,transcriber's ,note ,obvious typographical errors have been corrected4 ,a list of corrections is found at the end of the text4 ,inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained4 ,a list of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text4 ,,the ,,ladies' ,,work-,,table ,,book2 ,,containing ,,clear ,,and ,,practical ,,instructions ,,in ,,plain ,,and ,,fancy ,,needlework1 ,,embroidery1 ,,knitting1 ,,netting1 ,,and ,,crochet4 ,,with ,,numerous ,,engravings1 ,,illustrative ,,of ,,the ,,various ,,stitches ,,in ,,those ,,useful ,,and ,,fashionable ,,employments4 ,,new-,,york3 ,j4 ,,winchester1 #cj ,,ann-,,street #ahdd4 ,,introduction4 ,if it be true that home scenes are rendered happy or miserable in proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by woman--as sister1 wife1 or mother--it will be admitted as a fact of the utmost importance1 that every thing should be done to improve the taste1 cultivate the understanding1 and elevate the character of those high priestesses of our domestic sanctuaries4 ,the page of history informs us1 that the progress of any nation in morals1 civilization1 and refinement1 is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position in which woman is placed in society2 and the same instructive volume will enable us to perceive1 that the fanciful creations of the needle1 have exerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man4 ,to blend the useful1 with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushing forth of mind1 vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of the heart1 is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman4 ,without her influence1 life would be arrayed in sables1 and the proud lords of creation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beasts that perish4 ,to render then those terrestrial angels all that our fondest wishes could desire1 or our most vivid imaginations picture1 must be1 under any circumstances1 a pleasing and delightful employment2 while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the care bestowed upon her1 by the thousand offices of love1 to the performance to which she alone is equal1 is doubtless one of the most exalted sources of human felicity4 ,providence has1 in a remarkable manner1 adapted woman's tastes and propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale of being4 ,tender and affectionate1 it is her highest bliss to minister to the wants1 the convenience1 or the pleasure of those she loves2 and hence1 her inventive powers have been1 in all ages1 called into early and active exercise1 in the fabrication of those articles calculated to accomplish those desirable ends4 ,amongst these1 ,useful and ,ornamental ,needlework1 ,knitting1 and ,netting1 occupy a distinguished place1 and are capable of being made1 not only sources of personal gratification1 but of high moral benefit1 and the means of developing in surpassing loveliness and grace1 some of the highest and noblest feelings of the soul4 ,to become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to every fair one4 ,never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive1 as when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties1 and domestic cares4 ,the subjects treated of in this little manual are of vast importance1 and to them we are indebted for a large amount of the comforts we enjoy2 as1 without their aid1 we should be reduced to a state of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to form an adequate conception4 ,to learn1 then1 how to fabricate articles of dress and utility for family use1 or1 in the case of ladies blessed with the means of affluence1 for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor1 should form one of the most prominent branches of female education4 ,and yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with the general state of society1 that this is a branch of study to which nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school instruction4 ,the effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent in after life1 when1 from a variety of circumstances1 such knowledge would be of the highest advantage1 and subservient to the noblest ends1 either of domestic comfort1 or of active and generous benevolence4 ,the records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art of needlework2 and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliest developments of female taste and ingenuity4 ,as civilization increased1 new wants called forth new exertions2 the loom poured forth its multifarious materials1 and the needle1 with its accompanying implements1 gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to its operations4 ,no one can look upon ,,the ,,needle1 without emotion2 it is a constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life4 ,we find it the first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood1 and it is found to retain its usefulness and charm1 even when trembling in the grasp of fast declining age4 ,the little girl first employs it in the dressing of her doll3 then she is taught its still higher use1 in making up some necessary articles for a beloved brother1 or a revered parent4 ,approaching to womanhood1 additional preparations of articles of use1 as ornaments of herself and others1 call for its daily employment2 and with what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom1 as beneath its magic touch1 that which is to deck a lover or adorn a bride1 becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and fond regard4 ,to the adornments of the bridal bed1 the numerous preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger1 and the various comforts and conveniences of life1 the service of this little instrument is indispensible4 ,often too is it found aiding in the preparation of gifts of friendship1 the effects of benevolence1 and the works of charity4 ,many of those articles1 which minister so essentially to the solace of the afflicted1 would be unknown without it2 and its friendly aid does not desert us1 even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction4 ,by its aid1 we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a departed loved one1 and prepare those sable habiliments1 which custom has adopted as the external signs of mourning4 ,the needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to the female heart2 and we would impress this truth seriously upon their recollection1 that as there is ,sermons in stones1 ,and good in every thing4 so the needle they so often use1 is1 or may be1 a silent but salutary moral teacher4 ,they all know that however good the eye of a needle may be1 if it were rusted and pointless1 it would be of little use4 ,let them also recollect1 that though it may posses the finest point and polish in the world1 if destitute of the eye1 it would be of no use at all4 ,the lesson we wish them to derive from hence1 is this2 that as it is the eye which holds the thread1 and that it is by the thread alone that the needle becomes useful1 so it is the eye of intelligence directed to the attainment of useful ends1 that gives all the real value to the point and polish1 which is so much admired in the educated female2 and that unless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of goodness1 all other endowments will be useless to their possessor4 ,let them learn also1 not to despise such of their companions as1 though intelligent and useful1 are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal to their own4 ,circumstances may have rendered them1 like the needle1 rusty and pointless2 but the eye of intelligence is there1 and they may still be useful4 ,the want of a work containing clear instructions1 without unnecessary diffuseness1 by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors1 has long been sensibly felt2 and this want1 the following pages are intended to supply4 ,our aim is1 not to make young ladies servile copyists1 but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought and reflection1 which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of a shawl1 or the netting of a purse4 ,indeed1 it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the development of moral goodness1 that they may become pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being4 ,we were not sent into this world to flutter through life1 like the gaudy butterfly1 only to be seen and admired4 ,we were designed to be useful to our fellow beings2 and to make all our powers and capabilities1 in some way or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time4 ,to this end1 we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention2 and1 in its attainment1 to exert every energy which they possess4 ,we wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose1 which will outlive the present hour4 ,but to do this1 the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul2 and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized1 and animated1 by the spirit of love4 ,thus1 and thus only1 can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good2 and such they will assuredly be found1 if practised from right motives1 and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important duties1 which we owe to ,heaven1 to our fellow beings1 and to ourselves4 ,we are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainment of moral ends2 and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority1 and affectionate regard1 for the comfort and happiness of others1 which can alone give light and animation1 sweetness and blooming freshness1 to the interesting scenes of future life4 ,all engagements1 which are calculated to elevate1 soften1 and harmonize the human character1 have this tendency2 and it is in the assured conviction that the employments here treated of1 are1 when cultivated in due subordination to higher duties1 well adapted to secure these objects1 and to promote these domestic ends1 that the ,ladies' ,work-,table ,book has been prepared1 and is now presented to the lovely daughters of our land4 ,the public will be the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort4 ,small as the work is1 it has not been produced without much labor1 and considerable exercise of thought2 and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen1 in the fervent hope1 that it will not be found altogether unworthy of their favorable notice and regard4 ,in concluding these introductory remarks1 we wish to say a word or two to the parents and guardians of those1 whose excellence of character is so essential to the welfare of our beloved country4 ,we trust by you1 our little manual will be cordially approved1 and placed1 as a memento of affection1 in the hands of those you most desire to see models of sincerity1 elegance1 and accomplishments4 ,this will be well2 but we trust the matter will not be allowed to rest there4 ,it is not when good instructors and proper books are provided for the young1 that the duties of the parental relationship are performed4 ,no2 care must be taken to give efficiency to the means thus called into requisition1 by the most assiduous care1 devoted attention1 and judiciously expressed approval on the part of those who claim the highest regard from the rising generation4 ,the path of education is not always strewed with flowers1 nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid1 on which the superstructure may securely rest4 ,it has been well remarked that intellect may be cultivated at school1 but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amid the scenes of home4 ,our aim in this work has been1 while seeking to promote the purposes of genuine education1 to raise high the moral sentiments1 and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities of the soul4 ,in this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation4 ,we know the influence of a judicious mother1 and we confidently commend our labor to your favorable regard4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,materials ,,and ,,implements ,,for ,,working #ag ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,plain ,,needlework--,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches #bh ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,plain ,,needlework--,,instructions ,,in ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,body ,,linen #cg ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,plain ,,needlework--,,instructions ,,in ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,house ,,linen #ed ,,chapter ,v4 ,,plain ,,needlework--,,miscellaneous ,,instructions #ei ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches #fc ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,explanation ,,of ,,patterns #ga ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,instructions ,,in ,,embroidery #gi ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,preparation ,,of ,,frames #hb ,,chapter ,x4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,application ,,of ,,fancy ,,needlework ,,to ,,useful ,,purposes #hh ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,fancy ,,needlework--,,special ,,instructions #ia ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,knitting--,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches #ig ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,knitting--,,examples ,,in ,,knitting #aaa ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,netting--,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches #abe ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,netting--,,examples ,,in ,,netting #ace ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,crochet--,,explanation ,,of ,,the ,,principal ,,stitches ,,in ,,crochet ,,work #adb ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,crochet--,,examples ,,in ,,crochet #adh ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,tatting--,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches #aec ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,concluding ,,remarks #aee ,,the ,,ladies' ,,work-,,table ,,book4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,materials ,,and ,,implements ,,for ,,working4 ,,materials ,,for ,,plain ,,needlework4 ,the subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to pay too much attention2 since1 on the judicious selection of materials1 depends1 to a vast extent1 the success of that prudent and well-regulated economy1 which is so essential to the welfare and prosperity of every family4 ,on this account1 we have thought it right to place before our readers the following observations1 which should be carefully attended to1 as of the utmost importance4 ,in purchasing goods1 be careful to examine the quality2 and1 if not experienced in such matters1 take with you an experienced friend4 ,cheap goods generally prove the dearest in the end4 ,the following rules may assist you in this respect1 if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment4 ,be careful1 in purchasing articles1 such as linen1 calico1 c41 for a specific purpose1 to have it the proper width4 ,a great deal of waste may be incurred1 by inattention to this important direction4 ,,calico is often so dressed up1 as to make it extremely difficult to ascertain its real quality3 hence1 it is best to buy it undressed4 ,it should be soft1 and free from specks4 ,it is of various widths1 and of almost all prices4 ,a good article1 at a medium price1 will be found cheapest in the end4 ,,linen is of various qualities4 ,that which is called ,suffolk hemp is considered the best4 ,irish linen is also in great repute4 ,but you must be careful to escape imposition2 as there are plenty of imitations1 which are good for nothing4 ,,muslin ,,checks are much used for caps1 c41 and are of various qualities4 ,you may form a good judgment of these1 by observing the thin places between the checks and the threads2 if the former be good1 and the latter even1 they may generally be relied on4 ,,blue ,,checks4--,these may be procured either of cotton or linen2 but the linen ones1 though highest in price1 are cheapest in the end3 they will wear double the length of time that the cotton ones will4 ,,prints4--,give a good price1 if you wish to secure a good article4 ,some colors1 as red1 pink1 lilac1 bright brown1 buff1 and blue1 wear well2 green1 violet1 and some other colors are very liable to fade4 ,the best way is to procure a patch1 and wash half of it4 ,this will test the color1 and may prevent much disappointment4 ,,flannels4--,the ,welsh flannels are generally preferred1 as those that are the most durable4 ,lancashire flannels are cheapest1 but are far inferior in quality4 ,you may know the one from the other by the color3 the flannels of ,lancashire are of a yellowish hue2 those of ,wales are a kind of bluish gray tint4 ,,woollen ,,cloths4--,these vary exceedingly1 as to quality4 ,the low-priced ones are not worth half the purchase money4 ,good woollen cloth is smooth1 and has a good nap4 ,if the sample shown you1 be destitute of these qualities1 have nothing to do with it1 unless you want to be cheated4 ,,stuffs4--,the quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect4 ,holding them up to the light is a good plan4 ,you should also be particular as to the dyeing1 as that is sometimes very indifferently managed1 and the stuff is dashed4 ,black dye is liable to injure the material4 ,low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything4 ,,crape4--,this is often damaged in the dying4 ,you should spread it over a white surface before you purchase it1 as by that means1 the blemishes in the material1 if any1 will be more likely to appear4 ,,silks4--,these are1 if good1 costly2 and great care should be exercised in selecting them4 ,they should not be too stiff1 as in that case they are liable to crack2 and on the other hand1 they should not be too thin1 as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper4 ,a medium thickness and stiffness is the best4 ,if plain1 you must be careful that there are no stains or specks in them2 and if figured1 it is advisable to have the pattern equally good on both sides4 ,this will enhance the price at first1 but you will find it to be good economy afterward4 ,in silks that are to be sold cheap1 a kind of camel's hair is frequently introduced4 ,this may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected silk cross ways1 and if camel's hair be mixed with it1 it will spring with a kind of whirring sound4 ,this should be attended to4 ,,satin4--,it is of various qualities and prices4 ,the best is soft and thick4 ,when used for trimmings1 it should be cut the cross way1 as it then looks better1 and has a much richer appearance than when put on straight4 ,these general observations will be of great use1 and should be well impressed upon the memory1 so as readily to be called into exercise when needed4 ,in making up linen1 thread is much preferable to cotton4 ,sewing-silk should be folded up neatly in wash leather1 and colored threads and cotton in paper1 as the air and light are likely to injure them4 ,buttons1 hooks and eyes1 and all metal implements1 when not in use1 should be kept folded up2 as exposure to the air not only tarnishes them1 but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways4 ,,materials ,,for ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,canvas 7coarse7 eighteen threads to the inch4 ,work in cross stitch with double wool4 ,this is proper for a foot-stool1 sofa-pillow1 c4 ,canvas 7very coarse7 ten threads to the inch4 ,work in cross stitch1 over one thread1 with single wool4 ,if used for grounding1 work in two threads4 ,this will accelerate the work1 and look equally well4 ,silk ,leaves4--,if no grounding is required1 work in tent stitch4 ,the pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material4 ,the finer the canvas1 the larger the pattern4 ,color4--,an attention to shade is of the utmost consequence2 as on this1 in an eminent degree1 depends the perfection of the work4 ,the shades must be so chosen1 as to blend into each other1 or all harmony of coloring will be destroyed4 ,the canvas must be more distinct in tent stitch than in cross stitch1 or rather more strongly contrasted1 especially in the dark shades of flowers3 without attention to this point1 a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained4 ,wool1 7,english and ,german7 white1 black1 and various colors4--,two1 three1 four1 five1 or six shades of each color1 as the nature of the work may require4 ,the same observation applies to silk and cotton1 in cases where those materials are used4 ,split wool1 for mosaic work4 ,silk4 ,split silk4 ,floss4 ,half twist4 ,deckers4 ,china silk4 ,fine purse silk4 ,cotton1 of various kinds4 ,gold twist4 ,silver thread4 ,chenille4 ,beads4 ,thick and transparent gold4 ,bright and burnt steel4 ,silver plated1 c4 ,perforated cards4 ,canvas1 called bolting1 for bead work4 ,,scale ,,of ,,canvases4 ,english ,canvas4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,canvas ,no4 ,cross stitch4 ,tent stitch4 ---------------------------------------- --- #af #d-a_/b #i #ah #e #aj #bj #e-a_/b #aa #bb #f #ab #bd #f-a_/b #ac #bf #g #ad #bh #g-a_/b #ae #cj #h #af #cb #i #ah #cd #i-a_/b #ai #cf #aj #bj #ch #aj-a_/d #ba #dj #aa #bb #db #aa-a_/b #bc #de #ab-a_/b #be #dh #ac #bf #ej #ad #bh #ee #ae #cj #fj #ag #cd ,silk ,canvas4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,canvas ,no4 ,cross stitch4 ,tent stitch4 ---------------------------------------- --- #ad #bh ,french ,canvas4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,canvas ,no4 ,cross stitch4 ,tent stitch4 ---------------------------------------- --- #aj #f-a_/b #ac #ab #g-a_/b #ae #ad #h-a_/b #ag #af #i-a_/b #ai #ah #aj #bj #ai #aa #bb #bj #ab #bd #bb #ac #bf #bd #ad #bh #bf #cj #ae #cj #dj #af #cb ,,materials ,,for ,,embroidery4 ,silk1 satin1 velvet1 and cloth4 ,,materials ,,for ,,knitting1 ,,netting1 ,,and ,,crochet4 ,,silk4--,this material is extensively used in the various productions of which we are about to treat4 ,the kinds usually employed in ,knitting1 ,netting1 and ,crochet1 are purse silk1 or twist2 coarse and fine netting silk2 second sized purse twist2 plain silk2 ,china silk2 extra fine1 and finest netting silk2 second sized netting silk2 coarse and fine chenille1 and crochet silk4 ,these are so well known that it would be a waste of time to describe them in detail4 ,they are of a great variety of colors1 and of different qualities2 some sorts being much more durable1 both in fabric and color1 than others4 ,no young lady should trust1 at first1 to her own judgment in making the selection3 but a little attention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing the most profitable materials4 ,the ,china silks of the ,french surpass all others1 of that kind1 with which we are acquainted1 both as to the nature of tints1 and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades4 ,,wool4--,this is of various colors and shades2 ,german wool1 single1 and double2 ,hamburgh wool1 fleecy1 of three1 four1 five1 six1 seven1 and eight threads2 embroidery fleecy ,shetland wool2 ,english wool1 coarse yarn1 for mitts4 ,,brief ,,description ,,of ,,wools4 ,german wool is the produce of the merino breed1 in its highest state of cultivation1 and is the best sheep's wool we possess4 ,the merino fleece is brought to the greatest perfection in ,saxony1 and the adjacent states4 ,it is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work1 c41 at ,gotha2 the dyeing of it is performed at ,berlin1 and in other parts of ,germany4 ,the wools of ,germany are1 in fineness and softness1 much1 superior to those of ,spain4 ,the wool is prepared in various sizes1 and for some kinds of work1 may be split with great advantage4 ,a large quantity is imported into this country in a raw state1 and is dyed and manufactured here4 ,some of this is equal to the wools prepared in ,germany1 as to quality2 but the brilliancy of the color will not bear comparison4 ,this remark does not extend to the black ,german wool1 prepared in this country1 and which is far superior to that prepared on the continent4 ,much wool1 of a very superior quality is annually prepared for the market2 and so great is its resemblance to a superior article1 that it requires much attention1 and an experienced eye1 to detect the fraud4 ,english wool1 or what is often called embroidery wool1 is much harsher than that of ,germany2 yet it is of a very superior kind1 and much to be preferred for some kinds of work4 ,the dye of several colors of ,english lamb's wool is equal to that of the best dyes of ,germany2 especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue1 green1 and gold color1 which for brilliancy and permanency1 may justly claim equality with the most finished productions of the continental states4 ,worsted is another description of our native produce1 and is extensively used for a great variety of useful purposes1 which are familiar to every one4 ,a great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done in a fine kind of worsted1 called ,,crewels3 and some specimens still remain1 which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the present generation4 ,yarn is a coarse kind of worsted1 much employed in making garden nets1 and for various other purposes4 ,fleecy 7,english7 is manufactured from the ,leicestershire breed1 and is much used in knitting and netting3 it is of two qualities2 both varying in size1 from an eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter4 ,they are made up of threads1 varying from two to twelve1 and are both equally good4 ,they are applied to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named4 ,german fleecy1 thought but little used1 is much superior to that of this country4 ,hamburgh wool is an excellent article1 but has not hitherto been much in request4 ,great care is necessary1 in selecting wool of good quality3 but let the young novice give to the subject her best attention2 and should she find herself sometimes deceived1 still persevere1 remembering that practice makes perfect4 ,,cotton1 of various sizes1 as numbered from one to six1 or higher if required4 ,in the choice of this material1 much care is needed1 not only in the selection of colors and shades1 but also to ascertain if the color has been stained with a permanent dye4 ,,down4--,this is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions1 muffs1 c41 and is too well known to need any description here4 ,,gold ,,and ,,silver ,,thread ,,and ,,cord4--,the precious metals are now very generally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work4 ,gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk1 round which is spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required4 ,for gold1 silver or copper gilt wire is employed1 as pure gold could not be so easily wrought4 ,these threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste of the fair artist may induce her to devise4 ,besides the thread1 gold and silver cord is also in much demand1 and looks extremely beautiful1 when employed with taste and judgment4 ,this material is a twist1 and is composed of different quantities of threads1 according to the thickness required4 ,much care is required in working with it1 or the beauty of the material will be spoilt4 ,it is much used in crochet1 and without due attention1 the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord1 and to break the wire1 which would entirely destroy the beauty of the performance4 ,,beads4--,these beautiful fabrications of art1 are composed of gold1 silver1 polished steel1 and glass4 ,there is also a beautiful sort called garnet beads1 with gold points4 ,all these can be procured at any of the establishments for the sale of fancy articles1 and are to be employed as the judgment or fancy may direct4 ,the gold beads are used in making all kinds of knitting1 netting1 and crochet1 and look well either by themselves1 or when in connection with those of the other materials named4 ,glass beads1 may be procured of any variety of color1 and when in combination with gold1 silver1 or steel1 form a beautiful relief4 ,,necessary ,,implements ,,for ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,frames4 ,cross stitch needles4 ,sewing needles4 ,meshes1 of various sizes--at least three4 ,chenille ,needles4 ,pair of long sharp-pointed scissors4 ,cartridge ,paper4 ,tissue ,paper4 ,a fine piercer4 ,seam piercer4 ,camel's hair brushes4 ,mixture of white lead and gum water1 to draw patterns for dark materials4 ,mixture of stone blue and gum water1 for light colors4 ,black lead pencils4 ,,necessary ,,implements ,,for ,,knitting4 ,needles of various sizes4 ,the ,nos4 referred to are those of the knitting needle gauge4 ,needles pointed at either end1 for ,turkish knitting4 ,ivory1 or wooden pins1 for knitting a biroche4 ,a knitting sheath1 c41 to be fastened on the waist of the knitter1 toward the right hand1 for the purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position4 ,,necessary ,,implements ,,for ,,netting4 ,a pin or mesh1 on which to form the loops4 ,a needle called a netting needle1 formed into a kind of fork1 with two prongs at each end4 ,the ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point1 not fastened like the eye of a common needle1 but left open1 that the thread or twine may pass between them1 and be wound upon the needle4 ,the prongs are brought to a point1 in order that the needle may pass through a small loop without interruption4 ,twine to form foundations4 ,a fine long darning needle for bead work4 ,meshes of various1 sizes from ,no4 #a to #aa4 ,flat meshes1 and ivory meshes2 also of various sizes4 ,the gauge is the same as that for knitting-needles4 ,,necessary ,,implements ,,for ,,crochet4 ,illustration ,ivory crochet needles of various sizes4 ,steel crochet needles4 ,rug needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors4 ,these implements should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner1 as should also the materials for working4 ,order and regularity are matters but too frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth2 and this fault1 which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life1 is but too generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct these incipient seeds of future mischief4 ,no pursuit should be entered into by the young1 without having some moral end in view1 and this is especially needful to be observed in cases1 where at first sight1 it might appear a matter of indifference1 whether the pursuit was one of utility1 or of mere relaxation4 ,we earnestly entreat our young friends1 never to forget1 that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrifice to their heavenly ,father1 if they assiduously endeavor to make the habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies1 conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature1 and subordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being1 than any which this transitory scene can of itself present to their contemplation and pursuits4 ,dyer1 speaking of ,tapestry1 has beautifully said-- ,this bright art ,did zealous ,europe learn of ,pagan lands1 ,while she assayed with rage of holy war ,to desolate their fields2 but old the skill3 ,long were the ,phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd2 ,tyre also1 wealthy seat of art1 excell'd1 ,and elder ,sidon1 in th' historic web4 ,but we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and a definite object4 ,let them seek1 like the excellent ,miss ,linwood-- ,to raise at once our reverence and delight1 ,to elevate the mind and charm the sight1 ,to pour religion through the attentive eye1 ,and waft the soul on wings of extacy2 ,bid mimic art with nature's self to vie1 ,and raise the spirit to its native sky4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,plain ,,needlework4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches4 ,before commencing those directions1 which we deem it necessary to place before our readers1 in reference to this important portion of the work-table manual1 we wish to say a word or two to our fair countrywomen1 on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive acquaintance with those arts1 on which so much of the comfort of individual and domestic life depends4 ,economy of time1 labor1 and expenses1 is an essential requisite in every family2 and will ever claim a due share of attention1 from her who is desirous of fulfilling with credit to herself and advantage to others1 the allotted duties of her appointed station4 ,to those1 who are at the head of the majority of families1 an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain needlework is indispensable4 ,the means placed at their disposal are limited2 in many instances1 extremely so3 and to make the most of these means1 generally provided by the continual care and unremitting attention of the father and the husband1 is a sacred duty1 which cannot be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well regulated mind must be anxious to avoid4 ,the following are the principal stitches used in plain needlework4 ,,sewing ,,and ,,felling4--,if you have selvages1 join them together and sew them firmly4 ,if you have raw edges1 turn down one of the edges once1 and the other double the breadth1 and then turn half of it back again4 ,this is for the fell4 ,the two pieces are pinned face to face1 and seamed together2 the stitches being in a slanting direction1 and just deep enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together4 ,then flatten the seam with the thumb1 turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming4 ,the thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over4 ,,hemmings4--,turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible4 ,flatten1 and be careful1 especially in turning down the corners4 ,hem from right to left2 bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand4 ,fasten the thread without a knot1 and when you finish1 sew several stitches close together1 and cut off the thread4 ,,german ,,hemming4--,turn down both the raw edges once1 taking care so to do it1 as that both turns may be toward your person2 you then lay one below the other1 so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other1 but lies just beneath it4 ,the lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it1 still holding it before you4 ,you are next to open your sleeve1 or whatever else you have been employed upon2 and laying the upper fold over the lower1 fell it down1 and the work is done4 ,,mantuamaker',s ,,hem4--,you lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little below the other2 the upper edge is then turned over the other twice1 and felled down as strong as possible4 ,,running4--,take three threads1 leave three1 and in order that the work may be kept as firm as possible1 back-stitch occasionally4 ,if you sew selvages1 they must be joined evenly together2 but if raw edges1 one must be turned down once1 and the other laid upon it1 but a few threads from the top4 ,it is1 in this case1 to be felled afterwards4 ,,stitching4--,the work must be even as possible4 ,turn down a piece to stitch to1 draw a thread to stitch upon1 twelve or fourteen threads from the edge4 ,being thus prepared1 you take two threads back1 and so bring1 the needle out1 from under two before4 ,proceed in this manner1 to the end of the row2 and in joining a fresh piece of thread1 take care to pass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitch was finished4 ,,gathering4--,you begin by taking the article to be gathered1 and dividing it into halves1 and then into quarters1 putting on pins1 to make the divisions4 ,the piece1 to which you are intending to gather it1 must be gathered about twelve threads from the top1 taking three threads on the needle1 and leaving four2 and so preceding1 alternately1 until one quarter is gathered4 ,fasten the thread1 by twisting it round a pin2 stroke the gathers1 so that they lie evenly and neatly1 with a strong needle or pin4 ,you then proceed as before1 until all the gathers are gathered4 ,then take out the pins1 and regulate the gathers of each quarter1 so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to be sewed4 ,the gathers are then to be fastened on1 one at a time2 and the stitches must be in a slanting direction4 ,the part to be gathered must be cut quite even before commencing1 or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look well4 ,,double ,,gathering1 ,,or ,,puffing4--,this is sometimes employed in setting on frills2 and when executed properly has a pretty effect4 ,you first gather the top1 in the usual way2 then1 having stroked down the gathers1 you gather again under the first gathering1 and of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be4 ,you then sew on the first gathering to the gown1 frock1 c4 you design to trim1 at a distance1 corresponding with the width of the puffing3 and the second gathering sewed to the edge1 so as to form a full hem4 ,you may make a double hem1 if you please1 by gathering three times instead of only twice2 and one of the hems may be straight1 while the other is drawn to one side a little4 ,this requires much exactness1 in the execution2 but if properly done1 it gives a pleasing variety to the work4 ,,whipping4--,you cut the edge smooth1 and divide into halves and quarters1 as for gathering4 ,you then roll the muslin or other material very lightly upon the finger1 making use of the left thumb for that purpose4 ,the needle must go in on the outside1 and be brought through1 on the inside4 ,the whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible4 ,in order that the stitches may draw with ease1 they must be taken with great care4 ,the roll of the whip should be about ten threads4 ,illustration ,,button-,,hole ,,stitch4--,these should be cut by a thread1 and their length should be that of the diameter of the button4 ,in working1 the button-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger2 and you begin at the side which is opposite to the thumb1 and the furthest from the point of the finger on which it is laid4 ,the needle must go in on the wrong side1 and be brought out on the right1 five threads down4 ,to make the stitch1 the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close4 ,in turning the corners1 be careful not to do it too near2 and in order that a proper thickness may be obtained1 it is necessary that the needle should go in between every two threads4 ,making button-holes1 requires great care and attention4 ,illustration ,,fancy ,,button-,,hole ,,stitch4--,this resembles a very wide button-hole stitch1 and is very neat for the fronts of bodies1 where it has a very pretty appearance2 likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits1 and above the broad hems and tucks of frocks4 ,illustration ,,chain ,,stitch4--,in making this stitch1 you are to employ union cord1 bobbin1 or braid1 whichever you think most suitable4 ,make a knot at the end1 and draw it through to the right side4 ,while you put in the needle1 let the end hang loose1 and bring it out below1 so as to incline a little towards the left hand4 ,pass your needle over the cord1 as you draw it out1 and this will form a loop4 ,in drawing out the mesh1 you must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight1 as that would destroy the effect4 ,you proceed in the same manner to form the next1 and each succeeding loop2 taking care to put the needle in a little higher1 and rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch1 so that each loop begins within the lower part of the one going before it1 and you thus produce the resemblance of a chain4 ,illustration ,,fancy ,,chain ,,stitch4--,the only difference between this and the common chain stitch1 is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle at a time1 and the stitches are far from each other4 ,its appearance will be varied1 according as you put in the needle1 to slant little or much4 ,if you should work it perfectly horizontal1 it is the same as button-hole stitch4 ,illustration ,,herring-,,boning4--,this is generally employed in articles composed of flannel1 or other thick material4 ,the edge is to be cut even1 and turned down once4 ,you work from left to right1 thus3 ,put your needle into the material1 and take a stitch of two or three threads1 as close as possible1 under the raw edge1 and bring the needle half way up that part which is turned down1 and four or five threads toward the right hand2 make another stitch1 and bring down the needle2 thus proceed until the work is finished4 ,this stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish1 and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes1 and at the top of hems4 ,it looks both neat and elegant1 when carefully executed4 ,illustration ,,fancy ,,herring-,,boning4--,this is the same as common herring-bone1 only it is done in a perpendicular manner1 instead of being worked horizontally from left to right2 and the thread is brought round behind the needle1 so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner4 ,it has an exceeding neat and pleasing look1 when it is well executed1 and is considered as highly ornamental1 in appropriate situations4 ,illustration ,,angular ,,stitch4--,this stitch resembles button-hole stitch1 only it is carried from right to left to form the pattern4 ,it is a neat ornament for cuffs1 skirts and capes1 and children's pelisses4 ,as much of its beauty depends on its regularity1 care should be taken to make the patterns very even and straight1 and of an equal width2 without due attention to this1 the work will be spoiled4 ,illustration ,,double ,,herring-,,boning4--,this pattern is a kind of double herring-bone1 on each side2 it is too intricate to describe minutely4 ,the engraving will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could give4 ,great care being required to keep the pattern even1 it is advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it1 to serve as a guide4 ,illustration ,,horse-,,shoe ,,stitch4--,this is done with thick1 loosely-twisted cotton1 or bobbin1 and is worked from left to right1 as shown in the accompanying engraving4 ,it has a very neat and pretty appearance1 when worked near the edge of hems1 robings1 c4 ,illustration ,,fancy ,,bobbin ,,edging4--,this is formed by a succession of loops made in the following manner3 ,make a knot at the end1 and put the needle through to the right side1 just below the hem4 ,bring the bobbin over the hem1 and1 putting the needle in at the wrong side1 bring it through to the right4 ,draw the loop to the size you desire1 pass the bobbin through it1 and commence the next stitch1 proceeding as before4 ,,chain ,,stitch1 ,,on ,,gathers4--,this looks well1 if worked in colored worsted1 or in cord4 ,two gathers are taken up for each stitch1 taking care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on the needle at the same time4 ,illustration ,,coral ,,pattern4--,this requires great accuracy in the working1 and it is advisable for the inexperienced to run lines1 in long stitches1 to fix the middle and outsides of the pattern4 ,it may be best understood by the engraving1 merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand1 and continued alternately from left to right1 always pointing the needle toward the centre4 ,it is very suitable for the waist-bands of children's frocks1 the tops of broad hems1 c4 ,illustration ,,serpentine ,,stitch4--,this is exceedingly pretty1 and is much employed for children's dresses4 ,it is worked with the hand1 being sewn on to the material when made4 ,take the cord1 knot it so as to form a loop at the end2 then pass the other end through the loop1 toward the front1 to form another loop to the right hand2 continue passing the bobbin through the loop on one side1 then through the loop on the other1 directing the cord so as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner1 or that part next the work4 ,illustration ,,biassing4--,in this operation1 the first part of the stitch is the same as gathering4 ,you then stitch down2 and upon the right side of the gather1 you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for gathering thread4 ,over this thread you sew1 taking care to take hold also of the gathering thread4 ,the needle is always to be pointed toward your chest4 ,you may work two or three rows in this way1 on the sleeves and shoulders of dresses1 c41 which has a handsome effect4 ,you must take great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers4 ,illustration ,,honey ,,combing4--,the material may be velvet1 silk1 c42 and the mode of working is as follows3 ,the piece you intend honey-combing1 must be creased in regular folds1 taking care that they are as even as possible4 ,then make the folds lie closely together1 by tacking them with a strong thread1 and in long stitches4 ,you then take silk of the right color2 stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds1 and proceed1 with each succeeding two1 in the same manner1 only taking the stitches in the intermediate spaces4 ,thus the stitches of each alternate row will correspond together4 ,draw out the thread1 when the work is finished1 and on pulling it open1 it will form diamonds on the right side4 ,this work is proper for the inside of work-boxes1 and is sometimes employed to ornament the tops of beds4 ,it looks well1 if carefully executed4 ,a perfect acquaintance with these various stitches1 will enable the practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,plain ,,needlework4 ,,instructions ,,in ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,body ,,linen4 ,in order to secure economy of time1 labor1 and expense1 and also to do everything neatly and in order1 the lady who is intending to engage in the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and family use1 should be careful to have all her materials ready1 and disposed in the most systematic manner possible1 before commencing work4 ,the materials employed in the construction of articles1 which come under the denomination of plain needlework1 are so various1 that a mere list of them would occupy more than half our space2 and they are so well known1 that no necessity exists for naming them in detail4 ,we shall therefore proceed1 at once1 to give plain directions1 by which any lady may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses1 merely observing1 that a neat work-box1 well supplied with all the implements required--including knife1 scissors 7of at least three sizes17 needles and pins in sufficient variety1 bodkins1 thimbles1 thread and cotton1 bobbins1 marking silks1 black lead pencils1 india rubber1 c41 should be provided1 and be furnished with a lock and key1 to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children1 servants1 or unauthorized intruders4 ,the lady being thus provided1 and having her materials1 implements1 c41 placed in order upon her work-table1 7to the edge of which it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed1 by means of a screw17 may commence her work1 and proceed with pleasure to herself1 and without annoyance to any visitor1 who may favor her with a call4 ,we would recommend1 wherever practicable1 that the work-table should be made of cedar1 and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a garden1 well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants1 the perfume of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time to sedentary occupations4 ,if these advantages cannot be obtained1 at least the room should be well ventilated1 and furnished with a few cheerful plants1 and a well filled scent-jar4 ,the beneficent ,creator intended all ,his children1 in whatever station of life they might be placed1 to share in the common bounties of ,his providence2 and when she1 who not for pleasure1 but to obtain the means of subsistence1 is compelled to seclude herself1 for days or weeks together1 from the cheering influence of exercise in the open air1 it becomes both her duty1 and that of those for whom she labors1 to secure as much of these advantages1 or of the best substitutes for them1 as the circumstances of the case will admit4 ,we now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though concise rules1 for the preparation of various articles of dress and attire4 ,,aprons4--,these are made of a variety of materials1 and are applied to various uses4 ,the aprons used for common purposes1 are made of white1 blue1 brown1 checked1 and sometimes of black linen2 nankeen1 stuff1 and print1 are also employed4 ,the width is generally one breadth of the material1 and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer4 ,dress aprons are1 of course1 made of finer materials--cambric1 muslin1 silk1 satin1 lace1 clear and other kinds of muslin1 c41 and are generally two breadths in width1 one of which is cut in two1 so as to throw a seam on each side1 and leave an entire breadth for the middle4 ,aprons of all kinds are straight1 and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at the top4 ,those with only one breadth1 are hemmed at the bottom with a broad hem2 those with two breadths1 must be hemmed at the sides likewise4 ,the band should be from half a nail to a nail broad2 its length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer4 ,it should be fastened at the back1 with hooks and eyelet holes4 ,to some aprons1 pockets are attached1 which are either sewed on in front1 or at the back1 and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them4 ,the slit1 or opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly1 or braided1 as may be most desirable4 ,in some kinds of aprons1 bibs are introduced1 which are useful to cover the upper part of the dress4 ,their size must be determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them4 ,,dress ,,aprons4--,take two breadths of any material you choose1 dividing one of them in the middle4 ,hem all round1 with a broad hem1 three-fourths of a nail deep4 ,the band is to be one and a-half nails deep in the middle1 into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted1 on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch4 ,the band is scolloped out from the centre on its lower side1 five and a-half nails1 leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad4 ,to the scolloped portion1 the apron is to be fulled on1 so as to sit as neat as possible2 leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain4 ,confine the folds1 by working two rows of chain stitch1 just below the curved lines of the band1 leaving half an inch between each row4 ,the lower edge of the band is ornamented with a small piping1 but is left plain at the top4 ,,vandyke ,,apron4--,this may be made either of silk or muslin4 ,the edge of the apron is to be turned down1 once all round1 on the right side1 to the depth of three-quarters of a nail2 and the vandykes are formed by running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the material1 which is afterward to be turned in4 ,when the vandykes are completed1 they are to be turned inside out1 and made as smooth as possible4 ,a braid1 or a row of tent stitch1 on the right side1 over the stitches1 is a pretty finish4 ,in setting on the band1 the plaits must be placed opposite each other1 so as to meet in the middle4 ,you may line the band with buckram1 or stiff muslin1 and ornament it with piping if you please4 ,,apron ,,for ,a ,,young ,,person4--,clear muslin is the best material4 ,hem round with a hem1 three-fourths of a nail deep2 lay all round1 within the hem1 a shawl bordering1 not quite so broad as the hem4 ,of course1 the latter must be taken off before washing4 ,a ,,morning ,,apron4--,this may be made like the last1 but instead of the shawl bordering1 surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped frill1 a nail in breadth4 ,the material most in use1 is jacconet or cambric muslin3 the frill1 of lawn or cambric1 which you please4 ,,girl',s ,,apron4--,use any material that is deemed advisable4 ,the bib is to be made to fit the wearer1 in front1 between the shoulders1 and sloping to the waist4 ,the apron is to be gathered1 or plaited to the band2 and the shoulder straps may be of the same material1 or of ribbon4 ,the bib1 either plain or ornamented1 with tucks or folds1 as may be deemed most suitable4 ,,bathing ,,gown4--,the materials employed are various1 flannels1 stuff1 or calamanca1 are the most preferable1 giving free ingress to the water4 ,the length must be determined by the height of the wearer1 and the width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails4 ,it should be folded as you would a pinafore1 and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails for the shoulder4 ,the slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and three-quarters long1 and the sleeves are to be set in plain3 the length of the latter is not material4 ,it is useful to have a slit of three inches1 in front of each4 ,the gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom1 and to be gathered into a band at the top1 which is to be drawn tight with strings2 the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or wrist1 in a similar manner4 ,,bustles4--,these are worn1 to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon the person4 ,they are made the width of the material1 and eight nails deep4 ,the piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces2 one four nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep4 ,a case1 to admit of tapes1 is to be made one nail from the top1 and the bottom of each flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it4 ,when worn1 the article is turned inside out4 ,the materials are strong jean1 or calico4 ,,caps4--,these are made of a great variety of patterns1 and the materials are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied4 ,muslins of various kinds1 lawn1 net1 lace1 and calico1 are all in request2 and the borders are extremely various4 ,muslin1 net1 or lace1 being those most in common use4 ,the shapes are so multifarious1 as to preclude us from giving any specific directions4 ,every lady must choose her own pattern1 as best suits the purpose she has in view4 ,the patterns should be cut in paper1 and considerable care is requisite1 in cutting out1 not to waste the material4 ,a little careful practice will soon make this department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle4 ,,child',s ,,collar4--,this is made of double ,irish linen1 and is stitched round and made to fall over the dress4 ,frills are generally attached to them1 and give them a pretty finish4 ,they are proper for children1 of eight or nine years of age4 ,,cravats4--,these are of fine muslin1 and are made in the shape of a half handkerchief4 ,they are hemmed with a narrow hem1 and should be cut from muslin1 eighteen nails square4 ,,cloaks4--,these useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made up by a dress-maker2 it is unnecessary therefore to give particular directions concerning them4 ,the materials are silks and stuffs1 of almost every variety1 including satin1 merino cloth1 real and imitation shawling plaids1 and ,orleans4 ,the latter is now very generally used4 ,travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material1 and are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used in walking dresses4 ,satin cloaks look well with velvet collars1 and are also frequently trimmed with the same material4 ,merino1 and also silk cloaks1 are often trimmed with fur1 or velvet1 and lined with the same4 ,sometimes they are made perfectly plain4 ,the lining of a silk or satin cloak1 should be of the same color1 or else a well-chosen contrast2 and care should be taken1 that the color should be one that is not liable to fade1 or to receive damage4 ,an attention to these general remarks1 will be found of much advantage to the lady who1 in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance of appearance with durability of wear1 and economy of price4 ,,frills4--,these are used as ornaments1 or a finish to various articles of dress4 ,the materials are cambric muslin1 lace1 net1 c41 and the manner in which they are made is various4 ,sometimes they are set on quite plain1 that is1 hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds1 to the width required4 ,at other times1 frills are fitted to a band1 and the edge that is to be hemmed1 is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin2 it is put on as an ornament to a gown1 and is tied with strings at the end4 ,crimped frills are worn by young children1 and look extremely neat4 ,they are made of lawn or cambric1 and sewed on to a band4 ,the other edge is hemmed1 and the frill is double the size round the neck4 ,the band should be half a nail in depth1 and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as possible4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,belts4--,these are worn by persons who have much and violent exercise1 and are extremely useful4 ,they are made of strong jean or other material1 and sometimes of leather1 and may either be made straight1 or a little slant1 or peaked4 ,runners of cotton are inserted1 to make them more strong1 and they must be furnished with long straps of webbing at the ends1 sewed on with leather over them4 ,the straps are about three inches in depth4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,collars4--,these are very generally worn1 and are shaped in a variety of ways4 ,they are made double1 and ornamented with a single or double row of back stitch4 ,they are made to button round the neck1 or are set on to a band for that purpose4 ,it is best to cut the pattern in paper1 and when a good fit is obtained1 cut the cloth by the paper model4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,fronts4--,the material is fine lawn or cambric4 ,sometimes the sides are composed of the former1 and the middle of the latter4 ,a false hem is made down the middle1 furnished with buttons1 as if to open2 the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail1 and is plaited or gathered into a stock or band4 ,in order that it may sit neat upon the bosom1 two neck gussets are introduced4 ,,ladies' ,,drawers4--,choose any proper material1 and form the article by making two legs1 set on to a band to fasten round the waist4 ,set on a plain or worked frill at the bottom4 ,when setting the legs on to the band1 place them so as to overlap each other4 ,the band is eleven nails long1 and three deep4 ,,ladies' ,,flannel ,,waistcoat4--,this is1 in many cases1 an indispensable article of female attire4 ,for an ordinary size1 you must take a piece of flannel twelve nails wide1 and seven deep1 folding it exactly in the middle4 ,at two nails from the front1 which is doubled1 the arm holes must be cut1 leaving two nails for half of the back4 ,the front is to be slightly hollowed4 ,at the bottom1 cut a slit of three nails1 immediately under the arm holes2 insert a gore three nails broad1 and the same in length1 and terminating in a point4 ,bosom-gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape1 and just half the size4 ,they are to be put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap4 ,in making the waistcoat1 it is to be herring-boned all round1 as are also all the gores and slits4 ,a broad tape1 one nail in width1 is laid down each side of the front1 in which the button holes are made1 and buttons set on2 the shoulder-straps are of tape1 and the waistcoat fastens in front4 ,,ladies' ,,night ,,jackets4--,the materials are various1 including lawn1 linen1 and calico4 ,the jackets are made of two breadths1 and as it is desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder1 the two breadths should be cut in one length1 and carefully doubled in the middle4 ,the neck is to be slit open1 leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders2 and a slit is also to be made in front1 so as to allow the garment to pass freely over the head of the wearer2 the sides are then to be seamed up1 leaving proper slits for the arm holes2 and the neck and bosom are to be hemmed as neatly as possible4 ,the sleeves are to be made the required length1 and gathered into a band at the wrist1 after being felled into the arm holes mentioned above4 ,a neat frill round the neck1 bosom1 and wrists1 finishes the whole4 ,,night ,,gowns4--,these must be made of a size suitable for the wearer4 ,the following are directions for three different sizes4 ,the length of the gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size1 one yard and six nails for the second1 and one yard and three nails for the third2 the width of the material is eighteen1 sixteen1 and fourteen nails1 respectively2 and the garment is to have one yard and a half breadth in width4 ,they are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom twenty-one1 eighteen1 and sixteen1 nails3 and at the top1 fifteen1 fourteen1 and twelve nails1 as the sizes may require4 ,the length of the sleeves is nine1 eight1 and seven nails1 and the width half a breadth2 they are to be furnished with gussets1 three1 two1 and two nails square1 and with wristbands of the proper width1 and of any depth that is deemed desirable4 ,a binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve1 which strengthens it much4 ,the gown is furnished with a collar about three nails deep1 and of the length required by the wearer2 and1 in order that it may fit properly1 neck gussets of two1 one1 and one nail square1 are to be introduced4 ,a slit of about six nails is made in front1 which is hemmed round1 and the space left for the shoulders is three1 two and a-half and two nails1 respectively4 ,the whole is finished with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands4 ,if economy is an object1 cut three gowns together4 ,this will prevent much waste of material2 an object1 by every head of a family1 to be constantly kept in view4 ,,neck ,,and ,,pocket ,,handkerchiefs4--,these are made of a great variety of materials1 as silk1 muslin1 cambric1 lawn1 and net4 ,the neck handkerchiefs are generally a half square1 and are hemmed all round4 ,it is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners1 as it makes it more strong and durable4 ,a tape is set on1 which comes 'round the waist1 and ties in front4 ,sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight sides1 which looks extremely well4 ,some ladies work a border to their neck handkerchief1 which gives to those made of net the appearance of lace4 ,pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed1 and sometimes have a worked border4 ,those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those of ladies4 ,,petticoats 7,,flannel74--,these are not only useful1 but indispensable articles of dress4 ,fine flannel is the best1 as it is most durable1 and keeps its color best in washing4 ,the length of the petticoat is regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended2 and the width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half4 ,the bottom is hemmed with a broad hem2 and the top is gathered1 and set on to a strong band of calico1 or jean1 leaving the front nearly plain4 ,sometimes a button hole is made1 about two nails from the ends of the band1 to which strings of tape are attached2 these are passed through the opposite holes1 and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle1 which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure4 ,a slit of about four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round1 or bound with a strong binding4 ,,petticoats are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth1 and also to make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person4 ,they should have three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width1 and the bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep1 or with tucks or worked muslin4 ,the latter is extremely neat4 ,they are to be set on to a strong band1 or stock1 and are to have a slit left at the back about four nails in length4 ,the skirt may be gathered full all round1 or only at the back and front1 leaving the sides plain2 sometimes all the fulness is thrown to the back4 ,having shoulder-straps to keep up the petticoat1 is a great advantage2 but they are unnecessary if a waist1 or body with or without sleeves1 be set on the band4 ,in this case the body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible4 ,the band is generally about one nail in breadth4 ,the materials proper for petticoats are dimity1 calico1 cambric1 jacconet muslin1 calamanca1 stuff1 c4 ,what are called middle1 or under petticoats1 are made in the same manner4 ,those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing their own infants1 and who wear petticoats with bodies to them1 have them open in front4 ,,pinafore4--,this is a useful article of dress1 especially in large families4 ,holland is the best material4 ,for an open one1 one breadth is sufficient4 ,double the pinafore into four1 and cut the arm holes to the required depth in the two side folds1 so that half will form the front4 ,the neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle1 and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band1 which fastens by a button behind4 ,sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes1 being gathered near the edge1 and set on before the arm hole is hemmed1 so that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear4 ,the lappet is a second time to be gathered at the edge1 and sewed down as fast as possible4 ,then hem the other edge1 and conceal the stitches with silk braid that will wash4 ,a small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is an advantage1 as it makes it stronger4 ,they are to be fastened round the waist with a band1 or with a strap and buckle4 ,the latter is most to be preferred4 ,for a close pinafore1 two breadths of ,holland1 or other material1 will be required4 ,it is seamed up at the sides1 leaving slits for the arm holes1 and has a collar and sleeves2 as also a band to go round the middle of the wearer4 ,neck gussets may be introduced1 but the much neater way is1 to double the pinafore into four1 and let in a piece at each shoulder1 about a nail wide1 and two nails in length1 gathering each quarter from the arm holes1 into the pieces so let in1 and felling similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder4 ,the two middle quarters are to be gathered into half the collar1 and the back in the same manner4 ,the sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt1 and are gathered into the arm holes4 ,a slit is made at the hands1 and the bottom is gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth4 ,,pockets4--,these are made of any kind of material you please4 ,you take a piece of double1 and cut it to the shape required4 ,stitch the two pieces neatly round1 a little distance from the edge4 ,then turn it1 and let the seam be well flattened1 and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an inch from the edge2 cut a slit down about four nails1 which is to be either hemmed1 or have a tape laid round it on the inside4 ,set on the strings1 and the pocket is complete4 ,some ladies have pockets attached to the petticoat4 ,in that case1 it is only a square of calico1 about ten nails long1 and eight broad1 set on to the inside of the petticoat1 as plain as possible4 ,a ,,ribbon ,,scarf4--,this is made of broad satin ribbon1 and must not be less than two nails and a half wide3 its length is two yards and three quarters4 ,the ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side1 and run in a slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck4 ,the ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid1 or left plain1 as may suit the fancy4 ,the scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan's down4 ,this is an elegant article of female attire4 ,,plain ,,scarf4--,this is generally made of net1 the whole breadth1 and two yards and a half long4 ,it is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to admit a ribbon to be run in1 which gives it a neat and finished appearance4 ,,an ,,indian ,,scarf4--,this is an elegant article of dress and can be easily made4 ,the material is a rich ,cashmere1 and three colors are required3 that is1 black1 scarlet1 and a mazarine blue4 ,you must have the scarf four nails and a half in width1 and one yard and six nails in length3 this must be black4 ,then you must have of the other two colors1 pieces seven nails long1 and the same width as the black1 and you are1 after finding the exact middle of the black stripe1 to slope off one nail and a half toward each side1 and then slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece1 so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously prepared4 ,you are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the ends4 ,you are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down the middle1 and join half of the one to the half of the other1 as accurately1 as possible4 ,the pieces thus joined together are to be sewed to the black stripe1 and the utmost care must be taken to make the points unite properly4 ,you are to sew the pieces fast together1 and herring-bone them all round on the right side4 ,you finish by laying a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings4 ,it should be of a clear1 bright color4 ,the ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue1 to correspond with the two half stripes4 ,this is suitable for a walking dress1 or an evening party4 ,a ,,dress ,,shawl4--,take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin velvet or plush1 which you please1 and line it with sarcenet either white1 or colored2 trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk or satin1 from one to one nail and a half in breadth1 and cut crossway4 ,or you may trim it with fur1 lace1 or fringe4 ,,cashmere ,,shawl4--,you will require for the centre a piece of colored ,cashmere1 one yard six nails square1 which is to be hemmed round with a narrow hem4 ,you must then take four stripes all of ,cashmere1 or of a shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre1 which must be hemmed on both sides1 and then sewed on1 so as that the stitches may appear as little as possible4 ,the border should be three nails broad1 and of course joined point to point at the corners2 and it must be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each other4 ,the shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round1 and sometimes by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings4 ,a ,,lady',s ,,walking ,,shawl4--,this may be made of cloth1 merino1 or silk2 and either a whole1 or half square1 at pleasure4 ,the dimensions are one yard and twelve nails1 and the lining is of silk4 ,in order that when the shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time1 care must be taken1 after laying on the border on two successive sides1 to turn the shawl1 and then lay on the remainder of the border4 ,the trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety4 ,a ,,travelling ,,shawl4--,this is easily made1 and is very warm and convenient4 ,take a square of wadding1 and double it cornerways2 cover it with muslin1 or silk1 and trim it as you please4 ,,mourning ,,shawls4--,these may be made either of half a square of black silk1 entirely covered with crape1 which is proper for deep mourning1 or you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk1 and border it with a hem of crape1 two nails deep1 laid on upon the two straight sides of the shawl4 ,,shifts4--,these are generally made of fine ,irish1 or calico4 ,they are made either with gores1 or crossed4 ,the latter is the neatest method4 ,two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift1 and gores are cut off a given width at the bottom1 and extending to a point1 in order to widen the garment4 ,in crossing a shift1 you first sew the long seams2 then you double it in a slanting direction1 so as to mark off at the top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners2 this done1 you join the narrow ends together1 and sew the cross seams1 leaving a sufficient slit for the arm holes4 ,there are various methods of cutting the back and bosom4 ,some cut out a scollop both before and behind2 but in this case1 the back is hollowed out one third less than the front4 ,some ladies hollow out the back1 but form the bosom with a flap1 which may be cut either straight1 or in a slanting direction from the shoulders4 ,another method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate from the shift1 and making the top quite straight2 bosom gores are then let in1 in front2 the top is hemmed both before and behind1 and a frill gives a neat finish to the whole4 ,the sleeves may be either set in plain or full1 as suits the taste of the wearer4 ,sometimes the sleeve and gusset are all in one piece2 at other times they are separate4 ,in all cases1 great care should be taken in cutting out1 not to waste the material4 ,for this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at one time4 ,shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age1 are generally made with flaps both before and behind4 ,this is decidedly the neatest shape for them4 ,the bottom1 in all cases1 should be hemmed with a broad hem4 ,,shirts4--,these are generally made of linen2 but calico is also made use of4 ,the degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and station of the wearer4 ,a long piece of linen will1 if cut with care1 make several shirts of an ordinary man's size4 ,in cutting1 you must take a shirt of the required dimensions1 as a pattern2 and1 by it1 measure the length of several bodies1 not cutting any but the last4 ,then cut off the other bodies2 and from the remainder1 cut off the sleeves1 binders1 gussets1 c41 measuring by the pattern4 ,bosom-pieces1 falls1 collars1 c41 must be fitted1 and cut by a paper or other pattern1 which suits the person for whom the articles are intended4 ,in making up1 the bodies should be doubled1 so as to leave the front flap one nail shorter than that behind4 ,then1 marking off the spaces for the length of the flaps and arm holes1 sew up the seams4 ,the bosom-slit is five nails1 and three nails is the space left for the shoulders4 ,the space for the neck will be nine nails4 ,one breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves1 and the length is from nine to ten nails4 ,the collar1 and the wristbands1 are made to fit the neck and wrists1 and the breadths are so various1 that no general rule can be given4 ,you make the binders1 or linings1 about twelve nails in length1 and three in breadth2 and the sleeve gussets are three2 the neck gusset1 two2 the flap gussets1 one2 and the bosom gusset1 half a nail square4 ,the work1 or stitches1 introduced into the collar1 wristbands1 c41 are to be regulated according to the taste of the maker1 or the wearer4 ,gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner1 only they are larger4 ,the cloth recommended to be used1 is that kind of linen which is called shirting-width4 ,where a smaller size is required1 a long strip will cut off from the width1 which will be found useful for binders1 wristbands1 c4 ,,veils4--,these are made of net1 gauze1 or lace1 and are plain or worked1 as suits the taste of the wearer4 ,white veils are generally of lace3 mourning ones are made of black crape4 ,the jet-black is to be preferred1 as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black4 ,colored veils look well with a satin ribbon of the same color1 about a nail deep1 put on as a hem all round4 ,for white ones1 a ribbon of a light color is preferable1 as it makes a slight contrast4 ,a crape1 or gauze veil1 is hemmed round2 that at the bottom being something broader than the rest4 ,all veils have strings run in at the top1 and riding ones are frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom1 which enables the wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one1 by tying the second string round her bonnet1 where she is desirous to screen her eyes from the sun and dust1 and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool and refreshing breeze4 ,demi-veils are short veils1 fulled all round the bonnet1 but most at the ears1 which makes them fall more gracefully4 ,it is advisable to take them up a little at the ears1 so as not to leave them the full depth3 without this precaution1 they are liable to appear unsightly and slovenly4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,plain ,,needlework4 ,,instructions ,,in ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,house ,,linen4 ,,bed-,,room ,,linen4--,this includes quilts1 blankets1 sheets1 pillow covers1 towels1 table covers1 and pincushion covers4 ,,quilts4--,these are of various sizes and qualities1 in accordance with the purposes to which they are to be applied4 ,they are generally made of the outside material and the lining1 7wadding or flannel being laid between17 and stitched in diamonds or other devices4 ,the stitches must pass through the whole1 and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by a binding proper for the purpose4 ,they are best done in a frame4 ,,blankets4--,these are bought ready prepared for use4 ,it is sometimes advisable to work over the edges at the end1 which should be done with scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch4 ,,sheets4--,these are made of fine linen1 coarse linen1 and calico4 ,linen sheets are in general to be preferred4 ,the seam up the middle must be sewed as neat as possible1 and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed3 the latter is the preferable method4 ,sheets1 and all bed-room linen1 should be marked and numbered4 ,to add the date of the year is also an advantage4 ,,pillow ,,covers4--,these are made of fine or coarse linen1 and sometimes of calico4 ,the material should be of such a width as to correspond with the length of the pillow4 ,one yard and three nails1 doubled and seamed up1 is the proper size4 ,one end is seamed up1 and the other hemmed with a broad hem1 and furnished with strings or buttons1 as is deemed most convenient4 ,we think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled1 to admit the pillow4 ,the selvages are then sewn together1 and the ends seamed and hemmed1 as before directed4 ,bolster covers are made in nearly the same manner1 only a round patch is let into one end1 and a tape slot is run into the other4 ,,towels4--,towels are made of a diaper or huckaback1 of a quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable4 ,they should be one yard long1 and about ten or twelve nails wide4 ,the best are bought single1 and are fringed at the ends4 ,others are neatly hemmed1 and sometimes have a tape loop attached to them1 by which they can be suspended against a wall4 ,,dressing ,,table ,,covers4--,these may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose4 ,fine diaper generally1 but sometimes dimity and muslin are employed1 or the table is covered with a kind of ,marseilles quilting which is prepared expressly for the purpose4 ,sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round1 but they look much neater if fringed1 or bordered with a moderately full frill4 ,sometimes a worked border is set on4 ,all depends upon taste and fancy4 ,a neat and genteel appearance in accordance with the furniture of the apartment1 should be especially regarded4 ,,pincushion ,,covers4--,a large pincushion1 having two covers belonging to it1 should belong to each toilet table4 ,the covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped4 ,they may be either worked or plain1 and should have small tassels at each corner1 and a frill or fringe all round4 ,,table ,,linen4--,this department of plain needlework comprises table cloths1 dinner napkins1 and large and small tray napkins4 ,,table ,,cloths4--,these may be purchased either singly or cut from the piece4 ,in the latter case1 the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible4 ,,dinner ,,napkins4--,these are of various materials2 if cut from the piece1 they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths4 ,large and small tray napkins1 and knife-box cloths1 are made in the same manner4 ,the hemming of all these should be extremely neat4 ,it is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies2 and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be formed1 which will be found very beneficial in after life4 ,,pantry ,,linen4--,in this department you will have to prepare pantry cloths1 dresser cloths1 plate basket cloths1 china1 glass1 and lamp cloths1 and aprons4 ,pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and durable material4 ,the dresser cloths1 or covers1 look neat and are useful4 ,they are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness2 but some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask4 ,the plate basket cloth is a kind of bag1 which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored4 ,they are made of linen1 which is well fitted to the sides1 and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of the basket1 is neatly seamed in4 ,the sides are made to hang over the basket1 and are drawn round the rim by a tape1 run into a slit for that purpose4 ,china cloths1 and also glass cloths1 are to be made of fine soft linen1 or diaper2 and the cloths used in cleaning lamps1 c41 must be of flannel1 linen1 or silk4 ,all these articles are to be made in the same manner1 that is1 hemmed neatly at the ends2 or if there be no selvages1 or but indifferent ones1 all round4 ,nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths1 which are for domestic use4 ,little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by the more affluent1 in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration be given them4 ,they would thus become more sensible of the value of time1 and would contract habits of industry1 which would be of essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress through life4 ,a fair price paid for work done1 either by a child or an adult1 is far preferable to what is called charity4 ,it at once promotes industry1 and encourages a spirit of honest independence1 which is far removed from unbecoming pride1 as it is from mean and sneaking servility4 ,benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman2 and we hope that all our fair readers will ever bear in mind1 that real benevolence will seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of the comforts of life1 by the honest employment of those gifts and talents1 with which ,providence may have endowed them4 ,,housemaid ,,and ,,kitchen ,,linen4--,the next subject to which the attention of the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed1 is the preparation of housemaid and kitchen linen4 ,on these subjects1 a very few general observations will be all that is necessary4 ,in the housemaid's department1 paint cloths1 old and soft1 and chamber-bottle cloths1 fine and soft1 are to be provided4 ,to these must be added1 dusters1 flannels for scouring1 and chamber bucket cloths1 which last should be of a kind and color different from any thing else4 ,all these must be neatly hemmed and run1 or seamed1 if necessary4 ,nothing in a well directed family should bear the impress of neglect1 or be suffered to assume an untidy appearance4 ,clothes bags of different sizes1 should also be provided1 of two yards in length1 and either one breadth doubled1 in which case only one seam will be required2 or of two breadths1 which makes the bag more suitable for large articles of clothing4 ,these bags are to seamed up neatly at the bottom1 and to have strings which will draw1 run in at the top4 ,the best material is canvas1 or good1 strong unbleached linen4 ,in the kitchen department1 you will require both table and dresser cloths2 which should be made as neat as possible4 ,long towels1 of good linen1 and of a sufficient length1 should be made1 to hang on rollers2 they are generally a full breadth1 so that hemming the sides is unnecessary4 ,they should be two yards long1 when doubled1 and the ends should be secured strongly and neatly together4 ,if the selvage is bad1 the best way is to hem it at once4 ,kitchen dusters1 tea cloths1 and knife cloths1 may be made of any suitable material2 but in all cases let the edges be turned down1 and neatly sewed or overcast4 ,,pudding ,,cloth4--,this should be made of coarse linen1 neatly hemmed round1 furnished with strings of strong tape1 and marked4 ,,jelly ,,bag4--,this is made of a half square1 doubled so as to still form a half square4 ,the top must be hemmed1 and be furnished with three loops1 by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use4 ,some miscellaneous instructions1 which could not otherwise be introduced1 are to be found in the concluding chapter4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,plain ,,needlework4 ,,miscellaneous ,,instructions4 ,,binding4--,various kinds of work have binding set on to them in preference to hemming them1 or working them in herring-bone stitch4 ,flannel is generally bound2 sometimes with a thin tape1 made for that purpose1 and called flannel binding4 ,it is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet ribbon4 ,the binding is so put on1 as to show but little over the edge on the right side1 where it is hemmed down neatly2 on the other side1 it is run on with small stitches4 ,,braiding4--,silk braid looks pretty1 and is used for a variety of purposes4 ,in putting it on1 it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid1 as it is a better match1 and the stitches will be less perceived4 ,,marking4--,it is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and numbered4 ,this is often done with ink1 but as some persons like to mark with silk1 we shall describe the stitch4 ,two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth1 and the needle must be passed three ways1 in order that the stitch may be complete4 ,the first is aslant from the person1 toward the right hand2 the second is downward1 toward you3 and the third is the reverse of the first1 that is1 aslant from you toward the left hand4 ,the needle is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch1 nearest to that you are about to make4 ,the shapes of the letters or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler4 ,,piping4--,this is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses4 ,it is made by inclosing a cord1 of the proper thickness1 in a stripe of silk1 cut the cross-way1 and must be put on as evenly as possible4 ,,plaiting4--,the plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them1 one against another4 ,in double plaiting they lie both ways1 and meet in the middle4 ,,tucks4--,these require to be made even4 ,you should have the breadth of the tuck1 and also the space between each1 notched on a card4 ,they look the best run on with small and regular stitches4 ,you must be careful to take a back-stitch constantly1 as you proceed4 ,,making ,,buttons4--,cover the wire with a piece of calico1 or other material of the proper size2 turn in the corners neatly1 and work round the wire in button-hole stitch2 work the centre like a star4 ,some may think that we have been too minute2 but we were desirous to omit nothing that could be generally useful2 and we have had regard also to those ladies who1 having been under no necessity of practising plain needlework in their earlier years1 are desirous of preparing articles for their humbler fellow creatures1 or by the sale of which1 they procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity4 ,we have good reason to believe1 that many well-disposed persons would be glad1 in this way1 to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of their leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--but they are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable them to do so4 ,to all such1 we hope our little manual will be an acceptable offering1 and enable them1 by a judicious employment of the means and talents committed to their trust1 to realize the truth of the saying of the wise man1 ,there is that scattereth and yet increaseth4 ,,diagram4 #a #b #c #d #e #f #g #h #i #aj ---------------------------------------- #aa #ab #ac #ad #ae #af #ag #ah #ai #bj ---------------------------------------- #ba #bb #bc #bd #be #bf #bg #bh #bi #cj ---------------------------------------- #ca #cb #cc #cd #ce #cf #cg #ch #ci #dj ---------------------------------------- #da #db #dc #dd #de #df #dg #dh #di #ej ---------------------------------------- #ea #eb #ec #ed #ee #ef #eg #eh #ei #fj ---------------------------------------- #fa #fb #fc #fd #fe #ff #fg #fh #fi #gj ---------------------------------------- #ga #gb #gc #gd #ge #gf #gg #gh #gi #hj ---------------------------------------- #ha #hb #hc #hd #he #hf #hg #hh #hi #ij ---------------------------------------- #ia #ib #ic #id #ie #if #ig #ih #ii #ajj ---------------------------------------- #aja #ajb #ajc #ajd #aje #ajf #ajg #ajh #aji #aaj ---------------------------------------- #aaa #aab #aac #aad #aae #aaf #aag #aah #aai #abj ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,in order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easy of acquirement as possible1 we subjoin the following diagram2 any lady will thus be able to form the various stitches1 by simply taking a piece of canvas1 and counting the corresponding number of threads1 necessary to form a square like the diagram2 she will perceive the lines represent the threads of the canvas1 the squares numbered being the holes formed by the intersection of the threads2 and following the directions given in the accompanying chapter1 she will soon be able to work any patterns here exhibited1 and such new ones as her inventive genius may lead her to design4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches4 ,the ,art of ,fancy ,needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of ,painting and ,design2 and appears to have been well understood amongst the most polished nations of antiquity4 ,we know that the art was practised with considerable success1 by the ,babylonians1 ,egyptians1 ,persians1 and ,arabians1 as well as by the ,greeks and ,romans4 ,the ,jews brought the art of needlework with them1 out of ,egypt1 as we learn from the directions for building the ,tabernacle1 and preparing the holy garments2 and ,sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered cloths1 in which part of her extensive traffic consisted4 ,in more modern times1 we find the fair hands of the ladies of ,europe employed in depicting the events of history1 in tapestry1 of which the much celebrated ,bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by ,matilda1 the beloved wife of ,william the ,norman--detailing the various occurrences in the life of ,harold1 from his arrival in ,normandy1 to the fatal battle of ,hastings1 is a standing proof4 ,ladies of high rank employed themselves thus1 for various purposes1 previous to the reformation2 and it is a fact1 worthy of especial notice1 that in those ages1 when it has been required for the adornment of the temples1 and the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue1 it has flourished most4#fd-99 ,queen ,adelicia1 wife of ,henry ,i42 ,ann1 queen of ,france2 ,catherine1 of ,aragon2 ,lady ,jane ,grey2 ,mary ,queen of ,scots2 and ,queen ,elizabeth1 all excelled in this delightful art4 ,at the ,reformation1 or soon after that event1 needlework began sensibly to decline1 and continued to do so1 until the commencement of the present century4 ,at that time1 a new and elevated development of mind began to appear1 which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every department of arts and sciences4 ,this revival of the fine arts1 like the mental and sacred gushing forth of mind1 which gave it birth1 was often in extremely bad taste2 but as the latter becomes more purified and exalted1 the former advances in improvement--mind asserts its superiority over matter1 and infuses into the useful and ornamental1 a living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment4 ,the year #ahjj gave to the world1 the celebrated ,berlin patterns2 but it was not until a lapse of thirty years1 that their merits became generally appreciated2 but now1 such is the perfection attained in the cultivation of the art of needlework1 that some of its productions1 for delicacy and expression1 may almost bear comparison with painting in oil4 ,illustration ,,tent ,,stitch4--,work the cross way of the canvas1 bringing your needle up through the diagram1 ,no4 #b down #aa1 one stitch2 up #c down #ab1 up #d down #ac1 and so continue to the end4 ,this stitch is proper for grounding1 and for groups of flowers2 but in the latter case1 it will produce the best effect if the flowers are done in tent stitch1 and the grounding in tent cross stitch 7which is the same as tent stitch1 only crossed47 ,illustration ,,cross ,,stitch4--,is the same as marking stitch2 bring your needle up #ba down #c1 up #bc down #a1 one stitch1 up #da down #bc1 up #dc down #ba1 and so continue till your work is finished4 ,all the stitches must incline to the right1 or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly4 ,illustration ,,double ,,cross ,,stitch4--,this is a stitch very easy of execution4 ,bring your needle up ,no4 #da1 over four threads1 down #e1 up #a down #de1 up #dc down #be1 up #c down #be1 up #c down #ba1 up #dc down #ba1 one stitch4 ,four1 six1 or eight threads may be taken in depth1 and two in width1 according as taste may suggest4 ,this is an admirable stitch for large pieces of work4 ,gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to its attractive beauty4 ,illustration ,,straight ,,cross ,,stitch4--,this is a new invention1 and has a pretty appearance4 ,bring your needle up ,no4 #aa down #ac1 up #b down #bb1 one stitch2 up #ca down #cc1 up #bb down #db1 and so on in like manner1 till the work is finished4 ,illustration ,,double ,,straight ,,cross ,,stitch4--,bring your needle up ,no4 #c down #dc1 up #ba down #be1 up #ad down #cb1 up #ab down #cd1 one stitch4 ,owing to the number of times the wool is crossed1 each stitch has a very bead-like appearance4 ,a piece wholly worked in this1 has an admirable effect4 ,illustration ,,gobelin ,,stitch4--,this truly beautiful stitch is especially calculated for working on canvas traced with flowers1 leaves1 c42 and also for working designs1 copied from oil paintings4 ,bring your needle up ,no4 #b down #ba1 one stitch1 up #c down #bb1 up #d down #bc1 and so on to the end of the row4 ,the stitches may be taken either in height or width1 as may best accord with the taste1 or with the subject represented4 ,illustration ,,basket ,,stitch4--,this is the same as ,irish stitch1 but the arrangement is different4 ,work three stitches over two threads2 these are called short stitches2 and then the long ones are formed by working three over six threads1 the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches were worked4 ,thus you must continue the short and long stitches alternately1 until you have finished the row4 ,in the next1 the long stitches must come under the short ones2 and this diversity must be kept up until all the rows are completed4 ,to finish the pattern1 you have only to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of the short ones1 and the task is done4 ,illustration ,,irish ,,stitch4--,this is the production of an ,irish lady of high rank4 ,bring your needle up ,no4 #a over four threads down #da1 one stitch back two threads1 up #bb down #fb1 up #dc 7observe this is in a line with #da7 down #hc1 up #fd 7in a line with #fb7 down #ajd1 up #ajb down #fb1 up #ha down #da1 continuing thus over the square4 ,the spaces left between every other stitch must be filled up with half stitches2 for instance1 up #ha down #aja1 up #hc down #ajc4 ,it is also sometimes worked covering six and eight threads of the canvas at a time1 coming back three or four threads1 in the same proportion as the directions given4 ,this stitch is proper for grounding1 when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch2 and the effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same color4 ,it can be applied to a great variety of devices1 diamonds and vandykes for example1 and many others which will suggest themselves to the fair votaries of this delightful art4 ,it looks pretty1 and is easy of execution4 ,illustration ,,feather ,,stitch4--,this1 as its name implies1 has a light and feathery appearance1 and will be found proper for any work in which lightness should predominate4 ,you must proceed as in tent stitch1 and work over twelve threads or less1 but not more2 then bring your needle out one thread below1 and cross on each side of your straight stitch3 you must so continue1 taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the bottom even with the long stitch with which you began4 ,thus proceed until you have ten threads on the cross1 which will make a square3 of course you must1 in the same manner1 form all the squares necessary to complete the row4 ,you can vary the pattern considerably by making the edges irregular1 which is done by lowering your slant stitches1 the first one two1 and the next one thread1 and so proceeding4 ,this will1 in our opinion1 improve the appearance of the work4 ,you can introduce as many shades as you please1 only taking care that a proper contrast is duly preserved4 ,you finish by stitching up the centre of each row on a single thread4 ,for this purpose1 silk or gold thread may be introduced with advantage4 ,it should be remarked1 that each row must be worked the contrary way to the one that preceded it1 so that the wide and narrow portions may meet and blend with each other4 ,illustration ,,point ,,stitch4--,to work this stitch1 take four threads straight way of the canvas1 and bring the needle three steps up1 and so proceed until your point is of a sufficient depth4 ,this stitch looks pretty1 worked in different and well contrasted shades1 and may be applied to many useful and ornamental purposes4 ,illustration ,,queen ,,stitch4--,work over four threads in height and two in width1 crossing from right to left1 and back again4 ,finish each row by a stitch across1 between them1 taking a thread of each1 and1 of course1 working upon two threads4 ,this is a very neat stitch4 ,illustration ,,queen',s ,,vandyke4--,this is supposed to be the invention of ,princess ,clementina1 one of the daughters1 we believe of a king of ,france4 ,take twelve threads1 and reduce two each stitch1 until the length and breadth are in conformity4 ,it can be introduced into a variety of work1 and looks well4 ,illustration ,,single ,,plait ,,stitch4--,pass the needle across the canvas through two threads1 from right to left2 you then cross four threads downward1 and pass the needle as before2 then cross upward over two threads aslant1 and again pass over four threads1 always working downward1 and passing the needle from right to left1 across two threads1 until the row is completed as far as you desire4 ,illustration ,,double ,,plait ,,stitch4--,this stitch is from left to right across four threads aslant downward1 and crossed from right to left1 the needle passing out at the left1 in the middle of the four threads just crossed1 and so continue working downward1 until you have finished the pattern4 ,,velvet ,,stitch4--,this is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch1 and is very ornamental when properly done4 ,you work in plain cross stitch three rows1 then leave three threads1 and again work three rows as before2 thus proceed until your canvas is covered1 leaving three threads between every triple row of cross stitch4 ,then across the rows work in queen stitch with double wool2 but instead of taking two distinct threads for each stitch1 you may take one thread of the preceding stitch2 this will give an added thickness to your work4 ,it will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment1 as doing so will make it better to cut4 ,if you work it in squares1 they should not be larger than seventeen stitches2 and to look well1 they must each be placed the contrary way to the other4 ,,algerine ,,work4--,this work much resembles a ,venetian carpet1 but is finer2 it looks best done in very small patterns4 ,it is worked over cotton piping cord1 the straight way of the corners2 the stitches are over three threads4 ,your work as in raised work1 putting the colors in as you come to them1 and counting three stitches in width1 as one stitch when you are working ,berlin pattern4 ,the paper canvas is ,no4 #de and the cord ,no4 #jj4 ,it is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work4 ,,to ,,fill ,,up ,,corners4--,work in any stitch you prefer and shade in accordance with the subject4 ,in these1 and ornamental borders1 c41 there is much room for the development of taste and judgment4 ,in all that1 you undertake1 it will be well for you to recollect1 that nothing is lost by taking time to think4 ,however trivial and unimportant our actions may be1 they should always be preceded by mature deliberation4 ,a habit of thought once established will remain through life1 and protect its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions1 and the agonies of remorse and unavailable repentance4 ,,footnotes3 #fd-99 ,the presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of approval in the ages of chivalry4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,patterns4 ,illustration ,,the ,,beaufort ,,star4--,this is a beautiful pattern1 and will look well1 as a centre1 for any moderately-sized piece of work4 ,begin on the width of the canvas1 and take twelve threads1 reducing at every stitch1 one thread for six rows1 and thus continue decreasing and increasing alternately1 to form squares like diamonds1 to the end of the row4 ,the next row is performed in the same manner1 only you work on the long way of the canvas4 ,introduce gold or silver thread between where the stitches join1 and so finish4 ,illustration ,,chess ,,pattern4--,work a square in cross stitch1 with three stitches1 making three of a dark shade and six of white1 working as many squares as you require1 and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross stitch1 which you must fill up with ,irish stitch1 working across the canvas4 ,you can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross stitch2 and to complete the pattern1 you must work a single stitch across each square1 in ,irish stitch4 ,,dice ,,pattern4--,this is formed by working rows of eight stitches1 in any color you please4 ,you must here have four shades1 and work two stitches in each shade4 ,commence a stitch1 over ten threads1 and drop one each time1 until you have taken eight stitches2 the intermediate spaces are for the ground1 which must contrast with the pattern2 and the introduction of a little gold or silver thread1 would be an improvement4 ,illustration ,,double ,,diamond1 ,,in ,,long ,,stitch4--,this pattern1 when it is worked in two colors strongly contrasted1 and the diamonds composed of beads1 is exceedingly beautiful4 ,the shades of scarlet and blue1 on a white or black ground1 produce the most agreeable effect4 ,illustration ,,german ,,pattern4--,there is a ,gothic grandeur and sobriety about this pattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect4 ,it is worked in ,irish stitch1 six threads straight down the second row1 falling about four stitches below the first2 the third1 the same below the second2 the fourth and fifth the same number below the third2 the next three the same2 and then six in the same proportion4 ,you then increase1 and so render the arch uniform4 ,the pattern then looks like the head of a ,gothic column reversed2 and the centre should be so disposed as to produce the best effect3 those for the first and last row must be of the same tint2 and the same rule applies to all the rest4 ,a lady can1 of course1 choose her own colors2 but care must be had to blend the alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony4 ,illustration ,,irish ,,diamond4--,this is beautiful1 and is very easy of execution4 ,commence with two threads1 and increase to fourteen1 working across the canvas1 and increasing one thread each way2 then decrease to two in the same manner2 and so proceed1 until the row is completed4 ,begin the next row two threads down the canvas1 and place a gold or steel bead in the centre of each diamond4 ,finish with a bordering of gold twist1 or mother of pearl4 ,illustration ,,lace4--,this is a new invention1 and is somewhat difficult of execution4 ,the recognized material is a black ,chantilly silk4 ,it is mostly worked from ,berlin patterns1 and may be done either in cross stitch1 or in straight stitch pattern3 the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool4 ,you may imitate a pearl border1 by taking two threads directly behind the border4 ,it is used for sofa pillows1 c41 to which it forms a very pretty termination indeed4 ,,heart ,,pattern4--,this pattern looks well4 ,pass the wool over ten threads in the centre1 then make four additional stitches of ten threads1 dropping one each time from the top1 and taking one up at the bottom2 then take the sixth stitch1 dropping a thread at the top as before1 but keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch2 your seventh stitch must be in six threads1 decreasing two both at the top and bottom2 and your last will be on two threads1 worked in the same manner3 then proceed to form the other half of the pattern4 ,the hearts may be worked in various shades of the same color1 and the space between them is to filled up with a diamond1 or with an ornament in gold twist1 or pearl4 ,illustration ,,princess ,,royal4--,work this in rows of stitches over four and two threads alternately1 leaving one thread between each stitch3 begin the next row two threads down1 with a stitch over two threads1 and proceed as before4 ,work in two strongly contrasted shades1 and fill in the vacancies with gold or pearl beads4 ,,roman ,,pattern4--,the material to be used1 in working the pattern1 is purse twist2 and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch4 ,the pattern is to be worked in three shades1 of the same color2 the centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade1 then the next1 and lastly the darkest to form a broad outline4 ,this kind of work is done quickly1 and presents a rich appearance4 ,illustration ,,russian ,,pattern4--,this is worked in rows across the canvas1 in stitches of irregular lengths1 and has a pleasing effect4 ,pass the first stitch over sixteen threads1 the second over twelve1 the third over sixteen1 and so proceed to the seventh row1 which is the centre4 ,pass the stitch over eighteen threads1 and proceed as before for six rows2 leave a space of four threads1 and commence as at first4 ,form the second row in the same manner1 leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each row3 the rows may be worked in any number of shades1 taking care to preserve uniformity1 and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond1 worked in the same manner1 but reduced in size1 and in one color2 or it may be worked in gold thread1 which would greatly relieve the monotonous appearance of the pattern4 ,it will be best to begin and finish each row with a half diamond4 ,illustration ,,victoria ,,pattern4--,pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over six threads1 the next over five1 and so proceed to the corner1 which will be on one thread2 the other side must be done in a different shade1 but the same color1 and the shades of each must be turned alternately the opposite way4 ,the corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored silk1 if not of gold thread3 the top of one square will be the bottom of another1 and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or dark wool4 ,the squares must be filled in with long stitch1 working from corner to corner1 across the canvas4 ,,wave ,,pattern4--,these are extremely beautiful1 when worked in four or five shades4 ,they are done in ,irish stitch1 and the rows must be worked close together1 the wool is passed over six threads1 and the rows dropped a few threads below each other1 so as to form a wave4 ,the pattern may be varied almost infinitely2 the following forms a beautiful specimen3 work six rows of any length you choose1 dropping one stitch at the top and adding one to the bottom of each row2 then proceed upwards1 for six rows1 and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave1 the seventh row forming the centre2 then work nine rows1 of which the first1 third1 fifth seventh1 and ninth1 must be level with the second row of the pointed wave2 and the second1 fourth1 sixth1 and eight1 must be on a level with the first and last rows1 while the first1 third1 fifth1 seventh1 and ninth1 must drop two stitches1 so as to produce an irregular edge2 then work a pointed wave1 as before1 and the pattern is complete4 ,illustration ,,windsor ,,pattern4--,in working this pattern1 you must count eight threads down the canvas1 and then increase one each way1 until you have twelve1 so as to form a diamond of six sides4 ,the second row must be begun with twelve threads1 so as to join the longest stitch in the former row4 ,when each row is finished1 the intersectional diamonds must be filled in2 which may be done either in silk or gold thread1 and has an extremely neat appearance4 ,,suggestions ,,as ,,to ,,patterns4 ,for bottle-stand1 or any small piece of work1 star patterns are very beautiful4 ,the materials proper for working them1 are silk and wool1 with gold or any other kind of beads1 and gold thread or twist4 ,for foundations1 you may use either velvet or silk canvas4 ,small sprigs are pretty1 for work that is not too large2 chenille is proper for the flowers1 and the stalks and leaves look best in silk2 a few gold beads add to the effect4 ,for large pieces of work1 medallion patterns are much used1 and produce a good impression on the eye2 the outline is to be traced in brilliant silk1 and for the centre employ two shades of the same color1 working half in each shade2 the medallion should be placed upon a white field1 and the whole grounded in a dark color1 which harmonizes well with the design of the pattern4 ,bags may be worked in a variety of ways1 to suit taste and convenience4 ,the border is often made to resemble black lace1 and when properly executed1 looks extremely well4 ,the parts filled up1 should be worked in black floss or black wool4 ,leaves may be worked with gold twist1 or beads may be employed4 ,the grounding should be in fine twisted silk3 any color may be used4 ,in other cases1 white wool1 white silk1 silver and glass beads1 and several other materials are in requisition2 so that here is ample scope for classification and arrangement4 ,a mourning bag looks well done to imitate lace1 worked in black floss silk1 and ornamented with black glass and silver beads1 disposed in a tasteful and ornamental style4 ,sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares2 in such a case1 two squares should be worked in feather stitch1 and the others in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast3 the border should be a simple1 but elegant lace pattern4 ,for braces and bracelets1 any small border pattern may be adopted4 ,they should be worked in two colors1 highly contrasted1 for bracelets3 gold twist round the edge is a great addition4 ,these suggestions in reference to patterns1 might have been greatly extended2 but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of her own mind1 and to think for herself4 ,to one1 who is desirous to excel1 we have said enough2 a little thought will enable her to apply the general principles1 here laid down1 to any particular case2 and1 without the employment of the thinking faculty1 the most minute instructions1 in this or any other art1 would fail in producing their intended effects4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,instructions ,,in ,,embroidery4 ,,embroidery ,,with ,,silk4--,the materials used as foundations1 are various1 embracing silk1 satin1 cloth1 and velvet2 and the silk employed in working is purse silk1 deckers1 half twist1 and floss2 but floss is most in request4 ,embroidery should always be worked in a frame1 as it cannot be done well on the hand1 except in very small pieces4 ,the same careful attention to shades1 before recommended1 is necessary here2 for small flowers two or three shades are sufficient2 but in roses and others1 that are large1 five shades are in general required2 the darker shades should be worked into the centre of the flower1 7and it is often advisable to work them in ,french knots17#gi-99 and thence proceed with the lighter1 until you come to the lightest1 which forms the outline4 ,the pattern must be correctly drawn upon the material1 and in working leaves you must begin with the points1 working in the lighter shades first1 and veining with a shade more dark3 you may soften the blending1 by working each shade up1 between the stitches of the preceding shade4 ,three1 or at most four shades1 are sufficient for the leaves3 the introduction of more would injure the effect4 ,,chenille ,,embroidery4--,is very beautiful for screens1 c41 but must not be used for any work that is liable to pressure4 ,choose a needle as large as can be conveniently used1 and be careful not to have the lengths of chenille too long1 as it is apt to get rough in the working4 ,for flowers1 it is necessary that the shades should not be too near4 ,the chenille must pass through the material freely1 so as not to draw it4 ,it looks well done in velvet1 with occasional introductions of gold and silver thread4 ,,raised ,,embroidery4--,draw the pattern on the material as before4 ,work the flowers1 c41 to the height required1 in soft cotton1 taking care that the centre is much higher than the edges4 ,a careful study of nature is indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work4 ,pursue the same method with your colors1 as in flat embroidery1 only working them much closer4 ,the most striking effect is produced when the flowers or animals are raised1 and leaves in flat embroidery4 ,much in this1 as in every department of this charming art1 must depend upon the taste and judgment--correct or otherwise--of the fair artist4 ,a servile copyist will never attain to excellence4 ,,embroidery ,,in ,,wool4--,this is proper for any large piece of work4 ,the rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here2 only the work must not be quite so thick on the material2 care must also be taken to bring the wool through on the right side1 as near as possible to where it passes through1 in order that none may appear on the wrong side1 which would occasion much trouble in drawing it1 even when removed from the frame4 ,when finished1 and while in the frame1 it will be proper to damp the back with a little isinglass water1 and press with a warm iron on the wrong side4 ,this kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of various articles of dress1 on which1 when judiciously placed1 it has a pleasing effect4 ,,patterns4--,this is a part of fancy needlework to which too much attention cannot be paid1 but it is one much neglected4 ,we want to see native genius developed1 and we are convinced that many a fair one could increase our stock of patterns1 with new and surprising conceptions1 if she could but be induced to make the trial4 ,to draw patterns for embroidery or braid work1 get a piece of cartridge paper1 and having drawn out the design1 trace it off upon tissue paper1 or which is better1 a tracing paper1 properly prepared2 after which you will find it easy to pierce it through with a piercer1 taking care not to run one hole into another4 ,lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you intend to work1 and dust it with a pounce bag1 so that the powder may go through the holes2 the paper must then be carefully removed1 and if the material be dark1 take a camel's hair pencil1 and paint the marks with a mixture of white lead and gum water2 or if you prefer it1 you can trace the marks left by the pounce1 with a black-lead pencil1 but the other methods are preferable4 ,a little practice and perseverance will enable you to became tolerably proficient in this department1 and confer upon you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of untiring diligence1 which are so essential to the attainment of any object4 ,ever recollect1 that anything worth doing at all1 is worth doing well4 ,,footnotes3 #gi-99 ,this applies especially to the working of dahlias3 begin with the centre knot and work round it as many as are required4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,preparation ,,of ,,frames4 ,this is a subject which must be carefully attended to1 or much unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,frame ,,for ,,cross ,,stitch4--,the canvas must be hemmed neatly round3 then count your threads1 and place the centre one exactly in the middle of the frame4 ,the canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or pegs will permit2 and if too long1 should be wrapped round the poles with tissue paper1 to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms1 as that is essential to the beauty of the work4 ,it must in all cases be rolled under1 or it will occasion much trouble in the working4 ,when placed quite even in the frame1 secure by fine twine passed over the stretchers1 and through the canvas very closely2 both sides must be tightened gradually1 or it will draw to one side1 and the work will be spoiled4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,frame ,,for ,,cloth ,,work4--,stretch your cloth in the frame as tight as possible1 the right side uppermost4 ,the canvas on which you intend to work1 must be of a size to correspond with the pattern1 and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth1 to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible4 ,when the work is finished the canvas must be cut1 and the threads drawn out1 first one and then the other4 ,it is necessary to be especially careful in working1 not to split the threads1 as that would prevent them drawing1 and would spoil the appearance of the work4 ,in all cases1 it is advisable to place the cloth so as that the nap may go downward4 ,in working bouquets of flowers1 this rule is indispensable4 ,the patterns for cloth work should be light and open4 ,it looks well for sofas1 arm chairs1 c41 but is by no means so durable as work done with wool1 entirely on canvas4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,frame ,,for ,,tent ,,stitch4--,prepare the frame1 and brace the canvas as for cross stitch1 only not quite even1 but inclining the contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch4 ,this is necessary1 as tent stitch always twists a little4 ,this method will cause the work1 when taken out of the frame1 to appear tolerably straight4 ,should it after all be crooked1 it should be nailed at the edges to a square board1 and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to become perfectly straight4 ,the back of the work should then be slightly brushed over with isinglass water1 taking care not to let the liquid come through to the right side4 ,a sheet of paper must be placed between the work and the board1 and when nearly dry1 another must be laid upon it1 and the whole ironed with a warm iron1 not too hot1 or the brilliancy of the colors will be destroyed4 ,some persons use flour instead of isinglass1 but it is highly improper1 and should never be resorted to4 ,,instructions ,,for ,,working4 ,,armorial ,,bearings4--,work the arms and crest in silk1 as brilliancy is the thing here principally required4 ,it will be proper that the scroll should be worked in wool4 ,the contrast will have a pleasing effect4 ,,applique4--,this is a very beautiful kind of work4 ,the material may be either silk1 or cloth1 or any other fabric which may be preferred4 ,upon this foundation1 pieces of satin1 velvet1 c41 are to be carefully tacked down2 the pattern1 leaves1 flowers1 c41 must then be drawn1 both on the foundation1 and the materials of which they are to be formed2 after which1 they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner possible4 ,they are then to be braided with their own colors round the edges2 you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves2 work the centre of leaves in a long stitch1 and the kind of silk called purse silk1 and after braiding the centre of flowers--if single--work over them with ,french knots1 made by twining the silk twice round the needle1 and passing it through the material4 ,this kind of work1 as covers for tables chairs1 c41 is very elegant1 and has a good effect4 ,,bead ,,work4--,use the canvas called bolting2 and work two threads each way on the slant1 with china silk1 taking especial care that the beads are all turned the same way1 that the whole may appear uniform4 ,work the pattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones4 ,you must1 in this kind of work1 have as few shades as possible4 ,,braid ,,work4--,trace the pattern in the material1 and proceed with the various shades1 from the outline or lightest1 to the darkest1 till the whole is completed4 ,in this work only two shades are for leaves1 and three for flowers2 make the points as sharp as possible1 and in turning the points1 work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the braid1 and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place4 ,vein the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing as taste may direct2 and in fastening draw the braid through the material4 ,the best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle4 ,in braid work and applique1 only one stitch must be taken at a time1 or else the work will appear puckered4 ,,braces4--,work in silk canvas three inches broad1 in silk or wool1 in any pattern you prefer4 ,,gem1 ,,or ,,set ,,patterns4--,for this kind of work1 ground in black or dark wool1 and work the patterns in silks1 as distinct and bright as possible1 and with the utmost variety of colors4 ,the beauty of these productions of the needle1 depends chiefly upon their brilliant and gem-like appearance4 ,,gobelin4--,if you work in coarse canvas1 adopt the same contrast of shades as you employ in cross stitch2 if the material be fine1 you must shade as in tent stitch4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,waistcoats4--,to ornament the dress of a father1 brother1 or husband1 must at all times be a pleasing employment for domestic affection4 ,for dress waistcoats1 embroider satin1 either in the form of a wreath1 round the edge of the waistcoat1 or in small sprigs2 for morning1 you may work in any pattern you prefer4 ,patterns of the ,caledonian ,clans are now much admired4 ,,landscapes4--,these may be rendered extremely beautiful1 if properly managed4 ,the trees in front should be much lighter than those seen in the back ground1 and great care should be taken to prevent the latter having too blue a cast1 as this renders them unharmonious1 when contrasted with the sky4 ,represent water by shades of a blue grey3 the sky should be a serene blue1 with much closeness1 and mingled with clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab4 ,if mountains are seen in the distance1 they should be of a grey lavender tint1 and some living animal should1 in nearly all cases1 be introduced4 ,the presence of a cow1 sheep1 c41 gives life and animation to the view4 ,,mosaic ,,work4--,if you work with wool1 cut it into short lengths1 and untwist it4 ,no wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind of work4 ,if you work with silk1 the finest floss is preferable to any other3 split silk would be found extremely inconvenient1 and the work would not look so well4 ,care must be taken that the shades are very distinct1 or they will appear jumbled and unsightly4 ,it will also be necessary to fasten off at every shade1 and not to pass from one flower to another1 as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the right side1 and thus impair the beauty of the performance4 ,in working a landscape1 some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky1 to avoid the trouble of working one4 ,as a compliance with such advice would tend to foster habits of idleness1 and thus weaken the sense of moral propriety which should in all we do be ever present with us1 as well as destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from every species of deception1 we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art will reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits4 ,,patterns ,,on ,,canvas4--,employ for canvas four or five shades1 beginning with the darkest1 and softening gradually into a lighter tint1 till you come to the lightest1 following the distinction of contrast exhibited by the ,berlin patterns4 ,if you wish to introduce silk into any part1 it will be best to work it in last4 ,be careful to avoid taking odd threads1 if you work the pattern in cross stitch4 ,,perforated ,,card4--,the needle must not be too large1 or the holes will be liable to get broken4 ,the smaller ones must be worked in silk3 the larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool4 ,sometimes the flowers are worked in ,chenille1 and the leaves in silk2 this gives to card cases1 c41 a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance4 ,,rug ,,bordering4--,use a wooden mesh1 grooved1 an inch and a quarter in width2 pass the material over the mesh1 and work in cross stitch3 the material to be used1 is what is called slacks1 7a kind of worsted17 which must be six or eight times doubled4 ,you must leave three threads between each row1 and not more than eight rows are required to complete the border4 ,,wire ,,work4--,for this work choose shades of a light in preference to a dark color1 and work with silk4 ,if you employ both silk and wool1 silk must be used for the lighter shades1 or the beauty of the work will be impaired4 ,sponge the whole before commencing work4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,application ,,of ,,fancy ,,needlework ,,to ,,useful ,,purposes4 ,,lace4--,this imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags1 sofa pillows1 c42 and also for ladies' work bags1 to which it is both ornamental and becoming4 ,,princess ,,royal4--,this pattern is especially proper for bags or small stands4 ,,point ,,stitch1 is well adapted for working covers for hassocks1 as well as for bags of a considerable size4 ,,basket ,,stitch4--,this kind of work is very elegant for flower1 fruit1 or work baskets2 or any other of an ornamental character4 ,,german ,,pattern1 is well adapted for slippers1 as1 when worked1 it is found to be very durable1 and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this application4 ,,embroidery1 is of almost universal application3 that with chenille is much used in the ornamental parts of dress1 and is productive of a most pleasing effect4 ,embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same purpose4 ,,rug ,,borderings4--,these may be considered as articles of domestic economy2 and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor1 or the side-board1 adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter1 or a sister1 this kind of work is at all times1 when properly executed1 superior1 considered merely as work1 far superior to any similar productions emanating from the loom4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,waistcoats ,,and ,,braces4--,by being able to perform this kind of work1 it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an elegant present to a father1 husband1 or brother1 and thus to increase the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle4 ,this reason is amply sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this department of fancy needlework4 ,,wire ,,work4--,this is a lovely material for baskets1 and various kinds of ornamental fabrications4 ,,working ,,figures4--,this delightful application of the needle may be rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes4 ,by it the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted3 the scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas1 or the portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us1 as when blooming in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness4 ,let this portion of the art be especially and assiduously cultivated4 ,,armorial ,,bearings4--,these are proper for screens1 and may be made of a high moral utility1 by exciting in the minds of the young1 an ardent desire to become acquainted with the events of history1 and with the actions and principles of former times4 ,,mosaic ,,work1 ,,and ,,perforated ,,card4--,these are used for note books1 ornamental card cases1 hand screens1 book marks and a variety of other useful purposes4 ,,braid ,,work4--,the application of this kind of work is well known1 and is so general1 that no particular cases need be pointed out4 ,,applique4--,this is very elegant1 as employed for table covers1 sofas1 chairs1 c42 indeed it always looks pretty1 and to whatever it is applied it has a pleasing effect4 ,,star ,,patterns1 are proper for sofa cushions1 bottle stands1 or any piece of work that is small4 ,,medallion ,,pattern4--,where the work is coarse1 or large1 these may be introduced with good effect2 but especial attention must be paid to a proper combination of colors and shades4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,fancy ,,needlework4 ,,special ,,instructions4 ,,instructions ,,in ,,grounding4--,care must be taken in grounding to make the effect of contrast very conspicuous4 ,thus1 if you ground in dark colors1 your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint2 for those in which dark shades predominate1 a light ground is indispensible4 ,the canvas for white grounding should be white2 and if for dark grounding1 a striped fabric is employed4 ,the stripes will sometimes appear through the wool4 ,to prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the surface with a little ,indian ink water previous to commencing working1 but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the edges of the work1 and it must be quite dry before you commence grounding4 ,a camel's hair brush is best for this purpose4 ,in working in cross stitch1 it is best to do so on the slant1 working from right to left across the canvas1 and then back again4 ,this is preferable to crossing each stitch as you proceed1 and gives an improved appearance to the work4 ,if you work in tent stitch1 work straight1 or your performance will be uneven when taken out of the frame4 ,in all cases begin to go round from the centre1 and work outwards1 taking care to fasten off as you finish with each needleful1 which should not be too long1 as the wool is liable to get rough and soiled4 ,it is also necessary to have them irregular as to length1 to prevent the fastenings coming together which they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to4 ,for working in tent stitch with single wool1 the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an inch2 for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch2 for the former1 you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool2 in the latter case a skein will cover two inches4 ,following this calculation1 you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for any piece of work2 and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the same time1 otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades4 ,an attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in the grounding department of the art4 ,,working ,,figures4--,this is at once one of the most difficult1 and at the same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy needlework will have to perform2 they generally produce the best effect when worked in wool and silk1 with a judicious mixture of gold and silver beads4 ,the hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch2 and the face1 neck1 and hands1 in tent stitch2 working four of the latter for one of the former4 ,to obtain the proper tints for the face1 c41 is no easy task2 but it must be carefully attended to1 as almost the whole beauty of the work depends upon it4 ,the shades in these parts of the figure must be extremely close2 indeed upon shading of the features the perfection of the performance mainly depends4 ,the drapery also demands considerable care3 the shades must be very distinct1 particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress2 and the back ground should be subdued as much as possible1 that a proper prominence may be given to the figure3 this object will be aided considerably by working in the lighter shades in silk3 any representation of water or of painted glass1 should be worked in the same material4 ,the intention of the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an approximation to oil painting as possible4 ,,raised ,,work4--,this should be done with ,german wool1 as it more nearly resembles velvet4 ,for working flowers1 you must have two meshes1 one-seventh of an inch in width1 and the pattern must be worked in gobelin stitch4 ,be careful not to take one mesh out1 until you have completed the next row4 ,you work across the flowers2 and in order to save an unnecessary waste of time1 as well as to facilitate your work1 it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades1 taking care not to get the various shades mixed together4 ,this is more needful1 as you cannot1 as in cross stitch1 finish one shade before commencing another4 ,when the pattern is worked1 cut straight across each row1 with a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose1 and shear the flower into its proper form4 ,for working animals or birds1 you must have three meshes2 the first1 one quarter2 and the third1 one seventh of an inch3 the second must be a medium between these two4 ,you will require the largest for the breast1 and the upper parts of the wings4 ,cross stitch may be employed in working the beak1 or feet1 and is indeed preferable4 ,you may work leaves1 either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch1 as taste or fancy may direct4 ,you may work either from a drawing on canvas1 or from ,berlin pattern2 but the latter is decidedly to be preferred4 ,,working ,,berlin ,,patterns4--,for these patterns1 it will be necessary to work in canvas1 of eighteen or ten threads to the inch1 according as you may desire the work to be a larger1 or of the same size as the pattern3 and1 it must be borne in mind1 that all the patterns are drawn for tent stitch1 so that if you work in cross stitch1 and wish to have it the same size as the pattern1 you must count twenty stitches on the canvas1 for ten on the paper4 ,the choice of colors1 for these patterns1 is a matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade1 if sudden and abrupt1 will entirely destroy the beauty of the design4 ,a natural succession of tints1 softly blending into each other1 can1 alone produce the desired effect4 ,in working flowers1 five or six shades will be required3 in a rose1 or other large flower1 six shades are almost indispensible2 of these1 the darkest should form the perfect centre1 then the next 7not prominently1 though perceptibly7 differing from it1 and the next four to the lightest tint2 the whole1 to be so managed1 as to give to the flower that fulness1 and distinctness1 which its position in the design demands4 ,for small flowers1 so many shades are rarely necessary4 ,the two darkest shades should be strong1 the others soft2 this secures sufficiency of contrast1 without impairing that harmony of tints1 which is so indispensible4 ,you must recollect1 that for work done in tent stitch1 a greater contrast of shade is required1 than for that done in cross stitch4 ,this remark should never be lost sight of4 ,a proper attention to the shading of leaves1 is indispensible2 the kinds of green required1 for this purpose1 are bright grass green1 for a rose2 ,saxon green1 for lilies1 convolvolus1 peonies1 c42 ,french green1 for iris1 marigold1 narcissus1 c42 and for poppies1 tulips1 c42 a willow green1 which has a rather bluer tint than ,french green is generally2 and for leaves which stand up above the flowers1 or near them1 it is proper to work the tips in a very light green1 as reflecting the rays of light3 the next shade should be four times darker1 or three at the least2 the next two2 then the fourth shade1 two darker than the third2 and the fifth1 two darker than the fourth3 take care that the veins of leaves be distinctly marked1 and those which are in the shade should be darker than those upon which the light falls2 and if of a color having a bluish tint1 a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect4 ,the stalks of roses1 c41 should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green4 ,white flowers are often spoilt1 by being worked of too dark a shade2 if you do not work with silk1 you may obtain two distinct shades of white1 by using ,moravian cotton and white wool2 these combined with three shades of light stone color--the second two shades darker than the first1 and the third darker than the second1 in the same proportions--will produce a beautiful white flower1 which if properly shaded1 by leaves of the proper tints1 will have a most beautiful appearance4 ,the lighter parts of all flowers1 in ,berlin patterns1 may be worked in silk2 and in many cases that is a decided improvement2 but it should never be introduced in the leaves2 here it would be out of place4 ,we again repeat1 beware of servile copying3 try to engage your own judgment in this work1 and1 remember1 that to become used to think and to discriminate1 is one of the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain4 ,we have now1 we trust1 placed before the young student of fancy needlework1 such plain directions1 in all things essential to the art1 as cannot fail1 if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed upon them1 to make her a proficient in this delightful employment4 ,with one or two additional remarks1 we will conclude this portion of our labors4 ,the young votary of the needle must recollect that1 if she allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention from the more serious or useful business of life1 she will act decidedly wrong and had far better never learn it at all4 ,another thing to be especially guarded against1 is1 not to devote too much time to this1 or any other engagement1 at once2 the mind and body are both injured1 to a serious extent1 by dwelling too long on a single object4 ,let it never for a moment be forgotten1 relaxation and exercise are indispensible1 if you wish to enjoy good health1 or an even and pleasant temper4 ,again1 take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your pursuit1 as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship1 benevolence1 or duty4 ,the young lady who can forget her moral and domestic duties1 in the fascinations of the embroidery frame1 gives but little promise of excellence1 in the more advanced stages of life4 ,let neatness1 and order1 characterize all your arrangements4 ,cut your silks and wools into proper lengths1 and fold them in paper1 writing the color on each1 and numbering them according to their shades1 #a1 #b1 #c1 c41 beginning with the darkest4 ,dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or inconvenience1 and use every possible care to prevent your work from being spoiled in the performance4 ,we advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and design2 and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and moral development of the heart1 and of the character4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,knitting4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches4 ,before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter1 we wish to make a few remarks2 which1 we trust1 will be acceptable to our fair readers4 ,the art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the ,spanish2 and would doubtless form1 in connection with needlework1 an agreeable relaxation1 amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements which made up1 for the most part1 the lives of the ancient female nobility of that peninsula4 ,the ,scotch also lay claim to the invention1 but we think upon no sufficient authority4 ,knitted silk-hose were first worn in ,england by ,henry ,,viii41 and we are told that a present of a pair of long knitted silk stockings1 of ,spanish manufacture1 was presented to the young prince 7,edward ,,vi471 by ,sir ,thomas ,gresham1 and was graciously received1 as a gift of some importance4 ,clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose had been previously worn3 and1 though we are told by ,howel1 that ,queen ,elizabeth was presented with a pair of black knitted silk stockings1 by ,mistress ,montague1 her silk-woman1 yet her maids of honor were not allowed to wear an article of dress1 which her royal pride deemed only suited to regal magnificence4 ,we believe the first pair of knitted stockings1 ever made in ,england1 were the production of one ,william ,rider1 an apprentice1 residing on ,london ,bridge2 who1 having accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings1 while detained on some business1 at the house of one of the ,italian merchants1 made a pair of a similar kind1 which he presented to the ,earl of ,pembroke1 #aefd4 ,the stocking-frame was the invention of ,mr4 ,w4 ,lee1 ,m4 ,a41 who had been expelled from ,cambridge1 for marrying1 in contravention to the statutes of the university4 ,himself and his wife1 it seems1 were reduced to the necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter1 in the art of knitting1 for their subsistence2 and as necessity is the parent of invention1 ,mr4 ,lee1 by carefully watching the motion of the needles1 was enabled1 in #aehi1 to invent the stocking-frame2 which has been the source of much advantage to others1 though there is reason to believe the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor4 ,since its first introduction1 knitting has been applied to a vast variety of purposes1 and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief4 ,it has furnished to the blind1 the indigent1 and almost destitute ,irish cottage girl1 the means1 pleasure and profit at the same time4 ,many ladies1 including some in the rank of royalty1 have employed their hours of leisure in the fabrication of articles1 the produce of which have gone to the funds of charity1 and have tendered to the alleviation of at least some of ,the numerous ills that flesh is heir to2 and amongst those1 the labors of the ,hon4 ,mrs4 ,wingfield1 upon the estates of ,lord de ,vesci1 in ,ireland1 ought not to be forgotten4 ,,to ,,cast ,,on ,,the ,,loops ,,or ,,stitches4--,take the material in the right hand1 and twist it round the little finger1 bring it under the next two1 and pass it over the fore finger4 ,then take the end in the left hand1 7holding the needle in the right17 wrap it round the little finger1 and thence bring it over the thumb1 and round the two fore fingers4 ,by this process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop3 she must then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material1 and above that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle1 which must be brought down through the loop1 and the thread which is in the left hand1 being drawn tight1 completes the operation4 ,this process must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on4 ,,knitting ,,stitch4--,the needle must be put through the cast-on stitch1 and the material turned over it1 which is to be taken up1 and the under loop1 or stitch1 is to be let off4 ,this is called plain stitch1 and is to be continued until one round is completed4 ,,pearl ,,stitch4--,called also seam1 ribbed1 and turn stitch1 is formed by knitting with the material before the needle2 and instead of bringing the needle over the upper thread1 it is brought under it4 ,,to ,,rib1 is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately4 ,three plain1 and three pearled1 is generally the rule4 ,,to ,,cast ,,over4--,this means bringing the material round the needle1 forward4 ,,narrowing4--,this is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two together1 so as to form only one loop4 ,,raising4--,this is to increase the number of stitches1 and is effected by knitting one stitch as usual1 and then omitting to slip out the left hand needle1 and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch1 putting the needle under the stitch4 ,care must be taken to put the thread back when the additional stitch is finished4 ,,to ,,seam4--,knit a pearl stitch every alternate row4 ,a ,,row1 means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other2 and a ,,round1 the whole of the stitches on two1 three1 or more needles4 ,,note1 in casting on a stocking1 there must always be an odd stitch cast on for the seam4 ,,to ,,bring ,,the ,,thread ,,forward1 means to pass it between the needles toward the person of the operator4 ,a ,,loop ,,stitch1 is made by passing the thread before the needle4 ,in knitting the succeeding loop1 it will take its proper place4 ,a ,,slip ,,stitch1 is made by passing it from one needle to another without knitting it4 ,,to ,,fasten ,,on4--,this term refers to fastening the end of the material1 when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work4 ,the best way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other1 and knit a few stitches with both4 ,,to ,,cast ,,off4--,this is done by knitting two stitches1 passing the first over the second1 and so proceeding to the last stitch1 which is to be made secure by passing thread through it4 ,,welts1 are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches1 done at the top of stockings1 and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling up4 ,sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches1 or in a variety of neat and fanciful patterns4 ,scarcely any kind of work is susceptible of so much variety1 or can be applied to so many ornamental fabrics or uses in domestic economy4 ,the fair votary of this art must be careful neither to knit too tight or too loose4 ,a medium1 which will soon be acquired by care and practice1 is the best1 and shows the various kinds of work to the best advantage4 ,the young lady should take care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust1 and to handle the materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible4 ,having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful art1 we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful4 ,,fancy ,,stitches ,,in ,,knitting4 ,,bee',s ,,stitch4--,in knitting a purse in this stitch1 you must cast the loops on three needles1 having twenty on each4 ,the two first rows in plain knitting4 ,the third is thus worked4 ,having brought the silk in front1 a stitch is to be slipped1 and you knit the next1 pulling the one you slipped over it2 you knit the next1 and the succeeding one is pearled2 proceed in this manner for one round4 ,the next round you knit plain2 the next is to be executed like the third4 ,proceed thus in alternate rounds1 and you can introduce two colors1 highly contrasted1 knitting six or eight rounds of each4 ,,berlin ,,wire ,,stitch4--,the stitches cast on must be an even number4 ,knit three1 four1 or five plain rows4 ,then begin the work by taking off the first stitch1 knit one stitch1 knit off two stitches together1 and make a stitch2 repeat this process to the end of the row2 the next row is to be knitted plain1 and so on alternately4 ,this work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool1 if it be intended for shawls1 c41 or with fine needles and thread1 in which case it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks1 capes1 collars1 and other articles of dress4 ,if it is intended for insertion work1 the number of stitches cast on are eight1 and one pattern is formed by each four stitches4 ,,common ,,plait4--,this is employed for muffatees1 coverlets1 and various other articles4 ,you cast on the stitches in threes3 the number is unlimited4 ,knit one row plain1 then proceed as follows4 ,row first1 three plain stitches and three pearled4 ,second row the same1 taking care to begin where the last is finished1 that is1 if you ended with plain stitches1 you begin with the pearled4 ,proceed in the same way with the third row1 and you will have a succession of squares1 of inside and outside knitting1 alternately4 ,the fourth row is to be begun with the same kind of stitches as completed the first row2 continue as before1 and the work will be in squares1 like those of a chess board4 ,this stitch is extremely pretty4 ,,chain ,,stitch4--,the number of loops to be cast on is thirteen4 ,knit the first two rows plain1 and in beginning the third1 knit three plain stitches1 and bring the material in front1 then pearl seven stitches2 the material is then to be turned back1 and you knit the other three stitches plain4 ,the next row is plain knitting1 and then you proceed as in the third row1 and so on alternately1 until you have completed sixteen rows4 ,you then knit three stitches plain1 and take off the four succeeding ones upon a spare pin4 ,the next three stitches from behind the pin1 are to be knitted so as to miss it completely1 and the material is to be drawn so tight1 as that the pins may be connected together as closely as possible4 ,this done you knit the four stitches of the third pin1 which completes the twist4 ,the remaining three stitches are then to be knitted1 and a fresh link begun1 by knitting three stitches1 pearling seven1 knitting three1 and so proceeding for sixteen rows1 when another twist is to be made4 ,,crow',s-,,foot ,,stitch4--,this stitch may be worked in two ways4 ,if it be for a shawl1 begin at the corner1 and raise at the beginning and end of each row4 ,in the other method1 you cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three1 and you must cast on one additional for the commencement4 ,you knit the first row plain and then proceed according to the following directions3 ,first1 knit a stitch4 ,second1 make a stitch4 ,third1 slip the next4 ,fourth1 knit two stitches together4 ,fifth1 put the stitch you slipped over the two last knitted2 this is to be repeated1 with the exception of the first knitted stitch1 to the end of the row4 ,the next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches4 ,this stitch is neat and elegant4 ,,double ,,knitting4--,of this stitch there are three kinds1 now in general use4 ,in executing them proceed as follows4 ,having cast on any even number of stitches1 knit a few rows in plain knitting2 then1 for the double stitch1 begin the row by knitting a stitch1 and pass the material in front1 between the knitting pins4 ,then a stitch is to be taken off1 being careful to put the needle inside the loop1 and to pass the material back again4 ,you then knit another stitch1 and so proceed to the end of the row4 ,for the second kind of double knitting1 you cast on an even number of stitches1 as before1 and the first stitch is knitted plain2 the material being put twice over the pin4 ,then1 as in the first kind1 pass the material between the needles2 a stitch is to be slipped1 and the material passed again behind4 ,this process is repeated in every stitch to the end of the row4 ,in the next row1 you reverse the work1 knitting the stitches that were before slipped1 and slipping the knitted ones4 ,the third kind is very simple1 and can be done quicker than the others4 ,it is worked on the wrong side1 and when completed must be turned inside out2 hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends4 ,the number of stitches must be even1 as in the previous methods4 ,no plain row is needed2 but you commence by putting the material in front of the pins1 and being careful to keep it constantly in that position4 ,turn the first stitch1 take off the second1 and so on alternately1 till the row is finished4 ,,dutch ,,common ,,knitting4--,this is the common knitting stitch1 performed in a more expeditious manner than that in general practised4 ,the needle filled with stitches1 is held in the left hand1 and the material also1 which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice4 ,it passes to the needles over the fore finger4 ,to form the loop on the needle held in the right hand1 it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from behind1 and knit off by putting the material round the needle4 ,,embossed ,,diamond4--,you cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by seven4 ,the first row is plain3 for the second1 pearl one stitch1 knit five1 and pearl two2 thus proceed1 alternately1 to complete the row3 for the third1 knit two1 pearl three1 and knit four1 and so proceed4 ,the fourth row you pearl three1 knit one1 and pearl six1 alternately4 ,the fifth row is plain knitting4 ,the next row you pearl two1 knit two1 pearl five1 and so on to the end4 ,next knit two1 pearl four and knit three1 alternately4 ,next knit six1 and pearl one1 successively4 ,reverse the next1 pearling six1 and knitting one4 ,then in the succeeding row1 knit five and pearl three1 and knit four in succession4 ,next knit three1 pearl two1 and knit five1 alternately4 ,the succeeding row is plain4 ,,embossed ,,hexagon ,,stitch4--,you can work with any number of stitches you choose1 which can be divided by six4 ,the first row is plain1 the next pearled throughout2 the third row is plain4 ,for the first knit four stitches1 and slip two at the end2 then pearl a row1 taking care to slip the stitches that were slipped before4 ,next knit a row slipping the two stitches as before4 ,the next row is pearled still slipping the two stitches4 ,the succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the others1 and the two stitches are still to be slipped4 ,the next row is pearled1 and you take up all the stitches2 then a row is to be knitted plain1 and a row pearled1 which completes the pattern4 ,in beginning the next pattern1 you pearl a row1 slipping the fifth and sixth stitches1 so that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked pattern2 you then proceed as before4 ,,elastic ,,rib4--,this as its name implies1 is the proper stitch for garters1 or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet firmly4 ,you are to set on any number of loops you please1 and knit one row plain2 the next is pearled1 the two next are plain2 then one pearled1 and so on alternately to the end4 ,,fantail ,,stitch4--,the application of this stitch is in the preparation of mitts1 gloves1 c41 and sometimes it is used for purses1 in which it looks extremely pretty4 ,the material generally employed is cotton1 and you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require4 ,a loop is made1 by throwing the cotton over the pin2 you then knit a loop1 and make and knit alternately2 each of the two last are knitted plain1 and you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row1 at the second and third loops1 until you have reduced it to the number originally cast on4 ,the usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen4 ,,french ,,stitch4--,you set on the loops in fours1 and must have two over4 ,the first stitch is pearled1 then turn the thread back1 and knit two stitches together4 ,form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front1 and knit a stitch2 the thread is again to be brought in front1 and the last stitch pearled1 which completes the pattern4 ,the next row is begun in a similar manner1 the thread is turned back1 two stitches are knitted together at the end1 the thread is turned1 and you knit the last stitch4 ,,german ,,knitting4--,you cast on twenty-one stitches1 and proceed as follows4 ,first row1 the material is to be passed forward1 one stitch slipped1 then knit one1 and pass the slipped one over2 three stitches are then to be knitted1 and two taken as one2 again pass the material forward1 and knit one stitch4 ,second row1 the same1 except that when in the first you knitted three stitches1 knit one2 and when one1 you knit three4 ,for the third row1 you pass the material as before1 and slip one stitch1 then two are taken as one1 and the slipped one is passed over again2 repeat this1 except that in taking two stitches together1 you knit one1 and pass the slipped one over2 finish by knitting two stitches4 ,,honeycomb ,,stitch4--,this is also often used for shawls4 ,it is knitted as follows4 ,you knit the first stitch1 and pass the other to make a loop over the needle4 ,two stitches are then knitted together1 and you thus continue making the loops1 and knitting two stitches together1 until you have completed the row4 ,you knit every second row thus2 the alternate ones plain4 ,,herring-,,bone ,,bag ,,stitch4--,you cast on the stitches by fours1 and the material used is silk4 ,knit two plain stitches1 and then make a large one1 by turning the silk twice over the needle2 after which1 knit two stitches together1 and repeat this1 until you have completed the work4 ,,imitation ,,net-,,work ,,stitch4--,you set on any number of stitches you please1 but you must have no odd ones4 ,the first row is plain knitting4 ,the next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin1 and twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind1 and putting it behind again4 ,you are then to knit two loops together1 and the pin must be put first into the one nearest to you1 and the wool is to be twisted round the pin as before4 ,then again1 knit two together1 and so on to the end4 ,each row is done in the same manner4 ,,knit ,,herring-,,bone ,,stitch4--,any number of stitches you please may be cast on1 observing to have three for each pattern1 and one over at each end4 ,the first row must be plain3 then1 in beginning the second1 take off the first stitch1 and knit two together in pearl stitch4 ,next make one1 by passing the material before1 and knitting one1 pearl two stitches together1 and make and knit a stitch as before4 ,every row is the same4 ,,lace ,,wave ,,stitch4--,the number of stitches must be even4 ,the first stitch is to be slipped2 then knit one1 and make one1 by casting the material over the pin4 ,narrow1 by knitting two stitches together1 and again knit a stitch2 then make one1 and again narrow2 and so on till you complete the row4 ,the next row is done plain4 ,the third row is as follows3 two stitches knitted plain2 make one stitch1 and narrow two in one2 then knit one stitch2 make and narrow1 as before to the end2 then knit a row plain4 ,for the fifth row1 knit three stitches plain1 and thus proceed as in the third row4 ,the sixth row is done plain2 and the seventh one commences by knitting four stitches plain1 and then proceeding as before4 ,the eighth row is plain2 and the ninth is begun by knitting five plain stitches1 and proceed as above2 then knit two rows plain1 and the pattern is complete4 ,this can be continued to any length required4 ,,moss ,,stitch4--,this is easily done4 ,cast on any even number of loops1 and for the first row1 the first loop is slipped1 the material brought in front2 the stitch is pearled1 and repeat so to the end4 ,the next row is so worked1 that the stitches knit in the proceeding row1 must be pearled in this4 ,,open ,,hem4--,the number of stitches is unlimited1 but they must be capable of being divided by four4 ,at the beginning of each row you slip the first stitch1 and knit the second4 ,then make a stitch by putting the cotton over the pin2 knit two loops together2 knit one stitch1 make a stitch1 and so proceed4 ,you must have very fine pins and sewing cotton4 ,,open ,,cross ,,stitch4--,this is done in the following manner4 ,two colors are to be employed1 and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch4 ,in working the second row of each1 the following is the order of procedure3 first1 knit a stitch3 second1 make a stitch2 third1 slip one2 fourth1 two are to be knitted together1 and the one slipped is to be drawn over the knitted ones2 thus you proceed to the end of the row4 ,the two next are to be commenced with the other color2 and thus you work two rows with each color1 successively4 ,the fresh color is always to cross from beneath the last one1 or otherwise a hole would be left in the work4 ,in the making of shawls1 this stitch is often adopted1 and it looks well1 but1 of course1 requires to be bordered with some other pattern4 ,,ornamental ,,ladder ,,stitch4--,the stitches are to be set on in elevens4 ,commence by knitting two stitches plain1 then knit two together1 and repeat the same1 drawing the first loop over the second2 proceed thus to the end4 ,commence the second row by pearling two stitches2 pass the material over the pin twice2 again pearl two stitches1 and so proceed to the end4 ,in the next row1 knit two2 pass the material round the pin twice1 knit two1 and so continue4 ,thus you proceed with alternate rows of knitted and pearled stitches1 being careful to slip the stitches made by throwing the material round the pin1 without knitting them4 ,,pine ,,apple ,,stitch4--,for a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three needles1 and proceed thus3 ,first row1 knit one plain1 raise one by throwing the silk over the pin1 knit one plain1 then raise1 knit two plain1 you knit the next two together1 drawing the last loop over the first2 you will then have six loops4 ,in the second row1 knit the first raised loop1 then raise1 knit the next one plain1 then raise1 knit plain till you come to the next raising1 and omit knitting the two together as in the first row4 ,third row1 you knit plain to the raising1 and then proceed as in the first row4 ,you knit the fourth as the second2 and so proceed alternately1 until you have twelve rows4 ,then in the stitches you had previously narrowed1 you must raise1 and introduce a bead upon each plain loop1 with a thread1 and again raise4 ,where you had previously raised1 you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk4 ,in this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately1 until you have twelve rows as before4 ,you then reverse1 and again work as in the first part of the pattern4 ,,plain ,,open ,,stitch4--,the stitches set on must be an even number4 ,the two first rows are plain4 ,then commence the third row1 by knitting one stitch2 pass the material in front1 and form a new stitch1 by knitting two together4 ,this is to be repeated1 until you come to the last stitch1 which must be knit4 ,then knit two plain rows and proceed as before4 ,,porcupine ,,stitch4--,this is proper for a purse1 and when properly executed1 is extremely pretty4 ,you cast on1 upon each of three needles1 thirty-six loops1 and knit one plain round4 ,for the next1 you knit four stitches3 and1 having brought the silk forward1 knit one loop3 this will form the middle stitch of the pattern4 ,then1 again bringing the silk forward1 knit fourteen stitches2 after which1 slip one1 and leaving the under part1 knit two together1 and draw the stitches1 last slipped1 over it4 ,then knit four stitches1 as at the commencement1 and so proceed for six rounds1 increasing before and after each middle stitch4 ,you knit till within one of where you decreased4 ,the stitch thus left is to be slipped1 and you then knit two together1 and draw the slipped loop over it4 ,you are then to knit one plain round1 and the next row is also plain1 except the loops which are over the middle stitches1 where you are to insert a bead1 by bringing it through the stitches4 ,you next knit a round plain1 and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of the purse1 or rather in the inside while knitting1 as this purse is done the wrong side out4 ,you are to knit1 until you come within one loop of the bead1 which must be slipped1 and you knit the next two together4 ,you are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as in the proceeding pattern1 which will make that the middle or bead stitch4 ,the material should be done in middle sized purse silk1 on needles1 ,no4 #ah4 ,,rough-,,cast ,,stitch4--,any odd number of stitches may be cast on4 ,each row is begun with a plain stitch1 and the others are plain and pearled alternately4 ,this is very suitable for borders1 as it is firm and looks neat4 ,,wave ,,knitting4--,this is proper for a pin-cushion1 and looks extremely neat4 ,commence by casting on seventy-nine loops4 ,then proceed as follows4 ,first row1 knit four loops plain1 pearl one1 knit nine plain1 and repeat to the end of the row1 finishing with four plain loops4 ,commence the second row with three pearled stitches1 knit three plain1 pearl seven1 repeat as before4 ,third row1 knit two plain1 pearl five1 knit five plain1 repeat4 ,fourth row1 pearl one1 knit seven plain1 pearl three1 repeat4 ,fifth row1 pearl nine1 knit one plain1 pearl nine1 and repeat to the end4 ,this finishes the pattern4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,knitting4 ,,examples ,,in ,,knitting4 ,a ,,biroche4--,the stitch is very simple4 ,you bring the wool forward1 slip one1 and knit two together4 ,this elegant cushion is made up of sixteen narrow rows1 and sixteen broad stripes1 which decrease gradually toward the centre4 ,it may be made in double ,german wool1 or other material1 with ,no4 #ai ivory or wooden pins4 ,cast on ninety stitches1 and knit two turns2 then in gold color three turns1 and again two in black3 this forms the narrow stripe4 ,then form the broad stripe thus3 knit two stitches1 and turn2 then knit two of the black1 and turn2 this must be continued1 taking every time two additional stitches of the black1 until you are within two stitches of the top1 and then turn4 ,you will now find the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe4 ,you then again commence a narrow stripe1 and so go on1 until the whole is completed4 ,when the last wide stripe is finished1 knit it to the first narrow stripe1 and make up the biroche in any manner you please4 ,a ,,baby',s ,,cap4--,cast on #bdj stitches1 on three pins2 knit twelve rounds1 and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch3 in the succeeding round you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones4 ,then take in eighty stitches1 namely2 one at every fourth1 which will form a full border2 then proceed to knit the cap thus3 one row plain1 the next open1 then three plain1 and twenty-four double knitting2 again knit three rows plain1 one open1 repeat the three plain rows1 again repeat the double knitting1 and the plain and open rows as before2 you next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap1 by casting on twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins2 knit forty-eight rows of double knitting1 take in to the size of the crown1 and knit three rows plain1 one open1 and repeat the three plain rows2 then fasten off at top1 unite the open space at the back1 and repeat the plain and open rows as before4 ,you form the crown1 by casting on sixteen loops2 then increase a loop at each end1 for sixteen rows2 then knit sixteen1 and decrease as you increased1 and thus the circle becomes regularly formed4 ,,baby',s ,,hood4--,use ,no4 #ah needles1 and double ,german wool2 cast on fifty stitches1 and knit eighty rows plain2 roll up sixty1 to form the front4 ,three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together1 and the rest is to be drawn up for the crown4 ,then cast on fifty stitches to form the foundation of the hood1 and knit forty rows plain4 ,line with white silk1 and trim with satin ribbon4 ,,baby',s ,,shoe4--,work with two colors1 in stripes4 ,you cast on twenty-eight stitches1 in blue1 and knit one row plain2 then knit a plain row in white1 adding one stitch at the end to form the heel1 and turn2 then a similar row in blue1 to increase and turn1 repeat this without increasing1 and changing the colors each time1 until you have ten stripes4 ,then knit one row in blue1 and turn1 casting off seventeen stitches4 ,you begin from the heel4 ,the remaining thirteen stitches are knitted with white2 turn2 knit a row with blue2 turn3 and so continue1 until you have five rows of one color1 and four of the other4 ,the thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue1 and seventeen to correspond1 are to be added2 turn3 this side is finished like the other1 decreasing from the heel4 ,you then sew up the heel and toe1 so as to form a shoe4 ,you are then1 with four needles1 to pick up the stitches round the ankle and fore foot1 putting an equal number upon each of the three needles1 and knit five rows plain2 make a stitch by bringing the wool forward1 then slip one2 knit the next two1 and pass the slip-stitch over them2 again bring the wool forward1 and repeat the process for one round3 knit eighteen rows1 five plain1 four pearled2 repeat and finish1 bringing the wool forward1 knitting two together2 then knit two rows plain1 and cast off4 ,you must use ,no4 #ad needles1 and double ,german wool4 ,a ,,beautiful ,,fringe ,,and ,,border4--,this can be applied to a variety of useful purposes4 ,it is executed as follows4 ,the number of stitches must be even1 and of any depth you deem desirable4 ,begin1 by making a stitch1 laying the material over the needle2 put it through two loops1 and knit them as one2 repeat to the end of the row2 thus continue to knit as many rows as you please1 and when the stripe is of sufficient length1 fasten off1 letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel for the fringe4 ,a ,,comforter4--,on a moderate sized pin1 cast on forty stitches2 and in knitting1 carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch4 ,the comforter is to be done in double knitting1 and may be finished with a fringe and border at the end4 ,without the fringe1 you will require a quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool2 for the fringe a little more will be required4 ,,another ,,comforter4--,you are to cast on thirty stitches1 and knit plain sixty-four ribs1 knitting them backwards and forwards2 then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side1 and you will have twenty-one left one each end4 ,form a chest-piece1 by knitting as before1 twenty-two ribs1 and fasten off3 you have only to sew up the end1 and it is done4 ,,zephyr4--,this is a light shawl for a baby1 and may be made either of a half-handkerchief form1 or a square4 ,cast on about #acj loops1 and knit in ,french or honey-comb stitch1 which you like2 or any other pretty pattern you prefer1 as embossed hexagon1 c4 ,you may add a fringe and border1 which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance4 ,,an ,,over-,,shoe4--,these are useful to wear in the house1 or to slip over a satin shoe1 when occasion requires4 ,the number of stitches to be cast on is thirty-four4 ,knit a square1 plain1 which is to be doubled1 and sewn up on one side1 to the heel2 then sew up three inches for the instep1 and form the toe by puckering in the end4 ,a ,,knitted ,,muff1 ,,in ,,imitation ,,of ,,sable4--,you cast on seventy or eighty stitches4 ,knit the first three rows plain2 then1 for the fourth row1 bring the wool forward1 and taking two stitches at the back1 knit them2 repeat to the end3 these four must be repeated1 until the piece is about half a yard long1 taking care that the shading is as correct as possible4 ,you must here use ,no4 #ai needles1 and double ,german wool4 ,the shades required are four1 and you begin with the lightest1 proceeding to the darkest1 and then reversing them4 ,the muff must be stuffed1 and lined with silk4 ,a ,,strong ,,knitted ,,purse4--,any number of stitches1 that can be divided by three1 will do4 ,first and third row3 ,the wool is to be brought forward1 then slip one1 knit two1 and pass over them the slip stitch2 repeat second and fourth row plain4 ,third and fifth row3 knit two1 before commencing the pattern2 the holes will then fall in a diagonal direction3 ,it will require to be well stretched4 ,,barege ,,knitting1 ,,for ,,shawls4--,in this kind of work1 you commence with any number of stitches you require3 and1 after knitting one row plain1 you begin the second1 by knitting three stitches2 then1 bring the wool forward1 and knit three together1 taking them off at the back2 again you bring the wool forward1 and knit three1 as before4 ,the third row is pearled2 and the fourth is the second repeated1 only beginning by knitting three stitches together4 ,fifth row1 the same as the third2 and thus proceed with any number of rows you choose4 ,you may introduce any patterns in flowers1 c41 you may desire1 by breaking off the ground color1 and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern1 by means of a slip knot1 made at the end of the wool4 ,all flowers1 c41 must be done in plain knitting4 ,,checked ,,patterns4--,any number of stitches may be cast on1 that can be divided by six4 ,then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches1 and three plain2 second three rows1 knit three stitches plain1 and three pearl4 ,this pattern may be worked for children's socks1 bags1 mats1 7if done in coarse materials17 c4 ,,close ,,stitch1 ,,for ,a ,,waistcoat4--,this is to be done in two colors1 and cast on any odd number of stitches4 ,first and fifth row1 with one color2 knit one1 and slip one1 in succession4 ,second and sixth row1 with the same color2 knit one1 bring the wool forward1 and slip one2 pass the wool back1 knit one1 repeat4 ,the third is the first reversed1 and the fourth is worked exactly as the second1 omitting the first stitch4 ,,pine ,,apple ,,purse4--,the material is purse twist1 and you will require two colors2 one skein of green1 and one and a half of orange4 ,cast on #aei stitches1 and proceed as follows4 ,knit the first row1 and turn it1 then knit two rows1 and again turn4 ,to have ten points you must narrow and widen alternately every seven stitches4 ,proceed in this way with the green twist for fifteen rounds2 then with the orange knit one plain row and turn1 knit seven rows as before1 knit one plain row and turn1 then reverse the narrowings1 so as to take up the loops at the beginning of every row of points1 and make a loop on each side3 you are to have eight rows of points4 ,you make no loops in the second row1 but having counted when you have finished the points1 you seam in the first row of green and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops1 proceed to knit twelve rows2 after which1 you must narrow until you have but four loops on each pin1 then knit the stalks1 and narrow off4 ,,star1 ,,with ,,eight ,,points4--,this is proper for the bottom of a bag or purse4 ,in working it1 proceed according to the following directions4 ,you work with five needles1 on each of four of which you cast on two stitches1 eight in whole1 knit one plain round4 ,then1 first row1 raise1 knit one1 raise1 knit one1 and put on one bead at every knitted loop4 ,second row1 you knit a plain round4 ,third row1 raise1 knit two plain1 raise1 two plain2 the raising is at the beginning and middle of each needle2 and you thus proceed1 until you have fifty beads on a needle1 for a bag1 and eighteen for a purse4 ,to take off the points1 proceed as follows3 first row1 raise one1 knit one1 raise one1 slip one off needle as in knitting1 knit one1 and draw the one not knitted over it2 knit plain1 and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle2 thus proceed with each pin1 and the star will be completed4 ,,knee ,,caps4--,you commence with casting on eleven loops1 and knitting eight rounds2 then begin to raise every alternate round until you have forty-seven loops on the pins1 knit eleven rounds plain1 and then narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven4 ,take off4 ,,knitting ,,footing4--,the material is fine cotton1 and you cast eleven stitches4 ,knit one row plain4 ,second row1 knit one1 make one1 knit two together1 knit three plain1 make one1 knit two together knit three plain4 ,third row1 is the second row reversed2 the fourth is the same as the second2 and you thus proceed with each row1 alternately1 for any length you please4 ,a bag knitted the same way1 and put over blue or crimson silk1 looks extremely handsome4 ,the material for a bag is fine worsted1 and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by eleven1 taking care to have one additional stitch for each twenty-two2 that is1 for four elevens1 cast on forty-six4 ,,double ,,nightcap4--,you will find five needles are required4 ,you must cast on two stitches on each of four needles1 and in the first row increase two1 and in the second one plain stitch in each4 ,in the third row1 the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed1 and you must increase on each side of it every other row1 until you have attained the width required4 ,you then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain1 until the cap is of a sufficient length1 say twenty-four to twenty-eight inches1 then decrease the first row1 and make the other end to correspond with the one first knitted4 ,,dotted ,,knitting1 ,,for ,,baby',s ,,shoes1 ,c4--,cast on and knit as many rows as you desire1 knitting one stitch plain1 and the next pearled4 ,begin every other row with a pearled stitch4 ,an odd number of stitches are required1 and ,no4 #h needles4 ,,knitted ,,fringe4--,this may be made of any material deemed most suitable for the purposes to which it is to be applied4 ,cast on eight stitches4 ,first knit two1 then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle1 and knitting it when it occurs in the next row2 then knit two stitches together1 knit one1 make one as before1 knit two together1 knit eight1 and so proceed to the end of the row4 ,when you have knitted as many rows as you require1 cast off five stitches and leave three1 to be unravelled1 for the fringe4 ,they may be knitted in two or more colors1 taking care to knit them in equal spaces2 that is1 with an equal number of stitches in each color4 ,,gentleman',s ,,travelling ,,cap4--,you first cast on an even number of stitches1 and thus proceed2 the first row is plain2 then slip off the first stitch in each row1 and make one1 by bringing the material in front2 then slip a stitch the contrary way1 knit the next1 and so proceed to the end of the row3 you commence the next by slipping a stitch as before2 then knit two stitches together to the last1 which is to be knitted plain3 repeat these rows alternately4 ,,herring-,,bone ,,purse4--,the number of stitches must be so as to be divided by four4 ,the silk is to be brought forward1 then slip one1 knit one1 and bring the slip stitch over it4 ,knit one1 again bring the silk forward1 pearl one1 and so repeat4 ,this purse should be knitted with second sized netting silk1 ,no4 #ac4 ,,half ,,handkerchief4--,this is extremely pretty1 when properly executed4 ,begin with one stitch to form the point1 and knit as many rows1 increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the pin4 ,you must increase always at the same end3 then commence the pattern4 ,make one stitch1 slip one1 and knit two stitches together1 putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one4 ,repeat this until you have got to four stitches from the end2 then again make a stitch1 and knit the remainder plain4 ,the next row is to be done in pearl stitch1 and the succeeding one as the first pattern4 ,every row of pearl stitch must be increased one1 and the three last stitches are to be knitted plain4 ,this handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the straight side4 ,when completed1 fasten off4 ,,habit ,,shirt4--,these are worn under a shawl1 and are extremely comfortable3 they protect the chest from cold4 ,the material most proper for them is floss wool1 and they should be knitted with steel pins4 ,you knit the front first1 and begin by casting on as many loops as will form the length required4 ,as it is necessary that one end should be a good deal more sloped than the other1 you must be careful to increase at the end most sloped1 at each end of the row2 but at the other1 you are only to increase at the end1 and not at the beginning3 having knitted one of the fronts1 knit the other to match it1 and then begin the back4 ,commence at the bottom1 or narrow part of the waist1 and increase at each end of every row1 until it is wide enough to reach from one shoulder to the other1 and then decrease at both ends of each row for the neck4 ,you then finish the centre stitches1 and knit up first on one side and then the other1 decreasing each row1 until a proper hollow is obtained4 ,you then knit the collar straight1 and of any depth you please4 ,make up1 by sewing the various parts together1 and set on a ribbon to the back1 to tie round the waist1 and another to secure it at the throat4 ,,harlequin ,,quilt1 ,,with ,,tucks4--,this is done in double knitting stitch1 with six threads fleecy4 ,the pieces are six inches square4 ,each square consists of about #bd stitches1 and they are to be sewn together with a tuft of wool1 black or white1 at each corner4 ,the square should be knitted in at least three colors1 including white2 in a quilt one yard and a half square1 there will be #bbe pieces1 #aac of which should be white4 ,make the tufts as follows3 wind four-thread fleecy about #ab times round a grooved wooden mesh1 one inch in width3 then slip a coarse thread in the groove1 and tie the wool quite tight1 but taking care that an end is left to it1 which can be drawn through and fastened to the quilt4 ,the loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the mesh2 after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible4 ,,pattern ,,for ,a ,,light ,,scarf4--,cast on the number of stitches required upon ,no4 #ah needles1 and any kind of material you choose2 three-threads fleecy is generally preferred4 ,knit one plain stitch1 then two together1 and so on alternately1 to the end of the row3 each succeeding one is but a repetition of the first3 it may be done in stripes1 with various colors4 ,,plain ,,knitted ,,muffatees4--,for these you will require four needles4 ,on three of these cast on an equal number of stitches1 according to the size required1 and knit each round three pearl and three plain3 finish with one plain and two pearl rows4 ,,stockings4--,cast on first size #gc1 second #he1 third #ia1 fourth #ii1 fifth #aji1 sixth #acc4 ,then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings1 #dj1 #eb1 #ed1 #ef1 #fj1 and #gd1 respectively1 according to the sizes given above4 ,the narrowings in the leg are according to the size1 #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 and #ba4 ,after which you knit #ah1 #bj1 #be1 #bg1 #cj1 or #de rounds to the heel1 which is to be formed in the following manner4 ,the stitches are to be divided in half1 taking care to have the seam stitch for the middle1 and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and pearled stitches4 ,the length1 of course1 varies in proportion to the size1 being #ab turns for the first and second1 #ac for the third1 #ad for the fourth1 #ae for the fifth1 and #bj for the sixth4 ,the heel is finished by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows1 the same as the heel1 and taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row1 till all is taken off4 ,there will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished4 ,having got thus far1 you proceed to form the foot as follows4 ,you take up sixteen on each side of the heel1 in the second row1 and taking them up1 you make a seam on each side of the instep1 knitting another stitch in the loop under the first and last1 which prevents holes in the corners1 that would otherwise occur4 ,then narrow every second round on the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as those in the instep1 or what is commonly called the fore foot needle4 ,you will have for the instep #bh1 #cb1 #cd1 #dj1 or #df1 as the case may be2 and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings1 will be #ad1 #ah1 #bc1 #bf1 #cj1 and #cd1 respectively2 and the narrowings for the feet will be #f1 #h1 #h1 #h1 #i1 and #aj1 on each side1 according to the measurement given4 ,you begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams1 leaving only the seam stitch between1 and narrowing twice with three1 and twice with two rounds left between each narrowing3 then narrow twice1 leaving but one round between1 and then every round until sixteen stitches only are left4 ,finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them together4 ,and when two stitches are done in this manner1 cast them off1 the first over the last1 until the whole is taken off the needles4 ,it should be noted1 that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the stocking1 and are as follows3 first size #bi1 second #cc1 third #cc1 fourth #cg1 fifth #da1 and sixth #de4 ,some workers take off the heel1 in the same manner as the toe is here directed to be finished4 ,,open-,,work ,,stockings4--,on each needle cast on #eb stitches with fine cotton1 knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam4 ,when you arrive at the narrowings1 narrow every eighth row1 and when you have #ch stitches on each needle1 cease1 and knit until the article is completed2 then take half the stitches to form the heel1 knit #bc loops1 and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows4 ,in forming the heel1 narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam1 and then the loops must be taken up1 the end one as close as possible4 ,take three stitches from each side of the fore foot needle to the other1 and knit a round plain2 after which1 widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel4 ,alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only #cf loops remain on each4 ,the stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and sixth from the ends4 ,knit the feet of a proper length1 and then narrow at the ends of the needles every other row1 until only ten remain on each2 narrow every row until you have only three1 which you cast off in the usual manner4 ,the open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth round thus3 take two stitches in one1 and bring the cotton in front of the needle1 that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two into one4 ,the more open you desire the work to be1 the fewer stitches and the finer needles you will require4 ,a ,,night ,,stocking4--,this is easily done3 cast on #ed stitches on large needles1 and pearl every other stitch1 narrowing gradually toward the end4 ,,socks4--,these are very useful articles1 and are easy of execution4 ,in the first size there are #di stitches1 in the second #ee1 and in the third #he2 they have #af1 #bc1 or #bd turns to the heel1 in which there are #be1 #bi1 or #dc stitches1 as the size may require4 ,the instep has #bd1 #be1 or #db stitches2 and the length of the heel is #aj1 #ab1 or #ad turns4 ,the length of the foot between the narrowings1 is #aj1 #ae1 and #bh rounds4 ,,corner ,,for ,a ,,shawl4--,this1 if properly executed1 according to the directions1 looks extremely handsome4 ,begin by casting on two loops1 to form the point2 knit them1 and proceed as follows4 ,first row1 make a loop1 knit the two original ones together1 make a loop2 you will then have three loops upon the pin2 knit four additional rows in plain and pearled alternately1 increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row1 and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches4 ,in the next row commence the pattern thus4 ,sixth row begin with six plain stitches1 pearl one1 knit six plain4 ,seventh row plain knitting4 ,eighth row1 knit six plain1 pearl one1 knit two together1 pearl one1 knit two together1 pearl one1 knit six plain4 ,ninth row plain4 ,tenth1 knit six plain1 pass the material in front to make a stitch1 knit two together1 again make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 knit six plain4 ,eleventh row plain4 ,twelfth1 knit six plain1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 knit six plain4 ,thirteenth row plain4 ,fourteenth1 knit six plain1 pearl three1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 knit two together1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 pearl three1 knit six plain4 ,fifteenth row plain4 ,sixteenth1 knit six plain1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl five1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 knit six plain4 ,seventeenth row plain4 ,eighteenth1 six plain1 pearl three1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 knit five plain1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 pearl three1 knit six plain4 ,nineteenth row plain4 ,twentieth1 knit six plain1 knit two together1 pearl three1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl four1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl four1 make a stitch1 knit two together1 pearl three1 knit two together1 knit six plain4 ,the twenty-first row is plain1 and you then decrease as you increased1 knitting the twenty-second row as the twentieth1 and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin4 ,the square is then complete4 ,,border ,,for ,,the ,,shawl4--,having finished the corner1 pick up the twenty-one stitches on one side1 and knit one row plain2 the second row1 knit two plain1 three pearled1 three plain1 again pearl three1 then three plain1 pearl three1 knit four plain4 ,the third row knit plain2 the fourth row1 pearl one stitch1 knit one1 pearl one1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three together1 knit one1 pearl one1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl four1 knit four plain4 ,fifth row plain4 ,sixth row knit one1 pearl one1 knit one1 pearl one1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 pearl three1 knit one1 pearl one1 knit one1 pearl one1 knit two together1 make a stitch1 knit six plain4 ,seventh row plain4 ,eighth row1 same as the sixth4 ,ninth plain4 ,tenth as the fourth4 ,eleventh plain4 ,twelfth as the second1 repeat the first three rows1 and re-commence the pattern4 ,the shawl must be knitted on the same sized pins as the border and corner1 and must have as many loops as there are stitches in the length of the border4 ,the border and corner may be done in two colors1 which must harmonize well with each other1 and form a good contrast to the shawl itself4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,netting4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches4 ,netting is another employment1 to which the attention of the fair has been directed from the remotest times4 ,specimens of ,egyptian network1 performed three thousand years since1 are still in existence2 and1 from that time1 the art1 in connection with that of spinning flax1 was there carried to its highest state of perfection4 ,with these specimens1 are preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting4 ,they are to be found in one of the museums at ,berlin4 ,the ,egyptian nets were made of flax1 and were so fine and delicate1 that according to ,pliny1 they could pass through a small ring1 and a single person could carry a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood4 ,julius ,lupus1 while governor of ,egypt1 had some of these nets1 each string of which consisted of one hundred and fifty threads4 ,but even this fineness was far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet1 presented by ,amasis1 king of ,egypt1 to the ,rhodians1 the threads of which1 as we learn from the same authority1 were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five fibres4 ,herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture4 ,in connection with other elegant female accomplishments1 netting has continued to claim the attention of the ladies of ,europe1 in every advanced state of civilization1 and1 in the present day1 is cultivated with considerable success4 ,netting was a favorite employment of the late ,queen ,charlotte1 during the latter years of her life4 ,illustration ,,plain ,,netting4--,take the mesh in the left hand1 7having previously made a long loop with twine1 and fixed it to any convenient support17 between the two first fingers and the thumb4 ,the netting needle must be threaded with the material1 and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken of1 and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot under the twine4 ,the silk is to be held in the right hand between the fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left hand1 so that the material may be formed into a slack loop1 passing over all the fingers1 except the little one4 ,in this position1 the silk must be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb1 and the needle must be passed back1 round the pin or mesh1 allowing the material to form a larger loop1 so as to include the little finger4 ,the needle will thus be brought round1 in front of the mesh1 and must pass under the first loop1 between the mesh and the fingers1 and thus through the loop called the foundation loop1 and thence over that portion of the material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop4 ,the needle must be kept in its position1 till the right hand is so brought round as to be able to pull it through1 and then the needle being drawn out and held in the right hand1 the worker must disengage all the fingers of the left except the last1 which is to retain its hold of the second loop1 which was formed by passing the material round it4 ,by means of this hold1 retained by the little finger1 the material is to be drawn to the mesh1 and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the foundation4 ,this process is to be repeated1 until a sufficient number of stitches are formed as are necessary1 according to the width of the net desired4 ,as the mesh is filled1 some of the loops must be suffered to drop off2 and when the row is completed1 it must be drawn out1 and a row of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective knots1 and moving freely onwards4 ,the work is then to be turned over1 which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed2 and in netting a second row1 it will be done as before from left to right4 ,in commencing the second1 and all the succeeding rows1 the mesh must be so placed as to come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops1 and the former process with the needle must be repeated4 ,it will be needful1 to have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle1 or otherwise it will not move freely round1 as it is indispensible it should do4 ,,bead ,,stitch4--,to execute this stitch properly1 requires care1 but it is very ornamental4 ,beads of all kinds1 may be introduced4 ,in order to net with beads1 you must procure a long taper darning needle3 the stitch is as follows2 string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with3 this bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh1 and held there until the knot is made2 at the back of the mesh1 bring the needle and thread1 passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh4 ,the needle and thread are then to be drawn through it1 by which means the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made4 ,by working the beads in this manner1 they will be kept stationary upon the thread1 and so remain in their places1 and impart much beauty to the work4 ,illustration ,,diamond ,,netting4--,this kind of netting is easy of execution1 and looks extremely pretty4 ,it is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch1 in order to effect which1 the silk must be put twice round the mesh1 instead of once1 as in plain netting4 ,treble diamond netting is similar1 only the process is rather more difficult in execution4 ,after netting three rows plain1 at the beginning1 the first row is to be composed of one loop stitch1 and three plain stitches1 repeated until the row is finished3 then in working the second row1 commence with a plain stitch1 then follow with a loop1 then two plain stitches1 and repeat as before4 ,for the third row begin with one or two plain stitches1 make a loop1 then net a stitch plain1 and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch to the end of the row4 ,for the fourth row you net three stitches in plain netting1 then make a loop stitch1 and repeat as in previous rows4 ,an attention to this arrangement1 will soon enable the young student in net-work1 to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable4 ,illustration ,,diamond ,,netting1 ,,of ,,five ,,stitches4--,commence with a long loop1 then net five loops plain1 repeat to the end of the row1 finishing with a long loop4 ,second row1 begin with a plain loop1 make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in the previous row1 and withdraw the mesh before commencing the next loop1 work four loops plain1 and so proceed4 ,third row is commenced as the second3 withdraw the mesh as before1 and work three plain loops4 ,begin the fourth row with a plain stitch1 work a long loop1 then a loose stitch2 withdraw the mesh1 and work two plain stitches2 again withdraw the mesh1 work a plain stitch1 and so proceed to the end4 ,the fifth is begun with two plain stitches2 then form a loose stitch1 withdraw the mesh1 work one plain loop1 again withdraw the mesh1 and finish with two plain stitches4 ,the sixth row commences with three stitches plain1 then make one loose stitch1 and finish with two plain ones4 ,for the seventh row1 commence as in the last case2 make a long loop1 and finish with two plain stitches4 ,the eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting2 withdraw the mesh1 net one stitch plain1 make a loose stitch1 again withdraw the mesh1 and finish the row with a plain stitch4 ,in doing the ninth row net two stitches plain1 withdraw the mesh1 net two more plain stitches1 make a loose stitch1 again withdraw the mesh1 and finish with a plain stitch4 ,the tenth row is begun as the last1 but instead of the loose stitch1 net a plain one1 then make the loose stitch1 and withdraw the mesh4 ,the mesh proper for this kind of netting is ,no4 #ah1 and the silk called second-sized purse twist1 is the best adapted for this kind of work4 ,illustration ,,dotted ,,netting4--,this is easily done4 ,cast on the number of loops you require1 and proceed as follows4 ,begin with long loop1 in which you next increase two stitches2 repeat to the end of the row4 ,none of the rows are at all varied2 and you must carefully preserve its uniform appearance1 as in that consists its principal beauty4 ,,shaded ,,silk ,,netting4--,this is beautiful1 when the shades blend well together4 ,of course1 each row must be worked in one shade1 and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care4 ,it is not possible to give minute rules on such a subject3 but1 in this1 as in other things1 practice will insure success4 ,illustration ,,grecian ,,netting4--,this is beautiful1 and should be worked with fine silk1 and with two meshes1 ,no4 #i and #ah2 one plain row is to be netted with the large mesh1 and then in the next row employ the small one4 ,the silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting1 and the needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch1 and thence into the second4 ,then let the second be drawn through the first1 and the first through the second1 finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight4 ,the succeeding stitch is a small loop1 that appears to cross the stitches twisted together4 ,these three kinds of stitches form the pattern1 and are to be repeated until the work is completed4 ,grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes1 and you can1 of course1 vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with the design you are intending to accomplish4 ,illustration ,,french ,,ground ,,net4--,you must have an even number of loops on the foundation1 then proceed4 ,first row1 plain stitches and long loops1 alternately2 second row plain2 make a loose stitch1 and repeat4 ,begin the fourth with a loose stitch1 net one plain1 repeat to the end2 commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop1 make a long loop1 and the little loop as in the third row2 in coming after the last long loop1 the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch4 ,,another ,,kind ,,of ,,honeycomb ,,netting4--,use a mesh ,no4 #ag1 and set on an even number of stitches4 ,net the first row plain1 having the silk round the mesh twice4 ,for the second row you put the silk once round the mesh and net the second loop1 having previously half twisted it4 ,then net the first loop plain1 net the fourth as the second1 again net a stitch plain1 and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches1 alternately4 ,the third row is the same as the first1 and the fourth as the second4 ,these kinds of netting are very pretty for purses1 bags1 c41 and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four or five rows of plain1 and the same number of honeycomb netting4 ,illustration ,,honeycomb ,,netting4--,you are to make an even number of loops1 putting the silk twice round a ,no4 #ah mesh1 for the second row net with the silk once round the mesh1 and put the first stitch through the second at the back1 and net it2 then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted3 you do the same with each two of the other stitches1 and must be careful not to burst them4 ,for the third row1 the silk is put twice round the mesh1 and the netting is plain4 ,you proceed thus in alternate rows until the work is done4 ,illustration ,,honeycomb ,,netting1 ,,with ,,two ,,meshes4--,the meshes proper are ,no4 #i and #af4 ,cast on an even number of stitches1 and net the first row plain1 with the ,no4 #i mesh4 ,with mesh ,no4 #af net the second row1 working the second stitch first and the first second1 and so proceed netting the fourth stitch1 and then the third1 and so on to the end4 ,work the third row with ,no4 #i as before1 and the fourth row as the second1 only netting the first loop plain1 and then taking1 first the third1 and then the second1 and so on to the end1 finishing with a loop in plain netting4 ,the next row is done plain with ,no4 #i1 the next with ,no4 #af1 exactly as the first twisted row4 ,the odd stitch netted plain1 only occurs at the commencement of each alternate row of netting done with ,no4 #af4 ,this kind of netting is proper for a veil4 ,illustration ,,leaf ,,netting4--,this is pretty when executed properly4 ,you should work with cotton1 and ,no4 #ad mesh4 ,five loops are required for each pattern4 ,commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge1 then net three plain1 in the next loop increase four1 and repeat this operation to the end of the row2 finish with two plain loops4 ,begin the second row as before1 and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row1 into one2 then net four loops plain2 repeat this to the end of the row1 and net two plain as before4 ,the third row is plain netting4 ,the fourth row has two loops netted plain1 then two more plain2 you then increase four on each of the next two loops1 net one plain1 and repeat the operation to the end of the row2 finish by netting two stitches plain4 ,fifth row1 commence as before1 net one plain loop1 collect the increased loops as the second row1 net three plain1 and so repeat2 net two plain to finish the row4 ,the next row is netted plain4 ,repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be done4 ,,net ,,with ,,points4--,this is done by making a foundation of1 say1 ninety stitches4 ,net on this foundation with any color you please4 ,net fifty stitches and return back again1 proceed as before1 only decreasing ten stitches1 and so go on1 until the required point is gained4 ,two colors are required4 ,illustration ,,maltese ,,netting1 ,,in ,,spots4--,this is neat and elegant3 it is done as follows4 ,the first two rows are netted plain3 you commence the third row by netting seven stitches2 the silk is then to be passed round the mesh1 and the needle brought under the knot in the second row1 but without netting it2 that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net4 ,a loop is then made1 which is not to be netted separately1 as that would increase a stitch in the next row2 but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted4 ,if you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent1 let the silk pass twice round the mesh1 and afterwards through the loop1 and repeat the operation to the end4 ,you may do this spotting1 either as it appears in the pattern1 or in almost any form you please4 ,illustration ,,plain ,,open ,,netting4--,this is pretty1 and easy of execution4 ,the operation is performed by netting three rows plain1 then a row of loop stitches1 then three rows plain1 and a row of loops as before4 ,you may net to any length you please4 ,the direction here given is all that is necessary1 and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain proficiency4 ,illustration ,,round ,,netting4--,you commence making the loops1 as in common netting1 by twisting the silk round the fingers1 then pass the needle and the silk through the finger-loop1 and bring it up on the back side of the mesh1 between it and the fore finger2 the fingers and loop are still to be kept on them as before2 the middle is then to be reversed1 and brought down through the first loop1 7on the foundation17 and taking a slanting direction over the mesh4 ,having drawn it entirely through1 you withdraw your finger from the loop1 as in ordinary netting4 ,you every succeeding loop in the same way4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,netting4 ,,examples ,,in ,,netting4 ,a ,,purse1 ,,with ,,china ,,silk4--,make as many stitches on the foundation as you please4 ,net three rows with plain colors1 then five with ,china silk4 ,repeat4 ,a ,,seam ,,purse1 ,,with ,,beads4--,you will need four skeins of fine silk1 and a mesh1 ,no4 #h4 ,on a foundation of one hundred stitches1 net one plain row4 ,then in the next row1 net a plain and a bead stitch successively4 ,net the third row plain1 and begin the next with a bead stitch4 ,proceed thus till the purse is completed4 ,a ,,netted ,,bag1 ,,with ,,ring4--,on a foundation of sixty stitches1 net the bag to half the length required2 then net in a gilt ring1 and finish the bag4 ,draw it up with ribbon1 and place a gilded or silk tassel at the bottom4 ,you will require coarse netting silk1 and a ,no4 #af mesh4 ,you may use union cord1 or gilt twist1 if you prefer it4 ,,dice ,,pattern ,,purse4--,this is done in two colors1 highly contrasted4 ,you must have two skeins of second sized silk1 and a ,no4 #aj mesh4 ,on a foundation of ninety-eight stitches1 net seven with the darkest color4 ,you net seven rows4 ,then introduce the lighter silk1 by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color1 and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation4 ,you must be careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row3 repeat this process until the purse is of the length you require2 of course reversing the squares4 ,in cutting off the silk1 you must leave sufficient to make a weaver's knot1 with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color4 ,,honeycomb ,,mittens4--,you commence by casting on fifty stitches2 the first four rows are to netted plain3 after which1 you net one row with the silk1 twice round the mesh2 again net two rows with the silk round the mesh once3 you then commence netting rounds1 and net rows as before4 ,the first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh1 the second is in honey-comb pattern2 the third round is executed as the first1 and the fourth as the second2 for the fifth round you net eleven stitches with the silk1 round the mesh1 as in the first row1 and make two increased stitches in the twelfth loop2 in the next row1 you are to net five stitches and increase two1 netting the whole1 as in the first row2 net the seventh like the second1 and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds1 a plain and a pattern round alternately2 in the next round1 which is plain1 pass the silk twice round the mesh1 and net seven stitches2 increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern1 alternate rounds2 in the eighteenth increase two1 and net five rounds2 again increase two1 and net five2 and on each side again increase two2 net three rounds after the last increase1 continuing to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased1 and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the thumb2 if it does not fit as it ought to do1 you must decrease1 until that object is secured2 you are to finish the thumb1 by netting a round with the silk1 put twice round the mesh1 and two rounds in plain netting2 the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb1 in order to finish the hand3 and you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively4 ,when the mitten is nearly the length you wish1 finish in the same manner you did the thumb1 using double silk4 ,,netted ,,cuffs4--,the materials are ,german wool and ,french floss silk1 and the work is executed with a mesh1 ,no4 #aa1 and a small steel one1 ,no4 #ae4 ,you commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops2 and in order to form the right side1 you net one row of wool with the large mesh1 and three rows of silk with the small one1 alternately1 till you have netted twenty four rows4 ,then you form the wrong side1 by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh1 and two rows of the same material with the small one4 ,you will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh1 with two narrow rows between each4 ,then net one wide row with wool1 having in each loop three stitches2 above this1 knit one narrow row of silk1 and do the same at the other end4 ,you have only to double the cuffs1 turning the plain side inmost1 and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to the whole4 ,,netted ,,cuff ,,with ,,silk ,,and ,,wool4--,on a foundation of ninety-six stitches1 and with a ,no4 #aa mesh1 net one row plain in floss silk4 ,second row the same4 ,then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width1 net one row in ,german wool4 ,the fourth row is to be done two stitches in one1 with wool1 using a small mesh4 ,then for the inside half of the cuff1 net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes1 successively4 ,these to be done in silk and wool alternately4 ,the next three rows to be netted in dark wool4 ,then with the small mesh net two rows in silk1 the same color as at the commencement1 alternately1 with seven rows of wool1 in proper shades1 and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning4 ,,netted ,,fringe4--,use a mesh ,no4 #ah1 and net the required length1 dropping off the stitches on the left4 ,net the next row the same4 ,then with a flat mesh1 the width of the fringe1 placing the grooved edge downward1 net one row4 ,these latter loops are to be cut1 and either left as they are1 or knitted two and two together1 as the taste of the worker may dictate4 ,,netted ,,opera ,,cap4--,work with one mesh1 half an inch wide2 and another1 smaller1 of steel2 and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches4 ,you must procure in double ,german wool1 two colors that contrast well3 commence with the darkest shade1 and net with the wide mesh one row2 the second is to be netted with the narrow one1 and so on alternately3 the sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh3 then net five more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately3 this done1 you commence with the other color1 and net one row1 having three stitches on each loop of the row preceding3 you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used1 and net one row with the narrow mesh2 in that row all the stitches of the last row1 netted in wool1 must be taken up separately2 the foundation is now to be removed1 and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk1 are to be netted to correspond4 ,net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former1 and taking one of the pieces1 fold it in the middle1 and net one row with the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots2 in the piece thus doubled1 proceed to net a row with the wide mesh1 then two with the narrow one1 and again one with the wide mesh4 ,the other piece is then to be folded in the same manner1 and united to the former one by netting a row1 taking up as before the centre row of knots4 ,this makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces4 ,at the back1 in the centre row of knots1 net a row with the narrow mesh1 to keep it on an even fold4 ,you draw up the cap at the end1 and put the strings on4 ,this completes it4 ,illustration ,,netted ,,scollop ,,edging4--,you work this with a flat mesh1 and set on as many stitches as you intend to have scollops4 ,the flat mesh should be ,no4 #c2 and you will also require two round ones1 one ,no4 #ad and the other ,no4 #ah4 ,begin the work as follows4 ,net the first row with the flat mesh1 and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation4 ,for the second row1 use the mesh ,no4 #ad1 and net a plain stitch into each loop4 ,then1 with the mesh ,no4 #ah1 net the third row in long loops1 by passing the material twice round the mesh2 you are to increase two stitches in the same loop1 and so continue to the end of the row4 ,in the fourth row you use the mesh ,no4 #ad and leaving all the increased stitches without netting them1 net the long loops plain4 ,the fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh ,no4 #ad1 which finishes the scollop4 ,,plain ,,netted ,,gentleman',s ,,purse4--,of coarse netting silk1 you will require five skeins1 and a mesh1 ,no4 #ac4 ,you must have a foundation of eighty stitches on which to commence1 and you net to the length of ten inches4 ,net up the sides and damp it slightly1 after which it is put upon a purse stretcher1 where it is to be left for a few hours1 then take it off and trim it as you please4 ,a ,,lady',s ,,purse4--,net in the same manner seventy stitches on the foundation1 and nine inches in length is sufficient4 ,employ a mesh ,no4 #aj1 and fine netting silk4 ,two colors may be used1 netting five rows with one1 and four with the other4 ,,plain ,,netted ,,mittens4--,begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation1 and net four rows plain2 then form the loops1 for the ribbon1 with a mesh double the size of that you work with4 ,then five rows more are to be netted plain2 and in the next you must join both ends1 and net one plain round1 taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase4 ,again net round1 and increase as before4 ,net the remaining stitches4 ,you must then net sixteen rounds1 increasing two stitches1 to form the thumb1 in the same place as the other increased stitches1 every other round4 ,join the thumb stitches1 and net seven rounds1 which is the length of the thumb1 decreasing a stitch or two in every round4 ,with the larger mesh you are to net two stitches in every loop1 and then net one round1 taking the two together4 ,net two or three rounds with a finer mesh3 this finishes the thumb4 ,net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand1 and finish as before4 ,run in the ribbon1 and edge with lace4 ,you must have a ,no4 #ab mesh1 and five skeins of silk4 ,illustration ,a ,,plain ,,scollop4--,you must cast on one stitch for each scollop3 this is the first row4 ,for the second1 use a flat mesh ,no4 #a1 and increase twenty stitches in each loop4 ,net the third with a round mesh ,no4 #ad1 netting all the increased loops plain4 ,the two next rows are netted plain1 with the same mesh1 which finishes the pattern4 ,illustration ,,cap ,,border ,,scollop4--,you commence with one stitch for each scollop1 as in last pattern4 ,for the second row1 use the flat mesh ,no4 #a1 and increase in each loop twelve stitches4 ,net the third round with the round mesh ,no4 #ae1 and be careful to net the increased stitches plain4 ,the last row is netted plain1 with the same mesh as the preceding one4 ,the cotton used in the netting of these scollops1 should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist4 ,,net ,,cravat4--,this is netted with ,german wool1 and with a mesh ,no4 #i4 ,having cast on #djj stitches1 in the color you intend first to use1 net twenty-three rows in plain netting4 ,then introduce the other color1 or white2 and again1 in the same manner1 net twenty-three rows4 ,proceed thus1 till you have three stripes of each color3 then net the two sides together1 and draw up the ends4 ,you may add tassels1 if you choose4 ,a ,,net ,,scarf4--,this is to be worked with two flat needles1 ,no4 #h and ,no4 #b1 and in that kind of silk called dockers4 ,you are to commence1 by casting on #baj stitches1 and netting four rows with the smaller mesh1 and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one4 ,these repeated1 six times1 completes the scarf4 ,you must add the four narrow rows1 which will complete the edge4 ,the scarf is to be drawn up at each end1 and have tassels attached4 ,a ,,long ,,purse1 ,,in ,,points4--,upon your foundation loops1 put sixty stitches in one of the colors you intend to use1 and return on them4 ,then1 in the next row1 put on forty stitches1 the next forty1 and so on to ten1 always returning on the number last put on1 and leaving the ten unnetted4 ,you then1 with another needle1 introduce your other color1 and put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops1 commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color4 ,when you have reached the last of the sixty1 which you will do when you have put on the ten1 you must draw the mesh out1 and pass the needle with the second color1 through the concluding stitch of the first1 working back upon the second color the ten stitches last introduced4 ,the rest of the row is increased ten2 and you must then decrease1 as you did with the first color4 ,one pattern is then complete2 and you re-commence and proceed as before4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,crochet4 ,,stitches ,,in ,,crochet4 ,crochet has been long known1 but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle1 during the last few years4 ,it is very difficult to describe1 though easy of execution1 and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes4 ,it is most frequently adopted in working shawls1 table covers1 pillows1 mats1 slippers1 carriage mats1 and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility4 ,silk1 cotton1 and wool1 are employed1 and the work is so easy1 that a moderate share of attention to details1 will make an expert workman4 ,,stitches4--,these are called plain single crochet1 plain double crochet1 plain stitch open crochet1 and open crochet1 with a variety of stitches4 ,it is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch1 though it is easy of execution3 perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct4 ,take a skein of wool1 and having wound it1 make a loop at one end1 like the first link in a chain2 through this draw another1 and so on1 until the chain is of the length required4 ,each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop4 ,this forms the foundation1 and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make4 ,she must pass the needle through the last loop of the foundation1 and catching the silk or other material from behind1 draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation1 until the row is completed4 ,having thus formed the first row1 she must proceed as before to form a second1 and so on from right to left1 and from left to right1 until she has all the rows required4 ,this is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides1 producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession4 ,in working she must not generally work backward and forward1 but must finish each row separately4 ,,plain ,,crochet4--,make only one loop in each stitch4 ,in making common purses in crochet1 this is the stitch generally employed4 ,,plain ,,double ,,crochet4--,keep two loops on the needle before finishing the stitch4 ,this stitch is more generally in use than any of the others described4 ,,plain ,,stitch ,,open ,,crochet4--,this stitch is done in the following manner4 ,to the last link of the foundation chain1 crochet five stitches1 which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain4 ,this is to be repeated to the foundation4 ,the rest of the rows are to be done in the same way1 attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding4 ,this looks extremely well for purses1 and it can be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct4 ,illustration ,,open ,,crochet4--,this stitch is difficult to describe2 an attention to the following rules will1 we hope1 enable the reader to understand it4 ,first make a chain of the length required for the foundation2 then work one stitch plain1 and bring the material round the needle1 which must be passed through the first loop of the chain1 through which bring the material1 and you will thus have three stitches on the needle4 ,through the two first of these the material must be drawn1 which will leave two2 through these the material must be again drawn1 and that will leave one1 through which you are to make one stitch plain1 as at the commencement4 ,you then put the material over the needle1 and through the fourth link of the chain1 and proceed as before4 ,you will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones1 which will leave an open space4 ,illustration ,,double ,,open ,,crochet4--,this is a similar stitch1 only the single stitch is omitted1 and the two long stitches are made together1 by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch4 ,thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession4 ,illustration ,,treble ,,open ,,crochet4--,this is exactly like the last1 only making three long stitches1 instead of two1 before every plain stitch4 ,it looks neat and elegant1 and may have beads introduced1 which produce a charming effect4 ,the following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy4 ,thread the beads on a strong silk1 and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones4 ,this will1 of course1 place a bead in the centre of each square4 ,beads of various colors may be introduced1 so as to form a diamond4 ,a gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond4 ,,double ,,stitch ,,crochet4--,to work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain1 instead of one1 as in common crochet4 ,,plain ,,stitch ,,elastic ,,crochet4--,work backward and forwards1 first taking one mesh of the chain1 and then the other4 ,the upper mesh must be taken first4 ,,bead ,,stitch4--,if you wish to work with beads1 you must thread all you intend to use1 before you begin to work4 ,then when you wish to insert a bead1 no matter what the pattern is you are executing1 you have only to pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked1 and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual2 but this will leave it on the wrong side2 to prevent which1 you must bring the crocheting thread to the front1 having it on the fore finger of the left hand3 by thus keeping the bead in front1 and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch you are about to work1 you can draw the thread through the back1 and make the finishing loop in the common way3 you will then find that the bead is on the right side4 ,,edge ,,stitch4--,to work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the first stitch on the row1 or on the round1 if you work in rounds1 then draw a second loop through the one last made4 ,thus the edge stitch is formed4 ,it is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch1 because if it is not done1 you will lose in each row a stitch4 ,on a round1 it is not necessary to work the edge stitch2 but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way1 the edge stitch is indispensible4 ,a ,,raised ,,stitch4--,make this by passing the needle through1 both meshes of the chain1 and working two stitches instead of one1 in the same space or hole4 ,,to ,,increase ,,or ,,decrease ,a ,,stitch4--,in the former case1 make two stitches in the mesh2 and in the latter1 take two stitches together as one1 or miss one4 ,,true ,,stitch4--,this means to keep the stitches exactly over each other1 when working in different colors1 so as to conceal the half stitch4 ,this must be done with care3 and the more attention is paid to it1 the more beautiful will the work appear4 ,,to ,,fasten ,,on ,,or ,,off4--,the former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise1 and working a few stitches with both4 ,the latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch1 which must be fastened at the back4 ,a ,,dividing ,,line4--,the most general form is that of working two stitches up and down alternately1 between the stripes in the groundings2 but it can be varied according to taste4 ,what is called making a stitch1 at the beginning and end of a row1 means making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last1 which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row4 ,,to ,,carry ,,on ,a ,,thread ,,in ,,double ,,crochet4--,it is a very common thing to work a pattern in crochet1 in more than one color2 when this is the case1 it is necessary that the colors1 not required1 should be so managed1 as not to make loops1 or stitches1 at the back4 ,to accomplish this1 they must be worked in the following manner4 ,let the threads1 that are not required1 be laid along the fore finger of the left hand2 and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner1 into the stitch2 you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on1 and the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back1 through the stitch1 into which you inserted the needle or hook4 ,make the finishing loop as usual1 which you carry over the threads1 and pull through the two loops you have upon the needle4 ,thus you will make one stitch1 and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires it4 ,,joining ,,the ,,threads4--,in order that threads may be united neatly and properly1 observe the following directions4 ,do not work up the thread quite to the end1 but leave a small portion2 then1 on the fore finger of the left hand1 by the end of the thread you are about to commence working with1 the end to be toward the tip of the finger1 the ball will of course be toward the arm2 work over it for about six stitches1 proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads2 then by the thread you worked with1 but on the same finger1 and continue with the thread you have last fastened on1 and work over it1 in the same manner1 for about six stitches4 ,the ends are then to be cut1 and you work on as usual1 with the thread just joined4 ,this is the best method we know1 of making the work appear neat1 and1 at the same time1 of securing the required degree of fineness4 ,,to ,,increase ,a ,,stitch ,,in ,,crochet4--,the process by which this is done1 is as follows4 ,first1 make the stitch as usual1 then work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch4 ,this prevents a hole1 which would otherwise occur4 ,,to ,,take ,,in ,a ,,stitch4--,to do this1 two stitches are taken on the needle at the same time1 and you work them off as one4 ,we have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in crochet1 that our limited space will allow2 and we hope that the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning4 ,but we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment1 even tolerable success1 unless she will assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions4 ,no one can become an expert needlewoman1 who does not think1 and think deeply1 too4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,crochet4 ,,examples ,,in ,,crochet4 ,illustration ,,crochet ,,edging1 ,,for ,,collars1 ,c4--,ascertain the length you will require1 and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches2 you must use a steel hook ,no4 #ai4 ,you will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch4 ,if the tops be an inch wide1 it will form a good beginning and termination4 ,the foundation of chain stitch forms the first row2 the second is worked thus2 the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation2 7this will be on the tape17 through which1 a loop is to be brought in the usual manner2 directly above this1 a second loop is worked1 which forms the beginning4 ,you now leave the tape1 and work two chain stitches2 after which1 you throw a stitch on the needle1 by casting the material over it4 ,then1 taking the third loop on the foundation1 counting from the one last worked1 you insert the hook1 passing two loops without working them1 and catching the thread from behind1 pull it through4 ,thus1 you will have on the needle three loops2 and you must now throw a stitch on the hook1 which is1 in like manner1 to be pulled through the first loop1 near the point4 ,by this1 you will still have three loops on the hook4 ,again1 throw on a stitch as before1 which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook2 then throw on another stitch1 which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook4 ,you will then have only one loop upon the needle2 and thus one stitch is completed4 ,make two chain stitches1 as before1 and then perform another stitch2 and so proceed1 as in the former row1 but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop1 as before1 pass it into the first open portion of the work1 and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row1 as follows4 ,the needle being inserted into the open space1 you are to catch the material in from behind1 and draw it through1 by which you will have three loops on the hook3 then throw a loop on as before1 and let it be drawn through the first loop1 on the point of the hook4 ,another loop is next to be thrown in1 and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook1 on which you will now have two loops4 ,you thus complete the stitch1 as in the previous row1 and so proceed to the end4 ,the next row is the same in all respects2 and the fifth is to form a ,vandyke edge3 it is worked in the following manner3 the needle is inserted into the open space1 and work a double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row2 then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain stitches of the last row1 in the same manner as before4 ,thus one scollop or vandyke is completed1 and you work all the others in the same way4 ,illustration ,,petticoat ,,crochet ,,edging4--,work this in the following manner4 ,first row like the last pattern4 ,the second like the second of the last2 and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern4 ,persian cotton1 ,no4 #f1 is the best material2 and you work with a long steel crochet needle1 having an ivory screw handle4 ,,crochet ,,edging1 ,,handkerchiefs4--,this is done in three rows1 worked as the first1 second1 third1 and fifth rows of crochet edging1 for collars4 ,the material is ,persian thread1 ,no4 #ab2 and you work with a fine steel crochet needle1 with a screw handle4 ,,insertion1 ,,or ,,crochet ,,beading4--,you work this1 if narrow1 as first and second rows of the first pattern2 if you have it wider1 work it as the third row4 ,it may be either worked with ,no4 #h or ,no4 #ab cotton1 and looks neat and handsome4 ,the following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to4 ,it is necessary to work this kind of work1 rather loose than otherwise1 as it is liable to cut1 if done over tight4 ,the size of the stitch depends1 of course1 upon that of the needle2 and1 therefore1 care should be taken1 to have them gauged4 ,if a needle will go into the slit1 opposite ,no4 #d1 but not into ,no4 #e1 then it is a ,no4 #d needle4 ,,sofa ,,pillow4--,work in six threads fleecy1 and with a good sized crochet needle2 work as follows4 ,for the first stripe1 commence with two rows of the same color2 the three next rows1 in different shades1 of a color that will contrast well with that of the two first2 the sixth row must be of a different color1 or it may be white4 ,the next five rows are to correspond1 reversing the colors and shades4 ,the second stripe is composed of seven rows3 the first1 three distinct shades of the same color2 the middle one1 a contrast2 and the other three1 the same shades as the first1 but reversed as before4 ,the third stripe is the same1 but1 of course1 the colors are different4 ,a white row in the middle of each stripe1 is1 in our opinion1 the best4 ,the fourth stripe is a repetition of the first1 omitting the color in the first two rows1 the fifth of the second1 and the sixth of the third4 ,the last stripe is to correspond exactly with the first4 ,,turkish ,,pattern1 ,,for ,a ,,table ,,cover4--,use a steel needle1 and six threads fleecy4 ,form the dividing line of two shades of the same color1 say claret1 and have four stripes1 namely1 white1 gold color1 blue1 and scarlet4 ,then1 on the white stripe1 work the pattern in two greens1 two scarlets1 two blues1 a brown1 and a yellow4 ,on the gold color1 in two blues and one claret1 white1 lilac1 and green4 ,on the blue1 in two scarlets1 two greens1 one drab1 white1 brown1 and orange4 ,and on the scarlet1 one green1 one white1 two blues1 a claret1 and a bright yellow4 ,we have merely given the colors in the above1 as a specimen1 and to assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement4 ,she can1 of course1 adopt any colors and shades she pleases2 and the more she employs her own thought and judgment1 the more original will her work appear4 ,a ,,plain ,,crochet ,,bag1 ,,in ,,silk4--,begin at the top with a chain1 of one hundred and fifty stitches4 ,the material to work with1 may be any kind of silk that is proper for the purpose1 and of any color that may be deemed desirable4 ,on this foundation1 a plain row is to be worked1 and then a row in two colors1 in two stitches of each alternately4 ,the second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern4 ,work one plain row1 and then work large stars1 in a color to contrast with the plain ground4 ,between the large stars1 work small ones1 in a different color4 ,one row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern2 and before commencing the second stripe1 repeat the row of two colors in two stitches of each4 ,the ground of the next stripe is to contrast highly with that of the former one4 ,the larger stars should also be well contrasted2 but1 all in the same stripe1 must be of the same color2 all the small stars should be alike4 ,the stripes are to be repeated successively1 until the bag is completed4 ,a ,,greek ,,cap1 ,,in ,,coarse ,,chenille4--,with a chain of six or eight stitches1 begin at the top1 and having united the ends1 work round and round1 in rows1 until it is eight inches across4 ,you must increase your stitches1 in each row1 so as to preserve the work flat4 ,work the stitches in open crochet1 and between every two rows1 it will be best to introduce a few plain lines1 in black and gold4 ,this cap is extremely elegant4 ,a ,,crochet ,,neck ,,chain4--,commence with fine plain stitches2 then put the needle through the back of the second1 and make one stitch plain4 ,by twisting the chain1 after every stitch1 you will find that one stitch appears to cross2 that stitch is the one to be next taken1 and crocheted4 ,a ,,plain ,,crochet ,,purse4--,this purse is made with middle-sized netting silk1 and is strong and durable4 ,a chain is to be made of one hundred and forty stitches1 of any color you prefer1 on which1 you are to crochet three rows plain in the same color4 ,then1 five rows1 in a color making a good contrast4 ,repeat these stripes as many times as are requisite1 and crochet up the sides4 ,draw up the ends1 and trim the purse4 ,we deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet1 as without engravings1 they would not be understood4 ,this kind of work is capable of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes2 but in almost all cases1 though easy of execution1 the patterns are not easy to be described in writing4 ,we have1 however1 done all that is required1 to afford an insight into this kind of needlework2 and have shewn that for purses1 bags1 caps1 neck chains1 c41 it can be readily brought into requisition4 ,much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of colors1 as on this1 almost the whole beauty of the work depends4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,tatting4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,stitches4 ,illustration ,,tatting ,,open ,,stitch4--,take your tatting needle1 and1 having threaded it with the appropriate material make a knot at the end4 ,in order to make the loops1 put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand1 and form also a loop round the second1 third and fourth fingers1 extending them for that purpose4 ,these loops are made by carrying the thread round the back of them1 bringing it to the fore finger again1 so as to pass over the knot4 ,in this position they must be held tightly down by the pressure of the thumb4 ,you will observe that the thumb and fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop1 but you are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction from the fore finger and thumb1 between the second and third fingers3 the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop1 up through the middle1 between the thread which is on the needle1 and the thread round the fingers4 ,you must be careful to have the thread 7on the needle7 between you and the needle1 after you have drawn it through4 ,from the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as possible1 leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make the stitch with the loop1 and not with that portion of the thread which is next the needle4 ,you are to withdraw the second finger1 and allow the loop round the fingers to form round the thread4 ,the fingers are then to be again inserted1 and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing it up to its proper place1 close to the thumb4 ,this will finish the stitch4 ,for the next1 cast the thread over the back part of the hand1 instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch1 and let the needle be inserted down through the finger loop1 between the first and second fingers2 then draw it up through between the two threads over the back part of the fingers1 and form the stitch with the second one1 as in the previous stitch4 ,you work the third stitch the same as the first1 only longer1 that it may form a long loop4 ,repeat the second stitch1 then the long loop2 and thus proceed until you have seven loops3 after this1 the thread is to be drawn up1 so as to form the scollop4 ,illustration ,,star ,,tatting4--,the material for this kind of work is bobbin1 such as is generally used for children's caps4 ,you have only to work six scollops and draw them up close1 so as to form a star4 ,when made with precision and regularity1 they present a neat appearance4 ,star tatting is well adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament4 ,illustration ,,common ,,tatting ,,edging4--,make the loops1 and work the first stitch as in the first pattern2 then work twenty stitches the same way to form the scollop4 ,when it is finished1 you must draw up the thread tight1 and then commence another4 ,if it has been properly done1 the scollop will draw freely4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,concluding ,,remarks4 ,in bringing the ,ladies' ,work-,table ,book to a close1 we cannot persuade ourselves to dismiss the subject1 without a word or two to our fair friends1 as to the use1 necessary to be made1 of all the useful or ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable them to acquire4 ,we should never1 for one moment1 suffer the utile to be absent from our thoughts3 she who has no definite aim in what she does1 can never have any good ground of hope1 that1 in her progress through life1 she can attain to excellence4 ,these remarks apply principally to that large class1 who are dependent upon exertion of some kind1 for the means of comfort and respectability1 in their respective stations4 ,but1 as those ladies1 whose circumstances render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of1 a matter of indifference1 a knowledge of them is1 by no means1 unnecessary4 ,in many ways indeed1 a lady1 blessed with affluence1 may render an acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful4 ,it is often the case that young persons are engaged in families1 whose education has been1 from some cause or other1 lamentably neglected4 ,in those cases1 the lady who feels her obligations1 and is actuated by a true ,christian spirit1 will consider herself as standing in the place of a mother to her humble dependents2 and1 under a deep sense of her high responsibilities1 will endeavor to improve1 and fit them1 by suitable and kindly-imparted instructions1 for the proper discharge of the duties of that station1 which it may be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill4 ,in this case1 how useful will the kind and careful mistress find a knowledge of that art1 which teaches the proper method of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family who1 however humble1 are desirous of securing the respect of the wise and the good1 by judicious economy1 and a neat and respectable appearance4 ,those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to the superintendence of our female charity schools1 will also find such knowledge extremely beneficial4 ,to those who are disposed to follow the example of the holy ,dorcas1 in providing garments for the deserving and destitute poor1 an acquaintance with plain needlework is indispensible2 and indeed1 it will1 in every walk of life1 be found useful to her who is1 by the animating love of the ,lord ,jesus1 disposed ,to seek the wretched out1 ,and court the offices of soft humanity4 ,another advantage may also be gained1 by a manifestation of the kindly solicitude for the improvement of domestics1 here pointed out4 ,in cases where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected1 it will be generally found that their religious and moral training has been equally uncared for4 ,let the ,christian lady evince a real desire to improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence1 and she will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the reception of instructions of a higher and still more important character4 ,hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly ,christian spirit4 ,we once had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of ,christ1 while those in whose service she was1 and two others1 highly respectable persons1 answered for her at the font4 ,this beautiful meeting together of the rich and the poor1 took place in one of the most splendid parish churches in ,england1 and left on our minds an impression which will never be effaced4 ,in the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary of the needle1 such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her assiduity1 taste1 and judgment4 ,we have sought to be concise1 without being obscure2 and to give plain directions1 without making our readers mere imitators1 or copyists4 ,one fault which is to be found in all the books on these subjects1 which we have seen1 we have carefully avoided2 that is1 the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the fabrication of each example given4 ,nothing can be more absurd1 and mischievous than this4 ,the young work-woman can only exercise her judgment1 to any extent1 in this department of her labors4 ,the various stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule2 because1 in most instances1 they can be performed in no other manner2 but in the choice of materials1 and colors1 she should have free scope3 here judgment1 taste1 and fancy1 should range untrammelled by rules and forms2 and yet this is rarely done1 because the lady is taught to rely upon her patterns1 and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty or propriety4 ,we see the effect of this1 in the sameness1 and monotonous appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work3 and we have endeavored to do our best1 to introduce a more correct taste and principle into this department of the elegant arts1 in which females are engaged4 ,we know that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen2 and we wish to see it expand1 as freely as the refreshing breeze1 that sweeps over our native hills4 ,we have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the needle can be applied1 and the high moral ends it is so well calculated to promote3 and if such be its importance1 then it will be readily admitted by all1 that he who has made the most improvements1 and produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument1 has conferred a real benefit upon his race4 ,we have a higher end in view1 than promoting the acquisition of accomplishments1 however elegant or pleasing4 ,we wish to direct the minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct1 to the immortal beauties of moral excellence4 ,these works may be made conducive1 in a high degree1 to the development of family affection1 and the promotion1 to a vast extent1 of the purposes of genuine charity1 benevolence1 and friendship4 ,but there is yet a higher kind of use1 to which we would apply them4 ,we would have the young lady1 who is becoming expert and clever at her needle to reflect1 as the beautiful fabric grows beneath her forming hand1 that her work1 and the power and skill to plan and execute it1 is an emanation of the ,immortal ,mind2 of that ,mind1 whose creative powers are a faint1 but legible transcript of the ,omnipotent ,wisdom of the ,deity4 ,this thought gives a permanency to what would1 in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud4 ,it is ,omnipotent ,wisdom and ,power1 which has contrived and executed all the beautiful wonders of creation2 and that ,wisdom and ,power were called into activity by ,omnipotent ,love4 ,we wish to impress this sublime truth upon the mind of our young readers1 because we wish them to place their ,heavenly ,father before them--as their pattern and example--in all that they take in hand2 and to remember that1 as ,he formed the universe by ,wisdom1 from ,love--so all their actions and elegant contrivances should be the result of judgment1 guided by affection--that they may thus become like their ,father1 who is in ,heaven4 ,indeed1 it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the development of moral goodness1 that they may become pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being4 ,we were not sent into this world to flutter through life1 like the gaudy butterfly1 only to be seen and admired4 ,we were designed to be useful to our fellow beings2 and to make all our powers and capabilities1 in some way or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time4 ,to this end1 we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention2 and1 in its attainment1 to exert every energy which they possess4 ,we wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose2 which will outlive the present hour4 ,but to do this1 the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul2 and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized1 and animated1 by the spirit of love4 ,thus1 and thus only1 can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good2 and such they will assuredly be found1 if practised from right motives1 and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important duties4 ,the young votaress of the needle1 of drawing1 or of music1 should ever bear in mind1 that the time employed in those pursuits1 will be accounted lost or improved1 by the impartial ,judge of all--just in proportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfish gratification1 or to minister to the development of an elevated moral character--generous and warm affections--and the cultivation of those virtues1 which1 as essentials of the ,christian character1 shall outlive the ravages of time1 and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a coming eternity4 ,in all then that the young lady aims to learn1 or to accomplish1 let her place a high and moral standard before her1 and resolve to render every transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state of being4 ,our various faculties and powers were not given us to be wasted1 but to be used to the honor of our ,creator--the comfort and welfare of those around us--and1 as a consequence of our faithful discharge of our several obligations1 conducive1 in an eminent degree1 to our happiness4 ,no mistake can be more fatal1 than an idea that1 for what we call trifles1 we shall have no account to render4 ,what we call trifles1 may be1 in their consequence1 both to ourselves and others1 the most important acts of our lives4 ,it is not by great events that our characters are formed2 but by the neglect or performance of our duties in that state of life1 into which the ,wisdom of our ,heavenly ,father has seen fit to call us4 ,to elevate the sufferings1 soothe the sorrows1 increase the comforts1 and enhance the joys of all around us1 should be the highest aim of a laudable ambition--and every endeavor should be most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends4 ,it is1 in fact1 only when we thus employ our various talents and capabilities1 that they are really useful1 in any other case1 they are only ministers to our personal pride1 and selfish gratification1 instead of becoming links in that golden chain1 by which the faithful performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of a crown of righteousness1 that fadeth not away4 ,let1 then1 the youthful female1 as she plies her needle1 or exercises her judgment or ingenuity1 in the choice of colors or materials1 or in the invention of new developments of creative genius1 ever remember to exercise those powers as a ,christian--let her cultivate1 in her inmost soul1 the conviction1 that all her skill and power is imparted from on high--and let her be careful to make all she does1 a sacrifice1 acceptable to her ,god1 by doing all in the spirit1 and under the influence of that sacred charity--that boundless benevolence--which ever rejoices1 in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of others1 and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time1 an endurance and a continuity1 that shall endure for ever4 ,,index4 ,algerine ,work1 #fi ,angular ,stitch1 #cc ,applique1 #hd1 #hi ,apron1 ,girl's1 #dj ----1 ,morning1 #dj ----1 ,vandyke1 #dj ---- for a young person1 #dj ,aprons1 #ch ----1 ,dress1 #ci ,armorial ,bearings1 #hc1 #hi ,baby's ,cap1 #aaa ---- ,hood1 #aab ---- ,shoe1 #aab ,barege ,knitting for ,shawls1 #aae ,basket ,stitch1 #ff1 #hh ,bathing ,gown1 #dj ,bead ,stitch1 #abg1 #ade ,bead ,work1 #hd ,beaufort ,star1 #ga ,beautiful ,fringe and ,border1 #aac ,bed-room ,linen1 #ed ,bee's ,stitch1 #aja ,berlin ,wire ,stitch1 #aja ,biassing1 #ce ,binding1 #ei ,biroche1 ,a1 #aaa ,blankets1 #ed ,border for a ,shawl1 #abd ,braces1 #he ,braiding1 #ei ,braid ,work1 #hd1 #hi ,brief ,description of ,wools1 #bb ,bustles1 #da ,button-hole ,stitch1 #ca ,cap ,border ,scollop1 #adj ,caps1 #da ,cashmere ,shawl1 #di ,cast off1 ,to1 #ajj ,cast on1 ,to1 #ih ,cast over1 ,to1 #ii ,chain ,stitch1 #cb1 #ajb ---- ---- on ,gathers1 #cd ,checked ,patterns1 #aae ,chenille ,embroidery1 #hj ,chess ,pattern1 #ga ,child's ,collar1 #da ,cloaks1 #db ,close ,stitch for ,waistcoats1 #aae ,comforter1 ,a1 #aac ,comforter1 ,another1 #aac ,common ,plait1 #aja ,common ,tatting ,edging1 #aee ,coral ,pattern1 #ce ,corner for a ,shawl1 #abb ,corners1 ,to fill up1 #fi ,cravats1 #db ,crochet ,edging1 for ,collars1 #adh ---- ---- for ,hdkfs41 #aej ---- ,neck ,chain1 #aeb ,cross ,stitch1 #fe ,crow's-foot ,stitch1 #ajb ,diagram1 #fa ,diamond ,netting1 #abh ---- ---- #e stitches1 #abh ,dice ,pattern1 #gb ---- ---- ,purse1 #ace ,dinner ,napkins1 #ef ,dividing ,line1 ,a1 #adf ,dotted ,knitting1 ,baby's shoe1 #aag ---- ,netting1 #abi ,double ,cross ,stitch1 #fe ---- ,diamond1 long stitch1 #gb ---- ,herring-boning1 #cd ---- ,knitting1 #ajc ---- ,nightcap1 #aag ---- ,open ,crochet1 #add ---- ,plait ,stitch1 #fi ---- ,stitch ,crochet1 #add ---- ,straight ,cross ,stitch1 #fe ,dressing ,table ,covers1 #ee ,dress ,shawl1 #di ,dutch ,common ,knitting1 #ajd ,edge ,stitch1 #ade ,elastic ,rib1 #aje ,embroidery1 #hh ---- in ,wool1 #hj ---- with ,silk1 #gi ,embossed ,diamond1 #ajd ---- ,hexagon ,stitch1 #ajd ,fancy ,bobbin ,edging1 #cd ---- ,button-hole ,stitch1 #ca ---- ,chain ,stitch1 #ca ---- ,herring-boning1 #cc ,fantail ,stitch1 #aje ,fasten on1 ,to1 #ajj ---- off1 ,to1 #adf ,feather ,stitch1 #fg ,french ,ground ,net1 #acj ---- ,stitch1 #aje ,frills1 #db ,frame1 to ,dress for ,cloth ,work1 #hb ----1 to ,dress for ,cross ,stitch1 #hb ----1 to ,dress for ,tent ,stitch1 #hc ,gathering1 ,double1 or ,puffing1 #cj ----1 #cj ,gem1 or ,set ,patterns1 #he ,gentlemen's ,belts1 #dc ---- ,braces1 #hi ---- ,collars1 #dc ---- ,fronts1 #dc ---- ,travelling ,cap1 #aah ---- ,waistcoats1 #he1 #hi ,german ,knitting1 #aje ---- ,pattern1 #gb1 #hh ,gobelin1 #he ---- ,stitch1 #ff ,grecian ,netting1 #acj ,greek ,cap1 coarse ,chenille1 #aeb ,habit ,shirt1 #aai ,half ,handkerchief1 #aah ,harlequin ,quilt1 with ,tufts1 #aai ,heart ,pattern1 #gc ,hemming1 #bi ----1 ,german1 #bi ,herring-bone ,bag ,stitch1 #ajf ---- ,purse1 #aah ,herring-boning1 #cc ,honeycombing1 #cf ,honeycomb ,mittens1 #acf ---- ,netting1 #aca ---- ----1 with two ,meshes1 #aca ----1 ,another kind1 #acj ---- ,stitch1 #ajf ,horse-shoe ,stitch1 #cd ,housemaid and ,kitchen ,linen1 #eg ,imitation ,net-work ,stitch1 #ajf ,indian ,scarf1 #di ,insertion1 ,crochet ,beading1 #aej ,instructions in ,grounding1 #ia ,irish ,diamond1 #gc ---- ,stitch1 #ff ,jelly ,bag1 #eh ,joining the ,threads1 #adf ,knee ,caps1 #aaf ,knit ,herring-bone ,stitch1 #ajg ,knitted ,footing1 #aag ---- ,fringe1 #aag ---- ,muff1 #aad ,knitting ,stitch1 #ii ,lace1 #gc1 #hh ---- ,wave ,stitch1 #ajg ,ladies' ,drawers1 #dc ---- ,flannel ,waistcoats1 #dd ---- ,night ,jackets1 #dd ---- ,purses1 #aci ---- ,walking ,shawls1 #ej ,landscapes1 #he ,leaf ,netting1 #acb ,long ,purse1 in ,points1 #ada ,loop ,stitch1 #ajj ,making ,buttons1 #fj ,maltese ,netting in ,spots1 #acc ,mantuamaker's ,hem1 #bi ,materials for ,plain ,needlework1 #ag ---- for ,embroidery1 #ba ---- for ,fancy ,needlework1 #bj ---- for ,knitting1 ,netting and ,crochet1 #ba ,marking1 #ei ,medallion ,pattern1 #ij ,mosaic ,work1 #hf1 #hi ,moss ,stitch1 #ajg ,mourning ,shawls1 #ej ,narrowing1 #ii ,necessary ,implements in ,crochet1 #bf ,necessary ,implements in ,fancy ,needlework1 #be ,necessary ,implements in ,knitting1 #be ,necessary ,implements in ,netting1 #be ,neck and ,pocket ,handkerchiefs1 #de ,net ,cravat1 #ada ---- ,scarf1 #ada ---- with ,points1 #acb ,netted ,bag1 with ,ring1 #ace ---- ,cuffs1 with ,silk and ,wool1 #acg ---- ,cuffs1 #acg ---- ,fringe1 #ach ---- ,opera ,cap1 #ach ---- ,scollop ,edging1 #aci ,night ,gowns1 #de ---- ,stockings1 #abb ,open ,cross ,stitch1 #ajh ---- ,crochet1 #adc ---- ,hem1 #ajg ---- ,work ,stockings1 #aba ,ornamental ,ladder ,stitch1 #ajh ,over ,shoe1 #aad ,pantry ,linen1 #ef ,pattern for a ,light ,scarf1 #abj ,patterns on ,canvas1 #hf ,pearl ,stitch1 #ii ,perforated ,card1 #hf1 #hi ,petticoat ,crochet ,edging1 #adi ,petticoats1 #df ----1 ,flannel1 #df ,pillow ,covers1 #ed ,pinafore1 #dg ,pincushion ,covers1 #ee ,pine ,apple ,purse1 #aae ---- ---- ,stitch1 #ajh ,piping1 #fj ,plain ,crochet1 #adc ---- ,crochet ,bag1 in ,silk1 #aea ---- ---- ,purse1 #aeb ---- ,double ,crochet1 #adc ---- ,knitted ,muffatees1 #abj ---- ---- ,gentleman's ,purse1 #aci ---- ,netted ,mittens1 #aci ---- ,netting1 #abf ---- ,open ,netting1 #acc ---- ---- ,stitch1 #aji ---- ---- ,elastic ,crochet1 #add ---- ,stitch ,open ,crochet1 #adc ---- ,scarf1 #dh ---- ,scollop1 #adj ,plaiting1 #fj ,pockets1 #dh ,point ,stitch1 #fh1 #hh ,porcupine ,stitch1 #aji ,princess ,royal1 #gd1 #hh ,pudding ,cloth1 #eh ,purse1 with ,china ,silk1 #ace ,queen ,stitch1 #fh ,queen's ,vandyke1 #fh ,quilts1 #ed ,raised ,embroidery1 #hj ---- ,stitch1 ,a1 #ade ---- ,work1 #ic ,raising1 #ii ,rib1 ,to1 #ii ,ribbon ,scarf1 #dh ,roman ,pattern1 #gd ,round ,netting1 #acc ,rough ,cast ,stitch1 #aaj ,row1 ,a1 #ii ,rug ,bordering1 #hg1 #hh ,running1 #bi ,russian ,pattern1 #gd ,scale of ,canvases1 #ba ,seam1 ,to1 #ii ,seam ,purse1 with ,beads1 #ace ,serpentine ,stitch1 #ce ,sewing and ,felling1 #bi ,shaded ,silk ,netting1 #abi ,sheets1 #ed ,shifts1 #ej ,shirts1 #ea ,single ,plait ,stitch1 #fh ,slip ,stitch1 #ajj ,socks1 #abb ,sofa ,pillow1 #aej ,star ,pattern1 #ij ---- ,tatting1 #aed ---- with ,eight ,points1 #aaf ,stitches in ,crochet1 #adb ,stitching1 #cj ,stitch1 ,to take in a1 #adg ----1 ,to increase or decrease a1 #ade ----1 ,to incr4 in ,crochet1 #adg ,stitches1 ,to cast on the ,loops or1 #ih ,stockings1 #abj ,straight ,cross ,stitch1 #fe ,strong ,knitted ,purse1 #aad ,suggestions as to ,patterns1 #gg ,table ,cloths1 #ef ---- ,linen1 #ef ,tatting1 ,open ,stitch1 #aec ,tent ,stitch1 #fd ,thread1 ,to bring forward a1 #ajj ----1 ,to carry on a1 in ,double ,crochet1 #adf ,towels1 #ee ,travelling ,shawl1 #ej ,treble ,open ,crochet1 #add ,true ,stitch1 #ade ,tucks1 #fj ,turkish ,pattern for a ,table ,cover1 #aea ,veils1 #eb ,velvet ,stitch1 #fi ,victoria ,pattern1 #ge ,wave ,pattern1 #ge ---- ,knitting1 #aaj ,welts1 #ajj ,whipping1 #ca ,windsor ,pattern1 #gf ,wire ,work1 #hg1 #hi ,working ,berlin ,pattern1 #ic ---- ,figures1 #hi1 #ib ,zephyr1 ,a1 #aad ,,the ,,end4 ,transcriber's ,note ,the following typographical errors were corrected4 iv human felicity changed to human felicity4 v fair one changed to fair one4 v then1 how1 to fabricate changed to then1 how to fabricate vi form and utilty changed to form and utility ix netting of a purse1 changed to netting of a purse4 #ah very difficult t changed to very difficult to #ai both sides1 ,this changed to both sides4 ,this #bj ,,materials ,,foe changed to ,,materials ,,for #ba ,knitting ,netting1 changed to ,knitting1 ,netting1 #bb than others changed to than others4 #bb ,wool4--,this changed to ,,wool4--,this #bb yarn1 for mitts1 changed to yarn1 for mitts4 #bd her to devise changed to her to devise4 #be ,tissue ,paper changed to ,tissue ,paper4 #bg extacy2 changed to extacy2 #bg native sky4 changed to native sky4 #bh principal stiches changed to principal stitches #bi thread with out changed to thread without #cj ,,gathering changed to ,,gathering4 #cj are gathered1 ,then changed to are gathered4 ,then #cc appropriate situations changed to appropriate situations4 #cd intricate to describle changed to intricate to describe #cf must take grest changed to must take great #ch visiter changed to visitor #da colico1 ore changed to calico1 are #dd ,,adies' ,,night ,,jackets4 changed to ,,ladies' ,,night ,,jackets4 #dh wrong1 side changed to wrong side #dh ,,plain ,,scarf changed to ,,plain ,,scarf4 #ea ,another meth d changed to ,another method #ee into the other1 changed to into the other4 #fj in the middle changed to in the middle4 #fj like a star changed to like a star4 #fd painting in oil1 changed to painting in oil4 #fe ,,cross ,,stitch changed to ,,cross ,,stitch4 #fe ,this is a stich changed to ,this is a stitch #ff arrangment changed to arrangement #fg same color changed to same color4 #gj unavailable repentance changed to unavailable repentance4 #ga increas-increasing changed to increasing #gb inprovement changed to improvement #gf is complete changed to is complete4 #gf ane xtremly changed to an extremely fn #gi-99 ,the footnote marker was missing on the footnote #hj ,,chenille ,,embroidery changed to ,,chenille ,,embroidery4 #ha perseverence changed to perseverance #hc restored to changed to resorted to #hd braided with ther changed to braided with their #he lavendar changed to lavender #hh ,,chapter ,x changed to ,,chapter ,x4 #hh considerable size changed to considerable size4 #hi assidously changed to assiduously #ic the1 first changed to the first #if forgotton changed to forgotten #if incovenience changed to inconvenience #ih ,lee41 ,m4 ,a1 changed to ,lee1 ,m4 ,a41 #ih first intoduction changed to first introduction #ih the means changed to the means1 #ii ,,pearl ,,stitch changed to ,,pearl ,,stitch4 #ajj ,,note1 in cas tingon changed to ,,note1 in casting on #ajb other three stiches changed to other three stitches #ajb that tbe pins changed to that the pins #ajc previous methods changed to previous methods4 #ajd stitches1 you choose changed to stitches you choose #ajd taking careto changed to taking care to #ajf loops1 and kniting changed to loops1 and knitting #ajg knit three siitches changed to knit three stitches #aaa preceeding changed to preceding #aab five rows o changed to five rows of #aac ancle changed to ankle #aac each stitch2 ,the changed to each stitch4 ,the #aad fringe and borber changed to fringe and border #aae knitting three stiches changed to knitting three stitches #aah when it ouccurs changed to when it occurs #abj ,,pattern ,,for ,a ,,light ,,scarf changed to ,,pattern ,,for ,a ,,light ,,scarf4 #abj generaly changed to generally #abb every other stich changed to every other stitch #abc ,eleventh row plain changed to ,eleventh row plain4 #abc make a siitch changed to make a stitch #abc knit two togteher changed to knit two together #abd twenty-seeond changed to twenty-second #abg bottom of the preceeding changed to bottom of the preceding #abh ,for the fouth changed to ,for the fourth #abi principal beauty changed to principal beauty4 #aca the end ,work changed to the end4 ,work #acd ,you every is missing a word1 probably work4 ,this change was not made in the text #acd succeding changed to succeeding #ace ninety-eight stiiches changed to ninety-eight stitches #acf net seven stiches changed to net seven stitches #acg double silk changed to double silk4 #acg to the whole1 changed to to the whole4 #adj loop ,net changed to loop4 ,net #adc can be be varied changed to can be varied #add each square1 changed to each square4 #ade back or the changed to back of the #ade loose in each changed to lose in each #ade ,,to ,,increase ,,or ,,decrease ,a ,,stitch4 changed to ,,to ,,increase ,,or ,,decrease ,a ,,stitch4 #ade conceal the the half changed to conceal the half #adf means meaking changed to means making #aej ,this is done it changed to ,this is done in #aeb same color changed to same color4 #aec ,take you tatting changed to ,take your tatting #aeg of a highe changed to of a higher #afj puposes of selfish changed to purposes of selfish #afa sooth changed to soothe #afc ,bedroom changed to ,bed-room #afc ---- on ,gathers changed to ---- ---- on ,gathers #afd ,tatting ,edging changed to ,tatting ,edging1 #afd ,fan-tail changed to ,fantail #afe ,travelling ,cap changed to ,travelling ,cap1 #afe ,imitation ,network changed to ,imitation ,net-work ,the ,index has been standardized to have a 1 between the index entry and the page number4 ,the following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation4 cross-way _/ crossway honey-comb _/ honeycomb indispensible _/ indispensable needle-woman _/ needlewoman needle-work _/ needlework net-work _/ network pin-cushion _/ pincushion vitalized _/ vitalised