,illustration3 ,temple1 ,taormina ,,italy ,,the ,,magic ,,land ,,by ,,lilian ,,whiting ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,florence ,,of ,,landor1 ,,the ,,land ,,of ,,enchantment1 ,,the ,,world ,,beautiful1 ,,etc4 ,and1 under many a yellow star1 ,we dropped into the ,magic ,land6 ,illustrated from ,photographs ,,boston ,,little1 ,,brown1 ,,and ,,company #aijg ,copyright1 #aijg1 ,,by ,,little1 ,,brown1 ,,and ,,company4 ,all rights reserved ,published ,november1 #aijg ,,the ,,griffith-,,stillings ,,press1 ,,boston1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,to ,,ella 7,,mrs4 ,,franklin ,,simmons7 ,,whose ,,earthly ,,form ,,reposes ,,in ,,the ,,beautiful ,,roman ,,cemetery1 ,,where ,,poetic ,,associations ,,with ,,keats ,,and ,,shelley ,,haunt ,,the ,,air1--,,under ,,the ,,sculptured ,,angel ,,of ,,the ,,resurrection1 ,,with ,,its ,,majestic ,,symbolism ,,of ,,the ,,triumph ,,of ,,immortality1--,,but ,,whose ,,radiant ,,presence ,,still ,,transfigures ,,the ,,life ,,that ,,held ,,her ,,in ,,immortal ,,devotion1-- ,,these ,,pages ,,are ,,inscribed1 ,,with ,,the ,,unforgetting ,,love ,,of ,,lilian ,,whiting4 ,,rome1 ,,italy1 ,may ,days1 #aijg4 ,nor ,life is ever lord of ,death1 ,and ,love can never lose its own4 ,,prefatory ,,note ,that ,florence1 the ,flower ,city1 receives only a passing allusion in this record of various impressions that gleam and glow through the days after several visits to the ,magic ,land1 is due to the fact that in a previous volume by the writer--one entitled ,the ,florence of ,landor--the lovely ,tuscan town with its art1 its ineffable beauty1 and its choice social life1 formed the subject matter of that volume4 ,any attempt to portray ,florence in the present book would savor only of the repetition of loves and enthusiasms already recorded in the previous work in which ,walter ,savage ,landor formed the central figure4 ,for that reason no mention of ,florence1 beyond some mere allusion1 is attempted in these pages1 which only aim to present certain fragmentary impressions of various sojourns in ,italy1 refracted through the prism of memory4 ,whatever inconveniences or discomfort attend the traveller swiftly fade1 and leave to him only the precious heritage of resplendent sunset skies1 of poetic association1 of artistic beauty4 ,in spirit he is again lingering through long afternoons in ,st4 ,peter's till the golden light through the far windows of the tribune is merged into the dusk of twilight in which the vast monumental groups gleam wraith-like4 ,again he is ascending the magnificent ,scala ,regia1 and lingering in the ,raphael ,stanze1 or in the wonderful sculpture galleries of the ,vatican1 or sauntering in the sunshine on the ,palatine4 ,in memory he is again spellbound by ancient and medival art4 ,in the line of modern sculpture the work of ,franklin ,simmons in ,rome is a feature of ,italy that haunts the imagination4 ,no lover of beauty would willingly miss his great studios in the ,via ,san ,nicolo da ,tolentino1 with their wealth of ideal creations that contribute new interest to the most divine of all the arts4 ,the world of art is an ideal world1-- ,the world ,i love1 and that ,i fain would live in2 ,so speak to me of artists and of art1 ,of all the painters1 sculptors1 and musicians ,that now illustrate ,rome4 ,the mystic charm of the pilgrimage to ,assisi2 the romance that reflects itself in the violet seas and flaming splendors of the sky on the shores of ,ischia and ,capri2 the buried treasures of ,amalfi2 the magnetic impressiveness of the ,eternal ,city1--all these enter into life as new forces to build and shape the future into undreamed-of destinies4 ,l4 ,w4 ,,the ,,brunswick1 ,,boston1 ,october ,days1 #aijg4 ,,contents ,,page ,i ,,the ,,period ,,of ,,modern ,,art ,,in ,,rome #c ,,ii ,,social ,,life ,,in ,,the ,,eternal ,,city #abg ,,iii ,,day-,,dreams ,,in ,,naples1 ,,amalfi1 ,,and ,,capri #bbg ,,iv ,a ,,page ,,de ,,conti ,,from ,,ischia #bha ,v ,,voices ,,of ,,st4 ,,francis ,,of ,,assisi #cda ,,vi ,,the ,,glory ,,of ,a ,,venetian ,,june #chi ,,vii ,,the ,,magic ,,land #dbc ,,index #dei ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,temple1 ,taormina ,frontispiece in ,photogravure ,angel1 ,church of ,san ,andrea delle ,fratte1 ,rome ,page #ab ,detail from the ,stuart ,monument1 ,st4 ,peter's1 ,rome #bd ,tomb of ,clement ,,xiii1 ,st4 ,peter's1 ,rome #cb ,the ,genius of ,death1 ,detail from the ,tomb of ,clement ,,xiii1 ,st4 ,peter's1 ,rome #dc ,la ,fortuna1 ,accadmia di ,san ,luca1 ,rome #dg ,spanish ,steps1 ,piazza ,trinit dei ,monti1 ,rome #gb ,tomb of ,pio ,nono1 ,san ,lorenzo 7,fuori le ,mura7 ,rome #ge ,the ,dance of the ,pleiades #ib ,grief and ,history1 ,detail from ,naval ,monument1 ,washington #aje ,the ,genius of ,progress ,leading the ,nations #ajh ,mother of ,moses #aab ,valley ,forge #aaf ,la ,pieta1 ,st4 ,peter's1 ,rome #abj ,villa ,medici1 ,rome #acd ,entrance to ,villa ,pamphilia-,doria1 ,rome #aei ,statue of ,christ1 ,ancient ,church of ,san ,martina1 ,rome #aic ,castel ,san ,angelo and ,st4 ,peter's1 ,rome #bjd ,porta ,san ,paola1 ,pyramid of ,caius ,cestius1 ,rome #baf ,castel ,sant',elmo1 ,naples #bca ,ancient ,temple1 ,bai #bda ,ischia1 from the ,sea #bhb ,la ,rocca1 ,ischia #bid ,castello di ,alfonso1 ,ischia #cjf ,detail from ,parnassus1 ,raphael ,stanze1 ,palazzo ,vaticano1 ,rome #caa ,vittoria ,colonna1 ,galleria ,buonarroti1 ,florence #cbj ,san ,francescan ,convent-,church1 ,assisi #cdf ,st4 ,francis d',assisi1 ,the ,duomo1 ,assisi #cff ,santa ,chiara1 ,the ,duomo1 ,assisi #cge ,bai and ,ischia1 from ,camaldoli #chb ,ruins of the ,greek ,theatre1 ,taormina1 ,sicily #dbi ,ponte ,vecchio1 ,florence #dcd ,campo ,santo1 ,genoa #dec ,rest we content if whispers from the stars ,in wafting of the incalculable wind ,come blown at midnight through our prison-bars4 ,,the ,,magic ,,land ,by woodland belt1 by ocean bar1 ,the full south breeze our forehead fanned2 ,and1 under many a yellow star1 ,we dropped into the ,magic ,land4 99 99 99 99 99 ,we heard1 far-off1 the siren's song2 ,we caught the gleam of sea-maids' hair2 ,the glimmering isles and rocks among ,we moved through sparkling purple air4 ,then ,morning rose1 and smote from far ,her elfin harps o'er land and sea2 ,and woodland belt1 and ocean bar ,to one sweet note sighed--,italy6 ,,owen ,,meredith4 ,,italy1 ,,the ,,magic ,,land ,i ,,the ,,period ,,of ,,modern ,,art ,,in ,,rome ,but ah1 that spring should vanish with the ,rose6 ,that youth's sweet-scented manuscript should close8 ,the nightingale that in the branches sang1 ,oh1 where and whither flown again1--who knows8 ,,omar ,,khayyam4 ,,rome1 as the picturesque city of the ,popes in the middle years of the nineteenth century1 was resplendent in local color4 ,it was the ,rome of sunny winters2 the ,rome of gay excursions over that haunted sea of the ,campagna to pictorial points in the ,alban and ,sabine hills2 the ,rome of young artist life1 which organized impromptu festas with ,arcadian freedom1 and utilized the shadow or the shelter of ruined temples or tombs in which to spread its picnic lunches and bring the glow of simple1 friendly intercourse into the romantic lights of the poetic1 historic1 or tragic past4 ,there were splendid ,catholic processions and ceremonials that seemed organized as a part of the stage scenery that ensconced itself1 also1 with the nonchalance of easy possession1 in the vast salons of historic palaces where tapestried walls and richly painted ceilings1 arched high overhead1 with statues dimly seen in niches here and there1 and the bust of some crowned ,antoninus1 or radiant ,juno1 gleaming from a shadowy corner1 all made up the mise-en-scne of familiar evenings4 ,there were lingering hours in the gardens of the ,villa ,medici into whose shades one strolled by that beguiling path along the parapet on ,monte ,pincio1 through the beautiful grove with its walks and fountains4 ,the old ilex bosquet1 with its tangled growth and air of complete seclusion1 had its spell of fascination4 ,then1 as now1 the elevated temple1 at the end of the main path1 seemed the haunt of gods and muses4 ,in all the incidental1 as well as the ceremonial social meeting and mingling1 art and religion were the general themes of discussion4 ,this idyllic life-- ,comprehending1 too1 the soul's ,and all the high necessities of art-- has left its impress on the air as well as its record on many a page of the poet and the romancist4 ,the names that made memorable those wonderful days touch chords of association that still vibrate in the life of the hour4 ,for the most part the artists and their associates have gone their way--not into a ,silent ,land1 a land of shadows and vague1 wandering ghosts--but into that realm wherein is the life more abundant1 of more intense energy and of nobler achievement2 the realm in which every aspiration of earth enlarges its conception and every inspiration is exalted and endowed with new purpose2 the realm where1 as ,browning says1-- ,power comes in full play4 ,the poet's vision recognizes the truth3-- ,i know there shall dawn a day1 --,is it here on homely earth8 ,is it yonder1 worlds away1 ,where the strange and new have birth1 ,that ,power comes in full play8 ,the names of sculptor1 painter1 and poet throng back1 imaged in that retrospective mirror which reflects a vista of the past1 rich in ideal creation4 ,beautiful forms emerge from the marble2 pictorial scenes glow from the canvas2 song and story and happy1 historic days are in the very air4 ,to ,italy1 land of romance and song1 all the artists came trooping1 and ,under many a yellow ,star they dropped into the ,magic ,land4 ,if the wraiths of the centuries long since dead walked the streets1 they were quite welcome to revisit the glimpses of the moon and contribute their mystery to the general artistic effectiveness of the ,seven-hilled ,city4 ,all this group of ,american idealists1 from ,allston and ,page to ,crawford1 ,story1 ,randolph ,rogers1 ,vedder1 ,simmons1 and to the latest comer of all1 ,charles ,walter ,stetson1 recognized something of the artist's native air in this ,mecca of their pilgrimage4 ,it was1 indeed1 quite natural1 on account of the stupendous work of ,michael ,angelo and the unrivalled museums of the ,vatican1 that ,rome should have become pre-eminently the artistic centre of the nineteenth century and should have attracted students and lovers of art from all parts of the world4 ,the immortal works of the two great periods1 the ,greek and the ,renaissance1--the art that was forever great because it was the outgrowth of profound religious conviction1--were enshrined in the churches and the galleries of ,rome4 ,the leading countries of ,europe sent here their aspiring students and established permanent academies for their residence4 ,germany1 ,france1 and ,england were thus represented4 ,thorwaldsen came as a pensioner from the ,academy of ,fine ,arts in ,copenhagen2 and it was during his life1 and that of the noble ,canova1 that ,rome began to be recognized as the modern world-centre of art4 ,was it not a natural sequence that the early painters and sculptors who came to study under the stimulating influences of the great masterpieces of the past should linger on in the city whose very air became to them the breath of inspiring suggestion8 ,where but in ,rome would have come to ,crawford the vision of his ,orpheus and of his noble ,beethoven8 or to ,story his ,libyan ,sibyl1 and that exquisite group1 ,into the ,silent ,land8 or to ,vedder his marvellous creations of ,the ,fates ,gathering in the ,stars1 the ,cuman ,sibyl1 or the ,dance of the ,pleiades8 to ,simmons his triumphant ,angel of the ,resurrection1 and ,the ,genius of ,progress ,leading the ,nations8 or to ,stetson that ineffable vision of ,the ,child1 and that wonderful group called ,music8 whose coloring ,titian or ,giorgione might well mistake for their own4 ,under the ,pontifical rgime the general character of ,rome was medival and religious4 ,the perpetual festas of the church made the streets constantly picturesque with their processions of monks1 and friars1 and priests1 and these wonderful blendings of color and scenic effect stimulated the artistic sense4 ,the expenses of living in ,rome were then only a fraction of what the cost is at the present time2 and as the city was the resort of the wealthy and cultured few1 the artists were surrounded by the stimulus of critical appreciation and of patronage4 ,their work1 their dreams1 were the theme of literary discussion1 and focussed the attention of the polite world4 ,their studios were among the important interests to every visitor in the ,eternal ,city4 ,in those days the traveller did not land with his touring car at ,naples1 make the run to ,rome in a record that distanced any possibilities of railroad trains1 pass two or three days in motoring about the city and its environs1 seeing the exterior of everything in a dissolving view and the interior of nothing1--as within this time1 at least1 he must flash on in his touring car to ,florence4 ,on the contrary1 the traveller proceeded to ,rome with serious deliberation1 and with a more realizing sense of undertaking a journey than ,walter ,wellman experiences in attempting to fly in his aero-car to the ,north ,pole and send his observations across the polar seas by wireless telegraphy4 ,the visitor went to ,rome for a winter1 for a year1 and gave himself up to leisurely impressions4 ,rome was an atmosphere1 not a spectacle1 and it was to be entered with the lofty and reverent appreciation of the poet's power and the artist's vision4 ,in ,rome1 ,thomas ,cole painted some of his best pictures2 and in ,rome or ,florence wrought a long list of painters and sculptors4 ,whether in the ,eternal ,city or in the ,flower ,city1 their environment was alike ,italy--the environment of the ,magic ,land4 ,among the more prominent of all these devotees of ,beauty several nationalities were represented4 ,each might have said of his purpose1 in the words of ,william ,watson3-- ,i follow ,beauty2 of her train am ,i1 ,beauty1 whose voice is earth and sea and air2 ,who serveth1 and her hands for all things ply2 ,who reigneth1 and her throne is everywhere4 ,among these artists there flash upon memory the names of ,vanderlyn1 ,benjamin ,west1 ,allston1 ,rauch1 ,ange1 ,veit1 ,tenerani1 ,overbeck1 ,schadow1 ,horace ,vernet1 ,thorwaldsen1 ,john ,gibson1 ,hiram ,powers1 ,crawford1 ,page1 ,clark ,mills1 ,randolph ,rogers1 ,william ,rinehart1 ,launt ,thompson1 ,horatio and ,richard ,greenough1 ,thomas ,ball1 ,anne ,whitney1 ,larkin ,g4 ,mead1 ,paul ,akers1 ,william ,wetmore ,story1 ,harriet ,hosmer1 ,j4 ,rollin ,tilton1 and1 later1 ,elihu ,vedder1 ,moses ,ezekiel1 ,franklin ,simmons1 ,augustus ,st4 ,gaudens1 and ,charles ,walter ,stetson1 the name of ,mr4 ,stetson linking the long and interesting procession with the immediate life of to-day4 ,of these later artists ,story1 ,miss ,hosmer1 ,ezekiel1 ,vedder1 ,simmons1 and ,stetson are identified with ,rome as being either their permanent or their prolonged residence4 ,mr4 ,st4 ,gaudens was a transient student1 returning to his own country to pursue his work2 and of two young sculptors1 ,hendrick ,christian ,anderson and ,c4 ,percival ,dietsch1 time has not yet developed their powers beyond an experimental stage of brilliant promise4 ,illustration3 ,,angel1 ,,church ,,of ,,san ,,andrea ,,delle ,,fratte1 ,,rome ,giovanni ,lorenzo ,bernini ,page #cb ,the ,rome of the artists of clay and canvas was also the ,rome of the poets and romancists1 of authors in all lines of literary achievement4 ,how the names of the procession of visitors and sojourners in the ,eternal ,city1 from ,milton1 ,goethe1 and ,mme4 de ,stal to ,henry ,james1 ,marion ,crawford1 ,richard ,bagot1 and ,grace ,ellery ,channing 7,mrs4 ,charles ,walter ,stetson71 gleam from that resplendent panorama of the modern past of ,rome6 ,like the words in electric fire that flash out of the darkness in city streets at night1 there shine the names of ,shelley and of ,keats2 of ,gladstone1 on whom in one memorable summer day1 while strolling in ,italian sunshine1 there fell a vision of the sacredness and the significance of life and its infinite responsibility in the fulfilment of lofty purposes4 ,what charming associations these guests and sojourners have left behind6 ,hawthorne1 embodying in immortal romance the spirit of the scenic greatness of the ,eternal ,city2 ,margaret ,fuller1 ,marchesa d',ossoli1 allying herself in marriage with the country she loved1 and living in ,rome those troubled1 mysterious years that were to close the earthly chapter of her life2 ,robert and ,elizabeth ,browning1 the wedded poets1 who sang of love and ,italy2 ,harriet ,beecher ,stowe1 finding on the enchanted ,italian shores the material which she wove with such irresistible attraction into the romance of ,agnes of ,sorrento2 ,longfellow1 with his poet's vision1 transmuting every vista and impression into some exquisite lyric2 ,lowell1 bringing his philosophic as well as his poetic insight to penetrate the untold meaning of ,rome2 ,thomas ,william ,parsons1 making the country of ,dante fairly his own2 ,thackeray1 with his brilliant interpretation of the comdie humaine2 ,emerson1 who1 oblivious of all the glories of art or the joys of nature1 absorbed himself in writing transcendental letters to his eccentric1 but high-souled aunt1 ,mary ,moody ,emerson2 ,ruskin1 translating ,italian art to ,italy herself2 ,dr4 ,samuel ,gridley ,howe and his poet wife1 ,mrs4 ,julia ,ward ,howe1 in the first flush of their bridal happiness1 when ,mrs4 ,howe's impassioned love for the ,seven-hilled ,city inspired many a lyric that mirrors the ,roman atmosphere of that day2 ,kate ,field1 with a young girl's glad enthusiasm over the marvellous loveliness of a ,maytime in ,rome1 and her devotion to those great histrionic artists1 ,ristori and ,salvini2 ,george ,stillman ,hillard1 leaving to literature the rich legacy of his ,six ,months in ,italy1--a work that to this day holds precedence as a clear and comprehensive presentation of the scenic beauty1 the notable monumental and architectural art1 and the general life and resources of this land of painter and poet4 ,other names1 too1 throng upon memory--that of ,william ,dean ,howells1 painting ,italian life in his ,venetian ,days1 and charming all the literary world by his choice art2 and among later work1 the interesting interpretations of ,rome and of social life in ,rome1 by ,marion ,crawford1 ,henry ,james1 and ,richard ,bagot1--in chronicle1 in romance1 or in biographical record4 ,during the last quarter of the nineteenth century1 indeed1 the visitors to ,rome--authors1 artists1 travellers of easy leisure--defy any numerical record4 ,mrs4 ,louise ,chandler ,moulton1 poet1 romancist1 and delightful raconteur as well1 has recorded some charming impressions of her various sojourns in ,rome both in her ,random ,rambles and in ,lazy ,tours4 ,of the ,palatine ,hill we find her saying3-- ,sometimes we go to the ,palace of the ,csars1 and look off upon the heights where the snow lingers and the warm light rests1 making them shine like the ,delectable ,mountains4 ,nearer at hand are the almond trees1 in flower1 or the orange trees1 bright at once with their white1 sweet blossoms and their golden fruit4 ,mrs4 ,moulton writes of the stately dwellers in ,rome whom time cannot change2 and to whom1 whenever she returns1 she makes her first visit2 some of whom are in the mighty palace of the ,vatican and some of whom dwell in state in the ,capitol4 ,the beautiful ,antoninus still wears his crown of lotus in ,villa ,albani and the ,juno whom ,goethe worshipped reigns forever at the ,ludovisi1 she writes2 ,i can never put in words the pleasure ,i find in these immortals4 ,mrs4 ,moulton loved to wander in the ,villa ,borghese before the place is thronged with the beauty and fashion of ,rome as it is in the late afternoon4 ,i do not wonder that ,miriam and ,donatello could forget their fate in these enchanted glades1 she wrote1 and dance as the sunbeams danced with the shadows4 ,sometimes ,i seem to see them where the sun sifts through the young green leaves1 and her beauty--her human1 deep-souled beauty--and his fantastic grace are the only things here that cannot change4 ,the walls will crumble2 the busts of kings and heroes and poets will lose their contours1 the lovely ,roman ladies also grow old and fade1 and vanish from sight and from memory2 but still these two1 hopeless yet happy1 will dance in these wild glades immortally beyond the reach of the effacing years4 ,the visit to ,rome of the ,rev4 ,dr4 ,phillips ,brooks--later the ,bishop of ,massachusetts--is immortalized in the most lifelike portrait bust of the great preacher ever modelled2 a bust in which the genius of the sculptor1 ,franklin ,simmons1 found one of its noblest expressions1 and has perpetuated1 with masterly power1 the energy of thought1 at once profound and intense1 in the countenance of ,bishop ,brooks4 ,these1 and many another whom the gods have loved and dowered with gifts1 rise before any retrospective glance over the comparatively recent past of ,rome4 ,bishop ,brooks passed there the ,holy ,week of one ,lenten season1 and of the ,miserere in the ,sistine ,chapel he wrote that it was certainly the most wonderful music to which he had ever listened2 and he added3-- ,the ,miserere in the ,sistine1 the ,benediction from the balcony1 the solemn moment of the elevation of the ,host on ,easter1 and the illumination of ,st4 ,peter's1 these all seem to reach very remarkably the great ideal of the central religious commemoration of ,christendom4 ,it was in the winter of #ahbh that ,mr4 ,longfellow first visited ,rome1 which is announced1 he wrote1 by ,nero's tomb1 and he quotes ,dupaty's lines3-- ,quoi6 c'est l ,rome8 quoi6 ,c'est le tombeau de ,neron qui l'annonce4 ,mr4 ,longfellow expressed his love for the ,eternal ,city1 and in a personal letter#a he said3-- ,i have been so delighted with ,rome that ,i have extended my residence much beyond my original intention4 ,there is so much in the city to delay the stranger2 the villages in the environs are so beautiful1 and there is such a quiet and stillness about everything that1 were it in my power1 ,i should be induced to remain the whole year round4 ,you can imagine nothing equal to the ruins of ,rome4 ,the ,forum and the ,coliseum are beyond all ,i had ever fancied them2 and the ruined temples and the mouldering aqueducts which are scattered over the ,campagna2 ,i do not believe there is a finer view in the world than that from the eastern gate of the city1 embracing the ,campagna1 with its ruined aqueducts diverging in long broken arcades1 and terminated by the sweep of the ,albanian hills1 sprinkled with their white villages1 and celebrated in song and story6 ,but the great charm of the scene springs from association2 and though everything in ,italy is really picturesque1 yet strip the country of its historic recollections1--think merely of what it is1 and not of what it has been1--and you will find the dream to be fading away4 ,you would be shocked at the misery of the people1 especially in the ,pope's dominions3 but their element seems to be in rags and misery2 and with the ceremonials of their religion and the holidays of the church1 which average nearly three a week1 they are poor--and lazy and happy4 ,i mean1 happy in their way4 ,in a later visit the poet was domiciled in an hotel on the ,piazza ,barberini1 where the wonderful view included then the entire city to where ,st4 ,peter's dome darkens against the sunset4 ,of this visit his brother1 ,rev4 ,samuel ,longfellow1 writes3-- ,here ,mr4 ,longfellow became for the season the centre of the group of ,american visitors and resident artists1 whose well-known names need not be recounted4 ,here he made1 also1 acquaintances among the ,italians1--especially the ,duke of ,sermoneta1 the ,dantean scholar1 and ,monsignore ,nardi1 of the papal court4 ,the ,pope himself he did not visit4 ,an interesting acquaintance was that made with the ,abb ,liszt1 who was spending the winter in ,rome1 having rooms in the abandoned ,convent of ,santa ,francesca1 in the ,forum4 ,calling there one evening1 in company with ,mr4 ,healy the artist1 the inner door of the apartment was opened to them by ,liszt himself1 holding high in his hand a candle which illuminated his fine face4 ,the picture was so striking that ,mr4 ,longfellow begged his companion to put it upon canvas1--which he did2 and the painting now hangs in the library of ,craigie ,house4 ,at a morning visit1 ,liszt delighted the party with a performance upon his ,chickering pianoforte4 ,to see ,rome1 as all travellers know1 is a work for many months2 and it was pursued with tolerable diligence4 ,but ,mr4 ,longfellow was never a good sight-seer4 ,he was impatient of lingering in picture galleries1 churches1 or ruins4 ,he saw quickly the essential points1 and soon tired of any minuter examination4 ,but long1 indeed1 before nineteenth-century artists and authors laid siege to the ,eternal ,city1 in the far-away years of #afch1 ,milton visited ,rome1 and there still remains the tablet1 on the wall of the casa in the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane in which he stayed1 a tablet bearing an inscription giving the date of his visit2 as1 also1 in ,via ,machella1 there is an inscription marking the place where ,scott lived during his visit to ,rome4 ,goethe made his memorable tour to ,italy in #aghf--;fourteen years before the dawn of the nineteenth century--and wrote3 ,i feel the greatest longing to read ,tacitus in ,rome2 and again 7an observation with which every visitor to the ,eternal ,city will sympathize7 he noted3-- ,it grows more and more difficult for me to render an account of my residence in ,rome1 for as we always find the sea deeper the further we go1 so it is with me in observation of this city4444 ,wherever we go and wherever we stand1 we see about us a finished picture1--forms of every kind and style2 palaces and ruins2 gardens and wastes2 the distant and the near houses2 triumphal arches and columns1--often all so close together that they might be sketched on a single sheet4 ,one should have a thousand points of steel with which to write1 and what can a single pen do8 and then in the evening one is weary and exhausted with the day of seeing and admiring4 ,here one reads history from within outward4 ,chateaubriand1 who in his earliest youth had visited ,america as the guest of ,washington1 passed the winter of #ahjc-d in ,rome1 and his pictorial transcriptions of the city and its environs are among the most exquisite things in literary record4 ,as1 for instance1 this description of a sunset from ,monte ,mario3-- ,i was never weary of seeing1 from the ,villa ,borghese1 the sun go down behind the cypresses of ,monte ,mario1 and the pines of the ,villa ,pamphili planted by ,le ,notre4 ,i have stood upon the ,ponte ,molle to enjoy the sublime spectacle of the close of day4 ,the summits of the ,sabine hills appeared of lapis lazuli and pale gold1 while their bases and sides were bathed in vapors of violet or purple4 ,sometimes lovely clouds1 like fairy cars1 borne along by the evening wind with inimitable grace1 recall the mythological tales of the descent of the deities of ,olympus4 ,sometimes old ,rome seems to have spread all over the west the purple of her consuls and her ,csars1 beneath the last steps of the god of day4 ,this rich decoration does not vanish so quickly as in our climate4 ,when we think the hues are about to disappear they revive on some other point of the horizon2 one twilight follows another and the magic of sunset is prolonged4 ,it was in the same year that ,mme4 de ,stal visited ,rome and recorded1 in her glowing romance1 ,corinne1 the impressions she received4 ,in the spring of #ahag ,lord ,byron found in ,rome the inspiration that he transmitted into that wonderful line in ,childe ,harold3-- ,the ,niobe of ,nations6 ,there she stands4 ,it was two years later that ,shelley passed the spring in the ,seven-hilled ,city1 retiring to ,leghorn later1 to write his tragedy of ,the ,cenci4 ,in ,rome the visitor follows ,michael ,angelo and ,raphael through the various churches and museums4 ,the celebrated sibyls of ,raphael are in the ,santa ,maria della ,pace2 his ,isaiah is in ,san ,agostino and his ,entombment in the ,casino of the ,villa ,borghese4 ,while the sublime work of ,michael ,angelo in the ,sistine ,chapel is always one of the first things in ,rome to which the traveller goes to study that incomparable work portraying the ,creation--the ,prophets and the ,sibyls1 the ,angels and the ,genii1 that record the impassioned power of the master--yet all footsteps turn quickly1 too1 to the church called ,san ,pietro in ,vincoli1 near the house in which ,lucrezia ,borgia lived1 in which is the colossal ,moses of ,michael ,angelo4 ,as it stands1 it fails to convey the first design of the great sculptor4 ,originally intended for the tomb of ,pope ,julius ,,ii1 the plan included a massive block of marble 7some forty by twenty feet7 surmounted by a cornice and having its niches1 its columns1 and its statues1 of which the ,moses was to have been one4 ,it would then have been judged relatively to the entire group1 while now it is seen alone1 and thus out of the proportions that were in the mind of the artist4 ,the entire conception1 indeed1 was to unite sculpture and architecture into one splendid combination4 ,thus the statue of ,moses was meant to have been raised considerably above the eye of the spectator1 writes ,mr4 ,hillard1 and to have been a single object in a colossal structure of architecture and sculpture1 which would have had a foreground and a background1 and been crowned with a mass at once dome-like and pyramidal4 ,torn1 as it is1 from its proper place2 divorced from its proportionate companionship2 stuck against the wall of a church2 and brought face to face with the observer1--what wonder that so many of those who see it turn away with no other impressions than those of caricature and exaggeration6 ,mr4 ,hillard adds3-- ,but who that can appreciate the sublime in art will fail to bow down before it as embodied in this wonderful statue8 ,the majestic character of the head1 the prodigious muscles of the chest and arms1 and the beard that flows like a torrent to the waist1 represent a being of more than mortal port and power1 speaking with the authority1 and frowning with the sanctions of incarnate law4 ,the drapery of the lower part of the figure is inferior to the anatomy of the upper part4 ,remarkable as the execution of the statue is1 the expression is yet more so2 for notwithstanding its colossal proportions1 its prominent characteristic is the embodiment of intellectual power4 ,it is the great leader and lawgiver of his people that we see1 whose voice was command1 and whose outstretched arm sustained a nation's infant steps4 ,he looks as if he might control the energies of nature as well as shape the mould in which the character of his people should be formed4 ,that any one should stand before this statue in a scoffing mood is to me perfectly inexplicable4 ,my own emotions were more nearly akin to absolute bodily fear4 ,at an irreverent word1 ,i should have expected the brow to contract into a darker frown1 and the marble lips to unclose in rebuke4 ,illustration3 ,,detail ,,from ,,stuart ,,monument1 ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,rome ,antonio ,canova ,page #cc ,william ,watson condenses his impressions of this majestic sculpture in the following quatrain4-- ,the captain's might1 and mystery of the seer-- ,remoteness of ,jehovah's colloquist1 ,nearness of man's heaven-advocate--are here3 ,alone ,mount ,nebo's harsh foreshadow is miss'd4 ,the impressive group of sculptures and buildings on the ,campidoglio--where once the shrine of ,jupiter ,capitolinus stood--owes its present picturesque scheme largely to ,michael ,angelo4 ,the fascination of the long flights of steps leading from the ,piazza ,araceli to the ,capitoline1 where the ancient bronze equestrian statue of ,marcus ,aurelius forever keeps guard1 is indescribable4 ,the historic statues of ,castor and ,pollux mark the portals2 on either hand there are seen the ,muses of ancient sculpture1 the ,palazzo ,senatoriale and the ,palazzo dei ,conservatori4 ,there is in the entire world no more classic ground than is found in this impressive grouping of art and architecture4 ,the genius of ,raphael has recorded itself in those brilliant and imperishable works that enthrall the student of art in the ,raphael stanze in the ,vatican4 ,he was imbued with the spirit of ,greek art1 and while ,titian is a greater colorist1 while ,correggio1 ,botticelli1 ,perugino1 and other artists that could be named equal or exceed ,raphael in certain lines1 yet as the interpreter of the profoundest thought1 and for his philosophic grasp and his power to endow his conceptions with the most brilliant animation1 he stands alone4 ,the religious exaltation of ,the ,transfiguration reveals the supreme degree of the divine genius of ,raphael4 ,that this painting was the last work of his life1 that it was placed above his body as it lay in state1 and was carried in his funeral procession1 invests it with peculiar interest4 ,as a draftsman ,raphael was second only to ,michael ,angelo1 with whom he must forever share the immortality of fame4 ,the ,academy in ,venice holds some of his choicest drawings1 and in the ,venetian sketch-book in the ,national ,gallery in ,london are many of his small pictures1 including that of the ,knight's ,dream4 ,it was in the autumn of #aejh1 when ,raphael was in his twenty-fifth year1 that he was called to ,rome in the service of the ,pope4 ,the ,pontiff at this time was ,pope ,julius ,,ii1 whose successor was ,leo ,x1 and under their pontificates 7from #aejh to #aebj7 ,raphael produced these masterpieces which stand unrivalled in the world save by the creations of ,michael ,angelo in the ,capella ,sistina4 ,the celebrated ,four ,sibyls of ,raphael are not1 however1 in the stanze of the ,vatican1 but in the ,church of ,san ,maria della ,pace4 ,in the ,palazzo ,vaticano these four wonderful stanze entrance the visitor2 the ,stanza della ,signatura1 the ,stanza d',eliodoro1 the ,stanza dell',incendio and the ,sala di ,constantino4 ,for the decoration of these stanze several painters from ,umbria had been summoned1--,perugino1 ,sodoma1 ,signorelli1 and others2 but when ,raphael had produced the ,disputa in the ,sala della ,signatura1 ,pope ,julius ,,ii recognized the work as so transcendent that he ordered the other artists to cease and even had some of their paintings obliterated that there might be more space for the exercise of ,raphael's genius4 ,in the ,disputa are glorified the highest expressions of the human intellect--the domain portrayed being that of ,theology1 ,philosophy1 ,poetry1 and ,justice4 ,the splendor of this creation transcends all attempts of interpretation in language4 ,against a background of gold mosaic are portrayed these typical figures enthroned on clouds where genii flit to and fro bearing tablets with inscriptions4 ,theology holds in the left hand a book1 while the other points to the vision of angels2 ,poetry1 laurel-crowned1 is seen seated on a throne with books and lyre2 ,philosophy wears a diadem1 and ,justice1 with her balance and her sword1 is also crowned4 ,the title of this marvellous work is misleading4 ,its message is not that of disputation but of beatitude4 ,at the altar are grouped the congregation2 the mystic spell of heavenly enthusiasm enfolds the scene as an atmosphere1 as above the heavens open and the glorified ,christ1 surrounded by the saints who have kept the faith1 is disclosed to the devotees kneeling below1 while a choir of listening angels bend over them from the distant clouds in the background4 ,under ,poetry are grouped ,apollo and the ,muses1 and the figures of ,homer1 ,dante and ,virgil1 of ,petrarcha1 ,anacreon and ,sappho1 of ,pindar and of ,horace are recognized4 ,the great scholars seen in the ,philosophy include ,plato and ,aristotle1 while in the groups under ,justice1 ,moses and ,solon are seen4 ,raphael seems to have never known despair1 remarked ,franklin ,simmons of the work of this divine genius4 ,his paintings reveal no struggle1 but seem to have been produced without effort1 as if brought into existence by an enchanter's wand4 ,no observation could more vividly interpret the wonderful effect produced on the student by ,raphael1 and he cannot but recall the truth expressed in these lines of ,festus3-- ,all aspiration is a toil2 ,but inspiration cometh from above ,and is no labor4 ,the inspiration of ,raphael was of the noblest order4 ,his genius1 his kindling enthusiasm1 his ecstasy of religious devotion1 have left an imperishable heritage to art4 ,by his transcendent gifts he represents the highest manifestation of the art of painting in the ,renaissance4 ,for the true note in art lies in spiritual perception4 ,not so brilliant a colorist as ,titian1 he was more the interpreter of the extension of human activity into that realm of the life more abundant1 and with his extraordinary facility of execution he united exquisite refinement and unerring sense of beauty and the masterly power in composition that fairly created for the spectator the visions that his soul beheld4 ,i say to you1 said ,mr4 ,bryce recently in a press interview1--,i say to you1 each oncoming tide of life requires and needs men of lofty thought who shall dream for it1 sing for it1 who shall gather up its tendencies1 formulate its ideals and voice its spirit4 ,one of those men of lofty thought who thus dream for the ages was ,raphael1 and his power and glory have left an ineffaceable impress upon human life4 ,he was the divinely appointed messenger of beauty1 and he was never disobedient to the heavenly vision4 ,time hath no tide but must abide ,the servant of ,thy will2 ,tide hath no time1 for to ,thy rhyme ,the ranging stars stand still4 ,the decline of art after ,michael ,angelo and ,raphael was marked4 ,the very splendor and power of their creations1 instead of inspiring those who immediately followed them1 produced almost the inertia of despair4 ,in the reverence and awe and admiration with which these transcendent masterpieces were approached any power to originate seemed futile by contrast4 ,imitation rather than creation became the method adopted1 resulting in an increased poverty of design and feeble execution4 ,the art of the sixteenth century deteriorated rapidly till the baroco style was in evidence4 ,one reason1 too1 for the decline was in that art was no longer so exclusively dedicated to the high service of religion1 but aimed1 instead1 to please and to procure patrons1 and thus were all worthy standards lowered to pernicious levels4 ,a sculptor who left his impress upon the sixteenth-century art was ,lorenzo ,bernini1 a ,neapolitan 7born in #aeih7 who died in ,rome in #afhe4 ,the work of ,bernini has a certain fascination and airy touch that1 while it sometimes degenerates into the merely fantastic and even into tawdry and puerile affectations1 has at its best a refinement and grace that lend to his sculptures an enduring charm1 as seen in his ,apollo and ,daphne 7a work executed in his eighteenth year7 which is now in the ,casino of the ,villa ,borghese4 ,bernini's name is perpetuated in the colossal statues on the colonnade of ,st4 ,peter's1 the great bronze angels with their draperies streaming to the winds on the ,ponte ,san ,angelo1 and in the vast fountain in the ,piazza ,navona4 ,in the court of the ,palazzo ,bernini is one of the most interesting of his works--a colossal figure1 allegorical in significance1 illustrating ,truth ,brought to ,light by ,time4 ,one of the most important works of ,bernini--now placed in the ,museo ,nazionale--is the group of ,pluto and ,proserpine4 ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,,clement ,,xiii1 ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,rome ,antonio ,canova ,page #db ,the influence that was to reform and regenerate the art of sculpture in the sixteenth century came with the great and good ,canova1 with which was united that of ,flaxman and of ,thorwaldsen4 ,the heavenly messengers are always sent and appear at the time they are most needed4 ,neither ,truth nor ,art is ever left without a witness4 ,god sends his teachers unto every age1 ,to every clime1 and every race of men1 ,with revelations fitted to their growth ,and shape of mind2 nor gives the realm of truth ,into the selfish rule of one sole race4 ,canova's genius and services were widely recognized4 ,in #agai he was made a ,senator2 he was ennobled with the title of ,marchese of ,ischia and granted a yearly allowance of three thousand scudi2 and his noble and generous enthusiasms1 not less than his genius1 have left their record on life as well as on art4 ,when he died 7in ,venice1 ,oct4 #c1 #ahbb7 his work included fifty-nine statues1 fourteen groups1 twenty-two monuments1 and fifty-four busts4 ,the statue of ,pius ,v and the tomb of ,clement ,,xiii are his greatest works1 and the latter is perhaps even increasingly held as a masterpiece of the ages4 ,canova1 warned by the fatal influence of imitation in art in the sixteenth century1 frequently counselled his pupils against copying his own style and constantly urged them to study from the ,greeks4 ,he advised them to visit frequently the studios of other artists1 and especially1 he would add1 the studios of ,thorwaldsen1 who is a very great artist4 ,in the early part of the nineteenth century contemporary sculpture in ,rome was led by the three great artists1--,canova1 ,thorwaldsen1 and ,gibson4 ,in #ahbi ,gibson had the honor of being elected a member of the ,accadmia di ,san ,luca in place of the sculptor ,massimiliano1 who had then just died4 ,cammuccini1 the historical painter1 proposed ,gibson1 and with the ardent assistance of ,thorwaldsen he was elected resident ,academician of merit4 ,like ,canova1 ,thorwaldsen was most generous to young artists1 says ,gibson of the great ,danish master1 and he freely visited all who required his advice4 ,i profited greatly by the knowledge which this splendid sculptor had of his art4 ,on every occasion when ,i was modelling a new work he came to me1 and corrected whatever he thought amiss4 ,i also often went to his studio and contemplated his glorious works1 always in the noblest style1 full of pure and severe simplicity4 ,his studio was a safe school for the young1 and was the resort of artists and lovers of art from all nations4 ,the old man's person can never be forgotten by those who saw him4 ,tall and strong1--he never lost a tooth in his life1--he was most venerable looking4 ,his kind countenance was marked with hard thinking1 his eyes were gray1 and his white locks lay upon his broad shoulders4 ,at great assemblies his breast was covered with orders4 ,thorwaldsen 7born in ,copenhagen1 ,nov4 #ai1 #aggj7 went to ,rome in #agig--sent by the government of ,denmark as a pensioner4 ,it is said that1 in his enthusiasm for ,rome1 ,thorwaldsen dated his birth from the hour he entered the ,eternal ,city4 ,before that day1 he exclaimed1 ,i existed2 ,i did not live4 ,for nearly fifty years--until his death in #ahdd--;he lived and worked in ,rome1 occupying at one time the studio in ,via ,babuino that had formerly been that of ,flaxman4 ,john ,gibson1 who went to ,rome in #ahag1--twenty years after ,thorwaldsen first arrived1--had the good fortune to be for five years a pupil of ,canova1 whose death in #ahbb terminated this inestimable privilege4 ,the elevation of purpose that characterized the young ,english student made his progress and development a matter of peculiar interest to the master4 ,gibson1 also1 bears his testimony to the stimulus of the ,roman environment4 ,rome above all other cities1 he says1 has a peculiar influence upon and charm for the real student2 he feels himself in the very university of art1 where it is the one thing talked about and thought about4 ,constantly did ,i feel the presence of this influence4 ,every morning ,i rose with the sun1 my soul gladdened by a new day of a happy and delightful pursuit2 and as ,i walked to my breakfast at the ,caff ,greco and watched with new pleasure the tops of the churches and palaces gilt by the morning sun1 ,i was inspired with a sense of daily renovated youth1 and fresh enthusiasm1 and returned joyfully to the combat1 to the invigorating strife with the difficulties of art4 ,nor did the worm of envy creep round my heart whenever ,i saw a beautiful idea skilfully executed by any of my young rivals1 but constantly spurred on by the talent around me ,i returned to my studio with fresh resolution4 ,again to a friend ,gibson writes3-- ,i renewed my visits to the ,vatican1 refreshing my spirits in that ,pantheon of the gods1 demigods1 and heroes of ,hellas4444 ,in the art of sculpture the ,greeks were gods4444 ,in the ,vatican we go from statue to statue1 from fragment to fragment1 like the bee from flower to flower4 ,these five years in which ,canova1 ,thorwaldsen1 and ,gibson lived and wrought together--although the youngest of this trio was still in his student life--form a definite period in the history of modern art in ,rome4 ,the dreams1 the enthusiasm1 the devotion to ideal beauty which characterized their work left its impress and its vitality of influence--a mystic power ready to incarnate itself again through the facility of expression of the artists yet to come4 ,to the young men whose steps were turned toward ,rome in these early years of the century just passed1 how great was the privilege of coming into close range of the influence of such artists as these2 to study their methods2 to hear the expression of their views on art in familiar meeting and conversation6 ,these artists were closely in touch with that lovely and faithful dream which came with ,italian ,renaissance in the works of ,pisani1 ,mino di ,fiesole1 ,donatello1 ,michael ,angelo1 and ,giovanni da ,bologna--all who caught the spirit of ,greek art4 ,artistic truth was the keynote of the hour1 and it is this truth which is the basis of the highest conception of life4 ,art's a service1--mark3 ,a silver key is given to thy clasp ,and thou shalt stand unwearied night and day1 ,and fix it in the hard1 slow-turning wards ,to open1 so that intermediate door ,betwixt the different planes of sensuous form ,and form insensuous1 that inferior men ,may learn to feel on still through these to those1 ,and bless thy ministration4 ,the world waits for help4 ,in their true relation art and ethics meet in their ministry to humanity1 for only in their union can they best serve man4 ,all the nobler culture has its responsibility in service4 ,many a man has a blind notion of stewardship about his property1 but very few have it about their knowledge1 said ,bishop ,phillips ,brooks1 and he added3 ,one grows tired of seeing cultivated people with all their culture cursed by selfishness4 ,to the true idealist--as distinct from the mere emotionalist with sthetic tastes--selfishness is an impossible prison4 ,the only spiritual freedom lies in the perpetual sharing of the fuller life4 ,the gift shared is the gift doubled4 ,art is the spiritual glory of life2 the supreme manifestation1 the very influence of spiritual achievement4 ,mr4 ,stillman1 discussing the revival of art1 has questioned3 ,does the world want art any longer8 ,has it1 in the present state of human progress1 any place which will justify devotion to it8 ,he questions as to whether man is still ,apparelled in celestial light1 or whether he has lost the glory and the freshness of his dreams4 ,no one can admit1 continues ,mr4 ,stillman1 that the human intellect is weaker than it was five or twenty centuries ago2 but it is certain that if we take the pains to study what was done five centuries ago in painting1 or twenty centuries ago in sculpture1 and compare it with the best work of to-day1 we shall find the latter trivial and 'prentice work compared with the ordinary work of men whose names are lost in the lustre of a school4 ,then1 little men inspired by the ,zeitgeist1 painted greatly2 now1 our great men fail to reach the technical achievement of the little men of them4 ,there is only one living painter who can treat a portrait as a ,venetian artist of #aeej ,a4,d4 would have done it1 and how differently in the mastery of his material6 ,if we go to the work of wider range1 the ,campo ,santo of ,pisa1 the ,stanze1 the ,sistine ,chapel1 the distance becomes an abyss2 the simplest fragment of a ,greek statue of #dej ,b4,c4 shows us that the best sculpture of this century1 even the ,french1 is only a happy child-work1 not even to be put in sight of ,donatello or ,michael ,angelo4 ,the reason is simple1 and already indicated4 ,the early men grew up in a system in which the power of expression was taught from childhood2 they acquired method as the musician does now1 and the tendency of the opinion of their time was to keep them in the good method4 ,is this not too narrow and sweeping a judgment8 ,the art of portraiture certainly did not die with the ,venetian painters of #aeej1 however great their work2 and if there be but one living painter who can treat portrait art like the early ,venetians1 there are scores of artists who achieve signal success by other methods of treatment4 ,at all events1 these three men1 ,canova1 ,thorwaldsen1 and ,gibson1 worked with the conviction that art is service4 ,with ,victor ,hugo1 ,canova could have said3 ,genius is not made for genius2 it is made for men4444 ,let him have wings for the infinite provided he has feet for the earth1 and that1 after having been seen flying1 he is seen walking4 ,after he has been seen an archangel1 let him be still more a brother4444 ,to be the servant of ,god in the march of progress--such is the law which regulates the growth of genius4 ,they worked and taught by this creed4 ,thorwaldsen1 on first arriving in ,rome1 wandered for three years1 it is said1 among the statues of gods and heroes1 like a man in a dream4 ,the atmosphere of the earlier day when ,titian was employed by the king of ,portugal and ,raphael by the ,pope to create works of great public importance still lingered and exerted over ,thorwaldsen1 and over all artists susceptible to its subtle influence1 a peculiar spell4 ,its power was revealed in his subsequent works--the ,christ2 the sculptured groups for tombs in ,st4 ,peter's and in other churches2 the poetic reliefs symbolizing ,day and ,night2 ,ganymede ,watering the ,eagle2 the ,three ,graces1 ,hebe1 and many others4 ,among ,canova's works his immortal masterpiece is the monumental memorial group for the tomb of ,pope ,clement ,,xiii in ,st4 ,peter's4 ,the ,pope is represented as kneeling in prayer4 ,the modelling of the entire figure is instinct with expression4 ,the fine and beautiful hands express reverence and trust4 ,the countenance is pervaded with that peace only known to the soul that is in complete harmony with the divine power4 ,the ,holy ,father has taken the tiara from his head and it lies before him on the cushion on which he kneels4 ,although the entire portrayal of the figure reveals that devotion expressed in the solemn and searching words of the church service1 ,and here we offer and present unto thee1 ,o ,lord1 ourselves1 our souls and bodies to be a reasonable1 holy1 and living sacrifice unto thee1--although it is the very utmost rendering of the soul to ,god1 it is yet the deliberate1 the joyful1 the living acceptance of divine love and no mere trance of ecstasy4 ,no more wonderful figure in all the range of sculpture has been created than the ,clement ,,xiii of ,canova4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,genius ,,of ,,death1 ,,detail ,,from ,,tomb ,,of ,,clement ,,xiii1 ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,rome ,antonio ,canova ,page #dc ,the group is completed by two symbolic figures representing ,religion and ,death4 ,the former is personified as a female figure holding a cross2 the latter sits with his torch reversed4 ,grief1 but not hopeless and despairing sorrow1 is portrayed2 it is the grief companioned by faith which ever sees ,the stars shine through the cypress trees4 ,the base of the monument represents a chapel guarded by lions4 ,pistolesi1 the great ,italian authority on the sculpture of ,st4 ,peter's and the ,vatican galleries1 notes that the lions typify the firmness and the force and the courage1 la fortezza dell'anima1 that so signally characterized ,clement ,,xiii4 ,there is probably no sacred monument in the realm of all modern art which can equal this creation in its delicacy1 its lofty beauty1 and the noble message that it conveys4 ,the oldest art school1 the ,accadmia di ,san ,luca1 founded in #aejg by ,sixtus1 when he called to ,rome all the leading artists of ,europe to assist in the decoration of the ,sistine ,chapel1 is an organization that magically links the present with the days of ,canova1 ,thorwaldsen1 and ,gibson1 as it linked them1 also1 with the remote and historic past4 ,the father of the present custodian of the ,academy knew ,thorwaldsen well4 ,the grandfather of the gifted ,italian sculptor1 ,tadolini 7who has recently completed the tomb for ,pope ,leo ,,xiii1 placed in the ,basilica of ,san ,giovanni ,laterano71 modelled the bust of ,thorwaldsen1 and in one gallery hangs the great ,danish sculptor's portrait1 painted by himself4 ,the first director of ,san ,luca was ,federigo ,zuccaro4 ,in the early years of the nineteenth century this ,academy was a vital centre of art life1 and it is still a school that draws students1 although the visitor who does not loiter and linger in his ,rome may fail to know of this most alluring place4 ,the ,san ,luca is in the ,via ,bonella1 one of the old1 dark1 narrow1 and gloomy streets of the oldest part of ,rome1--a short street of hardly more than two blocks1 running between the ,via ,alessandra and the ,forum4 ,hawthorne vividly pictures all this old ,rome when he speaks of the narrow1 crooked1 intricate streets1 so uncomfortably paved with little squares of lava that to tread over them is a penitential pilgrimage2 so indescribably ugly1 moreover2 so cold1 so alley-like1 into which the sun never falls and where a chill wind forces its deadly breath into our lungs2 the immense seven-storied1 yellow-washed hovels1 or call them palaces1 where all that is dreary in domestic life seems magnified and multiplied2 those staircases which ascend from a ground floor of cook shops and cobblers' stalls1 stables and regiments of cavalry1 to a middle region of princes1 cardinals1 and ambassadors1 and an upper tier of artists just beneath the unattainable sky3 444 in which the visitor becomes sick at heart of ,italian trickery1 which has uprooted whatever faith in man's integrity had till then endured2 the city crushed down in spirit by the desolation of her ruin and the hopelessness of her future2 one recalls these words when passing through the unspeakable gloom and horror and desolation and squalor of ancient ,rome4 ,in these surroundings one's cab stops at ,no4 #dd1 and ringing the bell the door is open1 whether by super-normal agency or by some invisible terrestrial manipulation one is unable to determine2 but in the semi-darkness of the narrow hall he discerns before him a flight of steep stairs1 and1 as no other vista opens1 he reasons that1 by the law of exclusion1 this must be the appointed way4 ,along the wall are seen1 here and there1 some antique casts from ,trajan's ,column1 and reliefs from ,canova and ,thorwaldsen4 ,the galleries above hold only a small and a comparatively unimportant collection of pictures4 ,there are marines from ,vernet and ,claude ,lorraine2 a ,venus ,crowned by the ,graces from ,rubens2 ,giulio ,romano's copy of ,raphael's ,galatea1--the original of which 7in the ,villa ,farnesina7 represents ,galatea surrounded by ,nymphs1 ,cupids1 and ,tritons1 being carried in a shell across the sea4 ,there is a ,cupid1 and also the ,fortuna of ,guido ,reni1--the latter a figure of ineffable grace floating in the air4 ,one of ,raphael's early works representing ,st4 ,luke ,painting the ,madonna is here4 ,there are several works by ,titian1 but these have less than would be expected of the glory usually associated with his name2 and a ,vandyke representing the ,virgin and ,child1 with two angels playing1 the one on a lute1 the other on the violin4 ,illustration3 ,,la ,,fortuna1 ,,accad,,mia ,,di ,,san ,,luca1 ,,rome ,guido ,reni ,page #dg ,one salon filled with portraits of artists is especially interesting1 and that of ,thorwaldsen is so feminine in its costume and the parting of the hair1 that it is almost inevitably mistaken for that of a woman4 ,guido's graceful ,fortuna is represented as a female figure flying through the air1 her long hair streaming in the wind1 and the picture recalls to one the ,greek legend of ,opportunity1 as told by ,kainos4 ,the legend runs3-- ',of what town is thy sculptor8' ',of ,lukzon4' ',what is his name8' ',lysippos4' ',and thine8' ',opportunity1 controller of all things4' ',but why standest thou on tiptoe8' ',i am always running4' ',why1 then1 hast thou wings on both feet8' ',i fly like the wind4' ',but wherefore bearest thou a razor in thy right hand8' ',as a sign to men that ,i am sharper than any steel4' ',and why wearest thou thy hair long in front8' ',that ,i may be seized by him who approaches me4' ',by ,zeus6 ,and thou art bald behind8' ',because once ,i have passed with my winged feet no one may seize me then4' ,from one landing1 on the steep narrow staircase of ,san ,luca1 opens the ,biblioteca ,sarti1 an art library of some fifteen thousand volumes4 ,the sculpture gallery is now closed and can only be entered by special permission4 ,this is the more to be regretted as it contains the principal collections in ,rome of the original casts of the works of ,thorwaldsen and ,canova4 ,the latter-day artists who have been setting up their ,lares and ,penates in ,rome at various periods during the early and into the later years of the nineteenth century have found the ,eternal ,city in strong contrast with its twentieth-century aspects1 however it may have differed from the ,rome of the ,popes4 ,the earlier ,american artists to seek the ,seven-hilled ,city were painters2 and ,allston1 ,copley1 and ,stuart had already distinguished themselves in pictorial art before ,america had produced any sculptor who could read his title clear to fame4 ,it is to ,hiram ,powers 7born in ,vermont in #ahje7 that ,america must look as her first sculptor1 chronologically considered1 closely followed by ,thomas ,crawford1 who was but eight years his junior1 and by ,horatio ,greenough1 who was also born in the same year as ,powers1 and who preceded him in ,italy1 but whose work has less artistic value4 ,mr4 ,greenough has left a colossal 7if not an artistic7 monument to his gifts in stately shaft marking ,bunker ,hill which he designed4 ,problematic in their claim to artistic excellence as are his ,washington--a seated figure in the grounds of the ,capitol in ,washington--and his group in relief called ,the ,rescue in the portico of the ,capitol1 his name lives by his personality as a man of liberal culture and noble character1 if not by his actual rank in art4 ,first of the ,american group in ,italy1 he was followed by ,powers1 who sought the ineffable beauty and enchantment of ,florence in #ahcg4 ,horatio ,greenough died in comparatively early life1 leaving perhaps the most interesting of his works in a relief 7purchased by ,professor ,george ,ticknor1 the distinguished historian of ,spain7 representing in touching beauty and expression a sculptor in an attitude of dejection and discouragement before his work1 while a hand from above pours oil into his dying lamp1 an allegory illustrative of the struggles of genius and the relief which timely patronage may extend to it4 ,mr4 ,powers passed his entire life in ,florence4 ,his work attracted great attention and inspired ardent appreciation4 ,in portrait busts ,powers was especially successful2 and his ,greek ,slave1 his ,fisher ,boy1 ,il ,penseroso1 and ,proserpine impressed the art-loving public of the time as marked by strong artistic power and as entitled to permanent rank in sculpture4 ,mr4 ,crawford died young2 but his name lives in the majestic bronze statue of ,beethoven which is in the beautiful white and gold interior of ,symphony ,hall1 in ,boston2 and his ,orpheus and some other works claim high appreciation4 ,writing of ,crawford1 ,mr4 ,hillard said3-- ,crawford's career was distinguished by energy1 resolution1 and self-reliance4 ,while yet a youth1 he formed the determination to make himself an artist2 and with this view went to ,rome--alone1 unfriended1 and unknown--and there began a life of toil and renunciation2 resisting the approaches alike of indolence and despondency4 ,his strength of character and force of will would have earned distinction for powers inferior to his4 ,nothing was given to self-indulgence2 nothing to vague dreams2 nothing to unmanly despair4 ,he did not wait for the work that he would have1 but labored cheerfully upon that which he could have4 ,success came gradually1 but surely2 and his powers as surely proved themselves to be more than equal to the demand made upon them4 ,on the death of ,mr4 ,crawford1 ,thomas ,william ,parsons wrote a memorial poem in which this stanza occurs3-- ,o ,rome6 what memories awake1 ,when ,crawford's name is said1 ,of days and friends for whose dear sake ,that path of ,hades unto me ,will have no more of dread ,than his own ,orpheus felt1 seeking ,eurydice6 ,o ,crawford6 husband1 father1 brother ,are in that name1 that little word6 ,let me no more my sorrow smother2 ,grief stirs me1 and ,i must be stirred4 ,thomas ,ball1 who went in early manhood to ,florence1 where he remained until when nearly at the age of fourscore he returned to his native land1 still continues1 at the age of eighty-five1 to pursue the art he loves4 ,he has created works1 as his equestrian statue of ,washington in the ,public ,gardens and his ,lincoln ,freeing the ,slave in ,park ,square1 both in ,boston2 his great ,washington ,memorial group in ,methuen1 ,massachusetts2 his ,christ ,blessing ,little ,children1 and many other historic and ideal sculptures1 that seem endowed with his beautiful and winning spirit as well as with his rare gifts4 ,larkin ,g4 ,mead chose ,florence rather than ,rome for his home and work4 ,his noble ,river ,god1 placed at the head of the ,mississippi near ,st4 ,paul1 as well as other interesting creations1 link his name with that of his native land4 ,randolph ,rogers1 a man of genius2 ,rinehart1 ,paul ,akers1 and ,thompson all died before the full maturity of their powers2 ,akers at the early age of thirty-six1 leaving1 as his bride of a year1 the poet1 ,elizabeth ,akers ,allen1 who1 under the nom de plume of ,florence ,percy1 has endeared herself to all lovers of lyric art4 ,in a monograph on ,paul ,akers1 written after his death1 the writer says of his studio in ,rome3-- ,linked with this studio is ,hawthorne's tale of ',the ,marble ,faun1' as ,kenyon's studio was none other than ,paul ,akers's4 ,though ,hawthorne in his romance saw fit to lay the scene in the rooms once occupied by ,canova1 it was in the ,via del ,crecie that he wove the thread of his ,italian romance4 ,paul ,akers's growing reputation and increase of work ere long made it necessary for him to seek a more commodious studio1 and he took rooms once occupied by the famous ,canova4 ,here he had made under his supervision copies in marble of many of the famous works of the ,vatican and the ,capitol4 ,the largest collection of these was a commission from ,mr4 ,edward ,king of ,newport1 and among them were busts of ,ariadne1 ,demosthenes1 and ,cicero1 and a facsimile of the ',dying ,gladiator' which ,mr4 ,king presented to the ,redwood ,library of ,newport4 99 99 99 99 99 ,during his first winter in ,rome he was permitted by the authorities to make a cast of a mutilated bust of ,cicero which had long lain in the ,vatican4 ,a critic writing from ,rome in #aheg says of this bust of ,cicero3 ',mr4 ,akers obtained permission to take a cast from it2 he then restored the eye1 brow1 and ears1 and modelled a neck and bust for it in accordance with the temperament shown by the nervous and rather thin face4 ,he has succeeded admirably4 ,it is the very head of the ,vatican1 yet without the scars of envious time1 and sits gracefully on human shoulders1 instead of being rolled awkwardly back upon a shelf4' ,this bust is unlike the portrait which so long passed for ,cicero's1 but has been identified by means of a medal which was struck by the ,magnesians in honor of the great orator during his consulate1 and is now the authorized portrait of ,cicero4 ,the finest of ,paul ,akers's creations executed during his stay in ,rome are ',st4 ,elizabeth of ,hungary1' which represents the princess at the moment the roses have fallen to the ground2 ',una and the ,lion1' an illustration of the line in ,spenser's ',faerie ,queene1'-- ',still while she slept he kept both watch and ward2' the head of ,milton and the ',pearl ,diver4' ,the ',pearl ,diver1' now owned by the city of ,portland1 represents a youth stretched upon a sea-worn rock and wrapped in eternal sleep4 ,the arms are thrown above the head1 and about the waist is a net containing pearl-bearing shells for which he has risked his life4 ,there is no trace of suffering2 all is subdued to beauty4 ,it is death represented as the ancients conceived it1 the act of the torch-reverting god4 ,this youth1 who has lost his life at the moment when all that for which he had dared was within his grasp1 suggests ,paul ,akers's own untimely death on the eve of his triumph4 ,it was from his ,roman studio that ,mr4 ,akers wrote to a friend3-- ,yesterday ,browning called4 ,he looked a long time at my ,milton1 and said it was ,milton1 the man-angel4 ,he praised the wealth of hair which ,i had given the head1 and then said that ,mrs4 ,browning had a lock of ,milton's hair1 the only one now in existence4 ,this was given her by ,leigh ,hunt1 just before his death1 who had the records proving it to be genuine4 ,the hair was1 he said1 like mine4 ,he invited me to visit him in ,florence1 where he would show me the first edition of ,milton's poems1 marked to indicate the peculiar accent which the poet sometimes adopted1 a knowledge of which makes clear somewhat that otherwise seems discordant4 ,milton was so great a musician that there could have been no fault in sound in his compositions4 ,he looked over my books2 said my edition of ,shelley was one which he had corrected for the press1 not from a knowledge of the original ,,ms41 but from his internal evidence that so it must have been2 said ,poe was a wonderful man2 spoke of ,tennyson in the warmest terms4 ,took up a copy of his own poems published in the ,united ,states1 and remarked that it was better than the ,english edition1 yet had some awful blunders1 and wished me to allow him to correct a copy for me4 ,my head of the ',drowned ,girl' caught his eye and interested him4 ,i told him that ,i had thought of ,hood's ',bridge of ,sighs4' ,he then said that ,hood wrote that on his deathbed1 and read it to him before any one else had seen it4 ,hood was doubtful whether it was worth publishing4 ,to-morrow ,mrs4 ,browning is to come2 she has been quite ill since she came to ,rome1 and ,i have seen her but once4 ,i derive much comfort from the friendship of ,charlotte ,cushman4 ,she has just gone from here4 ,she has frequent breakfast parties2 ,i have attended but one4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james ,t4 ,fields1 ,wild1 the painter1 and myself were the guests4 ,fields ,i like much4 ,the first works of ,mr4 ,akers were two portrait busts1 of ,longfellow and of ,samuel ,appleton4 ,of his bust of ,milton1 ,hawthorne in the ,marble ,faun has said3-- ,in another style1 there was the grand1 calm head of ,milton1 not copied from any one bust or picture1 yet more authentic than any of them1 because all known representations of the poet had been profoundly studied and solved in the artist's mind4 ,the bust over the tomb in ,greyfriar's ,church1 the original miniatures and pictures wherever to be found1 had mingled each its special truth in this one work--wherein likewise by long perusal and deep love of ',paradise ,lost1' the ',comus1' the ',lycidas1' and ',l',allegro1' the sculptor had succeeded even better than he knew in spiritualizing his marble with the poet's mighty genius4 ,and this was a great thing to have achieved1 such a length of time after the dry bones and dust of ,milton were like those of any other dead man4 ,richard ,greenough and the painter1 ,mr4 ,haseltine1 were prominent figures among the early ,american group of the nineteenth-century artists in ,rome4 ,there came ,emma ,stebbins1 who modelled a fine portrait bust of ,charlotte ,cushman2 and ,anne ,whitney1 whose statues of ,samuel ,adams and of ,leif ,ericson adorn public grounds in ,boston2 whose life-size statue of ,harriet ,martineau is the possession of ,wellesley ,college2 and whose ,chaldean ,astronomer1 ,lotus-,eater1 and ,roma--a figure personifying the ,rome of ,pio ,nono--reveal her power in ideal creation4 ,the name of ,harriet ,hosmer stands out in brilliant pre-eminence among those of all women who have followed the plastic art4 ,her infinite charm of personality seems to impart itself to her work1 and she has the gift to make friends as well as to call forms out of clay--the success of friendship being one even more permanently satisfying4 ,in her early life as a girl hardly more than twenty1 she sought ,rome1 living with art as her chaperon4 ,her versatility1 her picturesque individuality1 and her imaginative power all combined to win sympathetic recognition4 ,gibson1 whose guidance was particularly well adapted to develop her gifts1 received her into his own studio and took a deep interest in her work4 ,it was during the period of her early efforts that ,hawthorne was in ,rome1 and she is graphically depicted in his notebooks in her boyish cap at work in the clay4 ,gibson was an artist1 con amore1 and ,miss ,hosmer's joyous abandon to her art captivated his sympathy4 ,in my art what do ,i find8 he questioned2 happiness2 love which does not depress me2 difficulties which ,i do not fear2 resolution which never abates2 flights which carry me above the ground2 ambition which tramples no one down4 ,master and pupil were akin in their unwearied devotion to art4 ,of ,gibson1 whose absence of mind regarding all the details of life made him almost helpless in travel and affairs1 ,miss ,hosmer used gleefully to say that he was a god in his studio1 but ,god help him out of it6 ,this glancing sprite of a girl1 frightening her friends by her daring and venturous horseback riding2 gravitating by instinct to offer some generous1 tender aid to the sick1 the destitute1 or the helpless2 the life and light of gay dinners and of social evenings2 working from six in the morning till night in her studio1 with an absence of pretension1 says ,mrs4 ,browning1 and simplicity of manners which accord rather with the childish dimples in her rosy cheeks than with her broad forehead and high aims1 had the magic gift that merged her visitors and patrons into enthusiastic friends2 and ,mrs4 ,browning has chronicled the pretty scene when ,lady ,marion ,alford1 the daughter of the ,earl of ,northumberland1 knelt before the girl artist and slipped on her finger a ring--a precious ruby set with diamonds--as a token of her devotion4 ,reading ,miss ,hosmer's life still further backward1 the reader is transported1 as if on some magic carpet1 to ,st4 ,louis1 in the ,united ,states1 where a noble and lofty man1 ,hon4 ,wayman ,crow1--a generous friend1 a liberal patron of the arts1 a man of the most refined tastes and culture1 whose great qualities were always used in high service1--first aided ,miss ,hosmer to the preliminary studies in her art1 and whose accomplished and lovely daughters 7now ,mrs4 ,lucien ,carr of ,boston1 ,mrs4 ,edwin ,cushman of ,newport and ,rome1 and ,mrs4 ,emmons of ,leamington1 ,england7 were as a trio of sisters to the young artist4 ,and the flowing conditions of life bear on this lifelong friendship until a fair young girl1 lise 7the daughter of ,mrs4 ,emmons71 catches up this sweet tie and as an accomplished and lovely young woman in ,roman society1 when these flowing conditions had come down even into the season of #aijf-g1 ,miss ,emmons cherished the fame of ,harriet ,hosmer and enjoyed the privilege of a constant correspondence with the distinguished artist4 ,so the past links itself again with the present2 and who can tell where any story in life begins or ends in the constant evolutionary progress8 ,miss ,hosmer's work attracted wide attention4 ,her majestic statue of ,zenobia2 the winsome ,puck2 the impressive statue of ,beatrice ,cenci1 representing her as she lay in her cell in ,castel ,san ,angelo the night before her execution1--these and other works of hers are of an interesting character and will hold their permanent rank in sculpture4 ,were all the muses present at the christening of ,william ,wetmore ,story--sculptor1 musician1 poet and painter1 jurist and man of letters1 and the friend whose social relationships made life a thing of beauty-- ,to winds and waterfalls1 ,and autumn's sunlit festivals1 ,to music and to music's thoughts ,inextricably bound8 ,mr4 ,story made his first visit to ,italy in #ahdg2 not at that time with any fixed purpose of exchanging his profession of the law for art4 ,he loved literature1 and his grace and ease in expression had already manifested his literary talent2 he had an inclination toward modelling--it could hardly1 at this time1 have been called by a stronger name--and curiously enough with him the usual conditions were reversed and he received a commission for a statue of his father1 ,judge ,story1 before he had made any definite turning toward the art of sculpture4 ,a young man of versatile gifts and accomplished scholarship1 sculpture was to him one among the many attractive forms of art rather than the supreme attraction2 and it was the stimulus of the given work that determined him as a sculptor1 rather than his determination to be a sculptor that determined the work4 ,among the goddesses of life ,destiny must1 perhaps1 be allowed a place4 ,at all events1 after ,mr4 ,story's initial glance at ,italy1 he sought ,rome again a year later1 and this time it was his choice for life1 however unrevealed to his eye were the resplendent years that lay before him4 ,he had fallen under the spell of the ,magic ,land4 ,in a letter to ,lowell1 ,mr4 ,story had questioned how he should ever endure again the restraint and bondage of ,boston4 ,it was the picturesque ,rome of the ,popes that he first knew4 ,the years of #ahdh-di were those of revolutionary activities in ,italy4 ,pio ,nono1 one of the most saintly and beloved of the ,popes1--whose mortal form now rests in that richly decorated chapel in old ,san ,lorenzo1 fuori le mura1 on the site of the church that ,constantine founded on the burial place of ,st4 ,lawrence1--made his flight to ,gaeta and the ,roman republic was established4 ,it was a dramatic scene when ,pio ,nono returned 7,april #ab1 #ahej71 entering ,rome by the ,porta ,san ,giovanni4 ,the scene from this gate was then1 as now1 one of the most impressive in the ,eternal ,city4 ,it was in this vast ,basilica of ,san ,giovanni ,laterano that ,pio ,nono entered that ,april day1 leaving his carriage and walking alone to the altar1 where he knelt in devotion4 ,a splendid procession awaited without to accompany the ,holy ,father to the ,papal ,palace4 ,the superb state carriages conveyed princes and foreign ambassadors and great nobles4 ,from the ,piazza ,san ,giovanni to ,st4 ,peter's every house was illuminated1 and the populace cheered and waved until the very air vibrated with sound and color4 ,these were the days when the methods of government were a visible spectacle1 a drama1 making the life in ,rome a daily illuminated missal4 ,the ,storys1 on their return to ,italy1 located themselves for a time in ,florence1 where they met the ,brownings1 and that lifelong friendship between the poet and the sculptor was initiated4 ,in these happy ,florentine days ,mr4 ,story worked in his studio while his wife read to him the life of ,keats1 then just issued1 written by ,monckton ,milnes1 later ,lord ,houghton4 ,but the flowing conditions soon bore them onward to ,rome1 where they settled themselves in the ,via ,porta ,pinciana1 and met the ,crawfords1 who were domiciled in the ,villa ,negroni4 ,in these ,roman days1 too1 appeared ,mr4 ,cropsey1 of poetic landscape fame1 and here1 too1 was ,margaret ,fuller4 ,mazzini was then a leading figure in the ,chamber of ,deputies1--the prophet not only of modern ,italy1 but of the modern world4 ,he found ,italy utilitarian and materialistic1 permeated by ,french ideas1 and weakened by her reliance on ,french initiative4 ,he was filled with hope that ,italy might not only achieve her own unity1 but might once more accomplish1 as she had in the ,rome of the ,csars and the ,rome of the ,church1 the unity of the ,western world4 ',on my side ,i believe1' he says1 'that the great problem of the day was a religious problem1 to which all other questions were but secondary4' ,he was asserting that we cannot relate ourselves to the ,divine1 but through collective humanity4 ,it is not by isolated duty 7which indeed the conditions of modern life render more and more impossible71 nor by contemplation of mere ,power as displayed in the material world1 that we can develop our nature4 ,it is rather by mingling with the universal life1 and by carrying on the evolution of the never-ending work4 ,the studios of ,mr4 ,crawford in those days were in the ,piazza delle ,terme1 near the ,baths of ,diocletian4 ,william ,page1 the painter1 was domiciled on the slope of the ,quirinal where he painted a portrait of ,charlotte ,cushman which ,mrs4 ,browning described as a miracle2 one of ,mrs4 ,crawford2 the head of ,mrs4 ,story1 which he insisted upon presenting to her husband2 and a magnificent portrait of ,browning which the artist presented to ,mrs4 ,browning4 ,both of us1 wrote ,robert ,browning of this gift1 would have fain escaped being the subjects of such princely generosity2 but there was no withstanding his delicacy and noble-mindedness4 ,mrs4 ,jameson was much in ,rome in the early years of the #ahej-fj decade1 living in the old port by the ,tiber nearly opposite to the new and splendid building of the law courts4 ,near the ,tarpeian ,rock ,frederika ,bremer had perched1 in a tiny room of which she took all the frugal care1 even to washing the blue cups and plates when she invited the ,hawthornes to a tea of a simplicity that suggested1 indeed1 the utmost degree of light housekeeping4 ,thomas ,buchanan ,read was one of the hosts and guests of this social group1 and it was at a dinner he gave that ,hawthorne met ,gibson1 whose conversational talents were evidently 7upon that occasion7 chiefly employed in contemning the pre-,raphaelite school of painters and emphasizing the need of sculptors to discover and to follow the principles of the ,greeks1--a fair doctrine1 but one which ,mr4 ,gibson fails to practise1 observes ,hawthorne4 ,the ,brownings were variously bestowed in ,rome through succeeding winters1--in the ,bocca di ,leone1 in the ,via del ,tritone and elsewhere4 ,mrs4 ,browning1 as her ,casa ,guida ,windows and many other poems attest1 took always the deepest interest in ,italian politics4 ,american and ,english friends come and go1 but the little group of residents and the more permanent sojourners1 as the ,hawthornes and the ,brownings1 continue their daily variations on life in the social dinners and teas1 the excursions and the sight-seeing of the wonderful city4 ,only the magician could call up the vanished past again and summon into an undeniable materialization those charming figures to come forth out of the shadowy air of the rich1 historic past1 and stand before us in the full light of contemporary attention4 ,not alone this group of choice persons1 but the environment of their time1 the very atmosphere1 are demanded of this necromancy4 ,the figure of ,adelaide ,kemble 7,mrs4 ,sartoris7 is one of these1 and the tradition still survives of a concert given in the splendid1 spacious hall of the ,palazzo ,colonna where she was the prima donna of the occasion4 ,there were also musicals at the house of ,mrs4 ,sartoris1 where the guests met her famous sister1 ,fanny ,kemble4 ,mrs4 ,browning was fond of both the sisters1 and said of them that their social brilliancy was their least distinction4 ,she found them both noble and sympathetic1 and her dear ,mr4 ,page and ,hatty 7,miss ,hosmer7 an immense favorite with us both1 she said of her husband and herself2 these and the ,storys made up the special circle for the ,brownings in ,rome4 ,the ,sartoris house has the best society in ,rome1 writes ,mrs4 ,browning to ,miss ,mitford1 and exquisite music1 of course4 ,we met ,lockhart there and my husband sees a good deal of him4444 ,a little society1 she says1 is good for soul and body1 and on the ,continent it is easy to get a handful of society without paying too dear for it4 ,this is an advantage of ,continental life4 ,mrs4 ,browning greatly admired the work of ,mr4 ,page1 whose portraits she found like ,titian's4 ,but the tinted statues of ,gibson seemed to her inartistic4 ,his famous painted ,venus she called pretty1 but only as a wax doll might be1 not as a work of genuine art4 ,then ,thackeray and his two daughters came2 ,miss ,anne 7now known to the world of literature as ,anne ,thackeray ,ritchie7 was a special favorite with ,mrs4 ,browning4 ,coming to ,rome at one time from ,florence in midwinter1 the ,brownings found that the ,storys had taken an apartment for them 7in the ,via ,bocca di ,leone71 and they arrived to find lighted fires and lamps4 ,their journey had included a week's visit at ,assisi1 studying the rich art of ,cimabue and ,giotto in the church of the great ,franciscan monastery4 ,mrs4 ,browning visited studios in ,rome and found that of ,mr4 ,crawford more interesting to her than ,mr4 ,gibson's1 but no artist is as near to her1 as she herself says1 as ,mr4 ,page4 ,the ,storys left the ,porta ,pinciana to live at ,no4 #ic in the ,piazza di ,spagna1 and in the same house with the ,brownings1 in the ,bocca di ,leone1 ,mr4 ,page had his apartment4 ,to ,lowell1 ,mr4 ,story wrote of the ,brownings3-- ,the ,brownings and we became great friends in ,florence1 and1 of course1 we could not become friends without liking each other4 ,he1 ,emelyn says1 is like you4 ,he is of my size1 but slighter1 with straight black hair1 small eyes1 a smooth face1 and manner nervous and rapid4 ,he has great vivacity1 but not the least humor2 some sarcasm1 considerable critical faculty1 and very great frankness and friendliness of manner and mind4 ,mrs4 ,browning will sit buried up in a large easy-chair listening and talking very quietly and pleasantly4 ,very unaffected is she4444 ,i have hundreds of statues in my head1 but they are in the future tense4 ,powers ,i knew very well in ,florence4 ,he is a man of great mechanical talent and natural strength of perception1 but with no poetry in his composition1 and ,i think no creative power4444 ,i have been to hear ,allegri's ',miserere' in the ,sistine ,chapel1 with the awful and mighty figures of ,michael ,angelo looking down from the ceiling2 to hear ,guglielmi's ',miserere' in ,st4 ,peter's1 while the gloom of evening was gathering in the lofty aisles and shrouding the frescoed domes1 was a deeply affecting and solemnly beautiful experience4 ,never can one forget the plaintive wailing of the voices that seemed to implore pity and pardon4 ,it was in #ahef that the ,storys located themselves in ,palazzo ,barberini1 which ,bernini designed and which was built out of the quarry of the ,coliseum by ,urban ,,viii4 ,it is one of the wonderful old palaces of ,rome1--this mass of ,barberini courts1 gardens1 terraces1 and vast apartments1 with the interminable winding stairs1 where on one landing ,thorwaldsen's lion lies before the great doors decorated with the arms of ,popes and princes4 ,here the old ,cardinal ,barberini lived his stormy life2 here are the gallery and the library1--the latter stored with infinite treasures of ancient documents1 old maps whose portrayal of the earth bears little resemblance to the present1 and famous manuscripts and volumes in old vellum1 some fifty thousand in all4 ,in the ,barberini gallery are a few noted works1--,raphael's ,fornarina1 ,guido's ,beatrice ,cenci1 a ,holy ,family by ,andrea del ,sarto1 and others4 ,illustration3 ,,spanish ,,steps1 ,,piazza ,,trinit ,,dei ,,monti1 ,,rome ,page #gb ,the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane1 on which the ,palazzo ,barberini stands1 might well be known as the street of the wonderful vista4 ,one strolls down it to the ,via ,sistina and to ,piazza ,trinit de' ,monti at the head of the ,spanish steps 7the ,scala di ,spagna71 pausing for the loveliness of the view4 ,across the city rises the opposite height of ,monte ,mario1 and to the left the ,janiculum1 now crowned with the magnificent equestrian statue of ,garibaldi1 which is in evidence from almost every part of ,rome4 ,as far as the eye can see the ,campagna stretches away1 infinite as the sea--a very ,campagna ,mystica4 ,the luminous air1 the faint1 misty blue of the distance1 the deep purple shadows on the hills1 make up a landscape of color4 ,at the foot of the ,spanish steps the flower venders spread out their wares1--great bunches of the flame-colored roses peculiar to ,italy1 the fragrant white hyacinths1 golden jonquils1 baskets of violets1 and masses of lilies of the valley4 ,on many a night of brilliant moonlit glory the artistic sojourners in ,rome lingered on the parapet of the ,pincian ,hill watching the moonlight flood the ,eternal ,city until churches and palaces seemed to swim in a sea of silver4 ,or in the morning1 when the rose-red of dawn was aglow1 there seemed to hover over the city that wraith of mist whose secret ,claude ,lorraine surprises in his landscapes4 ,these dawn visions of mysterious1 incredible beauty are a part of the very identity of ,rome4 ,there were mornings when the ,hawthornes with ,mrs4 ,jameson or some other friend would drive out to the old ,san ,lorenzo 7fuori le mura71 the church founded by ,constantine in #ccj on the site where the body of ,st4 ,lawrence was buried4 ,at various periods the church was enlarged and finally1 as recently as in #ahfd1 ,pio ,nono had great improvements made under the architect ,vespignani4 ,in the piazza in front was placed an immense column of red granite1 some sixty feet high1 with the statue of ,st4 ,lawrence1 a standing figure1 at the top4 ,it is most impressive4 ,the colonnade at the entrance of the church is decorated with frescoes and contains two immense sarcophagi1 whose sides are beautifully sculptured with reliefs4 ,the roof is supported by six ,ionic columns4 ,entering the church one finds an interior of three aisles divided by colossal columns of ,oriental granite4 ,in the middle aisle1 on both sides the galleries1 are fresco paintings illustrating the martyrdom of ,st4 ,lawrence and of ,st4 ,stephen1 one series on the right and the other on the left4 ,one of these paintings1 especially1 of the life of ,st4 ,lawrence1 is strangely haunting to the imagination4 ,it represents the youthful1 slender figure1 nude1 save for slight drapery1 laid on the gridiron while the fire is being kindled under it and the fagots shovelled in4 ,the physical shrinking of the flesh--of every nerve--from the torture1 the spiritual strength and invincible energy of the countenance1 are wonderfully depicted4 ,the great aisle was painted by order of ,pius ,,ix by ,cesare ,fracassini2 in it are two pulpits of marble4 ,a double staircase of marble conducts to that part of the ,basilica of ,constantine which by ,honorius ,,iii was converted into the presbytery4 ,it is decorated at the upper end by twelve columns of violet marble which rise from the level of the primitive basilica beneath4 ,at the end is the ancient pontifical seat1 adorned with mosaic and precious marbles4 ,the papal altar is under a canopy in the ,byzantine style4 ,the pavement of this presbytery is worthy of particular attention4 ,descending to the confessional which is under the high altar the tomb of the martyred saints1 ,lawrence1 ,stephen1 and ,justin1 is found4 ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,,pio ,,nono1 ,,san ,,lorenzo 7,,fuori ,,le ,,mura71 ,,rome ,page #ge ,it was the request of ,pio ,nono that his mortal body should rest here1 where it is placed in a simple tomb1 according to his own instructions2 but the chapel is very rich in decoration which was paid for by money sent from all parts of the world4 ,the chapel walls are entirely encrusted in mother-of-pearl1 gilt bronze1 and beautiful marbles4 ,the mosaic paintings are formed of gold and precious stones of fabulous value4 ,this interior is perhaps the richest in the world in its decoration4 ,san ,lorenzo is a patriarchal church1 and one of the seven pilgrimage churches of ,rome4 ,near ,san ,lorenzo is the ,campo ,verano1 a cemetery containing many beautiful memorial sculptures4 ,in those days1 half a century ago1 the entrance most often used by visitors to ,rome was through the ,via ,flaminia and the ,porta del ,popolo1 opening on the ,piazza del ,popolo1 rather the most picturesque and impressive place in all ,rome4 ,on the left is the ,pincian ,hill 7,monte ,pincio71 with its rich terraces1 balustrades1 its beautiful porticos filled with statuary1 its groves of cypress and ilex trees2 a classic vision rising on the sight and enchanting the imagination4 ,on the side opposite the ,porta three roads diverge in fan shape--the ,via ,babuino1 the ,corso1 and the ,ripetta1 with the twin churches side by side2 one between the ,babuino and the ,corso1 the other between the ,corso and the ,ripetta4 ,the ,corso 7which was the ancient ,flaminian ,way7 runs straight to the ,piazza ,venezia at the foot of the ,capitoline ,hill4 ,this ,piazza del ,popolo was widened and decorated by ,pius ,,vii4 ,it is formed by two semicircles1 adorned with fountains and statues1 and terminated by four symmetrical edifices4 ,in the semicircles are colossal groups in marble1 and a road opposite the ,pincio leads to the ,ponte ,margherita and the ,prati di ,castello4 ,the obelisk in the centre of the piazza was brought to ,rome from ,heliopolis by ,csar ,augustus and originally stood in the ,circus ,maximus4 ,it was erected here by ,pope ,sixtus ,v1 and it is nearly a hundred feet in height4 ,it is formed of red granite1 and while it has been broken in three places1 the hieroglyphics are still legible4 ,this obelisk was first erected in ,egypt as a part of the ,temple of the ,sun at ,heliopolis1 in a period preceding that of ,rameses ,,ii4 ,after the battle of ,actium1 ,augustus transported it to ,rome1 and it was first placed in the ,circus ,maximus1 but during the reign of ,valentinian it fell from its pedestal and lay buried in the earth1 until in the sixteenth century ,pope ,sixtus ,v had it placed in the centre of the ,piazza del ,popolo1 and consecrated it to the cross4 ,the two inscriptions are on opposite sides4 ,one thus reads3-- ,the ,emperor ,csar1 son of the divine ,csar ,augustus1 ,sovereign ,pontiff1 twelve times ,emperor1 eleven times ,consul1 fourteen times ,tribune1 having conquered ,egypt1 consecrated this gift to the ,sun4 ,the other inscription is as follows3-- ,sixtus ,v1 ,sovereign ,pontiff1 excavated1 transported1 and restored this obelisk1 sacrilegiously consecrated to the ,sun by the great ,augustus1 in the great ,circus1 where it lay in ruins1 and dedicated it to the cross triumphant in the fourth year of his pontificate4 ,the ,church of ,santa ,maria del ,popolo is built into the very wall of ,monte ,pincio on the site of ,nero's tomb4 ,it dates back to #ajii1 and consists of three naves and several chapels4 ,in the first chapel is a ,nativity by ,pinturicchio1 who also painted the lunettes4 ,another chapel belongs to the ,cibo family1 and is rich in marbles and adorned with sixteen columns of ,sicilian jasper4 ,the ,conception is by ,maratta1 the ,martyrdom of ,st4 ,lawrence by ,morandi1 and the ,st4 ,catherine by ,volterra4 ,the ,visitation was sculptured by ,bernini in #afgi4 ,the third chapel is painted by ,pinturicchio 7#aeac71 and the fourth has an interesting bas-relief of the fifteenth century4 ,the picture of the ,virgin1 on the high altar1 is one of those attributed to ,st4 ,luke2 the paintings on the vault of the choir are by ,pinturicchio4 ,the two marble monuments are1 from their perfection of design and execution1 reckoned among the best modern works4 ,they are by ,cantucci da ,s4 ,savino4 ,in the chapel following is an ,assumption by ,annibale ,carracci2 the side pictures are by ,caravaggio4 ,the last chapel but one in the small nave is the ,chigi chapel1 and is one of the most celebrated in ,rome4 ,raphael gave the designs for the dome1 the paintings of the frieze1 and the altar picture4 ,this latter was begun by ,del ,piombo and finished by ,salviati4 ,the statue of ,daniel is by ,bernini4 ,the front of the altar and the statues of ,jonah and ,elijah were done by ,lorenzetto 7#aeda71 from designs by ,raphael4 ,outside this chapel is the monument of ,princess ,odescalchi ,chigi 7#agga71 by ,paolo ,posi4 ,the stained windows of the choir belong to the fourteenth century1 and in the sacristy and the vestibule are monuments also of the fourteenth century and of the fifteenth4 ,luther resided in the convent attached to this church when he was in ,rome4 ,there is a legend that a large walnut tree grew on the site of ,nero's tomb in whose branches innumerable crows had their home1 and that they devastated all that part of ,rome4 ,an appeal was made to the ,virgin1 who declared that the crows were demons who kept watch over the ashes of ,nero1 and ordered the tree to be cut down and burned1 the ashes being scattered to the air1 and that1 on the spot1 a church should be built to her honor4 ,this was accomplished1 and the crows no more troubled the ,eternal ,city4 ,the gardens of ,lucullus were on the ,monte ,pincio4 ,the view of the terraced hillside from the ,piazza del ,popolo is one of the most impressive in ,rome4 ,the ,hawthornes left ,rome in #ahei2 and the death of ,mrs4 ,browning in ,june of #ahfa left the little circle of the ,roman winters irreparably broken4 ,returning to ,rome1 wrote ,story to ,charles ,eliot ,norton1 ,i have not one single intimate 444 no one with whom ,i can walk any of the higher ranges of art and philosophy4 ,mr4 ,story had modelled the busts of both ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,browning during their sojourns in ,rome2 in #ahec ,harriet ,hosmer had made the cast of the clasped hands of the poets1 the model having since been cast in bronze2 ,mr4 ,page had1 as already noted1 painted a portrait of ,robert ,browning2 and ,mr4 ,leighton 7afterward ,sir ,frederick7 had made a beautiful portrait sketch of ,mrs4 ,browning4 ,in later years all these memorials1 with other paintings or plastic sketches of the wedded poets1 were grouped in ,mr4 ,barrett ,browning's palace in ,venice4 ,at this time ,mr4 ,story had completed his ,cleopatra1 which ,hawthorne had embalmed in literary mention in ,the ,marble ,faun2 and beside his ,judith1 ,sappho1 and other lesser works1 he had achieved one of his finest successes in the ,libyan ,sibyl4 ,both the ,cleopatra and the ,sibyl became famous4 ,whether they would produce so strong an effect at the present stage of twentieth-century life is a problem1 but one that need not press for solution4 ,mr4 ,story was singularly fortunate in certain conditions that grouped themselves about his life and combined to establish his fame4 ,these conditions1 of course1 were largely the outer reflection of inner qualities1 as our conditions are apt to be2 still1 the lack of favoring gales not infrequently foredooms some gallant bark to a disastrous course4 ,man is his own star4444 99 99 99 99 99 ,our acts1 our angels1 are1 for good or ill1 ,our fatal shadows that walk by us still1 it is true2 yet has not ,edith ,thomas embodied something of that overruling destiny that every thoughtful observer must discern in life in these lines8-- ,you may blame the wind or no1 ,but it ever hath been so-- ,something bravest of its kind ,leads a frustrate life and blind1 ,for the lack of favoring gales ,blowing blithe on other sails4 ,only occasionally have we 444 the time1 and the place1 ,and the loved one all together4 ,mr4 ,story's nature was eminently sympathetic with the other arts2 he was himself almost as much a literary man as he was a sculptor2 he was the friend and companion of literary men1 and to the fact that art in the middle years of the nineteenth century was far more a literary topic than a matter of critical scrutiny1 ,mr4 ,story owed an incalculable degree of his fame4 ,he was an extremely interesting figure with his social grace1 his liberal culture1 and his versatile gifts4 ,his life was centred in choice and refined associations4 ,if not dowered with lofty and immortal original genius1 he had a singular combination of talent1 of fastidious taste1 and of the intellectual appreciation that enabled him to select interesting ideal subjects to portray in the plastic art4 ,these appealed to the special interest of his literary friends and were widely discussed in the press and periodicals of the day4 ,it is a bonmot of contemporary studio life that ,hawthorne rather than ,story created the ,cleopatra1 and one ingenious spirit suggests that as ,mr4 ,story put nothing of expression or significance into his statues1 the beholder could read into them anything he pleased2 finding an empty mould1 so to speak1 into which to pour whatever image or embodiment he might conjure up from the infinite realm of imagination4 ,one of the latest of these contemporary critics declares that ,story declined appreciably1 year by year1 falling away from his own standard2 haunted to the point of obsession by visions of mournful female figures1 generally seated1 wrapped in gloom4 ,it seems strange1 this critic continues1 that so active a mind should dream of nothing but brooding1 sinister souls1 of bodies bowed in grief1 or tense with rage4 ,never once1 apparently1 did there come to him a vision of buoyancy and grace2 of a beauty that one could love2 of good cheer and joy of very living2 always these unwholesome creatures born of that belated ,byronic romanticism4 ,this criticism1 while it has as little appreciation of ,mr4 ,story's exquisite culture and of the taste and refinement of his art as the general rush of the motor car and telephonic conversational life of the first decade of the twentieth century has of the thoughtful1 the poetic1 the leisurely atmosphere of ,mr4 ,story's time1 is yet not without a keen flashlight of truth4 ,painting had its reactionary crisis from the pre-,raphaelite ideals and the intransigeants have had their own conflicts in which they survived1 or disappeared1 according to the degree of artistic vitality within4 ,sculpture and literature must also meet the series of tests to which the onward progress of life persists in subjecting them1 and those who are submerged and perish can only encourage the survivors as did the ,greeks1 as sung by ,theocritus3-- ,a shipwrecked sailor1 buried on this coast1 ,bids you set sail4 ,full many a gallant ship1 when we were lost1 ,weathered the gale4 ,as we refine1 our checks grow finer1 said ,emerson4 ,as life becomes more elaborate and ambitious1 the critical tests increase4 ,contemporary fame can be created for the artist by favorable contemporary comment2 but it rests with himself1 after all2 it rests in the abiding significance of his work--or the lack of it--as to whether this fame is perpetuated4 ,that of ,mr4 ,story does not hold within itself all the qualities that insure the appreciation of the present day4 ,it is1 as the critic of the hour expresses himself1 too literary1--too largely a question of classic titles which appealed to the mid-nineteenth-century authors whose judgment of art the twentieth century finds particularly amusing4 ,henry ,james has somewhere held up to ridicule the early ,beacon ,hill ,boston for its impassioned devotion to the attenuated outlines of ,flaxman's art4 ,but the work of ,story will survive all transient variations of opinion1 even of the present realistic age2 for is not true realism1 after all1 to be found in the eternal ideals of truth1 grace1 dignity1 refinement1 significance1 and beauty8 ,these qualities have a message to convey2 and no one can study with sympathetic appreciation any sculpture of ,william ,wetmore ,story without feeling that the work has something to say2 that it is not a mere reproduction of some form1 but is1 rather1 an idea impersonated1 and therefore it has life1 it has significance4 ,the criticism of the immediate hour is not necessarily infallible because it is contemporary4 ,what does ,william ,watson say8 ,a deft musician does the breeze become ,whenever an olian harp it finds2 ,hornpipe and hurdy-gurdy both are dumb ,unto the most musicianly of winds4 ,it is an irretrievable loss if1 in the passion for the vita nuova1 a generation1 or a century1 shall substitute for the olian harp the mere hornpipe and hurdy-gurdy of the hour4 ,in another of his keenly critical quatrains ,william ,watson embodies this signal truth3-- ,his rhymes the poet flings at all men's feet1 ,and whoso will may trample on his rhymes4 ,should ,time let die a song that's pure and sweet1 ,the singer's loss were more than matched by ,time's4 ,art is progressive1 and the present is always the heir of all the ages preceding2 but it cannot be affirmed that it invariably makes the best use of its rich inheritance4 ,there are latter-day sculptors who excel in certain excellences that ,story lacked2 still1 it would not be his loss1 but our own1 if we fail in a due recognition of that in his art which may appeal to the imagination2 for1 whatever the enthusiasms of other cults may be1 there are qualities of beauty1 strength1 and profound significance in the art of ,story that must insure their permanent recognition4 ,still1 it remains true that ,mr4 ,story owes his fame in an incalculable degree to the friendly pens of ,hawthorne and others of his immediate circle1--,lowell1 ,motley1 ,charles ,eliot ,norton1 ,thackeray1 ,browning1--friends who1 according to the latest standards of art criticism1 were not unqualified nor absolute judges of art1 but who were in sympathy with ideal expression and recognized this as embodied in the statues of ,story4 ,browning wrote to the ,london ,times an article on ,mr4 ,story's work1 in which he conjured up most of the superlative phrases of commendation that the limits of the ,english language allow to praise his work1 none of whose marshalled force was too poor to do him reverence4 ,the versatile gifts of ,story's personality drew around him friends whose influence was potent and1 indeed1 authoritative in their time4 ,still1 any analysis of these conditions brings the searcher back to the primary truth that without the gifts and grace to attract about him an eminent circle of choice spirits he could not have enjoyed this potent aid and inspiration2 and thus1 that ,man is his own star1 is an assertion that life1 as well as poetry1 justifies4 ,in the full blaze of this fundamental truth1 it is1 not unfrequently1 the mysterious spiritual tragedy of life that many an one as fine of fibre and with lofty ideals ,leads a frustrate life and blind1 ,for the lack of favoring gales ,blowing blithe on other sails4 ,mr4 ,story was himself of too fine an order not to divine this truth4 ,with what unrivalled power and pathos has he expressed it in his poem--one far too little known--the ,io ,victis3-- ,i sing the song of the ,conquered1 who fell in the ,battle of ,life1-- ,the hymn of the wounded1 the beaten1 who died overwhelmed in the strife2 ,not the jubilant song of the victors1 for whom the resounding acclaim ,of nations was lifted in chorus1 whose brows wore the chaplet of fame1 ,but the hymn of the low and the humble1 the weary1 the broken in heart1 99 99 99 99 99 ,whose youth bore no flower on its branches1 whose hopes burned in ashes away1 ,from whose hands slipped the prize they had grasped at1 who stood at the dying of day ,with the wreck of their life all around them4444 ,in this poem ,mr4 ,story touched the highest note of his life1--as poet1 sculptor1 painter1 or writer of prose2 in no other form of expression has he equalled the sublimity of sentiment in these lines3-- 444 ,i stand on the field of defeat1 ,in the shadow1 with those who are fallen1 and wounded1 and dying1 and there 99 99 99 99 99 ,hold the hand that is helpless1 and whisper1 ',they only the victory win ,who have fought the good fight1 and have vanquished the demon that tempts us within2 ,who have held to their faith unseduced by the prize that the world holds on high2 ,who have dared for a high cause to suffer1 resist1 fight1--if need be1 to die4' ,such a poem must have its own immortality in lyric literature4 ,for a period of forty years the home of the ,storys in ,palazzo ,barberini was a noted centre of the most charming social life4 ,mr4 ,story's literary work--in his contributions of essays and poems to the ,atlantic ,monthly2 in his published works1 the ,roba di ,roma1 ,conversations in a ,studio1 his collected ,poems1 and others--gave him a not transitory rank in literature which rivals1 if it does not exceed1 his rank in art4 ,meantime other artists were to take up their permanent abode in the ,seven-hilled ,city1--,elihu ,vedder in #ahff2 ,franklin ,simmons two years later2 ,waldo and ,julian ,story1 the two sons of ,william ,wetmore ,story1 though claiming ,rome as their home1 are ,american by parentage and ancestry2 and ,mr4 ,waldo ,story succeeds his father in pursuing the art of sculpture in the beautiful studios in the ,via ,san ,martino built by the elder ,story4 ,in #aijb ,charles ,walter ,stetson1 with his gifted wife1 known to the contemporary literary world by her maiden name1 ,grace ,ellery ,channing1 set up their household gods and lighted their altar fires in the city by the ,tiber1 ready1 it may be1 to exclaim with ,ovid3-- ,four times happy is he1 and times without number is happy1 ,who the city of ,rome uninterdicted enjoys4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,dance ,,of ,,the ,,pleiades ,elihu ,vedder ,page #ib ,if art is a corner of the universe seen through a temperament1 the temperament of ,mr4 ,vedder must offer an enthralling study1 for it seems to be a lens whose power of refraction defies prophecy because it deals with the incalculable forces4 ,his art concerns itself little with the sthetic1 but is chiefly the art of the intellect and the imagination4 ,all manner of symbols and analogies2 the laws of the universe that prevail beyond the stars2 the celestial figures2 the undreamed significance in prophecy or in destiny2 omens1 signs1 and wonders2 the world forces1 advancing stealthily in the shadows of a dusky twilight2 the ,fates1 under brilliant skies1 gathering in the stars2 oracles and supernatural coincidences that lurk in undreamed-of days2 the ,pleiades dancing in a light that never was on sea or land2 unknown ,shapes that meet outside space and time and question each other's identity2 the dead that come forth from their graves and glide1 silent and spectral1 through a crowd1 unseen by any one2 the prayer of the celestial powers poured forth in the utter solitude of the vast desert1--it is these that are the realm of ,vedder's art1 and what has the normal world of portrait and landscape to do with such art as this8 ,can it only be relegated to a class1 an order1 of its own1 and considered as being--,vedderesque8 ,it seems to stand alone and unparalleled4 ,in his work lies the transfiguration of all mystery4 ,vedder never paints nature1 in the sense of landscapes1 and yet one often feels that he has the key to the very creation of nature2 that he has supped with gods and surprised the secrets of the stars4 ,do the winds whisper to him8-- ,the ,muse can knit ,what is past1 what is done1 ,with the web that's just begun4 ,how can he find the design to phrase his thought--this painter of ideas8 ,can blaze be done in cochineal1 ,or noon in mazarin8 ,whatever the ,roman environment may have done for ,allston1 ,page1 and ,story1 there is no question but that to ,vedder it has been as his soul's native air4 ,for him the sirens sing again on the coast2 the sorceress works her spell2 the ,cuman ,sibyl again flies1 wraithlike1 over the plain1 clasping her rejected leaves of destiny which ,tarquin in his blindness has refused to buy4 ,the ,rome that lies buried under the ages rises for ,vedder4 ,his art cannot be catalogued under any known division of portrait1 landscape1 marine1 or genre1 but it is simply--the art of ,vedder4 ,it stands alone and absolutely unrivalled4 ,the pictorial creations of ,vedder are as wholly without precedent or comparison as if they were the sole pictorial treasures of the world4 ,the visitor may care for them1 or not care1 according to his own ability to comprehend and to recognize the inscrutable genius there manifested2 but in either case he will find nowhere else1 in either ancient or contemporary art1 any parallel to these works4 ,one could well fancy that to any interrogation of his conceptions the artist might reply3-- ,i am seeker of the stone1 ,living gem of ,solomon4 ,but what is land1 or what is wave1 ,to me1 who only jewels crave8 99 99 99 99 99 ,i'm all-knowing1 yet unknowing2 ,stand not1 pause not in my going4 ,in the rich1 weird realm of ,omar ,khayyam's ,persian poem1 the ,rubaiyat1 ,mr4 ,vedder found the opportunity of his life for translating its thought into strange1 mystic symbolism4 ,never were artist and poet so blended in one as in ,vedder's wonderful illustrations for this poem4 ,it has nothing in common with what we ordinarily call an illustrated work4 ,it is a great treasure of art for all the ages4 ,it is a very fount of inspiration for painter and poet4 ,an exquisite sonnet suggested by ,the ,angel of the ,darker ,cup is the following by ,louise ,chandler ,moulton3-- ,she bends her lovely head to taste thy draught1 ,o thou stern ,angel of the ,darker ,cup6 ,with thee to-night in the dim shades to sup1 ,where all they be who from that cup have quaffed4 ,she had been glad in her own loveliness1 and laughed ,at ,life's strong enemies who lie in wait2 ,had kept with golden youth her queenly state1 ,all unafraid of ,sorrow's threat'ning shaft4 ,then human ,grief found out her human heart1 ,and she was fain to go where pain is dumb2 ,so ,thou wert welcome1 ,angel dread to see1 ,and she fares onward with thee1 willingly1 ,to dwell where no man loves1 no lovers part1-- ,thus ,grief that is1 makes welcome ,death to come4 ,the sonnet1 the stanza1 and the pictorial interpretation all form one beautiful trio in poetic and graphic art4 ,writing of ,mr4 ,vedder1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,c4 ,brownell speaks of the personal force in a picture and says that with ,vedder this personal force is imagination1--the imagination of a man whose natural expression is pictorial1 but who is a man as well as a painter2 who has lived as well as painted1 who has speculated1 pondered1 and felt much4444 ,it is this1 he continues1 that places ,vedder in the front rank of the imaginative painters of the day4 ,of ,mr4 ,vedder's painting called ,the ,enemy ,sowing ,tares1 ,mr4 ,brownell writes3-- 444 ,here you note a dozen phases of significance4 ,the theme is unconventional2 the man has become the archenemy2 the night is weird and awe-inspiring2 the tares represent the foe of the church--money2 they are sown at the foot of the cross--the symbol of the church4444 ,mr4 ,vedder has not passed his life in ,rome for nothing4 ,his attitude is in harmony with the spirit of the ,sistine and the ,stanze4 ,one of the interesting and mystical works of ,vedder is ,the ,soul between ,doubt and ,faith1--three heads1 that of the ,soul hooded and draped1 looking before her with eyes that seem to discern things not seen by mortals2 the sinister face of ,doubt at the left1 the serene1 inspiring countenance of ,faith at the right4 ,it is a magical picture to have before one with its profoundly significant message4 ,the works of ,mr4 ,vedder will grow more priceless as the years pass by4 ,they are pictures for the ages4 ,in ,mr4 ,ezekiel1 another ,american artist whose almost lifelong home has been in ,rome1 is a sculptor whose touch and technique have won recognition4 ,in a recumbent figure of ,christ is seen one of the best examples of his art4 ,it is pervaded by the classic influences in which he has lived4 ,the studios of ,mr4 ,ezekiel1 in the ruins of the old ,baths of ,caracalla1 are very picturesque and his salon1 with its music1 its wealth of books including many rare and beautiful copies1 and its old pictures and bric-a-brac1 is one of the fascinating interiors of the ,eternal ,city4 ,the visitor who is privileged to see the ,story studios in the ,via ,san ,martino finds ,mr4 ,waldo ,story occupying these spacious rooms where the flash of a fountain in the court1 a view of the garden1 green-walled by vines1 with flowers and shrubs and broken statues1 make the place alluring to dreamer and poet4 ,in these rooms may be seen many of the elder ,story's finest statues in cast or marble1 the ,libyan ,sibyl1 ,nemesis1 ,sappho1 the ,christ1 ,into the ,silent ,land1 and others1 with many portrait busts1 among which are those of ,browning1 ,shelley1 ,keats1 ,theodore ,parker1 ,mrs4 ,browning1 ,marchesa ,peruzzi de ,medici 7,edith ,story71 ,john ,lothrop ,motley1 one of ,story's nearer friends1 and ,lord ,houghton4 ,in the work of ,mr4 ,waldo ,story one admirable portrait bust is of ,cecil ,rhodes4 ,a decorative work1 a fountain for the ,rothschild country estate in ,england1 is charmingly designed as a ,galatea 7in bronze71 standing in a marble shell that is drawn by ,nereids and attended by ,cupids4 ,the happy blending of marble and bronze gives to this work a pleasing variety of color4 ,another decorative design is that of ,nymphs ,drinking at the ,fountain of ,love4 ,these studios are among the most interesting in ,rome4 ,it was in #ahfh that ,franklin ,simmons1 then a young artist from ,maine1 turned to ,rome as his artistic ,mecca4 ,since then the ,eternal ,city has always been his home1 but his frequent and prolonged sojourns in ,america have kept him closely in touch with its national life4 ,mr4 ,simmons is the idealist who translates his vision into the actuality of the hour and who also exalts this actuality of the hour to the universality of the vision4 ,in the creation of portrait busts and of the statues and monumental memorials of great men he infuses into them the indefinable quality of extended relation which relegates his work to the realm of the universal and1 therefore1 to the immortality of art1 rather than restricting it to the temporal locality4 ,louis ,gorse observes that it is not the absence of faults that constitutes a masterpiece1 but that it is flame1 it is life1 it is emotion1 it is sincerity4 ,under the touch of ,mr4 ,simmons the personal accent speaks2 to his creative power flame and life respond1 and to no sculptor is the truth so admirably stated by ,m4 ,gorse more applicable4 ,mr4 ,simmons has been singularly fortunate in a wide ,american recognition1 having received a liberal share of the more important commissions for great public works of sculpture4 ,the splendid statue1 al fresco1 of the poet ,longfellow for his native city1 ,portland1 was appropriately the work of ,mr4 ,simmons as a native of the same state2 the portrait statues of ,general ,grant1 ,gov4 ,william ,king1 ,roger ,williams1 and ,francis ,h4 ,pierrepont1 all in ,statuary ,hall in the ,capitol in ,washington2 the portrait busts of ,grant1 ,sheridan1 ,porter1 ,hooker1 ,thomas1 and other heroes of the ,civil ,war2 the colossal group of the ,naval ,monument at the head of ,pennsylvania ,avenue in ,washington1--are all among the works of ,mr4 ,simmons4 ,like all artists who1 like the poet1 are born and not made1 ,mr4 ,simmons gave evidence of his artistic bent in his early childhood4 ,after graduating from ,bates ,college he modelled a bust of its president1 and a little later1 going to ,washington 7in the winter of #ahfe-ff71 many of the noted men of the time gave him sittings1 and in a series of portrait busts his genius impressed itself by its dignity of conception and an unusual power of sympathetic interpretation4 ,he modelled the bust of ,grant while he was the ,general's guest in camp1 taking advantage of whatever spare minutes ,general ,grant could give for sittings in the midst of his pressing responsibilities2 and it is perhaps due to this unusually intimate intercourse with the great hero1 and the rapport1 not difficult of establishment1 between two men whose natures were akin in a certain noble sincerity and lofty devotion to the purest ideals1 that ,mr4 ,simmons owes the power with which he has absolutely interpreted the essential characteristics of ,general ,grant in that immortal portrait statue in the ,capitol4 ,washington is1 indeed1 the place to especially study the earlier work of ,franklin ,simmons4 ,an important one is the ,logan memorial1--an equestrian statue which is considered the finest work in sculpture in the capital1 and which is the only statue in the ,united ,states in which both the group and the pedestal are of bronze4 ,the visitor in ,washington who should be ignorant of the relative rank of the great men commemorated by the equestrian memorial monuments of the city might be justified in believing that ,general ,logan was the most important man of his time1 if he judged from the relative greatness of his statue4 ,when ,congress decided upon this group1 ,mr4 ,simmons was requested to prepare a model4 ,this proving eminently acceptable1 ,mr4 ,simmons found himself1 quite to his own surprise1 fairly launched on this arduous work1 involving years of intense concentration and labor4 ,for this monumental work was to be not merely that of the brave and gallant military leader1--a single idea embodied1 as in those of ,generals ,scott1 ,sheridan1 ,thomas1 and others1--but it was to be a permanent interpretation of the soldier-statesman1 mounted on his battle-horse2 it was to be1 in the comprehensive grasp of ,mr4 ,simmons1 the vital representation of the complex life and individuality of ,general ,logan and1 even more1 it must reflect and suggest the complex spirit of his age4 ,in this martial figure was thus embodied a manifold and mysterious relation1 as one of the potent leaders and directive powers in an age of tumultuous activities2 an age of strife and carnage1 whose goal was peace2 of adverse conditions and reactions1 whose manifest outcome was yet prosperity and national greatness and splendid moral triumph4 ,all these must be suggested in the atmosphere1 so to speak1 of the artist's work2 and no sculptor who was not also an ,american--not merely by ancestry and activity1 but one in mind and heart only2 one who was an intense patriot and identified with national ideas--could ever have produced such a work as that of the ,logan monument4 ,so unrivalled does it stand1 unique among all the equestrian art of this country1 that it enchants the art student and lover with its indefinable spell4 ,when this colossal work was cast in bronze1 in ,rome1 the event was considered important4 ,the king and the ,royal family visited the studio of ,mr4 ,simmons to see the great group1 and so powerfully did its excellence appeal to ,king ,umberto that he knighted ,mr4 ,simmons1 making him ,cavaliere of the ,crown of ,italy4 ,nor was ,mr4 ,simmons the prophet who was not without honor save in his own country1 for his alma mater gave him the degree of ,m4,a4 in #ahfg2 ,colby ,college honored him with the ,master's degree in #ahhe1 and in #ahhh ,bowdoin bestowed upon this eminent ,maine artist the same degree4 ,in #ahib ,mr4 ,simmons married the ,baroness von ,jeinsen1 a brilliant and beautiful woman who1 though a lady of foreign title1 was an ,american by birth4 ,an accomplished musician1 a critical lover of art1 and the most delightful of hostesses and friends1 ,mrs4 ,simmons drew around her a remarkable circle of charming people and made their home in the ,palazzo ,tamagno a notable centre of social life4 ,no woman in the ,american colony of the ,seven-hilled ,city was ever more beloved2 and it was frequently noted by guests at her weekly receptions that ,mrs4 ,simmons was as solicitous for the enjoyment of the most unknown stranger as for those of rank and title who frequented her house4 ,her grace and loveliness were fully equalled by her graciousness and that charm of personality peculiarly her own4 ,her death in ,rome1 on ,christmas of #aije1 left a vacant place1 indeed1 in many a home which had been gladdened by her radiant presence4 ,one of the most beautiful works of ,mr4 ,simmons is a portrait of his wife in bas-relief1 representing her standing just at the opening of parted curtains1 as if she were about to step behind and vanish4 ,it is a very poetic conception4 ,a bust of ,mrs4 ,simmons1 also1 in his studio1 is fairly a speaking likeness of this beautiful and distinguished woman4 ,it is over her grave in the ,protestant cemetery that ,mr4 ,simmons has placed one of his noblest ideal statues1 ,the ,angel of the ,resurrection1--a memorial monument that is one of the art features of ,rome to the visitor in the ,eternal ,city4 ,illustration3 ,,grief ,,and ,,history1 ,,detail ,,from ,,naval ,,monument1 ,,washington ,franklin ,simmons ,page #aje ,the brilliant and impressive ,naval ,monument1 or ,monument of ,peace1 as it is known in ,washington1 placed at the foot of ,capitol ,hill on ,pennsylvania ,avenue1 is eloquent with the power of heroic suggestion that ,mr4 ,simmons has imparted to it4 ,the work breathes that exaltation of final triumph that follows temporary defeat4 ,those who died that the nation might live1 are seen in the perpetual illumination of immortality4 ,not only has ,mr4 ,simmons here perpetuated the suffering1 the sacrifices of the ,civil ,war1 but that sublime and eternal truth of victory after defeat1 of peace and serene exaltation after conflict1 and the triumph of life after death1 are all immortally embodied in this group crowned with those impressive and haunting figures1 ,grief and ,history1 which are considered as among the most classically beautiful and significant in the range of modern sculpture4 ,in the early winter of #aijg ,mr4 ,simmons was invited by the ,american ,ambassador to the ,court of ,st4 ,james1 ,hon4 ,whitelaw ,reid1 to send for ,dorchester ,house1 ,london1 three busts of distinguished ,americans1--those of ,alexander ,hamilton1 ,chief ,justice ,chase1 and ,hon4 ,james ,g4 ,blaine1 which ,mr4 ,reid1 in visiting the ,roman studios of ,mr4 ,simmons1 had seen and greatly admired4 ,the ,ambassador observed that he would like a few ,americans1 as well as so many ,roman ,emperors1 about him4 ,these portrait busts all reveal an amazing force and mastery of work4 ,the fine sculptural effect of the ,hamilton and the wonderful blending of subtle delicacy of touch and vigor of treatment with which the nobility of character is expressed1 mark this bust as something exceptional in portrait art4 ,it has a matchless dignity and serene poise4 ,the bust of ,chief ,justice ,chase is a faithful and speaking reproduction of the very presence of its subject1 instinct with vitality2 and the fire and force and brilliancy of the bust of ,hon4 ,james ,g4 ,blaine fairly sweeps the visitor off his feet4 ,the modelling is done with an apparent instantaneousness of power that is the highest realization of creative art4 ,it is the magnetic ,blaine1 the impassioned and eloquent statesman1 that rises before the gazer4 ,mr4 ,simmons has long been a commanding figure in plastic art4 ,no ,american sculptor abroad has1 perhaps1 received so many important public commissions as have been given to him4 ,he has created nearly a score of memorial groups2 he has modelled over one hundred portrait busts and statues4 ,his industry has kept step with his genius4 ,the latest success of ,mr4 ,simmons in the line of monumental art is the statue 7in bronze7 of ,alexander ,hamilton1 which was unveiled at ,paterson1 ,n4 ,j41 in ,may of #aijg4 ,the splendidly poised figure1 the dignity1 the serene strength and yet the intense energy of the expression and of the entire pose are a revelation in the art of the portrait statue4 ,it is not1 however1 true that ,mr4 ,simmons has ever resigned himself to the necessity of producing portrait and memorial sculpture exclusively4 ,in the realm of the purely ideal ,mr4 ,simmons finds his most felicitous field for creative work4 ,a bas-relief entitled ,the ,genius of ,progress ,leading the ,nations1 with all its splendid fire and action1 the motif being that of the spirits ,life and ,light beating down and driving out the spirits of darkness and evil2 ,the ,angel of the ,resurrection1 with its glad1 triumphant assertion of the power of the immortal life2 the poetry and sacredness of maternity as typified in the ,mother of ,moses2 the statues of the ,galatea and the ,medusa1 and other ideal creations1 indicate the vision and the faculty divine of ,mr4 ,simmons4 ,to a very great degree his art is that which the ,french describe as the grand manner1 and to this is added a spiritual quality1 a power of radiating the intellectual purpose1 the profounder thought and the aspiration of the subject represented4 ,illustration3 ,,mother ,,of ,,moses ,franklin ,simmons ,page #ajh ,one of the most charming of these ideal works is a statue of ,penelope1 represented seated in the chair1 her rich robe falling in graceful folds1 and the little ,greek fillet binding her hair4 ,the face bears a meditative expression1 into which has entered a hint of pathos and wistfulness in the dawning wonder as to whether1 after all1 ,ulysses will return4 ,the classic beauty of the pose2 the exquisite modelling of the bust and arms and hands1 every curve and contour so ideally lovely2 the distinction of the figure in its noble and refined patrician elegance1 are combined to render this work one that well deserves immortality in art1 and to rank as a masterpiece in modern sculpture4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,genius ,,of ,,progress ,,leading ,,the ,,nations ,franklin ,simmons ,page #ajg ,another of his ideal figures1 ,the ,promised ,land1 is a work of great spiritual exaltation and beauty4 ,an ,israelite woman has just arrived at the point when before her vision gleams the ,promised ,land2 the face tells its own story of all she has passed through1--the trials1 the sadness1 the obstacles to be overcome2 but now she sees the fulfilment of her hopes and dreams4 ,it is a most interesting creation1 and one in which is portrayed the artist's spiritual insight and susceptibility to poetic exaltation4 ,to one visitor to ,mr4 ,simmons's studio this statue suggested the following lines3-- ,fair on her sight it gleams1--the ,promised ,land6 ,the rose of dawn sifts through the azure air1 ,and all her weariness and toil and care ,vanish1 as if from her some tender hand ,lifted the burden1 and transformed the hour ,to this undreamed-of sense of joy and power6 ,the rapture and the ecstasy divine ,are deep realities that only wait ,their hour to dawn1 nor ever rise too late ,to draw the soul to its immortal shrine4 ,o ,sculptor6 thy great gift has shaped this clay1 ,to image the profoundest truth1 and stand ,as witness of the spirit power that may ,achieve the vision of the ,promised ,land6 ,illustration3 ,,valley ,,forge ,franklin ,simmons ,page #aaj ,in a statuette in bronze called ,valley ,forge1 ,mr4 ,simmons has fairly incarnated the entire spirit of the ,revolutionary period in that mysterious way recognized only in its result2 all that unparalleled epoch of tragic intensity and sublime triumph lives again in this work4 ,the fidelity to a lofty ideal which essentially characterizes ,mr4 ,simmons is as unswerving as that of ,merlin1 who followed ,the ,gleam4 ,great the ,master ,and sweet the ,magic ,when over the valley ,in early summers1 ,over the mountain1 ,on human faces1 ,and all around me ,moving to melody1 ,floated the ,gleam4 ,this ,american sculptor who1 in his early youth1 sought the artistic atmosphere of ,rome as the environment most stimulating to his dawning power1 who accepted with unfailing courage the incidental privations of art life in a foreign land more renowned for beauty than for comfort1 who 444 never turned his back1 but marched breast forward1 ,never doubted clouds would break1 has expressed his message in many purely ideal works1--the message that the true artist must always give to the world and that leads humanity to the crowning truth of life1 that of the ceaseless progress of the soul in its immortality4 ,for the brief and significant assertion of the apostle condenses the most profound truth of life when he says3-- ,to be carnally minded is death2 but to be spiritually minded is life and peace4 ,in these words are imaged the supreme purpose of all the experiences of the life on earth2 and to the artist whose works bear this lofty message of the triumph of spirituality1 his reward shall appear1 not in the praise of men1 but in the effect on character that his efforts have aided to exalt2 in the train of nobler influences that his work shall perpetually inspire and create4 ,mr4 ,simmons has always found ,rome potent in fascination4 ,one may not want to go to ,st4 ,peter's every day1 but one knows it is there1 and there is some inexplicable satisfaction in being where it is possible to easily enter this impressive interior4 ,one may not go near the ,forum for a month1 or even a season1 but the knowledge that one may find it and the wonderful ,palatine ,hill any hour of any day is a perpetual delight4 ,the ,vatican galleries1 with their great masterpieces2 the ,sistine ,chapel1 the stately1 splendid impressiveness of ,san ,giovanni ,laterano2 the wanderings in ,villa ,borghese1 and the picturesque climbing of the ,spanish steps1 even all the inconveniences and deprivations1 become a part of the story of ,rome which the artist absorbs and loves4 ,the studios of ,mr4 ,simmons in the ,via ,san ,nicolo da ,tolentino are a centre of artistic resort1 and his personal life is one of distinction amid the picturesque beauty and enchantment of the ,eternal ,city4 ,for many years 7until the death of ,mrs4 ,simmons in #aije7 the sculptor and his wife had their home in the beautiful ,palazzo ,tamagno in the ,via ,agostino ,depretis1 where one of those spacious apartments of twenty to thirty rooms1 only to be found in a ,roman palace1 was made by them a brilliant centre of social life4 ,mrs4 ,simmons was herself a musical artist1 with impassioned devotion to music2 and her rare personal charm and distinction of presence drew around her a most interesting circle4 ,her receptions were for many years a noted feature of ,roman society4 ,the social life in ,rome is very brilliant1 interesting1 and fascinating4 ,the sight-seeing is a kind of attendant atmosphere1--the perpetual environment offering1 but not intruding itself4 ,people come to ,rome for reasons quite disconnected with the ,golden ,house of ,nero or the latest archological discoveries in the ,forum4 ,the present1 rather than the past1 calls to them1 and the present1 too1 is resplendent and alluring4 ,of the foreign painters in ,rome1 ,charles ,walter ,stetson1 whose work recalls the glory of the old ,italian masters1 is especially distinguished for his genius as a colorist4 ,no visitor in ,rome can afford to miss the studio of one of the most imaginative of modern artists4 ,a wonderful picture still in process is a genre work with several figures1 called ,music4 ,an idyllic scene of a festa amid the ilex trees--with the ,italian sky and the golden sunshine pervading a luminous atmosphere1 while the joyous abandon of the dancers appeals to all who love ,italy--is one of the many beautiful pictorial scenes of ,mr4 ,stetson which enchant the eye and haunt the imagination4 ,another picture is called ,beggars1--a name that illy suggests its splendor4 ,there is the faade of a church to which a long flight of steps leads up1 a procession of cardinals and friars in their rich robes1 while at one side the groups of beggars shrink into the darkness4 ,it is an impressive commentary upon life4 ,for a long period1 through the early and middle years of the nineteenth century1 ,rome held her place as the world centre of modern artistic activity4 ,great works of poetic and ideal sculpture elevated the general public taste to a high degree of appreciation4 ,the standards were not ingeniously adjusted to mere spectacular methods whose sole appeal was to the crude fancy of possible patrons4 ,art held her absolute and inviolate ideals1 and the spirit of her votaries might well have been interpreted in ,mrs4 ,browning's words3-- ,i1 who love my art1 ,would never wish it lower to suit my stature4 ,the tone of public appreciation is raised to a high quality only when the artist refuses to sell his soul for a mess of pottage4 ,he may1 to be sure1 need the pottage1 but the price is too great4 ,rather will he find his attitude expressed in these wonderful lines3-- ,i can live ,at least my soul's life without alms from men4 ,and if it be in heaven instead of earth1 ,let heaven look to it--,i am not afraid4 ,all art that has within itself true vitality must ever be the leader and the creator of the popular taste2 only when it falls into decadence does it become the servile follower4 ,it is a serious question as to the degree in which the art of to-day keeps faith with the eternal ideals4 ,the great expositions of the past quarter of a century1 while they have contributed immeasurably to the popularization of art and to the familiarization of the public with the work of individual painters and sculptors1 have yet1 in many ways1 been a demoralizing influence in their insidious temptation to produce pictures or plastic art calculated to arrest immediate attention1 thus putting a premium on the spectacular1 the sensational1 on that which makes the most immediate and direct appeal to the senses4 ,the work becomes fairly a personal document wrought with perhaps an almost amazing finesse1 but utterly failing in power to inspire joyous sensibility to beauty or to impart to the gazer that glow of radiant energy which lofty art invariably communicates to all who respond to its infinite exaltation4 ,all great art is inspired by religious ideals4 ,painting and sculpture give to these a presence4 ,under their creative power are these ideals manifested4 ,to embody them in living form becomes the absolute responsibility of the artist4 ,in ,greece all the fortunate conditions to produce great art were curiously combined and pre-eminently supported by the conjunction of events and by the prevailing sentiment of the time4 ,the artist drew his inspiration from the most exalted conception of life embodied in gods rather than in men4 ,art1 too1 was an affair of the state4 ,it was the supreme interest and held national importance4 ,the temple was erected to form an inclosure for the statue1 rather than that the statue was created as an adornment for the temple4 ,the greatest gifts were consecrated to the service of art1 and under these stimulating influences it is little wonder that artistic creation achieved that vital potency which has thrilled all succeeding centuries and has communicated to them something of the divine air of that remote period4 ,with the ,renaissance in ,italy art culminated in the immortal work of ,raphael and ,michael ,angelo4 ,in the ,sistine ,chapel1 where that sublime grouping of prophets and sibyls speaks of the very miracle of art in their impassioned fire and glow2 where the figures1 the pose1 the draperies are so grandly noble and infused with dignity and presence1--the very atmosphere is vocal with the language of the spirit and the expressions of religious reverence4 ,these marvellous shapes of grandeur and sublime intimations carry the soul into a conscious communion with the divine4 ,in these stupendous works ,michael ,angelo has given to all the ages the message of the highest exaltation of art4 ,in the technique1 in the marvellous dignity of the sentiment1 in the depth of the feeling involved1 in the grace and power of the composition1 these works embody the artistic possibilities of painting4 ,are such works as those of ,canova and ,thorwaldsen no longer created8 ,can it be that art is no longer of national importance8 ,in our own country vast appropriations are made for internal improvements of all kinds1 while art that kindles and re-enforces life is almost ignored4 ,our government--the government of the richest country in the world--appropriated #bjj1jjj for a memorial monument to ,general ,grant to be placed in ,washington1 while ,italy--whose resources are so slender in comparison--appropriates seven million dollars--thirty-five times the amount--for her great monument to ,victor ,emmanuel which is now being erected in ,rome to stand near the ,capitol and the ,palace of the ,quirinale4 ,great art has always been closely associated with great devotion to religious ideals4 ,the artist was the servant of the ,lord1 and it was his supreme purpose to embody the aspirations of the age and render his works a full and complete symbol of those true realities of life which have their being in the spiritual universe rather than in the changing temporal world of the outer universe4 ,the so-called realism of the day is based on a false interpretation4 ,the things that are seen are temporal1 while the things that are not seen are eternal4 ,true realism is in spiritual qualities1 not in physical attributes4 ,true realism is found in such works as ,canova's sublime group1 where the figures of ,religion and of ,death forever impress all who stand before this magnificent monument2 it is found in ,thorwaldsen's ,christ2 in ,franklin ,simmons's ,angel of the ,resurrection1--in such works as those that have a language for the soul1 rather than in a ,saturnalia4 ,again1 another fatal rock on which art must inevitably make shipwreck is the theory that it is good to perpetuate ugliness1 in either painting or in sculpture4 ,the permanent reality of life is beauty4 ,so far as any person or object departs from this enduring reality1 so far it is the result of distortion and deformity1 and these1 being the temporary1 the accidental1 the deficient1 should not be perpetuated in ideal creation4 ,it is an ,apollo who embodies the permanent ideal of manhood--not a cripple or a hunchback4 ,still further3 art should not only refuse to embody the defective1 which is a mere negative2 it should not only give form to the utmost perfection it beholds in nature or in humanity1 but beyond this the responsibility is upon the artist to penetrate into loftier realms1 to catch the vision not revealed to mortals4 ,the artist is1 by virtue of his high calling1 a co-worker with ,god4 ,an ,english wit has declared that life copies art rather than that art copies life4 ,in this he expresses a truth rather than a merely clever epigram4 ,it is the artist's business to lead1 not to follow4 ,only as he leads does he fulfil his divinely appointed destiny4 ,i maintain that life is not a form of energy1 writes ,sir ,oliver ,lodge2 that it is not included in our present physical categories2 that its explanation is still to be sought4 ,and it appears to me to belong to a separate order of existence1 which interacts with this material frame of things1 and while here exerts guidance and control on the energy which already here exists2 for although they alter the quantity of energy no whit1 and though they merely utilize available energy like any other machine1 live things are able to direct inorganic terrestrial energy along new and special paths1 so as to achieve results without which such living agency could not have occurred4 ,does it for an instant seem that a great scientist's theoretical speculations of the laws of the universe and of organic life have no connection with the province of art8 ,on the contrary4 ,truly does ,balzac exclaim3 ,is not ,god the whole of science1 the all of love1 the source of poetry8 ,the artist is he who enters into the divine realm2 who discerns the divine creations as the true ideals of humanity1 and who interprets to the world the sublime significance of the divine thought4 ,shall such an artist degrade his power by portraying ugliness--the mere defects of negations and distortions8 ,shall he degrade life by calling these the realities8 ,illustration3 ,,la ,,pieta1 ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,rome ,michael ,angelo ,page #aag ,the painter or sculptor who holds that it is as truly art to represent distortion and repulsiveness as it is to represent beauty is as false to his high calling as would be the poet who should insist that doggerel and mere commonplace truisms expressed in rhyme are poetry4 ,compare1 for example1 two statues1 ,cecioni's ,la ,madre1 in which a woman's utter lack of personal attraction is so complete as to make her fairly repulsive to the gazer1 and the ,mother of ,moses1 by ,franklin ,simmons1 in which the mystic beauty1 the very ideal of maternity1 is embodied4 ,which of these statues is calculated to uplift and to exalt all who come near8 ,this marvellously beautiful creation of ,mr4 ,simmons shows a woman of exquisite delicacy and loveliness sitting1 slightly bending forward1 holding her baby to her breast4 ,the modelling of the draped figure with the bare arms and neck revealing the tender curves1 the yielding delicacy of the flesh and that inscrutable light upon the beautiful countenance1 whose expression suggests that she is looking far into the future of the infant whom she holds in her arms1 are a wonderful portrayal of the mystery and the sacredness of motherhood4 ,the one statue degrades maternity2 the other ennobles and exalts4 ,the one embodies a pernicious and a false ideal2 the other embodies the ideal that must appeal to all that is noble and divine in human life1 and it thus ministers to moral progress by its contribution to the elevation of the social tone4 ,for indeed1 life follows art4 ,it is art that exerts this powerful influence upon life which it may lead to loftier heights or drag down to the moral abyss4 ,the artist is not merely the portrayer of existing types2 he is the inspirer of those ideal types which human life should recognize as its pattern1 its model to be followed and ultimately achieved4 ,the world needs ideal and poetic art to minister to the attainment of the true social life and to the full and complete expression of man himself4 ,do not the visions of ,fra ,angelico and ,botticelli still inspire the artist of to-day with the absolute realization of all the deep significance of the past8 ,is there never a retroscope mirror1 ,in the realms and corners of space1 ,that can give us a glimpse of the battle1 ,and the soldiers face to face8 ,religion and art are inseparably united4 ,in its true significance religion takes precedence of all else in that its influence is felt in every department and in every direction and expression of man's activity4 ,it is the inexhaustible fountain of that lofty energy which communicates itself to every channel that carries inspiration to life and to art4 ,religion is the influence that redeems the mere shallow1 surface presentation1--the petty trick to capture popularity1 and holds art true to its real purpose4 ,the glory of the medival art of ,italy owed its greatness to religion4 ,cimabue and ,giotto were directly inspired by that spring of a diviner life given to ,italy and later to the world of that sweet saint1 ,francis of ,assisi4 ,in an age of cruelty and terror he brought the new message that man is dear to ,god2 that the soul is ceaselessly joyful2 that man1 created in the divine image1 is a part of the divine life1 and that only when he lives in this response and recognition does he truly live at all4 ,in this restatement of the truth that ,jesus came to proclaim1 ,st4 ,francis opened the way for a revival of art1 and opened the gates of that infinite and divine energy which has immortally recorded itself for all ages in the ,divina ,comedia of ,dante4 ,the irresistible wave of power which resulted from that liberating of thought1 feeling1 and emotion by the work of ,st4 ,francis expressed itself in the sublimest poem of all the ages1 and in that glorious triumph of art that is still the treasure and the source of artistic inspiration4 ,it is only when the world is lifted out of the limitations of the material by a period of great art that humanity is brought into close and inspiring relation with the living ,christ4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,henry ,wadsworth ,longfellow3 ,houghton1 ,mifflin ,co4 ,men and women make the world1 ,as head and heart make human life4 ,,mrs4 ,,browning4 99 99 99 99 99 ,alas1 our memories may retrace ,each circumstance of time and place2 ,season and scene come back again1 ,and outward things unchanged remain2 ,the rest we cannot reinstate1 ,ourselves we cannot re-create1 ,nor set our souls to the same key ,of the remembered harmony4 ,,longfellow4 ,and as1 after the lapse of a thousand years1 you stand upon that hallowed spot1 the yellow ,tiber flowing sluggishly beneath you1 the ruins of the ,eternal ,city all around you speaking of fallen greatness1 the mighty ,basilica of ,st4 ,peter rising before you like some modern tower of ,babel that would monopolize the road to heaven1 the eye rests upon the figure of the ,archangel sheathing his glittering sword upon the summit of the ,castle of ,st4 ,angelo1 and the heart asks1 ,why should that be a legend8 ,why should that be a projection of a morbid and devout imagination8 ,why should it not have been the clairvoyance of supernatural ecstasy opening the world of spirits8 ,it was no unreality when the angel of ,god1 with his sword drawn in his hand1 withstood the prophet ,balaam4 ,it was no morbid imagination when the angel of ,god smote with the edge of the sword the first-born of the land of ,egypt4 ,it was no imposture when the shining hosts of the army of the ,almighty smote the ,assyrians4 ,it was no deception when ,gabriel1 the ,king's messenger from the court of heaven1 was sent to comfort ,daniel by the river ,hiddekel2 or when he announced to the maiden1 whom all generations have called blessed1 that she was to be the mother of the ,divine ,redeemer4444 ,the written ,word from first to last is full of the holy angels4 ,it begins with angels1 it ends with angels4 ,,the ,,venerable ,,archdeacon ,,wilberforce1 ,westminster ,abbey4 ,,ii ,,social ,,life ,,in ,,the ,,eternal ,,city ,and others came1--,desires and ,adorations1 ,winged ,persuasions and ,veiled ,destinies6 ,,shelley4 ,in what ethereal dances6 ,by what eternal streams6 ,,poe4 ,social life in ,rome is no misnomer4 ,from the most stately and beautiful ceremonials of balls at the court of the ,quirinale1 in ducal palaces1 or at the embassies2 of dinners whose every detail suggests stage pictures in their magnificence1 to the simple afternoon tea1 where conversation and music enchant the hours2 the morning call en tte--tte1 and the morning stroll1 or the late afternoon drive1--a season in ,rome prefigures itself1 by the necromancy of retrospective vision1 as a resplendent panorama of pictorial scenes4 ,there rise before one those mornings1 all gold and azure1 of loitering over the stone parapet on ,monte ,pincio1 gazing down on the city in her most alluring mood4 ,the new bridge that is to connect the ,pincio with the ,villa ,borghese is a picturesque feature in its unfinished state2 but the vision traverses the deep ravine and revels in the scene of the ,borghese grounds carpeted with flowers4 ,its picturesque slopes under the great trees1 with a view of ,michael ,angelo's dome in the near distance1 are the resort of morning strollers1 who find that lovely picture of ,charles ,walter ,stetson's--a stretch of landscape under the ilex trees1 the scarlet gowns of the divinity students giving vivid accents of color here and there--fairly reproduced in nature before their vision4 ,one should never be in haste as the bewildering beauty of the ,roman spring weaves its emerald fantasies on grass and trees1 and touches into magical bloom the scarlet poppies that flame over all the meadows1 and caress roses and hyacinths and lilies of the valley into delicate bloom and floating fragrance until the ,eternal ,city is no more ,rome1 but ,arcady1 instead--one should never be in haste to toss his penny into the ,fontane de ,trevi4 ,yet in another way it may work for him an immediate spell that defies all other necromancy4 ,judiciously thrown in1 on the very eve of departure1 it is the conjurer that insures his return2 but at any time prior to this it may even weave the irresistible enchantment that falls upon him and may prevent his leaving at all4 ,nor can he summon up the moral courage to regret even the missing of all other engagements1 and the failure to keep faith with his plans4 ,for in the ,may days ,rome falls upon him anew1 like a revelation1 and he is ready to confess that he has never seen her who sees her not in her springtime loveliness4 ,the ,italian winter by no means lives up to its reputation4 ,it is not the chill of any one special day that discourages one from any further effort to continue in this vale of tears1 but the cold that has1 apparently1 the chill and dampness and cold of all those two thousand and two hundred and sixty winters that have gone before which concentrate themselves in the atmosphere4 ,one could presumably endure with some degree of courage1 if not equanimity1 the chill in the air of any one winter2 but when all the chill and cold that has ever existed in more than the two thousand winters of the past concentrates itself in the winter1 say1 of #aijf-g1 why1 patience ceases to be a virtue although one that the sojourner in ,rome is particularly called upon to practise if he fares forth to visit churches and galleries in the winter4 ,torrents of rain pour down1 rivalling the cloud-bursts of ,arizona4 ,virgil's cave of the winds apparently lets loose its sharpest blasts4 ,tramontana and sirocco alternate1 and each is more unendurable than the other4 ,the encircling mountains are white with snow4 ,the streets are a sea of mud1 for they are paved with small stones1 and except in the new ,villa ,ludovisi quarter and along the ,via ,nazionale and a few other of the newer thoroughfares there are no sidewalks1 the foot passengers 7in all old ,rome7 pressing close to the wall to avoid the dangerously near proximity of carts and cabs4 ,this rough pavement makes all driving hard and walking difficult4 ,the ,roman lady1 indeed1 does not walk2 and the visitors who cannot forego the joy of daily promenades enter into the feelings of that nation which is said to take its pleasures sadly4 ,but spring works a transformation scene4 ,the air is filled with the most transparent shining haze2 the sky lacks little of that intense1 melting blue that characterizes the ineffable beauty of the skies in ,arizona2 and ruins and fragments and strange relics--ghosts of the historic past--are all enshrined in trailing green and riotous blossoms4 ,to drive on the terraced roads of ,monte ,mario with all ,rome and the emerald-green ,campagna before one2 through the romantic ,lovers' ,lane1 walled in by roses and myrtle2 to enjoy the local life1 full of gayety and brilliancy1 is to know ,rome in her most gracious aspects4 ,one goes for strolls in the old ,colonna ,gardens1 where still remain the ruins of the ,temple of the ,sun and of the ,baths of ,constantine4 ,the terraces offer lovely views over the city4 ,the old palace is occupied by the present ,prince ,colonna1 and it is not unfrequently the scene of most elaborate and gorgeous receptions where the traditional ,roman splendor is to be found4 ,a series of arched bridges over the narrow street of the ,via della ,pilotta connect the ,gardens with the ,colonna ,palace in the ,piazza ,san ,apostoli4 ,very fine old sarcophagi are half buried in trailing vines on the slope of the hill1 dark with magnificent cypress trees4 ,the ,colonna ,gardens are a very dream of the past1 in their ruins of old temples1 their shattered statues1 their strange old tablets and inscriptions1 and their grand view of the ,capitol4 ,in one's retrospective vision of a ,roman season all the inconveniences and discomforts of the winter disappear1 leaving only the beauty and the enjoyment to be developed1 as the photographer would say1 on the sensitive plate of memory4 ,no one really knows ,rome until he has watched the transcendent loveliness of spring investing every nook and corner of the ,eternal ,city4 ,the picturesque ,spanish steps are a very garden of fragrance1 the lower steps of the terraced flight being taken possession of by the flower venders who display their wares1--masses of white lilac1 flame-colored roses1 rose and purple hyacinths and baskets of violets and carnations4 ,did all this fragrance and beauty send up its incense to ,keats as he lay in the house adjoining1 with the musical plash of ,bernini's fountain under his window8 ,it is pleasant to know that by the appreciation of ,american and ,english authors1 the movement effectively directed by ,robert ,underwood ,johnson1 this house consecrated to a poet's memory has been purchased to be a permanent memorial to ,keats and to ,shelley4 ,a library of their works will be arranged in it2 and portraits1 busts1 and all mementos that can be collected of these poets will render this memorial one of the beautiful features of ,rome4 ,from the flower venders and the circulating libraries in the ,piazza di ,spagna that allure one in the morning1 from the fascinating glitter of the little ,via ,condotti which is1 in its way1 the rue de la ,paix of ,rome1 one leisurely climbs the steps to where the great obelisk looms up in front of the ,convent ,church of the ,trinit di ,monti and on1 across the ,piazza di ,trinit1 toward the ,pincian1 one wanders along the brow of the hill surmounted by the low stone parapet4 ,the view is a dream of beauty4 ,over the valley lies ,monte ,mario1 crowned with the ,villa ,madama1 silhouetted against the blue ,roman sky2 and the commanding dome of ,st4 ,peter's1 the splendid new white marble buildings of the ,law ,courts1 the domes of other churches1 all make up a picturesque panorama1 while on the ,janiculum the great equestrian statue of ,garibaldi can be descried4 ,strolling on1 one turns into the gardens of the ,villa ,medici1 the ,french ,academy of ,art1 in which the present director1 the great ,carolus ,duran1 is domiciled and in which twenty-four students--of painting1 sculpture1 music1 and architecture--are maintained at the expense of the ,french government for several years1 the twenty four being chosen from those who have given signal proof of their ability4 ,the ,villa ,medici has1 perhaps1 a more beautiful site than any other building in ,rome4 ,facing the west1 with the ,janiculum and ,monte ,mario forever before it1 while below lies the ,piazza di ,spagna and the ,piazza del ,popolo1 and all the changing splendors of the sunset sky as a perpetual picture gallery1 the situation is1 indeed1 magnificent4 ,it is still conceivable1 however1 that ,monsieur ,carolus ,duran must have many quarters of an hour when he longs for the brilliancy and the movement and the stimulus of his ,paris4 ,the gardens of the ,villa ,medici are large1 but they are laid out with narrow paths bordered with box1 forming a wall as impervious as if of stone1 and dark and damp by the shade of foliage4 ,these walks are paved with gravel1 and are always damp4 ,these formal rectangles and alleys are utterly shut in1 so that in any one part one can see only the two dense green walls of box that inclose him and the glimpse of sky overhead1--not precisely a cheering promenade4 ,this is the ,italian idea of a garden4 ,much broken sculpture1 weather-stained and defective1 is placed all along the way1 and the perpetual ,roman fountain is always gushing somewhere4 ,illustration3 ,,villa ,,medici1 ,,rome ,page #acd ,another phase of the ,roman season may rise before one in the stately beauty of any old historic palace1 where the hostess1 all grace and sweetness1 receives her guests in the apartment in which ,galileo had been confined when imprisoned in ,rome4 ,the approach to this piano nobile was up a flight of easily graded marble stairs1 where in frequent niches stood old statues4 ,the large windows in the corridor on the landing were curtained with pale yellow1 thus creating a golden light to fall on the old sculptured marbles4 ,one salon was decorated with ,flaxman's drawings on the wall1 in their classical outlines4 ,from a steep1 dark stone stairway1 down which one descended 7at the imminent risk of a broken neck in the darkness and from the irregular stairs rudely carved in the stone71 one emerged on a landing1 where a little door opened into the balcony of the chapel1 a curious1 gloomy place1 with tombs and altar and shrine1 and some very poor old paintings4 ,one's progress to it recalled the lines from ,poe's ,ulalume3-- ,by a route1 obscure and lonely1 ,haunted by ill angels only4 ,then1 sitting in one of the richly decorated salons at afternoon tea in this same old palace one day1 while an accomplished harpist was discoursing delicate music from its vibrating chords1 flights of birds kept passing a window1 making a scene like that of a ,wagner opera4 ,the groups present1 largely of the ,roman nobility1 the titled aristocracy1 resembling so closely some of the old portraits in the palazzo that it was easy to recognize that they were all one people1 descendants of the same race4 ,many of the guests looked1 indeed1 as if they had stepped from out the sumptuously carved frames on the wall4 ,at these pretty festas one meets much of the resident ,roman world4 ,the guests assembled seem to be speaking in all the romance languages4 ,there are ,russian and ,spanish as well as ,italian1 ,french1 ,german1 and ,english at these alluring teas4 ,all the salons of the spacious apartments are thrown open1 and the men in their picturesque court dress or military costume1 and the women and girls in dainty gowns1 make up an alluring scene4 ,the salons are richly furnished and abound in works of art1 old pictures1 inlaid cabinets1 carvings1 rich vases1 busts1 and statuettes4 ,the library1 with its wealth of books2 the music room2 the salon for dancing2 the supper room1 and the quiet rooms where groups gather before the blazing open fires1 grateful in these lofty rooms whose temperature suggests the frozen circles of ,dante1--all make up a delightful picture4 ,one meets the most varying individualities4 ,a ,russian lady of title may confide her conviction that her country is ruined1 and that she never desires to return to it4 ,italy is the country that attracts not only political refugees from other ,european countries1 but many who are out of sympathy with conditions elsewhere and who find the cosmopolitan society and the varied interests of this land of sunshine their most enjoyable environment4 ,one pleasant feature of a ,roman winter is that of the usual course of lectures given by ,professor ,lanciani4 ,the celebrated archologist is a man of special personal charm1 and his conversation1 as well as his public lectures1 is full of interest and value4 ,the lectures are given under the auspices of the ,societ ,archeologica1 and a special subject recently discussed was the celebration to be held in #aiaa in ,rome4 ,one project for this celebration includes the plan to lay out a carriage road around the ,forum and the ,palatine1 and also around the ,baths of ,titus and of ,caracalla1 extending the drive to all those places included between the ,appian and the ,latin ,way1 the ,villa ,celimontana and the ,circus ,maximus4 ,professor ,lanciani discussed the artistic history of ,rome and the different appearances the city took on in different periods2 the regulation plan drawn up by ,julius ,csar and accepted and carried out by ,augustus1 by which one-fifth of the total area of the city was reserved for public parks4 ,in the third century of the empire the city was inclosed by parks and crossed from end to end by delightful portico gardens1 where valuable works of art were collected4 ,during the period of the ,renaissance there were the famous villas and the ,cesarini ,park on the slopes of the ,esquiline1 and after regretting the many unnecessary acts of vandalism committed since #ahgj in ,rome1 ,professor ,lanciani suggested that a complete reconstruction of the ,baths of ,caracalla should be made1 to serve in #aiaa as the ,exhibition ,building4 ,he believed no artistic difficulties would present themselves1 as in the fifteenth century different architects took plaster casts of the decorations of the statues and of every detail of the ,baths4 ,the archological exhibition would be arranged in the two large halls1 another hall would be for concerts1 another for lectures1 the others for different congresses to be held4 ,in this way ,rome would inaugurate for #aiaa the ,medival ,museum in ,castel ,sant',angelo1 the medival collections in the ,torre degli ,anguillara1 and the grand archological exhibition in the reconstructed ,baths of ,caracalla4 ,italian women are by no means behind the age in their organizations to aid in social progress4 ,the most important one in ,italy is that of the leading women of the nobility and aristocracy1 called ,the ,society for ,women's ,work1 which holds annual meetings1 over which ,lady ,aberdeen1 the president of the ,international ,council1 and the ,contessa ,spalletti1 the president of the ,national ,council of ,italy1 preside4 ,many of the prominent women of the ,italian nobility are taking active part in the larger outlook for women2 and in this movement ,margherita1 la ,regina ,madre1 leads the way1 supported by a large following of the titled nobility4 ,margherita holds the hearts of the people1 remarked ,cora1 ,contessa di ,brazz ,savorgnan1 at a brilliant little dinner one night1 and no expression could more admirably represent the feeling of the nation toward the ,queen ,mother4 ,queen ,elena as the reigning sovereign has1 of course1 her exclusive royal prerogatives1 and she has youth and initiative and precedence2 but ,margherita is a most attractive woman1 with learning and accomplishments galore1 and she has an art of conversation that allures and fascinates visiting foreigners of learning and wit1 as well as of rank4 ,roman society is not large numerically1 and the same people are constantly meeting and consolidating their many points of contact and interest4 ,social life in these ,italian cities is the supreme occupation of the residents1 and one must concede that in proportion as one meets the same people constantly does society gain in dramatic interest4 ,with each person who is in any sense an individual the play of life begins4 ,it gains in dramatic sequence as it proceeds4 ,the ,eternal ,city is a wonderful scenic setting for the human drama4 ,local gossip suggests perceptible rivalry between the stately palace of the ,king and the pink palace on the hill1 in which ,margherita holds her state with not less ceremony than that observed at the ,court of the ,quirinale4 ,it is a beautiful thing for a country to have in it a woman of high position1 of leisure and of culture1 who is so admirably fitted to be the friend of the people as is ,margherita4 ,she is a connoisseur in art2 she has a most intelligent interest in science2 she is a critical lover of literature2 she is a wise and judicious and deeply sympathetic leader in all philanthropic work and purposes4 ,one can hardly visit painter or poet or artist in any line1 or school1 institute1 or association1 but that he hears of the personal sympathy and encouragement bestowed by this noble and beautiful ,italian ,queen1--the ,regina ,madre4 ,practically there are1 indeed1 two courts in ,rome2 that of the ,palazzo ,margherita seeming to quite rival that held at the ,palazzo ,quirinale4 ,the palace of the ,queen ,mother is an imposing three-story structure of pink-hued marble1 with beautiful gardens and terraces1 and adjoining it1 in the palace grounds1 is a marble villa1 used for the entertainment of royal guests4 ,this palace has been the residence of ,margherita when in ,rome since the tragic death of ,king ,umberto1 in #aijj4 ,it is in the ,ludovisi quarter1 and stands on the very site of the ,gardens of ,sallust4 ,the ,queen ,mother receives noted visitors constantly1 and entertains visiting royalties and members of the aristocracy4 ,no great man of science1 literature1 and art visits ,rome without seeking a presentation to the liberal-minded and accomplished ,regina ,madre1 who is one of the most winning and attractive of all the royal women of ,europe4 ,it has become quite a feature in introducing young girls to present them first in private audience to ,margherita1 and then later to ,queen ,elena at the ,court of the ,quirinale4 ,surely no girl could be given a lovelier idea of womanhood than that embodied in the ,dowager ,queen4 ,when the poet ,carducci died in the early months of #aijg1 ,margherita sent beautiful messages of consolation to his family1 and1 later1 to his home city of ,bologna she sent the following letter3-- ,i announce that ,i make a free gift to the city of ,bologna of the house where ,giosu ,carducci passed the last years of his life1 and the library he collected there4 ,bologna1 that showed such affectionate hospitality for ,giosu ,carducci for so many years1 and surrounded him with so much devotion1 will know1 ,i feel sure1 how to carefully preserve this remembrance of the greatest poet of modern ,italy4 ,,margherita4 ,the ,syndic replied in a letter hardly less fine in its expression of ,bologna's appreciation1 and with assurances that the name of the first ,queen of ,italy will in future be forever associated with ,italy's greatest modern poet4 ,the ,regio ,palazzo del ,quirinale is near the ,capitol1 in the older part of the city1 and only a small part of this is shown to visitors when the ,king and ,queen are in residence4 ,the ,sala ,regia may be seen1 the chapel in which are preserved a large number of the wreaths and the addresses sent from all parts of the civilized world on the occasion of the death of ,victor ,emmanuel ,,ii1 and a suite of reception rooms1 the throne room with many historic portraits1 the ,sala des ,ambassadeurs1 and the audience chamber1 containing ,thorwaldsen's ,triumphal ,procession of ,alexander the ,great1 a gift from ,napoleon ,i4 ,in the small chapel of the ,annunciation is an altar piece by ,guido ,reni4 ,to artists the ,queen ,mother is most generously kind4 ,one of the younger ,italian sculptors1 ,turillo ,sindoni1 ,cavaliere of the ,crown of ,italy1 whose latest creation is a very beautiful statue of ,st4 ,agnes1 has his studios in the ,via del ,babuino1 and to especially favored visitors he sometimes exhibits a beautiful letter that he received from ,margherita1 who purchased two of his statues4 ,with the letter expressing her warm appreciation of his art was an exquisite gift of jewelled sleeve-links4 ,notwithstanding the fascinating lectures of ,professor ,lanciani and the valuable and interesting work in the ,forum that is being accomplished under the efficient directorship of ,commendatore ,boni1 yet all the roads that traditionally lead to ,rome do not converge to the palace on the ,palatine4 ,modern ,rome is only mildly archological1 and while it takes occasional recognition of the ancient monuments1 and drives to the crypt of old ,st4 ,agnes1 to the tomb of ,cecilia ,metella1 and may manage a descent into the catacomb of ,st4 ,calixtus1 it is far more actively interested in its dancing and dining and driving4 ,as a scenic background for festivities ,rome is a success1 and as one comes into social touch with the titled nobility1 and the resident life1 by birth or adoption1 one finds a city of infinite human interest and picturesque possibilities4 ,between the ,whites 7the loyal followers of the ,palazzo ,quirinale and the ,king7 and the ,blacks 7the devoted followers of the ,palazzo ,vaticano and the ,pope7 a great gulf is fixed over which no one may cross4 ,pope ,pius ,x is wonderfully accessible1 considering the great responsibilities and duties he has on him1 and his generous goodness1 his gracious tact and the beauty of his spirit endear him to all1 ,catholic or ,protestant alike1 for every one recognizes in him the ,christian gentleman1 whose ideals of gentleness and inspiring helpfulness impress themselves on all who are so fortunate as to meet him4 ,the most impressive ceremonial receptions of the ,blacks are those given at the ,spanish ,embassy in the ,piazza di ,spagna4 ,at the ,embassy or in the private palace of any ,roman noble which a ,cardinal honors by accepting an invitation1 he is received according to a most picturesque old ,roman custom4 ,at the foot of the stairs two servants bearing lighted torches meet his ,eminence1 and1 making a profound obeisance1 escort him to the portals of the grand reception salon and await1 in the corridor1 his return4 ,on his departure they escort him in the same way down the staircase4 ,in the ,college of ,cardinals and among the many interesting individualities of the ,vatican1 the most marked figure is that of the ,cardinal ,secretary of ,state1 ,merry del ,val4 ,he occupies the ,borgia apartments1 which are hung with tapestry and ornamented with the most unique and valuable articles de vertu1--wonderful vases1 inlaid cabinets1 old tapestries1 paintings1 statues1 busts1 and ivories4 ,these ,borgia apartments are one of the most interesting features of the ,palazzo ,vaticano1 and may be seen now and then by special permission when the ,cardinal secretary is out1 or when he may be pleased to retire into his more private salons in the apartment while the others are shown4 ,cardinal ,rafael ,merry del ,val is an impressive personality1 whose life seems strangely determined by destiny4 ,his father was an attach of the ,spanish embassy to the ,court of ,st4 ,james when the future ,cardinal was born in #ahfe4 ,in #aijd1 at the early age of thirty-nine1 he was advanced from the soutane violet of the bishop to the mantelletta scarlet of the cardinal1 and after the accession of the present ,pope1 ,pius ,x1 he was appointed to the highest office in the ,vatican1 that of ,secretary of ,state1 the ,pope paying him the high tribute because of his devotion to work1 his capability and absolute self-negation4 ,cardinal ,merry del ,val has had a wonderful training of experience and circumstances4 ,at the early age of twenty-two he was a member of the papal embassy commissioned to the jubilee of ,queen ,victoria in #ahhg4 ,he was also appointed a member of the embassy from the ,vatican to attend the funeral of ,emperor ,william ,i2 and at the jubilee of ,francis ,joseph1 ,emperor of ,austria1 ,cardinal 7then ,bishop7 ,merry del ,val was the sole and accredited representative of the ,holy ,see1 as he was also at the coronation of ,king ,edward4 ,the ,spanish ,cardinal is the special trusted counsellor of the royal family of ,spain4 ,in ,rome1 ,cardinal ,merry del ,val is an impressive figure4 ,he is always attended by his gentiluomo1 who is gorgeously arrayed in knee breeches1 military hat and sword4 ,this gentleman in waiting walks behind him on a promenade1 sits in his carriage and stands near him in all religious ceremonies4 ,his equipage is well known in the ,eternal ,city1--a stately black carriage drawn by two massive black horses with luxurious flowing manes4 ,it is freely prophesied in ,rome that the ,cardinal secretary is destined to yet exchange the mantelletta scarlet for the zucchetta white1 when ,pius ,x shall have gone the way of all his predecessors in the papal chair4 ,he is the ,cardinal especially favored by ,austria and ,spain4 ,although the conflict with ,france was at first ascribed to ,cardinal ,merry del ,val1 he has of late been completely exonerated from blame1 even by the ,french prelates and clergy4 ,cardinal ,merry del ,val represents the most advanced and progressive thought of the day4 ,he is an enthusiastic admirer of ,marconi and the marvels of wireless telegraphy2 he is an advocate of telephonic service1 electric motors1 electric lights1 and of phonographs and typewriters for the ,vatican service4 ,he is a great linguist1 speaking ,english1 ,french1 and ,german as well as ,spanish1 which is his native tongue1 and ,italian1 which has become second nature4 ,he is a good ,greek scholar and a profound ,latin scholar1 and he speaks the ancient ,latin with the fluency and the force of the modern languages4 ,he is1 indeed1 a remarkable twentieth-century personality and one who has apparently a very interesting life yet to come in his future4 ,at the ,villa ,pamphilia ,doria1 built by a former ,prince ,doria1 the largest villa in the ,roman environs and the finest now remaining1 the ,cardinal enjoys his game of golf1 of which he is very fond4 ,the ,doria family rendered the villa magnificent in every respect4 ,besides the spacious avenues1 woods1 fountains1 a lake1 and cascades1 are various edifices1 among which is one in the form of a triumphal arch1 decorated with ancient statues2 the casino of the villa in which are preserved some ancient marbles and several pictures2 the beautiful circular chapel1 adorned with eight columns of marble and other stately ornaments4 ,there is a monument erected by the present ,prince ,doria to the memory of the ,french soldiers who were killed there during the siege of #ahdi4 ,from the terrace of the palace there is a magnificent view of the environs of ,rome1 as far as the sea4 ,in consequence of excavations1 some columbaria1 sepulchres1 inscriptions1 and other relics have been found1 which have attracted much attention from archologists4 ,it is near these grounds that the ,arcadians still hold their al fresco meetings4 ,the society dates back to #afij1 and the first custos 7whose duty was to open and close the meetings7 was ,crescimbeni4 ,the ,arcadians organized themselves to protest against the degeneracy of ,italian poetry that marked the seventeenth century4 ,to keep their meetings a secret from the populace the ,arcadians held their meetings in an open garden on the slope below ,san ,pietro in ,montorio1--a terrace still known as ,bosco ,parrasio degli ,arcadi4 ,one of the enchanting views in ,rome is from the ,piazza ,san ,giovanni4 ,one looks far away past the ,coliseum in its ruined grandeur and the casa where ,lucrezia ,borgia lived1 and in the near distance is the colossal pile of ,san ,giovanni di ,laterano1 its beautiful and impressive faade crowned with the statues of the apostles silhouetted against the western sky4 ,in the piazza formed by the church1 the museums1 and the ,baptistery of ,san ,giovanni and the ,scala ,santa is one of the most remarkable obelisks in ,rome1 ninety-nine feet in height1 formed of red granite and carved with hieroglyphics4 ,this shaft is placed on a pedestal which makes it in all some #aae feet in height4 ,it was placed in #aefh by ,sixtus ,v4 ,the museums of the ,san ,giovanni are the ,museo ,sacro and the ,museo ,profano1--the latter founded by ,pope ,gregory ,,xvi1 and very rich in sculptures and mosaics4 ,the ,museo ,sacro was founded by ,pio ,nono1 and is rich in the antiquities of the ,christian era4 ,within ,san ,giovanni the visitor finds himself in a vast interior divided by columns of verd-antique into three aisles1 each of which is as wide as1 and far longer than1 the interior of an ordinary church4 ,statues fill the niches1 and the chapels and confessionals are all beautifully decorated4 ,the ,corsini ,chapel is the richest and was executed by order of ,clement ,,xii1 in honor of ,st4 ,andrew ,corsini1 who is represented in a rich mosaic painting copied from ,guido4 ,two sculptured figures1 ,innocence and ,penitence1 stand before the altar1 and above is a relief depicting ,st4 ,andrew protecting the ,florentine army at the battle of ,anghiari4 ,the tomb of ,pope ,clement ,,xii 7who himself belonged to the ,corsini family and who was an uncle of ,cardinal ,corsini7 is in a niche between two columns of porphyry1 and there is a bronze statue of the ,pope4 ,on the opposite side is a statue of ,cardinal ,corsini1 and in the crypt below are tombs of the ,corsini family4 ,on the altar--always lighted--is a ,pieta by ,bernini1 of which the face of the ,christ is very beautiful4 ,near the centre of the ,basilica is a rich tabernacle of precious stones1 defined by four columns of verde antico1 and it is said that the heads of ,st4 ,peter and ,st4 ,paul are preserved here4 ,the table upon which ,christ celebrated the ,last ,supper is placed here1 above the altar of the ,holy ,sacrament1 a sacred relic that thrills the visitors4 ,in one chapel is a curious and grotesque group of sculpture1--a skeleton holding up a medallion portrait1 while an angel with outstretched wings hovers over it4 ,san ,giovanni has the reputation of being absolutely the coldest church in all ,rome1 which--it is needless to remark--means a great deal1 for they all in winter have the temperature of the arctic regions4 ,in all these great churches there is never any heat2 no apparatus for heating has ever been introduced1 and the twentieth century finds them just as cold as they were in the centuries of a thousand years ago4 ,this colossal ,basilica is considered the most important church in the world1 as it is the cathedral of the ,pontiff4 ,it was founded in the third century by ,constantine1 destroyed by fire in #acjh1 and rebuilt by ,pope ,clement ,v1 and every succeeding ,pope has added to it4 ,the faade is of travertine1 with four gigantic columns and six pilasters1 and the cornice is decorated with colossal figures of ,jesus and a number of the saints4 ,there are five balconies1 the middle one being always used for papal benedictions4 ,in the portico is the colossal statue of ,constantine the ,great4 ,within the columns are of verde antico2 the ceiling was designed by ,michael ,angelo2 the interior is very rich in sculpture1 and there are some fine paintings and the chapels are most beautiful1 one of them containing a tabernacle comprised wholly of precious stones4 ,above the altar of the ,holy ,sacrament the table upon which ,christ celebrated the ,last ,supper with the disciples is preserved4 ,it is wonderful to look upon this most sacred and significant relic4 ,it is in this church that the tomb of ,leo ,,xiii has been constructed by the eminent ,italian sculptor1 ,tadolini1 opposite the tomb of ,innocent ,,iii4 ,the work was completed in the spring of #aijg1 the design being a life-size portrait statue of the ,pope with two figures1 one on either side1 representing the church and the workman-pilgrim1 forming part of the group4 ,this is one of the most memorable monuments of all ,rome1 and the tomb of the great ,leo ,,xiii will form a new shrine for ,christian pilgrimage4 ,included in the group of structures that form the great ,basilica of ,san ,giovanni is the ,scala ,santa1 which offers a strange picture whenever one approaches it4 ,these twenty-eight marble steps that belonged to ,pilate's house in ,jerusalem are said to have been once trodden by ,jesus and may be ascended only on one's knees4 ,at no hour of the day can one visit the ,scala ,santa without finding the most motley and incongruous throng thus ascending1 pausing on each step for meditation and prayer4 ,these stairs were transported from ,jerusalem to ,rome under the auspices of ,st4 ,helena1 the ,empress1 about #cbf ,a4,d41 and in #aehi they were placed by ,pope ,sixtus ,v in this portico built for them with a chapel at the top of the stairs called the ,sancta ,sanctorum1 formerly the private chapel of the ,popes4 ,in this sanctuary is preserved a wonderful portrait of the ,saviour1 painted on wood1 which is said to have been partly the work of ,st4 ,luke but finished by unseen hands4 ,the legend runs that ,st4 ,luke prepared to undertake the work by three days' fasting and prayer1 and that1 having drawn it in outline1 the painting was done by angelic ministry1 the colors being filled in by invisible hands4 ,in ancient times--the custom being abolished by ,pius ,v in #aeff--this picture was borne through ,rome on the ,feast of the ,assumption and the bearer halted with it in the ,forum1 when the ,kyrie ,eleison would be chanted by hundreds of voices4 ,myth and legend invest every turn and footfall of the ,eternal ,city1 and there are few that are not founded on what the church has always called supernatural manifestations1 but which the new age is learning to recognize as occurrences under natural law4 ,the story of ,luther's ascent of the ,scala ,santa is thus told3-- ,brother ,martin ,luther went to accomplish the ascent of the ,scala ,santa--the ,holy ,staircase--which once1 they say1 formed part of ,pilate's house4 ,he slowly mounted step after step of the hard stone1 worn into hollows by the knees of penitents and pilgrims4 ,patiently he crept halfway up the staircase1 when he suddenly stood erect1 lifted his face heavenward1 and in another moment turned and walked slowly down again4 ,he said that as he was toiling up a voice as if from heaven spoke to him and said1 ',the just shall live by faith4' ,he awoke as if from a nightmare1 restored to himself4 ,he dared not creep up another step2 but rising from his knees he stood upright like a man suddenly loosed from bonds and fetters1 and with the firm step of a free man he descended the staircase and walked from the place4 ,the entire legendary as well as sacred history is almost made up of instances of the interpenetration of the two worlds2 the response of those in the spiritual world to the needs of those in the natural world4 ,pope ,paschal recorded that he fell asleep in his chair at ,st4 ,peter's 7somewhere about #h4bj ,a4,m47 with a prayer on his lips that he might find the burial place of ,st4 ,cecilia1 and in his dream she appeared to him and showed him the spot where her body lay1 in the catacombs of ,calixtus4 ,the next day he went to the spot and found all as had been revealed to him4 ,the miraculous preservation of ,st4 ,agnes is familiar to all students of legendary art4 ,throughout all ,rome1 shrine and niche and sculpture1 picture1 monument1 arch and column1 speak perpetually of some interposition of unseen forces with events and circumstances in this part of life4 ,the ,eternal ,city in its rich and poetic symbolism is one great object lesson of the interblending of the two worlds1 the natural and the spiritual4 ,the first stage regarding all this marvellous panorama was entire and unquestioning acceptance2 the succeeding stage was doubt1 disbelief2 the third1 into which we are now entering1 is that of an enlightened understanding and a growing knowledge and grasp of the laws under which these special interpositions and interventions occur4 ,for that according to thy faith be it unto thee1 is as true now in the twentieth century as it was in the first4 ,the one central truth that is the very foundation of all religious philosophy is the continuity of life and the persistence of intercourse and communion1 spirit to spirit1 across the gulf we call death4 ,the evidences of this truth have been always in the world4 ,the earliest records of the ,bible are replete with them4 ,the gospels of the ,new ,testament record an unbroken succession of occurrences and of testimony to this interpenetration of life in the ,unseen with that in the ,seen4 ,secular history is full of its narrations of instances of clairvoyance1 clairaudience1 and of communications in a variety of ways2 and the sacred and legendary art of ,rome1 largely founded on story and myth and legend1 when seen in the light of latter-day science is judged anew1 and the literal truth of much that has before been considered purely legendary is revealed and realized4 ,one reads new meanings into ,rome when testing it by this consciousness4 ,it is a city of spiritual symbolism4 ,it is a great object lesson extending over all the centuries4 ,making due allowance for the distortion and exaggeration of ages of testimony1 there yet remains a residuum indisputable4 ,the ,past and the ,present both teem with record and incident and experience proving that life is twofold1 even now and here2 that all the motives and acts of the life which we see are variously incited1 modified1 strengthened1 or annulled by those in the realm of the ,unseen4 ,illustration3 ,,entrance ,,to ,,villa ,,pamphilia-,,doria1 ,,rome ,page #aei ,the intelligent recognition of this truth changes the entire conduct of life4 ,it entirely alters the point of view4 ,it extends the horizon line infinitely4 ,instead of conceiving of life as a whole1 as comprised between the cradle and the grave1 it will be regarded in its larger and truer scope as a series of experiences and achievements1 infinite in length and in their possibilities and unbroken by the change we call death4 ,this will impart to humanity a new motor spring in that greater hope which puts man in a working mood1 which makes him believe in the value of that which he undertakes1 which encourages him to press on amid all difficulties and against all obstacles4 ,increasing hope1 all activity is proportionately increased4 ,it was an event of incalculable importance to the progress of humanity when the swift communication by cable was established between ,america and ,europe4 ,it is one of infinitely greater importance to establish the truth and enlarge the possibility of direct communication with the world of higher forces and larger attainment and scope than our own4 ,this communication exists and has always existed1 but it has been regarded as myth and legend and phenomenon rather than as a fact of nature whose laws were to be ascertained and understood4 ,it must be made clear as an absolute scientific demonstration that the change of form by the process we call death does not put an end to intelligent and rational intercourse1 but that1 indeed1 instead of setting up a barrier1 it removes barriers and renders mutual comprehension far clearer and more direct than before4 ,this realization alters the entire perspective of life1 and is the new ,glad ,tidings of great joy4 ,it is something of all this that the ,eternal ,city suggests to one as he makes his pilgrimages to shrine and cloister and chapel and ,basilica4 ,the mighty ,past is eloquent with a thousand voices1 and they blend into a choral harmony of promise and prophecy for the nobler future of humanity4 ,at the foot of the ,scala ,santa1 on either side1 are statues of ,christ and ,judas1 and of ,christ and ,pilate1 very interesting groups by ,jacometti1 and there is also a kneeling statue of ,pio ,nono4 ,the statue of ,judas is considered one of the most notable of the late modern ,italian sculpture4 ,the ,rome of to-day is in strange contrast even to the city that ,page and ,hawthorne knew1 in the comparatively recent past2 and the ,rome of the ancients is traced only in the churches and the ruins4 ,it is a mot that one hears every language spoken in ,rome1 except the ,italian6 ,so largely has the ,seven-hilled ,city become the pleasure ground of foreign residents4 ,the contrast between the ordinary breakfast-table talk in ,rome and in--,boston1 for instance1 or ,washington1 is amusing4 ,in the ,puritan capital it usually includes the topic of weather predictions and the news in the morning paper1 with whatever other of local or personal matters of interest4 ,in ,washington1 where the very actors and the events that make the nation's history are fairly before one's eyes1 the breakfast-table conversation is apt to turn on matters that have not yet got into the papers1--the evening session of the previous night1 perhaps1 when too long prolonged under the vast dome to admit of its having been noted in the morning press4 ,but in ,rome the breakfast-table talk is apt to be of the new excavations just taken from the bed of the ,tiber2 the question as to whether the head of ,st4 ,paul could have touched 7at the tragic scene of his execution7 at three places so far apart as the tri-fontanes2 or a discussion of the marvellous freshness of the mosaics in the interior of the ,palace of the ,csars2 or1 again1 of the last night's balls or dinners1 and matters most frankly mondaine1 and of contemporary life4 ,the ,american ,embassy1 whose location depends on the individual choice of the ,ambassador of the time1 is now in the old ,palazzo del ,drago on the corner of the ,via ,venti ,settembre and the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane4 ,the street floor1 like all the old palaces1 is not used for living purposes4 ,the portiere1 the guards1 the corridors1 and approaches to the staircases monopolize this space4 ,the piano nobile is the residence of the beautiful and lovely ,principessa d',antuni1 the youthful widow of the ,principe who was himself a grandson of ,marie ,christine1 the ,queen of ,spain4 ,the young ,princess who was married to him at the age of seventeen1 ten years ago1 is left with three little children1 of whom the only daughter bears the name of her great-grandmother1 the ,spanish ,queen4 ,perfectly at home in all the romance languages1 an accomplished musician1 a thinker1 a scholar1 a student1 a lovely figure in life1 a beautiful and sympathetic friend is the ,princess d',antuni4 ,she is of a simplicity1 as they say in ,italy1 investing the dignity of her rank with indescribable grace and sweetness4 ,the two long flights of stairs that lead up to the secundo piano in the ,palazzo del ,drago--the floor occupied by the ,american ,embassy--have at least a hundred steps to each staircase1 yet so broad and easy of ascent as hardly to fatigue one4 ,these flights are carpeted in glowing red1 while along the wall are niches in each of which stands an old statue1 making the ascent of the guest seem a classic progress4 ,the ,palazzo del ,drago has an elevator1 but elevator service in ,rome is a thing apart1 something considered quite too good for human nature's daily food1 and the slight power is far too little to permit any number of people to be accommodated1 so on any ceremonial occasion the elevator is closed and the guests walk up the two long flights4 ,the total lack of any mastery of mechanical conditions in ,italy is very curious4 ,the grand ball given at the ,american ,embassy just before ,ash ,wednesday in the winter of #aijg was a very pretty affair4 ,up the rose-red carpeted stairs the guests walked1 the statues looking silently on1 but apparently there was no ,galatea to step down from her niche and join the happy throng4 ,in the antechamber each guest was asked to write his name in the large autograph books kept for that purpose1 and then1 passing on1 was received by the ,ambassador and ,ambassadress in the first of the splendid series of salons thrown open for the occasion4 ,at this time it was ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,henry ,white who represented the ,united ,states1 and won the hearts of all ,rome as well1 and assisted by their charming daughter1 ,miss ,muriel ,white1 they made this ball an affair to leave its lovely pictures in memory4 ,the scenic setting of an old ,roman palace captivates the stranger4 ,it may not impress him as especially comfortable1 but it is certainly picturesque1 and who would not prefer--at least for the one night only of the traditional prima donna announcements--the pictorially picturesque and magnificent to the merely comfortable8 ,the lofty ceilings1 painted by artists who have long since vanished from mortal sight1 make it impossible to attain the temperature that the ,american regards as essential to his terrestrial well-being1 and as the only sources of heat were the open fireplaces the guests hovered around these and their radii of comfortable warmth were limited4 ,in one salon there was one especially beautiful effect of a great jar of white lilacs placed before a vast mirror at sufficient distance to give the mirror reflection an individuality as a thing apart1 and the effect was that of a very garden of paradise4 ,the music was fascinating1 the decorations all in good taste1 and the occasion was most brilliant1--trs charmante indeed4 ,the ,american ambassadress was ablaze with her famous diamonds1 her corsage being literally covered with them1 and her coiffure adorned with a coronet1 but the temperature soon forced the ambassadress to partially eclipse her splendor with the little ermine shoulder cape that is an indispensable article for evening dress in ,rome4 ,the temperature does not admit the possibility of dcollet gowns without some protection1 when these resplendent glittering robes that seem woven of the stars are worn4 ,among the more distinguished guests1 aside from the corps diplomatique and the titled nobility of ,rome and visiting foreigners1 were ,m4 ,carolus ,duran1 the celebrated portrait artist of ,paris1 and among other interesting people were ,miss ,elise ,emmons of ,leamington1 ,england1 a grand-niece of ,charlotte ,cushman4 ,m4 ,carolus ,duran was very magnificent1 his breast covered with jewelled orders and decorations from the various societies1 academies1 and governments that have honored him4 ,he is a short man and has grown quite stout1 but he carries himself with inimitable grace and dignity1 and in his luminous eyes one still surprises that far-away look which ,sargent so wonderfully caught in his portrait of the great ,french artist1 painted in his earlier life4 ,the number of spacious salons with their easy-chairs and sofas enabled all guests who desired to ensconce themselves luxuriously to do so1 and watch the glittering scene4 ,the supper room and the salon for dancing were not more alluring than the salons wherein one could study this brilliant throng of diplomates1 titled nobility1 distinguished artists1 social celebrities1 and those who were1 in various ways1 each persona grata in ,rome4 ,among those at this particular festivity were the ,american novelist1 ,frank ,hamilton ,spearman1 with ,mrs4 ,spearman4 ,in late ,american fiction ,mr4 ,spearman has made for himself a distinctive place as the novelist whose artistic eye has discerned the romance in the new phases of life created by the extensive systems of mountain railroading1 and the great irrigation schemes of the far ,west1 which have not only opened up new territory1 but have called into evidence new combinations of the qualities most potent in human life1--love1 sacrifice1 heroism1 devotion to duty1 and tragedy and comedy as well4 ,in his novels1 ,the ,daughter of a ,magnate and ,whispering ,smith1 in such vivid and delightful short stories as ,the ,ghost at ,point of ,rocks1 which appeared in ,scribner's ,magazine for ,august of #aijg1 ,mr4 ,spearman has dramatized the pathos1 the wit1 the vast and marvellous spirit of enterprise1 the desolation of isolated regions1 the all-pervading potency and one may almost say intimacy of modern life made possible by the ,arabian ,nights' dream of wireless telegraphy1 soaring cars1 long-distance telephoning1 and lightning express train service in cars that climb the mountains beyond the clouds1 or dash through tunnels with ten thousand feet of mountains above them4 ,mr4 ,spearman is the novelist par excellence of this intense vie modernit4 ,on ,washington's ,birthday1 again1 the stately salons of the ,american ,embassy in the old ,palazzo del ,drago were well filled from four to six with an assemblage which expressed its patriotism and devotion to ,washington by appearing in its most faultless raiment and in an apparent appreciation of the refreshment tables1 from which cake and ices1 tea and various other delicacies1 were served4 ,the informal weekly receptions at the ,embassy are always delightful1 and the dinners and ceremonial entertainments are given with that faultless grace which characterizes the ,american ambassadress4 ,the ,american consulate is always a charming centre in ,rome1 and in the present residence of ,consul-,general and ,mrs4 ,de ,castro1 who have domiciled themselves on a lofty floor of a palace in the ,via ,venti ,settembre1 commanding beautiful views that make a picture of every window1 the consulate is one of the favorite social centres for ,americans and other nationalities as well1 who enjoy the charming welcome of ,mrs4 ,de ,castro4 ,professor and ,mrs4 ,jesse ,benedict ,carter1 in their lovely home in the ,via ,gregoriana1 add another to the pleasant ,american centres in the ,eternal ,city1 ,professor ,carter having succeeded ,professor ,norton as the principal of the ,american ,classical ,school4 ,mrs4 ,elihu ,vedder1 assisted by her accomplished daughter1 ,miss ,anita ,vedder1 has a pretty fashion of receiving weekly in ,mr4 ,vedder's studio in the ,via ,flaminia1 and these ,saturday receptions at the ,vedders' are a feature of social life in ,rome which are greatly sought4 ,the distinguished artist reserves these afternoons for leisurely conversation1 and pictures and sketches are enjoyed the more that they may be enjoyed in the presence of their creator4 ,miss ,vedder has called to life again the almost lost art of tapestry1 and her productions of wonderful beauty are considered as among the most desirable in modern decorative art4 ,among these tapestries are ,the ,lover's ,song1 ,salome ,dancing before ,herod1 ,the ,annunciation1 ,the ,legend of the ,unicorn1 ,the ,lovers' ,picnic1 and ,the ,lovers4 ,the tapestries were painted in ,rome and in the ,vedder villa1 ,torre ,quattro ,venti on ,capri1 where the artist and his wife and daughter pass their summers4 ,the established ,english ,church has two chapels in ,rome1 one the ,holy ,trinity1 of which ,rev4 ,dr4 ,baldwin is the rector1 and the other ,english chapel in ,via del ,babuino has for its chaplain ,rev4 ,dr4 ,nutcombe ,oxenham1 whose ministry is one of the most helpful factors in ,rome4 ,dr4 and ,mrs4 ,oxenham occupy a charming apartment in the ,piazza del ,popolo1 the most picturesque piazza in ,rome1 with the terraced ,pincion hillside crowned by the ,villa di ,medici on one side1 and the twin churches on another2 and the beautiful salon of ,mrs4 ,oxenham1 with its wealth of books and classic engravings and gems of pictures1 is one of the homelike interiors in ,rome4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,oxenham receive on ,wednesdays1 and an hour with them and their guests is always a privileged one4 ,the work of this church1 largely through the active co-operation of ,mrs4 ,oxenham1 extends into wide charities which are without discrimination as to sect or race1--the only consideration being the human need to be met in the name of ,him whose care and love are for each and all4 ,among the delightful hostesses of ,rome is the ,american wife of ,cavaliere ,cortesi1 an ,italian man of letters1 and in their apartment1 in one of the notable palaces in the ,corso1 some of the most brilliant musicals and receptions are given1 the ,all',illustrissima ,signora being assisted in the informal serving of tea by the two little fairy daughters1 ,annunziata and ,elizabetta1 whose childish loveliness lingers with the habitus of this pleasant home4 ,in the ,palazzo ,senni1 in the old part of ,rome1 looking out on ,castel ,san ,angelo and the ,ponte d',angelo1 across to the dome of ,st4 ,peter's1 the ,listers had their home2 and though ,mrs4 ,lister1 one of the most distinguished ,english ladies of ,rome1 has gone on into the fairer world beyond1 her daughter1 ,miss ,roma ,lister1 sustains the charming hospitalities for which her mother was famous4 ,her salons on the piano nobile of the palace are rich in souvenirs and rare objects of art4 ,mrs4 ,lister1 who was of a noted ,english house1 was evidently a favorite with ,queen ,victoria and the royal family2 and her marriage gifts included two drawings by the ,queen1 both autographed1 and a crayon portrait of the ,empress ,frederick with autographic inscription to ,mrs4 ,lister4 ,another personal gift was a portrait of ,cardinal ,newman1 with his autograph4 ,a bust of ,lady ,paget of ,florence1 the widow of ,sir ,augustus ,paget1 formerly the ,english ,ambassador to ,italy1 is another of the interesting treasures which include1 indeed1 gifts and offerings from a large number of those eminent in state1 in art1 in literature1 or in the church4 ,the gracious hospitality of ,miss ,lister is dispensed to groups of cosmopolitan guests1 and her dinners and other entertainments are among the most brilliant in ,rome4 ,the ,eternal ,city is not as hospitable to various phases of modern thought as is ,florence1 in which ,theosophy1 ,christian ,science1 and psychic investigation flourish with rapidly increasing ardor2 but ,rome has a ,theosophical ,society1 among whose leaders is the ,baroness ,rosenkrans1 the mother of the distinguished young ,danish novelist1 and the aunt of ,miss ,roma ,lister4 ,the society has its rooms in the very heart of old ,rome1 and holds weekly meetings1 often with an ,english lecturer as the speaker of the hour4 ,a ,theosophical library1 in both ,english and ,italian1 is easily accessible1 and the meetings are conducted in either language as it chances at the time4 ,the accession of ,annie ,besant to the presidency of the ,theosophical ,society1 succeeding ,colonel ,olcott1 whose death occurred early in #aijg1 was most satisfactory to the ,roman members4 ,mrs4 ,besant is one of the most remarkable women of the day4 ,she is in no sense allied with any fads or freaks2 she is essentially a woman of scholarship and poise1 of genuine grasp of significant thought and of brilliant eloquence4 ,theosophy1 rightly interpreted1 is in no sense antagonistic1 but1 rather1 supplemental to ,christianity4 ,it offers the intellectual explanation--the details1 so to speak--of the great spiritual truths of the ,bible4 ,rome seems fairly on its way to become an ,english-speaking city1 so numerous are the ,americans and ,english who throng to ,rome in the winter4 ,there are now at least a dozen large new hotels on the scale of the best modern hotels in ,new ,york and ,paris1 beside the multitude of the older ones which are comfortable and retain all their popularity2 yet this increase in accommodation does not equal the increase in demand4 ,in ,february the tide of travel sets in toward ,rome1 and from that date until after ,easter every nook and niche are filled to overflowing4 ,the demand for apartments in ,rome is greater than the supply1 although the city is being constantly extended and new buildings are rapidly being erected4 ,it would seem as if1 with the present increasingly large number of ,americans and ,english1 it might be an admirable financial enterprise for capitalists to come and build comfortable modern apartment hotels4 ,there seems to be no adequate reason why1 in this age1 people should be compelled to live in these gloomy1 dreary1 cold1 old stone palaces1 without elevator service and with no adequate heating1 lighting1 and running-water facilities4 ,there would seem to be no conceivable reason why these conveniences should not be at hand in ,rome as well as in ,new ,york4 ,as for the climate1 with warm houses to live in1 it would be charmingly comfortable1 for the deadly cold is not in the temperature out of doors1 but only in the interiors4 ,one is warm in the sunshine in the streets1 when he is fairly frozen in the house4 ,mentioning this1 however1 with wonder that some enterprising ,american did not begin such building operations1 a friend who has lived for sixteen years in ,rome replied that the ,italians would never permit it2 that no foreigner is allowed to come in here and initiate business operations4 ,and the ,italians continue building after the old and clumsy fashion of five hundred years ago4 ,italy has a curiously pervasive and general suspicion of any latter-day comfort4 ,the new apartment houses of from four to seven stories are largely without any elevator2 if there is one it usually only ascends about halfway1 and it is so clumsy and slow in its methods1 so poorly supported by power1 that half the time it does not run at all4 ,the streets of ,rome are paved with rough stones2 the sidewalks are very narrow2 the lighting is inadequate4 ,bathrooms are rare and insufficient in number1 and all interior lighting and heating arrangements lack much that is desirable according to ,american ideas of comfort4 ,still the ,eternal ,city is so impressive in and of itself that sunshine or storm1 comfort or the reverse1 can hardly affect one's intensity of joy and wonder and mysterious1 unanalyzable rapture in it4 ,the twentieth-century ,rome is a very different affair from the ,rome on which ,hawthorne entered one dark1 cold1 stormy winter night more than half a century ago4 ,in the best modern hotels one may be as comfortable as he likes1 with all the fascinations of life added besides4 ,no wonder that ,rome is one of the great winter centres1 with some of the most interesting people in the world always to be found under the spell of its enchantment4 ,the ,rome of to-day is a curious mixture of ruins and of modern buildings which are neither modern nor medival in their structure1 but many of which combine the most picturesque features of the latter with the latest beauty of ,french and ,american architectural art4 ,the classic buildings are now largely in unpleasant surroundings2 as1 for instance1 the ,pantheon1 which is surrounded by a fish market1 with unspeakable odors and other repulsive features4 ,but the portico1 with its sixteen ,corinthian columns1 is forever majestic2 the interior1 a vast circular cell surmounted by a dome through which alone it is lighted1 there being no windows in the walls1 is massive and grim1 but the magical illumination1 the eye constantly revealing the sky above1 gives it wonderful beauty4 ,over the outer portals is the inscription of its erection by ,agrippa twenty-seven years before ,christ1 so it has stood for nearly two thousand years4 ,colossal statues of ,augustus and ,agrippa fill niches4 ,in diameter the interior of the ,pantheon is one hundred and thirty-two feet1 and it is the same in height1 which insures the singularly harmonious proportions4 ,the tribune of the ,high-,altar is cut in the thickness of the wall in the form of a semicircle1 and is ornamented1 like the door1 with four pilasters and two columns of violet marble4 ,the six chapels are also cut in the wall and ornamented by two columns and two pilasters4 ,the columns and the pilasters support the beautiful cornice of white marble2 the frieze is of porphyry1 and goes round the whole temple4 ,above this order there is a species of attic with fourteen niches1 and the great cornice from which rises the majestic dome4 ,eight other niches are between the chapels1 and these are also with a pediment supported by two ,corinthian columns4 ,they are now converted into altars4 ,in this temple are buried several artists1 among whom are ,raphael1 ,giovanni da ,udine1 ,baldassare ,peruzzi1 and ,annibale ,carracci4 ,raphael is buried beneath the base of the statue called la ,madonna del ,sasso1 sculptured by ,lorenzetti4 ,this church is1 however1 without paintings or sculptures of much interest4 ,victor ,emmanuel was entombed here on the #bjth of ,january1 #ahgh1 and ,king ,umberto on the #ith of ,august1 #aijj4 ,one of the imposing ceremonies of ,rome is that always celebrated in the ,pantheon on ,march #ad1 in memory of ,king ,umberto ,primo4 ,a grand catafalque1 surmounted by the royal crown1 and surrounded by tall candelabra with wax candles1 is erected in the centre of the temple1 draped with black velvet and gold lace1 and lighted with electric lamps4 ,the mass is for a chorus of voices only4 ,all the civil and military authorities1 the state dignitaries1 and the corps diplomatique to the court of ,italy are present4 ,the troops1 in full dress uniform1 file in the ,piazza of the ,collegio ,romano1 ,via ,pi di ,marmo1 and the ,piazza della ,minerva1 enclosing thus a large square in the ,piazza del ,pantheon4 ,the spectacle is one of the most imposing of all ,roman ceremonies4 ,the ,king1 and ,queen ,elena1 and the ,dowager ,queen ,margherita1 accompanied by their respective civil and military households1 assist at the requiem mass celebrated in the ,pantheon1 and at a commemoration service1 on the same day1 in the ,royal ,chapel of the ,sudario1 where also assemble the ladies and gentlemen of the ,order of the ,annunziata4 ,on the same morning the feast of ,st4 ,gregory1 ,pope and ,doctor of the church1 is celebrated at his church on the ,clian ,hill4 ,he was born of a noble family1 and was ,prefect of ,rome in #egc4 ,pope ,pelagius ,,ii made him regionary deacon of ,rome1 and sent him as legate to ,constantinople in #egh1 where he remained till the death of ,pelagius1 when he was elected ,pope 7#eij74 ,he introduced the ,gregorian chant4 ,his first great act was to send ,st4 ,augustine to convert the ,saxons of ,england to the ,christian faith4 ,an inscription in the ,church of ,san ,gregorio ,magno states that ,st4 ,augustine was educated in the abbey which was erected on the site of the present church by ,gregory1 and that many early archbishops of ,york and ,canterbury were also educated there4 ,it was on the steps of this church that ,augustine and his forty monks took leave of ,gregory1 when setting out for ,england4 ,he died in #fjd1 after a pontificate of thirteen years and six months4 ,he was buried in the portico of the ,vatican ,basilica1 and his body lies under the altar dedicated to him in this same church4 ,his church1 on the ,clian ,hill1 was built on the site of the monastery founded by him4 ,in the chapel of the triclinium1 near the church1 the table on which he served the poor is shown4 ,near the church also is seen his cell1 where his marble chair and one of his arms are exhibited4 ,during the ,lenten season of #aijg one of the privileges of ,rome was to hear the sermons of ,monsignor ,vaughn1 in the ,english ,catholic ,church of ,san ,silvestre4 ,monsignor ,vaughn is the private chaplain of the ,pope4 ,his discourses attracted increasing throngs of both ,catholic and ,protestant hearers4 ,this celebrated prelate is a brother of the late ,english ,cardinal4 ,he is a man of great distinction of presence1 of beautiful voice and fascination of manner4 ,one discourse had for its theme the joys of the life that is to come4 ,the spiritual body1 he said1 has many qualities not pertaining to the physical body4 ,it is immured from all disease and accidents2 it is subtle and can pass through any substance which is 7apparently7 solid to us1 as1 for instance1 when ,jesus appeared in the midst of his disciples1 the doors being shut4 ,it is not a clog on the soul1 continued ,monsignor ,vaughn2 the spiritual body is the vehicle of the soul and can waft its way through the air2 it can walk the air as the physical body walks the earth4 ,it is not--as is the physical body--the prison of the soul1 but the companion of the soul4 ,this is all a very enlightened presentation of spiritual truth1 and it is little wonder that such preaching attracts large congregations4 ,holy ,week in ,rome bears little resemblance now to that of the past4 ,the ,pope is not visible in any of the ceremonials in any of the churches2 and the impressiveness of former ,catholic ceremonials is greatly lessened4 ,indeed1 with the passing of the temporal power of the ,pope1 the picturesqueness of ,rome largely vanished4 ,not1 assuredly1 from any lack of reverence for the colossal cathedral of ,st4 ,peter's is that ,basilica a resort for ,sunday afternoons2 it suggests a social reunion1 where every one goes1 listens as he will to the music of the ,papal choir in the ,chapel of the ,sacrament1 and strolls about the vast interior where the promenade of the multitude does not yet disturb in the least the vesper service in the chapel4 ,here one meets everybody2 the general news of the day is exchanged2 greeting and salutation and pleasant little conversational interludes mark the afternoon1 while the sun sinks behind the splendid pile of the ,palazzo ,vaticano1 and the golden light through the window of the tribune fades into dusk4 ,can one ever lose out of memory the indescribable charm of this leisurely sauntering1 in social enjoyment1 in the wonderful interior of ,st4 ,peter's8 ,in the way of the regulation sight-seeing the visitor to ,rome compasses most of his duty in this respect on his initial sojourn and goes the rounds that no one ever need dream of repeating4 ,once for all the visitor to ,rome goes down into the ,catacombs2 makes his appallingly hard journey over ,castel ,san ,angelo1 into its cells and dungeons1 and to the colossal salon in which is ,hadrian's tomb2 once for a lifetime he climbs ,st4 ,peter's dome2 drives out to old ,st4 ,agnes and descends into the crypt2 visits the ,church of the ,capucines and beholds the ghastly spectacle of the monks' skulls2 drives in the ,appian ,way2 visits the ,palace of the ,csars1 the ,baths of ,caracalla--a mass of ruins2 the ,forum2 the ,temples of ,vesta and ,isis2 the ,coliseum1 and the classic old ,pantheon4 ,these form a kind of skeleton for the regulation sight-seeing of the ,eternal ,city2 things which1 once done1 are checked off with the feeling that the entire duty of the tourist has been fulfilled1 and that1 henceforth in ,rome1 there is laid up for him the crown of enjoyment1 if not rejoicing2 that he may go again and again to study the marvellous treasures of the ,vatican galleries1 the masterpieces of art in the ,raphael stanze in the ,vatican1 the interesting pictures and sculpture in the many rich churches and galleries4 ,the deadly chill of most of these galleries and churches in the winter is beyond words to describe4 ,it is as if the gloom and chill and darkness of a thousand centuries were there concentrated4 ,one of the regulation places for the devout sight-seer1 who feels responsible to his conscience for improving his privileges1 is the ,museo ,nazionale1 or the ,tiberine ,museum1 a large proportion of whose treasures have been excavated in making the new embankments of the ,tiber4 ,it is located on the site of the ,baths of ,diocletian1 the great ruins of which surround it in the most uncanny way4 ,built around a large court1 the salons of the museum are entered from the inner cloisters4 ,in the centre of the court is a fountain1 and around it are antique fragments of statues1 columns1 and statuettes found in many places4 ,the famous ,ludovisi collection of antique statuary is now permanently placed in this museum1--a collection that includes the ,ludovisi ,mars2 ,hercules1 with a cornucopia2 the ,hermes of ,theseus1 the ,discobolus ,hermes2 the ,venus of ,gnidus as copied by ,praxiteles2 the ,dying ,medusa2 the ,ludovisi ,juno1 which ,winckelmann declares to be the finest head of ,juno extant1 a ,greek work of the fourth century2 a ,cupid and ,psyche2 the two ,muses of ,astronomy and of ,epic ,poetry1 ,urania and ,calliope2 an ,antoninus2 the largest sarcophagus known2 a ,tragic ,mask 7colossal7 in rosso antico2 a bust of ,marcus ,aurelius in bronze1 and many other priceless works4 ,the splendor of scenic setting for art in the magnificent salons of the ,casino ,borghese has never been surpassed4 ,they are1 perhaps1 the most impressive of any ,roman interior1 with lofty1 splendidly decorated ceilings and walls1 where recess and niche hold priceless sculptures4 ,the splendor of these salons1 indeed1 quite exceeds description4 ,in the principal one is a group on one wall--a colossal relief--representing ,marcus ,curtius plunging into the gulf in the ,forum4 ,there are busts of the twelve ,csars2 there are busts of all the ,roman ,emperors1 with alabaster draperies1 placed on pedestals of red granite4 ,there are ,bernini's ,apollo and ,daphne2 ,canova's celebrated statue of ,princess ,pauline ,borghese 7the sister of ,napoleon ,i72 ,bernini's ,david and neas and ,anchises2 ,thorwaldsen's ,faun2 ,diana1 ,isis1 ,juno1 and many other celebrated classic statues4 ,all the great paintings which were formerly in the ,palazzo ,borghese--over six hundred in all--are now in this casino4 ,the great work in this collection is ,raphael's ,entombment of ,christ1 painted in his twenty-fourth year4 ,titian's ,divine and ,human ,love2 ,raphael's portrait of ,csar ,borgia2 ,correggio's ,dana2 ,domenichino's ,cuman ,sibyl and ,diana2 ,peruzzi's ,venus ,leaving the ,bath2 ,van ,dyck's ,crucifixion2 ,titian's ,venus and ,cupid2 and ,annunciation1 by ,paul ,veronese2 ,vasari's ,lucrezia ,borgia2 ,botticelli's ,holy ,family and ,angels2 ,van ,dyck's ,entombment2 ,carlo ,dolce's ,mater ,dolorosa1 and ,sassoferrato's ,three ,ages of ,man are among the great masterpieces in this museum4 ,the ,villa ,borghese 7by which is meant the park7 is some three miles in extent1 and was laid out some two hundred years ago by ,cardinal ,borghese4 ,as recently as #aijb it was purchased by the government for three million francs1 and its official name is now ,villa ,comunale ,umberto ,primo4 ,these grounds contain fountains1 antique statues1 tablets1 small temples and many inscriptions1 with statues of sculapius and ,apollo1 and an ,egyptian gateway4 ,they are open all day to every one freely and are one of the great attractions of ,rome4 ,the great palaces of ,rome are of later date than those of ,florence4 ,there are some eighty principal ones1 of which the ,palazzos ,veneziano1 ,farnese1 ,doria1 ,barberini1 ,colonna1 and the ,rospigliosi 7containing ,guido's famous ,aurora7 are the most important4 ,the ,farnesina ,palace contains some of the most interesting pictures in ,rome1 and the traditions of the residence of ,agostino ,chigi1 during the pontificate of ,leo ,x1 are still found in ,rome1--traditions of the lavish magnificence of the entertainments given here to the ,pope and the ,cardinals4 ,the ,monte ,pincio is the famous drive of ,roman society1 and the promenade around the brow of the hill offers one of the most enchanting views of the world4 ,near the ,trinit di ,monti stands the historic ,villa ,medici1 the ,french ,academy of which the great ,carolus ,duran is now the director4 ,the view across the valley in which lies the ,piazza di ,spagna1 the river to ,st4 ,peter's1 from the ,villa ,medici1 is one of the finest in ,rome4 ,the architecture of the garden faade is attributed to ,michael ,angelo4 ,these gardens have a circuit of more than a mile1 laid out in the formal rectangles and densely bordered walks of the ,italian custom4 ,all manner of old fragments of sculpture are scattered through them1--a torso1 a broken bust1 a ruined statue1 an old and partly broken fountain1--and entablatures and reliefs are seen in the walls on every hand4 ,no sound of the city ever penetrates into this dense foliage which secludes the gardens of the famous ,villa ,medici4 ,one of the features of ,roman life is the fashionable drive on ,monte ,pincio in the late afternoons4 ,an hour or two before sunset the terrace of the ,piazza ,trinit di ,monti begins to be thronged with pedestrians1 who lean over the marble balustrade1 gazing at the incomparable pictured panorama where the vast dome of ,st4 ,peter's1 the dense pines of the ,villa ,pamphilia-,doria on the ,janiculum1 and the dark cypress groves on ,monte ,mario loom up against the golden western sky4 ,compared with the extensive parks of modern cities the ,monte ,pincio would prefigure itself as a drive for fairies alone4 ,it comprises a few acres only1 thickly decorated with trees and shrubbery1 with a casino for the orchestra that plays every afternoon1 and a circular carriage drive so limited in extent that the same carriage comes in view every few minutes4 ,the ,eternal ,city has had so many birthdays that one would fancy them to have become negligible2 but it was announced on ,april #ba of #aijg that the date was a special anniversary1 and she took on aspects of festivity4 ,the municipal palaces and museums were hung with tapestries1 flags were flying from the ,capitol1 the municipal guards were all in full dress uniform and the municipal orchestra played in the ,piazza ,colonna4 ,the historic bell began ringing at eight in the morning in peals that were well calculated to call the ,csars from their tombs and which might1 indeed1 have been mistaken for the final trumpet calls of ,gabriel4 ,but the ,romans take their pleasures rather sadly and sternly1--not like the light-hearted ,florentines in song and laughter1 or with the joyous abandon of the ,neapolitans1--so there was no special manifestation on the part of the populace1 and the day1 cold1 gloomy1 and cheerless1 did not inspire gayety4 ,when the ,republic of ,rome was established 7on ,feb4 #i1 #ahdi7 a provisional government was appointed4 ,in ,march of that year ,mazzini proposed that the assembly should appoint a ,committee of ,war1 and it was decided to send troops to ,piedmont4 ,later a triumvirate1 consisting of ,mazzini1 ,saffi1 and ,armellini1 was formed1 but disaster was near4 ,in ,april the ,french troops landed at ,civit ,vecchia1 and the ,italians prepared to defend their country from the control of ,louis ,napoleon4 ,mazzini is said to have been the life and the soul of this defence4 ,but the ,republic was doomed1 and when it had fallen the ,pope returned1 only under the protection of the ,french4 ,but the ,french ,empire1 too1 was doomed to fall2 and when ,garibaldi transferred his successes to ,victor ,emmanuel1 the monarchy was consolidated by the union of ,rome with ,italy1 and the present ,via ,venti ,settembre in ,rome--the street named to commemorate that #bjth of ,september1 #ahgj1 on which the ,italian troops entered the city and the ,papal reign ended--perpetuates the story of those eventful days4 ,victor ,emmanuel1 ,cavour1 and ,garibaldi have been designated1 along with ,mazzini1 as the founders of the modern ,italy1 said ,dr4 ,william ,clarke1 but a broad line divides ,mazzini from the others4 ,dr4 ,clarke sees between ,cavour and ,mazzini the everlasting conflict between the idealist and the man of the world4 ,the former1 he continues1 stands by the intellect and the conscience2 the latter by the limitations of actual fact and the practical difficulties of the case1 and ,dr4 ,clarke notes further3-- ,it was pre-eminently ,mazzini who gave to ,italy the breath of a new life1 who taught her people constancy in devotion to an ideal good4 ,prophets are rarely successful in their own day1 and so it has been with the prophet of modern ,italy4 ,the making of ,italy has not proceeded in the way he hoped it would2 for the ,italians1 who are an eminently subtle and diplomatic people1 have apparently thought it best to bend to the hard facts by which they have been surrounded4 ,but if1 as ,emerson teaches1 facts are fluid to thought1 we may believe that the ideas of ,mazzini will yet prevail in the nation of his birth1 and that he may yet be regarded as the spiritual father of the future ,italian commonwealth4 ,for of him1 if of any modern man1 we may say that he ',saw distant gates of ,eden gleam1 ,and did not dream it was a dream4' ,illustration3 ,,statue ,,of ,,christ1 ,,ancient ,,church ,,of ,,san ,,martina1 ,,rome ,from the ,artist's ,original ,cast ,albert ,bertel ,thorwaldsen ,page #aic ,between the period of the establishment of the ,roman ,republic in #ahdi and the consummation of ,united ,italy in #ahgj the years were rich to the artist1 whatever they may have been to philosopher and patriot4 ,the way for the painter and the sculptor seems to have been a flowery and a pictorial one1--a very via buona fortuna1 through a golden1 artistic atmosphere4 ,the perpetual excursions may lead the serious spectator to wonder where working hours come in1 but1 at all events1 those days are rich in color4 ,friends grouped together by the unerring law of elective affinities loitered in galleries and churches4 ,san ,martina1 near the ,mamertine prisons1 was a point of interest because of ,thorwaldsen's bequest to it of the original cast of his beautiful statue of ,christ which is in ,copenhagen4 ,this is1 perhaps1 the finest work ever conceived by the ,danish sculptor1 and is one that no visitor of to-day can behold unmoved4 ,both ,canova and ,bernini are also represented in this church1--the former by a statue of ,religion and the latter by a bust of ,pietro da ,cortona4 ,beneath the present ,church of ,san ,martina is the ancient one containing the shrine of the martyr1 under a superb bronze altar4 ,of this church1 ,mrs4 ,jameson says in her ,sacred and ,legendary ,art3-- ,at the foot of the ,capitoline ,hill1 on the left hand as we descend from the ,ara ,coeli into the ,forum1 there stood in very ancient times a small chapel1 dedicated to ,st4 ,martina1 a ,roman virgin4 ,the veneration paid to her was of very early date1 and the ,roman people were accustomed to assemble there on the first day of the year4 ,this observance was1 however1 confined to the people1 and was not very general till #afcd1 an era which connects her in rather an interesting manner with the history of art4 ,in this year1 as they were about to repair her chapel1 they discovered1 walled into the foundations1 a sarcophagus of terra cotta1 in which was the body of a young female1 whose severed head reposed in a separate casket4 ,these remains were very naturally supposed to be those of the saint who had been so long venerated on that spot4 ,the discovery was hailed with the utmost exultation1 not by the people only1 but by those who led the minds and consciences of the people4 ,the ,pope himself1 ,urban ,,viii1 composed hymns in her praise2 and ,cardinal ,francesco ,barberini undertook to rebuild her church4 ,the painter1 ,pietro da ,cortona1 entered into this feeling and at his own expense built the chapel and painted for its altar piece the picture representing the saint in triumph1 while the temple in which she has gone to sacrifice falls in ruins from a raging tempest4 ,in any stray ramble in ,rome the sojourner might chance1 at any moment1 upon obelisk1 a pedestal or inscription linked with the great names of the historic past4 ,hawthorne has recorded how1 by mere chance1 he turned from the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane into the ,via ,quirinale and was thus lured on to an obelisk and a fountain on the pedestal of which on one side was the inscription1 ,opus ,phidias1 and on the other1 ,opus ,praxiteles1 and he exclaims3-- ,what a city is this1 when one may stumble1 by mere chance--at a street corner as it were--on the works of two such sculptors6 ,i do not know the authority1 he continues1 on which these statues 7,castor and ,pollux ,i presume7 are attributed to ,phidias and ,praxiteles2 but they impressed me as noble and godlike1 and ,i feel inclined to take them for what they purport to be4 ,while the ,papal ceremonies are neither so frequent nor so magnificent as in former days1 still any hotel guest in ,rome is liable1 any morning1 on coming down to the salle--manger for coffee1 to find every woman 7who is taking her ,rome seriously7 arrayed in a black robe with a black lace veil on her head4 ,one would fancy they were all a procession of nuns1 about to retire from the world into the strict seclusion of the cloister4 ,but it is nothing so momentous4 ,it is only that every lady1 with the devotion to spectacles which every visitor in ,rome feels1 as a matter of course1 has secured the pink ticket entitling her to admission to the ,vatican ,palace to see the passage of the ,pope1 as he makes his way1 attended by the ,cardinals of the ,sacred ,college1 to the ,sistine ,chapel where his ,holiness creates new ,cardinals4 ,although rumored that the spectacle will be a gorgeous one1 that the ,pope will be carried aloft preceded by the silver trumpeters and attended by the ,cardinals and the ambassadors and other dignitaries in the full dress of their ceremonial costumes and their orders1 the reality is less impressive4 ,some feminine enthusiasts fare forth at the heroic hour of eight1 although the procession is not announced to pass until a quarter after ten 7which in ,italy should be translated as a quarter after eleven1 at the earliest1 if not after twelve1 which would be the more probable71 in order to secure good standing room4 ,for everybody is to stand--of course1 comfort being a thing conspicuous only by its absence in ,italy6 ,those of us too well aware by the experiences of previous visits to ,italy that no ,italian function was ever on time1 from the starting of a railway train to the crowning of a king1 only betake ourselves to the glories of the ,palazzo ,vaticano at the hour named1 and we have then--as one's prophetic soul or his commonplace memory warned him--to wait more than an hour wedged into a dense crowd of all nationalities1 none of whom seem at this particular juncture1 at least1 to be at all overburdened with good manners4 ,and what went they out for to seek8 ,instead of an impressive spectacle--a thing to remember for a lifetime--one merely sees ,pius ,x walking1 surrounded by his ,cardinals in a group1--not a procession1--he alone in the centre with his mitre on his head1--the whole scene hardly lasting over a minute1 and as his ,holiness is not as tall as most of his ,cardinals1 he is almost hidden from view4 ,it had been rumored that the ,pope was to be borne aloft in the ,papal chair1 preceded by the traditional white fan and the silver trumpets2 but the present ,pope is temperamentally inclined to minimize all the ceremonials investing his sacred office4 ,yet there is always a thrill in entering the ,vatican4 ,to ascend that splendid ,scala ,regia designed by ,bernini1 with one of the most ingeniously treated perspective effects to be found1 it may be1 in the entire world2 to cross this ,scala with its interesting frescoes by ,salviati and others2 to see at near range the picturesque ,swiss ,guard1--surely any pretext to enjoy such a morning is easily accepted of whatever occurrence one may grasp in order to obtain the hour4 ,one curious feature of the past is to-day equally in evidence in ,rome4 ,strolling at any time into the ,church of ,san ,agostino one beholds a curious spectacle4 ,it is in this church that is placed the beautiful bronze statue of the ,virgin and ,child by ,sansovino4 ,it is approached by a platform on which is placed a stool that enables one to mount and thus reach the foot of the statue1 which is kissed and the wish of the devotee is offered4 ,this ,madonna is believed to have the power to grant each wish and prayer2 to heal the sick2 restore the blind1 the deaf1 and the lame2 to grant immunity from loss or illness2 to grant success and prosperity4 ,the poor ,madonna must have her hands full with these avalanches of petitions1 but she sits calmly in state and1 if the striking testimony of votive offerings can be credited1 she is most amiable in granting the prayers of her devotees4 ,for she is hung with priceless jewels2 necklaces1 brooches1 bracelets1 diamond and ruby and sapphire rings on her fingers1 she is a blaze of splendor4 ,around this statue there is a perpetual crowd1 whatever hour of day one chances to wander in1 and from prince to beggar the bronze foot is kissed1 as each waits his turn to mount the stool and prefer his secret wish4 ,the walls of the church are covered with the votive offerings to the ,madonna for her aid1--rich jewels1 orders1 tablets1--offerings of all kinds4 ,in this church is entombed the body of ,santa ,monica1 the mother of ,st4 ,augustine1 placed in an urn of verd-antique1 in a special chapel beautifully decorated4 ,after preferring one's secret wish to the ,virgin one must wander on to the ,fontane de ,trevi and throw his penny into the water to insure his return to ,rome1 and then he may rest1 mens conscia recti6 ,although ,holy ,week in ,rome has less ceremonial observance in these latter days than those of the impressive scenes so vividly portrayed by ,mme4 de ,stal in ,corinne1 it still attracts a multitude of visitors and offers much to touch and thrill the life of the spirit1 quite irrespective as to whether the visitor be of the ,catholic or ,protestant faith4 ,in the great essentials of ,christianity1 all followers of ,christ unite4 ,the ,pope does not now take part in public services on ,easter1 and that scene of the ,pontifical blessing from the balcony of ,st4 ,peter's given to the multitude below who throng the piazza remains only in memory and in record4 ,but the stately and solemn services of ,good ,friday in the vast and grand interior of ,st4 ,peter's are an experience to linger forever in memory4 ,the three hours' service--the chanting of the ,miserere--was a scene to impress the imagination4 ,this service is held in the late afternoon of ,good ,friday1 in the tribune of ,st4 ,peter's1 the extreme end of the church where the vast window of yellow glass gives a perpetually golden light4 ,the chair believed to have been that of ,st4 ,peter's is here placed1 enclosed in ivory and supported by statues of four ,fathers of the church1 ,st4 ,augustine1 ,st4 ,ambrose1 ,st4 ,chrysostom1 and ,st4 ,athanasius1 from a design of ,bernini4 ,in the tribune is the tomb of ,urban ,,viii 7who was ,matteo ,barberini71 of which the redundant decoration tells the story that it is also ,bernini's work4 ,opposite this tomb is that of ,paul ,,iii1 by della ,porta1 under the supervision of ,michael ,angelo1 it is said1 and the beauty and dignity of the bronze figure of the aged ,pope1 in the act of giving the benediction1 quite confirm this tradition4 ,on a tablet in the wall of the tribune are engraved the names of all the bishops and prelates who1 in #ahed1 accepted the belief of the ,immaculate ,conception1--this tablet being placed by the order of ,pio ,nono4 ,in this tribune on the late afternoon of the ,good ,friday of #aijg the seats were filled with worshippers to listen to the three hours' chant of the ,miserere4 ,princes and peasants sat side by side1 and an immense throng who could not find seats stood1 often wandering away in the dim distances of the cathedral and ever and again returning4 ,the high altar1 where ,canova's beautiful figure of the kneeling ,pope always enchains the visitor1 was1 as usual1 surrounded4 ,the lights burned--these perpetual lamps--and the moving throng went and came4 ,the scene grew mystic1 dream-like1 as the solemn music floated on the air4 ,the ,chapel of the ,holy ,sacrament1 on the left of the cathedral1 was made into the sepulchre that day1 and anything more beautiful than the myriad altar lights and the flowers could not be imagined4 ,at the altar black-robed nuns were kneeling1 and all over the chapel1 kneeling on the floor1 were people of all grades and ranks of life1 from the duchess and princess to the beggar woman with a ragged shawl on her shoulders and her baby in her arms4 ,st4 ,peter's was nearly filled all that day with people1 not crowded1 but apparently thronged in almost every part4 ,the altar in the ,chapel of the ,holy ,sacrament was one mass of deep red roses4 ,the chapel was completely darkened1 but the blaze of myriads of tall candles illuminated the roses and the black-robed nuns and the black-robed devotees4 ,it was a scene never to be forgotten4 ,even in the latter-day ,rome1 historic names are not wanting4 ,one of these1 the ,princess ,christina ,bonaparte1 ne ,ruspoli1 died in #aijg in her ,roman villa in ,via ,venti ,settembre4 ,she was the widow of ,prince ,napoleon ,charles ,bonaparte and a cousin of the ,empress ,eugnie4 ,with her husband in ,paris until #ahgj1 she fled 7whilst her husband was fighting at ,metz7 as soon as the ,commune was proclaimed4 ,the princess was considered a beautiful woman and her portrait had been painted by ,ernest ,hbert1 but it was lost when the ,palace of the ,tuileries was destroyed in #ahgj4 ,with this princess dies the name of the ,bonaparte family4 ,her daughters1 ,donna ,maria ,gotti-,bonaparte and ,princess ,maria della ,moskowa1 were often with her in ,rome4 ,the ,palazzo ,bonaparte is very near ,porta ,pia4 ,although called a palace1 it is simply a plain house of some five stories1 with narrow halls and stone staircases1 no elevator1 no electric lights4 ,the princess occupied the first floor1 while the apartments above were let to various families4 ,with the exception of the royal palaces there are few in which suites are not obtainable for residence by any one who desires them4 ,illustration3 ,,castel ,,san ,,angelo ,,and ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,rome ,page #bjd ,it was at a pleasant djener one spring day in ,rome that the project was launched1 that we should go motoring that afternoon to ,frascati1 ,albano1 ,castel ,gandolfo1 ,lago di ,nemi1 and all that wonderful region4 ,we were lunching with a friend who had a charming apartment in one of the sumptuous old palaces of ,rome1 where1 in a niche on the marble staircase1 the statue of ,csar ,augustus stood1--a copy of the famous statue in the ,capitoline1--where lofty1 decorated ceilings1 old paintings and sculptures adorned the rooms1 and where from the windows we looked out on the tragedy-haunted ,castel ,san ,angelo1 with the dome of ,san ,pietro in the background4 ,our friend who invited us to fly in his motor had brought his touring car over from ,america4 ,the one note of new luxury now is for travellers to journey with their touring cars4 ,in a year or two more it will be airships or soaring machines4 ,on this wonderful ,may afternoon1 all azure and gold1 we started off in the great1 luxurious touring car which was arranged even to carry two trunks1 with a safe in it for the deposit of valuables1 a hamper for refreshments1 and1 indeed1 almost every conceivable convenience4 ,on we flew through ,rome1 past the great ,basilica of ,san ,maria ,maggiore2 past the wonderful pile of ,san ,giovanni ,laterano1 with the colossal statues of the apostles surmounting the faade2 through the ,porta ,san ,giovanni into the narrow1 walled lane leading out on the ,campagna2 on1 on1 to the ,alban hills4 ,we flew past olive orchards and vineyards1 and the vast green pasture lands of the ,campagna whose vivid green was ablaze with scarlet poppies4 ,far away to the west there was a white shining line--the line of the sea4 ,at ,frascati we stopped at the ,villa ,torlonia1 the country place of the ducal family1 whose grand ,roman palazzo is in the ,bocca di ,leone in the old part of ,rome4 ,the ,torlonia have an only daughter1 ,donna ,teresa1 whose dbutante ball a year ago is said to have been the most magnificent entertainment in ,rome for fifty years4 ,a writer1 in a recent article on the nobility of ,rome1 said of this family3-- ,the ,torlonia figure repeatedly in the novels of ,thackeray1 who was never tired of portraying them4 ,they have been most useful citizens1 and since the days of the old army contractor1 who founded the house1 have augmented the family wealth by judicious investments1 especially in connection with the draining and reclaiming of the marsh lands that abound in the former ,papal ,states4 ,they have contracted matrimonial alliances with the ,colonna1 with the ,borghese1 the ,belmonte1 the ,doria1 and the ,sforza4 ,the ,villa ,torlonia at ,frascati is a very large estate with extensive gardens1 terraces1 and a cascade of three falls on the hillside1 which is turned on 7the water7 at pleasure4 ,the house1 however1 is a shabby-looking affair1 a two or three story1 rambling1 yellow structure1 which1 at ,newport1 would not be considered too good for the gardener4 ,after the usual fashion of the ,italians who seldom travel1 the ,torlonia1 wealthy as they are1 simply remove from their palace in ,rome to their villa at ,frascati instead of travelling to ,switzerland1 ,germany1 or elsewhere in the summer4 ,the ,duke and ,duchess of ,cumberland were the guests of the ,torlonia that day1 the entire party enjoying themselves al fresco1 and the beautiful cascade pouring down within the near distance4 ,these outlying towns1 ,frascati1 ,albano1 ,castel ,gandolfo1 and ,lago di ,nemi1 the picturesque group in the ,alban ,mountains1 are some sixteen to eighteen miles from ,rome4 ,these ,alban hills rise like an island from the vast plain of the ,campagna1 the highest point being some three thousand feet above sea level4 ,they are covered with villages and castles and villas1 and have in all a population of some fifty thousand4 ,the region is volcanic1 and the beautiful ,lago di ,nemi and ,lago di ,albano were the craters of extinct volcanoes4 ,all this region was the haunt of ,cicero1 ,virgil1 and ,livy4 ,at ,tusculum1 near ,frascati1 are the remains of ,cicero's villa1 and also of an ancient theatre hewn out of solid rock4 ,the view to the west toward ,rome is most beautiful4 ,the dome of ,st4 ,peter's crowns the ,eternal ,city2 and the ,campagna--a sea of green--is as infinite in sight as is the ,mediterranean4 ,there are splendid villas and estates in these ,alban hills that belong to the ,roman nobility1 and here the ,pope has his summer palace4 ,the ,alban ,mount is also full of historical and legendary interest1 says a writer on the country around ,rome4 ,the ,latin tribe1 one of the constituent elements of the ,roman people1 had here its seat4 ,upon the highest peak of the range was the temple of ,jupiter ,latiaris1 where all the tribes of ,latin blood1 the ,romans included1 met every year to worship2 and where the victorious generals of the ,republic repaired to offer praises and acknowledgments4 ,in these mountain glens undoubtedly most of that ballad literature of ,rome1 the loss of which ,macaulay so eloquently laments and so successfully restores1 had its origin4 ,nor need the scholar be reminded that this is the scene of the most original and vigorous portions of the neid of ,virgil2 nor how the genius of the poet1 which rather languidly recounts the traditions borrowed from ,greece1 wakes to new life1 when he feels his feet upon his own soil and deals with ,latin names and ,latin legends4 ,the ,villa ,aldobrandini at ,frascati is celebrated for its fantastic waterworks in elaborate fountains and cascades4 ,in the gardens a statue of ,pan with a pipe of reeds and one of a satyr with a trumpet are made to play 7both the pipe and the trumpet7 by water4 ,the hydraulic engineer must have found in ,frascati his earthly paradise1 for he commanded the water to leap into foam and spray in the air1 to rush down marble terraces1 and to form itself into obelisks of liquid silver4 ,at ,grotto ,ferrata is a vast monastery of monks of the ,order of ,basilio 7,greek71 a monastery so colossal as to be mistaken for a fortress4 ,the chapel has frescoes by ,domenichino4 ,at ,castel ,gandolfo is the summer ,papal palace1 that has not been occupied by a ,pope since the overthrowing of the temporal power in #ahgj4 ,it has a beautiful and commanding view toward ,rome4 ,it was built by ,urban ,,viii4 ,all the magic of ,italy is in this picturesque excursion4 ,in the vast grounds of the ,villa ,barberini are the ruins of the ancient palace and gardens of ,domitian4 ,on one hillside is a broken wall2 a long avenue of ilex trees reveals here and there fragments of mosaic pavement4 ,crumbling niches hold fragments of statues4 ,the hill itself is still pierced with the long tunnels driven through it by ,domitian that he might pass unseen1--presumably safe from his enemies1--from the palace to the gardens4 ,from the parapet1 ,rome is seen across the shining ,campagna and the dome of ,michael ,angelo gleams against the blue ,italian sky4 ,the wreck is beautiful1 writes ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward1 in ,eleanor1 of this romantic spot2 for it is masked in the gloom of the overhanging trees2 or hidden behind dropping veils of ivy2 or lit up by straggling patches of broom and cytisus that thrust themselves through the gaps in the ,roman brickwork and shine golden in the dark4 ,at the foot of the wall1 along its whole length1 runs a low marble conduit that held the sweetest1 liveliest water4 ,lilies of the valley grow beside it1 breathing scent into the shadowed air2 while on the outer or garden side of the path the grass is purple with long-stalked violets1 or pink with the sharp heads of the cyclamen4 ,and a little farther1 from the same grass1 there shoots up1 in happy neglect1 tall camellia trees1 ragged and laden1 strewing the ground red and white beneath them4 ,and above the camellias again the famous stone-pines of the villa climb into the high air1 overlooking the plain and the sea1 peering at ,rome and ,soracte4 ,one could wander all day in the strange ruins of the old ,barberini grounds1 and in the vast spaces of the gardens and through the ,villa ,doria4 ,the beauty of the avenue of ilex trees through which we flew from ,castel ,gandolfo to ,lago di ,nemi surpasses description4 ,this lake1 some four miles in circumference1 lies in a crater hollow1 with precipitous hills surrounding it1 the water so clear that the ancients called it the ,mirror of ,diana4 ,in it was constructed an artificial island in the design of a ,roman state barge4 ,over the long viaduct at ,ariccia we flew2 everywhere in the little town people1 donkeys--an almost indistinguishable mass--filled the narrow streets2 and thus on to ,genzano and the ,lago di ,nemi1 with its fabled fleet at the bottom4 ,the ,chigi woods1 that fill the deep ravine under the great viaduct at ,ariccia1 were in the most brilliant emerald green4 ,past these forests lay the vast stretch of the ,pontine ,marshes2 and turning toward ,rome again1 the splendor of the sunset flamed in the sky4 ,one could but recall ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward's vivid picture of a storm seen over this part of the ,campagna3-- ,the sunset was rushing to its height through every possible phase of violence and splendor4 ,from the ,mediterranean1 storm clouds were rising fast to the assault and conquest of the upper sky1 which still above the hills shone blue and tranquil4 ,but the northwest wind and the sea were leagued against it4 ,they sent out threatening fingers and long spinning veils of cloud across it--skirmishers that foretold the black and serried lines1 the torn and monstrous masses behind4 ,below these wild tempest shapes again--in long spaces resting on the sea--the heaven was at peace1 shining in delicate greens and yellows1 infinitely translucent and serene1 above the dazzling lines of water4 ,over ,rome itself there was a strange massing and curving of the clouds4 ,between their blackness and the deep purple of the ,campagna rose the city--pale phantom--upholding one great dome1 and one only1 to view of night and the world4 ,round and above and behind1 beneath the long flat arch of the storm1 glowed a furnace of scarlet light4 ,the buildings of the city were faint specks within its fierce intensity1 dimly visible through a sea of fire4 ,st4 ,peter's alone1 without visible foundation or support1 had consistence1 form1 identity2 and between the city and the hills1 waves of blue and purple shade1 forerunners of the night1 stole over the ,campagna towards the higher ground4 ,but the hills themselves were still shining1 still clad in rose and amethyst1 caught in gentler repetition from the wildness of the west4 ,pale rose even the olive gardens2 rose the rich brown fallows1 the emerging farms2 while drawn across the ,campagna from north to south1 as though some mighty brush had just laid it there for sheer lust of color1 sheer joy in the mating it with the rose1--one long strip of sharpest1 purest green4 ,the ,villa ,falconieri1 in ,frascati1 which was built by ,cardinal ,ruffini1 with the old ilex tree preserved in the portals1 has recently been purchased by the ,emperor of ,germany1 who proposes to transform it into an ,academy for the accommodation of ,german students in ,rome4 ,these national academies draw their corresponding numbers of students from the nations thus represented1 and contribute to the cosmopolitan aspects of ,rome4 ,the ,american ,academy in ,rome is now being transferred from the ,ludovisi quarter to a large and convenient building outside ,porta ,pia4 ,perhaps the eminently social quality of ,roman life may be indirectly due to the lack of library privileges which is a conspicuous defect in ,rome4 ,the ,biblioteca ,vittorio ,emanuele1 under the courteous administration of ,commendatore ,conte ,guili1 has1 it is true1 a collection of over half a million volumes and thousands of very rare and valuable manuscripts4 ,it has a large public reading room1 and books are loaned on the signature of any embassy or consulate2 yet this library1 while offering peculiar advantages to theological and other special students and readers1 does not afford any extended privileges to the general reader of modern ,english and ,american publications4 ,it is located in a grim and forbidding old stone palace1 approached by an obscure lane from the ,corso1 where1 as there is no sidewalk1 the pedestrian shares the narrow1 dark1 cold1 stone-paved little street with carts1 donkeys1 peasants1 and beggars4 ,the great monument to ,king ,victor ,emmanuel1 of mingled architecture and sculpture1 a colossal structure of white marble with arches and pillars forming beautiful colonnades1 the capital of each column heavily carved1 and the sculpture1 which is being done by a number of artists1 will be of the most artistic and beautiful order4 ,this memorial will occupy an entire block1 and it is located very near the ,capitol4 ,all the old buildings in the vicinity will be torn down to give a fine vista for this transcendently noble and sumptuous memorial4 ,the directors of this work aim to have it completed and ready to be unveiled in #aiaa1 the jubilee year of ,italy's resurrection as a united country4 ,encircled by the old ,aurelian wall and near the great pyramid that marks the tomb of ,caius ,cestius1 who died #ab ,b4,c41 lies the ,protestant cemetery of ,rome1 full of bloom and fragrance and beauty1 under the dark1 solemn cypress trees that stand like ever-watchful sentinels4 ,when ,keats was buried here 7in #ahbj71 ,shelley wrote of the romantic and lovely cemetery 444 under the pyramid of ,caius ,cestius1 and the mossy walls and towers now mouldering and desolate which formed the circuit of ancient ,rome4 ,the cemetery is an open space among the ruins1 covered even in winter with violets and daisies4 ,it might make one in love with death1 he added1 to think of being buried in so sweet a place4 ,illustration3 ,,porta ,,san ,,paola1 ,,pyramid ,,of ,,caius ,,cestius1 ,,rome ,page #baf ,in the old cemetery 7immediately adjoining the pyramid and separated from the new one by a wall7 is the grave of ,keats 7who died in #ahba7 with its unique inscription1 ,here lies one whose name was writ in water4 ,beside it is that of his friend1 ,joseph ,severn1 who died in #ahbi1 and near these the grave of ,john ,bell1 the famous writer on surgery and anatomy4 ,in the new or more modern cemetery the visitor lingers by the graves of ,shelley and his friend1 ,trelawney2 ,august ,goethe 7the son of the poet72 of ,william and ,mary ,howitt1 who died in #ahgi and #ahhh4 ,not merely1 however1 do the names of ,keats and ,shelley allure the visitor to poetic meditations2 but here lie the earthly forms of many a poet1 painter1 and sculptor of our own country1 with their wives and children1 who have sought in the ,eternal ,city the atmosphere for art and who1 enamoured by the loveliness of ,rome1 continued there for all their remaining years4 ,these graves1 these sculptured memorials1 are eloquent with the joys1 the sorrows1 the achievements and the failures1 the success and the defeat1 of the artistic life in a foreign land4 ,many of these memorial sculptures are the work of the husband or the father1 into which is inseparably joined the personal tenderness to the artist's skill4 ,especially noticeable are the graves of the wives of three ,american sculptors1--,william ,wetmore ,story1 ,richard ,s4 ,greenough1 and ,franklin ,simmons4 ,each of these is marked by a memorial sculpture created by the husband1 and the three different conceptions of these sculptors are interesting to contrast4 ,that of ,mr4 ,story is of an angel with outspread wings1 kneeling1 her head bowed in the utter despair and desolation of hopeless sorrow4 ,the figure has the greatest delicacy of beauty and refinement and tenderness2 but it is the grief that has no support of faith1 the grief that has no vision of divine consolation4 ,on the memorial monument is simply the name1 ,emelyn ,story1 born in ,boston1 #ahbj1 died in ,rome in #ahih1 and the note that it is the last work of ,w4 ,w4 ,story1 in memory of his beloved wife4 ,here1 also1 is ,mr4 ,story buried1 his name and dates of birth and death 7#ahai-aija7 alone being inscribed4 ,at the tomb of ,sarah ,b4 ,greenough1 the wife of ,richard ,s4 ,greenough1 the monument is designed to represent ,psyche escaping from the bondage of mortality4 ,this ,psyche is emerging from her garments and she holds in her hand a lamp4 ,on this is the inscription3 ,her loss was that as of a keystone to an arch4 ,mrs4 ,greenough was a very accomplished musician1 and she had the unique honor of having been made a member of the ,arcadians4 ,the memorial sculpture over the grave of ,mrs4 ,franklin ,simmons is1 as elsewhere noted1 the work of her husband1 a figure called ,the ,angel of the ,resurrection4 ,the angel is represented as a male figure 7,gabriel7 holding in the left hand a golden trumpet while the right is outstretched4 ,his wings are spread1 his face partly turned to the right4 ,the form is partially draped and in every detail is instinct with a complete harmony2 every fold of the drapery1 every curve of the body1 and the lofty and triumphant expression of the face in its ineffable glory of achievement proclaim the triumph of immortality4 ,it stands on a pedestal that gives it1 from the base of the pedestal to the tip of the outstretched wings1 a height of some twenty-one feet4 ,this monument1 seen against a background of dark cypress trees1 speaks the word of positive and complete faith in the divine promise of eternal life4 ,then life is--to wake1 not sleep1 ,rise and not rest1 but press ,from earth's level where blindly creep ,things perfected1 more or less1 ,in the heaven's height--far and steep4 ,the visitor lingers over the grave of that interesting painter1 ,j4 ,rollin ,tilton1 whose landscapes from ,egypt and ,italian scenes were so vivid and picturesque4 ,richard ,henry ,dana1 the elder1 born in ,boston in #ahae1 came to ,rome to die in #ahhb4 ,very near the tomb of ,william ,wetmore and ,emelyn ,story is that of ,constance ,fenimore ,woolson4 ,over the graves of ,william and ,mary ,howitt is the inscription3 ,let not your heart be troubled2 believe in ,god1 believe also in me4 ,on the wall just back of the new tomb erected over the ashes of ,shelley by ,onslow ,ford in #ahia is a memorial tablet placed to ,frederick ,w4 ,h4 ,myers1 bearing this inscription3-- ,this tablet is placed to the memory of ,frederick ,william ,henry ,myers1 born at ,keswick1 ,cumberland1 ,feb4 #f1 #ahdc2 died in ,rome1 ,jan4 #ag1 #aija4 ',he asked life of ,thee1 and ,thou gavest him long life ever and forever4' ,over the grave of ,john ,addington ,symonds1 whose best monument is in his admirable ,history of the ,renaissance in ,italy1 is a ,latin inscription written by ,professor ,jowett of ,oxford1 and a stanza from the ,greek of ,cleanthes1 translated by ,mr4 ,symonds as follows3-- ,lead thou1 our ,god1 law1 reason1 motion1 life2 ,all names for ,thee alike are vain and hollow2 ,lead me1 for ,i will follow without strife1 ,or1 if ,i strive1 still more ,i blindly follow4 ,john ,addington ,symonds1 who certainly ranks as the most gifted interpreter of ,italy1 in her art1 her legends and associations1 and her landscape loveliness1 died in the ,rome he so loved in #ahic4 ,his wife was ill in ,venice1 but his daughter1 ,margaret1--his inseparable companion and his helper in his work1--was with him4 ,it is ,miss ,symonds who prefaced a memorial volume to her father with the exquisite lines3-- ,o ,love2 we two shall go no longer ,to lands of summer beyond the sea4 ,near the graves of ,keats and of his friend1 ,joseph ,severn1 are those of ,augustus ,william ,hare and ,john ,gibson1 the sculptor1 who died in #ahfh4 ,some ten years before ,hawthorne1 meeting ,gibson at a dinner given by ,t4 ,buchanan ,read1 wrote of him that it was whispered about the table that he had been in ,rome for forty-two years and that he had a quiet1 self-contained aspect as of one who had spent a calm life among his clay and marble4 ,dwight ,benton1 an ,american painter and writer1 who was for some time in the diplomatic service and whose home had been in ,rome for more than a quarter of a century1 lies buried here4 ,for many years he was the editor of ,the ,roman ,world1 which still sustains the interesting character that marked it during his editorship4 ,of his work in art a friend wrote3-- ,in painting1 as in literature1 ,dwight ,benton took his inspiration from nature4 ,his paintings of ,italian scenery are true and faithful representations of its character and atmospheric effects4 ,his tramps on the ,roman ,campagna were long and often tiring1 but he worked with all an artist's enthusiasm1 unmindful of cold1 rain1 and even hunger4 ,he would delight1 as all true artists1 in an old convent1 a tree1 a tower1 a cross1 which he would reproduce with a peculiar and striking perfection of tone and color4 ,in his paintings of ,keats's and ,shelley's tombs1 not only are the slabs and marble there1 but there1 also1 in all their naturalness1 are the stately pines and cypresses above1 with the sunshine and shadows alternating between them1 and in the background the turreted top of ,st4 ,paul's ,gateway1 the ,pyramid of ,caius ,cestius1 all lending effect and picturesqueness to the whole4 ,the present ,king of ,italy purchased one of ,mr4 ,benton's paintings1 called ,giornata di tristezza4 ,while art abounds in ,rome1 less can be said for literature4 ,there is a large and admirable selected ,italian library in connection with the ,collegio ,romano2 but while these books circulate1 under certain conditions1 to visitors1 and the courtesy of the librarian and his staff is generously kind1 the location and the ,italian methods render it a matter of some difficulty to avail one's self of its resources4 ,in the ,piazza di ,spagna there are two circulating libraries1 but although one of these claims twenty-five thousand volumes1 the majority are of mediocre fiction and almost none1 if any1 of the important modern works are to be found here4 ,the visitor who is a subscriber to this library passes into a small1 dark room1 where one window looking on the street hardly does more than make the darkness visible1 and he must take the catalogue to the window and stand in order to decipher the list1 which is hardly1 indeed1 worth the trouble1 as there are very few volumes of any pretension to importance in the collection1 and of late years no additions1 apparently1 have ever been made4 ,the other circulating library1 while far preferable1 is still in crowded rooms and the assortment is limited4 ,the visitor in ,rome who cares for reading matter looks forward with delight to ,florence1 with its noble circulating library1 to which access is so easy and whose conduct in all ways is so convenient and grateful to the guest4 ,in ,rome1 however1 one finds his romance embodied in life and his history written in the streets and in the marvellous structures4 ,his poetry is in her art1 her ruins1 her magical loveliness of hillside vistas1 her infinite views over the ,campagna1 her sapphire skies1 and her luminous1 golden atmosphere4 ,here ,ischia smiles ,o'er liquid miles1 ,and yonder1 bluest of the isles1 ,calm ,capri waits ,her sapphire gates1 ,beguiling to her bright estates4 ,oh1 ,signor6 thine the amber hand1 ,and mine the distant sea ,obedient to the least command ,thine eyes impose on me4 ,,iii ,,day-,,dreams ,,in ,,naples1 ,,amalfi1 ,,and ,,capri ,with dreamful eyes ,my spirit lies ,where summer sings but never dies4 ,naples is the paradise of excursions4 ,it is set in the heart of incomparable loveliness4 ,over its sapphire sea one sails away--to the ,fortunate ,isles1 or some others equally alluring4 ,its heights and adjacent mountains offer views that one might well cross the ocean to enjoy4 ,its atmosphere is full of classic interest2 of song1 and story1 and legend1 and romance2 of history1 too1 which in its tragic and exciting episodes is not less vivid in color and in strange studies of human life than is any romance4 ,naples is the city of fascination4 ,rome is stately and impressive2 ,florence is all beauty and enchantment2 ,genoa is picturesque2 ,venice is a dream city2 but ,naples is simply--fascinating4 ,there is the common life of the streets and the populace continually en scne2 the people who are at home on the sunny side in winter1 or the shady side in summer2 there is the social life of the nobility1 which is brilliant and vivacious4 ,the excursions1 of which ,naples is the centre1 are the chief interest to travellers1 and these1 while possible in winter1 are far more enjoyable in the early spring4 ,still even in midwinter the days are sunny1 and while the air is crisp and cool1 it is not cold4 ,the grass is as green as in ,june2 but the foliage and flowers are more or less withered4 ,naples has the high and the lower town1 the former the more desirable1 and the fine hotels perched on the terraces1 with the view all over the ,bay of ,naples1 ,capri1 ,sorrento1 and ,vesuvius1 offer a vista hardly to be duplicated in the entire world4 ,the lower town has its fine hotels on the water's edge1 with a beautiful view over the bay1 less enchanting than when seen from above4 ,the ,bay of ,naples is enclosed in two semicircular arms that extend far out at sea1 the southern reaching nearly to ,capri1 while near the termination of the northern1 ,fair ,ischia smiles ,o'er liquid miles4 ,far out at sea the sun shines dazzlingly on the blue ,mediterranean4 ,the landscape is full of those curious formations that are always inherent in volcanic regions4 ,the region surrounding ,naples is abrupt1 picturesque1 with the same irregular outline of hills that characterizes the elevations in the ,tonto basin in ,arizona4 ,the vegetation is of the tropical type4 ,the cactus is common1 although it grows to no such monstrous heights as in ,arizona4 ,orange and lemon groves prevail as far as the eye can see4 ,on every height towns and villages crown the crests and sweep in winding terraces around the hillsides4 ,olive orchards abound4 ,castles and ruins gleam white in the sunshine on the ledge of rocky precipices4 ,the curved shores shine like broken lines of silver1 with deep indentations at ,naples and at ,castellammare4 ,between these two points rises ,vesuvius1 the thin blue smoke constantly curling from the summit that1 since the eruption of #aijf1 has lost much of its elevation4 ,in many places there is hardly the width of a roadway between the low mountains and the coast1 but the cliffs are tropically luxurious in vegetation4 ,everywhere the habitations of the people crowd the space4 ,from the monasteries and the castles that crown the heights1 both distant and near to the clustered villages of the plain and those clinging to the hillsides1 the scene is one unending panorama of human life4 ,for ,naples is only the focussing point of these densely populated regions of ,southern ,italy4 ,the city stretches along the coast on both sides her semicircular bay2 but the terraced hills1 the stretches of land beyond1 and every peak and valley are thickly sown with human habitations4 ,its commanding heights1 two of which rise in the middle of the town1 and its beautiful mirrored expanse of water give to it the most unparalleled variety and beauty of landscape loveliness4 ,what words can analyze1 says ,george ,s4 ,hillard1 the parts and details of this matchless panorama1 or unravel that magic web of beauty into which palaces1 villas1 forests1 gardens1 vineyards1 the mountains1 and the sea are woven8 ,what pen can paint the soft curves1 the gentle undulations1 the flowing outlines1 the craggy steeps1 and the far-seen heights1 which1 in their combination1 are so full of grace and1 at the same time1 expression8 ,words here are imperfect instruments1 and must yield their place to the pencil and the graver4 ,but no canvas can reproduce the light and color which play round this enchanting region4 ,no skill can catch the changing hues of the distant mountains1 the star-points of the playing waves1 the films of purple and green which spread themselves over the calm waters1 the sunsets of gold and orange1 and the aerial veils of rose and amethyst which drop upon the hills from the skies of morning and evening4 ,the author of the book of ,ecclesiasticus seems to have described ,naples1 when he speaks of 'the pride of the height1 the clear firmament1 the beauty of heaven1 with his glorious show4' ',see ,naples and then die1' is a well-known ,italian saying2 but it should read1 ',see ,naples and then live4' ,one glance at such a scene stamps upon the memory an image which1 forever after1 gives a new value to life4 ,illustration3 ,,castel ,,sant',,elmo1 ,,naples ,page #bca ,naples gives to the visitor the impression of being a city without a past4 ,if she has a history1 it is not written in her streets4 ,she is poetic and picturesque1 not historic4 ,the heights of ,capodimonte and ,sant',elmo divide her into unequal parts1 and there is the old ,naples which only the antiquarian or the political economist would wish to see1 and the new and modern city which is such a miracle of beauty that one longs to stay forever1 and fails to wonder that the siren sought these shores4 ,naples has either been very much misrepresented as to its prevailing manners and customs1 or else it has changed within the past decade1 for1 as a rule1 the gentle courtesy and kindness of the people are especially appealing4 ,augustus often sojourned in ,naples1 and it was an especially poetic haunt of ,virgil1 whose tomb is here4 ,although the poverty and the primitive life of the great masses of the people have been widely discussed1 it is yet true that ,naples has a very charming social life1 and that the ,university is a centre of learning and culture4 ,one of the oldest universities in ,europe1 it has a faculty of over one hundred and twenty professors and more than five thousand students4 ,a large and valuable library1 and a mineralogical collection which specialists from all over the world come to study1 are among the treasures of this ,university1 which was founded in the early part of the thirteenth century by ,emperor ,frederick ,william ,,ii4 ,there is now in process of erection a new group of buildings which will embody the latest laboratory and library and other privileges4 ,archology is1 naturally1 a special feature of the ,university of ,naples1 and the proximity to ,pompeii1 ,herculaneum1 and to the wonderful ,pompeian collection in the ,museum of ,naples affords peculiar and unrivalled advantages to students4 ,a bust of ,thomas ,aquinas1 during his life a lecturer at this ,university1 is one of the interesting treasures4 ,the ,archives of the ,kingdom of ,naples attract many a scholar and savant to this city4 ,there are in this collection 7which is kept in the monastery adjoining the ,church of ,san ,severino7 over forty thousand ,greek manuscripts1 some of which date back to the year #gjj4 ,the ,naples ,museum is the great repository of all ,pompeian art1 and it is rich in sculpture2 but it is badly arranged and the vast series of galleries and the long flights of stairs make any study of its work so fatiguing that a visit to it might rank as one of the seven labors of ,hercules4 ,in the royal museum of the ,palazzo di ,capodimonte1 which is located on the beautiful height bearing that name1 there are some pictures that are well worth visiting1 not because they are particularly good art1 but because of the interest attaching to the subjects4 ,this gallery is largely the work of modern ,neapolitan artists4 ,here is the celebrated picture of ,michael ,angelo bending over the dead body of ,vittoria ,colonna1 kissing only her hand1 and haunted by the after-regret that he did not kiss her forehead4 ,virginia ,lebrun has here portraits of ,maria ,theresa and of the ,duchess of ,parma2 there is one canvas 7by ,celentano7 showing ,benvenuto ,cellini at the ,castel ,sant',angelo2 a scene depicting the death of ,csar and a few others of some degree of interest4 ,curiously1 ,naples has never produced great art4 ,salvator ,rosa was1 to be sure1 a ,neapolitan1 but his is almost the only name that has made itself immortal in the art of this city4 ,domenico ,morelli1 who has recently died1 made himself felt as an original painter with certain claims that arrested attention4 ,he is not a draughtsman1 but he is a colorist of passionate intensity2 he has original power and1 more than all1 he has a curious endowment of what may be called artistic clairvoyance4 ,transporting himself by the magic of thought to places on which his eye never rested1 he yet sees as in vision their special characteristics4 ,in one of his most important works1 the motive of which is the temptation of ,jesus in the wilderness1 he has painted the desert with a startling reality4 ,here is a great plain1 the stony1 parched ,judean plain1 with the very feeling of its desolation pervading the atmosphere4 ,the ,royal ,chapel in ,naples was decorated by ,morelli1 the ceiling painted with an ,assumption of the ,virgin1 which stands alone in all the interpretations of this theme2 not by virtue of superior artistic excellence1--on the contrary its art does not make a strong appeal1--but by its originality of treatment4 ,the ,salve ,regina and the ,da ,scala d',oro are among the more interesting works of this artist1 whose recent death has removed a figure of exceptional character in modern art1 one who had1 pre-eminently1 the courage of his convictions4 ,some few years ago ,morelli's ,temptation of ,st4 ,anthony was exhibited in both ,paris and ,florence1 and was generally condemned1 perhaps because not wholly understood4 ,the form of the temptation was supposed to be the shapes taken by a morbid and diseased imagination2 but while as a psychological conception it was not without value1 it was yet far from attractive as a work of art4 ,the finest conception1 perhaps1 ever depicted of the temptation of ,st4 ,anthony--a subject that has haunted many an artist--is that painted by the late ,carl ,guthers of ,washington1 a lofty and gifted spirit whose too brief stay on earth ended in the early months of #aijg4 ,in this picture the temptation of the saint appears as a vision of all that is purest and sweetest in life1--wife1 children1 home2 it was from all this peace and loveliness that ,st4 ,anthony turned1 sacrificing personal happiness to the duty of consecrated service to his ,master1 in the exquisite conception of ,mr4 ,guthers4 ,edoardo ,dalbano is the typical leader of the ,neapolitan school of painting of the present day1 and his fascinating picture1 called the ,isle of ,sirens1 representing the sirens singing in the sunlit ,bay of ,naples1 might well be held as the keynote to all this enchanting region4 ,surely1 if the sirens sing not in those blue waters1 it were useless to search elsewhere for them4 ,buono is an artist of the ,neapolitan shores1 who paints its fisher-folk2 ,brancaccio catches the very spirit and animated atmosphere of the street scenes of ,naples2 ,campriani and ,pratello are landscapists of note2 ,esposito1 too1 despite his ,spanish name1 is a ,neapolitan marine painter whose work is often most arresting in its power to catch the flickering sunshine over blue water that bathes the rocks rising out of the sea1--these isles of the sirens from which float the melodies that enchanted ,odysseus4 ,the traveller may be surprised to find that in size ,naples ranks fourth on the ,european ,continent1--,paris1 ,berlin1 and ,st4 ,petersburg1 only1 exceeding it4 ,naples should be1 not only a port1 a pleasure haunt1 and a paradise for excursions1 but one of the great cities of the world in commercial and in social importance4 ,it has one of the finest natural harbors of the world2 it has a beautiful and attractive adjoining country in which to extend1 indefinitely1 its residence and trade districts2 it has the most enchanting fairyland of views that ever were seen this side the ethereal world2 it has an atmosphere of song and story and a climate that is far from being objectionable4 ,naples is seldom the possessor of a higher temperature in summer than is ,new ,york or ,boston2 the winters are mild1 and they offer weeks of sunny loveliness when ,rome is swept by the icy tramontana from the snow-clad ,alban hills4 ,naples offers1 too1 exceedingly good facilities for living2 the groups of excellent hotels1 both on the terraces and on the water's edge in the lower town and along the ,villa ,nazionale1 offer every comfort1 and the politeness and courtesy of the ,neapolitans1 as a rule1 are among the alluring features of this enchanting city4 ,what shall be said of one hotel1 especially1 perched on the cliffs1 to which one ascends by an elevator1 finding it the most luxurious fairyland that imagination can conjure8 ,leaving the street one walks through a marble tunnel lighted with electricity1 wondering if he is1 indeed1 in the grotto of the ,muses4 ,entering a lift truly ,american in its comfort and speed1 he is wafted up the heights and steps out in--is it paradise8 ,here is a large salon entirely of glass with an incomparable view all over the gleaming bay1 with ,capri and ,sorrento shining fair on the opposite sides and ,vesuvius1 a purple peak1 in the near distance4 ,the great city of ,naples lies spread out below1 with its interior heights of ,capodimonte and others4 ,it is a view for which alone one might well sail the four thousand miles of sea from the ,american shores4 ,through open ,french windows one may step out on the terrace4 ,if it is cold he may still enjoy this sublimely wonderful view behind the glass walls that reveal all its beauty and protect him from wind or chill4 ,elsewhere adjoining salons stretch away1 where sunshine1 music1 reading matter1 and dainty writing-desks allure the guest and create for him1 indeed1 an earthly paradise4 ,of the drive on the ,strada ,nuova di ,posilipo1 skirting the coast while following the winding rise of the hill1 with the sumptuous villas and gardens on one side and the blue sea on the other1--what words can suggest its charm8 ,on a jutting promontory on the ruins of the ,palazzo di ,donna ,ana are seen the palace whose convenient location made it possible for the royal hosts to throw their guests into the sea whenever they became tiresome1 an accommodation that the modern hostess might1 at times1 appreciate4 ,on this road1 winding up the ,posilipo1 is the villa where ,garibaldi passed the last winter of his life and which is marked by a tablet4 ,and everywhere and at every turn are the beautiful views1 commanding ,bagnoli1 ,camaldoli1 ,ischia1 ,baia and ,procida1 ,capri1 ,nisida and the ,neapolitan waters4 ,the hill slopes are overgrown with myrtles and orange trees and roses4 ,here and there a defile is filled with a vineyard under careful culture4 ,in the presence of all this marvel of nature's loveliness the visitor hardly remembers the historic interest2 yet it was on the little island of ,nisida that ,brutus and ,cassius concocted the conspiracy against ,csar4 ,the vast ,phlegran ,plain before the eye is invested with ,hellenic traditions and is the region of many scenes in the poems of ,virgil and ,homer4 ,in the years of the first and second centuries this plain was dotted with the rich villas of the ,roman aristocracy4 ,here1 too1 lay the celebrated ,lacus ,avernus1 a volcanic lake which the ancients regarded as the entrance to ,avernus itself4 ,truly it required little imagination to see here the approach to the infernal regions4 ,the air was so poisonous that no bird could fly over the lake and live4 ,virgil's scene of the descent of neas1 guided by the sibyl1 into the infernal depths is laid here2 and near this lake are resorts of the latter-day tourist1 known as the ,sibyl's ,grotto1 the ,grotto della ,pace1 the ,bagni di ,sibyl1 and the ,inferno4 ,illustration3 ,,ancient ,,temple1 ,,bai ,page #bda ,baia1 on the coast1 was the ,newport of ,rome in the days of ,augustus1 ,hadrian1 ,cicero1 and ,nero4 ,it was then the most magnificent summer watering-place known to the world4 ,the glory of the ,roman ,empire was reflected in the glory of ,baia4 ,in one of the ,epistles of ,horace a ,roman noble is made to say3 ,nothing in the world can be compared with the lovely bay of ,baia4 ,some five hundred years ago this region became so malarial that no one could dwell in it4 ,fragments and ruins still remain of the imposing baths and villas of the ,roman occupancy4 ,an old crater called the ,capo ,miseno is described by ,virgil as the burial place of ,misenus3-- ,at pius neas ingenti mole sepulcrum ,inponit1 suaque arma viro remumque tubamque ,monte sub aereo1 qui nunc ,misenus ab illo ,dicitur aeternumque tenet per saecula nomen4 ,cum was the most ancient ,greek colony of ,italy on the coast1 and the last survivors of the ,tarquinii died here4 ,this is the most classic of all these legendary coast towns near ,naples1 as it was here that the ,cuman ,sibyl dwelt with the mysterious sibylline leaves1--the books that were carried to ,rome4 ,a colossal ,acropolis was once here1 fragments of whose walls are now standing2 and the rocky foundation is honeycombed with secret passages and openings4 ,it is here that ,virgil's ,grotto of the ,sibyl is supposed to have stood1--the grotto whence resound as many voices1 the oracles of the prophetess4 ,the journey from ,naples to ,herculaneum is easily made by electric train cars within an hour1 and while there is not much to see it is still an excursion well worth making4 ,dr4 de ,petra1 of the chair of ,archology in the ,university of ,naples1 and formerly the ,director of the ,national ,museum1 is warmly in favor of the proposed excavation of this buried city1 as is ,professor ,spinazzola of the ,san ,martino museum1 who believes that ,italy may well become one vast museum of antiquities4 ,as the theatre of ,herculaneum is actually at present a subterranean excavation1 he observed1 why not excavate in a similar way the entire city underneath modern ,resina8 ,in this way a perfectly unique underground museum would be formed1 which would have the merit of leaving magnificent ,roman art treasures exactly in their proper places in the villas4 ,such a work ought to be perfectly practicable1 with the resources of modern engineering1 and would certainly be unique in the world4 ,there would be no need to build a special museum for the objects discovered4 ,not only would this money be saved1 but ,i feel convinced that so many visitors would be attracted as to more than pay for the maintenance4 ,a subterraneous ,herculaneum--surely a perfectly unique place of pilgrimage1 just as it was nearly two thousand years ago--might be lighted by electric arc lights4 ,i feel certain it would attract sight-seers from the ends of the world4 ,at the same time work might go on in the open parts of the city4 ,pompeii was more of an industrial town1 while ,herculaneum was a favorite resort of the ,roman patricians1 who did not bring their treasures with them from their northern homes1 but had them executed by ,greek artists in the south4 ,under the mighty floods of lava d'acqua that buried ,herculaneum doubtless lie temples1 a splendid forum1 magnificent villas1 and most valuable art and literary treasures4 ,in the eighteenth century excavations brought to light rare bronzes1 mosaics1 and papyri4 ,the famous equestrian statue of ,balbo1 in the ,naples ,museum1 was excavated from ,herculaneum4 ,professor ,lanciani and ,commendatore ,boni of ,rome--the latter the present director of the ,forum1 succeeding ,lanciani--believe that some of the richest art of ancient times may be found in ,herculaneum2 as does ,professor ,dall',osso1 inspector of excavations at ,pompeii4 ,herculaneum is held to have been founded by ,hercules when he landed at ,campania1 returning from ,iberia1 some three hundred years ,b4,c41 and it was in #fc ,a4,d4 that it was destroyed4 ,of this cataclysm ,pliny1 the ,younger1 wrote3-- ,the sea seemed to roll back on itself by the convulsions of the earth4 ,on the other side hung a black and dreadful cloud1 bursting with fiery and serpentine vapors4 ,naught was heard in the darkness but the shrieks of women1 the screams of children1 and the frenzied cries of men calling for children1 for wives1 for parents1--all lifting hands to the gods1 praying and wishing for death4 ,dr4 ,charles ,waldstein of ,cambridge ,university1 the eminent archologist1 whose efforts toward initiating the excavation of ,herculaneum were a notable event of #aijf1 thus writes of this buried city3-- ,it is important to bear in mind that naturally all the best works in the ,museum of ,naples1 especially the bronzes1 came from ,herculaneum and not from ,pompeii4 ,what is most striking is the marvellous preservation of these works4 ,this fact of itself ought to counteract the strange but widespread misapprehension that1 while ,pompeii was covered with cinders and ashes1 ,herculaneum was covered with lava1 and that the hardness of that material made excavation difficult1 if not impossible4 ,all geologists and archologists are agreed that no lava issued from the eruption of #gi ,a4,d4 ,herculaneum was covered by a torrent of mud consisting of ashes and cinders mixed with water4 ,the mass which covers it1 so far from being less favorable to the preservation of objects1 is much more favorable than that which covers ,pompeii4 ,pompeii was partially covered with hot ashes and pumice stones1 which burnt or damaged the works of art4 ,as it was not wholly covered1 moreover1 the inhabitants returned and dug up some of their greatest treasures4 ,herculaneum1 on the other hand1 had its actual life1 arrested at the highest point1 securely preserved from depredation1 to a depth of eighty feet1 by a material which preserved intact the most delicate specimens which have come down to us in a state so perfect as to be really remarkable4 ,the most important of these delicate objects are manuscripts1 of which that one villa produced #agej4 ,the state of preservation is illustrated by one specimen1 giving two pages from the works of the philosopher ,philademus4 ,unfortunately1 the possessor of the villa was a specialist1 a student of ,epicurean philosophy4 ,while his taste in art was fortunately so catholic1 his taste in literature was narrowed down by his special bent4 ,piso was the friend and protector of the philosopher ,philo4 ,already sixty-five copies of that author's works have been found among the papyri4 ,yet the city of ,herculaneum contained many such villas1 and herein it differed from ,pompeii4 ,pompeii was a commonplace provincial town devoted exclusively to commerce2 it was not the resort of wealthy and cultured ,romans4 ,it was essentially illiterate4 ,no manuscript can be proved to have been found there4 ,it is true a wax tablet with writing has been found2 yet this contains--receipts of auctions4 ,herculaneum1 on the other hand1 was the favorite resort of wealthy ,romans1 who built beautiful villas there as in our times people from modern ,rome settle for the summer at ,sorrento and ,castellammare4 ,the present descent into the theatre of ,herculaneum is made by a flight of more than a hundred steps1 slippery and cold1 in total darkness save for the candle that is carried by the guide1 and the visitor sees only the stone seats of the amphitheatre and the stage with the two vacant niches1 the statues that filled each being now placed in the ,museum in ,naples4 ,the journey of thirteen miles from ,naples to ,pompeii is through a succession of densely populated villages that seem to be an integral part of ,naples itself1 for there is no line of demarcation4 ,portici1 ,torre del ,greco1 ,torre dell',annunziata1 and others all blend with each other and with ,naples4 ,however familiar one has become with the literature of ,pompeii1 with both archological descriptions and imaginative interpretations in romance1 and however familiar with its aspects he may have become from replicas in art museums1 and from pictures1 one can yet hardly approach this silent1 phantom city without being thrilled by its deep significance4 ,at a distance of a few miles over the gently undulating plain rises ,vesuvius2 one gazes on the paths where the rivers of molten fire must have rolled down4 ,george ,s4 ,hillard1 visiting ,pompeii in #ahec1 thus described a house which the visitors of to-day study and admire3-- ,the finest house we saw within the walls is one which had been discovered and laid bare about four months previous to the date of our visit1 called the house of the ,suonatrice1 from a painting of a female playing on a pipe1 at the entrance4 ,this house was deemed of such peculiar interest that it was under the charge of a special custode1 and was only to be seen on payment of an extra fee4 ,it was not of large size1 but had evidently been occupied by a person of ample fortune and exquisite taste4 ,the paintings on the walls were numerous1 and in the most perfect preservation4 ,in the rear was a minute garden not more than twenty or thirty feet square1 with a fairy fountain in the centre2 around which were several small statues of children and animals1 of white marble1 wrought with considerable skill4 ,the whole thing had a very curious effect1 like the tasteful baby-house of a grown-up child4 ,everything in this house was in the most wonderful preservation4 ,the metal pipes which distributed the water1 and the cocks by which it was let off1 looked perfectly suited for use4 ,nothing at ,pompeii seemed so real as this house1 and nowhere else were the embellishments so numerous and so costly4 ,pompeii1 though a ,roman city in its political relations1 was everywhere strongly marked with the impress of the ,greek mind4 ,it stood on the northern edge of that part of ,italy which1 from the number of ,grecian colonies it contained1 was called ,magna ,grcia1--a region of enchanting beauty1 in which the genius of ,greece attained its most luxurious development4 ,it has been conjectured that ,pompeii had an unusually large proportion of men of property1 who had been drawn there by the charms of its situation and climate1 and that it thus extended a liberal patronage to ,greek architects1 painters1 and sculptors4 ,at any rate1 the spirit of ,greece still lives and breathes in its ashes4 ,its temples1 as restored by modern architects1 are ,greek4 ,its works in marble and bronze claim a place in that cyclus of art of which the metopes of the ,parthenon are the highest point of excellence4 ,the pictures that embellish the walls1 the unzoned nymphs1 the bounding ,bacchantes1 the grotesque ,fauns1 the playful arabesques1 all are informed with the airy and creative spirit of ,greek art4 ,the ruins of ,pompeii are not merely an open-air museum of curiosities1 but they have great value in the illustration they offer to ,roman history and ,roman literature4 ,the antiquarian of our times studies the great realm of the past with incomparable advantage1 by the help of the torch here lighted4 ,from ,pompeii to ,castellammare1 the beautiful seaside summer resort of the ,neapolitans1 a lover of nature could hardly find a spot of more varied attractions4 ,before him spreads the unrivalled bay1--dotted with sails and unfolding a broad canvas1 on which the most glowing colors and the most vivid lights are dashed1--a mirror in which the crimson and gold of morning1 the blue of noon1 and the orange and yellow-green of sunset behold a livelier image of themselves1--a gentle and tideless sea1 whose waves break upon the shore like caresses1 and never like angry blows4 ,should he ever become weary of waves and languish for woods1 he has only to turn his back upon the sea and climb the hills for an hour or two1 and he will find himself in the depth of sylvan and mountain solitudes1--in a region of vines1 running streams1 deep-shadowed valleys1 and broad-armed oaks1--where he will hear the ringdove coo1 and see the sensitive hare dart across the forest aisles4 ,a great city is within an hour's reach2 and the shadow of ,vesuvius hangs over the landscape1 keeping the imagination awake by touches of mystery and terror4 ,the road to ,sorrento1 on a cliff a hundred feet or more above the sea1 with mountains on the other side1 towering up hundreds of feet high2 a road cut in many places out of the solid rock1 supported by galleries and viaducts from below1--a road that crosses deep gorges and chasms1 always with the iridescent colors of the sea below1--and from ,sorrento to ,amalfi again1 only1 if possible1 even more wonderful1--is there in the world any drive that can rival this picturesque and sublime route8 ,of it ,george ,eliot wrote3-- ,it is an unspeakably grand drive round the mighty rocks with the sea below2 and ,amalfi itself surpasses all imagination of a romantic site for a city that once made itself famous in the world4 ,sorrento1 with its memories and associations of ,tasso1 seems a place in which one cares only to sit on the balcony of the hotel overhanging the sea and watch the magic spectacle of a panorama unrivalled in all the beauty of the world4 ,flowers grow in riotous profusion2 the fairy sail of a flitting boat is caught in the deepening dusk2 the dark outline of ,vesuvius is seen against the horizon2 and orange orchards gleam against gray walls4 ,here ,tasso was born1 in #aedd1 fit haunt for a poet1 with tangles of gay blossoms and the aerial line of mountain peaks4 ,a low parapet borders the precipice1 and over it one leans in the air heavy with perfume of locust blossoms4 ,has the lovely town anything beside sunsets and stars and poets' dreams8 ,who could ask for more8 ,to ,la ,cava1--to ,amalfi1--still all a dream world6 ,o summer day1 beside the joyous sea6 ,o summer day so wonderful and white1 ,so full of gladness and so full of pain6 ,how ,amalfi sets itself to song and music6 ,who can enter it without hearing in the air ,longfellow's beautiful lines8-- ,sweet the memory is to me ,of a land beyond the sea1 ,where the waves and mountains meet1 ,where1 amid her mulberry-trees1 ,sits ,amalfi in the heat1 ,bathing ever her white feet ,in the tideless summer seas4 99 99 99 99 99 ',tis a stairway1 not a street1 ,that ascends the deep ravine1 ,where the torrent leaps between ,rocky walls that almost meet4 99 99 99 99 99 ,this is an enchanted land6 ,round the headlands1 far away1 ,sweeps the blue ,salernian bay ,with its sickle of white sand2 ,further still and furthermost ,on the dim discovered coast1 ,pstum with its ruins lies1 ,and its roses all in bloom4 ,if ever a region was dropped out of paradise designed1 solely1 for a poet's day-dreams1 it is ,amalfi1 and the even more beautiful ,ravello just above4 ,one fancies that it must have been in the mystic loveliness of this eyrie that the poet lost himself in a day-dream while ,jupiter was dividing all the goods of the world4 ,when he reproached the god for not saving a portion for him1 ,jupiter replied that all the goods were gone1 it was true1 but that his heaven was always open to the poet4 ,the ancient ,amalfi1 the city of activities and merchandise1 is gone4 ,where are now the freighted barks ,from the marts of east and west8 ,where the knights in iron sarks ,journeying to the ,holy ,land1 ,glove of steel upon the hand1 ,cross of crimson on the breast8 ,where the pomp of camp and court8 ,where the pilgrims with their prayers8 ,where the merchants with their wares8 99 99 99 99 99 ,vanished like a fleet of cloud1 ,like a passing trumpet-blast1 ,are those splendors of the past1 ,and the commerce and the crowd6 ,fathoms deep beneath the seas ,lie the ancient warves and quays1 ,swallowed by the engulfing waves4 ,it is impossible to realize that ,amalfi was once a flourishing city of ,oriental trade4 ,one looks in vain for any trace of ruin or shrine that still suggests the ancient splendors of activity4 ,the strata of the past1 so visible in other medival cities1 are not apparent here4 ,the great cathedral is a most interesting study in the art of architecture1--its exquisite arcades1 its delicate1 lofty campanile glittering in the sun4 ,the green-roofed cupola is a distinctive feature1 and up the many flights of stairs the old ,capuccini convent lies1--the unique1 romantic hotel where the cells of the monks are now the rooms of the perpetual procession of guests4 ,does the wraith of ,cardinal ,capuano1 who founded this convent1 still wander in midnight hours through the dim cloisters8 ,does he still keep watch by the body of ,st4 ,andrew1 the apostle1 which he is said to have found and brought to the cathedral where the saint lies1 as a saint should lie1 gloriously entombed4 ,st4 ,andrew was the patron saint of ,amalfi1 but at his death his body was carried from ,patras to the ,bosphorus1 where it was placed in a church in ,constantinople4 ,the legend runs that ,cardinal ,capuano1 being in ,constantinople1 entered the ,church of the ,holy ,apostles to pray1 and knowing that the body of the saint was in that city1 he besought the heavenly powers to guide him to it4 ,rising from his devotions he was approached by an aged priest1 who announced to the ,cardinal that the object of his search was in that very church in which he was praying for guidance2 and1 aided by unseen powers1 he was able to recover it and convey it to ,amalfi4 ,all ,italian towns that respect themselves offer the allurement of an entombed saint and if1 occasionally1 the same identical saint does duty for more than one city1 who is to decide the local genuineness of the claim8 ,nothing in all ,italy is so curious as is this town of staircases instead of streets2 of houses perched on the angles of impossible eyries suggesting that1 as the ,venetians go about in gondolas1 so the ,amalfians must have airships1 or the wings of ,icarus1 with which to circle in air from their dwellings to the beach4 ,the precipitous gorges and dark ravines have on their crests low parapets of stone walls over which the visitor lingers and leans watching the bluest of seas lying fair under the bluest of skies4 ,the main road1--there is only one1--descending from the hill to the water's edge1 makes its progress through a tunnel4 ,the old ,amalfi1 with its palaces1 its arches and colonnades1 lies under the sea4 ,just as the ,pensione ,caterina with its rose walks and terraces slipped into the sea in ,december of #ahii1 when two guests and several fishermen lost their lives1 so the ancient ,amalfi fell1 its cliffs swallowed up in the waters below4 ,hidden from all mortal eyes1 ,deep the sunken city lies2 ,silent streets and vacant halls1 ,ruined roofs and towers and walls2 ,even cities have their graves6 ,when1 on a ,may evening1 the white moonlight falls in cascades of silver sheen over terraces and sea1 with ,amalfi all alabaster and pearl like a dream city in the ethereal air2 when the stars hang low in the skies and the fairy lights of the fishermen's boats twinkle far out at sea2 when the summer silence is suddenly thrilled by the melody of ,neapolitan songs on the air1 as if it were a veritable chant d'amour of sirens1--then does one believe in the buried city4 ,these rich baritone voices are surely those of some singers of the buried ages4 ,they are floating across the centuries since ,amalfi had its pride and place among the great centres of activity4 ,atrani1 ,amalfi's twin city1 lies in the adjoining defile of the mountains which arch above them4 ,the strange old houses are all dazzlingly white1 transfigured under the moon to an unearthly loveliness4 ,the tragedy of the ruin of ,amalfi is related by ,petrarca1 who was then living in ,naples4 ,it was in #acdc that a terrible cataclysm--an earthquake accompanied by a tempest--caused the destruction and the submergence of the city in the sea4 ,the believers in astrology will find their faith re-enforced by the fact that a bishop1 who was also an astrologist1 had read in the stars that in ,december of #acdc a terrible disaster would occur on the ,naples coast4 ,it arrived on schedule time4 ,petrarca1 writing of it to ,giovanni ,colonna1 states that in consequence of the prediction of the bishop1 the people were in a condition of wild terror1 endeavoring to repent of their sins and aspiring to a purer moral life4 ,in this tide of religious emotion1 ordinary occupations were neglected4 ,on the very day of the calamity people were crowding the churches and kneeling in prayer4 ,at night1 after the people were in bed1 the shock came4 ,the sunset had been fair1 the evening quiet1 and the people were reassured4 ,but they were awakened from sleep by the violence of falling walls and the terror of the tempest4 ,petrarcha was lodging in a convent1 and he heard the monks calling to one another as they rushed from cell to cell4 ,they hastily gathered crosses and sacred relics in their hands1 and1 preceded by the prior1 sought the chapel1 where they passed the night in prayer while the tempest raged outside4 ,the sea broke against the rocks with a fury that seemed to tear the very foundations of the earth4 ,the thunder pealed1 and mingled with it were the shrieks of the frightened populace4 ,the rain fell in torrents1 deluging the city as if the sea itself were pouring on it4 ,when the morning came the darkness still continued4 ,in the harbor broken ships crashed helplessly together4 ,the sands were strewn with mutilated dead bodies4 ,between ,capri and the shore the sea ran mountains high4 ,amalfi was completely destroyed1 and has never regained her prestige4 ,the cathedral at ,ravello has traces of the rich art it once enshrined1 and the rose gardens of the ,palazzo ,rufolo might enchant ,hafiz himself4 ,the terrace on the very crest of the mountain commands one of the wonderful views of the world4 ,the cloistered colonnades of this old ,saracenic palace reveal views even to the plains of ,pstum4 ,there are rare mosaics and fragments of bronzes and marbles yet remaining4 ,the noble ,greek ruins at ,pstum--the three temples--stand in all the majesty of utter desolation4 ,they are overgrown with flowers1 however1 and they stand dewy in the light of the rising dawn-star4 ,the shrine is ruined now1 and far away ,to east and west stretch olive groves1 whose shade1 ,even at the height of summer noon1 is gray4 99 99 99 99 99 ,yet this was once a hero's temple1 crowned ,with myrtle boughs by lovers1 and with palm ,by wrestlers1 resonant with sweetest sound ,of flute and fife in summer evening's calm1 ,and odorous with incense all the year1 ,with nard and spice and galbanum and balm4 ,the detour to ,pstum is full of significance4 ,the massive columns of the temples stand like giants of the ages4 ,it is difficult1 writes ,john ,addington ,symonds1 not to return again and again to the beauty of coloring at ,pstum4 ,lying basking in the sun on a flat slab of stone1 and gazing eastward1 we overlook a foreground of dappled light and shadow2 then come two stationary columns built1 it seems1 of solid gold1 where the sunbeams strike along their russet surface4 ,between them lies the landscape1 a medley first of brakefern and asphodel and feathering acanthus and blue spikes2 while beyond and above is a glimpse of mountains1 purple almost to indigo with cloud shadows1 and flecked with snow4 ,the sail from ,amalfi to ,pstum is one incomparable in loveliness4 ,the sunshine is all lurid gold4 ,the faint1 transparent blue haze fills all the defiles of the mountains2 the cliffs disclose yawning caverns where vast clusters of stalactites hang2 and as the boat floats toward ,capri from the ,sorrento promontory its rocky headlands rise and flame into purple and rose against the glowing sky4 ,across the ,bay of ,naples rises the great city4 ,it stands in some subtle way reminding one of the scene where one 444 rowing hard against the stream1 ,saw distant gates of ,eden gleam4 ,capri is the idyllic island of prismatic light and shade1 of gay and joyous life4 ,here ,tiberius had his summer palace1 and it was from these shores that he sent the historic letter which revolutionized the life of ,sejanus4 ,the letter--verbosa et grandis epistola--is still vivid in the historic associations of ,rome4 ,capri is one of the favorite resorts both for winter and summer4 ,its former modest prices are now greatly increased1 like all the latter-day expenses of ,italy2 but its beauty is perennial1 and the artist and poet can still command there a seclusion almost impossible to secure elsewhere in ,italy4 ,the distinguished artist1 ,elihu ,vedder of ,rome1 has a country house on ,capri1 and another well-known artist1 ,charles ,caryl ,coleman1 makes this island his home4 ,there are days--sometimes several days in succession--that the sea is high and the boats cannot run between ,naples1 ,sorrento1 and ,capri2 and the enforced seclusion is still the seclusion of the poet's dream4 ,for he shares it with ,mithras1 the unconquered god of the sun1 whose cult influenced all the monarchs of ,europe and who holds his court in the ,grotto de ,matrimonia4 ,into this grotto one descends by a flight of nearly two hundred feet2 he strolls among the ruins of the villa of ,tiberius1 where the very air is still vital and vocal with those strange and tragic chapters of ,roman life4 ,the ,emperor ,augustus first founded here palaces and aqueducts4 ,tiberius1 who retired to ,capri in the year #bg ,a4,d41 had his architects build twelve villas1 in honor of the gods1 the largest of these being for ,jupiter and known as the ,villa ,jovis4 ,in #ca ,a4,d4 occurred that dramatic episode in ,roman history1 the fall of ,sejanus1 and six years later ,tiberius died4 ,the vast white marble baths he had built for him are now submerged on the coast1 and boats glide over the spot where they stood4 ,the ,villa ,jovis stood on a cliff seven hundred feet above the sea1 and the traditions of the barbarities and atrocities that took place there still haunt the island4 ,the natives apparently regard them as a certain title to fame1 but the wise tourists persistently ignore horrors2 life is made for joy1 sweetness1 and charm2 it is far wiser to think on these things4 ,and there is charm and joy to spare on lovely ,capri4 ,sea-mists are frequent in the early summer mornings1 swathing the cliffs of ,capri and brooding on the smooth water till the day wind rises1 says ,john ,addington ,symonds4 ,then they disappear like magic1 rolling in smoke-wreaths from the surface of the sea1 condensing into clouds and climbing the hills like ,oceanides in quest of ,prometheus1 or taking their station on the watch towers of the world as in the chorus of the ,nephelai4 ,such a morning may be chosen for the giro of the island4 ,the ,blue ,grotto loses nothing of its beauty1 but rather gains by contrast1 when passing from dense fog you find yourself transported to a world of wavering subaqueous sheen4 ,it is only through the very topmost arch that a boat can glide into this cavern2 the arch itself spreads downward through the water so that all the light is transmitted from beneath and colored by the sea4 ,outside the magic world of pantomime there is nothing to equal these effects of blue and silver4444 ,numberless are the caves at ,capri4 ,the so-called ,green ,grotto has the beauty of moss agate in its liquid floor2 the ,red ,grotto shows a warmer chord of color2 and where there is no other charm to notice1 endless beauty may be found in the play of sunlight upon roofs of limestone1 tinted with yellow1 orange1 and pale pink1 mossed over1 hung with fern1 and catching tones of blue or green from the still deeps beneath4444 ,after a day upon the water it is pleasant to rest at sunset in the loggia above the sea4 ,the ,bay of ,naples stretches far and wide in front1 beautiful by reason of the long fine line descending from ,vesuvius1 dipping almost to a level1 and then gliding up to join the highlands of the north4 ,now sun and moon begin to mingle3 waning and waxing splendors4 ,the cliffs above our heads are still blushing like the heart of some tea-rose2 when lo1 the touch of the huntress is laid upon those eastern pinnacles1 and the horizon glimmers with her rising4 ,was it on such a night that ,ferdinand of ,aragon fled from his capital before the ,french1 with eyes turned ever to the land he loved1 chanting1 as he leaned from his galley's stern1 that melancholy psalm1 ',except the ,lord keep the city1 the watchman waketh but in vain1' and seeing ,naples dwindle to a white blot on the purple shore8 ,the roses of ,capri would form a chapter alone4 ,what walks there are where the air is all fragrance of acacia and rose and orange blossoms6 ,cascades of roses in riotous luxuriance festoon the old gray stone walls2 the pale pink of the early dawn or of a shell by the seashore1 the amber of the ,banskeia rose1 the great golden masses of the ,marchal ,niel1 their faint yellow gleaming against the deep green leaves of myrtle and frond4 ,the intense glowing scarlet of the gladiolus flames from rocks and roadside1 and rosemary and the purple stars of hyacinths garland the ways1 until one feels like journeying only in his singing robes4 ,the deep1 solemn green of stone pines forms canopies under the sapphire skies1 and through their trunks one gazes on the sapphire sea4 ,is ,capri the isle of ,epipsychidion8 ,is there now any one that knows ,what a world of mystery lies deep down in the heart of a rose8 ,one walks among these rose-lined lanes1 hearing in the very air that exquisite lyric by ,louise ,chandler ,moulton3-- ,roses that briefly live1 ,joy is your dower2 ,blest be the ,fates that give ,one perfect hour4 ,and1 though too soon you die1 ,in your dust glows ,something the passer-by ,knows was a ,rose4 ,monte ,cassino is one of the most interesting inland points in ,southern ,italy1--the monastery lying on the crest of a hill nearly two thousand feet above the sea4 ,dante alludes to this in his ,paradiso 7,,xxii1 ,,xxxvii71 and in the prose translation made by that eminent ,dantean scholar1 ,professor ,charles ,eliot ,norton1 this assurance of ,beatrice to ,dante is thus rendered3-- ,that mountain on whose slope ,cassino is1 was of old frequented on its summit by the deluded and ill-disposed people1 and ,i am he who first carried up thither the name of ,him who brought to earth the truth which so high exalts us2 and such grace shone upon me that ,i drew away the surrounding villages from the impious worship which seduced the world4 ,those other fires were all contemplative men1 kindled by that heat which brings to birth holy flowers and fruits4 ,here is ,macarius1 here is ,romuald1 here are my brothers1 who within the cloisters fixed their feet1 and held a steadfast heart4 ,and ,i to him1 ',the affection which thou displayest in speaking with me1 and the good semblance which ,i see and note in all your ardors1 have so expanded my confidence as the sun does the rose1 when she becomes open so much as she has power to be4 ,therefore ,i pray thee1 and do thou1 father1 assure me if ,i have power to receive so much grace1 that ,i may see thee with uncovered shape4' ,whereon he1 ',brother1 thy high desire shall be fulfilled in the last sphere1 where are fulfilled all others and my own4 ,there perfect1 mature1 and whole is every desire2 in that alone is every part there where it always was3 for it is not in space1 and hath not poles2 and our stairway reaches up to it1 wherefore thus from thy sight it conceals itself4 ,far up as there the patriarch ,jacob saw it stretch its topmost part when it appeared to him so laden with ,angels4 ,but now no one lifts his feet from earth to ascend it2 and my rule is remaining as waste of paper4 ,the walls1 which used to be an abbey1 have become caves2 and the cowls are sacks full of bad meal4 ,but heavy usury is not gathered in so greatly against the pleasure of ,god1 as that fruit which makes the heart of monks so foolish4 ,for whatsoever the ,church guards is all for the folk that ask it in ,god's name1 not for one's kindred1 or for another more vile4 ,the flesh of mortals is so soft that a good beginning suffices not below from the springing of the oak to the forming of the acorn4 ,peter began without gold and without silver1 and ,i with prayers and with fasting1 and ,francis in humility his convent2 and if thou lookest at the source of each1 and then lookest again whither it has run1 thou wilt see dark made of the white4 ,truly1 ,jordan turned back1 and the sea fleeing when ,god willed1 were more marvellous to behold than succor here4 ,dante adds that the company like a whirlwind gathered itself upward1 and that the sweet lady urged me behind them1 with only a sign1 up over that stairway2 so did her virtue overcome my nature4 ,but never here below1 where one mounts and descends naturally1 was there motion so rapid that it could be compared unto my wing4 ,the time was when ,dante and ,beatrice met1 and he was standing as one who within himself represses the point of his desire1 and attempts not to ask1 he so fears the too-much4 ,and then he heard3 ,if thou couldst see1 as ,i do1 the charity which burns among us thy thoughts would be expressed4 ,but that thou through waiting mayst not delay thy high end1 ,i will make answer to thee1 even to the thought concerning which thou art so regardful4 ,the vast monastery of ,monte ,cassino1 lying on the crest of a hill nearly two thousand feet above the sea1 has one of the most magnificent locations in all ,italy4 ,this monastery was founded 7in #ebi ,a4,d47 by ,st4 ,benedict1 on the site of an ancient temple to ,apollo4 ,dante alludes to this also in the ,paradiso 7,canto ,,xx1 #aa74 ,as seen from below this monastery has the appearance of a vast castle1 or fortress4 ,its location is one of the most magnificent in all ,italy4 ,the old entrance was a curious passage cut through solid rock and it is still used for princes and cardinals--no lesser dignitaries being allowed to pass through it--and within the past thirty years a new entrance has been constructed4 ,in the passageway of the medival entrance ,st4 ,benedict is said to have had his cell1 and of recent years the ,german ,benedictines1 believing they had located the original cell1 had it located1 restored1 and decorated with ,egyptian frescoes4 ,several of the courts of this convent are connected by beautiful arcades with lofty arches1 and adorned with statues1 among which are those of ,st4 ,benedict and his sister1 ,st4 ,scholastica4 ,still farther up the hill1 upon the monastery1 stands the church which is built on the site of the ancient one that was erected by ,st4 ,benedict himself--this present edifice dating back to #afcg4 ,above the portals there is a long inscription in ,latin relating the history of the monastery and the church4 ,these portals are solid bronze1 beautifully carved1 with inlaid tablets of silver on which are inscribed a list of all the treasures of the abbey in the year #ajjf4 ,the church is very rich in interior decoration of mosaics1 rare marbles1 and wonderful monumental memorials4 ,either side of the high altar are monuments to the ,prince of ,mignano 7,guidone ,fieramosca7 and also to ,piero de ,medico4 ,both ,st4 ,benedict and his sister1 ,st4 ,scholastica1 are entombed under the high altar1 which is one of the most elaborately sculptured in all the churches of ,italy4 ,among the pictorial decorations of this church are a series of fresco paintings by ,luca ,giordano1 painted in the seventeenth century1 representing the miracles wrought by ,st4 ,benedict4 ,in the refectory is the ,miracle of the ,loaves1 by ,bassano2 and in the chapel below are paintings by ,mazzaroppi and ,marco da ,siena4 ,nothing can exceed the richness and beauty of the carvings of the choir stalls4 ,these were executed in the seventeenth century by ,coliccio4 ,the library of this monastery is renowned all over ,europe--indeed1 it is famous all over the world--for its preservation of ancient manuscripts done by the monks4 ,these are carefully treasured in the archives4 ,among them is the record of a vision that came to the monk ,alferic1 in the twelfth century1 on which it is believed that ,dante founded his immortal ,divina ,commedia2 there is also a fourteenth-century edition of ,dante with margined notes2 and the ,commentary of ,origen 7on the ,epistle to the ,romans71 dating back to the sixteenth century2 there is the complete series of ,papal bulls that were sent to the monastery of ,monte ,cassino from the eleventh century to the present time1 many of them being richly illuminated and decorated with curiously elaborate seals4 ,there is an autograph letter of the ,sultan ,mohammed ,,ii to ,pope ,nicholas ,,iv1 with the ,pope's reply1--the theme of the correspondence being the ,pope's threat of war4 ,the imperial ,mohammed seems to have been in terror of this1 and in his epistle he expresses his willingness1 and1 indeed1 his intention1 to be converted as soon as he shall visit ,rome6 ,apparently the ,holy ,father of that day laid little stress on the sincerity of this offer on the part of the ,sultan4 ,here1 too1 is a wonderful correspondence between ,don ,erasmo ,gattola1 the historian of the abbey1 and a great number of the celebrated men of his time2 and there are hundreds of other letters1 manuscripts1 and documents relating to kings1 nobles1 emperors1 and many of the nobility of the age4 ,in this monastery there is a most interesting collection of relics1 in bronze1 silver1 gold1 and rosso antico4 ,the library proper contains some eleven thousand volumes1 dating back to the very dawn of the discovery of the art of printing4 ,mr4 ,longfellow1 whose poet's pen has pictured so many of the ,italian landscapes and ancient monuments1 thus set ,monte ,cassino to music1 picturing the entire landscape of the ,terra di ,lavoro region3-- ,the ,land of ,labor and the ,land of ,rest1 ,where medival towns are white on all ,the hillsides1 and where every mountain's crest ,is an ,etrurian or a ,roman wall4 99 99 99 99 99 ,there is ,aquinum1 the old ,volscian town1 ,where ,juvenal was born1 whose lurid light ,still hovers o'er his birthplace like the crown ,of splendor seen o'er cities in the night4 ,doubled the splendor is1 that in its streets ,the ,angelic ,doctor as a school-boy played1 ,and dreamed perhaps the dreams that he repeats ,in ponderous folios for scholastics made4 ,and there1 uplifted1 like a passing cloud ,that pauses on a mountain summit high1 ,monte ,cassino's convent rears its proud ,and venerable walls against the sky4 ,well ,i remember how on foot ,i climbed ,the stony pathway leading to its gate2 ,above1 the convent bells for vespers chimed1 ,below1 the darkening town grew desolate4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the silence of the place was like a sleep1 ,so full of rest it seemed2 each passing tread ,was a reverberation from the deep ,recesses of the ages that are dead4 ,for1 more than thirteen centuries ago1 ,benedict fleeing from the gates of ,rome1 ,a youth disgusted with its vice and woe1 ,sought in these mountain solitudes a home4 ,he founded here his ,convent and his ,rule ,of prayer and work1 and counted work as prayer2 ,the pen became a clarion1 and his school ,flamed like a beacon in the midnight air4 99 99 99 99 99 ,from the high window1 ,i beheld the scene ,on which ,saint ,benedict so oft had gazed1-- ,the mountains and the valley in the sheen ,of the bright sun1--and stood as one amazed4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the conflict of the ,present and the ,past1 ,the ideal and the actual in our life1 ,as on a field of battle held me fast1 ,where this world and the next world were at strife4 ,the monastery of ,monte ,cassino entertains1 as its guests1 for dinner or for a night1 all gentlemen who visit it2 but there is an alms box on the ancient gate into which the guest is supposed to place whatever contribution he pleases for the poor of the place4 ,the ,italian government1 in #ahff1 declared this monastery to be a ,monumento ,nazionale1 and it is now a famous ecclesiastical school with some two hundred students and a resplendent faculty of fifty learned monks under the direction of the ,abbot4 ,some of the most celebrated prelates in ,europe have been educated at ,monte ,cassino4 ,quite near ,monte ,cassino1 as ,longfellow depicts in his lines1 is ,monte ,aquino1 a picturesque hillside where the ,doctor ,angelicus1 ,thomas ,aquinas1 was born 7in #abbd71 the son of ,count ,landulf1 in the ,castel ,roccasecca4 ,he was educated in the monastery1 and one finds himself recalling here these lines of ,thomas ,william ,parsons1 entitled ,turning from ,darwin to ,thomas ,aquinas3-- ,unless in thought with thee ,i often live1 ,angelic doctor6 life seems poor to me4 ,what are these bounties1 if they only be ,such boon as farmers to their servants give8 ,that ,i am fed1 and that mine oxen thrive1 ,that my lambs fatten1 that mine hours are free-- ,these ask my nightly thanks on bended knee2 ,and ,i do thank ,him who hath blest my hive1 ,and made content my herd1 my flock1 my bee4 ,but1 ,father6 nobler things ,i ask from ,thee4 ,fishes have sunshine1 worms have everything6 ,are we but apes8 ,oh6 give me1 ,god1 to know ,i am death's master2 not a scaffolding1 ,but a true temple where ,christ's word could grow4 ,it was at ,aquinum1 too1 at the foot of ,monte ,aquino1 ,juvenal was born4 ,near the peaks of ,monte ,cassino and ,monte ,aquino is that of ,monte ,cairo1 five thousand five hundred feet high1 from whose summit one of the finest views of all southern ,europe is attained4 ,the ,gulf of ,gaeta1 the valley of ,san ,germano1 the wild and romantic mountain region of the ,abruzzi and a view1 too1 of the blue sea are in the panorama1 bathed in the opalescent1 gleaming lights that often invest the ,italian landscape with jewelled splendor4 ,i ask myself1 ,is this a dream8 ,will it all vanish into air8 ,is there a land of such supreme ,and perfect beauty1 anywhere8 ,it might have been in this pictured dream-region that ,hercules came to rest4 ,when ,heracles1 the twelve great labors done1 ,to ,calpe came1 and there his journey stayed1 ,he raised two pillars toward the evening sun1 ,and carved them by a goddess' subtle aid4 ,upon their shafts were sacred legends traced1 ,and round the twain a serpent cincture placed3 ',t was at this bound the primal world stood still1 ,and of ,atlantis dreamed1 with baffled will4 ,but still in unmeasured space1 still beyond and afar and unattained1 still lost in the unpenetrated realms of the poet's fancy1-- ,atlantis lies beyond the pillars yet6 ,here ,ischia smiles ,o'er liquid miles4 99 99 99 99 99 ,high o'er the sea-surge and the sands1 ,like a great galleon wrecked and cast ,ashore by storms1 thy ,castle stands ,a mouldering landmark of the ,past4 ,upon its terrace-walk1 ,i see ,a phantom gliding to and fro2 ,it is ,colonna1--it is she ,who lived and loved so long ago4 ,,longfellow4 ,we are the only two that1 face to face1 ,do know each other1 as ,god doth know us both4 --,o fearless friendship1 that held nothing back6 ,o absolute trust1 that yielded every key1 ,and flung each curtain up1 and drew me on ,to enter the white temple of thy soul1 ,so vast1 so cold1 so waste6--and give thee sense ,of living warmth1 of throbbing tenderness1 ,of soft dependencies6 ,o faith that made ,thee free to seek the spot where my dead hopes ,have sepulture1 and read above the crypt ,deep graven1 the tearful legend of my life6 ,there1 gloomed with the memorials of my past1 ,thou once for all didst learn what man accepts ,lothly--7how should he else87--that never woman1 ,fashioned a woman1--heart1 brain1 body1 soul1-- ,ever twice loved4 ,vittoria ,colonna to ,michael ,angelo4 ,,margaret ,j4 ,,preston4 ,,iv ,a ,,page ,,de ,,conti ,,from ,,ischia ,unto my buried lord ,i give myself4 99 99 99 99 99 ,michael ,angelo6 ,a man that all men honor1 and the model ,that all should follow2 one who works and prays1 ,for work is prayer1 and consecrates his life ,to the sublime ideal of his art ,till art and life are one4 ,,longfellow1 from ,michael ,angelo2 ,a ,fragment4 ,in that poetic sail along the ,italian coast between ,naples and ,genoa the voyager feels that it is ,on no earthly sea with transient roar that his bark is floating2 that ,unto no earthly airs he trims his sail1 as he flits along this coast when violet waves dash against a brilliant background of sky4 ,ischia reveals herself through the blue1 transparent air1 gleaming with opalescent lights1 quivering1 fading and flaming again as the afterglow in the east rivals in its coloring the sunset splendors of the west4 ,is there in the air a faint1 lingering echo of the chant d'amour of sirens on the rocky shores8 ,is ,parthenope still to be descried8 ,gazing upon ,ischia there is a rush of romantic impressions as if one were transported into ideal regions of song1 before this impression begins to resolve itself into definite remembrance of fact and incident4 ,surely some exquisite associations in the past had enchanted this island in memory and invested it with the magic light that never was on sea or land4 ,traditions of beauty2 of the lives of scholar and savant and princes of the church2 of a court of nobility enriched and adorned by prelate and by poet2 traditions1 too1 of a woman's consecration to an immortal love and the solace of grief by poetic genius and exalted friendships1--all these seem to cling about ,ischia in a vague1 atmospheric way till memory1 still groping backward in the twilight of the richly historic past1 suddenly crystallized into recognition that it was ,ischia which was the home of ,vittoria ,colonna1 the greatest woman poet of the ,italian ,renaissance4 ,lines1 long since read1 arose like an incantation2 and like bars of music1 each note of which vibrated in the air1 came this fragment of one of her songs3-- ,if in these rude and artless songs of mine ,i never take the file in hand1 nor try ,with curious care and nice1 fastidious eye ,to deck and polish each uncultured line1 ',t is that it makes small merit of my name ,to merit praise4444 99 99 99 99 99 ,but it must be that heaven's own gracious gift ,which1 with its breath1 divine1 inspires my soul1 ,strikes forth these sparks unbidden by my will4 ,illustration3 ,,ischia1 ,,from ,,the ,,sea ,page #bhb ,vittoria ,colonna was called the most beautiful and gifted woman of her time in all ,italy4 ,her life of nearly sixty years 7#adij-aedg7 lay entirely in that period when the apathy of ten centuries was broken1 when the darkness fled before the dawning of a glorious day4 ,new methods of thought1 revised taste in poetry1 new discoveries of science1 a nobler progress in criticism1 great discoveries1 and a lofty and unprecedented freedom of conviction marked the century between #adej and #aeej1 stamping it as the marvellous time which we know as the ,renaissance1 that solemn fifteenth century which can hardly be studied too much1 not merely for its positive results in the things of the intellect and the imagination1 its concrete works of art1 its special and prominent personalities1 with their profound sthetic charm1 but for its general spirit and character1 for the ethical qualities of which it is a consummate type4 ,it was peculiarly fitting that ,italy should take the initiative in inaugurating this vita nuova4 ,italy had a language and literature and art4 ,dante had delivered his solemn message and ,petrarca his impassioned song4 ,boccaccio had taught the gospel of gladness4 ,who shall analyze the secret springs of their inspiration and reveal to what degree ,ovid and ,horace and ,virgil influenced the later literature8 ,a new solar system was established by ,copernicus4 ,america was discovered4 ,science entered on her definite and ceaseless progress1 and religion and art became significant forces in human life4 ,printing had been invented and the compass discovered4 ,into this time of new forces1 when everything was throbbing and pulsating with life1 was ,vittoria ,colonna born into social prestige and splendor4 ,her father1 ,fabrizio ,colonna1 and her mother1 ,agnesina di ,montefeltro1 a daughter of the ,duke of ,urbino1 were then domiciled in the castle of ,marino1 on the ,lago d',albano1 a magnificent palace some twelve miles from ,rome1 in which the ,duke d',amalfi 7the father of ,fabrizio ,colonna7 lived1 and which is still standing1 filled with memorials and relics of historic interest4 ,urbino1 the seat of the ,montefeltro1 is renowned as having been the birthplace of ,raphael1 who ,only drank the precious wine of youth1 but who 444 lives immortal in the hearts of men1 444 and the world is fairer ,that he lived in it4 ,the ,colonna date back to the eleventh century1 and they gave many princes and cardinals to the country4 ,at the close of the thirteenth century they were arrayed against ,boniface ,,viii1 the ,pope1 who accused them of crime1 while they disputed the validity of his election to the holy office4 ,in retaliation1 the ,pope excommunicated the entire family1 anathematized them as heretics and declared their estates forfeited to the church4 ,the ,colonna1 far from being intimidated1 commanded three hundred armed horsemen1 attacked the papal palace1 which they plundered1 and made him a prisoner1--an incident referred to by ,dante in the ,inferno4 ,the ,colonna and the ,orsini were also at warfare1 and when a member of the former family was elevated to the papacy under the name of ,martin ,v1 they despoiled property of the ,orsini4 ,gay excursionists to-day1 who fly over the ,campagna in their twentieth-century touring cars to the lovely towns of the ,alban hills1 may look down from ,castel ,gandolfo on the gloomy1 medival little town of ,marino1 part way up a steep hillside1 whose summit is crowned by the castle once belonging to the ,colonna and in which ,vittoria passed her early childhood4 ,nothing1 in his ,roba di ,roma1 says ,story1 can be more rich and varied than this magnificent amphitheatre of the ,campagna of ,rome1 444 sometimes drear1 mysterious1 and melancholy in desolate stretches2 sometimes rolling like an inland sea whose waves have suddenly become green with grass1 golden with grain1 and gracious with myriads of wild flowers1 where scarlet poppies blaze and pink daisies cover vast meadows and vines shroud the picturesque ruins of antique villas1 aqueducts1 and tombs1 or drop from medival towers and fortresses4 ,flying in the swift motor-car of the time toward the ,alban hills1 ,marino may be easily reached in less than an hour from the ,porta ,san ,giovanni1 and in the near distance ,monte ,albani1 rising into the cone of ,monte ,cavi1 is a picture before the eye1 while on the lower slopes gleam the white villages of ,albani1 ,marino1 ,castel ,gandolfo1 and ,frascati1 with the campanile of a cathedral1 a fortress-like ruin1 or gardens and olive orchards clambering up the heights4 ,the ,papal town of ,rocca di ,papa crowns one summit where once ,tarquin's temple to ,jupiter stood and on whose ruins now gleam afar in the ,italian sunshine the white walls of the ,passionist convent of ,monte ,cavi1 built by ,cardinal ,york4 ,from this height ,juno gazed upon the great conflict of contending armies1 if ,virgil's topography be entitled to authority4 ,and here1 through a defile in the hills1 one may look toward ,naples1 and then rising abruptly with sheer limestone cliffs and crevasses1 where transparent purple shadows sleep all day long1 towers the grand range of the ,sabine mountains1 whose lofty peaks surround the ,campagna to the east and north like a curved amphitheatre4444 ,again1 skirting the ,pontine ,marshes on the east1 are the ,volscian mountains1 closing up the ,campagna at ,terracina1 where they overhang the road and affront the sea with their great barrier4 ,following along the ,sabine hills1 you will see at intervals the towns of ,palestrina and ,tivoli1 where the ,anio tumbles in foam1 and other little mountain towns nestled here and there among the soft airy hollows1 or perched on the cliffs4 ,in this landscape there are three ruined villages--,colonna1 ,gallicano1 and ,zagarda--perched on their respective hills4 ,the castle of the ,colonna family is now restored and modernized to a degree that leaves little trace of that former stately grandeur which is transmuted into modern convenience and comfort4 ,in this scene of romantic beauty1 with the vista of beauty almost incomparable in any inland view in ,italy1 ,vittoria passed her infancy1 until1 at the age of four1 her childhood was transplanted to fairy ,ischia4 ,in all this chain of ,alban towns1 including ,marino1 ,viterbo1 ,ariccia1 and ,rocca di ,papa1 the great family of the ,colonna owned extensive estates1 each crowning some height1 while the defiles between were filled1 then as now1 with the foam and blossom of riotous greenery4 ,then1 as now1 across the mystic ,campagna1 the dome of ,st4 ,peter's silhouetted itself against a golden background of western sky4 ,one needs not to have had privileged access to the sibylline leaves of the ,cuman soothsayer to recognize that ,vittoria ,colonna was born under the star of destiny4 ,her horoscope seemed to be inextricably entwined with that of ,italy2 and the events which created and determined the conditions of her life and its panoramic series of circumstances were the events of ,italy and of ,europe as well--in political aspects and in the influence on general progress1 brought to bear by strong and prominent individualities whose gifts1 genius1 or force dominated the movements of the day4 ,to her father's change of political allegiance1 from the ,french to the ,spanish side1 in the war raging between those countries in #adid1 ,vittoria owed all her life in ,ischia2 and her marriage1 and all that resulted from her becoming a member of the d',avalos family1 was due to this espousal of a new political faith on the part of ,fabrizio ,colonna4 ,to the fact that in #adbe the war with ,france again broke out was due the loss of her husband and the conditions that consecrated her life to poetry1 to learning1 and that made possible the beautiful and sympathetic friendship between herself and ,michael ,angelo4 ,her life presents the most forcible illustration of the overruling power on human life and destiny4 ,it was the political change of faith on the part of ,fabrizio ,colonna that initiated an unforeseen and undreamed-of drama of life for his infant daughter1 the first act of which included the command of the ,king of ,naples that the little ,vittoria should be betrothed to ,francesco d',avalos1 the son of ,alphonso1 ,marchese di ,pescara1 of ,ischia1 one of the nobles who stood nearest to the king in those troubled days4 ,francesco was born in the castle on ,ischia in #adhi1 and was one year older than ,vittoria4 ,fabrizio exchanged his castle at ,marino for one in ,naples1 which city made him the ,grand ,constable4 ,the d',avalos castle in ,ischia had at this time for its chatelaine the ,duchessa di ,francavilla1 who is said by some authorities to have been the elder sister and by others to have been the aunt of ,francesco4 ,donna ,constanza d',avalos1 later the ,duchessa di ,francavilla1 had been made the ,castellana of the island for her courage in refusing to capitulate to the ,french troops when1 after the death of her father1 she was left in sole charge of the d',avalos estates1 and ,emperor ,charles ,v elevated her rank to that of ,principessa4 ,the ,duchessa was one of the most remarkable women of the day4 ,she was a classical scholar1 and herself a writer1 the author of a book entitled ,degli ,infortuni e ,travagli del ,mondo4 ,to the care of this learned and brilliant woman1 a great lady in the social life of the time1 the care of the little ,vittoria was committed1 and she studied and played and grew up with ,francesco1 her future husband4 ,the d',avalos family ranked among the highest nobility of the ,court of ,naples1 and the ,principessa reigned as a queen of letters and society in her island kingdom4 ,it was under her care that the two children1 ,francesco and ,vittoria1 pursued their studies together and acquired every grace of scholarship and accomplishment of society4 ,the circles which the ,duchessa drew around her included many gentlewomen from ,sicily and from ,naples2 and the life at ,castel d',ischia was synonymous with everything glorious and elegant1 recorded ,visconti1 and its fame has been immortalized4 ,although ,francesco 7the future ,marchese di ,pescara7 was born in ,italian dominions1 yet the d',avalos family were of ,spanish ancestry and traditions4 ,the musical ,castilian was the language of the household4 ,the race ideals of ,spain--the poetic1 the impassioned1 the joy in color and movement--pervaded the very atmosphere of ,castel d',ischia4 ,vittoria's earliest girlhood revealed her exceptional beauty and charm1 and gave evidence that the gods loved her and had dowered her with their immortal gifts and genius1 which flowered1 under the sympathetic guidance and stimulus of such a woman as the ,principessa 7the ,duchessa di ,francavilla7 and the society she drew around her1 as the orange and the myrtle flower under the southern sunshine4 ,the literature of biography presents no chapter that can rival this in the idyllic beauty of the lives of those two children on the lovely island in the violet sea4 ,the perpetual conflicts that were waged in both ,rome and ,naples awakened no echoes in this romantic and isolated spot1 whose atmosphere was that of the peace of scholarly pursuits and lofty thought that is found where the arts and the muses hold their sway4 ,but in #adif came the tragedy of the death of the young king and queen of ,naples2 four years later ,rome celebrated a jubilee in which ,naples took part1 sending a splendid procession as escort to the famous ,madonna that was carried from ,naples to ,rome and back1 working miracles1 it is said1 on both journeys1 as a ,madonna should4 ,a year later ,frederick of ,naples and the queen1 and two of the king's sisters1--ladies of high nobility1--came as guests to the castle in ,ischia1--royal exiles seeking shelter4 ,five years later the new king and queen were welcomed with gorgeous parade and acclamation4 ,a pier was thrown out over one hundred feet into the sea2 on this a tent of gold was erected1 and all the nobility of ,naples1 in the richest costumes of velvet and jewels1 thronged to meet the royal guests4 ,over the sunlit ,bay of ,naples resounded the thunder of the guns in military salute and the cheers of the people4 ,among the distinguished nobility present1 ,costanza1 ,duchessa and ,principessa di ,francavilla1 was a marked figure with her young charge1 ,vittoria ,colonna1 at her side4 ,she made a deep reverence and kissed the hand of the king as he passed1 as did many of the ladies of highest rank1 and at the fte of that evening ,vittoria's beauty charmed all eyes4 ,although it was well understood that she had been betrothed since childhood to ,francesco d',avalos1 yet many princes and nobles sued for her hand and were refused by her father1 who was at this time established magnificently in ,naples4 ,pope ,julius ,,ii refused the pleadings of two dukes1 both of whom wished to seek ,vittoria in marriage1 as he considered the love of the young girl for her betrothed a matter to be held sacred4 ,three years later1 when ,vittoria was nineteen and ,francesco twenty1 their marriage was celebrated in ,castel d',ischia with the richest state and beauty of ceremonial observance4 ,a few months previous to this time she had returned to her father's country home in the family castle at ,marino1 whither both ,fabrizio and ,agnese ,colonna accompanied their daughter4 ,when the time appointed for her bridal came1 ,vittoria was escorted to ,ischia by princes1 and dukes1 and ladies of honor1 and the marriage gifts to the bride included a chain of rubies1 diamonds1 and emeralds1 linked with gold2 a writing desk of solid gold2 wonderful bracelets2 costumes of velvets1 and brocades and rich embroideries1 and a portion of fourteen thousand ducats4 ,illustration3 ,,la ,,rocca1 ,,ischia ,page #bid ,the noted pair had not their equals in ,italy at this time1 writes a contemporary historian4 ,their life in ,naples was all magnificence and festivity1 and when they desired to exchange it for the country they left ,naples for ,pietralba on ,monte ,emo1 where they assembled pleasant parties of ladies and gentlemen4 ,much time was passed in their beloved ,ischia1 where the ,duchessa1 as ,castellana1 was obliged to receive much company4 ,and here were found the flower of chivalry and the men most noted in letters4444 ,they listened to the poets ,sanazzaro1 il ,rota1 and ,bernardo ,tasso2 or they heard the admirable discourses on letters of ,musefico1 il ,giovio1 and il ,minturno4 ,it was an agreeable school for the youthful minds of ,vittoria and ,pescara4 ,thus passed in great happiness the first three years of their married life4 ,it is not strange that to the young ,marchesa di ,pescara1 ,ischia had become an enchanted island4 ,the scene of her happy childhood1 of her studies1 of her first efforts in lyric art1 of her stately and resplendent bridal2 the home1 too1 of her early married life1--it is little wonder that in after years she translated into song its scenic loveliness and the thoughts and visions it had inspired4 ,again1 the ever-recurring war came on1 and in the spring of #aeab the ,king of ,naples conferred the doubtful privilege on the ,marchesa di ,pescara of serving as the royal representative4 ,it is said that ,vittoria personally superintended her young husband's outfit1--in horses1 attendants1 armor1 and other details belonging to a gentleman of rank4 ,her father and her uncle1 ,prospero ,colonna1 were also among the military who led ,italian troops4 ,in the terrible battle of ,ravenna 7which was fought on the ,easter ,sunday1 ,april #aa1 of #aeab71 ,pescara was wounded1 taken prisoner1 and carried to the fortress of ,porta ,gobbia4 ,a messenger was sent to ,ischia1 where ,vittoria lived between her books and the orange groves2 and the twentieth-century cynic of #aijg will smile at the form in which she expressed her sorrow1--that of a poem of some forty stanzas1 which began3-- ,eccelso ,mio ,signor6 ,questa ti scrivo ,per te narrar tra quante dubbie voglie1 ,fra quanti aspri martir1 dogliosa io vivo6 ,a translation of this lyric epistle1 made in prose1 gives it more fully as follows3-- ,eccelso ,mio ,signor3 ,i write this to thee to tell thee amid what bitter anxieties ,i live4444 ,i believed that so many prayers and tears1 and love without measure1 would not have been displeasing to ,god4444 ,thy great valor has shone as in a ,hector or an ,achilles4 ,in this letter ,vittoria tells him that when the messenger reached her1 she was lying on a point of the island 7,i1 in the body1 my mind always with thee1 she says71 and that the whole atmosphere had been to her that day like a cavern of black fog1 and that the marine gods seemed to say to ,ischia1 ',to-day1 ,vittoria1 thou shalt hear of disgrace from the confines3 thou now in health and honor1 thou shalt be turned to grief2 but thy father and husband are saved1 though taken prisoners4' ,this presentiment she related to her husband's aunt1 the ,duchessa ,francavilla1 the ,castellana of ,ischia1 who begged her not to think of it and said1 ,it would be strange for such a force to be conquered4 ,just after this conversation between the youthful ,marchesa and the ,duchessa1 the messenger arrived4 ,the psychic science of to-day would see in this occurrence a striking instance of telepathy4 ,in her poetic epistle to her husband1 ,vittoria also says3-- ,a wife ought to follow her husband at home and abroad2 if he suffers trouble1 she suffers2 if he is happy1 she is2 if he dies1 she dies4 ,what happens to one happens to both2 equals in life1 they are equals in death4 ,his fate is her fate4 ,these letters--in keeping with the times--were1 on both sides1 expressed in literary rather than in personal form4 ,pescara1 from his captivity1 wrote to her a ,dialogue on ,love1--a manuscript for which ,visconti notes that he has searched in vain4 ,the ,marchesa di ,pescara went from ,ischia to ,naples1 after learning of the misfortunes that had overtaken her husband1 in order that she might be able constantly to receive direct communication regarding his fate4 ,a few months later the ,marchese returned1 making the day brilliant with joy to ,vittoria1 but after a year of happiness he was again called to service1 and the ,marchesa returned to her beloved ,ischia4 ,she gave herself to the study of the ancient classics2 she wrote poems1 and considered no time of value but so spent1 says ,rota4 ,the age was one of a general revival of learning4 ,royalty1 the ,pope1 the princes and nobility were all giving themselves with ardor to this higher culture4 ,under ,dante the ,italian language assumed new perfection4 ,this period was to ,vittoria one of intense stimulus1 and it must have had a formative influence on her gifts and her mental power4 ,having no children1 she adopted a young cousin of her husband1 the ,marchese del ,vasto1 to educate and to be the heir of their estates4 ,in #aeae1 ,pescara again returned and the entire island of ,ischia was aflame with bonfires1 and the borders of the beautiful shore bright and warm with lights1 in honor of the event4 ,of this event1 ,vittoria wrote3-- 444 ,my beloved returns to us 444 his countenance radiant with piety to ,god1 with deeds born of inward faith4 ,at a magnificent wedding festival in the d',avalos family about this time1 it is recorded that the ,marchesa di ,pescara wore a robe of brocaded crimson velvet1 with large branches of beaten gold wrought on it1 with a headdress of wrought gold and a girdle of beaten gold around her waist4 ,when the coronation of ,charles ,v was to be celebrated at ,aix-la-,chapelle the ,marchese di ,pescara was appointed ambassador to represent the ,house of ,aragon on this brilliant occasion1 when the new emperor was to be invested with the crown and the sceptre of ,charlemagne4 ,charles had decided to journey by sea and to visit ,henry ,,viii on the way1 an arrangement of which ,cardinal ,wolsey was aware1 although he had kept ,henry in ignorance of it1 according to those curious mental processes of his mind where his young monarch was concerned4 ,shakespeare1 in the play of ,king ,henry ,,viii1 describes the meeting of the two kings1 which occurred at ,canterbury1 at a grand jubilee in honor of the shrine of ,thomas ,becket4 ,one historian thus describes this scene3-- ,the two handsome young sovereigns rode into ,canterbury under the same canopy1 the great ,cardinal riding directly in front of them1 and on the right and left were the proud nobles of ,spain and ,england1 among whom was ,pescara4 ,the kings alighted from their horses at the west door of the cathedral and together paid their devotions before that rich shrine blazing with jewels4 ,they humbly knelt on the steps worn by the knees of tens of thousands of pilgrims4 ,on the return to ,naples of the ,marchese di ,pescara he told the story of his regal journey to an assemblage of nobles in the ,church of ,santa ,maria di ,monte ,oliveto1 and he then joined the ,marchesa in ,rome1 where she had gone to visit her family and to pay her devotions to ,leo ,x1 who had just created ,pompeo ,colonna a cardinal4 ,pope ,leo aspired to draw around him a court distinguished for its culture and brilliancy in both art and literature4 ,in this court the ,marchesa di ,pescara shone resplendent4 ,she was at the height of her beauty1 and her charms were sung by the poets of the day1 says a contemporary4 ,a year later ,leo ,x died1 succeeded by ,adrian 7who had been tutor to ,charles ,v71 to the intense and bitter disappointment of ,cardinal ,wolsey1 who had made the widest--and wiliest--efforts to gratify his own ambition of reigning in the ,papal chair4 ,again the war between ,france and ,italy1 that which seemed to be a perpetually smouldering feud1 and the ,marchese di ,pescara1 again summoned to battle1 was wounded at ,pavia4 ,for some time he lay between life and death at ,milan1 and a messenger was sent to beg ,vittoria to come to him4 ,she set out on this journey1 leaving ,naples in great haste2 but on reaching ,viterbo another messenger met her with the tidings of the death of the ,marchese1 which had occurred on ,nov4 #be1 #aebe4 ,overcome with grief1 ,vittoria was carried back to ,rome and for the solace of entire seclusion she sought the cloistered silence of the convent of ,san ,silvestre1 which lay at the foot of the ,monte ,cavallo in ,rome1 almost adjoining the gardens of the ,colonna palace4 ,to the ,marchese di ,pescara1 who had the military rank of general1 was given a funeral of great pomp and splendor in ,milan1 and his body was brought to the famous ,naples church of ,santa ,domenica ,maggiore1 where it was entombed with the princes and nobles of his house4 ,before the death of the ,marchese there had been a political plot to join the ,papal1 ,venetian1 and ,milanese forces and rescue ,italy from the ,emperor's rule1 and the ,pope himself had sent a messenger to ,pescara asking him to unite with the league4 ,the ,marchese1 ,spanish by ancestry and by sympathies1 used this knowledge to frustrate the ,italian designs and to warn ,spain4 ,the ,italian historians have execrated him for this act1 which they regard as that of a traitor4 ,vittoria1 however1 did not take this view apparently1 as in a letter to her husband she wrote3-- ,titles and kingdoms do not add to true honor4444 ,i do not desire to be the wife of a king1 but ,i glory in being the wife of that great general who shows his bravery in war and1 still more1 by magnanimity in peace1 surpasses the greatest kings4 ,the inducement of the throne of ,naples had been held out to ,marchese di ,pescara4 ,he evidently regarded this in the nature of a dishonorable bribe1 and it is this view which the ,marchesa plainly shared4 ,after his death her first impulse was to take the vows of a cloistered nun4 ,the ,pope himself intervened to dissuade her1 and she consented to enter1 only temporarily1 the convent of ,san ,silvestre on the ,monte ,cavallo4 ,in the will of the ,marchese di ,pescara there was a clause directing that anything in his estate unlawfully acquired should be restored to the owner2 and under this1 ,vittoria gave back to the monastery of ,monte ,cassino the ,monte ,san ,magno that had formerly been its property4 ,from the cloistered shades of the convent ,vittoria removed to the family castle of the ,colonna at ,marino1 where1 on the shore of this beautiful lake 7which was the scenery of ,virgil's neid71 she passed some months1 engaged in writing sonnets4 ,of one of these a translation runs in part3-- ,i write solely to assuage my inward grief1 which destroys in my heart the light of this world's sun2 and not to add light to mio bel sole1 to his glorified spirit4 ,it is fit that other tongues should preserve his great name from oblivion4 ,in another1 perhaps her most perfect sonnet1 she beseeches the winds to convey to her beloved the message she sends3-- ,ch'io di lui sempre pensi2 o pianga1 o parli1--,that ,i always think of him1 or weep for him1 or speak of him4 ,again1 a year later1 ,vittoria returned to lovely ,ischia1 which1 as one writer has described1 rises out of the blue billows of the ,mediterranean like giant towers4 ,the immense blocks of stone are heaped one upon another1 in such a supernatural manner as to give a coloring to the legend1 that beneath them1 in those vast volcanic caverns1 dwells the giant ,tifeo4 ,the castle where the ,duchessa ,francavilla and the ,marchesa ,pescara lived is built on a towering mass of rock joined to the island by a causeway4 ,the castle includes the palace1 a church1 and other buildings for the family and their guests and dependants4 ,for some three years the ,marchesa did not again leave ,ischia4 ,in the mean time volumes of her poems were published4 ,she received the acclamation of all the writers of her time4 ,the crown of immortelles1 often laid but on a tomb1 was continually pressed upon her brow4 ,she was the most famous woman of her time4 ,her beauty1 her genius1 her noble majesty of character impressed the contemporary world4 ,her days were filled with correspondence with the most distinguished men of the day4 ,ariosto1 ,castiglione1 ,ludovico ,dolce1 ,cardinal ,bembo1 ,cardinal ,contarini1 and ,paolo ,giovio were among her nearer circle of friends4 ,illustration3 ,,castello ,,di ,,alfonso1 ,,ischia ,page #cjf ,stormy times fell upon ,italy1 in all of which the ,colonna family bore prominent part1 and all of which affected the life of ,vittoria ,colonna in many ways4 ,her biography1 if written with fulness and accuracy1 would be largely a history of the ,italy of that time1 for her life seemed always inseparably united with great events4 ,in the year #aecj 7,clement ,,vii being the ,pope7 a full ,papal pardon had been extended to all the ,colonna1 and their castles and estates had also been restored to them4 ,for years past ,rome had been in a state of conflict4 ,benvenuto ,cellini1 who had watched the terrible scenes from ,castel ,san ,angelo where he was immured1 has described the terrors4 ,the ,eternal ,city1 whose population under ,leo ,x had been #ij1jjj1 was now--in #aecj--reduced to half that number4 ,palaces and temples had been the scenes of riot and destruction1 yet to this very lawlessness of the time the ,roman galleries of the present owe their ancient statues1 which were uncovered by these assaults4 ,the ,coliseum was left in the ruined state in which it is now seen1 and by the sale of the stones taken from it the ,palazzo ,barberini was erected4 ,vittoria1 coming again to ,rome and revisiting its classic greatness1 exclaimed that happy were they who lived in times so full of grandeur2 to which the poet ,molza gallantly replied that they were less happy1 as they had not known her6 ,everywhere was she received with the highest honors4 ,she made a tour1 visiting ,bagni di ,lucca1 ,bologna1 and ,ferrara1 where she was the guest of the ,duca and ,duchessa ,ercole in the ducal palace4 ,the ,duchessa was the ,princesse ,rene1 the daughter of ,louis ,,xii of ,france1 and an ardent friend of ,calvin1 who visited her in ,ferrara4 ,it was to this visit that ,longfellow refers in his poem entitled ,michael ,angelo1 when he pictures ,vittoria as sitting for her portrait to the artist and conversing with her friend ,giulia1 the ,duchess of ,trajetto1 ,michael ,angelo begs them to resume the conversation interrupted by his entrance1 and ,vittoria says3-- ,well1 first1 then1 of ,duke ,ercole1 a man ,cold in his manners1 and reserved and silent1 ,and yet magnificent in all his ways4 ,to which the ,duchessa replies3-- ,how could the daughter of a king of ,france ,wed such a duke8 ,,michael ,,angelo4 ,the men that women marry1 ,and why they marry them1 will always be ,a marvel and a mystery to the world4 ,,vittoria4 ,and then the ,duchess1--how shall ,i describe her1 ,or tell the merits of that happy nature ,which pleases most when least it thinks of pleasing8 ,not beautiful1 perhaps1 in form and feature1 ,yet with an inward beauty1 that shines through ,each look and attitude and word and gesture2 ,a kindly grace of manner and behavior1 ,a something in her presence and her ways ,that makes her beautiful beyond the reach ,of mere external beauty2 and in heart ,so noble and devoted to the truth1 ,and so in sympathy with all who strive ,after the higher life4 ,,julia4 ,she draws me to her ,as much as her ,duke ,ercole repels me4 ,,vittoria4 ,then the devout and honorable women ,that grace her court1 and make it good to be there2 ,francesca ,bucyronia1 the true-hearted1 ,lavinia della ,rovere and the ,orsini1 ,the ,magdalena and the ,cherubina1 ,and ,anne de ,parthenai1 who sings so sweetly2 ,all lovely women1 full of noble thoughts ,and aspirations after noble things4 99 99 99 99 99 ,with these ladies ,was a young girl1 ,olympia ,morata1 ,daughter of ,fulvio1 the learned scholar1 ,famous in all the universities3 ,a marvellous child1 who at the spinning-wheel1 ,and in the daily round of household cares1 ,hath learned both ,greek and ,latin2 and is now ,a favorite of the ,duchess and companion ,of ,princess ,anne4 ,this beautiful young ,sappho ,sometimes recited to us ,grecian odes ,that she had written1 with a voice whose sadness ,thrilled and o'ermastered me1 and made me look ,into the future time1 and ask myself ,what destiny will be hers4 ,,julia4 ,and what poets ,were there to sing you madrigals1 and praise ,olympia's eyes8 444 ,,vittoria4 ,none2 for great ,ariosto is no more4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,julia4 ,he spake of you4 ,,vittoria4 ,and of yourself1 no less1 ,and of our master1 ,michael ,angelo4 ,,michael ,,angelo4 ,of me8 ,,vittoria4 ,have you forgotten that he calls you ,michael1 less man than angel1 and divine8 ,you are ungrateful4 ,,michael ,,angelo4 ,a mere play on words4 ,the ,duca and ,duchessa of ,ferrara invited the most distinguished persons in ,venice and ,bologna and ,lombardy to meet their honored guest4 ,bishop ,ghiberto of ,verona besought her to visit that city4 ,vittoria accepted and was for some time the ,bishop's guest in his palace1 and she took great interest in the historic city4 ,with the ,bishop she visited the ancient ,duomo1 which in #aafj had been restored by ,pope ,urban ,,ii1 and reconsecrated4 ,it was a strong desire of the ,marchesa at this time to make a pilgrimage to ,jerusalem2 but the journey was then so perilous and so long--none too easy1 indeed1 at the present time--that she was dissuaded from the attempt4 ,verona1 to do her honor1 had a medal struck bearing her portrait4 ,the group of great artists--,titian1 ,tintoretto1 and ,giorgione in ,venice2 ,fra ,angelico1 ,bartolommeo1 and others of that day--were creating their wonderful works which ,vittoria must have seen and enjoyed during this tour4 ,raphael1 whose death had occurred in #aebj1 ,vittoria had1 doubtless1 known2 but whether it was she who was the original of the ,muse in his great picture of ,parnassus1 as is alleged1 is not fully established4 ,illustration3 ,,detail ,,from ,,parnassus1 ,,raphael ,,stanze1 ,,palazzo ,,vaticano1 ,,rome ,raphael ,sanzio ,page #caa ,unto my buried lord ,i give myself1 wrote ,vittoria ,colonna in one of the sonnets to her husband's memory1 and this line is the keynote to her entire life1 both as woman and poet4 ,it was no translation of her life into another key1 no reckoning by stars that flashed from different skies1 when there fell upon her the baptism and crown of that immortal friendship with ,michael ,angelo4 ,the ,marchesa di ,pescara returned to ,rome1 from this notable tour in ,northern ,italy1 in #aech4 ,she was received with the honors that her fame inspired4 ,michael ,angelo was then deeply absorbed in painting his ,last ,judgment1 in the ,capella ,sistina4 ,every one in ,rome took an interest in the progress of this magnificent fresco1 from the ,pope 7who continually visited the artist7 down to the humblest of the people4 ,we may imagine ,vittoria standing by the great painter to view his sublime work2 but ,michael ,angelo did not require the patronage1 even of a ,colonna1 and it is possible that ,vittoria herself first sought out his friendship4 ,in the ,casa ,buonarroti1 in ,florence1 hangs that exquisite picture painted of ,italy's greatest woman poet1 in her early youth2 and in its rare and precious collection of manuscripts are the letters of ,vittoria to the poet and sculptor4 ,her influence is said to have produced a great change in his religious views1 influencing his mind to a more lofty and more spiritual comprehension of the divine laws that govern the universe4 ,condivi1 in referring to this chapter in their lives1 has said3-- ,in particular he was most deeply attached to the ,marchesa di ,pescara1 of whose divine spirit he was enamoured1 and he was beloved by her in return with much affection4 ,it was about #aece when ,michael ,angelo left ,florence for ,rome1 appointed by the ,pope1 ,paul ,,iii1 as the chief architect1 sculptor1 and painter of the ,vatican4 ,he was enrolled in the ,pontifical household1 and he at once began his work in the ,sistine ,chapel4 ,mr4 ,symonds believes that he must have been engaged upon the ,last ,judgment through #aecf1 #aecg4 ,the great artist was not without a keen wit of his own as well2 for on receipt of a letter from ,pietro ,aretino1 from ,venice1 in ,september of #aecg1 with praises of his work that ,michael ,angelo deemed extravagant1 he replied that while he rejoiced in ,aretino's commendation1 he also grieved2 as having finished a large part of the fresco1 he said1 ,i cannot realize your conception which is so complete that if the ,day of ,judgment had come and you had been present and seen it with your eyes1 your words could not have described it better4 ,vittoria ,colonna now passed some years between ,rome and ,orvieto1 that picturesque town with its magnificent cathedral rich in medival art1 where she lived in the convent of ,st4 ,paolo d',orvieto4 ,she varied this residence by remaining at times in the convent of ,san ,caterina di ,viterbo1 in that city4 ,in ,rome she had lived both at the convent of ,santa ,anna and also at the ,palazzo ,cesarini1 which was the home of members of the ,colonna family4 ,a sonnet of ,michael ,angelo's written to ,vittoria reflects the feeling that she inspired in him3-- ,da che concetto ha l'arte intera e diva ,la forma e gli atti d'alcun1 poi di quello ,d'umil materia un semplice modello 'l primo parto che da quel deriva4 ,ma nel secondo poi di pietra viva ,s'adempion le promesse del martello2 ,e s rinasce tal concetto e bello1 ,che ma' non chi suo eterno prescriva4 ,simil1 di me model1 nacqu'io da prima2 ,di me model1 per cosa pi perfetta ,da voi rinascer poi1 donna alta e degna4 ,se 'l poco accresce1 'l mio superchio lima ,vostra piet2 qual penitenzia aspetta ,mio fiero ardor1 se mi gastiga e insegna8 ,of this sonnet the following beautiful translation is made by ,john ,addington ,symonds3-- ,when divine ,art conceives a form and face1 ,she bids the craftsman for his first essay ,to shape a simple model in mere clay3 ,this is the earliest birth of ,art's embrace4 ,from the live marble in the second place ,his mallet brings into the light of day ,a thing so beautiful that who can say ,when time shall conquer that immortal grace8 ,thus my own model ,i was born to be-- ,the model of that nobler self1 whereto ,schooled by your pity1 lady1 ,i shall grow4 ,each overplus and each deficiency ,you will make good4 ,what penance then is due ,for my fierce heat1 chastened and taught by you8 ,the correspondence between ,vittoria and ,michael ,angelo was undated1 and all that now remains is fragmentary4 ,the great artist1 writing to his nephew1 ,sionardo1 in #aeed1 says3-- ,messer ,giovan ,francisco ,fattucci asked me about a month ago if ,i possessed any writings of the marchioness4 ,i have a little book bound in parchment which she gave me some ten years ago4 ,it has one hundred and three sonnets1 not counting another forty she afterward sent on paper from ,viterbo4 ,i had these bound into the same book1 and at that time ,i used to lend them about to many persons so that they are all of them now in print4 ,in addition to these poems ,i have many letters which she wrote from ,orvieto and ,viterbo4 ,these1 then1 are the writings ,i possess of the marchioness4 ,in ,rome1 #aede1 ,michael ,angelo thus writes to ,vittoria3-- ,i desired1 lady1 before ,i accepted the things which your ladyship has often expressed the will to give me--,i desired to produce something for you with my own hand in order to be as little as possible unworthy of this kindness4 ,i have now come to recognize that the grace of ,god is not to be bought1 and that to keep it waiting is a grievous sin4 ,therefore ,i acknowledge my error and willingly accept your favors4 ,when ,i possess them--not1 indeed1 because ,i shall have them in my house1 but for that ,i myself shall dwell in them--the place will seem to encircle me with paradise4 ,for which felicity ,i shall remain ever more obliged to your ladyship than ,i am already1 if that is possible4 ,the bearer of this letter will be ,urbino1 who lives in my service4 ,your ladyship may inform him when you would like me to come and see the head you promised to show me4 ,with this letter ,michael ,angelo sent to ,vittoria a sonnet which1 in the translation made by ,john ,addington ,symonds1 is as follows3-- ,seeking at least to be not all unfit ,for thy sublime and boundless courtesy1 ,my lowly thoughts at first were fain to try ,what they could yield for grace so infinite4 ,but now ,i know my unassisted wit ,is all too weak to make me soar so high1 ,for pardon1 lady1 for this fault ,i cry1 ,and wiser still ,i grow remembering it4 ,yea1 will ,i see what folly 't were to think ,that largess dropped from thee like dews from heaven1 ,could e'er be paid by work so frail as mine6 ,to nothingness my art and talent sink2 ,he fails who from his mental stores hath given ,a thousandfold to match one gift divine4 ,as a gift to ,vittoria ,colonna1 ,michael ,angelo designed an episode from the ,passion of our ,lord1 which ,condivi describes as a naked ,christ at the moment when1 taken from the cross1 our ,lord would have fallen at the feet of ,his most holy mother if two angels did not support ,him in their arms4 ,she sits below the cross with a face full of tears and sorrow1 lifting both her widespread arms to heaven while on the stem of the tree above is written this legend3 ',non vi si pensa quanto sangue costa4' ,the cross is of the same kind as that which was carried by the ,white ,friars at the time of the plague of #acdh1 and afterward deposited in the ,church of ,santa ,croce at ,florence4 ,in presenting this cross to her he wrote3-- ,lady ,marchioness1 being myself in ,rome1 ,i thought it hardly fitting to give the ,crucified ,christ to ,messer ,tommaso1 and to make him an intermediary between your ladyship and me1 especially because it has been my earnest wish to perform more for you than for any one ,i ever knew upon the world4 ,but absorbing occupations1 which still engage me1 have prevented my informing your ladyship of this4 ,moreover1 knowing that you know love needs no taskmaster1 and that he who loves doth not sleep1 ,i thought the less of using go-betweens4 ,and though ,i seemed to have forgotten1 ,i was doing what ,i did not talk about1 in order to effect a thing that was not looked for1 my purpose has been spoiled4 ,he sins who faith like this so soon forgets4 ,illustration3 ,,vittoria ,,colonna1 ,,galleria ,,buonarroti1 ,,florence ,page #cab ,in reply ,vittoria ,colonna wrote3-- ,unique ,master ,angelo and my most singular friend3 ,i have received your letter and examined the crucifix which truly hath crucified in my memory every other picture ,i ever saw4 ,nowhere could one find another figure of our ,lord so well executed1 so living1 and so exquisitely finished4 ,i cannot express in words how subtly and marvellously it is designed4 ,wherefore ,i am resolved to take the work as coming from no other hand but yours4444 ,i have examined it minutely in full light and by the lens and mirror1 and never saw anything more perfect4 ,she added3-- 444 ,your works forcibly stimulate the judgment of all who would look at them4 ,my study of them made me speak of adding goodness to things perfect in themselves1 and ,i have seen now that 'all is possible to him who believes4' ,i had the greatest faith in ,god that ,he would bestow upon you supernatural grace for the making of this ,christ4 ,when ,i came to examine it ,i found it so marvellous that it surpasses all my expectations4 ,wherefore1 emboldened by your miracles ,i conceived a great desire for that which ,i now see marvellously accomplished3 ,i mean that the design is in all parts perfect and consummate4 ,i tell you that ,i am pleased that the angel on the right hand is by far the fairer1 since ,michael will place you1 with all angels1 upon the right hand of the ,lord some day4 ,meanwhile ,i do not know how else to serve you1 than by making orisons to this sweet ,christ1 whom you have drawn so well and exquisitely1 and praying you to hold me yours to command as yours in all and for all4 ,again ,vittoria wrote to him3-- ,i beg you to let me have the crucifix a short while in my keeping1 even though it be unfinished4 ,i want to show it to some gentlemen who have come from the most reverend1 the ,cardinal of ,mantua4 ,if you are not working will you not come at your leisure to-day and talk with me8 ,it is an interesting fact to the visitor in the ,rome of to-day that the convent of ,san ,silvestre where ,vittoria ,colonna lived was attached to the church of ,san ,silvestre in ,capite1 now used as the ,english-speaking ,catholic church in the ,eternal ,city4 ,the wing which was formerly the convent 7founded in #acah7 is now converted into the central post office4 ,it was in the sacristy of ,san ,silvestre1 decorated with frescoes by ,domenichino1 that a memorable meeting and conversation took place1 one ,sunday afternoon in those far-away days of nearly five hundred years ago1 between ,michael ,angelo and ,francesco d',ollanda1 a ,spanish miniature artist1--the meeting brought about by ,vittoria ,colonna4 ,the ,spanish artist was a worshipper of ,michael ,angelo1 who awakened such a feeling of love1 that if d',ollanda met him in the street the stars would come out in the sky1 he says1 before ,i would let him go again4 ,this fervent worship was hardly enjoyed by its object1 who avoided the ,spanish enthusiast4 ,one ,sunday1 however1 d',ollanda had gone to ,san ,silvestre finding there ,tolomei1 to whom he was also devoted1 and ,vittoria ,colonna1 both of whom had gone to hear the celebrated ,fra ,ambrosia of ,siena expound the ,epistles of ,st4 ,paul4 ,the ,marchesa di ,pescara observed that she felt sure their ,spanish friend would far rather hear ,michael ,angelo discuss painting than to hear ,fra ,ambrosia on the wisdom of ,st4 ,paul4 ,summoning an attendant she directed him to find ,michael ,angelo and tell him how cool and delightful was the church that morning and to beg him to join ,messer ,tolomei and herself2 but to make no mention of the presence of d',ollanda4 ,her woman's tact and her faultless courtesy were successful in procuring this inestimable privilege for the ,spanish painter4 ,michael ,angelo came1 and began the conversation--which was a monologue1 rather1 as all three of the friends wished only to listen to the master--by defending artists from the charge of eccentric and difficult methods4 ,with somewhat startling candor ,michael ,angelo proceeded3-- ,i dare affirm that any artist who tries to satisfy the better vulgar rather than men of his own craft will never become a superior talent4 ,for my part1 ,i am bound to confess that even his ,holiness wearies and annoys me by begging for too much of my company4 ,i am most anxious to serve him1 444 but ,i think ,i can do so better by studying at home than by dancing attendance on my legs in his reception room4 ,another meeting of this little group was appointed for the next ,sunday in the ,colonna gardens behind the convent1 under the shadow of the laurel trees in the air fragrant with roses and orange blossoms1 where they sat with ,rome spread out like a picture at their feet4 ,that beautiful terrace of the ,colonna gardens1 to which the visitor in ,rome to-day always makes his pilgrimage1 with the ruined statues and the broken marble flights of steps1 is the scene of this meeting of ,vittoria ,colonna1 ,michael ,angelo1 and ,francesco d',ollanda4 ,on this second occasion the sculptor asserted his belief that while all things are worthy the artist's attention1 the real test of his art is in the representation of the human form4 ,he extolled the art of design4 ,he emphasized the essential nature of nobleness in the artist1 and added3-- ,in order to represent in some degree the adored image of our ,lord1 it is not enough that a master should be great and able4 ,i maintain that he must also be a man of good conduct and morals1 if possible a saint1 in order that the ,holy ,ghost may rain down inspiration on his understanding4 ,of the relative degree of swiftness in work ,michael ,angelo said3-- ,we must regard it as a special gift from ,god to be able to do that in a few hours which other men can only perform in many days of labor4 ,but should this rapidity cause a man to fail in his best realization it would be better to proceed slowly4 ,no artist should allow his eagerness to hinder him from the supreme end of art--perfection4 ,mr4 ,longfellow1 in his unfinished dramatic poem1 ,michael ,angelo 7to which reference has already been made71 has one scene laid in the convent chapel of ,san ,silvestre1 in which these passages occur3-- ,,vittoria4 ,here let us rest awhile1 until the crowd ,has left the church4 ,i have already sent ,for ,michael ,angelo to join us here4 ,,messer ,,claudio4 ,after ,fra ,bernardino's wise discourse ,on the ,pauline ,epistles1 certainly ,some words of ,michael ,angelo on ,art ,were not amiss1 to bring us back to earth4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,michael ,,angelo1 at the door4 ,how like a ,saint or ,goddess she appears6 ,diana or ,madonna1 which ,i know not1 ,in attitude and aspect formed to be ,at once the artist's worship and despair6 ,,vittoria4 ,welcome1 ,maestro4 ,we were waiting for you4 ,,michael ,,angelo4 ,i met your messenger upon the way4 ,and hastened hither4 ,,vittoria4 ,it is kind of you ,to come to us1 who linger here like gossips ,wasting the afternoon in idle talk4 ,these are all friends of mine and friends of yours4 ,,michael ,,angelo4 ,if friends of yours1 then are they friends of mine4 ,pardon me1 gentlemen4 ,but when ,i entered ,i saw but the ,marchesa4 ,vittoria tells the master that the ,pope has granted her permission to build a convent1 and ,michael ,angelo replies3-- ,ah1 to build1 to build6 ,that is the noblest art of all the arts4 ,painting and sculpture are but images1 ,are merely shadows cast by outward things ,on stone or canvas1 having in themselves ,no separate existence4 ,architecture1 ,existing in itself1 and not in seeming ,a something it is not1 surpasses them ,as substance shadow4444 444 ,yet he beholds ,far nobler works who looks upon the ruins ,of temples in the ,forum here in ,rome4 ,if ,god should give me power in my old age ,to build for ,him a temple half as grand ,as those were in their glory1 ,i should count ,my age more excellent than youth itself1 ,and all that ,i have hitherto accomplished ,as only vanity4 ,to which ,vittoria responds3-- ,i understand you4 ,art is the gift of ,god1 and must be used ,unto ,his glory4 ,that in art is highest ,which aims at this4 ,the poet1 with his characteristically delicate divination1 has entered into the inner spirit of these two immortal friends4 ,walter ,pater1 writing of ,michael ,angelo1 truly says3-- ,michael ,angelo is always pressing forward from the outward beauty--il bel del fuor che agli occhi piace--to apprehend the unseen beauty2 trascenda nella forma universale--that abstract form of beauty about which the ,platonists reason4 ,and this gives the impression in him of something flitting and unfixed1 of the houseless and complaining spirit1 almost clairvoyant through the frail and yielding flesh4 ,again we find ,pater saying3-- ,though it is quite possible that ,michael ,angelo had seen ,vittoria1 that somewhat shadowy figure1 as early as #aecg1 yet their closer intimacy did not begin till about the year #aedb1 when ,michael ,angelo was nearly seventy years old4 ,vittoria herself1 an ardent ,neo-,catholic1 vowed to perpetual widowhood since the news had reached her1 seventeen years before1 that her husband1 the youthful and princely ,marquess of ,pescara1 lay dead of the wounds he had received in the battle of ,pavia1 was then no longer an object of great passion4 ,in a dialogue written by the painter1 ,francesco d',ollanda1 we catch a glimpse of them together in an empty church at ,rome1 one ,sunday afternoon1 discussing indeed the characteristics of various schools of art1 but still more the writings of ,st4 ,paul1 already following the ways and tasting the sunless pleasures of weary people1 whose hold on outward things is slackening4 ,in a letter still extant he regrets that when he visited her after death he had kissed her hands only4 ,he made1 or set to work to make1 a crucifix for her use1 and two drawings1 perhaps in preparation for it1 are now in ,oxford4444 ,in many ways no sentiment could have been less like ,dante's love for ,beatrice than ,michael ,angelo's for ,vittoria ,colonna4 ,dante's comes in early youth2 ,beatrice is a child1 with the wistful1 ambiguous vision of a child1 with a character still unaccentuated by the influence of outward circumstances1 almost expressionless4 ,vittoria is a woman already weary1 in advanced age1 of grave intellectual qualities4 ,dante's story is a piece of figured work inlaid with lovely incidents4 ,in ,michael ,angelo's poems frost and fire are almost the only images--the refining fire of the goldsmith2 once or twice the phoenix2 ice melting at the fire2 fire struck from the rock which it afterwards consumes4 ,visconti notes that among ,italian poets1 ,vittoria ,colonna was the first to make religion a subject of poetic treatment1 and the first to introduce nature's ministry to man into poetry4 ,rota1 her ,italian biographer1 states that she died in ,february of #aedg1 in the ,palazzo ,cesarini4 ,this palace is in ,genzano1 on ,lago di ,nemi1 and has been one of the ,colonna estates2 but from ,visconti and other authorities it is evident that she died in ,rome1 either in the convent of ,santa ,anna or in the palace of ,cesarini1 the husband of her kinswoman1 ,giulio ,colonna1 which must have been near the convent in ,trastevere1 the old portion of ,rome across the ,tiber4 ,visconti records that on the last evening of her life when ,michael ,angelo was beside her1 she said3 ,i die4 ,help me to repeat my last prayer4 ,i do not now remember the words4 ,he clasped her hand and repeated it to her1 while her own lips moved1 she gazed intently on him1 smiled and passed away4 ,this translation has been made of ,vittoria ,colonna's last prayer3-- ,grant1 ,i beseech ,thee1 ,o ,lord1 that ,i may ever worship ,thee with such humility of mind as becometh my lowliness and such elevation of mind as ,thy loftiness demandeth4444 ,i entreat1 ,o ,most ,holy ,father1 that ,thy most living flame may so urge me forward that1 not being hindered by any mortal imperfections1 ,i may happily and safely again return to ,thee4 ,it is recorded by an authority that her body1 enclosed in a casket of cypress wood1 lined with embroidered velvet1 was placed in the chapel of ,santa ,anna which has since been destroyed4 ,visconti says3 ,she desired1 with ,christian humility1 to be buried in the manner in which the sisters were buried when they died4 ,and1 as ,i suppose1 her body was placed in the common sepulchre of the nuns of ,santa ,anna4 ,grimm declares that he cannot discover the place of her burial1 and ,visconti declares that her tomb remains unknown4 ,but it is apparently a fact that the body of ,vittoria ,colonna is entombed in the sacristy of ,santa ,domenica ,maggiore in ,naples1 the sarcophagus containing it resting by the side of the one containing the body of her husband1 ,francesco d',avalos1 ,marchese of ,pescara4 ,this church is one of the finest in ,naples1 with twenty-seven chapels and twelve altars1 and it is here that nearly all the great nobles of the kingdom of ,naples are entombed4 ,here is the tomb of the learned ,thomas ,aquinas and here is shown1 in relief1 the miracle of the crucifix by ,tommaso de ,stefani1 which--as the legend runs--thus addressed the learned doctor3-- ,bene scripsisti de me1 ,thoma2 quam ergo mercedem recipies8 ,to which he replied3 ,non aliam nisi te4 ,it is in the sacristy in which lie all the ,princes of the ,house of ,aragon that the sarcophagi of the ,marchese and the ,marchesa di ,pescara are placed side by side in the high gallery near the ceiling4 ,the altar has a fine ,annunciation ascribed to ,andrea da ,salerno4 ,the ceiling 7whose coloring is as fresh and vivid as if painted yesterday7 is by ,solimena4 ,around the walls near the ceiling are two balconies or galleries1 filled with very large wooden sarcophagi1 whose scarlet velvet covers have faded into yellow browns with pink shades1 many of which are tattered and are falling to pieces4 ,the casket containing the body of ,fernando ,francesco d',avalos1 ,marchese of ,pescara 7the husband of ,vittoria ,colonna71 has on it an inscription by ,ariosto2 and his portrait 7showing in profile a young face with blonde hair and a full reddish brown beard7 and a banner1 also1 is suspended above the casket4 ,that containing the body of the ,marchesa1 his wife 7,vittoria ,colonna71 has an aperture at the top where the wood is worn away and the embalmed form1 partly crumbled1 may be seen4 ,this seems strange to the verge of fantasy1 but it is1 apparently1 true4 ,the writer of this volume visited the ,church of ,santa ,domenica ,maggiore in ,naples in ,december of #aijf1 and was assured by the sacristan that this sarcophagus contains the body of the ,marchesa4 ,inquiries were then made of other prelates and of the ,archbishop1 who gave the same assurance4 ,later1 learned archologists in ,rome were appealed to1 regarding this assertion made in ,naples1 and the consensus of opinion obtained declares their assertion true4 ,professor ,lanciani has himself publicly expressed this conviction4 ,still1 it remains a curious question as to when this sarcophagus was placed in the sacristy1 for the date goes back into long-buried centuries4 ,adjoining ,santa ,domenica ,maggiore is the monastery in which ,thomas ,aquinas lived and lectured 7in #abgb71 and the cell of the great doctor of philosophy is now made into a chapel4 ,his lectures called together men of the highest rank and learning and were attended by the king and the members of the royal family4 ,the entire locality of this church is replete with historic association4 ,the most distinguished of the nobility of ,naples have1 for centuries1 held their chapels in this church1 and in these are many notable examples of ,renaissance sculpture4 ,the ,accadmia des ,arcades of ,rome1 founded in the seventeenth century to do honor to lyric art1 celebrated the placing of a bust of ,vittoria ,colonna in a gallery of the ,capitoline1 in ,may of #ahfe1 by a resplendent poetic festa4 ,according to the gentle1 leisurely customs of the land1 where it is always afternoon and time has no value1 thirty-two poets read their songs1 written in ,latin or in ,italian1 for this occasion1 which were published in a sumptuous volume to be preserved in the archives of the ,arcadians1 who take themselves more seriously than the world outside quite realizes4 ,this bust of ,vittoria ,colonna was the gift of the ,duca and ,duchessa of ,torlonia of that period4 ,it was crowned with laurel1 as that of ,petrarca had been1 and the government took official recognition of the event4 ,goethe was made a member of this ,accadmia that regarded itself as reflecting the glories of the ,golden ,age of ,greece1 and which was a century old at the time of his visit to ,italy4 ,no stranger of any consequence was readily permitted to leave ,rome without being invited to join this body1 he recorded1 and he wrote a humorous description of the formalities of his initiation4 ,mrs4 ,horatio ,greenough was honored by being made a member of this ,accadmia in recognition of her musical accomplishments1 and the record of it is placed on the memorial marble over her grave in the ,protestant cemetery in ,rome4 ,every year1 on ,tasso's birthday 7,april #be71 the ,accadmia holds a festa in a little amphitheatre near ,tasso's oak1 on the ,janiculum1 at which his bust is crowned with laurel4 ,the gardens in which the seventeenth-century ,arcadians disported themselves are now known among the ,romans as il ,bosco ,parrasio degli ,arcadi4 ,throughout ,italy the fame of ,vittoria ,colonna only deepens with every succeeding century4 ,her nobility of character1 her lofty spirituality of life1 fitly crowned and perfected her intellectual force and brilliant gifts4 ,although from the customs of the time the ,marchesa lived much in convents1 she never1 in any sense1 save that of her fervent piety1 lived the conventual life4 ,her noble gifts linked her always to the larger activities1 and her gifts and rank invested her with certain demands and responsibilities that she could not evade4 ,she was one of the messengers of life1 and her place as a brilliant and distinguished figure in the contemporary world was one that the line of destiny1 which pervades all circumstances and which1 in her case1 was so marked1 absolutely constrained her to fill4 ,she had that supreme gift of the lofty nature1 the power of personal influence4 ,her exquisite courtesy and graciousness of manner1 her simple dignity and unaffected sincerity1 her delicacy of divination and her power of tender sympathy and liberal comprehension all combined to make her the ideal companion1 counsellor1 and friend1 as well as the celebrity of letters and lyric art4 ,no poet has more exquisitely touched the friendship between ,vittoria ,colonna and ,michael ,angelo than has ,margaret ,j4 ,preston1 in a poem supposed to be addressed to the sculptor by ,vittoria1 in which occur the lines3-- ,we twain--one lingering on the violet verge1 ,and one with eyes raised to the twilight peaks-- ,shall meet in the morn again4 99 99 99 99 99 444 ,supremest truth ,i gave2 ,quick comprehension of thine unsaid thought1 ,reverence1 whose crystal sheen was never blurred ,by faintest film of over-breathing doubt2 444 helpfulness ,such as thou hadst not known of womanly hands2 ,and sympathies so urgent1 they made bold ,to press their way where never mortal yet ,entrance had gained1--even to thy soul4 ,this is the ,page de ,conti that one reads in the air as he sails past ,ischia on the violet sea2 and the chant d'amour of the sirens catches the echo of lines far down the centuries3-- ,i understood not1 when the angel stooped1 ,whispering1 ',live on6 for yet one joyless soul1 ,void of true faith in human happiness1 ,waits to be won by thee1 from unbelief4' ,now1 all is clear4 ,for thy sake ,i am glad ,i waited4 ,not that some far age may say1-- ',god's benison on her1 since she was the friend ,of ,michael ,angelo6' ,so sometimes comes to soul and sense ,the feeling which is evidence ,that very near about us lies ,the realm of spiritual mysteries4 ,the sphere of the supernal powers ,impinges on this world of ours4 ,the low and dark horizon lifts1 ,to light the scenic terror shifts2 ,the breath of a diviner air ,blows down the answer of a prayer3-- ,that all our sorrow1 pain1 and doubt ,a great compassion clasps about1 ,and law and goodness1 love and force1 ,are wedded fast beyond divorce4 ,then duty leaves to love its task1 ,the beggar ,self forgets to ask2 ,with smile of trust and folded hands1 ,the passive soul in waiting stands ,to feel1 as flowers the sun and dew1 ,the ,one true ,life its own renew4 ,,whittier4 ,for ,thou only art holy4 ,thou only art the ,lord4 ,thou only1 ,o ,christ1 with the ,holy ,ghost1 art most high in the ,glory of ,god the ,father4 ,sometimes in heaven-sent dreams ,i do behold ,a city with its turrets high in air1 ,its gates that gleam with jewels strange and rare1 ,and streets that glow with burning of red gold2 ,and happy souls1 through blessedness grown bold1 ,thrill with their praises all the radiant air1 ,and ,god himself is light1 and shineth there ,on glories tongue of man hath never told4 ,and in my dreams ,i thither march1 nor stay ,to heed earth's voices1 howsoe'er they call1 ,or proffers of the joys of this brief day1 ,on which so soon the sunset shadows fall2 ,i see the ,gleaming ,gates1 and toward them press-- ,what though my path lead through the ,wilderness8 ,,louise ,,chandler ,,moulton4 ,v ,,voices ,,of ,,st4 ,,francis ,,of ,,assisi ,oh1 ,italy6 thy strength1 thy power1 thy crown ,lie in the life that in ,assisi stirs ,the heart1 with impulse of self-sacrifice2 ,where still ,st4 ,francis gathers weary souls ,in his great love1 which reaches out to all4 444 ,his blessing falls ,in clear sweet tones3 ,benedicat tibi ,convertat vultum suum ad te et ,det ,pacem6 ,hushed and holy silence breathes ,about the wanderer who lifts his heart ,to catch the echo of that voice of love4 ,,celia ,,richmond4 ,the mystic pilgrimage to ,assisi1 the ,seraphic ,city1 prefigures itself almost as a journey to the ,mount of ,vision4 ,any line of truth that leads us above materialism1 says ,dr4 ,wilberforce1 ,venerable ,archdeacon of ,westminster ,abbey1 that forces us to think1 that encourages the imagination to pierce the world's cobwebs1 that forces us to remember that we are enwrapped by the supernatural1 is helpful and stimulating4 ,a human life lived only in the seen and felt1 with no sense of the invisible1 is a fatally impoverished life1 a poor1 blind1 wingless life1 but to believe that ever around us is a whole world full of spiritual beings2 that this life1 with its burdens1 is but the shadow which precedes the reality2 that here we are but ,god's children at school1 is an invigorating conviction1 full of hope1 productive of patience and fruitful in self-control4 ,to an age imprisoned in the fear of ,god the sweet saint1 ,francis1 brought the message of the love of ,god4 ,to an age crushed under the abuses of religion as an organization of feudal bishops and ecclesiastics1 ,st4 ,francis brought the message of hope and of joy4 ,he revealed to his age the absolute reality of the spiritual world that surrounds us4 ,he was born into a time when there existed on the one hand1 poverty and misery2 on the other1 selfish and debasing self-indulgence of wealth and its corresponding oppression of the poor4 ,the ,church itself was a power for conquest and greed4 ,its kingdom was of this world4 ,st4 ,bernard and others had nobly aimed to effect a reform and had illustrated by their own lives the beautiful example of simplicity and unselfishness1 but their work failed in effectiveness and permanent impress4 ,oh1 beauty of holiness6 ,of self-forgetfulness1 of lowliness4 ,not only in beauty1 but in power does it stand4 ,st4 ,francis brought to the sad and problematic conditions of his time that resistless energy of infinite patience1 of a self-control based on insight into the divine relationships of life1 and of unfailing fidelity to his high purpose4 ,through good report or through evil report he kept the faith1 and pressed onward to the high calling of ,god4 ,the twelfth and the thirteenth centuries had been a period of religious unrest and chaos4 ,as ,archdeacon ,wilberforce has so impressively said in the words quoted from him1 a life lived with no sense of the invisible is blind and impoverished4 ,the movement initiated by ,st4 ,francis proclaimed anew the divine grace and love4 ,tokens are dead if the things live not4 ,the light everlasting ,unto the blind is not1 but is born of the eye that has vision4 ,something not unlike this trend of thought must drift through the mind of every one who journeys through the lovely ,umbrian country to ,assisi1 one of those picturesquely beautiful hill towns of ,italy whose romantic situation impresses the visitor4 ,seen from a little distance1 one could hardly imagine how it could be reached unless he were the fortunate possessor of an airship4 ,the entire region is most picturesque in character4 ,journeying from ,rome to ,assisi there is a constant ascent from the ,campagna to the ,apennines1 and the road passes through wild defile and valley with amethyst peaks shining fair against the sky1 with precipitous rocks1 and the dense growth of oak and pine trees4 ,in some places the valley is so narrow that the hills1 on either side1 rise almost within touch of the hand from the car window4 ,the hill towns are frequent1 and the apex of these towns is invariably crowned with a castle1 a cathedral1 or a ruin1 and around it1 circling in terraces1 is built the town4 ,the charm largely vanishes when fairly in these circling roads1 for on either side are high walls1 so that one's view is completely bounded by them2 but from the summit and from the upper floors of the houses the most beautiful views are obtained4 ,the ,umbrian region1 in which are located ,perugia1 ,assisi1 ,spello1 ,foligno1 ,spoleto1 ,terni1 ,narni1 and others1 is simply the gem region of all ,italy4 ,the ,umbrians are the most ancient of the ,italian people1 and ,assisi claims to have been founded eight hundred and sixty-five years before the founding of ,rome4 ,it was the scene of constant warfare1 and the streets are all underlaid by subterranean passages1 in which the inhabitants could disappear from their enemies4 ,to this ancient ,umbrian city1 from which went out the life and light that carried wonderful currents of vitality and illumination to all ,italy and into almost all parts of the world1 one comes as to a special and a sacred pilgrimage4 ,for this medival town1 perched on the top of a rocky hill1 is the birthplace of ,st4 ,francis1 the founder of the ,franciscan order2 in it were the scenes of his early life1 and here1 in #abbf1 at the age of forty-four years1 he died4 ,the convent-church of ,san ,francesco1 built to his memory in #abcj2 the lower church1 completed at that date1 while the upper was finished in #abec2 the magnificent ,cathedral of ,santa ,maria ,degli ,angeli1 completed in #afdj2 the ,church of ,santa ,chiara and the ,duomo1 are the points of interest4 ,illustration3 ,,san ,,francescan ,,convent-,,church1 ,,assisi ,page #cdf ,the purple ,apennines1 on one spur of which ,assisi is built1 are a picturesque feature of lovely ,umbria4 ,the old houses of ,assisi rise white in the sunshine4 ,the ancient walls still surround the city1 and its towers stand as they stood before the eyes of ,st4 ,francis1 almost seven centuries ago4 ,the peak of ,mt4 ,subasio1 a neighboring peak of the ,apennines1 looms above the colossal rock that crowns the hill around whose top ,assisi clusters in winding terraces4 ,the massive pile of the ,francescan church and monastery--the two churches1 one above the other--forms an architectural group whose imposing aspect arrests the eye of every traveller for miles around4 ,the pointed arches of the cloisters and the square campanile contrast rather than blend in an effective and harmonious manner and resemble military fortifications rather than an edifice of the church4 ,the old walls still surround ,assisi1 and the houses all rise white under the blue ,italian sky4 ,the narrow streets1 hardly wide enough for one carriage to pass another1 are so intricate in their curves as they climb the steep hill1 that it requires a faith hardly less than the traditional degree said to move mountains to lead the visitor to suppose that he will ever emerge from one that he has entered4 ,many of the houses along these curious thoroughfares have no windows1 the only light and air coming through the open door4 ,the bells from the campanile of the ,francescan convent-church1 from the ,duomo and from the ,church of ,santa ,chiara ring every quarter of an hour2 and this constant clash of bells is almost the only sound that breaks the silence of the medival town1 which lends itself to visions and to dreams4 ,on the very air is stamped the impress of ,st4 ,francis4 ,his personality1 his teachings1 his faith pervaded the atmosphere in a way that no one could believe until he had himself entered into the experience4 ,in narration it cannot but seem like a pleasing and half-poetic fancy2 but the lingerer in this shrine of religion and art will realize that the actual personality of the man who trod these streets nearly seven hundred years ago is strangely before him4 ,canon ,knox ,little1 in a series of lectures on ,st4 ,francis of ,assisi delivered in the ,ladye ,chapel of ,worcester ,cathedral a few years since1 says of the panorama of the town3-- ,the scene which from ,assisi presented itself daily to his youthful eyes must have had1 did have1 as we know1 a lasting effect upon his mind4 ,from thence the eye surveys a noble coronet of stately mountains4 ,you look from ,radicofani1 above ,trena1 to ,monte ,catria1 famous as the scene of some of ,dante's saddest times of solitude1 and ever is the eye satisfied with the grace and grandeur of the curves of mountain outline1 and the changing hues of an incomparable sky4 ,there are rivers and cities and lakes1--from ,thrasymene1 just hidden by a line of crests1 to the ,paglia and ,tiber beneath1 where ,orvieto crowns its severe and lonely rock4 ,with the changing lights and shadows always beautiful in the vivid spring or burning summer1 tender-tinted autumn or clear and sparkling winter1 with the bright and pure and buoyant atmosphere always giving life and vigor1 what spot on earth more fitted as the birthplace of the saint who was1 above all things1 bright and tender and strong8 ,assisi was an important town in the twelfth century when ,francis1 the son of ,pietro ,bernardone di ,mercanti1 wandered over its hills1 and after severe fasting and prayer communed with ,god4 ,born in the midst of the constant warfare between ,assisi and ,perugia1 he was first a soldier4 ,he was captured and thrown into prison1 and it was a remarkable dream1 or vision1 that came to him before he was set free1 that determined his life of consecration4 ,tradition invested his birth with legends1 one of which is1 that in his infancy an aged man came to the door and begged to be permitted to take the child in his arms1 prophesying that he was destined to accomplish a great work4 ,pietro ,bernardone was a wealthy merchant of ,assisi4 ,pica1 the mother of ,francis1 is said to have been of noble origin and of a deeply religious nature4 ,the early youth of ,francis was given to games1 festivals1 and pleasures that degenerated into dissipation1 but the mother continually affirmed her assurance that1 if it pleased ,god1 her son would become a ,christian4 ,in this atmosphere was nurtured the sweet-souled saint of medival ,italy1 who is described as a figure of magical power1 whose ardent temperament and mystic loveliness attracted to him all men4 ,there is also a legend that ,pica went to pray at the ,portiuncula and that1 for seven years1 she prayed for a son4 ,her prayer was answered in the coming of the infant who was to be the great saint of all the ages4 ,francis1 in his childhood1 also knelt and prayed at this shrine4 ,in the year #abaa1 when ,francis was twenty-nine years of age and had entered on his ministry1 this chapel was given to him1 and no sooner had they come to live here1 it is said1 than the ,lord multiplied their number from day to day4 ,at one time he had gone to his devotions in great depression of spirits1 when1 suddenly1 an unspeakable ecstasy filled his breast4 ',be comforted1 my dearest1' he said1 'and rejoice in the ,lord1 and let us not be sad that we are few2 for it has been shown to me by ,god that you shall increase to a great multitude and shall go on increasing to the end of the world4 ,i see a multitude of men coming to me from every quarter--,french1 ,spaniards1 ,germans1 ,english--each in their different tongues encouraging the others4' ,at a distance of perhaps a mile and a half from ,assisi1 down in the valley near the railroad station1 four holy pilgrims founded a shrine in the fourth century4 ,later1 on this site1 ,st4 ,benedict erected a tiny chapel1 called ,st4 ,maria della ,portiuncula 7,st4 ,mary of the ,little ,patron71 and once1 when praying in the chapel1 ,benedict had a vision of a vast crowd of people kneeling in ecstasy1 chanting hymns of praise1 while outside greater multitudes waited to kneel before the shrine1 and he took this to mean that a great saint would one day be honored there4 ,so the legends1 still conversationally told in ,assisi1 run on and are locally current4 ,undoubtedly the dwellers in this curious old town1 whose streets have hardly one level spot but climb up and down the steep hillside1 realize that their saint is their title to fame and their revenue as well2 yet through all the tales there breathes a certain sincerity and simplicity of worship4 ,the little dark primitive shops teem with relics1 which make1 it is true1 a great draft on imagination1 and by what miracle modern photography has contrived to present the saint of ,assisi in various impressive attitudes and groups it would be as well not to inquire too closely4 ,it is a part of the philosophy of travel to take the goods the gods provide1 and the blending of amused tolerance and unsuspected depths of reverential devotion by which the visitor will find himself moved1 while in ,assisi1 can hardly be described4 ,for1 surely1 here 444 there trod ,the whitest of the saints of ,god1 and ,catholic or ,protestant1 one equally enters into the beauty of his memory4 ,the double and triple arches of the convent church enclose cloistered walls continually filled with visitors4 ,no shrine in ,italy holds such mysterious power4 ,simplicity and joy were the two keynotes of the life taught by ,st4 ,francis4 ,poverty1 he asserted1 is the happy state of life in which men are set free from the trammels of conventionalism1 and can breathe the pure air of ,god's love4 ,the richest inward life is enjoyed when life is poorest outwardly4 ,be poor1 he continued1 try a new principle2 be careless of having and getting2 try being1 for a change4 ,our life in the world ought to be such that any one on meeting us should be constrained to praise the heavenly ,father4 ,be not an occasion of wrath to any one1 he often said1 but by your gentleness may all be led to press onward to good works4 ,the supreme aim of ,francis was that of service to humanity4 ,he gave himself with impassioned fervor to this one work4 ,for him there were no ideals of cloistered seclusion or of devotion to learning and art1 but the ideal alone to uplift humanity4 ,it was literally and simply1 indeed1 the ,christ ideal4 ,of the ,rule made1 one of his biographers says3-- ,amid all these encouragements the ,rule was made4 ,it consists1 like other monastic rules1 of the three great vows of poverty1 chastity1 and obedience1 differing only in so far that the poverty ordained by ,francis was absolute4 ,in other rules1 though the individual was allowed to possess nothing1 the community had often rich possessions1 and there was no reason why the monks should not fare sumptuously and secure to themselves many earthly enjoyments1 notwithstanding their individual destitution and their vow4 ,but among the ,brothers ,minor there was not to be so much as a provision secured for the merest daily necessities4 ,day by day they were to live by ,god's providence1 eating what was given to them1 taking no thought how they were to be fed1 or wherewithal clothed2 'neither gold nor silver in your purses2' not even the scrip to collect fragments in--as if ,god could not provide for every returning necessity4 ,there had been monasteries in ,italy for centuries1 and the ,benedictines were already a great and flourishing community2 but this absolute renunciation of all things struck a certain chill to the hearts of all who heard of it1 except the devoted band who had no will but that of ,francis4 ,his friend1 the ,bishop of ,assisi1 was one of those who stumbled at this novel and wonderful self-devotion4 ',your life1 without a possession in the world1 seems to me most hard and terrible1' said the compassionate prelate4 ',my lord1' said ,francis1 'if we had possessions1 arms and protection would be necessary to us4' ,there was a force in this response which perhaps we can scarcely realize1 but the ,assisan bishop1 who knew something of the temper of the lords of ,umbria1 and knew how lonely were the brethren dwelling on the church lands--the little plot 7,portiuncula7 a whole half league from the city gates--understood and perceived the justice of the reply4 ,another grand distinction of the ,rule drawn up by ,francis was the occupation it prescribed to its members4 ,they were not to shut themselves up1 or to care first for their own salvation4 ,they were to preach--this was their special work2 they were to proclaim repentance and the remission of sins2 they were to be heralds of ,god to the world1 and proclaim the coming of ,his kingdom4 ,it is not possible to suppose that when he thus began to organize the mind of ,francis did not make a survey of the establishments already in existence--the convents bound by the same three great vows1 where life at this moment was going on so placidly1 with flocks and herds and vineyards to supply the communities1 and studious monks in their retirement1 safe from all secular anxieties1 fostering all the arts in their beginning1 and carrying on the traditions of learning2 while all around them the great unquiet1 violent world heaved and struggled1 yet within the convent walls there was leisure and peace4 ,blessed peace and leisure it was often1 let us allow1 preserving for us the germs of many good things we now enjoy1 and raising little centres of safety and charity and brotherly kindness through the country in which they were placed4 ,but such quiet was not in the nature of ,francis4 ,so far as we can make out1 he had thought little of himself--even of his own soul to be saved--all his life4 ,the trouble on his mind had been what to do1 how sufficiently to work for ,god and to help men4 ,his fellow creatures were dear to him2 he gave them his cloak from his shoulders many a day1 and the morsel from his own lips1 and would have given them the heart from his bosom had that been possible4 ,these are the voices that still echo in the air of ,assisi4 ,in the suburbs is still shown the spot where the chapel of ,st4 ,damian stood up a rocky path on the hillside in an olive grove4 ,it was here that the scene of the miracle of the crucifix is laid4 ,before the altar ,francis knelt1 praying3 ,great and ,glorious ,father1 and thou1 ,lord ,jesus1 ,i pray ye1 shed abroad your light in the darkness of my mind4 ,may ,i in all things act in accordance with thy holy will4 ,it is recorded that while he thus knelt in deep prayer1 he was unable to turn his eyes from the cross1 conscious that something marvellous was taking place4 ,the image of the ,saviour assumed life2 the eyes turned attentively on him2 a voice spoke accepting his service and he felt at once endowed with the most marvellous tide of vitality1 of joy1 and of exhilaration4 ,at this moment he entered on that life whose impress is left on the ages4 ,of the character and the peculiar quality of its influence ,mrs4 ,oliphant well says3-- ,it is not always possible to follow with our sympathy that literal1 childlike rendering of every incident in the life of the ,master1 which sometimes looks fantastical and often unmeaning4 ,he was a man of his time1 and could live only under the conditions which that time allowed4 ,he made visible to a literal1 practical1 unquestioning age the undeniable and astounding fact that the highest of all beings chose a life of poverty1 hardship1 and humbleness2 that ,he chose submission instead of resistance1 love instead of oppression1 peace and forgiveness instead of revenge and war4 ,christ had died in their hearts1 as said the legend of that ,christmas at ,greccia2 and1 as in one of the bold and artless pictures just then beginning to yield to a more refined and subtle art1 ,francis set forth before the world the image of his ,master4 ,the ,son of man was lifted up1 as on another cross1 before the eyes of ,umbria1 before all ,italy1 warlike and wily1 priest and baron1 peasant and ,pope4 ,in this world ,francis knew nothing1 acknowledged nothing1 cared for nothing save ,christ and ,him crucified--except1 indeed1 ,christ's world1 the universe redeemed1 the souls to be saved1 the poor to be comforted1 the friends to be cherished1 the singing birds and bubbling fountains1 the fair earth and the sweet sky4 ,courteous1 tender1 and gentle as any paladin1 sweet-tongued and harmonious as any poet1 liberal as any prince1 was the barefooted beggar and herald of ,god4 ,we ask no visionary reverence for the ,stigmata1 no wondering belief in any miracle4 ,as he stood1 he was as great a miracle as any then existing under ,god's abundant1 miraculous heavens2 more wonderful than are the day and night1 the sun and the dew2 only less wonderful than that great ,love which saves the world1 and which it was his aim and destiny to reflect and show forth4 ,that mystic union to which all the ages attest1 the union that may1 at any moment1 be formed between the soul and ,god1 that mystery which the church calls conversion and which finds its perfect interpretation in the words of ,st4 ,paul1 when he said1 that if any man be in ,christ he is a new creation1 had been accomplished in the life of ,francis4 ,he realized the fulness of the knowledge of ,god's will2 he longed only for wisdom and for spiritual understanding4 ,nor is this experience one to be relegated to the realm of miracle4 ,it is simply entering into the supreme completeness of life4 ,it is not alone ,st4 ,paul1 but every man1 who may truly say1 ,i can do all things through ,christ1 who strengtheneth me4 ,nor does this experience1 when translated aright into daily life and action1 require any abnormal form of expression4 ,it does not1 in its truest significance1 mean a life apart from the ordinary duties1 but rather it means that these duties shall be fulfilled in the larger and nobler way4 ,the exceptional man may be called to be the standard bearer2 to renounce all domestic ties and give his service to the world2 but such a life as this differs only in degree from that which in the ordinary home and social relations finds ample means for its best expression4 ,the persistent aim after perfection should be the keynote of every life4 ,no one should be satisfied to hold as his supreme ideal any lesser standard of ultimate achievement than is involved in the divine command1 ,be ye therefore perfect1 even as your ,father in heaven is perfect4 ,this is the soul's ideal1 whatever ages and eternities it may require for it to recognize this trackless path4 ,st4 ,francis recognized joy as a factor of the nobler life4 ,it was his constant effort1 writes one biographer1 that there should be bright looks and cheerful tones about him4 ,to one of his brethren1 who had the habit of walking about sadly with his head drooping1 he said1--it is evident1 with a spark of the impatience natural to his own vivacious spirit1--',you may surely repent of your sins1 my brother1 without showing your grief so openly4 ,let your sorrow be between ,god and you3 pray to ,him to pardon you by ,his mercy1 and to restore to your soul the joy of ,his salvation4 ,but before me and the others be always cheerful1 for it does not become a servant of ,god to have an air of melancholy and a face full of trouble4' ,an incident in the early life of ,st4 ,francis1 which had determining significance1 was his meeting with ,dominic4 ,the story is told that ,dominic1 praying in a church in ,rome1 saw1 in a vision1 our ,lord rise from the right hand of the ,father in wrath1 wearied at last with the contradiction of sinners1 with a terrible aspect and three lances in his hand1 each one of which was to destroy from the face of the earth a distinct class of offenders4 ,but while the dreamer gazed at this awful spectacle1 the ,virgin ,mother arose and pleaded for the world1 declaring that she had two faithful servants whom she was about to send into it to bring sinners to the feet of the ,saviour2 one of these was ,dominic himself1 the other was a poor man1 meanly clad1 whom he had never seen before4 ,this vision came to the devout ,spaniard1 according to the legend1 during the night1 which he spent1 as he was wont1 in a church1 in prayer4 ,next morning1 while he mused on the dream which had been sent to him1 his eye fell all at once upon a stranger in a brown tunic1 of aspect as humble and modest as his garb1 coming into the same church to pray4 ,dominic at once ran to him1 fell on his neck1 and1 saluting him with a kiss1 cried1 ',thou art my companion3 thy work and mine is the same4 ,if we stand by each other1 nothing can prevail against us4' ,no magic mirror1 however1 revealed to ,francis the wonderful panorama of his future4 ,no sibyl turned the leaves of the records yet to unfold4 ,he was preparing himself for a life of penitence rather than a life of activity1 in the opinion of ,paul ,sabatier1 and he had dreamed no dream of becoming a religious founder4 ,he was so entirely without any personal ambition1 save that of being obedient to the ,heavenly ,vision1 that this absolute consecration of purpose enabled the divine power to work through him without obstruction4 ,he became a very perfect instrument1 so to speak1 in the divine hand4 ,after repairing the little chapel called the ,portiuncula1 on the level ground at the foot of the hill1 some two miles from ,assisi1 his plan was to there pass his time in meditation and prayer4 ,but the legend runs that on the feast of ,st4 ,mathias 7,february #bd71 in the winter of #abji1 a ,benedictine monk was celebrating mass and on his turning to read1 ,wherever ye go preach1 saying1 ,the kingdom of heaven is at hand1 ,francis was profoundly and peculiarly impressed1 and he exclaimed3 ,this is what ,i desire1 ,o ,father2 from this day forth ,i set myself to put this command in practice4 ,he felt that ,jesus himself had spoken to him through the priest4 ,love and sacrifice became to him the supreme ideals1 and in this moment1 in that poor and bare little chapel1 was inaugurated one of the greatest and most far-reaching religious movements of the entire world4 ,not always as the whirlwind's rush ,on ,horeb's mount of fear1 ,not always as the burning bush ,to ,midian's shepherd seer1 ,not as the awful voice which came ,to ,israel's prophet bards1 ,nor as the tongues of cloven flame1 ,nor gift of fearful words1-- ,not always thus with outward sign ,of fire or voice from ,heaven ,the message of a truth divine1 ,the call of ,god is given6 ,that great ministry of ,st4 ,francis1 whose influence pervades all time1--that lies between the opening years of the thirteenth and the opening years of the twentieth centuries1--was initiated the next morning in ,assisi1 when ,francis preached for the first time4 ,he spoke simply1 emphasizing the truths he had learned to realize through his own experience3 the absolute duty of following after perfection2 the importance of realizing the shortness of life and the need of repentance4 ,the first disciple of ,francis was a wealthy resident of ,assisi1 named ,bernardo4 ,he was impressed with the conviction that he should distribute his possessions and unite with ,francis in all his aims and work4 ,without definite organization1 others joined them4 ,they passed that spring and summer going up and down the country1 sometimes assisting the harvesters and haymakers1 and everywhere entering into the common life of the people4 ,the ,bishop of ,assisi1 however1 remonstrated with ,francis1 saying that to him it seemed very harsh and unwise to try to live without owning anything4 ,to which ,francis replied that he did not desire temporal possessions1 as these required arms for their defence and were an obstacle to the love of ,god and one's neighbor4 ,it has remained for later years to discern the still truer significance of the teachings of ,jesus1 that neither possessions nor the lack of possessions form the real test1 but the use which is made of them4 ,as spiritual insight is developed it is more and more clearly realized that the quality of the life lived is the sole matter of importance1 and not the conditions that surround it4 ,the brotherhood increased4 ,the abbot of the ,benedictines on ,monte ,subasio ceded to ,francis and his order the little chapel called the ,portiuncula1 now enclosed within the vast and magnificent church of ,santa ,maria degli ,angeli4 ,m4 ,paul ,sabatier1 in his admirable biography of ,st4 ,francis1 points out clearly that the founder of the ,franciscans contemplated a laboring and not a mendicant order4 ,during the decade #abaa to #abba1 which ,francis and his followers passed at the ,portiuncula1 a portion of the time was constantly passed in industrial pursuits4 ,with all his gentleness1 ,francis knew how to show an inflexible severity toward the idle1 says ,sabatier1 and he even went so far as to dismiss a friar who refused to work4 ,although ,francis espoused poverty1 declaring that she was his bride1 he was unfalteringly loyal to the ideals of honest industry and integrity4 ,illustration3 ,,st4 ,,francis ,d',,assisi1 ,,the ,,duomo1 ,,assisi ,giovanni ,dupr ,page #cff ,the mystic legends of the life of their saint that abound in ,assisi are touched with poetic romance in that a companion figure is always seen by his side1 that of ,santa ,chiara4 ,not more inseparable in popular thought are ,dante and ,beatrice1 or ,petrarca and ,laura1 than are ,francis and ,clara4 ,their statues stand side by side in the ,duomo2 they are represented together by both painter and sculptor in the churches of ,santa ,chiara and ,santa ,maria degli ,angeli in the old hill town4 ,chiara was the daughter of a noble family1 and as a girl of sixteen1 coming under the influence of ,francis from hearing one of his sermons1 she1 too1 became one of his followers and left her father's palace in ,assisi to take the vows of perpetual and voluntary poverty at the altar of the ,portiuncula4 ,followed by two women1 she passed swiftly through the town in the dead of the night1 and through dark woods1 her hurrying figure seeming like some spirit driven by winds towards an unknown future4 ,one thing alone was clear before her--that she was nearing the abode of ,francis ,bernardone whose preaching at ,san ,giorgio only a month before had thrilled her1 inspiring her in this strange way to seek the life he had described in fiery words4 ,just as she came in sight of the ,portiuncula the chanting of the brethren1 which had reached her in the wood1 suddenly ceased1 and they came out with lighted torches in expectation of her coming4 ,swiftly and without a word she passed in to attend the midnight mass which ,francis was to serve1 and the scene is thus described3-- ,the ceremony was simple1 wherein lies the charm of all things ,franciscan4 ,the service over and the last blessing given1 ,st4 ,francis led ,clare toward the altar1 and with his own hands cut off her long1 fair hair and unclasped the jewels from her neck4 ,but a few minutes more and a daughter of the proud house of ,scifi stood clothed in the brown habit of the order1 the black veil of religion falling about her shoulders1 lovelier far in this nun-like severity than she had been when decked out in all her former luxury of silken gowns and precious gems4 ,it was arranged that ,clare was to go afterward to the ,benedictine nuns of ,san ,paolo1 near ,bastia1 about an hour's walk farther on in the plain4 ,so when the final vows had been taken1 ,st4 ,francis took her by the hand and they passed out of the chapel together just as dawn was breaking1 while the brethren returned to their cells gazing half sadly1 as they passed1 at the coils of golden hair and the little heap of jewels which still lay upon the altar cloth4 ,clara founded a convent and lived as its abbess1 and the great church of ,santa ,chiara is built on the site of this convent4 ,she was born in ,assisi in #aaid1 and died in #abec1 surviving ,francis by twenty-seven years4 ,her father was the ,count ,favorini ,scifi1 and he had destined his daughter--who had great beauty--to a rich and brilliant marriage4 ,he violently opposed her choice of the religious life1 but no earthly power1 she declared1 should sever her from it4 ,the beauty of the lifelong friendship between ,francis and ,clara is thus touched upon by ,mrs4 ,oliphant3-- ,it was one of those tender and touching friendships which are to the student of history like green spots in the desert2 and which gave to the man and the woman thus voluntarily separated from all the joys of life a certain human consolation in the midst of their hardships4 ,they can have seen each other but seldom1 for it was one of the express stipulations of the ,franciscan ,rule that the friars should refrain from all society with women1 and have only the most sparing and reserved intercourse even with their sisters in religion4 ,and ,francis was no priest1 nor had he the privilege of hearing confession and directing the spiritual life of his daughter in the faith4 ,but he sent to her to ask enlightenment from her prayers1 when any difficulty was in his way4 ,he went to see her when he was in trouble2 especially once on his way to ,rieti to have an operation performed on his eyes4 ,once the two friends ate together at a sacramental meal1 the pledge and almost the conclusion on earth of that tenderest1 most disinterested1 and unworldly love which existed between them4 ,that he was sure of her sympathy in all things1 of her prayers and spiritual aid1 whatsoever he might be doing1 wheresoever he might be1 no doubt was sweet to ,francis in all his labors and trials4 ,as he walked many a weary day past that church of ,st4 ,damian1 every stone of which was familiar to him1 and many laid with his own hands1 must not his heart have warmed at thought of the sister within1 safe from all conflict with the world1 upon whose fellow-feeling he could rely absolutely as man can rely only on woman8 ,the world has jeered at the possibility of such friendships from its earliest age2 and yet they have always existed1--one of the most exquisite and delicate of earthly ties4 ,gazing back into that far distance over the graves1 not only of those two friends1 but of a hundred succeeding generations1 a tear of grateful sympathy comes into the student's eye4 ,he is glad to believe that1 all those years1 ,francis could see in his comings and goings the cloister of ,clara2 and that this sacred gleam of human fellowship1--love purified of all self-seeking1--tender1 visionary1 celestial affection1 sweetened their solitary lives4 ,legends innumerable1 attesting supernormal manifestations regarding ,francis1 sprang up and have been perpetuated through the ages4 ,one is as follows3-- ,hardly more than three years from the moment when the pale penitent was hooted through ,assisi amid the derisive shouts of the people1 and driven with blows and curses into confinement in his own father's house1 we find that it has already become his custom on ,sunday to preach in the cathedral2 and that1 from his little convent at the ,portiuncula1 ,francis has risen into influence in the whole country1 which no doubt by this time was full of stories of his visit to ,rome and intercourse with the ,pope1 and all the miraculous dreams and parables with which that intercourse was attended4 ,already the mind of the people1 so slow to adopt1 but so ready to become habituated to1 anything novel1 had used itself to the sight of the brethren in their brown gowns1 and1 leaping from one extreme to the other1 instead of madmen1 learned to consider them saints4 ,the air about the little cloister began to breathe of miracles1--miracles which must have been a matter of common report among the contemporaries of the saint1 for ,celano wrote within three years of ,francis's death4 ,once1 when their leader was absent1 a sudden wonder startled the brethren4 ,it was midnight between ,saturday and ,sunday1 and ,francis1 who had gone to preach at ,assisi1 was at the moment praying in the canon's garden4 ,a chariot of fire1 all radiant and shining1 suddenly entered the house1 awaking those who lay asleep1 and moving to wonder and awe those who watched1 or labored1 or prayed4 ,it was the heart and thoughts of their leader returning to them in the midst of his prayer1 which were figured by this appearance4 ,when ,francis died a pathetic scene is thus described3-- ,all the clergy of ,assisi1 chanting solemn hymns1 came out to meet the bier1 and thus they climbed the hill to the birthplace of the saint1 the city of his toils and tears and blessing4 ,when they came to ,st4 ,damian an affecting pause was made4 ,clara within1 with all her maidens1 waited the last visit of their father and friend4 ,slowly the triumphant crowd defiled into the church of the nuns1 hushing1 let us hope1 their songs of joy1 their transports of gratulations1 out of respect to the grief which dwelt there1 and could scarcely1 by all the arguments of family pride1 or the excitement of this universal triumph1 be brought to rejoice4 ,the bier was set down within the chancel1 the coffin opened1 and opened also was the little window through which the nuns received the sacrament on ordinary occasions4 ,to this little opening the pale group of nuns1 ten of them1 with ,clara at their head1 came marching silently1 with tears and suppressed cries4 ,clara herself1 even in face of that multitude1 could not restrain her grief4 ',father1 father1 what will become of us8' she cried out2 'who will care for us now1 or console us in our troubles8' ',virgin modesty1' says ,celano1 stopped her lamentations1 and with a miserable attempt at thanksgiving1 reminding herself that the angels were rejoicing at his coming1 and all was gladness on his arrival in the city of ,god1 the woman who had been his closest friend in this world1 whose sympathy he had sought so often1 kissed the pale hands--'splendid hands1' says ,celano1 in his enthusiasm1 'adorned with precious gems and shining pearls'--and disappeared from the little window with her tears into the dim convent behind1 where nobody could reprove her sorrow4 ,the personality of ,chiara comes down to us through the ages invested with untold charm4 ,it is said that when she was dying there came a long procession of white-robed virgins1 led by the ,queen of ,heaven1 whose head was crowned with a diadem of shining gold1 each of the celestial visitors stooped to kiss ,chiara as her soul passed to its home4 ,during all the life of ,francis1 whenever any new movement or work was to be undertaken1 he invariably sent to ask the counsel and the prayers of ,chiara4 ,the miraculous preservation of the body of ,santa ,chiara is one of the articles of faith in ,assisi4 ,in #ahej--six hundred years after her death--a tomb believed to be hers was found and opened in the presence of a distinguished group of ecclesiastics1 among whom was ,cardinal ,pecci1 later ,pope ,leo ,,xiii4 ,in this tomb a form is said to have been found1 and it has been placed in a reliquary of alabaster and ,carrara marble especially constructed for it4 ,this sanctuary is placed in the church of ,santa ,chiara1 in the crypt1 behind a glass screen1 where candles are kept perpetually burning4 ,lina ,gordon ,duff1 writing the history of ,assisi1 says of this curious spectacle3-- ,as pilgrims stand before a grating in the dimly lighted crypt1 the gentle rustle of a nun's dress is heard2 slowly invisible hands draw the curtain aside1 and the body of ,santa ,chiara is seen lying in a glass case upon a satin bed1 her face clearly outlined against her black and white veils1 whilst her brown habit is drawn in straight folds about her body4 ,she clasps the book of her ,rule in one hand1 and in the other holds a lily with small diamonds shining on the streamers4 ,illustration3 ,,santa ,,chiara1 ,,the ,,duomo1 ,,assisi ,amalia ,dupr ,page #cge ,in all these churches--the great convent church1 upper and lower1 of the ,franciscans elaborately adorned with frescoes by ,cimabue and by ,giotto2 in the ancient ,duomo2 in ,santa ,chiara and in ,santa ,maria degli ,angeli--statues of the two saints1 ,francis and ,chiara1 are placed side by side4 ,she shares all the exaltation of his memory and the fulness of his fame4 ,the strange problem of the stigmata has1 perhaps1 never been absolutely solved4 ,canon ,knox ,little says that as to the miracles of ,st4 ,francis generally speaking1 there is no intrinsic improbability2 that his holy life1 his constant communion with ,god1 the abundant blessings with which it pleased ,god to mark his ministry1 all point in the same direction4 ,latter-day revelations of psychic science disclose contemporary facts of the power of mental influence on the physical form that are1 in many instances1 hardly less wonderful than this alleged miracle of ,st4 ,francis4 ,whether the story is accepted literally or only in a figurative sense does not affect the transcendent power of his influence4 ,his entire life and work illustrate the beauty of holiness4 ,art in its widest sense gained a marvellous impulse from his work and effort1 says ,canon ,knox ,little4 ,the ,french and ,provenal literature and the schools of ,byzantine art preceded the life of ,francis2 but his influence imparted a powerful wave of sympathetic and vital insight and awakened a world of new sensibilities of feeling4 ,indeed1 it is a proverb of ,italy1 ,without ,francis1 no ,dante4 ,certainly the life of ,francis was the inspiration of the early ,italian art4 ,cimabue and ,giotto drew from the inspiration of that unique and lovely life the pictorial conceptions that have made ,assisi the cradle of ,italian painting4 ,the great works of ,giotto are in the lower church of the ,franciscan monastery4 ,one of these frescoes represents chastity as a maiden kneeling in a shrine1 while angels bring to her branches of palm4 ,obedience is depicted as placing a yoke upon the bowed figure of a priest1 while ,st4 ,francis1 attended by two angels1 looks on2 ,poverty1 whom ,francis declared to be his bride1 is pictured as accompanied by ,hope and ,charity1 who give her in marriage to ,st4 ,francis1 the union being blessed by ,christ1 while the heavenly ,father and throngs of angels gaze through the clouds on this nuptial scene4 ,the fresco called ,gloriosus ,franciscus is perhaps the crowning work of ,giotto4 ,francis is seen in a beatitude of glory1 with a richly decorated banner bearing the cross and seven stars floating above his head and bands of angels in the air surrounding him4 ,canon ,knox ,little1 alluding to these interesting works of ,giotto1 says that even in their faded glories they give an immense interest to the lower church of ,assisi4 ,no one can look at them now unmoved1 or wander on the hillside to the west of the little city1 with the rugged rocks above one's head1 and beneath one's feet the rich carpets of cyclamen1 and before one's eyes long dreamy stretches of the landscape of ,umbria1 without being touched by the feeling of that beautiful and loving life devoted to ,god and man and nature1 in utter truth1 which therefore left such an impress on ,christian art4 ,the ,madonna and saints painted by ,cimabue are faded almost to the point of obliteration1 yet there still lingers about them a certain grace and charm4 ,the visitor to this ,franciscan monastery church realizes that he is beholding the art which was the very pledge and prophecy of the ,renaissance1 and he realizes1 too1 that the ,renaissance itself was the outgrowth of the new vitality communicated to the world by the life and character of ,st4 ,francis4 ,he gave to the world the realization of the living ,christ2 he taught that religion was in action1 not in theology4 ,he liberated the spirit2 and when this colossal church was being built 7#abbh-ec7 the artists who had felt the new thrill of life opened by his teaching hastened to ,assisi to express their appreciation by their pictorial work on its walls4 ,the qualities of spiritual life--faith1 sacrifice1 sympathy1 and love--began1 for the first time1 to be interpreted into artistic expression4 ,the tomb of ,st4 ,francis is in the crypt of the church4 ,the stone sarcophagus containing his body was discovered in #ahah1 and then placed here in a little chamber especially prepared1 surrounded by an iron latticework with candles perpetually burning4 ,from the sacristy of the lower church1 stairs ascend to the upper1 with its beautiful nave and transept with a high altar1 and the choir stalls4 ,while the lower church with its great arches is always dark1 the upper is flooded with light from vast windows4 ,there is a series of frescoed panels on either side1 accredited to pupils of ,giotto1 full of forcible action and a glow of color4 ,but the upper church1 while it is magnificent1 lacks somewhat of that mystic atmosphere one is so swiftly conscious of in the gloom and mystery of the lower church4 ,stretching behind the churches1 along the crest of the high hill1 is the colossal monastery itself1 with that double row of arches and colonnades that makes it so conspicuous a feature of all the ,umbrian valley4 ,formerly hundreds of monks dwelt here2 but the ,italian government suppressed this monastery in #ahff1 and since that time it has been used as a school for boys4 ,the ancient ,duomo1 whose faade is of the twelfth century1 has three exquisite rose windows1 and on either side1 as one approaches the high altar1 stand the statues of ,st4 ,francis and of ,santa ,chiara4 ,in the little piazza in front of the church is a bronze copy of ,dupr's famous statue of ,st4 ,francis4 ,the colossal church of ,santa ,maria degli ,angeli1 with its magnificent dome1 is a contrast1 indeed1 to the primitive little ,portiuncula where ,francis knelt in prayer1 and which is now preserved in the centre of this vast cathedral1--the rude structure encased in marble1 and decorated1 above the entrance1 with a picture by ,overbeck1 whose motive is ,st4 ,francis as he stands1 hushed and reverent1 listening to the voice that tells him to embrace poverty4 ,there is a fine ,perugino in the church1 representing the ,saviour4 ,the cell in which ,st4 ,francis died1 enclosed in the little chapel which ,st4 ,bonaventura built over it1 is preserved in this great cathedral4 ,and who was he that opened that door in heaven8 questions ,canon ,knox ,little in reference to ,st4 ,francis4 ,who was he that gave that fresh life and thought8 ,who but the man who had brought down in his own person the living ,christ into his century1 who had taught men again the love of ,god1 and then the love of man and the love of nature2 who had lifted the people out of their misery and degradation1 and awakened the church out of its stiffness and worldliness2 it was he1 too1 who inspired1 who may at most be said to have created1 ,italian art1--the great ,st4 ,francis6 ,such are the deep1 such are the penetrating1 such are the far-reaching effects of sanctity4 ,if a soul is1 by divine grace1 given wholly to ,god1 it is impossible for us to say to what heights it may attain1 or what good1 in every region of human effort1 it may do4 ,illustration3 ,,bai ,,and ,,ischia1 ,,from ,,camaldoli ,page #chb ,perugia1 the neighboring city only fifteen miles from ,assisi1 is the metropolis of all this ,umbrian region4 ,like ,assisi1 it is a hill town1 built on an acropolis of rock1 its foundations laid by the ,etruscans more than three thousand years before the ,christian era1 and its atmosphere is freighted with the records of artists and scholars4 ,the ,perugians were the forerunners4 ,they held the secret of artifice in metals and gems2 they were architects and sculptors4 ,the only traces of their painting that have come down to us are their works on sarcophagi1 on vases or funeral urns1--traces that indicate their gifts for line and form4 ,it was about #caj ,b4,c4 that all ,umbria became a ,roman province4 ,the colossal porta of ,augustus--a gateway apparently designed for the ,cyclops--still retains its inscription1 ,augustus ,perusia4 ,the imperishable impress of the great ,roman conqueror is still seen in many places4 ,perugia was a firm citadel1 as is attested by the fact that ,totila and his army of ,goths spent seven years in besieging it4 ,the centuries from the thirteenth to the fifteenth inclusive1 when it was under the sway of the ,guelphs and the ,ghibellines1 were years of tragic violence4 ,even the cathedral became the scene of riot1 and its interior was entirely washed with wine1 and it was reconsecrated before it could be again used for holy offices4 ,the little piazza in front of the cathedral1 now dreaming in the sun1 has been the scene of strange and contrasting crises of life4 ,strife and warfare have desolated it2 the footsteps of ,bernardino of ,siena have consecrated it1 as he passed within the great portals to preach the gospel of peace4 ,he was one of the most potent of the ,francescan disciples1 and ,bernardino 7born of the noble family of the ,albizzeschi1 in #achj1 in ,siena1 the year after ,st4 ,catherine's death7 for forty years wandered over ,italy1 preaching peace and repentance4 ,vespasiano da ,bisticci1 a contemporary historian1 records that ,bernardino converted and changed the minds and spirits of men marvellously and had a wondrous power in persuading men to lay aside their mortal hatreds4 ,bernardino died at the age of sixty-four in ,aquila1 and the towns in which he had faithfully carried on his apostolic work placed the sacred sign of the divine name 7,i4,h4,s47 upon their gates and palaces1 in his memory4 ,in the ,sienese gallery is a portrait of ,san ,bernardino by ,sano1 painted in #adfj1 representing the saint as the champion of the ,holy ,name1 with the inscription1 ,i have manifested ,thy name to men4 ,in one of his impressive and wonderful sermons ,san ,bernardino said3-- ,there still remain many places for us to make4 ,ah6 for the love of ,god1 love one another4 ,alas6 see you not that1 if you love the destruction one of the other you are ruining your very selves8 ,ah6 put this thing right for the love of ,god4 ,love one another6 ,what ,i have done to make peace among you and to make you like brothers1 ,i have done with that zeal ,i should wish my own soul to receive4 ,i have done it all to the glory of ,god4 ,and let no one think that ,i have set myself to do anything at any person's request4 ,i am only moved by the bidding of ,god for ,his honor and glory4 ,opposite the ,duomo of ,perugia1 on the other side of the piazza1 is the ,palazzo ,municipio1 with a ,gothic faade1 a beautiful example of thirteenth-century architecture4 ,here also is the colossal fountain with three basins1 decorated with pictorial designs from the ,bible by ,niccolo ,pisano and ,arnolfo of ,florence1 and in the shadow of this fountain ,st4 ,dominic1 ,st4 ,francis1 and ,st4 ,bernardino often met and held converse4 ,perugia easily reads her title clear to artistic immortality in having been the home of ,perugino1 the master of ,raphael4 ,here he lived for several years working with ,pinturicchio in the frescoes that adorn the ,collegio del ,cambio1 now held as a priceless treasure hall of art4 ,they still glow with rich coloring1--the ,christ seen on the ,mount of ,transfiguration2 the ,mother and ,child with the adoring magi2 and the chariot of the dawn driven by ,apollo a century before ,guido painted his ,aurora in the ,palazzo ,rospigliosi in ,rome4 ,from the parapets of ,perugia are views of supreme poetic beauty4 ,the play of light and color on the picturesque hills and mountains of the ,umbrian country2 the gray-green gleam of olive orchards and the silver threads of winding streams2 the towers and ruins and castles of a dozen towns and villages that crown the slopes1 and the violet shadows of deepening twilight1 with ,assisi bathed in a splendor of rose and gold1--all combine to make this an ever-changing panorama for the poet and painter4 ,no journey in ,italy is quite like that to the lovely ,umbrian valley and its ,jerusalem1 ,assisi1 the shrine which1 with the single exception of ,rome1 is the special place of pilgrimage for the entire religious world4 ,perugia offers the charm of art1 and attracts the visitor1 also1 by an exceptional degree of modern comfort and convenience2 but ,assisi is the shrine before which he kneels1 where the footsteps of saints who have knelt in prayer make holy ground1 and where he realizes anew the consecration of faith and sacrifice4 ,the very air is filled with divine messages1 and in lowly listening he will hear1 again1 those wonderful and thrilling words of ,st4 ,francis3-- ,by the holy love which is in ,god ,i pray all to put aside every obstacle1 every care1 every anxiety1 that they may be able to consecrate themselves entirely to serve1 love1 and honor the ,lord ,god1 with a pure heart and a sincere purpose1 which is what ,he asks above all things4 ,white phantom city1 whose untrodden streets ,are rivers1 and whose pavements are the shifting ,shadows of palaces and strips of sky2 ,i wait to see thee vanish like the fleets ,seen in mirage1 or towers of clouds uplifting ,in air their unsubstantial masonry4 ,,longfellow4 ,fair as the palace builded for ,aladdin1 ,yonder ,st4 ,mark uplifts its sculptured splendor-- ,intricate fretwork1 ,byzantine mosaic1 ,color on color1 column upon column1 ,barbaric1 wonderful1 a thing to kneel to6 ,over the portal stand the four gilt horses1 ,gilt hoof in air1 and wide distended nostril1 ,fiery1 untamed1 as in the days of ,nero4 ,skyward1 a cloud of domes and spires and crosses2 ,earthward1 black shadows flung from jutting stonework4 ,high over all the slender ,campanile ,quivers1 and seems a falling shaft of silver4 ,,thomas ,,bailey ,,aldrich4 ,as one who parts from ,life's familiar shore1 ,looks his last look in long-beloved eyes1 ,and sees in their dear depths new meanings rise ,and strange light shine he never knew before2 ,as then he fain would snatch from ,death his hand ,and linger still1 if haply he may see ,a little more of this ,soul's mystery ,which year by year he seemed to understand2 ,so1 ,venice1 when thy wondrous beauty grew ,dim in the clouds which clothed the wintry sea ,i saw thou wert more beauteous than ,i knew1 ,and long to turn and be again with thee4 ,but what ,i could not then ,i trust to see ,in that next life which we call memory4 ,,phillips ,,brooks4#b ,,footnotes3 #b ,from ,life of ,phillips ,brooks1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,e4 ,p4 ,dutton ,co4 ,,vi ,,the ,,glory ,,of ,a ,,venetian ,,june ,i have been between ,heaven and ,earth since our arrival at ,venice4 ,the ,heaven of it is ineffable--never had ,i touched the skirts of so celestial a place4 ,the beauty of the architecture1 the silver trails of water up between all that gorgeous color and carving1 the enchanting silence1 the music1 the gondolas1--,i mix it all up together1 and maintain that nothing is like it1 nothing equal to it1 no second ,venice in the world4 ,,mrs4 ,,browning1 in the ,june of #ahej4 ,the first glimpse of enchanted ,venice1 as her towers and marble palaces rise wraith-like from the sea1 is an experience that can never fade from memory4 ,like a mirage1 like a vision invoked by some incantation or magician's spell1 the scene prefigures itself1 bringing a thrill of some vague and undefined memory1 as if a breath floated by1-- ,an odor from ,dreamland sent1 ,that makes the ghost seem nigh me1 ,of a splendor that came and went2 ,of a life lived somewhere1--,i know not ,in what diviner sphere1-- ,of memories that stay not and go not1 which eludes all translation into words4 ,nor does the spell dissolve and vanish when put to the test of one's actual sojourn in the ,dream ,city4 ,it is an experience outside the boundaries of the ordinary day and daylight world1 as if one were caught up into the ethereal realm to find a city 444 of gliding and wide-wayed silence ,with room in the streets for the soul4 ,the sense of remoteness from common life could hardly be greater if one were suddenly swept away to some far star1 blazing in the firmament2 or if ,charon had rowed him over the mystic river and he had entered the abodes of life on the plane beyond4 ,even the hotel becomes an enchanted palace whose salons1 luxuriously decorated1 open by long windows on marble balconies overhanging the ,grand ,canal4 ,dainty little tables piled with current reading matter1 in ,french1 ,english1 and ,italian1 stand around2 the writing-desks are sumptuous1 filled with every convenience of stationery2 and the matutinal coffee and rolls are served the guest in any idyllic niche wherein he chooses to ensconce himself1 regardless of the regulation salle--manger4 ,one looks across the ,grand ,canal to the beautiful ,church of ,santa ,maria della ,salute4 ,the water plashes against the marble steps as gondolas glide past2 the blue sky of ,italy reflects itself in the waters below1 until one feels as if he were floating in the air between sea and sky4 ,in the heart of the city1 with throngs of people moving to and fro1 all is yet silence1 save the cry of the gondolier1 the confused echo of voices from the people who pass1 and here and there the faint call of a bird4 ,no whir and rush of electric cars and motors2 no click of the horses' feet on the asphalt pavement--no pavement1 indeed1 and no horses1 no twentieth-century rush of life4 ,it is ,venice1 it is ,june1 and the two combine to make an illuminated chapter4 ,to live in ,venice is like being domesticated in the heart of an opal4 ,how wonderful it is to drift--a sky above and a sky below--on still waters at sunset1 with the ,dream ,city mirrored in the depths1 every shade of gold and rose and amber mirrored back1--the very atmosphere a sea of color1 recalling to one ,ruskin's words that none of us appreciate the nobleness and the sacredness of color4 ,of all ,god's gifts to man1 he continues1 color is the holiest1 the most divine1 the most solemn4 ,color is the sacred and saving element4 ,if the enthusiasm in these words savor of exaggeration1 ,venice is the place that will lure one to forgetfulness of it4 ,one is simply conscious of being steeped in color and revelling in a strange loveliness4 ,one no longer marvels at the glory of ,tintoretto and ,paolo ,veronese4 ,they but interpreted on canvas the shining reality4 ,a charming writer on ,venice has well said3-- ,the aspects of ,venice are as various1 as manifold1 as the hues held in solution upon her waters beneath a sirocco sky4 ,there is a perpetual miracle of change2 one day is not like another1 one hour varies from the next2 there is no stable outline such as one finds among the mountains1 no permanent vista1 as in a view across a plain4 ,the two great constituents of the ,venetian landscape1 the sea and the sky1 are precisely the two features in nature which undergo most incessant change4 ,the cloud-wreaths of this evening's sunset will never be repeated again2 the bold and buttressed piles of those cloud-mountains will never be built again just so for us2 the grain of orange and crimson that stains the water before our prow1 we cannot be sure that we shall look upon its like again4444 ,one day is less like another in ,venice than anywhere else4 ,the revolution of the seasons will repeat certain effects2 spring will chill the waters to a cold1 hard green2 summer will spread its breadth of golden light on palace front and water way2 autumn will come with its pearly-gray sirocco days1 and sunsets flaming a sombre death2 the stars of a cloudless winter night1 the whole vast dome of heaven1 will be reflected in the mirror of the still lagoon4 ,but in spite of this general order of the seasons1 one day is less like another in ,venice than anywhere else2 the lagoon wears a different aspect each morning when you rise1 the sky offers a varied composition of cloud each evening as the sun sets4 ,words cannot describe ,venice1 nor brush portray her ever-fleeting1 ever-varying charm4 ,venice is to be felt1 not reproduced2 to live there is to live a poem1 to be daily surfeited with a wealth of beauty enough to madden an artist to despair4 ,it was in the autumn of #ahhb that the ,rev4 ,dr4 ,phillips ,brooks1 later ,bishop of ,massachusetts1 visited ,venice and wrote of ,san ,marco3-- ,strange how there is nothing like ,st4 ,mark's in ,venice1 nothing of the same kind as the great church4 ,it would have seemed as if1 standing here for so many centuries1 and always profoundly loved and honored1 it would almost of necessity have influenced the minds of the generations of architects1 and shown its power in their works4 ,but there seems to be no sign of any such influence4 ,it stands alone4 ,dr4 ,brooks noted that ,venice had two aspects1 one sensuous and self-indulgent1 the other lofty1 spiritual1 and even severe4 ,both aspects1 he continues1 are in its history and both are also in its art4 ,titian often represents the former4 ,the loftier1 nobler ,tintoretto gives us the second4 ,there is something in his greatest pictures1 as1 for instance1 in the ,crucifixion1 at ,st4 ,rocco1 which no other artist approaches4 ,the lordly composition gives us an impression of intellectual grasp and vigor4 ,the foreground group of prostrate women is full of a tenderness4 ,the rich pearly light1 which floods the centre1 glows with a solemn picturesqueness1 and the great ,christ1 who hangs like a benediction over the whole1 is vocal with a piety which no other picture in the world displays4 ,and the ,presentation of the ,virgin1 in ,santa ,maria dell',orto1 is the consummate presentation of that beautiful subject1 its beauty not lost in its majesty4 ,of other pictures ,dr4 ,brooks said3-- ,in the ,academia there is the sunshine of three hundred years ago4 ,paris ,bordone's glowing picture of the ,fisherman who brings the ,ring of ,st4 ,mark to the ,doge1 burned like a ray of sunlight on the wall4 ,carpaccio's delightful story of ,st4 ,ursula brought the old false standards of other days back to one's mind1 but brought them back lustrous with the splendor of summers that seemed forever passed1 but are perpetually here4 ,tintoretto's ,adam and ,eve was1 as it always is1 the most delightful picture in the gallery1 and ,pordenone's great ,st4 ,augustine seemed a very presence in the vast illuminated room4 ,tennyson loved best1 of all the pictures in ,venice1 a ,bellini1--a beautiful work1 in the ,church of ,il ,redentore2 and he was deeply impressed by the ,presentation of the ,virgin1 from ,tintoretto1 in the ,church of the ,madonna dell',orto4 ,he was fascinated by ,st4 ,mark's1 writes the poet's son1 by the ,doge's ,palace and the ,piazza1 and by the blaze of color in water and sky4 ,he climbed the ,campanile1 and walked to the library where he could scarcely tear himself away from the ,grimani ,breviary4 ,venice1 though not containing any single gallery comparable with the ,pitti and the ,uffizi1 is still singularly rich in treasures of art1 and rich in legend and story4 ,the school of encrusted architecture is nowhere so wonderfully represented as here1 and it is only in this architecture that a perfect scheme of color decoration is possible4 ,in all the world there is no such example of encrusted architecture as that revealed in ,st4 ,mark's4 ,it is a gleaming mass of gold1 opal1 ruby1 and pearl2 with alabaster pillars carved in designs of palm and pomegranate and lily2 with legions of sculptured angels looking down2 with altars of gold ablaze with scarlet flowers and snowy lilies1 while clouds of mystic incense fill the air4 ,one most impressive place is the baptistery1 where is the tomb of ,st4 ,mark and also that of the ,doge ,andrea ,dandolo1 who died at the age of forty-six1 having been chosen ,doge ten years before4 ,his tomb is under a window in the baptistery1 and the design is that of his statue in bronze1 lying on a couch1 while two angels at the head and the feet hold back the curtains4 ,the sarcophagus that is said to contain the body of ,st4 ,mark is of the richest description1 encrusted with gold and jewels on polished ebony and marble4 ,there is a legend that after ,st4 ,mark had seen the people of ,aguilia well grounded in religion he was called to ,rome by ,st4 ,peter2 but before setting off he took with him in a boat the holy ,bishop ,hennagoras and sailed to the marshes of ,venice4 ,the boat was driven by wind to a small island called ,rialto1 on which were some houses1 and ,st4 ,mark was suddenly snatched into ecstasy and heard the voice of an angel saying1 ,peace be to thee1 ,mark2 here shall thy body rest4 ,there is also a legend that in the great conflagration which destroyed ,venice in #igf ,a4,d41 the body of ,st4 ,mark was lost and no one knew where to find it4 ,then the pious ,doge and the people gave themselves to fasting and prayer1 and assembled in the church1 asking that the place be revealed them4 ,it was on the #beth of ,june that the assemblage took place4 ,suddenly one of the pillars of the church trembled1 and opened to disclose the sarcophagus1--a chest of bronze4 ,the legend goes on to say that ,st4 ,mark stretched his hand out through the side and that a noble1 ,dolfini by name1 drew a gold ring off the finger4 ,the place where this miracle is said to have been wrought is now marked by the ,altar of the ,cross4 ,ruskin declares that a complete understanding of the sanctity of color is the key to ,european art4 ,nowhere is this sanctity of color so felt as at ,san ,marco4 ,the church is like the temple of the ,new ,jerusalem4 ,the origin of ,venice is steeped in sacred history4 ,it is pre-eminently the city founded in religious enthusiasm4 ,the chronicles of ,de ,monici1 written in #dba1 give this passage3 ,god1 who punishes the sins of men by war1 sorrow1 and whose ways are past finding out1 willing both to save the innocent blood1 and that a great power1 beneficial to the whole world1 should arise in a place strange beyond belief1 moved the chief men of the cities of the ,venetian province both in memory of the past1 and in dread of future distress1 to establish states upon the nearer islands of the ,adriatic1 to which1 in the last extremity1 they might retreat for refuge4444 ,they laid the foundation of the new city under good auspices on the island of the ,rialto1 the highest and nearest to the mouth of the ,brenta1 on ,march #be1 #dga4 ,the first ,doge of ,venice was ,paolo ,lucio ,anafesto1 elected by the tribunal of commonalty1 tribunals1 and clergy1 at ,heraclea1 in #fig4 ,the period of the subjection of the ecclesiastical to the ducal and patrician powers followed4 ,the ,council of ,ten was established in #acce1 and the last ,doge elected was ,lodovico ,manin in #aghi1 who exclaimed1 ,tol questo3 no la doper pi1 as the ,french ,revolution destroyed the ,republic of ,venice4 ,the finest example of ,renaissance architecture in ,venice is that of the ,libreria ,vecchia1 the work of ,jacobo ,sansovino1 completed in the sixteenth century4 ,never were the creations of poet and philosopher more fittingly enshrined4 ,the rich ,doric frieze1 the ,ionic columns1 the stately balustrade1 with statues and obelisks1 the resplendent richness of ornamentation1 offer a majesty and beauty seldom found even in the best classical architecture of ,europe4 ,on the ceiling of one sala is a picture by ,titian representing ,wisdom as a woman1 reclining on a cloud1 her right hand outstretched to take a book that ,genius is offering her4 ,there are two beautiful caryatides by ,vittoria and rich mural work by ,battista ,franco and ,de ,moro4 ,petrarca1 returning from his wanderings in #acfb1 pleaded with the ,senate of ,venezia to give him a house1 in return for which he offered the inheritance of his library4 ,this was the nucleus of the fine collection which since #ahab has been included in the ,palace of the ,doges4 ,in it are some magnificent works by ,paolo ,veronese1 one portrait by ,tintoretto1 and others by ,salviati and ,telotti4 ,the ,doge's ,palace is a treasure house of history4 ,one enters the ,porta della ,carta1 which dates back to #afch1 erected by ,bartolomeo ,buon4 ,the portal is very rich in sculpture1 and among the reliefs is a heroic one of ,francesco ,foscari1 kneeling before the lion at ,st4 ,mark's4 ,one recalls his tragic fate and passes on4 ,perhaps1 en passant1 one may say that his pilgrimage through ,venice and ,florence is so constantly in the scenes of tragedy that he is prone to sink almost into utter sadness1 even1 rather than seriousness4 ,the air is full of ghosts4 ,one feels the oppression of all the life that has there been lived1 all the tragedies that have been enacted in these scenes4 ,in ,renaissance nothing more wonderful in ,europe can be found than the court of the ,palace of the ,doges4 ,antonio ,rizzo began the east faade of the building in #adhj1 and it was continued by ,lombardo1 and completed by ,scarpagnino4 ,words cannot be found to praise the beauty of these sculptures1 says ,salvatico1 as well as of the single ornaments of the walls and of the ogres which have been carved so delicately and richly that they cannot be excelled by the ,roman antique friezes4 ,by the golden staircase one goes to the council chambers1--the hall of the ,senate1 the ,council of ,ten1 and the ,council of ,three4 ,in the great council chamber is that most celebrated mural painting in the world1 ,the ,glory of ,venice1 by ,paolo ,veronese1 which covers the ceiling4 ,in a frieze are the portraits of seventy-six of the ,doges1 but in one space is a black tablet only1 with the inscription3 ,this in place of ,m4 ,f41 who was executed for his crimes4 ,the ,sala del ,maggior ,consiglio 7hall of the grand council7 is very rich in paintings4 ,above the throne is ,tintoretto's ,the ,glory of ,paradise1 and the walls are covered with battle pieces and symbolic and allegorical paintings4 ,there is ,venice ,crowned by ,fame1 by ,paolo ,veronese1 ,doge ,niccol da ,ponte ,presenting the ,senate and ,envoys of ,conquered ,cities to ,venice1 by ,tintoretto2 ,venice ,crowned by the ,goddess of ,victory1 by ,palma ,giovane1 and many another of the richest and most wonderful beauty4 ,descending into the prisons and dungeons brings one into a vivid realization of the grim history of which these were the scenes4 ,the ,bridge of ,sighs has two covered passages1 one for the political and one for the criminal prisoners4 ,here is shown a narrow ledge on which the condemned man stood1 with a slanting stone passageway before him1 which1 when the guillotine had done its swift and deadly work1 conveyed the crimson flood into the dark waters of the canal below1 while the body was thrown in the water on the other side4 ,there are the ,chambers of ,lead1 where prisoners were confined1 intensely hot in the summer1 and as intensely cold in the winter4 ,many of these dark1 close1 narrow cells--in which the one article of furniture allowed was the wooden slanting rack1 that served as a bed--still remain4 ,in many of these are inscriptions that were written by the prisoners4 ,one reads 7in translation73 ,may ,god protect me against him whom ,i trust2 ,i will protect myself against him whom ,i do not trust4 ,the murderer1 ,giovanni ,m4 ,borni1 wrote in his cell3 ,g4 ,m4 ,b4 was confined very unjustly in this prison2 if ,god does not help it will be the last desolation of a poor1 numerous1 and honest family4 ,all visitors to these gloomy dungeons recall the lines of ,byron3-- ,i stood in ,venice on the ,bridge of ,sighs1 ,a palace and a prison on each hand4 ,the piazza of ,st4 ,mark's is a distinctive feature1 even in all ,europe4 ,it is not large2 it is surrounded on three sides with shops1 which are merely glittering bazaars of jewels and bric-a-brac2 the sidewalk is blockaded with cafs al fresco1 the ground is half covered with the dense flocks of white doves1 but here all lingers and loiters4 ,the faade of ,st4 ,mark's fills one end--a mass of gleaming color4 ,at one corner is the tall clock tower 7,torre dell',orologio7 in the ,renaissance style of #adjj1 crowned with the gilded lion of ,st4 ,mark4 ,on the festa days three figures1 the ,three ,wise ,men1 preceded by an angel1 come forth on the tower and bow before the ,madonna1 in a niche above1--a very ingenious piece of mechanism4 ,with its rich architecture and sculptures and masses of color1 the piazza of ,san ,marco is really an open-air hall1 where all the town congregates from morning till midnight4 ,to study the art of the ,venetian school is a work of months1 and one that would richly repay the student4 ,the churches and galleries of ,venice give a truly unique opportunity4 ,in the ,church of ,san ,sebastiano lies ,paolo ,veronese1 the church in which he painted his celebrated frescoes1 now transformed into a temple for himself4 ,here one finds his ,coronation of the ,virgin1 ,the ,virgin in the ,gloria1 ,adoration of the ,magi1 ,martyrdom of ,san ,sebastian1 and many others4 ,in the ,scuola di ,san ,rocco are the great works of ,tintoretto1 ,st4 ,magdalene in the ,wilderness1 the ,visitation1 and the ,murder of the ,innocents4 ,in the ,san ,maria dei ,frari is the tomb of ,titian1--an exquisite grouping of sculpture in ,carrara marble1 erected in #ahgh-hj by the command of the ,emperor of ,austria1 the work of ,zandomenighi4 ,in this church is ,titian's most famous painting1 the ,madonna of the ,pessaro1 the work of which is probably1 too1 the greatest in all ,venetian art4 ,the ,hall of ,heaven is shown1 supported by colossal columns4 ,st4 ,peter1 ,francis1 and ,antoninus are commending the ,pessaro family to the ,virgin1 who is enthroned on high4 ,the beauty of line1 the splendor of color1 and the marvellous composition render this immortal masterpiece something whose sight marks an epoch in life4 ,canova's tomb in ,san ,maria dei ,frari is a wonderful thing4 ,it is a pyramid of purest marble1 with a door opening for the sarcophagus1 above which is a portrait of ,canova in relief1 and on either side the door angels and symbolic figures are sculptured4 ,the ,church of ,santa ,maria della ,salute1 to which one is always returning1 is a wonderful example of artistic architecture1 as its snowy towers and dome seem to rise out of the water and float in the air4 ,the fall of the ,campanile in #aijd was regarded as a calamity by all the civilized world4 ,for a thousand years it had stood at the side of ,st4 ,mark's2 but the disaster aroused the attention of experts to the condition of the great cathedral itself1 and it was found that the vast area of over fifty thousand square feet of matchless mosaic needed restoration in order that they should be preserved4 ,the ,palazzo ,rezzonico1 which dates to ,clement ,,xiii1 usually known as the ,browning ,palace1 has been for many years one of the special interests to the visitor in ,venice4 ,in the early months of #aijg it passed out of the hands of ,robert ,barrett ,browning1 who had purchased it in #ahhh1 and had held it sacredly1 with its poetic and personal associations1 since the death of his father1 the poet1 in #ahhi4 ,to ,mr4 ,barrett ,browning is due the grateful appreciation of a multitude of tourists for his generous and never-failing courtesy in permitting them the privilege of visiting this palace in which his father had passed many months of enjoyment4 ,it was from this residence that the poet ,browning wrote1 in ,october of #ahhj1 to a friend3-- ,every morning at six ,i see the sun rise2 far more wonderfully1 to my mind1 than his famous setting which everybody glorifies4 ,my bedroom window commands a perfect view2 the still1 gray lagune1 the few sea-gulls flying1 the islet of ,san ,giorgio in deep shadow and the clouds in a long purple rock behind which a sort of spirit of rose burns up till presently all the rims are on fire with gold1 and last of all the orb sends before it a long column of its own essence apparently2 so my day begins4 ,later1 of his son's palace1 ,mr4 ,browning wrote3-- ,have ,i told you that there is a chapel which he has restored in honor of his mother--putting up there the inscription by ,tommaseo1#c now above ,casa ,guidi in ,florence8 ,in this palace ,mr4 ,browning wrote some of his later poems1 and it may well be that it was when he was clad in his singing robes that he perhaps most deeply felt the ineffable charm of ,venice3-- ,for the stars help me1 and the sea bears part2 ,the very night is clinging ,closer to ,venice' streets to leave one space ,above me4444 ,it was from these lofty salons in the ,browning ,palace that the poet passed to the life more abundant on that ,december day of #ahhi1 on the very day that his last volume1 ,asolando1 was published and also the last volume of ,tennyson's4 ,regarding these ,mr4 ,gladstone said1 in a letter to ,lord ,tennyson3 ,the death of ,browning on the day of the appearance of your volume1 and we hear of one of his own1 is a touching event4 ,from the time of ,mrs4 ,browning's death in ,florence 7in ,june of #ahfa7 ,mr4 ,browning never felt that he could see ,italy again1 until the autumn of #ahgh1 when he1 with his sister1 ,miss ,sarianna ,browning1 came to ,venice by way of the ,italian lakes and ,verona4 ,at this time they only remained for a fortnight1 domiciled in the old ,palazzo ,brandolin-,rota1 which was transformed into the ,albergo dell',universo4 ,this palace was on the ,grand ,canal below the ,accadmia1 and here he returned through two or three subsequent years4 ,mr4 ,browning became very fond of ,venice1 and he explored its winding ways and gardens and knew it1 not merely from the gondola view1 but from the point of view of the curious little dark and narrow byways1 the bridges1 and the piazzas4 ,it was in #ahhj that ,mr4 ,browning first met1 through the kind offices of ,mr4 ,story1 a most charming and notable ,american lady1 ,mrs4 ,arthur ,bronson 7,katherine ,de,kay71 who had domiciled herself in ,casa ,alvisi1 an old palace on the ,grand ,canal opposite the ,church of ,santa ,maria della ,salute4 ,she was a woman of very interesting personality1 and had drawn about her a circle including many of the most distinguished people of her time1 authors1 artists1 poets1 and notable figures in the social world4 ,she was eminently simpatica and her lovely impulses of generous kindness were rendered possible to translate into the world of the actual by the freedom which a large fortune confers on its possessor4 ,between ,mrs4 ,bronson and ,mr4 ,browning there sprang up one of those rare and beautiful friendships that lasted during his lifetime1 and to her appreciation and many courtesies he owed much of the happiness of his later years4 ,in the autumn of #ahhj ,mrs4 ,bronson made ,mr4 ,browning and his sister her guests1 placing at their disposal a suite of rooms in the ,palazzo ,giustiniani ,recanati--a palace adjoining her own--and each night they dined and passed the evening with her1 with music and conversation to enchant the hours4 ,after ,mr4 ,browning's death1 ,mrs4 ,bronson was the friend whom all pilgrims to his shrine in ,venice felt it a special privilege to meet and to hear speak of him4 ,in her palace was a large easy-chair1 with a ribbon tied across the arms1 in which ,browning was accustomed to sit1 and which was held sacred to him4 ,mrs4 ,bronson was an accomplished linguist1 and the habitus of her salon represented many nationalities4 ,among these was the ,princess ,montenegro1 the mother of the present ,queen of ,italy4 ,it is little wonder that the ,browning ,palace was for so many years a focus for all who revered and loved the wedded poets1 ,robert and ,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning4 ,in the marble court1 roofed only by the blue ,venetian sky1 stood ,mr4 ,barrett ,browning's statue of ,dryope in bronze1 on its marble pedestal1--a beautiful conception of the ,dryope of ,keats1--the dweller in forest solitudes whom the ,hamadryads transformed into a poplar4 ,here a fountain makes music all day long1 and the court is also adorned in summer by great ,venetian jars of pink hydrangeas in full bloom4 ,the grand staircase1 with its carved balustrade and the wide landing where a rose window decorates the wall1 leads to the lofty salons which were yet as homelike as they were artistic during the residence of the ,brownings4 ,mr4 ,story's bust of ,mrs4 ,browning1 other portrait busts of both the poets1 sculptured by their artist son1 and by others1 and other memorials abound4 ,in the library were gathered many interesting volumes1 autographed from their authors1 and many rare and choice editions1 among which was one of the ,sonnets from the ,portuguese in a sumptuous volume whose artistic beauty found a fitting setting to ,mrs4 ,browning's immortal sonnets4 ,among other volumes were a collection of signed ,etchings by ,sir ,laurence ,alma-,tadema2 presentation copies from ,tennyson1 ,matthew ,arnold1 ,aubrey ,de ,vere1 ,walter ,savage ,landor1 and many another known to fame2 and a copy1 also1 of a study of ,mrs4 ,browning's poetry#d by an ,american writer4 ,there is one memento over which the visitor always smiled--a souvenir of a ,london evening in #ahee when the ,brownings had invited ,dante ,gabriel ,rossetti and his brother and ,lord ,madox ,brown to meet ,tennyson and listen to his reading of his new poem1 ,maud1 then still unpublished4 ,during the reading ,rossetti drew a caricature representing ,tennyson with his hair standing on end1 his eyes glowering and his hand theatrically extended1 as he held a manuscript inscribed1 ,i hate the dreadful hollow behind the little wood4 ,a reproduction of ,john ,singer ,sargent's painting1 ,the ,gypsy ,dance1 bore the inscription1 ,to mon ami1 ,browning4 ,from the library is a niche1 decorated in gold1 with memorial entablatures to the memory of ,mrs4 ,browning4 ,on the outer wall of the palace is an inscription that runs3-- ,robert ,browning died in this house #abth ,december1 #ahhi4 ,open my heart and you will see ,graven inside it ',italy4' ,there is a sadness in the fact that this palace1 consecrated to the memory of the immortal poets1 husband and wife1 has passed into the hands of strangers2 but that is a part of the play in a world in which we have no continuing city4 ,in the spring of #aije1 ,miss ,sarianna ,browning died in the home of her nephew1 near ,florence1 and her body was buried in the new ,protestant cemetery in that city2 the old one1 where all that was mortal of ,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning was laid to rest1 being now closed4 ,mr4 ,barrett ,browning1 in his ,tuscan villa1 is again dwelling near ,florence1 his native city1 which must forever hold to him its atmosphere of consecrated beauty as the beloved home of his mother1--the noblest and greatest of all woman poets4 ,the centenary of ,carlo ,goldoni was celebrated in ,venice in the spring of #aijg by the publication of all his works and a monograph on his life2 an exhibition of personal relics2 the presentation of one of his dramas set to music by ,baldassare ,galuppi1 the great ,venetian composer of his time1 and by a procession to lay a wreath of laurel on his monument in the ,campo ,san ,bartolommeo4 ,the drama given1 entitled the ,buranello1 was the last work of the author1 and it was presented in the theatre ,goldoni4 ,the ,municipal ,council of ,venice voted the sum of fifty thousand lire for the dition de luxe1 which consists of twenty volumes1 in octavo4 ,in each volume is a different portrait of ,goldoni1 facsimile of manuscripts1 and the reproduction of literary curiosities4 ,the monograph of ,goldoni was issued by the press of the ,venetian ,institute of ,graphic ,art in a limited number of copies4 ,it contains more than three hundred printed pages and a series of very interesting illustrations4 ,among these are the reproductions of ancient engravings which are most rare 7such as the view of the ,grimani ,theatre at ,san ,giovanni ,crisostomo1 a famous theatre existing in the days of the ,venetian republic1 but now demolished71 frontispieces of destroyed editions1 and other personal memorials4 ,the revival of the splendid work of the famous artist was one of the attractions of the festa of celebration4 ,the art exhibition of ,venice in this spring of #aijg was very picturesque4 ,one special salon was allotted to the artists of ,great ,britain1 and there was a fine loan collection of the portraits of ,english noblemen painted by ,mr4 ,sargent4 ,this salon was decorated with panels by ,frank ,brangwyn4 ,venice forever remains a dream1 a mirage1 an enchantment4 ,has it a recognized social life1 with seasons that come and go8 ,has it trade1 commerce1 traffic8 ,has it any existence save on the artist's canvas1 in the poet's vision8 ,has it a resident population to whom it is a home1 and not the pilgrimage of passionate pilgrims8 ,there are those who find this ,venice of all the year round a society of stately nobles whose ancestral claims are identified with the history of the city and who are at home in its palaces and gondolas1 but of this resident life the visitor is less aware than of that in any other city in ,italy4 ,for him it remains forever in his memory as the crowning glory of ,june evenings when the full1 golden moon hangs over towers and walls1 when gondolas freighted with ,venetian singers loom up out of the shadows and fill the air with melody that echoes as in dreams1 and that vanishes--one knows not when or where4 ,mr4 ,howells1 in his delightful ,venetian ,days1 has interpreted much of that life that the tourist never recognizes1 that eludes his sight2 and the ,dream ,city still1 to the visitor who comes and goes1 shrouds itself in myth and mystery4 ,one of the poetic visions of ,venice is that given in ,robert ,underwood ,johnson's ,browning at ,asolo 7inscribed to ,mrs4 ,arthur ,bronson71 of which the opening stanzas run3-- ,this is the loggia ,browning loved1 ,high on the flank of the friendly town2 ,these are the hills that his keen eye roved1 ,the green like a cataract leaping down ,to the plain that his pen gave new renown4 ,there to the ,west what a range of blue6-- ,the very background ,titian drew ,to his peerless ,loves4 ,o tranquil scene6 ,who than thy poet fondlier knew ,the peaks and the shore and the lore between8 ,see6 yonder's his ,venice--the valiant ,spire1 ,highest one of the perfect three1 ,guarding the others3 the ,palace choir1 ,the ,temple flashing with opal fire-- ,bubble and foam of the sunlit sea4 ,edgar ,fawcett1 always enchanted with his ,venetian days1 pictures the northern lagoon1 some six miles from ,venice1 as a revel of pastoral greenness1 with briery hedges1 numberless wild flowers and the most captivating of sinuous creeks1 overarched by an occasional bridge1 so old that you greet with respect every moss-grown inch of its drowsy and sagging brickwork4 ,the cathedral1 the ineludible cathedral of all ,italian settlements1 is reached after a short ramble1 and you enter it with mingled awe and amusement1 he continues4 ,some of its mosaics1 representing martyrs being devoured by flames and evidently enjoying themselves a great deal during this mortuary process1 challenge the disrespectful smile4 ,but others are vested with a rude yet sacred poetry1 and certain semi-,oriental marble sculptures1 adjacent to the altar1 would make an infidel feel like crossing himself for the crime of having yielded to a humorous twinge4 ,this duomo dates far back beyond the ,middle ,ages1 and so does the small ,church of ,santa ,fosca1 only a step away4 ,what renders ,torcello so individual among all the islands and islets of the lagoon1 ,i should say1 is her continual contrast between the ever-recurrent idyllicism of open meadows or wilding clusters of simple rustic thickets1 and the enormous antiquity of these two hoary ecclesiastic fanes4 ,history is in the air1 and you feel that the very daisies you crush underfoot1 the very copses from which you pluck a scented spray1 have their delicate rustic ancestries1 dating back to ,attila1 who is said once to have brought his destructive presence where now such sweet solemnity of desertion and quietude unmolestedly rules4 ,history and legend and art and romance meet and mingle to create that indefinable sorcery of ,venice4 ,it is like nothing on earth except a poet's dream1 and his poetic dream is of the ethereal realm4 ,the wonderful music that floats over the silver trail of still waters2 the mystic silences2 the resplendence of color1--all1 indeed1 weave themselves into an incantation of the gods2 it is the ineffable loveliness of ,paradise where the rose of morning glows and the ,june is always ,june1 and it is no more earth1 but a celestial atmosphere1--this glory of ,june in ,venice4 ,,footnotes3 #c ,this inscription and a description in detail of all the memorials of ,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning are given in full in a volume entitled ,a ,study of ,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning4 ,boston3 ,little1 ,brown1 ,co4 #d ,a ,study of ,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning4 ,little1 ,brown1 ,co4 ,dear ,italy6 ,the sound of thy soft name ,soothes me with balm of ,memory and ,hope4 ,mine1 for the moment1 height and sweep and slope ,that once were mine4 ,supreme is still the aim ,to flee the cold and gray ,of our ,december day1 ,and rest where thy clear spirit burns with unconsuming flame4 ,thou human-hearted land1 whose revels hold ,man in communion with the antique days1 ,and summon him from prosy greed to ways ,where ,youth is beckoning to the ,age of ,gold2 ,how thou dost hold him near ,and whisper in his ear ,of the lost ,paradise that lies beyond the alluring haze6 ,,robert ,,underwood ,,johnson4 ,great ideas create great peoples4 ,let your life be the living summary of one sole organic idea4 ,enlarge the horizon of the peoples4 ,liberate their conscience from the materialism by which it is weighed down4 ,set a vast mission before them4 ,rebaptize them4 ,,mazzini4 ,all parts array for the progress of souls3 all religion1 all solid things1 arts1 governments1--all that was or is apparent upon this globe1 or any globe1 falls into niches and comes before the procession of ,souls along the grand roads of the universe4444 ,of the progress of the souls of men and women along the grand roads of the universe1 all other progress is the needed emblem and sustenance4 ,,walt ,,whitman4 ,,vii ,,the ,,magic ,,land ,more than five hundred years have passed over the country of ,dante since the death of his mortal part--years of glory and of shame1 of genius and intolerable mediocrity1 of turbulent liberty and mortal servitude2 but the name of ,dante has remained1 and the severe image of the poet still rules the destinies of ,italian generations1 now an encouragement and now a reproach4 ,the splendor of no other genius has been able to eclipse or dim the grandeur of ,dante2 never has there been a darkness so profound that it could conceal this star of promise from ,italian eyes2 neither the profanations of tyrants and ,jesuits1 nor the violations of foreign invaders1 have been able to efface it4 ,sanctum ,poet nomen quod nunquam barbaries violavit4 ,,mazzini4 ,the true life of ,italy is not read in any record of contemporary facts or statistics4 ,mazzini once said of ,dante1 in an essay on the immortal poet1 that the life1 the true life of ,dante does not lie in the series of the material facts of his existence4 ,the life of ,dante consists in the sufferings and aspirations of his soul2 in its dominant impulses2 in the ceaseless development of the idea which was at once his guide1 inspiration1 and consolation2 in his belief as a man and as an ,italian4 ,the real life of ,italy is1 by analogy1 to be read in that atmosphere of aspiration and of noble purpose which characterizes the nation rather than in the material facts of its general progress at the present time4 ,as a country ,italy is young4 ,it is still less than forty years since her unity was declared1 and to merge the large number of separate ,states into one harmonious whole is a task requiring the evolutionary progress of time2 for a nation1 like a university1 cannot be a matter of instantaneous creation4 ,it must germinate and grow4 ,the country that1 previous to so comparatively a recent date as the year #ahgj1 was1 in the phrasing of ,prince ,metternich1 a geographical expression1 can hardly be judged by present national standards after an existence of only thirty-seven years1 although it need be said in no spirit of apology2 for ,italy is advancing in scientific development1 in manufactures1 and in the problems involved in civil and hydraulic engineering to a notable degree in the northern part4 ,milan and ,naples are separated by far more than geographical distance4 ,in modern progress ,milan is divided by centuries from all ,southern ,italy4 ,between ,italy and the ,united ,states the entente cordiale is not merely that of diplomatic and ceremonial courtesy1 but of an exceptional degree of mutually sympathetic comprehensions4 ,in noble ambitions and lofty purposes ,americans and ,italians are closely akin4 ,in zeal for contemporary scientific progress1 in an intense susceptibility to the glories of art1 and in hospitality to all that makes for progress1 both nations meet in mutual recognition4 ,of no people is it more deeply true than of ,americans that each man has two countries3 his own and ,italy4 ,the average traveller sees this fair land with a breadth and thoroughness seldom called into requisition elsewhere4 ,in ,england he is usually content with ,london1 the tour of the cathedral towns and the lake region of the poets4 ,france is summed up to him in ,paris and in the chateaux of outlying districts4 ,but ,italy beguiles the traveller into every lonely foot-trail in the mountains2 to every piazza grande of lonely hamlets1 isolated on a rocky hillside2 to every fortezza that crowns a mountain summit4 ,the unexplored byways of ,italy are magnetic in their fascination1 and one special source of congratulation on the part of those fortunate tourists who travel with their own motor car is that they are thus enabled to penetrate into untrodden byways in ,italy in a manner impossible to those who must depend entirely on the regulation railroad service4 ,all lovers of ,italy are devoted to these original tours of private exploration4 ,a recent trip to ,saracinesco1 in the region of ,tivoli1 was made by ,mrs4 ,stetson 7,grace ,ellery ,channing7 with her husband1 and in a descriptive record of the little journey into an unfrequented mountain region this paragraph occurs3-- ,roused by 'an awful rose of dawn' which turned every solemn slope to strange amber and amethyst1 we left that rocky eyrie next day1 returning by way of ,anticoli--beloved of artists4 ,and if the ascent had qualified us for ,alpine climbers1 the descent qualified us as members of the ,italian cavalry corps4 ,pictures of officers riding down the face of cliffs will never impress us again2 we know now it is the very simplest of 'stunts4' ,our way down was diversified by the tinkling of thousands of sheep-bells1 by the far too close proximity of bulls to ,maria's crimson headdress1 which nothing in the world would induce her to remove1 and by sundry meetings with relations1 long-unseen friends1 and strangers1 from whom we culled the whole register of deaths1 births1 marriages1 and happenings for a month past4 ,at last1 beside a little bridge near the railroad station1 ,leonardo addressed his ten-thousandth adjuration to ,beppino1 whose poor little legs trembled under him4 ,it was no longer1 ',ah1 sacred one6--don't you see ,anticoli6'--or 'the rock1' or whatever it might be2 now he said1 ',ah1 sacred one6--don't you comprehend8--the ,signora descends'--and ,beppino looked distinctly pleased4 ,here we demanded the reckoning1 skilfully evaded hitherto4 ',well--a franc for each beast1--and half a franc for the room1--the rest was nothing--a sciocchezza4' ,a franc apiece6--half a franc6--were we brigands that we should do this thing8 ,this typical picture of idyllic days in ,italy1 enjoyed in the impromptu excursion and trip1 reveals the delicacy of feeling and the sunny kindness that characterize the contadini and which imparts to any social contact with them a grace and sweetness peculiar to ,italian life4 ,there are parts of ,italy where it is still the ,middle ,ages and no hint of the twentieth century has yet penetrated4 ,the modern spirit has almost taken possession of ,rome2 it is largely in evidence in ,florence and even ,venice1 and it dominates ,milan2 but in most of the hill towns and in the little hamlets and lonely haunts where a house is perhaps improvised out of the primeval rock1 the prevailing life is still medival1 and only awakens on festa days into any semblance of activity4 ,somewhere1 away up in the hills1 several miles from ,pegli1--on the ,mediterranean coast near ,genoa1--is one of these sequestered little hill towns called ,acqua ,sacra4 ,the name is obvious1 indeed1 for the sound of the sacred water fills the air1 falling from every hillside and from the fountain of the acqua sacra by the church4 ,pilgrims come from miles around to drink of these waters4 ,each house in this remote little hamlet is of solid stone1 resembling a fortress on a small scale1 and the houses cling to the hillsides like mosses to a rock4 ,though far up in the mountains1 the hills rise around the hamlet like city walls1 as if the life of all the world were kept outside4 ,the unforeseen visit to these remote hamlets1 suddenly chancing upon some small centre of happy and half-idyllic life1 is one of the charms of tourist travel in this land of ineffable loveliness4 ,illustration3 ,,ruins ,,of ,,the ,,greek ,,theatre1 ,,taormina1 ,,sicily ,page #dbi ,the approach to ,italy1 by whatever direction1 by land or by sea1 one enters1 is one of magical beauty4 ,whether one enters from the ,mediterranean or from the ,adriatic1 or by means of the ,mont ,cenis1 the ,simplon1 or the ,st4 ,gothard pass1 through the sublime mountain wall1 each gateway is marvellous in attraction4 ,approaching from the seas that completely surround ,italy except on one side1 the almost undreamed-of splendor of ,naples1 ,genoa1 and ,venice1 as seen from off the shore1 exceeds all power of painter or poet to reproduce4 ,the precipitous coast of ,sicily2 the picturesque city of ,palermo2 the wonderful ruins of the ,greek theatre on the heights in ,taormina1--all enchant the tourist4 ,to anchor off ,naples1 in the beautiful bay1 serves the purpose of an hotel out at sea4 ,it is like living in ,venice--only more so6 ,by the little rowboats one may go1 at any moment1 to ,naples1 and it is more delightful than passing the days in the city itself4 ,for at night as one strolls or sits on deck what a picture is before the eye6 ,all ,naples1 on her semicircular shores1 with her terraced heights rising above1 defined in a blaze of electric lights6 ,genoa1 la ,superba1 is still more magnificent when seen from the sea2 and ,venice1 rising dream-enchanted1 completes the wonders of the approach by water4 ,as the new ,italy has not yet achieved any homogeneous unity1 ,naples1 ,rome1 ,florence1 ,venice1 and ,milan differ in their characteristics to such a degree that no general interpretation of the residents of any one would appropriately describe those of another4 ,paris and ,vienna hardly differ as much as do ,milan and ,rome2 and ,venice1 ,florence1 and ,rome1 each rich in art treasures1 have little else in common4 ,certain characteristics of each of the large cities reveal themselves prominently1 even to a superficial observer4 ,milan1 as has been said1 is a centre of activity1 as ,florence is of culture and accomplishments4 ,florence has the largest and the most choice circulating library in all ,italy and one that ranks among the best on the ,continent4 ,her galleries are treasure stores of art1 and her social life is unsurpassed--one might almost say unrivalled--in its fine quality4 ,music1 philosophic culture1 learning in all lines of research characterize ,florentine society4 ,education has always been regarded in ,florence as a matter of prime importance1 and when the government grant of funds is insufficient the sum is made up by private contributions1 so that the ,scuola del ,popolo gives free instruction1 yearly1 to eighteen hundred pupils1 in every branch of technical and art education4 ,this fact alone offers its own explanation of that general intelligence of the people which so impresses the visitor in ,florence4 ,but this is a municipal rather than national fact4 ,every special development in any direction in ,italy will always be found to be the characteristic of the city or locality1 not of the country as a whole2 and thus the unity of ,italy is still a political expression rather than a political fact4 ,it is a theory which is not yet developed into an experience4 ,italy is in the making4 ,practically1 she is the youngest of countries1 with less than forty years of experimental attempt at national life behind her4 ,not until #aiai will she have attained the first half century of her united life4 ,educational facilities1 inclusive of schools1 libraries1 and museums2 railroads1 telegraph and telephone service1 electric lighting and electric trams1--all the ways and means of the modern mechanism of life are1 inevitably1 in a nebulous state in ,italy4 ,the political situation is extremely interesting at the present time4 ,that the ,blacks and the ,whites are diametrically opposed to each other is in the nature of history rather than that of contemporary record or of prophecy2 and that this is a traditional attitude in this city of the ,csars is not a fact by any means unknown2 but the situation is complicated by the third party--the ,socialists--who1 by allying themselves with either1 would easily turn the scales and command the situation4 ,if they were ardent ,catholics and were advocates of the ,papal supremacy1 the temporal power of the ,pope would be restored in less time almost than could be recorded1 and ,pius ,x would be in residence in the ,palazzo ,quirinale rather than ,victor ,emanuele ,,iii4 ,but this great modern uprising in ,italy--a movement that is gathering force and numbers so rapidly that no one can venture to prophesy results even in the comparatively immediate future--this great modern movement is neither for church nor state4 ,the ,socialist uprising is very strong in ,milan and through ,northern ,italy4 ,it is much in evidence in the ,umbrian region--in ,foligno1 ,spoleto1 ,nervi1 and those towns2 and from ,frascati to ,genzano and in the ,lake ,nemi chain of villages--,rocca di ,papa1 ,castel ,gandolpho1 ,ariccia1 ,albano--these villages within some fifteen miles of ,rome4 ,in these there is a veritable stronghold of ,socialism1 where its purposes and policy are entrenched4 ,yet when one alludes to its policy1 the term is rather too definite4 ,if it had a settled and well-formulated policy on which all its adherents were in absolute accord they would carry all before them4 ,but ,socialism is still a very elastic term and covers1 if not a multitude of sins1 at least a multitude of ideas and ideals4 ,there is now a rumor that the situation is forcing the absolutely inconceivable union of church and state--of the ,vatican and the ,quirinale--that they may thus withstand their common foe4 ,a more amazing and extraordinary turn of affairs could not be imagined2 and if the rumor 7which is now becoming more coherent in ,rome7 should prove to be the forerunner of any truth1 the situation will be one of the most amazing in all history4 ,illustration3 ,,ponte ,,vecchio1 ,,florence ,page #dcj ,epoch-making events in the course of progress are always preceded by circumstances that form to them a natural approach and chain of causation4 ,they are the results of which the causes stretch backward in the past4 ,one of the things that has an incalculably determining influence on the present situation is that of the character of the present ,pope4 ,his ,holiness1 ,pius ,x1 brings to the ,papacy an entirely new element4 ,he is no ascetic or exclusive ecclesiastic2 he is no diplomat or intriguant1 but rather a simple1 kindly man1 of a simplicity totally unprecedented in the annals of the ,palazzo ,vaticano4 ,instead of clinging with unswerving intensity of devotion to the idea of the restoration of the temporal power of the church1 ,pope ,pius ,x would not be disinclined to the uniting of church and state as in ,england2 the ,vatican to remain1 like the ,see of ,canterbury1 the acknowledged head of the spiritual power1 while the ,quirinale remained the head of the government to which the church should give its political adherence1 the ,quirinale in return giving to the ,vatican its religious adherence4 ,perhaps it is not too much to say that something not unlike this might easily become--if it is not already--the dream of ,pius ,x4 ,but in the mean time there is another factor with which to reckon1 and that is the present ,papal ,secretary of ,state1 ,cardinal ,merry del ,val4 ,he it is who really holds the mystic key of ,st4 ,peter's4 ,he is a diplomatist1 an ecclesiastic1 an embodiment of all that is severe and archaic in authority4 ,the ,pope is by no means able to set his course by his own watch-lights4 ,the ,college of ,cardinals surrounds him1 and the ,college of ,cardinals is practically one ,cardinal1 the keen scholar and the all determining ,cardinal ,merry del ,val1 whose personality dominates the court of the ,vatican4 ,this remarkable prelate represents the most advanced and progressive thought of the day in many ways1--as has been noted in preceding pages1--but as a ,jesuit he is unalterably devoted to what he considers the only ideal1--the restoration of the temporal power of the ,pope4 ,spain revealed her attitude when ,king ,alphonso asked of all the monarchs of ,europe that the name of each should be borne by his infant son1 the heir-apparent2 and for ,italy he asked the name of the ,pope and not of the ,king1 thus recognizing ,pius ,x rather than ,victor ,emmanuel ,,iii as the head of the nation4 ,that the ,socialists have very logical and serious grounds for complaint is true4 ,that their leader1 ,signor ,enrico ,ferri1 an ,italian journalist and a ,senator1 is one of the most able men in ,italy since the time of ,cavour is equally undeniable4 ,the ,socialists are fortunate1 too1 in other leading men4 ,turati1 the editor of the ,critica ,sociale1 ,pantaleoni1 ,colajanni1 and others are absolutely the hope of ,italy at the present time in the struggle for better conditions4 ,for the conditions of life in ,italy1 as regards taxation1 the problems of transit1 the government restrictions on agricultural production and on manufactures1 are absolutely intolerable and should not be endured for a day4 ,the taxation is so exorbitant that it is a marvel ,italy is not depopulated4 ,on land the tax rate is from thirty to fifty per cent2 the income tax is not merely1 as one would suppose1 levied on a legitimate income derived from a man's possessions1 but is levied on salaries1 ranging from ten to twenty per cent of these1 and also1 not content with this unheard-of extortion1 the tax is levied on the nature and source of his salary1 and even the smallest wage is thus subject to an income tax4 ,again1 there is a most absurd tax on salt1 which1 like sugar and tobacco1 is held as a government monopoly4 ,no poor person living on the seacoast in ,italy is allowed to take even a pail of water from the sea to his house1 as the government assumes that1 by evaporation1 it might yield a few grains of salt4 ,the tax on sugar effectually checks an industry that might be made most profitable1 that of putting up fruit in jams1 jellies1 and compote1 and renders the price of these commodities absurdly high4 ,again1 when taxes are paid the process is even worse than the unjust and exorbitant tax itself4 ,no one is allowed to send a check or postal order2 no tax gatherer calls at the home or the office4 ,each person must go himself or send a personal representative to a given place between certain hours4 ,here stand a long procession1 each person in town going up1 filling out pages of written formalities2 talking of each item and discussing it according to the national custom1 until the office hours are over for that day1 and often not one-fourth of the persons waiting have been served4 ,all then must take their chances the next day1 and perhaps even a third or a fourth day1--a loss of time and energy that in no other country would be tolerated for a moment4 ,but time has not yet any recognizable value in ,italy4 ,every enterprise and manufacture is taxed in ,italy1 and as the returns of these are inevitably revealed so that no evasion is possible1 and as the exactions of the government consume nearly all the profits1 the result is that all business enterprises are discouraged and that ,italy swarms with a great idle population1 while nearly all articles and supplies are imported from other countries1 with the payment of enormous duties1 making their cost far greater1 proportionately1 than their value4 ,there are great tracts of country in ,southern ,italy suitable for tobacco raising1 but 7as it is one of the government monopolies7 people are forbidden to raise it2 and in private gardens only three plants are permitted4 ,again1 all industries are crippled1 if not paralyzed1 by the tax at the frontier1 and also by the tax at every gate of every city4 ,at every porta in ,rome are stationed government officers who scrutinize every box1 basket1 and package2 and all fruit1 eggs1 garden stuff1 milk1 and commodities of every kind are taxed as they are brought inside the walls4 ,the railroads of ,italy are1 at present1 very poor in all facilities of transit4 ,within a year the ,italian government has taken over these roads and better conditions are promised1 which are1 alas6 not yet in sight4 ,there are many counts to the indictment against the ,italian railroads which are only suitable to adorn the very lowest circles of the ,inferno described by ,dante4 ,they are uncleanly2 the roadbeds are so rough that the miserably built compartments jolt and jostle over the tracks2 the seats are so high that the feet can hardly touch the floor1 and the facilities for light and air are as badly managed as is possible to conceive4 ,as is well known1 these are divided into first1 second1 and third class1 these compartments all being in the same train1 and between the first and second there is little difference save that of price4 ,curiously1 the price of even second-class travelling in ,italy is over half a cent a mile higher than that of the splendid trains in ,america1 with their swift time1 their smooth roadbeds1 their admirable conveniences in every way4 ,again1 no luggage is carried free1 and the prices asked for it are extortionate beyond words4 ,one may check all his impedimenta from ,san ,francisco to ,new ,york without extra charge2 but in going from ,rome to ,naples1 or from ,florence to ,genoa to sail1 the same luggage will cost from six to eight dollars to convey it to the steamer4 ,again1 these railroads pay their employs so poorly that only the most inefficient service can be retained at all2 only those persons who are the absolute prisoners of poverty will consent to accept such meagrely paid service4 ,the ,italian government consists1 like that of most countries1 of an upper and lower house1 the ,senate and the ,house of ,deputies4 ,but the former is rather a matter of miscellaneous honors than one of political initiative4 ,there is no limit to the number of ,senators2 they are created by being named by the ,king1 and the office is for life4 ,if a man attracts the favorable notice of the ,king1--because he is a good artist1 engineer1 archologist1 chemist1 or financier1--presto1 he is liable to be made a ,senator4 ,canova1 the celebrated sculptor1 was made a ,senator because1 indeed1 he was a great artist6 ,there is one condition1 however1 that a ,senator must be one who pays annually not less than three thousand lire in taxes4 ,the ,senators receive no salary1 and their times of meeting are uncertain and no man's presence is obligatory4 ,the ,house of ,deputies has five hundred and eight members1 all of whom must be ,italian subjects over thirty years of age4 ,they have no salary1 but are given the entire freedom of the realm in all transit on railroads and steamers4 ,the ,chamber of ,deputies is largely made up of professional men1 and it is little wonder that the ,socialists are demanding an entire reform in the government of the country4 ,there was never in any country more defective conditions than now prevail in ,italy4 ,the very fact that the young ,king is an estimable gentleman1 who is personally not in the least to blame for the prevailing status of unfortunate conditions1 is in one way an added misfortune1 as the personal loyalty he justly inspires militates by so much against the revolution in government which is so deeply a necessity of ,italy before her better and more prosperous life can begin4 ,it is now a country of stagnation4 ,all ,southern and ,central ,italy simply lives off its tourists2 and every year prices and fees and extortion in general from the visitors to ,italy become greater4 ,senator ,enrico ,ferri1 the leader of ,socialism in ,italy1 was born in #ahef in ,mantua4 ,he had a university education1 was admitted to the bar1 and in #ahha was called to the chair of penal law in the ,university of ,bologna4 ,the ,senator is a scientific ,socialist1--a man of the most exceptional gifts and qualities1 and the author of a noted work1 entitled ,criminal ,sociology1 which is translated into several languages4 ,senators ,ferri and ,lombroso are special friends and also co-workers4 ,on taking his seat in the ,university of ,bologna1 ,professor ,ferri delivered a lecture1 entitled ,new ,horizons in ,penal ,law1 which was a most impressive effort4 ,in it he said3-- ,it was in this inaugural discourse that ,i affirmed the existence of the positivist school of criminal law1 and assigned to it these two fundamental rules3 ,first1 while the classical schools of criminal law have always studied the crime and neglected the criminal1 the object of the positivist school was1 in the first place1 to study the criminal1 so that1 instead of the crime being regarded merely as a juridical fact1 it must be studied with the aid of biology1 of psychology1 and of criminal statistics as a natural and social fact1 transforming the old criminal law into a criminal sociology4 ,secondly1 while the classical schools1 since ,beccaria and ,howard1 have fulfilled the historic mission of decreasing the punishments as a reaction from the severity of the medival laws1 the object of the positivist school is to decrease the offence by investigating its natural and social causes in order to apply social remedies more efficacious and more humane than the penal counteraction1 always slow in its effects1 especially in its cellular system1 which ,i have called one of the aberrations of the nineteenth century4 ,such is the man to whom it is no extravagance to allude as one of the present leaders of progress in ,italy4 ,he is in the early prime of mature life2 he is a man of education1 culture1 great original gifts1 and of sympathies with humanity as wise and judicious as they are liberal and all-embracing4 ,scientific ,socialism tolerates no lawlessness1 no violence1 nor does it1 like the so-called ,christian ,socialism1 attempt to graft impossible conditions on society4 ,it regards the laws of economics1 and it is practicable and possible as well as considerate and just4 ,and the great inspirer1 proclaimer1 and leader of scientific ,socialism is ,enrico ,ferri4 ,italy not only inspires the enthusiasm of the lover of beauty in nature and art1 she inspires a vital and abiding interest in all that shall make for her true progress1 and she inspires1 as well1 absolute faith in her ultimate future4 ,at present her monarchy is among the most liberal and progressive of ,europe4 ,king ,victor ,emmanuel is a man of integrity1 of intelligence1 and of devotion to the best interests of his country as he understands these interests to be4 ,if they might be better served by a more democratic form of government1 it is hardly to be asked or expected that such a view should present itself to an hereditary monarch4 ,among the most liberal element there are not wanting men who believe that for the immediate future the present form of government is the most feasible4 ,in their conviction ,italy is by no means prepared to be a republic4 ,the masses of the people are uneducated2 and a great work1 requiring time1 must be effected in the popularization of intelligence and of instruction1 before democratic government could be adopted4 ,yet there is no faltering in the outlook on a glorious future4 ,the noble words of ,mazzini still ring in the ,italian air3 ,walk in faith1 and fear not4 ,believe1 and you will conquer4 ,by way of enforcing his convictions ,mazzini said3-- ,upon a day in the sixteenth century1 at ,rome1 some men bearing the title of ,inquisitors1 who assumed to derive wisdom and authority from ,god himself1 were assembled to decree the immobility of the earth4 ,a prisoner stood before them4 ,his brow was illumined by genius4 ,he had outstripped time and mankind1 and revealed the secret of a world4 ,it was ,galileo4 ,the old man shook his bold and venerable head4 ,his soul revolted against the absurd violence of those who sought to force him to deny the truths revealed to him by ,god4 ,but his pristine energy was worn down by long suffering and sorrow2 the monkish menace crushed him4 ,he strove to submit4 ,he raised his hand1 he too1 to declare the immobility of the earth4 ,but as he raised his hand1 he raised his weary eyes to that heaven they had searched throughout long nights to read thereon one line of the universal law2 they encountered a ray of that sun which he so well knew motionless amid the moving spheres4 ,remorse entered his heart3 an involuntary cry burst from the believer's soul3 ,eppur si muove6 and yet it moves4 ,three centuries have passed away4 ,inquisitors1--inquisition1--absurd theses imposed by force1--all these have disappeared4 ,naught remains but the well-established movement of the earth1 and the sublime cry of ,galileo floating above the ages4 ,child of ,humanity1 raise thy brow to the sun of ,god1 and read upon the heavens3 ,it moves4 ,faith and action6 ,the future is ours4 ,poetry1 added ,mazzini1 will teach the young the nobleness of sacrifice1 of constancy1 and silence2 of feeling one's self alone without despairing1 in an existence of suffering unknown or misunderstood2 in long years of bitterness1 wounds1 and delusion1 endured without murmur or lament2 it will teach them to have faith in things to come1 and to labor unceasingly to hasten their coming1 even though without hope of living to witness their triumph2 and his final word in this great invocation to the new potencies of the opening future is an exhortation to believe in all greatness and goodness4 ,faith1 he said1 which is intellect1 energy1 and love1 will put an end to the discords existing in a society which has neither church nor leaders2 which invokes a new world1 but forgets to ask its secret1 its ,word1 from ,god4 ,in universal education must lie the first national aid to the development of ,italy4 ,l'anima del gran mondo l'allegria4 ,as ,florence is pre-eminently the city of culture1 so is ,milan of activities4 ,her keynote is modernit4 ,the visitor is at once impressed by her energy1 her enterprise1 and her commercial prosperity4 ,milan has the best municipal facilities and conveniences in all ,italy4 ,the electric lighting of streets1 public buildings1 and residences1 the street transit1 the arrangement and conduct of shops and all industrial matters1 are in such contrast to any other city in ,italy as to lead the sojourner to ask himself whether he can still be on the southern side of the ,alpine range4 ,in the ,galleria ,vittorio ,emanuele ,milan has the most wonderful structure in all ,europe4 ,this arcade was built in #ahfe1 and under the magnificent glass dome it includes nearly one hundred of the most attractive and well-stocked shops1 bazaars1 and establishments4 ,the dome is decorated with frescoes and caryatides1 and with the statues of numbers of eminent men1 among whom are ,dante1 ,raphael1 ,savonarola1 and ,cavour4 ,the offices and banks in ,milan are centres of incessant energy4 ,for all this stress of activity the visitor does not1 however1 forget the art features2 the visit to the antique ,church of ,st4 ,ambrosio2 to the old convent where ,leonardo da ,vinci's celebrated fresco1 ,the ,last ,supper1 is to be seen1 though so faded that it is now difficult to discern all the figures4 ,nor does he fail to climb the wonderful cathedral that lifts its airy grace1 as if about to float upward in the skies4 ,every flight of the steps1 in the ascent1 brings one to a new vision of beauty4 ,on the roof of this cathedral one wanders as in a very forest of sculpture4 ,its scheme of decoration includes more than two thousand statues1 two of which are by ,canova4 ,from the summit1 when the air is clear1 there are beautiful views of the ,alps4 ,to the savant and scholar the ,ambrosian library in ,milan is one of the special treasures of ,europe4 ,it contains some of the most rare and valuable manuscripts in the entire world1--some of ,virgil's with annotations from ,petrarcha2 a manuscript of ,dante's2 drawings by ,leonardo da ,vinci1 and other interesting matters of which no other copies exist4 ,the ,magic ,land is seen under its most bewitching spell in the region of the ,italian lakes4 ,the palace of ,isola ,bella2 the charming gardens2 the lake of ,como1 green-walled in hills whose luxuriant foliage and bloom form a framework for the white villas that cluster on their terraced slopes1--all form a very fairyland of ethereal1 rose-embowered beauty4 ,at night the lakes are a strange1 unreal world of silver lights and shadows4 ,the completion of the ,simplon tunnel has opened between ,italy and ,paris a route not only offering swifter facilities for transit1 but adding another to the regions of beauty4 ,this route has also still further increased the commercial importance of ,milan1 the portal and metropolis of ,northern ,italy4 ,milan has become the national centre of all scientific and technical pursuits1 and it is fairly the ,mecca for young men of ,central and ,southern ,italy who are entering into the professions1 or into civil and electrical engineering and other of the technical arts and industries4 ,bologna1 with her historic ,university1 with the long covered arcades of the streets1 the fountain1 which is the work of ,giovanni di ,bologna1 and the gallery where many of ,guido's best works are placed1 has its individual interest for the tourist2 and ,verona1 ,pavia1 ,modena1 ,parma1 and ,turin all repay a visit from the leisurely saunterer in ,italy4 ,pisa offers to the visitor four interesting architectural monuments in the ,duomo1 the ,baptistery1 the ,leaning ,tower1 and the ,campo ,santo1 all of which are unique4 ,the cathedral has unique designs in its black and white marbles that render it almost as much an object of artistic study as is the cathedral in ,siena4 ,the view from the summit of the ,leaning ,tower reveals the ,mediterranean six miles in the distance1 gleaming like a sea of silver4 ,the ,campo ,santo dates from the thirteenth century1 when the earth of which it is composed was brought 7in #abbh7 from the holy places in ,jerusalem1 conveyed to the city 7then a seaport7 by fifty galleys sent out by the ,republic of ,pisa4 ,the interior walls of the ,campo ,santo are covered with fresco paintings by ,orcagna which are one of the artistic spectacles of the country in their extravagant portrayal of theological beliefs1 so realistically presented in their dramatic scenes from ,paradise and from ,hades1 as to leave nothing to the imagination4 ,the fantasies in this emblematic sculpture of memorial monuments over a period of seven hundred years can be seen in the ,campo ,santo of ,pisa1--a strange and often a most grotesque medley4 ,genoa is well named ,la ,superba4 ,her thoroughfares are streets of palaces4 ,her terraced gardens and villas1 reached by the subterranean funicular street railway1 are regions of unique and incomparable beauty1 with the blue ,mediterranean at their feet4 ,genoa is the paradise for walking4 ,the streets are largely inaccessible to carriages1 but the admirable street electric railway penetrates every locality4 ,it passes in dark tunnels under the hills1 reappears on the high terraces1 and climbs every height4 ,from the crest of one of these ,corsica can often be seen4 ,all the hill-slopes are a dream of pictorial grandeur1 with their terraces1 their palaces1 their sculpture1 fountains1 and flowers4 ,on the summit of almost every hill there is a fortress1 and often ramparts which are silhouetted1 in dark masses1 against the sky4 ,orange groves abound on the terraces1 often showing the golden fruit1 buds1 and blossoms all at the same time4 ,genoa is fairly a metropolis of sculpture4 ,the great families have themselves perpetuated in portrait statues rather than in painted portraits4 ,in one of the grand ducal palaces in the ,via ,balbi the visitor may see1 not only the life-size statues and the busts of the family ancestry1 but one group comprising nine figures1 where three generations are represented1 in both sitting and standing poses1 ingeniously combined4 ,the churches of ,genoa are among the richest in ,europe4 ,that of the ,annunziata1 the special monument of the ,lomellini family1 glitters and gleams with its gold ceilings and rich frescoes4 ,the cathedral has the special allurement of the emerald dish which ,king ,solomon received as a gift from the ,queen of ,sheba4 ,the little street of the jewellers is an alluring place1--so narrow that one can almost stand in the centre of the road and touch the shop windows on either hand1 and these windows dazzle the eye with their fascinating glitter of gold and silver filigree work and their rich jewels4 ,illustration3 ,,campo ,,santo1 ,,genoa ,page #dec ,beyond all other curious excursions that even a ,magic ,land can offer is that to the ,campo ,santo of ,genoa4 ,a cloistered promenade encloses a square1 and above are terraced colonnades1 each and all revealing statues1 and monuments1 and groups of sculpture whose varied beauty1 oddity1 or bizarre effects are a curious study4 ,some memorials--as one of an angel with outstretched wings2 another of a flight of angels bearing the soul away2 another combining the figure of ,christ with the cross1 and angels hovering near--are full of beauty4 ,others are a marvel of ingenious and incongruous combination4 ,one of the latter represents the man whose memory it commemorates as lying on his bed in his last illness2 the physician stands by1 his fingers on the patient's pulse2 on the opposite side a maid is approaching with a dish holding some article of food1 and near the physician are grouped the wife1 with a little child clinging to her skirts2 the son1 holding his hat with both hands and looking down on it1 and the daughter1 a young girl1 with her eyes raised to heaven4 ,each of these figures is in life size2 the bed is reproduced in marble1 with the pillows and all the coverings in the most absolute realism1 and the entire effect is so startling in its bizarre aspect that one could hardly believe in its existence until by personal observation he had verified so singular a monument4 ,yet there is beauty and symbolic loveliness1 too1 in many of the memorial sculptures of this ,campo ,santo1 and turning away from this cemetery in which lies the body of the noble ,mazzini1 one hears on the air the refrain of his words on ,dante3-- ,it appeared to him of more importance to hasten to accomplish his mission upon earth1 than to meditate upon the inevitable hour which marks for all men the beginning of a new task4 ,and if at times he speaks of weariness of life1 it is only because he sees evil more and more triumphant in the places where his mission was appointed4 ,he concerned himself1 not about the length or the shortness of life1 but about the end for which life was given2 for he felt ,god in life1 and knew the creative virtue there is in action4 ,eighty thousand people followed ,mazzini to his tomb1 and his name lives in the ,italy of to-day as one to be associated with that of ,dante as prophet and inspirer4 ,the enchantment of approaching ,genoa from the sea at night is an experience to remain as one of the pictorial treasures of memory4 ,the magnificent lanterna1 the lighthouse with its revolving light1 that can be seen for fifty miles out from the coast2 the brilliant illumination defining the fortezza on the summit of one hill2 the curving lights of the terraced residential district and the illumination of the very forest of shipping clustered in the bay1--all combine into a scene not easily effaced from the memories of foreign scenes4 ,it is only in close relations with ,italian literature that ,italy can be adequately enjoyed and that the sojourner may enter into sympathetic associations with contemporary ,italian life4 ,dr4 ,richard ,garnett believes that the literature of ,italy is a less exhaustive manifestation than elsewhere of the intellect of the nation1 and that the best energies of the country are employed in artistic production4 ,it is1 indeed1 remarkable1 he continues1 that out of the nine ,italians most brilliantly conspicuous in the first rank of genius and achievement1--,aquinas1 ,dante1 ,columbus1 ,leonardo1 ,michael ,angelo1 ,raphael1 ,titian1 ,galileo1 ,napoleon1--only one should have been a man of letters4 ,contemporary ,italian literature follows the trend of the day in reflecting the life of the people4 ,the novels of ,fogazzaro1 the poems of ,carducci1 the biography and history written by ,villari1 to say nothing of several other writers who1 while not approaching these authors1 have still a definite place in the literature of the present1 offer illumination on the outer scenery of life1 and offer interpretation of the life itself4 ,art has declined2 literature has advanced in ,italy1 even within the past decade4 ,the law of progress is as inevitable as is the law of gravitation4 ,onward the chariot of the ,unvarying moves2 ,nor day divulges him nor night conceals2 ,thou hear'st the echo of unreturning hooves1 ,and thunder of irrevocable wheels4 ,the future of ,italy inspires faith in the renewal of its noblest ideals of achievement4 ,its ineffable beauty is a heritage of joy to every visitor who comes under the indescribable spell of its attraction and finds that1 in all the panorama of foreign life which haunts his memory1 it is ,italy which shines resplendent as the ,magic ,land6 ,,index ,accademia des ,arcades1 ,rome1 #ccd4 ,accadmia di ,san ,luca1 oldest art school1 #dd2 location of1 #de2 galleries of1 #df1 #dg1 #dh4 ,acqua ,sacra1 #dbh4 ,akers1 ,paul1 in ,rome1 #aj2 early death of1 #ec2 work of1 #ed1 #ee2 quoted1 #ef2 ,hawthorne's estimate of1 #eg4 ,aldrich1 ,thomas ,bailey1 quoted1 #chg4 ,allen1 ,elizabeth ,akers1 quoted1 #ec4 ,amalfi1 #bec-beg2 destruction of1 #beh1 #bei4 ,ambrosian library1 ,milan1 #ddi4 ,american ,academy1 ,rome1 #bad4 ,american ,embassy1 ,rome1 location of1 #aec2 ball at1 #afd-afg2 receptions at1 #afi4 ,anderson1 ,hendrick ,christian1 in ,rome1 #aj4 ,angelo1 ,michael1 work of1 #bb1 #bc1 #cab2 message of1 #aag2 friendship with ,vittoria ,colonna1 #bij2 ,longfellow's poem on1 #cjh-caj2 art of1 #cac1 #cad2 quoted1 #cad1 #caf1 #cag1 #cah1 #cbc2 gift to ,vittoria ,colonna1 #cah2 meeting with ,francesco d',ollanda1 #cbb1 #cbc1 #cbd2 ,walter ,pater's estimate of1 #cbg1 #cbh1 #cbi4 ,annunziata ,cathedral1 ,genoa1 #deb4 ,aquinas1 ,thomas1 birthplace of1 #bgf2 tomb of1 #cca2 monastery of1 #ccc4 ,aquinum1 #bgg4 ,arcadians1 meetings of1 #aej4 ,ariosto1 #cjf4 ,art1 as leader of popular taste1 #aae2 inspired by religious ideals1 #aaf2 ,renaissance in1 #aag2 national importance of1 #aag2 ignored1 #aah2 relation to ugliness1 #aai2 falseness of1 #aba2 influence on life1 #abb2 united with religion1 #abc4 ,assisi1 pilgrimage to1 #cda1 #cdd2 founding of1 #cde2 points of interest in1 #cde1 #cdf2 ,canon ,knox ,little's description of1 #cdh2 as a shrine1 #che4 ,assisi1 ,bishop of1 #ced1 #cfd4 ,assisi1 ,st4 ,francis of1 #abc1 #abd2 message of1 #cdb2 birthplace of1 #cde2 impress of1 #cdg2 parents of1 #cdh1 #cdi2 early life of1 #cej2 legends regarding1 #cea2 quoted1 #ceb1 #ced1 #cef2 supreme aim of1 #cec2 ,rule of1 #cec1 #ced2 prayer of1 #cef2 character of1 #ceg2 incident in early life of1 #cfj2 first ministry of1 #cfc2 first disciple of1 #cfd2 at the ,portiuncula1 #cfe2 friendship with ,clara1 #cfe1 #cfg1 #cfh2 legends regarding1 #cgj2 death of1 #cgb2 miracles of1 #cge2 tomb of1 #cgh4 ,bagot1 ,richard1 in ,rome1 #aa1 #ac4 ,baia1 #bda4 ,baldwin1 ,rev4 ,dr41 in ,rome1 #aj1 #aga4 ,ball1 ,thomas1 work of1 #eb4 ,balzac1 quoted1 #abj4 ,barberini1 ,cardinal1 #gb4 ,baths of ,caracalla1 #aci4 ,baths of ,diocletian1 #ahd4 ,bell1 ,john1 grave of1 #baf4 ,bembo1 ,cardinal1 #cjf4 ,benedictines1 #ced1 #cfe4 ,benton1 ,dwight1 grave of1 #bba2 estimate of1 #bba4 ,bernardino of ,siena1 #chb1 #chc2 quoted1 #chc4 ,bernini1 ,lorenzo1 work of1 #bb4 ,besant1 ,mrs4 ,annie1 #agd4 ,biblioteca ,sarti1 #dh4 ,blacks1 #ade1 #adf4 ,bologna1 #dej4 ,bonaparte1 ,princess ,christina1 death of1 #bjc4 ,boni1 ,commendatore1 opinion of1 #bdd4 ,boni1 ,giovanni ,m41 #djc4 ,bronson1 ,mrs4 ,arthur1 #dji1 #daj4 ,brooks1 ,rev4 ,phillips1 in ,rome1 #ae2 quoted1 #af1 #ci1 #chh1 #cid1 #cie4 ,brownell1 ,w4 ,c41 quoted1 #if4 ,browning1 ,elizabeth ,b41 in ,rome1 #aa2 quoted1 #fj1 #aad1 #abe1 #chi2 death of1 #hj1 #djh2 meeting with ,mrs4 ,bronson1 #daj1 #daa4 ,browning ,palace1 #djf1 #daj1 #daa1 #dab1 #dac4 ,browning1 ,robert1 quoted1 #c1 #djg1 #djh2 in ,rome1 #aa1 #gj2 in ,venice1 #djf2 death of1 #djh4 ,browning1 ,miss ,sarianna1 #djh1 #dac4 ,buono1 #bcf4 ,byron1 ,lord1 in ,rome1 #bb2 quoted1 #bb1 #djc4 ,campagna1 #gc1 #bje4 ,campanile1 fall of1 #djf4 ,campo ,verano1 #gf4 ,campo ,santo of ,pisa1 #dej1 #dea1 #dec4 ,campidoglio1 buildings on1 #be4 ,campriani1 #bcg4 ,canova1 in ,rome1 #g2 his genius1 #cc2 masterpiece of1 #db2 realism of1 #aah4 ,capella ,sistina1 #bg4 ,capo ,miseno1 #bda4 ,capri1 island of1 #bfb1 #bfc1 #bfd2 roses of1 #bff4 ,capuano1 ,cardinal1 legends of1 #bef4 ,capuccini1 convent of1 #bee4 ,carducci1 #adc4 ,carter1 ,professor ,jesse ,benedict1 in ,rome1 #afi4 ,carter1 ,mrs4 ,jesse ,benedict1 #cd1 #cg1 #afi4 ,casa ,buonarroti1 #cab4 ,casino ,borghese1 #ahe4 ,castel d',ischia1 #bib1 #bic1 #bid4 ,castellammare1 #bej4 ,castle ,gandolfo1 #bhf4 ,castiglione1 #cjf4 ,cecioni's ,la ,madre1 #aba4 ,cestius1 ,caius1 tomb of1 #bae4 ,channing1 ,grace ,ellery1 #aj1 #ia4 ,chapel of ,holy ,sacrament1 #bjb4 ,chateaubriand1 in ,rome1 #ba2 quoted1 #ba4 ,cicero's villa1 remains of1 #bjg4 ,cimabue1 #cgf1 #cgh4 ,cole1 ,thomas1 in ,rome1 #i4 ,coleman1 ,charles ,caryl1 home of1 #bfc4 ,college of ,cardinals1 #dce4 ,colonna1 ,fabrizio1 #bij4 ,colonna family1 #bhe1 #bhh1 #bhi1 #cjf1 #cjg4 ,colonna palace and gardens1 #aca4 ,colonna1 ,vittoria1 home of1 #bhb2 quoted1 #bhc1 #cjc2 parents of1 #bhe2 early childhood of1 #bhf1 #bhh2 horoscope of1 #bhi2 destiny of1 #bij2 betrothal of1 #bij2 marriage of1 #bid1 #bie2 early married life of1 #bie1 #bif2 quoted1 #big1 #bih1 #cjj1 #cjc1 #cje1 #cai1 #cbj1 #cba2 in ,pope ,leo's court1 #cjb2 her husband's death1 #cjb2 removal of1 #cjd2 fame of1 #cjf2 return to ,rome of1 #cjg2 ,longfellow's picture of1 #cjh1 #cji1 #caj1 #cbe1 #cbf1 #cbg2 travels of1 #cjh1 #caa2 her influence with ,michael ,angelo1 #cac2 life in ,rome and ,orvieto1 #cad2 receives letters and sonnet from ,michael ,angelo1 #cag2 receives present from ,michael ,angelo1 #cah2 arranges meeting of ,michael ,angelo and ,francesco d',ollanda1 #cbb1 #cbc1 #cbd2 ,walter ,pater's comments on1 #cbh2 death of1 #cbi2 last prayer of1 #ccj2 burial of1 #cca2 tomb of1 #ccb2 bust of1 #ccd2 fame of1 #cce1 #ccf2 ,margaret ,j4 ,preston's poem on1 #ccg4 ,condivi1 quoted1 #cac4 ,contarini1 ,cardinal1 #cjf4 ,corsini chapel1 #aeb4 ,crawford1 ,marion1 in ,rome1 #aa1 #ac4 ,crawford1 ,thomas1 in ,rome1 #di2 career of1 #ea2 poem on1 #eb4 ,crow1 ,hon4 ,wayman1 #fa4 ,cum1 #bda4 ,cuman ,sibyl1 #bdb4 da ,bisticci1 ,vespasiano1 #chc4 ,dalbano1 ,edoardo1 #bcf4 ,dana1 ,richard ,henry1 #bai4 ,dante1 quoted1 #bfg-bgj2 ,mazzini's estimate of1 #ded4 d',avalos1 ,donna ,constanza1 #bia4 d',avalos1 ,francesco1 #bij1 #bid1 #bie4 ,de ,castro1 ,consul ,general1 in ,rome1 #afi4 ,decline of art1 #ca4 d',ollanda1 ,francesco1 #cbb-cbd4 del ,val1 ,cardinal ,merry1 #adf-adi1 #dce4 del ,vasto1 ,marchese1 #bii4 ,de ,monici1 chronicles of1 #cih4 de ,stal1 ,mme41 in ,rome1 #aa1 #bb4 ,dietsch1 ,c4 ,percival1 in ,rome1 #aj4 di ,francavilla1 ,duchess1 #bia-bic4 di ,mercanti1 ,pica1 #cdi1 #cej4 di ,mercanti1 ,pietro ,bernardone1 #cdh1 #cdi4 di ,pescara1 ,marchesa1 #bif1 #bih1 #bii1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb1 #cjf1 #caa1 #cab1 #cbb1 #cca1 #ccb1 #cce4 di ,pescara1 ,marchese1 #bib1 #bif1 #bii1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb1 #cjc1 #cjd1 #cca1 #ccb4 ,doges1 ,palace of1 #djj-djc4 ,dolce1 ,ludovico1 #cjf4 ,don ,erasmo ,gattola1 #bgc4 ,duca de ,torlonia1 family of1 #bje4 ,duff1 ,lina ,gordon1 quoted1 #cgd4 ,dupaty1 quoted1 #af4 ,duran1 ,m4 ,carolus1 in ,rome1 #aff1 #afg4 ,elena1 ,queen1 #adj1 #adb1 #agi4 ,eliot1 ,george1 quoted1 #beb4 ,emerson1 ,mary ,moody1 letters to1 #ab4 ,emerson1 ,ralph ,waldo1 in ,rome1 #ab2 quoted1 #he4 ,emmons1 ,miss ,elise1 in ,rome1 #afg4 ,esposito1 #bcg4 ,ezekiel1 ,moses1 in ,rome1 #aj2 studios of1 #ig4 ,fawcett1 ,edgar1 quoted1 #dag4 ,ferrara1 ,duca and ,duchessa of1 #caa4 ,ferri1 ,signor ,enrico1 #dcf1 #ddb2 quoted1 #ddb4 ,festus1 quoted1 #cj4 ,field1 ,kate1 in ,rome1 #ab4 ,florence1 culture of1 #dcj1 #dca4 ,fra ,ambrosia1 #cbb4 ,franciscan1 #cfg4 ,frascati1 visited1 #bje4 ,galileo1 in ,rome1 #aci1 #dde4 ,galleria ,vittorio ,emanuele1 #ddh4 ,garibaldi1 villa of1 #bci4 ,garnett1 ,dr4 ,richard1 quoted1 #def4 ,genoa1 #dcj2 features of1 #dea2 as a metropolis of sculpture1 #deb2 churches of1 #deb2 enchantment of1 #dee4 ,ghiberto1 ,bishop1 #caa4 ,gibson1 ,john1 in ,rome1 #aj1 #cf2 quoted1 #cd1 #cg1 #ei2 grave of1 #bba4 ,giotto1 #cgf1 #cgg1 #cgi4 ,giovio1 ,paolo1 #cjf4 ,gladstone1 in ,rome1 #aa4 ,goethe1 in ,rome1 #aa1 #bj2 quoted1 #bj4 ,goethe1 ,august1 grave of1 #baf4 ,goldoni1 ,carlo1 centenary of1 #dac2 memorial of1 #dad4 ,good ,friday1 service in ,rome1 #bjj1 #bja4 ,greenough1 ,horatio1 in ,rome1 #aj2 work of1 #di2 death1 #ej4 ,greenough1 ,mrs4 ,horatio1 #cce4 ,greenough1 ,richard1 in ,rome1 #aj1 #eh2 grave of1 #bag4 ,greenough1 ,sarah ,b41 tomb of1 #bah4 ,grotto de ,matrimonia1 #bfc4 ,grotto ,ferrata1 #bji4 ,guili1 ,commendatore ,conte1 #bad4 ,guthers1 ,carl1 work of1 #bcf4 ,hare1 ,augustus ,william1 grave of1 #bba4 ,hawthorne1 ,nathaniel1 quoted1 #de1 #eg1 #fg1 #aie4 ,healy1 ,mr41 in ,rome1 #ai4 ,herculaneum1 #bdb2 excavations in1 #bdd2 ,professor ,spinazzola on1 #bdb1 #bdc2 destruction of1 #bdd2 theatre in1 #bdg4 ,hillard1 ,george ,stillman1 in ,rome1 #ab2 quoted1 #bc1 #bd1 #ea1 #bcj1 #bdh4 ,holy ,week1 in ,rome1 #bjj4 ,hosmer1 ,harriet1 in ,rome1 #aj1 #ei1 #fj1 #fa2 work of1 #fb4 ,howe1 ,dr4 ,samuel ,gridley1 in ,rome1 #ab4 ,howe1 ,julia ,ward1 in ,rome1 #ab4 ,howells1 ,william ,dean1 in ,rome1 #ac1 #daf4 ,howitt1 ,william and ,mary1 graves of1 #baf4 ,hugo1 ,victor1 #da4 ,ischia1 #bha2 romantic impressions of1 #bhb2 home of ,vittoria ,colonna1 #bhb2 the d',avalos castle in1 #bia2 as an enchanted island1 #bif2 ,vittoria's return to1 #bii1 #cje4 ,italy1 land of romance and song1 #f2 ,mazzini's opinion of1 #fe2 true life of1 #dbc2 as a youthful country1 #dbd2 relation with ,united ,states1 #dbe2 traveller in1 #dbe2 picture of idyllic days in1 #dbg2 approach to1 #dbi2 cities of1 #dbi1 #dcj2 in the making1 #dca2 politics of1 #dcb2 ,socialistic uprising in1 #dcc2 taxation in1 #dcf-dch2 railroads in1 #dci1 #ddj2 government of1 #ddj1 #dda2 future of1 #ddd1 #deg2 lakes of1 #ddi2 contemporary literature of1 #def4 ,james1 ,henry1 in ,rome1 #aa1 #ac4 ,jameson1 ,mrs41 in ,rome1 #fg2 quoted1 #aic4 ,johnson1 ,robert ,underwood1 quoted1 #daf1 #dba4 ,juvenal1 birthplace of1 #bgg4 ,keats1 in ,rome1 #aa1 #acb2 memorial1 #acc2 grave of1 #baf4 ,kemble1 ,adelaide1 in ,rome1 #fh4 ,kemble1 ,fanny1 in ,rome1 #fh4 ,keynote of life1 #cei4 ,khayyam1 ,omar1 quoted1 #a1 #id4 ,lacus ,avernus1 #bdj4 ,lanciani1 ,professor1 lectures by1 #ach1 #aci2 opinion of1 #bdd1 #ccc4 ,leaning ,tower of ,pisa1 #dej4 ,libraries of ,rome1 #bad1 #bbc4 ,lister1 ,mrs41 in ,rome1 #agb4 ,liszt1 ,abb1 in ,rome1 #ah1 #ai4 ,little1 ,canon ,knox1 quoted1 #cdg1 #cdh1 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,medici1 #d1 #acd4 ,villa ,nazionale1 #bch4 ,villa ,pamphilia ,doria1 #adi4 ,villa ,torlonia1 #bjf4 ,virgil1 quoted1 #bda2 grotto of1 #bdb4 ,visconti1 #cbi1 #ccj4 ,vittorio ,emanuele1 #bad4 ,waldstein1 ,dr4 ,charles1 quoted1 #bde4 ,ward1 ,mrs4 ,humphry1 quoted1 #baj1 #bab4 ,watson1 ,william1 quoted1 #i1 #be1 #hf1 #hg4 ,wellman1 ,walter1 #i4 ,west1 ,benjamin1 in ,rome1 #aj4 ,white1 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,henry1 in ,rome1 #afe4 ,whites1 #ade4 ,whitman1 ,walt1 quoted1 #dbb4 ,whitney1 ,anne1 in ,rome1 #aj1 #eh4 ,whittier1 quoted1 #cci4 ,wilberforce1 ,rev4 ,basil1 quoted1 #abe1 #cda4 ,woolson1 ,constance ,fenimore1 tomb of1 #bai4 ,zuccaro1 ,federigo1 #dd4 ,,works ,,by ,,lilian ,,whiting ,,the ,,world ,,beautiful4 ,first1 ,second1 and ,third ,series4 #c vols4 #afmo4 #a4jj per vol4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be per vol4 ,cannot help being uplifting and inspiring4--,new ,church ,messenger4 ,,after ,,her ,,death1 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be4 ,should bring positive aid in sorrow4--,hartford ,post4 ,,from ,,dreamland ,,sent4 ,verses of the ,life to ,come4 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be4 ,graceful1 tender1 true1 appealing to what is best in the human heart4--,the ,independent4 ,,the ,,spiritual ,,significance2 or1 ,death as an ,event in ,life4 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be4 ,it suggests and hints at the ultimate significance of scientific investigation with relation to the totality of thought in a very fresh and suggestive way4--,the ,outlook4 ,,kate ,,field3 ,a ,,record4 ,with portraits1 including one by ,elihu ,vedder4 #abmo4 ,decorated cloth1 #b4jj4 ,a wonderfully vivid portrait4--,san ,francisco ,chronicle4 ,a ,,study ,,of ,,elizabeth ,,barrett ,,browning1 #afmo4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be4 ,the most virile picture of ,mrs4 ,browning in all our literature4--,new ,york ,times4 ,,the ,,world ,,beautiful ,,in ,,books1 #afmo4 #a4jj net4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be net4 ,great thoughts of great writers are touched upon with rare discrimination and critical power4--,boston ,transcript4 ,,boston ,,days4 ,illustrated4 #abmo4 #a4ej net4 ,all the famous names associated with ,boston pass in review4--,boston ,herald4 ,,the ,,life ,,radiant1 #afmo4 #a4jj net4 ,decorated cloth1 #a4be net4 ,no one can read it without having a clearer perception of the meaning of life and of the infinite possibilities of the human soul in its process of advancement4--,chicago ,chronicle4 ,,the ,,outlook ,,beautiful1 #afmo4 #a4jj net4 ,white and gold1 #a4be net4 ,a fitting crown to ,the ,world ,beautiful4--,philadelphia ,ledger4 ,,the ,,florence ,,of ,,landor4 ,fully illustrated4 #hvo4 ,in box1 #b4ej net4 ,a striking picture of ,florence1 doubly interesting because so many eminent persons appear in it4--,philadelphia ,ledger4 ,,the ,,joy ,,that ,,no ,,man ,,taketh ,,from ,,you4 #ah mo4 #ej cents net4 ,emphasizes the reality of spiritual things with an intense conviction4--,living ,age4 ,,from ,,dream ,,to ,,vision ,,of ,,life4 #afmo4 #a4jj net4 ,white and gold1 #a4be net4 ,uniform with ,the ,world ,beautiful4 ,a study of life from the mere transient dream to the radiant eternal vision4 ,,the ,,land ,,of ,,enchantment4 ,from ,pike's ,peak to the ,pacific4 ,fully illustrated4 #hvo4 #b4ej net4 ,a vivid presentation of the scenic marvels and resources of the ,southwest4 ,,little1 ,,brown1 ,,co41 ,publishers1 ,,boston 99 99 99 99 99 ,,transcriber',s ,,note ,the original language1 spelling1 language and punctuation have been preserved4 ,the following corrections were made to the original text3 ,page xii3 ,vittoria ,colonna1 ,galleria ,buonarotti1 ,florence ,vittoria ,colonna1 ,galleria ,buonarroti1 ,florence ,page #f3 artistic centre of the ninteenth century and artistic centre of the nineteenth century and ,page #ai3 on the wall of the casa in the ,via delle ,quattre ,fontane on the wall of the casa in the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane page #bf3 the ,palazzo ,sentoriale and the ,palazzo dei ,conservatore4 the ,palazzo ,senatoriale and the ,palazzo dei ,conservatori4 page #bg3 the ,stanza della ,incendio and the ,sala di ,constantino4 the ,stanza dell',incendio and the ,sala di ,constantino4 page #cb3 winds on the ,pont ,san ,angelo1 and in the vast winds on the ,ponte ,san ,angelo1 and in the vast page #cb3 the ,music ,nazionale--is the group of ,pluto the ,museo ,nazionale--is the group of ,pluto page #ee3 during hs stay in ,rome are ',st4 ,elizabeth of during his stay in ,rome are ',st4 ,elizabeth of page #gb3 ,the ,via delle ,quatre ,fontane1 on which the ,the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane1 on which the page #ach3 given under the auspices of the ,societa ,archeologica1 given under the auspices of the ,societ ,archeologica1 page #adh3 gentilinomo1 who is gorgeously arrayed in knee gentiluomo1 who is gorgeously arrayed in knee page #afa3 ,jacomletti1 and there is also a kneeling statue ,jacometti1 and there is also a kneeling statue page #afc3 and the ,via dell ,quattro ,fontane4 ,the and the ,via delle ,quattro ,fontane4 ,the page #afc3 for living purposes4 ,the portere1 the guards1 for living purposes4 ,the portiere1 the guards1 page #agj3 and in the ,vedder villa1 ,torre ,quatro ,venti and in the ,vedder villa1 ,torre ,quattro ,venti page #aga3 the ,american wife of ,caviliere ,cortesi1 an the ,american wife of ,cavaliere ,cortesi1 an page #agh3 ,peruzzi1 and ,annibale ,caracci4 ,raphael is ,peruzzi1 and ,annibale ,carracci4 ,raphael is page #ahe3 that includes the ,ludovisi ,mars2 ,hercules1 that includes the ,ludovisi ,mars2 ,hercules1 page #bjj3 he may rest1 mens conscia recta6 he may rest1 mens conscia recti6 page #bje3 whose grand ,roman palazzo is in the ,boca di whose grand ,roman palazzo is in the ,bocca di page #bac3 ,the ,villa ,falconicri1 in ,frascati1 which was ,the ,villa ,falconieri1 in ,frascati1 which was page #bcd3 ,benvenuto ,cellini at the ,castel ,sant ,angelo2 ,benvenuto ,cellini at the ,castel ,sant',angelo2 page #bcg3 of the street scenes of ,naples2 ,camprani and of the street scenes of ,naples2 ,campriani and page #bdd3 ,forum1 succeding ,lanciani--believe that some ,forum1 succeeding ,lanciani--believe that some page #bdd3 equestrian statue of ,bulbi1 in the ,naples ,museum1 equestrian statue of ,balbo1 in the ,naples ,museum1 page #bfj3 ,the cathedral at ,revello has traces of the ,the cathedral at ,ravello has traces of the page #bfj3 of the ,palazzo ,rufelo might enchant ,hafiz himself4 of the ,palazzo ,rufolo might enchant ,hafiz himself4 page #bgb3 ,mignano 7,ginodone ,trieramosca7 and also to ,mignano 7,guidone ,fieramosca7 and also to page #bgb3 are a series of fresco paintings by ,luca ,gindano1 are a series of fresco paintings by ,luca ,giordano1 page #bgb3 by ,mazzarappi and ,marco da ,siena4 ,nothing by ,mazzaroppi and ,marco da ,siena4 ,nothing page #bgd3 ,terre di ,lavorno region3-- ,terra di ,lavoro region3-- page #bgf3 to be a ,monumento ,nazionali1 and it is now to be a ,monumento ,nazionale1 and it is now page #bhf3 in the ,inferno4 ,the ,colonna and the ,orsino in the ,inferno4 ,the ,colonna and the ,orsini page #bhf3 look down from ,castel ,gondolfo on the gloomy1 look down from ,castel ,gandolfo on the gloomy1 page #bhg3 ,marino1 ,castel ,gondolfo1 and ,frascati1 with ,marino1 ,castel ,gandolfo1 and ,frascati1 with page #bie3 for the country they left ,naples for ,pietzalba for the country they left ,naples for ,pietralba page #bie3 ,musefico1 il ,givoio1 and il ,minturo4 ,it was an ,musefico1 il ,giovio1 and il ,minturno4 ,it was an page #big3 ,per te narrar tre quante dubbie voglie1 ,per te narrar tra quante dubbie voglie1 page #big3 ,fra quanti aspri martir1 degliosa io vivo6 ,fra quanti aspri martir1 dogliosa io vivo6 page #cjd3 ,san ,mano that had formerly been its property4 ,san ,magno that had formerly been its property4 page #cje3 world's sun2 and not to add light to mio vel solo1 world's sun2 and not to add light to mio bel sole1 page #ccb3 ,bene scripsisti de me1 ,thoma2 quam ergo mercedem recipris8 ,bene scripsisti de me1 ,thoma2 quam ergo mercedem recipies8 page #chj3 ,bonaventuri built over it1 is preserved in this ,bonaventura built over it1 is preserved in this page #che3 the ,palazzo ,rospigliosa in ,rome4 the ,palazzo ,rospigliosi in ,rome4 page #cii3 ,anopeste1 elected by the tribunal of commonalty1 ,anafesto1 elected by the tribunal of commonalty1 page #djj3 mural work by ,battesta ,franco and ,de ,moro4 mural work by ,battista ,franco and ,de ,moro4 page #djj3 ,one enters the ,porta delta ,carta1 which ,one enters the ,porta della ,carta1 which page #dje3 ,peter1 ,maucis1 and ,antoninus are commending ,peter1 ,francis1 and ,antoninus are commending page #dbf3 ,saricinesco1 in the region of ,tivoli1 was made ,saracinesco1 in the region of ,tivoli1 was made page #dcf3 too1 in other leading men4 ,zurati1 the too1 in other leading men4 ,turati1 the page #deb3 in ,europe4 ,that of the ,annunziati1 the in ,europe4 ,that of the ,annunziata1 the page #dfa3 ,annunziati ,cathedral1 ,genoa1 #deb4 ,annunziata ,cathedral1 ,genoa1 #deb4 page #dfb3 ,camprani1 #bcg4 ,campriani1 #bcg4 page #dfc3 del ,vall1 ,cardinal ,merry1 #adf-adi1 #dce4 del ,val1 ,cardinal ,merry1 #adf-adi1 #dce4 page #dff3 ,ossi1 ,professor ,dall1 opinion of1 #bdd4 ,osso1 ,professor ,dall'1 opinion of1 #bdd4 page #dfg3 ,quatre ,fontane1 ,via delle1 #gb4 ,quattro ,fontane1 ,via delle1 #gb4 page #dfg3 ,revello1 ,cathedral at1 #bfj4 ,ravello1 ,cathedral at1 #bfj4 page #dgj3 ,villa ,falconicri1 #bac4 ,villa ,falconieri1 #bac4 ,on page #bce3 ,da ,scala d',oro should be ,la ,scala d',oro or ,madonna della ,scala d',oro4 99 99 99 99 99