,,taxidermy ,,by ,,leon ,l4 ,,pray ,illustrated ,illustration3 ,,outing ,,handbooks ,number #dg ,illustration ,,new ,,york ,,outing ,,publishing ,,company ,,mcmxvi 99 99 99 99 99 ,,copyright1 #aiac1 ,,by ,,outing ,,publishing ,,company ,all rights reserved 99 99 99 99 99 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,,tools ,,and ,,materials #i ,,ii4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,bird #ai ,,iii4 ,,skinning1 ,,preparing1 ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,mammal #de ,,iv4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,,game ,,fishes ,,and ,,small ,,reptiles #fe ,v4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,virginia ,,deer ,,head #hg ,,vi4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,coyote #ajg ,,tools ,,and ,,materials ,,taxidermy ,,chapter ,i ,,tools ,,and ,,materials ,the art of taxidermy1 with its many methods of application1 has furnished subject-matter for numerous books1 most of these treating the subject in exhaustive style1 being written primarily for students who desire to take up the work as a profession4 ,it is the present author's purpose to set forth herein a series of practical methods suited to the needs of the sportsman-amateur who desires personally to preserve trophies and specimens taken on days spent afield with gun or rod4 ,the lover of field and gun may spend many fascinating hours at his bench1 preparing1 setting up1 and finishing specimens of his own taking4 ,besides1 the pursuit of this art will afford an amount of remuneration to the amateur who takes it up in a commercial way1 doing work for others who have neither the time nor inclination for preparing their own specimens4 ,the chief requisites for the beginner in taxidermy are joy in working out detail and a moderate amount of patience4 ,as suitable tools are the primary consideration in contemplating any work in taxidermy1 a simple list follows4 ,in this list no heavier work than the mounting of a ,virginia deer head is dealt with4 ,this outfit will be found practical for general light use3 ,a pocket-knife1 one or two small scalpels1 a kitchen paring-knife1 an oil stone and can of oil1 a hand drill1 a fine fur-comb1 one bone scraper1 one small skin-scraper1 one pair tinners' shears1 one pair five and one-half inch diagonal wire cutters1 one pair 7same length7 ,bernard combination wire cutter and pliers1 one pair small scissors1 two or three assorted flat files1 one hollow handle tool holder with tools and little saw1 one good hand-saw1 one hack-saw1 one upholsterer's regulator1 one pair fine tweezers 7such as jewelers use71 one claw hammer1 an assortment of round and furriers' needles1 one or two darning needles1 a sack needle1 and an assortment of artists' small bristle and sable brushes 7both round and flat74 ,make your own stuffing rods1 out of any size iron wire1 by hammering flat one end of a suitable length1 filing teeth into the flat face thus made1 and then bending a loop handle on the other end4 ,this type of rod is easily curved or straightened to suit every need4 ,those not wishing to buy at once the complete outfit named above will find that they can do good small work to start on with the aid of a pocket-knife1 a pair of scissors1 a pair of ,bernard combination wire cutter and pliers1 needles and thread1 cord1 a pair of tweezers1 a hammer and saw1 and small drill set4 ,suitable materials follow the tools in order4 ,arsenic is needed for the preservation of all specimens against moths4 ,this is most effective when used in solution1 which is made as follows3 ,first dampen the arsenic powder with alcohol to saturate it quickly1 when water is added4 ,place the arsenic in a large metal pail and to one-half pound of the powder add two gallons of water4 ,boil hard and steady over a good fire until the arsenic is completely dissolved4 ,place the solution thus made in an earthenware jar with closed cover1 plainly marked ,poison1 and keep out of reach of children4 ,allow solution to cool before applying to skins4 ,do not use the pail that the solution was made in for anything else4 ,when using arsenic-water grease your hands with a little tallow1 rubbing well under and around finger-nails and wiping the hands partially dry so that none of the grease will soil fur or feathers4 ,this precaution will keep the arsenic from entering your skin4 ,wash the hands with soap powder and a nail brush after work4 ,apply arsenic-water with a brush1 or a cotton-and-wire swab1 to all inner surfaces of specimen skins4 ,carbolic acid 7best to procure ,u4 ,s4 ,p4 pure crystals if possible7 is needed for use in dilute form for relaxing dried skins4 ,this prevents decay and does not injure the specimen skin4 ,a few drops of the dissolved crystal to a quart of water is sufficient4 ,keep carefully labeled and in a safe place4 ,following is a list of the materials needed for general light work3 ,a quantity of fine excelsior1 fine tow and cotton batting1 a quantity of various sizes of galvanized soft steel wire1 an assortment of colored1 enameled artificial eyes 7procure a taxidermist's supply-house catalog and from this order your special tools and sizes and colors of eyes needed71 a jar of liquid cement1 dry glue 7for melting up for papier-mache71 dry paper pulp1 plaster of paris1 ,venetian turpentine1 boiled linseed oil1 boracic acid1 some refined beeswax1 a little balsam-fir1 white varnish1 turpentine1 alcohol1 benzine and a student's palette of tube oil colors 7such as vermilion1 rose madder1 burnt sienna1 yellow ochre1 cadmium yellow middle1 zinc white1 cobalt blue1 ,french ultramarine ,blue1 and ,viridian74 ,plastic compositions of papier-mache are essential1 especially in mammal and game-head work1 for properly finishing the details of ears1 face1 and feet of specimens after the body has been filled4 ,these are applied partly as a last detail before mounting and partly after the figure is set up4 ,compo4 ,no4 ,i is practical for all-around use4 ,take one-third hot melted glue and two-thirds flour paste 7thick and thoroughly cooked74 ,to this add a little boracic acid1 a little arsenic powder1 a very little of ,venetian turpentine1 a quantity of gray building-paper pulp 7soak paper and squeeze and beat up even and then squeeze water out74 ,to furnish a body to this mass1 stir in dry white lead until middling thick4 ,beat the whole well together4 ,when carried so far this compo4 is a powerful adhesive medium and may be employed to stick tanned deer scalps to mannikins1 and ear skin of same to the lead cartilages4 ,compo4 ,no4 ,,ii is ,no4 ,i with fine plaster of paris added until of the consistency of modeling clay or a trifle stiffer4 ,this makes it ready for filling ear butts1 eye sockets1 noses1 and feet for modeling into permanent shape4 ,sets by drying4 ,compo4 ,no4 ,,iii is for monkey faces1 vulture heads1 lizards1 turtles1 etc4 ,this composition dries very slowly and must be touched up now and then while drying1 to preserve the details without warping4 ,when dry it is like stone and holds the skin firmly4 ,take gray paper-pulp1 hot melted glue 7quantity according to amount of compo4 needed71 a little boracic acid 7to prevent decay of glue71 boiled linseed oil 7fifty per cent4 less than glue71 a little arsenic powder 7to prevent dermestes from eating into work71 and to this mass add whiting until desired stiffness for modeling under skin is obtained4 ,beat and rub to an even smoothness and stop adding whiting at point where compo4 is thick but still very sticky4 ,rub some of the compo4 into inner surface of skin to be finished with it or skin will not take hold of mannikin or compo4 to stay4 ,after modeling is finished under the skin apply linseed oil on outside and repeat this application several times during the period of drying4 ,watch and remodel details if any distortion attends the drying process4 ,fine fleshy wrinkles and skin details can be worked out with this compo4 ,it will hold a thin raw skin where it is put1 but is not practical under fur or feathers4 ,compo4 ,no4 ,,iv may be used with wire netting or rough board as a base for making earth bases1 imitation rock stands1 etc4 ,take one-third hot melted glue1 two-thirds flour paste1 a quantity of paper pulp1 a small amount of boiled linseed oil1 a very little of ,venetian turpentine1 boracic acid1 and arsenic4 ,thicken to modeling consistency with plaster of paris1 coloring by adding some dry raw umber or lamp black and burnt umber4 ,surface the bases made of this compo4 by pressing sand1 gravel1 or forest mold into the face and when dry shake off the loose material4 ,touch up with tube colors1 as desired1 and when this is dry apply a very thin varnish and turpentine finish to bring out a natural damp look4 ,a foreword as to care of mountable specimens in the field may save a great amount of cleaning of mussed skins in the shop4 ,all shot or bullet holes should be immediately plugged with cotton when specimens are taken4 ,take a little cotton along in your hunting coat for this purpose4 ,in birds plug also the mouth1 nostrils1 and vent to prevent escape of juices into plumage4 ,a small sharpened twig will serve to place the plugs4 ,slip the bird head first into a paper cone for carrying4 ,mussed or blood-stained specimens should not necessarily be discarded4 ,look them over first4 ,many such specimens may be cleaned very easily and come out in the finish as nearly perfect as others that appeared much better at the start4 ,illustration ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,bird ,,chapter ,,ii ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,bird ,with tools and materials assembled and table in readiness1 we come to the real work and1 in the order of things1 will address the preparing and mounting of a fresh bird specimen4 ,to many people of long experience in the art of taxidermy this task never ceases to be a delightful operation1 one of the pleasantest of many interesting bits of work that may result from a day spent afield4 ,figuratively1 the specimen lies before us1 upon the bench4 ,make it any native bird your fancy desires4 ,the following notes will be found to cover the ground3 ,a pencil and a sheet of wrapping paper will first be brought into service4 ,with these make outlines of the specimen1 top and side views1 laying the bird upon the paper and drawing the pencil around it while looking straight down upon it4 ,after the skinning1 outline the body1 top1 and side views1 upon same sheet1 with position of shoulder joint1 hip joint1 knee1 and tail marked in black spots4 ,this system of wrapping paper sketches will be found of great value in all work1 from mounting a bird to setting up a deer head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,to begin skinning1 lay the bird upon a newspaper1 head to left of you1 on the bench4 ,have cornmeal handy4 ,part the belly and breast feathers up middle4 ,with a scalpel make an incision 7see ,fig4 #a7 from within one inch of front end of breast bone back to a quarter-inch forward of the vent in large birds1 and to the vent in small ones4 ,use care not to cut through abdominal wall1 which is usually very thin and may easily be confused as a part of the skin1 being closely bound to it4 ,the two are easily separated1 however4 ,the primary incision made1 lift an edge of the skin with finger and thumb nail and carefully tear skin free from body1 using scalpel when necessary to help4 ,when thigh of a leg is exposed1 take hold of leg outside of skin and push knee forward so it is uncovered inside of skin4 ,sever knee joint with scalpel or scissors1 using care not to cut through skin on outside of joint4 ,repeat on other leg4 ,apply cornmeal or fine sawdust if blood or juice starts4 ,next set bird on end1 tail up4 ,bend tail over backward and cut through vent lining1 tail muscles1 and vertebrae forward of the large quills4 ,use care not to cut skin around tail1 as at knee4 ,with bird still held on end1 start peeling skin down over back and sides4 ,use scalpel if skin adheres tightly4 ,when pelvis is uncovered1 if a small bird1 take rump between two forefingers and thumb of left hand2 if a large bird1 hang up on a wire hook and cord1 and skin down to shoulders4 ,press wings forward strongly to loosen joint muscles4 ,cut through one shoulder joint and then other1 going carefully as at knee and tail1 so as not to cut skin on opposite side4 ,plug with cotton or dry with meal wherever necessary to stop flowing blood4 ,next peel the neck skin down over head to bill1 pulling out ear linings when met with and using care to work close to skull when cutting eyelids free4 ,when this is done1 cut off base of skull4 ,with this the skin is free from the body and inside out4 ,if the specimen is of a species with neck skin too small to peel over the head1 turn head and neck back right side out when neck is only partly skinned down4 ,make an incision from middle of back of head down nearly half length of neck1 alongside where nape is bare of feathers4 ,through this incision turn and clean the head4 ,with the skin removed1 turn attention to details of cleaning away leg1 wing1 and tail muscles1 removing eyes1 brain1 and jaw muscles from skull and scraping out whatever fat is in the skin4 ,to clean leg bones1 skin out the thick1 meaty shins1 using thumb nail and scalpel to aid where necessary1 down to heel joint or upper end of tarsus4 ,just above this joint sever the tendons1 front and back1 and peel leg muscles off4 ,in owls skin on down the tarsus to as near foot1 or toes1 as possible and clean out tarsus muscles4 ,in large birds1 next split ball of foot1 insert point of a steel spindle under base of tarsus tendons beside hind toe and draw these cords out4 ,this will sometimes require a strong pull4 ,always do this after the leg above has been cleaned4 ,in small birds it is not necessary to split ball of foot nor to remove these tendons4 ,next remove the wing muscles4 ,peel skin down to elbow4 ,cut tendons free just above elbow and strip muscles off4 ,to clean forearm in a small bird1 use the thumb nail to shove skin forward toward wrist1 on front of wing1 without breaking union of large1 secondary flight feathers with wing bone4 ,with scalpel cut and lift out elbow ends of forearm muscles1 strip them out down to as near wrist as possible and cut off4 ,in a large bird1 split skin of forearm and hand along under side after carefully separating feathers over bare strips of skin4 ,peel skin back both ways and remove flesh neatly4 ,scrape out whatever flesh is in evidence on hand bones in same way4 ,in a bird with no fat adhering to the skin1 the skull and tail only remain to be cleaned in order to complete the skinning operation4 ,to clean skull1 remove eyes with a scalpel1 scrape brains out through cut-off skull base1 and trim away jaw muscles and a portion of roof of mouth4 ,to clean tail1 peel it out carefully and scrape and cut away fat and meat adhering to bone and base of quills4 ,if you have a specimen with fat adhering to the skin in more or less loose patches1 as in hawks and owls1 simply scrape or peel the fat off with a knife and thumb and finger4 ,if a fat duck skin is to be prepared the inside layer of skin over the fat tracts must be sheared off carefully with scissors and the fat then removed with a skin scraper or dull knife blade1 care being exercised not to tear the outer skin or to pull through feathers with the grease4 ,to clean and degrease a bird skin which requires such treatment to prepare for mounting1 wash it first in lukewarm ammonia water with mild soap4 ,squeeze from this washing and put through a bath of half-and-half alcohol and spirits of turpentine4 ,squeeze from this thoroughly and run through benzine4 ,compress and relax the skin repeatedly while immersed in both these baths4 ,when squeezed from the benzine1 dry the plumage by first burying the skin for some minutes in dry plaster of paris4 ,when nearly all the moisture is drawn out dust skin in the plaster until natural fluffiness is restored4 ,do this last out of doors1 where the skin may be beaten well when thoroughly dry1 to free it of plaster dust4 ,lay skin1 right side out1 over the left hand and beat with the right1 giving an occasional shaking1 the better to loosen plaster dust4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,an ,a#a duster may be made from the brush of an ox tail4 ,nail this on a short piece of broomstick and square ends of hair with scissors4 ,this duster is used instead of beating the plumage with the hand and does the work much quicker and better4 ,when the dusting is done turn the skin inside out again 7see ,fig4 #b7 and brush arsenic-water into all inner surfaces1 then turn skin right side out and brush a little of the solution upon the feet1 under side of wings1 and inside the bill4 ,when poisoning the head1 with skin inside out1 one step in preparation for mounting is to be taken4 ,after the arsenic-water is applied to skull and scalp1 fill eye sockets with chopped tow or fine excelsior1 put a light layer of cotton smoothly around the skull1 forward edge close down to bill4 ,turn skin carefully back over skull and finish poisoning skin4 ,it is best1 if possible to do without risk of decay1 to fold the freshly prepared skin in a clean paper1 wrap in damp cloth1 and lay over one night in a cool place1 before mounting4 ,this allows arsenic-water to penetrate through into base of plumage1 thus becoming more effective against moths than if skin were immediately filled with absorbent material which would tend to draw out the freshly applied solution4 ,with the skin preparation completed1 construction of an artificial body is the next step4 ,in all bird work1 upholstery excelsior or wood wool will be found most satisfactory for body making and neck1 wing1 and leg wrapping4 ,this may be found at almost any upholstery shop1 as is also tow1 a fine grade of which is needed in making bird necks1 as chopped1 soft filling1 etc4 ,a good grade of long-fiber cotton is needed for wrapping skulls and wing and leg bones in small birds1 etc4 ,various sizes of strong thread1 both black and white1 and some small1 strong1 ball twine will be needed for wrapping and sewing4 ,when making the artificial body1 lay the outline sketches before you and copy ,nature's lines throughout the work of assembling the specimen4 ,to make a firm core for the body1 take a thick wisp of excelsior twice the length of the natural body and small or large according to specimen4 ,hold this tightly in the left hand1 wrapping it very hard with thread or cord4 ,wrap the squeezed excelsior where it protrudes from between thumb and forefinger of left hand1 drawing cord tight at each round1 paying out the wisp until all is wrapped hard 7see ,fig4 #c74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,now double this stick of excelsior in the middle and bind it together tightly4 ,this forms a solid core the length of the body4 ,the body is finished around this base by firmly binding upon it wisps or handfuls of loose excelsior until the shape of the natural body is approximated4 ,to be correct this form should appear oval from side view and pear-shaped from end view 7see ,fig4 #d74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,all body wrapping must be firm so that wires set in it will not be loose and cause the specimen to wobble4 ,next cut the neck1 wing1 and leg wires4 ,cut neck wire three times natural length1 wing wires twice natural length1 and leg wires three times natural length4 ,in the neck use a size wire that will support the head firmly and still be easy to manipulate4 ,if the wings are to be closed1 use light wire in them4 ,if to be spread1 use strong wire to support with no wobbling4 ,in the legs use as large wire as will go easily through the tarsus and not rip the skin open1 to insure rigidity in the finished specimen4 ,use galvanized soft steel wires if possible4 ,if ordinary black iron wire is used it should be waxed before placing4 ,for the tail cut one wire of a length to go half way through the body and leave enough protruding to allow of handily setting tail into position4 ,cut six or eight medium wires1 twice length of thickness of body1 for wing pinning and feather wrapping1 if either or both of these are found necessary4 ,make cornered points on wires4 ,sharpen neck- and wing-wires at both ends1 leg1 tail1 and pinning-wires at one end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,to set neck-wire in body1 thrust it in a little above center of larger end of body1 run it diagonally through and out at middle back 7see ,fig4 #e74 ,push two-thirds its length out of back1 loop one-third back along its own length and push it back through body so that both ends protrude1 shorter end beneath other in front4 ,bend the short end squarely and force it into front of body to anchor neck-wire firmly in place4 ,consult note sketch and wrap a soft neck of natural size upon the wire 7see ,fig4 #f74 ,leave head end of neck a little bit long to set into brain cavity for solid anchorage4 ,for neck material use cotton in small birds1 tow in medium size1 and fine excelsior in large birds4 ,only excelsior will need tying down with thread or cord4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,to make cords in nape of neck1 which support the mane1 thread a large sewing needle with heavy thread for small birds1 a darning needle with string for larger4 ,double the cord and knot its end heavily4 ,run the needle through ridge of body just back of shoulders1 carry cord to a little below where skull will set to and run cord through neck from back to front so it will protrude between jaws when they are set 7see ,fig4 #g74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,let long end of cord hang free so that it may be passed through the mouth when skull is set on neck-wire4 ,with this done1 lay aside the body4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,the next step is wiring the wings and legs and substituting muscles of same4 ,to place a wing-wire draw the wing inside out4 ,take wing bone in left hand4 ,place point of wire under small tendon that draws across back of elbow joint1 push through and up to wrist4 ,turn wing right side out and by parting feathers on under side of wrist1 locate two points of bone at joint which have a cord or tendon drawn across between them4 ,work the wire through under this4 ,the simplest way to anchor tip of wing-wire is to push it outside skin just forward of wrist1 turn a short right angle bend near its tip with pliers and carrying it forward1 push the point through a hollow pan which will be found in the hand bones 7see ,fig4 #h74 ,after a wing-wire is set1 wrap cotton1 tow1 or excelsior about the upper arm-bone to approximate shape and size of flesh removed4 ,wrap slightly with thread or cord and tie4 ,in a small bird in which the forearm was skinned out from the inside1 slip in a film of cotton or tow to replace flesh of same4 ,in a large bird in which the wing was opened along forearm and hand1 lay in a soft filling after skin is in place on artificial body and sewn up4 ,sew wing incision carefully1 beginning at body and keeping feathers out of stitch4 ,to place the leg-wires1 start sharpened end into ball of foot1 push wire upward through back of leg to hock or heel joint4 ,take leg in left hand1 keeping heel straight1 and push wire through at back of joint4 ,a little turning of the wire will aid in passing through leg easily4 ,now turn leg inside out and push wire to just beyond end of shin bone 7see ,fig4 #i74 ,slip wire rapidly back and forth in leg to make it run easily4 ,there should be no kinks in wires4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,hold wire down to back of bone and wrap on cotton1 tow1 or excelsior1 according to size of bird1 to replace flesh4 ,tie this material loosely with a few turns of thread or cord4 ,see that wing and leg wrapping is smooth and nicely tapering from elbow and heel4 ,it now remains to place the body1 set wings and legs and tail1 sew up the breast incision1 and1 if a large bird1 the wings4 ,in preparing to place the body1 take a turn of end of nape cord about tip of neck-wire and twist a wisp of cotton about them both to prevent wire catching in neck skin when passing through4 ,hold up the bird-skin by the head1 shake it out loose and rattle neck-wire up through the neck4 ,run wire out of mouth1 remove cotton and release free end of nape cord4 ,draw wire back to base of skull1 leaving nape cord hanging from mouth4 ,now push wire through brain cavity1 between eye sockets and forward out of roof of mouth inside until neck is seated in brain cavity4 ,tip of wire may have to be curved to accomplish this1 in curve-billed birds4 ,when head is set take excelsior body in right hand1 hold it with head up1 and with left hand pull shoulder skin into place4 ,now lay the bird down1 take a wing-wire and start it through the body at side of back1 one-half to one and one-half inches1 according to size of bird1 to rear of actual position of shoulder joint4 ,pull wire through on opposite side of breast4 ,when head of wing-bone is drawn down to same distance as above1 from body1 bend wire sharply forward to lay upon body1 thus setting shoulder joint so that it is flexible4 ,now turn over end of wire left protruding from side of breast and clinch it into body squarely4 ,when wings are set shake skin down over body and set legs4 ,having previously marked the hip joint with a spot of ink1 run a leg-wire through at this point1 quartering it out on opposite side where thigh will set4 ,pull wire through to a considerable length without drawing other end up into the foot4 ,loop sharp end squarely1 with long enough point to go clear through body again1 push it back through1 clinching tip down on other side4 ,now pull the knee to its proper distance from hip joint1 thus leaving bare wire for thigh bone4 ,bend thigh into place flat against side of body1 with knee at side of breast4 ,when legs are set shake and carefully pull skin of rump into place4 ,take tail-wire and push it through center of tail1 under the bone1 using care that it does not disturb tail quills4 ,push sharp end of wire into body above center and forward of end of body4 ,consult notes for actual set of tail4 ,see that wire supports tail without looseness4 7,for general details of wiring1 see ,fig4 #aj47 ,fill butt of tail and thighs with a little chopped tow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,now lay the bird upon its back4 ,turn the legs out at the sides a little1 leaving knees against body4 ,draw edges of skin together along incision and sew up with medium stitches1 neither short and labored or long and slouchy4 ,begin at rump end of incision4 ,in a bird in which the neck was opened to accommodate skinning the head1 sew up this incision carefully1 beginning at body end and sewing toward head4 ,when a large bird1 in which the wings were opened for cleaning1 is to be mounted with closed wings1 very little sewing need be done1 but if the wings are to be raised or spread the incision should be neatly stitched its entire length4 ,also in a large bird1 in which the tendons were drawn through ball of foot1 the fatty tissue of the ball should be replaced with chopped tow and the short incision sewn up4 ,beeswax will keep thread from fraying4 ,with the sewing all done1 bend the legs into semi-position1 fold the wings1 if to be closed1 and turn them sharply up over the back so that their under side is outward and elbows meet over center of back4 ,shake out the plumage a little by grasping the feet4 ,drill the perch and mount the bird upon it4 ,position the legs1 body1 and head1 and set the tail as per ,nature1 to suit the position4 ,adjust the plumage a little with tweezers4 ,compress the wings loosely to the sides4 ,if there is an unnatural hollowness between the shoulders1 lift the mane and at one side of it where the skin is bare1 make a short longitudinal incision4 ,through this place a little soft filling over and between the shoulders to fill out hollowness4 ,it is not necessary to sew up this incision in a long feathered specimen4 ,now settle down to the fascinating task of adjusting the feather tracts1 nicely manipulating the plumage1 in places feather by feather1 until characteristic markings of the species are brought out in their normal position as though the bird had just ruffled and then allowed the feathers to settle back softly4 ,jewelers' tweezers are the finest thing to be had for this work4 ,return to the head4 ,pull the nape cord taut and tie it to neck-wire in roof of mouth4 ,cut off the wire within the mouth so that the mandibles close naturally4 ,tie the bill shut with cord or thread4 ,it is necessary in many specimens to thread the cord through the nostrils to accomplish this4 ,to set the eyes1 wipe a drop of liquid glue into the cotton of the eye sockets and inside the lids1 using a bit of wire for the purpose4 ,set the eyes with regard to expression to suit the position1 picking the lids over their edges with needle and tweezers4 ,pin1 or tie with thread1 the toes to grasp the perch4 ,cut two pieces of thin cardboard for the tail4 ,curve them slightly4 ,place one over and one under the long quills just clear of the coverts and pin them through in two or three places to hold the quills even until dry4 ,in mounting a specimen with spread wings1 card the flight feathers full length with curved strips1 same as tail1 then run a long sharpened wire into the body under each wing and lay a loose bunch of cotton over it1 under the quills1 to raise them and hold in proper position until dry4 ,to wrap the body feathers for keeping place until dry1 stick two or three long pins in back and breast1 along center of both4 ,these hold the light wrapping of thread from slipping out of place as it goes on4 ,lay the thread around the specimen lightly4 ,if the wings do not set right without other aid than the wire already in them1 pin them with sharpened wires1 one through the double bone just forward of the wrist and one through close forward of the elbow1 running wires firmly into the body4 7,for general details see ,fig4 #aa47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,to soak up a dried bird skin for preparation to mount1 the simplest and quickest means is immersion in a weak solution of carbolic acid in water1 leaving for a day or two until tissues are soft4 ,when the skin is relaxed so that wings and legs may be manipulated without breaking1 squeeze water from it and follow same method given for cleaning a fresh skin4 ,with this treatment a good dry skin will come out as soft and workable as a fresh one4 ,arsenic and grease burnt skins are hard to get much out of4 ,to make up dry bird skins for keeping to mount at a future time1 follow regular method of thorough skinning and cleaning4 ,apply dry arsenic powder to inner surfaces4 ,wrap skull1 wing1 and leg bones lightly with cotton or tow4 ,turn skin right side out and push a neck and light body filling of fiber that will allow ventilation1 into place4 ,arrange the plumage and hang the skin up by a thread or cord sewn through neck at base of skull4 ,to make a cabinet skin for study purposes1 roll a neat body and neck of material to suit size of bird1 place it inside the skin1 stitch incision together1 plug eye sockets with cotton1 tie the elbows together on the body with a loop sewn through the back1 tie bill shut1 adjust feathers neatly and lay the specimen in a hollowed bed made of a piece of wire netting bent to size4 ,see that wings cover back neatly4 ,lay head of short necked bird out straight1 neck somewhat shorter than natural1 and of long necked specimen along right side1 looped to body with cord sewn through neck and side4 ,cross the feet and tie with a tag bearing complete data as to locality1 date1 sex1 etc41 with collector's name4 ,to determine sex of a bird specimen1 open the abdomen under thigh4 ,testes of male will be found under fore end of pelvis and are white1 in young bird1 very small4 ,now when the period of drying is past1 return to the mounted bird for finishing touches4 ,with scissors cut the thread feather wrappings4 ,pull out pins in back and breast and cut off wing pinning-wires flush under the plumage4 ,if the specimen was primarily mounted on a rough temporary perch1 remove to the finished permanent stand and color legs and fleshy1 exposed parts of face skin to natural hues with tube oil colors and a soft brush4 ,thin the color for this purpose with a little turpentine and a very little touch of varnish4 ,in all work in taxidermy1 practice develops deftness and a personal system of handling the details that cannot be brought about except by sympathetic attention to the art4 ,the work is not difficult when the details are addressed with quiet thought and very little main strength4 ,illustration ,,skinning1 ,,preparing1 ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,mammal ,,chapter ,,iii ,,skinning1 ,,preparing1 ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,mammal ,we will choose a gray squirrel as our subject in this chapter1 as this little rodent has a tough skin that is easily manipulated4 ,a cottontail rabbit might be more easy to procure1 but is not so satisfactory for the purpose of initiative steps in this work1 as his skin is extremely delicate and requires especially careful handling in preparation and mounting4 ,now1 in beginning work upon the small mammal specimen1 make outline studies of it in same way the bird specimen was handled1 i4 e41 both before and after skinning4 ,when the preliminary surface sketches are completed1 replace the wrapping paper used for the purpose1 with newspaper1 cornmeal at hand1 and proceed with the skinning4 ,have scalpel or skinning-knife well sharpened4 ,lay head of specimen toward right4 ,part fur over center of breast bone1 insert point of knife just under skin1 forcing backward1 and with as near one clean stroke as possible open the skin neatly along center of abdomen4 ,do not cut the abdominal wall4 ,carry belly incision to close to the vent4 ,in male specimen run the incision to one side of the testes4 ,next insert point of knife in fore center of pad or feet and paws and with a gentle push carry these incisions upon back of wrists and inside of ankles to where swell of large muscles is felt4 ,in mammals the size of woodchuck or raccoon1 split toes on under side4 ,if a mammal skin is to be kept for some time1 dried or in brine1 split the tail full length along under side4 ,if tail skin slips easily and the specimen is to be mounted at once1 pull the tail out1 splitting only the very tip to allow arsenic solution to be run through4 ,in many species the tail must be split and peeled out with a knife because of tough binding4 7,for general diagram of incisions1 see ,fig4 #ab47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,the next step in handily skinning a mammal is to peel out the feet through their incisions1 severing toes at base and leaving them complete in the skin4 ,peel the leg skins back over ankles and wrists 7see ,fig4 #ac74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,if tail was split1 peel it down next1 beginning at tip4 ,now return to the abdominal incision and neatly peel the skin from the body1 in many instances using only the thumb nail for loosening it4 ,when the thighs are encountered1 bend hind legs back and sever hip joints from pelvis 7see ,fig4 #ac71 cutting carefully through the large muscles so that the skin on opposite side of them may not be punctured4 ,when the hind legs are cut free1 peel around back of pelvis1 loosening skin to base of tail4 ,set the specimen upon its head end and1 with thumb and finger nails of left hand1 grasp skin about the base of tail while with right hand strip tail out with force4 ,next peel the body down to shoulders4 ,hang large specimen up by cord tied about loins1 the more handily to finish the skinning4 ,sever the forelegs at shoulder joint 7see ,fig4 #ad71 using care not to cut through skin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,peel skin down over neck to ears4 ,cut ears free from head1 working with knife close to skull4 ,peel to eyes4 ,in cutting the eyelids free1 work close to eyeballs so that lids are not injured4 ,peel to mouth and cut close to jaw bones in severing lips and nose from skull 7see ,fig4 #ae74 ,with the skin removed from the body1 next peel out the legs4 ,split inside of lips free with sharp knife1 very carefully1 so as not to break edge of them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,with scissors shear out all mouth and nose meat1 being careful not to cut off the whisker pockets1 which are usually very prominent when the side nose muscles are partly sheared off4 ,skin out the backs of the ears clear to edges by pressing a finger tip inside the ear and peeling over this with finger nail or other dull instrument4 ,with scissors shear off meat of butt of ear and whatever meat and fat adheres to rest of skin4 ,in sketches of skinned body mark points of shoulder joint and hip joint and note width of pelvis at hip joints4 ,remove the skull from the carcass and clean it by cutting and scraping away all meat1 pulling out the eyeballs1 and scooping out the brain4 ,for the purpose of mounting1 the base of the skull may be cut off to facilitate cleaning1 but for study 7cabinet7 skins the skull must be kept intact and always accompany by number the skin it was removed from4 ,trim all meat from the leg bones and poison these and the skull when finishing preparation of the skin4 ,add a few drops of carbolic acid1 well stirred in to the arsenic water used upon skins of small mammals for mounting4 ,this aids in preventing decay and slipping of the epidermis4 ,apply the poison solution thoroughly with a brush1 to all inner surfaces of the skin and to the toes4 ,if tail was split only at the tip1 run a few drops of arsenic water through it4 ,turn the poisoned skin right side out1 lay it flat1 side pressed to side1 roll up1 place in paper1 and cover with a damp cloth4 ,lay in this way over one night1 giving the arsenic solution a chance to penetrate through to roots of hair before mounting4 ,if a specimen is bloody or mussed the blood may be cleaned off before skinning by wetting the spots with alcohol and rubbing the blood and juices out with cornmeal4 ,the first step in mounting is properly to wire the skull and leg bones4 7,for details of this see ,fig4 #af47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,for the body-wire select a size larger than for the legs1 cutting it twice as long as head1 neck1 and body4 ,for legs choose a size wire that will firmly support the specimen in position without wobbling4 ,if the mammal is to sit erect1 the hind leg-wires must be considerably larger than otherwise and foreleg-wires may be much lighter4 7,making the pelvis loop may be easily followed in diagram in ,fig4 #ag47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,the first body-wire loop is bent to set into the brain cavity4 ,then the foreleg loop is made some little distance back of actual shoulder point 7in fox-squirrel about an inch and a half or two inches74 ,get distance from skull to hip joint from body sketch and follow this sketch for dimensions in bending wire pelvis into shape4 ,the tail loop is last to be made4 ,as ,fig4 #af shows1 the leg-wires are wrapped tightly upon the back of the bones with thread or light cord1 leaving shorter end of wire passing from sole of foot4 ,at shoulder joint turn wire back sharply and at hip ball turn wire in at right angles4 ,in palms and soles of feet turn wire down at right angles4 ,when the bone wiring is completed take up again the body sketches4 ,bring out a quantity of fine excelsior for replacing the leg muscles and skull meat and for filling the body after assembling the wired parts within the skin4 ,in wrapping on the artificial leg muscles begin at the feet4 ,follow the outline sketches and with thread and small cord wrap small1 properly proportioned masses1 squeezed firm in the hand or finger tips1 upon the bones1 copying ,nature's outline and form accurately4 ,wrap the foreleg to the shoulders4 ,complete the hind leg to the knee and above this point wrap on only the muscles on top of the thigh bone1 leaving back of thigh to be filled with loose material when the skin is adjusted4 ,the tail may be made of cotton1 wrapped tightly and smoothly upon the wire1 wisp by wisp4 ,begin at tip and work down1 spinning the wire with right hand to produce uniformity of shape4 ,if mammal is larger than a squirrel the tail may be made of tow1 pulled smooth1 laid lengthwise of the wire1 and wrapped smoothly down with thread4 ,for size1 length1 and shape of tail1 refer to the sketches4 ,the head muscles may be replaced in much the same manner as leg muscles4 7,see ,fig4 #ah for wrapping complete47 ,the specimen is now ready to assemble4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,to accomplish this in systematic order1 insert the head into place and next the forelegs4 ,consult sketch and bend a right angle in foreleg-wire back of shoulder at such a point that shoulder will set in proper relation to head4 ,one at a time1 using the pliers1 twist these foreleg-wire ends1 after setting them through shoulder loop1 tightly back along the body-wire4 ,next insert the hind legs into the skin4 ,slip their wires through hip loops1 carry them forward1 and tightly twist them around body-wire as in forelegs4 ,if the tail skin was unopened except at tip the wrapped tail should be put in when the head is placed in the skin4 ,if tail skin was opened full length1 the artificial tail may be placed after all the legs are adjusted4 ,run tail-wire base forward through its pelvis-wire loop and twist it around body-wire4 7,for general assembling of specimen see ,fig4 #ai47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,before filling the body1 sew up the tail1 using short stitches and a round needle1 if it is possible to push it through skin easily4 ,begin sewing at tip and work toward body4 ,finish all sewing with a simple knot drawn tight under tip of finger4 ,next1 with a stuffing rod of appropriate size1 place the neck filling1 stuffing against palm of left hand hollowed outside the skin at point of filling so that the forming may be felt accurately4 ,then comes the filling for shoulder blades over forelegs and with it the chest filling4 ,in handling the excelsior1 pull out wisps of it from the mass and rub them between the palms so that the fiber is broken up and softened4 ,fine excelsior 7wood wool7 is the material par excellence for stuffing the bodies of small mammals from size of small chipmunks up4 ,mice require a softer material1 and short chopped1 fine tow answers requirements in them4 ,the leg bones of mice may be wrapped with long fiber cotton batting or fine tow4 ,when the shoulders and chest have been filled firm full1 but not to the point of looking stuffed1 turn to the hind legs and pelvis4 ,fill in the back thigh muscles neatly2 then cover top of wire pelvis1 pushing material well down to base of tail4 ,fill rump sufficiently to overcome a pinched or too high set look4 ,the position must be considered in properly filling the back1 sides1 and abdomen4 ,if a bunched up position is to be worked out1 bend the wire back bone into semipose and place the legs in approximately their final position4 ,after this1 fill the body to suit the position1 always forming with the stuffing rod working against the left hand4 ,see that all filling is firm but not packed in to the point of distorting the skin4 ,consult sketches and aim to preserve the little animal's natural form4 7,for general filling details see ,fig4 #bj7 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,when the filling is all placed1 sew the abdominal incision neatly up1 beginning at rear end always and going forward4 ,wax the thread4 ,in a hunched together position1 middling long stitches may be used4 ,in a straighter pose shorter stitches should be used4 ,now1 when the body is sewn up cover the specimen with paper and a damp cloth to prevent drying while a small batch of compo4 ,no4 ,,ii is prepared for finishing feet and head4 ,returning to the specimen with this1 slightly moisten the wrapping on the bones of the feet and apply a bit of the compo4 at front and in the sole of each foot4 ,this cements the toes to the foot and fills the pads4 ,after this is done sew each foot up neatly1 beginning at toes and working toward body4 ,if toes were large and required splitting and removing of toe cords1 replace the cords with bits of small rope or soft twine and sew toes up neatly with short stitches4 ,it is best to use a round needle and black thread1 well waxed for this work4 ,the specimen is now ready to place upon its base1 perch1 or stand4 ,with the approximate position shaped1 mark the perch for wire holes by holding specimen over it and indicating places where wires come1 by scratch or pencil mark4 ,when holes are drilled and the specimen wired into place1 take a strong fur needle set into a handle and by working and compressing with the fingers and jab-lifting with the needle1 finish shaping and positioning4 ,hold in hollow of flanks by sewing through here with long needle and strong cord1 heavily knotted for the first hold4 ,finish this sewing with a knot drawn down into the fur under the thumb4 ,arrange the fur over all stitches by picking it free with tweezers4 ,with the body finished1 take up filling and finishing the head with the compo4 ,first work compo4 into the ears and pinch them out thin and into their natural shape1 then cover the entire face under the skin with compo4 ,fill eye sockets and set eyes as second step4 ,lastly fill the nose and lips and model them firmly upon the jaws4 ,in all mammals cover the teeth well with the lips4 ,even in a muskrat the teeth do not ordinarily show at all4 ,also avoid getting the lips1 nose1 and whisker base too full4 ,set the tail into easy normal position1 pin toes to grasp the perch or set well upon the ground and inspect the body to see that no hollow or bumps remain in the filling where there should be perfect smoothness4 ,remove such of these as persist with the handle-held fur needle and then set the specimen in a well ventilated place to dry4 ,the principal point in preparing thin or stretchy small mammal skins for mounting is to leave the membrane of skin-muscles on the body skin4 ,this holds a flabby skin in shape and lends strength to a frail one4 ,in spite of this the legs of most wild rabbits must be handled very gingerly1 as they have no lining membrane like the body4 ,for finishing mouth1 nose1 and eyelids of mounted mammals1 melt a little refined beeswax in a metal vessel4 ,while the wax is hot 7don't allow it to smoke71 stir in a little tube oil color 7black or brown for most mammals2 color to nature for birds with highly tinted eyelids74 ,mix the wax and color thoroughly with a flat bristle brush4 ,afterward the brush may be easily cleaned of the wax by breaking it up with alcohol1 when it has cooled4 ,next draw some wisps of fine1 long-fiber cotton through the melted wax and lay them quickly flat upon oiled paper to cool4 ,for lips of mammals cut narrow strips of the wax4 ,heat an upholstering spindle and with it repeatedly heated1 melt the wax and cotton into crease of closed lips4 ,melt thin1 flat pieces of the wax into depth of nostrils and very narrow strips in eyelids4 ,when all the wax is placed1 model it into shape with a smooth1 wedge-ended bit of pine wood4 ,to clean out wax that ran into the hair by melting1 apply alcohol with a bit of cloth1 scratch the waxy hair loose with finger nail and rub the crumbled wax out with the bit of alcohol dampened cloth4 ,this leaves lips1 eyelids1 and nostrils neatly finished4 ,apply thin varnish to nose1 edge of eyelids1 and bare parts of lips that show4 ,for mounting a mammal with open mouth1 follow same note given in making a whole head for rug4 ,to make a small mammal cabinet skin1 remove the skin as for mounting except that legs are severed at elbow and knee and soles of feet are split only to allow of poisoning4 ,poison with dry arsenic4 ,wire tail same as in mounting4 ,wrap leg bones with cotton1 tow1 or excelsior according to size of specimen4 ,turn the skin back over a core of one of these materials1 wrapped upon a splinter or stick1 to size of natural body1 but somewhat flatter4 ,sew up abdominal incision neatly4 ,catch the lips together with two or three stitches4 ,lay specimen1 belly down1 upon a soft-wood board4 ,pin fore paws alongside of the face and hind feet alongside of tail4 ,when this is done press specimen until it is slightly flattened and set aside to dry4 ,with each specimen preserve the perfect skull when possible1 date on which taken1 locality1 any note of interest observed at the time 7and add collector's name74 ,in using dry arsenic1 apply with a small brush1 using no grease on the hands4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,,game ,,fishes ,,and ,,small ,,reptiles ,,chapter ,,iv ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,,game ,,fishes ,,and ,,small ,,reptiles ,for the purpose of mounting1 fishes and reptiles must be fresh1 and the fresher the better4 ,in beginning this chapter it may be well to state a simple way to keep fish for a short period before skinning and mounting1 as sportsmen afield will not always be able immediately to prepare specimens taken4 ,first1 while the fish is perfectly fresh1 remove the viscera4 ,if the fish is to be mounted upon a panel for wall decoration1 make the incision along middle of poorest looking side1 full length from gill to tail fin4 ,if the specimen is to stand upon a pedestal of polished wood1 with supporting rods from the belly1 make the incision along center of belly full length4 ,to prevent decay1 stir three or four drops of forty per cent solution of formalin into a quart of water4 ,squeeze a cloth from this1 leaving it pretty moist1 and wrap the fish in it1 giving the wet cloth close contact with the skin4 ,do not apply formalin inside any skin to be used for mounting4 ,never eat the flesh of a fish thus kept4 ,before skinning the fish1 make careful outlines over him1 both side and top views4 ,when skin is removed make outlines of skinned carcass4 ,handle a fish very carefully when skinning and cleaning1 moving the specimen about or bending as little as possible during the entire operation4 ,lay the head to your left4 ,open the skin with scissors and make one long clean cut4 ,lift edges of the skin and peel from flesh with a sharp knife or scalpel4 ,cut off base of fins1 when encountered1 with scissors or bone snips4 ,trim out most of skull with knife and bone snips1 removing eyes from inside4 ,be sure to scrape all flesh from cheek inside of gill cover4 ,remove flesh and fat from inside of skin with scraper1 working from tail toward head4 ,scrape out with point of small knife blade the flesh that runs out thin over tail-fin bones4 ,this completes the skinning operation4 ,the cleaned skin may be poisoned to advantage with either dry or solution arsenic1 brushed in well4 ,if the specimen is opened on the side for panel mounting and we wish to follow a very simple method in mounting1 one that is quite as practical as it is simple1 we must take a different step than outline sketches before skinning4 ,this is to make a complete body and head cast of the best side in plaster of paris4 ,this does not include the fins4 ,to make the cast neatly1 lay the fish1 best side up1 in a slight hollow in a box of clean1 damp sand4 ,pack the sand up under the fish body smoothly so that more than half of him rises in cameo style from the smooth surface4 ,make up enough plaster to do the cast at once4 ,to mix plaster properly1 sprinkle it into the dish of water until a little will begin to stand out dry above the surface4 ,then with a spoon sunk deep in it1 gently stir to evenness4 ,it is then ready to pour4 ,before doing this1 jar the pan upon the table a time or two to cause any possible bubbles to rise4 ,pour evenly over the fish1 or better still1 dip it on with the spoon4 ,the plaster should be thick enough to barely flow for making a proper cast4 ,the pectoral fins are simply laid flat to the side in making the cast4 ,allow the cast to set hard before lifting it and removing the fish4 ,trim off the overlapping edge so that no undercut remains4 ,the cleaned and poisoned skin should lay in damp cloth over one night and is then laid in accurate place back in the cast4 ,pour it nearly full of medium thick plaster of paris1 carefully mixed free of bubbles4 ,settle a board1 cut to approximate body outline but much smaller1 into the unset plaster and press the flap edges of the skin back together over the board1 molding edge of back and belly to round back away from trimmed edge of mold4 ,this must be all done with accuracy before the plaster sets1 but you will find it gives enough time4 ,do not work in a strung-up1 nervous way4 ,when the plaster is set hard1 remove fish from mold1 hold it upon palm of left hand and tack edges of skin to back-board4 7,for general details of this method see ,fig4 #ba74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,screw the specimen to a piece of board and adjust fins1 carding them over little blocks and holding the cards with sharp toilet pins until drying is completed4 ,see that the jaws set right4 ,they should have gone into the mold in proper relation to each other4 ,dig out the plaster in eye socket on show side and set eye in a little fresh plaster4 ,a simple method of making a modelled mannikin for fish follows3 ,have the freshly skinned body or sketches of same at hand4 ,cut a soft-wood board core1 making it some smaller than outline of carcass4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,anchor into this two rigid supporting wires or rods as shown in ,fig4 #bb4 ,upon this board core wrap strongly and smoothly with thread or small cord a quantity of manila fiber to same shape of body but one-half to three-quarters inch smaller than the body4 ,over this apply plaster of paris and manila fiber 7dipping the fiber and laying it on7 to approximate size of natural body4 ,when this is set hard1 pare it smoothly into outlines of natural shape and gouge out slight grooves for fin bases to set into4 7,see ,fig4 #bc474 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,mannikins of this type should be dried out as quickly as possible and shellaced before applying the skin4 ,apply the fish skin with a paste of compo4 ,no4 ,i4 ,card the fins as in ,fig4 #bd4 ,fill the face through mouth and eyes with plaster of paris with a little chopped manila fiber worked into it4 ,use a slight amount of glue in the water to prevent rapid setting of the plaster4 ,hold face in place until set1 with light wrapping of soft cord1 using care that it does not crease soft parts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,special fish eyes may be procured at any dealers in taxidermists' supplies4 ,as the last detail of mounting1 set the eyes4 ,in all kinds of specimens use a size of eyes that pass through the lids easily without the need of stretching to admit them4 ,a panel-fish needs but one eye as a rule4 ,when the specimen is dry apply a coat of thin shellac as a filler to the surface to paint upon4 ,this filler should be very thin and leave only a suggestion of gloss4 ,use oil colors and apply as little pigment as may be used for the effect4 ,kerosene oil is an ideal thinning medium for tube oil colors4 ,have very little paint upon the brush when applying the tints to a fish or reptile skin4 ,a suggestion of natural hues and markings will be found more satisfactory than painting them on heavily4 ,in a day or two when the paint is dry apply a very thin coat of alcohol-cut picture varnish4 ,turps-cut varnish is liable to loosen the paint1 thus necessitating entire re-finishing4 ,fasten a panel fish to the setting that is to frame him1 with two screws at least1 countersinking their heads in the panel back4 ,the fish piece may be hung as a picture1 with screw eyes and cord or it may be hung with one or two sheet metal slots countersunk into the panel back4 ,this will allow the piece to be applied flat to any wall that will hold screws4 ,large fishes mounted with rods for pedestal setting should have rods threaded at both ends for nuts4 ,upper ends that support core board should be bent as shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,this figure also shows complete method of setting both rod and wire supports in body core and permanent stand4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,hard ,,shelled ,,turtle ,for the purpose of skinning a hard shelled turtle 7soft shelled species are best unattempted7 the belly plate is sawed open as shown in ,fig4 #bf4 ,a piece of hacksaw blade may be shaped and set into a firm handle with cross pegs of metal1 for this purpose1 or the small saw found in a hollow handle tool kit may serve4 ,four corner holes must be bored by which to start the sawing1 which1 for ease in accomplishing1 may be thus done upon straight lines4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,through the sawed opening remove the viscera4 ,with scissors and bone snips1 free the legs at their joints with the back shell1 cut the neck and tail vertebrae free and pull all these members inside out through the opened shell4 ,skin the head to well down behind the eye sockets1 uncovering most of the jaw muscles and stopping where the skin and skull are joined directly on the crown4 ,cut the neck off4 ,clean out jaw meat1 tongue1 and brain4 ,turn head right side out and with a stiff wire hook pull out the eyeballs4 ,skin legs clear to toes and remove flesh cleanly from bones4 ,skin tail out carefully4 ,in many species this has to be split on under side to remove bone4 ,dry the shell out with a bit of rag4 ,poison well with arsenic water and let stand over one night1 covered with a damp cloth4 ,a simple method of mounting turtles1 that will be found satisfactory for decorative work1 is clearly shown in ,figs4 #bg and #bh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,a light tow neck is wrapped upon the neck-wire1 which is cut about twice the length of the head and neck-skin1 and has a small loop bent into it near its outer end1 to set into the brain cavity and a loop by front and one by back end of belly opening to hold leg-wires4 ,the front end is run out through the nose4 ,legs are wired as in a mammal with wires bound firmly to bones with thread or cord4 ,bones are then covered with a light wrapping of tow1 placed lightly and smoothly4 ,this serves only as a core to the filling4 ,tail is wrapped upon wire to natural size4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,legs are now pushed back into place1 wires of them and tail are passed through loops in body-wire and twisted around it once or twice1 and then leg-wires are led to drilled holes in edge of shell and clinched in them as shown in ,fig4 #bg4 ,now tie or pin the mouth shut4 ,legs and head and neck are next filled with sawdust1 tamped in with a blunt piece of rod or wire or piece of wood shaped for the purpose4 ,fill in the front legs and head first and stuff some tow behind them to hold the sawdust in place when the specimen is reversed to fill hind legs4 ,after these are filled1 stuff the shell full of tow4 ,position the turtle and wire upon a piece of board for a temporary base4 ,finish shaping with a whittled modeling tool4 ,stuff the skin in front of hind legs into proper concavity with wads of tow or cotton and leave these until the specimen is dried4 ,stuff the eye sockets with chopped tow4 ,wipe inside the eyelids a little liquid glue and carefully set the eyes1 using care to preserve natural fullness of the ball under lids4 ,in drying1 the tip of the nose will shrink away4 ,when the specimen is dry and the nose-wire is cut off1 a wax tip may be modeled on1 nostrils being punched into it with a bit of wire4 ,to set the wax nose1 with a sharp knife trim away the shrunken tip1 place a bit of wax upon the socket1 and melt it into firm contact with a heated wire4 ,shape the artificial nose with a small wooden modeling tool4 ,replace faded colors of turtles with thin tints of tube colors4 ,an ideal method of mounting turtles is to finish head1 neck1 legs1 and tail in compo4 ,no4 ,,ii4 ,use the leg bones and wrap them thinly with tow4 ,wrap a small1 hard1 tow neck upon the wire and a thin tow core upon the tail-wire4 ,cover these cores1 to natural size of muscles1 with papier mache4 ,cover the skull where meat was scraped from jaws4 ,push the neck1 tail and legs into place and wire to shell as in ,fig4 #bg4 ,stuff shell with tow to hold papier mache filling of limbs in place until dry4 ,turtles mounted in this way should be positioned upon a board1 modeled with a tool into anatomical lines of neck1 legs1 etc41 and allowed to remain wired upon the board until the compo4 begins to harden4 ,when this is well under way1 take the turtle from the board and finish drying1 wrong side up in a well ventilated place4 ,remove the tow from inside the shell to allow of quicker evaporation4 ,turtles mounted with sawdust dry very quickly and usually very slowly when finished in papier mache4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,lizard 7,apply the wrapped body principle1 given herewith1 to mounting small snakes1 using a wire through center47 ,a horned toad is a good example for us to work out in this department4 ,skin the specimen as you would a small mammal1 except that body incision runs from jaw to tip of tail and skull is left attached to face-skin4 ,keep the skinned carcass in alcohol for reference in making the hard wrapped excelsior body4 ,mount as you would a bird specimen1 except that all leg-wires are set solid same as the two legs of the bird are4 ,the lizard's leg bones are wired exactly as in a bird and are wrapped with tow or cotton to replace muscles4 ,wire neck and tail and put the specimen together as shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,position the specimen and wire upon a temporary base4 ,set eyes same as in turtles4 ,when dry finish in same manner as a turtle4 ,in large lizards a light covering of compo4 ,no4 ,,ii may be employed over a hard wrapped core1 but is not so satisfactory as dry mounting as the skins of lizards are water-proof and consequently do not allow of moisture evaporating4 ,with care in application the first mentioned method may be employed upon nearly all lizard specimens with most satisfactory results4 ,alligators may be mounted with wrapped legs and tail and stuffed body1 like the small mammal method with the exception of the head4 ,be sure to remove all the jaw meat1 tongue1 and eye socket fat from the skulls of lizard specimens4 ,replace tongue and other tissues with colored wax and cotton when mouth is opened4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,small ,,crustacean ,a crawfish or land crab will serve as a typical medium for describing the method of preparing specimens of this nature4 ,when possible1 take notes of the living colors4 ,crustaceans may be killed most handily with chloroform4 ,place the specimen in a large mouthed bottle or other vessel that may be closed tightly4 ,pour a little chloroform upon a wad of cotton and drop it into the vessel with the specimen and close up tightly4 ,when beginning work1 lay the specimen upon its back and with a sharp scalpel loosen the large thorax plate around its edge and remove it carefully with head and antennae left attached intact4 ,separate tail entire from body meat4 ,split it along fleshy under side and remove muscles from it with the scalpel4 ,the legs will come apart and must be kept in natural order4 ,if the claws are large and meaty1 cut a round hole in under side of thick part and scrape meat out4 ,apply arsenic-water to all inner surfaces4 ,cut wires of suitable size for all the legs4 ,have them enough longer than the legs so that a sharpened end will protrude to run through and clinch in the body core4 ,push wires in full length of legs4 7,fig4 #cj4 shows the details of making the body core of fine excelsior47 ,make the core of a size to fit a little loosely into shell of body and tail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,set legs upon core as shown in ,fig4 #ca4 ,when the legs are properly anchored1 cover the core with enough of compo4 ,no4 ,i4 so it will fit snugly into thorax and tail shells4 ,place these upon the core now and press them accurately into position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,whatever compo4 squeezes out may be removed with a bit of damp cloth or sponge4 ,position legs and tail approximately and wire upon the base4 ,set the legs in their permanent position1 spread or close the tail fan as desired1 arrange the antennae1 and set the specimen in a well ventilated spot to dry4 ,tint with oil colors1 thinned with kerosene as they are used1 laying the tints on with soft brushes4 ,sanded or graveled board bases may be made for birds1 turtles1 etc41 by applying a coat of heavy shellac to top and sides of pieces1 cut to required sizes and shapes1 and before the shellac has a chance to dry1 throwing sand or fine gravel on forcibly or laying the boards in the sand and piling sand over the moist tops1 letting them lay a few moments before removing and shaking off the loose sand4 ,allow such bases to dry thoroughly before using4 ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,virginia ,,deer ,,head ,,chapter ,v ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,virginia ,,deer ,,head ,well mounted trophies of the chase are a source of delight to the fortunate sportsman who possesses them4 ,antlered game heads that are mounted true to life in form and expression may go far to beautify many dining rooms1 dens1 and hallways1 enhancing the artistic tone of the rooms in which they are well placed4 ,as in all taxidermy work1 outline sketches direct from the fresh specimen1 top and side views1 both before and after skinning1 are of great value in mounting deer heads4 ,as in other specimens1 deer scalps for mounting should be as fresh as possible4 ,if a scalp is to be kept for some little time before mounting it should be well salted4 ,roll the scalp up and lay over night to drain4 ,next day scrape off the first salt and rub in another thorough salting4 ,keep the skin rolled up to prevent drying hard until mounting or sent to the tanner4 ,an ideal deer scalp includes the neck skin entire to swell of shoulders and brisket4 ,the incisions to be made for removing a deer scalp are shown in ,fig4 #cb4 ,a good sharp knife will be required for peeling the skin from the neck4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,cut very carefully up under rim of horn bases when removing skin from around them1 using care not to haggle edge of skin4 ,use same care in skinning out the face1 splitting lips and eyelids and skinning out the ears as in small mammal specimen4 ,remove the ear cartilages entire1 after skinning their backs1 beginning at the thick top edge and proceeding very carefully1 looking out not to tear open the edges4 ,scalps may be mounted raw or tanned4 ,the ideal way is to use a tanned1 thin pared scalp1 mounting it with papier mache upon a modeled mannikin4 ,the raw skin method is perhaps easiest of application1 but in all ways is not as satisfactory as the tanned skin method4 ,for mounting a deer scalp raw1 if salted1 soak out the salt by squeezing through two or three baths of cold1 weak carbolic water4 ,dry the scalp thoroughly in fine sawdust1 rubbing it into the hair and repeatedly shaking until all moisture is removed4 ,with a small1 hardwood paring beam1 shown in ,fig4 #cc1 clamped to edge of table1 and a sharp paring knife1 remove all flesh from inner surface of skin and peel out nose cartilage4 ,leave nearly an inch of nostril lining around the openings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,pare all flesh from lips1 leaving a half or three-quarters inch of the lining all around them4 ,split white eyelid lining free to edge and leave a quarter inch of it all around the openings4 ,when skinning out the ears keep the cartilages for models4 ,poison all inner surfaces of the cleaned skin with arsenic water brushed in well4 ,fold face1 wrong side out1 back upon neck4 ,fold neck skin flesh to flesh over face1 roll the scalp up1 hair side out1 and lay aside in cool place over one night before mounting4 ,the mannikin should be prepared in time so that the skin will not have to lay wet for more than a day before mounting4 ,it is well to prepare mannikin before skin is poisoned so that skin may be used for fitting unless accurate outline studies are at hand4 ,with these the fitting is not necessary4 ,for raw-mounting the head1 clean skull by boiling in a deep pail until meat comes off easily4 ,a little washing soda in the water will help clean the bone4 ,with a saw1 cut through under side of brain cavity1 lengthwise on each side of axis bone4 ,cut the loosened piece out with a chisel and remove brain4 ,set the skull upon neck-board of suitable length 7refer to studies7 mounted with screws upon a cut out neck base-board of inch thick wood1 as shown in ,fig4 #cd4 ,fasten skull to top of neck board with nails driven through holes drilled through the bone4 ,if turned head is desired1 make opening in under side of brain cavity wider and nail skull at any desired angle upon top of neck board4 ,screw upon back of neck base-board a one by three inch piece with free end dropping a few inches below bottom of base-board so that head may be handily set in a vise4 ,this will allow you to get all around it and the vise will hold it at any angle1 making sewing1 etc41 easier4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,upon skull1 for jaw muscles1 and upon neck board wrap excelsior1 packing it hard as you go along1 to required natural size4 ,a raw skin will settle better in drying if neck is slightly smaller than natural size4 ,to aid in wrapping close and firm to edge of neck base-board1 drive a row of small1 broad headed nails half into the edge1 two or three inches apart all around and loop the winding-cord over these as the wrapping proceeds4 ,drive these nails down when wrapping is completed4 7,see ,fig4 #ce for finished wrapped excelsior head1 ready for the skin47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,drop the dry ear cartilages into warm water4 ,in this they will quickly regain their natural shape4 ,using them as models make a pair of duplicates of them of thin sheet lead which may be procured from a plumber or hardware dealer4 ,split into the base of the cartilage so it may be spread as nearly flat as possible and lay on the lead1 drawing around its outline with a nail point4 ,cut out the lead ears with a pair of metal-shears4 ,hammer into natural concave shape with a bit of heavy wood rounded into a ball at one end for the purpose4 7,for details of ear making see ,fig4 #cf74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,with the skin and mannikin in readiness make up a batch of plaster of paris in thin glue water1 only enough glue stirred in so that it can barely be felt when the fingers are rubbed together in the water4 ,this should retard the plaster setting for from four to six hours and give ample time for finishing the deer's face4 ,this compo4 will set immediately if used in a skin that has been treated with formaldehyde1 sulphuric acid1 or alum1 as the glue becomes tanned and impotent by them4 ,make this compo4 thick and stiff and mix into it some chopped manila fiber4 ,for finishing one deer face and ear-butts about a quart and a half of the compo4 should be made4 ,this should cover the face thinly1 fill the ear-butts1 set the eyes1 and fill nose and mouth details out4 ,in beginning the setting of the scalp into place1 cover the lead ears thinly with the compo4 and slip them into the ear skins4 ,the lead will have to be partly folded together to accomplish this and spread again when inside4 ,if edges of ears have been torn open in skinning1 sew them up neatly from the outside1 using a small round needle and small thread before the lead is placed4 ,with the cartilages set1 fill the ear butts with compo41 squeezing it out upon the lead a little way that it may brace the ears when set finally4 ,set the mannikin in the vise for convenience4 ,cover skull with a thin layer of compo4 where bone is exposed and slip the face skin into place4 ,hold the scalp up now by tying a heavy cord under the jaw and behind the horns4 ,draw the neck skin into place and tie it up with a piece of cord about the neck near base4 ,now1 for better convenience in sewing1 remove the head from the vise1 set front of neck base on the floor and lean the antlers against a chair seat1 back of neck up4 ,draw corners of antler cuts together back of the horns4 ,begin at one horn and sew to joint of the ,y cut4 ,sew from the other horn and then continue down the neck to the base1 using medium stitches and drawing tight4 ,this method of sewing a game head is the only exception1 in taxidermy1 to sewing toward the head4 ,for a raw scalp use a sail needle and waxed ends4 ,for a tanned scalp1 a large fur needle and strong linen4 ,with the sewing completed1 turn to nailing the scalp to the back-board4 ,turn the free edge of skin down over back of board and nail firmly with short broad headed nails so that when the surplus is trimmed off a turned over edge of skin two or three inches wide will remain1 held snugly by nails set two inches apart4 ,count upon finishing a raw head all up at one go when using the plaster compo4 ,this is the only compo4 which can be recommended to hold raw1 haired skins down1 as the material must set before the skin begins to dry and pull4 ,before turning to finishing the face1 unscrew the holding piece from back of neck-board and nail up the part of skin's edge that it covered4 ,replace the piece and set head in vise facing you4 ,pinch and mold the ear skin tightly upon the compo4 covered lead and model the ear-butts into shape firmly against the head4 ,run a strong-threaded fur needle1 with large knot at end of thread1 through middle of upper edge of each lead ear4 ,draw ears up to desired position and wrap thread around a convenient part of antlers to hold until compo4 sets4 ,next loop a cord under each ear at base of cartilage and tie over antlers to hold lower end of cartilage from sagging until set4 ,when ears are finished1 press face skin into compo4 upon skull and massage it down to hold firmly4 ,fill eyelids thinly inside flap of lining1 place a little compo4 in hollow of sockets1 and set eyes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,deer are usually quite fleshy just over the eyes4 ,place this filling before eyes are set4 ,also press a little compo4 into the hollows of the suborbital glands and with the fingers work these fleshy eye details out roughly and finish with a modeling tool1 pressing the slits of suborbital glands in deeply with a thick-edged instrument4 ,see that the face skin is worked down firmly and smoothly clear to the nose4 ,fill nose and upper lip and model them into natural shape4 ,lastly1 fill chin and lower lip4 ,tuck lower lip up well under upper and model lips and chin into proper relation to each other4 ,if any compo4 has gotten into the hair wipe it out with a damp sponge4 ,leave head in the vise until compo4 is set and then hang in a well ventilated place to dry4 ,do not hang near stove or radiator4 ,when thoroughly dried out1 brush dust out of hair and finish the eyelids1 nostrils1 etc41 with wax and cotton1 burned in1 same as given for finishing a small mammal4 ,if placing the head upon a shield1 use at least four strong screws of a length to go nearly through the two boards4 ,for mounting a deer scalp tanned1 the preparation is very different4 ,scalps may be had tanned at a number of reputable fur houses throughout the country at a small cost4 ,to get best results1 send scalps and rug-skins in to the tanner with ears skinned out and eyelids and lips split and nose cartilage pared out4 ,tanned scalps1 if kept from moths1 may be preserved unmounted for a long time4 ,when required for mounting1 a tanned scalp need only be relaxed with water brushed or sponged into the flesh side and1 when soft1 poisoned with arsenic-water and folded together1 flesh to flesh1 over one night4 ,the process of mounting a tanned scalp differs from the raw in that it is set up on a wire and plaster shell1 more carefully shaped than the excelsior form4 ,the entire scalp is stuck down to the shell with compo4 ,no4 ,i rubbed well into the skin and upon the shell4 ,the face and ears are set and finished with compo4 ,no4 ,,ii1 which1 as before stated1 is ,no4 ,i thickened to the consistency of modeling clay with plaster of paris4 ,this method gives much finer and more permanent results4 ,for details of plaster and wire mannikin1 see ,fig4 #cg4 ,this type of shell is made as follows3 ,set the cleaned skull upon neck-board and back-board same as for wrapping excelsior neck4 ,half-inch mesh chicken wire will do1 if no free mesh wire can be procured1 for building the frame4 ,the wire neck is best placed in halves4 ,the shaping will require considerable cutting and neat manipulation with pincers and hammer and tying with bits of wire4 ,use staple tacks to fasten wire to edge of back-board4 ,the wire shell should be smaller than natural neck to allow for coat of plaster and fiber4 ,for this make up not more than half a wash basin at a time1 mixing the plaster with plain water in the ordinary way4 ,make the batches middling thick1 enough so that it will not drizzle from the wire4 ,pick a quantity of fiber into small handfuls4 ,to apply1 dip a film of the manila fiber into the plaster1 drag it out over edge of dish to remove surplus plaster1 and apply to wire shell4 ,work fast enough to keep ahead of plaster setting4 ,wipe each application out smooth as you go4 ,apply a thin coat1 very smooth1 all over the skull and model on the jaw muscles with the plaster and fiber4 ,when plaster is set1 surface the shell and remove all inequalities by paring with an ordinary small butcher-knife4 ,allow to thoroughly dry and apply a good coat of medium thin shellac4 ,have this type of mannikin completed1 dried1 and shellaced before moistening and preparing the tanned skin4 ,to prepare mammal skins in the field1 for transportation and keeping1 remove skins carefully1 same as for immediate mounting4 ,salt thoroughly1 rubbing in well1 and roll up to drain over night4 ,next day shake out the first salt1 which will be found saturated with juices1 rub fresh salt in all over1 and roll up over another night4 ,in this condition small skins may be sealed in glass jars or friction top tins and kept damp thus for some time4 ,to make a preserving pickle for keeping skins wet1 boil salt in water until heaviest brine possible to make is produced4 ,add a tablespoonful of carbolic acid to the gallon while hot4 ,stir well4 ,let the solution cool thoroughly before submerging skins in it4 ,skins should always be put through the double dry salting before going into pickle4 ,keep in covered earthen jars4 ,for making up into rugs1 send animal skins to a good tanner1 first skinning out the ears and paring out lips and nose4 ,to make an open-mouthed rug head1 use the natural skull when possible4 ,set the jaws open solidly with plaster of paris and at the same time lay a plaster core between lower jaw for the artificial tongue4 ,set the skull upon a cut-out base-board as shown in ,fig4 #ch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,drive nails half in all around back and side edges of this base-board and wrap on filling of excelsior for jaws and flare of neck4 ,drive the nails down tight after wrapping is completed4 ,mount the head before stretching the skin4 ,relax the head with water and poison same as deer scalp4 ,use plaster and glue-water compo4 as in raw deer scalp4 ,if a snarling expression is desired1 model the wrinkles on the muzzle with an edged wooden tool4 ,tuck the lip lining well under the filling1 so they will hold in place when the plaster is set4 ,finish details of face same as in other mounting4 ,finish the tongue and gums by melting colored wax and cotton upon core and bone with hot iron1 modeling and carving to shape when cool4 ,after the head is mounted and set1 stretch the skin4 ,moisten the flesh side to soften it up well4 ,nail down the rear end upon floor to its widest spread1 with hind legs pointing back on a slight slant4 ,draw the skin forward and spread forelegs and front end to widest extent and nail down in accurate line with hind part4 ,now work from side to side1 nailing skin out to its widest extent and in symmetrical lines4 ,always stretch a rug-skin hair side down4 ,a slight wash of arsenic-water may be applied after the skin is stretched and while yet moist1 care being used not to mess the hair with the solution4 ,when dry1 the skin is ready to line4 ,lay the felt lining upon the floor and the skin upon it and cut around the skin1 allowing three or four inches for pinked edge4 ,with a pinking iron cut scalloped edge and enough of a narrow strip to gather fully all around just inside the outer edge4 ,lay skin on lining and mark its edge with tailor's chalk4 ,sew the gathered edge just inside this chalk mark so that the stitch will be covered by the skin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,quilt skin upon the lining with a good layer of cotton wadding between4 ,be sure and not draw down a bunch of hair under each loop4 ,tie the knots neatly on under side4 ,fig4 #ci shows incisions to make in removing a pelt for a symmetrical rug4 ,rug skins are best dried with no preservative whatever4 ,in drying skins1 stretch them symmetrically and dry in the shade4 ,illustration ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,coyote ,,chapter ,,vi ,,preparing ,,and ,,mounting ,a ,,coyote ,this method may be applied to specimens from the size of a red fox or a bobcat up to a timber wolf4 ,remove the skin and prepare it in same way as that of a small mammal for mounting4 ,when the carcass is bared in skinning1 measure the girth of the neck at middle and at base2 of the chest just behind the forelegs2 the abdomen at its middle2 the upper-arm at middle2 the forearm just below elbow2 the thigh at middle2 the shank just below swell of thigh muscles back of knee1 and the tail near its base4 7,see ,fig4 #dj for measurements47 ,lay the carcass upon a large piece of wrapping paper and take an outline of it complete1 both before and after skinning4 ,use same incisions and remove skin identically as in small specimen4 ,upon the outline sketch of peeled complete carcass set down the girth measurements in their proper places as taken with the tape4 ,as in smaller specimens1 these outline sketches will be found of great value as an aid to preserving natural lines in mounting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,wire the leg bones same as in a small mammal1 using soft iron rod of sufficient size to support the specimen firmly4 ,in our coyote a quarter-inch rod will be required4 ,in a bobcat a three-sixteenths-inch rod will be large enough to support sturdily4 ,bend the leg rods to fit the joints in position desired4 ,cut the rods of a length so that six or eight inches will protrude from the feet and eight or ten inches will remain free above to anchor to the body core4 ,bind the rods to the leg-bones with strong1 light cord1 doing the firmest wrapping near the joints4 ,working over the body outline1 cut a one-inch-thick board core that will set well within the outline4 7,see ,fig4 #da47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,cut a neck-rod of same size as for legs1 having it twice as long as neck and head4 ,near one end of the neck-rod bend a jog to hold well when set with plaster of paris and chopped fiber into the brain cavity of the cleaned skull4 ,wrap the leg muscles upon the bones same as in a small specimen1 except pull the excelsior rather smooth for the purpose instead of rolling it in the palms4 ,make the ,achilles tendon in same way and leave back of thigh off to be stuffed4 ,when the plaster to hold neck-rod in head is set1 anchor the skull by the rod to the core-board in proper relation to the body4 ,to do this1 run the rod through a hole drilled through the board1 clinch rod down forward and back with a hammer on anvil or vise1 and fasten with staples1 or drill a small hole through core-board each side of rod and tie the rod down with a strong loop of wire twisted down with the pliers4 ,wrap the skull muscles on with excelsior rolled in palms of hands4 ,wrap a tail of pulled excelsior laid straight along a wire much smaller than is used in legs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,drill the center-board for legs and tail as shown in ,fig4 #db1 which shows general assembling details4 ,when the legs1 head1 and tail are finished1 push the head and body-core into place in the skin1 shove in the legs and tail1 and wire the legs and tail fast in the center-board same as head was fastened4 ,the remainder of the mounting is accomplished in exactly the same way as the filling and finishing of a small mammal specimen1 i4 e41 by stuffing the neck1 body1 and back of thighs and finishing the face and feet with a batch of papier-mache compo4 ,no4 #b4 ,if the mouth is to be open1 follow directions given for finishing an entire rug-head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,to hold in the hollow of the flanks1 cut several short1 strong pieces of wire1 sharpen them to cutting points1 push them through the skin along line of hollow in front of hip1 drive them firmly into the core-board1 and then1 with cutting pliers clinch their ends down to hold the skin in and cut off surplus wire1 picking the fur out well to cover them4 7,see ,fig4 #dc47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,to support the compo4-filled ears until set and dry1 drive a sharpened wire into the head1 through hollow of ear4 ,point the wire in direction ear is to lay or stand and between ear and wire lay a loose1 flat wad of cotton or tow4 ,with a furrier's needle and thread take a narrow loop through center of ear near tip and tie lightly around wire to hold until dry4 ,when dry remove the thread with scissors and the wires by a slight twist with pliers4 ,mammals of the sizes named may be mounted so skillfully by this method that they cannot be told from mannikin specimens4 ,specimens of this size need not be entirely mounted at one sitting4 ,prepare the skin1 wire and wrap the legs and head1 and make the center-board in one day1 assemble the specimen and place the body filling the next day1 and make the feet1 mount the specimen1 and finish the head the third day4 ,a little carbolic acid in the arsenic-water will help keep the skin from slipping the hair4 ,also keep unfinished parts wrapped in damp cloths wrung from carbolic acid water4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,end 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,the following corrections have been made to the text4 ,page #aj3 uphosterer's to upholsterer's--one upholsterer's regulator4 ,page #ab3 speical to special--your special tools4 ,page #ba3 betwen to between--rump between two4 ,page #cb3 rightangle to right angle--short right angle bend4 ,page #cg3 eyesockets to eye sockets--cotton of the eye sockets4 ,page #ii3 transportaion to transportation--for transportation and4 ,page #ajj3 thoroughy to thoroughly--cool thoroughly before4 ,,outing ,,publishing ,,company--,,new ,,york ,illustration3 ,,outing ,,handbooks ,the textbooks for outdoor work and play ,each book deals with a separate subject and deals with it thoroughly4 ,if you want to know anything about ,airedales an ,,outing ,,handbook gives you all you want4 ,if it's ,apple ,growing1 another ,,outing ,,handbook meets your need4 ,the ,fisherman1 the ,camper1 the ,poultry-raiser1 the ,automobilist1 the ,horseman1 all varieties of out-door enthusiasts1 will find separate volumes for their separate interests4 ,there is no waste space4 ,the series is based on the plan of one subject to a book and each book complete4 ,the authors are experts4 ,each book has been specially prepared for this series and all are published in uniform style1 flexible cloth binding4 ,two hundred titles are projected4 ,the series covers all phases of outdoor life1 from bee-keeping to big-game shooting4 ,among the books now ready or in preparation are those described on the following pages4 ,if you wish for any information on any outdoor subject not treated in one of the following books write ,outing ,publishing ,co41 #ada-ade ,west #cfth ,st41 ,new ,york4 ,,price ,,seventy ,,cents ,,per ,,vol4 ,,net1 ,,postage #e;c4 ,,extra ,,the ,,numbers ,,make ,,ordering ,,easy4 #a4 ,,exercise ,,and ,,health1 by ,dr4 ,woods ,hutchinson4 ,dr4 ,hutchinson takes the common-sense view that the greatest problem in exercise for most of us is to get enough of the right kind4 ,the greatest error in exercise is not to take enough1 and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up4 ,he writes in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an avoidance of medical terms1 and a strong emphasis on the rational1 all-around manner of living that is best calculated to bring a man to a ripe old age with little illness or consciousness of bodily weakness4 #b4 ,,camp ,,cookery1 by ,horace ,kephart4 ,the less a man carries in his pack the more he must carry in his head1 says ,mr4 ,kephart4 ,this book tells what a man should carry in both pack and head4 ,every step is traced--the selection of provisions and utensils1 with the kind and quantity of each1 the preparation of game1 the building of fires1 the cooking of every conceivable kind of food that the camp outfit or woods1 fields or streams may provide--even to the making of desserts4 ,every recipe is the result of hard practice and long experience4 #c4 ,,backwoods ,,surgery ,,and ,,medicine1 by ,charles ,s4 ,moody1 ,m4 ,d4 ,a handy book for the prudent lover of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but believes in being on the safe side4 ,common-sense methods for the treatment of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described--setting a broken limb1 reducing a dislocation1 caring for burns1 cuts1 etc4 ,practical remedies for camp diseases are recommended1 as well as the ordinary indications of the most probable ailments4 ,includes a list of the necessary medical and surgical supplies4 #d4 ,,apple ,,growing1 by ,m4 ,c4 ,burritt4 ,the various problems confronting the apple grower1 from the preparation of the soil and the planting of the trees to the marketing of the fruit1 are discussed in detail by the author4 #e4 ,,the ,,airedale1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,the book opens with a short chapter on the origin and development of the ,airedale1 as a distinctive breed4 ,the author then takes up the problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog1 breeding1 training and use4 ,the book is designed for the non-professional dog fancier1 who wishes common sense advice which does not involve elaborate preparations or expenditure4 ,chapters are included on the care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary diseases4 #f4 ,,the ,,automobile--,its ,selection1 ,care and ,use1 by ,robert ,sloss4 ,this is a plain1 practical discussion of the things that every man needs to know if he is to buy the right car and get the most out of it4 ,the various details of operation and care are given in simple1 intelligent terms4 ,from it the car owner can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and the art of locating motor trouble1 as well as how to use his car for the greatest pleasure4 #g4 ,,fishing ,,kits ,,and ,,equipment1 by ,samuel ,g4 ,camp4 ,a complete guide to the angler buying a new outfit4 ,every detail of the fishing kit of the freshwater angler is described1 from rodtip to creel1 and clothing4 ,special emphasis is laid on outfitting for fly fishing1 but full instruction is also given to the man who wants to catch pickerel1 pike1 muskellunge1 lake-trout1 bass and other freshwater game fishes4 ,the approved method of selecting and testing the various rods1 lines1 leaders1 etc41 is described4 #h4 ,,the ,,fine ,,art ,,of ,,fishing1 by ,samuel ,g4 ,camp4 ,combine the pleasure of catching fish with the gratification of following the sport in the most approved manner4 ,the suggestions offered are helpful to beginner and expert anglers4 ,the range of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes such subjects as ,casting ,fine and ,far ,off1 ,strip-,casting for ,bass1 ,fishing for ,mountain ,trout and ,autumn ,fishing for ,lake ,trout4 ,the book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside and the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate4 ,a companion book to ,fishing ,kits and ,equipment4 #i4 ,,the ,,horse--,its ,breeding1 ,care and ,use1 by ,david ,buffum4 ,mr4 ,buffum takes up the common1 every-day problems of the ordinary horse-users1 such as feeding1 shoeing1 simple home remedies1 breaking and the cure for various equine vices4 ,an important chapter is that tracing the influx of ,arabian blood into the ,english and ,american horses and its value and limitations4 ,a distinctly sensible book for the sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve his horses and his horsemanship at the same time4 #aj4 ,,the ,,motor ,,boat--,its ,selection1 ,care and ,use1 by ,h4 ,w4 ,slauson4 ,the intending purchaser is advised as to the type of motor boat best suited to his particular needs and how to keep it in running condition after purchased4 #aa4 ,,outdoor ,,signalling1 by ,elbert ,wells4 ,mr4 ,wells has perfected a method of signalling by means of wigwag1 light1 smoke1 or whistle which is as simple as it is effective4 ,the fundamental principle can be learned in ten minutes and its application is far easier than that of any other code now in use4 #ab4 ,,tracks ,,and ,,tracking1 by ,josef ,brunner4 ,after twenty years of patient study and practical experience1 ,mr4 ,brunner can1 from his intimate knowledge1 speak with authority on this subject4 ,tracks and ,tracking shows how to follow intelligently even the most intricate animal or bird tracks2 how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many tell-tale signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed2 to tell from the footprints the name1 sex1 speed1 direction1 whether and how wounded1 and many other things about wild animals and birds4 #ac4 ,,wing ,,and ,,trap-,,shooting1 by ,charles ,askins4 ,contains a full discussion of the various methods1 such as snap-shooting1 swing and half-swing1 discusses the flight of birds with reference to the gunner's problem of lead and range and makes special application of the various points to the different birds commonly shot in this country4 ,a chapter is included on trap shooting and the book closes with a forceful and common-sense presentation of the etiquette of the field4 #ad4 ,,profitable ,,breeds ,,of ,,poultry1 by ,arthur ,s4 ,wheeler4 ,mr4 ,wheeler discusses from personal experience the best-known general purpose breeds4 ,advice is given from the standpoint of the man who desires results in eggs and stock rather than in specimens for exhibition4 ,in addition to a careful analysis of stock--good and bad--and some conclusions regarding housing and management1 the author writes in detail regarding ,plymouth ,rocks1 ,wyandottes1 ,orpingtons1 ,rhode ,island ,reds1 etc4 #ae4 ,,rifles ,,and ,,rifle ,,shooting1 by ,charles ,askins4 ,a practical manual describing various makes and mechanisms1 in addition to discussing in detail the range and limitations in the use of the rifle4 ,treats on the every style and make of rifle as well as their use4 ,every type of rifle is discussed so that the book is complete in every detail4 #af4 ,,sporting ,,firearms1 by ,horace ,kephart4 ,this book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments4 ,practically nothing is taken for granted4 ,part ,i deals with the rifle1 and ,part ,,ii with the shotgun4 ,the man seeking guidance in the selection and use of small firearms1 as well as the advanced student of the subject1 will receive an unusual amount of assistance from this work4 #ag4 ,,the ,,yachtsman',s ,,handbook1 by ,herbert ,l4 ,stone4 ,the author and compiler of this work is the editor of ,yachting4 ,he treats in simple language of the many problems confronting the amateur sailor and motor boatman4 ,handling ground tackle1 handling lines1 taking soundings1 the use of the lead line1 care and use of sails1 yachting etiquette1 are all given careful attention4 ,some light is thrown upon the operation of the gasoline motor1 and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine troubles4 #ah4 ,,scottish ,,and ,,irish ,,terriers1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,this is a companion book to ,the ,airedale1 and deals with the history and development of both breeds4 ,for the owner of the dog1 valuable information is given as to the use of the terriers1 their treatment in health1 their treatment when sick1 the principles of dog breeding1 and dog shows and rules4 #ai4 ,,navigation ,,for ,,the ,,amateur1 by ,capt4 ,e4 ,t4 ,morton4 ,a short treatise on the simpler methods of finding position at sea by the observation of the sun's altitude and the use of the sextant and chronometer4 ,it is arranged especially for yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the simpler formul for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat anywhere off shore4 ,illustrated4 #bj4 ,,outdoor ,,photography1 by ,julian ,a4 ,dimock4 ,a solution of all the problems in camera work out-of-doors4 ,the various subjects dealt with are3 ,the ,camera--,lens and ,plates--,light and ,exposure--,development--,prints and ,printing1 etc4 #ba4 ,,packing ,,and ,,portaging1 by ,dillon ,wallace4 ,mr4 ,wallace has brought together in one volume all the valuable information on the different ways of making and carrying the different kinds of packs4 ,the ground covered ranges from man-packing to horse-packing1 from the use of the tump line to throwing the diamond hitch4 #bb4 ,,the ,,bull ,,terrier1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,this is a companion book to ,the ,airedale and ,scottish and ,irish ,terriers by the same author4 ,its greatest usefulness is as a guide to the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager4 ,a full account of the development of the breed is given with a description of best types and standards4 ,recommendations for the care of the dog in health or sickness are included4 #bc4 ,,the ,,fox ,,terrier1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,as in his other books on the terrier1 ,mr4 ,haynes takes up the origin and history of the breed1 its types and standards1 and the more exclusive representatives down to the present time4 ,training the ,fox ,terrier--,his ,care and ,kenneling in ,sickness and ,health--and the ,various ,uses to ,which ,he ,can ,be ,put--are among the phases handled4 #bd4 ,,suburban ,,gardens1 by ,grace ,tabor4 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,the author regards the house and grounds as a complete unit and shows how the best results may be obtained by carrying the reader in detail through the various phases of designing the garden1 with the levels and contours necessary1 laying out the walks and paths1 planning and placing the arbors1 summer houses1 seats1 etc41 and selecting and placing trees1 shrubs1 vines and flowers4 ,ideal plans for plots of various sizes are appended1 as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been made through starting wrong4 #be4 ,,fishing ,,with ,,floating ,,flies1 by ,samuel ,g4 ,camp4 ,this is an art that is comparatively new in this country although ,english anglers have used the dry fly for generations4 ,mr4 ,camp has given the matter special study and is one of the few ,american anglers who really understands the matter from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish4 #bf4 ,,the ,,gasoline ,,motor1 by ,harold ,whiting ,slauson4 ,deals with the practical problems of motor operation4 ,the standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and why gasoline generates power and something about the various types4 ,describes in detail the different parts of motors and the faults to which they are liable4 ,also gives full directions as to repair and upkeep4 #bg4 ,,ice ,,boating1 by ,h4 ,l4 ,stone4 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,here have been brought together all the available information on the organization and history of ice-boating1 the building of the various types of ice yachts1 from the small #ae footer to the #fjj-;foot racer1 together with detailed plans and specifications4 ,full information is also given to meet the needs of those who wish to be able to build and sail their own boats but are handicapped by the lack of proper knowledge as to just the points described in this volume4 #bh4 ,,modern ,,golf1 by ,harold ,h4 ,hilton4 ,mr4 ,hilton is the only man who has ever held the amateur championship of ,great ,britain and the ,united ,states in the same year4 ,this book gives the reader sound advice1 not so much on the mere swinging of the clubs as in the actual playing of the game1 with all the factors that enter into it4 ,he discusses the use of wooden clubs1 the choice of clubs1 the art of approaching1 and kindred subjects4 #bi4 ,,intensive ,,farming1 by ,l4 ,c4 ,corbett4 ,a discussion of the meaning1 method and value of intensive methods in agriculture4 ,this book is designed for the convenience of practical farmers who find themselves under the necessity of making a living out of high-priced land4 #cj4 ,,practical ,,dog ,,breeding1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,this is a companion volume to ,,practical ,,dog ,,keeping1 described below4 ,it goes at length into the fundamental questions of breeding1 such as selection of types on both sides1 the perpetuation of desirable1 and the elimination of undesirable qualities1 the value of prepotency in building up a desired breed1 etc4 #ca4 ,,practical ,,dog ,,keeping1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,mr4 ,haynes is well known to the readers of the ,,outing ,,handbooks as the author of books on the terriers4 ,his new book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him into the general field of selection of breeds1 the buying and selling of dogs1 the care of dogs in kennels1 handling in bench shows and field trials1 and at considerable length into such subjects as food and feeding1 exercise and grooming1 disease1 etc4 #cb4 ,,the ,,vegetable ,,garden1 by ,r4 ,l4 ,watts4 ,this book is designed for the small grower with a limited plot of ground4 ,the reader is told what types of vegetables to select1 the manner of planting and cultivation1 and the returns that may be expected4 #cc4 ,,amateur ,,rodmaking1 by ,perry ,d4 ,frazer4 ,illustrated4 ,a practical manual for all those who want to make their own rod and fittings4 ,it contains a review of fishing rod history1 a discussion of materials1 a list of the tools needed1 description of the method to be followed in making all kinds of rods1 including fly-casting1 bait-fishing1 salmon1 etc41 with full instructions for winding1 varnishing1 etc4 #cd4 ,,pistol ,,and ,,revolver ,,shooting1 by ,a4 ,l4 ,a4 ,himmelwright4 ,a new and revised edition of a work that has already achieved prominence as an accepted authority on the use of the hand gun4 ,full instructions are given in the use of both revolver and target pistol1 including shooting position1 grip1 position of arm1 etc4 ,the book is thoroughly illustrated with diagrams and photographs and includes the rules of the ,united ,states ,revolver ,association and a list of the records made both here and abroad4 #ce4 ,,pigeon ,,raising1 by ,alice ,mac,leod4 ,this is a book for both fancier and market breeder4 ,full descriptions are given of the construction of houses1 the care of the birds1 preparation for market1 and shipment1 of the various breeds with their markings and characteristics4 #cf4 ,,fishing ,,tackle1 by ,perry ,d4 ,frazer4 ,illustrated4 ,it tells all the fisherman needs to know about making and overhauling his tackle during the closed season and gives full instructions for tournament casting and fly-casting4 #cg4 ,,automobile ,,operation1 by ,a4 ,l4 ,brennan1 ,jr4 ,illustrated4 ,tells the plain truth about the little things that every motorist wants to know about his own car4 ,do you want to cure ignition troubles8 ,overhaul and adjust your carbureter8 ,keep your transmission in order8 ,get the maximum wear out of your tires8 ,do any other of the hundred and one things that are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your car8 ,then you will find this book useful4 #ch4 ,,the ,,fox ,,hound1 by ,roger ,d4 ,williams4 ,author of ,horse and ,hound4 ,illustrated4 ,the author is the foremost authority on fox hunting and foxhounds in ,america4 ,for years he has kept the foxhound studbook1 and is the final source of information on all disputed points relating to this breed4 ,his book discusses types1 methods of training1 kenneling1 diseases and all the other practical points relating to the use and care of the hound1 etc4 #ci4 ,,salt ,,water ,,game ,,fishing1 by ,charles ,f4 ,holder4 ,mr4 ,holder covers the whole field of his subject devoting a chapter each to such fish as the tuna1 the tarpon1 amberjack1 the sail fish1 the yellow-tail1 the king fish1 the barracuda1 the sea bass and the small game fishes of ,florida1 ,porto ,rico1 the ,pacific ,coast1 ,hawaii1 and the ,philippines4 ,the habits and habitats of the fish are described1 together with the methods and tackle for taking them4 ,illustrated4 #dj4 ,,winter ,,camping1 by ,warwick ,s4 ,carpenter4 ,a book that meets the increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold weather4 ,mr4 ,carpenter discusses such subjects as shelter equipment1 clothing1 food1 snowshoeing1 skiing1 and winter hunting1 wild life in winter woods1 care of frost bite1 etc4 ,illustrated4 #da4 99,,woodcraft ,,for ,,women1 by ,mrs4 ,kathrene ,gedney ,pinkerton4 ,the author has spent several years in the ,canadian woods and is thoroughly familiar with the subject from both the masculine and feminine point of view4 ,she gives sound tips on clothing1 camping outfit1 food supplies1 and methods1 by which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor environment4 #db4 99,,small ,,boat ,,building1 by ,h4 ,w4 ,patterson4 ,illustrated with diagrams and plans4 ,a working manual for the man who wants to be his own designer and builder4 ,detail descriptions and drawings are given showing the various stages in the building1 and chapters are included on proper materials and details4 #dc4 ,,reading ,,the ,,weather1 by ,t4 ,morris ,longstreth4 ,the author gives in detail the various recognized signs for different kinds of weather based primarily on the material worked out by the ,government ,weather ,bureau1 gives rules by which the character and duration of storms may be estimated1 and gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer4 ,he also gives useful information as to various weather averages for different parts of the country1 at different times of the year1 and furnishes sound advice for the camper1 sportsman1 and others who wish to know what they may expect in the weather line4 #dd4 ,,boxing1 by ,d4 ,c4 ,hutchison4 ,practical instruction for men who wish to learn the first steps in the manly art4 ,mr4 ,hutchison writes from long personal experience as an amateur boxer and as a trainer of other amateurs4 ,his instructions are accompanied with full diagrams showing the approved blows and guards4 ,he also gives full directions for training for condition without danger of going stale from overtraining4 ,it is essentially a book for the amateur4 #de4 ,,tennis ,,tactics1 by ,raymond ,d4 ,little4 ,out of his store of experience as a successful tennis player1 ,mr4 ,little has written this practical guide for those who wish to know how real tennis is played4 ,he tells the reader when and how to take the net1 discusses the relative merits of the back-court and volleying game and how their proper balance may be achieved2 analyzes and appraises the twist service1 shows the fundamental necessities of successful doubles play4 #df4 ,,how ,,to ,,play ,,tennis1 by ,james ,burns4 ,this book gives simple1 direct instruction from the professional standpoint on the fundamentals of the game4 ,it tells the reader how to hold his racket1 how to swing it for the various strokes1 how to stand and how to cover the court4 ,these points are illustrated with photographs and diagrams4 ,the author also illustrates the course of the ball in the progress of play and points out the positions of greatest safety and greatest danger4 #dg4 ,,taxidermy1 by ,leon ,l4 ,pray4 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,being a practical taxidermist1 the author at once goes into the question of selection of tools and materials for the various stages of skinning1 stuffing and mounting4 ,the subjects whose handling is described are1 for the most part1 the every-day ones1 such as ordinary birds1 small mammals1 etc41 although adequate instructions are included for mounting big game specimens1 as well as the preliminary care of skins in hot climates4 ,full diagrams accompany the text4 #dh4 ,,the ,,canoe--,,its ,,selection1 ,,care ,,and ,,use1 by ,robert ,e4 ,pinkerton4 ,illustrated with photographs4 ,with proper use the canoe is one of the safest crafts that floats4 ,mr4 ,pinkerton tells how that state of safety may be obtained4 ,he gives full instructions for the selection of the right canoe for each particular purpose or set of conditions4 ,then he tells how it should be used in order to secure the maximum of safety1 comfort and usefulness4 ,his own lesson was learned among the ,indians of ,canada1 where paddling is a high art1 and the use of the canoe almost as much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins4 #di4 ,,horse ,,packing1 by ,charles ,j4 ,post4 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,this is a complete description of the hitches1 knots1 and apparatus used in making and carrying loads of various kinds on horseback4 ,its basis is the methods followed in the ,west and in the ,american ,army4 ,the diagrams are full and detailed1 giving the various hitches and knots at each of the important stages so that even the novice can follow and use them4 ,it is the only book ever published on this subject of which this could be said4 ,full description is given of the ideal pack animal1 as well as a catalogue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are subject4 #ej4 99,,learning ,,to ,,swim1 by ,l4 de ,b4 ,handley4 ,illustrated4 ,constructed especially for the beginner who has no knowledge of the first steps4 ,explains the formation of the strokes1 how to acquire confidence in the water and gives full details as to the various methods1 including those used by experts and racing swimmers4 #ea4 99,,small ,,boat ,,navigation1 by ,lieut4 ,com4 ,f4 ,w4 ,sterling1 ,u4 ,s4 ,n4 ,retired4 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,a complete description of the instruments and methods necessary in navigating small boats in pilot waters1 on soundings1 and off shore4 ,describes the taking of sights for position1 the running of courses1 taking soundings1 using the chart1 plotting compass courses1 etc4 ,several chapters are given over to the seamanship side of navigation1 explaining the handling of small boats under various conditions4 #eb4 99,,touring ,,afoot1 by ,dr4 ,c4 ,p4 ,fordyce4 ,illustrated4 ,this book is designed to meet the growing interest in walking trips and covers the whole field of outfit and method for trips of varying length4 ,various standard camping devices are described and outfits are prescribed for all conditions4 ,it is based on the assumption that the reader will want to carry on his own back everything that he requires for the trip4 #ec4 ,,the ,,marine ,,motor1 by ,lieut4 ,com4 ,f4 ,w4 ,sterling1 ,u4 ,s4 ,n4 7,ret474 ,illustrated with diagrams4 ,this book is the product of a wide experience on the engineering staff of the ,united ,states ,navy4 ,it gives careful descriptions of the various parts of the marine motor1 their relation to the whole and their method of operation2 it also describes the commoner troubles and suggests remedies4 ,the principal types of engines are described in detail with diagrams4 ,the object is primarily to give the novice a good working knowledge of his engine1 its operation and care4 #ed4 99,,the ,,beginner',s ,,bee ,,book1 by ,frank ,c4 ,pellett4 ,illustrated4 ,this book is designed primarily for the small scale bee farmer4 ,it discusses the different varieties of bees and their adaptability to different conditions1 the construction of hives1 care and feeding at various times of the year1 handling of bees1 and the types of locations and feed most suitable for bee culture4 #ee4 99,,the ,,pointer1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,contains chapters on the history and development of the breed1 selection of dog1 breeding1 kenneling1 and training4 ,also contains information on common sense remedies for ordinary diseases4 #ef4 99,,the ,,setter1 by ,williams ,haynes4 ,the author takes up the origin and history of the breed1 its development1 breeding1 kenneling1 and training4 ,he also discusses the various diseases to which they are subject and treatment therefor4 #eg4 99,,practical ,,bait ,,casting1 by ,larry ,st4 ,john4 ,illustrated4 ,this book deals with tackle and methods used in catching black bass4 ,it is based upon a wide and varied experience in the middle ,west1 where more bass fishing is done than in any other part of the country4 ,,all ,,outdoors4 ,a monthly magazine of the outdoors that is made for outdoor men and women4 ,short1 meaty1 to-the-point articles tell the how of living and playing in the open--whether hunting1 fishing1 canoeing1 camping1 ice boating1 skiing1 swimming1 shooting at the traps1 or any other outdoor sport4 ,the adventure stories and fiction are the kind that anyone with red blood likes to read4 ,in addition to the great number of articles and stories in ,,all ,,outdoors is a feature that alone makes the magazine worth its price--pictures4 ,the best of outdoor pictures are used to illustrate it4 ,and each picture has a long caption of concise information4 ,,all ,,outdoors is a magazine that not only radiates the spirit of the woods and fields1 streams and rivers1 but it tells you how to enjoy all these to the fullest4 #ae cents a copy4 #a4jj a year4 ,,yachting4 ,an illustrated monthly magazine devoted to the interest of the man who loves the water--sailing and motor boating4 ,it is written and edited by practical men who have done the things about which they write1 if it be a cruise to ,labrador1 sailing an ocean race or telling how to put a gasoline engine together4 ,under and through all other features of ,,yachting is the call of the water--the bracing1 irresistible appeal that has drawn men off shore since the first cockle-shell was set afloat4 ,once you have heard and answered it you will know why a sailor once is a sailor always--and you will know also why ,,yachting should interest you4 ,the most beautiful yachtsman's magazine4 #ae cents a copy4 #a4ge a year4 ,,outing4 ,for more than thirty years the ,,outing magazine has been the great outdoor publication of ,america4 ,its contributors are national experts in their respective fields4 ,its articles are recognized as the last word on the subject they treat4 ,its range is comprehensive1 covering the entire outdoor realm from gardening to aviation4 ,in every subject that it touches1 whether it be fishing1 hunting1 golfing1 college sports1 the country home1 sailing1 automobiling1 dogs or horses1 its aim is accuracy plus interest4 ,every number combines the solid value of sober fact with the alluring thrill of mystery and adventure that still beckons us to the out-of-doors4 #c4jj a year1 #be;c4 a copy4