,transcrib]'s ,note ,a c>at 77 is us$ to indicate sup]script$ *>act]s4 ,! orig9al text conta9$ an errata li/4 ,! corrections h be5 made to ?is text1 & ! li/ mov$ to ! end ( ! book = ref]5ce purposes only4 ,o!r notes may be f\nd at ! end ( ! book4 ,,ne$lework ,,z ,,art ,,by ,,lady ,m4 ,,al=d ,illu/ration ,london3 ,,sampson ,,l[1 ,,m>/on1 ,,se>le1 ,,& ,,riv+ton1 ,,cr[n ,,build+s1 #ahh1 ,,fleet ,,/reet4 #ahhf4 ,all rights res]v$4 ,,london3 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,gilb]t ,,& ,,riv+ton1 ,,limit$1 ,,/4 ,,john',s ,,squ>e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,telema*us ,,p5elope ,,d$icat$ ,,by ,,p]mission ,,to ,,! ,,que54 ,,to ,,! ,,que54 ,y\r ,maje/y's mo/ graci\s acceptance ( ! ,d$ication ( my book on ,ne$lework z ,art ca/s a light ^u ! subject t %[s its wor?9ess1 & my inability to d x ju/ice4 ,/ill1 ,i hope ,i may fill a gap 9 ! arti/ic lit]ature ( our day1 & ,i v5ture to lay my "w at y\r ,maje/y's feet ) loyal devotion4 ,,m>ian ,m4 ,,al=d4 ,,preface4 ,9 ! ,preface to ! ,h&book ( ,art ,ne$lework1 :i* ,i edit$ = ! ,royal ,s*ool at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 9 #ahhj1 ,i und]took to write a second "p1 to be devot$ to design1 col\r1 & ! common-s5se modes ( treat+ decorative art1 z appli$ especially to embroid]$ hang+s1 furniture1 dress1 & ! small] objects ( luxury4 ,circum/ances h1 s9ce !n1 oblig$ me to reconsid] ?is int5tion2 & ,i h f\nd x m practicable to ca/ ! in=mation :i* ,i h collect$ f ,ea/]n & ,we/]n s\rces into ! =m ( a sep>ate "w1 :i* 9 no way sup]s$es or int]f]es ) ! te*nical in/ruction suppos$ to be convey$ 9 a h&book4 ,i h f\nd s mu* amusem5t 9 le>n+ = myself ! hi/ory ( ! art ( embroid]y1 & 9 trac+ ! beg9n+s & ! int]*anges ( national s*ools1 t ,i _c b hope t ,i may excite a simil> int]e/ 9 "s ( my read]s1 & s induce ^? :o are capable1 to help & lift x to a high] place ?an x has be5 all[$ 9 ^! latt] days to occupy4 ,if ,i h giv5 too important a position to ! art ( ne$lework1 ,i w\ld obs]ve t :ile ,i h be5 writ+1 decorative embroid]y has come to ! front1 & is at ?is mom5t "o ( ! hobbies ( ! day2 & ,i w\ld po9t out t x conta9s 9 itself all ! necess>y elem5ts ( art2 x may ex]cise ! imag9ation & ! fancy2 x ne$s education 9 =m1 col\r1 & composition1 z well z ! craft ( a practis$ h&1 to express its language & p]fect its beauty4 ,i confess t :5 ,i und]took ?is task1 ,i did n anticipate ! "t ,i h _h to sp5d 9 collect+ & epitomiz+ ! _m notices to be f\nd 9 ,g]man1 ,fr5*1 & ,engli% au?ors1 on :at has be5 consid]$ among u1 at lea/ 9 ?is c5tury1 z m]ely a second>y art1 & !re=e1 z su*1 ( little importance4 ,cursory notices ( ne$lework are scatt]$ ?r\gh almo/ e book on art2 & "u ! head ( textiles x is usual to f9d embroid]y ackn[l$g$ z be+ wor?y ( notice1 ?\gh n to be nam$ 9 company ) sculpture1 ar*itecture1 or pa9t+1 h[ev] beautifully or ?\ghtfully its works may be c>ri$ out4 ,i h tri$ to %[ t x des]ves high] e/imation4 ,my fir/ int5tion 0 simply to consid] ,,/yle1 good or bad1 z x influ5ces our embroid]y ( to-day1 & to f9d "s rules by :i* to guide t ( ! future 9 its next phase4 ,b :5 we se>* into ! fluctuations ( /yle1 & _! causes1 we f9d !y h an hi/orical succession1 & t we mu/ beg9 at ! beg9n+ & trace !m ?r\gh ! life ( mank9d4 ,?is l$ me to attempt a sket* ( consecutive /yles1 _! ov]lap & v>iations4 ,i !n f\nd t ,,design1 ,,patt]ns1 ,,/it*es1 ,,mat]ials1 ea* require a sep>ate /udy4 ,,col\r1 z appli$ to dyes1 claims to be reg>d$ z diff]+ f pigm5ts on ! pa9t]'s palette4 ,,hang+s1 ,,dress1 & ,,ecclesia/ical ,,embroid]ies ea* require diff]5t rules1 & ! /udy ( ! be/ examples ( pa/ c5turies4 ,f9ally1 x seems natural to dwell on our own pr(ici5cy 9 decorative "w4 ,,engli% ,,embroid]y has always excell$2 &1 z we h aga9 return$ to ?is occupation1 x is wor? :ile to recollect :at we h done ( old4 ,9 writ+ *apt]s on ^! subjects1 ,i h f\nd x mo/ conv5i5t to sep>ate ! hi/orical & /hetic que/ions f ! te*nical rules1 & ! in/ruction :i* naturally belongs to a h&book1 ( :i* ! purpose %\ld be to tea* ! easie/ & mo/ or?odox mann] ( execut+ ! simple/1 & elaborat+ ! f9e/ works4 ,su* que/ions ought n to be ov]laid ) ar*ological inquiries1 or ) ! in=mation :i* only pr(its ! design]2 ?\gh ( c\rse x is be/ t ! k ( design %\ld be "p ( ! education ( ! craft4 ,p]haps ,i may be f\nd to h writt5 a book too %all[ = ! le>n$1 too deep = ! frivol\s1 too te*nical = ! g5]al public1 & too diffuse = ! speciali/ ( ! craft4#a ,i mu/ deprecate ^! criticisms by say+ t ,i h writt5 x = ! b5efit ( ^? :o "k no?+ ( ! art1 & are too mu* engag$ to seek in=mation "h & !re2 :o yet1 be+ wom51 h to select & to execute ornam5tal ne$lework2 or1 be+ arti/s1 are vex$ at ! incongruities & want ( int5tion 9 ! decorations 9 daily dome/ic use2 ,i h also s\ght to help ! design]1 t he or %e may "k some?+ ( ! hi/ory ( patt]ns & /it*es4 ,if my read]s %\ld be aw>e ( repetitions1 !y mu/ =give !m2 rememb]+ t ! same idea has to be look$ at sometimes f a diff]5t po9t ( view1 accord+ to ! use to :i* x is to be fitt$4 ,! same mat]ial may be employ$ = wall-hang+s & dress1 & !n ! pr9ciples :i* h be5 =mulat$ h to be v>i$4 ,i d n %r9k f repetitions if !y make my mean+ cle>1 rememb]+ ! ,duke ( ,well+ton's direction to 8 private secret>y1 ,nev] m9d repetitions2 & dot y\r i's4 ,portions ( ^! *apt]s h be5 already publi%$ 9 ,no4 #di ( ! ,n9ete5? ,c5tury1#b 9 #ahha2 & m 0 deliv]$ 9 ?ree unpubli%$ lectures ! same ye>4 ,i h ackn[l$g$ & not$ on ea* page my au?orities = ! facts ,i h quot$4 ,! illu/rations t are n orig9al1 h be5 copi$ f o!r works by p]mission ( au?ors & publi%]s4 ,to all ( ^! ,i wi% to express my obligations & ?anks1 especially to ,mr4 ,villi]s ,/u>t1 ,dr4 ,&]son1 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood1 & ,sir ,h4 ,lay>d1 = _! c\rtesy 9 all[+ me ! use ( _! plates4 ,to my old & valu$ fri5d1 ,mr4 ,newton1 ,i wi% to express my gratitude = 8 un/9t$ gifts ( "t & tr\ble1 be/[$ 9 criticiz+ & correct+ my book1 enc\rag+ me to give x to ! public1 & mak+ x m wor?y ( publication4 ,i h l>gely quot$ ,*>les ,blanc 7,ornam5t 9 ,dress1 ,engli% translation71 ,von ,bock 7,liturgis*e ,gewnd]71 ,dr4 ,rock 7,! ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs & ,introduction to ,textiles71 ,semp] 7,d] ,/il71 ,yates 7,textr9um ,antiquorum71 & ,yule 7,m>co ,polo71 besides _m o!rs4 ,b ^! au?orities (t5 diff]1 &1 aft] weigh+ _! argum5ts1 ,i h v5tur$ to select = my use ! facts & !ories :i* accord ) my own views4 ,facts are (t5 s int]dep5d5t & closely l9k$1 t x requires great c>e to di/+ui% :]e !y h be5 %ap$ or col\r$ 7h[ev] un9t5tionally7 to fit ea* o!r or ! writ]'s preconceiv$ ideas4 ,c]ta9 x is t facts are b useless heaps till ! ?read ( a !ory is f\nd on :i* to hang !m4 ,?is process1 l t ( /r++ pe>ls1 has to be (t5 repeat$1 till ea* occupies its "r place4 ,only ^? :o h adopt$ & *]i%$ a !ory c appreciate ! pa9 ( cutt+ ! ?read1 to displace :at appe>$ to be a pe>l1 b :i*1 f its false position z to date or place1 or its d\btful orig91 has prov$ only an empty manufactur$ glass bead ( error4 ,?is has happ5$ to me m ?an once2 & s9ce ,i read my lectures ,i h _h to *ange my op9ions 9 sev]al in/ances4 ,if1 !re=e1 any ( my read]s %\ld obs]ve su* *anges1 ,i hope !y w give me cr$it = try+ to convey n[ :at appe>s to me on ea* subject a correct impression4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,besides ! art1 ,i h s\ght to give some?+ ( ! ar*ology ( ne$lework4 ,n[ ! qualifications = be+ a tea*] on su* subjects are r>ely to be met )1 all comb9$4 ,mr4 ,newton1 9 8 ,essays on ,art & ,ar*ology1 p4 #cg1 says t ! ar*ologi/ %\ld comb9e ) ! /hetic culture ( ! arti/1 & ! tra9$ judgm5t ( ! hi/orian & ! philologi/1 t critical acum51 requir$ = classification & int]pretation2 nor %\ld t habitual suspicion :i* mu/ ev] att5d ! scrut9y & prec$e ! w>ranty ( evid5ce1 give too sceptical a bias to 8 m9d4 ,su* au?orities h be5 int]rogat$ on ea* "p ( my subject4 #b ,quot$ by p]mission ( ! ,editor4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,page ,,introduction4 #a ,,*apt] ,i4--,,/yle4 ,def9ition ( /yle--,developm5t ( /yle--,primitive-- ,ar*aic--,egyptian--,babylonian--,phnici an influ5ces on e>ly ,greek /yle--,decoration ( hang+s ( ! ,tab]nacle 9 ! wild]ness--,aryan ideas--,! ,code ( ,manu--,indian art--,celtic /yle--,greek art 9 dress & embroid]ies--,hom]'s descriptions ( embroid]ies--,pallas ,a!ne--,%ield ( ,a*illes--,roman art--,byzant9e art--,art ( ,c5tral ,asia--,its arrival 9 ,europe--,art ( ,*9a1 ,japan1 & ,java--,*ri/ian art--,sc&9avian art--,! ,d>k ,ages--,sicilian textile art--,r5aissance--,arabesque-- ,grotesque--,spani% ,plt]esque--,/yle ( ,que5 ,anne & ! ,*ipp5dales--,l\is ,,xv4 /yle--,classical revival--,"y ,engl&'s /yle--,n9ete5? c5tury /yle #ad ,,*apt] ,,ii4--,,design4 ,arti/ & artisan--,prehi/oric design--,naturali/ic design--,egyptian immutability--,sl[ evolution ( design--,greek p]fection--,necessity ( foll[+ rules--,m4 ,blanc's laws ( ornam5tation--,laws ( composition-- ,repetition--,alt]nation--,symmetry--,pr ogression--,confusion-- ,designs = hang+s & dress mat]ials--,floral design--,design = c>pets--,! conv5tional--,fir/ pr9ciples #ed ,,*apt] ,,iii4--,,patt]ns4 ,ance/ry ( patt]ns--,classification--,_! hi/orical value--,primitive patt]ns--,! wave--,t>tan--,prehi/oric ,african patt]ns--,! naturali/ic--,fl[]s--,%ells--,indian =ms ( naturali/ic patt]ns--,egyptian--,! lotus-- ,sunfl[]--,celtic ,zoomorphic patt]ns--,! human figure on ,greek textiles--,animal =ms 9 ,ori5tal patt]ns--,symbolical & conv5tional patt]ns--,! wave patt]ns--,! palm leaf-- ,! cone--,go?ic--,arab--,moresque--,! ,sacr$ ,hom--,egg & tongue--,! cross--,swa/ika--,fylfote--,gammadion--, ! cr5elat$ patt]n--,! ,n9evite daisy--,emblematic patt]ns--,be/i>ia--,volucr>ia--,lapid>ia --,byzant9e patt]ns--,go?ic--,r5aissance--,! cl\d patt]n--,! fundata--,italian--,fr5* patt]ns--,radiat$ patt]ns--,! %ell--,patt]ns by repetition--,balcony patt]n--,*9ese wick]-"w--,survival ( a patt]n--,opus ,alex&r9um--,quilt+ patt]ns #hb ,,*apt] ,,iv4--,,mat]ials4 ,raw mat]ials--,revelations ( ! microscope--,hemp--,jute-- ,honduras grass--,sp>tum--,p9na silk--,hair--,lea!r-- ,fea!rs--,asbe/os--,coral--,pe>ls--,bead s--,wool--,classical notices ( wool--,c>eful improvem5t ( wool by ! anci5ts--,tanaquil--,hom]ic wooll5 c>pets--,crimson textile fragm5ts--,sc&9avian wooll5 g>m5ts--,qualities ( wool--,engli% wool--,goats' hair--,flax--,lake cities-- ,byssus--,f9e l95 ( ,egypt--,! ,atrebates--,embroid]y on l95--,cotton--,indian orig9--,c>basa--,buckram--,cotton fabrics--,gold--,silv]--,gold brocades--,jewi%--,indian-- ,*9ese--,dress ( ,d>ius--,attalus--,attalic textiles-- ,agripp9a's gold5 g>m5ts--,/4 ,cecilia's mantle--,roman tombs--,gold wire--,anglo-,saxon tomb--,*ild]ic's tomb--,proba's gold ?read--,gold5 wrapp+s f tombs ( ,h5ry ,i4 & ,h5ry ,,iii4--,gold embroid]ies & jewell]s' "w ( ,middle ,ages--,spangles--,enamels--,purl--,mod] n s*ools ( gold embroid]y--,silk--,pamphile ( ,cos--,e>ly specim5s ( silk /uffs--,*9ese silks--,! ,s]es--,mela--,s5eca--,m4 ,t]ri5 de la ,c\p]ie--,empress ,si-l+-*i--,pr9cess ( ,khotan--,euripides--,lucan--,pl9y--,sil k 9 ,rome--lius ,lampridius--,flavius ,vopiscus--,tailor's bill--,ju/9ian's codex--,imp]ial monopoly--,paul ! ,sil5ti>y--,b$e--,k+ ,john's app>ition--,greek & ,sicilian manufactories ( silk--,di/9ctive m>ks ( diff]5t p]iods--,lyons--,spa9-- ,italy--,flemi% t[ns--,m>co ,polo--,sat9--,wel% poem1 ,lady ( ! ,f\nta9--,*auc]--,velvet--,transf]5ce ( "w to new mat]ials #aah ,,*apt] ,v4--,,col\r4 ,h>mony & dissonance--,names ( t9ts--,au?orities = !ories--,art ( col\r+--,expression ( col\r+-- ,purple--,r$--,crimson--,blue--,yell[--, pl9y--,r5\f--,*9ese col\rs--,indian dyes--,p]sian col\rs--,dyes ( ! ,gauls--,romans--,scot*--,scales ( col\r--,,mm4 ,*>ton & ,*evreul on tones ( col\r--,gas col\rs #age ,,*apt] ,,vi4--,,/it*es4 ,/it*es--,"p ,i43 ,! ne$le--,gamm] ,gurton's ne$le--,art ( ne$lework--,li/s ( /it*es--,"p ,,ii43 ,pla9 "w-- ,! seam--,mrs4 ,floy]--,:ite embroid]y--,nuns' "w-- ,greek--,g]man--,spani%--,italian :ite "w--,semp]'s rules = :ite "w--,"p ,,iii43 ,opus ,phrygium--,gold embroid]ies--,"p ,,iv43 ,opus pulv9>ium--,cu%ion /it*es-- ,mosaic /it*es--,traditional decorations f ,*aldea & ,assyria--,g]man & ,italian patt]n-books--,"p ,v43 ,opus plum>ium--,! ,plum>ii--,fea!r-"w ( ,india--,isl&s ( ! ,pacific--,african "w--,mexican & ,p]uvian--,cluny tripty*--,mitre ( ,/4 ,*>les ,borromeo--,essay by ,d5is--,*9ese & ,japanese fea!r-/it*es--,"p ,,vi43 ,opus consutum or cut "w--,pat*work--,egyptian & ,greek examples--,iri% cut "w--,*auc]--,francis ,i4's hang+s at ,cluny--,"l ,beau*amp's curta9s--,spani% examples-- ,rem>ks--,art ( application--,"p ,,vii43 ,lace--,opus filatorium--,mrs4 ,pallis]--,m4 ,blanc--,guipure--,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son--,nett$ lace--,hom]--,solomon's ,temple--,bobb9 laces--,yak--,col\r$ laces--,v5etian sumptu>y laws--,gold5 laces--,po9t d',al5on--,mr4 ,a4 ,cole's lectures--,m4 ,urbani de ,ghelt( on ,v5ice laces--,lace /it*es--,revival ( lace s*ool at ,burano--,engli% laces--,"p ,,viii43 ,tape/ry--,opus pect9eum--,modes ( weav+ tape/ry--,its great antiquity-- ,egyptian looms--,alb]t ,ca/el on tape/ries--,hom]ic picture-weav+--,ara*ne--,a p>aphrase by ,"l ,h\ghton-- ,nom5ticum--,sidonius ,apoll9>is--,s>ac5ic weav+--,arras-- ,brussels--,italian tape/ries f ,flor5ce1 ,milan1 & ,mantua--,fr5* tape/ries--,cluny ,museum collection--,gobel9s-- ,beauvais--,engli% tape/ry--,comn5us--,mat!w ,p>is--,e>ly trade ) ,arras--,cov5try tape/ries--,*auc]--,tape/ry ( v]d--,hatfield tape/ries--,armada tape/ries--,sir ,f4 ,crane--,mortlake manufactory--,francis ,cleyne--,raphael c>toons--,p]cy tape/ry f ,lambe? #aid ,,*apt] ,,vii4--,,hang+s4 ,classical hang+s--,babylonian & ,p]sian--,semp]'s !ory--,sanctu>y 9 ! wild]ness--,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome--,abulf$a--,akb>'s t5t--,nadir ,%ah's t5t--,t5t ( ,khan ( ,p]sia--,t5ts ( ,alex&] ! ,great at ,alex&ria--,roman hang+s--,fun]al pyres--,kosroes' t5t--,semp]'s rules = hang+ decorations--,anci5t c>pets--,engli% & ,fr5* hang+s--,rules = designs ( hang+s #bfj ,,*apt] ,,viii4--,,furniture4 ,p5elope's c\*--,*aldean furni%$ h\se--,! b$--,e>l ( ,leice/]'s inv5tories--,/ate ap>tm5t ( ,aless&ri ,palace--,indian embroid]ies = furniture--,! s(a & *air--,! foot/ool--,furniture /it*es--,! table cov]--,! scre5--,book cov]s--,morris on furniture #bhj ,,*apt] ,,ix4--,,dress4 ,art ( dress--,anci5t spl5d\r--,p]sian1 ,greek1 & ,roman--,indian--,hom]ic--,e>ly ,*ri/ian--,*>lemagne's mantle & robe--,objects ( dress--,embroid]$ g>m5ts #bid ,,*apt] ,x4--,,ecclesia/ical ,,embroid]y4 ,*ri/ian art--,d>k ages--,greek & ,roman ecclesia/ical dress--,nor!rn influ5ce--,cont9uity ( ecclesia/ical art--,au?orities--,anglo-,saxon or?odox col\rs--,veils ( ! ,temple--,hang+s 9 ,pagan temples & ,*ri/ian *ur*es--,russian use ( veils--,art 9 ! e>ly ,*ur*-- ,r>e examples--,de/ruction by ! iconocla/s--,e>ly embroid]]s--,empress ,hel5a--,b]?a1 "m ( ,*>lemagne--,8 dalmatic--,pluvial ( ,/4 ,silve/]--,pluvial ( museum at ,bologna--,d>oca cope--,cope ( ,boniface ,,viii4-- ,/yle ( ! twelf? c5tury--,mantle ( ,/4 ,/eph5 ( ,hung>y--,kunigunda's "w = ,h5ry ,,ii4--,! ,romanesque-- ,movem5t p]fect+ ,go?ic art1 ?irte5? c5tury--,opus ,anglicanum--,syon cope--,embroid]y on ! /amp--,pictures 9 flat /it*es--,flemi% "w--,r5aissance--,"w ( "s royal ladies--,fr5*--,spani%--,sicilian & ,neapolitan--,g]man "w--,sacr$ symbolism--,melito's ,! ,key--,my/ical col\rs--,prehi/oric cross--,_m =ms ( ! cross--,! ros--,! *rysoclavus--,mod]n decoration--,pr9ciples & motives = *ur* embroid]ies--,! alt>-clo?--,! r]$os--,! pulpit & read+-desk--,! anci5t ,pas*al--,! bann] ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t--,! fr+e--,lay h]aldry ( ! ,*ur*--,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum #cjc ,,*apt] ,,xi4--,,engli% ,,embroid]y4 ,fir/ glimpse ( art 9 ,engl&--,dye+ & weav+ 9 ,brita9 9 e>ly times--,cs>'s invasion--,roman civilization--,anglo-,saxon times & art--,adhelme's poem--,icel&ic ,sagas--,saga or /ory ( ,?orgunna--,engli% "w 9 ! eigh? c5tury--,! ,b5$ict9es--,durham embroid]ies--,aelfl$--,/4 ,dun/an--,que5 ,emma's "w--,william ( ,poit\--,! ,bayeux tape/ry--,abbess ( ,m>kgate--,gifts to ,pope ,adrian ,,iv4--,robes ( ,?omas ,becket at ,s5s--,innoc5t ,,iii4--,engli% pre-em95ce 9 ne$lework f ! ,conque/ to ! ,re=mation--,john ,g>l& on h&-looms--,blode-b5des & lacs d'am\r--,opus ,anglicanum--,engli% peculi>ities 9 ecclesia/ical design--,p5alties aga9/ luxury 9 dress--,protection ! bane ( art--,dun/able pall--,/oneyhur/ cope--,de/ruction ( f9e works at ! ,re=mation--,mu* on ! ,cont95t1 mu* collect$ 9 our old ,ca?olic h\ses--,field ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold--,m>y ,tudor's ,spani% /it*es--,que5 ,elizabe?'s embroid]ies--,in/itution ( ,embroid]]s' ,company--,ea/ ,india ,company--,ori5tal ta/e disc\rag$ on ,protectioni/ gr\nds--,decay ( ! art 9 ,engl&--,/yle ( ,james ,i4--,dut* /yle--,cu%ion /it*es--,miss ,l9wood-- ,miss ,moritt--,mrs4 ,delany--,mrs4 ,pawsey--,po/script--,revival ( ! art ( ne$lework--,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework #cef ,,app5dix ,i4 ,*>les ,t4 ,newton on ,votive ,dresses #djj ,,ii4 ,! ,moritzburg ,fea!r ,hang+s #dja ,,iii4 ,! ,/ory ( ,ara*ne1 translat$ by ,e>l ,c[p] #djb ,,iv4 ,*>lemagne's ,dalmatic1 by ,"l ,l9dsay #dje ,v4 ,notices ( v>i\s ,m$ival ,embroid]ies by ! ,hon4 & ,rev4 ,w4 ,ignatius ,clif=d #djg ,,vi4 ,syon ,cope1 ,rock's ,introduction1 ,textile ,fabrics #djh ,,vii4 ,assyrian ,fr+es #dab ,,viii4 ,hro?g>'s ,h\se ,furniture3 ,poem ( ,be[ulf #dab ,,ix4 ,?orgunna1 by ,sir ,g4 ,das5t #dac ,x4 ,p$igree ( ,aels) #dad ,,xi4 ,/atutes at ,l>ge #dad ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations4 ,,cuts4 ,fig4,page4 --------- #a #bj ,egyptian corselet4 ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 p4 #ccb4 #b #be ,tab]nacle ( ,balawat4 ,temp4 ,%almanes]4 ,briti% ,museum4 #c #cj ,zoomorphic ,celtic patt]n4 #d #cb ,pallas ,a!ne attir$ 9 ! sacr$ peplos4 ,pana!naic vase1 ,briti% ,museum4 #e #fb ,wave patt]n4 #f #fc ,key patt]n4 #g #fc ,metopes & triglyphs4 #h #gc ,p]sian c>pet4 ,egyptian symbolic patt]ns4 #i #ia ,go?ic sunfl[]4 ,r4 ,s4 ,a4 ,n4 #aj #ih ,wave4 #aa #ajd ,egyptian ally & enemy4 ,temp4 ,rameses ,,ii4 ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 iii4 p4 #cfd4 #ab #aje ,assyrian cr5elat$ patt]n4 #ac #ajg ,go?ic type ( trees1 ,bayeux tape/ry4 #ad #aaa ,radiat$ patt]n4 #ae #aaa ,radiat$ sunfl[]4 #af #aab ,%ell patt]n4 #ag #aab ,balcony patt]n4 #ah #aae ,v>i$ adju/m5ts ( squ>e & circle4 #ai #adf ,spangles4 #bj #aie ,ne$les4 #ba #bjh ,fea!r patt]ns4 ,egyptian4 #bb #baf ,application4 ,egyptian4 ,aub]ville's ,tissus4 #bc #bag ,embroid]$ bord] on mantle4 ,crimea4 ,compte ,r5du4 #bd #bha ,babylonian or ,*aldean h\se & furniture4 #be #caa ,italian fifte5?-c5tury patt]n4 ,celtic type4 #bf #cgg ,b>b$ quatrefoil4 #bg #chj ,holbe9 patt]n4 ,sampl]4 #bh #chh ,arms ( ,embroid]]s' ,guild2 giv5 by ,que5 ,elizabe?4 #bi #cic ,portion ( ,james ,,ii4's coronation dress2 f an old pr9t4 ,,plates4 ,plate,page4 ,ref4 --------------- ,,title-,,page4 ,p5elope at h] loom1 reproa*$ by h] son ,telema*us4 ,f vase f\nd at ,*iusi1 9 ,etruria4 ,monum4 d4 ,in/4 ,ar*4 ,rom4 ix4 ,pl4 #db4 #a #bb #ic ,,assurbanipal 7,s>danapalus74 ,sculptures f ,n9eveh4 ,briti% ,museum4 #b #bb #ic ,portion ( royal ,babylonian mantle4 ,f ,lay>d's ,monum5ts1 ,s]ies i4 pl4 #i4 #c #bi ,,/4 ,,john4 ,f ,k+ ,alfr$'s ,celtic ,book ( ! ,gospels4 ,lambe? ,palace ,libr>y4 #d #cj ,a ,,page ( ! ,book ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 or ,book ( ,l9disf>ne4 #e #cc ,,silv] ,,b[l f ,pale/r9a4 ,f ,cl]mont ,ganneau's ,j\rnal ,asiatique1 ,syro-,egypti5-,phnici54 #f #dj #ic ,,empress ,,!odora4 ,rav5na ,mosaic4 #g #db ,,italian ,,embroid]y1 fifte5? c5tury4 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 #h #dc ,,italian & ,,spani% orphrey1 sixte5? c5tury4 #i #de ,,pl,,t]esque ,,design4 ,spani% cov]let1 gre5 velvet & gold1 sixte5? c5tury4 ,goa "w4 #aj #hg ,,wave ,,patt]n4 #a1 #d1 #i1 #ab1 #ac4 ,greek wave patt]n4 #b4 ,key or ,m&] ,greek wave4 #c4 ,greek brok5 wave4 #e1 #f1 #g4 ,egyptian smoo? & rippl+ wave patt]n4 #h4 ,m$ival wave4 #aj1 #aa1 #ad4 ,babylonian & ,*aldean4 #ae4 ,p]sian or ,greek1 f glass b[l1 ,briti% ,museum4 #af4 ,engli% wave 7or cl\d74 ,durham embroid]ies1 t5? c5tury4 #aa #hh ,,simple ,,patt]ns4 #a4 ,p]sian4 #b4 ,lotus bord]1 ,egyptian4 #ab #ij ,,lotus ,,bord]s4 #a4 ,indian4 #b1 #c4 ,egyptian4 #d1 #e1 ,greek4 #f4 ,indian4 #ac #ie #ajb ,,indian ,,lotus4 #a4 ,) ,assyrian daisy4 #b4 ,lotus4 #c4 ,! egg & tongue1 or ,vitruvian scroll f ,vignola4 ,regole di ,ord9e di ,ar*itettura4 #ad #ia ,,sunfl[] ,,patt]n4 ,r4 ,s4 ,a4 ,n4 ,n9ete5? c5tury4 #ae #ib ,,portion ,,( ,a ,,page ( ! ,book ( ,kells4 ,dubl9 ,univ]sity ,libr>y4 #af #ic #aad ,,demet]4 ,greek fictile vase4 ,briti% ,museum4 #ag #ic #bag #a4 ,,greek ,,embroid]y1 #cjj ,b4,c4 ,f tomb ( ! ,sev5 ,bro!rs1 ,crimea4 #b4 ,,egyptian pa9t$ or embroid]$ l954 ,! cone1 bead1 daisy1 wave4 ,lotus-"u-wat] patt]ns are repres5t$ on ?is fragm5t4 #ah #ic ,,egyptian ,tape/ry weav+ f9i%$ ) ! ne$le4 ,briti% ,museum4 #ai #ig #aad ,,egyptian key patt]ns4 ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 p4 #abe4 #bj #ii #aja ,,trees ,,( ,,life4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,assyrian4 #d4 ,sicilian silk4 #e4 ,m$ival4 ,birdwood's ,indian ,arts4 #ba #aja ,,trees ,,( ,,life4 #a4 ,sculpture ov] gate ( ,myc54 #b4 ,sicilian silks2 ,p]sian type4 #bb #aja ,,lotus ,,m]g$ ,,into ,,tree ,,( ,,life4 #a4 ,split ,*9ese ,lotus4 #b4 ,split ,p]sian ,lotus1 f a frieze by ,b5ozzo ,gozzoli4 ,ric>di ,palace1 ,flor5ce4 #c4 ,petal ( fl[]4 ,greek glass b[l f tomb 9 ,s\!rn ,italy4 #bc #aja ,,trees ,,( ,,life4 ,sicilian silks4 ,aub]ville4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #aj4 ,p]sian type4 #f1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aa4 ,indian type4 #bd #aja ,,tree ,,( ,,life trans=m$ into v9e4 ,mod]n patt]n ( "w f ! ,pr9cipalities4 #be #ajc ,,typical ,,crosses4 #a4 ,swa/ika fire-/ick cross4 #b4 ,f ,greek vase1 ,briti% ,museum1 #gfe ,b4,c4 #c4 ,sect>ial m>k ( ,sakti race4 ,india4 #d4 ,sect>ial m>k ( ,buddhi/s & ,ja9is4 #e4 ,on e>ly ,rhodian pott]y4 #f4 ,egyptian prehi/oric cross4 #g4 ,tau cross4 #h4 ,m>k ( l&1 ,egyptian & ,n9evite4 #i4 ,m>k ( l&1 ,egyptian & ,n9evite4 #aj4 ,clavus1 nail or button1 or sun-cross4 #aa1 #ab1 #ac4 ,sc&9avian sun & moon crosses4 #ad1 #ae1 #af4 ,celtic4 #ag4 ,*rysoclavus4 #ah1 #ai4 ,/aurac9 patt]ns4 #bj4 ,norwegian4 #ba4 ,runic4 #bb4 ,cross 9 ,temple ( ! ,sun1 ,pal5que4 #bc4 ,scot* ,celtic cross4 #bd4 ,cross at ,iona4 #be1 #bf4 ,runic & ,sc&9avian crosses4 #bg4 ,cross diap]$ on ,*>lemagne's dalmatic4 #bh4 ,f mantle ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 ,emp]or ( ,g]many4 #bf #ajc ,,prehi/oric ,,crosses4 #a4 ,greek4 ,pallas1 ) plait$ tunic work$ ) ,swa/ika4 #b4 ,greek4 ,ajax play+ at dice ) ,a*illes4 ,cloak embroid]$ ) ,swa/ika & o!r prehi/oric patt]ns4 ,fictile vase1 ,vatican ,museum4 #bg #aje ,,assyrian ,,c>pet c>v$ 9 /one1 ,briti% ,museum4 #bh #ajg ,,go?ic4 #a4 ,dress patt]ns f old ,,ms4 #b1 #c4 ,old ,engli% tiles4 #bi #aji ,,cl\d ,,patt]ns4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #g4 ,japanese4 #e1 #h1 #i4 ,m$ival4 #d4 ,*9ese4 #f4 ,badge ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 #cj #aji ,,indo-,,*9ese ,,cov]let4 ,hatfield4 ,suppos$ to h belong$ to ,oliv] ,cromwell4 #ca #aji ,,fundata ,,patt]ns4 #a4 ,on ,phnician silv] b[l4 7,l',imag]ie ,phnici5ne47 #b1 #c4 ,f tomb at ,essi\t1 ,egypt4 ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 ii4 p4 #abe4 #afjj ,b4,c4 #cb #abd ,,"p ,,( ,,bord] ( silk1 gold1 & pe>ls4 ,work$ by ,blan*e1 wife ( ,*>les ,,iv4 ( ,bohemia4 ,bock's ,lit4 ,gew4 ii4 p4 #bdf4 #cc #adg ,,embroid]$ ,,w9d[ ,,hang+ f portrait ( ,mahomet ,,ii41 by ,g5til ,bell9i2 belong+ to ,sir ,h5ry ,lay>d4 #cd #aec #aaj ,,classical ,,silks4 #a4 ,greek4 #b4 ,roman4 #ce #afc ,,durham ,,relics4 ,p]sian type ( silk weav+4 #cf #afd ,,durham ,,relics4 ,norman & ,p]sian types mix$4 #cg #afd ,,durham ,,relics4 ,grco-,egyptian type4 #ch #afd ,,egyptian ,,boat ) embroid]$ & fr+$ sails1 & float+ sc>ves4 ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 iii4 p4 #baa4 #ci #bjj ,,:ite ,,embroid]y f sculptur$ tomb ( a knight1 fifte5? c5tury4 ,ara ,cli1 ,rome4 #dj #bja ,,processional ,,cloak1 ,spani% "w1 temp4 ,h5ry ,,viii41 belong+ to ,"l ,arundel ( ,w>d\r4 #da #bjd ,,opus ,,pulv9>ium4 ,c\nt$ /it*es4 #a4 ,italian4 #b4 ,sc&9avian4 #c4 ,anci5t ,egyptian4 ,tur9 ,museum4 #db #bjf ,,italian ,,mosaic ,,/it* "w1 sixte5? c5tury4 ,al=d ,h\se4 #dc #bad ,,japanese ,,opus ,,plum>ium4 ,:ite silk4 #dd #baf #be ,,opus ,,consutum4 ,fun]al t5t ( an ,egyptian que54 #de #bai #abc ,,opus ,,consutum4 ,inlaid & onlaid4 ,italian1 sev5te5? c5tury4 #df #bce ,,egyptian ,,gobel9s f9i%$ ) ! ne$le4 #dg #bcf ,,rheims ,,ca!dral ,,tape/ry4 ,! ,virg9 weav+ & embroid]+ on frame a basse-lisse4 #dh #bdc ,,t5t ,,( ,,*>les ,,! ,,bold1 tak5 at ,gr&son1 n[ 9 museum at ,b]ne4 ,! badge is t ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 #di #beb ,,engli% ,,tape/ry belong+ to ,"l ,salisbury1 at ,hatfield ,h\se1 temp4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 #ej #bid ,,italian ,,knight ( fifte5? c5tury arm$ = conque/4 ,g5tile da ,fabriano4 ,academia1 ,flor5ce4 #ea #cji ,,/4 ,,m>k4 ,anglo-,saxon ,book ( ! ,gospels4 ,york ,m9/] ,libr>y4 #eb #cab ,,classical ,,patt]n adapt$ into ,*ri/ian art4 #ec #cah ,,*>lemagne',s ,,dalmatic4 ,vatican ,treasury4 #ed #cah ,,*>lemagne',s ,,dalmatic4 ,vatican ,treasury4 #ee #cah ,,portion ,,( ,,*>lemagne',s ,,dalmatic4 ,half-size4 #ef #cai ,,/4 ,,silve/]',s ,,pluvial4 ,treasury ( ,/4 ,john ,lat]an1 ,rome4 ,opus ,anglicanum1 ?irte5? c5tury4 #eg #cai ,,portion ,,( ,,/4 ,,silve/]',s ,,pluvial1 %[+ its condition4 #eh #cai ,,bologna ,,cope4 ,museo del ,municipio4 ,opus ,anglicanum4 #ei #cai ,,d>oca ,,cope4 ,ar*ological ,museum at ,madrid4 ,opus ,anglicanum4 #fj #cai ,,boniface ,,viii4',s ,,cope f ,anagni1 8 native place2 n[ 9 ,vatican ,treasury2 twelf? c5tury4 #fa #cai ,,alt> ,,frontal at ,anagni1 ,italy4 ,italian "w1 f\rte5? c5tury4 #fb #cbj ,,worce/] ,,relics ( ! t5? c5tury4 #a4 ,f tomb ( ,walt] de ,cantilupe4 #b4 ,f ,aix1 9 ,switz]l&4 ,same type4 #fc #cbj #a4 ,,mitre ,,( ,,?omas ,,becket4 #b4 ,! cross ) twelve leaves1 = ! heal+ ( ! nations4 ,coronation ve/m5ts at ,rheims4 #fd #cba ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,"w1 purple & gold1 f tomb ( ,william de ,blois1 ,worce/]4 ,he di$ ,bi%op 9 #abcf4 #fe #cba ,a ,,portion ,,( ,,/4 ,,/eph5 ,,( ,,hung>y',s ,,mantle1 work$ by 8 ,que5 ,gisela4 ,f ,bock's ,kle9odi54 #ff #cbb ,,portion ,,( ,,mantle ,,( ,,h5ry ,,ii41 work$ by 8 ,empress ,kunigunda4 ,f ,bock's ,kle9odi54 #fg #cbe ,,! ,,syon ,,cope4 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 #fh #cbi ,,italian ,,embroid]ies design$ by ,pollaiolo2 work$ by ,paolo da ,v]ona4 ,sixte5? c5tury4 #fi #ccj ,,spani% ,,alt> ,,frontal4 ,,! ,,arms ,,( ,,ca/ile embroid]$ 9 gold ) pe>ls4 ,a%ridge4 ,plt]esque /yle1 sev5te5? c5tury4 #gj #ccg #aac ,,consul> ,,ivories4 ,two dipty*s4 #a4 ,zuri*1 ,wass]-,kir*e4 ,inscrib$ to ,consul ,areob9dus1 ,a4,d4 #dcd4 #b4 ,at ,halb]/adt4 ,no date4 ,f ,bock's ,lit4 ,gew4 #ga #cfc ,,aelfl$',s ,,orphrey1 sign$ by h]4 ,durham ,ca!dral ,libr>y4 #gb #cfc ,,/4 ,,gregory ,,& ,,/4 ,,john 7,,prophet71 f ,aelfl$'s orphrey4 ,durham4 ,engli% "w1 t5? c5tury4 #gc #cfe ,,/4 ,,dun/an 9 adoration1 drawn by himself4 ,bodleian ,libr>y1 ,ox=d4 ,t5? c5tury4 #gd #cfi ,,small ,,p>sem ,,patt]ns f ,/rutt's ,royal & ,ecclesia/ical ,antiquities ( ! ,engli% f #aajj to #aecj4 #ge #cfi ,,engli% ,,patt]ns ( embroid]y4 #a4 ,panel ( a scre5 9 ,hornby ,*ur*1 ,york%ire4 #b4 ,dress on a pa9t$ w9d[ 9 ,/4 ,mi*ael's ,*ur*1 ,york4 #c4 ,wov5 mat]ial ( ! ,t[neley ,copes4 #gf #cge ,,opus ,,anglicanum1 twelf? c5tury4 ,briti% ,museum4 #gg #cgf ,,typical ,,engli% ,,ornam5ts = ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 twelf? c5tury4 #gh #cgg ,,dun/able ,,pall4 ,temp4 ,h5ry ,,vii4 #gi #cgh ,,v9tn]s' ,,company ,,pall4 ,h5ry ,,vii4 #hj #cgh ,,h5ry ,,vii4',s ,,cope1 f ,/oneyhur/2 design$ by ,torrigiano1 ! sculptor ( 8 tomb4 #ha #chb ,,spani% ,,"w4 ,temp4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 #hb #chc ,,engli% ,,spani% ,,"w4 ,temp4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 #hc #chi ,,cu%ion ,,cov]1 ,hatfield ,h\se4 ,temp4 ,elizabe?4 #hd #cij ,,ori5tal ,,tree ,,& ,,bea/ ,,patt]n4 ,cockayne-,hatley4 ,temp4 ,james ,i4 #he #cia ,,engli% ,,crewel ,,"w4 ,indian design4 ,temp4 ,james ,i4 ,,ne$lework ,,z ,,art4 ,,introduction4 ,! book ( ! ,sci5ce ( ,art has yet to be writt54 ,art has be5 call$ ! ,fl[] ( ,life1 & also ! ,consol]2--adorn+ ! exi/5ce ( ! /rong & bright1--%elt]+ & com=t+ ! sad & solit>y ones ( ! e>?4 ,b1 r1 x resembles a wide-spread+ tree1 cov]$ ) v>i$ blossoms--be>+ _m fruits4 ,to po9t out ! hi/ory & ! possibilities 9 ! future ( ea* bran* t %ades1 refre%es1 & gives :olesome fruit to ! _w1 w\ld be a task wor?y ( a ma/]-h& & a p5 ( gold4 ,b less ambiti\s lab\r]s 9 ! field ( inve/igation :i* is only z yet p>tly cultivat$1 may ea* assi/1 by c>efully collect+ a little heap ( asc]ta9$ facts2 & x is1 inde$1 ! duty ( ea* z he passes to add 8 pebble to ! sl[ly accumulat+ cairn ( record$ human k4 ,"s "o has said1 ,build y\r h\se ( little bricks ( facts1 & y w soon f9d x inhabit$ by a body ( tru?2 & t tru? w ally itself ) o!r h\ses ( facts1 & 9 "t a well-ord]$1 cosmical city w arise4 ,my pebble is n yet poli%$4 ,x is nei!r a diamond nor a ruby1 b ,i ?9k !re are a few /reaks ( gold5 light 9 x1 :i* ,i may v5ture to add to ! daily accumulat+ treasure 9 ! h\se ( human arti/ic k4 ,my object 9 writ+ ?is volume is to fill up an empty space 9 ! ,engli% libr>y ( art4 ,! great expon5ts ( poetic ?\ght--v]se1 sculpture1 pa9t+1 & ar*itecture--h long s9ce be5 well int]pret$ & appreciat$4 ,m5 & wom5 h writt5 mu* & well on ^! l>ge subjects1 & we may hope = m ere long4 ,! second>y or small] arts h be5 hi!rto neglect$ by u1--ei!r treat$ m]ely z crafts1 to :i* arti/ic education may give help1 or z ! natural or inf]ior outcome ( ! primal arts1 hav+ no claim to ! possession ( special laws & hi/ory4 ,& yet1 :5 ,moses wrote & ,hom] sang1 ne$lework 0 no new ?+4 ,x 0 already consecrat$ by leg5d>y & tradition>y cu/om to ! highe/ uses4 ,! gods !mselves 7 hon\r$ by its s]vice1 & x prec$$ writt5 hi/ory 9 record+ h]oic de$s & national triumphs4 ,x may be said t ivory c>v+ is sculpture1 & illum9at$ manuscripts & col\r$ glass w9d[s are pa9t+4 ,b = metal "w1 :e!r 9 iron or gold1 a place mu/ be kept ap>t2 & ! same privileges are due to embroid]y & to metallurgy4 ,all arts mu/ ( necessity h _! own laws & rules1 :i* ensure _! beauty ( execution & _! special =ms ( design2 ^! two la/1 f ! nature ( _! mat]ials1 & ! modes ( work+ !m1 mu/ be /udi$ indep5d5tly ( any connection ) pa9t+1 ar*itecture1 or sculpture4 ,yet1 if ! unity ( nature is an accept$ fact1#c !n ! acceptance ( ! unity ( art mu/ foll[4 ,art mu/ be consid]$ z ! selection ( natural ph5om5a by individual m9ds capable ( assimilat+ & reproduc+ !m 9 c]ta9 =ms & ) c]ta9 mat]ials adapt$ to ! national ta/e1 ne$s1 & p[] ( appreciation4 ,if man _c orig9ate mat]ials1 he c inv5t comb9ations2--& ?is is ,art4 ,if proportion1 col\r1 & s\nd alike dep5d on c]ta9 ma!matical measurem5ts1 & on rhy?mical vibrations1 !re mu/ be a real & tangible relation betwe5 ^! elem5ts1 ?\gh appli$ to obta9 diff]5t results4 ,9 music1 z 9 all art1 h>mony is1 or ought to be1 a fir/ consid]ation4 ,we h se5 by exp]im5t h[ a note ( our scale c by t\* =m geometrical figures ) s& on a %eet ( glass1--"h =m obeys ! =ce ( h>mony4 ,b :at is h>mony8 ,by analogy we may argue f ! art ( music4 ,we :o believe t we h acquir$ ! k ( music z a sci5ce1 beyond all prec$+ k ( ! subject1 h 9 ,europe be5 able to enjoy only our own musical scales2 :]eas ?r\gh\t ! ,ea/1 ^? accept$ by ! human e> are v v>i\s1 & appe> to dep>t f :at to our s5ses is h>mony4 ,^? ,ori5tal musics h ei!r be5 adapt$ to ! ,ori5tal e>1 or ! e> has be5 adapt$ to appreciate ! =ms & laws ( h>mony ) :i* x came 9 contact4 ,! same que/ions occur to u :ile exam9+ into ! diff]5t =ms ( decorative art2 & we are con/antly rem9d$ t ! laws :i* %\ld gov]n !m1 are p]haps1 inf9itely l>g] & wid] ?an we ) our limit$ human capacities & exp]i5ce1 h hi!rto be5 able to appreciate4 ,ars longa--vita brevis has be5 s (t5 said1 t f a prov]b x has become a truism2 b x mu/ cont9ue to be ! refra9 ( ^? :o write ^u art4 ,! subject is s long1 & its ramifications are s intricate1 t x is difficult to include !m all "u "o category4 ,my fur!/ aim "h is to trace back ! art ( ne$lework to its beg9n+1 )\t turn+ my eyes to ! "r or ! left1 ?\gh ,i _c help feel+ myself drawn aside almo/ irresi/ibly by casual glimpses ( ar*itecture1 sculpture1 & pa9t+1 :i* "h & !re t\* v ne>ly ! hi/ory ( ne$lework4 ,except :]e !y visibly influ5ce ea* o!r1 ,i avoid deal+ ) ! great] arts1 leav+ !m to ! /udy ( ! le>n$ 9 ea* special bran*4 ,all art1 h[ev]1 ?r[s reflect$ lights1 & glean+ 9 ! track ( ^? au?ors :o h prec$$ u1 we (t5 pick up valuable h9ts :i* we accept1 & make use ( !m gladly4 ,"s writ]s h ?\ght x incumb5t on !m to give a local habitation & an abid+ place to ne$lework1 & !y h reg>d$ x z a bran* ( pa9t+4 ,b ,i _c endorse ?is classification4 ,accord+ to ,semp]1 inde$1 x is ! "m-art ( sculpture & pa9t+1 in/ead ( be+ ! (fspr+ ( ei!r or bo?1 z o!rs h ma9ta9$4#d ,!y h1 inde$1 su* di/9ct functions t ea* may ju/ly boa/ its own orig9al s\rces4 ,pa9t+ is ! art ( col\r2 sculpture is t ( =m2 embroid]y is ! art ( clo?+ =ms4 ,!y are all s anci5t1 t 9 seek+ to asc]ta9 _! beg9n+s & dates4 ,x is difficult to fix ! prec$5ce ( "o ov] ano!r4 ,we may comp>e1 di/+ui%1 & yet aga9 *ange our op9ions z fre% facts come "u our obs]vation4 ,! art ( ne$lework rea*$ its climax long ago1 & is n[ v old4 ,hi/ory & fad$ rags are ! only witnesses to its fabul\s glories1 9 ,classical1 ,ori5tal1 & e>ly ,m$ival days4 ,x w\ld appe> t no?+ new rema9s to be inv5t$4 ,copies ( pa/ /yles1 & selections f ! scraps we reta9 & value z models1 are all t we c boa/ ( n[4 ,dr4 ,rock truly says t few p]sons ( ! pres5t day h ! fa9te/ idea ( ! lab\r1 ! money1 ! "t1 (t5 be/[$ ( old ^u embroid]ies :i* _h be5 design$ z well z wr\ght by ! h&s ( m5 & wom51 ea* 9 _! own craft ! be/ & able/ ( _! day4 ,"t is too %ort1 our life too d5sely cr[d$1 to all[ leisure = ! extravagance ( :at is1 aft] all1 only a luxury ( art--no long] a civiliz]1 z ( old1 b j an effloresc5ce ( our culture4 ,embroid]y is n[ ess5tially decoration1 & no?+ m4 ,x is int5d$ to appeal to ! s5se ( beauty ( ! eye1 r ?an to ! imag9ation4 ,! design] = ne$lework %\ld be an arti/1 b he ne$ n be a poet4 ,y may omit ?is art altoge!r1 & y ne$ be none ! less sumptu\sly clo!d & lodg$4 ,yet x is wor?y ( c>eful /udy z hi/orical evid5ce1 & t 9 ! pres5t & future1 z 9 ! pa/1 x may be an art1 & n m]ely a craft4 ,= ! great web ( hi/ory is compos$ ( _m ?reads ( div]s col\rs1 & ! w>p & ! wo( are (t5 ex*ang$1 yet s connect$ & knott$ toge!r t ! cont9uity is nev] brok54 ,on ?is web1 ,"t has drawn ! picture ( ! pa/--sometimes fa9tly1 sometimes ) indelible t9ts & pron\nc$ =ms4 ,by poetry2 by ar*itecture & its decorations2 by dress1 :i* repres5ts & di/+ui%es nationalities2 by cu/oms1 su* z ! diff]5t =ms ( burial2 or ev5 by su* details z pa9t+ ! eyes2 also by ! tradition & outcome ( ! laws ( ! tribes t fl[$ consecutively ov] ,europe f ! ,ea/2 by ! in/itutions :i* rema9$ immutably fix$ on _! native soil1 su* z ^? ( ! ,code ( ,manu1 & ^? ( ,babylon1 inscrib$ on bricks or clay2 or by ! words1 _! =m & lett]+1 9 :i* ^! are h&$ d[n to u2--out ( all ^! ! hi/ory ( man is be+ recon/ruct$4 ,h[ valuable is e witness to ! anci5t records1 :i* 7 fad+ into my?s 9 ! memories ( m54 ,h[ joyfully is ea* little fact hail$ z a l&m>k1 9 ! g5]al fog ( d\bt6 ,n[ embroid]y may boa/ t x is a s\rce ( l&m>ks = all "t4 ,)\t presum+ to fix a date = its fir/ beg9n+1 t :i* ,i wi% to impress on ! m9d ( ! read] is ! long cont9uity ( ! art ( ne$lework4 ,! s5se ( antiquity induces rev]5ce1 & ,i claim = ! ne$le an old] & m illu/ri\s age ?an c be accord$ to ! bru%4 ,:ile ! great p5dulum ( ,"t has swung art 9 sculpture1 pa9t+1 & ar*itecture1 f its cradle z 9 ,myc51 to its ?rone 9 ,a!ns 9 ! days ( ,p]icles1 & !n back aga9 to ! base/ pov]ty ( decay+ ,rome--ne$le "w1 cont9ually refre%$ f ,ea/]n inspiration1 nev] has fall5 s l[1 ?\gh x _h nev] aspir$ z high z its great] si/] arts4 ,! /uffs & fabrics ( v>i\s mat]ials ( ! ,egyptians1 ,*9ese1 ,assyrians1 & ,*aldeans are nam$ 9 ! e>lie/ records ( ! human race4 ,h[ mu* ^! decorations dep5d$ on weav+1 & h[ mu* on embroid]y ) ! ne$le1 may 9 ea* case be disput$4 ,! products ( ! ,babylonian looms are allud$ to 9 ! ,book ( ,jo%ua4 ,_! beauty tempt$ ,a*an to rescue !m :5 ,j]i*o fell2#e & ,ezekiel speaks ( ! embroid]ies ( ,canneh1 ,h>an1 & ,ed51 z well z ( _! clo?s ( purple & blue1 & _! *e/s ( g>m5ts ( div]s col\rs#f4 ,all ^! fabrics are nam$ z m]*&ise1 & 7 c>ri$ to ! sea-coa/1 & !nce ov] ! anci5t _w1 by ! ,phnicians1 ! great %ip[n]s & deal]s ( ! ,ea/4 ,indian ne$lework & design is #djjj ye>s old2 & ! long p]spective ( ,egyptian art1 :ile lead+ u /ill fur!r back into unlimit$ p]iods1 %[s x *ang+ s sl[ly1 t we feel z if x _h be5 all b /ation>y f ! beg9n+4 ,! ,*9ese claim #ejjj ye>s z ! life ( _! hi/ory2 b if1 z is n[ sugge/$1 _! civilization is ,accadian or ,proto-,babylonian1 _! wond]ful arti/ic & sci5tific k may h be5 fragm5ts ( ! great disp]sal1 secret$ & pres]v$ beh9d ! wond]ful wall#g ( /one1 sil5ce1 & law1 :]e x has la9 fossiliz$ ev] s9ce4 ,"o _c b wond] at ! p]fection ( ! textile manufactures ( ! ,*9ese1 _! m>vell\s embroid]ies1 & ! peculi> modes ( con/ruction & design ?r\gh\t _! arts1 :i* h %[n b few mom5ts ( *ange 9 gr[?--sc>cely a sign ( evolution4 ,& we may fairly surmise t ?is ,accadian culture 7if su* x be7 is reflect$ f ant$iluvian tradition4 ,! ar*ology ( ,ori5tal art is mo/ int]e/+4 ,we contemplate ) awe ! va/ spl5d\rs ( ! consecutive civilizations ( ! ,ea/2 ! anci5t ri*ness & f]tility ( ! :ole ( ! ,asiatic cont95t2 ! g5ius = empire & = comm]ce2 ! creative p[] :i* seem$ to p\r itself =?1 un*eck$ by w>s & conque/s2 ! great dyna/ies :i* rose & fell1 leav+ beh9d !m gigantic works1 & ! records ( fabul\s luxury 9 ! empires ( ,*9a1 ,assyria1 ,india1 & ,p]sia1 ( :i* ! rema9s h be5 ( late ye>s excavat$1 deciph]$1 & confront$ ) ! hi/orical texts :i* we h inh]it$1 & _h only p>tly believ$4 ,& /udy+ ^! new aspects ( hi/ory1 we are sadd5$1 ?9k+ t ! sunrise comes to u f %9+ ov] des]t s&s or ! m\nds ( empty cities1 :]e ! lion & ! jackal reass]t _! primeval possession1 or :]e ! ,european & ! ,t>t>1 f ! ,we/ & f ! ,ea/1 dispute _! rights to suz]a9ty4 ,we are dazzl$ & confus$ :5 we look back to ^? great days :5 ! ov]-peopl$ k+doms s5t =? :ole tribes1 ea/w>d to ! conf9es ( ,asia1 s\?w>d ov] ,india1 & we/w>d ov] ,europe2 & we b[ rev]5tly be=e ! mighty ,p[] t l$ ! ,jews1 by a promise & a hope1 across ! see?+ nationalities1 ?r\gh ! long passage ( "t f ,abraham to ,solomon2 & :i* is aga9 giv+ into ! h&s ( ^? ,ori5tal-look+ m51 s mu* p[] 9 %ap+ ! de/9y ( mank9d ?r\gh _! great ri*es4 ,moses comm&$ ! ,hebrew p to l5d & nev] to borr[4 ,!y h obey$ 8 precept1 except 9 art2 to t !y h l5t or giv5 no?+4 ,!re is no national ,jewi% art4 ,= music only d !y %[ arti/ic g5ius1 & t is ,european & n ,ori5tal4 ,z illu/rat+ _! lack ( intuitive decorative art1 "o ne$ only ref] to ! ar*itecture ( ! fir/1 second1 & ?ird ,temple build+s1 :i* app>5tly reflect$ ,babylonian & ,semitic influ5ces on an e>ly ,*aldean type4 ,! embroid]ies m5tion$ by diff]5t writ]s1 f ,moses to ,josephus1 appe> to h _h always a ,babylonian1 or lat] a ,p]sian inspiration4 ,?is abs5ce ( arti/ic g5ius is v rem>kable 9 a p t _h its orig9 9 ! ,ea/]n c5tre f :5ce all art has radiat$4 ,! reason t s little survives ( anci5t embroid]y is evid5t4 ,wooll5 /uffs & ?reads decay quickly--! mo? & ru/ d corrupt !m--& ! v few anci5t bits t rema91 h be5 pres]v$ by ! embalm+ process1 :i* has kept ! cont5ts ( tombs f becom+ du/4 ,z to m mod]n embroid]ies1 we ought to be ?ankful t ! art has _h its fa%ions2 o!rwise1 ! _w w\ld be ov]:elm$ ) %abby rags4 ,human nature has a t5d5cy to dislike ! old-fa%ion$--i4e4 ! fa%ion ( ! la/ g5]ation4 ,t :i* our mo!rs work$ or wore1 is an object = affectionate s5tim5t1 & ! be/ specim5s alone are pres]v$4 ,t :i* belong$ to our gr&fa!rs & gr&mo!rs has rec$$ into ! rococo2 & a few m g5]ations take u back to ! antique1 ( :i* s little survives1 f we> & te>1 c>elessness & !ft1 t we put away & pres]ve x z be+ curi\s & preci\s4 ,we may hope t ! g5]al law ( ! survival ( ! fitte/ has gu>d$ :at is mo/ rem>kable4 ,c]ta9 works h be5 consecrat$ by ! h&s t execut$ !m1 or by t ( ! donor1 or by ! purpose = :i* !y 7 be/[$1 & are mo/ly pres]v$ 9 *ur*es or national museums4 ,( ^! !re are ve/m5ts & alt> decorations work$ by royal & noble ladies2 & coronation g>m5ts giv5 by ,que5s & ,empresses1 su* z ,que5 ,gisela's & ! ,empress ,kunigunda's at ,prague & ,bamb]g1 & ,*>lemagne's dalmatic at ! ,vatican1 describ$ 9 ! *apt] on ecclesia/ical embroid]ies4 ,sculptur$ effigies help u z to embroid]$ patt]ns2 = our =efa!rs (t5 actually copi$ 9 bronze or /one ! patt]ns ( ! g>m5ts 9 :i* ! body 0 buri$1 or at any rate1 ^? ! man _h worn 9 8 life4 ,( ^!1 ,k+ ,john's monum5t at ,worce/]1 & ! surcoat ( ! ,black ,pr9ce at ,cant]bury1 are rem>kable examples4#h ,! succe$+ *apt]s w conta9 sket*es ( ! hi/ory ( ! diff]5t /it*es1 & ( ! be/ examples ( /it* & /yle rema9+ to u2 & ,i %all try to extract f bo? ! be/ sugge/ions = guidance 9 design & h&icraft4 ,embroid]y f its nature is ess5tially ! woman's art4#i ,x ne$s a s$5t>y life1 indu/ry & pati5ce4 ,x does n require a room to itself1 & ! work] may leave x at any mom5t betwe5 two /it*es :5 call$ to o!r duties4 ,nunn]ies produc$ ! f9e/ "w ( ! d>k & middle ages2 & _! tea*+ inaugurat$ ! workrooms 9 ! palaces & ca/les1 :]e "y girls1 :e!r royal1 noble1 or g5tle1 7 tra9$ 9 embroid]y z an accompli%m5t & a h\sehold duty4 ,! hi/ory ( dome/ic embroid]y ought to be look$ ^u z t ( an important factor 9 ! humaniz+ effect ( /hetic culture4 ,! woman ( ! h\se has always be5 /rong to fulfil h] "p 9 ?is civiliz+ influ5ce ) ! implem5t :i* cu/om has aw>d$ to h]4 ,e man 9 ! anci5t ,ea/ began 8 life "u ! t5t or 9 ! palace adorn$ by ! h&s ( 8 "m & h] maid5s1 & 8 home 0 made beautiful by 8 wife & 8 si/]s & _! slaves4 ,!re1 z 9 m$ival homes1 lessons ( morality & religion1 & ! love & fame ( noble de$s1 7 taught by ! pa9t+ ( ! ne$le to ! m9ds ( ! "y m51 :o w\ld h scorn$ m direct tea*+2 & ! *ildr5 felt ! influ5ce1 z ! wom5 wove :at ! b>ds sang4 ,alas6 we h b few specim5s ( embroid]ies ( :i* we "k ! hi/ory1 e>li] ?an ! t5? & elev5? c5turies4#aj ,yet f ! days ( ! books ( ! ,old ,te/am5t & ! song ( ! siege ( ,troy1 d[n to ! pres5t "t1 ! woman ( ! h\se has adorn$ n only h]self & h] de> "l1 b %e has hung ! walls1 ! seats1 ! b$1 & ! tables ) h] beautiful creations4 ,hom]'s wom5 7 all arti/s ) ! ne$le4 ,v5us seek+ ,hel51-- ,l fair ,laodice 9 =m & face1 ,! lovelie/ nymph ( ,priam's royal race1 ,"h 9 ! palace at h] loom %e f\nd3 ,! gold5 web h] own sad /ory cr[n'd4 ,! ,trojan w>s %e weav$ 7h]self ! prize71 ,& ! dire triumph ( h] fatal eyes4#aa ,?is mu/ h be5 int5d$ = hang+s4 ,hecuba's w>drobe is ?us describ$3-- ,! ,phrygian que5 to h] ri* w>drobe w5t1 ,:]e treasur$ od\rs brea!d a co/ly sc5t2 ,!re lay ! ve/ures ( no vulg> art1 ,sidonian maids embroid]'d e "p4 ,"h1 z ! que5 revolv$ ) c>eful eyes ,! v>i\s textures & ! v>i\s dyes ,%e *ose a web t %one sup]ior f>1 ,& gl['d refulg5t z ! morn+ />4#ab ,! wom5 ( ! ,middle ,ages 7 great at ! loom & frame4 ,f ! ,kle9e ,held5bu* ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ,rock quotes ^! l9es3-- ,:o taught me to embroid] 9 a frame ) silk1 ,& to sket* & design ! wild & tame ,bea/s ( ! =e/ & field8 ,also to picture on pla9 surfaces2 ,r\nd ab\t to place gold5 bord]s-- n>r[ & a broad "o-- ,) /ags & h9ds1 lifelike4 ,gudrun1 l ! wom5 ( ,hom]1 embroid]$ hi/ory--t ( ! ance/ors ( ,siegfri$4 ,b 9 ! ,middle ,ages ! embroid]]s 7 ambiti\s arti/s4 ,! de$s ( ,rol& & ! siege ( ,troy1 all romantic & classical lore1 provid$ subjects = ! ne$le4 ,%akespe>e gives a pretty picture ( ! graceful weav] & embroid]]3-- 99 99 99 ,w\ld ev] ) ,m>9a be3-- ,be't :5 %e weaves ! sleid$ silk1 ,) f+]s long1 small1 :ite z milk2 ,or :5 %e w\ld ) %>p neeld w\nd ,! cambric1 :i* %e makes m s\nd ,by hurt+ x4444 ,deep cl]ks %e dumbs2 & ) h] neeld composes ,nature's own %ape1 ( bud1 bird1 bran*1 or b]ry1 ,t ev5 h] art si/]s ! natural roses4#ac ,be=e clos+ ?is ,introduction1 ,i w take ! opportunity to prote/ aga9/ ! abuse ( ! phrase ,high ,art4 ,x is g5]ally appropriat$ by t :i* is ! l[e/ & mo/ feeble4 ,an old design = a *air or table1 by no means rem>kable orig9ally1 b *eaply copi$1 & cov]$ ) a qua9t & dismal cretonne or poorly work$ patt]n1 ( :i* ! design is nei!r new nor arti/ic1 is introduc$ by ! uphol/]] z belong+ to ,high ,art furniture4 ,! epi!t has succe$$ to :at 0 once fa%ionable & elegant4 ,to get rid ( c>pets1 & put d[n rugs1 to hang up r[s ( plates in/ead ( family portraits--?is also is high art4 ,likewise g[ns lump$ ^u ! %\ld]s1 ) all ! folds drawn across1 in/ead ( hang+ drap]ies4 ,! t]m is nev] us$ :5 we speak ( ! great arts--pa9t+1 sculpture1 & ar*itecture4 ,x is1 9 fact1 only ! slang ( ! cab9et-mak]1 ! uphol/]]1 & mill9]4 ,all true ,art is v high inde$ & app>5t2 & ne$s n to be introduc$ ) a puff4 ,x sits en?ron$ betwe5 ,poetry & ,hi/ory4 ,ev5 ^? :o are ignorant ( its laws feel its influ5ce1 & ! soo?+ grace :i* x %$s1 fall+ l ! ra91 equally ^u ! j & ! unju/4 ,man's nature always responds to ! truly high & beautiful2 only ! mo/ degrad$ are depriv$ ( ?is s\rce ( happ9ess4 ,& !re are b few wom51 till debas$ by cruelty1 mis]y1 or dr9k1 t d n try 9 "s humble way 7b especially ) _! ne$le7 to adorn _! own p]sons1 _! *ildr51 & _! homes2 & if _! art is n high1 x yet has ! p[] to elevate !m4#ad ,:ile ! mo/ ambiti\s wom5 try a high] flight1 into ! regions ( poetry1 lit]ature1 pa9t+1 & ev5 sculpture 7:y has no woman ev] be5 an ar*itect871 millions h enjoy$ ! art ( ! ne$le = ?\s&s ( ye>s1 & x w cont9ue to be a solace & a delight z long z ! _w la/s1 =1 l all art1 x gives ! ev] new joy ( creation4 ,,footnotes3 #c ,see ,duke ( ,argyll's ,unity ( ,nature4 #d ,walls1 pill>s1 & ro(s 7 c]ta9ly hung ) textile ornam5t be=e !y 7 c>v$ or pa9t$4 ,?is is ,semp]'s !ory1 & ?\gh ,woltmann & ,wo]mann 7,hi/ory ( ,pa9t+1 ,eng4 ,trans41 ,sidney ,colv91 p4 #ch7 h>dly accept ?is view1 !y d n ga9say x4 ,! wom5 :o wove hang+s = ! grove1 or m lit]ally1 cov]+s = ! h\ses ( ! grove1 7 probably ! prie/esses ( ,a/>te1 & wove & work$ ! hang+s ( v>i\s col\rs4 #b ,k+s xxii42 ,ezek4 xvi4 #af-ah4 ,x is probable t ! e>lie/ k9d ( pictures 7 ei!r wov5 or embroid]$ ^u figur$ /uffs ( v>i\s col\rs2 & t 9 ^! decorations ! ,greeks 9 ! fir/ in/ance imitat$ ! ,semitic races1 :o _h practis$ !m f "t immemorial4 ,see ,woltmann & ,wo]mann's ,hi/ory ( ,pa9t+ 7,eng4 ,trans471 p4 #ch4 #e ,jo%ua vii4 #f ,ezek4 xxvii4 #bc4 #g ,! wall ( ,*9a1 :i*1 bo? figuratively & lit]ally1 enclos$ its civilization1 & f5c$ (f t ( ! out] _w1 = ?\s&s ( ye>s4 #h ,:5 ! tomb ( ,k+ ,john 0 op5$1 ! body 0 f\nd wrapp$ 9 ! same dress z t sculptur$ on 8 effigy4 ,! surcoat ( ! ,black ,pr9ce1 ( embroid]$ velvet1 /ill hangs above 8 monum5t1 on :i* x is exactly reproduc$4 #i ,yet m51 too1 h wield$ ! embroid]+ ne$le4 #aj ,^! remnants are n1 l ! /raws 9 amb]1 only preci\s because !y are curi\s2 !y are mo/ sugge/ive z works ( art4 #aa ,pope's ,hom]1 ,iliad1 book iii4 #ab ,ibid4 book vi4 #ac ,%akespe>e1 ,p]icles1 ,pr9ce ( ,tyre1 act iv4 #bj2 v4 #e4 #ad ,surely x is a humaniz+ & ,*ri/ian pr9ciple :i* 9 ,italy p]mits arti/ic "w to be done 9 ! prisons :]e crim9als are conf9$ = life4 ,si/]s ( ,m]cy tea* lace-mak+ to ! wret*$ wom5 :o1 hav+ committ$ great crimes1 may nev] be se5 aga94 ,! produce ( ! "w helps to pay ! exp5se ( ! prison1 & at ! same "t a v small p]c5tage is giv5 to ! prison]s to s5d to _! fri5ds1 or to sp5d on little com=ts1 ?us enc\rag+ ! poor human creatures to ex]cise _! be/ p[]s4 ,we believe ?is is sometimes all[$ also 9 ,engl& & ,france4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,/yle4 ,9 v5tur+ to approa* s great a subject z ! hi/ory ( /yle1 ,i w\ld beg my read]s to believe h[ well ,i am aw>e t on ea* po9t mu* m has be5 already c>efully treat$ by previ\s writ]s1 ?an w fall )9 ! limits ( a *apt] t is int5d$ only to ?r[ light on textile art1 & especially on embroid]y4 ,i suppose x is ! same 9 all subjects ( human speculation :i* are wor?y ( s]i\s /udy2 & !re=e ,i ought n to h be5 surpris$ to f9d h[ mu* has already be5 writt5 on ne$lework & embroid]y1 & h[ unconsci\sly ,i1 at lea/1 h pass$ by & ignor$ ^! notices1 till x /ruck me t ,i ought to "k some?+ ( ! hi/ory & pr9ciples ( ! art :i* ) o!rs1 ,i 0 /riv+ to revive & improve4 ,!n new & old facts cr[d$ r\nd me1 & became significant & int]e/+4 ,i long$ to "k some?+ ( ! fir/ work] & ! fir/ ne$le2 & behold ! ne$le has be5 f\nd6--among ! dbris ( ! life ( ! ,neoli?ic cave-man1 made ( bone & v neatly fa%ion$4 ,alas6 ! workwoman & h] "w are gone to du/2 b !re is ! ne$le6--pro( positive t ! craft exi/$ be=e ! la/ glacial p]iod 9 ,brita94#ae ,h[ long ago ?is 01 we may conjecture1 b c nev] f9ally asc]ta94 ,!n ,i f9d embroid]y nam$ by ! e>lie/ hi/orians1 by e poet ( antiquity1 & by ! fir/ travell]s 9 ! ,ea/2 & x has be5 ! subject ( laws & enactm5ts f ! date ( ! ,code ( ,manu 9 ,india1 to ! pres5t c5tury4 ,"o becomes eag] to sy/ematize all ?is in=mation1 & to %>e ) ! work]s & ?9k]s ( ! craft1 ! pleasure f\nd 9 its /udy4 ,p]haps :at is "h collect$ may appe> some:at bald & disjo9t$2 b antiquity1 bo? human & hi/orical1 is apt to be bald2 & its dislocation & disjo9t$ condition are ow+ to ! frequ5t cataclysms1 physical1 political1 & social1 :i* ne$lework has surviv$1 br++ d[n to u ! same /it*es :i* s]v$ ! same purposes = decoration "u ! ,code ( ,manu1 & adorn$ ! ,sanctu>y 9 ! wild]ness2 & ^? /it*es probably 7 n new !n4 ,i propose to give a slight sket* ( ! orig9 ( ! /yles#af t h foll[$ ea* o!r1 not+ ! national influ5ces t h displac$ or alt]$ !m1 & ! ov]lap ( /yle caus$ by outside ev5ts4 ,fir/1 ,i w\ld def9e :at ,,/yle means4 ,/yle is ! m>k impress$ on art by a national p]iod1 %ort or long4 ,x fades1 x wanes1 & !n "s hi/orical elem5t ent]s on ! sc5e1 :i* c>ries ) x new mat]ials1 ne$s1 & ta/es 7ei!r import$ or spr++ up "u ! new conditions74 ,! /yle ( ! day 9 art & lit]ature alt]s s p]ceptibly1 t all :o h _h any arti/ic tra9+ are at once aw>e ( ! diff]5ce4 ,( late ye>s1 ! sci5ce ( hi/ory has be5 greatly assi/$ by ! sci5ce ( language4 ,:5 ! mute language ( art %all h be5 pati5tly deciph]$1 ! hi/orian w be furni%$ ) new p[]s 9 8 rese>*es aft] tru?4 ,! fir/ ineffaceable is a ^w2 ! second a patt]n4 ,?is is prov$ by ! hi/ory ( ne$lework4 ,z ! _w gr[s old1 its y\? becomes m int]e/+4 ,alas6 ! *ildhood ( mank9d is s di/ant1 & x 0 s long be=e x le>n$ its lett]s1 t b few facts h come d[n to u1 on :i* we may firmly build our !ories2 yet we mu/ ackn[l$ge ! great /ride t has be5 made 9 ! la/ few ye>s1 9 ! sci5tific mode ( extract+ hi/ory f ! ru9s & tombs1 & ev5 ! du/-heaps1 ( ! pa/4 ,:ole epo*s1 :i* fifty ye>s ago 7 z blank z ! !n maps ( ,c5tral ,africa1 are be+ n[ gradually cov]$ ) l&m>ks4 ,lay>d1 ,rawl9son1 ,c4 ,t4 ,newton1 ,botta1 ,rassam1 ,s*liemann1 ,bir*1 ,g4 ,smi?1 & a cr[d ( ar*ologi/s1 & ev5 unsci5tific explor]s1 are collect+ ! mat]ials f :i* ! hi/ory ( mank9d is be+ recon/ruct$4 ,f !m ,i h s\ght in=mation ab\t ! art ( embroid]y1 & ,i f9d t ,semp] gives x a high pre-em95ce z to its antiquity1 mak+ x ! f\ndation & />t+-po9t ( all art4 ,he clo!s n only man1 b ar*itecture1 ) ! products ( ! loom & ! ne$le2 & d]ives f !m 9 succession1 pa9t+1 bas-relief1 & sculpture4#ag 99 99 99 99 99 ,/yle has to be consid]$ 9 two diff]5t aspects1 f two diff]5t /&po9ts4 ,fir/1 hi/orically & ar*ologically1 di/+ui%+ & dat+ ! =ms :i* foll[ ^u ea* o!r2 & trac+ !m back 9 ! ord] ( _! natural sequ5ce2 s z to guide u to ! root1 nay1 to ! se$#ah ( ea* & all art4 ,! subsidi>y art ( embroid]y1 9 its highe/ =m ! h&maid ( ar*itecture1 is full ( sugge/ion1 & may assi/ u greatly 9 ! se>* :i* culm9ates 9 ! text ( ,9 ! beg9n+4 ,! o!r po9t ( view f :i* /yle %\ld be consid]$ is ! /hetic4 ,?is enables u to criticize ! works ( diff]5t p]iods2 extract+1 z f> z we may1 rules = ! beautiful & ! comm5dable1 & seek+ to f9d ! :y8 also obs]v+ ! op]ation ( ! law by :i* decay foll[s too soon aft] ! be/ & highe/ ef=ts ( g5ius1 ?\ght1 & inv5tion 9 art4 ,my pres5t object is ! hi/ory ( consecutive /yles1 9 s f> z !y conc]n ne$lework4 ,alas6 no?+ endures4 ,?is law is ackn[l$g$ by ,goe!1 :5 he makes ,jove answ] ,v5us1 :o bewail$ t all t is beautiful mu/ die1--t he _h only be/[$ beauty on ! evanesc5t4 ,x seems z if ! mom5t ! be/ is atta9$1 m51 ceas+ to /ruggle = ! bett]1 fall back at once hopelessly & become m]e imitators4 ,!y no long] foll[ a type1 b copy a model1 & !n copy ! copy4 ,imitation is a precipice1 a swift desc5t ?r\gh pov]ty ( ?\ght into ! *aos ( mann]ism1 9 ! place ( /yle4 ,! imitative t5d5cy1 z exi/+ 9 all human m9ds1 _c be ignor$ or despis$4 ,9 individuals x accompanies en?usiasm = ! beautiful1 & ! graceful *>m ( sympa?y4 ,x ma9ta9s cont9uity betwe5 specim5 & specim51 betwe5 arti/ & arti/1 betwe5 c5tury & c5tury2 & x is ?is :i* enables an adept to say ) c]ta9ty ( consecutive /yles1 ,?is is ,spani% "w ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 t is ,flemi% or ,g]man "w ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! !ory ( developm5t & ( ! survival ( ! fitte/ has be5 work$ s h>d1 t x sometimes breaks d[n "u ! task impos$ ^u x4 ,x w\ld ne$ to include ,dea? 9 its proc$ure4 ,9 our cre$1 ,dea?1 means ! mom5t ( entrance into a high] exi/5ce2 b 9 art x means ext9ction1 leav+ beh9d nei!r a hi/ory nor an artisan--only1 p]haps1 an inf9itely small tradition1 l ! gra9 ( corn pres]v$ 9 ! wrapp+s ( a mummy1 f :i* at fir/ accid5t1 & !n c>e & culture1 may evoke a future life4 ,! v>i\s ways 9 :i* art has appe>$ at ! beg9n+ _c "h be discuss$2 nor h[ ! ,*9ese & ,h9du may h leapt into a p]fection :i* has /ood /ill = ?\s&s ( ye>s1 protect$ alike f expansion z f de/ruction1 by ! swaddl+ b&s ( codifi$ cu/om2 :ile ,greek art rose l ! sun1 %one ov] ! civiliz$ _w1 & set--nev] aga9 to see ano!r epo* ( glory4 ,^! subjects mu/ be left = ! /udy ( ! an?ropological philosoph]1 :o is work+ = ! assi/ance & guidance ( ! future hi/orian ( art4 ,/yle 9 ne$lework has pass$ ?r\gh _m phases s9ce ! aborig9al1 prehi/oric woman1 ) ! bone ne$le1 drew toge!r ! edges ( ! sk9s ( ! animals %e _h prep>$ = food4 ,= absolute necessity1 9 =m+ ! g>m5ts & cov]+ ! t5t1 ne$lework ne$ g no fur!r ?an ! seam4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 9 ! wov5 or plait$ mat]ial1 mu/ fray :]e x is %ap$1 & become fr+$ at ! edges4 ,e long seam is a sugge/ion1 & e %ap$ edge a sn>e4 ,! fr+e l5ds itself to ! tassel1 & ! %ap$ seam sugge/s a patt]n2 up-/it*es are ne$$ = b9d+ ! web1 & be=e %e is aw>e ( x1 ! work] f9ds h]self adorn+1 embroid]+2 & ! craft ent]s ! outskirts ( ! region ( art4 ,! humble e>ly ef=ts at decoration1 call$ by ! ,fr5* primitif1 are ! fir/ we "k & class1 & are f\nd 9 all savage attempts at ornam5t4 ,?is /yle consi/s ma9ly ( /raight l9es1 zigzags1 wavy l9es1 dots1 & little discs4#ai ,gold discs ( _m sizes1 & work$ ) a v>iety ( patt]ns1 are f\nd equally 9 ! tomb ( ! w>rior at ,myc51 & 9 ,a%antee1 accompani$ 9 bo? cases ) gold masks cov]+ ! faces ( ! dead4 ,! discs or buttons rem9d u ( ^? f\nd 9 ,etruscan tombs1 ?\gh ! execution ( ^! la/ is m advanc$4 ,!y appe> to be ! orig9 ( ! clavus or nail-head$ patt]n wov5 into silks 9 ! ,palace ( ! ,cs>s4 ,! la/ record$ survival ( ?is patt]n is 9 wov5 mat]ials = ecclesia/ical purposes 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,( v e>ly ne$lework we only f9d "h & !re a fragm5t1 illu/rat$ occasionally by pass+ allusions 9 poetry & hi/ory4 ,! ornam5tal art ( ,hiss>lik#bj is s primitive t we _c feel t x has any resemblance to t describ$ z ,trojan by ,hom]1 :o probably adorn$ 8 song ) ! art he _h kn[n else:]e4#ba ,we "k n :at ! actual h]oes ( ! ,iliad & ,odyssey wore2 b we d "k t :at ,hom] describes1 he mu/ h se54 ,0 ,hom]1 !re=e1 ! contempor>y ( ! siege ( ,troy8--or does he n r speak ( ! cu/oms & co/umes ( 8 own "t1 & apply !m to ! traditions ( ! h]oic ages ( ,greece8 ,:atev] be ! date ( ,hom] himself1 we c1 ) ! help ( contempor>y survivals1 recon/ruct ! h\se & ! hall1 & ev5 furni% !m1 & clo! ! wom5 & ! pr9ces1 ! begg>s & ! h]dsm54 ,f ! rema9s ( ,egyptian1 ,babylonian1 & ,assyrian art we c p]ceive _! diff]5ces & _! aff9ities4 ,x is f textile fragm5ts1 f\nd mo/ly 9 tombs1 t we obta9 dates1 & c sugge/ !m = o!r specim5s4 ,! fun]al t5t ( ,%i%ak's "m-9-law1 at ,b\lac1 is mo/ valuable z %[+ :at 0 ! textile art ( t e>ly p]iod4#bb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,egyptian corselet4 7,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians47 ,! corselet :i*1 accord+ to ,h]odotus1 0 giv5 by ,amasis1 ,k+ ( ,egypt1 to ! ,temple ( ,m9]va at ,l9dos1 9 ,rhodes1 0 possibly work$ 9 ?is /yle2 = ,babylonian embroid]y 0 greatly priz$ 9 ,egypt1 & imitat$4 ,! second corselet giv5 by ,amasis to ! ,lacdemonians 0 work$ 9 gold & col\rs1 ) animals & o!r decorations4 ,?is 0 ( ! sev5? c5tury ,b4,c4#bc ,among/ ! arms pa9t$ on ! wall ( ! tomb ( ,rameses1 at ,!bes 79 ,egypt71 is a corselet1 app>5tly ( ri* /uff1#bd embroid]$ ) lions & o!r devices4 7,fig4 #a47 ,! ,phnicians imbib$ & reproduc$ ! /yles !y met ) 9 _! voyages4 ,! b[ls f\nd 9 ,cyprus describ$ & engrav$ 9 ! ,septemb] numb] ( ! ,magaz9e ( ,art 7#ahhc71 are mo/ int]e/+ illu/rations ( ! meet+ ( two national /yles1 ! ,assyrian & ! ,egyptian4#be ,hom]'s ,%ield ( ,a*illes#bf mu/1 9 g5]al design1 h resembl$ ^! b[ls 7see ,pl4 #e74 ,!y also recall ! description by ,josephus ( ! ,temple veils at ,j]usalem1 :i* 7 ,babylonian4#bg ,phnicia1 :i* 0 ! c>ri] ( all art1 dropp$ specim5s "h & !re1 = _m hundr$ ye>s1 along ! bord]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean & ! coa/s ( ,spa94 ,we fancy we c trace h] ocean-pa? by ! we/]n %ores ( ,africa1 & ev5 to ,am]ica2 o!rwise1 h[ c\ld x happ5 t a mummy-wrapp+ 9 ,p]u %\ld s ne>ly resemble "s ( ^? wrapp+s f\nd at ,sacc>ah1#bh 9 ,egypt1 wov5 9 precisely ! same tape/ry fa%ion8 ,among ! puzzl+ ph5om5a due probably to ,phnician comm]ce1 is ! complete suite ( ! sac]dotal ornam5ts ( a ,high ,prie/1 f\nd 9 8 tomb1#bi n[ 9 ! ,vatican ,museum4 ,?is rem9ds u ( o!r specim5s ( ar*aic art f di/ant s\rces1 t our att5tion is =cibly arre/$1 & we wond] :5ce !y came1 & :e!r !y 7 collect$ f ali5 civilizations by ! ,phnicians be=e !y disp]s$ !m4#cj ,c]ta9 ,egyptian sculptures ( de=m$ & repulsive div9ities--idols ( ! bas] sort--are mo/ int]e/+ & puzzl+ by _! aff9ity 9 /yle to ! ,indo-,dravidian & ! art ( ,mexico1 :ile !y are entirely unlike t ( ,egypt4 ,if ,atlantis & its arts nev] exi/$1 x may be sugge/$ t x 0 ! ea/]n coa/ ( ,am]ica t 0 spok5 ( "u t "n by ! ,egyptian prie/ ) :om ,h]odotus conv]s$4 ,! ,babylonian & ,n9evite embroid]ies1 c>efully execut$ on _! bas-reliefs1 h a mascul9e look1 :i* sugge/s ! design ( an arti/ & ! "w ( slaves4 ,!re is no foll[+ out ( graceful fancies2 "o set ( select$ =ms 7ea* probably ) a symbolical int5tion7 foll[+ ano!r4 ,! effect1 z se5 on ! sculptures 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is royally gorge\s2 & "o feels t creatures inf]ior to mon>*s or satraps c\ld nev] h aspir$ to su* spl5d\rs4 ,probably ! embroid]y on _! corselets 0 execut$ 9 gold wire1 treat$ z ?read1 & tak5 ?r\gh ! mat]ial2 & ! same sy/em 0 c>ri$ out 9 adorn+ ! trapp+s ( ! horses & ! *>iots4 ,! solid masses ( embroid]y may h be5 aft]w>ds subject$ to ! action ( ! hamm]1 :i* w\ld acc\nt = _! appe>+ l jewell]'s "w 9 ! bas-reliefs 7,pl4 #a & #b74 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #a4 ,assurbanipal fight+ lions4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #b4 ,portion ( a ,babylonian ,royal ,mantle4 ,lay>d's ,monum5ts1 s]ies i41 pl4 #i4 ,! /yle ( ! ,babylonian embroid]ies appe>s to h be5 naturali/ic ?\gh conv5tionaliz$4 ,we may judge ( _! /yles = diff]5t purposes by ! reliefs 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,f _! veils & curta9s at a lat] date1 :5 !y _h cross$ _! art ) t ( ,india1 we may imag9e ! my/ical design ( ! ,temple curta9 z describ$ by ,josephus2 9 fact1 z mu* z possible embrac+ all ?+s on ! e>? & above x1 except+ ! images ( ! heav5ly bodies4#ca ,small c>pets f ,p]sia ( ! ,middle ,ages1 z well z ^? wov5 & embroid]$ ev5 to ! pres5t day1 are e*oes ( ! anci5t ,babylonian /yle1 & mo/ int]e/+ z hi/orical records ( ! traditions ( human ta/e4 ,our arti/ic int]e/s are /irr$ :5 we read 9 ,ezekiel li/s ( ! fabrics & mat]ials ( :i* ,tyre _h become ! c5tral dept1 & we enjoy trac+ !m to ! v>i\s looms1 nam$ 9 v]se & hi/ory1 :]e !y 7 adorn$ ) embroid]y1 & !n ei!r became articles ( comm]ce1 or 7 /or$ away to be kept religi\sly z heirlooms1 or pres5t$ z gifts to ! temples or to hon\r$ gue/s4 ,mr4 ,g4 ,smi?1 aft] say+ t ! ,babylonian is )\t d\bt ! olde/ ( civilizations1 cont9ues ?us3--,to u ! hi/ory ( ,babylonia has an int]e/ beyond t ( ,egypt1 on acc\nt ( its m intimate connection ) our own civilization4#cb ,babylon 0 ! c5tre f :i* x spread into ,assyria1 !nce to ,asia ,m9or & ,phnicia1 !n to ,greece & ,rome1 & s to all ,europe4 ,! ,jews br\ght ! traditions ( ! creation & ( e>ly religion f ,ur ( ! ,*aldees1#cc & ?us pres]v$ !y became ! h]itage ( all mank9d2 :ile ! sci5ce & civilization ( t wond]ful p 7! ,babylonians7 became ! basis ( mod]n rese>* & advancem5t4#cd ,! hang+s ( ! ,tab]nacle are s c>efully describ$ 9 ! book ( ,exodus1 t we c see 9 fancy ! l95 curta9s1 blue or :ite1 embroid]$ 9 sc>let1 purple1 blue1 & gold2 ! *]ubim 9 ! wov5 mat]ial2 ! fr+es enri*$ ) fl[]s1 buds1 fruit1 & gold5 bells3 & we c appreciate h[ little ( ,egyptian art & /yle ! *ildr5 ( ,israel br\ght back f _! long captivity1 & h[ soon !y rev]t$ to _! anci5t ,*aldean proclivities1 aft] return+ to _! w&]+ life ( ! t5t4 ,on ! bronze gates f ! m\nd ( ,balawat1 ne> ,nimr\d1 set up by ,%almanes] to celebrate 8 conque/ ( ,tyre & ,sidon1#ce we f9d a portable tab]nacle1 evid5tly meant to accompany ! army on a m>*4 ,x is n mu* l>g] ?an a f\r-po/ b$1 ) transv]se poles = draw+ ! curta9s1 all fr+$ ) bells & fruit4 ,?is is an illu/ration ( ! motive = ! ,tab]nacle ( ! =ty ye>s' w&]+ 9 ! des]t4 7,fig4 #b47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,tab]nacle on gates ( ,balawat1 "t ( ,%almanes] ,,ii4 7,briti% ,museum74 ,egyptian textile art is1 p]haps1 t ( :i* we h ! mo/ e>ly specim5s4 ,^! are to be se5 at ,b\lac1 at ,vi5na1 ,tur91 & ! ,briti% ,museum4#cf ,! ,hi]oglyphic1 ! ,ar*aic1 & ! ,grco-,egyptian are all unmi/akably ! consecutive outcome ( ! national orig9al /yle1 :i* _h totally disappe>$ 9 ! beg9n+ ( our era4 ,few ( ! embroid]ies are m ?an two ?\s& five hundr$ ye>s old4 ,b ! great piece ( pat*work 9 lea!r1 ! fun]al t5t ( an ,egyptian que51 z x cov]$ ! rema9s ( a contempor>y ( ,solomon1#cg absolutely exhibits ! pr(ici5cy ( ! design] & ! ne$lework ( ! elev5? c5tury ,b4,c4 7,pl4 #dd47 ,! connection betwe5 ,indian & ,egyptian e>ly art appe>s to h exi/$ only 9 _! use ( ! lotus z an emblem & a con/ant decoration2 b _! mann] ( employ+ x 0 *>act]i/ically diff]5t4 7,pl4 #ab & #ac47 ,! ,phnicians c>ri$ ) !m ! se$s ( ! ,egyptian /yle ov] ! anci5t _w2 b ^! se$s only took root & fl\ri%$ on ! soil ( ,greece4 ,! imitations ( ,egyptian /yle reappe>$ 9 ,rome1 & aga9 9 ,france "u ! two ,empires4 ,9 bo? cases !y 7 only imitations1 & nei!r _h any p]man5t influ5ce on ! art ( _! day4 ,i %all h to allude v (t5 to our ,ea/]n s\rces ( arti/ic culture4 ,our own ,aryan ance/ors 7 s impregnat$ ) beautiful ideas1 t we mu/ believe t we inh]it f !m all our graceful appreciation ( naturali/ic ornam5t4 ,b ev5 ,aryan art met ) rev]ses on its ,ea/]n soil1 f :i* x con/antly rose aga9 & r5ew$ itself4 ,! ,mongols cru%$ = a "t ! elem5t ( beauty 9 ,india4 ,!y introduc$ a b>b>\s & hide\s /yle :i* has its only c\nt]p>t 9 t ( ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,x 0 ! produce ( a religion1 sup]/iti\s1 cruel1 & devili%4 ,! ,aryan art ( ,india1 :i* 0 elegant & spiritual1 0 reviv$ by ! k9dr$ influ5ce ( ,p]sia1 & by ! ,r5aissance 9 ,europe4 ,italian & o!r arti/s 7 employ$ 9 ,india1 & ! _s ( a]ial grace1 & ! delicate s5se ( beauty 9 natural =ms1 blossom$ afre% & fl\ri%$ = #cjj ye>s4 ,birds1 fl[]s1 fruit1 butt]flies1 became once m ! legitimate ornam5t ( e mat]ial4#ch ,i cont9ue to quote f ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's ,arts ( ,india4 ,! ,code ( ,manu1 f #ijj to #cjj ,b4,c41 has secur$ to ! village sy/em ( ,india a p]man5t class ( h]$it>y arti/ic workm5 & artisans1 :o h ?r\gh ^! #bejj ye>s1 at lea/1 be5 tra9$ to ! same manipulations1 & :o !re=e translate any =eign "w :i* is plac$ be=e !m to copy1 into some?+ *>act]i/ically ,indian4#ci ,indian art has borr[$ freely f all s\rces )\t los+ its own individuality4 ,x has be5 said1 ,!re is no?+ new] 9 x ?an ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 & ev5 !n no?+ 0 orig9al1 especially 9 ! m9or arts4 ,b ?is is ow+ to ! ,h9du be+ equally end[$ ) assimilative & receptive capacity1#dj s t 9 ! h&s ( ! ,indian craftsman ev]y?+ assumes ! di/9ctive expression ( anci5t ,indian art4 ,9 ,india ev]y?+ is h&-wr\ght2 b z ! _s ( its decorative art is t ( a cry/alliz$ tradition1 its type has rema9$ almo/ unalt]$ s9ce ! ,aryan g5ius culm9at$ 9 ! ,ramyana & ,mahabhrata--& yet ea* artisan 9 ,india is a true arti/4#da ,9 art1 un=tunately1 ! lett] kille?2 & true arti/s z !y are1 ! anci5t traditions b9d & cramp !m1 :ile ! anci5t mat]ials1 ! dyes1 & ! absolute comm& ( "t are fail+3 s t ! beauty ( ,indian embroid]ies & o!r decorations is gradually r$uc+ itself to mann]ism1 :i* is m dang]\s to art ?an ev5 _h be5 ! vicissitudes ( w>2 = :5 peaceful days return$1 & ! waves ( conque/ _h subsid$1 ! anci5t arts 7 f\nd aga9 deeply emb$d$ 9 ! traditions ( ! p4 ,!y gradually return$ to _! old ways1 :i* are s indelible 9 ! ,h9du m9d1 t !y w p]haps survive ev5 ! fa%ions ( to-day4#db ,f ,yates' acc\nt x w\ld appe> t ,europe _h be5 f]tiliz$ ) ta/e 9 art & manufactures f ! ,ea/ by ?ree diff]5t r\tes4 ,! ,egyptian civilization1 ) all its ,ea/]n antec$5ts & traditions1 came to u by ! ,m$it]ranean & ! ,adriatic2 ! ,phnicians be+ ! m]*ants :o br\ght x ?r\gh ^? *annels4 ,! ,etruscans1 :o 7 ! p$l>s ( ,europe1 travell$ nor?1 convey+ gold5 ornam5ts & coral1 & br++ back jet & amb]4 ,_! comm]cial track is to be trac$ by ! cont5ts ( tombs on _! pa?4#dc ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #c4 ,/4 ,john4 ,f ,k+ ,alfr$'s ,celtic ,book ( ! ,gospels4 ,lambe? ,palace ,libr>y4 ,secondly1 !re 0 also a ,slavonian r\te f ,ea/]n ,asia1 :i* convey$ ,ori5tal art to ! nor? ( ,europe4 ,celtic art1 :i* c]ta9ly has some?+ ( ! ,indo-,*9ese /yle1 came to u probably by ?is r\te4 ,ano!r bran* ( ! ,celtic family 0 settl$ on ! nor?-ea/]n %ores ( ! ,adriatic4 ,celtic ideas & =ms 9 art probably cross$ ,europe f ?is po9t1#dd & came to u meet+ a cognate influ5ce1#de arriv+ f ! nor?4#df 7,pl4 #c47 ,?irdly1 ,ori5tal ta/e & textiles came f ! ,byzant9e ,empire 9 ! e>ly days ( ,*ri/ianity1 spread+ to ,sicily1 ,italy1 ,spa91 & f9ally to ,france1 ,g]many1 & ,brita94 ,runic art1 :e!r ,sc&9avian or our own pur] ,celtic1 is s rem>kable = its indep5d5ce ( all o!r ,european national & traditional design1 t ,i _c omit a brief notice ( x1 ?\gh we h no asc]ta9$ relics ( any ( its embroid]ies4#dg ,x appe>s to h receiv$1 9 addition to its own univ]sal /amp--evid5tly d]iv$ f "o orig9al s\rce--c]ta9 influ5ces impress$ on x l a seal by ea* c\ntry ?r\gh :i* x fl[$4#dh ,:]ev] ! ,runes are c>v$ 9 /one1 or work$ on bronze1 gold1 silv]1 ivory1 or wood1 or pa9t$ 9 _! spl5did illum9ations 7pl4 #d71 ! involv$ s]p5t1 :i* 0 ! sign ( _! fai?1 appe>s1 sometimes cov]$ ) ,runic inscriptions2 & ?is inscrib$ s]p5t1 lat]1 is tw9$ r\nd or heap$ at ! foot ( ! peculi> ,sc&9avian-%ap$ cross1 ! type ( conv]sion4 ,! s]p5t 0 sometimes alt]$ into ! p>tial semblance ( a f\r-foot$ animal1 ! body & tail be+ l5g!n$ & tw9$1 & sometimes split1 to give a new turn to ! patt]n4 7,fig4 #c47 ,all ^! zoomorphic patt]ns1 z well z ! human figures se5 9 ! ,book ( ,kells1 ! missal at ,lambe?1 & ! ,l9disf>ne ,book 7:i* is1 h[ev]1 m ,engli% 9 its /yle71 are yet ( an ,indo-,*9ese type2 ! wick]-"w motives (t5 replac+ ! involv$ s]p5t design4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,celtic ,zoomorphic patt]n4 ,! ,paganism ( our own ,celtic art1 :5 x appe>s1 is an int]polation betwe5 our fir/ & second ,*ri/ian conv]sions1 & 0 br\ght to u 9 ! incursions ( ! ,vik+s ov] ,scotl& & into ,engl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,page f ! ,l9disf>ne ,,mss4 ,briti% ,museum ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #e4 ,silv] b[l f ,pale/r9a4 ,ganneau4 ,j\rnal ,asiatique1 ,c\pe de ,pale/r9a4 #ahhj4 ,our k ( _! advanc$ & mo/ s+ul> art comes out ( _! tombs1 9 :i* ! w>rior 0 laid ) all 8 arms & 8 horse & 8 preci\s possessions1 spl5didly clo!d accord+ to 8 degree--9 ! belief t he w\ld ne$ !m aga9 9 a future _w4 ,?is nor!rn tradition 0 s long-liv$1 t ,fr$]ick ,casimir1 a knight ( ! ,teutonic ,ord]1 0 buri$ ) 8 sword & 8 horse at ,treves1 9 #agha4di ,greek embroid]ies we c p]fectly appreciate1 by /udy+ ,hope's ,co/umes ( ! ,anci5ts1 & ! works ( ,mill+5 & o!rs2 also ! fictile vases 9 ! ,briti% ,museum & else:]e4 ,on ^! are depict$ ! ,hell5ic gods1 ! w>s1 & ! home life ( ! ,greeks4 ,! work$ or wov5 patt]ns on _! drap]ies are inf9itely v>i$1 & range ov] _m c5turies ( design1 & !y are almo/ always beautiful4 ,x is melan*oly to h to confess t 9 ?is1 z 9 all _! art1 ! ,greek ta/e is inimitable2 yet we may pr(it by ! lessons x tea*es u4 ,^! are3 v>iety )\t r$undancy2 grace )\t affectation2 simplicity )\t pov]ty2 ! appropriate1 ! h>moni\s1 & ! s]5e1 r ?an t :i* is a/oni%+1 pa9ful1 or awe-inspir+4 ,^! pr9ciples 7 c>ri$ into ! smalle/ arts1 & we c trace !m 9 ! %ap+ ( a cup or ! decoration ( a mantle1 z 9 ! frieze ( ! ,p>!non4 ,hom] makes con/ant m5tion ( ! wom5's "w4 ,p5elope's web is (t5e/ quot$4 ,?is 0 a %r\d = h] ,fa!r-9-law4 ,ulysses br\ght home a l>ge collection ( f9e embroid]$ g>m5ts1 contribut$ by 8 fair ho/esses dur+ 8 travels4 ,pallas ,a!ne patroniz$ ! craft ( ! embroid]]s2 & ! sacr$ peplos :i* rob$ h] /atue1 & 0 r5ew$ e ye>1 0 embroid]$ by noble maid5s1 "u ! sup]9t5d5ce ( a prie/ess ( h] temple4 ,x repres5t$ ! battles ( ! gods & ! giants 7fig4 #d71 till ! portraits ( liv+ m5 7 pr(anely introduc$ into ! design4 ,! new peplos 0 c>ri$ to ! temple1 float+ l a flag1 9 procession ?r\gh ! city4 ,! goddess to :om ! ,greeks gave ! protection ( ?is art 0 wise z well z accompli%$1 & knew t x 0 good = wom5 rev]5tly to approa* art by pa9t+ ) _! ne$les4 ,%e always 0 se5 9 embroid]$ g>m5ts1 & work$ z well z wove !m h]self4 ,%e appe>$ to ,ulysses 9 ! /ead+ ( ,eumu1 ! sw9eh]d1 z a woman tall & fair1 & skilful 9 spl5did h&iwork4#ej ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,pallas ,a!ne attir$ 9 ! sacr$ peplos4 7,pana!naic ,vase1 ,briti% ,museum47 ,hom] nev] tires ( prais+ ! wom5's "w1 & ! *e/s ( spl5did g>m5ts laid up 9 ! treasure-h\ses4#ea ,hel5 gave ( h] "w to ,telema*us3 ,hel51 ! fair lady1 /ood by ! c(f] :]e9 7 h] robes ( curi\s ne$lework :i* %e h]self _h wr\ght4 ,!n ,hel51 ! fair lady1 lift$ x out1 ! wide/ & mo/ beautifully embroid]$ ( all--& x %one l a />2 & ?is %e s5t z a gift to 8 future wife4#eb ,semp]'s !ory is1 t ! "o *ief import ( ,ori5tal /yle be+ embroid]ies1 !re=e ! hang+s & dresses arriv+ f ,asia gave ! poetic ,greek ! motives = 8 art1 8 civilization1 8 leg5ds1 & 8 gods4#ec ,?is may or may n be2 !re is no d\bt t !y influ5c$ !m4#ed ,bttig] accord+ly believes t ,hom]'s descriptions ( beautiful dress & furni%+s are d]iv$ f1 or at lea/ influ5c$ by1 :at he _h le>nt ( ! ,babylonian & ,*aldean embroid]ies4 ,?is is v probable1 & w\ld acc\nt = 8 poetical design on ! %ield ( ,a*illes1 9 :i* 8 own inspiration dictat$ ! possibilities ( ! !n practis$ arts ( ,asia1 ( :i* ! fame & occasional glimpses 7 already drift+ we/w>d4 7,plate #e47 ,! description ( ! %ield ( ,a*illes is z foll[s3 ,hephai/os1 ! lame god1 ?rew bronze t we>e? n1 into ! fire2 & t91 & preci\s gold & silv]4 ,he fa%ion$ ! %ield great & /rong1 ) five folds 7or circles7 9 ! %ield itself4 ,!n wr\ght he ! e>? & ! sea1 & ! unwe>y+ sun1 & ! moon wax+ to its full1 & ! signs1 e "o :]e) ! heav5s are cr[n$4 ,also he fa%ion$ !re9 two cities ( mortal m52 & "h 7 m>riage fea/s1 & brides l$ home by ! blaze ( tor*es--"y m5 :irl+ 9 ! dance1 & ! wom5 /&+ ea* at h] door m>vell+4 ,!n a /reet fight1 & ! eld]s sitt+ 9 judgm5t4 ,! o!r city 0 be+ besieg$2 & !re is a wond]ful description ( ! battle f\ght on ! riv] banks1 & ,/rife1 ,tumult1 & ,dea? p]sonifi$1 & m+l+ 9 ! fight4 ,!n he set 9 ! %ield ! lab\rs ( ! husb&man4 ,?is is s exquisitely beautiful t ) difficulty ,i refra9 f quot+ x all4 ,he wr\ght !reon a h]d ( k9e ) upright horns1 & ! k9e 7 fa%ion$ ( gold & t91 & h]dsm5 ( gold 7 foll[+ aft] !m4 ,also did ! glori\s lame god devise a danc+-place l unto t :i* once1 9 wide ,knosos1 ,daidalos wr\ght = ,ariadne ( ! lovely tresses4 ,!re 7 y\?s danc+ & maid5s ( co/ly woo+1 _! h&s ^u _! wai/s4 ,& n[ w\ld !y run r\nd ) deft feet exce$+ly lightly--& n[ w\ld !y run 9 l9es to meet ea* o!r4 ,& a great company /ood r\nd ! lovely dance 9 joy2 & among !m a div9e m9/rel 0 mak+ music on 8 lyre2 & ?r\gh ! mid/ ( !m1 z he began 8 /ra91 two tumbl]s :irl$4 ,also he set !re9 ! great might ( ! ,riv] ( ,ocean1 ar\nd ! utmo/ rim ( ! cunn+ly-fa%ion$ %ield4#ee ,!re is1 inde$1 e pro( t ,greek art 0 ! jo9t product ( ! ,egyptian & ,assyrian civilizations4 ,_! amalgamation gave bir? to ! ar*aic /yle1 /ruggl+ to express ! /r5g? & ! beauty ( man--half h]oic1 half div9e4 ,gradually1 all ! surr\nd+ decorations ( life assum$ z a gov]n+ pr9ciple & motive1 ! wor? ( noble beauty4 ,! ,greeks 7 ! fir/ arti/s4 ,!y broke away f ! anci5t trammels ( cu/om>y =ms1 & replac$ law ) lib]ty ( ?\ght1 & tradition ) poetry4 ,!y de/roy$ no old ideas1 b !y select$1 appropriat$1 & evok$ beauty f e s\rce4 ,f ! great days ( ,a!ns we may date ! mom5t :5 mat]ials became entirely subs]vi5t to art1 & ! m9ds ( individual m5 7 /amp$ on _! works & dat$ !m4 ,phases inde$ foll[$ ea* o!r1 %[+ ! l9ks ( tradition :i* /ill b\nd m5's m9ds toge!r to a c]ta9 ext5t1 & =m$ ! g5]al /yle ( ! day4 ,yet !re 0 9 art f t "t--life1 sometimes dea?1--b !n a resurrection4 ,x appe>s f classical writ]s t ab\t #cjj ,b4,c4 ,greek art _h ?r[n itself into _m new =ms4 ,pa9t+1 = example1 _h tri$ all !mes except+ l&scapes4 ,we are told t )9 ! space ( #aej ye>s ! art _h pass$ ?r\gh e te*nical /age2 f ! t9t$ pr(ile sy/em ( ,polygnotus to ! prop] pictorial sy/em ( natural sc5es1 compos$ ) natural backgr\nds2 & ,peiraikos is nam$ z an arti/ ( g5re--a pa9t] ( b>b]s & cobbl]s1 boo?s1 asses1 eatables1 & su*-l reali/ic subjects4#ef ,i suppose !re is no d\bt t all ! ,romans knew or felt ( art 0 borr[$ directly or indirectly f ,greece1#eg fir/ ?r\gh ,phnician & p]haps ,etruscan s\rces1 & f9ally by conque/4 ,ev]y?+ we h ( _! art %[s _! imitation ( ,grecian models4 ,_! embroid]ies w\ld c]ta9ly h %[n ! same impress4 ,greece--h]self cru%$ & demoraliz$--ev5 z late z ! ,ea/]n ,empire gave to ,rome ! fa%ion ( ! ,byzant9e ta/e1 :i* %e at once adopt$1 & x 0 call$ ! ,romanesque4 ,?is /yle1 :i* 0 p>tly ,arab1 /ill prevails 9 ,ea/]n ,europe1 hav+ clung to ! ,greek ,*ur*4 ,9 h] be/ days1 ,roman poetry1 ar*itecture1 & decorative arts 7 ,greek ( ,greece1 imitat+ its highe/ types1 b nev] creat+4 ,x is surely all[able to quote "h "o ( ,virgil's ,hom]ic e*oes1 :i* t\*es ^u our especial subject1-- ,m\rnful at he>t at t supreme f>ewell1 ,&roma*e br+s robes ( bord]'d gold2 ,a ,phrygian cloak1 too1 = ,ascanius4 ,& yield+ n ! palm 9 c\rtesy1 ,loads him ) wov5 treasures1 & ?us speaks3 ',take ^! gifts1 too1 to s]ve z monum5ts ,( my h&-lab\r1 boy2 s may !y be> ,_! witness to ,&roma*e's long love1 ,! wife ( ,hector3--take !m1 ^! la/ gifts ,?y k9dr$ c be/[2 9 ?is sad _w ,sole image left ( my ,a/yanax6'#eh ,x is sad to m>k h[ n only ! ref9em5ts ( ta/e1 b ev5 ! guid+ pr9ciples ( art1 7 gradually lo/ 9 ! humiliation ( a conqu]$ p1 ! dulness & disc\ragem5t :i* foll[$ on ! expatriation or de/ruction ( _! accumulat$ treasures1 & ! det]ioration ( ! ,greek arti/ & artisan1 c>ri$ prison]s to ,rome1 & settl$ !re because x 0 ! seat ( luxury & empire4 ,z ! captive ,jews hung _! h>ps on ! will[-trees by ! wat]s ( ,babylon1 & refus$ to s+1 s ,greek g5ius succumb$1 weigh$ d[n by ,roman *a9s4 ,x sick5$ & di$ 9 exile4 ,late ,roman art rem9ds u ( ! art ( ,etruria 9 its ar*aic days1 except t ! fre%ness & promise are want+1 & t ! "o 0 9 its fir/1 ! o!r its second *ildhood4 ,be=e ent]+ on ! subject ( ,*ri/ian art1 ,i mu/ aga9 ref]1 h[ev] briefly1 to ! ,ea/]n orig9 ( all art4 ,x is evid5t t ?is _h always fl[$ 9 /reams ( _m types f t high wat]%$ ( ,c5tral ,asia1 :]e our human race is said to h be5 creat$1 & :5ce all wisdom & k h emanat$4 ,9 ! image ( ! ,creator1 man issu$ f !nce1 end[$ ) ! gift ( ! creative p[]4 ,wave aft] wave ( fre% & app>5tly diff]+ nationalities foll[$ ea* o!r2 p>tially subm]g+ ^? t _h gone be=e1 & spread+ till x _h rea*$ ! fur!/ %ores ( ! ,nor!rn seas & ! ,atlantic1 & encircl$ ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,!y all foll[$ ! same c\rse f ea/ to we/4 ,! ,greek civilization 0 inde$ s dazzl+ & /rong1 t x light$ ! _w all ar\nd2 & ,india1 ,p]sia1 & ,assyria felt its influ5ce reflect$ back on its old ,asian cradle4 ,b f ! same high wat]%$#ei fl[$ o!r tribal types t[>ds ,*9a1 ,java1 & ,japan1 t _h no aff9ity ) any we/]n civilization2 & :ile ! ,assyrian1 ,p]sian1 ,indian1 & ,mongolian /yles mix$ & ov]lapp$ s ne> _! s\rces1 t x is sometimes h>dly possible to reason out & classify _! resemblances & _! diff]5ces1 ! tribes fl[+ ,ea/w>d turn$ aside & w5t _! own way1 & h rema9$ till n[ p]fectly di/9ct4#fj ,9 spite ( _! mat*less dext]ity 9 ! manipulation ( _! mat]ials1 ! inf9ite v>iety ( _! /it*es1 & exquisite f9i% 9 execution1 c>ry+ out to ! utmo/ po9t ! int5d$ effect1 yet ,*9ese & ,japanese textile art diff]s 9 its inn] pr9ciples f all our accept$ canons ( ta/e2 s t _! want ( h>mony1 & sometimes _! absurdity1 is a puzzle ( :i* we _c f9d ! key4 ,?is ,i h already allud$ to 7p4 #c74 ,i purposely avoid ! que/ions sugge/$ by ,*9ese art4 ,! imm5se antiquity x claims _c be all[$ )\t hesitation4 ,m4 ,t]ri5 de la ,c\p]ie1 h[ev]1 believes t he has f\nd ! actual po9t ( dep>ture ( ,*9ese civilization1 & he consid]s x to be an e>ly (f%oot f ,babylon4#fa ,he supports 8 !ory on l+ui/ic gr\nds1 & we mu/ anxi\sly wait to see if x is corroborat$ by fur!r rese>*es into ! e>lie/ records ( ! ar*aic ,*9ese lit]ature4 ,b immobility 9 art is a ,*9ese *>act]i/ic1 & no national cataclysms seem to h di/urb$ x4 ,! olde/ specim5s kn[n are v l ! mo/ mod]n4 ,yet an adept1 le>n$ 9 ,*9ese art1 c detect ! signs :i* m>k its diff]5t epo*s4 ,9 ?is !y diff] f ! ,japanese1 :o1 add$ to _! inh]it$ exquisite appreciation ( natural beauty1 h a p[] ( assimilation t might lead 9 "t to _! possess+ a s*ool ( art :i*1 be+ really orig9al1 might become ! /yle ( ! future4 ,! civilization ( ,japan is n old] ?an ! fif? c5tury ,a4,d41 & 0 probably !n import$ f ,corea4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ specim5s we "k ( _! art are embroid]$ religi\s pictures by ! son ( a ,mikado ,%olokutaiski1 :o 0 9 ! sev5? c5tury ! great apo/le ( ,buddhism 9 ,japan2 & ! next e>lie/ works are by ! fir/ nun1 ,honi1 9 ! eigh? c5tury4 ,we h ,european "w z old1 & x is mo/ int]e/+ to comp>e ! diff]5ces ( _! /yles & /it*es4 ,we mu/ n[ return to ! beg9n+ ( our era1 :5 we f9d ,greek ta/e1 su* z x 01 /ill influ5c+ & col\r+ art 9 ,italy1 & ?r\gh\t ,europe1 ,asia1 & ,africa1 :]ev] ,roman colonies 7 f\nd$1 till ! eigh? c5tury4 ,x di$ h>d2 b by t "t ! b>b>ians _h p\r$ f ! ea/ & nor? 9 successive waves1 & conqu]$ & suppress$ ! classical civilization4 ,no?+ is s puzzl+ 9 textile art z ! mixture ( /yles dur+ ! fir/ #ajjj ye>s ,a4,d4 ,! ,grco-,roman1 ! ,byzant9e1 & ! ,egyptian1 cross$ by ! ,arabian1 ,p]sian1 & ,indian /yles1 7 reproduc$ 9 ! ,sicilian looms4 ,c]ta9 /ock patt]ns1 su* z ! recl9+ h>es or fawns1 z we f9d !m on ! ,%i%ak pall1 or t ( ! ,tree ( ,life1 approa*$ by wor%ipp+ m5 or animals1 orig9at+ 9 ,assyrian art1 are employ$ z bord]s1 & fill up vacant spaces4 ,! in=mation collect$ f ! tombs 9 ! ,crimea imm$iately prec$+ our era1 is supplem5t$ by ! v>iety 9 /yle & mat]ials f ! ,fay\m1 n[ plac$ by ,h]r ,graf's*5 9 ! ,museum at ,vi5na4 ,*ri/ian art1 :i* began 9 ,byzantium1 gradually grew1 & =m$ itself into ! ,go?ic1#fb :i* 9 "t ov]came ! g5]al *aos ( /yle4 ,ea/]n art cont9u$ to fl[ we/w>d1 modify+ & sugge/+4 ,:5 ! ,phnicians & ,c>?ag9ians _h laid d[n _! anci5t comm]cial sceptre1 x 0 tak5 up by ! ,greeks1 & lat] by ! ,v5etians & ,g5oese1 always trad+ ) ,asiatic goods4 ,!n ! arts ( ! ,sc&9avians#fc & ( ! ,celts 7:o 7 ! weav]s71 ?\gh b>b>ic1 /ill reta9$ & spread c]ta9 ,ori5tal traditions4 ,luxury 0 born 9 ,babylon1 & ,p]sia became its nurse1 :5ce all its glories & ref9em5ts spread ov] ! _w4 ,b if luxury 0 ,babylonian1 art 0 ,greek4 ,alas6 ! love ( luxury surviv$ 9 ,rome ! ta/e = art4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #f4 ,! ,empress ,!odora4 ,mosaic at ,rav5na4 ,*ur* ( ,san4 ,vitale4 ,at ,rav5na we le>n mu* ( ! e>ly ,*ri/ian p]iod f ! mosaics 9 ! *ur*es4 ,! ,empress ,!odora & h] ladies appe> to be clo!d 9 ,indian %awl /uffs4 7,plate #f47 ,^!1 ( c\rse1 _h drift$ into ,rome1 z !y _h long done into ! ,greek isl&s1 by ! ,r$ ,sea or by l& ?r\gh ,tyre4 ,ezekiel 7#eij ,b4,c47 m5tions ! ,indian trade ?r\gh ,ad54 ,!odora's dress has a deep bord] ( gold1 embroid]$ ) classical w>riors pursu+ ea* o!r ) swords4#fd ,works enri*$ ) preci\s /ones & pe>ls n[ appe> = ! fir/ "t 9 ,european art1 & te/ify to its ,ori5tal impress4 ,! ,byzant9e ,*ri/ian /yle 0 ess5tially ! art ( mosaic4 ,its patt]ns = ar*itecture or dress1 easily squ>e !mselves into little comp>tm5ts1 sugge/+ ! /it*es ( c\nt$ embroid]ies 7opus pulv9>ium74 ,9 ! beg9n+ ( ! f\r? c5tury1 :5 ,greek influ5ce 0 /ill langui%+1 we may date ! comm5cem5t ( ecclesia/ical art4 ,x 0 a new bir?1 & _h to /ruggle ?r\gh an infancy ( ne>ly #hjj ye>s1 ignor+1 or unconsci\s ( all rules ( draw+1 col\r+1 & design4 ,outl9es fill$ 9 ) flat surfaces ( col\rs repres5t$ aga9 ! art ( pa9t+1 :i* _h return$ to ar*aic types1 & 9 no way diff]$ f ! ess5tial prop]ties ( ! art ( acu p+]e or ne$lework1 :i* 0 9 ! same phase--be+1 =tunately = x1 t to :i* x 0 be/ suit$4 ,!re=e f9e works ( art 7 !n execut$ by ! ne$le1 ( :i* a v few survive1 ei!r 9 description or copi$ into m la/+ mat]ials2 & %[+ t1 ) ! m9or arts ( mosaic & illum9ation1 x 0 9 a /ate ( high] p]fection ?an ! great] arts1 :i* till ! twelf? c5tury 7 all b 9 abeyance4 ,9 discuss+ textile art1 ,i am oblig$ to pass ov] a "p ( ! d>k ages1 & to approa* ! p]iod :5 x mu/ be /udi$ *iefly 9 ,sicily1 :i* became ! half-way h\se on ! high road to ! ,ea/1 & lat] ! re/+-place ( ! ,crusad]s to & f ! ,holy ,l&4 ,sicily1 :i* _h succe$$ to ,con/ant9ople z be+ ! great manufactur+ m>t dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 0 9 ! h&s ( ! ,moors1 ! orig9 & s\rce ( all ,european ,go?ic textile art4 ,yet ev5 at ,pal]mo & ,mess9a ?is art 0 long controll$ by ! traditions ( ,greece1 anci5t & mod]n1 :ile f]tiliz$ by ,p]sian & ,indian =ms & traditional symbolisms4 ,! next ,european phase 0 ! ,go?ic4#fe ,?is 0 ,arab & ,moresque /eep$ 9 nor!rn ideas2 & f9d+ its cong5ial soil1 x grew into ! mo/ spl5did1 ?\ghtful1 & f9i%$ /yle1 f> transc5d+ any?+ t x _h borr[$ f ea/]n or s\!rn s\rces4 ,all its traditions 7 c>ri$ out 9 ! small] decorative arts--mosaics1 ivories1 & metal works2 &1 la/ & n lea/1 beautiful embroid]ies1 to adorn ! alt>s & ! dresses ( mon>*s & nobles4 7,plate #g47 ,:5 ta/e 0 imp]fect or decl9$1 !n ! decorations 7 all rude1 & ! embroid]ies %>$ 9 ! g5]al rud5ess or pov]ty2 b z ^! crafts rose aga91 add+ to !mselves grace & beauty by /udy & exp]i5ce1 !n ne$lework 9 ,engl&1 ,g]many1 ,france1 ,italy1 & ,spa9 grew & fl\ri%$4#ff ,illu/ration3 ,italian embroid]y ,,xv4 ,c5tury ,k5s+ton ,museum ,illu/ration3 ,italian orphreys ,,xvi4 ,c5tury ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum ,illu/ration3 ,orphreys ,fr5* & ,spani% ,,xvi4 ,c5tury ,!n came ! ,re=mation1 :i*1 9 ,g]many & ,engl& especially1 gave a bl[ to ! arts :i* _h res]v$ _! be/ ef=ts = ! ,*ur*2 & ! *ange ( /yle effect$ by ! ,r5aissance 0 n suit$ to ! solemnity ( ecclesia/ical decoration4 ,! /yles ( ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5tury embroid]ies are bett] adapt$ = secul> purposes2 ?\gh _! extreme beauty z ar*itectural ornam5t 9 ,italy1 reconciles "o to _! want ( religi\s "*1 on ! pr9ciple t x 0 all[able to d$icate to ! ,*ur* all t 9 its day 0 brighte/ & be/4 7,plate #h47 ,we possess mu* dome/ic embroid]y ( ! ,r5aissance :i* is exce$+ly beautiful--,italian1 ,spani%1 & ,g]man4 ,engli% ne$lework _h lo/ its pre/ige f ! "t ( ! ,re=mation4#fg ,! be/ ef=ts ( ! ,g]man s*ools ( embroid]y prec$$ ! ,re=mation1 :ile ^? ( ,belgium nev] lo/ _! excell5ce1#fh & /ill hold _! high position among ! work]s ( gold5 orphreys4 ,9 ,italy !y always reta9$ mu* ( ! classical elem5t4 ,probably ! anci5t frescoes :i* s]v$ z models 7 orig9ally pa9t$ by ,greek arti/s & _! ,roman imitators4 ,?is /yle fl\ri%$ = a hundr$ ye>s4 ,! ,fr5* adopt$ & modifi$ x4 ,! decorative /yle ( t p]iod is sometimes call$ ! ,arabesque1 & sometimes ! ,grotesque4 ,! fa%ion 0 really copi$ f ! excavat$ palaces & tombs ( ! be/ ,roman era4 ,raphael admir$1 & caus$ 8 pupils to imitate & copy !m2 & !y influ5c$ all decorative art = a consid]able p]iod4 ,z long z beautiful =ms ( fl[]s1 fruit1 birds1 & animals 7 adh]$ to1 ! ,arabesque 0 a *>m+ decoration1 gay & brilliant2 b :5 ! beautiful 0 set aside1 & ! ugly ideas 7 reproduc$1 ! /yle became ! ,grotesque1 :i* ^w only means ! grotto1 cave1 or tomb /yle1 & is z undescriptive to u z ! ^w ,arabesque1 :i* has no?+ to d ) ! ,arabs or _! arts4 ,x w\ld appe> t if ! beautiful only is p]missible 9 decorative art1 & t if )\t beauty !re is no reason t x %\ld exi/ at all1 !n ! ,grotesque %\ld n be all[$1 except z a s*]zo ( ! p5cil2 to be relegat$1 l all o!r c>icatures1 to ! portfolio4 ,a grotesque is some?+ />tl+1 laughable1 p]haps ridicul\s4 ,a woman ) ! head ( a goose & a fl[]y tail may be a symbolical1 b x nev] c be an agreeable object4 ,:5 ! idea convey$ is a great "o1 !n x is excusable4 ,! ,n9evite bull1 ) a human head & five legs1 is a grotesque1 b x is also a symbol ( maje/y & might4 ,a ,satyr is a grotesque1 b he has be5 s long record$ & accept$ t he has ceas$ to surprise u2 & ! ,greeks sp5t s mu* g5ius 9 mak+ him a graceful creature1 t he has become picturesque1 if n beautiful4 ,arabesques & ,grotesques h n[ s long prevail$ 9 decoration1 t we h ceas$ to criticize !m on pr9ciple1 & accept !m gratefully1 9 proportion to ! gay fancy & retic5t g5ius ( ! design]4 ,mo/ ,arabesques are1 9 fact1 only graceful nons5se4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #i4 ,spani% ,cov]let1 f ,goa4 ,velvet & gold1 ,plt]esque /yle1 sev5te5? c5tury4 ,vitruvius 7writ+ fir/ c5tury ,b4,c47 says1 t 9 8 "t1 on ! cov]+ ( ! walls 7 pa9t$ r mon/rosities ?an images ( kn[n ?+s4 ,?us1 in/ead ( columns y w see re$s ) crisp foliage1 & c&le/icks support+ temples2 & on ! top ( ^! !re are rods & twi/$ ornam5ts1 & 9 ! volutes s5seless little figures sitt+ !re2 likewise fl[]s ) figures gr[+ out ( _! calyxes4 ,"h a human head1 !re an animal's4#fi ,evid5tly ,vitruvius did n approve ( grotesques1 & 8 contempor>y criticism is mo/ valuable & amus+4 ,9 ! ,l\is ,quatorze p]iod1 a species ( vegetable grotesque 0 ! fa%ion1 f :i* we suff] ev5 n[1 & x des]ves c5sure4 ,leaves & fl[]s ( diff]5t plants 7 made to gr[ f ! same /em1 z only artificial fl[]s c\ld d4 ,! ,greeks introduc$ into _! decorations sprays & wrea?s ( bay1 olive1 oak1 ivy1 & v9e1 ) _! fruits2 :i* are exquisitely compos$ & c>efully /udi$ f nature4 ,x is true t !y sometimes inv5t$ fl[]s ( diff]5t %apes1 foll[+ ea* o!r on ! same /em1 & untrammell$ by any natural laws4 ,^! classical freaks ( fancy are s graceful t _! want ( tru? does n %ock u1 b !y are m safely copi$ ?an imitat$4 ,! ,r5aissance 0 p>ticul>ly m>k$ 9 ,spa9 & ,portugal by ! embroid]ies :i* ! latt] drew f _! ,indian possessions 9 ,goa1 :il/ we 9 ,engl& 7 s$ul\sly ?ru/+ f our %ores any beautiful ,indian textiles t we imag9$ c\ld injure our own home manufactures4 ,x 01 consequ5tly1 ! wor/ phase ( ne$lework ) u1 :ile ,spani% & ,portuguese embroid]ies ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies are especially f9e1 _! designs be+ ,european1 & _! ne$lework ,ori5tal4 ,_! ,r5aissance1 :i* w5t by ! "n ( ! ,plt]esque1 is a /yle ap>t4 7,pl4 #i47 ,! reason ( its "n is t x seems to h be5 orig9ally int5d$ =1 & is be/ suit$ to1 ! %apes & decorations ( gold & silv] plate4 ,x is extremely ri* & ornate2 n s appropriate to ar*itecture z to ! small] arts1 & want+1 p]haps1 ! simplicity :i* gives dignity4 ,! /yle call$ ,l\is ,quatorze foll[+ on ! ,r5aissance 9 ,g]many1 ,engl&1 ,spa91 ,italy1 & ,france1 assum$ 9 ea* ( ^! c\ntries di/+ui%+ *>act]i/ics1 into :i* we h n "t to ent] n[4 ,9 ?is /yle ,france took ! lead & appropriat$ x1 & rightly nam$ x aft] ! magnific5t mon>* :o fo/]$ x4 ,?is 0 a spl5did era2 & its furniture & wall decorations1 dress1 plate1 & books %9e 9 all ! f]tile ri*ness & grace ( ,fr5* arti/ic +5uity4#gj ,! new /yle ass]t$ itself ev]y:]e1 & remodell$ e art2 b ! long reign ( ,l\is ,quatorze gave ! fa%ion "t to wane & *ange4 ,"u ,l\is ,,xv4 ! defects increas$ & ! beauties dim9i%$4 ,! f9e heavy bord]s 7 brok5 up into fragm5t>y =ms2 all fl[ & /r5g? 7 elim9at$2 & :at rema9$ ( ! ,l\is ,quatorze /yle became1 "u its next phase1 only rem>kable = ! sp>kl+ prett9ess :i* is inh]5t 9 all ,fr5* art4 ,9 ,italy ?is v ornate /yle 0 di/+ui%$ z ! ,sette-c5to1 & 0 a *a/5$ imitation or appropriation ( ! ,spani% ,plt]esque & ! ,fr5* ,l\is ,quatorze4 ,9 ,g]many x 0 a decid$ heavy copy ( bo?1 ( :i* !re are spl5did examples 9 ! adornm5t ( ! ,g]man palaces1 royal & episcopal4 ,9 ,engl& ! ,cont95tal ta/e 0 fa9tly reflect$ dur+ ! reign ( ,que5 ,anne & ! fir/ ,georges2 b except 9 ! *>act]i/ic uphol/]y ( ! ,*ipp5dales1 & "o or two palaces1 su* z ,bl5heim & ,ca/le ,h[>d1 we did n produce mu* t 0 orig9al 9 ! /yle ( t day4 ,"u ,l\is ,,xv41 ,b\*] & ,watteau1 9 ,france1 produc$ designs t 7 well suit$ to tape/ries & embroid]ies4 ,all ! hea!n gods1 ) ,cupids1 g>l&s1 float+ ribbons1 cr[ns1 & cyph]s 7 ev]y:]e c>v$1 gild$1 & work$4 ,x 0 ! visible tide ( ! frivolity 9 :i* poor ,m>ie ,anto9ette 0 dr[n$2 ?\gh be=e ! ,revolution %e _h some:at simplifi$ ! =ms ( decoration1 & /raight l9es in/ead ( curves1 & delicacy r ?an spl5d\r1 _h sup]s$$1 at lea/ at c\rt1 ! extravagant ri*ness ( palatial furniture4 ,?is 0 foll[$ by ! ,revolution2 & !n came ! attempt at classical sev]ity 7s contr>y to ! ,fr5* nature7 :i* ! ,republic affect$4#ga ,dress 0 adorn$ ) embroid]$ spots & ,etruscan bord]s1 & ! ladies wore diadems1 & tri$ to be z l z possible to ! ,greek wom5 pa9t$ 9 fictile art4 ,napoleon attempt$ a dress :i* 0 suppos$ to be ,roman at 8 coronation4 ,trophies 7 wov5 & embroid]$1 & ! honeysuckle1 key1 & egg & an*or patt]ns 7 ev]y:]e4 ,) ! fall ( ! ,empire ! classical ta/e collaps$1 & ! ,egyptian1 ,greek1 & ,roman furniture 7 h&$ ov] to hotels & lodg+-h\ses4 ,9 mo/ ( ! palaces on ! ,cont95t an ap>tm5t is /ill to be se51 furni%$ 9 ?is /yle4 ,x 0 ! necess>y tribute ( flatt]y to ! great conqu]or1 :o 9 t "* inhabit$ s _m ( !m = a %ort "t4 ,b !re 0 no sign ( ! /yle be+ tak5 up en?usia/ically any:]e out ( ,france4 ,aft] ! fall ( ! ,empire1 all pret5ce ( /yle 0 9 abeyance1 & x 0 !n gradually replac$ by a g5]al crav+ = ! antique1 ! rococo1 & f9ally ! b>oc1 z ! outcome ( t "p ( a g5tleman's education call$ ! gr& t\r4 ,e "o b\ght up old furniture2 ,italy & ,spa9 7 ransack$2 & =eign works ( all ages 7 add$ to ! h]$it>y h\se furni%+s4 ,e weal?y home became a museum4 ,n[ ! num]\s exhibitions ( ! la/ few ye>s1 br++ toge!r ! works ( all ,europe & o!r cont95ts1 h enabl$ u to cont9ue to collect & comp>e & furni%1 )\t any ref]5ce to a p>ticul> /yle4 ,meantime ,"y ,engl& _h become /hetic4 ,bohemianism 0 ! fa%ion1 & ! /udio _h to be furni%$ z a picturesque l\nge3--ragg$ tape/ries = backgr\nds2 antique *airs & bits ( col\r z cu%ions & drap]ies2 %9y e>!nw>e pots to hold a fl[] & to cat* a high light4 ,all ^! bridg$ ! space betwe5 ! new /heticism & ! old family museums2 & f _! comb9ation arose ! /yle call$ by c\rtesy ! ,que5 ,anne--a /yle :i* c be br\ght )9 ! rea* ( ! mo/ mod]ate =tunes4 ,9 humble mansions y w be aw>e ( ! gr\p+ ( ! old pieces ( furniture1 culm9at+ p]haps 9 my gr&mo!r's cab9et1 & h] portrait by ,hog>?2 or my great-gr&fa!r's sword & pi/ols1 :i* he c>ri$ at ,cullod52 & 8 fa!r's clock1 a relic p]haps ( ! ,scot* ,dut*4 ,! ,engli% /yle ( to-day is really a conglom]ate ( ! prec$+ two hundr$ ye>s1 & x is =m$ f ! dbris ( our family life4 ,x belongs mo/ly to ! p]iod ( ! pigtail2 b x /ret*es back1 & includes all t foll[$ ! ,protectorate1 & is !re=e coeval ) ! wig4 ,! "n ( ,que5 ,anne w\ld really d z well z any o!r1 only t ! /yle ( h] reign1 :i* 0 heavy ,l\is ,quatorze1 is look$ ^u ) suspicion1 & nev] admitt$ = imitation4 ,! ,n9ete5? ,c5tury w\ld be a bett] "n1 = x has =m$ itself only )9 ! la/ ?irty ye>s1 9 ! v he>t ( ! c5tury1 & is1 9 fact1 a =tunate result ( prec$+ conditions4 ,x owes its exi/5ce1 z ,i h said1 p>tly to ! ar*ological t5d5cies ( ! day4 ,! maim$ tables & *airs1 :i* _h pa9fully asc5d$ f saloon to b$room1 nurs]y1 & attic1 till !y repos$ 9 ! g>ret 7! ,b$lam ( crazy furniture71 n[ h desc5d$ 9 all ! pre/ige ( antiqu>ian & family int]e/4 ,_! hi/ory is record$2 ! old embroid]ies are re/or$1 nam$1 & hon\r$4 ,:at is n beautiful1 is cr$it$ ) be+ qua9t--! qua9t is m easily imitat$ ?an ! beautiful2 & we h elect$ ?is = ! *>act]i/ic ( our new decorations4 ,to be qua9t1 is really to be funny )\t int5d+ x1 & its claim to prett9ess is its navet1 :i* is sometimes t\*+ z well z amus+3 ?is 0 ! special *>act]i/ic ( ! revival 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,to imitate qua9tness mu/ be a mi/ake 9 art2 z 9 life x is absurd to imitate innoc5ce4 ,! n9ete5? c5tury ,que5 ,anne has its m]its4#gb ,x comb9es simplicity1 room9ess & com=t1 col\r1 light & %ade4 ,s(t col\r+ to h>monize ! new furniture ) ! t5d] t9ts ( ! fad$ qua9tnesses j re/or$ to society2 c>e 9 gr\p+ ev5 ! commone/ objects1 s z to give pleasure to ! eye2 a reviv$ ta/e = embroid]$ in/ead ( wov5 mat]ials1 giv+ scope to ! tal5ts ( ! wom5 ( ! h\se2--all ^! are s mu* ga9$ 9 e-day dome/ic decoration4 ,! poore/ & mo/ trivial arrangem5ts are /riv+ to atta9 to a some?+ arti/ic & agreeable4 ,?is is /ill conf9$ to ! educat$ classes2 b z good & bad alike h to beg9 on ! surface1 & gradually filt] ?r\gh to ! dregs ( society1 we may hope t ! wom5 :o wore ! la/ *ignon & ! la/ cr9ol9e may yet solace _! sordid lives 9 fl[+ or tight wooll5 g>m5ts1 adorn$ ) _! own ne$lework2 & t ! d>k-/a9$ floor ( ! cottage or humble lodg+ w set (f ! %9+ brass kettle1 & ! fl[] 9 a br[n or blue pot1 consci\sly select$ ) a view to ! picturesque1 & enjoy$ accord+ly4 ,f :at we "k1 x w\ld seem t a vital *ange 9 a national /yle is nev] produc$ by ! inspiration ( "o individual g5ius or great orig9al inv5tor4 ,x inv>iably evolves itself sl[ly1 by ! pati5t1 p]si/5t ef=ts ( g5]ations1 poli%+ & t\*+ up ! same motive1 & at la/ rea*+ human p]fection4 ,! annihilation ( a /yle is (t5e/ caus$ by w> pass+ ov] ! l&1 or revolution break+ up ! f\nta9s ( social life1 & swamp+ ! art & ! arti/4 ,b ano!r cause ( su* an ext9ction--p]haps ! sadde/--is t hav+ rea*$ p]fection z f> z x may1 x det]iorates1 sick5s1 corrupts1 & f9ally is ?r[n aside--sup]s$$1 hidd51 & ov]lapp$ by a new] fa%ion2 & ! wor/ & late/ ef=t discr$its 9 ! eyes ( m51 ! spl5did successes t prec$$ its fall4 ,?\gh ! next succe$+ phase may be less wor?y to live ?an ! la/1 yet1 c>ry+ ) x ! fre%ness ( a new spr+1 x is acceptable = ! "t be+4 ,! moral ,i %\ld draw f ?is is1 t y _c =ce /yle2 y may prune1 direct1 & poli% x1 b y mu/ accept t ( y\r day1 & only 9 accordance ) t ta/e c y\r "w be useful4 ,n accept+ x idly or we>ily1 b *e]fully1 on pr9ciple1 seek+ to raise x2 refus+ by ^w or de$ to truckle to ! false1 ! base1 or ! lawless 9 y\r art1 or to act aga9/ ! ackn[l$g$ canons ( good ta/e4 ,n = a mom5t %\ld ambition be *eck$1 b x %\ld always be accompani$ by ! grace ( mode/y4 ,to ! "y decorator or arti/ :o feels ! gl[ ( orig9al design prompt+ him to reject old l9es1 & foll[ 8 own new & p]haps crude ideas1 a few words ( w>n+1 & enc\ragem5t also1 may be ( use4 ,9 art1 z 9 poetry1 we may recognize ! ,psalmi/'s exp]i5ce3 ,my he>t burn$ )9 me1 & at ! la/ ,i spake ) my tongue4 ,9 small z 9 great ?+s1 crude ideas %\ld n be br\ght to ! front4 ,no "o %\ld give 8 ?\ghts to ! _w till 8 he>t has burn$ )9 him1 & he has be5 =c$ to express himself4 ,ano!r wise say+1 ,read y\rself full1 & !n write y\rself empty1 also applies to art4 ,k mu/ fir/ be accumulat$ be=e y c orig9ate4 ,wait till y\r exp]i5ce & y\r ?\ghts insi/ on expression2 !n subject ! express$ idea to cultivat$ criticism1 & pr(it by ! op9ion y w\ld respect if ano!r's "w1 & n y\r own1 7 "u discussion4 ,x is true t ta/e is surpris+ly v>i\s4 ,"s w dislike y\r design1 because its /yle is a reflection ( ! ,go?ic2 ano!r may be object$ to z be+ frivol\sly ,ori5tal-look+ & brilliant1 :]eas ! critic likes only ! sob] & ! dull4 ,few are suffici5tly educat$ to appreciate /yle3 & we _c rule our own by anybody's op9ion2 b we c g5]alize & f9d some?+ t %all be agreeable to all--some?+ approa*+ to a gold5 mean4 ,! arti/ = decoration %\ld be s5sitively alive to any sugge/ion f ! /yle ( t :i* he is to adorn1 rememb]+ ! antec$5t motives ( its =m1 its hi/ory1 & its date4 ,he %\ld try to make 8 new "w h>monize ) ! old2 b ( "o ?+ he may be c]ta9--unless he absolutely copies an old design1 8 own w c>ry ! visible & unmi/akable /amp ( 8 day4 ,ev5 :ile sugge/+ copies ?is difficulty arises--h[ c a p]fect facsimile be obta9$8 ,no reproduction is ev] really exact1 unless ca/ (f by ! hundr$1 /amp$ or pr9t$ by a ma*9e4 ,x has be5 said t ! translator ( a poem adds to1 or takes f ! orig9al1 t :i* he has or has n ( ! same poetical p[]2 & 9 art ! copy requires ! same qualities to guide ! h& t transmits ! orig9al motive to ano!r mat]ial4 ,an arti/ usually c>ries out 8 own ideas f ! fir/ sket* block$ out on ! canvas1 or scribbl$ on ! bit ( wa/e pap]1 to ! la/ f9i%+ t\*4 ,x is1 z f> z x c be 9 human art1 ! visible transcript ( 8 own ?\ght4 ,9 ne$lework ?is c h>dly ev] be4 ,! design]1 :e!r he be ,/4 ,dun/an1 ,pollaiolo1 ,torrigiano1 or ,walt] ,crane1 only executes a draw+ :i* leaves 8 h&s = good1 & is translat$ into embroid]y by ! pati5t ne$lewoman :o simply fills 9 an outl9e1 ignorant ( art1 unappreciative ( its subtleties1 & incapable ( giv+ life & expression1 ev5 :5 %e is aw>e t !y are indicat$ 9 ! orig9al design4 ,?is is almo/ always ! case2 b !re are exceptions4 ,*>lemagne's dalmatic1 = in/ance1 %[s signs ( hav+ be5 ei!r ! "w ( ! arti/ himself1 or else c>ri$ out "u 8 imm$iate sup]vision4 ,,footnotes3 #ae ,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 p4 #bhe4 ,see also *apt] on /it*es 7po/71 p4 #aie4 #af ,"s ( ^! /yles survive2 "s are /ill p]ceptible z traditions or e*oes2 "s h totally disappe>$ 9 our mod]n art1 su* z ! ,primitive or ! ,egyptian4 #ag ,see ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il4 #ah ,! hi/ory ( ,gaul beg9s 9 ! #g?1 & t ( ,brita9 9 ! #a/ c5tury ,b4,c41 :ile ! civilization ( ,egypt dates back to m ?an #djjj ,b4,c42 !re=e ! hi/orical ov]lap is v great4 ,x is probable t a l>ge portion ( ,europe 0 9 its neoli?ic age1 :ile ! scribes 7 compos+ _! records ( w> & comm]ce 9 ! great cities on ! ,nile1 & t ! neoli?ic civilization l+]$ 9 remote regions :ile ! voice ( ,p]icles 0 he>d 9 ,a!ns1 & ! "n ( ,hannibal 0 a t]ror 9 ,italy4--,see ,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 p4 #dha4 #ai ,see *apt] on patt]ns4 #bj ,9 ! ,troad4 #ba ,"s ( ! ,egyptian arts we "k are pre-,hom]ic 7if ,hom] really sang #hjj ,b4,c471 & ,asiatic art 0 !n 9 its highe/ developm5t4 #bb ,see *apt] on /it*es1 cut "w 7po/74 ,?is fun]al t5t is a monum5tal "w1 inasmu* z ! inscription inwr\ght on x gives u ! "n & title ( h] 9 ^: hon\r x 0 made1 & ^: rema9s x cov]$4 ,see ,villi]s ,/ew>t's ,fun]al ,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que54 #bc ,h]odotus1 book ii4 c4 #ahb2 book iii4 c4 #dg 7,rawl9son's ,trans474 ,see ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 xiv4 #bd ,hom] m5tions ,sidonian /uffs & ,phnician skill 7,iliad1 v4 #agj72 also ,sidonian ,embroid]y4 ,ibid4 vi4 #bhg-bie4 #be ,! ,assyrian designs are su* z are n[ /ill work$ at ,b5>es1 & be+ full ( animals1 !y are call$ ,%ikurgah1 or happy hunt+-gr\nds4 ,see ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,india1 p4 #bcf4 ,see also ,plate #d4 #bf ,see ,p]rot & ,*ipiez 7pp4 #gcg-geg72 also ,cl]mont ,ganneau's ,hi/oire de l',art1 ,l',imag]ie ,phnici5ne1 ,plate #a1 pt4 #a4 ,c\pe de ,pale/r9a4 ,he says t c]ta9 sc5es f ! ,%ield ( ,a*illes are lit]ally to be f\nd on ,phnician vases t h come d[n to u--vases ( :i* ,hom] himself mu/ h se5 "s ( analog\s design4 #bg ,hom] speaks ( ,sidonian embroid]ies1 ,iliad1 vi41 #bhg-bie4 #bh ,see ,egyptian fragm5ts 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 & ! specim5s ( ,p]uvian textiles2 & ,reiss & ,/bel's ,necropolis ( ,ancon 9 ,p]u4 #bi ,at ,c]vetri1 ,d5nis' ,etruria1 ed4 #ahgh1 i4 p4 #bfh4 #cj ,! re/less activity ( ! ,phnicians has (t5 help$ to confuse our /hetic k1 & has caus$ ! wa/e ( mu* speculation 9 asc]ta9+ h[ c]ta9 objects ( luxury1 belong+ to di/ant civilizations1 c possibly h arriv$ at ! places :]e we f9d !m4 #ca ,! ,beautiful ,gate ( ! ,temple 0 cov]$ all ov] ) gold4 ,x _h also gold5 v9es above x1 f :i* hung clu/]s ( grapes z tall z a man's height4444 ,x _h gold5 doors ( #ee cubits altitude1 & #af 9 bread?3 b be=e ^! doors !re 0 a veil ( equal l>g5ess ) ! doors4 ,x 0 a ,babylonian curta9 ( blue1 f9e l951 & sc>let & purple2 ( an admixture t 0 truly wond]ful4 ,nor 0 ! mixture )\t its my/ical int]pretation2 b 0 a k9d ( image ( ! univ]se4 ,= by ! sc>let 0 to be enigmatically signifi$ fire2 by ! f9e flax1 ! e>?2 by ! blue1 ! air1 & by ! purple1 ! sea2--two ( !m hav+ _! col\rs = ! f\ndation ( ?is resemblance2 b ! f9e flax & ! purple h _! own orig9 = ?is f\ndation1 ! e>? produc+ ! "o1 & ! sea ! o!r4 ,?is curta9 _h also embroid]$ ^u x all t 0 my/ical 9 ! heav5s except+ ! twelve signs ( ! zodiac1 repres5t+ liv+ creatures4 ,josephus 7,trans4 by ,:i/on71 p4 #hie4 #cb ,see also ,m4 ,e4 ,h>kness & ,/u>t ,poole1 ,assyrian ,life & ,hi/ory1 p4 #ff4 #cc ,! visions ( ,ezekiel & ,/4 ,john rem9d u ( ! composite figures & animals 9 ,n9evite sculptures1 & ! prophetic poetry helps u to int]pret _! symbolism4 #cd ,g4 ,smi?'s ,anci5t ,hi/ory ( ! ,monum5ts1 ,babylonia1 p4 #cc4 ,edit$ by ,sayce4 #ce ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,see ,bronze ,ornam5ts ( ,palace ,gates1 ,balawat1 pl4 ,e #e4 #cf ,see ,aub]ville's ,ornem5t des ,tissus1 pl4 #a4 #cg ,! ,egyptian que5 9 "q 0 "m-9-law to ,%i%ak1 ^: daught] m>ri$ ,solomon4 ,aft] 8 son-9-law's dea?1 ,%i%ak plund]$ ! ,k+'s ,h\se1 & c>ri$ to ,egypt ! gold5 %ields or panels 7#a ,k+s xiv4 #bf74 ,! gold5 vessels w5t to ,babylon lat]1 & ! gold5 c&le/icks to ,rome4 #ch ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood repeat$ly po9ts out t ! ,v$ic 0 ! art t wor%ipp$ & s]v$ nature4 ,! ,puranic is ! ideal & di/ort$4 ,! ,moguls1 ab\t #gjj ,b4,c41 introduc$ _! ugly ,dravidian art4 ,?r\gh ! ,sassanian art ( ,p]sia1 t ( ,india 0 influ5c$4 ,possibly ! v =ms :i* 9 ,india are copi$ f ,assyrian temples & palaces1 may h travell$ fir/ to ,assyria ^u ,indian /uffs & jewell]y 7,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,india1 i4 p4 #bcf74 #ci ,ibid41 p4 #acj 7ed4 #ahhd74 #dj ,ne>*us 7,/rabo1 ,,xv4 i4 #fg7 says t ! p ( ,india _h su* a g5ius = imitation t !y c\nt]feit$ sponges1 :i* !y saw us$ by ! ,mac$onians1 & produc$ p]fect imitations ( ! real object4 ,see ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,india1 ii4 p4 #acc 7ed4 #ahhd74 #da ,ibid41 ii4 p4 #aca 7ed4 #ahhd74 #db ,see ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood1 p4 #abi 7ed4 #ahhd74 ,if ,f]gusson is "r 9 sugge/+ t ! art ( ,c5tral ,am]ica 0 plant$ !re 9 ! ?ird or f\r? c5tury ( our era1 x w\ld1 p]haps1 appe> to h tak5 refuge 9 ,am]ica :5 x 0 driv5 out ( ,india by ! ,sassanians1 & 0 really ,dravidian4 ,he gives to ! ,turanian races all ! m\nd build+s1 z well z ! fylfot or my/ic cross1 & he looks 9 ,c5tral ,india = ! discov]y ( "s rema9s t w give u ! secret ( ! orig9 ( ! ,indo-,aryan /yle4 ,he ?9ks ! ,ar*aic ,dravidian is alli$ ) ! ,*9ese4 ,see ,f]gusson's ,ar*itecture4 #dc ,etruscan & ,indian gold5 ornam5ts1 includ+ ! ,bolla & ! ,tri*9opoly *a9s & coral1 are to be f\nd ?r\gh\t ,sc&9avia & 9 ,irel&4 ,see ,atlas de l',ar*ologie du ,nord1 p> la ,socit ,royale des ,antiquaires du ,nord4 ,cop5hag51 #aheg4 #dd ,arrian tells u ( ! ,celts1 a p ne> ! ,great ,ionian ,bay1 :o s5t an embassy to ,alex&] be=e ! battle ( ! ,granicus--a p /rong & ( a haughty _s4 ,alex&] ask$ !m if !y fe>$ any?+4 ,!y answ]$ t !y fe>$ ! sky might fall ^u _! heads4 ,he dismiss$ !m1 obs]v+ t ! ,celts 7 an arrogant nation 7,arrian1 i4 #d1 #aj74 #de ,accord+ to ,yates1 ! m]*&ise ( ,ea/]n ,asia pass$ ?r\gh ,slavonia to ! nor? ( ,europe 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 )\t ! int]v5tion ( ,greece or ,italy4 ,?is may acc\nt = c]ta9 t]ms ( nom5clature :i* evid5tly came ) goods transport$ /raight to ! nor?4 ,yates' ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 vol4 i4 p4 #bbe-bdf4 #df ,^! nor!rn ideas1 spread+ ov] ,g]many1 ,engl&1 & ,france1 fl\ri%$ especially on ,g]man soil2 & ,ori5tal-patt]n$ embroid]ies = hang+s & dress 7 work$ 9 e /it*1 on e mat]ial1 z may be se5 9 ! museums & pr9t$ catalogues ( ,vi5na1 ,b]l91 ,muni*1 c4 #dg ,except1 p]haps1 ! ,s]p5t & ,tree cope 9 ,bock's ,kle9odi54 #dh ,! diff]5t ,celtic nationalities are always recognizable4 ,!re 0 f\nd 9 a grave-m\nd at ,h(1 9 ,norway1 a broo*1 %[+ at a glance t x 0 ,*ri/ian & ,celtic1 ?\gh tak5 f ! grave ( a pagan ,vik+4 ,ano!r at ,b]dal1 9 ,norway1 0 at once recogniz$ by ,m4 ,lorange z be+ und\bt$ly ,iri%4 ,!re are _m o!r in/ances ( evid5t ,celtic ,*ri/ian art f\nd on ! we/ coa/ ( ,norway "u simil> conditions--probably spoil f ! ,briti% ,isl&s1 :i* 7 subject to ! desc5ts ( ! pagan ,vik+s = c5turies aft] ! "t ( ,/4 ,columba's prea*+ ( ,*ri/ianity 9 ,scotl&4 ,= in=mation on ! subject1 see ,g4 ,/eph5's ,monum5ts ( ,runic ,art1 & ,f4 ,&]son's ,pagan ,art 9 ,scotl&4 #di ,scotl& 9 ,pagan ,times1 by ,j4 ,&]son1 pp4 #c-g4 #ej ,on a vase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ,m9]va appe>s ) h] gis on h] brea/1 & clo!d 9 a petticoat & upp] tunic work$ 9 sprays1 & a bord] ( kneel+ lions4 ,on ano!r ,pana!naic vase %e has a g[n bord]$ ) fight+ m51 evid5tly ! sacr$ peplos4 7,fig4 #d47 #ea ,see ! acc\nt ( ! veil ( ,h] 9 ! ,iliad1 & t ( ! mantle ( ,ulysses 9 ! ,odyssey4 #eb ,see ,but*] & ,lang's ,odyssey4 #ec ,d] ,/il4 #ed ,! ,greeks collect$ into "o focus all t !y f\nd ( beauty 9 art f _m di/ant s\rces--,egyptian1 ,indian1 ,assyrian--& ?us fir$ _! inborn g5ius1 :i* !nce=? radiat$ its spl5d\r ov] ! :ole civiliz$ _w4 #ee ,hom]'s ,iliad1 xviii4 #dhj-fag 7,but*] & ,lang74 #ef ,see ,woltmann & ,wo]mann4 ,trans4 ,sidney ,colv91 p4 #fd4 #eg ,except1 p]haps1 ! key/one ar*4 #eh ,virg4 neid iii4 ,trans4 ,g4,l4,g4 #ei ,! ,indian ,cu%4 #fj ,except 9 ! art ( ! ,celts1 ^: ,indo-,*9ese /yle %[s evid5ce ( ,mongolian importation1 & lat] we f9d traces ( a simil> influ5ce3 = in/ance1 ,y>k& rugs are semi-,*9ese1 semi-,t>t>1 resembl+ also ! works ( ,india & ,p]sia4 ,x is easy to di/+ui% f :at s\rce ea* comes1 z "o p]ceives ! influ5ce ( ! neighb\r+ native art 7,on ,japan1 by ,dress]1 p4 #cbb74 #fa ,see a pap] by ,m4 ,t]ri5 de la ,c\p]ie 9 ! ,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,arts1 #ahha4 #fb ,rome _h to be ov]?r[n t ! new religion & ! new civilization might be e/abli%$4 ,*ri/ianity did its "w 9 w9n+ to x ^? ,teutonic conqu]ors1 b h[ va/ 0 ! co/ to ! _w1 occasion$ by ! necessity ( ca/+ into ! boil+ cauldron ( b>b>\s w>f>e1 t noble civilization & ! treasures :i* ,rome _h ga!r$ 9 ! spoil ( a conqu]$ univ]se6 ,_h any old ,roman1 or ,*ri/ian fa!r be5 gift$ ) ,j]emiah's presci5ce1 he might h se5 ! fire blaz+ amid/ ! =e/s ( ,g]many1 & ! cauldron settl+ d[n ) its m\? turn$ t[>ds ! s\?1 & w\ld h utt]$ 8 lam5tation 9 pla9tive tones1 su* z ,j]emiah's1 & 9 ! same melan*oly key 7,holy ,bible1 ) ,comm5t>y by ,canon ,cook1 ,introduction to ,j]emiah1 vol4 i4 p4 #cai74 #fc ,sc&9avian art became /rongly t9ctur$ ) t ( ,byzantium4 ,! ,v>angian ,gu>ds 71 probably1 answ]able = ?is1 by _! int]c\rse betwe5 ,greece & _! native l&1 :i* la/$ s _m c5turies4 ,!re h come d[n to u1 z witnesses ( ?is int]c\rse1 _m co9s & mu* jewell]y1 9 :i* all t is ,ori5tal 9 its /yle has be5 leav5$ by its passage ?r\gh ,byzant9e & ,romanesque *annels4 ,gibbon1 writ+ ( ?is p]iod1 says3 ,! habits ( pilgrimage & piracy _h approximat$ ! c\ntries ( ! e>? 7see ,gibbon's ,decl9e & ,fall1 *ap4 lv474 ,greek embroid]$ patt]ns & ,greek =ms ( dress /ill l+] 9 ,icel&4 ,!re 0 lately br\ght to ,engl& a bride's dress1 :i* might h belong$ to ! ,greek wife ( a ,v>angian gu>dsman4 ,x is embroid]$ ) a bord] 9 gold ( ! classical honeysuckle patt]n2 & ! bridal wrea? ( gilt metal fl[]s might1 f its /yle1 be suppos$ to h be5 tak5 f a ,greek tomb4 #fd ,evid5tly an imitation ( ! peplos ( ,m9]va 7see fig4 #d1 p4 #cb74 #fe ,! desc5t f ! ,p]sian ( ,arab or ,moori% art1 z we g5]ally call x :5 speak+ ( its ,spani% developm5t1 is to be acc\nt$ = by ! pres5ce ( a consid]able colony ( ,p]sians 9 ,spa9 9 ! "t ( ! ,moors1 z atte/$ by num]\s docum5ts /ill 9 exi/5ce4 ,see ,col4 ,murdo* ,smi?'s ,preface to ,p]sian ,art1 ,s]ies ( ,art ,h&books ( ! ,k5s+ton ,museum4 #ff ,rons>d1 poet1 politician1 & diplomati/1 comp>es ! ,que5 ( ,nav>re to ,pallas ,a!ne3-- ,elle adonnait son c\rage ,a ma9te bel ouvrage ,dessus la toile1 et encor ,a jo9dre la soie et l'or4 ,v\s d'un p>eil ex]cise ,m>iez p> artifice ,dessus la toile en ma9te traits ,l'or et la soie en p\rtraict4 #fg ,m>y de ,m$ici br\ght back ) h] f ,italy ,f$]igo ,v9ciolo z h] design] = embroid]ies4 #fh ,see ,art ,ne$lework1 by ,e4 ,maxse1 & ,manuel de la ,brod]ie1 by ,madame ,e4 ,f4 ,celn>t4 #fi ,f ! ,italian translation by ,signor ,m+hetti4 #gj ,ga/on1 ,duke ( ,orleans 7di$ #affj71 kept ho?\ses on purpose to supply models = floral textile designs4 ,le ,brun (t5 drew ! embroid]ies = ! hang+s 9 rooms he _h himself design$ & decorat$4 #ga ,we h all se5 ! d9+-room w9e-cool]s modell$ 9 imitation ( ,roman tombs2 & !re is a draw+-room 9 a spl5did mansion /ill furni%$ ) c9]>y urns cov]+ ! walls1 :ile curule *airs mo/ uncom=tably furni% ! seats4 #gb ,9 8 designs = pap]s & textiles1 ,mr4 ,morris' poetical & arti/ic feel+--8 admiration & s5sitiv5ess = all t is beautiful & graceful 7z well z qua9t7--8 respect = prec$5t1 add$ to 8 own fanciful orig9ality1--h giv5 a col\r & seal to ! :ole decorative art ( ,engl& ( to-day4 ,x is a /ep t[>ds a new s*ool4 ,! sobriety & t5d]ness ( 8 col\r+ gives a s5se ( h>mony1 & reconciles u to 8 repetitions ( l>ge vegetable =ms1 :i* rem9d u sometimes ( a kit*5-g>d5 9 a tornado4 ,= dome/ic decoration we %\ld1 z f> z possible1 adh]e to repos+ =ms & col\rs4 ,our fl[]s %\ld lie 9 _! allott$ spaces1 quiet & undi/urb$ by elem5tal /ruggles1 :i* h no bus9ess 9 our w9d[$ & glass-protect$ rooms4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,design4 ,gorgo4 ,behold ^! 'broid]ies6 ,f9] saw y nev]4 ,prax9o4 ,ye gods6 ,:at arti/s "w'd ^! pictures 98 ,:at k9d ( pa9t] c\ld ^! cle> l9es limn8 ,h[ true !y /&6 nay1 lifelike1 mov+ ev]2 ,n work$--creat$6 ,woman1 ?\ art clev]6 7,sc5e at a ,fe/ival7 ,!ocritus1 ,idyll xv4 l9e #gh4 ,! ^w design1 z appli$ to ne$lework1 includes ! pr9ciples & laws ( ! art3 ! motives & _! h]$it>y outcome2 ! art creat+ ! pr9ciples2 ! laws controll+ ! art4 ,design means int5tion1 motive1 & %\ld z su* be appli$ to ! smalle/ z to ! greate/ ef=ts ( art4 ,t :i* results f x1 ei!r z picture or patt]n1 is a record ( ! ?\ghts :i* produc$ x1 & by its /yle fixes ! date1 ( its production4 ,i w fir/ consid] ! pr9ciples ( design1 & aft]w>ds1 9 ano!r *apt]1 inquire into ! orig9 ( patt]ns2 inve/igat+ _! motives1 & us+ !m z examples1 & also z w>n+s4 ,! individual g5ius ( ! arti/ works fir/ 9 design1 ?\gh 8 "w is = ! use ( ! craftsman or artisan1 8 collaborator2 = ! two1 head & h&s1 mu/ "w toge!r1 or else w r5d] ea* o!r inop]ative or ineffective4 ,! artisan1 by "r ( 8 title1 claims a "p 9 ! art itself2 ! craftsman1 by 8 "n1 po9ts out t he1 too1 has to "w out ! craft1 ! my/]y1 ! inn] mean+1 ( ! design or int5tion4 ,! design] himself is subject to ! prejudices call$ ! ta/e ( 8 day4 ,he is necess>ily "u ! influ5ce :i* t ta/e has impos$ ^u him1 & f :i* no spontane\s ef=ts ( g5ius c entirely emancipate him4 ,:e!r he is conceiv+ a temple = ! wor%ip ( a national fai?1 or ! edg+ = ! robe ( a fair vot>ess1 or ! patt]n on ! bord] ( a cup ( gold or brass1 he _c avoid ! =ce ( tradition & ( cu/om1 :i* comes f af>1 weight$ ) ! p[] ( long desc5t1 & :i* cru%es individuality1 unless x is ( ! mo/ robu/ nature4 ,( v e>ly design we h mo/ curi\s & my/]i\s glimpses4 ,! cave man 0 an arti/4 ,! few scrat*es on a bone1 clev]ly %[+ ! =ms ( a dog or a /ag1 a :ale or a seal1 nay1 ! figure ( a man1 h enabl$ u to asc]ta9 & to classify ! ,paloli?ic cave man2 f :om 8 less civiliz$ successor1 ! ,neoli?ic man1 may be di/+ui%$ by 8 abs5ce ( all animal design4#gc ,^! fragm5t>y scraps ( in=mation1 piec$ toge!r only 9 ^! lat] ye>s1 tea* u ! value ( v small facts :i* "t & c>e are n[ accumulat+1 & :i*1 be+ ! rema9s ( lives & nations pass$ away1 /ill s]ve z ! soil 9 :i* hi/ory c be f]tiliz$4 ,we h no means ( judg+ :e!r ! cave man 0 an arti/ on a great] or m advanc$ scale ?an is actually %[n by ! bone-scrat*+s2 ! only o!r relic ( 8 h&iwork is ! ne$le4#gd ,x is evid5t t a direct imitation ( nature1 su* z is se5 9 ^! graffiti1 & at an imm5se di/ance 9 advance ( !m1 9 ! e>lie/ kn[n ,egyptian sculptures1 prec$$ all conv5tional art4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ portrait /atues 9 ! ,museum at ,b\lac exhibit a high degree ( naturali/ic design be=e x became subs]vi5t to ! expression ( ! fai? ( ! p4 ,z soon z art 0 f\nd to be ! fitte/ conveyance ( symbolism1 x became ! consecrat$ m$ium = transmitt+ language1 ?\ght1 & hi/ory1 & 0 r$uc$ to =ms 9 :i* x 0 cont5t$ to rema9 petrifi$ = _m c5turies1 entirely =ego+ ! /udy or imitation ( nature4#ge ,x record$ cu/oms1 hi/orical ev5ts1 & religi\s beliefs2 receiv+ f ! la/ ! impress ( ! un*angeable & ! absolute1 :i* x gave to ! o!r subjects on :i* x t\*$4 ,x ceas$ to be a creative art 7if x _h ev] aspir$ to su* a function71 & 0 nev] ! embodim5t ( individual ?\ght4 ,?is phase prevail$ "u diff]5t manife/ations 9 ,assyria & ,*9a4 ,pictorial art _h1 9 fact1 become m]ely ! nurs+ "m ( ! alphabet1 guid+ its fir/ /eps--! hi]oglyphic del9eation or expression ( ?\ghts & facts4#gf ,9 ,egypt1 ! *ange f ! fir/ p]iod ( actual imitation ( nature 0 succe$$ by _m c5turies ( ! v sl[e/ progress4 ,r5\f speaks1#gg h[ev]1 ( ! a/oni%+ id5tity t is visible ?r\gh all ! p]iods ( ,egyptian art 7= y c\ld nev] mi/ake any?+ ,egyptian = ! produce ( any o!r c\ntry74 ,?is id5tity & sl[ movem5t1 he says1 are n inconsi/5t ) an imm5se am\nt ( *ange1 :i* mu/ exi/ if !re is any real life4 ,9 fact1 !re 7 p]iods ( relative progress1 repose1 & decay1 & e age _h its peculi> "*4 ,bir*1 ,lepsius1 or ,m>riette c\ld at once tell y ! age ( a /atue1 inscription1 or manuscript1 by ! *>act]i/ic signs :i* actually fix#gh ! date4 ,design1 unconsci\sly has a sl[ly alt]+ & p]si/5tly onw>d movem5t1 :i* b seldom repeats itself4 ,x is "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable in/ances ( evolution4 ,b x also has its cataclysms 7h[ev] we may acc\nt = !m71 ( :i* ! ,greek apo!osis ( all art is a %9+ example1 & ! total disappe>ance ( classical influ5ce 9 ,europe be=e ! ,r5aissance is ano!r4 ,i w in/ance "o prevail+ habit ( ,egyptian art4#gi ,9 ! long processional subjects1 & 9 individual sep>ate figures1 x 0 usual to draw ! head 9 p]fect pr(ile1 ! body fac+ y1 b n completely--a sort ( compromise ) a ?ree-qu>t] view ( x--& ! feet foll[+ ea* o!r1 on ! same l9e z ! pr(ile4 ,?is mode ( repres5t+ ! human figure 0 only effac$ gradually by ! introduction ( ,greek art1 & cont9u$ to be ! conv5tional & decorative me?od ev5 9 ! late/ days ( ,egyptian art2 & x is curi\s to obs]ve1 t 9 ! ,d>k ages ,european design fell into ! same habit4 ,we _c imag9e t ?is di/ort$ way ( draw+ ! human figure c\ld h any int5tional mean+1 & !re=e may simply believe t x _h become a cu/om2 & t :5 art has s /iff5$ & consolidat$ itself by prec$5t & long tradition1 z 9 ,egypt & 9 ,india1 c]ta9 errors z well z c]ta9 tru?s become1 z x 71 +ra9$ into x4 ,plato rem>k$ ( ,egyptian art1 t ! pictures & /atues !y made t5 ?\s& ye>s ago 7 9 no p>ticul> bett] ?an ^? !y make n[4#hj ,"o day1 h[ev]1 ! ,greek broke away f ! anci5t bonds ( cu/om4 ,! body 0 made to accompany ! head1 & ! feet foll[$ suit4 ,b ! /range fact rema9s t = sev]al ?\s& ye>s m5 walk$ 9 pr(ile1 all out ( draw+4 ,evid5tly orig9ality 0 n 9 mu* e/imation among ! ,egyptian patrons ( art4 ,design seem$ to h re/rict$ itself to effective adaptations 9 a few p]mitt$ =ms 9 ar*itecture & pa9t+1 & ! illum9ation ( ! papyrus ,,mss4 ,egyptian ela/icity ( design f\nd "s scope 9 its dome/ic ornam5tation1 9 jewell]y & hang+s1 b especially 9 its embroid]ies = dress4 ,"h mu* +5uity 0 %[n1 & ! patt]ns on walls & ! ceil+s ( tombs give u ! designs :i* ,semp] consid]s z hav+ be5 orig9ally int5d$ = textile purposes4 ,he /ra9s to a po9t to :i* ,i c h>dly foll[ him1 ! !ory t all decorations 7 orig9ally textile 7except su* z proce$$ 9 ,*9a f ! lattice-"w motive72 ?\gh ,i will+ly accept ! idea t textile decoration 0 "o ( ! fir/ & mo/ active promot]s ( design4 ,x is n possible = u to trace sy/ematically ! diff]5t po9ts at :i* ,egyptian & ,asiatic art t\*1 b we c see t !y 7 always act+ & react+ on ea* o!r 9 ! lat] c5turies be=e our era1 & t ,greece pr(it$ by !m4 ,! fir/ ef=ts ( bo? to break ?r\gh ?is *rysalis /age1 result$ 9 ! e>ly ,greek ar*aic /yle4 ,its /rongly m>k$1 muscul> humanity rem9ds "o ( all ! conflict+ impressions /ruggl+ 9 ! conception ( ! great arti/ :o fir/ embodi$ !m4 ,!y appe> to be break+ out f ! trammels ( ,egyptian & ,assyrian /yles1 :i* by meet+ _h eng5d]$ life2 & ,greek art 0 ! *ild ( _! union4 ,!n art1 hav+ %ak5 (f symbolism z its only purpose1 & seek+ to repres5t ! =ms ( m51 yet possess$ by a guid+ _s1 fir/ s\ght to convey ! idea ( expression4 ,! wor%ip ( humanity1 m+l+ ) t ( _! gods1 produc$ ! ,h]oic ideal2 & all ! attributes ( _! h]oes--maje/y1 beauty1 grace1 & passion--_h to be depict$2 z well z rage1 sorr[1 despair1 & rev5ge4 ,^! 7 soon to be surr\nd$ ) all ! spl5d\rs ( ! arts ( decoration4 ,greece _h prep>$ = ?is outbur/ ( excell5ce & ! p]fect sci5ce ( art1 by collect+ ! traditions1 ! symbols1 ! exp]i5ce 9 col\r+1 & ! k ( beautiful =ms1 human & ideal4 ,all t 0 ne$$ = ! adv5t ( ! man :o c\ld design & create types ( beauty = all ages 0 ?us accumulat$1 & ! man came1 & 8 "n 0 ,pheidias4 ,a cr[d foll[$ him1 all /eep$ 9 ! same flood ( poetry & art2 & = sev]al c5turies !y fill$ ! _w ) ! s5se & sci5ce ( beauty4 ,!n ! function ( ! design]--! arti/--0 *ang$ & elevat$1 & he became1 ?r\gh ! great days ( ,greek & ,roman ,pagan art1 & aft]w>ds ?r\gh ! rise ( t ( ,*ri/ianity1 ! expon5t ( all t 0 poetical & ennobl+ 9 ! life ( man4 ,b ?\gh ! ,greek arti/ _h brok5 ! *a9s ( prescrib$ =m1 he /ill adh]$ to ! motive--! inn] symbolical ?\ght--& /rove to express x z x _h nev] be5 express$ be=e4#ha ,new pr9ciples 7 evok$1 & ! arti/1 :ile revell+ 9 ! sweetness & light ( fre$om1 fram$ = himself /&>ds ( ta/e & ref9em5t1 :i* he left z a h]itage to all succe$+ g5]ations4 ,i fe> t ,i am repeat+ a platitude :5 insi/+ t fre$om 9 all design1 b especially t employ$ 9 decoration1 mu/ be kept )9 c]ta9 b\nd>ies2 o!rwise x becomes lawless4 ,rules1 l all o!r controll+ circum/ances1 are ( ! greate/ s]vice to ! arti/1 z !y sugge/ :at he c d1 z well z decide :at he ought n to attempt4 ,all b\nd>ies are highly sugge/ive2 ! size ( a %eet ( pap]--! =m ( a panel--! col\rs 9 ! box ( pigm5ts--ev5 ! t\* ( ! bru% :i* comes to h&1--all ^! help to %ape ! idea to our ends1 & assi/ u 9 giv+ to ! orig9al motive ! =m :i* is mo/ suitable4 ,^! re/rictions are (t5 reg>d$ z imp$im5ts by ! impati5t arti/2 :]eas he ought to look on !m z h9ts & sugge/ions1 & claim _! assi/ance1 in/ead ( /ruggl+ aga9/ !m4 ,let u accept ! pr9ciple t x is good = ea* ( our ef=ts at decoration t we are controll$ by ! space allott$ to its composition4 ,! relative size 7small1 p]haps1 = a table-cov]1 b l>ge = t ( a book7 & ! %ape to :i* we are limit$1 alt] all ! conditions ( a design4 ,:e!r x is squ>e or oblong1 or l5g!n$ into a frieze2 :e!r x mu/ be divid$ into p>ts1 includ+ m ?an "o motive1 or be gr\p$ r\nd "o c5tre2 :e!r x is to be repeat$ m ?an once )9 ! range ( ! eye1 or :e!r x is to disappe> into space upw>ds or horizontally2 & :e!r x is to /& alone1 or be fram$ ) l9es or a bord]1--all ^! re/rictions mu/ gov]n ! design1 or1 9 its highe/ phase1 ! composition4 ,! composition mu/ consi/ ( support+ l9es well balanc$1 & values fill+ up ! :ole surface ( ! space1 :i* is to conta9 x1 & beyond :i* x mu/ n seek to ext5d4 ,z we h 9 embroid]y no di/ances--only a =egr\nd--! design mu/ be plac$ all on "o plane4 ,! title ( composition _c be grant$ to a b\quet or a bird ca/ on "o corn] ( a squ>e ( l951 h[ev] gracefully x may be drawn4 ,x does n cov] ! space allott$ to x4 ,if we c>efully /udy ! great & guid+ pr9ciples t h be5 di/9ctly =mulat$ by "s ( ! ,cont95tal au?orities on decorative art1 we %all f9d mu* help 9 compos+ our designs4 ,no?+ is m int]e/+ ?an to se>* = ! f\ndation ( ! /ructure :i* c5turies h help$ to raise1 & to dig out1 z x 71 ! orig9al plan or ?\ght ( ! f\nd]4 ,s x is mo/ in/ructive to le>n ! fundam5tal rules by :i* su* results are secur$4 ,m4 ,blanc#hb says ( ! g5]al laws ( ornam5tation3 ,!re c be no nobl] satisfaction to ! m9d1 ?an to be able to unravel :at is beyond measure complicat$1 to dim9i% :at is app>5tly imm5se1 & to r$uce to a few cle> po9ts :at has be5 till n[ involv$ 9 a haze ( obscurity4 ,j z ! tw5ty-six lett]s ( ! alphabet h be51 & always w be suffici5t to =m ! expression ( ! words necess>y = all human ?\ght1 s c]ta9 elem5ts susceptible ( comb9ation among !mselves h suffic$1 & w suffice1 to create ornam5t1 ^: v>iety may be indef9itely multipli$4 ,he r$uces ornam5tal design to five pr9ciples1 ,repetition1 ,alt]nation1 ,symmetry1 ,progression1 & ,confusion4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,wave ,patt]n4 ,fir/1 ,repetition4 ,y may act on ! m9d1 ?r\gh sight1 by ! same means z ^? t w excite physical s5sations4 ,a s+le prick ( a p9 is no?+1 b a hundr$ su* w be intol]ably pa9ful4 ,repetition produces pleasurable s5sations1 z well z pa9ful ones4 ,an insignificant =m c become int]e/+ by repetition1 & by ! sugge/ion :i*1 s+ly1 x c\ld n orig9ate4 ,= example1 ! roll+ ( ! ,greek scroll or wave patt]n awak5s 9 u ! idea ( "o object foll[+ ano!r4 ,x also sugge/s ! waves ( ! ocean2 or ! poet may see 9 x a troop ( maid5s pursu+ ea* o!r 9 space1 n frivol\sly1 b 9 cad5ce1 z if execut+ a my/ic dance4 ,*ange ! curves into angul> =ms1 z mak+ ! key patt]n1 & x w no long] fl[1 b become z sev]e z ! o!r 0 graceful4 ,no pr9ciple gives great] pleasure ?an repetition1 & next to x1 alt]nation4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,key ,patt]n4 ,v>iety is "h add$ to ! law ( repetition4 ,!re c be repetition )\t alt]nation1 b no alt]nation )\t repetition4 ,alt]nation is1 !n1 a succession ( two objects recurr+ regul>ly 9 turn2 & ! cad5ce ( appe>ance & disappe>ance gives pleasure to ! s5ses1 :e!r x be address$ to ta/e1 he>+1 or sight4 ,alt]nate rhymes1 & ev5 %ort & long l9es1 soo! ! e> 9 v]se4 ,9 =m1 ! alt]nations are ! m agreeable1 ! m !y diff]4 ,su* are1 9 ar*itecture1 a succession ( metopes & triglyphs on a ,doric frieze1 :]e ! circle & ! /raight l9es relieve ea* o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,metopes & ,triglyphs4 ,symmetry4 ,! correspond5ce ( two p>ts opposite to ea* o!r is symmetrical4 ,a liv+ be+1 man or animal1 is compos$ ( two p>ts1 :i* appe> to h be5 unit$ d[n "o c5tral l9e4 ,)\t be+ id5tical1 if y fold$ !m d[n ! l9e1 !y w\ld ov]lap & p]fectly cov] ea* o!r4 ,man is born ) ! s5se ( symmetry1 to mat* 8 outw>d =m2 & he appreciates its exi/5ce1 & in/9ctively feels ! want ( x4 ,symmetry is ano!r ^w = ju/ness ( proportion4 ,! ,greeks und]/ood by symmetry1 ! condition ( a body ( :i* ! memb]s h a common measure among !mselves4 ,we expect ! two sides ( a liv+ be+ to correspond1 & we look = ^! proportions 9 ! liv+ body to balance ea* o!r1 :i* we d n expect to f9d 9 any o!r natural object4 ,a l>ge leaf at ! end ( a sl5d] /em may be z appropriate1 & give z mu* pleasure1 z a small leaf 9 ! same position2 b a huge h& at ! end ( an arm is n s agreeable to our s5se ( symmetry z "o ( ! size & outl9e :i* we naturally expect to see4 ,! m9d ( man expects to f9d1 outside ( himself & 8 own proportions1 some?+ :i* he feels is proportionate & symmetrical2 9 fact1 he at once detects ! want ( x4 ,! ,japanese1 ) delicacy & ta/e1 (t5 sub/itute = symmetry its coroll>y--balance4 ,! ,*9ese or ,japanese vase w (t5 h an appreciable aff9ity & resemblance to a ,greek "o1 ea* pres]v+ a secret balance1 ev5 9 ! extreme/ :imsicality ( its composition4 ,proportion is ano!r coroll>y to symmetry1 if x is n ano!r ^w = "s ( its qualities4 ,progression4 ,9 ?is pr9ciple are includ$ long p]spectives1 pyramidal =ms 9 ar*itecture1 & c]ta9 processional compositions4 ,= pyramidal surfaces1 su* z p$im5ts1 a progressive ornam5t is ! fitte/4 ,all ! build+s 9 ! ,ea/1 & 9 ! anci5t cities ( ,c5tral ,am]ica1 :i* are rais$ on pyramids ( /eps1 %[ ! t5d5cy to ?is species ( effect 9 giv+ dignity to ! build+s plac$ on su* plat=ms4 ,p]spectives are highly attractive specim5s ( progression1 :i*1 :5 made use ( 9 ! decorations ( a !atre1 produce delightful illusions4 ,m4 ,blanc quotes ,b]n>d9 de ,/4 ,pi]re1 :o says3 ,:5 ! bran*es ( a plant are dispos$ 9 a uni=m plan ( dim9i%+ size1 z 9 ! pyramidal %ape ( a p9e1 !re is progression2 & if ^! trees be plant$ 9 long av5ues1 dim9i%+ 9 height & col\r1 z ea* tree does 9 itself1 our pleasure is r$\bl$1 because progression "h becomes inf9ite4 ,x is ow+ to ?is feel+ ( inf9ity t we take pleasure 9 look+ at any?+ t pres5ts progression1 su* z nurs]ies 9 diff]5t /ages ( gr[?1 ! slopes ( hills retreat+ to ! horizon at diff]5t levels--int]m9able p]spectives4 ,all floral compositions :i* give ! effect or impression ( gr[? may be includ$ 9 ! progressive pr9ciple4 ,a composition :i*1 beg9n+ z x 7 ) a /em1 spreads & floreates equally on ea* side2 ?ru/+ outw>ds & upw>ds1 & end+ 9 a topmo/ twig or bud1 is gov]n$ by ?is pr9ciple4 ,confusion4 ,boileau is quot$ by ,m4 ,blanc z say+1 ,a f9e disord] is (t5 ! effect ( art2 & he adds1 ,b be=e he said x1 nature _h %[n x4 ,"h we mu/ obs]ve t ! confusions or disord]s ( nature are all subject to c]ta9 laws2 & x is 9 adopt+ ?is idea1 t an arti/ic confusion may give u ! s5se ( its be+ ord]$ by1 & subject to def9ite rules4 ,^! rules act z ! frame affects ! picture1 circumscrib+ its irregul>ities1 & re/rict+ !m to a c]ta9 area4 ,! arti/-pa9t] is1 9 a small space1 p]mitt$ to employ confusion1 because ! art ( ! cab9et-mak] w keep ! geometrical effect 9 view4 ,:5 ! ,japanese ?r[ _! ornam5ts1 app>5tly )\t rule1 "h & !re on ! japann$ box1 !y reckon on ! squ>e %ape be+ suffici5tly m>k$ to ! eye by its %9+ surface & %>p corn]s4 ,! confusion 9 a ,japanese l&scape is s beautiful t "o appreciates ! innate s5se ( balance1 :i* modifies ! confusion--rules & ord]s x4 ,9 ! h&s ( ! design]1 confusion is only a me?od ( r5d]+ ord] visible 9 a happy disord]4 ,"h contr>ies meet & t\*4444 ,admit ^! z ! pr9ciples ( all decoration1 & y w f9d t1 by foll[+ & comb9+ !m1 y may produce v>ieties z numb]less z ! s&s ( ! sea1 & t a lat5t equilibrium w r$uce ne>ly e complication & confusion to p]fect h>mony4 ,ea* ( ! five pr9ciples we h discuss$ has its coroll>y1 :i* adds to ! res\rces ( ! decorative arti/4 ,^! are z foll[s3--,to ,repetition belongs h>mony1 or consonance2 to ,alt]nation1 contra/2 to ,symmetry1 radiation2 to ,progression1 gradation2 to balanc$ ,confusion1 delib]ate complication4#hc ,h>monies 9 =m & 9 col\r are produc$ 9 diff]5t ways--sometimes by repetition ) v>iation2 sometimes by ! diff]5t p>ts be+ r reflect$ on ea* ?an repeat$4 ,?is expla9s ! h>mony t may be call$ consonance1 if ,i rightly und]/& ,m4 ,blanc's !ory4 ,contra/ is mo/ g5]ally und]/ood z a common res\rce 9 ! h&s ( ! arti/ = produc+ /rong effects2 b ,m4 ,blanc clev]ly expresses ! retic5ce ne$$ to ensure contra/ be+ pleasurable1 n pa9ful4 ,to adorn p]sons or ?+s1 he says1 is n simply = ! purpose ( caus+ !m to be conspicu\s2 x is t !y may be admir$4 ,x is n simply to draw att5tion to !m1 b t !y may be reg>d$ ) feel+s ( pleasure4444 ,if contra/ be ne$$1 let x be us$ z ! means ( r5d]+ ! :ole m p[]ful1 brilliant1 & /rik+4 ,= in/ance1 if orange is int5d$ to pr$om9ate 9 a decoration1 let blue be m+l$ ) x1 b sp>+ly4 ,let ! complem5t>y col\r be its auxili>y1 & n its rival4 ,contra/s are always unpleasant1 if ! two =ces /ruggle ) ea* o!r = pre-em95ce1 :e!r x be 9 =m or 9 col\r4 ,! rule to be obs]v$ 9 all ornam5tal design is ?is3 t contra/+ objects1 in/ead ( di/urb+ unity1 %\ld assi/ x by giv+ mo/ effect to t we wi% to br+ =w>d & display4 ,radiation belongs to ! pr9ciple ( symmetry1 />t+ f a c5tre f :i* all l9es div]ge1 & to :i* all l9es po9t4 ,?is is to be f\nd ?r\gh\t nature1 f ! rays ( ! sun to ! petals ( ! daisy4 ,all decorative art employs & illu/rates x4 ,gradation 9 col\r1 z 9 =m1 is n q synonym\s ) progression1 b expresses a s]ies ( adroitly manag$ transitions4 ,! ,engli% int]m+le 9 _! decoration1 col\rs v f9ely bl5d$2 nor d !y f9d any transition too delicate4 ,?is1 z 9 all pr9ciples ( ornam5t1 has to be employ$ accord+ to ! feel+s int5d$ to be produc$ on ! m9d ( ! spectator--:e!r = absolute contra/ or = imp]ceptible progression1 :5 ! t5d]e/ col\rs are ne$$4 ,complication is illu/rat$ by ,m4 ,blanc1 by a quotation f ,ziegl]4#hd ,complication is ano!r aspect ( ! art :i* owns ! same s5tim5t z t express$ by ,ddalus 9 8 labyr9?1 ,solomon 9 8 my/]i\s seal1 ! ,greeks 9 _! int]lac+ & w9d+ ornam5ts1 ! ,byzant9es1 ! ,moors1 & ! ar*itects ( our ca!drals 9 _! f9e/ works4 ,int]tw9$ mosaics1 & int]section ( ar*es & ribs1 all spr+ f complication4 ,to foll[ ! int]lac+ l9e ( an ornam5t1 gives ! m9d ! pleasure ( unty+ ! ,gordian knot1 )\t cutt+ x4 ,x gives ! excitem5t ( curiosity1 pursuit1 & discov]y4 ,:5 we see ^! trac]ies s skilfully plait$1 9 :i* /raight l9es & curves int]m+le1 cross1 bran* out1 disappe> & recur1 we exp]i5ce a high pleasure 9 unravell+ a puzzle :i* at fir/1 p]haps1 appe>$ to be undeciph]able2 & 9 ackn[l$g+ t a lat5t arrangem5t may be recogniz$ 9 :at at fir/1 & at a di/ance1 seems an inextricable confusion4 ,! ,celtic1 ,moori%1 & ,go?ic /yles illu/rate & are expla9$ by ^! rem>ks2 & !y are well wor?y ! att5tion ( ! design]4 ,hav+ s freely borr[$ f ,m4 ,blanc's *apt] on ! g5]al laws ( ornam5tation1 ,i w f9i% my quotations ) ! words ) :i* he concludes3 ,!re is no decoration 9 ! works ( nature or ! inv5tions ( m5 :i* does n owe its bir? to "o ( ! orig9al pr9ciples "h enum]at$1 viz4 ,repetition1 ,alt]nation1 ,symmetry1 ,progression1 & ,balanc$ ,confusion2 or else to "o ( _! second>y causes1 consonance1 contra/1 radiation1 gradation1 & complication2 or la/ly1 to a comb9ation ( ^! diff]5t elem5ts1 :i* all f9ally lose !mselves 9 a primordial cause--! orig9 ( ! movem5ts ( ! univ]se--,,ord]4#he ,! extracts f ,m4 ,blanc's works ,i h c>efully plac$ betwe5 commas1 be+ mo/ anxi\s to express my obligation to him = 8 c>efully =mulat$ epitome ( ! laws ( design4 ,b ?\gh ,i h l>gely quot$1 !re rema9s /ill mu* mo/ int]e/+ & sugge/ive matt]1 :i* ,i recomm5d ! read] to seek 9 8 book4 ,?\gh we %\ld call to our aid ! g5]al laws ( design = all art1 we mu/ select f !m :at is specially appropriate = ! ne$s ( our craft4 ,f ! art ( ne$lework we %\ld elim9ate z mu* z possible all ideas ( r\ndness1 all v>iety ( surface & effects ( light & %ad[ & contra/+ col\rs4 ,unity1 s(tness1 grace1 ref9em5t1 brightness1 *e]fulness1 pleasant sugge/ions1--^! %\ld be ! objects 9 view :5 we design ! panels = ! draw+-room or b\doir1 ! hang+s = ! b$1 or ! cov] = ! table--h>mony :i* w satisfy ! eye1 ?\ghts t %all please ! m9d4 ,! objects 9 nature t give u ! mo/ unalloy$ pleasure--birds & fl[]s--are ^? t f all "t h s]v$ z ! mat]ials = decorative design1 & !re=e h be5 m\ld$ into ! traditional patt]ns :i* h desc5d$ to u f ! e>lie/ times4 ,design mu/ foll[ ! sci5tific laws ( art1 & %ape ! v>iations ( traditional =ms f :i* we _c escape4 ,9 our pres5t se>* aft] ^! inn] tru?s1 ,i repeat t we h no?+ to d ) ! rules ( pa9t+1 sculpture1 & ar*itecture1 or any o!r ( ! second>y arts1 su* z wood c>v+1 metal "w1 c42 ^! hav+ ea* _! own intr9sic pr9ciples1 :i* mu/ be work$ out z coroll>ies f ! g5]al laws ( composition :i* gov]n all ,aryan art4#hf ,x is curi\s t 9 draw+ on ! flat1 9 anci5t frescoes1 !re appe> to be no ackn[l$g$ rules ( p]spective--h>dly m 9 ,pompeii1 ?an on e>ly ,*9ese scre5s & plates2 or ?an lat] 9 ! ,bayeux tape/ries4 ,& yet ! ,greeks1 ) _! un]r+ in/9ct1 actually made use ( false ar*itectural p]spectives to add to ! effects ( height & dep? 9 _! colonnad$ build+s4#hg ,!y s5sibly dim9i%$ ! circumf]5ce ( ! columns1 & us$ o!r means 9 _! designs = ?is purpose4 ,!y und]/ood ! pr9ciple1 b !y did n c>ry x into flat decorative art4 ,!y did n attempt1 :5 !y pa9t$ a l&scape on ! wall1 to d m ?an recall ! idea !y 7 sket*+2 & nev] ?\ght ( vy+ 9 sci5tific or naturali/ic imitation ) ! real l&scape !y saw ?r\gh ! w9d[2 !y did n wi% to int]f]e ) ! effect ( ! /atue1 or ! human figures gr\p$ 9 front ( x1 to :i* ! wall s]v$ z a backgr\nd4 ,^? ?rew %ad[s & ca/ lights2 b 9 ! flat !re 7 no %ad[s1 no p]spective--all 0 flat4#hh ,we mu/ draw f ?is ! d$uction t ! ,greeks held t flatness 0 an ess5tial quality ( wall decoration 7except 9 friezes7 z well z ( all textile ornam5t2 & = e reason we mu/ accept ?is flatness z a g5]al law = designs 9 embroid]y4 ,9 hang+s & dress mat]ials1 flatness is m agreeable ?an a complicat$ %ad$ design1 especially :5 x is fur!r confus$ by folds1 di/urb+ & int]rupt+ ! fl[ ( ! l9es ( ! patt]n4 ,! read] w p]ceive t ! laws ( composition = textiles quot$ f ,m4 ,blanc1 apply p]fectly to designs on ! flat1 & to outl9$ sket*es 9 black & :ite1 z well z to ! mo/ elaborate compositions = pictures1 ei!r hi/orical or g5re4 ,!y are rules :i* %\ld be und]/ood & employ$ by ! man :o draws = a wall-pap] or an area rail+2 & c]ta9ly by him :o makes patt]ns = our s*ools ( design4 ,x may !re=e be laid d[n z a g5]al rule1 t all designs = embroid]y %\ld be consid]$ fir/ z outl9$ draw+s1 cov]+ a flat surface1 & !n fill$ 9 ) col\r4 ,! outl9es %\ld z little z possible ov]lap "o ano!r1 z flatness is "o ( ! fir/ objects to be rememb]$2 & ?is1 ( c\rse1 w be di/urb$ by ! p>ts pass+ ov] or "u ea* o!r4 ,indian designs 9 fl[]s h inv>iably a wond]ful flatness1 9 ! abs5ce ( all light & %ad[2 jo9$ to a naturali/ic sugge/ion ( detail1 :i* is acc\nt$ = by _! traditional mode ( copy+ f nature4 ,! bran* or blossom to be copi$1 is laid on ! gr\nd & pegg$ d[n ) c>e1 to elim9ate e v>iety ( surface1 & e bran* & twig s arrang$ t !y may n cross or t\* ea* o!r4 ,?is conv5tional composition is !n drawn1 & e natural di/9ction 9 ! =m c>efully copi$4 ,i w\ld sugge/ t ?is idea %\ld be accept$ z useful = imitation among ourselves 9 c]ta9 conv5tional compositions ( vegetable =ms4 ,p]haps x is our ,aryan ance/ry t has giv5 u a prevail+ ta/e = su* decorations2 & x is wor? :ile to consid] h[ be/ to manipulate !m4#hi ,cl++ z we d to ^! floral designs1 we c see t !y are ! only ones t be> repetition1 :e!r cov]+ ! surface ( ! mat]ial 9 ! ri* irregul>ity ( ! fl[]s 9 a field1 or conv5tionaliz$ into a =m or a patt]n4 ,! eye is nev] %ock$ or fatigu$ by su* repetitions 9 ord]ly confusion1 or tra9$ by ! h& into arti/ic %apes or me&]+s ( trac]y4 ,b :5 embroid]y or weav+ attempts to repres5t animals or typical human figures1 repetition imm$iately becomes tiresome4 ,a ,madonna surr\nd$ by angels1 comes 9 badly1 repeat$ ov] & ov] aga9 z a patt]n1 brok5 up by folds1 cut up by a seam1 dislocat$ 9 ! jo9+1 & repeat$ 9 ti]s4 ,su* a design is figur$ 9 ,aub]ville's book4#ij ,! draw+ is beautiful1 b by repetition x becomes ridicul\s4 ,i !re=e deprecate ?is k9d ( ornam5t 9 textile "w4 ,= ?is reason embroid]y1 :i* c be fitt$ to ea* space t is to be cov]$1 is pref]able to wov5 designs1 h[ev] ri*ly or p]fectly !y may be c>ri$ out4 ,ano!r class ( design1 :i* mu/ be consid]$ ap>t1 is ! conv5tional-geometrical1 ( :i* ! special di/9ction appe>s to be t x consi/s ( e*oes or fragm5ts ( :at we h se5 else:]e4 ,^! conv5tional patt]ns are (t5 m]ely ! detritus ( pa/ /yles or motives cru%$ & plac$ by "t 9 a sort ( kaleidoscope4 ,!y rem9d "o ( ! little wrea?s ( brok5 %ells & col\r$ sea-we$s left on ! s&s by ! retir+ waves aft] a /orm1 & are sometimes full ( beauty & sugge/ion4 7,pl4 #ag47 ,we trace 9 ^! fragm5t>y patt]ns =gott5 l9ks ) diff]5t civilizations2 & we pond] on ! hi/orical ev5ts :i* h br\ght !m into juxtaposition4 ,^! kaleidoscope patt]ns are to be se5 9 ,p]sian & ,turki% c>pets ( ! pres5t day1 & we f9d1 on exam9ation1 little bits :i* c only be ! remnants ( a brok5-up motive1 probably z mu* lo/ n[ to ! design] :o inh]its ! traditional =m1 z to u :o c only see ! vague results4 ,i illu/rate ?is rem>k by giv+ ! bord] ( a mod]n ,p]sian c>pet :i* has c]ta9ly _h ,egyptian ance/ry4 ,! boat1 ! beetle1 & ! prehi/oric cross are to be f\nd 9 x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,p]sian ,c>pet4 ,_m conv5tional patt]ns ( to-day are desc5dants ( ! lattice-"w ( ,*9ese art1 & ( ! zigzags1 l9es1 & discs ( b>b>\s primitive ornam5tation4 ,! trac]ies 9 ,indian /one w9d[s %[ "s ( ! mo/ *>m+ geometrical =ms1 & are ak9 to ! ,p]sian & ,russian modes ( compos+ conv5tional patt]ns4 ,!y appe> on v anci5t metal "w1 & are ! motives ( all ! embroid]ies 9 ! ,greek isl&s & ! pr9cipalities1 & ( ! l95 embroid]ies ( ,russia4 ,_! ,byzant9e orig9 gave its impress to ! ,european s*ools ( ! ,middle ,ages1 & ! patt]n-books ( ,g]many & ,v5ice ( ! sixte5? c5tury are full ( !m4 ,!y are be/ suit$ = ! mosaic /it*es1 &1 kept 9 _! places z decoration1 !y are useful = c>pets & bord]s4 ,x %\ld be impress$ on our "y arti/s1 t1 9 compos+ _! designs1 !y mu/ be influ5c$ by ! mat]ials to be employ$1 & ! purpose = :i* ! decoration is int5d$4 ,?us 9 textile design = dress & hang+s 7except+ = tape/ries7 ! fact mu/ nev] be lo/ sight ( t !y w be subject to di/urbance by cross+ folds & crumpl+s1 :i* w break up ! l9es ( ! patt]n4 ,x is !re=e evid5t t a design fitt$ = a rigid mat]ial 9 a fix$ place1 su* z an ar*itectural decoration 9 wood1 /one1 or /ucco1 mu/ be subject to a treatm5t diff]5t f t :i* befits an embroid]$ curta9 or panel4 ,/one & wood1 be+ mat]ials ( uni=m col\r1 require all ! help ( recess$ %ad[s & projections to cat* ! light2 :]eas 9 textiles1 =m is assi/$ by col\r1 & smoo?ness ( surface is a prim>y consid]ation4 ,! /rongly acc5tuat$ design = wood-c>v+ becomes poor & lifeless :5 depriv$ ( its ess5tial conditions & raison d'tre1 & ! patt]n :i* looks *>m+1 outl9$ & fill$ 9 ) col\r1 c\ld be h>dly se5 incis$ on a flat /one surface4 ,?is seems a truism1 b ! neglect ( ^! pla9 axioms causes _m mi/akes 9 decorative art4 ,mr4 ,r$grave says3 ,a design mu/ be bad :i* applies ! same treatm5t to diff]5t mat]ials4 ,he fur!r says3 ,! position ( ! ornam5t requires special consid]ation4 ,! v>i$ quantities1 bold] relief1 & co>s] execution are n only all[able1 b absolutely necess>y1 at heights consid]ably above ! eye4 ,moreov]1 ea* fabric has its own peculi> lu/re1 texture1 c4 ,?us1 9 ! use ( hang+s1 curta9s1 c41 ! design might be suitable 9 silk1 & co>se or dull 9 wooll54#ia ,"h ,i v5ture to diff] f ,mr4 ,r$grave4 ,p]spective is z mu* to be respect$ 9 decoration z 9 pictures1 ne> to ! eye2 & ! gradation 9 size & col\r1 z ! ornam5t travels up into height or fades into di/ance1 is a phase ( pleasure :i* %\ld n be *eck$ by enl>gem5t ( =m or re9=cem5t ( col\r+4 ,x is h>dly necess>y to w>n our arti/s aga9/ a sort ( design :i* is conv5tional1 yet _h its own mean+ 9 ! beg9n+4 ,?is is to be f\nd 9 ,indian c>v+s & embroid]ies ( a c]ta9 date1 or imitat+ ! works ( t di/ant p]iod4 ,x proce$$ f a hide\s wor%ip ( mon/r\s ,dravidian div9ities4 ,_! /atues are to be f\nd1 surr\nd$ by co>sely design$ patt]ns1 9 ! temple ar*itecture ( ! fir/ & second c5turies4 ,its *>act]i/ics are idols 9 ni*es or %r9es1 di/ort$ 9 =m or attitude2 foliage ( unnatural1 twi/$ plants1 add$ to ! recurr+ ( ! lotus & tree ( life2 or animals de/roy+ ea* o!r1 or kneel+ 9 wor%ip to ! idols4 ,^! ugly designs are purely conv5tional4 ,f]gusson sugge/s t !y 7 introduc$ into ,mexico 9 ! f\r? or fif? c5turies ,a4,d4 by ,buddhism4#ib ,^? _m-arm$1 sometimes _m-fac$ div9ities drove out ! beautiful ,aryan types1 :i*1 h[ev]1 resum$ _! sway :5 ! wave ( ! ,r5aissance fl[$ back to ,india1 & 0 remodell$ by ,ori5tal ta/e to ! lovely designs we f9d 9 ! ,taj ,mahal4 ,9 ,m4 ,blanc's classification ( ornam5t1 he has plac$ ,go?ic design "u ! head ( delib]ate complication4 ,! :ole ( ! ,go?ic decorations1 :i* are a gradual gr[? 9 "o direction1 arose f ! /udy ( int]lac+ b\ghs & /ems1 employ$ z ! enri*m5t ( ! newly-gr[n =ms ( ! vault$ ro(s4 ,! possibilities ( great size & height cov]$ ^! designs & inspir$ all _! decoration2 & ! effect ( reit]ation & long recurr+ l9es 9 p]spective 0 ess5tially ! motive ( ^! av5ues 9 /one4#ic ,"h ent] ! pr9ciples ( repetition & progression1 & y w f9d h[ c>efully ! design]s ( ! twelf?1 ?irte5?1 & f\rte5? c5turies work$ up to ^! ideas4 ,y w see 9 _! embroid]ies1 %9+ figures or pictures 9 gold1 silv]1 & col\r$ silks1 %imm]+ on d>k velvet backgr\nds1 ea* design t]m9at+ a p]spective ( ar*itectural =ms :i* enhances _! brilliancy4 ,! mo/ effective1 probably1 7 g5]ally employ$ = ! adornm5t ( ! high alt>1 s z to be se5 f a great di/ance4 ,! small] & less di/9ct & m delicate ornam5ts 7 res]v$ = ! side *apels or = small] *ur*es1 :]e su* di/ant effects 7 inappropriate4 ,b ! motives ( ecclesia/ical embroid]y w be discuss$ 9 a future *apt]4 ,all attempts at pictorial art are a mi/ake 9 textiles4 ,x does n ent] into su* designs2 & :5 by *ance x is all[$ to be s us$1 x is an error ( judgm5t1 & only exhibits a labori\s & useless +5uity4 ,x is no long] an arti/ic del9eation ( a natural object1 b becomes an imitation ( ano!r way ( r5d]+ su* objects4 ,mr4 ,r$grave says t pictorial art 9 our manufactures is "o ( our great mi/akes4 ,! picture mu/ be indep5d5t ( ! mat]ial1 ! ?\ght alone %\ld gov]n x2 :]eas 9 decoration ! mat]ial mu/ be "o ( ! sugge/ors ( ! ?\ght1 its use mu/ gov]n ! design4 ,p]haps x w appe> to my read]s t "h ,i repeat1 9 diff]5t =ms1 :at has be5 said 9 a previ\s *apt] on ! hi/ory ( /yle4 ,i ?9k t x is bett] to d s1 ?an to omit to %[ :]e /yle & design mu/ accompany ea* o!r4 ,/yle1 )\t any ref]5ce to design1 w\ld be b a b>r5 subject2 & design1 )\t ref]5ce to /yle1 w\ld become lawless1 & soon be lo/ 9 ! mazes ( bad ta/e & mann]ism4 ,bo? subjects are ( s l>ge & important a nature t ,i d n attempt to d m ?an po9t out h[1 9 _! hi/ory & _! influ5ce1 !y belong to ! craft ( embroid]y4 ,su* influ5ces belong to all art2 & ?\gh ,i am anxi\s to conf9e myself to only "o section ( x1 ,i f9d x difficult to resi/ ! temptation to g5]alize & /ray f ! prescrib$ pa?1 :5 l>ge & important views are op5$ on e side1 z ,i travel on f po9t to po9t4 ,9 sket*+ ! hi/ory ( design1 z well z ,i may 9 s %ort a space1 x is only consid]$ 9 ! light 9 :i* x illu/rates our craft4 ,i repeat t ! design %\ld be in=m$ by ! motive :i* sugge/$ x1 & by ! ne$ :i* has call$ x =?2 & x mu/ be m\ld$ to ! space x has to fill1 & ! position x w occupy4 ,! design mu/ be modifi$ into diff]5t outw>d =ms1 accord+ to :e!r x is to be fitt$ to ! edge ( a build+ aga9/ ! sky2 to a high panell$ wall2 to be appli$ z a frieze1 or r\nd ! capital ( a pill>2 to ! embroid]$ cov] ( an alt>1 or ! silk5 hang+s ( a b$1 or ! fram$ flat spaces on ! walls ( a saloon4 ,9 fact1 int5tion1 place1 & %ape are necess>y motives & limits to a flat design4 ,leav+ aside all ar*itectural ornam5tation1 & adh]+ only to my own subject1 embroid]y1 ,i w limit my obs]vations to ! ?ree purposes "h sugge/$4 ,fir/ly1 z ! c5tral effect ( ! holie/ "p ( a *ur*2 secondly1 9 ! dome/ic & com=table room1 to be adorn$ & made *e]ful2 & ?irdly1 z deck+ ! ref9$ & gay saloon or banquet+-hall4 ,to ! *ur* we %\ld devote ! mo/ spl5did & effective contra/s1 to blaze unfram$ aga9/ d>k empty backgr\nds1 or amid/ /one & m>ble decorations2 some?+ set ap>t f its surr\nd+s1 & ass]t+ t sep>ation1 is ! desirable effect to be atta9$4 ,a totally diff]5t set ( rules come into play :5 we h to select ! decorations ( a b$room4 ,"h a backgr\nd does n exi/4 ,we are surr\nd$ by f\r walls v ne> to ! eye1 s t p]spectives are a second>y int]e/1 if inde$ !y c claim any consid]ation2 sev]e & magnific5t ornam5tation is out ( place1 except p]haps 9 t "t-hon\r$ in/itution--to be f\nd 9 e great h\se possess+ a suite ( reception-rooms--! ,/ate b$room1 :]e ! display ( hang+s & embroid]ies 0 ! fir/ motive ( ! decoration ( ! pa/1 clo?+ & g>ni%+ ! b>e spaces on ! l(ty walls4 ,space & sep>at5ess are n ! object or aim ( ! b$room ( to-day2 b lightness1 snugness1 & *e]ful com=t1 ) :i* ! design ( ! textile ornam5ts h mu* to d4 ,?is w 9 a lat] *apt] come "u ! head ( furniture4 ,= ! saloon we may accept any spl5d\r ( ri* & co/ly design1 & ! v>i\sly %ap$ panels assi/ 9 sugge/+ ! =m ( ! decoration4 ,! pla9 or m\ld$ panels1 call$ 9 ,italian t>ghe1 or %ields1 seem to be desc5d$ f ! actual %ields ( gold :i* ,solomon hung on ! walls ( ! k+'s h\se 9 ! ,=e/ ( ,lebanon4#id ,! motive 0 app>5tly ,tyrian1 & traces ( x are also to be f\nd 9 ,assyrian sculpture4#ie ,! practice ( fram+ ! design gives opportunities = *ange ( mat]ials1 col\r1 & patt]n1 p]mitt+ ! employm5t ( diff]5t flat surfaces laid on ea* o!r1 & scope = endless enri*m5t2 ! fram$ picture be+1 p]haps1 ! c5tral culm9at+ attraction1 cr[n+1 z x 71 ! textile ornam5tation4 ,i m]ely give ^! in/ances z illu/rat+ ! rule t we h m ?an once laid d[n1 t a design _c fitly be employ$ except 9 ! position = :i* ! arti/ has compos$ x4 ,i w1 h[ev]1 add t ?\gh x is "r to give due consid]ation to ! prep>ation ( ea* "w = its int5d$ use1 yet we (t5 h *>m+ sugge/ions (f]$ to u1 by ! *ance acquisition ( a beautiful arti/ic specim51 :i* f9ds its own place & accommodates itself to ! surr\nd+ col\rs & =ms4 ,^! are ! happy accid5ts ( :i* ! cultivat$ arti/ic eye takes advantage1 add+ !m to ! exp]i5ce :i* may help ^? :o are seek+ = ! rules ( h>mony & contra/ 9 design4 ,rese>* into ! my/]ies & pr9ciples ( design applies to wov5 arabesques & patt]ns1 & mu/ include ma*9e-made textile ornam5t1 & all decorative ne$lework4 ,x is1 9 fact1 ! fabric = ! million :i* mo/ especially ne$s ! c>eful /udy ( guid+ rules4 ,:5 a plant s5ds =? hundr$s ( w+$1 w9d-bl[n se$s1 l ! ?i/le1 x spreads itself ov] wide fields1 & is m mis*iev\s ?an a m noxi\s gr[?1 su* z ! deadly night%ade1 :i* only drops an occasional b]ry into ! e>?4 ,s a common *eap *9tz or c>pet1 ) a poor1 gaudy1 motiveless design1 c>ries a bad /yle into ?\s&s ( homes :]ev] our comm]ce ext5ds2 disgrac+ u1 :ile x corrupts ! ta/e ( o!r nations4 ,9 address+ our "y design]s1 ,i w\ld rem9d !m t 9 art ! race is n always to ! /rong4 ,prud5ce & educat$ p[]s1 ?\ghtfulness & /udy1 (t5 c>ry u :]e unassi/$ & uncultivat$ g5ius has signally fail$4 ,ev5 su* facilities z are af=d$ by ! acquirem5t ( freeh& draw+1 z taught 9 our s*ools ( art1 are n to be despis$4 ,! workman %\ld ?or\ghly ma/] 8 tools1 or !y w hamp] him4 ,! fir/ /ep t[>ds design is t y %\ld le>n to draw4 ,aft] ?is1 appreciation & obs]vation are necess>y1 & due balance 9 outl9e & col\r %\ld be /udi$2 & all ?is is z mu* ne$$ 9 draw+ a patt]n z 9 compos+ a picture4 ,! diff]5ce lies 9 our art be+ only decorative1 :]e9 beauty & fitness are to be rememb]$1 & no?+ else2 :]eas ! picture may h to record hi/orical facts1 or to inspire poetical ?\ghts--to awe or to t\* ! behold]4 ,a decorative design is only ask$ to delight him4 ,intellig5t delight1 h[ev]1 c only be evok$ by intellig5t art1 & to ?is1 decoration mu/ be subject$4 ,,footnotes3 #gc ,! e>lie/ art we "k 7! bone-scrat*+7 is naturali/ic & imitative4 ,we are unaw>e ( any attempt at a patt]n ( ! prehi/oric p]iod4 ,! lake cities are ( s vague a date t _! ornam5ts on pott]y are puzzl+ r ?an in/ructive4 ,! e>lie/ ,hell5ic pott]y 0 scrat*$ or pa9t$4 ,cuttle-fi%1 repeat$ ov] & ov] aga91 are among ! e>lie/ attempts at a patt]n1 by repetition ( a natural object4 ,naturalism soon fell into symbolism1 :i* appropriat$ x & all art1 & ! upheaval ( a new culture 0 ne$$ to lift x once m into ! region ( individual creation4 ,see ,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita92 also ,g5]al ,pitt ,riv]s's ,museum ( ,prehi/oric ,art1 lately pres5t$ to ! ,univ]sity ( ,ox=d4 #gd ,see ,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita94 #ge ,i hope1 inde$1 to enable !m 7! memb]s ( 8 class7 to read1 above all1 ! m9ds ( semi-b>b>\s nations 9 ! only language by :i* _! feel+s 7 capable ( expression2 & ^? ^: temp] incl9es !m to take a pleasure 9 my?ic symbols1 w n probably be induc$ to quit ! pr(\nd fields ( inve/igation :i* e>ly art w op5 to !m1 & :i* belong to x alone4 ,= ?is is a g5]al law1 t suppos+ ! intellect ( ! workman ! same1 ! m imitatively complete 8 art1 ! less he w mean by x1 & ! rud] ! symbol1 ! deep] ! int5tion4--,rusk9's ,ox=d ,lectures on ,art1 #ahgj1 p4 #ai4 #gf ,see ,isaac ,taylor's ,hi/ory ( ! ,alphabet4 #gg ,r5\f's ,hibb]t ,lectures1 #ahgi1 p4 #fg4 #gh ,n[ !re is a po9t ( view 9 :i* we may reg>d ! imitative art ( all races1 ! mo/ civiliz$ z well z ! mo/ b>b>\s--9 ref]5ce to ! p[] ( correctly repres5t+ animal & vegetable =ms1 su* z !y exi/ 9 nature4 ,! p]fection ( su* imitation dep5ds n s mu* on ! manual dext]ity ( ! arti/ z on 8 intellig5ce & compreh5sion ( ! type ( ! ess5tial qualities ( ! =m he desires to repres5t4 ,see ,*4 ,t4 ,newton's ,essays on ,art & ,ar*ology1 p4 #ag4 #gi ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians4 #hj ,plato's ,second ,book ( ,laws1 p4 #fef4 #ha ,! religion ( ! ,greeks p5etrat$ into _! in/itutions & daily life4 ,! my? 0 n only embodi$ 9 ! sculptures ( ,pheidias on ! ,p>!non1 & portray$ 9 ! pa9t+s ( ,polygnotus 9 ! ,/oa ,poikile2 x 0 repeat$ 9 a m comp5di\s & abbreviat$ =m on ! fictile vase ( ! ,a!nian h\sehold1 on ! co9 circulat$ 9 ! m>ket-place1 on ! mirror 9 :i* ! ,aspasia ( ! day beheld h] *>ms4 ,e dome/ic implem5t 0 made ! vehicle ( figurative language1 or fa%ion$ into a symbol4--,newton's ,essays on ,art & ,ar*ology1 p4 #bc4 #hb ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress1 by ,m4 ,*>les ,blanc1 =m]ly ,director ( ! ,fr5* ,in/itute4 ,eng4 ,trans41 ,*apman & ,hall1 ,london4 #hc ,see ,*>les ,blanc's ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress1 p4 #ca4 #hd ,*>les ,blanc's ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress1 p4 #dc4 #he ,*>les ,blanc's ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress1 pp4 #dc1 #de1 #df4 #hf ,*9ese design %[s naturali/ic art arre/$ & p]petuat$ on totally diff]5t pr9ciples4 ,_! repres5tations are all equally alli$ to _! art ( picture-pa9t+1 :e!r on *9a ) ! bru%1 or on textiles ) ! ne$le4 ,! flatness ( ! picture is /ill pres]v$ by _! ignorance ( p]spective4 ,:5 !y attempt$ to express diff]5t di/ances1 !y did s by plac+ !m "o above ano!r1 s t 9 read+ ! composition ! eye fir/ takes 9 ! di/ant horizon2 next bel[ x1 ! middle di/ance2 & be+ ?us prep>$1 x comes d[n to ! actual liv+ =egr\nd1 on :i* re/s ! dramatic action & int]e/ address$ to ! spectator4 ,! ,*9ese und]/ood _m ( ! secrets ( art1 yet nev] a*iev$ p]spective4 #hg ,see ,mr4 ,p5rose's "w on ! measurem5ts ( ! ,p>!non at ,a!ns4 ,publi%$ by ! ,society ( ! ,dilettanti4 #hh ,m>k$ outl9es 9 embroid]y add to ! flatness1 & enable u to omit ca/ %ad[s4 ,9 ?is x diff]s entirely f pictorial art1 :]e "o ( ! great objects is to avoid flatness4 #hi ,semp]'s !ory1 already m5tion$1 is t textile design 0 c]ta9ly flat2 t x 0 ! fir/ =m ( decoration1 & 0 foll[$ by bas-relief1 :i* c\ld n at once rid itself ( ! orig9al motive4 #ij ,aub]ville's ,ornam5tation des ,tissus 7elev5? c5tury74 #ia ,r$grave's ,manual ( ,design1 pp4 #dc-de4 #ib ,?is idolatr\s type 0 introduc$ into ,engl& by ! ,buccane]s1 & reflect$ on our c>v+s & embroid]ies ( ! "t ( ,james ,i41 slightly modifi$ by ! ,italian ,r5aissance ( t p]iod4 ,z ?is sort ( vulg> ornam5tation has once prevail$1 let u protect ourselves aga9/ its possible recurr5ce4 #ic ,:ile mak+ ?is pass+ allusion to ! !ory t ! orig9 ( all ,go?ic decoration is ma9ly f\nd$ on ! motive ( int]lac+ /ems & foliage1 ,i wi% to gu>d myself aga9/ be+ suppos$ 9 any way to argue aga9/ o!r beg9n+s1 :5ev] !y c be prov$4 ,i h said be=e t mo/ decorations h a mix$ ance/ry4 ,b :5 ,i see s+le or clu/]$ columns />t+ f ! gr\nd--spread+ at ! base l ! gn>l$ root1 & gr[+ till !y culm9ate 9 cr[ns ( foliage1 =m+ symmetrical capitals1 l ! fir/ clu/]s ( leaves on a /rong "y sapl+--!n ! bran*es spread+ & int]lac+1 only *eck$ at equal int]vals by a lovely leaf or burgeon1 till !y meet 9 blossoms on ! highe/ po9t ( ! ar*1--,i _c b adh]e to ! old idea t r[s ( trees meet+ ov]head sugge/$ ,go?ic ornam5t z well z ,go?ic ,ar*itecture4 ,! ,spani% or ,moresque ,go?ic 0 ov]load$ ) leaves & fl[]s1 & ! ,g]man ,go?ic 0 enri*$ ) fanta/ic trees & fl[]s1 ea* accord+ to its national ta/e & fa%ion4 ,a ,go?ic tree is a v conv5tional plant2 & g5]ally c>ries only "o leaf on ea* bran*4 ,i h giv5 a specim5 ( ar*aic trees f ! ,bayeux tape/ry4 ,!y are typical ( ! ,go?ic botanical idea & /yle d[n to ! f\rte5? c5tury4 7,fig4 #ac47 ,nor is ?is int]pretation ( ,go?ic design o!r ?an a result ( its desc5t f ! ,egyptian ance/ral motive1 :]e ! temple columns repres5t$ ! s+le /em ( ! lotus ) "o l>ge blossom = its capital1 or else a bundle ( /ems ( ! lotus1 palm1 & convolvulus fl[]+ toge!r into a beautiful clu/]4 ,ev5 ! gigantic columns ( ! great hyp?ral hall at ,k>nac are only a /up5d\s exagg]ation ( ! same /alk & fl[] motive4 ,f ^! 7 d]iv$ ! =ms ( ! e>ly ,greek column--soon enri*$ by sub/itut+ ! ,acan?us = ! ,lotus1 b (t5 reta9+ ! convolvulus4 #id #a ,k+s x42 ,ezek4 xxvii4 #aj1 #aa4 ,see ,/anley's ,lectures on ! ,jewi% ,*ur*4 #ie ,lay>d's ,n9eveh & its ,rema9s1 vol4 ii4 p4 #chh2 ,rawl9son's ,anci5t ,mon>*ies1 vol4 ii4 p4 #b4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,patt]ns4 ,9 ! la/ *apt] on design ,i h describ$ patt]ns z ! examples or illu/rations ( ! art ( decoration1 & z be+ ! records ( ! motives :i* produc$ !m 9 diff]5t eras4 ,my pres5t object is to class & def9e patt]ns z decorative art4 ,x is argu$ by "s ar*ologi/s t ! recurr5ce ( a patt]n1 = in/ance ! wave1 ov] ! :ole _w1 proves t x really came f _m s\rces1 "u ! same conditions ( life & art2 %[+ also t a patt]n is a ?+ t1 l a fl[]1 mu/ gr[1 if ! culture ( ! race be equal4 ,i d n believe ?is4 ,we c ne>ly always trace ! family hi/ory ( a patt]n to its orig9al motive2 & 9 ! v few cases :]e we are unable to d s1 x is h>dly necess>y to cov] our ignorance by /ret*+ ! fa%ionable !ory ( developm5t ov] ! few in/ances t are z yet unacc\ntable4 ,i h be5 repeat$ly ask$ to procure or to inv5t a new patt]n4 ,su* is my respect = ! decorative a*ievem5t call$ a patt]n1 t ,i _c hope = ! mom5t ( inspiration 9 :i* ,i might create su* a ?+4 ,if any "o has 9 8 lifetime inv5t$ a patt]n1 he has done some?+ truly rem>kable1 & z r>e z is a really orig9al ?\ght on any subject4 ,patt]ns are commonly1 l m51 ! result ( _m c5turies ( long desc5t f ance/ors ( remote antiquity4 ,individuals diff] f _! ance/ors ?r\gh inh]it$ & surr\nd+ conditions1 & ?r\gh ! modify+ p[]s ( evolution1 climate1 & education4 ,s also a patt]n has1 besides its ance/ry & desc5t1 ! unconsci\s m>k or seal ( its day2 & x is easy to trace :5ce x comes1 if we set ourselves to exam9e ! /yle ( x s]i\sly4 ,! patt]ns ( :i* we c ne>ly always "n at once ! nationality1 are ! ,assyrian1 ! ,*9ese1 ! ,egyptian1 ! ,h9du 7,aryan & ,turanian71 ! ,p]sian1 ! ,ar*aic & ! highly develop$ ,grecian2 ! ,roman1 ! ,celtic1 ! ,byzant9e1 ! ,arabian1 ! ,go?ic1 ! ,r5aissance1 ! ,spani% ,plt]esque1 ! ,l\is ,quatorze1 & ^? ( ! art ( ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,! patt]n _c exi/ )\t design4 ,design means int5tion & motive4 ,_m ( ! motives 9 ,ori5tal textile decorations are sugge/ive ( int5tion1 z is %[n by _! names4 ,among ,indian patt]ns we meet ) ripples ( silv]1 sun%9e & %ade1 pigeon's eye1 peacock's neck1 c4#if ,patt]ns mu/ be class$ ei!r by _! dates1 :5 asc]ta9$1 or accord+ to _! /yle1 :i* mu/ g5]ally be all[$ to cov] va/ areas & p]iods irregul>ly drift+ d[n1 ov]lapp+1 or be+ absorb$ or effac$ by ! circum/ances !y h enc\nt]$4 ,only :5 a national /yle has be5 ob/9ately fix$1 z 9 ,*9a1 & b\nd d[n by /rict laws & religi\s =mulas1 suit$ exactly to ! p = :om !y 7 evolv$ out ( ! national life1 & impr9t$ on x by _! own lawgiv]s1 philosoph]s1 & prie/s2 & nei!r impos$ by conqu]ors1 nor swept ov] by ! waves ( a new civilization2--only 9 su* cases c we f9d a cont9uity ( decorative art :i* leads u f> back on its traces4 ,!n1 on ?is long track1 we le>n h[ little1 man1 ! decorat+ animal1 has really advanc$ 9 8 p[]s ( creation4 ,he has gone m ?an once to a c]ta9 po9t1 & has !n ei!r be5 petrifi$ by law & cu/om--turn$ into a pill> ( salt1 l ,lot's wife1 because he has look$ back in/ead ( /riv+ to advance1 or else ?r\gh pov]ty or satiety has fall5 into ! la/ /age ( ! ,sev5 ,ages1 sans eyes1 sans tee?--sans ev]y?+4 ,:5 :at is good is nei!r p]ceiv$ nor desir$1 !n ! arts1 small & great1 dw9dle & disappe>1 & no?+ rema9s to %[ t !y h be51 b a "n1 & p]haps a patt]n4 ,*9ese design is ! mo/ /rik+ example ( ! fir/ ( ^! phases2 & ! ext9ction ( all classical art ) ! fall ( ,paganism 9 ,rome is an in/ance ( ! second4 ,9 ! *apt] on /yle x is said t a patt]n is z ineffaceable z a ^w4 ,b "o w occasionally disappe> = a "t1 till ! ru9 t cov]s x is cle>$ away1 & ! lo/ design recov]$ & employ$ simply z a decoration1 if x is beautiful2 or p]haps fitt$ ) a new mean+1 & s x makes a fre% />t4 ,! importance ( patt]ns1 :5 traceable to _! orig91 z a means ( inve/igat+ hi/orical influ5ces _c be too mu* insi/$ on1 & _! hi/ory is full ( sugge/ion z a guide to ! decorator4 ,mu* has be5 argu$ & mu* asc]ta9$ f ! evid5ce ( ^! fragm5ts ( national civilizations1 %[+ h[ an idea or a my? has be51 z x 71 engraft$ into ! ess5ce ( ano!r national idea1 p>tly alt]+ :at x f9ds1 & *ang+ to fit itself to its new surr\nd+s4 ,ea/]n patt]ns h travell$ f>1 & la/$ long2 & cont9ue /ill to hold ! fancy1 & ex]cise ! +5uity1 ( ! arti/ & decorator4 ,:5 we f9d a patt]n ( :i* ! nationality is /rongly m>k$1 x is wor? our :ile to asc]ta9 its date & hi/ory1 :i* w help u to recognize cognate design :]ev] we may meet x4 ,h[ev]1 ?is is (t5 n to be done2 & !n x is be/ to set ^! puzzl+ examples aside1 & to await pati5tly ! elucidation1 :i* may come f "s s\rce ( :i* we are z yet ignorant4 ,9 v e>ly art we h little rema9+ b patt]ns1 on :i* we may f\nd !ories by trac+ !m home to _! orig9al s\rce4 ,! olde/ patt]ns _h ea* a mean+ & an int5tion4 ,:5 a patt]n has be5 endur+ & f> spread1 x is because x 0 orig9ally ! expression ( an idea or a symbol4 ,9 ! e>lie/ dawn ( civilization1 ! arts 7 ! repositories ( ! my?s & my/]ies ( national fai?s4 ,embroid]y 0 "o ( ^! arts1 & ! bord] :i* edg$ ! g>m5t ( a div9ity1 ! veil :i* cov]$ ! grave ( a lov$ "o1 or ! fl[]-buds & fruit :i* fr+$ ! hang+s & curta9s 9 ! sanctu>y1 ea* _h a mean+1 & !re=e a use4 ,^! symbolical designs & =ms 7 con/antly reproduc$2 & all human +5uity 0 ex]cis$ 9 re=m+1 remodell+1 & add+ p]fect grace to ! expression ( ! same idea4 99 99 99 99 99 ,patt]ns may be rang$ "u f\r heads--! ,primitive1 ! ,naturali/ic1 ! ,conv5tional1 & ! ,geometrical4 ,! primitive are ^? ( :i* we "k n ! ance/ry1 & r>ely c guess ! motive4 ,to u !y are1 9 g5]al1 simply rude decorations4 ,! naturali/ic are ^? :i* are borr[$ f natural =ms1 & are ei!r only imitative1 or else convey "s hidd5 mean+4 ,! conv5tional are ^? :i*1 by long desc5t1 h come to be accept$ simply z ornam5tal art1 ) or )\t ref]5ce to an orig9al motive1 n[ lo/4 ,! geometrical or symmetrical are f\nd$ on =m only1 & 9 s f> resemble our exp]i5ce ( ! primitive2 !y express no mean+1 & only s]ve to satisfy ! eye by _! balance & _! +5uity4 ,,primitive4 ,! fir/ patt]n$ =ms ) :i* we are acqua9t$ are ! primitive4 ,!y are f\nd 9 all p>ts ( ! inhabit$ _w4 ,9 our pres5t ignorance z to ! beg9n+s ( ! scatt]$ tribes ( m51 we _c judge if ^! are ! rema9s ( an e>li] art or ! fir/ g]ms ( a new "o4 ,( "o ?+ !re is no d\bt3 ?is primitive decoration consi/s entirely ( patt]n2 t is to say1 ( ! repetition ( c]ta9 7to u7 inexpressive =ms1 :i* by reit]ation assume importance & 9 "s degree express beauty--! beauty ( :at ,monsieur ,blanc calls cad5ce4 ,aft] ^! fir/ un9telligible =ms1 :i* simply by repetition become accept$ patt]ns1 come ^? call$ ! ,prehi/oric1 ( :i* we "k or guess some?+ z to _! orig9al mean+1 & :i*1 hav+ be5 r$uc$ f ! hi]oglyphic-symbolical to ! conv5tional1 h ?us cry/alliz$ !mselves1 by con/ant use1 into a patt]n4 ,su*1 = in/ance1 is ! simple/ =m ( ! wave patt]n1 :i* 9 v e>ly art 0 a repres5tation ( wat]4 ,! prehi/oric wat] or wave patt]ns _h o!r =ms2 = in/ance1 zigzags1 upright or horizontal1 & undulat+ l9es :i* are intelligible z express+ smoo? or r\gh wat]4 ,9 g5]al1 h[ev]1 ! primitive & prehi/oric patt]ns convey no idea1 & consi/1 z we h said else:]e1 ( l9es1 /raight or wavy1 sometimes int]sect$2 ( angles1 zigzags1 gr\ps ( dots1 r+s & little discs1 & crosses ( ! ,swa/ika %ape4 7,plate #aj47 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #aj4 ,,wave ,,patt]ns4 #a1 #d1 #i1 #ab1 #ac4 ,greek ,wave ,patt]ns4 #b4 ,key or ,m&]1 ,greek ,wave4 #c4 ,greek ,brok5 ,wave4 #e1 #f1 #g4 ,egyptian ,smoo? & ,rippl+ ,wat] ,patt]ns4 #h4 ,m$ival ,wave4 #aj1 #aa1 #ad4 ,assyrian4 #ae4 ,p]sian or ,greek 7f ,glass ,b[l1 ,briti% ,museum74 #af4 ,engli% ,waves 7,durham ,embroid]ies47 ,:]e %all ! t>tan be plac$8 ,x is c]ta9ly primitive1 & app>5tly _h no int5tion beyond t ( employ+ z _m col\r$ ?reads z !re 7 dyes1 s z to =m ! brighte/ contra/s1 or else to be z invisible z possible ei!r 9 ! sun%9e or 9 ! %ade4 ,! ,gauls br\ght ?is k9d ( weav+ ) !m f ! ,ea/1 & probably inv5t$ ! patt]n1 if su* a motiveless design c be s call$4 ,x _h its classical "n1 ,polymita1 & 0 admir$ 9 ,rome :5 newly import$1 z be+ some?+ orig9al & b>b>ic4 ,! ,romans f\nd x 9 ,brita91 & ,boadicea wore a t>tan dress on ! day ( h] defeat4 ,p]haps ev5 !n fa%ions came f ,france1 & x may h be5 h] be/ tunic f across ! ,*annel4 ,?is fabric may h be5 import$ by ! ,belgic ,gauls1 & 0 s easily wov5 on h\se looms1 t x became 9 "t ! feudal dress ( ! ,scotti% tribes & clans1 & ! col\rs 7 +5i\sly arrang$ to %[ ! mo/ diff]5t effects4 ,! t>tan has always be5 a res\rce = ! wooll5 trade1 & ! fa%ion con/antly recurs 9 ,france1 ei!r f s5tim5t or ! actually inh]it$ ,gallic ta/e2 b x rema9s a primitive patt]n1 & no?+ c make x arti/ic4 ,no embroid]y c s(t5 ! con/antly recurr+ angles1 & only fr+es c be employ$ to decorate a t>tan co/ume4 ,pl9y tells u ( ! +5uity ( ,zeuxis1 :o1 to %[ 8 weal?1 _h 8 "n embroid]$ 9 gold 9 ! squ>$ comp>tm5ts ( 8 out] g>m5t4#ig ,primitive patt]ns /ill l+] 9 _m savage nations1 b especially ?r\gh\t unciviliz$ ,africa4 ,curi\s to say1 ! v anci5t fossiliz$ e>ly art ( ,egypt does n assi/ u to trace x back to a prehi/oric /yle1 ?\gh x may lead u into prehi/oric times4 ,,naturali/ic4 ,! phases ( ! naturali/ic patt]ns are con/antly recurr+4 ,art is always t5d+ to realism1 9 ! laudable ef=t to rea* ! motive )\t ! %ackles ( rules4 ,ea* phase has fall5 a prey to symbolism1 to conv5tionalism1 or to mann]ism1 :i* la/ symptom m>ks ! decl9e & fall ( art4 ,we %all f9d ^! phases ev]y:]e 9 ! design ( patt]ns4 ,naturalism has always /riv51 by simple repetition1 to r$uce to patt]ns ! =ms ( fl[]s1 fruits1 animals1 birds1 insects1 reptiles1 & o!r natural objects4 ,9 fl[] patt]ns ! simple/ =ms by repetition make sometimes ! ri*e/ patt]ns1 & ! mo/ effective4 7,plate #aa1 ,nos4 #a & #b47 ,x is rem>kable t "o v beautiful class ( natural objects is r>ely employ$ 9 anci5t decoration#ih--%ells & corals4 ,! b>b>\s tribes ( ! ,we/ ,coa/ ( ,africa alone seem to h appreciat$ _! =ms1 & add$ !m to _! small rep]tory ( naturali/ic patt]ns4 ,!y d n appe> 9 any ,european or ,asiatic textiles till ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 %ells 7 mu* us$ 9 ! decorations ( ! reigns ( ,que5 ,anne & ,l\is ,quatorze4 ,! fir/ *ange f naturalism into ! conv5tional 0 ?r\gh symbolism1 & belong$ to ! "t :5 unwritt5 ?\ght 0 fir/ record$ by pictur$ signs1 :i* !n ceas$ to be m]ely decoration4 ,we f9d t ! naturalism ( ! e>lie/ ,egyptians & ,asiatics 0 soon entirely absorb$ by ! ef=t to express "s hidd5 mean+ or my/]y1 & !n to fit ! repres5tation to a special place & purpose1 & to re/ore x1 z x 71 to decorative art4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #aa4 #a4 ,p]sian ,fl[] ,bord]4 #b4 ,egyptian ,bord]1 compos$ ( ,head-dress ( ! god ,nile 7,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians74 #c4 ,assyrian4 #d4 ,assyrian4 ,! lotus & ! patt]ns f\nd$ on its =ms1 & ! _m emblematic mean+s atta*$ to !m1 are notable examples ( ^! transmutations 9 /yle & int5tion1 & ( ! value giv5 to _! int5tion & use 9 ,egypt & ,india1 :]e ea* developm5t 0 imm$iately cry/alliz$ into a recogniz$ patt]n1 & giv5 its place & language4 ,x receiv$ its mot d'ordre1 & cont9u$ to act ^u x long aft] ! mean+ 0 =gott5 or out ( date4 ,! roll+ patt]n :i* _h s long repres5t$ only ! wave1 0 giv5 to ! really /raight /em ( ! lotus1 & its blossom1 sub/itut$ = ! wave's cre/1 n[ fill$ _m a frieze 9 ,indian temple ar*itecture2 :]eas ! lotus /ems 9 ,egypt 7 /ill b\nd 9 %eaves to =m columns1 & ! fl[]s1 buds1 & leaves spread & blossom$ into capitals4 ,"h we h symbolism & conv5tionaliz$ naturalism1 all comb9$1 %[+ h[ _! pr9ciples1 ?\gh q di/9ct1 c mix & unite4 ,! conv5tional =m (t5 sup]s$$ & effac$ ! naturali/ic1 & became ! sign ( an idea1 or ! hi]oglyphic picture ( a ?+2 immovable & unalt]able 9 ,egypt1 :]e e ef=t 0 made to secure et]nity on e>?1 b cont9ually return+ to naturalism 9 ,india1 :]e ! ,aryan t5d5cy1 ) ! assi/ance ( ! ,code ( ,manu1 always recurr$ to ! re/oration ( ! anci5t naturali/ic motive4 ,9 ! ,india ,museum we may see ! wave motive conv]t$ into a lotus patt]n by roll+ ! long /ems1 & fill+ up ! spaces betwe5 ) ! full-fac$ blossom4 ,sometimes ! patt]n is />t$ by ! figure ( an elephant1 f ^: m\? ! /em ( ! fl[] ( ! sun proce$s4 ,?is occurs s (t5 t x mu/ orig9ally h _h a mean+4 ,sometimes ! sacr$ convolvulus takes ! place ( ! lotus4 7,plate #ab47 ,on an ,egyptian mural pa9t+ are se5 p>ties ( m5 sn>+ ducks among papyrus & lotus plants4 ,^! are entirely conv5tional1 & are1 9 fact1 a sort ( recogniz$ hi]oglyphic repres5t+ ! idea ( a lotus4#ii ,! lotus 0 ! accept$ emblem ( ! sun1 & r$uc$ to a _m-leav$ radiat+ patt]n may be f\nd z an ar*itectural ornam5t on ! outside ( ! ,buddhi/ topes1 ( :i* ! models are on ! /aircase ( ! ,briti% ,museum4#ajj 7,plate #ac47 ,we h ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's au?ority = believ+ t1 ?\gh ! actual lotus 0 a native ( ,india1 & c>ri$ !nce to ,egypt1 its decorative use z a patt]n 0 ,egyptian1 & s return$ to ,india4 ,bo? accept$ x z _! sunfl[]4#aja ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ab4 #a4 ,indian ,roll+ ,lotus ,patt]n4 #b1 #c4 ,indian ,lotus ,patt]ns4 #d1 #e4 ,egyptian ,lotus ,patt]ns4 #f4 ,sacr$ ,convolvulus4 ,indian 7sev5te5? c5tury74 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ac4 #a1 #b4 ,indian ,designs ( ,assyrian ,daisy & ,egyptian ,lotus4 #c4 ,vitruvian ,scroll4 ,vignola4 ,ar*itecture4 ,c x be our ,aryan desc5t :i* induces 9 u ! e>ne/ adoration1 9 our art ( to-day1 ( our nor!rn prototype ( ! sun's emblem8 ,i fe> t we mu/ ackn[l$ge t our /hetic wor%ip ( our sunfl[]s is some:at false & affect$4 /heticism is n art4 ,sunfl[]s1 pa9t$ or embroid]$ z decoration1 d n take if !y are ord]$ & rang$1 & r$uc$ to a patt]n l ^? ( ,egypt4 ,!y mu/ be naturali/ic1 &1 if possible1 rem9d u ( a disord]ly cottage g>d52 :]eas 9 ,india !y 7 adapt$ f nature on fix$ pr9ciples1 :i* imm$iately r$uc$ !m to ! conv5tional4 ,illu/ration3 ,sunfl[] patt]n1 ,r4 ,s4 ,a4 ,n4 ,,xix4 ,c5tury ,i give an illu/ration ( a ,go?ic sunfl[] resembl+ a transfigur$ rose2 & ano!r ( an ord]$ naturali/ic sunfl[] patt]n1 f a design ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework4 7,plate #ad47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,go?ic ,sunfl[]4 ,f ,*ri/'s ,college ,*apel1 ,cambridge4 ,i h giv5 ?is acc\nt ( ! patt]ns f\nd$ on ! lotus1 z we c almo/ f ?is di/ance ( "t take a bird's-eye view ( its rise 9 naturalism1 its spread1 disp]sion1 & its cry/allization into conv5tional =ms2 also we c trace h[ ! lotus patt]ns ( ,indian art h result$1 :5 accept$ 9 ,europe1 9 no?+ b ! roll+ wave1 c>ry+ fl[] =ms :i* no long] repres5t a lotus2 & h[ ! lotus bud & fl[] patt]n has become 9 "t ! classical egg & tongue2 :i*1 h[ev]1 may h result$ also f a comb9ation ( o!r motives4 ,repres5tations ( animal =ms are sometimes v rem>kable 9 phases ( naturalism4 ,! few rema9s ( ,celtic art t h surviv$ are entirely animal1 or v ne>ly s4 ,9 _! /one1 gold1 silv]1 & bronze "w1 & 9 illum9at$ ,,mss41 we meet ) only animal =ms2 nev] a fl[] or a leaf4 ,besides ! ,indo-,*9ese patt]ns 9 ,celtic art1 :i* sugge/ ! ,*9ese lattice-"w 7s /rongly insi/$ on by ,semp] z a con/ant motive71 we also f9d 9 all _! decorations comp>tm5ts conta9+ involv$ patt]ns ( cords or /r+s knitt$ or plait$1 sugge/+ ! entrails ( animals1 :i* by ^! hunt+ p 7 consult$ z be+ my/]i\sly prophetic ( approa*+ ev5ts1 especially success or failure 9 ! *ase1 & imp5d+ w>like raids4#ajb ,!re is no o!r way ( acc\nt+ = ^! designs1 :i* are peculi> to ! race1 unless we believe !y always repres5t snakes4 7,pl4 #ae47 ,9 ,engl& mu* t 0 *>act]i/ic ( ! /yle 0 lo/ z soon z ! ,saxons drove out ! ,celts1 :o c>ri$ x to ,irel&1 z may be se5 9 ! ,book ( ,kells1 & ! c>v+ ( ! ,h>p ( ,t>a1 & ! ,celtic jewels 9 ! ,iri% museums2 b ! int]lac+ patt]ns surviv$ ?r\gh\t ,anglo-,saxon art1 & 7 m>vell\sly +5i\s & beautiful2 witness ! ,durham ,book ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,we h no ,celtic textiles rema9+ to u1 unless "s embroid]y 9 ! ,m>i5-,kir*e collection at ,dantzic may be ( t /yle & "t4 ,?is is sugge/$ by its altoge!r ,indo-,*9ese & v b>b>\s "*2#ajc & "o ( ! coronation mantles 9 ,bock's ,kle9odi5 is ,runic 9 its peculi> s]p5t design4 ,illu/ration3 ,illum9ation f ! ,l9disf>ne ,gospels1 ab\t ,a4,d4 #gjj ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #af4 ,demet]4 ,f a ,greek ,vase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,judg+ f _! illum9at$ ,,mss41 x is said1 ! elem5ts borr[$ f textile art by ! ,celts are plaits1 b[s1 zigzags1 knots1 geometrical figures 9 v>i\s symmetrically develop$ comb9ations1 crosses1 :orls1 & lattice-"w2 next1 ^? tak5 f metal "w1 su* z spirals & nail-heads let into bord]s2 ?irdly1 simple or composite zoomorphic =ms1 su* z bodies ( snakes1 birds' heads on long necks1 liz>ds1 dogs1 dragons1 & ! l4#ajd ,!y well und]/ood h[ to make a patt]n by ! repetition ( objects ( any class4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ag4 #a4 ,embroid]y on a ,greek ,mantle1 ?ird c5tury ,b4,c41 f ! ,tomb ( ! ,sev5 ,bro!rs1 ,crimea4 #b4 ,egyptian ,pa9t$ & ,embroid]$ ,l954 ,! cone1 ! bead1 ! daisy1 ! wave1 ! lotus "u wat]1 are all %[n on ?is fragm5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ah4 ,,egyptian ,,tape/ry4 #a4 ,wov5 & embroid]$ on a ,sleeve4 #b4 ,wov5 & embroid]$4 #c4 ,pa9t$ & embroid]$4 ,repres5tations ( human figures 9 embroid]ies probably orig9at$ 9 hang+s = ! wall2 b h be5 treat$ z decorative =ms1 bo? by ! ,indians & ! ,greeks1 = we>+ app>el4 ,! peplos ( ,m9]va 0 bord]$ ) fight+ gods & giants1 & ! ,empress ,!odora's dress 9 ! ,rav5na mosaic repeats exactly ! same motive4 7,see ,fig4 #d1 & ,pl4 #f47 ,!re are two o!r examples ( su* ,greek patt]ns4 ,! mantle ( ,demet] on a ,greek vase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ( ! be/ p]iod 7,pl4 #af71 is embroid]$ ) fly+ g5ii & victori\s *>iots2 & ! embroid]$ mantle lately f\nd 9 a ,crimean tomb1 is ( precisely ! same /yle ( design1 & ! "o illu/rates ! o!r4 ,^! in/ances are s exceptional1 t x is curi\s t "h1 z 9 ! case ( ! peplos1 9 ea* case !re %\ld happ5 to be a duplicate4 7,plates #af & #ag1 ,no4 #a47 ,9 ,babylonian1 ,assyrian1 & ,*aldean art we con/antly f9d animal =ms 9 patt]ns4 ,! lion & ! h>e1 birds & insects1 are ! commone/2 & !re are "s in/ances ( human figures r$uc$ to a patt]n 9 ^! sculptur$ repres5tations ( textiles4 7,plate #b47 ,!re are curi\sly wov5 little human figures f9i%$ ) ! ne$le on ! sleeve ( an ,egyptian dress 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 f ,sacc>ah 7,pl4 #ah71 &1 ( c\rse1 :5 su* a design is small1 x ceases to be v objectionable4 ,on ! :ole1 h[ev]1 naturali/ic designs = embroid]ies are m safely conf9$ to floral decorations1 except+ always flat tape/ries = walls1 :i*1 repres5t+ pictures1 may be z naturali/ic z _! purpose & /yle w admit4 ,animal =ms are (t5 r$uc$ to patt]ns by repetition 9 ,indian & ,p]sian embroid]y4#aje ,! draw+ is naturali/ic1 b ! col\r+ is fanciful4 ,we may see any day1 on ,p]sian rugs1 sc>let lions pursu+ & captur+ blue or yell[ h>es4 ,! flatness & want ( all %ad[s t5ds to ! conv5tional4 ,lions1 bulls1 cats1 beetles1 & s]p5ts ab\nd especially 9 ,egyptian design2 insects1 reptiles1 & fi% 9 ,asiatic patt]ns1 :]e animals are sometimes made to walk 9 pairs1 ) _! heads & tails twi/$ into a patt]n4 ,?\gh l&scapes are s r>ely work$ t ! subject is1 p]haps1 h>dly wor?y ( notice1 yet su* mi/ak5 specim5s ( +5uity h occurr$4 ,an alt> frontal 0 exhibit$ at ,zuri*1 9 #ahhc1 conta9+ "s really exquisitely work$ l&scapes1 :i* 7 q out ( place1 bo? z art & z decoration1 = an ecclesia/ical purpose4 ,?is 0 ( ! beg9n+ ( ! la/ c5tury4#ajf ,:ile we appreciate & %\ld take advantage ( our national t5d5cy to naturali/ic design1 we mu/ bew>e ( look+ on fix$ rules z bonds :i* cramp our lib]ty1 & ( ?9k+ t nature %\ld be our only guide to an o!rwise unassi/$ & unfett]$ inspiration4 ,)\t ! :olesome *ecks ( exp]i5ce & educat$ ta/e1 & ! k :i* tea*es u :at to avoid1 z well z :at to imitate1 f\nd$ on ! successes & failures ( o!rs1 we fall into weak imitations ( natural objects4 ,mr4 ,r$grave po9ts out h[ unpleasant & j>r+ to our s5se ( :at is appropriate1 & !re=e h[ (f5sive to good ta/e & common s5se1 x is to tread on a c>pet ( wat]-lilies swimm+ 9 blue pools1 or on fruits & fl[]s heap$ up & ca/+ %ad[s probably t[>ds ! light4#ajg ,wooll5 lions & tig]s1 z l>ge z life1 bask+ be=e ! fire 9 a wrea? ( roses1 are al>m+ r ?an agreeable1 & are ( ! nature ( a practical joke 9 art4 ,x is ! se>* = novelty 9 naturalism t leads to su* a/oni%+ compositions2 & ^!1 be+ successively reject$ 9 ! he>t ( our civilization & culture1 are drift$ away to vulg>ize our colonies1 or to be sold *eap to furni% ,cont95tal hotels1 & make ! ,engli% travell] blu% = 8 home manufactures4 ,,symbolical ,,& ,,conv5tional4 ,?\gh x is true t ! highe/ art1 pictorial & sculptural1 is always /ruggl+ t[>ds naturalism1 ! art ( decoration is1 by its nature1 con/antly t5d+ to conv5tionalism4 ,patt]ns1 if n absolutely geometrical or naturali/ic1 mu/ be class$ "u ?is pr9ciple4 ,let u exam9e :at is meant by a conv5tional patt]n4 ,x may be said t ! conv5tional includes e =m--! symbolic1 ! naturali/ic1 or ev5 ! hi]oglyphic--t is select$ & consecrat$ to convey a c]ta9 idea4 ,! lily ( ,flor5ce1 :i* is some?+ betwe5 a lily & an iris1 b unlike ei!r1 is a conv5tional =m2 likewise ! lily ( ,france1 :i* x is said 0 once a conv5tional frog4 ,! rose ( ,engl&1 ! %amrock1 & ! ?i/le h always be5 m naturali/ic ?an is usual 9 su* h]aldic designs2 b ! p>ti-col\r$ rose ( ,york & ,lanca/] 0 decid$ly conv5tional1 & h]aldic4 ,conv5tional patt]ns n[ are ^? :i*1 hav+ be5 orig9ally naturali/ic 9 /yle1 b p]haps emblematic z to _! motive1 h be5 repeat$ till ! mean+ & =m h be5 lo/2 or else1 z 9 ! case ( ! lotus1 ! emblem is =gott51 & no?+ rema9s b ! recogniz$ conv5tional =m4 ,"o conv5tional patt]n :i*1 hav+ comm5c$ by be+ a symbol1 has be5 repeat$ & v>i$ till x has all[$ ! orig9al ess5tial mean+ to escape1 is ! palm-leaf or cone patt]n on ,fr5* or ,paisley %awls1 :i*1 hav+ be5 a sacr$ emblem--! tree ( life--9 ,p]sia1 became 9 ,europe1 :5 ! religi\s my? 0 lo/1 only a %awl patt]n--m]ely a leaf1 ) plant pa9t$ )9 its outl9es4 7,plate #bc1 ,nos4 #aj1 #aa47 ,decorative designs become conv5tional 9 spite ( ! int5tion ( ! design]4 ,he is ov]rul$ by ! spaces to be cov]$ & ! mat]ials to be employ$4 ,8 design mu/ produce a flat patt]n2 he mu/ repeat x aga9 & aga92 he mu/ give x a /rong outl9e2 he mu/ di/ribute x regul>ly at c]ta9 int]vals4 ,repetition at once conv5tionalizes ! mo/ naturali/ic draw+1 & ! mo/ sacr$ & my/]i\s emblem4 ,alt]nation is equally a s\rce ( conv5tionalism4 ,!re is no motive t _c be conv5tionaliz$ into a patt]n by repetition4 ,a ,go?ic cr[n & a true lily1 repeat$1 w make an ecclesia/ical conv5tional patt]n4 ,!n come all ! ,arabian & ,moresque =ms 7:i* are mo/ly geometric71 & also ! ,go?ic 7:i* are p>tly geometric & p>tly naturali/ic1 especially ^? 9 ,g]man & debas$ ,spani% & ,portuguese ,go?ic design74 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ai4 #a4 ,key ,patt]n4 #b4 ,brok5-up ,key4 #c4 ,beads4 #d4 ,key & sign ( ,l&4 #e4 ,wave & ,babylonian ,daisy4 #f4 ,key & ,fundata4 #g4 ,wave & ,bead4 #h4 ,wave & ,daisy4 #i4 ,key & ,sun ,cross4 ,^! ,key ,patt]ns f ,ceil+ ( a ,tomb at ,sacc>ah1 9 ,egypt4 7,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians47 ,!n we mu/ accept z conv5tional all ^? :i* may be call$ kaleidoscope patt]ns1 :i* are brok5 fragm5ts ( old motives1 repeat$ or radiat$ s z to become p>tly geometrical1 :olly conv5tional4 7,see ,pl4 #ag1 ,no4 #b47 ,conv5tional patt]ns may be r$uc$ into ?ree k9ds4 ,fir/1 ! naturali/ic1 :i* h by repetition be5 adapt$ = decorative art4 ,secondly1 ! symbolical--,pagan or ,*ri/ian1 religi\s or hi/orical1 includ+ ! ,h]aldic4 ,?irdly1 ^? conv5tional =ms :i* may nev] h _h any inn] mean+1 or else1 hav+ orig9ally _h "o1 h lo/ x4 ,all ^! exi/1 sometimes ap>t & sometimes m+l$2 s t "s ?\ght mu/ be exp5d$ 9 seek+ ! motive :i* has br\ght !m toge!r1 & f9d+ 9 ea* ! int]nal evid5ce ( its desc5t4 ,x is evid5t t patt]ns1 conv5tionaliz$ & br\ght f di/ant s\rces1 sometimes meet & amalgamate4 ,:5 ! orig9 ( a conv5tional patt]n is disput$1 x is wor? :ile to exam9e if x has a d\ble p>5tage4 ,let me give1 z an in/ance1 ! key patt]n4 ,x may h be51 z ,semp] believes1 orig9ally ,*9ese1 & d]iv$ f wick]-"w design4 ,x repres5ts also ! brok5 or dislocat$ wave1 ! symbol ( ! ,riv] ,m&]1#ajh & = wat] g5]ally4 ,we f9d x ev]y:]e 9 company ) ! wave1 :i* nev] c\ld h _h any connection ) wick]-"w1 n only 9 ,*9a1 b 9 ,p]sia1 ,india1 ,egypt1 ,arabia1 ,greece1 ,rome1 & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 7,pl4 #ai47 ,c any inv5tion ( man %[ a m symbolical int5tion ?an ! wave patt]n8 ,! airy leap drawn d[nw>ds by ! =ce ( gravitation2 controll$1 & aga9 made to return1 b /rong to insi/ on its own curve ( pr$ilection1 ru%+ back "u ! same circle2 /r5g!n$ by ! d[nw>d movem5t to spr+ aga9 f its orig9al plane2 beg9n+ afre% its ,sisyphus lab\r1 & fac+ ! next ef=t ) ! same grace & agility4 ,undy+ =ce1 & et]nal fl[+ unre/--^! are ! evid5t int5tion & symbol ( ! wave patt]n4 ,?\gh ,i believe ! key patt]n to be a modification ( ! wave =m1 yet ! lock+ & unlock+ movem5t sugge/s a repetition ( ! ,tau1 or key ( life4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,:5 we admire ! friezes ( g>l&s hung betwe5 ! skulls ( ox5 & goats1 we _c = a mom5t d\bt ! sacrificial idea on :i* ! design 0 f\nd$4 ,:5 ! wrea?s are c>ri$ by danc+ *ildr51 we recognize ! imp]sonation ( ! rejoic+ ( ! ddal e>?4 ,! ,greeks1 h[ev] /rongly !y ex]t$ !mselves to ?r[ (f ! %ackles ( conv5tionality 9 sculpture1 pa9t+1 & ar*itecture1 yet yield$ to ! traditional =ce ( ! symbolical patt]n1 & accept$ mo/ ( ! ,ori5tal =ms1 m]ely remodell+ !m = _! own use1 & add+ to _! significance :at _! culture requir$2 at ! same "t giv+ inf9ite v>iety1 z _! p]fect ta/e dictat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bj4 ,,trees ,,( ,,life4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #e4 ,assyrian4 #d4 ,sicilian ,silk4 7,birdwood's ,indian ,arts1 pp4 #cca1 #cce1 #ccf1 #ccg47 ,ari/ophanes1 9 ,! ,frogs1 laughs at ! ,p]sian c>pet patt]ns--_! unnatural birds & bea/s & fl[]s--:il/ he claims = 8 own frogs1 t !y at lea/ h ! m]it ( be+ natural4#aji ,?is little t\* ( art ?r[s a gleam ( inn] light on ! /ruggle t[>ds orig9ality & tru? :i* *>act]iz$ ! ,greek pr9ciples ( beauty & fitness 9 lit]ature & art1 9 direct contra/ to t :i* 0 always turn+ back to ^? fossil =ms :i* 7 only respectable on acc\nt ( _! age & _! my/]y1 b ( :i* ! tradition & int5tion 7 already lo/4 ,roman patt]ns 7 m]ely ,greek adaptations ) an ,etruscan flav\r1 :i* 0 a survival ( ! e>lie/ ,italian art4 ,p]haps ! indig5\s elem5t _h be5 already modifi$ by ,phnician influ5ce4 ,9 tak+ /ock ( ,ori5tal symbolical patt]ns1 we f9d t "o ( ^? ( ! wide/ ance/ry & longe/ cont9uity is ! ,sacr$ ,hom4#aaj 7,pl4 #bj-bd47 ,?is is to be f\nd 9 ,babylonian1 ,p]sian1#aaa ,indian1 ,greek1 & ,roman art2 & consequ5tly x prevails 9 all ,european decoration 7except ! ,go?ic71 :]e x 0 r$uc$ to unrecognizable =ms4 ,sir ,george ,birdwood says ! ,hom or ,homa 0 ! ,sanskrit ,soma1 us$ z an intoxicat+ dr9k by ! e>ly ,brahm9s1 & 0 extract$ f ! plant ( t "n1 an almo/ leafless succul5t ,asclepiad4 ,x appe>s to h *ang$ its conv5tional =m z o!r plants by f]m5tation came to ! front1 conta9+ :at appe>$ to be ! _s ( life--! aqua vit4 ,! palm1 ) its wond]ful fruit1 :i* is conv]tible into intoxicat+ dr9ks1 & aft]w>ds ! v9e itself1 7 ea* ( !m m\ld$ into analog\s conv5tional fruit =ms1 :i* keep z mu* z possible )9 ! limits ( ! orig9al cone %ape4 7,pl4 #ba47 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ba4 #a4 ,tree ( ,life & ,lions4 ,gate ( ,myc54 #b4 ,p]sian or ,sicilian ,silk4 ,tree ( ,life & ,leop>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bb4 #a4 ,split ,lotus ,fruit on ,*9ese ,b[l4 #b4 ,split ,lotus resembl+ ,tree ( ,life4 ,frieze by ,b5ozzo ,gozzoli1 ,ric>di ,palace1 ,flor5ce4 #c4 ,petal ( ,fl[] on ,glass ,b[l f ,s\!rn ,italy4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,!re is a palm-tree :i* absolutely c>ries a cone 9 ! he>t ( its cr[n ( fronds4#aab ,?is may h help$ to pres]ve ! orig9al motive ( ! sacr$ tree ( life4 ,! cone =m 9 classical art 0 drawn f ! p9e cone & ! arti*oke2 & 9 m$ival art ^! 7 sometimes replac$ by ! pomegranate1 & 9 ! late ,r5aissance by ! p9e-apple1 newly arriv$ f ! ,we/ ,indies4#aac ,x is a good example ( ! bl5d+ ( "o vegetable =m into ano!r1 mak+ ! sequ5ce1 ( :i* ea* phase 9 ! ,ea/ _h an hi/orical cause or a symbolical mean+1#aad b :i* 9 ,europe _h gradually lo/ all motive1 & 0 simply an ackn[l$g$ decorative =m4#aae ,9 ar*itectural ornam5t x is call$ ! honeysuckle1#aaf :i* x _h gr[n to resemble 9 ! days ( ,greece4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bc4 ,diff]5t =ms ( ,tree ( ,life1 f ,sicilian ,silks4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bd4 ,mod]n ,embroid]y f ! ,pr9cipalities1 9 :i* ! cone-%ap$ tree gr[s into a v9e1 & ! two animals at ! foot h lo/ _! %ape & int5tion4 ,?is sacr$ tree1 ! ,homa ( ,zoroa/] & ( ! lat] ,p]sians1 has s e>ly a beg9n+ t we f9d x on ,assyrian monum5ts4#aag ,rock says t1 p]haps1 x /ood = ! tree ( life1 :i* grew 9 ,p>adise4 ,x is repres5t$ z a subject ( homage to m5 & animals1 & x inv>iably /&s betwe5 prie/s & k+s1 or bea/s kneel+ to x4 ,x is figur$ on ! small bucket = religi\s rites1 c>ri$ 9 ! h&s1 or embroid]$ 9 ! upp] sleeve ( ! mon>*'s tunic4 ,x always repres5ts a %rub1 sometimes be>+ a s]ies ( umbels ( sev5 fl[]s ea*4 7,pl4 #b1 #bj47 ,sometimes ! expression ( ! symbol is r$uc$ to ! cone-fruit ( ! homa alone2 or ev5 to a blossom1 z 9 ! two glass b[ls 9 ! ,slade collection 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 f a tomb at ,*iusi1 9 ,etruria4 ,"h ! design is a fl[]1 ( :i* ea* petal conta9s ! ess5tial emblem--a plant )9 a plant4 ,^! b[ls1 pron\nc$ to be ,greek ( ! f\r? c5tury ,b4,c41 h yet to me a /rong ,ori5tal "*4 7,pl4 #bb1 ,no4 #c47 ,i h spok5 ( ! lotus z a naturali/ic patt]n4 ,"o mode ( draw+ & embroid]+ its fl[] 9 ,india1 is to cut x 9 two2 half ! blossom is !n c>efully & almo/ botanically copi$1 ?us convey+ ! inn] mean+ ( ! sacr$ fl[]4 7,pl4 #bb1 ,no4 #c47 ,ano!r conv5tional patt]n1 common to all times ( art & all nations1 is t call$ 9 ar*itecture ! egg & tongue patt]n4 7,pl4 #ac47 ,?is1 z ,i h already said1 is suppos$ to be d]iv$ directly f ! lotus4 ,! ,egyptians =m$ x f ! bud & blossom2 & ! patt]n is f\nd 9 ,india1 ,greece1 & ,rome1 *ang+ cont9ually & yet reta9+ its id5tity4 ,vitruvius claim$ to h giv5 x ! la/ t\* & f9i%1 s t 9 ,italy x 0 call$ ! ,vitruvian scroll2 & x is common to all decoration1 ev5 9 textiles1 ?\gh x is h>dly suit$ = weav+ or embroid]y4 ,?is is "o ( ! e>lie/ patt]ns :i*1 hav+ ceas$ long ago to be a religi\s emblem or sign1 /ill survives by its decorative fitness1 & p]petuates ! e*oes ( its orig94 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #be4 ,,typical ,,crosses4 #a4 ,swa/ika4 #b4 ,f a ,greek ,vase1 #gfe ,b4,c4 #c4 ,indian ,sect>ial ,m>k ( ,sakti race4 #d4 ,buddhi/ & ,ja9is m>k4 #e4 ,e>ly ,rhodian ,pott]y4 #f4 ,egyptian prehi/oric ,cross4 #g4 ,tau ,cross4 #h4 ,m>k ( l&1 ,egyptian & ,n9evite4 #i4 ,ditto4 #aj4 ,clavus4 #aa1 #ab1 #ac4 ,sc&9avian ,sun & ,moon ,crosses4 #ad1 #ae1 #af4 ,celtic4 #ag4 ,*rysoclavus4 #ah1 #ai4 ,/aurac9 patt]ns4 #bj4 ,sc&9avian1 f ,norway4 #ba4 ,runic ,cross4 #bb4 ,cross at ,pal5que1 9 ,temple ( ! ,sun4 #bc4 ,scot* ,celtic ,cross4 #bd4 ,cross f ,iona4 #be1 #bf4 ,runic ,crosses4 #bg4 ,cross on ! ,dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne4 #bh4 ,f ! ,mantle ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 ,emp]or ( ,g]many4 ,( ! conv5tional symbolical =ms ( ! e>ly ,*ri/ian ,*ur* ,i %all speak m fully 9 ! *apt] on ecclesia/ical art1 & !re=e w\ld only po9t out "h1 :ile t\*+ on symbolical decoration1 h[ t phase ( ,*ri/ian art is a great hi/orical in/ance ( ! deep anci5t mean+s x illu/rates2 %[+ ! motive to be (t5 9 accordance ) ! inh]it$ pagan symbol1 & yet diff]+ f x4 ,pre-em95t among ^! is ! emblem ( ! ,cross1 s e>ly & univ]sally us$1 full ( my/]i\s secret allusions to ! grop+ fai?s ( idolatr\s nations1 be=e ! great fundam5tal idea ( ! ,^w 0 atta*$ to x4 ,?is 0 "o ( ! old signs us$ z a patt]n1 & transfigur$ into a fre% type1 ( :i* ! radiance reflect$ back light ^u all t prec$$ x1 ev5 z ,*9ese ance/ors are ennobl$ by ! de$s ( _! desc5dants4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bf4 #a4 ,pallas ,a!ne1 f a vase 9 ,"l ,nor?ampton's ,collection4 #b4 ,ajax 9 a cloak embroid]$ ) swa/ika1 sun cross1 & prehi/oric wat] patt]ns4 ,etruscan ,museum4 ,vatican4 ,! cross 7,pl4 #be71 0 a sign & a patt]n 9 prehi/oric art4 ,x 0 ! d\ble ( ! ,tau1 ! ,egyptian emblem ( life2 & :ile ! ,jews reject ! ,*ri/ian cross1 !y /ill claim to h w>n$ (f ! de/roy+ angel by ?is sign 9 blood ov] ! l9tels ( _! doors 9 ! fir/ ,passov]4 ,b ! mo/ anci5t & univ]sal =m ( ! cross is t ( ! ,swa/ika1 or ,fylfote4 ,?is prehi/oric cross is said to be =m$ ( two fire-/icks1 belong+ to ! anci5t wor%ip ( ! sun1 laid across ea* o!r ready = friction2 b los+ t mean+1 f an emblem !y fell into a patt]n1 & ?is y w /ill f9d1 utt]ly mean+less1 on ,p]sian c>pets ( to-day4 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood gives ! ,swa/ika z ! sect>ial m>k ( ! ,sakti sects 9 ,india4 ,f]gusson names x ) ! m\nd build+s1 z belong+ to all ,buddhi/ art2 & examples ( ! ,swa/ika are to be f\nd on ,rhodian pott]y f ! ,necropolis ( ,kamiros1 :]e we f9d also ! key patt]n4 ,9 e>ly ,greek art ! ,swa/ika & ,gammadion are ev]y:]e1 especially z embroid]y on dress4 ,m9]va's petticoats are sometimes work$ all ov] ) ! latt]4 ,on an e>ly ,greek vase 9 ! ,museo ,gregoriano1 are pa9t$ ,ajax & ,a*illes play+ at dice2 & ! mantle ( ,ajax is squ>$ into an embroid]$ patt]n t alt]nately repres5ts a sun or /> & a ,gammadion 7,pl4 #bf1 ,no4 #b74 ,b x is unnecess>y to multiply classical examples1 :i* are endless4 ,! ,*ri/ian ,cross 0 (t5 =m$ by conv]t+ ! ,tau into ! ,gamma1 ! sacr$ lett] ( ! ,greeks4 ,x is said to h be5 ! emblem ( ! corn]-/one1 & z a patt]n1 0 call$1 d[n to ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! ,gammadion2 & ?\gh x _h lo/ its orig9al motive1 x cont9u$ to pres]ve ! idea ( a secret & my/ical mean+4 ,! ,gammadion1 z well z ! ,swa/ika1 ent]s l>gely into ! illum9ations ( ! ,celtic ,book ( ,kells & ^? ( ! ,l9disf>ne ,,mss42 also x is to be f\nd on ! ,celtic %ields 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 toge!r ) ! ,swa/ika4 ,bo? appe> 9 ! ,p]sian c>pets ( to-day1 & z patt]ns 71 9 ecclesia/ical decoration1 employ$ d[n to ! fifte5? c5tury1 bo? = ,european & ,briti% textiles4 ,! ,swa/ika1 z well z ! wave patt]n1 is ( my/]i\s & univ]sal antiquity1 & has c]ta9ly trav]s$ f\r ?\s& ye>s1--h[ mu* m we d>e n say4 ,x is to be f\nd ?r\gh\t ,egyptian & ,indian art--nev] 9 t ( ,assyria4 ,( ! "t ( ,rameses ! ,second we h two figures 9 a mural pa9t+1 an ally & an enemy1 a gue/ & a prison]1 bo? clo!d 9 embroid]$ g>m5ts1 p>sems ) ! prehi/oric cross4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,egyptian ,enemy & ,ally4 ,9 ! *apt] on ecclesia/ical art ,i %all aga9 ref] to ?is immemorial symbolical & conv5tional patt]n4 ,i mu* regret t1 9 ! abs5ce ( a translation1 ,i am prev5t$ f avail+ myself ( ! accumulat$ le>n+ on ! subject ( ,! ,prehi/oric ,cross1 by ,b>on ,erne/ de ,buns54 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bg4 ,imitation ( a ,c>pet c>v$ 9 /one1 f ,n9eveh1 %[+ ! ,indian ,lotus & ! ,assyrian ,daisy4 7,9 ! ,briti% ,museum47 ,!re 0 a patt]n call$ ! cr5elat$ :i* app>5tly 0 d]iv$ f ! ,assyrian battlem5t1 & is f\nd ?r\gh\t classic art1 some:at conv5tionaliz$4#aah ,x is nam$ z an embroid]$ patt]n 9 ! inscription record+ votive (f]+s ( dresses 9 ! temple ( ,a!ne at ,a!ns4#aai ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,cr5elat$ ,patt]n4 ,we "k some?+ ( ! conv5tional & symbolical embroid]ies ( ,n9eveh1 :i* are q unlike ^? ( ,india1 except 9 ! adoption ( ! lotus = decoration4#abj ,^! are be/ und]/ood by illu/rations2 &1 !re=e1 ,i give "o ( ! beautiful sculptur$ c>pets f ,n9eveh1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 7,pl4 #bg71 %[+ ! ,assyrian use ( ! lotus & cone1 & ! embroid]$ g>m5t ( a k+ f "o ( ! sculptures 9 l[ relief 7,plate #a74 ,^! are v /ately--p]fectly conv5tional & decorative2 & we feel t !y h gr[n :]e we f9d !m1 & are n borr[$ f ano!r civilization4 ,:at /rikes u mo/1 is ! con/ant repetition & ! little v>iety ( ornam5t 9 ^! patt]ns4 ,! =ms are /rongly m>k$--:eels or :orls1 or daisies1 (t5 repeat$4 7,! daisy belongs to ,assyria z ! lotus to ,egypt47 ,! fl[]s are simply leafless blossoms4 ,spl5did embroid]ies ( sacr$ emblematical designs are1 h[ev]1 occasionally f\nd1 su* z ^? f ,lay>d's ,monum5ts 7,plate #b74 ,mu* has be5 writt5 on ! e>ly symbolism ( plants & fl[]s4 ,! sun-my?s h enli/$ all floral leg5d>y lore1 & conv5tional ornam5t 0 l>gely drawn f !m4 ,_m symbols are pres5t to u :5 we "n c]ta9 plants4 ,! lily is ! ackn[l$g$ sign ( purity1 ! rose ( love1 ! honeysuckle ( endur+ fai?1 ! laurel ( poetry1 & ! palm ( victory2 ! oak ( /r5g?1 ! olive ( peace4 ,"s plants h accumulat$ m ?an "o mean+4 ,! v9e has _m attributes4 ,x is an emblem ( ! my/]ies ( ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur*4 ,x symbolizes pl5ty1 joy1 ! family4 ,ivy means fri5d%ip1 conviviality1 remembrance4 ,! symbolism ( bea/s 7be/i>ia71#aba ( birds 7volucr>ia71 & ( /ones 7lapid>ia7 fill$ _m volumes 9 ! m$ival ages1 & are well wor?y ( ! /udy ( ! decorative arti/4 ,! symbolism ( animals & birds especially1 con/antly attracts our att5tion 9 ! ,ori5tal & ,sicilian textiles ( ! e>ly ,*ri/ian times1 & to ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,lat]1 9 ,european textile decoration1 mo/ animals 7 accept$ z emblematic 9 ,*ri/ian art1 beg9n+ ) ! symbols ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s4 ,all ! virtues & all ! vices f\nd _! animal emblems conv5tionaliz$1 & 7 ?us wov51 embroid]$1 & pa9t$4#abb ,reptiles & insects are includ$ "u ! head ( bea/s1 & p]haps fi%es also4 ,ea* 0 d[]$ ) a symbolical mean+2 & ?us admitt$ into art1 !y 7 conv5tionaliz$ by be+ /rongly outl9$1 col\r$ flat2 & by repetition )\t v>iation1 7 conv]t$ into patt]ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bh4 #a1 #b4 ,go?ic ,tiles4 #c4 ,go?ic ,bord] ( a ,dress4 #d4 ,go?ic ,v9e4 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,:5 ! use ( h]aldic illu/ration 0 add$ to ! already accept$ symbolism1 animal decoration became v common1 & soon =got its symbolical motives1 :i* 7 succe$$ by ,r5aissance fanciful patt]ns2 & !n ! conv5tionaliz$ bea/ & its symbolism disappe>$ f ,european decoration1 except :5 x 0 a direct copy ( an ,ori5tal design4 ,c]ta9 symbolical =ms h1 h[ev]1 surviv$4 ,! eagle has always meant empire1 & ! d\ble-head$ eagle1 a d\ble royalty4#abc ,ezekiel repres5ts ,babylon & ,egypt1 symbolically1 z two eagles4#abd ,b "h we approa* ! subject ( h]aldry1 :i* became a sci5ce 9 m$ival days2 & e man & woman 9 any way rem>kable1 e *ivalr\s action & national ev5t1 became a subject = textile art1 & 0 wov5 or work$ ) ! ne$le on bann]1 hang+1 or dress4 ,! alt> decorations receiv$ a new /imulus z hi/orical records1 z well z religi\s symbols1 & pride & piety 7 equally enli/$ 9 ^! gifts to ! ,*ur*4 ,byzant9e patt]ns h a b>b>ic /amp1 & yet h mu* ( ! gr&iose ab\t !m2 b !y are to ! la/ degree conv5tional4 ,9 ! e>ly mosaics1 bo? 9 ,con/ant9ople & ,rome1 e face & head1 e fl[] & animal1 repres5ts a type & n an individual4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,go?ic ,trees1 f ,bayeux tape/ry4 ,go?ic foliage patt]ns1 9 ,engl& & else:]e1 are a /ruggle betwe5 ! naturali/ic & ! conv5tional4 ,! ,norman /yle & ! ,romanesque1 :i* prec$$ x1 & f :i* x 0 modifi$ & elevat$1 %[ _! vegetable =ms ?ick-/emm$ & few-leav$1 :]eas ! ,go?ic aspir$ to a develop$ gracefulness2 & ! ,r5aissance1 :i* succe$$ x1 assum$ all ! fre$om ( natural fl[]s & plants1 float+ 9 ! breeze1 on _! delicate /ems4 7,pl4 #bh47 ,all ! ,r5aissance patt]ns1 :i*1 z _! "n d5otes1 7 born aga91 l butt]flies to frolic = a day ( gay enjoym5t1 are purely decorative4 ,_! g5]ally *>m+1 graceful =ms gr\p toge!r to cov] empty spaces ) e reg>d to ! rules ( design & composition1 b )\t any inn] mean+4 ,if we take ^! arabesques to pieces1 we g5]ally f9d ! p>ts come f v>i\s s\rces2 & hav+ s]v$ la/ 9 pagan ,rome = pagan purposes1 _h be5 slightly refa%ion$ = ,*ri/ian decorative art1#abe be=e ! ,byzant9e in>ti/ic ta/e1 & b>b>ic spl5d\r ( metal-"w patt]ns1 _h ext+ui%$ all ! gay fancy ( ! arts ( ,s\!rn ,europe4 ,! m$ival revival 0 a return to ! light & fanta/ic1 & a prote/ aga9/ ! solemnity ( all ,go?ic art1 :i* _h _h its great day1 _h culm9at$1 & di$ out4 ,! patt]ns ( ! ,r5aissance are all guid$ by ! pr9ciples ( repetition & duplication1 or t ( d\bl+ ! patt]n1 :i* repeats itself to "r & left1 z if fold$ d[n ! middle4 ,! pr9cipal l9es ?us e*o$ "o ano!r2 b ! arti/ 0 p]mitt$ to v>y ! conv5tionalism ( ! g5]al =ms ( figures1 fl[]s1 fruit1 or butt]flies1 s z to balance & yet diff] 9 e detail4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #bi4 ,,cl\d ,,patt]ns4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #g4 ,japanese4 #d4 ,*9ese4 #e1 #h1 #i4 ,m$ival4 #f4 ,badge ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cj4 ,indo-,*9ese ,cov]let1 suppos$ to h belong$ to ,oliv] ,cromwell4 ,hatfield ,h\se4 ,among/ ! conv5tional patt]ns :i* h desc5d$ to u1 & are 9 g5]al use )\t any p>ticul> symbolical mean+ be+ atta*$ to !m1 we mu/ in/ance ^? d]iv$ f ! ,cl\d patt]n4 ,?is is to be f\nd 9 e>ly ,*9ese & ,indian art1 b ,i d n recognize x 9 ,egyptian or ,greek decoration4 ,x came ?r\gh ,byzantium1 & took its place among/ e>ly ,*ri/ian patt]ns4 7,pl4 #bi47 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ca4 ,,! ,,fundata ,,or ,,nett$ ,,patt]n4 ,portion ( a ,phnician ,b[l f ,cyprus4 ,egyptian4 ,egyptian4 ,egyptian4 ,! cl\d patt]n is also ,japanese1 & is suppos$ to h be5 orig9ally d]iv$ f ,c5tral ,asia4 ,x v>ies 9 %ape1 & is f\nd z an ornam5t on ! head ( ! sceptre 9 ! collection at ,n>a1 9 ,japan1 :i* is twelve or ?irte5 hundr$ ye>s old4 ,!re is an example ( ! cl\d patt]n 9 ,aelfl$'s embroid]y at ,durham2 & x is (t5 f\nd "u ! feet ( sa9ts 9 pa9t$ glass & embroid]ies be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,a curi\s ,indian example exi/s 9 a cov]let belong+ to ! ,m>quis ( ,salisbury1 said to h be5 ! prop]ty ( ,oliv] ,cromwell1 on :i* ! c5tral m$allion is fill$ ) :ite horses c>e]+ amid/ ! cl\d patt]n4#abf 7,pl4 #cj47 ,! nett$ patt]n call$ ,fundata is extremely anci5t4 ,we f9d x 9 ,egyptian mural pa9t+s1 z well z 9 ! c5tre ( a ,phnician b[l f ,cyprus1 n[ 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,! m$ival ,fundata 0 a silk mat]ial1 cov]$ ) :at appe>$ to be a gold network cov]+ ! /uff4 ,x is suppos$ to be ! same z t worn by ,con/ant9e1#abg & is nam$ 9 ecclesia/ical inv5tories z late z ! fifte5? c5tury4 7,pl4 #ca47 ,all ! :eel patt]ns are v anci5t1 & appe> to be simply conv5tional :eels4 ,9 ,france !y 7 call$ ros4 ,!re is a f9e in/ance ( ?is :eel patt]n 9 ,aub]ville's ,tissus4 ,! :eels sometime enclose triumphal c>s & o!r pictorial subjects4 7,pl4 #cd47 ,! patt]ns :i* are app>5tly compos$ ) ! int5tion ( avoid+ all mean+1 are ! ,moori%4 ,!y are nei!r animal1 vegetable1 nor any?+ else4 ,!y %[ no motive 9 _! complicat$ domes1 _! honeycomb+1 & _! +5i\s conv5tional =ms2 b cov] equally textile fabrics or /ucco ceil+s )\t sugge/+ any idea1 religi\s or symbolical4 ,all ! spl5did ,italian brocades & velvet damasks 7 ( conv5tional patt]ns1 & l _! ,arab & ,sicilian models1 & also l _! ,spani% contempor>ies1 repres5t$1 & s\ght to repres5t no?+ on e>?4 ,x 0 all floreat$ & me&]+ design2 ! motive rem9d+ "o ( ! p9e-apple & ! acan?us1 or ( v9e /ems meet+ or p>t+1 b nev] any?+ naturali/ic = a mom5t4 ,:5 animals 7 introduc$ x 0 always z a patt]n d\bl$ face to face1 z if fold$ d[n a /raight l9e4 ,we may say ! same ( ! succe$+ ,l\is ,quatorze & ! ,l\is ,qu9ze /yles1 :i* 7 ( ! culm9at+ p]iod ( clev] & fanta/ic conv5tional decoration4 ,our mod]n designs h phases ( imitation1 & ! patt]ns ( ri* brocades :i* our great-gr&mo!rs wore1 came into fa%ion aga9 ab\t ! ?ird decade ( ?is c5tury4 ,n[ we h be5 try+ to f9d our inspirations fur!r back1 & "s ( our copies ( ! simpl] ,sicilian patt]ns1 ) an occasional pair ( birds1 or a conv5tional plant1 imitat+ ! motive ( ! tree ( life1 h be5 v pretty4 ,! only defect is ! pov]ty :i* results f ! abs5ce ( any active & in=m+ motive4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 easi] to criticize ?an to create4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,radiat$ ,patt]n4 ,i w\ld v5ture "h to f9d fault ) a v common me?od ( conv]t+ a natural object into a conv5tional patt]n1 by radiation4 ,c]ta9 modes ( repetition are v objectionable4 ,a patt]n1 = in/ance1 repeat$ f\r times r\nd a c5tre1 or a natural fl[] repeat$ exactly1 b ly+ nor?1 s\?1 ea/1 & we/1 are m or less in>ti/ic1 we may say vulg>4 7,fig4 #ad47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,radiat$ ,sunfl[]4 ,a natural fl[] may be conv5tionaliz$ & radiat$ by plac+ x 9 ! c5tre ( ! composition fac+ y2 & ! leaves arrang$ surr\nd+ x1 s z to =malize ! design1 ?\gh !re is no?+ really unnatural 9 ! way 9 :i* !y are made to gr[4 ,! illu/ration ( a radiat$ sunfl[] expla9s my mean+4 ,x has be5 already obs]v$ t by repetition almo/ any object may be r$uc$ to a patt]n1 b ta/e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ! selection ( :at is appropriate & beautiful4 ,radiation is also really a useful factor 9 conv5tional art1 b common s5se mu/ guide ! arti/ "h z well z ta/e4 ,9 radiat+ ! =ms ( a fl[]1 nature gives endless h9ts ( beauty2 b a radiat+ patt]n ( human figures w\ld be ridicul\s1 & ev5 ! bran*es ( a tree _c be s treat$4 ,! awn+ ( ! classic hyp?ral hall or c\rt 0 (t5 reproduc$ 9 ,roman arabesques4 ,sometimes we f9d x 9 a classical tomb1 pa9t$ ov] ! ceil+1 & recall+ its orig9al use4 ,?is 0 reviv$ 9 ! ,c9que-c5to ,r5aissance2 & aga9 9 ,adams' ,eighte5? ,c5tury ,decorations1 x became an accept$ patt]n1 call$ ! %ell1 los+ its orig9al motive1 & desc5d+ to fill up ! panels ( tea-caddies & surr\nd keyholes4 ,:5 ?us r$uc$ to ! appe>ance ( a little ruff1 x ne$s "s ?\ght to recognize x1 & give x cr$it = its fir/ motive4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,x is amus+ to f9d h[ a =m :i* x seems impossible to r$uce to a patt]n1 w yet fall into "o by a judici\s arrangem5t ( light & %ad[1 & by repetition4 ,!re is a little frieze 9 "o ( ! ,indian cases on ! /aircase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 :i* is extremely pretty & effective4 ,x consi/s ( a repetition ( little balconies ) recesses & pill>s & figures 9 pairs4 ,i give x z illu/rat+ ! way conv5tional patt]ns gr[4 ,?is balcony patt]n is ( ! six? c5tury1 ,a4,d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,indian ,balcony ,patt]n1 f /eps ( tope ( ,jamal-,z>tri1 ,afghani/an4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,! anci5t palmat$ patt]n call$ ,*rysoclavus1 f ! beg9n+ ( our era to ! ?irte5? c5tury 0 p>tly a nail-head$ design1 & _h become a ,*ri/ian symbol4 ,x 01 probably1 orig9ally ! primitive spot patt]n2 aft]w>ds promot$ to be+ an ornam5t ( discs 9 col\r or metal3 ?is 0 ,assyrian1 ,etruscan1 & ,myc5an4#abh 7,pl4 #gj47 ,among ! conv5tional patt]ns :i* h app>5tly no hidd5 mean+1 b :i* cle>ly %[ _! desc5t1 are ! ,*9ese & ,japanese wick] & lattice-"w designs4 ,! beauty ( ^! is wond]ful4 ,semp] %[s t wick] 7includ+ bamboo "w7 0 ! f\ndation ( all ,*9ese civiliz$ life1 = con/ruct+ h\ses1 bridges1 ut5sils1 & = decoration4 ,he gives ?is wick]-"w orig9 to ! univ]sal key patt]n1 :i* may1 h[ev]1 h a d\ble s\rce--! wave1 & ! wick]-"w4 ,we f9d ! ,key patt]n 9 a tomb at ,essi\t1 9 ,egypt1 pa9t$ p]haps ab\t #afjj ,b4,c41 9 company ) "s o!r v old fri5ds1#abi ! ,tuscan bord]1 ! ,egg & ,tongue1 & ! ,bead1 ! ,daisy1 & ! ,wave4 7,pl4 #ag1 ,no4 #b47 ,we meet x ev]y:]e 9 anci5t & mod]n decoration4 ,!re are sev]al =ms ( x on a l>ge t]ra-cotta vase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum f ,kameiros 9 ,rhodes1 & on ,*9ese fictiles & embroid]ies4 ,x is f\nd also on g>m5ts 9 ,icel&1 :i!r ! ,greek patt]ns mu/ h drift$ ?r\gh ,norway1 &1 z !y c\ld g no fur!r1 !re !y rema9$4 ,i h (t5 spok5 ( ! extraord9>y survival ( a patt]n4 ,?is is easy to acc\nt = :5 fa%ion1 ! di/urb]1 _h n yet exi/$4 ,!n ! anci5t motive told its own tale1 & its great age 0 its claim to p]petual y\?2 b x is m rem>kable :]e we meet ) revivals at di/ant p]iods1 & app>5tly )\t any connect+ l9k ( ance/ry or /yle4 ,= in/ance1 ! wom5 ( ,g5oa wore l>ge cotton veils1 pr9t$ ) ! ,indian conv5tional tree & bea/ patt]n1 d[n to ?irty ye>s ago1 :5 ! fa%ion *ang$1 & w9t] bonnets & summ] musl9 veils displac$ ! old co/ume4 ,^! patt]ns are n[ be+ pr9t$ 9 ,engl& on scores ( cotton curta9s = b$s & w9d[s4 ,,geometrical4 ,geometrical patt]ns may be r$uc$ to a v few primitive elem5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,v>i$ adju/m5ts ( ,squ>e & ,circle4 #a4 ,! ,l9e1 includ+ /raight & wavy l9es4 #b4 ,! ,angul> ,=ms1 includ+ squ>es1 oblongs1 cubes1 c4 #c4 ,! ,triangul>1 includ+ zigzags1 diamonds1 c4 #d4 ,! ,circul>1 includ+ all spots1 discs1 & radiations4 ,all ^! c be bl5d$ or mix$ s z to =m endless v>ieties4 ,= in/ance1 ! squ>e & ! circle c int]sect ea* o!r 9 diff]5t proportions1 s z to give an entirely new effect to ! patt]n1 ea* "t ! balance is alt]$ or ! phase ( ! repetition v>i$4 ,! illu/ration w expla9 ?is4 7,fig4 #ah47 ,"r angles may int]sect ea* o!r s z to produce ! :ole gamut ( ,*9ese lattice-"w decoration1 & all ! ,celtic & ,sc&9avian entw9$ patt]ns1 f :i* s _m ( ! embroid]ies 9 ! ,italian pictures ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies are probably desc5d$4 ,! ,moori% patt]ns are geometrical1 & are creat$ on ! pr9ciple ( avoid+ 9 art ! repres5tation ( any creat$ ?+4 ,!y %[ mu* +5uity 9 keep+ cle> ( any possible mean+4 ,mo/ ( ^! conv5tional patt]ns are f\nd$ on ! ogee-ar* & a k9d ( honeycomb patt]n1 involv$ & inv]t$4 ,_! tiles1 :i* ne>e/ approa* textile design1 h1 inde$1 c]ta9 vegetable =ms add$ to ! o!rs1 b always geometrically arrang$ z no vegetables ev] grew4 ,geometrical patt]ns beg9 ) primitive =ms1 & come d[n to ! floor-clo? designs ( to-day4 ,!y c be extract$ 9 endless v>iety f ! comb9ations ( ! kaleidoscope4 ,?is /yle is well suit$ = pavem5ts 9 mosaic--ei!r secul> or ecclesia/ical4 ,! ,opus ,alex&r9um furni%es u ) mo/ beautiful examples & adaptations = l>ge or small spaces1 s z to =m ! ri*e/ or ! simple/ floor decorations4 ,h[ wor?ily a *ur* may be ?us adorn$ may be se5 on ! va/ area ( ! floor ( ,santa ,m>ia ,maggiore 9 ,rome1 or t ( ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,m>k 9 ,v5ice4 ,! ne>e/ approa* to ! ,opus ,alex&r9um 9 textiles has be5 9 ,pat*work1 ( :i* a m arti/ic use may yet be made4 ,we might ex]cise +5uity 9 ?is direction1 giv+ really f9e & effective designs to our work]s 9 pat*es1 ^: productions are1 9 g5]al1 simply al>m+4 ,! f9e quilt+ patt]ns ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies are almo/ always geometrical1 & make ! be/ backgr\nd to m respl5d5t embroid]ies ov]ly+ !m1 :i* is p>tly ow+ to _! be+ only =ms1 & convey+ no idea or inh]it$ mean+4 ,^! expressionless designs are well fitt$ = spaces & bord]s 9 :i* ! c5tres are elaborat$1 & require enclos+ or fram+2 likewise1 !y are suit$ = l>ge areas1 :i* mu/ n be p]fectly pla91 & yet n too di/urb+ to ! eye1 s z to di/ract x f ! m important ornam5ts on ! wall or ceil+4 ,!y suit c>pets 9 passages or on /aircases mu* bett] ?an any o!r k9d ( design1 & =m ! be/ figur$ backgr\nds = pictures4 ,bo? eye & m9d (t5 ne$ repose1 & !re=e ! simpl] ! geometrical patt]n is1 ! bett]4 ,complicat$ & too +5i\s comb9ations are pa9fully fatigu+4 ,simplicity & flatness are ! greate/ m]its 9 su* =ms1 z 9 %ad[less patt]ns = textiles1 & especially = embroid]ies4 ,if we turn to nature to assi/ u ) new geometrical patt]ns1 we %all f9d ! mo/ exquisite =ms 9 ! cry/als ( e newly-fall5 sn[flake1 & 9 ! nodal-po9ts on a plate ( metal or glass1 cov]$ ) s&1 & /ruck by s\nd4 ,we %all h>dly ev] f9d 9 ^! a repetition ( exactly ! same comb9ation1 & _! v>iety is only equall$ by _! beauty4 ,,footnotes3 #if ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood tells u ( patt]ns ( an ,indian brocade call$ ,*undt>a 7moon & />s71 figur$ all ov] ) repres5tations ( heav5ly bodies4 #ig ,pl9y1 ,natural ,hi/ory1 lib4 xxx4 c4 #h1 #cd4 #ih ,!re is a %ell patt]n 9 gold on a twelf? c5tury fragm5t ( a ,bi%op's g>m5t at ,worce/]4 #ii ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 iii4 pp4 #acb1 #acc1 #cej1 #eec4 #ajj ,btti*]1 9 8 ,tektonik1 w all[ ( b "o orig9 = ! egg & tongue patt]n4 ,i _c give up ! evid5t desc5t f ! lotus fl[] & bud2 b ,i h said be=e t a patt]n has sometimes a d\ble p>5tage1 & x may be s 9 ?is case4 #aja ,! lotus is almo/ entirely lo/ z a native gr[? 9 ,india1 & is fa/ disappe>+ 9 ,egypt4 ,! lotus blossom 9 ,egypt 0 n only a sacr$ emblem1 b also an objet de luxe4 ,at _! fea/s1 ! hon\r$ gue/s 7 pres5t$ ) ! fl[]s1 & z !y fad$1 slaves c>ri$ r\nd baskets ( fre% blossoms4 ,see ,wilk9son's ,mann]s & ,cu/oms ( ! ,anci5t ,egyptians4 #ajb ,see ! ,book ( ,l9disf>ne1 & ! two ,celtic bronze %ields 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,^! la/ are v curi\s4 ,! long involv$ l9es %[ _! orig91 & ! %ields are enri*$ ) enamel & corals1 9 repetitions ( ! prehi/oric cross4 #ajc ,see ,album ( ,photographs ( ! ,m>i5-,kir*e1 ,dantzic1 ,taf4 #ca4 #ajd ,woltmann & ,wo]mann1 ,eng4 ,trans41 p4 #bjb4 #aje ,*>lemagne's dress1 9 8 tomb1 0 cov]$ ) gold5 elephants4 ,?is mu/ h be5 ,indian4 ,8 mantle 0 p>sem ) gold5 bees4 #ajf ,else:]e !re is a notice ( ,miss ,morritt's really beautifully embroid]$ l&scapes at ,rokeby2 & all :o saw !m w rememb] ! extremely clev] & effective pictures 9 crewels by an accompli%$ ,am]ican lady1 ,mrs4 ,oliv] ,w5dell ,holmes1 exhibit$ 9 ,london a few ye>s ago4 ,^! exceptional cases d n1 h[ev]1 disprove ! objections aga9/ employ+ ! mo/ unfit & unmanageable mat]ials = produc+ subjects ali5 to ! art ( embroid]y4 #ajg ,see ,r$grave's ,manual ( ,design1 pp4 #ej-fa4 #ajh ,see ,app5dix #ba1 by ,*4 ,t4 ,newton1 to ! fir/ edition ( ,rusk9's ,/ones ( ,v5ice4 ,he gives1 z in/ances ( ?is patt]n1 c]ta9 co9s f ,pri51 :]e ! ,riv] ,m&] is symboliz$ by ! angul> key patt]n4 ,app5dix1 ,no4 #a4 #aji 7,euripides loquitur7 ,n horse-cocks1 nor yet goat-/ags1 su* z !y depict on ,p]sian c>pets 7,ari/ophanes1 ,! ,frogs1 v4 #ici-idd74 ,! ,p]sian c>pets1 :i* are ! legitimate desc5dants ( ,babylonian art1 are curi\sly fragm5t>y4 ,9 a mod]n design are to be se5 birds1 indicat$ by a head1 bill1 & eyes2 little c(fee-pots1 & fl[]s brok5 (f at ! /alks1 & small quadrup$s )\t any p>ticul> =m2 also ! prehi/oric cross1 ! ,tau1 & bits ( brok5-up wave & key patt]ns4 ,all ^!1 repeat$ into a patt]n1 rem9d u ( scraps 9 a kaleidoscope1 ?r[n toge!r accid5tally1 or else tak5 up by *ance :]e hi/ory & art h dropp$ !m4 #aaj ,soma or ,homa 7,s>co/emma ,vim9ale vel ,brevi/igma71 f ,ca%m]e & ! ,h9du ,cu%1 /ill us$ by ! ,brahm9s1 & ! juice ( :i* 0 ! fir/ intoxicant ( ! human race4 ,see ,birdwood's ,indian ,art1 vol4 ii4 pp4 #ccf1 #ccg4 #aaa ,! ,hom1 ! sacr$ ,p]sian tree1 is con/antly plac$ betwe5 two animals1 *a9$ to x4 ,see ,pl4 #bc1 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f4 #aab ,! ,hom or ,homa1 ! sacr$ tree ( ,assyrian & ,p]sian sculpture & textiles1 is acc\nt$ = z a patt]n by ,dr4 ,rock1 :o says3 ,f ! e>lie/ antiquity a tradition came d[n ?r\gh middle ,asia1 ( "s holy tree1 p]haps ! tree ( life spok5 ( z gr[+ 9 ,p>adise4 ,x is always repres5t$ z some?+ l a %rub1 & is a conv5tional portrait ( a palm2 b ,rock says x has e look ( hav+ belong$ to ! family ( ! ,asclepiade4 ,= its la/ trans=mation into a v9e1 see ,pl4 #bd4 #aac ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 cxxxi4 #aad ,sir ,george ,birdwood says3 ,! intimate absorption ( ,h9du life 9 ! unse5 realities ( man's spiritual consci\sness is seldom suffici5tly ackn[l$g$ by ,europeans1 &1 inde$1 _c be fully compreh5d$ by m5 ^: belief 9 ! sup]natural has be5 de/roy$ by ! prevail+ mat]ial ideas ( mod]n society4 ,e ?\ght1 wi%1 & de$ ( ! ,h9du belongs to ! _w ( ! unse5 z well z ! se52 & no?+ %[s ?is m /rik+ly ?an ! tradition>y works ( ,india4 ,ev]y?+ t is made has a direct religi\s use1 or "s religi\s symbolism4 ,! mat]ials ( :i* diff]5t articles are fa%ion$1 _! weight1 & ! col\rs ) :i* !y are pa9t$1 are fix$ by religi\s rule4 ,an obscur$ symbolism ( mat]ial & col\r is to be trac$ also 9 ! =ms ( ?+s1 ev5 = ! mo/ dome/ic uses4 ,e detail ( ,indian decoration1 ,aryan or ,turanian1 has a religi\s mean+1 & ! arts ( ,india w nev] be rightly und]/ood until !re are br\ght to _! /udy1 a famili> acqua9tance ) ! "* & subjects ( ! religi\s poetry1 national leg5ds1 & my?ological scriptures t h always be5 _! inspiration1 & ( :i* !y are ! p]fect$ imag]y4 ,see ,sir ,george ,birdwood's ,indian ,arts1 "p i4 p4 #b4 #aae ,! ,p]sian tree ( life 0 n ali5 to ! wor%ip ( ! ,zoroa/rian religion ( ! ,sassanides1 & is said to h be5 ! orig9 ( ! wor%ip ( ,bac*us4 ,x 0 introduc$ by ,ori5tal weav]s into ,sicilian & ,spani% /uffs4 #aaf ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood sugge/s t ! honeysuckle patt]n is d]iv$ f ! ,tree ( ,life1 cone1 & palm1 refa%ion$ & comb9$ ) ! graceful +5uity ( ,greek art1 & cov]+ a mixture ( sacr$ traditional emblems4 #aag ,haug1 9 8 ,essays on ! ,sacr$ ,writ+s ( ! ,p>sees 7pp4 #acb1 #bci71 tells u t ^! p /ill hold ! homa to be sacr$1 & f x squeeze a juice us$ by !m 9 _! religi\s c]emonies4 #aah ,see ,p]rot et ,*ipiez1 ,hi/oire de l',art1 vol4 ii4 pp4 #bfj1 #bfg1 ,pl4 xiv4 #aai ,see ,app5dix1 ,no4 #a4 #abj ,india1 9 return1 aft]w>ds influ5c$ ,p]sia1 ! successor ( ,babylon4 #aba ,9 ,india1 ! elephant is a v common elem5t 9 a patt]n2 9 ,egypt1 ! s]p5t2 9 ,p]sia1 ! lion4 ,9 animal patt]ns1 c]ta9 emblems 7 gr\p$ toge!r4 ,! lion & ! goose repres5t /r5g? & prud5ce2 ! lion & eagle1 /r5g? & dom9ion2 ! lion & dove1 /r5g? & g5tl5ess4 ,we may see ^! d\ble emblems on ,sicilian textiles4 #abb ,*9ese art is cr[d$ ) symbolisms4 #abc ,! d\ble-head$ eagle 0 ! badge ( ,salad91 z well z t ( ! ,holy ,roman ,empire4 #abd ,ezekiel xvii4 #abe ,9 ! e>lie/ days ( ,*ri/ianity4 #abf ,a cl\d patt]n f :i* issue two clasp$ h&s is ! device ( ,guizot ,m>*& or ,guido ,m]cator1 pr9t]1 9 #adih4 ,he liv$ at ! ,college ( ,nav>re4--,dibd9's ,decam]on1 ii4 pp4 #cc-cf4 #abg ,see ,gori 7tom4 iii4 pp4 #bj1 #hd71 z cit$ by ,rock1 ,introduction1 p4 liii4 ,! same nett$ patt]n 0 f\nd 9 ! grave ( an ,ar*bi%op ( ,york ( ab\t ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,its "n1 fundata1 is d]iv$ f funda1 ! fi%]man's net2 also1 9 lat] times1 x 0 call$ laqueata4 ,see ,rock's ,introduction 7p4 liv474 ,see also ,m4 ,*4 ,cl]mont ,ganneau's ,l',imag]ie ,phnici5ne1 ,c\pe de ,pale/r9a2 & ,*alde et ,assyrie1 9 ,p]rot & ,*ipiez1 ii4 p4 #gcf4 ,ano!r in/ance is %[n "h ( ! fundata occurr+ 9 ! bronze flat b[l copi$ f ,lay>d's ,monum5ts1 #bnd s]ies1 plate #fb4 ,! :ole design ( ! b[l is ,babylonian1 consi/+ ( a ri* bord] ( repetitions ( ! tree ( life2 ea* has ! peculi> ornam5t ( little knobs (t5 se5 on _! head-dresses4 #abh ,see ,bock's ,l4 ,gewnd]1 p4 #abi2 ,gori1 ,!s4 ,dipt4 ii4 pp4 #bj1 #bge2 ,m>qu>dt1 ,h&bu* ,rm4 ,alt4 vii4 pp4 #ebg-ca 7,eng4 ,trans474 ,au?orities diff] 9 describ+ ! ,*rysoclavus4 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood calls x a button patt]n 7,indian ,arts1 vol4 ii4 p4 #bda74 ,! ,*rysoclavus 0 ! "n giv5 to ! palmat$ or triumphal patt]n ) :i* ! consul> robes are inv>iably embroid]$ 9 ! ,roman ,consul> ivories at ,zuri*1 ,halb]/adt1 & 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,! t5aci\s life ( ?is patt]n is curi\sly %[n 9 ! way x appe>s 9 ! fifte5? c5tury on ,italian play+-c>ds4 7,see ,c>tes ,j\]1 an anonym\s ,fr5* book 9 ! pr9t-room ( ! ,briti% ,museum47 ,! k+s & knaves we> ! ,byzant9e hum]al1 & ! ,*rysoclavus patt]n is c>v$ on _! *airs4 ,till lately ,engli% play+-c>ds %[$ ! same dress-patt]n4 ,i %all discuss ! ,lat9 ,clavus & ! ,*rysoclavus among/ ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 pp4 #cjh1 #ccf 7po/74 #abi ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 i4 p4 #abe4 ,! date ( ^! mural pa9t+s may1 h[ev]1 be ev5 z late z ! "t ( ,alex&] ! ,great4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,mat]ials4 #a4 ,,raw ,,mat]ials4 ,! hi/ory ( an art mu/1 m or less1 include t ( its raw mat]ial4 ,?is is too true to be disput$1 b 9 ! art ( embroid]y x op5s out su* endless av5ues1 ?r\gh su* va/ regions ( te*nical /udy1 t we mu/ ackn[l$ge ! difficulty1 or r ! impossibility1 ( includ+ 9 "o volume ev5 a ti! ( ! in=mation already collect$4 ,i %all1 !re=e1 only d$icate a few pages to ! hi/ory ( ^? fibres :i* h always be5 mo/ important 9 ! diff]5t phases ( our civilization4 ,among books on textile mat]ials1 ,i mu/ aga9 "n ! ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 by ,yates4 ,8 premature dea?1 & ! loss t ! _w ( art & manufacture has su/a9$ by ! *a9 ( 8 invaluable rese>*es be+ brok51 _c be appreciat$ b ?r\gh ! /udy ( ! fir/ & only volume ( ?is already r>e book1 f :i* ,i v5ture to quote l>gely4 ,semp]'s ,d] ,/il is a "w ( ref]5ce on ?is subject1 s valuable t x %\ld1 by a good translation1 be plac$ )9 ! rea* ( non-,g]man s*ol>s4 ,f ,colonel ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 & 8 abundant notes1 we le>n mu* ( ,asiatic textile art 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & its e>ly traditions 9 ! immutable ,ea/1 & ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's books on ?is ,indian art are mo/ in/ructive4 ,egyptian textiles are spl5didly illu/rat$ by ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son4 ,all ^! mod]n writ]s quote ,pl9y & ! ,p]iplus2#acj & ,pl9y quotes all ! classic au?ors1 f ,hom] to 8 day4 ,"h is a wide field = ga!r+ in=mation reg>d+ ! mat]ials = embroid]y 9 pa/ ages4 ,:5 we use ! phrase raw mat]ial s glibly1 ) an /hetic contempt = t :i* ! art ( man has nei!r manipulat$ nor reorganiz$1 we %[ our own co>se appreciation1 if n ignorance1 ( ! wond]ful inh]5t beauty & microscopic delicacy ( =m1 col\r1 & sub/ance ( ^? mat]ials :i* we fa%ion = our own uses4 ,few "k ! /ructure ( ! t5d] filam5ts ( wool1 flax1 cotton1 & silk2 or t ea* has its peculi> =m & attributes1 & its individual capabilities = ! purposes = :i* !y appe> to u to h be5 creat$1 i4e4 ! clo?+ & adornm5t ( man's dress & 8 home4 ,i %\ld l to draw att5tion to ^! well-atte/$ facts4 ,se5 ?r\gh a microscope1 ! =ms ( ^! raw mat]ials diff] greatly4 ,flax is difficult to describe1 z x v>ies accord+ to ! soil & climate x comes f4 ,its fibre1 h[ev]1 has always a %9y out] surface1 & is transp>5t1 cyl9drical1 & pipe-l2 app>5tly ) breaks or jo9ts l ^? ( a cane4 ,cotton also v>ies s mu* 9 its own k9d1 t e description is diff]5t & some:at puzzl+4 ,semp] says t x approa*es ! ribbon =m1 ) ?ick5$ edges1 & is l a half-cyl9d] twi/$ spirally2 b :5 wett$ ) oil1 x swells into a complete cyl9d]4#aca ,wool & hair are holl[ pipes )\t jo9ts4 ,wooll5 fibres look l cyl9drical snakes ) a scaly surface4 ,?is r\ghness gives wool a cl++ p[] :i* exce$s t ( any o!r mat]ial1 except ! hair ( "s few animals4#acb ,silk ?reads consi/ ( tw9 pipes laid p>allel1 & held toge!r by ! v>ni% ) :i* !y are glaz$4 ,silk is t\gh & ela/ic4 ,! qualities ne$$ = textile mat]ials may be ?us enum]at$3 ,pliability1 t\ghness 7i4e4 t5sile /r5g?71 & intr9sic durability4 ,( c\rse1 ! mat]ial mu/ to a c]ta9 degree influ5ce ! /yle ( ! fabric1 & its selection mu/ be accord+ to ! effect int5d$ to be produc$4#acc ,! fa%ions ( ! day1 & ! ne$s ( ! special manufacture1 mu/ greatly modify ! *oice ( mat]ials1 :i* fluctuate1 (t5 disappe>1 & sometimes revive aga94 ,c]ta9 mat]ials :i* h be51 at "o p]iod1 mu* admir$1 h be5 entirely lo/2 & inde$ we may say t ! only p]man5tly employ$ textiles are wool1 flax1 cotton1 & silk1 :i* app>5tly nev] c be sup]s$$4 ,) !m1 all dome/ic requirem5ts c be satisfi$1 & all arti/ic & decorative fabrics produc$1 v>i$1 & p]fect$2 & ^!1 f all "t record$ 9 hi/ory1 h be5 enri*$ & glorifi$ ) gold1 ei!r inwov5 or embroid]$4 ,! game ( animal1 vegetable1 or m9]al might well be play$ ) textiles only4 ,no?+ has be5 ali5 to ! crafts :i* f "t immemorial h spun1 wov51 felt$1 nett$1 & embroid]$4 ,! mat]ials n[ 9 g5]al use1 & :i*1 once kn[n1 h nev] be5 ab&on$1 ,i h already nam$1 & %all discuss _! hi/ory sep>ately2 !y are wool1 flax1 cotton1 & silk4 ,to ^! ,i mu/ add hemp1 bo? wild & cultivat$4 ,hemp is a k9d ( nettle4 ,x 0 gr[n 9 ,col*is1 & 9 ^? cool regions :i* did n produce flax4 ,hemp is h>dly gr[n 9 ,india1 except to extract f x ! n>cotic1 ,cannabis ,indica4 ,x 0 a nor!rn production us$ ?r\gh\t ,sc&9avia4 ,h]odotus 7iv4 #ad7 says1 ,hemp gr[s 9 ! l& ( ! ,scy?ians1 9 a wild /ate1 b x is n[ cultivat$4 ,f its ,lat9 "n1 cannabis1 comes our canvas1 :i* has always be5 mu* us$ z a gr\nd = c\nt$ /it*es & back+ = embroid]y1 its /iffness be+ its qualification = su* purposes4#acd ,jute 7a r\gh sort ( hemp7 has be5 long an article ( comm]cial importance = ! manufacture ( co>se-figur$ fabrics1 dy$ & wov51 sometimes embroid]$4 ,! fibre ( ! ,aloe has be5 us$ 9 ! ,rivi]a = laces & macrami 7knott$ fr+es74 ,! fibres ( grasses1 su* z ! ,honduras silk grass 7,rhea or ,ramie71 valuable = beauty1 f95ess1 & t\ghness1 h be5 work$ or wov5 into /uffs4#ace ,?is mat]ial is n[ com+ into notice4 ,sp>tum is (t5 nam$ = co>se weav+2#acf also ! fibres ( b>ks1 especially ^? ( palm bran*es4#acg ,ano!r sub/ance ( classic use1 & ev5 n[ employ$1 ?\gh r z a curiosity ?an z an article ( comm]ce1 is ! silky filam5t produc$ by ! %ell-fi% p9na2 & also ! fibres ( c]ta9 sea-we$s4 ,fur & hair1 especially t ( camels & goats1 has always be5 mu* priz$4#ach ,we h se5 bo? ,african & ,indian /rip$ or primitively decorat$ rugs ( wool1 t\*$ "h & !re ) scraps ( cotton or silk1 or "s o!r odd mat]ial2 & among/ !m1 tufts ( human hair4 ,! s5tim5t t motiv$ ! use ( human hair has be5 ei!r love or hate--! votive or ! triumphal4 ,we "k t ,delilah 0 n a /rang] to ?is art4 ,%e wove into h] web ,samson's sev5 locks ( /r5g?1 & fa/5$ !m ) a p9 7,judges xvi474 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury x 0 ! cu/om = ladies to weave _! own hair into _! gifts to fav\r$ knights4 ,k+ ,ris1 if he _h receiv$ any su* tok5 f 8 lady-love1 return$ x ) int]e/2 = he s5t h] a mantle 9 :i* 7 inwov5 ! be>ds ( n9e conqu]$ k+s1 a t5? space be+ left = t ( ,k+ ,ar?ur1 :i* he promis$ to add 9 c\rse ( "t4#aci ,lea!r has be5 f ! remote/ antiquity employ$ = ! art ( embroid]y1 ei!r = ! gr\nd1 z 9 ! mantle ( ,boadicea1 made ( sk9s ) ! fur turn$ inw>ds & ! lea!r outside1 dress$1 & embroid]$ on ! seams2#adj or else z f9e inlaid & onlaid application1 z 9 ! fun]al t5t ( an ,egyptian que5 9 ! museum at ,b\lac1 :i* is c]ta9ly ! e>lie/ specim5 ( ne$lework decoration t exi/s4#ada 7,pl4 #dd47 ,! old ,indian embroid]ies 9 lea!r are g5]ally appli$ "o on ano!r4 ,! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indians also embroid] on lea!r4#adb ,fea!r "w w be discuss$ "u ! head+ ( ,opus ,plum>ium4#adc ,on ! surface ( textiles _m sub/ances h be5 fa/5$ d[n1 9 ord] to give brilliancy to ! g5]al effect--sk9s ( insects1 beetles' w+s1 ! claws & tee? ( v>i\s animals4#add ,asbe/os l95 is ! only m9]al sub/ance1 besides gold1 silv]1 & t91#ade t has be5 employ$ 9 embroid]y4 ,x has ! rem>kable quality ( inde/ructibility by fire4 ,asbe/os l95 c be cleans$ by fire in/ead ( wat]4#adf ,x is a soapy cry/al1 f\nd 9 ve9s ( s]p5t9e & cipol9o 9 ,cyprus1 & o!r ,greek isl&s4 ,pl9y says x 0 wov5 = ! fun]al obsequies ( mon>*s1 z x pres]v$ ! a%es ap>t1 be+ itself unh>m$ by ! fires ( cremation4 ,!re are sev]al fragm5ts exi/+1 f\nd 9 tombs4 ,"o ( ^! is 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4#adg ,m>co ,polo speaks ( a /one fibre f\nd at ,*9*91 :i* answ]s 9 description to asbe/os4 ,x 0 spun by mix+ x ) ?reads ( flax soak$ 9 oil2 & :5 wov51 0 pass$ ?r\gh ! fire to remove ! flax & ! oil4#adh ,a miracul\s napk9 ( asbe/os 0 long kept at ,monte ,cas9o4 ,coral1 pe>ls1 & beads ( _m =ms h be5 us$ = ! enri*m5t ( embroid]ies1 & = decorat+ textiles4 ,! :ole surface ( ! orig9al fabric has (t5 be5 entirely cov]$ ) !m1 or ! patt]n itself has be5 work$ 9 no?+ else4 ,pe>ls are con/antly se5 work$ on dress1 coats-(-arms1 & embroid]$ portraits4 ,se$ pe>ls1 l>ge co>se pe>ls1 & sometimes f9e & preci\s ones1 7 surr\nd$ ) gold ?read embroid]y4 ,coral 0 s mu* us$ 9 ,sicilian embroid]ies1 & s little else:]e1 t "o gives ! "n ( ,sicilian to all su* "w2 b occasionally we f9d coral embroid]ies 9 ,spa9 & else:]e 7,pl4 #cb74 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cb4 ,portion ( ,dalmatic embroid]$ by ,blan*e1 ,que5 ( ,*>les ,,iv4 ( ,bohemia 7fifte5? c5tury74 ,! figures 9 pe>ls1 on a backgr\nd ( beat5 gold4 ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]4 ,vol4 i4 taf4 xi4 ,beads ( glass 7 common 9 ,egypt f ! e>lie/ times1 /rung toge!r by ?reads s z to =m brea/plates r ?an necklaces4 ,:5ce beads orig9ally came we _c tell1 b x seems t ! ,phnicians dropp$ !m on all ! %ores ( ! _w4 ,!n1 z n[1 savages _h a passion = beads1 & civiliz$ m5 & wom5 /ill admire !m z trimm+s4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages !y 7 sometimes work$ into pictures4#adi ,9 z f> z mat]ials are ess5tial to ! art ( embroid]y1 ,i mu/ re/rict myself to ! hi/ory ( silk1 wool1 flax1 cotton1 & gold4 ,) ^! all ! f9e/ works h be5 execut$ = ! arti/ic adornm5t ( dress & hang+s4 ,all o!r mat]ials h be5 occasional exp]im5ts1 or else 7 resort$ to 9 ! abs5ce or ignorance ( ! above five mo/ important factors 9 our dome/ic civilization4 ,! hi/ory ( wool mu/ take prec$5ce z be+ t ( ! orig9al1 if n ! fir/1 ( textile mat]ials4 #b4 ,,wool4 ,! wool ( %eep & ! hair ( goats 7 us$ v e>ly 9 ! _w's hi/ory = clo?+1 & probably also = hang+s4 ,! e>lie/ civilizations plait$1 span1#aej wove1 & felt$ !m4 ,!re is no reason to suppose t goats & %eep prec$$ ! creation ( man4 ,no e>ly fossils record !m4 ,our %eep are suppos$ by zoologi/s to be desc5d$ f ! ,argali or ,ovis ,ammon ( ,l9nu1 inhabit+ ! c5tral regions ( ,asia4#aea ,x is possible t plait$ grasses may h prec$$ wool4 ,b ?\gh c]ta9 prehi/oric specim5s are suppos$ to h be5 f\nd 9 ,spa91 yet ( ?is !re is b imp]fect pro(4 ,! pa/oral tribes w&]+ ov] ^? fair regions t ext5d f ,khotan to ,arabia1 foll[+ _! flocks & h]ds1 & /udy+ :]e be/ to fe$1 increase1 & multiply !m1 & obta9 f !m ! f9e/ texture ( wool1 are spok5 ( n[h]e m ?an 9 ! collect$ books ( ! ,old ,te/am5t1 op5 to u all2 & !re we le>n h[ important a place ^! %eph]ds held 9 ! _w's civilization4 ,wat*+ _! flocks by night1 !y wat*$ ! />s also1 & !y 7 a/ronom]s2 seek+ ! be/ pa/ures & fodd]1 !y le>n$ to be botani/s1 flori/s1 & agriculturali/s4 ,!y became also philosoph]s1 poets1 prophets1 & k+s4#aeb ,job & 8 c\ntry 7 enri*$ ?r\gh ! bre$+ ( %eep4 ,! sev5 daught]s ( ,je?ro1 ! ,high-prie/1 t5d$ _! fa!r's flocks4 ,! ,arabians 7 always great bre$]s ( %eep4 ,! ,greeks & ,romans1 f ,hom] to ,virgil1 sang ( ! h]dsman's life4 ,our ,"l ,himself did n disda9 to be call$ ! ,good ,%eph]d4#aec ,! m]*ants :o trad$ f ! ,arabian ,gulf to ,egypt1 & across !nce to ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 & ! ,phnicians ( ,sidon :o br\ght ov]l& _! bales ( raw mat]ial & manufactur$ ,ori5tal fabrics1 knew well :]e to f9d ! be/ goods = _! cu/om]s2 & we he> frequ5tly :5ce came ?is or t col\r$ wool4 ,*emmis1 ! city ( ,pan1 reta9$ its celebrity 9 ! wooll5 trade d[n to ! conque/ ( ,egypt by ! ,romans4 ,n9eveh & ,babylon enc\rag$ ! manufactures & comm]ce 9 wooll5 t5ts1 wall-hang+s1 & c>pets4 ,n[h]e 7 !y s ri*ly embroid]$4#aed ,solomon pur*as$ wooll5s f ,egypt4 ,damascus suppli$ ! ,tyrians ) wool = _! rugs4 ,! /uffs & textile fabrics ( wool1 ( ! ,*9ese1 ,assyrians1 & ,*aldeans1 are record$ 9 ! e>lie/ writ+s ( ! human race4 ,h[ mu* _! decoration dep5d$ on weav+1 & h[ mu* on embroid]y1 we _c tell4 ,! products ( ! ,babylonian looms are allud$ to 9 ! ,book ( ,jo%ua1#aee & also by ,ezekiel4#aef ,assyrian /uffs 7 always celebrat$ = _! spl5did col\rs & v>i\s designs2 among :i* 7 hunt+ sc5es1 battles1 & special emblematic adornm5ts4#aeg ,f ,miletus came ! wool valu$ mo/ highly by ! ,greeks4 ,spa9 produc$ ! be/ black1 & ! nor? ( ,italy ! be/ :ite wool4 ,! ,n>bon5sian & ,egyptian wools 7 suppos$ to be ! mo/ durable1 & :5 !y became %abby1 7 dipp$ aga9 & s]v$ ano!r g5]ation4 ,f ,yates' acc\nt ( ! great v>iety ( wools1 rem>kable = _! f9e texture1 _! :it5ess1#aeh _! blackness1#aei or _! r$ness1 _! cool or _! w>m t9ts1 x is evid5t t ! anci5ts valu$ highly ^! diff]5t qualities4#afj ,! clo?s t 7 ( greate/ acc\nt 7 ( ! f9e/ or ! w>me/ k9ds4 ,! %eep ( ,miletus1 ,attica1 ,meg>is1 & ,t>5tum 7 clo!d 9 jackets1 9 ord] to pres]ve ! f95ess & :it5ess ( _! own coats1 & to protect !m f be+ torn by ! ?orny bu%es 9 _! pa/ures4 ,columella calls !m ! cov]$ & ! s(t1 & says !y 7 (t5 kept 9 ! h\se4 ,we f9d notices ( ! peculi>ities ( ! v>i\s national bre$s1 caus$ by ! soil on :i* _! pa/ure grew1 & ! riv]s & /reams at :i* !y drank1 & ^! peculi>ities 71 if possible1 enc\rag$4 ,!re is evid5ce also t "s improvem5t ( ! bre$s by cross+ 0 practis$ 9 e>ly times4 ,z 9 all ! life ( ! ,greeks1 ! religi\s elem5t _h mu* influ5ce 9 p]fect+ _! flocks ( %eep--only ! mo/ beautiful animals 7 consid]$ wor?y ( sacrifice to ! gods4 ,a few ( ! r>e specim5s ( /uffs :i* h be5 rescu$ f tombs1 especially 9 ! ,crimea1 & 9 ! ,fay\m1 9 ,egypt1 %[ a wool s f9e & %9+ t x might be tak5 = silk1 & ! beauty ( ! weav+ is m>vell\s1 & mu* v>i$ 9 /yle4 ,a w>rior's tomb 9 ! di/rict ( ,kuban conta9$ a fun]al pall1 cov]+ ! s>cophagus1 measur+ at lea/ ?ree metres & a half ea* way1 wov5 ( br[n wool1 9 twelve n>r[ /rips sewn toge!r & aft]w>ds pa9t$4 ,! gr\nd is yell[i%1 ! design br[n4 ,! figures repeat my?ical subjects1 & alt]nate ) patt]ns1 & !re is a bord]4 ,"o /rip conta9s a sc5e f ! /ory ( ,peleus & ,!tis4 ,app>5tly ?is is ,attic design4 ,! col\r$ dresses worn by wom5 ( rank1 & hung on ! /atues ( ! gods1 7 sometimes pa9t$1 sometimes /amp$1 & (t5 embroid]$1 & !y 7 ne>ly all ( wooll5 fabrics4 ,"o ( ! great advantages ( wool is its p[] ( absorb+ col\r1 z ! pigm5t s9ks into its v fibre1 in/ead ( cl++ to ! surface4 ,x c be dy$ ( deep] col\rs ?an flax1 cotton1 or silk4 ,pl9y tells u t ,tanaquil comb$1 span1 & wove h] wool1 & %e h]self made ! royal mantle :i* ,s]vius ,tullius us$ to we>1 & x 0 cov]$ ) a wavy patt]n 7undulata74 ,!nce came ! cu/om t :5 a maid5 became a bride1 h] att5dants c>ri$ a di/aff trimm$ ) comb$ wool1 & a sp9dle ) y>n ^u x4 ,! robes work$ by ,tanaquil 7 d$icat$ by ,s]vius ,tullius to ! /atue ( ,=tune 9 h] temple at ,rome1 & 7 /ill hang+ !re 9 ! days ( ,tib]ius4#afa ,pl9y rem>ks t x 0 a wond] t x nei!r fell f ! image1 nor 0 eat5 by ! mo?s1 dur+ five hundr$ & sixty ye>s4 ,he gives u int]e/+ details ( ! weav+ ( wooll5 clo?s1 & speaks ( ! ?ick co>se wool ) great ?ick hair1 us$ = c>pets f ! "t ( ,hom]4 ,! same passage m5tions felt4 ,he tells u ( ! clo?s ) a curly nap1 us$ 9 ! days ( ,augu/us2 ( ! papav]ata wov5 ) fl[]s resembl+ poppies2 & we he> f him ( ! clo? ( div]s col\rs wov5 9 ,babylon1 & call$ !nce ,babylonica2 & ! ,alex&rian webs1 ) _m-col\r$ ?reads 7polymita7#afb1 comp>+ !m ) ^? made 9 ,gaul2 & ^? wov5 by ! ,p>?ians4#afc ,we h already said t ! wool ( ,miletus 0 a prov]bial fav\rite ) ! ,greeks4 ,eu/a?ius speaks ( ! excell5ce ( ! ,milesian c>pets & hang+s4 ,virgil repres5ts ! virg9s ( ,cyr5e sp9n+ ,milesian wool dy$ ( a deep sea-gre54#afd ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum is a fragm5t ( ,egyptian wooll5 or wor/$ embroid]y on :ite l951 discol\r$ by its use z mummy wrapp+2 b ! /it*es ( wor/$ rema9 a p]fectly cle> bright crimson & indigo blue4 ,?is %[s h[ wool absorbs ! col\r & reta9s x4 ,ev5 :5 ! surface is fad$1 x c be made to emit x aga9 by *emical processes4 ,9 tombs 9 ! ,crimea h be5 f\nd v>i\sly wov5 & adorn$ wooll5 fabrics4 ,!re are fragm5ts resembl+ 9 _! texture a f9e rep--a sort ( cord$ /uff2 ano!r mat]ial resembl+ a wooll5 crpe1 or f9e nun's gauze4 ,?is veil$ a gold5 wrea?4 ,!n !re is a /uff l :at is n[ call$ atlas--a k9d ( wooll5 sat94 ,"s wooll5s are wov5 simply l l952 "s are wide1 "s v n>r[1 sewn toge!r 9 /rips1 wov5 9 me&]+ designs4 ,"o1 l a piece ( ,gobel9 tape/ry1 has a bord] ( ducks ) yell[ w+s & d>k gre5 heads & ?roats1#afe & !n ano!r ) a patt]n ( /ags' heads4 ,?is description recalls ! specim5s on plate #af & plate #ci4 ,f ^! tombs are collect$ /uffs ( wool1 wov5 & embroid]$ 9 gold ) comb9ations ( _m col\rs2 &1 9 fact1 ?r\gh ?is collection1 n[ plac$ 9 ! ,museum at ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 we become aw>e t #cjj ,b4,c4 ! ,greeks _h le>n$ all ! secrets ( ! art ( weav+ wool4 ,!y1 h[ev]1 lo/ x1 & x is only 9 ,india t its cont9uity 0 nev] brok54 ,indian looms /ill weave1 ( ! f9e/ fleeces1 su* %awls ( ,babylonian design z repeat ! texture ( ! anci5t ,greek g>m5ts4 ,b 7 !y ,greek8 or did ^? beautiful wov5 fabrics come f ,p]sia or ,india8#aff ,! fir/ we "k ( ,sc&9avian wool = dress1 is a fragm5t f a ,celtic b>r[ 9 ,york%ire--a wooll5 plait$ %r\d4 ,?is fabric 0 an advance ^u ! orig9al nor!rn savage co/ume--a %eep-sk9 fa%ion$ & sewn ) a fi%-bone = a ne$le1 s9ews = ?read1 & a ?orn = a p94 ,b we mu/ imag9e t "s use 0 made1 besides plait+1 ( ! spun wool1 ( :i* ! e>ly nor!rn wom5 h left u evid5ce1 9 ! :orls ( _! sp9dles1 f prehi/oric times4 ,wool has always appe>$ to be a natural mat]ial = dress4 ,x is w>m 9 w9t]1 light 9 summ]1 & is always beautiful z x hangs 9 lovely s(t drap]ies1 heavy en\gh to draw ! fabric into graceful curv$ l9es1 & yet capable ( yield+ to ea* movem5t 9 little rippl+ folds1 cov]+1 b n conceal+ ! =ms to :i* !y cl+4 ,classical drap]ies are expla9$ by x4 ,:at ! ,italians call ! eyes ( ! folds1 are p>ticul>ly beautiful 9 wooll5s1 & l5d !mselves to sculpturesque art4 ,! o!r natural use ( wool is = c>pets4 ,we h ! evid5ce ( ! imitations1 9 mosaic1 ( c>pets f ! /one floors 9 ,n9eveh 7n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum71 t ! art ( weav+ l>ge & small rugs1 & ! pr9ciples ( composition = su* purposes 0 at t date well und]/ood4 ,! c>pet-weav+ traditions ( ,babylon appe> to h be5 inh]it$ by ! occupi]s ( ! soil1 z x is suppos$ t ! ,s>ac5s le>n$ f ,p]sia ! art ( weav+ pile c>pets1 & import$ !nce craftsm5 into ,spa94 ,we c trace ,p]sian c>pet patt]ns 9 ,indian floor cov]+s4 ,! ,greeks call$ !m tapetes2 & ! ,lat9s adopt$ ! "n2 & h5ce ! ,italian tapeti1 ,fr5* tapis1 & our ^w tape/ry4 ,z arti/ic mat]ial1 to :i* ! _w owes mu* beauty & com=t1 wooll5s h always play$ a great "p 9 ! decorations ( our h\ses1 z ( our g>m5ts4 ,fabrics h be5 made ( !m ( e description1 f ! *eape/ & commone/ to ! mo/ ref9$2 b if wooll5 /uffs are to be beautiful1 !y mu/ be f9e1 & work$ or embroid]$ by h&4 ,wooll5s brocad$ or figur$ are n s effective z silk5 hang+s4 ,wooll5 velvets are )\t light1 dull & heavy4 ,/ill1 ev5 among/ our ,engli% fabrics1 !re h always be5 v>ieties ( texture#afg & adaptations to diff]5t effects1 & "s are beautiful4 ,wor/$ ?read1 s call$ f ,wor/$1 9 ,norfolk1 :]e ! mat]ials = weav+ & embroid]+ are manufactur$1 has always be5 v important 9 embroid]y4 ,wor/$s aft] a "t gave way to a v beautiful mat]ial1 call$ ,g]man wool1 :i* aga9 has yield$ ! supremacy to crewels#afh 7resembl+ ! old wor/$s74 ,^! crewels are ne>ly ! same 9 sub/ance & 9 _! loose texture z ! ?reads prep>$ f wool = tape/ry weav+4 ,we may claim1 9 ,engl&1 ! sup]iority 9 ?is manufacture1 ?\gh we are con/antly receiv+ f ,france novelties :i* give u good h9ts1 & urge u to keep pace ) ! sci5ce ( ! ,gobel9s 9 _! wooll5 dyes4 ,! ,fr5*1 9 return1 employ our wools1 especially ^? ( ,l9coln%ire1 9 _! tape/ry work%ops4 ,! wool & hair ( goats %\ld be a /udy by itself4 ,!y h f ! e>lie/ times be5 us$ 9 ,india = ! f9e/ & s(te/ fabrics1 su* z ! lovely %awls ( ,ca%m]e & ! neighb\r+ prov9ces4 ,clo? ( ,t>s 9 ! ,middle ,ages is suppos$ to be :at is n[ call$ ,ca%m]e4 #c4 ,,flax4 ,boyd ,dawk9s tells u t ,! art ( sp9n+ & ! manufacture ( l95 7 introduc$ into ,europe 9 ! ,neoli?ic age1 & h be5 pres]v$ ) little v>iation f t p]iod to ! pres5t day1 9 c]ta9 remote p>ts ( ,europe1 hav+ only be5 sup]s$$ 9 mod]n times by ! complicat$ ma*9]y s famili> to u4 ,! sp9dle & di/aff1 or p]=at$ sp9dle :orls1 are ( /one1 pott]y1 or bone1 su* z are con/antly f\nd 9 ,neoli?ic tombs & habitations4 ,?read f ! ,swiss lake cities is prov$ to be ( flax1 & !re is evid5ce ( weav+ 9 "s sort ( loom4#afi ,! mean+ ( ! ^w ,byssus has be5 disput$2 "s au?orities ass]t+ t x includes bo? flax & cotton fabrics4 ,)\t ! aid ( ! microscope1 ! dispute z to :e!r ! mat]ial ( ! ,egyptian mummy wrapp+s 0 cotton or flax1 or a mixture ( ! two1 w\ld nev] h be5 settl$2 b n[ t ! diff]5ce ( ! /ructure ( ea* has be5 cle>ly asc]ta9$1 we "k t cotton 0 nev] employ$ 9 ,egypt1 except = c]ta9 dome/ic uses4 ,! mummy wrapp+s are entirely l954 ,cotton 0 =bidd5 = ! prie/s' dress 9 ! temple1 ?\gh !y might we> x :5 n on duty4#agj ,!re are specim5s ( ,egyptian pa9t$ or pr9t$ patt]ns on f9e l95 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2#aga & x is curi\s to see 9 ,egyptian mural pa9t+s ! same patt]n$ *9tzes on furniture t 7 common a hundr$ ye>s ago 9 ,engl&4 ,bo? mu/ h come f ,india1 & !re=e 7 c]ta9ly cotton fabrics4 ,h]odotus says ! mummy clo?s 7 ( byss9e s9don1 :i* may be translat$ l95 clo?4#agb ,cotton he calls tree wool4 ,yates has c>efully argu$ ! :ole "q1 &1 we ?9k1 has prov$ t byssus 0 flax1 & n cotton4#agc ,he quotes ,philo1 :o c]ta9ly mu/ h believ$ t x 0 made ( flax1 f ! description he gives ( its appe>ance & qualities1 :i* 9 no way apply to cotton or hemp4 ,he says t ,! ,jewi% high prie/s wore a l95 g>m5t ( ! pure/ byssus--:i* 0 a symbol ( firmness1 incorruption1 & ( ! cle>e/ spl5d\r1 = f9e l95 is v difficult to te>4 ,x is made ( no?+ mortal1 & becomes bright] & m resembl+ light1 ! m x is cleans$ by wa%+4#agd ,"h is ano!r quotation3 ,clo? ( byssus symbolizes firm fai?4 ,its ?reads surpass ev5 ropes ( broom 9 firmness & /r5g?4#age ,pl9y says ! flax gr[n 9 ,egypt 0 sup]ior to any o!r1 & x 0 export$ to ,arabia & ,india4#agf ,! fir/ kn[n exi/+ fragm5t ( flax l95 9 ,europe 0 tak5 f ! tomb ( ! ,sev5 ,bro!rs 9 ! ,crimea4 ,its date is #cjj ,b4,c4 ,9 ,solomon's "t ! ,jews evid5tly dep5d$ ^u ,egypt = _! f9e l954 ,h]odotus describes ! corselet ( ,amasis1 ! f95ess ( ! l951 & ! embroid]$ decorations ( m5 & animals1 p>tly gold & p>tly tree wool 7i4e4 cotton74#agg ,all ! f9e/ l95 c]ta9ly came !n f ,egypt1 & 0 mu* f9] ?an any t is n[ made4 ,t we call cambric1 0 wov5 !re _m c5turies be=e x 0 made 9 ,cambray4#agh ,?r\gh ! ,phnicians ! f9e l95 came to ,rome1 z appe>s f ! foll[+ notice ( embroid]y on l95 by ,flavius ,vopiscus1 9 8 ,life ( ! ,emp]or ,c>9us3 ,:y %\ld ,i m5tion ! l95 clo?s br\ght f ,tyre & ,sidon1 :i* are s ?9 z to be transp>5t1 :i* gl[ ) purple1 or are priz$ on acc\nt ( _! labori\s embroid]ies8#agi ,! hi/ory ( a f9e embroid]$ l95 curta9 = a ,roman h\se might h be5 ?is3--,gr[n 9 ,egypt2 c>ri$ to ,nom5ticum 7,artois71 & !re wov52 tak5 to ,india to be embroid]$1 & !nce z m]*&ise to ,rome4 ,:ile flax 0 mak+ its way nor?w>d1 ! ,celts mu/ also h tak5 x across ,europe f _! re/+-place1 aft] emigrat+ f ! ,ea/4 ,! ^w l95--l9-:ite--is a ,celtic epi!t1 :]eas flax is an ,anglo-,saxon ^w4#ahj ,! ,atrebates wove l95 9 ,artois1 #ahjj ye>s ago4 ,j]ome speaks ( _! indum5ta1 or %irts ( f9e l952 & ! great weav]s ( to-day are /ill ! ,flemi% desc5dants ( ! ,atrebates4 ,_! ,celtic desc5t is witness$ 9 ! ,iri% by _! sup]iority 9 ! crafts ( ! loom4 ,! f9e laces ( ,v5ice1 ,france1 & ,belgium are all ( l951 i4e4 flax5 ?read4 ,cle>ness & /r5g? 9 ^! delicate fabrics _c be obta9$ ) cotton1 :i*1 especially :5 x is wa%$1 swells & fluffs1 & nev] has ! radiant appe>ance & purity ( flax4 ,embroid]y is always a natural accompanim5t ( f9e l954 ,^? t are /ill pres]v$ to u f e>ly & ,middle-,age times are ne>ly all on l951 if n on silk4 ,! wooll5 fragm5ts are v few & imp]fect4 ,!y h be5 inv>iably frett$ by ! mo?4 ,:ite ne$le embroid]y is mo/ly work$ 9 l95-?read1 ?\gh cotton-?read has be5 us$ a great deal1 & is v fit = ! purpose4 #d4 ,,cotton4 ,cotton 0 native to ,india1#aha z flax 0 to ,egypt4 ,x n only 0 gr[n1 wov51 & pr9t$ !re f ! remote/ antiquity1 b 0 cultivat$ n[h]e else4 ,! ,egyptians d n appe> to h gr[n x till ! f\rte5? c5tury ,a4,d41 ?\gh !y _h long import$ x z raw mat]ial1 & z pla9 & pr9t$ webs4#ahb ,x 0 call$ tree-wool4 ,x 0 fir/ wov5 9 ,italy 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & us$ = mak+ pap]2 & 9 ! sixte5?1 ! plant 0 gr[n 9 ! s\? ( ,europe4 ,f ,italy x 0 c>ri$ into ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 & only rea*$ ,engl& 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1#ahc s lately has ! great /aple ( our manufactures fir/ belong$ to u4 ,! fibre ( cotton has nei!r ! /r5g? nor ! durability ( flax or silk1 b x is ! ?ird 9 ! gr\p ( ! mo/ univ]sally qualifi$ mat]ials = all purposes ( dome/ic textile art1 rang+ f c>pets & sails1 to f9e *9tzes = dress1 & filmy musl9s4 ,! cl\dy effect ( ^! delicate fabrics is _! own peculi> beauty4 ,musl9s = hang+s1 pr9t$ or embroid]$1 h always be5 a luxury f ,india2 !y 7 call$ c>basa1 & 7 mu* e/eem$ 9 ,rome z a protection aga9/ ! sun4#ahd ,b we h mu* e>li] notice ( !m1 z be+ ! curta9s describ$ 9 ! ,book ( ,e/h]1 hung ) silv] r+s to ! pill>s ( m>ble 9 ! banquet+ hall at ,susa or ,%u%an3 blue & :ite musl9 7i4e4 c>pas1#ahe mi/ranslat$ gre5 9 ! ,au?oriz$ ,v]sion71 fa/5$ ) cords ( f9e l95 & purple4 ,! ^w c>bas9a occurs 9 a play by ,/atius1 evid5tly translat$ f a writ] ( ! new ,greek com$y p]iod4 ,x may be inf]r$1 !re=e1 t ! ,greeks us$ cotton #bjj ,b4,c4#ahf ,a c5tury be=e1 ,ne>*us 7"o ( ,alex&]'s admirals7 speaks ( ! cotton-trees 9 ,india z if !y 7 a new discov]y4 ,yates gives u _m quotations f ,lat9 classical au?ors1 prov+ ! common use ( cotton4 ,its ,lat9 "n 0 bambac9um1 f bombax1 h5ce ! ,italian bambagio1 bambag9o1 bambas9o4 ,! v>iety ( cotton fabrics 9 ,india is v num]\s1 ea* hav+ its di/9ctive beauties & qualities inh]it$ by tradition f e>ly times4 ,!y are enum]at$ & describ$ 9 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood's ,arts ( ,india4 ,almo/ all ( !m h be5 made to c>ry embroid]ies--! transp>5t musl9s1#ahg z well z ! f9e clo?s1 & ! /rong] & ?ick] fabrics4#ahh ,mo/ old ,engli% h\ses conta9 "s hang+s ( ?ickly wov5 cotton1 probably ,indian1 work$ 9 crewel or wor/$1 ( ! "t ( ,james ,i41 or a little e>li]2 & beautiful patt]ns wr\ght 9 silk or ?read1 on f9e cotton l951 rem9d+ "o ( ! arabesques ( ! ,taj ,mahal1 succe$$ ^? ( ! ,jacobean /yle4 ,transp>5t musl9s 7 (t5 embroid]$ 9 gold & silv]1 or spangl$ & emboss$ ) beetles' w+s2 & gold1 silv]1 & silk 7 lavi%$ on ,indian cotton gr\nds1 z well z on silk5 /uffs4 ,l95 0 n mu* embroid]$ 9 ,india1 b (t5 pr9t$ l *9tz4 ,buckram1 or plu% ( cotton1 0 c]ta9ly import$ f ! ,ea/ to ,engl&1 f ! ?irte5? c5tury to ! "t ( ,elizabe?4 ,!re is at ,a%ridge1 9 ,h]t=d%ire1 a small jacket ( v f9e cotton-plu% among/ ! baby l95 prep>$ by ,elizabe? = ! expect$ heir ( ,philip & ,m>y1 & !re are o!r small dresses ( ?is mat]ial ( ! date ( ,james ,i4 ,a simil> mat]ial call$ fu/ian is also nam$ by ,m>co ,polo z a cotton fabric2 x is suppos$ to h be5 made 9 ,egypt by ! ,arabs4 ,?is sort ( cotton-plu%1 v>i\sly manipulat$1 is repeat$ly m5tion$ by ,h]r ,graf's*5 9 8 ,catalogue ( ,egyptian ,textiles f ! ,fay\m4 ,plano ,c>p9i says ! tunics ( ! ,t>t>s 7 bacramo1 or else ( baudi*9 7clo? ( gold74 ,fal/aff's m5 9 buckram may be ?us expla9$4#ahi ,i h already said t cotton is inf]ior 9 its qualities to silk & flax1 except 9 ! production ( transp>5t musl9s4 ,its peculi>ity is its t5d5cy to cr9kle or crumple 9 we>+1 !re=e x does n pres5t a smoo? flat surface1 except by means ( dress+1 :i* unfits x = cl++ effects b suits pr9t$ patt]ns4 ,su* /uffs z workh\se %eet+1 imitat+ c]ta9 fabrics ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 & :i* x has be5 ! fa%ion ( late to cov] ) embroid]y1 d n repay1 by effective beauty1 ! tr\ble be/[$ ^u !m4 #e4 ,,gold4 ,a some:at pr(ane ,fr5* writ]1 giv+ 8 ideas on ! ,creation1 says t gold1 ! late/ metal1 0 expressly creat$ = ! demoralization ( mank9d4 ,?is is an ugly v]sion ( ! fact t x is f\nd on ! surface ( ! e>?'s cru/1 & t its beauty & wor? makes x a desirable possession = :i* m5 w ev] cont5d4 ,gold adorns e "w ( ! arti/ic animal--man4 ,x is ! mo/ becom+ sett+ to all o!r beautiful ?+s1 ! mo/ gorge\s reflection ( light & col\r1 ! ri*e/ & s(te/ backgr\nd1 ! mo/ h>moni\s m$ium = high lights4 ,9 all works ( decoration x repres5ts sun%9e :]e x is n1 & d\bles x :]e x is4 ,! ^w illum9ation 9 books belongs to ! gild$ illu/rations ( immortal ?\ghts4 ,9 embroid]ies1 z gr\nd+ or z patt]n1 gold gives ! glory3 ,h] clo?+ is ( wr\ght gold4 ,! raim5t ( ne$lework is comp>atively ineffective )\t gold5 lights or backgr\nd4 ,z col\r1 x nev] c (f5d ! eye1 except :5 us$ to acc5tuate aggressively a vulg> patt]n1 or :5 x fla%es & dazzles f ov]-poli% & too lavi% exp5diture4 ,silv] foll[s gold z a spl5did elem5t 9 decoration1#aij b x is n ( su* univ]sal application & use2 & :5 employ$ toge!r1 ! proportion ( gold %\ld prepond]ate4 ,gold5 tissues belong to ! e>lie/ civilizations4 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood says t ,! art ( gold brocades is old] ?an ! ,code ( ,manu4444 ,! excell5ce ( ! art pass$ 9 ! long c\rse ( ages1 f "o place to ano!r2 & ,babylon1 ,t>sus1 ,alex&ria1 ,baghdad1 ,damascus1 ,antio*1 ,tabriz1 ,sicily1 & ,tripoli successively became celebrat$ = _! gold & silv]-wr\ght tissues1 silks1 & brocades4444 ,?r\gh e disguise 7& m+l+ ( /yle7 x is n impossible to inf] ! ess5tial id5tity ( ! brocades ) ! fabrics ( blue1 purple1 & sc>let1 work$ 9 gold1 ( anci5t ,babylonian art4#aia ,! ,israelites wove gold ) _! col\r$ wooll5s = ! use ( ! sanctu>y1 & probably br\ght ! art f ,egypt2 ?\gh ,i am n aw>e ( any gold-wov5 /uffs f ,egyptian tombs4#aib ,indian & ,*9ese /uffs 7 f "t immemorial wov5 ) gold4 ,! hi/orians ( ,alex&] ! ,great cont9ually "n gold z a mat]ial 9 dress4#aic ,arrian1 ,ju/91 & ,qu9tus ,curtius1 all speak ( gold5 tissues z "p ( ! luxury ( ! ,ea/4 ,we he> ( ,d>ius' dress wov5 ) gold5 hawks2 & ( ! gold5 spoils ( ,p]sepolis2 ! dresses worn by ,alex&]'s g5]als1 & all 8 att5dants clo!d 9 purple & gold4 ,!n1 p]haps1 ! ,babylonian tradition 0 br\ght to ,europe2 & ev] aft]1 purple & gold became ! /ate app>el = c\rti]s z well z k+s4#aid ,! hang+s ( sc>let1 purple1 & gold us$ at ! nuptials ( ,alex&]1 & at 8 fun]al1 & 8 pall ( ! same mat]ial1 po9t to ! fact t gold 0 a recogniz$ elem5t 9 spl5did textile weav+1 z well z 9 ! e>lie/ ornam5tal embroid]ies4#aie ,attalus ,,ii41 k+ ( ,p]gamus1 0 cr$it$ ) be+ ! inv5tor ( gold weav+1 b ?is mu/ h be5 a mi/ake1 z x 0 practis$ long be=e 8 "t2 b he may h devis$ "s spl5did gold5 tissues1 :i* 7 call$ ,attalic1 9 hon\r ( ! k+'s patronage4#aif ,z1 h[ev]1 ! gold flat plate or wire 0 probably t wov5 be=e 8 "t1#aig x is possible t he may h inv5t$ or patroniz$ ! mak+ ( ?read ( gold1 by tw9+ x r\nd flax or cotton4#aih ,pl9y says gold may be wov5 or spun l wool )\t any admixture ( wool or flax1#aii & he quotes z examples ! gold5 g>m5t ( ,agripp9a1 & t worn by ,t>qu9ius ,priscus1 m5tion$ by ,v]rius4 ,x appe>s t ! ,egyptians knew ! art ( draw+ gold wire1 z "s pieces h be5 f\nd 9 _! jewell]y2#bjj b we "k n by :at process x 0 work$1 ei!r !n1 or 9 ! d>k ages4 ,a me*anic ( ,nuremb]g1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 inv5t$ a ma*9e = ! purpose2 & ?is art ( draw+ wire 0 introduc$ into ,engl& #bjj ye>s lat]1 9 #aefj4 ,! pure cut gold 0 9 use 9 ,rome to a late date4#bja ,/4 ,cecilia1 m>tyr$ #bcj ,a4,d41 0 buri$ ) h] gold5 mantle ly+ at h] feet2 & 9 #hba1 :5 ,pope ,pascal op5$ h] grave1 he f\nd ! evid5ce ( h] m>tyrdom 9 t spl5did g>m5t1 %[+ t x _h be5 soak$ 9 blood4#bjb ,!re 7 f\nd "u ! f\ndations ( ! new ,basilica ( ,/4 ,pet]'s1 ! bodies ( ,probus ,anicius & 8 wife1 ,proba ,faltonia1 9 a wrapp+ ( gold4 ,dr4 ,rock gives u m examples1#bjc b we w only add t ( ! wife ( ! ,emp]or ,honorius1 :o 9 ! ye> #djj ,a4,d4 0 buri$ 9 a gold5 dress1 :i* 9 #aedd 0 remov$ f h] grave1 & be+ melt$1 weigh$ #cf lbs4#bjd ,! ,anglo-,saxon tomb op5$ at ,*essell ,d[n1 9 ! ,isle ( ,wight1 conta9$ fragm5ts ( a g>m5t or wrapp+ wov5 ) flat gold plate4 ,^! rema9s are n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,*ild]ic 0 buri$ at ,t\rnai1 #dhe ,a4,d41 & 8 dress ( /rips ( pure gold 0 discov]$ & melt$ 9 #afec4 ,b gold ?read also 0 !n v g5]ally us$ 9 weav+ gold tissues4 ,claudian describes a ,*ri/ian lady1 ,proba1 9 ! f\r? c5tury1 prep>+ ! consul> robes = h] two sons on _! be+ rais$ to ! consulate3#bje-- ,! joyful "m plies h] kn[+ h&s1 ,& works on all ! trabea gold5 b&s2 ,draws ! ?9 /rips to all ! l5g? ( gold1 ,to make ! metal mean] ?reads enfold4 ,pure gold 0 wov5 9 ! d>k ages 9 ,engl&4 ,/4 ,cu?b]t's maniple at ,durham is ( pure gold ?read4 ,john ,g>l& says ! ladies wove gold5 c+ul 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury2 & ,h5ry ,i41 accord+ to ,hov$51 0 clo!d 9 a robe ( /ate ( wov5 gold & gems ( almo/ div9e spl5d\r4#bjf ,a wrapp+ ( beautiful gold brocade cov]$ ! c(f9 ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 :5 8 tomb 0 op5$ 9 #ahga4bjg ,! cope ( ,/4 ,&rew at ,aix1 9 ,switz]l&1 is embroid]$ 9 a v simple patt]n1 ) l>ge circles conta9+ ,/4 ,&rew's crosses4#bjh ,?is is work$ 9 silv] wire gilt1 & is ,byzant9e ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,9 ! writ+s ( ! ,middle ,ages we f9d con/ant ref]5ce to diff]5t gold5 fabrics4 ,among !m are samit or examitur 7a six-?read silk /uff1 preci\sly inwov5 ) gold ?reads72#bji & ciclat\n1#baj :i* 0 rem>kable = ! lightness ( its texture1 & 0 wov5 ) %9+ gold ?reads--b ?\gh light1 x 0 /iff en\gh to c>ry heavy embroid]y4 ,we he> also ( baudek91 nak1 & clo? ( pall4 ,camoca is k9cob4 ,!re appe>s to be a l9k betwe5 embroid]y 9 gold & ! jewell]s' "w :i* 9 ! ,d>k & ,middle ,ages 0 s (t5 appli$ to ecclesia/ical & royal dress & hang+s4 ,?is l9k 0 beat5 gold "w1 aurobacutos1 beat5 "w1 or batony4#baa ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick 9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 w5t ov] to ,france1 hav+ a coat = my "l's body1 beat ) f9e gold 7probably h]aldic designs74 ,= 8 %ip1 a /ream] =ty y>ds long & eight broad1 ) a great be> & griff91 & #djj 'p5cils' ) ! 'ragg$ /aff' 9 silv]4 ,?is mode la/$ "s "t2 = 9 #aech1 ,b>b>a ,mason bequea!d to a *ur* a ve/m5t ( gre5 silk beat5 ) gold4 ,probably ?is beat5 gold 0 really v ?ick gold-leaf laid on ! silk or l95 gr\nd1 z we see /ill 9 "s ,sicilian & ,arab tissues4 ,! embroid]$ bann]s tak5 f ,*>les le ,tmraire1 at ,gr&son1 are f9i%$ ) broad bord]s ( gild$ inscriptions1 su* z might be call$ beat5 gold "w4#bab ,b besides ?is ?ick gold-leaf1 !re 0 ano!r mode ( enri*+ embroid]ies4 ,lam9 ( gold 7 cut into %apes1 & f9i%$ ! "w by acc5tuat+ ! design 9 ,ea/]n embroid]ies2 ,!y are f\nd also 9 ,greek tombs1 & 9 ! ,middle ,ages !y v>i$ f ! little gold5 spangle to _m o!r =ms--circul> r+s1 />s1 cresc5ts1 moons1 leaves1 & solid p5dant w$ges ( gold1 all :i* approa*$ ! art ( ! goldsmi?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,spangles4 ,enamel 0 soon add$ to ! enri*m5t ( ^! gold5 spangles1 plates1 or discs1 :i* 7 enl>g$ to receive a design4#bac ,( ?is /yle ( embelli%m5t we "k none s /rik+ z ! saddle 9 ! ,museum at ,muni*1 said to h be5 tak5 f a ,turki% g5]al 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,?is is ,italian ( ! f9e/ c9que-c5to /yle3 blue velvet1 cov]$ ) beautiful gold embroid]y1 & e vacant space fill$ ) spangles ( endless =ms1 & ( preci\s goldsmi?s' & enamell]s' "w4 ,! ,p]sian /irrups atta*$ to x are ( a totally diff]5t /yle ( enamell+ & jewell]y1 & speak = !mselves1 & = ! s*ool !y came f4#bad ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cc4 ,w9d[ ,hang+1 by ,g5til ,bell9i1 f a ,portrait ( ,mahomet ,,ii41 prop]ty ( ,sir ,h4 ,lay>d4 ,dr4 ,rock describes "p ( a *asuble wr\ght by ,isabella ( ,spa9 & h] maids ( hon\r1 9 :i* ! fl[+ design is work$ out 9 small m\ld$ spangles ( gold & silv]1 set s z to ov]lap ea* o!r & give ! effect ( scales4 ,to a late p]iod1 gold & silv] embroid]ies1 enri*$ ) spangles1 h be5 lavi%$ on ! head-dresses & /oma*]s ( ! peasantry ?r\gh\t ! nor? ( ,europe & ,switz]l&4#bae ,pe>ls & gems1 ei!r ?read$ l beads1 or 9 gold5 sett+s1 are to be /udi$ 9 ! e>ly pictures ( ! ,g]man & ,fr5* s*ools2 & ! ,anglo-,saxons excell$ 9 su* enri*m5ts4 ,sir ,h5ry ,lay>d has a portrait ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 ( ! ,sultan ,mahomet ,,ii41 by ,g5til ,bell9i1 f :i* has be5 copi$ ! accompany+ beautiful embroid]$ design ( a w9d[-hang+4#baf ,! grace ( ! l9es1 & ! delicate ta/e ) :i* ! gems are set 9 ! "w1 are a lesson 9 art 7pl4 #cc74 ,india s5t to ,europe m art 9 gold ?read ?an has ev] be5 produc$ among/ u f our own work%ops4#bag ,! p ( ,goa1 mo/ly ,arabs1 embroid]$ = ! ,portuguese ^? wond]ful fabrics1 glitt]+ ) gold & radiant ) col\rs1 :i* cov] ! b$s & hang ! rooms ?r\gh\t ,portugal & ,spa94#bah ,! preci\s metals 7(t5 =m+ ! :ole gr\nd+7 7 employ$ )\t /9t2 ! patt]ns be+ ei!r embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks & gold2 or on velvets or sat9s1 ) gold alone or mix$ ) silv]4 ,! f9e gold ?reads = embroid]y1 :i* h pres]v$ _! brilliancy = s _m c5turies1 su* z we f9d work$ 9 ,*>lemagne's dalmatic1 9 ,aelfl$'s maniple1 & 9 ! mitres ( ,?omas ,becket1 are c]ta9ly ,ori5tal4 ,to ,engl& !y came 9 ! bales ( ! m]*ants :o br\ght u our silk1 & ev5 our ne$les1 f ,india4 ,lat] we import$ & copi$ ! diff]5t ways ( giv+ effect to inf]ior metals1 & ! ,spani>d's gilt p>*m5t ?read rea*$ u f _! ,moori% manufactories4#bai ,designs 7 sometimes1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 work$ 9 gold twi/$ ) col\r$ silks1 sometimes only /it*$ d[n ) !m4 ,! badges ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,dragon1 in/itut$ by ! ,emp]or ,sigismund1 7 ?us embroid]$1 & plac$ on ! cloaks ( ! knights4 ,! "w 0 s p]fect t x resembl$ jewels ( enamell$ gold4 ,two anci5t ones are 9 ! ,museum at ,muni*4 ,gold or silv] or base metal wire 01 9 ! lat] ,middle ,ages & d[n to our own times1 mu* employ$ 9 ! =m ( :at is call$ purl1 i4e4 coil$ wire cut into %ort l5g?s1 ?read$ on silk1 & sewn d[n4 ,g]man1 ,italian1 & ,engli% embroid]ies 7 (t5 enri*$ ) ?is fabric4 ,sometimes ! wire 0 twi/$ ) col\r$ silks be=e x 0 coil$4 ,!re are beautiful specim5s ( ?is "w ( ! days ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,/ill1 ?r\gh\t ,europe ! be/ works 7 c>ri$ out ) ! be/ mat]ials1 & ^! always came f ! ,ea/4 ,b we sometimes f9d t ! pressure ( circum/ances has = a "t caus$ ! employm5t ( adult]at$ metals t h p]i%$2 & ?us _m f9e works ( art h be5 spoil$4#bbj ,! use ( bad mat]ials has !re=e be5 z un=tunate = art z t ( pure gold1 :i* has tempt$ s _m ignorant p]sons to burn gold5 embroid]ies & tape/ries1 & melt d[n ! ore !y conta94 ,h[ little ( all t human skill & inv5tion h c>efully elaborat$ is n[ pres]v$ to u6 ,to gold & silv] textiles _! mat]ials h be5 (t5 a fatal d[]4 ,x has sometimes puzzl$ any b ! mo/ exp]i5c$ embroid]]s to di/+ui% betwe5 ! /uffs wov5 ) ! gold5 ?reads on ! surface1 & f9ely brocad$ or patt]n$ 9 ! loom2 & ^? o!r clo?s1 embroid]$ by h&1 :i* h be5 s manipulat$ t h>dly an atom ( ! gold c be detect$ at ! back4 ,?is is done by a te*nical mode ( treat+ ! surface1 :i* is m easily %[n ?an describ$4 ,! gold is really drawn into ! spaces betwe5 ! ?reads ( ! canvas or l95 gr\nd+1 b nev] pull$ ?r\gh4 ,= _m reasons ?is is an advantage1 & :5 execut$ cunn+ly1 z x 0 9 ,engl& 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 x is ri*1 beautiful1 la/+1 & economical4 ,x is a peculi> m>k ( ! opus ,anglicanum1 & x is to be se5 9 ! mitre at ,muni*1 :]e ?is /it* is employ$ on a :ite sat9 gr\nd2#bba also 9 ! work+ ( ! two pluvials at ,san ,giovanni ,lat]ano at ,rome1 & at ! ,museum at ,bologna1 z well z t at ,madrid1 :i* are all ?ree ,engli% ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 by design z well z by /it*es4 ,i _c close ?is *apt] )\t nam+ ! _m s*ools ( gold embroid]y 9 ,belgium1 ,france1 ,g]many1 ,italy1 & ,spa94 ,! ,k+ ( ,bav>ia has an e/abli%m5t = gold "w1 & ?is is v f9ely c>ri$ out1 highly rais$1 & ri*ly design$4#bbb ,9 ,spa9 !re is also a ,royal ,s*ool1 :]e /ately works are execut$4 ,x is to be regrett$ t ! mod]n designs are motiveless1 & n s beautiful z ! old ones1 & x is v difficult to h any anci5t piece ( "w copi$ exactly4 ,little mod]nisms creep 9 :]ev] ! patt]n has to be fitt$ into a new %ape2 = ! accompli%$ ne$lewoman is seldom an arti/4 ,all hon\r is due to c]ta9 manufactur]s at ,lyons :o are work+ 9 ! _s ( ! old ma/]s1 & h be5 s]i\sly consid]+ h[ be/ to reproduce ! beautiful s(t surface ( ! gold ?read ( :i* ! secret 0 lo/ 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4#bbc ,! old ,*9ese flat gold 01 ab\t ! sixte5? c5tury1 sup]s$$ by :at 0 manufactur$ 9 ,spa91 & is no long] import$ or1 p]haps1 ev5 made4 #f4 ,,silk4 ,! orig9 & hi/ory ( silk is le>n$ly & elaborately discuss$ 9 ,yates' ,textr9um ,antiquorum4 ,he gives u 8 au?orities1 & lit]al translations = ! b5efit ( ! unle>n$1 :o _c read ! orig9al texts4 ,i h avail$ myself )\t hesitation ( 8 quotations1 & ( ! c>efully consid]$ op9ions he has drawn f !m4 ,x has be5 already said t wool & flax prec$$ silk 9 ,egyptian1 ,greek1 & ,roman manufactures4 ,!re is no c]ta9 m5tion ( silk 9 ! ,books ( ! ,old ,te/am5t4#bbd ,silk is1 h[ev]1 nam$ 9 ! ,code ( ,manu4#bbe ,no %r$ ( silk has be5 f\nd 9 any ,egyptian tomb1 nor till lately1 & ) "o exception only1 9 ^? ( ! ,greeks4 ,aub]ville says1 ,la soie ne fit son app>ition en ,europe que #cjj ans avant notre re4#bbf ,pamphile1 daught] ( ,plates1 ( ,cos1 is said by ,ari/otle to h !re fir/ wov5 silk 7#cjj ,b4,c474 ,probably raw silk 0 br\ght to ,cos f ! int]ior ( ,asia1 & ,pamphile is by "s suppos$ to h effild ! solid manufactur$ silks1 & wov5 !m aga9 into gauzy webs4 ,yates sugge/s t x is possible t ,pamphile obta9$ cocoons & unw\nd !m1 z ! passage 9 ,ari/otle may be s int]pret$4 ,! specim5 ( e>ly silk-weav+ :i* we h above allud$ to1 0 tak5 out ( ! ,tomb ( ! ,sev5 ,bro!rs at ,k]t*1 9 ! ,crimea1 & is ( ! ?ird c5tury ,b4,c4 ,x consi/s ( sev]al bits ( v transp>5t pa9t$ silk4 ,^! fragm5ts are an actual & yet a contempor>y witness to ! tru? ( ! tradition ( ,pamphile's ,coan webs1 :i* are ( ! same date3 possibly !y 7 h] h&iwork4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cd4 #a4 ,classical ,silk4 ,greek4 7,semp]'s ,d] ,/il1 p4 #aib47 #b4 ,classical ,silk4 ,roman4 7,aub]ville1 pl4 #d47 ,:e!r ,pamphile's silk gauzes 7 ! only f9e webs ( ,cos1#bbg is a disput$ "q4 ,%e has ! cr$it ( be+ ! fir/ to clo! victori\s g5]als 9 triumphal g>m5ts1 & %e has be5 immortaliz$ by h] clev]ness & indu/ry4 ,bo? ,ari/otle & ,pl9y ass]t t %e fir/ inv5t$ ! ,coan webs1 & t "s ( !m 7 ( silk is und\bt$4 ,! "q is1 ,h[ came x !re8 :5ce & by :at r\te8 & :at c\ntry 0 its orig9al home & bir?place8 ,aft] /at+ ! pros & cons ( ! "q1 h[ & :]e did silk fir/ make its appe>ance1 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood concludes t bo? ! worm & ! cocoon 7 kn[n to ! ,greeks & ,romans1 by report & r>e specim5s1 f ! "t ( ,alex&]'s return f 8 ,indian campaign4#bbh ,( c\rse ! rema9s ( ^! fabrics are extremely sc>ce2 &1 9 fact1 only two are at pres5t kn[n to me besides ! ,k]t* specim54 ,! fir/ is giv5 9 ,semp]'s ,d] ,/il1 & is evid5tly classical ,greek or ,roman2 b ! silk mat]ial might h be5 effild f an ,ori5tal /uff 7pl4 #cd1 ,no4 #a74 ,! second mu/ h be5 orig9ally a ,roman patt]n1 modifi$ by ! ,p]sian loom 9 :i* x 0 wov54 ,?is may h be5 a ,roman triumphal robe ( ! date ( ,julius ,cs> 7pl4 #cd1 ,no4 #b74 ,x is cle> t ,*9ese silk5 /uffs 7 n g5]ally kn[n 9 ,s\!rn ,europe till ! "t ( ,julius ,cs>1 :o display$ a pr(usion ( silks 9 "s ( 8 spl5did !atrical repres5tations4 ,h[ silk fir/ arriv$ f ! ,ea/ is disput$2 "s say x came by ! ,r$ ,sea1 & o!r au?orities believe x 0 br\ght f ,*9a1 vi ,p]sia1 by l&4 ,b x is n necess>y t x %\ld h ent]$ our civilization by only "o gate4 ,! ,p]iplus ,m>is ,ery?ri makes frequ5t m5tion ( ! trade 9 silks1 ?r\gh ,india1 by ! ,indus to ! coa/s ( ! ,ery?rean ,sea4 ,!y 7 also br\ght ?r\gh ,bactria to ,b>ygaza1 ne> ,surat1 f a city call$ ,?9a 7,*9a874 ,! au?or ( ! ,p]iplus1 ( c\rse1 ref]s to "s place 9 ! c\ntry vaguely call$ ,s]ica4#bbi ,t ! trade :i* br\ght x into ,europe 0 difficult & limit$1 is prov$ by ! fact t silk cont9u$1 ev5 z late z ! ?ird c5tury ( our era1 to be an article ( luxury1 ( :i* ! manufacture & use cont9u$ to be ! subject ( legal enactm5ts & re/rictions1 = #fjj ye>s aft] ,pamphile's fir/ essay 9 silk-weav+ 9 ,cos4 ,! ,s]es 0 ! "n giv5 by ! anci5ts to ! nation :i* produc$ silk2 & x 0 und\bt$ly t accept$ = ! di/ant region n[ call$ ,*9a1 includ+ ,corea1 & lat]1 ! k+dom ( ,khotan4 ,! fir/ m5tion ( ^! p z a di/9ct nation is by ,mela 7iii4 #g71 :o speaks ( !m z an hone/ p1 :o br+ :at !y h to sell1 & return = _! paym5ts4#bcj ,! prevail+ idea among/ ! ,greeks 0 t silk 0 comb$ f ! trees4 ,s5eca says3-- ,nor ) ,monian ne$le m>k ! web1 ,ga!r$ by ,ea/]n ,s]es f ! trees4 ,s5eca ! ,trag$ian1 ,h]c4 tu1 #fdd4bca ,?is 01 till lately1 believ$ to be only a fiction1 int5d$ to hide ! tru? & enhance ! value ( ! new ,coan mat]ial4 ,b x is n[ asc]ta9$ t "s ( ! wild silk 9 ,*9a is c>ri$ by ! silkworm r\nd ! trees1 wrapp+ !m up1 z x 71 9 l>ge1 untidy cocoons2 s t1 z usual1 tradition _h tru? = its f\ndation4 ,!re 0 always mu* my/]i\s report ab\t ! new mat]ial4 ,dionysius ,p]iegetes tells ( a b>b>\s p call$ ! ,s]es1 :o r5\nce ! c>e ( %eep & ox51 b :o comb ! col\r$ fl[]s ( ! des]t1 & ) !m produce wov5 preci\s /uffs1 ( :i* !y make figur$ g>m5ts1 resembl+ ! fl[]s ( ! field 9 beauty1 & 9 texture ! web ( ! spid]4#bcb ,!re is no d\bt t z ,egypt 0 ! fir/ to weave l951 & ,india to produce cotton textiles1 s 9 ,*9a orig9at$ ! mat]ial ( silk & its manufacture4 ,m4 ,t]ri5 de la ,c\p]ie1 :o has deciph]$ ! ,ar*aic books ( ! ,*9ese ,records1 sees !re excell5t l+ui/ic pro(s t ! ,*9ese nation 0 orig9ally a fragm5t ( ! fir/ ,babylonian civilization4 ,he !re f9ds t :5 ^! ,accadians arriv$ on ! fur!/ ea/]n coa/ ( ,asia1 !y met ) & enslav$ an aborig9al race1 :o already cultivat$ ! silkworm1 & wove & work$ its produce1 & 7 call$ by !m ! ,embroid]]s4#bcc ,?is is suppos$ to h be5 an hi/orical ev5t contempor>y ) ! life ( ,abraham1 &1 !re=e1 #ejjj ye>s old4 ,! ,*9ese say t ,tek9 or ,s91 ! son ( ,japhet1 in/ruct$ 8 *ildr5 9 pa9t+1 sculpture1 & embroid]y1 & 9 ! art ( prep>+ silk = diff]5t wov5 fabrics4#bcd ,:e!r we are ju/ifi$ or n 9 believ+ 9 s v e>ly a date1 at any rate we mu/ rememb] t x is n[ asc]ta9$ t silk 0 us$ 9 ,*9a #bfjj ye>s be=e our era4 ,aub]ville says !re is a leg5d t ! ,empress ,si-l+-*i#bce 7#bfjj ,b4,c47 _h ! happy inspiration to inv5t ! unw9d+ ( ! cocoon be=e ! insect cut ! ?reads2 & = ?is discov]y %e 0 plac$ among ! div9ities4 ,be=e h] "t1 !y _h c]ta9ly = m ?an #cjj ye>s us$ ! preci\s mat]ial 9 its mutilat$ condition4#bcf ,"s c5turies lat] ! ,emp]or ,*an receiv$ tribute 9 l95s & silk5 /uffs4 ,tissues ( _m col\rs 7 pa9t$ or ri*ly embroid]$4#bcg ,9 ! second c5tury ,a4,d41 a pr9ce ( ,khotan1#bch ,kiu-sa-tan-na1 0 desir\s ( obta9+ f ,*9a ! eggs ( ! silkworm1 b 8 reque/ 0 refus$2 & x 0 prohibit$ t ei!r eggs ( ! silkworm or se$ ( mulb]ry-trees %\ld cross ! bord]4 ,!n ! ,k+ ( ,khotan ask$ = a ,*9ese pr9cess 9 m>riage1 & ?is fav\r be+ grant$1 he f\nd means to in=m ! lady privately t 9 h] future k+dom %e w\ld f9d no silk to weave or "w4 ,! dread ( su* an aimless life r\s$ all h] womanly in/9cts4 ,defiance ( ! law1 love ( smuggl+1 & ! wi% to please h] husb& & b5efit h] future p1 gave h] c\rage to conceal ! eggs & se$s 9 ! folds ( h] dress & ! me%es ( h] beautiful hair1 & s %e c>ri$ a mo/ preci\s d[] into h] adopt$ c\ntry4#bci ,?us 0 brok5 ! spell :i* = m ?an #cjjj ye>s _h conf9$ ! secret ( ,*9a )9 ! f5ce ( its wond]ful wall2 & lat] on1 ,a4,d4 #ecj1 ! eggs 7 br\ght to ,byzantium4#bdj ,f ,*9a1 !re=e1 comes our silk4#bda ,we may say x is trac$ to ! beg9n+2 b h[ f> back _h ! ar*ologi/ to grope be=e he c\ld f9d x6 ,i transcribe a few m quotations f ,yates' translations & au?orities4#bdb ,9 ! ,hippolytus ( ,euripides1 #chc1 ,phdra loquitur3-- ,remove1 ye maids1 ! ve/s ^: tissue gl>es ,) purple & ) gold2 f> be ! r$ ,( ,syrian murex2 ?is ! %9+ ?read ,:i* fur!/ ,s]es ga!rs f ! b\ghs4 ,lucan describes ! transp>5t mat]ial :i* veil$ ,cleopatra's =m3-- ,h] sn[y brea/ %9es ?r\gh ,sidonian ?reads1 ,fir/ by ! comb ( di/ant ,s]es /ruck2 ,divid$ !n by ,egypt's skilful h&1 ,& ) embroid]y transp>5t made4 ,pl9y's acc\nt ( silk & its manufacture is mo/ly fanciful1 ?\gh f\nd$ on half-kn[n facts4 ,! ,lat9 poets ( ! ,augu/an age speak ( silk attire ) o!r luxuri\s cu/oms f ! ,ea/4#bdc ,! ,roman s5ate1 9 ! reign ( ,tib]ius1 decre$ t only wom5 %\ld we> silk1 on acc\nt ( its effem9acy4 ,silk 0 accumulat$ = ! w>drobes ( ! empresses till ,a4,d4 #agf1 :5 ,m>cus ,aurelius1 ! ,philosoph]1 sold all ! imp]ial ornam5ts & ! silk5 robes ( 8 empress by auction 9 ! ,=um ( ,trajan4#bdd ,we le>n t silk 0 preci\s & fabul\sly e/eem$ to ! end ( ! second c5tury ,a4,d42 b x is seldom m5tion$ 9 ! ?ird c5tury4 lius ,lampridius speaks ( a silk5 cord ) :i* to hang himself1 z an imp]ial extravagance on ! "p ( ,heliogabalus 7& ( ?is only "o /r& 0 silk72 & he m5tions t ,alex&] ,sev]us r>ely all[$ himself a dress ( silk 7holos]icum71 & only gave away robes ( p>tly silk5 sub/ance4 ,flavius ,vopiscus says t ,aurelian _h no dress :olly ( silk 7holos]icum74#bde ,8 wife begg$ him to all[ h] a %awl ( purple silk1 & he repli$1 ,f> be x f me to p]mit ?read to be reckon$ wor? its weight 9 gold6--= a p\nd ( gold 0 !n wor? a p\nd ( silk4 ,flavius ,vopiscus fur!r /ates t ! ,emp]or ,c>9us1 h[ev]1 gave away silk5 g>m5ts1 z well z dresses ( gold & silv]1 to ,greek artific]s1 play]s1 wre/l]s1 & musicians4#bdf ,yates gives u a translation ( an edict ( ,diocletian1 giv+ a maximum ( prices = articles 9 common use 9 ! ,roman empire4 ,x reads l a tailor's or a dress-mak]'s bill ( to-day3-- ,,d5>ii4 ,to ! tailor1 = l9+ a f9e ve/ #f ,to ! same1 = an op5+ ( an edg+ ( silk #ej ,to ! same1 = an op5+ & an edg+ ( a mix$ tissue ( silk & flax #cj ,= an edg+ ( a co>s] ve/ #dbdg ,a monum5t at ,tivoli is erect$ to ! memory ( 8 e/imable wife1 ,val]ia ,*rysis1 by ,m4 ,n4 ,poculus1 silk manufactur]4 ,?is 0 probably an imp]ial (fice 9 ! f\r? c5tury4#bdh ,f ! fir/ to ! six? c5turies1 poets & hi/orians cont9ually speak ( silk1#bdi prais+ its beauty or blam+ x z extravagance or luxury2 b accord+ to ,yates1 all ! in=mation we collect f ^! s\rces requires to be te/$ z to accuracy1 & is (t5 errone\s4 ,i h spok5 ( ! fir/ silk-weav+ 9 ,cos1 #cjj ,b4,c4 ,! fir/ arrival ( ! silkworm 9 ,europe 0 9 ! six? c5tury1 #ijj ye>s lat]4 ,cosmas ,indicopleu/es & ano!r monk br\ght eggs f ,*9a 9 ! holl[ /aves !y c>ri$ 9 _! h&s4 ,?is 0 a great ev5t 9 ,european comm]ce4 ,! eggs 7 solemnly pres5t$ to ! ,emp]or ,ju/9ian1 & ! monopoly ( _! cultivation is to be f\nd 9 8 law-orda9+ codex4#bej ,! monopoly ( ! silk manufactures 0 conf9$ to ! area ( ! imp]ial palace ( ,con/ant9ople1 b ! cultivation ( ! worm gradually spread ov] ,greece1 ,asia ,m9or1 & ,india4 ,! fir/ allusion to ! use ( silk 9 ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* is by ,gregory ,nazianz5 7,a4,d4 #cgj71 ,ad ,hell5ium pro ,mon>*is ,c>m53 ,silv] & gold "s br+ to ,god1 or ! f9e ?read by ,s]es spun4#bea ,basil illu/rates ! idea ( ! resurrection by ! bir? ( ! butt]fly f ! cocoon4#beb ,paul ! ,sil5ti>y 7,a4,d4 #efb7 alludes to ! frequ5t use ( silk 9 ! prie/s' ve/m5ts at ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,sophia at ,con/ant9ople4 ,b$e relates t ! fir/ ,abbot ( ,we>m\? w5t to ,rome = ! fif? "t 9 ,a4,d4 #fhe1 & br\ght back ) him two sc>ves or palls ( incomp>able workman%ip1 & entirely ( silk1 ) :i* he pur*as$ l& ( ?ree families at ! m\? ( ! ,we>4 ,b$e's own rema9s 7 wrapp$ 9 silk4 ,aub]ville gives u1 9 8 ,tissus1 specim5s ( ,roman silks betwe5 ! fir/ & sev5? c5turies1 b he _c fix _! exact date4#bec ,! f9e/ webs ( ,holos]icum f ! imp]ial looms 7 g5]ally be/[$ ^u ! ,*ur*1 & ?us consecrat$1 ! e>lie/ asc]ta9$ specim5s t h surviv$ h be5 pres]v$2 & ( ^!1 mo/ h be5 f\nd 9 ! tombs ( sa9ts1 bi%ops1 & k+s :o 7 buri$ 9 prie/ly z well z 9 royal g>m5ts4#bed ,among ! silk & sat9 fabrics1 ! tissue call$ ,imp]ial is m5tion$ by sev]al e>ly ,engli% au?ors4 ,rog] de ,w5dov] & ,mat!w ,p>is describe ! app>ition ( ,k+ ,john z clad 9 royal robes ( ,imp]ial4#bee ,william de ,magna ,villa br\ght f ,greece1 9 #aagj1 a /uff call$ ,imp]ial1 m>bl$ or v>iegat$1 & cov]$ ) lions wov5 9 gold4 ,9 ! ,ea/]n ,empire1 ?is indu/ry aft] a "t fell into ! h&s ( ! ,jews2 & 9 #aafa1 ,b5jam9 ( ,tudela says ! city ( ,!bes conta9$ ab\t #bjjj ,jewi% silk-weav]s4 ,! bre$+ ( ! worm 9 ,europe seems to h be5 conf9$ to ,greece f ! "t ( ,ju/9ian to ! twelf? c5tury2 b 9 #aadh1 ,rog]1 ,k+ ( ,sicily1 br\ght z prison]s ( w>1 f ,cor9?1 ,!bes1 & ,a!ns1 _m silk-weav]s1 & settl$ !m at ,pal]mo4 ,!n might be se5 ,cor9?ians & ,!bans ( bo? sexes1 employ$ 9 weav+ velvet /oles int]wov5 ) gold1 & s]v+ l ! ,eretrians ( old among ! ,p]sians4#bef ,hugh ,falc&us#beg has left a description ( ! ,royal manufactory at ,pal]mo1 & ! ,hotel de ,tiraz :i* absorb$ all ! small] ,s>ac5ic factories already />t$4 ,! ,hotel de ,tiraz _h f\r great work%ops1 9 :i* 7 sep>ately c>ri$ on ! weav+ ( pla9 tissues1 velvets1 examits & sat9s1 & fl[]$ /uffs 7damasks71 & la/ly1 gold brocades & embroid]ies4 ,x 0 f ! la/ t proce$$ ! real works ( art1 & ! embroid]ies ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4#beh ,! highe/ ef=ts ( ! loom 7 app>5tly f9i%$ ) ! ne$le1#bei z 9 ! figur$ textiles ( ,egypt4 ,! cont9uity ( ,sicilian textile designs f ! six? to ! sixte5? c5turies 7a ?\s& ye>s7 is v rem>kable4 ,ow+ to its orig9ally /rongly /amp$ ,ori5tal "*1 great k ( ! arts ( weav+1 sp9n+1 & dye+ silk is requir$ to enable any "o to assign an exact date to mat]ials :i* only remodell$ _! /yle ?ree times4 ,dr4 ,rock's rules = deciph]+ ^! ?ree dates may1 h[ev]1 be easily le>n$1 z !y are broad & simple4 ,9 8 compreh5sive ,introduction to ! ,textiles 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum 7p4 lxvii7 he says t ! ?ree def9$ p]iods ( silk-weav+ 9 ,sicily are3 ,fir/1 f ! "t ( ,ju/9ian to ! ,hoh5/auf5 7f ! six? to ! twelf? c5tury72 secondly1 f ! accession ( ,fr$]ick ,i4 7,b>b>ossa71 #aaeb1 to ,*>les ,,iv41 #acdg 7twelf? to f\rte5? c5turies72 ! ?ird p]iod is ( "o c5tury only1 f #acdg to #adef4 ,! fir/ p]iod especially %[s ,african animals1 su* z ! giraffe & ! diff]5t k9ds ( antelopes1 mix$ ) ,arabian mottoes2 & ! patt]ns are g5]ally wov5 ) gold4 ,?is is m]ely gilt p>*m5t1 ! silk be+ m+l$ ) cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ce4 ,peacock ,patt]n4 ,silk ,wrapp+ on ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,durham4 ,! second p]iod1 beg9n+ 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 %[s ! arrival ( ,c\nt ,rog]'s ,p]sian & ,greek workm51 captives f ,!bes1 ,cor9?1 & ,a!ns4 ,! fre% designs %[ fragm5ts ( ,greek ta/e1 su* z masks & foliage1 & give "o a slight =eta/e ( ! ,r5aissance4#bfj ,^! semi-classical e*oes are contempor>y 9 ! ,sicilian looms ) su* ,norman motives z a cr[n$ sov]eign rid+ ) a hawk ^u 8 wri/4 ,?is description s+ul>ly applies to ! relics remov$ f ! tomb ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 at ,durham1 9 #ahbg2 among :i* are fragm5ts ( ?ree wrapp+s1 or g>m5ts ( silk1 s sugge/ive ( ! arti/ic traditions ( _m nationalities1 & ! long desc5t ( patt]ns1 recognizable aft] ! lapse ( c5turies1 t a description ( !m1 accompani$ by illu/rations1 c h>dly fail to be int]e/+4 ,!y are all n[ r$uc$ by "t to a ri* gold5 br[n1 ?\gh !re are indications t blue1 gre51 & r$ h be5 wov5 into _! fabric1 & !re are also on "o ( !m traces ( gild+4 ,! fir/ 7plate #ce7 %[s ,ori5tal conv5tional peacocks1 d\ble-head$ & coll>$1 fram$ )9 circles :i* slightly int]sect ea* o!r1 ?us giv+ ! opportunity = v>y+ ! orig9al motive by break+ up ! roll+ arabesqu$ patt]n1 & unit+ ! /ems & fl[]s conta9$ 9 ! bord]4 ,! spaces betwe5 ! circles are fill$ 9 ) gryphons 9 pairs1 ( ! ,babylonian /amp1 ?ick limb$ ) /rongly-m>k$ muscles4 ,!re is a bord] or guimp1 ,p]sian 9 "*1 9 :i* are small crosses surm\nt+ repetitions ( ! cr5elat$ patt]n f\nd 9 ,assyrian ornam5t4 ,! second piece ( silk conta9s a l>ge rosace4 ,scatt]$ ab\t x are repetitions ( ! ,p]sian leaf or tree ( life1 & ! bord] consi/s ( kneel+ h>es or fawns betwe5 a ,p]sian arabesque & a cord$ l9e4 ,! mixture ( ,egyptian & ,assyrian /yles is rem>kable ?r\gh\t1 till we come to ! c5tre ( ! rosace1 :]e we f9d a mo/ incongru\s man 9 arm\r on horseback ) a hawk on 8 wri/1 giv+ ! ,norman /amp ( ! reign+ h\se & influ5ce 9 ,sicily4 ,! c5tral subject is exactly repeat$ on an embroid]$ twelf? c5tury *asuble 9 ! treasury ( ! ,ca!dral ( ,bamb]g1 only t a royal cr[n & robes are worn by ! horseman 7pl4 #cf74bfa ,! ?ird specim5 is ! mo/ notewor?y 7plate #cg74 ,!re is no?+ ( ,assyrian "h1 b x rem9ds "o ( ,egyptian & ,greek art1 & at once sugge/s ,c\nt ,rog]'s ,greek slaves at ! ,sicilian looms1 b ! design is probably ( a mu* e>li] date1 & ! subject is puzzl+4 ,a piece ( drap]y resembl+ an ,egyptian sail ) its fr+es#bfb 7pl4 #ch7 is loop$ up on ea* side to ! head ( a ?yrsus1 & above x hangs a l>ge clu/] ( fruits4 ,! l[] "p ( ! drap]y re/s ^u wat]1 & is some:at l a boat1 ) ducks swimm+ t[>ds x1 & fi% disport+ !mselves 9 ! rippl+ waves4 ,betwe5 ! circles ! ducks are repeat$1 fac+ a %ield enri*$ ) r[s ( ! cr5elat$ patt]n surm\nt$ by a v9e4 ,^! fragm5ts h belong$ ea* to a v l>ge & freely wov5 silk %awl or mantle4 ,! circles are ab\t two feet across4 ,!re is a diff]5t arrangem5t ( ! ?reads 9 ea* web1 giv+ diff]5t f9e diap]s1 & ! la/ describ$ has a rais$ patt]n :i* might h be5 int5d$ to repres5t wat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cf4 ,,norman ,,& ,,p]sian ,,type4 ,a ,silk ,wrapp+ on ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,durham4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #cg4 ,,gr,,co-,,egyptian ,,/yle4 ,a ,silk ,wrapp+ on ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,durham4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ch4 ,boat ) col\r$ sail1 f ! tomb ( ,rameses ,,iii4 at ,!bes4 7,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 iii4 p4 #baa47 ,explanatory ( ! design on ,/4 ,cu?b]t's silk %r\d1 pl4 #cg4 ,x is mo/ likely t 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 or ev5 a little lat]1 ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t 0 wrapp$ 9 ^! %awls1 & s left :5 at ! ,re=mation1 8 %r9e 0 de/roy$1 & ! c(f] conta9+ 8 rema9s buri$ 9 ! same place1 & pi\sly conceal$ till our own day4 ,i %all describe ! beautiful embroid]ies 9 :i* ! body _h be5 clo!d 9 ! t5? c5tury :5 ,i come to ! subject ( ,engli% "w4 ,! ?ird p]iod ( silk-weav+ art is unmi/akably ,sicilian4 ,at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury & beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5?1 ,pal]mo /ruck out h] own l9e4 ,! ,greek cross appe>s 9 v>i\s =ms4 ,! designs are ( a wond]ful ri*ness & caprici\s +5uity4 ,!y %[ alike ,asiatic1 ,african1 & ,european animals1 & e k9d ( my?ological creature--griff9s1 dragons1 dogs1 & h>ts1 ) l>ge w+s2 swans1 pheasants1 & eagles1 s+le or d\ble-head$1 (t5 peck+ at ! sun's rays2 beautifully drawn foliage & fl[]s1 & h]aldic emblems & coats-(-arms4 ,"o peculi>ity ( ! ?ird p]iod is ! frequ5t use ( gre5 patt]ns on murrey-col\r$ gr\nds4 ,all ?is spl5d\r ( design 0 commonly lavi%$ on poor mat]ial4 ,! silks cont9u$ to be mix$ ) cotton1 & ! gold1 or r ! gild+1 0 s base t x has almo/ always become black on ! f\ndation /rips ( p>*m5t or pap]4#bfc ,! h]aldic silks are mo/ly ( ! "t ( ! ,crusades1 :5 ! di/+ui%$ pilgrims & w>riors1 especially ! ,engli%1 made ,sicily _! half-way h\se to ! ,holy ,l&1 & br\ght f !nce fabrics wov5 to suit _! ta/es4 ,9 ,aub]ville's book we f9d1 "u ! dates ( _m c5turies1 ! mo/ rem>kable fragm5ts n[ kn[n4 ,on portrait-tombs & 9 "s v anci5t pictures are figur$ beautiful silks wov5 9 gold1 :i* are recognizable at once by _! ,arab-,sicilian /yle4 ,( ?is type1 ! rem>kable fragm5t ( ! dress ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 dates itself1 by c>ry+ ! cognizances ( 8 gr&fa!r & 8 "m1 & ! portrait ( 8 dog ,ma?4#bfd ,! la/ p]iod ( ! ,sicilian silks is especially m>k$ by ! inscriptions be+ mo/ly nons5se1 & only wov5 9 z ornam5t1 ) ! =ms ( ,arab lett]+4#bfe ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood says t :e!r ! ,s>ac5s f\nd ! manufacture ( silk already e/abli%$ 9 ,india or n1 !y c]ta9ly influ5c$ ! decorative designs4 ,he adds t k9cobs are n[ wov5 at ,ahm$abad & ,b5>es1 id5tical 9 design ) ! old ,sicilian brocades2 :ile ! ,s>ac5ic ,sicilian silks ab\nd 9 patt]ns :i* prove _! orig9 9 ,assyrian1 ,sassanian1 or ,indian art4 ,we "k t ! ,s>ac5s introduc$ colonies ( ,p]sian1 & probably ,indian workm5 into ,spa91 aft] ! beg9n+ ( ! n9? c5tury1 to assi/ !m 9 _! ar*itecture & textile manufactures1 & 9 return ! ,mogul emp]ors ( ,delhi invit$ _m ,italian & ,fr5* design]s into ,india4 ,! ,taj & o!r build+s 9 ,rajpootana are decorat$ ) exquisite mosaics coeval ) ^? ( ,au/9 ( ,bordeaux4 ,_! /yles ( art 9 textiles1 & 9 o!r mat]ials1 h act$ & react$ ^u ea* o!r2 & no?+ ?r[s m light on ! aff9ities & ! developm5t ( ! mod]n decorative arts ( ,europe ?an ! hi/ory ( ! introduction1 "u ,ju/9ian1 ( ! silk manufactures f ! ,ea/ into ! ,we/4#bff ,f ,pal]mo1 all ! /ages ( ! manufacture ( silk spread !mselves ov] ,italy & into ,spa94 ,accord+ to ,nicolo ,tegr9i1 ! fl\ri%+ silk-weav]s ( ,lucca hav+ be5 eject$ f ! city 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 c>ri$ _! art else:]e1 & ev5 to ,g]many1 ,france1 & ,brita94#bfg ,italian weav]s w5t to ,lyons 9 #adej1 & s />t$ ! silk indu/ry t x has /eadily increas$ till n[4 ,x gives employm5t to ab\t #ca1jjj looms & #bdj1jjj workpeople ( bo? sexes4 ,! ,moors1 :5 !y ov]fl[$ into ,ib]ia1 c>ri$ ) !m all _! ,ori5talisms1 traditions1 manufactures1 & designs2 ?us disobey+ _! prophet1 :o =bade ! use ( silk except to wom54 ,s5hor ,f4 de ,riano tells u t f ! n9? to ! elev5? c5turies1 ,spa9 0 produc+ f9e silk tissues4 ,! ,moori% ,cordovese writ]1 ,a%-,%ak&i1 :o liv$ 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 says1 ,malaga is fam\s = its manufactures ( silks ( all col\rs & patt]ns1 "s ( :i* are s ri* t a suit made ( !m w co/ _m ?\s&s4 ,su* are ! brocades ) beautiful designs & ! names ( ! ,caliphs1 ,ame]s1 & o!r weal?y p wov5 into !m4#bfh ,! same au?or1 speak+ ( ! manufactures ( silk at ,alm]ia1 says t !nce came ! brighte/ col\rs2 & ,al-,makh>i adds a li/ ( preci\s silk tissues1 nam+ ! ,tiraz1 ! ,iscalaton1 & ! robes call$ ea* by its own special "n4#bfi ,a%-,%ak&i also m5tions ! looms ( ,murcia1 & its c>pets4#bgj ,:5 ! ,moors 7 driv5 f ,spa91 ! silk works ( ,malaga & ,alm]ia 7 ru9$4 ,b ^? ( ,val5cia became fam\s1 & fl\ri% to ?is day4 ,talav]a della ,re9a also produces f9e ecclesia/ical fabrics1 & at ,tol$o ! anci5t traditions are pres]v$1 & !y /ill weave sixte5?-c5tury designs4 ,9 ,italy1 ,g5oa1 ,flor5ce1 & ,milan foll[$ ! ,sicilian silk manufactures1 & ea* has left specim5s ( ! craft1 ( :i* ,rock has po9t$ out ! m>k$ individualities4 ,! ri* /uffs ) inscriptions inwov5 9 gold1 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 7 call$ lit]atis4 ,! designs ( ,lucca at fir/ imitat$ ! ,moori% ,sicilian type2 & introduc$ z _! speciality1 :ite figures1 su* z angels 9 :ite g>m5ts1 & ex*ang$ ! ,ori5tal intricate patt]ns = a bold] & simpl] /yle4 ,v5ice1 ( c\rse1 also %[$ at fir/ ! ,ori5tal impress2 b %e soon /ruck out a l9e ( h] own2 & h] especial inv5tion 0 %[n 9 weav+1 f ! ?irte5? to ! sixte5? c5turies1 squ>e pieces ( silk5 tissue1 repres5t+ sacr$ subjects4 ,flor5t9e tissues1 especially _! velvet & gold brocades1 7 p>ticul>ly spl5did1 & c be recogniz$ by ! loops ( gold ?read drawn to ! surface & left !re4 ,( ^! e>ly ,flor5t9e gold brocades we h /ill beautiful examples 9 ! palls ( our ,city companies & 9 anci5t ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts4 ,! loops ( gold h be5 ! cu/om s9ce ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & /ill prevail 9 c]ta9 traditional fabrics1 = in/ance1 9 ! bann]s wov5 annually = ! prizes at ! horse races 9 ,flor5ce4 ,! ,cors9i family1 :o h = _m g5]ations & = hundr$s ( ye>s compet$ 9 ^! races1 _h1 9 _! pr9cely palace at ,rome1 a room entirely hung ) ! silk ( ^! gorge\s bann]s4 ,9 ,hung>y1 ,que5 ,gisela1 9 ! elev5? c5tury1 e/abli%$ looms = weav+ silk2 & _m conv5ts ?r\gh\t ,europe & 9 ,engl& wove silk5 tissues = ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*1 till ! great manufactures absorb$ ^! p>tially private ent]prises4#bga ,individual ex]tion produc$ copies1 or motives t are tak5 f ,ea/]n1 ,s\!rn1 or ,nor!rn inspirations2 b x is only 9 l>ge national s*ools ( arts or crafts t an absolutely recognizable /yle becomes app>5t4 ,= example1 ! e>ly ,fr5* silks f mona/ic e/abli%m5ts are n rem>kable = ei!r /yle or texture till ! sixte5? c5tury1 :5 !y came to ! front z a national manufacture1 & h held ! highe/ place 9 silk-weav+ ev] s9ce4 ,! ,flemi% t[ns ( ,ypres1 ,gh5t1 & ,me*l9 7 kn[n = _! silk5 webs 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & at t "t innum]able small s*ools ( ! craft seem to h cov]$ ,europe4 ,!y are con/antly nam$ 9 ! li/s ( f9e furni%+s 9 ,g]many4 ,9 ,engl&1 ,france1 & ,g]many1 z well z 9 ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 ea* conv5t _h1 besides its silk-weav+ looms1 its work%ops = embroid]ies on silk1 wooll5s1 & l95s1 borr[+ f ! ,byzant9e ,empire1 ,sicily1 & ,spa91 _! designs & patt]ns4 ,ab\t ?is "t 7! ?irte5? c5tury71 ,m>co ,polo resid$ & travell$ 9 ,asia4 ,he visit$ ! pr9cipal cities ( ,syria1 ,p]sia1 ,khotan1 & ,ca?ay1 & f him we h in=mation ( ! diff]5t ,asiatic textiles1 g5]ally be>+ ! "n ( ! city :]e !y 7 wov54 ,he names1 = in/ance1 ! m$ival baudas & baudak9 7) endless modifications 9 ! spell+71 f ,baghdad4 ,?is aft]w>ds gave ! ^w balda*9o to ! awn+ or canopy ov] ! alt>1 :i* x reta9$ ev5 :5 textiles _h giv5 place to m>bles & mosaics4#bgb ,sat9 is only f\nd nam$ 9 catalogues ab\t ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,b ! dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne1 at ,rome1 is embroid]$ on a /\t blue sat91 & has nev] be5 transf]r$2 & at ,con/ant9ople1 ,baldw9 ,,ii41 at 8 coronation 9 #abjd1 0 %od & clo!d 9 v]milion sat9 embroid]$ ) jewels2 :ile all ! ,v5etian & ,fr5* b>ons pres5t 7 clad 9 sat94#bgc ,semp] & ,bock believe t x _h be5 a ,*9ese mat]ial long be=e x rea*$ ,europe4 ,sat9 0 (t5 call$ blatt91 9 connection ) ! col\r ( ! co*9eal insect 7blatta71 ^: dye 0 inv>iably us$ = sat94 ,we _c tell1 h[ev]1 :i* 0 c]ta9ly nam$ f ! o!r4#bgd ,9 ! poem ( ,! ,lady ( ! ,f\nta91 translat$ by ,lady ,*>lotte ,gue/ f ! ,wel% ballads ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 silk & sat9 are (t5 nam$4 ,at ! op5+ ( ! poem1 ,k+ ,ar?ur is describ$ seat$ on a ?rone ( ru%es1 cov]$ ) a flame-col\r$ sat9 clo?1 & ) a r$ sat9 cu%ion "u 8 elb[4 ,fi]y r$ 0 ! or?odox col\r = sat94 ,9 old ,g]man poems we f9d x describ$ z pfellat1 always z be+ fi]y4 ,"o k9d ( pfellat 0 call$ salam&]4#bge ,bruges sat9s 7 ! mo/ e/eem$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,*auc] speaks ( sat9 ri*e & newe4#bgf ,sat9 & velvet are ! contra/+ silk5 mat]ials4 ,9 sat9 ! ?reads are laid along s t ! %9+ surface ripples ) e ray ( sun%9e1 & ! %ad[s are melt$ into half-lights by ! reflections f e fold4 ,x makes a dazzl+ g>m5t1 spl5did 9 its radiant %e52 :]eas 9 velvet1 :]e ea* ?read is plac$ upright & %orn smoo?ly1 all light is absorb$ & !re are no reflections1 & ! :ole effects are solemn1 ri*1 & deep4#bgg ,"s ( ! olde/ velvets resemble plu% 9 ! l5g? ( _! pile1 & h n ! dignity ( velvet4 ,semp]1 f ! diff]5t d]ivations t h be5 sugge/$1 selects ! connection ( ! ^w velvet 7,g]man1 ,felb]t7 ) welf1 ! sk9 or fur ( an animal4#bgh ,among ! gifts to ,*>lemagne 7n9? c5tury7 f ,h>\n el ,ras*id 7 velvets2 & ! e>lie/ exi/+ specim5 we "k ( is nam$ by ,bock z be+ 9 ! ,p]gam5t ,codex at ,le ,puy1 9 ,v5dme1 :]e1 among/ o!r curi\s int]leav$ specim5s ( weav+1 is a f9e piece ( %orn silk velvet4#bgi ,m>co ,polo1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 frequ5tly speaks ( velvet z an ,asiatic fabric4 ,x is fir/ kn[n z a ,european textile 9 ,lucca1 ab\t #abie1 & we may !re=e say t x 0 import$ f ! ,ea/4#bhj ,9 ! next *apt] on col\r ,i h notic$ ! curi\s fact t ! ^w purple 0 sometimes us$ to mean col\r1 & sometimes to express ! texture ( velvet1 ?us conf\nd+ ! two2 b ,i h also po9t$ out t x _h o!r mean+s1 & _h become a v compreh5sive ^w = ev]y?+ t express$ ri*ness & w>m?4 ,:ile exam9+ & judg+ embroid]ies1 we mu/ be c>eful n to be deceiv$ by ! diff]5t dates (t5 occurr+ 9 ! gr\nd+ & ! appli$ mat]ials4 ,mu* embroid]y 0 work$ on fabrics t 7 already old & ev5 worn out2 & o!rs h be5 transf]r$ c5turies ago1 & p]haps m ?an once1 to fre% gr\nds4#bha ,?is sometimes causes a good deal ( difficulty 9 dat+ specim5s4 ,"o %\ld beg9 by asc]ta9+ :e!r ! ne$lework 0 orig9ally int5d$ to be cut out 7opus consutum71 & s laid on a gr\nd ( ano!r mat]ial1 & work$ d[n & f9i%$ !re4 ,( c\rse x is always evid5t & easily asc]ta9$1 :e!r ! "w has be5 transf]r$ at all4 ,if s--& f ea* succe$+ transf]5ce--small fragm5ts may be f\nd %[+ on ! cut edges4 ,y w (t5 see rema9s ( two or m ( ^! lay]s1 rem9d+ y ( ! ?ree ,trojan cities dug up at diff]5t dep?s "u ea* o!r at ,hiss>lik4 ,9 judg+ ea* specim5 ! acum5 ( ! exp]t is ne$$ to obta9 a correct op9ion1 & he %\ld n only be an ar*ologi/1 b a botani/ & a h]ald besides2#bhb &1 9 fact1 no k9d ( k is useless 9 deciph]+ ! secrets ( human art4 ,b ev5 :5 s arm$1 he is (t5 *eck$ & puzzl$ by "s accid5tal caprice ( design or mode ( weav+1 & aft] wa/+ tr\ble & "t1 has to ca/ x aside z defy+ classification4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 z well to note ^! exceptions1 z1 :5 comp>$1 !y sometimes expla9 ea* o!r4 ,:at ,i h said reg>ds1 ( c\rse1 ! hi/orical & ar*ological side ( ! /udy ( textiles1 & ,i h treat$ ( !m z be+ ei!r ! orig9 or ! imitations ( diff]5t /yles ( embroid]y1 & s insep>ably connect$ ) ! art :i* is ! subject & motive ( ?is book2 & n only 9 ?is does ! connection betwe5 !m exi/1 b 9 ! fact t z embroid]ies always ne$ a gr\nd1 silk5 & o!r textiles are an absolute necessity to _! exi/5ce4 ,= ^! reasons alone ,i h giv5 ?is *apt] on mat]ials1 %ort & imp]fect1 b sugge/+ fur!r rese>* into ! writ+s ( ! au?ors ,i h quot$1 &1 ,i hope1 excit+ ! int]e/ ( ! read]4 ,,footnotes3 #acj ,p]iplus ( ! ,ery?rean ,sea4 #aca ,x is describ$ by ,yates z hav+ ! appe>ance ( a flat ribbon1 ) ! edges ?ick5$ l a hem4 #acb ,?is r\gh b>k is probably ! reason t x absorbs col\r into its sub/ance 7p]haps "u ! scales72 & x may also acc\nt = its be+ capable ( felt+4 #acc ,x may be laid d[n z a fundam5tal rule 9 te*nical /yle1 t ! product %all pres]ve ! peculi> *>act]i/ics ( ! raw mat]ial4 ,un=tunately1 ! arti/ is (t5 ignorant ( ! qualities ( ! fabric = :i* he is design+1 & ! workman :o has to c>ry x out is a me*anic1 9 ^! days1 in/ead ( a craftsman4 #acd ,molo*9us1 or malva silve/ris 7wild hemp71 ,yates1 pp4 #bib-cag1 is sometimes spok5 ( z a mall[1 sometimes z a nettle4 ,9 ! ,vocabul>y ( ,papias 7,a4,d4 #ajej7 x is said t ! clo? call$ moloc9a is made f ?read ( mall[1 & us$ = dress 9 ,egypt4 ,g>m5ts ( molo*9us 7 br\ght f ,india1 accord+ to ! ,p]iplus 7see ,pl9y1 #adf1 #aff1 #agj1 #aga74 ,x 0 seldom us$ by ! anci5ts1 b bo? ,greeks & ,romans made x s]ve = mats & ropes4 ,! ,?racians wove ( x g>m5ts & %eets4 ,x is n nam$ 9 ! ,scriptures4 #ace ,see ,gibbs' ,briti% ,honduras4 #acf ,sp>tum 0 a ru%4 ,pl9y says x 0 us$ = ! rigg+ ( %ips4 #acg ,! b>k ( trees su* z ! ,hybiscus ,tiliaceus1 & t ( ! ,bir* 7see ,yates1 p4 #cje-f74 ,bir* b>k 0 embroid]$1 till latt]ly1 by ! ,indian wom5 9 ,nor? ,am]ica ) porcup9es' quills4 ,pigafetta says 7writ+ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury7 t 9 ! k+dom ( ,congo _m diff]5t k9ds ( /uff 7 manufactur$ f ! palm-tree fibre4 ,he in/ances clo?s on :i* patt]ns 7 wr\ght1 & likewise a mat]ial resembl+ velvet on bo? sides4 #ach ,camoca or caman 9 ! ,middle ,ages is suppos$ to h be5 ( camels' hair1 mix$ ) silk4 ,edw>d ! ,black ,pr9ce left to 8 confessor 8 b$ ( r$ caman1 ) 8 arms embroid]$ on ea* corn]4 ,rock 7p4 xliv7 gives u in=mation ab\t ! t5ts & g>m5ts ( camels' hair f\nd ?r\gh\t ! ,ea/1 :]ev] ! camel fl\ri%es & has a f9e hairy w9t] coat1 :i* x %$s 9 ! heat4 ,! co>s] p>ts are us$ = common purposes1 & ! f9e/ s]ve = beautiful fabrics1 especially %awls4 ,m>co ,polo tells ( beautiful camelots manufactur$ f ! hair ( camels2 & ( ! ,egyptian co>se & v f9e fabrics wov5 ( ! same mat]ials4 #aci ,le ,*evali] ,deux ,epes 7quot$ by ,dr4 ,rock71 & ,lady ,wilton1 ,art ( ,ne$lework1 p4 #abh4 #adj ,see p4 #cei1 po/1 = ,boadicea's dress4 #ada ,see ,mr4 ,villi]s ,/u>t's ,fun]al ,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que54 #adb ,! ,moors 9 ,spa9 excell$ 9 lea!r-"w & embroid]y ^u x2 & ,m>co ,polo describes ! beautiful productions ( ! prov9ce ( ,guz]at1 ( lea!r inlaid & embroid]$ ) gold & silv] wire4 ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 p4 #chc4 #adc ,see *apt] on ,/it*es4 #add ,see ,*>d91 vol4 i4 p4 #ca4 #ade ,t91 call$ laton1 0 us$ to debase ! metal ?reads 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,x is also nam$ z a legitimate mat]ial = metal embroid]ies4 #adf ,= all in=mation ab\t asbe/os1 see ,yates1 pp4 #cef1 #efe4 #adg ,!re is "o at ! ,b>b]9i ,palace at ,rome4 ,a %eet1 wov5 ( asbe/os1 f\nd 9 a tomb outside ! ,porta ,maggiore1 is describ$ by ,sir ,j4 ,e4 ,smi? 9 8 ,t\r on ! ,cont95t 7vol4 ii4 p4 #bja7 z be+ co>sely spun1 b z s(t & pliant z silk4 ,we set fire to x1 & ! same "p be+ repeat$ly burnt1 0 n at all injur$4 #adh ,see ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 vol4 i4 pp4 #bae1 #bah1 & ,yates1 p4 #cfa4 #adi ,!re are specim5s ( bead-"w pictures at ,/4 ,/eph5's at ,coire1 9 ! ,m>i5-,kir*e at ,dantzic1 & else:]e4 ,see ,rock1 p4 cv4 ,?is is1 9 fact1 mosaic 9 textiles1 )\t cem5t4 #aej ,witness ! /one :orls = ! sp9dles 9 our prehi/oric b>r[s1 & ! heaps ( ! lake cities4 #aea ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #abi4 #aeb ,an ,egyptian ,dyna/y call$ !mselves ! ,%eph]d ,k+s4 #aec ,yates gives endless quotations to %[ h[ anci5t & h[ hon\rable an occupation 0 t ( t5d+ %eep4 #aed ,semp]1 i4 p4 #aci4 ,! cov] ( ! b$ on :i* 0 laid ! gold5 c(f9 9 ! tomb ( ,cyrus 0 ( ,babylonian tape/ry ( wool2 ! c>pet b5ea? x 0 wov5 ( ! f9e/ wr\ght purple4 ,plautus m5tions ,babylonian hang+s & embroid]$ tape/ries4 ,see ,birdwood's ,indian ,arts1 i4 p4 #bhf4 #aee ,jo%ua vii4 #aef ,ezekiel xxvii4 #bb4 #aeg ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #ach4 #aeh ,yates1 pp4 #gi1 #ia1 #ic1 #ii1 #ajb1 #dde4 ,lan ,alb4 ,! fir/1 ,apulia's2 next is ,p>ma's boa/2 ,& ! ?ird fleece ,alt9um has engross$4 ,m>tial1 xiv4 ,ep4 #aee4 ,m>tial also speaks ( ! mat*less ,t>5t9e tog1 a pres5t f ,p>!nius3-- ,) !e ! lily & ! privet pale ,comp>$1 & ,tibur's :ite/ ivory fail2 ,! ,sp>tan swan1 ! ,paphian doves deplore ,_! hue1 & pe>ls on ! ,ery?rean %ore4 ,m>tial1 viii4 ,ep4 #bh4 #aei ,! %eep ( ,t>5tum1 f ! days ( ! ,greek coloni/s1 7 fam$1 z !y are /ill1 = ! w>m br[n t9ts on _! black wool4 ,pl9y says t ?is is caus$ by ! we$ fumio1 on :i* !y br[s$4 ,sw9burne says1 9 8 ,travels 9 ! ,two ,sicilies1 t !re ! wool is s t+$ by ! plant n[ call$ fumolo1 :i* gr[s on ! coa/4 #afj ,see ,blmn]'s ,te*nologie1 p4 #ib2 also ,comptes ,r5dus de la ,commission ,impriale ,ar*ologique ( ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 #ahha2 also ! ,catalogue ,raisonne ( ,h]r ,graf's*5's ,egyptian ,collection ( ,textiles at ,vi5na4 #afa ,see ,pl9y's ,natural ,hi/ory1 viii4 #gd1 #aia4 ,tanaquil is cr$it$ ) ! fir/ inv5tion ( ! seamless coat or cassock4 #afb ,! ,gauls 9 ,brita9 wove plaids or t>tans4 ,see ,rock1 p4 xii2 ,blmn]1 pp4 #aeb-ed2 ,birdwood1 p4 #bhf4 #afc ,pl9y1 ,natural ,hi/ory1 book viii41 #gc1 #gd4 #afd ,georgics1 iv4 #ccd2 ,yates1 p4 #ce4 #afe ,comptes ,r5dus de la ,commission ,impriale ,ar*ologique1 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 #ahha4 ,mu* ( ?is ,gobel9 weav+ has lately be5 f\nd 9 ,egypt4 ,see ,katalog d] ,teodor ,graf's*5 ,fnde 9 gypt51 von ,dr4 ,j4 ,k>abacek4 #aff ,semp] consid]s t ! fam\s ,babylonian & ,phrygian /uffs 7 all wooll51 & t gold 0 wov5 or embroid]$ on !m4 ,see ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #ach4 #afg ,worce/] clo? 0 =bidd5 to ! ,b5$ict9es by a ,*apt] ( t ,ord] at ,we/m9/] ,abbey 9 #adbb1 z be+ f9e en\gh = soldi]s1 & !re=e too good = monks4 ,see ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 lxxviii4 #afh ,bo? ^! fabrics are repres5t$ 9 ,egyptian & ,greek fragm5ts1 & are equally well pres]v$4 #afi ,boyd ,dawk9s1 ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 pp4 #bfh1 #bge4 #agj ,see ,wilk9son1 ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 iii4 p4 #aaf2 ,yates1 p4 #bc4 #aga ,x appe>s t ! art ( pr9t+ textiles 0 kn[n 9 ,egypt 9 ! "t ( ,pl9y4 ,see ,yates1 p4 #bgb1 quot+ ,apuleius1 ,met4 l4 xi42 also see ,wilk9son1 ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 ii4 p4 #aif1 pl4 xii4 #agb ,see ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 pp4 #bfh1 #cce2 ,h]odotus1 ii4 #hf4 ,h]odotus & ,/rabo speak ( ,babylonian l951 cit$ by ,yates1 p4 #bha4 #agc ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 pp4 #bfg-hj4 ,a peculi>ity ( ,egyptian l95 is t x 0 (t5 wov5 ) m ?reads 9 ! w>p ?an 9 ! wo(4 ,a specim5 9 ! ,indian ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 %[s 9 its delicate texture #adj ?reads 9 ! in* to ! w>p1 & #fd to ! wo(4 ,ano!r piece ( f9e l95 has #bgj to ! w>p1 & #aaj to ! wo(4 ,g5]ally !re are twice or ?ree times z _m ?reads1 b sometimes ev5 f\r times ! numb]4 ,wilk9son gives a probable reason = ?is peculi>ity4 ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 i4 *ap4 ix4 pp4 #aba-bbf4 ,see ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 xiv4 #agd ,de ,somniis1 vol4 i4 p4 #fec4 ,yates1 p4 #bga4 #age ,philo1 cit$ by ,yates1 p4 #bga4 #agf ,paul9us ad ,cy!rium1 cit$ by ,yates1 p4 #bgc4 #agg ,h]odotus1 l4 ii4 c4 #ahb1 l4 iii4 c4 #dg4 ,rawl9son's ,trans4 #agh ,prov]bs vii4 #af4 #agi ,yates1 p4 #bia4 ,d5on describes a tunic f\nd 9 a s>cophagus1 :i* he exam9$1 & says3 ,! weav+ 0 extremely loose1 ( ?read z f9e z a hair1 ( two /r&s ( twi/$ flax fibre4--,aub]ville's ,ornem5t des ,tissus1 p4 #d4 ,"s m>vell\sly f9e specim5s ( su* cambric may be se5 at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum & ! ,briti% ,museum4 #ahj ,n t we h any rema9s ( flax l95 f _! tombs4 #aha ,x 0 c>ri$ !nce1 at a prehi/oric date1 to ,assyria & ,egypt4 #ahb ,!re is no pro( t x 0 gr[n 9 ,egypt till ! f\rte5? c5tury ,a4,d41 :5 x is m5tion$ = ! fir/ "t 9 a ,,ms4 ( t date ( ! ,codex ,antw]pianus4 ,see ,yates1 ,app5dix ,e1 p4 #dgj4 #ahc ,birdwood1 p4 #bda4 #ahd ,pugg>ee4 ,yates says t cotton has always be5 suppos$ to be ! be/ pres]v] aga9/ sun/roke1 p4 #cda4 #ahe ,c>pas1 ! prop] ,ori5tal "n = cotton1 is f\nd 9 ! same s5se 9 ! ,sanskrit1 ,arabic1 & ,p]sian languages4 ,yates1 p4 #cda4 #ahf ,9 ! neid1 ! g>m5t ( ,*loreus ! ,phrygian is ?us describ$3-- ,8 saffron *lamys1 & ea* ru/l+ fold ,( musl9 7c>pas71 0 conf9$ ) glitt]+ gold4 neid1 xi4 #gge4 #ahg ,dakka musl9s are ! mo/ e/eem$4 ,_! poetic names1 runn+ wat]1 wov5 air1 ev5+ dew1 are m descriptive ?an pages ( prose4 ,see ,birdwood1 ii4 p4 #bei4 #ahh ,*9tzes1 calicoes1 f9e clo?s1 & /rong t5t-clo?s1 cotton c>pets1 c41 c4 ,=bes ,watson classifies ! calicoes z be+ :ite1 blea*$ & unblea*$1 /rip$1 c41 pr9t$ *9tzes1 or p9tadoes4 ,see ,birdwood1 p4 #bfj4 #ahi ,= ,buckram & ,fu/ian1 see ,rock1 pp4 lxxxv1 lxxxvi4 ,9 ,lady ,burgew5y's 7,ab]gav5ny7 w1 #adcd1 %e leaves z "p ( ! furni%+s ( h] b$ ( gold ( swan1 two pairs ( %eets ( ,ra9e 7,r5nes71 & a pair ( fu/ian4 ,anne ,boleyn's li/ ( clo!s conta9s ,bok]ams1 = l9+ & taynt+1 g[ns1 sleeves1 cloaks1 & b$s4 ,rock1 lxxxvi4 ,r5\>d1 9 8 ,romaunce ,diction>y1 quotes ! foll[+3 ,ve/ de ,polpia e de ,bisso qui e/ bac>am4 ,= ! antiquity ( ?is fabric1 see ,h]r ,graf's*5's ,catalogue ( ,textiles f ! ,fay\m4 #aij ,see ,yates1 p4 #cjj1 cit+ ,h]od's silv] app>el4 #aia ,indian ,arts1 ii4 p4 #bcg4 #aib ,rock1 p4 xxv4 ,yates 7p4 #c7 says !y cut _! gold = we>+ app>el into ?9 plates1 & did n draw x into wire1 z x is translat$ 9 ! ,vulgate 7,exodus xxxix474 ,! ephod made by ,bezaleel 0 ( f9e l951 gold1 violet1 purple1 & sc>let1 twice dy$1 ) embroid]$ "w4 ,?is tradition mu/ h guid$ ! arti/ :o design$ ! ephod 9 ! ,national ,museum at ,muni*1 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 = a pr9ce boy-bi%op4 #aic ,qu9tus ,curtius says t _m ?\s&s1 clo!d 9 ^! co/ly mat]ials1 cr[d$ out ( ,damascus to meet ,alex&]4 #aid ,!re is a v anci5t local tradition at ,%%1 t ,a4,d4 #fdj1 9 ! reign ( ! ,kaliph ,om>1 ! body ( ! prophet ,daniel 0 f\nd1 wrapp$ 9 clo? ( gold1 9 a /one c(f92 &1 by ord] ( ! victori\s g5]al1 x 0 plac$ 9 "o ( glass1 & moor$ to ! bridge :i* spann$ ! bran* ( ! ,euphrates fl[+ betwe5 ! two halves ( ! city1 s t ! wat]s fl[$ ov] x4 ,see ,*aldea & ,susiana1 by ,l(tus1 & ,sir ,g4 ,w4 ,gore ,ouseley's translation ( a ,p]sian v]sion ( ,! ,book ( ,victories4 ,alex&] is said to h be5 buri$ 9 a glass c(f94 7,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 ii4 p4 #ajb1 note 47 #aie ,yates1 pp4 #cfg-gj2 ,rock1 p4 xxvi4 #aif ,aura intex]e eadem ,asi inv5it ,attalus ,rex unde nom5 ,attalicis4--,pl9y1 viii4 c4 #dh1 & ,yates1 p4 #cga4 ,! reign ( ,attalus ,,ii4 0 ,b4,c4 #aei-ahh4 #aig ,& !y did beat ! gold into plates1 & cut x into wires1 & "w x into ! blue1 & ! purple1 & ! f9e l954--,exod4 xxxix4 #aih ,see ,yates1 p4 #cga2 & ,bock1 xxxiii4 #aii ,pl9y1 xxxiii4 ,9 ! ,museum at ,leyd5 !re is a %r$ ( gold clo? f\nd 9 a tomb at ,t>qu9ia1 9 ,etruria4 ,?is is a compactly wov5 cov]+ ov] bright yell[ silk4 #bjj ,gold wire is /ill work$ ?r\gh lea!r at ,guz]at4 ,see ,birdwood1 p4 #bhd1 ,ed4 #ahhj4 ,m>co ,polo m5tions ?is embroid]y #fjj ye>s ago4 ,bk4 iii4 *ap4 xxvi4 7,yule74 ,! hunt+ cuirass ( ,assurbanipal 7pl4 #a7 appe>s to be s work$1 & ( su* mat]ials4 ,also see ,wilk9son1 ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 iii4 p4 #acj4 ,?is gold = weav+ 0 beat5 into %ape ) hamm]s4 #bja ,pope ,euti*9us1 9 ! ?ird c5tury1 buri$ _m m>tyrs 9 gold5 robes4 #bjb ,lib] ,pontificalis1 t4 ii4 p4 #ccb4 #bjc ,see ,rock1 pp4 xxvii1 xxxv2 & ,p>k]'s ,use ( ! ,levitical ,col\rs1 p4 #di4 #bjd ,see ,yates1 p4 #cgf4 #bje ,rock1 p4 xxxv4 ,! toga picta1 or trabea1 "p ( ! (ficial dress ( h] sons4 #bjf ,hov$5's ,annal4 p4 #dha1 ,ed4 ,savile2 ,rock1 p4 xxx4 #bjg ,see ,ar*ologia1 #ahhj1 pp4 #cag1 #cbb2 also ,pl4 #gd1 ,no4 #bj 7po/74 #bjh ,bock1 ,l4 ,gewnd]1 taf4 ix4 vol4 i4 #bji ,rock1 p4 xxxvii4 #baj ,ciclat\n1 accord+ to ,rock1 p4 xxxix1 is a common ,p]sian "n = su* tissues 9 ! ,ea/4 ,?is1 9 common ) nasick1 nak1 & _m o!r beautiful tissues1 0 wr\ght 9 gold ) figures ( birds & bea/s4--,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 ed4 #ahge1 i4 p4 #fe4 ,dr4 ,rock quotes ! old ballad1-- ,9 a robe "r royall b[ne1 ,( a r$ ciclat\ne1 ,be h] fad]'s syde2 ,a coronall on h] h$e sett1 ,h] clo!s ) byrdes ( gold 7 bette ,all ab\t = pryde4 #baa ,9 ,/4 ,paul's 9 ,london !re 0 =m]ly an amice adorn$ ) ! figures ( two bi%ops & a k+1 hamm]$ out ( silv]1 & gilt4 ,dugdale1 ed4 #ahah1 p4 #cah4 ,see also ,rock1 pp4 xxix-xxxii4 #bab ,museum at ,b]ne4 #bac ,a piece ( ,v5etian "w to be se5 at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum is an alt> frontal1 work$ 9 coral1 gold beads1 se$ pe>ls1 & spangles4 ,all jewell]s' "w1 includ+ enamel1 0 mu* admir$ & introduc$ into _! embroid]ies4 7,see ,rock's ,introduction to ,catalogue ( ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 pp4 civ-cviii1 ed4 #ahgj47 #bad ,on ?is gorge\s piece ( ,italian art !re are add$ a numb] ( buttons 7= we c give !m no o!r "n71 ) crosses & he>ts "u cry/al1 :i* seem to h belong$ to ano!r p]iod & workman%ip1 or else are to be attribut$ to a sup]/iti\s feel+ on ! "p ( ! mak]1 :o plac$ ^! ,*ri/ian signs1 p]haps1 surreptiti\sly1 & = ! good ( 8 own s\l4 #bae ,! ,museum ( ,national ,art at ,muni* has a f9e collection ( gold & silv]1 spangl$1 & black bead head-dresses1 n[ mo/ly antiquat$1 ?\gh 9 peasant dress x yet survives4 #baf ,x is embroid]$ 9 gold1 ) r$ silk & gems2 & ,i h else:]e said t x probably issu$ f ! ,hotel de ,tiraz at ,mess9a4 #bag ,t]ry1 9 8 ,voyage to ! ,ea/ ,indies1 speaks ( ! ri* c>pets 7p4 #abh73 ,! gr\nd ( "s ( ^! is silv] or gold1 ab\t :i* su* arabesques 9 fl[]s & figures z ,i h be=e nam$ are mo/ excell5tly dispos$4 #bah ,^! ( late ye>s h be5 ! mo/ gorge\s objects at exhibitions ( old ne$lework1 & ! ambition & despair ( collectors4 #bai ,gold ?read 0 also made ( gilt pap]1 equally by ! ,moors & ! ,japanese4 #bbj ,9 ,aik9's ,life ( ,james ,i41 p4 #bje1 we h a curi\s acc\nt ( ! monopoly ( gold ?read1 t _h be5 grant$1 ) o!rs1 to ,george ,villi]s1 ,duke ( ,buck+ham4 ,! ?read 0 s sc&al\sly debas$ ) copp] z to corrode ! h&s ( ! artific]s1 & ev5 ! fle% ( ^? :o wore x4 ,?is adult]at$ article !y sold at an exorbitant price1 & if !y detect$ any "o mak+ a *eap] or bett] article1 !y 7 emp[]$ to f9e or imprison !m1 :ile a clause 9 _! pat5t protect$ !mselves4 ,! manufactur]s ( ?is base metal ?read 7 two ,fr5*m51 ,mompesson & ,mi*el1 & ,edw>d ,villi]s1 ! ,m>quis' bro!r1 0 "o ( ! firm4 ,d\btless !y drove = a "t a ro>+ trade1 z gold embroid]ies 7 !n univ]sally worn1 bo? by m5 & wom52 b ! ,h\se ( ,commons int]f]$1 & ! monopoly 0 aboli%$4 #bba ,mitre ( :ite sat91 ) two figure subjects 9 flat gold--! m>tyrdom ( ,/4 ,/eph51 & t ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury4 #bbb ,! ,s*ool ( ,gold ,embroid]y at ,muni* produces "w ( a ri*ness & precision :i* has1 p]haps1 nev] be5 excell$4 ,! rais$ p>ts ( ! design are fir/ ca/ 9 s(t holl[ c>ton1 & ! gold is work$ on x & into ! recesses ) ! help ( a f9e /iletto1 :i* pione]s ! ne$le = ea* /it*4 ,?is is embroid]y on ! /amp1 b )\t padd+4 #bbc ,bock1 ,l4 ,gewnd]1 vol4 i4 p4 #dh4 ,prizes are (f]$ at ,lyons = ! be/ mode ( manufactur+ gold & silv] ?read t w n t>ni%4 #bbd ,yates says1 pp4 #afj-afb3 ,:e!r silk 0 m5tion$ 9 ! ,old ,te/am5t _c1 p]haps1 be det]m9$4 ,aft] fully consid]+ ! subject1 ,braunius decides aga9/ silk be+ kn[n to ! ,hebrews 9 anci5t times 7',de ,ve/itu ,heb4 ,sac]dotum1' i4 c4 viii474 ,! contr>y op9ion is f\nd$ on ! passage1 ,i clo!d !e ) broid]$ "w1 & %od !e ) badg]-sk9s4 ,i gird$ !e ab\t ) f9e l951 & cov]$ !e ) silk 7me%i74--,ezekiel xvi4 ,b ! translation is disput$4 #bbe ,code ( ,manu1 xi4 #afh2 xii4 #fd4 ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #bjd4 #bbf ,aub]ville1 ,ornem5t des ,tissus1 p4 ii4 #bbg ,yates 7pp4 #agc1 #agd7 believes t ,cos %\ld always be read = ,cios1 ab\t :i* !re seems to be "s confusion4 ,*ios has also be5 sub/itut$ = ! "n ( ,cos1 ! isl&4 ,!re is no d\bt t ! ,roman ladies obta9$ _! mo/ spl5did g>m5ts f ,cos--p]haps ( wool z well z ( silk4 #bbh ,birdwood1 ,textile ,arts ( ,india1 ii4 p4 #bfi4 #bbi ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #bjd4 #bcj ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 note 79971 p4 #ahd4 ,ari/otle 7f\r? c5tury ,b4,c471 h[ev]1 _h already giv5 evid5ce respect+ ! use ( silk1 :i* 0 adopt$ & repeat$ by ,pl9y1 ,clem5s ,alex&r9us1 & ,basil4 ,ari/otle tells ! /ory ( ,pamphile4 ,"o ?\s& ye>s lat] ,procopius 7six? c5tury ,a4,d47 says ! raw mat]ial 0 !n br\ght f ! ,ea/1 & wov5 9 ! ,phnician cities ( ,tyre & ,b]ytus4 ,see ,yates1 pp4 #afc1 #afd4 #bca ,ibid41 note 79971 p4 #ahd4 #bcb ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #aha4 #bcc ,i h m5tion$ ?is already1 to prove ! antiquity ( ! art ( embroid]y4 ,"h ,i repeat x 9 ref]5ce to ! fir/ m5tion ( silk4 7,see p4 #ch ante47 #bcd ,biblio?que ,ori5tale de ,m4 ,h]belot1 ed4 #aggh1 vol4 iii4 p4 #ai4 #bce ,aub]ville1 p4 #b2 ,yates 7pp4 #agb1 #agc7 calls h] ,si-l+1 wife ( ,hoang-ti1 & quotes ! ,resum des ,pr9cipaux ,tractes ,*9ois1 traduits p> ,/anislas ,juli51 #ahcg1 pp4 #fg1 #fh4 #bcf ,aub]ville1 ,hi/oire des ,tissus1 pp4 #b-d2 ,du ,halde1 vol4 ii4 pp4 #cee1 #cef 7#hvo edition1 ,london1 #agcf74 #bcg ,relat$ by ,klapro?1 ! ,russian ,ori5tali/4 #bch ,yates1 p4 #bch4 ,hi/ory ( ,khotan1 translat$ by ,m4 ,abel ,rmusat1 pp4 #ee1 #ef4 #bci ,khotan or ,little ,bu*>ia w\ld1 9 common p>lance1 be includ$ 9 ,s]ica2 & !re=e silk export$ !nce to ,europe w\ld h be5 p]fectly describ$ z com+ f ! ,s]es4 ,yates1 p4 #bca1 #bcb4 #bdj ,yates1 p4 #bca4 #bda ,:ile 9 ,europe ! arts ( daily use & decoration 7 /ruggl+ = life aft] _m int]ruptions & revolutions1 ! civilization ( ,japan1 :i* is ne>ly contempor>y ) ,*ri/ianity1 sp5t itself 9 p]fect+ to ! mo/ exquisite f9i% ! arts :i* _h be5 import$ f ,*9a & ,corea4 ,japan also inh]it$ ! p[] & ! tradition ( concealm5t1 & s ,europe rema9$ unconsci\s1 until ! la/ c5tury1 ( ! miracul\s arts :i* a semi-b>b>\s p 7 cultivat+--n = comm]cial purposes4 ,aub]ville1 ,tissus1 pp4 #b-d4 #bdb ,yates1 pp4 #age-ahd4 #bdc ,yates1 p4 #agf4 ,! silk5 flags atta*$ to ! gilt /&>ds ( ! ,p>?ians inflam$ ! cupidity ( ! army ( ,crassus4 ,! conflict betwe5 !m took place #ed ,b4,c4 ,ab\t ?irty ye>s aft] ?is date1 ,roman luxury _h rea*$ its z5i?-- ,! insatiate ,roman spreads 8 conqu]+ arm ,o'er l& & sea1 :]e'er heav5's light ext5ds4 ,petronius ,arbit]1 c4 cxix4 ,aft] ^! words he says t among ! ri*e/ productions ( di/ant climes1 ! ,s]es s5t _! new fleeces4 #bdd ,yates1 p4 #ahc4 #bde ,holos]icum1 :ole silk2 subs]icum1 p>tly cotton1 hemp1 or flax4 ,! longitud9al ?reads or w>p1 cotton2 ! cross ?reads1 silk4 ,rock1 ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 xxxvii 7ed4 #ahgj74 #bdf ,yates1 p4 #aie4 #bdg ,yates1 p4 #aih4 ,= ! value ( ! d5>ius1 see ,wadd+ton1 ,edit4 de ,diocleti51 p4 #c4 #bdh ,grut]1 tom4 iii4 p4 #fde2 ,yates1 p4 #bje4 #bdi ,yates1 p4 #bdf4 ,! words silk & sat9 are spok5 ( by ,yates z hav+ two d]ivations--! "o import$ to u ?r\gh ,greece & ,italy1 ! o!r f ,ea/]n ,asia1 ?r\gh ,slavonia1 by ! nor? ( ,europe4 #bej ,yates1 p4 #bca2 :o rem>ks1 p4 #bjc1 t ! laws ( ,ju/9ian are n direct$ aga9/ ! use ( silk z a luxury1 b r z appropriat+ x z an imp]ial monopoly & s\rce ( rev5ue4 #bea ,tom4 ii4 p4 #ajf 7ed4 #afcj74 ,see ,yates1 p4 #bac4 #beb ,yates1 p4 #bad4 #bec ,aub]ville1 ,plate #d4 ,among/ ^! are :at he calls ,consul> silks4 ,^! are1 or may be1 includ$ 9 ! palmat$ class1 z !y are evid5tly wov5 = triumphal occasions4 ,"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable has e m>k ( ,ori5tal design4 ,x repres5ts a picture 9 a circle1 repeat$ ov] & ov] aga91 ( a w>rior 9 8 quadriga4 ,black or col\r$ slaves drive ! horses1 ei!r runn+ beside !m or /&+ ^u !m2 & o!r slaves c>ry bea/s on _! %\ld]s1 & are /oop+ to give !m dr9k at a tr\gh4 ,! space betwe5 ! circles is fill$ 9 ) ! tree ( life1 gr[+ out ( its two horns4 ,! col\rs are purple & gold4 ,he places ?is betwe5 ! fir/ & sev5? c5turies 7see pl4 #cd74 #bed ,!re are1 h[ev]1 a few t h n _h ! security ( ! tomb1 & yet h surviv$1 su* z ! *asuble & maniple at ,bayeux1 ( ! sev5? c5tury1 & ,*>lemagne's dalmatic4 #bee ,rog] de ,w5dov]1 ,*ronica1 t4 iv4 p4 #abg1 ed4 ,coxe4 ,quot$ by ,rock f ,ralph1 ,dean ( ,/4 ,paul's4 ,see ,rock1 ,introduction1 p4 lv4 #bef ,rog] de ,w5dov]1 ,*ronica1 t4 iv41 ed4 ,coxe2 also ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 pp4 #bdc1 #bdd4 #beg ,9 ! twelf? c5tury4 ,semp]1 i4 p4 #ch4 #beh ,see illu/ration f ! portrait ( ,sultan ,mahomet ,,ii41 by ,g5til ,bell9i4 ,ante1 p4 #adf1 ,plate #cc4 #bei ,see ,semp]1 p4 #aeg4 #bfj ,! ,sicilian type ( design 9 silk-weav+ 0 c>ri$ into ,g]many ab\t ! end ( ! second p]iod4 ,we are in=m$ by ,aub]ville t !re exi/$ at t "t a manufacture ( ecclesia/ical /uffs at ,leipzig1 f :i* he gives u f9e examples4 #bfa ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 vol4 ii4 ,taf4 xxxiii4 ,! patt]n is twelf? c5tury metal "w1 embroid]$ 9 gold4 #bfb ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 iii41 pl4 xvi42 v41 pl4 xxxiv4 ,9 g5]al1 a sc>f floats f ! pr[ or f ! o>s4 #bfc ,! ,crusad]s c>ri$ away spl5did booty f ! t[ns !y took & ransack$4 ,z x 0 ! great ga!r+-place ( all ,ea/]n & ,we/]n nations1 ,j]usalem 0 a m>t = ri* m]*&ise f ,p]sia1 ,arabia1 ,syria1 & ,phnicia1 till ! times ( ! ,lat9 k+s4 ,antio*1 z well z ,j]usalem1 yield$ ! ri*e/ plund]4 ,mat!w ,p>is 7a contempor>y hi/orian71 speak+ ( :at 0 tak5 at ,antio*1 #ajih1 says1 ,at ! division ( co/ly vessels1 crosses1 weav+s1 & silk5 /uffs1 e begg> 9 ! crusad+ army 0 enri*$4 ,alex&ria1 z e>ly z ! middle ( ! six? c5tury1 ,a4,d41 _h be5 ! dept = ! silk5 /uffs ( ,libya & ,morocco4 ,"h is a wide area op5$ to u = sugge/ions z to ! orig9 & traditions ( patt]ns 9 silk textile art4 ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 vol4 i4 pp4 #bi1 #cj4 #bfd ,rock1 ,introduction1 p4 ccxlviii1 & p4 #bfh1 ,no4 #hgaj4 #bfe ,! weav+ ( inscriptions 9 textiles is n a ,s>ac5ic inv5tion4 ,pl9y says x 0 a cu/om among ! ,p>?ians4 ,see ,rock's ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 lxi4 ,9 allusion to lett]$ g>m5ts1 ,ausonius ?us celebrates ,sab9a1 ( :om we o!rwise "k no?+3-- ',!y :o bo? webs & v]ses weave1 ,! fir/ to !e1 oh *a/e ,m9]va1 leave2 ,! latt] to ! ,muses !y devote4 ,to me1 ,sab9a1 x appe>s a s9 ,to sep>ate two ?+s s ne> ak92 ,s ,i h writ ^! v]ses on my coat4' ,see ,lady ,wilton on ,ne$lework1 p4 #ec4 #bff ,birdwood1 ,indian ,arts1 p4 #bgd4 #bfg ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #bdd2 ,tegr9i1 ,vita ,ca/ruccii1 9 ,muratore1 ,ital4 ,script41 t4 xi4 p4 #acbj4 #bfh ,riano1 ,cat4 ( ,loan ,exhibition ( ,spani% ,art 9 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 #ahhb1 p4 #df4 #bfi ,9 ,hov$5's acc\nt ( ! fleet ( ,ri*>d ,i4 coa/+ ! %ores ( ,spa91 he speaks ( ! delicate & valuable textures ( ! silks ( ,alm]ia4 ,rog4 ,hov$51 ,ann41 ed4 ,savile1 p4 #chb4 ,rock1 p4 xx4 #bgj ,bock1 pp4 #ci1 #dj1 quotes f ,ana/asius & ! ,abbot ( ,font5elle1 prov+ t silk5 rugs 7 manufactur$ 9 ,spa9 by ! ,moors4 #bga ,aub]ville1 ,hi/oire des ,tissus1 p4 #ad4 #bgb ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 p4 #bbd4 ,baudak9 f ,baghdad1 damask f ,damascus4 ,baudak9 0 wov5 ) bea/s1 birds1 & fl[]s 9 gold4 #bgc ,rcit de ,rob]t ,cl>i4 ,he 0 "o ( ! companions ( ,ville d',h>d\91 & a witness to ! coronation ( ,baldw9 ,,ii4 ,see ,aub]ville's ,hi/oire des ,tissus1 p4 #ba4 #bgd ,sat9 is call$ by ,m>co ,polo zettani1 & he says x came f ,syria4 ,! ,fr5* call$ x zatony2 ! ,spani>ds nam$ x aceytuni1 :i* is probably d]iv$ f zaituniah1 ! product ( ,zaiton4 ,yates 7p4 #bdf7 gives ! d]ivations ( ! words sat9 & silk2 ! "o import$ to u ?r\gh ,greece & ,italy1 ! o!r f ,ea/]n ,asia1 ?r\gh ,slavonia & ,nor!rn ,europe4 #bge ,ibid4 ,9 ! ,wigalois1 a /ory is told ( a cav]n 9 ,asia full ( ev]la/+ flames1 :]e co/ly fellat 0 made by ! ,salam&]s1 :i* 0 firepro( & inde/ructible4 #bgf ,man ( ,lawe's ,tale3 ,cant]bury ,pilgrims4 #bgg ,ohitos t]ciopelos 7?ree-pil$-velvet eyes7 is a pretty ,spani% phrase1 describ+ ! s(t1 d>k1 %ad[y eyes ( ! ,spani% girls4 #bgh ,! ,italian ^w velluto means %aggy4 #bgi ,bock1 i4 pp4 #ii-aja4 #bhj ,buckram 0 sometimes a silk5 plu%1 b g5]ally 0 wov5 ) cotton4 ,?is 0 also ,asiatic1 & nam$ by travell]s ( ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies4 ,i h already m5tion$ x z a textile 9 ! *apt] on cotton4 ,:5 wov5 ( silk x belongs to ! class ( velvets4 #bha ,else:]e ,i h spok5 ( ! embroid]ies ( ! e>ly ,*ri/ian times f\nd 9 ! ,fay\m1 9 ,egypt4 ,^! af=d notable examples ( ! anci5t me?od 9 putt+ 9 pat*es on a worn or fray$ g>m5t4 ,!y inv>iably embroid]$ !m1 & s add$ a grace to ! old & hon\r$ ve/m5t1 & ju/ifi$ ! classical appellation1 ,heal] ( clo!s = a d>n]4 ,! comp>atively mod]n additions ( ! re/or]1 are 9 anci5t z 9 lat] specim5s1 (t5 a puzzle to ! ar*ologi/4 #bhb ,! specim5s 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 :]e ,dr4 ,rock gives _! approximate dates1 are mo/ useful to ! /ud5t ( ?is subject4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,col\r4 ,my s\l1 :at graci\s glori\s p[]s ,to hue & radiance ,god has giv56 ,cautley1 ,emblems1 p4 #ba4 ,x is my int5tion to conf9e myself to ! discussion ( col\r1 9 z f> z x belongs to ! dyes ( textiles & ! mat]ials = embroid]y4 ,i w adh]e z closely z ,i c to ?is "p ( :at is a great & mo/ int]e/+ subject--"o :i* ! sci5ce ( to-day has op5$ out1 & by ! te/ ( exp]im5t1 cle>$ ( errone\s !ories2 reveal+ to u all its beauty & fitness = ! use & delight ( man4 ,z ?r\gh all ages ! eye has be5 gradually educat$ to appreciate h>mony 9 col\r1 s dissonance--t is1 :at errs aga9/ h>mony--hurts u1 )\t app>5tly a suffici5t reason2 & we h to seek ! causes ( our s5sations 9 ! sci5tific works & lectures ( ,pr(essor ,tyndall & o!rs4 ,!re is no d\bt t ! appreciation ( col\r has belong$ 9 diff]5t degrees to ! eye ( e animal1 b especially to t ( man1 ev] s9ce light fir/ pa9t$ ! fl[]s ( ! field4 ,! eye is creat$ to see col\r1 z well z =m4 ,b we "k t m51 be+ accu/om$ to acquiesce 9 ! p[]s ) :i* !y f9d !mselves gift$ by nature1 enjoy & use !m1 long be=e !y beg9 to /udy1 classify1 & "n !m4 ,:5 we recollect t ! circulation ( ! blood 0 n kn[n )9 ! la/ ?ree hundr$ ye>s1 & t ,alb]t ,dr] pa9t$ ! skeleton ,dea? on ! bridge ( ,luc]ne1 ) "o bone 9 ! upp] & "o 9 ! l[] arm1 we %all be surpris$ to f9d t ! anci5ts _h nam$ ! col\rs !y saw1 ) "s degree ( descriptive & sci5tific precision4 ,! ^w purple1 = in/ance1 cov]$ a multitude ( t9ts1 :i* _h n z yet be5 diff]5tiat$1 ei!r 9 common p>lance or 9 poetry1#bhc ?\gh z articles ( comm]ce ! purple t9ts _h be5 e>ly di/+ui%$4 ,:at names h we n[1 9 ?is pres5t advanc$ day1 = def9+ ta/es or smells8 ,we say t some?+ smells l a violet1 or a rose1 or a sea breeze1 or a fro/$ cabbage4 ,we say a smell is nice or na/y1 t a ta/e is delici\s or nause\s2 b beyond call+ x sweet or s\r1 we h no descriptive words = ei!r smells or ta/es1 :]eas ! nations :o trad$ 9 ! mat]ials = dyes ex*ang$ _! nom5clatures1 :i* we c recognize f ! descriptive rem>ks ( diff]5t au?ors4 ,col\r1 z an art1 0 born 9 ^? l&s :i* clu/] r\nd ! ea/]n %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean--! nor!rn coa/s ( ,syria & ,arabia1 & ! isles ( ,greece4 ,all art grew 9 t area1 & all its adjuncts & mat]ials !re came to p]fection1 ?\gh (t5 import$ f m s\!rn & ea/]n s\rces4#bhd ,e4 ,curtius says t ! sci5ce ( col\r came into ,europe ) ! ,phnicians & accompani$ ! wor%ip ( ,a/>te4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 applies to arti/ic textiles1 z ! ,greeks _h already acquir$ ! art ( dye+ = pla9 weav+4 ,numa1 9 8 regulations = necess>y weav+1 ref]s also to col\r4 ,! ,italians !re=e mu/ at t "t h made "s advance 9 ! art1 especially ! ,etruscans4#bhe ,! inf9ity ( v>iation 9 col\r is difficult to imag9e4 ,! *emi/s ( ! ,gobel9s h fix$ & catalogu$ #ddhj tones4 ,besides1 we mu/ n =get t x is n[ all b asc]ta9$ t ! same col\r is probably appreciat$ diff]5tly by ne>ly e eye4#bhf ,h[ ! eye accepts col\rs & conveys !m to ! m9d is /ill a "q 9 dispute1 ?\gh ! !ories ( ,tyndall1 ,helmholz1 ,h]+1 ,*>p5ti]1 & o!rs1 aid$ by exp]im5ts1 are draw+ asc]ta9$ facts into a circle1 :i* w ere long be complete1 & ! my/]ies ( col\r may be asc]ta9$4 ,probably ! effects ( col\r on educat$ m9ds are z v>i\s z ! t9ts & %ades ( tones ( ! _m sub/ances :i* receive !m1--reflect$ f all surr\nd+ objects1 blaz+ 9 light1 or s(t5$ by %ad[1--fre% & gl[+1 or p]man5tly fad$--%9+ ) mod]n v>ni%1 or sob]$ by ! du/ ( ages4 ,x is ! art ( ! col\ri/1 :e!r he pa9ts pictures1 or dyes textiles1 or embroid]s !m1 to r$uce ! t9ts ( ! prism to an endurable & delightful l[ness ( tone1 :ile pres]v+ z f> z possible all _! light & purity4 ,prismatic col\rs are s radiantly glori\s1 t :5 we see ! ra9b[ 9 ! sky x is ea* "t a joyful surprise4 ,! mo/ /olid natures are mov$ by x2 we h ev5 se5 our dog />+ at x4 ,:51 9 exp]im5ts on light1 ! %afts ( col\r are ?r[n on ! wall1 !y are greet$ ) %\ts ( admiration2 b ^! glories are veil$ to u by ! fact t ! eye _c dissect ! prismatic ray )\t ! assi/ance ( ! in/rum5t t has reveal$ x4 ,?is is a m]ciful arrangem5t2 = we are n fitt$ to live 9 a prismatic display1 any m ?an 9 a cont9uity ( lightn+ fla%es4 ,we %\ld g mad or bl9d if expos$ to ei!r4 ,sci5ce has %[n u ! p]fect beauty ( col\r )\t =m1 ! soo?+ pleasures ( its h>monies1 & ! delightful surprises ( its contra/s4 ,f ! glimpses we h ( its nature & laws1 we may hope = fre% inspiration = ! art ( ! col\ri/4 ,?\gh x is true t ea* eye1 ev5 :5 educat$1 reta9s its own special appreciation ( ! col\rs t gratify its see+ n]ve1 yet !re are c]ta9 /&>ds :i* give almo/ univ]sal pleasure4#bhg ,! bl9d & ! col\r-bl9d mu/ rema9 exceptions = all "t2 & !re are _m gradations 9 col\r-bl9dness1 till we come to ! normal class ( see+ eyes2 & pass+ !m by1 rea* to ^? few m51 gift$ beyond all o!rs ) t fund ( s5sitive eye-n]ve & m5tal p[]1 :i* enables !m to create new ?\ghts 9 col\r4#bhh ,titian & 8 s*ool arose f ! inh]it$ sci5ce & tradition1 & c>efully prep>$ pigm5ts ( 8 imm$iate pr$ecessors1 act+ on an exceptional eye & m9d1 imbu$ ) ! spl5d\rs ( ! e>ly morn+s & ! sunsets 9 ! gl[+ atmosph]e ( ,v5ice4 ,col\r has long be5 suppos$ to convey c]ta9 impressions to ! m9d4 ,! abs5ce ( all col\r1 :i* we call black1 symbolizes 9 dress1 grief1 pride1 or dignity2 accord+ z x drapes ! m\rn]1 ! ,spani% gr&ee1 or ! prie/4#bhi ,yell[ be+ ! col\r ( ! sun & ( corn & gold1 repres5ts ri*es1 g5]osity1 & light4 ,r$ /&s betwe5 ! d>k & ! lively col\rs1 & repres5ts w>m? & animation1 dignity1 spl5d\r1 life1 love1 & joy4 ,! expression ( blue is t ( purity4 ,x recalls ! di/ant sky1 ! calm ocean1 & has an immortal & cele/ial "*4 ,x asc5ds to ! highe/ & desc5ds to ! l[e/ tones ( *i>o-oscuro4 ,no?+ s ne>ly approa*es pure :ite z ! pale/ blue2 no?+ is s ne>ly black z ! d>ke/4 ,gre5 has be5 assign$ by nature ! place ( ! univ]sal backgr\nd4 ,x is ! complem5t>y col\r ( r$1 s(t5+ & assimilat+ x by reflect$ %ad[s1 & sett+ (f ! glory ( e fl[] & fruit4 ,! expression ( gre5 is gaiety & mode/y1 light & t5d]ness1 %ad[ & repose1 to bo? ! eye & ! m9d4#bij ,x mu/ be all[$ t x is by ! e>lie/ associations ( ! individual1 or by ^? d]iv$ f ! family1 ! tribe or ! nation1 t col\rs are connect$ ) su* attributes weld$ by art & "t into traditional mean+s1 :i* !y absolutely possess1#bia & f :i* fa%ion _c disconnect !m2 su*1 = in/ance1 is ! royalty ( purple4 ,! ^w purple is s indiscrim9ately us$ z a poetic epi!t1 r ?an z a di/9ctive appellation1 t mu* confusion has be5 caus$ by x4 ,hi/orically1 among ! ,p]sians1 ,greeks1 & ,romans x appe>s to h be5 simply ! royal col\r1 v>y+ f ! pure/ blue1 ?r\gh e %ade ( violet1 d[n to ! deepe/ crimson4 ,sometimes1 poetically1 purple seems to h describ$ only a surface4 ,! breezy or /ormy sea 0 purple2 ! sky 0 purple2 ! hyac9?9e locks ( ,n>cissus1 ! rosy lips ( ,v5us 7 purple4 ,z a textile1 velvet 0 purple1 ev5 :5 x 0 :ite4#bib ,! epi!ts purple & w9e-col\r$ are (t5 be/[$ on ! ,m$it]ranean ,sea1 & are ju/ifi$ by its occasional hue3-- ,z f ! cl\ds1 deep-bosom'd1 swell'd ) %[]s1 ,a sudd5 /orm ! purple ocean sweeps1 ,drives ! wild waves1 & tosses all ! deeps4 ,pope's ,hom]1 ,iliad1 b4 xi4 v4 #chc4 ,pr(essor ,tyndall sugge/s t ! s(t gre5 ( ! sea1 %ad[$ by cl\ds1 assumes a subjective purple hue4 ,hom] mu/ h obs]v$ ?is be=e he became bl9d4 ,pl9y gives u mu* in=mation ab\t ?is col\r2 he enum]ates ! diff]5t sea-%ores & coa/s1 ,egyptian1 ,asiatic1 & ,european1 :5ce came ! %ell-fi% 7! murex & pelagia7 t produc$ ! s-call$ ,tyrian purple dyes4#bic ,he says t ,romulus wore ! purple1 & t ! dy$ g>m5ts1 all purple1 7 sacr$ to ! gods 9 ^? days4 ,aft] say+ t x 0 /ill a col\r ( di/9ction1 he cont9ues3 ,let u be prep>$ to excuse ! frantic passion = purple1 ?\gh we are impell$ to inquire :y su* a high value is plac$ on ! produce ( ?is fi%1 see+ t 9 ! dye ! smell ( x is (f5sive1 & ! col\r1 ( a gre5i% hue1 resembles ! sea :5 tempe/u\s4 ,he describes purples#bid z be+ diff]5tly col\r$ accord+ z to :e!r ^! con*ylia inhabit$ ! sea mud1 ! reefs1 or ! pebbly %ores1 ! la/ be+ ! mo/ valuable4#bie ,?is purple1 said to h be5 import$ f ! coa/s ( ,tyre1 0 till lately sold 9 ,rome = its weight 9 gold2 x gave ! burn+ rosy r$ dye ( ! ,c>d9al's robes1 & 0 call$ ,porpora enc>nad9a1 purple inc>nad9e4 ,x is full ( light & fre%ness1 & nev] fades2 9 fact1 x has all ! qualities ascrib$ to x by ,pl9y4 ,x int5sifies 9 ! light4#bif ,aft] purple1 sc>let 0 ! col\r mo/ e/eem$ by ! anci5ts4 ,! ,israelites mu/ h c>ri$ ) !m ! dyes :i* col\r$ ! hang+s1 wov5 or embroid]$1 belong+ to ! sanctu>y 9 ! wild]ness1 ( :i* ! out] cov]+ ( rams' sk9s 0 dy$ sc>let1 & 0 probably ( ! nature ( r$ morocco4#big ,!re 0 ! m9]al dye1 7c9nab> or r$ sulphate ( m]cury71 & ! insect dye2 ! fir/ 0 probably us$ 9 mural pa9t+4 ,x is translat$ 9 our ,bible z v]milion1 9 ! acc\nt giv5 by ,j]emiah ( a h\se1 ceil$ ) c$>1 & pa9t$ ) v]milion4#bih ,also ,ezekiel gives u ano!r in/ance ( h\se-pa9t+ 9 v]milion4#bii ,hom]1 :o z a rule does n describe col\r+1 says ! ,greek %ips 7 pa9t$ r$4 ,x is probable t c9nab> 0 temp]$1 by admixture ( :ite or o!r col\rs1 = ! mono*rome pa9t+ ( ! ,egyptians & ,greeks4 ,x 0 call$ by ! ,greeks miltos1 by ! ,romans m9ium4 ,! dye ( ! r$ portions ( ! fun]al t5t ( ,que5 ,isi-em-,kheb1 ,%i%ak's "m-9-law1 is f\nd by analysis to be compos$ ( hematite 7p]oxyde ( iron7 temp]$ ) lime4 ,?is is a beautiful p9k r$4#cjj ,! m9]al r$ n[ call$ v]milion mu/ h borr[$ its "n f ! insect dye :i* ! ,greeks & ,romans call$ k]mes4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages ! dye f ! k]mes 0 /ill call$ v]miculata1 ( :i* ! ^w v]milion is a lit]al translation4 ,we %\ld be =tunate if we c\ld f9d h[ ! ,greeks & ,romans prep>$ ! c9nab> = mural pa9t+1 ( :i* we f9d remnants 9 ru9s & tombs--a lovely & pure r$1 ) a t5d] bloom on x l a fragm5t ( ! ra9b[1 & n ! slighte/ %ade ( yell[4 ,"o ( ! mo/ beautiful specim5s ( ?is sc>let t ,i am acqua9t$ )1 is a small dr9k+-cup 7a rhyton7 at ! ,briti% ,museum1 9 ! =m ( a sph9x1 ) a :ite face1 gild$ hair1 & a little cap ( pure c9nab>1 :i* is s s(t 9 tone t x sugge/s ! texture ( sc>let velvet4 ,co*9eal1 :i* 0 fir/ br\ght f ,am]ica 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 has n[ replac$ almo/ e o!r sc>let dye = textiles4 ,crimson is once m5tion$ 9 ,*ronicles z k>mel1#cja :i* may mean ! dye ( ! k]mes insect2#cjb & f ?is ! ^w crimson is legitimately d]iv$4 ,:e!r ! sc>let c\pl$ ) x is a vegetable1 m9]al1 or insect col\r1 we h no means ( asc]ta9+4 ,?\gh y\r s9s be z sc>let1 !y %all be z :ite z sn[2 ?\gh !y be r$ z crimson1 !y %all be z wool4#cjc ,f :at ,pl9y says1 x appe>s t "s gre5 dyes 7 produc$ f a gre5 clay2 o!rs f metals4 ,copp] furni%$ ! mo/ beautiful %ades4 ,blue has always be5 extract$ f indigo4 ,pl9y tells u t ! ,phnicians br\ght x f ,b>b>ike1 9 ! ,indies1 to ,egypt2 & he quotes ! ,p]iplus on ?is subject4 ,he gives an amus+ report t indigo is a fro? collect$ r\nd ! /ems ( c]ta9 re$s2 b he 0 aw>e ( its *>act]i/ic prop]ty1 t ( emitt+ a beautiful purple vap\r :5 submitt$ to great heat2 & he says x smells l ! sea4 ,! ,egyptians likewise extract$ blues f copp]4 ,yell[ 0 anci5tly1 9 ,egypt1 sometimes a vegetable & sometimes a m9]al dye4 ,br[ns & blacks 7 prep>$ f sev]al sub/ances1 especially p9e wood & ! cont5ts ( tombs burn$ into a k9d ( *>coal4 ,we f9d t lime1 *alk1 :ite lead1 & o!r m9]al sub/ances 7 employ$ by ! anci5ts = ! diff]5t approa*es to dazzl+ :it5ess4 ,t ( ! lily1 ! emblem ( purity1 c only be emulat$ 9 textile or pictorial art by opaque sub/ances r$uc$ z mu* z possible by blea*+ to ! la/ expression ( ! col\r ( ! raw mat]ial4 ,no?+ t is transp>5t c be really :ite1 z col\rs are se5 ?r\gh x1 z well z ! reflect$ lights on ! two surfaces4 ,9 pa9t+1 we c produce ! effect ( :it5ess 9 diff]5t ways1 lead+ by ! gradation ( t5d] col\rs & %ad[s up to a high light4 ,b 9 textile art1 :i* is ess5tially flat1 x is necess>y to pursue a diff]5t me?od1 & t ( isolation is ! mo/ simple & effective1 & 0 well und]/ood 9 ,egypt1 ,greece1 & ,india4 ,! :ite patt]n1 or fl[]1 is surr\nd$ ) a f9e d>k l9e 7black is ! be/71 :i* effectually sep>ates x f all ! surr\nd+ col\rs1 & gives x ! effect ( light1 ev5 :5 ! :it5ess reta9s en\gh ( ! natural col\r ( ! raw mat]ial to tone x d[n v p]ceptibly4 ,! eye accepts x z :ite1 & ignores ! t9t t p]vades x1 & is h>dly to be expell$ f silk or wool4 ,l95 & cotton are ! :ite/ ( mat]ials1 aft] pass+ ?r\gh ! h&s ( ! *emi/ or ! blea*]4 ,x is amus+ to obs]ve t ,pl9y reg>d$ col\rs1 :e!r vegetable or m9]al1 r z useful = ! ph>macopeia ( 8 day1 ?an z dyes or arti/ic pigm5ts4 ,he speaks contemptu\sly ( ! art ( 8 "t1 & yet he gives "s curi\s h9ts t are well wor? collect+ = exp]im5t4 ,8 fragm5t>y in=mation1 ?\gh (t5 inaccurate1 is mo/ valuable to ^? :o are seek+ once m to f9d la/+ col\rs1 & despair ( discov]+ mordants t w fix ! anil9e t9ts4 ,f him we le>n m ( ! ,egyptian col\r+ mat]ials ?an ( any o!rs1 z he nam$ _! s\rces1 ,european1 ,asiatic1 or ,african2 & !re is no d\bt ( ! p]fection ( _! mural pigm5ts & textile dyes1 :i* h rema9$ unimpair$ to ! pres5t "t4 ,r5\f says t pa9t+1 z x is n[ und]/ood1 0 totally unkn[n to ! ,egyptians2 b !y und]/ood h>mony ( col\r1#cjd & =mulat$ 9 x c]ta9 pr9ciples = decorative uses4 ,!y made ! prim>y col\rs pr$om9ate ov] ! second>y by quantity & position4 ,!y introduc$ fillets ( :ite or yell[ 9 _! embroid]ies1 z well z 9 _! pa9t+s1 betwe5 r$s & gre5s1 to isolate !m2 & !y balanc$ masses ( yell[ ) a due proportion ( black4 ,!y nev] bl5d$ _! col\rs1 & _h no s5se ( ! h>mony ( prismatic gradations1 or ! melt+ ( "o t9t into ano!r2 ea* 0 work$ up to a h>d & fa/ edge l9e4 ,if 9 "o "p ( a build+1 "o set ( col\rs pr$om9at$1 !y plac$ a great] proportion ( o!r col\rs else:]e1 )9 ! range ( sight1 s z to readju/ ! balance4 ,^? !y employ$ 7 mo/ly e>?y m9]al col\rs 7us$ alike = frescoes & = pa9t+ cotton clo?s1 ?\gh vegetable dyes 7 ne$$ = wooll5s & l95s74 ,^! 73 = :ite1 pure *alk2 = black1 bone-black mix$ ) gum2 = yell[1 yell[ o*re2 = gre51 a mixture ( yell[ o*re & p[d]$ blue glass2 = blue1 ?is same blue glass mix$ ) :ite *alk2 = r$1 an e>?y pigm5t conta9+ iron & alum9ium4#cje ,!y und]/ood ! *emi/ry ( blea*+1 & ! use ( mordants 9 dye+4#cjf ,! /ati/ical records ( ,*9a ( ! "t ( ,hias 7#bbje ,b4,c471 accord+ to ,semp]1 m5tion col\rs z be+ ( five t9ts1 & all ! produce ( ! ,*9ese ,empire4#cjg ,9 ! un*ang+ art ( ,india1 ! anci5t col\rs are us$ n[4 ,!re=e1 :5 we give ! foll[+ li/1 we mu/ suppose t x embraces all t h be5 kn[n f ! beg9n+4 ,indian dyes are mo/ly vegetable4 ,= yell[1 akalbir1 ! root ( ! ,datiscus ,canab9us2 also yell[ is dy$ ) asb>g1 ! fl[] ( ! ,cabul l>kspur 7,delph9ium sp474 ,orange4 ,son]i dy$ ) n>s+>1 ! honey-sc5t$ fl[] ( nyclan!s 7,arbor ,tri/is74 ,sc>let is fir/ dy$ ) co*9eal 7=m]ly ) k]mes71 :i* gives a crimson col\r2 next ) n>s+>1 :i* turns x v]milion4 ,purple is dy$ fir/ ) co*9eal 7=m]ly k]mes71 aft]w>ds ) indigo4 ,lilac4 ,ditto1 only pal]4 ,blue4 ,all %ades ( indigo4 ,gre54 ,) indigo fir/1 & next ! v>i\s yell[ dyes4 ,br[n4 ,s&al-wood1 call$ s&ali2 almond col\r 7,badami74 ,grey4 ,sulphate ( iron & gold4 ,black4 ,deepe/ %ade ( indigo4#cjh ,speak+ ( ,indian col\r$ textiles1 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood says3 ,all viol5t contra/s are avoid$4 ,! ri*e/ col\rs are us$1 b are s arrang$ z to produce ! effect ( a neutral bloom1 :i* tones d[n e detail almo/ to ! s(tness & transp>5cy ( ! atmosph]e4 ,he says t 9 _! app>el bo? ! col\r+ & ! ornam5ts are adapt$ to ! effect :i* ! fabrics w produce :5 worn & 9 motion4 ,x is only ?r\gh g5]ations ( pati5t practice t m5 atta9 to ! my/]y ( su* subtleties4 ,an outl9e1 9 black or "s d>k col\r t h>monizes ) ! gr\nd1 or else work$ 9 gold1 is common 9 ,indian "w1 n only = ! purpose ( isolat+ ! col\rs ( ! design1 b also to give a uni=m tone to ! :ole surface ( ! texture4 ,_! traditional arrangem5ts ( t9ts 7 ?or\ghly satisfy+ to ! eye4 ,b deg5]at$ by ,european comm]ce1 ! arti/ic s5se ( beauty itself is disappe>+ ?r\gh\t our ,indian ,empire4 ,p]sian c>pets 7! f9e old ones ( ! f\rte5? to ! sev5te5? c5turies7 give u lessons 9 ! art ( isolat+ col\rs4 ,9 ^!1 a fl[] w lie ^u a surface :i* conta9s two or m o!r t9ts1 & z ! design passes ov] !m1 ! outl9e col\r is *ang$1 s z to isolate ! fl[] equally on ! diff]5t gr\nds4 ,?is is done ) su* art t ! eye ignores ! transition till x is call$ to rem>k x4 ,= in/ance1 z a :ite1 or no-col\r$ patt]n1 w&]s ov] a gre5 & r$ gr\nd1 ! outl9e *anges sudd5ly f gre5 to r$1 & aga9 to gre5 z x leaves ! opposite col\r on ! gr\nd patt]n4 ,mr4 ,floy] speaks ( ! brilliancy & la/+ qualities ( ! dyes :i* ! ,p]sians1 by sl[ & t$i\s processes1 extract f plants2 f ! runas*k 7madd]71 a f9e r$2 f ! z>ili 7! gold571 :i* is a yell[ fl[] f ,khorasan1 & also f ! leaves ( ! v9e1 a bright yell[4#cji ,!y import indigo f ,%a/ra 7or f ,india71 by ! ,khurum riv]4 ,he says ^! dyes are p]fectly fa/1 leav+ no trace on a wett$ rubb]1 :]eas ! ,european dyes !y sometimes use come (f freely4 ,pl9y says ! ,gauls _h inv5t$ dyes c\nt]feit+ ! purple ( ,tyre2 also sc>let1 violet1 & gre51 all ( ^! 7 dipp$ 9 ! juices ( h]bs4#caj ,vitruvius says ! ,romans extract$ dyes f fl[]s & fruits1 b he nei!r specifies nor describes !m4 ,! anci5t ,highl& t>tans 7 dy$ ) b>k ( ald] = black1 b>k ( will[ = fle% col\r4 ,a li*5 gr[+ on /ones suppli$ _! violets & crimson4#caa ,! li*5 on ! bir*-tree gives a good br[n2 hea!r gives r$1 purple1 & gre54#cab ,?us we see t pure col\rs = dye+ textiles h be5 extract$ f vegetable sub/ances--h]bs1 wood1 se$s1 fl[]s & fruits1 mosses & sea-we$s2#cac m9]al sub/ances--e>?s1 s&s1 ores1 metals1 ru/s1 & /ones2 animal sub/ances--bo? ( l&1 wat]1 & air2 bea/s1 fi%es1 %ells1 birds1 & insects4 ,x is evid5t1 f ! d]ivation ( ! ^w1 t !re 7 *romatic scales 9 col\r be=e ! phrase 0 ev] appli$ to music4 ,! ,greeks & ,romans are suppos$ to h und]/ood *romatic scales ( t9ts--animal1 vegetable1 & m9]al--& except ) ! int5tion ( produc+ />tl+ effects1 !y did n mix !m4 ,!y felt t ea* 0 h>moni\s z a :ole1 &1 unlike ! ,egyptians1 !y /udi$ h>mony4 ,!y arrang$ _! scales accord+ to ! mat]ials f :i* !y 7 extract$1 & kept ^? f diff]5t *emical s\rces ap>t1 z be+ discordant4#cad ,"o scale 0 t ( ! iod9e col\rs1 ( & f ! sea4 ,m>9e products are mo/ly iridesc5t4 ,to compreh5d ?is1 ?9k ( ! h>moni\s int]*ange ( delicate t9ts1 call$ by ! anci5ts purple1 on a /r+ ( pe>ls4 ,%ells & %ell-fi%1 sea-we$s & fi%1 furni%$ ^! dyes4 ,!y 7 call$ con*iliata4 ,! *emi/ry ( ! arts ( blea*+ 0 n unkn[n to ! anci5ts2 b !y res]v$ & regulat$ x = c]ta9 purposes1 pref]r+ to reta9 at lea/ a "p ( ! orig9al col\r+1 z %ades ( gr\nd+ :i* s]v$1 z a surface glaze does 9 pa9t+1 to connect & h>monize ! sup]9duc$ t9ts4 ,exp]im5ts ) ! object ( reviv+ ?is mode ( produc+ h>moni\s comb9ations1 h be5 made lately at ! ,wilton ,c>pet ,works1 by dye+ %ades ( col\r on unblea*$ goat's & camel's hair1 & %eep's wool2 & ! tones produc$ are beautifully s(t & ri*4 ,m4 ,ed\>d ,*>ton ascribes ! great *ange 9 ! mod]n scales ( col\rs to ! discov]y by ! ,fr5*1 9 ! ,gobel9s1 ( a pure sc>let dye1 ! use ( :i* made x necess>y to raise ! tone ( all o!r col\rs4 ,he says t sc>let 0 =m]ly repres5t$ by ! dye call$ k]mes1 :i* inde$ 0 n sc>let1 b alt]$ f crimson to some?+ approa*+ x by ! addition ( n>s+>1 ( :i* ! bright yell[ gave ! sc>let effect4 ,m4 ,*evreul1 director ( ! dye+ dep>tm5t ( ! ,gobel9s1 has succe$$ 9 compos+ ! *romatic prism1 to :i* ,i h already allud$1 conta9+ #ddbj diff]5t tones4 ,we may take x = grant$1 t f ^! may be select$ any possible scale ( t9ts requir$ = decorative "w4 ,?is va/ area = *oice ( our mat]ial w impose on ! arti/ ( ! future fre% responsibilities4 ,9 ! typical ,ori5tal col\r+1 ! :ole arrangem5t 0 traditional1 & x 0 irreligi\s to dep>t f :at _h be5 fix$ by /atute _m c5turies be=e1 & only p]fect$ by ! exp]i5ce ( _m g5]ations ( m52 & ?is v5]ation = traditional cu/om has hi!rto be5 preval5t 9 ,european art to a c]ta9 po9t4 ,b ! old cons]vative p]fection ( unadult]at$ col\r has already be5 done away )4 ,! fre$om ( exp]im5tal art is *>t]$1 & m]cantile int]e/s n[1 z ev]1 gov]n ! supply ( mat]ials4 ,our normal bad ta/e & c>elessness has be5 ca/ back on ! l&s :i* 7 ! cradle ( art1 & we receive1 to our surprise1 gaudy1 vulg>1 & discordant comb9ations f ! ,ea/1 :5ce we drew our fir/ inspirations4 ,= ! future we %all h to /udy anci5t specim5s1 & correct our errors by ! help ( _! tea*+ to ! eye & m9d4 ,gas col\rs are at pres5t our wor/ sn>es4 ,!y are 9 g5]al v beautiful2 b !y are s evanesc5t1 & fade into su* unexpect$ & contradictory tones1 t we _c reckon ^u !m4 ,:5 embroid]+ ) ! col\r$ mat]ials ( ! day1 we are 9 con/ant dread ( :at disa/r\s effect may be produc$ by ! fir/ %aft ( sun%9e t may fall f our mod]ately illum9at$ sky1 ?r\gh ! uncurta9$ w9d[4 ,! trade 9 col\rs c h>dly be an hone/ "o1 till ! means ( fix+ ea* t9t p]man5tly is asc]ta9$4#cae ,at any rate1 some?+ %\ld be done t[>ds gr\p+ !m1 ) respect to _! endur+ qualities1 s t :5 !y fade1 if fade !y mu/1 !y may d s h>moni\sly1 & 9 sympa?y ) ea* o!r2 & :ile !y are 9 _! fir/ gl[ !y %\ld be select$1 z mu* z possible1 f :at ,pl9y calls natural col\rs1#caf :i* recall ! exquisite effects ( nature1 se>*$ out & display$ by e sunny gleam1 reflect$ on ea* o!r 9 lovely tones1 & subdu$ & veil$ by pass+ %ad[s4 ,x is said t ,mr4 ,w>dle1 ( ,leek1 is n[ seek+ = dyes ( pure unadult]at$ col\rs1 & mordants to fix !m4 ,he des]ves all success4 ,! reason ,i h ent]$1 9 ev5 s cursory a mann]1 into ! hi/ory ( col\rs is my desire to po9t out ! great value plac$1 long ago1 on ! c>eful prep>ation ( ^? us$ 9 anci5t textile art2 & to %[ h[ our =efa!rs s\ght !m out 9 _m l&s & wat]s2 h[ !y not$ _! v>ieties2 h[ !y class$ & priz$ !m = _! endurance z well z = _! pri/9e beauty2 h[ !y paid _! weight 9 gold or silv] = c]ta9 culm9at+ t9ts2 & h[ !y1 !re=e1 produc$ works :i* became matt]s ( hi/ory & l&m>ks 9 civilization4 ,,footnotes3 #bhc ,see+1 !y saw n1 nei!r did !y und]/&4 #bhd ,see ,pl9y's ,natural ,hi/ory1 :i* gives mu* in=mation on ! subject4 #bhe ,e4 ,curtius1 ,greek ,hi/ory2 ,engl4 ,trans41 i4 p4 #dch2 ,blmn]'s ,te*nologie1 p4 #baf4 #bhf ,*>p5ti] diff]5tiates 9 e normal eye a s5sibility = light1 a s5sibility = col\r1 & a s5sibility = =m 7a visual s5sibility74--,see ,mod]n ,!ories ( ,col\r1 ,! ,lancet1 ,augu/ #ai?1 #ahhb1 p4 #bgf4 ,we c p]ceive1 by /udy+ works ( art1 h[ v>i\sly ^! gifts are di/ribut$1 or1 at any rate1 h[ diff]5tly !y are receiv$ & act$ ^u by individual m9ds4 #bhg ,! effect ( col\r on ! bra9 is a subject only j n[ beg9n+ to attract att5tion4 ,exp]im5ts on ! insane h be5 made 9 ,italy1 especially1 ,i believe1 at ,v5ice2 & x is said to be asc]ta9$ t r$ & gre5 are irritants1 :]eas w9d[s glaz$ ) blue glass alt]nat+ ) :ite h s5sibly calm$ ! n]ves ( ! pati5ts4 #bhh ,let u comp>e ! beautiful creations ( ! ,v5etian s*ool ) ! demoraliz+ brightness ( anil9e col\rs1 or ! opaque1 e>?y t9ts :i* "s call beautiful1 mi/ak+ _! dulness = s(tness & sobriety ( col\r+4 ,b !y1 too1 h _! uses4 #bhi ,black & r$ are1 9 ecclesia/ical "w1 ! emblems ( m\rn+4 #bij ,! ,b>dic rules 9 e>ly ,brita9 enjo9$ ?ree simple col\rs3 sky blue1 ! emblem ( peace1 = ! b>d & poet2 gre51 = ! ma/] ( natural hi/ory & woodcraft2 spotless :ite 7! symbol ( hol9ess71 = ! prie/ & ,druid4 #bia ,! bl9d man said t r$ 0 l ! s\nd ( a trumpet1 :i* %[s :at a s\l-/irr+ col\r x 0 9 8 m9d's eye4 #bib ,purpura is suppos$ to mean crimson velvet4 ,x came1 l cramoisi1 to be a "n = a tissue4 ,fr4 ,mi*ell quotes velvet ( ,v]meil-cramoisi1 violet & blue cramoisi1 & p\rpre ( div]s col\rs1 b he says he nev] met ) p\rpre blan*e4 ,yule1 ed4 #ahge1 i4 p4 #fg4 ,plano ,c>p9i 7p4 #gee7 says ! c\rti]s ( ,k>akorum 7 clad 9 :ite purpura2 & t on ! fir/ day ( ! great fe/ival 9 hon\r ( ! inauguration ( ,kuyuk ,khan1 all ! ,mogul nobles 7 clad 9 p\rpre blan*e1 ! second day 9 ruby purple1 & ! ?ird 9 blue purple3 on ! f\r? day !y appe>$ 9 ,baudi*9 7clo? ( gold74 7,yule1 ,m>co ,polo1 vol4 i4 p4 #cgf47 ,:ite purple is also nam$ 9 ! inv5tories ( ,/a4 ,m>ia ,maggiore at ,rome1 & ^? ( ,notre ,dame 9 ,p>is4 ,hi/oire du ,tissu ,anci51 l',exposition de l',union ,gnrale des ,arts ,dcoratifs4 #bic ,franois ,le ,normant1 9 8 ,gr&e ,grce1 tells ( ! dye ( ! purple ( ,t>5tum f ! murex1 f\nd 9 ! ,m>e ,piccolo4 ,he says t ,t>5t9e musl9s1 wov5 f ! filam5ts ( ! p9na dipp$ 9 ! dye ( ! murex1 rivall$ ^? ( ,cos4 ,le ,normant lam5ts ! total neglect ( ! murex 9 ^! days 7c\ld its trade be reviv$87 ,plut>* says t ,alex&] ! ,great1 hav+ made himself ma/] ( ,susa 7,%u%an71 f\nd1 among/ o!r ri*es ( m>vell\s value1 purple ( ,h]mione wor? =ty ?\s& tal5ts 7,qu9tus ,curtius says fifty ?\s&71 :i*1 ?\gh x _h be5 /or$ #aij ye>s1 reta9$ all its fre%ness & beauty4 ,see ,plut>*'s ,lives1 edit$ by ,j4 & ,w4 ,langhorne1 vol4 ii4 p4 #gci2 ,blmn]1 i4 p4 #bbd-bdj4 ,! reason assign$ = _! dye be+ s p]fect 0 t ! ,susanians knew h[ to comb ! wool to be dipp$1 & prep>e x ) honey4 ,accord+ to ,ari/otle ! dress ( ,alci/h5es1 ! ,syb>ite1 0 dy$ ) ?is purple f ,%u%an 7,ciamp9i1 ,vet4 ,mon474 #bid ,semp] gives u an acc\nt ( iod9e col\rs4 ,"s1 he says1 7 extract$ f sea-we$s1 gre5 & yell[2 ! purples1 :5 f9e/1 f ! %ell-fi%4 ,! ,phnician coa/s gave ! be/ purples2 ^? ( ! ,atlantic ! be/ blacks & br[ns4 ,& ?us he completes ! scale ( iod9e col\rs4 ,see ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #bjf4 #bie ,heaps ( ! %ells ( ?is murex trunculus h be5 f\nd at ,pompeii1 ne> ! dy]s' works4 ,h>d\9 says t 9 8 "t !y 7 f\nd at ,otranto1 & simil> rema9s h be5 notic$ at ,sidon4 ,sir ,james ,lacaita in=ms me t ! liv+ %ells are /ill f\nd along ! %ores ( ! ,adriatic1 z well z on ! wa% ne> ,argos4 ,no d\bt ! ,phnicians trad$ fir/ 9 ! produce ( ! ,sidonian & ,tyrian coa/s1 ?\gh !y aft]w>ds w5t f>!r afield 9 collect+ _! dyes4 ,aub]ville says t ! purple ( ! ,romans 0 a deep violet 7d\ble dy$1 purpur dibaph71 & t ?is col\r 0 ,asiatic4 ,! ,phnicians trad$ 9 x1 & sold x = its weight 9 silv]4 ,in/ead ( fad+ 9 ! sun%9e1 its col\r int5sifi$4 ,! endur+ nature ( ?is col\r is prov$ by ! purple fragm5ts f a ,greek tomb 9 ! ,crimea ( ab\t #cjj ,b4,c41 describ$ 9 *apt] on /it*es1 p4 #bag4 ,see ,hi/oire du ,tissu ,anci51 l',exposition de l',union ,gnrale des ,arts ,dcoratifs4 #bif ,?\gh really r$ ( ! pure/ col\r1 x d\btless receiv$ its "n ( ,tyrian purple z be+ "o ( ! mat]ials ( ! ame?y/9e d\ble dye4 ,! web or fleece 0 fir/ dipp$ 9 ! dye ( ,purpura1 & !n 9 t ( ! ,bucc9um1 or !y rev]s$ ! process to give a diff]5t t9t4 ,?is is ,pl9y's acc\nt ( ! process ( dye+1 :i* is v simple1 & gives no details4 ,semp] says t ! anci5ts call$ black & :ite ! two extremes ( purple--:ite ! ?9ne/1 & black ! ?icke/ or mo/ solid lay] ( col\r4 ,bo? 7 ?us consid]$ z col\r4 7,semp]1 i4 pp4 #bje-g47 ,z long z !re is light1 black always appe>s to be ei!r blue1 or br[n1 or gre51 till ) d>kness all col\r disappe>s4 #big ,exod4 xxv4 ,semp] 7i4 p4 #ajc7 sugge/s t ^! rams' sk9s 7 dy$ ) ! p]iploca secamone--a plant /ill us$ = ?is purpose 9 ,egypt4 #bih ,j]emiah xxii4 #ad4 #bii ,ezekiel xxiii4 #ad3 ,! images ( ! ,*aldeans4 ,! m5 portray$ 9 v]milion on ! wall4 #cjj ,villi]s ,/u>t1 ,fun]al ,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que54 ,see ,app5dix4 #cja #b ,*ron4 ii4 #g4 #cjb ,! ,arabs receiv$ ! k]mis f ,arm5ia1 & ! "n 0 orig9ally ,qu]-ms1 oak-apple4 ,s>dis 0 fam$ = its k]mes dye4 ,see ,birdwood1 ,indian ,arts1 p4 #bch1 ed4 #ahhj1 & ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 i4 p4 #fg4 #cjc ,isa4 ii4 #ah4 #cjd ,r5\f's ,hibb]t ,lectures1 p4 #fg-fi4 ,x may be call$ balance1 r ?an h>mony4 #cje ,wilk9son1 ,mann]s ( ! ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 iii4 pp4 #cja-c4 #cjf ,blmn]1 p4 #bbj4 ,see ,pl9y1 ,natural ,hi/ory1 xxxv4 #db4 #cjg ,semp]1 i4 p4 #bdh4 #cjh ,see ,birdwood's ,indian ,arts1 p4 #bgb4 ,9 ! ,code ( ,manu1 black g>m5ts are sacr$ to ! ,indian ,saturn1 yell[ to ,v5us1 & r$ to ,m>s4 ,see ,birdwood1 p4 #bce4 #cji ,see ,floy]'s ,unexplor$ ,balu*i/an1 pp4 #bgh1 #cgc1 #djf4 ,! ,p]sians produce _! deep yell[ f ! sk9 ( ! pomegranate1 by boil+ x 9 alum4 ,major ,murdo* ,smi? describes ! ,p]sian processes = dye+ patt]ns r$ & black 9 textiles4 ,! ,italian wom5 dye _! own dresses 9 ! pomegranate yell[2 also 9 turm]ic yell[1 & o!r vegetable dyes4 #caj ,pl9y1 ,natural ,hi/ory1 xxii4 #c4 ,un=tunately1 ,pl9y seldom condesc5ds to give u ! recipes = dye+ processes4 #caa ,logan's ,scotti% ,g>b4 #cab ,see ,elton's ,orig9s ( ,engli% ,hi/ory4 #cac ,! ,cretan t9cture 0 extract$ f a plant :i* ,!ophra/us1 ,dioscorides1 & ,pl9y respectively "n4 ,! la/ calls x ! ,phycos ?alassion4 ,?is 0 n a sea-we$1 b a li*5--probably ! same f :i* ! or*id purple ( mod]n art is prep>$4 ,see ,birdwood1 ,indian ,arts1 i4 p4 #bch4 #cad ,! same scale ( col\r v>ies z mu* on ! diff]5t textiles employ$1 z x does f ! col\rs extract$ f o!r *emicals4 ,silk1 wool1 cotton1 flax1 give v diff]5t results4 ,! col\r+ matt] may be id5tical1 yet y _c place !m side by side )\t be+ aw>e t !y may be repellant1 in/ead ( h>moni\s 9 tone4 ,! scale is sometimes remov$ to ano!r pit*1 & !y w no m h>monize ?an in/rum5ts t h n be5 attun$ to ! same diapason4 ,see ,r$grave's ,report on ,textile ,fabrics4 #cae ,) ! *anges 9 col\r+ mat]ials has aris5 ! necessity = discov]+ new mordants4 ,! gas col\r ( madd] is exactly ! same *emically z t extract$ f ! vegetable1 b ! old mordant does n fix x1 & x *anges v soon to a dull blacki%-purple hue4 #caf ,pl9y1 ,natural ,hi/ory1 ix4 #ab4 ,! mo/ unnatural1 & ! mo/ disagreeable dyes1 are ! mag5tas4 ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood tells u t ! ,mah>ajah ( ,ca%m]e has adopt$ a mo/ effici5t plan = ! suppression ( mag5ta dyes )9 8 dom9ions--fir/1 a duty ( #de p] c5t4 on ent]+ ! c\ntry1 & at a c]ta9 di/ance )9 ! fronti]1 !y are confiscat$ & de/roy$4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,"p #a4 ,,/it*es4 ,/it*es 9 ne$lework correspond to ! t\*es ( ! p5cil or bru% 9 draw+ or pa9t+1 or to ! /rokes ( ! *isel 9 sculpture4 ,! ne$le is ! "o implem5t ( ! craft by :i* endless =ms ( surface-"w are execut$4 ,) a ?read ?r\gh its "o eye1 x bl9dly foll[s ea* ef=t ( its po9t$ foot1 urg$ by ! intellig5t or me*anical h& gr\p+ ! /it*es1 :i*1 be+ long or %ort1 s+le or mix$1 slant+1 upright1 or cross$1 are select$ z ! be/ fitt$ = ! design & purpose 9 h&4 ,! ^w /it*es does n1 h[ev]1 9 ?is *apt] repres5t m]ely ! plural ( "o p>ticul> process ( ne$le ins]tion1 b ! produce & effect ( ea* diff]5t k9d ( /it* by gr\p+ & repetition1 accord+ to its mo/ anci5t nom5clature4 ,t :i* is a/oni%+ is ! endless v>iety ( surface1 ( design1 ( h9ts & sugge/ions1 ( />tl+ effects1 & ( lovely comb9ations1 result+ f ! direction ( ! ne$le & manipulation ( ! mat]ials1 & diff]+ f ea* o!r accord+ to ! p[] or ! caprice ( ! work]4 ,b ! ma*9e is always ! same--! ?read$ ne$le /rikes ! same int]val1 =m+ ! /it*4 ,?is v5]able implem5t1 ! ne$le1 has1 ?r\gh ! ages1 v>i$ b little 9 =m4 ,! att5uat$ body1 ! %>p foot1 ! r\nd$ head1 & ! eye to hold ! ?read1 are ! same 9 pr9ciple1 :e!r x is f\nd 9 ! cave-man's grave1 =m$ ( a fi%'s bone or %ap$ f t ( a l>g] animal2 hamm]$ ( ! f9e/ bronze1 z f ,egypt1 or ( gold1 l ^? f\nd 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,a bronze ne$le 0 lately discov]$ 9 ! tomb ( a woman ( ! ,vik+s 9 ,scotl&1 & its value is %[n by its be+ plac$ 9 a silv] case4 ,/eel ne$les 7 fir/ made 9 ,engl& 9 #aede1 by a native ( ,india4 ,8 successor1 ,*ri/oph] ,gre5+1 e/abli%$ a work%op 9 #aefj at ,long ,cr5don1 9 ,bucks1 :i* exi/$ !re z a ne$le factory till q lately4 ,! ru/ic poetic drama1 entitl$ ,gamm] ,gurton's ,ne$le1 p]=m$ at ,*4 ,coll41 ,cambridge1 9 #aeff1 0 a regul> com$y1 ( :i* a lo/ ne$le 0 ! h]o4 ,9 ^? days ! village ne$le 0 evid5tly /ill a r>e & preci\s possession4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 ,bronze ne$les f ,egyptian tombs n[ 9 ,briti% ,museum4 #f4 ,cave-man's ne$le f ! ,p9hole1 ,*ur*field1 ,ereswell ,crag4 #g4 ,bone ne$le f ,la ,madele9e1 ,dordogne4 ,! art ( embroid]y consi/s ( a design1 :i* includes ! patt]n1 & ! h&icraft or /it*es--! motive & ! ne$lework4 ,9 pa9t+1 z 9 sculpture1 ! fir/ idea1 z well z ! la/ t\*1 mu/ come f ! same head & h&4 ,b 9 ne$lework x is n s4 ,! patt]n is ! result ( tradition4 ,x is almo/ always simply a v>iation ( old =ms1 alt]$ & r5ew$ by surr\nd+ circum/ances & sudd5 or gradual p]iods ( *ange4 ,h[ev] mu* ! design may alt]1 ris+ (t5 to ! highe/ po9t ( decorative art1 & z (t5 fall+ back to ! l[e/ & mo/ mean+less repetitions & imitations1 ! /it*es !mselves v>y b little4 ,! same are to be f\nd 9 ,egyptian & ,greek specim5s1 & ! classical names are ^? us$ by m$ival writ]s1 & h come d[n to u1 float+ l bubbles on ! waves ( "t4 ,sir ,george ,birdwood#cag ?9ks t e k9d ( /it* is f\nd 9 traditional ,indian "w4 ,i confess t ,i h n be5 able hi!rto to trace any ( ! mosaic /it*es to ,india1 nor d we ev] see !m 9 ,*9ese or ,japanese embroid]y1 :i* %[s e o!r v>iety4 ,!y are1 h[ev]1 occasionally f\nd 9 ,egyptian "w4 ,! foll[+ is a li/ ( /it*es1 "u ! nom5clature ( classical1 ,roman & m$ival au?ors3-- ,opus ,phrygionium or ,phrygium4 ,pass+ or metal ?read "w4 ,opus ,pulv9>ium4 ,%r9e or cu%ion "w4 ,opus ,plum>ium4 ,plumage or fea!r "w4 ,opus ,consutum4 ,cut "w4 ,opus ,araneum or ,filatorium4 ,net or lace "w4 ,opus ,pect9eum4 ,tape/ry or comb$ "w4 ,"h are two ,engli% li/s ( /it*es2 _! qua9tness mu/ be my excuse = copy+ !m4 ,! fir/ is f ,taylor1 ! wat]-poet's ,praise ( ! ,ne$le 7sixte5? c5tury73-- ,t5t "w1 rais$ "w1 laid "w1 pre/ "w1 ,net "w1 mo/ curi\s pe>l or r>e ,italian cut "w1 ,f9e f]n /it*1 f9ny /it*1 new /it*1 & *a9 /it*1 ,brave br$ /it*1 fi%] /it*1 ,iri% /it*1 & que5's /it*1 ,! ,spani% /it*1 rosem>y /it*1 & maw /it*1 ,! sm>t+ :ip /it*1 back /it*1 & ! cross /it*4-- ,all ^! are good1 & ^! we mu/ all[1 ,& ^! are ev]y:]e 9 practice n[4 ,! second li/ is f ,rees' ,cyclopdia 7,/it*es71 #ahai3-- ,spani% /it*1 ,t5t /it* on ! f+]1 ,t5t /it* 9 ! t5t or frame1 ,iri% /it*1 ,=e /it*1 ,gold /it*1 ,twi/ /it*1 ,f]n /it*1 ,broad /it*1 ,rosem>y /it*1 ,*ip /it*1 ,rais$ "w1 ,g5eva "w1 ,cut "w1 ,laid "w1 ,back /it*1 ,que5's /it*1 ,sat9 /it*1 ,f9ny /it*1 ,*a9 /it*1 ,fi%]'s /it*1 ,b[ /it*1 ,cross /it*1 ,ne$lework purl1 ,virg9's device1 ,op5 cut "w1 ,/it* "w1 ,?r\gh /it*1 ,rock "w1 ,net "w1 & ,l5t "w4 ,all :i* are swete mann]s ( "w wr\ghte by ! ne$le ) silke ( all natures1 purls1 wyres1 & weft or =eign bread 7'braid'71 etc41 etc4 ,"p #b4 ,,pla9 ,,"w ,,& ,,:ite ,,"w4 ,we are told t ! primal man & woman sew$ 9 ,p>adise4 ,to sew1 9 contradi/9ction to ! ^w to embroid]1 is d]iv$ f ! ,sanskrit su1 su*i1 & !nce import$ into ,lat91 suo4#cah ,to prove h[ highly e/eem$ ne$lework 0 among ! ,romans1 ,i may m5tion t ! equival5t ( ! phrase to hit ! "r nail on ! head 0 rem acu tang]e1 to t\* ! "q ) ! po9t ( ! ne$le4 ,pla9 "w is t :i* is necess>y4 ,z soon z textiles are ne$$ = cov]+ & clo?+1 ! means are inv5t$ = draw+ ! cut edges toge!r1 & = prev5t+ ! fray+ :]e ! mat]ial is lac]at$ by ! %ap+ process4 ,h5ce ! seam1 ! hem1 & all ! =ms ( /it*es t b9d & plait4 ,^! necess>y /it*es con/itute pla9 ne$lework1 & are closely foll[$ by decorative /it*es1 :i* 9 gradation cov] ! space betwe5 pla9 ne$lework & embroid]y4 ,semp] has giv5 u 8 ar*ological !ories = ! orig9 ( ne$lework & its /it*es4 ,^! are 8 argum5ts1 if n always 8 words4 ,he says3 ,! seam is "o ( ! fir/ human successful ef=ts to conqu] difficulties4#cai ,a /r+1 a ribbon1 a b&1 may s]ve to keep toge!r sev]al loose ?+s2 b by means ( ! seam1 small ?+s actually become l>ge ones4 ,= example3 a full-gr[n man c1 by its help1 cov] himself ) a g>m5t made ( ! sk9s ( _m small animals4 ,:5 ,eve sew$ fig-leaves toge!r1 %e made ( ^! small pieces a g>m5t ( pat*work4 ,act+ on ! pr9ciple ( mak+ a virtue ( necessity1 accept+ & adorn+ ! sev]e facts ( life1 seams came to be an important vehicle ( ornam5t4 ,! ,gauls & ,britons embroid]$ ! seams ( _! fur g>m5ts4 ,we may judge ( ! antiquity ( ! seam by its univ]sal & my?ological mean+4 ,! seam1 ! tie1 ! knot1 ! plait1 & ! me% are ! e>lie/ symbols ( fate unit+ ev5ts4#cbj ,we f9d b little m5tion ( pla9 "w 9 m$ival writ+s4 ,:5 l95 0 work$ = "s hon\rable purpose1 su* z a gift to a fri5d or a royal p]sonage1 x 0 g5]ally embroid]$ or /it*$ 9 "s fancy fa%ion4 ,que5 ,elizabe? pres5t$ ,edw>d ,,vi41 on 8 second bir?day1 ) a smock made by h]self4 ,f9e l95 0 ab\t ?is "t con/antly edg$ ) bone laces4 ,mrs4 ,floy] has writt5 s well1 & giv5 u s mu* practical in=mation on pla9 ne$lework1 t ,i feel x unnecess>y to ent] at any l5g? into ! pr9ciples ( pla9 sew+1 z my !me is ne$lework z decorative art4 ,mrs4 ,floy] has1 z x 71 unpick$ & unravell$ e /it* 9 pla9 "w1 till %e has discov]$ & laid b>e its int5tion1 its con/ruction1 & effect4 ,%e1 has also giv5 u rules made cle> to ! dulle/ und]/&+1 in/ruct+ u h[ to tea* ! "y & ignorant4 ,%e %[s u ! quicke/ & mo/ p]fect way ( work+ diff]5t mat]ials = diff]5t purposes1 & tells u h[ to select !m4 ,i w1 !re=e1 ref] my read]s to h] mo/ useful & in/ructive books1#cba & pass on at once f ! craft ( pla9 ne$lework1 to /it*es z ! art ( embroid]y4 ,! l9k betwe5 pla9 & decorative "w des]ves att5tion4 ,?is l9k is :ite embroid]y4 ,i imag9e x 0 n a v anci5t =m ( ! art1 & 0 practis$ fir/ 9 m$ival days2 :5 we beg9 to h con/ant notices ( x4 ,! fir/ :ite laces appe> to h foll[$ close ^u ! fir/ :ite embroid]ies4 ,!re is a tomb ( ! f\rte5? c5tury 9 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,ara ,cli at ,rome1 :]e ! effigy ( a knight lies on 8 b$1 drap$ ) a %eet & a cov]let1 bo? embroid]$4 ,^! are evid5tly ( l95 work$ 9 :ite4#cbb ,i give a draw+ ( !m 9 illu/ration 7pl4 #ci74 ,f t date we f9d cont9ually m5tion ( su* "w by nuns & ladies4#cbc ,9 ,engl& x 0 especially call$ nuns' "w 7plate #db74 ,!re is a great survival ( ?is /it*]y 9 ,italy among/ ! peasantry4 ,!y h always adorn$ _! smocks & aprons1 & _! l95 head-cov]+s1 & ! bord]s ( %eets = great occasions1 ) patt]ns 9 flat /it*es1 cut /it*es1 & drawn "w4 ,! ,greek peasants d ! same4 ,9 ,g]many w be f\nd mu* curi\s :ite embroid]y1 ( designs :i* %[ _! antiquity2 & f ,spa9 we get ,spani% "w 9 black1 on :ite l951 :i* is ne>ly alli$ to ! /it*es ( :ite "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ci4 ,embroid]y imitat$ 9 m>ble on ! tomb ( a knight1 9 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,ara ,cli1 ,rome4 ,"l ,arundel ( ,w>d\r possesses a l95 cov] = a tab]nacle 7or else x is a processional cloak7 :i* is ( ! pure/ ,hispano-,moori% design1 & unrivall$ 9 beauty4 ,x is embroid]$ 9 ,spani% /it*es 9 :ite ?read1 on ! f9e/ l951 & is int]sect$ ) f9e lace ins]tion 7pl4 #dj74 ,x is said to h be5 f\nd 9 ! "t ( ,elizabe? ) "s o!r articles 9 a dry well2 among !m a little sat9 %oe1 ( :i* ! %ape proves its date to be ( ! end ( ,h5ry ,,viii4's reign4 ,russian embroid]y1 consi/+ ( geometrical patt]ns 9 r$1 blue1 & black ?read1 is ( ?is class4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #dj4 ,processional ,cloak1 "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 belong+ to ,"l ,arundel ( ,w>d\r4 ,9 ,engl& alone1 ! peasantry d no :ite "w = home use1 & we mu/ suppose x has nev] be5 a dome/ic occupation4 ,inde$1 ! love ( ! ne$le is by no means an ,engli% national t5d5cy1 9 ! l[] classes4 ,no?+ b ! pla9e/ "w is taught 9 our s*ools4 ,any?+ approa*+ to decorative art1 ) u1 has be5 ! accompli%m5t ( educat$ wom51 & n ! employm5t ( leisure mom5ts 9 ! h\ses ( ! poor4 ,semp]1 9 ,d] ,/il1#cbd gives rules = :ite embroid]y1 & ! reasons f :i* he d$uces !m are good4 ,he says1 t all[+ x z a maxim t ea* textile has its own uses & its own beauties1 we %\ld place no?+ on l95 :i* w\ld militate aga9/ its inh]5t qualities & m]its2 & t1 z ! great beauty ( flax is its smoo?ness & purity1 all projections & r\ghnesses %\ld be avoid$ :i* w\ld cat* du/ or ?r[ a %ad[4 ,c>ry+ out ?is idea1 x w\ld appe> t sat91 & n lace /it*es are !re=e1 ! mo/ suitable = ?is k9d ( decoration4 ,! accept$ rule = select+ ! /it* = ea* piece ( "w is ?is3 on /\t gr\nds ! ?read %\ld be r\nd & ri*1 :]eas delicate mat]ials c>ry be/ ! mo/ ref9$ & %9+ ?read "w2 & 9 embroid]+ ! smoo? surface ( l95 fabrics1 ! flatte/ /it*es are ! mo/ appropriate4 ,"p #c4 ,,opus ,,phrygium 7or gold "w74 ,gold embroid]ies 7 by ! ,romans attribut$ to ! ,phrygians4 ,all gold "w 0 vaguely suppos$ to be !irs1 z all o!r embroid]y 0 includ$ 9 ! craft ( ! ,plum>ii 9 ,rome4 ,x has be5 disput$ :e!r ne$lework 9 gold prec$$ ! weav+ ( flat gold or ?read into /uffs1 or :e!r x 0 an aft]-?\ght1 & an enri*m5t ( su* textiles4 ,i imag9e t ! embroid]y 0 ! fir/1 & t ! aft]-?\ght 0 ! art ( weav+ gold4 ,babylonian embroid]ies appe> to be ( gold wire1 z we see !m 9 ! ,n9evite m>bles4 ,an in/ance ( ! way gold5 embroid]ies 7 display$ among ! ,greeks is t ( ! ,a!nian peplos1 :i*1 z ,i h already said 7p4 #cb71 0 work$ by embroid]esses "u ! sup]9t5d5ce ( two ,arrhephor ( noble bir?4 ,x 0 ei!r sc>let or saffron col\r1 & blaz$ ) gold5 repres5tations ( ! battles ( ! giants1 or local my?s & ev5ts 9 ! hi/ory ( ,a!ns4#cbe ,! art ( ! ,phrygians1 :o gave _! "n 9 ,rome to all gold5 ?read-"w1 has come d[n to u ?r\gh ! classic auriphrygium & ! orphreys ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,semp] ?9ks t ! flat gold embroid]y 0 ! fir/ inv5t$4#cbf ,! ,phrygians _h atta9$ to ! utmo/ p]fection 9 tissue ornam5t :5 ! ,romans conqu]$ !m1 & f9d+ _! art cong5ial to ! gr[+ luxury ( ,rome1 !y import$ & dome/icat$ x2 bo? ! p & _! "w reta9+ _! national designation4 ,pl9y1 ignorant ( ! claims ( ! ,*9ese1 gave to ! ,phrygians ! cr$it ( be+ ! inv5tors ( all embroid]y4#cbg ,! g>m5ts !y ?us decorat$ 7 call$ phrygion1 & ! "w itself opus ,phrygium4 ,! t]m auriphrygium1 at fir/ giv5 to "w 9 gold only1 0 9 "t appli$ to all embroid]y t admitt$ gold into its composition2 & h5ce ! ,engli% m$ival t]m1 orphreys4 ,all ! gold /it*es n[ call$ pass+ came f ,phrygia2 ,semp] attributes all ! mosaic /it*es to ! ,phrygians1 call+ !m opus ,phrygionium4#cbh ,gold /it*es are spl5didly exemplifi$ 9 ! embroid]$ mantle ( ,/4 ,/eph51 ( ! n9? c5tury4 ,! only some:at e>li] piece ( m$ival gold embroid]y ) :i* ,i am acqua9t$ is ! dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne 9 ! ,vatican1 ri*ly embroid]$ 9 f9e gold ?read2 & ! mantle ( ! ,emp]or ,h5ry ,,ii4 9 ! ,museum at ,muni*1 work$ by 8 ,empress ,kunigunda1 :o appe>s to h be5 some:at p>simoni\s 9 h] use ( ! preci\s mat]ial4 ,almo/ all ecclesia/ical & royal anci5t embroid]ies 7 illum9at$ ) gold5 gr\nds--gold5 outl9es or gold5 flat embroid]ies4 ,lat] /ill1 rais$ gold ?read "w has imitat$ gilt c>v+s or goldsmi?s' jewell]y2 & we feel t x 0 at once remov$ f its place z embroid]y1 & became an elaborate imitation ( :at %\ld belong to ano!r craft4#cbi ,su* deviations f ! prop] (fice & motive ( ne$lework are s dang]\sly ne> to bad /yle & bad ta/e1 t !y always & inevitably h fall5 into disrepute4 ,"p #d4 ,,opus ,,pulv9>ium 7or cu%ion "w74 ,?is opus pulv9>ium is n only to be f\nd 9 ,ori5tal "w1 b x has also surviv$ 9 a v few fragm5ts f ,egypt4#ccj ,"o ( ^!1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is work$ on canvas1 9 wool & flax2 ano!r 9 a :ite %9+ ?read1 resembl+ asbe/os1 on l95 or f9e canvas4 ,!y are regul> canvas or cross /it*es1 & !re=e1 "u m$ival nom5clature1 w\ld be class$ z opus pulv9>ium4 ,?is "n mu/ include all /it*es 9 gold1 silk1 & wool1 :e!r ,phrygian1 ,egyptian1 or ,babylonian 9 _! orig91 except+ ! flat & lace /it*es 7plate #da74 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #da4 ,,mosaic ,,/it*es4 #a4 ,italian ,patt]n1 sixte5? c5tury4 ,f ,frida ,lipp]heide's ,mu/]bu*4 #b4 ,sc&9avian4 ,bock1 i4 taf4 xi4 #c4 ,egyptian4 ,f ,aub]ville's ,tissus1 p4 #a4 ,semp]'s t]m1 mosaic /it*es1 is a good "o1 z x cov]s all t are relegat$ into patt]ns 9 small squ>e spaces1 c\nt$ by ! ?reads ( ! textile on :i* !y are laid4#cca ,he believes t ! mosaic patt]ns & cross /it*es 9 ne$lework prec$$ ! tesselat$ pavem5ts1 & =m$ _! fir/ motive1 ?\gh ! /it* n[ ref]s itself back to ! mosaic1 at lea/ 9 "n4 ,x is rem>kable t 9 ,*aldea & ,assyria !re /ill exi/ "s ru9$ walls1 :i* are adorn$ ) pila/]s1 panels1 & o!r ar*itectural =ms1 cov]$ ) "s sort ( encau/ic1 imitat+ textile patt]ns4#ccb ,! effect is produc$ by means ( a k9d ( mosaic "w ( small nails or w$ges ( bak$ clay1 ) *9a or glaz$ col\r$ heads4 ,^! are inlaid into ! unbak$ clay or e>?1 ( :i* ! walls are con/ruct$1 & :ile b9d+ x toge!r1 give ! effect ( ! surface be+ hung ) a mat]ial :i* has a patt]n work$ all ov] 9 cross /it*4 ,! ,*9ese1 ! ,*aldeans1 & ! ,assyrians long cont9u$ to %[ 9 _! build+s ! tradition ( ?is /yle ( decoration4 ,9 ,egypt !re has be5 f\nd "s unf9i%$ mural pa9t+ :]e ! pla/] has be5 previ\sly prep>$ by divid+ x into small rectangul> spaces1 app>5tly on ! pr9ciple ( ! canvas gr\nd = cross /it*es4 ,! "n mosaic /it* does n int]f]e )1 or militate aga9/ ! classical appellation ( opus pulv9>ium1 :i* means %r9e "w or cu%ion /it*es4 ,^! appe> to h be5 f ! fir/ consid]$ z ! be/ suit$ = adorn+ cu%ions1 *airs1 foot/ools1 & ! b$s on :i* m5 recl9$ at _! fea/s1 z !y are firmly-set /it*es :i* w /& friction4 ,mo/ ( ! "w n[ done 9 ,syria1 ,turkey1 ,greece1 & ! ,pr9cipalities1 %[s diff]5t =ms ( ! mosaic /it*es2 s also does ! national ,russian "w1 :i* is ,byzant9e4 ,all ^! designs are conv5tional & mo/ly geometrical4 ,?is "w1 9 ! ,ea/1 is g5]ally ! same on bo? sides4 ,we may inf] t ! spoil anticipat$ by ,sis]a's "m1 ! g>m5ts embroid]$ on bo? sides1 fit = ! necks ( ^? :o divide ! spoil1 0 ( ?is k9d4 ,?us we see t ! opus pulv9>ium has a v respectable ance/ry2 & ?\gh x _h some:at deg5]at$ 9 ! e>ly "p ( our c5tury1 & _h langui%$ & almo/ di$ out "u ! "n ( ,b]l9 wool "w1 yet x has done good s]vice ?r\gh ! days ( m$ival art d[n to ! pres5t "t1 bo? 9 ,engl& & ?r\gh\t ,europe 7pl4 #db72 & x w probably revive & cont9ue to be g5]ally us$4 ,?\gh ! lea/ available = hi/orical or pictorial "w1 & n by any means ! be/ = fl[]-pieces 7z ! squ>5ess ( ! /it*es refuses to l5d itself to fl[+ l9es or gradations ( col\r1 unless ! /it*es are extremely f9e1 & ! "w1 9 consequ5ce1 v labori\s71 yet x f9ds its especial fitness 9 all geometrical designs4 ,x is also p>ticul>ly well suit$ to h]aldic subjects4 ,a rem>kable example ( ! use ( cross /it*es exi/s 9 ! bord]s ( ! ,syon cope1 9 :i* ! coats-(-arms are s execut$4 ,?is is ( ! ?irte5? c5tury2 & besides ^! cu%ion /it*es1 x exhibits all ^? :i* are gr\p$ 9 ! /yle call$ opus ,anglicum or ,anglicanum4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #db4 ,italian ,nun's ,"w1 f a pyx clo?1 sixte5? c5tury4 ,_m *>m+ designs = ?is k9d ( /it* may be f\nd 9 ! old ,g]man patt]n-books ( ! ,r5aissance 7,spitz5 ,mu/]b*]71 & also 9 ^? ,v5etian ,corone di ,v]tuose ,donne lately repr9t$ by ! ,v5etian publi%] ,organia4 ,^! are wor?y ( a place 9 e libr>y ( art4 ,x w\ld seem be/ to place ! *a9 /it* nam$ tamb\r 9 ?is class1 z x naturally assimilates ) ! plait$ & cross /it*es4 ,x is s call$ f ! drum-%ap$ frame ( ! la/ c5tury 9 :i* x 0 usually work$4 ,"p #e4 ,,opus ,,plum>ium 7or plumage "w74 ,! ,opus ,plum>ium is "o ( ! mo/ anci5t gr\ps1 & includes all flat /it*es1 ( :i* ! di/+ui%+ m>k is1 t !y pass ea* o!r1 ov]lap1 & bl5d toge!r4 ,/em1 twi/1 ,japanese /it*1 & long & %ort or embroid]y /it*1 belong to ?is class1 to :i* ,i propose to re/ore its orig9al title ( plumage "w4 ,! orig9 ( ! "n is mu* disput$1 b x is suppos$ to h po9t$ to a decoration ( plumage "w1 & we f9d t fea!rs h be5 an elem5t 9 arti/ic design f ! e>lie/ times4 ,!re 7 patt]ns 9 ,egyptian pa9t+ :i* c]ta9ly _h fea!rs = _! motive 7fig4 #ba1 p4 #bjh74 ,semp]1 f9d+ t birds'-sk9s 7 a recogniz$ article = trade 9 ,*9a1 #bbje ,b4,c41#ccc believes t !y 7 us$ z onlaid application = ar*itectural decoration2 & ?is is possible1 = we /ill obta9 f !nce specim5s ( "w 9 diff]5t mat]ials p>tly onlaid 9 :ole fea!rs1 :]eas sometimes ! long] ?reads ( ! fea!rs are wov5 by ! ne$le into ! gr\nd web4 ,9 ,h] ,maje/y's collection !re are "s specim5s f ,burmah--creatures resembl+ sph9xes or de=m$ *]ubim1 execut$ 9 fea!rs1 appli$ on silk & outl9$ 9 gold4 ,we h likewise f ,burmah1 9 ! ,indian ,museum1 two peacocks#ccd simil>ly work$2 ! legs & beaks are solidly rais$ 9 gold ?read2 & ! outl9es also are rais$ 9 gold1 giv+ ! appe>ance ( enamell+4 ,! cloisonn effect ( brilliant col\rs1 contra/$ & enhanc$ by ! sep>ation ( ! gold outl9es1 c be se5 to p]fection 9 specim5s ( ! beautiful ,pek9 jewell]s' "w1 :]e ! fea!rs are inlaid 9 gold ornam5ts = ! head & 9 ! h&les ( fans4 ,no?+ b gems c be m respl5d5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,fea!r patt]ns1 ,egyptian4 ,^! survivals help u to und]/& ! casual m5tion we f9d 9 classical au?ors1 ( ! works ( ! ,plum>ii1 :i* appellation 0 giv5 at la/ to all embroid]]s :o 7 n ,phrygians4#cce ,we h o!r glimpses ( ,ori5tal fea!r-"w 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ,india4#ccf ,! use ( fea!rs is common 9 ! isl&s ( ! ,pacific4 ,x is native to ! ,s&wi* isl&]s2 & ,m4 ,jules ,remy describes ! ,hawaiian royal mantle1 :i* 0 be+ con/ruct$ ( yell[ birds' fea!rs ?r\gh sev5 consecutive reigns1 & 0 valu$ 9 ,hawaii at #e1jjj1jjj francs4 ,a mantle ( ?is description is ! prop]ty ( ,lady ,brassey4 ,9 ,africa1 anci5t ,egyptian art furni%es u ) traditional fea!r patt]ns & head-dresses2 & ,pigafetta tells u ( co/umes ( birds' sk9s1 worn 9 ! k+dom ( ,congo 9 ! sixte5? c5tury = _! w>m?2 sea-birds' fea!rs be+ highly e/eem$4#ccg ,9 ,am]ica1 :]e birds are mo/ spl5did1 ! art ( ! fea!r work] 0 c>ri$ to ! greate/ p]fection4 ,x 0 f\nd !re by ! ,spani>ds1 & record$ 9 all _! writ+s = its beauty ( design & execution1 & = its great value1 equal to t ( gold & preci\s /ones4 ,?\gh n[ look$ d[n ^u1 z be+ a semi-b>b>\s /yle ( decoration1 because x exi/s no long] except 9 semi-b>b>\s c\ntries1 we mu/ consid] fea!r "w z a relic ( a pa/ high] civilization :i* has di$ out1 r ?an simply z ! ef=t ( ! savage to deck himself 9 ! brighte/ col\rs atta9able4 ,fea!r-"w is a lo/ art1 b ! "n ( opus plum>ium rema9s1 & proves t x 0 /ill recogniz$ z su* 9 ! days ( ,roman luxury4 ,! "n surviv$ :5 ! practice 0 all b =gott5 9 ,europe1#cch & ! art itself disus$1 probably1 because ! birds ( our cont95t r>ely h any lovely plumage to tempt ! eye4 ,b ! glory ( fea!r-"w 0 f\nd aga9 9 ,mexico & ,p]u1 & ! surr\nd+ nations1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury--prais$1 exalt$1 demoraliz$1 & cru%$ out by ! cruelties ( conque/4 ,! ,spani>ds at fir/ br\ght home beautiful g>m5ts & hang+s1 repres5t+ gods & h]oes1 all work$ 9 fea!rs4#cci ,"u _! rule ! natives produc$ pictures agreeable to ! ta/e ( _! ma/]s4 ,pope ,sixtus ,v4 accept$ a head ( ,/4 ,francis1 :i* _h be5 execut$ by "o ( ! able/ ( ! amantecas 7! "n = an arti/ 9 fea!rs74 ,sixtus 0 /ruck ) surprise & admiration at ! beauty & arti/ic clev]ness ( ! "w1 &1 until he _h t\*$ & exam9$ x closely1 w\ld n believe t plumage 0 ! only mat]ial us$4 ,!re are beautiful hang+s & b$ furniture at ,moritzburg1 ne> ,dresd51 said to h belong$ to ,montezuma4 ,!y 7 giv5 to ,augu/us ! ,/rong1 ,k+ ( ,pol&1 by a k+ ( ,spa94 ,9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & lat]1 fea!r "w 0 /ill an art 9 ,mexico1 ! conv5ts cont9u+ to pres]ve its traditions4 ,bu/am5te says t ?is indu/ry 0 /ill 9 op]ation 9 ! beg9n+ ( our c5tury4 ,! ,mexican ,museum pres]ves specim5s ( ! la/ ?ree hundr$ ye>s1 f ! "t ( ! conque/ ( ,mexico4 ,!re is 9 ! ,cluny ,museum1 9 ,p>is1 a beautiful tripty*1 evid5tly ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,x is work$ 9 fea!rs1 ) delicate outl9es 9 f9e gold ?read4 ,no?+ c exce$ ! t5d]ness & h>mony ( ! col\r+ 9 %ades ( blue1 & w>m & cool br[n t9ts4 ,?is is probably a survival ( t lo/ art ( ,mexico :i* 0 c>ri$ on 9 _! conv5ts1 & may h be5 a copy ( a treasur$ relic ( ,european art4 ,among ! few notewor?y specim5s t h surviv$1 is ! mitre ( ,/4 ,c>lo ,borromeo at ,milan1 describ$ by ,m4 ,f4 ,d5is z be+ bo? arti/ic & beautiful4 ,he tells u 9 8 ,app5dix t ev5 n[1 a tissue ( fea!rs is wov5 9 ,france1 z s(t & flexible z a silk damask2 & rivall+ ! ,mexican sc>let fea!r fabric1 :i* ! ,spani>ds admir$ s greatly4 ,he also speaks ( ! inlaid fea!r "w1 inv5t$ by ,m4 ,le ,normant ( ,r\51 9 ! la/ c5tury1 & aft]w>ds cont9u$ 9 ,p>is by 8 ,engli% pupil1 ,mr4 ,levet1 :o sold two ( 8 works to ! !n ,duke ( ,le$s1 9 #agce4 ,! fir/ is a vase ( fl[]s1 ! second a peacock1 design$ by ,m4 ,oudry 7pe9tre du ,roi74 ,bo? ( ^!1 fram$ z scre5s1 are n[ at ,hornby ,ca/le4 ,un=tunately fea!rs are1 by _! nature1 mo/ attractive to t greate/ de/roy]1 next to ,attila--! mo?4 ,ghirl&ajo call$ mosaic 9 m>ble & glass1 pa9t+ = et]nity2 we may call fea!r "w1 pa9t+ = a day4 ,f ! essays ( ,m4 ,f]d9& ,d5is1#cdj mu* may be le>n$ ( ! arte plum>ia ( ! ,mexicans & _! neighb\rs ( ,brazil1 ,guatemala1 ,p]u1 & ,yucatan1 & ! l& ( ! ,zapotecas1 c41 :]e x 0 also cultivat$4 ,he says t _! civilization is s my/]i\s t we h z yet no means ( judg+ :5ce came _! art4 ,f]gusson sugge/s ! simil>ity betwe5 ,c5tral ,asian & ,c5tral ,am]ican art1 bo? 9 ar*itectural =ms & pla/ic & sculptur$ rema9s4 ,he ?9ks t its tradition 0 transmitt$ f ,asia to ,am]ica 9 ! ?ird & f\r? c5turies ( our era4 ,if s1 x 0 an unlucky mom5t = ! recipi5ts1 z ! art ( ,asia1 z well z t ( ,europe1 0 !n at its l[e/ & mo/ debas$ phase2 p]haps1 h[ev]1 ! m fit = ! f]tilization ( t ( a p]fectly b>b>\s p4 ,!re is some?+ fasc9at+ 9 ! sugge/ions on ?is subject 9 ,mr4 ,donelly's ,atlantis2 b :5 conjecture is only f\nd$ on tradition1 & )\t pro(1 we mu/ n take x into s]i\s consid]ation4 ,hav+ prov$ ! univ]sal use ( fea!rs1 x is n difficult to appreciate ! causes :i* sugge/$ ev]y:]e ! transf] ( ?is decorative art to ano!r craft1 employ+ less p]i%able mat]ials4 ,embroid]y probably foll[$ x closely & absorb$ x ?r\gh\t ,asia & 9 ,egypt2 & ! survivals n[ are only an accid5tal specim51 a tradition1 & a "n4#cda ,! "n ,plum>ii1 = ! embroid]ies1 is ?us fully acc\nt$ =1 & we ne$ seek no fur!r elucidation4 ,x 0 commonly us$ 9 classical ,roman times4 ,opus plum>ium seems to h become ! legitimate t]m = all ne$lework4 ,! ,plum>ii 7 ! embroid]]s1 :e!r _! "w 0 9 wool1 or ?read1 or 9 silk 7at a lat] p]iod71#cdb ) or )\t admixture ( gold or silv] 7z ! ,arg5t>ii 7 ! jewell]s74 ,! article on ! ^w plum>ius 9 ,h(fman's ,lexicon1#cdc aft] describ+ two k9ds ( ,plum>ii1 ,phrygians & ,babylonians1 proce$s to say1 ,^! latt]1 :o wove g>m5ts & hang+s ( v>i\s col\rs1 7 call$ ',plum>ii2' b ?\gh ?is "n 0 at fir/ conf9$ to craftsm5 :o wove patt]ns 9 ! %ape ( fea!rs1 9 c\rse ( "t ! "n 0 ext5d$ to ^? arti/s :o1 ) ! ne$le or by pa9t+1 embelli%$ robes4#cdd ,! opus plum>ium includ$1 z ,i be=e said1 all flat /it*es2 & ,i repeat t fea!r application 0 c]ta9ly its fir/ motive2 & next came ! /it*es t convey$ ! same desir$ effect1 ?\gh a new mat]ial 0 employ$1 fitt$ = ! ne$le1 :i*1 hav+ s]v$ its appr5tice%ip 9 pla9 "w1 n[ came to ! front z a decorative ag5t4 ,pa9t+ ) ! ne$le began ) an attempt to model ) x2 ! lay ( /it*es be+ s arrang$ z to give ! :ole effect ( light & %ad[1 s z to del9eate ! =ms )\t *ang+ ! %ades ( ! mat]ial us$4 ,i give on ! opposite page "s ,japanese birds1 :i* w expla9 :at ,i mean4 ,! /it*es are s intellig5tly plac$ z absolutely to give ! =ms ( ! birds imitat$4 ,!y repres5t plumage1 & a m arti/ic repres5tation _c be imag9$4 7,pl4 #dc47 ,! same /it* :i* we f9d prevail+ 9 ,*9a & ,japan z plumage "w1 is employ$ 9 embroid]+ fl[]s4 ,"h sat91 /em1 & plumage /it*es are bl5d$ toge!r1 & excell5t decorative effects are produc$2 b ! texture ( fl[]s is n to be imitat$1 z is t ( ! plumage ( birds4 ,sat9 /it* is a m re/rict$ =m ( plumage /it*2 & /em is ano!r v>iety ( ^! flat /it*es1 v useful 9 its place4 ,i !re=e h assign$ ! "n ( plumage /it* to t hi!rto call$ embroid]y or long & %ort /it*es2 & ,i give ! t]m plumage "w to include all ! flat /it*es4 ,practically1 x is all[$ t ^! flat /it*es1 especially ! plumage /it*1 give mo/ scope = fre$om 9 ne$lework1 z !y are laid on at once1 & accord+ to ! inspiration ( ! work]1 & may cov] ! outl9e & efface x4 ,! /it*es are n c\nt$1 & h m ( ! nature ( t\* ?an any o!rs1 z _! l5g?1 ?ickness1 & clos5ess may be v>i$ at w4 ,! arti/'s design ?us admits ( int]pretation accord+ to ! ta/e & feel+ ( ! ne$lewoman4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #dc4 ,japanese ,opus ,plum>ium4 ,"p #f4 ,,opus ,,consutum 7or cut "w74 ,?is is ,pat*work1 or ,appliqu 7inlaid & onlaid74 ,vas>i calls x ,di commesso1 & says t ,botticelli inv5t$ x = ! use ( ,*ur* bann]s1 z be+ mu* m effective ?an any o!r /yle ( "w1 or ev5 ?an pa9t+1 z ! outl9es rema9$ firm 7non si /+uano71 & 7 n affect$ by ! wea!r 7z 9 pa9t$ clo?s7 & 7 visible on bo? sides ( ! bann]4 ,botticelli drew ) 8 own h& ! balda*9o ( ,or ,san ,mi*ele1 & ! embroid]ies on a frieze c>ri$ 9 procession by ! monks ( ,santa ,m>ia ,novella2 he di$ #aeae4 ,p]haps he may h reviv$ ! art ( application 9 8 own day4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 mu* e>li] examples ( pat*work1 ( :i* ! fir/ & mo/ rem>kable is ! ,egyptian fun]al t5t ( ,que5 ,isi-em-,kheb1 "m-9-law ( ,%i%ak1 :o besieg$ & took ,j]usalem ?ree or f\r ye>s aft] ! dea? ( ,solomon1 ,b4,c4 #ihj4 ,x may be describ$ z a mosaic1 or pat*work ( prodigi\s size1 made ( ?\s&s ( pieces ( gazelles' sk9s1 dy$1 & neatly sewn toge!r ) ?reads ( col\r to mat*1 resembl+ ! /it*+ ( a glove1 ! out] edges b\nd ) a cord ( twi/$ p9k lea!r1 sewn on ) /\t p9k ?read 7pl4 #dd74 ,! col\rs are describ$ z be+ wond]fully pres]v$1 :5 x is rememb]$ t !y are ne>ly z old z ! ,trojan ,w>2 ?\gh p]haps _! pres]vation is less surpris+ ?an t ! fl[]s wrea!d ab\t sev]al royal mummies ( ! same p]iod %\ld h %[n _! col\rs & =ms :5 ! cases 7 fir/ op5$1 s z to be recogniz$ z blue l>kspur1 yell[ mimosa1 & a r$ ,abyss9ian fl[]1 mass$ closely toge!r on ! f\ndation ( a /rong leaf cut 9 zigzags4 ,among ! fl[]s lay a dead wasp1 ^: wor?less little =m & id5tity 7 z p]fectly pres]v$ z ^? ( ! mighty mon>* on ^: bosom x _h complet$ its %ort exi/5ce4 ,! t5t itself consi/s ( a c5tre or flat top1 divid$ d[n ! middle1 & cov]$ ov] "o half ) p9k & yell[ rosettes on a blue gr\nd2 on ! o!r half are six l>ge vultures1 ea* surr\nd$ ) a hi]oglyphic text :i* is really an epitaph4 ,! side flaps are adorn$ fir/ ) "s n>r[ b&s ( col\r2 !n ) a fr+e patt]n2 !n ) a r[ ( broad panels1 r$1 gre51 & yell[1 ) a device or picture & inscription 9 ! two o!r col\rs2 on ?is bord] !re are kneel+ gazelles1 ea* ) a p9k ,abyss9ian lotus blossom hang+ to its coll>4 ,! re/ ( ! side flaps & ! :ole ( ! front & back flaps are compos$ ( l>ge squ>es1 alt]nately p9k & gre54 ,?is1 = its antiquity1 its /yle1 its /it*]y1 mat]ials1 & col\rs1 is a mo/ int]e/+ "w ( e>ly art1 & an example ( ! p]fection to :i* x _h atta9$4 ,x is rem>kable h[ mu* v>iety ( effect has be5 produc$ ) only f\r col\rs1 by ! arti/ic mann] ( plac+ & contra/+ !m4 ,to our m advanc$ ta/e1 h[ev]1 ! :ole effect ( ! contra/+ col\rs is inh>moni\s & gaudy1 ?\gh c]ta9ly /rik+ & typical4#cde ,ano!r piece ( ,egyptian application1 f ! ,museum at ,tur91 is a pretty leaf patt]n cut out 9 r$ /uff1 laid on a :ite gr\nd1 & work$ d[n ) a d>k] outl9e ( ! same col\r4#cdf ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,piece ( appliqu 9 r$ /uff & r$ outl9es f ,egypt4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #dd4 ,fun]al ,t5t ( ,isi-em-,kheb4 ,f ,villi]s ,/u>t's ,fun]al ,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que54 ,we h an in/ance ( anci5t application ( ab\t #fjj ye>s lat]1 ,greek 9 its beauty ( design & execution4 ,alas6 we c only asc]ta91 f tatt]$ fragm5ts tak5 out ( a tomb 9 ! ,crimea1 t x 0 p>sem ) figures on horseback or 9 *>iots4 ,! bord] is v beautiful4 ,comp>e ! fragm5ts ( :i* we h obta9$ a copy ) ! mantle ( ,demet]1 f a ,greek vase1 & y w p]ceive h[ ! /yles correspond 7,pl4 #af1 ,fig4 #bc74 ,! gr\nd mat]ial is ( ! f9e/ wov5 wool1 ( a deep violet or purple col\r1 enri*$ ) application ( ano!r f9e wooll5 fabric ( a mo/ brilliant gre51 work$ d[n1 outl9$ & embroid]$ 9 :ite1 black1 & gold-col\r$ wool1 app>5tly 9 /em /it*es4#cdg ,! accompany+ illu/ration gives ! effect & g5]al design ( ! out] bord] only1 9 :i* ! appli$ leaf is work$ d[n 9 r$1 gold1 & :ite4 ,x is mu* to be regrett$ t ! c5tre ( ! mantle is s tatt]$ & discol\r$ t x is impossible to d m ?an asc]ta9 t ! design t is embroid]$ on x consi/s ( figures on horseback or 9 *>iots1 9 spirit$ attitudes4 ,! second & broad] bord] is to be f\nd 7pl4 #ag74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,n>r[ bord] ( a ,greek mantle4 ,opus consutum _c 9 any s5se p]haps be ! "n ( a /it* or /it*es4 ,b x applies to a peculi> /yle ( embroid]y employ+ c]ta9 /it*es4 ,x is ! t]m giv5 to all "w cut out ( pla9 or embroid]$ mat]ials1 & appli$ by work+ d[n to ano!r mat]ial z gr\nd+4 ,x includes all rais$ & /uff$ application 9 silk1 wooll51 & metal ?read "w4 ,x has be5 giv5 to all "w 9 :i* ! scissors are active ag5ts1 :e!r 9 cutt+ out ! outl9es or 9 incis+ ! patt]n1 z 9 mu* ( ! l95 & musl9 embroid]ies ( our day1 n[ call$ ,madeira "w1 ( :i* a great deal 0 made 9 ! fir/ "p ( ! c5tury by ,engli% ladies :o design$ & collect$ patt]ns f ea* o!r1 & gave ! produce ( _! indu/ry z gifts to _! fri5ds = coll>s1 cuffs1 & trimm+s4#cdh ,cut "w is nam$ by ,*auc]1 & is con/antly to be f\nd 9 inv5tories f 8 "t to ! beg9n+ ( ! la/ c5tury4 ,at ,coire1 9 ! ,grisons1 is a v beautiful *asuble1 ( :i* ! orphrey is ( ! s*ool ( ! eld] ,holbe9 or ,lucas ,crana*1 appli$ & rais$ s z to =m a high relief4 ,! figures are cov]$ ) sat9 & embroid]$4 ,! *asuble itself is ( f9e ,s>ac5ic silk1 wov5 ) gold5 inscriptions 9 broad /ripes4 ,! col\rs are br[n1 crimson1 & gold4 ,illu/ration3 ,wall ,pila/]s ,appliqu ,cut "w1 ,italian ,,xvi4 ,c5try ,prop]ty ( ,c\ntess ,som]s ,9 ! lat] ,middle ,ages1 a good deal ( ?is "w 0 execut$ 9 ,g]many = wall hang+s2 figures 7 cut out 9 diff]5t mat]ials1 & embroid]$ d[n & f9i%$ by putt+ 9 ! details 9 v>i\s /it*es4 ,z art !y are g5]ally a failure1 be+ m gaudy ?an beautiful4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is n necess>ily ! case1 = !re is at ! ,hotel ,cluny a complete suite ( hang+s ( ! "t ( ,francis ! ,fir/1 p>tly appli$ & p>tly embroid]$1 :i* are beautiful 9 design & col\r+1 especially ! fruit & trophies 9 ! bord]s4 ,9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies cut "w 0 mu* employ$ 9 ,italy = l>ge fl[]$ arabesque designs1 commonly 9 velvet or silk1 mak+ column> wall hang+s1 :i* are (t5 v effective2 giv+ ! rooms an ar*itectural decoration1 )\t int]f]+ ) ! arrangem5t ( works ( art1 pictures1 /atues & cab9ets1 plac$ 9 front ( !m4 ,besides1 x 0 suppos$ t ! utmo/ effect ( ri*ness 0 ?us accompli%$ ) ! lea/ lab\r1 & v l>ge spaces & v high walls cov]$1 )\t los+ any?+ ( beauty by di/ance1 z mu/ be ! case :5 ! "w's highe/ m]it is 9 ! delicacy ( ! /it*es & ! details ( =m4 7,pl4 #de47 ,! ,e>l ( ,beau*amp has inh]it$ a mo/ beautiful suite ( hang+s ( appliqu "w2 silks ( _m k9ds are laid on a :ite brocade gr\nd ) e possible v>iety ( /it*1 =m+ ri*ly & gracefully design$ patt]ns2 & %[+ to :at cut "w c aspire4 ,a great deal ( opus consutum has be5 done 9 ! ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework1 9 ! way ( re/oration ( old embroid]ies4 ,"h may be se5 copies ( diff]5t models ( _m p]iods2 among/ o!r ,briti% specim5s1 "p ( a b$ at ,drumlanrig1 9 :i* ,james ,i4 slept4 ,9 ?is "w ! application is cut out1 rais$ & /uff$1 & c\*$ ) cords1 & ! :ole ?+ is z /iff1 /rong1 conv5tional1 & endur+ z if x 7 a piece ( uphol/]y t 0 c>p5t]$ ye/]day1 in/ead ( be+ ne$lework ( at lea/ #bej ye>s ago4 ,"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable l>ge works ( ?is /yle t exi/s 0 %[n 9 #ahha1 at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 dur+ ! ,spani% ,exhibition4#cdi ,x 0 ( ! k9d call$ on ! /amp4 ,?is 0 a l&scape se5 betwe5 columns wrea!d ) fl[]s & creep]s4 ,9 ! =egr\nd c\*$ a /ag1 ! size ( life--a wond]ful reproduction ( ! hide ( ! creature 9 /it*es4 ,! relief is s high t ! columns appe> to be circul> by ! %ad[s !y ?r[2 & ! /ag is /uff$ s z to be rais$ ab\t six in*es4 ,! "w is sup]b1 & causes pleasure z well z wond]2 & yet1 9 spite ( ! beauty ( ! design1 & ! ri*ness ( ! mat]ials--gold1 silv]1 silk1 & wool pr(usely us$--x is a div]g5ce f ! legitimate art ( embroid]y1 & is simply ! attempt ( ! ne$lewoman to comb9e aga9 ! arts ( sculpture & pa9t+ ) ! help ( s inadequate an implem5t z ! ne$le4 ,!re=e1 except z be+ a m>vell\s & beautiful curiosity1 x is a failure2 x is n art4#cej ,practically1 cut "w is ! be/ mode ( arriv+ at spl5did effects by unit+ ri* & v>i$ tissues4#cea ,! ,italian curiosity v5dors "k ?is well1 & (t5 cut up ! remnants & rags ( ri* /uffs1 old fad$ silks1 & scraps ( gold & silv] tissues1 & ) !m copy f9e old designs1 & sell !m z au!ntic specim5s ( su* & su* a date4 ,i 0 once reque/$ to give an op9ion z to ! date ( a curta9 bord] b\ght 9 ,italy1 & on consid]ation ,i gave ! foll[+ v]dict3 ,! design is ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 ! appli$ velvet & gold cord1 ( ! sev5te5? c5tury2 ! brocad$ silk gr\nd1 eighte5? c5tury2 ! ?read ) :i* ! :ole 0 work$--ma*9e-made silk ?read 7,engli%7--middle ( n9ete5? c5tury4 ,! :ole effect 0 excell5t1 & v antique4 ,?is art ( application is ! di/9ctive "p ( ! opus consutum1 & x is ! be/ & mo/ economical me?od = re/oration ( old embroid]ies1 ( :i* ! gr\nd+ mat]ial is g5]ally worn out long be=e ! /it*es laid ^u x4 ,mu* beautiful "w has ?us be5 rescu$ f annihilation1 & re/or$ to use f its long imprisonm5t 9 ! boxes & draw]s ( ! g>ret & /ore-room4 ,b x is cruel to transf] hi/orical or typical works1 & s puzzle ! arti/ & ! hi/orian4 ,x is s tr\blesome to embroid] on velvet or plu%1 or gold tissues1 t application is ! easie/ & mo/ effective mode ( deal+ ) ^! fabrics4#ceb ,! outl9es laid d[n 9 cord h ! be/ effect1 :ile b9d+ ! edges & secur+ !m f fray+1 & x is almo/ c]ta9 t ! eye receives mo/ pleasure1 9 flat art1 f a def9$ outl9e1 :i* satisfies x2 :]e !re are no ca/ %ad[s1 x lifts ! "w f ! backgr\nd1 & sep>at+ ! col\rs1 x enhances _! beauty4 ,x w\ld appe>1 h[ev]1 z a rule1 t ei!r black or gold metal %\ld inv>iably be employ$1 because !y d n int]f]e ) any col\r !y approa*4 ,:ite is di/ract+ & aggressive4 ,! ,greeks sometimes us$ gold col\r in/ead ( gold1 z we see 9 ! mantle f ! ,crimea already ref]r$ to2 b ?is is n ne>ly s agreeable to ! eye z pure gold4 ,a great deal ( mod]n opus consutum1 or application cut "w1 has be5 done 9 ,con/ant9ople ( late ye>s4 ,! designs 9 g5]al1 are n arti/ic2 nor are ! col\r+ & mat]ials v comm5dable4 ,! onlaid mat]ial is1 9 g5]al1 sewn d[n ) *a9 /it*es1 & cut out aft]w>ds4 ,"p #g4 ,,lace4--,,opus ,,filatorium ,,or ,,araneum4 ,mrs4 ,pallis] says t f ! e>lie/ times ! art ( lace-mak+ has be5 s mix$ up ) t ( ne$lework1 t x is impossible to ent] ^u ! "o )\t nam+ ! o!r4 ,?is is1 9 fact1 :at %e has done1 %[+ ! intimate connection betwe5 ! two 9 h] *>m+ "w on lace1 :]e mu* in=mation ab\t embroid]ies 9 g5]al1 may be f\nd 9 ! introduction4#cec ,m4 ,blanc also consid]s t !re is b a slight transition betwe5 embroid]y & guipure1 :i* he says 0 ! fir/ lace4#ced ,z all ! e>lie/ specim5s & designs = guipure 7 ,v5etian1 ! art 01 !re=e1 probably an ,italian inv5tion1 ?\gh an ,ori5tal orig9 has sometimes be5 attribut$ to x4 ,! objection to ?is la/ !ory is t we f9d no anci5t specim5s1 & no mod]n cont9uation ( su* "w 9 ! ,ea/4 ,! ^w guipure is a /umbl+-block4 ,x has be5 appli$ to _m =ms 9 ! v>y+ art ( lace-mak+2 :i* same v>iabl5ess has caus$ its nom5clature to assume ! t]ms belong+ to o!r textile arts :]e !y approa* or t\* ea* o!r1 7z 9 nett+1 fr+es1 or embroid]ies74 ,! ne>e/ approa* to laces be=e ! ?irte5? c5tury 0 m 9 ! nature ( :at we n[ call guimp4#cee ,embroid]y diff]s f lace1 9 t x is work$ on already wov5 tissues2 :]eas lace is manufactur$ at once1 bo? gr\nd & design4#cef ,b ! l9k betwe5 ! two is n miss+4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury !y work$ opus filatorium1 :i* consi/$ ( embroid]y ) ! ne$le on l951 ( :i* half ! ?reads _h be5 drawn out1 & ! rema9d] 7 work$ into a net by knott+ !m into gr\ps1 !n divid+1 & knott+ !m aga94#ceg ,!re is a piece ( "w describ$ 9 an old catalogue quot$ by ,rock4 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _h a cu%ion cov]$ ) knott$ ?read3 ,pulv9> cop]tum de albo filo nodato4 ,"h lace & embroid]y t\* ea* o!r4#ceh ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son notices "s e>ly ,egyptian "w 9 ! ,l\vre z a piece ( :ite network patt]n1 ea* me% conta9+ an irregul> cubic figure4 ,?is s\nds mu* l lace-"w4 ,x may be fairly ass]t$ t ! t]m embroid]y embraces ! craft ( lace-mak+1 z almo/ all anci5t & mu* mod]n lace is simple embroid]y1 & =m$ entirely by ! ne$le4 ,"s k9ds ( lace1 h[ev]1 are made by plait+ & twi/+ ! ?reads atta*$ to bobb9s r\nd p9s :i* are previ\sly arrang$ 9 ! holes ( a patt]n1 prick$ on p>*m5t or glaz$ pap]4#cei ,! orig9al motive & idea ( lace is a net4 ,! patt]ns call$ by ! anci5ts de fundata1 are nett$ designs me%$4 ,y w see !m con/antly 9 ,egyptian & ,greek art1 bo? 9 wall pa9t+ & textile decoration4 ,hom] speaks ( gold5 cauls1 & s does ,isaiah1#cfj z adorn+ wom5's heads4 ,!y also m5tion nets ( flax4 ,! capitals ( ! braz5 columns adorn$ ) nets ( *equ] "w 9 ,solomon's ,temple are v curi\s4#cfa ,& ! au?or ( ,lett]s f ,italy1 #aggf1 tells ( ! g>m5t ( a /atue at ,portici1 edg$ ) a bord] resembl+ f9e nett+4 ,egyptian robes ( /ate appe> to h be5 sometimes trimm$ ) an edg+ ( a texture betwe5 lace & fr+e4#cfb ,lace has be5 made ( _m mat]ials 9 _m ways4 ,we may in/ance passem5t]ie1 made ) bobb9s 7bone lace71 ) or )\t p9s1 or ) ! ne$le only1 by h&4 ,! mat]ials h be5 gold1 silv]1 silk1 ?read 7^! two la/ :ite or col\r$71 ! fibres ( plants1 & human hair4#cfc ,a lace call$ yak is made ( wool or hair4 ,bone laces 9 gold & silv]1 or ! two mix$ & int]*ang$1 are cont9ually m5tion$ 9 ! inv5tories ( ! fifte5?1 sixte5?1 & sev5te5? c5turies4 ,b$ hang+s1 *air & cu%ion cov]s1 & table clo?s 7 con/antly trimm$ ) gold & silv] bone lace1 & fr+es ( ! same4#cfd ,laces 9 col\r$ silks 7 made 9 ,spa9 & ! ,bale>ic ,isles late 9 ! la/ c5tury4#cfe ,9 #aedb1 a sumptu>y law 0 pass$ 9 ,v5ice1 =bidd+ ! metal laces embroid]$ 9 silk to be wid] ?an due dita1 i4e4 ab\t two in*es4 ,?is pat]nal int]f]5ce 9 ! details ( life is truly ,v5etian4 ,x 0 int5d$ to protect ! nobles & citiz5s f injur+ !mselves & sett+ a bad example4 ,p]haps ?is /rict rule 0 relax$ 9 fav\r ( cr[n$ heads & royal p]sonages2 = !re is at ,a%ridge1 among ! relics ( ,que5 ,elizabe?'s en=c$ visit1 a toilet-cov] ( r$ & gold /rip$ silk1 ) a trimm+ ( lace1 f\r in*es broad1 ( ,v5ice gold & silv] lace embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silk4 ,specim5s ( ^! laces are r>e1 ow+ to ! intr9sic value ( ! metal4 ,we mu/ suppose ! orig9 ( ^! gold5 trimm+s to belong to a v e>ly p]iod4 ,a piece ( gold wire lace guimp 0 lately f\nd 9 a tomb ne> ,w>eham1 & is suppos$1 ) reason1 to be ,sc&9avian4#cff ,m4 ,blanc describes lace z a treillage or network1 & says x is made 9 ?ree ways4 ,y may complete ! gr\nd fir/1 & !n "w ! patt]n ) ! ne$le4 ,?is he calls lace pure et simple2 & he consid]s t x diff]s f guipure 9 t ! latt] consi/s ( fl[]s & arabesques work$ sep>ately1 & !n connect$ ) b>s1 l9es1 or me%es4 ,?is guipure is ! second mode ( lace-mak+4#cfg ,! ?ird is by ma*9]y2 b ?is has ! inh]5t defect ( all ma*9e-made fabrics1 to a practis$ eye2 i4e4 a c]ta9 rigidity & coldness 9 ! exactly repeat$ =ms1 9 :i* ! human t\* is want+4 ,x is curi\s h[ 9 art1 ev5 a p5tim5to is valuable1 recall+ ! h& t err$ z well z creat$2 ! att5tion t /ray$1 or reconsid]$ ! design4#cfh ,m4 ,blanc1 speak+ ( ! beauty ( po9t d',al5on1 praises x especially z be+ entirely ne$lework4 ,he names ! diff]5t modes ( lace-mak+1 & judges _! m]its4 ,( ne$le-made lace he says3 ,& ! value ( ?is lace n only arises f its repres5t+ a consid]able am\nt ( lab\r1 b also because no?+ c replace 9 human e/imation ! fabrics produc$ by a man's1 & /ill less by a woman's h&icraft4 ,h[ev] ! h& may h be5 re/ra9$ by ! necessity ( fai?fully foll[+1 on gre5 p>*m5t1 ! designs imag9$ & trac$ by ano!r p]son1 !re is always1 ev5 9 copy+ an outl9e1 an individuality1 an imp]ceptible deviation to ! "r or to ! left1 above or bel[ ! trac+1 :i* impresses on ! design ! acc5t ( /r5g? or weakness1 ( indecision or det]m9ation4#cfi ,i w\ld add1 ( intellig5ce or /upidity2 ( k or ignorance4 ,?is is n ! fir/ "t1 & w c]ta9ly n be ! la/1 t ,i %all h s\ght to impress on ! ne$lewoman ! fact t h] individuality _c fail to be /rongly m>k$ 9 h] "w2 & ,i w\ld urge h] to c>ry out ! sugge/ions t h] exp]i5ce & h] ta/e af=d h]1 :ile seek+ to r5d] fai?fully ! orig9al motive ( ! design]4 ,9 lace-mak+1 z 9 all art1 ! int]e/ & ! life1 z x 71 is imp>t$ to ea* specim5 by ! att5tion & ?\ght be/[$ ^u x4 ,mrs4 ,pallis] %[s u1 by h] beautiful illu/rations1 h[ mu* v>iety may be giv5 to designs = lace-mak+1 :i* h *ang$ ) ea* p]iod ( contempor>y art1 & are m>k$ly di/9ctive ( _! nationalities4 ,mr4 ,a4 ,cole's lectures on lace1 8 volume ( photographs1 & ,m4 ,segu9's valuable "w1 are full ( in=mation4 ,m4 ,urbani de ,ghelt('s ,te*nical ,hi/ory ( ,v5etian ,laces1 translat$ into ,engli% by ,lady ,lay>d1 is a beautiful little book & a wor?y imitation ( ! anci5t lace-books ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies4#cgj ,! subject has be5 s ?or\ghly discuss$ by adepts 9 connection ) its revival z a local indu/ry 9 its orig9al cradle1 t ,i w conf9e myself to a few obs]vations on its hi/ory & its place 9 decorative art4 ,fr+es1 ,knott+1 ,nett+1 ,knitt+1 ,cro*et1 ,tatt+1 & ,lace-mak+1 are all p>ts ( ! same bran* ( ornam5tal ne$lework4 ,!y are all trimm+s1 9 ! s5se ( be+ decorative edges to m solid mat]ials4 ,!y are n available z cov]+s = w>m? or dec5cy2 b !y s]ve to give ! grace ( my/]y to ! object !y drape or veil4 ,!y s(t5 ! outl9es & ! col\rs b5ea? !m1 :ile !y p]mit !m to peep ?r\gh _! me%es4 ,!y are h>dly to be includ$ 9 :at is call$ high art1 hav+ m aff9ity ) grace1 ref9em5t & coquetry1 ?an ) /hetic culture or noble ?\ght4 ,?is t5d5cy 9 lace "w may be ! reason t ! mascul9e m9d does n1 9 g5]al1 appreciate ^! lovely textures1 b r despises !m 7ev5 :5 ! designs are beautiful & +5i\s71 z be+ flimsy & defici5t 9 hone/ int5tion2 :]eas wom5 h always greatly priz$ !m = _! delicacy & ref9em5t1 & _! great value1 on acc\nt ( ! "t1 tr\ble1 & eyesight exp5d$ ^u !m4 ,_! k ( /it*es also enables !m to appreciate _! v>iety1 & ! ta/e %[n 9 _! selection & arrangem5t = c>ry+ out ea* design4 ,lace /it*es are almo/ innum]able4#cga ,upw>ds ( a hundr$ are nam$1 & _! v>iations are endless4 ,b a volume w\ld n suffice u = ent]+ into ! details ( ! craft2 _m ( its /it*es h be5 import$ into embroid]ies 9 gold1 silk1 & crewels2 & su* adaptations are always all[able1 provid$ ! effect is good4 ,we h e reason to believe t ! claims ( ,v5ice z ! fir/ & orig9al s*ool ( lace-mak+ h be5 satisfactorily prov$4#cgb ,g5oa1 ,flor5ce1 ,milan1 especially ! la/1#cgc foll[$ suit4 ,g]many1 ,france1#cgd & ,spa9 soon />t$ _! s*ools2 b ,lady ,lay>d believes t ,spa9 receiv$ all h] inspiration & ! great] "p ( h] laces f ,v5ice1 :i* likewise s5t tea*]s to ,france & to ,brussels--or r1 we may say1 _h _m fir/-class workwom5 decoy$ f h] manufactories to assi/ 9 />t+ rival indu/ries 9 o!r c\ntries4#cge ,! fir/ patt]n-books 7 pr9t$ 9 ,v5ice 9 ! sixte5? c5tury2 & ^! ,corone di belle e virtuose donne1 z !y are sometimes entitl$1#cgf 7 imitat$ 9 ,france & ,g]many4 ,v5ice 0 pr\d ( h] indu/ry1 & ( ! noble ladies :o fo/]$ x4 ,x is record$ 9 ! ,virt 9 ,giocco ( ,giovanna ,palazzi t ,giovanna ,d&olo1 or la ,d&ola1 7wife ( ! ,doge ,malapi]o17 0 ! fir/ patroness ( ,v5ice laces4 ,%e also fo/]$ ! art ( pr9t+ 9 ,v5ice1 & is spok5 ( z a pr9cipessa di gran' spirito1 ne di private =tune1 & h] memory is *]i%$ 9 connection ) ^! pro(s ( h] patriotism4 ,we he> also t ,moros9 or ,m>os91 wife ( ! ,doge ,m>9 ,grimani1 patroniz$ ,v5etian lace-mak+4 ,h] =ewoman1 or mae/ra1 0 a c]ta9 ,catt9a ,g>d91 & ?r\gh h] ! art 0 settl$ at ,burano1 :]e x has be5 s lately reviv$4 ,at ! ,ca!dral ( ,burano1 is kept 9 ! sacri/y1 p]haps ! f9e/ exi/+ piece ( arti/ic lace ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,x conta9s _m gr\ps ( figures f ! hi/ory ( our ,"l1 beautiful bo? 9 design & execution1 work$ 9 ,punti ,fogliami1 & fill$ 9 ) exquisite trac]y4 ,?is 0 ! bord] ( an antip5dium4 ,mrs4 ,pallis] lam5ts ! ext9ction ( ! art 9 ,v5ice1 & says t b "o woman ( ! old craft _h surviv$2 b h] elegy 0 premature1 z t old woman1 by "n ,c5cia ,sc>p>iola1 has liv$ to see hundr$s ( girls at ,burano reviv+ all ! old traditions1 hav+ le>nt f h] ! secrets ( ! me/i]e1 or my/]y4 ,"u ! patronage ( ! ,pr9cess ,m>gh]ita1 n[ ,que5 ( ,italy1 & ) ! active help & sup]9t5d5ce ( ,c\ntess ,adriana ,m>cello & ,pr9cess ,giovanelli1 mo/ beautiful laces are n[ made 9 e old po9t1 ,fr5* & ,flemi%1 z well z ,v5etian4 ,pezzi1 m]li1 & m]letti are execut$ 9 ! diff]5t /yles :i* include all lace-mak+1 & ( :i* we "h give a li/ f ,m4 de ,ghelt('s book3-- ,net lace4 ,cut lace4 ,op5 lace4 ,fl[]$ lace4 ,knott$ lace4 ,d>n+ or squ>e nett+4 ,v5ice po9t4 ,burano po9t4 ,drawn lace4#cgg ,embroid]$ l954#cgh ,! price ( ^! laces is v high1 b n beyond _! value :5 we consid] ! va/ am\nt ( skill$ lab\r be/[$ on !m4 ,we are (t5 told t old lace is *eap] ?an new1 z an absurd fact1 because ! antiquity ( lace is suppos$ to add to its value4 ,yes1 b pr9cipally z an object ( ar*ological int]e/2 :]eas t :i* is be+ made n[ is support+ by its daily wage ! ne$lewoman & h] family1 & p]haps provid+ = h] old age2 & z ! /ra9 on ! eye is v heavy1 _m lace-work]s e>ly 9 life lose _! sight1 at lea/ = all ! purposes ( _! craft4#cgi ,= ^! reasons we _c say t ! prices requir$ = su* luxuri\s trimm+s are unreasonable4 ,zanon da ,ud9e gives u an idea ( h[ co/ly !y 7 9 old times4 ,he says t ,giuseppe ,b]>di1 a lace m]*ant 9 ,v5ice1 made a pr(it ( #ge1jjj francs on a commission = a set ( lace b$-hang+s = ! w$d+ ( ,joseph ,,ii41 ,emp]or ( ,g]many1 :i* proves ! high prices paid = ! new laces ( _! day4 ,blond laces1 :i* take _! turn occasionally z fa%ionable trimm+s1 veils1 & ,spani% mantillas1 are s call$ f _! orig9al ,v5etian "n1 m]letti biondi1 pale laces4 ,de ,ghelt( d]ives ?is appellation f ! celebrat$ coll> ( ,l\is ,quatorze1 & fancies x 0 made ( ! fair hair ( ! work]s2 b ?is is only vague conjecture4 ,! t]m 0 appli$ 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury to laces 9 silk1 gold1 & silv]--nev] to ?read laces4 ,i confess ,i d n f9d ! reason = ! "n1 b accept ,de ,ghelt('s in=mation t x 0 giv5 by ! au?ority ( ! magi/rates ( ,m]canzia 9 #agei4 ,?is is b a v slight sket* ( ! hi/ory ( lace4 ,v5ice be+ its bir?place1 & likewise ! busy sc5e ( its rehabilitation1 ,i h l+]$ ov] its s*ool1 & left b little space = ! discussion ( ^? ( ,spa91 ,fl&]s1 ,belgium1 & ,france4 ,b ^! h be5 ?or\ghly inve/igat$1 & _! individual m]its are well appreciat$1 bo? z antique & mod]n dress decoration4 ,i h already said t ! lace s*ools 9 ,france 7 in/itut$ by ,colb]t1 :o plac$ "o at ,aux]re1 "u ! especial c>e ( 8 bro!r1 ! bi%op ( t city4 ,l\is ,quatorze made x "o ( 8 spl5did caprices1 & n only set ! example1 b =c$ ! fa%ion into ?is luxuri\s & extravagant *annel4 ,9 ,spa91 lace 0 made to look its be/ by be+ worn /ret*$ ov] ! great hoops ( ! ,gu>d-,infante2 & ! fa%ion spread all ov] ,europe4 ,! :ite laces1 resembl+ c>v$ ivory or ^? 9 gold & silv]1 :i* rem9d "o ( solid jewell]s' "w1 :5 spread ov] ! surface ( ^! =tifi$ outworks1 gu>d+ f all approa* ! p]sons ( ! ,infantas ( ,spa91 assume 9 ! portraits by ,velasquez1 a dignity :i* is 9 keep+ ) _! value4 ,! spl5did designs %[ brilliantly on a backgr\nd ( sc>let1 rose col\r1 or black silk2 & t :i*1 hang+ loosely1 looks only tawdry & ragg$1 _h a magnific5t effect :5 ?us display$4 ,= ecclesia/ical purposes1 ^! gr& solid laces seem mo/ appropriate1 be+ effective 9 l>ge spaces1 & easily se5 at a di/ance1 hang+ ov] ! edge ( ! alt>1 z a bord] to ! l95 clo?s1 or f9i%+ ! :ite alb ( ! (ficiat+ prie/4 ,"o _c b agree ) ,m4 ,blanc1 :o po9ts out t ea* piece ( lace _h its int5tion1 & t a fa%ionable ball-dress trimm$ ) ! edg+ ( an antique alt>-clo? 9 loops1 is 9 false ta/e1 to say no worse ( ! misappropriation4 ,?\gh we h _h no s*ools ( lace 9 ,engl& 7unless we c call our imitative indu/ries s*ools71 we h sampl]s ( ! "t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & d[n to ! middle ( ! la/ c5tury1 %[+ t drawn lace & cut lace 7 regul>ly taught1 probably z an accompli%m5t1 by ,italians4 ,! laces ( ,devon%ire & ! ,isle ( ,wight 7call$ ,honiton7 =m a gr\p totally di/9ct f ^? ( ,nor?ampton%ire1 ,b$=d%ire1 & ,ox=d%ire1 :i* la/ are v simple cu%ion bobb9-laces4 ,f ! sixte5? c5tury ,engli% ladies h1 = _! amusem5t1 made cut laces4 ,/ill1 we mu/ confess we h no national /yle ( lace1 & ! only endur+ ones h be5 ^? ( ,france & ,belgium1 :i* h always kept ! lead s9ce _! e/abli%m5t1 ?\gh fluctuat+ 9 design ) ! v>y+ fa%ions ( ea* epo*4 ,p]haps ! reason ( _! longevity is t !y h foll[$ always ! ta/e ( _! day4 ,t ( our "t be+ decid$ly ar*ological1 anci5t patt]ns are n[ ! mo/ successful4 ,!re is a k9d ( embroid]y d>n$-"w1 call$ ,lim]ick lace1 :i* is said to be only made 9 ,irel&1 & be+ p>tly ma*9e-made1 is n pure lace1 & !re=e little e/eem$4 ,v f9e ?read laces h be5 produc$ at ,iri% "w s*ools2 b no comm]cial result has foll[$4 ,clev] imitations ( ,v5ice po9t h come f ,irel& lately1 call$ rais$ cro*et4 ,?is is a novelty1 & x is extremely f9e & beautiful "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #df4 ,egyptian ,gobel9s1 ,wov5 & ,embroid]$4 ,! ,exhibition ( ,iri% ,lace 9 ,london 7,june1 #ahhc71 %[s h[ widespread h be5 ! ef=ts ( ,iri% ladies to employ ! peculi> g5ius ( ! si/] isl& = delicate "w ) ! ne$le1 :i* has always be5 %[n 9 _! beautiful embroid]ies on musl9 & cambric4 ,x appe>s t e k9d ( lace1 except1 p]haps1 ,brussels po9t1 has be5 made 9 ,irel& )9 ! la/ #ahj ye>s2 b z 9 ea* case ! ef=t 0 always t ( "o individual woman1 ! s*ool fell away :5 %e di$4 ,! names ( ^! ladies are n[ wor?ily record$ 9 ! (ficial catalogue ( ! exhibition1 ) photographs ( ! specim5s produc$ "u _! sup]9t5d5ce & c>e4 ,p]haps a p]man5t indu/ry may cr[n1 h[ev] late1 _! ex]tions to help ! wom5 ( ,irel&4 ,"p #h4 ,,tape/ry--,,opus ,,pect9eum4 ,x is necess>y to def9e precisely :at is meant by ! ^w tape/ry4#chj ,! t]m has be5 appli$ to all hang+s1 & s caus$ confusion betwe5 ^? t are embroid]$ ) a design1 on a pla9 or brocad$ wov5 mat]ial1 & ^? :i* are inwov5 ) ! design f ! fir/4#cha ,?is latt] 0 call$ 9 classical language1 opus pect9eum1 because x 0 wov5 ) ! help ( a comb 7! slay71#chb to pu% ! ?reads tight betwe5 ea* r[ ( /it*es2 & ! individual /it*es 7 put 9 ) a sort ( a ne$le1 or by ! f+]s only1 & laid on ! w>p4 ,x 0 ?us practis$ by ! ,egyptians1 by ! ,p]sians1 ,indians1 & ,p]uvians2 & 9 ,egypt 0 (t5 f9i%$ by embroid]y4 7,pl4 #df47 ,9 ,egyptian tombs we h evid5ce ( _! tape/ry1 f ! mural pa9t+s repres5t+ m5 & wom5 weav+ pictures 9 upright looms4 ,! comb :i* s]v$ to pu% ! ?reads toge!r aft] ! /it*es 7 laid 9 is sometimes f\nd 9 ! weav]'s tomb4 ,we h1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 pieces ( opus pect9eum f ,sacc>ah1 9 ,egypt2 & also fragm5ts f a ,p]uvian tomb1 ( b>b>\s design1 b ! weav+ is equal to ! ,egyptian2 & bo? resemble ! ,gobel9s weav+ ( to-day4 ,:5ce came ! craft ( ! ,p]uvians8 ,tape/ry is wov5 9 two ways1 by a high or by a l[-w>p loom 7haute-lisse or basse-lisse71 v]tical or horizontal4 ,! slay is ! implem5t :i* is peculi> to ! craft4 ,i %all n ent] into any description ( ! mode ( work+ ! looms1 z ?is has be5 ?or\ghly well done by ma/]s ( ! art4#chc ,b ,i w\ld call att5tion to ! ,frontispiece1 copi$ f a ,greek vase1 :]e ,p5elope is portray$ sitt+ by h] haute-lisse frame4 ,i also ref] ! read] to ! illu/ration f ! ,rheims tape/ries1 9 :i* a m$ival arti/ %[s ! ,bless$ ,virg9 weav+ at "o t is horizontal or basse-lisse4 7,pl4 #dg47 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #dg4 ,portion ( a ,tape/ry ,hang+4 ,ca!dral4 ,rheims4 ,! ,virg9 weaves & embroid]s at a basse-lisse frame4 ,= ! be/ in=mation ,i h be5 able to obta9 reg>d+ tape/ry weav+1 ,i mu/ ackn[l$ge my indebt$ness to ,m4 ,alb]t ,ca/el's ,biblio?que des ,m]veilles4#chd ,he has giv5 great c>e to ! consid]ation ( ?is subject1 & has collect$ good evid5ces to prove 8 conclusions1 :i* ,i will+ly accept en bloc4 ,( c\rse he has *iefly dealt ) ! ,fr5* bran* ( ! art1 & ) ! ,flemi%1 f :i* x imm$iately desc5ds4 ,he beg9s1 h[ev]1 by quot+ ,pl9y1 to prove ! antiquity ( weav+1 & gives a v]se ( ,m>tial's to ?is effect3 ,?\ owe/ ?is "w to ! l& ( ,memphis1 :]e ! slay ( ! ,nile has vanqui%$ ! ne$le ( ,babylon4#che ,hom] makes ,hel5 weave ! /ory ( ! siege ( ,troy2 ?is may h be5 p>tly embroid]$2 & !re are "s pieces ( wov5 tape/ry introduc$ mo/ +5i\sly into ! web ( a l95 %irt or g>m5t1 ( :i* ! sleeve is 9 ! ,egyptian dep>tm5t ( ! ,briti% ,museum1 prov+ t figures 7 pictur$ by weav+ q z e>ly z ! date ( ,troy1 & unmi/akably f9i%$ ) ! ne$le 7,plate #ah72 at any rate1 z e>ly z ! days ( ,hom]4 ,ara*ne's web 0 int]wov5 ) figures4 ,%e & ,m9]va rivall$ ea* o!r 9 +5i\s design & p]fect execution4 ,! description ( ! beautiful hang+s !y wove1 ! glori\s col\rs ) _! t5d]ly graduat$ t9ts1 & ! graceful bord]s1 appe> to be almo/ prophetic ( ! highe/ ef=ts ( ! looms ( ! ,gobel9s4#chfchg ,ara*ne's "n is d]iv$ f ! ,hebrew ^w = weav+1 ,arag4 ,x appe>s t ! t[n n[ call$ ,arras1 b anci5tly ,nom5ticum1 0 always a c5tre ( ! trade ( ! weav]s2#chh = ,flavius ,vopiscus1 writ+ 9 ,a4,d4 #bhb1 says t !nce came ! ,byrri--wov5 cloaks ) hoods1 :i* 7 mu* 9 vogue among/ all classes 9 ! lat] ,roman ,empire4 ,! craft ( weav+1 :i* fl\ri%$ 9 ! ,flemi% & o!r adjac5t c\ntries1 seems to h become native to t soil1 & to h clung to x1 surviv+ _m hi/orical cataclysms4#chi ,?\gh 9 ! fif? c5tury ! inhabitants ( t c\ntry 7 transport$ :olesale to ,g]many by ! ,v&als1 & among !m ^? ( ! t[n ( ,arras1 yet1 ?anks to ! mona/]ies1 !re 0 a survival & a revival2 ! craftsm5 gr\p+ !mselves r\nd ! religi\s h\ses4 ,specim5s z models 7 br\ght f ! ,ea/4 ,a/]1 ,bi%op ( ,amasis 7a t[n 9 ,asiatic ,turkey71 describes ^! ,ori5tal hang+s 9 "o ( 8 homilies4 ,he says t animals & sc5es f ! ,bible 7 wov5 on :ite gr\nds4#cij ,sidonius ,apoll9>is1 ,bi%op ( ,cl]mont ,f]r&1#cia says t "s =eign tape/ries are pictur$ ) ! summits ( ,ctesiphon & ,nephates1 wild bea/s runn+ rapidly across void canvas1 & also by a miracle ( art1 ! ,p>?ian ( wild aspect ) 8 head turn$ backw>ds4 ,?is might be a description ( a ,*9ese composition1 & probably x is s4#cib ,wov5 tape/ry is also call$ ,arras1#cic because t t[n 9 ! ,ne!rl&s 0 ! home & s*ool ( ! art ( picture weav+ 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,x has be5 hi!rto exclud$ f ! doma9 ( ne$lework1 because ( ! diff]5t use ( ! ne$le employ$ 9 x4 ,x has always be5 wov5 on a loom1 & is1 9 fact1 embroid]y comb9$ ) ! weav+2 = ! %uttle1 or slay1 or comb completes ea* r[ ( /it*es4 ,x belongs z mu* to our art z does tamb\r "w1 :i* is done ) a hook in/ead ( a ne$le4 ,tape/ry weav+ is ! intellig5t craft ( a practis$ h& guid$ by arti/ic skill4 ,! =ms ( ! pa9t$ design mu/ be copi$ by a p]son :o c draw2 & ! col\rs require z mu* c>e 9 selection1 z 9 pa9t+ ) oils or wat]-col\rs4 ,su* a ?+ z a purely me*anical exact copy is impossible 9 any art2 & ! difficulties are increas$ a hundr$fold :5 x is a translation into ano!r mat]ial1 & ano!r =m ( art4 ,besides1 9 ?is case1 ! copies are work$ f ! back1 & ! picture is rev]s$4 ,! "q is ?is3 ,c x be claim$ z belong+ to ! same craft z embroid]y8 ,i answ] 9 ! affirmative1 & ,i claim x4 ,:5 ! ,s>ac5s began to weave tape/ry we _c tell2 b ! work]s 9 wov5 pictures 7 call$ ,s>ass9s1 & _! craft1 ! 'opus ,s>ac5icum4'#cid ,! ,fr5* & ,flemi% artisans :o cont9u$ to weave 9 ! old upright frames 7haute-lisse7 71 :e!r ,*ri/ians or n1 call$ ,s>ass9s4 ,probably !y came ?r\gh ,spa91 possibly f ,sicily to ,fl&]s & to ,france1 or else f ,byzantium4 ,viollet-le-,duc says t ! ,s>ac9ois 0 a t]m appli$ to ! mak]s ( velvety c>pets 7tapis vel\ts74#cie ,?is is possible4#cif ,wov5 c>pets ( ,ori5tal type 7 spread+ !mselves z articles ( luxury ?r\gh ,europe e>ly 9 ! ,middle ,ages2 & ! ,p]sian /yle ( design 0 mu* ! same !n1 :5 ! fir/ models 7 br\ght to ,spa91 & !nce to ,arras1 z x is n[ 9 ! c>pets we buy j wov5 9 ,p]sia4#cig ,! olde/ specim5s kn[n "h h be5 exhibit$ 9 ! ,indian ,museum1 & may be ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies4 ,! p]i%able nature ( ! mat]ial makes u dep5d5t on ! sculptur$ records ( all arti/ic design = our k ( c>pets & hang+s ( m ?an a ?\s& ye>s ago2 & we mu/ confess t we f9d no?+ really resembl+ a ,p]sian patt]n 9 any classical tomb or sculpture ( ! ,d>k ,ages4#cih ,i h all[$ myself to t\* ^u c>pet weav+1 z x is g]mane to tape/ry2 ?\gh x is a bran* t soon loses itself & leaves arti/ic "w 9 ! di/ance4 ,except ! fir/ design1 x has become purely me*anical4 ,aft] :at has be5 quot$ f ,ovid's ,metamorphoses1 & be>+ 9 m9d ! pictur$ webs describ$ by ,hom]1 & likewise ! evid5ce ( ! frescoes 9 ,egypt1 & ! woman weav+ on ! ,greek fictile vase f\nd at ,*iusi1 we may be ju/ifi$ 9 conclud+ t1 l all o!r arts1 t ( tape/ry exi/$ 9 v e>ly days1 di$ out1 & _h to beg9 afre%1 & gradually return to life1 dur+ ! ,middle ,ages4 ,bi%op ,gaudry1 ab\t #ibe1 possess+ a piece ( tape/ry ) an inscription 9 ,greek lett]s surr\nd$ by lions p>sem1 0 mu* put ab\t till he obta9$ some?+ to mat* x1 to hang on ! opposite side ( 8 *oir at ,aux]re4#cii ,& x is kn[n t ! monks ( ,/4 ,flor5t1 at ,saumur1 wove tape/ries ab\t #ihe1 & cont9u$ to d s = two c5turies4 ,/4 ,angelme ( ,norway1#djj ,bi%op ( ,aux]re1 :o di$ 9 #hdj1 caus$ _m tape/ries to be execut$ = 8 *ur*4 ,at ,poiti]s ?is manufactory 0 s fam\s 9 ! elev5? c5tury1 t =eign k+s1 pr9ces1 & prelates s\ght to obta9 !m1 ev5 = ,italy4 ,! rules ( _! ord] ( ! monks ( ! ,abbey ( ,cluny1 dat$ #ajji1 7 foll[$ by ^? ( ,/4 ,wa/ & ( ! ,abbey ( ,fleury1 & o!rs 9 ,france1 :o all wove wool & silk = tape/ries4 ,le ,pre ,labb1 f :om mu* ( ?is in=mation is drawn & ackn[l$g$ by ,m4 ,*>ton 7my au?ority71 says t 9 #hgf1 at ,pon?ivre1 9 pres5ce ( ! ,emp]or ,*>les ! ,bold1 ! hall ( ! c\ncil-*amb] 0 hung ) pictur$ tape/ries1 & ! seats 7 cov]$ ) !m4#dja ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #dh4 ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,tape/ry at ,b]ne1 tak5 f ,*>les ! ,bold at ! ,battle ( ,gr&son1 #adgf4 ,suffici5t has be5 said to %[ t dur+ ! d>k ages hang+s 7 wov5 9 ,france1 ,g]many1 & ,belgium1#djb & t ,engl& 0 n beh9d ! re/ ( ! civiliz$ _w 9 ?is craft4 ,i ?9k1 also1 t we h indicat$ its ,ori5tal orig94#djc ,arras cont9u$ to lead z ! great tape/ry factory till ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :5 ! comm]cial failure ( ! city began1 at ! dea? ( ,*>les le ,tmraire1 ,duke ( ,burgundy4#djd ,plate #dh %[s a portion ( 8 t5t hang+s wov5 ) ! ord] ( ! gold5 fleece tak5 at ! battle ( ,gr&son--n[ 9 ! museum at ,b]ne4 ,till !n ,arras _h suppli$ mo/ ( ! spl5did decorations ( :i* we f9d su* m>vell\s li/s4 ,e possible subject--religi\s1 romantic1 hi/orical1 & allegorical--0 press$ into ! s]vice1 & pictur$ hang+s 7 suppos$ to in/ruct1 amuse1 & edify ! behold]s4 ,! d>k ages 7 illum9at$1 & _! b>b>ity s(t5$1 by ^! con/ant appeals to m5's highe/ in/9cts1 & to ! memories ( _! noble/ antec$5ts & aspirations1 :i* clo!d _! walls1 & s became a "p ( _! daily lives4 ,! great ,flemi% & ,fr5* work%ops became ! illu/rators ( ! hi/ory ( ! _w1 z x 0 !n read or be+ enact$4 ,x is a record ( fai?s1 religi\s & political2 & ( national & family lives & _! *anges4 ,! ,exhibition at ,brussels 9 #ahhj %[$1 by its ,catalogue ,raisonn1 h[ mu* c\ld be extract$ f its /ori$ tape/ries ( bo? ar*ological & arti/ic in=mation4#dje ,?\gh ! art cont9u$ to be ! s]vant ( ref9$ luxury 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 ,arras itself _h done its "w1#djf & 0 sup]s$$ z ! greate/ weav] ( arti/ic tape/ry by a neighb\r & rival4 ,brussels1 :i* _h be5 gradually ass]t+ itself z a weav+ community1 f t date absorb$ mo/ ( ! trade ( ,arras1 & !nce =w>ds1 till ,h5ri ,,iv4 e/abli%$ ! works ( ! ,savonn]ie1 ,brussels l$ ,european ta/e1 & employ$ ! be/ arti/s4 ,brussels employ$ ,leon>do da ,v9ci & ,mantegna1 ,giovanni da ,ud9e1 ,raphael1 & lat]1 ,rub5s & ! great ,dut* pa9t]s1 to design c>toons = tape/ry works4 ,raphael's pupil1 ,mi*ael ,coxsius1 ( ,me*l91 sup]9t5d$ ! copy+ ( 8 ma/]'s c>toons4 ,%ortly aft]w>ds1 ,antw]p1 ,oud5>de1 ,lille1 ,t\rnai1 ,val5ci5nes1 ,beauvais1 ,aubusson1 & ,bruges all _h _! s*ools2#djg & ! adept c trace _! diff]5ces & peculi>ities1 & "n _! bir?place1 )\t ref]r+ to _! trade-m>k1 or to t ( ! manufactur]1 :i* is usually to be f\nd 9 ! out] bord]4 ,poiti]s1 ,troyes1 ,beauvais1 ,rheims1 & ,/4 ,qu5t9 likewise _h _! s*ools1 & became fam\s4 ,want ( space prev5ts my ent]+ m fully into ?is subject ( ! nor!rn tape/ries1 & ,i mu/ ref] my read]s to ! au?orities ,i h quot$ f s l>gely4 ,,italian ,,tape/ry4 ,! ^w ,arrazzi %[s u :5ce ! ,italians drew _! art4 ,d\btless !re 7 looms 9 ! ,italian cities1 & especially "u ecclesia/ical patronage1 ?r\gh ! d>k ages4 ,rome 0 9 communication ) ! ,atrebates 9 ! ?ird c5tury1 by :om %e 0 suppli$ ) ! ,byrri1 or hood$ cloaks !n worn2 & z x _h be5 a c5tre = weav+ comm]ce1 x is probable t ,rome receiv$ f ,arras ! craftsm5 z well z ! produce ( _! looms4 ,at ! ,r5aissance we f9d factories = pictur$ webs 9 ,flor5ce1 ,rome1 ,milan1 ,mantua1 & else:]e4 ,! be/ arti/s ( ! ,italian s*ools--,mantegna1 ,leon>do1 ,raphael & 8 s*ol>s1 c41 c4--gave _! f9e/ designs to be execut$ 9 ,italy1 be=e !y 7 sold to ,arras1 ,brussels1 ,france1 or ,engl&1 & !y are accumulat$ 9 ! treasure-room ( e palace 9 ,italy4 ,b ! f9e/ collections are ^? ( ! ,vatican1 & ( ! ,pitti 9 ,flor5ce4 ,a spl5did volume might be edit$ ( ^! gr& arti/ic works2 su* a record w\ld be invaluable4 ,vas>i#djh & ,passevant give u occasional glimpses ( local factories = tape/ry1 b1 z we h be=e said1 ?is subject has /ill to be inve/igat$4 ,,fr5* ,,tape/ry4 ,9 ,france1 z else:]e1 tape/ry 0 probably wov5 9 private looms & 9 ! religi\s h\ses f e>ly days4 ,m4 ,jub9al believes t x 0 made at ,poiti]s1 ,troyes1 ,beauvais1 ,rheims1 & ,/4 ,qu5t9 z e>ly z #ajbe4dji ,froiss>t describes ! entry ( ,isabel ( ,bav>ia z a bride into ,p>is1 :5 ! h\ses 7 cov]$ ) hang+s & tape/ries repres5t+ hi/orical sc5es4#daj ,! ,cluny ,museum possesses a mo/ curi\s m$ival suite ( hang+s f ! ,*ateau de ,b\ssac1 ( ! e>ly "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,!y tell ! /ory ( ! ,dame au ,lion1 & are brilliantly col\r$ & *>m+ly qua9t & gay 9 design4 ,hang+s design$ by ,primaticcio 7 wov5 at ,fonta9ebleau1 :]e ,francis ,i4 />t$ ! manufacture 9 #aeci4 ,h[ev]1 ! fir/ national s*ool ( tape/ry weav+ 0 t at ,*aillot1 "u ! exp]i5c$ tea*+ ( workm5 f ,arras2 aft]w>ds transf]r$ to ! t[n ( ,gobel9s1 #afjc1 by ,h5ri ,quatre4#daa ,l\is ,quatorze & 8 m9i/] ,colb]t spl5didly protect$ ?is manufacture by law1 privilege1 & employm5t2 s did ,l\is ,qu9ze4 ,be=e ! ,revolution1 o!r consid]able tape/ry works 7 fl\ri%+ at ,aubusson 9 ,auv]gne1 at ,fellet9 9 ! upp] ,m>*es1 & at ,beauvais4 ,^! two la/ 7 especially fam$ = velvety tape/ries 7vel\ts74 ,z usual1 ! ,fr5* h surpass$ all o!r nations 9 ?is textile art4 ,! pictorial tape/ries ( ! ,gobel9s h c>ri$ ! beauty ( wall hang+s to ! utmo/ p]fection4 ,no?+ c be m fe/ive ?an a brilliantly light$ hall1 gl[+ ) ^! wov5 pictures or arabesques1 fram$ 9 gild$ c>v+s or /uccoes4 ,/ill we mu/ ackn[l$ge t1 9 *oice ( wor?y subjects1 ! ,flemi% ideal1 :i* _h be5 left f> beh9d1 0 ! highe/4 ,! weav]s ( ! "t ( ,l\is ,quatorze aspir$ only to tea* ! glories ( ,france1 n ! moralities ( society & civilization1 9 _! hi/orical compositions1 :i* 7 !n sup]s$$ by classical my?ology1 or else by sc5es f ru/ic life1 ( ! ,watteau ,s*ool4 ,la ,fonta9e's fables gave "s ( ! prettie/ & gaye/ designs1 & 7 g5]ally ! c5tres ( spl5did arabesques4 ,! draw+ & execution 7 p]fect4 ,x is to be fe>$ t 9 ! future1 great works ( textile decoration w be few & f> betwe54 ,x is only :5 ! ,/ate1 or ! mon>* t repres5ts ! dignity ( ! ,/ate1 protects & fo/]s ^! arti/ic factories1 t !y c cont9ue to ?rive4 ,)\t su* p[]ful enc\ragem5t1 fa%ion1 comm]cial depression1 or a w> w /op = a "t ! ord]s )\t :i* funds fail1 disc\ragem5t sets 91 & ru9 quickly foll[s2 & ! be/ workman :5 unemploy$1 or =c$ = "s ye>s to wield ! sword1 loses 8 practis$ skill nev] to be re/or$4 ,9 ,france1 :atev] has be5 ! =m ( gov]nm5t1 ! old traditions ( protection = ! ,gobel9s h be5 act$ up to & ma9ta9$4 ,! consequ5ce is t sci5ce & art /ill contribute _! ef=ts 9 ! ma*9]y1 ! col\r+1 & ! design+ ( hang+s ( :i* ! mat]ials#dab & ! execution are unrivall$4 ,probably !re w nev] aga9 be a ,tuil]ies or a ,v]sailles to adorn1 b an ,htel de ,ville1 especially if x is occasionally de/roy$1 may give f "t to "t opportunity = su* decorations4 ,,engli% ,,tape/ry4 ,:5 we consid] ! antiquity & ! excell5ce ( ! art ( tape/ry on ! ,cont95t1 we _c pret5d t !re c be ! same g5]al int]e/ 9 t ( our ,engli% looms4 ,b to ourselves x naturally assumes ! greate/ importance2 & ,i h tri$ to trace ! ef=ts ( our ance/ors 9 ?is direction1 by not+ e c]ta9 sign ( ,engli% production1 9 :at mu/ h be5 an imitation ( ,flemi% or ,ori5tal weav+4 ,! few facts "h collect$ may be ( s]vice to ! future writ] ( ! hi/ory ( ,engli% tape/ries4 ,comn5us1 ,pr9ce ( ,arras1 fl$ be=e ! ,romans f ,nom5ticum to ,engl&2 & he & 8 ,atrebates settl$ !mselves betwe5 ,sil*e/] & ,s>um1 & ! ,belg & ,p>isi did ! same4 ,! ,romans f\nd !m "h :5 !y invad$ ,engl&4 ,:]ev] ! ,belgic tribes spread !mselves1 ! art ( weav+ 0 e/abli%$4 ,comn5us probably br\ght ov]1 & left to 8 desc5dants1 ! inh]itance ( ?is craft4 ,dr4 ,rock ?9ks t pictur$ tape/ry 0 wov5 at an e>ly p]iod 9 ! ,middle ,ages by ! monks 9 ,engl&4 ,! e>lie/ pro( ( ?is t we possess1 is ! notice by ,mat!w ,p>is 7?irte5? c5tury7 describ+ ! ?ree r]$os = ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey2 ! fir/1 a l>ge "o1 depict+ ! f9d+ ( ! body ( ! ,protom>tyr2 ! o!rs1 ,! ,prodigal ,son & ,! ,man :o fell among ,?ieves4 ,all ^! 7 execut$ by ! ord]s ( ,abbot ,ge(frey4#dac ,:ile 9 ,london 9 #acaf1 ,simon1 ,abbot ( ,ramsay1 b\ght = ! use ( 8 monks1 looms1 %uttles1 & a slay4 ,pro weblomes emptes xxd4 ,et pro /aves ad eadem vjd4 ,item pro iiij ,%ittles1 pro eadem op]e vjd4 ,item j sloy pro textoribus viiid4#dad ,9 ,edw>d ,,ii4's "t !re 7 hang+s wov5 9 ,engl& :i* appe> to h be5 absolutely tape/ries4 ,!y 7 mu* valu$ abroad1 & 7 call$ ,salles d',anglet]re4 ,*>les ,v4 ( ,france 7#acfd7 possess$ among 8 articles ( co/ly furniture1 ,une salle d',anglet]re v]meille brode d'azur1 et e/ la bordure a vignettes1 et le d$ans de ,lyons1 d',aigles1 et de ,lyop>s4#dae ,our trade ) ,arras mu/ h improv$ our tape/ries4 ,we are told ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 sell+ 8 wools to t t[n1 & be+ !re=e call$ by ,philip de ,valois1 8 ,m>*ant de ,la9e4 ,horace ,walpole ref]s to an act1 ,de ,my/] ,tapici>orum1 ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 #acbg1 reg>d+ c]ta9 malpractices ( ! craft1 :i* proves its exi/5ce 9 ,engl& at t p]iod4#daf ,mr4 ,fr5*1 9 8 catalogue ( ! ,exhibition 9 ,london1 #ahea1 quotes ! tape/ries ( ,/4 ,m>y's ,hall at ,cov5try1 to prove t !re 0 a manufactory 9 ,engl&1 temp4 ,h5ry ,,vi4 ,!re 7 c]ta9ly individual looms1 ?\gh we d\bt :e!r x _h yet become a national indu/ry1 z we h s few specim5s rema9+4 ,! ,/4 ,m>y's tape/ries conta9 portraits ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 ,c>d9al ,beau=t1 c41 & are probably contempor>y works4 ,! subject is ! m>riage ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 ,!re is also a piece ( tape/ry at ,bude1 9 ,cornwall1 ! prop]ty ( ,mr4 ,maskell1 :i* came f a royal sale4 ,"h ! m>riage ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 is depict$1 & ! /yle resembles t ( ! ,cov5try hang+s4 ,! co/umes are c]ta9ly ,engli%1 & ! orig9al pictures mu/ h be5 ,engli%1 ?\gh !y might h be5 wr\ght at ,arras1 rem9d+ "o ( ! gr\ps ( figures & ! dresses on ! ,dun/able ,pall 7see ,plate #gh74 ,dr4 ,rock also quotes ! r]$os belong+ to ! ,v9tn]s' ,company1 repres5t+ ,/4 ,m>t9 %>+ 8 cloak ) a begg>4 ,he ?9ks ?is is execut$ by ! monks ( ,/4 ,alban's1 & attributes to ^? ( ,cant]bury ! f9e tape/ries ( ! leg5ds ( ! ,virg9 at ,aix1 9 ,prov5ce1 ( :i* we h ! hi/ory4 ,!y 7 orig9ally giv5 to ,cant]bury ,ca!dral by ,prior ,god/one1 & 7 call$ ,arras "w4 ,!re is no d\bt t !re 7 looms & arti/s 9 ! conv5ts & mona/]ies be=e !re 0 any recogniz$ s*ool ( su* "w 9 ,engl&4 ,probably till ! ,re=mation su* hang+s 7 be+ wov5 all ov] ,europe1 & only !n ceas$ 9 ,g]many & ,engl&4 ,"o _c b regret t ! weight ( ! evil :i* prepond]at$ ov] ! good 9 ! ,h\ses ( ! ,*ur*1 %\ld h caus$ s mu* t 0 beautiful 9 art to be cru%$ by _! ru94 ,*auc] speaks ( tape/ry ( v]d4#dag ,?is gre5 tape/ry seems to h be5 int5d$ to give a b[]y effect to ! room x hung2 & "o c imag9e t x pleas$ ! ta/e ( ! poet ( ! ,fl[] & ! ,leaf4 ,x seems to h be5 mu* ! fa%ion 9 ,engl& & else:]e ab\t t p]iod1 & g5]ally repres5t$ l&scapes & woody =egr\nds only2 b sometimes figures & animals 7 portray$1 & always 9 ! same t9ts ( blui%-gre54 ,dr4 ,rock gives u an extract f ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ,,ii41 conta9+ ! foll[+ items3 ,to a m]c] ( ,london = a gre5 hang+ ( wool1 wov5 ) figures ( k+s & e>ls ^u x2 = ! k+'s s]vice ^u solemn fea/ days 9 ,london2 !re=e ! tape/ry ( v]d 0 n a novelty ev5 9 ! "t ( ,*auc]4#dah ,oud5>de 0 fam\s = ^! hall+s or salles4 ,all ! specim5s m5tion$ 9 ! catalogue ( tape/ries exhibit$ at ,brussels 9 #ahhj1 are said to be f !nce4 ,b we see no reason :y x %\ld n h be5 an ,engli% /yle ( weav+ also4 ,! fir/ e/abli%m5t ( a p]man5t manufactory 9 ,engl&1 did n1 h[ev]1 take place until ! latt] end ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 :5 ,rob]t ,%eldon all[$ 8 manor-h\se at ,b>*e/on1 9 ,w>wick%ire1 to "o ,hicks1 :om he signalizes 9 8 w z ! au?or & beg9n] ( all tape/ry ( ,arras 9 ,engl&4 ,?is w is dat$ #aegf4dai ,illu/ration3 ,,summ] ,engli% ,tape/ry1 ,temp4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 at ,hatfield ,!re are f\r pieces ( tape/ry repres5t+ ! ,seasons1 remov$ f an old family h\se & plac$ by ,"l ,salisbury at ,hatfield ,h\se1 :]e !y hang 9 ! great corridor4 ,^! 7 probably wov5 9 ,b>*e/on4 7,plate #di47 ,! /yle is ,engli% ,r5aissance1 & ! design full ( int5tion2 9 fact1 !y h ! seal ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,only "o *>act]i/ic rem9ds "o ( ,flemi% art1 & t is ! mode ( draw+ ! plants & fl[]s1 :i* might h be5 tak5 out ( an old ,g]man h]bal4 ,! l&scapes & peasantry are unmi/akably ,engli%4 ,! pictures are work$ ) /rong black outl9es :i* emphasize e detail & give ! effect ( a highly col\r$ outl9$ engrav+2 rem9d+ "o ( ! *ildr5's books by ,m>cus ,w>d or by ,walt] ,crane4#dbj ,! tape/ries call$ ! ,spani% ,armada hang+s 7 probably wov5 "h late 9 ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,9 h] "t we f9d 9 catalogues ( h\sehold goods1 descriptions ( spl5did hang+s1 furni%+s ( palaces & private h\ses4 ,! ,,ms4 inv5tory ( ! ,e>l ( ,leice/]'s belong+s1 9 ! libr>y at ,longleat1 a/oni%es u ) ! abundance ( suites ( hang+s ( tape/ry t x enum]ates1 z well z ^? embroid]$ by h&1 & o!rs ( /amp$ & pa9t$ lea!r4 ,x 0 9 ! reign ( ,james ,i4 t ! manufacture 0 set up at ,mortlake1 9 ,surrey4 ,aubrey1 9 8 ,hi/ory ( ,surrey1 i4 p4 #hb1 h[ev]1 dates ! in/itution 9 ! subsequ5t reign2 b ,lloyd#dba is n only positive = ! =m] date1 b affirms x 0 ( ! motion ( ,k+ ,james himself1 :o gave #bjjj t[>ds ! und]tak+2 & we h fur!r pro(s extant t he sp5t l>gely1 & enc\rag$ x 9 e way4 ,he gave to ,sir ,francis ,crane1 :o erect$ ! h\se at ,mortlake1 ! mak+ ( ?ree ,b>onets t[>ds 8 project = manufacture ( tape/ry4#dbb ,ano!r curi\s item :i* we quote1 %[s t ! funds = ! ent]prise 7 n easily =?com+4 ,x is a w>rant to ,sir ,francis ,crane3 #bjjj to be employ$ 9 buy+ #ajjj p] ann4 ( p5sions or o!r gifts made ( ! k+1 & n yet payable1 = ease ( ,8 ,maje/y's *>ge ( #ajjj a ye> t[>ds ! ma9t5ance ( ,sir ,francis ,crane's tape/ry manufacture4#dbc ,app>5tly ?is little arrangem5t did n succe$1 = !re is an ackn[l$gm5t by ,*>les ,i41 9 ! fir/ ye> ( 8 reign1#dbd t he is 9 debt to ,sir ,f4 ,crane3 ,= ?ree suits ( gold tape/ry we /& indebt$ to ,sir ,francis ,crane #fjjj4 ,also ,sir ,f4 ,crane is all[$ #ajjj annually = ! bett] ma9t5ance ( said works = t5 ye>s to come4 ,! k+ also grant$ ! e/ate ( ,/oke ,bru]e1 ne> ,/am=d1 9 ,nor?ampton%ire1 z "p paym5t ( #af1djj due to him on ! tape/ry works at ,mortlake4#dbe ,! great value ( ^! tape/ries is %[n by ! prices nam$ 9 ! ,dome/ic ,pap]s ( ! ,/ate ,pap] ,(fice1 & 9 private inv5tories2 !y 7 wov5 9 silk1 wool1 & gold1 :i* la/ item acc\nts bo? = _! price & = _! disappe>ance4 ,william1 ,ar*bi%op ( ,york & ,"l ,keep]1 gave #bejj = f\r pieces ( ,arras repres5t+ ! f\r ,seasons4#dbf ,_! value1 h[ev]1 fell dur+ ! civil w>s1 = ! tape/ries ( ! five ,s5ses f ! ,palace ( ,oatl&s1 :i* 7 f ! ,mortlake looms1 7 sold 9 #afdi = #bgj4 ,! beautiful tape/ries at ,h\ghton 7 wov5 at ,mortlake3 ^! are all silk1 & conta9 :ole l5g? portraits ( ,james ,i4 & ,*>les ,i41 & _! ,que5s1 ) heads ( ! royal *ildr5 9 ! bord]s4 ,a simil> hang+ is at ,kn[le1 wr\ght 9 silk1 conta9+ portraits ( ,v&yke & ,sir ,francis ,crane4#dbg ,francis ,cleyne 0 a decorator & pa9t] employ$ 9 ! works at ,mortlake by ,*>les ,i41 :o1 :ile he 0 /ill ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 br\ght him ov] to ,engl& f ,ro/ock1 9 ,meckl5burg 78 native place71 :ile ! ,pr9ce 0 9 ,spa9 woo+ ! ,infanta4 ,cleyne 0 great 9 grotesques1 & also und]took 9 hi/orical designs4#dbh ,?ree ( ! ,raphael c>toons 7 s5t to be copi$ at ,mortlake4#dbi ,! pur*ase ( ^! c>toons by ! k+1 %[$ h[ high 0 ! /&>d to :i* he tri$ to raise ! art 9 ,engl&4 ,! ,triumph ( ,cs>1 by ,mantegna1 0 obta9$ = ! same purpose 9 #afec2 & c]ta9 ,dut* prison]s 7 =w>d$ to ! manufactory to be employ$ on ! "w4#dcj ,x 0 entru/$ to ! c>e ( ,sir ,gilb]t ,pick]+1 :o 0 ei!r an arti/ or ! sup]9t5d5t ( ! works4 ,aft] ! dea? ( ,sir ,francis1 8 bro!r1 ,sir ,ri*>d ,crane1 sold ! premises to ,*>les ,i4 ,dur+ ! civil w>s1 ! prop]ty 0 seiz$ ^u & confiscat$ z hav+ belong$ to ! ,cr[n4 ,x occupi$ ! site ( :at is n[ ,que5's ,head ,c\rt4 ,! old h\se opposite 0 built by ! k+ = ! resid5ce ( ,cleyne ! arti/4 ,gibson1 ! dw>f1 & portrait pa9t]1 :o _h be5 page to a lady at ,mortlake1 0 "o ( 8 pupils4#dca ,! value ( ! k+'s collection ( tape/ries 0 well und]/ood dur+ ! ,protectorate4 ,! tape/ry h\se rema9$ 9 ! occupation ( ,john ,holliburie1 ! ma/]-workman4 ,aft] ! ,re/oration1 ,*>les ,,ii4 appo9t$ ,v]rio z design]1 int5d+ to revive ! manufactory4 ,?is 0 n1 h[ev]1 c>ri$ out2 b ! "w /ill l+]$ on1 & mu/ h be5 9 "s repute1 = ,evelyn names "s ( ^! hang+s z a fit pres5t among ^? (f]$ by a gallant to 8 mi/ress4#dcb ,arras is said to h be5 wov5 at ,/am=d1 b we h no data ( its e/abli%m5t or its suppression4 ,burleigh ,h\se conta9s mu* ( x2 & !re is a suite ( hang+s at ,belton ,h\se1 ne> ,gran?am1 ( :i* !re are duplicates at ,wroxton ,h\se1 9 ,ox=d%ire1 all hav+ ! same traditional orig9 at ,/am=d4 ,possibly ,sir ,francis & ,sir ,ri*>d ,crane may h receiv$ ord]s at _! h\se at ,/oke ,bru]e1 :i* lay ne> en\gh to ,/am=d to acc\nt = ! magnates ( ! t[n & neighb\rhood obta9+ furni%+s ( _! tape/ries1 &1 p]haps1 vy+ ) ea* o!r 9 decorat+ _! ap>tm5ts ) !m4#dcc ,9 ,nor?umb]l& ,h\se !re 0 a f9e suite ( tape/ry1 wov5 9 ,lambe?1 #ageh4dcd ,?is is ! only sample ( t loom ( :i* we ev] f9d any m5tion4 ,!re 7 also works at ,fulham1 :]e furniture tape/ry 9 ! /yle ( ,beauvais 0 made4 ,?is manufactory 0 clos$ 9 #agee4dce ,x may be hop$ t ! revival ( tape/ry weav+ at ,w9dsor 9 our own day may be a success1 b )\t ! royal & noble enc\ragem5t x receives1 x w\ld probably v soon fall into disuse4 ,unless x is support$ by ! ,/ate1 su* an exceptionally exp5sive ma*9]y _c possibly be kept at "w4 ,x requires ! sup]9t5d5ce ( ! be/ arti/s1 & ! weav]s !mselves mu/ ne$s h ! highe/ te*nical education to enable !m to copy really f9e designs4 ,^! arti/ic requirem5ts1 besides ! extreme t$i\sness ( ! "w1 make x ! mo/ exp5sive ( all luxuri\s decorations--ev5 m co/ly ?an embroid]ies by ! h&1 cov]+ ! same spaces4 ,h[ev]1 ! two /yles ( hang+s nev] c ent] into competition1 except 9 a f9ancial po9t ( view4 ,tape/ries are ! be/ fitt$ = wall cov]+s1 & embroid]ies = curta9s ( all k9ds--= b$s1 = w9d[s1 & = portires4 ,! old hang+s are n[ aga9 hav+ _! day1 & we are /riv+ to save & re/ore all t rema9 to u4 ,we mu/ cont9ue to gu>d ^! treasures f ! mo?s1 _! wor/ enemies2 & sci5ce %\ld be invok$ to assi/ u 9 ! pres]vation ( ^! preci\s works ( art1 ( :i* ! value is n[ aga9 und]/ood & appreciat$1 & :i* increases ) e decade t is add$ to _! antiquity4 ,tape/ry1 z art1 has its own peculi> beauties1 & "o ( !m is ! s(t5+1 yet brilliant effect ( ! alt]nate lights & %ad[s ( ! ridge-l surface2 ! sep>ation ( ea* /it* & ?read also ca/+ m9ute %ad[s 9 ! opposite direction1 & giv+ an iridesc5t effect4 ,x is a mi/ake to /ruggle aga9/ ?is inh]5t quality1 in/ead ( seek+ to utilize x4 ,! co>s] & simpl] tape/ries ( our ance/ors are really m beautiful & effective 9 l>ge spaces--flat 9 ! arrangem5t ( col\rs1 & %>ply outl9$--?an ! imitations ( pa9t+s ( ! la/ two c5turies1 9 :i* e detail ( =m & col\r is s\ght to be express$4#dcf ,m4 ,blanc says t tape/ries 7 int5d$ to cov] ! b>e walls1 b n to make u =get _! exi/5ce4 ,! wall be+ int5d$ = com=t & def5ce1 ! m9d is solac$ ) ! idea x conveys4 ,x is a mi/ake1 !re=e1 to sub/itute a surface picture1 s real t x at once does away ) ?is impression ( security1 :ile a c]ta9 conv5tional art %\ld amuse ! m9d ) %ad[y repres5tations & sugge/ions4 ,x is1 p]haps1 =tunate t ! possibilities ( tape/ry weav+ are re/rict$1 & ?us its v imp]fections become ! s\rces ( its be/ qualities z decoration & com=t4 ,"o elem5t ( textile weav+1 ! use ( gold1 bo? 9 ! backgr\nds & 9 ! drap]ies1 takes x at once out ( ! region ( naturalism1 :ile giv+ x light & spl5d\r4 ,! design] = tape/ry ne$ n be a great g5ius4 ,h>mony1 repose1 grace1 & t5d] col\r+ are ! qualities mo/ valuable to su* an arti/4 ,battle-pieces1 & o!r excit+ & awful subjects1 are only be>able 9 ap>tm5ts t are us$ = /ate occasions1 or = hang+ corridors & ant]ooms4 ,!y are pa9ful to live )4 ,all tape/ries are liable to suff] by ! d\ble nature ( _! mat]ials--_! wooll5 surface & l95 ?reads :i* are affect$ by bo? damp & heat cr9kl+ ! =ms & puck]+ ! faces1 & br++ out unexpect$ expressions & de=mities4 ,= ?is reason ! design %\ld be z flat & z simple 9 its outl9e & %ad+ z is consi/5t ) beauty4 ,,footnotes3 #cag ,birdwood1 ,indian ,arts1 p4 #bhc4 #cah ,! ^w 9 ,sanskrit = a ne$le is su*i1 f su*1 to sew or pi]ce4 ,?is is ! same ^w z ! ,lat9 suo1 to sew2 s probably ! common ^w us$ by ! ,aryans 9 _! primeval habitations 0 su1 & !y cle>ly knew h[ to sew at t remote p]iod4 ,eve sew$ fig-leaves toge!r4 ,adam sew$ also4 ,! ,hebrew ^w is taf>1 & cle>ly meant sew+1 n p9n+ toge!r ) ?orns4 ,sew+ is ! fir/ record$ art ( our =efa!rs4--,lett] f ,mr4 ,rob]t ,cu/4 #cai ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 ,textile ,kun/1 i4 pp4 #gg-ij4 #cbj ,semp]1 ,textile ,kun/1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #gg4 ,! ,g]man ^w naht1 "h lit]ally translat$1 w\ld be1 unit+1 weav+1 br++ toge!r4 #cba ,h&book ( ,pla9 ,ne$lework1 by ,mrs4 ,floy]4 ,see also h] ,pla9 ,h9ts = ,exam9]s1 c4 #cbb ,dr4 ,rock1 ,introduction1 pp4 cix1 cx1 calls x ?read embroid]y1 & names "s specim5s 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,he says x 0 sometimes done 9 d>n+ /it*es = ecclesia/ical purposes1 = in/ance1 = cov]+s = ! pyx4 ,x is m5tion$ 9 ! ,exet] inv5tory ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,!re is notice ( :ite knott$ ?read-"w belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 9 #abie1 by ,dugdale 7p4 #caf74 #cbc ,/4 ,ca!r9e ( ,si5na's w9d+-%eet is describ$ z be+ cut "w 7punto tagliato7 on l954 ,?is s\nds l embroid]y ( ! type n[ sold z ,madeira "w1 ! patt]n be+ cut out & ! edges ov]ca/4 #cbd ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 pp4 #acb1 #bjc4 #cbe ,see ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #bhi4 #cbf ,ibid4 ,he cites ,a!nu1 iv4 #fd4 #cbg ,phrygia 9 g5]al1 & especially ,babylon1 7 fam$ = _! embroid]ies4 ,colores div]sos pictur intex]e ,babylon maxime celebravit et nom5 imposuit4--,pl9y1 lib4 viii4 #gd4 ,see ,d',aub]ville1 ,ornem5t des ,tissus1 p4 #g4 #cbh ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #aif4 ,opus ,phrygium1 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 includ$ all gold "w 9 flat /it*es4 ,! cloak work$ by ,que5 ,gisela 9 ! n9? c5tury1 = h] husb&1 ,/4 ,/eph51 ,k+ ( ,hung>y1 ! imp]ial mantle at ,bamb]g1 ( ! date ( #ajbd1 & ! robes ( ,bi%op ,william de ,blois 7?irte5? c5tury71 9 ! libr>y at ,worce/] ,ca!dral1 are all opus ,phrygium1 & resemble ea* o!r 9 /yle4 #cbi ,9 ! ,museum at ,muni* are two rem>kable examples ( ^! imitations4 ,!re is an embroid]$ badge ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,dragon1 work$ 9 gold & wov5 ov] ) col\r$ silks1 s z to pres5t ! appe>ance ( enamel 7sixte5? c5tury74 ,! second is a dress = a h]ald ( ! ,ord] ( ,/4 ,hub]tus1 :i* is ri*ly embroid]$ 9 gold & silv]1 & ! badge & coll> are imitat$ 9 ! mo/ extraord9>y mann]1 & laid on entirely 9 gold ne$lework4 ,?is is ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 #ccj ,9 ,salt's collection f ,sacc>ah 7,briti% ,museum72 also at ,tur91 9 ! ,egyptian ,museum2 & 9 ! collections 9 ! ,l\vre1 figur$ by ,aub]ville 9 ! ,ornam5tation des ,tissus4 #cca ,h5ce ! ,fr5* "n1 po9tes comptes4 #ccb ,see ,semp]1 ii4 p4 #bac1 = wood-"w at ,panticapum1 ,k]t*1 9 ! ,crimea1 :i* evid5tly has desc5d$ 9 /yle f panell$ ne$lework hang+s4 ,*aldean wall decoration at ,khorsabad & ,w>ka1 ne> ,nimr\d1 recalls ! effect ( opus pulv9>ium accord+ to ,l(tus4 ,see ,semp]1 i4 p4 #cbg4 #ccc ,d] ,/il1 i4 pp4 #aif1 #bdh4 ,?is is kn[n f ! ar*aic books ( imp]ial comm]ce4 #ccd ,peacocks' fea!rs1 ei!r wov5 or onlaid1 are ^? mo/ commonly us$ 9 ,*9a & ,japan4 ,ka ,moolelo ,hawaii1 by ,m4 ,jules ,remy1 ,p>is1 #ahfa4 ,see ,f]d9& ,d5is1 ,arte ,plum>ia1 p4 #ff4 #cce ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #cgc1 translates f ,publius ,syrus ! ^w plumata1 fea!r$4 ,! ^w embroid]$ w\ld h "h improv$ ! s5se1 ev5 ?\gh x is a peacock t is describ$4 ,?y food ! peacock1 :i* displays 8 spott$ tra91 ,z %9es a ,babylonian %awl ) fea!r'd gold4 ,he also quotes ,lucan1 :o is prais+ ! furni%+s ( ,cleopatra's palace3 ,"p %9es ) fea!r$ gold2 "p %$s a blaze ( sc>let4--,yates1 p4 #cgc4 #ccf ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood1 ) all 8 en?usiasm = ,indian art & its =ms1 yet _c resi/ a t\* ( hum\r :5 he describes a /ate umbrella1 ( :i* ! h&le & ribs are pure gold1 tipp$ ) rubies & diamonds1 ! silk5 cov]+ bord]$ ) ?irty-two fr+$ loops ( pe>ls1 & also appropriately decorat$ ) ! fea!rs ( ! peacock1 h]on1 p>rot1 & goose4--,birdwood1 ,indian ,arts1 ii4 p4 #ahb4 #ccg ,hi/ory ( ! ,k+dom ( ,congo1 c4 viii4 p4 #ee1 by ,filippo ,pigafetta 7translat$ by ,mrs4 ,m4 ,hut*9son74 #cch ,9 ! ,tyrol c]ta9 embroid]ies are call$ ,f$]/ick]ei4 #cci ,= ! fea!r hang+s at ,moritzburg1 see ,app5dix #b4 #cdj ,arte ,plum>ia1 by ,m4 ,f]d9& ,d5is4 ,p>is1 #ahge4 #cda ,! ,plum>ii m5tion$ by ,pl9y 7 craftsm5 9 ! art ( acu p+]e1 or pa9t+ ) ! ne$le4 ,?\gh ,s5eca speaks ( ! opus plum>ium z if x 7 absolutely fea!r-"w1 yet x may h be5 at t "t und]go+ its transition into embroid]y1 sugge/$ by fea!rs1 & imitat+ !m 9 gold1 silv]1 wool1 or ?read4 ,:5 ,lucan describes ! extraord9>y *ange introduc$ into ,roman habits & luxury by ,cleopatra's spl5d\rs1 8 use ( ! words1 p>s auro plumata nitet1 probably means _! imitation or mixture ) gold embroid]y1 & w\ld1 !re=e1 come "u ! head ( opus ,phrygium4 #cdb ,x is said t ! "w1 nam$ ,plum>ium1 0 made by ! ne$le2 & ! ,greeks1 f ! v>iety ( ! ?reads1 call$ x ,polymitum4 ,plum>ium dicitur opus acu factum quod ,grci a licionum v>ietate multiplici polymit>ium appellant4--,rob]t ,/ephan4 ,!saurus ,l+u ,lat91 s4v4 ,plum>ius4 #cdc ,blmn]1 i4 p4 #bji4 ,! ,plum>ii 7 a class ( p]sons m5tion$ by ,vitruvius1 & f\nd likewise 9 inscriptions4 ,x _c be decid$ ) c]ta9ty :at 0 _! occupation2 _! "n w\ld lead u to suppose t x has some?+ to d ) fea!rs4--,beck]'s ,gallus1 ii4 p4 #bhh4 ,b see ,m>qu>dt1 ,h&bu* d4 ,rm4 ,alt]t4 vii4 pt4 #b1 p4 #ebc4 #cdd ,plum>ium qui acu aliquod dep+it sup] culcitris plumeis4--,r4 ,/eph41 ,!saur4 ,lat4 #cde ,see ,! ,fun]al ,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que51 by ,villi]s ,/u>t4 #cdf ,see ,aub]ville's ,tissus1 ,plate i4 #cdg ,compte ,r5du de la ,commission ,ar*ologique1 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 #ahha4 ,pl4 iii4 pp4 #aab1aai4 #cdh ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum is ! l9+ ( a %ield :i* %[s ! arms ( ,r$v]s1 ?ird ,e>l ( ,albem>le 7:o di$ #abfj71 appli$ 9 diff]5t col\r$ silks4 #cdi ,l5t by ! ,ar*ological ,museum at ,madrid4 #cej ,rees' ,cyclopdia speaks ( embroid]ies on ! /amp or /ump1 z be+ s nam$ :5 ! figures are high & prom95t1 support$ by cotton1 wool1 or hair2 also 9 l[ & pla9 embroid]ies1 )\t enri*m5t betwe54 ,he speaks ( "w cut & laid on ! clo?1 laid d[n ) gold1 enri*$ ) t9sel & spangles4 ,rees' ,cyclopdia1 ,embroid]y1 #ahai4 #cea ,opus consutum4 ,! way 9 :i* ?is appli$ "w is us$ 9 ,india1 = ! special adornm5t ( horse-clo?s1 saddles1 & gir?s1 is v int]e/+4 #ceb ,! *apt] on application1 9 ! ,h&book ( ,embroid]y ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework1 w be useful to ^? :o ne$ in/ruction 9 ! mo/ practical1 & !re=e ! quicke/ way ( do+ cut "w4 #cec ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,hi/ory ( ,lace4 ,! orig9 ( ne$le-made lace-"w is attribut$ by ,m4 de ,ghelt( to ! necessity = dispos+ ( ! fray$ edges ( worn-out g>m5ts4 ,?is ,i ?9k some:at fanciful4 ,fr+es may h be5 s sugge/$4 #ced ,see ,m4 ,blanc's ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress 7p4 #bjj74 #cee ,mrs4 ,bayman 7late ,sup]9t5d5t 9 ! ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework7 writes ?us3 ,i see no reason to d\bt t ! ^w guipure is d]iv$ f 'guipa' or 'guip]1' a ribbon-weav]'s t]m = sp9n+ "o ?read r\nd ano!r2 & t guipure 0 orig9ally m l :at we n[ call 'guimp1' or l 'po9t de ,raguse1' fir/ be+ made ( ?read1 ( m or less ?ickness & common] mat]ial1 w\nd r\nd ) a f9] flax1 silk1 or metal2 !n !y cut %apes1 bold scrolls1 & leaves out ( c>tisane1 vellum1 or p>*m5t1 w9d+ & cov]+ !m ov] ) ! m preci\s ?read4 ,^! figures 7 !n connect$ by brides1 only z close z 0 requir$ to hold !m toge!r1 & leav+ l>ge op5 spaces1 ?us =m+ ! l>ge scroll patt]ns se5 9 s _m old pictures4 ,no d\bt ! heavy ,fogliami & ,rose po9t laces develop$ !mselves f ^! /ill old] k9ds ( po9t4 ,z ! cord & c>d lace disappe>$1 ! "n slid on to all laces ) l>ge1 bold patt]ns & op5 brides1 ?\gh ! special me?od :i* fir/ creat$ x _h be5 effac$4 ,latt]ly1 embroid]$ nett+ or laces h be5 call$ guipure d'art4 ,littr gives ! d]ivation ( ! ^w2 he says x is f ! ,go?ic ,vaipa1 or ,g]man ,weban or ,web5 7g & p replac+ ! w & b74 #cef ,! ^w lace came f ,france1 :]e x 0 call$ lacis or lassis1 d]iv$ f ! ,lat9 laqueus 7a noose74 ,^! words orig9ally appli$ to n>r[ ribbons--_! use be+ to lace or tie4 #ceg ,! ,v5etians e>ly made mu* lace = furniture or ecclesia/ical l95 adornm5t1 ( :at !y call$ maglia quadrata1 :i* 0 usually squ>$ nett+1 aft]w>ds fill$ 9 ) patt]ns 9 d>n$ ne$lework4 ,?is some:at primitive /yle ( lace trimm+ 0 popul> on acc\nt ( its simplicity1 & desc5d$ to ! peasantry = _! dome/ic decorations 9 ,spa91 ,g]many1 ,france1 & ,italy4 ,!re are specim5s ( ?is "w believ$ to be ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,r5aissance ! simple geometrical designs develop$ into animals1 fruits1 fl[]s1 & human figures4 #ceh ,see ,rock1 p4 cix1 cx4 ,he says t a sort ( embroid]y 0 call$ network1 & c]ta9 drawn "w he calls opus filatorium4 ,see ,catalogue ( ,textiles 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 by ,d4 ,rock1 p4 cxxvii4 #cei ,rem9d+ u ( ! description ( a net--holes ti$ toge!r by a /r+4 ,z a contra/ 9 descriptive /yle1 we w\ld quote ,dr4 ,johnson on network3 ,any?+ reticulat$ or decussat$ at equal di/ances1 ) int]/ices betwe5 ! int]sections4--,johnson's ,diction>y4 #cfj ,isaiah iii4 #ah1 xix4 #i4 #cfa ,! nets ( *equ] "w :i* hung r\nd ! capitals1 ) ! wrea?s ( *a9 "w1 7 design$ by ,hiram ( ,tyre1 at ,solomon's desire 7#a ,k+s vii4 #ag74 #cfb ,a fr+e lace is made on ! ,rivi]a1 ( ! fibres ( ! aloe1 & is call$ macram1 :i* is an ,arabic ^w4 ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,hi/ory ( ,lace1 p4 #fd4 #cfc ,a coll> ( f9e :ite human hair 0 made 9 po9t lace /it*es at ,v5ice1 & worn at 8 coronation by ,l\is ,quatorze4 ,x co/ #bej pieces ( gold4 ,scritti di ,v4 ,zanon da ,ud9e 7#ahbi74 ,cit$ by ,urbani de ,ghelt(1 ,m]letti di ,v5ezia1 pp4 #bb1 #bc4 #cfd ,see1 = example1 ! inv5tory ( ! h\sehold goods ( ! great ,e>l ( ,leice/] at ,longleat2 also ! li/s ( ! possessions ( ,ippolito & ,angela ,s=za 7sixte5? c5tury74 #cfe ,col\r$ ?read & silk laces are /ill made 9 ,v5ice4 #cff ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 #cfg ,m4 ,blanc's use ( ! ^w guipure is diff]5t f t f\nd 9 ! notices ( ! art by o!r au?orities4 #cfh ,! fir/ lace-mak+ ma*9e 0 contempor>y1 or ne>ly s1 ) ! /ock+-mak+ frame4 ,ab\t ! ye> #agfh x 0 alt]$1 & adapt$ = mak+ op5-"w patt]ns4 ,9 #ahjh1 ! ,hea?cot ma*9e 0 />t$ = bobb9 net4 ,9 #ahac1 ,john ,leav] improv$ on ?is idea1 ) ma*9e-wov5 patt]ns4 ,! ,jacqu>d app>atus a*iev$ ! flat patt]ns1 & ! new ,d5tellire has p]fect$ ! art4 ,lace-mak+ by ma*9]y employ$ by ! late/ (ficial returns 9 #ahga1 #bi1cgj wom5 9 ,engl&1 & #bd1jjj 9 ,france4 ,see ,encyclopdia ,britannica1 #i? edition1 p4 #ahc-e4 #cfi ,m4 ,*>les ,blanc1 ,art 9 ,ornam5t & ,dress1 p4 #baa4 #cgj ,! in=mation conta9$ 9 ^! volumes is mo/ valuable1 = ! lace-work] z well z ! collector4 #cga ,lady ,lay>d sugge/s t ! cut lace "w1 :i* 0 ! e>lie/ made 9 ,v5ice 7punto tagliato1 po9t c\p71 simply consi/s ( button-hole /it* ) purl ornam5ts4 ,^! are v>i$ ) geometrical /it*es & ne$le-weav+ 9 ^? solid laces call$ punti tagliati ,fogliami1 & ,rose po9t de ,v5ise1 ( ! f9e/ k9ds4 #cgb ,urbani de ,ghelt(1 9 8 book1 ,m]letti di ,v5ezia1 p4 #i1 says t ,v5etian laces & fr+es 7 furni%$ !nce = ! coronation ( ,ri*>d ,,iii4 7#adhc74 ,i fancy t gold guimps or braid1 r ?an nett$ laces1 mu/ be "h int5d$1 z we h no o!r notice ( lace s e>ly4 ,see ,ibid4 pp4 #aj-bj4 #cgc ,h5ry ,,viii4 _h a pair ( hose ( purple silk1 edg$ & trimm$ ) a lace ( purple silk & gold1 ( ,milanese manufacture4 ,h>l4 ,,mss41 #aeai4 #cgd ,! manufacture ( po9t d',al5on 0 creat$ "u ! special ord]s ( ,l\is ,quatorze1 by ,colb]t1 9 #afgc4 ,n[ m ?an #bjj1jjj wom51 besides ! ma*9i/s1 are employ$ 9 lace-mak+ 9 ,france4 ,colb]t import$ ! tea*]s f ,v5ice4 #cge ,yri>te says t ,al5on1 ,arg5ton1 ,s$an1 ,m]c\rt1 ,honiton1 ,b$=d1 ,buck+ham%ire1 ,ox=d%ire1 ,me*l91 ,bruges1 ,brussels1 all foll[$ 9 imitation ( ,v5ice4 ,yri>te's ,v5ise1 p4 #bej4 #cgf ,titian drew ! designs = "o ( ^! books = punti tagliati4 ,! laces made 9 ! ,greek isl&s probably owe _! orig9 to ,v5ice1 %[+ ! same punti 9 aria4 #cgg ,i h already spok5 ( lacis z ei!r d>n$ nett+ or drawn "w4 ,( ?is !re is an ,engli% specim5 at ,prague1 said by tradition to be ! gift ( ,que5 ,anne ( ,bohemia1 wife ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,x orig9ally trimm$ or bord]$ an ecclesia/ical g>m5t4 #cgh ,= fur!r in=mation1 we ref] ! read] to ,m4 ,urbani de ,ghelt('s book on ,v5ice laces already cit$ 7,organia1 ,v5ice1 #ahgf71 & ,lady ,lay>d's translation 7#ahhb74 #cgi ,i am assur$ on ! be/ au?ority t ?is is unkn[n z yet at ,burano2 b ! work]s1 z well z ! reviv$ indu/ry1 are v "y4 ,! mod]n s*ool ( ,burano has only be5 e/abli%$ elev5 ye>s4 ,x is c]ta9ly delightful to see ! #cbj happy faces1 s++1 *att]+1 & smil+ ov] _! graceful occupation2 & ! beauty ( ! ,buranese wom51 :i* is celebrat$1 has n suff]$ f _! occupation4 ,!re is a *>m+ little article ( ! ,revi/a di ,tor9o1 #ahhc1 :i* describes ! improvem5t 9 ! social condition ( ,burano1 morally & physically1 & ! way x is recogniz$ by ! inhabitants4 ,in/ead ( signs ( mis]able pov]ty1 ! promot]s ( ! lace s*ool are greet$ by ! wom5 lean+ f ! w9d[s )1 ,sie/u b5$etta6 7,be ?\ bless$674 #chj ,! ^w tape/ry comes f ! ,greek tapes1 :i* is us$ equally = hang+s or c>pets4 ,! ,italians call c>pets tapeti to ?is day4 ,x is believ$ to h be5 orig9ally an ,egyptian ^w = su* fabrics4 #cha ,= in/ance1 ! embroid]$ hang+s ( ! eigh? c5tury at ,g]ona1 9 ,spa91 h be5 m ?an once quot$ z pro(s ( tape/ries hav+ be5 manufactur$ !re at t p]iod4 #chb ,! slay means ! /rike4 ,! ^w _h ! same mean+ orig9ally3 to slay a man 0 to /rike him4 #chc ,see ,de ,*ampeaux1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum ,art ,h&book1 #ahgh4 #chd ,biblio?que des ,m]veilles 7sur les ,tapiss]ies71 publi s\s la direction de ,m4 ,ed\>d ,*>ton1 ,p>is1 #ahgf4 #che ,m>tial1 xiv4 #aej4 #chf ,m9]va accepts ! *all5ge ( ! ,monian ,ara*ne1 :o w n yield to h] 9 ! praises ( be+ fir/ 9 weav+ wool4 ,! girls des]t ! v9ey>ds r\nd ! little t[n ( ,hyppa1 to look at h] admirable workman%ip4 ,%e boa/s t h]s is f9] ?an t ( ,pallas1 &1 desir+ a va9 victory1 ru%es ^u h] own de/ruction4 444 ,!y /ret* out two webs on ! loom1 ) a f9e w>p4 ,! web is ti$ to ! beam2 ! slay sep>ates ! w>p2 ! wo( is ins]t$ 9 ! middle ) %>p %uttles1 :ile ! f+]s hurry along1 & be+ drawn ) ! w>p1 ! tee? 7not*$ 9 ! mov+ slay7 /rike x4 ,bo? ha/5 on _! lab\r1 & gird+ up _! g>m5ts to _! bosoms1 !y move _! skilful arms1 _! eag]ness beguil+ _! fatigue4 ,!re are be+ wov5 bo? ! purples1 :i* are subject$ to ! ,tyrian braz5 7dye+7 vessel ) f9e %ades ( m9ute diff]5ce2 z 9 ! ra9b[ ) its mighty rays reflect$ by ! %[]1 :]e1 ?\gh a ?\s& col\rs are %9+1 yet ! v transition eludes ! eyes t look ^u x2 to su* a degree is t :i* is adjac5t ! same1 & yet ! extremes are diff]5t4 ,! pliant gold is m+l$ ) ! ?reads1 & anci5t subjects are repres5t$ on ! webs4 ,!n foll[s ! li/ ( ! subjects4 ,! web ( ,pallas _h a l>ge c5tral design1 & a small] "o on ea* corn]1 surr\nd$ ) a bord] ( olive leaves4 ,ara*ne's conta9$ n9ete5 pictures1 ( two or m figures ea*1 & 0 surr\nd$ by a bord] ( fl[]s1 int]wov5 ) ! tw9+ ivy4 ,ovid's ,metamorphoses1 book vi4 ,?r\gh ! k9dness ( my fri5d1 ,"l ,h\ghton1 ,i am enabl$ to give ! sequel ( ! /ory--,ara*ne's trans=mation into ! ,spid]1 z-- ,a ,,p>aphrase ,,& ,a ,,p>able4 ,lo6 h[ ,m9]va1 recklessly defi$1 ,/ruck d[n ! maid5 ( arti/ic pride1 ,:o1 all di/raught ) t]ror & despair1 ,susp5d$ h] li! body 9 mid-air2 ,deem+1 if ?us %e innoc5tly di$1 ,! sacr$ v5geance w\ld be pacifi$4 ,n s3 implacable ! goddess cri$-- ,live on6 hang on6 & f ?is h\r beg9 ,out ( ?y loa?some self new ?reads to sp92 ,no spl5did tape/ries = royal rooms1 ,b sordid webs to clo! ! caves & tombs4 ,nor blame ! ,poet's ,metamorphoses3 ,man's ,life has ,trans=mations h>d z ^!2 ,?\ %all become1 z ,ages h& !e d[n1 ,! dre> day-work] ( ! cr[d$ t[n1 ,:o1 envy+ ! r\gh till] ( ! soil1 ,plies h] monoton\s unheal?y toil1 ,pass+ ?r\gh joyless day to sleepless night ,) m9d enfeebl$ & decay+ sight1 ,till "s good g5ius1#dcg k9dr$ ?\gh ap>t1 ,resolves to raise !e f ! vulg> m>t1 ,& once m l9ks !e to ! ,_w ( ,art4 #chg ,app5dix #c4 #chh ,guicci>d9i ascribes ! inv5tion ( wov5 tape/ry to ,arras1 giv+ no dates2 s we d n "k :e!r he attributes x to ! ,belgic ,atrebates or to _! successors1 ! ,franks4 ,9 ei!r case ! craft 0 probably import$ f ! ,ea/4 #chi ,! ,atrebates 7 ! inhabitants ( t ,belgic region till ! fif? c5tury2 n[ x is ! prov9ce ( ,artois1 probably a corruption ( ! "n ,atrebates4 ,taylor1 ,words & ,places 7#ahfe71 pp4 #bbi-che4 #cij ,ca/el1 ,des ,tapiss]ies1 p4 #cj4 #cia ,sidonius ,apoll9>is1 ,epi/4 ix41 #ac4 ,cit$ 9 ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 p4 #fh4 #cib ,ca/el1 ,des ,tapiss]ies1 p4 #ca4 #cic ,! comm5tators ( ,vas>i1 ,,mm4 ,le*an* & ,j5ron1 believe t ?is art 0 coeval 9 ! ,l[ ,c\ntries ) ,roman civilization & ,*ri/ianity2 b x w\ld appe> t ! weav]s _h fl$ to ,brita9 to escape f ! ,romans4 ,ibid4 p4 #eb4 ,traces ( ! "n ,arras h be5 f\nd by ,bo*>t & ,frahn 9 ,ar-ras1 ! ,arabian "n = ! riv] ,araxes & ! p :o inhabit its %ores2 b ?is may be accid5tal1 & is at be/ an unc]ta9 d]ivation4 #cid ,rock1 ,introduction1 p4 cxii4 ,?is ,s>ac5ic "w is really s l :at is call$ by ! ,g]mans ,gobel9s :5 f\nd 9 ,egyptian tombs t "o c h>dly d\bt :5ce ! ,moors br\ght _! art4 ,!re are sev]al ,egyptian specim5s 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,see also ! catalogue ( ,h]r ,graf's*5's collection ( ,egyptian textiles1 f ! fir/ to ! eigh? c5tury4 ,katalog d] ,teodor ,graf's*5 ,fnde 9 gypt51 von ,dr4 ,k>abacek4 ,wi51 #ahhc4 #cie ,viollet-le-,duc1 ,dictionnaire du ,mobili] ,franais1 ,tapis1 p4 cxii2 also ,m4 ,jub9al1 ,tapiss]ie ,hi/orique4 ,x is difficult absolutely to assign to any kn[n specim5s a date ant]ior to ! fifte5? c5tury2 al?\gh ,m4 de ,*ampeaux ?9ks t ! ,s>az9ois 7 mo/ly or entirely c>pet-weav]s ab\t ! elev5? c5tury4 ,he says !re is docum5t>y au?ority to prove t ^! 7 wov5 ) fl[]s & animals4 ,!re is a v deep-pil$ velvety c>pet at ,gorhambury 7! ,e>l ( ,v]ulam's place74 ,"h ,que5 ,elizabe?'s arms & cyph] appe> on a ,p]sian or ,moresque gr\nd patt]n surr\nd$ ) a wrea? ( oak leaves4 ,x may h be5 a gift f ,spa91--left aft] "o ( h] visits to h] ,*ancellor4 #cif ,tapiss]ies des ,gobel9s1 ,a4 ,l4 ,lacordaire1 p4 #aj 7#ahec74 ,he consid]s t ! ,s>az9ois 7 embroid]]s z well z weav]s--& ?is !ory is support$ by extracts f an inv5tory ( ,*>les ,,vi4's hang+s ( #adba4 ,e detail ( ! art & its mat]ials 0 c>efully regulat$ by ! ,fr5* /atutes ( #afbe-bg1 conta9+ _m laws = ! p]fect+ ( ! manufacture ( new z well z ! re/oration ( old tape/ries--& f9es 7 impos$ = n us+ mat]ials z ne>ly z possible mat*+ ! orig9al ones2 & likewise = any o!r d]eliction f ! rules ( ! craft4 ,ibid4 pp4 #i1 #aj1 #ad4 #cig ,at ! ,poldi ,bezzoli ,museum 9 ,milan !re are "s v f9e c>pets2 "o especially1 a ,p]sian1 is suppos$ to be ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,?is is v f9ely wov5 ( pure1 t5d] col\rs1 & ! :ole composition1 fl[]s & animals 7mo/ beautifully drawn lions1 c471 is delicately outl9$ 9 black on a :ite gr\nd4 ,! col\r+ is ri* & h>moni\s1 & has ! iridesc5t effect ( "m ( pe>l4 #cih ,9 ! ,san ,clem5te frescoes at ,rome !re are hang+s :i* %[ a semi-,asiatic /yle4 #cii ,mmoires ,hi/oriques et ,ecclesia/iques d',aux]re1 p> ,m4 l',abb ,lebuf1 i4 pp4 #agh1 #bca4 #djj ,!re are v int]e/+ ,norwegian tape/ries ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 :i* %[ di/9ctly an ,ea/]n orig94 #dja ,jub9al1 ,tapiss]ies1 pp4 #be1 #bf2 ,viollet-le-,duc1 ,dic4 de ,mobili] ,franais1 p4 #bfi4 #djb ,!re is mu* spl5did tape/ry--,g]man1 & especially ,bav>ian1--to be se5 at ,muni*2 &1 inde$1 ! m "o seeks1 ! m "o f9ds t private looms 7 con/antly at "w 9 ! ,middle ,ages = votive (f]+s4 ,!re is a tape/ry alt>-piece at ,coire1 9 ! ,grisons1 ( ! ,crucifixion1 :i* is evid5tly ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,! col\rs are /ill brilliant1 & ! :ole backgr\nd is beautifully compos$ ( gr[+ fl[]s4 ,no sky is se54 ,!re is at ,muni* an alt> frontal ( tape/ry1 ,go?ic ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 exquisitely beautiful4 ,! weav] has introduc$ a little portrait ( h]self at h] loom1 "u ! folds ( ! virg9's cloak at h] feet4 #djc ,m4 ,alb]t ,ca/el 7,tapiss]ie1 p4 #ec7 believes t ! tak+ ( ,con/ant9ople1 :5 ,e>l ,baldw9 0 elect$ to ! ?rone ( ,byzantium1 _h a great effect on ,flemi% art1 :i* !n receiv$ a /rong impulse f ,ori5tal designs & traditions4 ,see ,m4 ,jub9al's v int]e/+ acc\nt ( ! tapiss]ie de ,nancy :i* l9$ ! t5ts ( ,*>les ! ,bold at ! siege ( ,nancy 7p4 #dci74 ,^! tape/ries are an allegory aga9/ gluttony4 ,tapiss]ies ,hi/41 pp4 #a-e4 #djd ,*>les ! ,bold has left u records ( 8 ta/e 9 t5t hang+s ( ,arras at ,b]ne1 z well z at ,nancy4 ,^! are ! plund] f 8 camp equipage aft] ! battle ( ,gr&son4 ,! :ole suite1 ( _m pieces1 repres5ts battles & sieges1 & sacr$ subjects also1 su* z ! adoration ( ! ,magi4 ,!y are f9ely drawn & spl5didly execut$ ) gold lights1 & are ( ! mo/ p]fect /yle ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! ,national ,museum at ,muni* conta9s mo/ valuable specim5s ( v e>ly & v f9e tape/ries2 among/ o!rs1 a ,virg91 :i* 0 c]ta9ly design$ 9 ! s*ool ( ,dr]1 & is ( ! greate/ p]fection ( its art1 bo? z to col\r & draw+ & ! g5]al effect1 :i* has a s(t1 dreamy beauty1 only to be se5 9 f9e wooll5 tape/ries1 & diff]+ f pictorial design & int5tion4 #dje ,see ,rock1 cxii3 ,among ! rem>kable suites ( tape/ry ( :i* we f9d hi/orical m5tion are ! foll[+3 ,9 #accd1 ,john de ,croisette1 a ,tapissi] ,s>az9ois1 demeurant ,arras v5dit au ,duc de ,t\ra9e un tapis ,s>az9ois or3 de l'hi/oire de ,*>lemagne 7,vois91 p4 #f74 ,( ! _m record$ z belong+ to ,philip1 ,duke ( ,burgundy & ,brabant1 "o piece1 ,haulte lice sanz or3 de l'hi/oire du ,duc de ,norm&ie1 comm5t il conquit ,englet]re4--,les ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 p> le ,comte de ,laborde1 ii4 p4 #bgj1 ,no4 #dbgg4 #djf ,m4 de ,*ampeaux1 ! au?or ( ! ,h&book ( ,art ,tape/ry belong+ to ! s]ies ( ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 #ahgh1 says t ! hi/ory ( ,arras has yet to be writt54 ,he1 h[ev]1 gives a great deal ( int]e/+ in=mation1 especially ab\t ! ,fr5* tape/ries1 on :i* subject we fancy !re is little m to tell4 ,_! art does n come f su* a di/ant "t z t ( ! ,belgian manufactures4 ,aft] ,l\is ,,ix4 _h decimat$ ! inhabitants1 & disp]s$ ! rema9d]1 ,arras yet made a gallant /ruggle to revive h] indu/ry & compete ) ! ris+ prosp]ity ( ,brussels2 b ,france _h decre$ aga9/ h]4 #djg ,encyclopdia ,britannica 7,art ,tape/ry71 pp4 #ag1 #ig4 #djh ,vas>i vividly describes ! design = a tape/ry = ! ,k+ ( ,portugal--! hi/ory ( ,adam--on :i* ,leon>do da ,v9ci1 !n ag$ tw5ty1 0 engag$4 ,he l+]s t5d]ly ov] ! picture ( ! fl[]y field & ! c>eful /udy ( ! bay-trees4 ,vas>i1 tom4 vii4 p4 #ae2 ed4 ,fir5ze1 #ahea4 #dji ,see ,m4 ,jub9al's ,tapiss]ies ,hi/ories1 p4 #bf2 ,viollet-le-,duc1 ,mobili] ,franais1 i4 p4 #bfi4 #daj ,froiss>t's ,*ronicles1 iv41 *ap4 #bc2 ,johnes ed4 #ahae4 #daa ,m4 de ,*ampeaux1 ,h&book ( ,art ,tape/ry1 p4 #bd2 also ,rock1 ,textiles1 p4 #abb4 ,m4 ,lacordaire1 ,tapiss]ie des ,gobel9s1 p4 #ae1 tells u t "u ,l\is ,,xiii4 ! /atutes ( #afbe-bg conta9 _m regulations = ! p]fection ( ! mat]ials employ$ 9 weav+ new z well z 9 re/or+ old tape/ries4 ,f9es 7 impos$ = n mat*+ ! col\rs c>efully4 #dab ,engli% wool is /ill us$ = ! f9e/ tape/ries at ! ,gobel9s4 ,! wool f ,k5t is consid]$ ! be/4 #dac ,vit ,/4 ,alban4 ,abbatum1 p4 #dj2 ,rock1 p4 cxi4 ,t ! walls 7 cov]$ ) tape/ry 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury is suppos$ to be prov$ by ! description ( ,hro?g>'s h\se 9 ! ,romance ( ,be[ulf4 ,we are told t ! hang+s 7 ri* ) gold1 & a wondr\s sight to behold4 ,hi/ory ( ,dome/ic ,mann]s1 c41 9 ,engl& dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 by ,?omas ,wright1 p4 #b4 #dad ,mat!w ,p>is1 9 ,dugdale ,mona/41 ed4 #ahai1 ii4 p4 #ahe4 #dae ,quot$ by ,mi*el f ,,mss4 9 ! ,imp]ial ,libr>y1 ,p>is4 #daf ,?is 0 a writ to ! ,ald]m5 & ,%]iffs ( ! ,city ( ,london1 pr9cipally levell$ aga9/ ! deal+s ( c]ta9 ,fr5*m5 :i* 7 aga9/ ! well-be+ ( ! trade ( ! ,tapissi>ii 444 by petition ( ,p>liam5t at ,we/m9/]4 ,cal5d4 ,rot4 ,pat4 ,edw>d ,,iii41 p4 #adh1 ,de ,my/] ,tapici>orum1 ,lond4 ,m4 #da4 #dag ,call$ v]dures 9 ,fr5* inv5tories4 #dah ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 lxxix4 #dai ,! art ( weav+ tape/ry 0 br\ght to ,engl& by ,william ,%eldon1 ,esq41 ab\t ! end ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4--,see ,dugdale's ,w>wick%ire 7,/emmata3 ,%eldon71 #bnd edition1 folio1 vol4 i4 p4 #ehd2 also ,lloyd's ,/ate ,wor?ies1 p4 #iec1 quot$ by ,mann+ & ,bray1 ,hi/4 ( ,surrey1 vol4 iii4 p4 #hb4 ,b we h an e>li] notice ( a spirit$ attempt to make f9e tape/ries at ,kilk5ny4 ,pi]s1 ,e>l ( ,ormonde1 m>ri$ ! daught] ( ,fitzg]ald1 ,e>l ( ,kild>e1 a p]son ( great wisdom & c\rage4 ,!y br\ght f ,fl&]s & ! neighb\r+ prov9ces artific]s & manufactur]s1 :om !y employ$ at ,kilk5ny 9 work+ tape/ries1 diap]1 ,turkey c>pets1 cu%ions1 c4 ,pi]s di$ #aeci4 ,c>te's ,introduction to ! ,life ( ,james1 ,duke ( ,ormonde1 vol4 i4 p4 #ic 7,ox=d1 #ahea74 #dbj ,william ,%eldon at 8 own exp5se br\ght workm5 f ,fl&]s1 & employ$ !m 9 weav+ maps ( ! diff]5t c\nties ( ,engl&4 ,( ^!1 ?ree l>ge maps1 ! e>lie/ specim5s1 7 pur*as$ by ! ,e>l ( ,or=d 7,horace ,walpole71 by :om !y 7 giv5 to ,e>l ,h>c\rt4 ,he _h !m repair$ & clean$1 & made z fre% z :5 out ( ! loom1 & ev5tually gave !m to ,g\gh1 ! antiqu>y1 :o bequea!d !m to ! ,univ]sity ( ,ox=d4 ,! ,armada tape/ry1 :i* is /at$ to h be5 design$ by ,h5ry ,cornelius ,vroom1 ! ,dut* m>9e pa9t]1 & wov5 by ,francis ,spi]+1 appe>s to h be51 9 #afjb1 9 ! possession ( ,"l ,h[>d1 ,"l ,high ,admiral & ! h]o ( ! ,armada4 ,full] p>ticul>s are giv5 9 ,walpole's ,anecdotes1 i4 p4 #bdf1 "u ! "n ( ,vroom1 ,s&>t be+ ! pr9cipal au?ority4 ,"p ( !m 7 9 ! ,h\se ( ,lords till #ahcd1 :5 !y p]i%$ 9 ! fire4 ,^! _h be5 engrav$ 9 #agci by ,john ,p9e1 b x appe>s t at t "t !re 7 9 ! royal w>drobe o!r pieces1 n[ lo/4 #dba ,lloyd's ,wor?ies4 #dbb ,cal5d> ( ,/ate ,pap]s1 cx4 ,no4 #bf1 ,james ,i41 #afai-bc4 #dbc ,cal5d> ( ,/ate ,pap]s1 vol4 clxxxi4 ,no4 #dh4 #dbd ,rym]1 ,fd]a1 vol4 viii4 p4 #ff1 ed4 #agdc4 #dbe ,brydges1 ,nor?ampton%ire1 i4 p4 #cbc1 "u ! head ( ,/oke ,bru]e1 pt4 #a1 p4 #dh4 #dbf ,mann+ & ,bray's ,hi/ory ( ,surrey1 vol4 iii4 p4 #cjb4 #dbg ,horace ,walpole1 ,anecdotes ( ,pa9t+ 9 ,engl&1 vol4 ii4 p4 #bb4 #dbh ,macph]son1 ,annals ( ,comm]ce4 #dbi ,!re is 9 ,brydges' ,nor?ampton%ire1 "u ! head ( ,/oke ,bru]e 7! e/ate :i* ,k+ ,james gave to ,sir ,f4 ,crane z "p paym5t ( ! deficit ( #af1djj 9 8 tape/ry bus9ess71 m5tion ( ! c>toons ( ,raphael ( ,urb91 444 _h f ,g5oa1 & _! co/1 #cjj1 besides ! transport4 ,m4 ,blanc says1 ) great ju/ness1 t ,raphael1 :5 he prep>$ ^! c>toons = tape/ry1 made designs = weav+1 & did n pa9t pictures4 ,if !y _h be5 int5d$ = oil pictures1 !y w\ld h be5 v diff]5tly treat$4 #dcj ,cal5d> ,/ate ,pap]s1 ,dome/ic1 ,sept4 #bh?1 #afec4 #dca ,horace ,walpole's ,anecdotes ( ,pa9t+1 vol4 iii4 p4 #fd4 #dcb ,see ,evelyn's v sc>ce tract1 entitl$ ,mundus ,muliebris1 pr9t$ #afij1 p4 #h4 #dcc ,"l ,tyrconnell1 ,"l ,exet]1 & ,"l ,guild=d _h m>ri$ ?ree ( ! ,br[nl[ heiresses ( ,belton1 :o _h a w9t] resid5ce at ,/am=d4 #dcd ,design$ by ,francesco ,zuc*>elli4 ,rock1 ,introduction1 p4 cxiv4 #dce ,x has be5 at diff]5t p]iods ! cr[n+ glory ( ! craft ( ! weav] to place diff]5t patt]ns or pictures on ! two sides ( ! web4 ,?is w\ld almo/ appe> to be impossible1 b t x has be5 done 9 late ye>s1 accord+ to ,rock1 :o tells u t he saw a bann] s wov51 ) ! ,au/rian eagle on "o side & ! ,virg9 ( ! ,immaculate ,conception on ! o!r4 ,he says t ! same manufactur] 0 !n be+ employ$ 9 produc+ ecclesia/ical g>m5ts ) ! col\rs & patt]ns s v>i$4 #dcf ,9 old tape/ries ?ree t9ts only 7 employ$ = ! complexions ( m51 wom51 & *ildr5--! man's r$di%1 ! woman's yell[1 & ! *ild's :it] ?an ei!r4 ,x is an agreeable economy ( col\rs1 simple & effective1 & avoids ! pictorial imitation t "o deprecates4 ,see ,m4 ,*>les ,blanc's ,grammaire des ,arts ,dcoratifs3 ,tapiss]ie1 p4 #aab4 #dcg ,! poet "h ref]s to ,h4,r4,h4 ! ,pr9cess ,*ri/ian4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,hang+s4 444 ,h] b$*amb] 0 hang'd ,) tape/ry ( silk & silv]4444 ,cymbel9e1 ,act ,,ii41 ,sc5e ,,iv4 ,! mo/ important works t h be5 execut$ 9 embroid]y1 h be5 hang+s or c>pets4 ,we may look ^u ^! z belong+ to ! hi/ory ( ! pa/4 ,nev] aga9 w su* works be und]tak54 ,_! raison d'tre1 z well z ! means = _! production1 h ceas$ to exi/4 ,we h v anci5t hi/orical evid5ce ( ! use ( hang+s 7or tape/ries71 ei!r z curta9s to exclude pry+ eyes1 or z cov]+s to :at 0 sacr$ or else unseemly1 or z ornam5tal backgr\nds 9 public & private build+s4 ,!re is no d\bt t 9 pill>$ spaces ! enclosures & subdivisions 7 complet$ by hang+s f pill> to pill>1 f ! e>lie/ times ( ,asiatic civilization4 ,9 ,assyria1 & aft]w>ds 9 ,greece & ,rome1 ! op5 c\rts & rooms 7 %ad$ f ! sun & ra9 by umbrella-l erections ) hang+s /ret*$ ov] !m4 ,f ! ,coliseum's va/ area to t ( ! smalle/ atrium 9 ! ,pompeian h\se1 ! cov]+ pr9ciple 0 ! same4 ,palace-halls & temples alike 7 furni%$ 9 ?is way1 & ! cold spl5d\r ( ! poli%$ m>bles 0 enhanc$ by contra/ ) ! %ad[+ folds ( s(t textures ri*ly embroid]$ 9 bright col\rs & gold4 ,! /atues1 ! gold & silv] vessels1 ! %r9es heap$ ) votive (f]+s1 7 all br\ght into high] relief & effect by ! scre5s1 ! curta9s1 & ! veils :i* classical p]fect ta/e w\ld plan s z to c>ry out ! decorator's int5tion4 ,babylonians1 ,p]sians1 ,assyrians1 ,egyptians1 ,greeks1 & ,jews1 ea* adorn$ _! sacr$ places 9 simil> fa%ions4#dch ,clem5s ,alex&r9us says t beh9d ! hang+s ( ! ,egyptian temples 7 hidd5 _! fooli% images4#dci ,! ^w hang+s 0 appli$ to all l>ge curta9s & tape/ries1 t5t cov]+s1 scre5s divid+ empty spaces1 or p5dant betwe5 pill>s2 also sails1#ddj bann]s1 & decorations = processional purposes cov]+ walls or hang+ f w9d[s2 all ^! h be5 embroid]$ or wov5 ) pictures & patt]ns4 ,c>pets1 f hav+ orig9ally ! same "n1 tapete1 are to be add$ to ?is li/1 &1 9 fact1 _! uses are (t5 int]*ang$4 ,kosroes' fam\s hang+s 7 us$ z a c>pet1 & ,p]sian & ,babylonian c>pets h be5 hung on ! walls4 ,a ,babylonian hang+ mu/ h resembl$1 9 its /yle 7( :i* we h descriptions71 ! ,p]sian c>pet ( to-day4 ,semp] gives excell5t reasons = 8 !ory t1 next to dress1 hang+s 7! clo?+ ( ar*itecture7 7 ! e>lie/ phase ( art4#dda ,he looks ^u ! mo/ anci5t pa9t+s on ar*itecture z absolutely repres5t+ textile cov]+s4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ ,babylonian decorations %[ m5 support+ drap]ies1 :i* he believes to be ! tradition ( ! "t :5 ! talle/ slaves held up ! hang+s to _! own height2 & above !m1 9 ti]s1 7 m51 dw>fs1 & ev5 *ildr5 fa/5$ on brackets1 c>ry+ ! hang+s up to ! ro(s4 ,?is 0 an ,assyrian cu/om1 & 0 adopt$ by ! ,romans z a mode ( dispos+ ( _! prison]s ( w>4 ,woltmann & ,wo]mann appe> to lean to ! sugge/ion t p]man5t imitations ( hang+s 7 c>ri$ out 9 pa9t$ or encau/ic tiles cov]+ ! masonry ( ,*aldean build+s at ,nimr\d & ,khorsabad4 ,! pale ones associat$ ) l[ reliefs1 & really resembl+ !m1 z !y 7 p>tly rais$1 & ! reliefs 9 alaba/] & /one1 :i* 7 p>tly col\r$1 7 9 h>mony1 & yet 9 contra/1 ) ! brilliant tiles ( ,babylon4#ddb ,we "k exactly :at 7 ! purple1 sc>let1 & :ite hang+s ( ! ,sanctu>y 9 ! wild]ness1 design$ by ,bezaleel1 & t ! veil ( ! ,temple 0 blue1 purple1 crimson or sc>let1 & :ite1 i4e4 work$ on :ite l952 & we "k f ,josephus1 t ! veil ( ! ,temple1 :i* 0 r5t 9 twa9 sixte5 c5turies lat]1 0 t d$icat$ by ,h]od1 & 0 ,babylonian "w1 repres5t+ heav5 & e>?#ddc 7see p4 #bc ante74 ,its col\r+ 0 sc>let1 :ite1 & blue4 ,sc>let & :ite hang+s seem inde$ to h be5 an ,ori5tal fa%ion2 & fa%ion !n 0 n ephem]al1 b la/$ hundr$s ( ye>s4 ,! embroid]$ curta9s ( ! ,tab]nacle are repeat$ 9 ! hang+s ( ,alex&]'s w$d+ t5t1 aft] #aejj ye>s2 & a ?\s& ye>s lat] /ill !y reappe> 9 ! sev5? c5tury1 :5 ,pope ,s]gius gave curta9s to ! high alt> 7balda*9o7 9 ! basilica ( ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome ( ?is same sc>let & :ite embroid]y4 ,9 e>ly ,ori5tal art1 ! enorm\s exp5diture ( "w is appall+ to ?9k (4 ,abulf$a describes ! palace ( ! ,caliph ,moctad]1 on ! banks ( ! ,tigris1 z be+ adorn$ ) #ch1jjj pieces ( tape/ry1 & ( ^! #ab1jjj 7 ( silk work$ 9 gold4 ,:at a weal? ( wom5 _h to be wa/$ 9 creat+ su* a weal? ( embroid]ies6#ddd ,!re is a ,b$\9 romance :i* describes ! t5t ( ,ant>1 & %[s ! ta/e = l>ge works4 ,five ?\s& horsem5 c\ld skirmi% "u its embroid]$ %ade2 & ,akb>'s l>ge/ t5t held #aj1jjj p]sons4 ,nadir ,%ah's gorge\s t5t1 :i* 0 ( ! end ( ! sev5te5? & ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 0 ( sc>let clo? on ! outside1 l9$ ) violet sat9 embroid]$ ) gold & preci\s /ones4 ,! peacock ?rone 0 plac$ )9 x1 & 0 kept !re dur+ ! rema9d] ( ,nadir ,%ah's reign4 ,sir ,john ,*>d9 says t ,! ,khan ( ,p]sia caus$ a t5t to be made :i* co/ two millions3 !y call$ x ! h\se ( gold2 & x 0 respl5d5t ) embroid]ies4#dde ,^! are comp>atively mod]n works1 & s\nd commonplace & vulg> comp>$ to ^? ( ,greece & ,egypt4 ,! ,greeks imitat$ ! t5ts & tempor>y build+s ( ! ,ea/]n mon>*s4 ,?is phase ( ,ori5tal luxury 0 import$ by ,alex&] ! ,great1 & we h ! description ( two ( 8 gorge\s creations at ,alex&ria1 :]e he outrivall$ ! anci5t traditional glories ( ,assyria & ,p]sia4 ,8 own t5t 0 support$ by fifty gold5 pill>s1 c>ry+ a ro( ( wov5 gold1 embroid]$ 9 %imm]+ col\rs1 & divid$ f ! surr\nd+ c\rt1 fill$ ) gu>ds & reta9]s1 by sc>let & :ite curta9s ( spl5did mat]ial & design4 ,b m gorge\s is ! acc\nt ( ! t5t 9 :i* he ent]ta9$ n9ety-"o ( 8 companions-9-arms on ! occasion ( 8 m>riage4 ,?is t5t 0 support$ by columns tw5ty cubits high1 plat$ ) silv] & gold1 & inlaid ) preci\s /ones4 ,! walls ( ! c\rt 7 =m$ by curta9s adorn$ ) figures work$ 9 gold1 & 7 hung f beams plat$ ) ! preci\s metals1 to mat* ! columns4 ,! out] c\rt 0 half a mile 9 circumf]5ce4#ddf ,yet ,alex&]'s w$d+-t5t 0 exce$$ 9 spl5d\r by t erect$ by ,ptolemy ,philadelphus = 8 great pomp at ,alex&ria1 describ$ by ,kallix5os1 z cit$ by ,a!nu4#ddg ,?is t5t1 cr[n$ ) gold5 eagles1 0 support$ by pill>s fifty cubits high4 ,!y upheld an ar*itrave ) cross-beams cov]$ ) l951 on :i* 7 pa9t$ c(f]s1 to imitate ! /ructure ( a solid ro(4 ,f ! c5tre 0 susp5d$ a veil ( sc>let bord]$ ) :ite4 ,! pill>s 9 ! f\r angles repres5t$ palm-trees ( gold1 & ! int]m$iate columns 7 fa%ion$ z ?ursi1 & 7 probably wrea!d ) gold5 v9es & bun*es ( grapes made ( ame?y/s1 z we "k ( a ,p]sian t5t s adorn$1 & ! :ole idea ( ! erection 0 evid5tly fre% f ! ,ea/4#ddh ,a frieze eight cubits high 0 compos$ ( ni*es conta9+ gr\ps ( tragic1 comic1 & ,satyric figures 9 _! natural g>b2 & nymphs & gold5 tripods f ,delphi4 ,! t5t 0 sep>at$ f ! out] p]i/yle by sc>let hang+s1 cov]$ ) *oice sk9s ( wild bea/s4 ,^u ^! 7 hung ! celebrat$ ,sikyonian pictures1 ! h]itage ( ! ,ptolemaic dyna/y1 alt]nat+ ) portraits & ri* hang+s1 on :i* 7 embroid]$ ! lik5esses ( k+s1 & likewise my?ological subjects4 ,betwe5 ^! & ! frieze hung gold & silv] %ields4 ,opposite ! entrance1 vessels ( ! mo/ co/ly mat]ials & workman%ip1 valu$ at #aj1jjj tal5ts ( silv]1 7 rang$1 s z to /rike ! eye ( all :o ent]$ !re4 ,gold5 c\*es support$ by ,sph9xes 7 plac$ along ! sides ( ! t5t1 furni%$ ) s(t purple wooll5 mattresses1 & cov]+s gaily & exquisitely embroid]$4 ,! floor 0 /rewn ) fre% blossoms1 except :]e a mo/ co/ly ,p]sian c>pet cov]$ ! c5tre4 ,9 ! doorways & aga9/ ! pill>s /ood a hundr$ preci\s /atues by ! greate/ arti/s4 ,?is description dazzles ! imag9ation6 ,to be an uphol/]] 7a ve/i>ius7 9 ^? days 0 to be an eng9e]1 ar*itect1 & arti/6 ,semp]1 f ^: translation we are quot+1 rem>ks t ! luxuri\s motive ( su* an erection naturally arose f ! desire to make use ( ! mass ( arti/ic mat]ials acquir$ by conque/1 & ! ef=t to r$uce !m to c]ta9 ar*itectural pr9ciples already accept$4#ddi ,t ,alex&] did n purposely de/roy ! ,p]sian embroid]ies is evid5t f ! fact t ,lucullus speaks ( !m #bjj ye>s lat]4 ,rome accept$ & adopt$ all ! ,ori5tal uses ( hang+s1 9 ! ,temple & ! h\se = tempor>y fe/ive occasions4 ,by bo? ,greeks & ,romans hang+s 7 us$ 9 triumphal processions1 cov]+ imm5se mov+ c>s or drap+ ! tempor>y build+s :i* l9$ ! av5ues ( _! progress4 ,also ! fun]al pyres :i* ,greece & ,rome copi$ f ,assyria 7 hung ) spl5did mat]ials & embroid]ies4 ,)\t describ+ "o ( ^! awful erections1 x is impossible to give any idea ( h[ mu* arti/ic treasure 0 ?r[n into ! flames :i* consum$ ! rema9s ( a great man4 ,! fun]al pyre d$icat$ by ,alex&] to 8 fri5d ,heph/ion recalls t erect$ by ,s>danapalus 9 "o ( ! c\rts ( 8 own palace1 on :i* he p]i%$1 surr\nd$ by 8 wives & 8 treasures4 ,heph/ion's catafalque 0 built ( inflammable mat]ials1 #bej feet high1 rais$ 9 _m /ories1 & hung ) pictorial tape/ries1 pa9t$ & embroid]$4 ,ea* /ory 0 adorn$ ) images ( ivory & gold4 ,9 ! upp] /ory 7 enorm\s holl[ figures ( ,sir5s1 fill$ ) s+]s1 :o *ant$ ! fun]al odes4#dej ,x is to be hop$ t !y 7 releas$ be=e ! conflagration4 ,! records ( su* extravagant fun]al c]emonies tea* u h[ mu* ( human ?\ght1 h[ mu* ( art & beauty :i* _h help$ to civilize ! _w1 7 torn f ! places !y 7 intellig5tly design$ to decorate1 heap$ up by ! conqu]ors1 & z ru?lessly sp5t & de/roy$ = ! boa/ ( a day4#dea ,*ri/ian ,rome adopt$ ! traditions ( ,pagan decoration1 & introduc$ !m 9 h] wor%ip1 processions1 & %[s4 ,a great religi\s procession l t ( ! ,corpus ,dom9i 9 our own times1 has rem9d$ u ( a ,roman triumph4 ,! balda*9i & ! bann]s2 ! tor*es2 ! /reets1 fe/oon$ ) drap]ies2 ev5 ! ,pagan emblems1 :i* h be5 conv]t$ into ,*ri/ian symbolism--all ^! 7 ! e*oes ( classical days2 b !y are fa/ disappe>+4 ,two ?\s& ye>s w h worn out & effac$ ^! cu/oms1 & our *ildr5 w n see !m4 ,i h n space to l+] ov] ! _m descriptions ( ,ori5tal1 ,grecian1 & ,roman "w to be ga!r$ f classical au?ors1 b f !m ?is lesson is to be le>n$ t ! fir/ pr9ciple :i* guid$ ^? great decorators 0 ! individuality & appropriat5ess ( ea* design to ! purpose = :i* x 0 int5d$ & ! place x 0 to fill4 ,b ev5 _! peculi> excell5ces did n save !m f ! univ]sal law ( de/ruction4 ,:5 ! hang+s 7 worn1 or became = any reason di/a/eful1 !y 7 replac$ by o!rs1 (t5 by gifts or spoils f fri5dly allies or conqu]$ k+s4 ,! quantity ( gold laid ^u ^! great religi\s or national works 0 ! cause ( _! de/ruction z soon z !y 7 )drawn & sup]s$$ by some?+ ( a new] fa%ion4 ,! intr9sic value 9 preci\s metals ( su* works is prov$ by ,pl9y's /atem5t t ,n]o gave f\r millions ( se/]ces = cov]s ( c\*es 9 a banquet+-hall4#deb ,! hang+s or c>pets tak5 by ! ,caliph ,om> f ,kosroes' :ite palace 7,a4,d4 #fea7 mu/ h be5 "s ( ! f9e/ & mo/ valuable embroid]ies ev] kn[n4 ,!y =m$ a tape/ry c>pet or hang+1 repres5t+ all ! fl[]s ( spr+1 work$ 9 col\r$ silks1 gold1 & preci\s /ones4 ,kosroes entreat$ ,om> to keep x intact = himself1 b he 0 s virtu\s t he cut x up into little bits & divid$ x among/ 8 g5]als4 ,gibbon describes ?is wond]ful piece ( "w4#dec ,we h he>d mu* ( a m>vell\s c>pet1 giv5 lately by ! ,guic[> ( ,b>oda to ! tomb ( ,mahomet at ,m$9a1 :i*1 f its description1 recalls ! /yle ( ,kosroes' hang+s2 & _! hi/ory gives u a notable in/ance ( h[ works ( art 9 ! "t ( w> & conque/ come to be consid]$ only = ! value ( _! mat]ials4 ,w>1 ! enemy ( culture1 all b effaces :ole phases ( art :5 a c\ntry is ov]run & plund]$4 ,b !re is almo/ always a residuum1 :i* has influ5ce :5ev] !re is a revival1 beg9n+ ) ! small] arts ( luxury 9 m peaceful & prosp]\s days4#ded ,to return to ! classical veils & hang+s4 ,y may see !m on ,babylonian bas-reliefs1 on ,greek fictile vases1 or pa9t$ 9 frescoes on ! walls ( ,egyptian tombs & temples2 9 ! h\ses 9 ,pompeii & ,h]culaneum1 & 9 ! rema9s ( ,roman villas & tombs ev]y:]e4 ,f all ( ^! we may le>n some?+4 ,! obvi\s int5tion ( hang+s 9 h\sehold decoration is to cov] b>e walls1 s z to adorn at once t :i* 0 r\gh or common1 )\t delay or tr\ble4 ,!y 7 also us$ z curta9s to %ut out ! cold or ! heat1 & to give privacy to rooms )\t doors or w9d[s4 ,hang+s on b>e walls h always be5 meant to hang /raight d[n1 undi/urb$ by folds1 :]eas curta9s & portires w\ld probably h to be loop$ up or cont9ually drawn aside4 ,! designs to be work$ ^u !m %\ld necess>ily be regulat$ by _! %ape & use4 ,semp] consid]s t a squ>e is an expressionless =m1 & t x %\ld be avoid$4#dee ,if y wi% to give dignity to a room1 its hang+ decorations %\ld be divid$ into panels ( great] height ?an bread?1 s z to elevate ! spaces !y cov]4 ,horizontal /ripes br+ d[n ! ceil+1 & ev5 9 furniture1 look ill except z bord]s4 ,no?+ c be m ugly or in>ti/ic ?an ! curta9s "o f9ds 9 old illum9ations1 cov]$ ) b&s ( ! same patt]n ?r\gh\t ! surface1 b ev5 ?is is less unpleasant on ! walls ?an l9es cross+ ea* o!r at "r angles4 ,! ,romans look$ on *equ]s z b>b>\s national *>act]i/ics1 & left !m to ! ,gauls & ,britons4 ,*equ]s %\ld be avoid$ unless !y express a mean+1 z 9 ,scot* t>tans4 ,semp] obs]ves t ! /rip$ /uffs1 especially ^? ( ,ori5tal fabrics1 7 nev] int5d$ to be spread out flat1 b to be drap$ 9 folds & loops1 & ! l9es only se5 brok5 up4 ,he cont9ues3--,"o rule1 :i* _c be neglect$ ) impunity1 is ?is3 t :e!r ! hang+ or scre5 is suppos$ to /& or to hang1 !re mu/ be an above & a bel[ to e patt]n1 & x mu/1 moreov]1 be upright4 ,all foliage designs1 & ^? conta9+ animals1 mu/ />t f bel[1 & gr[ upw>ds4 ,ano!r ( 8 laws is t ! heavie/ col\rs %\ld be plac$ bel[1 & ! pale/ & brighte/ above4 ,?is may be disput$4 ,x mu/ be fir/ det]m9$ :]e contra/ is ne$$4 ,if ! d>ke/ "p ( ! patt]n is bel[1 x may be necess>y to give x ! lighte/ backgr\nd1 on ! pr9ciple ( balanc+ quantities 9 col\r4 ,! dado1 or l[e/ bord]1 w (t5 give ! necess>y weight to ! design4 ,semp] goes on to say1 ,a surface may be made to appe> to /&1 or to hang d[n1 accord+ to its decoration4 ,= in/ance1 a triangle w hang or /&1 accord+ z its apex po9ts d[nw>ds or upw>ds4 ,b 9 drap$ curta9s all symmetry ( design is lo/1 & ! ri* =ms & fulness ( folds r t5d to de/roy ! effect ( elaborate patt]ns1 & to take _! place4 ,ano!r important diff]5ce betwe5 /&+ & hang+ tape/ries is _! f9i% or edge1 ! upp] "o be+ an upright cont9u\s bord]1 & ! l[] "o a fr+e4 ,9 bo? cases x is a cont9uation ( ! ma9 ?reads ( ! mat]ial1 & ^! belong exclusively to ! hang+ tape/ries & curta9s4 ,! fr+e is s ess5tial a "p ( hang+ decoration1 t we mu/ pause & give x our be/ consid]ation4 ,9 ,babylonian art x is mo/ important4 ,! extreme solidity ( ! knott$ fr+es 9 _! dress & hang+s %[ ei!r ! ?ickness ( ! wov5 sub/ance1 or t ! fr+es 7 made by enri*+ ! w>p & add+ to x4 ,!y are almo/ always1 on ! ,assyrian sculptures1 simply knott$ fr+es2 b ! little portable ,*aldean temple on ! bronze gates f ,balawat 7ne> ,nimr\d71 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 %[s fr+es ( bells or fruit l ^? ( ! ,jewi% tab]nacle 9 ! wild]ness 7fig4 #b74 ,on ,egyptian l95 we sometimes see1 wov5 or work$1 a reticulat$ patt]n :i* imitates a fr+e4 ,! c>pets ( ! ,egyptians1 ,babylonians1 & ,p]sians 7 evid5tly us$ sometimes z hang+s1 ?\gh _m ( _! designs w\ld n h s]v$ bo? purposes equally well4 ,t ! ,babylonian weav]s1 h[ev]1 und]/ood t a c>pet ly+ on ! gr\nd %\ld be cov]$ ) an ev5 patt]n1 & be f9i%$ ) a bord] all r\nd1 is evid5t f ! exquisitely *isell$ designs1 imitat+ c>pets1 on two portions ( pavem5ts 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 7pl4 #bg72 & we may comp>e ^! ) ! diff]5t treatm5t ( designs = ! veils ( ! temples1 bo? 9 ,babylon & ,egypt1 on :i* 7 repres5t$ ! signs ( ! zodiac & all ! heav5ly bodies1 & o!r symbolical & unconv5tional =ms4 ,! ,atrium ( ! ,greek & ,pompeian h\ses1 :i* 0 modell$ on ! same idea1 0 sep>at$ f ! ,c\rt by curta9s1 hung on rods or nails4 ,on fe/ive occasions ^! may h be5 g>l&$ ) natural fl[]s4 ,if s1 we may be sure t ! little wrea?s work$ on !m1 z we le>n f frescoes1 w\ld comb9e ) ! gala day's decorations1 & w\ld be design$ ) t view4 ,! ,greek arti/ w\ld nev] h approv$ ( natural fl[]s or trees1 embroid]$ z if gr[+ out ( a dado1 simulat+ a g>d5 work$ 9 wool4 ,?is w\ld h be5 consid]$ a bad attempt at pictorial art4 ,m4 ,l\is de ,ron*aud1 9 8 ,tapiss]ies des ,anci5s1 speaks ( ! hang+s :i* he supposes to h deck$ ! recess t conta9$ ! *ryselephant9e /atue ( ,a!n ,p>!nos 9 h] temple at ,a!ns4 ,he says ^! votive hang+s dress$ ! pill>s t surr\nd$ ! ,hecatomp$on1 & =m$ a t5t ov] ! head ( ! goddess4 ,m4 de ,ron*aud believes t among ! subjects ( ! ,delphic embroid]ies1 describ$ by ,euripides 9 ! trag$y ( ,ion1 may be recogniz$ "s d]iv$ f ! designs on saffron-col\r$ hang+s1 spok5 ( by ! poet z ! w+s ( ! peplos4#def ,! d[nfall ( decorative art1 dome/ic z well z national1 kept pace ) ! d[nfall ( ! ,roman ,empire4 ,dur+ ! ,d>k ,ages1 ( su* art !re seems to h be5 v little2 & ( t ! be/ 0 ,celtic or ,anglo-,saxon4 ,b ! d>kness %r\ds f our view ! arti/ic life ( ! _w1 & ! dawn 0 v long 9 break+4 ,we mu/ !re=e return to ! subject ( hang+s1 aft] a gap ( ne>ly a ?\s& ye>s1 :5 ! fir/ /irr+s ( ! ,european revival came1 9 ! twelf? c5tury4#deg ,symonds says3 ,! arts & ! inv5tions1 ! k & ! books1 :i* sudd5ly became vital at ! "t ( ! ,r5aissance1 _h long la9 neglect$ on ! %ores ( t ,dead ,sea :i* we call ',! ,middle ,ages4'#deh ,!re c be no d\bt t1 dur+ ! ,d>k ,ages1 hang+s wov5 & embroid]$ cont9u$ to be ! cu/om ?r\gh\t ,europe4 ,our own ,anglo-,saxon records prove t su* furni%+s 7 employ$ to mitigate ! cold b>5ess ( our nor!rn homes f ! e>lie/ times4 ,sir ,g4 ,das5t in=ms me t 9 ,icel&ic ,sagas1 z e>ly z ! elev5? c5tury1 !re are frequ5t notices ( hang+s bo? 9 *ur*es & 9 ! halls ( h\ses2 su*1 = in/ance1 z ! ,saga ( ,*>lemagne1 i4e4 sc5es out ( ,*>lemagne's life1 work$ on hang+s #bj ells long4 ,9 ,scaldic poetry1 a p]iphrasis = a lady is ! gr\nd ( hang+s1 or ! bridge ( hang+s1 all po9t+ to embroid]y4 ,f illum9at$ ,,mss4 engrav$ 9 ,/rutt's ,antiquities ( ! ,engli%1 & contempor>y ,european "w ( ! t5? to ! ?irte5? c5turies1 we f9d t ! fav\rite /yle ( embroid]y1 :5 n repres5t+ hi/orical or sacr$ subjects1 0 a p>sem patt]n4 ,armorial be>+s 7 g5]ally res]v$ = cu%ions1 *air-backs1 & ! balda*9os ( alt>s1 b$s1 & ?rones4#dei ,ri*] & m fl[+ designs 7 lat] introduc$4 ,9 ! fifte5?1 sixte5?1 & sev5te5? c5turies1 spl5did tape/ries ( ,arras1 & hang+s ev5 ( clo? ( gold1 7 common z palatial decorations4 ,sometimes we h a glimpse ( less ambiti\s hang+s2 = in/ance1 9 ! ,london h\se ( ,sir ,&rew ,l>kynge1 ,knight1 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 ! hall 0 hung ) sage-gre5 panels1 bord]$ ) gold d>n$ "w1 & ! p>l] ) sage-gre51 bord]$ ) crimson4 ,fr5* embroid]$ hang+s 7 v f9e 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,jeanne d',albret1 ! "m ( ,h5ri ,,iv41 0 a great patroness ( su* works4 ,miss ,fre] tells u t-- ,:5 ,jeanne & ,anto9e took possession ( ! ,ca/le ( ,pau1 !y f\nd _! new abode ri* 9 works ( art & spl5did decorations4 ,! ref9$ ta/e ( ,m>gu]ite d',ang\lme 0 visible ev]y:]e4 ,jeanne's pres5ce-*amb] 0 adorn$ ) hang+s ( crimson sat91 embroid]$ by ! h& ( ,m>gu]ite h]self4 ,! embroid]y repres5t$ a passage f ! hi/ory ( ! ,que5's own life4 ,dur+ ! h\rs :i* ! ,que5 all[$ h]self = relaxation1 %e work$ tape/ry1 & disc\rs$ ) "s "o ( ! le>n$ m5 :om %e protect$4 ,! ,que5 daily att5d$ ! aft]noon s]mon1 prea*$ by h] *apla9s 9 rotation4 ,(t51 h[ev]1 we>y ) ! excess ( h] m5tal lab\rs1 & lull$ by ! dr[sy intonation ( "s ( ^! m9i/]s1 ! ,que5 slept dur+ "p ( ! disc\rse4 ,jeanne always felt sev]e reproa* ( consci5ce :5 %e _h ?us involunt>ily yield$ to fatigue2 & f9d+ ! incl9ation gr[ ^u h]1 %e dem&$ p]mission f ! ,synod to "w tape/ry dur+ ! s]mon4 ,?is reque/ 0 grant$2 & f !nce=?1 ,que5 ,jeanne1 b5d+ decor\sly ov] h] tape/ry-frame1 & busy ) h] ne$le1 gave due att5tion to ! rambl+ addresses ( h] prea*]s4 ,comme elle 7,jeanne d',albret7 e/oit gr&em5t adonne aux devises1 elle fit de sa ma9 de belles et gr&es tapiss]ies1 entre lesquelles il y a une t5te de d\ze ou qu9ze pices excell5te qui s'appelle les ,prisons brises1 p> lesquelles elle donnoit conni/re qu'elle avoit bris les li5s et sec\ le j\g de la captivit du ,pape4 ,au milieu de *aque pice1 il y a une hi/oire du ,vieu ,te/am5t qui res5t la lib]t1 comme la dlivrance de ,suzanne1 la sortie du peuple de la captivit d',egypte1 l'l>gissem5t de ,joseph4 ,et t\s les co9s il y a des *aisnes rompues1 des m5ottes brises1 des /rapades et des gibbets en pices1 et p>-dessus en grosses lettres ce sont ces p>oles de la deuxime aux ,cor9?i5s1 *4 iii43 ,ubi spiritus1 ibi lib]tas4#dfj ,cluny boa/s a mo/ curi\s suite ( hang+s f ! ,*ateau de ,b\ssac1 ( ! e>ly "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :i* are *>m+1 qua9t1 & gay1 & hi/orically & ar*ologically int]e/+4 ,!y tell ! /ory ( ! ,dame au ,lion4 ,mod]n ,fr5* tape/ries1 f ! manufactories ( ! ,savonn]ie1 ! ,gobel9s1 & else:]e1 are decorative to ! highe/ degree4 ,no?+ c be m fe/ive ?an ^! works ( ! "t ( ,l\is ,,xiii41 ,,xiv41 & ,,xv41 fram$ 9 :ite & gold1 c>v$ wood1 or /ucco1 reflect$ 9 mirrors1 & light$ by cry/al or glass *&eli]s & gir&oles4 ,su* hang+s h no?+ 9 common ) ^? ( e>ly times2 !y are n tempor>y cov]+s ( b>e spaces1 b panels 9 decorat$ walls1 :]e !y =m an integral "p ( ! ar*itectural composition & design4 ,!y d n m]ely s]ve to give w>m?1 com=t1 & col\r to desolate halls1 z did ^? anci5t tape/ries belong+ to ! furniture ( ! great man :o s5t !m on be=e him f palace to palace1 c>ry+ !m away ) 8 baggage le/ "s "o else %\ld d s 9 8 abs5ce4 ,^! 7 probably m]ely atta*$ by loops & nails1 z "o sees 9 c\ntry villas or ca/les 9 ,italy to ?is day4 ,we f9d t ! ,italians 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies (t5 hung _! walls ) upright /rips ( "w1 9 ! guise ( pila/]s4 ,! walls 7 ?us divid$ into panell$ spaces1 :i* sep>at$ pictures1 /atues1 & cab9ets1 ( :i* ! /yle did n agree 9 juxtaposition4 ,^! pila/]s 7 g5]ally ( opus consutum1 or appliqu 9 its diff]5t =ms4 ,above1 next to ! cornice1 & bel[1 next to ! dado1 or ev5 t\*+ ! floor1 !y 7 connect$ by bord]s ( simil> "w4 ,! spaces betwe5 7 mo/ly fill$ 9 ) ri* brocades or velvets ( "o col\r1 s z to make ! be/ backgr\nds = ! arti/ic treasures gr\p$ aga9/ !m4 ,sometimes f9e tape/ries fill$ ! int]v5+ spaces1 & sometimes spl5did embroid]ies4 ,!re is a beautiful example ( ?is sort ( decoration at ,holl& ,h\se1 :]e ! d9+-room is adorn$ ) pila/]s work$ on velvet 9 gold & col\r$ silks1 ) tape/ries betwe5 !m4 ,?is is ,flor5t9e "w1 ( ! sixte5? or beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,hang+s entirely 9 ne$lework1 to cov] l>ge spaces1 are r>e1 b a few are to be f\nd all ov] ,europe 9 museums1 palaces1 & private h\ses1 :i* are int]e/+ z objects ( art4 ,! g5ealogical tree ( ! ,c\nts ( ,kyburg1 design$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & c>ri$ to ,france z plund]1 & n[ re/or$ to its home ne> ,zuri*1 is a rem>kable in/ance ( a piece ( ne$lework t des]v$ ! value plac$ on x4 ,_m spl5did pieces ( embroid]$ tape/ries are at ! ,cluny ,museum4 ,! beatitudes ( ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 f ! ca/le at ,t>rascon1 & ! hang+s work$ 9 appliqu & flat /it*es ) portraits ( ,h5ri ,,iv41 ,jeanne d',albret1 c41 are monum5ts ( indu/ry1 & design2 & are v beautiful4 ,!re1 is a l>ge room at ,ca/le ,a%by hung ) tape/ry 9 cross /it*es1 work$ by ! ladies ( ! family1 & f9i%$ #aej ye>s ago4 ,! indu/ry %[n "h is indubitable1 b ! designs are b>b>\sly bad & funny4 ,9 ! ,palazzo ,giu/9i at ,flor5ce !re is a suite ( hang+s work$ also 9 cross /it*es ( ! same p]iod1 ( :i* ! design is v clev] & graceful1 & ! effect beautiful & arti/ic4 ,an irregul> bank ( br[n e>? is cr[d$ ) grasses & small fl[]s ab\t a foot above ! dado1 & f ?is gr[ rose-bu%es1 cov]$ ) blossoms ( diff]5t %ades1 held back to a treillage ( delicate cane col\rs4 ,! leafage is br[n1 aga9/ a sky t is n blue1 b :i* r rem9ds "o ( blue ?an ( grey4 ,x is conv5tionally treat$1 & ! effect is s+ul>ly ri* & h>moni\s4 ,_h x be5 a little m naturali/ic1 x w\ld h look$ too mu* l a pa9t$ picture2 b z x is1 ! decoration is *>m+1 & s univ]sally admir$ t we _c b wond] x has nev] be5 imitat$4 ,9 ! ,borghese ,palace at ,rome !re is a ball-room hung ) :ite sat9 embroid]$ ) wrea?s ( fl[]s1 & a simil> "o 9 ! ,caetani ,palace1 on crimson sat94 ,^! are ab\t #aej ye>s old1 & are s f> above be+ m]e objects ( fa%ion1 t !y mu/ be plac$ by _! beauty ( design & execution among/ objects ( art1 & s w probably survive m c5turies ( *ange1 hold+ _! own1 & increas+ 9 value & e/eem4 ,= hang+s 9 *ur* decoration1 ! read] is ref]r$ to ! *apt]s on ecclesia/ical art & on tape/ry4 ,hav+ discuss$ ! orig9 & reason = hang+s1 & hav+ tri$ to draw f :at has be5 accept$ z beautiful & p]fect 9 ta/e1 "s guidance 9 hang+ our mod]n rooms1 suppos+ always t ! spaces are fitt$ = really f9e decorations1 ,i yet w\ld add a few m words on ?is subject4 ,!re are 9 g5]al "s previ\s conditions :i* w help u to *oose ! /yle & design ( su* furni%+s4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 we %\ld /udy :at is appropriate to ! p]sons :o w fir/ inhabit ! rooms4 ,! bride's ap>tm5t may be :ite & gold1 g>l&$ ) roses1 & gay ) gr\ps ( ,cupids2 b su* prett9esses w\ld n be suitable to ! home ( a m\rn+ ,que54 ,t5d] or subdu$ col\r+ equally sets (f gr\ps ( "y & lovely faces1 & ! b5t =m rob$ 9 black4 ,embroid]ies are always agreeable on su* backgr\nds1 & x is z a vehicle = ne$lework t ,i n[ allude to ! design ( ! arti/ 9 hang+s4 ,we are some:at re/rict$1 or we ought to be1 :5 !re are treasures ( art already 9 ! h\se1 by ! desire to exhibit !m to ! be/ advantage4 ,! hang+s %\ld be ( a col\r :i* suits all pictures1 & if ! walls are ei!r embroid]$ or tape/ri$ ) wov5 designs1 !y %\ld be v mu* subdu$1 bo? 9 =m & col\r1 s z n to prev5t ! eye f p]ceiv+ at once ! preci\s objects hung aga9/ !m4 ,a f9e brocade or velvet ( "o col\r suits pictures be/2 b if our object is to %[ (f our cab9ets1 :i* are g5]ally black1 & our /atues1 :i* are mo/ly :ite1 !n ri*ly embroid]$ backgr\nds 9 brilliant col\rs are ! be/1 comp5sat+ ! eye 9 v>iety & spl5d\r4 ,,footnotes3 #dch ,! wom5 :o wove ! hang+s = ! grove 7 probably prie/esses ( ! wor%ip ( ,a/>te 7#b ,k+s xxiii4 #g74 #dci ,he says t )9 ! sacr$ %r9e 0 reveal$ _! god--a bea/ roll+ on a purple c\*--veil$ ) gold embroid]$ hang+s2 & he describes ! magnific5t temples1 gleam+ ) gold1 silv]1 & electrum4 ,quot$ f ,clem5s ,alex&r9us1 9 ,r5\f's ,hibb]t ,lectures1 p4 #b4 #ddj ,f9e l95 ) broid]$ "w f ,egypt 0 t :i* ?\ spreade/ =? to be ?y sail4--,ezekiel xxvii4 #g4 ,egyptian sails 7 wov5 & pa9t$2 sometimes !y 7 blazon$ ) embroid]$ patt]ns4 ,! ,phnix 0 set !re to indicate ! travell]'s return4 ,see ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 vol4 iii41 ed4 #ahcg1 p4 #baa4 #dda ,see ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 vol4 i4 p4 #bgc4 #ddb ,! figure-pa9t+ ( ! nations we h spok5 (1 successful s f> z x conc]ns its special purpose ( exhibit+ a cle> & compreh5sive *ronicle ( ev5ts1 is at ! same "t no m1 s f> z x conc]ns its arti/ic effect1 ?an a piece ( tape/ry or embroid]y done into /one1 & c only be e/imat$ 444 z a piece ( col\r$ wall decoration4 ,woltmann & ,wo]mann1 ,hi/ory ( ,pa9t+1 ,eng4 ,trans41 pp4 #bc-cj4 ,see also ,p]rot & ,*ipiez1 ,hi/oire de l',art dans l',antiquit1 = tile decorations at ,nimr\d2 vol4 ii4 p4 #gjd4 #ddc ,comp>e ?is record ) ,solomon's veil = ! ,temple1 ( blue1 & purple1 & crimson1 & f9e l95 7#b ,*ron4 iii4 #ad71 & ! hang+s design$ by ,bezaleel1 ( sc>let1 blue1 purple1 & embroid]$ ) gold 7,exod4 xxxix4 #b1 #c1 #e2 see also ,josephus1 ,w>s ( ! ,jews1 ,:i/on's trans41 p4 #hie74 #ddd ,z cit$ f ,abulf$a by ,gibbon1 *ap4 lii4 ix4 p4 #cg1 ed4 #agig4 ,:5 "o is mov$ to pity1 ?9k+ ( ! en=c$ lab\r ( ?\s&s ( captive wom51 fall51 p]haps1 f high e/ate1 & only valu$ = ! toil ( _! h&s1 x com=ts "o to believe t !y w\ld h>dly h produc$ beautiful works )\t enjoy+ "s happ9ess 9 ! creation ( t beauty4 #dde ,yule's ,m>co ,polo1 vol4 i4 p4 #cid1 note #g4 #ddf ,see ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 pp4 #caj1 #caa2 ,*>es1 ap4 ,a!n4 xii4 #ed1 p4 #ech4 #ddg ,semp]'s ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #caa2 ,a!n4 v4 #be1 p4 #aif4 #ddh ,phyl>*us1 ap4 ,a!n4 xii4 #ee1 describes a ,p]sian t5t 9 :i* 7 gold5 palm-trees1 & v9es fruit$ ) preci\s /ones1 "u :i* ! ,p]sian k+s held _! /ate4 ,on an ,assyrian sculpture at ! ,briti% ,museum is se5 ,assurbanipal on a c\*1 ! que5 opposite to him1 "u an arb\r ( jewell$ v9es2 unless x repres5ts a rural ent]ta9m5t1 :i* is unlikely4 #ddi ,! art ( ! tapezzi]e1 tapissi]1 tape/ry-hang]1 is n a recogniz$ "o ) u1 ?\gh x is 9 ,italy & ,france1 :]e ! hang+s = special occasions 9 *ur*es & h\ses are /or$ away1 treasur$ = hundr$s ( ye>s1 clean$ & m5d$1 & hung & plac$ to ! be/ advantage by m5 educat$ = ! purpose4 ,9 poor *ur*es :i* possess no f9e mat]ials = decoration1 "o has (t5 wond]$ at & admir$ ! picturesque effects extract$ f y>ds ( musl91 gold t9sel1 & box wrea?s1 arti/ically comb9$4 ,our h\se c>p5t] is ! only repres5tative we h ( ! ve/i>ius1 & he is b a feeble desc5dant f ! ance/ors ( 8 craft1 :o 7 expect$ to /udy & evolve ! adornm5ts ( ! build+ = its completion1 ! mat]ials ( decoration = special occasions1 & la/ly1 ! me*anical means = hang+ & /ret*+ ! drap]ies4 ,^! 7 sometimes movable frames or po/s--scabella 7:5ce escabeau1 *afaudage1 scaffold+74 #dej ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 pp4 #cad1 #cae4 #dea ,nev] aga9 w su* great works be execut$ ) ! ne$le4 ,9 civiliz$ c\ntries1 sov]eign spl5d\rs are at a disc\nt4 ,! ,ea/ occasionally produces some?+ f9e1 because !re !y /ill h h>ems & slaves2 b ev5 ^! anci5t in/itutions are los+ _! /ability & 9 ! int]e/ ( humanity1 if n 9 t ( ne$lework1 we may soon hope !re w be nei!r ! "o nor ! o!r4 ,we mu/ all[1 h[ev]1 t ! purple & gold embroid]ies n[ be+ execut$ = ! ,k+ ( ,bav>ia 9 8 s*ool at ,muni* are royally spl5did1 &1 by _! execution1 wor?y ( pa/ days4 #deb ,pl9y1 viii4 #dd1 #aif4 #dec ,gibbon's ,roman ,hi/ory1 ix4 c4 #ea1 p4 #cgj1 ed4 #agig2 also see ,cri*ton's ,hi/ory ( ,arabia1 i4 p4 #chc4 #ded ,! utt] disp]sal ( accumulat$ family & h\sehold treasures has _h a sad illu/ration 9 ! loads ( ,turki% & ,slav embroid]ies :i* h flood$ ! m>kets ( ,europe s9ce ! ,russo-,turki% w>4 ,"w1 treasur$ = g5]ations1 sold = a piece ( bread1 robb$ f ! des]t$ home or ! baza>1 /ol5 f ! dy+ or ! dead4 ,^! are s sugge/ive ( ! horrors ( w>1 & t\* u s ne>ly 9 connection ) ! rights & wrongs ( ! ,ea/]n "q1 t !y cause u m pa9 ?an pleasure :5 we /udy ^! beautiful specim5s ( well-bl5d$ col\rs & designs1 t %[ _! ,aryan 7,p]sian or ,indian7 orig94 ,lady ,lay>d's resid5ce 9 ,con/ant9ople 01 p]haps1 ! happy accid5t :i* w h pres]v$ ! secrets & practice ( ?is "w = future g5]ations1 by h] active & g5]\s in/itution ( a work+ organization = ! poor exil$ & />v+ wom51 & = ! sale ( _! "w 9 ,engl&4 #dee ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 i4 p4 #cj1 #aj4 #def ,?is subject has be5 ably treat$ 9 ! ,introduction to ,la ,tapiss]ie1 by ,eug4 ,mntz2 ,p>is1 #ahhe4 #deg ,i ref] to ! *apt] on ,engli% ,embroid]ies = ! p>sem patt]ns ( our m$ival hang+s1 & to ! section on tape/ry 9 ! *apt] on ,/it*es4 #deh ,r5aissance 9 ,italy1 ,j4 ,a4 ,symonds1 p4 #d4 #dei ,b to ?is rule !re are notable exceptions1 ( :i* ,*>les ! ,bold's hang+s = 8 t5t 7n[ at ,b]ne7 furni% a brilliant example4 ,"h ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece is repeat$ on a field ( fl[]s1 exquisitely design$4 #dfj ,life ( ,jeanne d',albret1 by ,miss ,fre]1 pp4 #fh1 #abc1 #ccj4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,furniture4 ,jane1 ,i hate /hetic c>pets2 ,high-art curta9s make me swe>4 ,pray cease hunt+ = ! late/ ,que5 ,anne *air4 ,i c>e no?+ = improvem5ts1 ,on ! simple /yle ( ,snell1 ,:i* w suit bo? y & me ex- tremely well4 ,,rob]t ,,cu/1 ,p>ody ( ! ,la/ ,ode ( ! ,fir/ ,book ( ,horace4 ,fir/1 z y "k1 my h\se )9 ! city ,is ri*ly furni%'d ) plate & gold2 ,basons & ew]s1 to lave h] da9ty h&s2 ,my hang+s all ( ,tyrian tape/ry2 ,9 ivory c(f]s ,i h /uff'd my cr[ns2 ,9 cyprus *e/s my arras1 c\nt]po9ts1 ,f9e l951 ,turkey cu%ions boss'd ) pe>l1 ,co/ly app>el1 t5ts & canopies1 ,valance ( ,v5ice gold1 9 ne$lework2 ,pewt] & brass1 & all ?+s t belong ,to h\se1 or h\sekeep+4 ,,%akespe>e1 ,tam+ ( ! ,%rew1 ,act ,,ii41 ,sc5e ,i4 ,! la/ *apt] on hang+s1 _! hi/ory & uses1 & ! prec$+ acc\nt ( tape/ries1 naturally lead to ! consid]ation ( ! furniture :i* may accompany !m4 ,hom]'s description ( ,p5elope's bridal c\* is v curi\s4 ,! c5tral idea is ! b$po/1 fa%ion$ out ( ! /em ( an olive-tree gr[+ 9 ! c\rt1 & inlaid by ,ulysses himself ) gold1 silv]1 & ivory1 & b&s ( dy$ purple ox-hide4 ,! /one walls & ro( 7 built ov] to cov] x 91 z x /ood yet root$ 9 ! gr\nd4#dfa ,! illu/ration is a v qua9t del9eation ( a ,*aldean f\r-room$ h\se1 :]e ! root$ tree ) its /em & bran*es is sugge/ive ( ! /ate ( ! dome/ic art ( ! ar*itect & ! uphol/]] 9 ^? ,ar*aic days4#dfb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,assyrian del9eation ( ,*aldean ,h\se4 ,furniture has be5 ! excuse & ! vehicle = embroid]ies1 f ! foot/ool & ! cu%ion to ! w9d[ curta9 & ! b$-hang+s4#dfc ,su* curta9s are ! mo/ p]man5tly important features 9 ! economy1 or r ! luxury ( ! h\se4 ,let u beg9 ) ! decorations ( ! /ate b$room4 ,n[ ! %ape ( ! b$ mu/ regulate ! design4 ,if !re is only a canopy--l t ov] a ?rone--"o may h f9e "w = ! head ( ! b$ inside ! canopy1 & a ri* bord] r\nd its valance2 ?is %\ld contra/ ) ! walls2 & ! curta9s %\ld m>ry ! two toge!r1 by ! embroid]$ bord]s belong+ to ! fa%ion ( ! b$1 & accompany+ ! w9d[ curta9s2 :ile ! pla9 surface %\ld mat* ) ! wall hang+s4 ,ano!r me?od is to h ! b$ & curta9s hung ) pla9 mat]ials1 to contra/ ) embroid]$ or tape/ri$ hang+s on ! walls4 ,?is /yle ( b$ canopy absolutely belongs to ! decoration ( ! wall to :i* x is atta*$4 ,b :5 we h to deal ) a l>ge f\r-po/ b$--a room )9 a room1 z poor ,pr9ce ,lee ,boo said--! b$ may1 9 its own decoration1 be totally indep5d5t ( ! wall hang+s2 & c>e mu/ be tak5 t we d n injure ! effect ( bo? by too mu* contra/ or too mu* simil>ity4 ,e room has its own individuality1 & ! fir/ beg9n+ ( its decoration mu/ be ! key-note to guide ! re/ ( ! furni%+ & adornm5t4 ,i am anxi\s to po9t out t ! b$ & its belong+s are a mo/ important elem5t 9 ! beauty & dignity ( /yle ( ! room & ! h\se t conta9s x4 ,x is a spl5did opportunity = display+ ! embroid]ies ( ! wom5 ( ! family1 & = ex]cis+ _! ta/e4 ,! *amb] ( ,dais1 z x 0 call$ 9 old times1 0 always c>efully adorn$ = ! welcome ( ! hon\r$ gue/4 ,! b$-hang+s1 & ev5 ! l951 7 embroid]$1#dfd & ! greate/ c>e & ! mo/ arti/ic "w 7 lavi%$ on ! cov]let 9 firm /it*es & twi/$ ?reads1 :ile on ! curta9s ! fraile/ mat]ials & mo/ delicate /it*es 7 freely be/[$1 z !y 7 safe f friction4 ,we may employ floss-silk & sat9-/it* = su* works ) safety4 ,z a rule we %\ld avoid too great a v>iety ( design 9 ! decoration ( a b$room1 & at ! same "t bew>e ( its becom+ monoton\s4 ,i %\ld say t a *ange 9 ! design1 ?\gh n 9 ! /yle1 ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! b$ is admissible1 & gives opportunities = ri* & graceful "w4 ,= in/ance1 a p>sem patt]n may be v>i$ judici\sly on ! curta9s1 ! valance1 & ! head+2 provid$ !re is a connect+ l9k 7say a cyph]7 f\nd ?r\gh\t4 ,if ! back ( ! ,balda*9o is embroid]$1 x admits ( totally diff]5t treatm5t1 & ! valance mu/ include a bord] accord+ to its outl9e4 ,! +5uity & magnific5ce ( ! ,elizabe?an b$room furni%+s are prov$ by ! inv5tories to be f\nd 9 old h\ses4 ,^? describ+ ! prop]ty ( ! ,e>l ( ,leice/]1 9 ! ,libr>y at ,longleat1 are s *>act]i/ic ( a "t :5 ea* room conta9$ arti/ic furniture1 t ,i _c help mak+ "h "s extracts1 & po9t+ out t embroid]y 0 usually employ$ to individualize ea* decoration4 ,at ,kill+wor? 7,k5ilwor?7 ,"l ,leice/]'s ,b$/eads4 ,a fayre1 ri*1 /&+ ,squ>e ,b$/ead ( c>v$ walnut-tree wood3 pa9t$ ) silv] he>ts1 ragg$ /aves & roses4 ,! furniture & te/e crimson velvet embroid]$ ) silv] roses1 & l9$ ?r\gh\t ) ,buckram4 ,!re 0 app>5tly a second set ( curta9s inside ( /rip$ :ite sat91 trimm$ & fr+$ ) silv]1 & ! velvet curta9s 7 also fr+$ ) silv] ) long buttons & loops4 ,ano!r b$/ead is describ$1 ) ! pill>s pa9t$ r$1 & v>ni%$4 ,! te/e & curta9s ( r$ silk edg$ ) gold & silv] bone lace1 & embroid]$ 9 a bord] ( hops1 roses1 & pomegranates4 ,ano!r ,b$/ead pa9t$ r$ & gold1 & v>ni%$2 ) crimson velvet1 gold & silv] 9 bread?s1 embroid]$ ov] ) r$1 gold1 & silv]1--l9$ ) ,milion 7,milan7 fu/ian1 c41 c4 ,! catalogue ( ! tape/ries & embroid]$ hang+s include fifte5 suites at ,k5ilwor? only2 & ?ree o!r h\ses are equally well provid$4 ,! gr\nd ( "o ( ^! suites ( five pieces ( embroid]y1 ( animals & fl[]s1 is describ$ z be+ ,/annel clo? l9$ ) cannevois 7canvas74 ,ea* room has *airs1 cu%ions1 c>pets 7:i* appe> to h cov]$ ! floor & ! tables71 & ,cab9utts 7cab9ets7 cov]$ ) embroid]ies4 ,9 a ,flor5t9e ,palace 7! ,aless&ri71 !re is a /ate ap>tm5t1#dfe :]e ! b$1 ! walls1 ! curta9s1 & ! furniture are entirely decorat$ ) ! same spl5did mat]ials1 i4e4 gold brocad$ ) crimson velvet4 ,! eye longs = "s repose amid/ ! gorge\s reit]at$ =ms & col\rs4 ,if ! b$ & curta9s _h be5 ei!r pla9 crimson velvet or embroid]y1 x w\ld h be5 mu* m beautiful4 ,?is sort ( example is a lesson & a w>n+1 :i* is valuable ev5 "u less spl5did conditions4 ,among/ our f9e ,indian embroid]ies1 ^? ( ,luckn[1 ,gulb>gah1 ,aurungabad1 & ,hyd]abad are well fitt$ = b$s & furniture4 ,^! we c /udy 9 ! ,indian ,museum1 & x seems a pity n to pr(it by1 & enc\rage ! res\rces ( our own ,empire4 ,c>pets & rugs 7 sometimes embroid]$ z well z wov5 9 patt]ns4 ,!y 7 anci5tly spread on ?rones1 c\*es & s(as1 at ent]ta9m5ts2#dff & us$ = cov]+ ! catafalques at fun]al c]emonies1 or = lay+ ov] tombs1 z is /ill ! cu/om 9 ! ,ea/4 ,we :o re/rict _! use to dome/ic purposes1 are beg9n+ to und]/& t ^! decorations look be/ :5 ! patt]ns are geometrical1 & t natural objects1 su* z rabbits & roses1 ev5 :5 conv5tionaliz$1 are unpleasant to tread ^u4 ,! s(a & *airs are s (t5 ! vehicles = embroid]y t we mu/ give !m a sep>ate %>e ( our att5tion4 ,! squ>e %apes ( ! *air-backs repeat$ sev]al times give u an opportunity = balanc+ col\rs & introduc+ =ms ( decoration :i* may be made to contra/ ) ev]y?+ else 9 ! room1 & s enhance ! g5]al effect4 ,say t ! c>pet is r$1 & ! furniture & hang+s are ( t5d] brok5 t9ts1 x w be a pleasure to ! eye if ! cu%ions on ! s(a & ! *airs & seats are panell$ ) a deep] or light] col\r ?an ! c>pet1 b always repos+ ! eye by contra/+ pla9 surfaces ) ri*ness ( design4 ,!n ! foot/ool or cu%ion %\ld break away entirely f ! c>pet on :i* x lies1 t ! poor ?+ may be sp>$ ! kick x inv>iably receives1 :5 ! ma/] ( ! h\se has tripp$ ov] its invisible pres5ce4 ,= furniture1 ! cu%ion /it*es1 i4e4 canvas & cross /it*es1 are c]ta9ly ! be/4 ,!y are ! mo/ endur+1 z !y be> friction )\t fray+2 & are !re=e1 9 ?is case1 pref]able to sat9 /it*es1 :i* are liable to be spoilt by contact1 & give ! lady ( ! h\se1 :o is probably ! arti/1 a pang ea* "t an hon\r$ gue/ occupies ! com=table *air embroid]$ 9 floss silk1 unaw>e t x is an /hetic inve/m5t1 & t a p]c5tage ( its beauty is disappe>+ e "t x is br\ght into collision ) broadclo?4#dfg ,?is br+s u to ! subject ( ! cov]s call$ h\sses by ,fr5* uphol/]]s1 & :i* may come "u ! head ( small decorations1 or r1 ( petty disfigurem5ts4 ,! ?+s :i* w5t by ! horrid "n ( antimacass>s h1 h[ev]1 giv5 way to *air-backs1 & cro*et has be5 displac$ by l95 veils work$ 9 crewels4 ,?is is a /ep 9 ! "r direction4 ,no well-regulat$ eye c\ld d o!rwise ?an suff] f ! gl>+ :ite patt]ns ( cro*et-"w1 m\nt$ aggressively on ! back ( e *air 9 ! room1 z a buff] betwe5 x & ! human head & %\ld]s4 ,! sugge/ion 0 disagreeable1 & ! pres5t *air-back /ill recalls x4 ,to reconcile u to its use1 x mu/ be sp>+ly us$1 & arti/ically dispos$4 ,! antimacass> is a rema9+ sign ( ! ov]lap ( dress & mann]s4 ,our great-gr&mo!rs embroid]$ ! *airs1 & valu$ !m exce$+ly1 & nev] w\ld h contemplat$ t !y %\ld be soil$ by a male or female head ly+ back ^u !m4 ,true1 !y wore p[d] & pomatum !n--b !y nev] leant back2 su* a solace1 & solecism 9 mann]s1 0 res]v$ = ! privacy ( ! b$room & ! arm-*air cov]$ ) cotton piqu or wa%+ *9tz4 ,"u ! new mann]s1 & s9ce ! introduction ( ! graceful l\nge1 ! antimacass> d\btless has sav$ _m ance/ral works1 b n[adays we we> nei!r p[d] nor pomatum4 ,on ! contr>y1 we dye1 dry1 & frizzle our hair till x might s]ve z a bru% to remove any du/ x enc\nt]$1 & x spoils no?+4 ,! table-cov] is a s\rce ( endless v>iety2#dfh on ! :ole ,i %\ld recomm5d "h pla9 surfaces & deep bord]s4 ,! articles ?r[n on ! table are be/ set (f by pla9 gr\nds4 ,! col\r ( ! table-cov] may be a te/ ( arti/ic ta/e1 & may make or m> ! :ole effect ( ! furni%+s ( ! room1 especially if x is newly acquir$1 9 ord] to enliv5 ! fad+ glories ( ance/ral ta/e4 ,! ,scre54--,?is evid5tly began its exi/5ce z a curta9 hung on a movable frame = ! purpose ( divid+ l>ge *amb]s = sep>ate uses4#dfi ,! ,*9ese seem to h be5 ! fir/ to /ret* ! curta9 tight ov] ! frame1 mak+ x a fixture1 & (t5 an actual p>tition1 pa9t$ ) pictures by bru% or ne$le4 ,to our mod]n home1 ! scre5 9 a l>ge room1 gives a s5se ( snugness1 & is an actual necessity = keep+ (f ! draughts drift+ 9 ?r\gh ill-fitt+ w9d[-frames & doors2 & at ! same "t s]v+ /hetically z a backgr\nd to high *airs & tables heap$ ) objects ( art1 & tall vases ( fl[]s4 ,! high scre5 gr\ps & unites ! pictures ( active & /ill life ar\nd x2 & mean:ile ! little fire-scre5s are p]=m+ ! m]ciful s]vice ( sav+ ! complexions ( our daught]s f be+ sacrific$ to ,molo* 9 front ( our scor*+ coal fires4 ,i ne$ n recomm5d ^! z fit surfaces = embroid]y--!y (f] !mselves to x2 & ! ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework is a liv+ witness to h[ mu* !y are appreciat$ & h[ l>gely employ$4 ,on ! scre51 decorative ambition is p]mitt$ to rise to pictorial art4 ,no?+ 9 furniture is pretti] ?an ! scre5 cov]$ ) ref9$ ne$le pa9t+1 ei!r arabesqu$ or naturali/ic4 ,y may v>y ! designs to any ext5t1 ei!r z l>ge pictures cov]+ _m folds1 or 9 small pictures repeat$ or v>i$ on ea*4 ,"h design to individualize ! liv+-room comes into play1 & is mo/ conspicu\s = good or = evil effect4 ,among/ ! occasional furni%+s ( ! home1 we w\ld in/ance embroid]$ curta9s to veil pictures1 :i* are p]haps too sacr$ to expose to ! g5]al eye4 ,we "k h[ (t5 9 *ur*es & sacri/ies on ! ,cont95t1 "o1 or ev5 two veils h to be )drawn be=e ! holy & preci\s picture is display$4 ,we h se5 ^! little curta9s beautifully work$ s z to =m by _! design a picture 9 ! space !y cov]4 ,crimson silk is p]haps work$ 9 gold & col\rs = a gilt frame1 & :ite & silv] )9 ebony or walnut sett+s4 ,i w\ld recomm5d ?is /yle ( "w to ! consid]ation ( our decorators4 ,x is int]e/+ to f9d 9 an old catalogue at ,hampton ,c\rt1 h[ pictures ( sacr$ subjects 7 ?us dec5tly veil$1 9 ! pr(an] mom5ts ( c\rt gaieties4#dgj ,embroid]$ book cov]+s 7 (t5 v beautiful1 ei!r z simply clo?+ ! bo>ds1 or :5 f9i%$ ) metal-"w corn]s1 backs1 & clasps4 ,i quote ! foll[+ l9es1 said to h be5 writt5 by ,tasso on a case = a book1 embroid]$ = him by ,leonora d',e/e3-- ,que/o prezioso dono1 ,*' orn> coll' ago ad ,eleanora piacque1 ,lo vidde ,aracne1 e tacque4 ,or se la mano1 *e la piaga f al core1 ,si bello f d' amore il dolce lab]9to1 ,come uscirne potro1 se non e/9to8 ,9 ! catalogue ( ,*>les ,v4's libr>y1 ! mat]ials us$ = b9d+s are ?us nam$3 ,soie veluyau1 sat9 damas1 taffetas1 camelot1 c5dal1 & drap d'or2 & _m 7 embroid]$4 ,tact1 discretion1 & k are requir$ :5 we und]take to adorn ! home to be liv$ 92 & :ile employ+ ! art ( embroid]y to embelli% x1 we mu/ nev] =get t h>mony1 & ! abs5ce ( any?+ />tl+1 t5ds to ! gr&iose z well z ! com=table4 ,bright bits ( col\r+ %\ld be res]v$ = pictorial art1 or = small objects1 su* z cu%ions & /ools4 ,if = ! g5]al t9t blue be *os51 let x be ei!r pure pale col\r1 l ! !r1 or a s(t "o1 pale or d>k1 su* z indigo2 b ! />tl+ anil9e blues %\ld be avoid$ z be+ (f5sive to ! n]ves ( ! eye4 ,if r$ be ! f\ndation col\r1 let x be ,v5etian r$1 "p sc>let1 "p crimson2 or pure crimson 7,tyrian purple71 or pure sc>let 7co*9eal74 ,nev] employ sc>let ) a yell[ t+e2 x may n affect y\rself1 b x is bl9d+ to _m eyes4 ,avoid brickdu/1 :i* is simply a dirty mixture ( e>?y col\rs4 ,( gre5 !re are few %ades t are n beautiful1 soo?+1 & m or less fitt$ = a backgr\nd to ne$lework4 ,olive-gre51 sea-gre51 pea-gre51 em]ald-gre51 & sage-gre51--,nature tea*es u h[ ^! h>monize toge!r & ) all o!r col\rs4 ,only ars5ical gre5 is impracticable & repulsive4 ,yell[1 pale z a primrose1 gl[+ z gold1 or t5d] z butt]1 is always beautiful2 b "o t9t we w\ld exclude f our li/1 call$ buff1 :i* nev] c assimilate ) any o!r col\r1 & is (t5 ! refuge ( ! weak-m9d$ man t _c face ! responsibility ( *oos+ an atmosph]e 9 :i* he w h to sp5d _m h\rs ( 8 exi/5ce1 :5 ! walls1 ! ceil+1 & ! hang+s w inevitably obta9 a subtle1 b real influ5ce on 8 n]ves2 :i*1 9 ! case ( buff1 w be t ( a yell[ fog1 :ile pale primrose w h ! effect ( e>ly sunrise1 & pure gold t ( sunset4 ,a rule to be respect$ is t decoration %\ld be repos+ in/ead ( excit+4 ,! unexpect$1 :i* is an elem5t 9 ! enjoym5t ( :at is new1 %\ld be su* z to become ! m agreeable ! long] we are accu/om$ to x4 ,mr4 ,morris's gold5 rule is ?is3 ,h no?+ 9 y\r h\ses t y d n "k to be useful or believe to be beautiful4#dga ,9 decorative art1 & !re=e 9 embroid]y1 ! fir/ object to consid] is beauty--beauty 9 conception1 proportion1 draw+1 & col\r4 ,i w\ld n h x ?\ght t ,i am plac+ our second>y art too high1 & giv+ x too mu* importance1 :5 ,i apply to x ! fir/ ess5tial rules ( art2 b "o ( ^! furni%es my excuse4 ,x is t ! simple/ & smalle/ creation %\ld be z faultless z ! greate/ & gr&e/4 ,n[ beauty _c be obta9$1 ev5 9 little works1 )\t proportion 9 size1 h>mony & balance 9 col\r1 & correctness 9 =m1 & ^! require ! c>eful /udy ( fir/ pr9ciples4 ,proportion 9 size is mo/ important1 bo? z reg>ds ourselves & our surr\nd+s--objectively & subjectively4 ,:5 our ma/]s1 ! ,greeks1 wi%$ to express =ce & maje/y1 !y sculptur$ _! gods ( une>?ly size1 l>g] ?an _! h]oes1 :o yet exce$$ 9 /ature _! human models4 ,! /atue ( ! god plac$ 9 ! temple 0 ! l>ge/ object se51 & ! delicacy & ref9em5t ( ! details 9 dress1 ?rone1 & base only enhanc$ ! effect ( maje/ic proportion4 ,9 ! temple m5 7 to be rem9d$ ( _! own no?+ness4 ,9 ! gymnasium1 & on ! racec\rse1 & at ! public games1 ! surr\nd+ pictures & /atues 7 all int5d$ to excite ambition by %[+ m5 ! h]oic size to be atta9$ by ! aw>ds ( fame4 ,b at home1 9 ! h\se1 man is already supreme1 & ne$s no inc5tive to ass]t himself1 & no tall /&>d by :i* he may be measur$4 ,! ,l>es & ,p5ates !mselves 7 v small objects to look at1 :atev] may h be5 ! ?\ghts !y sugge/$4 ,no?+ is s al>m+ or unpleasant z gigantic figures work$ 9 tape/ry or embroid]y4 ,& if ev5 ! gu>dian gods ( ! h\se 7 kept 9 due subjection z to size1 :y n all decorations1 & especially ^? repres5t+ ! fl[]s ( ! field8 ,c]ta9ly 9 work$ decorations fl[]s %\ld be no l>g] ?an 9 nature--p]haps on ! :ole !y are be/ r small]4 ,botanical mon/rosities on ! wall dw>f ! fl[]s 9 a b[-pot ne> !m1 & nature has h] own lovely proportions1 :i* %\ld be /udi$ & respect$4 ,^! rem>ks1 ( c\rse1 apply exclusively to dome/ic decoration1 :i* is ! special object ( our art1 & = ! guidance ( :i* ! sugge/ions conta9$ 9 ?is *apt] are int5d$4 ,i w\ld /rongly advocate ! return to ! old sy/em = ! production ( l>ge embroid]ies4 ,if ladies w\ld design1 or h design$ = !m1 curta9s or tape/ries1 & let ! "w-frame be ! p]man5t occupi] ( ! morn+ sitt+-room1 !y might at lea/ comm5ce works t memb]s ( ! family or fri5ds might cont9ue & complete at _! leisure2 & %\ld !y at any "t hang fire1 a ne$lewoman or clev] pr(essional work] might be call$ 9 to help to f9i% x4 ,?us ladies might assi/ ! art ( ne$lework by _! own orig9al ideas1 & give individual beauty to _! homes1 & an impetus to ! occupation :i* helps to support s _m ( our /ruggl+ si/]s4 ,! frame or mti] is always a pretty object 9 ! draw+-room or b\doir4 ,! ,fr5* und]/& ?is well2 & make x "o ( _! mo/ useful prop]ties 9 _! sc5ic repres5tations ( ref9$ home life4 ,i w conclude ?is *apt] ) two quotations4 ,! fir/ is "p ( ,sir ,digby ,wyatt's advice 9 a ,cambridge ,lecture4 ,y c nev] hope 7he says7 to h ! means ( supply+ y\rself ) :at is beautiful unless y take pa9s to add to ! production ( t beauty4 ,! col\r :i* ! decorative pa9t] 7& ! embroid]] also7 may ca/ ar\nd y is nei!r m nor less ?an an atmosph]e 9 :i* y\r eye w be ei!r /r5g!n$ or debilitat$4 ,if y accu/om y\r eye only or ma9ly to contemplate :at is satisfactory 9 col\r & =m to ! highe/ ta/es1 x w gradually become allur$ to su* delicacy ( organization z to reject un9t5tionally all t is repugnant to p]fect ta/e4 ,mr4 ,morris1 9 a lecture to ! ,birm+ham ,society ( ,arts & ,s*ool ( ,design1 says ( ugly furni%+s3 ,h]e9 ! ri* p h defraud$ !mselves z well z ! poor4 ,y w see a ref9$ & highly educat$ man n[adays1 :o has be5 to ,italy & ,egypt & :]e n1 :o c talk le>n$ly en\gh 7& fanta/ically en\gh sometimes7 ab\t art & lit]ature ( pa/ days1 sitt+ d[n )\t signs ( discom=t 9 a h\se t1 ) all its surr\nd+s1 is j brutally vulg> & hide\s4 ,all 8 education has done = him no m ?an t4 ,y _c civilize man unless y give him a %>e 9 art4 ,b ! man mu/ be civiliz$ by education to accept t %>e ( art t 8 life (f]s to him4 ,x mu/ be admitt$ t ?\gh a man may be educat$ en\gh to enable him to !orize1 he may yet be too poor to furni% ) ta/e4 ,if he is able to act up to 8 !ories1 & to surr\nd himself ) :at is ref9$1 & fail to d s1 & is cont5t$ n to /ir 9 ?is matt]1 he is n truly educat$4 ,n[ t :i* bre$s art is art4 ,any piece ( "w t is well done is s mu* help to ! cause4 ,! cause is ! ,democracy ( ,art1 ! ennobl+ ( daily & common "w4 ,,footnotes3 #dfa ,odyssey1 xxiii41 l4 #aij4 #dfb ,lay>d's ,monum5ts1 #a/ s]ies1 pl4 #gg2 see ,hi/oire de l',art1 ii41 ,p]rot & ,*ipiez4 #dfc ,a b$ may be absolutely )\t any hang+s or te/]1 & yet c>ry embroid]y1 z 9 ! curi\s fun]al c\* ( a sepul*ral monum5t 9 pa9t$ t]ra-cotta 9 ! ,campana ,museum ( ! ,l\vre4 ,"h ! mattress is work$ to resemble tick+1 /rip$1 & ! cu%ions h embroid]$ ends2 & are made 9 ! =m ( bol/]s4 ,!re is a simil> sepul*ral monum5t 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,bo? ( !m 7 f\nd at ,c]vetri1 & are qua9t examples ( e>ly ,etruscan art4 ,see ,d5nis' ,etruria1 #bnd ed41 p4 #bbg4 #dfd ,! ?read embroid]ies 9 c\nt$ /it*es 7 work$ 9 an endless v>iety ( beautiful designs1 ( :i* ! collection 9 ,franz & ,frida ,lipp]heide's ,mu/]b*] fr ,weibli*e ,h&>beit is mo/ int]e/+ & exhau/ive2 includ+ ,italian & ,g]man ,li55/ick]ei1 ,b]l91 #ahhc4 #dfe ,( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 #dff ,! c>pets us$ by ! ,romans 7 call$ ,tricl9>ia ,babylonica1 = ! use ( ! tricl9ium1 & ,polymata cubicul>ia1 = ! cubiculum4 ,^! 7 dy$ crimson1 sc>let1 & purple4 ,see ,horace's ,satires1 ii4 #f2 also ,smi?'s ,diction>y ( ,greek & ,roman ,antiquities1 s4v4 ,tapes41 p4 #ajb-ajf1 ,tricl9ium4 #dfg ,m>co ,polo1 p4 #ib1 ed4 ,yule1 speak+ ( ! ladies ( ,c>amania 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 says !y produc$ exquisite ne$lework on silk /uffs ( div]s col\rs1 ) figures ( birds1 bea/s1 trees1 & fl[]s4 ,!y work$ hang+s = ! noblem5's use1 z well z cu%ions1 pill[s1 quilts1 & all sorts ( ?+s4 #dfh ,lampridius 7,anton94 ,heliogab4 cap4 xxvi4 see ,bock1 p4 #abi7 says1 9 ! life ( ,heliogabalus1 t table-cov]s 7 embroid]$ = ! emp]or1 repres5t+ ! di%es :i* 7 to be plac$ ^u !m at ! fe/al table ( ?is epicure4 #dfi ,see ! scre5 on ! ,assyrian bas-relief 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 plac$ r\nd ! back ( ! ?rone on :i* ! k+ is seat$4 ,?is is app>5tly a frame on :i* hang+s are fix$4 #dgj ,see inv5tory ,( ,h5ry ,,viii4's goods1 c41 ,i4 ,ed4 ,,vi4 7,bib47 ,h>l4 #adai1 quot$ by ,felix ,summ]ley 9 8 ,h&book ( ,hampton ,c\rt4 #dga ,i w\ld add1 except t :i* is consecrat$ by "t or s5tim5t4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,,dress4 ,:atev] clo?+ %e displays1 ,f ,tyre or ,cos1 t clo?+ praise2 ,if gold %[ =? ! arti/'s skill1 ,call h] ?an gold m preci\s /ill2 ,or if %e *oose a co>se attire1 ,e'en co>s5ess1 worn by h]1 admire4 ,,ovid1 ,ars ,amat4 ii4 #big1 #cjj 7,yates1 p4 #ahj74 ,hav+ glanc$ at ! decoration ( ! h\se1 ,i mu/ n[ proce$ to say a few words on ,dress4 ,semp]1 ,lab>te1 & ,sir ,digby ,wyatt all take x = grant$ t ! ,art ( ,dress prec$$ all o!r arts4 ,e anci5t record %[s h[ e>ly decoration ( dress by ne$lework began1 & h[ f> x _h gone2 & :5 we read ( fe/al hospitalities & m>riage gifts1 embroid]$ g>m5ts are inv>iably nam$4 ,solomon 9 all 8 glory1 ?\gh he prais$ ! lily1 yet %one 9 spl5did app>el4 ,! ,greeks ref9$ ! gold1 & pa9t$ ! lily4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ej4 ,italian ,knight dress$ = conque/1 by ,g5tile da ,fabriano4 ,academia at ,flor5ce4 ,z soon z dress became an art1 & n m]ely an ackn[l$g$ necessity = w>m? & dec5cy1 ,i see no reason to d5y t ! same decorative g5ius t embroid]$ ! g>m5t might at ! same "t h imag9$ ! c>v+ ( ! *air & ! inlay+ ( ! sword & b[2 b z reg>ds ! prec$5ce ( ! arts1 we c only guess at :at is probable4 ,beauty 9 dress is c]ta9ly a univ]sal in/9ctive passion4 ,p]haps ! birds 7:i* ,mr4 ,d>w9 & o!rs cr$it ) pre5+ _! plumage1 consci\s t _! spots are ! brighte/1 & _! fea!rs ! glossie/1 & t !y are !re=e ador$ by ! h5s1 & ! envy ( ! %abbi] cocks7 sugge/$ to m5 ! same me?od = secur+ ! pref]5ce ( ! o!r sex1 :o 9 return will+ly help$ to adorn ! idols ( _! he>ts & homes4 7,plate #ej47 ,?is natural /ate ( ?+s /ill prevails 9 ,c5tral ,africa1 :]e ,s*we9fr? describes a k+ danc+ be=e 8 #ajj wives co/um$ 9 ! tails ( lions & peacocks1 & cr[n$ ) ! proboscis ( an elephant4 ,x appe>s1 h[ev]1 t1 unlike ,cleopatra1 cu/om _h /al$ 8 inf9ite v>iety1 & ! #ajj ladies look$ on ! spl5did display ) blank indiff]5ce4 ,?is is only a b>b>\s illu/ration ( ! fact t 9 ! e>lie/ civilizations magnific5t g>m5ts 7 worn by m5 to dazzle & awe ! behold]s by ! spl5d\r :i* repres5t$ weal? & conque/4 ,h[ glori\s a man c\ld appe> app>ell$ to repres5t maje/y & dom9ion1 may be le>n$ by /udy+ ,canon ,rock's book on ! coronation dresses ( ! ,emp]ors ( ,g]many--a book great 9 e s5se ( ! ^w4 ,! portrait ( ,*>les ,v4 rob$ & cr[n$ is a dazzl+ example ( ! arts ( dress1 embroid]y1 & jewell]'s "w4 ,^! g>m5ts h = ages be5 treasur$ at ,vi5na1 ,aix-la-,*apelle1 & 9 ! ,vatican at ,rome4 ,! coronation g>m5ts ( ! ,emp]ors ( ,russia are said to be gorge\sly beautiful4 ,x seems h>dly necess>y to ass]t t embroid]y has always be5 especially applicable to dress4 ,ea* g>m5t1 be+ individualiz$ by ! design depict$ on x1 0 fitt$ = individual uses & occasions4 ,! conqu]or's palmat$ mantle1 ! coronation robe1 ! bridal g>m5t1 ! co/ume ( ! peasant = fe/ival days1 & ! (ficiat+ ve/m5ts ( ! prie/s = special s]vices ( pray] & praise--^! 7 loyally or pi\sly work$2 !y desc5d$ f g5]ation to g5]ation z family treasures or z hi/orical memorials1 & sometimes z holy relics1#dgb till !y & ! call = !m1 7 swept away at once by social *anges2 yet "s /ill rema9 & hold _! place4 ,prie/ly g>m5ts1 toge!r ) ,*ur* decorations1 nev] laid aside 9 ! ,roman & ,greek ,*ur*es1 are be+ p>tially reviv$ 9 our own2 & = secul> adornm5t ! embroid]] is (t5 call$ ^u to "w a g>l&1 to enwrea! ! =m ( a pretty woman1 to lie on h] %\ld]s & encircle h] wai/4 ,! greate/ loss to ! art is t m5 z a rule h ceas$ to individualize !mselves1 or _! position or (fice by dress1#dgc & h left entirely to ! wom5 ! pleasure & duty ( mak+ !mselves z lovely & conspicu\s z _! circum/ances w p]mit4 ,! same l95 & broadclo? are cut 9 ! same %apes1 ( :i* ! only m]it is t !y are said to be com=table1 & ^: highe/ aim is to be spotless & unwr9kl$2 ^! %[ ! alt]$ conditions ( ! highly civiliz$ man1 & woman too1 = he has long left beh9d him ! idea ( dazzl+ ! female eye or he>t by ! attraction ( col\r4 ,?is applies only to ,european co/ume at home or 9 ! colonies4 ,! ,ea/ /ill reta9s its pleasure 9 gorge\s comb9ations1 9 :i* man enfolds 8 p]son1 & %[s h[ beautiful he c make himself :5 ?us clo!d1 9 accordance ) ! classical axioms1 z to h[ mu* ( ! human =m %\ld be reveal$1 & h[ mu* conceal$4 ,! pr9ciple on :i* ! anci5ts embroid]$ _! g>m5ts 0 l t ( ! ,indians1 ! l>ge surfaces pla91 or cov]$ ) quiet diap]s or spots1 ! ri* ornam5ts be+ res]v$ = ! bord]s1 ! girdles & ! sc>ves4 ,_! g>m5ts hung loose f ! %\ld]s or girdle2 :e!r long or %ort !y clung to ! figure or flutt]$ 9 ! w9d4 ,! long fl[+ robes to ! feet veil$ ! =m completely1 & 7 only ?r[n (f = ! battle or ! *ase1 or 9 ! /ruggles = victory 9 ! races & games4 ,dress1 9 ! supreme reign ( beauty1 0 int5d$ to fl[ ar\nd1 or to conceal1 b nev] to disguise1 ! human frame x enclos$4 ,hom] ?us describes ,juno's toilet be=e call+ on ,jupit]3-- ,ar\nd h] next a heav5ly mantle fl['d1 ,t ri* ) ,pallas' lab\r'd col\rs gl['d2 ,l>ge clasps ( gold ! fold+s ga!r'd r\nd2 ,a gold5 zone h] swell+ bosom b\nd4 ,iliad1 xiv4 v4 #bjg4 ,! ,greeks c]ta9ly wore delicate & ta/eful embroid]y on _! g>m5ts1 frequ5tly f9i%$ ) spl5did bord]s1 :ile ! l>ge space betwe5 0 dott$ ) />s or "s simple patt]n4 ,we le>n ?is f ! pa9t+s on ,greek fictile vases4 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum !re is a little bronze /atuette ( ,m9]va 7) tw9kl+ diamond eyes74 ,%e has a broad b& ( embroid]$ silv] foliage f h] ?roat to h] feet4 ,z ! beauty ( ,greek =ms act$ & react$ on ! beauty ( _! ,art ( ,dress1 s we may be c]ta9 t all de=mity ( dress has be5 produc$ by de=mity ( race 9 m9d or body1 & t climate is an important factor 9 bo?4 ,! cold ( ! f>!/ nor? has produc$ p %ort1 fat1 & hairy2 :i* natural gifts h be5 supplem5t$ by _! w>m clo!s or cov]+s1 9 ! same way t a cosy cov]s a teapot4 ,fl[+ g>m5ts !re w\ld be utt]ly out ( place1 petticoats are unkn[n1 & ! ,lapp hangs out no?+ t c be ! vehicle = c>ry+ an icicle4 ,_! dresses1 or cases1 are plann$ to keep out ! cold1 & to place ano!r atmosph]e betwe5 ! he>t ( ! brea?+ mass1 & ! cruel1 cutt+1 out] w9d4 ,h5ce1 ! mat]ials us$ are n only wov5 hair1 b ! furry sk9s !mselves4 ,9 ! s\?1 "u ! sun%9e1 dress is = ! great] "p ( ! ye> only ne$$ = dec5cy & beauty4 ,! fl[+ & delicate cottons & silks & f9e wooll5s1 are %ap$ to cov] & adorn ! beautiful =ms1 :i* = entire isolation take refuge 9 ! nev]-fail+ mantle4 ,! mantle 0 ! great opportunity = ! embroid]]'s craft4 ,alki/h5es1 ! ,syb>ite1 _h a g>m5t ( su* magnific5ce t :5 x 0 exhibit$ 9 ! ,temple ( ,juno at ,lac9ium1 :]e all ,italy 0 congregat$1 x attract$ su* univ]sal admiration t x 0 sold to ! ,c>?ag9ians by ,dionysius ! ,eld] = #abj tal5ts4 ,! gr\nd 0 purple1 wr\ght all ov] ) animals1 except ! c5tre1 :]e 7 se5 ,jupit]1 ,juno1 ,apollo1 ,m9]va1 ,v5us1 & ,!mis4 ,on "o bord] 0 ! figure ( ,alki/h5es himself1 on ! o!r 0 depict$ ! emblematic figure ( 8 native city1 ,syb>is4 ,! size ( ! g>m5t 0 ,hom]ic--x 0 fifte5 cubits1 or tw5ty-two feet 9 bread?4#dgd ,t ! ladies ( ,greece 9 ! f\r? c5tury c>ri$ d[n ! hi/orical & ,hom]ic traditions ( ! embroid]y frame1 & made x "p ( _! daily lives1 :ile ! ,p]sian wom5 ( rank left su* "w to _! slaves1 is evid5t f ! pretty leg5d told ( ,alex&] ! ,great1 :o desir+ to beguile ! we>9ess ( 8 prison]s1 ! wife & family ( ,d>ius1 s5t !m "s ( 8 g>m5ts to embroid]4 ,:5 x 0 report$ to him t ^! pr9cesses 7 mu* mortifi$1 believ+ x 0 a sugge/ion ( _! fall5 =tunes1 ,alex&] ha/5$ to reassure !m--say+ t 8 own "m & si/]s occupi$ !mselves 9 embroid]+ dresses4 ,! ,p]sians & ,babylonians seem to h pref]r$ subjects = _! embroid]$ dresses some:at 9 ! /yle ( ! mantle ( ,alki/h5es1 :i* 0 probably ,ori5tal1 & sugge/s ! ,babylonian mantle 9 ,j]i*o1 :i* tempt$ ,a*an to s94 ,! ,egyptian frescoes on ! o!r h&1 sometimes give u wom5 & goddesses dress$ 9 small fl[]y patt]ns t rem9d "o ( ,indian *9tzes4 ,^! 7 probably wov51 pa9t$1 & embroid]$1 & fill$ 9 ) ?reads ( gold4 ,! ,romans v>i$ _! fa%ions1 b !y pref]r$ = a "t /rip$ bord]s on _! g>m5ts1#dge & call$ !m molores1 dilores1 trilores1 up to sev54 ,! ,greeks b seldom dep>t$ f ! rule ( pla9 or quietly patt]n$ surfaces ) ri* bord]s 9 _! del9eations ( dress1 ?\gh !re are examples ( l>ge designs cov]+ ! :ole g>m5t4 ,! embroid]$ dresses ( e>ly ,*ri/ian times are to be judg$ ( by mosaics & frescoes--mo/ly ,italian4 ,^? ( ! d>k ages 7 till lately only names & guesses4 ,b a hiatus 9 our k has be5 fill$ up lately by ! /ore ( entomb$ textiles discov]$ 9 ! ,fay\m 9 ,egypt1 & n[ at ,vi5na1 9 ,h]r ,graf's*5's ,collection4 ,"h we h a v>iety ( %apes1 designs1 & /it*es1 & e k9d ( subject1 sacr$ & pr(ane1 ,*ri/ian & ,pagan1 & ! miss+ l9ks betwe5 ,indian & ,byzant9e fabrics are reveal$4 ,!y cov] ne>ly #djj ye>s1 f ! ?ird to ! sev5? c5tury1 & _m ( !m may be look$ ^u z ap>t f any ecclesia/ical or ev5 ,*ri/ian sugge/ions4 ,i h spok5 ( !m 9 ! *apt] on ,wooll5 ,mat]ials4#dgf ,aft] ! sev5? c5tury1 we aga9 come into ! dawn+ light ( hi/ory--& f9d "h & !re an illu/rative fragm5t1 ne>ly always ecclesia/ical1 tak5 f ! graves ( prie/s & mon>*s4 ,*>lemagne's mantle & robe embroid]$ ) elephants & ) bees1 pres]v$ at ,aix-la-,*apelle--8 dalmatic 9 ! ,vatican--! ,durham embroid]ies1 are r>e & preci\s examples ( t e>ly p]iod4 ,semp] describes ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! cov]+ & ! b9d+4 ,?is seems to be little consid]$ 9 mod]n co/ume1 b x is s ess5tial t ,i w\ld impress x on my read]s4 ,he says t ! cov]+ seeks to isolate1 to enclose1 to %elt]1 to spread ar\nd1 ov] a c]ta9 space1 & is a collective unit1 :]eas b9d+ implies ligature1 & repres5ts a unit$ plurality1--= example1 a bundle ( /icks1 ! fasces ( ! lictors1 c4 ,b9d+ is l9e>1 9 dress x is ei!r horizontal or spiral4 ,:at c ! unit$ plurality be t ju/ifies ! b9d+ (t5 be/[$ on ! figure 9 fa%ionable co/umes8 m fitt$ = b9d+ toge!r ! bones ( ! dead1 ?an = p]mitt+ ! agility ( ! muscles ( ! liv+4 ,semp] cont9ues1--,any?+ t goes aga9/ ?is important axiom is wrong4#dgg ,i ?9k we mu/ all agree t ! objects ( dress are dec5cy1 isolation1 w>m?1 grace1 & beauty4 ,z long z fa%ion takes ! place ( ta/e1 & extravagant *ic sup]s$es grace & beauty1 we mu/ n hope t f9e designs to individualize dress w be call$ =4 ,! ,fr5* ma*9e-made embroid]ies are s beautiful1 & comp>atively *eap1 t we _c compete ) !m4 ,! be/ arti/s design !m1 & ! only fault to be f\nd is ?is1 t z !y are made by ?\s&s ( y>ds1 & c only be v>i$ by int]*ange ( col\rs1 !y become common ! day !y are produc$4 ,x has be5 said t fa%ion is made = a class1 b ta/e = mank9d4#dgh ,fa%ion is ! enemy ( ta/e1 ?\gh %e makes use ( h] s]vices4 ,! g[n1 ( :i* ! fa%ion is 9 e s5se import$ f ,france1 w probably nev] aga9 be ! vehicle = home embroid]ies4 ,b !re are o!r articles ( p]sonal adornm5t :i* w always be available = ! fancies ( decorative ta/e--! fan1 ! purse or sat*el1 ! apron1 ! fi*u1 ! po9t ( ! %oe1 & ! muff--all ^! are objects on :i* ?\ght & +5uity may well be exp5d$1 & :i* w rema9 z records ( p]sonal feel+ :5 ! work]s & giv]s ( su* graceful mem5toes are f> away4 ,c>riage-rugs & foot-muffs1 & embroid]$ lett]-cases1 & book-cov]s1 mu/ be plac$ some:]e betwe5 furniture & p]sonal ornam5t4 ,9 all ^! ! imprvu1 or unexpect$1 is :at is valuable1 includ+ all t is orig9al & qua9t4 ,embroid]y w1 h[ev]1 probably cont9ue occasionally to be employ$ 9 ! adornm5t ( dress--& w leave ( ea* phase & p]iod ( art "s f9e examples on :i* ! ar*ologi/ ( ! future may pause & reason4 ,!re are 9 mo/ old h\ses "s specim5s ( old secul> "w--few e>li] ?an ! date ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,go?ic dress is v r>e1 except ! ecclesia/ical4 ,b f ! fifte5? c5tury till n[1 !re rema9s en\gh to ex]cise our curiosity1 our arti/ic ta/es1 & our p[] ( selection & comp>ison2 & h9ts = beauty & grace may (t5 be f\nd & adapt$ to ! /yle ( our own day4 ,plan*'s ,diction>y ( ,dress1 & ,f]r>io's ,co/umi anti*i e mod]ni di tutti i ,popoli1 are great works on dress & co/ume1 & bo? are spl5didly illu/rat$ & wor?y ( /udy4 ,,footnotes3 #dgb ,else:]e ,i h spok5 ( dress be+ cont9ually (f]$ to ! images ( ! pagan gods 9 ! temples4 ,h]odotus 7ii4 p4 #aei7 tells u t ,ph>aoh ,ne*o (f]$ to ! ,apollo ( ,bran*id ! dress he happ5$ to h worn at bo? 8 great successes 7! victory ( ,magdalus & ! tak+ ( ,cadytis74 ,9 ! procession ( ,ptolemy ,philadelphus ! colossal /atue ( ,bac*us & 8 nurse ,nysa 7 drap$1 ! =m] 9 a %awl1 ! latt] 9 a tunic v>iegat$ ) gold4 ,see ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #cfi4 ,old clo!s 7 s5t z votive (f]+s to temples1 & inscriptions record+ li/s ( su* decorations are /ill extant4 ,see ,app5dix #a4 ,! ,greeks hon\r$ ! m5d]s & d>n]s1 & call$ !m heal]s ( clo!s4 ,blmn]1 p4 #bjb4 #dgc ,m5 9 =m] days pref]r$ to %[ by _! dress _! /ation & ! company !y belong$ to4 ,guilds _h _! c]emonial dresses1 & _! liv]ies1 & _! cognizances1 & consid]$ x an hon\r to we> !m4 ,see ,rock1 ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 ii4 p4 #aae4 #dgd ,ari/otle1 ,de ,mirab4 ,auscult41 xcvi4 #dge ,a/]ius1 ,bi%op ( ,amasis1 9 ! f\r? c5tury1 describes bo? hang+s & dress embroid]$ ) lions1 pan!rs1 huntsm51 woods1 & rocks2 :ile ! ,*ur* adopt$ pictorial repres5tations ( ,*ri/ian subjects4 ,sidonius alludes to furniture ( l "*4 ,see ,yule1 ,m>co ,polo1 p4 #fh4 #dgf ,katalog d] ,!odor ,graf's*5 ,fnde 9 gypt51 von ,dr4 ,j4 ,k>abacek1 ,wi51 #ahhc4 #dgg ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 p4 #bh4 #dgh ,un=tunately ?is axiom may be rev]s$4 ,ta/e only belongs to a small class1 & mank9d foll[s x1 :e!r good or bad1 if x only be ! fa%ion4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,,ecclesia/ical ,,embroid]y4 ,& n[ z ,i turn ^! volumes ov]1 ,& see :at lies betwe5 cov] & cov]1 ,:at treasures ( art ^! pages hold1 ,all ablaze ) crimson & gold4444 ,yes1 ,i might almo/ say to ! ,"l1 ,"h is a copy ( ,?y ,^w ,writt5 out ) mu* toil & pa92 ,take x1 ,o ,"l1 & let x be ,z some?+ ,i h done = ,!e6 ,h[ sweet ! air is6 h[ fair ! sc5e6 ,i wi% ,i _h z lovely a gre5 ,to pa9t my l&scapes & my leaves6 ,h[ ! swall[s twitt] "u ! eaves6 ,!re1 n[1 !re is "o 9 h] ne/2 ,i c j cat* a glimpse ( h] head & brea/1 ,& w sket* h] ?us1 9 h] quiet nook1 ,= ! m>g9 ( my ,gospel-book4 ,,longfell[1 ,! ,gold5 ,leg5d 7,! ,scriptorium71 p4 #agf4 ,^u ,?y "r h& did /& ! que5 9 a ve/ure ( gold1 wr\ght ab\t ) div]s col\rs4444 ,! k+'s daught] is all glori\s )93 h] clo?+ is ( wr\ght gold4 ,%e %all be br\ght unto ! k+ 9 raim5t ( ne$lework4--,psalm xlv4 #aj1 #ad1 #ae4 ,if ! ,bride is ! type ( ! ,*ur*1 h[ truly has %e be51 = eighte5 c5turies1 ?r\gh\t ,*ri/5dom1 adorn$ ) gold1 & array$ 9 raim5t ( ne$lework4 ,by ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 we mean1 ( c\rse1 ,*ri/ian "w = ,*ri/ian *ur*es4 ,! fir/ pictur$ decorations ( our era1 9 e>ly frescoes1 mosaics1 & illum9at$ ,,mss41 & ! fir/ specim5s t h come d[n to u ( ne$lework & textiles1 te/ify by _! navet to _! date4#dgi ,! prosp]ity ( ! ,*ur*'s hi]>*y 0 f\nd$ on ! ru9s ( ! ,empire1 ov] :i* ,attila _h boa/$ t :]e 8 horse trod no grass grew2 & truly ! cultivat$ art ( ^? spl5did days _h laps$ at once to a pov]ty ( design & b>r5ness ( ideas :i* w\ld soon h dw9dl$ into m]e primitive =ms1 _h n a fre% ,ori5tal impulse arriv$ f ,syria1 ,egypt1 & ,byzantium1--& !n ! arts 7 born anew4#dhj ,! cont9uity 0 brok52 yet1 be+ devot$ to ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*1 ! new arts 7 by x m\ld$ & fo/]$4 ,little lamps tw9kl$ "h & !re 9 mona/ic h\ses4 ,hang+s = ! *ur*es1 cov]+s = ! alt>s1 robes = ! prie/s1 occupi$ ! arti/ & ! embroid]]4 ,! =ms1 ! col\rs1 ! uses1 7 adapt+ !mselves to become ! symbols ( or?odoxies & h]esies1 & ?us became a "p ( ! hi/ory ( ! ,*ur*4 ,! l9ks are _m betwe5 !m & ! hi/ory ( ! ,/ate2 & "h ecclesia/ical embroid]ies come 9 z l&m>ks4 ,royal & pr9cely g>m5ts1 :i* _h s]v$ = /ate occasions1 7 con/antly d$icat$ z votive (f]+s1 & conv]t$ into ve/m5ts = ! (ficiat+ prie/1 & s 7 record$ & pres]v$4#dha ,royal & noble ladies employ$ _! leisure h\rs 9 "w = ! adornm5t ( ! ,m9/] or ! home *ur* or *apel4 ,gifts ( ! be/ 7 ex*ang$ betwe5 conv5ts1 or =w>d$ to ! holy fa!r at ,rome1 & 7 (t5 enri*$ ) jewels4 ,! images ( ! ,virg9 & sa9ts receiv$ f weal?y p5it5ts _m co/ly g>m5ts1#dhb besides money & l&s4 ,?is d$icatory ne$lework has pres]v$ to u ! records ( classical1 ,byzant9e1 & ,arab-,go?ic design1 :i* o!rwise mu/ h be5 lo/4 ,! ,*ur* records & illum9at$ ,,mss4 give u mo/ tru/wor?y in=mation ( ! way 9 :i* ! alt>s1 ! prie/s1 & ev5 ! k+s 7 array$2 & ! catalogues ( royal w>drobes are also v in/ructive1 z we f9d h[ (t5 pr9cely gauds became1 z gifts to ! ,*ur*1 commemorative ( hi/orical ev5ts1 su* z a victory or an accession1 a m>riage or a coronation4 ,woltmann & ,wo]mann say t ! ef=ts ( ! ,*ri/ians 9 ! "t ( ,con/ant9e t5d$ to delay ! ext9ction ( classical design 9 ,rome4 ,( ! f\r? c5tury !y give z examples ! mosaics ( ,sta4 ,pud5ziana1 :]e we c /ill f9d antique beauty ( design4 ,we may also m5tion ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,agnese fuori le mura1 :i* once conta9$ ! s>cophagi ( ,con/ant9e & 8 "m ,hel5a1 & ( :i* ! decorations 9 ! ceil+s are entirely classical1 ?\gh ! motives _h be5 transf]r$ to ,*ri/ian symbolism4#dhc ,! total disappe>ance ( ,greek art did n occur till ! eigh? c5tury1 :5 ! new blood infus$ f =eign s\rces began to ass]t itself4#dhd ,rome _h succe$$ to ,greece z be+ ! c5tre ( ,*ri/ian art1 :i* assum$ ! phase commonly call$ ! ,romanesque4 ,?is 0 a conglom]ate ( ,ori5tal1 ,byzant9e1 & ,grco-,roman1 v>i$ 9 diff]5t c\ntries4 ,!n !re 7 ! ,sc&9avian1 & ,runic1 & ,celtic /yles drift+ f ! ,nor?2 ! ,lomb>dic1 ( ,c5tral ,italy2 ! ,o/ro-,go?ic1 ( ,rav5na2 ! ,byzant9e1 ( ,v5ice1 all act+ & react+ ^u ea* o!r4 ,all ^! r\gh & in*oate attempts at ! beautiful1 prep>$ ! _w = ! acceptance ( ! ,arabic influ5ce1 :i* is said to h be5 import$ at ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury by ! ,crusad]s1 to ^: pi\s ent]prise "s attribute ! :ole ( ! spl5did ,go?ic art ( ! ?ree succe$+ c5turies4 ,b ! m>k+ *>act]i/ic ( ! ,arabic ar* is want+2 ! ogee %ape is seldom to be f\nd 9 ,*ri/ian ar*itecture2#dhe & ! po9t$ ar* s naturally results f ! int]section ( ! r\nd ar*es1 t we _c b look ^u ^! causes z co-incid5t4 ,i h else:]e rem>k$ h[ (t5 9 art diff]5t causes co-op]ate to =m a /yle4 ,! fa!r & "m are ( diff]5t nationalities1 & ! result %[s ! *>act]i/ics ( its d\ble p>5tage4 ,! le>n$ antiqu>ies1 :o draw _! argum5ts ma9ly f ! =m ( ! ar*1 mu/ settle :5ce & h[ ,go?ic art 9 /one came into ,europe4 ,x 0 d\btless ! effect or result ( m ?an "o cause4 ,b 9 z f> z x influ5c$ textile art1 we h come to ! p]iod :5 x mu/ be /udi$ 9 ,sicily1 ! half-way h\se & re/+-place ( ! ,crusad]s on _! highroad to ! ,holy ,l&4 ,sicily1 :i* _h succe$$ to ,con/ant9ople z be+ ! great manufactur+ m>t dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 01 9 ! h&s ( ! ,moors1 ! orig9 & s\rce ( all ,european ,go?ic textile art4 ,yet ev5 at ,pal]mo & ,mess9a !y 7 controll$ by ! traditions ( ! s*ools ( ,greece1 anci5t & mod]n1 & by ,babylonian1 ,indian1 & ,african =ms & symbolisms4 ,byzantium furni%$ _m ( _! designs1 :i* 7 sometimes ( v remote date1 ?\gh press$ into ! s]vice ( ! new /yle & ! ,*ur*4 ,^! & all ! /reams ( ecclesia/ical decoration ?r\gh\t ,europe fl[$ t[>ds ,rome1 & 7 re-issu$ ) ! fiat & seal ( ! ,c5tral ,*ur*1 :i* also aft]w>ds presid$ ov] ! art ( ! ,r5aissance4#dhf ,by /udy+ :at rema9s to u ( fragm5ts & records we "k all ! mat]ials :i* clo!d ! primitive & m$ival ,*ur*1 & we f9d t !re 0 b little orig9ality 9 textile decoration or 9 ! =ms ( dress1 :i* ei!r resembl$ ^? ( ! prie/s 9 ! ,jewi% synagogue or ^? ( ! hea!n temples2 & 7 adapt$ f traditional patt]ns4 ,! con/ant repetition ( ! cross & ! signs ( ! ,passion1 ) ! emblems ( sa9ts & m>tyrs1 7 int]wov5 ) ! anci5t classical =ms1 mix$ up ) ! old symbolisms p>tially alt]$ to suit _! new s]vice ( ,*ri/ian art4 ,( c\rse su* *anges 7 inevitable1 :ile ! old motives 7 be+ translat$ to ! new uses4 ,! corselet ( ,amasis 7! ,egyptian corselet1 p4 #bj1 ante7 closely resembles ! ,jewi% ephod1 :i* probably 0 borr[$ f ,egypt4#dhg ,9 ,rock's ,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs1 vol4 i4 p4 #dji1 we f9d m5tion ( ! consul> trabea1 pr(usely work$ 9 gold1 z be+ ! orig9 ( ! cope4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ea4 ,/4 ,m>k4 ,anglo-,saxon ,book ( ! ,f\r ,gospels 9 ! ,ca!dral ,libr>y at ,york4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ & disput$ t ! /ole 0 an adaptation ( ! latus clavus2 inde$1 if we comp>e ! examples giv5 by ,bock#dhh we c h>dly d\bt t ! consul> trabea & ! latus clavus ei!r s]v$ z ! models = ! ,*ri/ian ,bi%op's dress1 or 7 d]iv$ f ! same traditional s\rces4 ,su* is ! intimate *a9 ( design f c5tury to c5tury1 f age to age2 f ,egypt to ! ,holy ,l&1 & !nce to ,rome4 ,bock gives 8 au?orities = say+ t ! clavus 0 sometimes an appli$ bord]1 sometimes a loose /ripe hang+ d[n 9 front1 z may be se5 9 two consul> dipty*s giv5 9 plate #gj4 ,mu* has be5 writt5 on ?is latus clavus1 its orig9 & mean+1 & ,i %all return to x 9 ref]5ce to ! *rysoclavus patt]n1 p4 #ccg1 po/1 & ,i ref] ! read]1 :o may wi% to ent] m fully into ! que/ions rais$ by conflict+ op9ions reg>d+ ! clavus1 to ,m>qu>dt's ,h&bu* ,rm4 ,alt]?m]1 vii4 p4 #b1 pp4 #ebh-ecc1 :]e great le>n+ & +5uity h be5 exp5d$1 )\t arriv+ at any satisfactory conclusions4#dhi ,?is keep+ to ! old l9es & outw>d appe>ance z mu* z possible 0 ma9ly due to a reg>d = safety dur+ ! p]secutions1 & also to ! ,*ri/ian _s ( adoption & conv]sion1 r ?an t ( antagonism1 :i* influ5c$ all _! e>ly manife/ations4 ,?is un*ang+ "* ( art 0 also p>tly ow+ to ! absolute /]ility ( ! a%es ( ,roman ,imp]ialism4 ,x is true t ?r\gh ! ,d>k ,ages individual g5ius occasionally fla%$ & left a m>k "h & !re2 b su* ph5om5a are s r>e1 t :5 !y occur we hesitate be=e we assign !m to t age4 ,! ,anglo-,saxon art ( illum9ation %[s ^! inspir$ mom5ts2 ,i w\ld po9t to _! draw+s 9 ! books 9 ! ,bodleian at ,ox=d1 & ! ,book ( ! ,f\r ,gospels 7( ! t5? c5tury7 9 ! ,m9/] ,libr>y at ,york1 :i* are orig9al & graceful1 & h a reflection f ! classical traditions4 ,to an arti/ic eye !y are beautiful4 7,plate #ea47 ,! consci5ti\s col\r+ ( ! ,anglo-,saxon ,,mss4 is liturgical4 ,mr4 ,clapton ,rolfe#dij says t ! ,levitical traditions 9 ! e>li] sy/em ( decoration 9 ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* _h a f> /rong] hold on ! popul> m9d ?an we are will+ n[ to admit2 & t ! five ,levitical col\rs1 gold1 blue1 purple1 r$1 & :ite1 7 reta9$ 9 ! ,*ri/ian ritual4 ,:5ev] we come across figures ( ,anglo-,saxon bi%ops1 ! liturgical ve/ure entirely agrees ) ! ,biblical description4 ,embroid]ies be=e ! twelf? c5tury g5]ally pres]ve a semi-,roman1 semi-,ori5tal "*1 :i* is ne>ly relat$ to ! art :i* is call$ ,lomb>dic4 ,?is diff]s f :at we "k ( ,sc&9avian & ,celtic design ?r\gh illum9at$ books1#dia c>v+ on /one crosses ?r\gh\t ! nor? ( ,europe1 ,great ,brita91 & ,irel&1 & ! rema9s we possess ( _! metal "w4 ,i am n aw>e ( any ecclesia/ical embroid]ies :i* %[ a ,celtic orig91#dib unless ! int]tw9$ patt]ns on ,italian dresses 9 pa9t+s ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies may be suppos$ to be d]iv$ f t s\rce4 7,see p4 #ia1 ante47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,9 acc\nt+ = ! in/ances ( evid5t ,ori5tal influ5ce on ,*ri/ian art1 :i* came ?r\gh ,byzantium1 we mu/ n re/rict ourselves to se>*+ out ! ,arabian traditions1 b we mu/ rememb] also h[ mu* ,babylon & ,p]sia1 z well z ,india1 _h giv5 to ! ,empire ( ! ,ea/1 & ^! influ5ces 7 9 full =ce at ! "t t ,*ri/ian art 0 be+ organiz$4 ,we "k1 = example1 t ! great veil ( ! temple at ,j]usalem1 giv5 by ,h]od1 0 ,babylonian4 ,! mat]ials--l951 silk1 & wooll5--on :i* ecclesia/ical embroid]ies 7 work$ at ,rome & ,con/ant9ople 7 accept$ all ov] ! ,*ri/ian _w4 ,! fabrics 7 pla91 /rip$1 & figur$2 & came f ,p]sia & ,india1 ,greece1 ,alex&ria1 & ,egypt4 ,ev5 ,*9ese & ,?ibetian /uffs are (t5 nam$4 ,clo?s ( gold & silv] also came f ! ,ea/1 z 9 ! days ( ,attalus4 ,all ^! furni%$ ! gr\nds on :i* ne$lework 0 lavi%ly sp5t4 ,! great veils :i* divid$ ! pagan & ,jewi% temples 7 at fir/ adopt$ 9 ! ,*ri/ian *ur*es1 b !y gradually disappe>$ f common use1 9 spite ( occasional survivals & revivals dur+ ! ,d>k ,ages4 ,records exi/ ( ! hang+s ( ! anci5t basilica ( ,/4 ,pet] at ,rome1 spread betwe5 ! pill>s support+ ! balda*9o ov] ! high alt> & ^? ( ! *oir2 & at ! ,o/ro-,go?ic imp]ial c\rt ( ,rav5na1 9 ! fif? c5tury1 ,maximianus ord]$ a set ( simil> spl5did curta9s 7tetravela7 to be work$ = ! alt>4 ,ana/asius ,biblio!c>ius 7n9? c5tury71 9 8 biographies ( ! popes1 m5tions curta9s & embroid]$ alt>-pieces work$ 9 ! six? & sev5? c5turies4#dic ,s]gius 7,a4,d4 #fhg7 ord]$ f\r :ite & f\r sc>let curta9s1 & ,pope ,john 7#gja7 hung :ite ones betwe5 ! pill>s on ei!r side ( ! alt> at ,/4 ,paul's4 ,/4 ,za*>ias#did gave simil> hang+s to ! *ur*es ( ,/4 ,pet] & ,/4 ,paul4 ,/eph5 ,,iv4 plac$ imm5se silv] curta9s at ! entrance ( ! basilica ( ,/4 ,pet]'s1 & 9 #gfh gave to x sixty-five curta9s ( figur$ ,syrian /uffs4#die ,! same hang+s prevail$ at int]vals 9 ,engl&1 ,france1 & ,g]many1 till ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies1 :5 ! new ,go?ic /yle ( high1 po9t$ ar*es alt]$ ! decorative cu/oms4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #eb4 ,fragm5ts ( ,silk to be se5 at ,coire 9 ,switz]l&1 also 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,f ,ana/asius's mode ( speak+ ( ecclesia/ical g>m5ts1 x appe>s t !y 7 nam$ 9 ! treasury catalogues aft] ! animals repres5t$ on !m--! peacock g>m5t1 ! elephant casula1 ! lion cope4 ,evid5tly ^! 7 ,ori5tal gold brocades1 ,indian or ,p]sian1 or else reproductions ( _! designs1 & f ,aub]ville's & ,bock's books ( engrav+s we c judge h[ !y repeat$ & v>i$ _! motives4 ,"o wov5 subject1 :i* evid5tly />t$ its textile c>e] z "o ( ! lab\rs ( ,h]cules1 0 gradually transf]r$ to ,samson1 or to ,daniel 9 ! lions' d54 7,plate #d1 ,aub]ville's ,l',ornem5t des ,tissus47 7,plate #eb47dif ,h[ev]1 9 ,russia & ?r\gh\t ! ,greek ,*ur* ! anci5t ,byzant9e use ( hang+s /ill rema9s 9 =ce4 ,! art ( embroid]y has always giv5 its be/ ef=ts to ^! *ur* drap]ies4 ,rome 0 s lad5 ) spl5did embroid]ies by h] ea/]n conque/s1 t probably ! ,*ri/ian decorators w\ld h avail$ !mselves ( "s ( ! accumulat$ /ores2 b we h no record ( su* adaptations1 unless ! spl5did curta9s & ! silv] hang+s ( ,pope ,/eph5 ,,iv4 7 tak5 out ( "s imp]ial treasure-h\se4 ,! contra/ betwe5 e>ly ecclesia/ical art & t :i* imm$iately prec$$ x 9 ! palaces ( ! ,cs>s 7at ,rome1 ,tivoli1 & :]ev] we f9d _! ru9$ glories7 is mo/ rem>kable4 ,! lovely & ! lively _h be5 sudd5ly ab&on$ = ! heavy e>ne/ solemnity & in>ti/ic draw+ ( ! frescoes ( ! und]gr\nd *ur* ( ,/4 ,clem5te 9 ,rome1 & t ( ! e>ly ,*ri/ian mosaics4 ,x is z if ! arts :i* _h l5t1 nay1 giv5 !mselves to ! glorification ( idols1 _h sudd5ly di$ out1 leav+ beh9d !m nei!r an arti/1 nor a skill$ artisan1 sc>cely a tradition4 ,! new ,*ri/ian ideas _h to be pa9fully record$ on sacr$ build+s & _! furni%+s = m ?an a ?\s& ye>s2 ) all ! pati5t acquiesc5ce ( untaught ignorance1 & ! /ruggl+ unc]ta9ty ( g5ius pursu+ a di/ant glimm]+ light1 app>5tly unconsci\s ( all t _h prec$$ x 9 ,egyptian & classic art4 ,! great political & religi\s revolutions 9 ,europe _h cru%$ & buri$ ! arts "u ! ru9s ( ! ,empire ov] :i* ,"t himself seem$ to h brok5 8 h\r-glass1 s little 0 !re to %[ any memory ( _! pa/1 or hope = _! future4 ,! alt]nate progress & de/ruction ( ! arts 9 ,european civilization /rike ! /ud5t1 9 vivid contra/ ) ! immutability ( ^? ( ! ,ea/1 especially 9 ,india & ,*9a1 :]e ! old =ms 7 /ill be+ ma9ta9$ by ! swaddl+ b&s ( codifi$ cu/om#dig t _h re/rict$ _! developm5t1 b prolong$ _! exi/5ce1 & s !y _h surviv$1 :ile ,greece conqu]$ & robb$ ! ,ea/ & ,egypt1 & ,rome cru%$ ,greece & 0 9 h] turn despoil$ by ! ,go?s & ,huns4#dih ,*ri/ian art _h to beg9 at ! v beg9n+1 & collect its own traditions1 & organize its own =ms4 ,^! gradually accumulat$1 avail+ !mselves ( accept$ symbols1 & add+ to !m hidd5 mean+s4 ,! ,re=mation *eck$ ?is developm5t 9 ! nor? ( ,europe1 b aft] #cjj ye>s we are n[ witness+ its revival1 :i* is n m]ely ow+ to a religi\s impulse1 b also to ! ar*ological t5d5cy ( our day & to ! hi/orical int]e/ we atta* to ! c]emonials ( ! ,ea/4 ,z ! ,re=mation 9 ,g]many 0 less sweep+ & iconocla/ic ?an our own1 we f9d !re _m m rema9s ( ecclesia/ical art collect$ 9 ! *ur*es to :i* !y h always belong$1 or 9 museums into :i* !y h drift$2#dii & ! ,g]mans h ?us be5 enabl$ to d m ?an ev5 ! ,fr5*1 9 tra9+ ! diff]5t s*ools ( "w ?r\gh\t ! ,cont95t4 ,!y h prov$ ! ,ori5tal "* ( ! fabrics employ$ ?r\gh ! ,d>k & ,middle ,ages1 i4e4 = ab\t #adjj ye>s1 :e!r !y 7 ,syrian1 ,indo-,*9ese1 ,indian1 ,alex&rian1 ,greek1 ,sicilian1 or ,spani%1 or :e!r !y _h come f ,asia by ! nor? or ! s\? ( ,europe4 ,! same traditional =ms gov]n$ !m all4 ,b an adept is able g5]ally to class & "n ea* specim5 by ! texture ( ! webs1 by ! way gold or gilt ?read is inwov5 9 !m1 :e!r ! metal is pure or alloy$1 r\nd or flat2 also by ! mode ( twi/+ & dye+ ! wool1 flax1 or silk1 & its quality & col\r+ matt]4 ,among ! e>lie/ hi/orical *ur* embroid]]s ! =emo/ figure is t ( ! ,empress ,hel5a1 ! "m ( ,con/ant9e1 claim$ 9 ,wales & 9 ! ,wel% ballad ( ,! ,dream ( ,max5 ,wl$ig z be+ a ,wel% pr9cess m>ri$ to ! ,emp]or ,con/ans4 ,%e is said to h embroid]$ an image ( ! ,virg91 :i* ,muratori speaks ( z exi/+ 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,v]celli 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,bock says x is /ill !re1 & he quotes an anci5t inv5tory ( ! treasures ( ,phillip ! ,good1 ( ,burgundy1 :i* names a ,ri*e et anci5ne table d'autel de brodeure que on dit que la premire ,emp]riez ,*ri/i5ne ,fi/4#ejj ,! ,empress ,hel5a di$ 9 ! f\r? c5tury4#eja ,!n aft] a long int]val comes ,b]! aux gr&s pi$s ! "m ( ,*>lemagne1 :o 9 ! eigh? c5tury 0 fam$ = h] ne$lework1 :i* is celebrat$ 9 a poem by ,adhelm 9 ! eigh? c5tury1 quot$ by ,mrs4 ,pallis]1#ejb a ouvrir si com je v\s dirai n'avoit meillior ouvri]e de ,t\rs jusqu'a ,cambrai1 & h] gr&-daught] ,gisela foll[$ 9 h] foot/eps4 ,ne>ly contempor>y1 is ,aelfl$'s ,durham embroid]y1#ejc describ$ 9 ! *apt] on ,engli% "w4 ,*ri/ian art be=e ! twelf? c5tury is v (t5 ri*1 usually picturesque1 f its fulness ( int5tion2 sometimes beautiful1 :5 x recalls "s e*o f ! ,ea/1 or "s tradition ( ,greek art2#ejd b ! embroid]ies ( ^? c5turies are almo/ always qua9t2 ?is is inv>iably ! ar*aic phase ( all e>ly art4 ,born 9 ! catacombs ( ,rome--r\s$ by impulses f ! nor?1 by education 9 ! s\?1 & ev]y:]e enc\rag$ by ! fo/]+ h& ( ! ,*ur*1 & ! patronage ( papal & ( royal & imp]ial h\ses1--x evolv$ its =ms1 & emancipat$ itself at la/ f its poor & sordid condition2 & ! ,go?ic phase ( ea* nation atta9$ to its own peculi> gr[? & *>act]i/ics2 & among !m ! =emo/ 9 ! _w's e/imation 0 ! ,engli% s*ool ( embroid]y1 to :i* ! next *apt] is devot$4 ,!re has be5 mu* controv]sy z to ! date ( ! dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne 9 ! ,vatican treasury4 ,l e good e>ly piece ( ,go?ic "w 9 ,italy1 x is allott$ to ! days ( ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 7?irte5? c5tury74 ,b :5 we exam9e ?is spl5did relic we _c d\bt t x is ( a mu* e>li] "t1 z !re is no?+ ,go?ic to be f\nd 9 x4 ,x is full ( ! l+]+ traces ( ,greek art 7n ,byzant9e74 ,x rem9ds u mo/ ( ! mosaics ( ,santa ,pud5ziana1 :i* are always quot$ to prove t ,greek art /ill surviv$ 9 ,rome 9 ! eigh? c5tury4#eje ,! dalmatic has be5 mu* re/or$1 b1 ,i believe1 mo/ c>efully kept to ! old l9es4 ,x is work$ on a ?ick1 d>k-blue1 or purple1 sat9y silk1 :i* _h entirely fall5 into little /ripes1 b has be5 skilfully m5d$1 & ! embroid]y has nev] be5 transf]r$4 ,on ! front is our ,"l 9 glory1 sa9ts bel[1 & angels above1 ) a bord] ( *ildr5 play+1 :i* is truly ,greek4 ,! motive ( ?is is ! ,ibi et ,ubi4 ,on ! back is ! ,transfiguration1 & on ! hum]als are ! sacram5ts ( bread & w9e4 ,! :ole1 z art1 is beautiful2 & x is hi/orically mo/ int]e/+4 ,"l ,l9dsay tells u t 9 ! dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne1 7call$ t ( ,leo ,,iii47 ,cola di ,ri5zi rob$ himself ov] 8 arm\r1 & asc5d$ to ! ,palace ( ! ,popes aft] ! mann] ( ! ,cs>s1 ) s\nd+ trumpets be=e him1 & foll[$ by 8 horsem5--8 cr[n on 8 head & 8 trun*eon 9 8 h&--,t]ribile e fanta/ico4#ejf ,?is dalmatic mu/ be rank$ fir/ & highe/ among ecclesia/ical embroid]ies4 7,plates #ec1 #ed1 #ee47 ,"s ( ! details are curi\s4 ,! :ole ( ! blue sat9 gr\nd is work$ ) crosses p>sem4 ,p>ts ( ! design are s adorn$ ) l>g] & small] ,greek crosses--& o!rs ) ! />ry cross4 ,on ! %\ld] is once embroid]$ ! my/ic swa/ika4#ejg ,illu/ration3 ,*>lemagne's ,dalmatic ,! ,vatican1 ,rome ,illu/ration3 ,*>lemagne's ,dalmatic ,! ,vatican1 ,rome ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ee4 ,details ( ,*>lemagne's ,dalmatic4 ,vatican ,treasury4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ef4 ,cope call$ ( ,/4 ,silve/]4 ,treasury ( ,/4 ,john ,lat]an1 ,rome4 ,engli% ,embroid]y1 ?irte5? c5tury4 ,rock says1 ,^? :o h se51 9 ! sacri/y ( ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome1 t beautiful light-blue dalmatic said to h be5 worn by ,*>lemagne :5 he sang ! gospel at ,high ,mass1 at ! alt> ve/$ z a deacon1 ! day he 0 cr[n$ ,emp]or 9 t *ur* by ,pope ,leo ,,iii41 w rememb] h[ pl5tifully x is spr9kl$ ) crosses betwe5 its exquisite embroid]ies1 s z to make ! ve/m5t a real '/aurac94'#ejh ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #eg4 ,portion ( ! ,cope at ,/4 ,john ,lat]an1 %[+ its condition4 ,illu/ration3 ,pluvial1 ,engli%1 ,,xiii4 ,c5tury ,museum at ,bologna ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ei4 ,! ,d>oca ,cope4 ,museum at ,madrid4 ,opus ,anglicanum1 f\rte5? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fj4 ,portion ( ! ,cope ( ,boniface ,,viii41 twelf? c5tury4 ,f ,anagni4 ,n[ 9 ! ,vatican ,collection4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fa4 ,alt> ,frontal f ,anagni1 ,italy4 ,signor ,galletti1 ,pr(essor ( ,embroid]y to ! ,pope1 says x is und\bt$ly ( ! eigh? c5tury4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ t ! design is ( ! date ( ! ,ex>*ate4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 some?+ ( inf9itely f9] /yle2 x is noble1 simple ,greek4 ,*>lemagne's dalmatic is embroid]$ mo/ly 9 gold--! drap]ies 9 basket-"w & laid /it*es2 ! faces 9 :ite silk split-/it*1 flat1 ) f9ely-drawn outl9es 9 black silk4 ,! hair1 ! %ad[y "p ( ! drap]ies1 & ! cl\ds are work$ 9 f9e gold & silv] ?read ) d>k outl9es4 ,! h&s1 feet1 & drap]ies h a f9e bas-relief effect4 7,plate #ec1 #ed1 #ee74 ,! pluvial ( ,/4 ,silve/]1 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,john ,lat]an at ,rome1 is probably1 f its ,go?ic /yle1 ( ! "t ( ,boniface ,,viii4 7?irte5? c5tury74#eji ,x nev] s]v$ ,/4 ,silve/]1 except z be+ p]haps d$icat$ to him4 ,on see+ x1 "o is conv9c$ t x is ,engli%4 ,x has "o peculi>ity ( ,engli% ,go?ic design 9 ! canopies be+ support$ by twi/$ pill>s ( v9e-/ems1 9 ?is case int]sect$ by gre5 %oots1 & c>ry+ leaves4 ,! angels1 ! two *]ubim clo!d 9 peacocks' fea!rs1 ! f9e split-/it*1 ! gold gr\nd+1 & ! draw+ are also di/9ctly ,engli%4 ,i give an outl9e ( ! pluvial f photographs1#eaj & a f9i%$ woodcut ( ! c5tre to %[ ! /yle & condition ( ! "w4 ,! design is mo/ beautiful1 & we c only regret ! loss ( ! bord]1 :i* has be5 entirely cut (f4 ,?is %[s h[ elaborate is ! design1 yet h[ arti/ically arrang$ z a :ole composition4 7,plate #ef1 #eg47 ,x is difficult to settle ! prec$5ce betwe5 ?is spl5did piece ( *ur* decoration & ! rival pluvial ( ,bologna 9 ! ,museo ,civico1 said to h come f ! *ur* ( ,san ,giacomo4 ,x resembles 9 /yle & execution t ( ,/4 ,silve/]1 b its ar*itectural arrangem5t conta9s six circles ( subjects1 work$ l ! o!r 9 silk & gold1 ) gold gr\nd+s2 & bo? are embroid]$ on l954 ,on c>eful exam9ation ( ?is spl5did "w ( art1 ,i h come to ! conclusion t x is ,engli%4 7,plate #eh47 ,! ,d>oca cope 7lately belong+ to ! ,ar*ological ,museum at ,madrid7 is und\bt$ly ,engli%4 ,we c claim x by its peculi> %r9e-"w1 & ! tw9$ columns on ! orphreys2 by ! *]ubim1 by ! peacock-fea!r$ angels1 & by ! =m ( ! panels enclos+ ! diff]5t subjects1 f ! ,life ( ,our ,"l4 7,plate #ei47 ,! cope ( ,boniface ,,viii4 9 ! ,vatican came f ! *ur* ( 8 native place1 ,anagni 7plate #fj71 :]e are /ill v curi\s old embroid]ies 7see ,hon4 & ,rev4 ,i4 ,clif=d's li/ ( embroid]ies 9 ,app5dix #e74 ,"s appe> extremely anci5t1 b !re is no sign by :i* !y may be dat$4 ,"s are probably ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & are v co>se ,italian "w1 ?\gh f9ely design$ 7plate #fa74 ,!re are d\btless _m int]e/+ specim5s /ill to be f\nd 9 ! sacri/ies ( ,italian *ur*es4 ,b !y h g5]ally be5 transf]r$ to museums4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fb4 #a4 ,f ,tomb 9 ,worce/] ,ca!dral1 ( ,bi%op ,walt] de ,cantilupe1 consecrat$ #abcf4 #b4 ,embroid]$ ,cope at ,aix 9 ,switz]l&4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fc4 ,mitre ( ,?omas ,becket at ,s5s1 %[+ ! ,sc&9avian ,fylfot ,cross 7?irte5? c5tury74 ,jewell$ ,cross on ,rose-col\r$ ,cope at ,rheims 7twelf? c5tury74 ,9 ! tomb ( ,walt] de ,cantilupe 7eighte5? c5tury7 at ,worce/]1 7 f\nd ! rema9s ( a dress :i* is decid$ly ( an e>li] date--evid5tly ( ,ori5tal mat]ial1 b ,anglo-,saxon "w--s exactly resembl+ 9 /yle t at ,aix giv5 by ,bock1#eaa t we c h>dly d\bt t !y proce$$ f ! same work%op1 or at lea/ are ( coeval design4 ,bo? are work$ ) a d>k r$ outl9e on a r$ silk gr\nd4 ,! faces & h&s are 9 :ite silk--all ! re/ betwe5 ! outl9es is gold ?read1 flat /it*4 ,bock places its date z antec$5t to ! t5? c5tury1 & inde$ !re is no reason to d\bt t ?is is correct1 ?\gh ! ,worce/] fragm5t 0 tak5 out ( a tomb ( two c5turies lat]4 ,z ^! g>m5ts 7 /or$ 9 ! *ur* treasuries2 & z antiquity 7)\t an hi/orical int]e/7 0 !n ( no value1 ^! old clo!s1 holy by _! use & (fice1 yet by _! %abb9ess unfit = public %[1 may h be5 rev]5tly dispos$ ( 9 clo?+ ! bodies ( dep>t$ prie/s1 :o probably _h worn ^? v ve/m5ts1 :5 (ficiat+ at ! alt> ne> :i* !y 7 laid to re/4 ,:5 ! date ( ! we>] ( ! g>m5t is asc]ta9$1 ! dress _c be ( a lat] p]iod1 b x may h belong$ to a mu* e>li] "o4 ,! ar*itectural "p ( ^! two embroid]ies1 i4e4 ! canopy "w1 resembles t ( ! ,bayeux tape/ry4 ,bo? appe> to be ,engli%4 7,plate #fb47 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fd4 ,f ,tomb ( ,bi%op ,william ( ,blois1 di$ #abcf4 ,worce/] ,ca!dral ,libr>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fe4 ,a portion ( ! ,mantle embroid]$ by ,gisela = h] husb&1 ,/4 ,/eph5 ( ,hung>y4 ,f ,bock's ,kle9odi54 ,9 ! elev5? c5tury1 & = "s "p ( ! twelf?1 ne$lework design 9 ,engl&1 ,france1 & ,g]many fir/ assum$ a phase1 :i* may be call$ ! metal-"w /yle4 ,x is to be f\nd on ! robes & mitres ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury 7,?omas ,becket7 at ,s5s#eab--on ! fam\s rose-r$ cope ( sat9 embroid]$ ) gold & pe>ls at ,rheims 7:i* we %\ld incl9e to believe is ,engli%7#eac 7plate #fc74 ,! fragm5t ( ! cope ( ,william ( ,blois1 f\nd 9 8 tomb1 is 9 ?is /yle4 7,he di$ 9 #abcf47 ,! fragm5ts ( ?is curi\s g>m5t1 work$ 9 gold on a purple silk mat]ial1 evid5tly ,ori5tal1 are also pres]v$ "u glass 9 ! ,ca!dral ,libr>y at ,worce/] 7plate #fd74 ,among/ ! f9e/ in/ances ( ecclesia/ical ne$lework1 &1 inde$1 we may say1 ( ecclesia/ical art ( ! twelf? c5tury1 is ! coronation robe ( ,/4 ,/eph5 ( ,hung>y1 decorat$ by 8 que51 ,gisela1#ead :i* is pres]v$ 9 ! ,imp]ial ,treasury at ,(5 7plate #fe74 ,( ?is au!ntic hi/orical "w we h ! :ole /ory4 ,! orig9al design1#eae drawn on l951 c>efully col\r$1 is to be se5 at ! ,b5$ict9e conv5t abbey ( ,m>t9sburg1 ne> ,raab 9 ,hung>y4 ,! c>e ) :i* ! "w 0 c>ri$ out %[s ! value !n plac$ on su* und]tak+s consid]$ z art1 & x has be5 ju/ifi$ by its survival ( #hjj ye>s2 "t hav+ sp>$ x ow+ to its p]fect mat]ials & manipulation1 till x receiv$ cruel injuries by be+ c>ri$ (f & ?r[n into ! bog ( ,orsava dur+ ! revolution "u ,kossu?4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 recov]$ & re/or$1 & 0 worn by ! pres5t emp]or at ! spl5did & picturesque c]emonial ( 8 coronation at ,pe/h4 ,! design rem9ds u ( ! mosaics 9 ! apse ( ,santa ,m>ia ,maggiore & o!r *ur*es at ,rome1 & x is extremely beautiful4 ,x consi/s ( an arrangem5t ( m$allions & inscriptions1 ) metal-"w ornam5ts 9 b&s alt]nat$ ) small] m$allions4 ,yet ! figures are n s f9ely drawn z ^? ( ! ,durham relics ( ! beg9n+ ( ! t5? c5tury4 ,! draw+ ( ! figures ( ! ,gisela mantle resembles ^? on ! g>m5ts ( ,walt] de ,cantilupe 7plate #fb71 :i*1 f _! design & /it*es1 seem to be ( ?is p]iod4 ,! ar*itectural p>ts are v l 9 design to ^? ( ! ,bayeux tape/ry1 ?\gh !y are inf9itely bett]1 & !y h ,lomb>dic *>act]i/ics4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ff4 ,portion ( ! ,coronation ,mantle ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 ( ,g]many1 embroid]$ by ! ,empress ,kunigunda4 ,f ,bock's ,kle9odi54 ,x appe>s t ,que5 ,gisela _h p]sonally embroid]$ ?is _m-figur$1 ri*ly-embroid]$ repres5tation ( ! ,ibi et ,ubi--,! ,savi\r 9 ,8 glory z ,victor ov] dea? & hell1 seat$ on ! b[ ( heav51 surr\nd$ by *oirs ( angels & sa9ts1 & prophets ( ! ,old ,te/am5t2 bel[ on ?rones1 are ! twelve ,apo/les4 ,! figures are work$ 9 ,ori5tal gold ?read on ,byzant9e crimson silk4 ,9 contra/ to ! ,ubi1 ! heav5ly h]eaft]1 ! que51 9 ! l[e/ broad hem 7bord]7 has repres5t$ ! ,pres5t1 ! !n ,ibi1 by ! lead]s ( ! ,hung>ian magnates & ! half-figures ( ! royal giv]s 9 l>ge gold-embroid]$ m$allions4 ,! next f9e/ specim5 ( elev5? c5tury ne$lework 0 ! gift ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 ,emp]or ( ,g]many1 & 8 wife ,kunigunda1 to ! ca!dral ( ,bamb]g1 :]e x /ill exi/s#eaf 7plate #ff74 ,?is1 aga91 consi/s ( m$allions great & small1 ( :i* ! bord]s1 gracefully int]tw9$1 =m a l>ge composition#eag cov]+ ! :ole surface ( ! imp]ial pallium x once adorn$4 ,b 9 ! fifte5? c5tury x 0 transf]r$ f its orig9al purple silk gr\nd to "o ( d>k-blue damask1 & alt]$ to ! =m ( a *asuble1 z we see x n[4 ,! g5]al design resembles t ( ! mantle ( ,gisela4 ,bock calls ! /yle ( ^! works ,romanesque2 & he ?9ks t !y %[ a ,s>ac5ic influ5ce4 ,!y appe>1 h[ev]1 z ,i said be=e1 to be r ,lomb>dic ?an any?+ else4 ,! read] is ref]r$ to ,dr4 ,bock's preface = fur!r li/s ( ,cont95tal works & work]s4 ,abb ,m>t9 consid]s t 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury ! op5+ out ( ,go?ic art 0 ext5d$ to ! laity1 & 0 really ! sign ( a great social revolution4 ,go?ic art _h till !n only s]v$ ! ,*ur*1 & _h be5 by circum/ances clos$ to ! p1 :o 7 yet unfitt$1 by _! want ( education1 = arti/ic life4#eah ,art 0 till !n almo/ exclusively produc$ by ! mona/ic ord]s1 into :i* all tal5t _h drift$4 ,b ab\t ?is "t x fell into ! h&s ( ar*itects & o!r orig9ators ( design1 :o pres5tly b&$ !mselves toge!r into bro!rhoods & guilds4#eai ,embroid]y till ! ?irte5? c5tury _h be5 entirely 9 ! h&s ( cloi/]$ wom51 & ! ladies :o practis$ x le>n$ _! craft ) ! re/ ( _! education 9 conv5ts1 & _! "w 0 simply ecclesia/ical & d$icatory4 ,at t p]iod social burgh] life 9 ! t[ns _h fir/ begun to develope its love ( luxury1#ebj & to foll[ ! fa%ions ( o!r c\ntries1 & ! *anges ( =ms 9 dress & furni%+ :i* came f =eign p>ts1 ?\gh frequ5tly *eck$ by sumptu>y laws4 ,?is social movem5t prec$$ ev]y:]e political & religi\s revolutions4 ,embroid]y !n became cu/om>y 9 lay dress1 & lo/ its religi\s "*1 or r its religi\s monopoly4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fg4 ,! ,syon ,cope1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum 7?irte5? c5tury74 ,we f9d t ab\t ?is "t ?r\gh\t ! ,*ur* ! =ms ( ecclesia/ical g>m5ts 7 consid]ably modifi$1 & made m com=table = ! (ficiat+ prie/2 & ! old traditional trabea 0 cut d[n to ! m$ival *asuble4 ,engli% ne$lework ( ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies _h its own peculi> /yle ( metal-"w patt]n1 resembl+ ! h+es & spread+ c5tral ornam5t bran*+ across ! wood-"w on our *ur* doors4#eba ,:5 we meet ) ?is k9d ( design on =eign *ur* ve/m5ts1 we feel incl9$ always to claim ! m]it ( !m = ! ,engli% s*ool4 ,! =eign metal-"w patt]ns are mu* light] & m geometrical1 & h n ! firmness & at ! same "t ! fancy t we f9d 9 our own ( ! twelf? c5tury2 & !y rem9d u r ( ! goldsmi?s' ?an ( ! blacksmi?s' craft4 ,! ,engli% embroid]y ( ?is /yle has ! "* ( appliqu1 i4e4 "o mat]ial laid ^u ano!r & fa/5$ d[n4 ,!re are diff]5ces ( op9ion z to ! accept$ *>act]i/ics ( ! opus ,anglicanum1 :i* 9 ! twelf? c5tury began to be celebrat$4#ebb ,"s say t x 0 pr9cipally rem>kable = its admixture ( jewell]s' "w 9 ! bord]s1 or ! imitation ( x 9 gold ?read4 ,"s give ! attempt to reproduce ! effect ( bas-reliefs 9 ! embroid]$ gr\ps ( figures2 o!rs1 aga91 po9t out ! peculi>ities ( ! laid /it*es 9 gold1 :i* s p]meat$ ! l95 gr\nd+1 z to give ! look ( a mat]ial wov5 ) gold ?read4 ,we may fairly say t all ^!1 :i* 7 !n +5i\s novelties1 comb9$ to give ?is opus ,anglicanum its value1 z well = its beauty z = its +5uity4#ebc ,! ,syon cope1 7n[ "o ( ! treasures ( art 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum71 is a p]fect example ( ?is "w2 & is also1 accord+ to ,bock1 "o ( ! mo/ beautiful among ! liturgical ve/m5ts ( ! old5 p]iod any:]e to be f\nd 9 ,*ri/5dom4 ,dr4 ,rock's /udy ( ?is piece ( ?irte5? c5tury "w 9 8 ,catalogue ( ! ,embroid]ies 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum is mo/ int]e/+1 z exemplify+ all ! *>act]i/ics ( ! ,go?ic art ( ! p]iod1 9 its hi/orical1 /hetic1 h]aldic1 liturgical1 emblematical1 & textile aspects4 ,i h v5tur$ to transcribe ! :ole ( ?is notice 9 ! ,app5dix4#ebd ,i w only add "h t ! "o error into :i* ,i ?9k he has fall51 is 9 nam+ ! /it*es4 ,! diap]s are n opus plum>ium1 b opus pulv9>ium1 ( ! class ( laid /it*es4 ,?is 0 asc]ta9$ by exam9+ ! back ( ! mat]ial "u ! anci5t l9+ by a mo/ compet5t judge#ebe 9 my pres5ce1 & s a long-disput$ po9t is set at re/ 7plate #fg74 ,ciamp9i says t 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 ! arts w5t h& 9 h&1 ea* l5d+ some?+ to ! design ( ! o!rs4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 has always be5 ! case4#ebf 7,:e!r !y greatly pr(it$ by su* ex*anges is ano!r "q47 ,i _c b agree ) ,semp]'s (t5-reit]at$ !ory1 t textile art 0 a lead+ influ5ce & con/ant sugge/ion to all art f ! beg9n+4 ,& ! way t ecclesia/ical decoration 0 s l$ 9 ! twelf? c5tury is v app>5t4 ,9 ! new art ( /a9$ mosaic glass 9 *ur* w9d[s we see ! reflex ( ! flat illum9ations & embroid]ies ( t p]iod2 & :ile ^! 7 be+ influ5c$ by metal-"w1 pa9t+ 0 be+ transf]r$ aga9 to textile art1 pictures be+ wov5 z well z embroid]$1#ebg :ile textiles 7 seek+ to emulate reliefs 9 a =c$ & unnatural mann]1 m +5i\s ?an arti/ic4 ,:ile ,engl& 9 ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies 0 excit+ ! admiration ( all ,european arti/s by ! imitation ( bas-reliefs 9 ne$lework1 by ! arrangem5t ( ! light & %ad[s 9 ! lay ( ! /it*es1 & by a little help f ! pressure ( hot irons1 to acc5tuate its app>5t ind5tations1 a simil> inroad into ! si/] art ( sculpture1 or1 p]haps1 we %\ld say a simil> adaptation f ! si/] art1 0 go+ on 9 ,switz]l& & ,g]many1 especially 9 ,bav>ia4 ,!re 0 a clev] & arti/ic mode ( /uff+ & rais+ ( ! important p>ts ( ! embroid]$ design1 su* z ! figures1 ! coats-(-arms1 or ! emblems ( ! ,passion1 c41 9 sacr$ subjects 9 imitation ( high-relief4 ,!re are "s beautiful specim5s t h be5 evid5tly design$ 9 ! ,s*ool ( ,crana*4 ,i w only m5tion ! orphrey1 ( :i* ! subject is ! ,tree ( ,jesse1 exhibit$ at ,zuri*1 #ahhc1 ! *asuble at ,coire 9 ! ,grisons1 & ! little tripty* 9 ! museum ( ! ,wass]-,kir*e 9 ,zuri*4 ,?is la/ is exquisitely pretty4 ,! f9e/1 h[ev]1 is ! alt>-piece belong+ to ,pr9ce ,borghese at ,rome1 :i* is c]ta9ly ,g]man 9 its design4#ebh ,beautiful z ^! few examples are1 !y yet %[ ! mi/ake ( mix+ diff]5t =ms ( art4 ,! designs are r$uc$ to a compromise betwe5 pa9t+1 sculpture1 & ne$lework1 :i* excites int]e/ & p]haps amusem5t r ?an admiration4 ,glass pa9t+1 ( :i* we h no notice till ! t5? c5tury1 %>es _m ( ! rules :i* hi!rto _h appli$ only to embroid]ies4 ,x 0 int5d$ to give col\r & int]e/ to ^? p>ts ( a build+ :i* o!rwise 7 cold & lifeless4 ,flatness 9 ! composition1 & ! avoidance ( pictorial effects 7especially any p]spectives7 %[ t x 0 int5d$ = conv5tional decoration1 r ?an z a rival to mural pa9t+4 ,!re is no d\bt t x g5]ally sup]s$$ textile hang+s1 because x suppli$ ! want ( col\r = ! l>ge trac]i$ w9d[s j com+ into ar*itectural design1 ton+ d[n ! crud5ess ( ! masses ( light1 & t9t+ ! walls & pavem5ts on :i* x 0 ca/4 ,:5 col\r$ glass came into g5]al use1 embroid]$ hang+s mo/ly disappe>$4 ,:atev] may h be5 ! cause1 !re is no d\bt ( ! co9cid5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #fh4 ,an embroid]$ ,panel1 design$ by ,pollaiolo1 & work$ by ,paulo da ,v]ona4 ,9 ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,giovanni at ,flor5ce 7fifte5? c5tury74 ,! appli$ embroid]ies ( ! nor? ( ,g]many 7 evid5tly inspir$ by ! newly-discov]$ art ( glass-pa9t+1 & resemble its designs1 bo? 9 ! compositions ( figures & h]aldic subjects4 ,( ?is we may rememb] examples 9 ! ,sc&9avian ,exhibition at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 9 #ahha4ebi ,all ! mo/ beautiful & picturesque ne$lework t we possess ( ! true ecclesia/ical ,go?ic type1 & :i* belongs to ! p]fect fl[]+ ( ! art1 is ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 j be=e ! _s ( ! ,r5aissance crept nor?w>d ov] ,europe1 prec$+ ! ,re=mation & its iconocla/ic effacem5ts4 ,?is rem>k especially applies to ,engl&4#ecj ,! art ( repres5t+ ,scriptural subjects 9 flat /it*es1 z m$allions accompani$ by beautiful foliage1 & h]aldic designs1 is illu/rat$ to u by ! palls belong+ to sev]al ,london companies--& by ^? belong+ to *ur*es1 especially t ( ! *ur* at ,dun/able1 9 :i* c\rt ladies1 knights1 & sa9ts =m a mo/ arti/ic bord]--! co/umes be+ ( ! date ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 7see p4 #cgh1 po/74 ,! p]fection ( ! embroid]ies ( ,fl&]s ( t p]iod has nev] be5 exce$$1 & x cont9ues /ill to produce ! mo/ spl5didly execut$ compositions 9 gold & silk5 ne$lework1 ( e v>iety ( /it*es4 ,! ,flemi% "w & its peculi> mode ( lay+ gold5 gr\nds ) flat-laid ?read /it*$ d[n 9 patt]ns 0 c>ri$ into ,italy1 :]e great arti/s did n disda9 to design = textiles4 ,i give1 z an in/ance1 ,vas>i's acc\nt ( ! embroid]$ set ( ve/m5ts design$ by ,antonio ,pollaiolo = ! *ur* ( ,san ,giovanni at ,flor5ce4 ,^! 7 c>ri$ out by ,paolo da ,v]ona1 & took tw5ty-six ye>s = _! completion2 & !y 7 only "o set ( ve/m5ts1 embroid]$ by ! mo/ subtle ma/] ( ! art1 ,paolo da ,v]ona1 a man mo/ em95t 9 8 call+1 & ( incomp>able +5uity 7+5io74 ,! figures are no less admirably execut$ ) ! ne$le ?an drawn by ,pollaiolo ) ! p5cil1--& ?us we are l>gely indebt$ to "o ma/] = 8 design1 & to ! o!r = 8 pati5ce 7plate #fh74 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury ! ,go?ic /yles 7 replac$ by ! ,r5aissance1 b ! te*nical "p ( ! art ( embroid]y = ! *ur*es lo/ none ( its value4 ,all ! tal5t ( ! arti/ & ! +5uity ( ! craft cont9u$ to be lavi%$ on alt> decoration & prie/ly g>m5ts1 9 ,fl&]s1 ,spa91 ,france1 & ,italy4 ,b ! solemnity ( ^! works 0 c]ta9ly impair$ by _! be+ emancipat$ f ! traditional ecclesia/ical =ms & _! accompany+ symbolism1 to :i* ! old design]s _h s fai?fully adh]$4 ,ecclesia/ical decorative art became1 s to speak1 unor?odox4 ,z a pro( ( ?is secul>1 ,i might almo/ say irrev]5t _s1 ,i quote ,bock's accusation aga9/ ,que5 ,m>y ( ,hung>y1 :o 9 h] embroid]ies1 pres]v$ at ,aix-la-,*apelle1 is said to h repres5t$ h]self z ! ,que5 ( ,heav51 surr\nd$ by h] ador]s on _! knees4 ,!re is no d\bt1 h[ev]1 t ne$lework aspir$ 9 ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies to ! highe/ place 9 art1 & 0 en?usia/ically cultivat$ by wom5 ( rank & position1 ( arti/ic ta/e1 :o /ill gave !mselves to ! productions ( beautiful decorations1 ?\gh !y no long] conf9$ !mselves to ecclesia/ical motives4 ,illu/ration3 ,spani% ,alt> ,frontal1 ,gold ,embroid]y ,,xvii4 ,c5y ,gabrielle ( ,b\rbon & ,isabella1 si/] ( ,l\is ,,xi41 sp5t _! lives 9 prep>+ & ov]look+ f9e works 9 _! own ap>tm5ts1 & assembl$ ar\nd !m noble damsels = ?is purpose4 ,anne ( ,brittany1 :o liv$ 9 an arti/ic atmosph]e1 _h h] own work%op ( embroid]y4 ,pictorial design n[ ass]t$ its dom9ion ov] ne$lework1 :i* accept$ x1 j z x _h be5 influ5c$ 9 ! elev5? & twelf? c5turies by metal-"w motives1 &1 be=e !n1 by ! art ( mosaic4 ,9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies ! ,spani% plt]esque embroid]ies 7adopt$ & modifi$ 9 ,fl&]s & 9 ,france71 consi/+ ( heavy gold & silv] arabesques ( mutilat$ vegetable =ms1 sup]s$$ ! graceful ,r5aissance ( ! classical ta/e4#eca ,^! ,spani% embroid]ies =c$ _! way by _! gorge\sness1 9 spite ( _! want ( real beauty4 ,!y v>i$ _! effects ) pe>ls1 corals1 & preci\s /ones#ecb 7plate #fi74 ,spa91 ?\gh %e 0 mu* despoil$ dur+ ! ,p59sul> ,w> by h] ,fr5* invad]s1 yet /ill possesses "s ( ! f9e/ ecclesia/ical "w 9 ! sacri/ies ( ,seville1 ,granada1 ,burgos1 ,tol$o1 ,segovia1 & ,b>celona4 ,don ,juan ,f4 ,riano#ecc says t ,tol$o is a p]fect museum ( ! "w ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,sicilian & ,neapolitan ecclesia/ical ne$lework %[$ ! ,spani% ta/e ( _! ma/]s1 b n its p]fection4 ,! use ( pe>ls1 coral1 & beads#ecd prevail$1 & we may 9 g5]al affix its date & its orig9 to ea* specim5 by ! silv] l>gely us$ 9 ! two k+doms ( ,sicily & r>ely else:]e2 also by ! extreme brilliancy or r ! gaud9ess ( its col\r+4 ,engli% ecclesia/ical "w came sudd5ly to an end at ! ,re=mation4 ,:at 0 n de/roy$ is to be f\nd 9 ! possession ( ! old ,roman ,ca?olic families :o h religi\sly collect$ ! residue1 pres]v$ by concealm5t or by be+ ov]look$2 & 9 ! w>drobes ( ,cont95tal sacri/ies4#ece ,b ! *ur* decorations ( ,france1 ,g]many1 ,fl&]s1 ,spa91 & ,italy h meantime1 = ! la/ #cjj ye>s1 gone ?r\gh all ! v>iations ( lay /yles1 emanat+ f any?+ b ecclesia/ical motives4 ,fir/1 ! ,r5aissance's semi-pagan 7s-call$7 arabesques2 !n ! ,spani% plt]esque1 :i* 0 a revolt aga9/ _! own ba/>d ,moori%-,go?ic2 next1 ! ,l\is ,quatorze1 foll[$ by ! ,l\is ,qu9ze & ! ,l\is ,seize1 light1 frivol\s1 & elegant1 ess5tially social1 & n s]i\s4#ecf ,!n a return to ! classical ( ! ,empire2 & f9ally1 s9ce ! beg9n+ ( ?is c5tury1 to a conglom]ate1 lawless imitation ( =ms & /yles1 utt]ly mean+less & un9t]e/+1 z well z want+ 9 ecclesia/ical dignity & decorum4 ,we are glad to believe t we are ourselves /riv+ to recon/ruct "s sort ( /yle t %all be able to express poetical & religi\s ideas1 especially 9 our *ur* decorations4 ,at any rate1 x mu/ be ( "s use to und]/& ! hidd5 spr+s :i* once rais$ ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 & especially ^? ( ,engl&1 s high z objects ( beauty1 wor?y to adorn ! h\se ( ,god1 & to be = c5turies valu$ z monum5ts ( pi\s indu/ry & ?\ghtful art4 ,"o ( ^! hidd5 spr+s & anci5t und]ly+ motives 0 ! symbolism :i* gave a religi\s int5tion to ! smalle/ design = ! humble/ use1 provid$ t its purpose 0 ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*4 ,sacr$ symbolism is a subject to :i* ,i h allud$ m ?an once2 & x has play$ su* an important "p 9 ! con/ruction & gr[? ( ecclesia/ical art1 t ,i _c b give a %ort notice to ! subject "u ?is aspect4 ,symbolism 9 art is :at metaphor is 9 spee*4 ,x is ! repres5tation to ! eye ( an object :i* sugge/s some?+ else besides itself4 ,dr4 ,rock tells u t ! symbolism ( ,scripture texts 0 giv5 to ! _w 9 a book by ,/4 ,melito1 ,bi%op ( ,s>dis1 ,a4,d4 #agj4 ,its title is ,! ,key4#ecg ,9 ! f\r? c5tury 7 produc$ two great works on ,scriptural symbols1 t ( ,/4 ,basil 9 8 homilies on ! six days ( ! creation1 & t by ,/4 ,ambrose2 bo? entitl$ ,hexam]on4 ,we meet ?is subject at e turn 9 ! succe$+ c5turies1 till 9 ! twelf? we f9d x =mulat$ & divid$ into bran*es--,be/i>ia1 ,volucr>ia1 & ,lapid>ia--& ea* type _h frequ5tly m ?an "o mean+4 ,?us a lion repres5t$ p[]1 sov]eignty1 dom9ion2 also ! ,h\se ( ,judah2 a h>e ! emblem ( man's s\l2 a peacock t ( wisdom 7_m-ey$74 ,! ruby repres5ts love4 ,! pe>l1 innoc5ce4 ,! twelve /ones 9 a brea/plate1 ! twelve tribes ( ,israel4#ech ,trees & fl[]s _h also _! symbolical mean+s1 ?\gh we are n aw>e ( _! be+ record$ 9 any m$ival book4 ,we "k t ! v9e is ! tree ( life2 ! /em ( ,jesse1 ! sacram5tal emblem2 t ! lily /&s = purity1 ! woodb9e = *a/ity1 & ! rose = religi\s ec/asy4 ,! cr[n$ lily 0 always ! special emblem ( ! ,virg94 ,^! symbols _h _m ( !m a di/ant s\rce1 & _h be51 z ,i h already indicat$1 emblematic ( o!r inn] mean+s 9 ! expression ( pagan fai?s4 ,! tree ( life 0 ,babylonian2 ! horn1 ,p]sian2 ! fire-/icks ( ! prehi/oric cross1 ,egyptian or ,indian2 & ! composite animals repres5t+ _m qualities1 ,n9evite 7probably ,accadian74#eci ,all ^! 7 utiliz$1 s t _! already accept$ uses %\ld be helps & adjuncts1 in/ead ( imp$im5ts to ! appreciation ( div9e tru?s2 9 ! same way t all t 0 lovely & ( good repute 9 ! belief & morals ( ! anci5t peoples1 reass]t$ & purifi$1 0 claim$ by ! new tea*]s z types & antitypes4 ,! symbolism ( col\rs has be5 always consid]$ v important 9 liturgical decoration1#edj & _! mean+s are discuss$ 9 ! *apt] on col\r4 ,! my/ical col\rs1 z has be5 already /at$1 are five--r$1 blue1 purple1 :ite1 & gold4 ,^! ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* inh]it$ f ! ,levitical law1 & cont9u$ fai?ful to !m till ! mod]n ,roman use introduc$ gre5 & black4 ,! ,*ur* ( ,engl& be=e ! ,re=mation nev] all[$ any b ! orig9al five my/ic col\rs4 ,! symbolism ( ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 z well z t ( all ,*ri/ian art1 be+ int5d$ to illu/rate ! tru?s ( ,*ri/ianity by ! tea*+ ( ! eye1 ! great symbol ( our fai?1 ! ,cross1 naturally drew to itself all its prehi/oric =ms z be+ ! prophetic types ( ! true cross4 ,! e>lie/ =m ( ! prehi/oric cross1 ,illu/ration1 is suppos$ to ref] to ! wor%ip ( ! sun1 & is said to be =m$ ( two fire-/icks 7= produc+ fire by friction7 laid across ea* o!r4 ,?is is almo/ univ]sal 9 prehi/oric1 ar*aic1 classical1 & ,*ri/ian art to ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! next mo/ anci5t =m is a brok5 cross1 ?us1 ,illu/ration1 said to be ! d\ble ( ! ,tau1 or ,egyptian sign ( life1 & claim$ by ! ,rabb9s z hav+ be5 ! sign 9 blood1 :i* /opp$ ! h& ( ! angel ( dea?1 ov] ! doors ( ! ,israelites at ! fir/ ,passov]4 ,?is aft]w>ds 0 call$ ! ,gammadion1 f its lik5ess to a d\bl$ ,greek gamma1 & x 0 also said to symbolize ! corn]-/one4#eda ,! ?ird commone/ =m1 app>5tly a modification ( t ( ! fire-/icks1 ,illu/ration1 is to be f\nd ?r\gh\t ,celtic & ,sc&9avian art1 & 0 call$ 9 ,engl& ! fylfote 7f its lik5ess to ! arms ( ! ,isle ( ,man71 & likewise ! ,gammadion1 ?\gh x %[s ano!r s\rce ?an ! ,greek lett]4 ,f ^! ?ree =ms already 9 use1 add$ to t ( ! ,crucifixion1 endless v>ieties 7 compos$ to suit ! ecclesia/ical ta/e & requirem5ts ( diff]5t national /yles ( symbolical decoration4 ,i ref] my read]s to plate #bf 9 ! *apt] on patt]ns = a few ( ^! f diff]5t s\rces4 ,!y are extremely sugge/ive4 ,i h !re ent]$ m fully into ! subject1 reg>d+ x z a f]tile patt]n motive 9 textile art4#edb ,! cross be>+ twelve fruits = ! sav+ ( ! nations#edc is s l "s ( ! repres5tations ( ! ,p]sian or ,indian ,tree ( ,life1 t ! transmission & adoption ( ! symbolic =m is evid5t4 ,! cross 7plate #fc7 is a good m$ival example1 & is tak5 f ! celebrat$ rose-col\r$ cope at ,rheims1 embroid]$ ) gold & pe>ls on a rose-col\r$ sat9 gr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gj4 ,,ivory ,,consul> ,,dipty*4 #a4 ,9 ! ,wass]-,kir*e ,museum1 ,zuri*4 ,six? c5tury4 #b4 ,( an e>li] p]iod1 & f9] workman%ip1 at ,halb]/adt4 ,no date giv54 ,! ,ros is an ecclesia/ical patt]n ( wide use & ( v long desc5t1 (t5 nam$ 9 anci5t ,*ur* inv5tories4 ,x is sometimes call$ ! ,:eel & ,plate4 ,its orig9 is probably ,ori5tal1 b x c]ta9ly 0 adopt$ by ! ,romans z ! motive ( _! triumphal g>m5ts1 ! tog pict1 worn 9 ! processional return ( a conqu]or1 :e!r he 7 a g5]al or a sov]eign4 ,! fir/ motive 0 a surface cov]$ ) circles1 closely t\*+ ea* o!r1 & conta9+ figures :i* _h a ref]5ce to _! purpose4 ,9 ,*ri/ian times ! heads ( sa9ts 7 sometimes ins]t$1 especially 9 t =m ( ! ,ros call$ ! *rysoclavus1 f ! int]/icial ornam5t betwe5 ! circles4 ,i h writt5 7p4 #cjh-i7 ab\t ! ,trabea1 :i* on ! ,roman consul> ivory dipty*s ( sev]al c5turies is s inv>iably embroid]$ ) ?is same clavus patt]n 7plate #gj7 t we mu/ conclude t x _h a mean+ & a tradition4 ,! v anci5t sup]/ition t driv+ 9 a nail is a =tunate rite1 may h be5 connect$ ) ! patt]n call$ ! clavus2 & ! *rysoclavus1 f be+ m]ely a nail patt]n1 became consecrat$ 9 ,*ri/ian art z repres5t+ ! heads ( ! nails ( ! ,crucifixion1 & h5ce its e>ly ,*ri/ian "n4#edd ,x 0 orig9ally fill$ 9 ) a radiat$ ornam5t l ! sun2 7probably ! fir/ motive ( ?is patt]n1 :i* seems to be ! same z ! ,egyptian sun-cross17 & its peculi> decoration rema9$ 9 possession ( ! descriptive "n palmat$1 ?\gh x is difficult to discov] 9 x any lik5ess to ! palm bran* or tree1 unless x is suppos$ to resemble x z se5 f above4 ,! toga triumphalis 0 also call$ ! toga picta1 because its preci\s purple fabric 0 cov]$ ) gorge\s embroid]ies4 ,aft] x _h be5 worn at ! triumph or fe/ival1 by ! victori\s g5]al1 ! di/+ui%$ noble1 or ! ,emp]or1 x 0 laid by & d$icat$ 9 ! temple ( ,jupit] ,capitol9us4 ,?us ^! palmat$ triumphal patt]ns1 & _! traditional decorations1 hav+ by _! d$ication to ! gods assum$ a religi\s "*1 7 wov5 = ,*ri/ian ecclesia/ical use dur+ ! d>k ages1 & 7 repeat$ 9 ,sicily & ,spa9 d[n to ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury4#ede ,i h else:]e spok5 ( ! cl\d patt]n1 :i* is v anci5t1 ,*9ese1 ,indian1 & m$ival4 ,its use has always be5 = cele/ial subjects 9 embroid]y1 ei!r isolat+ or support+ spiritual figures4 ,?is 0 appropriat$ by ecclesia/ical art1 & we f9d x n[h]e else 9 ,europe4 ,?is sket* ( ! hi/ory ( ecclesia/ical ne$lework1 7necess>ily incomplete f want ( space71 is f\nd$ on ! works ( ,semp]1 ,bock1 ,rock1 & ! comp>ison ( _m specim5s 9 collections & exhibitions 9 ,london & else:]e4 ,aub]ville absolutely places be=e u ! mat]ials z well z ! patt]ns ( ! weav+ ( ! ,*ri/ian era1 z well z fragm5ts ( ,egyptian textiles1 9 8 beautiful book on ,tissues4 ,= =ms & patt]ns we _c d bett] ?an /udy ,bock's liturgical *apt]s & _! illu/rations1 z well z ,dr4 ,rock's ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs4 ,! /it*]y ( ,*ri/ian art has be5 discuss$ 9 ! *apt] on /it*es1 & ,i repeat t !re is no?+ new 9 ! treatm5t ( solid embroid]ies1 7lace /it*es hav+ be5 ! only innovation ( ! la/ #djj ye>s71 ?\gh _m ( ! anci5t /it*es h lo/ _! di/9ctiv5ess1 & fall5 into a pitiful /yle by gradual desc5t :i* rea*$ its l[e/ po9t 9 ! e>ly "p ( ?is c5tury1 z is %[n by ! robes embroid]$ = ! coronation ( ,*>les ,x4 9 ! museum ( ! ,l\vre4 ,9 ! comm5cem5t ( ?is our n9ete5? c5tury1 !re 0 a total cessation ( embroid]y1 :i* _h1 = ne>ly #bjjj ye>s held its own z an art1 ap>t f all o!rs2 p]haps a second>y "o--yet mix$ up ) e ref9em5t & luxury ( civilization4 ,its revival 9 ,engl&1 especially1 is ow+ to _m causes4 ,z ecclesia/ical decoration ,i h already attribut$ x to ! ar*ological t5d5cies ( our day1 z well z to ! /hetic s5tim5t :i* prote/s1 aft] s long a p]iod ( ab/5tion1 aga9/ ! puritanical b>5ess & coldness ( our national =ms ( wor%ip4 ,! oblit]ation ( embroid]y f ! li/ ( ! arts 0 m complete 9 ,engl& ?an else:]e2 z ! *ur* ( ,rome /ill cont9u$ to be adorn$ ) beautiful "w on alt>-clo?s & frontals1 & prie/'s dresses1 :i*1 ?\gh too mu* regulat$ 9 design by ! lay ta/es & fa%ions ( ! "t1 h comb9$ to keep up a traditional s*ool ( ne$lework ?r\gh\t ! ,cont95t4 ,exhibitions abroad & at home h %[n u :at a lat5t p[] 9 art embroid]y /ill pres]ves1 & ar*itects h employ$ ! wom5's ne$les to give col\r & beauty to ! decay+ *ur*es1 :i* h be5 re/or$ to _! orig9al ar*itectural effects by c>eful copies ( :at rema9$ 9 wood1 /one1 & glass4 ,! numb] ( new *ur*es has also giv5 rise to ! production1 9 m ?an "o semi-conv5tual e/abli%m5t1 ( beautiful & effective works1 su* z ! alt>-clo? at ,durham1 & ^? at ,cant]bury & ,worce/]4 ,su* works h reviv$ ! impulse ( arti/ic & ecclesia/ical ta/e1 & 9 _m small *ur*es we h se5 beautifully embroid]$ alt> decorations4#edf ,!re are1 h[ev]1 _m amateurs :o are p]haps mi/resses ( ! craft ( ne$lework1 & :o are yet n educat$ suffici5tly to design a really ?\ghtful & beautiful "w ( art1 & to ^! a few rem>ks may be address$1 :i* may help ! /ruggl+ aspirants1 & %[ !m h[ !y fail1 & :]e to seek = assi/ance4 ,i %all beg9 by plead+ = m c>eful design1 & less p>simony 9 exp5diture ^u ! usual *ur* adornm5ts4 ,x is once m a receiv$ dogma 9 ecclesia/ical art1 "o 9 :i* all religi\s op9ions agree1 t ! build+ 9 ! p>i% :i* is set ap>t = ! fir/ public duty1 t ( wor%ip1 %\ld %[ z mu* beauty z ! means & ta/e ( ! community c comm&4 ,p]haps ! little *ur* has j be5 re/or$1 or completely rebuilt f ! f\ndations2 ! consecration is imm95t4 ,! :ite /one1 c>v$ or pla91 %9es fre% & cold1 & ! :ole space looks poor & b>e4 ,! ri* woman ( ! neighb\rhood sees & feels t col\r is want+ 7= ! w9d[s mu/ wait till _! use z pi\s memorials fills !m ) gl[+ t9ts74 ,! c5tral po9t ( ! :ole edifice1 ! alt>1 calls = ! fir/ key-note 9 col\r to be /ruck1 & a spl5did alt>-clo? is ! fitt+ in/rum5t4 ,%e consults ! ar*itect1 :o probably is also an arti/1 & ! design is agre$ ^u1 & hurri$ly drawn & c>ri$ out2 = !re is n a mom5t to lose if x is to be ready = ! op5+ day4 ,x may be beautiful1 & x sometimes is s1 b ! m]e want ( "t = due consid]ation (t5 results 9 ! commonplace ornam5tation1 :i* nei!r satisfies ! eye nor ! m9d4 ,x is (t5 only a m]e bit ( col\r & a m$ival patt]n1 & has no app>5t motive or mean+ to give x value4 ,"o sometimes f9ds t a conv5tional =m has be5 select$1 ( :i* ! emblematic int5tion x orig9ally express$ has be5 =gott5 or ov]look$4 ,!re=e1 :ile to ! unle>n$ x conveys no mean+1 x is read z absolute nons5se by ! ecclesia/ical ar*ologi/1 simply because x is work$ 9 a language ( undeciph]$ hi]oglyphics--unkn[n to ! work]--mean+less1 rem9d+ u ( ! ,grco-,egyptian inscriptions1 ( :i* ! pictur$ words seem to h be5 copi$ at r&om = _! prett9ess1 or ! ,arabian lett]+ on "s ( ! anci5t ,sicilian textiles1 :i* is nons5se4 ,! s5se & ! emblematic mean+ are =gott51 & ! conv5tional =m--an empty %ell--is alone reta9$1 convey+ no idea1 & r$uc$ to ! l[ purpose ( be+ a pretty patt]n1 vague & un9tellig5t4 ,i h s (t5 said t a patt]n always orig9ally possess$1 & %\ld always reta9 a mean+1 t ,i fe> to become tiresome2 b ,i repeat x "h1 z 9 ecclesia/ical design x is m important ?an else:]e2 ! mean+s are deep]1 & convey m ess5tially solemn traditions & allusions4 ,if ! motive ( ! design] is evid5t1 & is consci5ti\sly work$ out1 its value receives an endur+ quality1 & its pres5t int]e/ is enhanc$4 ,embroid]y is n less eloqu5t ?an h] si/]-arts 9 ! tea*+ ( div9e lessons1 & appeal+ ?r\gh ! beauty ( =m & col\r to ! poetical in/9cts ( ! congregation1 ( :i* ! lea/ educat$ memb]s almo/ unconsci\sly feel ! influ5ce2 & besides1 ! p are always alive to ! *>ms ( symbolism1 :5 x is plac$ )9 _! rea*4 ,z a pro( ( ?is1 among our own peasantry & me*anics1 ,i w\ld po9t to _! univ]sal enjoym5t ( ! ,pilgrim's ,progress4 ,9 ! symbolism ( art1 ! ?\ghts :i* are individual to ! arti/ c only be express$ by kn[n =ms & col\rs1 ev5 z ! poet mu/ employ ! words & ! metres already accept$ by ! lit]ature ( 8 language4 ,hurry is fatal to art4 ,b ano!r & v s]i\s cause ( its det]ioration is its co/l9ess4 ,9 ! d>k & m$ival ages1 "t 0 ( no acc\nt4 ,skill$ lab\r1 su* z 0 ne$$ = c>v+1 illum9ations1 & embroid]ies1 0 freely giv5 z ! duty ( a life1 = "o p>ticul> object1 ! good ( a man's s\l4 ,! cloi/]$ m5 & wom5 work$ = no wages2 nei!r to b5efit !mselves nor _! desc5dants2 h>dly = fame1--t 0 giv5 to ! conv5t :i* _h ! cr$it ( patroniz+ & produc+ art1#edg :ile ! v "n ( ! arti/ 0 =gott54 ,x 0 f pure love ( ! art z a craft1 & ! belief t x 0 a good "w 9 :i* !y 7 engag$1 & f _! abundant leisure1 t !y 7 enabl$ to evolve ! lovely creations :i* delight & a/oni% u :5 %[n 9 ! sacri/ies & treasuries ( =eign religi\s h\ses & *ur*es1 :]e !y h be5 *]i%$ = c5turies4 ,l ! silkworm !y sp5t !mselves2 & by _! indu/ri\s lives 7 surr\nd$ 9 _! liv+ graves by ! elaborat$ ess5ce ( _! own natures1 a joy & consolation to !mselves1 & a legacy to all "t4 ,to !m1 also1 art appe>$ z ! consol]4 ,b to return to ! grievances ( to-day--*eapness & hurry1 economy ( p5ce & h\rs--^! (t5 are ! bane ( ! "w :i* we give to ! ,*ur*1 sometimes z a memorial1 sometimes z a ?ank-(f]+4 ,! col\rs are bad1 because *eap dyes fade1 & none o!rs c be _h )\t mu* tr\ble1 & we h only "t to select among ^? t are = sale4 ,! "w is poor because x mu/ be done quickly1 & we _c af=d to delay & pay = ! extra h\rs necess>y to make ! /it*es wor?y & capable ( la/+4 ,possibly we _c give ! "t ourselves1 nor c f9d any "o effectually to organize & ov]look ! "w4 ,?\gh ! design1 ! motive1 ! col\rs & mat]ials1 z well z ! /it*es1 ne$ to be ea* c>efully /udi$1 yet we p]haps accept an anci5t draw+ int5d$ = a diff]5t place & use2 & ?us we fail to produce any effect1 ) uncong5ial surr\nd+s4 ,sometimes we feel oblig$ to take ! design =c$ ^u u by a %opwoman z ignorant z ourselves1 ) ! submissive hope t x w d4 ,n[ to a truly arti/ic m9d x w\ld appe> t ea* little *ur*1 h[ev] simple & devoid ( ornam5t1 requires its own special col\rs & design1 besides ! individual motive ( ! giv]2 & p =get t ! :ole effect 9 any su* compositions mu/ be compreh5sive1 & t "o c>eless mi/ake spoils all4 ,! ,high ,*ur*1 9 its love ( rituali/ic ve/m5ts1 has sometimes be5 prejudicial to ! g5]al adoption ( prop]ly /udi$ alt> decorations2 z !re is a common suspicion t a cl]gyman's p]sonal wi% = ornam5t1 ak9 to a woman's addiction to f9e clo!s1 gov]ns all 8 attempts to adorn ! alt>2 :]eas !re %\ld be1 & !re (t5 is1 a real arti/ic feel+ = ! fitness ( ?+s1 9 ! furni%+s ( ! mo/ beautiful build+ set aside by ! community = ! glory ( ,god4 ,b x is n necess>y = beautiful effects t !re %\ld be any col\r$ ve/m5ts4 ,:5 ! cl]gy are duly rob$ 9 ! or?odox surplice & sc>ves1 !re is1 p]haps1 some?+ fun]eal 9 ! :ite l95s & black ,g5eva silk1 b yet ! traditional :ite & black h _! own value aga9/ a backgr\nd ( alt>-clo? & r]$os spl5didly col\r$4 ,n[ t1 9 spite ( prejudice1 *ur* decoration is s mu* ! cu/om ( our day1 x is wor? our :ile to consid] s]i\sly h[ be/ to c>ry x out1 & se>* into ! pr9ciples :i* may apply to all ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 :e!r !y are to be d$icat$ 9 ! ,m9/]1 ! village ,*ur*1 or ! home ,*apel4 ,we mu/ beg9 by rememb]+ t 9 ^! days1 if we _c d ! "w ourselves1 x mu/ be highly paid =4 ,! skill$ artisan :o is no arti/1 receives en\gh to fe$ 8 family1 accord+ to ! high] wages ( ! "t4 ,! woman's sl[ /it*]y has to support probably z _m claims1 & yet x is always grudg$ z be+ too co/ly4 ,! sculptor or ! pa9t] :o succe$s 9 obta9+ employm5t1 is highly paid1 b ! design] = metal-"w or embroid]ies occupies an unrecogniz$ place 9 art1 & b>ely e>ns en\gh to live by4 ,! illum9ator has ceas$ to exi/2 he w\ld />ve--probably has be5 />v$ out long ago4 ,! decorative design]1 hav+1 !re=e1 no /atus1 has no education2 & x is almo/ impossible to f9d 9 ,engl& an arti/ to accept ord]s = ?\ghtful ecclesia/ical designs4 ,hundr$s ( boys & girls are taught freeh& draw+1 & hav+ copi$ "s ca/s & li?ographs & drawn "s fl[]-pieces1 )\t any p>ticul> aim1 f9d a prec>i\s liv+ by design+ frightful wall-pap]s = ! million4 ,^! poor creatures1 f ^: lives all ambition & orig9ality h be5 effac$1 are our decorative arti/s4 ,/ill a beautiful orig9al design c sometimes be obta9$1 & if t is beyond our rea*1 we may c\rage\sly copy f anci5t models1 select+ judici\sly :at is mo/ suitable = our purpose4 ,! ecclesia/ical arti/ %\ld be well in=m$ 9 ! modes ( work+ a design4 ,! /it* if select$ )\t exp]i5ce may m> ! effect ( ! :ole composition1 z "s /it*es ( !mselves convey ! mean+ ( %ad[1 & o!rs t ( light4 ,9 ecclesia/ical "w :i* is int5d$ to be effective 9 ! di/ance1 z well z p]fect 9 detail1 x is wor? :ile to weigh ! claims ( ! ar*itectural l[-relief motive1 i4e4 a flat rais$ surface1 ) an edge suffici5tly acc5tuat$ to cat* a light on "o side1 & ca/ a %>p %ad[ on ! o!r4 ,all flat rais$ /it*es conduce also to ?is effect1 especially if edg$ ) a cord1 & x is mu* m /rik+ ?an 9 /uff$ "w 7on ! /amp71 :i* has n ! incisive effect t is giv5 by ! tool to ! %>p edge ( /one or wood c>v+s4 ,if we c af=d to give to our *ur* )\t /9t1 let u seek = ! mo/ beautiful textiles1 su* z are aga9 wov5 9 imitation ( ! old fabrics2 gratefully ackn[l$g+ all t ,pug91 ,rusk91 & ! =eign manufactur]s1 especially ^? at ,lyons1 h done 9 ! revival ( wov5 designs4 ,let u avoid ^? mat]ials :i* are easily spoil$ by sun%9e1 du/1 & smoke1 & all ^? t fray easily4 ,wooll5s are n long liv$4 ,crewels1 beautiful z !y are1 are n sali5t 9 _! effect4 ,silks1 sat9s & velvet1 & gold brocades1#edh or gr\nd+s work$ 9 ) gold ?read1 are ! only mat]ials wor?y ( be>+ f9e embroid]y1 fit to receive !m1 & capable ( keep+ !m = c5turies4 ,plu%es & wor/$ velvets are unwor?y1 inde$ !y are wor?less4 ,! gold we employ mu/ be ei!r pure pass+1 or else ! ,*9ese or ,japanese gold ?reads :i* diff] 9 col\r1 b h ea* _! own value1 & nev] t>ni%1 ev5 9 ! coal smoke ( ,london4 ,pure silv]1 too1 is beautiful1 & if x is really pure1 c be kept bright ) bread crumbs4 ,9 compos+ ! alt> decoration = ! ca!dral or ! village *ur*1 we ought to take into consid]ation :at is suitable = ! surr\nd+ ar*itecture4 ,9 great spaces1 ! maje/ic alt>-clo? or frontal1 %9+ ) gold & silv]1 & gl[+ ) silk5 embroid]ies1 recalls ! spl5did alt> palli encru/$ ) gems 9 ,/4 ,m>k's1 ,/4 ,pet]'s1 & o!r anci5t *ur*es2 & is 9 p]fect keep+ ) ! high & gorge\s r]$os1 ! ri* scre51 ! frett$ ro( & clu/]$ ornam5ts ( a great ca!dral *oir4 ,su* glories are unatta9able 9 ! mode/ village *ur*4 ,b ?\gh we may subdue ! brilliancy ( our decoration1 we %\ld try to make x yet a "w ( art4 ,! design may h z mu* int5tion1 ! "w be z ref9$ & individual1 & ! gold z pure1 z 9 l>g] works4 ,! preci\s metals may be conf9$ to small spaces 9 ! p>ts we desire to acc5tuate1 su* z ! cross 9 ! c5tre1 or ! edges ( ! orphreys1 or !y may be entirely replac$ ) f9e silk "w4 ,! alt>-clo? we desire to pres5t1 may be simply a gift1 s t we may *oose any design t w agree ) ! date ( ! build+4 ,we may pref] any subsequ5t /yle1 b n "o ant]ior to t ( ! ar*itecture4 ,x w\ld be a mi/ake to imitate ,anglo-,saxon ornam5ts 9 a *ur* ( ! flamboyant /yle4 ,p]haps ! alt>-clo? we are discuss+ may be int5d$ z a sort ( votive (f]+1 a memorial ( a baptism1 a w$d+1 or a fun]al4 ,= ! fir/1 :ite silk work$ 9 gold & silv]1 or gold-col\r$ silk1 or p>sem ) conv5tional spr+ fl[]s w\ld be appropriate4 ,= a m>riage1 crimson1 rose-col\r1 blue & gold1 or a mixture ( all ^!1 to produce a fe/ive & gorge\s effect4 ,= a fun]al1 purple or violet silk or velvet1 ) palms & ! cr[n ( ?orns 9 gold or silv]4#edi ,^! w\ld s]ve at ! fe/ivals ( ! ,*ur*3 ! purple = ,good ,friday1#eej ! crimson = ,sa9ts' days1 ! :ite = ,*ri/mas & ,ea/] ,sunday4 ,! r]$os1 or ! scre5 curta9 beh9d ! alt>1 %\ld be made available = enhanc+ its effect1 z well z = enl>g+ ! area ( textile col\r$ decoration4 ,z ?is is int5d$ = a backgr\nd1 x %\ld be ei!r subdu$ or else contra/+1 9 juxtaposition ) t :i* x is int5d$ to supplem5t4 ,wooll5 embroid]ies or tape/ries are ! mo/ usually select$ = ?is purpose4 ,! s(tness ( f9e crewels is well %[n ne> ! m gl[+ t9ts ( silk1 velvet1 & gold ( ! alt> frontal4 ,if ?is is :ite1 or light col\r$1 ! r]$os hang+ %\ld be ( d>k or ri*ly work$ mat]ial2 if ! frontal is d>k1 ! contra/ %\ld be pres]v$ by hang+s ( t5d] %ades4 ,! pulpit & read+-desk1 ) _! small cu%ions & veils1 & beautiful work$ cov]s = ! books1 give opportunities = repetition ( col\r :i* is (t5 requir$ = picturesque effect4 ,i %\ld recomm5d ! "y ecclesia/ical design] to /udy ! pr9ciples :i* guid$ ! au?ors ( "s ( ! f9e ,go?ic examples rema9+ to u1 su* z ! great ,/oneyhur/ cope1 & ! palls ( ! diff]5t ,london companies1 z well z ! v few f9e alt>-clo?s /ill exi/+4 ,all ^! h _! brilliant & effective treatm5t2 !y are int5d$ to be glori\s1 & ei!r repres5t massive jewell]s' "w or tissues ( wr\ght gold4 ,anci5tly1 ! ornam5ts = ! diff]5t *ur* s]vices1 :i* we timidly r$uce to floral decorations 7(t51 h[ev]1 v beautifully plann$ & execut$71 gave ! opportunity = display+ co/ly embroid]$ hang+s4 ,! pas*al ( ! *oir ( ,durham1 = example1 0 a m>vell\s con/ruction ( wood & gild+1 metal-"w1 & 7probably7 hang+s4 ,x 0 z wide z ! lat]al ( ! *oir1 & z high z ! build+1 s t ! c5tral & sev5? c&le/ick 7t f :i* ! new fire = ! ye> 0 k9dl$7 0 s ne> ! ro( t !re 0 a f9e conv5i5ce ?r\gh ! said ro( ( ! *ur* = ! help ( light+ x4 ,i quote f a r>e book pr9t$ by ,g4 ,s4 ,ross = ,mrs4 ,waghorn1 #agcc4 ,?is little book is full ( int]e/+ matt] reg>d+ ,durham ,ca!dral1 ?\gh ! au?or is mo/ conc]n$ 9 relat+ ! v&alisms committ$ by ! dean's wife1 ,mrs4 ,:itt+hame1 :o evid5tly _h no culture1 & a /rong turn = appropriat+ odds & ends1 su* z tomb/ones1 embroid]$ silk1 & o!r curiosities :i* %e deem$ valueless except = h] own purposes1--su* a woman is a real ar*ological mis=tune6 ,! corporax us$ 9 celebrat+ ! mass by ,/4 ,cu?b]t 9 ! sev5? c5tury 7he di$ & 0 buri$ at ,holy ,isle 9 #feg7 0 suppos$ to be end[$ ) miracul\s p[]s & 0 c>ri$ into battle on _m occasions z a bann]4 ,?is bann] 0 ( crimson velvet on bo? sides1 wr\ght ) fl[]s 9 gre5 silk & gold1 & fr+$ ) r$ silk & gold4 ,! corporax clo? 0 ins]t$ 9 ! c5tre1 & cov]$ ) a squ>e ( :ite velvet1 hav+ on x a cross ( r$ velvet1 mo/ artificially work$ & fr+$1 ) little silv] bells 9 ! fr+e4 ,?is 0 c>ri$ into battle1 till ,dame ,:itt+hame did mo/ injuri\sly de/roy ! same 9 h] fire4 ,"o feels z if ?is woman 7 spiteful1 z well z /upid4 ,b = h] puni%m5t1 h] memory is kept q ! contr>y to gre5 by ,mrs4 ,waghorn's c>eful record ( h] iniquities2 :i* has at ! same "t =tunately pres]v$ to u ! description ( ! bann] ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 & gives also an idea ( ! good & sumptu\s furniture ( *angeable suits1 & ( ! div]s ve/m5ts wr\ght & set r\nd ab\t ) pe>ls1 bo? /oles & flannels1 c4 ,look+ at x f a di/ance1 x appe>s t ! fair :ite l95 = ! communion s]vice always requires ! s(t5+ ( ! edges by fr+es1 by cut "w embroid]y1 or by ?ick lace edg+s4 ,if a :ite gr\nd = embroid]y is requir$1 no?+ is m beautiful ?an l951 especially if x is n ov]-blea*$4 ,:ite1 9 art1 %\ld be repres5t$ by ! ne>e/ approa* to no col\r2 b x is m agreeable to ! eye by its be+ temp]$ ) a sugge/ion ( ! natural t9t1 ( :i* all textile sub/ances possess some?+ 7except+ cotton7 be=e !y h pass$ ?r\gh ! h&s ( ! full] or ! *emi/4 ,corporals & veils = ! pyx us$ to be ( :ite l951 embroid]$ ) :ite silk or l95 ?read2 ! silk gives a beautiful1 v>i$1 %9+ brightness4 ,i ?9k a few words %\ld be said ab\t ! fr+e4#eea ,its motive & raison d'tre is ! disposal ( ! ?reads ( ! w>p :5 x is cut out ( ! frame2 ^! be+ ti$ & knott$ symmetrically1 become an arti/ic decoration in/ead ( an untidy tangle ( ?reads & ?rums4 ,edg+ ! mat]ial & f9i%+ x ) its own loose ends is a v anci5t cu/om2 & we c see f ! sculptures ( ,n9eveh t !y 7 great 9 t city 9 ! art ( fr+e-mak+1 & ! ,israelites1 :5 !y made _! hang+s = ! sanctu>y1 trimm$ !m ) fr+es4 ,x /&s to reason t an add$ fr+e %\ld be arrang$ ) ref]5ce to ! orig9 ( ! decoration1 & ! mom5t we ?9k ( x1 ! eye is annoy$ by see+ a deep fr+e ( "o or two col\rs trav]s+ ! :ole wid?s ( ! frontal & sup]-frontal1 q irrelevantly1 & )\t any ref]5ce to ! masses ( col\rs1 wov5 or embroid]$1 above !m2 & ! consequ5ce ( ?is c>elessness is1 t x makes x look z if ?is "p ( ! decoration1 came f ano!r s\rce1 indep5d5t ( ! composition :i* x ought to supplem5t4 ,! fr+e %\ld belong to ! :ole design1 & be c>efully fitt$ to ! spaces occupi$ by ! col\rs above x1 ea* ( its comp>tm5ts or divisions be+ fill$ 9 ) ^? t9ts :i* are mo/ conspicu\s 9 ! g5]al design & w\ld %[ effectively 9 ! w>p4 ,x is n necess>y to acc\nt = all ! col\rs1 z ! ?reads employ$ to =m ! wo( w\ld naturally disappe> at ! sides ( ! web4 ,! sections ( ! fr+e %\ld be skilfully arrang$ s z to reappe> at equal di/ances1 or at lea/ !y %\ld be s balanc$ z to produce t effect4 ,if ?is is impossible1 ! fr+e %\ld be all ( "o %ade1 mat*+ exactly ! gr\nd ( ! textile4 ,x may be reliev$ by clu/]$ knobs1 or hang+ beads or cups ( diff]5t col\rs & gold4 ,! celebrat$ pluvial at ,aix-la-,*apelle has a fr+e ( gold bells hang+ to a gold cord1 :i* amalgamates ) ! patt]n4#eeb ,! veils ( ! ,sanctu>y 9 ! wild]ness 7 fr+$ ) atta*$ ornam5ts1 bells1 blossoms1 knops1 fl[]s1 & fruit1 :i* s\nds extremely pretty4 ,to resume1 let me once m urge t 9 *ur* "w nei!r "t nor tr\ble be sp>$2 nor yet money grudg$1 if possible4 ,! design %\ld be full ( int5tion1 ! /it*+ p]fect1 & ! mat]ials mo/ c>efully *os5 = t9ts1 = endurance & smoo?ness4 ,rememb] t no inf]ior sub/itute w s]ve to give pres5t effect1 nor w x la/ into ! future4 ,design1 z ,i h else:]e said1 is all ! bett] = be+ to a c]ta9 degree circumscrib$1 relegat$1 & regulat$ by ! laws ( traditional usage1 z well z ^? ( good ta/e1 & ?is applies especially to ecclesia/ical design4 ,^! laws s]ve z ! frame :i* encloses ! motive ?\ght1 & makes x a complete :ole1 t c admit ( no amplifications4 ,new symbols %\ld n be adopt$ except = ! expression ( new facts or alt]$ circum/ances1 & ^! c b seldom ent] into liturgical art4 ,!re is s mu* already =mulat$ & admitt$1 & ! area 9 :i* we may ga!r our mat]ials is s l>ge1 t we ne$ n seek = m ?an we f9d "u our h&1 ready = use4 ,besides ! symbolism ( dogma1 we h all ! h]aldry ( ! ,sa9ts2 & c repeat & v>y ! emblems ( ^? to :om ! *ur* we are work+ = is d$icat$4 ,! keys ( ,/4 ,pet]1 ! sword ( ,/4 ,paul1 ! lilies ( ! ,virg91 ! cross ( ,/4 ,&rew1 ! eagle ( ,/4 ,john1--,i ne$ h>dly enum]ate all ^! legitimate s\rces ( decoration4 ,!n !re is ! lay h]aldry :i* belongs to ! hi/ory ( ea* *ur*1 & :i* memorializes ! reign ( ! mon>* :5 x 0 begun1 f9i%$1 or re/or$1 & ! pi\s "w & c>e ( ! f\nd] & b5efactor1 ! ar*itect1 & sometimes t ( ! sculptor4 ,n[ z our =efa!rs accept$ all ?is mat]ial = ecclesia/ical design1 remodell+ x to _! own uses 9 diff]5t c5turies1 s we _c ourselves d bett] ?an imitate !m1 & pr(it by _! exp]i5ce2 nev] miss+ an opportunity ( /udy+ anci5t embroid]ies2 & :ile we admire 9 !m all t is admirable1 & appreciate _! hi/orical & ar*ological value1 we may yet extract great] b5efit = ourselves1 by criticiz+ :at is imp]fect1 z well z :at is possibly a desc5t & failure f a high] type4 ,we mu/ make a judici\s selection ( :at to imitate & :at to avoid4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ,i %\ld w>n ! "y arti/ aga9/ ! imitation ( navet & s-call$ qua9tness2 especially 9 our designs = ,*ur* embroid]y z x is h>dly a noble quality 9 art1 ?\gh we look on x ) a t5d] pity1 half-way betwe5 admiration & contempt1 :5 we f9d x inevitably 9 m$ival "w2 /ruggl+ to ov]come ! expression ( some?+ difficult1 & express+ a difficulty only p>tly ov]come4 ,we f9d ourselves putt+ our m9ds into ! attitude ( ! arti/ :o conceiv$ ^? figures ) arms conv5tionally gr[+ out ( ! encas+ g>m5t2 conv5tionally hold+ a book1 & giv+ a bless+ ) a conv5tional twi/1 n entirely ungraceful1 nor devoid ( a c]ta9 dignity1 r felt ?an p]ceiv$4 ,yet we contemplate !m ) a smile ( consci\s sup]iority1 appreciat+ our own ref9$ s5se ( _! m]its & infant9e progress t[>ds some?+ good1 t "t--a long "t--w\ld1 & did evolve4 ,b ^? ef=ts at la/ culm9at$ 9 a ,*ri/ian art1 su* z is se5 9 ! spl5did =ms & adornm5ts 9 /one1 gold1 silv]1 glass1 & embroid]ies ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies4 ,su* spl5d\rs z ! w9d[s ( ,b\rges1 ! ,sa9te-,*apelle at ,p>is1 or ^? ( ! ,ca!dral ( ,tol$o1 or ,k+'s ,college ,*apel at ,cambridge4 ,su* sculptures & trac]ies z ^? ( ! ,puits de ,moise at ,dijon1 & ! ,*apt] ,h\se at ,s\?well 9 ,nott+ham%ire4 ,su* embroid]ies z ! ,syon cope1 & ! ,borghese tripty*4 ,^! are types wor?y ( all praise1 & !y are full ( in/ruction to ! /ud5t ( ecclesia/ical art4 ,! ,k5s+ton ,museum (f]s u endless help & sugge/ions 9 its v int]e/+ collection ( liturgical ve/m5ts ( e date & s*ool2 & its textiles1 illu/rat$ by ! inv5tory ( _! le>n$ collector1 ,dr4 ,rock1 are mo/ in/ructive4#eec ,9 ! libr>y ( t museum are to be f\nd _m ( ! le>n$ works on ^! subjects by ,fr5* & ,g]man savants4 ,! exhibitions 9 ! ,engli% c\nties are nev] )\t a case or a room full ( embroid]ies1 collect$ f ! treasure-*e/s ( ! neighb\r+ *ur*es & c\ntry h\ses1 & especially f ^? ( ! anci5t ,roman ,ca?olic families4 ,! colleges ( ,oscott & ,/oneyhur/ h collect$1 by pur*ase or by gift1 _m f9e relics ( ! craft1 :i* are mo/ lib]ally grant$ = exhibition4 ,= ^? :o c g fur!r afield !re is in/ruction 9 almo/ e ,cont95tal t[n4 ,rome1 ,flor5ce1 ,milan1 ,tol$o1 ,s5s1 ,rheims1 ,aix-la-,*apelle1 ,b]ne1 ,vi5na1 ,halb]/adt1 ,b]l91 & ,muni*--ea* & all h /ores ( beautiful liturgical objects c>efully pres]v$2 ( _m dates1 & _m /yles1 & %[+ endless v>ieties ( design1 :i* c be employ$ on new works by c>eful selection & adaptation4 ,mo/ ( ^! belong to ! elev5? & succe$+ c5turies2 any e>li] examples are fragm5t>y1 & h g5]ally be5 tak5 f ! tombs ( k+s & bi%ops4 ,x seems to sav\r ( desecration1 ?is op5+ ( %r9es & di/urb+ ! a%es ( ! illu/ri\s dead1 if only = ! satisfaction ( ar*ological curiosity4 ,b except :]e x has hi!rto be5 protect$ by ! sanctity ( ! tomb1 !re is s little t rema9s to u1--s few textiles h surviv$ ! friction ( use1 or ev5 t ( ! air1 ?r\gh z _m z a ?\s& ye>s or m1 t we may plead ! hung] = tru?1 & ! eag] desire = pro(s ( id5tity & v]ification ( hi/orical leg5ds1 :i* are to be extract$ f ! %ape ( a g>m5t1 f ! patt]n on ! bord]1 or ! lett]+ on ! web ( :i* x is compos$2 :5ce we rev]5tly cut a fragm5t1 & pres]ve x "u glass4 ,if /udi\s1 copie fair :at "t ha? blurr'd1 ,r$eem tru? f 8 jawes4#eed ,be=e clos+ ?is *apt]1 ,i w\ld wi% to obs]ve t ,i h ent]$ into ! subject ( *ur* decoration 9 no rituali/ic _s2 ,i d n treat x !ologically1 b z art2 & if ^! decorations are to be c>ri$ out at all1 ,i feel t ,i am r5d]+ a s]vice to ^? ^: duty or pleasure x is to provide !m1 by po9t+ out :]e !y may f9d ! pr9ciples :i* h be5 ! spr+ & life ( m$ival art1 & ! survivals :i* are n[ ! be/ expon5ts ( ^? pr9ciples to guide u 9 ! works ( our day4 ,,footnotes3 #dgi ,figure-draw+ 9 e>ly ,*ri/ian art 0 = ne>ly a ?\s& ye>s primitively b>b>\s1 ) occasional exceptions4 ,! rapid decl9e 9 ,europe1 ?r\gh ! art ( ! ,catacombs & ,/4 ,clem5te at ,rome1 & ! frescoes & mosaics ( ,rav5na1 d[n to ! ,bayeux tape/ries1 is v rem>kable4 ,9 ^? in>ti/ic compositions dur+ ! e>ly ,middle ,ages1 ! figures 7 drawn fac+ ! spectator1 ! head & feet 9 pr(ile1 diff]+ 9 no?+ f ! ,egyptian & ,assyrian modes ( repres5tation4 ,we c h>dly acc\nt = ?is return to *ildi% ways1 f :i* ,greece & ,rome _h s long be5 emancipat$1 except by suppos+ t !y came f ! imitations ( ,ori5tal textiles1 :i* /ill reta9$ v anci5t =ms2 = in/ance1 ! motive ( ! sculptur$ lions ov] ! gate ( ,myc54 ,we _c say t ,greek art 9 ,rome 0 q ext9ct till ! eigh? c5tury4 ,ab\t t "t !re 0 a rem>kable revival 9 ,engl&4 #dhj ,till v lately we h be5 entirely dep5d5t on ! frescoes 9 ! ,catacombs & 9 ! und]gr\nd ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,clem5te at ,rome1 & on monum5tal art & illum9ations1 = our k ( ! textiles ( ! e>lie/ days ( ,*ri/ianity4 ,b ,h]r ,graf's*5's discov]ies 9 ,egypt w1 :5 publi%$1 add greatly to our in=mation on ?is subject4 #dha ,! book by ,p>k] on ! ,liturgical ,use says t only ! five liturgical col\rs 7 p]mitt$ 9 ! use ( ! ,*ur* ( ,engl&4 ,be=e ! ,re=mation ! ,norman & ,engli% liturgical col\rs 7 diff]5t4 7,rock1 ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 ii4 p4 #bfh47 ,p]haps no?+ 0 orig9ally work$ dep>t+ f ?is rule1 b votive (f]+s are inv5tori$ z be+ ( all col\rs1 hav+ be5 accept$ & us$ z decoration & = ve/m5ts4 #dhb ,i h already spok5 ( ! cu/om ( clo?+ ! images ( ! gods z a classical tradition4 ,! ,greeks drap$ _! /atues 9 preci\s g>m5ts1 (t5 ! spoils ( subjugat$ nations1 (f]+s f ! conqu]ors1 or obsequi\s tribute f ! conqu]$4 ,newton 7,app5dix #a7 tells u ( inscriptions conta9+ inv5tories ( old clo!s (f]$ 9 ! ,greek ,temples4 ,ezekiel 7xvi47 speaks ( silk & l95 embroid]ies giv5 = cov]+ ! idols4 ,! images ( ! sa9ts 9 ,roman ,ca?olic *ur*es are1 we "k1 con/antly drap$ 9 spl5did embroid]ies1 & hung ) jewels4 #dhc ,!re is "h an ov]lap ( sev]al c5turies4 #dhd ,*>lemagne's dalmatic1 describ$ h]eaft]1 ( :i* ! p$igree is well asc]ta9$1 ju/ifies ,woltmann & ,wo]mann's !ory2 z ?is eigh?-c5tury embroid]y %[s1 by its design1 t ,greek art 0 /ill a liv+ p[]4 #dhe ,( :i* we h yet examples on ! ,cont95t1 "h & !re2 = in/ance1 9 ! ,ca!dral at ,coire 9 ! ,grisons1 & 9 ! ,romanesque *ur* at ,cl]mont 9 ,auv]gne 7n ! ca!dral74 ,i d n include 9 ?is /atem5t ( ! r>e occurr5ce ( ! ogee1 ! ,european c\ntries :i* 7 subject to ,moori% rule1 i4e4 ,spa9 & ,portugal4 #dhf ,?is1 slightly modifi$1 cont9u$ to prevail till ! "t ( ,l\is ,,xiv41 :5 ,france took ! lead1 & gave a /yle to ! _w :i* entirely broke away f all m$ival tradition4 #dhg ,rock's ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 i4 p4 #dji4 ,comp>e ,wilk9son's ,anci5t ,egyptians1 i4 p4 #ccb 7see fig4 #a72 & ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 taf4 i41 i4 p4 #acj1 fig4 #f4 ,bock does n give 8 au?ority = ! patt]n on ! ephod4 #dhh ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 i41 iii41 vi4 #dhi ,yates' ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 pp4 #bjc1 #cgf1 #ajc4 ,he quotes f ,claudian ! description ( a trabea1 said to h be5 wov5 by ! goddess ,roma h]self1 = ! consul ,/ili*o4 ,i give ?is z %[+ h[ =ms & patt]ns become sacr$ by _! be+ attribut$ to ! inspiration ( ! gods4 ,! "n ( ,/ili*o m>ks 8 tomb 9 ,sant' ,ambrogio's ,*ur* at ,milan1 on :i* is a curi\s m\ld+1 c>v$ ) alt]nate roses & my/ic crosses4 #dij ,clapton ,rolfe1 ,anci5t ,use ( ,liturgical ,col\rs4 #dia ,see ! ,book ( ,kells1 ,libr>y1 ,dubl92 also ,/4 ,cu?b]t's ,durham ,book1 ,briti% ,museum1 & ! ,celtic ,,mss4 9 ! ,lambe? ,palace ,libr>y4 #dib ,celtic & ,sc&9avian designs are *>act]iz$ by me&]+1 int]lac$1 & knott$ l9es1 :i* are describ$ & discuss$ 9 ! *apt] on patt]ns4 ,! =ms ( ! ,celtic /one crosses are v beautiful4 ,see ,l',atlas de l',ar*ologie du ,nord1 p> la ,socit ,royale des ,antiquaires du ,nord 7,cop5hag51 #aheg71 :]e ! metal rema9s are %[n by c>eful engrav+s2 also ,george ,/eph5's ,old ,nor!rn ,runic ,monum5ts4 #dic ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 p4 #abf1 quot+ ,ana/asius ,biblio!c>ius1 pp4 #aec1 #aef1 #ahi4 #did ,ibid4 p4 #ahi4 #die ,! in=mation "h collect$ proves t ^! sov]eign gifts to ! great basilicas 7 by no means ( co/ly mat]ials1 especially z comp>$ ) ! prec$+ spl5d\rs ( ,rome1 or ! /ill m a/\nd+ luxury ( ,alex&ria ?r\gh ! ,greek conque/s ( ! ,ea/]n nations4 ,to ^! rules ( economical decoration1 h[ev]1 we f9d occasionally exceptions4 ,we ga!r also f lat] li/s t ! embroid]ies ( ! ,papal ,see 7 cull$1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 f ,france1 ,spa91 ,g]many1 & ,engl&4 #dif ,see also ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 vol4 i4 pp4 #i1 #ah1 #ef1 #hf1 plate #b4 ,at a lat] p]iod ! lion motive is suppos$ to h repres5t$ a ,*ri/ian 9 ! ar5a1 & x c]ta9ly 9 "t 0 symbolical ( man /ruggl+ ) ! dom9ion ( s94 ,h[ev]1 ,bock consid]s ! design to h be5 orig9ally classical ,greek1 & x surviv$ to ! sev5? & eigh? c5turies1 & 0 reproduc$ z late z ! sixte5?4 #dig ,! ,code ( ,manu 9 ,india1 :i* #bejj ye>s ago regulat$ all ! crafts & rul$ _! decorations1 is /ill 9 full =ce1 & ,*9ese art 0 cry/alliz$ 9 ! reigns ( ! fir/ emp]ors ( ! ,hia dyna/y1 #baig ,b4,c4 #dih ,we _c b respect ! memory ( ,attila1 :o *eck$ ! spoliation ( ,rome by 8 troops4 #dii ,! collections ( ne$lework 9 ,g]many are v ri*4 ,! treasury ( ! ca!dral at ,halb]/adt1 ! ,m>kt-,kir*e ( ,brunswick1 ! sacri/y ( ! ,m>i5-,kir*e ( ,dantzic1 & t ( ! ,kal& ,bre?r5 at ,/rahlsund are especially quot$ by ,bock4 ,at ,qu$l9burg are ! tape/ries ( its fam\s abbess2 at ! ,pilgrim ,*ur* ( ,m>ie at ,zell are f9e rema9s ( /uffs & embroid]ies by ! ladies ( ! imp]ial h\se ( ,hapsburg1 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury2 at ! ,abbey ( ,gss 7ne> ,lieb51 ,/ei]m>k7 is to be se5 ! rem>kable ne$lework ( ! ,abbess ,kunigunda1 & 9 ! ca!dral treasury ( ,heidelb]g ! antip5dium ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 made = ! *ur* at ,tirna4 ,! museums ( ,b]l91 ,muni*1 & ,vi5na are v ri* 9 textiles4 #ejj ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 p4 #acc4 #eja ,hel5 ,lwyddawc4 ,see ,mab9ogion1 by ,lady ,c4 ,gue/1 pp4 #bgi-bhd4 ,?is beautiful /ory is told 9 ! language ( ! romance p]iod1 & yet has a c]ta9 ,celtic col\r+ 9 x1 :i* %[s its orig94 ,! ballad op5s ) a description ( ,hel5 wat*+ a game ( *ess1 clo!d 9 :ite & gold1 seat$ on a *air ( gold1 :5 ,max5tius f9ds h] 9 h] fa!r's palace4 #ejb ,see ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,lace1 p4 #d4 #ejc ,see *apt] on ,engli% embroid]y1 po/4 #ejd ,e>ly decorations ( ecclesia/ical dress are s ?or\ghly illu/rat$ by ! anci5t frescoes & mosaics 9 ,italy1 t we c =m an idea ( ! embroid]$ ve/m5ts ( ea* p]iod by /udy+ !m1 & ! e>ly illum9at$ books t are scatt]$ ov] ,europe4 ,dr4 ,bock gives au!ntic illu/rations z well z in=mation ab\t ! f9e/ ,cont95tal specim5s4 #eje ,= ! mosaics ( ,santa ,pud5ziana1 see ,woltmann & ,wo]mann1 i4 p4 #afg1 ,hi/ory ( ,pa9t+4 ,translat$ by ,sidney ,colv94 #ejf ,app5dix #d4 ,"l ,l9dsay's ,hi/ory ( ,ecclesia/ical ,art1 i4 p4 #acf4 ,^! gorge\s ve/m5ts are engrav$ by ,sulpiz ,boiss]e 9 8 ,kais] ,dalmatika 9 d] ,/4 ,pet]skir*e1 & f> bett] by ,dr4 ,rock1 9 8 spl5did "w on ! ,coronation ,robes ( ! ,g]man ,emp]ors4 #ejg ,x is s+ul> t we f9d ! />ry cross & ! swa/ika fill+ alt]nate squ>e spaces on ! mantle ( ,a*illes--play+ at dice ) ,ajax--on a celebrat$ ,greek vase 9 ! ,etruscan ,museum at ! ,vatican4 ,i h ref]r$ to ?is design else:]e4 7,plate #bf47 #ejh ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 liii4 #eji ,?is date is assign$ to x by ,monsignor ,clif=d4 #eaj ,k9dly suppli$ to me by ! ,fa!r ,sup]ior ( ,san ,clem5te 9 ,rome4 #eaa ,9 ! ca!dral ( ,aix1 ,switz]l&4 ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 ii4 #eab ,"o ( ^! mitres has1 x is said1 be5 br\ght to ,engl&4 #eac ,bock1 ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 ii4 taf4 xii4 ,?is is dy$ 9 ,tyrian purple 7rosy r$71 & is simply ! cross1 repres5t+ ! tree ) twelve leaves1 = ! heal+ ( ! nations4 #ead ,bock1 ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 iii4 pp4 #aeg-afj4 #eae ,bock1 ibid41 p4 #aeh1 quotes ! ,jesuit ,erasmus ,frhli*1 7#aged74 #eaf ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 iv4 pp4 #afe1 #aff4 ,"o ( ?ree co/ly g>m5ts4 #eag ,modifications ( ! :eel patt]n 7:eel & plate74 ,( ^! works ( ! t5? & elev5? c5turies ! f9e ,roman lett]+ 9 ! bord]s is a m>k+ *>act]i/ic4 #eah ,see ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 p4 #bad4 #eai ,!re 0 no guild ( embroid]]s 9 ,engl& t we "k ( till t incorporat$ 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,see *apt] on ,engli% embroid]y4 #ebj ,bock1 i4 #bad1 says t ! spl5did /uffs & embroid]ies 7 entirely consecrat$ to ! use ( ! ,*ur*1 till ! luxuri\s arts invad$ ,european dome/ic life f ! sev5? to ! twelf? c5tury4 #eba ,see ! cross on ! ,rheims cope 7plate #fc74 #ebb ,!re is no d\bt x 0 only us$ = *ur* "w4 #ebc ,at ,aa*51 9 ,switz]l&1 !re is a v rem>kable pluvial ( "o k9d ( opus ,anglicanum1 :i* has be5 already allud$ to4 ,! bord]1 ( spl5did gold embroid]y1 has ! patt]n complet$ 9 f9e fl[]s ( jewell]s' "w4 7,see ,bock1 ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 ii4 p4 #big1 taf4 xli4-xliv47 ,rock1 ,textile ,fabrics1 ,introduction1 p4 xxxi1 cites f ,mon4 ,angl4 7ii4 #bbb71 ! ve/m5ts giv5 to ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey by ,m>g>et1 ,du*ess ( ,cl>5ce1 ,a4,d4 #adbi1 z be+ rem>kable = pure gold 9 its texture & ! spl5d\r ( ! jewels & preci\s /ones set into x1 z well z = ! exquisite beauty ( its embroid]ies4 ,^! are "s ( ! *>act]i/ics ( ! opus ,anglicanum4 #ebd ,app5dix #f4 #ebe ,mrs4 ,bayman1 ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework4 #ebf ,if x is true t 9 ! days ( ! ,greeks & ,romans ! art ( acupictura or ne$le-pa9t+ copi$ pictorial art1 s likewise 9 ! ,egyptian e>ly times1 pa9t$ l95s imitat$ embroid]ies4 ,?is we le>n by specim5s f ! tombs4 ,pa9t$ hang+s & embroid]ies appe> to h be5 equally us$ = processional decorations4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages pa9t$ hang+s imitat$ embroid]ies & wov5 hang+s1 & 7 consid]$ z legitimate art4 #ebg ,see ,bock1 vol4 i4 p4 #aj4 #ebh ,exhibit$ 9 ! ,esposizione ,romana 9 #ahfi1 9 ! cloi/]s ( ,santa ,m>ia degli ,angeli4 #ebi ,see ,woltmann & ,wo]mann1 :o quote evid5ce z to works 9 pa9t$ glass z e>ly z ! n9? & t5? c5turies 9 ,france & ,g]many 7,hi/ory ( ,pa9t+1 vol4 i4 pp4 #caf-cci74 ,!y rem>k t ! "* ( pa9t$ glass is ne>ly ak9 to textile decoration1 t x is ess5tially flat & unpictorial4 ,& d\btless !re is an analogy betwe5 ! two1 b r sugge/+ pat*work or cut "w ?an legitimate embroid]y4 #ecj ,vas>i1 ed4 ,monce1 taf4 v4 p4 #aja4 #eca ,see plate #fi1 :i* is a f9e alt>-frontal ( ! plt]esque ,spani%4 #ecb ,! dress ( ! ,virg9 del ,sagr>io at ,tol$o1 embroid]$ ) pe>ls1 & ! *asuble ( ,val5cia1 work$ ) corals1 %[ h[ pr(usely ^! co/ly mat]ials 7 employ$4 #ecc ,see ,! ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,spa91 pp4 #bej-bfd1 by ,don ,juan ,f4 ,riano1 & catalogues ( ,loan ,exhibition by him = ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum s]ies1 #ahha4 ,! works ( ,spani% ,que5s & ,infantas are to be se5 at ! ,ato*a1 ! *ur* ( ! ,virg9 del ,pil> at ,madrid4 #ecd ,!re are mo/ int]e/+ examples ( ,scriptural subjects 9 ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 x4 pp4 #bjg1 #bjh2 taf4 xi4 pp4 #bci-bgh4 ,^! are ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies2 & we h "s good fifte5? c5tury bead-"w 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 #ece ,! spl5did embroid]ies f ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 sold to ,spani% m]*ants at ! ,re=mation1 n[ at ,val5cia1 & ! cope 9 ! ,museum at ,madrid1 are in/ances ( ^! exportations4 ,! ,syon cope also 0 return$ to ,engl&1 aft] its long w&]+s1 ab\t sixty ye>s ago4 ,i give its hi/ory by ,dr4 ,rock 9 ! ,app5dix #f4 #ecf ,= examples ( ?is ornate & graceful1 b frivol\s /yle1 we may rememb] ! mosaic alt> frontals ?r\gh\t ! basilica ( ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome4 #ecg ,see ,dr4 ,rock's ,catalogue ( ,textile ,fabrics1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ,introduction1 p4 cxxxvi4 #ech ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 taf4 vi41 vii41 pp4 #che-cib4 ,! emblematic mean+s ( /ones is con/antly allud$ to 9 ! ,old ,te/am5t4 ,_! symbolism has1 !re=e1 a high au?ority & mo/ anci5t desc5t4 ,9 ! ,a%molean ,museum at ,ox=d is an illum9at$ copy ( ,philip de ,?an's ,be/i>ium1 compos$ = ,adelais1 second wife ( ,h5ry ,i4 #eci ,cyclopdia ( ,bible ,lit]ature1 vol4 vii4 p4 #dgg4 #edj ,see ,clapton ,rolfe1 ,! ,anci5t ,use ( ,liturgical ,col\rs4 7,p>k]1 #ahgi47 #eda ,see ,indian ,arts1 by ,sir ,g4 ,birdwood1 i4 p4 #ig4 ,he says ?is ,illu/ration =m is ! sign ( ! ,buddhi/ or ,ja9is1 & t ! ,illu/ration fire-/ick =m 0 t ( ! ,sakti race 9 ,india4 #edb ,see *apt] on patt]ns1 p4 #ajc-d1 ante4 #edc ,revelations *ap4 xxii4 v4 #b4 #edd ,9 m$ival times ! cross 9 a circle 0 sometimes call$ ! clavus ,illu/ration4 ,x 0 ! same z an ,egyptian sign1 mean+ l& 7plate #be74 ,donelly fancifully claims ! sign z be+ t ( ! g>d5 ( ,ed51 & ( ! f\r riv]s fl[+ f x 7see ,atlantis74 #ede ,see plate #gj1 ,no4 #a4 ,9 ! upp] "p ( ! ,halb]/adt dipty*1 ,no4 #a1 ! g5s togata are sitt+ on ,olympus1 clo!d 9 su* purple g>m5ts embroid]$ ) ! *rysoclavus4 #edf ,i w\ld in/ance ! little *ur* ( ,/4 ,m>y1 built & adorn$ by ! late ,w4 ,e4 ,/reet1 at ,feldy1 9 ,surrey4 #edg ,! art ( illum9ation _h 9 g5]al kept a little 9 front ( t ( ! pa9t]1 & illum9ation & embroid]y w5t h& 9 h&4 #edh ,! f9e brocades ( velvet & gold1 ( :i* we f9d examples 9 ! c5tres ( palls1 & a notable "o 9 ! celebrat$ ,/oneyhur/ cope1 are /ill reproduc$ to ord] at ,lyons1 ,g5oa1 ,flor5ce1 & 9 ,spa94 ,! ,flor5t9e is di/+ui%$ by ! little loops ( gold ?read :i* p]vade x4 #edi ,9 ! ,engli% ritual gold 0 p]mitt$ :]ev] :ite 0 enjo9$4 ,?is %[s a true appreciation ( ! effect ( ! metal1 sep>at+ & isolat+ all col\rs1 & be+ ( none4 #eej ,! purple is n "o ( ! five my/ic col\rs nam$2 x is includ$ 9 blue1 & !re=e ! mo/ rituali/ic critic ne$ n object to x4 #eea ,"u ! ,c>lov+ians1 prie/ly g>m5ts 7 (t5 enri*$ ) spl5did fr+es1 trimm$ ) bells4 ,a ,bi%op ( ,elne1 :o di$ 9 #iae1 left to 8 *ur* a /ole embroid]$ ) gold & g>ni%$ ) bells4 ,s ri* 7 ! fr+es at t epo*1 t ,k+ ,rob]t1 pray+ "o day 9 ! *ur*1 became aw>e t :ile he 0 lo/ 9 m$itation a ?ief _h ripp$ (f "p ( ! fr+es ( 8 mantle4 ,he int]rupt$ 8 proce$+s by say+1 ,my fri5d1 suppose y cont5t y\rself ) :at y h tak51 & leave ! re/ = "s o!r memb] ( y\r guild4 ,see ,hi/oire du ,tissu ,anci51 ,union ,c5tral des ,arts ,dcoratifs4 ,= a fr+e ) bells1 see ! beautiful example 9 ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd] 7plates xli4 xlii4 xliii4 vol4 ii4 p4 #big71 already quot$4 #eeb ,resembl+ ! fr+e ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t's corporax1 ) its silv] bells4 #eec ,?is valuable collection ( textiles is s anci5t & !re=e s frail1 t x seems a pity to s5d portions ( x cont9ually travell+ ab\t ! c\ntry = loan exhibitions4 ,*ange ( climate--cold1 heat1 & damp--c>elessness 9 pack+ & unpack+--above all1 ! reckless exposure to floods ( sun%9e ev5 :5 !y are protect$ f du/ by glass1--all ^! endang] ! pres]vation ( :at c nev] be replac$1 & has only surviv$ till n[ because ( ! quiet & d>kness 9 :i* x has la9 = c5turies4 #eed ,george ,h]b]t1 ,! ,*ur*y>d ,por*1 v4 #ae4 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,engli% ,,embroid]y4 ,?r\gh ! prec$+ *apt]s ,i h tri$ to mod]ate my pr$om9ant int]e/ 9 our national s*ool ( ne$lework1 seek+ to place x 9 its j position alongside ( ! coeval ,cont95tal s*ools4 ,h[ev]1 ! m ,i h se5 ( specim5s at home & abroad1 ! m ,i h become conv9c$ ( ! great sup]iority ( our ne$lework 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,z in=mation ab\t our own art mu/ be valuable to u1 ,i give a %ort acc\nt ( ,engli% embroid]y4 ,9 ,engl& our art1 l our language1 is mix$4 ,our e>ly hi/ory is "o ( repeat$ conque/1 & we c only obs]ve :]e /yle has fl[$ 9 f outside1 or has =m$ itself by graft+ ^u ! /em full ( vitality already plant$ & gr[+4 ,x is int]e/+ to seek its root4 ,!re is e reason to believe1 f ! evid5ce ( ! animal rema9s ( ! ,neoli?ic ,age 7includ+ ^? ( %eep71 t !y came ) _! ma/]s f ! c5tral plateau ( ,asia4 ,! ov]lap ( ! ,asiatic civilizations ov] ! b>b>ism ( ,nor!rn ,europe %[s t ,assyria#eee z well z ,egypt 0 a highly organiz$ empire1 & ! ,m$it]ranean peoples f> advanc$ 9 ! arts ( life1 :ile ! ,neoli?ic man surviv$ & l+]$ 9 ,brita91 ,france1 & ,sc&9avia4 ,yet1 ev5 at t e>ly p]iod1 ! craft ( sp9n+ & ! use ( ! ne$le 7 practis$ by ! wom5 ( ,brita94#eef ,our fir/ glimpses ( art may h come to u by ,phnician trad]s1 t\*+ at ! ,scilly ,isl&s & !nce sail+ to ! coa/s ( ,cornwall & ,irel&4 ,f ,irel& we h curi\s relics z witnesses ( _! pres5ce--among/ o!rs1 jewell]y connect$ by1 or p5dant f1 ,tri*9opoly *a9s1 simil> to ^? dug out ( ,etruscan tombs1 & :i* 7 probably import$ into ,irel& z e>ly z ! six? c5tury ,b4,c4#eeg ,9 ! ,bronze ,age ! *iefs & ! ri* m5 wore l95 or wooll5 homespun4 ,fragm5ts ( ^! h be5 f\nd 9 ! ,scale ,h\se b>r[ at ,ryl/on1 9 ,york%ire4 ,dr4 ,rock says t an anci5t ,celtic b>r[ 0 op5$ n long ago 9 ,york%ire1 9 :i* ! body 0 wrapp$ 9 plait$ 7n wov57 wooll5 mat]ial4#eeh ,be=e ?is "t ! ,cymri 9 ,brita9 probably wore plait$ grass g>m5ts2 !y also sew$ toge!r ! sk9s ( animals ) bone ne$les4 ,dye+ & weav+ 7 well und]/ood 9 ,brita9 be=e ! adv5t ( ! ,romans4 ,hemp & flax1 h[ev]1 ?\gh native to ! soil1 7 n employ$ by ! e>ly ,britons4 ,l95 p]haps came to u fir/ ?r\gh ! ,phnicians1 & aft]w>ds ?r\gh ! ,celts1 & 0 naturaliz$ "h by ! ,romans4 ,&]son 7,scotl& 9 ,e>ly ,*ri/ian ,times7 gives a high place to ! =ms ( pagan art :i* prevail$ 9 ! ,briti% ,isles1 be=e ! ,roman civilization2 & diff]+ f & influ5c+ t :i* came f ,sc&9avia4 ,we mu/ c]ta9ly all[ t x 0 art1 & t x conta9$ no ,greek or o!r classical elem5t4 ,8 illu/rations expla9 & give great weight to 8 !ories4 ,cs> invad$ ,engl& =ty-five ye>s ,b4,c4#eei ,! ,romans gave u ,*ri/ianity & ! rudim5ts ( civilization1 b _! attempts to ,romanize u met ) little success4 ,probably !y import$ _! luxuries1 & remov$ all !y valu$ at ! "t ( _! exodus4 ,f !m we "k :at !y f\nd & :at !y left 9 ,brita94 ,boadicea1 ,que5 ( ! ,ic5i1 ! day ( h] defeat wore a t>tan dress 7polymita7 & an embroid]$ or fur mantle2 probably ! fur 0 inside1 & ! sk9s embroid]$ outside4 ,dion ,cassius1#efj :o describes ,boadicea's motley tunic1 says t ! bulk ( ! p wore :at 0 app>5tly a *equ]$ t>tan4 ,semp] says t ! e>ly tribes ( ,nor!rn ,europe1 l ! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indians ( ! pres5t "t1 embroid]$ _! fur wraps4 ,! ,emp]or ,honorius1 9 ! f\r? c5tury1 made x illegal = ,roman nobles to we> extravagantly-work$ fur robes2 p]haps ! report ( ,boadicea's dress _h set ! fa%ion 9 ,rome4 ,dur+ ! fir/ f\r c5turies ( our era1 all art 9 ,brita9 mu/ h come f our ,roman ma/]s2 & ow+ to _! neglect ( ! p !y conqu]$1 we b5efit$ little by _! civilization4 ,all t we "k ( _! decorative art 9 ,brita91 is t x 01 ) few exceptions1 *iefly ( small bronze /atues1 some:at crude & colonial1 z appe>s f ! rema9s ( _! ar*itecture1 sculpture1 mosaics1 & tombs4#efa ,( _! textiles we h no relics1 & h>dly "k ( any record$1 if we except ! works ( ! ,empress ,hel5a4 ,see p4 #caf1 ante4 ,we mu/ rememb] t1 z %e 0 a ,briti% pr9cess1 x is likely t %e _h le>nt h] art at home1 & !re=e t ! wom5 ( ,engl& 7 already embroid]]s z e>ly z ! beg9n+ ( ! f\r? c5tury4#efb ,on ! dep>ture ( ! ,romans1 *aos ensu$1 till ! ,britons1 :o _h call$ 9 ! ,saxons to help !m1 7 by !m driv5 into ,wales1 ,brittany1 & ,irel&1 :i* la/ !y ,*ri/ianiz$2 & m+l$ ! art ( ! ,g]mans & ,celts ) t ( ! ,danes & ,norsem5#efc2 all :i* may be trac$ 9 ! ,iri% rema9s to be se5 9 ! ,college ,museum at ,dubl9 & else:]e4 ,f ! "t t ,engl& became ,anglo-,saxon1 lit]ature1 law1 & art began to cry/allize2 & :51 "u ,egb]t1 "o k+dom 0 =m$ out ( ! hept>*y1 ord] & a s5se ( beauty 7 9 ! c\rse ( developm5t4 ,!n came ! invasion ( ! ,danes 7n9? c5tury71 :o robb$1 de/roy$1 & arre/$ all arti/ic improvem5t1 till ,alfr$ got rid ( !m = a "t4 ,e>ly 9 ! sev5? c5tury ! wom5 ( ,engl& _h atta9$ great p]fection 9 ne$lework4 ,?is appe>s f a passage 9 a poem by ,adhelme1 ,bi%op ( ,%]borne4 ,he speaks ( _! %uttles1 fill$ n ) purple only1 b ) v>i\s col\rs1 mov$ "h & !re among ! ?ick spread+ ?reads4#efd ,he _h himself a robe ( a mo/ delicate ?read ( purple1 adorn$ ) black circles & peacocks4 ,?is may or may n h be5 wov5 9 ,engl&1 b at t "t weav+1 z well z ne$lework1 0 ! delight & occupation ( ! ladies ( ! c\rt & ( ! cloi/]$ nuns4#efe ,! ?ralls 7slaves or s]fs7 7 employ$ 9 weav+ 9 ! h\ses ( ! nobles1 probably !y embroid]$ also4 ,mrs4 ,lawr5ce sees reason to believe t 9 ! sev5? c5tury1 silk & f9e l95 7 ! mat]ials = alt> decorations1 ve/m5ts1 & dress2 :]eas ! hang+s ( ! h\se 7 ( co>se canvas adorn$ ) embroid]y 9 ?ick wor/$4#eff ,%e says ! t]m broid]ie 0 res]v$ = ! delicate works on f9e gr\nds1 9 silk & gold & silv] ?read1 & enri*m5ts 9 metal "w4 ,preci\s /ones & pe>ls _h already be5 introduc$ into ! ,byzant9e & ,romanesque designs import$ f ,greece & ,rome4 ,! ,engli% ,dom9ican ,fri>1 ,?4 ,/ubbs1 writ+ 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 describes 9 8 notice ( ,/4 ,oswald a *asuble ( ,anglo-,saxon "w1 :i* exactly resembles t ( ,aix4#efg ,?is is spl5didly engrav$ 9 ,von ,bock's ,kle9odi5 among/ ! coronation robes ( ! ,emp]ors ( ,g]many1 & is adorn$ ) ! ri*e/ gold5 orphreys1 imitat+ jewell]s' "w1 enri*$ ) pe>ls & silv] bells4 ,!re is an ,icel&ic ,saga ( ! ?irte5? c5tury :i* relates ! hi/ory ( ,?orgunna1 a woman f ! ,hebrides1 :o 0 tak5 to ,icel& on ! fir/ settlem5t ( ! c\ntry by ,norway1 ,a4,d4 #ajjj4 ,%e employ$ wit*]y 9 h] ne$lework1 & h] embroid]$ hang+s 7 covet$ by1 & prov$ fatal to1 _m p]sons aft] h] dea?1 till "o ( h] inh]itors burn$ !m4#efh ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ga4 ,"o ( ! ends ( ! ,/ole ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t at ,durham1 :i* toge!r be> ! inscription1 ,aelfl$ fi]i precepit pio ,episcopo ,fride/ano4 ,engli% ecclesia/ical art did n necess>ily keep to ,*ri/ian subjects2 = x is record$ t ,k+ ,wiglaf1 ( ,m]cia1 gave to ,croyl& ,abbey 8 spl5did coronation mantle & velum2 & t ! latt] 0 embroid]$ ) sc5es f ! siege ( ,troy4#efi ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gb4 ,/4 ,john4 ,/4 ,rog]4 ,durham ,embroid]ies1 t5? c5tury4 ,x 0 probably on acc\nt ( su* d]elictions f or?odox subjects ( design t 9 ! eigh? c5tury ! ,c\ncil ( ,clove%oe admoni%$ ! conv5ts = _! frivol\s embroid]ies4#egj ,9 ! eigh? c5tury our ,engli% "w 9 illum9ations & embroid]ies 0 f9] ?an t ( any ,cont95tal s*ool2 & !re=e1 9 view ( ! great advance ( ^! second>y arts1 we may claim t we 7 !n no long] out] b>b>ians1 ?\gh our only ackn[l$g$ sup]iority ov] ,cont95tal arti/s 0 9 ! workrooms ( our wom5 & ! cells ( our religi\s h\ses4 ,dur+ ! t]rible incursions ( ! ,danes1 & ! _m tr\bles t accru$ f ^! b>b>\s & idolatr\s invad]s1 ! conv5ts & mona/]ies1 especially ^? ( ! ord] ( ,/4 ,b5$ict1 kept ! sacr$ flame ( art burn+4#ega ,bo? monks & nuns wrote1 illum9at$1 pa9t$1 & embroid]$4 ,!y evid5tly cont9u$ _! relations ) =eign art1 = x is difficult to say at :at p]iod ! ,norman /yle began to be introduc$ into ,engl&4 ,x 0 ! outcome ( ! ,romanesque1 & ( ?is1 diff]5t phases mu/ h come to u ?r\gh ! ,danes & ! ,saxons4 ,i _c b dwell on ! e>ly life & spr+tide ( our ,anglican ,*ri/ian art1 :i* 9 _m po9ts prec$$ & surpass$ t ( o!r nor!rn nations1 z we arose f t p]iod commonly call$ ! ,d>k ,ages4 ,ours 0 a gradual developm5t1 add+ to itself f out] s\rces new /r5g? & grace4 ,! bett] p]fection ( details & patt]ns 0 succe$$ by ,anglo-,saxon +5uity & ref9em5t 9 draw+ ! human figure4 ,! art1 :i* 0 native to ,engl&1 may be judg$ by ! r>e examples t we possess1 & ( :i* we may well be pr\d2 ?\gh we mu/ rememb] ) %ame h[ mu* 0 de/roy$ at ! ,re=mation4 ,en\gh h[ev]1 rema9s to prove t our ,engli% art ( illum9ation ( ! n9?1 t5? & elev5? c5turies 0 v beautiful1 & we are n surpris$ !re=e to f9d 9 ! embroid]ies ( t p]iod grace & arti/ic feel+4 ,! /ole & maniple ( ! ,durham ca!dral libr>y1 :i* be> ! inscription ,aelfl$ fi]i precepit pio ,episcopo ,fride/ano1 are ( ! mo/ p]fect /yle ( ,anglo-,saxon design2 & ! /it*+ ( ! silk embroid]y & ( ! gold gr\nd+ are ( ! utmo/ p]fection ( ne$lework art 7plates #ga1 #gb74 ,! hi/ory ( ?is embroid]y is c>efully elucidat$ by ,dr4 ,ra9e 9 8 ,sa9t ,cu?b]t4 ,he says t ,fri!/an 0 consecrat$ bi%op 9 #ije1 by comm& ( ,edw>d ! ,eld]1 son ( ,alfr$ ! ,great4 ,aelfl$ 0 ,edw>d ! ,second's que54 ,%e ord]$ & gave an embroid]$ /ole & maniple to ,fri!/an4 ,aft] h] dea?1 & t ( ,edw>d1 & ( ! ,bi%op ( ,w9*e/]1 ,a!l/an1 !n k+1 made a progress to ! nor?1 & visit+ ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 at ,*e/]-le-,/reet1 he be/[$ on x _m ri* gifts1 :i* are solemnly enum]at$ 9 ! ,,mss4 ,cott4 ,brit4 ,mus4 ,claud4 ,d4 iv4 fol4 #ba-f4 ,among ^! are "o /ole1 ) a maniple2 "o girdle1 & two bracelets ( gold4 ,t ! /ole & maniple are ^? work$ = ,fri!/an by ! comm& ( 8 "m-9-law1 ,aelfl$1 may fairly be said to be prov$4 ,^! embroid]ies1 work$ ) h] "n & ! record ( h] act1 7 tak5 f ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t 9 #ahbg4egb ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gc4 ,/4 ,dun/an's ,portrait ( himself 9 adoration4 ,f 8 ,missal 9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y1 ,ox=d4 ,ano!r & e>li] ,aelfl$ 0 ! wid[ ( ,bri?nod1 a fam\s ,nor?umbrian *iefta94 ,%e gave to ! ca!dral ( ,ely1 :]e 8 headless body lay buri$1 a l>ge clo?1 or hang+1 on :i* %e _h embroid]$ ! h]oic de$s ( h] husb&4 ,%e 0 ! ance/ress ( a race ( embroid]]s1 & _! p$igree w be f\nd 9 ! ,app5dix4#egc ,at ?is "t a lady ( ! ,que5 ( ,scotl& 0 fam$ = h] p]fect skill 9 ne$lework1 & ! f\r daught]s ( ,edw>d ! ,eld] 7 likewise celebrat$ embroid]]s4 ,/4 ,dun/an1 ,ar*bi%op ( ,cant]bury1 is said to h design$ ne$lework = a noble & pi\s lady1 ,a$elwyrme1 to execute 9 gold ?read1 ,a4,d4 #ibd4egd ,he prep>$ & pa9t$ a draw+1 & direct$ h] "w4#ege ,i "h give ! portrait ( our celebrat$ e>ly design] f ! ,,ms4 9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y at ,ox=d1 said to be by 8 own h&1 & :i* repres5ts him kneel+ at ! feet ( ! ,savi\r 7plate #gc74 ,%ortly be=e ! ,norman conque/1 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! elev5? c5tury1 we h notices ( sundry o!r v rem>kable pieces ( "w4 ,! ,dani% ,que5 ,emma1 daught] ( ,ri*>d1 ,duke ( ,norm&y1 :5 %e 0 wife to ,e!lr$ ! ,unready1 & aga9 dur+ h] second m>riage to ,canute1 gave ! f9e/ embroid]ies to v>i\s abbeys & mona/]ies4 ,canute1 be+ !n a ,*ri/ian1 jo9$ h] 9 ^! spl5did votive (f]+s4 ,to ,romsey & ,croyl& !y gave alt>-clo?s :i* _h be5 embroid]$ by 8 fir/ que51 ,aelgi?a1#egf & ve/m5ts cov]$ ) gold5 eagles4 ,%e work$ "o alt>-clo? on %ot blood-r$ & gre5 silk1#egg ) gold5 orphreys at ! side & across ! top4 ,:5 "o consid]s :at ! life ( poor ,que5 ,emma 01 "o hopes t ,art ! ,consol] came to h] 9 ! =m ( h] fav\rite craft1 & t %e did f9d consolation 9 x4 ,croyl& ,abbey seems to h be5 mo/ spl5didly end[$ by ! ,anglo-,saxon mon>*s4 ,!re is cont9ual m5tion 9 ! records ( ^? times ( (f]+s ( embroid]ies & o!r ,*ur* app>els4 ,que5 ,edi?a1 ! wife ( ! ,confessor1 disp5s$ beautiful works f h] own workrooms1 & h]self embroid]$ ,k+ ,edw>d's coronation mantle4 ,:5 9 ! elev5? c5tury ! ,normans became our ma/]s1 !y f\nd ca!drals1 *ur*es1 & palaces :i* almo/ vi$ ) _! own2 likewise sculptures1 illum9at$ books1 embroid]$ hang+s1 & ve/m5ts ( surpass+ beauty4 ,william ( ,poit\1 ,*apla9 to ,william ! ,conqu]or1#egh relates t ! ,normans 7 z mu* /ruck on ! ,conqu]or's return into ,norm&y ) ! spl5did embroid]$ g>m5ts ( ! ,saxon nobles1 z ) ! beauty ( ! ,saxon y\?4 ,que5 ,matilda1 :o evid5tly appreciat$ ,anglo-,saxon "w1 left 9 h] w1 to ! ,abbey ( ! ,holy ,tr9ity1 ,my tunic work$ by ,ald]et's wife1 & ! mantle :i* is 9 my *amb]1 to make a cope4 ,( my two gold5 girdles1 ,i give ! "o :i* is adorn$ ) emblems to susp5d ! lamp be=e ! great alt>4 ,i come n[ to ! e>lie/ l>ge "w rema9+ to u ( ! p]iod--! ,bayeux tape/ry4 ,we mu/ claim x z ,engli%1 bo? on acc\nt ( ! reput$ work]1 & ! hi/ory x commemorates1 ?\gh ! *ildi% /yle ( :i* x is a type is inde$ inf]ior 9 e way to ! beautiful specim5s :i* h be5 rescu$ f tombs 9 ,durham1 ,worce/]1 & else:]e4 ,!y seem h>dly to belong to ! same p]iod1 s weak are ! designs & ! composition ( ! gr\ps4 ,?\gh ,mr4 ,r$e ,f[ke gives ! ,abb de la ,rue's d\bts z to ! accept$ p]iod ( ! ,bayeux tape/ry1 :i* he assigns to ! ,empress ,matilda1 he yet leans to o!r equally good au?orities :o consid] ! "w z be+ coeval ) ! ev5ts x records4#egi ,mr4 ,coll+wood ,bruce is ( ! same op9ion1 & = ?is reason--! furniture1 build+s1 c41 are all ( ! elev5? c5tury1 & our ance/ors 7 no ar*ologi/s1 & always drew :at !y saw ar\nd !m4 ,mr4 ,bruce fancies ! design to be ,italian1 because ( ! en]getic action ( ! figures2 ?is seems h>dly ju/ifi$ :5 we look at ! simple pov]ty ( ! /yle4 ,miss ,a4 ,/rickl& sugge/s t ! arti/ 0 p]haps ,turold ! ,dw>f1 :o has cunn+ly introduc$ 8 effigy & "n4 ,t ! tape/ry is n f\nd 9 any catalogue be=e #acfi1 is only a piece ( presumptive evid5ce aga9/ ! e>li] date1 & _c compete ) ! int]nal evid5ce 9 its fav\r4 ,on #bbg feet ( canvas-l951 tw5ty in*es wide1 are del9eat$ ! ev5ts ( ,engli% hi/ory f ! "t ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor to ! l&+ ( ! ,conqu]or at ,ha/+s4 ,! ,bayeux tape/ry is work$ 9 wor/$ on l952 ! design is p]fectly flat & %ad[less4 ,! outl9es are firmly drawn ) cords on ?ickly set /em-/it*es4 ,! surfaces are laid 9 flat /it*4 ,?\gh co>sely work$1 !re is a c]ta9 mae/ria 9 ! execution4 ,! ^w orphrey 7,engli% = auriphrigium or ,phrygian gold embroid]y7 is fir/ f\nd 9 ,domesday ,book1 :]e ,alvide ! maid5 receives f ,godric ! ,%]iff1 = h] life1 half a hide ( l&1 ,if %e might tea* 8 daught]s to make orphreys4#ehj ,9 ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury1 ,*ri/9a1 ,abbess ( ,m>kgate1 work$ a pair ( s&als & ?ree mitres ( surpass+ beauty1 s5t ?r\gh ! ,abbot ( ,/4 ,alban's to ,pope ,adrian ,,iv41 :o d\btless valu$ !m ! m because !y came f 8 native ,engl&4#eha ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gd4 ,engli% ,patt]ns1 *iefly f ,/rutt's ,royal & ,ecclesia/ical ,antiquities ( ,engl&4 #a4 #ajff4 #b4 #ajib4 #c4 #aajj4 #d4 #aaga4 #e4 #aaga4 #f4 #aahi4 #g4 #aahi4 #h4 #acfa4 #i1 #aj4 #acgg4 #aa4 #acii4 #ab4 #adbb4 #ac4 #adbf4 #ad4 #addj4 #ae4 #adde4 #af4 #adaf4 #ag4 #adde4 #ah4 #adgg4 #ai4 #aecj4 #bj4 #abgb4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ge4 #a4 ,panel ( a ,scre5 9 ,hornby ,*ur*4 ,pa9t$ fifte5? c5tury4 #b4 ,dress patt]n f pa9t$ glass4 ,/4 ,mi*ael's ,*ur*1 ,york4 ,f\rte5? c5tury4 #c4 ,a portion ( ! mat]ial ( ! ,t[neley ,copes4 ,fifte5? c5tury4 ,( ! twelf? c5tury 7#aagj7 we h ! robes & mitres ( ,?omas ,becket at ,s5s2 & ano!r mitre ( ! p]iod1 :ite & gold1 is 9 ! museum at ,muni*1 ) 8 m>tyrdom embroid]$ on "o side1 & t ( ,/4 ,/eph5 on ! o!r4 ,! gold ne$lework is s p]fect t x resembles weav+4 ,x is record$ t a spl5did dress 0 embroid]$ 9 ,london = ,el9or ( ,aquita9e1 :i* co/ #hj1 equal to #adjj ( ! value ( to-day4#ehb ,rock 7,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 ii4 p4 #bgi7 truly says t x is %[n by pl5tiful records & writt5 docum5ts1 f ! days ( ,/4 ,osmond to ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 t ! mat]ials employ$ 9 ,engli% ecclesia/ical embroid]ies 7 ! be/ t c\ld be f\nd 9 our own c\ntry or 9 f>-(f l&s1 & ! art be/[$ on !m 0 ! be/ we c\ld le>n & give4 ,v>i\s fabrics came f ,byzant9e or ,s>ac5ic looms1 :i* are describ$ z damask$1 ray$1 m>bl$1 c4 ,! few surviv+ specim5s fully ju/ify ! admiration be/[$ on !m ?r\gh\t ,*ri/5dom4 ,mat!w ,p>is1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 says t ,innoc5t ,,iii4 7#abdf71 see+ c]ta9 copes & inful ) desirable orphreys1 0 in=m$ !y 7 ,engli% "w4 ,he exclaim$1 ,surely ,engl& is a g>d5 ( delight6 ,9 soo? ?is is a well inexhau/ible6 ,& :]e !re is s mu* abundance1 f !nce mu* may be extract$6#ehc ,f ! ,conque/ to ! ,re=mation ! catalogues ( ,*ur* ve/m5ts :i* are to be f\nd 9 ! libr>ies ( ,york1 ,l9coln1 & ,pet]bor\gh1 %[ ! luxury ( ecclesia/ical decoration4 ,9 ,l9coln alone !re 7 upw>ds ( #fjj ve/m5ts wr\ght ) div]s k9ds ( ne$lework1 jewell]y1 & gold1 ^u ,indian baudi*yn1 samite1 t>t>91 velvet1 & silk4 ,ev5 9 read+ ! dry descriptions ( a common inv5tory1 we are amaz$ by ! li/s ( orphreys ( goodly ne$lework1 copes embroid]$ ) armorial be>+s1 & knights j\/+1 lions fight+1 & amices b>r$ ) ame?y/s & pe>ls1 c4 c4 ,! few ,i h nam$ w give an idea ( ! accumulation ( ri*es 9 ! *ur*es1 & ! gorge\sness ( ,engli% embroid]ies4#ehd ,i h collect$ f ,/rutt's ,illu/rations#ehe & o!r s\rces a numb] ( patt]ns = dome/ic hang+s1 copi$ f ,,mss4 ( contempor>y dates1 cov]+ ab\t #djj ye>s1 f ! "t ( ,h>old to ,edw>d ,,iv4 ,! hang+s may h be5 m effective ?an appe>s at fir/ sight1 if ! mat]ials 7 ri* & enliv5$ ) gold4 ,i give two textile designs :i* 9 _! /yle are peculi>ly ,engli% 7plates #gd1 #ge74 ,n[ we ent] on ! age ( romance & *ivalry1 :5 all dome/ic decorations began to assume great] ref9em5t4 ,c>pets f ! ,ea/ cov]$ ! ru%es /rewn on ! floors1 & spl5did t5ts 7 br\ght home by crusad+ knights2 & ! decorative arts ( nor!rn ,europe 7 once m p]meat$ ) ,ori5tal ta/e & design4 ,we "k t 9 ! s-call$ days ( *ivalry1 i4e4 f ! ,conque/ till ! beg9n+ ( ,h5ry ,,viii4's reign1 ne$lework 0 ! occupation ( ! wom5 left 9 _! ca/les1 :ile ! m5 7 away fight+ = ! cross1 = ! k+1 = _! lib]ties1 or = booty4 ,?is p]iod includ$ ! ,crusades1 ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 w>s ) ,france1 & rebellions at home2 & yet !re 0 a ta/e = art1 luxury1 & %[ spread+ ev]y:]e4#ehf ,! wom5 7 expect$ to provide1 ) _! looms & _! ne$les1 ! h]aldic surcoats1 ! sc>ves & bann]s1 & ! mantles = /ate occasions4#ehg ,!y also work$ ! hang+s = ! hall & *apel1 & adorn$ ! alt>s & ! prie/s' ve/m5ts4 ,alas6 "t1 ta/e1 & ! mo? h %>$ 9 ! de/ruction ( ^! gauds4 ,! ta/e = ! b>oc is a new acquisition2 no "o c>$ = :at 0 old1 m]ely because x 0 old4 ,! ri* replac$ _! hang+s & _! clo!s :5 !y became %abby2 ! poor let !m g to pieces1 & probably burn$ ! old /uff & ! embroid]ies = ! sake ( ! gold ?read1 :i* 0 ( intr9sic value4 ,b bo? 9 prose & poetry we read descriptions ( beautiful works 9 ! loom1 or on ! frame1 execut$ by fair ladies = ! gallant knights ^: lives & pr[ess ^! poems h pres]v$ to u4 ,i w give "o quotation f t ( ,em>e1 9 ,ritson's collection3 ,h] mantle 0 wr\ghte by a faire ,paynim1 ! ,am>ayle's daught]4 ,?is occupi$ h] sev5 long ye>s4 ,9 ea* corn] is depict$ a pair ( lov]s1 ,sir ,tri/ram & ,iseult--,sir ,amadis & ,ydo9e1 c41 c4 ,^! pictures 7 adorn$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,! figures 7 portray$-- ,) /ons bright & pure1 ,) c>buncle & sapphire1 ,kalsdonys & onyx cl]e1 ,sette 9 golde newe2 ,diamondes & rubies1 ,& o!r /ones ( my*el pryse4 ,! lady :o owns ?is mantle is h]self great 9 workes ( brod]ie4 ,f ! ,conque/ to ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 ,engl& may claim to h gradually acquir$ a high] place 9 art4 ,our ar*itecture1 sculpture1 manuscripts1 & pa9t+s 7 n surpass$ on ! ,cont95t3 witness ,que5 ,eleanor's crosses1 & h] tomb 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey2 & ! portrait ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 surr\nd$ by sa9ts & angels1 at ,wilton ,h\se1#ehh a picture :i*1 prec$+ ,fra ,beato ,angelico's works by at lea/ a qu>t] ( a c5tury1 yet sugge/s 8 /yle1 ref9$ draw+1 & t5d] col\r+4 ,all :o saw ! frescoes f\nd 9 ! ,*apel at ,eton ,college :5 x 0 re/or$1 w rememb] _! extreme beauty1 & regret t !y 7 effac$1 in/ead ( be+ pres]v$ & re/or$4 ,!y 7 a lesson 9 :at ,engli% art 0 9 ! end ( ! ?irte5?1 dur+ ! f\rte5?1 & into ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5turies4 ,dur+ ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 :5 a duke ( ! blood-royal is said to h begg$ 8 bread 9 ! /reets ( ! ri* ,flemi% t[ns1 ladies ( rank1 m =tunate1 7 able to e>n !irs by ! "w ( _! ne$le4#ehi ,! monum5ts ( ! elev5? & twelf?1 ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 are our be/ au?orities = ! embroid]ies !n worn4 ,! surcoat ( ! ,black ,pr9ce 9 ,cant]bury ,ca!dral is a notewor?y example4 ,! sculptur$ effigy on ! tomb ov] :i* x is susp5d$ is absolutely clo!d 9 ! same surcoat1 ) ! same accid5ts ( embroid]y1 z if x _h be5 modell$ f x4 ,9 ,worce/]1 :5 ! ar*ologi/s op5$ ,k+ ,john's tomb 9 #agig1 !y f\nd him 9 ! same dress & attitude z t portray$ on ! recumb5t /atue4#eij ,dress 0 !n extravagantly exp5sive1 & embroid]$ dresses 7 worn ) bord]s ri*ly set ) preci\s /ones & pe>ls4 ,! ,librate ,roll ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 gives u a li/ ( embroid]]s' names3 ,ala9 de ,bas+e1 ,adam de ,bak]yne1 ,john de ,colonia1 c42 & 9 ! w>drobe accompts ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 ,william ,san/\ne & ,rob]t de ,a%m$e are call$ ! ,br\datores ,dom9i ,regis4 ,^! may h be5 ! arti/s to :om ! ord]s 7 deliv]$1 = 9 ! ,librate ,roll ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 we f9d ,adam de ,bask]yne receiv+ #fs4 #h;d4 = a clo? ( silk1 & fr+e1 pur*as$ by our comm&s to embroid] a c]ta9 *asuble :i* ,mabilia ( ,/4 ,edmunds made = u4 ,!re 7 c]ta9ly !n purveyors & ma/]s ( ! craft4 ,/eph5 ,vign]1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 is s w>mly comm5d$ by ! ,duke ( ,b]ri & ,auv]gne to ,edw>d ,,iii41 t ,ri*>d ,,ii4 appo9t$ him 8 *ief embroid]]1 & ,h5ry ,,iv4 p5sion$ him = 8 skilful s]vices4 ,john ,g>l&1 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 is a good au?ority = ! use by our wom5 ( small h&-looms4 ,9 ^! !y wove1 9 flax or silk 7(t5 mix$ ) gold71 ! c+ul or blode-b5des s (t5 m5tion$1 suppos$ to be gifts betwe5 fri5ds = b9d+ ! arm1 :5 blood-lett+ 0 s mu* 9 fa%ion t ! op]ation 0 all[$ to assume a c]ta9 air ( coquetry4 ,b ! idea sugge/s itself t ?is 0 (t5] ! gift ( ! fair weav] to h] fav\r$ lov]1 to fold r\nd 8 arm z a sc>f 9 battle or t\rney1 to be ready 9 case x 0 ne$$ = b9d+ up a w\nd1 & _h possibly s]v$ z a snood to b9d h] own fair hair4 ,!re is an acc\nt ( a specim5 ( ?is k9d ( weav+ by ,m4 ,lopold ,delisle4#eia ,he describes ! atta*m5t ( a seal to a grant f ,ri*>d ,cur de ,lion to ,ri*>d ,hommet & ,gille 8 wife1 pres]v$ 9 ! ar*ives ( ! ,abbey ( ,aunai1 9 ! dep>tm5t ( ,calvados4 ,he consid]s x to be ei!r ,fr5* or ,engli%1 & says x 0 a lac d'am\r1 or tie ( love1 cut up to s]ve its pres5t purpose4 ,x is wov5 ) an inscription 9 :ite on a gr\nd ( gre51 back$ ) pale blue1 & ! mat]ial is silk4 ,! wov5 leg5d is ?us translat$ f ! old ,fr5*--,let him p]i% :o w\ld "p u4 ,illu/ration3 ,opus ,anglicanum1 ,,xiii4 ,c5tury ,briti% ,museum ,! t]m opus ,anglicanum is fir/ record$ 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & is suppos$ simply to mean ,engli% "w4 ,b !re is also good au?ority = its hav+ be5 appli$1 on ! ,cont95t especially1 to a p>ticul> /yle ( /it*]y1 ( :i* ! ,syon cope 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum is ! be/ pres]v$ great example kn[n4 ,its peculi>ity consi/s 9 its f9e split-/it* be+ m\ld$ s z to give ! effect ( a bas-relief2 & ?is appe>s to h be5 g5]ally res]v$ = ! m$allions repres5t+ sacr$ subjects1 & especially employ$ 9 modell+ ! faces & ! nude p>ts ( ! figures del9eat$4 ,! effect ( ?is "w has (t5 be5 de/roy$1 z "t has fray$ & discol\r$ ! p>ts t are rais$1 exhibit+ ! canvas gr\nd1 rev]s+ ! high lights1 & caus+ d>k spots 9 _! /ead4 ,?is rev]sal ( ! int5d$ effect is an additional practical argum5t = ! flatness ( embroid]y4#eib ,f ! ,librate ,roll ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 "o c =m an e/imate ( ! value ( ! opus ,anglicanum 9 its day4#eic ,9 #abda ! k+ gave ,pet] de ,agua ,blanca a mitre s work$1 co/+ #hb4 ,?is w\ld be1 accord+ to ! pres5t value1 #bcj4 ,! f9e/ specim5s ( ?is ,engli% "w are to be f\nd on ! ,cont95t1 or h be5 return$ f x4#eid ,!y _h ei!r be5 gifts to popes or bi%ops be=e ! ,re=mation1 or !y _h be5 sold at t "t ( g5]al p]secution & pillage4 ,among ! mo/ rem>kable are ! pluvial 7call$7 ( ,/4 ,silve/] at ,rome1 ! ,d>oca pluvial at ,madrid1 ! great pluvial at ,bologna1 & ! ,syon cope1 ( :i* ,i h already spok54 ,! g5]al idea & prevail+ design ( ^! ?ree great works are s s+ul>1 & yet s alike1 t !y mu/ h issu$ f ! same work%op1 & t 0 c]ta9ly ,engli%4 ,9 ! ,d>oca cope ! *]ubim1 ) _! feet on :eels1 :i* are peculi> to ,engli% design1 & ! angels 79 ! vacant spaces betwe5 ! fram$ subjects f ! life ( our ,"l7 h _! w+s c>efully done 9 *a9 split-/it* repres5t+ peacocks' fea!rs1 ( :i* ! silk5 eyes are /it*$ 9 circles1 & !n rais$ ) an iron by pressure1 s z to cat* a light & ?r[ a %ad[4 ,! gr\nd is entirely ,engli% gold-laid "w4 ,?is cope1 s m>k$ly national 9 design & /it*es1 probably drift$ to ! ,cont95t at ! "t ( ! ,re=mation4#eie ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gg4 ,*>act]i/ic ,engli% ,p>sem ,patt]ns = ,ecclesia/ical ,embroid]ies4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gh4 ,dun/able ,pall4 ,prop]ty ( ! ,vic> ( ,dun/able ex (ficio4 ,a wond]fully pres]v$ specim5 ( ! opus ,anglicanum1 ( :i* a photogravure is "h giv51 0 lately pres5t$ by ,mr4 ,franks to ! ,m$ival ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,briti% ,museum 7plate #gf74 ,9 ?is may be se5 mo/ ( ! *>act]i/ics ( ?is "w 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury2 su* z ! angels ) peacock fea!r w+s1 m\ld$ by hot irons2 ! features ( all ! figures simil>ly manipulat$2 ! beautiful gold gr\ndwork1 :i* 9 ?is in/ance is cov]$ ) d\ble-head$ eagles2 & la/ly1 ! fa%ion ( ! be>d on ! face ( our ,"l & ( all ! m5 del9eat$--! upp] lip & r\nd ! m\? be+ inv>iably %av52 :]eas1 9 ,cont95tal "w1 ! be>d is all[$ to gr[ into ! m\/a*e1 closely surr\nd+ ! m\?4 ,!re are o!r peculi>ities belong+ to ,engli% design--su* z ! angels ris+ betwe5 ! %r9e-"w on ! pill>s out ( a flame or cl\d patt]n1 & ! pill>s v (t5 =m$ ( tw9$ /ems be>+ v9e-leaves or else oak-leaves & acorns4 ,! comp>tm5ts :i* frame ! gr\ps1 :5 !y are n plac$ 9 ni*es1 are usually v>iations ( ! int]sect$ circle & squ>e4 ,plate #gg %[s ! *]ubim :i* f ! ?irte5? to ! sixte5? c5turies are f\nd on ,engli% ecclesia/ical embroid]ies--also ! vase ( lilies 7emblematic ( ! ,virg971 & ! ,go?ic fl[]s :i* are s commonly p>sem ov] our m$ival alt> frontals & ve/m5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,x appe>s t 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ! p +5i\sly evad$ ! p5alties aga9/ ! excess ( luxury 9 dress1 by we>+ some?+ t look$ z gay1 b 0 less exp5sive ?an ! =bidd5 mat]ials2 & :i* did n come "u ! lett] ( ! law4 ,!y inv5t$ a spuri\s k9d ( embroid]y :i* 01 p]haps1 p>tly pa9t$ 7su* examples are record$74 ,9 ! #bnd ,h5ry ,,vi4 7#adbb7 x 0 enact$ t all su* "w %\ld be =feit$ to ! k+4 ,! accusation 0 t div]s p]sons belong+ to ! craft ( ,br\d]ie make div]s works ( ,br\d]ie ( insuffici5t /uffe & unduly wr\ghte ) gold & silv] ( ,cyprus1 & gold ( ,lucca1 & ,spani% laton 7or t972 & t !y sell ^! at ! fairs ( ,/]eb]g1 ,ox=d1 & ,salisbury1 to ! great deceit ( our ,sov]eign ,"l & all 8 p4 ,9 ^? days any di%one/ "w or mat]ial 0 illegal & puni%able4#eif ,?is 01 9 fact1 a protectioni/ measure 9 fav\r ( ! *>t]$ embroid]]s1 & gave !m a slight ta/e ( ! advantages ( protection4 ,= a "t x 0 d\btless useful 9 keep+ up ! /&>d ( national "w4 ,!n foll[$ fur!r measures = ! b5efit ( ! e/abli%$ monopolies4 ,fir/1 a /atute 9 #adec 7,h5ry ,,vi471 =bidd+ ! importation ( =eign embroid]ies = five ye>s4 ,?is is re-enact$ "u ,edw>d ,,iv41 ,ri*>d ,,iii41 & ,h5ry ,,vii42 & 0 p>tially repeal$ 9 ! #crd & #e? ,george ,,iii4 ,:ile we are on ?is subject1 we may rem>k t 9 #agjg1 ! importation ( embroid]y 0 =bidd5 to ! ,ea/ ,india ,company1 & we clos$ our ports to all manufactur$ ,indian goods4 ,! only arti/ic trade n[ protect$ is t ( ! silv]smi?2 no plate f =eign work%ops be+ p]mitt$ to ent] ,engl&--n ev5 d we all[ ,indian plate to come 91 except "u c]ta9 conditions4 ,?is may be ! reason t our own plate is s v bad 9 design & execution1 = want ( competition & example4 ,protection is always m or less fatal to art4 ,! ,w>s ( ! ,roses _h injur$ our own be/ s*ools1 & we ne$$ ref9$ import$ ideas to raise our /&>d once aga94 ,p]haps1 s9ce embroid]y _h become a regul> indu/ry1 our m>kets 7 ov]/ock$ by home productions :i* 7 outrivall$ by ! works f ! ,cont95t1 & x 0 di/ress t caus$ ! plea = protection4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #gi4 ,pall ( ! ,v9tn]s' ,company 7sixte5? c5tury74 ,x is fair to say t "s ( ! ,engli% works ( t "t1 ( :i* we h specim5s1 are z good z possible4 ,9 ! ,dun/able pall1 = in/ance1 ! figures ( :i* are p]fectly drawn & beautifully execut$1 ! /yle is excell5t & pure ,engli% 7plate #gh74 ,! pall itself is ( ,flor5t9e crimson velvet & gold brocade1 ) ! little loops ( gold drawn ?r\gh ! velvet1 %[+ ! loom f :5ce x came4 ,! :ite sat9 bord] c>ries ! embroid]y4 ,x is a m p]fect specim5 ( ! lat] f\rte5? c5tury "w ?an ! fam\s pall ( ! ,fi%mong]s' ,company1 :i* %[s ! impress ( ! ,flemi% ta/e1 :i* 0 at its p]fection 9 ! fifte5?4 ,! /yle rem9ds u ( t ( ! f9e tape/ries f ! ,/4 ,m>y's ,hall1 ,cov5try1 ( :i* ! subject is ,k+ ,h5ry ,,vi4 & ,c>d9al ,beau=t pray+4 ,! ,v9tn]s' ,company's pall is also v f9e 7plate #gi74 ,illu/ration3 ,h5ry ,,vii4's ,cope f ,/oneyhur/ ,( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 we h ! celebrat$ cope ( ,/oneyhur/1 wov5 9 ,flor5ce1 ( a gold tissue1 ! design rais$ 9 crimson velvet4 ,x is )\t seam1 & ! composition :i* cov]s ! :ole surface is ! cr[n ( ,engl& ly+ on ! portcullis2 & ! ,tudor rose fills up ! space ) a magnific5t scroll4 ,! design is evid5tly ,engli%1 z well z ! embroid]y1 :i* is1 h[ev]1 mu* re/or$#eig 7plate #hj74 ,?is is "o ( ! :ole suite ( ve/m5ts & copes ( clo? ( gold tissue wr\ght ) our badges ( r$ roses & portcullises1 ! :i* we ( late caus$ to be made at ,flor5ce 9 ,italy 444 :i* our k+1 ,h5ry ,,vii41 9 8 w bequea!d to ,god & ,/4 ,pet]1 & to ! ,abbot & ,prior ( our ,mona/]y at ,we/m9/]1#eih :i* 7 design$ = him by ,torrigiano4 ,f ! portraits ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies we c judge ( ! prevail+ ta/e 9 dress embroid]ies ( t p]iod1 :i* consi/$ mo/ly ( delicate patt]ns ( gold or silv] on ! bord]s ( dresses1 & ! l95 coll>s & sleeves4 ,( ?is /yle ,i give a small sampl]1 f ,"l ,middleton's collection4 ,we h a good _m specim5s ( ! "w ( ^! c5turies1 bo? ecclesia/ical & secul>4 ,!y _h /ill a ,go?ic /amp1 :i* totally disappe>$ 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury 9 ! new /yle ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,sampl]1 f ,"l ,middleton's collection4 ,"t1 ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,! next great *ange ?r\gh\t nor!rn ,europe affect+ all ! conditions ( life1 mo/ especially 9 ,engl&1 0 caus$ by ! ,re=mation1 :i* swept away bo? ! art & ! arti/ ( ! ,go?ic era4 ,! mona/]ies :i* _h fo/]$ pa9t+1 illum9ation1 & embroid]y1 & ! arts :i* _h be5 s passionately devot$ to ! ,*ur*1 7 doom$4 ,george ,gif=d1 writ+ to ,cromwell ( ! suppression ( a religi\s h\se at ,wool/rope1 9 ,l9coln%ire1 aft] prais+ t e/abli%m5t says1 ,!re is n "o religi\s p]son !re1 b :at c & do? use ei!r embro!ryng1 wryt+ bookes ) a fayre h&1 mak+ g>m5ts1 k>vynge1 c4#eii ,9 ! g5]al cle>ance ! *ur*es & %r9es 7 swept1 ?\gh nev] aga9 g>ni%$1 & ! survivals h to be pa9fully s\ght =1 & are s few t a %ort catalogue w tell !m all4 ,! great] "p ( ! f9e embroid]ies :i* escap$ ! iconocla/ic rage ( ! ,re=mation1 & ! f9al sweep ( ! ,puritans1 are to be se5 n[ 9 ! h\ses & *apels ( ! old ,roman ,ca?olic families1 :o h ei!r pres]v$ or collect$ !m2 also 9 ! museums ( our ca!drals1 & spread ab\t ! ,cont95t4 ,= in/ance1 at ,s5s are ! ve/m5ts ( ,?omas ,becket1 & at ,val5cia1 9 ,spa91 !re are yet 9 ! *apt]-h\se a *asuble & two dalmatics1 br\ght f ,london by two m]*ants ( ,val5cia1 ^: names are pres]v$--,&rew & ,p$ro de ,m$9a4 ,!y pur*as$ !m at ! sale ( ! ,roman ,ca?olic ornam5ts ( ,we/m9/] ,abbey 9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,!y are embroid]$ 9 gold1 & repres5t sc5es f ! life ( our ,"l4 ,! backgr\nd ( "o is a repres5tation ( ! ,t[] ( ,london4 ,9 #aebj 0 held ! fam\s t\rnam5t ( ! ,field ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold4#fjj ,"h came all ,engl&'s *ivalry surr\nd+ _! spl5did "y k+2 foll[$ by squires & m5-at-arms1 & c>ry+ ) !m t5ts1 bann]s1 & hang+s cov]$ ) devices & mottoes4 ,_! own dresses1 ( ri* mat]ials & adorn$ ) embroid]y 7z well z ! h\s+s ( _! horses71 vi$ 9 +5uity & spl5d\r ) ^? ( ! /ill m luxuri\s c\rt & foll[+ ( ,francis ,i41 ! ,fr5* k+4 ,! tradesm5 & workm5 & workwom5 9 ,engl& 7 driv5 crazy 9 _! ef=ts to c>ry out ! ideas & comm&s ( _! employ]s4 ,x is record$ t sev]al committ$ suicide 9 _! despair4 ,x 0 worse ?an ! mis]ies caus$ by a ,c\rt ,draw+-,room n[4 ,+5uity 9 devices 0 ! ord] ( ! day4 ,francis & 8 ,p>tn]s ( ,*all5ge illu/rat$ "o s5tim5tal motto ?r\gh\t ! ?ree days' t\rney4 ,! fir/ day !y 7 app>ell$ 9 purple sat91 bro*$ ) gold1 & cov]$ ) black-rav5s' fea!rs1 buckl$ into a circle4 ,! fir/ syllable ( corbyn 7a rav57 is cor1 a h>t 7he>t74 ,a fea!r 9 ,fr5* is p5nac4 ,& s x /ode4 ,! fea!r 9 a circle 0 endless1 & betok5$ so! fa/nesse4 ,!n 0 ! device ,h>t fa/5$ 9 pa9 endlesse4 ,! next day ! ,h>dy ,k+s met arm$ at all po9ts4 ,! ,fr5* k+ & 8 foll[]s 7 array$ 9 purple sat91 bro*$ ) gold & purple velvet1 embroid]$ ) little rolls ( :ite sat91 on :i* 0 writt5 ,qu&o2 all ! re/ 0 p[d]$ ) ! lett] ,l--,qu&o ,elle 7:5 %e74 ,! ?ird day ! motto 0 labori\sly br\ght to a conclusion4 ,francis appe>$ dress$ 9 purple velvet embroid]$ ) little :ite op5 books2 ,lib] be+ a book1 ! motto on x 01 ,a me4 ,^! books 7 connect$ ) work$ blue *a9s2 ?us we h ! :ole motto3 ,h>t1 fa/5$ 9 pa9 endlesse1 :5 %e deliv]e? me n ( bondes4 ,c\ld pa9ful +5uity g fur!r8 ,on ! ,engli% side we h simil> devices4 ,br&on1 ,duke ( ,suffolk1 ! bridegroom ( ! ,d[ag] ,que5 ( ,france1 ,h5ry's si/]1 0 clo!d on "o side 9 clo? ( frise 7grey wooll571 on :i* appe>$ embroid]$ 9 gold ! motto1-- ,clo? ( frise1 be n too bold ,t ?\ be mat*'d ) clo? ( gold4 ,?is p>ti-col\r$ g>m5t 0 on ! o!r side ( gold1 ) ! motto1-- ,clo? ( gold1 d n despise ,t ?\ be mat*'d ) clo? ( frise4 ,besides mottoes1 cyph]s & monograms 7 ! fa%ion1 embroid]$ ) h]aldic devices4 ,^! p>ticul>s we f9d 9 ,hall's acc\nt ( ! t\rnam5t1 ) a detail$ description ( ! gold5 t5t 9 :i* ! mon>*s met1 & :i* gave its "n ev] aft] to ! pla9 ne> ,guisnes1 :]e ! j\/s 7 held4 ,:at we read ( its con/ruction recalls ! ,alex&rian erections1 ( :i* ,i h spok5 already1 z well z _! hang+s & embroid]ies4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ha4 ,engli% ,specim5s ( ,spani% ,"w4 ,"t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,"l ,middleton's ,collection4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #hb4 ,engli% ,specim54 ,spani% ,"w4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,l\isa1 ,lady ,wat]=d's ,collection4 ,incru/ations ( pe>ls & preci\s /ones gave a dazzl+ brilliancy to ! t5t1 divid$ into _m rooms1 & adapt$ to ! climate ( ! nor?4 ,x cov]$ a space ( #cbh feet4 ,hall describes ! t5t1 ! j\/s1 & ! spl5did app>el belong+ to ?is la/ *apt] ( ! magnific5ce ( *ivalry4 ,brew] rem>ks t magnific5ce 01 9 ^? days1 (t5 suppos$ to be synonym\s ) magnanimity 7at any rate1 x 0 erect$ into a royal virtue74 ,! ,m$ival ,age1 he says1 _h ga!r$ up its dep>t+ en]gies = ?is la/ display ( its fav\rite pa/ime1 h5ce=? to be consign$ )\t regret to ! m\ld]+ lodges ( ! pa/4#fja ,we _c say h[ mu* ( ,fr5* ta/e 0 import$ f ?is meet+ ( ,fr5* & ,engli% luxury4 ,! _s ( ! ,r5aissance1 fre% f ,italy1 0 reign+ 9 ,france1 b we _h also 9 ,italy our own emiss>ies4 ,john ( ,padua 0 probably only "o ( _m ,engli%m5 :o travell$ to le>n & improve !mselves 9 _! special crafts4 ,ca!r9e ( ,aragon introduc$ ! ,spani% ta/e 9 embroid]y1 :i* 0 !n :ite or black silk & gold lace /it*es on f9e l95 7plate #ha74 ,?is w5t by ! "n ( ,spani% "w1 & cont9u$ to be ! fa%ion d[n to & ?r\gh ! reign ( ,m>y ,tudor1 :o rema9$ fai?ful to ! traditions ( h] "m's & h] gr&mo!r's "w#fjb 7plate #hb74 ,ca!r9e ( ,aragon _h le>n$ h] craft f h] "m1 ,que5 ,isabella1 :o always made h] husb&'s %irts4 ,to make & adorn a %irt 0 !n an arti/ic feat1 n unwor?y ( a que54 ,isabella in/itut$ trials ( ne$lework among/ h] ladies4 ,9 ! days ( h] disgrace & solitude1 ,ca!r9e turn$ to h] embroid]y = solace & occupation4 ,%e came =? to meet ! ,c>d9als ,wolsey & ,campeggio ) a ske9 ( r$ silk r\nd h] neck4#fjc ,taylor1 ! wat] poet1 says1-- ,virtu\sly1 ,al?\gh a que51 h] days did pass ,9 work+ ) h] ne$le curi\sly4 ,at ,silb]gh ,ca/le1 9 ,we/morel&1 0 a c\nt]pane & toilet embroid]$ by ,que5 ,ca!r9e4 ,anne ( ,cleves br\ght ) h] ! ta/e = ,flemi% & ,g]man ,r5aissance designs2 & all ! cu%ion /it*es 7 9 vogue4 ,! ,r5aissance bord]s = dress 7 mo/ly work$ 9 gold on col\r$ silk on ! l95 coll>s & cuffs4 ,holbe9's & o!r contempor>y portraits illu/rate ?is peculi>ity ( ! co/umes ( ! "t4 ,! wom5's head-dresses also c>ri$ mu* f9e1 beautifully design$1 & delicate "w4 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 f9e hang+s 7 work$ & wov5 9 ,engl&2 ! royal inv5tories give u an idea to :at ext5t4 ,c>d9al ,wolsey's walls 7 cov]$ ) spl5did embroid]ies1 besides ! suites ( tape/ries /ill adorn+ ! hall at ,hampton ,c\rt4 ,"o room 0 hung ) embroid]$ clo? ( gold4 ,m>y ,tudor1 z ,i h said1 0 ,spani% 9 all h] ta/es1 & we h li/s ( h] smocks all work$ 9 ,spani% /it*es1 black & gold1 or black silk only4#fjd ,?is ta/e1 foll[+ ! political t5d5cies ( ! "t1 entirely disappe>$ "u ,elizabe?4 ,x survives1 h[ev]1 9 peasant dress 9 ! ,l[ ,c\ntries4 ,que5 ,elizabe? sp5t mu* ( h] "t 9 ne$lework4 ,%e h]self _h receiv$ ! education ( a man1 z well z h] c\s91 ,lady ,jane ,grey2 & d\btless _m wom5 7 taught at t "t ,greek & ,lat91 & to /udy philosophy1 ma!matics1 & ! sci5ce ( music1 z a tra9+ = s]i\s life4 ,elizabe? /udi$ & embroid]$ too2 at any rate1 %e /ood godmo!r to _m pieces ( embroid]y1 :i* are to be se5 /ill 9 ! h\ses %e visit$ or occupi$4 ,:ile at ,a%ridge1 & aft]w>ds z a prison] at ,hatfield1 %e s employ$ h]self2 & among ! specim5s ( "w ( ! sixte5? c5tury exhibit$ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 9 #ahgc1 7 h] %oes & cap1 work$ 9 purl1 a sema9ire 9 ! same /it*1 also cu%ion-cov]s 9 div]s cu%ion /it*es1 & a portmonnaie 9 exquisitely f9e sat9-/it*2 all ( :i* articles1 & _m m1 7 left by h] at ,a%ridge :5 %e 0 hurri$ away 9 ! dead ( night to ,hatfield4#fje ,! "* ( ! ,r5aissance ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 j releas$ f ! trammels ( ,go?ic traditions1 0 some:at lawless 9 ,engl&1 be+ un*a/5$ by ! classical elem5t :i* entirely controll$ ! movem5t 9 ,italy4 ,! que5's dress soon dep>t$ f ! sev]e simplicity :i* %e at fir/ affect$1 & e "p ( h] co/ume 0 cov]$ ) fl[]s1 fruit1 & symbolical designs2 :ile s]p5ts1 cr[ns1 *a9s1 roses1 eyes & e>s cr[d$ ! surfaces ( ! f9e mat]ials ( h] dresses4 ,^! symbolical designs 7 ri* )\t grace1 & +5i\s r ?an arti/ic1 al?\gh _! workman%ip 0 p]fect4 ,9 ,l\isa1 ,lady ,wat]=d's collection we f9d a jacket = a slight girl's figure1 ( :ite l951 cov]$ ) fl[]s1 fruit1 & b]ries1 all c>ri$ out 9 sat9 & lace /it*es4 ,!re are butt]flies ) _! w+s dis5gag$ f ! gr\nd2 pods bur/+ op5 & %[+ ! r\nd se$s or peas2 cat]pill>s /uff$ & rais$2 all ^! a/oni% u by _! qua9t p]fection1 & %ock u by _! naturali/ic crud5ess ( design1 & ! utt] want ( beauty or ta/e 9 ! :ole effect4 ,! impression left on ! m9d is1 h[ de> x mu/ h co/ ! pocket ( ! pur*as] & ! eyes ( ! work]s4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 exceptions to ^! defective poor designs2 & 9 ! same collection is a cu%ion-cov] work$ 9 gold & silv] plate1 purl & silk1 on a r$ sat9 gr\nd1 :i* is z good z possible 9 e respect1 & is purely ,engli% 9 /yle4 ,! /it*es & mat]ials are mo/ ref9$ & v>i$4 ,purl1 :i* 0 a newly made mat]ial import$ f ,italy & ,g]many1 0 !n 9 mu* vogue1 & we h se5 a few f9e specim5s ( x1 t h be5 imitat$ f ! ,italian c9que-c5to rais$ & /uff$ ne$lework1 :i* are v curi\s & almo/ v beautiful1--only "o feels t ! same effect c\ld h be5 produc$ by simpl] means4 ,?is "w is *>act]i/ic ( ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 ,elizabe?1 & ,james ,i4 ,we h ne$lework ( ano!r mo/ unhappy que5 ( ?is date4 ,poor ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 tri$ to s(t5 ,elizabe?'s he>t t[>ds h] prison] by little gifts ( h] own embroid]ies4#fjf ,we h no acc\nt ( ! cause ( ! incorporation ( ! ,embroid]]s' ,company by ,que5 ,elizabe?1#fjg 9 ! ?ird ye> ( h] reign1 ,oct4 #be?1 #aefa1 confirm$ by ,james ,,ii41 ,april #ab?1 #afhf1 :i* is /ill a ,london guild4 ,x receiv$ ! lions ( ,engl& z a special fav\r4 ,! arms are ?us blazon$3 ,pale ( six arg5t & azure on a fess gules1 betwe5 ?ree lions ( ,engl& pass4 g>dant or4 ,?ree bro*es 9 saltire betwe5 z _m trundles 7i4e4 quills ( gold ?read71 or4 ,cre/3 on a wrea? a he>t2 ! holy dove display$ arg5t1 radiat$ or4 ,support]s3 two lions or 7gutte de sang74 ,motto3 ',omnia ,desup]4' ,hall1 #bj1 ,gutt] ,lane4 ,!re 7 bran*es1 incorporat$ & be>+ ! arms1 at ,bri/ol & ,*e/]1 9 #aghj4 7,see ,app5dix47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,arms ( ,embroid]]s' ,guild4 ,9 ! reign ( ,james ,i4 x 0 ! fa%ion to d portraits 9 ne$lework1 /it*$ flat or rais$4 ,"s are arti/ic 9 design & execution1 b !y are mo/ly ridicul\sly bad4 ,! ,ea/ ,india ,company 0 f\nd$ 9 #aefj1 "u ,elizabe?1 & obta9$ ! monopoly ( ! ,anglo-,indian trade1 "u ,cromwell1 9 #afcd4 ,?is w\ld h be5 ! mom5t = enc\rag+ a fre% importation ( ,ori5tal ta/e into our deg5]ate art4 ,cromwell's own s]vice ( plate 0 scrat*$ ov] 7graffito7 ) a *ildi% & weak semi-,indian1 semi-,*9ese design2 & we mu/ accept ?is z typical ( ! arti/ic ,ori5tal k ( t day4 ,graft$ on ! /yle ( ,james ,i41 x %[s1 h[ev]1 t ,indian ideas 7 creep+ 9 & s\ght =1 if n und]/ood 9 high places1 "u ! auspices ( ! ,ea/ ,india ,company4 ,ne$lework alone 0 exclud$ f all b5efit4 ,f t date1 = #aej ye>s1 ,indian manufactures 7 import$1 ) ! exception ( embroid]y1 :i* 0 contrab& by ! anci5t /atutes4 ,?is acc\nts = our fa9t & ignorant imitations ( ,indian "w1 & ! extreme r>ity ( ! true specim5s to be met ) 9 ,engl&1 unless ( a lat] p]iod4 ,illu/ration3 ,cu%ion cov] ,temp4 ,que5 ,elizabe? ,,xvi4 ,c5tury ,b our ,aryan in/9cts h always l$ our ,engli% ta/es t[>ds conv5tional naturalism4 ,al?\gh we h lo/ ! rules & traditions :i* conv]t$ natural objects into patt]ns1 we are cont9ually1 9 our /yle1 lean+ & grop+ 9 _! direction1 & tw9+ fl[]s1 ^? ( ! field by pref]5ce1 into semi-conv5tional g>l&s & posies4 ,9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 ,james ,i4 0 k+1 protection _h done its wor/4 ,! /yle ( "w call$ embroid]y on ! /amp 0 !n ! fa%ion4 ,?is sort ( "w 9 ,italy cont9u$ to be arti/ic1 b ! ,engli% specim5s t h surviv$ f ?is reign are mo/ly v ugly4 ,cont95tal art _h ceas$ to influ5ce u1 & bad ta/e reign$ supreme1 except 9 our ar*itecture1 :i* _h cry/alliz$ into a picturesque /yle ( our own call$ ,james ,i41 & 0 ! outcome ( ! la/ ,go?ic ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 & ! ,italian /yle ( ,edw>d ,,vi4 & ,elizabe?4 ,b ! c>v+s ( t phase ( ar*itecture 7 semi-b>b>\s4 ,no?+ c\ld h be5 poor] ?an _! composition1 or co>s] ?an _! execution1 & ! ne$lework ( ! day foll[$ suit4 ,inf9ite tr\ble & +5uity 7 wa/$ on look+-glass frames1 picture frames1 & caskets work$ 9 purl1 gold1 & silv]4 ,! subjects 7 ambiti\s ,solomon & ! ,que5 ( ,%eba1 & ,james & ,anne ( ,d5m>k1#fjh & o!r hi/orical figures 7 /uff$ ) cotton or wool1 & rais$ into high relief2 & !n dress$ & g>ni%$ ) pe>ls2 ! faces ei!r 9 pa9t$ sat9 or f9e sat9 /it*2 ! hair & wigs 9 purl or complicat$ knott+4 ,w9dsor ,ca/le z a backgr\nd = ,k+ ,james & ,k+ ,solomon alike1 po9t$ ! clumsy allegory1 & ! lion ( ,engl& gamboll+ 9 ! =egr\nd1 amid fl[]s & coats-(-arms1 fill$ up ! composition4 ,! draw+ & design 7 *ildi%1 & %[ u h[ high art c 9 a c5tury or less slip back into no art at all4 ,any "o comp>+ ! ,dun/able or ! ,fi%mong]s' pall ) "o ( ! be/ caskets ( ?is p]iod w\ld say t ! latt] %\ld h prec$$ ! =m] by c5turies4 ,9 ,james ,i4's "t1 ignorance ( all rules ( composition 0 add$ to ! abs5ce ( any sort ( /yle4#fji ,i give ! illu/rations ( ! "t ( ,james ,i4 ,plate #hc is a cu%ion f ,hatfield ,h\se1 ri* & r fooli%1 ) t9y m5 fill+ 9 ! corn]s left vacant by l>ge fl[]s1 cat]pill>s1 c4 ,*>les ,i4 gave a rais$ embroid]$ cope to ! ,*apt] ( ,durham1 ( ?is description ( "w4#faj ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #hd4 ,engli% embroid]$ curta9 7,james ,i471 at ,cockayne ,hatley1 ,b$s4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #he4 ,embroid]$ ,hang+s4 ,crewels on ,l954 ,h>dwicke ,hall4 ,! o!r fa%ionable "w ( t day _h its m]its4 ,x 0 ! cu/om to embroid] hang+s or l95 9 crewels4 ,consid]+ h[ (t5 9 ?is book & my prec$+ lectures ,i h said t ?is /yle ( "w 0 common 7ev5 9 ! e>ly days ( ,egypt & ,assyria71 x may well be said1 :5 0 x n ! fa%ion8 & ,i mu/ answ]1 only s9ce ! days ( ,que5 ,anne4 ,x seems z if be=e t "t our designs = "w 7 p>tially influ5c$ by ! f9e ,indian specim5s :i* _h surreptiti\sly crept into ,engl&4 ,"s ( ^! are v clev]ly execut$4 ,huge conv5tional trees gr[ f a gre5 /rip ( e>? c>ry+ e v>iety ( leaf & fl[] done 9 _m /it*es4 ,! individual leaf or fl[] is (t5 v beautiful4 ,on ! bank bel[1 small de] & lions disport !mselves1 & birds twice _! size p]* on ! bran*es 7plate #hd74faa ,b ev5 :]e ! "w is f9e/1 ! incongruities are too annoy+4 ,! mod]n excuse = x1 t x is qua9t1 does n reconcile u to its extravagant effect4 ,to be qua9t 9 art is1 z ,i h said be=e1 to be funny )\t int5d+ x2 & ^! curta9s are funny by _! abs5ce ( all int5tion or p]spective1 & :5 hung !y make ev]y?+ 9 ! room look disproportionate to ! unnatural size ( ! foliage4 7,plate #he47 ,specim5s ( ?is "w are to be f\nd 9 mo/ ,engli% c\ntry h\ses4 ,x has la/$ till n[1 p>tly because ! crewels fir/ manufactur$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury 7 ( an excell5t quality1 & secondly1 because !re 0 no gold to make x wor? any "o's :ile to de/roy !m2 s ! old hang+s w5t up into ! attics 9 all ! disgrace ( %abb9ess1 & h come d[n aga9 z family relics4 ,ev5 ! mo?s h be5 depriv$ ( _! prey1 by ^! curta9s hav+ s]v$ = ! b$s ( ! h\sehold1 s t !y h be5 kept = _! ne>ly #cjj ye>s ( exi/5ce1 air$ & du/$4 ,mu* ( ?is "w has be5 recov]$ f f>mh\ses & cottages 9 tol]able pres]vation4 ,9 _m cases ! fl[]s h surviv$ ! /\t l95 gr\nds on :i* !y 7 work$4 ,! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,ne$lework has (t5 be5 commission$ to re/ore & transf] ! crewel trees on to a new back+4 ,! hang+s & ! curta9s ,i h describ$1 prevail$ f ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign to t ( ,que5 ,anne1 & gradually det]iorat$4 ,! /it*es1 ( :i* ! v>iety at fir/ 0 inf9ite1 _h giv5 place to a co>se uni=m /em /it*--gobble /it*4 ,! mat]ials also 7 ( inf]ior quality1 & less durable1 s t ! late/ specim5s are 9 g5]al 9 ! wor/ condition4 ,x is rem>kable h[ little ! beautiful ,cont95tal "w influ5c$ our ,engli% s*ool4 ,we 7 enjoy+ p]fect protection1 & 7 clumsily tak+ advantage ( our security f all competition4 ,9 ! ,italian palaces ?is 0 ! mom5t ( ! f9e/ secul> embroid]ies 9 sat9 /it*es1 gold & silv]1 & inlaid & onlaid appliqus4 ,likewise 9 ,spa9 & ,portugal ! ,ori5tal "w1 especially t execut$ at ,goa1 fill$ ! palaces & ! conv5ts ) gorge\s hang+s1 c>pets1 table-cov]s1 & b$ furniture4 ,we feel x pa9ful to contra/ ) ^! our own %ortcom+s 9 art1 & our fad$ glories4 ,! fact is1 t1 ow+ to our art-kill+ protectioni/ laws1 embroid]y _h ! mis=tune to be treat$ at t "t z textile manufacture1 & n z art at all4 ,9 ! reign ( ,william & ,m>y1 ,dut* ta/e _h naturally be5 br\ght to ! front4#fab ,?is includ$ ,japanese art1 or imitations ( x1 & also _h some?+ ( late ,spani%4 ,! ,georges br\ght into ,engl&1 & naturaliz$ a r heavy "w1 9 gold & silv]--! design be+ decid$ly a ,g]man ,l\is ,quatorze--ri*ly /it*$ & heavily fr+$1 & mu* employ$ on c\rt dresses & on /ate furniture4 ,we h se5 royal b$s & c\rt suits :i* %[ v little diff]5ce 9 /yle4 ,x does n appe> t ?is 0 work$ by ladies4 ,x has1 someh[1 a pr(essional look4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,"p ( ,james ,,ii4's ,coronation ,dress4 ,f an old ,pr9t4 ,occasionally1 h[ev]1 we meet ) pieces ( exceptionally beautiful "w ( ! end ( ! sev5te5? & e>ly "p ( ! eighte5? c5turies4 ,! /yle is ! mo/ ref9$ ,l\is ,quatorze1 b ! "w is actually ,engli%4 ,! :ite sat9 cov]lets belong+ to ! ,m>quis ( ,ba? & ! ,duke ( ,le$s are n to be exce$$ 9 delicacy & spl5d\r4 ,! embroid]$ dresses ( ! ,duke & ,du*ess ( ,buck+ham1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey 7e>ly eighte5? c5tury7 are ( ?is description4 ,f ,que5 ,anne to ,george ,,iii41 a great deal ( furniture 0 cov]$ ) ! diff]5t cu%ion /it*es1 ei!r 9 geometrical or kaleidoscope patt]ns1 or else display+ gr\ps ( fl[]s or figures1 qua9t & sometimes pretty4 ,^! designs are g5]ally1 h[ev]1 want+ 9 grace1 & _! ,g]man feel+ %[s !m to be ! precursors ( ! ,b]l9 wool patt]ns4 ,:5 ! crewel-"w hang+s ceas$ to be ! fa%ion1 home "w took ano!r direction4 ,all ! ladies imitat$ ,indian dimity patt]ns1 on musl91 9 col\r$ silks or ?read1 ) ! tamb\r-frame & ne$le2#fac b 9 #agjg ! ,broid]]s' ,company1 we presume1 f\nd t ! ,indian manufactures 7 engross+ ! m>ket1 & a fre% /atute 0 obta9$1 =bidd+ ! importation f ,india ( any wr\ght mat]ial4 ,?is cruel prohibition c>ri$ its own puni%m5t4 ,! ,indian trade 0 ours1 & we might h adapt$ & assimilat$ ! ,indian ta/e = design4 ,we might h br\ght ov] m5 & wom5 great 9 _! mo/ anci5t craft1 & s produc$ ! mo/ spl5did ,indo-,engli% ,s*ool4 ,! ,portuguese at lea/ s5t out _! own silks & sat9s to be work$ at ,goa2 we ?rew away our *ance1 & sign$ ! dea?-w>rant ( our art4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ! la/ c5tury1 sev]al ladies1 notably ,miss ,l9wood1 ,miss ,moritt1 ( ,rokeby1 & ,mrs4 ,delany1 copi$ pictures 9 wor/$s4 ,"s ( ^! are wond]fully clev] & ev5 v pretty1 b !y are r a pa9ful ef=t ( pictorial art "u difficulties1 ?an legitimate embroid]ies4 ,^! pictures w\ld h s]v$ ! purpose ( decoration bett] z m$allions 9 ! c5tres ( arabesque panels1 ?an fram$ & glaz$ 9 imitation ( oil pa9t+s4 ,"s ( ! foll[]s ( ?is s*ool produc$ works t are %ock+ to all arti/ic s5se1 especially z se5 n[1 :5 ! mo?s h spoil$ !m4 ,!y c only be class$ ) su* abortive attempts at decoration z glass cases fill$ ) decay$ /uff$ birds1 & vases ( fad$ & brok5 wax fl[]s4 ,i may record ) praise ! ef=ts ( ,mrs4 ,pawsey1#fad a lady :o />t$ a s*ool ( ne$lework at ,aylesbury4 ,%e 0 patroniz$ by ,que5 ,*>lotte2 & = h] %e work$ ! beautiful b$ at ,hampton ,c\rt1 ( purple sat91 ) wrea?s ( fl[]s 9 crewels t\*$ up ) silk1 :i* look z if !y might h be5 copi$ f ! fl[]-pieces ( a ,dut* ma/]4 ,! execution is v f9e1 & rem9ds "o ( ! be/ ,fr5* "w ( ! same p]iod4 ,mrs4 ,pawsey taught & help$ ladies to embroid] 9 silk & *5ille1 z well z crewels1 & 9 _m c\ntry h\ses we c recognize specim5s ( h] /yle2 usually on scre5s work$ 9 silk & *5ille1 ) bun*es ( fl[]s 9 vases or baskets1 arti/ically design$4 ,?is 0 our la/ attempt at excell5ce1 imm$iately foll[$ by ! total collapse ( our decorative ne$lework1 & ! adv5t ( ! ,b]l9 wool patt]ns4 ,,po/script4 ,a po/script to ?is *apt] w p]haps be acceptable to ^? :o h tak5 an int]e/ 9 ! ,hi/ory ( ,engli% ,embroid]y1 & :o w !re=e c>e to "k ab\t ! revival :i* has fill$ s _m work%ops ) :at is n[ call$ ,art ,ne$lework4 ,!re 0 a public dem& = some?+ bett] ?an ! wor/$ patt]ns 9 ! trade1 & ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework rose & tri$ to respond to t call by /imulat+ orig9al ideas & designs1 & imitat+ old ones 9 con=mity ) mod]n requirem5ts4 ,! difficulties to be ov]come 7 at fir/ v great4 ,! old /it*es _h all to be le>n$ & !n taught1 & ! be/ me?ods to be select$2 ! prop] mat]ials _h to be /udi$ & obta9$--sometimes !y _h to be manufactur$4 ,la/ly1 beautiful t9ts _h to be dy$2 avoid+1 z mu* z possible1 ! gaudy & ! evanesc5t4 ,! project ( su* a s*ool 0 fir/ conceiv$ 9 ! autumn ( #ahgb4 ,lady ,welby1 h]self an accompli%$ embroid]ess1 _h ! c\rage to face all ! difficulties ( su* an und]tak+4 ,a small ap>tm5t 0 hir$ 9 ,sloane ,/reet1 & ,mrs4 ,dolby1 :o 0 already an au?ority on ecclesia/ical "w1 gave h] help4 ,tw5ty "y ladies 7 select$1 & sev]al fri5ds jo9$ he>tily 9 fo/]+ ! movem5t4 ,h4,r4,h4 ! ,pr9cess ,*ri/ian ( ,s*leswig-,hol/e9 gave h] "n z ,presid5t1 & h] active co-op]ation4#fae ,! s*ool grew s fa/1 t = want ( space = ! "w-frames1 x _h to remove into a l>g] h\se1 ,no4 #ca1 ,sloane ,/reet1 & f9ally 9 ! ye> #ahge x f\nd its pres5t home 9 ,exhibition ,road1 :5 ! ,que5 became its ,patron4 ,9 #ahgh ! ,association 0 incorporat$ "u ! ,bo>d ( ,trade1 ) a ,manag+ & a ,f9ance ,committee1 & a sal>i$ manag] to ov]look ! :ole conc]n4 ,f #ajj to #aej ladies at a "t h !re receiv$ employm5t4 ,_! claims 7 pov]ty1 g5tle bir?1 & suffici5t capacity to enable !m to support !mselves & be educat$ to tea* o!rs4 ,bran* s*ools h be5 />t$ ?r\gh\t ! ,unit$ ,k+dom & 9 ,am]ica4#faf ,! education ( ! s*ool has be5 mu* assi/$ by ! easy access to ! f9e collections ( anci5t embroid]ies 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 & by ! loan exhibition ( old arti/ic "w1 :i* 0 !re organiz$ 9 #ahge1 at ! sugge/ion ( ,h4,r4,h4 ! ,presid5t2 & s9ce !n !re h be5 ?ree v int]e/+ loan exhibitions 9 ! rooms ( ! ,royal ,s*ool4 ,x 01 inde$1 necess>y t ! act+ memb]s %\ld avail !mselves ( e means ( in/ruction1 9 ord] to fit !mselves = ! task !y _h und]tak54 ,!y 7 expect$ at once to be compet5t to judge all old "w1 to "n its /yle & date1 & ev5 sometimes its m>ket value4 ,!y 7 to be able to repair & add to all old "w2 to "k & tea* e /it*1 anci5t & mod]n2 & produce designs = any p]iod1 ,go?ic1 ,r5aissance1 ,elizabe?an1 ,james ,i41 or ,que5 ,anne2 besides contempor>y ,european "w1--all diff]5t1 & ea* requir+ sep>ate /udy4 ,"s important works h be5 produc$ :i* w illu/rate :at has be5 said3-- #a4 ,a suite ( w9d[ curta9s = h] ,maje/y1 at ,w9dsor 7/yle1 n9ete5? c5tury2 sunfl[]s74 #b4 ,curta9s = a draw+-room = ! ,du*ess ( ,buccleu*3 crimson velvet & gold appliqu 7,l\is ,quatorze74 #c4 ,curta9 = ,l\isa1 ,lady ,a%burton3 col\r$ silk embroid]y on :ite sat9 7,v5etian1 sixte5? c5tury74 #d4 ,curta91 also = ,l\isa1 ,lady ,a%burton3 br[n velvet & gold appliqu 7,italian74 #e4 ,dado = ! ,hon4 ,mrs4 ,p]cy ,wyndham3 l95 & crewels4 ,peacocks & v9es 7,m$ival74 #f4 ,furni%+s & hang+s = /ate b$room = ,c\ntess ,c[p]1 ,pan%ang]3 crimson sat91 embroid]$ & col\r$ silks 7,*9ese74 #g4 ,curta9s = music gall]y = ,mr4 ,ar?ur ,balf\r3 blue silk1 appliqu1 velvet1 & gold 7,italian74 ,! e>ne/ attempt to produce an arti/ic s*ool ( embroid]y met ) recognition & help f ! highe/ au?orities4 ,sir ,f4 ,leighton grant$ p]mission = appeals to 8 judgm5t4 ,mr4 ,burne ,jones1 ,mr4 ,morris1 ,mr4 ,walt] ,crane1 & ,mr4 ,wade gave orig9al designs4 ,we _c guess :e!r ! ta/e :i* has sprung up aga9 s sudd5ly w la/4 ,p]haps its ca?olicity may prolong its popul>ity1 & some?+ absolutely new 9 /yle may be evolv$1 :i* %all revive ! cr$it ( ! opus ,anglicanum4 ,( "o ?+ we may be sure--t x is inh]5t 9 ! nature ( ,engli%wom5 to employ _! f+]s4 ,& ! busy z well z ! ignorant ne$ a guide to ! pr9ciples ( design1 z well z ! te*nical details ( ! art ( embroid]y4 ,?is %\ld be suppli$ by ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework1 :i* by inculcat+ c>eful draw+1 by reviv+ old traditions & criticiz+ fre% ideas1 becomes a gu>antee = ! improvem5t ( dome/ic decorative design4 ,,footnotes3 #eee ,! p ( ,babylon1 ! ,accadians1 _h a writt5 lit]ature & a civilization sup]ior to t ( ! conqu]+ ,assyrians1 :o borr[$ _! art ( writ+1 & probably _! culture1 :i* may h be5 ! c5tre & />t+-po9t ( ! we/]n civilization ( ,asia1 & !re=e ! orig9 ( our own4 ,accadian civilization 0 ant]ior to t ( ! ,phnicians & ! ,greeks1 & is n[ receiv$ 9 ^! lat] ye>s z ! orig9al =m1 & become aga9 ! h]itage ( mank9d4 ,x has be5 said t ,assyrian art 0 de/itute ( orig9ality1 & to t ( ! ,accadians1 :i* !y adopt$1 we ourselves owe our fir/ cu/oms & ideas4 ,f\r ?\s& ye>s ago ^! p possess$ a culture :i* 9 _m ( its details resembles t ( our c\ntry & "t4--,assyrian ,life & ,hi/ory1 p4 #ff1 by ,m4 ,h>kness & ,/u>t ,poole4 #eef ,! arts ( sp9n+ & ! manufacture ( l95 7 introduc$ into ,europe & drift$ into ,brita9 9 ! ,neoli?ic ,age4 ,!y h be5 pres]v$ ) b little v>iation f t p]iod d[n to ! pres5t day 9 c]ta9 remote p>ts ( ,europe1 & h only be5 sup]s$$ 9 mod]n times by ! complicat$ ma*9]y s famili> to u4444 ,! sp9dle & di/aff are prov$ by ! p]=at$ sp9dle-:orls1 made ( /one1 pott]y1 or bone1 commonly met ) 9 ,neoli?ic habitations or tombs4 ,! ?read is prov$1 by discov]ies 9 ! ,swiss lakes1 to h be5 made ( flax2 & ! combs t h be5 f\nd = pu%+ ! ?reads ( ! w>p on ! weft %[ t x 0 wov5 into l95 on "s sort ( loom4--,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 p4 #bge4 #eeg ,i am aw>e t ! pres5ce ( ! ,phnicians 7or ,c>?ag9ians7 on our coa/s has be5 disput$2 b ,i ?9k t ! evid5ce ( ! ,etruscan ornam5ts ,i h m5tion$ gives m ?an probability to ! tru? ( ,pl9y's acc\nt ( ! exp$ition ( ,himilco f ,gades1 #ejj ,b4,c4 ,by "s he is suppos$ to h be5 a contempor>y ( ,hanno1 & ( ! ?ird c5tury ,b4,c4 ,!re is "s confusion 9 ! imp]fect record ( ! voyage2 b x is difficult to int]pret x o!rwise ?an t he t\*$ at sev]al po9ts nor? ( ,gaul4 7,see ,boyd ,dawk9s' ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 pp4 #deg-dfa2 see also ,p]rot & ,*ipiez1 ,l',hi/oire de l',art dans l',antiquit1 t4 iii42 ,phnicie et ,cypre1 p4 #dh47 ,= a contr>y op9ion1 see ,elton's ,orig9s ( ,engli% ,hi/ory4 ,elton ascribes ! fir/ k ( ! ,briti% isl&s to ! voyage ( ,py!as 9 ! f\r? c5tury ,b4,c42 he ackn[l$ges t ! geography ( ,brita9 0 well kn[n to ! ,greeks 9 ! "t ( ,alex&] ! ,great4 ,we owe to ,pl9y & ,/rabo ! few fragm5ts f ,py!as t h be5 rescu$ f oblivion1 & to ,pl9y ! notices ( ,himilco4 7,see ,b\illet's ,dictionnaire d',hi/oire et de ,gographie47 #eeh ,see ,rock's ,introduction to ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 xii4 #eei ,i give ! foll[+ amus+ tradition1 :i* 0 probably f\nd$ on ! celebrity ( ! ,engli% pe>l embroid]y ( ! ,anglo-,saxon times1 ( :i* mu* w5t to ,rome3-- ,!n ,cs>1 l a conqu]or1 ) a great numb] ( prison]s sail$ into ,france1 & s to ,rome1 :]e aft] 8 return out ( ,bryta9e1 hee consecrat$ to ,v5us a surcote ( ,bryta9e pe>les1 ! desire :]e( p>tly mov$ him to invade ?is c\ntry4--7,/['s ,annales1 p4 #ad1 ed4 #afcd47 ,tacitus1 9 ! ,agricola #ab1 says t ,briti% pe>ls are grey & livid4 #efj ,see ,rock's ,introduction to ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 xii4 #efa ,^! are ! poor results ( ! ,roman invasion & neglect ( ,brita9 dur+ _! occupation4 ,! second invasion ( ,brita9 by ! ,romans1 "u ,claudius1 0 caus$ by ! squabbles betwe5 ! *iefs ( ! diff]5t tribes4 ,comn5us1 ! pr9ce ( ! ,atrebates1 0 at w> ) ! sons ( ,cunobel9us 7,cymbel9e74 ,he took 8 grievances to ,rome1 & ! ,roman legions 7 despat*$ to settle ! matt]1 & to dazzle ! _w by ! e*oes r ?an ! facts ( ! triumphant victories 9 ! l& ( ! w9try pole4 ,claudius m>*$ ) elephants clad 9 mail1 & be>+ turrets fill$ ) sl+]s & b[m51 accompani$ by ,belgic pikem5 & ,batavians f ! isl&s 9 ! ,rh9e1 ,a4,d4 #dd4 ,! dress ( ,claudius on 8 return f ,brita9 0 purple1 ) an ivory sceptre & cr[n ( gold oak leaves4 ,"o (fic] alone 0 entitl$ to we> a tunic embroid]$ ) gold5 palms1 9 tok5 ( a =m] victory4 ,! ,celts1 ! ,gauls1 ! ,gaels1 ! ,picts1 ! ,scots1 & ! ,saxons1--all cr[d$ & settl$ 9 ,brita9 :5 ! ,romans left x 9 #daj1 aft] ne>ly f\r hundr$ ye>s ( misgov]nm5t4 7,see ,elton's ,orig9s ( ,engli% ,hi/ory1 pp4 #cjf-cjh47 #efb ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il1 pp4 #acc1 #acd4 ,see ,l\is ,vi>dot1 ,des ,orig9es ,traditionnelles de la ,pe9ture en ,italie 7,p>is1 #ahdj71 p4 #ec1 note4 ,also see ,les ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 "p ii4 vol4 ii4 p4 #bdc1 ,no4 #djib4 ,muratori 0 born 9 #afgb2 & he says ! ,empress ,hel5a's "w 0 9 exi/5ce 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 7,see p4 #caf1 ante47 #efc ,:5 ,/4 ,augu/9e 7#edf7 came to prea* to ! ,anglo-,saxons1 he _h a bann]1 fa/5$ to a cross1 c>ri$ be=e him1 on :i* 0 embroid]$ ! image ( our ,"l4 7,see ,mrs4 ,lawr5ce's ,woman 9 ,engl&1 pp4 #bif1 #big47 ,probably ?is 0 ,roman "w4 #efd ,quot$ by ,mrs4 ,lawr5ce1 ,woman 9 ,engl&1 p4 #di1 f "o ( ,adhelme's ,lat9 poems4 ,adhelme1 ,bi%op ( ,%]borne1 di$ 9 #gji1 hav+ be5 ?irty ye>s a bi%op4 ,he wrote ,lat9 poems1 ( :i* ! mo/ important1 9 praise ( virg9ity1 is 9 ! ,lambe? ,libr>y1 ,no4 #bjj4 ,! ,,ms4 conta9s 8 portrait4 ,see ,/rutt's ,engli% ,dresses1 ed4 ,plan*4 #efe ,an ,anglo-,saxon lady nam$ ,a$els)a1 liv+ ne> ,:itby1 9 ! six? c5tury1 collect$ a numb] ( girls & taught !m to produce admirable embroid]ies = ! b5efit ( ! mona/]y4 7,see ,rock's ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 p4 #bgc2 also 8 ,introduction to ,textiles1 p4 xxvii47 ,bock speaks ( ,hro?g>'s tape/ries1 embroid]$ ) gold1 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,see ,app5dix #h4 ,b ! e>lie/ ,engli% tape/ry ,i h se5 is t 9 ,york ,m9/]1 9 :i* are inwov5 ! arms ( ,scrope1 #acij4 ,wright says ( ! ,anglo-,saxon wom51 ,9 _! *amb]1 besides sp9n+ & weav+1 ! ladies 7 employ$ 9 ne$lework & embroid]y1 & ! ,saxon ladies 7 s skilful 9 ?is art1 t _! works 7 celebrat$ on ! ,cont95t4--,hi/ory ( ,mann]s 9 ,engl& dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 by ,?omas ,wright1 p4 #eb4 #eff ,see ,mrs4 ,lawr5ce's ,woman 9 ,engl&1 i4 p4 #bif-g4 #efg ,see ,rock's ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 ii4 p4 #bgb1 quot+ ,?4 ,/ubbs4 ,acta ,pontif4 ,?4 ed4 ,twysd51 #a4 ii4 p4 #afii2 also ,bock's ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 p4 #bab1 & p4 #cbe ante4 #efh ,app5dix #i4 #efi ,?is c\ld h>dly h be5 int5d$ orig9ally = an ecclesia/ical purpose4 ,x s\nds z if x 7 a /ray fragm5t f ,grco-,roman art1 r ?an a survival ( ! classical leg5d employ$ z a pretty motive = decoration4 ,wiglaf's veil is nam$ by ,+ulphus4 ,see ,/rutt's ,engli% ,dresses1 pp4 #c1 #g4 ,see also ,hi/oria ,eli5sis1 l4 #b1 ed4 ,/ew>t1 p4 #ahc4 #egj ,see ,rock's ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 xxi42 also = ,c\ncil ( ,clove%oe1 see 8 ,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs1 p4 #ad4 #ega ,! ,b5$ict9es dra9$ ! m>%es ( ,l9coln%ire & ,som]set%ire to employ ! poor 9 ! eigh? c5tury4 ,/4 ,b5net travell$ to ,france & ,italy1 & br\ght back f 8 sev5 j\rneys cunn+ artific]s 9 glass & /one1 besides co/ly books & copies ( ! ,scriptures1 9 ord] 7z is expressly said by ,b$e7 t ! ignorant might le>n f !m1 z o!rs le>n$ f books4 ,see ,mrs4 ,jameson's ,leg5ds ( ! ,mona/ic ,ord]s1 pp4 #ef1 #eg4 #egb ,see ,ra9e's ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 pp4 #ej-bji4 ,mr4 ,ra9e describes x z be+ ( wov5 gold1 ) spaces left vacant = ne$lework embroid]y4 ,beautifully drawn maje/ic figures /& 9 ni*es on ra9b[-col\r$ cl\ds1 & ! effect is t ( an illum9ation ( ! n9? c5tury4 ,! /yle is r ,greek or ,byzant9e ?an ,anglo-,saxon4 ,= fur!r notices ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t's relics1 see *apt] on ,mat]ials1 ante2 also see ,rock's ,introduction1 p4 cxvii4 #egc ,app5dix #aj4 #egd ,see ,cal5d> ( ! ,anglican ,*ur*1 by ,j4 ,h4 ,p>k] 7#ahea73 ,/4 ,dun/an 0 n only a patron ( ! useful & f9e arts1 b also a great pr(ici5t 9 !m himself2 & 8 almo/ contempor>y biograph]s speak ( him z a poet1 pa9t]1 & musician1 & s skill$ a work] 9 metals t he made _m ( ! *ur* vessels 9 use at ,gla/onbury4 #ege ,see ,rock's ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 p4 #bgj4 #egf ,/rutt's ,engli% ,dresses1 p4 #gj1 quot$ f ,+ulphus' ,hi/ory ( ,croyl& ,abbey4 #egg ,%ot1 or iridesc5t mat]ials1 7 !n & _h be5 "s "t manufactur$ at ,t9nis 9 ,egypt1 a city n[ effac$4 ,x 0 call$ b\qualem\n1 & employ$ = dresses & hang+s = ! ,khalifs4 ,see ,s*ef]'s ,relations du ,voyage de ,nassiri ,khosrau1 p4 cxi4 ,! orig9al 0 writt5 9 ! middle ( ! elev5? c5tury4 #egh ,see ,du*sne's ,hi/ori ,normanorum4 ,fol4 ,p>is1 #aeai4 #egi ,que5 ,matilda 0 n ! orig9ator ( ! idea t a h]o's de$s might be record$ by 8 wife's ne$le4 ,p5elope wove ! de$s ( ,ulysses on h] loom1 & x is sugge/$ by ,ari/>*us t h] peplos s]v$ z an hi/orical docum5t = ,hom]'s ,iliad4 ,see ,rossignol's ,les ,arti/es ,homriques1 pp4 #gb1 #gc1 cit$ by ,l\is de ,ron*aud 9 8 ,la ,tapiss]ie1 p4 #cb4 ,gudrun1 l ! ,hom]ic woman1 embroid]$ ! hi/ory ( ,siegfri$ & 8 ance/ors1 & ,aelfl$ t ( ! a*ievem5ts ( h] husb&1 ,duke ,bri?nod4 ,! ,saga ( ,*>lemagne is said to h be5 embroid]$ on tw5ty-six ells ( l951 & hung 9 a *ur* 9 ,icel&4 #ehj ,domesday ed4 ,record ,commission1 "u head ( ,rob]te de ,oilgi1 9 co4 ,buck+ham4 ,see also ano!r entry "u ,wilts1 :]e ,leiv$e is spok5 ( z work+ auriphrigium = ,k+ ,edw>d & 8 ,que54 #eha ,canon ,jackson1 writ+ ( embroid]y1 says3 ,t ?is 0 c>$ = 9 ! great mona/]ies at ?is e>ly date appe>s f a ,,ms4 regi/] ( ,gla/onbury ,abbey 9 ! possession ( ! ,m>quis ( ,ba?4 ,x is call$ ! ,lib] ,h5rici de ,soliaco1 & gives an acc\nt ( ! affairs ( t abbey 9 ,a4,d4 #aahi 7,ri*>d ,i474 ,!re 0 a special (ficial ^: bus9ess x 0 to provide ! mona/]y ) *ur* ornam5ts g5]ally1 & specially ) aurifrigium1 or gold embroid]y1 on ve/m5ts4 ,= ?is a h\se & l&1 ) an annual all[ance ( food1 0 set ap>t4 ,ano!r t5ant also held "s l&1 to :i* 0 atta*$ ! obligation to f9d a work] 9 gold4--,lett] f ,canon ,jackson to ! ,au?or4 #ehb ,see ,mrs4 ,lawr5ce's ,woman 9 ,engl&1 vol4 i4 p4 #cfj4 ,%e quotes an entry f ,madox1 a sum ( #hj 7equal to #adjj ( to-day7 = an embroid]$ robe = ! ,que51 paid by ! ,%]iffs ( ,london4 #ehc ,mat!w ,p>is1 ,vit4 ,abb4 ,/4 ,albani4 p4 #df2 ,rock1 ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 vol ii4 p4 #bgh4 #ehd ,see ,mrs4 ,dolby's ,introduction to ,*ur* ,ve/m5ts4 #ehe ,/rutt's ,royal & ,ecclesia/ical ,antiquities ( ,engl&1 ed4 mdcclxxiii4 #ehf ,?\gh ! "w 0 dome/ic1 ! mat]ials came f ! ,ea/ & ! ,s\?2 & :ile ! wov5 gold ( ,sicily & ,spa9 0 m]ely base metal on gild$ p>*m5t1 our laws 7 direct$ to ! pres]vation ( pure metals = textile purposes4 #ehg ,mat!w ,p>is1 ,hi/4 ,angl41 p4 #dgc1 ed4 ,p>is1 #afdd4 ,see ,h>t%orne's ,m$ival ,embroid]ies1 pp4 #bc1 #bd4 #ehh ,! reproduction by ! ,arundel ,society ( ?is picture w famili>ize ^? :o c>e = ,engli% art ) :at is1 p]haps1 its f9e/ example1 next to ! crosses ( ,que5 ,eleanor4 ,x has be5 errone\sly attribut$ to ,van ,eyk1 b x is und\bt$ly ,engli%4 ,t its art is contempor>y ) ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 is %[n by ! design & motives ( ! wov5 mat]ials & embroid]y 9 :i* ! k+ & 8 att5dant sa9ts are clo!d4 ,!y rem9d u ( ! piece ( silk 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 into :i* are wov5 7probably 9 ,sicilian looms7 ! cognizance ( ! ,k+'s gr&fa!r1 ! sun ) rays2 t ( 8 "m ,joan1 ! :ite h>t2 & 8 own1 8 dog ,ma?4 ,?is is a good example ( ! value ( an individual patt]n4 ,x helps u to affix dates to o!r specim5s ( simil> /yle4 #ehi ,see ,miss ,/rickl&'s m5tion ( ! ,c\ntess ( ,ox=d 9 h] ,life ( ,que5 ,elizabe? ( ,york1 p4 #df4 #eij ,f ! fragm5ts f\nd1 x appe>$ t ,k+ ,john's mantle 0 ( a /rong r$ silk4 ,till lately1 :5 x 0 effac$ by be+ completely gilt1 ! mantle on ! recumb5t effigy 0 ( a bright r$1 bord]$ ) gold & gems4 ,see ,gre5e's ,worce/]1 p4 #c1 quot$ 9 ! ,report ( ! ,ar*ological ,association ( ,worce/]1 p4 #ec4 #eia ,notice sur les ,atta*es d'un ,sceau1 p> ,m4 ,lopold ,delisle 7,p>is1 #ahed72 & also ,rock's ,introduction to ,textile ,fabrics1 p4 xxii4 #eib ,! opus ,anglicanum (t5 includ$ bord]s & orphreys set ) jewell]s' "w 7or its imitation1 work$ 9 gold ?read71 gems1 & pe>ls4 #eic ,edw>d ,,iii4 _h f ,william de ,c\rt5ay an embroid]$ g>m5t1 inwr\ght ) pelicans1 images1 & tab]nacles ( gold4 ,! tab]nacles 7 l ni*es1 ) p9nacles & ro(s4 #eid ,bock1 ,liturgis*e ,gewnd]1 i4 p4 #baa1 says !re is a piece ( opus ,anglicanum 9 ! treasury ( ,aix-la-,*apelle1 call$ ! ,cope ( ,leo ,,iii4 #eie ,= fur!r notice ( ! opus ,anglicanum1 see *apt] 7ante7 on ecclesia/ical embroid]ies4 #eif ,app5dix #aa4 #eig ,! orphreys are probably n ! orig9al "w4 #eih ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 ed4 ,ni*olas1 t4 i4 p4 #cc4 #eii ,wool/rope1 ,l9coln%ire4 ,colli]'s ,ecclesia/ical ,hi/ory ( ,great ,brita91 v4 p4 #c 7ed4 ,lo?bury74 ,?is proves t ! monks sometimes pli$ ! ne$le4 #fjj ,see ,hall's ,union ( ! ,h\ses ( ,york & ,lanca/]1 pp4 lxxv-lxxxiii4 #fja ,see ,brew]'s ,reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 vol4 i4 pp4 #cdg-cgf4 #fjb ,9 ! ,public ,record ,(fice is an inv5tory ( ,"l ,monteagle's prop]ty1 #aebc ,a4,d42 among/ o!r ?+s1 is nam$ a piece ( ,spani% "w1 eight p>tletts g>ni%$ ) gold & black silk "w4 ,?is ,spani% "w is r>e1 b ! description rem9ds u ( a specim5 belong+ to ,l\isa1 ,m>*ioness ( ,wat]=d 7,plate #hb7--;a squ>e ( l951 work$ ) o/ri*es1 turkeys1 & eagles 9 gold & black silk /it*es4 ,see ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,hi/ory ( ,lace1 pp4 #f1 #ab4 #fjc ,quot$ f ,cav5di% by ,miss ,/rickl&1 ,que5s ( ,engl&1 iv4 p4 #acb4 #fjd ,! invalid que51 9 h] mom5ts ( convalesc5ce1 soo!d h] c>es & mis]ies at ! embroid]y frame4 ,_m specim5s ( h] ne$lework 7 extant 9 ! reign ( ,james ,i41 & are ?us celebrat$ by ,taylor1 ! poet ( ! ne$le3-- ',m>y "h ! sceptre sway'd2 ,& ?\gh %e 7 no que5 ( mighty p[]1 ,h] memory w nev] be decay'd1 ,nor yet h] works =gott54 ,9 ! ,t[]1 ,9 ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 & 9 ,hampton ,c\rt1-- ,9 t mo/ pomp\s room call$ ,p>adise1-- ,:oev] pleases ?i!r to resort1 ,may see "s works ( h]s ( wondr\s price4 ,h] greatness held x no disreputation ,to hold ! ne$le 9 h] royal h&1 ,:i* 0 a good example to our nation ,to bani% idl5ess ?r\gh\t ! l&4 ,& ?us ?is que5 9 wisdom ?\ght x fit2 ,! ne$le's "w pleas$ h]1 & %e grac$ x4' ,accord+ to ,taylor1 ,m>y f9i%$ ! spl5did & elaborate tape/ry begun by h] "m4--,miss ,/rickl&'s ,life ( ,m>y ,tudor1 v4 p4 #dag4 #fje ,aft] ! action at ,d',arbre de ,guise1 ,elizabe? 7( ,engl&7 s5t to ,h5ri ,,iv4 a sc>f embroid]$ by h] own h&4 ',monsieur mon bon frre1' wrote ! que51 'its value is naught 9 comp>ison to ! dignity ( ! p]sonage = :om x is de/9$2 b ,i supplicate y to hide its defects "u ! w+s ( y\r good *>ity1 & to accept my little pres5t 9 remembrance ( me4'--,h5ri ,,iv41 by ,miss ,fre]1 p4 #caa4 #fjf ,9 ! ye> #afhc ! ,m>*ese ,luca ,casimi]o degl' ,albizzi visit$ ,engl&1 & 8 travels 7 record$ 9 manuscript by ,dr4 ,a4 ,=zoni4 ,at ,w9dsor he obs]v$ ov] a *imney-piece a f9ely wr\ght piece ( embroid]y--un educazione di fanciulli--by ! h&s ( ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots4--,l(tie's ,hi/ory ( ,old ,london2 also article on ,royal ,picture ,gall]ies1 by ,george ,s*>f1 p4 #cfa 7#ahfg74 #fjg ,! ,company ( ! ,embroid]]s c make appe> by _! wor?y & fam\s pieces ( art t !y h be5 ( anci5t use & em95ce1 z is to be se5 9 div]s places at ?is day2 b 9 ! matt] ( _! incorporation1 x ha? relation to ! f\r? ye> ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4--,/['s ,survey ( ,london & ,we/m9/]1 "p ii4 p4 #baf2 also see ,edmonson's ,h]aldry1 vol4 i4 7#aghj74 ,! ,keep]s1 ,w>d5s1 & ,company ( ! ,broid]ie ( ,london4444 #b keep]s & #dj assi/ants1 & ! liv]y consi/s ( #aae memb]s4 ,!y h a small b conv5i5t hall 9 ,gutt] ,lane4--,maitl&'s ,hi/ory ( ,london1 book iii4 p4 #fjb4 #fjh ,! fa%ion ( ?is "w began mu* e>li]1 = we f9d 9 ! inv5tory ( ,/4 ,james's ,h\se1 nigh ,we/m9/]1 #aedi3 #db ,item4 ,a table :]e9 is a man hold+ a sword 9 8 "o h& & a sceptre 9 8 o!r h& ( ne$lework1 p>tly g>ni%$ ) se$ pe>l 7p4 #cjg74 #fji ,! m]it or blame ( ?is r\nd$ padd$ "w 7a c>icature ( ! rais$ embroid]y ( ! opus ,anglicanum7 is (t5 errone\sly aw>d$ to ! nuns ( ,little ,gidd+4 ,! e>lie/ specim5s we "k ( ?is embroid]y on ! /amp are ,g]man4 ,at ,coire 9 ! ,grisons1 at ,zuri* 7see *apt] on ecclesia/ical art71 & 9 ! ,national ,museum at ,muni* are "s v beautiful examples4 ,! ,italians also execut$ elaborate little pictures 9 ?is mann]2 b ,i _c praise x h[ev] ref9$ 9 execution or beautiful ! design4 ,i h se5 no ,engli% specim5s t are n b5ea? criticism2 !y are only funny4 #faj ,9 ! ,cal5d> ( ! ,/ate ,pap]s ,(fice 7,dome/ic1 ,*>les ,i41 vol4 clxix4 p4 #ab71 ,mrs4 ,h4 ,s5ior sues ! ,e>l ( ,?omond = #bjj p] annum1 h] pay = tea*+ 8 daught] ne$lework4 ,mrs4 ,hut*9son1 9 h] ,memoir1 says %e _h eight tutors :5 %e 0 sev5 ye>s old1 & "o ( !m taught h] ne$lework4 ,?is %[s h[ highly ?is accompli%m5t 0 /ill consid]$ 9 ! days ( ,*>les ,i4 & ! ,commonweal?4 ,lat]1 ,evelyn speaks ( ! new b$ ( ,*>les ,,ii4's que51 ! embroid]y ( :i* co/ #cjjj 7,evelyn's ,memoirs1 ,janu>y #bd1 #afhg74 ,evelyn says ( 8 own daught] ,susanna1 :o m>ri$ ,william ,drap]3 ,%e _h a peculi> tal5t 9 designe1 z pa9t+ 9 oil & m9iature1 & an extraord9>y g5ius = :atev] h&s c d ) a ne$le4 ,see ,evelyn's ,memoirs1 ,april #bg1 #afic2 also see ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,hi/ory ( ,lace1 pp4 #g1 #h4 #faa ,! tree-patt]n1 already common 9 ! latt] days ( ,elizabe?1 reappe>$ on a dress worn by ! ,du*ess ( ,que5sb]ry1 & describ$ by ,mrs4 ,delany2 %e says1 ,a :ite sat9 embroid]$ at ! bottom ) br[n hills1 cov]$ ) all sorts ( we$s1 & ) a br[n /ump1 brok5 & work$ 9 *5ille1 & g>l&$ na/urtiums1 honeysuckles1 p]iw9kles1 convolvuluses1 & we$s1 _m ( ! leaves f9i%$ ) gold4 ,mrs4 ,delany does n appreciate ?is anci5t patt]n4 #fab ,que5 ,m>y only knott$ fr+es4 ,bi%op ,burnett says3 ,x 0 /range to see a que5 "w s _m h\rs a day4 ,sir ,e4 ,s$ley1 9 8 epigram on ! ,royal ,knott]1 says1-- ,:o1 :5 %e rides 9 coa* abroad1 ,is always knott+ ?reads4 ,probably x 0 ! fa%ion1 z ,madame de ,ma9t5on always work$ dur+ h] drives ) ! k+1 :i* d\btless prev5t$ h] dy+ ( ennui6 #fac ,i quote f ! ,spectator1 ,no4 #fjf3 ,let no virg9 receive h] lov]1 except 9 a suit ( h] own embroid]y4 #fad ,h] /yle 0 really legitimate to ! art4 ,x 0 fl[]-pa9t+ ) ! ne$le4 ,miss ,moritt copi$ bo? figures & l&scapes1 ) wond]ful ta/e & k ( draw+4 ,miss ,l9wood's & ,mrs4 ,delany's productions are ju/ly celebrat$ z t\rs de =ce1 b !y caus$ ! d[nfall ( ! art by lead+ x on ! wrong track4 #fae ,"l ,h\ghton alludes to ,h4,r4,h4's patronage ( ! revival ( embroid]y 9 8 p>aphrase ( ! ,/ory ( ,ara*ne1 p4 #bch1 ante4 #faf ,oppos$ to ! 'utility /it*es' are ! art ne$lework s*ools t h bran*$ out 9 _m directions f ,new ,york4444 ,! impulse t l$ to _! =mation 0 d]iv$ f ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,engl&71 & af=ds a /rik+ in/ance ( ! ramifications ( an organization4--,atlantic ,mon?ly 7,wom5 9 ,organization71 ,sept41 #ahhj4 ,,f9is4 ,,app5dices4 ,,app5dix ,i41 ,,to ,,page #aje4 ,by ,*4 ,t4 ,newton4 ,?\gh ! embroid]$ & ri*ly decorat$ textile fabrics ( ! anci5ts h p]i%$1 all b a few scraps1 we may =m "s idea ( ! ri*ness & v>iety ( ,greek female attire f ! evid5ce ( ! inv5tories ( d$icat$ articles ( dress :i* h be5 pres]v$ = u 9 ,greek inscriptions4 ,9 ! ,acropolis at ,a!ns h be5 f\nd a numb] ( fragm5ts ( m>ble on :i* are inscrib$ li/s ( v>i\s female g>m5ts d$icat$1 = ! mo/ "p1 9 ! ,temple ( ,artemis ,brauronia1 9 ! ,ar*on%ip ( ,lykurgos1 ,b4,c4 #cch-ce4 ,^! articles 7 ?us c>efully regi/]$ because !y =m$ "p ( ! treasures d$icat$ to ! gods ( ! ,acropolis1 :i* x 0 ! duty ( ! /ate to gu>d1 & to commit to ! cu/ody ( (fic]s specially select$ = t duty4 ,"o ( ^! fragm5ts is 9 ! ,elg9 ,collection at ! ,briti% ,museum1 & has be5 publi%$ by ,mr4 ,hicks 9 ! ,collection ( ,anci5t ,greek ,inscriptions 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ,"p #a1 ,no #cd2 & ! entire s]ies has s9ce be5 giv5 to ! _w 9 ! ,corpus ,inscriptionum ,attic>um ( ! ,academy ( ,b]l91 ii41 ,"p #b41 ,nos4 #gea-fe4 ,! mat]ial ( ^! g>m5ts seems to h be5 ei!r l95 or f9e wooll52 ! col\rs :ite1 purple1 or "s %ade ( r$1 mo/ly us$ z a bord] or 9 /ripes2 or a %ade ( gre51 ! t9t ( :i* is describ$ z frog col\r1 saffron1 or sea-gre54 ,! bord]s & patt]ns not$ rem9d u ( ^? repres5t$ on ! g>m5ts ( figures 9 vase pictures1 su* z ! embattl$ bord]1 ! wave patt]n1 & c]ta9 patt]ns 9 rectangul> comp>tm5ts4 ,a gr\p ( ,dionysos p\r+ out a libation :ile a female s]ves him ) w9e1 & a r[ ( animals1 are also not$ among ! ornam5ts4 ,! inscription1 ,sacr$ to ,artemis1 wov5 into ! fabric ( ! g>m5t1 occurs twice4 ,gold1 z an ornam5t fix$ on ! dress1 is m5tion$ 9 ^! entries4 ,x is not$ t "s ( ^! dresses s]v$ to deck ! /atue ( ! goddess h]self4 ,mo/ ( ! g>m5ts are ! *iton or tunic1 fl[+ to ! feet2 ! *itoniskos1 a %ort] & m ornam5tal g>m5t worn ov] x2 & ! mantle1 himation4 ,pieces ( clo? or rags are also m5tion$ among ! entries2 ^! 7 probably ! remnants ( ca/-(f g>m5ts d$icat$ by _! we>]s4 ,"s ( ! dresses are describ$ z embroid]$ ) ! ne$le4 ,9 ! wor%ip ( ! ,artemis ,brauronia1 c]ta9 ,a!nian girls betwe5 ! ages ( five & t5 7 solemnly d$icat$ to ! goddess e five ye>s4 ,9 publi%+ ! inv5tory 9 ! ,briti% ,museum already ref]r$ to1 ,mr4 ,hicks rem>ks1 ,x may h be5 ! cu/om sometimes to d$icate to ! goddess ! g>m5ts worn by *ildr5 at _! pres5tation1 j z we "k t ! g>m5ts 9 :i* p]sons _h be5 initiat$ at ! ,great] ,eleus9ia 7 worn by !m until ?readb>e1 & !n d$icat$ to "s god4 ,if s1 ! numb] ( *ildr5's clo!s m5tion$ 9 our inv5tory is easily expla9$4 ,or 7 ^! ! clo!s ( *ildr5 cut (f by ,artemis 9 infancy1 su* z b]eav$ mo!rs n[adays (t5 treasure = ye>s1 hav+ no temple :]e9 to d$icate !m8 ,mr4 ,hicks fur!r rem>ks t x 0 usual = ! bride be=e m>riage to d$icate h] girdle to ,artemis2 & at ,a!ns ! g>m5ts ( wom5 :o di$ 9 *ildbir? 7 likewise 9 l mann] s d$icat$4 ,x is probably on acc\nt ( su* d$ications t ,artemis 0 /yl$ ,*iton--! goddess ( ! *iton4 ,ano!r li/ ( ve/m5ts is pres]v$ 9 an inscription f\nd at ,samos1 & publi%$ by ,c>l ,curtius 9 8 ,ins*rift5 u4 ,/udi5 zur ,ges*i*te von ,samos1 pp4 #ag-ba4 ,! g>m5ts 9 ?is li/ 7 d$icat$ to ! goddess ,h] 7,juno7 9 h] celebrat$ temple at ,samos4 ,! entries relate *iefly to articles ( female attire1 b "s few are d$icat$ to ! god ,h]mes4 ,"s ( ^! articles 7 d\btless worn by ! deities !mselves on fe/ive occasions1 :5 _! /atues 7 deck$ out4 ,! toilet1 kosmos1 ( goddesses 0 sup]9t5d$ by a prie/ess specially *os5 = t purpose4 ,%e 0 call$ kosmeteira1 or ,mi/ress ( ! ,robes4 ,9 ! ,samian li/ ( g>m5ts1 ^? :i* are embroid]$ or ornam5t$ ) gold are specially not$4 ,"s ( ! tunics are describ$ z ,lydian4 ,curta9s or hang+s are also m5tion$ 9 ?is li/4 ,^! mu/ h be5 us$ to ornam5t ! int]ior ( ! temple1 or to scre5 (f ! /atue ( ! goddess on ! days :5 %e 0 )drawn f ! gaze ( ! pr(ane4 ,su* hang+s 71 probably1 a ma9 cause ( ! conflagrations by :i* ,greek temples 7 f "t to "t de/roy$ 9 spite ( ! solidity ( _! walls4 ,,app5dix ,,ii41 ,,to ,,page #baj4 ,9 ! ,ca/le ( ,moritzburg1 built by ,augu/us ! ,/rong1 ,elector ( ,saxony & ,k+ ( ,pol&1 is a qua9t ap>tm5t1 on ! walls ( :i* are hung rugs ( fea!r-"w1 ( :i* ! bord]s are adorn$ ) set patt]ns ( fruit & fl[]s1 & ! col\r+ is z s(t z a ,gobel9s tape/ry4 ,! fea!rs are wov5 tightly into ! w>p1 9 ! same mann] z ! tufts are set 9 a velvety c>pet2 =m+ a surface z delicate z silk to ! t\*4 ,!re are f\r high-back$ *airs cov]$ ) ! same "w 9 small] patt]ns4 ,b :at is especially rem>kable is an imm5se canopy1 l t ( a /ate b$1 ) urn-%ap$ ornam5ts ( /iff fea!rs at ! corn]s2 & a pretty bell-%ap$ fr+e ( sc>let fea!rs4 ,! same ornam5t edg$ a l>ge rug l ^? on ! wall1 ?r[n ov] :at at fir/ appe>$ to be a b$2 b on exam9ation x 0 f\nd to be a r\gh wood5 plat=m1 said to be ! ?rone ( ,montezuma4 ,! /ory is t ,augu/us ! ,/rong w5t to ,spa9 incognito at ! age ( eighte51 9 se>* ( adv5tures1 & di/+ui%$ himself at a bull-fight4 ,:5 ! k+ 7,*>les ,,ii47 he>d ! "n ( ! "y h]o1 he gave him a hospitable reception1 & aft]w>ds s5t ^! ,mexican treasures to him z a tok5 ( fri5d%ip4 ,,app5dix ,,iii41 ,,to ,,page #bcg4 ,/ory ( ,ara*ne1 abridg$ by ,e>l ,c[p] f ,ovid's ,metamorphoses4 ,ara*ne's tale ( grief is full3 ,h] fa!r 0 ( l[ degree2 ,no ?\ght beyond 8 crimson'd wool1 ,8 daught] & 8 wife _h he4 ,! wife _h fill'd an e>ly tomb1 ,! daught] liv$--& all ! l& ,( ,lydia boa/$ ( h] loom1 ,h] ne$le1 & h] dext]\s h&4 ,to wat* h] task ! nymphs repair ,f fair ,timolus' v9e-clad hill2 ,!y deem ! "w div9ely fair1 ,! maid :5 work+ fair] /ill4 ,! s(tness ( ! fleecy ball1 ,by skilful f+]s taught to fl[ ,9 l5g!n+ l9es--!y wat*'d x all-- ,& r\nd & r\nd ! sp9dle g4 ,wond]+1 !y view ! ri* design3 ,ah1 luckless gift6 ah1 fooli% pride6 ',twas ,pallas taught ! art div9e1 ,b ?is ! haughty maid d5i$4 ,me taught1 %e cri$1 by ,pallas6 ,me ,by ,pallas6 ,let ! goddess fir/ ,accept my *all5ge4 ,!n1 %\ld %e ,surpass me1 let h] d h] wor/4 ,va91 impi\s words6 ,! goddess came ,9 lik5ess ( an anci5t crone1 ,) grizzl$ locks & tott]+ frame1 ,& spoke ) w>n+ 9 h] tone4 ,?\gh mat*less 9 ?9e art1 %e cri$1 ,?\gh fir/ ( mortals1 tempt n fate4 ,age makes me wise4 ,?\ ha/ defi$ ,a goddess4 ,x is n too late4 ,! unhappy maid1 ) madness bl9d1 ,repli$1 & sc>ce re/ra9'd ! bl[4 ',tis pla91 old woman1 t y\r m9d ,is drivell+ to address me s4 ,"s daught] or "s slave may want ,y\r c\nsel4 ,let h] b appe>1 ,?is mighty ,pallas :om y vaunt6 ,! goddess answ]'d1 ,%e is "h4 ,%e spoke1 & lo6 t anci5t crone ,0 "y & fair1 & tall & pr\d3 --,! nymphs fell pro/rate4 ,%e alone-- ,ara*ne--nei!r %rank nor b['d4 ,"o blu% quick came & pass'd away1 ,hov]+ z cl\ds1 :5 night is done1 ,gr[ rosy at ! dawn ( day1 ,!n :it5 ) ! ris+ sun4 ,%e did n %r9k--%e did n pause-- ,b headlong to de/ruction ran2 ,& ?us ! /rife orda9'd to cause ,su* d>k calamity began4 ,ea* = ! conte/ takes h] /&-- ,! goddess "h1 ! mortal !re-- ,& ea* proce$s ) skilful h& ,! means ( victory to prep>e4 ,! beam ea* loom supports full well1 ,& to ! loom ! w>p is ti$2 ,nor w ,i n[ =get to tell ,! re$ t do? ! w>p divide4 ,! wo( ! %uttle 9 do? br+1 ,! nimble f+]s guide its way2 ,& /ill f ei!r "w-frame r+ ,! bl[s inflict$ by ! slay4 ,ea* to h] bosom b9ds h] ve/3 ,! arms ( ea*1 quick mov+1 feel ,no s5se ( toil1 no ne$ ( re/1 ,= we>9ess is qu5*'d by zeal4 ,& all ! gorge\s t9ts ( ,tyre ,9 v>y+ %ades are m+l$ !re2 ,& e hue ! sun's bright fire ,c k9dle 9 ! %[]y air1-- ,:5 ! wide ra9b[ spans ! sky2 ,! b[ ^: col\rs1 9 ! end ,s diff]5t1 yet s l :5 nigh1 ,9 h>mony's own concord bl5d1-- ,& preci\s ?reads ( glitt]+ gold ,enri* ! gr[+ web4 ,b say6 ,:at anci5t tale by ea* 0 told8 ,:at leg5d ( an e>li] day8 ,pallas h] well-kn[n triumph drew2 ,! gods assembl$ 9 _! =ce1 ,& ,neptune ) 8 trid5t1 too1 ,exult+ 9 ! fi]y horse1-- ,:i* f ! rock he made to b\nd3 ,b %e h]self1 m deeply wise1 ,a great] bless+ f ! gr\nd ,! olive br\ght1 & ga9'd ! prize4 ,! bord] ( ?is ma9 design ,) ,rhodope's sad tale 0 set2 ,& all :o d>$ ! gods div9e ,to rival--& ! fate !y met4 ,mean:ile ,ara*ne wove ! wool3 ,! web ) _m a picture %one4 ,%e drew ,europa ) h] bull1 ,& ,l$a ) h] sn[-:ite swan4 ,deois ) h] snake display'd1 ,& ,dane ) h] %[] ( gold2 ,& _m a tale besides ! maid1 ,_h fate p]mitt$1 w\ld h told4 ,b ! dread goddess n[ no m ,to *eck h] ris+ envy /rove2 ,! half-complet$ task %e tore1 ,& all ! pictur$ crimes ( ,jove4 ,! %uttle ?rice ! air did r5d1 ,?rice did ! heav5-direct$ bl[ ,full on ,ara*ne's head desc5d1 ,& made h] purple blood to fl[4 ,ara*ne's s\l 0 pr\d & high3 ,%e drew a cruel cord ar\nd ,h] t5d] neck--&1 driv5 to die1 ,0 f a beam susp5d$ f\nd4 ,h] dea? ! unpity+ goddess /ay'd2 ,h5ce=?1 va9 fool6 = su* a crime ,= ev] %all ?\ hang1 %e said2 ,a w>n+ to ! end ( "t4 ,9 scorn %e spoke1 & ov] all ,h] rival's face & =m %e sme>'d ,a deadly drug4 ,! head grew small1 ,& ea* fair feature disappe>'d4 ,& (f ! beaute\s tresses fell2 ,! t5d] wai/ t 0 s slim1 ,9 loa?ly sort 0 se5 to swell1 ,%rivell'd & %rank ea* comely limb4 ,! spid]'s f+]s /ill rema9 ,to sp9 = ev]4--,we may vie ,) fell[ mortals1 b 'tis va9 ,to /ruggle ) ! gods on high4 ,janu>y1 #ahhe4 ,,c[p]4 ,,app5dix ,,iv41 ,,to ,,page #cah4 ,extract f ,hi/ory ( ,*ri/ian ,art4 ,by ,"l ,l9dsay4 ,vol4 i4 pp4 #acf-aci4 ,b p]haps ! noble/ te/imony to ! revival "u ! ,comn5i is af=d$ by ! designs on ! ,dalmatic or sac]dotal robe1 commonly /yl$ ',di ,papa ,san ,leone1' pres]v$ 9 ! sacri/y ( ,/4 ,pet]'s--said to h be5 embroid]$ at ,con/ant9ople = ! coronation ( ,*>lemagne z ,emp]or ( ! ,we/1 b fix$ by ,g]man criticism z a production ( ! twelf?1 or ! e>ly "p ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! ,emp]ors wore x ev] aft]1 :5 s]v+ z deacons at ! ,pope's alt> dur+ _! coronation-mass4 ,y w ?9k little ( x at fir/ sight1 & lay x aside z a piece ( d>n$ & fad$ tape/ry1 yet ,i w\ld /ake on x1 alone1 ! reputation ( ,byzant9e art4 ,& y mu/ recollect1 too1 t embroid]y is b a poor sub/itute = ! in=m+ h& & ! lightn+ /roke ( g5ius4 ,x is a l>ge robe ( /iff brocade1 fall+ 9 broad & unbrok5 folds 9 front & beh9d1--broad & deep en\gh = ! ,golia?-l /ature & ! ,h]culean *e/ ( ,*>lemagne himself4 ,on ! brea/1 ! ,savi\r is repres5t$ 9 glory1 on ! back ! ,transfiguration1 & on ! two %\ld]s ,*ri/ adm9i/]+ ! ,eu*>i/ to ! ,apo/les4 ,! composition on ! brea/ is an amplification ( ,no4 ,v4 7z above enum]at$7 ( ! ,p]sonal traditional compositions4--,9 ! c5tre ( a gold5 circle ( glory1 ',jesus ,*ri/1 ! ,resurrection & ! ,life1' rob$ 9 :ite1 ) ! y\?ful & be>dless face1 8 eyes directly look+ into y\rs1 sits ^u ! ra9b[1 8 feet re/+ on ! w+$ :eels#fag ( ,ezekiel1 8 left h& hold+ an op5 book1 inscrib$ ) ! invitation1 ',come1 ye bless$ ( ,my ,fa!r1'--8 "r rais$ 9 b5$iction4 ,at ! f\r corn]s ( ! circul> glory1 re/+ on !m1 half )9 x1 half )\t1 float ! emblems ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s2 ! ,virg9 & ! ,bapti/ /& to ! "r & left ( our ,savi\r1 ! ,bapti/ )\t1 ! ,virg9 entirely )9 ! glory1 ! only figure t is s plac$2 %e is sweet 9 feature & graceful 9 attitude1 9 h] long :ite robe4 ,above ,our ,savi\r's head1 & f ! top ( ! gold5 circle1 rises ! ,cross1 ) ! cr[n ( ?orns susp5d$ ^u x1 ! spe> re/+ on "o side1 ! re$ ) ! sponge on ! o!r1 & ! sun & moon look+ d[n ^u x f ! sky4 ,! heav5ly ho/ & ! company ( ! bless$ =m a circle ( adoration ar\nd ?is c5tral glory2 angels occupy+ ! upp] "p1 emp]ors1 patri>*s1 monks & nuns ! l[]2 at ! extremity1 on ! left side1 appe>s ,m>y ,magdal51 9 h] p5it5ce--a ?9 emaciat$ figure1 imp]fectly clo!d1 & ) di%evell$ hair4 ,9 ! corn]s1 bel[ ?is gr& composition1 appe>1 to ! "r1 ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 hold+ ! cross1 & po9t+ upw>ds to ,our ,savi\r2 to ! left1 ,abraham seat$1 a *ild on 8 lap1 & re/+ 8 h& on ano!r by 8 side4 ,! backgr\nd & sc5e ( ! :ole composition is ( blue1 to repres5t heav51--/udd$ ) />s1 %ap$ l ! ,greek cross4 ,! ,transfiguration1 :i* corresponds to ?is subject on ! back ( ! robe1 is ! traditional composition1 only v>i$ by ! unusual %ape ( ! vesica piscis :i* encloses ,our ,savi\r4 ,! two compositions repres5t+ ! ,in/itution ( ! ,eu*>i/1 on ! %\ld]s1 are bett] execut$ & m orig9al4 ,9 ea* ( !m1 ,our ,savi\r1 a /iff b maje/ic figure1 /&s beh9d ! alt>1 on :i* are deposit$ a *alice & a pat5 or basket conta9+ cross$ waf]s4 ,he gives1 9 ! "o case1 ! cup to ,/4 ,paul1 9 ! o!r ! bread to ,/4 ,pet]1--!y d n kneel1 b b5d rev]5tly to receive x2 five o!r disciples await _! turn 9 ea* in/ance1--all are /&+4 ,i d n appreh5d y\r be+ disappo9t$ ) ! ',dalmatica di ,san ,leone1' or y\r diss5t+ f my conclusion1 t a ma/]1 a ,mi*ael ,angelo ,i might almo/ say1 !n fl\ri%$ at ,byzantium4 ,x 0 9 ?is ,dalmatic--!n seme all ov] ) pe>ls & glitt]+ 9 fre%ness--t ,cola di ,ri5zi rob$ himself ov] 8 arm\r 9 ! sacri/y ( ,/4 ,pet]'s1 & !nce asc5d$ to ! ,palace ( ! ,popes1 aft] ! mann] ( ! ,cs>s1 ) s\nd+ trumpets & 8 horsem5 foll[+ him--8 trun*eon 9 8 h& & 8 cr[n on 8 head--'t]ribile e fanta/ico1' z 8 biograph] describes him--to wait ^u ! legate4#fah ,,footnotes3 #fag ,9 ! ',manual ( ,dionysius1' rec5tly publi%$ by ,m4 ,didron 7p4 #ga1 c471 ^! w+$ :eels are int]pret$ z signify+ ! ord] ( angels commonly di/+ui%$ z ,?rones4 ,_! int]pretation z ! ,cov5ants ( ! ,law & ,gospel1 sanction$ by ,/4 ,gregory ! ,great 9 8 ,homilies1 is c]ta9ly m sublime & in/ructive4 #fah ,cit$ f ! orig9al life1 pr9t$ 9 ,muratori's ',antiquit4 ,ital4 ,m$ii vi1' tom4 viii41 by ,m4 ,sulpice ,boiss]e1 9 8 essay1 ',ueb] die ,kais]-,dalmatica1' c4 ,,app5dix ,v41 ,,to ,,page #cbj4 ,! ,hon4 & ,rev4 ,ignatius ,clif=d has p]mitt$ me to make extracts f 8 ,memor&a ( "s rem>kable ,specim5s ( ,anci5t ,*ur* ,embroid]y4 ,fir/ on 8 li/ is ! ,cope n[ 9 ! possession ( ,colonel ,butl] ,b[d51 ( ,pleas+ton1 ne> ,blackburn1 ,lanca%ire4 ,i give 8 acc\nt ( ! mutilat$ condition1 f :i* he has made 8 beautifully drawn re/oration4 ,=m]ly1 he says1 portions ( ?is cope1 "s made up into *asuble1 /ole1 maniple1 & "s scraps deta*$1 7 at ,m\nt ,/4 ,m>y's ,college1 ,sp9k ,hill1 ne> ,*e/]field1 ,d]by%ire4 ,! well-kn[n ar*itect1 ! late ,augu/us ,welby ,pug91 hav+ se5 !m 7or at lea/ ! *asuble71 wrote on ! #bj? ,april1 #ahdi1 to ! ,rector ( ! ,college1 ,i f\nd x to be ( ,engli% "w ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,i41 & h no hesitation 9 pron\nc+ x to be ! mo/ int]e/+ & beautiful specim5 ( *ur* embroid]y ,i h ev] se54 ,o!r portions ( ! cope _h be5 made up into an alt>-frontal1 & 7 9 ! possession ( ,h5ry ,b[d51 ,esq41 ( ,s\?gate ,h\se1 ,d]by%ire1 "s f\r or five miles f ! college4 ,! gr\nd is crimson velvet4 ,! designs are wr\ght 9 gold1 silv]1 silk1 & se$ pe>ls4 ,! silks are work$ 9 *a91 or r 9 split /it*4 ,x conta9s betwe5 sev5ty & eighty figures4 ,only two small fragm5ts rema9 ( ! quasi-hood4 ,9 ! orphrey are k+s1 que5s1 ar*bi%ops1 & bi%ops4 ,9 ! body ( ! cope are ! ,annunciation--,adoration ( ! ,magi--,our ,lady en?ron$ at ! "r ( h] ,div9e ,son4 ,l[e/ r[ ( s+le figures--,/4 ,simon1 ,/4 ,jude1 ,/4 ,james1 ,/4 ,?omas1 ,/4 ,&rew1 ,/4 ,pet]1 ,/4 ,paul1 ,/4 ,b>nabas1 ,/4 ,mat!w1 ,/4 ,philip1 ,/4 ,james1 ,/4 ,b>?olomew4 ,middle r[--,/4 ,edw>d ! ,confessor--a ,bi%op--,/4 ,m>g>et1 ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/1 ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 an ,ar*bi%op1 ,/4 ,edmund k+ & m>tyr4 ,top r[--,/4 ,lawr5ce1 ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal5e1 ,/4 ,m>?a 7or ,/4 ,hel5871 ,/4 ,/eph54 ,9 ! int]vals1 angels seat$ on fald/ool ?rones1 & be>+ />s2 also two pop9jays4 ,mr4 ,clif=d describes ! ,/eeple ,a/on ,cope4 ,! gr\nd is ( a ri*ly ribb$ fad$ silk4 ,! design work$ 9 gold & silks is enclos$ 9 quatrefoils ( oak & ivy4 ,! ,syon ,cope he ref]s to ,rock's ,textile ,fabrics4 ,see ,app5dix4 ,! ,dalmatic f ,anagni1 exhibit$ at ,rome 9 #ahgj1 he ?9ks is probably ,engli%4 ,! ,pluvial 9 ! ,basilica ( ,/4 ,john ,lat]an at ,rome1 he speaks ( z hav+ mu* ! appe>ance ( ! celebrat$ ,opus ,anglicanum4 ,he describes ! subjects embroid]$ on x ?us3 ,no bord] r\nd ! curv$ edge4 ,! orphrey is divid$ into tab]nacles conta9+ an ar*bi%op1 two bi%ops1 & ?ree k+s & que5s4 ,betwe5 ! tab]nacles are f\r angels1 ea* accompani$ by "o ( ! evangeli/ic symbols4 ,! body ( ! cope is cut into a mo/ elaborate sy/em ( tab]nacles1 ) a c5tre comp>tm5t ( a diff]5t =m = ! gr\p ( ! ,crucifixion4 ,! subjects are *iefly f ! life ( our ,"l & ! ,bless$ ,virg94 ,! small quasi-hood is embroid]$ ) two wyv]ns or griff9-l creatures4 ,! pelican & ! phnix are introduc$ ov] ! top c5tral gr\p ( ! en?ronem5t ( our ,lady4 ,mr4 ,clif=d gives ! hi/ory ( ! ,cope ( ,pius ,,ii4 7,b>tolomeo ,piccolom9i1 neas ,silvius7 fifte5? c5tury4 ,x is a ma/]piece ( ,italian embroid]y ( ! e>ly ,r5aissance4 ,! mat]ial 0 gold brocade1 cov]$ ) wond]ful designs c>ri$ out 9 ne$lework1 repres5t+ sa9ts & angels1 trees & birds1 & arabesques4 ,! :ole 0 adorn$ ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones valu$ at #hj1jjj4 ,at 8 dea? ! pope bequea!d ?is ve/m5t to ! ca!dral ( 8 native t[n4 ,! cope 0 /ol5 9 ,m>*1 #ahhd1 f ! treasury at ,pi5za2 & %ortly aft]w>ds discov]$ 9 ! %op ( a deal] 9 antiquities at ,flor5ce1 b completely /ripp$ ( its preci\s /ones & ( "s ( its m valuable embroid]y4 ,aft] magi/]ial inve/igation1 ! cope 0 re/or$ to ,pi5za4 ,! cope at ,bologna is ?us describ$3 ,subjects f ! ,new ,te/am5t conta9$ 9 two r[s ( tab]nacle comp>tm5ts1 twelve 9 l[]1 sev5 9 upp] r[4 ,sp&rils occupi$ by angels play+ on v>i\s musical in/rum5ts4 ,aft] ea* r[1 a bord] conta9+ m$allions ) heads 7( angels1 prophets1 c471 tw5ty-?ree 9 l[]1 n9e 9 upp] r[4 ,no orphrey2 no bord] or outside curve2 quasi-hood v small4 ,,app5dix ,,vi41 ,,to ,,page #cbf4 ,f ,rock's ,textiles1 p4 #bge4 ,! ,syon ,mona/]y ,cope2 gr\nd gre51 ) crimson int]lac+ b>b$ quatrefoils1 enclos+ figure ( our ,"l1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ! ,apo/les1 ) w+$ *]ubim /&+ on :eels 9 ! int]v5+ spaces1 & ! orphreys1 morse1 & hem wr\ght ) armorial be>+s2 ! :ole done 9 gold1 silv]1 & v>i\s col\r$ silks4 ,engli% ne$lework1 ?irte5? c5tury2 #i feet #g in*es by #d feet #h in*es4 ,?is h&some cope1 s v rem>kable on acc\nt ( its comp>atively p]fect pres]vation1 is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful among ! sev]al liturgical ve/m5ts ( ! old5 p]iod any:]e to be n[ f\nd 9 ,*ri/5dom4 ,if by all lov]s ( m$ival antiquity x w be look$ ^u z s valuable a specim5 ( art ( its k9d & "t1 = e ,engli%man x ought to h a d\ble int]e/1 %[+1 z x does1 su* a spl5did & in/ructive example ( ! opus ',anglicum1' or ,engli% "w1 :i* won itself s wide a fame1 & 0 s eag]ly s\ght aft] ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ,europe dur+ ! ,middle ,ages4 ,dr4 ,rock gives a li/ ( ! subjects4 ,/4 ,mi*ael ov]com+ ,satan 7f ,rev4 xii4 #g1 #i74 ,! next quatrefoil above ?is is fill$ ) ! ,crucifixion4 ,"h ! ,bless$ ,virg9 is array$ 9 a gre5 tunic1 & a gold5 mantle l9$ ) vair2 h] head is k]*ief$1 & h] uplift$ h&s sorr[fully clasp$4 ,/4 ,john--^: dress is all ( gold--is on ! left1 at ! foot ( ! cross1 ^u :i* ! ,savi\r1 wr\ght all 9 silv]--a mo/ unusual ?+--) a clo? ( gold wrapp$ ab\t ,8 lo9s1 is fa/5$ by ?ree 7n f\r7 nails4444 ,9 ! highe/ quatrefoil is figur$ ! ,r$eem] 9 glory1 cr[n$ z a k+1 & seat$ on a cu%ion$ ?rone4 ,re/+ ^u ,8 knee & /eadi$ by ,8 h& is ! ,mund1 or ball repres5t+ ! e>?4444 ,?is is divid$ into ?ree p>ts1 ( :i* ! l>ge/1 an upp] horizontal hemicycle1 is col\r$ crimson 7n[ fad$ to a br[ni% t9t71 b ! l[] hemicycle is divid$ v]tically 9 two1 ( :i* "o portion is col\r$ gre51 & ! o!r :ite or silv]$4444 ,! next two subjects to be describ$ are--"o on ! "r h&1 ! dea? ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y2 ! o!r1 on ! left1 h] burial4444 ,bel[ ! burial we h our ,"l 9 ! g>d51 signifi$ by two trees2 /ill we>+ ! cr[n ( ?orns2 our ,"l 9 ,8 left h& holds ! bann] ( ! ,resurrection1 & ) ,8 "r be/[s ,8 b5$iction on ! kneel+ ,magdal5e1 :o is wimpl$1 & we>s a mantle ( gre51 %ot yell[1 ov] a light purple tunic4 ,bel[1 b outside ! quatrefoil1 is a layman clad 9 gold1 ^u 8 knees1 & hold+ a long1 n>r[ scroll be>+ words :i* _c n[ be satisfactorily read4 ,l[]mo/ ( all we see ! ,apo/le ,/4 ,philip1 ) a book 9 "o h&1 9 ! o!r ! flay+ knife4 ,a little above him ,/4 ,pet]1 ) 8 two keys1 "o gold1 ! o!r silv]2 & some:at "u him is ,/4 ,&rew ) 8 cross4 ,on ! o!r side ( ,/4 ,mi*ael & ! ,dragon is ,/4 ,james ! ,great]--sometimes call$ ( ,compo/ella1 because he lies buri$ 9 t ,spani% city--) a book 9 "o h& & 9 ! o!r a /aff1 & slung f 8 wri/ a wallet1 bo? emblems ( pilgrimage to 8 %r9e 9 ,galicia4444 ,9 ! next quatrefoil above is ,/4 ,paul ) 8 sword1 & ov] to ! "r ,/4 ,?omas2 /ill fur!r to ! "r ,/4 ,james ! ,less4 ,j above is our ,savi\r1 clad 9 a gold5 tunic1 & c>ry+ a /aff1 ov]com+ ! unbelief ( ,/4 ,?omas4 ,^u 8 knees t ,apo/le feels1 ) 8 "r h& held by ! ,r$eem]1 ! spe> w\nd 9 ,8 side4 ,z at ! left side1 s "h1 q outside ! sacr$ hi/ory on ! cope1 we h ! figure ( an individual probably liv+ at ! "t ! ve/m5t 0 wr\ght4 ,! dress ( ! o!r %[s him to be a layman2 by ! %av5 cr[n ( 8 head1 ?is p]son mu/ h be5 a cl]ic ( "s sort2 b we _c tell 444 = ! canvas is worn q b>e1 s t we see no?+ n[ b ! l9es drawn 9 black to guide ! embroid]]4444 ,?is ,*ur*man holds up ano!r scroll be>+ words :i* c no long] be read4 ,:5 ?is cope 0 new1 x %[$1 writt5 9 tall gold lett]s m ?an an in* high1 an inscription n[ cut up & lo/ 444 ! ^w ne1 & a ,v on "s ( ! %r$s are all t rema9s ( x4 ,9 its orig9al /ate x c\ld give u ! :ole ( ! twelve ,apo/les4 ,portions c /ill be se54444 ,! l[] "p ( ! ve/m5t has be5 sadly cut away1 & re%ap$ ) ! fragm5ts2 p]haps at t "t 7 add$ ! pres5t h]aldic orphrey1 morse1 & bord]1 probably fifty ye>s lat] ?an ! o!r portions ( ?is mat*less specim5 ( ! f>-fam$ ',opus ,anglicum4' ,( angels1 ! n9e *oirs1 & ! ?ree great hi]>*ies1 ,*]ubim1 ,s]aphim1 & ,?rones1 are figur$ "h4 ,l$ a good way by ,ezekiel1 b n foll[+ t prophet /ep by /ep1 our m$ival draughtsm5 f\nd out = !mselves a c]ta9 angel =m4 ,to ?is !y gave a human %ape1 t ( a comely y\?2 clo?+ him ) six w+s1 ) human feet2 in/ead ( ! body be+ full ( eyes1 ! w+s are (t5 compos$ ( ! bright-ey$ fea!rs ( ! peacock4 ,on ?is cope ! eight angels /&+ ^u :eels are s plac$ t !y are ev]y:]e ne>e/ to ^? quatrefoils :]e9 our ,"l's ,p]son comes1 & may !re=e be tak5 z repres5t+ ! upp] hi]>*y ( ! angelic ho/4 ,! o!r angels1 n ^u :eels1 no d\bt belong to ! second hi]>*y2 :ile ^? t h b "o pair ( w+s 7n ?ree7 repres5t ! l[e/ hi]>*y4 ,all1 l our ,"l1 are b>efoot4 ,all ( !m h _! h&s lift$ 9 pray]4444 ,= e lov] ( ,engli% h]aldry ?is cope1 s pl5tifully blazon$ ) armorial be>+s1 w h a special value1 equal to t belong+ to _m an anci5t roll ( arms4 ,! orphrey1 morse & hem conta9 ! arms ( ,w>wick1 ,ca/ile & ,leon1 ,f]r>s1 ,g5eville ,ev]>d1 ! badge ( ! ,knights ,templ>s1 ,clif=d1 ,sp5c]1 ,lemisi or ,l9dsey1 ,le ,botil]1 ,%eldon1 ,mont5ey ( ,essex1 ,*amp]n\n1 ,engl&1 ,tyddeswall1 ,gr&eson1 ,fitz,alan1 ,hampd51 ,p]cy1 ,*amb[e1 ,ribbes=d1 ,bygod1 ,rog] de ,mortim]1 ,golb>e or ,grove1 ,de ,bass+burn1 ) _m o!rs n recogniz$1 & frequ5t repetitions4444 ,besides _! h]aldry1 squ>es at ea* corn] are wr\ght ) swans & peacocks ( curi\s int]e/ = e lov] ( m$ival symbolism4444 ,^! coats ( arms1 be+ mo/ly blazon$ on loz5ge-%ap$ %ields1 sugge/ t possibly !y record ^? ( ! noble ladies :o work$ ! bord]2 :ile ^? on circles may be ! arms ( religi\s h\ses or donors4 ,a ^w or two ^u ! ne$lework2 h[ x 0 done2 & ! n[ unus$ me*anical appliance to x aft] x 0 wr\ght1 s obs]vable on ?is ve/m5t1 l5d+ its figures m effect4 ,we f9d t = ! human face1 all ov] ?is cope1 ! fir/ /it*es 7 begun 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek1 & work$ 9 circul> l9es1 into :i*1 aft] ! fir/ />t1 !y fell1 & 7 s c>ri$ on ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! fle% t9ts4 ,!n ) a little iron rod1 end+ 9 a small bulb slightly heat$1 7 press$ d[n ^? p>ts ( ! faces work$ 9 circles1 z well z ! wide dimple 9 ! ?roat4 ,by ! holl[s ?us sunk a play ( light & %ad[ is br\ght out t l5ds to ! p>ts s treat$ a look ( be+ done 9 l[ relief4 ,^u ! lightly clo!d figure ( our ,"l ! same process is foll[$1 & %[s a notewor?y example ( ! m$ival k ( ext]nal anatomy4 ,we mu/ n1 h[ev]1 hide f ourselves t ! unequal surfaces1 giv5 by su* a use ( ! hot iron to p>ts ( ! "w1 expose x to ! dang] ( be+ worn by friction m ?an o!r p>ts1 & soon betray ! damage by _! ?readb>e1 d+y look1 z is ! case 9 ! example j cit$4 ,! me?od = gr\nd+ ! quatrefoils is rem>kable = be+ done 9 a long zigzag diap] patt]n 7laid /it*74444 ,! /it*+ on ! armorial be>+s is ! same z t n[ foll[$ 9 _m trifl+ ?+s work$ 9 wool 7cross /it*74 ,! canvas 7or l957 = e "p ( ?is cope is ( ! f9e/ sort1 b its crimson canvas l9+ is ?ick & co>se4444 ,a ^w or two ab\t ! hi/ory ( ?is f9e cope4444 ,dr4 ,rock n[ ent]s into ! hi/ory ( ! guilds1 :i* includ$ noble laym5 & wom51 & memb]s ( ! cl]gy2 & tells u t ! rolls ( ^! associations sometimes grew to be exce$+ly weal?y4 ,he says t ea* ( ^! guilds _h usually 9 its p>i% *ur* a *apel or alt> ( its own1 spl5didly provid$ =1 to :i* (f]+s 7 spontane\sly giv5 by individuals1 or by memb]s clubb+ toge!r t _! jo9t gift might be ! m wor?y4 ,p]haps ! cl]ic & ! layman work$ on ! cope may h be5 ! donors4 ,dr4 ,rock sugge/s t possibly ,cov5try may h be5 ! place ( its orig91 :]e ! fam\s ,corpus ,*ri/i plays 7:i* ?is cope s well illu/rates7 drew cr[ds e ye> to see !m1 z is te/ifi$ by ! ,pa/on lett]s4 ,tak+ ?is old city z a c5tre1 ) a radius ( no great l5g?1 we may draw a circle on ! map enclos+ ,tamwor?1 t[] & t[n1 ,*>tley ca/le1 ,w>wick1 ,*>lcote1 & ,al?orp4 ,! lords ( ^! broad l&s w\ld1 9 accordance ) ! religi\s feel+s ( ^? times1 become bro!rs ( ! fam\s ,guild ( ,cov5try1 & on acc\nt ( _! high rank f9d _! arms embroid]$ on ! ve/m5ts belong+ to _! frat]nity4 ,t su* a pi\s que5 z ! g5tle ,eleanor1 wife ( ,edw>d ! ,fir/1 :o di$ #abij1 %\ld h 9 h] lifetime become a si/] is v likely1 s t we may easily acc\nt = ! %ield--,ca/ile & ,leon4 ,! o!r noble %ields may possibly record munific5t b5efactions4 ,! :ole mu/ h tak5 v long 9 ! work+1 & ! probability is t x 0 embroid]$ by ! nuns ( "s conv5t :i* /ood 9 or ne> ,cov5try4444 ,^u ! banks ( ! ,?ames at ,islewor?1 ne> ,london1 ,h5ry ,v4 built & munific5tly end[$ a mona/]y1 to be call$ ',syon1' = ! nuns ( ,/4 ,bridget's ord]4 ,among ! e>lie/ fri5ds ( ?is new h\se 0 a ,ma/] ,?omas ,graunt1 an (ficial 9 "o ( ! ,ecclesia/ical ,c\rts ( ! k+dom4 ,9 ! ,syon ,nun's ,m>tyrologium--a valuable ,,ms4 lately b\ght by ! ,briti% ,museum--?is ,*ur*man is gratefully record$ z ! giv] to _! conv5t ( sev]al preci\s ornam5ts1 ( :i* ?is v cope seem+ly is "o4 ,x 0 ! cu/om = a guild or religi\s body to be/[ "s ri* *ur* ve/m5t ^u an ecclesia/ical advocate :o _h befri5d$ x by 8 plead+s be=e ! tribunal1 & ?us to convey _! ?anks to him ) 8 fee4 ,aft] su* a fa%ion ?is cope might easily h f\nd its way1 ?r\gh ,dr4 ,graunt1 f ,w>wick%ire to ,middlesex4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ,elizabe?'s reign x w5t ) ! nuns1 z !y w&]$ 9 an unbrok5 body ?r\gh ,fl&]s1 ,france1 & ,portugal1 :]e !y halt$4 ,ab\t sixty ye>s ago x came back aga9 f ,lisbon to ,engl&1 & has f\nd a home 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,= want ( space ,i h be5 oblig$ to omit a great deal ( ,dr4 ,rock's int]e/+ acc\nt ( ! ,syon ,cope4 ,! read] is ref]r$ = fur!r details1 especially reg>d+ ! h]aldry & ! subjects 9 ! quatrefoils1 to ,rock's ,textile ,fabrics1 pp4 #bge-bia1 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum 7,no4 #iahb74 ,,app5dix ,,vii41 ,,to ,,page #cej4 ,! ,assyrians 7 great 9 fr+es4 ,( ?is we c judge f _! sculptures1 9 :i* ! ri* deep & broad fr+e =ms ! ornam5t & acc5tuates ! %ap+ ( ! g>m5ts ( k+s & prie/s & nobles4 ,l(tus1 9 8 ,babylon & ,susiana1 tells ( ! only actually exi/+ remnant ( _! textile art ( :i* ,i c f9d any record4 ,"s t]ra-cotta c(f9s 7 op5$ at ,w>ka 7! anci5t ,ere*71 & 9 "o ( !m 0 a cu%ion1 on :i* ! head1 gone to du/1 _h repos$4 ,x 0 cov]$ ) l95--fr+$4 ,no?+ else _h surviv$ ! ages except a huge wig ( false hair4 ,su* fragm5t>y e*oes f a life1 a civilization1 & an art dead = ?\s&s ( ye>s1 are curi\sly pa!tic1 & t\* & />tle ! ?9k+ m9d4 ,,app5dix ,,viii41 ,,to ,,page #cfi4 ,! foll[+ poem f ! ,anglo-,saxon poem ( ,be[ulf %[s t ! hospitable hall ( ! ,saxon e>l 0 hung ) tape/ry embroid]$ ) gold4 ,fla pra 0 ,mu* p 7 ,w]a & ,wifa pe pat w9 ru$ ,m5 & wom5 :o t w9e h\se ,ge/ sele gyr$on gold fag sc9on ,t gue/-hall g>ni%$4 ,clo?s embroid]$ ) gold ,web-aft] wagum4 ,wund]sina feld ,^? along ! walls _m wond]ful sights ,sioga gu/ryleum p>a pe on swyle />a ,to e p]son ( ^? t gaze on su*4 ,translation by ,?omas ,arnold4 ,! poem ( ,be[ulf is suppos$ to h be5 writt5 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,! l9es :i* foll[ are f a poem1 recompos$ f e>li] sagas1 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,x s]ves to %[ t arras 0 us$ 9 b$rooms ?us e>ly 9 ,g]many4 ,f ! ,niebelung5 ,li$1 b]setzt von ,k>l ,simrock1 p4 #bid4 ,man*e s*mucke ,decke von ,arras da lag ,aus li*!llem ,zeuge und man*es ,ueb]da* ,aus arabis*] ,seides s gut sie mo*te se91 ,d>b] lag5 lei/5 du gab5 h]rli*] ,s*e94 ,i owe ^! notices to ! k9dness ( ! ,rev4 ,a4 ,o4 ,w9n+ton ,+ram4 ,,app5dix ,,ix41 ,,to ,,page #cfb4 ,abridg$ f ,trans4 by ,sir ,g4 ,das5t4 7,f ! ,ezrbyggja ,saga47 ,9 t summ] 9 :i* ,*ri/ianity 0 e/abli%$ by law 9 ,icel& 7,a4,d4 #ajjj71 !re came a %ip f (f ! sea out to ,sn[fellsness1 9 ,icel&4 ,x 0 a ,dubl9 %ip1 & on bo>d x 7 ,iri%m5 & m5 f ,sodor & ! ,hebrides1 b few ,norsem54444 ,on bo>d ! %ip 0 a woman f ! ,hebrides1 ^: "n 0 ,?orgunna4 ,h] %ipmates said t !y 7 sure %e _h su* treasures ) h] z w\ld be h>d to get 9 ,icel&4 ,?urida1 ! h\sewife at ,frida1 0 envi\s & covet\s ( ^! preci\s goods1 & receiv$ ,?orgunna into h] home 9 hopes1 by "s means1 to possess h]self ( !m1 especially ! embroid]$ hang+s ( a b$2 b ,?orgunna refus$ to "p ) !m4 ,i w n lie 9 ! /raw = !e1 ?\gh ?\ art a f9e lady1 & ?9ke/ great ?+s ( ?yself4 ,?orgunna made h] own t]ms ) ,?urida & ,ma/] ,h>old1 & set up h] b$ at ! inn] end ( _! hall4 ,h] ri*ly work$ b$-clo!s1 h] ,engli% %eets & silk5 quilt1 & h] b$-hang+s & canopy 7 su* t m5 ?\ght no?+ at all l !m _h ev] be5 se54 ,an air ( tru? is giv5 to ! :ole /ory by ! details4 ,?orgunna is describ$ z tall & /rong & v /\t4 ,%e 0 sw>?y br[n1 ) eyes set close toge!r2 h] hair 0 br[n & v ?ick4 ,%e 0 well-behav$ 9 daily life1 & w5t to *ur* e morn+ be=e %e w5t to h] "w4 ,!n comes an acc\nt ( a /orm1 & a ra9 ( blood2 & h[ ,?orgunna sick5$ & di$1 & at h] own desire 0 c>ri$ to be buri$ to ,skilholt1 :i* %e prophesi$ w\ld "o day be consid]$ holy1 & t prie/s might !re s+ dirges ov] h]4 ,!re is a curi\s & picturesque acc\nt ( ! two days' j\rney to ,skilholt1 & ! adv5tures t befell ! fun]al cortge2 includ+ ! incid5t ( ! corpse cook+ ! supp] ( ! convoy at an inhospitable f>mh\se :]e !y _h s\ght refuge & receiv$ no ent]ta9m5t4 ,on ,h>old's return home aft] ! fun]al1 he proce$$ to c>ry out ! wi%es ( ,?orgunna1 :o _h w>n$ him t ! own]%ip ( h] embroid]$ hang+s w\ld cause tr\ble1 & !re=e %e _h desir$ !y %\ld be burn$4 ,?urida1 h[ev]1 c\ld n be> to lose !m1 & p]suad$ ,h>old to sp>e !m4 ,aft] ?is foll[$ _m signs & port5ts1 & dea?s ( m5 & wom51 & app>itions ( gho/s1 until ,kj>tan 7,?urida's son7 br\ght out all ,?orgunna's b$-hang+s & furniture1 & burn$ !m 9 ! fire4 ,,app5dix ,x41 ,,to ,,page #cfe4 ,aelfl$ or ,a!lfl$a 0 ! f\nd] ( a race ( embroid]]s4 ,_! p$igree is z foll[s3-- ,,bri?nod1 ,,a!lfl$a4 a ,nor?umb]l& ,%e embroid]$ ! ,*ief or ,ald]man4 d>+ de$s ( h] husb&4 ,,le(l$a4 ,,k+ ,,oswic4 ,oswic's si/] ,a$elfl$a 0 adopt$ by ,hilda1 ,abbess ( ,:itby4 ,%e succe$$ ,hilda1 & di$ #gac4 ,%e 0 a great embroid]]4 ,,aelfw94 ,,aels)4 ,,le(w$4 ,,aels)4 ,le(w$ made h] w 9 ! 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tape/ry works1 #beg2 missal at1 #cj4 ,l>es1 #bia4 ,lea!r1 #abc4 ,lilac1 #ahg4 ,l951 #ceg-h4 ,lomb>dic1 #caj1 #cbc4 ,lotus1 #hi1 #ajb1 #aje4 ,l\is ,,xiv41 #df1 #bdg1 #bgf1 #ccb1 #cic4 ,l\is ,,xv41 #dg1 #aaj1 #bdg1 #bgf1 #ccb4 ,l\is ,,xvi41 #ccb4 ,lyons1 #aea1 #afg1 #cde4 ,maniple ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 #add2 9 ,durham libr>y1 #cfd4 ,mantle ( ,demet]1 #ic2 ( ,ajax1 #ajc2 ( ,s]vius ,tullius1 #abi2 ( ,alki/h5es1 #bii2 ( ,gisela1 #cbc2 ( ,k+ ,wiglaf1 #cfc-d4 ,manu1 ,code (1 #cad4 ,manufactures ( ,n9eveh & ,babylon1 #abg2 at ,lyons1 #aea2 ( silk1 #afj2 at ,pal]mo1 #afa4 ,m>cus ,aurelius1 #aeh4 ,m>k's1 ,/41 ,v5ice1 #cdf4 ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 #chg4 ,m>y's1 ,/41 ,hall1 ,cov5try1 #bej1 #cgi4 ,melito1 ,bi%op ( ,s>dis1 book on ,symbolism by1 #ccc4 ,middle ,ages1 #ab1 #bc1 #db1 #gc1 #abe1 #acg1 #ade1 #afh1 #ahc1 #bjb1 #bci1 #bdb1 #bdi1 #bgc1 #cjg1 #cae4 ,mitre at ,milan1 #baa2 ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 #cba1 #cfi4 ,monks ( ,/4 ,flor5t1 ,saumur1 #bdb2 ( ,cluny1 #bdb2 ( ,fleury1 #bdb2 9 ,engl&1 #bdi2 ( ,/4 ,alban's1 #bea4 ,monum5ts1 #cgc4 ,morris1 ,william1 #bij4 ,mosaics1 #dj1 #cjj1 #cad2 ,empress ,!odora's dress figur$ 91 #da1 #ic2 ( ,/a4 ,pud5ziana1 #cjf1 #cag2 e>ly ,*ri/ian1 #cad2 9 ,/a4 ,m>ia ,maggiore1 #aag1 #cbb4 ,mummy-wrapp+s1 #ba4 ,museum1 ,cluny1 #bdg1 #bge1 #bgg2 at ,b\lac1 #ef4 ,musl91 #aci4 ,myc51 tomb ( ,agamemnon at1 #ai2 lion's gate (1 #cjd4 ,ne$le1 ! fir/1 #ad1 #ceg2 bronze1 /eel1 #aie1 #bac2 bone1 #ceh4 ,nimr\d1 #bd4 ,n9ete5? c5tury1 /yle (1 #di1 #cci4 ,normans1 #cff4 ,nor?umb]l& ,h\se1 tape/ries at1 #beg4 ,nunn]ies1 #aj4 ,opus ,alex&r9um1 #aag4 ,opus ,anglicanum1 #cbe1 #cgf4 ,orange1 #ahg4 ,ord]1 #ei4 ,ori5tal "w1 #cib4 ,orphrey1 #cfh-i4 ,oud5>de hall+s or salles1 #beb4 ,pa9t+1 #d4 ,pal]mo1 silk-weav+ at1 #afe1 #cjg4 ,pall ( ,alex&]1 #adb2 at ,dun/able1 #bea1 #cgh2 ( ,london ,companies1 #cbi1 #cgi4 ,pamphile silk-weav]1 #aeb4 ,panels1 #fi1 #gi4 ,pat*work1 #aag2 appliqu1 #bad1 #cbe1 #cib4 ,patt]ns1 #hb-aag2 wave1 #fb1 #aad2 key1 #fc1 #ig2 ,ori5tal1 #hd1 #ii2 lotus1 #hi1 #ajb2 animal1 #ic2 lily1 #ie2 rose1 #ie2 palm leaf on %awl1 #if2 sacr$ hom1 #ii2 p9e-apple1 #ajj2 honeysuckle1 #aja2 egg & tongue1 #ajb2 cross1 #ajc2 cr5elat$1 #ajd2 ,r5aissance1 #ajh2 cl\d1 #aji1 #cch2 fundata or nett$1 #aji2 :eel1 #aaj2 ,moori%1 #aaj2 ,sicilian1 #aaa2 %ell1 #aab2 ,indian balcony1 #aab2 *rysoclavus or palmat$1 #aac2 wick] & lattice-"w1 #aac2 bead1 #aad2 daisy1 #aad2 geometrical1 #aae2 ,g]man & ,v5etian books (1 #bjf2 fea!r1 #bjh2 ,p]sian1 #bda2 *eck1 #bgj2 metal-"w1 #cbe2 ,ros1 or :eel & plate1 #ccf-g2 ,indian dimity1 #cid4 ,peacocks1 #afc1 #baa2 fea!rs1 #cgf4 ,pe>ls1 #ccb1 #cfb1 #chc1 #chi4 ,pect9eum1 #bce4 ,p5ates1 #bia4 ,p5elope1 bridal c\* (1 #bha4 ,peplos ( ,a!ne1 #cb4 ,pre ,labb1 #bdb4 ,p]sian c>pets1 #bc1 #gc1 #ih1 #acb1 #bda1 #bff1 #bga2 rugs1 #id2 silks1 #aec4 ,p]spective1 #gj4 ,pet]'s1 ,/41 ,rome1 #cdf4 ,pheidias1 #ei4 ,phnicians1 #g1 #ba1 #abe1 #agf1 #ceg2 b[ls f ,cyprus1 #aji4 ,phrygium1 #bjb4 ,pictorial art1 #gi1 #cca4 ,plt]esque1 #de4 ,plum>ii1 #bjg1 #bab4 ,plu%1 #bba4 ,pluvial ( ,/4 ,silve/]1 #cai2 at ,bologna1 #cbj2 at ,aix1 #cea2 ,d>oca1 #cgf4 ,polymita1 #hg4 ,pompeii1 #bfi4 ,portraits ( ,*>les ,v41 #bie2 ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 at ,wilton ,h\se1 #cgb2 ( f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 #cgi2 9 ne$lework 9 reign ( ,james ,i41 #chh4 ,portuguese silks1 #cid4 ,progression1 #fd4 ,proportion1 #fd1 #bia4 ,pulv9>ium1 #bjd4 ,purl1 #chg4 ,purple1 #ahg4 ,que5 ,anne1 /yle 9 reign (1 #df1 #di1 #hh1 #cia1 #cid4 ,que5 ,elizabe?1 embroid]y (1 #che-f2 /yle 9 reign (1 #chi4 ,que5 ,m>y ( ,hung>y1 #ccj4 ,que5 ,matilda1 #cfg4 ,radiation1 #fg4 ,raphael1 #dd1 #bde2 c>toons (1 #bee4 ,r5aissance1 #bf1 #dc1 #de1 #ge1 #ajh1 #cjh1 #cbi1 #chj1 #chc4 ,repetition1 #fb4 ,r]$os at ,/4 ,alban's1 #bdi1 #cdg2 ( ,v9tn]s' ,company1 #bea4 ,ri*>d ,cur de ,lion1 #cgd4 ,robes ( ,julius ,cs>1 #aec2 ( ,*ild]ic1 #add2 ( ,bi%op ,adhelme1 #cfa2 ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 #cfi4 ,rog]1 ,k+ ( ,sicily1 transports silk-weav]s f ,greece1 #afa4 ,roman silks1 #afj2 fa%ions1 #bii4 ,romanesque1 #cf1 #cjf1 #cbc1 #cfb1 #cfd4 ,roses1 ,w>s (1 #cga1 #cgb-c1 #cgh4 ,rugs1 #bhe4 ,runic art1 #bi1 #cjf4 ,samit1 #ade4 ,sampl] ( ,h5ry ,,vii4's reign1 #cgi-hj4 ,s>ac5icum1 #bdj4 ,sat91 #afa1 #agj2 ( ,bruges1 #aga4 ,sc>let1 #ahb1 #ahg1 #ahi4 ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework1 ,s\? 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,k5s+ton1 #cif4 ,wiglaf1 ,k+1 #cfb4 ,william & ,m>y1 #cic4 ,wilton c>pet works1 #aij4 ,w9dsor1 #beg1 #cih4 ,wool1 #abe1 #abg1 #acj2 ,b]l91 #cie4 ,worce/]1 dress 9 tomb ( ,walt] de ,cantilupe1 #cbj2 cope ( ,william ( ,blois1 #cbb2 tomb ( ,k+ ,john1 #cgc4 ,workh\se %eet+1 #adj4 ,wroxton ,h\se1 ,arras at1 #bef4 ,york1 ,ar*bi%op (1 ,arras ) design ( ! ,f\r ,seasons1 #bee4 ,zoroa/]1 #aja4 ,,errata4 ,page xv1 l9e #bg1 = ,alb]t ,ca/et read ,alb]t ,ca/el4 #aj1 #bd1 read z t ( an important factor4 #ag1 #bb1 = sl[ read swift4 #bf1 #af1 = art read arti/ic4 #db1 #af1 = are read 74 #ef1 #e1 read advance ( !m1 9 ! e>lie/4 #ff1 #ba1 = we read ,i4 #ge1 #bj1 = ,^! read ,^?4 #aja1 #ah1 = f ,c]vetri1 9 ,s\!rn ,italy1 read f a tomb at ,*iusi1 9 ,etruria4 #aef1 #h1 = ,*9 read ,*an4 #aie1 #bj1 = #f1 #g4 ,bone ne$les f ,neoli?ic cave-man's grave1 read #f4 ,cave-man's ne$le f ! ,p9hole1 ,*ur*field1 ,ereswell ,crag4 #g4 ,bone ne$le f ,la ,madele9e1 ,dordogne4 #aih1 #e1 footnote1 = act read art4 #bjh1 #c1 footnote1 = ,arte ,plum>ii read ,arte ,plum>ia4 #bcg1 #h1 = :i* prove read prov+4 #bci1 #ag1 delete aft] ( art4 #ah1 ins]t aft] backw>ds4 #bdb1 #i1 = 9 ! ,crimea read at ,*iusi4 ,transcrib]'s ,note ,page #bjb--! m>k] = footnote #b 0 miss+ 9 ! orig9al4 ,! transcrib] has e/imat$ :]e x %\ld h be51 bas$ on ! text & ref]5ce mat]ial !re94 ,page #cjc includes an exc]pt f ,psalm #de1 ) quot$ v]se numb]s ( #aj1 #ad & #ae4 ,^! %\ld be v]ses #i1 #ac & #ad4 ,ar*aic spell+ is pres]v$ z pr9t$4 ,v>iable spell+1 hyph5ation & use ( acc5ts has be5 made consi/5t :]e !re 0 a cle> preval5ce ( "o =m ov] ! o!r1 or ) ref]5ce to reliable s\rces2 o!rwise1 ^! are pres]v$ z pr9t$4 ,typographic errors1 e4g4 omitt$1 sup]flu\s or transpos$ lett]s1 & punctuation errors h be5 repair$4 ,o!r am5dm5ts are z foll[s3 ,plate #ga--precipit am5d$ to precepit & omitt$ ^w 'pio' add$--444 ,aelfl$ fi]i precepit pio ,episcopo ,fride/ano4 ,page xx--#c am5d$ to #i--;,f ,lay>d's ,monum5ts1 ,s]ies i4 pl4 #i4 ,page xxi--,edw>d am5d$ to ,ri*>d--#f4 ,badge ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,page xxii--,john am5d$ to ,m>k--,,/4 ,,m>k4 ,anglo-,saxon ,book ( ! ,gospels4 ,page #aae--e4 remov$ f beg9n+ ( section title1 = consi/5cy ) o!rs 9 t *apt]1 ,,geometrical4 ,page #aig--;,encyclop$ia am5d$ to ,cyclopdia--,! second li/ is f ,rees' ,cyclopdia 7,/it*es71 #ahai 444 ,page #caa--;des ,antiquits am5d$ to ,royale des ,antiquaires--444 p> la ,socit ,royale des ,antiquaires du ,nord 444 ,page #caf--,lwewelig am5d$ to ,wl$ig--444 & 9 ! ,wel% ballad ( ,! ,dream ( ,max5 ,wl$ig 444 ,page #caf1 footnote #ejb--,pallison's am5d$ to ,pallis]'s--,see ,mrs4 ,pallis]'s ,lace1 p4 #d4 ,page #cbj--,t4 am5d$ to ,i4--444 7see ,hon4 & ,rev4 ,i4 ,clif=d's li/ ( embroid]ies 9 ,app5dix #e74 ,page #cca--,ri>io am5d$ to ,riano--,don ,juan ,f4 ,riano#ecc says t ,tol$o is a p]fect museum 444 ,page #cca1 footnote #ecc--,ri>io am5d$ to ,riano--,see ,! ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,spa91 pp4 #bej-bfd1 by ,don ,juan ,f4 ,riano1 444 ,page #dag--cej am5d$ to #cdh--;,design1 444 floral1 #ga1 #cde1 #cdh2 444 ,page #dag--baj am5d$ to #aji--;,embroid]ies1 444 ,egyptian1 #ic1 #aad1 #acj1 #acd1 #bji1 #bcf1 #bga2 444 ,page #dai--dg am5d$ to #df & #cjh am5d$ to #bgf--,l\is ,,xiv41 #df1 #bdg1 #bgf1 #ccb1 #cic4 ,page #dai--afg am5d$ to #ic--,mosaics1 444 ,empress ,!odora's dress figur$ 91 #da1 #ic2 444 ,page #dai--cjf am5d$ to #aag--,mosaics1 444 9 ,/a4 ,m>ia ,maggiore1 #aag1 #cbb4 ,page #dbj--;index entries = ',pall' & ',pamphile1' :i* orig9ally foll[$ ! entry = ',patt]n1' h be5 mov$ to _! correct places4 ,page #dba--cii am5d$ to #cde--,/it*es1 444 ecclesia/ical1 #cde2 444 ,!re are a numb] ( discrepancies betwe5 ! in=mation 9 ! li/ ( illu/rations 7,,loi7 & ! in=mation on ! plates !mselves4 ,"s ( ^! are simple omission1 o!rs involve conflict+ in=mation4 ,! transcrib] has resolv$ & repair$ "s ( ^! diff]5ces ) ref]5ce to alt]native s\rces4 ,9 g5]al1 x seems t ! in=mation on ! plate is correct4 ,^? t c\ld n be resolv$ are z foll[s3 ,pl4 #e--,,loi has ,j\rnal ,asiatique1 ,syro-,egypti5-,phnici54 ,plate has ,j\rnal ,asiatique1 ,c\pe de ,pale/r9a4 ,pl4 #i--,,loi has sixte5? c5tury4 ,plate has sev5te5? c5tury4 ,pl4 #aj--,,loi has #e1 #f1 #g4 ,egyptian smoo? & rippl+ wave patt]n4 ,plate has #e1 #f1 #g4 ,egyptian ,smoo? & ,rippl+ ,wat] ,patt]ns4 ,pl4 #aj--,,loi has #aj1 #aa1 #ad4 ,babylonian & ,*aldean4 ,plate has #aj1 #aa1 #ad4 ,assyrian4 ,pl4 #aa--,,loi omits ,assyrian ref]5ces4 ,pl4 #ab--,,loi has #b1 #c4 ,egyptian4 #d1 #e4 ,greek4 ,plate has #b1 #c4 ,indian ,lotus ,patt]ns4 #d1 #e4 ,egyptian ,lotus ,patt]ns4 ,pl4 #ae--,,loi has ,book ( ,kells4 ,plate has ,l9disf>ne ,gospels4 ,pl4 #bj--,,loi has #a1 #b1 #c4 ,assyrian4 #d4 ,sicilian ,silk4 #e4 ,m$ival4 ,plate has #a1 #b1 #c1 #e4 ,assyrian4 #d4 ,sicilian ,silk4 ,pl4 #bh--,,loi has #a4 ,dress patt]ns f old ,,ms4 #b1 #c4 ,old ,engli% tiles4 ,plate has #a1 #b4 ,go?ic tiles4 #c4 ,go?ic ,bord] ( a ,dress4 #d4 ,go?ic ,v9e4 ,pl4 #ca--,,loi omits m5tion ( a ?ird ,egyptian fundata patt]n4 ,pl4 #cb--,,loi ref]5ces ,bock's ,lit4 ,gew4 ii4 p4 #bdf4 ,plate ref]5ces ,vol i4 taf4 xi4 ,pl4 #ce--,,loi omits m5tion ( a peacock patt]n4 ,plate omits m5tion ( ,p]sian type4 ,pl4 #da--,! s\rce ( ! examples are ei!r omitt$ or diff]5t on ! ,,loi to ^? giv5 on ! plate4 ,pl4 #fh--,,loi has sixte5? c5tury4 ,plate has fifte5? c5tury4 ,pl4 #gj--,,loi has ,a4,d4 #dcd4 ,plate has six? c5tury4 ,pl4 #gb--,,loi ,,/4 ,,gregory ,,& ,,/4 ,,john 7,,prophet74 ,plate has ,/4 ,john & ,/4 ,rog]4 ,pl4 #gd--,,loi gives diff]5t title = ,/rutt's book to t giv5 on ! plate4 ,f rese>*1 x seems t ! %ort title is actually ,! ,regal & ,ecclesia/ical ,antiqities ( ,engl&4 ,pl4 #gf--,,loi has twelf? c5tury4 ,plate has ,,xiii4 c5tury4 ,illu/rations h be5 mov$ :]e necess>y s t !y are n 9 ! middle ( a p>agraph4 ,"s ( ! plates d n h numb]s on ! plate !mselves4