---------------------------------------- ------- ,transcriber's note3 ,in the text oe represents an oe ligature4 ,discrepancies between chapter names in ,,contents and in chapter headings have been retained as shown in the original book4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,,culture ,,and ,,cooking2 ,,or1 ,,art ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen4 ,,by ,,catherine ,,owen ,le ,crateur1 en obligeant l'homme manger pour vivre1 l'y invite par l'apptit et l'en rcompense par le plaisir4 --,,brillat ,,savarin4 ,,cassell1 ,,petter1 ,,galpin ,,co41 ,,new ,,york1 ,,london1 ,,and ,,paris4 #ahha ,,copyright1 #ahha1 ,,by ,o4 ,m4 ,,dunham4 ,,press ,,of ,j4 ,j4 ,,little ,,co41 ,,nos4 #aj ,,to #bj ,,astor ,,place1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,preface4 ,,this is not a cookery book4 ,it makes no attempt to replace a good one2 it is rather an effort to fill up the gap between you and your household oracle1 whether she be one of those exasperating old friends who maddened our mother with their vagueness1 or the newer and better lights of our own generation1 the latest and best of all being a lady as well known for her novels as for her works on domestic economy--one more proof1 if proof were needed1 of the truth ,i endeavor to set forth--if somewhat tediously forgive me--in this little book3 that cooking and cultivation are by no means antagonistic4 ,who does not remember with affectionate admiration ,charlotte ,bront taking the eyes out of the potatoes stealthily1 for fear of hurting the feelings of her purblind old servant2 or ,margaret ,fuller shelling peas8 ,the chief difficulty1 ,i fancy1 with women trying recipes is1 that they fail and know not why they fail1 and so become discouraged1 and this is where ,i hope to step in4 ,but although this is not a cookery book1 insomuch as it does not deal chiefly with recipes1 ,i shall yet give a few2 but only when they are1 or ,i believe them to be1 better than those in general use1 or good things little known1 or supposed to belong to the domain of a ,french chef1 of which ,i have introduced a good many4 ,should ,i succeed in making things that were obscure before clear to a few women1 ,i shall be as proud as was ,mme4 de ,genlis when she boasts in her ,memoirs that she has taught six new dishes to a ,german housewife4 ,six new dishes6 ,when ,brillat-,savarin says3 ,he who has invented one new dish has done more for the pleasure of mankind than he who has discovered a star4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,page ,,preliminary ,,remarks #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,on ,,bread4 ,sponge for bread4--,one cause of failure4--,why home-made bread often has a hard crust4--,on baking4--,ovens4--,more reasons why bread may fail to be good4--,light rolls4--,rusks4--,kreuznach horns4--,kringles4--,brioche 7,paris ,jockey ,club recipe74--,souffle bread4--,a novelty #ab ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,pastry4 ,why you fail in making good puff paste4--,how to succeed4--,how to handle it4--,to put fruit pies together so that the syrup does not boil out4--,ornamenting fruit pies4--,rissolettes4--,pastry tablets4--,frangipane tartlets4--,rules for ascertaining the heat of your oven #bb ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,what ,,to ,,have ,,in ,,your ,,store-,,room4 ,mushroom powder 7recipe74--,stock to keep1 or glaze 7recipe74--,uses of glaze4--,glazing meats1 hams1 tongues1 etc4--,mitre d'htel butter 7recipe74--,uses of it4--,ravigotte or ,montpellier butter 7recipe74--,uses of it4--,roux4--,blanc 7recipes74--,uses of both4--,brown flour1 its uses #bh ,,chapter ,v4 ,,luncheons4 ,remarks on what to have for luncheons4--,english meat pies4--,windsor pie4--,veal and ham pie4--,chicken pie4--,raised pork pie4--7,recipes74--,ornamenting meat pies4--,galantine 7recipe74--,fish in jelly4--,jellied oysters4--,a new mayonnaise luncheon for small families4--,potted meats 7recipes74--,anchovy butter4--,a new omelet4--,potato snow4--,lyonnaise potatoes #ce ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,a ,,chapter ,,on ,,general ,,management ,,in ,,very ,,small ,,families4 ,how to have little dinners4--,hints for bills of fare1 etc4--,filet de boeuf ,chateaubriand 7recipe74--,what to do with the odds and ends4--,various recipes4--,salads4--,recipes #dg ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,frying4 ,why you fail4--,panure or bread-crumbs1 to prepare4--,how to prepare flounders as filets de sole4--,fried oysters4--,to clarify dripping for frying4--,remarks4--,pte frire la ,carme4--,same1 la ,provenale4--,broiling #ee ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,roasting #fb ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,boiling ,,and ,,soups4 ,boiling meat4--,rules for knowing exactly the degrees of boiling4--,vegetables4--,remarks on making soup4--,to clear soup4--,why it is not clear4--,coloring pot-au-feu4--,consomm4--,crme de celeri1 a little known soup4--,recipes #fe ,,chapter ,x4 ,,sauces4 ,remarks on making and flavoring sauces4--,espagnole or brown sauce as it should be4--,how to make fine white sauce #gj ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,warming ,,over4 ,remarks4--,salmi of cold meats4--,boeuf la jardinire4--,boeuf au gratin4--,pseudo-beefsteak4 --,cutlets la jardinire4--,cromesquis of lamb4--,sauce piquant4--,miroton of beef4--,simple way of warming a joint4--,breakfast dish4--,stuffed beef4--,beef olives4--,chops la poulette4--,devils4--,mephistophelian sauce4--,fritadella1 twenty recipes in one #gb ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,friandises4 ,biscuit glace at home 7recipes74--,iced souffls 7recipes74--,baba and syrups for it 7recipe74--,savarin and syrup 7recipes74--,bouches de dames4--,how to make ,curaoa4--,maraschino4--,noyeau #hd ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,french ,,candies ,,at ,,home4 ,how to make them4--,fondants4--,vanilla4--,almond cream4--,walnut cream4--,tutti frutti4--,various candies dipped in cream4--,chocolate creams4--,fondant panach4--,punch drops #ia ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,for ,,people ,,of ,,very ,,small ,,means4 ,remarks4--,what may be made of a soup bone4--,several very economical dishes4--,pot roasts4--,dishes requiring no meat #if ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,a ,,few ,,things ,,it ,,is ,,well ,,to ,,remember #aje ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,on ,,some ,,table ,,prejudices #ajh ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,a ,,chapter ,,of ,,odds ,,and ,,ends4 ,altering recipes4--,how to have tarragon1 burnet1 etc4--,remarks on obtaining ingredients not in common use4--,an impromptu salamander4--,larding needle4--,how to have parsley fresh all winter without expense4--,on having kitchen conveniences4--,anecdote related by ,jules ,gouffe4--,on servants in ,america4--,a little advice by way of valedictory #aaa ,,index #aai ,,culture ,,and ,,cooking4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,a ,,few ,,preliminary ,,remarks4 ,,alexandre ,,dumas1 pre1 after writing five hundred novels1 says1 ,i wish to close my literary career with a book on cooking4 ,and in the hundred pages or so of preface--or perhaps overture would be the better word1 since in it a group of literary men1 while contributing recondite recipes1 flourish trumpets in every key--to his huge volume he says1 ,i wish to be read by people of the world1 and practiced by people of the art 7gens de l'art72 and although ,i wish1 like every one who writes1 to be read by all the world1 ,i wish to aid the practice1 not of the professors of the culinary art1 but those whose aspirations point to an enjoyment of the good things of life1 but whose means of attaining them are limited4 ,there is a great deal of talk just now about cooking2 in a lesser degree it takes its place as a popular topic with ceramics1 modern antiques1 and household art4 ,the fact of it being in a mild way fashionable may do a little good to the eating world in general4 ,and it may make it more easy to convince young women of refined proclivities that the art of cooking is not beneath their attention1 to know that the ,queen of ,england's daughters--and of course the cream of the ,london fair--have attended the lectures on the subject delivered at ,south ,kensington1 and that a young lady of rank1 ,sir ,james ,coles's daughter1 has been recording angel to the association1 is in fact the ,r4 ,c4 ,c4 who edits the ,official ,handbook of ,cookery4 ,but1 notwithstanding all that has been done by ,south ,kensington lectures in ,london and ,miss ,corson's ,cooking ,school in ,new ,york to popularize the culinary art1 one may go into a dozen houses1 and find the ladies of the family with sticky fingers1 scissors1 and gum pot1 busily porcelainizing clay jars1 and not find one where they are as zealously trying to work out the problems of the ,official ,handbook of ,cookery4 ,i have nothing to say against the artistic distractions of the day4 ,anything that will induce love of the beautiful1 and remove from us the possibility of a return to the horrors of hair-cloth and brocatel and crochet tidies1 will be a stride in the right direction4 ,but what ,i do protest against1 is the fact1 that the same refined girls and matrons1 who so love to adorn their houses that they will spend hours improving a pickle jar1 medivalizing their furniture1 or decorating the dinner service1 will shirk everything that pertains to the preparation of food as dirty1 disagreeable drudgery1 and sit down to a commonplace1 ill-prepared meal1 served on those artistic plates1 as complacently as if dainty food were not a refinement2 as if heavy rolls and poor bread1 burnt or greasy steak1 and wilted potatoes did not smack of the shanty1 just as loudly as coarse crockery or rag carpet--indeed far more so2 the carpet and crockery may be due to poverty1 but a dainty meal or its reverse will speak volumes for innate refinement or its lack in the woman who serves it4 ,you see by my speaking of rag carpets and dainty meals in one breath1 that ,i do not consider good things to be the privilege of the rich alone4 ,there are a great many dainty things the household of small or moderate means can have just as easily as the most wealthy4 ,beautiful bread--light1 white1 crisp--costs no more than the tough1 thick-crusted boulder1 with cavities like eye-sockets1 that one so frequently meets with as home-made bread4 ,as ,hood says3 ,who has not met with home-made bread1 ,a heavy compound of putty and lead8 ,delicious coffee is only a matter of care1 not expense--and indeed in ,america the cause of poor food1 even in a boarding-house1 is seldom in the quality of the articles so much as in the preparation and selection of them--yet an epicure can breakfast well with fine bread and butter and good coffee4 ,and this leads me to another thing3 many people think that to give too much attention to food shows gluttony4 ,i have heard a lady say with a tone of virtuous rebuke1 when the conversation turned from fashions to cooking1 ,i give very little time to cooking1 we eat to live only--which is exactly what an animal does4 ,eating to live is mere feeding4 ,brillat-,savarin1 an abstemious eater himself1 among other witty things on the same topic says1 ,l'animal se repait1 l'homme mange1 l'homme d'esprit seul sait manger4 ,nine people out of ten1 when they call a man an epicure1 mean it as a sort of reproach1 a man who is averse to every-day food1 one whom plain fare would fail to satisfy2 but ,grimod de la ,reynire1 the most celebrated gourmet of his day1 author of ,almanach des ,gourmands1 and authority on all matters culinary of the last century1 said1 ,a true epicure can dine well on one dish1 provided it is excellent of its kind4 ,excellent1 that is it4 ,a little care will generally secure to us the refinement of having only on the table what is excellent of its kind4 ,if it is but potatoes and salt1 let the salt be ground fine1 and the potatoes white and mealy4 ,thackeray says1 an epicure is one who never tires of brown bread and fresh butter1 and in this sense every ,new ,yorker who has his rolls from the ,brevoort ,house1 and uses ,darlington butter1 is an epicure4 ,there seems to me1 more mere animalism in wading through a long bill of fare1 eating three or four indifferently cooked vegetables1 fish1 meat1 poultry1 each second-rate in quality1 or made so by bad cooking1 and declaring that you have dined well1 and are easy to please1 than there is in taking pains to have a perfectly broiled chop1 a fine potato1 and a salad1 on which any true epicure could dine well1 while on the former fare he would leave the table hungry4 ,spenser points a moral for me when he says1 speaking of the ,irish in #aehj1 ,that wherever they found a plot of shamrocks or water-cresses they had a feast2 but there were gourmets even among them1 for some gobbled the green food as it came1 and some picked the faultless stalks1 and looked for the bloom on the leaf4 ,thus it is1 when ,i speak of good living1 ,i do not mean expensive living or high living1 but living so that the table may be as elegant as the dishes on which it is served4 ,i believe there exists a feeling1 not often expressed perhaps1 but prevalent among young people1 that for a lady to cook with her own hands is vulgar2 to love to do it shows that she is of low intellectual caliber1 a sort of drawing-room ,bridget4 ,when or how this idea arose it would be difficult to say1 for in the middle ages cooks were often noble2 a ,montmorency was chef de cuisine to ,philip of ,valois2 ,montesquieu descended1 and was not ashamed of his descent1 from the second cook of the ,connetable de ,bourbon1 who ennobled him4 ,and from ,lord ,bacon1 brightest1 greatest1 meanest of mankind1 who took1 it is said1 great interest in cooking1 to ,talleyrand1 the ,machiavelli of ,france1 who spent an hour every day with his cook1 we find great men delighting in the art as a recreation4 ,it is surprising that such an essentially artistic people as ,americans should so neglect an art which a great ,french writer calls the science mignonne of all distinguished men of the world4 ,napoleon the ,great so fully recognized the social value of keeping a good table that1 although no gourmet himself1 he wished all his chief functionaries to be so4 ,keep a good table1 he told them2 if you get into debt for it ,i will pay4 ,and later1 one of his most devoted adherents1 the ,marquis de ,cussy1 out of favor with ,louis ,,xviii4 on account of that very devotion1 found his reputation as a gourmet very serviceable to him4 ,a friend applied for a place at court for him1 which ,louis refused1 till he heard that ,m4 de ,cussy had invented the mixture of cream1 strawberries1 and champagne1 when he granted the petition at once4 ,nor is this a solitary instance in history where culinary skill has been a passport to fortune to its possessor4 ,savarin relates that the ,chevalier d',aubigny1 exiled from ,france1 was in ,london1 in utter poverty1 notwithstanding which1 by chance1 he was invited to dine at a tavern frequented by the young bucks of that day4 ,after he had finished his dinner1 a party of young gentlemen1 who had been observing him from their table1 sent one of their number with many apologies and excuses to beg of him1 as a son of a nation renowned for their salads1 to be kind enough to mix theirs for them4 ,he complied1 and while occupied in making the salad1 told them frankly his story1 and did not hide his poverty4 ,one of the gentlemen1 as they parted1 slipped a five-pound note into his hand1 and his need of it was so great that he did not obey the prompting of his pride1 but accepted it4 ,a few days later he was sent for to a great house1 and learned on his arrival that the young gentleman he had obliged at the tavern had spoken so highly of his salad that they begged him to do the same thing again4 ,a very handsome sum was tendered him on his departure1 and afterwards he had frequent calls on his skill1 until it became the fashion to have salads prepared by d',aubigny1 who became a well-known character in ,london1 and was called the fashionable salad-maker4 ,in a few years he amassed a large fortune by this means1 and was in such request that his carriage would drive from house to house1 carrying him and his various condiments--for he took with him everything that could give variety to his concoctions--from one place1 where his services were needed1 to another4 ,the contempt for this art of cooking is confined to this country1 and to the lower middle classes in ,england4 ,by the lower middle classes ,i mean1 what ,carlyle terms the gigocracy--i4e41 people sufficiently well-to-do to keep a gig or phaeton--well-to-do tradesmen1 small professional men1 the class whose womenkind would call themselves genteel1 and many absurd stories are told of the determined ignorance and pretense of these would-be ladies4 ,but in no class above this is a knowledge of cooking a thing to be ashamed of2 in ,england1 indeed1 so far from that being the case1 indifference to the subject1 or lack of understanding and taste for certain dishes is looked upon as a sort of proof of want of breeding4 ,not to like curry1 macaroni1 or parmesan1 pt de foie gras1 mushrooms1 and such like1 is a sign that you have not been all your life accustomed to good living4 ,mr4 ,hardy1 in his ,pair of ,blue ,eyes1 cleverly hits this prejudice when he makes ,mr4 ,swancourt say1 ,i knew the fellow wasn't a gentleman2 he had no acquired tastes1 never took ,worcestershire sauce4 ,abroad many women of high rank and culture devote a good deal of time to a thorough understanding of the subject4 ,we have a lady of the lordly line of proud ,st4 ,clair writing for us ,dainty ,dishes1 and doing it with a zest that shows she enjoys her work1 although she does once in a while forget something she ought to have mentioned1 and later still we have ,miss ,rose ,coles writing the ,official ,handbook of ,cookery4 ,but it is in graceful1 refined ,france that cookery is and has been1 a pet art4 ,any bill of fare or ,french cookery book will betray to a thoughtful reader the attention given to the subject by the wittiest1 gayest1 and most beautiful women1 and the greatest men4 ,the high-sounding names attached to ,french standard dishes are no mere caprice or homage of a ,french cook to the great in the land1 but actually point out their inventor4 ,thus ,bechamel was invented by the ,marquis de ,bechamel1 as a sauce for codfish2 while ,filets de ,lapereau la ,berry were invented by the ,duchess de ,berry1 daughter of the regent ,orleans1 who himself invented ,pain la d',orleans1 while to ,richelieu we are indebted for hundreds of dishes besides the renowned mayonnaise4 ,cailles la ,mirepois1 ,chartreuse la ,mauconseil1 ,poulets la ,villeroy1 betray the tastes of the three great ladies whose name they bear4 ,but not in courts alone has the art had its devotees4 ,almost every great name in ,french literature brings to mind something its owner said or did about cooking4 ,dumas1 who was a prince of cooks1 and of whom it is related that in #ahfj1 when living at ,varennes1 ,st4 ,maur1 dividing his time1 as usual1 between cooking and literature 7,lorsqu'il ne faisait pas sauter un roman1 il faisait sauter des petits oignons71 on ,mountjoye1 a young artist friend and neighbor1 going to see him1 he cooked dinner for him4 ,going into the poultry yard1 after donning a white apron1 he wrung the neck of a chicken2 then to the kitchen garden for vegetables1 which he peeled and washed himself2 lit the fire1 got butter and flour ready1 put on his saucepans1 then cooked1 stirred1 tasted1 seasoned until dinner time4 ,then he entered in triumph1 and announced1 ,le diner est servi4 ,for six months he passed three or four days a week cooking for ,mountjoye4 ,this novelist's book says1 in connection with the fact that great cooks in ,france have been men of literary culture1 and literary men often fine cooks1 ,it is not surprising that literary men have always formed the entourage of a great chef1 for1 to appreciate thoroughly all there is in the culinary art1 none are so well able as men of letters2 accustomed as they are to all refinements1 they can appreciate better than others those of the table1 thus paying himself and confrres a delicate little compliment at the expense of the non-literary world2 but1 notwithstanding the nave self-glorification1 he states a fact that helps to point my moral1 that indifference to cooking does not indicate refinement1 intellect1 or social pre-eminence4 ,brillat-,savarin1 grave judge as he was1 and abstemious eater1 yet has written the book of books on the art of eating4 ,it was he who said1 ,tell me what you eat1 ,i will tell you what you are1 as pregnant with truth as the better-known proverb it paraphrases4 ,malherbe loved to watch his cook at work4 ,i think it was he who said1 ,a coarse-minded man could never be a cook1 and ,charles ,baudelaire1 the ,poe of ,france1 takes a poet's view of our daily wants1 when he says1 that an ideal cook must have a great deal of the poet's nature1 combining something of the voluptuary with the man of science learned in the chemical principles of matter2 although he goes further than we care to follow when he says1 that the question of sauces and seasoning requires a chapter as grave as a feuilleton de science4 ,it has been said by foreigners that ,americans care nothing for the refinements of the table1 but ,i think they do care4 ,i have known many a woman in comfortable circumstances long to have a good table1 many a man aspire to better things1 and if he could only get them at home would pay any money4 ,but the getting them at home is the difficulty2 on a table covered with exquisite linen1 glass1 and silver1 whose presiding queen is more likely than not a type of the ,american lady--graceful1 refined1 and witty--on such a table1 with such surroundings1 will come the plentiful1 coarse1 commonplace dinner4 ,the chief reason for this is lack of knowledge on the part of our ladies3 know how to do a thing yourself1 and you will get it well done by others4 ,but how are many of them to know8 ,the daughters of the wealthy in this country often marry struggling men1 and they know less about domestic economy than ladies of the higher ranks abroad2 not because ,english or ,french ladies take more part in housekeeping1 but because they are at home all their lives4 ,ladies of the highest rank never go to a boarding or any other school1 and these are the women who1 with some few exceptions1 know best how things should be done4 ,they are at home listening to criticisms from papa1 who is an epicure perhaps1 on the shortcomings of his own table1 or his neighbors'2 from mamma1 as to what the soup lacks1 why cook is not a cordon bleu1 etc41 while our girls are at school1 far away from domestic comments1 deep in the agonies of algebra perhaps2 and directly they leave school1 in many cases they marry4 ,as a preparation for the state of matrimony most of them learn how to make cake and preserves1 and the very excellence of their attainments in that way proves how easy it would be for them1 with their dainty fingers and good taste1 to far excel their ,european cousins in that art which a ,french writer says is based on reason1 health1 common sense1 and sound taste4 ,here let me say1 ,i do not by any means advocate a woman1 who can afford to pay a first-rate cook1 avoiding the expense by cooking herself2 on the contrary1 ,i think no woman is justified in doing work herself that she has the means given her to get done by employing others4 ,i have no praise for the economical woman1 who1 from a desire to save1 does her own work without necessity for economy4 ,it is not her work2 the moment she can afford to employ others it is the work of some less fortunate person4 ,but in this country1 it often happens that a good cook is not to be found for money1 although the raw material of which one might be made is much oftener at hand4 ,and if ladies would only practice the culinary art with as much1 nay1 half as much assiduity as they give to a new pattern in crochet2 devote as much time to attaining perfection in one dish or article of food1 be it perfect bread1 or some ,french dish which father1 brother1 or husband goes to ,delmonico's to enjoy1 as they do to the crochet tidies or embroidered rugs with which they decorate their drawing-rooms1 they could then take the material1 in the shape of any ambitious girl they may meet with1 and make her a fine cook4 ,in the time they take to make a dozen tidies1 they would have a dozen dishes at their fingers' ends2 and let me tell you1 the woman who can cook a dozen things1 outside of preserves1 in a perfect manner is a rarity here1 and a good cook anywhere1 for1 by the time the dozen are accomplished1 she will have learned so much of the art of cooking that all else will come easy4 ,one good soup1 bouillon1 and you have the foundation of all others2 two good sauces1 white sauce and brown1 les sauces mres as the ,french call them 7mothers of all other sauces71 and all others are matters of detail4 ,learn to make one kind of roll perfectly1 as light1 plump1 and crisp as ,delmonico's1 and all varieties are at your fingers' ends2 you can have kringles1 ,vienna rolls1 ,kreuznach horns1 ,yorkshire tea cakes1 ,english ,sally ,lunns and ,bath buns2 all are then as easy to make as common soda biscuit4 ,in fact1 in cooking1 as in many other things1 ce n'est que le premier pas que cote2 failures are almost certain at the beginning1 but a failure is often a step toward success--if we only know the reason of the failure4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,on ,,bread4 ,,of all articles of food1 bread is perhaps the one about which most has been written1 most instruction given1 and most failures made4 ,yet what adds more to the elegance of a table than exquisite bread or breads1 and--unless you live in a large city and depend on the baker--what so rare8 ,a lady who is very proud of her table1 and justly so1 said to me quite lately1 ,i cannot understand how it is we never have really fine home-made bread4 ,i have tried many recipes1 following them closely1 and ,i can't achieve anything but a commonplace loaf with a thick1 hard crust2 and as for rolls1 they are my despair4 ,i have wasted eggs1 butter1 and patience so often that ,i have determined to give them up1 but a fine loaf ,i will try for4 ,and when you achieve the fine loaf1 you may revel in home-made rolls1 ,i answered4 ,and so ,i advise every one first to make perfect bread1 light1 white1 crisp1 and thin-crusted1 that rarest thing in home-made bread4 ,i have read over many recipes for bread1 and am convinced that when the time allowed for rising is specified1 it is invariably too short4 ,one standard book directs you to leave your sponge two hours1 and the bread when made up a quarter of an hour4 ,this recipe strictly followed must result in heavy1 tough bread4 ,as bread is so important1 and so many fail1 ,i will give my own method from beginning to end2 not that there are not numberless good recipes1 but simply because they frequently need adapting to circumstances1 and altering a recipe is one of the things a tyro fears to do4 ,i make a sponge over night1 using a dried yeast-cake soaked in a pint of warm water1 to which ,i add a spoonful of salt1 and1 if the weather is warm1 as much soda as will lie on a dime2 make this into a stiff batter with flour--it may take a quart or less1 flour varies so much1 to give a rule is impossible2 but if1 after standing1 the sponge has a watery appearance1 make it thicker by sprinkling in more flour1 beat hard a few minutes1 and cover with a cloth--in winter keep a piece of thick flannel for the purpose1 as a chill is fatal to your sponge--and set in a warm place free from draughts4 ,the next morning1 when the sponge is quite light--that is to say1 at least twice the bulk it was1 and like a honeycomb--take two quarts of flour1 more or less1 as you require1 but ,i recommend at first a small baking1 and this will make three small loaves2 in winter1 flour should be dried and warmed2 put it in your mixing bowl1 and turn the sponge into a hole in the center4 ,have ready some water1 rather more than lukewarm1 but not hot4 ,add it gradually1 stirring your flour into the sponge at the same time4 ,the great fault in making bread is getting the dough too stiff2 it should be as soft as possible1 without being at all sticky or wet4 ,now knead it with both hands from all sides into the center2 keep this motion1 occasionally dipping your hands into the flour if the dough sticks1 but do not add more flour unless the paste sticks very much2 if you have the right consistency it will be a smooth mass1 very soft to the touch1 yet not sticky1 but this may not be attained at a first mixing without adding flour by degrees4 ,when you have kneaded the dough until it leaves the bowl all round1 set it in a warm place to rise4 ,when it is well risen1 feels very soft and warm to the touch1 and is twice its bulk1 knead it once more thoroughly1 then put it in tins either floured1 and the flour not adhering shaken out1 or buttered1 putting in each a piece of dough half the size you intend your loaf to be4 ,now everything depends on your oven4 ,many people bake their bread slowly1 leaving it in the oven a long time1 and this causes a thick1 hard crust4 ,when baked in the modern iron oven1 quick baking is necessary4 ,let the oven be quite hot1 then put a little ball of paste in1 and if it browns palely in seven to ten minutes it is about right2 if it burns1 it is too hot2 open the damper ten minutes4 ,your bread1 after it is in the tins1 will rise much more quickly than the first time4 ,let it get light1 but not too light--twice its bulk is a good rule2 but if it is light before your oven is ready1 and thus in danger of getting too porous1 work it down with your hand1 it will not harm it1 although it is better so to manage that the oven waits for the bread rather than the bread for the oven4 ,a small loaf--and by all means make them small until you have gained experience--will not take more than three quarters of an hour to bake2 when a nice yellow brown1 take it out1 turn it out of the tin into a cloth1 and tap the bottom2 if it is crisp and smells cooked1 the loaf is done4 ,once the bottom is brown it need remain no longer4 ,should that1 however1 from fault of your oven1 be not brown1 but soft and white1 you must put it back in the oven1 the bottom upwards4 ,an oven that does not bake at the bottom will1 however1 be likely to spoil your bread4 ,it is sometimes caused by a careless servant leaving a collection of ashes underneath it2 satisfy yourself that all the flues are perfectly clean and clear before beginning to bake1 and if it still refuses to do its duty1 change it1 for you will have nothing but loss and vexation of spirit while you have it in use4 ,i think you will find this bread white1 evenly porous 7not with small holes in one part and caverns in another2 if it is so you have made your dough too stiff1 and it is not sufficiently kneaded71 and with a thin1 crisp crust4 ,bread will surely fail to rise at all if you have scalded the yeast2 the water must never be too hot4 ,in winter1 if it gets chilled1 it will only rise slowly1 or not at all1 and in using baker's or ,german yeast take care that it is not stale1 which will cause heavy1 irregular bread4 ,in making bread with compressed yeast proceed in exactly the same way1 excepting that the sponge will not need to be set over night1 unless you want to bake very early4 ,if you have once produced bread to your satisfaction you will find no difficulty in making rolls4 ,proceed as follows3 ,take a piece of the dough from your baking after it has risen once4 ,to a piece as large as a man's fist take a large tablespoonful of butter and a little powdered sugar2 work them into the dough1 put it in a bowl1 cover it1 and set it in a warm place to rise--a shelf behind the stove is best2 if you make this at the same time as your bread1 you will find it takes longer to rise2 the butter causes that difference2 when very light1 much lighter than your bread should be1 take your hand and push it down till it is not larger than when you put it in the bowl2 let it rise again1 and again push it down1 but not so thoroughly2 do this once or twice more1 and you have the secret of light rolls4 ,you will find them rise very quickly1 after once or twice pushing down4 ,when they have risen the third or fourth time1 take a little butter on your hands1 and break off small pieces about the size of a walnut and roll them round4 ,either put them on a tin close together1 to be broken apart1 or an inch or two from each other1 in which case work in a little more flour1 and cut a cleft on the top1 and once more set to rise2 half an hour will be long enough generally1 but in this case you must judge for yourself1 they sometimes take an hour2 if they look swelled very much and smooth they will be ready4 ,have a nice hot oven1 and bake for twelve to fifteen minutes4 ,add a little more sugar to your dough and an egg1 go through the same process1 brush them over with sugar dissolved in milk1 and you will have delicious rusks4 ,the above is my own method of making rolls1 and the simplest ,i know of2 but there are numbers of other recipes given in cookery books which would be just as good if the exact directions for letting them rise were given4 ,as a test--and every experiment you try will be so much gained in your experience--follow the recipe given for rolls in any good cookery book1 take part of the dough and let it rise as therein directed1 and bake1 set the other part to rise as ,i direct1 and notice the difference4 ,,kreuznach ,,horns4--,either take a third of the dough made for bread with three quarts of flour1 or set a sponge with a pint of flour and a yeast-cake soaked in half a pint of warm water or milk1 making it into a stiffish dough with another pint of flour2 then add four ounces of butter1 a little sugar1 and two eggs2 work well4 ,if you use the bread dough1 you will need to dredge in a little more flour on account of the eggs1 but not very much2 then set to rise as for rolls1 work it down twice or thrice1 then turn the dough out on the molding board lightly floured1 roll it as you would pie-crust into pieces six inches square1 and quarter of an inch thick1 make two sharp1 quick cuts across it from corner to corner1 and you will have from each square four three-cornered pieces of paste2 spread each thinly with soft butter1 flour lightly1 and roll up very lightly from the wide side1 taking care that it is not squeezed together in any way2 lay them on a tin with the side on which the point comes uppermost1 and bend round in the form of a horseshoe2 these will take some time to rise2 when they have swollen much and look light1 brush them over with white of egg 7not beaten7 or milk and butter1 and bake in a good oven4 ,,kringles are made from the same recipe1 but with another egg and two ounces of sugar 7powdered7 added to the dough when first set to rise2 then1 when well risen two or three times1 instead of rolling with a pin as for horns1 break off pieces1 roll between your hands as thick as your finger1 and form into figure eights1 rings1 fingers2 or take three strips1 flour and roll them as thick as your finger1 tapering at each end2 lay them on the board1 fasten the three together at one end1 and then lay one over the other in a plait1 fasten the other end1 and set to rise1 bake2 when done1 brush over with sugar dissolved in milk1 and sprinkle with sugar4 ,all these breads are delicious for breakfast1 and may easily be had without excessive early rising if the sponge is set in the morning1 dough made in the afternoon1 and the rising and working done in the evening2 when1 instead of making up into rolls1 horns1 or kringles1 push the dough down thoroughly1 cover with a damp folded cloth1 and put in a very cold place if in summer--not on ice of course--then next morning1 as soon as the fire is alight1 mold1 but do not push down any more1 put in a very warm spot1 and when light1 bake4 ,in summer1 as ,i have said1 ,i think it safest1 to prevent danger of souring1 to put a little soda in the sponge for bread2 and for rolls1 or anything requiring to rise several times1 it is an essential precaution4 ,,brioche4--,i suppose the very name of this delectable ,french dainty will call up in the mind's eye of many who read this book that great little shop1 ,au ,grand ,brioche1 on the ,boulevarde ,poissonire1 where1 on ,sunday afternoons1 scores of boys from the ,lyces form en queue with the general public1 waiting the hour when the piles of golden brioche shall be ready to exchange for their eager sous4 ,but ,i venture to say1 a really fine brioche is rarely eaten on this side the ,atlantic4 ,they being a luxury welcome to all1 and especially aromatic of ,paris1 ,i tried many times to make them1 obtaining for that purpose recipes from ,french friends1 and from standard ,french books1 but never succeeded in producing the ideal brioche until ,i met with ,gouff's great book1 the ,livre de ,cuisine1 after reading which1 ,i may here say1 all secrets of the ,french kitchen are laid bare2 no effort is spared to make everything plain1 from the humble pot-au-feu to the most gorgeous monumental plt4 ,and ,i would refer any one who wants to become proficient in any ,french dish1 to that book1 feeling sure that1 in following strictly the directions1 there will be no failure4 ,it is the one book ,i have met with on the subject in which no margin is left for your own knowledge1 if you have it1 to fill up4 ,but to the brioche4 ,,paris ,,jockey-,,club ,,recipe ,,for ,,brioche4 ,sift one pound of flour1 take one fourth of it1 and add rather more than half a cake of compressed yeast1 dissolved in half a gill of warm water1 make into a sponge with a very little more water1 put it in a warm place2 when it is double its volume take the rest of the flour1 make a hole in the center1 and put in it an equal quantity of salt and sugar1 about a teaspoonful1 and two tablespoonfuls of water to dissolve them4 ,three quarters of a pound of butter and four eggs1 beat well1 then add another egg1 beat again1 and add another1 and so on until seven have been used2 the paste must be soft1 but not spread2 if too firm1 add another egg4 ,now mix this paste with the sponge thoroughly1 beating until the paste leaves the sides of the bowl1 then put it in a crock and cover2 let it stand four hours in a warm place1 then turn it out on a board1 spread it and double it four times1 return it to the crock1 and let it rise again two hours2 repeat the former process of doubling and spreading1 and put it in a very cold place for two hours1 or until you want to use it4 ,mold in any form you like1 but the true brioche is two pieces1 one as large again as the other2 form the large one into a ball1 make a deep depression in the center1 on which place the smaller ball1 pressing it gently in2 cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp knife1 and bake a beautiful golden brown4 ,these brioche are such a luxury1 and so sure to come out right1 that the trouble of making them is well worth the taking1 and for another reason3 every one knows the great difficulty of making puff paste in summer1 and a short paste is never handsome2 but take a piece of brioche paste1 roll it out thin1 dredge with flour1 fold and roll again1 then use as you would puff paste2 if for sweet pastry1 a little powdered sugar may be sprinkled through it instead of dredging with flour4 ,this makes a very handsome and delicious crust4 ,or1 another use to which it may be put is to roll it out1 cut it in rounds1 lay on them mince-meat1 orange marmalade1 jam1 or merely sprinkle with currants1 chopped citron1 and spices1 fold1 press the edges1 and bake4 ,before quitting the subject of breads ,i must introduce a novelty which ,i will call souffle bread4 ,it is quickly made1 possible even when the fire is poor1 and so delicious that ,i know you will thank me for making you acquainted with it4 ,use two or three eggs according to size you wish1 and to each egg a tablespoonful of flour4 ,mix the yolks with the flour and with them a dessert-spoonful of butter melted1 and enough milk to make a very thick batter1 work1 add a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar1 work till quite smooth1 then add the whites of the eggs in a firm froth1 stir them in gently1 and add a quarter teaspoonful of soda and half a one of cream of tartar4 ,have ready an iron frying-pan 7or an earthen one that will stand heat is better71 made hot with a tablespoonful of butter in it1 also hot1 but not so hot as for frying4 ,pour the batter 7which should be of the consistency of sponge cake batter7 into the pan1 cover it with a lid or tin plate1 and set it back of the stove if the fire is hot--if very slow it may be forward2 when well risen and near done1 put it in the oven1 or if the oven is cold you may turn it gently1 not to deaden it4 ,serve when done 7try with a twig71 the under side uppermost2 it should be of a fine golden brown and look like an omelet4 ,this souffle bread is equally good baked in a tin in which is rather more butter than enough to grease it2 the oven must be very hot indeed4 ,cover it for the few minutes with a tin plate or lid1 to prevent it scorching before it has risen2 when it has puffed up remove the lid1 and allow it to brown1 ten to fifteen minutes should bake it2 turn it out as you would sponge cake--very carefully1 not to deaden it4 ,to succeed with bread you must use the very best flour4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,pastry4 ,,to ,,make good puff paste is a thing many ladies are anxious to do1 and in which they generally fail1 and this not so much because they do not make it properly1 as because they handle it badly4 ,a lady who was very anxious to excel in pastry once asked me to allow her to watch me make paste4 ,i did so1 and explained that there was more in the manner of using than in the making up4 ,i then gave her a piece of my paste when completed1 and asked her to cover some patty pans while ,i covered others1 cautioning her as to the way she must cover them2 yet1 when those covered by her came out of the oven they had not risen at all1 they were like rich short paste2 while my own1 made from the same paste1 were toppling over with lightness4 ,i had1 without saying anything1 pressed my thumb slightly on one spot of one of mine2 in that spot the paste had not risen at all1 and ,i think this practical demonstration of what ,i had tried to explain was more useful than an hour's talk would have been4 ,i will first give my method of making1 which is the usual ,french way of making feuilletonage4 ,take one pound of butter1 or half of it lard2 press all the water out by squeezing it in a cloth2 this is important1 as the liquid in it would wet your paste2 take a third of the butter1 or butter and lard1 and rub it into one pound of fine flour2 add no salt if your butter is salted2 then take enough water 7to which you may add the well-beaten white of an egg1 but it is not absolutely necessary7 to make the flour into a smooth1 firm dough2 it must not be too stiff1 or it will be hard to roll out1 or too soft1 or it will never make good paste2 it should roll easily1 yet not stick2 work it till it is very smooth1 then roll it out till it is half an inch thick2 now lay the whole of the butter in the center1 fold one-third the paste over1 then the other third2 it is now folded in three1 with the butter completely hidden2 now turn the ends toward you1 and roll it till it is half an inch thick1 taking care1 by rolling very evenly1 that the butter is not pressed out at the other end2 now you have a piece of paste about two feet long1 and not half that width2 flour it lightly1 and fold over one third and under one third1 which will almost bring it to a square again2 turn it round so that what was the side is now the end1 and roll4 ,most likely now the butter will begin to break through1 in which case fold it1 after flouring lightly1 in three1 as before1 and put it on a dish on the ice1 covering it with a damp cloth4 ,you may now either leave it for an hour or two1 or till next day4 ,paste made the day before it is used is much better and easier to manage1 and in winter it may be kept for four or five days in a cold place1 using from it as required4 ,when ready to use your paste finish the making by rolling it out1 dredging a little flour1 and doubling it in three as before1 and roll it out thin2 do this until from first to last it has been so doubled and rolled seven times4 ,great cooks differ on one or two points in making pastry2 for instance1 ,soyer directs you to put the yolk of an egg instead of the white1 and a squeeze of lemon juice into the flour1 and expressly forbids you to work it before adding the mass of butter1 while ,jules ,gouff says1 work it until smooth and shining4 ,i cannot pretend to decide between these differing doctors1 but ,i pursue the method ,i have given and always have light pastry4 ,and now to the handling of it3 ,it must only be touched by the lightest fingers1 every cut must be made with a sharp knife1 and done with one quick stroke so that the paste is not dragged at all2 in covering a pie dish or patty pan1 you are commonly directed to mold the paste over it as thin as possible1 which conveys the idea that the paste is to be pressed over and so made thin2 this would destroy the finest paste in the world2 roll it thin1 say for small tartlets1 less than a quarter of an inch thick1 for a pie a trifle thicker1 then lay the dish or tin to be covered on the paste1 and cut out with a knife1 dipped in hot water or flour1 a piece a little larger than the mold1 then line with the piece you have cut1 touching it as little as possible2 press only enough to make the paste adhere to the bottom1 but on no account press the border2 to test the necessity of avoiding this1 gently press one spot on a tart1 before putting it in the oven1 only so much as many people always do in making pie1 and watch the result4 ,when your tartlets or pies are made1 take each up on your left hand1 and with a sharp knife dipped in flour trim it round quickly4 ,to make the cover of a pie adhere to the under crust1 lay the forefinger of your right hand lengthwise round the border1 but as far from the edge as you can1 thus forming a groove for the syrups1 and pressing the cover on at the same time4 ,a word here about fruit pies3 ,pile the fruit high in the center1 leaving a space all round the sides almost bare of fruit1 when the cover is on press gently the paste1 as ,i have explained1 into this groove1 then make two or three deep holes in the groove2 the juice will boil out of these holes and run round this groove1 instead of boiling out through the edges and wasting4 ,this is the pastry-cook's way of making pies1 and makes a much handsomer one than the usual flat method1 besides saving your syrup4 ,to ornament fruit pies or tartlets1 whip the white of an egg1 and stir in as much powdered sugar as will make a thin meringue--a large tablespoonful is usually enough--then when your pies or tartlets are baked1 take them from the oven1 glaze with the egg and sugar1 and return to the oven1 leaving the door open2 when it has set into a frosty icing they are ready to serve4 ,it is worth while to accomplish puff paste1 for so many dainty trifles may be made with it1 which1 attempted with the ordinary short paste1 would be unsightly4 ,some of these that seem to me novel ,i will describe4 ,rissolettes are made with trimmings of puff paste2 if you have about a quarter of a pound left1 roll it out very thin1 about as thick as a fifty-cent piece2 put about half a spoonful of marmalade or jam on it1 in places about an inch apart1 wet lightly round each1 and place a piece of paste over all2 take a small round cutter as large as a dollar1 and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is with the thick part of the cutter2 then cut them out with a cutter a size larger1 lay them on a baking tin1 brush over with white of egg2 then cut some little rings the size of a quarter dollar1 put one on each1 egg over again1 and bake twenty minutes in a nice hot oven2 then sift white sugar all over1 put them back in the oven to glaze2 a little red currant jelly in each ring looks pretty2 serve in the form of a pyramid4 ,,pastry ,,tablets4--,cut strips of paste three inches and a half long1 and an inch and a half wide1 and as thick as a twenty-five cent piece2 lay on half of them a thin filmy layer of jam or marmalade1 not jelly2 then on each lay a strip without jam1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,when the paste is well risen and brown1 take them out1 glaze them with white of egg and sugar1 and sprinkle chopped almonds over them2 return to the oven till the glazing is set and the almonds just colored2 serve them hot or cold on a napkin piled log-cabin fashion4 ,,frangipan ,,tartlets4--,one quarter pint of cream1 four yolks of eggs1 two ounces of flour1 three macaroons1 four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 the peel of a grated lemon1 and a little citron cut very fine1 a little brandy and orange-flower water4 ,put all the ingredients1 except the eggs1 in a saucepan--of course you will mix the flour smooth in the cream first--let them come to a boil slowly1 stirring to prevent lumps2 when the flour smells cooked1 take it off the fire for a minute1 then stir the beaten yolks of eggs into it4 ,stand the saucepan in another of boiling water and return to the stove1 stirring till the eggs seem done--about five minutes1 if the water boils all the time4 ,line patty pans with puff paste1 and fill with frangipan and bake4 ,ornament with chopped almonds and meringue1 or not1 as you please4 ,it is very difficult to make fine puff paste in warm weather1 and almost impossible without ice2 for this reason ,i think the brioche paste preferable2 but if it is necessary to have it for any purpose1 you must take the following precautions3 ,have your water iced2 have your butter as firm as possible by being kept on ice till the last moment2 make the paste in the coolest place you have1 and under the breeze of an open window1 if possible2 make it the day before you use it1 and put it on the ice between every turn1 as each rolling out is technically called2 then leave it on the ice1 as you use it1 taking pieces from it as you need them1 so that the warmth cannot soften the whole at once1 when it would become quite unmanageable4 ,the condition of the oven is a very important matter1 and ,i cannot do better than transcribe the rules given by ,gouff1 by which you may test its fitness for any purpose3 ,put half a sheet of writing paper in the oven2 if it catches fire it is too hot2 open the dampers and wait ten minutes1 when put in another piece of paper2 if it blackens it is still too hot4 ,ten minutes later put in a third piece2 if it gets dark brown the oven is right for all small pastry4 ,called dark brown paper heat4 ,light brown paper heat is suitable for vol-au-vents or fruit pies4 ,dark yellow paper heat for large pieces of pastry or meat pies1 pound cake1 bread1 etc4 ,light yellow paper heat for sponge cake1 meringues1 etc4 ,to obtain these various degrees of heat1 you try paper every ten minutes till the heat required for your purpose is attained4 ,but remember that light yellow means the paper only tinged2 dark yellow1 the paper the color of ordinary pine wood2 light brown is only a shade darker1 about the color of nice pie-crust1 and dark brown a shade darker1 by no means coffee color4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,what ,,to ,,have ,,in ,,your ,,store-,,room4 ,,one great trouble with many young housekeepers is betrayed by the common remark1 ,cookery books always require so many things that one never has in the house1 and they coolly order you to 'moisten with gravy1' 'take a little gravy1' as if you had only to go to the pump and get it4 ,it is very true that economy in cooking is much aided by having a supply of various condiments2 warmed-over meat may then be converted into a delicious little entre with little trouble4 ,i would recommend1 therefore1 any one who is in earnest about reforming her dinner table to begin by expending a few dollars in the following articles3 #a bottle of capers1 #a olives1 #a gherkins1 #a soy1 #a anchovies1 #a tarragon vinegar1 #a claret1 #a white wine1 #a sherry for cooking1 #a brandy1 #a ,harvey sauce1 #a walnut ketchup4 ,and a package of compressed vegetables and a few bay leaves4 ,ten dollars thus spent may seem a good deal of money to a young housewife trying to make her husband's salary go as far as it will2 but ,i assure her it is in the end an economy1 especially in a small family1 who are so apt to get tired of seeing the same thing1 that it has to be thrown or given away4 ,with these condiments and others ,i have yet to mention you will have no trouble in using every scrap2 not using it and eating it from a sense of duty1 and wishing it was something better1 but enjoying it4 ,with your store-room well provided1 you can indeed go for gravy as if to the pump4 ,besides the foregoing list of articles to be bought of any good grocer1 there are others which can be made at home to advantage1 and once made are always ready4 ,mushroom powder ,i prefer for any use to mushroom catsup2 it is easily made and its uses are infinite4 ,sprinkled over steak 7when it must be sifted7 or chops1 it is delicious4 ,for ordinary purposes1 such as flavoring soup or gravy1 it need not be sifted4 ,to prepare it1 take a peck of large and very fresh mushrooms1 look them over carefully that they are not wormy1 then cleanse them with a piece of flannel from sand or grit1 then peel them and put them in the sun or a cool oven to dry2 they require long1 slow drying1 and must become in a state to crumble4 ,your peck will have diminished by the process into half a pint or less of mushroom powder1 but you have the means with it of making a rich gravy at a few minutes' notice4 ,apropos of gravies--that much-vexed question in small households--for without gravies on hand you cannot make good hash1 or many other things that are miserable without1 and excellent with it4 ,yet how difficult it is to have gravy always on hand every mistress of a small family knows1 in spite of the constant advice to save your trimming to make stock4 ,do by all means save your bones1 gristle1 odds and ends of meat of all kinds1 and convert them into broth2 but even if you do1 it often happens that the days you have done so no gravy is required1 and then it sours quickly in summer1 although it may be arrested by reboiling4 ,in no family of three or four are there odds and ends enough1 unless there is a very extravagant table kept1 to insure stock for every day4 ,my remedy for this1 then1 is to make a stock that will keep for months or years--in other words1 glaze4 ,so very rarely forming part of a housewife's stores1 yet so valuable that the fact is simply astonishing2 with a piece of glaze1 you have a dish of soup on an emergency1 rich gravy for any purpose1 and all with the expenditure of less time than would make a pot of sweetmeats4 ,take six pounds of a knuckle of veal or leg of beef1 cut it in pieces the size of an egg1 as also half a pound of lean ham2 then rub a quarter of a pound of butter on the bottom of your pot1 which should hold two gallons2 then put in the meat with half a pint of water1 three middle-sized onions1 with two cloves in each1 a turnip1 a carrot1 and a small head of celery2 then place over a quick fire1 occasionally stirring it round1 until the bottom of the pot is covered with a thick glaze1 which will adhere lightly to the spoon2 then fill up the pot with cold water1 and when on the boiling point1 draw it to the back of the stove1 where it may gently simmer three hours1 if veal1 six if beef1 carefully skimming it to remove scum4 ,this stock1 as it is1 will make a delicious foundation1 with the addition of salt1 for all kinds of clear soup or gravies4 ,to reduce it to glaze proceed as follows3 ,pass the stock through a fine hair sieve or cloth into a pan2 then fill up the pot again with hot water1 and let it boil four hours longer to obtain all the glutinous part from the meat2 strain1 and pour both stocks in a large pot or stew-pan together2 set it over the fire1 and let it boil as fast as possible with the lid off1 leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over1 and to stir occasionally4 ,when reduced to about three pints1 pour it into a small stew-pan or saucepan1 set again to boil1 but more slowly1 skimming it if necessary2 when it is reduced to a quart1 set it where it will again boil quickly1 stirring it well with a wooden spoon until it begins to get thick and of a fine yellowish-brown color2 at this point be careful it does not burn4 ,you may either pour it into a pot for use1 or1 what is more convenient for making gravies1 get a sausage skin from your butcher1 cut a yard of it1 tie one end very tightly1 then pour into it by means of a large funnel the glaze2 from this cut slices for use4 ,a thick slice dissolved in hot water makes a cup of nutritious soup1 into which you may put any cooked vegetables1 or rice1 or barley4 ,a piece is very useful to take on a journey1 especially for an invalid who does not want to depend on wayside hotel food1 or is tired of beef-tea4 ,the foregoing is the orthodox recipe for glaze1 and if you have to buy meat for the purpose the very best way in which you can make it2 but if it happen that you have some strong meat soup or jelly1 for which you have no use while fresh1 then boil it down till it is thick and brown 7not burnt72 it will be excellent glaze2 not so fine in flavor1 perhaps1 but it preserves to good use what would otherwise be lost4 ,very many people do not know the value of pork for making jelly4 ,if you live in the country and kill a pig1 use his hocks for making glaze instead of beef4 ,glaze also adds much to the beauty of many dishes4 ,if roast beef is not quite brown enough on any one spot set your jar of glaze--for this purpose it is well to have some put in a jar as well as in the skin--in boiling water4 ,keep a small stiff brush2 such as are sold for the purpose at house-furnishing stores1 called a glazing brush1 are best2 but you may manage with any other or even a stiff feather4 ,when the glaze softens1 as glue would do1 brush over your meat with it1 it will give the lacking brown2 or1 if you have a ham or tongue you wish to decorate you may varnish it1 as it were1 with the melted glaze2 then when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream1 and with a kitchen syringe1 if you have one1 a stiff paper funnel if you have not1 trace any design you please on the glazed surface2 this makes a very handsome dish1 and if your ham has been properly boiled will be very satisfactory to the palate4 ,of the boiling of ham ,i will speak in another chapter4 ,i have a few more articles to recommend for your store-room1 and then ,i think you will find yourself equal to the emergency of providing an elegant little meal if called upon unexpectedly1 provided you have any cold scraps at all in the house1 and matre d'htel butter4 ,to make the latter1 take half a pound of fine butter1 one tablespoonful of very fresh parsley1 chopped not too fine1 salt1 pepper1 and a small tablespoonful of lemon juice2 mix together1 but do not work more than sufficient for that purpose1 and pack in a jar1 keeping it in a cool place4 ,a tablespoonful of this laid in a hot dish on which you serve beefsteak1 chops1 or any kind of fish1 is a great addition1 and turns plain boiled potatoes into pomme de terre la matre d'htel4 ,it is excellent with stewed potatoes1 or added to anything for which parsley is needed1 and not always at hand2 a spoonful with half the quantity of flour stirred into a gill of milk or water makes the renowned matre d'htel sauce 7or ,english parsley butter7 for boiled fish1 mutton1 or veal4 ,in short1 it is one of the most valuable things to have in the house4 ,equally valuable1 even1 and more elegant is the preparation known as ,ravigotte or ,montpellier butter4 ,take one pound in equal quantities of chervil1 tarragon1 burnet 7pimpernel71 chives1 and garden cress 7peppergrass72 scald two minutes1 drain quite dry2 pound in a mortar three hard eggs1 three anchovies1 and one scant ounce of pickled cucumbers1 and same quantity of capers well pressed to extract the vinegar2 add salt1 pepper1 and a bit of garlic half as large as a pea1 rub all through a sieve2 then put a pound of fine butter into the mortar1 which must be well cleansed from the herbs1 add the herbs1 with two tablespoonfuls of oil and one of tarragon vinegar1 mix perfectly1 and if not of a fine green1 add the juice of some pounded spinach4 ,this is the celebrated beurre de ,montpellier sold in ,paris in tiny jars at a high price4 ,ravigotte is the same thing1 only in place of the eggs1 anchovies1 pickles1 and capers1 put half a pound more butter2 it is good1 but less piquant4 ,pack in a jar1 and keep cool4 ,this butter is excellent for many purposes4 ,for salad1 beaten with oil1 vinegar1 and yolks of eggs1 as for mayonnaise1 it makes a delicious dressing4 ,for cold meat or fish it is excellent1 and also for chops4 ,two or three other articles serve to simplify the art of cooking in its especially difficult branches1 and in the branches a lady finds difficult to attend to herself without remaining in the kitchen until the last minute before dinner2 but with the aid of blanc and roux a fairly intelligent girl can make excellent sauces4 ,for roux melt slowly half a pound of butter over the fire1 skim it1 let it settle1 then dredge in eight ounces of fine flour1 stir it till it is of a bright brown1 then put away in a jar for use4 ,blanc is the same thing1 only it is not allowed to brown2 it should be stirred only enough to make all hot through1 then put away in a jar4 ,if you need thickening for a white sauce and do not wish to stand over it yourself1 having taught your cook the simple fact that a piece of blanc put into the milk before it boils 7or it will harden instead of melt7 and allowed to dissolve1 stirring constantly1 will make the sauce you wish1 she will be able at all times to produce a white sauce that you need not be ashamed of4 ,when the sauce is nearly ready to serve1 stir in a good piece of butter--a large spoonful to half a pint2 when mixed1 the sauce is ready4 ,brown sauce can always be made by taking a cup of broth or soup and dissolving in the same way a piece of the roux2 and also1 if desired1 a piece of ,montpellier butter4 ,if there is no soup of course you make it with a piece of glaze4 ,brown flour is also a convenient thing to have ready2 it is simply cooking flour in the oven until it is a pale brown2 if it is allowed to get dark it will be bitter1 and1 that it may brown evenly1 it requires to be laid on a large flat baking pan and stirred often4 ,useful for thickening stews1 hash1 etc4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,luncheon4 ,,luncheon is usually1 in this country1 either a forlorn meal of cold meat or hash1 or else a sort of early dinner1 both of which are a mistake4 ,if it is veritably luncheon1 and not early dinner1 it should be as unlike that later meal as possible for variety's sake1 and1 in any but very small families1 there are so many dishes more suitable for luncheon than any other meal1 that it is easy to have great variety with very little trouble4 ,i wish it were more the fashion here to have many of the cold dishes which are popular on the other side the ,atlantic2 and1 in spite of the fact that table prejudices are very difficult to get over1 ,i will append a few recipes in the hope that some lady1 more progressive than prejudiced1 may give them a trial1 convinced that their excellence1 appearance1 and convenience will win them favor4 ,by having most dishes cold at luncheon1 it makes it a distinct meal from the hot breakfast and dinner4 ,in summer1 the cold food and a salad is especially refreshing2 in winter1 a nice hot soup or pure--thick soup is preferable at luncheon to clear1 which is well fitted to precede a heavy meal--and some savory entre are very desirable1 while cold raised pie1 galantine1 jellied fish1 and potted meats may ever1 at that season1 find their appropriate place on the luncheon table4 ,the potatoes1 which are the only vegetable introduced at strict lunch1 should be prepared in some fancy manner1 as croquettes1 mashed and browned1 la matre d'htel1 or in snow4 ,the latter mode is pretty and novel2 ,i will1 therefore1 include it in my recipes for luncheon dishes4 ,omelets1 too1 are excellent at luncheon4 ,in these remarks ,i am thinking especially of large families1 whose luncheon table might be provided with a dish of galantine1 one of collared fish1 and a meat pie1 besides the steak1 cutlets1 or warmed-over meat1 without anything going to waste4 ,in winter most cold jellied articles will keep a fortnight1 and in summer three or four days4 ,,windsor ,,pie4--,take slices of veal cutlet1 half an inch thick1 and very thin slices of lean boiled ham2 put at the bottom of one of these veal-pie dishes or bakers1 about two to three inches deep1 a layer of the veal1 seasoned1 then one of ham1 then one of force-meat1 made as follows3 ,take a little veal1 or if you have sausage-meat ready-made1 it will do1 as much fine dry bread-crumbs1 a dessert-spoonful of finely chopped parsley1 in which is a salt-spoonful of powdered thyme1 savory1 and marjoram1 if you have them1 with salt and pepper1 and mix with enough butter to make it a crumbling paste2 lay a thin layer of this on the ham1 then another of veal1 then ham and force-meat again1 until the dish is quite full4 ,lay something flat upon it1 and then a weight for an hour4 ,you must have prepared1 from bones and scraps of veal1 about a pint of stiff veal jelly2 pour this over the meat1 and then take strips of rich puff paste 7the brioche paste would be excellent in hot weather71 wet the edge of the dish1 and lay the strips round1 pressing them lightly to the dish2 roll the cover a little larger than the top of the dish1 and lay it on1 first wetting the surface1 not the edge1 of the strips round the lips of the dish2 press the two together1 then make a hole in the center and ornament as you please2 but ,i never ornament the edge of a pie1 as it is apt to prevent the paste from rising4 ,an appropriate and simple ornament for meat pies is to roll a piece of paste very thin1 cut it in four diamond-shaped pieces1 put one point of each to the hole in the center so that you have one on each end1 and one each side1 then roll another little piece of paste as thin as possible1 flour it and double it1 then double it again1 bring all the corners together in your hand1 like a little bundle1 then with a sharp knife give a quick cut over the top of the ball of paste1 cutting quite deeply1 then another across2 if your cut has been clean and quick1 you will now be able to turn half back the leaves of paste as if it were a half-blown rose4 ,the ends which you have gathered together in your hand are to be inserted in the hole in the center of the pie4 ,then brush over with yolk of egg beaten very well in a little milk or water1 and bake an hour and a half4 ,this way of covering and ornamenting a pie is appropriate for all meat pies2 pigeon pie should1 however1 have the little red feet skinned by dipping in boiling water1 then rubbed in a cloth1 when skin and nails peel off2 if allowed to lie in the water1 the flesh comes too2 then one pair is put at each end of the pie1 a hole being cut to insert them1 or four are put in the center instead of the rose4 ,the ,windsor pie is intended to be eaten cold1 as are all veal and ham pies1 the beauty of the jelly being lost in a hot pie4 ,do not fail to try it on that account1 for cold pies are excellent things4 ,,another ,,veal ,,and ,,ham ,,pie1 more usual1 and probably the weal and hammer that mellered the organ of ,silas ,wegg1 was manufactured by ,mrs4 ,boffin from this recipe2 it is as follows3 ,take the thick part of breast of veal1 removing all the bones1 which put on for gravy1 stewing them long and slowly2 put a layer of veal1 pepper and salt1 then a thin sprinkling of ham2 if boiled1 cut in slices2 if raw1 cut a slice in dice1 which scald before using1 then more veal and again ham4 ,if force-meat balls are liked1 make some force-meat as for ,windsor pie1 using if you prefer it chopped hard-boiled eggs in place of chopped meat1 and binding into a paste with a raw egg2 then make into balls1 which drop into the crevices of the pie2 boil two or three eggs quite hard1 cut each in four and lay them round the sides and over the top1 pour in about a gill of gravy1 and cover the same as the ,windsor pie4 ,in either of these pies the force-meat may be left out1 a sweetbread cut up1 or mushrooms put in4 ,a chicken pie to eat cold is very fine made in this way4 ,,raised ,,pork ,,pies are so familiar to every one who has visited ,england1 and1 in spite of the greasy idea1 are so very good1 that ,i introduce a well-tried recipe1 feeling sure any one who eats pork at all will find it worth while to give them a trial2 they will follow it with many another4 ,the paste for them is made as follows3 ,rub into two pounds of flour a liberal half pound of butter1 then melt in half a pint of hot1 but not boiling milk1 another half pound--or it may be lard2 pour this into the flour1 and knead it into a smooth1 firm paste4 ,properly raised pies should be molded by hand1 and ,i will endeavor to describe the method in case any persevering lady would like to try and have the orthodox thing4 ,but pie molds of tin1 opening at the side1 are to be bought1 and save much trouble2 the mold1 if used1 should be well buttered1 and the pie taken out when done1 and returned to the oven for the sides to brown4 ,to raise a pie1 proceed thus3 ,while the paste is warm1 form a ball of paste into a cone2 then with the fist work inside it1 till it forms an oval cup2 continue to knead till you have the walls of an even thickness1 then pinch a fold all around the bottom4 ,if properly done1 you have an oval1 flat-bottomed crust1 with sides about two inches high2 fill this with pork1 fat and lean together1 well peppered and salted2 then work an oval cover1 as near the size of the bottom cover as you can1 and wet the edges of the wall1 lay the cover on1 and pinch to match the bottom2 ornament as directed for ,windsor pie1 wash with egg1 and bake a pale brown in a moderate oven2 they must be well cooked1 or the meat will not be good4 ,one containing a pound of meat may be cooked an hour and a quarter4 ,all these pies are served in slices1 cut through to the bottom4 ,galantines are very handsome dishes1 not very difficult to make1 and generally popular4 ,i give a recipe for a very simple and delicious one3 ,take a fine breast of veal1 remove all gristle1 tendons1 bones1 and trim to fifteen inches in length and eight wide2 use the trimmings and bones to help make the jelly1 then put on the meat a layer of force-meat made thus3 ,take one pound of sausage meat1 or lean veal1 to which add half a pound of bread-crumbs1 parsley and thyme to taste2 grate a little nutmeg1 pepper1 salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 have also some long strips an inch thick of fat bacon or pork1 and lean of veal1 and lean ham1 well seasoned with pepper1 salt1 and finely chopped shallots4 ,lay on the meat a layer of force-meat an inch thick1 leaving an inch and a half on each side uncovered2 then lay on your strips of ham1 veal1 and bacon fat1 alternately2 then another of force-meat1 but only half an inch thick1 as too much force-meat will spoil the appearance of the dish2 if you have any cold tongue1 lay some strips in1 also a few blanched pistachio nuts 7to be obtained of a confectioner7 will give the appearance of true ,french galantine4 ,roll up the veal1 and sew it with a packing or coarse needle and fine twine1 tie it firmly up in a piece of linen4 ,observe that you do not put your pistachio nuts amid the force-meat1 where1 being green1 their appearance would be lost2 put them in crevices of the meats4 ,cook this in sufficient water to cover1 in which you must have the trimmings of the breast and a knuckle of veal1 or hock of pork1 two onions1 a carrot1 half a head of celery1 two cloves1 a blade of mace1 and a good bunch of parsley1 thyme and bay leaf1 two ounces of salt4 ,set the pot on the fire till it is at boiling point1 then draw it to the back and let it simmer three hours1 skimming carefully2 then take it from the fire1 leaving it in the stock till nearly cold2 then take it out1 remove the string from the napkin1 and roll the galantine up tighter--if too tight at first it will be hard--tying the napkin at each end only2 then place it on a dish1 set another dish on it1 on which place a fourteen-pound weight2 this will cause it to cut firm4 ,when quite cold1 remove strings and cloth1 and it is ready to be ornamented with jelly4 ,when the stock in which the galantine was cooked is cold take off the fat and clarify it1 first trying1 however1 if it is in right condition1 by putting a little on ice4 ,if it is not stiff enough to cut firm1 you must reduce it by boiling2 if too stiff1 that is approaching glaze1 add a little water1 then clarify by adding whites of eggs1 as directed to clarify soup 7see soups74 ,a glass of sherry and two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar are a great improvement4 ,some people like this jelly cut in dice1 to ornament the galantine1 part of it may then also serve to ornament other dishes at the table4 ,but ,i prefer to have the galantine enveloped in jelly1 which may be done by putting it in an oblong soup tureen or other vessel that will contain it1 leaving an inch space all round1 then pouring the jelly over it4 ,jellied fish is a favorite dish with many1 and is very simple to prepare2 it is also very ornamental4 ,take flounders or almost any flat fish that is cheapest at the time you require them4 ,clean and scrape them1 cut them in small pieces1 but do not cut off the fins2 put them in a stew-pan with a few small button onions or one large one1 a half teaspoonful of sugar1 a glass of sherry1 a dessert-spoonful of lemon juice1 and a small bunch of parsley4 ,to one large flounder put a quart of water1 and if you are going to jelly oysters put in their liquor and a little salt4 ,stew long and slowly1 skimming well2 then strain1 and if not perfectly clear clarify as elsewhere directed4 7,see if your stock jellies1 by trying it on ice before you clarify47 ,now take a mold1 put in it pieces of cold salmon1 eels that have been cooked1 or oysters1 the latter only just cooked enough in the stock to plump them2 pour a little of the jelly in the mold1 then three or four half slices of lemon1 then oysters or the cold fish1 until the mold is near full1 disposing the lemon so that it will be near the sides and decorate the jelly2 then pour the rest of the jelly over all and stand in boiling water for a few minutes1 then put it in a cold place1 on ice is best1 for some hours4 ,when about to serve1 dip the mold in hot water1 turn out on a dish1 garnish with lettuce leaves or parsley and hard-boiled eggs4 ,the latter may be introduced into the jelly cut in quarters if it is desired2 very ornamental force-meat balls made bright green with spinach juice are also an improvement in appearance4 ,a ,,new ,,mayonnaise 7,soyer's74--,put a quarter of a pint of stiff veal jelly 7that has been nicely flavored with vegetables7 on ice in a bowl1 whisking it till it is a white froth2 then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar1 by degrees1 first oil1 then vinegar1 continually whisking till it forms a white1 smooth1 sauce-like cream2 season with half a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of white pepper1 and a very little sugar1 whisk it a little more and it is ready4 ,it should be dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with4 ,the advantage of this sauce is that 7although more delicate than any other7 you may dress it to any height you like1 and it will remain so any length of time2 if the temperature is cool1 it will remain hours without appearing greasy or melting4 ,it is absolutely necessary1 however1 that it should be prepared on ice4 ,all these dishes1 however1 are only adapted for large families1 but there are several ways of improving on the ordinary lunch table of very small ones4 ,and nothing is more pleasant for the mistress of one of these very small families than to have a friend drop in to lunch1 and have a recherch lunch to offer with little trouble4 ,warming over will aid her in this1 and to that chapter ,i refer her2 but there are one or two ways of having cold relishes always ready1 which help out an impromptu meal wonderfully4 ,potted meats are a great resource to ,english housekeepers2 this side the ,atlantic they are chiefly known through the medium of ,cross ,blackwell1 though latterly one or two ,american firms have introduced some very admirable articles of the sort4 ,home-made potted meats are1 however1 better and less expensive than those bought2 they should be packed away in jars1 ,liebig's extract of meat jars not being too small for the purpose1 as1 while covered with the fat they keep well2 once opened1 they require eating within a week or ten days1 except in very cold weather4 ,potted bloater is one of the least expensive and appetizing of all potted meats4 ,to make it1 take two or three or more bloaters1 cut off the heads and cleanse them1 put them in the oven long enough to cook them through2 take them out1 take off the skin1 and remove the meat from the bones carefully2 put the meat of the fish in a jar with half its weight of butter1 leave it to slowly cook in a cool oven for an hour1 then take it out1 put the fish into a mortar or strong dish1 pour the butter on it carefully1 but don't let the gravy pass too1 unless the fish is to be eaten very quickly1 as it would prevent it keeping4 ,beat both butter and fish till they form a paste1 add a little cayenne1 and press it into small pots1 pouring on each melted butter1 or mutton suet4 ,either should be the third of an inch thick on the bloater4 ,this makes excellent sandwiches4 ,,potted ,,ham4--,take any remains of ham you have1 even fried1 if of a nice quality1 is good for the purpose2 take away all stringy parts1 sinew1 or gristle1 put it in a slow oven with its weight of butter1 let it stay macerating in the butter till very tender1 then beat it in a mortar1 add cayenne1 and pack in pots in the same way as the bloater4 ,thus you may pot odds and ends of any meat or fish you have1 and as a little potted meat goes a long way1 when you have a little lobster1 a bit of chicken breast1 or even cold veal1 ,i advise you to use it in this way2 you will then have a little stock of dainties in the house to fall back on at any time for unexpected calls--a very important thing in the country4 ,potted chicken or veal requires either a little tongue or lean ham to give flavor2 but failing these1 a little ravigotte butter1 beaten in after the meat is well pounded1 is by no means a bad substitute4 ,many people like the flavor of anchovies1 but do not like the idea of eating raw fish2 for these anchovy butter is very acceptable4 ,take the anchovies out of the liquor in which they are packed1 but do not wash them1 put them in twice their weight of butter in a jar1 which stand in boiling water2 set all back of the stove for an hour1 then pound1 add cayenne1 and pack in glasses4 ,unexpected company to luncheon with a lady who has to eat that meal alone generally1 and 7as is the unwise way of such ladies7 makes it a very slender meal1 is one of the ordeals of a young housekeeper2 company to lunch and nothing in the house4 ,but there is generally a dainty luncheon in every house if you know how to prepare it2 there certainly always will be if you keep your store-room supplied with the things ,i have named4 ,let the table be prettily laid at all times1 then if you have potted meat and preserves1 have them put on the table4 ,are there cold potatoes8 ,if so cut them up into potato salad1 if they are whole2 if broken1 warm them in a wineglass of milk1 a teaspoonful of flour1 and a piece as large as an egg of matre d'htel butter4 ,have you such scraps of cold meat as could not come to table8 ,toss them up with a half cup of water1 a slice of glaze 7oh1 blessed ever-ready glaze67 a teaspoonful of ravigotte1 or matre d'htel1 and a teaspoonful of roux or blanc1 according as your meat is light or dark1 season1 and serve4 ,or you have no meat1 then you have eggs1 and what better than an omelet and such an omelet as the following8 ,take the crumb of a slice of bread1 soak it in hot milk 7cold will do1 but hot is better71 beat up whites of four eggs to a high froth2 mix the bread with all the milk it will absorb1 no more1 into a paste1 add the yolks of eggs with a little salt1 set the pan on the fire with an ounce of butter4 ,let it get very hot1 then mix the whites of eggs with the yolks and bread lightly1 pour in the pan1 and move about for a minute2 if the oven is hot1 when the omelet is brown underneath1 set the pan in the oven for five minutes1 or until the top is set2 then double half over1 and serve4 ,if your guests have a liking for sweets1 and your potted meats supply the savory part of your luncheon1 then have a brown gravy ready to serve with it4 ,put into a half cup of boiling water a slice of glaze1 a spoonful of roux1 and enough ,harvey sauce1 or mushroom powder1 to flavor4 ,if your omelet is to be sweet1 before you fold it put in a layer of preserves4 ,the advantage of the omelet ,i have here given is that it keeps plump and tender till cold1 so that five minutes of waiting does not turn it into leather1 the great objection with omelets generally4 ,potatoes for luncheon1 as ,i have said1 should always be prepared in some fancy way1 and snow is a very pretty one4 ,have some fine mealy potatoes boiled1 carefully poured off1 and set back of the stove with a cloth over them till they are quite dry and fall apart2 then have a colander1 or coarse wire sieve made hot and a hot dish in which to serve them1 pass the floury potatoes through the sieve1 taking care not to crush the snow as it falls4 ,you require a large dish heaping full1 and be careful it is kept hot4 ,this mode of preparing potatoes1 although very pretty and novel1 must never be attempted with any but the whitest and mealiest kind4 ,the remains of cold potatoes may be prepared thus3 ,put three ounces of butter in a frying-pan in which fry three onions sliced till tender1 but not very brown1 then put on the potatoes cut in slices1 and shake them till they are of a nice brown color1 put a spoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and juice of a lemon1 shake well that all may mix together1 dish1 and serve very hot4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,a ,,chapter ,,on ,,general ,,management ,,in ,,very ,,small ,,families4 ,a ,,very small family1 a young mnage1 for instance1 is very much more difficult to cater for without waste than a larger one2 two people are so apt to get tired of anything1 be it ever so good eating1 when it has been on the table once or twice2 therefore it would be useless to make galantine or the large pies ,i have indicated1 except for occasions when guests are expected2 but1 as ,i hope to aid young housekeepers to have nice dishes when alone1 ,i will devote this chapter to their needs4 ,the chapter on ,warming ,over will be very useful also to this large class4 ,in the first place it is well to have regard1 when part of a dish leaves the table1 as to whether it1 or any particular part of it1 will make a nice little cold dish1 or a rechauff2 in that case have it saved1 unless it is required for the servants' dinner 7it is well to manage so that it is not needed for that purpose72 for instance1 if there is the wing and a slice or two of the breast of a chicken left1 it will make a dainty little breakfast dish1 or cold1 in jelly1 be nice for lunch4 ,there is always jelly if you have roast chicken1 if you manage properly1 and this is how you do it3 ,carefully save the feet1 throat1 gizzard1 and liver of your chickens2 scald the feet by pouring boiling water over them2 leave them just a minute1 and pull off the outer skin and nails2 they come away very readily1 leaving the feet delicately white2 put these with the other giblets1 properly cleansed1 into a small saucepan with an onion1 a slice of carrot1 a sprig of parsley1 and a pint of water 7if you have the giblets of one chicken71 if of two1 put a quart2 let this slowly simmer for two hours and a half2 it will be reduced to about half1 and form a stiff jelly when cold2 a glass of sherry1 and squeeze of lemon1 or teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar1 makes this into a delicious aspic1 and should be added if to be eaten cold4 ,the jelly must of course be strained4 ,in roasting chickens1 if you follow the rule for meat1 that is1 put no water in the pan1 but a piece of butter1 and dredge a very little flour over the chicken1 you will have a nice brown glaze at the bottom of the pan1 provided it has been cooked in a quick oven2 if in a cool oven there will be nothing brown at all2 but we will suppose the bird is browned to a turn2 pour your gravy from the giblets into the pan1 take off every bit of the glaze or osma-zone that adheres1 and let it dissolve1 rubbing it with the back of the spoon2 then1 if you are likely to have any chicken left cold1 pour off a little gravy in a cup through a fine strainer1 leaving in your pan sufficient for the dinner2 in this mash up the liver till it is a smooth paste which thickens the gravy1 and serve4 ,some object to liver1 therefore the use of it is a matter of taste4 ,if you dress the chickens ,english fashion1 you will need the liver and gizzard to tuck under the wings2 in this case1 stew only the feet and throat1 using a little meat of any kind1 if you have it1 to take their place2 but on no account fail to use the feet1 as they are as rich in jelly as calves' feet in proportion to their size4 ,the jelly laid aside will be enough to ornament and give relish to a little dish of cold chicken1 and changes it from a dry and commonplace thing to a recherch one4 ,if two chickens are cooked it is more economical than one2 there is1 then1 double the amount of gravy1 generally sufficient1 if you lay some very nice pieces of cold chicken in a bowl1 to pour over it and leave it enveloped in jelly2 you still then1 if from dinner for two people1 have perhaps joints enough to make a dish of curry or fricassee1 or any of the many ways in which cold chicken may be used1 for which see chapter on ,warming ,over4 ,for small households large joints are to be avoided1 but even a small roast is a large joint when there are but two or three to eat it4 ,for this reason it is a good plan to buy such joints as divide well4 ,a sirloin of beef is better made into two fine dishes than into one roast1 and then warmed over twice4 ,every one knows that ,filet de boeuf ,chateaubriand is one of the classical dishes of the ,french table1 that to a ,frenchman luxury can go no further2 but every one does not know how entirely within his power it is to have that dish as often as he has roast beef2 how convenient it would be to so have it4 ,here it is3 ,when your sirloin roast comes from the butcher1 take out the tenderloin or fillets1 which you must always choose thick2 cut it across into steaks an inch thick1 trim them1 cover them with a coat of butter 7or oil1 which is much better71 and broil them ten minutes1 turning them often2 garnish with fried potatoes1 and serve with sauce ,chateaubriand1 as follows3 ,put a gill of white wine 7or claret will do if you have no white7 into a saucepan1 with a piece of glaze1 weighing an ounce and a half2 add three quarters of a pint of espagnole1 and simmer fifteen minutes2 when ready to serve1 thicken with two ounces of matre d'htel butter in which a dessert-spoonful of flour has been worked4 ,that is how ,jules ,gouff's recipe runs2 but1 as no small family will keep espagnole ready made1 allow a little more glaze 7of course the recipe as given may be divided to half or quarter1 provided the correct proportions are retained71 and use a tablespoonful of roux and the matre d'htel butter1 both of which you have probably in your store-room2 if not1 brown a little flour1 chop some parsley1 and add to two ounces of butter2 work them together1 then let them dissolve in the sauce1 for which purpose let it go off the boil2 let the sauce simmer a minute1 skim1 and serve4 ,the sirloin of beef1 denuded of its fillet1 is still a good roast2 and as you can't have your cake and eat it too1 and hot fresh roast beef is better than the same warmed over1 warm ye never so wisely1 ,i think this plan may commend itself to those who like nice little dinners4 ,a nice little dinner of a soup1 an entre1 or made dish1 salad1 and dessert1 really costs no more than frequent roast meat1 or even steak and pudding1 by following some such plan as this3 ,sunday4--,pot-au-feu and roast lamb1 leg of mutton or other good joint1 etc4 ,monday4--,rice or vermicelli soup made with remains of the bouillon from pot-au-feu4 ,if the ,sunday joint was a fore or hindquarter of lamb it should have been divided1 say the leg from the loin1 thus providing choice roasts for two days1 and yet having enough cold lamb--that favorite dish with so many--for luncheon with a salad2 and1 surprising to say1 after hot roast lamb for dinner ,sunday1 cold lunch for ,monday1 another roast ,monday1 and cold or warmed up for lunch ,tuesday1 there will still be 7supposing as ,i do1 in preparing this chapter1 that the family consists only of gentleman1 lady1 and servant7 remains enough from the two cold joints to make cromesquis of lamb 7see recipe71 a little dish of mince1 or a delicate saut of lamb for breakfast4 ,it is surprising what may be done with odds and ends in a small family2 a tiny plate of pieces1 far too small to make an appearance on the table1 and which1 if special directions are not given1 will seem to ,bridget not worth saving1 will1 with each piece dipped into the batter la ,carme1 and fried in hot fat1 make a tempting dish for breakfast1 or an entre for dinner or luncheon4 ,two tablespoonfuls only of chopped meat of any kind will make croquettes for two or three people2 hence1 'save the pieces4' ,but to return to our bills of fare3 ,i have given the two roasts of lamb for consecutive days1 because the weather in lamb season is usually too warm to keep it2 when this can be done1 however1 it is pleasanter to leave the second joint of lamb till ,tuesday4 ,should a forequarter 7abroad held in greater esteem than the hindquarter7 have been chosen1 get the butcher to take out the shoulder in one round thick joint1 ,english fashion2 this crisply roasted is far more delicious than the leg2 you then have the chops to be breaded1 and an excellent dish of the neck and breast1 either broiled1 curried1 stewed with peas1 or roast4 ,yet how often we see a whole quarter of lamb put in the oven for two or three people who get tired of the sight of it cold1 yet feel in economy bound to eat it4 ,should sirloin of beef have been the ,sunday dinner1 you will know what to do with it1 from directions already given2 and as a sirloin of beef1 even with the fillet out1 will be more than required for one dinner1 it may serve for a third day1 dressed in one of the various ways ,i shall give in chapter on ,warming ,over4 ,you have still at your disposal the bouilli or beef from which you have made your pot-au-feu1 which1 if it has been carefully boiled1 not galloped1 nor allowed to fall to rags1 is very good eating4 ,cut thin with lettuce1 or in winter celery1 in about equal quantities1 and a good salad dressing1 it is excellent2 or1 made into hash1 fritadella1 or even rissoles1 is savory and delicious2 only bear in mind with this1 as all cooked meats1 the gravy drawn out must be replaced by stock or glaze2 it is very easy to warm over bouilli satisfactorily1 as a cup of the soup made from it can always be kept for gravy4 ,a leg of mutton makes two excellent joints1 and is seldom liked cold--as beef and lamb often are4 ,select a large fine leg1 have it cut across1 that each part may weigh about equally2 roast the thick or fillet end and serve with or without onion sauce 7 la soubise72 boil the knuckle in a small quantity of water1 just enough to cover it1 with a carrot1 turnip1 onion1 and bunch of parsley1 and salt in the water1 serve with caper sauce and mashed turnips4 ,the broth from this is excellent soup served thus3 ,skim it carefully1 take out the vegetables1 and chop a small quantity of parsley very fine1 then beat up in a bowl two eggs1 pour into them a little of the broth--not boiling--beating all the time1 then draw your soup back till it is off the boil1 and pour in the eggs1 stirring continually till it is on the boiling point again 7but it must not boil1 or the eggs will curdle and spoil the soup71 and then turn it into a hot tureen and serve4 ,use remains of the cold roast and boiled mutton together1 to make made dishes2 between the days of having the roast and boiled mutton you may have had a fowl1 and the remains from that will make you a second dish to go with your joint4 ,the remains from the first cooked mutton1 in form of curry1 mince1 salmi1 or saut1 will be a second dish with your fowl4 ,veal is one of the most convenient things to have for a small family1 as it warms over in a variety of ways1 and in some is actually better than when put on the table as a joint4 ,by having a little fish one day1 instead of soup1 and a little game another1 and remembering when you have an especially dainty thing1 to have one with it a little more substantial and less costly1 you may have variety at little expense4 ,for instance1 if you find it convenient to have for dinner fritadella 7see ,warming ,over7 or miroton of beef1 or cold mutton curried1 you might have broiled birds1 or roast pigeon1 or game4 ,in this consists good management1 to live so that the expenses of one day balance those of the other--unless you are so happily situated that expense is a small matter1 in which case these remarks will not apply to you at all4 ,then1 never mind warming over1 or making one joint into two2 let your poor neighbors and ,bridget's friends enjoy your superfluity4 ,to the woman with a moderate income it usually is a matter of importance1 or ought to be1 that her weekly expenditure should not exceed a certain amount1 and for this she must arrange that any extra expense is balanced by a subsequent economy4 ,salads add much to the health and elegance of a dinner2 it is in early spring an expensive item if lettuce is used2 but no salad can be more delicious or more healthful than dressed celery2 and by buying when cheap1 arranging with a man to lay in your cellar1 covered with soil1 enough for the winter's use1 it need cost but moderately4 ,celeriac1 or turnip-rooted celery is another salad that is very popular with our ,german friends2 it is a bulbous celery1 the root being the part eaten2 these are cooked like potatoes1 cut in slices1 and dressed with oil and vinegar1 or mayonnaise1 it is exceedingly good4 ,potato salad is always procurable1 and in summer at lunch1 instead of the hot vegetable1 or in winter when green salad is dear1 is very valuable4 ,it may be varied by the addition1 one day1 of a few chopped pickles1 another1 a little onion1 or celery1 or parsley1 or tarragon1 a little ravigotte butter beaten to cream with the vinegar1 or with meat1 as follows3 ,boil the potatoes in their skins1 peel them1 cut them into pieces twice the thickness of a fifty-cent piece1 and put them into a salad bowl with cold meat 7bouilli from soup is excellent72 put to them a teaspoonful of salt1 half that quantity of pepper1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 three or even four of oil1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,you can vary this by putting at different times some chopped celery or pickles1 olives1 or anchovies4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,on ,,frying ,,and ,,broiling4 ,,frying is one of the operations in cookery in which there are more failures than any other1 or1 at least1 there appear to be more1 because the failure is always so very apparent4 ,nothing can make a dish of breaded cutlets on which are bald white spots look inviting1 or livid-looking fish1 just flaked here and there with the bread that has been persuaded to stay on4 ,and1 provided you have enough fat in the pan--there should always be enough to immerse the article2 therefore use a deep iron or enameled pan--there can be but two reasons why you fail4 ,your fat has not been hot enough1 or your crumbs have not been fine and even4 ,many suppose when the fat bubbles and boils in the pan that it is quite hot2 it is far from being so4 ,others again are so much nearer the truth that they know it must become silent1 that is1 boil and cease to boil1 before it is ready1 but even that is not enough2 it must be silent some time1 smoke1 and appear to be on the point of burning1 then drop a bit of bread in2 if it crisps and takes color directly1 quickly put in your articles4 ,these articles1 whether cutlets or fish1 must have been carefully prepared1 or herein may lie the second cause of failure4 ,any cookery book will give you directions how to crumb1 follow them2 but what some do not tell you is1 that your bread-crumbs should be finely sifted2 every coarse crumb is liable to drop off and bring with it a good deal of the surrounding surface4 ,i also follow the ,french plan in using the egg1 and mix with it oil and water in the proportion of three eggs1 one tablespoonful of oil1 one of water1 and a little salt1 beat together and use4 ,it is a good plan to keep a supply of panure or dried bread-crumbs always ready4 ,cut any slices of baker's bread1 dry them in a cool oven so that they remain quite colorless1 or they will not do for the purpose4 ,when as dry as crackers1 crush under a rolling-pin1 and sift2 keep in a jar for use4 ,in no branch of cooking is excellence more appreciated than in that of frying4 ,a dish of filets de sole or cutlets1 crisp and golden brown1 is an ornament to any table1 and is seldom disdained by any one4 ,apropos of filets de sole2 it is very high-sounding yet very attainable1 as ,i shall show4 ,i was staying with a friend early in spring1 a lady always anxious for table novelties4 ,oh1 do tell me what fish to order1 ,i should like something fried1 now that you are here to tell cook how to do it2 she hasn't the wildest idea1 although she would be astounded to hear me say so4 ,have you ever had flounders8 ,i asked4 ,flounders6 ,my friend's pretty nose went up the eighth of an inch1 and her confidence in my powers as counselor went down to zero4 ,flounders6 but they are a very common fish you know4 ,i know they are very delicious1 ,i answered4 ,order them1 and trust me2 but ,i must coax the autocrat of your kitchen to allow me to cook and prepare them myself4 ,an hour before dinner ,i went into the kitchen1 put at least a pound of lard into a deep frying-pan1 and set it where it would get gradually hot1 then ,i turned my attention to the fish2 they were thick1 firm flounders1 and were ready cleaned1 scraped1 and the heads off4 ,i then proceeded to bone one in the following way3 ,take a sharp knife and split the flounder right down the middle of the back1 then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones going toward the edge4 ,you have now detached one quarter of the flesh from the bone1 do the other half in the same way1 and when the back is thus entirely loose from the bone1 turn the fish over and do the same with the other part4 ,you will now find you can remove the bone whole from the fish1 detaching1 as you do so1 any flesh still retaining the bone1 then you have two halves of the fish2 cut away the fins1 and you have four quarters of solid fish4 ,now see if the fat is very hot1 set it forward while you wipe your fish dry1 and dip each piece in milk1 then in flour4 ,try if the fat is hot by dropping a crumb into it2 if it browns at once1 put in the fish4 ,when they are beautifully brown1 which will be in about ten minutes1 take them up in the colander1 and then lay them on a towel to absorb any fat1 lay them on a hot dish1 and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley or celery tops4 ,now when this dish made its appearance1 my friend's husband1 a bon vivant1 greeted it with1 ,aha6 ,filets de sole la ,delmonico1 and as nothing to the contrary was said until dinner was over1 he ate them under the impression that they were veritable filets de sole4 ,of course ,i can't pretend to say whether ,m4 ,delmonico imports his soles1 or uses the homely flounder2 but ,i do know that one of his frequenters knew no difference4 ,oysters should be laid on a cloth to drain thoroughly1 then rolled in fine sifted cracker dust1 and dropped into very hot fat2 do not put more oysters in the pan than will fry without one overlapping the other4 ,very few minutes will brown them beautifully1 if your fat was hot enough1 and as a minute too long toughens and shrinks them1 be very careful that it browns a cube of bread almost directly1 before you begin the oysters4 ,egg and bread-crumb may be used instead of cracker dust1 but it is not the proper thing1 and is a great deal more trouble4 ,should you be desirous of using it1 however1 the oysters must be carefully wiped dry before dipping them2 while for cracker dust they are not wiped1 but only drained well4 ,fish of any kind1 fried in batter la ,carme 7see recipe71 is very easy to do1 and very nice4 ,carefully save veal1 lamb1 beef1 and pork drippings4 ,keep a crock to put it in1 and1 clarified as ,i shall direct1 it is much better than lard for many purposes1 and for frying especially2 it does not leave the dark look that is sometimes seen on articles fried in lard4 ,the perfection of friture1 or frying-fat1 according to ,gouff1 is equal parts of lard and beef fat melted together4 ,yet there are families where dripping is never used--is looked upon as unfit to use--while the truth is that many persons quite unable to eat articles fried in lard would find no inconvenience from those fried in beef fat4 ,it is as wholesome as butter1 and far better for the purpose4 ,butter1 indeed1 is only good for frying such things as omelets or scrambled eggs2 things that are cooked in a very short time1 and require no great degree of heat4 ,the same may be said of oil1 than which1 for fish1 nothing can be better4 ,yet it can only be used once1 and is unsuitable for things requiring long-sustained heat1 as it soon gets bitter and rank4 ,do not be afraid to put a pound or two of fat in your pan for frying2 it is quite as economical as to put less for it can be used over and over again1 a pail or crock being kept for the purpose of receiving it4 ,always in returning it to the crock pour it through a fine strainer1 so that no sediment or brown particles may pass which would spoil the next frying4 ,to clarify dripping1 when poured from the meat-pan1 it should go into a bowl1 instead of the crock in which you wish to keep it4 ,then pour into the bowl also some boiling water1 and add a little salt1 stir it1 and set it away4 ,next day1 or when cold1 run a knife round the bowl1 and 7unless it is pork7 it will turn out in a solid cake1 leaving the water and impurities at the bottom4 ,now scrape the bottom of your dripping1 and put it in more boiling water till it melts1 then stir again1 another pinch of salt add1 and let it cool again4 ,when you take off the cake of fat1 scrape it as before1 and it is ready to be melted into the general crock1 and will now keep for months in cool weather4 ,if you are having frequent joints it is as well to do all your dripping together1 once a week2 but do not leave it long at any season with water under it1 as that would taint it4 ,fat skimmed from boiled meat1 pot-au-feu1 before the vegetables1 etc41 go in1 is quite as good as that from roast1 treated in the same way4 ,frying in batter is very easy and excellent for some things1 such as warming over meat1 being far better than eggs and crumbs4 ,carme gives the following recipe1 which is excellent3 ,three quarters of a pound of sifted flour1 mixed with two ounces of butter melted in warm water2 blow the butter off the water into the flour first1 then enough of the water to make a soft paste1 which beat smooth1 then more warm water till it is batter thick enough to mask the back of a spoon dipped into it1 and salt to taste2 add the last thing the whites of two eggs well beaten4 ,another batter1 called la ,provenale1 is also exceedingly good1 especially for articles a little dry in themselves1 such as chickens to be warmed over1 slices of cold veal1 etc4 ,take same quantity of flour1 two yolks of eggs1 four tablespoonfuls of oil1 mix with cold water1 and add whites of eggs and salt as before4 ,into this batter ,i sometimes put a little chopped parsley1 and the least bit of powdered thyme1 or grated lemon-peel1 or nutmeg2 this is1 however1 only a matter of taste4 ,,broiling is the simplest of all forms of cooking1 and is essentially ,english4 ,to broil well is very easy with a little attention4 ,a brisk clear fire1 not too high in the stove1 is necessary to do it with ease2 yet if1 as must sometimes happen1 to meet the necessities of other cooking1 your fire is very large1 carefully fix the gridiron on two bricks or in any convenient manner1 to prevent the meat scorching1 then have the gridiron very hot before putting your meat upon it2 turn it1 if chop or steak1 as soon as the gravy begins to start on the upper side2 if allowed to remain without turning long1 the gravy forms a pool on the top1 which1 when turned1 falls into the fire and is lost2 the action of the heat1 if turned quickly1 seals the pores and the gravy remains in the meat4 ,if the fire is not very clear1 put a cover over the meat on the gridiron1 it will prevent its blackening or burning--if the article is thick ,i always do so--and it is an especially good plan with birds or chickens1 which are apt to be raw at the joints unless this is done2 indeed1 with the latter1 ,i think it a good way to put them in a hot oven ten minutes before they go on to broil1 then have a spoonful of matre d'htel butter to lay on the breast of each4 ,young spring chickens are sometimes very dry1 in which case dip them in melted butter1 or1 better still1 oil them all over a little while before cooking4 ,there is nothing more unsightly than a sprawling dish of broiled chickens2 therefore1 in preparing them place them in good form1 then1 with a gentle blow of the rolling-pin1 break the bones that they may remain so4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,roasting4 ,,in spite of ,brillat-,savarin's maxim that one may become a cook1 but must be born a rotisseur1 ,i am inclined to think one may also1 by remembering one or two things1 become a very good roaster 7to translate the untranslatable71 especially in our day1 when the oven has taken the place of the spit1 although a great deal of meat is spoiled in roasting2 a loin of lamb or piece of beef1 that comes to the table so pale that you can't tell whether it has been boiled or merely wilted in the oven1 is an aggravation so familiar1 that a rich brown1 well-roasted joint is generally a surprise4 ,perhaps the cook will tell you she has had the hottest kind of an oven2 but then she has probably also had a well of water underneath it1 the vapor from which1 arising all the time1 has effectually soddened the meat1 and checked the browning4 ,the surface of roast meat should be covered with a rich glaze1 scientifically called osma-zone4 ,that the meat may be thus glazed1 it should always go into a hot oven1 so that1 as the gravy exudes1 it may congeal on the outside1 thus sealing up the pores4 ,the general plan1 however1 is to put meat into a warm oven an hour or two earlier than it should go1 with a quantity of water and flour underneath it4 ,the result in hot weather ,i have known to be very disagreeable1 the tepid oven having1 in fact1 given a stale taste to the joint before it began to cook1 and it at all times results in flavorless1 tough meat4 ,there is no time saved1 either1 in putting the meat in while the oven is yet cool4 ,heat up the oven till it is quite brisk1 then put the meat in a pan1 in which1 if it is fat1 you require no water2 if very lean1 you may put half a teacup1 just enough to prevent the pan burning2 you may rub a little flour over the joint or not1 as you please1 but never more than the surface moisture absorbs2 have no clinging particles of flour upon the joint1 neither put salt nor pepper upon the meat before it goes into the oven2 salt draws out the gravy1 which it is your object to keep in1 and the flavor of pepper is entirely changed by the parching it undergoes when on the surface of the meat1 the odor of scorched pepper1 while cooking1 being very offensive to refined nostrils4 ,this does not occur when pepper is not on the surface2 for the inside of birds1 in stuffing1 and in meat pies it is indispensable1 and the flavor undergoes no change4 ,this remark on pepper applies also to broiling and frying4 ,always pepper after the article is cooked1 and both for appearance and delicacy of flavor white pepper should always be used in preference to black4 ,meat1 while in the oven1 should be carefully turned about so that it may brown equally1 and when it has been in half the time you intend to give it1 or when the upper surface is well browned1 turn it over4 ,when it comes out of the oven put it on a hot dish1 then carefully pour off the fat by holding the corner of the meat pan over your dripping-pan1 and very gently allowing the fat to run off2 do not shake it2 when you see the thick brown sediment beginning to run too1 check it2 if there is still much fat on the surface1 take it off with a spoon2 then pour into the pan a little boiling water and salt1 in quantity according to the quantity of sediment or glaze in the pan1 and with a spoon rub off every speck of the dried gravy on the bottom and sides of the pan4 ,add no flour1 the gravy must be thick enough with its own richness4 ,if you have added too much water1 so that it looks poor1 you may always boil it down by setting the pan on the stove for a few minutes2 but it is better to put very little water at first1 and add as the richness of the gravy allows4 ,now you have a rich brown gravy1 instead of the thick whitey-brown broth so often served with roast meat4 ,every drop of this gravy and that from the dish should be carefully saved if left over4 ,save all dripping1 except from mutton or meat with which onions are cooked1 for purposes which ,i shall indicate in another place4 ,veal and pork require to be very thoroughly cooked4 ,for them1 therefore1 the oven must not be too hot1 neither must it be lukewarm1 a good even heat is best2 if likely to get too brown before it is thoroughly cooked1 open the oven door4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,boiling4 ,,boiling is one of the things about which cooks are most careless2 theoretically they almost always know meat should be slowly boiled1 but their idea of slow is ruled by the fire2 they never attempt to rule that4 ,there is a good rule given by ,gouff as to what slow boiling actually is3 the surface of the pot should only show signs of ebullition at one side1 just an occasional bubble4 ,simmering is a still slower process1 and in this the pot should have only a sizzling round one part of the edge4 ,all fresh meat should boil slowly2 ham or corn beef should barely simmer4 ,yet they must not go off the boil at all1 which would spoil fresh meat entirely2 steeping in water gives a flat1 insipid taste4 ,all vegetables except potatoes1 asparagus1 peas1 and cauliflower should boil as fast as possible2 these four only moderately4 ,most vegetables are boiled far too long4 ,cabbage is as delicate as cauliflower in the summer and fall if boiled in plenty of water1 to which a salt spoonful of soda has been added1 as fast as possible for twenty minutes or half an hour1 then drained and dressed4 ,in winter it should be cut in six or eight pieces1 boiled fast1 in plenty of water1 for half an hour1 no longer4 ,always give it plenty of room1 let the water boil rapidly when you put it in the pot1 which set on the hottest part of the fire to come to that point again1 and you will have no more strong1 rank1 yellow stuff on your table1 no bad odor in your house4 ,peas require no more than twenty minutes' boiling if young2 asparagus the same2 the latter should always be boiled in a saucepan deep enough to let it stand up in the water when tied up in bunches1 for this saves the heads4 ,potatoes should be poured off the minute they are done1 and allowed to stand at the back of the stove with a clean cloth folded over them4 ,they are the only vegetable that should be put into cold water4 ,when new1 boiling water is proper4 ,when quite ripe they are more floury if put in cold water4 ,,soups4--,as ,i have before said1 ,i do not pretend to give many recipes1 only to tell you how to succeed with the recipes given in other books4 ,i shall1 therefore1 only give one recipe which ,i know is a novelty and one for the foundation of all soups4 ,in one sense ,i have done the latter already4 ,the stock for glaze is an excellent soup before it is reduced2 but ,i will also give ,jules ,gouff's method of making pot-au-feu1 it being a most beautifully clear soup4 ,it often happens1 however1 that you have sufficient stock from bones1 trimmings of meat1 and odds and ends of gravies1 which may always be turned to account2 but the stock from such a source1 although excellent1 will not always be clear2 therefore1 you must proceed with it in the following manner1 unless you wish to use it for thick soup3 ,make your stock boiling hot and skim well2 then have ready the whites of three eggs 7,i am supposing you have three quarts of stock--one egg to a quart71 to which add half a pint of cold water2 whisk well together2 then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually1 still whisking the eggs2 then stir the boiling stock rapidly1 pouring in the whites of eggs1 etc42 as you do it1 stir quickly till nearly boiling again1 then take it from the fire1 let it remain till the whites of eggs separate2 then strain through a clean1 fine cloth into a basin4 ,this rule once learned will clear every kind of soup or jelly4 ,there are many people who are good cooks1 yet fail in clear soup1 which is with them semi-opaque1 while it should be like sherry4 ,the cause of this opacity is generally quick boiling while the meat is in4 ,this gives it a milky appearance4 ,after the stock is once made and clear1 quick boiling will do no harm1 but of course wastes the soup1 unless resorted to for the purpose of making it stronger4 ,a word here about coloring soup3 ,most persons resort to burnt sugar1 and1 very carefully used1 it is not at all a bad makeshift4 ,but how often have we a rich-looking soup put before us1 the vermicelli appearing to repose under a lake of strong russet bouillon1 but which1 on tasting1 we find suggestive of nothing but burnt sugar and salt1 every bit of flavor destroyed by the acrid coloring4 ,sometimes stock made by the recipe for pot-au-feu 7to follow7 requires no color2 this depends on the beef2 but usually all soup is more appetizing in appearance for a little browning1 and for this purpose ,i always use burnt onions in preference to anything else4 ,if you have none in store when the soup is put on1 put a small onion in the oven 7or on the back of the stove2 should you be baking anything the odor would taint72 turn it often till it gets quite black1 but not charred4 ,then put it to the soup2 it adds a fine flavor as well as color1 and you need not fear overdoing it4 ,soup that is to be reduced must be very lightly salted2 for this reason salt is left out altogether for glaze1 as the reduction causes the water only to evaporate1 the salt remains4 ,,gouff',s ,,pot-,,au-,,feu4--,four pounds of lean beef1 six quarts of water1 six ounces of carrot1 six of turnip1 six of onion1 half an ounce of celery1 one clove1 salt4 ,put the meat on in cold water1 and just before it comes to the boil skim it1 and throw in a wineglass of cold water1 skim again1 and1 when it is on the boil1 again throw in another wineglass of cold water2 do this two or three times4 ,the object of adding the cold water is to keep it just off the boil until all the scum has risen1 as the boiling point is when it comes to the surface1 yet once having boiled1 the scum is broken up1 and the soup is never so clear4 ,the meat must simmer slowly1 not boil1 for three hours before the vegetables are added1 then for a couple of hours more4 ,it is necessary to be very exact in the proportions of vegetables2 but1 of course1 after having weighed them for soups once or twice1 you will get to know about the size of a carrot1 turnip1 etc41 that will weigh six ounces4 ,the exact weight is given until the eye is accustomed to it4 ,this soup strained1 and boiled down to one half1 becomes consomm4 ,,celery ,,cream is a most delicious and little-known white soup1 and all lovers of good things will thank me for introducing it4 ,have some nice veal stock1 or the water in which chickens have been boiled1 reduced till it is rich enough1 will do1 or some very rich mutton broth1 but either of the former are preferable2 then put on a half cup of rice in a pint of rich milk1 and grate into it the white part and root of two heads of celery4 ,let the rice milk cook very slowly at the back of the stove1 adding more milk before it gets at all stiff2 when tender enough to mash through a coarse sieve or fine colander add it to the stock1 which must have been strained and be quite free from sediment1 season with salt and a little white pepper or cayenne1 boil all together gently a few minutes4 ,it should look like rich cream1 and be strongly flavored with celery4 ,of course the quantity of rice1 milk1 and celery must depend on the quantity of stock you have4 ,i have given the proportion for one quart1 which1 with the milk1 etc41 added1 would make about three pints of soup4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,sauces4 ,,talleyrand said ,england was a country with twenty-four religions and only one sauce4 ,he might have said two sauces1 and he would have been literally right as regards both ,england and ,america4 ,everything is served with brown sauce or white sauce4 ,and how often the white sauce is like bookbinder's paste1 the brown1 a bitter1 tasteless brown mess6 ,strictly speaking1 perhaps1 the ,french have but two sauces either1 espagnole1 or brown sauce1 and white sauce1 which they call the mother sauces2 but what changes they ring on these mother sauces6 ,the espagnole once made1 with no two meats is it served alike in flavor1 and in this matter of flavor the artist appears4 ,in making brown sauce for any purpose1 bethink yourself of anything there may be in your store-room with which to vary its flavor1 taking care that it shall agree with the meat for which it is intended4 ,the ordinary cook flies at once to ,worcestershire or ,harvey sauce1 which are excellent at times1 but toujours perdrix is not always welcome4 ,a pinch of mushroom powder1 or a few chopped oysters1 are excellent with beef or veal2 so will be a spoonful of ,montpellier butter stirred in1 or curry1 not enough to yellow the sauce1 but enough to give a dash of piquancy4 ,a pickled walnut chopped1 or a gherkin or two1 go admirably with mutton or pork chops4 ,in short1 this is just where imagination and brains will tell in cooking1 and little essays of invention may be tried with profit4 ,but beware of trying too much2 make yourself perfect in one thing before venturing on another4 ,,espagnole1 or brown sauce1 is simply a rich stock well flavored with vegetables and herbs1 and thickened with a piece of roux or with brown flour4 ,,white ,,sauce is one of those things we rarely find perfectly made2 bad1 it is the ne plus ultra of badness2 good1 it is delicious4 ,those who have tried to have it good1 and failed1 ,i beg to try the following method of making it3 ,take an ounce and a half of butter and a scant tablespoonful of flour1 mix both with a spoon into a paste2 when smooth add half a pint of warm milk1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 and the sixth part of one of white pepper2 set it on the fire till it boils1 and is thick enough to mask the back of the spoon transparently2 then add a squeeze of lemon juice1 and another ounce and a half of fresh butter2 stir this till quite blended4 ,this sauce is the foundation for many others1 and1 for some purposes1 the beaten yolk of an egg is introduced when just off the boil4 ,capers may be added to it1 or chopped mushrooms1 or chopped celery1 or oysters1 according to the use for which it is intended4 ,the object of adding the second butter is because boiling takes away the flavor of butter2 by stirring half of it in1 without boiling1 you retain it4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,warming ,,over4 ,,hash is a peculiarly ,american institution4 ,in no other country is every remnant of cold meat turned into that one unvarying dish4 ,what do ,i say8 remnants of cold meat6 rather joints of cold meat1 a roast of beef of which the tenderloin had sufficed for the first day's dinner1 the leg of mutton from which a few slices only have been taken1 the fillet of veal1 available for so many delicate dishes1 all are ruthlessly turned into the all-pervading hash4 ,the curious thing is that people are not fond of it4 ,men exclaim against it1 and its name stinks in the nostrils of those unhappy ones whose home is the boarding-house4 ,yet hash in itself is not a bad dish2 when ,i say it is a peculiarly ,american institution1 ,i mean1 that when ,english people speak of hash1 they mean something quite different--meat warmed in slices4 ,our hash1 in its best form--that is1 made with nice gravy1 garnished with sippets of toast and pickles1 surrounded with mashed potatoes or rice--is dignified abroad by the name of mince1 and makes its appearance as an elegant little entre4 ,nor would it be anathematized in the way it is with us1 if it were only occasionally introduced4 ,it is the familiarity that has led to contempt4 ,but what shall ,i do8 asks the young wife distressfully2 ,john likes joints1 and he and ,i and ,bridget can't possibly eat a roast at a meal4 ,very true2 and it is to just such perplexed young housekeepers that ,i hope this chapter will be especially useful--that is to say1 small families with moderate means and a taste for good things4 ,in this1 as in many other ways1 large families are easier to cater for2 they can consume the better part of a roast at a meal1 and the remains it is no great harm to turn into hash1 although even they might1 with little trouble and expense1 have agreeable variety introduced into their bill of fare4 ,in ,england and ,america there is great prejudice against warmed-over food1 but on the continent one eats it half the time in some of the most delicious-made dishes without suspecting it4 ,herein lies the secret4 ,with us and our transatlantic cousins the warming over is so artlessly done1 that the hard fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it reposes4 ,one great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat satisfactory is the lack of gravy4 ,on the goodness of this 7as well as its presence7 depends the success of your rchauff4 ,the glaze1 for which ,i have given the recipe1 renders you at all times independent in this respect1 but at the same time it should not alone be depended on4 ,every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast should be saved1 and great care be taken of all scraps1 bones1 and gristle1 which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity of flying to the glaze for every purpose4 ,i will here give several recipes1 which ,i think may be new to many readers4 ,,salmi ,,of ,,cold ,,meat is exceedingly good4 ,melt butter in a saucepan1 if for quite a small dish two ounces will be sufficient2 when melted1 stir in a little flour to thicken2 let it brown1 but not burn1 or1 if you are preparing the dish in haste1 put in some brown flour2 then add a glass of white or red wine and a cup of broth1 or a cup of water and a slice of glaze1 a sprig or two of thyme1 parsley1 a small onion1 chopped1 and one bay leaf1 pepper1 and salt4 ,simmer all thoroughly 7all savory dishes to which wine is added should simmer long enough for the distinct winey flavor to disappear1 only the strength and richness remaining74 ,strain this when simmered half an hour and lay in the cold meat4 ,squeeze in a little lemon juice and draw the stew-pan to the back of the stove1 but where it will cook no longer1 or the meat will harden4 ,serve on toast1 and pour the sauce over4 ,a glass of brandy added to this dish when the meat goes in is a great addition1 if an extra fine salmi is desired4 ,by not allowing the flour and butter to brown and using white wine1 this is a very fine sauce in which to warm cold chicken1 veal1 or any white meat4 ,b,,oe,,uf ,,la ,,jardini,,re4--,put in a fireproof dish if you have it1 or a thick saucepan1 a pint of beef broth1 a small bunch each of parsley1 chervil1 tarragon--very little of this--shallot or onion1 capers1 pickled gherkins1 of each or any a teaspoonful chopped fine2 roll a large tablespoonful of butter with a dessert-spoonful of brown flour1 stir it in2 then take slices of underdone beef1 with a blunt knife hack each slice all over in fine dice1 but not to separate or cut up the slices2 then pepper and salt each one and lay it in with the herbs1 sprinkle a layer of herbs over the beef and cover closely2 then stand the dish in the oven to slowly cook for an hour1 or1 if you use a stew-pan1 set in a pan of boiling water on the stove for an hour where the water will just boil4 ,serve on a dish surrounded with young carrots and turnips if in season1 or old ones cut4 ,,beef ,,au ,,gratin4--,cut a little fat bacon or pork very thin1 sprinkle on it chopped parsley1 onion1 and mushrooms 7mushroom powder will do7 and bread-crumbs2 then put in layers of beef1 cut thick1 and well and closely hacked1 then another layer of bacon or pork cut thin as a wafer1 and of seasoning1 crumbs last2 pour over enough broth or gravy to moisten well1 in which a little brandy or wine may be added if an especially good dish is desired2 bake slowly an hour4 ,,pseudo ,,beefsteak4--,cut cold boiled or roast beef in thick slices1 broil slowly1 lay in a hot dish in which you have a large spoonful of ,montpellier butter melted1 sprinkle a little mushroom powder if you desire1 and garnish with fried potato4 ,,cutlets ,,la ,,jardini,,re4--,trim some thick cutlets from a cold leg of mutton1 or chops from the loin1 dip them in frying batter1 la ,carme1 fry crisp and quickly1 and serve wreathed round green peas1 or a ragout made as follows3 ,take young carrots1 turnips1 green peas1 white beans2 stew gently in a little water to which the bones of the meat and trimmings have been added 7and which must be carefully removed not to disfigure the vegetables74 ,encircle this ragout with the fried cutlets1 and crown with a cauliflower4 ,,cromesquis ,,of ,,lamb is a ,polish recipe4 ,cut some underdone lamb--mutton will of course do--quite small2 also some mushrooms1 cut small1 or the powder4 ,put in a saucepan a piece of glaze the size of a pigeon's egg1 with a little water or broth1 warm it and thicken with yolks of two eggs1 just as you would make boiled custard1 that is1 without letting it come to the boil1 or it will curdle2 then add the mushrooms and meat1 let all get cold1 and divide it into small pieces1 roll in bread-crumbs sifted1 then in egg1 then in crumbs again1 and fry in very hot fat2 or you may1 after rolling in bread-crumbs1 lay each piece in a spoon and dip it into frying batter2 let the extra batter run off1 and drop the cromesquis into the hot fat4 ,these will be good made of beef and rolled up in a bard of fat pork cut thin1 and fried2 serve with sauce piquant made thus3 ,take some chopped parsley1 onion1 and pickled cucumbers1 simmer till tender1 and thicken with an equal quantity of butter and flour4 ,of course your own brightness will tell you that1 if you are in haste1 a spoonful of ,montpellier butter1 the same of flour1 melted in a little water1 to which you add a teaspoonful of vinegar1 will make an excellent sauce piquant1 and this same is excellent for anything fried1 as breaded chops1 croquettes1 etc4 ,i may here say1 that where two or three herbs are mentioned as necessary1 for instance1 parsley1 tarragon1 and chervil1 if you have no tarragon you must leave it out1 or chervil the same4 ,it is only a matter of flavoring1 at the same time flavor is a great deal1 and these ,french herbs give that indescribable cachet to a dish which is one of the secrets of ,french cooking4 ,therefore if you are a wise matron you will have a supply on hand1 even if only bought dry from the druggist4 ,,miroton ,,of ,,beef4--,peel and cut into thin slices two large onions1 put them in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter1 place it over a slow fire2 stir the onions round till they are rather brown1 but not in the least burnt2 add a teaspoonful of brown flour1 mix smoothly1 then moisten with half a pint of broth1 or water with a little piece of glaze1 three salt-spoonfuls of salt unless your broth was salted1 then half the quantity or less1 two of sugar1 and one of pepper4 ,put in the cold beef1 cut in thin slices as lean as possible1 let it remain five minutes at the back of the stove2 then serve on a very hot dish garnished with fried potatoes1 or sippets of toast4 ,to vary the flavor1 sometimes put a spoonful of tarragon or plain vinegar1 or a teaspoonful of mushroom powder1 or a pinch of curry1 unless objected to1 or a few sweet herbs4 ,in fact1 as you may see1 variety is as easy to produce as it is rare to meet with in average cooking1 and depends more on intelligence and thoughtfulness than on anything else4 ,the simplest of all ways of warming a joint that is not far cut1 is to wrap it in thickly buttered paper1 and put it in the oven again1 contriving1 if possible1 to cover it closely1 let it remain long enough to get hot through1 not to cook4 ,by keeping it closely covered it will get hot through in less time1 and the steam will prevent it getting hard and dry2 make some gravy hot and serve with the meat4 ,if your gravy is good and plentiful1 your meat will be as nice as the first day2 without gravy it would be an unsatisfactory dish4 ,if you cannot manage to cover the joint in the oven1 you may put it in a pot over the fire without water1 but with a dessert spoonful of vinegar to create steam2 let it get hot through1 and serve as before4 ,for the third day the meat may be warmed up in any of the ways ,i am going to mention1 repeating once more1 that you must have gravy of some kind1 or else carefully make some1 with cracked bones1 gristle1 etc41 stewed long1 and nicely flavored with any kind of sauce4 ,,ragout4--,a very nice ragout may be made from cold meat thus3 ,slice the meat1 put it in a stew-pan in which an onion1 or several if you like them1 has been sliced2 squeeze half a lemon into it1 or a dessert-spoonful of vinegar1 cover closely without water1 and when it begins to cook1 set the stew-pan at the back of the stove for three quarters of an hour1 shaking it occasionally4 ,the onions should now be brown2 take out the meat1 dredge in a little flour1 stir it round1 and add a cup of gravy1 pepper1 salt1 and a small quantity of any sauce or flavoring you prefer2 stew gently a minute or two1 then put the meat back to get hot1 and serve2 garnish with sippets of toast1 or pickles4 ,a ,,nice ,,little ,,breakfast ,,dish ,,is made thus3 ,cut two long slices of cold meat and three of bread1 buttered thickly1 about the same shape and size2 season the meat with pepper1 salt1 and a little finely chopped parsley2 or1 if it is veal1 a little chopped ham2 then lay one slice of bread between two of meat1 and have the other two slices outside2 fasten together with short wooden skewers4 ,if you have a quick oven1 put it in2 and take care to baste with butter thoroughly1 that the bread may be all over crisp and brown4 ,if you can't depend on your oven1 fry it in very hot fat as you would crullers2 garnish with sprigs of parsley1 and serve very hot4 ,,to ,,warm ,a ,,good-,,sized ,,piece ,,of ,,beef4--,trim it as much like a thick fillet as you can2 cut it horizontally half way through1 then scoop out as much as you can of the meat from the inside of each piece4 ,chop the meat fine that you have thus scooped out1 season with a little finely chopped parsley and thyme1 a shred of onion1 if you like it2 or if you have celery boil a little of the coarser part till tender1 chop it and add as much bread finely crumbled as you have meat1 and a good piece of butter2 add pepper and salt1 and make all into a paste with an egg1 mixed with an equal quantity of gravy or milk2 fill up the hollow in the meat and tie1 or still better1 sew it together4 ,you may either put this in a pot with a slice of pork or bacon1 and a cup of gravy2 or you may brush it over with beaten egg1 cover it with crumbs1 and pour over these a cup of butter1 melted1 so that it moistens every part2 and bake it1 taking care to baste well while baking2 serve with nice gravy4 ,,beef ,,olives are no novelty to the ear1 but it is a novel thing to find them satisfactory to the palate4 ,take some stale bread-crumbs1 an equal quantity of beef finely chopped1 some parsley1 and thyme2 a little scraped ham if you have it1 a few chives1 or a slice of onion1 all chopped small as possible2 put some butter in a pan1 and let this force-meat just simmer1 not fry1 in it for ten minutes4 ,while this is cooking1 cut some underdone oblong slices of beef about half an inch thick1 hack it with a sharp knife on both sides2 then mix the cooked force-meat with the yolk of an egg and a tablespoonful of gravy2 put a spoonful of this paste in the center of each slice of meat and tie it up carefully in the shape of an egg4 ,then if you have some nice gravy1 thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour1 roll each olive slightly in flour and lay it in the gravy and let it very gently simmer for half an hour4 ,a few chopped oysters added to the gravy will be a great addition4 ,or you may lay each olive on a thin slice of fat pork1 roll it up1 tie it1 dip it in flour1 and bake in a quick oven until beautifully brown4 ,,to ,,warm ,,over ,,cold ,,mutton4--,an excellent and simple way is to cut it1 if loin1 into chops1 or leg1 into thick collops1 and dip each into egg well beaten with a tablespoonful of milk1 then in fine bread-crumbs and fry in plenty of very hot fat4 ,if your crumbs are not very fine and even1 the larger crumbs will fall off1 and the appearance be spoilt4 ,these chops will be almost as nice1 if quickly fried1 as fresh cooked ones4 ,they will also be excellent if1 instead of being breaded1 they are dipped into thick batter 7see recipe7 and fried brown in the same way4 ,this method answers for any kind of meat1 chicken thus warmed over being especially good4 ,the batter1 or egg and bread-crumbs form a sort of crust which keeps it tender and juicy4 ,any attempt to fry cold meat without either results in a hard1 stringy1 uneatable dish4 ,,white ,,meat ,,of ,,any ,,kind is excellent warmed over in a little milk1 in which you have cut a large onion1 and1 if you like it1 a slice of salt pork or ham1 and a little sliced cucumber1 if it is summer2 thicken with the yolks of one or two eggs1 added after the whole has simmered twenty minutes2 take care the egg thickens in the gravy1 but does not boil1 or it will curdle4 ,if it is in winter1 chop a teaspoonful of pickled cucumber or capers and add just on going to table4 ,in summer when you have the sliced cucumber1 squeeze half a lemon into the gravy1 the last thing1 to give the requisite dash of acid4 ,you may vary the above by adding sometimes a few chopped oysters2 at others1 mushrooms1 or celery4 ,the last must be put in with the onion and before the meat4 ,,deviled ,,meat4--,our better halves are usually fond of this1 especially for breakfast or lunch4 ,for this dish take a pair of turkey or chicken drumsticks or some nice thick wedges of underdone beef or mutton1 score them deeply with a knife and rub them over with a sauce made thus3 ,a teaspoonful of vinegar1 the same of ,harvey or ,worcestershire sauce1 the same of mustard1 a little cayenne1 and a tablespoonful of salad oil1 or butter melted2 mix all till like cream1 and take care your meat is thoroughly moistened all over with the mixture1 then rub your gridiron with butter4 ,see that the fire is clear1 and while the gridiron is getting hot1 chop a teaspoonful of parsley very fine1 mix it up with a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 and lay this in a dish which you will put to get hot4 ,then put the meat to be grilled on the fire and turn often1 so that it will not burn2 when hot through and brown1 lay it in the hot dish1 lay another hot dish over it1 and serve as quickly as possible with hot plates4 ,or the grill may be served with what ,soyer calls his ,mephistophelian sauce1 which he especially designed for serving with deviled meats4 ,chop six shallots or small onions1 wash and press them in the corner of a clean cloth1 put them in a stew-pan with half a wineglass of chili vinegar 7pepper sauce71 a chopped clove1 a tiny bit of garlic1 two bay leaves1 an ounce of glaze2 boil all together ten minutes2 then add four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce1 a little sugar1 and ten of broth thickened with roux 7or water will do if you have no broth74 ,it will be remarked that in many ,french recipes a little sugar is ordered4 ,this is not meant to sweeten1 or even be perceptible2 but it enriches1 softens1 tones1 as it were1 the other ingredients as salt does4 ,,soyer',s ,,fritadella 7twenty recipes in one74--,put half a pound of bread-crumb to soak in a pint of cold water2 take the same quantity of any kind of roast1 or boiled meat1 with a little fat1 chop it fine1 press the bread in a clean cloth to extract the water2 put in a stew-pan two ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of chopped onions2 fry two minutes and stir1 then add the bread1 stir and fry till rather dry1 then the meat2 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 half of pepper1 and a little grated nutmeg1 and lemon peel2 stir continually till very hot1 then add two eggs1 one at a time2 mix well and pour on a dish to get cold4 ,then take a piece1 shape it like a small egg1 flatten it a little1 egg and bread-crumb it all over1 taking care to keep in good shape4 ,do all the same way1 then put into a frying-pan a quarter of a pound of lard or dripping1 let it get hot1 and put in the pieces1 and saut 7or as we call it fry7 them a fine yellow brown4 ,serve very hot with a border of mashed potatoes1 or any garniture you fancy4 ,sauce piquant1 or not1 as you please4 ,the above can be made with any kind of meat1 poultry1 game1 fish1 or even vegetables2 hard eggs1 or potatoes1 may be introduced in small quantities1 and they may be fried instead of sauted 7frying in the ,french and strict sense1 meaning as ,i need hardly say1 entire immersion in very hot fat74 ,to fry them you require at least two pounds of fat in your pan4 ,oysters or lobsters prepared as above are excellent4 ,boileau says1 ,un diner rchauff ne valut jamais rien4 ,but ,i think a good ,french cook of the present day would make him alter his opinion4 ,indeed ,savarin quotes a friend of his own1 a notable gourmand1 who considered spinach cooked on ,monday only reached perfection the following ,saturday1 having each day of the week been warmed up with butter1 and each day gaining succulence and a more marrowy consistency4 ,the only trouble ,i find in relation to this part of my present task is the difficulty of knowing when to leave off4 ,there are so many ways of warming meats to advantage--and in every one way there is the suggestion for another--that ,i suffer from an embarras de richesse1 and have had difficulty in selecting4 ,dozens come to my mind1 blanquettes1 patties1 curries1 as ,i write2 but as this is not1 ,i have said1 to be a recipe book1 ,i forbear4 ,of one thing ,i am quite sure3 when women once know how to make nice dishes of cold meat they will live well where they now live badly1 and for less money2 and hash will be relegated to its proper place as an occasional and acceptable dish4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,friandises4 ,le rle du gourmand finit avec l'entremets1 et celui du friand commence au dessert4--,grimod de la ,reynire4 ,,american ladies1 as a rule1 excel in cake making and preserving1 and ,i feel that on that head ,i have very little to teach2 indeed1 were they as accomplished in all branches of cooking as in making dainty sweet dishes this book would be uncalled for4 ,yet1 notwithstanding their undoubted taste and ability in making friandises1 it seems to me a few recipes borrowed from what the ,french call la grande cuisine1 and possible of execution at home1 will be welcome to those who wish to vary the eternal ice cream and charlotte russe1 with other sweets more elegant and likely to be equally popular4 ,,iced ,,souffl ,,la ,,byron4--,one pint of sugar syrup of #cb degrees 7get this at a druggist's if you do not understand sugar boiling71 three gills of strained raspberry juice1 one lemon1 one gill of maraschino1 fifteen yolks of eggs1 two ounces of chocolate drops1 half a pint of very thick cream whipped4 ,method of making this and the next recipe is as follows3 ,mix the syrup and yolks of eggs1 strain into a warm bowl1 add the raspberry and lemon juice and maraschino1 whisk till it creams well1 then take the bowl out of the hot water and whisk ten minutes longer2 add the chocolate drops and whipped cream2 lightly fill a case or mold1 and set in a freezer for two hours1 then cover the surface with lady-fingers 7or sponge cake7 dried in the oven a pale brown1 and rolled4 ,serve at once4 ,another frozen souffl is as follows3 ,one pint of syrup1 #cb degrees1 half a pint of noyeau1 half a pint of cherry juice1 two ounces of bruised macaroons1 half a pint of thick cream whipped1 made in the same way as the last4 ,i may here say that the fruit juices can be procured now at all good druggists1 so that these souffls are very attainable in winter1 and as noyeau and maraschino do not form part of the stores in a family of small means1 ,i will give in this chapter recipes for the making of very fair imitations of the genuine liqueurs4 ,,biscuit ,,glac ,,la ,,charles ,,dickens4--,one pint of syrup 7#cb71 fifteen yolks of eggs1 three gills of peach pulp1 colored pink with cochineal1 one gill of noyeau1 half a pint of thick cream1 and a little chocolate water-ice1 made with half a pint of syrup and four ounces of the best chocolate smoothly mixed and frozen ready4 ,mix syrup1 yolks1 peach pulps1 noyeau1 and a few drops of vanilla1 whip high2 mix with the whipped cream1 and set in ice for one hour and a half in brick-shaped molds1 then turn out 7if very firm71 and cut in slices an inch thick1 and coat them all over1 or on top and sides1 with the chocolate ice1 smoothing with a knife dipped in cold water2 serve in paper cases4 ,,biscuit ,,glac ,,la ,,thackeray4--,one pint of syrup 7#cb71 one pint of strawberry pulp1 fifteen yolks of eggs1 one ounce of vanilla sugar 7flavor a little sugar with vanilla71 half a pint of thick cream4 ,mix syrup1 yolks1 strawberry1 and vanilla sugar1 whipping as before1 then add the whipped cream lightly2 fill paper cases1 either round or square2 surround each with a band of stiff paper1 to reach half an inch above the edge of the case1 the bands to be pinned together to secure them2 place them in a freezer4 ,when about to send to table1 remove the bands of paper1 and cover with macaroons bruised fine and browned in the oven4 ,the bands of paper are meant to give the biscuit the appearance of having risen while supposed to bake4 ,these delicious ices were invented by ,francatelli1 the ,queen of ,england's chief cook1 to do homage to the different great men whose names they bear1 on the occasion of preparing dinners given in their honor4 ,they read as if somewhat intricate1 but any lady who has ever had ice cream made at home1 and had the patience to make charlotte russe1 need not shrink appalled before these novelties1 or fear for a successful result4 ,baba is a cake many call for at a confectioner's1 yet few1 if any one1 attempts to make it at home4 ,that the recipes generally offered do not lead to success may be one reason1 and ,i offer the following1 quite sure1 if accurately followed1 such a baba will result as never was eaten outside of ,paris4 ,,baba4--,one pound of flour2 take one quarter of it1 and make a sponge with half an ounce of compressed yeast and a little warm water1 set it to rise1 make a hole in the rest of the flour1 add to it ten ounces of butter1 three eggs1 and a dessert-spoonful of sugar1 a little salt1 unless your butter salts it enough1 which is generally the case4 ,beat all together well1 then add five more eggs1 one at a time1 that is to say1 add one egg and beat well1 then another and beat again1 and so on until the five are used4 ,when the paste leaves the bowl it is beaten enough1 but not before2 then add the sponge to it1 and a large half ounce of citron chopped1 the same of currants1 and an ounce and a half of sultana raisins1 seedless4 ,let it rise to twice its size1 then bake it in an oven of dark yellow paper heat2 the small round babas are an innovation of the pastry-cook to enable him to sell them uncut4 ,but the baba proper should be baked in a large1 deep1 upright tin1 such as a large charlotte russe mold1 when they keep for several days fresh1 and if they get stale1 make delicious fritters1 soaked in sherry and dipped in frying batter4 ,in some cases1 however1 it may be preferred to make them as usually seen at ,french pastry cooks2 for this purpose you require a dozen small-sized round charlotte russe molds1 which fill half full only1 as they rise very much2 bake these in a hotter oven1 light brown paper heat2 try with a twig as you would any other cake1 if it comes out dry it is done2 then prepare a syrup as follows3 ,boil half pound of sugar in a pint of water1 add to this the third of a pint of rum1 and some apricot pulp--peach will of course do--and boil all together a few minutes2 pour this half an inch deep in a dish1 and stand the cake or cakes in it2 it should drink up all the syrup1 you may also sprinkle some over it4 ,if any syrup remains1 use it to warm over your cake when stale1 instead of the sherry4 ,baba was introduced into ,france by ,stanislas ,leczinski1 king of ,poland1 and the father-in-law of ,louis ,,xiv42 and his ,polish royal descendants still use with it1 says ,carme1 a syrup made of ,malaga wine and one sixth part of eau de tanaisie4 ,but1 although our forefathers seemed to have relished tansy very much1 to judge from old recipe books1 ,i doubt if such flavoring would be appreciated in our time4 ,,savarins--commonly called wine cake by ,new ,york pastry cooks--are made as follows3 ,one pound of flour1 of which take one quarter to make a sponge1 using half an ounce of ,german compressed yeast1 and a little warm milk2 when it has risen to twice its bulk1 add one gill of hot milk1 two eggs1 and the rest of the flour2 mix well2 then add one more egg and beat1 another1 still beating2 then add three quarters of a pound of fresh butter1 a quarter of an ounce of salt1 half an ounce of sugar1 and half a gill of hot milk1 beat well2 then add eggs1 one at a time1 beating continually1 until you have used five more4 ,cut in small dice three ounces of candied orange peel2 butter a tin1 which should be deep and straight-sided--a tin pudding boiler is not a bad thing--and sprinkle with chopped almonds4 ,fill the mold half full1 and when risen to twice its bulk1 bake in a moderate oven1 dark yellow paper heat4 ,when served1 this cake should stand in a dish of syrup1 flavored with rum1 as for baba1 or with sherry wine4 ,,bouch,,es ,,des ,,dames1 a very ornamental and delicious little ,french cake1 is sufficiently novel to deserve a place here1 ,i think4 ,make any nice drop cake batter 7either sponge1 or sponge with a little butter in it ,i prefer72 drop one on buttered paper and bake2 if it runs1 beat in a little more flour and sugar1 but not much1 or your cakes will be brittle2 they should be the size1 when done1 of a fifty-cent piece1 and ,i find half a teaspoonful of batter dropped generally makes them about right4 ,have a tin cutter or tin box lid1 if you have no cutter so small1 about the size1 and with it trim each cake when baked2 then take half the number and spread some with a very thin layer of red currant jelly1 others with peach or raspberry2 then on each so spread put a cake that is unspread1 thus making a tiny sandwich or jelly cake4 ,if you have different sorts of jelly1 put each separate1 as you must adapt the flavor of your icing to the jelly4 ,for red currant1 ice with chocolate icing4 ,recipes for icing are so general that ,i refer you to your cookery book4 ,those with peach may have white icing1 flavored with almond1 or with rum1 beating in a little more sugar if the flavoring dilutes your icing too much4 ,almond flavoring goes well with raspberry4 ,cakes with raspberry jelly or jam should be iced pink1 coloring the icing with prepared cochineal or cranberry juice4 ,thus you have your cakes brown1 pink1 and white1 which look very pretty mixed4 ,the process of icing is difficult to do after they are put together1 but they are much handsomer this way1 and keep longer4 ,you require1 to accomplish it1 a good quantity of each kind of icing1 and a number of little wooden skewers2 stick one into each cake and dip it in the icing1 let it run off1 then stand the other end of the skewer in a box of sand or granulated sugar4 ,the easiest way is to ice each half cake before putting in the jelly2 when the icing is hard spread with jelly1 and put together4 ,,cura,,oa may be successfully imitated by pouring over eight ounces of the thinly pared rind of very ripe oranges a pint of boiling water1 cover1 and let it cool2 then add two quarts of brandy1 or strong ,french spirit1 cover closely1 and let it stand fourteen days1 shaking it every day4 ,make a clarified syrup of two pounds of sugar into one pint of water1 well boiled2 strain the brandy into it1 leaving it covered close another day4 ,rub up in a mortar one drachm of potash1 with a teaspoonful of the liqueurs2 when well blended1 put this into the liqueur1 and in the same way pound and add a drachm of alum1 shake well1 and in an hour or two filter through thin muslin4 ,ready for use in a week or two4 ,,maraschino4--,bruise slightly a dozen cherry kernels1 put them in a deep jar with the outer rind of three oranges and two lemons1 cover with two quarts of gin1 then add syrup and leave it a fortnight1 as for curaoa4 ,stir syrup and spirit together1 leave it another day1 run it through a jelly bag1 and bottle4 ,ready to use in ten days4 ,,noyeau4--,blanch and pound two pounds of bitter almonds1 or four of peach kernels2 put to them a gallon of spirit or brandy1 two pounds of white sugar candy--or sugar will do--a grated nutmeg1 and a pod of vanilla2 leave it three weeks covered close1 then filter and bottle2 but do not use it for three months4 ,to be used with caution4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,french ,,candy ,,at ,,home4 ,,this chapter ,i shall have to make one of recipes chiefly1 for it treats of a branch of cooking not usually found in cookery books1 or at least there is seldom anything on the art of confectionery beyond molasses or cream taffy and nougat4 ,these1 therefore1 ,i shall not touch upon1 but rather show you how to make the expensive ,french candies4 ,the great art of making these exquisite candies is in boiling the sugar1 and it is an art easily acquired with patience4 ,put into a marbleized saucepan 7by long experience in sugar-boiling ,i find them less likely to burn even than brass1 and ,i keep one for the purpose7 one pound of sugar and half a pint of water2 when it has boiled ten minutes begin to try it2 have a bowl of water with a piece of ice near you1 and drop it from the end of a spoon4 ,when it falls to the bottom1 and you can take it up and make it into a softish ball 7not at all sticky7 between your thumb and finger1 it is at the right point2 remove it from the fire to a cold place2 when cool1 if perfectly right1 a thin jelly-like film will be over the surface1 not a sugary one2 if it is sugary1 and you want your candy very creamy1 you must add a few spoonfuls of water1 return to the fire and boil again1 going through the same process of trying it4 ,you must be careful that there is not the least inclination to be brittle in the ball of candy you take from the water2 if so1 it is boiled a degree too high2 put a little water to bring it back again1 and try once more4 ,a speck of cream of tartar is useful in checking a tendency in the syrup to go to sugar4 ,when you have your sugar boiled just right set it to cool1 and when you can bear your finger in it1 begin to beat it with a spoon2 in ten minutes it will be a white paste resembling lard1 which you will find you can work like bread dough4 ,this1 then1 is your foundation1 called by ,french confectioners fondant2 with your fondant you can work marvels4 ,but to begin with the simplest ,french candies4 ,take a piece of fondant1 flavor part of it with vanilla1 part of it with lemon1 color yellow 7see coloring candies71 and another part with raspberry1 color pink2 make these into balls1 grooved cones1 or anything that strikes your fancy1 let them stand till they harden1 they are then ready for use4 ,take another part of your fondant1 have some ,english walnuts chopped1 flavor with vanilla and color pink2 work the walnuts into the paste as you would fruit into a loaf cake2 when mixed1 make a paper case an inch wide and deep1 and three or four inches long2 oil it2 press the paste into it1 and when firm turn it out and cut into cubes4 ,or1 instead of walnuts1 use chopped almonds1 flavor with vanilla1 and leave the fondant white4 ,this makes ,,vanilla ,,almond ,,cream4 ,,tutti ,,frutti ,,candy4--,chop some almonds1 citron1 a few currants1 and seedless raisins2 work into some fondant1 flavor with rum and lemon1 thus making ,roman punch1 or with vanilla or raspberry2 press into the paper forms as you did the walnut cream4 ,you see how you can ring the changes on these bars1 varying the flavoring1 inventing new combinations1 etc4 ,,fondant ,,panach4--,take your fondant1 divide it in three equal parts1 color one pink and flavor as you choose1 leave the other white and flavor also as you please2 but it must agree with the pink1 and both must agree with the next1 which is chocolate4 ,melt a little unsweetened chocolate by setting it in a saucer over the boiling kettle1 then take enough of it to make your third piece of fondant a fine brown2 now divide the white into two parts2 make each an inch and a half wide1 and as long as it will2 do the same with the chocolate fondant2 then take the pink1 make it the same width and length1 but of course1 not being divided1 it will be twice as thick2 now butter slightly the back of a plate1 or1 better still1 get a few sheets of waxed paper from the confectioner's2 lay one strip of the chocolate on it1 then a strip of white on that1 then the pink1 the other white1 and lastly the chocolate again2 then lightly press them to make them adhere1 but not to squeeze them out of shape4 ,you have now an oblong brick of parti-colored candy2 leave it for a few hours to harden1 then trim it neatly with a knife and cut it crosswise into slices half an inch think1 lay on waxed paper to dry1 turning once in a while1 and pack away in boxes4 ,if your fondant gets very hard while you work1 stand it over hot water a few minutes4 ,creamed candies are very fashionable just now1 and1 your fondant once ready1 are very easy to make4 ,,cream ,,walnuts4--,make ready some almonds1 some walnuts in halves1 some hazelnuts1 or anything of the sort you fancy2 let them be very dry4 ,take fondant made from a pound of sugar1 set it in a bowl in a saucepan of boiling water1 stirring it till it is like cream4 ,then having flavored it with vanilla or lemon1 drop in your nuts one by one1 taking them out with the other hand on the end of a fork1 resting it on the edge of your bowl to drain for a second1 then drop the nut on to a waxed or buttered paper neatly4 ,if the nut shows through the cream it is too hot2 take it out of the boiling water and beat till it is just thick enough to mask the nut entirely1 then return it to the boiling water1 as it cools very rapidly and becomes unmanageable1 when it has to be warmed over again4 ,,very ,,fine ,,chocolate ,,creams are made as follows3 ,boil half a pound of sugar with three tablespoonfuls of thick cream till it makes a soft ball in water1 then let it cool4 ,when cool beat it till it is very white1 flavor with a few drops of vanilla and make it into balls the size of a large pea2 then take some unsweetened chocolate warmed1 mix it with a piece of fondant melted--there should be more chocolate than sugar--and when quite smooth and thick enough to mask the cream1 drop them in from the end of a fork1 take them out1 and drop on to wax paper4 ,another very fine candy to be made without heat1 and therefore convenient for hot weather1 is made as follows3 ,,punch ,,drops4--,sift some powdered sugar4 ,have ready some fine white gum-arabic1 put a tablespoonful with the sugar 7say half a pound of sugar71 and make it into a firm paste2 if too wet1 add more sugar1 flavor with lemon and a tiny speck of tartaric acid or a very little lemon juice4 ,make the paste into small balls1 then take more sugar and make it into icing with a spoonful of ,santa ,cruz rum and half the white of an egg4 ,try if it hardens1 if not1 beat in more sugar and color it a bright pink1 then dip each ball in the pink icing and harden on wax paper4 ,these are very novel1 beautiful to look at1 and the flavors may vary to taste4 ,,to ,,make ,,cochineal ,,coloring ,,which ,,is ,,quite ,,harmless4--,take one ounce of powdered cochineal1 one ounce of cream of tartar1 two drachms of alum1 half a pint of water2 boil the cochineal1 water1 and cream of tartar till reduced to one half1 then add the alum1 and put up in small bottles for use4 ,yellow is obtained by the infusion of ,spanish saffron in a little water1 or a still better one from the grated rind of a ripe orange put into muslin1 and a little of the juice squeezed through it4 ,be careful in boiling the sugar for fondant1 not to stir it after it is dissolved2 stirring causes it to become rough instead of creamy4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,a ,,chapter ,,for ,,people ,,of ,,very ,,small ,,means4 ,i ,,am sorry to say in these days this chapter may appeal to many1 who are yet not to be called poor people1 who may have been well-to-do and only suffering from the pressure of the times1 and for whose cultivated appetites the coarse1 substantial food of the laboring man 7even if they could buy it7 would not be eatable1 who must have what they do have good1 or starve4 ,but1 as some of the things for which ,i give recipes will seem over-economical for people who can afford to buy meat at least once a day1 ,i advise those who have even fifty dollars a month income to skip it2 reminding them1 if they do not1 that necessity knows no law4 ,a bone of soup meat can be got at a good butcher's for ten or fifteen cents1 and is about the best investment1 for that sum ,i know of1 as two nourishing and savory meals1 at least1 for four or five persons can be got from it4 ,carefully make a nice soup1 with plenty of vegetables1 rice1 or any other thickening you like4 ,your bone will weigh from four to six pounds1 perhaps2 put it on with water according to size1 and let it boil down slowly until nice and strong4 ,if you have had any scraps of meat or bones1 put them also to your soup4 ,when you serve it1 keep back a cup of soup and a few of the vegetables1 and save the meat1 from which you can make a very appetizing hash in the following way3 ,take the meat from the bone1 chop it with some cold potatoes and the vegetables you saved from the soup4 ,cold stewed onions1 boiled carrots or turnips1 all help to make the dish savory4 ,chop an onion very fine1 unless you have cold ones1 a little parsley and thyme1 if liked1 and sometimes1 for variety's sake1 if you have it1 a pinch of curry powder1 not enough to make it hot or yellow1 yet to impart piquancy4 ,if you have a tiny bit of fried bacon or cold ham or cold pork1 chop it with the other ingredients1 mix all well1 moisten with the cold soup1 and1 when nicely seasoned1 put the hash into an iron frying-pan1 in which you have a little fat made hot2 pack it smoothly in1 cover it with a pot-lid1 and either set it in a hot oven1 or leave it to brown on the stove4 ,if there was more soup than enough to moisten the hash1 put it on in a tiny saucepan1 with a little brown flour made into a paste with butter1 add a drop of tomato catsup1 or a little stewed tomato1 or anything you have for flavoring1 and stir till it boils4 ,then turn the hash out whole on a dish1 it should be brown and crisp1 pour the gravy you have made round it1 and serve4 ,for a change make a pie of the hash1 pouring the gravy in through a hole in the top when done4 ,it is not generally known that a very nice plain paste can be made with a piece of bread dough1 to which you have added an egg1 and some lard1 dripping1 or butter4 ,the dripping is particularly nice for the hash pie1 and1 as you need only a piece of dough as large as an orange1 you will probably have enough from the soup1 if you skimmed off all the fat before putting the vegetables in 7see pot-au-feu72 work your dripping into the dough1 and let it rise well1 then roll as ordinary pie-crust4 ,potato crust is also very good for plain pies of any sort1 but as there are plenty of recipes for it1 ,i will not give one here4 ,one of the very best hashes ,i ever ate was prepared by a lady who1 in better times1 kept a very fine table4 ,and she told me there were a good many cold beans in it1 well mashed2 and often since1 when taking travelers' hash in an hotel1 ,i have thought of that savory dish with regret4 ,instead of making your chopped meat into hash1 vary it1 by rolling the same mixture into egg-shaped pieces1 or flat cakes1 flouring them1 and frying them nicely in very hot fat2 pieces of pork or bacon fried and laid round will help out the dish1 and be an improvement to what is already very good4 ,to return once more to the soup bone4 ,if any one of your family is fond of marrow1 seal up each end of the bone with a paste made of flour and water4 ,when done1 take off the paste1 and remove the marrow4 ,made very hot1 and spread on toast1 with pepper and salt1 it will be a relish for some one's tea or breakfast4 ,in this country there is a prejudice against sheep's liver2 while in ,england1 where beef liver is looked upon as too coarse to eat 7and falls to the lot of the cats-meat man1 or cat butcher71 sheep's is esteemed next to calf's1 and it is1 in fact1 more delicate than beef liver4 ,the nicest way to cook it is in very thin slices 7not the inch-thick pieces one often sees71 each slice dipped in flour and fried in pork or bacon fat1 and pork or bacon served with it4 ,but the more economical way is to put it in a pan1 dredge it with flour1 pin some fat pork over it1 and set it in a hot oven2 when very brown take it out2 make nice brown gravy by pouring water in the pan and letting it boil on the stove1 stirring it well to dissolve the glaze2 pour into the dish1 and serve4 ,the heart should be stuffed with bread-crumbs1 parsley1 thyme1 and a little onion1 and baked separately4 ,or1 for a change1 you may chop the liver up with a few sweet herbs and a little pork 7onion1 or not1 as you like71 and some bread-crumbs4 ,put all together in a crock1 dredge with flour1 cover1 and set in a slow oven for an hour and a half2 then serve1 with toasted bread around the dish4 ,it is very poor economy to buy inferior meat4 ,one pound of fine beef has more nourishment than two of poor quality4 ,but there is a great difference in prices of different parts of meat1 and it is better management to choose the cheap part of fine beef than to buy the sirloin of a poor ox even at the same price2 and1 by good cooking many parts not usually chosen1 and therefore sold cheaply1 can be made very good4 ,yet you must remember1 that a piece of meat at seven cents a pound1 in which there is at least half fat and bone1 such as brisket1 etc41 is less economical than solid meat at ten or twelve4 ,pot roasts are very good for parts of meat not tender enough for roasting1 the cross-rib1 as some butchers term it1 being very good for this purpose2 it is all solid meat1 and being very lean1 requires a little fat pork1 which may be laid at the bottom of the pot2 or better still1 holes made in the meat and pieces of the fat drawn through1 larding in a rough way1 so that they cut together4 ,a pot roast is best put on in an iron pot1 without water1 allowed to get finely brown on one side1 then turned1 and when thoroughly brown on the other a little water may be added for gravy2 chop parsley or any seasoning that is preferred4 ,give your roast at least three hours to cook4 ,ox cheek1 as the head is called1 is very good1 and should be very cheap2 prepare it thus3 ,clean the cheek1 soak it in water six hours1 and cut the meat from the bones1 which break up for soup2 then take the meat1 cut into neat pieces1 put it in an earthen crock1 a layer of beef1 some thin pieces of pork or bacon1 some onions1 carrots1 and turnips1 cut thin1 or chopped fine1 and sprinkled over the meat2 also1 some chopped parsley1 a little thyme1 and bay leaf1 pepper and salt1 and a clove to each layer2 then more beef and a little pork1 vegetables1 and seasoning1 as before4 ,when all your meat is in pour over it1 if you have it1 a tumbler of hard cider and one of water1 or else two of water1 in which put a half gill of vinegar4 ,if you have no tight-fitting cover to your crock1 put a paste of flour and water over it to keep the steam in4 ,place the crock in a slow oven five or six hours1 and when it is taken out remove the crust and skim4 ,any piece of beef cooked in this way is excellent4 ,ox heart is one of the cheapest of dishes1 and really remarkably nice1 and it is much used by economical people abroad4 ,the heart should be soaked in vinegar and water three or four hours1 then cut off the lobes and gristle1 and stuff it with fat pork chopped1 bread-crumbs1 parsley1 thyme1 pepper1 and salt2 then tie it in a cloth and very slowly simmer it 7large end up7 for two hours2 take it up1 remove the cloth1 and flour it1 and roast it a nice brown4 ,lay in the pan in which it is to be roasted some fat pork to baste it4 ,any of this left over is excellent hashed1 or1 warmed in slices with a rich brown gravy1 cannot be told from game4 ,another way is to stuff it with sage and onions4 ,it must always be served very hot with hot plates and on a very hot dish4 ,fore quarter of mutton is another very economical part of meat1 if you get your butcher to cut it so that it may not only be economical1 but really afford a choice joint4 ,do not then let him hack the shoulder across1 but1 before he does a thing to it1 get him to take the shoulder out in a round plate-shaped joint1 with knuckle attached2 if he does this well1 that is1 cuts it close to the bone of the ribs1 you will have a nice joint2 then do not have it chopped at all2 this should be roasted in the oven very nicely1 and served with onion sauce or stewed onions4 ,if onions are not liked1 mashed turnips are the appropriate vegetable4 ,this joint1 to be enjoyed1 must be properly carved1 and that is1 across the middle from the edge to the bone1 the same as a leg of mutton2 and like the leg1 you must learn1 as ,i cannot describe it in words1 where the bone lies1 then have that side nearest you and cut from the opposite side4 ,you have1 besides this joint1 another roast from the ribs1 or else cut it up into chops till you come to the part under the shoulder2 from this the breast should be separated and both either made into a good ,irish stew1 or the breast prepared alone in a way ,i shall describe1 the neck and thin ribs being stewed or boiled4 ,the neck of mutton is very tender boiled and served with parsley or caper sauce2 the liquor it is boiled in served as broth1 with vegetables and rice1 or prepared as directed in a former chapter for the broth from leg of mutton4 ,the mode ,i am about to give of preparing breast of mutton was told me by a ,welsh lady of rank1 at whose table ,i ate it 7it appeared as a side dish71 and who said1 half laughingly1 ,will you take some 'fluff'8 ,we are very fond of it1 but breast of mutton is such a despised dish ,i never expect any one else to like it4 ,i took it1 on my principle of trying everything1 and did find it very good4 ,this lady told me that1 having of course a good deal of mutton killed on her father's estate1 and the breast being always despised by the servants1 she had invented a way of using it to avoid waste4 ,her way was this3 ,set the breast of mutton on the fire whole1 just covered with water in which is a little salt4 ,when it comes to the boil draw it back and let it simmer three hours2 then take it up and draw out the bones1 and lay a force-meat of bread-crumbs1 parsley1 thyme1 chopped suet1 salt and pepper all over it2 double or roll it1 skewer it1 and coat it thickly with egg and bread-crumbs2 then bake in a moderate oven1 basting it often with nice dripping or butter2 when nicely brown it is done1 and eats like the tenderest lamb4 ,it was1 when ,i saw it1 served on a bed of spinach4 ,i like it better on a bed of stewed onions4 ,i now give some dishes made without meat4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,cucumber ,,and ,,onions4--,fry equal quantities of large cucumbers and onions in slices until they are a nice brown4 ,the cucumber will brown more easily if cut up and put to drain some time before using2 then flour each slice4 ,when both are brown1 pour on them a cup of water1 and let them stew for half an hour2 then take a good piece of butter in which you have worked a dessert-spoonful of flour 7browned72 add pepper1 salt1 and a little tomato catsup or stewed tomato4 ,this is a rich-eating dish if nicely made1 and will help out cold meat or a scant quantity of it very well4 ,a little cold meat may be added if you have it4 ,,onion ,,soup4--,fry six large onions cut into slices with a quarter of a pound of butter till they are of a bright brown1 then well mix in a tablespoonful of flour1 and pour on them rather more than a quart of water4 ,stew gently until the onions are quite tender1 season with a spoonful of salt and a little sugar2 stir in quickly a liaison made with the yolks of two eggs mixed with a gill of milk or cream 7do not let it boil afterwards71 put some toast in a tureen1 and serve very hot4 ,,pea ,,soup4--,steep some yellow split peas all night1 next morning set them on to boil with two quarts of water to a pint of peas2 in the water put a tiny bit of soda4 ,in another pot put a large carrot1 a turnip1 an onion1 and a large head of celery1 all cut small and covered with water4 ,when both peas and vegetables are tender1 put them together1 season with salt1 pepper1 and a little sugar1 and let them gently stew till thick enough2 then strain through a colander1 rubbing the vegetables well1 and return to the pot while you fry some sippets of bread a crisp brown2 then stir into the soup two ounces of butter in which you have rolled a little flour4 ,this soup is simply delicious1 and the fact of it being maigre will not be remembered4 ,,potato ,,soup is another of this good kind1 for meat is scarcely required1 so good is it without4 ,boil some potatoes1 then rub them through a colander into two quarts of hot milk 7skimmed does quite well72 have some fine-chopped parsley and onion1 add both with salt and pepper1 stew three quarters of an hour2 then stir in a large piece of butter1 and beat two eggs with a little cold milk1 stir in quickly1 and serve with fried bread4 ,there should be potatoes enough to make the soup as thick as cream4 ,do not be prejudiced against a dish because there is no meat in it1 and you think it cannot be nourishing4 ,this chapter is not written for those with whom meat1 or money1 is plentiful2 and if it be true that man is nourished not by what he eats1 but by what he assimilates1 and1 according to an ,american medical authority1 what is eaten with distaste is not assimilated 7,dr4 ,hall71 it follows that an enjoyable dinner1 even without meat1 will be more nourishing than one forced down because it lacks savor2 that potato soup will be more nourishing than potatoes and butter1 with a cup of milk to drink1 because more enjoyable4 ,yet it costs no more1 for the soup can be made without the eggs if they are scarce4 ,or say bread and butter and onions4 ,they will not be very appetizing1 especially if they had to be a frequent meal1 yet onion soup is made from the same materials1 and in ,france is a very favorite dish1 even with those well able to put meat in it if they wished4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,a ,,few ,,things ,,it ,,is ,,well ,,to ,,remember4 ,,every housekeeper has pet wrinkles of her own which she thinks are especially valuable2 some are known to all the world1 others are new to many4 ,so it may be with mine2 but1 on the chance that some few things are as new to my friends as they were to me1 ,i jot them down without any pretense of order or regularity4 ,lemons will keep fresher and better in water than any other way4 ,put them in a crock1 cover them with water4 ,they will in winter keep two or three months1 and the peel be as fresh as the day they were put in4 ,take care1 of course1 that they do not get frosted4 ,in summer change the water twice a week2 they will keep a long time4 ,in grating nutmegs begin at the flower end2 if you commence at the other1 there will be a hole all the way through4 ,tea or coffee made hot 7not at all scorched71 before water is added1 are more fragrant and stronger4 ,thus1 by putting three spoonfuls of tea in the pot and setting in a warm place before infusing1 it will be as strong as if you make tea with four spoonfuls without warming it1 and much more fragrant4 ,vegetables that are strong can be made much milder by tying a bit of bread in a clean rag and boiling it with them4 ,bread dough is just as good made the day before it is used2 thus1 a small family can have fresh bread one day1 rolls the next1 by putting the dough in a cold place enveloped in a damp cloth4 ,in winter1 kept cold1 yet not in danger of freezing1 it will keep a week4 ,celery seed takes the place of celery for soup or stews when it is scarce2 parsley seed of parsley4 ,green beans1 gherkins1 etc41 put down when plentiful in layers of rock salt1 will keep crisp and green for months1 and can be taken out and pickled when convenient4 ,lemon or orange peel grated and mixed with powdered sugar and a squeeze of its own juice 7the sugar making it into paste7 is excellent to keep for flavoring2 put it into a little pot and it will keep for a year4 ,bread that is very stale may be made quite fresh for an hour or two by dipping it quickly into milk or water1 and putting it in a brisk oven till quite hot through4 ,it must be eaten at once1 or it will be as stale as ever when cold4 ,meat to be kept in warm weather should be rubbed over with salad oil1 every crevice filled with ginger2 meat that is for roasting or frying is much better preserved in this way than with salt2 take care that every part of the surface has a coat of oil4 ,steaks or chops cut off1 which always keep badly1 should be dipped into warm butter or even dripping1 if oil is not handy 7the object being to exclude the air71 and then hung up till wanted4 ,mutton in cold weather should be hung four or five weeks in a place not subject to changes of temperature1 and before it is so hung1 every crevice filled with ginger and thoroughly dredged with flour1 which must be then rubbed in with the hand till the surface is quite dry4 ,this is the ,english fashion of keeping venison4 ,it may be useful for those who burn kerosene to know that when their lamps smell1 give a bad light1 and smoke1 it is not necessary to buy new burners4 ,put the old ones in an old saucepan with water and a tablespoonful of soda1 let them boil half an hour1 wipe them1 and your trouble will be over4 ,meat that has become slightly tainted may be quite restored by washing it in water in which is a teaspoonful of borax1 cutting away every part in the least discolored4 ,in summer when meat comes from the butcher's1 if it is not going to be used the same day1 it should be washed over with vinegar4 ,poultry in summer should always have a piece of charcoal tied in a rag placed in the stomach1 to be removed before cooking4 ,pieces of charcoal should also be put in the refrigerator and changed often4 ,oyster shells put one at a time in a stove that is clinkered will clean the bricks entirely4 ,they should be put in when the fire is burning brightly4 ,salt and soapstone powder 7to be bought at the druggist's7 mend fire brick2 use equal quantities1 make into a paste with water1 and cement the brick2 they will be as strong as new ones4 ,ink spilled on carpets may be entirely removed by rubbing while wet with blotting paper1 using fresh as it soils4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,on ,,some ,,table ,,prejudices4 ,,many people have strong prejudices against certain things which they have never even tasted1 or which they do frequently take and like as a part of something else1 without knowing it4 ,how common it is to hear and see untraveled people declare that they dislike garlic1 and could not touch anything with it in4 ,yet those very people will take ,worcestershire sauce1 in which garlic is actually predominant1 with everything they eat2 and think none but ,english pickles eatable1 which owe much of their excellence to the introduction of a soupon of garlic4 ,therefore ,i beg those who actually only know garlic from hearsay abuse of it1 or from its presence on the breath of some inveterate garlic eater1 to give it a fair trial when it appears in a recipe4 ,it is just one of those things that require the most delicate handling1 for which the ,french term a suspicion is most appreciated2 it should only be a suspicion1 its presence should never be pronounced4 ,as ,blot once begged his readers1 ,give garlic a fair trial in a rmolade sauce4 7,montpellier butter beaten into mayonnaise is a good rmolade for cold meat or fish47 ,curry is one of those things against which many are strongly prejudiced1 and ,i am inclined to think it is quite an acquired taste1 but a taste which is an enviable one to its possessors2 for them there is endless variety in all they eat4 ,the capabilities of curry are very little known in this country1 and1 as the taste for it is so limited1 ,i will not do more in its defense than indicate a pleasant use to which it may be put1 and in which form it would be a welcome condiment to many to whom a curry1 pure and simple1 would be obnoxious4 ,i once knew an ,anglo-,indian who used curry as most people use cayenne2 it was put in a pepper-box1 and with it he would at times pepper his fish or kidneys1 even his eggs4 ,used in this way1 it imparts a delightful piquancy to food1 and is neither hot nor spicy4 ,few people are so prejudiced as the ,english generally1 and the stay-at-home ,americans2 but the latter are to be taught by travel1 the ,englishman rarely4 ,the average ,briton leaves his island shores with the conviction that he will get nothing fit to eat till he gets back1 and that he will have to be uncommonly careful once across the channel1 or he will be having fricasseed frogs palmed on him for chicken4 ,poor man6 in his horror of frogs1 he does not know that the ,paris restaurateur who should give the costly frog for chicken1 would soon end in the bankruptcy court4 ,if ,i could only get a decent dinner1 a good roast and plain potato1 ,i would like ,paris much better1 said an old ,englishman to me once in that gay city4 ,but surely you can4 ,no2 ,i have been to restaurants of every class1 and called for beefsteak and roast beef1 but have never got the real article1 although it's my belief1 said he1 leaning forward solemnly1 that ,i have eaten horse three times this week4 ,of course the ,englishman of rank1 who has spent half his life on the continent1 is not at all the average ,englishman4 ,americans think the hare and rabbits1 of which the ,english make such good use1 very mean food indeed1 and if they are unprejudiced enough to try them1 from the fact that they are never well cooked1 they dislike them1 which prejudice the ,english reciprocate by looking on squirrels as being as little fit for food as a rat4 ,and a familiar instance of prejudice from ignorance carried even to insanity1 is that of the ,irish in #ahdh1 starving rather than eat the yaller male1 sent them by generous ,american sympathizers2 yet they come here and soon get over that dislike4 ,not so the ,french1 who look on oatmeal and ,indian meal as most unwholesome food4 a pse sur l'estomac1 a creuse l'estomac1 ,i heard an old ,frenchwoman say1 trying to dissuade a mother from giving her children mush4 ,the moral of all of which is1 that for our comfort's sake1 and the general good we should avoid unreasonable prejudices against unfamiliar food4 ,we of course have a right to our honest dislikes2 but to condemn things because we have heard them despised1 is prejudice4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,a ,,chapter ,,of ,,odds ,,and ,,ends--,,valedictory4 ,i ,,have alluded1 in an earlier chapter1 to the fact that many inexperienced cooks are afraid of altering recipes2 a few words on this subject may not be out of place4 ,as a rule1 a recipe should be faithfully followed in all important points2 for instance1 in making soup you cannot because you are short of the given quantity of meat1 put the same amount of water as directed for the full quantity1 without damaging your soup2 but you may easily reduce water and every other ingredient in the same proportion2 and1 in mere matters of flavoring1 you may vary to suit circumstances4 ,if you are told to use cloves1 and have none1 a bit of mace may be substituted4 ,if you read a recipe1 and it calls for something you have not1 consider whether that something has anything to do with the substance of the dish1 or whether it is merely an accessory for which something else can be substituted4 ,for instance1 if you are ordered to use cream in a sauce1 milk with a larger amount of well-washed butter may take its place2 but if you are told to use cream for charlotte russe or trifles1 there is no way in which you could make milk serve1 since it is not an accessory but the chief part of those dishes4 ,for a cake in which cream is used1 butter whipped to a cream may take its place4 ,wine is usually optional in savory dishes2 it gives richness only4 ,again1 in cakes be very careful the exact proportions of flour1 eggs1 and milk are observed2 of butter you can generally use more or less1 having a more or less rich cake in proportion4 ,in any but plain cup cakes 7which greatly depend on soda and acid for their lightness7 never lessen the allowance of eggs2 never add milk if a cake is too stiff 7but an extra egg may always be used71 unless milk is ordered in the recipe1 when more or less may be used as needed4 ,flavoring may be always varied4 ,in reducing a recipe always reduce every ingredient1 and it can make no difference in the results4 ,sometimes1 in cookery books1 you are told to use articles not frequently found in ordinary kitchens2 for instance1 a larding-needle 7although that can be bought for twenty-five cents at any house-furnishing store1 and should always be in a kitchen72 but1 in case you have not one for meat1 you may manage by making small cuts and inserting slips of bacon4 ,another article that is very useful1 but seldom1 if ever1 to be found in small kitchens1 is a salamander2 but when you wish to brown the top of a dish1 and putting it in the oven would not do1 or the oven is not quick enough to serve1 an iron shovel1 made nearly red1 and a few red cinders in it1 is a very good salamander4 ,it must be held over the article that requires browning near enough to color it1 yet not to burn4 ,in the recipes ,i have given nothing is required that cannot be obtained1 with more or less ease1 in ,new ,york4 ,for syrups1 fruit juices1 etc41 apply to your druggist2 if he has not them he will tell you where to obtain them4 ,we often make up our minds that because a thing is not commonly used in this country1 it is impossible to get it4 ,really there are very few things not to be got in ,new ,york ,city to the intelligent seeker4 ,you need an article of ,french or ,italian or may be ,english grocery1 that your grocer1 a first-class one1 perhaps1 has not1 and you make up your mind you cannot get it4 ,but go into the quarters where ,french people live1 and you can get everything belonging to the ,french cuisine4 ,so prejudiced are the ,french in favor of the productions of la belle ,france1 that they do not believe in our parsley or our chives or garlic or shallots2 for ,i know at least one ,french grocer who imports them for his customers4 ,on being asked why he brought them from ,france to a country where those very things were plentiful1 he answered3 ,oh1 ,french herbs are much finer4 ,needless to say tarragon is one of the herbs so imported1 and can thus be bought2 but1 as several ,new ,jersey truck gardeners grow all kinds of ,french herbs1 they can be got in ,washington ,market1 and most druggists keep them dried2 but for salads1 ,montpellier butter1 and some other uses1 the dried herb would not do1 although for flavoring it would serve2 but the far better way is to grow them for yourself1 as ,i have done4 ,any large seedsman will supply you with burnet1 tarragon1 and borage 7very useful for salads1 punch1 etc47 seeds1 and if you live in the country1 have an herb bed2 if in town1 there are few houses where there is not ground enough to serve for the purpose2 but even in these few houses one can have a box of earth in the kitchen window1 in which your seeds will flourish4 ,parsley is a thing in almost daily request in winter1 yet it is very expensive to buy it constantly for the sake of using the small spray that often suffices4 ,it is a good plan1 therefore1 in fall1 to get a few roots1 plant them in a pot or box1 and they will flourish all winter1 if kept where they will not freeze1 and be ready for garnishing at any minute4 ,always1 as far as your means allow1 have every convenience for cooking4 ,by having utensils proper for every purpose you save a great deal of work and much vexation of spirit4 ,yet it should be no excuse for bad work that such utensils are not at hand4 ,a willing and intelligent cook will make the best of what she has4 ,apropos of this very thing ,gouff relates that a friend of his1 an artist of renown1 was sent for to the chateau of a ,baron ,argenteuil1 who had taken a large company with him1 unexpectedly crowding the chateau in every part4 ,he was shown into a dark passage in which a plank was suspended from the ceiling1 and told this was to be his kitchen4 ,he had to fashion his own utensils1 for there was nothing provided1 and his pastry he had to bake in a frying-pan--besides building two monumental plts on that board--and prepare a cold entre4 ,but he cheerfully set to work to overcome difficulties1 achieved his task1 and was rewarded by the plaudits of the diners4 ,such difficulties as these our servants never have to encounter1 and a cheerful endeavor to make the best of everything should be the rule4 ,yet1 let us spare them all the labor we can1 or rather make it as easy and pleasant as possible2 they will be more proud of their well-furnished kitchen1 more cheerful in it1 than they will of one where everything for their convenience is grudged1 and such pride and cheerfulness will be your gain4 ,there is always a great deal of talk about servants in ,america1 how bad and inefficient they are1 how badly they contrast with those of ,england4 ,certainly1 they are not so efficient as those of the older country2 how could they be8 ,there1 girls who are intended for servants have ever held before their eyes what they may or may not do in the future calling1 and how it is to be done4 ,but take one of these orderly1 efficient girls1 put her in an ,american family as general servant or as cook1 where two are kept1 washing and ironing to do1 and a variety of other work1 and see how your ,english servant would stare at your requirements4 ,she has been accustomed to her own line of work at home2 if housemaid1 she has been dressed for the day at noon2 if cook1 she has never done even her own washing4 ,she may1 and will no doubt1 fall into the way of the country1 after a while1 and on account of her early habits of respect1 will make a good servant perhaps4 ,but many of them would be quite indignant at being asked to do the average servant's work here4 ,i am speaking now of the trained servants2 but1 comparing the ,london maid-of-all-work or slavey with our own general servants1 and considering how much more is expected of the latter1 the comparison seems to me vastly in the favor of our own ,bridgets4 ,we may rest assured1 however smoothly the wheels of household management glide along in wealthy families across the water1 people who can only keep one or two have all our troubles with servants and a few added1 and their faults are just as general a subject of conversation among ladies4 ,france 7out of ,paris1 from ,parisian servants deliver me67 and ,germany seem the favored lands where one servant does the work of three or four4 ,yet even they1 are1 they say1 degenerating4 ,let us1 then1 be contented and make the best of what we have1 assured that even ,biddy is not so hopeless as she is painted4 ,kindness 7not weakness71 firmness1 and patience work wonders1 even with the roughest ,emerald that ever crossed the sea4 ,i have said somewhere else that you must beware of attempting too much at once2 perfect yourself in one thing before you attempt another4 ,take breaded chops or fried oysters1 make opportunities for having them rather often1 and do not rest satisfied until you have them as well fried as you have ever seen them anywhere2 practice makes perfect1 and you certainly will achieve perfection if you are not discouraged by one failure4 ,but above all things never make experiments for company2 let them be made when it really matters little whether you succeed or not1 and let your experiments be on a small scale2 don't attempt to fry a large dish of oysters or chops until it is a very easy task1 or make more than half a pound of puff paste at first2 for if you fail with a large task before you1 you will be tired and disheartened1 hate the sight of what you are doing1 and1 as a consequence1 not be likely to return to it very soon4 ,the same may be said of cooks2 some of them are very fond of experiments1 which taste ,i should always encourage2 but do not let them jump from one experiment to the other2 if they try a dish and fail1 they often make up their minds that the fault is not theirs1 that it is not worth while to bother with it4 ,here your knowledge will be of service2 you will show them that it can be done1 how it should be done1 and order the dish cook failed in1 frequently1 giving it sufficient surveillance to prevent your family suffering from her inexperience2 for1 as a witty ,frenchman said of ,mme4 du ,deffaud's cook1 ,between her and ,brinvilliers there is only the difference of intention4 ,few things add more to a man or woman's social reputation than the fact that they keep a good table4 ,it need not be one where ,the strong table groans ,beneath the smoking sirloin stretched immense2 but a table where whatever you do have will be good1 be it pork and beans1 or salmi2 the pork and beans would satisfy a ,bostonian1 the salmi ,grimod de la ,reynire himself4 ,i do not admit with ,di ,walcott that ,the turnpike road to people's hearts ,i find ,lies through their mouths1 or ,i mistake mankind4 ,but it is a fact that good living--by this ,i do not mean extravagant living--presupposes good breeding4 ,well-bred people sometimes live badly2 but ill-bred people seldom or ever live well1 in the right sense of the term4 ,now1 by way of valedictory1 let me repeat that ,i do not think a lady's best or proper place is the kitchen2 but it is quite possible to have a perfectly served table1 yet spend very little time there4 ,only that one little hour a day that ,talleyrand1 the busy man full of intrigue and statecraft1 found time to spend with his cook1 would insure your table being well served4 ,for1 after devoting say a few winter months to perfecting yourself in a few things1 you will be able to teach your cook1 who is often ambitious to excel if put in the right way4 ,a word here about cooks4 ,the knowledge that if they fail to do a thing well you will do it yourself1 will often put them on their mettle to do their best2 while the feeling that you don't know1 will make them careless4 ,servants have a great deal more amour propre than people imagine2 therefore1 stimulate it by judicious praise and appreciation2 let them think that to send in a dish perfect1 is a glory to themselves as well as a pleasure to you4 ,while careful to remark when alone with them upon any fault that results from carelessness1 be equally careful to give all the praise you can1 and repeat to them complimentary remarks that may have been made on their skill4 ,servants are usually--such is the weakness of feminine nature1 whether in the drawing-room or the kitchen--very sensitive to the praise or blame of the gentlemen of the family4 ,indulge poor humanity a little when you honestly can4 ,,index ,,page ,almond creams1 #ic ,altering recipes1 #aaa1 #aab ,asparagus1 to boil1 #ff ,baba1 #hf ,small1 #hg ,syrup for1 #hg ,batter for frying la ,carme1 #ei ,provenale1 #fj ,beef1 ,boeuf la jardinire1 #gd au ,gratin1 #ge ,filet de boeuf ,chateaubriand1 #di ,fritadella1 #ha ,little breakfast dish of1 #gh ,miroton of1 #gf ,olives of1 #gi ,pseudo-beefsteak1 #ge ,ragout of cold1 #gh ,salmi of cold1 #gc ,simplest way to warm a joint1 #gg ,to warm over a large piece1 #gh ,sirloin1 to make two dishes1 #di ,biscuit glac1 la ,charles ,dickens1 #he ,thackeray1 #he ,blanc for white sauce1 #ca ,boiling1 asparagus1 #ff ,cabbage1 #fe ,potatoes1 #ff ,peas1 #fe ,rules for meat1 #fe ,bouches de dames1 #hh ,to ice1 #hi ,bread1 #ab ,baking1 #ad ,cause of failure1 #ae of thick crust1 #ad ,compressed yeast1 #ae ,kneading1 #ad ,oven heating1 #ad ,remarks1 #ab ,rules of time for rising1 #ad ,to set sponge1 #ac ,bread-crumbs for frying1 #ef ,bread dough1 to keep a day or two1 #ajf for pie crust1 #ig ,souffle1 #bj ,brioche1 #ah ,jockey ,club1 recipe for1 #ai for summer pastry1 #ai1 #bj ,broiling1 #fj ,chickens and birds1 #fa ,brown flour1 #cd ,sauce1 #ga ,butter1 matre d'htel1 #cb ,montpellier1 #cc ,ravigotte1 #cc ,cabbage1 to boil1 #fe ,cakes1 ,baba1 #hf ,bouches de dames1 #hc ,savarins1 #hh ,candies1 #ib ,chocolate creams1 #id ,cream almonds1 #ic ,cream walnuts1 #ic ,fondant1 #ib ,fondant panach1 #ic ,punch drops1 #id ,simple ,french1 #ib ,tutti frutti1 #ib ,vanilla almond cream1 #ib ,walnut cream1 #ib ,celeraic1 or turnip-rooted celery1 #ed ,celery seed for soup1 #ajf ,celery cream soup1 #fh ,chateaubriand1 filet de boeuf1 #di ,chicken1 #dh ,broiling1 #fj ,cold1 #di ,pie1 #ch ,potted1 #dd ,roasting1 #dh ,use of the feet1 #dh ,clinkered fire-bricks1 #ajg ,cold meat salmi1 #gc ,various ways of warming1 #gb-ha ,coloring for candy and icing1 #ie ,company to lunch1 and nothing in the house1 #dd ,cromesquis of cold lamb1 #ge ,crumbs for frying1 #ef ,cucumber and onion ragout1 #ajb ,curaoa1 to make1 #hi ,curry1 #ajh ,deviled meats1 #hj ,dishes made without meat1 #ajb ,dripping1 to clarify1 #ei ,feuilletonage1 #bc ,fire-bricks1 to remove clinkers from1 #ajg ,to mend1 #ajg ,flavoring1 #gj ,flounders1 to bone1 #ef ,as filet de sole1 #ef ,forequarter of mutton1 #aja ,frangipane tartlets1 #bf ,french herbs1 #aac ,friandises1 #hd ,fritadella of cold meat1 twenty recipes in one1 #ha ,frying1 #ee ,batter la ,carme1 #ei ,provenale1 #fj ,crumbing1 #ef ,filet de sole1 #ef ,flounders1 #ef ,oil for1 #eh ,oysters1 #eg ,remarks on1 #ee ,to clarify dripping for1 #ei ,to test the heat of fat for1 #eg ,galantine1 #ci ,garlic1 #ajh ,glaze1 #cj ,to glaze ham1 tongue1 etc41 #cb ,gouff's pot-au-feu1 #fh ,rules for ovens1 #bg ,gravy1 #bi-fc ,grating nutmegs1 #aje ,ham1 to boil1 #fe ,to glaze1 #cb ,to pot1 #dc ,hash1 #ig ,heart1 beef1 #ajj ,sheep's1 #ii ,iced souffle1 #he ,a la ,byron1 #hd ,icing1 #hi ,ink1 to remove from carpets1 #ajg ,jellied fish or oysters1 #da ,jelly for cold chicken1 #dg ,jelly from pork1 #ca ,kerosene lamps1 #ajg ,keeping meat1 #ajf ,poultry1 #ajg ,dough1 #ajf ,kitchen conveniences1 #aad ,kreuznach horns1 #af ,kringles1 #ag ,lamb1 cromesquis of1 #ge ,lamps1 #ajg ,larding needle1 #aab ,leg of mutton1 #eb ,a la ,soubise1 #eb ,boiled1 #eb ,lemons1 to keep1 #aje ,peels1 #ajf ,little dinners1 #ej ,liver1 sheep's1 #ih ,luncheons1 #ce ,matre d'htel butter1 #cb ,management in small families1 #dg ,maraschino1 to make1 #ij ,marrow from soup bone1 #ih ,mayonnaise1 new1 #db ,meat1 to keep1 #ajf ,salad1 #eb ,mephistophelian sauce1 #ha ,miroton of beef1 #gf ,montpellier butter1 #cc ,mushroom powder1 #bi ,mutton broth1 #eb ,forequarter1 #aja ,leg1 #eb ,neck of mutton1 #aja ,noyeau1 #ij ,nutmegs1 best way to grate1 #aje ,omelet1 new1 #de ,onion soup1 maigre1 #ajc ,ornamenting meat pies1 #cg ,ovens1 #ad ,gouff's rules for heating1 #bg ,oysters1 to fry1 #eg ,in jelly1 #da ,ox cheek1 #ajj ,panach fondant1 #ic ,parsley seed for soup1 #ajf ,parsley in winter1 #aac ,paste1 puff1 #bb ,to handle1 #bd ,pastry tablets1 #bf ,pte la ,carme for frying1 #ei ,provenale1 #fj ,peas1 to boil1 #ff ,pease soup1 maigre1 #ajc ,pie1 bread dough for crust1 #ig ,chicken1 to eat cold1 #ch ,fruit1 #bd ,english raised1 #ch ,to raise a1 #ci ,veal and ham1 #ch ,windsor1 #cf ,pork for jelly1 #ca ,potato salad1 #ed ,snow1 #de ,soup1 maigre1 #ajc ,to warm over1 #df ,pot-au-feu1 #fh ,pot roasts1 #ii ,potted meats1 #dc ,punch drops1 #id ,ragout of cold meat1 #gh ,of cucumber and onion1 #ajb ,ravigotte1 #cc ,remarks1 preliminary1 #a-ab ,on boiling1 #fe ,on bread-making1 #ab ,on frying1 #ed ,on kitchen and servants1 #aad ,on little dinners1 #ej ,on luncheons1 #ce ,on maigre dishes1 #ajd ,on management in small families1 #dg ,on sauces and flavoring1 #gj ,remarks on soups1 #fg ,on table prejudices1 #ajh ,on true economy in buying meat1 #ii ,on roasting1 #fb ,rissolettes1 #be ,rolls1 #ae ,roux1 #cd ,rusks1 #af ,salad1 ,celeraic1 #ed ,potato1 #ed ,cold meat1 #eb ,salamander1 substitute for1 #aab ,sauces1 #gj ,flavoring1 #gj ,brown or espagnole1 #ga ,mephistophelian1 #ha ,white1 #ga ,mayonnaise1 #db ,savarin 7cake71 #hh ,souffle bread1 #bj ,iced1 #he ,a la ,byron1 #hd ,soup bone1 #if ,soup1 celery cream1 #fh ,consomm1 #fh ,pot-au-feu1 #fh ,onion1 #ajc ,pease1 #ajc ,potato1 #ajc ,to color1 #fg ,to clear stock1 #ff ,sugar boiling for candy1 #ia ,tainted meat1 to restore1 #ajg ,to make strong vegetables milder1 #ajf ,tutti frutti candy1 #ib ,vanilla almond cream1 #ib ,veal1 #ec ,warming over1 #gb ,what to do with scraps1 #de ,where to buy articles not in general use1 #aab ,why meat does not brown in cooking1 #fb ,windsor pie1 #cf