,transcriber's ,note3 ,every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as possible1 including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation2 changes 7corrections of spelling and punctuation7 made to the original text are listed at the end of this file4 ,,twenty-,,four ,,little ,,french ,,dinners ,,and ,how to ,cook and ,serve ,them ,,by ,,cora ,,moore ,,new ,,york ,e4 ,p4 ,,dutton ,,company #fha ,fifth ,avenue ,copyright #aiai1 by ,e4 ,p4 ,,dutton ,,company ,all ,rights ,reserved ,printed in the ,united ,states of ,america ,,preface ,the ,little ,dinners of ,paris are world-famous4 ,no one can have sojourned in the fascinating capital in its normal days without having come under their spell4 ,to ,parisien and visitor alike they are accounted among the uniquely characteristic features of the city's routine life4 ,much of the interest that attaches to them is1 of course1 due to local atmosphere1 to the associations that surround the quaint restaurants1 half hidden in unexpected nooks and by-ways1 to the fact that old ,jacques waits in his shirtsleeves or that ,grosse ,marie serves you with a smile as expansive as her own proportions1 or that it is ,justin or ,franois or ,old ,monsoor1 with his eternal grouch1 who glides about the zinc counter4 ,but there is also magic in the arrangement of the menus1 in the combinations of food1 in the very names of the confections and in the little ,gallic touches that1 simple though they are1 transform commonplace dishes into gastronomic delights4 ,there is inspiration in the art that enters into the production of a ,french dinner1 in the perfect balance of every item from hors d'uvre to caf noir1 in the ways with seasoning that work miracles with left-overs and preserve the daily routine of three meals a day from the deadly monotony of the ,american rgime1 in the garnishings that glorify the most insignificant concoctions into objects of appetising beauty and in the sauces that elevate indifferent dishes into the realm of creations and enable a ,french cook to turn out a dinner fit for capricious young gods from what an ,american cook wastes in preparing one4 ,the very economy of the ,french is an art1 and there is art in their economy4 ,it is true that their dishes1 as we have known them in this country1 are expensive1 even extravagant1 but that is because they have been for the most part the creations of high-priced chefs4 ,they who have made eating an avocation know that it is not necessary to dine expensively in order to dine well4 ,c4 ,m4 ,new ,york1 ,may1 #aiai4 ,,contents ,,page ,preface v ,the ,bugbear of ,american ,cookery--,monotony #a ,flavor--,handmaid of ,variety #i ,true ,trails toward ,economy #ae ,the ,appeal to the ,eye #ba ,sauces1 ,simple and ,otherwise #be ,twenty-four ,little ,french ,dinners #cc 7,with ,directions for ,preparing7 ,let ,us ,eat ,fish6 #aji ,,twenty-,,four ,,little ,,french ,,dinners ,,and ,how to ,cook and ,serve ,them ,,the ,,bugbear ,,of ,,american ,,cookery--,,monotony ,it is as strange as it is true that with the supplies that have lately proved sufficient to feed a world to draw upon the chief trouble with ,american cookery is its monotony4 ,the ,american cook has a wider variety of foods at his command than any other in the world1 yet in the average home how rarely is it that the palate is surprised with a flavor that didn't have its turn on the corresponding day last week or tickled with a sauce that is in itself an inspiration and a delight1 not a mere gravy1 liable to harden into lumps of grease when it cools4 ,most of this is simply the result of blindly following tradition4 ,daughter has accepted mother's precepts1 regarding them even as the law of the ,medes and the ,persians1 which altereth not1 and if it were not that increased prices and1 lately1 at least1 food regulations1 have veritably compelled her toward a more wholesome simplicity1 the ,united ,states would probably be what it was called half a generation ago1 a nation of dyspeptics4 ,and we were a nation of dyspeptics because the great ,american mother of the latter end of the ,nineteenth ,century1 in spite of all her unequaled qualities in every other direction1 and in spite of all the encomiums she received in resounding prose or ecstatic verse for her prowess in the kitchen1 was from the points of view of health1 economy and wisdom the worst cook in the world4 ,with prices as they are the ,american housewife cannot afford to use butter and eggs and flour with the prodigality that was a habit with her mother1 but so limited is the average woman's knowledge of cookery that these restrictions merely mean more monotony than ever4 ,it is partly to demonstrate that this state of things is unnecessary and that true food economy is not at all synonymous with going without that this book has been compiled4 ,it is upon variety that the ,french cook confidently relies to make each dish of each meal not just something to eat because her family must have food1 not merely a sop to the ,cerberus-gnawings of hunger1 but a delight to the eye1 to the palate1 to the stomach--truly a consummation devoutly to be wished for the ,american home table1 and just as possible to attain as it is possible to procure from the grocer or the nearest pharmacist the ingredients by which these wonders are wrought4 ,but the average ,american woman doesn't look beyond her own kitchen and her own traditional row of spice boxes for her flavorings4 ,she has her kitchen set1 which ordinarily comprises a row of little receptacles labeled pepper1 salt1 cloves1 allspice1 ginger1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 and possibly one or two other spices or condiments--rarely more4 ,with these and a bottle each of lemon extract and vanilla1 she is satisfied that she is fully equipped as far as flavoring possibilities are concerned4 ,if she has laid in a box of sage and one of mixed dressing with1 perhaps1 some paprika and thyme1 she views her foresightedness with much complacency4 ,she is supplied with savories4 ,then she goes right on sighing1 ,oh1 for a new meat1 instead of the same old round of mutton1 pork1 beef and fish2 fish1 beef1 mutton and pork1 disclaiming utterly any responsibility for the monotony that is undermining the family health and temper and1 quite possibly1 its morals4 ,that is where the ,american housewife makes her primary and most important mistake4 ,the ,french1 on the other hand1 know that there are1 literally1 hundreds of ways to vary every dish1 however ordinary it may be in its primary state4 ,that is their secret of success3 unfailing variety coupled with economy4 ,however1 this is not to claim that the ,american palate would take kindly to all the ,french cooks' little delicacies1 or that it could be cultivated to that degree that makes a ,frenchman regard a perfectly balanced meal even as an inspired poem4 ,probably ,americans1 as a class1 could never be induced to eat some of the little birds--the mauviettes1 the alouettes1 the sparrows baked in a pie1 that so delight the ,frenchman4 ,also1 it is a question whether snails1 even if it were possible to obtain the superior ,burgundian1 fat and juicy and cooked even as our own ,oscar used to prepare them for certain ,waldorf guests1 would ever appeal to the ,american taste1 as even the common hedgerow sort of snail does to the average ,frenchman4 ,it is not that the ,french dinners of ,monte ,carlo are necessarily so superior to ,american shore dinners1 or that the little dinners of ,paris are so infinitely to be preferred to those1 say1 of certain places in ,new ,orleans1 or that the coppery-tasting oysters of ,havre are to be compared with those of our own ,baltimore4 ,there is no more to be said1 probably1 for the woodcock pats of old ,montreuil1 or the rillettes of ,tours1 or the little pots of custard one gets at the foreign ,montpelier1 or the vol-au-vent1 which is the pride and boast of the cities of ,provence1 than there is for grandmother's cookies such as have put ,camden1 ,maine1 on the map1 or ,lady ,baltimore cakes1 or the chicken pies one goes to northern ,new ,hampshire to find in their glory1 or the turkeys that1 as much as the ,green ,mountains1 make ,vermont's fame4 ,still1 there is no question but that the ,american palate would benefit much by being cultivated1 not only in the interests of economy1 but also with a view to the increase of gastronomic pleasure1 for a taste attuned to many variations is as an ear sensitive to the nuances of sweet sounds or an eye trained to perceive delicate tones and tints4 ,it is really a matter for regret that we1 as a people1 have not been as willing to learn from the ,french the art of cooking and eating as we have been to acquire from them knowledge of the art of dress4 ,until we widen our horizon sufficiently to do this1 we have not even begun to develop all our food resources or to understand the first principles of true food economy--which is not at all synonymous with going without4 ,,flavor1 ,,handmaid ,,of ,,variety ,it is because he has a multitude of seasonings at his command and knows how to use them that the ,french cook is enabled not only to send to the table an infinite variety of dishes1 but1 at the same time1 to practice economies that were otherwise impossible4 ,the ,american buys an expensive cut of meat and1 as is right in such a case1 treats it as plainly and simply as possible4 ,the ,frenchman buys meat of a much lower quality1 but so embellishes it that when it comes to the table it is superior1 or1 at least1 equal to that which costs much more4 ,it may be objected that this is no real economy1 because by the time the ,french cook has sauced and spiced his cheap cut in order to make it palatable1 the cost is as great1 if not greater than it would have been had he paid more for his meat in the first place4 ,this would be true enough according to the average ,american's method of procedure4 ,but it is to be remembered that the ,french cook has already in his kitchen the cooking vinegars1 the spices1 the dried herbs1 the extracts1 that in very small amounts--a dash or a few leaves--are used at a time2 also1 that in a great number of cases1 gravies and sauces are made from the by-products of the main dishes--those by-products that in the ,american kitchen usually go down the sink-drain or into the garbage pail4 ,take a peep into the typical ,french cupboard4 ,there you will find from twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings such as anchovy extract1 tobasco sauce1 meat extracts1 mushroom catsup1 tomato paste1 chutney1 various vinegars1 ,worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a tang and a zest even to the most unpromising dish1 if used aright4 ,there you will find1 too1 fifty or more dry seasonings1 including anise1 basil1 saffron1 savoury1 clove or garlic1 cassia buds1 bay leaf1 ginger root1 pepper-corns1 marjoram1 mint1 thyme1 capers and so on4 ,herein lie the secrets of ,french cookery which are1 in truth1 not secrets at all1 but merely the application of common sense to the cuisine4 ,the ,french have never allowed their taste to be restricted by prejudice1 so they hail a new flavor with delight rather than registering an instinctive dislike because it is not familiar4 ,with a little applied education1 ,americans can bring the charm of the ,french table to their own homes rather than when they are1 as they say1 tired of the same old round of eats1 seeking out a nondescript table d'hte restaurant and eagerly consuming what is set before them1 grateful for a change4 ,but don't harden your heart against ,french cookery merely because you have sampled it1 as you fondly think1 at one or another of the red-inkeries of ,new ,york or any other city4 ,for the most part the ,french restaurants of the land are in reality not ,french at all1 but ,italian for the most part1 and whatever ,gallic flavor the remainder ever possessed has well-nigh vanished4 ,there may be exceptions but1 if there are1 their patrons carefully guard the secret4 ,but to return to our subject3 ,it is the ,french cook's knowledge of the subtleties1 the nuances of seasoning that stands him in good stead4 ,the ,american woman who has essayed to use some spice or savory unfamiliar to her and has turned out a dish which her family has declared tasted like medicine is1 naturally enough1 discouraged from wandering after that particular strange god again4 ,the truth is that she has overdone the seasoning4 ,she doesn't want to be parsimonious1 which is just what the ,french cook is with his flavors1 only he1 more scientifically1 calls it using good judgment4 ,if he uses garlic in a salad1 it doesn't necessarily follow that the entire household must take on the atmosphere of an ,italian barber shop1 for he uses garlic or onion1 not to give their flavor to a dish1 but to bring out the flavors of the vegetables with which they are used4 ,vanilla and lemon have an almost universal appeal to the palate1 and knowing this1 the ,american cook1 like the generation before her1 has always seasoned her rice puddings1 for instance1 with one or the other1 just as her apple sauce has invariably been flavored with lemon or nutmeg1 her bread pudding with vanilla1 and so all along her restricted line4 ,the ,french cook holds no brief against vanilla1 and sometimes he flavors his rice pudding with it1 but he so guides matters that the very sight or mention of rice pudding does not bring the thought of vanilla to the mind1 for with him it may be flavored with pistache or rose or have a geranium leaf baked in it1 giving a delightful1 indescribable flavor4 ,an ordinary bread pudding becomes veritably a queen of puddings as1 indeed1 it is called1 merely by having a layer of jam through its center and a simple icing spread over the top4 ,ordinary pea soup exhibits chameleon-like possibilities merely through the addition of a little celery-root1 a dash of curry or the admixture of a few spoonfuls of minced spinach1 and tomato soup has for most an appeal that even this favorite of soups never had before when just the right amount of thyme is added while it simmers1 along with1 perhaps a bayleaf4 ,in the recipes appended to the little dinners in this book a great many of the ,french cooks' materials and methods of procedure are set forth4 ,but if the ordinarily experimental ,american housewife has the flavorings on hand1 she will doubtless herself contrive many an alluring dish of her own4 ,variety is said to be the spice of life4 ,however that may be1 the spices and their friends1 the herbs1 certainly make for variety in that important function of life1 the dinner table4 ,,true ,,trails ,,toward ,,economy ,in the first place1 no trail toward economy in conducting the cuisine of a household lies through the delicatessen store or the fancy grocery4 ,it is an unflattering comment on the spirit of thrift of ,american housewives that the delicatessen store has settled down to such a flourishing existence1 particularly in ,eastern cities4 ,any woman who possesses a stove and a kitchen of her own should be ashamed to admit the laziness that more than a semi-occasional visit to these delicate eating places predicates4 ,there are few things to be had in them that she shouldn't be able to make better at home and at a cost that is but a fraction of what she has to pay for the usually inferior1 impersonal messes that come ready-made4 ,if the housewife has read some of the very excellent instructions that were printed to help her conduct her household adequately amid the necessary limitations of wartime1 she already knows that there is absolutely no excuse for ever throwing away a crust or crumb of bread4 ,as for that1 neither is there any excuse for ever disposing of what is left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made dish1 or of consigning meat scraps or bits of fat or even bones to the garbage pail4 ,it is not only that1 in the interests of economy1 she should use them2 it is rather that if she is a good cook she will be very glad to have them to use4 ,stale bread and breadcrumbs are the bases of a score of the most delicious puddings on the ,french cook's card2 cooked cereal is one of the best thickenings for soups and gravies1 as well as being far more wholesome than flour for this purpose2 meat scraps1 trimmings and bones should go into the stock pot4 ,when a soup made of these is served as the introductory course at dinner it will be found that the family will be fully satisfied with much less meat1 and it is in the lessening dependence of ,americans on meat that will make for the greatest item in economy4 ,a ,french cook of parts would tear his hair if he could see how fats and drippings from meats are thrown away in many an ,american kitchen4 ,they are poured into the sink till the drain pipes clog and1 to complete the little serial of extravagance1 the plumber has to be called4 ,the ,french cook knows that this is the finest grease for frying in the world and that its use would save many a pound of butter4 ,he strains it all carefully and keeps the different sorts in labelled jars or crocks4 ,he knows by experience what particular fats give the best flavors to certain things1 and he knows that vegetables1 fish1 eggs1 pancakes and what not are far better fried in these natural fats4 ,who that ever ate an egg fried in bacon drippings will ever want one cooked in butter1 even at a dollar a pound6 ,one will not find the delicatessen flourishing in ,france--one will not find it at all--and the fancy grocery1 above mentioned1 is another pitfall for the ,american housewife4 ,she likes the sight of food done up in fancy containers1 in glass1 perhaps1 and buys them1 not realizing that she is paying a large price for perfectly unnecessary and totally unnourishing pretties4 ,if she is fearful of the handling some loose food stuffs may be subjected to in the stores1 why does she not practice the most practical economy1 go to the fountain-head of supplies in the city1 the large market1 and buy in quantity1 so far as she can8 ,a few ounces of bacon1 already sliced1 and sealed in a glass dish are1 indeed1 appetising even in their raw state1 while a side of bacon is not1 unless looked upon through the eyes of imagination1 yet the latter method of purchasing this commodity is two or three hundred per cent cheaper1 and when it arrives at the breakfast table it will be found every bit as appealing to a happy morning appetite4 ,any consideration of economy in the cuisine must include the meat problem4 ,meat is the most expensive item on the menu and the true solution of the question is not only to conserve all the uses of it but to eat much less4 ,that would make not only for economy1 but for better health as well4 ,it has been estimated that #ahf pounds of dressed meat is--or was prior to the war--the yearly average of consumption for every ,american2 the ,englishman being a good second with his #abj pounds1 while the ,frenchman remained perfectly contented and healthy with #gi pounds1 the ,italian with #gb pounds1 and the ,swiss1 anything but a nation of invalids1 managed very well on #fj pounds per person4 ,this is no plea for vegetarianism1 though it may be said in passing for the benefit of those who think that good red blood and hardy muscle are to be obtained only by absorbing the red blood and muscle of the beasts of the field1 that there is as much1 if not more1 of this building power in the beans1 the peas1 the lentils that we regard too often as mere secondary foods4 ,most of all the ,american should take advantage of the great stores of fish which are equally as nourishing as meat and may easily be made as appetising with simple sauces that ,french cookery will teach us4 ,fish are cheap2 at least1 many neglected kinds are2 they are easy to cook and they are one of the best foods in the world4 ,,the ,,appeal ,,to ,,the ,,eye ,no one1 least of all the ,french cook1 calculates to feast the eye at the expense of the sense of taste1 yet it is his experience after long years that good digestion is much more likely to wait upon the appetite that has been stirred to a preliminary enthusiasm by the attractive appearance of a dish4 ,so they serve little fritters of vegetables1 dabs of jelly1 slices of hard boiled eggs1 pickles1 parsley1 cress and nasturtiums with meats1 put sprigs of fresh green in their gravies1 decorate desserts with nut-meats1 flowers and fruits1 and in so doing add a bit to the gayety of the table1 satisfied that the trifling extra expense1 time and energy incurred is more than compensated for in the pleasure the results afford4 ,a fair trial of this pleasant idiosyncrasy of the ,french is convincing that the appearance of a dish has more bearing on the relish of a meal than we over here have fully realized4 ,they are particular1 however1 to be consistent in the use of garnishings4 ,flowers and fruits are reserved for sweet dishes1 except in the case of nasturtiums1 which they regard as much a vegetable as a flower and use freely with meats4 ,a stew or a creamed dish is merely a more or less indifferent something to eat when it is dished up any old way and set upon the table4 ,but if it is heaped daintily on a pretty platter1 surrounded by a ring of brown mashed potato1 its sides decorated by dainty shapes of toasted bread1 perhaps buttered and sprinkled with minced parsley1 it has become something to awaken the slumbering or indifferent appetite and at practically no extra expense of time or money4 ,if the yolks of two hard boiled eggs are minced and mixed with part of the raw white of one1 the paste then formed into balls like marbles and dropped into boiling water1 one has little yellow spheres to lend an enlivening color note to clear soups4 ,two or three of these dropped into each plate just before serving makes a pleasing change from the usual croutons4 ,sprigs of fresh chickory make the daintiest of garnishes for cold meats1 and a few of the tender green stalks will add to the appearance of practically any salad4 ,as for water-cress and pepper-grass and1 of course1 parsley1 minced and otherwise1 no ,french chef would think of preparing a meal without a plentiful supply of them on hand4 ,it isn't essential that every dish should be turned into an elaborate work of art1 as if it were to be entered at the annual exhibition of the ,socit des ,chefs de ,cuisine1 but neither is there any reason1 even with modest means at command1 for giving cause for that old slogan of the great ,american dinner table3 ,it tastes better than it looks4 ,,sauces1 ,,simple ,,and ,,otherwise ,brillat-,savarin1 who would be remembered as a wit had he not been even more brilliant as a chef1 paid his respects to the ,english by saying they were a nation of a hundred religions and only one sauce4 ,being a true ,frenchman he believed a reversal of the numbers better for the soul4 ,it is certainly better for the appetite4 ,to be sure the proper mental sauce for a good dinner is wit1 and the best physical one1 hunger1 but as we all of us have more or less of an ,epicurean strain in us and do not eat solely to satisfy bodily needs1 it is well that the ,american cook who essays to bring variety to her board should have some knowledge of those ,gallic creations1 the sauces1 by which she is enabled to transform plain dishes into seemingly pretentious ones1 even though she never attain that sauce that ,balzac knew1 in which a mother might unsuspectingly eat her own child4 ,in the first place every ,french chef keeps three kinds of what he calls roux on hand1 ready for making meat and fish sauces4 ,these are made by cooking together eight ounces of butter and nine ounces of flour4 ,that intended for use with brown meats is stirred together till it becomes a medium brown in shade2 white roux is cooked only sufficiently to banish the raw taste and not allowed to color1 while pale roux is kept over the fire just long enough to attain a deep cream color4 ,these are mixed with milk1 soup stock1 water or gravy as the case may be when a sauce for fish1 meat or vegetables is needed4 ,for instance1 to make ,sauce la ,crme1 for use with white entres1 take two tablespoonfuls of the white roux in a saucepan with a cup of milk and a tablespoonful each of finely chopped parsley1 shallots and chives4 ,boil fifteen minutes1 pass through a colander into another saucepan1 add a small lump of butter1 more finely chopped parsley and salt and pepper4 ,mix well with a wooden spoon and it is ready for the table4 ,to make a favorite ,sauce ,piquante1 cut two onions into slices1 also a carrot and two shallots and put into a saucepan with a scant tablespoonful of butter4 ,while heating over a moderate fire1 add a sprig of thyme1 a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 a bayleaf and two or three cloves4 ,when the onions are golden brown add a tablespoonful of flour1 a little plain stock and a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,boil again1 pass through a sieve and season with salt and pepper4 ,a simple sauce is that ,matre d',htel1 which is rarely made at home though so generally liked4 ,put a lump of butter into a small saucepan over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives1 or parsley alone4 ,season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice and while it is sizzling pour over the hot steak or fish4 ,sauce d',anchois1 than which there isn't anything better with baked fish1 is also easy to make4 ,take three or four anchovies and mash them up well with two tablespoonfuls of butter4 ,now make about a pint of brown sauce with brown roux and milk1 and stir the anchovy butter into it4 ,just before taking from the fire add the juice of half a lemon or more1 according to taste4 ,sauce ,bearnaise was a favorite of ,henry of ,navarre1 and it is excellent with steaks1 chops and1 particularly1 roast beef4 ,to make it beat the yolks of three or four eggs in a saucepan1 add a tablespoonful of butter and a little salt4 ,stir over a slow fire till the eggs begin to thicken1 then remove and stir in two more tablespoonfuls of butter1 stirring till the butter is dissolved4 ,season with chopped fine herbs and parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of ,french vinegar4 ,in many parts of ,france they have a favorite dressing for boiled fish called ,sauce ,ravigote4 ,to make it mix half a pint of stock in a saucepan with a small amount of white wine or cider1 then chop fine herbs such as chervil1 tarragon1 chives and parsley1 or whatever other herbs are in season1 to the amount of about three tablespoonfuls1 and mix with the stock1 adding salt and pepper4 ,stew gently for about twenty minutes1 then blend a tablespoonful each of flour and butter1 stir into the sauce and continue to stir till thick4 ,just before serving squeeze in the juice of half a lemon4 ,the word ,ravigote means1 literally1 pick me up1 and it is applied to minced tarragon1 chervil1 chives and parsley1 the herbs being kept separate and served with salad on four little saucers4 ,ravigote butter1 made by kneading butter with the four herbs and adding pepper1 salt and lemon juice1 spread between thin slices of bread1 makes delicious sandwiches4 ,to make the very generally liked ,sauce ,blanquette1 which is used to raise cold meats to the dignity of a fricasse1 take about four ounces of pale roux1 thin slightly with boiling water added by degrees1 then put in a bunch of sweet herbs1 cooked button mushrooms and small onions and pepper and salt to taste4 ,put in whatever cold meat you have1 cook till it is well heated and serve4 ,the following is called ,sauce d',havre1 and through the use of it it will be discovered that the taste of curry is an agreeable one in many another case than in connection with the veal and rice arrangement to which most ,american cooks restrict it4 ,peel and slice four onions and two apples and place in a stewpan with four ounces of butter1 six peppercorns1 a sprig of thyme1 two bayleaves and a blade of mace4 ,when the onions have become slightly brown over the moderate fire1 stir in a mixture of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the same amount of curry powder1 shortly afterward adding six gills of white stock and half a pint of white sauce4 ,season with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist sugar1 boil for a quarter of an hour1 adding more white stock if necessary1 and stirring constantly4 ,put through a strainer into another saucepan1 boil up again1 skim1 and use when required4 ,fricasseed chicken takes on a new glory when it is prepared with ,sauce ,lyons4 ,this is made by stirring gradually three well-beaten eggs into half a pint of plain white sauce1 then placing the mixture in a jar and standing in boiling water till the sauce thickens4 ,just prior to pouring over the chicken add the strained juice of half a lemon4 ,,twenty-,,four ,,little ,,french ,,dinners ,i ,,menu ,potage la ,duchesse ,cabillaud la ,bechamel ,pommes de ,terre1 ,genevoise ,salade ,celeri ,pouding la ,vanille ,potage la ,duchesse4--,butter a baking sheet1 cover with four ounces of chou paste1 cook in the oven for six minutes1 then cover the paste with forcemeat in small lumps1 a little distance apart4 ,cut the paste into twelve equal sized pieces1 each piece holding a lump of the forcemeat1 place in a tureen1 pour over a quart of piping hot consomm and serve4 ,cabillaud la ,bechamel4--,mix an ounce of flour with an ounce and a half of butter melted in a saucepan1 then gradually add a pint of milk which has been allowed previously to simmer with a minced onion and carrot in it1 also a bunch of sweet herbs1 two or three cloves1 a grating of nutmeg and pepper and salt4 ,bring to a boil1 add two or three tablespoonfuls of cream1 strain and put back into the saucepan4 ,now put in two or three pounds of cod1 previously boiled and flaked1 being thoroughly free from skin and bones4 ,shake all together very gently and when all is thoroughly hot1 turn out onto a silver dish and garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,genevoise4--,shred four medium sized boiled potatoes1 season with a little salt and pepper4 ,butter lightly half a dozen tartlet moulds1 cover the bottoms with grated ,parmesan cheese1 arrange in each a layer of potatoes1 then another sprinkling of cheese1 and so on till the moulds are filled4 ,put a little butter on top4 ,place on a very hot stove or in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an hour4 ,serve on a hot dish in the moulds4 ,salade ,celeri4--,trim two or three heads of celery1 cut into short shreds1 wash thoroughly in cold water and drain4 ,place in a salad bowl1 season with a little salt1 a very little pepper and one or two tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar4 ,add several sprigs of pepper-grass and serve at once4 ,pouding la ,vanille4--,place a vanilla bean in a mortar together with half a pound of sugar and pound well together and sift4 ,separate the whites from the yolks of three eggs1 beat the yolks well1 stir them in with a pint of cream and mix in with the vanilla sugar4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix lightly in with the other ingredients4 ,butter a pudding mould1 pour in the mixture and cover with a sheet of oiled paper4 ,stand the mould in a saucepan of boiling water and steam the pudding for half an hour4 ,in the meantime prepare the following sauce3 ,pour a breakfast cupful of canned or fresh pineapple juice into a lined pan with the juice of a lemon4 ,put this on the fire till it boils1 then pour it over a tablespoonful of arrowroot1 stirring all the time4 ,return the sauce to the saucepan and stir till it thickens over the fire4 ,when the pudding is cooked1 turn it out onto a hot dish1 strain the sauce over it and serve4 ,be careful that no water enters the mould containing the pudding while it is cooking1 or it will be spoiled4 ,,ii ,,menu ,consomm la ,napolitaine ,cabillaud la ,financire ,pommes de ,terre en ,rubans ,beignets la ,printemps ,choufleur au ,gratin ,bavaroise au ,caf ,consomm la ,napolitaine4--,place in a saucepan with a lump of butter equal quantities of finely minced carrots1 turnips1 a head of lettuce and one of endive with a little chervil4 ,add a quart of the water in which the cauliflower in this dinner was cooked1 pepper and salt1 and simmer for an hour4 ,just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of an egg and half a pint of milk4 ,cabillaud la ,financire4--,cook a piece of cod weighing three pounds in salted water for twenty minutes1 drain a place on a serving platter covered with the following sauce3 ,put two glasses of ,madeira wine and a small piece of meat glaze in a saucepan with a pint of ,spanish sauce and a gill each of essence of mushrooms and truffles4 ,boil till it coats the spoon4 ,pommes de ,terre en ,rubans4--,take large1 smooth1 pared potatoes and cut round and round in spirals about an eighth of an inch thick4 ,keep covered with a damp napkin till all are cut1 place in a frying basket and fry in very hot fat till a light straw color4 ,sprinkle freely with salt and serve immediately4 ,beignets la ,printemps4--,make a sauce of two ounces of butter1 four ounces of flour1 a tablespoonful of brandy1 a pinch of salt1 sufficient water to make a creamy paste4 ,cook and1 removing from the stove1 work in the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth4 ,cut into pieces any fruit desired1 dip them in the batter and fry in butter to a light golden brown4 ,drain well1 place in a serving dish1 sprinkle well with powdered sugar and serve4 ,if the fruit is not fully ripe1 parboil in syrup before using4 ,choufleur au ,gratin4--,soak a cauliflower in water with plenty of salt1 then boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen minutes4 ,remove and take away all the green leaves1 lay it on a flat buttered dish1 previously rubbed with an onion1 and pour over it a sauce made as follows3 ,melt an ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan1 add a dessertspoonful of flour1 mix and add a cup of milk4 ,stir till it thickens1 add pepper and salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,mix well and after pouring over the cauliflower sprinkle all over with breadcrumbs and place the dish in the oven till nicely browned4 ,bavaroise au ,caf4--,mix the beaten yolks of two eggs with a pint of milk and a cup of very strong black coffee4 ,bring to a boil in a saucepan1 remove from the fire and allow to get cold1 stirring occasionally4 ,add the yolks of two more eggs beaten stiff with two ounces of sugar4 ,mix well and then add the stiffly beaten whites of the four eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved gelatin4 ,pour into a mould and turn out when set4 ,,iii ,,menu ,filet de ,sole la ,provenal ,poulet ,saut l',estragon ,artichauts la ,barigoule ,petit ,petac ,souffl ,georgette ,filets des ,soles la ,provenal4--,sprinkle the filets with pepper and salt and a little allspice and fry in salad oil with a finely chopped onion and a little chopped parsley4 ,serve with a slice of lemon on each filet4 ,poulet ,saut l',estragon4--,sprinkle the pieces of a cut up raw chicken with pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan with a little oil4 ,make a gravy of a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon stalks have been boiled for an hour1 dish up the fowl on a hot platter1 pour over the sauce1 straining it1 and sprinkle on top tarragon leaves blanched and coarsely chopped4 ,artichauts la ,barigoule4--,cut off the tops and leaves of the artichokes and boil the bottoms in plenty of slightly salted water till tender4 ,scoop out the fibrous interior4 ,grate some cooked bacon into a saucepan with a gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth4 ,cook for five minutes4 ,put a little of this mixture in each artichoke1 cover the opening with a slice of lemon and bake in a saut-pan in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,petit ,petac4--,peel tiny new potatoes and saut in oil till a golden brown4 ,sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve4 ,souffl ,georgette4--,grate a half-dozen stale macaroons into a half-cup of brandy1 add a pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of dissolved gelatine4 ,whip in a dozen maraschino cherries and turn into a mould to harden4 ,serve with macaroons dipped into the liquid that comes around the maraschino cherries4 ,a custard may be used in this recipe instead of the cream4 ,,iv ,,menu ,potage au ,riz ,rougets en ,papillotes ,veau la ,suzette ,demi tasse ,potage au ,riz4--,put half a pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan with two quarts of vegetable stock and boil till tender4 ,when the rice is cooked move the saucepan to the side of the fire and mix in a cupful of stewed tomatoes and an ounce and a half of butter4 ,serve with sippets of toast or croutons that have been fried in butter4 ,rougets en ,papillotes4--,this recipe is for mullets1 but any small1 plump fish may be used4 ,make a paper case for each fish with a sheet of well-oiled notepaper and put the cases into the oven for a few minutes to harden4 ,sprinkle the under sides of the fish with pepper and salt and lay them in their cases with a small piece of butter under and over each4 ,place the cases in a baking-dish and cook for about twenty minutes in the oven1 or more if the fish are otherwise than small4 ,sprinkle well with lemon juice just before serving4 ,veau la ,suzette4--,trim saddle of veal neatly and put it into a saucepan with a good sized piece of butter4 ,turn it constantly on the fire till it is a rich golden color all over1 then put it onto a dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,add more butter to the gravy in the saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut up in sections like oranges4 ,cover the saucepan and cook1 shaking frequently1 till the potatoes have a good color4 ,add an onion1 finely minced1 and when it is browned1 a clove of garlic1 minced very fine2 next put in a tablespoonful of flour followed1 when the flour is brown1 by about two cupfuls of stock4 ,stir well and put back the meat and any juice that may have oozed from it4 ,lastly add a bouquet of herbs1 simmer for an hour at least and serve the meat surrounded by the potatoes with the sauce poured over the whole4 ,v ,,menu ,potage l',amricaine ,filet d',eglefin ,gigot de ,mouton aux pinards ,chou de ,mer au ,fromage ,petites ,crmes au ,chocolat ,potage l',amricaine4--,parboil a medium sized cauliflower in salted water1 change the water and boil till done4 ,drain well and press through a sieve4 ,dilute with consomm or broth4 ,boil a few minutes more1 stirring well4 ,beat up in a basin the yolk of an egg with three tablespoonfuls of cream1 add this to a few tablespoonfuls of the cauliflower mixture1 then1 taking the saucepan containing the soup from the fire1 add the egg and cream mixture and stir together4 ,add half an ounce of butter and serve with croutons4 ,filet d',eglefin4--,cut a haddock into fillets1 trimming into pieces about six inches long4 ,dip them in well beaten egg and then into sifted breadcrumbs and plunge into deep1 well-boiling fat1 frying to a rich color1 turning occasionally to cook both sides evenly4 ,remove1 drain1 put on a cloth spread over a hot dish and serve with a simple white sauce4 ,gigot de ,mouton aux pinards4--,roast a small leg of mutton1 putting some salt and a small quantity of water at the bottom of the tin4 ,when half cooked1 remove the meat and carefully skim the gravy of all fat4 ,return the mutton to the tin1 pour gravy over it and surround it with potatoes cut to the size of walnuts4 ,put back in the oven1 letting the potatoes cook in the juice of the meat4 ,meanwhile cook about three pounds of spinach1 drain1 squeeze out all water and pass through a sieve4 ,return to a saucepan in which about two ounces of butter has been heated and season with pepper and salt4 ,add a tablespoonful of gravy from the mutton and allow the spinach to simmer till the meat is done4 ,then pile the spinach with the potatoes about the meat and serve1 having the gravy in a sauceboat4 ,chou de ,mer au ,fromage4--,carefully wash sea-kale to remove grit1 remove any black parts from the roots and tie up the shoots in small bundles4 ,cook in boiling salted water for twenty minutes1 drain and keep hot4 ,mix on the fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour1 moisten with half a cup of water in which the kale was cooked1 bring to a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,take from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg4 ,arrange the kale on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over and serve immediately4 ,petites ,crmes au ,chocolat4--,mix two tablespoonfuls of chocolate or cocoa in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to taste4 ,when nearly cold add to this the yolks of two eggs1 well beaten1 and a gill of heavy cream4 ,mix thoroughly and strain into china cases4 ,place these in a large shallow stewpan containing just sufficient water to reach half way up on the cases4 ,let steam for twenty minutes1 when the custard ought to be firm4 ,the water should be boiling when the cases are first put in1 but afterwards may simmer4 ,put the cases on ice1 and serve as cold as possible with little sponge cakes or lady fingers4 ,,vi ,,menu ,potage pure de ,pois ,secs ,saumon la ,hollandaise ,pommes de ,terre1 ,barigoule ,haricots verts au riz tomate ,potage ,pure de ,pois ,secs4--,boil a pint of green peas in three pints of water with a piece of fat ham or bacon1 two carrots1 an onion1 a leek1 a bayleaf1 some parsley1 pepper and salt4 ,allow to simmer two or three hours1 stirring occasionally4 ,pass the peas and onions through a hair sieve and add the strained liquor4 ,return to the saucepan1 boil up1 add some whole cooked peas with a little mint and serve4 ,saumon la ,hollandaise4--,cut a piece of salmon from the middle of the fish1 cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt4 ,bring slowly to a boil1 removing scum1 and allow to simmer till the fish is done4 ,drain thoroughly and serve with the following sauce in a boat3 ,take three ounces of butter1 the yolks of two eggs and put them in a double boiler over the fire1 stirring briskly till the butter is dissolved4 ,mix in a scant ounce of flour1 stir well and add the juice of a lemon1 half a pint of milk1 a little grated nutmeg and pepper and salt4 ,stir constantly till the sauce thickens to the consistency of a custard4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,barigoule4--,place ten potatoes in a saucepan with enough broth to cover them and boil slowly till done4 ,drain1 taking care not to break them4 ,put a teacupful of olive oil into a deep frying pan1 heat1 put in the potatoes1 tossing them till they are browned all over lightly4 ,place on a dish and sprinkle with salt1 pepper and vinegar4 ,serve piping hot4 ,haricots verts au riz tomate4--,boil rice carefully so that every grain will be separate1 toss it in a little butter and moisten with tomato sauce and add the yolk of an egg1 well beaten and stirred in1 and a little ,parmesan cheese4 ,make a border of the rice on a dish and pile in the center some ,french beans plainly boiled and tossed in a little butter with some pepper and salt4 ,,vii ,,menu ,potage ,velout ,brochet la ,tartare ,biftecks sauts aux ,olives ,pommes de ,terre la ,lyonnaise pinards au ,gratin ,beignets ,souffls ,potage ,velout4--,boil a cup and a half of tapioca in two quarts of water and season with salt and pepper4 ,at the bottom of a tureen place a lump of butter1 and the yolks of two eggs1 pour the tapioca over while it is still boiling1 add a pint of hot milk and serve4 ,brochet la ,tartare4--,cut a fresh pike into slices and marinade each slice separately with a sauce made of sufficient olive oil1 black pepper1 a minced onion1 finely cut mushrooms and chopped parsley4 ,cover the fish with breadcrumbs and broil1 brushing occasionally with the marinade4 ,when it is a golden color remove from the fire1 place on a hot platter and serve sprinkled with parsley with a tartar sauce in a sauceboat4 ,biftecks sauts aux ,olives4--,cut the steak into six pieces and toss in a frying pan with lard4 ,when well done sprinkle with seasoning and remove from the fire4 ,then take half a glass of white wine1 a tablespoonful of consomm1 two or three dozen green olives1 with the pits removed1 and boil together for a few minutes4 ,set the steak in a crown on the platter and in the center place the dressing4 ,pour the gravy from the frying pan over all and serve4 ,pommes de ,terre la ,lyonnaise4--,take a dozen potatoes of the same size1 cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a dollar1 roll in flour and put into a frying pan with boiling fat1 taking them out when they are a golden brown4 ,also fry some thin slices of onion1 mix with the potatoes1 sprinkle with salt and serve garnished with parsley4 pinards au ,gratin4--,boil two pounds of spinach and chop very fine4 ,beat up two eggs to each pound of spinach1 mix with it and sprinkle the whole with breadcrumbs4 ,pour over some olive oil or melted butter and heat thoroughly in the oven in a vegetable dish4 ,beignets ,souffls4--,put a pound of flour1 a pinch of salt1 a liquor glass of rum1 the yolks of three eggs and a quantity of lukewarm water into a mixing dish and beat these together till it shrinks from the dish4 ,then mix in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and then allow to rise for an hour or so4 ,have a baking dish very hot and put in the paste in pieces the size of a nut1 which will triple in size while cooking4 ,let them cook to a golden color1 remove from the fire and sprinkle with powdered sugar4 ,serve hot4 ,,viii ,,menu ,consomm ,royale ,filet de ,sole la ,vntienne ,salade ,barbe de ,capucin ,beignets de ,pches ,consomm ,royale4--,beat two eggs and mix them with half a cup of milk and a pinch of salt4 ,pour into a basin1 stand this in a larger one containing hot water1 place in the oven and bake till the contents of the small basin are firm1 renewing water in the larger dish if necessary4 ,allow to cool and when set cut into small well-shaped pieces1 pour over them a quart of hot consomm and serve immediately4 ,filet de ,sole la ,vntienne4--,place in a buttered tin two small or one large onion cut in thin slices1 a little chopped parsley1 a bayleaf1 one or two whole cloves and salt and pepper4 ,lay the fillets of two soles on these with a generous piece of butter1 pour over half a pint of white stock and a small glass of white wine4 ,cover the tin with oiled paper1 and bake in the oven for about twelve minutes4 ,when the fish is cooked take out all the liquor except just enough to keep the fish moist as it remains in the oven turned very low1 strain it and add three-quarters of an ounce of flour and the same amount of butter4 ,bring the sauce to a boil1 take it from the fire1 add the yolk of an egg and a good amount of blanched parsley and chervil1 chopped very fine4 ,arrange the fillets of sole on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over and serve4 ,salade ,barbe de ,capucin4--,carefully pick over and break into convenient pieces the required amount of chicory and place in a salad bowl well rubbed with an onion4 ,just before serving pour over a ,french dressing1 remembering to be in making it a spendthrift for oil1 a miser for vinegar1 a counselor for salt and a madman to stir it all up4 ,beignets des ,pches4--,peel1 stone and cut in halves some firm peaches4 ,toss about in a bowl with sugar1 being careful not to break4 ,put a pound of flour in a basin and stir in gradually half a pint of water4 ,mix the whites of two stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and then add one and a quarter ounces of melted butter4 ,bring olive oil to a good heat in a frying pan1 dip each piece of peach in the batter and fry in the fat4 ,when lightly browned drain on a cloth or paper1 lay on a baking dish1 sift powdered sugar over and glaze by placing in a hot oven a few minutes4 ,arrange in pyramid shape on a folded napkin on a hot dish and serve immediately4 ,canned peaches1 if firm1 may1 of course1 be substituted for the fresh fruit4 ,,ix ,,menu ,ctelettes de ,saumon1 l',anglaise ,pommes de ,terre1 ,marquise ,petits ,pois la ,paysanne ,salade ,amricaine ,choux au ,chocolat ,ctelettes de ,saumon1 ,anglaise4--,divide slices of salmon into shape of cutlets1 sprinkle with pepper and salt and put into a saucepan with a small amount of butter and toss over the fire4 ,when cooked take out and drain1 place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce3 ,put three tablespoonfuls of velout sauce into a saucepan1 reduce slightly and add one egg1 four ounces of butter1 a little salt1 cayenne1 some finely minced parsley and the juice of half a lemon4 ,mix together well over the fire till the ingredients are blended and it is ready4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,marquise4--,boil potatoes in salted water and pass through a sieve4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 chopped parsley and a little chopped thyme4 ,moisten with some good gravy or stock and form into small balls4 ,dip each in well beaten egg and fry to a light brown in butter4 ,petits ,pois la ,paysanne4--,take fresh green peas1 or canned ones if the former are not available1 put over the fire in a saucepan with plenty of butter and stir frequently4 ,cut one or two rashers of bacon in very small dice and toss them in a saucepan over the fire4 ,when the bacon is well fried1 mix in with the peas and let the two finish cooking together1 seasoning with pepper1 salt and a little sugar4 ,salade ,amricaine4--,cut in rounds resembling a quarter-dollar equal quantities of new potatoes1 carrots and beet root1 all previously cooked4 ,then add a sour apple1 cut in the same shape1 and a few anchovies cut in small pieces4 ,pour over this a dressing of three parts oil to one of vinegar1 add pepper1 salt1 mustard and chopped parsley4 ,pile the salad up and surround with cress4 ,choux au ,chocolat4--,into a small saucepan put half a cup of water with two ounces of butter and one of sugar4 ,when boiling add gradually two and a half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir till the mixture is stiff4 ,take from the fire1 stir some more1 then add two eggs1 one at a time1 beat the whole well1 and leave to cool4 ,butter a baking sheet1 lay the paste on it in round balls the size of a plum and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes4 ,allow to cool and then make an incision in the side of each and fill with whipped cream slightly flavored with vanilla or with jam4 ,just before serving glaze each chou slightly with a chocolate icing4 ,x ,,menu ,consomm ,duchesse ,saumon1 ,sauce ,piquante ,rissolettes de ,buf ,salade la ,reine ,crme ,noyau ,duchesse ,consomm4--,boil four tablespoonfuls of rice 7ground7 in four cups of water for fifteen minutes1 adding half a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar4 ,when the rice is soft and just before serving add a quart of warmed milk1 bring to a boil1 adding lastly a dash of pepper and paprika4 ,saumon1 ,sauce ,piquante4--,take slices of salmon about three-quarters of an inch in thickness and place in a saucepan with hot fish broth mixed with a small quantity of wine4 ,allow to simmer for fifteen minutes4 ,when cooked remove and wipe free from broth1 place on a hot platter and serve with a sauce made as follows3 ,melt a quantity of butter1 flavor to taste with tarragon vinegar1 pepper1 mustard1 fennel and such spices as are liked4 ,stir over the fire till cooked1 move to the side of the stove1 thicken with the yolk of an egg and serve4 ,rissolettes de ,buf4--,with four cups of finely minced beef mix one cup of breadcrumbs1 adding one boiled onion1 a little essence of anchovies1 salt1 pepper and a raw egg4 ,make into balls1 roll in breadcrumbs and fry slowly4 ,prepare a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the water in which the onion was boiled1 thicken with flour or cornstarch1 add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and pour over the rissolettes which should be arranged on a heated platter around a heap of mashed potatoes4 ,salade la ,reine4--,lay strips of endive lengthwise on the salad plates and cross them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections like an orange4 ,dress with a ,french salad dressing4 ,crme ,noyau4--,pound in a mortar together a quarter pound of ,jordan and an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant half cup of cream and two ounces of sugar4 ,rub through a sieve into a bowl1 add a pint of whipped cream flavored with ,noyau and then an ounce of gelatine dissolved4 ,pour into a mould to set4 ,serve with champagne wafers4 ,,xi ,,menu ,consomm la ,madrilne ,perches aux ,fines ,herbes ,filets ,mignons aux ,pommes de ,terre ,aubergines ,farcies ,omelette au ,rhum ,consomm la ,madrilne4--,put through a medium sieve five or six boiled ripe tomatoes1 or a can of tomatoes1 allow to cool and pack in a freezer4 ,add to a cold consomm and serve in cups4 ,perches aux ,fines ,herbes4--,prepare six fresh perch and marinade them with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil1 a sprig of parsley1 a little pepper and salt and allspice1 bayleaf and other strong spices chopped fine4 ,keep the fish in this for about an hour1 remove and roll in breadcrumbs lightly flavored with spices4 ,grill over a low fire till a golden brown in color and serve with butter sauce4 ,filets ,mignons aux ,pommes de ,terre4--,marinade the required number of small filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned with salt and chervil4 ,leave for an hour or more and just before they are to be served1 grill them1 basting frequently with the butter4 ,flavor with lemon juice and serve with buttered fried potatoes4 ,aubergines ,farcies4--,cut eggplants in halves lengthwise1 remove the inside and of this make a farcie by mixing it with chopped parsley1 two chopped onions and salt and pepper4 ,stuff the eggplant halves with this mixture and put the combination into a casserole containing a good quantity of melted butter and allow to simmer over a slow fire till all is thoroughly done4 ,cover the tops with breadcrumbs1 add a drop of oil or a little melted butter and keep piping hot till served4 ,omelette au ,rhum4--,prepare an omelette as for any sweet omelette and just before serving place on a hot platter1 pour rum over1 ignite and carry to the table blazing4 ,,xii ,,menu ,potage ,riz1 ,crey ,canaps de ,saumon ,fum ,paupiettes de ,porc1 ,sauce ,piquante ,asperges en ,petits ,pois ,tarte la ,turque ,potage ,riz1 ,crey4--,cut several firm1 red carrots lengthwise1 using only the red part4 ,place in a casserole with a good bouillon and allow to simmer over a slow fire4 ,pass through a sieve when the carrots are soft1 and put back in the bouillon4 ,add a cupful of cooked rice1 bring to a boil and serve4 ,canaps de ,saumon ,fum4--,cut a smoked salmon into slices and spread them with butter1 adding pepper and salt and a pinch of nutmeg4 ,heat over a crisp fire1 place on a hot dish1 cover with croutons and serve4 ,paupiettes de ,porc1 ,sauce ,piquante4--,take small slices of cold roast pork and spread them with sausage meat4 ,roll them and fasten with skewers1 then cover with a thin coating of lard or with oiled paper and cook them over a low fire in a casserole4 ,when thoroughly done1 take off the papers1 cover with breadcrumbs and brown4 ,serve with a piquant sauce4 ,asperges en ,petits ,pois4--,cut up the green part of two bunches of asparagus1 roll in butter and add a little salt4 ,heat a cupful of flour1 being careful not to allow it to color1 and dredge the asparagus with it4 ,put into a saucepan with sufficient milk and water in equal parts to cover1 add a bouquet of herbs and allow the whole to simmer till the asparagus is cooked4 ,season with white pepper and serve4 ,tarte la ,turque4--,boil a cupful of rice till thick in milk to which has been added a stick of cinnamon1 a little lemon juice and sugar4 ,when the rice is cooked allow to cool4 ,make a border of it on a buttered plate and fill the center with a marmalade made as follows3 ,cut the peeled stalks of a bunch of rhubarb into dice and allow them to simmer in a small amount of water till they are of the consistency of marmalade4 ,add three or four teaspoonfuls of sugar1 a lump of butter and the rind of a lemon4 ,take from the fire and immediately add the beaten yolks of two eggs4 ,arrange1 as stated1 in the middle of the rice1 sprinkle with a little more sugar and set in the oven for fifteen minutes or more before serving4 ,,xiii ,,menu ,potage la ,chicore ,allumettes d',anchois ,buf ,bouilli en ,vinaigrette ,pommes ,maire ,salade de ,tomates ,crme ,brule ,potage la ,chicore4--,pick carefully and wash two or three heads of chicory1 cut into shreds and pass through a little heated butter without allowing to take color4 ,then add sufficient of the water in which the ,pommes ,maire 7below7 were boiled to make the required quantity of soup1 add pepper and salt1 simmer for an hour4 ,just after taking from the fire add the beaten yolk of an egg4 ,pour into the tureen over toasted slices of stale bread4 ,allumettes d',anchois4--,make a fritter paste with flour and oil1 omitting salt4 ,soften with white wine4 ,wash the desired number of anchovies1 remove the bones and draw out the salt by soaking in milk4 ,dip into the paste and fry4 ,buf ,bouilli en ,vinaigrette4--,cut cold1 lean beef into narrow1 thin slices4 ,place it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion and some chervil1 a few cut-up gherkins1 a teaspoonful of capers1 pour oil1 a little vinegar and the juice of half a lemon over1 add pepper and salt1 toss well together and serve at once4 ,pommes ,maire4--,use kidney potatoes if procurable2 if not1 ordinary potatoes of small size4 ,boil in salt water and peel while still hot1 then cut in thick chips and place in a casserole and cover with boiling milk4 ,season with pepper and salt and allow to boil1 turning with a fork till the milk has boiled away4 ,remove from the fire1 pour over a cup of rich milk1 season again and serve4 ,salade de ,tomates4--,cut a pound of not too ripe tomatoes into one inch cubes1 add salt1 pepper1 vinegar and oil to taste and then toss together with a minced onion4 ,serve right away4 ,if desired1 cold boiled beef in dainty slices may be added4 ,crme ,brule4--,blend a tablespoonful of flour with the yolks of three eggs and place in a casserole4 ,pour slowly in a pint or more of milk1 add a pinch of cinnamon1 a few drops of extract of lemon or any flavor desired1 and stir constantly over the fire4 ,when the cream is cooked1 make a caramel sauce in a porcelain pot by melting five or six lumps of sugar and cooking to the browning point4 ,pour this into a serving dish1 pour the cream over it and allow to cool4 ,,xiv ,,menu ,bisque d',herbes ,turbot la ,rachel ,choufleur au ,gratin ,salade ,barbe de ,capucin ,gteau de ,frangipane ,bisque d',herbes4--,chop together about a handful each of lettuce1 sorrel1 spinach1 also a small onion1 a little celery and some chervil and cook all with an egg-sized piece of butter for fifteen minutes1 stirring constantly4 ,then add three tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth with a little stock1 stir in four cupfuls of the cauliflower water 7which you will have from a recipe following7 into which has been beaten the yolk of an egg4 ,serve very hot with croutons4 ,turbot la ,rachel4--,boil the fish in salted water4 ,whitefish or haddock will serve as well as turbot4 ,make the following sauce3 ,smooth and brown together two tablespoonfuls of flour and two ounces of butter and stir in five gills of water in which the fish was boiled1 adding a teaspoonful each of anchovy essence and mushroom catsup4 ,remove from the fire and beat in the yolks of two eggs and the juice of one lemon4 ,color with liquid carmine or a few drops of cochineal and pour over the fish4 ,choufleur au ,gratin4--,dip the cauliflower into ice water1 then plunge it into boiling salted water to cook fifteen minutes4 ,cut a slice off the stalk1 remove the leaves1 lay on a flat dish and cover with a cream sauce4 ,sprinkle with grated breadcrumbs and grated ,parmesan cheese1 brown in the oven and serve4 ,salade ,barbe de ,capucin4--,lay the stalks of ,american endive in a dish and cut into small pieces a medium shallot4 ,mix1 add a ,french dressing and sprinkle with finely chopped tarragon leaves4 ,gteau de ,frangipane4--,whisk together a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of three eggs1 then beat in three tablespoonfuls of milk1 the grated peel of a lemon and a dash of salt4 ,then stir in half a pound of flour4 ,bake in patty tins and when done scoop a piece out of the top of each patty and fill with jam4 ,then pour over a sauce made as follows3 ,put two wineglassfuls of white wine into a small saucepan and stir in a cupful of orange marmalade with the juice of a lemon4 ,thicken with a little corn-starch4 ,,xv ,,menu ,potage ,bisque ,canard la ,pertinset ,pommes de ,terre la ,crme ,choufleur au ,beurre ,noir ,salade de ,lentilles ,pches au ,vin ,potage ,bisque4--,boil as many crabs as are needed in water1 adding salt1 pepper1 two good sized onions and equal quantities of carrots and chives4 ,remove the crabs and take the meat from the claws4 ,mash the vegetables until they form a pure and add a good sized lump of butter4 ,place over the fire with water or bouillon and allow to come to a boil4 ,serve very hot with croutons and the meat from the crab claws4 ,canard la ,pertinset4--,place a carefully prepared duck in a casserole and dredge it with a lump of melted butter1 add two onions1 one clove1 a dash of garlic4 ,put in the oven but do not allow the onions to become too brown before removing the duck4 ,then add five or six tomatoes1 one glass of white wine1 a glass of bouillon1 a few cloves and a bayleaf4 ,let this boil over a low fire1 then mash the tomatoes and onions1 put back the duck into the casserole and boil for forty minutes4 ,pommes de ,terre la ,crme4--,put into a casserole a lump of butter1 a pinch of flour1 salt and pepper1 nutmeg and a young onion4 ,mix well and add a cup of rich milk4 ,place on the fire1 stir constantly1 and remove as soon as the mixture comes to a boil4 ,meanwhile boil as many potatoes as are required in salted water4 ,peel and cut into slices1 add to the sauce and serve4 ,choufleur au ,beurre ,noir4--,boil a cauliflower and drain4 ,add a pinch of salt1 nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of the water in which the cauliflower was cooked4 ,melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and when it is a light brown add it to the mixture4 ,pour over the cauliflower on a hot platter4 ,salade de ,lentilles4--,having boiled two cupfuls of lentils till they are tender1 season them either hot or cold with a little garlic cut up fine1 or with chives and serve in lettuce leaves with a ,french dressing4 ,pches au ,vin4--,put peaches into a stewpan and cover them with water4 ,in ten minutes remove the skins4 ,then place them in a shallow dish and cover them either with ,madeira or ,moselle wine and allow them to stand for at least two hours4 ,then drain them1 place them in the dish in which they are to be served and cover them with vanilla sugar4 ,set the wine in which they have been soaked on the fire1 add sugar to taste1 and pour the sauce boiling over the peaches4 ,,xvi ,,menu ,sardines ,grilles ,chapon l',indienne ,pommes de ,terre en ,matelote ,salade ,beaucaire ,crme ,fouette ,sardines ,grilles4--,grill half a dozen sardines1 or as many as desired1 for a few minutes4 ,melt butter in a frying-pan1 stir in a little flour and moisten with hot water1 then add a few drops of vinegar1 a dash of mustard1 salt and pepper4 ,pour this very hot over the sardines4 ,chapon l',indienne4--,prepare and truss a capon as for roasting1 rub all over with butter and place in a casserole with a good sized slice of salt pork4 ,cook over a slow fire for three hours4 ,in the meantime cook a cupful of rice1 season it with a little curry powder and pimento1 and place around the capon on the platter on which it is served4 ,pommes de ,terre en ,matelote4--,slice freshly boiled potatoes and cook en casserole with seasoning of pepper and salt1 two or three sliced onions1 a sprig of chopped parsley1 a lump of butter and a small amount of flour and water4 ,cook till all the ingredients are well blended and when heaped on a platter and ready for the table1 pour over a glass or two of wine4 ,salade ,beaucaire4--,chop coarsely celery and endive together1 season with oil1 vinegar and mustard an hour before using4 ,just before taking to the table1 add chopped boiled ham1 a sour apple1 diced1 moistened with a little tarragon and mayonnaise4 ,surround the salad with a border of small potatoes1 boiled and sliced1 alternated with slices of beet4 ,crme ,fouette4--,whip cream till it is very thick or make about a quart of custard4 ,mash thoroughly a pound of cherries or raspberries1 or both with powdered sugar4 ,mix with the cream or custard1 beat again and serve immediately4 ,in summer this may be iced with good results4 ,,xvii ,,menu ,potage ,macdoine ,homards et ,champignons ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,brunoise ,petits ,pois la ,franaise ,choux la ,crme ,potage ,macdoine4--,place thin pieces of ham in the bottom of a saucepan and then put in three each of turnips1 potatoes and onions1 all cut up small4 ,pour in some stock1 season with pepper and salt and simmer till the ham and vegetables are cooked4 ,add a quart of milk and bring almost to a boil1 strain and serve immediately4 ,homards et ,champignons4--,cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and mushrooms into dice4 ,boil some velout sauce together with some essence of mushrooms till somewhat reduced1 then thicken and mix with the lobster and mushrooms4 ,fill ramekin cases with the preparation1 sprinkle with breadcrumbs1 pour over a little melted butter and bake in the oven till browned4 ,serve piping hot4 ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,brunoise4--,trim mutton cutlets neatly1 cutting away all fat1 and place side by side in a large stewpan4 ,cover with well-flavored stock and leave to simmer1 well covered1 for an hour and a half4 ,take equal quantities of turnips1 onions and celery and double the amount of carrots1 cut all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in butter till they begin to color1 putting in first the carrots1 then the celery1 then the onions and last the turnips4 ,when all are done1 drain and allow them to simmer gently in a little common stock4 ,a little while before the cutlets are done drain off all the surplus stock from the vegetables1 or boil it down quickly over a hot fire4 ,dress the cutlets on the rim of a platter1 heap the vegetables in the center and pour the gravy all over them4 ,accompany with mashed potatoes4 ,petits ,pois la ,franaise4--,cook a pint of shelled peas till tender1 drain and place on the back of the fire with not quite a gill of the water in which they have been boiled1 a little flour and an ounce of butter4 ,simmer for five minutes1 adding pepper and salt to taste and just before taking from the fire add the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful and a half of cream4 ,serve very hot in china or paper cases4 ,choux la ,crme4--,put a small piece of butter in a saucepan with half a pint of water1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 a piece of lemon peel and a little salt4 ,boil well together1 stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir till thick and cooked4 ,allow this paste to cool and then work into it two eggs and sufficient milk to make it thin enough to drop from a spoon4 ,heat lard in a deep frying pan1 not quite to the point of boiling1 and with a spoon drop the paste into it in lumps about the size of a hen's egg4 ,when slightly brown and well swollen1 remove the cakes1 drain them well1 scoop out a little of the top of each to form a hollow and allow them to cool4 ,whip cream to a stiff froth and put a small amount into the hollow of each chou1 arrange on a fancy dish and serve4 ,the chou may be filled with jelly or preserves if preferred4 ,,xviii ,,menu ,potage la ,printanire ,paupiettes de ,veau ,pommes de ,terre1 ,matre d',htel ,salade de ,laitue ,feuillantines ,potage la ,printanire4--,cut two carrots and one turnip into shapes with a vegetable scoop1 simmer for twenty minutes in salted water1 drain and place in a quart of the water in which the potatoes 7in this same menu7 were boiled4 ,add a handful of chiffonade1 cook five minutes and serve4 ,paupiettes de ,veau4--,cut thin cutlets from a fillet of veal and beat them flat and even4 ,also mince a small quantity of the veal very fine1 mix it with some of the kidney fat1 also minced fine1 and half a dozen minced anchovies1 adding a little salt1 ginger and powdered mace4 ,place this mixture over the slices of veal and roll them up4 ,beat up an egg1 dip the rolled slices in it and then in sifted breadcrumbs4 ,let them stand for fifteen or twenty minutes1 egg them again1 roll in breadcrumbs and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping1 or stew them in some rich gravy with half a pint of white wine and a small quantity of walnut pickle4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,matre d',htel4--,cut up carefully selected1 underboiled and cold potatoes in rather thick slices4 ,dredge half a tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan with a lump of butter and when smooth add gradually a cupful of broth1 stirring till it boils4 ,place in the potatoes along with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and pepper and salt4 ,stew for three or four minutes1 remove the pan to the side of the fire and add quickly the yolk of an egg previously well beaten with a teaspoonful of cold water and a little lemon juice4 ,when the egg has become thickened1 turn the potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish and serve4 ,salade de ,laitue4--,select fine lettuces1 remove the coarse outer leaves1 wash and wipe1 place in a salad bowl and sprinkle over a tablespoonful of chopped chives1 half a teaspoonful each of chopped chervil and tarragon4 ,season with a pinch of salt1 half a teaspoonful of pepper1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful and a half of oil4 ,mix thoroughly and serve4 ,feuillantines4--,prepare some puff paste2 roll out to about a third of an inch thick and cut into strips an inch wide and two inches long4 ,spread a baking dish thick with butter1 arrange the pieces of paste on it1 placing them upon their sides and leaving a small space between them4 ,put them in the oven and when they are firm and their sides have spread1 glaze them with white of egg and dust with powdered sugar4 ,as the feuillantines are cooked set them on paper and drain off any extra grease4 ,now mask them separately with small quantities of different colored jams4 ,arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a folded napkin on a dish and serve4 ,,xix ,,menu ,potage ,crme d',orge ,buf la ,mode ,pommes de ,terre1 ,sautes ,salade de ,romaine ,souffl au ,chocolat ,potage ,crme d',orge4--,mix in a saucepan a teacupful of barley1 an onion1 a small piece of cinnamon1 half a blade of mace and three pints of water in which potatoes have been boiled4 ,when the mixture boils remove from the center of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for three hours or more4 ,pass through a fine sieve and return to saucepan4 ,mix in two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pint of boiling milk1 season with pepper and salt4 ,beat an egg yolk in a teacupful of milk1 mix in the soup but do not allow to boil after egg is added4 ,serve with croutons4 ,buf la ,mode4--,take the under part of a round of beef1 place it in a deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar4 ,let the meat remain in this for several hours1 then dress it with strips of salt pork1 a third of an inch square1 inserted in incisions made a few inches apart4 ,stuff larger incisions with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt1 pepper1 onions1 thyme and marjoram4 ,bind the beef into a shape to retain the dressing and dredge with flour4 ,then cut up two onions1 half a carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat drippings till brown and place in a stewpan4 ,brown the meat all over with the same fat1 place on a trivet in the pan1 half cover with boiling water1 add a small quantity of mixed herbs tied in a bag1 cover and simmer for about four hours1 or till done4 ,take out carefully1 remove strings and cloth1 and place on a large dish4 ,skim off the fat from the gravy1 add more seasoning1 thicken with wetted flour worked smooth1 boil for eight or ten minutes and strain over the meat4 ,decorate with small onions and potato balls4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,sautes4--,boil potatoes until almost done1 cut into quarters or slices of medium thickness4 ,melt butter or clarified drippings in a frying pan1 put in the potatoes sprinkled with salt and pepper and finely chopped parsley and toss over the fire till they are a fine golden brown color4 ,serve with chopped parsley4 ,salade de ,romaine4--,put crisp leaves of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed lightly with a shallot or new onion4 ,make the following dressing4 ,take one hard-boiled egg and mash it as finely as possible with a fork1 add a little paprika1 a pinch of salt1 half a teaspoonful of ,french mustard1 a teaspoonful of hashed chives1 the same of hashed tarragon1 two tablespoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar4 ,add this to the romaine1 toss well and serve4 ,souffl au ,chocolat4--,mix a small tablespoonful of starch with a gill of milk and when quite smooth add two ounces of powdered sugar and two ounces of butter4 ,put the mixture into a saucepan and stir over the fire till it boils4 ,when cold stir in an ounce of grated chocolate and the yolks of two eggs4 ,beat well together till perfectly smooth1 then mix in the whites of the eggs4 ,pour into a buttered souffle dish and bake for forty minutes4 ,,xx ,,menu ,potage ,gourmet ,eglefin la ,matre d',htel ,pommes de ,terre1 ,casserole ,salade de ,tomates et de ,laitue ,canards ,sauvages1 ,sauce ,orange ,souffl au ,citron ,potage ,gourmet4--,pour into a saucepan about a quart of the water in which potatoes have been boiled1 add a small amount of cold chicken cut in small dice1 two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice1 two tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas and one truffle cut into dice1 also pepper and salt1 along with one or two whole cloves4 ,bring to a boil1 allow to simmer for fifteen minutes1 and serve4 ,eglefin la ,matre d',htel4--,cut a cleaned haddock open at the back on each side of the bone1 dust with pepper and salt1 dip in flour1 place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for about twenty minutes1 turning carefully from time to time4 ,remove from the fire1 place two ounces of butter on the back of the fish1 place it in the oven to melt the butter1 then1 put the fish on a hot platter and sprinkle with mince parsley and lemon juice1 the latter heated4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,casserole4--,boil a pound or two of potatoes1 drain and mash and make into a stiff paste by adding butter and milk together with a little salt4 ,form into a casserole1 put on a dish1 make an opening in the top1 brown in the oven and serve4 ,salade de ,tomates et ,laitue4--,split the white leaves of lettuce into quarters and place in a bowl4 ,cut tomatoes into thin slices and place over the lettuce4 ,season with a sauce made of one part of vinegar1 two of oil1 a little salt and pepper4 ,pour the sauce over just before serving4 ,canards ,sauvages1 ,sauce ,orange4--,roast two wild ducks over a brisk fire1 having them underdone1 more or less1 according to taste4 ,baste all the time they are cooking with butter and the juice of lemon and serve with the following sauce4 ,shred finely the rind of two oranges and parboil in a little water4 ,melt an ounce of butter and stir into it a dessertspoonful of flour moistened with a little water4 ,stir well over the fire and then add the juice of the two oranges1 some very clear gravy1 flavor with pepper and salt and cayenne1 then add the parboiled orange rind4 ,let the sauce boil and keep hot till wanted4 ,souffl au ,citron4--,put three egg yolks and three ounces of powdered sugar into a basin with the grated rind of a lemon and a half and stir till quite thick4 ,add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice and then1 quickly1 the well beaten whites of the three eggs4 ,pour into a pie dish and bake in a medium oven for twenty minutes4 ,when the surface is a golden brown it is done4 ,serve immediately4 ,,xxi ,,menu ,filets de ,carrelets1 ,italienne ,pommes de ,terre1 ,loulou ,cailles ,rtis ,salade des ,tomates et d',artichauts ,vol-au-,vent1 ,chantilly ,filets de ,carrelets1 ,italienne4--,take the fillets of two firm flounders1 trim and flour each piece lightly4 ,dip in egg beaten with pepper and salt1 cover on both sides with stale breadcrumbs and fry in boiling olive oil4 ,when the fillets are a golden brown place on a sieve in front of the fire with a soft paper beneath them that they may drain4 ,serve with fried parsley and quarters of lemon4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,loulou4--,chop raw potatoes fine and place them in a saucepan with butter and a seasoning of pepper1 salt1 paprika and a trace of nutmeg4 ,cover and cook very slowly1 agitating them constantly4 ,when they become soft1 beat well and arrange a layer on a vegetable dish1 sprinkle with ,parmesan cheese1 put on another layer of potatoes1 then more cheese1 and so on1 having the top layer of cheese4 ,pour over all melted butter and bake about twenty minutes in a slow oven4 ,cailles ,rtis4--,tie a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each quail1 roast them at a clear fire for fifteen minutes1 basting frequently4 ,lay them on crisp buttered toast1 sprinkle with minced parsley1 salt and paprika1 and serve with a rich wine jelly on a separate dish4 ,salade des ,tomates et d',artichauts4--,cut the under part of boiled artichokes into slices and take the same number of slices of tomato4 ,dip both into a dressing made of olive oil1 vinegar1 tarragon1 chervil1 salt and pepper1 with a little mustard and arrange in a salad bowl4 ,pour over the remainder of the dressing and serve4 ,vol-au-,vent1 ,chantilly4--,roll a pound of puff paste to about an eighth of an inch in thickness and cut out about thirty rounds with a fluted cutter1 about two and a half inches in diameter4 ,then cut out the center of these with a cutter about an inch across4 ,roll out the paste taken from the centers and cut out more rings in the same way4 ,brush the rings over with egg1 place one on top of another1 two by two1 press together so that they will stick1 place on a baking sheet1 brush over with egg and bake in a brisk oven4 ,when almost done sprinkle with sugar and allow to remain in the oven till they are glazed and fully done4 ,remove and place on a warmed platter and fill with any sort of cream desired1 or jam or tart marmalade4 ,,xxii ,,menu ,potage ,julienne ,homard ,bordelaise ,canard la ,reine ,salade la ,russe ,caf ,bavaroise ,potage ,julienne4--,cut carrots1 onions1 leeks and turnips into thin slices or strips of equal size with a head of celery4 ,put all into two ounces of butter melted in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire for a few minutes4 ,if desired other vegetables in season such as cauliflower1 peas or asparagus may be added4 ,pour clear chicken broth over the vegetables1 put in some pieces of cold chicken1 allow to come to a boil1 then simmer till the vegetables are tender and pour the whole into the tureen with sippets of toast4 ,homard ,bordelaise4--,cut a small carrot and an onion into fine pieces and boil for five minutes in a wineglassful of red wine4 ,now add the meat from two lobsters1 cut in small pieces1 say1 about a pound and a half4 ,season with a very little pepper1 salt1 and a trace of nutmeg1 adding1 just before the lobster is cooked1 about half a pint of velout sauce4 ,stew well together and serve at once4 ,canard la ,reine4--,cut off one wing of a duck and half the breast from the same side1 remove the skin1 take out the bone and fill the place with quenelle forcemeat4 ,lard the breast and put it into a braising pan over slices of leeks1 carrots and onions and a little thyme1 chervil1 bayleaves and lemon peel4 ,add sufficient stock to prevent burning1 set the pan on the fire and braise the duck1 then glaze it4 ,serve with a pure of beans for garnish4 ,salade la ,russe4--,cut cold chicken and salmon into thin slices1 arrange in a salad dish and mix with finely cut cooked asparagus heads1 carrots and cauliflower1 a few capers and a little caviare4 ,the dressing is made with three parts of oil and one of vinegar1 a little mustard and cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of minced onion4 ,pour over the salad and stand on the ice till served4 ,caf ,bavaroise4--,grind half a pound of green coffee1 roast in a sugar boiler without burning it or even browning and soak a quart of milk with it for about an hour4 ,now stir into a cupful of flour a teaspoonful of castor sugar into which has been dropped a little vanilla extract1 and a little salt4 ,stir this all in with the strained coffee-flavored milk1 bring to a boil1 remove from the fire and stir in the yolks1 then the whites of three eggs1 all beaten firm4 ,fill paper cases with the mixture1 bake1 sprinkle castor sugar over the tops and serve at once4 ,,xxiii ,,menu ,huitres l',amricaine ,buf l',aurore ,pommes de ,terre1 ,lyonnaise ,salade ,franaise ,crme la ,russe ,huitres l',amricaine4--,place in a sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of salt1 three-quarters of a teaspoonful of white pepper1 a medium sized onion1 chopped1 and a teaspoonful of minced parsley4 ,mix lightly together along with a teaspoonful of olive oil1 six drops of tobasco sauce1 a little ,worcestershire sauce and a gill of vinegar4 ,put a teaspoonful of this mixture on each raw oyster just before taking to the table4 ,buf l',aurore4--,season two steaks of about three-quarters of a pound each 7any ordinary cut will do7 with salt and pepper1 baste on either side with a little oil and broil over a brisk fire for six minutes4 ,place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce poured over3 ,mix in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom liquor with half a pint of bechamel sauce1 half an ounce of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce4 ,place on the fire1 stir for ten minutes and just before removing add whole mushrooms cut in squares4 ,salade ,franaise4--,chop fine a bunch of parsley1 two small onions and six anchovies4 ,lay them in a bowl and mix with salt and mustard to taste1 two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a gill of vinegar4 ,stir all well together and then add1 one at a time1 some very thin strips of cold roasted or boiled meat1 not more than three or four inches long4 ,shake the slices well in the dressing4 ,cover the bowl closely and allow to stand for at least three hours4 ,serve garnished with parsley4 ,pommes de ,terre1 ,lyonnaise4--,cut into round slices eight boiled potatoes1 lay them in a frying pan with an ounce and a half of butter and the slices of a partly cooked onion4 ,season with salt and pepper and cook till the potatoes become well browned1 tossing all the while4 ,serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over4 ,crme la ,russe4--,put into a saucepan a pint of milk1 half a pound of lump sugar1 the grated rind of two lemons and an ounce of gelatine1 previously soaked in water4 ,cook till the sugar dissolves over a slow fire1 then allow the mixture to cool somewhat before stirring in the yolks of two eggs1 unbeaten4 ,place on the fire to curdle4 ,strain1 and when cool add the juice of the two lemons and the whites of the eggs beaten stiffly4 ,stir all well together and pour into a wet mould4 ,turn out when well set4 ,,xxiv ,,menu ,potage ,napolitaine ,truites la ,monbarry ,croquettes de ,pommes de ,terre ,celeri-rave en ,salade ,pouding aux ,figues ,potage ,napolitaine4--,boil in strong bouillon small forcemeat balls made of any left-over game or meat4 ,then soak croutons in the same bouillon4 ,add the forcemeat balls and serve4 ,truites la ,monbarry4--,prepare several trout and lay them in a pan with a quarter pound of butter and some strong spices4 ,allow to heat slowly in an open oven and when the butter is entirely melted1 drop on the trout two well beaten yolks of eggs4 ,grate cheese over this and cover all with a quantity of fine breadcrumbs4 ,brown lightly in a hot oven and serve4 ,croquettes de ,pommes de ,terre4--,boil and drain about two and a half pounds of potatoes4 ,add a generous quantity of butter1 yolks of two eggs1 salt and pepper and the white of the eggs beaten to a snow4 ,beat the whole up briskly1 shape the mixture into balls and fry in a pan4 ,celeri-rave en ,salade4--,trim carefully a bunch of celery1 leaving on as much of the root as possible4 ,cut in half and boil in salted water till tender4 ,then trim into even sticks and season it very piquantly with ,french mustard1 a few young onions1 pepper1 salt and finely chopped parsley4 ,garnish with lettuce-leaves and slices of beet4 ,pouding aux ,figues4--,mix in a large bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs1 half a cup of farina1 a pinch of salt1 a cup of suet1 cut fine1 a cup of powdered sugar1 a minced carrot and a cup and a half of chopped figs4 ,grease a baking mould1 line it with whole figs1 and empty the mixture into it4 ,cook for four hours1 the pan standing in water4 ,serve hot with a rum sauce4 ,,let ,,us ,,eat ,,fish ,a ,,famous ,,french ,,luncheon ,l',,am,,ricaine ,only in the ,latin countries has fish as an edible ever been fully appreciated and1 as is the case with most other things gastronomic1 it is in ,france that the food possibilities of the denizens of the water have been brought nearest perfection4 ,over here we have always seemed to regard fish as useful chiefly for stocking aquariums or for furnishing sport for the vacationist1 along with golf1 tennis and bowling4 ,true1 we have become rather well acquainted with certain sea foods1 the oysters1 ,blue ,points and ,cape ,cods2 we have a nodding acquaintance with some of the clam clan1 especially the ,rhode ,island branch1 and the ,little ,necks1 the blue bloods of the family4 ,and1 of course1 we are familiar with the crustaceans1 the lobsters and the crabs4 ,and we know1 too1 certain succulent sea delicacies that come to us from ,palm ,beach shores and ,california and ,oregon regions1 tuna and halibut1 bluefish and salmon as it comes to us variously prepared for the table4 ,in short1 we ,americans are fairly friendly with a number of the aristocrats of the water1 but on analyzing the situation we come to realize that as for knowing the finny tribe as a whole well enough to get complete gastronomic joy out of the situation1 it remains that it is only the ,french people who are so blessed4 ,time and the hour and the high price of meat1 however1 render it advisable1 even absolutely necessary1 that we work all our resources instead of only a part of them1 to economize whenever and wherever we can1 and the waters in our midst and around us are surely one of the most important resources not already worked to the limit4 ,therefore1 let us eat fish--but first let us learn of the ,french about fish1 even as we have learned of them concerning other foods1 or as we have learned fashions1 for1 verily1 the turning out of a proper fish dish for the table has ever been regarded by the ,french as no less an art than the creation of a beautiful frock in one of their ateliers4 ,moreover1 their ways with fish are so broadly inclusive that one may make up an entire menu from one end to the other1 with only a cup of coffee needed as a final fillip to make a perfect meal--and all of fish4 ,by way of furnishing inspiration to our own appetites1 herewith is a suggestion for a fish luncheon1 a favorite menu of ,france1 which its wealth and fashion delighted to have set before it in those good old days before the war4 ,substitutes are given for any fish not indigenous to ,american waters2 otherwise it is just as it would be served at one of the ,riviera restaurants1 with the exception1 of course1 that on the ,riviera or at any of the noted marine restaurants1 the visitor himself was permitted to select the fish for each course from among the different specimens swimming in the reserves1 altogether unconscious of impending fate4 ,no ,french restauranteur worthy the name ever kept dead fish in stock1 for nothing deteriorates so quickly4 ,there is rarely over here the natural reserve that the ,riviera takes as a matter of course1 although there is1 in some restaurants1 the tank of running water in which the fish are kept in condition till required4 ,,an ,,all ,,fish ,,luncheon ,,menu ,hors d'uvres4 ,little ,necks or ,blue ,points4 7,at ,monte ,carlo one would be served ,clovisses47 ,lobster with ,sauce ,piquante4 7,a substitute for the ,french langouste1 which is similar to a giant lobster minus the two long nippers4 ,or there might be served abroad for this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion1 or sea-hedgehog1 or perhaps nonnots1 smaller and more delicate than our own whitefish47 ,french ,sardines ,grilled1 or ,shad ,planked4 7,shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the ,french restauranteur's delight--loup de mer47 ,flounder1 ,sauce ,meunire1 or ,shrimps4 7,in ,dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both specialties and are served at this juncture1 but little sole is being received here and our own flounder answers requirements admirably4 ,shrimps1 too1 will please an ,american palate fully as well as the crevettes47 ,bouillabaisse4 7,this1 for which we have no nearer synonym than fish stew1 which is a libel1 is the pice de rsistance of the luncheon4 ,it is probably the most famous fish dish of ,france47 ,salade de ,poisson with ,aioli4 7,aioli is a ,mediterranean mayonnaise and the dressing1 the ,french say1 is the soul of the salad47 ,it will be noted that there is no dessert given with the above menu1 but the repast may be gracefully topped off with crackers and cheese and caf noir4 ,tea is never served with fish1 as the tannin is said to render fish particularly indigestible4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,the ,,luncheon ,the ,french disdain the pepper1 horseradish and tomato mixtures with which we are wont to dress raw oysters1 preferring to get the full coppery taste peculiar to their home product1 but the ,american oyster1 even these artists of the culinary department agree1 requires a dressing to bring out the flavor4 ,as for the clovisse1 which is1 by the way1 first cousin to our clam1 it is eaten from the shell1 each clovisse being opened immediately before being disposed of4 ,lobster as here served to take the place of the ,french langouste1 tastes much like deviled lobster4 ,the sauce piquante is made as follows3 ,into a saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion with a little salt1 grated nutmeg1 black pepper and an ounce of butter4 ,when this melts and blends add a little chopped red pepper along with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a teaspoonful of mustard4 ,stir together well1 then mix in half an ounce of flour and half a pint of fish stock4 ,simmer for half an hour1 skimming occasionally and1 finally add a chopped pickled gherkin4 ,sauce ,meunire1 served with the sole1 or1 in this case with the flounder1 is made by adding a few shrimps and mussels1 minced1 to a pint of white wine in a saucepan1 along with a cupful of minced mushrooms1 a teaspoonful of butter1 salt and pepper and three or four cloves4 ,simmer for twenty minutes and pour over the fish just before serving4 ,salade de ,poisson1 ,aioli1 is made by taking any cold fish1 say salmon1 with this menu4 ,it is flaked and marinaded in oil and vinegar seasoned well with pepper and salt4 ,allow to remain for an hour or so1 then remove and arrange compactly in a salad bowl4 ,the aioli1 the ,mediterranean delicacy with which it is served1 is made by whipping two eggs1 four teaspoonfuls of olive oil1 a half teaspoonful of ,french mustard and a half cupful of cream together till stiff1 in a bowl rubbed with garlic4 ,heap this on the center of the fish4 ,as for the ,bouillabaisse1 it is like our own ,welsh ,rabbit in so far as hardly any two persons make it alike4 ,here are two recipes which gastronomic authorities have accorded the meed of highest praise3 ,no4 #a4--;,cut into pieces and remove the bones from three pounds of fish2 say one pound each of cod1 halibut and bluefish1 though any fish of like nature will do4 ,to these add the cooked meat of one lobster or two crabs1 and six shrimps and put all into a casserole in half a pint or more of olive oil to cook1 adding one lemon1 sliced1 two tomatoes1 one onion1 one sliced carrot1 a bunch of saffron1 a bunch of parsley1 a bayleaf and a clove of garlic--or have the casserole rubbed with the garlic4 ,cook for ten minutes1 stirring frequently1 then add one cup of soup stock and a glass of wine or cider4 ,cook for fifteen minutes longer1 remove to a hot bowl1 line the casserole with slices of toast1 and pour back the bouillabaisse4 ,serve at once4 ,no4 #b4--,place the pieces of fish to any desired amount in a large saucepan1 add two or three sliced onions1 one or two sliced carrots1 three shallots1 two cloves of garlic1 a bunch of thyme and parsley1 three or four cloves1 two bayleaves1 half a teaspoonful of capsicum1 a wine-glass of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste4 ,pour over the above mixture two quarts of water and boil gently for half an hour1 the pan covered4 ,drain and lay on a hot dish4 ,then mix a teaspoonful of saffron in the liquid1 pass through a strainer into a soup tureen4 ,serve the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast4 ,,fish ,,la ,,marseilles ,the ,french have another fish dish which1 like bouillabaisse1 is practically a meal in itself and which in these days should be better known to the ,american table4 ,it is a specialty in the vicinity of ,marseilles and made there1 of course1 with fish peculiar to the home waters1 but ,m4 ,auguste ,gay1 ,chef of the ,yale ,club1 ,new ,york1 who1 incidentally1 has probably given more attention to the adaptation of ,french cookery to ,american requirements than any other chef1 is authority for the statement that the following recipe produces an almost perfect substitute for the ,french dish3 ,chop into fine bits a small sweet ,chile pepper and toss it about in a saucepan over the fire with a third of a cupful of olive oil or butter4 ,when hot add a cupful of okra and the same amount of stewed fresh or canned tomatoes4 ,cook fifteen minutes and add a full cupful of cooked fresh fish--cod1 haddock1 etc41 and a half cupful of flaked salt fish1 mackerel1 for instance4 ,cover and cook for twenty minutes longer and serve with water crackers4 ,,general ,,considerations ,one secret of the ,french cook's superiority to the ,american in preparing fish is that the former has almost a congenital knowledge of his subject4 ,to him all fish is not just fish4 ,he differentiates sharply as to species1 tempering his treatment to varied requirements4 ,roughly1 there are two classes of fish3 those which have dark flesh or flesh with a pinkish tone which is streaked with fat1 and those which have white1 firm flesh and are the more digestible4 ,best known in the first class are shad1 butterfish1 bluefish1 salmon1 mackerel and sturgeon1 and in the second1 cod1 halibut1 flounder1 trout1 rock and sea bass1 pompano1 weakfish and perch4 ,one matter-of-course rule is that no fish of whatever kind shall be allowed to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly fresh4 ,to be sure of this see that the gills are bright and shining and the flesh firm1 not readily separating from the bones4 ,that settled1 you have an almost endless choice of ways of cooking4 ,fish may be boiled1 broiled1 fried1 baked1 planked1 creamed1 steamed1 cooked en casserole1 jellied or pickled1 but of all these ways none produces quite the universally satisfactory results with a sizable fish that planking does1 and planking is not more difficult or expensive than other methods4 ,all that is required in the way of accoutrements is a half-inch-thick hardwood board which is heated in advance in the oven when planked fish is to figure on the menu4 ,then having thoroughly cleaned the fish1 removed its head and tail1 split it up the back half through the bone so that it will open out flat1 brush it with butter and season with pepper and salt1 place it skin-side down on the board4 ,put it in the oven and when it is done1 which can be easily ascertained by lifting a bit of the flesh1 you1 being ,american1 may garnish the board with mashed and seasoned potatoes1 set the board back in the oven till the potatoes are browned and serve4 ,the ,french1 on taking the cooked fish from the oven1 merely brush it with a little oil or melted butter1 squeeze some lemon juice over1 sprinkle a few bits of parsley about1 and send the fish thus to the table4 ,small fish1 such as perch1 smelts1 etc41 are best fried in deep fat or its substitute1 first being dipped in egg and rolled in fine cracker or breadcrumbs1 then served with a ,sauce ,mousseline1 mashed potatoes or boiled new ones1 and a crisp salad4 ,this ,sauce ,mousseline is made by beating two eggs in a saucepan1 adding a cupful of top milk1 butter the size of a walnut and pepper and salt1 then stirring over the fire till it begins to thicken4 ,when of the proper consistency1 add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is ready for the table4 ,a tart sauce for boiled fish that is much favored in the south of ,france but which1 if it has ever crossed the water1 has kept its arrival very quiet1 is quite simply made and will be much liked as a decided change4 ,to make it dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered mustard in a half cupful of fish stock and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar by preference1 though other vinegar will do4 ,let this come to a boil1 add two or three slices of lemon and boil a few minutes longer4 ,take from the fire and add two eggs that have been beaten with a teaspoonful of water4 ,season with salt and pepper and heat again but do not allow to boil4 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,the following is a list of corrections made to the original4 ,the first line is the original line1 the second the corrected one4 vinegars1 ,worchestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a vinegars1 ,worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a left of the morn ng cereal except to the advantage of some later made left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsely and chives1 or over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives1 or a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonsfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 fish1 cover in the kettle with cold water and1 plenty of salt4 ,bring fish1 cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt4 ,bring and moisten with hot water1 then add a few drops of vinegar a dash of and moisten with hot water1 then add a few drops of vinegar1 a dash of on each side of the bone1 duct with pepper and salt1 dip in flour1 on each side of the bone1 dust with pepper and salt1 dip in flour1 parsely1 salt and paprika1 and serve with a rich wine jelly on a parsley1 salt and paprika1 and serve with a rich wine jelly on a please an ,american palate fully as well as the crevettes4 please an ,american palate fully as well as the crevettes47 say1 is the soul of the salad4 say1 is the soul of the salad47