,transcriber's ,note ,obvious typographical errors have been corrected4 ,a list of corrections is found at the end of the text4 ,inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained4 ,a list of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text4 ,oe ligatures have been expanded4 ,text surrounded with was printed in ,greek in the original book4 ,text surrounded with was originally printed in a black-letter typeface4 ,the following codes are used for characters that are not found in the character set used for this version of the book4 99499 ,asterism ,rx ,rx symbol ,harper's ,stereotype ,edition4 ,,the ,,cook',s ,,oracle2 ,,and ,,housekeeper',s ,,manual4 ,,containing ,receipts for ,cookery1 ,,and ,,directions ,,for ,,carving4 ,,also1 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,composing ,,the ,,most ,,simple ,,and ,,most ,,highly ,,finished ,,broths1 ,,gravies1 ,,soups1 ,,sauces1 ,,store ,,sauces1 ,,and ,,flavouring ,,essences2 ,,pastry1 ,,preserves1 ,,puddings1 ,,pickles1 c4 ,,with ,a ,,complete ,,system ,,of ,,cookery ,,for ,,catholic ,,families4 ,,the ,,quantity ,,of ,,each ,,article ,,is ,,accurately ,,stated ,,by ,,weight ,,and ,,measure2 ,,being ,,the ,,result ,,of ,,actual ,,experiments ,,instituted ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen ,,of ,,william ,,kitchiner1 ,m4,d4 ,,adapted ,,to ,,the ,,american ,,public ,,by ,a ,,medical ,,gentleman4 ,,from ,,the ,,last ,,london ,,edition4 ,new-,york3 ,,printed ,,by ,j4 ,j4 ,,harper1 #hb ,,cliff-,,st4 ,,sold ,,by ,,collins ,,and ,,hannay1 ,,collins ,,and ,,co41 ,g4 ,,and ,c4 ,,and ,h4 ,,carvill1 ,,william ,b4 ,,gilley1 ,e4 ,,bliss1 ,o4 ,a4 ,,roorbach1 ,,white1 ,,gallaher1 ,,and ,,white1 ,c4 ,s4 ,,francis1 ,,william ,,burgess1 ,,jr41 ,,and ,n4 ,b4 ,,holmes2--,,philadelphia1 ,e4 ,l4 ,,carey ,,and ,a4 ,,hart1 ,,and ,,john ,,grigg2--,,albany1 ,o4 ,,steele1 ,,and ,w4 ,c4 ,,little4 #ahcj4 ,,southern ,,district ,,of ,,new-,,york1 ss4 ,,be ,,it ,,remembered1 ,that on the #bjth day of ,november1 ,a4 ,d4 #ahbi1 in the fifty-fourth year of the independence of the ,united ,states of ,america1 ,j4 ,j4 ,,harper1 of the said district1 have deposited in this office the title of a book1 the right whereof they claim as ,proprietors1 in the words following1 to wit3 ,the ,cook's ,oracle1 and ,housekeeper's ,manual1 ,containing ,receipts for ,cookery1 and ,directions for ,carving2 also the ,art of ,composing the most simple and most highly finished ,broths1 ,gravies1 ,soups1 ,sauces1 ,store ,sauces1 and ,flavouring ,essences2 ,pastry1 ,preserves1 ,puddings1 ,pickles1 c4 ,with a ,complete ,system of ,cookery for ,catholic ,families4 ,the ,quantity of each ,article is accurately stated by ,weight and ,measure2 being the ,result of ,actual ,experiments instituted in the ,kitchen of ,william ,kitchiner1 ,m4,d4 ,adapted to the ,american ,public by a ,medical ,gentleman4 ,in conformity to the ,act of ,congress of the ,united ,states1 entitled ,an ,act for the encouragement of ,learning1 by securing the copies of maps1 charts1 and books1 to the authors and proprietors of such copies1 during the time therein mentioned4 ,and also to an ,act1 entitled ,an ,act1 supplementary to an ,act1 entitled an ,act for the encouragement of ,learning1 by securing the copies of maps1 charts1 and books1 to the authors and proprietors of such copies1 during the times therein mentioned1 and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing1 engraving1 and etching historical and other prints4 ,,frederick ,i4 ,,betts1 ,clerk of the ,southern ,district of ,new-,york4 ,,advertisement4 ,the publishers have now the pleasure of presenting to the ,american public1 ,dr4 ,kitchiner's justly celebrated work1 entitled ,the ,cook's ,oracle1 and ,housekeeper's ,manual1 with numerous and valuable improvements1 by a medical gentleman of this city4 ,the work contains a store of valuable information1 which1 it is confidently believed1 will not only prove highly advantageous to young and inexperienced housekeepers1 but also to more experienced matrons--to all1 indeed1 who are desirous of enjoying1 in the highest degree1 the good things which ,nature has so abundantly bestowed upon us4 ,the ,cook's ,oracle has been adjudged1 by connoisseurs in this country and in ,great ,britain1 to contain the best possible instructions on the subject of serving up1 beautifully and economically1 the productions of the water1 land1 and air1 in such a manner as to render them most pleasant to the eye1 and agreeable to the palate4 ,numerous notices1 in commendation of the work1 might be selected from respectable ,european journals2 but the mere fact1 that within twelve years1 seventy thousand copies of it have been purchased by the ,english public1 is sufficient evidence of its reception and merits4 ,,new-,,york1 ,december1 #ahbi4 ,,preface ,,to ,,the ,,seventh ,,edition4 ,the whole of this ,work has1 a seventh time1 been carefully revised2 but this last time ,i have found little to add1 and little to alter4 ,i have bestowed as much attention on each of the #ejj receipts as if the whole merit of the book was to be estimated entirely by the accuracy of my detail of one particular process4 ,the increasing demand for ,the ,cook's ,oracle1 amounting in #ahbd to the extraordinary number of upwards of #de1jjj1 has been stimulus enough to excite any man to submit to the most unremitting study2 and the ,editor has felt it as an imperative duty to exert himself to the utmost to render ,the ,cook's ,oracle a faithful narrative of all that is known of the various subjects it professes to treat4 ,,preface4 ,among the multitudes of causes which concur to impair health and produce disease1 the most general is the improper quality of our food3 this most frequently arises from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared3 yet strange1 passing strange1 this is the only one for which a remedy has not been sought2 few persons bestow half so much attention on the preservation of their own health1 as they daily devote to that of their dogs and horses4 ,the observations of the ,guardians of ,health respecting regimen1 c4 have formed no more than a catalogue of those articles of food1 which they have considered most proper for particular constitutions4 ,some medical writers have1 in good set terms1 warned us against the pernicious effects of improper diet2 but not one has been so kind as to take the trouble to direct us how to prepare food properly2 excepting only the contributions of ,count ,rumford1 who says1 in pages #af and #gj of his tenth ,essay1 however low and vulgar this subject has hitherto generally been thought to be--in what ,art or ,science could improvements be made that would more powerfully contribute to increase the comforts and enjoyments of mankind8 ,would to ,god6 that ,i could fix the public attention to this subject6 ,the ,editor has endeavoured to write the following receipts so plainly1 that they may be as easily understood in the kitchen as he trusts they will be relished in the dining-room2 and has been more ambitious to present to the ,public a ,work which will contribute to the daily comfort of all1 than to seem elaborately scientific4 ,the practical part of the philosophy of the kitchen is certainly not the most agreeable2 gastrology has to contend with its full share of those great impediments to all great improvements in scientific pursuits2 the prejudices of the ignorant1 and the misrepresentations of the envious4 ,the sagacity to comprehend and estimate the importance of any uncontemplated improvement1 is confined to the very few on whom nature has bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the sense which is to measure it2--the candour to make a fair report of it1 is still more uncommon2 and the kindness to encourage it cannot often be expected from those whose most vital interest it is to prevent the developement of that by which their own importance1 perhaps their only means of existence1 may be for ever eclipsed3 so1 as ,pope says1 how many are ,condemn'd in business or in arts to drudge1 ,without a rival1 or without a judge3 ,all fear1 none aid you1 and few understand4 ,improvements in ,agriculture and the ,breed of ,cattle have been encouraged by premiums4 ,those who have obtained them1 have been hailed as benefactors to society6 but the ,art of making use of these means of ameliorating ,life and supporting a healthful ,existence--,,cookery--has been neglected66 ,while the cultivators of the raw materials are distinguished and rewarded1 the attempt to improve the processes1 without which neither vegetable nor animal substances are fit for the food of man 7astonishing to say71 has been ridiculed1 as unworthy the attention of a rational being66 ,the most usefulvii-99 art--which the ,editor has chosen to endeavour to illustrate1 because nobody else has1 and because he knew not how he could employ some leisure hours more beneficially for mankind1 than to teach them to combine the utile with the dulce1 and to increase their pleasures1 without impairing their health1 or impoverishing their fortune1 has been for many years his favourite employment2 and ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,invigorating ,,and ,,prolonging ,,life ,,by ,,food1 ,c4 ,c4 and this ,work1 have insensibly become repositories for whatever observations he has made which he thought would make us ,,live ,,happy1 ,,and ,,live ,,long666 ,the ,editor has considered the ,,art ,,of ,,cookery1 not merely as a mechanical operation1 fit only for working cooks1 but as the ,analeptic part of the ,art of ,physic4 ,how best the fickle fabric to support ,of mortal man2 in healthful body how ,a healthful mind the longest to maintain1 7,,armstrong17 is an occupation neither unbecoming nor unworthy philosophers of the highest class3 such only can comprehend its importance2 which amounts to no less1 than not only the enjoyment of the present moment1 but the more precious advantage of improving and preserving health1 and prolonging life1 which depend on duly replenishing the daily waste of the human frame with materials pregnant with nutriment and easy of digestion4 ,if medicine be ranked among those arts which dignify their professors1 cookery may lay claim to an equal1 if not a superior1 distinction2 to prevent diseases is surely a more advantageous art to mankind than to cure them4 ,physicians should be good cooks1 at least in theory4--,dr4 ,,mandeville on ,hypochondriasis1 p4 #caf4 ,the learned ,dr4 ,,arbuthnot observes1 in page #c of the preface to his ,essay on ,aliment1 that the choice and measure of the materials of which our body is composed1 what we take daily by pounds1 is at least of as much importance as what we take seldom1 and only by grains and spoonfuls4 ,those in whom the organ of taste is obtuse1 or who have been brought up in the happy habit of being content with humble fare1 whose health is so firm1 that it needs no artificial adjustment2 who1 with the appetite of a cormorant1 have the digestion of an ostrich1 and eagerly devour whatever is set before them without asking any questions about what it is1 or how it has been prepared--may perhaps imagine that the ,editor has sometimes been rather over-much refining the business of the kitchen4 ,where ignorance is bliss1 'tis folly to be wise4 ,but as few are so fortunate as to be trained up to understand how well it is worth their while to cultivate such habits of ,spartan forbearance1 we cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome precepts1 in a higher degree1 than by disarming luxury of its sting1 and making the refinements of ,modern ,cookery minister not merely to sensual gratification1 but at the same time support the substantial excitement of mens sana in corpore sano4 ,delicate and nervous invalids1 who have unfortunately a sensitive palate1 and have been accustomed to a luxurious variety of savoury sauces1 and highly seasoned viands2 those who1 from the infirmity of age1 are become incapable of correcting habits created by absurd indulgence in youth1 are entitled to some consideration2 and1 for their sake1 the ,elements of ,opsology are explained in the most intelligent manner2 and ,i have assisted the memory of young cooks1 by annexing to each dish the various sauces which usually accompany it1 referring to their numbers in the work4 ,some idle idiots have remarked to the ,author1 that there were really so many references from one receipt to another1 that it is exceedingly troublesome indeed2 they are directed sometimes to turn to half a dozen numbers3 this is quite true4 ,if the ,author had not adopted this plan of reference1 his book1 to be equally explicit1 must have been ten times as big2 his object has been to give as much information as possible in as few pages1 and for as few pence1 as possible4 ,by reducing culinary operations to something like a certainty1 invalids will no longer be entirely indebted to chance1 whether they shall recover and live long1 and comfortably1 or speedily die of starvation in the midst of plenty4 ,these rules and orders for the regulation of the business of the kitchen have been extremely beneficial to the ,editor's own health and comfort4 ,he hopes they will be equally so to others3 they will help those who enjoy health to preserve it2 teach those who have delicate and irritable stomachs how to keep them in good temper2 and1 with a little discretion1 enable them to indulge occasionally1 not only with impunity1 but with advantage1 in all those alimentary pleasures which a rational epicure can desire4 ,there is no question more frequently asked1 or which a medical man finds more difficulty in answering1 to the satisfaction of himself and his patient1 than--,what do you wish me to eat8 ,the most judicious choice of aliment will avail nothing1 unless the culinary preparation of it be equally judicious4 ,how often is the skill of a pains-taking physician counteracted by want of corresponding attention to the preparation of food2 and the poor patient1 instead of deriving nourishment1 is distressed by indigestion6 ,,parmentier1 in his ,code ,pharmaceutique1 has given a chapter on the preparation of food3 some of the following receipts are offered as an humble attempt to form a sort of ,appendix to the ,pharmacopoeia1 and like pharmaceutic prescriptions1 they are precisely adjusted by weight and measure4 ,the author of a cookery book1 first published in #ahbd1 has claimed this act of industry of mine as his own original invention2 the only notice ,i shall take of his pretensions is to say1 that the first edition of ,the ,cook's ,oracle appeared in #ahag4 ,by ordering such receipts of the ,cook's ,oracle as appear adapted to the case1 the recovery of the patient and the credit of the physician1 as far as relates to the administration of aliment1 need no longer depend on the discretion of the cook4 ,for instance3 ,mutton ,broth1 ,no4 #dij1 or ,no4 #efd2 ,toast and ,water1 ,no4 #dfc2 ,water ,gruel1 ,no4 #egb2 ,beef ,tea1 ,no4 #efc2 and ,portable ,soup1 ,no4 #beb4 ,this concentrated ,essence of ,meat will be found a great acquisition to the comfort of the army1 the navy1 the traveller1 and the invalid4 ,by dissolving half an ounce of it in half a pint of hot water1 you have in a few minutes half a pint of good ,broth for three halfpence4 ,the utility of such accurate and precise directions for preparing food1 is to travellers incalculable2 for1 by translating the receipt1 any person may prepare what is desired as perfectly as a good ,english cook4 ,he has also circumstantially detailed the easiest1 least expensive1 and most salubrious methods of preparing those highly finished soups1 sauces1 ragots1 and piquante relishes1 which the most ingenious officers of the mouth have invented for the amusement of thorough-bred grands gourmands4 ,it has been his aim to render food acceptable to the palate1 without being expensive to the purse1 or offensive to the stomach2 nourishing without being inflammatory1 and savoury without being surfeiting2 constantly endeavouring to hold the balance equal1 between the agreeable and the wholesome1 the epicure and the economist4 ,he has not presumed to recommend one receipt that has not been previously and repeatedly proved in his own kitchen1 which has not been approved by the most accomplished cooks2 and has1 moreover1 been eaten with unanimous applause by a ,committee of ,taste1 composed of some of the most illustrious gastropholists of this luxurious metropolis4 ,the ,editor has been materially assisted by ,mr4 ,henry ,osborne1 the excellent cook to the late ,sir ,joseph ,banks2 that worthy ,president of the ,royal ,society was so sensible of the importance of the subject the ,editor was investigating1 that he sent his cook to assist him in his arduous task2 and many of the receipts in this edition are much improved by his suggestions and corrections4 ,see ,no4 #efj4 ,this is the only ,english ,cookery ,book which has been written from the real experiments of a housekeeper for the benefit of housekeepers2 which the reader will soon perceive by the minute attention that has been employed to elucidate and improve the ,art of ,plain ,cookery2 detailing many particulars and precautions1 which may at first appear frivolous1 but which experience will prove to be essential3 to teach a common cook how to provide1 and to prepare1 common food so frugally1 and so perfectly1 that the plain every-day family fare of the most economical housekeeper1 may1 with scarcely additional expense1 or any additional trouble1 be a satisfactory entertainment for an epicure or an invalid4 ,by an attentive consideration of the ,rudiments of ,cookery1 and the respective receipts1 the most ignorant novice in the business of the kitchen1 may work with the utmost facility and certainty of success1 and soon become a good cook4 ,will all the other books of cookery that ever were printed do this8 ,to give his readers an idea of the immense labour attendant upon this ,work1 it may be only necessary for the ,author to state1 that he has patiently pioneered through more than two hundred cookery books before he set about recording these results of his own experiments6 ,the table of the most economical family may1 by the help of this book1 be entertained with as much elegance as that of a sovereign prince4 ,,london1 #ahbi4 ,,footnotes3 vii-99 ,the only test of the utility of knowledge1 is its promoting the happiness of mankind4--,dr4 ,stark on ,diet1 p4 #ij4 ,,contents4 ,page ,,preface v ---- to ,seventh ,edition iv ,,introduction #ae ,culinary ,curiosities #cb ,invitations to ,dinner #cf ,carving #dc ,friendly ,advice to ,cooks #de ,table of ,weights1 c4 #fe ,,rudiments ,,of ,,cookery4 ,,chapter #a4 ,boiling #ff ---- ,baking #gb ---- #b4 ,roasting #gd ---- #c4 ,frying #hj ---- #d4 ,broiling #hb ---- #e4 ,vegetables #hc ---- #f4 ,fish #hf ,fish ,sauces #hh ---- #g4 ,broths and ,soups #hi ---- #h4 ,gravies and ,sauces #ajj ---- #i4 ,made ,dishes #ajf ,receipts #ajh ,marketing ,tables #cee ,,appendix4 ,pastry1 ,confectionery1 ,preserves1 c4 #cfj ,bread1 c4 #cij ,observations on ,puddings and ,pies #cib ,pickles #cih ,various useful ,family ,receipts #dje ,observations on ,carving #dji ,index #dba ,,introduction4 ,the following receipts are not a mere marrowless collection of shreds and patches1 and cuttings and pastings1 but a bon fide register of practical facts1--accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued or evaporated by the igniferous terrors of a roasting fire in the dog-days1--in defiance of the odoriferous and calefacient repellents of roasting1 boiling1 frying1 and broiling2--moreover1 the author has submitted to a labour no preceding cookery-book-maker1 perhaps1 ever attempted to encounter1--having eaten each receipt before he set it down in his book4 ,they have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently well-educated palate1 and a rather fastidious stomach3--perhaps this certificate of the reception of the respective preparations1 will partly apologize for the book containing a smaller number of them than preceding writers on this gratifying subject have transcribed--for the amusement of every man's master1 the ,,stomach4#ae-99 ,numerous as are the receipts in former books1 they vary little from each other1 except in the name given to them2 the processes of cookery are very few3 ,i have endeavoured to describe each1 in so plain and circumstantial a manner1 as ,i hope will be easily understood1 even by the amateur1 who is unacquainted with the practical part of culinary concerns4 ,,old ,,housekeepers may think ,i have been tediously minute on many points which may appear trifling3 my predecessors seem to have considered the ,,rudiments of ,,cookery quite unworthy of attention4 ,these little delicate distinctions constitute all the difference between a common and an elegant table1 and are not trifles to the ,,young ,,housekeepers who must learn them either from the communication of others or blunder on till their own slowly accumulating and dear-bought experience teaches them4 ,a wish to save time1 trouble and money to inexperienced housekeepers and cooks1 and to bring the enjoyments and indulgences of the opulent within reach of the middle ranks of society1 were my motives for publishing this book4 ,i could accomplish it only by supposing the reader 7when he first opens it7 to be as ignorant of cookery as ,i was1 when ,i first thought of writing on the subject4 ,i have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow-creatures3 by a careful attention to the directions herein given1 the most ignorant may easily learn to prepare food1 not only in an agreeable and wholesome1 but in an elegant and economical manner4 ,this task seems to have been left for me2 and ,i have endeavoured to collect and communicate1 in the clearest and most intelligible manner1 the whole of the heretofore abstruse mysteries of the culinary art1 which are herein1 ,i hope1 so plainly developed1 that the most inexperienced student in the occult art of cookery1 may work from my receipts with the utmost facility4 ,i was perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty of teaching those who are entirely unacquainted with the subject1 and of explaining my ideas effectually1 by mere receipts1 to those who never shook hands with a stewpan4 ,in my anxiety to be readily understood1 ,i have been under the necessity of occasionally repeating the same directions in different parts of the book2 but ,i would rather be censured for repetition than for obscurity1 and hope not to be accused of affectation1 while my intention is perspicuity4 ,our neighbours of ,france are so justly famous for their skill in the affairs of the kitchen1 that the adage says1 ,as many ,frenchmen as many cooks3 surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious wines1 and seducing liqueurs offering every temptation to render drunkenness delightful1 yet a tippling ,frenchman is a rara avis4 ,they know how so easily to keep life in sufficient repair by good eating1 that they require little or no screwing up with liquid stimuli4 ,this accounts for that toujours gai1 and happy equilibrium of the animal spirits which they enjoy with more regularity than any people3 their elastic stomachs1 unimpaired by spirituous liquors1 digest vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable1 by cooking it sufficiently1--wisely contriving to get half the work of the stomach done by fire and water1 till ,the tender morsels on the palate melt1 ,and all the force of cookery is felt4 ,see ,nos4 #e and #bch1 c4 ,the cardinal virtues of cookery1 ,,cleanliness1 ,,frugality1 ,,nourishment1 ,,and ,,palatableness1 preside over each preparation2 for ,i have not presumed to insert a single composition1 without previously obtaining the imprimatur of an enlightened and indefatigable ,,committee ,,of ,,taste1 7composed of thorough-bred ,,grands ,,gourmands of the first magnitude17 whose cordial co-operation ,i cannot too highly praise2 and here do ,i most gratefully record the unremitting zeal they manifested during their arduous progress of proving the respective recipes3 they were so truly philosophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wear and tear of teeth and stomach1 that their labour appeared a pleasure to them4 ,their laudable perseverance has enabled me to give the inexperienced amateur an unerring guide how to excite as much pleasure as possible on the palate1 and occasion as little trouble as possible to the principal viscera1 and has hardly been exceeded by those determined spirits who lately in the ,polar expedition braved the other extreme of temperature1 c4 in spite of whales1 bears1 icebergs1 and starvation4 ,every attention has been paid in directing the proportions of the following compositions2 not merely to make them inviting to the appetite1 but agreeable and useful to the stomach--nourishing without being inflammatory1 and savoury without being surfeiting4 ,i have written for those who make nourishment the chief end of eating1#ag-99 and do not desire to provoke appetite beyond the powers and necessities of nature2 proceeding1 however1 on the purest epicurean principles of indulging the palate as far as it can be done without injury or offence to the stomach1 and forbidding#ah-99 nothing but what is absolutely unfriendly to health4 ----,that which is not good1 is not delicious ,to a well-govern'd and wise appetite4--,,milton4 ,this is by no means so difficult a task as some gloomy philosophers 7uninitiated in culinary science7 have tried to make the world believe2 who seem to have delighted in persuading you1 that every thing that is nice must be noxious1 and that every thing that is nasty is wholesome4 ,how charming is divine philosophy8 ,not harsh1 and crabbed1 as dull fools suppose1 ,but musical as is ,apollo's lute1 ,and a perpetual feast of nectar'd sweets1 ,where no crude surfeit reigns4--,,milton4 ,worthy ,william ,shakspeare declared he never found a philosopher who could endure the toothache patiently3--the ,editor protests that he has not yet overtaken one who did not love a feast4 ,those cynical slaves who are so silly as to suppose it unbecoming a wise man to indulge in the common comforts of life1 should be answered in the words of the ,french philosopher4 ,hey--what1 do you philosophers eat dainties8 said a gay ,marquess4 ,do you think1 replied ,,descartes1 that ,god made good things only for fools8 ,every individual1 who is not perfectly imbecile and void of understanding1 is an epicure in his own way4 ,the epicures in boiling of potatoes are innumerable4 ,the perfection of all enjoyment depends on the perfection of the faculties of the mind and body2 therefore1 the temperate man is the greatest epicure1 and the only true voluptuary4 ,,the ,,pleasures ,,of ,,the ,,table have been highly appreciated and carefully cultivated in all countries and in all ages2#ai-99 and in spite of all the stoics1 every one will allow they are the first and the last we enjoy1 and those we taste the oftenest1--above a thousand times in a year1 every year of our lives6 ,,the ,,stomach is the mainspring of our system4 ,if it be not sufficiently wound up to warm the heart and support the circulation1 the whole business of life will1 in proportion1 be ineffectively performed3 we can neither think with precision1 walk with vigour1 sit down with comfort1 nor sleep with tranquillity4 ,there would be no difficulty in proving that it influences 7much more than people in general imagine7 all our actions3 the destiny of nations has often depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of a prime minister4#ai- ,see a very curious anecdote in the memoirs of ,,count ,,zinzendorff in ,dodsley's ,annual ,register for #agfb4 #c;d edition1 p4 #cb4 ,the philosopher ,pythagoras seems to have been extremely nice in eating2 among his absolute injunctions to his disciples1 he commands them to abstain from beans4 ,this ancient sage has been imitated by the learned who have discoursed on this subject since1 who are liberal of their negative1 and niggardly of their positive precepts--in the ratio1 that it is easier to tell you not to do this1 than to teach you how to do that4 ,our great ,english moralist ,dr4 ,s4 ,,johnson1 his biographer ,boswell tells us1 was a man of very nice discernment in the science of cookery1 and talked of good eating with uncommon satisfaction4 ,some people1 said he1 have a foolish way of not minding1 or pretending not to mind1 what they eat2 for my part1 ,i mind my belly very studiously and very carefully1 and ,i look upon it that he who does not mind his belly1 will hardly mind any thing else4 ,the ,dr4 might have said1 cannot mind any thing else4 ,the energy of our ,,brains is sadly dependent on the behaviour of our ,,bowels4#bj-99 ,those who say1 ',tis no matter what we eat or what we drink1 may as well say1 ',tis no matter whether we eat1 or whether we drink4 ,the following anecdotes ,i copy from ,boswell's life of ,johnson4 ,johnson4--,i could write a better book of cookery than has ever yet been written2 it should be a book on philosophical principles4 ,i would tell what is the best butcher's meat1 the proper seasons of different vegetables1 and then1 how to roast1 and boil1 and to compound4 ,dilly4--,mrs4 ,glasse's cookery1 which is the best1 was written by ,dr4 ,hill4 ,johnson4--,well1 ,sir--this shows how much better the subject of cookery#bj- may be treated by a philosopher2#bj- but you shall see what a book of cookery ,i shall make1 and shall agree with ,mr4 ,dilly for the copyright4 ,miss ,seward4--,that would be ,hercules with the distaff indeed6 ,johnson4--,no1 madam2 women can spin very well1 but they cannot make a good book of cookery4 ,see vol4 iii4 p4 #caa4 ,mr4 ,b4 adds1 ,i never knew a man who relished good eating more than he did3 when at table1 he was totally absorbed in the business of the moment3 nor would he1 unless in very high company1 say one word1 or even pay the least attention to what was said by others1 until he had satisfied his appetite4 ,the peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those of his character3 luxury and intemperance are relative terms1 depending on other circumstances than mere quantity and quality4 ,nature gave him an excellent palate1 and a craving appetite1 and his intense application rendered large supplies of nourishment absolutely necessary to recruit his exhausted spirits4 ,the fact is1 this great man had found out that animal and intellectual vigour1#ba-99 are much more entirely dependent upon each other than is commonly understood2 especially in those constitutions whose digestive and chylopoietic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune1 or absorb the pabulum vit indolently and imperfectly3 with such1 it is only now and then that the sensorium commune vibrates with the full tone of accurately considerative1 or creative energy4 ,his favourite dainties were1 a leg of pork boiled till it dropped from the bone1 a veal-pie1 with plums and sugar1 or the outside cut of a salt buttock of beef4 ,with regard to drink1 his liking was for the strongest1 as it was not the flavour1 but the effect that he desired4 ,mr4 ,smale's ,account of ,dr4 ,johnson's ,journey into ,wales1 #ahaf1 p4 #agd4 ,thus does the ,,health always1 and very often the ,,life of invalids1 and those who have weak and infirm ,,stomachs1 depend upon the care and skill of the ,,cook4 ,our forefathers were so sensible of this1 that in days of yore no man of consequence thought of making a day's journey without taking his ,,magister ,,coquorum with him4 ,the rarity of this talent in a high degree is so well understood1 that besides very considerable pecuniary compensation1 his majesty's first and second cooks#bb-99 are now esquires by their office4 ,we have every reason to suppose they were persons of equal dignity heretofore4 ,in ,dr4 ,pegge's ,forme of ,cury1 #hvo4 ,london1 #aghj1 we read1 that when ,cardinal ,otto1 the ,pope's legate1 was at ,oxford1 ,a4 ,d4 #abdh1 his brother officiated as ,,magister ,,coquin4 ,this important post has always been held as a situation of high trust and confidence2 and the ,,magnus ,,coquus1 ,anglic1 the ,master ,kitchener1 has1 time immemorial1 been an officer of considerable dignity in the palaces of princes4 ,the cook in ,,plautus 7pseudol7 is called ,hominum servatorem1 the preserver of mankind2 and by ,,mercier un mdecin qui gurit radicalement deux maladies mortelles1 la faim et la soif4 ,the ,norman conqueror ,,william bestowed several portions of land on these highly-favoured domestics1 the ,,coquorum ,,pr,,positus1 and ,,coquus ,,regius2 a manor was bestowed on ,robert ,argyllon the ,,grand ,,queux1 to be held by the following service4 ,see that venerable record1 the doomsday book4 ,robert ,argyllon holdeth one carucate of land in ,addington in the county of ,surrey1 by the service of making one mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our ,lord the ,,king1 on the day of his coronation1 called ,de la ,groute1 i4 e4 a kind of plum-porridge1 or water-gruel with plums in it4 ,this dish is still served up at the royal table at coronations1 by the ,lord of the said manor of ,addington4 ,at the coronation of ,king ,george ,,iv41 ,court of ,claims1 ,july #ab1 #ahbj3 ,the petition of the ,archbishop of ,,canterbury1 which was presented by ,sir ,g4 ,nayler1 claiming to perform the service of presenting a dish of ,de la ,groute to the ,king at the banquet1 was considered by the ,court1 and decided to be allowed4 ,a good dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life2 and as the practice of cookery is attended with so many discouraging difficulties1#bb- so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances1 and even dangers1 we ought to have some regard for those who encounter them to procure us pleasure1 and to reward their attention by rendering their situation every way as comfortable and agreeable as we can4 ,he who preaches integrity to those in the kitchen1 7see ,advice to ,cooks17 may be permitted to recommend liberality to those in the parlour2 they are indeed the sources of each other4 ,depend upon it1 ,true self-love and social are the same2 ,do as you would be done by3 give those you are obliged to trust every inducement to be honest1 and no temptation to play tricks4 ,when you consider that a good servant eats#bc-99 no more than a bad one1 how much waste is occasioned by provisions being dressed in a slovenly and unskilful manner1 and how much a good cook 7to whom the conduct of the kitchen is confided7 can save you by careful management1 no housekeeper will hardly deem it an unwise speculation 7it is certainly an amiable experiment71 to invite the honesty and industry of domestics1 by setting them an example of liberality--at least1 show them1 that ,according to their pains will be their gains4 ,avoid all approaches towards familiarity2 which1 to a proverb1 is accompanied by contempt1 and soon breaks the neck of obedience4 ,a lady gave us the following account of the progress of a favourite4 ,the first year1 she was an excellent servant2 the second1 a kind mistress2 the third1 an intolerable tyrant2 at whose dismissal1 every creature about my house rejoiced heartily4 ,however1 servants are more likely to be praised into good conduct1 than scolded out of bad4 ,always commend them when they do right4 ,to cherish the desire of pleasing in them1 you must show them that you are pleased3-- ,be to their faults a little blind1 ,and to their virtues very kind4 ,by such conduct1 ordinary servants may be converted into good ones3 few are so hardened1 as not to feel gratified when they are kindly and liberally treated4 ,it is a good maxim to select servants not younger than ,,thirty3--before that age1 however comfortable you may endeavour to make them1 their want of experience1 and the hope of something still better1 prevents their being satisfied with their present state2 after1 they have had the benefit of experience3 if they are tolerably comfortable1 they will endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master1 for fear they may change for the worse4 ,life may indeed be very fairly divided into the seasons of ,,hope and ,,fear4 ,in ,,youth1 we hope every thing may be right3 in ,,age1 we fear every thing will be wrong4 ,do not discharge a good servant for a slight offence3-- ,bear and forbear1 thus preached the stoic sages1 ,and in two words1 include the sense of pages4--,,pope4 ,,human ,,nature ,,is ,,the ,,same ,,in ,,all ,,stations3 if you can convince your servants that you have a generous and considerate regard for their health and comfort1 why should you imagine that they will be insensible to the good they receive8 ,impose no commands but what are reasonable1 nor reprove but with justice and temper3 the best way to ensure which is1 never to lecture them till at least one day after they have offended you4 ,if they have any particular hardship to endure in your service1 let them see that you are concerned for the necessity of imposing it4 ,if they are sick1 remember you are their patron as well as their master3 remit their labour1 and give them all the assistance of food1 physic1 and every comfort in your power4 ,tender assiduity about an invalid is half a cure2 it is a balsam to the mind1 which has a most powerful effect on the body1 soothes the sharpest pains1 and strengthens beyond the richest cordial4 ,ye who think that to protect and encourage virtue is the best preventive from vice1 reward your female servants liberally4 ,,charity ,,should ,,begin ,,at ,,home4 ,prevention is preferable to cure--but ,i have no objection to see your names ornamenting the lists of subscribers to foundling hospitals and female penitentiaries4#be-99 ,gentle reader1 for a definition of the word charity1 let me refer you to the #acth ,chapter of ,st4 ,paul's ,first ,epistle to the ,corinthians4 ,to say nothing of the deleterious vapours and pestilential exhalations of the charcoal1 which soon undermine the health of the heartiest1 the glare of a scorching fire1 and the smoke so baneful to the eyes and the complexion1 are continual and inevitable dangers3 and a cook must live in the midst of them1 as a soldier on the field of battle surrounded by bullets1 and bombs1 and ,,congreve',s rockets2 with this only difference1 that for the first1 every day is a fighting day1 that her warfare is almost always without glory1 and most praiseworthy achievements pass not only without reward1 but frequently without thanks3 for the most consummate cook is1 alas6 seldom noticed by the master1 or heard of by the guests2 who1 while they are eagerly devouring his turtle1 and drinking his wine1 care very little who dressed the one1 or sent the other4--,almanach des ,gourmands4 ,this observation applies especially to the ,,second ,,cook1 or first kitchen maid1 in large families1 who have by far the hardest place in the house1 and are worse paid1 and truly verify the old adage1 the more work1 the less wages4 ,if there is any thing right1 the cook has the praise--when there is any thing wrong1 as surely the kitchen maid has the blame4 ,be it known1 then1 to honest ,,john ,,bull1 that this humble domestic is expected by the cook to take the entire management of all ,,roasts1 ,,boils1 ,,fish1 and ,,vegetables2 i4 e4 the principal part of an ,englishman's dinner4 ,the master1 who wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table regularly well served in the best style1 must treat his cook as his friend--watch over her health#bf-99 with the tenderest care1 and especially be sure her taste does not suffer from her stomach being deranged by bilious attacks4 ,besides understanding the management of the spit1 the stewpan1 and the rolling-pin1 a ,,complete ,,cook must know how to go to market1 write legibly1 and keep accounts accurately4 ,in well-regulated private families the most convenient custom seems to be1 that the cook keep a house-book1 containing an account of the miscellaneous articles she purchases2 and the butcher's1 baker's1 butterman's1 green-grocer's1 fishmonger's1 milkman's1 and washing bills are brought in every ,monday2 these it is the duty of the cook to examine1 before she presents them to her employer every ,tuesday morning to be discharged4 ,the advantage of paying such bills weekly is incalculable3 among others the constant check it affords against any excess beyond the sum allotted for defraying them1 and the opportunity it gives of correcting increase of expense in one week by a prudent retrenchment in the next4 ,if you would live even with the world1 calculate your expenses at half your income--if you would grow rich1 at one-third4 ,it is an excellent plan to have a table of rules for regulating the ordinary expenses of the family1 in order to check any innovation or excess which otherwise might be introduced unawares1 and derange the proposed distribution of the annual revenue4 ,to understand the economy of household affairs is not only essential to a woman's proper and pleasant performance of the duties of a wife and a mother1 but is indispensable to the comfort1 respectability1 and general welfare of all families1 whatever be their circumstances4 ,the editor has employed some leisure hours in collecting practical hints for instructing inexperienced housekeepers in the useful ,art of providing comfortably for a family2 which is displayed so plainly and so particularly1 that a young lady may learn the delectable arcana of domestic affairs1 in as little time as is usually devoted to directing the position of her hands on a piano-forte1 or of her feet in a quadrille--this will enable her to make the cage of matrimony as comfortable as the net of courtship was charming4 ,for this purpose he has contrived a ,housekeeper's ,leger1 a plain and easy plan of keeping accurate accounts of the expenses of housekeeping1 which1 with only one hour's attention in a week1 will enable you to balance all such accounts with the utmost exactness2 an acceptable acquisition to all who admit that order and economy are the basis of comfort and independence4 ,it is almost impossible for a cook in a large family1 to attend to the business of the kitchen with any certainty of perfection1 if employed in other household concerns4 ,it is a service of such importance1 and so difficult to perform even tolerably well1 that it is sufficient to engross the entire attention of one person4 ,if we take a review of the qualifications which are indispensable in that highly estimable domestic1 a ,,good ,,cook1 we shall find that very few deserve that name4#bg-99 ,the majority of those who set up for professors of this art are of mean ability1 selfish1 and pilfering every thing they can2 others are indolent and insolent4 ,those who really understand their business 7which are by far the smallest number71 are too often either ridiculously saucy1 or insatiably thirsty2 in a word1 a good subject of this class is a rara avis indeed6 ,god sends meat1--who sends cooks8#bh-99 the proverb has long saved us the trouble of guessing4 ,vide ,almanach des ,gourmands1 p4 #hc4 ,of what value then is not this book1 which will render every person of common sense a good cook in as little time as it can be read through attentively6 ,if the masters and mistresses of families will sometimes condescend to make an amusement of this art1 they will escape numberless disappointments1 c4 which those who will not1 must occasionally inevitably suffer1 to the detriment of both their health and their fortune4 ,i did not presume to offer any observations of my own1 till ,i had read all that ,i could find written on the subject1 and submitted 7with no small pains7 to a patient and attentive consideration of every preceding work1 relating to culinary concerns1 that ,i could meet with4 ,these books vary very little from each other2 except in the preface1 they are ,like in all else as one egg to another4 ,ab uno1 disce omnes1 cutting and pasting have been much oftener employed than the pen and ink3 any one who has occasion to refer to two or three of them1 will find the receipts almost always verbatim et literatim2 equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant1 and useless to those who are acquainted with the business of the kitchen4 ,i have perused not fewer than #bej of these volumes4 ,during the ,herculean labour of my tedious progress through these books1 few of which afford the germ of a single idea1 ,i have often wished that the authors of them had been satisfied with giving us the results of their own practice and experience1 instead of idly perpetuating the errors1 prejudices1 and plagiarisms of their predecessors2 the strange1 and unaccountable1 and uselessly extravagant farragoes and heterogeneous compositions which fill their pages1 are combinations no rational being would ever think of either dressing or eating2 and without ascertaining the practicability of preparing the receipts1 and their fitness for food when done1 they should never have ventured to recommend them to others3 the reader of them will often put the same qure1 as ,jeremy1 in ,congreve's comedy of ,love for ,love1 when ,valentine observes1 ,there's a page doubled down in ,epictetus that is a feast for an emperor4--,jer4 ,was ,epictetus a real cook1 or did he only write receipts8 ,half of the modern cookery books are made up with pages cut out of obsolete works1 such as the ,choice ,manual of ,secrets1 the ,true ,gentlewoman's ,delight1 c4 of as much use1 in this age of refinement1 as the following curious passage from ,the ,accomplished ,lady's ,rich ,closet of ,rarities1 or ,ingenious ,gentlewoman's ,delightful ,companion1 #abmo4 ,london1 #afec1 chapter #g1 page #db2 which ,i have inserted in a note1#bi-99 to give the reader a notion of the barbarous manners of the #afth century1 with the addition of the arts of the confectioner1 the brewer1 the baker1 the distiller1 the gardener1 the clear-starcher1 and the perfumer1 and how to make pickles1 puff paste1 butter1 blacking1 c4 together with my ,lady ,bountiful's sovereign remedy for an inward bruise1 and other ever-failing nostrums1--,dr4 ,killemquick's wonder-working essence1 and fallible elixir1 which cures all manner of incurable maladies directly minute1 ,mrs4 ,notable's instructions how to make soft pomatum1 that will soon make more hair grow upon thy head1 than ,dobbin1 thy thill-horse1 hath upon his tail1 and many others equally invaluable666--the proper appellation for which would be a dangerous budget of vulgar errors1 concluding with a bundle of extracts from the ,gardener's ,calendar1 and the ,publican's ,daily ,companion4 ,thomas ,carter1 in the preface to his ,city and ,country ,cook1 ,london1 #agch1 says1 ,what ,i have published is almost the only book1 one or two excepted1 which of late years has come into the world1 that has been the result of the author's own practice and experience2 for though very few eminent practical cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew of the art1 yet they have been prevailed on1 for a small premium from a bookseller1 to lend their names to performances in this art unworthy their owning4 ,robert ,may1 in the introduction to his ,accomplished ,cook1 #affe1 says1 ,to all honest and well-intending persons of my profession1 and others1 this book cannot but be acceptable1 as it plainly and profitably discovers the mystery of the whole art2 for which1 though ,i may be envied by some1 that only value their private interests above posterity and the public good2 yet 7he adds71 ,god and my own conscience would not permit me to bury these1 my experiences1 with my silver hairs in the grave4 ,those high and mighty masters and mistresses of the alimentary art1 who call themselves profess cooks1 are said to be very jealous and mysterious beings2 and that if1 in a long life of laborious stove-work1 they have found out a few useful secrets1 they seldom impart to the public the fruits of their experience2 but sooner than divulge their discoveries for the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures1 these silly1 selfish beings will rather run the risk of a reprimand from their employers1 and will sooner spoil a good dinner1 than suffer their fellow-servants to see how they dress it666 ,the silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals1 is never more extremely absurd than in their unprofitable parsimony of what is of no use to them1 but would be of actual value to others1 who1 in return1 would willingly repay them tenfold4 ,however1 ,i hope ,i may be permitted to quote1 in defence of these culinary professors1 a couple of lines of a favourite old song3 ,if you search the world round1 each profession1 you'll find1 ,hath some snug little secrets1 which the ,mystery#cj-99 they call4 ,,my ,,receipts are the results of experiments carefully made1 and accurately and circumstantially related2 ,the ,,time requisite for dressing being stated2 ,the ,,quantities of the various articles contained in each composition being carefully set down in ,,number1 ,,weight1 and ,,measure4 ,the ,,weights are avoirdupois2 the ,,measure1 ,lyne's graduated glass1 i4 e4 a wine-pint divided into sixteen ounces1 and the ounce into eight drachms4 ,by a wine-glass is to be understood two ounces liquid measure2 by a large or table-spoonful1 half an ounce2 by a small or tea-spoonful1 a drachm1 or half a quarter of an ounce1 i4 e4 nearly equal to two drachms avoirdupois4 ,at some glass warehouses1 you may get measures divided into tea and table-spoons4 ,no cook should be without one1 who wishes to be regular in her business4 ,this precision has never before been attempted in cookery books1 but ,i found it indispensable from the impossibility of guessing the quantities intended by such obscure expressions as have been usually employed for this purpose in former works3-- ,for instance3 a bit of this--a handful of that--a pinch of t'other--do 'em over with an egg--and a sprinkle of salt--a dust of flour--a shake of pepper--a squeeze of lemon1--or a dash of vinegar1 c4 are the constant phrases4 ,season it to your palate1 7meaning the cook's17 is another form of speech3 now1 if she has any1 7it is very unlikely that it is in unison with that of her employers17 by continually sipping piquante relishes1 it becomes blunted and insensible1 and loses the faculty of appreciating delicate flavours1 so that every thing is done at random4 ,these culinary technicals are so very differently understood by the learned who write them1 and the unlearned who read them1 and their rule of thumb is so extremely indefinite1 that if the same dish be dressed by different persons1 it will generally be so different1 that nobody would imagine they had worked from the same directions1 which will assist a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the kitchen1 no more than reading ,robinson ,crusoe would enable a sailor to steer safely from ,england to ,india4#cb-99 ,it is astonishing how cheap cookery books are held by practical cooks3 when ,i applied to an experienced artist to recommend me some books that would give me a notion of the rudiments of cookery1 he replied1 with a smile1 ,you may read ,don ,quixote1 or ,peregrine ,pickle1 they are both very good books4 ,careless expressions in cookery are the more surprising1 as the confectioner is regularly attentive1 in the description of his preparations1 to give the exact quantities1 though his business1 compared to cookery1 is as unimportant as the ornamental is inferior to the useful4 ,the maker of blanc-mange1 custards1 c4 and the endless and useless collection of puerile playthings for the palate 7of first and second childhood1 for the vigour of manhood seeketh not to be sucking sugar1 or sipping turtle71 is scrupulously exact1 even to a grain1 in his ingredients2 while cooks are unintelligibly indefinite1 although they are intrusted with the administration of our ,,food1 upon the proper quality and preparation of which1 all our powers of body and mind depend2 their energy being invariably in the ratio of the performance of the restorative process1 i4 e4 the quantity1 quality1 and perfect digestion of what we eat and drink4 ,unless the stomach be in good humour1 every part of the machinery of life must vibrate with languor3 can we then be too attentive to its adjustment866 ,,culinary ,,curiosities4 ,the following specimen of the unaccountably whimsical harlequinade of foreign kitchens is from ,la ,chapelle ,nouveau ,cuisinier1 ,paris1 #agdh4 ,a turkey1 in the shape of football1 or a hedge-hog4 ,a shoulder of mutton1 in the shape of a bee-hive4--,entre of pigeons1 in the form of a spider1 or sun-fashion1 or in the form of a frog1 or1 in the form of the moon4--,or1 to make a pig taste like a wild boar2 take a living pig1 and let him swallow the following drink1 viz4 boil together in vinegar and water1 some rosemary1 thyme1 sweet basil1 bay leaves1 and sage2 when you have let him swallow this1 immediately whip him to death1 and roast him forthwith4 ,how to still a cocke for a weak bodie that is consumed1--take a red cocke that is not too olde1 and beat him to death4--,see ,,the ,,booke ,,of ,,cookrye1 very necessary for all such as delight therein4 ,gathered by ,a4 ,w41 #aeia1 p4 #ab4 ,how to ,,roast a pound of ,,butter1 curiously and well2 and to farce 7the culinary technical for to stuff7 a boiled leg of lamb with red herrings and garlic2 with many other receipts of as high a relish1 and of as easy digestion as the devil's venison1 i4 e4 a roasted tiger stuffed with tenpenny nails1 or the ,bonne ,bouche1 the rareskin ,rowskimowmowsky offered to ,baron ,munchausen1 a fricassee of pistols1 with gunpowder and alcohol sauce4--,see the ,adventures of ,baron ,munchausen1 #abmo4 #agib1 p4 #bjj2 and the horrible but authentic account of ,,ardesoif1 in ,,moubray',s ,treatise on ,poultry1 #hvo4 #ahaf1 p4 #ah4 ,but the most extraordinary of all the culinary receipts that have been under my eye1 is the following diabolically cruel directions of ,mizald1 how to roast and eat a goose alive4 ,take a ,,goose or a ,,duck1 or some such lively creature1 7but a goose is best of all for this purpose17 pull off all her feathers1 only the head and neck must be spared3 then make a fire round about her1 not too close to her1 that the smoke do not choke her1 and that the fire may not burn her too soon2 nor too far off1 that she may not escape free3 within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots full of water1 wherein salt and honey are mingled3 and let there be set also chargers full of sodden apples1 cut into small pieces in the dish4 ,the goose must be all larded1 and basted over with butter1 to make her the more fit to be eaten1 and may roast the better3 put then fire about her1 but do not make too much haste1 when as you see her begin to roast2 for by walking about1 and flying here and there1 being cooped in by the fire that stops her way out1 the unwearied goose is kept in2 she will fall to drink the water to quench her thirst and cool her heart1 and all her body1 and the apple-sauce will make her dung1 and cleanse and empty her4 ,and when she roasteth1 and consumes inwardly1 always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge2 and when you see her giddy with running1 and begin to stumble1 her heart wants moisture1 and she is roasted enough4 ,take her up1 set her before your guests1 and she will cry as you cut off any part from her1 and will be almost eaten up before she be dead2 it is mighty pleasant to behold66--,see ,,wecker',s ,secrets of ,nature1 in folio1 ,london1 #affj1 p4 #adh4 #cji4cc-99 ,we suppose ,mr4 ,mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his infernal majesty2 probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil ordered when he invited ,nero and ,caligula to a feast4--,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 ,this is also related in ,,baptista ,,porta',s ,natural ,magicke1 fol4 #afeh1 p4 #cba4 ,this very curious 7but not scarce7 book contains1 among other strange tricks and fancies of the ,olden ,time1 directions1 how to ,,roast and ,,boil a fowl at the same time1 so that one-half shall be ,,roasted and the other ,,boiled2 and if you have a lacke of cooks1 how to persuade a goose to roast himselfe66--,see a second act of the above tragedy in page #hj of the ,gentleman's ,magazine for ,january1 #ahji4 ,many articles were in vogue in the #adth century1 which are now obsolete4 ,we add the following specimens of the ,,culinary ,,affairs ,,of ,,days ,,of ,,yore4 ,sauce for a goose1 ,a4,d4 #acha4 ,take a faire panne1 and set hit under the goose whill she rostes2 and kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof1 and put thereto a godele 7good deal7 of ,wyn1 and a litel vinegur1 and verjus1 and onyons mynced1 or garlek2 then take the gottes 7gut7 of the goose and slitte hom1 and scrape hom clene in water and salt1 and so wash hom1 and hack hom small1 then do all this togedur in a piffenet 7pipkin71 and do thereto raisinges of corance1 and pouder of pepur and of ginger1 and of canell and hole clowes and maces1 and let hit boyle and serve hit forthe4 ,that unwieldy marine animal the ,,porpus was dressed in a variety of modes1 salted1 roasted1 stewed1 c4 ,our ancestors were not singular in their partiality to it2 ,i find1 from an ingenious friend of mine1 that it is even now1 ,a4 ,d4 #agij1 sold in the markets of most towns in ,portugal2 the flesh of it is intolerably hard and rancid4--,,warner',s ,antiq4 ,cul4 #dto4 p4 #ae4 ,the ,,swan#cc- was also a dish of state1 and in high fashion when the elegance of the feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which it was composed2 the number consumed at the ,earl of ,northumberland's table1 ,a4 ,d4 #aeab1 amounted to twenty4--,northumberland ,household-book1 p4 #ajh4 ,the ,,crane was a darling dainty in ,william the ,conqueror's time1 and so partial was that monarch to it1 that when his prime favourite1 ,william ,fitz-,osborne1 the steward of the household1 served him with a crane scarcely half roasted1 the king was so highly exasperated1 that he lifted up his fist1 and would have strucken him1 had not ,eudo 7appointed ,dapifer immediately after7 warded off the blow4--,,warner',s ,antiq4 ,cul4 p4 #ab4 ,,seals1 ,,curlews1 ,,herons1 ,,bitterns1 and the ,,peacock1 that noble bird1 the food of lovers and the meat of lords1 were also at this time in high fashion1 when the baronial entertainments were characterized by a grandeur and pompous ceremonial1 approaching nearly to the magnificence of royalty2 there was scarcely any royal or noble feast without ,,pecokkes1 which were stuffed with spices and sweet herbs1 roasted and served up whole1 and covered after dressing with the skin and feathers2 the beak and comb gilt1 and the tail spread1 and some1 instead of the feathers1 covered it with leaf gold2 it was a common dish on grand occasions1 and continued to adorn the ,english table till the beginning of the seventeenth century4 ,in ,massinger's play of ,the ,city ,madam1 ,holdfast1 exclaiming against city luxury1 says1 three fat wethers bruised1 to make sauce for a single peacock4 ,this bird is one of those luxuries which were often sought1 because they were seldom found3 its scarcity and external appearance are its only recommendation2 the meat of it is tough and tasteless4 ,another favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers1 was a ,,pie of stupendous magnitude1 out of which1 on its being opened1 a flock of living birds flew forth1 to the no small surprise and amusement of the guests4 ,four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie2 ,when the pie was open'd1 the birds began to sing-- ,oh6 what a dainty dish--'t is fit for any king4 ,this was a common joke at an old ,english feast4 ,these animated pies were often introduced to set on1 as ,hamlet says1 a quantity of barren spectators to laugh2 there is an instance of a dwarf undergoing such an incrustation4 ,about the year #afcj1 king ,charles and his queen were entertained by the duke and dutchess of ,buckingham1 at ,burleigh on the ,hill1 on which occasion ,,jeffery ,,hudson1 the dwarf1 was served up in a cold pie4--,see ,,walpole',s ,anecdotes of ,painting1 vol4 ii4 p4 #ad4 ,the ,,baron ,,of ,,beef was another favourite and substantial support of old ,english hospitality4 ,among the most polished nations of the #aeth and #afth centuries1 the powdered 7salted7 horse1 seems to have been a dish in some esteem3 ,grimalkin herself could not escape the undistinguishing fury of the cook4 ,don ,anthony of ,guevera1 the chronicler to ,charles ,v41 gives the following account of a feast at which he was present4 ,i will tell you no lye1 ,i sawe such kindes of meates eaten1 as are wont to be sene1 but not eaten--as a ,,horse roasted--a ,,cat in gely--,,lyzards in hot brothe1 ,,frogges fried1 c4 ,while we are thus considering the curious dishes of olden times1 we will cursorily mention the singular diet of two or three nations of antiquity1 noticed by ,herodotus1 lib4 iv4 ,the ,androphagi 7the cannibals of the ancient world7 greedily devoured the carcasses of their fellow-creatures2 while the inoffensive ,cabri 7a ,scythian tribe7 found both food and drink in the agreeable nut of the ,pontic tree4 ,the ,lotophagi lived entirely on the fruit of the ,lotus tree4 ,the savage ,troglodyte esteemed a living serpent the most delicate of all morsels2 while the capricious palate of the ,zyguntini preferred the ape to every thing4--,vide ,,warner',s ,antiq4 ,cul4 p4 #ace4 ,the ,romans1 in the luxurious period of their empire1 took five meals a day2 a breakfast 7jentaculum27 a dinner1 which was a light meal without any formal preparation 7prandium72 a kind of tea1 as we should call it1 between dinner and supper 7merenda72 a supper 7cna71 which was their great meal1 and commonly consisted of two courses2 the first of meats1 the second1 what we call a dessert2 and a posset1 or something delicious after supper 7commissatio74--,,adam',s ,rom4 ,antiq4 #b;d edition1 #hvo4 #agib1 p4 #dcd and #ddg4 ,the ,romans usually began their entertainments with eggs1 and ended with fruits2 hence1 ,,ab ,,ovo ,,usque ,,ad ,,mala1 from the beginning to the end of supper1 ,horat4 ,sat4 i4 #c4 #f2 ,cic4 ,fam4 ix4 #bj4 ,the dishes 7edulia7 held in the highest estimation by the ,romans1 are enumerated1 ,gell4 vii4 #af1 ,macrob4 ,sat4 ii4 #i1 ,martial4 v4 #gi1 ix4 #dh1 xi4 #ec1 c41 a peacock 7,,pavo71 ,horat4 ,sat4 ii4 #b4 #bc1 ,juvenal4 i4 #adc1 first used by ,hortensius1 the orator1 at a supper1 which he gave when admitted into the college of priests1 7aditiali cnd sacerdotii17 ,plin4 x4 #bj1 s4 #bc2 a pheasant1 7,,phasiana1 ex ,phasi4 ,colchidis fluvio17 ,martial4 iii4 #eh1 xiii4 #gb1 ,senec4 ad ,helv4 #i1 ,petron4 #gi1 ,manil4 v4 #cgb2 a bird called ,attagen vel-ena1 from ,ionia or ,phrygia1 ,horat4 ,epod4 ii4 #ed1 ,martial4 xiii4 iii4 #fa1 a guinea-hen1 7avis ,afra1 ,horat4 ib4 ,gallina ,numidica vel ,africana1 ,juvenal1 xi4 #adb1 ,martial1 xiii4 #gc72 a ,melian crane2 an ,ambracian kid2 nightingales1 luscini2 thrushes1 turdi2 ducks1 geese1 c4 ,,tomaculum1 7a temn17 vel ,,isicium1 7ab inseco27 sausages or puddings1 ,juvenal4 x4 #cee4 ,martial4 #db4 #i1 ,petron4 #ca4--,vide ibid4 p4 #ddg4 ,that the ,english reader may be enabled to form some idea of the heterogeneous messes with which the ,roman palate was delighted1 ,i introduce the following receipt from ,apicius4 ,,thick ,,sauce ,,for ,a ,,boiled ,,chicken4--,put the following ingredients into a mortar3 aniseed1 dried mint1 and lazar-root 7similar to assafoetida71 cover them with vinegar2 add dates2 pour in liquamen1 oil1 and a small quantity of mustard seeds2 reduce all to a proper thickness with port wine warmed2 and then pour this same over your chicken1 which should previously be boiled in anise-seed water4 ,liquamen and ,garum were synonymous terms for the same thing2 the former adopted in the room of the latter1 about the age of ,aurelian4 ,it was a liquid1 and thus prepared3 the guts of large fish1 and a variety of small fish1 were put into a vessel and well salted1 and exposed to the sun till they became putrid4 ,a liquor was produced in a short time1 which being strained off1 was the liquamen4--,vide ,,lister in ,apicium1 p4 #af1 notes4 ,essence of anchovy1 as it is usually made for sale1 when it has been opened about ten days1 is not much unlike the ,roman liquamen4 ,see ,no4 #dcc4 ,some suppose it was the same thing as the ,russian ,caviar1 which is prepared from the roe of the sturgeon4 ,the ,,black ,,broth of ,lacedmon will long continue to excite the wonder of the philosopher1 and the disgust of the epicure4 ,what the ingredients of this sable composition were1 we cannot exactly ascertain4 ,jul4 ,pollux says1 the ,lacedmonian black broth was blood1 thickened in a certain way3 ,dr4 ,,lister 7in ,apicium7 supposes it to have been hog's blood2 if so1 this celebrated ,spartan dish bore no very distant resemblance to the black-puddings of our days4 ,it could not be a very alluring mess1 since a citizen of ,sybaris having tasted it1 declared it was no longer a matter of astonishment with him1 why the ,spartans were so fearless of death1 since any one in his senses would much rather die1 than exist on such execrable food4--,vide ,athenum1 lib4 iv4 c4 #c4 ,when ,dionysius the tyrant had tasted the black broth1 he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff2 the cook replied--,it was no wonder1 for the sauce was wanting4 ,what sauce8 says ,dionysius4 ,the answer was1--,labour and exercise1 hunger and thirst1 these are the sauces we ,lacedmonians use1 and they make the coarsest fare agreeable4--,,cicero1 #c ,tuscul4 ,,footnotes3 #ae-99 ,the ,,stomach is the grand organ of the human system1 upon the state of which all the powers and feelings of the individual depend4--,see ,,hunter',s ,culina1 p4 #ac4 ,the faculty the stomach has of communicating the impressions made by the various substances that are put into it1 is such1 that it seems more like a nervous expansion of the brain1 than a mere receptacle for food4--,dr4 ,,waterhouse',s ,lecture on ,health1 p4 #d4 #ag-99 ,i wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mortals in as easy and simple a manner as it is in the cooking animals in the moon1 who lose no time at their meals2 but open their left side1 and place the whole quantity at once in their stomachs1 then shut it1 till the same day in the next month1 for they never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a year4--,see ,,baron ,,munchausen',s ,travels1 p4 #ahh4 ,pleasing the palate is the main end in most books of cookery1 but it is my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome2 but1 after all1 however the hale gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion1 the latter is the chief concern2 since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating as to think of no other1 still the care of his health becomes part of that2 if he is sick he cannot relish his food4 ,the term gourmand1 or ,,epicure1 has been strangely perverted2 it has been conceived synonymous with a glutton1 'n pour la digestion1' who will eat as long as he can sit1 and drink longer than he can stand1 nor leave his cup while he can lift it2 or like the great eater of ,kent whom ,,fuller places among his worthies1 and tells us that he did eat with ease thirty dozens of pigeons at one meal2 at another1 fourscore rabbits and eighteen yards of black pudding1 ,london measure6--or a fastidious appetite1 only to be excited by fantastic dainties1 as the brains of peacocks or parrots1 the tongues of thrushes or nightingales1 or the teats of a lactiferous sow4 ,in the acceptation which ,i give to the term ,,epicure1 it means only the person who has good sense and good taste enough to wish to have his food cooked according to scientific principles2 that is to say1 so prepared that the palate be not offended--that it be rendered easy of solution in the stomach1 and ultimately contribute to health2 exciting him as an animal to the vigorous enjoyment of those recreations and duties1 physical and intellectual1 which constitute the happiness and dignity of his nature4 ,for this illustration ,i am indebted to my scientific friend ,apicius ,clius1 ,jun41 with whose erudite observations several pages of this work are enriched1 to which ,i have affixed the signature ,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 #ah-99 ,although ,,air is more immediately necessary to life than ,,food1 the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance2 it admits certainly of great variety1 and a choice is more frequently in our power4 ,a very spare and simple diet has commonly been recommended as most conducive to health2 but it would be more beneficial to mankind if we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet was equally consistent with health1 as the very strict regimen of ,arnard1 or the miller of ,essex4 ,these1 and other abstemious people1 who1 having experienced the greatest extremities of bad health1 were driven to temperance as their last resource1 may run out in praises of a simple diet2 but the probability is1 that nothing but the dread of former sufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere in so strict a course of abstinence1 which persons who are in health and have no such apprehension could not be induced to undertake1 or1 if they did1 would not long continue4 ,in all cases1 great allowance must be made for the weakness of human nature3 the desires and appetites of mankind must1 to a certain degree1 be gratified1 and the man who wishes to be most useful will imitate the indulgent parent1 who1 while he endeavours to promote the true interests of his children1 allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in4 ,if it could be pointed out to mankind that some articles used as food were hurtful1 while others were in their nature innocent1 and that the latter were numerous1 various1 and pleasant1 they might1 perhaps1 be induced to forego those which were hurtful1 and confine themselves to those which were innocent4--,see ,dr4 ,,stark',s ,experiments on ,diet1 pp4 #hi and #ij4 #ai-99 ,see a curious account in ,,cours ,,gastronomique1 p4 #ade1 and in ,anacharsis' ,travels1 ,robinson1 #agif1 vol4 ii4 p4 #eh1 and ,obs4 and note under ,no4 #dic4 #ai- ,see the #b;d1 #c;d1 and #dth pages of ,sir ,,wm4 ,,temple',s ,essay on the ,cure of the ,gout by ,moxa4 #bj-99 ,he that would have a clear head1 must have a clean stomach4--,dr4 ,,cheyne on ,health1 #hvo4 #agbd1 p4 #cd4 ,it is sufficiently manifest how much uncomfortable feelings of the bowels affect the nervous system1 and how immediately and completely the general disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation4--p4 #ec4 ,we cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the nervous system1 while there is disorder of the digestive organs4 ,as we can perceive no permanent source of strength but from the digestion of our food1 it becomes important on this account that we should attend to its quantity1 quality1 and the periods of taking it1 with a view to ensure its proper digestion4--,,abernethy',s ,sur4 ,obs4 #hvo4 #ahag1 p4 #fe4 #bj- ,if science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind1 it must be in this department2 the real comfort of the majority of men in this country is sought for at their own fireside2 how desirable does it then become to give every inducement to be at home1 by directing all the means of philosophy to increase domestic happiness6--,,sylvester',s ,philosophy of ,domestic ,economy1 #dto4 #ahai1 p4 #ag4 #bj- ,the best books of cookery have been written by physicians4--,sir ,,kenelme ,,digby--,sir ,,theodore ,,mayerne4--,see the last quarter of page #cjd of vol4 x4 of the ,phil4 ,trans4 for #afge4--,professor ,,bradley--,dr4 ,,hill--,dr4 ,,le ,,cointe--,dr4 ,,hunter1 c4 ,to understand the ,,theory ,,of ,,cookery1 we must attend to the action of heat upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as applied directly and indirectly through the medium of some fluid1 in the former way as exemplified4 ,in the processes of ,,roasting and ,,boiling1 the chief constituents of animal substances undergo the following changes--the fibrine is corrugated1 the albumen coagulated1 the gelatine and osmazome rendered more soluble in water1 the fat liquefied1 and the water evaporated4 ,if the heat exceed a certain degree1 the surface becomes first brown1 and then scorched4 ,in consequence of these changes1 the muscular fibre becomes opaque1 shorter1 firmer1 and drier2 the tendons less opaque1 softer1 and gluey2 the fat is either melted out1 or rendered semi-transparent4 ,animal fluids become more transparent3 the albumen is coagulated and separated1 and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome4 ,lastly1 and what is the most important change1 and the immediate object of all cookery1 the meat loses the vapid nauseous smell and taste peculiar to its raw state1 and it becomes savoury and grateful4 ,heat applied through the intervention of boiling oil1 or melted fat1 as in ,,frying1 produces nearly the same changes2 as the heat is sufficient to evaporate the water1 and to induce a degree of scorching4 ,but when water is the medium through which heat is applied--as in ,,boiling1 ,,stewing1 and ,,baking1 the effects are somewhat different1 as the heat never exceeds #bab1 which is not sufficient to commence the process of browning or decomposition1 and the soluble constituents are removed by being dissolved in the water1 forming soup or broth2 or1 if the direct contact of the water be prevented1 they are dissolved in the juices of the meat1 and separate in the form of gravy4 ,vide ,supplement to ,encyclop4 ,brit4 ,edin4 vol4 iv4 p4 #cdd1 the article ,,food1 to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on the subject we have seen4 #ba-99 ,health1 beauty1 strength1 and spirits1 and ,i might add all the faculties of the mind1 depend upon the organs of the body2 when these are in good order1 the thinking part is most alert and active1 the contrary when they are disturbed or diseased4--,dr4 ,,cadogan on ,nursing ,children1 #hvo4 #ageg1 p4 #e4 #bb-99 ,we have some good families in ,england of the name of ,cook or ,coke4 ,i know not what they may think2 but they may depend upon it1 they all originally sprang from real and professional cooks2 and they need not be ashamed of their extraction1 any more than the ,parkers1 ,butlers1 c4--,dr4 ,,pegge',s ,forme of ,cury1 p4 #afb4 #bb- ,it is said1 there are ,,seven chances against even the most simple dish being presented to the mouth in absolute perfection2 for instance1 ,a ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 #ast4--,the mutton must be good4 #b;d4--,must have been kept a good time4 #c;d4--,must be roasted at a good fire4 #dth4--,by a good cook4 #eth4--,who must be in good temper4 #fth4--,with all this felicitous combination you must have good luck2 and1 #gth4--,good appetite4--,the meat1 and the mouths which are to eat it1 must be ready for action at the same moment4 #bc-99 ,to guard against la gourmandise of the second table1 provide each of your servants with a large pair of spectacles of the highest magnifying power1 and never permit them to sit down to any meal without wearing them2 they are as necessary1 and as useful in a kitchen as pots and kettles3 they will make a lark look as large as a ,,fowl1 a goose as big as a ,,swan1 a leg of mutton as large as a hind quarter of beef2 a twopenny loaf as large as a quartern2 and as philosophers assure you that pain even is only imaginary1 we may justly believe the same of hunger2 and if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food1 imagines1 by the aid of these glasses1 that he has eaten three pounds1 his hunger will be as fully satisfied--and the addition to your optician's account1 will soon be overpaid by the subtraction from your butcher's and baker's4 #be-99 ,much real reformation might be effected1 and most grateful services obtained1 if families which consist wholly of females1 would take servants recommended from the ,,magdalen--,,penitentiary--or ,,guardian--who seek to be restored to virtuous society4 ,female servants who pursue an honest course1 have to travel1 in their peculiar orbit1 through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhaps any other class of people in civilized life2 they should be treated with something like ,christian kindness3 for want of this1 a fault which might at the time have been easily amended has become the source of interminable sorrow4 ,by the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known to the writer1 two servants have become happy wives1 who1 had they been in some situations1 would have been literally outcasts4 ,a most laudable ,,society for the ,,encouragement of ,,female ,,servants1 by a gratuitous registry1 and by rewards1 was instituted in #ahac2 plans of which may be had gratis at the ,society's ,house1 ,no4 #aj1 ,hatton ,garden4 ,the above is an extract from the ,,rev4 ,h4 ,g4 ,,watkins',s ,hints to ,heads of ,families1 a work well deserving the attentive consideration of inexperienced housekeepers4 #bf-99 ,the greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion1 that his cook's health be preserved3 one hundredth part of the attention usually bestowed on his dog1 or his horse1 will suffice to regulate her animal system4 ,cleanliness1 and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam1 should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen2 the grand scene of action1 the fire-place1 should be placed where it may receive plenty of light2 hitherto the contrary has prevailed1 and the poor cook is continually basted with her own perspiration4--,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 ,the most experienced artists in cookery cannot be certain of their work without tasting3 they must be incessantly tasting4 ,the spoon of a good cook is continually passing from the stewpan to his tongue2 nothing but frequent tasting his sauces1 ragots1 c4 can discover to him what progress they have made1 or enable him to season a soup with any certainty of success2 his palate1 therefore1 must be in the highest state of excitability1 that the least fault may be perceived in an instant4 ,but1 alas6 the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves1 the necessity of frequent drinking1 and often of bad beer1 to moisten a parched throat2 in short1 every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiate the organs of taste2 the palate becomes blunted2 its quickness of feeling and delicacy1 on which the sensibility of the organs of taste depends1 grows daily more obtuse2 and in a short time the gustatory nerve becomes quite unexcitable4 ,,if ,,you ,,find ,,your ,,cook ,,neglect ,,his ,,business--that his ragots are too highly spiced or salted1 and his cookery has too much of the 'haut got1' you may be sure that his index of taste wants regulating2 his palate has lost its sensibility1 and it is high time to call in the assistance of the apothecary4 ',purger souvent' is the grand maxim in all kitchens where le ,matre d',htel has any regard for the reputation of his table4 ,les ,bons ,hommes de ,bouche submit to the operation without a murmur2 to bind others1 it should be made the first condition in hiring them4 ,those who refuse1 prove they were not born to become masters of their art2 and their indifference to fame will rank them1 as they deserve1 among those slaves who pass their lives in as much obscurity as their own stewpans4 ,to the preceding observations from the ,almanach des ,gourmands1 we may add1 that the ,mouthician will have a still better chance of success1 if he can prevail on his master to observe the same rgime which he orders for his cook2 or1 instead of endeavouring to awaken an idle appetite by reading the index to a cookery book1 or an additional use of the pepper-box and salt-cellar1 rather seek it from abstinence or exercise2--the philosophical gourmand will consider that the edge of our appetite is generally keen1 in proportion to the activity of our other habits2 let him attentively peruse our ,,peptic ,,precepts1 c4 which briefly explain the art of refreshing the gustatory nerves1 and of invigorating the whole system4 ,see in the following chapter on ,,invitations ,,to ,,dinner--,a recipe to make ,,forty ,,peristaltic ,,persuaders4 #bg-99 ,she must be quick and strong of sight2 her hearing most acute1 that she may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble1 although they be closely covered1 and that she may be alarmed before the pot boils over2 her auditory nerve ought to discriminate 7when several saucepans are in operation at the same time7 the simmering of one1 the ebullition of another1 and the full-toned wabbling of a third4 ,it is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly susceptible of the various effluvia1 that her nose may distinguish the perfection of aromatic ingredients1 and that in animal substances it shall evince a suspicious accuracy between tenderness and putrefaction2 above all1 her olfactories should be tremblingly alive to mustiness and empyreuma4 ,it is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate1 that we admire and judge of the cook2 from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid organs1 it will be seen that their perfection is indispensable4--,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 #bh-99 ,a facetious gourmand suggests that the old story of lighting a candle to the devil1 probably arose from this adage--and was an offering presented to his infernal majesty by some epicure who was in want of a cook4 #bi-99 ,a gentlewoman being at table1 abroad or at home1 must observe to keep her body straight1 and lean not by any means with her elbows1 nor by ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite3 talk not when you have meat in your mouth2 and do not smack like a pig1 nor venture to eat spoonmeat so hot that the tears stand in your eyes1 which is as unseemly as the gentlewoman who pretended to have as little a stomach as she had a mouth1 and therefore would not swallow her pease by spoonfuls2 but took them one by one1 and cut them in two before she would eat them4 ,it is very uncomely to drink so large a draught that your breath is almost gone--and are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself--throwing down your liquor as into a funnel is an action fitter for a juggler than a gentlewoman3 thus much for your observations in general2 if ,i am defective as to particulars1 your own prudence1 discretion1 and curious observations will supply4 ,in ,,carving at your own table1 distribute the best pieces first1 and it will appear very comely and decent to use a fork2 so touch no piece of meat without it4 ,mem4 ,the ,english are indebted to ,,tom ,,coryat for introducing ,,the ,,fork1 for which they called him ,furcifer4--,see his ,crudities1 vol4 i4 p4 #ajf4--;,edit4 #aggf1 #hvo4 #cj-99 ,almost all arts and sciences are more or less encumbered with vulgar errors and prejudices1 which avarice and ignorance have unfortunately sufficient influence to preserve1 by help 7or hindrance7 of mysterious1 undefinable1 and not seldom unintelligible1 technical terms--,anglic1 nicknames--which1 instead of enlightening the subject it is professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate1 serve but to shroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity2 and1 in general1 so extravagantly fond are the professors of an art of keeping up all the pomp1 circumstance1 and mystery of it1 and of preserving the accumulated prejudices of ages past undiminished1 that one might fairly suppose those who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome these obstacles1 and penetrate the veil of science1 were delighted with placing difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them1 on purpose to deter them from the pursuit1 and that they cannot bear others should climb the hill of knowledge by a readier road than they themselves did3 and such is l'esprit de corps1 that as their predecessors supported themselves by serving it out gradatim et stillatim1 and retailing with a sparing hand the information they so hardly obtained1 they find it convenient to follow their example3 and1 willing to do as they have been done by1 leave and bequeath the inheritance undiminished to those who may succeed them4--,see p4 #aj of ,dr4 ,,kitchiner on ,telescopes1 #abmo4 #ahbe1 printed for ,whittaker1 ,ave ,maria ,lane4 #cb-99 ,in the present language of cookery1 there has been a woful departure from the simplicity of our ancestors1--such a farrago of unappropriate and unmeaning terms1 many corrupted from the ,french1 others disguised from the ,italian1 some misapplied from the ,german1 while many are a disgrace to the ,english4 ,what can any person suppose to be the meaning of a shoulder of lamb in epigram1 unless it were a poor dish1 for a pennyless poet8 ,aspect of fish1 would appear calculated for an astrologer2 and shoulder of mutton surprised1 designed for a sheep-stealer4--,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 #cc-99 ,see note to ,no4 #ei how to plump the liver of a goose4 #cc- ,it is a curious illustration of the de gustibus non eat disputandum1 that the ancients considered the swan as a high delicacy1 and abstained from the flesh of the goose as impure and indigestible4--,,moubray on ,poultry1 p4 #cf4 ,,invitations ,,to ,,dinner ,in the affairs of the mouth the strictest punctuality is indispensable2 the ,,gastronomer ought to be as accurate an observer of time1 as the ,,astronomer4 ,the least delay produces fatal and irreparable misfortunes4 ,almost all other ceremonies and civil duties may be put off for several hours without much inconvenience1 and all may be postponed without absolute danger4 ,a little delay may try the patience of those who are waiting2 but the act itself will be equally perfect and equally valid4 ,procrastination sometimes is rather advantageous than prejudicial4 ,it gives time for reflection1 and may prevent our taking a step which would have made us miserable for life2 the delay of a courier has prevented the conclusion of a convention1 the signing of which might have occasioned the ruin of a nation4 ,if1 from affairs the most important1 we descend to our pleasures and amusements1 we shall find new arguments in support of our assertions4 ,the putting off of a rendezvous1 or a ball1 c4 will make them the more delightful4 ,to hope is to enjoy4 ,man never is1 but always to be blest4 ,the anticipation of pleasure warms our imagination1 and keeps those feelings alive1 which possession too often extinguishes4 ',tis expectation only makes us blest2 ,enjoyment disappoints us at the best4 ,dr4 ,johnson has most sagaciously said2 ,such is the state of life1 that none are happy1 but by the anticipation of change3 the change itself is nothing3 when we have made it1 the next wish is1 immediately to change again4 ,however singular our assertions may have at first appeared to those who have not considered the subject1 we hope by this time we have made converts of our readers1 and convinced the ,amateurs de ,bonne ,chre of the truth and importance of our remarks2 and that they will remember1 that ,,dinner is the only act of the day which cannot be put off with impunity1 for even ,,five ,,minutes4 ,in a well-regulated family1 all the clocks and watches should agree2 on this depends the fate of the dinner2 what would be agreeable to the stomach1 and restorative to the system1 if served at ,,five o'clock1 will be uneatable and innutritive and indigestible at ,a ,,quarter ,,past4 ,the dining-room should be furnished with a good-going clock2 the space over the kitchen fire-place with another1 vibrating in unison with the former1 so placed1 that the cook may keep one eye on the clock1 and the other on the spit1 c4 ,she will calculate to a minute the time required to roast a large capon or a little lark1 and is equally attentive to the degree of heat of her stove1 and the time her sauce remains on it1 when to withdraw the bakings from the oven1 the roast from the spit1 and the stew from the pan4 ,with all our love of punctuality1 the first consideration must still be1 that the dinner be well done1 when 't is done4 ,it is a common fault with cooks who are anxious about time1 to overdress every thing--the guests had better wait than the dinner--a little delay will improve their appetite2 but if the dinner waits for the guests1 it will be deteriorated every minute3 the host who wishes to entertain his friends with food perfectly well dressed1 while he most earnestly endeavours to impress on their minds the importance of being punctual to the appointed hour1 will still allow his cook a quarter of an hour's grace4 ,the old adage that the eye is often bigger than the belly1 is often verified by the ridiculous vanity of those who wish to make an appearance above their fortune4 ,nothing can be more ruinous to real comfort than the too common custom of setting out a table1 with a parade and a profusion1 unsuited not only to the circumstances of the hosts1 but to the number of the guests2 or more fatal to true hospitality1 than the multiplicity of dishes which luxury has made fashionable at the tables of the great1 the wealthy1 and the ostentatious1 who are1 often1 neither great nor wealthy4 ,such pompous preparation1 instead of being a compliment to our guests1 is nothing better than an indirect offence2 it is a tacit insinuation1 that it is absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies to bribe the depravity of their palates1 when we desire the pleasure of their company2 and that society now1 must be purchased1 at the same price ,,swift told ,,pope he was obliged to pay for it in ,ireland4 ,i should hardly prevail to find one visiter1 if ,i were not able to hire him with a bottle of wine4 ,vide ,swift's letters to ,pope1 ,july #ajth1 #agcb4 ,when twice as much cooking is undertaken as there are servants1 or conveniences in the kitchen to do it properly1 dishes must be dressed long before the dinner hour1 and stand by spoiling--the poor cook loses her credit1 and the poor guests get indigestions4 ,why prepare for eight or ten friends1 more than sufficient for twenty or thirty visiters8 ,enough is as good as a feast1 and a prudent provider1 who sensibly takes measure of the stomachic1 instead of the ,,silly ocular1 appetite of his guests1 may entertain his friends1 three times as often1 and ten times as well4 ,it is your ,,senseless ,,second ,,courses--ridiculous variety of ,,wines1 ,,liqueurs1 ,,ices1#ch-99 ,,desserts1 c4--which are served up merely to feed the eye1 or pamper palled appetite1 that overcome the stomach and paralyze digestion1 and seduce children of a larger growth to sacrifice the health and comfort of several days1 for the baby-pleasure of tickling their tongue for a few minutes1 with trifles and custards666 c4 c4 ,,indigestion will sometimes overtake the most experienced epicure2 when the gustatory nerves are in good humour1 hunger and savoury viands will sometimes seduce the tongue of a 'grand gourmand' to betray the interests of his stomach in spite of his brains4 ,on such an unfortunate occasion1 when the stomach sends forth eructant#ch- signals of distress1 the peristaltic persuaders are as agreeable and effectual assistance as can be offered2 and for delicate constitutions1 and those that are impaired by age or intemperance1 are a valuable panacea4 ,they derive1 and deserve this name1 from the peculiar mildness of their operation4 ,one or two very gently increase the action of the principal viscera1 help them to do their work a little faster1 and enable the stomach to serve with an ejectment whatever offends it1 and move it into the bowels4 ,thus indigestion is easily and speedily removed1 appetite restored1 the mouths of the absorbing vessels being cleansed1 nutrition is facilitated1 and strength of body1 and energy of mind1 are the happy results4 ,see ,,peptic ,,precepts1 from which we extract the following prescription-- ,to make ,,forty ,,peristaltic ,,persuaders1 ,take ,turkey rhubarb1 finely pulverized1 two drachms1 ,syrup 7by weight71 one drachm1 ,oil of carraway1 ten drops 7minims71 ,made into pills1 each of which will contain three grains of rhubarb4 ,the ,,dose ,,of ,,the ,,persuaders must be adapted to the constitutional peculiarity of the patient4 ,when you wish to accelerate or augment the alvine exoneration1 take two1 three1 or more1 according to the effect you desire to produce4 ,two pills will do as much for one person1 as five or six will for another3 they will generally very regularly perform what you wish to-day1 without interfering with what you hope will happen to-morrow2 and are therefore as convenient an argument against constipation as any we are acquainted with4 ,the most convenient opportunity to introduce them to the stomach1 is early in the morning1 when it is unoccupied1 and has no particular business of digestion1 c4 to attend to--i4 e4 at least half an hour before breakfast4 ,physic must never interrupt the stomach1 when it is busy in digesting food4 ,from two to four persuaders will generally produce one additional motion1 within twelve hours4 ,they may be taken at any time by the most delicate females1 whose constitutions are so often distressed by constipation1 and destroyed by the drastic purgatives they take to relieve it4 ,the cloth#ci-99 should be laid in the parlour1 and all the paraphernalia of the dinner-table completely arranged1 at least half an hour before dinner-time4 ,the cook's labour will be lost1 if the parlour-table be not ready for action1 and the eaters ready for the eatables1 which the least delay will irreparably injure3 therefore1 the ,,gourmand will be punctual for the sake of gratifying his ruling passion2 the ,,invalid1 to avoid the danger of encountering an indigestion from eating ill-dressed food2 and the ,,rational ,,epicure1 who happily attends the banquet with mens sana in corpore sano1 will keep the time not only for these strong reasons1 but that he may not lose the advantage of being introduced to the other guests4 ,he considers not only what is on the table1 but who are around it3 his principal inducement to leave his own fireside1 is the charm of agreeable and instructive society1 and the opportunity of making connexions1 which may augment the interest and enjoyment of existence4 ,it is the most pleasing part of the duty of the master of the feast 7especially when the guests are not very numerous71 to take advantage of these moments to introduce them to one another1 naming them individually in an audible voice1 and adroitly laying hold of those ties of acquaintanceship or profession which may exist between them4 ,this will much augment the pleasures of the festive board1 to which it is indeed as indispensable a prelude1 as an overture is to an opera3 and the host will thus acquire an additional claim to the gratitude of his guests4 ,we urge this point more strongly1 because1 from want of attention to it1 we have seen more than once persons whom many kindred ties would have drawn closely together1 pass an entire day without opening their lips to each other1 because they were mutually ignorant of each other's names1 professions1 and pursuits4 ,to put an end at once to all ceremony as to the order in which the guests are to sit1 it will save much time and trouble1 if the mistress of the mansion adopts the simple and elegant method of placing the name of each guest in the plate which is intended for him4 ,this proceeding will be of course the result of consideration1 and the host will place those together whom he thinks will harmonize best4 ,le ,journal des ,dames informs us1 that in several fashionable houses in ,paris1 a new arrangement has been introduced in placing the company at a dinner-table4 ,the ladies first take their places1 leaving intervals for the gentlemen2 after being seated1 each is desired to call on a gentleman to sit beside her2 and thus the lady of the house is relieved from all embarrassment of tiquette as to rank and pretensions1 c4 ,but1 without doubt1 says the ,journalist1 this method has its inconveniences4 ,it may happen that a bashful beauty dare not name the object of her secret wishes2 and an acute observer may determine1 from a single glance1 that the elected is not always the chosen4 ,if the party is large1 the founders of the feast may sit in the middle of the table1 instead of at each end1 thus they will enjoy the pleasure of attending equally to all their friends2 and being in some degree relieved from the occupation of carving1 will have an opportunity of administering all those little attentions which contribute so much to the comfort of their guests4 ,if the ,,guests have any respect for their ,,host1 or prefer a well-dressed dinner to one that is spoiled1 instead of coming half an hour after1 they will take care to make their appearance a quarter of an hour before the time appointed4 ,the operations of the cook are governed by the clock2 the moment the roasts1 c4 are ready1 they must go to the table1 if they are to be eaten in perfection4 ,an invitation to come at ,,five o'clock seems to be generally understood to mean six2 ,,five ,,precisely1 half past five2 and ,,not ,,later ,,than ,,five 7so that dinner may be on the table within five minutes after1 allowing this for the variation of watches71 ,,five ,o',,clock ,,exactly4 ,be it known to all loyal subjects of the empire of good-living1 that the ,,committee ,,of ,,taste have unanimously resolved1 that an invitation to ,,eta4 ,,beta4 ,,pi4 must be in writing1 and sent at least ten days before the banquet2 and must be answered in writing 7as soon as possible after it is received71 within twenty-four hours at least1 especially if it be not accepted3 then1 in addition to the usual complimentary expressions of thanks1 c4 the best possible reasons must be assigned for the non-acceptance1 as a particular pre-engagement1 or severe indisposition1 c4 ,before the bearer of it delivers it1 he should ascertain if the person it is directed to is at home2 if he is not1 when he will be2 and if he is not in town1 to bring the summons back4 ,nothing can be more disobliging than a refusal which is not grounded on some very strong and unavoidable cause1--except not coming at the appointed hour2--according to the laws of conviviality1 a certificate from a sheriff's officer1 a doctor1 or an undertaker1 are the only pleas which are admissible4 ,the duties which invitation imposes do not fall only on the persons invited1 but1 like all other social duties1 are reciprocal4 ,as he who has accepted an invitation cannot disengage himself from it2 the master of the feast cannot put off the entertainment on any pretence whatever4 ,urgent business1 sickness1 not even death itself1 can dispense with the obligation which he is under of giving the entertainment for which he has sent out invitations1 which have been accepted2 for in the extreme cases of compulsory absence1 or death1 his place may be filled by his friend or executor4--,vide le ,manuel des ,amphitryons1 #hvo4 ,paris1 #ahjh2 and ,cours ,gastronomique1 #ahji2 to which the reader is referred for farther instructions4 ,it is the least punishment that a blundering1 ill-bred booby can receive1 who comes half an hour after the time he was bidden1 to find the soup removed1 and the fish cold3 moreover1 for such an offence1 let him also be mulcted in a pecuniary penalty1 to be applied to the ,,fund ,,for ,,the ,,benefit ,,of ,,decayed ,,cooks4 ,this is the least punishment that can be inflicted on one whose silence1 or violation of an engagement1 tends to paralyze an entertainment1 and to draw his friend into useless expense4 ,,boileau1 the ,french satirist1 has a shrewd observation on this subject4 ,i have always been punctual at the hour of dinner1 says the bard2 for ,i knew1 that all those whom ,i kept waiting at that provoking interval1 would employ those unpleasant moments to sum up all my faults4--,,boileau is indeed a man of genius1 a very honest man2 but that dilatory and procrastinating way he has got into1 would mar the virtues of an angel4 ,there are some who seldom keep an appointment3 we can assure them they as seldom 'scape without whipping1 and exciting those murmurs which inevitably proceed from the best-regulated stomachs1 when they are empty1 and impatient to be filled4 ,the most amiable animals when hungry become ill-tempered3 our best friends employ the time they are kept waiting1 in recollecting and repeating any real faults we have1 and attributing to us a thousand imaginary ones4 ,ill-bred beings1 who indulge their own caprice1 regardless how they wound the feelings of others1 if they possess brilliant and useful talents1 may occasionally be endured as convenient tools2 but deceive themselves sadly1 even though they possess all the wisdom1 and all the wit in the world1 if they fancy they can ever be esteemed as friends4 ,wait for no one3 as soon as the clock strikes1 say grace1 and begin the business of the day1 ,and good digestion wait on appetite1 ,and health on both4 ,,manners ,,make ,,the ,,man4 ,good manners have often made the fortune of many1 who have had nothing else to recommend them3 ,ill manners have as often marred the hope of those who have had every thing else to advance them4 ,these regulations may appear a little rigorous to those phlegmatic philosophers1 ,who1 past all pleasures1 damn the joys of sense1 ,with rev'rend dulness and grave impotence1 and are incapable of comprehending the importance 7especially when many are invited7 of a truly hospitable entertainment3 but genuine connoisseurs in the science of good cheer will vote us thanks for our endeavours to initiate well-disposed amateurs4 ,,carving4 ,ceremony does not1 in any thing1 more commonly and completely triumph over comfort1 than in the administration of the honours of the table4 ,those who serve out the loaves and fishes seldom seem to understand that he is the best carver who fills the plates of the greatest number of guests1 in the least portion of time4 ,to effect this1 fill the plates and send them round1 instead of asking each individual if they choose soup1 fish1 c4 or what particular part they prefer2 for1 as they cannot all be choosers1 you will thus escape making any invidious distinctions4 ,a dexterous ,,carver#dc-99 7especially if he be possessed with that determined enemy to ceremony and sauce1 a keen appetite17 will help half a dozen people in half the time one of your would-be-thought polite folks wastes in making civil faces1 c4 to a single guest4 ,it would save a great deal of time1 c4 if ,,poultry1 especially large turkeys and geese1 were sent to table ready cut up4 7,no4 #ecj4997 ,,fish that is fried should be previously divided into such portions as are fit to help at table4 7,see ,no4 #ade47 ,a prudent carver will cut fair1#dc- observe an equitable distribution of the dainties he is serving out1 and regulate his helps1 by the proportion which his dish bears to the number he has to divide it among1 taking into this reckoning the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess4 ,study their genius1 caprices1 got-- ,they1 in return1 may haply study you3 ,some wish a pinion1 some prefer a leg1 ,some for a merry-thought1 or sidesbone beg1 ,the wings of fowls1 then slices of the round ,the trail of woodcock1 of codfish the sound4 ,let strict impartiality preside1 ,nor freak1 nor favour1 nor affection guide4 ,from the ,,banquet4 ,the guest who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome1 and frequent invitation to the board of hospitality1 may calculate that the easier he is pleased1 the oftener he will be invited4 ,instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess that the prime tit-bit of every dish be put on your plate1 receive 7if not with pleasure1 or even content7 with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness whatever is presented to you1 and forget not to praise the cook1 and the same shall be reckoned unto you even as the praise of the mistress4 ,the invalid or the epicure1 when he dines out1 to save trouble to his friends1 may carry with him a portable ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste4 7,see ,no4 #dfb47 ,if he does not like his fare1 he may console himself with the reflection1 that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again3 mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it1 notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy4 ,if he likes it ever so little1 he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner1 and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal1 and anticipating the 7to him7 rare and delicious zest of 7that best sauce7 good appetite1 and an unrestrained indulgence of his gormandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents4 ,never intrust a cook-teaser with the important office of ,,carver1 or place him within reach of a sauce-boat4 ,these chop-house cormorants1 who ',critique your wine1 and analyze your meat1 ,yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat1' are1 generally1 tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people2 for1 under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable1 and killingly agreeable to the guests1 they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out1 and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet3 the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification1 which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast4 ,such gentry are the terror of all good housewives3 to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints1 that a dainty dog would hardly get a meal from them after2 which1 managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper1 would furnish a decent dinner for a large family4--,vide ,almanach des ,gourmands4 ,i once heard a gentle hint on this subject1 given to a blue-mould fancier1 who by looking too long at a ,stilton cheese1 was at last completely overcome1 by his eye exciting his appetite1 till it became quite ungovernable2 and unconscious of every thing but the mity object of his contemplation1 he began to pick out1 in no small portions1 the primest parts his eye could select from the centre of the cheese4 ,the good-natured founder of the feast1 highly amused at the ecstasies each morsel created in its passage over the palate of the enraptured gourmand1 thus encouraged the perseverance of his guest--,cut away1 my dear sir1 cut away1 use no ceremony1 ,i pray3 ,i hope you will pick out all the best of my cheese4 ,don't you think that ,,the ,,rind and the ,,rotten will do very well for my wife and family66 ,there is another set of terribly free and easy folks1 who are fond of taking possession of the throne of domestic comfort1 and then1 with all the impudence imaginable1 simper out to the ousted master of the family1 ,dear me1 ,i am afraid ,i have taken your place6 ,half the trouble of ,,waiting ,,at ,,table may be saved by giving each guest two plates1 two knives and forks1 two pieces of bread1 a spoon1 a wine-glass1 and a tumbler1 and placing the wines and sauces1 and the ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste1 7,no4 #dfb17 c4 as a dormant1 in the centre of the table2 one neighbour may then help another4 ,dinner-tables are seldom sufficiently lighted1 or attended4 ,an active waiter will have enough to do to attend upon half a dozen active eaters4 ,there should be about half as many candles as there are guests1 and their flame be about eighteen inches above the table4 ,our foolish modern pompous candelabras seem intended to illuminate the ceiling1 rather than to give light on the plates1 c4 ,wax lights at dinner are much more elegant1 and not so troublesome and so uncertain as lamps1 nor so expensive2 for to purchase a handsome lamp will cost you more than will furnish you with wax candles for several years4 ,,footnotes3 #ch-99 ,swilling cold soda water immediately after eating a hearty dinner1 is another very unwholesome custom--take good ginger beer if you are thirsty1 and don't like ,sir ,john ,barleycorn's cordial4 #ch- ,strong peppermint or ginger lozenges are an excellent help for that flatulence with which some aged and dyspeptic people ate afflicted three or four hours after dinner4 #ci-99 ,le ,grand ,sommelier1 or ,,chief ,,butler1 in former times was expected to be especially accomplished in the art of folding table linen1 so as to lay his napkins in different forms every day3 these transformations are particularly described in ,,rose',s ,instructions for the ,officers of the ,mouth1 #afhb1 p4 #aaa1 c4 ,to pleat a napkin in the form of a cockle-shell double--in the form of hen and chickens--shape of two capons in a pye--or like a dog with a collar about his neck--and many others equally whimsical4 #dc-99 ,in days of yore ,le ,grand ,ecuyer ,tranchant1 or the ,,master ,,carver1 was the next officer of the mouth in rank to the ,matre d',htel1 and the technical terms of his art were as singular as any of those which ornament ,grose's ,classical ,slang ,dictionary1 or ,the ,gipsies' ,gibberish3 the only one of these old phrases now in common use is1 cut up the ,,turkey3--we are no longer desired to disfigure a ,,peacock--unbrace a ,,duck--unlace a ,,coney--tame a ,,crab--tire an ,,egg--and spoil the ,,hen1 c4--,see ,instructions for the ,officers of the ,mouth1 by ,,rose1 #afhb4 #dc- ,those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table4 ,if they cut bread1 meat1 cheese1 c4 ,,fairly1 it will go twice as far as if they hack and mangle it1 as if they had not half so much consideration for those in the kitchen as a good sportsman has for his dogs4 ,,friendly ,,advice ,,to ,,cooks1#df-99 ,,and ,,other ,,servants ,on your first coming into a family1 lose no time in immediately getting into the good graces of your fellow-servants1 that you may learn from them the customs of the kitchen1 and the various rules and orders of the house4 ,take care to be on good terms with the servant who waits at table2 make use of him as your sentinel1 to inform you how your work has pleased in the parlour3 by his report you may be enabled in some measure to rectify any mistake2 but request the favour of an early interview with your master or mistress3 depend as little as possible on second-hand opinions4 ,judge of your employers from ,,your ,,own observations1 and ,,their behaviour to you1 not from any idle reports from the other servants1 who1 if your master or mistress inadvertently drop a word in your praise1 will immediately take alarm1 and fearing your being more in favour than themselves1 will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it1 by pretending to take a prodigious liking to you1 and poisoning your mind in such a manner as to destroy all your confidence1 c4 in your employers2 and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying you away1 will take care you have no comfort while you stay3 be most cautious of those who profess most3 not only beware of believing such honey-tongued folks1 but beware as much of betraying your suspicions of them1 for that will set fire to the train at once1 and of a doubtful friend make a determined enemy4 ,if you are a good cook1 and strictly do your duty1 you will soon become a favourite domestic2 but never boast of the approbation of your employers2 for1 in proportion as they think you rise in their estimation1 you will excite all the tricks1 that envy1 hatred1 malice1 and all uncharitableness can suggest to your fellow-servants2 every one of whom1 if less sober1 honest1 or industrious1 or less favoured than yourself1 will be your enemy4 ,while we warn you against making others your enemies1 take care that you do not yourself become your own and greatest enemy4 ,favourites are never in greater danger of falling1 than when in the greatest favour1 which often begets a careless inattention to the commands of their employers1 and insolent overbearance to their equals1 a gradual neglect of duty1 and a corresponding forfeiture of that regard which can only be preserved by the means which created it4 ,those arts by which at first you gain it1 ,you still must practise to maintain it4 ,if your employers are so pleased with your conduct as to treat you as a friend rather than a servant1 do not let their kindness excite your self-conceit1 so as to make you for a moment forget you are one4 ,condescension1 even to a proverb1 produces contempt in inconsiderate minds2 and to such1 the very means which benevolence takes to cherish attention to duty1 becomes the cause of the evil it is intended to prevent4 ,to be an agreeable companion in the kitchen1 without compromising your duty to your patrons in the parlour1 requires no small portion of good sense and good nature3 in a word1 you must do as you would be done by4 ,,act ,,for1 ,,and ,,speak ,,of1 ,,every ,,body ,,as ,,if ,,they ,,were ,,present4 ,we hope the culinary student who peruses these pages will be above adopting the common1 mean1 and ever unsuccessful way of holding with the hare1 and running with the hounds1 of currying favour with fellow-servants by flattering them1 and ridiculing the mistress when in the kitchen1 and then1 prancing into the parlour and purring about her1 and making opportunities to display all the little faults you can find 7or invent7 that will tell well against those in the kitchen2 assuring them1 on your return1 that they were vraised1 for whatever you heard them blamed1 and so excite them to run more extremely into any little error which you think will be most displeasing to their employers2 watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into their unsuspecting ears1 when there is no third person to bear witness of your iniquity2 making your victims believe1 it is all out of your sincere regard for them2 assuring them 7as ,betty says in the man of the world17 ,that indeed you are no busybody that loves fending nor proving1 but hate all tittling and tattling1 and gossiping and backbiting1 c4 c4 ,depend upon it1 if you hear your fellow-servants speak disrespectfully of a master or a mistress with whom they have lived some time1 it is a sure sign that they have some sinister scheme against yourself2 if they have not been well treated1 why have they stayed8 ,there is nothing more detestable than defamation4 ,i have no scruple to rank a slanderer with a murderer or an assassin4 ,those who assault the reputation of their benefactors1 and 'rob you of that which nought enriches them1' would destroy your life1 if they could do it with equal impunity4 ,if you hope to gain the respect and esteem of others1 and the approbation of your own heart1 be respectful and faithful to your superiors1 obliging and good-natured to your fellow-servants1 and charitable to all4 ,you cannot be too careful to cultivate a meek and gentle disposition2 you will find the benefit of it every day of your life3 to promote peace and harmony around you1 will not only render you a general favourite with your fellow-servants1 but will make you happy in yourself4 ,let your character be remarkable for industry and moderation2 your manners and deportment1 for modesty and humility2 your dress distinguished for simplicity1 frugality1 and neatness4 ,a dressy servant is a disgrace to a house1 and renders her employers as ridiculous as she does herself4 ,if you outshine your companions in finery1 you will inevitably excite their envy1 and make them your enemies4 ,do every thing at the proper time4 ,keep every thing in its proper place4 ,use every thing for its proper purpose4 ,the importance of these three rules must be evident1 to all who will consider how much easier it is to return any thing when done with to its proper place1 than it is to find it when mislaid2 and it is as easy to put things in one place as in another4 ,keep your kitchen and furniture as clean and neat as possible1 which will then be an ornament to it1 a comfort to your fellow-servants1 and a credit to yourself4 ,moreover1 good housewifery is the best recommendation to a good husband1 and engages men to honourable attachment to you2 she who is a tidy servant gives promise of being a careful wife4 ,giving away ,victuals4 ,giving away any thing without consent or privity of your master or mistress1 is a liberty you must not take2 charity and compassion for the wants of our fellow-creatures are very amiable virtues1 but they are not to be indulged at the expense of your own honesty1 and other people's property4 ,when you find that there is any thing to spare1 and that it is in danger of being spoiled by being kept too long1 it is very commendable in you to ask leave to dispose of it while it is fit for ,christians to eat3 if such permission is refused1 the sin does not lie at your door4 ,but you must on no account bestow the least morsel in contradiction to the will of those to whom it belongs4 ,never think any part of your business too trifling to be well done4 ,eagerly embrace every opportunity of learning any thing which may be useful to yourself1 or of doing any thing which may benefit others4 ,do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight affront4 ,come when you are called1 and do what you are bid4 ,place yourself in your mistress's situation1 and consider what you would expect from her1 if she were in yours2 and serve1 reverence1 and obey her accordingly4 ,although there may be more places than parish-churches1 it is not very easy to find many more good ones4 ,a rolling stone never gathers moss4 ,honesty is the best policy4 ,a still tongue makes a wise head4 ,saucy answers are highly aggravating1 and answer no good purpose4 ,let your master or mistress scold ever so much1 or be ever so unreasonable2 as a soft answer turneth away wrath1 so will ,,silence be the best a servant can make4 ,one rude answer1 extorted perhaps by harsh words1 or unmerited censure1 has cost many a servant the loss of a good place1 or the total forfeiture of a regard which had been growing for years4 ,if your employers are hasty1 and have scolded without reason1 bear it patiently2 they will soon see their error1 and not be happy till they make you amends4 ,muttering on leaving the room1 or slamming the door after you1 is as bad as an impertinent reply2 it is1 in fact1 showing that you would be impertinent if you dared4 ,a faithful servant will not only never speak disrespectfully to her employers1 but will not hear disrespectful words said of them4 ,apply direct to your employers1 and beg of them to explain to you1 as fully as possible1 how they like their victuals dressed1 whether much or little done4#ej-99 ,of what complexion they wish the ,,roasts1 of a gold colour1 or well browned1 and if they like them frothed8 ,do they like ,,soups and ,,sauces thick or thin1 or white or brown1 clean or full in the mouth8 ,what accompaniments they are partial to8 ,what flavours they fancy8 especially of ,,spice and ,,herbs3 ,namque coquus domini debet habere gulam4--,,martial4 ,it is impossible that the most accomplished cook can please their palates1 till she has learned their particular taste3 this1 it will hardly be expected1 she can hit exactly the first time2 however1 the hints we have here given1 and in the #gth and #hth chapters of the ,rudiments of ,cookery1 will very much facilitate the ascertainment of this main chance of getting into their favour4 ,be extremely cautious of seasoning high3 leave it to the eaters to add the piquante condiments1 according to their own palate and fancy3 for this purpose1 ,,the ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste1 or ,sauce-box1 7,no4 #dfb17 will be found an invaluable acquisition2 its contents will instantaneously produce any flavour that may be desired4 ,de gustibus non est disputandum4 ,tastes are as different as faces2 and without a most attentive observation of the directions given by her employers1 the most experienced cook will never be esteemed a profound palatician4 ,it will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous gourmand1 who likes his chops broiled brown1 7and done enough1 so that they can appear at table decently1 and not blush when they are cut17 to be told that some of the customers at ,dolly's chop-house choose to have them only half-done1 and that this is the best way of eating them4 ,we all think that is the best way which we relish best1 and which agrees best with our stomach3 in this1 reason and fashion1 all-powerful as they are on most occasions1 yield to the imperative caprice of the palate4 ,chacun son got4 ,,the ,,irishman loves ,usquebaugh1 the ,,scot loves ale call'd ,blue-cap1 ,the ,,welchman he loves toasted cheese1 and makes his mouth like a mouse-trap4 ,our ,,italian neighbours regale themselves with macaroni and parmesan1 and eat some things which we call carrion4--,vide ,,ray',s ,travels1 p4 #cfb and #djf4 ,while the ,,englishman boasts of his roast beef1 plum pudding1 and porter1 ,the ,,frenchman feeds on his favourite frog and soupe-maigre1 ,the ,,tartar feasts on horse-flesh1 ,the ,,chinaman on dogs1 ,the ,,greenlander preys on garbage and train oil2 and each blesses his stars1 and thinks it luxury4 ,what at one time or place is considered as beautiful1 fragrant1 and savoury1 at another is regarded as deformed and disgustful4#ea-99 ,ask a toad what is beauty1 the supremely beautiful1 the ,,to ,,kalon6 ,he will tell you it is my wife1--with two large eyes projecting out of her little head1 a broad and flat neck1 yellow belly1 and dark brown back4 ,with a ,guinea negro1 it is a greasy black skin1 hollow eyes1 and a flat nose4 ,put the question to the devil1 and he will tell you that ,,beauty is a pair of horns1 four claws1 and a tail4--,,voltaire',s ,philos4 ,dict4 #hvo4 p4 #cb4 ,asafoetida was called by the ancients ',,food ,,for ,,the ,,gods4' ,the ,persians1 ,indians1 and other ,eastern people1 now eat it in sauces1 and call it by that name3 the ,germans call it devil's dung4--,vide ,,pomet on ,drugs4 ,garlic and clove1 or allspice1 combined in certain proportions1 produce a flavour very similar to asafoetida4 ,the organ of taste is more rarely found in perfection1 and is sooner spoiled by the operations of time1 excessive use1 c4 than either of our other senses4 ,there are as various degrees of sensibility of palate as there are of gradations of perfection in the eyes and ears of painters and musicians4 ,after all the pains which the editor has taken to explain the harmony of subtle relishes1 unless nature has given the organ of taste in a due degree1 this book will1 alas6 no more make an ,,osborne1#eb-99 than it can a ,,reynolds1 or an ,,arne1 or a ,,shield4 ,where nature has been most bountiful of this faculty1 its sensibility is so easily blunted by a variety of unavoidable circumstances1 that the tongue is very seldom in the highest condition for appreciating delicate flavours1 or accurately estimating the relative force of the various materials the cook employs in the composition of an harmonious relish4 ,cooks express this refinement of combination by saying1 a well-finished ragot tastes of every thing1 and tastes of nothing3 7this is kitchen gibberish for a sauce in which the component parts are well proportioned47 ,however delicately sensitive nature may have formed the organs of taste1 it is only during those few happy moments that they are perfectly awake1 and in perfect good humour1 7alas6 how very seldom they are17 that the most accomplished and experienced cook has a chance of working with any degree of certainty without the auxiliary tests of the balance and the measure3 by the help of these1 when you are once right1 it is your own fault if you are ever otherwise4 ,the sense of taste depends much on the health of the individual1 and is hardly ever for a single hour in the same state3 such is the extremely intimate sympathy between the stomach and the tongue1 that in proportion as the former is empty1 the latter is acute and sensitive4 ,this is the cause that good appetite is the best sauce1 and that the dish we find savoury at luncheon1 is insipid at dinner1 and at supper quite tasteless4 ,to taste any thing in perfection1 the tongue must be moistened1 or the substance applied to it contain moisture2 the nervous papill which constitute this sense are roused to still more lively sensibility by salt1 sugar1 aromatics1 c4 ,if the palate becomes dull by repeated tasting1 one of the best ways of refreshing it1 is to masticate an apple1 or to wash your mouth well with milk4 ,the incessant exercise of tasting1 which a cook is obliged to submit to during the education of her tongue1 frequently impairs the very faculty she is trying to improve4 ',tis true 'tis pity and pity 'tis1 7says a grand gourmand7 'tis true1 her too anxious perseverance to penetrate the mysteries of palatics may diminish the tact1 exhaust the power1 and destroy the index1 without which all her labour is in vain4 ,therefore1 a sagacious cook1 instead of idly and wantonly wasting the excitability of her palate1 on the sensibility of which her reputation and fortune depends1 when she has ascertained the relative strength of the flavour of the various ingredients she employs1 will call in the balance and the measure to do the ordinary business1 and endeavour to preserve her organ of taste with the utmost care1 that it may be a faithful oracle to refer to on grand occasions1 and new compositions4#ec-99 ,of these an ingenious cook may form as endless a variety1 as a musician with his seven notes1 or a painter with his colours3 read chapters #g and #h of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,receive as the highest testimonies of your employers' regard whatever observations they may make on your work3 such admonitions are the most unequivocal proofs of their desire to make you thoroughly understand their taste1 and their wish to retain you in their service1 or they would not take the trouble to teach you4 ,enter into all their plans of economy1#ec- and endeavour to make the most of every thing1 as well for your own honour as your master's profit1 and you will find that whatever care you take for his profit will be for your own3 take care that the meat which is to make its appearance again in the parlour is handsomely cut with a sharp knife1 and put on a clean dish3 take care of the gravy 7see ,no4 #cbf7 which is left1 it will save many pounds of meat in making sauce for hashes1 poultry1 and many little dishes4 ,,many ,,things ,,may ,,be ,,redressed in a different form from that in which they were first served1 and improve the appearance of the table without increasing the expense of it4 ,,cold ,,fish1 soles1 cod1 whitings1 smelts1 c4 may be cut into bits1 and put into escallop shells1 with cold oyster1 lobster1 or shrimp sauce1 and bread crumbled1 and put into a ,dutch oven1 and browned like scalloped oysters4 7,no4 #ahb47 ,the best way ,,to ,,warm ,,cold ,,meat is to sprinkle the joint over with a little salt1 and put it in a ,,dutch ,,oven1 at some distance before a gentle fire1 that it may warm gradually2 watch it carefully1 and keep turning it till it is quite hot and brown3 it will take from twenty minutes to three quarters of an hour1 according to its thickness2 serve it up with gravy3 this is much better than hashing it1 and by doing it nicely a cook will get great credit4 ,,poultry 7,no4 #ecj9971 ,,fried ,,fish 7see ,no4 #ade71 c4 may be redressed in this way4 ,take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat in2 in five minutes you may make it into ,,excellent ,,soup4 ,see obs4 to ,nos4 #eee and #bbi1 ,no4 #e1 and the #gth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,no good housewife has any pretensions to rational economy who boils animal food without converting the broth into some sort of soup4 ,however highly the uninitiated in the mystery of soup-making may elevate the external appendage of his olfactory organ at the mention of ,,pot ,,liquor1 if he tastes ,no4 #e1 or #bah1 #eee1 c4 he will be as delighted with it as a ,frenchman is with potage la ,camarani1 of which it is said a single spoonful will lap the palate in ,elysium2 and while one drop of it remains on the tongue1 each other sense is eclipsed by the voluptuous thrilling of the lingual nerves66 ,,broth ,,of ,,fragments4--,when you dress a large dinner1 you may make good broth1 or portable soup 7,no4 #beb71 at very small cost1 by taking care of all the trimmings and parings of the meat1 game1 and poultry1 you are going to use3 wash them well1 and put them into a stewpan1 with as much cold water as will cover them2 set your stewpan on a hot fire2 when it boils1 take off all the scum1 and set it on again to simmer gently2 put in two carrots1 two turnips1 a large onion1 three blades of pounded mace1 and a head of celery2 some mushroom parings will be a great addition4 ,let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours2 strain it through a sieve into a clean basin4 ,this will save a great deal of expense in buying gravy-meat4 ,have the ,,dust1 c4 removed regularly once in a fortnight1 and have your ,,kitchen ,,chimney swept once a month2 many good dinners have been spoiled1 and many houses burned down1 by the soot falling3 the best security against this1 is for the cook to have a long birch-broom1 and every morning brush down all the soot within reach of it4 ,give notice to your employers when the contents of your ,,coal-,,cellar are diminished to a chaldron4 ,it will be to little purpose to procure good provisions1 unless you have proper utensils#ee-99 to prepare them in3 the most expert artist cannot perform his work in a perfect manner without proper instruments2 you cannot have neat work without nice tools1 nor can you dress victuals well without an apparatus appropriate to the work required4 ,see #ast page of chapter #g of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,in those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence of her employer so much as to be intrusted with the care of the store-room1 which is not very common1 she will keep an exact account of every thing as it comes in1 and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every article she purchases1 and occasionally will 7and it may not be amiss to jocosely drop a hint to those who supply them that she does7 reweigh them1 for her own satisfaction1 as well as that of her employer1 and will not trust the key of this room to any one2 she will also keep an account of every thing she takes from it1 and manage with as much consideration and frugality as if it was her own property she was using1 endeavouring to disprove the adage1 that ,,plenty makes waste1 and remembering that wilful waste makes woful want4 ,the honesty of a cook must be above all suspicion3 she must obtain1 and 7in spite of the numberless temptations1 c4 that daily offer to bend her from it7 preserve a character of spotless integrity and useful industry1#ee- remembering that it is the fair price of ,,independence1 which all wish for1 but none without it can hope for2 only a fool or a madman will be so silly or so crazy as to expect to reap where he has been too idle to sow4 ,very few modern-built town-houses have a proper place to preserve provisions in4 ,the best substitute is a ,,hanging ,,safe1 which you may contrive to suspend in an airy situation2 and when you order meat1 poultry1 or fish1 tell the tradesman when you intend to dress it3 he will then have it in his power to serve you with provision that will do him credit1 which the finest meat1 c4 in the world will never do1 unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender4 ,if you have a well-ventilated larder in a shady1 dry situation1 you may make still surer1 by ordering in your meat and poultry such a time before you want it as will render it tender1 which the finest meat cannot be1 unless hung a proper time 7see #b;d chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery71 according to the season1 and nature of the meat1 c42 but always1 as les bons hommes de bouche de ,france say1 till it is assez mortifie4 ,permitting this process to proceed to a certain degree renders meat much more easy of solution in the stomach1 and for those whose digestive faculties are delicate1 it is of the utmost importance that it be attended to with the greatest nicety1 for the most consummate skill in the culinary preparation of it will not compensate for the want of attention to this4 7,read obs4 to ,no4 #fh47 ,meat that is thoroughly roasted1 or boiled1 eats much shorter and tenderer1 and is in proportion more digestible1 than that which is under-done4 ,you will be enabled to manage much better if your employers will make out a ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,,the ,,week on the ,saturday before3 for example1 for a family of half a dozen-- ,sunday ,roast beef 7,no4 #ai71 and my pudding 7,no4 #eed74 ,monday ,fowl 7,nos4 #af4 #eh71 what was left of my pudding fried1 and warmed in the ,dutch oven4 ,tuesday ,calf's head 7,no4 #aj71 apple-pie4 ,wednesday ,leg of mutton 7,no4 #a71 or 7,no4 #bc74 ,thursday ,do4 broiled or hashed 7,no4 #dhg71 or 7,no4 #dhd17 pancakes4 ,friday ,fish 7,no4 #ade71 pudding 7,no4 #eed74 ,saturday ,fish1 or eggs and bacon 7,no4 #ede74 ,it is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain days4 ,when your butcher or poulterer knows what you will want1 he has a better chance of doing his best for you2 and never think of ordering ,,beef ,,for ,,roasting except for ,sunday4 ,when the weather or season#ef-99 is very unfavourable for keeping meat1 c4 give him the choice of sending that which is in the best order for dressing2 i4 e4 either ribs or sirloin of beef1 or leg1 loin1 or neck of mutton1 c4 ,meat in which you can detect the slightest trace of putrescency1 has reached its highest degree of tenderness1 and should be dressed without delay2 but before this period1 which in some kinds of meat is offensive1 the due degree of inteneration may be ascertained1 by its yielding readily to the pressure of the finger1 and by its opposing little resistance to an attempt to bind the joint4 ,although we strongly recommend that animal food should be hung up in the open air1 till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness2 yet1 let us be clearly understood also to warn you1 that if kept till it loses its natural sweetness1 it is as detrimental to health1 as it is disagreeable to the smell and taste4 ,,in ,,very ,,cold ,,weather1 bring your meat1 poultry1 c4 into the kitchen1 early in the morning1 if you roast1 boil1 or stew it ever so gently and ever so long2 if it be frozen1 it will continue tough and unchewable4 ,without very watchful attention to this1 the most skilful cook in the world will get no credit1 be she ever so careful in the management of her spit or her stewpan4 ,the time meat should hang to be tender1 depends on the heat and humidity of the air4 ,if it is not kept long enough1 it is hard and tough2 if too long1 it loses its flavour4 ,it should be hung where it will have a thorough air1 and be dried with a cloth1 night and morning1 to keep it from damp and mustiness4 ,before you dress it1 wash it well2 if it is roasting beef1 pare off the outside4 ,if you fear meat1#eg-99 c4 will not keep till the time it is wanted1 par-roast or par-boil it2 it will then keep a couple of days longer1 when it may be dressed in the usual way1 only it will be done in rather less time4 ,in ,germany1 the method of keeping flesh in summer is to steep it in ,rhenish wine with a little sea-salt2 by which means it may be preserved a whole season4--,,boerhaave',s ,academical ,lectures1 translated by ,j4 ,nathan1 #hvo4 #agfc1 p4 #bda4 ,the cook and the butcher as often lose their credit by meat being dressed too fresh1 as the fishmonger does by fish that has been kept too long4 ,dr4 ,franklin in his philosophical experiments tells us1 that if game or poultry be killed by ,,electricity it will become tender in the twinkling of an eye1 and if it be dressed immediately1 will be delicately tender4 ,during the sultry ,,summer ,,months1 it is almost impossible to procure meat that is not either tough1 or tainted4 ,the former is as improper as the latter for the unbraced stomachs of relaxed valetudinarians1 for whom1 at this season1 poultry1 stews1 c41 and vegetable soups1 are the most suitable food1 when the digestive organs are debilitated by the extreme heat1 and profuse perspiration requires an increase of liquid to restore equilibrium in the constitution4 ,i have taken much more pains than any of my predecessors1 to teach the young cook how to perform1 in the best manner1 the common business of her profession4 ,being well grounded in the ,,rudiments of ,,cookery1 she will be able to execute the orders that are given her1 with ease to herself1 and satisfaction to her employers1 and send up a delicious dinner1 with half the usual expense and trouble4 ,i have endeavoured to lessen the labour of those who wish to be thoroughly acquainted with their profession2 and an attentive perusal of the following pages will save them much of the irksome drudgery attending an apprenticeship at the stove3 an ordeal so severe1 that few pass it without irreparable injury to their health2#eh-99 and many lose their lives before they learn their business4 ,to encourage the best performance of the machinery of mastication1 the cook must take care that her dinner is not only well cooked1 but that each dish be sent to table with its proper accompaniments1 in the neatest and most elegant manner4 ,remember1 to excite the good opinion of the eye is the first step towards awakening the appetite4 ,decoration is much more rationally employed in rendering a wholesome1 nutritious dish inviting1 than in the elaborate embellishments which are crowded about trifles and custards4 ,endeavour to avoid over-dressing roasts and boils1 c4 and over-seasoning soups and sauces with salt1 pepper1 c42 it is a fault which cannot be mended4 ,if your roasts1 c4 are a little under-done1 with the assistance of the stewpan1 the gridiron1 or the ,dutch oven1 you may soon rectify the mistake made with the spit or the pot4 ,if over-done1 the best juices of the meat are evaporated2 it will serve merely to distend the stomach1 and if the sensation of hunger be removed1 it is at the price of an indigestion4 ,the chief business of cookery is to render food easy of digestion1 and to facilitate nutrition4 ,this is most completely accomplished by plain cookery in perfection2 i4 e4 neither over nor under-done4 ,with all your care1 you will not get much credit by cooking to perfection1 if more than one dish goes to table at a time4 ,to be eaten in perfection1 the interval between meat being taken out of the stewpan and its being put into the mouth1 must be as short as possible2 but ceremony1 that most formidable enemy to good cheer1 too often decrees it otherwise1 and the guests seldom get a bit of an entremets till it is half cold4 7,see ,no4 #dhe47 ,so much time is often lost in placing every thing in apple-pie order1 that long before dinner is announced1 all becomes lukewarm2 and to complete the mortification of the grand gourmand1 his meat is put on a sheet of ice in the shape of a plate1 which instantly converts the gravy into jelly1 and the fat into a something which puzzles his teeth and the roof of his mouth as much as if he had birdlime to masticate4 ,a complete meat-screen will answer the purpose of a hot closet1 plate-warmer1 c4--,see ,index4 ,it will save you infinite trouble and anxiety1 if you can prevail on your employers to use the ,,sauce-,,box1 ,no4 #dfb1 hereinafter described in the chapter of ,sauces4 ,with the help of this ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste1 every one in company may flavour their soup and sauce1 and adjust the vibrations of their palate1 exactly to their own fancy2 but if the cook give a decidedly predominant and piquante got to a dish1 to tickle the tongues of two or three visiters1 whose taste she knows1 she may thereby make the dinner disgusting to all the other guests4 ,never undertake more work than you are quite certain you can do well4 ,if you are ordered to prepare a larger dinner than you think you can send up with ease and neatness1 or to dress any dish that you are not acquainted with1 rather than run any risk in spoiling any thing 7by one fault you may perhaps lose all your credit71 request your employers to let you have some help4 ,they may acquit you for pleading guilty of inability2 but if you make an attempt1 and fail1 will vote it a capital offence4 ,if your mistress professes to understand cookery1 your best way will be to follow her directions4 ,if you wish to please her1 let her have the praise of all that is right1 and cheerfully bear the blame of any thing that is wrong2 only advise that all ,,new ,,dishes may be first tried when the family dine alone4 ,when there is company1 never attempt to dress any thing which you have not ascertained that you can do perfectly well4 ,do not trust any part of your work to others without carefully overlooking them3 whatever faults they commit1 you will be censured for4 ,if you have forgotten any article which is indispensable for the day's dinner1 request your employers to send one of the other servants for it4 ,the cook must never quit her post till her work is entirely finished4 ,it requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all things done as they should be1 and all done together1 at that critical moment when the dinner-bell sounds to the banquet4 ,a feast must be without a fault2 ,and if 't is not all right1 't is naught4 ,but ,good nature will some failings overlook1 ,forgive mischance1 not errors of the cook2 ,as1 if no salt is thrown about the dish1 ,or nice crisp'd parsley scatter'd on the fish1 ,shall we in passion from our dinner fly1 ,and hopes of pardon to the cook deny1 ,for things which ,mrs4 ,,glasse herself might oversee1 ,and all mankind commit as well as she8 ,vide ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery4 ,such is the endless variety of culinary preparations1 that it would be as vain and fruitless a search as that for the philosopher's stone1 to expect to find a cook who is quite perfect in all the operations of the spit1 the stewpan1 and the rolling-pin3 you will as soon find a watchmaker who can make1 put together1 and regulate every part of a watch4 ,the universe cannot produce a cook who knows how to do every branch of cookery well1 be his genius as great as possible4--,vide the ,cook's ,cookery1 #hvo4 page #dj4 ,,the ,,best ,,rule ,,for ,,marketing is to pay ,,ready ,,money for every thing1 and to deal with the most respectable tradesmen in your neighbourhood4 ,if you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good article1 at the fair market price1 you will be supplied with better provisions1 and at as reasonable a rate as those bargain-hunters1 who trot around1 around1 around about a market1 till they are trapped to buy some unchewable old poultry1 tough tup-mutton1 stringy cow beef1 or stale fish1 at a very little less than the price of prime and proper food4 ,with savings like these they toddle home in triumph1 cackling all the way1 like a goose that has got ankle-deep into good luck4 ,all the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing1 unless she is furnished with ,,prime ,,provisions4 ,the best way to procure these is to deal with shops of established character3 you may appear to pay1 perhaps1 ten per cent4 more than you would1 were you to deal with those who pretend to sell cheap1 but you would be much more than in that proportion better served4 ,every trade has its tricks and deceptions3 those who follow them can deceive you if they please2 and they are too apt to do so1 if you provoke the exercise of their over-reaching talent4#fa-99 ,challenge them to a game at ,catch who can1 by entirely relying on your own judgment2 and you will soon find that nothing but very long experience can make you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmost advantage4 ,before you go to market1 look over your larder1 and consider well what things are wanting1 especially on a ,saturday4 ,no well-regulated family can suffer a disorderly caterer to be jumping in and out to the chandler's shop on a ,sunday morning4 ,give your directions to your assistants1 and begin your business early in the morning1 or it will be impossible to have the dinner ready at the time it is ordered4 ,to be half an hour after the time is such a frequent fault1 that there is the more merit in being ready at the appointed hour4 ,this is a difficult task1 and in the best-regulated family you can only be sure of your time by proper arrangements4 ,with all our love of punctuality1 we must not forget that the first consideration must still be1 that the dinner be well done when 't is done4 ,if any accident occurs to any part of the dinner1 or if you are likely to be prevented sending the soup1 c4 to the table at the moment it is expected1 send up a message to your employers1 stating the circumstance1 and bespeak their patience for as many minutes as you think it will take to be ready4 ,this is better than either keeping the company waiting without an apology1 or dishing your dinner before it is done enough1 or sending any thing to table which is disgusting to the stomachs of the guests at the first appearance of it4 ,those who desire regularity in the service of their table1 should have a ,,dial1 of about twelve inches diameter1 placed over the kitchen fireplace1 carefully regulated to keep time exactly with the clock in the hall or dining-parlour2 with a frame on one side1 containing ,a ,,taste ,,table of the peculiarities of the master's palate1 and the particular rules and orders of his kitchen2 and1 on the other side1 of the ,,rewards given to those who attend to them1 and for long and faithful service4 ,in small families1 where a dinner is seldom given1 a great deal of preparation is required1 and the preceding day must be devoted to the business of the kitchen4 ,on these occasions a char-woman is often employed to do the dirty work4 ,ignorant persons often hinder you more than they help you4 ,we advise a cook to be hired to assist to dress the dinner3 this would be very little more expense1 and the work got through with much more comfort in the kitchen and credit to the parlour4 ,when you have a very large entertainment to prepare1 get your soups and sauces1 forcemeats1 c4 ready the day before1 and read the #gth chapter of our ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,many made dishes may also be prepared the day before they are to go to table2 but do not dress them quite enough the first day1 that they may not be over-done by warming up again4 ,prepare every thing you can the day before the dinner1 and order every thing else to be sent in early in the morning2 if the tradesmen forget it1 it will allow you time to send for it4 ,the pastry1 jellies1 c4 you may prepare while the broths are doing3 then truss your game and poultry1 and shape your collops1 cutlets1 c41 and trim them neatly2 cut away all flaps and gristles1 c4 ,nothing should appear on table but what has indisputable pretensions to be eaten6 ,put your made dishes in plates1 and arrange them upon the dresser in regular order4 ,next1 see that your roasts and boils are all nicely trimmed1 trussed1 c4 and quite ready for the spit or the pot4 ,have your vegetables neatly cut1 pared1 picked1 and clean washed in the colander3 provide a tin dish1 with partitions1 to hold your fine herbs3 onions and shallots1 parsley1 thyme1 tarragon1 chervil1 and burnet1 minced very fine2 and lemon-peel grated1 or cut thin1 and chopped very small3 pepper and salt ready mixed1 and your spice-box and salt-cellar always ready for action3 that every thing you may want may be at hand for your stove-work1 and not be scampering about the kitchen in a whirlpool of confusion1 hunting after these trifles while the dinner is waiting4 ,in one drawer under your ,,spice-,,box keep ready ground1 in well-stopped bottles1 the several spices separate2 and also that mixture of them which is called ragot powder 7,no4 #deg or ,no4 #dfj73 in another1 keep your dried and powdered sweet1 savoury1 and soup herbs1 c4 and a set of weights and scales3 you may have a third drawer1 containing flavouring essences1 c4 an invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces4 7,see the account of the ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste1 or ,,sauce-,,box1 ,no4 #dfb47 ,have also ready some ,,thickening1 made of the best white flour sifted1 mixed with soft water with a wooden spoon till it is the consistence of thick batter1 a bottle of plain ,,browning 7,no4 #cbb71 some strained lemon-juice1 and some good glaze1 or ,,portable soup 7,no4 #beb74 ,nothing can be done in perfection which must be done in a hurry3#fc-99 therefore1 if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your master and mistress1 and do credit to yourself1 be punctual2 take care that as soon as the clock strikes1 the dinner-bell rings3 this shows the establishment to be orderly1 is extremely gratifying to the master and his guests1 and is most praiseworthy in the attendants4 ,but remember1 you cannot obtain this desirable reputation without good management in every respect4 ,if you wish to ensure ease and independence in the latter part of your life1 you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only they can be obtained1 and earn them by a diligent and faithful#fd-99 performance of the duties of your station in your young days1 which1 if you steadily persevere in1 you may depend upon ultimately receiving the reward your services deserve4 ,all duties are reciprocal3 and if you hope to receive favour1 endeavour to deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging1 and grateful when obliged2 such behaviour will win regard1 and maintain it3 enforce what is right1 and excuse what is wrong4 ,quiet1 steady perseverance is the only spring which you can safely depend upon for infallibly promoting your progress on the road to independence4 ,if your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interest1 be not easily discouraged4 ,persevere1 and do all in your power to ,,make ,,yourself ,,useful4 ,endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family2 let it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is required of you1 than less than your duty3 they merit little who perform merely what would be exacted4 ,if you are desired to help in any business which may not strictly belong to your department1 undertake it cheerfully1 patiently1 and conscientiously4 ,the foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to augment the comfort of those in the kitchen1 who will soon find that the ever-cheering reflection of having done their duty to the utmost of their ability1 is in itself1 with a ,christian spirit1 a never-failing source of comfort in all circumstances and situations1 and that ,,virtue ,,is ,,its ,,own ,,reward4 ,,footnotes3 #df-99 ,a chapter of advice to cooks will1 we hope1 be found as useful as it is original3 all we have on this subject in the works of our predecessors1 is the following2 ,i shall strongly recommend to all cooks of either sex1 to keep their stomachs free from strong liquors till after dinner1 and their noses from snuff4--,vide ,,clermont',s ,professed ,cook1 p4 #cj1 #hvo4 ,london1 #aggf4 #ej-99 ,meat that is not to be cut till it is cold1 must be thoroughly done1 especially in summer4 #ea-99 ,see chapter ,,xv4 ,chaque ,pays1 chaque ,coutume4--,cours ,gastronomique1 #hvo4 #ahji1 p4 #afb4 #eb-99 ,cook to ,sir ,,joseph ,,banks1 ,bart41 late president of the ,royal ,society4 #ec-99 ,the diversities of taste are so many and so considerable1 that it seemeth strange to see the matter treated of both by philosophers and physicians with so much scantiness and defect3 for the subject is not barren1 but yieldeth much and pleasant variety1 and doth also appear to be of great importance4--,from ,dr4 ,,grew',s ,anat4 of ,plants1 fol4 #afhb1 p4 #bhf4 ,the ,dr4 enumerates sixteen simple tastes3 however1 it is difficult to define more than six4--#ast4 ,bitter as wormwood4 #b;d4 ,sweet as sugar4 #c;d4 ,sour as vinegar4 #dth4 ,salt as brine4 #eth4 ,cold as ice4 #fth4 ,hot as brandy4 ,compound tastes1 innumerable1 may be formed by the combination of these simple tastes--as words are of letters4--,see also ,phil4 ,trans4 vol4 xv4 p4 #ajbe4 #ec- ,i am persuaded that no servant ever saved her master sixpence1 but she found it in the end in her pocket4--,,trusler',s ,domestic ,management1 p4 #aa4 #ee-99 ,a surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair of shears1 or open a vein with an oyster-knife1 as a cook pretend to dress a dinner without proper tools4--,,verrall',s ,cookery1 #hvo4 #agei1 p4 #f4 #ee- ,many ,,cooks miss excellent opportunities of making themselves independent1 by their idleness1 in refusing any place1 however profitable1 c4 if there is not a kitchen maid kept to wait upon them4 ,there are many invalids who require a good cook1 and as 7after reading this book they will understand how much7 their comfort and effective existence depends on their food being properly prepared1 will willingly pay handsome wages1 7who would not rather pay the cook than the doctor87 but have so little work in the kitchen that one person may do it all with the utmost ease1 without injury to her health2 which is not the case in a large family1 where the poor cook is roasting and stewing all day1 and is often deprived of her rest at night4 ,no artists have greater need to make hay while the sun shines1 and timely provide for the infirmities of age4 ,who will hire a superannuated servant8 ,if she has saved nothing to support herself1 she must crawl to the workhouse4 ,it is melancholy to find1 that1 according to the authority of a certain great ,french author1 cooks1 half stewed and half roasted1 when unable to work any longer1 generally retire to some unknown corner1 and die in forlornness and want4--,,blackwood',s ,edin4 ,mag4 vol4 vii4 p4 #ffh4 #ef-99 ,the season of the year has considerable influence on the quality of butcher-meat2 depending upon the more or less plentiful supply of food1 upon the periodical change which takes place in the body of the animal1 and upon temperature4 ,the flesh of most full-grown quadrupeds is in highest season during the first months of winter1 after having enjoyed the advantage of the abundance of fresh summer food4 ,its flavour then begins to be injured by the turnips1 c4 given as winter food2 and in spring1 it gets lean from deficiency of food4 ,although beef and mutton are never absolutely out of season1 or not fit for the table1 they are best in ,november1 ,december1 and ,january4 ,pork is absolutely bad1 except during the winter4--,supplement to the ,edin4 ,ency4 ,brit4 p4 #cbh4 #eg-99 ,,larders1 ,,pantries1 and ,,safes must be sheltered from the sun1 and otherwise removed from the heat2 be dry1 and1 if possible1 have a current of dry1 cool air continually passing through them4 ,the freezing temperature1 i4 e4 #cb degrees of ,fahrenheit1 is a perfect preservative from putrefaction3 warm1 moist1 muggy weather is the worst for keeping meat4 ,the south wind is especially unfavourable1 and lightning is quickly destructive2 but the greatest enemy you have to encounter is the flesh-fly1 which becomes troublesome about the month of ,may1 and continues so till towards ,michaelmas4--,for further ,obs4 on this subject see ,the ,experienced ,butcher1 page #afj4 #eh-99 ,buy it with health1 strength1 and resolution1 ,and pay for it1 a robust constitution4 ,preface to the ,cook's ,cookery1 #ageh4 ,see the preface to ,the ,cook's ,cookery1 p4 #i4 ,this work1 which is very scarce1 was1 we believe1 written to develope the mistakes in what he calls ,the ,thousand ,errors1 i4 e4 ,the ,lady's ,cookery1 i4 e4 ,mrs4 ,glasse's1 i4 e4 ,sir ,john ,hill's4 #fa-99 ,he who will not be cheated a little1 must be content to be abused a great deal3 the first lesson in the art of comfortable economy1 is to learn to submit cheerfully to be imposed upon in due proportion to your situation and circumstances3 if you do not1 you will continually be in hot water4 ,if you think a tradesman has imposed upon you1 never use a second word1 if the first will not do1 nor drop the least hint of an imposition4 ,the only method to induce him to make an abatement is the hope of future favours4 ,pay the demand1 and deal with the gentleman no more3 but do not let him see that you are displeased1 or1 as soon as you are out of sight1 your reputation will suffer as much as your pocket has4--,,trusler',s ,way to be ,rich1 #hvo4 #aggf1 p4 #he4 #fc-99 ,says ,,tom ,,thrifty1 except catching of fleas4 ,see ,t4 ,t4's ,essay on ,early ,rising4 #fd-99 ,n4,b4 ,if you will take half the pains to deserve the regard of your master and mistress by being a good and faithful servant1 you take to be considered a good fellow-servant1 so many of you would not1 in the decline of life1 be left destitute of those comforts which age requires1 nor have occasion to quote the saying that ',service is no inheritance1' unless your own misconduct makes it so4 ,the idea of being called a tell-tale has occasioned many good servants to shut their eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants4 ,in the eye of the law1 persons standing by and seeing a felony committed1 which they could have prevented1 are held equally guilty with those committing it4--,dr4 ,,trusler',s ,domestic ,management1 p4 #ab1 and ,instructions to ,servants4 ,,table ,,of ,,weights ,,and ,,measures4 ,to reduce our culinary operations to as exact a certainty as the nature of the processes would admit of1 we have1 wherever it was needful1 given the quantities of each article4 ,the weights are avoirdupois4 ,the measure1 the graduated glass of the apothecaries4 ,this appeared the most accurate and convenient2 the pint being divided into sixteen ounces1 the ounce into eight drachms4 ,a middling-sized tea-spoon will contain about a drachm2 four such tea-spoons are equal to a middling-sized table-spoon1 or half an ounce2 four table-spoons to a common-sized wine-glass4 ,the specific gravities of the various substances being so extremely different1 we cannot offer any auxiliary standards#fe-99 for the weights1 which we earnestly recommend the cook to employ1 if she wishes to gain credit for accuracy and uniformity in her business3 these she will find it necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachm avoirdupois1 which is equal to nearly seven grains troy4 ,glass measures 7divided into tea and table-spoons71 containing from half an ounce to half a pint1 may be procured2 also1 the double-headed pepper and spice boxes1 with caps over the gratings4 ,the superiority of these1 by preserving the contents from the action of the air1 must be sufficiently obvious to every one3 the fine aromatic flavour of pepper is soon lost1 from the bottles it is usually kept in not being well stopped4 ,peppers are seldom ground or pounded sufficiently fine4 7,see ,n4,b4 to #cfi47 ,n4,b4 ,the trough nutmeg-graters are by far the best we have seen1 especially for those who wish to grate fine1 and fast4 ,,footnotes3 #fe-99 ,a large table-spoonful of flour weighs about half an ounce4 ,,rudiments ,,of ,,cookery4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,boiling4#ff-99 ,this most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in perfection4 ,it does not require quite so much nicety and attendance as roasting2 to skim your pot well1 and keep it really boiling 7the slower the better7 all the while1 to know how long is required for doing the joint1 c41 and to take it up at the critical moment when it is done enough1 comprehends almost the whole art and mystery4 ,this1 however1 demands a patient and perpetual vigilance1 of which few persons are capable4 ,the cook must take especial care that the water really boils all the while she is cooking1 or she will be deceived in the time2 and make up a sufficient fire 7a frugal cook will manage with much less fire for boiling than she uses for roasting7 at first1 to last all the time1 without much mending or stirring4 ,when the pot is coming to a boil there will always1 from the cleanest meat and clearest water1 rise a scum to the top of it1 proceeding partly from the water2 this must be carefully taken off as soon as it rises4 ,on this depends the good appearance of all boiled things4 ,when you have skimmed well1 put in some cold water1 which will throw up the rest of the scum4 ,the oftener it is skimmed1 and the cleaner the top of the water is kept1 the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat4 ,if let alone1 it soon boils down and sticks to the meat1#fg-99 which1 instead of looking delicately white and nice1 will have that coarse and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of1 and the butcher and poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook in not skimming her pot4 ,many put in milk1 to make what they boil look white2 but this does more harm than good3 others wrap it up in a cloth2 but these are needless precautions3 if the scum be attentively removed1 meat will have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled up4 ,this may give rather more trouble1 but those who wish to excel in their art must only consider how the processes of it can be most perfectly performed3 a cook1 who has a proper pride and pleasure in her business1 will make this her maxim on all occasions4 ,it is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness1 or before thicker parts are done enough the thinner will be done too much4 ,put your meat into cold#fg- water1 in the proportion of about a quart of water to a pound of meat3 it should be covered with water during the whole of the process of boiling1 but not drowned in it2 the less water1 provided the meat be covered with it1 the more savoury will be the meat1 and the better will be the broth4 ,the water should be heated gradually1 according to the thickness1 c4 of the article boiled4 ,for instance1 a leg of mutton of #aj pounds weight 7,no4 #a17 should be placed over a moderate fire1 which will gradually make the water hot1 without causing it to boil for about forty minutes2 if the water boils much sooner1 the meat will be hardened1 and shrink up as if it was scorched3 by keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling1 the fibres of the meat are dilated1 and it yields a quantity of scum1 which must be taken off as soon as it rises4 #ajd4 ,if a vessel containing water be placed over a steady fire1 the water will grow continually hotter till it reaches the limit of boiling1 after which the regular accessions of heat are wholly spent in converting it into steam4 ,water remains at the same pitch of temperature1 however fiercely it boils4 ,the only difference is1 that with a strong fire it sooner comes to boil1 and more quickly boils away1 and is converted into steam4--,,buchanan on the ,economy of ,fuel1 #ahaj4 ,the editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which cooks call gentle simmering2 the heat was #bab1 i4 e4 the same degree as the strongest boiling4 ,two mutton chops were covered with cold water1 and one boiled a gallop1 and the other simmered very gently for three quarters of an hour3 the chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly superior to that which was boiled2 it was much tenderer1 more juicy1 and much higher flavoured4 ,the liquor which boiled fast was in like proportion more savoury1 and when cold had much more fat on its surface4 ,this explains why quick boiling renders meat hard1 c41 because its juices are extracted in a greater degree4 ,reckon the time from its first coming to a boil4 ,the old rule of #ae minutes to a pound of meat1 we think rather too little3 the slower it boils1 the tenderer1 the plumper1 and whiter it will be4 ,for those who choose their food thoroughly cooked 7which all will who have any regard for their stomachs71 twenty minutes to a pound for fresh1 and rather more for salted meat1 will not be found too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire1 allowing more or less time1 according to the thickness of the joint1 and the coldness of the weather3 to know the state of which1 let a thermometer be placed in the pantry2 and when it falls below #dj1 tell your cook to give rather more time in both roasting and boiling1 always remembering1 the slower it boils the better4 ,without some practice it is difficult to teach any art2 and cooks seem to suppose they must be right1 if they put meat into a pot1 and set it over the fire for a certain time1 making no allowance whether it simmers without a bubble or boils a gallop4 ,fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that which has been kept till it is what the butchers call ripe1 and longer in cold than in warm weather3 if it be frozen1 it must be thawed before boiling as before roasting2 if it be fresh-killed1 it will be tough and hard1 if you stew it ever so long1 and ever so gently4 ,in cold weather1 the night before the day you dress it1 bring it into a place of which the temperature is not less than #de degrees of ,fahrenheit's thermometer4 ,the size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what they are to contain3 the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon the fire1 and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate increase of fire to boil it4 ,a little pot ,is soon hot4 ,in small families we recommend block tin saucepans1 c4 as lightest and safest4 ,if proper care is taken of them1 and they are well dried after they are cleaned1 they are by far the cheapest2 the purchase of a new tin saucepan being little more than the expense of tinning a copper one4 ,let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close1 not only to prevent unnecessary evaporation of the water1 but to prevent the escape of the nutritive matter1 which must then remain either in the meat or in the broth2 and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself under the edge of the lid1 and so giving the meat a bad taste4 ,see observations on ,saucepans1 in chapter #g4 ,if you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done enough1 it will become sodden1 and lose its flavour4 ,beef and mutton a little under-done 7especially very large joints1 which will make the better hash or broil17 is not a great fault2 by some people it is preferred3 but lamb1 pork1 and veal are uneatable if not thoroughly boiled2 but do not over-do them4 ,a trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot1 raising the contents about an inch and a half from the bottom1 will prevent that side of the meat which comes next the bottom from being done too much1 and the lower part of the meat will be as delicately done as the other part2 and this will enable you to take out the contents of the pot1 without sticking a fork1 c4 into it4 ,if you have not a trivet1 use four skewers1 or a soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards4 ,take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat in2 in five minutes you may make it into excellent soup4 7,see obs4 to ,no4 #eee and ,no4 #bbi47 ,the good housewife never boils a joint without converting the broth into some sort of soup 7read ,no4 #e1 and chapter #g74 ,if the liquor be too salt1 only use half the quantity1 and the rest water4 ,wash salted meat well with cold water before you put it into the boiler4 ,an estimation of the ,,loss ,,of ,,weight which takes place in cooking animal food4--,from ,mr4 ,,tilloch',s ,philosophical ,magazine4 ,it is well known1 that in whatever way the flesh of animals is prepared for food1 a considerable diminution takes place in its weight4 ,we do not recollect1 however1 to have any where seen a statement of the loss which meat sustains in the various culinary processes1 although it is pretty obvious that a series of experiments on the subject would not be without their use in domestic economy4 ,we shall here give the result of a series of experiments which were actually made on this subject in a public establishment2 premising that1 as they were not undertaken from mere curiosity1 but1 on the contrary1 to serve a purpose of practical utility1 absolute accuracy was not attended to4 ,considering1 however1 the large quantities of provisions which were actually examined1 it is presumed that the results may be safely depended upon for any practical purpose4 ,it would1 no doubt1 have been desirable to have known not only the whole diminution of weight1 but also the parts which were separated from the meat in the form of aqueous vapour1 jelly1 fat1 c42 but the determination of these did not fall within the scope of the inquiry4 lbs4 oz4 #bh pieces of beef1 weighing #bhj #j ,lost in boiling #gc #ad ,hence1 the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this case about #bf-a_/blbs4 in #ajjlbs4 lbs4 oz4 #ai pieces of beef1 weighing #aij #j ,lost in roasting #fa #b ,the weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be #cb per cent4 lbs4 oz4 #i pieces of beef1 weighing #ij #j ,lost in baking #bg #j ,weight lost by beef in baking #cj per cent4 lbs4 oz4 #bg legs of mutton1 weighing #bfj #j ,lost in boiling1 and by having the shank-bone taken off #fb #d ,the shank-bones were estimated at #d ounces each2 therefore the loss by boiling was #eelbs4 #hoz4 ,the loss of weight in legs of mutton in boiling is #ba-a_/c per cent4 lbs4 oz4 #ce shoulders of mutton1 weighing #cej #j ,lost in roasting #aji #aj ,the loss of weight in shoulders of mutton by roasting1 is about #ca-a_/c per cent4 lbs4 oz4 #af loins of mutton1 weighing #ada #j ,lost in roasting #di #ad ,hence1 loins of mutton lose by roasting about #ce-a_/b per cent4 lbs4 oz4 #aj necks of mutton1 weighing #ajj #j ,lost in roasting #cb #f ,the loss in necks of mutton by roasting is about #cb-a_/c per cent4 ,we shall only draw two practical inferences from the foregoing statement4--#ast1 ,in respect of economy1 it is more profitable to boil meat than to roast it4 #b;dly1 ,whether we roast or boil meat1 it loses by being cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight4 ,the loss of roasting arises from the melting out of the fat1 and evaporating the water2 but the nutritious matters remain condensed in the cooked solid4 ,in boiling1 the loss arises partly from the fat melted out1 but chiefly from gelatine and osmazome being extracted and dissolved by the water in which the meat is boiled2 there is1 therefore1 a real loss of nourishment1 unless the broth be used2 when this mode of cooking becomes the most economical4#ga-99 ,the sauces usually sent to table with boiled meat1 c4 ,these are to be sent up in boats1 and never poured over the meat1 c4 ,gravy for boiled meat 7,no4 #cbg47 ,parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa47 ,chervil 7,no4 #bfd47 ,caper 7,no4 #bgd47 ,oyster 7,no4 #bgh47 ,liver and parsley 7,no4 #bhg47 ,celery 7,no4 #bhi47 ,onion 7,no4 #bif1 c47 ,shallot 7,no4 #bie47 ,wow wow 7,no4 #cbh47 ,curry 7,no4 #cdh47 ,,baking4 ,the following observations were written expressly for this work by ,mr4 ,turner1 ,english and ,french bread and biscuit baker4 ,baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of dressing a dinner in small families2 and1 ,i may say1 that the oven is often the only kitchen a poor man has1 if he wishes to enjoy a joint of meat at home with his family4 ,i don't mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to baking2 but some joints1 when baked1 so nearly approach to the same when roasted1 that ,i have known them to be carried to the table1 and eaten as such with great satisfaction4 ,legs and loins of pork1 legs of mutton1 fillets of veal1 and many other joints1 will bake to great advantage1 if the meat be good2 ,i mean well-fed1 rather inclined to be fat3 if the meat be poor1 no baker can give satisfaction4 ,when baking a poor joint of meat1 before it has been half baked ,i have seen it start from the bone1 and shrivel up scarcely to be believed4 ,besides those joints above mentioned1 ,i shall enumerate a few baked dishes which ,i can particularly recommend4 ,a pig1 when sent to the baker prepared for baking1 should have its ears and tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on1 and a bit of butter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back with1 otherwise it will be apt to blister3 with a proper share of attention from the baker1 ,i consider this way equal to a roasted one4 ,a goose prepared the same as for roasting1 taking care to have it on a stand1 and when half done to turn the other side upwards4 ,a duck the same4 ,a buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine4 ,after it has been in salt about a week1 to be well washed1 and put into a brown earthen pan with a pint of water2 cover the pan tight with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper3 never cover any thing that is to be baked with brown paper1 the pitch and tar that is in brown paper will give the meat a smoky1 bad taste3 give it four or five hours in a moderately heated oven4 ,a ham 7if not too old7 put in soak for an hour1 taken out and wiped1 a crust made sufficient to cover it all over1 and baked in a moderately heated oven1 cuts fuller of gravy1 and of a finer flavour1 than a boiled one4 ,i have been in the habit of baking small cod-fish1 haddock1 and mackerel1 with a dust of flour1 and some bits of butter put on them2 eels1 when large and stuffed2 herrings and sprats1 in a brown pan1 with vinegar and a little spice1 and tied over with paper4 ,a hare1 prepared the same as for roasting1 with a few pieces of butter1 and a little drop of milk put into the dish1 and basted several times1 will be found nearly equal to roasting2 or cut it up1 season it properly1 put it into a jar or pan1 and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for about three hours4 ,in the same manner1 ,i have been in the habit of baking legs and shins of beef1 ox cheeks1 c4 prepared with a seasoning of onions1 turnips1 c43 they will take about four hours3 let them stand till cold1 to skim off the fat2 then warm it up all together1 or part1 as you may want it4 ,all these ,i have been in the habit of baking for the first families4 ,the time each of the above articles should take depends much upon the state of the oven1 and ,i do consider the baker a sufficient judge2 if they are sent to him in time1 he must be very neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are ordered4 ,for receipts for making bread1 ,french rolls1 muffins1 crumpets1 ,sally ,lunn1 c41 see the ,appendix4 ,,footnotes3 #ff-99 ,the process by which food is most commonly prepared for the table1 ,,boiling1 is so familiar to every one1 and its effects are so uniform1 and apparently so simple1 that few1 ,i believe1 have taken the trouble to inquire how or in what manner those effects are produced2 and whether any1 and what improvements in that branch of cookery are possible4 ,so little has this matter been an object of inquiry1 that few1 very few indeed1 ,i believe1 among the millions of persons who for so many ages have been daily employed in this process1 have ever given themselves the trouble to bestow one serious thought on the subject4 ,boiling cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel2 but any boiling-hot liquid 7by using proper means for confining the heat7 may be kept boiling-hot for any length of time almost without any expense of fuel at all4 ,the waste of fuel in culinary processes1 which arises from making liquids boil unnecessarily1 or when nothing more would be necessary than to keep them boiling-hot1 is enormous2 ,i have not a doubt but that much more than half the fuel used in all the kitchens1 public and private1 in the whole world1 is wasted precisely in this manner4 ,but the evil does not stop here4 ,this unscientific and slovenly manner of cooking renders the process much more laborious and troublesome than otherwise it would be2 and1 7what by many will be considered of more importance than either the waste of fuel or the increase of labour to the cook7 the food is rendered less savoury1 and very probably less nourishing and less wholesome4 ,it is natural to suppose that many of the finer and more volatile parts of food 7those which are best calculated to act on the organs of taste71 must be carried off with the steam when the boiling is violent4--,count ,,rumford',s #ajth ,essay1 pp4 #c1 #f4 #fg-99 ,if1 unfortunately1 this should happen1 the cook must carefully take it off when she dishes up1 either with a clean sponge or a paste-brush4 #fg- ,cooks1 however1 as well as doctors1 disagree2 for some say1 that all sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the water boils4 ,i prefer the above method for the reason given2 gentle stewing renders meat1 c4 tender1 and still leaves it sapid and nutritive4 #ga-99 ,the diminution of weight by boiling and roasting is not all lost1 the ,,fat ,,skimmings and the ,,drippings1 nicely clarified1 will well supply the place of lard and for frying4 ,see ,no4 #hc1 and the receipt for ,,cheap ,,soup 7,no4 #bbi74 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,roasting4 ,in all studies1 it is the best practice to begin with the plainest and easiest parts2 and so on1 by degrees1 to such as are more difficult3 we1 therefore1 treated of plain boiling1 and we now proceed to roasting3 we shall then gradually unravel to our culinary students the art 7and mystery1 until developed in this work7 of making1 with the least trouble and expense1 the most highly finished soups1 sauces1 and made-dishes4 ,let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief cardinal virtue of the kitchen2 the first preparation for roasting is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and water2 nothing else4 ,when it has been well scoured with this1 dry it with a clean cloth4 ,if spits are wiped clean as soon as the meat is drawn from them1 and while they are hot1 a very little cleaning will be required4 ,the less the spit is passed through the meat the better2#gd-99 and1 before you spit it1 joint it properly1 especially necks and loins1 that the carver may separate them easily and neatly1 and take especial care it be evenly balanced on the spit1 that its motion may be regular1 and the fire operate equally on each part of it2 therefore1 be provided with balancing-skewers and cookholds1 and see it is properly jointed4 ,roasting should be done by the radiant heat of a clear1 glowing fire1 otherwise it is in fact baked3 the machines the economical grate-makers call ,,roasters1 are1 in plain ,english1 ovens4 ,count ,rumford was certainly an exact economist of fuel1 when he contrived these things2 and those philosophers who try all questions according to ,cocker may vote for baked victuals2 but the rational epicure1 who has been accustomed to enjoy beef well roasted1 will soon be convinced that the poet who wrote our national ballad at the end of this chapter1 was not inspired by ,sir ,benjamin ,thompson's cookery4 ,all your attention in roasting will be thrown away1 if you do not take care that your meat1 especially beef1 has been kept long enough to be tender4 ,see ,,advice ,,to ,,cooks1 and obs4 to ,no4 #fh4 ,make up the fire in time2 let it be proportioned to the dinner to be dressed1 and about three or four inches longer at each end than the thing to be roasted1 or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice and brown4 ,a cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the business she has to do1 as a chemist3 the degree of heat most desirable for dressing the different sorts of food ought to be attended to with the utmost precision4 ,the fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin 7,no4 #ai71 will parch up a lighter joint4 ,from half an hour to an hour before you begin to roast1 prepare the fire by putting a few coals on1 which will be sufficiently lighted by the time you wish to make use of your fire2 between the bars1 and on the top1 put small or large coals1 according to the bulk of the joint1 and the time the fire is required to be strong2 after which1 throw the cinders 7wetted7 at the back4 ,never put meat down to a burned-up fire1 if you can possibly avoid it2 but should the fire become fierce1 place the spit at a considerable distance1 and allow a little more time4 ,preserve the fat1#ge-99 by covering it with paper1 for this purpose called kitchen-paper1 and tie it on with fine twine2 pins and skewers can by no means be allowed2 they are so many taps to let out the gravy3 besides1 the paper often starts from them and catches fire1 to the great injury of the meat4 ,if the thing to be roasted be thin and tender1 the fire should be little and brisk3 when you have a large joint to roast1 make up a sound1 strong fire1 equally good in every part of the grate1 or your meat cannot be equally roasted1 nor have that uniform colour which constitutes the beauty of good roasting4 ,give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down2 examine it from time to time while the spit is going round2 keep it clear at the bottom1 and take care there are no smoky coals in the front1 which will spoil the look and taste of the meat1 and hinder it from roasting evenly4 ,when the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the other1 place the spit slanting1 with the thickest part nearest the fire4 ,do not put meat too near the fire at first2 the larger the joint1 the farther it must be kept from the fire3 if once it gets scorched1 the outside will become hard1 and acquire a disagreeable1 empyreumatic taste2 and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it1 the meat will appear done before it is little more than half-done1 besides losing the pale brown colour1 which it is the beauty of roasted meat to have4 ,from #ad to #aj inches is the usual distance at which meat is put from the grate1 when first put down4 ,it is extremely difficult to offer any thing like an accurate general rule for this1 it depends so much upon the size of the fire1 and of that of the thing to be roasted4 ,till some culinary philosopher shall invent a thermometer to ascertain the heat of the fire1 and a graduated spit-rack to regulate the distance from it1 the process of roasting is attended by so many ever-varying circumstances1 that it must remain among those which can only be performed well1 by frequent practice and attentive observation4 ,if you wish your jack to go well1 keep it as clean as possible1 oil it1 and then wipe it3 if the oil is not wiped off again it will gather dust2 to prevent this1 as soon as you have done roasting1 cover it up4 ,never leave the winders on while the jack is going round1 unless you do it1 as ,swift says1 that it may fly off1 and knock those troublesome servants on the head who will be crowding round your kitchen fire4 ,be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance from the fire as just to catch the drippings3 if it is too near1 the ashes will fall into it1 and spoil the drippings#gf-99 7which we shall hereafter show will occasionally be found an excellent substitute for butter or lard74 ,to clarify drippings1 see 7,no4 #hc17 and pease and dripping soup 7,no4 #bbi71 savoury and salubrious1 for only a penny per quart4 ,if it is too far from the fire to catch them1 you will not only lose your drippings1 but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by the foetid smoke1 which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders4 ,a large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes4 ,it should not be less than #bh inches long and #bj inches wide1 and have a covered well on the side from the fire1 to collect the drippings2 this will preserve them in the most delicate state3 in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish1 and various dishes1 to keep hot4 ,this is one of ,painter's and ,hawke's contrivances1 near ,norfolk-street1 ,strand4 ,the time meat will take roasting will vary according to the time it has been kept1 and the temperature of the weather2 the same weight#gg-99 will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in cold weather1#gg- than it will be in warm2 and if fresh killed1 than if it has been kept till it is tender4 ,a good meat-screen is a great saver of fuel4 ,it should be on wheels1 have a flat top1 and not be less than about three feet and a half wide1 and with shelves in it1 about one foot deep2 it will then answer all the purposes of a large ,dutch oven1 plate-warmer1 hot hearth1 c4 ,some are made with a door behind3 this is convenient1 but the great heat they are exposed to soon shrinks the materials1 and the currents of air through the cracks cannot be prevented1 so they are better without the door4 ,we have seen one1 which had on the top of it a very convenient hot closet1 which is a great acquisition in kitchens1 where the dinner waits after it is dressed4 ,every body knows the advantage of slow boiling4 ,slow roasting is equally important4 ,it is difficult to give any specific rule for time2 but if your fire is made as before directed1 your meat-screen sufficiently large to guard what you are dressing from currents of air1 and the meat is not frosted1 you cannot do better than follow the old general rule of allowing rather more than a quarter of an hour to the pound2 a little more or less1 according to the temperature of the weather1 in proportion as the piece is thick or thin1 the strength of the fire1 the nearness of the meat to it1 and the frequency with which you baste it2 the more it is basted the less time it will take1 as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on the outside1 and the fire acts with more force upon it4 ,reckon the time1 not to the hour when dinner is ordered1 but to the moment the roasts will be wanted4 ,supposing there are a dozen people to sip soup and eat fish first1 you may allow them ten or fifteen minutes for the former1 and about as long for the latter1 more or less1 according to the temptations the ,,bon ,,gout of these preceding courses has to attract their attention4 ,when the joint is half done1 remove the spit and dripping-pan back1 and stir up your fire thoroughly1 that it may burn clear and bright for the browning2 when the steam from the meat draws towards the fire1#gh-99 it is a sign of its being done enough2 but you will be the best judge of that1 from the time it has been down1 the strength of the fire you have used1 and the distance your spit has been from it4 ,half an hour before your meat is done1 make some gravy 7see ,receipt1 ,no4 #cbf72 and just before you take it up1 put it nearer the fire to brown it4 ,if you wish to froth it1 baste it1 and dredge it with flour carefully3 you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light4 ,the common fault seems to be using too much flour4 ,the meat should have a fine light varnish of froth1 not the appearance of being covered with a paste4 ,those who are particular about the froth use butter instead of drippings2 7see receipt to roast a turkey1 ,no4 #eg7-- ,and send up what you roast with relish-giving froth1 says ,dr4 ,king1 and present such an agreeable appearance to the eye1 that the palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight2 therefore1 have the whole course dished1 before roasts are taken from the fire4 ,a good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and colour of her roasts1 as a court beauty is to her complexion at a birthday ball4 ,if your meat does not brown so much1 or so evenly as you wish1 take two ounces of ,glaze1 i4 e4 portable soup1 put four table-spoonfuls of water1 and let it warm and dissolve gradually by the side of the fire4 ,this will be done in about a quarter of an hour2 put it on the meat equally all over with a paste-brush the last thing before it goes to table4 ,though roasting is one of the most common1 and is generally considered one of the most easy and simple processes of cookery1 it requires more unremitting attention to perform it perfectly well than it does to make most made-dishes4 ,that made-dishes are the most difficult preparations1 deserves to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors2 in plain roasting and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake once made2 and all the discretion and attention of a steady1 careful cook1 must be unremittingly upon the alert4#gh- ,a diligent attention to time1 the distance of the meat from1 and judicious management of1 the fire1 and frequent bastings1#gi-99 are all the general rules we can prescribe4 ,we shall deliver particular rules for particular things1 as the several articles occur1 and do our utmost endeavours to instruct our reader as completely as words can describe the process1 and teach ,the management of common things so well1 ,that what was thought the meanest shall excel3 ,that cook's to ,british palates most complete1 ,whose sav'ry skill gives zest to common meat3 ,for what are soups1 your ragots1 and your sauce1 ,compared to the fare of ,,old ,,england1 ,and ,,old ,,english ,,roast ,,beef6 99 ,,take ,,notice1 that the ,,time given in the following receipts is calculated for those who like meat thoroughly roasted4 7,see ,n4,b4 preceding ,no4 #ai47 ,some good housewives order very large joints to be rather under-done1 as they then make a better hash or broil4 ,to make gravy for roast1 see ,no4 #cbf4 ,n4,b4 ,roasts must not be put on1 till the soup and fish are taken off the table4 ,,dredgings4 #a4 ,flour mixed with grated bread4 #b4 ,sweet herbs dried and powdered1 and mixed with grated bread4 #c4 ,lemon-peel dried and pounded1 or orange-peel1 mixed with flour4 #d4 ,sugar finely powdered1 and mixed with pounded cinnamon1 and flour or grated bread4 #e4 ,fennel-seeds1 corianders1 cinnamon1 and sugar1 finely beaten1 and mixed with grated bread or flour4 #f4 ,for young pigs1 grated bread or flour1 mixed with beaten nutmeg1 ginger1 pepper1 sugar1 and yelks of eggs4 #g4 ,sugar1 bread1 and salt1 mixed4 ,,bastings4 #a4 ,fresh butter4 #b4 ,clarified suet4 #c4 ,minced sweet herbs1 butter1 and claret1 especially for mutton and lamb4 #d4 ,water and salt4 #e4 ,cream and melted butter1 especially for a flayed pig4 #f4 ,yelks of eggs1 grated biscuit1 and juice of oranges4 ,,footnotes3 #gd-99 ,small families have not always the convenience of roasting with a spit2 a remark upon ,,roasting ,,by ,a ,,string is necessary4 ,let the cook1 before she puts her meat down to the fire1 pass a strong skewer through each end of the joint3 by this means1 when it is about half-done1 she can with ease turn the bottom upwards2 the gravy will then flow to the part which has been uppermost1 and the whole joint be deliciously gravyful4 ,a ,,bottle ,,jack1 as it is termed by the furnishing ironmongers1 is a valuable instrument for roasting4 ,a ,,dutch ,,oven is another very convenient utensil for roasting light joints1 or warming them up4 #ge-99 ,if there is more ,,fat than you think will be eaten with the lean1 trim it off2 it will make an excellent ,,pudding 7,no4 #eea1 or #eed73 or clarify it 7,no4 #hc74 #gf-99 ,this the good housewife will take up occasionally1 and pass through a sieve into a stone pan2 by leaving it all in the dripping-pan until the meat is taken up1 it not only becomes very strong1 but when the meat is rich1 and yields much of it1 it is apt to be spilt in basting4 ,to ,,clarify ,,drippings1 see ,no4 #hc4 #gg-99 ,insist upon the butcher fixing a ,,ticket of the weight to each joint4 #gg- ,,if ,,the ,,meat ,,is ,,frozen1 the usual practice is to put it into cold water till it is thawed1 then dry and roast it as usual2 but we recommend you to bring it into the kitchen the night before1 or early in the morning of the day you want to roast it1 and the warm air will thaw it much better4 #gh-99 ,when the steam begins to arise1 it is a proof that the whole joint is thoroughly saturated with heat2 any unnecessary evaporation is a waste of the best nourishment of the meat4 #gh- ,a celebrated ,french writer has given us the following observations on roasting3-- ,the art of roasting victuals to the precise degree1 is one of the most difficult in this world2 and you may find half a thousand good cooks sooner than one perfect roaster4 7,see ',almanach des ,gourmands1' vol4 i4 p4 #cg47 ,in the mansions of the opulent1 they have1 besides the master kitchener1 a roaster1 7perfectly independent of the former17 who is exclusively devoted to the spit4 ,all erudite gourmands know that these two important functions cannot be performed by one artist2 it is quite impossible at the same time to superintend the operations of the spit and stewpan4--,further on1 the same author observes3 ,no certain rules can be given for roasting1 the perfection of it depending on many circumstances which are continually changing2 the age and size 7especially the thickness7 of the pieces1 the quality of the coals1 the temperature of the atmosphere1 the currents of air in the kitchen1 the more or less attention of the roaster2 and1 lastly1 the time of serving4 ,supposing the dinner ordered to be on table at a certain time1 if the fish and soup are much liked1 and detained longer than the roaster has calculated2 or1 on the contrary1 if they are despatched sooner than is expected1 the roasts will in one case be burnt up1 in the other not done enough--two misfortunes equally to be deplored4 ,the first1 however1 is without a remedy2 five minutes on the spit1 more or less1 decides the goodness of this mode of cookery4 ,it is almost impossible to seize the precise instant when it ought to be eaten2 which epicures in roasts express by saying1 ',it is done to a turn4' ,so that there is no exaggeration in saying1 the perfect roaster is even more rare than the professed cook4 ,in small families1 where the cook is also the roaster1 it is almost impossible the roasts should be well done3 the spit claims exclusive attention1 and is an imperious mistress who demands the entire devotion of her slave4 ,but how can this be1 when the cook is obliged1 at the same time1 to attend her fish and soup-kettles1 and watch her stewpans and all their accompaniments8--it is morally and physically impossible3 if she gives that delicate and constant attention to the roasts which is indispensably requisite1 the rest of the dinner must often be spoiled2 and most cooks would rather lose their character as a roaster1 than neglect the made-dishes and 'entremets1' c41 where they think they can display their culinary science1--than sacrifice these to the roasts1 the perfection of which will only prove their steady vigilance and patience4 #gi-99 ,our ancestors were very particular in their ,,bastings and ,,dredgings1 as will be seen by the following quotation from ,,may',s ,accomplished ,cook1 ,london1 #affe1 p4 #acf4 ,the rarest ways of dressing of all manner of roast meats1 either flesh or fowl1 by sea or land1 and divers ways of braiding or dredging meats to prevent the gravy from too much evaporating4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,frying4 ,frying is often a convenient mode of cookery2 it may be performed by a fire which will not do for roasting or boiling2 and by the introduction of the pan between the meat and the fire1 things get more equally dressed4 ,the ,dutch oven or bonnet is another very convenient utensil for small things1 and a very useful substitute for the jack1 the gridiron1 or frying-pan4 ,a frying-pan should be about four inches deep1 with a perfectly flat and thick bottom1 #ab inches long and #i broad1 with perpendicular sides1 and must be half filled with fat3 good frying is1 in fact1 boiling in fat4 ,to make sure that the pan is quite clean1 rub a little fat over it1 and then make it warm1 and wipe it out with a clean cloth4 ,be very particular in frying1 never to use any oil1 butter1 lard1 or drippings1 but what is quite clean1 fresh1 and free from salt4 ,any thing dirty spoils the look2 any thing bad-tasted or stale1 spoils the flavour2 and salt prevents its browning4 ,fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying2 but the best oil is expensive1 and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it4 ,for general purposes1 and especially for fish1 clean fresh lard is not near so expensive as oil or clarified butter1 and does almost as well4 ,butter often burns before you are aware of it2 and what you fry will get a dark and dirty appearance4 ,cooks in large kitchens1 where there is a great deal of frying1 commonly use mutton or beef suet clarified 7see ,no4 #hd73 if from the kidney1 all the better4 ,dripping1 if nicely clean and fresh1 is almost as good as any thing2 if not clean1 it may be easily clarified 7see ,no4 #hc74 ,whatever fat you use1 after you have done frying1 let it remain in the pan for a few minutes1 and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin2 it will do three or four times as well as it did at first1 i4 e4 if it has not burned3 but1 ,mem4 the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for any other purpose4 ,to know when the fat is of a proper heat1 according to what you are to fry1 is the great secret in frying4 ,to fry fish1 parsley1 potatoes1 or any thing that is watery1 your fire must be very clear1 and the fat quite hot2 which you may be pretty sure of1 when it has done hissing1 and is still4 ,we cannot insist too strongly on this point3 if the fat is not very hot1 you cannot fry fish either to a good colour1 or firm and crisp4 ,to be quite certain1 throw a little bit of bread into the pan2 if it fries crisp1 the fat is ready2 if it burns the bread1 it is too hot4 ,the fire under the pan must be clear and sharp1 otherwise the fat is so long before it becomes ready1 and demands such attendance to prevent the accident of its catching fire1#ha-99 that the patience of cooks is exhausted1 and they frequently1 from ignorance or impatience1 throw in what they are going to fry before the fat is half hot enough4 ,whatever is so fried will be pale and sodden1 and offend the palate and stomach not less than the eye4 ,have a good light to fry by1 that you may see when you have got the right colour3 a lamp fixed on a stem1 with a loaded foot1 which has an arm that lengthens out1 and slides up and down like a reading candlestick1 is a most useful appendage to kitchen fireplaces1 which are very seldom light enough for the nicer operations of cookery4 ,after all1 if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you have fried1 especially from those things that are full dressed in bread crumbs1#hb-99 or biscuit powder1 c41 your cooking will do you no credit4 ,the dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in fat of a due degree of heat2 it is then crisp and dry in a few minutes after it is taken out of the pan3 when it is not1 lay it on a soft cloth before the fire1 turning it occasionally1 till it is4 ,this will sometimes take #ae minutes3 therefore1 always fry fish as long as this before you want them1 for fear you may find this necessary4 ,to fry fish1 see receipt to fry soles1 7,no4 #ade7 which is the only circumstantial account of the process that has yet been printed4 ,if the cook will study it with a little attention1 she must soon become an accomplished frier4 ,frying1 though one of the most common of culinary operations1 is one that is least commonly performed perfectly well4 ,,footnotes3 #ha-99 ,if this unfortunately happens1 be not alarmed1 but immediately wet a basket of ashes and throw them down the chimney1 and wet a blanket and hold it close all round the fireplace2 as soon as the current of air is stopped1 the fire will be extinguished2 with a ,,charcoal ,,stove there is no danger1 as the diameter of the pan exceeds that of the fire4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,broiling4 ,and as now there is nought on the fire that is spoiling1 ,we'll give you just two or three hints upon broiling2 ,how oft you must turn a beefsteak1 and how seldom ,a good mutton chop1 for to have 'em both well done2 ,and for skill in such cookery your credit 't will fetch up1 ,if your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom catchup4 ,cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery4 ,keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars1 and bright on the top3 when it is hot1 wipe it well with a linen cloth3 just before you use it1 rub the bars with clean mutton-suet1 to prevent the meat from being marked by the gridiron4 ,take care to prepare your fire in time1 so that it may burn quite clear3 a brisk and clear fire is indispensable1 or you cannot give your meat that browning which constitutes the perfection of this mode of cookery1 and gives a relish to food it cannot receive any other way4 ,the chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness2 if thicker1 they will be done too much on the outside before the inside is done enough4 ,be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing is done3 never hasten any thing that is broiling1 lest you make smoke and spoil it4 ,let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through1 but yet not burning hot upon the surface3 this is the perfect and fine condition of the gridiron4 ,as the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers1 it is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the thing to be cooked be laid on them4 ,the bars of gridirons should be made concave1 and terminate in a trough to catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into the fire and making a smoke1 which will spoil the broil4 ,upright gridirons are the best1 as they can be used at any fire without fear of smoke2 and the gravy is preserved in the trough under them4 ,n4,b4 ,broils must be brought to table as hot as possible2 set a dish to heat when you put your chops on the gridiron1 from whence to the mouth their progress must be as quick as possible4 ,when the fire is not clear1 the business of the gridiron may be done by the ,dutch oven or bonnet4 ,,footnotes3 #hb-99 ,when you want a great many ,,bread ,,crumbs1 divide your loaf 7which should be two days old7 into three equal parts2 take the middle or crumb piece1 the top and bottom will do for table3 in the usual way of cutting1 the crust is wasted4 ,,oatmeal is a very satisfactory1 and an extremely economical substitute for bread crumbs4 ,see ,no4 #ade4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,vegetables4 ,there is nothing in which the difference between an elegant and an ordinary table is more seen than in the dressing of vegetables1 more especially greens4 ,they may be equally as fine at first1 at one place as at another2 but their look and taste are afterward very different1 entirely from the careless way in which they have been cooked4 ,they are in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty1 i4 e4 when in full season4 ,by season1 ,i do not mean those early days1 that luxury in the buyers1 and avarice in the sellers1 force the various vegetables2 but that time of the year in which by nature and common culture1 and the mere operation of the sun and climate1 they are in most plenty and perfection4 ,potatoes and pease are seldom worth eating before midsummer2 unripe vegetables are as insipid and unwholesome as unripe fruits4 ,as to the quality of vegetables1 the middle size are preferred to the largest or the smallest2 they are more tender1 juicy1 and full of flavour1 just before they are quite full-grown4 ,freshness is their chief value and excellence1 and ,i should as soon think of roasting an animal alive1 as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead4 ,the eye easily discovers if they have been kept too long2 they soon lose their beauty in all respects4 ,roots1 greens1 salads1 c4 and the various productions of the garden1 when first gathered1 are plump and firm1 and have a fragrant freshness no art can give them again1 when they have lost it by long keeping2 though it will refresh them a little to put them into cold spring water for some time before they are dressed4 ,to boil them in soft water will preserve the colour best of such as are green2 if you have only hard water1 put to it a tea-spoonful of carbonate of potash4#hd-99 ,take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust1 dirt1 and insects3 this requires great attention4 ,pick off all the outside leaves1 trim them nicely1 and1 if not quite fresh gathered and have become flaccid1 it is absolutely necessary to restore their crispness before cooking them1 or they will be tough and unpleasant3 lay them in a pan of clean water1 with a handful of salt in it1 for an hour before you dress them4 ,most vegetables being more or less succulent1 their full proportion of fluids is necessary for their retaining that state of crispness and plumpness which they have when growing4 ,on being cut or gathered1 the exhalation from their surface continues1 while1 from the open vessels of the cut surface1 there is often great exudation or evaporation2 and thus their natural moisture is diminished1 the tender leaves become flaccid1 and the thicker masses or roots lose their plumpness4 ,this is not only less pleasant to the eye1 but is a real injury to the nutritious powers of the vegetable2 for in this flaccid and shrivelled state its fibres are less easily divided in chewing1 and the water which exists in vegetable substances1 in the form of their respective natural juices1 is directly nutritious4 ,the first care in the preservation of succulent vegetables1 therefore1 is to prevent them from losing their natural moisture4--,suppl4 to ,edin4 ,encyclop4 vol4 iv4 p4 #cce4 ,they should always be boiled in a sauce-pan by themselves1 and have plenty of water2 if meat is boiled with them in the same pot1 they will spoil the look and taste of each other4 ,if you wish to have vegetables delicately clean1 put on your pot1 make it boil1 put a little salt in it1 and skim it perfectly clean before you put in the greens1 c42 which should not be put in till the water boils briskly3 the quicker they boil1 the greener they will be4 ,when the vegetables sink1 they are generally done enough1 if the water has been kept constantly boiling4 ,take them up immediately1 or they will lose their colour and goodness4 ,drain the water from them thoroughly before you send them to table4 ,this branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention4 ,if vegetables are a minute or two too long over the fire1 they lose all their beauty and flavour4 ,if not thoroughly boiled tender1 they are tremendously indigestible1 and much more troublesome during their residence in the stomach1 than under-done meats4#he-99 ,to preserve or give colour in cookery1 many good dishes are spoiled2 but the rational epicure who makes nourishment the main end of eating1 will be content to sacrifice the shadow to enjoy the substance4 ,vide ,obs4 to ,no4 #cbb4 ,once for all1 take care your vegetables are fresh3 for as the fishmonger often suffers for the sins of the cook1 so the cook often gets undeservedly blamed instead of the green-grocer4 ,vegetables1 in this metropolis1 are often kept so long1 that no art can make them either look or eat well4 ,strong-scented vegetables should be kept apart2 leeks1 or celery1 laid among cauliflowers1 c4 will quickly spoil them4 ,succulent vegetables are best preserved in a cool1 shady1 and damp place4 ,potatoes1 turnips1 carrots1 and similar roots1 intended to be stored up1 should never be cleaned from the earth adhering to them1 till they are to be dressed4 ,they must be protected from the action of the air and frost1 by laying them in heaps1 burying them in sand or earth1 c41 or covering them with straw or mats4 ,the action of frost destroys the life of the vegetable1 and it speedily rots4--,suppl4 to ,edin4 ,encyclop4 vol4 iv4 p4 #cce4 ,,mem4--,when vegetables are quite fresh gathered1 they will not require so much boiling1 by at least a third of the time1 as when they have been gathered the usual time those are that are brought to public markets4 ,,footnotes3 #hd-99 ,perlash is a sub-carbonate1 and will answer the purpose4 ,it is a common article in the kitchen of the ,american housekeeper4 ,a4 #he-99 ,,cauliflowers and other vegetables are often boiled only crisp to preserve their beauty4 ,for the look alone they had better not be boiled at all1 and almost as well for the use1 as in this crude state they are scarcely digestible by the strongest stomach4 ,on the other hand1 when over-boiled1 they become vapid1 and in a state similar to decay1 in which they afford no sweet purifying juices to the body1 but load it with a mass of mere feculent matter4--,domestic ,management1 #abmo4 #ahac1 p4 #fi4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fish4 ,this department of the business of the kitchen requires considerable experience1 and depends more upon practice than any other4 ,a very few moments1 more or less1 will thoroughly spoil fish2#hf-99 which1 to be eaten in perfection1 must never be put on the table till the soup is taken off4 ,so many circumstances operate on this occasion1 that it is almost impossible to write general rules4 ,there are decidedly different opinions1 whether fish should be put into cold1 tepid1 or boiling water4 ,we believe1 for some of the fame the ,dutch cooks have acquired1 they are a little indebted to their situation affording them a plentiful supply of fresh fish for little more than the trouble of catching it2 and that the superior excellence of the fish in ,holland1 is because none are used1 unless they are brought alive into the kitchen 7mackerel excepted1 which die the moment they are taken out of the water74 ,the ,dutch are as nice about this as ,seneca says the ,romans#hf- were2 who1 complaining of the luxury of the times1 says1 ,they are come to that daintiness1 that they will not eat a fish1 unless upon the same day that it is taken1 that it may taste of the sea1 as they express it4 ,on the ,dutch flat coast1 the fish are taken with nets3 on our rocky coast1 they are mostly caught by bait and hook1 which instantly kills them4 ,fish are brought alive by land to the ,dutch markets1 in water casks with air-holes in the top4 ,salmon1 and other fish1 are thus preserved in rivers1 in a well-hole in the fishing-boat4 ,all kinds of fish are best some time before they begin to spawn2 and are unfit for food for some time after they have spawned4 ,fish1 like animals1 are fittest for the table when they are just full grown2 and what has been said in ,chapter ,v4 respecting vegetables1 applies equally well to fish4 ,the most convenient utensil to boil fish in1 is a turbot-kettle4 ,this should be #bd inches long1 #bb wide1 and #i deep4 ,it is an excellent vessel to boil a ham in1 c4 c4 ,the good folks of this metropolis are so often disappointed by having fish which has been kept too long1 that they are apt to run into the other extreme1 and suppose that fish will not dress well unless it is absolutely alive4 ,this is true of lobsters1 c4 7,no4 #agf71 and may be of fresh-water fish1 but certainly not of some sea-fish4 ,several respectable fishmongers and experienced cooks have assured the editor1 that they are often in danger of losing their credit by fish too fresh1 and especially turbot and cod1 which1 like meat1 require a certain time before they are in the best condition to be dressed4 ,they recommend them to be put into cold water1 salted in proportion of about a quarter of a pound of salt to a gallon of water4 ,sea-water is best to boil sea-fish in4 ,it not only saves the expense of salt1 but the flavour is better4 ,let them boil slowly till done2 the sign of which is1 that the skin of the fish rises up1 and the eyes turn white4 ,it is the business of the fishmonger to clean them1 c4 but the careful cook will always wash them again4 ,garnish with slices of lemon1 finely scraped horseradish1 fried oysters 7,no4 #ahc71 smelts 7,no4 #agc71 whitings 7,no4 #aec71 or strips of soles1 as directed in ,no4 #ade4 ,the liver1 roe1 and chitterlings should be placed so that the carver may observe them1 and invite the guests to partake of them4 ,n4,b4 ,,fish1 like meat1 requires more cooking in cold than in warm weather4 ,if it becomes ,,frozen1#hh-99 it must be thawed by the means we have directed for meat1 in the #b;d chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,fish are plenty and good1 and in great variety1 in all the towns and cities on the extensive coast of the ,united ,states4 ,some of the interior towns are also supplied with fish peculiar to the lakes and rivers of this country4 ,a4 ,,fish ,,sauces4 ,the melted butter 7,no4 #bef7 for fish1 should be thick enough to adhere to the fish1 and1 therefore1 must be of the thickness of light batter1 as it is to be diluted with essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 soy 7,no4 #dcf71 mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci74 ,cayenne 7,no4 #djd71 or ,chili vinegar 7,no4 #dje71 lemons or lemon-juice1 or artificial lemon-juice1 7see ,no4 #djg9971 c4 which are expected at all well-served tables4 ,cooks1 who are jealous of the reputation of their taste1 and housekeepers who value their health1 will prepare these articles at home3 there are quite as many reasons why they should1 as there are for the preference usually given to home-baked bread and home-brewed beer1 c4 ,n4,b4 ,the liver of the fish pounded and mixed with butter1 with a little lemon-juice1 c4 is an elegant and inoffensive relish to fish 7see ,no4 #bhh74 ,mushroom sauce extempore 7,no4 #cjg71 or the soup of mock turtle 7,no4 #bdg71 will make an excellent fish sauce4 ,on the comparatively nutritive qualities of fish1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #aha4 ,,footnotes3 #hf-99 ,when the cook has large dinners to prepare1 and the time of serving uncertain1 she will get more credit by ,,fried 7see ,no4 #ade71 or stewed 7see ,no4 #afd71 than by ,,boiled fish4 ,it is also cheaper1 and much sooner carved 7see ,no4 #ade74 ,mr4 ,ude1 page #bch of his cookery1 advises1 ,if you are obliged to wait after the fish is done1 do not let it remain in the water1 but keep the water boiling1 and put the fish over it1 and cover it with a damp cloth2 when the dinner is called for1 dip the fish again in the water1 and serve it up4 ,the only circumstantial instructions yet printed for ,,frying ,,fish1 the reader will find in ,no4 #ade2 if this be carefully and nicely attended to1 you will have delicious food4 #hf- ,they had salt-water preserves for feeding different kinds of sea-fish2 those in the ponds of ,lucullus1 at his death1 sold for #be1jjjl4 sterling4 ,the prolific power of fish is wonderful3 the following calculations are from ,petit1 ,block1 and ,leuwenhoeck3-- ,eggs4 ,a salmon of #bj pounds weight contained #bg1hej ,a middling-sized pike #adh1jjj ,a mackerel #edf1fha ,a cod #i1cdd1jjj ,see ,cours ,gastronomiques1 #ahmo4 #ahjf1 p4 #bda4 #hh-99 ,fish are very frequently sent home frozen by the fishmonger1 to whom an ice-house is now as necessary an appendage 7to preserve fish17 as it is to a confectioner4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,broths ,,and ,,soups4 ,the cook must pay continual attention to the condition of her stew-pans#hi-99 and soup-kettles1 c4 which should be examined every time they are used4 ,the prudent housewife will carefully examine the condition of them herself at least once a month4 ,their covers also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned1 and the stew-pans not only on the inside1 but about a couple of inches on the outside3 many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair2 and if not kept nicely tinned1 all your good work will be in vain2 the broths and soups will look green and dirty1 taste bitter and poisonous1 and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate1 and your credit will be lost4 ,the health1 and even life of the family1 depends upon this1 and the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman's bill than the doctor's2 therefore1 attention to this cannot fail to engage the regard of the mistress1 between whom and the cook it will be my utmost endeavour to promote perfect harmony4 ,if a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her pan1#hi- which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook1 ,i advise her1 by all means1 immediately to acquaint her employers1 who will thank her for candidly mentioning an accident2 and censure her deservedly if she conceal it4 ,take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths1 spoons and ladles4 ,make it a rule without an exception1 never to use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried1 nor any stewpans1 c4 without first washing them out with boiling water1 and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran1 to clean them from grease1 sand1 c41 or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used3 never neglect this4 ,though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut as to wilfully neglect her broth-pots1 c41 yet we may recommend her to wash them immediately1 and take care they are thoroughly dried at the fire1 before they are put by1 and to keep them in a dry place1 for damp will rust and destroy them very soon3 attend to this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up4 ,never put by any soup1 gravy1 c4 in metal utensils2 in which never keep any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of cookery2 the acid1 vegetables1 fat1 c4 employed in making soups1 c4 are capable of dissolving such utensils2 therefore stone or earthen vessels should be used for this purpose4 ,stew-pans1 soup-pots1 and preserving pans1 with thick and round bottoms 7such as sauce-pans are made with71 will wear twice as long1 and are cleaned with half the trouble1 as those whose sides are soldered to the bottom1 of which sand and grease get into the joined part1 and cookeys say that it is next to an impossibility to dislodge it1 even if their nails are as long as ,nebuchadnezzar's4 ,the ,editor claims the credit bf having first suggested the importance of this construction of these utensils4 ,take care that the lids fit as close as possible1 that the broth1 soup1 and sauces1 c4 may not waste by evaporation4 ,they are good for nothing1 unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in and the smoke out4 ,stew-pans and sauce-pans should be always bright on the upper rim1 where the fire does not burn them2 but to scour them all over is not only giving the cook needless trouble1 but wearing out the vessels4 ,see observations on sauce-pans in ,chapter ,i4 ,cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness1 c4 in all your business1 which you will then get through easily and comfortably4 ,i do not mean the restless spirit of ,molidusta1 the ,tidy ,one1 who is anon1 anon1 ,sir1 frisking about in a whirlpool of bustle and confusion1 and is always dirty1 under pretence of being always cleaning4 ,lean1 juicy beef1 mutton1 or veal1 form the basis of broth2 procure those pieces which afford the richest succulence1 and as fresh killed as possible4#ij-99 ,stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted1 and fat meat is wasted4 ,this only applies to those broths which are required to be perfectly clear3 we shall show hereafter 7in ,no4 #bbi71 that fat and clarified drippings may be so combined with vegetable mucilage1 as to afford1 at the small cost of one penny per quart1 a nourishing and palatable soup1 fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength3 this will open a new source to those benevolent housekeepers1 who are disposed to relieve the poor1 will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist themselves1 and rescue them from being objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty of others1 by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap1 abundant1 salubrious1 and agreeable aliment for themselves and families4 ,this soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon made1 with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room4 ,those who have not tasted it1 cannot imagine what a salubrious1 savoury1 and satisfying meal is produced by the judicious combination of cheap homely ingredients4 ,scotch barley broth 7,no4 #bjd7 will furnish a good dinner of soup and meat for fivepence per head1 pease soup 7,no4 #bba7 will cost only sixpence per quart1 ox-tail soup 7,no4 #bdj7 or the same portable soup 7,no4 #beb71 for fivepence per quart1 and 7,no4 #bbd7 an excellent gravy soup for fourpence halfpenny per quart1 duck-giblet soup 7,no4 #bdd7 for threepence per quart1 and fowls' head soup in the same manner for still less 7,no4 #bci71 will give you a good and plentiful dinner for six people for two shillings and twopence4 ,see also shin of beef stewed 7,no4 #dic71 and -la-mode beef 7,no4 #ejb74 ,,broth ,,herbs1 ,,soup ,,roots1 ,,and ,,seasonings4 ,scotch barley 7,no4 #bjd74 ,pearl barley4 ,flour4 ,,oatmeal 7,no4 #egb74 ,bread4 ,raspings4 ,pease 7,no4 #bah74 ,beans4 ,rice 7,no4 #cba9974 ,vermicelli4 ,macaroni 7,no4 #eac74 ,isinglass4 ,potato mucilage 7,no4 #ddh74 ,mushrooms#ia-99 7,no4 #dci74 ,champignons4 ,parsnips 7,no4 #bac74 ,carrots 7,no4 #bab74 ,beet-roots4 ,turnips 7,no4 #bjh74 ,garlic4 ,shallots1 7,no4 #djb47 ,onions4#ia- ,leeks4 ,cucumber4#ib-99 ,celery 7,no4 #bad74 ,,celery ,,seed4#ib- ,cress-seed1#ib- 7,no4 #cig74 ,parsley1#ib- 7,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bfa47 ,common thyme4#ib- ,lemon thyme4#ib- ,orange thyme4#ib- ,knotted marjorum#ib- 7,no4 #dag74 ,sage4#ib- ,mint 7,no4 #cih74 ,winter savoury4#ib- ,sweet basil#ib- 7,no4 #cig74 ,bay leaves4 ,tomata4 ,tarragon 7,no4 #cif74 ,chervil4 ,burnet 7,no4 #cii74 ,,allspice#ib- 7,no4 #dab74 ,cinnamon#ib- 7,no4 #daf9974 ,ginger#ib- 7,no4 #daa74 ,nutmeg4#ib- ,clove 7,no4 #dad74 ,mace4 ,black pepper4 ,lemon-peel 7,no4 #djg #djh47 ,white pepper4 ,lemon-juice4#ib- ,seville orange-juice4#ib- ,essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,the above materials1 wine1 and mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 combined in various proportions1 will make an endless variety#ic-99 of excellent broths and soups1 quite as pleasant to the palate1 and as useful and agreeable to the stomach1 as consuming pheasants and partridges1 and the long list of inflammatory1 piquante1 and rare and costly articles1 recommended by former cookery-book makers1 whose elaborately compounded soups are like their made dishes2 in which1 though variety is aimed at1 every thing has the same taste1 and nothing its own4 ,the general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of an excess of spice1 and too small a portion of roots and herbs4#ic- ,besides the ingredients ,i have enumerated1 many culinary scribes indiscriminately cram into almost every dish 7in such inordinate quantities1 one would suppose they were working for the asbestos palate of an ,indian fire-eater7 anchovies1 garlic1#ic- bay-leaves1 and that hot1 fiery spice1 ,cayenne#ic- pepper2 this1 which the ,french call 7not undeservedly7 piment enrag 7,no4 #djd71 has1 somehow or other1 unaccountably acquired a character for being very wholesome2 while the milder peppers and spices are cried down1 as destroying the sensibility of the palate and stomach1 c41 and being the source of a thousand mischiefs4 ,we should just as soon recommend alcohol as being less intoxicating than wine4 ,the best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is1 that with all kinds of vegetables1 as also with soups 7especially vegetable soups7 and fish1 either black or ,cayenne pepper may be taken freely3 they are the most useful stimulants to old stomachs1 and often supersede the cravings for strong drinks2 or diminish the quantity otherwise required4 ,see ,sir ,a4 ,,carlisle on ,old ,age1 ,london1 #ahag4 ,a certain portion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite and keep up the languid action of feeble and advanced life3 we must increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system increases4 ,we leave those who love these things to use them as they like2 their flavours can be very extemporaneously produced by chilly-juice1 or essence of ,cayenne 7,no4 #dje71 eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 and essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,there is no ,french dinner without soup1 which is regarded as an indispensable overture2 it is commonly followed by le coup d',aprs1 a glass of pure wine1 which they consider so wholesome after soup1 that their proverb says1 the physician thereby loses a fee4 ,whether the glass of wine be so much more advantageous for the patient than it is for his doctor1 we know not1 but believe it an excellent plan to begin the banquet with a basin of good soup1 which1 by moderating the appetite for solid animal food1 is certainly a salutiferous custom4 ,between the roasts and the entremets they introduce le coup du ,milieu or a small glass of ,jamaica rum1 or essence of punch 7see ,no4 #dga71 or ,,curacao 7,no4 #dgd74 ,the introduction of liqueurs is by no means a modern custom3 our ancestors were very fond of a highly spiced stimulus of this sort1 commonly called ,ipocrasse1 which generally made a part of the last course1 or was taken immediately after dinner4 ,the crafte to make ypocras4 ,take a quarte of red wyne1 an ounce of synamon1 and halfe an ounce of gynger2 a quarter of an ounce of greynes 7probably of paradise7 and long pepper1 and halfe a pounde of sugar2 and brose 7bruise7 all this 7not too small71 and then put them in a bage 7bag7 of wullen clothe1 made1 therefore1 with the wynee2 and lete it hange over a vessel1 till the wynee be run thorowe4--,an extract from ,arnold's ,chronicle4 ,it is a custom which almost universally prevails in the northern parts of ,europe1 to present a dram or glass of liqueur1 before sitting down to dinner3 this answers the double purpose of a whet to the appetite1 and an announcement that dinner is on the point of being served up4 ,along with the dram1 are presented on a waiter1 little square pieces of cheese1 slices of cold tongue1 dried tongue1 and dried toast1 accompanied with fresh caviar4 ,we again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning1 especially with predominant flavours1 which1 however agreeable they may be to some1 are extremely disagreeable to others4 ,see page #ej4 ,zest 7,no4 #bee71 soy 7,no4 #dcf71 cavice1 coratch1 anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 savoury ragot powder 7,no4 #deg71 soup herb powder 7,no4 #dei and #dfj71 browning 7,no4 #cbb71 catchups 7,no4 #dcb71 pickle liquor1 beer1 wine1 and sweet herbs1 and savoury spice 7,no4 #dfj71 are very convenient auxiliaries to finish soups1 c4 ,the proportion of wine 7formerly sack1 then claret1 now ,madeira or port7 should not exceed a large wine-glassful to a quart of soup4 ,this is as much as can be admitted1 without the vinous flavour becoming remarkably predominant2 though not only much larger quantities of wine 7of which claret is incomparably the best1 because it contains less spirit and more flavour1 and ,english palates are less acquainted with it71 but even vritable eau de vie is ordered in many books1 and used by many 7especially tavern cooks74 ,so much are their soups overloaded with relish1 that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly make you drunk1 if they don't make you sick3 all this frequently arises from an old cook measuring the excitability of the eater's palates by his own1 which may be so blunted by incessant tasting1 that to awaken it1 requires wine instead of water1 and ,cayenne and garlic for black pepper and onion4 ,old cooks are as fond of spice1 as children are of sugar1 and season soup1 which is intended to constitute a principal part of a meal1 as highly as sauce1 of which only a spoonful may be relish enough for a plate of insipid viands4 7,see obs4 to ,no4 #cee47 ,however1 we fancy these large quantities of wine1 c4 are oftener ordered in cookery books than used in the kitchen3 practical cooks have the health of their employers too much at heart1 and love sauce la langue too well to overwine their soup1 c4 ,truffles and morels#ie-99 are also set down as a part of most receipts4 ,these1 in their green state1 have a very rich high flavour1 and are delicious additions to some dishes1 or sent up as a stew by themselves when they are fresh and fine2 but in this state they are not served up half a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom3 when dried they become mere chips in pottage1 and serve only to soak up good gravy1 from which they take more taste than they give4 ,the art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the several ingredients one to another1 that no particular taste be stronger than the rest1 but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that the whole is delightful4 ,this requires that judicious combination of the materials which constitutes the chef d'oeuvre of culinary science4 ,in the first place1 take care that the roots and herbs be perfectly well cleaned2 proportion the water to the quantity of meat and other ingredients1 generally a pound of meat to a quart of water for soups1 and double that quantity for gravies4 ,if they stew gently1 little more water need be put in at first than is expected at the end2 for when the pot is covered quite close1 and the fire gentle1 very little is wasted4 ,gentle stewing is incomparably the best2 the meat is more tender1 and the soup better flavoured4 ,it is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fit very close1 or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it4 ,the most essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling1 without any benefit1 except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them4 ,an evident proof that these exhalations#if-99 possess the most restorative qualities is1 that ,,the ,,cook1 who is in general the least eater1 is1 as generally1 the fattest person in the family1 from continually being surrounded by the quintessence of all the food she dresses2 whereof she sends to ,,her ,,master only the fibres and calcinations1 who is consequently thin1 gouty1 and the victim of diseases arising from insufficient nourishment4 ,it is not only the fibres of the meat which nourish us1 but the juices they contain1 and these are not only extracted but exhaled1 if it be boiled fast in an open vessel4 ,a succulent soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel1 which preserves the nutritive parts by preventing their dissipation4 ,this is a fact of which every intelligent person will soon perceive the importance4 ,place your soup-pot over a moderate fire1 which will make the water hot without causing it to boil for at least half an hour2 if the water boils immediately1 it will not penetrate the meat1 and cleanse it from the clotted blood1 and other matters which ought to go off in scum2 the meat will be hardened all over by violent heat2 will shrink up as if it was scorched1 and give hardly any gravy3 on the contrary1 by keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling1 the meat swells1 becomes tender1 its fibres are dilated1 and it yields a quantity of scum1 which must be taken off as soon as it appears4 ,it is not till after a good half hour's hot infusion that we may mend the fire1 and make the pot boil3 still continue to remove the scum2 and when no more appears1 put in the vegetables1 c4 and a little salt4 ,these will cause more scum to rise1 which must be taken off immediately2 then cover the pot very closely1 and place it at a proper distance from the fire1 where it will boil very gently1 and equally1 and by no means fast4 ,by quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of the ingredients are evaporated1 and fly off with the steam1 and the coarser parts are rendered soluble2 so you lose the good1 and get the bad4 ,soups will generally take from three to six hours4 ,prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want them4 ,this will give you more time to attend to the rest of your dinner the next day2 and when the soup is cold1 the fat may be much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it4 ,when you decant it1 take care not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel1 which are so fine that they will escape through a sieve1 or even through a ,,tamis1 which is the best strainer1 the soups appear smoother and finer1 and it is much easier cleaned than any sieve4 ,if you strain it while it is hot1 pass it through a clean tamis or napkin1 previously soaked in cold water2 the coldness of this will coagulate the fat1 and only suffer the pure broth to pass through4 ,the full flavour of the ingredients can only be extracted by very long and slow simmering2 during which take care to prevent evaporation1 by covering the pot as close as possible3 the best stew-pot is a digester4 ,clear soups must be perfectly transparent2 thickened soups1 about the consistence of rich cream2 and remember that thickened soups require nearly double the quantity of seasoning4 ,the piquance of spice1 c4 is as much blunted by the flour and butter1 as the spirit of rum is by the addition of sugar and acid3 so they are less salubrious1 without being more savoury1 from the additional quantity of spice1 c4 that is smuggled into the stomach4 ,to thicken and give body to soups and sauces1 the following materials are used3 they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughly incorporated with it2 and it should have at least half an hour's gentle simmering after3 if it is at all lumpy1 pass it through a tamis or a fine sieve4 ,bread raspings1 bread1 isinglass1 potato mucilage 7,no4 #ddh71 flour1 or fat skimmings and flour 7see ,no4 #bdh71 or flour and butter1 barley 7see ,no4 #bjd71 rice1 or oatmeal and water rubbed well together1 7see ,no4 #beg1 in which this subject is fully explained47 ,to give that glutinous quality so much admired in mock turtle1 see ,no4 #aih1 and note under ,no4 #bdg1 ,no4 #beb1 and ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #dha4 ,to their very rich gravies1 c4 the ,french add the white meat of partridges1 pigeons1 or fowls1 pounded to a pulp1 and rubbed through a sieve4 ,a piece of beef1 which has been boiled to make broth1 pounded in the like manner with a bit of butter and flour1 see obs4 to ,no4 #dhe99 and ,no4 #ejc1 and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup1 will be found a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles4 ,meat from which broth has been made 7,no4 #ahe1 and ,no4 #beb71 and all its juice has been extracted1 is then excellently well prepared for ,,potting1 7see ,no4 #ejc71 and is quite as good1 or better1 than that which has been baked till it is dry2#ih-99 indeed1 if it be pounded1 and seasoned in the usual manner1 it will be an elegant and savoury luncheon1 or supper1 and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it1 which is very little1 and a relish is procured for sandwiches1 c4 7,no4 #ejd7 of what heretofore has been by the poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the ,,cat4 ,keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling1 and get too thick1 and for gravy for your made dishes1 various sauces1 c42 for many of which it is a much better basis than melted butter4 ,the soup of mock turtle1 and the other thickened soups1 7,no4 #bdg71 will supply you with a thick gravy sauce for poultry1 fish1 ragots1 c42 and by a little management of this sort1 you may generally contrive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very little trouble or expense4 ,see also ,portable ,soup 7,no4 #beb74 ,if soup is too thin or too weak1 take off the cover of your soup-pot1 and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated1 or else add some of the thickening materials we have before mentioned2 and have at hand some plain browning3 see ,no4 #cbb1 and the obs4 thereon4 ,this simple preparation is much better than any of the compounds bearing that name2 as it colours sauce or soup without much interfering with its flavour1 and is a much better way of colouring them than burning the surface of the meat4 ,when soups and gravies are kept from day to day1 in hot weather1 they should be warmed up every day1 and put into fresh-scalded tureens or pans1 and placed in a cool cellar2 in temperate weather every other day may be enough4 ,we hope we have now put the common cook into possession of the whole arcana of soup-making1 without much trouble to herself1 or expense to her employers4 ,it need not be said in future that an ,englishman only knows how to make soup in his stomach1 by swilling down a large quantity of ale or porter1 to quench the thirst occasioned by the meat he eats4 ,,john ,,bull may now make his soup secundm artem1 and save his principal viscera a great deal of trouble4 99499 ,in the following receipts we have directed the spices#ii-99 and flavouring to be added at the usual time2 but it would greatly diminish the expense1 and improve the soups1 if the agents employed to give them a zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish1 and half the quantity of spice1 c4 would do4 ,a strong heat soon dissipates the spirit of the wine1 and evaporates the aroma and flavour of the spices and herbs1 which are volatile in the heat of boiling water4 ,in ordering the proportions of meat1 butter1 wine1 c4 the proper quantity is set down1 and less will not do3 we have carried economy quite as far as possible without spoiling the broth for a halfpenny worth of salt4 ,i conclude these remarks with observing1 that some persons imagine that soup tends to relax the stomach4 ,so far from being prejudicial1 we consider the moderate use of such liquid nourishment to be highly salutary4 ,does not our food and drink1 even though cold1 become in a few minutes a kind of warm soup in the stomach8 and therefore soup1 if not eaten too hot1 or in too great a quantity1 and of proper quality1 is attended with great advantages1 especially to those who drink but little4 ,warm fluids1 in the form of soup1 unite with our juices much sooner and better than those that are cold and raw3 on this account1 ,,restorative ,,soup is the best food for those who are enfeebled by disease or dissipation1 and for old people1 whose teeth and digestive organs are impaired4 ,half subtilized to chyle1 the liquid food ,readiest obeys th' assimilating powers4 ,after catching cold1 in nervous headaches1 cholics1 indigestions1 and different kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach1 warm broth is of excellent service4 ,after intemperate feasting1 to give the stomach a holyday for a day or two by a diet on mutton broth 7,no4 #efd1 or ,no4 #egb71 or vegetable soup 7,no4 #bah71 c4 is the best way to restore its tone4 ,the stretching any power to its utmost extent weakens it4 ,if the stomach be every day obliged to do as much as it can1 it will every day be able to do less4 ,a wise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can in one day upon a long journey4--,father ,,feyjoo',s ,rules1 p4 #he4 ,to ,,warm ,,soups1 c4 7,no4 #dhe47 ,n4,b4 ,with the ,,portable ,,soup 7,no4 #beb71 a pint of broth may be made in five minutes for threepence4 ,,footnotes3 #hi-99 ,we prefer the form of a stew-pan to the soup-pot2 the former is more convenient to skim3 the most useful size is #ab inches diameter by #f inches deep3 this we would have of silver1 or iron1 or copper1 lined 7not plated7 with silver4 #hi- ,this may be always avoided by browning your meat in the frying-pan2 it is the browning of the meat that destroys the stew-pan4 #ij-99 ,in general1 it has been considered the best economy to use the cheapest and most inferior meats for soup1 c41 and to boil it down till it is entirely destroyed1 and hardly worth putting into the hog-tub4 ,this is a false frugality3 buy good pieces of meat1 and only stew them till they are done enough to be eaten4 #ia-99 ,,mushroom ,,catchup1 made as ,no4 #dci1 or ,no4 #ddj1 will answer all the purposes of mushrooms in soup or sauce1 and no store-room should be without a stock of it4 #ia- ,all cooks agree in this opinion1 ,no savoury dish without an ,,onion4 ,sliced onions fried1 7see ,no4 #bii1 and note under ,no4 #eag71 with some butter and flour1 till they are browned 7and rubbed through a sieve71 are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces1 and form the basis of most of the relishes furnished by the ,restaurateurs--as we guess from the odour which ascends from their kitchens1 and salutes our olfactory nerves en passant4 ,the older and drier the onion1 the stronger its flavour2 and the cook will regulate the quantity she uses accordingly4 #ib-99 ,burnet has exactly the same flavour as cucumber4 ,see ,burnet vinegar 7,no4 #cii74 #ib- ,the concentration of flavour in ,,celery and ,,cress ,,seed is such1 that half a drachm of it 7finely pounded71 or double the quantity if not ground or pounded1 costing only one-third of a farthing1 will impregnate half a gallon of soup with almost as much relish as two or three heads of the fresh vegetable1 weighing seven ounces1 and costing twopence4 ,this valuable acquisition to the soup-pot deserves to be universally known4 ,see also ,no4 #dji1 essence of ,,celery4 ,this is the most frugal relish we have to introduce to the economist3 but that our judgment in palates may not be called in question by our fellow-mortals1 who1 as the ,craniologists say1 happen to have the organ of taste stronger than the organ of accumulativeness1 we must confess1 that1 with the flavour it does not impart the delicate sweetness1 c4 of the fresh vegetable2 and when used1 a bit of sugar should accompany it4 #ib- ,see ,no4 #dai1 ,no4 #dbj1 and ,no4 #dei4 ,fresh green ,,basil is seldom to be procured4 ,when dried1 much of its fine flavour is lost1 which is fully extracted by pouring wine on the fresh leaves 7see ,no4 #cig74 ,to procure and preserve the flavour of ,,sweet ,,and ,,savoury ,,herbs1 celery1 c4 these must be dried1 c4 at home 7see ,no4 #dag99 and ,no4 #dfa74 #ib- ,see ,no4 #dba and ,no4 #deg4 ,sir ,hans ,sloane1 in the ,phil4 ,trans4 ,abr4 vol4 xi4 p4 #ffg1 says1 ,pimento1 the spice of ,jamaica1 or ,,allspice1 so called1 from having a flavour composed as it were of cloves1 cinnamon1 nutmegs1 and pepper1 may deservedly be counted the best and most temperate1 mild1 and innocent of common spices1 almost all of which it far surpasses1 by promoting the digestion of meat1 and moderately heating and strengthening the stomach1 and doing those friendly offices to the bowels1 we generally expect from spices4 ,we have always been of the same opinion as ,sir ,hans1 and believe the only reason why it is the least esteemed spice is1 because it is the cheapest4 ,what folks get easy they never enjoy4 #ib- ,if you have not fresh orange or lemon-juice1 or ,coxwell's crystallized lemon acid1 the artificial lemon juice 7,no4 #djg7 is a good substitute for it4 #ib- ,the juice of the ,,seville ,,orange is to be preferred to that of the ,,lemon1 the flavour is finer1 and the acid milder4 #ic-99 ,the erudite editor of the ,almanach des ,gourmands1 vol4 ii4 p4 #cj1 tells us1 that ten folio volumes would not contain the receipts of all the soups that have been invented in that grand school of good eating1--the ,parisian kitchen4 #ic- ,point de ,lgumes1 point de ,cuisinire1 is a favourite culinary adage of the ,french kitchen1 and deserves to be so3 a better soup may be made with a couple of pounds of meat and plenty of vegetables1 than our common cooks will make you with four times that quantity of meat2 all for want of knowing the uses of soup roots1 and sweet and savoury herbs4 #ic- ,many a good dish is spoiled1 by the cook not knowing the proper use of this1 which is to give a flavour1 and not to be predominant over the other ingredients3 a morsel mashed with the point of a knife1 and stirred in1 is enough4 ,see ,no4 #djb4 #ic- ,foreigners have strange notions of ,english taste1 on which one of their culinary professors has made the following comment3 the organ of taste in these ,,islanders is very different from our delicate palates2 and sauce that would excoriate the palate of a ,frenchman1 would be hardly piquante enough to make any impression on that of an ,englishman2 thus they prefer port to claret1 c4 ,as far as concerns our drinking1 we wish there was not quite so much truth in ,monsieur's remarks1 but the characteristic of the ,french and ,english kitchen is sauce without substance1 and substance without sauce4 ,to make ,,cayenne of ,english chillies1 of infinitely finer flavour than the ,indian1 see ,no4 #djd4 #ie-99 ,we tried to make catchup of these by treating them like mushrooms 7,no4 #dci71 but did not succeed4 #if-99 ,a poor man1 being very hungry1 staid so long in a cook's shop1 who was dishing up meat1 that his stomach was satisfied with only the smell thereof4 ,the choleric cook demanded of him to pay for his breakfast2 the poor man denied having had any1 and the controversy was referred to the deciding of the next man that should pass by1 who chanced to be the most notorious idiot in the whole city3 he1 on the relation of the matter1 determined that the poor man's money should be put between two empty dishes1 and the cook should be recompensed with the jingling of the poor man's money1 as he was satisfied with the smell of the cook's meat4 ,this is affirmed by credible writers as no fable1 but an undoubted truth4--,,fuller',s ,holy ,state1 lib4 iii4 c4 #ab1 p4 #bj4 #ih-99 ,if the gravy be not completely drained from it1 the article potted will very soon turn sour4 #ii-99 ,economists recommend these to be pounded2 they certainly go farther1 as they call it2 but we think they go too far1 for they go through the sieve1 and make the soup grouty4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,gravies ,,and ,,sauces4 ,the spirit of each dish1 and ,,zest of all1 ,is what ingenious cooks the relish call2 ,for though the market sends in loads of food1 ,they are all tasteless1 till that makes them good4 ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery4 ,ex parvis componere magna4 ,it is of as much importance that the cook should know how to make a boat of good gravy for her poultry1 c4 as that it should be sent up of proper complexion1 and nicely frothed4 ,in this chapter1 we shall endeavour to introduce to her all the materials#aja-99 which give flavour in sauce1 which is the essence of soup1 and intended to contain more relish in a tea-spoonful than the former does in a table-spoonful4 ,we hope to deserve as much praise from the economist as we do from the bon vivant2 as we have taken great pains to introduce to him the methods of making substitutes for those ingredients1 which are always expensive1 and often not to be had at all4 ,many of these cheap articles are as savoury and as salutary as the dearer ones1 and those who have large families and limited incomes1 will1 no doubt1 be glad to avail themselves of them4 ,the reader may rest assured1 that whether he consults this book to diminish the expense or increase the pleasures of hospitality1 he will find all the information that was to be obtained up to #ahbf1 communicated in the most unreserved and intelligible manner4 ,a great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the accompaniments to each dish being appropriate and well adapted to it4 ,we can assure our readers1 no attention has been wanting on our part to render this department of the work worthy of their perusal2 each receipt is the faithful narrative of actual and repeated experiments1 and has received the most deliberate consideration before it was here presented to them4 ,it is given in the most circumstantial manner1 and not in the technical and mysterious language former writers on these subjects seem to have preferred2 by which their directions are useless and unintelligible to all who have not regularly served an apprenticeship at the stove4 ,thus1 instead of accurately enumerating the quantities1 and explaining the process of each composition1 they order a ladleful of stock1 a pint of consomm1 and a spoonful of cullis2 as if a private-family cook had always at hand a soup-kettle full of stock1 a store of consomm1 and the larder of ,albion house1 and the spoons and pennyworths were the same in all ages4 ,it will be to very little purpose that ,i have taken so much pains to teach how to manage roasts and boils1 if a cook cannot or will not make the several sauces that are usually sent up with them4 ,the most homely fare may be made relishing1 and the most excellent and independent improved by a well-made sauce2#ajb-99 as the most perfect picture may1 by being well varnished4 ,we have1 therefore1 endeavoured to give the plainest directions how to produce1 with the least trouble and expense#ajb- possible1 all the various compositions the ,english kitchen affords2 and hope to present such a wholesome and palatable variety as will suit all tastes and all pockets1 so that a cook may give satisfaction in all families4 ,the more combinations of this sort she is acquainted with1 the better she will comprehend the management of every one of them4 ,we have rejected some outlandish farragoes1 from a conviction that they were by no means adapted to an ,english palate4 ,if they have been received into some ,english books1 for the sake of swelling the volume1 we believe they will never be received by an ,englishman's stomach1 unless for the reason they were admitted into the cookery book1 i4 e4 because he has nothing else to put into it4 ,however les pompeuses bagatelles de la ,cuisine ,masque may tickle the fancy of demi-connoisseurs1 who1 leaving the substance to pursue the shadow1 prefer wonderful and whimsical metamorphoses1 and things extravagantly expensive to those which are intrinsically excellent2 in whose mouth mutton can hardly hope for a welcome1 unless accompanied by venison sauce2 or a rabbit1 any chance for a race down the red lane1 without assuming the form of a frog or a spider2 or pork1 without being either goosified or lambified 7see ,no4 #ea72 and game and poultry in the shape of crawfish or hedgehogs2 these travesties rather show the patience than the science of the cook1 and the bad taste of those who prefer such baby-tricks to nourishing and substantial plain cookery4 ,i could have made this the biggest book with half the trouble it has taken me to make it the best3 concentration and perspicuity have been my aim4 ,as much pains have been taken in describing1 in the most intelligible manner1 how to make1 in the easiest1 most agreeable1 and economical way1 those common sauces that daily contribute to the comfort of the middle ranks of society2 as in directing the preparation of those extravagant and elaborate double relishes1 the most ingenious and accomplished officers of the mouth have invented for the amusement of profound palaticians1 and thorough-bred grands gourmands of the first magnitude3 these we have so reduced the trouble and expense of making1 as to bring them within the reach of moderate fortunes2 still preserving all that is valuable of their taste and qualities2 so ordering them1 that they may delight the palate1 without disordering the stomach1 by leaving out those inflammatory ingredients which are only fit for an iron throat and adamantine bowels1 and those costly materials which no rational being would destroy1 for the wanton purpose of merely giving a fine name to the compositions they enter into1 to whose excellence they contribute nothing else4 ,for instance1 consuming two partridges to make sauce for one3 half a pint of game gravy 7,no4 #cbi17 will be infinitely more acceptable to the unsophisticated appetite of ,englishmen1 for whose proper and rational recreation we sat down to compose these receipts2 whose approbation we have done our utmost to deserve1 by devoting much time to the business of the kitchen2 and by repeating the various processes that we thought admitted of the smallest improvement4 ,we shall be fully gratified1 if our book is not bought up with quite so much avidity by those high-bred epicures1 who are unhappily so much more nice than wise1 that they cannot eat any thing dressed by an ,english cook2 and vote it barbarously unrefined and intolerably ungenteel1 to endure the sight of the best bill of fare that can be contrived1 if written in the vulgar tongue of old ,england4#ajc-99 ,let your sauces each display a decided character2 send up your plain sauces 7oyster1 lobster1 c47 as pure as possible3 they should only taste of the materials from which they take their name4 ,the imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the hunt for a relish1 that they seem to think they cannot make sauce sufficiently savoury without putting into it every thing that ever was eaten2 and supposing every addition must be an improvement1 they frequently overpower the natural flavour of their ,,plain ,,sauces1 by overloading them with salt and spices1 c43 but1 remember1 these will be deteriorated by any addition1 save only just salt enough to awaken the palate4 ,the lover of piquance and compound flavours1 may have recourse to the ,magazine of ,taste1 ,no4 #dfb4 ,on the contrary1 of ,,compound ,,sauces2 the ingredients should be so nicely proportioned1 that no one be predominant2 so that from the equal union of the combined flavours such a fine mellow mixture is produced1 whose very novelty cannot fail of being acceptable to the persevering gourmand1 if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at his table4 ,an ingenious cook will form as endless a variety of these compositions as a musician with his seven#ajd-99 notes1 or a painter with his colours2 no part of her business offers so fair and frequent an opportunity to display her abilities3 ,,spices1 ,,herbs1 c4 are often very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled together4 ,why have clove and allspice1 or mace and nutmeg1 in the same sauce2 or marjoram1 thyme1 and savoury2 or onions1 leeks1 eschalots1 and garlic8 one will very well supply the place of the other1 and the frugal cook may save something considerable by attending to this1 to the advantage of her employers1 and her own time and trouble4 ,you might as well1 to make soup1 order one quart of water from the ,thames1 another from the ,new ,river1 a third from ,hampstead1 and a fourth from ,chelsea1 with a certain portion of spring and rain water4 ,in many of our receipts we have fallen in with the fashion of ordering a mixture of spices1 c41 which the above hint will enable the culinary student to correct4 ,,pharmacy is now much more simple2 ,,cookery may be made so too4 ,a prescription which is now compounded with five ingredients1 had formerly fifty in it3 people begin to understand that the materia medica is little more than a collection of evacuants and stimuli4--,boswell's ,life of ,johnson4 ,the ragots of the last century had infinitely more ingredients than we use now2 the praise given to ,will4 ,rabisha for his ,cookery1 #abmo4 #afgc1 is ,to fry and fricassee1 his way's most neat1 ,for he compounds a thousand sorts of meat4 ,to become a perfect mistress of the art of cleverly extracting and combining flavours1#aje-99 besides the gift of a good taste1 requires all the experience and skill of the most accomplished professor1 and1 especially1 an intimate acquaintance with the palate she is working for4 ,send your sauces to table as hot as possible4 ,nothing can be more unsightly than the surface of a sauce in a frozen state1 or garnished with grease on the top4 ,the best way to get rid of this1 is to pass it through a tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold water2 the coldness of the napkin will coagulate the fat1 and only suffer the pure gravy to pass through3 if any particles of fat remain1 take them off by applying filtering paper1 as blotting paper is applied to writing4 ,let your sauces boil up after you put in wine1 anchovy1 or thickening1 that their flavours may be well blended with the other ingredients2#aje- and keep in mind that the chef-d'oeuvre of ,,cookery is1 to entertain the mouth without offending the stomach4 ,n4,b4 ,although ,i have endeavoured to give the particular quantity of each ingredient used in the following sauces1 as they are generally made2 still the cook's judgment must direct her to lessen or increase either of the ingredients1 according to the taste of those she works for1 and will always be on the alert to ascertain what are the favourite accompaniments desired with each dish4 ,see ,advice to ,cooks1 page #ej4 ,when you open a bottle of catchup 7,no4 #dci71 essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 c41 throw away the old cork1 and stop it closely with a new cork that will fit it very tight4 ,use only the best superfine velvet taper-corks4 ,economy in corks is extremely unwise3 in order to save a mere trifle in the price of the cork1 you run the risk of losing the valuable article it is intended to preserve4 ,it is a vulgar error that a bottle must be well stopped1 when the cork is forced down even with the mouth of it2 it is rather a sign that the cork is too small1 and it should be redrawn and a larger one put in4 ,to make bottle-cement4 ,half a pound of black resin1 same quantity of red sealing-wax1 quarter oz4 bees' wax1 melted in an earthen or iron pot2 when it froths up1 before all is melted and likely to boil over1 stir it with a tallow candle1 which will settle the froth till all is melted and fit for use4 ,red wax1 #aj;d4 per lb4 may be bought at ,mr4 ,dew's ,blackmore-street1 ,clare-market4 ,n4,b4 ,this cement is of very great use in preserving things that you wish to keep a long time1 which without its help would soon spoil1 from the clumsy and ineffectual manner in which the bottles are corked4 ,,footnotes3 #aja-99 ,see1 in pages #ia1 #ib1 ,a ,,catalogue ,,of ,,the ,,ingredients now used in soups1 sauces1 c4 #ajb-99 ,it is the duty of a good sauce1 says the editor of the ,almanach des ,gourmands 7vol4 v4 page #f71 to insinuate itself all round and about the maxillary gland1 and imperceptibly awaken into activity each ramification of the organs of taste3 if not sufficiently savoury1 it cannot produce this effect1 and if too piquante1 it will paralyze1 instead of exciting1 those delicious titillations of tongue and vibrations of palate1 that only the most accomplished philosophers of the mouth can produce on the highly-educated palates of thrice happy grands gourmands4 #ajb- ,to save time and trouble is the most valuable frugality3 and if the mistress of a family will condescend to devote a little time to the profitable and pleasant employment of preparing some of the ,,store ,,sauces1 especially ,nos4 #cbb4 #djb4 #djd4 #dac4 #dbi4 #dcc4 #dci4 #ded2 these1 both epicures and economists will avail themselves of the advantage now given them1 of preparing at home4 ,by the help of these1 many dishes may be dressed in half the usual time1 and with half the trouble and expense1 and flavoured and finished with much more certainty than by the common methods4 ,a small portion of the time which young ladies sacrifice to torturing the strings of their piano-forte1 employed in obtaining domestic accomplishments1 might not make them worse wives1 or less agreeable companions to their husbands4 ,this was the opinion #bjj years ago4 ,to speak1 then1 of the knowledge which belongs unto our ,british housewife1 ,i hold the most principal to be a perfect skill in ,,cookery3 she that is utterly ignorant therein1 may not1 by the lawes of strict justice1 challenge the freedom of marriage1 because indeede she can perform but half her vow3 she may love and obey1 but she cannot cherish and keepe her husband4--,g4 ,,markham',s ,english ,housewife1 #dto4 #afcg1 p4 #fb4 ,we hope our fair readers will forgive us1 for telling them that economy in a wife1 is the most certain charm to ensure the affection and industry of a husband4 #ajc-99 ,though some of these people seem at last to have found out1 that an ,englishman's head may be as full of gravy as a ,frenchman's1 and willing to give the preference to native talent1 retain an ,englishman or woman as prime minister of their kitchen2 still they seem ashamed to confess it1 and commonly insist as a sine qu non1 that their ,english domestics should understand the parlez vous2 and notwithstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minuti of the philosophy of the mouth1 consider them uneligible1 if they cannot scribble a bill of fare in pretty good bad ,french4 #ajd-99 ,the principal agents now employed to flavour soups and sauces are1 ,,mushrooms 7,no4 #dci71 ,,onions 7,no4 #dbj71 ,,anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 ,,lemon-,,juice and ,,peel1 or ,,vinegar1 ,,wine1 7especially good ,,claret71 ,,sweet ,,herbs1 and ,,savoury ,,spices4--,nos4 #dbj-dbb1 and #deg4 #dei1 #dfj4 #aje-99 ,if your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting1 the best way to refresh it is to wash your mouth well with milk4 #aje- ,before you put eggs or cream into a sauce1 have all your other ingredients well boiled1 and the sauce or soup of proper thickness2 because neither eggs nor cream will contribute to thicken it4--,after you have put them in1 do not set the stew-pan on the stove again1 but hold it over the fire1 and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,made ,,dishes4 ,under this general head we range our receipts for ,,hashes1 ,,stews1 and ,,ragouts1#ajf-99 c4 ,of these there are a great multitude1 affording the ingenious cook an inexhaustible store of variety3 in the ,french kitchen they count upwards of #fjj1 and are daily inventing new ones4 ,we have very few general observations to make1 after what we have already said in the two preceding chapters on sauces1 soups1 c41 which apply to the present chapter1 as they form the principal part of the accompaniment of most of these dishes4 ,in fact1 ,,made ,,dishes are nothing more than meat1 poultry 7,no4 #ecj71 or fish 7,nos4 #adf1 #aeh1 or #afd71 stewed very gently till they are tender1 with a thickened sauce poured over them4 ,be careful to trim off all the skin1 gristle1 c4 that will not be eaten2 and shape handsomely1 and of even thickness1 the various articles which compose your made dishes3 this is sadly neglected by common cooks4 ,only stew them till they are just tender1 and do not stew them to rags2 therefore1 what you prepare the day before it is to be eaten1 do not dress quite enough the first day4 ,we have given receipts for the most easy and simple way to make ,,hashes1 c4 ,those who are well skilled in culinary arts can dress up things in this way1 so as to be as agreeable as they were the first time they were cooked4 ,but hashing is a very bad mode of cookery3 if meat has been done enough the first time it is dressed1 a second dressing will divest it of all its nutritive juices2 and if it can be smuggled into the stomach by bribing the palate with piquante sauce1 it is at the hazard of an indigestion1 c4 ,i promise those who do me the honour to put my receipts into practice1 that they will find that the most nutritious and truly elegant dishes are neither the most difficult to dress1 the most expensive1 nor the most indigestible4 ,in these compositions experience will go far to diminish expense3 meat that is too old or too tough for roasting1 c41 may by gentle stewing be rendered savoury and tender4 ,if some of our receipts do differ a little from those in former cookery books1 let it be remembered we have advanced nothing in this work that has not been tried1 and experience has proved correct4 ,n4,b4 ,see ,no4 #dhc1 an ingenious and economical system of ,,french ,,cookery1 written at the request of the editor by an accomplished ,,english ,,lady1 which will teach you how to supply your table with elegant little made dishes1 c4 at as little expense as plain cookery4 ,,footnotes3 #ajf-99 ,sauce for ragots1 c41 should be thickened till it is of the consistence of good rich cream1 that it may adhere to whatever it is poured over4 ,when you have a large dinner to dress1 keep ready-mixed some fine-sifted flour and water well rubbed together till quite smooth1 and about as thick as butter4 ,see ,no4 #beg4 ,,the ,,cook',s ,,oracle4 ,,boiling4 ,read the first chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,leg of ,mutton4--7,no4 #a47 ,cut off the shank bone1 and trim the knuckle1 put it into lukewarm water for ten minutes1 wash it clean1 cover it with cold water1 and let it simmer very gently1 and skim it carefully4 ,a leg of nine pounds will take two and a half or three hours1 if you like it thoroughly done1 especially in very cold weather4 ,for the accompaniments1 see the following receipt4 ,n4,b4 ,the tit-bits with an epicure are the knuckle1 the kernel1 called the pope's eye1 and the gentleman's or cramp bone1 or1 as it is called in ,kent1 the ,,caw ,,caw1 four of these and a bounder furnish the little masters and mistresses of ,kent with their most favourite set of playthings4 ,a leg of mutton stewed very slowly1 as we have directed the beef to be 7,no4 #dic71 will be as agreeable to an ,english appetite as the famous gigot#ajh-99 de sept heures of the ,french kitchen is to a ,parisian palate4 ,when mutton is very large1 you may divide it1 and roast the fillet1 i4 e4 the large end1 and boil the knuckle end2 you may also cut some fine cutlets off the thick end of the leg1 and so have two or three good hot dinners4 ,see ,mrs4 ,,makeitdo',s receipt how to make a leg of mutton last a week1 in the housekeeper's leger1 printed for ,whittaker1 ,ave-,maria ,lane4 ,the liquor the mutton is boiled in1 you may convert into good soup in five minutes1 7see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bah17 and ,scotch barley broth 7,no4 #bjd74 ,thus managed1 a leg of mutton is a most economical joint4 ,neck of ,mutton4--7,no4 #b47 ,put four or five pounds of the best end of a neck 7that has been kept a few days7 into as much cold soft water as will cover it1 and about two inches over2 let it simmer very slowly for two hours3 it will look most delicate if you do not take off the skin till it has been boiled4 ,for sauce1 that elegant and innocent relish1 parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa71 or eschalot 7,no4 #bid or #e71 or caper sauce 7,no4 #bgd71 mock caper sauce 7,no4 #bge71 and onion sauce 7,no4 #bih71 turnips 7,no4 #acj71 or spinage 7,no4 #aba71 are the usual accompaniments to boiled mutton4 ,lamb4--7,no4 #c47 ,a leg of five pounds should simmer very gently for about two hours1 from the time it is put on1 in cold water4 ,after the general rules for boiling1 in the first chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery1 we have nothing to add1 only to send up with it spinage 7,no4 #abb71 broccoli 7,no4 #abf71 cauliflower 7,no4 #abe71 c41 and for sauce1 ,no4 #bfa4 ,veal4--7,no4 #d47 ,this is expected to come to table looking delicately clean2 and it is so easily discoloured1 that you must be careful to have clean water1 a clean vessel1 and constantly catch the scum as soon and as long as it rises1 and attend to the directions before given in the first chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,send up bacon 7,no4 #ac71 fried sausages 7,no4 #hg71 or pickled pork1 greens1 7,no4 #aah and following ,nos47 and parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa71 onion sauce 7,no4 #bih74 ,n4,b4 ,for receipts to cook veal1 see from ,no4 #eab to ,no4 #eba4 ,beef bouilli1--7,no4 #e47 ,in plain ,english1 is understood to mean boiled beef2 but its culinary acceptation1 in the ,french kitchen1 is fresh beef dressed without boiling1 and only very gently simmered by a slow fire4 ,cooks have seldom any notion1 that good soup can be made without destroying a great deal of meat2 however1 by a judicious regulation of the fire1 and a vigilant attendance on the soup-kettle1 this may be accomplished4 ,you shall have a tureen of such soup as will satisfy the most fastidious palate1 and the meat make its appearance at table1 at the same time1 in possession of a full portion of nutritious succulence4 ,this requires nothing more than to stew the meat very slowly 7instead of keeping the pot boiling a gallop1 as common cooks too commonly do71 and to take it up as soon as it is done enough4 ,see ,soup and bouilli 7,no4 #bch71 ,shin of beef stewed 7,no4 #dic71 ,scotch barley broth 7,no4 #bjd74 ,meat cooked in this manner affords much more nourishment than it does dressed in the common way1 is easy of digestion in proportion as it is tender1 and an invigorating1 substantial diet1 especially valuable to the poor1 whose laborious employments require support4 ,if they could get good eating put within their reach1 they would often go to the butcher's shop1 when they now run to the public-house4 ,among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for bettering the condition of the poor1 a more useful or extensive charity cannot be devised1 than that of instructing them in economical and comfortable cookery1 except providing them with spectacles4 ,the poor in ,scotland1 and on the ,continent1 manage much better4 ,oatmeal porridge 7,nos4 #bje and #egb7 and milk1 constitute the breakfast and supper of those patterns of industry1 frugality1 and temperance1 the ,scottish peasantry4 ,when they can afford meat1 they form with it a large quantity of barley broth 7,no4 #bjd71 with a variety of vegetables1 by boiling the whole a long time1 enough to serve the family for several days4 ,when they cannot afford meat1 they make broth of barley and other vegetables1 with a lump of butter 7see ,no4 #bbi71 all of which they boil for many hours1 and this with oat cakes forms their dinner4 ,,cochrane',s ,seaman's ,guide1 p4 #cd4 ,the cheapest method of making a nourishing soup is least known to those who have most need of it4 7,see ,no4 #bbi47 ,our neighbours the ,french are so justly famous for their skill in the affairs of the kitchen1 that the adage says1 as many ,frenchmen as many cooks3 surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious wines and most seducing liqueurs1 offering every temptation and facility to render drunkenness delightful3 yet a tippling ,frenchman is a rara avis2 they know how so easily and completely to keep life in repair by good eating1 that they require little or no adjustment from drinking4 ,this accounts for that toujours gai1 and happy equilibrium of spirits1 which they enjoy with more regularity than any people4 ,their stomach1 being unimpaired by spirituous liquors1 embrace and digest vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare for it1 and render easily assimilable by cooking it sufficiently1 wisely contriving to get the difficult part of the work of the stomach done by fire and water4 ,to salt ,meat4--7,no4 #f47 ,in the summer season1 especially1 meat is frequently spoiled by the cook forgetting to take out the kernels2 one in the udder of a round of beef1 in the fat in the middle of the round1 those about the thick end of the flank1 c43 if these are not taken out1 all the salt in the world will not keep the meat4 ,the art of salting meat is to rub in the salt thoroughly and evenly into every part1 and to fill all the holes full of salt where the kernels were taken out1 and where the butcher's skewers were4 ,a round of beef of #be pounds will take a pound and a half of salt to be rubbed in all at first1 and requires to be turned and rubbed every day with the brine2 it will be ready for dressing in four or five days1#aaa-99 if you do not wish it very salt4 ,in summer1 the sooner meat is salted after it is killed the better2 and care must be taken to defend it from the flies4 ,in winter1 it will eat the shorter and tenderer1 if kept a few days 7according to the temperature of the weather7 until its fibre has become short and tender1 as these changes do not take place after it has been acted upon by the salt4 ,in frosty weather1 take care the meat is not frozen1 and warm the salt in a frying-pan4 ,the extremes of heat#aaa- and cold are equally unfavourable for the process of salting4 ,in the former1 the meat changes before the salt can affect it3 in the latter1 it is so hardened1 and its juices are so congealed1 that the salt cannot penetrate it4 ,if you wish it red1 rub it first with saltpetre1 in the proportion of half an ounce1 and the like quantity of moist sugar1 to a pound of common salt4 7,see ,savoury salt beef1 ,no4 #dif47 ,you may impregnate meat with a very agreeable vegetable flavour1 by pounding some sweet herbs 7,no4 #dei17 and an onion with the salt4 ,you may make it still more relishing by adding a little ,,zest 7,no4 #bee71 or savoury spice 7,no4 #deg74 ,to pickle ,meat4 ,six pounds of salt1 one pound of sugar1 and four ounces of saltpetre1 boiled with four gallons of water1 skimmed1 and allowed to cool1 forms a very strong pickle1 which will preserve any meat completely immersed in it4 ,to effect this1 which is essential1 either a heavy board or a flat stone must be laid upon the meat4 ,the same pickle may be used repeatedly1 provided it be boiled up occasionally with additional salt to restore its strength1 diminished by the combination of part of the salt with the meat1 and by the dilution of the pickle by the juices of the meat extracted4 ,by boiling1 the albumen1 which would cause the pickle to spoil1 is coagulated1 and rises in the form of scum1 which must be carefully removed4--,see ,supplement to ,encyclop4 ,britan4 vol4 iv4 p4 #cdj4 ,meat kept immersed in pickle gains weight4 ,in one experiment by ,messrs4 ,donkin and ,gamble1 there was a gain of three per cent41 and in another of two and a half2 but in the common way of salting1 when the meat is not immersed in pickle1 there is a loss of about one pound1 or one and a half1 in sixteen4 ,see ,dr4 ,wilkinson's account of the preserving power of ,,pyro-,,ligneous ,,acid1 c4 in the ,philosophical ,magazine for #ahba1 ,no4 #bgc1 p4 #ab4 ,an ,h-bone of #aj or #ab pounds weight will require about three-quarters of a pound of salt1 and an ounce of moist sugar1 to be well rubbed into it4 ,it will be ready in four or five days1 if turned and rubbed every day4 ,the time meat requires salting depends upon the weight of it1 and how much salt is used3 and if it be rubbed in with a heavy hand1 it will be ready much sooner than if only lightly rubbed4 ,n4 ,b4 ,dry the salt1 and rub it with the sugar in a mortar4 ,,pork requires a longer time to cure 7in proportion to its weight7 than beef4 ,a leg of pork should be in salt eight or ten days2 turn it and rub it every day4 ,salt meat should be well washed before it is boiled1 especially if it has been in salt long1 that the liquor in which the meat is boiled1 may not be too salt to make soup of4 7,no4 #bah1 c4 and ,no4 #eee47 ,if it has been in salt a long time1 and you fear that it will be too salt1 wash it well in cold water1 and soak it in lukewarm water for a couple of hours4 ,if it is very salt1 lay it in water the night before you intend to dress it4 ,a ,round of salted ,beef4--7,no4 #g47 ,as this is too large for a moderate family1 we shall write directions for the dressing half a round4 ,get the tongue side4 ,skewer it up tight and round1 and tie a fillet of broad tape round it1 to keep the skewers in their places4 ,put it into plenty of cold water1 and carefully catch the scum as soon as it rises3 let it boil till all the scum is removed1 and then put the boiler on one side of the fire1 to keep simmering slowly till it is done4 ,half a round of #aelbs4 will take about three hours3 if it weighs more1 give it more time4 ,when you take it up1 if any stray scum1 c4 sticks to it that has escaped the vigilance of your skimmer1 wash it off with a paste-brush3 garnish the dishes with carrots and turnips4 ,send up carrots 7,no4 #abi71 turnips 7,no4 #acj71 and parsnips1 or greens 7,no4 #aah71 c4 on separate dishes4 ,pease pudding 7,no4 #eee71 and ,,my ,,pudding 7,no4 #eea71 are all very proper accompaniments4 ,n4,b4 ,the outside slices1 which are generally too much salted and too much boiled1 will make a very good relish as potted beef 7,no4 #ejc74 ,for using up the remains of a joint of boiled beef1 see also ,bubble and ,squeak 7,no4 #eje74 ,h-,bone of ,beef1--7,no4 #h47 ,is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the round1 but will be sooner boiled1 as it is not so solid4 ,an ,h-bone of #bjlbs4 will be done enough in about four hours2 of #ajlbs4 in three hours1 more or less1 as the weather is hotter or colder4 ,be sure the boiler is big enough to allow it plenty of water-room3 let it be well covered with water3 set the pot on one side of the fire to boil gently3 if it boils quick at first1 no art can make it tender after4 ,the slower it boils1 the better it will look1 and the tenderer it will be4 ,the same accompanying vegetables as in the preceding receipt4 ,dress plenty of carrots1 as cold carrots are a general favourite with cold beef4 ,mem4--,epicures say1 that the soft1 fat-like marrow1 which lies on the back1 is delicious when hot1 and the hard fat about the upper corner is best when cold4 ,to make ,,perfectly ,,good ,,pease ,,soup in ten minutes1 of the liquor in which the beef has been boiled1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bah4 ,obs4--,in ,mrs4 ,mason's ,ladies' ,assistant1 this joint is called haunch-bone2 in ,henderson's ,cookery1 edge-bone2 in ,domestic ,management1 aitch-bone2 in ,reynold's ,cookery1 ische-bone2 in ,mrs4 ,lydia ,fisher's ,prudent ,housewife1 ach-bone2 in ,mrs4 ,m',iver's ,cookery1 hook-bone4 ,we have also seen it spelled each-bone and ridge-bone2 and we have also heard it called natch-bone4 ,n4,b4 ,read the note under ,no4 #g2 and to make perfectly good pease soup of the pot-liquor1 in ten minutes1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #bah1 ,no4 #bbi1 and ,no4 #eee4 ,ribs of ,beef salted and rolled4--7,no4 #i47 ,briskets1 and the various other pieces1 are dressed in the same way4 ,wow-wow sauce 7,no4 #cbh17 is an agreeable companion4 ,half a ,calf's ,head4--7,no4 #aj47 ,cut it in two1 and take out the brains3 wash the head well in several waters1 and soak it in warm water for a quarter of an hour before you dress it4 ,put the head into a saucepan1 with plenty of cold water3 when it is coming to a boil1 and the scum rises1 carefully remove it4 ,half a calf's head 7without the skin7 will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a quarter1 according to its size2 with the skin on1 about an hour longer4 ,it must be stewed very gently till it is tender3 it is then extremely nutritive1 and easy of digestion4 ,put eight or ten sage leaves 7some cooks use parsley instead1 or equal parts of each7 into a small sauce-pan3 boil them tender 7about half an hour72 then chop them very fine1 and set them ready on a plate4 ,wash the brains well in two waters2 put them into a large basin of cold water1 with a little salt in it1 and let them soak for an hour2 then pour away the cold1 and cover them with hot water2 and when you have cleaned and skinned them1 put them into a stew-pan with plenty of cold water3 when it boils1 take the scum off very carefully1 and boil gently for #aj or #ae minutes3 now chop them 7not very fine72 put them into a sauce-pan with the sage leaves and a couple of table-spoonfuls of thin melted butter1 and a little salt 7to this some cooks add a little lemon-juice71 and stir them well together2 and as soon as they are well warmed 7take care they don't burn71 skin the tongue1#aae-99 trim off the roots1 and put it in the middle of a dish1 and the brains round it3 or1 chop the brains with an eschalot1 a little parsley1 and four hard-boiled eggs1 and put them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel1 or white sauce 7,no4 #b of #cfd74 ,a calf's cheek is usually attended by a pig's cheek1 a knuckle of ham or bacon 7,no4 #ac1 or ,no4 #ebf71 or pickled pork 7,no4 #aa71 and greens1 broccoli1 cauliflowers1 or pease2 and always by parsley and butter 7see ,no4 #bfa1 ,no4 #caa1 or ,no4 #cdc74 ,if you like it full dressed1 score it superficially1 beat up the yelk of an egg1 and rub it over the head with a feather2 powder it with a seasoning of finely minced 7or dried and powdered7 winter savoury or lemon-thyme 7or sage71 parsley1 pepper1 and salt1 and bread crumbs1 and give it a brown with a salamander1 or in a tin ,dutch oven3 when it begins to dry1 sprinkle a little melted butter over it with a paste-brush4 ,you may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon 7,no4 #ebf or #ebg74 ,obs4--,calf's head is one of the most delicate and favourite dishes in the list of boiled meats2 but nothing is more insipid when cold1 and nothing makes so nice a hash2 therefore don't forget to save a quart of the liquor it was boiled in to make sauce1 c4 for the hash 7see also ,no4 #ebj74 ,cut the head and tongue into slices1 trim them neatly1 and leave out the gristles and fat2 and slice some of the bacon that was dressed to eat with the head1 and warm them in the hash4 ,take the bones and the trimmings of the head1 a bundle of sweet herbs1 an onion1 a roll of lemon-peel1 and a blade of bruised mace3 put these into a sauce-pan with the quart of liquor you have saved1 and let it boil gently for an hour2 pour it through a sieve into a basin1 wash out your stew-pan1 add a table-spoonful of flour to the brains and parsley and butter you have left1 and pour it into the gravy you have made with the bones and trimmings2 let it boil up for ten minutes1 and then strain it through a hair-sieve2 season it with a table-spoonful of white wine1 or of catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or sauce superlative 7,no4 #dbi73 give it a boil up1 skim it1 and then put in the brains and the slices of head and bacon2 as soon as they are thoroughly warm 7it must not boil7 the hash is ready4 ,some cooks egg1 bread-crumb1 and fry the finest pieces of the head1 and lay them round the hash4 ,n4,b4 ,you may garnish the edges of the dish with slices of bacon toasted in a ,dutch oven 7see ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg71 slices of lemon and fried bread4 ,to make gravy for hashes1 c4 see ,no4 #cfj4 ,pickled ,pork1--7,no4 #aa47 ,takes more time than any other meat4 ,if you buy your pork ready salted1 ask how many days it has been in salt2 if many1 it will require to be soaked in water for six hours before you dress it4 ,when you cook it1 wash and scrape it as clean as possible2 when delicately dressed1 it is a favourite dish with almost every body4 ,take care it does not boil fast2 if it does1 the knuckle will break to pieces1 before the thick part of the meat is warm through2 a leg of seven pounds takes three hours and a half very slow simmering4 ,skim your pot very carefully1 and when you take the meat out of the boiler1 scrape it clean4 ,some sagacious cooks 7who remember to how many more nature has given eyes than she has given tongues and brains71 when pork is boiled1 score it in diamonds1 and take out every other square2 and thus present a retainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate2 but this is pleasing the eye at the expense of the palate4 ,a leg of nice pork1 nicely salted1 and nicely boiled1 is as nice a cold relish as cold ham2 especially if1 instead of cutting into the middle when hot1 and so letting out its juices1 you cut it at the knuckle3 slices broiled1 as ,no4 #dhg1 are a good luncheon1 or supper4 ,to make pease pudding1 and pease soup extempore1 see ,n4,b4 to ,nos4 #bah and #eee4 ,,mem4--,some persons who sell pork ready salted have a silly trick of cutting the knuckle in two2 we suppose that this is done to save their salt2 but it lets all the gravy out of the leg2 and unless you boil your pork merely for the sake of the pot-liquor1 which in this case receives all the goodness and strength of the meat1 friendly reader1 your oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit at the knuckle4 ,if pork is not done enough1 nothing is more disagreeable2 if too much1 it not only loses its colour and flavour1 but its substance becomes soft like a jelly4 ,it must never appear at table without a good pease pudding 7see ,no4 #eee71 and1 if you please1 parsnips 7,no4 #abh72 they are an excellent vegetable1 and deserve to be much more popular2 or carrots 7,no4 #abi71 turnips1 and greens1 or mashed potatoes1 c4 7,no4 #ajf47 ,obs4--,remember not to forget the mustard-pot 7,no4 #cfi1 ,no4 #cgj1 and ,no4 #dbg74 ,pettitoes1 or ,sucking-,pig's ,feet4--7,no4 #ab47 ,put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan with some broth1 a blade of mace1 a few pepper-corns1 and a bit of thyme2 boil the feet till they are quite tender2 this will take full twenty minutes2 but the heart1 liver1 and lights will be done enough in ten1 when they are to be taken out1 and minced fine4 ,put them all together into a stew-pan with some gravy2 thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour2 season it with a little pepper and salt1 and set it over a gentle fire to simmer for five minutes1 frequently shaking them about4 ,while this is doing1 have a thin slice of bread toasted very lightly2 divide it into sippets1 and lay them round the dish3 pour the mince and sauce into the middle of it1 and split the feet1 and lay them round it4 ,n4,b4 ,pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter1 and fried a light brown4 ,obs4--,if you have no gravy1 put into the water you stew the pettitoes in an onion1 a sprig of lemon thyme1 or sweet marjoram1 with a blade of bruised mace1 a few black peppers1 and a large tea-spoonful of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 and you will have a very tolerable substitute for gravy4 ,a bit of ,no4 #beb will be a very great improvement to it4 ,bacon4--7,no4 #ac47 ,cover a pound of nice streaked bacon 7as the ,hampshire housewives say1 that has been starved one day1 and fed another7 with cold water1 let it boil gently for three-quarters of an hour2 take it up1 scrape the under-side well1 and cut off the rind3 grate a crust of bread not only on the top1 but all over it1 as directed for the ham in the following receipt1 and put it before the fire for a few minutes3 it must not be there too long1 or it will dry it and spoil it4 ,two pounds will require about an hour and a half1 according to its thickness2 the hock or gammon being very thick1 will take more4 ,obs4--,see ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg3 when only a little bacon is wanted1 these are the best ways of dressing it4 ,the boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to comment1 upon2 but our main object is to teach common cooks the art of dressing common food in the best manner4 ,bacon is sometimes as salt as salt can make it1 therefore before it is boiled it must be soaked in warm water for an hour or two1 changing the water once2 then pare off the rusty and smoked part1 trim it nicely on the under side1 and scrape the rind as clean as possible4 ,,mem4--,bacon is an extravagant article in housekeeping2 there is often twice as much dressed as need be3 when it is sent to table as an accompaniment to boiled poultry or veal1 a pound and a half is plenty for a dozen people4 ,a good ,german sausage is a very economical substitute for bacon2 or fried pork sausages 7,no4 #hg74 ,ham1--7,no4 #ad47 ,though of the bacon kind1 has been so altered and hardened in the curing1 that it requires still more care4 ,ham is generally not half-soaked2 as salt as brine1 and hard as flint2 and it would puzzle the stomach of an ostrich to digest it4 ,,mem4--,the salt1 seasoning1 and smoke1 which preserve it before it is eaten1 prevent its solution after2 and unless it be very long and very gently stewed1 the strongest stomach will have a tough job to extract any nourishment from it4 ,if it is a very dry ,westphalia ham1 it must be soaked1 according to its age and thickness1 from #ab to #bd hours2 for a green ,yorkshire or ,westmoreland ham1 from four to eight hours will be sufficient4 ,lukewarm water will soften it much sooner than cold1 when sufficiently soaked1 trim it nicely on the underside1 and pare off all the rusty and smoked parts till it looks delicately clean4 lb4 oz4 ,a ham weighed before it was soaked #ac ,after #ab #d ,boiled #ac #d ,trimmed for table #aj #ab ,give it plenty of water-room1 and put it in while the water is cold2 let it heat very gradually1 and let it be on the fire an hour and a half before it comes to a boil2 let it be well skimmed1 and keep it simmering very gently3 a middling-sized ham of fifteen pounds will be done enough in about four or five hours1 according to its thickness4 ,if not to be cut till cold1 it will cut the shorter and tenderer for being boiled about half an hour longer4 ,in a very small family1 where a ham will last a week or ten days1 it is best economy not to cut it till it is cold1 it will be infinitely more juicy4 ,pull off the skin carefully1 and preserve it as whole as possible2 it will form an excellent covering to keep the ham moist2 when you have removed the skin1 rub some bread raspings through a hair-sieve1 or grate a crust of bread2 put it into the perforated cover of the dredging-box1 and shake it over it1 or glaze it2 trim the knuckle with a fringe of cut writing-paper4 ,you may garnish with spinage or turnips1 c4 ,obs4 ,to pot ham 7,no4 #eji71 is a much more useful and economical way of disposing of the remains of the joint1 than making essence of it 7,no4 #ceb74 ,to make soup of the liquor it is boiled in1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #eee4 ,tongue4--7,no4 #ae47 ,a tongue is so hard1 whether prepared by drying or pickling1 that it requires much more cooking than a ham2 nothing of its weight takes so long to dress it properly4 ,a tongue that has been salted and dried should be put to soak 7if it is old and very hard1 #bd hours before it is wanted7 in plenty of water2 a green one fresh from the pickle requires soaking only a few hours3 put your tongue into plenty of cold water2 let it be an hour gradually warming2 and give it from three and a half to four hours' very slow simmering1 according to the size1 c4 ,obs4 ,when you choose a tongue1 endeavour to learn how long it has been dried or pickled1 pick out the plumpest1 and that which has the smoothest skin1 which denotes its being young and tender4 ,the roots1 c4 make an excellent relish potted1 like ,no4 #eji1 or pease soup 7,no4 #bah74 ,n4,b4 ,our correspondent1 who wished us1 in this edition1 to give a receipt to roast a tongue1 will find an answer in ,no4 #hb4 ,turkeys1 ,capons1 ,fowls1 ,chickens1 c4--7,no4 #af47 ,are all boiled exactly in the same manner1 only allowing time1 according to their size4 ,for the stuffing1 c4 7,nos4 #cgd1 #cge1 and #cgg71 some of it made into balls1 and boiled or fried1 make a nice garnish1 and are handy to help2 and you can then reserve some of the inside stuffing to eat with the cold fowl1 or enrich the hash 7,nos4 #ecj and #ecc74 ,a chicken will take about #bj minutes4 ,a fowl #dj ,a fine five-toed fowl or a capon1 about an hour4 ,a small turkey1 an hour and a half4 ,a large one1 two hours or more4 ,chickens or fowls should be killed at least one or two days before they are to be dressed4 ,turkeys 7especially large ones7 should not be dressed till they have been killed three or four days at least1 in cold weather six or eight1 or they will neither look white nor eat tender4#abj-99 ,turkeys1 and large fowls1 should have the strings or sinews of the thighs drawn out4 ,truss them with the legs outward1 they are much easier carved4 ,fowls for boiling should be chosen as white as possible2 if their complexion is not so fair as you wish1 veil them in ,no4 #b of ,no4 #cfd2 those which have black legs should be roasted4 ,the best use of the liver is to make sauce 7,no4 #bhg74 ,poultry must be well washed in warm water2 if very dirty from the singeing1 c4 rub them with a little white soap2 but thoroughly rinse it off1 before you put them into the pot4 ,make a good and clear fire2 set on a clean pot1 with pure and clean water1 enough to well cover the turkey1 c42 the slower it boils1 the whiter and plumper it will be4 ,when there rises any scum1 remove it2 the common method of some 7who are more nice than wise7 is to wrap them up in a cloth1 to prevent the scum attaching to them2 which1 if it does1 by your neglecting to skim the pot1 there is no getting it off afterward1 and the poulterer is blamed for the fault of the cook4 ,if there be water enough1 and it is attentively skimmed1 the fowl will both look and eat much better this way than when it has been covered up in the cleanest cloth1 and the colour and flavour of your poultry will be preserved in the most delicate perfection4 ,obs4 ,turkey deserves to be accompanied by tongue 7,no4 #ae71 or ham 7,no4 #ad72 if these are not come-at-able1 don't forget pickled pork 7,no4 #aa71 or bacon and greens 7,nos4 #hc1 #ebf1 and #ebg71 or pork sausages 7,no4 #hg71 parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa72 don't pour it over1 but send it up in a boat2 liver 7,no4 #bhg71 egg 7,no4 #bfg71 or oyster sauce 7,no4 #bgh74 ,to warm cold turkey1 c4 see ,no4 #ecc1 and following4 ,to grill the gizzard and rump1 ,no4 #ech4 ,save a quart of the liquor the turkey was boiled in2 this1 with the bones and trimmings1 c4 will make good gravy for a hash1 c4 ,rabbits4--7,no4 #ag47 ,truss your rabbits short1 lay them in a basin of warm water for ten minutes1 then put them into plenty of water1 and boil them about half an hour2 if large ones1 three quarters2 if very old1 an hour3 smother them with plenty of white onion sauce 7,no4 #bih71 mince the liver1 and lay it round the dish1 or make liver sauce 7,no4 #bhg71 and send it up in a boat4 ,obs4 ,ask those you are going to make liver sauce for1 if they like plain liver sauce1 or liver and parsley1 or liver and lemon sauce 7,nos4 #bhg and #bhh74 ,n4,b4 ,it will save much trouble to the carver1 if the rabbits be cut up in the kitchen into pieces fit to help at table1 and the head divided1 one-half laid at each end1 and slices of lemon and the liver1 chopped very finely1 laid on the sides of the dish4 ,at all events1 cut off the head before you send it to table1 we hardly remember that the thing ever lived if we don't see the head1 while it may excite ugly ideas to see it cut up in an attitude imitative of life2 besides1 for the preservation of the head1 the poor animal sometimes suffers a slower death4 ,tripe4--7,no4 #ah47 ,take care to have fresh tripe2 cleanse it well from the fat1 and cut it into pieces about two inches broad and four long2 put it into a stew-pan1 and cover it with milk and water1 and let it boil gently till it is tender4 ,if the tripe has been prepared as it usually is at the tripe shops1 it will be enough in about an hour1 7this depends upon how long it has been previously boiled at the tripe shop72 if entirely undressed1 it will require two or three hours1 according to the age and quality of it4 ,make some onion sauce in the same manner as you do for rabbits 7,no4 #bih71 or boil 7slowly by themselves7 some ,spanish or the whitest common onions you can get2 peel them before you boil them2 when they are tender1 which a middling-sized onion will be in about three-quarters of an hour1 drain them in a hair-sieve1 take off the top skins till they look nice and white1 and put them with the tripe into a tureen or soup-dish1 and take off the fat if any floats on the surface4 ,obs4 ,rashers of bacon 7,nos4 #ebf and #ebg71 or fried sausages 7,no4 #hg71 are a very good accompaniment to boiled tripe1 cow-heels 7,no4 #aih71 or calf's feet1 see ,mr4 ,mich4 ,kelly's sauce 7,no4 #caa9971 or parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa71 or caper sauce 7,no4 #bgd71 with a little vinegar and mustard added to them1 or salad mixture 7,no4 #cgb or #dec74 ,tripe holds the same rank among solids1 that water-gruel does among soups1 and the former is desirable at dinner1 when the latter is welcome at supper4 ,read ,no4 #egb4 ,cow-,heel1--7,no4 #ah4997 ,in the hands of a skilful cook1 will furnish several good meals2 when boiled tender 7,no4 #aih71 cut it into handsome pieces1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and fry them a light brown2 lay them round a dish1 and put in the middle of it sliced onions fried1 or the accompaniments ordered for tripe4 ,the liquor they were boiled in will make soups 7,no4 #bbi1 #bdj991 or ,no4 #eee74 ,n4,b4 ,we give no receipts to boil venison1 geese1 ducks1 pheasants1 woodcocks1 and peacocks1 c4 as our aim has been to make a useful book1 not a big one 7see ,no4 #hb74 ,,footnotes3 #ajh-99 ,the gigot is the leg with part of the loin4 #aaa-99 ,if not to be cut till cold1 two days longer salting will not only improve its flavour1 but the meat will keep better4 #aaa- ,in the ,west ,indies they can scarcely cure beef with pickle1 but easily preserve it by cutting it into thin slices and dipping them in sea-water1 and then drying them quickly in the sun2 to which they give the name of jerked beef4--,,brownrigg on ,salt1 #hvo4 p4 #gfb4 #aae-99 ,this1 salted1 makes a very pretty supper-dish4 #abj-99 ,,baker1 in his ,chronicle1 tells us the turkey did not reach ,england till ,a4 ,d4 #aebd1 about the #aeth of ,henry the #hth2 he says1 ,turkies1 carps1 hoppes1 piccarell1 and beere1 ,came into ,england all in one year4 ,,roasting4 ,n4,b4--,if the time we have allowed for roasting appears rather longer than what is stated in former works1 we can only say1 we have written from actual experiments1 and that the difference may be accounted for1 by common cooks generally being fond of too fierce a fire1 and of putting things too near to it4 ,our calculations are made for a temperature of about fifty degrees of ,fahrenheit4 ,,slow ,,roasting is as advantageous to the tenderness and favour of meat as slow boiling1 of which every body understands the importance4 ,see the account of ,count ,rumford's shoulder of mutton4 ,the warmer the weather1 and the staler killed the meat is1 the less time it will require to roast it4 ,meat that is very fat1 requires more time than we have stated4 ,,beef is in proper season throughout the whole year4 ,sirloin of ,beef4--7,no4 #ai47 ,the noble sirloin#abb-99 of about fifteen pounds 7if much thicker1 the outside will be done too much before the inside is enough71 will require to be before the fire about three and a half or four hours2 take care to spit it evenly1 that it may not be heavier on one side than the other2 put a little clean dripping into the dripping-pan1 7tie a sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat1#abc-997 baste it well as soon as it is put down1 and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting1 till the last half hour2 then take off the paper1 and make some gravy for it 7,no4 #cbf72 stir the fire and make it clear3 to brown and froth it1 sprinkle a little salt over it1 baste it with butter1 and dredge it with flour2 let it go a few minutes longer1 till the froth rises1 take it up1 put it on the dish1 c4 ,garnish it with hillocks of horseradish1 scraped as fine as possible with a very sharp knife1 7,nos4 #deh and #cii9974 ,a ,yorkshire pudding is an excellent accompaniment 7,no4 #eie1 or ,no4 #eed74 ,obs4 ,the inside of the sirloin must never be cut#abc- hot1 but reserved entire for the hash1 or a mock hare 7,no4 #ff9974 7,for various ways of dressing the inside of the sirloin1 ,no4 #dhc2 for the receipt to hash or broil beef1 ,no4 #dhd1 and ,nos4 #dhf and #dhg2 and for other ways of employing the remains of a joint of cold beef1 ,nos4 #ejc1 #d1 #e1 #f74 ,ribs of ,beef4--7,no4 #bj74 ,the first three ribs1 of fifteen or twenty pounds1 will take three hours1 or three and a half3 the fourth and fifth ribs will lake as long1 managed in the same way as the sirloin4 ,paper the fat1 and the thin part1 or it will be done too much1 before the thick part is done enough4 ,n4,b4 ,a pig-iron placed before it on the bars of the grate answers every purpose of keeping the thin part from being too much done4 ,obs4 ,many persons prefer the ribs to the sirloin4 ,ribs of ,beef boned and rolled4--7,no4 #ba47 ,when you have kept two or three ribs of beef till quite tender1 take out the bones1 and skewer it as round as possible 7like a fillet of veal73 before they roll it1 some cooks egg it1 and sprinkle it with veal stuffing 7,no4 #cgd74 ,as the meat is more in a solid mass1 it will require more time at the fire than in the preceding receipt2 a piece of ten or twelve pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less than four and a half or five hours4 ,for the first half hour1 it should not be less than twelve inches from the fire1 that it may get gradually warm to the centre3 the last half hour before it will be finished1 sprinkle a little salt over it2 and if you wish to froth it1 flour it1 c4 ,,mutton4#abd-99--7,no4 #bc47 ,as beef requires a large1 sound fire1 mutton must have a brisk and sharp one4 ,if you wish to have mutton tender1 it should be hung almost as long as it will keep2#abd- and then good eight-tooth1 i4 e4 four years old mutton1 is as good eating as venison1 if it is accompanied by ,nos4 #cbi and #cdf4 ,the leg1 haunch1 and saddle will be the better for being hung up in a cool airy place for four or five days at least2 in temperate weather1 a week2 in cold weather1 ten days4 ,if you think your mutton will not be tender enough to do honour to the spit1 dress it as a gigot de sept heures4 ,see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #a and ,no4 #dic4 ,a ,leg1--7,no4 #bd47 ,of eight pounds1 will take about two hours3 let it be well basted1 and frothed in the same manner as directed in ,no4 #ai4 ,to hash mutton1 ,no4 #dhd4 ,to broil it1 ,no4 #dhg1 c4 ,a ,chine or ,saddle1--7,no4 #bf47 7i4 e4 the two loins7 of ten or eleven pounds1 two hours and a half3 it is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it on again1 to defend the meat from extreme heat1 and preserve its succulence2 if this is neglected1 tie a sheet of paper over it 7baste the strings you tie it on with directly1 or they will burn73 about a quarter of an hour before you think it will be done1 take off the skin or paper1 that it may get a pale brown colour1 then baste it and flour it lightly to froth it4 ,we like ,no4 #cdf for sauce4 ,n4,b4 ,desire the butcher to cut off the flaps and the tail and chump end1 and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten4 ,this will reduce a saddle of eleven pounds weight to about six or seven pounds4 ,a ,shoulder1--7,no4 #bg47 ,of seven pounds1 an hour and a half4 ,put the spit in close to the shank-bone1 and run it along the blade-bone4 ,n4,b4 ,the blade-bone is a favourite luncheon or supper relish1 scored1 peppered and salted1 and broiled1 or done in a ,dutch oven4 ,a ,loin1#abe-99--7,no4 #bh47 ,of mutton1 from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters4 ,the most elegant way of carving this1 is to cut it lengthwise1 as you do a saddle3 read ,no4 #bf4 ,n4,b4 ,spit it on a skewer or lark spit1 and tie that on the common spit1 and do not spoil the meat by running the spit through the prime part of it4 ,a ,neck1--7,no4 #bi47 ,about the same time as a loin4 ,it must be carefully jointed1 or it is very difficult to carve4 ,the neck and breast are1 in small families1 commonly roasted together2 the cook will then crack the bones across the middle before they are put down to roast3 if this is not done carefully1 they are very troublesome to carve4 ,tell the cook1 when she takes it from the spit1 to separate them before she sends them to table4 ,obs4--,if there is more fat than you think will be eaten with the lean1 cut it off1 and it will make an excellent suet pudding 7,no4 #eea1 or ,no4 #eed74 ,n4,b4 ,the best way to spit this is to run iron skewers across it1 and put the spit between them4 ,a ,breast1--7,no4 #cj47 ,an hour and a quarter4 ,to grill a breast of mutton1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #ch4 ,a ,haunch1--7,no4 #ca47 7i4 e4 the leg and part of the loin7 of mutton3 send up two sauce-boats with it2 one of rich mutton gravy1 made without spice or herbs 7,no4 #cdg71 and the other of sweet sauce 7,no4 #cdf74 ,it generally weighs about #ae pounds1 and requires about three hours and a half to roast it4 ,mutton1 venison fashion4--7,no4 #cb47 ,take a neck of good four or five years old ,southdown wether mutton1 cut long in the bones2 let it hang 7in temperate weather7 at least a week3 two days before you dress it1 take allspice and black pepper1 ground and pounded fine1 a quarter of an ounce each2 rub them together1 and then rub your mutton well with this mixture twice a day4 ,when you dress it1 wash off the spice with warm water1 and roast in paste1 as we have ordered the haunch of venison4 7,no4 #fc74 ,obs4--,persevering and ingenious epicures have invented many methods to give mutton the flavour of venison4 ,some say that mutton1 prepared as above1 may be mistaken for venison2 others1 that it is full as good4 ,the refined palate of a grand gourmand 7in spite of the spice and wine the meat has been fuddled and rubbed with7 will perhaps still protest against ,welch venison2 and indeed we do not understand by what conjuration allspice and claret can communicate the flavour of venison to mutton4 ,we confess our fears that the flavour of venison 7especially of its fat7 is inimitable2 but believe you may procure prime eight-toothed wether mutton1 keep it the proper time1 and send it to table with the accompaniments 7,nos4 #cdf and #cdg1 c47 usually given to venison1 and a rational epicure will eat it with as much satisfaction as he would feed on the king's fallow deer4 ,,veal4--7,no4 #cc47 ,,veal requires particular care to roast it a nice brown4 ,let the fire be the same as for beef2 a sound large fire for a large joint1 and a brisker for a smaller2 put it at some distance from the fire to soak thoroughly1 and then draw it near to finish it brown4 ,when first laid down1 it is to be basted2 baste it again occasionally4 ,when the veal is on the dish1 pour over it half a pint of melted butter 7,no4 #bef73 if you have a little brown gravy by you1 add that to the butter 7,no4 #cbf74 ,with those joints which are not stuffed1 send up forcemeat 7,no4 #cgd1 or ,no4 #cge7 in balls1 or rolled into sausages1 as garnish to the dish1 or fried pork sausages 7,no4 #hg72 bacon 7,no4 #ac1 or ,no4 #ebf1 or ,no4 #ebg71 and greens1 are also always expected with veal4 ,fillet of ,veal1--7,no4 #cd47 ,of from twelve to sixteen pounds1 will require from four to five hours at a good fire2 make some stuffing or forcemeat 7,no4 #cgd or #e71 and put it in under the flap1 that there may be some left to eat cold1 or to season a hash2#abg-99 brown it1 and pour good melted butter 7,no4 #bff7 over it1 as directed in ,no4 #cc4 ,garnish with thin slices of lemon and cakes or balls of stuffing1 or ,no4 #cgd1 or ,no4 #cge1 or duck stuffing 7,no4 #fa71 or fried pork sausages 7,no4 #hg71 curry sauce 7,no4 #cdh71 bacon 7,no4 #ac71 and greens1 c4 ,n4,b4 ,potted veal 7,no4 #ecc74 ,obs4--,a bit of the brown outside is a favourite with the epicure in roasts4 ,the kidney1 cut out1 sliced1 and broiled 7,no4 #ceh71 is a high relish1 which some bons vivants are fond of4 ,a ,loin1--7,no4 #ce47 ,is the best part of the calf1 and will take about three hours roasting4 ,paper the kidney fat1 and the back3 some cooks send it up on a toast1 which is eaten with the kidney and the fat of this part1 which is as delicate as any marrow4 ,if there is more of it than you think will be eaten with the veal1 before you roast it cut it out2 it will make an excellent suet pudding3 take care to have your fire long enough to brown the ends2 same accompaniments as ,no4 #cd4 ,a ,shoulder1--7,no4 #cf47 ,from three hours to three hours and a half2 stuff it with the forcemeat ordered for the fillet of veal1 in the under side1 or balls made of ,no4 #cgd4 ,neck1 best end1--7,no4 #cg47 ,will take two hours2 same accompaniments as ,no4 #cd4 ,the scrag part is best made into a pie1 or broth4 ,breast1--7,no4 #ch47 ,from an hour and a half to two hours4 ,let the caul remain till it is almost done1 then take it off to brown it2 baste1 flour1 and froth it4 ,obs4--,this makes a savoury relish for a luncheon or supper3 or1 instead of roasting1 boil it enough2 put it in a cloth between two pewter dishes1 with a weight on the upper one1 and let it remain so till cold2 then pare and trim1 egg1 and crumb it1 and broil1 or warm it in a ,dutch oven2 serve with it capers 7,no4 #bgd71 or wow wow sauce 7,no4 #cbh74 ,breast of mutton may be dressed the same way4 ,veal ,sweetbread4--7,no4 #ci47 ,trim a fine sweetbread 7it cannot be too fresh72 parboil it for five minutes1 and throw it into a basin of cold water4 ,roast it plain1 or ,beat up the yelk of an egg1 and prepare some fine bread-crumbs3 when the sweetbread is cold1 dry it thoroughly in a cloth2 run a lark-spit or a skewer through it1 and tie it on the ordinary spit2 egg it with a paste-brush2 powder it well with bread-crumbs1 and roast it4 ,for sauce1 fried bread-crumbs round it1 and melted butter1 with a little mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 and lemon-juice 7,nos4 #cjg1 #ced1 or #cef71 or serve them on buttered toast1 garnished with egg sauce 7,no4 #bfg71 or with gravy 7,no4 #cbi74 ,obs4--,instead of spitting them1 you may put them into a tin ,dutch oven1 or fry them 7,nos4 #hh1 #hi1 or #eac74 ,,lamb1--7,no4 #dj47 ,is a delicate1 and commonly considered tender meat2 but those who talk of tender lamb1 while they are thinking of the age of the animal1 forget that even a chicken must be kept a proper time after it has been killed1 or it will be tough picking4 ,woful experience has warned us to beware of accepting an invitation to dinner on ,easter ,sunday1 unless commanded by a thorough-bred gourmand2 our incisores1 molares1 and principal viscera have protested against the imprudence of encountering young1 tough1 stringy mutton1 under the misnomen of grass lamb4 ,the proper name for ,easter grass lamb is hay mutton4 ,to the usual accompaniments of roasted meat1 green mint sauce 7,no4 #cjc71 a salad 7,nos4 #cgb and #ach9971 is commonly added2 and some cooks1 about five minutes before it is done1 sprinkle it with a little fresh gathered and finely minced parsley1 or ,no4 #cah3 lamb1 and all young meats1 ought to be thoroughly done2 therefore do not take either lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop white gravy4 ,grass lamb is in season from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,house lamb from ,christmas to ,lady-day4 ,sham lamb1 see ,obs4 to following receipt4 ,n4,b4 ,when green mint cannot be got1 mint vinegar 7,no4 #cih7 is an acceptable substitute for it2 and crisp parsley 7,no4 #cah71 on a side plate1 is an admirable accompaniment4 ,hind-,quarter1--7,no4 #da74 ,of eight pounds1 will take from an hour and three-quarters to two hours3 baste and froth it in the same way as directed in ,no4 #ai4 ,obs4--,a quarter of a porkling is sometimes skinned1 cut1 and dressed lamb-fashion1 and sent up as a substitute for it4 ,the leg and the loin of lamb1 when little1 should be roasted together2 the former being lean1 the latter fat1 and the gravy is better preserved4 ,fore-,quarter1--7,no4 #db47 ,of ten pounds1 about two hours4 ,n4,b4 ,it is a pretty general custom1 when you take off the shoulder from the ribs1 to squeeze a ,seville orange over them1 and sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt4 ,obs4--,this may as well be done by the cook before it comes to table2 some people are not remarkably expert at dividing these joints nicely4 ,leg1--7,no4 #dc47 ,of five pounds1 from an hour to an hour and a half4 ,shoulder1--7,no4 #dd47 ,with a quick fire1 an hour4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #bg4 ,ribs1--7,no4 #de47 ,about an hour to an hour and a quarter3 joint it nicely1 crack the ribs across1 and divide them from the brisket after it is roasted4 ,loin1--7,no4 #df47 ,an hour and a quarter4 ,neck1--7,no4 #dg47 ,an hour4 ,breast1--7,no4 #dh47 ,three-quarters of an hour4 ,,pork4--7,no4 #di47 ,the prime season for pork is from ,michaelmas to ,march4 ,take particular care it be done enough3 other meats under-done are unpleasant1 but pork is absolutely uneatable2 the sight of it is enough to appal the sharpest appetite1 if its gravy has the least tint of redness4 ,be careful of the crackling2 if this be not crisp1 or if it be burned1 you will be scolded4 ,for sauces1 ,no4 #cjj1 ,no4 #cjd1 and ,no4 #cdb4 ,obs4--,pease pudding 7,no4 #eee7 is as good an accompaniment to roasted1 as it is to boiled pork2 and most palates are pleased with the savoury powder set down in ,no4 #ea1 or bread-crumbs1 mixed with sage and onion1 minced very fine1 or zest 7,no4 #bee7 sprinkled over it4 ,n4,b4 ,the western pigs1 from ,berks1 ,oxford1 and ,bucks1 possess a decided superiority over the eastern1 of ,essex1 ,sussex1 and ,norfolk2 not to forget another qualification of the former1 at which some readers may smile1 a thickness of the skin2 whence the crackling of the roasted pork is a fine gelatinous substance1 which may be easily masticated2 while the crackling of the thin-skinned breeds is roasted into good block tin1 the reduction of which would almost require teeth of iron4--,,moubray on ,poultry1 #ahaf1 page #bdb4 ,a ,leg1--7,no4 #ej47 ,of eight pounds1 will require about three hours3 score the skin across in narrow stripes 7some score it in diamonds71 about a quarter of an inch apart2 stuff the knuckle with sage and onion1 minced fine1 and a little grated bread1 seasoned with pepper1 salt1 and the yelk of an egg4 ,see ,duck ,stuffing1 7,no4 #fa47 ,do not put it too near the fire3 rub a little sweet oil on the skin with a paste-brush1 or a goose-feather3 this makes the crackling crisper and browner than basting it with dripping2 and it will be a better colour than all the art of cookery can make it in any other way2 and this is the best way of preventing the skin from blistering1 which is principally occasioned by its being put too near the fire4 ,leg of ,pork roasted without the ,skin1 commonly called ,,mock ,,goose4#aca-99--7,no4 #ea47 ,parboil it2 take off the skin1 and then put it down to roast2 baste it with butter1 and make a savoury powder of finely minced1 or dried and powdered sage1 ground black pepper1 salt1 and some bread-crumbs1 rubbed together through a colander2 you may add to this a little very finely minced onion3 sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted4 ,put half a pint of made gravy into the dish1 and goose stuffing 7,no4 #cgh7 under the knuckle skin2 or garnish the dish with balls of it fried or boiled4 ,the ,griskin1--7,no4 #eb47 ,of seven or eight pounds1 may be dressed in the same manner4 ,it will take an hour and a half roasting4 ,a ,bacon ,spare-,rib1--7,no4 #ec47 ,usually weighs about eight or nine pounds1 and will take from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly2 not exactly according to its weight1 but the thickness of the meat upon it1 which varies very much4 ,lay the thick end nearest to the fire4 ,a proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds weight 7so called because almost all the meat is pared off71 with a steady fire1 will be done in an hour and a quarter4 ,there is so little meat on a bald spare-rib1 that if you have a large1 fierce fire1 it will be burned before it is warm through4 ,joint it nicely1 and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb4 ,when you put it down to roast1 dust on some flour1 and baste it with a little butter2 dry a dozen sage leaves1 and rub them through a hair-sieve1 and put them into the top of a pepper-box2 and about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done1 baste it with butter2 dust the pulverized sage1 or the savoury powder in ,no4 #ea2 or sprinkle with duck stuffing 7,no4 #fa74 ,obs4--,make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any thing that is roasted2 by so doing1 the dredging1 c4 is washed off1 and it eats insipid4 ,some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the thick part at the bottom of the bones4 ,when this meat is cut away1 the bones may be easily separated1 and are esteemed very sweet picking4 ,apple sauce 7,no4 #cjd71 mashed potatoes 7,no4 #ajf71 and good mustard 7,no4 #cgj17 are indispensable4 ,loin1--7,no4 #ed47 ,of five pounds1 must be kept at a good distance from the fire on account of the crackling1 and will take about two hours2 if very fat1 half an hour longer4 ,stuff it with duck stuffing 7,no4 #cgh74 ,score the skin in stripes1 about a quarter of an inch apart1 and rub it with salad oil1 as directed in ,no4 #ej4 ,you may sprinkle over it some of the savoury powder recommended for the mock goose 7,no4 #ea74 ,a ,chine4--7,no4 #ee47 ,if parted down the back-bone so as to have but one side1 a good fire will roast it in two hours2 if not parted1 three hours4 ,n4,b4 ,chines are generally salted and boiled4 ,a ,sucking-,pig1#acc-99--7,no4 #ef47 ,is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old4 ,it loses part of its goodness every hour after it is killed2 if not quite fresh1 no art can make the crackling crisp4 ,to be in perfection1 it should be killed in the morning to be eaten at dinner3 it requires very careful roasting4 ,a sucking-pig1 like a young child1 must not be left for an instant4 ,the ends must have much more fire than the middle3 for this purpose is contrived an iron to hang before the middle part1 called a pig-iron4 ,if you have not this1 use a common flat iron1 or keep the fire fiercest at the two ends4 ,for the stuffing1 take of the crumb of a stale loaf about five ounces2 rub it through a colander2 mince fine a handful of sage 7i4 e4 about two ounces71 and a large onion 7about an ounce and a half#acc-74 ,mix these together with an egg1 some pepper and salt1 and a bit of butter as big as an egg4 ,fill the belly of the pig with this1 and sew it up3 lay it to the fire1 and baste it with salad oil till it is quite done4 ,do not leave it a moment3 it requires the most vigilant attendance4 ,roast it at a clear1 brisk fire at some distance4 ,to gain the praise of epicurean pig-eaters1 the crackling must be nicely crisped and delicately lightly browned1 without being either blistered or burnt4 ,a small1 three weeks old pig will be done enough#acc- in about an hour and a half4 ,before you take it from the fire1 cut off the head1 and part that and the body down the middle3 chop the brains very fine1 with some boiled sage leaves1 and mix them with good veal gravy1 made as directed in ,no4 #aib1 or beef gravy 7,no4 #cbi71 or what runs from the pig when you cut its head off4 ,send up a tureenful of gravy 7,no4 #cbi7 besides4 ,currant sauce is still a favourite with some of the old school4 ,lay your pig back to back in the dish1 with one half of the head on each side1 and the ears one at each end1 which you must take care to make nice and crisp2 or you will get scolded1 and deservedly1 as the silly fellow was who bought his wife a pig with only one ear4 ,when you cut off the pettitoes1 leave the skin long round the ends of the legs4 ,when you first lay the pig before the fire1 rub it all over with fresh butter or salad oil3 ten minutes after1 and the skin looks dry2 dredge it well with flour all over1 let it remain on an hour1 then rub it off with a soft cloth4 ,n4 ,b4 ,a pig is a very troublesome subject to roast2 most persons have them baked4 ,send a quarter of a pound of butter1 and beg the baker to baste it well4 ,turkey1 ,turkey ,poults1 and other ,poultry4--7,no4 #eg47 ,a fowl and a turkey require the same management at the fire1 only the latter will take longer time4 ,many a ,christmas dinner has been spoiled by the turkey having been hung up in a cold larder1 and becoming thoroughly frozen2 ,jack ,frost has ruined the reputation of many a turkey-roaster3 therefore1 in very cold weather1 remember the note in the #eth page of the #c;d chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,let them be carefully picked1 c4 and break the breast-bone 7to make them look plump71 twist up a sheet of clean writing-paper1 light it1 and thoroughly singe the turkey all over1 turning it about over the flame4 ,turkeys1 fowls1 and capons have a much better appearance1 if1 instead of trussing them with the legs close together1 and the feet cut off1 the legs are extended on each side of the bird1 and the toes only cut off with a skewer through each foot1 to keep them at a proper distance4 ,be careful1 when you draw it1 to preserve the liver1 and not to break the gall-bag1 as no washing will take off the bitter taste it gives1 where it once touches4 ,prepare a nice1 clear1 brisk fire for it4 ,make stuffing according to ,no4 #cgd1 or #cgf2 stuff it under the breast1 where the craw was taken out1 and make some into balls1 and boil or fry them1 and lay them round the dish2 they are handy to help1 and you can then reserve some of the inside stuffing to eat with the cold turkey1 or to enrich a hash 7,no4 #ecc74 ,score the gizzard1 dip it into the yelk of an egg or melted butter1 and sprinkle it with salt and a few grains of ,cayenne2 put it under one pinion and the liver under the other2 cover the liver with buttered paper1 to prevent it from getting hardened or burnt4 ,when you first put a turkey down to roast1 dredge it with flour2 then put about an ounce of butter into a basting-ladle1 and as it melts1 baste the bird therewith4 ,keep it at a distance from the fire for the first half hour1 that it may warm gradually2 then put it nearer1 and when it is plumped up1 and the steam draws in towards the fire1 it is nearly enough2 then dredge it lightly with flour1 and put a bit of butter into your basting-ladle1 and as it melts1 baste the turkey with it2 this will raise a finer froth than can be produced by using the fat out of the pan4 ,a very large turkey will require about three hours to roast it thoroughly2 a middling-sized one1 of eight or ten pounds 7which is far nicer eating than the very large one71 about two hours2 a small one may be done in an hour and a half4 ,turkey poults are of various sizes1 and will take about an hour and a half2 they should be trussed1 with their legs twisted under like a duck1 and the head under the wing like a pheasant4 ,fried pork sausages 7,no4 #hg7 are a very savoury and favourite accompaniment to either roasted or boiled poultry4 ,a turkey thus garnished is called an alderman in chains4 ,sausage-meat is sometimes used as stuffing1 instead of the ordinary forcemeat4 7,no4 #cgf1 c47 ,,mem4 ,if you wish a turkey1 especially a very large one1 to be tender1 never dress it till at least four or five days 7in cold weather1 eight or ten7 after it has been killed4 ,no man who understands good living will say1 on such a day ,i will eat that turkey2 but will hang it up by four of the large tail-feathers1 and when1 on paying his morning visit to the larder1 he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it when it falls1 that day let it be cooked4 ,hen turkeys are preferable to cocks for whiteness and tenderness1 and the small fleshy ones with black legs are most esteemed4 ,send up with them oyster 7,no4 #bgh71 egg 7,no4 #bfg71 bread 7,no4 #bba71 and plenty of gravy sauce 7,no4 #cbi74 ,to hash turkey1 ,no4 #ecc4 ,,mem4 ,some epicures are very fond of the gizzard and rump1 peppered and salted1 and broiled4 7,see ,no4 #ech1 how to dress a devil with vritable sauce d'enfer667 ,capons or ,fowls1--7,no4 #eh47 ,must be killed a couple of days in moderate1 and more in cold weather1 before they are dressed1 or they will eat tough3 a good criterion of the ripeness of poultry for the spit1 is the ease with which you can then pull out the feathers2 when a fowl is plucked1 leave a few to help you to ascertain this4 ,they are managed exactly in the same manner1 and sent up with the same sauces as a turkey1 only they require proportionably less time at the fire4 ,a full-grown five-toed fowl1 about an hour and a quarter4 ,a moderate-sized one1 an hour4 ,a chicken1 from thirty to forty minutes4 ,here1 also1 pork sausages fried 7,no4 #hg7 are in general a favourite accompaniment1 or turkey stuffing2 see forcemeats 7,nos4 #cgd1 #e1 #f1 and #g72 put in plenty of it1 so as to plump out the fowl1 which must be tied closely 7both at the neck and rump71 to keep in the stuffing4 ,some cooks put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat1 and others mince it and pound it1 and rub it up with flour and melted butter 7,no4 #bhg74 ,when the bird is stuffed and trussed1 score the gizzard nicely1 dip it into melted butter1 let it drain1 and then season it with ,cayenne and salt2 put it under one pinion1 and the liver under the other2 to prevent their getting hardened or scorched1 cover them with double paper buttered4 ,take care that your roasted poultry be well browned2 it is as indispensable that roasted poultry should have a rich brown complexion1 as boiled poultry should have a delicate white one4 ,obs4 ,the art of fattening poultry for the market is a considerable branch of rural economy in some convenient situations1 and consists in supplying them with plenty of healthy food1 and confining them2 and ducks and geese must be prevented from going into water1 which prevents them from becoming fat1 and they also thereby acquire a rancid1 fishy taste4 ,they are put into a dark place1 and crammed with a paste made of barley meal1 mutton-suet1 and some treacle or coarse sugar mixed with milk1 and are found to be completely ripe in a fortnight4 ,if kept longer1 the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletion renders them red and unsaleable1 and frequently kills them4 ,but exercise is as indispensable to the health of poultry as other creatures2 without it1 the fat will be all accumulated in the cellular membrane1 instead of being dispersed through its system4 ,see ,,moubray on breeding and fattening domestic ,poultry1 #abmo4 #ahai4 ,fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferred to those called barn-door fowls2 whom we have heard say1 that they should as soon think of ordering a barn-door for dinner as a barn-door fowl4 ,the age of poultry makes all the difference3 nothing is tenderer than a young chicken2 few things are tougher than an old cock or hen1 which is only fit to make broth4 ,the meridian of perfection of poultry is just before they have come to their full growth1 before they have begun to harden4 ,for sauces1 see ,no4 #cje1 or liver and parsley1 ,no4 #bhg1 and those ordered in the last receipt4 ,to hash it1 ,no4 #ecc4 ,goose4--7,no4 #ei47 ,when a goose is well picked1 singed1 and cleaned1 make the stuffing with about two ounces of onion1#acg-99 and half as much green sage1 chop them very fine1 adding four ounces1 i4 e4 about a large breakfast-cupful of stale bread-crumbs1 a bit of butter about as big as a walnut1 and a very little pepper and salt 7to this some cooks add half the liver1#acg- parboiling it first71 the yelk of an egg or two1 and incorporating the whole well together1 stuff the goose2 do not quite fill it1 but leave a little room for the stuffing to swell2 spit it1 tie it on the spit at both ends1 to prevent its swinging round1 and to keep the stuffing from coming out4 ,from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters1 will roast a fine full-grown goose4 ,send up gravy and apple sauce with it 7see ,nos4 #cjj1 #cjd1 #cbi1 and #cda74 ,to hash it1 see ,no4 #ecj4 ,for another stuffing for geese1 see ,no4 #cgh4 ,obs4 ,goose-feeding in the vicinity of the metropolis is so large a concern1 that one person annually feeds for market upwards of #ejjj4 ,a goose on a farm in ,scotland1 two years since1 of the clearly ascertained age of #hi years1 healthy and vigorous1 was killed by a sow while sitting over her eggs2 it was supposed she might have lived many years1 and her fecundity appeared to be permanent4 ,other geese have been proved to reach the age of #gj years4 ,,moubray on ,poultry1 p4 #dj4 ,it appears in ,dr4 ,,stark',s ,experiments on ,diet1 p4 #aaj1 that when he fed upon roasted goose1 he was more vigorous both in body and mind than with any other diet4 ,the goose at ,michaelmas is as famous in the mouths of the million1 as the minced-pie at ,christmas2 but for those who eat with delicacy1 it is by that time too full-grown4 ,the true period when the goose is in its highest perfection1 is when it has just acquired its full growth1 and not begun to harden4 ,if the ,march goose is insipid1 the ,michaelmas goose is rank2 the fine time is between both1 from the second week in ,june to the first in ,september3 the leg is not the most tender part of a goose4 ,see ,mock ,goose 7,no4 #ea74 ,green ,goose4--7,no4 #fj47 ,geese are called green till they are about four months old4 ,the only difference between roasting these and a full-grown goose1 consists in seasoning it with pepper and salt instead of sage and onion1 and roasting it for forty or fifty minutes only4 ,obs4 ,this is one of the least desirable of those insipid premature productions1 which are esteemed dainties4 ,duck4--7,no4 #fa47 ,mind your duck is well cleaned1 and wiped out with a clean cloth3 for the stuffing1 take an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage2 chop them very fine1 and mix them with two ounces1 i4 e4 about a breakfast-cupful1 of bread-crumbs1 a bit of butter about as big as a walnut1 a very little black pepper and salt1 7some obtuse palates may require warming with a little ,cayenne1 ,no4 #djd17 and the yelk of an egg to bind it2 mix these thoroughly together1 and put into the duck4 ,for another stuffing1 see ,no4 #cgh4 ,from half to three-quarters of an hour will be enough to roast it1 according to the size3 contrive to have the feet delicately crisp1 as some people are very fond of them2 to do this nicely you must have a sharp fire4 ,for sauce1 green pease 7,no4 #acd71 bonne bouche 7,no4 #cda71 gravy sauce 7,no4 #cbi71 and sage and onion sauce 7,no4 #cjj74 ,to hash or stew ducks1 see ,no4 #ecj4 ,n4,b4 ,if you think the raw onion will make too strong an impression upon the palate1 parboil it4 ,read ,obs4 to ,no4 #ei4 ,to ensure ducks being tender1 in moderate weather kill them a few days before you dress them4 ,haunch of ,venison4--7,no4 #fc47 ,to preserve the fat1 make a paste of flour and water1 as much as will cover the haunch2 wipe it with a dry cloth in every part2 rub a large sheet of paper all over with butter1 and cover the venison with it2 then roll out the paste about three-quarters of an inch thick2 lay this all over the fat side1 and cover it well with three or four sheets of strong white paper1 and tie it securely on with packthread3 have a strong1 close fire1 and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down to roast 7to prevent the paper and string from burning72 it must be well basted all the time4 ,a buck haunch generally weighs from #bj to #be pounds2 will take about four hours and a half roasting in warm1 and longer in cold weather3 a haunch of from #ai to #ah pounds will be done in about three or three and a half4 ,a quarter of an hour before it is done1 the string must be cut1 and the paste carefully taken off2 now baste it with butter1 dredge it lightly with flour1 and when the froth rises1 and it has got a very light brown colour1 garnish the knuckle-bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper1 and send it up1 with good1 strong 7but unseasoned7 gravy 7,no4 #cdg7 in one boat1 and currant-jelly sauce in the other1 or currant-jelly in a side plate 7not melted73 see for sauces1 ,nos4 #cdd1 #e1 #f1 and #g4 ,,mem4 the alderman's walk is the favourite part4 ,obs4 ,buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsummer to ,michaelmas1 and doe from ,november to ,january4 ,neck and ,shoulder of ,venison1--7,no4 #fd47 ,are to be managed in the same way as the haunch2 only they do not require the coat or paste1 and will not take so much time4 ,the best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through it1 and put the spit between the skewers and the bones4 ,a ,fawn1--7,no4 #fe47 ,like a sucking-pig1 should be dressed almost as soon as killed4 ,when very young1 it is trussed1 stuffed1 and spitted the same way as a hare3 but they are better eating when of the size of a house lamb1 and are then roasted in quarters2 the hind-quarter is most esteemed4 ,they must be put down to a very quick fire1 and either basted all the time they are roasting1 or be covered with sheets of fat bacon2 when done1 baste it with butter1 and dredge it with a little salt and flour1 till you make a nice froth on it4 ,n4,b4 ,we advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon as they receive it1 and then make a hash of it like ,no4 #ebh4 ,send up venison sauce with it4 ,see the preceding receipt1 or ,no4 #cdd1 c4 ,a ,kid4--7,no4 #fe9947 ,a young sucking-kid is very good eating2 to have it in prime condition1 the dam should be kept up1 and well fed1 c4 ,roast it like a fawn or hare4 ,hare4--7,no4 #ff47 ,inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus4--,,martial4 ,the first points of consideration are1 how old is the hare8 and how long has it been killed8 ,when young1 it is easy of digestion1 and very nourishing2 when old1 the contrary in every respect4 ,to ascertain the age1 examine the first joint of the forefoot2 you will find a small knob1 if it is a leveret1 which disappears as it grows older2 then examine the ears1 if they tear easily1 it will eat tender2 if they are tough1 so will be the hare1 which we advise you to make into soup 7,no4 #bda71 or stew or jug it 7,no4 #ebc74 ,when newly killed1 the body is stiff2 as it grows stale1 it becomes limp4 ,as soon as you receive a hare1 take out the liver1 parboil it1 and keep it for the stuffing2 some are very fond of it4 ,do not use it if it be not quite fresh and good4 ,some mince it1 and send it up as a garnish in little hillocks round the dish4 ,wipe the hare quite dry1 rub the inside with pepper1 and hang it up in a dry1 cool place4 ,paunch and skin#ada-99 your hare1 wash it1 and lay it in a large pan of cold water four or five hours1 changing the water two or three times2 lay it in a clean cloth1 and dry it well1 then truss it4 ,to make the stuffing1 see ,no4 #cgi4 ,do not make it too thin2 it should be of cohesive consistence3 if it is not sufficiently stiff1 it is good for nothing4 ,put this into the belly1 and sew it up tight4 ,cut the neck-skin to let the blood out1 or it will never appear to be done enough2 spit it1 and baste it with drippings1#ada- 7or the juices of the back will be dried up before the upper joints of the legs are half done17 till you think it is nearly done1 which a middling-sized hare will be in about an hour and a quarter4 ,when it is almost roasted enough1 put a little bit of butter into your basting-ladle1 and baste it with this1 and flour it1 and froth it nicely4 ,serve it with good gravy 7,no4 #cbi1 or ,no4 #cdg71 and currant-jelly4 ,for another stuffing1 see receipt ,no4 #cgi4 ,some cooks cut off the head and divide it1 and lay one half on each side the hare4 ,cold roast hare will make excellent soup 7,no4 #bda71 chopped to pieces1 and stewed in three quarts of water for a couple of hours2 the stuffing will be a very agreeable substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning4 ,see receipt for hare soup 7,no4 #bda71 hashed hare 7,no4 #ebi71 and mock hare1 next receipt4 ,mock ,hare4--7,no4 #ff4997 ,cut out the fillet 7i4 e4 the inside lean7 of a sirloin of beef1 leaving the fat to roast with the joint4 ,prepare some nice stuffing1 as directed for a hare in ,no4 #ff1 or #cgi2 put this on the beef1 and roll it up with tape1 put a skewer through it1 and tie that on a spit4 ,obs4 ,if the beef is of prime quality1 has been kept till thoroughly tender1 and you serve with it the accompaniments that usually attend roast hare 7,nos4 #cbi1 #cdd1 c471 or stew it1 and serve it with a rich thickened sauce garnished with forcemeat balls 7,no4 #cgi71 the most fastidious palate will have no reason to regret that the game season is over4 ,to make this into hare soup1 see ,no4 #bda4 ,rabbit4--7,no4 #fg47 ,if your fire is clear and sharp1 thirty minutes will roast a young1 and forty a full-grown rabbit4 ,when you lay it down1 baste it with butter1 and dredge it lightly and carefully with flour1 that you may have it frothy1 and of a fine light brown4 ,while the rabbit is roasting1 boil its liver#adb-99 with some parsley2 when tender1 chop them together1 and put half the mixture into some melted butter1 reserving the other half for garnish1 divided into little hillocks4 ,cut off the head1 and lay half on each side of the dish4 ,obs4 ,a fine1 well-grown 7but young7 warren rabbit1 kept some time after it has been killed1 and roasted with a stuffing in its belly1 eats very like a hare1 to the nature of which it approaches4 ,it is nice1 nourishing food when young1 but hard and unwholesome when old4 ,for sauces1 ,nos4 #bhg1 #bih1 and #cbi4 ,pheasant4--7,no4 #fh47 ,requires a smart fire1 but not a fierce one4 ,thirty minutes will roast a young bird1 and forty or fifty a full-grown pheasant4 ,pick and draw it1 cut a slit in the back of the neck1 and take out the craw1 but don't cut the head off2 wipe the inside of the bird with a clean cloth1 twist the legs close to the body1 leave the feet on1 but cut the toes off2 don't turn the head under the wing1 but truss it like a fowl1 it is much easier to carve2 baste it1 butter and froth it1 and prepare sauce for it 7,nos4 #cba and #cbi74 ,see the instructions in receipts to roast fowls and turkeys1 ,nos4 #eg and #eh4 ,obs4 ,we believe the rarity of this bird is its best recommendation2 and the character given it by an ingenious ,french author is just as good as it deserves4 ,its flesh is naturally tough1 and owes all its tenderness and succulence to the long time it is kept before it is cooked2 until it is bien mortifie1 it is uneatable#adb-4 ,therefore1 instead of sus per col1 suspend it by one of the long tail-feathers1 and the pheasant's falling from it is the criterion of its ripeness and readiness for the spit4 ,our president of the committee of taste 7who is indefatigable in his endeavours to improve the health1 as well as promote the enjoyment1 of his fellow-students in the school of good living1 and to whom the epicure1 the economist1 and the valetudinarian are equally indebted for his careful revision of this work1 and especially for introducing that salutary maxim into the kitchen1 that the salubrious is ever a superior consideration to the savoury1 and indeed1 the rational epicure only relishes the latter when entirely subordinate to the former71 has suggested to us1 that the detachment of the feather cannot take place until the body of the bird has advanced more than one degree beyond the state of wholesome haut-got1 and become trop mortifie2 and that to enjoy this game in perfection1 you must have a brace of birds killed the same day2 these are to be put in suspense as above directed1 and when one of them drops1 the hour is come that the spit should be introduced to his companion3-- ,ultra citraque nequit consistere rectum4 ,mock ,pheasant4--7,no4 #fi47 ,if you have only one pheasant1 and wish for a companion for it1 get a fine young fowl1 of as near as may be the same size as the bird to be matched1 and make game of it by trussing it like a pheasant1 and dressing it according to the above directions4 ,few persons will discover the pheasant from the fowl1 especially if the latter has been kept four or five days4 ,the peculiar flavour of the pheasant 7like that of other game7 is principally acquired by long keeping4 ,guinea and ,pea ,fowls1--7,no4 #fi9947 ,are dressed in the same way as pheasants4 ,partridges1--7,no4 #gj47 ,are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant 7but the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them very troublesome to carve72 the breast is so plump1 it will require almost as much roasting2 send up with them rich sauce 7,no4 #cba9971 or bread sauce 7,no4 #cba71 and good gravy 7,no4 #cbi74 99499 ,if you wish to preserve them longer than you think they will keep good undressed1 half roast them1 they will then keep two or three days longer2 or make a pie of them4 ,black ,cock 7,no4 #ga71 ,moor ,game 7,no4 #gb71 and ,grouse1 7,no4 #gc47 ,are all to be dressed like partridges2 the black cock will take as much as a pheasant1 and moor game and grouse as the partridge4 ,send up with them currant-jelly and fried bread-crumbs 7,no4 #cbj74 ,wild ,ducks4--7,no4 #gd47 ,for roasting a wild duck1 you must have a clear1 brisk fire1 and a hot spit2 it must be browned upon the outside1 without being sodden within4 ,to have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety4 ,prepare the fire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down1 and fifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the fashionable way2 but if you like it a little more done1 allow it a few minutes longer2 if it is too much1 it will lose its flavour4 ,for the sauce1 see ,no4 #cch and ,no4 #fb4 ,widgeons and ,teal1--7,no4 #ge47 ,are dressed exactly as the wild duck2 only that less time is requisite for a widgeon1 and still less for a teal4 ,woodcock4--7,no4 #gf47 ,woodcocks should not be drawn1 as the trail is by the lovers of haut got considered a bonne bouche2 truss their legs close to the body1 and run an iron skewer through each thigh1 close to the body1 and tie them on a small bird spit2 put them to roast at a clear fire2 cut as many slices of bread as you have birds1 toast or fry them a delicate brown1 and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch the trail2#add-99 baste them with butter1 and froth them with flour2 lay the toast on a hot dish1 and the birds on the toast2 pour some good beef gravy into the dish1 and send some up in a boat1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #cbi3 twenty or thirty minutes will roast them4 ,garnish with slices of lemon4 ,obs4--,some epicures like this bird very much under-done1 and direct that a woodcock should be just introduced to the cook1 for her to show it the fire1 and then send it up to table4 ,snipes1--7,no4 #gg47 ,differ little from woodcocks1 unless in size2 they are to be dressed in the same way1 but require about five minutes less time to roast them4 ,for sauce1 see ,no4 #cch4 ,pigeons4--7,no4 #gh47 ,when the pigeons are ready for roasting1 if you are desired to stuff them1 chop some green parsley very fine1 the liver1 and a bit of butter together1 with a little pepper and salt1 or with the stuffing ordered for a fillet of veal 7,no4 #cgd or ,no4 #cge71 and fill the belly of each bird with it4 ,they will be done enough in about twenty or thirty minutes2 send up parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa17 in the dish under them1 and some in a boat1 and garnish with crisp parsley 7,no4 #cah71 or fried bread crumbs 7,no4 #cbj71 or bread sauce 7,no4 #cba71 or gravy 7,no4 #cbi74 ,obs4--,when pigeons are fresh they have their full relish2 but it goes entirely off with a very little keeping2 nor is it in any way so well preserved as by roasting them3 when they are put into a pie they are generally baked to rags1 and taste more of pepper and salt than of any thing else4 ,a little melted butter may be put into the dish with them1 and the gravy that runs from them will mix with it into fine sauce4 ,pigeons are in the greatest perfection from midsummer to ,michaelmas2 there is then the most plentiful and best food for them2 and their finest growth is just when they are full feathered4 ,when they are in the pen-feathers1 they are flabby2 when they are full grown1 and have flown some time1 they are tough4 ,game and poultry are best when they have just done growing1 i4 e4 as soon as nature has perfected her work4 ,this was the secret of ,solomon1 the famous pigeon-feeder of ,turnham ,green1 who is celebrated by the poet ,gay1 when he says1 ,that ,turnham ,green1 which dainty pigeons fed1 ,but feeds no more1 for ,solomon is dead4 ,larks and other small ,birds4--7,no4 #hj47 ,these delicate little birds are in high season in ,november4 ,when they are picked1 gutted1 and cleaned1 truss them2 brush them with the yelk of an egg1 and then roll them in bread-crumbs3 spit them on a lark-spit1 and tie that on to a larger spit2 ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire will do them enough2 baste them with fresh butter while they are roasting1 and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs till they are well covered with them4 ,for the sauce1 fry some grated bread in clarified butter1 see ,no4 #bei1 and set it to drain before the fire1 that it may harden3 serve the crumbs under the larks when you dish them1 and garnish them with slices of lemon4 ,wheatears1--7,no4 #ha47 ,are dressed in the same way as larks4 ,lobster4--7,no4 #hb47 ,see receipt for boiling 7,no4 #agf74 ,we give no receipt for roasting lobster1 tongue1 c4 being of opinion with ,dr4 ,king1 who says1 ,by roasting that which our forefathers boiled1 ,and boiling what they roasted1 much is spoiled4 ,,footnotes3 #abb-99 ,this joint is said to owe its name to king ,charles the ,second1 who1 dining upon a loin of beef1 and being particularly pleased with it1 asked the name of the joint2 said for its merit it should be knighted1 and henceforth called ,sir-,loin4 #abc-99 ,in the present fashion of ,,fattening ,,cattle1 it is more desirable to roast away the fat than to preserve it4 ,if the honourable societies of agriculturists1 at the time they consulted a learned professor about the composition of manures1 had consulted some competent authority on the nature of animal substances1 the public might have escaped the overgrown corpulency of the animal flesh1 which every where fills the markets4--,domestic ,management1 #abmo4 #ahac1 p4 #ahb4 ,game1 and other wild animals proper for food1 are of very superior qualities to the tame1 from the total contrast of the circumstances attending them4 ,they have a free range of exercise in the open air1 and choose their own food1 the good effects of which are very evident in a short1 delicate texture of flesh1 found only in them4 ,their juices and flavour are more pure1 and their fat1 when it is in any degree1 as in venison1 and some other instances1 differs as much from that of our fatted animals1 as silver and gold from the grosser metals4 ,the superiority of ,,welch ,,mutton and ,,scotch ,,beef is owing to a similar cause4--,ibid41 p4 #aej4 ,if there is more ,,fat than you think will be eaten with the meat2 cut it off2 it will make an excellent ,,pudding 7,no4 #eed72 or clarify it1 7,no4 #hd7 and use it for frying3 for those who like their meat done thoroughly1 and use a moderate fire for roasting1 the fat need not be covered with paper4 ,if your beef is large1 and your family small1 cut off the thin end and salt it1 and cut out and dress the fillet 7i4 e4 commonly called the inside7 next day as ,,mock ,,hare 7,no4 #ff9973 thus you get three good hot dinners4 ,see also ,no4 #dhc1 on made dishes4 ,for ,,sauce for cold beef1 see ,no4 #cei1 cucumber vinegar1 ,no4 #cii1 and horseradish vinegar1 ,nos4 #cii99 and #deh4 #abc- ,this joint is often spoiled for the next day's use1 by an injudicious mode of carving4 ,if you object to the outside1 take the brown off1 and help the next3 by the cutting it only on one side1 you preserve the gravy in the meat1 and the goodly appearance also2 by cutting it1 on the contrary1 down the middle of this joint1 all the gravy runs out1 it becomes dry1 and exhibits a most unseemly aspect when brought to table a second time4--,from ,,ude',s ,cookery1 #hvo4 #ahah1 p4 #aji4 #abd-99 ,,dean ,,swift',s receipt to roast mutton4 ,to ,,geminiani',s beautiful air--,gently touch the warbling lyre4 ,gently stir and blow the fire1 ,lay the mutton down to roast1 ,dress it quickly1 ,i desire1 ,in the dripping put a toast1 ,that ,i hunger may remove2-- ,mutton is the meat ,i love4 ,on the dresser see it lie2 ,oh6 the charming white and red6 ,finer meat ne'er met the eye1 ,on the sweetest grass it fed2 ,let the jack go swiftly round1 ,let me have it nicely brown'd4 ,on the table spread the cloth1 ,let the knives be sharp and clean1 ,pickles get and salad both1 ,let them each be fresh and green4 ,with small beer1 good ale1 and wine1 ,o1 ye gods6 how ,i shall dine6 #abd- ,see the chapter of ,,advice ,,to ,,cooks4 #abe-99 ,common cooks very seldom brown the ends of necks and loins2 to have this done nicely1 let the fire be a few inches longer at each end than the joint that is roasting1 and occasionally place the spit slanting1 so that each end may get sufficient fire2 otherwise1 after the meat is done1 you must take it up1 and put the ends before the fire4 #abg-99 ,to ,,mince or ,,hash ,,veal see ,no4 #eaa1 or #eaa991 and to make a ,,ragout of cold veal1 ,no4 #eab4 #aca-99 ,priscilla ,haslehurst1 in her ,housekeeper's ,instructor1 #hvo4 ,sheffield1 #ahai1 p4 #ai1 gives us a receipt to goosify a shoulder of lamb4 ,un grand ,cuisinier1 informed me that to lambify the leg of a porkling is a favourite metamorphosis in the ,french kitchen1 when house lamb is very dear4 #acc-99 ,,mons4 ,,grimod designates this ,animal modeste1 ennemi du faste1 et le roi des animaux immondes4 ,maitland1 in p4 #geh1 of vol4 ii4 of his ,history of ,london1 reckons that the number of sucking-pigs consumed in the city of ,london in the year #agbe1 amounted to #eb1jjj4 #acc- ,some delicately sensitive palates desire the cook to parboil the sage and onions 7before they are cut71 to soften and take off the rawness of their flavour2 the older and drier the onion1 the stronger will be its flavour2 and the learned ,,evelyn orders these to be edulcorated by gentle maceration4 #acc- ,an ancient culinary sage says1 ,when you see a pig's eyes drop out1 you may be satisfied he has had enough of the fire6 ,this is no criterion that the body of the pig is done enough1 but arises merely from the briskness of the fire before the head of it4 #acg-99 ,if you think the flavour of raw onions too strong1 cut them in slices1 and lay them in cold water for a couple of hours1 or add as much apple or potato as you have of onion4 #acg- ,although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nerves of the good folks of ,great ,britain1 the livers of poultry are considered a very high relish by our continental neighbours2 and the following directions how to procure them in perfection1 we copy from the recipe of un ,vieil ,amateur de ,bonne ,chre4 ,the liver of a duck1 or a goose1 which has submitted to the rules and orders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of his sebaceous glands1 is a superlative exquisite to the palate of a ,parisian epicure2 but1 alas6 the poor goose1 to produce this darling dainty1 must endure sad torments4 ,he must be crammed with meat1 deprived of drink1 and kept constantly before a hot fire3 a miserable martyrdom indeed6 and would be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences of his sufferings did not afford him some consolation2 but the glorious prospect of the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage and support2 and when he thinks how speedily it will become almost as big as his body1 how high it will rank on the list of double relishes1 and with what ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers des ,foies gras1 he submits to his destiny without a sigh4 ,the famous ,strasburg pies are made with livers thus prepared1 and sell for an enormous price4 ,however incredible this ordonnance for the obesitation of a goose's liver may appear at first sight1 will it not seem equally so to after-ages1 that in this enlightened country1 in #ahba1 we encouraged a folly as much greater1 as its operation was more universal8 ,will it be believed1 that it was then considered the acme of perfection in beef and mutton1 that it should be so over-fattened1 that a poor man1 to obtain one pound of meat that he could eat1 must purchase another which he could not1 unless converted into a suet pudding3 moreover1 that the highest premiums were annually awarded to those who produced sheep and oxen in the most extreme stale of morbid obesity866 ----expensive plans ,for deluging of dripping-pans4 #ada-99 ,this1 in culinary technicals1 is called casing it upon the same principle that eating1 drinking1 and sleeping1 are termed non-naturals4 #ada- ,mrs4 ,charlotte ,mason1 in her ,complete ,system of ,cookery1 page #bhc1 says1 she has tried all the different things recommended to baste a hare with1 and never found any thing so good as small beer2 others order milk2 drippings we believe is better than any thing4 ,to roast a hare nicely1 so as to preserve the meat on the back1 c4 juicy and nutritive1 requires as much attention as a sucking-pig4 ,instead of washing1 a grand ,cuisinier says1 it is much better to wipe a hare with a thin1 dry cloth1 as so much washing1 or indeed washing at all1 takes away the flavour4 #adb-99 ,liver sauce1 ,nos4 #bhg and #bhh4 #adb- ,they are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from the bill1 which is commonly about #f or #g days after they have been killed1 otherwise it will have no more savour than a common fowl4--,ude's ,cookery1 #hvo4 #ahai1 page #baf4 ,gastronomers1 who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in game1 properly kept1 had better abstain from this bird1 since it is worse than a common fowl1 if not waited for till it acquires the fumet it ought to have4 ,whole republics of maggots have often been found rioting under the wings of pheasants2 but being radically dispersed1 and the birds properly washed with vinegar1 every thing went right1 and every guest1 unconscious of the culinary ablutions1 enjoyed the excellent flavour of the ,phasian birds4--,tabella ,cibaria1 p4 #ee4 #add-99 ,this bird has so insinuated itself into the favour of refined gourmands1 that they pay it the same honours as the grand ,lama1 making a ragot of its excrements1 and devouring them with ecstasy4--,vide ,almanach des ,gourmands1 vol4 i4 p4 #ef4 ,that exercise produces strength and firmness of fibre is excellently well exemplified in the woodcock and the partridge4 ,the former flies most--the latter walks2 the wing of the woodcock is always very tough1--of the partridge very tender hence the old doggerel distich1-- ,if the partridge had but the woodcock's thigh1 ,he'd be the best bird that e'er doth fly4 ,the breast of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part4 ,,frying4 ,to clarify ,drippings4--7,no4 #hc47 ,,put your dripping into a clean sauce-pan over a stove or slow fire2 when it is just going to boil1 skim it well1 let it boil1 and then let it stand till it is a little cooled2 then pour it through a sieve into a pan4 ,obs4--,well-cleansed drippings1#adg-99 and the fat skimmings#adg- of the broth-pot1 when fresh and sweet1 will baste every thing as well as butter1 except game and poultry1 and should supply the place of butter for common fries1 c42 for which they are equal to lard1 especially if you repeat the clarifying twice over4 ,n4,b4 ,if you keep it in a cool place1 you may preserve it a fortnight in summer1 and longer in winter4 ,when you have done frying1 let the dripping stand a few minutes to settle1 and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin or stone pan1 and it will do a second and a third time as well as it did the first2 only the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for any other purpose4 ,to clarify ,suet to fry with4--7,no4 #hd47 ,cut beef or mutton suet into thin slices1 pick out all the veins and skins1 c41 put it into a thick and well-tinned sauce-pan1 and set it over a very slow stove1 or in an oven1 till it is melted2 you must not hurry it2 if not done very slowly it will acquire a burnt taste1 which you cannot get rid of2 then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean brown pan3 when quite cold1 tie a paper over it1 and keep it for use4 ,hog's lard is prepared in the same way4 ,obs4--,the waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion of over-feeding cattle till the fat is nearly equal to the lean1 may1 by good management1 be in some measure prevented1 by cutting off the superfluous part1 and preparing it as above1 or by making it into puddings2 see ,nos4 #eea and #eed1 or soup1 ,no4 #bbi4 ,steaks4--7,no4 #he47 ,cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling4 ,put some butter1 or ,no4 #hc1 into an iron frying-pan1 and when it is hot1 lay in the steaks1 and keep turning them till they are done enough4 ,for sauce1 see ,no4 #cef1 and for the accompaniments1 ,no4 #id4 ,obs4 ,unless the fire be prepared on purpose1 we like this way of cooking them2 the gravy is preserved1 and the meat is more equally dressed1 and more evenly browned2 which makes it more relishing1 and invites the eye to encourage the appetite4 ,beef-steaks and ,onions4--7,no4 #hf4 ,see also ,no4 #eja47 ,fry the steaks according to the directions given in the preceding receipt2 and have ready for them some onions prepared as directed in ,no4 #bii4 ,for stewed rump-steaks1 see ,nos4 #ejj and #eja4 ,sausages1--7,no4 #hg47 ,are best when quite fresh made4 ,put a bit of butter1 or dripping 7,no4 #hc71 into a clean frying-pan2 as soon as it is melted 7before it gets hot7 put in the sausages1 and shake the pan for a minute1 and keep turning them 7be careful not to break or prick them in so doing72 fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides2 when they are done1 lay them on a hair-sieve1 placed before the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them4 ,the secret of frying sausages is1 to let them get hot very gradually2 they then will not burst1 if they are not stale4 ,the common practice to prevent their bursting1 is to prick them with a fork2 but this lets the gravy out4 ,you may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh butter1 and lightly dredge them with flour1 and put them in a cheese-toaster or ,dutch oven for a minute4 ,some over-economical cooks insist that no butter or lard1 c4 is required1 their own fat being sufficient to fry them3 we have tried it2 the sausages were partially scorched1 and had that piebald appearance that all fried things have when sufficient fat is not allowed4 ,obs4 ,poached eggs 7,no4 #edh71 pease-pudding 7,no4 #eee71 and mashed potatoes 7,no4 #ajf7 are agreeable accompaniments to sausages2 and sausages are as welcome with boiled or roasted poultry or veal1 or boiled tripe 7,no4 #ah72 so are ready-dressed ,german sausages 7see ,mem4 to ,no4 #ac72 and a convenient1 easily digestible1 and invigorating food for the aged1 and those whose teeth are defective2 as is also ,no4 #ejc4 ,for sauce ,no4 #cef2 to make mustard1 ,nos4 #cfi and #cgj4 ,n4,b4 ,sausages1 when finely chopped1 are a delicate bonne bouche2 and require very little assistance from the teeth to render them quite ready for the stomach4 ,sweetbreads full-dressed4--7,no4 #hh47 ,parboil them1 and let them get cold2 then cut them in pieces1 about three-quarters of an inch thick2 dip them in the yelk of an egg1 then in fine bread-crumbs 7some add spice1 lemon-peel1 and sweet herbs72 put some clean dripping 7,no4 #hc7 into a frying-pan3 when it boils1 put in the sweetbreads1 and fry them a fine brown4 ,for garnish1 crisp parsley2 and for sauce1 mushroom catchup and melted butter1 or anchovy sauce1 or ,nos4 #cef1 #cdc1 or #cdc991 or bacon or ham1 as ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg4 ,sweetbreads plain4--7,no4 #hi47 ,parboil and slice them as before1 dry them on a clean cloth1 flour them1 and fry them a delicate brown2 take care to drain the fat well from them1 and garnish them with slices of lemon1 and sprigs of chervil or parsley1 or crisp parsley 7,no4 #cah74 ,for sauce1 ,no4 #cef1 or ,no4 #cjg1 and slices of ham or bacon1 as ,no4 #ebf1 or ,no4 #ebg1 or forcemeat balls made as ,nos4 #cge and #cgh4 99499 ,take care to have a fresh sweetbread2 it spoils sooner than almost any thing1 therefore should be parboiled as soon as it comes in4 ,this is called blanching1 or setting it2 mutton kidneys 7,no4 #ie7 are sometimes broiled and sent up with sweetbreads4 ,veal ,cutlets4--7,no4 #ij and ,no4 #eba47 ,let your cutlets be about half an inch thick2 trim them1 and flatten them with a cleaver2 you may fry them in fresh butter1 or good drippings 7,no4 #hc72 when brown on one side1 turn them and do the other2 if the fire is very fierce1 they must change sides oftener4 ,the time they will take depends on the thickness of the cutlet and the heat of the fire2 half an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes4 ,make some gravy1 by putting the trimmings into a stew-pan with a little soft water1 an onion1 a roll of lemon-peel1 a blade of mace1 a sprig of thyme and parsley1 and a bay leaf2 stew over a slow fire an hour1 then strain it2 put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan2 as soon as it is melted1 mix with it as much flour as will dry it up1 stir it over the fire for a few minutes1 then add the gravy by degrees till it is all mixed1 boil it for five minutes1 and strain it through a tamis sieve1 and put it to the cutlets2 you may add some browning 7,no4 #cbb71 mushroom 7,no4 #dci71 or walnut catchup1 or lemon pickle1 c43 see also sauces1 ,nos4 #cdc and #cdh4 ,or1 ,cut the veal into pieces about as big as a crown-piece1 beat them with a cleaver1 dip them in eggs beat up with a little salt1 and then in fine bread-crumbs2 fry them a light brown in boiling lard2 serve under them some good gravy or mushroom sauce 7,no4 #cjg71 which may be made in five minutes4 ,garnish with slices of ham or rashers of bacon 7,nos4 #ebf and #ebg71 or pork sausages 7,no4 #hg74 ,obs4 ,veal forcemeat or stuffing 7,nos4 #cgd1 #cge1 and #cgh71 pork sausages 7,no4 #hg71 rashers of bacon 7,nos4 #ebf and #ebg71 are very relishing accompaniments1 fried and sent up in the form of balls or cakes1 and laid round as a garnish4 ,lamb1 or ,mutton ,chops1--7,no4 #ib47 ,are dressed in the same way1 and garnished with crisp parsley 7,no4 #cah7 and slices of lemon4 ,if they are bread-crumbed and covered with buttered writing-paper1 and then broiled1 they are called maintenon cutlets4 ,pork ,chops4--7,no4 #ic47 ,cut the chops about half an inch thick2 trim them neatly 7few cooks have any idea how much credit they get by this72 put a frying-pan on the fire1 with a bit of butter2 as soon as it is hot1 put in your chops1 turning them often till brown all over1 they will be done enough in about fifteen minutes2 take one upon a plate and try it2 if done1 season it with a little finely-minced onion1 powdered sage1 and pepper and salt4 ,for gravy and sauce1 see ,nos4 #cjj1 #cjd1 #cda1 and #cef4 ,obs4 ,a little powdered sage1 c4 strewed over them1 will give them a nice relish1 or the savoury powder in ,no4 #ea1 or forcemeat sausages like ,no4 #cgh4 ,do not have them cut too thick1 about three chops to an inch and a quarter2 trim them neatly1 beat them flat1 have ready some sweet herbs1 or sage and onion chopped fine1 put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter about as big as a walnut1 let them have one fry1 beat two eggs on a plate with a little salt1 add to them the herbs1 mix it all well together1 dip the chops in one at a time all over1 and then with bread-crumbs fry them in hot lard or drippings till they are a light brown4 ,obs4 ,veal1 lamb1 or mutton chops1 are very good dressed in like manner4 ,to fry fish1 see ,no4 #ade4 ,n4,b4 ,to fry eggs and omelets1 and other things1 see ,no4 #ede1 and the ,index4 ,,footnotes3 #adg-99 ,,mrs4 ,,melroe1 in her ,economical ,cookery1 page #g1 tells us1 she has ascertained from actual experiments1 that the drippings of roast meat1 combined with wheat flour1 oatmeal1 barley1 pease1 or potato-starch1 will make delicious soup1 agreeable and savoury to the palate1 and nutritive and serviceable to the stomach2 and that while a joint is roasting1 good soup may be made from the drippings of the ,,fat1 which is the essence of meat1 as seeds are of vegetables1 and impregnates ,,soup with the identical taste of meat4 ,writers on cookery give strict directions to carefully skim off the fat1 and in the next sentence order butter 7a much more expensive article7 to be added3 instead of this1 when any fat appears at the top of your soup or stew1 do not skim it off1 but unite it with the broth by means of the vegetable mucilages1 flour1 oatmeal1 ground barley1 or potato-starch2 when suspended the soup is equally agreeable to the palate nutritive to the stomach1 c4 ,cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make gravies2 they stew and boil lean meat for hours1 and1 after all1 their cookery tastes more of pepper and salt than any thing else4 ,if they would add the bulk of a chesnut of solid fat to a common-sized sauce-boatful of gravy1 it will give it more sapidity than twenty hours' stewing lean meat would1 unless a larger quantity was used than is warranted by the rules of frugality4 ,see ,nos4 #bje and #bbi4 ,the experiments of ,dr4 ,stark on the nourishing powers of different substances1 go very far to prove that three ounces of the fat of boiled beef are equal to a pound of the lean4 ,dr4 ,pages1 the traveller1 confirms this opinion3 ',being obliged1' says he1 'during the journey from ,north to ,south ,america by land1 to live solely on animal food1 ,i experienced the truth of what is observed by hunters1 who live solely on animal food1 viz4 that besides their receiving little nourishment from the leaner parts of it1 it soon becomes offensive to the taste2 whereas the fat is both more nutritive1 and continues to be agreeable to the palate4 ,to many stomachs fat is unpleasant and indigestible1 especially when converted into oil by heat2 this may be easily prevented1 by the simple process of combining the fat completely with water1 by the intervention of vegetable mucilage1 as in melting butter1 by means of flour1 the butter and water are united into a homogeneous fluid4'--,from ,practical ,economy1 by a ,physician4 ,callow1 #ahja4 #adg- ,see note at the foot of ,no4 #bja4 ,,broiling4 ,chops or ,steaks4#aea-99--7,no4 #id47 ,to stew them1 see ,no4 #ejj1 ditto with onions1 ,no4 #eja4 ,those who are nice about steaks1 never attempt to have them1 except in weather which permits the meat to be hung till it is tender1 and give the butcher some days' notice of their wish for them4 ,if1 friendly reader1 you wish to entertain your mouth with a superlative beef-steak1 you must have the inside of the sirloin cut into steaks4 ,the next best steaks are those cut from the middle of a rump1 that has been killed at least four days in moderate weather1 and much longer in cold weather1 when they can be cut about six inches long1 four inches wide1 and half an inch thick3 do not beat them1 which vulgar trick breaks the cells in which the gravy of the meat is contained1 and it becomes dry and tasteless4 ,n4,b4 ,if your butcher sends steaks which are not tender1 we do not insist that you should object to let him be beaten4 ,desire the butcher to cut them of even thickness2 if he does not1 divide the thicker from the thinner pieces1 and give them time accordingly4 ,take care to have a very clear1 brisk fire2 throw a little salt on it2 make the gridiron hot1 and set it slanting1 to prevent the fat from dropping into the fire1 and making a smoke4 ,it requires more practice and care than is generally supposed to do steaks to a nicety2 and for want of these little attentions1 this very common dish1 which every body is supposed capable of dressing1 seldom comes to table in perfection4 ,ask those you cook for1 if they like it under1 or thoroughly done2 and what accompaniments they like best2 it is usual to put a table-spoonful of catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or a little minced eschalot1 or ,no4 #djb1 into a dish before the fire2 while you are broiling1 turn the steak1 c4 with a pair of steak-tongs1 it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes2 rub a bit of butter over it1 and send it up garnished with pickles and finely-scraped horse-radish4 ,nos4 #ace1 #bgh1 #bii1 #bee1 #djb1 #dbc1 #dci1 and #cef1 are the sauces usually composed for chops and steaks4 ,n4,b4 ,macbeth's receipt for beef-steaks is the best-- ----when 't is done1 't were well ,if 't were done quickly4 ,obs4 ,le vritable ,,bifteck1 comme il se fait en ,angleterre1 as ,mons4 ,beauvilliers calls 7in his l',art du ,cuisinier1 tom4 i4 #hvo4 ,paris1 #ahad1 p4 #abb7 what he says we call romesteck1 is as highly esteemed by our ,french neighbours1 as their ragots are by our countrymen1 who ----post to ,paris go1 ,merely to taste their soups1 and mushrooms know4 ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery1 p4 #gi4 ,these lines were written before the establishment of ,albion house1 ,aldersgate ,street1 where every luxury that nature and art produce is served of the primest quality1 and in the most scientific manner1 in a style of princely magnificence and perfect comfort3 the wines1 liqueurs1 c4 are superlative1 and every department of the business of the banquet is conducted in the most liberal manner4 ,the ,french author whom we have before so often quoted1 assures les amateurs de bonne chre on the other side of the water1 it is well worth their while to cross the channel to taste this favourite ,english dish1 which1 when mortifie son point and well dressed1 he says1 is superior to most of the subtle double relishes of the ,parisian kitchen4 ,almanach des ,gourmands1 vol4 i4 p4 #bg4 ,beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal food1 and is entitled to the same rank among solid1 that brandy is among liquid stimuli4 ,the celebrated ,,trainer1 ,sir ,thomas ,parkyns1 of ,bunny ,park1 ,bart41 in his book on ,wrestling1 #dto4 #c;d edit4 #agbg1 p4 #aj1 c41 greatly prefers beef-eaters to sheep-biters1 as he called those who ate mutton4 ,when ,humphries the pugilist was trained by ,ripsham1 the keeper of ,ipswich jail1 he was at first fed on beef1 but got so much flesh1 it was changed for mutton1 roasted or broiled3 when broiled1 great part of the nutritive juices of the meat is extracted4 ,the principles upon which training#aec-99 is conducted1 resolve themselves into temperance without abstemiousness1 and exercise without fatigue4 ,kidneys4--7,no4 #ie47 ,cut them through the long way1 score them1 sprinkle a little pepper and salt on them1 and run a wire skewer through them to keep them from curling on the gridiron1 so that they may be evenly broiled4 ,broil them over a very clear fire1 turning them often till they are done2 they will take about ten or twelve minutes1 if the fire is brisk3 or fry them in butter1 and make gravy for them in the pan 7after you have taken out the kidneys71 by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour2 as soon as it looks brown1 put in as much water as will make gravy2 they will take five minutes more to fry than to broil4 ,for sauce1 ,nos4 #cah1 #cee1 and #cef4 ,obs4 ,some cooks chop a few parsley-leaves very fine1 and mix them with a bit of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt1 and put a little of this mixture on each kidney4 ,a ,fowl or ,rabbit1 c4--7,no4 #ig47 ,we can only recommend this method of dressing when the fire is not good enough for roasting4 ,pick and truss it the same as for boiling1 cut it open down the back1 wipe the inside clean with a cloth1 season it with a little pepper and salt1 have a clear fire1 and set the gridiron at a good distance over it1 lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire 7you may egg it and strew some grated bread over it71 and broil it till it is a fine brown3 take care the fleshy side is not burned4 ,lay it on a hot dish2 pickled mushrooms1 or mushroom sauce 7,no4 #cje71 thrown over it1 or parsley and butter 7,no4 #bfa71 or melted butter flavoured with mushroom catchup 7,no4 #cjg74 ,garnish it with slices of lemon2 and the liver and gizzard slit and notched1 seasoned with pepper and salt1 and broiled nicely brown1 with some slices of lemon4 ,for grill sauce1 see ,no4 #cee4 ,n4,b4 ,it was a great mode1 and taken up by the court party in ,oliver ,cromwell's time1 to roast half capons1 pretending they had a more exquisite taste and nutriment than when dressed whole4 ,see ,,joan ,,cromwell',s ,kitchen1 ,london1 #affd1 page #ci4 ,pigeons1--7,no4 #ih47 ,to be worth the trouble of picking1 must be well grown1 and well fed4 ,clean them well1 and pepper and salt them2 broil them over a clear1 slow fire2 turn them often1 and put a little butter on them3 when they are done1 pour over them1 either stewed 7,no4 #cje7 or pickled mushrooms1 or catchup and melted butter 7,no4 #cjg1 or ,no4 #cdh or #cee74 ,garnish with fried bread-crumbs or sippets 7,no4 #cai73 or1 when the pigeons are trussed as for boiling1 flat them with a cleaver1 taking care not to break the skin of the backs or breasts4 ,season them with pepper and salt1 a little bit of butter1 and a tea-spoonful of water1 and tie them close at both ends2 so that when they are brought to table1 they bring their sauce with them4 ,egg and dredge them well with grated bread 7mixed with spice and sweet herbs1 if you please72 then lay them on the gridiron1 and turn them frequently3 if your fire is not very clear1 lay them on a sheet of paper well buttered1 to keep them from getting smoked4 ,they are much better broiled whole4 ,the same sauce as in the preceding receipt1 or ,no4 #cdc or #cdh4 ,,veal ,,cutlets 7,no4 #eba and ,no4 #ij74 ,,pork ,,chops 7,no4 #ic74 ,,footnotes3 #aea-99 ,the season for these is from the #bith of ,september to the #beth of ,march2 to ensure their being tender when out of season1 ,,stew ,,them as in receipt ,no4 #ejj4 ,,to ,,warm ,,up ,,cold ,,rump-,,steaks4 ,lay them in a stew-pan1 with one large onion cut in quarters1 six berries of allspice1 the same of black pepper1 cover the steaks with boiling water1 let them stew gently one hour1 thicken the liquor with flour and butter rubbed together on a plate2 if a pint of gravy1 about one ounce of flour1 and the like weight of butter1 will do2 put it into the stew-pan1 shake it well over the fire for five minutes1 and it is ready2 lay the steaks and onions on a dish and pour the gravy through a sieve over them4 #aec-99 ,see ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,invigorating ,,and ,,prolonging ,,life1 by the editor of ,,the ,,cook',s ,,oracle4 ,published by ,g4 ,b4 ,whittaker1 ,no4 #ac1 ,ave-,maria ,lane4 ,,vegetables4 ,sixteen ,ways of dressing ,potatoes4#aee-99--7,no4 #ajb47 ,the vegetable kingdom affords no food more wholesome1 more easily procured1 easily prepared1 or less expensive1 than the potato3 yet1 although this most useful vegetable is dressed almost every day1 in almost every family1 for one plate of potatoes that comes to table as it should1 ten are spoiled4 ,be careful in your choice of potatoes3 no vegetable varies so much in colour1 size1 shape1 consistence1 and flavour4 ,the reddish-coloured are better than the white1 but the yellowish-looking ones are the best4 ,choose those of a moderate size1 free from blemishes1 and fresh1 and buy them in the mould4 ,they must not be wetted till they are cleaned to be cooked4 ,protect them from the air and frost1 by laying them in heaps in a cellar1 covering them with mats1 or burying them in sand or in earth4 ,the action of frost is most destructive3 if it be considerable1 the life of the vegetable is destroyed1 and the potato speedily rots4 ,wash them1 but do not pare or cut them1 unless they are very large4 ,fill a sauce-pan half full of potatoes of equal size#aee- 7or make them so by dividing the larger ones71 put to them as much cold water as will cover them about an inch3 they are sooner boiled1 and more savoury1 than when drowned in water4 ,most boiled things are spoiled by having too little water1 but potatoes are often spoiled by too much3 they must merely be covered1 and a little allowed for waste in boiling1 so that they may be just covered at the finish4 ,set them on a moderate fire till they boil2 then take them off1 and put them by the side of the fire to simmer slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork 7place no dependence on the usual test of their skins' cracking1 which1 if they are boiled fast1 will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done1 and the insides quite hard74 ,then pour the water off 7if you let the potatoes remain in the water a moment after they are done enough1 they will become waxy and watery71 uncover the sauce-pan1 and set it at such a distance from the fire as will secure it from burning2 their superfluous moisture will evaporate1 and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy4 ,you may afterward place a napkin1 folded up to the size of the sauce-pan's diameter1 over the potatoes1 to keep them hot and mealy till wanted4 ,obs4--,this method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming them2 and they are dressed in half the time4 ,there is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes1 that it is impossible to say how long they will take doing3 the best way is to try them with a fork4 ,moderate-sized potatoes will generally be done enough in fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #ajf4 ,cold ,potatoes fried4--7,no4 #ajb9947 ,put a bit of clean dripping into a frying-pan3 when it is melted1 slice in your potatoes with a little pepper and salt2 put them on the fire2 keep stirring them3 when they are quite hot1 they are ready4 ,obs4--,this is a very good way of re-dressing potatoes1 or see ,no4 #ajf4 ,potatoes boiled and broiled4--7,no4 #ajc47 ,dress your potatoes as before directed1 and put them on a gridiron over a very clear and brisk fire3 turn them till they are brown all over1 and send them up dry1 with melted butter in a cup4 ,potatoes fried in ,slices or ,shavings4--7,no4 #ajd47 ,peel large potatoes2 slice them about a quarter of an inch thick1 or cut them in shavings round and round1 as you would peel a lemon2 dry them well in a clean cloth1 and fry them in lard or dripping4 ,take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite clean2 put it on a quick fire1 watch it1 and as soon as the lard boils1 and is still1 put in the slices of potato1 and keep moving them till they are crisp4 ,take them up1 and lay them to drain on a sieve3 send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over them4 ,potatoes fried whole4--7,no4 #aje47 ,when nearly boiled enough1 as directed in ,no4 #ajb1 put them into a stew-pan with a bit of butter1 or some nice clean beef-drippings2 shake them about often 7for fear of burning them71 till they are brown and crisp2 drain them from the fat4 ,obs4--,it will be an elegant improvement to the last three receipts1 previous to frying or broiling the potatoes1 to flour them and dip them in the yelk of an egg1 and then roll them in fine-sifted bread-crumbs2 they will then deserve to be called ,,potatoes ,,full ,,dressed4 ,potatoes mashed4--7,no4 #ajf4 ,see also ,no4 #aab47 ,when your potatoes are thoroughly boiled1 drain them quite dry1 pick out every speck1 c41 and while hot1 rub them through a colander into a clean stew-pan4 ,to a pound of potatoes put about half an ounce of butter1 and a table-spoonful of milk3 do not make them too moist2 mix them well together4 ,obs4--,after ,lady-day1 when the potatoes are getting old and specky1 and in frosty weather1 this is the best way of dressing them4 ,you may put them into shapes or small tea-cups2 egg them with yelk of egg1 and brown them very slightly before a slow fire4 ,see ,no4 #ajh4 ,potatoes mashed with ,onions4--7,no4 #ajg47 ,prepare some boiled onions by putting them through a sieve1 and mix them with potatoes4 ,in proportioning the onions to the potatoes1 you will be guided by your wish to have more or less of their flavour4 ,obs4--,see note under ,no4 #eee4 ,potatoes escalloped4--7,no4 #ajh47 ,mash potatoes as directed in ,no4 #ajf2 then butter some nice clean scollop-shells1 patty-pans1 or tea-cups or saucers2 put in your potatoes2 make them smooth at the top2 cross a knife over them2 strew a few fine bread-crumbs on them2 sprinkle them with a paste-brush with a few drops of melted butter1 and then set them in a ,dutch oven2 when they are browned on the top1 take them carefully out of the shells and brown the other side4 ,colcannon4--7,no4 #ajh9947 ,boil potatoes and greens1 or spinage1 separately2 mash the potatoes2 squeeze the greens dry2 chop them quite fine1 and mix them with the potatoes1 with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt2 put it into a mould1 buttering it well first2 let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes4 ,potatoes roasted4--7,no4 #aji47 ,wash and dry your potatoes 7all of a size71 and put them in a tin ,dutch oven1 or cheese-toaster3 take care not to put them too near the fire1 or they will get burned on the outside before they are warmed through4 ,large potatoes will require two hours to roast them4 ,n4,b4 ,to save time and trouble1 some cooks half boil them first4 ,this is one of the best opportunities the ,,baker has to rival the cook4 ,potatoes roasted under ,meat4--7,no4 #aaj47 ,half boil large potatoes1 drain the water from them1 and put them into an earthen dish1 or small tin pan1 under meat that is roasting1 and baste them with some of the dripping3 when they are browned on one side1 turn them and brown the other2 send them up round the meat1 or in a small dish4 ,potato ,balls4--7,no4 #aaa47 ,mix mashed potatoes with the yelk of an egg2 roll them into balls2 flour them1 or egg and bread-crumb them2 and fry them in clean drippings1 or brown them in a ,dutch oven4 ,potato ,balls ,ragot1--7,no4 #aab47 ,are made by adding to a pound of potatoes a quarter of a pound of grated ham1 or some sweet herbs1 or chopped parsley1 an onion or eschalot1 salt1 pepper1 and a little grated nutmeg1 or other spice1 with the yelk of a couple of eggs3 they are then to be dressed as ,no4 #aaa4 ,obs4--,an agreeable vegetable relish1 and a good supper-dish4 ,potato ,snow4--7,no4 #aad47 ,the potatoes must be free from spots1 and the whitest you can pick out2 put them on in cold water2 when they begin to crack strain the water from them1 and put them into a clean stew-pan by the side of the fire till they are quite dry1 and fall to pieces2 rub them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in1 and do not disturb them afterward4 ,potato ,pie4--7,no4 #aae47 ,peel and slice your potatoes very thin into a pie-dish2 between each layer of potatoes put a little chopped onion 7three-quarters of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound of potatoes72 between each layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt2 put in a little water1 and cut about two ounces of fresh butter into little bits1 and lay them on the top3 cover it close with puff paste4 ,it will take about an hour and a half to bake it4 ,n4,b4 ,the yelks of four eggs 7boiled hard7 may be added2 and when baked1 a table-spoonful of good mushroom catchup poured in through a funnel4 ,obs4--,cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls1 and button onions1 seasoned with curry powder1 c4 make a favourite vegetable pie4 ,new ,potatoes4--7,no4 #aaf47 ,the best way to clean new potatoes is to rub them with a coarse cloth or flannel1 a or scrubbing-brush1 and proceed as in ,no4 #ajb4 ,n4,b4 ,new potatoes are poor1 watery1 and insipid1 till they are full two inches in diameter3 they are not worth the trouble of boiling before midsummer day4 ,obs4--,some cooks prepare sauces to pour over potatoes1 made with butter1 salt1 and pepper1 or gravy1 or melted butter and catchup2 or stew the potatoes in ale1 or water seasoned with pepper and salt2 or bake them with herrings or sprats1 mixed with layers of potatoes1 seasoned with pepper1 salt1 sweet herbs1 vinegar1 and water2 or cut mutton or beef into slices1 and lay them in a stew-pan1 and on them potatoes and spices1 then another layer of the meat alternately1 pouring in a little water1 covering it up very close1 and slewing slowly4 ,potato mucilage 7a good substitute for arrow-root71 ,no4 #ddh4aei-99 ,jerusalem ,artichokes1--7,no4 #aag47 ,are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just before directed for potatoes4 ,n4,b4 ,they should be covered with thick melted butter1 or a nice white or brown sauce4 ,cabbage4--7,no4 #aah47 ,pick cabbages very clean1 and wash them thoroughly2 then look them over carefully again2 quarter them if they are very large4 ,put them into a sauce-pan with plenty of boiling water2 if any scum rises1 take it off2 put a large spoonful of salt into the sauce-pan1 and boil them till the stalks feel tender4 ,a young cabbage will take about twenty minutes or half an hour2 when full grown1 near an hour3 see that they are well covered with water all the time1 and that no smoke or dirt arises from stirring the fire4 ,with careful management1 they will look as beautiful when dressed as they did when growing4 ,obs4--,some cooks say1 that it will much ameliorate the flavour of strong old cabbages to boil them in two waters2 i4 e4 when they are half done1 to take them out1 and put them directly into another sauce-pan of boiling water1 instead of continuing them in the water into which they were first put4 ,boiled ,cabbage fried4--7,no4 #aai47 ,see receipt for ,bubble and ,squeak4 ,savoys1--7,no4 #abj47 ,are boiled in the same manner2 quarter them when you send them to table4 ,sprouts and young ,greens4--7,no4 #aba47 ,the receipt we have written for cabbages will answer as well for sprouts1 only they will be boiled enough in fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,spinage4--7,no4 #abb47 ,spinage should be picked a leaf at a time1 and washed in three or four waters2 when perfectly clean1 lay it on a sieve or colander1 to drain the water from it4 ,put a sauce-pan on the fire three parts filled with water1 and large enough for the spinage to float in it2 put a small handful of salt in it2 let it boil2 skim it1 and then put in the spinage2 make it boil as quick as possible till quite tender1 pressing the spinage down frequently that it may be done equally2 it will be done enough in about ten minutes1 if boiled in plenty of water3 if the spinage is a little old1 give it a few minutes longer4 ,when done1 strain it on the back of a sieve2 squeeze it dry with a plate1 or between two trenchers2 chop it fine1 and put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter and a little salt3 a little cream is a great improvement1 or instead of either some rich gravy4 ,spread it in a dish1 and score it into squares of proper size to help at table4 ,obs4--,grated nutmeg1 or mace1 and a little lemon-juice1 is a favourite addition with some cooks1 and is added when you stir it up in the stew-pan with the butter garnished4 ,spinage is frequently served with poached eggs and fried bread4 ,asparagus4--7,no4 #abc47 ,set a stew-pan with plenty of water in it on the fire2 sprinkle a handful of salt in it2 let it boil1 and skim it2 then put in your asparagus1 prepared thus3 scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly clean2 throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them2 when they are all done1 tie them up in little bundles1 of about a quarter of a hundred each1 with bass1 if you can get it1 or tape 7string cuts them to pieces72 cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all of a length1 leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green part2 when they are tender at the stalk1 which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes1 they are done enough4 ,great care must be taken to watch the exact time of their becoming tender2 take them up just at that instant1 and they will have their true flavour and colour3 a minute or two more boiling destroys both4 ,while the asparagus is boiling1 toast a round of a quartern loaf1 about half an inch thick2 brown it delicately on both sides2 dip it lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in1 and lay it in the middle of a dish3 melt some butter 7,no4 #bef72 then lay in the asparagus upon the toast1 which must project beyond the asparagus1 that the company may see there is a toast4 ,pour no butter over them1 but send some up in a boat1 or white sauce 7,no4 #b of ,no4 #cfd74 ,sea ,kale1--7,no4 #abd47 ,is tied up in bundles1 and dressed in the same way as asparagus4 ,cauliflower4--7,no4 #abe47 ,choose those that are close and white1 and of the middle size2 trim off the outside leaves2 cut the stalk off flat at the bottom2 let them lie in salt and water an hour before you boil them4 ,put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in it2 skim it well1 and let it boil slowly till done1 which a small one will be in fifteen1 a large one in about twenty minutes2 take it up the moment it is enough1 a minute or two longer boiling will spoil it4 ,n4,b4 ,cold cauliflowers and ,french beans1 carrots and turnips1 boiled so as to eat rather crisp1 are sometimes dressed as a salad 7,no4 #cgb or #dec74 ,broccoli4--7,no4 #abf47 ,set a pan of clean cold water on the table1 and a saucepan on the fire with plenty of water1 and a handful of salt in it4 ,broccoli is prepared by stripping off all the side shoots1 leaving the top2 peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife2 cut it close off at the bottom1 and put it into the pan of cold water4 ,when the water in the stew-pan boils1 and the broccoli is ready1 put it in2 let it boil briskly till the stalks feel tender1 from ten to twenty minutes2 take it up with a slice1 that you may not break it2 let it drain1 and serve up4 ,if some of the heads of broccoli are much bigger than the others1 put them on to boil first1 so that they may get all done together4 ,obs4--,it makes a nice supper-dish served upon a toast1 like asparagus4 ,it is a very delicate vegetable1 and you must take it up the moment it is done1 and send it to table hot4 ,red ,beet-roots1--7,no4 #abg47 ,are not so much used as they deserve2 they are dressed in the same way as parsnips1 only neither scraped nor cut till after they are boiled2 they will take from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling1 according to their size3 to be sent to table with salt fish1 boiled beef1 c4 ,when young1 large1 and juicy1 it is a very good variety1 an excellent garnish1 and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant pickle4 ,parsnips1--7,no4 #abh47 ,are to be cooked just in the same manner as carrots4 ,they require more or less time according to their size2 therefore match them in size3 and you must try them by thrusting a fork into them as they are in the water2 when that goes easily through1 they are done enough4 ,boil them from an hour to two hours1 according to their size and freshness4 ,obs4 ,parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as turnips1 and some cooks quarter them before they boil them4#afc-99 ,carrots4--7,no4 #abi47 ,let them be well washed and brushed1 not scraped4 ,an hour is enough for young spring carrots2 grown carrots must be cut in half1 and will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a half4 ,when done1 rub off the peels with a clean coarse cloth1 and slice them in two or four1 according to their size4 ,the best way to try if they are done enough1 is to pierce them with a fork4 ,obs4 ,many people are fond of cold carrot with cold beef2 ask if you shall cook enough for some to be left to send up with the cold meat4 ,turnips4--7,no4 #acj47 ,peel off half an inch of the stringy outside4 ,full-grown turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling2 if you slice them1 which most people do1 they will be done sooner2 try them with a fork2 when tender1 take them up1 and lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly drained from them4 ,send them up whole2 do not slice them4 ,n4,b4 ,to very young turnips leave about two inches of the green top4 ,see ,no4 #acb4 ,to mash ,turnips4--7,no4 #aca47 ,when they are boiled quite tender1 squeeze them as dry as possible between two trenchers2 put them into a saucepan2 mash them with a wooden spoon1 and rub them through a colander2 add a little bit of butter2 keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with them1 and they are ready for table4 ,turnip-tops1--7,no4 #acb47 ,are the shoots which grow out 7in the spring7 of the old turnip-roots4 ,put them into cold water an hour before they are to be dressed2 the more water they are boiled in1 the better they will look2 if boiled in a small quantity of water they will taste bitter3 when the water boils1 put in a small handful of salt1 and then your vegetables2 if fresh and young1 they will be done in about twenty minutes2 drain them on the back of a sieve4 ,french ,beans4--7,no4 #acc47 ,cut off the stalk end first1 and then turn to the point and strip off the strings4 ,if not quite fresh1 have a bowl of spring-water1 with a little salt dissolved in it1 standing before you1 and as the beans are cleaned and stringed1 throw them in4 ,when all are done1 put them on the fire in boiling water1 with some salt in it2 after they have boiled fifteen or twenty minutes1 take one out and taste it2 as soon as they are tender take them up2 throw them into a colander or sieve to drain4 ,to send up the beans whole is much the best method when they are thus young1 and their delicate flavour and colour are much better preserved4 ,when a little more grown1 they must be cut across in two after stringing2 and for common tables they are split1 and divided across2 cut them all the same length2 but those who are nice never have them at such a growth as to require splitting4 ,when they are very large they look pretty cut into lozenges4 ,obs4 ,see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #abe4 ,green ,pease4#afd-99--7,no4 #acd47 ,young green pease1 well dressed1 are among the most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom4 ,they must be young2 it is equally indispensable that they be fresh gathered1 and cooked as soon as they are shelled for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness4 ,if you wish to feast upon pease in perfection1 you must have them gathered the same day they are dressed1 and put on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled4 ,pass them through a riddle1 i4 e4 a coarse sieve1 which is made for the purpose of separating them4 ,this precaution is necessary1 for large and small pease cannot be boiled together1 as the former will take more time than the latter4 ,for a peck of pease1 set on a sauce-pan with a gallon of water in it2 when it boils1 put in your pease1 with a table-spoonful of salt2 skim it well1 keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes1 according to their age and size4 ,the best way to judge of their being done enough1 and indeed the only way to make sure of cooking them to1 and not beyond1 the point of perfection1 or1 as pea-eaters say1 of boiling them to a bubble1 is to take them out with a spoon and taste them4 ,when they are done enough1 drain them on a hair-sieve4 ,if you like them buttered1 put them into a pie-dish1 divide some butter into small bits1 and lay them on the pease2 put another dish over them1 and turn them over and over2 this will melt the butter through them2 but as all people do not like buttered pease1 you had better send them to table plain1 as they come out of the sauce-pan1 with melted butter 7,no4 #bef7 in a sauce-tureen4 ,it is usual to boil some mint with the pease2 but if you wish to garnish the pease with mint1 boil a few sprigs in a sauce-pan by themselves4 ,see ,sage and ,onion ,sauce 7,no4 #cjj71 and ,pea ,powder 7,no4 #deh72 to boil ,bacon 7,no4 #ac71 ,slices of ,ham and ,bacon 7,no4 #ebf71 and ,relishing ,rashers of ,bacon 7,no4 #ebg74 ,n4,b4 ,a peck of young pease will not yield more than enough for a couple of hearty pea-eaters2 when the pods are full1 it may serve for three4 ,,mem4 ,never think of purchasing pease ready-shelled1 for the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this receipt4 ,cucumbers stewed4--7,no4 #ace47 ,peel and cut cucumbers in quarters1 take out the seeds1 and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water3 when they are dry1 flour and fry them in fresh butter2 let the butter be quite hot before you put in the cucumbers2 fry them till they are brown1 then take them out with an egg-slice1 and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them 7some cooks fry sliced onions1 or some small button onions1 with them1 till they are a delicate light-brown colour1 drain them from the fat1 and then put them into a stew-pan with as much gravy as will cover them73 stew slowly till they are tender2 take out the cucumbers with a slice1 thicken the gravy with flour and butter1 give it a boil up1 season it with pepper and salt1 and put in the cucumbers2 as soon as they are warm1 they are ready4 ,the above1 rubbed through a tamis1 or fine sieve1 will be entitled to be called cucumber sauce4 ,see ,no4 #cii1 ,cucumber ,vinegar4 ,this is a very favourite sauce with lamb or mutton-cutlets1 stewed rump-steaks1 c4 c43 when made for the latter1 a third part of sliced onion is sometimes fried with the cucumber4#aff-99 ,artichokes4--7,no4 #acf47 ,soak them in cold water1 wash them well1 then put them into plenty of boiling water1 with a handful of salt1 and let them boil gently till they are tender1 which will take an hour and a half1 or two hours3 the surest way to know when they are done enough1 is to draw out a leaf2 trim them and drain them on a sieve2 and send up melted butter with them1 which some put into small cups1 so that each guest may have one4 ,stewed ,onions4--7,no4 #acg47 ,the large ,portugal onions are the best3 take off the top-coats of half a dozen of these 7taking care not to cut off the tops or tails too near1 or the onions will go to pieces71 and put them into a stew-pan broad enough to hold them without laying them atop of one another1 and just cover them with good broth4 ,put them over a slow fire1 and let them simmer about two hours2 when you dish them1 turn them upside down1 and pour the sauce over4 ,young onions stewed1 see ,no4 #bif4 ,salads4--7,no4 #ach991 also ,no4 #cgb74 ,those who desire to see this subject elaborately illustrated1 we refer to ,,evelyn',s ,acetaria1 a discourse of ,sallets1 a #abmo4 of #bdj pages4 ,london1 #afii4 ,mr4 ,e4 gives us an account of seventy-two herbs proper and fit to make sallet with2 and a table of thirty-five1 telling their seasons and proportions4 ,in the composure of a sallet1 every plant should come in to bear its part1 like the notes in music3 thus the comical ,master ,cook introduced by ,damoxenus1 when asked1 'what harmony there was in meats8' 'the very same1' says he1 'as the #c;d1 #eth1 and #hth have to one another in music3 the main skill lies in this1 not to mingle' 7'sapores minim consentientes'74 ',tastes not well joined1 inelegant1' as our ,paradisian bard directs ,eve1 when dressing a sallet for her angelical guest1 in ,,milton',s ,paradise ,lost4 ,he gives the following receipt for the oxoleon3-- ,take of clear and perfectly good oyl-olive three parts2 of sharpest vinegar 7sweetest of all condiments1 for it incites appetite1 and causes hunger1 which is the best sauce71 limon1 or juice of orange1 one part2 and therein let steep some slices of horseradish1 with a little salt4 ,some1 in a separate vinegar1 gently bruise a pod of ,ginny pepper1 and strain it to the other2 then add as much mustard as will lie upon a half-crown piece4 ,beat and mingle these well together with the yelk of two new-laid eggs boiled hard1 and pour it over your sallet1 stirring it well together4 ,the super-curious insist that the knife with which sallet herb is cut must be of silver4 ,some who are husbands of their oyl1 pour at first the oyl alone1 as more apt to communicate and diffuse its slipperiness1 than when it is mingled and beaten with the acids1 which they pour on last of all2 and it is incredible how small a quantity of oyl thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful assembly of sallet herbs4 ,obs4 ,our own directions to prepare and dress salads will be found under ,no4 #cgb4 ,,footnotes3 #aee-99 ,next to bread1 there is no vegetable article1 the preparation of which1 as food1 deserves to be more attended to1 than the potato4--,sir ,,john ,,sinclair',s ,code of ,health1 vol4 i4 p4 #ced4 ,by the analysis of potato1 it appears that #af ounces contained #aa-a_/b ounces of water1 and the #d-a_/b ounces of solid parts remaining1 afforded scarce a drachm of earth4--,,parmentier',s ,obs4 on ,nutritive ,vegetables1 #hvo4 #aghc1 p4 #aab4 #aee- ,or the small ones will be done to pieces before the large ones are boiled enough4 #aei-99 ,sweet potatoes1 otherwise called ,carolina potatoes1 are the roots of the ,convolvulus batatas1 a plant peculiar to and principally cultivated in ,america4 ,it delights in a warm climate1 but is raised in ,connecticut1 ,new-,york1 and all the states of the ,union south of ,new-,york4 ,it is an excellent vegetable for the dinner-table1 and is brought on boiled4 ,it has an advantage over common potatoes1 as it may be eaten cold2 and it is sometimes cut into thin slices and brought to the tea-table1 as a delicate relish1 owing to its agreeable nutritious sweetness4 ,a4 #afc-99 ,after parsnips are boiled1 they should be put into the frying-pan and browned a little4 ,some people do not admire this vegetable1 on account of its sickish sweetness4 ,it is1 however1 a wholesome1 cheap1 and nourishing vegetable1 best calculated for the table in winter and spring4 ,its sweetness may be modified by mashing with a few potatoes4 ,a4 #afd-99 ,these1 and all other fruits and vegetables1 c41 by ,mr4 ,,appert',s plan1 it is said1 may be preserved for twelve months4 ,see ,,appert',s ,book1 #abmo4 #ahab4 ,we have eaten of several specimens of preserved pease1 which looked pretty enough1--but flavour they had none at all4 #aff-99 ,cucumbers may be cut into quarters and boiled like asparagus1 and served up with toasted bread and melted butter4 ,this is a most delicate way of preparing cucumbers for the dinner-table1 and they are a most luscious article1 and so rich and savoury that a small quantity will suffice4 ,the ordinary method of cutting cucumbers into slices with raw onions1 served up in vinegar1 and seasoned with salt and pepper1 is most vulgar and most unwholesome4 ,in their season they are cheap and plenty2 and as they are crude and unripe they require the stomach of an ostrich to digest them4 ,they cause much sickness in their season1 creating choleras1 cramps1 and dysenteries4 ,if stewed or boiled as above directed1 they would be more nutritious and wholesome4 ,a4 ,,fish4 ,see ,obs4 on ,codfish after ,no4 #adi4 ,turbot to boil4--7,no4 #adj74 ,this excellent fish is in season the greatest part of the summer2 when good1 it is at once firm and tender1 and abounds with rich gelatinous nutriment4 ,being drawn1 and washed clean1 if it be quite fresh1 by rubbing it lightly with salt1 and keeping it in a cold place1 you may in moderate weather preserve it for a couple of days4#afh-99 ,an hour or two before you dress it1 soak it in spring-water with some salt in it1 then score the skin across the thickest part of the back1 to prevent its breaking on the breast1 which will happen from the fish swelling1 and cracking the skin1 if this precaution be not used4 ,put a large handful of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water1 lay your fish on a fish-strainer1 put it in1 and when it is coming to a boil1 skim it well2 then set the kettle on the side of the fire1 to boil as gently as possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes 7if it boils fast1 the fish will break to pieces72 supposing it a middling-sized turbot1 and to weigh eight or nine pounds4 ,rub a little of the inside red coral spawn of the lobster through a hair sieve1 without butter2 and when the turbot is dished1 sprinkle the spawn over it4 ,garnish the dish with sprigs of curled parsley1 sliced lemon1 and finely-scraped horseradish4 ,if you like to send it to table in full dress1 surround it with nicely-fried smelts 7,no4 #agc71 gudgeons are often used for this purpose1 and may be bought very cheap when smelts are very dear2 lay the largest opposite the broadest part of the turbot1 so that they may form a well-proportioned fringe for it2 or oysters 7,no4 #ahc9972 or cut a sole in strips1 crossways1 about the size of a smelt2 fry them as directed in ,no4 #ade1 and lay them round4 ,send up lobster sauce 7,no4 #bhd72 two boats of it1 if it is for a large party4 ,n4,b4 ,cold turbot1 with ,no4 #cgb for sauce2 or take off the fillets that are left as soon as the turbot returns from table1 and they will make a side dish for your next dinner1 warmed in ,no4 #cfd--b4 ,obs4 ,the thickest part is the favourite2 and the carver of this fish must remember to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers4 ,it will save a troublesome job to the carver1 if the cook1 when the fish is boiled1 cuts the spine-bone across the middle4 ,a ,brill1--7,no4 #adc47 ,is dressed the same way as a turbot4 ,soles to boil4--7,no4 #add47 ,a fine1 fresh1 thick sole is almost as good eating as a turbot4 ,wash and clean it nicely2 put it into a fish-kettle with a handful of salt1 and as much cold water as will cover it2 set it on the side of the fire1 take off the scum as it rises1 and let it boil gently2 about five minutes 7according to its size7 will be long enough1 unless it be very large4 ,send it up on a fish-drainer1 garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs of curled parsley1 or nicely-fried smelts 7,no4 #agc71 or oysters 7,no4 #ahc74 ,obs4 ,slices of lemon are a universally acceptable garnish with either fried or broiled fish3 a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be added1 if you wish to make it look very smart2 and parsley1 or fennel and butter1 are excellent sauces 7see ,nos4 #bfa and #bfe71 or chervil sauce 7,no4 #bfd71 anchovy 7,no4 #bgj74 ,n4,b4 ,boiled soles are very good warmed up like eels1 ,wiggy's way 7,no4 #afd71 or covered with white sauce 7,no4 #cfd--b2 and see ,no4 #aeh74 ,soles1 or other ,fish1 to fry4--7,no4 #ade47 ,soles are generally to be procured good from some part of the coast1 as some are going out of season1 and some coming in1 both at the same time2 a great many are brought in well-boats alive1 that are caught off ,dover and ,folkstone1 and some are brought from the same places by land-carriage4 ,the finest soles are caught off ,plymouth1 near the ,eddystone1 and all the way up the channel1 and to ,torbay2 and frequently weigh eight or ten pounds per pair3 they are generally brought by water to ,portsmouth1 and thence by land2 but the greatest quantity are caught off ,yarmouth and the ,knole1 and off the ,forelands4 ,be sure they are quite fresh1 or the cleverest cook cannot make them either look or eat well4 ,an hour before you intend to dress them1 wash them thoroughly1 and wrap them in a clean cloth1 to make them perfectly dry1 or the bread-crumbs will not stick to them4 ,prepare some bread-crumbs1#agj-99 by rubbing some stale bread through a colander2 or1 if you wish the fish to appear very delicate and highly-finished1 through a hair-sieve2 or use biscuit powder4 ,beat the yelk and white of an egg well together1 on a plate1 with a fork2 flour your fish1 to absorb any moisture that may remain1 and wipe it off with a clean cloth2 dip them in the egg on both sides all over1 or1 what is better1 egg them with a paste-brush2 put the egg on in an even degree over the whole fish1 or the bread-crumbs will not stick to it even1 and the uneven part will burn to the pan4 ,strew the bread-crumbs all over the fish1 so that they cover every part1 take up the fish by the head1 and shake off the loose crumbs4 ,the fish is now ready for the frying-pan4 ,put a quart or more of fresh sweet olive-oil1 or clarified butter 7,no4 #bei71 dripping 7,no4 #hc71 lard1#agj- or clarified drippings 7,no4 #hc72 be sure they are quite sweet and perfectly clean 7the fat ought to cover the fish73 what we here order is for soles about ten inches long2 if larger1 cut them into pieces the proper size to help at table2 this will save much time and trouble to the carver3 when you send them to table1 lay them in the same form they were before they were cut1 and you may strew a little curled parsley over them3 they are much easier managed in the frying-pan1 and require less fat3 fry the thick part a few minutes before you put in the thin1 you can by this means only fry the thick part enough1 without frying the thin too much4 ,very large soles should be boiled 7,no4 #add71 or fried in fillets 7,no4 #adg74 ,soles cut in pieces1 crossways1 about the size of a smelt1 make a very pretty garnish for stewed fish and boiled fish4 ,set the frying-pan over a sharp and clear fire2 watch it1 skim it with an egg-slice1 and when it boils1#agj- i4 e4 when it has done bubbling1 and the smoke just begins to rise from the surface1 put in the fish3 if the fat is not extremely hot1 it is impossible to fry fish of a good colour1 or to keep them firm and crisp4 7,read the #c;d chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery47 ,the best way to ascertain the heat of the fat1 is to try it with a bit of bread as big as a nut2 if it is quite hot enough1 the bread will brown immediately4 ,put in the fish1 and it will be crisp and brown on the side next the fire1 in about four or five minutes2 to turn it1 stick a two-pronged fork near the head1 and support the tail with a fish-slice1 and fry the other side nearly the same length of time4 ,fry one sole at a time1 except the pan is very large1 and you have plenty of fat4 ,when the fish are fried1 lay them on a soft cloth 7old tablecloths are best71 near enough the fire to keep them warm2 turn them every two or three minutes1 till they are quite dry on both sides2 this common cooks commonly neglect4 ,it will take ten or fifteen minutes1#aga-99 if the fat you fried them in was not hot enough2 when it is1 they want very little drying4 ,when soles are fried1 they will keep very good in a dry place for three or four days2 warm them by hanging them on the hooks in a ,dutch oven1 letting them heat very gradually1 by putting it some distance from the fire for about twenty minutes1 or in good gravy1 as eels1 ,wiggy's way 7,nos4 #afd1 #bii1 #ccg1 or #cef74 ,obs4 ,there are several general rules in this receipt which apply to all fried fish3 we have been very particular and minute in our directions2 for1 although a fried sole is so frequent and favourite a dish1 it is very seldom brought to table in perfection4#aga- ,soles to stew4--7,no4 #adf47 ,these are half fried1 and then done the same as eels1 ,wiggy's way4 ,see ,no4 #afd4 ,fillets of ,soles1 brown or white4--7,no4 #adg47 ,take off the fillets very nicely1 trim them neatly1 and press them dry between a soft cloth2 egg1 crumb1 and fry them1 c4 as directed in ,no4 #ade1 or boil them1 and serve them with ,no4 #cfd--b4 ,n4,b4 ,this is one of the best ways of dressing very large soles4 ,see also ,no4 #afd4 ,skate1#agb-99--7,no4 #adh47 ,is very good when in good season1 but no fish so bad when it is otherwise3 those persons that like it firm and dry1 should have it crimped2 but those that like it tender1 should have it plain1 and eat it not earlier than the second day1 and if cold weather1 three or four days old it is better3 it cannot be kept too long1 if perfectly sweet4 ,young skate eats very fine crimped and fried4 ,see ,no4 #aed4 ,cod boiled4--7,no4 #adi47 ,wash and clean the fish1 and rub a little salt in the inside of it 7if the weather is very cold1 a large cod is the better for being kept a day73 put plenty of water in your fish-kettle1 so that the fish may be well covered2 put in a large handful of salt2 and when it is dissolved1 put in your fish2 a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty minutes after the water boils1 a large one about half an hour2 drain it on the fish-plate2 dish it with a garnish of the roe1 liver1 chitterlings1 c4 or large native oysters1 fried a light brown 7see ,no4 #ahc9971 or smelts 7,no4 #agc71 whitings 7,no4 #aec71 the tail#agb- of the cod cut in slices1 or bits the size and shape of oysters1 or split it1 and fry it4 ,scolloped oysters 7,no4 #ahb71 oyster sauce 7,no4 #bgh71 slices of cod cut about half an inch thick1 and fried as soles 7,no4 #ade71 are very nice4 ,,mem4--,the ,,sounds 7the jelly parts about the jowl71 the palate1 and the tongue are esteemed exquisites by piscivorous epicures1 whose longing eyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their favourite bonne bouche3 the carver's reputation depends much on his equitable distribution of them4#agc-99 ,salt ,fish boiled4--7,no4 #aej47 ,salt fish requires soaking1 according to the time it has been in salt2 trust not to those you buy it of1 but taste a bit of one of the flakes2 that which is hard and dry requires two nights' soaking1 changing the water two or three times2 the intermediate day1 lay it on a stone floor3 for barrelled cod less time will do2 and for the best ,dogger-bank split fish1 which has not been more than a fortnight or three weeks in salt1 still less will be needful4 ,put it into plenty of cold water1 and let it simmer very gently till it is enough2 if the water boils1 the fish will be tough and thready4#agc- ,for egg sauce1 see ,no4 #bfg2 and to boil red beet-root1 ,no4 #abg2 parsnips1 ,no4 #abh2 ,carrots1 ,no4 #abi4 ,garnish salt fish with the yelks of eggs cut into quarters4 ,obs4--,our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a dish of equal parts of red beet-root and parsnips4 ,n4,b4 ,salted fish differs in quality quite as much as it does in price4 ,slices of ,cod boiled4--7,no4 #aea47 ,half an hour before you dress them1 put them into cold spring-water with some salt in it4 ,lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle1 with as much cold spring-water as will cover them1 and some salt2 set it on a quick fire1 and when it boils1 skim it1 and set it on one side of the fire to boil very gently1 for about ten minutes1 according to its size and thickness4 ,garnish with scraped horseradish1 slices of lemon1 and a slice of the liver on one side1 and chitterling on the other4 ,oyster sauce 7,no4 #bgh71 and plain butter4 ,obs4--,slices of cod 7especially the tail1 split7 are very good1 fried like soles 7,no4 #ade71 or stewed in gravy like eels 7,no4 #afd1 or ,no4 #cfd--b74agd-99 ,fresh ,sturgeon4--7,no4 #aeb47 ,the best mode of dressing this1 is to have it cut in thin slices like veal cutlets1 and broiled1 and rubbed over with a bit of butter and a little pepper1 and served very hot1 and eaten with a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,great care1 however1 must be taken to cut off the skin before it is broiled1 as the oil in the skin1 if burned1 imparts a disgusting flavour to the fish4 ,the flesh is very fine1 and comes nearer to veal1 perhaps1 than even turtle4 ,sturgeon is frequently plentiful and reasonable in the ,london shops4 ,we prefer this mode of dressing it to the more savoury one of stewing it in rich gravy1 like carp1 c4 which overpowers the peculiar flavour of the fish4#agd- ,whitings fried4--7,no4 #aec47 ,skin#agd- them1 preserve the liver 7see ,no4 #bbh71 and fasten their tails to their mouths2 dip them in egg1 then in bread-crumbs1 and fry them in hot lard 7read ,no4 #ade71 or split them1 and fry them like fillets of soles 7,no4 #adg74 ,a three-quart stew-pan1 half full of fat1 is the best utensil to fry whitings4 ,they will be done enough in about five minutes2 but it will sometimes require a quarter of an hour to drain the fat from them and dry them 7if the fat you put them into was not hot enough71 turning them now and then with a fish-slice4 ,obs4--,when whitings are scarce1 the fishmongers can skin and truss young codlings1 so that you can hardly tell the difference1 except that a codling wears a beard1 and a whiting does not3 this distinguishing mark is sometimes cut off2 however1 if you turn up his jowl1 you may see the mark where the beard was1 and thus discover whether he be a real whiting1 or a shaved codling4 ,skate fried4--7,no4 #aed47 ,after you have cleaned the fish1 divide it into fillets2 dry them on a clean cloth2 beat the yelk and white of an egg thoroughly together1 dip the fish in this1 and then in fine bread-crumbs2 fry it in hot lard or drippings till it is of a delicate brown colour2 lay it on a hair-sieve to drain2 garnish with crisp parsley 7,no4 #cah71 and some like caper sauce1 with an anchovy in it4 ,plaice or ,flounders1 fried or boiled4--7,no4 #aee47 ,flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry very nicely4 ,clean them well1 flour them1 and wipe them with a dry cloth to absorb all the water from them2 flour or egg and bread-crumb them1 c4 as directed in ,no4 #ade4 ,to boil ,flounders4 ,wash and clean them well1 cut the black side of them the same as you do turbot1 then put them into a fish-kettle1 with plenty of cold water and a handful of salt2 when they come to a boil1 skim them clean1 and let them stand by the side of the fire for five minutes1 and they are ready4 ,obs4--,eaten with plain melted butter and a little salt1 you have the sweet delicate flavour of the flounder1 which is overpowered by any sauce4 ,water ,souchy1#age-99--7,no4 #aef47 ,is made with flounders1 whitings1 gudgeons1 or eels4 ,these must be quite fresh1 and very nicely cleaned2 for what they are boiled in1 is the sauce for them4 ,wash1 gut1 and trim your fish1 cut them into handsome pieces1 and put them into a stew-pan with just as much water as will cover them1 with some parsley1 or parsley-roots sliced1 an onion minced fine1 and a little pepper and salt 7to this some cooks add some scraped horseradish and a bay leaf72 skim it carefully when it boils2 when your fish is done enough 7which it will be in a few minutes71 send it up in a deep dish1 lined with bread sippets1 and some slices of bread and butter on a plate4 ,obs4--,some cooks thicken the liquor the fish has been stewing in with flour and butter1 and flavour it with white wine1 lemon-juice1 essence of anchovy1 and catchup2 and boil down two or three flounders1 c4 to make a fish broth to boil the other fish in1 observing1 that the broth cannot be good unless the fish are boiled too much4 ,haddock boiled4--7,no4 #aeg47 ,wash it well1 and put it on to boil1 as directed in ,no4 #adi2 a haddock of three pounds will take about ten minutes after the kettle boils4 ,haddocks1 salted a day or two1 are eaten with egg sauce1 or cut in fillets1 and fried4 ,or1 if small1 very well broiled1 or baked1 with a pudding in their belly1 and some good gravy4 ,obs4 ,a piscivorous epicure protests that ,haddock is the poorest fish that swims1 and has neither the delicacy of the whiting1 nor the juicyness of the cod4#agf-99 ,findhorn ,haddocks4--7,no4 #aeg9947 ,let the fish be well cleaned1 and laid in salt for two hours2 let the water drain from them1 and then wet them with the pyroligneous acid2 they may be split or not3 they are then to be hung in a dry situation for a day or two1 or a week or two1 if you please2 when broiled1 they have all the flavour of the ,findhorn haddock1 and will keep sweet for a long time4 ,the pyroligneous acid1 applied in the same way to beef or mutton1 gives the fine smoke flavour1 and may be kept for a considerable length of time4 ,scotch way of dressing haddocks4--,a haddock is quite like a different fish in ,london and in ,edinburgh1 which arises chiefly from the manner in which they are treated3 a haddock should never appear at table with its head and skin on4 ,for boiling1 they are all the better for lying a night in salt2 of course they do not take so long to boil without the skin1 and require to be well skimmed to preserve the colour4 ,after lying in salt for a night1 if you hang them up for a day or two1 they are very good broiled and served with cold butter4 ,for frying1 they should be split and boned very carefully1 and divided into convenient pieces1 if too large to halve merely2 egg and crumb them1 and fry in a good deal of lard2 they resemble soles when dressed in this manner4 ,there is another very delicate mode of dressing them2 you split the fish1 rub it well with butter1 and do it before the fire in a ,dutch oven4 ,to stew ,cod's ,skull1 ,sole1 ,carp1 ,trout1 ,perch1 ,eel1 or ,flounder4--,no4 #aeh4 7,see also ,no4 #afd47 ,when the fish has been properly washed1 lay it in a stew-pan1 with half a pint of claret or port wine1 and a quart of good gravy 7,no4 #cbi72 a large onion1 a dozen berries of black pepper1 the same of allspice1 and a few cloves1 or a bit of mace3 cover the fish-kettle close1 and let it stew gently for ten or twenty minutes1 according to the thickness of the fish3 take the fish up1 lay it on a hot dish1 cover it up1 and thicken the liquor it was stewed in with a little flour1 and season it with pepper1 salt1 essence of anchovy1 mushroom catchup1 and a little ,chili vinegar2 when it has boiled ten minutes1 strain it through a tamis1 and pour it over the fish3 if there is more sauce than the dish will hold1 send the rest up in a boat4 ,the river trout comes into season in ,april1 and continues till ,july2 it is a delicious fish2 those caught near ,uxbridge come to town quite alive4 ,the eels and perch from the same water are very fine4 ,obs4--,these fish are very nice plain boiled1 with ,no4 #bfa1 or ,no4 #bfd1 for sauce2 some cooks dredge them with flour1 and fry them a light brown before they put them on to stew1 and stuff them with ,no4 #cgd1 or some of the stuffings following4 ,to dress them maigre4 ,put the fish into a stew-pan1 with a large onion1 four cloves1 fifteen berries of allspice1 and the same of black pepper2 just cover them with boiling water1 set it where they will simmer gently for ten or twenty minutes1 according to the size of the fish2 strain off the liquor in another stew-pan1 leaving the fish to keep warm till the sauce is ready4 ,rub together on a plate as much flour and butter as will make the sauce as thick as a double cream4 ,each pint of sauce season with a glass of wine1 half as much mushroom catchup1 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy1 and a few grains of ,cayenne2 let it boil a few minutes1 put the fish on a deep dish1 strain the gravy over it2 garnish it with sippets of bread toasted or fried 7,no4 #cai74 ,n4,b4 ,the editor has paid particular attention to the above receipt1 and also to ,no4 #bbd1 which ,catholics1 and those whose religious tenets do not allow them to eat meat on maigre days1 will find a very satisfactory substitute for the meat gravy soup 7,no4 #bjj74 ,for sauce for maigre dishes1 see ,nos4 #bbe1 #cje1 and #cfd--b4 ,obs4 ,mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci7 and onions 7,no4 #djb7 supply the place of meat better than any thing2 if you have not these1 wine1 spice 7,no4 #deg71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 aromatic roots and herbs1 anchovy and soy1 or oyster catchup 7,no4 #dda71 variously combined1 and thickened with flour and butter1 are convenient substitutes4 ,maigre ,fish ,pies4 ,salt-fish pie4 ,the thickest part must be chosen1 and put in cold water to soak the night before wanted2 then boil it well1 take it up1 take away the bones and skin1 and if it is good fish it will be in fine layers2 set it on a fish-drainer to get cold3 in the mean time1 boil four eggs hard1 peel and slice them very thin1 the same quantity of onion sliced thin2 line the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat 7,no4 #chc71 or a layer of potatoes sliced thin1 then a layer of onions1 then of fish1 and of eggs1 and so on till the dish is full2 season each layer with a little pepper1 then mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard1 the same of essence of anchovy1 a little mushroom catchup1 in a gill of water1 put it in the dish1 then put on the top an ounce of fresh butter broke in bits2 cover it with puff paste1 and bake it one hour4 ,fresh cod may be done in the same way1 by adding a little salt4 ,all fish for making pies1 whether soles1 flounders1 herrings1 salmon1 lobster1 eels1 trout1 tench1 c4 should be dressed first2 this is the most economical way for ,catholic families1 as what is boiled one day will make excellent pies or patties the next4 ,if you intend it for pies1 take the skin off1 and the bones out2 lay your salmon1 soles1 turbot1 or codfish1 in layers1 and season each layer with equal quantities of pepper1 allspice1 mace1 and salt1 till the dish is full4 ,save a little of the liquor that the fish was boiled in2 set it on the fire with the bones and skin of the fish1 boil it a quarter of an hour1 then strain it through a sieve1 let it settle1 and pour it in the dish2 cover it with puff-paste2 bake it about an hour and a quarter4 ,shrimps1 prawns1 or oysters added1 will improve the above2 if for patties1 they must be cut in small pieces1 and dressed in a bechamel sauce 7,no4 #cfd74 ,cod-sounds for a pie should be soaked at least twenty-four hours1 then well washed1 and put on a cloth to dry4 ,put in a stew-pan two ounces of fresh butter1 with four ounces of sliced onions2 fry them of a nice brown1 then put in a small table-spoonful of flour1 and add half a pint of boiling water2 when smooth1 put in about ten cod-sounds1 and season them with a little pepper1 a glass of white wine1 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy1 the juice of half a lemon2 stir it well together1 put it in a pie-dish1 cover it with paste1 and bake it one hour4 ,perch1 ,roach1 ,dace1 ,gudgeons1 c4 fried4--7,no4 #aei47 ,wash the fish well1 wipe them on a dry cloth1 flour them lightly all over1 and fry them ten minutes 7,no4 #ade7 in hot lard or drippings2 lay them on a hair-sieve to drain2 send them up on a hot dish1 garnished with sprigs of green parsley4 ,anchovy sauce1 ,nos4 #bgj and #dcc4 ,perch boiled4#agi-99--7,no4 #afj47 ,clean them carefully1 and put them in a fish-kettle1 with as much cold spring-water as will cover them1 with a handful of salt2 set them on a quick fire till they boil2 when they boil1 set them on one side to boil gently for about ten minutes1 according to their size4 ,salmon1 ,herrings1 ,sprats1 ,mackerel1 c4 pickled4--7,no4 #afa47 ,cut the fish into proper pieces2 do not take off the scales2 make a brine strong enough to bear an egg1 in which boil the fish2 it must be boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it2 do not overboil it4 ,when the fish is boiled1 lay it slantingly to drain off all the liquor2 when cold1 pack it close in the kits1 and fill them up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon was boiled in 7having first well skimmed it71 and best vinegar 7,no4 #bd72 let them rest for a day2 fill up again1 striking the sides of the kit with a cooper's adze1 until the kit will receive no more2 then head them down as close as possible4 ,obs4 ,this is in the finest condition when fresh4 ,salmon is most plentiful about midsummer2 the season for it is from ,february to ,september4 ,some sprigs of fresh-gathered young fennel are the accompaniments4 ,n4,b4 ,the three indispensable marks of the goodness of pickled salmon are1 #ast1 ,the brightness of the scales1 and their sticking fast to the skin2 #b;dly1 ,the firmness of the flesh2 and1 #c;dly1 ,its fine1 pale-red rose colour4 ,without these it is not fit to eat1 and was either stale before it was pickled1 or has been kept too long after4 ,the above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it for the ,london market4 ,n4,b4 ,pickled salmon warmed by steam1 or in its pickle liquor1 is a favourite dish at ,newcastle4 ,salmon#ahj-99 boiled4--7,no4 #afb47 ,put on a fish-kettle1 with spring-water enough to well cover the salmon you are going to dress1 or the salmon will neither look nor taste well3 7boil the liver in a separate saucepan47 ,when the water boils1 put in a handful of salt3 take off the scum as soon as it rises2 have the fish well washed2 put it in1 and if it is thick1 let it boil very gently4 ,salmon requires almost as much boiling as meat2 about a quarter of an hour to a pound of fish3 but practice only can perfect the cook in dressing salmon4 ,a quarter of a salmon will take almost as long boiling as half a one3 you must consider the thickness1 not the weight3 ten pounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in an hour and a quarter4 ,lobster ,sauce1 ,no4 #bhd4 ,obs4 ,the thinnest part of the fish is the fattest2 and if you have a grand gourmand at table1 ask him if he is for thick or thin4 ,the ,thames salmon is preferred in the ,london market2 and some epicures pretend to be able to distinguish by the taste1 in which reach of the river it was caught666 ,n4,b4 ,if you have any left1 put it into a pie-dish1 and cover it with an equal portion of vinegar and pump-water1 and a little salt3 it will be ready in three days4 ,fresh ,salmon broiled4--7,no4 #afc47 ,clean the salmon well1 and cut it into slices about an inch and a half thick2 dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth2 rub it over with sweet oil1 or thick melted butter1 and sprinkle a little salt over it3 put your gridiron over a clear fire1 at some distance2 when it is hot wipe it clean2 rub it with sweet oil or lard2 lay the salmon on1 and when it is done on one side1 turn it gently and broil the other4 ,anchovy sauce1 c4 ,obs4 ,an oven does them best4 ,soles or ,eels1#aha-99 c4 c4 stewed ,wiggy's way4--7,no4 #afd47 ,take two pounds of fine silver#aha- eels3 the best are those that are rather more than a half-crown piece in circumference1 quite fresh1 full of life1 and as brisk as an eel3 such as have been kept out of water till they can scarce stir1 are good for nothing3 gut them1 rub them with salt till the slime is cleaned from them1 wash them in several different waters1 and divide them into pieces about four inches long4 ,some cooks1 after skinning them1 dredge them with a little flour1 wipe them dry1 and then egg and crumb them1 and fry them in drippings till they are brown1 and lay them to dry on a hair sieve4 ,have ready a quart of good beef gravy 7,no4 #cbi72 it must be cold when you put the eels into it3 set them on a slow fire to simmer very gently for about a quarter of an hour1 according to the size of the eels2 watch them1 that they are not done too much2 take them carefully out of the stew-pan with a fish-slice1 so as not to tear their coats1 and lay them on a dish about two inches deep4 ,or1 if for maigre days1 when you have skinned your eels1 throw the skins into salt and water2 wash them well2 then put them into a stew-pan with a quart of water1 two onions1 with two cloves stuck in each1 and one blade of mace2 let it boil twenty minutes1 and strain it through a sieve into a basin4 ,make the sauce about as thick as cream1 by mixing a little flour with it2 put in also two table-spoonfuls of port wine1 and one of mushroom catchup1 or cavice3 stir it into the sauce by degrees1 give it a boil1 and strain it to the fish through a sieve4 ,n4,b4 ,if mushroom sauce 7,nos4 #bbe1 #cje1 or #ccc71 or white sauce 7,no4 #cfd--b71 be used instead of beef gravy1 this will be one of the most relishing maigre dishes we know4 ,obs4 ,to kill eels instantly1 without the horrid torture of cutting and skinning them alive1 pierce the spinal marrow1 close to the back part of the skull1 with a sharp-pointed skewer3 if this be done in the right place1 all motion will instantly cease4 ,the humane executioner does certain criminals the favour to hang them before he breaks them on the wheel4 ,to fry ,eels4--7,no4 #afe47 ,skin and gut them1 and wash them well in cold water1 cut them in pieces four inches long1 season them with pepper and salt2 beat an egg well on a plate1 dip them in the egg1 and then in fine bread-crumbs2 fry them in fresh1 clean lard2 drain them well from the fat2 garnish with crisp parsley4 ,for sauce1 plain and melted butter1 sharpened with lemon-juice1 or parsley and butter4 ,spitchocked ,eels4--7,no4 #aff47 ,this the ,french cooks call the ,english way of dressing eels4 ,take two middling-sized silver eels1 leave the skin on1 scour them with salt1 and wash them1 cut off the heads1 slit them on the belly side1 and take out the bones and guts1 and wash and wipe them nicely2 then cut them into pieces about three inches long1 and wipe them quite dry2 put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan with a little minced parsley1 thyme1 sage1 pepper1 and salt1 and a very little chopped eschalot2 set the stew-pan over the fire2 when the butter is melted1 stir the ingredients together1 and take it off the fire1 mix the yelks of two eggs with them1 and dip the eel in1 a piece at a time1 and then roll them in bread-crumbs1 making as much stick to them as you can2 then rub the gridiron with a bit of suet1 set it high over a very clear fire1 and broil your eels of a fine crisp brown4 ,dish them with crisp parsley1 and send up with plain butter in a boat1 and anchovy and butter4 ,obs4 ,we like them better with the skin off2 it is very apt to offend delicate stomachs4 ,mackerel boiled4#ahc-99--7,no4 #afg47 ,this fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea1 and the fresher it is the better4 ,wash and clean them thoroughly 7the fishmongers seldom do this sufficiently71 put them into cold water with a handful of salt in it2 let them rather simmer than boil2 a small mackerel will be done enough in about a quarter of an hour2 when the eye starts and the tail splits1 they are done2 do not let them stand in the water a moment after2 they are so delicate that the heat of the water will break them4 ,this fish1 in ,london1 is rarely fresh enough to appear at table in perfection2 and either the mackerel is boiled too much1 or the roe#ahc- too little4 ,the best way is to open a slit opposite the middle of the roe1 you can then clean it properly2 this will allow the water access1 and the roe will then be done as soon as the fish1 which it seldom is otherwise2 some sagacious gourmands insist upon it they must be taken out and boiled separately4 ,for sauce1 see ,nos4 #bfc1 #bfe1 and #bff2 and you may garnish them with pats of minced fennel4 ,n4,b4 ,the common notion is1 that mackerel are in best condition when fullest of roe2 however1 the fish at that time is only valuable for its roe1 the meat of it has scarcely any flavour4 ,mackerel generally make their appearance off the ,land's ,end about the beginning of ,april2 and as the weather gets warm they gradually come round the coast1 and generally arrive off ,brighton about ,may1 and continue for some months1 until they begin to shoot their spawn4 ,after they have let go their roes1 they are called shotten mackerel1 and are not worth catching2 the roe1 which was all that was good of them1 being gone4 ,it is in the early season1 when they have least roe1 that the flesh of this fish is in highest perfection4 ,there is also an after-season1 when a few fine large mackerel are taken1 7i4 e4 during the herring season1 about ,october17 which some piscivorous epicures are very partial to2 these fish having had time to fatten and recover their health1 are full of high flavour1 and their flesh is firm and juicy3 they are commonly called silver mackerel1 from their beautiful appearance1 their colour being almost as bright when boiled as it was the moment they were caught4 ,mackerel broiled4--7,no4 #afi47 ,clean a fine large mackerel1 wipe it on a dry cloth1 and cut a long slit down the back2 lay it on a clean gridiron1 over a very clear1 slow fire2 when it is done on one side1 turn it2 be careful that it does not burn2 send it up with fennel sauce 7,no4 #bfe72 mix well together a little finely minced fennel and parsley1 seasoned with a little pepper and salt1 a bit of fresh butter1 and when the mackerel are ready for the table1 put some of this into each fish4 ,mackerel baked4#ahd-99--7,no4 #agj47 ,cut off their heads1 open them1 and take out the roes and clean them thoroughly2 rub them on the inside with a little pepper and salt1 put the roes in again1 season them 7with a mixture of powdered allspice1 black pepper1 and salt1 well rubbed together71 and lay them close in a baking-pan1 cover them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water1 tie them down with strong white paper doubled1 and bake them for an hour in a slow oven4 ,they will keep for a fortnight4 ,pickled ,mackerel1 ,herrings1 or ,sprats4--7,no4 #aga47 ,procure them as fresh as possible1 split them1 take off the heads1 and trim off the thin part of the belly1 put them into salt and water for one hour1 drain and wipe your fish1 and put them into jars or casks1 with the following preparation1 which is enough for three dozen mackerel4 ,take salt and bay-salt1 one pound each1 saltpetre and lump-sugar1 two ounces each2 grind and pound the salt1 c4 well together1 put the fish into jars or casks1 with a layer of the preparation at the bottom1 then a layer of mackerel with the skin-side downwards1 so continue alternately till the cask or jar is full2 press it down and cover it close4 ,in about three months they will be fit for use4 ,sprats broiled4--7,no4 #agj99--;,fried1 see ,no4 #agc47 ,if you have not a sprat gridiron1 get a piece of pointed iron wire as thick as packthread1 and as long as your gridiron is broad2 run this through the heads of your sprats1 sprinkle a little flour and salt over them1 put your gridiron over a clear1 quick fire1 turn them in about a couple of minutes2 when the other side is brown1 draw out the wire1 and send up the fish with melted butter in a cup4 ,obs4 ,that sprats are young herrings1 is evident by their anatomy1 in which there is no perceptible difference4 ,they appear very soon after the herrings are gone1 and seem to be the spawn just vivified4 ,sprats stewed4--7,no4 #agj999947 ,wash and dry your sprats1 and lay them as level as you can in a stew-pan1 and between every layer of sprats put three peppercorns1 and as many allspice1 with a few grains of salt2 barely cover them with vinegar1 and stew them one hour over a slow fire2 they must not boil3 a bay-leaf is sometimes added4 ,herrings or mackerel may be stewed the same way4 ,to fry sprats1 see ,no4 #agc4 ,herrings broiled4--7,no4 #aga9947 ,wash them well1 then dry them with a cloth1 dust them with flour1 and broil them over a slow fire till they are well done4 ,send up melted butter in a boat4 ,obs4 ,for a particular account of herrings1 see ,,solas ,,dodd',s ,natural ,hist4 of ,herrings1 in #agh pages1 #hvo4 #ageb4 ,red ,herrings1 and other dried ,fish1--7,no4 #agb47 ,should be cooked in the same manner as now practised by the poor in ,scotland4 ,they soak them in water until they become pretty fresh2 they are then hung up in the sun and wind1 on a stick through their eyes1 to dry2 and then boiled or broiled4 ,in this way they eat almost as well as if they were new caught4 ,see the ,hon4 ,,john ,,cochrane',s ,seaman's ,guide1 #hvo4 #agig1 p4 #cd4 ,scotch haddocks should be soaked all night4 ,you may boil or broil them2 if you broil1 split them in two4 ,all the different sorts of dried fish1 except stock fish1 are salted1 dried in the sun in prepared kilns1 or by the smoke of wood fires1 and require to be softened and freshened1 in proportion to their bulk1 nature1 or dryness2 the very dry sort1 as cod1 whiting1 c4 should be steeped in lukewarm water1 kept as near as possible to an equal degree of heat4 ,the larger fish should be steeped twelve hours1 the smaller about two2 after which they should be taken out and hung up by the tails until they are dressed4 ,the reason for hanging them up is1 that they soften equally as in the steeping1 without extracting too much of the relish1 which would render them insipid4 ,when thus prepared1 the small fish1 as whiting1 tusks1 c4 should be floured and laid on the gridiron2 and when a little hardened on one side1 must be turned and basted with sweet oil upon a feather2 and when basted on both sides1 and well heated through1 taken up4 ,a clear charcoal fire is the best for cooking them1 and the fish should be kept at a good distance1 to broil gradually4 ,when they are done enough they will swell a little in the basting1 and you must not let them fall again4 ,if boiled1 as the larger fish generally are1 they should be kept just simmering over an equal fire1 in which way half an hour will do the largest fish1 and five minutes the smallest4 ,dried salmon1 though a large fish1 does not require more steeping than a whiting2 and when laid on the gridiron should be moderately peppered4 ,to herring and to all kinds of broiled salt fish1 sweet oil is the best basting4 ,the above is from ,,macdonald',s ,london ,family ,cook1 #hvo4 #ahjh1 p4 #aci4 ,obs4 ,dr4 ,harte1 in his ,essay on ,diet1 #afcc1 fol4 p4 #ia1 protests1 a red herring doth nourish little1 and is hard of concoction1 but very good to make a cup of good drink relish well1 and may be well called 'the drunkard's delight4' ,smelts1 ,gudgeons1 ,sprats1 or other small ,fish1 fried4--7,no4 #agc47 ,clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth1 fry them plain1 or beat an egg on a plate1 dip them in it1 and then in very fine bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a sieve2 the smaller the fish1 the finer should be the bread-crumbs--biscuit powder is still better2 fry them in plenty of clean lard or drippings2 as soon as the lard boils and is still1 put in the fish2 when they are delicately browned1 they are done2 this will hardly take two minutes4 ,drain them on a hair-sieve1 placed before the fire1 turning them till quite dry4 ,obs4 ,read ,no4 #ade4 ,smelts are allowed to be caught in the ,thames1 on the first of ,november1 and continue till ,may4 ,the ,thames smelts are the best and sweetest1 for two reasons2 they are fresher and richer than any other you can get3 they catch them much more plentiful and larger in ,lancashire and ,norfolk1 but not so good3 a great many are brought to town from ,norfolk1 but barely come good1 as they are a fish which should always be eaten fresh2 indeed1 all river fish should be eaten fresh1 except salmon1 which1 unless crimped1 eats better the second or third day3 but all ,thames fish1 particularly1 should be eaten very fresh2 no fish eats so bad kept4 ,potted ,prawns1 ,shrimps1 or ,cray-fish4--7,no4 #age47 ,boil them in water with plenty of salt in it4 ,when you have picked them1 powder them with a little beaten mace1 or grated nutmeg1 or allspice1 and pepper and salt2 add a little cold butter1 and pound all well together in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste4 ,put it into pots covered with clarified butter1 and cover them over with wetted bladder4 ,lobster4#ahg-99--7,no4 #agf47 ,buy these alive2 the lobster merchants sometimes keep them till they are starved1 before they boil them2 they are then watery1 have not half their flavour1 and like other persons that die of a consumption1 have lost the calf of their legs4 ,choose those that 7as an old cook says1 are heavy and lively1 and7 are full of motion1 which is the index of their freshness4 ,those of the middle size are the best4 ,never take them when the shell is incrusted1 which is a sign they are old4 ,the male lobster is preferred to eat1 and the female 7on account of the eggs7 to make sauce of4 ,the hen lobster is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male1 and less claws4 ,set on a pot1 with water salted in the proportion of a table-spoonful of salt to a quart of water2 when the water boils1 put it in1 and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to an hour1 according to its size2 wipe all the scum off it1 and rub the shell with a very little butter or sweet oil2 break off the great claws1 crack them carefully in each joint1 so that they may not be shattered1 and yet come to pieces easily2 cut the tail down the middle1 and send up the body whole4 ,for sauce1 ,no4 #bhe4 ,to pot lobster1 ,no4 #agh4 99499 ,these fish come in about ,april1 and continue plentiful till the oyster season returns2 after that time they begin to spawn1 and seldom open solid4 ,crab4--7,no4 #agg47 ,the above observations apply to crabs1 which should neither be too small nor too large4 ,the best size are those which measure about eight inches across the shoulders4 99499 ,crabs appear and disappear about the same time as lobsters4 ,the cromer crabs are most esteemed2 but numbers are brought from the ,isle of ,wight4 ,potted ,lobster or ,crab4#ahh-99--7,no4 #agh74 ,this must be made with fine hen lobsters1 when full of spawn3 boil them thoroughly 7,no4 #agf72 when cold1 pick out all the solid meat1 and pound it in a mortar3 it is usual to add1 by degrees1 7a very little7 finely-pounded mace1 black or ,cayenne pepper1 salt1 and1 while pounding1 a little butter4 ,when the whole is well mixed1 and beat to the consistence of paste1 press it down hard in a preserving-pot1 pour clarified butter over it1 and cover it with wetted bladder4 ,obs4--,some put lobster without pounding it1 and only cut it or pull it into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce1 and mince it with the spawn and soft parts and seasoning1 and press it together as close as possible2 in packing it1 place the coral and spawn1 c4 in layers1 so that it may look regular and handsome when cut out4 ,if you intend it as store 7see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bhd1 to make sauce with71 this is the best way to do it2 but if for sandwiches1 c4 the first is the best1 and will keep much longer4 ,dressed or buttered lobsters and crabs1 are favourite ornamental dishes with those who deck their table merely to please the eye4 ,our apology for not giving such receipts will be found in ,obs4 to ,no4 #cbb4 ,,oysters4#ahi-99--7,no4 #aha47 ,the common#ahi- ,colchester and ,feversham oysters are brought to market on the #eth of ,august2 the ,milton1 or1 as they are commonly called1 the melting natives1#ahi- do not come in till the beginning of ,october1 continue in season till the #abth of ,may1 and approach the meridian of their perfection about ,christmas4 ,some piscivorous gourmands think that oysters are not best when quite fresh from their beds1 and that their flavour is too brackish and harsh1 and is much ameliorated by giving them a feed4 ,to ,,feed#ahi- oysters4--,cover them with clean water1 with a pint of salt to about two gallons 7nothing else1 no oatmeal1 flour1 nor any other trumpery72 this will cleanse them from the mud and sand1 c4 of the bed2 after they have lain in it twelve hours1 change it for fresh salt and water1 and in twelve hours more they will be in prime order for the mouth1 and remain so two or three days3 at the time of high water you may see them open their shells1 in expectation of receiving their usual food4 ,this process of feeding oysters is only employed when a great many come up together4 ,the real ,colchester1 or ,pyfleet barrelled oysters1 that are packed at the beds1 are better without being put in water3 they are carefully and tightly packed1 and must not be disturbed till wanted for table4 ,these1 in moderate weather1 will keep good for a week or ten days4 ,if an oyster opens his mouth in the barrel1 he dies immediately4 ,to preserve the lives of barrelled oysters1 put a heavy weight on the wooden top of the barrel1 which is to be placed on the surface of the oysters4 ,this is to be effected by removing the first hoop2 the staves will then spread and stand erect1 making a wide opening for the head of the barrel to fall down closely on the remaining fish1 keeping them close together4 ,,mem4--,the oysters which are commonly sold as barrelled oysters1 are merely the smallest natives1 selected from the stock1 and put into the tub when ordered2 and1 instead of being of superior quality1 are often very inferior4 ,to immature animals there is the same objection as to unripe vegetables4 ,obs4--,common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters1 and the time of eating them after they are opened2 nothing1 however1 is more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater4 ,those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection1 must eat it the moment it is opened1 with its own gravy in the under shell2 if not eaten while absolutely alive1 its flavour and spirit are lost4 ,the true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the feelings of his little favourite1 and will never abandon it to the mercy of a bungling operator1 but will open it himself1 and contrive to detach the fish from the shell so dexterously1 that the oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from his lodging1 till he feels the teeth of the piscivorous gourmand tickling him to death4 ,n4,b4 ,fish is less nutritious than flesh3 as a proof1 when the trainer of ,newmarket wishes to waste a jockey1 he is not allowed meat1 nor even pudding1 if fish can be had4 ,the white kinds of fish1 turbots1 soles1 whiting1 cod1 haddock1 flounders1 smelts1 c4 are less nutritious than the oily1 fat fish1 such as eels1 salmon1 herrings1 sprats1 c43 the latter1 however1 are more difficult to digest1 and often disturb weak stomachs1 so that they are obliged to call in the assistance of ,cayenne1 ,cognac1 c4 ,shell-fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easily digestible and speedily restorative foods2 of these the oyster certainly deserves the best character1 but we think it has acquired not a little more reputation for these qualities than it deserves2 a well-dressed chop#aia-99 or steak1 see ,no4 #id1 will invigorate the heart in a much higher ratio2 to recruit the animal spirits1 and support strength1 there is nothing equal to animal food2 when kept till properly tender1 none will give so little trouble to the digestive organs1 and so much substantial excitement to the constitution4 ,see note under ,no4 #ahe4 ,see ,dr4 ,,wallis and ,mr4 ,,tyson',s ,papers on men's feeding on flesh1 in ,phil4 ,trans4 vol4 xxii4 p4 #gfi to #ggd2 and ,,porphyry on ,abstinence from ,animal ,food1 translated by ,thomas ,taylor1 #hvo4 #ahbc4 ,we could easily say as much in praise of mutton as ,mr4 ,ritson has against it1 in his ,essay on ,abstinence from ,animal ,food1 as a ,moral ,duty1 #hvo4 ,london1 #ahjb1 p4 #ajb4 ,he says1 ,the ,pagan priests were the first eaters of animal food2 it corrupted their taste1 and so excited them to gluttony1 that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly1 their luxurious appetites called for variety4 ,he who had devoured the sheep1 longed to masticate the shepherd666 ,nature seems to have provided other animals for the food of man1 from the astonishing increase of those which instinct points out to him as peculiarly desirable for that purpose4 ,for instance2 so quick is the produce of pigeons1 that1 in the space of four years1 #ad1gfj may come from a single pair2 and in the like period1 #a1bgd1hdj from a couple of rabbits1 this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the milt of a codfish4 ,scolloped ,oysters4--7,no4 #ahb47 ,a good way to warm up any cold fish4 ,stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes1 take them out with a spoon1 beard them1 and skim the liquor1 put a bit of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry it up1 then put to it the oyster liquor1 and give it a boil up1 put the oysters into scollop-shells that you have buttered1 and strewed with bread-crumbs1 then a layer of oysters1 then of bread-crumbs1 and then some more oysters2 moisten it with the oyster liquor1 cover them with bread-crumbs1 put about half a dozen little bits of butter on the top of each1 and brown them in a ,dutch oven4 ,obs4 ,essence of anchovy1 catchup1 ,cayenne1 grated lemon-peel1 mace1 and other spices1 c4 are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavour of the oyster4 ,cold fish may be re-dressed the same way4 ,n4,b4 ,small scollop-shells1 or saucers that hold about half a dozen oysters1 are the most convenient4 ,stewed ,oysters4--7,no4 #ahb9947 ,large oysters will do for stewing1 and by some are preferred2 but we love the plump1 juicy natives4 ,stew a couple of dozen of these in their own liquor2 when they are coming to a boil1 skim well1 take them up and beard them2 strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve1 and lay the oysters on a dish4 ,put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 put to it as much flour as will dry it up1 the liquor of the oysters1 and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream1 and a little white pepper and salt2 to this some cooks add a little catchup1 or finely-chopped parsley1 grated lemon-peel1 and juice2 let it boil up for a couple of minutes1 till it is smooth1 then take it off the fire1 put in the oysters1 and let them get warm 7they must not themselves be boiled1 or they will become hard72 line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish with bread-sippets1 and pour your oysters and sauce into it4 ,see ,obs4 to receipt ,no4 #bgh4 ,oysters fried4#aib-99--7,no4 #ahc47 ,the largest and finest oysters are to be chosen for this purpose2 simmer them in their own liquor for a couple of minutes1 take them out and lay them on a cloth to drain1 beard them and then flour them1 egg and bread-crumb them1 put them into boiling fat1 and fry them a delicate brown4 ,obs4 ,an elegant garnish for made dishes1 stewed rump-steaks1 boiled or fried fish1 c42 but they are too hard and dry to be eaten4 ,,footnotes3 #afh-99 ,i have ascertained1 by many years' observation1 that a turbot kept two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh one4--,,ude',s ,cookery1 p4 #bch4 ,,turbots4 ,the finest brought to the ,london market are caught off the ,dutch coast1 or ,german ,ocean1 and are brought in well-boats alive4 ,the commencement of the season is generally about ,march and ,april1 and continues all the summer4 ,turbots1 like other fish1 do not spawn all at the same time2 therefore1 there is always good and bad nearly all the year round4 ,for this year or two past1 there has been an immense quantity brought to ,london1 from all parts1 and of all qualities3 a great many from a new fishery off ,hartlepool1 which are very handsome-looking turbot1 but by no means equal to what are caught off the ,dutch coast4 ,many excellent turbots are caught off ,dover and ,dungeness2 and a large quantity brought from ,scotland1 packed in ice1 which are of a very inferior quality1 and are generally to be bought for about one-fourth the price of good turbots4 ,brills are generally caught at the same place as turbots1 and are generally of the same quality as the turbot1 from the different parts4 #agj-99 ,a large pair of soles will take the fourth part of a quartern loaf1 which now costs twopence halfpenny4 ,,oatmeal is a good substitute for bread-crumbs1 and costs comparatively nothing66 #agj- ,the ,,fat will do two or three times1 if strained through a hair-sieve1 and put by2 if you do not find it enough1 put a little fresh to it4 ,read ,no4 #hc1 and the #c;d chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 #agj- ,this requires a heat of upwards of #fjj degrees of ,fahrenheit's thermometer3--,,frying is1 in fact1 boiling in fat4 #aga-99 ,if you are in haste1 lay the sole on a clean1 soft cloth1 cover it with it1 and gently press it upon the fish1 to suck up the fat from its surface4 #aga- ,the very indifferent manner in which the operation of frying fish is usually performed1 we suppose1 produced the following jeu d'esprit1 which appeared in ,the ,morning ,chronicle3-- ,the ,king's bench reports have cook'd up an odd dish1 ,an action for damages1 fry versus fish4 ,but1 sure1 if for damages action could lie1 ,it certainly must have been fish against fry4 ,the author of ,the ,cook's ,cookery1 #hvo4 page #aaf1 does not seem to think this fish can be too fresh2 for he commences his directions with1 ,if you can1 get a cod hot out of the sea1 c4 #agb-99 ,the skate comes to the ,new-,york market in the spring1 but is not esteemed1 as we have many better fish4 ,the part about the flap or side-fin is best4 ,a4 #agb- ,the ,,tail is so much thinner than the thick part of the body1 that1 if boiled together1 the former will be boiled too much1 before the latter is done enough2 therefore it should be dressed separate2 and the best way of cooking it is to fry it in slices or fillets4 ,see ,no4 #aea4 ,cod generally comes into good season in ,october1 when1 if the weather is cold1 it eats as fine as at any time in the year2 towards the latter end of ,january and ,february1 and part of ,march1 they are mostly poor2 but the latter end of ,march1 ,april1 and ,may1 they are generally particularly fine2 having shot their spawn1 they come in fine order4 ,the ,dogger-bank cod are the most esteemed1 as they generally cut in large1 fine flakes2 the north-country cod1 which are caught off the ,orkney ,isles1 are generally very stringy1 or what is commonly called woolly1 and sell at a very inferior price1 but are caught in much greater abundance than the ,dogger cod4 ,the cod are all caught with hook1 and brought alive in well-boats to the ,london markets4 ,the cod cured on the ,dogger-bank is remarkably fine1 and seldom cured above two or three weeks before brought to market2 the barrel cod is commonly cured on the coast of ,scotland and ,yorkshire4 ,there is a great deal of inferior cured salt-fish brought from ,newfoundland and ,iceland4 ,the ,,skull of a ,dogger-bank cod is one of those concatenations of tit-bits which some epicures are fond of1 either baked or boiled3 it is composed of lots of pretty playthings or such finery1 but will not do for those who want a good meal3 it may be bought for about #bs43 either boil it whole1 or cut it into pieces1 flour and dry them1 and then egg and crumb1 and fry them1 or stew it 7,no4 #aeh74 ,the ,,tail of a cod cut in fillets or slices1 and fried1 makes a good dish1 and is generally to be bought at a very reasonable rate2 if boiled1 it is soft and watery4 ,the skull and tail of a cod is a favourite and excellent ,scotch dish1 stewed1 and served up with anchovy or oyster sauce1 with the liquor it is boiled in1 in a tureen4 ,ling is brought to the ,london market in the same manner as cod1 but is very inferior to it1 either fresh or salt4 #agc-99 ,there are several species of codfish sold alive in the ,new-,york markets3 of these1 the common cod is the best1 and is in season from ,november till spring4 ,the price varies from three to six cents the pound1 as the market is well or scantily supplied4 ,the head and shoulders of a large cod1 boiled1 is the best part to grace the dinner-table4 ,it is full of rich gelatinous matter1 which is savoury and easy of digestion4 ,cod's sounds and tongues are found on the stalls of the fishmongers in the winter season4 ,they are rich and nourishing1 and may be prepared to garnish the dish1 or served up separately boiled4 ,a4 #agc- ,in the sea-port towns of the ,new-,england states in ,north ,america1 it has been a custom1 time immemorial1 among people of fashion1 to dine one day in the week 7,saturday7 on salt fish2 and a long habit of preparing the same dish has1 as might have been expected1 led to very considerable improvements in the art of cooking it4 ,i have often heard foreigners declare1 that they never tasted salt fish dressed in such perfection3 the secret of cooking it1 is to keep it for several hours in water that is just scalding hot1 but which is never made actually to boil4--,,count ,,rumford',s #ajth ,essay1 p4 #ah4 #agd-99 ,that part of a cod which is near the tail1 is considered1 in ,america1 as the poorest part of the fish4 ,a4 #agd- ,sturgeons1 though sea-fish1 ascend the fresh water rivers1 and in the ,hudson are taken #hj miles above the salt water4 ,they were formerly called ,albany beef1 having been in plenty and cheap in the market of that city4 ,they are not1 however1 esteemed even there2 and since the running of the steamboats1 and the quickness of their passages1 all the valuable fish of the sea-coast are found in that inland city4 ,a4 #agd- ,the ,french do not flay them1 but split them1 dip them in flour1 and fry them in hot dripping4 #age-99 ,one of my culinary counsellors says1 the heading of this receipt should be1 ,how to dress a good dish of fish while the cloth is laying4 ,if the articles are ready1 twelve minutes will do it1 with very little trouble or expense4 ,for richer stewed fish1 see ,no4 #afd4 #agf-99 ,our experience goes to substantiate the same point4 ,a4 #agi-99 ,the perch of ,new-,york are a small fresh-water fish1 and seldom boiled1 being better calculated for frying or broiling1 as a relish at breakfast4 ,a4 #ahj-99 ,,salmon4 ,the earliest that comes in season to the ,london market is brought from the ,severn1 and begins to come into season the beginning of ,november1 but very few so early1 perhaps not above one in fifty1 as many of them will not shoot their spawn till ,january1 or after1 and then continue in season till ,october1 when they begin to get very thin and poor4 ,the principal supply of salmon is from different parts of ,scotland1 packed in ice1 and brought by water3 if the vessels have a fair wind1 they will be in ,london in three days2 but it frequently happens that they are at sea perhaps a fortnight1 when the greater part of the fish is perished1 and has1 for a year or two past1 sold as low as twopence per pound1 and up to as much as eighteen pence per pound at the same time1 owing to its different degrees of goodness4 ,this accounts for the very low prices at which the itinerant fishmongers cry their delicate salmon1 dainty fresh salmon1 and live cod1 new mackerel1 c4 c4 ,salmon gwilts1 or salmon peel1 are the small salmon which run from about five or six pounds to ten pounds1 are very good fish1 and make handsome dishes of fish1 sent to table crooked in the form of an ,s4 ,berwick trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts1 and are caught in the river ,tweed1 and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt4 ,calvered salmon is the salmon caught in the ,thames1 and cut into slices alive2 and some few salmon are brought from ,oxford to ,london alive1 and cut4 ,a few slices make a handsome1 genteel dish1 but it is generally very expensive2 sometimes #aes4 per pound4 ,fresh salmon comes to the ,new-,york market from the eastern states1 and mostly from ,maine4 ,it is also occasionally brought from the lakes and rivers of the northern part of ,new-,york in winter4 ,a4 #aha-99 ,small fish and fillets of whiting1 turbots1 brills1 c4 and slices of cod1 or the head or tail of it1 are excellent dressed the same way4 #aha- ,the yellow eels taste muddy2 the whiteness of the belly of the fish is not the only mark to know the best2 the right colour of the back is a very bright coppery hue3 the olive-coloured are inferior2 and those tending to a green are worse4 #ahc-99 ,there are several species of mackerel in their season in the ,new-,york market4 ,that which arrives in the spring is most esteemed1 and in greatest plenty4 ,spring mackerel is a migrating fish1 and succeeds the shad1 or commences its run along the coast of ,new-,jersey and ,long ,island1 just before the shad disappears4 ,it does not ascend the rivers1 but continues its course north-eastward in immense shoals1 and is taken by the fishermen with the hook and line1 while sailing in smacks along the coast1 from the mouth of the ,delaware to ,nova ,scotia4 ,these fish are kept in cars1 and sold alive in the markets4 ,they are mostly broiled1 and brought to the breakfast-table4 ,the larger ones sometimes grace the dining-table4 ,they may be boiled1 but are best when stuffed and baked in an oven4 ,a4 #ahc- ,the roe of the male fish is soft1 like the brains of a calf2 that of the female is full of small eggs1 and called hard roe4 #ahd-99 ,mackerel of large size may be stuffed like a fowl1 leaving the head on1 and baked in an oven4 ,a4 #ahg-99 ,lobsters are in great plenty and perfection in the ,new-,york markets4 ,they are taken in ,long ,island ,sound1 and along the rocky shores of ,connecticut1 ,rhode ,island1 and ,massachusetts4 ,a4 #ahh-99 ,crabs are not esteemed as a delicacy by epicures unless they are soft1 when they are fried whole4 ,in ,july and ,august they shed their coats1 and in this state may be cooked and eaten without being incommoded with their shells4 ,a4 #ahi-99 ,oyster sauce1 ,no4 #bgh2 preserved oysters1 ,no4 #bhj4 #ahi- ,those are called common oysters1 which are picked up on the ,french coast1 and laid in the ,colchester beds4 ,these are never so fine and fat as the natives1 and seldom recover the shock their feelings receive from being transported from their native place3 delicate little creatures1 they are as exquisite in their own taste as they are to the taste of others6 #ahi- ,oysters are thus called1 that are born1 as well as bred and fed1 in this country1 and are mostly spit in the ,burnham and ,mersey rivers3 they do not come to their finest condition till they are near four years old4 #ahi- ,,will ,,rabisha1 in his receipt to broil oysters1 7see his ,cookery1 page #add17 directs1 that while they are undergoing this operation1 they should be fed with white wine and grated bread4 ,in ,,boyle',s ,works1 #dto4 #aggb1 vol4 ii4 p4 #dej1 there is a very curious chapter on the eating of oysters4 #aia-99 ,animal food being composed of the most nutritious parts of the food on which the animal lived1 and having already been digested by the proper organs of an animal1 requires only solution and mixture2 whereas vegetable food must be converted into a substance of an animal nature1 by the proper action of our own viscera1 and consequently requires more labour of the stomach1 and other digestive organs4--,,burton on the ,non-naturals1 page #bac4 #aib-99 ,new-,york and other places on the sea-coast of the ,united ,states1 afford oysters in great plenty and perfection1 and the various methods of preparing them are well known4 ,a4 ,,broths1 ,,gravies1 ,,and ,,soups4 ,beef ,broth4#aic-99--7,no4 #ahe47 ,wash a leg or shin of beef very clean1 crack the bone in two or three places 7this you should desire the butcher to do for you71 add thereto any trimmings you have of meat1 game1 or poultry 7i4 e4 heads1 necks1 gizzards1 feet1 c471 and cover them with cold water2 watch and stir it up well from the bottom1 and the moment it begins to simmer1 skim it carefully2 your broth must be perfectly clear and limpid1 on this depends the goodness of the soups1 sauces1 and gravies1 of which it is the basis3 then add some cold water to make the remaining scum rise1 and skim it again2 when the scum is done rising1 and the surface of the broth is quite clear1 put in one moderate-sized carrot1 a head of celery1 two turnips1 and two onions1 it should not have any taste of sweet herbs1 spice1 or garlic1 c42 either of these flavours can easily be added immediately after1 if desired1 by ,nos4 #dbj1 #dba1 #dbb1 c4 cover it close1 set it by the side of the fire1 and let it simmer very gently 7so as not to waste the broth7 for four or five hours1 or more1 according to the weight of the meat2 strain it through a sieve into a clean and dry stone pan1 and set it in the coldest place you have4 ,obs4 ,this is the foundation for all sorts of soups and sauce1 brown or white4 ,stew no longer than the meat is thoroughly done to eat1 and you will obtain excellent broth1 without depriving the meat of its nutritious succulence3 to boil it to rags1 as is the common practice1 will not enrich your broths1 but make them thick and grouty4 ,the meat1#aic- when gently stewed for only four or five hours till it is just tender1 remains abundantly sapid and nourishing1 and will afford a relishing and wholesome meal for half a dozen people2 or make potted beef 7,no4 #ejc73 or when you have strained off the broth1 cover the meat again with water1 and let it go on boiling for four hours longer1 and make what some cooks call second stock2 it will produce some very good glaze1 or portable soup2 see ,no4 #beb1 and the ,obs4 thereon4 ,beef ,gravy4#aid-99--7,no4 #ahf47 ,cover the bottom of a stew-pan that is well tinned and quite clean1 with a slice of good ham1 or lean bacon1 four or five pounds of gravy beef cut into half-pound pieces1 a carrot1 an onion with two cloves stuck in it1 and a head of celery2 put a pint of broth or water to it1 cover it close1 and set it over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to as little as will just save the ingredients from burning2 then turn it all about1 and let it brown slightly and equally all over2 then put in three quarts of boiling water2#aid- when it boils up1 skim it carefully1 and wipe off with a clean cloth what sticks round the edge and inside of the stew-pan1 that your gravy may be delicately clean and clear4 ,set it by the side of a fire1 where it will stew gently 7to keep it clear1 and that it may not be reduced too much7 for about four hours3 if it has not boiled too fast1 there should be two quarts of good gravy2 strain through a silk1 or tamis-sieve2 take very particular care to skim it well1 and set it in a cold place4 ,strong savoury ,gravy 7,no4 #ahh71 alias ,brown ,sauce1 alias ,,grand ,,espagnol4 ,take a stew-pan that will hold four quarts1 lay a slice or two of ham or bacon 7about a quarter of an inch thick7 at the bottom 7undressed is the best71 and two pounds of beef or veal1 a carrot1 a large onion with four cloves stuck in it1 one head of celery1 a bundle of parsley1 lemon-thyme1 and savoury1 about as big round as your little finger1 when tied close1 a few leaves of sweet basil 7one bay-leaf1 and an eschalot1 if you like it71 a piece of lemon-peel1 and a dozen corns of allspice2#aie-99 pour on this half a pint of water1 cover it close1 and let it simmer gently on a slow fire for half an hour1 in which time it will be almost dry2 watch it very carefully1 and let it catch a nice brown colour2 turn the meat1 c4 let it brown on all sides2 add three pints of boiling water1#aie- and boil for a couple of hours4 ,it is now rich gravy4 ,to convert it into ,cullis1 or thickened ,gravy4--7,no4 #ahi47 ,to a quart of gravy1 put a table-spoonful of thickening 7,no4 #beg71 or from one to two table-spoonfuls of flour1 according to the thickness you wish the gravy to be1 into a basin1 with a ladleful of the gravy2 stir it quick2 add the rest by degrees1 till it is all well mixed2 then pour it back into a stew-pan1 and leave it by the side of the fire to simmer for half an hour longer1 that the thickening may thoroughly incorporate with the gravy1 the stew-pan being only half covered1 stirring it every now and then2 a sort of scum will gather on the top1 which it is best not to take off till you are ready to strain it through a tamis4#aie- ,take care it is neither of too pale nor too dark a colour2 if it is not thick enough1 let it stew longer1 till it is reduced to the desired thickness2 or add a bit of glaze1 or portable soup to it1 see ,no4 #beb3 if it is too thick1 you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two of warm broth1 or water4 ,when your sauce is done1 stir it in the basin you put it into once or twice1 while it is cooling4 ,veal ,broth4--7,no4 #aia47 ,a knuckle of veal is best2 manage it as directed in the receipt for beef broth 7,no4 #ahe71 only take care not to let it catch any colour1 as this and the following and richer preparation of veal1 are chiefly used for white soups1 sauces1 c4 ,to make white sauce1 see ,no4 #cfd994 ,veal ,gravy4--7,no4 #aib47 ,about three pounds of the nut of the leg of veal1 cut into half-pound slices1 with a quarter of a pound of ham in small dice2 proceed as directed for the beef gravy 7,no4 #ahf71 but watch the time of putting in the water2 if this is poured in too soon1 the gravy will not have its true flavour1 if it be let alone till the meat sticks too much to the pan1 it will catch too brown a colour4 ,knuckle of ,veal1 or ,shin or ,leg of ,beef1 ,soup4--7,no4 #aic47 ,a knuckle of veal of six pounds weight will make a large tureen of excellent soup1 and is thus easily prepared3 cut half a pound of bacon into slices about half an inch thick1 lay it at the bottom of a soup-kettle1 or deep stew-pan1 and on this place the knuckle of veal1 having first chopped the bone in two or three places2 furnish it with two carrots1 two turnips1 a head of celery1 two large onions1 with two or three cloves stuck in one of them1 a dozen corns of black1 and the same of ,jamaica pepper1 and a good bundle of lemon-thyme1 winter savoury1 and parsley4 ,just cover the meat with cold water1 and set it over a quick fire till it boils2 having skimmed it well1 remove your soup-kettle to the side of the fire2 let it stew very gently till it is quite tender1 i4 e4 about four hours2 then take out the bacon and veal1 strain the soup1 and set it by in a cool place till you want it1 when you must take off the fat from the surface of your liquor1 and decant it 7keeping back the settlings at the bottom7 into a clean pan4 ,if you like a thickened soup1 put three table-spoonfuls of the fat you have taken off the soup into a small stew-pan1 and mix it with four table-spoonfuls of flour1 pour a ladleful of soup to it1 and mix it with the rest by degrees1 and boil it up till it is smooth4 ,cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle and the bacon into mouthfuls1 and put them into the soup1 and let them get warm4 ,obs4 ,you may make this more savoury by adding catchup 7,no4 #dci71 c4 ,shin of beef may be dressed in the same way2 see ,knuckle of ,veal stewed with ,rice 7,no4 #ebc74 ,mutton ,broth4--7,no4 #aid47 ,take two pounds of scrag of mutton2 to take the blood out1 put it into a stew-pan1 and cover it with cold water2 when the water becomes milk-warm1 pour it off2 then put it in four or five pints of water1 with a tea-spoonful of salt1 a table-spoonful of best grits1 and an onion2 set it on a slow fire1 and when you have taken all the scum off1 put in two or three turnips2 let it simmer very slowly for two hours1 and strain it through a clean sieve4 ,this usual method of making mutton broth with the scrag1 is by no means the most economical method of obtaining it2 for which see ,nos4 #dij and #efd4 ,obs4 ,you may thicken broth by boiling with it a little oatmeal1 rice1 ,scotch or pearl barley2 when you make it for a sick person1 read the ,obs4 on ,broths1 c4 in the last page of the #gth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery1 and ,no4 #efd4 ,mock ,mutton ,broth1 without ,meat1 in five minutes4--7,no4 #aie47 ,boil a few leaves of parsley with two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup1 in three-quarters of a pint of very thin gruel#aig-99 7,no4 #egb74 ,season with a little salt4 ,obs4 ,this is improved by a few drops of eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 and the same of essence of sweet herbs 7,no4 #dai74 ,see also ,portable ,soup 7,no4 #beb74 ,the ,queen's ,morning ,bouillon de ,sant1--7,no4 #aif47 ,sir ,kenelm ,digby1 in his ,closet of ,cookery1 p4 #adi1 ,london1 #affi1 informs us1 was made with a brawny hen1 or young cock1 a handful of parsley1 one sprig of thyme1 three of spearmint1 a little balm1 half a great onion1 a little pepper and salt1 and a clove1 with as much water as will cover them2 and this boiled to less than a pint for one good porringerful4 ,ox-heel ,jelly4--7,no4 #aih47 ,slit them in two1 and take away the fat between the claws4 ,the proportion of water to each heel is about a quart3 let it simmer gently for eight hours 7keeping it clean skimmed72 it will make a pint and a half of strong jelly1 which is frequently used to make calves' feet jelly 7,no4 #dha71 or to add to mock turtle and other soups4 ,see ,no4 #bdj994 ,this jelly evaporated1 as directed in ,no4 #beb1 will give about three ounces and a half of strong glaze4 ,an unboiled heel costs one shilling and threepence3 so this glaze1 which is very inferior in flavour to ,no4 #beb1 is quite as expensive as that is4 ,n4,b4 ,to dress the heels1 see ,no4 #ah4 ,obs4 ,get a heel that has only been scalded1 not one of those usually sold at the tripe-shops1 which have been boiled till almost all the gelatine is extracted4 ,clear ,gravy ,soups4--7,no4 #bjj47 ,cut half a pound of ham into slices1 and lay them at the bottom of a large stew-pan or stock-pot1 with two or three pounds of lean beef1 and as much veal2 break the bones1 and lay them on the meat2 take off the outer skin of two large onions and two turnips2 wash1 clean1 and cut into pieces a couple of large carrots1 and two heads of celery2 and put in three cloves and a large blade of mace4 ,cover the stew-pan close1 and set it over a smart fire4 ,when the meat begins to stick to the bottom of the stew-pan1 turn it2 and when there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of the stew-pan1 cover the meat with hot water3 watch it1 and when it is coming to boil put in half a pint of cold water2 take off the scum2 then put in half a pint more cold water1 and skim it again1 and continue to do so till no more scum rises4 ,now set it on one side of the fire to boil gently for about four hours2 strain it through a clean tamis or napkin 7do not squeeze it1 or the soup will be thick7 into a clean stone pan2 let it remain till it is cold1 and then remove all the fat4 ,when you decant it1 be careful not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the pan4 ,the broth should be of a fine amber colour1 and as clear as rock water4 ,if it is not quite so bright as you wish it1 put it into a stew-pan2 break two whites and shells of eggs into a basin2 beat them well together2 put them into the soup3 set it on a quick fire1 and stir it with a whisk till it boils2 then set it on one side of the fire to settle for ten minutes2 run it through a fine napkin into a basin1 and it is ready4 ,however1 if your broth is carefully skimmed1 c4 according to the directions above given1 it will be clear enough without clarifying2 which process impairs the flavour of it in a higher proportion than it improves its appearance4 ,obs4--,this is the basis of almost all gravy soups1 which are called by the name of the vegetables that are put into them4 ,carrots1 turnips1 onions1 celery1 and a few leaves of chervil1 make what is called spring soup1 or soup sant2 to this a pint of green pease1 or asparagus pease1 or ,french beans cut into pieces1 or a cabbage lettuce1 are an improvement4 ,with rice or ,scotch barley1 with macaroni or vermicelli1 or celery1 cut into lengths1 it will be the soup usually called by those names4 ,or turnips scooped round1 or young onions1 will give you a clear turnip or onion soup2 and all these vegetables mixed together1 soup ,,gressi4 ,the gravy for all these soups may be produced extempore with ,no4 #beb4 ,the roots and vegetables you use must be boiled first1 or they will impregnate the soup with too strong a flavour4 ,the seasoning for all these soups is the same1 viz4 salt and a very little ,cayenne pepper4 ,n4,b4 ,to make excellent vegetable gravy soup for #d-a_/b;d4 a quart1 see ,no4 #bbd4 ,scotch ,barley ,broth2--a good and substantial dinner for fivepence per head4--7,no4 #bjd47 ,wash three-quarters of a pound of ,scotch barley in a little cold water2 put it in a soup-pot with a shin or leg of beef1 of about ten pounds weight1 sawed into four pieces 7tell the butcher to do this for you72 cover it well with cold water2 set it on the fire3 when it boils skim it very clean1 and put in two onions of about three ounces weight each2 set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently about two hours2 then skim all the fat clean off1 and put in two heads of celery1 and a large turnip cut into small squares2 season it with salt1 and let it boil an hour and a half longer1 and it is ready3 take out the meat 7carefully with a slice1 and cover it up1 and set it by the fire to keep warm71 and skim the broth well before you put it in the tureen4 s4 d4 ,shin of beef of #ajlbs #b #j #c_/d pound of barley #j #d-a_/b #b onions1 of about #c oz4 weight each #j #j-a_/b ,celery #j #a ,large turnip #j #a ---------- #b #g ,thus you get four quarts of good soup at #h;d4 per quart1 besides another quart to make sauce for the meat1 in the following manner3 ,put a quart of the soup into a basin2 put about an ounce of flour into a stew-pan1 and pour the broth to it by degrees1 stirring it well together2 set it on the fire1 and stir it till it boils2 then 7some put in a glass of port wine1 or mushroom catchup1 ,no4 #dci7 let it boil up1 and it is ready4 ,put the meat in a ragot dish1 and strain the sauce through a sieve over the meat2 you may put to it some capers1 or minced gherkins or walnuts1 c4 ,if the beef has been stewed with proper care in a very gentle manner1 and be taken up at the critical moment when it is just tender1 you will obtain an excellent and savoury meal for eight people for fivepence2 i4 e4 for only the cost of the glass of port wine4 ,if you use veal1 cover the meat with ,no4 #cfd--b4 ,obs4--,this is a most frugal1 agreeable1 and nutritive meal2 it will neither lighten the purse1 nor lie heavy on the stomach1 and will furnish a plentiful and pleasant soup and meat for eight persons4 ,so you may give a good dinner for #e;d4 per head666 ,see also ,nos4 #bbi and #bci4 ,n4,b4 ,if you will draw your purse-strings a little wider1 and allow #a;d4 per mouth more1 prepare a pint of young onions as directed in ,no4 #bif1 and garnish the dish with them1 or some carrots or turnips cut into squares2 and for #f;d4 per head you will have as good a ,,ragout as le ,cuisinier ,imprial de ,france can give you for as many shillings4 ,read ,obs4 to ,no4 #dic4 ,you may vary the flavour by adding a little curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 ragot 7,no4 #deg1 c471 or any of the store sauces and flavouring essences between ,nos4 #cif and #dfc2 you may garnish the dish with split pickled mangoes1 walnuts1 gherkins1 onions1 c4 ,see ,wow wow ,sauce1 ,no4 #cbh4 ,if it is made the evening before the soup is wanted1 and suffered to stand till it is cold1 much fat#bjj-99 may be removed from the surface of the soup1 which is1 when clarified 7,no4 #hc71 useful for all the purposes that drippings are applied to4 ,scotch ,soups4--7,no4 #bje47 ,the three following receipts are the contribution of a friend at ,edinburgh4 ,winter ,hotch-potch4 ,take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton2 cut it into neat chops2 cut four carrots1 and as many turnips into slices2 put on four quarts of water1 with half the carrots and turnips1 and a whole one of each1 with a pound of dried green pease1 which must be put to soak the night before2 let it boil two hours1 then take out the whole carrot and turnip2 bruise and return them2 put in the meat1 and the rest of the carrot and turnip1 some pepper and salt1 and boil slowly three-quarters of an hour2 a short time before serving1 add an onion cut small and a head of celery4 ,cocky-leeky ,soup4 ,take a scrag of mutton1 or shank of veal1 three quarts of water 7or liquor in which meat has been boiled71 and a good-sized fowl1 with two or three leeks cut in pieces about an inch long1 pepper and salt2 boil slowly about an hour3 then put in as many more leeks1 and give it three-quarters of an hour longer3 this is very good1 made of good beef-stock1 and leeks put in it twice4 ,lamb ,stove1 or ,lamb ,stew4 ,take a lamb's head and lights2 open the jaws of the head1 and wash them thoroughly2 put them in a pot with some beef-stock1 made with three quarts of water1 and two pounds of shin of beef1 strained2 boil very slowly for an hour2 wash and string two or three good handfuls of spinach 7or spinage72 put it in twenty minutes before serving2 add a little parsley1 and one or two onions1 a short time before it comes off the fire2 season with pepper and salt1 and serve all together in a tureen4 ,scotch ,brose4--7,no4 #bje9947 ,this favourite ,scotch dish is generally made with the liquor meat has been boiled in4 ,put half a pint of oatmeal into a porringer with a little salt1 if there be not enough in the broth1 of which add as much as will mix it to the consistence of hasty-pudding1 or a little thicker2 lastly1 take a little of the fat that swims on the broth1 and put it on the crowdie1 and eat it in the same way as hasty-pudding4 ,obs4--,this ,scotsman's dish is easily prepared at very little expense1 and is pleasant-tasted and nutritious4 ,to dress a haggies1 see ,no4 #dhh991 and ,minced ,collops1 following it4 ,n4,b4 ,for various methods of making and flavouring oatmeal gruel1 see ,no4 #egb4 ,carrot ,soup4--7,no4 #bab47 ,scrape and wash half a dozen large carrots2 peel off the red outside 7which is the only part used for this soup72 put it into a gallon stew-pan1 with one head of celery1 and an onion1 cut into thin pieces2 take two quarts of beef1 veal1 or mutton broth1 or if you have any cold roast-beef bones 7or liquor1 in which mutton or beef has been boiled71 you may make very good broth for this soup3 when you have put the broth to the roots1 cover the stew-pan close1 and set it on a slow stove for two hours and a half1 when the carrots will be soft enough 7some cooks put in a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs72 boil for two or three minutes2 rub it through a tamis1 or hair-sieve1 with a wooden spoon1 and add as much broth as will make it a proper thickness1 i4 e4 almost as thick as pease soup3 put it into a clean stew-pan2 make it hot2 season it with a little salt1 and send it up with some toasted bread1 cut into pieces half an inch square4 ,some put it into the soup2 but the best way is to send it up on a plate1 as a side-dish4 ,obs4 ,this is neither expensive nor troublesome to prepare4 ,in the kitchens of some opulent epicures1 to make this soup make a little stronger impression on the gustatory organs of grands gourmands1 the celery and onions are sliced1 and fried in butter of a light brown1 the soup is poured into the stew-pan to them1 and all is boiled up together4 ,but this must be done very carefully with butter1 or very nicely clarified fat2 and the grand cuisinier adds spices1 c4 ad libitum4 ,turnip and ,parsnip ,soups1--7,no4 #bac47 ,are made in the same manner as the carrot soup 7,no4 #bab47 ,celery ,soup4--7,no4 #bad47 ,split half a dozen heads of celery into slips about two inches long2 wash them well2 lay them on a hair-sieve to drain1 and put them into three quarts of ,no4 #bjj in a gallon soup-pot2 set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently till the celery is tender 7this will take about an hour74 ,if any scum rises1 take it off2 season with a little salt4 ,obs4 ,when celery cannot be procured1 half a drachm of the seed1 pounded fine1 which may be considered as the essence of celery 7costs only one-third of a farthing1 and can be had at any season71 put in a quarter of an hour before the soup is done1 and a little sugar1 will give as much flavour to half a gallon of soup as two heads of celery weighing seven ounces1 and costing #b;d42 or add a little essence of celery1 ,no4 #dji4 ,green ,pease ,soup4--7,no4 #baf47 ,a peck of pease will make you a good tureen of soup4 ,in shelling them1 put the old ones in one basin1 and the young ones in another1 and keep out a pint of them1 and boil them separately to put into your soup when it is finished3 put a large saucepan on the fire half full of water2 when it boils1 put the pease in1 with a handful of salt2 let them boil till they are done enough1 i4 e4 from twenty to thirty minutes1 according to their age and size2 then drain them in a colander1 and put them into a clean gallon stew-pan1 and three quarts of plain veal or mutton broth 7drawn from meat without any spices or herbs1 c4 which would overpower the flavour of the soup72 cover the stew-pan close1 and set it over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour2 add a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs1 and then rub it through a tamis into another stew-pan2 stir it with a wooden spoon1 and if it is too thick1 add a little more broth3 have ready boiled as for eating1 a pint of young pease1 and put them into the soup2 season with a little salt and sugar4 ,n4,b4 ,some cooks1 while this soup is going on1 slice a couple of cucumbers 7as you would for eating72 take out the seeds2 lay them on a cloth to drain1 and then flour them1 and fry them a light brown in a little butter2 put them into the soup the last thing before it goes to table4 ,obs4 ,if the soup is not green enough1 pound a handful of pea-hulls or spinage1 and squeeze the juice through a cloth into the soup3 some leaves of mint may be added1 if approved4 ,plain green ,pease ,soup without ,meat4--7,no4 #bag47 ,take a quart of green pease 7keep out half a pint of the youngest2 boil them separately1 and put them in the soup when it is finished72 put them on in boiling water2 boil them tender1 and then pour off the water1 and set it by to make the soup with3 put the pease into a mortar1 and pound them to a mash2 then put them into two quarts of the water you boiled the pease in2 stir all well together2 let it boil up for about five minutes1 and then rub it through a hair-sieve or tamis4 ,if the pease are good1 it will be as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need be sent to table4 ,pease ,soup4--7,no4 #bah47 ,the common way of making pease soup#bjc-99 is--to a quart of split pease put three quarts of cold soft water1 not more1 7or it will be what ,jack ,ros-bif calls soup maigre17 notwithstanding ,mother ,glasse orders a gallon 7and her ladyship's directions have been copied by almost every cookery-book maker who has strung receipts together since71 with half a pound of bacon 7not very fat71 or roast-beef bones1 or four anchovies3 or1 instead of the water1 three quarts of the liquor in which beef1 mutton1 pork1 or poultry has been boiled1 tasting it first1 to make sure it is not too salt4#bjd-99 ,wash two heads of celery2#bjd- cut it1 and put it in1 with two onions peeled1 and a sprig of savoury1 or sweet marjoram1 or lemon-thyme2 set it on the trivet1 and let it simmer very gently over a slow fire1 stirring it every quarter of an hour 7to keep the pease from sticking to1 and burning at1 the bottom of the soup-pot7 till the pease are tender1 which will be in about three hours4 ,some cooks now slice a head of celery1 and half an ounce of onions1 and fry them in a little butter1 and put them into the soup till they are lightly browned2 then work the whole through a coarse hair-sieve1 and then through a fine sieve1 or 7what is better7 through a tamis1 with the back of a wooden spoon3 put it into a clean stew-pan1 with half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper2#bjd- let it boil again for ten minutes1 and if any fat arises1 skim it off4 ,send up on a plate1 toasted bread cut into little pieces a quarter of an inch square1 or cut a slice of bread 7that has been baked two days7 into dice1 not more than half an inch square2 put half a pound of perfectly clean drippings or lard into an iron frying-pan2 when it is hot1 fry the bread2 take care and turn it about with a slice1 or by shaking of the pan as it is frying1 that it may be on each side of a delicate light brown1 7,no4 #cai27 take it up with a fish-slice1 and lay it on a sheet of paper to drain the fat3 be careful that this is done nicely3 send these up in one side-dish1 and dried and powdered mint or savoury1 or sweet marjoram1 c4 in another4 ,those who are for a double relish1 and are true lovers of haut got1 may have some bacon cut into small squares like the bread1 and fried till it is crisp1 or some little lumps of boiled pickled pork2 or put cucumber fried into this soup1 as you have directions in ,no4 #baf4 ,obs4 ,the most economical method of making pease soup1 is to save the bones of a joint of roast beef1 and put them into the liquor in which mutton1 or beef1 or pork1 or poultry1 has been boiled1 and proceed as in the above receipt4 ,a hock1 or shank-bone of ham1 a ham-bone1 the root of a tongue1 or a red or pickled herring1 are favourite additions with some cooks2 others send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup4#bje-99 ,n4,b4 ,to make pease soup extempore1 see ,no4 #eee4 ,if you wish to make soup the same day you boil meat or poultry1 prepare the pease the same as for pease pudding 7,no4 #eee71 to which you may add an onion and a head of celery1 when you rub the pease through the sieve2 instead of putting eggs and butter1 add some of the liquor from the pot to make it a proper thickness2 put it on to boil for five minutes1 and it is ready4 ,obs4 ,this latter is by far the easiest and the best way of making pease soup4 ,pease soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate1 without any meat1 by incorporating two ounces of fresh and nicely-clarified beef1 mutton1 or pork drippings 7see ,no4 #hc71 with two ounces of oatmeal1 and mixing this well into the gallon of soup1 made as above directed3 see also ,no4 #bbi4 ,pease ,soup and pickled ,pork4--7,no4 #bbj47 ,a couple of pounds of the belly part of pickled pork will make very good broth for pease soup1 if the pork be not too salt2 if it has been in salt more than two days1 it must be laid in water the night before it is used4 ,put on the ingredients mentioned in ,no4 #bah1 in three quarts of water2 boil gently for two hours1 then put in the pork1 and boil very gently till it is done enough to eat2 this will take about an hour and a half1 or two hours longer1 according to its thickness2 when done1 wash the pork clean in hot water1 send it up in a dish1 or cut it into mouthfuls1 and put it into the soup in the tureen1 with the accompaniments ordered in ,no4 #bah4 ,obs4 ,the meat being boiled no longer than to be done enough to be eaten1 you get excellent soup1 without any expense of meat destroyed4 ,in ,canada1 the inhabitants live three-fourths of the year on pease soup1 prepared with salt pork1 which is boiled till the fat is entirely dissolved among the soup1 giving it a rich flavour4--,the ,hon4 ,j4 ,,cochrane',s ,seaman's ,guide1 #hvo4 #agig1 p4 #ca4 ,plain ,pease ,soup4--7,no4 #bba47 ,to a quart of split pease1 and two heads of celery1 7and most cooks would put a large onion17 put three quarts of broth or soft water2 let them simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours1 stirring up every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning at the bottom of the soup-kettle 7if the water boils away1 and the soup gets too thick1 add some boiling water to it72 when they are well softened1 work them through a coarse sieve1 and then through a fine sieve or a tamis2 wash out your stew-pan1 and then return the soup into it1 and give it a boil up2 take off any scum that comes up1 and it is ready4 ,prepare fried bread1 and dried mint1 as directed in ,no4 #bah1 and send them up with it on two side dishes4 ,obs4 ,this is an excellent family soup1 produced with very little trouble or expense4 ,most of the receipts for pease soup are crowded with ingredients which entirely overpower the flavour of the pease4 ,see ,no4 #eee4 ,asparagus ,soup4--7,no4 #bbb47 ,this is made with the points of asparagus1 in the same manner as the green pease soup 7,no4 #baf or #ag7 is with pease3 let half the asparagus be rubbed through a sieve1 and the other cut in pieces about an inch long1 and boiled till done enough1 and sent up in the soup3 to make two quarts1 there must be a pint of heads to thicken it1 and half a pint cut in2 take care to preserve these green and a little crisp4 ,this soup is sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to common pease soup4 ,obs4 ,some cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a little butter1 and rub it through a sieve1 and add it with the other ingredients2 the haut got of the onion will entirely overcome the delicate flavour of the asparagus1 and we protest against all such combinations4 ,maigre1 or ,vegetable ,gravy ,soup4#bjg-99--7,no4 #bbd47 ,put into a gallon stew-pan three ounces of butter2 set it over a slow fire2 while it is melting1 slice four ounces of onion2 cut in small pieces one turnip1 one carrot1 and a head of celery2 put them in the stewpan1 cover it close1 let it fry till they are lightly browned2 this will take about twenty-five minutes3 have ready1 in a sauce-pan1 a pint of pease1 with four quarts of water2 when the roots in the stew-pan are quite brown1 and the pease come to a boil1 put the pease and water to them2 put it on the fire2 when it boils1 skim it clean1 and put in a crust of bread about as big as the top of a twopenny loaf1 twenty-four berries of allspice1 the same of black pepper1 and two blades of mace2 cover it close1 let it simmer gently for one hour and a half2 then set it from the fire for ten minutes2 then pour it off very gently 7so as not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan7 into a large basin2 let it stand 7about two hours7 till it is quite clear3 while this is doing1 shred one large turnip1 the red part of a large carrot1 three ounces of onion minced1 and one large head of celery cut into small bits2 put the turnips and carrots on the fire in cold water1 let them boil five minutes1 then drain them on a sieve1 then pour off the soup clear into a stew-pan1 put in the roots1 put the soup on the fire1 let it simmer gently till the herbs are tender 7from thirty to forty minutes71 season it with salt and a little ,cayenne1 and it is ready4 ,you may add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci74 ,obs4 ,you will have three quarts of soup1 as well coloured1 and almost as well flavoured1 as if made with gravy meat4 ,n4,b4 ,to make this it requires nearly five hours4 ,to fry the herbs requires twenty-five minutes2 to boil all together1 one hour and a half2 to settle1 at the least1 two hours2 when clear1 and put on the fire again1 half an hour more4 ,,fish ,,soups4--7,no4 #bbe47 ,eel ,soup4 ,to make a tureenful1 take a couple of middling-sized onions1 cut them in half1 and cross your knife over them two or three times2 put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan when it is melted1 put in the onions1 stir them about till they are lightly browned2 cut into pieces three pounds of unskinned eels1 put them into your stew-pan1 and shake them over the fire for five minutes2 then add three quarts of boiling water1 and when they come to a boil1 take the scum off very clean2 then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green leaves 7not dried7 of winter savoury1 the same of lemon thyme1 and twice the quantity of parsley1 two drachms of allspice1 the same of black pepper2 cover it close1 and let it boil gently for two hours2 then strain it off1 and skim it very clean4 ,to thicken it1 put three ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan2 when it is melted1 stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste1 then add the liquor by degrees2 let it simmer for ten minutes1 and pass it through a sieve2 then put your soup on in a clean stew-pan1 and have ready some little square pieces of fish fried of a nice light brown1 either eels1 soles1 plaice1 or skate will do2 the fried fish should be added about ten minutes before the soup is served up4 ,forcemeat balls 7,nos4 #cge1 #cgh1 c47 are sometimes added4 ,obs4 ,excellent fish soups may be made with a cod's skull1 or skate1 or flounders1 c4 boiled in no more water than will just cover them1 and the liquor thickened with oatmeal1 c4 ,cheap ,soups4--7,no4 #bbi47 ,among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for bettering the condition of the poor1 a more useful or extensive charity cannot be devised1 than that of instructing them in economical cookery3 it is one of the most-important objects to which the attention of any real well-wisher to the public interest can possibly be directed4 ,the best and cheapest method of making a nourishing soup1 is least known to those who have most need of it2 it will enable those who have small incomes and large families to make the most of the little they possess1 without pinching their children of that wholesome nourishment which is necessary for the purpose of rearing them up to maturity in health and strength4 ,the labouring classes seldom purchase what are called the coarser pieces of meat1 because they do not know how to dress them1 but lay out their money in pieces for roasting1 c41 of which the bones1 c4 enhance the price of the actual meat to nearly a shilling per pound1 and the diminution of weight by roasting amounts to #cb per cent4 ,this1 for the sake of saving time1 trouble1 and fire1 is generally sent to an oven to be baked2 the nourishing parts are evaporated and dried up1 its weight is diminished nearly one-third1 and all that a poor man can afford to purchase with his week's earnings1 perhaps does not half satisfy the appetites of himself and family for a couple of days4 ,if a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable meal at home1 he soon finds his way to the public-house1 the poor wife contents herself with tea and bread and butter1 and the children are half starved4 ,,dr4 ,,kitchiner',s receipt to make a cheap1 nutritive1 and palatable soup1 fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength1 will open a new source to those benevolent housekeepers who are disposed to relieve the poor2 will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist themselves2 and rescue them from being dependent on the precarious bounty of others1 by teaching them how they may obtain an abundant1 salubrious1 and agreeable aliment for themselves and families1 for one penny per quart4 ,see page #baj4 ,for various economical soups1 see ,nos4 #bjd1 #bci1 #bdj1 #bbd1 #bba1 and ,obs4 to ,nos4 #bdd and #beb1 and ,nos4 #dic and #ejb4 ,obs4 ,dripping intended for soup should be taken out of the pan almost as soon as it has dropped from the meat2 if it is not quite clean1 clarify it4 ,see receipt1 ,no4 #hc4 ,dripping thus prepared is a very different thing from that which has remained in the dripping-pan all the time the meat has been roasting1 and perhaps live coals have dropped into it4#bji-99 ,distributing soup does not answer half so well as teaching people how to make it1 and improve their comfort at home3 the time lost in waiting at the soup-house is seldom less than three hours2 in which time1 by any industrious occupation1 however poorly paid1 they could earn more money than the quart of soup is worth4 ,,dr4 ,,kitchiner',s ,receipt to make a ,gallon of ,barley ,broth for a ,groat4 ,see also ,no4 #bjd4 ,put four ounces of ,scotch barley 7previously washed in cold water71 and four ounces of sliced onions1 into five quarts of water2 boil gently for one hour1 and pour it into a pan2 then put into the saucepan from one to two ounces of clean beef or mutton drippings1 or melted suet1 7to clarify these1 see ,no4 #hc7 or two or three ounces of fat bacon minced2 when melted1 stir into it four ounces of oatmeal2 rub these together till you make a paste 7if this be properly managed1 the whole of the fat will combine with the barley broth1 and not a particle appear on the surface to offend the most delicate stomach72 now add the barley broth1 at first a spoonful at a time1 then the rest by degrees1 stirring it well together till it boils4 ,to season it1 put a drachm of finely-pounded celery1 or cress-seed1 or half a drachm of each1 and a quarter of a drachm of finely-pounded ,cayenne 7,no4 #djd71 or a drachm and a half of ground black pepper1 or allspice1 into a tea-cup1 and mix it up with a little of the soup1 and then pour it into the rest2 stir it thoroughly together2 let it simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer1 season it with salt1 and it is ready4 ,the flavour may be varied by doubling the portion of onions1 or adding a clove of garlic or eschalot1 and leaving out the celery-seed 7,no4 #egb71 or put in shredded roots as in ,no4 #bbd2 or1 instead of oatmeal1 thicken it with ground rice1 or pease1 c41 and make it savoury with fried onions4 ,this preparation1 excellent as it is1 would1 without variety1 soon become less agreeable4 ,nothing so completely disarms poverty of its sting1 as the means of rendering a scanty pittance capable of yielding a comfortable variety4 ,change of flavour is absolutely necessary1 not merely as a matter of pleasure and comfort1 but of health2 toujours perdrix is a true proverb4 ,this soup will be much improved1 if1 instead of water1 it be made with the liquor meat has been boiled in2 at tripe1 cow-heel1 and cook-shops1 this may be had for little or nothing4 ,this soup has the advantage of being very soon and easily made1 with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room2 those who have not tasted it1 cannot imagine what a savoury and satisfying meal is produced by the combination of these cheap and homely ingredients4 ,if the generally-received opinion be true1 that animal and vegetable foods afford nourishment in proportion to the quantity of oil1 jelly1 and mucilage1 that can be extracted from them1 this soup has strong claims to the attention of rational economists4 ,craw-fish ,soup4--7,no4 #bce47 ,this soup is sometimes made with beef1 or veal broth1 or with fish1 in the following manner3 ,take flounders1 eels1 gudgeons1 c41 and set them on to boil in cold water2 when it is pretty nigh boiling1 skim it well2 and to three quarts put in a couple of onions1 and as many carrots cut to pieces1 some parsley1 a dozen berries of black and ,jamaica pepper1 and about half a hundred craw-fish2 take off the small claws and shells of the tails2 pound them fine1 and boil them with the broth about an hour2 strain off1 and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it1 and1 if you can get it1 the spawn of a lobster2 pound it1 and put it to the soup2 let it simmer very gently for a couple of minutes2 put in your craw-fish to get hot1 and the soup is ready4 ,obs4--,one of my predecessors recommends craw-fish pounded alive1 to sweeten the sharpness of the blood4 ,vide ,,clermont',s ,cookery1 p4 #e1 ,london1 #aggf4 ,un des grands hommes de bouche de ,france says1 ,un bon coulis d'ecrevisses est le paradis sur la terre1 et digne de la table des dieux2 and of all the tribe of shell-fish1 which our industry and our sensuality bring from the bottom of the sea1 the river1 or the pond1 the craw-fish is incomparably the most useful and the most delicious4 ,lobster ,soup4--7,no4 #bcg47 ,you must have three fine lively#baa-99 young hen lobsters1 and boil them1 see ,no4 #agf2 when cold1 split the tails2 take out the fish1 crack the claws1 and cut the meat into mouthfuls3 take out the coral1 and soft part of the body2 bruise part of the coral in a mortar2 pick out the fish from the chines2 beat part of it with the coral1 and with this make forcemeat balls1 finely-flavoured with mace or nutmeg1 a little grated lemon-peel1 anchovy1 and ,cayenne2 pound these with the yelk of an egg4 ,have three quarts of veal broth2 bruise the small legs and the chine1 and put them into it1 to boil for twenty minutes1 then strain it2 and then to thicken it1 take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a little butter and flour2 rub it through a sieve1 and add it to the soup with the meat of the lobsters1 and the remaining coral2 let it simmer very gently for ten minutes2 do not let it boil1 or its fine red colour will immediately fade2 turn it into a tureen2 add the juice of a good lemon1 and a little essence of anchovy4 ,soup and ,bouilli4--7,no4 #bch4 ,see also ,no4 #e47 ,the best parts for this purpose are the leg or shin1 or a piece of the middle of a brisket of beef1 of about seven or eight pounds weight2 lay it on a fish-drainer1 or when you take it up put a slice under it1 which will enable you to place it on the dish entire2 put it into a soup-pot or deep stew-pan1 with cold water enough to cover it1 and a quart over2 set it on a quick fire to get the scum up1 which remove as it rises2 then put in two carrots1 two turnips1 two leeks1 or two large onions1 two heads of celery1 two or three cloves1 and a fagot of parsley and sweet herbs2 set the pot by the side of the fire to simmer very gently1 till the meat is just tender enough to eat3 this will require about four or five hours4 ,put a large carrot1 a turnip1 a large onion1 and a head or two of celery1 into the soup whole2 take them out as soon as they are done enough2 lay them on a dish till they are cold2 then cut them into small squares3 when the beef is done1 take it out carefully3 to dish it up1 see ,no4 #bjd1 or ,no4 #dic3 strain the soup through a hair-sieve into a clean stew-pan2 take off the fat1 and put the vegetables that are cut into the soup1 the flavour of which you may heighten by adding a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup4 ,if a thickened soup is preferred1 take four large table-spoonfuls of the clear fat from the top of the pot1 and four spoonfuls of flour2 mix it smooth together2 then by degrees stir it well into the soup1 which simmer for ten minutes longer at least2 skim it well1 and pass it through a tamis1 or fine sieve1 and add the vegetables and seasoning the same as directed in the clear soup4 ,keep the beef hot1 and send it up 7as a remove to the soup7 with finely-chopped parsley sprinkled on the top1 and a sauce-boat of ,no4 #cbh4 ,ox-head ,soup1--7,no4 #bci47 ,should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten1 as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold3 therefore1 the day before you want this soup1 put half an ox-cheek into a tub of cold water to soak for a couple of hours2 then break the bones that have not been broken at the butcher's1 and wash it very well in warm water2 put it into a pot1 and cover it with cold water2 when it boils1 skim it very clean1 and then put in one head of celery1 a couple of carrots1 a turnip1 two large onions1 two dozen berries of black pepper1 same of allspice1 and a bundle of sweet herbs1 such as marjoram1 lemon-thyme1 savoury1 and a handful of parsley2 cover the soup-pot close1 and set it on a slow fire2 take off the scum1 which will rise when it is coming to a boil1 and set it by the fireside to stew very gently for about three hours2 take out the head1 lay it on a dish1 pour the soup through a fine sieve into a stone-ware pan1 and set it and the head by in a cool place till the next day3 then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls1 skim and strain off the broth1 put two quarts of it and the meat into a clean stew-pan1 let it simmer very gently for half an hour longer1 and it is ready4 ,if you wish it thickened 7which we do not recommend1 for the reasons given in the #gth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery71 put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 throw in as much flour as will dry it up2 when they are all well mixed together1 and browned by degrees1 pour to this your soup1 and stir it well together2 let it simmer for half an hour longer2 strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean stew-pan1 and put to it the meat of the head2 let it stew half an hour longer1 and season it with ,cayenne pepper1 salt1 and a glass of good wine1 or a table-spoonful of brandy4 ,see ,ox-cheek stewed1 ,no4 #ejg4 ,obs4--,those who wish this soup still more savoury1 c4 for the means of making it so1 we refer to ,no4 #bdg4 ,n4,b4 ,this is an excellent and economical soup4 ,see also ,nos4 #bjd and #bbi4 ,if you serve it as soup for a dozen people1 thicken one tureen1 and send up the meat in that2 and send up the other as a clear gravy soup1 with some of the carrots and turnips shredded1 or cut into shapes4 ,ox-tail ,soup4--7,no4 #bdj47 ,three tails1 costing about #g;d4 each1 will make a tureen of soup 7desire the butcher to divide them at the joints72 lay them to soak in warm water1 while you get ready the vegetables4 ,put into a gallon stew-pan eight cloves1 two or three onions1 half a drachm of allspice1 and the same of black pepper1 and the tails2#bad-99 cover them with cold water2 skim it carefully1 when and as long as you see any scum rise2 then cover the pot as close as possible1 and set it on the side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat becomes tender and will leave the bones easily1 because it is to be eaten with a spoon1 without the assistance of a knife or fork2 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bdd2 this will require about two hours3 mind it is not done too much3 when perfectly tender1 take out the meat and cut it off the bones1 in neat mouthfuls2 skim the broth1 and strain it through a sieve2 if you prefer a thickened soup1 put flour and butter1 as directed in the preceding receipt2 or put two table-spoonfuls of the fat you have taken off the broth into a clean stew-pan1 with as much flour as will make it into a paste2 set this over the fire1 and stir them well together2 then pour in the broth by degrees1 stirring it1 and mixing it with the thickening2 let it simmer for another half hour1 and when you have well skimmed it1 and it is quite smooth1 then strain it through a tamis into a clean stew-pan1 put in the meat1 with a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 a glass of wine1 and season it with salt4 ,for increasing the piquance of this soup1 read ,no4 #bdg4 ,obs4--,see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bdd2 if the meat is cut off the bones1 you must have three tails for a tureen1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bdd3 some put an ox-cheek or tails in an earthen pan1 with all the ingredients as above1 and send them to a slow oven for five or six hours4 ,to stew ox-tails1 see ,no4 #eca4 ,ox-heel ,soup1--7,no4 #bdj9947 ,must be made the day before it is to be eaten4 ,procure an ox-heel undressed1 or only scalded 7not one that has been already boiled1 as they are at the tripe-shops1 till almost all the gelatinous parts are extracted71 and two that have been boiled as they usually are at the tripe-shops4 ,cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls1 and set it by on a plate2 put the trimmings and bones into a stew-pan1 with three quarts of water1 and the unboiled heel cut into quarters2 furnish a stew-pan with two onions1 and two turnips pared and sliced2 pare off the red part of a couple of large carrots1 add a couple of eschalots cut in half1 a bunch of savoury or lemon-thyme1 and double the quantity of parsley2 set this over1 or by the side of a slow1 steady fire1 and keep it closely covered and simmering very gently 7or the soup liquor will evaporate7 for at least seven hours3 during which1 take care to remove the fat and scum that will rise to the surface of the soup1 which must be kept as clean as possible4 ,now strain the liquor through a sieve1 and put two ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan2 when it is melted1 stir into it as much flour as will make it a stiff paste2 add to it by degrees the soup liquor2 give it a boil up2 strain it through a sieve1 and put in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible1 and a couple of bay-leaves1 and the meat of the boiled heels2 let it go on simmering for half an hour longer1 i4 e4 till the meat is tender4 ,put in the juice of a lemon1 a glass of wine1 and a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 and the soup is ready for the tureen4 ,obs4 ,those who are disposed to make this a more substantial dish1 may introduce a couple of sets of goose or duck giblets1 or ox-tails1 or a pound of veal cutlets1 cut into mouthfuls4 ,hare1 ,rabbit1 or ,partridge ,soup4--7,no4 #bda47 ,an old hare1 or birds1 when so tough as to defy the teeth in any other form1 will make very good soup4 ,cut off the legs and shoulders2 divide the body crossways1 and stew them very gently in three quarts of water1 with one carrot1 about one ounce of onion1 with four cloves1 two blades of pounded mace1 twenty-four black peppers1 and a bundle of sweet herbs1 till the hare is tender 7most cooks add to the above a couple of slices of ham or bacon1 and a bay leaf1 c41 but my palate and purse both plead against such extravagance2 the hare makes sufficiently savoury soup without them73 the time this will take depends very much upon its age1 and how long it has been kept before it is dressed3 as a general rule1 about three hours3 in the mean time1 make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls 7as big as nutmegs7 of ,no4 #cgi2 when the hare is quite tender1 take the meat off the back1 and the upper joint of the legs2 cut it into neat mouthfuls1 and lay it aside2 cut the rest of the meat off the legs1 shoulders1 c41 mince it and pound it in a mortar1 with an ounce of butter1 and two or three table-spoonfuls of flour moistened with a little soup2 rub this through a hair-sieve1 and put it into the soup to thicken it2 let it simmer slowly half an hour longer1 skimming it well2 put it through the tamis into the pan again2 and put in the meat with a glass of claret or port wine1 and a table-spoonful of currant jelly to each quart of soup2 season it with salt1 put in the forcemeat balls1 and when all is well warmed1 the soup is ready4 ,obs4 ,cold roast hare will make excellent soup4 ,chop it in pieces1 and stew it in water 7according to the quantity of hare7 for about an hour1 and manage it as in the above receipt3 the stuffing of the hare will be a substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning4 ,n4,b4 ,this soup may be made with mock hare1 see ,no4 #ff4 ,game ,soup4--7,no4 #bdb47 ,in the game season1 it is easy for a cook to give her master a very good soup at a very little expense1 by taking all the meat off the breasts of any cold birds which have been left the preceding day1 and pounding it in a mortar1 and beating to pieces the legs and bones1 and boiling them in some broth for an hour4 ,boil six turnips2 mash them1 and strain them through a tamis-cloth with the meat that has been pounded in a mortar2 strain your broth1 and put a little of it at a time into the tamis to help you to strain all of it through4 ,put your soup-kettle near the fire1 but do not let it boil3 when ready to dish your dinner1 have six yelks of eggs mixed with half a pint of cream2 strain through a sieve2 put your soup on the fire1 and as it is coming to boil1 put in the eggs1 and stir well with a wooden spoon3 do not let it boil1 or it will curdle4 ,goose or ,duck ,giblet ,soup4#baf-99--7,no4 #bdd47 ,scald and pick very clean a couple sets of goose1 or four of duck giblets 7the fresher the better72 wash them well in warm water1 in two or three waters2 cut off the noses and split the heads2 divide the gizzards and necks into mouthfuls4 ,if the gizzards are not cut into pieces before they are done enough1 the rest of the meat1 c4 will be done too much2 and knives and forks have no business in a soup-plate4 ,crack the bones of the legs1 and put them into a stew-pan2 cover them with cold water3 when they boil1 take off the scum as it rises2 then put in a bundle of herbs1 such as lemon-thyme1 winter savoury1 or marjoram1 about three sprigs of each1 and double the quantity of parsley1 an onion1 twenty berries of allspice1 the same of black pepper2 tie them all up in a muslin bag1 and set them to stew very gently till the gizzards are tender3 this will take from an hour and a half to two hours1 according to the size and age of the giblets3 take them up with a skimmer1 or a spoon full of holes1 put them into the tureen1 and cover down close to keep warm till the soup is ready4 ,to thicken the soup4 ,melt an ounce and a half of butter in a clean stew-pan2 stir in as much flour as will make it into a paste2 then pour to it by degrees a ladleful of the giblet liquor2 add the remainder by degrees2 let it boil about half an hour1 stirring it all the while for fear it should burn2 skim it1 and strain it through a fine sieve into a basin2 wash out the stew-pan2 then return the soup into it1 and season it with a glass of wine1 a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 and a little salt2 let it have one boil up2 and then put the giblets in to get hot1 and the soup is ready4 ,obs4 ,thus managed1 one set of goose1 or two of duck giblets 7which latter may sometimes be had for #c;d471 will make a quart of healthful1 nourishing soup3 if you think the giblets alone will not make the gravy savoury enough1 add a pound of beef or mutton1 or bone of a knuckle of veal1 and heighten its piquance by adding a few leaves of sweet basil1 the juice of half a ,seville orange or lemon1 and half a glass of wine1 and a little of ,no4 #cdc99 to each quart of soup4 ,those who are fond of forcemeat may slip the skin off the neck1 and fill it with ,no4 #cgh2 tie up the other end tight2 put it into the soup about half an hour before you take it up1 or make some nice savoury balls of the duck stuffing1 ,no4 #fa4 ,obs4 ,bespeak the giblets a couple of days before you desire to have them3 this is a favourite soup when the giblets are done till nicely tender1 but yet not overboiled4 ,giblets may be had from ,july to ,january2 the fresher they are the better4 ,n4,b4 ,this is rather a family-dish than a company one2 the bones cannot be well picked without the help of alive pincers4 ,since ,tom ,coryat introduced forks1 ,a4 ,d4 #afdb1 it has not been the fashion to put pickers and stealers into soup4 ,mock ,mock ,turtle1--7,no4 #bde47 ,as made by ,elizabeth ,lister 7late cook to ,dr4 ,kitchiner71 bread and biscuit baker1 ,no4 #f ,salcombe ,place1 ,york ,terrace1 ,regent's ,park4 ,goes out to dress dinners on reasonable terms4 ,line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints1 with an ounce of nice lean bacon or ham1 a pound and a half of lean gravy beef1 a cow-heel1 the inner rind of a carrot1 a sprig of lemons-thyme1 winter savoury1 three times the quantity of parsley1 a few green leaves of sweet basil1#bah-99 and two eschalots2 put in a large onion1 with four cloves stuck in it1 eighteen corns of allspice1 the same of black pepper2 pour on these a quarter of a pint of cold water1 cover the stew-pan1 and set it on a slow fire1 to boil gently for a quarter of an hour2 then1 for fear the meat should catch1 take off the cover1 and watch it2 and when it has got a good brown colour1 fill up the stew-pan with boiling water1 and let it simmer very gently for two hours3 if you wish to have the full benefit of the meat1 only stew it till it is just tender1 cut it into mouthfuls1 and put it into the soup4 ,to thicken it1 pour two or three table-spoonfuls of flour1 a ladleful of the gravy1 and stir it quick till it is well mixed2 pour it back into the stew-pan where the gravy is1 and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer2 skim it1 and then strain it through a tamis into the stew-pan3 cut the cow-heel into pieces about an inch square1 squeeze through a sieve the juice of a lemon1 a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 a tea-spoonful of salt1 half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper1 as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence1 and a glass of ,madeira or sherry wine2 let it all simmer together for five minutes longer4 ,forcemeat or egg balls may be added if you please2 you will find a receipt for these1 ,no4 #chj1 c4 99499 ,a pound of veal cutlets1 or the belly part of pickled pork1 or nice double tripe cut into pieces about an inch square1 and half an inch thick1 and rounded and trimmed neatly from all skin1 gristle1 c4 and stewed till they are tender1 will be a great addition4 ,mock ,turtle1--7,no4 #bdg47 ,is the bonne bouche which the officers of the mouth of old ,england#bai-99 prepare1 when they choose to rival les grands cuisiniers de ,france in a ragot sans pareil4 ,the following receipt is an attempt 7and the committee of taste pronounced it a successful one71 to imitate the excellent and generally approved mock turtle made by ,messrs4 ,birch1 ,cornhill4 ,endeavour to have the head and the broth ready for the soup1#bai- the day before it is to be eaten4 ,it will take eight hours to prepare it properly4 hours4 ,cleaning and soaking the head #a ,to parboil it to cut up #a ,cooling1 nearly #a ,making the broth and finishing the soup #e --- #h ,get a calf's head with the skin on 7the fresher the better72 take out the brains1 wash the head several times in cold water1 let it soak for about an hour in spring-water1 then lay it in a stew-pan1 and cover it with cold water1 and half a gallon over2 as it becomes warm1 a great deal of scum will rise1 which must be immediately removed2 let it boil gently for one hour1 take it up1 and when almost cold1 cut the head into pieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter1 and the tongue into mouthfuls1 or rather make a side-dish of the tongue and brains1 as in ,no4 #aj4 ,when the head is taken out1 put in the stock meat1#bai- about five pounds of knuckle of veal1 and as much beef2 add to the stock all the trimmings and bones of the head1 skim it well1 and then cover it close1 and let it boil five hours 7reserve a couple of quarts of this to make gravy sauces1 c4 see ,no4 #cjg72 then strain it off1 and let it stand till the next morning2 then take off the fat1 set a large stew-pan on the fire with half a pound of good fresh butter1 twelve ounces of onions sliced1 and four ounces of green sage2 chop it a little2 let these fry one hour2 then rub in half a pound of flour1 and by degrees add your broth till it is the thickness of cream2 season it with a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and half an ounce of black pepper ground very fine1 salt to your taste1 and the rind of one lemon peeled very thin2 let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half1 then strain it through a hair-sieve2 do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve1 or it will make it grouty2 if it does not run through easily1 knock your wooden-spoon against the side of your sieve2 put it in a clean stew-pan with the head1 and season it by adding to each gallon of soup half a pint of wine2 this should be ,madeira1 or1 if you wish to darken the colour of your soup1 claret1 and two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice1 see ,no4 #djg992 let it simmer gently till the meat is tender2 this may take from half an hour to an hour3 take care it is not over-done2 stir it frequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan1 and when the meat is quite tender the soup is ready4 ,a head weighing twenty pounds1 and ten pounds of stock meat1 will make ten quarts of excellent soup1 besides the two quarts of stock you have put by for made dishes1 c4 ,obs4 ,if there is more meat on the head than you wish to put in the soup1 prepare it for a pie1 and1 with the addition of a calf's foot boiled tender1 it will make an excellent ragot pie2 season it with zest1 and a little minced onion1 put in half a tea-cupful of stock1 cover it with puff paste1 and bake it one hour3 when the soup comes from table1 if there is a deal of meat and no soup1 put it into a pie-dish1 season it a little1 and add some little stock to it2 then cover it with paste1 bake it one hour1 and you have a good mock turtle pie4 ,this soup was eaten by the committee of taste with unanimous applause1 and they pronounced it a very satisfactory substitute#bbj-99 for the far-fetch'd and dear-bought turtle2 which is entirely indebted for its title of sovereign of savouriness1 to the rich soup with which it is surrounded4 ,without its paraphernalia of subtle double relishes1 a starved turtle1 has not more intrinsic sapidity than a fatted calf4 ,friendly reader1 it is really neither half so wholesome1 nor half so toothsome4 ,see ,essence of ,turtle1 ,no4 #cdc991 and ,obs4 to ,no4 #dic4 ,to warm this soup1 see ,no4 #dhe4 ,to season it1 to each gallon of soup put two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice1 see ,no4 #djg991 same of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 and one of essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 half a pint of wine 7this should be ,madeira1 or1 if you wish to darken the colour of your soup1 claret71 a tea-spoonful of curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 or a quarter of a drachm of ,cayenne1 and the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible2 let it simmer five minutes more1 take out the lemon-peel1 and the soup is ready for the tureen4 ,while the soup is doing1 prepare for each tureen a dozen and a half of mock turtle forcemeat balls 7to make these1 see ,no4 #cge or ,no4 #cgf1 ,no4 #cij to ,no4 #cif72 we prefer the stuffing ordered in ,no4 #fa1 and a dozen egg balls2 and put them into the tureen4 ,brain balls1 or cakes1 are a very elegant addition1 and are made by boiling the brains for ten minutes1 then putting them in cold water1 and cutting them into pieces about as big as a large nutmeg2 take savoury1 or lemon-thyme dried and finely-powdered1 nutmeg grated1 and pepper and salt1 and pound them all together2 beat up an egg1 dip the brains in it1 and then roll them in this mixture1 and make as much of it as possible stick to them2 dip them in the egg again1 and then in finely-grated and sifted bread-crumbs2 fry them in hot fat1 and send them up as a side-dish4 ,a veal sweetbread1 prepared as in ,no4 #hi1 not too much done or it will break1 cut into pieces the same size as you cut the calf's head1 and put in the soup1 just to get warm before it goes to table1 is a superb bonne bouche2 and pickled tongue1 stewed till very tender1 and cut into mouthfuls1 is a favourite addition4 ,we order the meat to be cut into mouthfuls1 that it may be eaten with a spoon3 the knife and fork have no business in a soup-plate4 99499 ,some of our culinary contemporaries order the haut got of this 7as above directed1 sufficiently relishing7 soup to be combustibled and bedevilled with a copious addition of anchovies1 mushrooms1 truffles1 morelles1 curry-powder1 artichoke bottoms1 salmon's head and liver1 or the soft part of oysters or lobsters1 soles cut in mouthfuls1 a bottle of ,madeira1 a pint of brandy1 c42 and to complete their surfeiting and burn-gullet olio1 they put in such a tremendous quantity of ,cayenne pepper1 that only a fire-proof palate1 lined with asbestos1 or indurated by ,indian diet1 can endure it4 ,see note under ,no4 #dic4 ,n4,b4 ,in helping this soup1 the distributer of it should serve out the meat1 forcemeat1 and gravy1 in equal parts2 however trifling or needless this remark may appear1 the writer has often suffered from the want of such a hint being given to the soup-server1 who has sometimes sent a plate of mere gravy without meat1 at others1 of meat without gravy1 and sometimes scarcely any thing but forcemeat balls4 ,obs4 ,this is a delicious soup1 within the reach of those who eat to live2 but if it had been composed expressly for those who only live to eat1 ,i do not know how it could have been made more agreeable3 as it is1 the lover of good eating will wish his throat a mile long1 and every inch of it palate4 ,n4,b4 ,cucumber in a side-plate is a laudable vegetable accompaniment4 ,english ,turtle4--7,no4 #bdh47 ,see ,no4 #ejb4 ,a-la-mode beef4 ,curry1 or ,mullaga-tawny#bbb-99 ,soup4--7,no4 #bdi47 ,cut four pounds of a breast of veal into pieces1 about two inches by one2 put the trimmings into a stew-pan with two quarts of water1 with twelve corns of black pepper1 and the same of allspice2 when it boils1 skim it clean1 and let it boil an hour and a half1 then strain it off2 while it is boiling1 fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of veal and four onions2 when they are done1 put the broth to them2 put it on the fire2 when it boils1 skim it clean2 let it simmer half an hour2 then mix two spoonfuls of curry1 and the same of flour1 with a little cold water and a tea-spoonful of salt2 add these to the soup1 and simmer it gently till the veal is quite tender1 and it is ready2 or bone a couple of fowls or rabbits1 and stew them in the manner directed above for the veal1 and you may put in a bruised eschalot1 and some mace and ginger1 instead of black pepper and allspice4 ,obs4 ,read ,no4 #dig4 ,turtle#bbc-99 ,soup4--7,no4 #bej47 ,as it is our wish that this work should be given to the public at the lowest possible price1 the receipt for dressing a turtle is taken out1 as a professed cook is always hired for the purpose of dressing it4 ,the space this long receipt occupied is now filled with directions for making useful pickles4 ,see ,no4 #dfb4 ,portable#bbc- ,soup1 or ,glaze4--7,no4 #beb47 ,desire the butcher to break the bones of a leg or a shin of beef1 of ten pounds weight 7the fresher killed the better72 put it into a soup-pot 7a digester#bbc- is the best utensil for this purpose7 that will well hold it2 just cover it with cold water1 and set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly boils 7this should be at least an hour72 skim it attentively while any scum rises2 pour in a little cold water1 to throw up the scum that may remain2 let it come to a boil again1 and again skim it carefully3 when no more scum rises1 and the broth appears clear 7put in neither roots1 nor herbs1 nor salt71 let it boil for eight or ten hours1 and then strain it through a hair-sieve into a brown stone pan2 set the broth where it will cool quickly2 put the meat into a sieve1 let it drain1 make potted beef 7,no4 #ejc71 or it will be very acceptable to many poor families4 ,next day remove every particle of fat from the top of it1 and pour it through a tamis1 or fine sieve1 as quietly as possible1 into a stew-pan1 taking care not to let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the stew-pan1 which should be of thick copper1 perfectly well tinned2 add a quarter of an ounce of whole black pepper to it2 let it boil briskly1 with the stew-pan uncovered1 on a quick fire2 if any scum rises1 take it off with a skimmer3 when it begins to thicken1 and is reduced to about a quart1 put it into a smaller stew-pan2 set it over a gentler fire1 till it is reduced to the thickness of a very thick syrup2 take care that it does not burn1 a moment's inattention now will lose you all your labour1 and the soup will be spoiled3 take a little of it out in a spoon and let it cool2 if it sets into a strong jelly1 it is done enough2 if it does not1 boil it a little longer till it does2 have ready some little pots1 such as are used for potted meats1 about an inch and a half deep1 taking care that they are quite dry2 we recommend it to be kept in these pots1 if it is for home consumption 7the less it is reduced1 the better is the flavour of the soup71 if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep for six months2 if you wish to preserve it longer1 put it into such bladders as are used for ,german sausages1 or if you prefer it in the form of cakes1 pour it into a dish about a quarter of an inch deep2 when it is cold1 turn it out and weigh the cake1 and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces of half an ounce and an ounce each2 place them in a warm room1 and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly dried2 this will take a week or ten days2 turn them twice a day2 when well hardened1 and kept in a dry place1 they may be preserved for several years in any climate4 ,this extract of meat makes excellent tablettes de ,bouillon1 for those who are obliged to endure long fasting4 ,if the surface becomes mouldy1 wipe it with a little warm water2 the mouldy taste does not penetrate the mass4 ,if1 after several days' drying1 it does not become so hard as you wish1 put it into a bainmarie stew-pan1 or milk-boiler1 till it is evaporated to the consistence you wish2 or1 set the pots in a cool oven1 or in a cheese-toaster1 at a considerable distance from the fire3 this is the only safe way of reducing it very much1 without the risk of its burning1 and acquiring an extremely disagreeable1 acrid flavour1 c4 ,obs4 ,the uses of this concentrated essence of meat are numerous4 ,it is equally economical and convenient for making extempore broths enumerated in the ,obs4 to ,no4 #bjj1 sauces and gravies for hashed or stewed meat1 game1 or poultry1 c4 ,you may thicken it and flavour it as directed in ,no4 #cbi2 to make gravy1 sauces1 c4 take double the quantity ordered for broth4 ,if you have time and opportunity1 as there is no seasoning in the soup1 either of roots1 herbs1 or spice1 boil an onion with or without a bit of parsley and sweet herbs1 and a few corns of allspice1 or other spice1 in the water you melt the soup in1 which may be flavoured with mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 essence of sweet herbs 7,no4 #dag71 savoury spice 7,no4 #dba1 or ,no4 #deg71 essence of celery 7,no4 #dji71 c4 or zest 7,no4 #bee72 these may be combined in the proportions most agreeable to the palate of the eater1 and are as portable as portable soup1 for a very small portion will flavour a pint4 ,the editor adds nothing to the solution of this soup1 but a very little ground black pepper and some salt4 ,n4,b4 ,if you are a careful manager1 you need not always purchase meat on purpose to make this2 when you dress a large dinner1 you can make glaze at very small cost1 by taking care of the trimmings and parings of the meat1 game1 and poultry1 you use3 wash them well1 put them into a stew-pan1 cover them with the liquor you have boiled meat in1 and proceed as in the above receipt2 and see ,obs4 on ,no4 #ahe4 ,,mem4 ,this portable soup is a most convenient article in cookery2 especially in small families1 where it will save a great deal of time and trouble4 ,it is also economical1 for no more will be melted than is wanted2 so there is no waste4 ,nine pounds of neck of beef1 costing #bs4 #g-a_/b;d4 produced nine ounces of very nice soup2 the bones1 when boiled1 weighed ten ounces4 ,half an ox-cheek1 costing #as4 #i;d4 and weighing #ad-c_/d pounds1 produced thirteen ounces2 but not so firm or clear1 and far inferior in flavour to that obtained from a shin of beef4 ,a sheep's head1 costing #i;d41 produced three ounces and a half4 ,two pounds of lean meat1 from the blade-bone of beef1 produced hardly an ounce4 ,the addition of an ounce of gum arabic1 and two ounces of isinglass1 to four ounces of the extract from a leg of beef1 considerably diminished the consistence of the mass1 without adding to its bulk4 ,it has been thought that the portable soup which is manufactured for sale1 is partly made with ox-heels2 but the experiment 7,no4 #aih7 proves this cannot be1 as an ounce of the jelly from ox-heel costs #e;d4 ,for the cheapest method of procuring a hard jelly1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #dha2 nineteen bones1 costing #d-a_/b;d4 produced three ounces3 almost as cheap as ,salisbury glue4 ,a knuckle of veal1 weighing #d-c_/d pounds1 and costing #bs4 #d;d4 produced five ounces4 ,a shin of beef1 weighing nine pounds1 and costing #as4 #aj-a_/b;d4 produced nine ounces of concentrated soup1 sufficiently reduced to keep for several months4 ,after the boiling1 the bones in this joint weighed two pounds and a quarter1 and the meat two pounds and a quarter4 ,the result of these experiments is1 that the product from legs and shins of beef was almost as large in quantity1 and of much superior quality and flavour1 as that obtained from any of the other materials2 the flavour of the product from mutton1 veal1 c4 is comparatively insipid4 ,as it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality1 and we could not find any proper and circumstantial directions for making it1 which1 on trial1 answered the purpose1 and it is really a great acquisition to the army and navy1 to travellers1 invalids1 c4 the editor has bestowed some time1 c4 in endeavouring to learn1 and to teach1 how it may be prepared in the easiest1 most economical1 and perfect manner4 ,the ordinary selling price is from #ajs4 to #abs41 but you may make it according to the above receipt for #cs4 #f;d4 per pound1 i4 e4 for #b-a_/b;d4 per ounce1 which will make you a pint of broth4 ,those who do not regard the expense1 and like the flavour1 may add the lean of ham1 in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of leg of beef4 ,it may also be flavoured1 by adding to it1 at the time you put the broth into the smaller stew-pan1 mushroom catchup1 eschalot wine1 essences of spice or herbs1 c42 we prefer it quite plain2 it is then ready to be converted1 in an instant1 into a basin of beef tea1 for an invalid1 and any flavour may be immediately communicated to it by the magazine of taste 7,no4 #dfb74 ,to clarify ,broth or ,gravy4--7,no4 #beb9947 ,put on the broth in a clean stew-pan2 break the white and shell of an egg1 beat them together1 put them into the broth1 stir it with a whisk2 when it has boiled a few minutes1 strain it through a tamis or a napkin4 ,obs4 ,a careful cook will seldom have occasion to clarify her broths1 c4 if prepared according to the directions given in ,no4 #bjj4 ,,footnotes3 #aic-99 ,in culinary technicals1 is called ,,first ,,stock1 or long broth2 in the ,french kitchen1 le grand bouillon4 #aic- ,a dog was fed on the richest broth1 yet could not be kept alive2 while another1 which had only the meat boiled to a chip 7and water71 throve very well4 ,this shows the folly of attempting to nourish men by concentrated soups1 jellies1 c4--,,sinclair1 ,code of ,health1 p4 #cef4 ,if this experiment be accurate1 what becomes of the theoretic visions of those who have written about nourishing broths1 c48 ,the best test of the restorative quality of food1 is a small quantity of it satisfying hunger1 the strength of the pulse after it1 and the length of time which elapses before appetite returns again4 ,according to this rule1 we give our verdict in favour of ,no4 #ai or #bd4 ,see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #aha4 ,this subject is fully discussed in ,the ,art of ,invigorating and ,prolonging ,life1 by ,diet1 c4 published by ,g4 ,b4 ,whittaker1 #ac ,ave-,maria lane4 #aid-99 ,called1 in some cookery books1 ,,second ,,stock2 in the ,french kitchen1 jus de boeuf4 #aid- ,a great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of putting in the water3 if it is poured in too soon1 the gravy will not have its true flavour and colour3 and if it be let alone till the meat sticks to the pan1 it will get a burnt taste4 #aie-99 ,truffles1 morells1 and mushrooms1 catchups and wines1 c4 are added by those who are for the extreme of haut got4 #aie- ,the general rule is to put in about a pint of water to a pound of meat1 if it only simmers very gently4 #aie- ,a tamis is a worsted cloth1 sold at the oil shops1 made on purpose for straining sauces3 the best way for using it is for two people to twist it contrary ways4 ,this is a better way of straining sauce than through a sieve1 and refines it much more completely4 #aig-99 ,by this method1 it is said1 an ingenious cook long deceived a large family1 who were all fond of weak mutton broth4 ,mushroom gravy1 or catchup 7,no4 #dci71 approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy1 more than any vegetable juice1 and is the best substitute for it in maigre soups and extempore sauces1 that culinary chemistry has yet produced4 #bjj-99 ,see ,l',art de ,cuisinier1 par ,a4 ,beauvillier1 ,paris1 #ahad1 p4 #fh4 ,i have learned by experience1 that of all the fats that are used for frying1 the pot top which is taken from the surface of the broth and stock-pot is by far the best4 #bjc-99 ,to make pease pottage1 double the quantity4 ,those who often make pease soup should have a mill1 and grind the pease just before they dress them2 a less quantity will suffice1 and the soup will be much sooner made4 #bjd-99 ,if the liquor is very salt1 the pease will never boil tender4 ,therefore1 when you make pease soup with the liquor in which salted pork or beef has been boiled1 tie up the pease in a cloth1 and boil them first for an hour in soft water4 #bjd- ,half a drachm of celery-seed1 pounded fine1 and put into the soup a quarter of an hour before it is finished1 will flavour three quarts4 #bjd- ,some put in dried mint rubbed to fine powder2 but as every body does not like mint1 it is best to send it up on a plate4 ,see pease powder1 ,no4 #deh1 essence of celery1 ,no4 #dji1 and ,nos4 #deg and #dei4 #bje-99 ,my witty predecessor1 ,dr4 ,,hunter 7see ,culina1 page #ig71 says1 ,if a proper quantity of curry-powder 7,no4 #dee7 be added to pease soup1 a good soup might be made1 under the title of curry pease soup4 ,heliogabalus offered rewards for the discovery of a new dish1 and the ,british ,parliament have given notoriety to inventions of much less importance than 'curry pease soup4' ,n4,b4 ,celery1 or carrots1 or turnips1 shredded1 or cut in squares 7or ,scotch barley1--in the latter case the soup must be rather thinner71 or cut into bits about an inch long1 and boiled separately1 and thrown into the tureen when the soup is going to table1 will give another agreeable variety1 and may be called celery and pease soup4 ,read ,obs4 to ,no4 #bad #bjg-99 ,the ,french call this soup maigre2 the ,english acceptation of which is poor and watery1 and does not at all accord with the ,french1 which is1 soups1 c4 made without meat3 thus1 turtle1 the richest dish that comes to an ,english table 7if dressed without meat gravy71 is a maigre dish4 #bji-99 ,we copied the following receipt from ,the ,morning ,post1 ,jan4 #ahbj4 ,,winter ,,soup4--7,no4 #bbg47 #baj lbs of beef1 fore-quarters1 #ij lbs4 of legs of beef1 #c bushels of best split pease1 #a bushel of flour1 #ab bundles of leeks1 #f bundles of celery1 #ab lbs4 of salt1 #aa lbs4 of black pepper4 ,these good ingredients will make #ajjj quarts of nourishing and agreeable soup1 at an expense 7establishment avoided7 of little less than #b-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,of this1 #bfjj quarts a day have been delivered during the late inclement weather1 and the cessation of ordinary employment1 at two stations in the parish of ,bermondsey1 at one penny per quart1 by which #fjj families have been daily assisted1 and it thankfully received4 ,such a nourishment and comfort could not have been provided by themselves separately for fourpence a quart1 if at all1 and reckoning little for their fire1 nothing for their time4 #baa-99 ,read ,no4 #agf4 #bad-99 ,some lovers of haut got fry the tails before they put them into the soup-pot4 #baf-99 ,fowls' or turkeys' heads make good and cheap soup in the same manner4 #bah-99 ,to this fine aromatic herb1 turtle soup is much indebted for its spicy flavour1 and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of ,london1 who1 ,i believe1 are pretty generally of the same opinion as ,dr4 ,salmon4 ,see his ,household ,dictionary and ,essay on ,cookery1 #hvo4 ,london1 #agaj1 page #cd1 article ',basil4' ,this comforts the heart1 expels melancholy1 and cleanses the lungs4 ,see ,no4 #cjg4 ,this plant gave the peculiar flavour to the original ,fetter-lane sausages4--,,gray',s ,supplement to the ,pharmacopoeia1 #hvo4 #ahba p4 #eb4 #bai-99 ,tout le monde sait que tous les ragots qui portent le nom de ,,tortue1 sont d'origine ,anglaise4--,manuel des ,amphitryons1 #hvo4 #ahjh1 p4 #bbi4 #bai- ,those who do not like the trouble1 c4 of making mock turtle1 may be supplied with it ready made1 in high perfection1 at ,,birch',s1 in ,cornhill4 ,it is not poisoned with ,cayenne pepper1 which the turtle and mock turtle soup of most pastry cooks and tavern cooks is1 and to that degree1 that it acts like a blister on the coats of the stomach4 ,this prevents our mentioning any other maker of this soup1 which is often made with cow-heel1 or the mere scalp of the calf's head1 instead of the head itself4 ,the following are ,mr4 ,birch's directions for warming this soup3--,empty the turtle into a broad earthen vessel1 to keep cool3 when wanted for table1 to two quarts of soup add one gill of boiling water or veal broth1 put it over a good1 clear fire1 keeping it gently stirred 7that it may not burn72 when it has boiled about three minutes1 skim it1 and put it in the tureen4 ,n4,b4 ,the broth or water1 and the wine1 to be put into the stew-pan before you put in the turtle4 #bai- ,the reader may have remarked1 that mock turtle and potted beef always come in season together4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #ejc994 ,this gravy meat will make an excellent savoury potted relish1 as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbs and spice that are boiled with it4 #bbj-99 ,many gourmets and gastrologers prefer the copy to the original3 we confess that when done as it ought to be1 the mock turtle is exceedingly interesting4--,tabella ,cibaria1 #ahbj1 p4 #cj4 ,turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country1 in which case the soup would be incomparably improved by leaving out the turtle1 and substituting a good calf's head4--,supplement to ,encyc4 ,brit4 ,edinburgh1 vol4 iv4 p4 #cca4 ,very fine fat turtles are brought to ,new-,york from the ,west ,indies2 and1 during the warm weather1 kept in crawls till wanted3 of these they make soup1 which surpasses any mock turtle ever made4 ,a4 #bbb-99 ,mullaga-tawny signifies pepper water4 ,the progress of inexperienced peripatetic palaticians has lately been arrested by these outlandish words being pasted on the windows of our coffee-houses4 ,it has1 we believe1 answered the restaurateur's purpose1 and often excited ,,john ,,bull to walk in and taste3 the more familiar name of curry soup would1 perhaps1 not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much-loved mock turtle4 ,it is a fashionable soup1 and a great favourite with our ,east ,indian friends1 and we give the best receipt we could procure for it4 #bbc-99 ,the usual allowance at a turtle feast is six pounds live weight per head3 at the ,spanish dinner1 at the ,city of ,london ,tavern1 in ,august1 #ahjh1 #djj guests attended1 and #bejj pounds of turtle were consumed4--,see ,,bell',s ,weekly ,messenger for ,august #gth1 #ahjh4 ,epicure ,,quin used to say1 it was not safe to sit down to a turtle feast at one of the ,city ,halls1 without a basket-hilted knife and fork4 ,we recommend our friends1 before encountering such a temptation1 to read our peptic precepts4 ,nothing is more difficult of digestion1 or oftener requires the aid of peristaltic persuaders1 than the glutinous callipash which is considered the bonne bouche of this soup4 ,turtle is generally spoiled by being over-dressed4 ,in ,philadelphia1 an excellent turtle soup is made of a small native tortoise1 called a terrapin1 and the article terrapin soup4 ,a4 #bbc- ,a pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter2 it thence follows1 that #aejj pounds of the same meat1 which is the whole weight of a bullock1 would give only #id pounds1 which might be easily contained in an earthen jar4--,dr4 ,,hutton',s ,rational ,recreations1 vol4 iv4 p4 #aid4 ,in what degree portable or other soup be nutritious1 we know not1 but refer the reader to our note under ,no4 #ahe4 #bbc- ,this machine was invented by ,dr4 ,denys ,papin1 ,f4,r4,s41 about the year #afca1 as appears by his essay on ,the ,new ,digester1 or ,engine for ,softening ,bones2 by the help of which 7he says7 the oldest and hardest cow-beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young and choice meat4 ,although we have not yet found that they do what ,dr4 ,papin says1 make old and tough meat young and tender1 they are1 however1 excellent things to make broths and soups in4 ,among a multitude of other admirable excellencies obtainable by his digester1 ,dr4 ,papin1 in his #ith chapter1 page #ed1 on the profit that a good engine may come to1 says1 ,i have found that an old hat1 very bad and loosely made1 having imbibed the jelly of bones became very firm and stiff4 ,,gravies ,,and ,,sauces4 ,melted ,butter1 ,is so simple and easy to prepare1 that it is a matter of general surprise1 that what is done so often in every ,english kitchen1 is so seldom done right3 foreigners may well say1 that although we have only one sauce for vegetables1 fish1 flesh1 fowl1 c4 we hardly ever make that good4 ,it is spoiled nine times out of ten1 more from idleness than from ignorance1 and rather because the cook won't than because she can't do it2 which can only be the case when housekeepers will not allow butter to do it with4 ,good melted butter cannot be made with mere flour and water2 there must be a full and proper proportion of butter4 ,as it must be always on the table1 and is the foundation of almost all our ,english sauces1 we have1 ,melted butter and oysters1 ---- ---- ---- parsley1 ---- ---- ---- anchovies1 ---- ---- ---- eggs1 ---- ---- ---- shrimps1 ---- ---- ---- lobsters1 ---- ---- ---- capers1 c4 c4 c4 ,i have tried every way of making it2 and ,i trust1 at last1 that ,i have written a receipt1 which1 if the cook will carefully observe1 she will constantly succeed in giving satisfaction4 ,in the quantities of the various sauces ,i have ordered1 ,i have had in view the providing for a family of half-a-dozen moderate people4 ,never pour sauce over meat1 or even put it into the dish1 however well made1 some of the company may have an antipathy to it2 tastes are as different as faces3 moreover1 if it is sent up separate in a boat1 it will keep hot longer1 and what is left may be put by for another time1 or used for another purpose4 ,lastly4 ,observe1 that in ordering the proportions of meat1 butter1 wine1 spice1 c4 in the following receipts1 the proper quantity is set down1 and that a less quantity will not do2 and in some instances those palates which have been used to the extreme of piquance1 will require additional excitement4#bbh-99 ,if we have erred1 it has been on the right side1 from an anxious wish to combine economy with elegance1 and the wholesome with the toothsome4 ,melted ,butter4 ,keep a pint stew-pan#bbh- for this purpose only4 ,cut two ounces of butter into little bits1 that it may melt more easily1 and mix more readily2 put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoonful 7i4 e4 about three drachms7 of flour1 7some prefer arrow-root1 or potato starch1 ,no4 #ddh71 and two table-spoonfuls of milk4 ,when thoroughly mixed1 add six table-spoonfuls of water2 hold it over the fire1 and shake it round every minute 7all the while the same way71 till it just begins to simmer2 then let it stand quietly and boil up4 ,it should be of the thickness of good cream4 ,n4,b4 ,two table-spoonfuls of ,no4 #dci1 instead of the milk1 will make as good mushroom sauce as need be1 and is a superlative accompaniment to either fish1 flesh1 or fowl4 ,obs4 ,this is the best way of preparing melted butter2 milk mixes with the butter much more easily and more intimately than water alone can be made to do4 ,this is of proper thickness to be mixed at table with flavouring essences1 anchovy1 mushroom1 or cavice1 c4 ,if made merely to pour over vegetables1 add a little more milk to it4 ,n4,b4 ,if the butter oils1 put a spoonful of cold water to it1 and stir it with a spoon2 if it is very much oiled1 it must be poured backwards and forwards from the stew-pan to the sauce-boat till it is right again4 ,,mem4 ,melted butter made to be mixed with flavouring essences1 catchups1 c4 should be of the thickness of light batter1 that it may adhere to the fish1 c4 ,thickening4--7,no4 #beg47 ,clarified butter is best for this purpose2 but if you have none ready1 put some fresh butter into a stew-pan over a slow1 clear fire2 when it is melted1 add fine flour sufficient to make it the thickness of paste2 stir it well together with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes1 till it is quite smooth1 and the colour of a guinea3 this must be done very gradually and patiently2 if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it1 it will become bitter and empyreumatic3 pour it into an earthen pan1 and keep it for use4 ,it will keep good a fortnight in summer1 and longer in winter4 ,a large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a quart of gravy4 ,obs4 ,this1 in the ,french kitchen1 is called roux4 ,be particularly attentive in making it2 if it gets any burnt smell or taste1 it will spoil every thing it is put into1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #cbb4 ,when cold1 it should be thick enough to cut out with a knife1 like a solid paste4 ,it is a very essential article in the kitchen1 and is the basis of consistency in most made-dishes1 soups1 sauces1 and ragots2 if the gravies1 c4 are too thin1 add this thickening1 more or less1 according to the consistence you would wish them to have4 ,,mem4 ,in making thickening1 the less butter1 and the more flour you use1 the better2 they must be thoroughly worked together1 and the broth1 or soup1 c4 you put them to1 added by degrees3 take especial care to incorporate them well together1 or your sauces1 c4 will taste floury1 and have a disgusting1 greasy appearance3 therefore1 after you have thickened your sauce1 add to it some broth1 or warm water1 in the proportion of two table-spoonfuls to a pint1 and set it by the side of the fire1 to raise any fat1 c4 that is not thoroughly incorporated with the gravy1 which you must carefully remove as it comes to the top4 ,this is called cleansing1 or finishing the sauce4 99499 ,half an ounce of butter1 and a table-spoonful of flour1 are about the proportion for a pint of sauce to make it as thick as cream4 ,n4,b4 ,the fat skimmings off the top of the broth pot are sometimes substituted for butter 7see ,no4 #bdj72 some cooks merely thicken their soups and sauces with flour1 as we have directed in ,no4 #bde1 or potato farina1 ,no4 #ddh4 ,clarified ,butter4--7,no4 #bei47 ,put the butter in a nice1 clean stew-pan1 over a very clear1 slow fire2 watch it1 and when it is melted1 carefully skim off the buttermilk1 c4 which will swim on the top2 let it stand a minute or two for the impurities to sink to the bottom2 then pour the clear butter through a sieve into a clean basin1 leaving the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan4 ,obs4 ,butter thus purified will be as sweet as marrow1 a very useful covering for potted meats1 c41 and for frying fish equal to the finest ,florence oil2 for which purpose it is commonly used by ,catholics1 and those whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands fried in animal oil4 ,burnt ,butter4--7,no4 #bfj47 ,put two ounces of fresh butter into a small frying-pan2 when it becomes a dark brown colour1 add to it a table-spoonful and a half of good vinegar1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,obs4 ,this is used as sauce for boiled fish1 or poached eggs4 ,oiled ,butter4--7,no4 #bfj9947 ,put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan2 set it at a distance from the fire1 so that it may melt gradually1 till it comes to an oil2 and pour it off quietly from the dregs4 ,obs4 ,this will supply the place of olive oil2 and by some is preferred to it either for salads or frying4 ,parsley and ,butter4--7,no4 #bfa47 ,wash some parsley very clean1 and pick it carefully leaf by leaf2 put a tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water3 boil the parsley about ten minutes2 drain it on a sieve2 mince it quite fine1 and then bruise it to a pulp4 ,the delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent relish depends upon the parsley being minced very fine3 put it into a sauce-boat1 and mix with it1 by degrees1 about half a pint of good melted butter 7,no4 #bef72 only do not put so much flour to it1 as the parsley will add to its thickness3 never pour parsley and butter over boiled things1 but send it up in a boat4 ,obs4 ,in ,french cookery-books this is called melted butter1 ,english fashion2 and1 with the addition of a slice of lemon cut into dice1 a little allspice and vinegar1 ,dutch sauce4 ,n4,b4 ,to preserve parsley through the winter3 in ,may1 ,june1 or ,july1 take fine fresh-gathered sprigs2 pick1 and wash them clean2 set on a stew-pan half full of water2 put a little salt in it2 boil1 and skim it clean1 and then put in the parsley1 and let it boil for a couple of minutes2 take it out1 and lay it on a sieve before the fire1 that it may be dried as quick as possible2 put it by in a tin box1 and keep it in a dry place3 when you want it1 lay it in a basin1 and cover it with warm water a few minutes before you use it4 ,gooseberry ,sauce4--7,no4 #bfc47 ,top and tail them close with a pair of scissors1 and scald half a pint of green gooseberries2 drain them on a hair-sieve1 and put them into half a pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #bef4 ,some add grated ginger and lemon-peel1 and the ,french1 minced fennel2 others send up the gooseberries whole or mashed1 without any butter1 c4 ,chervil1 ,basil1 ,tarragon1 ,burnet1 ,cress1 and ,butter4--7,no4 #bfd47 ,this is the first time that chervil1 which has so long been a favourite with the sagacious ,french cook1 has been introduced into an ,english book4 ,its flavour is a strong concentration of the combined taste of parsley and fennel1 but more aromatic and agreeable than either2 and is an excellent sauce with boiled poultry or fish4 ,prepare it1 c4 as we have directed for parsley and butter1 ,no4 #bfa4 ,fennel and ,butter for ,mackerel1 c4--7,no4 #bfe47 ,is prepared in the same manner as we have just described in ,no4 #bfa4 ,obs4 ,for mackerel sauce1 or boiled soles1 c41 some people take equal parts of fennel and parsley2 others add a sprig of mint1 or a couple of young onions minced very fine4 ,mackerel-roe ,sauce4--7,no4 #bff47 ,boil the roes of mackerel 7soft roes are best72 bruise them with a spoon with the yelk of an egg1 beat up with a very little pepper and salt1 and some fennel and parsley boiled and chopped very fine1 mixed with almost half a pint of thin melted butter4 ,see ,no4 #bef4 ,mushroom catchup1 walnut pickle1 or soy may be added4 ,egg ,sauce4--7,no4 #bfg47 ,this agreeable accompaniment to roasted poultry1 or salted fish1 is made by putting three eggs into boiling water1 and boiling them for about twelve minutes1 when they will be hard2 put them into cold water till you want them4 ,this will make the yelks firmer1 and prevent their surface turning black1 and you can cut them much neater3 use only two of the whites2 cut the whites into small dice1 the yelks into bits about a quarter of an inch square2 put them into a sauce-boat2 pour to them half a pint of melted butter1 and stir them together4 ,obs4 ,the melted butter for egg sauce need not be made quite so thick as ,no4 #bef4 ,if you are for superlative egg sauce1 pound the yelks of a couple of eggs1 and rub them with the melted butter to thicken it4 ,n4,b4 ,some cooks garnish salt fish with hard-boiled eggs cut in half4 ,plum-pudding ,sauce4--7,no4 #bfi47 ,a glass of sherry1 half a glass of brandy 7or cherry-bounce71 or ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd71 or essence of punch 7,nos4 #dga and #dgi71 and two tea-spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar 7a very little grated lemon-peel is sometimes added71 in a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter3 grate nutmeg on the top4 ,see ,pudding ,catchup1 ,no4 #ddf4 ,anchovy ,sauce4--7,no4 #bgj47 ,pound three anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of butter2 rub it through a double hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon1 and stir it into almost half a pint of melted butter 7,no4 #bef72 or stir in a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy1 ,no4 #dcc4 ,to the above1 many cooks add lemon-juice and ,cayenne4 ,obs4 ,foreigners make this sauce with good brown sauce 7,no4 #cbi71 or white sauce 7,no4 #cfd72 instead of melted butter1 add to it catchup1 soy1 and some of their flavoured vinegars1 7as elder or tarragon71 pepper and fine spice1 sweet herbs1 capers1 eschalots1 c4 ,they serve it with most roasted meats4 ,n4,b4 ,keep your anchovies well covered2 first tie down your jar with bladder moistened with vinegar1 and then wiped dry2 tie leather over that3 when you open a jar1 moisten the bladder1 and it will come off easily2 as soon as you have taken out the fish1 replace the coverings2 the air soon rusts and spoils anchovies4 ,see ,no4 #dcc1 c4 ,garlic ,sauce4--7,no4 #bgb47 ,pound two cloves of garlic with a piece of fresh butter1 about as big as a nutmeg2 rub it through a double hair-sieve1 and stir it into half a pint of melted butter1 or beef gravy or make it with garlic vinegar1 ,nos4 #djj1 #dja1 and #djb4 ,lemon ,sauce4--7,no4 #bgc47 ,pare a lemon1 and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crown piece2 divide these into dice1 and put them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #bef4 ,obs4--,some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-peel 7pared very thin7 very fine1 and add it to the above4 ,caper ,sauce4--7,no4 #bgd4 ,see also ,no4 #bie47 ,to make a quarter of a pint1 take a table-spoonful of capers1 and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar4 ,the present fashion of cutting capers is to mince one-third of them very fine1 and divide the others in half2 put them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter1 or good thickened gravy 7,no4 #cbi72 stir them the same way as you did the melted butter1 or it will oil4 ,obs4--,some boil1 and mince fine a few leaves of parsley1 or chervil1 or tarragon1 and add these to the sauce2 others the juice of half a ,seville orange1 or lemon4 ,mem4--,keep the caper bottle very closely corked1 and do not use any of the caper liquor3 if the capers are not well covered with it1 they will immediately spoil2 and it is an excellent ingredient in hashes1 c4 ,the ,dutch use it as a fish sauce1 mixing it with melted butter4 ,mock ,caper ,sauce4--7,no4 #bge1 or ,no4 #bie47 ,cut some pickled green pease1 ,french beans1 gherkins1 or nasturtiums1 into bits the size of capers2 put them into half a pint of melted butter1 with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice1 or nice vinegar4 ,oyster ,sauce4--7,no4 #bgh47 ,choose plump and juicy natives for this purpose3 don't take them out of their shell till you put them into the stew-pan1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #aha4 ,to make good oyster sauce for half a dozen hearty fish-eaters1 you cannot have less than three or four dozen oysters4 ,save their liquor2 strain it1 and put it and them into a stew-pan3 as soon as they boil1 and the fish plump1 take them off the fire1 and pour the contents of the stew-pan into a sieve over a clean basin2 wash the stew-pan out with hot water1 and put into it the strained liquor1 with about an equal quantity of milk1 and about two ounces and a half of butter1 with which you have well rubbed a large table-spoonful of flour2 give it a boil up1 and pour it through a sieve into a basin 7that the sauce may be quite smooth71 and then back again into the saucepan2 now shave the oysters1 and 7if you have the honour of making sauce for a committee of taste1 take away the gristly part also7 put in only the soft part of them3 if they are very large1 cut them in half1 and set them by the fire to keep hot3 if they boil after1 they will become hard4 ,if you have not liquor enough1 add a little melted butter1 or cream 7see ,no4 #chh71 or milk beat up with the yelk of an egg 7this must not be put in till the sauce is done74 ,some barbarous cooks add pepper1 or mace1 the juice or peel of a lemon1 horseradish1 essence of anchovy1 ,cayenne1 c43 plain sauces are only to taste of the ingredient from which they derive their name4 ,obs4--,it will very much heighten the flavour of this sauce to pound the soft part of half a dozen 7unboiled7 oysters2 rub it through a hair-sieve1 and then stir it into the sauce3 this essence of oyster 7and for some palates a few grains of ,cayenne7 is the only addition we recommend4 ,see ,no4 #dda4 ,preserved ,oysters4#bcd-99--7,no4 #bhj47 ,open the oysters carefully1 so as not to cut them except in dividing the gristle which attaches the shells2 put them into a mortar1 and when you have got as many as you can conveniently pound at once1 add about two drachms of salt to a dozen oysters2 pound them1 and rub them through the back of a hair-sieve1 and put them into a mortar again1 with as much flour 7which has been previously thoroughly dried7 as will make them into a paste2 roll it out several times1 and1 lastly1 flour it1 and roll it out the thickness of a half-crown1 and divide it into pieces about an inch square2 lay them in a ,dutch oven1 where they will dry so gently as not to get burnt3 turn them every half hour1 and when they begin to dry1 crumble them2 they will take about four hours to dry2 then pound them fine1 sift them1 and put them into bottles1 and seal them over4 ,n4,b4 ,three dozen of natives required #g-a_/b ounces of dried flour to make them into a paste1 which then weighed #aa ounces2 when dried and powdered1 #f-a_/d ounces4 ,to make half a pint of sauce1 put one ounce of butter into a stew-pan with three drachms of oyster powder1 and six table-spoonfuls of milk2 set it on a slow fire2 stir it till it boils1 and season it with salt4 ,this powder1 if made with plump1 juicy natives1 will abound with the flavour of the fish2 and if closely corked1 and kept in a dry place1 will remain good for some time4 ,obs4--,this extract is a welcome succedaneum while oysters are out of season1 and in such inland parts as seldom have any1 is a valuable addition to the list of fish sauces3 it is equally good with boiled fowl1 or rump steak1 and sprinkled on bread and butter makes a very good sandwich1 and is especially worthy the notice of country housekeepers1 and as a store sauce for the army and navy4 ,see ,anchovy ,powder1 ,no4 #dce4 ,shrimp ,sauce4--7,no4 #bhc47 ,shell a pint of shrimps2 pick them clean1 wash them1 and put them into half a pint of good melted butter4 ,a pint of unshelled shrimps is about enough for four persons4 ,obs4--,some stew the heads and shells of the shrimps1 7with or without a blade of bruised mace17 for a quarter of an hour1 and strain off the liquor to melt the butter with1 and add a little lemon-juice1 ,cayenne1 and essence of anchovy1 or soy1 cavice1 c42 but the flavour of the shrimp is so delicate1 that it will be overcome by any such additions4 ,,mem4--,if your shrimps are not quite fresh1 they will eat tough and thready1 as other stale fish do4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #adj4 ,lobster ,sauce4--7,no4 #bhd47 ,choose a fine spawny hen lobster2#bcf-99 be sure it is fresh1 so get a live one if you can1 7one of my culinary predecessors says1 let it be heavy and lively17 and boil it as ,no4 #agf2 pick out the spawn and the red coral into a mortar1 add to it half an ounce of butter1 pound it quite smooth1 and rub it through a hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon2 cut the meat of the lobster into small squares1 or pull it to pieces with a fork2 put the pounded spawn into as much melted butter 7,no4 #bef7 as you think will do1 and stir it together till it is thoroughly mixed2 now put to it the meat of the lobster1 and warm it on the fire2 take care it does not boil1 which will spoil its complexion1 and its brilliant red colour will immediately fade4 ,the above is a very easy and excellent manner of making this sauce4 ,some use strong beef or veal gravy instead of melted butter1 adding anchovy1 ,cayenne1 catchup1 cavice1 lemon-juice1 or pickle1 or wine1 c4 ,obs4--,save a little of the inside red coral spawn1 and rub it through a sieve 7without butter73 it is a very ornamental garnish to sprinkle over fish2 and if the skin is broken1 7which will sometimes happen to the most careful cook1 when there is a large dinner to dress1 and many other things to attend to17 you will find it a convenient and elegant veil1 to conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous gourmands4 ,n4,b4 ,various methods have been tried to preserve lobsters1 see ,no4 #agh1 and lobster spawn1 for a store sauce4 ,the live spawn may be kept some time in strong salt and water1 or in an ice-house4 ,the following process might1 perhaps1 preserve it longer4 ,put it into a saucepan of boiling water1 with a large spoonful of salt in it1 and let it boil quick for five minutes2 then drain it on a hair-sieve2 spread it out thin on a plate1 and set it in a ,dutch oven till it is thoroughly dried2 grind it in a clean mill1 and pack it closely in well-stopped bottles4 ,see also ,potted ,lobsters1 ,no4 #agh4 ,sauce for ,lobster1 c4--7,no4 #bhe4 ,see also ,no4 #cgb47 ,bruise the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back of a wooden spoon1 or rather pound them in a mortar1 with a tea-spoonful of water1 and the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster2 rub them quite smooth1 with a tea-spoonful of made mustard1 two table-spoonfuls of salad oil1 and five of vinegar2 season it with a very little ,cayenne pepper1 and some salt4 ,obs4--,to this1 elder or tarragon vinegar 7,no4 #cif71 or anchovy essence 7,no4 #dcc71 is occasionally added4 ,liver and ,parsley ,sauce1--7,no4 #bhg47 or ,liver and ,lemon ,sauce4 ,wash the liver 7it must be perfectly fresh7 of a fowl or rabbit1 and boil it five minutes in five table-spoonfuls of water2 chop it fine1 or pound or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in1 and rub it through a sieve3 wash about one-third the bulk of parsley leaves1 put them on to boil in a little boiling water1 with a tea-spoonful of salt in it2 lay it on a hair-sieve to drain1 and mince it very fine2 mix it with the liver1 and put it into a quarter pint of melted butter1 and warm it up2 do not let it boil4 ,or1 ,to make ,lemon and ,liver ,sauce4 ,pare off the rind of a lemon1 or of a ,seville orange1 as thin as possible1 so as not to cut off any of the white with it2 now cut off all the white1 and cut the lemon into slices1 about as thick as a couple of half-crowns2 pick out the pips1 and divide the slices into small squares3 add these1 and a little of the peel minced very fine to the liver1 prepared as directed above1 and put them into the melted butter1 and warm them together2 but do not let them boil4 ,n4,b4 ,the poulterers can always let you have fresh livers1 if that of the fowl or rabbit is not good1 or not large enough to make as much sauce as you wish4 ,obs4--,some cooks1 instead of pounding1 mince the liver very fine 7with half as much bacon71 and leave out the parsley2 others add the juice of half a lemon1 and some of the peel grated1 or a tea-spoonful of tarragon or ,chili vinegar1 a table-spoonful of white wine1 or a little beaten mace1 or nutmeg1 or allspice3 if you wish it a little more lively on the palate1 pound an eschalot1 or a few leaves of tarragon or basil1 with anchovy1 or catchup1 or ,cayenne4 ,liver ,sauce for ,fish4--7,no4 #bhh47 ,boil the liver of the fish1 and pound it in a mortar with a little flour2 stir it into some broth1 or some of the liquor the fish was boiled in1 or melted butter1 parsley1 and a few grains of ,cayenne1 a little essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 or soy1 or catchup 7,no4 #dci72 give it a boil up1 and rub it through a sieve3 you may add a little lemon-juice1 or lemon cut in dice4 ,celery ,sauce1 white4--7,no4 #bhi47 ,pick and wash two heads of nice white celery2 cut it into pieces about an inch long2 stew it in a pint of water1 and a tea-spoonful of salt1 till the celery is tender2#bch-99 roll an ounce of butter with a table-spoonful of flour2 add this to half a pint of cream1 and give it a boil up4 ,n4,b4 ,see ,no4 #dji4 ,celery ,sauce ,pure1 for boiled ,turkey1 ,veal1 ,fowls1 c4 7,no4 #bij47 ,cut small half a dozen heads of nice white celery that is quite clean1 and two onions sliced2 put in a two-quart stew-pan1 with a small lump of butter2 sweat them over a slow fire till quite tender1 then put in two spoonfuls of flour1 half a pint of water 7or beef or veal broth71 salt and pepper1 and a little cream or milk2 boil it a quarter of an hour1 and pass through a fine hair-sieve with the back of a spoon4 ,if you wish for celery sauce when celery is not in season1 a quarter of a drachm of celery-seed1 or a little essence of celery 7,no4 #dji71 will impregnate half a pint of sauce with a sufficient portion of the flavour of the vegetable4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #bad4 ,green or ,sorrel ,sauce4--7,no4 #bia47 ,wash and clean a large ponnet of sorrel2 put it into a stew-pan that will just hold it1 with a bit of butter the size of an egg2 cover it close1 set it over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour1 pass the sorrel with the back of a wooden spoon through a hair-sieve1 season with pepper1 salt1 and a small pinch of powdered sugar1 make it hot1 and serve up under lamb1 veal1 sweetbreads1 c4 c4 ,cayenne1 nutmeg1 and lemon-juice are sometimes added4 ,tomata1 or ,love-apple ,sauce4--7,no4 #bib4 ,see also ,no4 #ddc47 ,have twelve or fifteen tomatas1 ripe and red2 take off the stalk2 cut them in half2 squeeze them just enough to get all the water and seeds out2 put them in a stew-pan with a capsicum1 and two or three table-spoonfuls of beef gravy2 set them on a slow stove for an hour1 or till properly melted2 then rub them through a tamis into a clean stew-pan1 with a little white pepper and salt1 and let them simmer together a few minutes4 ,love-apple ,sauce according to ,ude4 ,melt in a stew-pan a dozen or two of love-apples 7which1 before putting in the stew-pan1 cut in two1 and squeeze the juice and the seeds out72 then put two eschalots1 one onion1 with a few bits of ham1 a clove1 a little thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a few leaves of mace1 and when melted1 rub them through a tamis4 ,mix a few spoonfuls of good ,espagnole or ,spanish sauce1 and a little salt and pepper1 with this pure4 ,boil it for twenty minutes1 and serve up4 ,a4 ,mock ,tomata ,sauce4--7,no4 #bic47 ,the only difference between this and genuine love-apple sauce1 is the substituting the pulp of apple for that of tomata1 colouring it with turmeric1 and communicating an acid flavour to it by vinegar4 ,eschalot ,sauce4--7,no4 #bid47 ,take four eschalots1 and make it in the same manner as garlic sauce 7,no4 #bgb74 ,or1 ,you may make this sauce more extemporaneously by putting two table-spoonfuls of eschalot wine 7,no4 #djc71 and a sprinkling of pepper and salt1 into 7almost7 half a pint of thick melted butter4 ,obs4--,this is an excellent sauce for chops or steaks2 many are very fond of it with roasted or boiled meat1 poultry1 c4 ,eschalot ,sauce for boiled ,mutton4--7,no4 #bie47 ,this is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for caper sauce4 ,mince four eschalots very fine1 and put them into a small saucepan1 with almost half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in3 let them boil up for five minutes2 then put in a table-spoonful of vinegar1 a quarter tea-spoonful of pepper1 a little salt1 and a bit of butter 7as big as a walnut7 rolled in flour2 shake together till it boils4 ,see 7,no4 #djb7 ,eschalot ,wine4 ,obs4--,we like a little lemon-peel with eschalot2 the haut got of the latter is much ameliorated by the delicate aroma of the former4 ,some cooks add a little finely-chopped parsley4 ,young ,onion ,sauce4--7,no4 #bif47 ,peel a pint of button onions1 and put them in water till you want to put them on to boil2 put them into a stew-pan1 with a quart of cold water2 let them boil till tender2 they will take 7according to their size and age7 from half an hour to an hour4 ,you may put them into half a pint of ,no4 #cjg4 ,see also ,no4 #acg4 ,onion ,sauce4--7,no4 #big47 ,those who like the full flavour of onions only cut off the strings and tops 7without peeling off any of the skins71 put them into salt and water1 and let them lie an hour2 then wash them1 put them into a kettle with plenty of water1 and boil them till they are tender3 now skin them1 pass them through a colander1 and mix a little melted butter with them4 ,n4,b4 ,some mix the pulp of apples1 or turnips1 with the onions1 others add mustard to them4 ,white ,onion ,sauce4--7,no4 #bih47 ,the following is a more mild and delicate#bdj-99 preparation3 ,take half a dozen of the largest and whitest onions 7the ,spanish are the mildest1 but these can only be had from ,august to ,december72 peel them and cut them in half1 and lay them in a pan of spring-water for a quarter of an hour1 and then boil for a quarter of an hour2 and then1 if you wish them to taste very mild1 pour off that water1 and cover them with fresh boiling water1 and let them boil till they are tender1 which will sometimes take three-quarters of an hour longer2 drain them well on a hair-sieve2 lay them on the chopping-board1 and chop and bruise them2 put them into a clean saucepan1 with some butter and flour1 half a tea-spoonful of salt1 and some cream1 or good milk2 stir it till it boils2 then rub the whole through a tamis1 or sieve1 adding cream or milk1 to make it the consistence you wish4 ,obs4--,this is the usual sauce for boiled rabbits1 mutton1 or tripe4 ,there must be plenty of it2 the usual expression signifies as much1 for we say1 smother them with it4 ,brown ,onion ,sauces1 or ,onion ,gravy4--7,no4 #bii47 ,peel and slice the onions 7some put in an equal quantity of cucumber or celery7 into a quart stew-pan1 with an ounce of butter2 set it on a slow fire1 and turn the onion about till it is very lightly browned2 now gradually stir in half an ounce of flour2 add a little broth1 and a little pepper and salt2 boil up for a few minutes2 add a table-spoonful of claret1 or port wine1 and same of mushroom catchup1 7you may sharpen it with a little lemon-juice or vinegar17 and rub it through a tamis or fine sieve4 ,curry powder 7,no4 #cdh7 will convert this into excellent curry sauce4 ,n4,b4 ,if this sauce is for steaks1 shred an ounce of onions1 fry them a nice brown1 and put them to the sauce you have rubbed through a tamis2 or some very small1 round1 young silver button onions 7see ,no4 #bif71 peeled and boiled tender1 and put in whole when your sauce is done1 will be an acceptable addition4 ,obs4--,if you have no broth1 put in half a pint of water1 and see ,no4 #beb2 just before you give it the last boil up1 add to it another table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 or the same quantity of port wine or good ale4 ,the flavour of this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon or burnet vinegar 7,nos4 #cif and #cii74 ,sage and ,onion1 or ,goose-stuffing ,sauce4--7,no4 #cjj47 ,chop very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage leaves2 put them into a stew-pan with four spoonfuls of water2 simmer gently for ten minutes2 then put in a tea-spoonful of pepper and salt1 and one ounce of fine bread-crumbs2 mix well together2 then pour to it a quarter of a pint of 7broth1 or gravy1 or7 melted butter1 stir well together1 and simmer it a few minutes longer4 ,obs4 ,this is a very relishing sauce for roast pork1 poultry1 geese1 or ducks2 or green pease on maigre days4 ,see also ,bonne ,bouche for the above1 ,no4 #cda4 ,green ,mint ,sauce4--7,no4 #cjc47 ,wash half a handful of nice1 young1 fresh-gathered green mint 7to this some add one-third the quantity of parsley72 pick the leaves from the stalks1 mince them very fine1 and put them into a sauce-boat1 with a tea-spoonful of moist sugar1 and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar4 ,obs4--,this is the usual accompaniment to hot lamb2 and an equally agreeable relish with cold lamb4 ,if green mint cannot be procured1 this sauce may be made with mint vinegar 7,no4 #cih74 ,apple ,sauce4--7,no4 #cjd47 ,pare and core three good-sized baking apples2 put them into a well-tinned pint saucepan1 with two table-spoonfuls of cold water2 cover the saucepan close1 and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of hours before dinner 7some apples will take a long time stewing1 others will be ready in a quarter of an hour73 when the apples are done enough1 pour off the water1 let them stand a few minutes to get dry2 then beat them up with a fork1 with a bit of butter about as big as a nutmeg1 and a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar4 ,n4,b4 ,some add lemon-peel1 grated1 or minced fine1 or boil a bit with the apples4 ,some are fond of apple sauce with cold pork3 ask those you serve if they desire it4 ,mushroom ,sauce4--7,no4 #cje47 ,pick and peel half a pint of mushrooms 7the smaller the better72 wash them very clean1 and put them into a saucepan1 with half a pint of veal gravy or milk1 a little pepper and salt1 and an ounce of butter rubbed with a table-spoonful of flour2 stir them together1 and set them over a gentle fire1 to stew slowly till tender2 skim and strain it4 ,obs4--,it will be a great improvement to this1 and the two following sauces1 to add to them the juice of half a dozen mushrooms1 prepared the day before1 by sprinkling them with salt1 the same as when you make catchup2 or add a large spoonful of good double mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci74 ,see ,quintessence of ,mushrooms1 ,no4 #ddj4 ,n4,b4 ,much as we love the flavour of mushrooms1 we must enter our protest against their being eaten in substance1 when the morbid effects they produce too often prove them worthy of the appellations ,seneca gave them1 voluptuous poison1 lethal luxury1 c42 and we caution those who cannot refrain from indulging their palate with the seducing relish of this deceitful fungus1 to masticate it diligently4 ,we do not believe that mushrooms are nutritive2 every one knows they are often dangerously indigestible2 therefore the rational epicure will be content with extracting the flavour from them1 which is obtained in the utmost perfection by the process directed in ,no4 #dci4 ,mushroom ,sauce1 brown4--7,no4 #cjf47 ,put the mushrooms into half a pint of beef gravy 7,no4 #ahf1 or ,no4 #cbi72 thicken with flour and butter1 and proceed as above4 ,mushroom ,sauce1 extempore4--7,no4 #cjg47 ,proceed as directed in ,no4 #bef to melt butter1 only1 instead of two table-spoonfuls of milk1 put in two of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci or ,no4 #ddj72 or add it to thickened broth1 gravy1 or mock turtle soup1 c4 or put in ,no4 #bif4 ,obs4 ,this is a welcome relish with fish1 poultry1 or chops and steaks1 c4 ,a couple of quarts of good catchup 7,no4 #dci17 will make more good sauce than ten times its cost of meat1 c4 ,walnut catchup will give you another variety2 and ,ball's cavice1 which is excellent4 ,poor ,man's ,sauce4--7,no4 #caj47 ,pick a handful of parsley leaves from the stalks1 mince them very fine1 strew over a little salt2 shred fine half a dozen young green onions1 add these to the parsley1 and put them into a sauce-boat1 with three table-spoonfuls of oil1 and five of vinegar2 add some ground black pepper and salt2 stir together and send it up4 ,pickled ,french beans or gherkins1 cut fine1 may be added1 or a little grated horseradish4 ,obs4--,this sauce is in much esteem in ,france1 where people of taste1 weary of rich dishes1 to obtain the charm of variety1 occasionally order the fare of the peasant4 ,the ,spaniard's ,garlic ,gravy4--7,no4 #caa4 ,see also ,no4 #bgb47 ,slice a pound and a half of veal or beef1 pepper and salt it1 lay it in a stew-pan with a couple of carrots split1 and four cloves of garlic sliced1 a quarter pound of sliced ham1 and a large spoonful of water2 set the stew-pan over a gentle fire1 and watch when the meat begins to stick to the pan2 when it does1 turn it1 and let it be very well browned 7but take care it is not at all burned72 then dredge it with flour1 and pour in a quart of broth1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 a couple of cloves bruised1 and slice in a lemon2 set it on again1 and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half longer2 then take off the fat1 and strain the gravy from the ingredients1 by pouring it through a napkin1 straining1 and pressing it very hard4 ,obs4--,this1 it is said1 was the secret of the old ,spaniard1 who kept the house called by that name on ,hampstead ,heath4 ,those who love garlic1 will find it an extremely rich relish4 ,mr4 ,michael ,kelly's#bdd-99 ,sauce for boiled ,tripe1 ,calf-head1 or ,cow-heel4--7,no4 #caa9947 ,garlic vinegar1 a table-spoonful2 of mustard1 brown sugar1 and black pepper1 a tea-spoonful each2 stirred into half a pint of oiled melted butter4 ,mr4 ,kelly's ,sauce piquante4 ,pound a table-spoonful of capers1 and one of minced parsley1 as fine as possible2 then add the yelks of three hard eggs1 rub them well together with a table-spoonful of mustard2 bone six anchovies1 and pound them1 rub them through a hair-sieve1 and mix with two table-spoonfuls of oil1 one of vinegar1 one of eschalot ditto1 and a few grains of ,cayenne pepper2 rub all these well together in a mortar1 till thoroughly incorporated2 then stir them into half a pint of good gravy1 or melted butter1 and put the whole through a sieve4 ,fried ,parsley4--7,no4 #cag47 ,let it be nicely picked and washed1 then put into a cloth1 and swung backwards and forwards till it is perfectly dry2 put it into a pan of hot fat1 fry it quick1 and have a slice ready to take it out the moment it is crisp 7in another moment it will be spoiled72 put it on a sieve1 or coarse cloth1 before the fire to drain4 ,crisp ,parsley4--7,no4 #cah47 ,pick and wash young parsley1 shake it in a dry cloth to drain the water from it2 spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a ,dutch oven before the fire1 and turn it frequently until it is quite crisp4 ,this is a much more easy way of preparing it than frying it1 which is not seldom ill done4 ,obs4 ,a very pretty garnish for lamb chops1 fish1 c4 ,fried ,bread ,sippets4--7,no4 #cai47 ,cut a slice of bread about a quarter of an inch thick2 divide it with a sharp knife into pieces two inches square2 shape these into triangles or crosses2 put some very clean fat into an iron frying-pan3 when it is hot1 put in the sippets1 and fry them a delicate light brown2 take them up with a fish slice1 and drain them well from fat1 turning them occasionally2 this will take a quarter of an hour4 ,keep the pan at such a distance from the fire that the fat may be hot enough to brown without burning the bread2 this is a requisite precaution in frying delicate thin things4 ,obs4 ,these are a pretty garnish1 and very welcome accompaniment and improvement to the finest made dishes3 they may also be sent up with pease and other soups2 but when intended for soups1 the bread must be cut into bits1 about half an inch square4 ,n4,b4 ,if these are not done very delicately clean and dry1 they are uneatable4 ,fried ,bread-crumbs4--7,no4 #cbj47 ,rub bread 7which has been baked two days7 through a wire sieve1 or colander2 or you may rub them in a cloth till they are as fine as if they had been grated and sifted2 put them into a stew-pan1 with a couple of ounces of butter2 place it over a moderate fire1 and stir them about with a wooden spoon till they are the colour of a guinea2 spread them on a sieve1 and let them stand ten minutes to drain1 turning them frequently4 ,obs4 ,fried crumbs are sent up with roasted sweetbreads1 or larks1 pheasants1 partridges1 woodcocks1 and grouse1 or moor game2 especially if they have been kept long enough1 ,bread ,sauce4--7,no4 #cba47 ,put a small tea-cupful of bread-crumbs into a stew-pan1 pour on it as much milk as it will soak up1 and a little more2 or1 instead of the milk1 take the giblets1 head1 neck1 and legs1 c4 of the poultry1 c4 and stew them1 and moisten the bread with this liquor2 put it on the fire with a middling-sized onion1 and a dozen berries of pepper or allspice1 or a little mace2 let it boil1 then stir it well1 and let it simmer till it is quite stiff1 and then put to it about two table-spoonfuls of cream or melted butter1 or a little good broth2 take out the onion and pepper1 and it is ready4 ,obs4 ,this is an excellent accompaniment to game and poultry1 c41 and a good vehicle for receiving various flavours from the ,magazine of ,taste 7,no4 #dfb74 ,rice ,sauce4--7,no4 #cba9947 ,steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk1 with onion1 pepper1 c4 as in the last receipt2 when the rice is quite tender 7take out the spice71 rub it through a sieve into a clean stew-pan3 if too thick1 put a little milk or cream to it4 ,obs4 ,this is a very delicate white sauce2 and at elegant tables is frequently served instead of bread sauce4 ,browning1--7,no4 #cbb47 ,is a convenient article to colour those soups or sauces of which it is supposed their deep brown complexion denotes the strength and savouriness of the composition4 ,burned sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the brewers1 who use it under the name of essentia bina to colour their beer3 it is also employed by the brandy-makers1 in considerable quantity1 to colour brandy2 to which1 besides enriching its complexion1 it gives that sweetish taste1 and fulness in the mouth1 which custom has taught brandy drinkers to admire1 and prefer to the finest ,cognac in its genuine state4 ,when employed for culinary purposes1 this is sometimes made with strong gravy1 or walnut catchup4 ,those who like a got of acid may add a little walnut pickle4 ,it will hardly be told from what is commonly called genuine ,japanese soy#bdf-99 7for which it is a very good substitute74 ,burned treacle or sugar1 the peels of walnut1 ,cayenne pepper1 or capsicums1 or ,chilies1 vinegar1 garlic1 and pickled herrings 7especially the ,dutch71 ,sardinias1 or sprats1 appear to be the bases of almost all the sauces which now 7to use the maker's phrase7 stand unrivalled4 ,although indefatigable research and experiment have put us in possession of these compositions1 it would not be quite fair to enrich the cook at the expense of the oilman1 c42 we hope we have said enough on these subjects to satisfy the rational epicure4 ,put half a pound of pounded lump-sugar1 and a table-spoonful of water1 into a clean iron saucepan1 set it over a slow fire1 and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour1 and begins to smoke2 then add to it an ounce of salt1 and dilute it by degrees with water1 till it is the thickness of soy2 let it boil1 take off the scum1 and strain the liquor into bottles1 which must be well stopped3 if you have not any of this by you1 and you wish to darken the colour of your sauces1 pound a tea-spoonful of lump-sugar1 and put it into an iron spoon1 with as much water as will dissolve it2 hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a very dark brown colour2 mix it with the soup1 c4 while it is hot4 ,obs4 ,most of the preparations under this title are a medley of burned butter1 spices1 catchup1 wine1 c4 ,we recommend the rational epicure to be content with the natural colour of soups and sauces1 which1 to a well-educated palate1 are much more agreeable1 without any of these empyreumatic additions2 however they may please the eye1 they plague the stomach most grievously2 so open your mouth and shut your eyes4 ,for the sake of producing a pretty colour1 cheese1 ,cayenne 7,no4 #djd71 essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 c4 are frequently adulterated with a colouring matter containing red lead66 ,see ,,accum on the ,adulteration of ,food1 #b;d edit4 #abmo4 #ahbj4 ,a scientific homme de bouche de ,france observes3 ,the generality of cooks calcine bones1 till they are as black as a coal1 and throw them hissing hot into the stew-pan1 to give a brown colour to their broths4 ,these ingredients1 under the appearance of a nourishing gravy1 envelope our food with stimulating acid and corrosive poison4 ,roux1 or thickening 7,no4 #beg71 if not made very carefully1 produces exactly the same effect2 and the juices of beef or veal1 burned over a hot fire1 to give a rich colour to soup or sauces1 grievously offend the stomach1 and create the most distressing indigestions4 ,the judicious cook will refuse the help of these incendiary articles1 which ignorance or quackery only employ2 not only at the expense of the credit of the cook1 but the health of her employers4 ,n4,b4 ,the best browning is good home-made glaze 7,no4 #beb71 mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or claret1 or port wine4 ,see also ,no4 #beg2 or cut meat into slices1 and broil them brown1 and then stew them4 ,gravy for roast ,meat4--7,no4 #cbf47 ,most joints will afford sufficient trimmings1 c4 to make half a pint of plain gravy1 which you may colour with a few drops of ,no4 #cbb3 for those that do not1 about half an hour before you think the meat will be done1 mix a salt-spoonful of salt1 with a full quarter pint of boiling water2 drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the joint2 set a dish under to catch it 7the meat will soon brown again72 set it by2 as it cools1 the fat will float on the surface2 when the meat is ready1 carefully remove the fat1 and warm up the gravy1 and pour it into the dish4 ,the common method is1 when the meat is in the dish you intend to send it up in1 to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a quarter pint of boiling water1 and to drop some of this over the corners and underside of the meat1 and to pour the rest through the hole the spit came out of3 some pierce the inferior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer4 ,the following receipt was given us by a very good cook3 ,you may make good browning for roast meat and poultry1 by saving the brown bits of roast meat or broiled2 cut them small1 put them into a basin1 cover them with boiling water1 and put them away till next day2 then put it into a saucepan1 let it boil two or three minutes1 strain it through a sieve into a basin1 and put it away for use4 ,when you want gravy for roast meat1 put two table-spoonfuls into half a pint of boiling water with a little salt3 if for roasted veal1 put three table-spoonfuls into half a pint of thin melted butter4 ,n4,b4 ,the gravy which comes down in the dish1 the cook 7if she is a good housewife7 will preserve to enrich hashes or little made dishes1 c4 ,obs4 ,some culinary professors1 who think nothing can be excellent that is not extravagant1 call this ,scots' gravy2 not1 ,i believe1 intending it1 as it certainly is1 a compliment to the laudable and rational frugality of that intelligent and sober-minded people4 ,n4,b4 ,this gravy should be brought to table in a sauce-boat2 preserve the intrinsic gravy which flows from the meat in the ,argyll4 ,gravy for boiled ,meat1--7,no4 #cbg47 ,may be made with parings and trimmings2 or pour from a quarter to half a pint of the liquor in which the meat was boiled1 into the dish with it1 and pierce the inferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer4 ,wow wow ,sauce for stewed or bouilli ,beef4--7,no4 #cbh47 ,chop some parsley-leaves very fine2 quarter two or three pickled cucumbers1 or walnuts1 and divide them into small squares1 and set them by ready3 put into a saucepan a bit of butter as big as an egg2 when it is melted1 stir to it a table-spoonful of fine flour1 and about half a pint of the broth in which the beef was boiled2 add a table-spoonful of vinegar1 the like quantity of mushroom catchup1 or port wine1 or both1 and a tea-spoonful of made mustard2 let it simmer together till it is as thick as you wish it2 put in the parsley and pickles to get warm1 and pour it over the beef2 or rather send it up in a sauce-tureen4 ,obs4 ,if you think the above not sufficiently piquante1 add to it some capers1 or a minced eschalot1 or one or two tea-spoonfuls of eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 or essence of anchovy1 or basil 7,no4 #cig71 elder1 or tarragon 7,no4 #cif71 or horseradish 7,no4 #cii9971 or burnet vinegar2 or strew over the meat carrots and turnips cut into dice1 minced capers1 walnuts1 red cabbage1 pickled cucumbers1 or ,french beans1 c4 ,beef-gravy ,sauce--7,no4 #cbi71 or ,brown ,sauce for ,ragot1 ,game1 ,poultry1 ,fish1 c4 ,if you want gravy immediately1 see ,no4 #cjg1 or ,no4 #beb4 ,if you have time enough1 furnish a thick and well-tinned stew-pan with a thin slice of fat ham or bacon1 or an ounce of butter1 and a middling-sized onion2 on this lay a pound of nice1 juicy gravy beef1 7as the object in making gravy is to extract the nutritious succulence of the meat1 it must be beaten to comminute the containing vessels1 and scored to augment the surface to the action of the water72 cover the stew-pan1 and set it on a slow fire2 when the meat begins to brown1 turn it about1 and let it get slightly browned 7but take care it is not at all burned73 then pour in a pint and a half of boiling water2 set the pan on the fire2 when it boils1 carefully catch the scum1 and then put in a crust of bread toasted brown 7don't burn it71 a sprig of winter savoury1 or lemon-thyme and parsley1 a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel1 a dozen berries of allspice1 and a dozen of black pepper2 cover the stew-pan close1 let it stew very gently for about two hours1 then strain it through a sieve into a basin4 ,if you wish to thicken it1 set a clean stew-pan over a slow fire1 with about an ounce of butter in it2 when it is melted1 dredge to it 7by degrees7 as much flour as will dry it up1 stirring them well together2 when thoroughly mixed1 pour in a little of the gravy2 stir it well together1 and add the remainder by degrees2 set it over the fire1 let it simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer1 and skim off the fat1 c4 as it rises2 when it is about as thick as cream1 squeeze it through a tamis1 or fine sieve1 and you will have a fine1 rich brown sauce1 at a very moderate expense1 and without much trouble4 ,obs4 ,if you wish to make it still more relishing1 if it is for poultry1 you may pound the liver with a bit of butter1 rub it through a sieve1 and stir it into the sauce when you put in the thickening4 ,for a ragot or game1 add at the same time a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 or ,no4 #cdc1bej-99 or ,no4 #dbi1 or a few drops of #dbb1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a roll of the rind pared thin1 a table-spoonful of port1 or other wine 7claret is best71 and a few grains of ,cayenne pepper2 or use double the quantity of meat2 or add a bit of glaze1 or portable soup 7,no4 #beb71 to it4 ,you may vary the flavour1 by sometimes adding a little basil1 or burnet wine 7,no4 #cig71 tarragon vinegar 7,no4 #cif71 or a wine-glass of quintessence of mushrooms 7,no4 #dej74 ,see the ,magazine of ,taste 7,no4 #dfb74 ,n4,b4 ,this is an excellent gravy2 and at a large dinner1 a pint of it should be placed at each end of the table2 you may make it equal to the most costly consomm of the ,parisian kitchen4 ,those families who are frequently in want of gravy1 sauces1 c4 7without plenty of which no cook can support the credit of her kitchen71 should keep a stock of portable soup or glaze 7,no4 #beb73 this will make gravy immediately4 ,game ,gravy4--7,no4 #ccg47 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #cbi4 ,orange-gravy ,sauce1 for wild ,ducks1 ,woodcocks1 ,snipes1 ,widgeon1 and ,teal1 c4--7,no4 #cch47 ,set on a saucepan with half a pint of veal gravy 7,no4 #aib71 add to it half a dozen leaves of basil1 a small onion1 and a roll of orange or lemon-peel1 and let it boil up for a few minutes1 and strain it off4 ,put to the clear gravy the juice of a ,seville orange1 or lemon1 half a tea-spoonful of salt1 the same of pepper1 and a glass of red wine2 send it up hot4 ,eschalot and ,cayenne may be added4 ,obs4--,this is an excellent sauce for all kinds of wild water-fowl4 ,the common way of gashing the breast and squeezing in an orange1 cools and hardens the flesh1 and compels every one to eat duck that way3 some people like wild fowl very little done1 and without any sauce4 ,gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat3 they keep hot longer2 and it leaves it to the choice of the company to partake of them or not1 ,bonne ,bouche for ,goose1 ,duck1 or roast ,pork4--7,no4 #cda47 ,mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard1 a salt-spoonful of salt1 and a few grains of ,cayenne1 in a large wine-glassful of claret or port wine2#bea-99 pour it into the goose by a slit in the apron just before serving up2#bea- or1 as all the company may not like it1 stir it into a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter1 or thickened gravy1 and send it up in a boat4 ,see also ,sage and ,onion ,sauce1 ,no4 #cjj4 ,or1 ,a favourite relish for roast pork or geese1 c4 is1 two ounces of leaves of green sage1 an ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared thin1 same of salt1 minced eschalot1 and half a drachm of ,cayenne pepper1 ditto of citric acid1 steeped for a fortnight in a pint of claret2 shake it up well every day2 let it stand a day to settle1 and decant the clear liquor2 bottle it1 and cork it close2 a table-spoonful or more in a quarter pint of gravy1 or melted butter4 ,robert ,sauce for roast ,pork1 or ,geese1 c4--7,no4 #cdb47 ,put an ounce of butter into a pint stew-pan3 when it is melted1 add to it half an ounce of onion minced very fine2 turn it with a wooden spoon till it takes a light brown colour2 then stir in a table-spoonful of flour1 a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup 7with or without the like quantity of port wine71 half a pint of broth or water1 and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper1 the same of salt2 give them a boil2 then add a tea-spoonful of mustard1 and the juice of half a lemon1 or one or two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar or basil 7,no4 #cig71 or tarragon 7,no4 #cif71 or burnet vinegar 7,no4 #cii74 ,obs4--,the ,french call this ,,sauce ,,robert 7from the name of the cook who invented it71 and are very fond of it with many things1 which ,,mary ,,smith1 in the ,complete ,housekeeper1 #hvo4 #aggb1 p4 #aje1 translates ,,roe-,,boat-,,sauce4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #ebi4 ,turtle ,sauce4--7,no4 #cdc47 ,put into your stew-pan a pint of beef gravy thickened 7,no4 #cbi72 add to this some of the following--essence of turtle1 7,no4 #cdc9971 or a wine-glassful of ,madeira1 the juice and peel of half a lemon1 a few leaves of basil1#beb-99 an eschalot quartered1 a few grains of ,cayenne pepper1 or curry powder1 and a little essence of anchovy2 let them simmer together for five minutes1 and strain through a tamis3 you may introduce a dozen turtle forcemeat balls4 ,see receipt1 ,no4 #chj1 c4 ,obs4--,this is the sauce for boiled or hashed calf's head1 stewed veal1 or any dish you dress turtle fashion4 ,the far-fetched and dear-bought turtle owes its high rank on the list of savoury bonne bouches to the relishing and piquante sauce that is made for it2 without1 it would be as insipid as any other fish is without sauce4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #dic4 ,essence of ,turtle4--7,no4 #cdc9947 ,essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 one wine-glassful4 ,eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 one and a half ditto4 ,basil wine 7,no4 #cig71 four ditto4 ,mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 two ditto4 ,concrete lemon acid1 one drachm1 or some artificial lemon-juice 7,no4 #djg9974 ,lemon-peel1 very thinly pared1 three-quarters of an ounce4 ,curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 a quarter of an ounce4 ,steep for a week1 to get the flavour of the lemon-peel1 c4 ,obs4--,this is very convenient to extemporaneously turtlefy soup1 sauce1 or potted meats1 ragots1 savoury patties1 pies1 c4 c4 ,wine ,sauce for ,venison or ,hare4--7,no4 #cdd47 ,a quarter of a pint of claret or port wine1 the same quantity of plain1 unflavoured mutton gravy 7,no4 #cdg71 and a table-spoonful of currant jelly3 let it just boil up1 and send it to table in a sauce-boat4 ,sharp ,sauce for ,venison4--7,no4 #cde47 ,put into a silver1 or very clean and well-tinned saucepan1 half a pint of the best white wine vinegar1 and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded3 set it over the fire1 and let it simmer gently2 skim it carefully2 pour it through a tamis or fine sieve1 and send it up in a basin4 ,obs4--,some people like this better than the sweet wine sauces4 ,sweet ,sauce for ,venison or ,hare4--7,no4 #cdf47 ,put some currant-jelly into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 pour it into a sauce-boat4 ,n4,b4 ,many send it to table without melting4 ,to make currant-jelly1 see ,no4 #dgi994 ,this is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt1 when the palate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked4 ,currant-jelly is a good accompaniment to roasted or hashed meats4 ,mutton ,gravy for ,venison or ,hare4--7,no4 #cdg47 ,the best gravy for venison is that made with the trimmings of the joint3 if this is all used1 and you have no undressed venison1 cut a scrag of mutton in pieces2 broil it a little brown2 then put it into a clean stew-pan1 with a quart of boiling water2 cover it close1 and let it simmer gently for an hour3 now uncover the stew-pan1 and let it reduce to three-quarters of a pint2 pour it through a hair-sieve2 take the fat off1 and send it up in a boat4 ,it is only to be seasoned with a little salt1 that it may not overpower the natural flavour of the meat4 ,you may colour it with a very little of ,no4 #cbb4 ,n4,b4 ,some prefer the unseasoned beef gravy1 ,no4 #ahf1 which you may make in five minutes with ,no4 #beb4 ,,the ,,queen',s ,,gravy ,,of ,,mutton1 as made by her ,majesty's ,escuyer de ,cuisine1 ,monsieur ,la ,montagne4 ,roast a juicy leg of mutton three-quarters2 then gash it in several places1 and press out the juice by a screw-press4--,from ,,sir ,,kenelm ,,digby',s ,cookery1 #ahmo4 ,london1 #affi4 ,curry ,sauce1--7,no4 #cdh47 ,is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of curry stuff1 7,no4 #dee7 into gravy or melted butter1 or onion sauce 7,nos4 #big1 #bih71 or onion gravy 7,no4 #bii1 or ,no4 #cci74 ,the compositions of curry powder1 and the palates of those who eat it1 vary so much1 that we cannot recommend any specific quantity4 ,the cook must add it by degrees1 tasting as she proceeds1 and take care not to put in too much4 ,obs4--,the curry powder 7,no4 #dee7 approximates more nearly to the best ,indian curry stuff1 and is an agreeable and well-blended mixture of this class of aromatics4 ,n4,b4 ,to dress curries1 see ,no4 #dig4 ,essence of ,ham4--7,no4 #cea47 ,essence of ham and of beef may be purchased at the eating-houses which cut up those joints2 the former for half a crown or three shillings a quart3 it is therefore a most economical relish for made-dishes1 and to give piquance to sauces1 c4 ,grill ,sauce4--7,no4 #cee47 ,to half a pint of gravy 7,no4 #cbi71 add an ounce of fresh butter1 and a table-spoonful of flour1 previously well rubbed together1 the same of mushroom or walnut catchup1 two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice1 one of made mustard1 one of minced capers1 half a one of black pepper1 a quarter of a rind of a lemon grated very thin1 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies1 and a little eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 or a very small piece of minced eschalot1 and a little ,chili vinegar 7,no4 #dje71 or a few grains of ,cayenne2 simmer together for a few minutes2 pour a little of it over the grill1 and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen4 ,for anchovy toasts1 ,no4 #egc1 or ,no4 #ech4 ,or1 ,sauce la ,tartare4 ,pound in a mortar three hard yelks of eggs2 put them into a basin1 and add half a table-spoonful of made mustard1 and a little pepper and salt2 pour to it by degrees1 stirring it fast all the while1 about two wine-glassfuls of salad oil2 stir it together till it comes to a good thickness4 ,n4,b4 ,a little tarragon or chervil minced very fine1 and a little vinegar1 may be added2 or some of the ingredients enumerated in ,no4 #cgb4 ,obs4--,this from the ,french artist who wrote the receipt for dressing a turtle4 ,mem4--,these are piquante relishes for anchovy toasts 7,no4 #egc1 or ,no4 #ech72 for ,,broiled ,,devils1 c4 ,vritable sauce d'enfer1 see ,no4 #ech2 and a refreshing excitement for those idle palates1 who are as incessantly mumbling out piquante1 piquante1 as parrots do pretty ,poll1 pretty ,poll4 ,for palates grown callous almost to disease1 ,who peppers the highest is surest to please4 ,,goldsmith4 ,sauce for ,steaks1 or ,chops1 ,cutlets1 c4--7,no4 #cef4 ,see also ,no4 #cca47 ,take your chops out of the frying-pan2 for a pound of meat keep a table-spoonful of the fat in the pan1 or put in about an ounce of butter2 put to it as much flour as will make it a paste2 rub it well together over the fire till they are a little brown2 then add as much boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of good cream1 and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup1 or pickle1 or browning 7,no4 #cbb1 or ,no4 #ddi72 let it boil together a few minutes1 and pour it through a sieve to the steaks1 c4 ,obs4--,to the above is sometimes added a sliced onion1 or a minced eschalot1 with a table-spoonful of port wine1 or a little eschalot wine 7,nos4 #djb1 #dbc1 or #ace74 ,garnish with finely-scraped horseradish1 or pickled walnuts1 gherkins1 c4 ,some beef-eaters like chopped eschalots in one saucer1 and horseradish grated in vinegar1 in another4 ,broiled mushrooms are favourite relishes to beef-steaks4 ,sauce ,piquante for cold ,meat1 ,game1 ,poultry1 ,fish1 c4 or ,salads4--7,no4 #cei4 ,see also ,no4 #cgb1 and ,cucumber ,vinegar1 ,nos4 #cii and #dec47 ,pound in a mortar the yelks of two eggs that have been boiled hard 7,no4 #edg71 with a mustard-spoonful of made mustard1 and a little pepper and salt2 add two table-spoonfuls of salad oil2 mix well1 and then add three table-spoonfuls of vinegar2 rub it up well till it is quite smooth1 and pass it through a tamis or sieve4 ,obs4--,to the above1 some add an anchovy1 or a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 or walnut pickle1 some finely-chopped parsley1 grated horseradish1 or young onions minced1 or burnet 7,no4 #cii71 horseradish 7,no4 #cii991 or ,no4 #djb71 or tarragon1 or elder vinegar 7,no4 #cif71 c41 and ,cayenne or minced pickles1 capers1 c4 ,this is a piquante relish for lobsters1 crabs1 cold fish1 c4 ,sauce for ,hashes of ,mutton or ,beef4--7,no4 #cfj4 ,see also ,nos4 #dea1 #dhe1 and to make ,plain ,hash1 ,no4 #dhf47 ,unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the palate of those you are working for1 show those who are to eat the hash this receipt1 and beg of them to direct you how they wish it seasoned4 ,half the number of the ingredients enumerated will be more than enough3 but as it is a receipt so often wanted we have given variety4 ,see also ,no4 #dhf4 ,to prepare the meat1 see ,no4 #dhd4 ,chop the bones and fragments of the joint1 c41 and put them into a stew-pan2 cover them with boiling water1 six berries of black pepper1 the same of allspice1 a small bundle of parsley1 half a head of celery cut in pieces1 and a small sprig of savoury1 or lemon-thyme1 or sweet marjoram2 cover up1 and let it simmer gently for half an hour4 ,slice half an ounce of onion1 and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter2 fry it over a sharp fire for about a couple of minutes1 till it takes a little colour2 then stir in as much flour as will make it a stiff paste1 and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made from the bones1 c42 let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour1 till it is the consistence of cream2 strain it through a tamis or sieve into a basin2 put it back into the stew-pan3 to season it1 see ,no4 #dea1 or cut in a few pickled onions1 or walnuts1 or a couple of gherkins1 and a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 or walnut or other pickle liquor2 or some capers1 and caper liquor2 or a table-spoonful of ale2 or a little eschalot1 or tarragon vinegar2 cover the bottom of the dish with sippets of bread 7that they may become savoury reservoirs of gravy71 which some toast and cut into triangles4 ,you may garnish it with fried bread sippets 7,no4 #cai74 ,n4,b4 ,to hash meat in perfection1 it should be laid in this gravy only just long enough to get properly warm through4 ,obs4 ,if any of the gravy that was sent up with1 or ran from the joint when it was roasted1 be left1 it will be a great improvement to the hash4 ,if you wish to make mock venison1 instead of the onion1 put in two or three cloves1 a table-spoonful of currant jelly1 and the same quantity of claret or port wine1 instead of the catchup4 ,you may make a curry hash by adding some of ,no4 #dee4 ,n4,b4 ,a pint of ,no4 #cbi is an excellent gravy to warm up either meat or poultry4 ,sauce for hashed or minced ,veal4--7,no4 #cfa4 ,see ,no4 #eaa47 ,take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal1 dredge them well with flour1 and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of broth or water1 a small onion1 a little grated or finely-minced lemon-peel1 or the peel of a quarter of a small lemon1 pared as thin as possible1 half a tea-spoonful of salt1 and a blade of pounded mace2 to thicken it1 rub a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce of butter2 stir it into the broth1 and set it on the fire1 and let it boil very gently for about half an hour2 strain through a tamis or sieve1 and it is ready to put to the veal to warm up2 which is to be done by placing the stew-pan by the side of the fire4 ,squeeze in half a lemon1 and cover the bottom of the dish with toasted bread sippets cut into triangles1 and garnish the dish with slices of ham or bacon4 ,see ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg4 ,bechamel1 by ,english ,cooks commonly called ,white ,sauce4 7,no4 #cfd47 ,cut in square pieces1 half an inch thick1 two pounds of lean veal1 half a pound of lean ham2 melt in a stew-pan two ounces of butter2 when melted1 let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the bottom 7it requires great attention1 as1 if it happen to catch at the bottom of the stew-pan1 it will spoil the look of your sauce72 then add to it three table-spoonfuls of flour2 when well mixed1 add to it three pints of broth or water 7pour a little at a time1 that the thickening be smooth72 stir it until it boil2 put the stew-pan on the corner of the stove to boil gently for two hours2 season it with four cloves1 one onion1 twelve pepper-corns1 a blade of mace1 a few mushrooms and a fagot made of parsley1 a sprig of thyme1 and a bay-leaf4 ,let the sauce reduce to a quart1 skim the fat off1 and strain it through a tamis cloth4 ,to make a bechamel sauce1 add to a quart of the above a pint of good cream2 stir it until it is reduced to a good thickness2 a few mushrooms give a good flavour to that sauce2 strain it through a tamis cloth4 ,obs4 ,the above was given us by a ,french artist4 ,a more economical ,method of making a ,pint of ,white ,sauce4--7,no4 #cfd--b47 ,put equal parts of broth and milk into a stew-pan with an onion and a blade of mace2 set it on the fire to boil ten minutes2 have ready and rub together on a plate an ounce of flour and butter2 put it into the stew-pan2 stir it well till it boils up2 then stand it near the fire or stove1 stirring it every now and then till it becomes quite smooth2 then strain it through a sieve into a basin2 put it back into the stew-pan2 season it with salt and the juice of a small lemon2 beat up the yelks of two eggs well with about three table-spoonfuls of milk1 strain it through a sieve into your sauce1 stir it well and keep it near the fire1 but be sure and do not let it boil1 for it will curdle4 ,obs4 ,a convenient veil for boiled fowls1 c4 whose complexions are not inviting4 ,mem4 ,with the assistance of the ,magazine of ,taste 7,no4 #dfb7 you may give this sauce a variety of flavours4 ,obs4 ,bechamel implies a thick white sauce1 approaching to a batter1 and takes its name from a wealthy ,french ,marquis1 matre d'htel de ,louis ,,xiv41 and famous for his patronage of les ,officiers de ,bouche1 who have immortalized him1 by calling by his name this delicate composition4 ,most of the ,french sauces take their name from the person whose palate they first pleased1 as la ,maintenon2 or from some famous cook who invented them1 as ,sauce ,robert1 la ,montizeur1 c4 ,we have in the ,english kitchen1 our ,argyll for gravy1 and the little ,sandwich1 monumentum re perennius4 ----,and thus ,,monteith ,has1 by one vessel1 saved his name from death4 ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery4 ,poivrade ,sauce4--7,no4 #cfe47 ,this1 as its title tells us1 is a sauce of ,french extraction4 ,the following receipt is from ,la ,cuisinire ,bourgeoise1 page #djh4 ,put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan with two or three bits of onion1 carrot1 and turnip1 cut in slices1 two eschalots1 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 thyme1 and basil2 keep turning them in the pan till they get a little colour2 shake in some flour1 and add a glass of red wine1 a glass of water1 a spoonful of vinegar1 and a little pepper and salt2 boil half an hour2 skim and strain it4 ,mustard in a minute4--7,no4 #cfi47 ,mix very gradually1 and rub together in a mortar1 an ounce of flour of mustard1 with three table-spoonfuls of milk 7cream is better71 half a tea-spoonful of salt1 and the same of sugar2 rub them well together till quite smooth4 ,obs4 ,mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter1 and is therefore instantly ready for the table4 ,n4,b4 ,it has been said that flour of mustard is sometimes adulterated with common flour1 c4 c4 ,mustard4--7,no4 #cgj47 ,mix 7by degrees1 by rubbing together in a mortar7 the best ,durham flour of mustard1 with vinegar1 white wine1 or cold water1 in which scraped horseradish has been boiled2 rub it well together for at least ten minutes1 till it is perfectly smooth2 it will keep in a stone jar closely stopped1 for a fortnight3 only put as much into the mustard-pot as will be used in a day or two4 ,the ready-made mustard prepared at the oil shops is mixed with about one-fourth part salt3 this is done to preserve it1 if it is to be kept long2 otherwise1 by all means1 omit it4 ,the best way of eating salt is in substance4 99499 ,see also recipe ,no4 #dbg4 ,obs4 ,mustard is the best of all the stimulants that are employed to give energy to the digestive organs4 ,it was in high favour with our forefathers2 in the ,northumberland ,household ,book for #aeab1 p4 #ah1 is an order for an annual supply of #afj gallons of mustard4 ,some opulent epicures mix it with sherry or ,madeira wine1 or distilled or flavoured vinegar1 instead of horseradish water4 ,the ,french flavour their mustard with ,champaigne and other wines1 or with vinegar flavoured with capers1 anchovies1 tarragon1 elder1 basil1 burnet1 garlic1 eschalot1 or celery1 see ,no4 #cie to ,no4 #djb3 warming it with ,cayenne1 or the various spices2 sweet1 savoury1 fine herbs1 truffles1 catchup1 c4 c41 and seem to consider mustard merely as a vehicle of flavours4 ,n4,b4 ,in ,mons4 ,maille et ,aclocque's catalogue of ,parisian ,bono ,bons1 there is a list of twenty-eight differently flavoured mustards4 ,salt1--7,no4 #cga47 ,is 7aliorum condimentorum condimentum1 as ,plutarch calls it17 sauce for sauce4 ,common salt is more relishing than basket salt2 it should be prepared for the table by drying it in a ,dutch oven before the fire2 then put it on a clean paper1 and roll it with a rolling pin2 if you pound it in a mortar till it is quite fine1 it will look as well as basket salt4 ,malden salt is still more piquante4 99499 ,select for table-use the lumps of salt4 ,obs4 ,your salt-box must have a close cover1 and be kept in a dry place4 ,salad mixture4--7,no4 #cgb4 ,see also ,nos4 #ach99 and #dec47 ,endeavour to have your salad herbs as fresh as possible2 if you suspect they are not morning gathered1 they will be much refreshed by lying an hour or two in spring-water2 then carefully wash and pick them1 and trim off all the worm-eaten1 slimy1 cankered1 dry leaves2 and1 after washing1 let them remain a while in the colander to drain3 lastly1 swing them gently in a clean napkin3 when properly picked and cut1 arrange them in the salad dish1 mix the sauce in a soup plate1 and put it into an ingredient bottle1#bfj-99 or pour it down the side of the salad dish1 and don't stir it up till the mouths are ready for it4 ,if the herbs be young1 fresh gathered1 trimmed neatly1 and drained dry1 and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the following directions1 he cannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished salad-dresser4 ,boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes1 and put them in a basin of cold water for a few minutes2 the yelks must be quite cold and hard1 or they will not incorporate with the ingredients4 ,rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon1 and mix them with a table-spoonful of water1 or fine double cream2 then add two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted butter2 when these are well mixed1 add1 by degrees1 a tea-spoonful of salt1 or powdered lump sugar1 and the same of made mustard3 when these are smoothly united1 add very gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar2 rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorporated with them2 cut up the white of the egg1 and garnish the top of the salad with it4 ,let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl1 and do not stir up the salad till it is to be eaten3 we recommend the eaters to be mindful of the duty of mastication1 without the due performance of which1 all undressed vegetables are troublesome company for the principal viscera1 and some are even dangerously indigestible4 ,boiled ,salad4 ,this is best compounded of boiled or baked onions 7if ,portugal the better71 some baked beet-root1 cauliflower1 or broccoli1 and boiled celery and ,french beans1 or any of these articles1 with the common salad dressing2 added to this1 to give it an enticing appearance1 and to give some of the crispness and freshness so pleasant in salad1 a small quantity of raw endive1 or lettuce and chervil1 or burnet1 strewed on the top3 this is by far more wholesome than the raw salad1 and is much eaten when put on the table4 ,n4,b4 ,the above sauce is equally good with cold meat1 cold fish1 or for cucumbers1 celery1 radishes1 c4 and all the other vegetables that are sent to table undressed3 to the above1 a little minced onion is generally an acceptable addition4 ,obs4 ,salad is a very compound dish with our neighbours the ,french1 who always add to the mixture above1 black pepper1 and sometimes savoury spice4 ,the ,italians mince the white meat of chickens into this sauce4 ,the ,dutch1 cold boiled turbot or lobster2 or add to it a spoonful of grated parmesan or old ,cheshire cheese1 or mince very fine a little tarragon1 or chervil1 burnet1 or young onion1 celery1 or pickled gherkins1 c4 ,joan ,cromwell's grand salad was composed of equal parts of almonds1 raisins1 capers1 pickled cucumbers1 shrimps1 and boiled turnips4 ,this mixture is sometimes made with cream1 oiled butter 7see ,no4 #bfj9971 or some good jelly of meat 7which many prefer to the finest ,florence oil71 and flavoured with salad mixture 7,no4 #dec71 basil 7,no4 #cig71 or cress or celery vinegar 7,no4 #cig9971 horseradish vinegar 7,no4 #cii9971 cucumber vinegar 7,no4 #cii71 and ,obs4 to ,no4 #aaf of the ,appendix2 tarragon1 or elder vinegar1 essence of celery 7,no4 #dji71 walnut or lemon pickle1 or a slice of lemon cut into dice1 and essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,forcemeat ,stuffings4--7,no4 #cgc47 ,forcemeat is now considered an indispensable accompaniment to most made dishes1 and when composed with good taste1 gives additional spirit and relish to even that sovereign of savouriness1 turtle soup4 ,it is also sent up in patties1 and for stuffing of veal1 game1 poultry1 c4 ,the ingredients should be so proportioned1 that no one flavour predominates4 ,to give the same stuffing for veal1 hare1 c4 argues a poverty of invention2 with a little contrivance1 you may make as great a variety as you have dishes4 ,i have given receipts for some of the most favourite compositions1 and a table of materials1 a glance at which will enable the ingenious cook to make an infinite variety of combinations3 the first column containing the spirit1 the second the substance of them4 ,the poignancy of forcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness of the viands1 to which it is intended to give an additional zest4 ,some dishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat1 for others1 it must be full and high seasoned4 ,what would be piquante in a turkey1 would be insipid with turtle4 ,tastes are so different1 and the praise the cook receives will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for1 that all her sagacity must be on the alert1 to produce the flavours to which her employers are partial4 ,see pages #de and #df4 ,most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings1 c41 and what exactly pleases one1 seldom is precisely what another considers the most agreeable3 and after all the contrivance of a pains-taking palatician1 to combine her hauts gots in the most harmonious proportions1 ,the very dish one likes the best1 ,is acid1 or insipid1 to the rest4 ,custom is all in all in matters of taste3 it is not that one person is naturally fond of this or that1 and another naturally averse to it2 but that one is used to it1 and another is not4 ,the consistency of forcemeats is rather a difficult thing to manage2 they are almost always either too light or too heavy4 ,take care to pound it till perfectly smooth1 and that all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated4 ,forcemeat-balls must not be larger than a small nutmeg4 ,if they are for brown sauce1 flour and fry them2 if for white1 put them into boiling water1 and boil them for three minutes3 the latter are by far the most delicate4 ,n4,b4 ,if not of sufficient stiffness1 it falls to pieces1 and makes soup1 c4 grouty and very unsightly4 ,sweetbreads and tongues are the favourite materials for forcemeat4 ,,materials ,,used ,,for ,,forcemeat1 ,,stuffings1 ,c4 ,,spirit4 ,common thyme4 ,lemon-thyme4 ,orange-thyme4 ,sweet marjoram4 ,summer and ,winter savoury4 ,fresh and green1 ,sage4 or in dried ,tarragon 7,no4 #cif74 powder 7,no4 #dfa74 ,chervil4 ,burnet 7,no4 #cii74 ,basil 7,no4 #cig74 ,bay-leaf4 ,truffles and ,morells4 ,mushroom powder 7,no4 #dci74 ,leeks4 ,onions4 ,eschalot 7,no4 #djb74 ,garlic4 ,lemon-peel 7see ,nos4 #djg and #djh74 ,shrimps 7,no4 #age7 ,prawns4 ,crabs4 ,lobsters 7,nos4 #agf and #agh74 ,oysters4 ,anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,dressed ,,tongue 7see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #cgc74 ,ham4 ,bacon4 ,black or white pepper4 ,allspice4 ,mace4 ,cinnamon ,ginger4 ,nutmegs4 ,cloves4 ,capers and pickles 7minced or pounded7 ,savoury powder 7,no4 #dfe74 ,soup herb powder 7,no4 #dfg74 ,curry powder 7,no4 #dee74 ,cayenne 7,no4 #djd74 ,zest 7,no4 #bee74 ,,substances4 ,flour4 ,crumbs of bread4 ,parsley 7see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bfa74 ,spinage4 ,boiled onion4 ,mashed potatoes 7,no4 #ajf74 ,yelks of hard eggs 7,no4 #egd74 ,mutton4 ,beef4 ,veal suet1#bfc-99 or marrow4 ,calf's udder1 or brains4 ,parboiled sweetbread4 ,veal1 minced and pounded1 and ,potted meats1 c4 7,no4 #ejc47 ,for liquids1 you have meat gravy1 lemon-juice1 syrup of lemons 7,nos4 #cia and #dgg71 essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 the various vegetable essences 7,no4 #djg71 mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 and the whites and yelks of eggs1 wines1 and the essence of spices4 ,stuffing for ,veal1 roast ,turkey1 ,fowl1 c4--7,no4 #cgd47 ,mince a quarter of a pound of beef suet 7beef marrow is better71 the same weight of bread-crumbs1 two drachms of parsley-leaves1 a drachm and a half of sweet marjoram or lemon-thyme1 and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion chopped as fine as possible1 a little pepper and salt2 pound thoroughly together with the yelk and white of two eggs1 and secure it in the veal with a skewer1 or sew it in with a bit of thread4 ,make some of it into balls or sausages2 flour them1 and boil1 or fry them1 and send them up as a garnish1 or in a side dish1 with roast poultry1 veal1 or cutlets1 c4 ,n4,b4 ,this is about the quantity for a turkey poult3 a very large turkey will take nearly twice as much4 ,to the above may be added an ounce of dressed ham2 or use equal parts of the above stuffing and pork sausage meat 7,no4 #hg47 pounded well together4 ,obs4 ,good stuffing has always been considered a chef-d'oeuvre in cookery3 it has given immortality to ,poor ,roger ,fowler1 who'd a generous mind1 ,nor would submit to have his hand confin'd1 ,but aimed at all1--yet never could excel ,in any thing but stuffing of his veal4 ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery1 p4 #aac4 ,veal ,forcemeat4--7,no4 #cge47 ,of undressed lean veal 7after you have scraped it quite fine1 and free from skin and sinews71 two ounces1 the same quantity of beef or veal suet1 and the same of bread-crumbs2 chop fine two drachms of parsley1 one of lemon-peel1 one of sweet herbs1 one of onion1 and half a drachm of mace1 or allspice1 beaten to fine powder2 pound all together in a mortar2 break into it the yelk and white of an egg2 rub it all up well together1 and season it with a little pepper and salt4 ,obs4--,this may be made more savoury by the addition of cold boiled pickled tongue1 anchovy1 eschalot1 ,cayenne or curry powder1 c4 ,stuffing for ,turkeys or ,fowls1 c4--7,no4 #cgg47 ,take the foregoing composition for the roast turkey1 or add the soft part of a dozen oysters to it3 an anchovy1 or a little grated ham1 or tongue1 if you like it1 is still more relishing4 ,fill the craw of the fowl1 c42 but do not cram it so as to disfigure its shape4 ,pork sausage meat is sometimes used to stuff turkeys and fowls2 or fried1 and sent up as a garnish4 ,goose or ,duck ,stuffing4--7,no4 #cgh47 ,chop very fine about two ounces of onion1 of green sage-leaves about an ounce 7both unboiled71 four ounces of bread-crumbs1 a bit of butter about as big as a walnut1 c41 the yelk and white of an egg1 and a little pepper and salt3 some add to this a minced apple4 ,for another1 see roasted goose and duck 7,nos4 #ei and #fa71 which latter we like as forcemeat-balls for mock turtle2 then add a little lemon-peel1 and warm it with ,cayenne4 ,stuffing for ,hare4--7,no4 #cgi47 ,two ounces of beef suet chopped fine2 three ounces of fine bread-crumbs2 parsley1 a drachm2 eschalot1 half a drachm2 a drachm of marjoram1 lemon-thyme1 or winter savoury2 a drachm of grated lemon-peel1 and the same of pepper and salt3 mix these with the white and yelk of an egg2 do not make it thin--it must be of cohesive consistence3 if your stuffing is not stiff enough1 it will be good for nothing3 put it in the hare1 and sew it up4 99499 ,if the liver is quite sound1 you may parboil it1 and mince it very fine1 and add it to the above4 ,forcemeat-,balls for ,turtle1 ,mock ,turtle1 or ,made ,dishes4 7,no4 #chj4 ,see also ,no4 #cge47 ,pound some veal in a marble mortar2 rub it through a sieve with as much of the udder as you have veal1 or about a third of the quantity of butter3 put some bread-crumbs into a stew-pan1 moisten them with milk1 add a little chopped parsley and eschalot1 rub them well together in a mortar till they form a smooth paste2 put it through a sieve1 and1 when cold1 pound1 and mix all together1 with the yelks of three eggs boiled hard2 season it with salt1 pepper1 and curry powder1 or ,cayenne2 add to it the yelks of two raw eggs2 rub it well together1 and make small balls3 ten minutes before your soup is ready1 put them in4 ,egg ,balls4--7,no4 #cha47 ,boil four eggs for ten minutes1 and put them into cold water2 when they are quite cold1 put the yelks into a mortar with the yelk of a raw egg1 a tea-spoonful of flour1 same of chopped parsley1 as much salt as will lie on a shilling1 and a little black pepper1 or ,cayenne2 rub them well together1 roll them into small balls 7as they swell in boiling72 boil them a couple of minutes4 ,brain ,balls4 ,see ,no4 #bdg1 or beat up the brains of a calf in the way we have above directed the egg4 ,curry ,balls for ,mock ,turtle1 ,veal1 ,poultry1 ,made ,dishes1 c4 7,no4 #chb47 ,are made with bread-crumbs1 the yelk of an egg boiled hard1 and a bit of fresh butter about half as big1 beaten together in a mortar1 and seasoned with curry powder 7,no4 #dee73 make and prepare small balls1 as directed in ,no4 #cha4 ,fish ,forcemeat4--7,no4 #chc47 ,take two ounces of either turbot1 sole1 lobster1 shrimps1 or oysters2 free from skin1 put it in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter1 one ounce of bread-crumbs1 the yelk of two eggs boiled-hard1 and a little eschalot1 grated lemon-peel1 and parsley1 minced very fine2 then pound it well till it is thoroughly mixed and quite smooth2 season it with salt and ,cayenne to your taste2 break in the yelk and white of one egg1 rub it well together1 and it is ready for use4 ,oysters parboiled and minced fine1 and an anchovy1 may be added4 ,zest ,balls4--7,no4 #chf4 ,see ,no4 #bee47 ,prepared in the same way as ,no4 #cha4 ,orange or ,lemon-peel1 to mix with ,stuffing4--7,no4 #chg47 ,peel a ,seville orange1 or lemon1 very thin1 taking off only the fine yellow rind 7without any of the white72 pound it in a mortar with a bit of lump sugar2 rub it well with the peel2 by degrees add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed with3 when it is well ground and blended with this1 mix it with the whole3 there is no other way of incorporating it so well4 ,forcemeats1 c4 are frequently spoiled by the insufficient mixing of the ingredients4 ,clouted or ,clotted ,cream4--7,no4 #chh47 ,the milk which is put into the pans one morning stands till the next2 then set the pan on a hot hearth1 or in a copper tray#bfg-99 half full of water2 put this over a stove2 in from ten to twenty minutes1 according to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan1 it will be done enough2 the sign of which is1 that bladders rise on its surface2 this denotes that it is near boiling1 which it must by no means do2 and it must be instantly removed from the fire1 and placed in the dairy till the next morning1 when the fine cream is thrown up1 and is ready for the table1 or for butter1 into which it is soon converted by stirring it with the hand4 ,n4,b4 ,this receipt we have not proved4 ,raspberry ,vinegar4--7,no4 #cij47 ,the best way to make this1 is to pour three pints of the best white wine vinegar on a pint and a half of fresh-gathered red raspberries in a stone jar1 or ,china bowl 7neither glazed earthenware1 nor any metallic vessel1 must be used72 the next day strain the liquor over a like quantity of fresh raspberries2 and the day following do the same4 ,then drain off the liquor without pressing1 and pass it through a jelly bag 7previously wetted with plain vinegar7 into a stone jar1 with a pound of pounded lump sugar to each pint4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 stir it up1 cover down the jar1 and set it in a saucepan of water1 and keep it boiling for an hour1 taking off the scum2 add to each pint a glass of brandy1 and bottle it3 mixed in about eight parts of water1 it is a very refreshing and delightful summer drink4 ,an excellent cooling beverage to assuage thirst in ardent fevers1 colds1 and inflammatory complaints1 c4 and is agreeable to most palates4 ,see ,no4 #dgi994 ,n4,b4 ,we have not proved this receipt4 ,syrup of ,lemons4--7,no4 #cia47 ,the best season for lemons is from ,november to ,march4 ,put a pint of fresh lemon-juice to a pound and three-quarters of lump sugar2 dissolve it by a gentle heat2 skim it till the surface is quite clear2 add an ounce of thin-cut lemon-peel2 let them simmer 7very gently7 together for a few minutes1 and run it through a flannel4 ,when cold1 bottle and cork it closely1 and keep it in a cool place4 ,or1 ,dissolve a quarter of an ounce 7avoirdupois7 of citric1 i4 e4 crystallized lemon acid1 in a pint of clarified syrup 7,no4 #dge72 flavour it with the peel1 with ,no4 #djh1 or dissolve the acid in equal parts of simple syrup 7,no4 #dge71 and syrup of lemon-peel1 as made ,no4 #cic4 ,the ,justice's ,orange ,syrup for ,punch or ,puddings4--7,no4 #cib47 ,squeeze the oranges1 and strain the juice from the pulp into a large pot2 boil it up with a pound and a half of fine sugar to each point of juice2 skim it well2 let it stand till cold2 then bottle it1 and cork it well4 ,obs4--,this makes a fine1 soft1 mellow-flavoured punch2 and1 added to melted butter1 is a good relish to puddings4 ,syrup of ,orange or ,lemon-peel4--7,no4 #cic47 ,of fresh outer rind of ,seville orange or lemon-peel1 three ounces1 apothecaries' weight2 boiling water a pint and a half2 infuse them for a night in a close vessel2 then strain the liquor3 let it stand to settle2 and having poured it off clear from the sediment1 dissolve in it two pounds of double-refined loaf sugar1 and make it into a syrup with a gentle heat4 ,obs4--,in making this syrup1 if the sugar be dissolved in the infusion with as gentle a heat as possible1 to prevent the exhalation of the volatile parts of the peel1 this syrup will possess a great share of the fine flavour of the orange1 or lemon-peel4 ,vinegar for ,salads4--7,no4 #cie47 ,take of tarragon1 savoury1 chives1 eschalots1 three ounces each2 a handful of the tops of mint and balm1 all dry and pounded2 put into a wide-mouthed bottle1 with a gallon of best vinegar2 cork it close1 set it in the sun1 and in a fortnight strain off1 and squeeze the herbs2 let it stand a day to settle1 and then strain it through a filtering bag4 ,from ,,parmentier',s ,art de faire les ,vinaigres1 #hvo4 #ahje1 p4 #bje4 ,tarragon ,vinegar4--7,no4 #cif47 ,this is a very agreeable addition to soups1 salad sauce 7,no4 #dee71 and to mix mustard 7,no4 #cgj74 ,fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered tarragon-leaves1 i4 e4 between midsummer and ,michaelmas 7which should be gathered on a dry day1 just before it flowers71 and pick the leaves off the stalks1 and dry them a little before the fire2 cover them with the best vinegar2 let them steep fourteen days2 then strain through a flannel jelly bag till it is fine2 then pour it into half-pint bottles2 cork them carefully1 and keep them in a dry place4 ,obs4 ,you may prepare elder-flowers and herbs in the same manner2 elder and tarragon are those in most general use in this country4 ,our neighbours1 the ,french1 prepare vinegars flavoured with celery1 cucumbers1 capsicums1 garlic1 eschalot1 onion1 capers1 chervil1 cress-seed1 burnet1 truffles1 ,seville orange-peel1 ginger1 c42 in short1 they impregnate them with almost every herb1 fruit1 flower1 and spice1 separately1 and in innumerable combinations4 ,messrs4 ,maille et ,aclocque1 ,vinaigriers ,paris1 sell sixty-five sorts of variously flavoured vinegar1 and twenty-eight different sorts of mustard4 ,basil ,vinegar or ,wine4--7,no4 #cig47 ,sweet basil is in full perfection about the middle of ,august4 ,fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of basil 7these give much finer and more flavour than the dried71 and cover them with vinegar1 or wine1 and let them steep for ten days3 if you wish a very strong essence1 strain the liquor1 put it on some fresh leaves1 and let them steep fourteen days more4 ,obs4 ,this is a very agreeable addition to sauces1 soups1 and to the mixture usually made for salads4 ,see ,nos4 #cgb and #dec4 ,it is a secret the makers of mock turtle may thank us for telling2 a table-spoonful put in when the soup is finished will impregnate a tureen of soup with the basil and acid flavours1 at very small cost1 when fresh basil and lemons are extravagantly dear4 ,the flavour of the other sweet and savoury herbs1 celery1 c4 may be procured1 and preserved in the same manner 7,no4 #dji1 or ,no4 #dag71 by infusing them in wine or vinegar4 ,cress ,vinegar4--7,no4 #cig9947 ,dry and pound half an ounce of cress-seed 7such as is sown in the garden with mustard71 pour upon it a quart of the best vinegar1 let it steep ten days1 shaking it up every day4 ,obs4 ,this is very strongly flavoured with cress2 and for salads and cold meats1 c4 it is a great favourite with many3 the quart of sauce costs only a half-penny more than the vinegar4 ,celery vinegar is made in the same manner4 ,the crystal vinegar 7,no4 #djg9971 which is1 we believe1 the pyroligneous acid1 is the best for receiving flavours1 having scarcely any of its own4 ,green ,mint ,vinegar1--7,no4 #cih47 ,is made precisely in the same manner1 and with the same proportions as in ,no4 #cig4 ,obs4--,in the early season of housed lamb1 green mint is sometimes not to be got2 the above is then a welcome substitute4 ,burnet or ,cucumber ,vinegar4--7,no4 #cii47 ,this is made in precisely the same manner as directed in ,no4 #cig4 ,the flavour of burnet resembles cucumber so exactly1 that when infused in vinegar1 the nicest palate would pronounce it to be cucumber4 ,obs4--,this is a very favourite relish with cold meat1 salads1 c4 ,burnet is in best season from midsummer to ,michaelmas4 ,horseradish ,vinegar4--7,no4 #cii9947 ,horseradish is in highest perfection about ,november4 ,pour a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped horseradish1 an ounce of minced eschalot1 and one drachm of ,cayenne2 let it stand a week1 and you will have an excellent relish for cold beef1 salads1 c4 costing scarcely any thing4 ,n4,b4 ,a portion of black pepper and mustard1 celery or cress-seed1 may be added to the above4 ,obs4--,horseradish powder 7,no4 #deh9974 ,garlic ,vinegar4--7,no4 #djj47 ,garlic is ready for this purpose from midsummer to ,michaelmas4 ,peel and chop two ounces of garlic1 pour on them a quart of white wine vinegar1 stop the jar close1 and let it steep ten days1 shaking it well every day2 then pour off the clear liquor into small bottles4 ,obs4--,the cook must be careful not to use too much of this2 a few drops of it will give a pint of gravy a sufficient smack of the garlic1 the flavour of which1 when slight and well blended1 is one of the finest we have2 when used in excess1 it is the most offensive4 ,the best way to use garlic1 is to send up some of this vinegar in a cruet1 and let the company flavour their own sauce as they like4 ,n4,b4 ,the most elegant preparation of the onion tribe is the eschalot wine1 ,no4 #djb4 ,eschalot ,vinegar1--7,no4 #dja47 ,is made in the same manner1 and the cook should never be without one of these useful auxiliaries2 they cost scarcely any thing but the little trouble of making1 and will save a great deal of trouble in flavouring soups and sauces with a taste of onion4 ,n4,b4 ,eschalots are in high perfection during ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,eschalot ,wine4--7,no4 #djb47 ,peel1 mince1 and pound in a mortar1 three ounces of eschalots1 and infuse them in a pint of sherry for ten days2 then pour off the clear liquor on three ounces more eschalots1 and let the wine stand on them ten days longer4 ,obs4--,this is rather the most expensive1 but infinitely the most elegant preparation of eschalot1 and imparts the onion flavour to soups and sauces1 for chops1 steaks1 or boiled meats1 hashes1 c4 more agreeably than any3 it does not leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth1 or to the breath2 nor repeat1 as almost all other preparations of garlic1 onion1 c4 do4 ,n4,b4 ,an ounce of scraped horseradish may be added to the above1 and a little thin-cut lemon-peel1 or a few drops of ,no4 #djh4 ,camp ,vinegar4--7,no4 #djc47 ,cayenne pepper1 one drachm1 avoirdupois weight4 ,soy1 two table-spoonfuls4 ,walnut catchup1 four ditto4 ,six anchovies chopped4 ,a small clove of garlic1 minced fine4 ,steep all for a month in a pint of the best vinegar1 frequently shaking the bottle3 strain through a tamis1 and keep it in small bottles1 corked as tightly as possible4 ,cayenne ,pepper4--7,no4 #djd47 ,mr4 ,accum has informed the public 7see his book on ,adulterations7 that from some specimens that came direct to him from ,india1 and others obtained from respectable oil shops in ,london1 he has extracted lead6 ,foreign ,cayenne pepper is an indiscriminate mixture of the powder of the dried pods of many species of capsicums1 especially of the bird pepper1 which is the hottest of all4 ,as it comes to us from the ,west ,indies1 it changes the infusion of turnsole to a beautiful green1 probably owing to the salt1 which is always added to it1 and the red oxide of lead1 with which it is said to be adulterated4 ,,duncan',s ,new ,edinburgh ,dispensary1 #ahai1 ,article ,capsicum1 p4 #ha4 ,the ,indian ,cayenne is prepared in a very careless manner1 and often looks as if the pods had lain till they were decayed1 before they were dried3 this accounts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly has4 ,if properly dried as soon as gathered1 it will be of a clear red colour3 to give it the complexion of that made with good fresh-gathered capsicums or ,chilies1 some annatto1 or other vegetable red colouring matter1 is pounded with it3 this1 ,mr4 ,a4 assures us1 is frequently adulterated with ,indian red1 i4 e4 red lead6 ,when ,cayenne is pounded1 it is mixed with a considerable portion of salt1 to prevent its flying up and hurting the eyes3 this might be avoided by grinding it in a mill1 which may easily be made close enough1 especially if it be passed through a second time1 and then sifted through a fine drum-headed sieve1 to produce as fine a powder as can be obtained by pounding2 however1 our ,english chilies may be pounded in a deep mortar without any danger4 ,the flavour of the ,chilies is very superior to that of the capsicums1 and will be good in proportion as they are dried as soon as possible1 taking care they are not burned4 ,take away the stalks1 and put the pods into a colander2 set it before the fire2 they will take full twelve hours to dry1 then put them into a mortar1 with one-fourth their weight of salt1 and pound them1 and rub them till they are fine as possible1 and put them into a well-stopped bottle4 ,n4,b4 ,we advise those who are fond of ,cayenne not to think it too much trouble to make it of ,english ,chilies2 there is no other way of being sure it is genuine1 and they will obtain a pepper of much finer flavour1 without half the heat of the foreign4 ,a hundred large ,chilies1 costing only two shillings1 will produce you about two ounces of ,cayenne1 so it is as cheap as the commonest ,cayenne4 ,four hundred ,chilies1 when the stems were taken off1 weighed half a pound2 and when dried1 produced a quarter of a pound of ,cayenne pepper4 ,essence of ,cayenne4--7,no4 #dje47 ,put half an ounce of ,cayenne pepper 7,no4 #djd7 into half a pint of brandy or wine2 let it steep for a fortnight1 and then pour off the clear liquor4 ,this is nearly equal to fresh ,chili juice4 ,obs4--,this or the ,chili vinegar 7,no4 #dje9917 is extremely convenient for the extempore seasoning and finishing of soups1 sauces1 c41 its flavour being instantly and equally diffused4 ,cayenne pepper varies so much in strength1 that it is impossible to season soup any other way to the precise point of piquance4 ,chili ,vinegar4--7,no4 #dje9947 ,this is commonly made with the foreign bird pepper2 but you will obtain a much finer flavour from infusing fifty fresh red ,english ,chilies 7cut in half1 or pounded7 in a pint of the best vinegar for a fortnight1 or a quarter of an ounce of ,cayenne pepper1 ,no4 #djd4 ,obs4--,many people cannot eat fish without the addition of an acid1 and ,cayenne pepper3 to such palates this will be an agreeable relish4 ,chili1 or ,cayenne ,wine4--7,no4 #djf47 ,pound and steep fifty fresh red ,chilies1 or a quarter of an ounce of ,cayenne pepper1 in half a pint of brandy1 white wine1 or claret1 for fourteen days4 ,obs4--,this is a bonne bouche for the lovers of ,cayenne1 of which it takes up a larger proportion of its flavour than of its fire2 which being instantly diffused1 it is a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish soups and sauces1 c4 ,essence of ,lemon-peel4--7,no4 #djg47 ,wash and brush clean the lemons2 let them get perfectly dry3 take a lump of loaf sugar1 and rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the sugar3 scrape off the surface of the sugar into a preserving pot1 and press it hard down2 cover it very close1 and it will keep for some time4 ,in the same way you may get the essence of ,seville orange-peel4 ,obs4 ,this method of procuring and preserving the flavour of lemon-peel1 by making an oleo-saccharum1 is far superior to the common practice of paring off the rind1 or grating it1 and pounding1 or mixing that with sugar3 by this process you obtain the whole of the fine1 fragrant1 essential oil1 in which is contained the flavour4 ,artificial ,lemon-juice4--7,no4 #djg9947 ,if you add a drachm of lump sugar1 pounded1 and six drops of ,no4 #djh1 to three ounces of crystal vinegar1 which is the name given to the pyroligneous vinegar1 you will have an excellent substitute for lemon-juice--for fish sauces and soups1 and many other culinary purposes4 ,the flavour of the lemon may also be communicated to the vinegar by infusing some lemon-peel in it4 ,n4,b4 ,the pyroligneous vinegar is perfectly free from all flavour1 save that of the pure acid2 therefore1 it is a very valuable menstruum for receiving impregnations from various flavouring materials4 ,the pyroligneous acid seems likely to produce quite a revolution in the process of curing hams1 herrings1 c4 c4 ,see ,,tilloch',s ,philosophical ,magazine1 #ahba1 ,no4 #agc1 p4 #ab4 ,quintessence of ,lemon-peel4--7,no4 #djh47 ,best oil of lemon1 one drachm1 strongest rectified spirit1 two ounces1 introduced by degrees till the spirit kills1 and completely mixes with the oil4 ,this elegant preparation possesses all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the freshest lemon-peel4 ,obs4 ,a few drops on the sugar you make punch with will instantly impregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious method of grating the rind1 or rubbing the sugar on it4 ,it will be found a superlative substitute for fresh lemon-peel for every purpose that it is used for3 blanc mange1 jellies1 custards1 ice1 negus1 lemonade1 and pies and puddings1 stuffings1 soups1 sauces1 ragots1 c4 ,see also ,no4 #cic4 ,tincture of ,lemon-peel4--7,no4 #djh9947 ,a very easy and economical way of obtaining1 and preserving the flavour of lemon-peel1 is to fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of brandy1 or proof spirit2 and when you use a lemon1 pare the rind off very thin1 and put it into the brandy1 c43 in a fortnight it will impregnate the spirit with the flavour very strongly4 ,essence of ,celery4--7,no4 #dji47 ,brandy1 or proof spirit1 a quarter of a pint4 ,celery-seed bruised1 half an ounce1 avoirdupois weight4 ,let it steep for a fortnight4 ,obs4--,a few drops will immediately flavour a pint of broth1 and are an excellent addition to pease1 and other soups1 and the salad mixture of oil1 vinegar1 c4 7,no4 #cib47 ,n4,b4 ,to make celery sauce1 see ,no4 #bhi4 ,aromatic ,essence of ,ginger4--7,no4 #daa47 ,three ounces of fresh-grated#bge-99 ginger1 and two ounces of thin-cut lemon-peel1 into a quart of brandy1 or proof spirit 7apothecaries' measure72 let it stand for ten days1 shaking it up each day4 ,obs4--,the proper title for this would be tincture of ginger3 however1 as it has obtained the name of essence1 so let it be called4 ,n4,b4 ,if ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect1 to warm the stomach1 or dispel flatulence1 this is the best preparation4 ,essence of ,allspice for mulling of ,wine4--7,no4 #dab47 ,oil of pimento1 a drachm1 apothecaries' measure1 strong spirit of wine1 two ounces1 mixed by degrees3 a few drops will give the flavour of allspice to a pint of gravy1 or mulled wine1 or to make a bishop4 ,mulled wine made with ,burgundy is called bishop2 with old ,rhenish wine1 cardinal2 and with ,tokay1 ,pope4 ,,ritter',s ,weinlehres1 p4 #bjj4 ,tincture#bge- of ,allspice4--7,no4 #dac47 ,of allspice bruised1 three ounces1 apothecaries' weight4 ,brandy1 a quart4 ,let it steep a fortnight1 occasionally shaking it up2 then pour off the clear liquor3 it is a most grateful addition in all cases where allspice is used1 for making a bishop1 or to mulled wine extempore1 or in gravies1 c41 or to flavour and preserve potted meats 7,no4 #ejc74 ,see ,,sir ,,hans ,,sloane',s ,obs4 on ,allspice1 p4 #if4 ,tincture of ,nutmeg4--7,no4 #dac9947 ,is made with the same proportions of nutmeg and brandy1 as ordered for allspice4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #dae4 ,essence of ,clove and ,mace4--7,no4 #dad47 ,strongest spirit of wine1 two ounces1 apothecaries' measure4 ,oil of nutmeg1 or clove1 or mace1 a drachm1 apothecaries' measure4 ,tincture of ,clove4--7,no4 #dae47 ,cloves bruised1 three ounces1 apothecaries' weight4 ,brandy1 one quart4 ,let it steep ten days3 strain it through a flannel sieve4 ,obs4--,excellent to flavour bishop1 or mulled wine4 ,essence of ,cinnamon4--7,no4 #daf47 ,strongest rectified spirit of wine1 two ounces4 ,oil of ,cinnamon1 one drachm1 apothecaries' measure4 ,tincture of ,cinnamon4--7,no4 #daf9947 ,this exhilarating cordial is made by pouring a bottle of genuine cognac 7,no4 #dga17 on three ounces of bruised cinnamon 7cassia will not do74 ,this restorative was more in vogue formerly than it is now3 a tea-spoonful of it1 and a lump of sugar1 in a glass of good sherry or ,madeira1 with the yelk of an egg beat up in it1 was called balsamum vit4 ,cur moriatur homo1 qui sumit de cinnamomo8--,cinnamon is verie comfortable to the stomacke1 and the principall partes of the bodie4 ,ventriculum1 jecur1 lienem1 cerebrum1 nervosque juvat et roborat4--,i reckon it a great treasure for a student to have by him in his closet1 to take now and then a spoonful4--,,cogan',s ,haven of ,health1 #dto4 #aehd1 p4 #aaa4 ,obs4--,two tea-spoonfuls in a wine-glass of water1 are a present and pleasant remedy in nervous languors1 and in relaxations of the bowels3 in the latter case1 five drops of laudanum may be added to each dose4 ,essence of ,marjoram4--7,no4 #dag47 ,strongest rectified spirit1 two ounces4 ,oil of origanum1 one drachm1 apothecaries' measure4 ,vegetable ,essences4--7,no4 #dag9947 ,the flavour of the various sweet and savoury herbs may be obtained by combining their essential oils with rectified spirit of wine1 in the proportion of one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter1 or by picking the leaves1 and laying them for a couple of hours in a warm place to dry1 and then filling a large-mouthed bottle with them1 and pouring on them wine1 brandy1 proof spirit1 or vinegar1 and letting them steep for fourteen days4 ,soup-herb#bgg-99 ,spirit4--7,no4 #dbj47 ,of lemon-thyme1 ,winter savoury1 ,sweet marjoram1 ,sweet basil1--half an ounce of each4 ,lemon-peel grated1 two drachms4 ,eschalots1 the same4 ,celery-seed1 a drachm1 avoirdupois weight4 ,prepare them as directed in ,no4 #dfa2 and infuse them in a pint of brandy1 or proof spirit1 for ten days3 they may also be infused in wine or vinegar1 but neither extract the flavour of the ingredients half so well as the spirit4 ,spirit of ,savoury ,spice4--7,no4 #dba47 ,black pepper1 an ounce2 allspice1 half an ounce1 pounded fine4 ,nutmeg grated1 a quarter of an ounce1 avoirdupois weight4 ,infuse in a pint of brandy1 or proof spirit1 for ten days2 or1 infuse the ingredients enumerated in ,no4 #deg1 in a quart of brandy1 or proof spirit1 for the like time4 ,soup-herb and ,savoury ,spice ,spirit4--7,no4 #dbb47 ,mix half a pint of soup-herb spirit with a quarter of a pint of spirit of savoury spice4 ,obs4--,these preparations are valuable auxiliaries to immediately heighten the flavour1 and finish soups1 sauces1 ragots1 c41 will save much time and trouble to the cook1 and keep for twenty years4 ,relish for ,chops1 c4--7,no4 #dbc47 ,pound fine an ounce of black pepper1 and half an ounce of allspice1 with an ounce of salt1 and half an ounce of scraped horseradish1 and the same of eschalots1 peeled and quartered2 put these ingredients into a pint of mushroom catchup1 or walnut pickle1 and let them steep for a fortnight1 and then strain it4 ,obs4--,a tea-spoonful or two of this is generally an acceptable addition1 mixed with the gravy usually sent up for chops and steaks 7see ,no4 #cef72 or added to thick melted butter4 ,fish ,sauce4--7,no4 #dbe47 ,two wine-glasses of port1 and two of walnut pickle1 four of mushroom catchup1 half a dozen anchovies1 pounded1 the like number of eschalots sliced and pounded1 a table-spoonful of soy1 and half a drachm of ,cayenne pepper2 let them simmer gently for ten minutes2 strain it1 and when cold1 put it into bottles2 well corked1 and sealed over1 it will keep for a considerable time4 ,obs4--,this is commonly called ,quin's sauce1 and was given to me by a very sagacious sauce-maker4 ,keeping ,mustard4--7,no4 #dbg47 ,dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling water1 or rather vinegar1 and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish2 closely cover down the jar1 and let it stand twenty-four hours3 strain1 and mix it by degrees with the best ,durham flour of mustard1 beat well together till quite smooth1 and of the proper thickness2 put into a wide-mouthed bottle1 and stop it closely4 ,for the various ways to flavour mustard1 see ,no4 #cgj4 ,sauce ,superlative4#bgh-99--7,no4 #dbi47 ,claret1 or port wine1 and mushroom catchup 7see ,no4 #dci71 a pint of each4 ,half a pint of walnut or other pickle liquor4 ,pounded anchovies1 four ounces4 ,fresh lemon-peel1 pared very thin1 an ounce4 ,peeled and sliced eschalots1 the same4 ,scraped horseradish1 ditto4 ,allspice1 and ,black pepper powdered1 half an ounce each4 ,cayenne1 one drachm1 or curry-powder1 three drachms4 ,celery-seed bruised1 a drachm4 ,all avoirdupois weight4 ,put these into a wide-mouthed bottle1 stop it close1 shake it up every day for a fortnight1 and strain it 7when some think it improved by the addition of a quarter of a pint of soy1 or thick browning1 see ,no4 #cbb71 and you will have a delicious double relish4 99499 ,this composition is one of the chefs d'oeuvre of many experiments ,i have made1 for the purpose of enabling the good housewives of ,great ,britain to prepare their own sauces3 it is equally agreeable with fish1 game1 poultry1 or ragots1 c41 and as a fair lady may make it herself1 its relish will be not a little augmented1 by the certainty that all the ingredients are good and wholesome4 ,obs4--,under an infinity of circumstances1 a cook may be in want of the substances necessary to make sauce3 the above composition of the several articles from which the various gravies derive their flavour1 will be found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute4 ,by mixing a large table-spoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter1 broth1 or ,no4 #beb1 five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce1 nearly equal to drawn gravy1 and as likely to put your lingual nerves into good humour as any thing ,i know4 ,to make a boat of sauce for poultry1 c4 put a piece of butter about as big as an egg into a stew-pan1 set it on the fire2 when it is melted1 put to it a table-spoonful of flour2 stir it thoroughly together1 and add to it two table-spoonfuls of sauce1 and by degrees about half a pint of broth1 or boiling water1 let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a few minutes1 skim it and strain it through a sieve1 and it is ready4 ,quintessence of ,anchovy4--7,no4 #dcc47 ,the goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely on having fine mellow fish1 that have been in pickle long enough 7i4 e4 about twelve months7 to dissolve easily1 yet are not at all rusty4 ,choose those that are in the state they come over in1 not such as have been put into fresh pickle1 mixed with red paint1#bhj-99 which some add to improve the complexion of the fish2 it has been said1 that others have a trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled sprats2#bhj- you will easily discover this by washing one of them1 and tasting the flesh of it1 which in the fine anchovy is mellow1 red1 and high-flavoured1 and the bone moist and oily4 ,make only as much as will soon be used1 the fresher it is the better4 ,put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar1 and pound them to a pulp2 put this into a very clean iron1 or silver1 or very well tinned saucepan2 then put a large table-spoonful of cold spring-water 7we prefer good vinegar7 into the mortar2 shake it round1 and pour it to the pounded anchovies1 set them by the side of a slow fire1 very frequently stirring them together till they are melted1 which they will be in the course of five minutes4 ,now stir in a quarter of a drachm of good ,cayenne pepper 7,no4 #djd74 and let it remain by the side of the fire for a few minutes longer2 then1 while it is warm1 rub it through a hair-sieve1#bhj- with the back of a wooden spoon4 ,the essence of anchovy1 which is prepared for the committee of taste1 is made with double the above quantity of water1 as they are of opinion that it ought to be so thin as not to hang about the sides of the bottle2 when it does1 the large surface of it is soon acted upon by the air1 and becomes rancid and spoils all the rest of it4 ,a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with the anchovy1 imparts a fine1 fresh1 delicate1 aromatic flavour1 which is very grateful2 this is only recommended when you make sauce for immediate use2 it will keep much better without3 if you wish to acidulate it1 instead of water make it with artificial lemon-juice 7,no4 #djg9971 or add a little of ,coxwell's concrete acid to it4 ,obs4--,the above is the proper way to perfectly dissolve anchovy1#bha-99 and to incorporate it with the water2 which1 if completely saturated1 will continue suspended4 ,to prevent the separation of essence of anchovy1 and give it the appearance of being fully saturated with fish1 various other expedients have been tried1 such as dissolving the fish in thin water gruel1 or barley-water1 or thickening it with mucilage1 flour1 c43 when any of these things are added1 it does not keep half so well as it does without them2 and to preserve it1 they overload it with ,cayenne pepper4 ,,mem4--,you cannot make essence of anchovy half so cheap as you can buy it4 ,thirty prime fish1 weighing a pound and a quarter1 and costing #ds4 #f;d41 and two table-spoonfuls of water1 made me only half a pint of essence2 you may commonly buy that quantity ready-made for #bs41 and we have seen an advertisement offering it for sale as low as #bs4 #f;d4 per quart4 ,it must be kept very closely stopped2 when you tap a bottle of sauce1 throw away the old perforated cork1 and put in a new taper velvet cork2 if the air gets to it1 the fish takes the rust1#bha- and it is spoiled directly4 ,essence of anchovy is sometimes coloured#bha- with bole armeniac1 ,venice red1 c42 but all these additions deteriorate the flavour of the sauce1 and the palate and stomach suffer for the gratification of the eye1 which1 in culinary concerns1 will never be indulged by the sagacious gourmand at the expense of these two primum mobiles of his pursuits4 99499 ,essence of anchovy is sometimes made with sherry or ,madeira wine1 or good mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 instead of water4 ,if you like the acid flavour1 add a little citric acid1 or dissolve them in good vinegar4 ,n4,b4 ,this is infinitely the most convenient way of using anchovy1 as each guest may mix sauce for himself1 and make it strong or weak1 according to his own taste4 ,it is also much more economical1 as plain melted butter 7,no4 #bef7 serves for other purposes at table4 ,anchovy ,paste1 or le ,beurre d',anchois4--7,no4 #dcd47 ,pound them in a mortar2 then rub it through a fine sieve2 pot it1 cover it with clarified butter1 and keep it in a cool place4 ,n4,b4 ,if you have essence of anchovy1 you may make anchovy paste extempore1 by rubbing the essence with as much flour as will make a paste4 ,mem4--,this is merely mentioned as the means of making it immediately2 it will not keep4 ,obs4--,this is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of a little flour of mustard1 a pickled walnut1 spice 7,no4 #dfj71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 or ,cayenne2 and it then becomes a rival to la vritable sauce d'enfer 7,no4 #ebh71 or pt la diable for deviling biscuits 7,no4 #egd71 grills 7,no4 #ech71 c4 ,it is an excellent garnish for fish1 put in pats round the edge of the dish1 or will make anchovy toast 7,no4 #egc71 or devil a biscuit 7,no4 #egd71 c4 in high style4 ,anchovy ,powder4--7,no4 #dce47 ,pound the fish in a mortar1 rub them through a sieve1 and make them into a paste with dried flour1 roll it into thin cakes1 and dry them in a ,dutch oven before a slow fire2 pounded to a fine powder1 and put into a well-stopped bottle1 it will keep for years2 it is a very savoury relish1 sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich1 c4 ,see ,oyster ,powder 7,no4 #bhj74 ,obs4--,to this may be added a small portion of ,cayenne pepper1 grated lemon-peel1 and citric acid4 ,walnut ,catchup4--7,no4 #dch47 ,take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells1 put them into a tub1 mix them up well with common salt1 7from two to three pounds17 let them stand for six days1 frequently beating and mashing them2 by this time the shells become soft and pulpy2 then by banking it up on one side of the tub1 and at the same time by raising the tub on that side1 the liquor will drain clear off to the other2 then take that liquor out3 the mashing and banking-up may be repeated as often as liquor is found4 ,the quantity will be about six quarts4 ,when done1 let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises2 then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger1 a quarter of a pound of allspice1 two ounces of long pepper1 two ounces of cloves1 with the above ingredients2 let it slowly boil for half an hour2 when bottled1 let an equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle2 when corked1 let the bottles be filled quite up3 cork them tight1 seal them over1 and put them into a cool and dry place for one year before they are used4 ,n4,b4 ,for the above we are indebted to a respectable oilman1 who has many years proved the receipt4 ,mushroom ,catchup4--7,no4 #dci47 ,if you love good catchup1 gentle reader1 make it yourself1#bhc-99 after the following directions1 and you will have a delicious relish for made-dishes1 ragots1 soups1 sauces1 or hashes4 ,mushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy1 more than any vegetable juice1 and is the superlative substitute for it3 in meagre soups and extempore gravies1 the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably awaken the palate1 and encourage the appetite4 ,a couple of quarts of double catchup1 made according to the following receipt1 will save you some score pounds of meat1 besides a vast deal of time and trouble2 as it will furnish1 in a few minutes1 as good sauce as can be made for either fish1 flesh1 or fowl4 ,see ,no4 #cjg4 ,i believe the following is the best way of extracting and preparing the essence of mushrooms1 so as to procure and preserve their flavour for a considerable length of time4 ,look out for mushrooms from the beginning of ,september4 ,take care they are the right sort1 and fresh gathered4 ,full-grown flaps are to be preferred3 put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan1 and sprinkle them with salt2 then another layer of mushrooms1 and some more salt on them2 and so on alternately1 salt and mushrooms3 let them remain two or three hours1 by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms1 and rendered them easy to break2 then pound them in a mortar1 or mash them well with your hands1 and let them remain for a couple of days1 not longer1 stirring them up and mashing them well each day2 then pour them into a stone jar1 and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper1 and half an ounce of allspice2 stop the jar very close1 and set it in a stew-pan of boiling water1 and keep it boiling for two hours at least4 ,take out the jar1 and pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair-sieve 7without squeezing#bhd-99 the mushrooms7 into a clean stew-pan2 let it boil very gently for half an hour3 those who are for superlative catchup1 will continue the boiling till the mushroom-juice is reduced to half the quantity2 it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup4 ,there are several advantages attending this concentration2 it will keep much better1 and only half the quantity be required2 so you can flavour sauce1 c4 without thinning it3 neither is this an extravagant way of making it1 for merely the aqueous part is evaporated2 skim it well1 and pour it into a clean dry jar1 or jug2 cover it close1 and let it stand in a cool place till next day2 then pour it off as gently as possible 7so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug17 through a tamis1 or thick flannel bag1 till it is perfectly clear2 add a table-spoonful of good brandy to each pint of catchup1 and let it stand as before2 a fresh sediment will be deposited1 from which the catchup is to be quietly poured off1 and bottled in pints or half pints 7which have been washed with brandy or spirit73 it is best to keep it in such quantities as are soon used4 ,take especial care that it is closely corked1 and sealed down1 or dipped in bottle cement4 ,if kept in a cool1 dry place1 it may be preserved for a long time2 but if it be badly corked1 and kept in a damp place1 it will soon spoil4 ,examine it from time to time1 by placing a strong light behind the neck of the bottle1 and if any pellicle appears about it1 boil it up again with a few peppercorns4 ,we have ordered no more spice1 c4 than is absolutely necessary to feed the catchup1 and keep it from fermenting1 c4 ,the compound1 commonly called catchup1 is generally an injudicious combination of so many different tastes1 that the flavour of the mushroom is overpowered by a farrago of garlic1 eschalot1 anchovy1 mustard1 horseradish1 lemon-peel1 beer1 wine1 spice1 c4 ,obs4--,a table-spoonful of double catchup will impregnate half a pint of sauce with the full flavour of mushroom1 in much greater perfection than either pickled or powder of mushrooms4 ,quintessence of ,mushrooms4--7,no4 #ddj47 ,this delicate relish is made by sprinkling a little salt over either flap or button mushrooms2 three hours after1 mash them2 next day1 strain off the liquor that will flow from them2 put it into a stew-pan1 and boil it till it is reduced to half4 ,it will not keep long1 but is preferable to any of the catchups1 which1 in order to preserve them1 must have spice1 c41 which overpowers the flavour of the mushrooms4 ,an artificial mushroom bed will supply this all the year round4 ,to make sauce with this1 see ,no4 #cjg4 ,oyster ,catchup4--7,no4 #dda47 ,take fine fresh ,milton oysters2 wash them in their own liquor2 skim it2 pound them in a marble mortar2 to a pint of oysters add a pint of sherry2 boil them up1 and add an ounce of salt1 two drachms of pounded mace1 and one of ,cayenne2 let it just boil up again2 skim it1 and rub it through a sieve1 and when cold1 bottle it1 cork it well1 and seal it down4 ,obs4--,see also ,no4 #bhj1 and ,obs4 to ,no4 #bgh4 ,n4,b4 ,it is the best way to pound the salt and spices1 c4 with the oysters4 ,obs4--,this composition very agreeably heightens the flavour of white sauces1 and white made-dishes2 and if you add a glass of brandy to it1 it will keep good for a considerable time longer than oysters are out of season in ,england4 ,cockle and ,muscle ,catchup1--7,no4 #ddb47 ,may be made by treating them in the same way as the oysters in the preceding receipt4 ,pudding ,catchup4--7,no4 #ddf47 ,half a pint of brandy1 essence of punch 7,no4 #dgi71 or ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd71 or ,noyeau1 a pint of sherry1 an ounce of thin-pared lemon-peel1 half an ounce of mace1 and steep them for fourteen days1 then strain it1 and add a quarter of a pint of capillaire1 or ,no4 #dgf4 ,this will keep for years1 and1 mixed with melted butter1 is a delicious relish to puddings and sweet dishes4 ,see ,pudding ,sauce1 ,no4 #bfi1 and the ,justice's ,orange ,syrup1 ,no4 #cib4 ,potato#bhf-99 ,starch4--7,no4 #ddh47 ,peel and wash a pound of full-grown potatoes1 grate them on a bread-grater into a deep dish1 containing a quart of clear water2 stir it well up1 and then pour it through a hair-sieve1 and leave it ten minutes to settle1 till the water is quite clear3 then pour off the water1 and put a quart of fresh water to it2 stir it up1 let it settle1 and repeat this till the water is quite clear2 you will at last find a fine white powder at the bottom of the vessel4 7,the criterion of this process being completed1 is the purity of the water that comes from it after stirring it up47 ,lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair-sieve to dry1 either in the sun or before the fire1 and it is ready for use1 and in a well-stopped bottle will keep good for many months4 ,if this be well made1 half an ounce 7i4 e4 a table-spoonful7 of it mixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold water1 and stirred into a soup or sauce1 just before you take it up1 will thicken a pint of it to the consistence of cream4 ,obs4--,this preparation much resembles the ,indian arrow root1 and is a good substitute for it2 it gives a fulness on the palate to gravies and sauces at hardly any expense1 and by some is used to thicken melted butter instead of flour4 ,as it is perfectly tasteless1 it will not alter the flavour of the most delicate broth1 c4 ,of the ,flour of ,potatoes4 ,a patent has been recently obtained at ,paris1 a gold medal bestowed1 and other honorary distinctions granted1 for the discovery and practice1 on a large scale1 of preparing from potatoes a fine flour2 a sago1 a flour equal to ground rice2 and a semolina or paste1 of which #alb4 is equal to #a-a_/blbs4 of rice1 #a-c_/dlbs4 of vermicelli1 or1 it is asserted1 #hlbs4 of raw potatoes4 ,these preparations are found valuable to mix with wheaten flour for bread1 to make biscuits1 pastry1 pie-crusts1 and for all soups1 gruels1 and panada4 ,large engagements have been made for these preparations with the ,french marine1 and military and other hospitals1 with the approbation of the faculty4 ,an excellent bread1 it is said1 can be made of this flour1 at half the cost of wheaten bread4 ,heat having been applied in these preparations1 the articles will keep unchanged for years1 and on board ship1 to ,china and back2 rats1 mice1 worms1 and insects do not infect or destroy this flour4 ,simply mixed with cold water1 they are in ten minutes fit for food1 when fire and all other resource may be wanted2 and twelve ounces are sufficient for a day's sustenance1 in case of necessity4 ,the physicians and surgeons in the hospitals1 in cases of great debility of the stomach1 have employed these preparations with advantage4 ,the point of this discovery is1 the cheapness of preparation1 and the conversion of a surplus growth of potatoes into a keeping stock1 in an elegant1 portable1 and salubrious form4 ,salad or piquante ,sauce for cold ,meat1 ,fish1 c4--7,no4 #dec47 ,see also ,no4 #cgb4 ,pound together ,an ounce of scraped horseradish1 ,half an ounce of salt1 ,a table-spoonful of made mustard1 ,no4 #cgj1 ,four drachms of minced eschalots1 ,no4 #dji1 ,half a drachm of celery-seed1 ,no4 #dji1 ,and half ditto of ,cayenne1 ,no4 #djd1 ,adding gradually a pint of burnet 7,no4 #cii71 or tarragon vinegar 7,no4 #cif71 and let it stand in a jar a week1 and then pass it through a sieve4 ,curry ,powder4--7,no4 #dee47 ,put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night1 and the next morning pound them in a marble mortar1 and rub them through a fine sieve4 d4 ,coriander-seed1 three ounces #c ,turmeric1 three ounces #f ,black pepper1 mustard1 and ginger1 one ounce of each #h ,allspice and less cardamoms1 half an ounce of each #e ,cumin-seed1 a quarter of an ounce #a ,thoroughly pound and mix together1 and keep them in a well-stopped bottle4 ,those who are fond of curry sauces1 may steep three ounces of the powder in a quart of vinegar or white wine for ten days1 and will get a liquor impregnated with all the flavour of the powder4 ,obs4--,this receipt was an attempt to imitate some of the best ,indian curry powder1 selected for me by a friend at the ,india house3 the flavour approximates to the ,indian powder so exactly1 the most profound palaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy of the original curry stuff4 ,the following remark was sent to the editor by an ,east ,indian friend4 ,the ingredients which you have selected to form the curry powder1 are the same as are used in ,india1 with this difference only1 that some of them are in a raw green state1 and are mashed together1 and afterward dried1 powdered1 and sifted4 ,for ,curry ,sauce1 see ,no4 #cdh4 ,n4,b4 ,chickens1 rabbits1 sweetbreads1 breasts of veal1 veal cutlets1 mutton1 lamb1 or pork chops1 lobster1 turbot1 soles1 eels1 oysters1 c4 are dressed curry fashion1 see ,no4 #dig2 or stew them in ,no4 #cbi or ,no4 #cdh1 and flavour with ,no4 #dee4 ,obs4--,the common fault of curry powder is the too great proportion of ,cayenne 7to the milder aromatics from which its agreeable flavour is derived71 preventing a sufficient quantity of the curry powder being used4 ,savoury ragot ,powder4--7,no4 #deg47 ,salt1 an ounce1 ,mustard1 half an ounce1 ,allspice1#bhh-99 a quarter of an ounce1 ,black pepper ground1 and lemon-peel grated1 or of ,no4 #djg1 pounded and sifted fine1 half an ounce each1 ,ginger1 and ,nutmeg grated1 a quarter of an ounce each1 ,cayenne pepper1 two drachms4 ,pound them patiently1 and pass them through a fine hair-sieve2 bottle them for use4 ,the above articles will pound easier and finer1 if they are dried first in a ,dutch oven#bhh- before a very gentle fire1 at a good distance from it2 if you give them much heat1 the fine flavour of them will be presently evaporated1 and they will soon get a strong1 rank1 empyreumatic taste4 ,n4,b4 ,infused in a quart of vinegar or wine1 they make a savoury relish for soups1 sauces1 c4 ,obs4 ,the spices in a ragot are indispensable to give it a flavour1 but not a predominant one2 their presence should be rather supposed than perceived2 they are the invisible spirit of good cookery3 indeed1 a cook without spice would be as much at a loss as a confectioner without sugar3 a happy mixture of them1 and proportion to each other and the other ingredients1 is the chef-d'oeuvre of a first-rate cook4 ,the art of combining spices1 c41 which may be termed the harmony of flavours1 no one hitherto has attempted to teach3 and the rule of thumb is the only guide that experienced cooks have heretofore given for the assistance of the novice in the 7till now1 in these pages explained1 and rendered1 we hope1 perfectly intelligible to the humblest capacity7 occult art of cookery4 ,this is the first time receipts in cookery have been given accurately by weight or measure666 7,see ,obs4 on the education of a cook's tongue1 pages #eb and #ec47 ,pease ,powder4--7,no4 #deh47 ,pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each of dried mint and sage1 a drachm of celery-seed1 and a quarter of a drachm of ,cayenne pepper2 rub them through a fine sieve4 ,this gives a very savoury relish to pease soup1 and to water gruel1 which1 by its help1 if the eater of it has not the most lively imagination1 he may fancy he is sipping good pease soup4 ,obs4--,a drachm of allspice1 or black pepper1 may be pounded with the above as an addition1 or instead of1 the ,cayenne4 ,horseradish ,powder4--7,no4 #deh9947 ,the time to make this is during ,november and ,december2 slice it the thickness of a shilling1 and lay it to dry very gradually in a ,dutch oven 7a strong heat soon evaporates its flavour72 when dry enough1 pound it and bottle it4 ,obs4 ,see ,horseradish ,vinegar 7,no4 #cii9974 ,soup-herb ,powder1 or ,vegetable ,relish4--7,no4 #dei47 ,dried parsley1 ,winter savoury1 ,sweet marjoram1 ,lemon-thyme1 of each two ounces2 ,lemon-peel1 cut very thin1 and dried1 and ,sweet basil1 an ounce of each4 99499 ,some add to the above bay-leaves and celery-seed1 a drachm each4 ,dry them in a warm1 but not too hot ,dutch oven3 when quite dried1 pound them in a mortar1 and pass them through a double hair-sieve2 put them in a bottle closely stopped1 they will retain their fragrance and flavour for several months4 ,n4,b4 ,these herbs are in full perfection in ,july and ,august 7see ,no4 #dfa9974 ,an infusion of the above in vinegar or wine makes a good relishing sauce1 but the flavour is best when made with fresh-gathered herbs1 as directed in ,no4 #cig4 ,obs4 ,this composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an invaluable acquisition to the cook in those seasons or situations when fresh herbs cannot be had2 and we prefer it to the ragot powder1 ,no4 #deg3 it impregnates sauce1 soup1 c4 with as much relish1 and renders it agreeable to the palate1 and refreshes the gustatory nerves1 without so much risk of offending the stomach1 c4 ,soup-herb and ,savoury ,powder1 or ,quintessence of ,ragot4--7,no4 #dfj47 ,take three parts of soup-herb powder 7,no4 #dei7 to one part of savoury powder1 ,no4 #deg4 ,obs4 ,this agreeable combination of the aromatic spices and herbs should be kept ready prepared3 it will save a great deal of time in cooking ragots1 stuffings1 forcemeat-balls1 soups1 sauces1 c42 kept dry1 and tightly corked down1 its fragrance and strength may be preserved undiminished for some time4 ,n4,b4 ,three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of vinegar or wine with a very agreeable relish4 ,to ,dry sweet and savoury ,herbs4--7,no4 #dfa47 ,for the following accurate and valuable information1 the reader is indebted to ,mr4 ,,butler1 herbalist and seedsman 7opposite ,henrietta ,street71 ,covent ,garden market4 ,it is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing sweet herbs4 ,all vegetables are in the highest state of perfection1 and fullest of juice and flavour1 just before they begin to flower3 the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour1 nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the season2 that is1 when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe4 ,take care they are gathered on a dry day1 by which means they will have a better colour when dried4 ,cleanse your herbs well from dirt and dust2#bia-99 cut off the roots2 separate the bunches into smaller ones1 and dry them by the heat of a stove1 or in a ,dutch oven before a common fire1 in such quantities at a time1 that the process may be speedily finished2 i4 e4 ',kill 'em quick1' says a great botanist2 by this means their flavour will be best preserved3 there can be no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs1 c4 hastily by the aid of artificial heat1 rather than by the heat of the sun4 ,in the application of artificial heat1 the only caution requisite is to avoid burning2 and of this a sufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour4 ,the common custom is1 when they are perfectly dried to put them in bags1 and lay them in a dry place2 but the best way to preserve the flavour of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried1 and to pound them1 and put them through a hair-sieve1 and keep them in well-stopped bottles4#bia- ,see ,no4 #dei4 ,basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of ,august1 and three weeks after1 see ,no4 #cig4 ,knotted marjoram1 from the beginning of ,july1 and during the same4 ,winter savoury1 the latter end of ,july1 and throughout ,august1 see ,obs4 to ,no4 #cig4 ,summer savoury1 the latter end of ,july1 and throughout ,august4 ,thyme1 lemon-thyme1 orange-thyme1#bia- during ,june and ,july4 ,mint1 latter end of ,june1 and during ,july1 see ,no4 #cih4 ,sage1 ,august and ,september4 ,tarragon1 ,june1 ,july1 and ,august1 see ,no4 #cif4 ,chervil1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july1 see ,no4 #bfd4 ,burnet1 ,june1 ,july1 and ,august1 see ,no4 #cii4 ,parsley1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #bfa4 ,fennel1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,elder flowers1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,orange flowers1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,n4,b4 ,herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable substitute when fresh ones cannot be got2 but1 however carefully dried1 the flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs are incomparably finer4 ,,the ,,magazine ,,of ,,taste4--7,no4 #dfb47 ,this is a convenient auxiliary to the cook3 it may be arranged as a pyramidical epergne for a dormant in the centre of the table1 or as a travelling store-chest4 ,the following sketch will enable any one to fit up an assortment of flavouring materials according to their own fancy and palate2 and1 we presume1 will furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of the gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred grand gourmand of the first magnitude 7if ,cayenne and garlic have not completely consumed the sensibility of his palate71 and consists of a ,,sauce-,,box1 containing four eight-ounce bottles1#bib-99 sixteen four ounce1 and eight two-ounce bottles3-- #a4 ,pickles4 #b4 ,brandy4 #c4 ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd74 #d4 ,syrup 7,no4 #dge74 #e4 ,salad sauce 7,nos4 #cgb and #dec74 #f4 ,pudding catchup 7,no4 #ddf74 #g4 ,sauce superlative1 or double relish 7,no4 #dbi74 #h4 ,walnut pickle4 #i4 ,mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci74 #aj4 ,vinegar4 #aa4 ,oil4 #ab4 ,mustard 7see ,nos4 #cgj and #dbg74 #ac4 ,salt 7see ,no4 #cga74 #ad4 ,curry powder 7,no4 #dee74 #ae4 ,soy 7,no4 #dcf74 #af4 ,lemon-juice4 #ag4 ,essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 #ah4 ,pepper4 #ai4 ,cayenne 7,no4 #dje1 or ,no4 #djf74 #bj4 ,soup-herb powder 7,no4 #dei74 #ba4 ,ragot powder 7,no4 #deg74 #bb4 ,pease powder 7,no4 #deh74 #bc4 ,zest 7,no4 #bee74 #bd4 ,essence of celery 7,no4 #dji74 #be4 ,sweet herbs 7,no4 #dai74 #bf4 ,lemon-peel 7,no4 #djh74 #bg4 ,eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb74 #bh4 ,powdered mint4 ,in a drawer under4 ,half a dozen one ounce bottles4 ,weights and scales4 ,a graduated glass measure1 divided into tea- and table-spoons4 ,corkscrew4 ,nutmeg-grater4 ,table and tea-spoon4 ,knife and fork4 ,a steel1 and a ,small mortar4 ---------------- #e #ac #ba #a ----------- #f #ad #bb ---------------- #g #ae #bc #b ----------- #h #af #bd ---------------- #i #ag #be #c ----------- #aj #ah #bf ---------------- #aa #ai #bg #d ----------- #ab #bj #bh ---------------- ,n4,b4 ,the portable magazine of taste1 alluded to in page #dd1 may be furnished with a four-ounce bottle for ,cognac 7,no4 #dga71 a ditto for ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd71 an ounce bottle for essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 and one of like size for mushroom catchup4 ,toast and ,water4--7,no4 #dfc47 ,cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf1 about twice the thickness toast is usually cut3 toast it carefully until it be completely browned all over1 but not at all blackened or burnt2 pour as much boiling water as you wish to make into drink1 into the jug2 put the toast into it1 and let it stand till it is quite cold3 the fresher it is the better4 ,obs4--,a roll of thin fresh-cut lemon1 or dried orange-peel1 or some currant-jelly 7,no4 #dge9971 apples sliced or roasted1 c4 infused with the bread1 are grateful additions4 ,n4,b4 ,if the boiling water be poured on the bread it will break it1 and make the drink grouty4 ,n4,b4 ,this is a refreshing summer drink2 and when the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration1 may be drunk plentifully4 ,let a large jug be made early in the day1 it will then become warmed by the heat of the air1 and may be drunk without danger2 which water1 cold as it comes from the well1 cannot in hot weather4 ,or1 ,to make it more expeditiously1 put the bread into a mug1 and just cover it with boiling water2 let it stand till cold1 then fill it up with cold spring-water1 and pour it through a fine sieve4 ,obs4--,the above is a pleasant and excellent beverage1 grateful to the stomach1 and deserves a constant place by the bed-side4 ,cool ,tankard1 or ,beer ,cup4--7,no4 #dfd47 ,a quart of mild ale1 a glass of white wine1 one of brandy1 one of capillaire1 the juice of a lemon1 a roll of the peel pared thin1 nutmeg grated at the top 7a sprig of borrage#bid-99 or balm71 and a bit of toasted bread4 ,cider ,cup1--7,no4 #dfe47 ,is the same1 only substituting cider for beer4 ,flip4--7,no4 #dff47 ,keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried lemon-peel1 rubbed together in a mortar4 ,to make a quart of flip3--,put the ale on the fire to warm1 and beat up three or four eggs1 with four ounces of moist sugar1 a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or ginger1 and a quartern of good old rum or brandy4 ,when the ale is near to boil1 put it into one pitcher1 and the rum and eggs1 c4 into another2 turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as cream4 ,n4,b4 ,this quantity ,i styled one yard of flannel4 ,obs4--,the above is set down in the words of the publican who gave us the receipt4 ,tewahdiddle4--7,no4 #dfg47 ,a pint of table beer 7or ale1 if you intend it for a supplement to your night cap71 a table-spoonful of brandy1 and a tea-spoonful of brown sugar1 or clarified syrup 7,no4 #dge72 a little grated nutmeg or ginger may be added1 and a roll of very thin-cut lemon-peel4 ,obs4--,before our readers make any remarks on this composition1 we beg of them to taste it3 if the materials are good1 and their palate vibrates in unison with our own1 they will find it one of the pleasantest beverages they ever put to their lips2 and1 as ,lord ,ruthven says1 this is a right gossip's cup that far exceeds all the ale that ever ,mother ,bunch made in her life-time4 ,see his ,lordship's ,experiments in ,cookery1 c4 #ahmo4 ,london1 #afed1 p4 #bae4 ,sir ,fleetwood ,shepherd's ,sack ,posset4--7,no4 #dfg9947 ,from famed ,barbadoes1 on the western main1 ,fetch sugar1 ounces four--fetch sack from ,spain1 ,a pint1--and from the eastern ,indian coast ,nutmeg1 the glory of our northern toast2 ,o'er flaming coals let them together heat1 ,till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet2 ,o'er such another fire put eggs just ten1 ,new-born from tread of cock and rump of hen3 ,stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking ,to see the untimely end of ten fine chicken3 ,from shining shelf take down the brazen skillet1-- ,a quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it4 ,when boiled and cold1 put milk and sack to eggs1 ,unite them firmly like the triple league1 ,and on the fire let them together dwell ,till ,miss sing twice--you must not kiss and tell-- ,each lad and lass take up a silver spoon1 ,and fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon4 ,to bottle ,beer4--7,no4 #dfh47 ,when the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in the cask fail1 and they become dead and vapid1 which they generally do soon after they are tilted2 let them be bottled4 ,be careful to use clean and dried bottles2 leave them unstopped for twelve hours1 and then cork them as closely as possible with good and sound new corks2 put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each bottle3 the beer will be ripe1 i4 e4 fine and sparkling1 in about four or five weeks3 if the weather is cold1 to put it up the day before it is drunk1 place it in a room where there is a fire4 ,remember there is a sediment1 c4 at the bottom of the bottles1 which you must carefully avoid disturbing2 so pour it off at once1 leaving a wine-glassful at the bottom4 99499 ,if beer becomes hard or stale1 a few grains of carbonate of potash added to it at the time it is drunk will correct it1 and make draught beer as brisk as bottled ale4 ,rich ,raspberry ,wine or ,brandy4--7,no4 #dfi47 ,bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back of a spoon2 strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar1 allowing a pound of fine powdered loaf sugar to each quart of juice2 stir it well together1 and cover it down2 let it stand for three days1 stirring it up each day2 pour off the clear1 and put two quarts of sherry1 or one of ,cognac brandy1 to each quart of juice2 bottle it off3 it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight4 ,n4,b4 ,or make it with the jelly1 ,no4 #dgi4 ,liqueurs4--7,no4 #dga47 ,we have very little to tell from our own experience1 and refer our reader to ,nouvelle ,chimie du ,got et de l',odorat1 ou l',art du ,distillateur1 du ,confiseur1 et du ,parfumeur1 mis la porte de tout le ,monde4 ,paris1 #b tom4 #hvo4 #ahai4 ,next to teaching how to make good things at home1 is the information where those things may be procured ready made of the best quality4 ,it is in vain to attempt to imitate the best foreign liqueurs1 unless we can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made4 ,johnson and ,co41 foreign liqueur and brandy merchants to his majesty and the royal family1 ,no4 #b1 ,colonnade1 ,pall ,mall1 are justly famous for importing of the best quality1 and selling in a genuine state1 seventy-one varieties of foreign liqueurs1 c4 ,curaoa4--7,no4 #dgd47 ,put five ounces of thin-cut ,seville orange-peel1 that has been dried and pounded1 or1 which is still better1 of the fresh peel of a fresh shaddock1 which may be bought at the orange and lemon shops in the beginning of ,march1 into a quart of the finest and cleanest rectified spirit2 after it has been infused a fortnight1 strain it1 and add a quart of syrup 7,no4 #dge71 and filter4 ,see the following receipt3 ,to make a ,quart of ,curaoa4 ,to a pint of the cleanest and strongest rectified spirit1 add two drachms and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel2 shake it up3 dissolve a pound of good lump sugar in a pint of cold water2 make this into a clarified syrup 7,no4 #dge73 which add to the spirit3 shake it up1 and let it stand till the following day3 then line a funnel with a piece of muslin1 and that with filtering-paper1 and filter it two or three times till it is quite bright4 ,this liqueur is an admirable cordial2 and a tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing summer drink1 and a great improvement to punch4 ,clarified ,syrup4--7,no4 #dge47 ,break into bits two pounds 7avoirdupois7 of double refined lump sugar1 and put it into a clean stew-pan 7that is well tinned71 with a pint of cold spring-water2 when the sugar is dissolved1 set it over a moderate fire3 beat about half the white of an egg1 put it to the sugar before it gets warm1 and stir it well together4 ,watch it2 and when it boils take off the scum2 keep it boiling till no scum rises1 and it is perfectly clear2 then run it through a clean napkin3 put it into a close stopped bottle2 it will keep for months1 and is an elegant article on the sideboard for sweetening4 ,obs4--,the proportion of sugar ordered in the above syrup is a quarter pound more than that directed in the ,pharmacopoeia of the ,london ,college of ,physicians4 ,the quantity of sugar must be as much as the liquor is capable of keeping dissolved when cold1 or it will ferment1 and quickly spoil3 if kept in a temperate degree of heat1 the above proportion of sugar may be considered the basis of all syrups4 ,capillaire4--7,no4 #dgf47 ,to a pint of clarified syrup add a wine-glass of ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd72 or dissolve a drachm of oil of ,neroli in two ounces of rectified spirit1 and add a few drops of it to clarified syrup4 ,lemonade in a ,minute4--7,no4 #dgg47 ,pound a quarter of an ounce 7avoirdupois7 of citric1 i4 e4 crystallized lemon acid1#big-99 with a few drops of quintessence of lemon-peel 7,no4 #djh71 and mix it by degrees with a pint of clarified syrup 7,no4 #dge71 or capillaire4 ,for superlative syrup of lemons1 see ,no4 #cia4 ,obs4--,the proportion of acid to the syrup1 was that selected 7from several specimens7 by the committee of taste4 ,we advise those who are disposed to verify our receipt1 to mix only three quarters of a pint of syrup first1 and add the other quarter if they find it too acid4 ,if you have none of ,no4 #djh1 flavour your syrup with thin-cut lemon-peel1 or use syrup of lemon-peel 7,no4 #cic74 ,a table-spoonful of this in a pint of water will immediately produce a very agreeable sherbet2 the addition of rum or brandy will convert this into ,punch directly4--7,no4 #dgh47 ,shrub1 or ,essence of ,punch4--7,no4 #dgi47 ,brandy or rum1 flavoured with ,no4 #dgg1 will give you very good extempore essence of punch4 ,obs4--,the addition of a quart of ,sherry or ,madeira makes punch royal2 if1 instead of wine1 the above quantity of water be added1 it will make punch for chambermaids1 according to ,,salmon',s ,cookery1 #hvo4 ,london1 #agaj4 ,see page #dje2 and ,no4 #bfh in ,,nott',s ,cook's ,dictionary1 #hvo4 #agbd4 ,white1 ,red1 or ,black ,currant1 ,grape1 ,raspberry1 c4 ,jelly4#bih-99--7,no4 #dgi9947 ,are all made precisely in the same manner4 ,when the fruit is full ripe1 gather it on a dry day3 as soon as it is nicely picked1 put it into a jar1 and cover it down very close4 ,set the jar in a saucepan about three parts filled with cold water2 put it on a gentle fire1 and let it simmer for about half an hour4 ,take the pan from the fire1 and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag3 pass the juice through a second time2 do not squeeze the bag4 ,to each pint of juice add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded2 when it is dissolved1 put it into a preserving-pan2 set it on the fire1 and boil gently2 stirring and skimming it the whole time 7about thirty or forty minutes71 i4 e4 till no more scum rises1 and it is perfectly clear and fine3 pour it while warm into pots2 and when cold1 cover them with paper wetted in brandy4 ,half a pint of this jelly1 dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar1 will give you excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar4 ,to make sweet sauce1 see ,no4 #cdf4 ,obs4--,jellies from other fruits are made in the same way1 and cannot be preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar4 ,those who wish jelly to turn out very stiff1 dissolve isinglass in a little water1 strain through a sieve1 and add it in the proportion of half an ounce to a pint of juice1 and put it in with the sugar4 ,the best way is the cheapest4 ,jellies made with too small a proportion of sugar1 require boiling so long2 there is much more waste of juice and flavour by evaporation than the due quantity of sugar costs2 and they neither look nor taste half so delicate1 as when made with a proper proportion of sugar1 and moderate boiling4 ,mock ,arrack4--7,no4 #dhj47 ,dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of good rum1 and it will immediately impart to it the inviting fragrance of ,vauxhall nectar4 ,calves'-,feet ,jelly4--7,no4 #dha47 ,take four calves' feet 7not those which are sold at tripe-shops1 which have been boiled till almost all the gelatine is extracted2 but buy them at the butcher's71 slit them in two1 take away the fat from between the claws1 wash them well in lukewarm water2 then put them in a large stew-pan1 and cover them with water3 when the liquor boils1 skim it well1 and let it boil gently six or seven hours1 that it may be reduced to about two quarts2 then strain it through a sieve1 and skim off all the oily substance which is on the surface of the liquor4 ,if you are not in a hurry1 it is better to boil the calves' feet the day before you make the jelly2 as when the liquor is cold1 the oily part being at the top1 and the other being firm1 with pieces of kitchen paper applied to it1 you may remove every particle of the oily substance1 without wasting any of the liquor4 ,put the liquor in a stew-pan to melt1 with a pound of lump sugar1 the peel of two lemons1 the juice of six1 six whites and shells of eggs beat together1 and a bottle of sherry or ,madeira2 whisk the whole together until it is on the boil2 then put it by the side of the stove1 and let it simmer a quarter of an hour2 strain it through a jelly-bag3 what is strained first must be poured into the bag again1 until it is as bright and as clear as rock-water2 then put the jelly in moulds1 to be cold and firm3 if the weather is too warm1 it requires some ice4 ,obs4--,when it is wished to be very stiff1 half an ounce of isinglass may be added when the wine is put in4 ,it may be flavoured by the juice of various fruits1 and spices1 c4 and coloured with saffron1 cochineal1 red beet juice1 spinage juice1 claret1 c42 and it is sometimes made with cherry brandy1 or noyeau rouge1 or ,curaoa 7,no4 #dgd71 or essence of punch 7,no4 #dgi71 instead of wine4 ,n4,b4 ,ten shank bones of mutton1 which may be bought for #b-a_/b;d41 will give as much jelly as a calf's foot1 which costs a shilling4 ,see pages #bbe1 #bbf of this work4 ,,footnotes3 #bbh-99 ,this may be easily accomplished by the aid of that whip and spur1 which students of long standing in the school of good living are generally so fond of enlivening their palates with1 i4 e4 ,cayenne and garlic4 ,parsley 7,no4 #bfa71 chervil 7,no4 #bfd71 celery 7,no4 #bhi71 cress 7,no4 #cig9971 tarragon 7,no4 #cif71 burnet 7,no4 #cii71 basil 7,no4 #cig71 eschalot 7,nos4 #bie and #djc71 caper 7,nos4 #bgd and #bie71 fennel 7,no4 #bfe71 liver 7,nos4 #bhg and #bhh71 curry 7,nos4 #cdh and #dee71 egg1 7,no4 #bfg17 mushroom 7,no4 #djc71 anchovy 7,nos4 #bgj and #dcc71 ragot 7,nos4 #dba and #deg71 shrimp 7,no4 #bhc71 bonne bouche 7,no4 #cda17 superlative 7,no4 #dbi71 and various flavouring essences4 ,see from ,no4 #cif to #dfc4 ,any of the above vegetables1 c4 may be minced very finely1 and sent to table on a little plate1 and those who like their flavour may mix them with melted butter1 c4 ,this is a hint for economists1 which will save them many pounds of butter1 c4 ,see ,,mem4 to ,no4 #bef4 #bbh- ,a silver saucepan is infinitely the best3 you may have one big enough to melt butter for a moderate family1 for four or five pounds4 #bcd-99 ,oysters which come to the ,new-,york market1 are too large and fine to be mangled according to this receipt4 ,they are generally cooked by being fried or stewed4 ,when they are intended to be kept a length of time1 they are pickled in vinegar1 with spices4 ,a4 #bcf-99 ,you must have a hen lobster1 on account of the live spawn4 ,some fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the fish before they are boiled4 ,lift up the tail of the lobster1 and see that it has not been robbed of its eggs3 the goodness of your sauce depends upon its having a full share of the spawn in it1 to which it owes not merely its brilliant red colour1 but the finest part of its flavour4 #bch-99 ,so much depends upon the age of the celery1 that we cannot give any precise time for this1 young1 fresh-gathered celery will be done enough in three-quarters of an hour2 old will sometimes take twice as long4 #bdj-99 ,if you wish to have them very mild1 cut them in quarters1 boil them for five minutes in plenty of water1 and then drain them1 and cook them in fresh water4 #bdd-99 ,composer and ,director of the ,music of the ,theatre ,royal ,drury ,lane1 and the ,italian ,opera4 #bdf-99 ,by the best accounts ,i can find1 soy is a preparation from the seeds of a species of the ,dolichos1 prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt4--,,cullen',s ,mat4 ,med4 vol4 i4 p4 #dcj4 #bej-99 ,one of les bonnes hommes de bouche de ,france orders the following addition for game gravy3--,for a pint1 par-roast a partridge or a pigeon2 cut off the meat of it1 pound it in a mortar1 and put it into the stew-pan when you thicken the sauce4 ,we do not recommend either soup or sauce to be thickened1 because it requires 7to give it the same quickness on the palate it had before it was thickened7 double the quantity of piquante materials2 which are thus smuggled down the red lane1 without affording any amusement to the mouth1 and at the risk of highly offending the stomach4 #bea-99 ,to this some add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 and instead of the salt-spoonful of salt1 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,if the above articles are rubbed together in a mortar1 and put into a close-stopped bottle1 they will keep for some time4 #bea- ,thus far the above is from ,dr4 ,,hunter',s ,culina1 who says it is a secret worth knowing3 we agree with him1 and so tell it here1 with a little addition1 which we think renders it a still more gratifying communication4 #beb-99 ,see ,basil ,wine 7,no4 #cig74 #bfj-99 ,these are sold at the glass-shops under the name of ,,incorporators3 we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these1 and the company can then take it or leave it1 as they like4 #bfc-99 ,if you have no suet1 the best substitute for it is about one-third part the quantity of butter4 #bfg-99 ,a baine-marie4 ,see note to ,no4 #dhe4 #bge-99 ,the fragrant aroma of ginger is so extremely volatile1 that it evaporates almost as soon as it is powdered2 and the fine lemon-peel got flies off presently4 #bge- ,tinctures are much finer flavoured than essences4 #bgg-99 ,for the season1 c4 when these herbs1 c4 come in perfection1 and how to dry them1 see ,no4 #dfa4 #bgh-99 ,we hope this title will not offend those who may quote against it the old adage1 that good appetite is the best sauce4--,allowing this to be generally true 7which is a more candid confession than could be expected from a cook71 we dare say1 the majority of our readers will vote with us1 that there are many good things 7fish especially7 that would be rather insipid without a little sauce of another kind4 ,wherefore did ,nature pour her bounties forth1 ,with such a full and unwithdrawing hand1 ,covering the earth with odours1 fruits1 and flocks1 ,thronging the sea with spawn innumerable2 ,but all to please and sate the curious taste8 ,,milton4 #bhj-99 ,several samples which we examined of this fish sauce1 have been found contaminated with lead4--,see ,,accum on ,adulteration1 page #cbh4 #bhj- ,they may do very well for common palates2 but to imitate the fine flavour of the ,gorgona fish1 so as to impose upon a well-educated gourmand1 still remains in the catalogue of the sauce-maker's desiderata4 #bhj- ,the economist may take the thick remains that wont pass through the sieve1 and pound it with some flour1 and make anchovy paste1 or powder4 ,see ,nos4 #dcd and #dce4 #bha-99 ,epicure ,,quin used to say1 ,of all the banns of marriage ,i ever heard1 none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicate ,,ann-,,chovy with good ,,john-,,dory4 #bha- ,rust in anchovies1 if ,i'm not mistaken1 ,is as bad as rust in steel1 or rust in bacon4 ,,young',s ,epicure1 page #ad4 #bha- ,if you are not contented with the natural colour1 break some lobsters' eggs into it1 and you will not only heighten the complexion of your sauce1 but improve its flavour4 ,this is the only rouge we can recommend4 ,see note to ,no4 #bhd4 #bhc-99 ,the mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catchup1 are generally those which are in a putrefactive state4 ,in a few days after those fungi have been gathered1 they become the habitations of myriads of insects4--,,accum on ,culinary ,poisons1 #abmo4 #ahbj1 p4 #cej4 #bhd-99 ,the squeezings are the perquisite of the cook1 to make sauce for the second table3 do not deprive her of it2 it is the most profitable save-all you can give her1 and will enable her to make up a good family dinner1 with what would otherwise be wasted4 ,after the mushrooms have been squeezed1 dry them in the ,dutch oven1 and make mushroom powder4 #bhf-99 ,potatoes1 in whatever condition1 whether spoiled by frost1 germination1 c41 provided they are raw1 constantly afford starch1 differing only in quality1 the round gray ones the most2 a pound producing about two ounces4--,,parmentier on ,nutritive ,vegetables1 #hvo4 p4 #ca4 #ajjlb4 of potatoes yield #ajlb4 of starch4--,s4 ,,gray',s ,supplement to the ,pharmacopoeia1 #hvo4 #ahba1 p4 #aih4 #bhh-99 ,if you like the flavour1 and do not dislike the expense1 instead of allspice1 put in mace and cloves4 ,the above is very similar to the powder-fort used in ,king ,richard the ,second's kitchen1 ,a4 ,d4 #acij4 ,see ,pegge ,forme of ,cury p4 xxx4 #bhh- ,the back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire1 that to dry things equally1 their situation must be frequently changed1 or those at the back of the oven will be done too much1 before those in the front are done enough4 #bia-99 ,this is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale4 ,if you buy them ready dried1 before you pound them1 cleanse them from dirt and dust by stripping the leaves from the stalks1 and rub them between your hands over a hair-sieve2 put them into the sieve1 and shake them well1 and the dust will go through4 #bia- ,the common custom is to put them into paper bags1 and lay them on a shelf in the kitchen1 exposed to all the fumes1 steam1 and smoke1 c43 thus they soon lose their flavour4 #bia- ,a delicious herb1 that deserves to be better known4 #bib-99 ,if the bottles are square1 and marked to quarter ounces1 as ,,lyne',s graduated measures are1 it will save trouble in compounding4 #bid-99 ,,borrage is one of the four cordial flowers2 it comforts the heart1 cheers melancholy1 and revives the fainting spirits1 says ,,salmon1 in the #deth page of his ,household ,companion ,london1 #agaj4 ,and ,,evelyn1 in page #ac of his ,acetaria1 says1 ,the sprigs in wine are of known virtue to revive the hypochondriac1 and cheer the hard student4--,combined with the ingredients in the above receipt1 we have frequently observed it produce all the cardiac and exhilarating effects ascribed to it4 #big-99 ,tartaric is only half the price of citric acid2 but it is very inferior in flavour1 c42 and those who prepare this syrup for home consumption1 will always use the citric4 #bih-99 ,the native blackberry of this country makes a very fine jelly1 and is medicinal in bowel complaints of children4 ,a4 ,,made ,,dishes1 ,c4 ,receipts for economical ,made ,dishes1 written for the ,cook's ,oracle1 by an accomplished ,english ,lady4--7,no4 #dhc47 ,these experiments have arisen from my aversion to cold meat1 and my preference for what are termed ,french dishes2 with which1 by a certain management1 ,i think ,i can furnish my table at far less expense than is generally incurred in getting up a plain dinner4 ,gravy or soup meats ,i never buy2 and yet am seldom without a good provision of what is technically denominated stock4 ,when1 as it frequently happens1 we have ham dressed2 if the joint be above the weight of seven pounds1 ,i have it cut in half1 and prepared in the following manner3 first1 ensure that it has been properly soaked1 scraped1 and cleaned to a nicety2 then put it into an earthen vessel1 as near its own size as possible1 with just as much water as will cover it2 to which add four onions1 a clove of garlic1 half a dozen eschalots1 a bay-leaf1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 half a dozen cloves1 a few peppercorns and allspice3 this should be well closed1 and kept simmering about three hours4 ,it is then served with raspings or with glazing1 the rind having first been taken off neatly4 ,the liquor is strained1 and kept till poultry of any sort1 or meat1 is boiled2 when the liquor in which they have been dressed should be added to it1 and boiled down fast till reduced to about three pints2 when cold1 it will be a highly flavoured1 well-coloured jelly1#cjj-99 and ready for sauce for all kinds of ragots and hashes1 c4 c4 ,a fillet of veal ,i divide into three parts2 the meat before it is skewered1 will of itself indicate where the partition is natural1 and will pull asunder as you would quarter an orange2 the largest piece should be stuffed with ,no4 #cgd or ,no4 #cge1 and rolled up1 compactly skewered1 c41 and makes a very pretty small fillet3 the square flat piece will either cut into cutlets 7,no4 #ij1 or ,no4 #eba71 or slice for a pie2 and the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as a fricandeau2 which ,i do in the following-manner3 put the larded veal into a stew-pan just big enough to contain it1 with as much water as will cover it2 when it has simmered till delicately white1 and so tender as to be cut with a spoon1 it must be taken out of the water and set apart2 and it will be ready to serve up either with sorrel1 tomata1 mushrooms 7,no4 #cje1 or ,no4 #dci71 or some of the above-mentioned stock1 the fricandeau being previously coloured with glazing2 if with mushrooms1 they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar1 and water1 which gives them flavour1 and keeps them of a good colour4 ,the sirloin of beef ,i likewise divide into three parts2 ,i first have it nicely boned4 ,the under part1 or fillet1 as the ,french call it1 will dress 7when cut into slices7 excellently1 either as plain steaks 7,no4 #id71 curry 7,no4 #aig71 or it may be larded whole1 and gently stewed in two quarts of water 7a bay-leaf1 two onions1 their skins roasted brown1 four cloves1 allspice1 c4 c47 till tender1 when it should be taken out1 drained quite dry1 and put away2 it is then ready to be used at any time in the following manner3 season and dredge it well1 then put it into a stewpan in which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a fine froth2 when the meat is sufficiently brown1 take it out1 and throw into the pan half a dozen middle-sized onions1 to do a fine gold colour2 that accomplished1 7during which the dredger should be in constant use17 add half a pint of stock1 and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar 7,no4 #cif71 and let the onions stew gently till nearly tender3 the beef should then be returned to the stew-pan1 and the whole suffered to simmer till the meat is warm through3 care must be taken that the onions do not break1 and they should be served round the beef with as much sauce as will look graceful in the dish4 ,the fillet is likewise very good without the fried onions2 in that case you should chop and mix up together an eschalot1 some parsley1 a few capers1 and the yelk of a hard egg1 and strew them lightly over the surface of the beef4 ,the fat end of the sirloin and bones should be put to simmer in the liquor in which the fillet was first stewed1 and done till the beef looks loose2 it should then be put away into a deep vessel1 and the soup strained over it1 which cooling with the fat upon the top 7thereby excluding the air71 will keep as long as may be required3 when the soup is to be used1 the fat must be cleared from it2 a carrot1 parsnip1 a head of celery1 a leek1 and three turnips1 cleaned and scalded1 should be added to it1 and the whole suffered to simmer gently till the vegetables are quite done1 when they must be strained from the liquor1 and the soup served up with large square thick pieces of toasted bread4 ,those who like a plain bouilli warm the beef in the soup1 and serve it up with the turnips and carrots which had been strained before from the soup4 ,a white cabbage quartered is no bad addition to the garnish of the bouilli1 or to the flavour of the soup4 ,if it is a dressed bouilli1 sliced carrots and button onions should be stewed in thickened stock1 and poured over the meat4 ,a neck of mutton boned1 sprinkled with dried sage1 powdered fine1 or 7,no4 #cgh7 seasoned1 rolled1 and roasted1 is very good4 ,the bones and scrag make excellent gravy stewed down1 and if done very gently1 the meat is not bad eating4 ,the same herbs should be put to it as to other stocks1 with the addition of a carrot2 this will make very good mutton broth4 ,in short1 wherever there are bones or trimmings to be got out of any meat that is dressed in my kitchen1 they are made to contribute towards soup or gravy1 or ,no4 #beb4 ,instead of roasting a hare1 7which at best is but dry food71 stew it1 if young1 plain2 if an old one1 lard it4 ,the shoulders and legs should be taken off1 and the back cut into three pieces2 these1 with a bay-leaf1 half a dozen eschalots1 one onion pierced with four cloves1 should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them1 for twenty-four hours1 in a deep dish4 ,in the mean time1 the head1 neck1 ribs1 liver1 heart1 c4 c4 should be browned in frothed butter well seasoned2 add half a pound of lean bacon1 cut into small pieces1 a large bunch of herbs1 a carrot1 and a few allspice2 simmer these in a quart of water till it be reduced to about half the quantity1 when it should be strained1 and those parts of the hare which have been infused in the vinegar1 should 7with the whole contents of the dish7 be added to it1 and stewed till quite done4 ,those who like onions may brown half a dozen1 stew them in a part of the gravy1 and dish them round the hare4 ,when it comes from the table1 supposing some to be left1 the meat should be taken from the bones1 and with a few forcemeat balls1 the remains of the gravy1 about a quarter of a pint of red wine1 and a proportionable quantity of water1 it will make a very pretty soup2 to those who have no objection to catchup 7,no4 #dci17 a spoonful in the original gravy is an improvement1 as indeed it is in every made dish1 where the mushroom itself is not at command4 ,every ragot1 in my opinion1 should be dressed the day before it is wanted1 that any fat which has escaped the skimming spoon1 may with ease be taken off when cold4 ,,calf',s ,,head4--,take the half of one1 with the skin on2 put it into a large stew-pan1 with1 as much water as will cover it1 a knuckle of ham1 and the usual accompaniments of onions1 herbs1 c4 c41 and let it simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon2 do so1 and while still hot1 cut it into as large a sized square as the piece will admit of2 the trimmings and half the liquor put by in a tureen2 to the remaining half add a gill of white wine1 and reduce the whole of that by quick boiling till it is again half consumed1 when it should be poured over the large square piece in an earthen vessel1 surrounded with mushrooms1 white button onions1 small pieces of pickled pork1 half an inch in breadth1 and one and a half in length1 and the tongue in slices1 and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up2 some browned forcemeat balls are a pretty addition4 ,after this comes from the table1 the remains should be cut into small pieces1 and mixed up with the trimmings and liquor1 which 7with a little more wine71 properly thickened1 will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future occasion4 ,to hash ,mutton1 c4--7,no4 #dhd47 ,cut the meat into slices1 about the thickness of two shillings1 trim off all the sinews1 skin1 gristle1 c42 put in nothing but what is to be eaten1 lay them on a plate1 ready2 prepare your sauce to warm it in1 as receipt 7,no4 #cfj1 or ,no4 #dea1 or ,no4 #dhf71 put in the meat1 and let it simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm3 do not let it boil1 as that will make the meat tough and hard1#cjc-99 and it will be1 as ,joan ,cromwell#cjc- has it1 a harsh4 ,obs4--,select for your hash those parts of the joint that are least done4 ,,mem4--,hashing is a mode of cookery by no means suited to delicate stomachs3 unless the meat1 c4 be considerably under-done the first time1 a second dressing must spoil it1 for what is done enough the first time1 must be done too much the second4 ,to warm ,hashes1#cjd-99 ,made ,dishes1 ,stews1 ,ragots1 ,soups1 c4--7,no4 #dhe47 ,put what you have left into a deep hash-dish or tureen2 when you want it1 set this in a stew-pan of boiling water3 let it stand till the contents are quite warm4 ,to hash ,beef1 c4--7,no4 #dhf47 ,put a pint and a half of broth1 or water1 with an ounce of ,no4 #beb1 or a large table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 into a stew-pan with the gravy you have saved that was left from the beef1 and put in a quarter ounce of onion sliced very fine1 and boil it about ten minutes2 put a large table-spoonful of flour into a basin1 just wet it with a little water1 mix it well together1 and then stir it into the broth1 and give it a boil for five or ten minutes2 rub it through a sieve1 and it is ready to receive the beef1 c42 let it stand by the side of the fire till the meat is warm4 ,n4,b4 ,a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped as fine as possible and put in five minutes before it is served up1 is a great addition2 others like half a wine-glass of port wine1 and a dessert-spoonful of currant jelly4 ,see also ,no4 #cfj1 which will show you every variety of manner of making and flavouring the most highly finished hash sauce1 and ,nos4 #dhd1 #dhe1 and #ejf4 ,cold ,meat broiled1 with ,poached ,eggs4--7,no4 #dhg47 ,the inside of a sirloin of beef is best for this dish1 or a leg of mutton4 ,cut the slices of even and equal thickness1 and broil and brown them carefully and slightly over a clear smart fire1 or in a ,dutch oven2 give those slices most fire that are least done2 lay them in a dish before the fire to keep hot1 while you poach the eggs1 as directed in ,no4 #edf1 and mashed potatoes 7,no4 #ajf74 ,obs4--,this makes a savoury luncheon or supper1 but is more relishing than nourishing1 unless the meat was under-done the first time it was dressed4 ,no4 #cjg for sauce1 to which some add a few drops of eschalot wine or vinegar4 ,see ,no4 #djb1 or ,no4 #dci1 or ,no4 #cei1 warmed2 or ,grill ,sauce 7,no4 #cee47 ,,mrs4 ,,phillips',s ,irish ,stew4--7,no4 #dhh47 ,take five thick mutton chops1 or two pounds off the neck or loin2 two pounds of potatoes2 peel them1 and cut them in halves2 six onions1 or half a pound of onions2 peel and slice them also3 first put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan1 then a couple of chops and some of the onions2 then again potatoes1 and so on1 till the pan is quite full2 a small spoonful of white pepper1 and about one and a half of salt1 and three gills of broth or gravy1 and two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup2 cover all very close in1 so as to prevent the steam from getting out1 and let them stew for an hour and a half on a very slow fire4 ,a small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish4 ,the cook will be the best judge when it is done1 as a great deal depends on the fire you have4 ,n4,b4 ,great care must be taken not to let it burn1 and that it does not do too fast4 ,to make an ,irish ,stew1 or ,hunter's ,pie4 ,take part of a neck of mutton1 cut it into chops1 season it well1 put it into a stew-pan1 let it brase for half an hour1 take two dozen of potatoes1 boil them1 mash them1 and season them1 butter your mould1 and line it with the potatoes1 put in the mutton1 bake it for half an hour1 then it will be done1 cut a hole in the top1 and add some good gravy to it4 ,n4,b4 ,the above is the contribution of ,mr4 ,morrison1 of the ,leinster hotel1 ,dublin4 ,a good ,scotch ,haggis4--7,no4 #dhh9947 ,make the haggis-bag perfectly clean2 parboil the draught2 boil the liver very well1 so as it will grate2 dry the meal before the fire2 mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small2 grate about half of the liver2 mince plenty of the suet and some onions small2 mix all these materials very well together1 with a handful or two of the dried meal2 spread them on the table1 and season them properly with salt and mixed spices2 take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing1 and some of the water that boiled the draught1 and make about a choppin 7i4 e4 a quart7 of good stock of it2 then put all the haggis meat into the bag1 and that broth in it2 then sew up the bag2 but be sure to put out all the wind before you sew it quite close4 ,if you think the bag is thin1 you may put it in a cloth4 ,if it is a large haggis1 it will take at least two hours boiling4 ,n4,b4 ,the above we copied verbatim from ,mrs4 ,,maciver4 a celebrated ,caledonian professor of the culinary art1 who taught1 and published a book of cookery1 at ,edinburgh1 ,a4 ,d4 #aghg4 ,minced ,collops4 ,this is a favourite ,scotch dish2 few families are without it3 it keeps well1 and is always ready to make an extra dish4 ,take beef1 and chop and mince it very small2 to which add some salt and pepper4 ,put this1 in its raw state1 into small jars1 and pour on the top some clarified butter4 ,when intended for use1 put the clarified butter into a frying-pan1 and slice some onions into the pan1 and fry them4 ,add a little water to it1 and then put in the minced meat4 ,stew it well1 and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up4--,the ,hon4 ,,john ,,cochrane',s ,seaman's ,guide1 #hvo4 #agig1 page #db4 ,haricot#cjf-99 ,mutton4--7,no4 #dhi47 ,cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton1 that has been kept till tender1 into chops of equal thickness1 one rib to each 7les bons hommes de bouche de ,paris cut two chops to one bone1 but it is more convenient to help when there is only one2 two at a time is too large a dose for ,john ,bull71 trim off some of the fat1 and the lower end of the chine bone1 and scrape it clean1 and lay them in a stew-pan1 with an ounce of butter2 set it over a smart fire2 if your fire is not sharp1 the chops will be done before they are coloured3 the intention of frying them is merely to give them a very light browning4 ,while the chops are browning1 peel and boil a couple of dozen of young button onions in about three pints of water for about fifteen or twenty minutes1 set them by1 and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stew-pan with the chops3 if that is not sufficient to cover them1 add as much boiling water as will2 remove the scum as it rises1 and be careful they are not stewed too fast or too much2 so take out one of them with a fish-slice1 and try it3 when they are tender1 which will be in about an hour and a half1 then pass the gravy through a sieve into a basin1 set it in the open air that it may get cold1 you may then easily and completely skim off the fat2 in the mean time set the meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot1 and pour some boiling water over the button onions to warm them4 ,have about six ounces of carrots1 and eight ounces of turnips1 peeled and cut into slices1 or shaped into balls about as big as a nutmeg2 boil the carrots about half an hour1 the turnips about a quarter of an hour1 and put them on a sieve to drain1 and then put them round the dish1 the last thing4 ,thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 stir in as much flour as will stiffen it2 pour the gravy to it by degrees1 stir together till it boils2 strain it through a fine sieve or tamis into a stew-pan1 put in the carrots and turnips to get warm1 and let it simmer gently while you dish up the meat2 lay the chops round a dish2 put the vegetables in the middle1 and pour the thickened gravy over4 ,some put in capers1 c4 minced gherkins1 c4 ,obs4--,rump-steaks1 veal-cutlets1 and beef-tails1 make excellent dishes dressed in the like manner4 ,mutton-,chops delicately stewed1 and good ,mutton ,broth1--7,no4 #dij47 ,put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them1 and an onion3 when it is coming to a boil1 skim it1 cover the pan close1 and set it over a very slow fire till the chops are tender3 if they have been kept a proper time1 they will take about three quarters of an hour's very gentle simmering4 ,send up turnips with them 7,no4 #acj72 they may be boiled with the chops2 skim well1 and then send all up in a deep dish1 with the broth they were stewed in4 ,n4 ,b4 ,the broth will make an economist one1 and the meat another1 wholesome and comfortable meal4 ,shoulder of ,lamb grilled4--7,no4 #dia47 ,boil it2 score it in checkers about an inch square1 rub it over with the yelk of an egg1 pepper and salt it1 strew it with bread-crumbs and dried parsley1 or sweet herbs1 or ,no4 #deg1 or ,no4 #dei1 and ,carbonado1 i4 e4 grill1 i4 e4 broil it over a clear fire1 or put it in a ,dutch oven till it is a nice light brown2 send up some gravy with it1 or make a sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of fresh butter1 a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,see also grill sauce 7,no4 #cee74 ,n4,b4 ,breasts of lamb are often done in the same way1 and with mushroom or mutton sauce 7,no4 #cjg74 ,lamb's ,fry4--7,no4 #dib47 ,fry it plain1 or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate1 and strew some fine stale bread-crumbs over it2 garnish with crisp parsley 7,no4 #chi74 ,for sauce1 ,no4 #cee1 or ,no4 #cef4 ,shin of ,beef#cjh-99 stewed4--7,no4 #dic47 ,desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces1 put it into a stew-pan1 and just cover it with cold water2 when it simmers1 skim it clean2 then put in a bundle of sweet herbs1 a large onion1 a head of celery1 a dozen berries of black pepper1 and the same of allspice3 stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender2 this will take from about three hours and a half1 to four and a half4 ,take three carrots1 peel and cut them into small squares2 peel and cut ready in small squares a couple of turnips1 with a couple of dozen of small young round silver button onions2 boil them1 till tender2 the turnips and onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes2 the carrots will require about twice as long3 drain them dry4 ,when the beef is quite tender1 take it out carefully with a slice1 and put it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half of the gravy3 to do this1 mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a tea-cupful of the beef liquor2 to make soup of the rest of it1 see ,no4 #bch2 stir this thoroughly together till it boils1 skim off the fat1 strain it through a sieve1 and put your vegetables in to warm2 season with pepper1 salt1 and a wine-glass of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or port wine1 or both1 and pour it over the beef4 ,send up ,wow-wow sauce 7,no4 #cbh7 in a boat4 ,n4,b4 ,or1 instead of sending up the beef whole1 cut the meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table1 and lay it in the middle of the dish1 with the vegetables and sauce 7which1 if you flavour with ,no4 #dee1 you may call beef curry7 round it4 ,a leg of mutton is excellent dressed in the same way2 equal to le gigot de sept heures1 so famous in the ,french kitchen4 ,obs4--,this stew has every claim to the attention of the rational epicure1 being one of those in which frugality1 nourishment1 and palatableness1 are most happily combined2 and you get half a gallon of excellent broth into the bargain4 ,we advise the mistress of the table to call it ragot beef3 this will ensure its being eaten with unanimous applause2 the homely appellation of shin of beef stewed1 is enough to give your genteel eater the locked jaw4 ,remember1 when the judgment's weak1 the prejudice is strong4 ,our modern epicures resemble the ancient1#cji-99 who thought the dearest dish must be the most delicious3 ----,and think all wisdom lies ,in being impertinently nice4 ,thus1 they reckon turtle and punch to be sheventy-foive per shent more inviting than mock turtle and good malt liquor3 however bad the former may be1 and however good the latter1 we wish these folks could be made to understand1 that the soup for each1 and all the accompaniments1 are precisely the same3 there is this only difference1 the former is commonly made with a starved turtle 7see ,notes at the foot of page #bbj71 the latter with a fatted calf4 ,see ,nos4 #bdg1 #cdc1 and #cdc994 ,the scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be surprising1 when we reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who assume the character of scientific gourmands1#cji- so extremely ignorant of the affairs of the mouth1 they seem hardly to know a sheep's head from a carrot2 and their real pretensions to be profound palaticians1 are as moderate as the wine-merchant's customer1 whose sagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite1 that he knew that ,port wine was black1 and that if he drank enough of it1 it would make him drunk4 ,brisket of ,beef stewed4--7,no4 #did47 ,this is prepared in exactly the same way as soup and bouilli4 ,see ,nos4 #e1 #bch1 or #dic4 ,haricot of ,beef4--7,no4 #die47 ,a stewed brisket cut in slices1 and sent up with the same sauce of roots1 c41 as we have directed for haricot of mutton 7,no4 #dhi71 is a most excellent dish1 of very moderate expense4 ,savoury ,salt ,beef baked4--7,no4 #dif47 ,the tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this purpose3 if it weighs fifteen pounds1 let it hang two or three days2 then take three ounces of saltpetre1 one ounce of coarse sugar1 a quarter of an ounce of black pepper1 and the same of allspice 7some add a quarter of an ounce of ginger1 or ,no4 #deg71 and some minced sweet and savoury herbs 7,no4 #dei71 and three quarters of a pound of common salt2 incorporate these ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar2 then take the bone out1 and rub the meat well with the above mixture1 turning it and rubbing it every day for a fortnight4 ,when you dress it1 put it into a pan with a quart of water2 cover the meat with about three pounds of mutton suet#caj-99 shredded rather thick1 and an onion or two minced small2 cover the whole with a flour crust to the top or brim of the pan1 and let it be baked in a moderate-heated oven for about six hours3 7or1 just cover it with water1 and let it stew very gently for about five hours1 and when you send it to table1 cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley47 ,if the beef weighs more1 put a proportional addition of all the ingredients4 ,the gravy you will find a strong consomm1 excellent for sauce or soup2 or making soy1 or browning1 see ,no4 #cbb1 and being impregnated with salt1 will keep several days4 ,this joint should not be cut till it is cold3 and then1 with a sharp knife1 to prevent waste1 and keep it even and comely to the eye4 ,obs4--,this is a most excellent way of preparing and dressing beef 7,no4 #ejc71 and a savoury dish for sandwiches1 c4 ,in moderate weather it will keep good for a fortnight after it is dressed3 it is one of the most economical and elegant articles of ready-dressed keeping provisions2 deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently have accidental customers dropping in at luncheon or supper4 ,curries4--7,no4 #dig2 see also ,no4 #bdi47 ,cut fowls or rabbits into joints1 and wash them clean3 put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 put in the meat1 and two middling-sized onions sliced1 let them be over a smart fire till they are of a light brown1 then put in half a pint of broth2 let it simmer twenty minutes4 ,put in a basin one or two table-spoonfuls of curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 a tea-spoonful of flour1 and a tea-spoonful of salt2 mix it smooth with a little cold water1 put it into the stew-pan1 and shake it well about till it boils3 let it simmer twenty minutes longer2 then take out the meat1 and rub the sauce through a tamis or sieve3 add to it two table spoonfuls of cream or milk2 give it a boil up2 then pour it into a dish1 lay the meat over it3 send up the rice in a separate dish4 ,obs4--,curry is made also with sweetbreads1 breast of veal1 veal cutlets1 lamb1 mutton or pork chops1 lobster1 turbot1 soles1 eels1 oysters1 c43 prepared as above1 or enveloped in ,no4 #cdh4 ,obs4--,this is a very savoury and economical dish1 and a valuable variety at a moderate table4 ,see ,wow-wow sauce 7,no4 #cbh74 ,stewed ,rump-,steaks4--7,no4 #ejj47 ,the steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling3 let them be all the same thickness1 or some will be done too little1 and others too much4 ,put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan1 with two onions2 when the butter is melted1 lay in the rump-steaks1 let them stand over a slow fire for five minutes1 then turn them and let the other side of them fry for five minutes longer4 ,have ready boiled a pint of button onions2 they will take from half an hour to an hour2 put the liquor they were boiled in to the steaks2 if there is not enough of it to cover them1 add broth or boiling water1 to make up enough for that purpose1 with a dozen corns of black pepper1 and a little salt1 and let them simmer very gently for about an hour and a half1 and then strain off as much of the liquor 7about a pint and a half7 as you think will make the sauce4 ,put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan2 when it is melted1 stir in as much flour as will make it into a stiff paste2 some add thereto a table-spoonful of claret1 or ,port wine1 the same of mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 half a tea-spoonful of salt1 and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper3 add the liquor by degrees2 let it boil up for fifteen minutes2 skim it1 and strain it2 serve up the steaks with the onions round the dish1 and pour the gravy over4 ,veal-cutlets or mutton-chops may be done the same way1 or as veal-olives 7,no4 #eah74 ,this is generally a second-course dish1 and is usually made too rich1 and only fit to re-excite an appetite already satiated4 ,our endeavour is to combine agreeable savouriness with substantial nourishment2 those who wish to enrich our receipt1 may easily add mushrooms1 wine1 anchovy1 ,cayenne1 bay-leaves1 c4 ,obs4 ,rump-steaks are in best condition from ,michaelmas to lady-day4 ,to ensure their being tender1 give the butcher three or four days' notice of your wish for them4 ,broiled ,rump-,steak with ,onion ,gravy4--7,no4 #eja47 ,see also ,no4 #bii4 ,peel and slice two large onions1 put them into a quart stew-pan1 with two table-spoonfuls of water2 cover the stew-pan close1 and set it on a slow fire till the water has boiled away1 and the onions have got a little browned2 then add half a pint of good broth1#cab-99 and boil the onions till they are tender2 strain the broth from them1 and chop them very fine1 and season it with mushroom catchup1 pepper1 and salt3 put the onion into it1 and let it boil gently for five minutes2 pour it into the dish1 and lay over it a broiled rump-steak4 ,if instead of broth you use good beef gravy1 it will be superlative4 99499 ,stewed cucumber 7,no4 #ace7 is another agreeable accompaniment to rump-steaks4 ,alamode ,beef1 or ,veal4--7,no4 #ejb47 ,in the #ahj volumes on ,cookery1 we patiently pioneered through1 before we encountered the tremendous labour and expense of proving the receipts of our predecessors1 and set about recording these results of our own experiments1 we could not find one receipt that approximated to any thing like an accurate description of the way in which this excellent dish is actually dressed in the best alamode beef shops2 from whence1 of course1 it was impossible to obtain any information3 however1 after all1 the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening of the gravy of beef that has been very slowly#cac-99 stewed1 and flavouring it with bay-leaves and allspice4 ,take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock1 or clod of beef1 or a blade-bone1 or the sticking-piece1 or the like weight of the breast of veal2 cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each2 put three or four ounces of beef drippings1 and mince a couple of large onions1 and put them into a large deep stew-pan2 as soon as it is quite hot1 flour the meat1 put it into the stew-pan1 keep stirring it with a wooden spoon2 when it has been on about ten minutes1 dredge it with flour1 and keep doing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it2 then cover it with boiling water 7it will take about a gallon71 adding it by degrees1 and stirring it together2 skim it when it boils1 and then put in one drachm of ground black pepper1 two of allspice1 and two bay-leaves2 set the pan by the side of the fire1 or at a distance over it1 and let it stew very slowly for about three hours2 when you find the meat sufficiently tender1 put it into a tureen1 and it is ready for table4 ,it is customary to send up with it a nice salad2 see ,no4 #cgb4 99499 ,to the above many cooks add champignons2 but as these are almost always decayed1 and often of deleterious quality1 they are better left out1 and indeed the bay-leaves deserve the same prohibition4 ,obs4 ,here is a savoury and substantial meal1 almost as cheap as the egg-broth of the miser1 who fed his valet with the water in which his egg was boiled1 or as the ,potage la ,pierre1 la ,soldat1#cac- mentioned by ,giles ,rose1 in the #dth page of his dedication of the perfect school of instruction for the officers of the mouth1 #ahmo4 ,london1 #afhb4 ,two soldiers were minded to have a soup2 the first of them coming into a house1 and asking for all things necessary for the making of one1 was as soon told that he could have none of those things there1 whereupon he went away2 the other1 coming in with a stone in his knapsack1 asked only for a pot to boil his stone in1 that he might make a dish of broth of it for his supper1 which was quickly granted him2 when the stone had boiled a little while1 he asked for a small piece of meat or bacon1 and a few herbs and roots1 c4 just merely to give it a bit of a flavour2 till1 by little and little1 he got all things requisite1 and so made an excellent pottage of his stone4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #dic4 s4 d4 ,onions1 pepper1 allspice1 and bay-leaves #j #c #aa pounds of beef #c #h ------- ,made eight quarts #c #aa i4 e4 sixpence per quart4 ,to pot ,beef1 ,veal1 ,game1 or ,poultry1 c4--7,no4 #ejc47 ,take three pounds of lean gravy beef1 rub it well with an ounce of saltpetre1 and then a handful of common salt2 let it lie in salt for a couple of days1 rubbing it well each day2 then put it into an earthen pan or stone jar that will just hold it2 cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off1 and pour in half a pint of water2 cover it close with paste1 and set it in a very slow oven for about four hours2 or prepare it as directed in ,no4 #dif4 ,when it comes from the oven1 drain the gravy from it into a basin2 pick out the gristles and the skins2 mince it fine2 moisten it with a little of the gravy you poured from the meat1 which is a very strong consomm 7but rather salt71 and it will make excellent pease soup1 or browning 7see ,no4 #cbb72 pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with some fresh butter1#cad-99 till it is a fine paste 7to make potted meat smooth there is nothing equal to plenty of elbow-grease72 seasoning it 7by degrees1 as you are beating it17 with a little black pepper and allspice1 or cloves pounded1 or mace1 or grated nutmeg4 ,put it in pots1 press it down as close as possible1 and cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter2 to prepare which1 see receipt ,no4 #bei1 and if you wish to preserve it a long time1 over that tie a bladder4 ,keep it in a dry place4 ,obs4 ,you may mince a little ham or bacon1 or an anchovy1 sweet or savoury herbs1 or an eschalot1 and a little tarragon1 chervil1 or burnet1 c41 and pound them with the meat1 with a glass of wine1 or some mustard1 or forcemeat 7,no4 #cgf1 or ,nos4 #cgh and #cii991 c472 if you wish to have it devilish savoury1 add ragot powder 7,no4 #deg71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 or zest 7,no4 #bee71 and moisten it with mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dci71 or essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc71 or tincture of allspice 7,no4 #dac71 or essence of turtle 7,no4 #cdc9971 or1 7,no4 #ejc9974 ,it is a very agreeable and economical way of using the remains of game or poultry1 or a large joint of either roasted or boiled beef1 veal1 ham1 or tongue1 c4 to mince it with some of the fat1 7or moisten it with a little butter1 or ,no4 #dci1 c47 and beat it in a mortar with the seasoning1 c41 as in the former receipt4 ,when either the teeth or stomach are extremely feeble1 especial care must be taken to keep meat till it is tender before it is cooked2 or call in the aid of those excellent helps to bad teeth1 the pestle and mortar4 ,and see ,nos4 #aj1 #ah1 #hg1 #hi1 #age1 #agh2 from #ahe to #bej1 #ejb1 #edb1 and especially #ejc4 ,or dress in the usual way whatever is best liked1 mince it1 put it into a mortar1 and pound it with a little broth or melted butter1 vegetable1 herb1 spice1 zest 7,no4 #bee71 c4 according to the taste1 c4 of the eater4 ,the business of the stomach is thus very materially facilitated4 ,flesh in small quantities1 bruised to a pulp1 may be very advantageously used in fevers attended with debility4--,,darwin',s ,zoonomia1 vol4 ii4 p4 #djj4 ,mincing or pounding meat saveth the grinding of the teeth2 and therefore 7no doubt7 is more nourishing1 especially in age1 or to them that have weak teeth2 but butter is not proper for weak bodies1 and therefore moisten it in pounding with a little claret wine1 and a very little cinnamon or nutmeg4--,lord ,,bacon2 ,natural ,history1 ,century #a4 #ed4 ,obs4--,meat that has been boiled down for gravies1 c4 see ,nos4 #ahe and #beb1 7which has heretofore been considered the perquisite of the cat7 and is completely drained of all its succulence1 beat in a mortar with salt and a little ground black pepper and allspice1 as directed in the foregoing receipt1 and it will make as good potted beef as meat that has been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted1 which it must be1 or it will not keep two days4 ,,mem4--,meat that has not been previously salted1 will not keep so long as that which has4 ,sandwiches1--7,no4 #ejd47 ,properly prepared1 are an elegant and convenient luncheon or supper1 but have got out of fashion1 from the bad manner in which they are commonly made3 to cut the bread neatly with a sharp knife seems to be considered the only essential1 and the lining is composed of any offal odds and ends1 that cannot be sent to table in any other form4 ,whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every bit of skin1 gristle1 c4 and nothing introduced but what you are absolutely certain will be acceptable to the mouth4 ,,materials ,,for ,,making ,,sandwiches4 ,cold meat1 or poultry4 ,potted ditto 7,no4 #ejc74 ,savoury ditto 7,no4 #dif74 ,potted lobster 7,no4 #agh71 or shrimp 7,no4 #age74 ,potted cheese 7,no4 #edb74 ,ditto1 or grated tongue4 ,potted1 or grated ham 7,no4 #eji74 ,anchovy 7,nos4 #dcd and #dce74 ,german sausage ,cold pork ditto 7,no4 #hg74 ,hard eggs1 pounded with a little butter and cheese4 ,grated ham1 or beef4 ,various forcemeats1 c4 7,no4 #cgc71 c4 ,curry-powder1 zest1 mustard1 pepper1 and salt are added occasionally4 ,meat ,cakes4--7,no4 #ejd9947 ,if you have any cold meat1 game1 or poultry 7if under-done1 all the better71 mince it fine1 with a little fat bacon or ham1 or an anchovy2 season it with a little pepper and salt2 mix well1 and make it into small cakes three inches long1 half as wide1 and half an inch thick3 fry these a light brown1 and serve them with good gravy1 or put it into a mould and boil or bake it4 ,n4,b4 ,bread-crumbs1 hard yelks of eggs1 onions1 sweet herbs1 savoury spices1 zest1 or curry-powder1 or any of the forcemeats4 ,see ,nos4 #cgc to #chb4 ,fish cakes for maigre days1 may be made in like manner4 ,bubble and ,squeak1 or fried ,beef or ,mutton and ,cabbage4--7,no4 #eje47 ,when 'midst the frying pan1 in accents savage1 ,the beef1 so surly1 quarrels with the cabbage4 ,for this1 as for a hash1 select those parts of the joint that have been least done2 it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted-beef1 sprinkled with a little pepper1 and just lightly browned with a bit of butter in a frying-pan3 if it is fried too much it will be hard4 ,boil a cabbage1 squeeze it quite dry1 and chop it small2 take the beef out of the frying-pan1 and lay the cabbage in it2 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it2 keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes2 lay the cabbage in the middle of a dish1 and the meat round it4 ,for sauce1 see ,no4 #cef1 or ,no4 #cbh4 ,hashed ,beef1 and roast ,beef bones boiled4--7,no4 #ejf47 ,to hash beef1 see receipt1 ,nos4 #dhd1 #e1 #f1 and ,nos4 #cfj1 #dhd1 and #dhf4 ,the best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the sirloin1 and the good housewife will always endeavour to preserve it entire for this purpose4 ,see ,obs4 to ,no4 #ai1 and mock hare1 ,no4 #ff994 ,roast beef bones furnish a very relishing luncheon or supper1 prepared in the following manner1 with poached eggs 7,no4 #edf71 or fried eggs 7,no4 #ede71 or mashed potatoes 7,no4 #ajf71 as accompaniments4 ,divide the bones1 leaving good pickings of meat on each2 score them in squares1 pour a little melted butter on them1 and sprinkle them with pepper and salt3 put them in a dish2 set them in a ,dutch oven for half or three quarters of an hour1 according to the thickness of the meat2 keep turning them till they are quite hot and brown2 or broil them on the gridiron4 ,brown them1 but don't burn them black4 ,for sauce1 ,nos4 #cee1 or #cef4 ,ox-,cheek stewed4--7,no4 #ejg47 ,prepare this the day before it is to be eaten2 clean it1 and put it into soft water just warm2 let it lie three or four hours1 then put it into cold water1 and let it soak all night2 next day wipe it clean1 put it into a stew-pan1 and just cover it with water2 skim it well when it is coming to a boil1 then put two whole onions1 stick two or three cloves into each1 three turnips quartered1 a couple of carrots sliced1 two bay-leaves1 and twenty-four corns of allspice1 a head of celery1 and a bundle of sweet herbs1 pepper1 and salt2 to these1 those who are for a haut got may add ,cayenne and garlic1 in such proportions as the palate that requires them may desire4 ,let it stew gently till perfectly tender1 i4 e4 about three hours2 then take out the cheek1 divide it into handsome pieces1 fit to help at table2 skim1 and strain the gravy2 melt an ounce and a half of butter in a stew-pan2 stir into it as much flour as it will take up2 mix with it by degrees a pint and a half of the gravy2 add to it a table-spoonful of basil1 tarragon1 or elder vinegar1 or the like quantity of mushroom or walnut catchup1 or cavice1 or port wine1 and give it a boil4 ,serve up in a soup or ragot-dish2 or make it into barley broth1 ,no4 #bjd4 ,obs4--,this is a very economical1 nourishing1 and savoury meal4 ,see ox-cheek soup1 ,no4 #bci1 and calf's head hashed1 ,no4 #ebj4 ,ox-,tails stewed4--7,no4 #ejh47 ,divide them into joints2 wash them2 parboil them2 set them on to stew in just water enough to cover them1--and dress them in the same manner as we have directed in ,no4 #eca1 ,stewed ,giblets1 for which they are an excellent substitute4 ,n4,b4--,see ,ox-,tail ,soup1 ,no4 #bdj4 ,potted ,ham1 or ,tongue4--7,no4 #eji47 ,cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled ,ham or ,tongue1 and pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of the fat1 or with fresh butter 7in the proportion of about two ounces to a pound71 till it is a fine paste 7some season it by degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice73 put it close down in pots for that purpose1 and cover it with ,clarified ,butter1 ,no4 #bei1 a quarter of an inch thick2 let it stand one night in a cool place4 ,send it up in the pot1 or cut out in thin slices4 ,see ,obs4 on ,no4 #ejc4 ,hashed ,veal4--7,no4 #eaa47 ,prepare it as directed in ,no4 #dhd2 and to make sauce to warm ,veal1 see ,no4 #cfa4 ,hashed or minced ,veal4--7,no4 #eaa9947 ,to make a hash#cah-99 cut the meat into slices2--to prepare minced veal1 mince it as fine as possible 7do not chop it72 put it into a stew-pan with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth1 or make some with the bones and trimmings1 as ordered for veal cutlets 7see ,no4 #hj1 or ,no4 #cfa71 a little lemon-peel minced fine1 a spoonful of milk or cream2 thicken with butter and flour1 and season it with salt1 a table-spoonful of lemon pickle1 or ,basil wine1 ,no4 #cig1 c41 or a pinch of curry powder4 99499 ,if you have no cream1 beat up the yelks of a couple of eggs with a little milk3 line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread4 ,obs4--,minced veal makes a very pretty dish put into scollop shells1 and bread crumbed over1 and sprinkled with a little butter1 and browned in a ,dutch oven1 or a cheese-toaster4 ,to make an excellent ,ragot of ,cold ,veal4--7,no4 #eab47 ,either a neck1 loin1 or fillet of veal1 will furnish this excellent ragot with a very little expense or trouble4 ,cut the veal into handsome cutlets2 put a piece of butter or clean dripping into a frying-pan2 as soon as it is hot1 flour and fry the veal of a light brown3 take it out1 and if you have no gravy ready1 make some as directed in the note to ,no4 #eag2 or put a pint of boiling water into the frying-pan1 give it a boil up for a minute1 and strain it into a basin while you make some thickening in the following manner3 put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan2 as soon as it melts1 mix with it as much flour as will dry it up2 stir it over the fire for a few minutes1 and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying-pan2 let them simmer together for ten minutes 7till thoroughly incorporated72 season it with pepper1 salt1 a little mace1 and a wine-glassful of mushroom catchup or wine2 strain it through a tamis to the meat1 and stew very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed4 ,if you have any ready-boiled bacon1 cut it in slices1 and put it in to warm with the meat1 or ,no4 #ebf or #ebg4 ,veal cutlets1 see ,no4 #ij1 c4 ,breast of ,veal stewed4--7,no4 #eae47 ,a breast of veal stewed till quite tender1 and smothered with onion sauce1 is an excellent dish2 or in the gravy ordered in the note to ,no4 #eag4 ,breast of ,veal ,ragot4--7,no4 #eag47 ,take off the under bone1 and cut the breast in half lengthways2 divide it into pieces1 about four inches long1 by two inches wide1 i4 e4 in handsome pieces1 not too large to help at once3 put about two ounces of butter into a frying-pan1 and fry the veal till it is a light brown1#cbj-99 then put it into a stew-pan with veal broth1 or as much boiling water as will cover it1 a bundle of sweet marjoram1 common or lemon-thyme1 and parsley1 with four cloves1 or a couple of blades of pounded mace1 three young onions1 or one old one1 a roll of lemon-peel1 a dozen corns of allspice bruised1 and a tea-spoonful of salt2 cover it close1 and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender1 i4 e4 for about an hour and a half1 if it is very thick1 two hours2 then strain off as much 7about a quart7 of the gravy1 as you think you will want1 into a basin2 set the stew-pan1 with the meat1 c4 in it by the fire to keep hot4 ,to thicken the gravy you have taken out1 put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan2 when it is melted1 stir in as much flour as it will take2 add the gravy by degrees2 season it with salt2 let it boil ten minutes2 skim it well1 and season it with two table-spoonfuls of white wine1 one of mushroom catchup1 and same of lemon-juice2 give it a boil up1 and it is ready3 now put the veal into a ragot dish1 and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it4 ,or1 ,by keeping the meat whole1 you will better preserve the succulence of it4 ,put the veal into a stew-pan1 with two ounces of butter and two whole onions 7such as weigh about two ounces each72 put it on the fire1 and fry it about five minutes2 then cover it with boiling water2 when it boils1 skim it2 then put in two small blades of mace1 a dozen blades of allspice1 the same of black pepper2 cover it close1 and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half2 then strain as much of the gravy as you think you will want into a basin2 put the stew-pan by the fire to keep hot4 ,to thicken it1 put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan3 when it is melted1 stir in as much flour as it will take2 add the gravy by degrees2 season it with salt1 and when it boils it is ready4 ,put the veal on a dish1 and strain the gravy through a fine sieve over it4 ,obs4--,forcemeat balls1 see ,no4 #cge1 c42 truffles1 morells1 mushrooms1 and curry powder1 c4 are sometimes added2 and rashers of bacon or ham1 ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg1 or fried pork sausages1 ,no4 #hc4 ,n4,b4 ,these are nice dishes in the pease season4 ,scotch ,collops4--7,no4 #eag9947 ,the veal must be cut the same as for cutlets1 in pieces about as big as a crown-piece2 flour them well1 and fry them of a light brown in fresh butter2 lay them in a stew-pan2 dredge them over with flour1 and then put in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal2 pour this in by degrees1 shaking the stew-pan1 and set it on the fire2 when it comes to a boil1 take off the scum1 put in one onion1 a blade of mace1 and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour2 lay them on a dish1 and pour the gravy through a sieve over them4 ,n4,b4 ,lemon-juice and peel1 wine1 catchup1 c41 are sometimes added2 add curry powder1 ,no4 #dee1 and you have curry collops4 ,veal ,olives4--7,no4 #eah47 ,cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal1 half an inch thick1 and as long and square as you can2 flat them with a chopper1 and rub them over with an egg that has been beat on a plate2 cut some fat bacon as thin as possible1 the same size as the veal2 lay it on the veal1 and rub it with a little of the egg2 make a little veal forcemeat1 see receipt1 ,no4 #cge1 and spread it very thin over the bacon2 roll up the olives tight1 rub them with the egg1 and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs2 put them on a lark-spit1 and roast them at a brisk fire3 they will take three quarters of an hour4 ,rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way4 ,mushroom sauce1 brown 7,nos4 #cje or #cjf71 or beef gravy 7,no4 #cbi74 ,vide chapter on sauces1 c4 ,cold ,calf's ,head hashed4--7,no4 #eai47 ,see ,obs4 to boiled calf's head1 ,no4 #aj4 ,calf's ,head hashed1 or ,ragot4--7,no4 #ebj47 ,see ,no4 #bdg4 ,wash a calf's head1 which1 to make this dish in the best style1 should have the skin on1 and boil it1 see ,no4 #aj2 boil one half all but enough1 so that it may be soon quite done when put into the hash to warm1 the other quite tender3 from this half take out the bones3 score it superficially2 beat up an egg2 put it over the head with a paste-brush1 and strew over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel1 and thyme and parsley1 chopped very fine1 or in powder1 then bread-crumbs1 and put it in the ,dutch oven to brown4 ,cut the other half-head into handsome slices1 and put it into a stew-pan with a quart of gravy 7,no4 #cbi71 or turtle sauce 7,no4 #cdc71 with forcemeat balls 7,nos4 #cgf1 #chj71 egg-balls1 a wine-glass of white wine1 and some catchup1 c42 put in the meat2 let it warm together1 and skim off the fat4 ,peel the tongue1 and send it up with the brains round it as a side dish1 as directed in ,no4 #aj2 or beat them up in a basin with a spoonful of flour1 two eggs1 some grated lemon-peel1 thyme1 parsley1 and a few leaves of very finely-minced sage2 rub them well together in a mortar1 with pepper1 salt1 and a scrape of nutmeg2 fry them 7in little cakes7 a very light brown2 dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in the middle2 and garnish with crisp1 or curled rashers of bacon1 fried bread sippets 7,nos4 #cai1 #ebf1 and #ebg71 and the brain cakes4 ,n4,b4 ,it is by far the best way to make a side dish of the tongue and brains1 if you do send up a piece of bacon as a companion for it1 or garnish the tongue and brains with the rashers of bacon and the forcemeat balls1 both of which are much better kept dry than when immersed in the gravy of the ragot4 ,obs4--,in order to make what common cooks1 who merely cook for the eye1 call a fine1 large1 handsome dishful1 they put in not only the eatable parts1 but all the knots of gristle1 and lumps of fat1 offal1 c42 and when the grand gourmand fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could wish1 he often finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of lumps of gristle1 fat1 c4 ,we have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only1 sent to table rolled up2 it looks like a sucking pig4 ,veal ,cutlets broiled plain1 or full-dressed4--7,no4 #eba47 ,divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets1 one rib to each2 broil them plain1 or make some fine bread-crumbs2 mince a little parsley1 and a very little eschalot1 as small as possible2 put it into a clean stew-pan1 with two ounces of butter1 and fry it for a minute2 then put on a plate the yelks of a couple of eggs2 mix the herbs1 c4 with it1 and season it with pepper and salt3 dip the cutlets into this mixture1 and then into the bread2 lay them on a gridiron over a clear slow fire1 till they are nicely browned on both sides2 they will take about an hour3 send up with them a few slices of ham or bacon fried1 or done in the ,dutch oven4 ,see ,nos4 #ebf and #ebg1 and half a pint of ,no4 #cdc1 or ,no4 #cef4 ,knuckle of ,veal1 to ragot4--7,no4 #ebb47 ,cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick2 pepper1 salt1 and flour them2 fry them a light brown2 put the trimmings into a stew-pan1 with the bone broke in several places2 an onion sliced1 a head of celery1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 and two blades of bruised mace3 pour in warm water enough to cover them about an inch2 cover the pot close1 and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours2 strain it1 and then thicken it with flour and butter2 put in a spoonful of catchup1 a glass of wine1 and juice of half a lemon2 give it a boil up1 and strain into a clean stew-pan2 put in the meat1 make it hot1 and serve up4 ,obs4--,if celery is not to be had1 use a carrot instead or flavour it with celery-seed1 or ,no4 #dji4 ,knuckle of ,veal stewed with ,rice4--7,no4 #ebc47 ,as boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish with the generality1 cut off some steaks from it1 which you may dress as in the foregoing receipt1 or ,no4 #eba1 and leave the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed4 ,break the shank-bone1 wash it clean1 and put it in a large stew-pan with two quarts of water1 an onion1 two blades of mace1 and a tea-spoonful of salt3 set it on a quick fire2 when it boils1 take off all the scum4 ,wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice2 put it into the stew-pan with the meat1 and let it stew very gently for about two hours3 put the meat1 c4 in a deep dish1 and the rice round it4 ,send up bacon with it1 parsnips1 or greens1 and finely minced parsley and butter1 ,no4 #bfa4 ,,mr4 ,,gay',s ,receipt to stew a ,knuckle of ,veal4--7,no4 #ebd47 ,take a knuckle of veal2 ,you may buy it or steal2 ,in a few pieces cut it1 ,in a stewing-pan put it2 ,salt1 pepper1 and mace1 ,must season this knuckle1 ,then1 what's joined to a place#cbc-99 ,with other herbs muckle2 ,that which kill'd ,king ,will1#cbd-99 ,and what never stands still#cbd- ,some sprigs of that bed1#cbd- ,where children are bred4 ,which much you will mend1 if ,both spinach and endive1 ,and lettuce and beet1 ,with marigold meet4 ,put no water at all1 ,for it maketh things small1 ,which lest it should happen1 ,a close cover clap on2 ,put this pot of ,wood's metal#cbd- ,in a boiling hot kettle2 ,and there let it be1 7,mark the doctrine ,i teach17 ,about1 let me see1 ,thrice as long as you preach4#cbd- ,so skimming the fat off1 ,say grace with your hat off1 ,o6 then with what rapture ,will it fill ,dean and ,chapter6 ,slices of ,ham or ,bacon4--7,no4 #ebf47 ,ham1 or bacon1 may be fried1 or broiled on a gridiron over a clear fire1 or toasted with a fork3 take care to slice it of the same thickness in every part4 ,if you wish it curled1 cut it in slices about two inches long 7if longer1 the outside will be done too much before the inside is done enough72 roll it up1 and put a little wooden skewer through it3 put it in a cheese-toaster1 or ,dutch oven1 for eight or ten minutes1 turning it as it gets crisp4 ,this is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon2 but we like it best uncurled1 because it is crisper1 and more equally done4 ,obs4--,slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half a quarter of an inch thick1 and will eat much more mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour1 and then dried in a cloth before they are broiled1 c4 ,relishing ,rashers of ,bacon4--7,no4 #ebg47 ,if you have any cold bacon1 you may make a very nice dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick2 grate some crust of bread1 as directed for ham 7see ,no4 #ad71 and powder them well with it on both sides2 lay the rashers in a cheese-toaster1 they will be browned on one side in about three minutes1 turn them and do the other4 ,obs4--,these are a delicious accompaniment to poached or fried ,eggs3 the bacon having been boiled#cbe-99 first1 is tender and mellow4 ,they are an excellent garnish round veal cutlets1 or sweet-breads1 or calf's-head hash1 or green pease1 or beans1 c4 ,hashed ,venison4--7,no4 #ebh47 ,if you have enough of its own gravy left1 it is preferable to any to warm it up in3 if not1 take some of the mutton gravy 7,no4 #cdg71 or the bones and trimmings of the joint 7after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can to make the hash72 put these into some water1 and stew them gently for an hour2 then put some butter into a stew-pan2 when melted1 put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter1 and stir it well together2 add to it by degrees the gravy you have been making of the trimmings1 and some red currant jelly2 give it a boil up2 skim it2 strain it through a sieve1 and it is ready to receive the venison3 put it in1 and let it just get warm3 if you let it boil1 it will make the meat hard4 ,hashed ,hare4--7,no4 #ebi47 ,cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table1 and divide the joints of the legs and shoulders1 and set them by ready4 ,put the trimmings and gravy you have left1 with half a pint of water 7there should be a pint of liquor71 and a table-spoonful of currant jelly1 into a clean stew-pan1 and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour3 then strain it through a sieve into a basin1 and pour it back into the stew-pan2 now flour the hare1 put it into the gravy1 and let it simmer very gently till the hare is warm 7about twenty minutes72 cut the stuffing into slices1 and put it into the hash to get warm1 about five minutes before you serve it2 divide the head1 and lay one half on each side the dish4 ,for hare soup1 see ,no4 #bda1 mock hare1 ,no4 #ff499 ,jugged ,hare4--7,no4 #ebi9947 ,wash it very nicely2 cut it up into pieces proper to help at table1 and put them into a jugging-pot1 or into a stone jar1#cbe- just sufficiently large to hold it well2 put in some sweet herbs1 a roll or two of rind of a lemon1 or a ,seville orange1 and a fine large onion with five cloves stuck in it1--and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the hare1 a quarter of a pint of water2 if you are for a ragot1 a quarter of a pint of claret1 or port wine1 and the juice of a ,seville orange1 or lemon3 tie the jar down closely with a bladder1 so that no steam can escape2 put a little hay in the bottom of the saucepan1 in which place the jar1 and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the top of the jar2 let the water boil for about three hours1 according to the age and size of the hare 7take care it is not over-done1 which is the general fault in all made dishes1 especially this71 keeping it boiling all the time1 and fill up the pot as it boils away4 ,when quite tender1 strain off the gravy clear from fat2 thicken it with flour1 and give it a boil up3 lay the hare in a soup-dish1 and pour the gravy to it4 ,obs4--,you may make a pudding the same as for roast hare 7see ,no4 #cig71 and boil it in a cloth2 and when you dish up your hare1 cut it in slices1 or make forcemeat balls of it1 for garnish4 ,for sauce1 ,no4 #cdf4 ,or1 ,a much easier and quicker1 and more certain way of proceeding1 is the following3 ,prepare the hare the same as for jugging2 put it into a stew-pan with a few sweet herbs1 half a dozen cloves1 the same of allspice and black pepper1 two large onions1 and a roll of lemon-peel3 cover it with water2 when it boils1 skim it clean1 and let it simmer gently till tender 7about two hours72 then take it up with a slice1 and set it by the fire to keep hot while you thicken the gravy2 take three ounces of butter1 and some flour2 rub together2 put in the gravy2 stir it well1 and let it boil about ten minutes2 strain it through a sieve over the hare1 and it is ready4 ,dressed ,ducks1 or ,geese hashed4--7,no4 #ecj47 ,cut an onion into small dice2 put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter2 fry it1 but do not let it get any colour2 put as much boiling water into the stew-pan as will make sauce for the hash2 thicken it with a little flour2 cut up the duck1 and put it into the sauce to warm2 do not let it boil2 season it with pepper and salt1 and catchup4 ,n4,b4 ,the legs of geese1 c4 broiled1 and laid on a bed of apple sauce1 are sent up for luncheon or supper4 ,or1 ,divide the duck into joints2 lay it by ready2 put the trimmings and stuffing into a stew-pan1 with a pint and a half of broth or water2 let it boil half an hour1 and then rub it through a sieve2 put half an ounce of butter into a stew-pan2 as it melts1 mix a table-spoonful of flour with it2 stir it over the fire a few minutes1 then mix the gravy with it by degrees2 as soon as it boils1 take off the scum1 and strain through a sieve into a stew-pan2 put in the duck1 and let it stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes1 if the duck is rather under-roasted3 if there is any fat1 skim it off3 line the dish you serve it up in with sippets of bread either fried or toasted4 ,ragots of ,poultry1 ,game1 ,pigeons1 ,rabbits1 c4--7,no4 #ecj9947 ,half roast it1 then stew it whole1 or divide it into joints and pieces proper to help at table1 and put it into a stew-pan1 with a pint and a half of broth1 or as much water1 with any trimmings or parings of meat you have1 one large onion with cloves stuck in it1 twelve berries of allspice1 the same of black pepper1 and a roll of lemon-peel2 when it boils1 skim it very clean2 let it simmer very gently for about an hour and a quarter1 if a duck or fowl--longer if a larger bird2 then strain off the liquor1 and leave the ducks by the fire to keep hot2 skim the fat off2 put into a clean stew-pan two ounces of butter2 when it is hot stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste2 add the liquor by degrees2 let it boil up2 put in a glass of port wine1 and a little lemon-juice1 and simmer it ten minutes2 put the ducks1 c4 into the dish1 and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them4 ,garnish with sippets of toasted1 or fried bread1 ,no4 #cai4 ,obs4--,if the poultry is only half roasted1 and stewed only till just nicely tender1 this will be an acceptable bonne bouche to those who are fond of made dishes4 ,the flavour may be varied by adding catchup1 curry powder1 or any of the flavoured vinegars4 ,this is an easily prepared side dish1 especially when you have a large dinner to dress2 and coming to table ready carved saves a deal of time and trouble2 it is therefore an excellent way of serving poultry1 c4 for a large party4 ,or1 ,roast or boil the poultry in the usual way2 then cut it up1 and pour over it a sufficient quantity of ,no4 #cje1 or ,no4 #cbi1 or ,no4 #cfd1 or ,no4 #b4 ,stewed ,giblets4--7,no4 #eca47 ,clean two sets of giblets 7see receipt for giblet soup1 ,no4 #bdd72 put them into a saucepan1 just cover them with cold water1 and set them on the fire2 when they boil1 take off the scum1 and put in an onion1 three cloves1 or two blades of mace1 a few berries of black pepper1 the same of allspice1 and half a tea-spoonful of salt2 cover the stew-pan close1 and let it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender3 this will take from one hour and a half to two and a half1 according to the age of the giblets2 the pinions will be done first1 and must then be taken out1 and put in again to warm when the gizzards are done3 watch them that they do not get too much done3 take them out and thicken the sauce with flour and butter2 let it boil half an hour1 or till there is just enough to eat with the giblets1 and then strain it through a tamis into a clean stew-pan2 cut the giblets into mouthfuls2 put them into the sauce with the juice of half a lemon1 a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup2 pour the whole into a soup-dish1 with sippets of bread at the bottom4 ,obs4--,ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent eating4 ,hashed ,poultry1 ,game1 or ,rabbit4--7,no4 #ecc47 ,cut them into joints1 put the trimmings into a stew-pan with a quart of the broth they were boiled in1 and a large onion cut in four2 let it boil half an hour2 strain it through a sieve3 then put two table-spoonfuls of flour in a basin1 and mix it well by degrees with the hot broth2 set it on the fire to boil up1 then strain it through a fine sieve3 wash out the stew-pan1 lay the poultry in it1 and pour the gravy on it 7through a sieve72 set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently 7it must not boil7 for fifteen minutes2 five minutes before you serve it up1 cut the stuffing in slices1 and put it in to warm1 then take it out1 and lay it round the edge of the dish1 and put the poultry in the middle2 carefully skim the fat off the gravy1 then shake it round well in the stew-pan1 and pour it to the hash4 ,n4,b4 ,you may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly toasted4 ,pulled ,turkey1 ,fowl1 or ,chicken4--7,no4 #ecd47 ,skin a cold chicken1 fowl1 or turkey2 take off the fillets from the breasts1 and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meat and wings1 side-bones1 and merry-thought1 with a pint of broth1 a large blade of mace pounded1 an eschalot minced fine1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a roll of the peel1 some salt1 and a few grains of ,cayenne2 thicken it with flour and butter1 and let it simmer for two or three minutes1 till the meat is warm4 ,in the mean time score the legs and rump1 powder them with pepper and salt1 broil them nicely brown1 and lay them on1 or round your pulled chicken4 ,obs4--,three table-spoonfuls of good cream1 or the yelks of as many eggs1 will be a great improvement to it4 ,to dress ,dressed ,turkey1 ,goose1 ,fowl1 ,duck1 ,pigeon1 or ,rabbit4--7,no4 #ece47 ,cut them in quarters1 beat up an egg or two 7according to the quantity you dress7 with a little grated nutmeg1 and pepper and salt1 some parsley minced fine1 and a few crumbs of bread2 mix these well together1 and cover the fowl1 c4 with this batter2 broil them1 or put them in a ,dutch oven1 or have ready some dripping hot in a pan1 in which fry them a light brown colour2 thicken a little gravy with some flour1 put a large spoonful of catchup to it1 lay the fry in a dish1 and pour the sauce round it4 ,you may garnish with slices of lemon and toasted bread4 ,see ,no4 #cee4 ,devil4--7,no4 #ech47 ,the gizzard and rump1 or legs1 c4 of a dressed turkey1 capon1 or goose1 or mutton or veal kidney1 scored1 peppered1 salted1 and broiled1 sent up for a relish1 being made very hot1 has obtained the name of a devil4 ,obs4--,this is sometimes surrounded with ,no4 #cef1 or a sauce of thick melted butter or gravy1 flavoured with catchup 7,no4 #dci71 essence of anchovy1 or ,no4 #dcd1 eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb71 curry stuff4 7,no4 #dee1 c47 ,see turtle sauce 7,no4 #cdc71 or grill sauce 7,no4 #cee71 which1 as the palates of the present day are adjusted1 will perhaps please grands gourmands as well as vritable sauce d',enfer4--,vide ,school for the ,officers of the ,mouth1 p4 #cfh1 #ahmo4 ,london1 #afhb4 ,every man must have experienced1 that when he has got deep into his third bottle1 his palate acquires a degree of torpidity1 and his stomach is seized with a certain craving1 which seem to demand a stimulant to the powers of both4 ,the provocatives used on such occasions1 an ungrateful world has combined to term devils4 ,the diables au feu d'enfer1 or dry devils1 are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry1 fish-bones1 or biscuits2 and1 if pungency alone can justify their appellation1 never was title better deserved1 for they are usually prepared without any other intention than to make them 'hot as their native element1' and any one who can swallow them without tears in his eyes1 need be under no apprehension of the pains of futurity4 ,it is true1 they answer the purpose of exciting thirst2 but they excoriate the palate1 vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination1 and pall the relish for the high flavour of good wine3 in short1 no man should venture upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic1 unless they be seasoned by a cook who can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should the scales of justice4 ,it would be an insult to the understanding of our readers1 to suppose them ignorant of the usual mode of treating common devils2 but we shall make no apology for giving the most minute instructions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant1 which1 besides1 possesses this advantage--that it may be all done at the table1 either by yourself1 or at least under your own immediate inspection4 ,mix equal parts of fine salt1 ,cayenne pepper1 and curry powder1 with double the quantity of powder of truffles3 dissect1 secundum artem1 a brace of woodcocks rather under-roasted1 split the heads1 subdivide the wings1 c4 c4 and powder the whole gently over with the mixture2 crush the trail and brains along with the yelk of a hard-boiled egg1 a small portion of pounded mace1 the grated peel of half a lemon1 and half a spoonful of soy1 until the ingredients be brought to the consistence of a fine paste3 then add a table-spoonful of catchup1 a full wine-glass of ,madeira1 and the juice of two ,seville oranges3 throw this sauce1 along with the birds1 into a silver stew-dish1 to be heated with spirits of wine3 cover close up1 light the lamp1 and keep gently simmering1 and occasionally stirring1 until the flesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid4 ,when you have reason to suppose it is completely saturated1 pour in a small quantity of salad oil1 stir all once more well together1 'put out the light1 and then6'--serve it round instantly2 for it is scarcely necessary to say1 that a devil should not only be hot in itself1 but eaten hot4 ,there is1 however1 one precaution to be used in eating it1 to which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention2 and for want of which1 more than one accident has occurred4 ,it is not1 as some people might suppose1 to avoid eating too much of it 7for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent72 but it is this3 in order to pick the bones1 you must necessarily take some portion of it with your fingers2 and1 as they thereby become impregnated with its flavour1 if you afterward chance to let them touch your tongue1 you will infallibly lick them to the bone1 if you do not swallow them entire4--,see page #abd1 c4 of the entertaining ,essays on ,good ,living4 ,crusts of ,bread for ,cheese1 c4--7,no4 #ech47 ,it is not uncommon to see both in private families and at taverns a loaf entirely spoiled1 by furious epicures paring off the crust to eat with cheese3 to supply this1 and to eat with soups1 c4 pull lightly into small pieces the crumb of a new loaf2 put them on a tin plate1 or in a baking dish2 set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp1 and nicely browned1 or do them in a ,dutch oven4 ,toast and ,cheese4--7,no4 #eci47 ,happy the man that has each fortune tried1 ,to whom she much has giv'n1 and much denied2 ,with abstinence all delicates he sees1 ,and can regale himself on toast and cheese4 ,,king',s ,art of ,cookery4 ,cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick2 pare off the crust1 and toast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown it1 without making it hard or burning it4 ,cut a slice of cheese 7good fat mellow ,cheshire cheese1 or double ,gloster1 is better than poor1 thin1 single ,gloster7 a quarter of an inch thick1 not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side3 pare off the rind1 cut out all the specks and rotten parts1#cca-99 and lay it on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster2 carefully watch it that it does not burn1 and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming on the surface4 ,have ready good mustard1 pepper and salt4 ,if you observe the directions here given1 the cheese will eat mellow1 and will be uniformly done1 and the bread crisp and soft1 and will well deserve its ancient appellation of a rare bit4 ,obs4--,one would think nothing could be easier than to prepare a ,welsh rabbit2 yet1 not only in private families1 but at taverns1 it is very seldom sent to table in perfection4 ,we have attempted to account for this in the last paragraph of ,obs4 to ,no4 #dic4 ,toasted ,cheese1 ,no4 #b4--7,no4 #edj47 ,we have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting the cheese in the last receipt1 except that in sending it up1 it will save much time in portioning it out at table1 if you have half a dozen small silver or tin pans to fit into the cheese-toaster1 and do the cheese in these3 each person may then be helped to a separate pan1 and it will keep the cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold plate4 ,,mem4 ,send up with it as many cobblers#cca- as you have pans of cheese4 ,obs4--,ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over comfort than in the serving out of this dish2 which1 to be presented to the palate in perfection1 it is imperatively indispensable that it be introduced to the mouth as soon as it appears on the table4 ,buttered ,toast and ,cheese4--7,no4 #eda47 ,prepare a round of toast2 butter it2 grate over it good ,cheshire cheese about half the thickness of the toast1 and give it a brown4 ,pounded ,cheese4--7,no4 #edb47 ,cut a pound of good mellow ,chedder1 ,cheshire1 or ,north ,wiltshire cheese into thin bits2 add to it two1 and if the cheese is dry1 three ounces of fresh butter2 pound1 and rub them well together in a mortar till it is quite smooth4 ,obs4--,when cheese is dry1 and for those whose digestion is feeble1 this is the best way of eating it2 and spread on bread1 it makes an excellent luncheon or supper4 ,n4,b4 ,the piquance of this is sometimes increased by pounding with it curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 ground spice1 black pepper1 cayenne1 and a little made mustard2 and some moisten it with a glass of sherry4 ,if pressed down hard in a jar1 and covered with clarified butter1 it will keep for several days in cool weather4 ,macaroni4--7,no4 #edc47 ,see ,macaroni ,pudding for the ,boiling of it4 ,the usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding a white sauce1 and parmesan or ,cheshire cheese1 and burning it2 but this makes a dish which is proverbially unwholesome3 its bad qualities arise from the oiled and burnt cheese1 and the half-dressed flour and butter put into the white sauce4 ,macaroni plain boiled1 and some rich stock or portable soup added to it quite hot1 will be found a delicious dish and very wholesome4 ,or1 boil macaroni as directed in the receipt for the pudding1 and serve it quite hot in a deep tureen1 and let each guest add grated parmesan and cold butter1 or oiled butter served hot1 and it is excellent2 this is the most common ,italian mode of dressing it4 ,macaroni with cream1 sugar1 and cinnamon1 or a little varicelli added to the cream1 makes a very nice sweet dish4 ,english way of dressing ,macaroni4 ,put a quarter of a pound of riband macaroni into a stew-pan1 with a pint of boiling milk1 or broth1 or water2 let it boil gently till it is tender1 this will take about a quarter of an hour2 then put in an ounce of grated cheese1 and a tea-spoonful of salt2 mix it well together1 and put it on a dish1 and stew over it two ounces of grated ,parmesan or ,cheshire cheese1 and give it a light brown in a ,dutch oven4 ,or put all the cheese into the macaroni1 and put bread-crumbs over the top4 ,macaroni is very good put into a thick sauce with some shreds of dressed ham1 or in a curry sauce4 ,riband macaroni is best for these dishes1 and should not be done so much4 ,macaroni ,pudding4 ,one of the most excellent preparations of macaroni is the ,timbale de ,macaroni4 ,simmer half a pound of macaroni in plenty of water1 and a table-spoonful of salt1 till it is tender2 but take care not to have it too soft2 though tender1 it should be firm1 and the form entirely preserved1 and no part beginning to melt 7this caution will serve for the preparation of all macaroni74 ,strain the water from it2 beat up five yelks and the white of two eggs2 take half a pint of the best cream1 and the breast of a fowl1 and some thin slices of ham4 ,mince the breast of the fowl with the ham2 add them with from two to three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated parmesan cheese1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,mix all these with the macaroni1 and put into a pudding-mould well buttered1 and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about an hour1 and serve quite hot1 with rich gravy 7as in ,omelette74 ,see ,no4 #edc994 ,obs4--,this1 we have been informed1 is considered by a grand gourmand as the most important recipe which was added to the collection of his cook during a gastronomic tour through ,europe2 it is not an uncommon mode of preparing macaroni on the continent4 ,omelettes and various ways of dressing ,eggs4--7,no4 #edc9947 ,there is no dish which in this country may be considered as coming under the denomination of a made dish of the second order1 which is so generally eaten1 if good1 as an omelette2 and no one is so often badly dressed3 it is a very faithful assistant in the construction of a dinner4 ,when you are taken by surprise1 and wish to make an appearance beyond what is provided for the every-day dinner1 a little portable soup melted down1 and some zest 7,no4 #bee71 and a few vegetables1 will make a good broth2 a pot of the stewed veal of ,morrison's1 warmed up2 an omelette2 and some apple or lemon fritters1 can all be got ready at ten minutes' notice1 and with the original foundation of a leg of mutton1 or a piece of beef1 will make up a very good dinner when company unexpectedly arrives1 in the country4 ,the great merit of an omelette is1 that it should not be greasy1 burnt1 nor too much done3 if too much of the white of the eggs is left in1 no art can prevent its being hard1 if it is done3 to dress the omelette1 the fire should not be too hot1 as it is an object to have the whole substance heated1 without much browning the outside4 ,one of the great errors in cooking an omelette is1 that it is too thin2 consequently1 instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth1 the substance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather3 to get the omelette thick is one of the great objects4 ,with respect to the flavours to be introduced1 these are infinite2 that which is most common1 however1 is the best1 viz4 finely chopped parsley1 and chives or onions1 or eschalots3 however1 one made of a mixture of tarragon1 chervil1 and parsley1 is a very delicate variety1 omitting or adding the onion or chives4 ,of the meat flavours1 the veal kidney is the most delicate1 and is the most admired by our neighbours the ,french3 this should be cut in dice1 and should be dressed 7boiled7 before it is added2 in the same manner1 ham and anchovies1 shred small1 or tongue1 will make a very delicately flavoured dish4 ,the objection to an omelette is1 that it is too rich1 which makes it advisable to eat but a small quantity4 ,an addition of some finely mashed potatoes1 about two table-spoonfuls1 to an omelette of six eggs1 will much lighten it4 ,omelettes are often served with rich gravy2 but1 as a general principle1 no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy1 but accompanied by it1 or what ought to eat dry and crisp1 becomes soddened and flat4 ,in the compounding the gravy1 great care should be taken that the flavour does not overcome that of the omelette1 a thing too little attended to3 a fine gravy1 with a flavouring of sweet herbs and onions1 we think the best2 some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar2 but this is to be done only with great care3 gravies to ,omelettes are in general thickened3 this should never be done with flour2 potato starch1 or arrow root1 is the best4 ,omelettes should be fried in a small frying-pan made for that purpose1 with a small quantity of butter4 ,the omelette's great merit is to be thick1 so as not to taste of the outside2 therefore use only half the number of whites that you do yelks of eggs3 every care must be taken in frying1 even at the risk of not having it quite set in the middle3 an omelette1 which has so much vogue abroad1 is here1 in general1 a thin doubled-up piece of leather1 and harder than soft leather sometimes4 ,the fact is1 that as much care must be bestowed on the frying1 as should be taken in poaching an egg4 ,a salamander is necessary to those who will have the top brown2 but the kitchen shovel may be substituted for it4 ,the following receipt is the basis of all omelettes1 of which you may make an endless variety1 by taking1 instead of the parsley and eschalot1 a portion of sweet herbs1 or any of the articles enumerated in the table of materials used for making forcemeats1 see ,no4 #cgc2 or any of the forcemeats between ,nos4 #cgc and #chf4 ,omelettes are called by the name of what is added to flavour them3 a ham or tongue omelette2 an anchovy1 or veal kidney omelette1 c43 these are prepared exactly in the same way as in the first receipt1 leaving out the parsley and eschalot1 and mincing the ham or kidney very fine1 c41 and adding that in the place of them1 and then pour over them all sorts of thickened gravies1 sauces1 c4 ,receipt for the common ,omelette4 ,five or six eggs will make a good-sized omelette2 break them into a basin1 and beat them well with a fork2 and add a salt-spoonful of salt2 have ready chopped two drachms of onion1 or three drachms of parsley1 a good clove of eschalot minced very fine2 beat it well up with the eggs2 then take four ounces of fresh butter1 and break half of it into little bits1 and put it into the omelette1 and the other half into a very clean frying-pan2 when it is melted1 pour in the omelette1 and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set1 then turn it up all round the edges1 and when it is of a nice brown it is done3 the safest way to take it out is to put a plate on the omelette1 and turn the pan upside-down3 serve it on a hot dish2 it should never be done till just wanted4 ,if maigre1 grated cheese1 shrimps1 or oysters4 ,if oysters1 boil them four minutes1 and take away the beard and gristly part2 they may either be put in whole1 or cut in bits4 ,or1 ,take eggs ready boiled hard1 and either fry them whole1 or cut them in half2 when they are boiled 7they will take five minutes71 let them lie in cold water till you want to use them2 then roll them lightly with your hand on a table1 and they will peel without breaking2 put them on a cloth to dry1 and dredge them lightly with flour2 beat two eggs in a basin1 dip the eggs in1 one at a time1 and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs1 or in duck 7,no4 #cgh7 or veal stuffing 7,no4 #cgd72 set them away ready for frying2 fry them in hot oil or clarified butter1 serve them up with mushroom sauce1 or any other thickened sauce you please2 crisp parsley is a pretty garnish4 ,or1 ,do not boil the eggs till wanted2 boil them ten minutes1 peel them as above1 cut them in half1 put them on a dish1 and have ready a sauce made of two ounces of butter and flour well rubbed together on a plate1 and put it in a stew-pan with three quarters of a pint of good milk2 set it on the fire1 and stir it till it boils2 if it is not quite smooth1 strain it through a sieve1 chop some parsley and a clove of eschalot as fine as possible1 and put in your sauce3 season it with salt to your taste3 a little mace and lemon-peel boiled with the sauce1 will improve it3 if you like it still richer1 you may add a little cream1 or the yelks of two eggs1 beat up with two table-spoonfuls of milk1 and stir it in the last thing3 do not let it boil after2 place the half eggs on a dish with the yelks upward1 and pour the sauce over them4 ,n4,b4 ,any cold fish cut in pieces may be warmed in the above sauce for a sent dinner4 ,or1 ,slice very thin two onions weighing about two ounces each2 put them into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter2 keep them covered till they are just done2 stir them every now and then1 and when they are of a nice brown1 stir in as much flour as will make them of a stiff paste2 then by degrees add as much water or milk as will make it the thickness of good cream2 season it with1 pepper and salt to your taste2 have ready boiled hard four or five eggs--you may either shred them1 or cut them in halves or quarters2 then put them in the sauce3 when they are hot they are ready3 garnish them with sippets of bread4 ,or1 have ready a plain omelette1 cut into bits1 and put them into the sauce4 ,or1 cut off a little bit of one end of the eggs1 so that they may stand up2 and take out the yelks whole of some of them1 and cut the whites in half1 or in quarters4 ,obs4--,this is called in the ,parisian kitchen1 eggs la trip1 with a roux4 ,marrow-,bones4--7,no4 #edd47 ,saw the bones even1 so that they will stand steady2 put a piece of paste into the ends3 set them upright in a saucepan1 and boil till they are done enough3 a beef marrow-bone will require from an hour and a half to two hours2 serve fresh-toasted bread with them4 ,eggs fried with ,bacon4--7,no4 #ede47 ,lay some slices of fine streaked bacon 7not more than a quarter of an inch thick7 in a clean dish1 and toast them before the fire in a cheese-toaster1 turning them when the upper side is browned2 first ask those who are to eat the bacon1 if they wish it much or little done1 i4 e4 curled and crisped1 see ,no4 #ebf1 or mellow and soft 7,no4 #ebg73 if the latter1 parboil it first4 ,well-cleansed 7see ,no4 #hc7 dripping1 or lard1 or fresh butter1 are the best fats for frying eggs4 ,be sure the frying-pan is quite clean2 when the fat is hot1 break two or three eggs into it2 do not turn them1 but1 while they are frying1 keep pouring some of the fat over them with a spoon2 when the yelk just begins to look white1 which it will in about a couple of minutes1 they are done enough2 the white must not lose its transparency1 but the yelk be seen blushing through it3 if they are done nicely1 they will look as white and delicate as if they had been poached2 take them up with a tin slice1 drain the fat from them1 trim them neatly1 and send them up with the bacon round them4 ,ragot of ,eggs and ,bacon4--7,no4 #ede9947 ,boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes2 throw them into cold water2 peel them and cut them into halves2 pound the yelks in a marble mortar1 with about an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl1 or veal1 a little chopped parsley1 an anchovy1 an eschalot1 a quarter of an ounce of butter1 a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup1 a little ,cayenne1 some bread-crumbs1 and a very little beaten mace1 or allspice2 incorporate them well together1 and fill the halves of the whites with this mixture2 do them over with the yelk of an egg1 and brown them in a ,dutch oven1 and serve them on relishing rashers of bacon or ham1 see ,no4 #ebg4 ,for sauce1 melted butter1 flavoured to the fancy of the eaters1 with mushroom catchup1 anchovy1 curry-powder 7,no4 #dee71 or zest 7,no4 #bee74 ,to poach ,eggs4--7,no4 #edf47 ,the cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching1 must endeavour to procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days--those that are quite new-laid are so milky that1 take all the care you can1 your cooking of them will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher2 you must have fresh eggs1 or it is equally impossible4 ,the beauty of a poached egg is for the yelk to be seen blushing through the white1 which should only be just sufficiently hardened1 to form a transparent veil for the egg4 ,have some boiling water#ccg-99 in a tea-kettle2 pass as much of it through a clean cloth as will half fill a stew-pan2 break the egg into a cup1 and when the water boils1 remove the stew-pan from the stove1 and gently slip the egg into it2 it must stand till the white is set2 then put it over a very moderate fire1 and as soon as the water boils1 the egg is ready2 take it up with a slice1 and neatly round off the ragged edges of the white2 send them up on bread toasted on one side only1#cch-99 with or without butter2 or without a toast1 garnished with streaked bacon 7,nos4 #ebf or #ebg71 nicely fried1 or as done in ,no4 #ede1 or slices of broiled beef or mutton 7,no4 #dhg71 anchovies 7,nos4 #dcd and #dce71 pork sausages 7,no4 #hg71 or spinage 7,no4 #abb74 ,obs4--,the bread should be a little larger than the egg1 and about a quarter of an inch thick2 only just give it a yellow colour3 if you toast it brown1 it will get a bitter flavour2 or moisten it by pouring a little hot water upon it3 some sprinkle it with a few drops of vinegar1 or of essence of anchovy 7,no4 #dcc74 ,to boil ,eggs to eat in the ,shell1 or for ,salads4--7,no4 #edg47 ,the fresher laid the better3 put them into boiling water2 if you like the white just set1#cch- about two minutes boiling is enough2 a new-laid egg will take a little more2 if you wish the yelk to be set1 it will take three1 and to boil it hard for a salad1 ten minutes4 ,see ,no4 #cgb4 ,obs4--,a new-laid egg will require boiling longer than a stale one1 by half a minute4 ,tin machines for boiling eggs on the breakfast table are sold by the ironmongers1 which perform the process very regularly3 in four minutes the white is just set4 ,n4,b4 ,eggs may be preserved for twelve months1 in a sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell1 or using for salads1 by boiling them for one minute2 and when wanted for use let them be boiled in the usual manner3 the white may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg1 but the yelk will show no difference4--,see ,,hunter',s ,culina1 page #beg4 ,eggs poached with ,sauce of minced ,ham4--7,no4 #edh47 ,poach the eggs as before directed1 and take two or three slices of boiled ham2 mince it fine with a gherkin1 a morsel of onion1 a little parsley1 and pepper and salt2 stew all together a quarter of an hour2 serve up your sauce about half boiling2 put the eggs in a dish1 squeeze over the juice of half a ,seville orange1 or lemon1 and pour the sauce over them4 ,fried ,eggs and minced ,ham or ,bacon4--7,no4 #edi47 ,choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of lean2 cut this into very thin slices1 and afterward into small square pieces2 throw them into a stew-pan1 and set it over a gentle fire1 that they may lose some of their fat4 ,when as much as will freely come is thus melted from them1 lay them on a warm dish4 ,put into a stew-pan a ladle-full of melted bacon or lard2 set it on a stove2 put in about a dozen of the small pieces of bacon1 then stoop the stew-pan and break in an egg4 ,manage this carefully1 and the egg will presently be done3 it will be very round1 and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over1 so that it will make a very pretty appearance4 ,take care the yelks do not harden2 when the egg is thus done1 lay it carefully in a warm dish1 and do the others4 99499 ,they reckon #fhe ways of dressing eggs in the ,french kitchen3 we hope our half dozen receipts give sufficient variety for the ,english kitchen4 ,tea4#cci-99--7,no4 #eej47 ,the ,jesuit that came from ,china1 ,a4,d4 #affd1 told ,mr4 ,waller1 that to a drachm of tea they put a pint of water1 and frequently take the yelks of two new-laid eggs1 and beat them up with as much fine sugar as is sufficient for the tea1 and stir all well together4 ,he also informed him1 that we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea1 which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb2 the water must remain upon it no longer than while you can say the ',miserere' psalm very leisurely2 you have then only the spiritual part of the tea1 the proportion of which to the water must be about a drachm to a pint4--,sir ,,kenelm ,,digby',s ,cookery1 ,london1 #affi1 page #agf4 ,obs4--,the addition of an egg makes the ,chinese ,soup1 a more nutritious and substantial meal for a traveller4 ,coffee4#cdj-99 ,coffee1 as used on the ,continent1 serves the double purpose of an agreeable tonic1 and an exhilarating beverage1 without the unpleasant effects of wine4 ,coffee1 as drunk in ,england1 debilitates the stomach1 and produces a slight nausea4 ,in ,france and in ,italy it is made strong from the best coffee1 and is poured out hot and transparent4 ,in ,england it is usually made from bad coffee1 served out tepid and muddy1 and drowned in a deluge of water1 and sometimes deserves the title given it in the ,petition against ,coffee1 #dto4 #afgd1 page #d1 a base1 black1 thick1 nasty1 bitter1 stinking puddle water4 ,to make ,coffee fit for use1 you must employ the ,german filter1--pay at least #ds4 the pound for it1--and take at least an ounce for two breakfast-cups4 ,no coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in ,london4 ,london people should either take their coffee pure1 or put a couple of tea-spoonfuls of cream to each cup4 ,n4,b4 ,the above is a contribution from an intelligent traveller1 who has passed some years on the ,continent4 ,suet ,pudding1 ,wiggy's way4--7,no4 #eea47 ,suet1 a quarter of a pound2 flour1 three table-spoonfuls2 eggs1 two2 and a little grated ginger2 milk1 half a pint4 ,mince the suet as fine as possible1 roll it with the rolling-pin so as to mix it well with the flour2 beat up the eggs1 mix them with the milk1 and then mix all together2 wet your cloth well in boiling water1 flour it1 tie it loose1 put it into boiling water1 and boil it an hour and a quarter4 ,mrs4 ,glasse has it1 when you have made your water boil1 then put your pudding into your pot4 ,yorkshire ,pudding under roast ,meat1 the ,gipsies' way4--7,no4 #eeb47 ,this pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment to a sir-loin of beef1--loin of veal1--or any fat and juicy joint4 ,six table-spoonfuls of flour1 three eggs1 a tea-spoonful of salt1 and a pint of milk1 so as to make a middling stiff batter1 a little stiffer than you would for pancakes2 beat it up well1 and take care it is not lumpy2 put a dish under the meat1 and let the drippings drop into it till it is quite hot and well greased2 then pour in the batter2--when the upper surface is brown and set1 turn it1 that both sides may be brown alike3 if you wish it to cut firm1 and the pudding an inch thick1 it will take two hours at a good fire4 ,n4,b4 ,the true ,yorkshire pudding is about half an inch thick when done2 but it is the fashion in ,london to make them full twice that thickness4 ,plum ,pudding4--7,no4 #eec47 ,suet1 chopped fine1 six ounces2 ,malaga raisins1 stoned1 six ounces2 currants1 nicely washed and picked1 eight ounces2 bread-crumbs1 three ounces2 flour1 three ounces2 eggs1 three2 sixth of a nutmeg2 small blade of mace2 same quantity of cinnamon1 pounded as fine as possible2 half a tea-spoonful of salt2 half a pint of milk1 or rather less2 sugar1 four ounces3 to which may be added1 candied lemon1 one ounce2 citron1 half an ounce4 ,beat the eggs and spice well together2 mix the milk with them by degrees1 then the rest of the ingredients2 dip a fine close linen cloth into boiling water1 and put it in a hair-sieve2 flour it a little1 and tie it up close2 put it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boiling water3 keep a kettle of boiling water along side of it1 and fill up your pot as it wastes2 be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least4 ,my ,pudding4--7,no4 #eed47 ,beat up the yelks and whites of three eggs2 strain them through a sieve 7to keep out the treddles71 and gradually add to them about a quarter of a pint of milk1--stir these well together2 rub together in a mortar two ounces of moist sugar1 and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence1--stir these into the eggs and milk2 then put in four ounces of flour1 and beat it into a smooth batter2 by degrees stir into it seven ounces of suet 7minced as fine as possible71 and three ounces of bread-crumbs2 mix all thoroughly together at least half an hour before you put the pudding into the pot2 put it into an earthenware pudding-mould that you have well buttered2 tie a pudding-cloth over it very tight2 put it into boiling water1 and boil it three hours4 ,put one good plum into it1 and ,moost-,aye says1 you may then tell the economist that you have made a good plum pudding--without plums3 this would be what schoolboys call mile-stone pudding1 i4 e4 a mile between one plum and another4 ,n4,b4 ,half a pound of ,muscatel raisins cut in half1 and added to the above1 will make a most admirable plum pudding3 a little grated lemon-peel may be added4 ,obs4--,if the water ceases to boil1 the pudding will become heavy1 and be spoiled2 if properly managed1 this and the following will be as fine puddings of the kind as art can produce4 ,puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they are boiled2 the ingredients by that means amalgamate1 and the whole becomes richer and fuller of flavour1 especially if the various articles be thoroughly well stirred together4 ,a table-spoonful of treacle will give it a rich brown colour4 ,see pudding sauce1 ,no4 #bfi1 and pudding catchup1 ,no4 #ddf4 ,n4,b4 ,this pudding may be baked in an oven1 or under meat1 the same as ,yorkshire pudding 7,no4 #eeb72 make it the same1 only add half a pint of milk more3 should it be above an inch and a quarter in thickness1 it will take full two hours3 it requires careful watching1 for if the top gets burned1 an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of the pudding4 ,or1 butter some tin mince-pie patty-pans1 or saucers1 and fill them with pudding1 and set them in a ,dutch oven2 they will take about an hour4 ,maigre ,plum ,pudding4 ,simmer half a pint of milk with two blades of mace1 and a roll of lemon-peel1 for ten minutes2 then strain it into a basin2 set it away to get cold3 in the mean time beat three eggs in a basin with three ounces of loaf-sugar1 and the third of a nutmeg3 then add three ounces of flour2 beat it well together1 and add the milk by degrees3 then put in three ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces1 and three ounces of bread-crumbs2 three ounces of currants washed and picked clean1 three ounces of raisins stoned and chopped3 stir it all well together4 ,butter a mould2 put it in1 and tie a cloth tight over it4 ,boil it two hours and a half4 ,serve it up with melted butter1 two table-spoonfuls of brandy1 and a little loaf-sugar4 ,a ,fat ,pudding4 ,break five eggs in a basin2 beat them up with a tea-spoonful of sugar and a table-spoonful of flour2 beat it quite smooth2 then put to it a pound of raisins1 and a pound of suet2 it must not be chopped very fine2 butter a mould well2 put in the pudding2 tie a cloth over it tight1 and boil it five hours4 ,n4,b4 ,this is very rich1 and is commonly called a marrow pudding4 ,pease ,pudding4--7,no4 #eee47 ,put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth2 do not tie them up too close1 but leave a little room for them to swell2 put them on in cold water1 to boil slowly till they are tender3 if they are good pease they will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half2 rub them through a sieve into a deep dish1 adding#cdc-99 to them an egg or two1 an ounce of butter1 and some pepper and salt2 beat them well together for about ten minutes1 when these ingredients are well incorporated together2 then flour the cloth well1 put the pudding in1 and tie it up as tight as possible1 and boil it an hour longer4 ,it is as good with boiled beef as it is with boiled pork2 and why not with roasted pork8 ,obs4--,this is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef4 ,n4,b4 ,stir this pudding into two quarts of the liquor meat or poultry has been boiled in2 give it a boil up1 and in five minutes it will make excellent extempore pease soup1 especially if the pudding has been boiled in the same pot as the meat 7see ,no4 #bah1 c47 ,season it with pease powder1 ,no4 #deh4 ,plain ,bread ,pudding4--7,no4 #eef47 ,make five ounces of bread-crumbs2 put them in a basin2 pour three quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them2 put a plate over the top to keep in the steam2 let it stand twenty minutes1 then beat it up quite smooth with two ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg4 ,break four eggs on a plate1 leaving out one white2 beat them well1 and add them to the pudding4 ,stir it all well together1 and put it in a mould that has been well buttered and floured2 tie a cloth over it1 and boil it one hour4 ,bread and butter ,pudding4--7,no4 #eeg47 ,you must have a dish that will hold a quart3 wash and pick two ounces of currants2 strew a few at the bottom of the dish2 cut about four layers of very thin bread and butter1 and between each layer of bread and butter strew some currants2 then break four eggs in a basin1 leaving out one white2 beat them well1 and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm of nutmeg2 stir it well together with a pint of new milk2 pour it over about ten minutes before you put it in the oven2 it will take three quarters of an hour to bake4 ,pancakes and ,fritters4--7,no4 #eeh47 ,break three eggs in a basin2 beat them up with a little nutmeg and salt2 then put to them four ounces and a half of flour1 and a little milk2 beat it of a smooth batter2 then add by degrees as much milk as will make it of the thickness of good cream3 the frying-pan must be about the size of a pudding plate1 and very clean1 or they will stick2 make it hot1 and to each pancake put in a bit of butter about as big as a walnut3 when it is melted1 pour in the batter to cover the bottom of the pan2 make them the thickness of half a crown2 fry them of a light brown on both sides4 ,the above will do for apple fritters1 by adding one spoonful more of flour2 peel your apples1 and cut them in thick slices2 take out the core1 dip them in the batter1 and fry them in hot lard2 put them on a sieve to drain2 dish them neatly1 and grate some loaf-sugar over them4 ,tansy ,pancakes4 ,the batter for the preceding may be made into tansy pancakes by cutting fine a handful of young green tansy1 and beating it into the batter4 ,it gives the cakes a pleasant aromatic flavour1 and an agreeable1 mild bitter taste4 ,a4 ,no4 #efj ,the following receipts are from ,mr4 ,henry ,osborne1 cook to ,sir ,joseph ,banks1 the late president of the ,royal ,society3 ,soho ,square1 ,april #bj1 #ahbj4 ,sir1--,i send you herewith the last part of the ,cook's ,oracle4 ,i have attentively looked over each receipt1 and hope they are now correct1 and easy to be understood4 ,if you think any need further explanation1 ,sir ,joseph has desired me to wait on you again4 ,i also send the receipts for my ten puddings1 and my method of using spring fruit and gourds4 ,i am1 ,sir1 ,your humble servant1 ,,henry ,,osborne4 ,boston ,apple ,pudding4 ,peel one dozen and a half of good apples2 take out the cores1 cut them small1 put into a stew-pan that will just hold them1 with a little water1 a little cinnamon1 two cloves1 and the peel of a lemon2 stew over a slow fire till quite soft1 then sweeten with moist sugar1 and pass it through a hair sieve2 add to it the yelks of four eggs and one white1 a quarter of a pound of good butter1 half a nutmeg1 the peel of a lemon grated1 and the juice of one lemon3 beat all well together2 line the inside of a pie-dish with good puff paste2 put in the pudding1 and bake half an hour4 ,spring ,fruit ,pudding4 ,peel1 and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb3 put into a stew-pan with the pudding a lemon1 a little cinnamon1 and as much moist sugar as will make it quite sweet2 set it over a fire1 and reduce it to a marmalade2 pass through a hair-sieve1 and proceed as directed for the ,boston pudding1 leaving out the lemon-juice1 as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently acid of itself4 ,nottingham ,pudding4 ,peel six good apples2 take out the core with the point of a small knife1 or an apple corer1 if you have one2 but be sure to leave the apples whole2 fill up where you took the core from with sugar2 place them in a pie-dish1 and pour over them a nice light batter1 prepared as for batter pudding1 and bake an hour in a moderate oven4 ,butter ,pudding4 ,take six ounces of fine flour1 a little salt1 and three eggs2 beat up well with a little milk1 added by degrees till the batter is quite smooth2 make it the thickness of cream2 put into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake three quarters of an hour2 or into a buttered and floured basin1 tied over tight with a cloth3 boil one and a half hour1 or two hours4 ,newmarket ,pudding4 ,put on to boil a pint of good milk1 with half a lemon-peel1 a little cinnamon1 and a bay-leaf2 boil gently for five or ten minutes2 sweeten with loaf sugar2 break the yelks of five1 and the whites of three eggs1 into a basin2 beat them well1 and add the milk3 beat all well together1 and strain through a fine hair-sieve1 or tamis3 have some bread and butter cut very thin2 lay a layer of it in a pie-dish1 and then a layer of currants1 and so on till the dish is nearly full2 then pour the custard over it1 and bake half an hour4 ,newcastle1 or ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,butter a half melon mould1 or quart basin1 and stick all round with dried cherries1 or fine raisins1 and fill up with bread and butter1 c4 as in the above2 and steam it an hour and a half4 ,vermicelli ,pudding4 ,boil a pint of milk1 with lemon-peel and cinnamon2 sweeten with loaf-sugar2 strain through a sieve1 and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli2 boil ten minutes2 then put in the yelks of five1 and the whites of three eggs2 mix well together1 and steam it one hour and a quarter3 the same may be baked half an hour4 ,bread ,pudding4 ,make a pint of bread-crumbs2 put them in a stew-pan with as much milk as will cover them1 the peel of a lemon1 a little nutmeg grated1 and a small piece of cinnamon2 boil about ten minutes2 sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar2 take out the cinnamon1 and put in four eggs2 beat all well together1 and bake half an hour1 or boil rather more than an hour4 ,custard ,pudding4 ,boil a pint of milk1 and a quarter of a pint of good cream2 thicken with flour and water made perfectly smooth1 till it is stiff enough to bear an egg on it2 break in the yelks of five eggs2 sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar2 grate in a little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon3 add half a glass of good brandy2 then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite stiff1 and mix gently all together3 line a pie-dish with good puff paste1 and bake half an hour4 ,n4,b4 ,ground rice1 potato flour1 panada1 and all puddings made from powders1 are1 or may be1 prepared in the same way4 ,boiled ,custards4 ,put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan1 with the peel of a lemon cut very thin1 a little grated nutmeg1 a bay or laurel-leaf1 and a small stick of cinnamon2 set it over a quick fire1 but be careful it does not boil over3 when it boils1 set it beside the fire1 and simmer ten minutes2 break the yelks of eight1 and the whites of four eggs into a basin2 beat them well2 then pour in the milk a little at a time1 stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the eggs curdling2 set it on the fire again1 and stir it well with a wooden spoon2 let it have just one boil2 pass it through a tamis1 or fine sieve3 when cold1 add a little brandy1 or white wine1 as may be most agreeable to the eater's palate4 ,serve up in glasses1 or cups4 ,custards for baking are prepared as above1 passed through a fine sieve2 put them into cups2 grate a little nutmeg over each3 bake them about #ae or #bj minutes4 ,,to ,,dress ,,spring ,,fruit4 ,spring ,fruit ,soup4 ,peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb2 blanch it in water three or four minutes2 drain it on a sieve1 and put it into a stew-pan1 with two onions sliced1 a carrot1 an ounce of lean ham1 and a good bit of butter2 let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender2 then put in two quarts of good consomm1 to which add two or three ounces of bread-crumbs2 boil about fifteen minutes2 skim off all the fat2 season with salt and ,cayenne pepper2 pass it through a tamis1 and serve up with fried bread4 ,spring ,fruit ,pudding4 ,clean as above three or four dozen sticks of rhubarb2 put it in a stew-pan1 with the peel of a lemon1 a bit of cinnamon1 two cloves1 and as much moist sugar as will sweeten it2 set it over a fire1 and reduce it to a marmalade2 pass it through a hair-sieve2 then add the peel of a lemon1 and half a nutmeg grated1 a quarter of a pound of good butter1 and the yelks of four eggs and one white1 and mix all well together2 line a pie-dish1 that will just contain it1 with good puff paste2 put the mixture in1 and bake it half an hour4 ,spring ,fruit--,a ,mock ,gooseberry ,sauce for ,mackerel1 c4 ,make a marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb1 sweetened with moist sugar2 pass it through a hair-sieve1 and serve up in a sauce-boat4 ,spring ,fruit ,tart4 ,prepare rhubarb as above3 cut it into small pieces into a tart-dish2 sweeten with loaf-sugar pounded2 cover it with a good short crust paste2 sift a little sugar over the top1 and bake half an hour in a rather hot oven3 serve up cold4 ,spring ,cream1 or mock ,gooseberry ,fool4 ,prepare a marmalade as directed for the pudding3 to which add a pint of good thick cream2 serve up in glasses1 or in a deep dish4 ,if wanted in a shape1 dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little water2 strain it through a tamis1 and when nearly cold put it to the cream2 pour it into a jelly mould1 and when set1 turn out into a dish1 and serve up plain4 ,spring ,fruit ,sherbet4 ,boil six or eight sticks of rhubarb 7quite clean7 ten minutes in a quart of water2 strain the liquor through a tamis into a jug1 with the peel of a lemon cut very thin1 and two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar2 let it stand five or six hours1 and it is fit to drink4 ,gourds 7now called vegetable ,marrow7 stewed4 ,take off all the skin of six or eight gourds1 put them into a stew-pan1 with water1 salt1 lemon-juice1 and a bit of butter1 or fat bacon1 and let them stew gently till quite tender1 and serve up with a rich ,dutch sauce1 or any other sauce you please that is piquante4 ,gourd ,soup1 ,should be made of full-grown gourds1 but not those that have hard skins2 slice three or four1 and put them in a stew-pan1 with two or three onions1 and a good bit of butter2 set them over a slow fire till quite tender 7be careful not to let them burn72 then add two ounces of crust of bread1 and two quarts of good consomm2 season with salt and ,cayenne pepper3 boil ten minutes1 or a quarter of an hour2 skim off all the fat1 and pass it through a tamis2 then make it quite hot1 and serve up with fried bread4 ,fried ,gourds4 ,cut five or six gourds in quarters2 take off the skin and pulp2 stew them in the same manner as for table3 when done1 drain them quite dry2 beat up an egg1 and dip the gourds in it1 and cover them well over with bread-crumbs2 make some hog's-lard hot1 and fry them a nice light colour2 throw a little salt and pepper over them1 and serve up quite dry4 ,another ,way4 ,take six or eight small gourds1 as near of a size as possible2 slice them with a cucumber-slice2 dry them in a cloth1 and then fry them in very hot lard2 throw over a little pepper and salt1 and serve up on a napkin4 ,great attention is requisite to do these well2 if the fat is quite hot they are done in a minute1 and will soon spoil2 if not hot enough1 they will eat greasy and tough4 ,to make ,beef1 ,mutton1 or ,veal ,tea4--7,no4 #efc47 ,cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin slices2 put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water2 set it over a very gentle fire1 where it will become gradually warm2 when the scum rises1 let it continue simmering gently for about an hour2 then strain it through a fine sieve or a napkin2 let it stand ten minutes to settle1 and then pour off the clear tea4 ,n4,b4 ,an onion1 and a few grains of black pepper1 are sometimes added4 ,if the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender1 you may mince it and pound it as directed in ,no4 #ejc1 and make potted beef4 ,to make half a pint of beef tea in five minutes for three halfpence1 see ,no4 #beb4 ,mutton ,broth for the ,sick4--7,no4 #efd47 ,have a pound and a half of a neck or loin of mutton2 take off the skin and the fat1 and put it into a saucepan2 cover it with cold water1 7it will take about a quart to a pound of meat17 let it simmer very gently1 and skim it well2 cover it up1 and set it over a moderate fire1 where it may stand gently stewing for about an hour2 then strain it off4 ,it should be allowed to become cold1 when all the greasy particles will float on the surface1 and becoming hard1 can be easily taken off1 and the settlings will remain at the bottom4 ,see also ,nos4 #dij and #beb4 ,n4,b4 ,we direct the meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to be eaten2 so a sick man may have plenty of good broth for nothing2 as by this manner of producing it1 the meat furnishes also a good family meal4 ,obs4--,this is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons1 and the only mutton broth that should be given to convalescents1 whose constitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easy digestion4 ,the common way of making it with roots1 onions1 sweet herbs1 c4 c4 is too strong for weak stomachs4 ,plain broth will agree with a delicate stomach1 when the least addition of other ingredients would immediately offend it4 ,for the various ways of flavouring broth1 see ,no4 #ebg4 ,few know how much good may be done by such broth1 taken in sufficient quantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers2 half a pint taken at a time4 ,see the last two pages of the #gth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery4 ,barley ,water4#cej-99--7,no4 #efe47 ,take a couple of ounces of pearl barley1 wash it clean with cold water1 put it into half a pint of boiling water1 and let it boil for five minutes2 pour off this water1 and add to it two quarts of boiling water3 boil it to two pints1 and strain it4 ,the above is simple barley water4 ,to a quart of this is frequently added ,two ounces of figs1 sliced2 ,the same of raisins1 stoned2 ,half an ounce of liquorice1 sliced and bruised2 ,and a pint of water4 ,boil it till it is reduced to a quart1 and strain4 ,obs4--,these drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent fevers and inflammatory disorders1 for which plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the principal remedies3 and if not suggested by the medical attendant1 is frequently demanded by honest instinct1 in terms too plain to be misunderstood3 the stomach sympathizes with every fibre of the human frame1 and no part of it can be distressed without in some degree offending the stomach3 therefore it is of the utmost importance to sooth this grand organ1 by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant and agreeable as the nature of the case will admit of3 the barley drink prepared according to the second receipt1 will be received with pleasure by the most delicate palate4 ,whey4--7,no4 #eff47 ,make a pint of milk boil2 put to it a glass or two of white wine2 put it on the fire till it just boils again2 then set it on one side till the curd has settled2 pour off the clear whey1 and sweeten it as you like4 ,cider is often substituted for wine1 or half the quantity of vinegar that we have ordered wine4 ,obs4--,when there is no fire in the sick room1 this may be put hot into a bottle1 and laid between the bed and mattress2 it will keep warm several hours4 ,toothache and anti-rheumatic ,embrocation4--7,no4 #efg47 ,in no branch of the practice of physic is there more dangerous quackery1 than in the dental department4 ,to all people the toothache is an intolerable torment2 not even a philosopher can endure it patiently2 what an overcoming agony then must it be to a grand gourmand6 besides the mortification of being deprived of the means of enjoying that consolation which he looks to as the grand solace for all sublunary cares4 ,when this affliction befalls him1 we recommend the following specific for it2-- ,rx ,sal volatile1 three parts4 ,laudanum1 one part4 ,mix1 and rub the part affected frequently1 or if the tooth which aches be hollow1 drop some of this on a bit of cotton1 and put it into the tooth4 ,for a general faceache1 or sore throat1 moisten a bit of flannel with it1 and put it at night to the part affected4 ,stomachic ,tincture--7,no4 #efi47--;is ,peruvian bark1 bruised1 one ounce and a half4 ,orange-peel1 do4 one ounce4 ,brandy1 or proof spirit1 one pint4 ,let these ingredients steep for ten days1 shaking the bottle every day2 let it remain quiet two days1 and then decant the clear liquor4 ,dose--a tea-spoonful in a wineglass of water1 twice a day1 when you feel languid1 i4 e4 when the stomach is empty1 about an hour before dinner1 and in the evening4 ,this agreeable aromatic tonic is an effective help to concoction2 and we are under personal obligations to it1 for frequently restoring our stomach to good temper1 and procuring us good appetite and good digestion4 ,in low nervous affections arising from a languid circulation1 and when the stomach is in a state of debility from age1 intemperance1 or other causes1 this is a most acceptable restorative4 ,n4,b4 ,tea made with dried and bruised ,seville orange-peel1 in the same way as common tea1 and drank with milk and sugar1 has been taken by nervous and dyspeptic persons with great benefit4 ,sucking a bit of dried orange-peel about an hour before dinner1 when the stomach is empty1 is very grateful and strengthening to it4 ,paregoric ,elixir4--7,no4 #egj47 ,a drachm of purified opium1 same of flowers of benjamin1 same of oil of aniseed1 camphor1 two scruples2 steep all in a pint of brandy or proof spirit2 let it stand ten days1 occasionally shaking it up3 strain4 ,a tea-spoonful in half a pint of ,white wine whey 7,no4 #efb71 tewahdiddle 7,no4 #dfg71 or gruel 7,no4 #egb71 taken the last thing at night1 is an agreeable and effectual medicine for coughs and colds4 ,it is also excellent for children who have the hooping-cough1 in doses of from five to twenty drops in a little water1 or on a little bit of sugar4 ,dr4 ,kitchiner's ,receipt to make ,gruel4--7,no4 #egb47 ,ask those who are to eat it1 if they like it thick or thin2 if the latter1 mix well together by degrees1 in a pint basin1 one table-spoonful of oatmeal1 with three of cold water2 if the former1 use two spoonfuls4 ,have ready in a stew-pan1 a pint of boiling water or milk2 pour this by degrees to the oatmeal you have mixed2 return it into the stew-pan2 set it on the fire1 and let it boil for five minutes2 stirring it all the time to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the stew-pan2 skim and strain it through a hair-sieve4 #b;d4 ,to convert this into caudle1 add a little ale1 wine1 or brandy1 with sugar2 and if the bowels are disordered1 a little nutmeg or ginger1 grated4 ,obs4 ,gruel may be made with broth 7,no4 #dij1 or ,no4 #beb1 or ,no4 #efd71 instead of water2 7to make crowdie1 see ,no4 #bje9972 and may be flavoured with sweet herbs1 soup roots1 and savoury spices1 by boiling them for a few minutes in the water you are going to make the gruel with2 or zest 7,no4 #bee71 pease powder 7,no4 #deh71 or dried mint1 mushroom catchup 7,no4 #dji72 or a few grains of curry powder 7,no4 #dee72 or savoury ragot powder 7,no4 #deg72 or ,cayenne 7,no4 #djd72 or celery-seed bruised1 or soup herb powder 7,no4 #dei72 or an onion minced very fine and bruised in with the oatmeal2 or a little eschalot wine 7,no4 #djb72 or essence of celery 7,nos4 #dji1 #dac1 #dag1 or ,no4 #dbj71 c4 ,plain gruel1 such as is directed in the first part of this receipt1 is one of the best breakfasts and suppers that we can recommend to the rational epicure2 is the most comforting soother of an irritable stomach that we know2 and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day's work of intemperate feasting3 when the addition of half an ounce of butter1 and a tea-spoonful of ,epsom salt1 will give it an aperient quality1 which will assist the principal viscera to get rid of their burden4 ,water gruel1 says ,tryon in his ,obs4 on ,health1 #afmo4 #afhh1 p4 #db1 is the king of spoon meats1 and the queen of soups1 and gratifies nature beyond all others4 ,in the ,art of ,thriving1 #afig1 p4 #h1 are directions for preparing fourscore noble and wholesome dishes1 upon most of which a man may live excellently well for two-pence a day2 the author's ,obs4 on water gruel is1 that essence of oatmeal makes a noble and exhilarating meal6 ,dr4 ,franklin's favourite breakfast was a good basin of warm gruel1 in which there was a small slice of butter1 with toasted bread and nutmeg2 the expense of this he reckoned at three halfpence4 ,scotch ,burgoo4--7,no4 #egb9947 ,this humble dish of our northern brethren forms no contemptible article of food4 ,it possesses the grand qualities of salubrity1 pleasantness1 and cheapness4 ,it is1 in fact1 a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding without milk2 much used by those patterns of combined industry1 frugality1 and temperance1 the ,scottish peasantry2 and this1 among other examples of the economical ,scotch1 is well worthy of being occasionally adopted by all who have large families and small incomes4 ,it is made in the following easy and expeditious manner3-- ,to a quart of oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water1 so that the whole may smoothly mix3 then stirring it continually over the fire1 boil it together for a quarter of an hour2 after which1 take it up1 and stir in a little salt and butter1 with or without pepper4 ,this quantity will serve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal4--,oddy's ,family ,receipt ,book1 p4 #bjd4 ,anchovy ,toast4--7,no4 #egc47 ,bone and wash the anchovies1 pound them in a mortar with a little fresh butter2 rub them through a sieve1 and spread them on a toast1 see ,nos4 #dcd and #dce1 and ,no4 #cee4 ,obs4 ,you may add1 while pounding the anchovies1 a little made mustard and curry powder 7,no4 #dee7 or a few grains of ,cayenne1 or a little mace or other spice4 ,it may be made still more savoury1 by frying the toast in clarified butter4 ,deviled ,biscuit1--7,no4 #egd47 ,is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in a ,dutch oven1 with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury spice 7,no4 #deg71 zest 7,no4 #bee71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 or ,cayenne pepper sprinkled over it4 ,obs4 ,this ne plus ultra of high spiced relishes1 and ,no4 #ech1 frequently make their appearance at tavern dinners1 when the votaries of ,bacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to the jolly god4 ,,footnotes3 #cjj-99 ,this may be still longer preserved by the process directed in ,no4 #beb4 #cjc-99 ,hashes and meats dressed a second time1 should only simmer gently till just warm through2 it is supposed they have been done very nearly1 if not quite enough1 already2 select those parts of the joint that have been least done4 ,in making a hash from a leg of mutton1 do not destroy the marrow-bone to help the gravy of your hash1 to which it will make no perceptible addition2 but saw it in two1 twist writing-paper round the ends1 and send it up on a plate as a side dish1 garnished with sprigs of parsley3 if it is a roast leg1 preserve the end bone1 and send it up between the marrow-bones4 ,this is a very pretty luncheon1 or supper dish4 #cjc- ,see ,the ,court and ,kitchen of ,,elizabeth1 commonly called ,joan ,cromwell1 #afmo4 ,london1 #affd1 page #ajf4 #cjd-99 ,the bain-marie1 or water-bath 7see note to ,no4 #ebi9971 is the best utensil to warm up made dishes1 and things that have been already sufficiently dressed1 as it neither consumes the sauce1 nor hardens the meat4 ,if you have not a water-bath a ,dutch oven will sometimes supply the place of it4 ,bain-marie is a flat vessel containing boiling water2 you put all your stew-pans into the water1 and keep that water always very hot1 but it must not boil3 the effect of this bain-marie is to keep every thing warm without altering either the quantity or the quality1 particularly the quality4 ,when ,i had the honour of serving a nobleman1 who kept a very extensive hunting establishment1 and the hour of dinner was consequently uncertain1 ,i was in the habit of using bain-marie1 as a certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes4 ,if you keep your sauce1 or broth1 or soup1 by the fireside1 the soup reduces1 and becomes too strong1 and the sauce thickens as well as reduces4 ,this is the best way of warming turtle1 or mock turtle soup1 as the thick part is always at the bottom1 and this method prevents it from burning1 and keeps it always good4--,,ude',s ,cookery1 page #ah4 #cjf-99 ,probably a contraction of haut ragot4 #cjh-99 ,the proverb says1 ,of all the fowls of the air1 commend me to the shin of beef2 for there's marrow for the master1 meat for the mistress1 gristles for the servants1 and bones for the dogs4 #cji-99 ,the remotest parts of the world were visited1 and earth1 air1 and ocean ransacked1 to furnish the complicated delicacies of a ,roman supper4 ,suidas tells us1 that ,pityllus1 who had a hot tongue and a cold stomach1 in order to gratify the latter without offending the former1 made a sheath for his tongue1 so that he could swallow his pottage scalding hot2 yea1 ,i myself have known a ,shropshire gentleman of the like quality66--,see ,dr4 ,,moffat on ,food1 #dto4 #afee4 ,in the refined extravagance of the tables of the great1 where the culinary arts are pushed to excess1 luxury becomes false to itself1 and things are valued1 not as they are nutritious1 or agreeable to the appetite1 but in proportion as they are rare1 out of season1 or costly4--,,cadogan on ,gout1 #hvo4 #agga1 p4 #dh4 #cji- ,cookery is an art1 appreciated by only a very few individuals1 and which requires1 in addition to a most studious and diligent application1 no small share of intellect1 and the strictest sobriety and punctuality4--,preface to ,,ude',s ,cookery1 p4 #f4 #caj-99 ,this suet is not to be wasted3 when it comes from the oven1 take out the beef1 and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve2 let it stand till it is cold2 then clarify the fat as directed in ,no4 #hc1 and it will do for frying1 c4 #cab-99 ,if you have no broth1 put in half a pint of water1 thicken it as in the above receipt1 and just before you give it the last boil up1 add to it a large spoonful of mushroom catchup1 and1 if you like1 the same quantity of port wine4 #cac-99 ,it must be allowed to muse gently for several hours1 inaccessible to the ambient air1 and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in the furnace or stove4 ,after having lulled itself in its own exudations1 and the dissolution of its auxiliaries1 it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation4--,tabella ,cibaria1 p4 #dg4 #cac- ',c'est la soupe1' says one of the best of proverbs1 'qui fait le soldat4' ',it is the soup that makes the soldier4' ,excellent as our troops are in the field1 there cannot be a more unquestionable fact1 than their immense inferiority to the ,french in the business of cookery4 ,the ,english soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on the coals1 by which means the one and the better half is lost1 and the other burned to a cinder4 ,whereas1 six ,french troopers fling their messes into the same pot1 and extract a delicious soup1 ten times more nutritious than the simple rti could ever be4--,,blackwood',s ,edinburgh ,magazine1 vol4 vii4 p4 #ffh4 #cad-99 ,the less gravy or butter1 and the more beating1 the better will be your potted beef1 if you wish it to keep3 if for immediate eating1 you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter1 as the meat will pound easier and look and taste more mellow4 #cah-99 ,see receipt to hash mutton1 ,nos4 #cfj and #cfa1 and ,no4 #dhd4 #cbj-99 ,some cooks make the gravy1 c4 in the following manner3--,slice a large onion2 fry it brown2 drain all fat from it1 and put it into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs1 a couple of dozen berries of allspice1 same of black pepper1 three blades of mace1 and a pint and a half of water2 cover down close1 and boil gently1 for half an hour2 then strain it through a sieve over the veal1 and let it simmer gently for about three hours3 about half an hour before it is done1 mix two table-spoonfuls of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water2 mix some of the gravy with it1 and then put it into the stew-pan4 ,n4,b4 ,three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added when the veal is put in4 #cbc-99 ,vulgo1 salary4 #cbd-99 ,supposed sorrel4 #cbd- ,this is by ,dr4 ,,bentley thought to be time1 or thyme4 #cbd- ,parsley4 ,vide ,,chamberlayne4 #cbd- ,of this composition1 see the works of the copper-farthing dean4 #cbd- ,which we suppose to be near four hours4 #cbe-99 ,to boil bacon1 see ,no4 #ac4 #cbe- ,meat dressed by the heat of boiling water1 without being immediately exposed to it1 is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally employed3 it becomes delicately tender1 without being over-done1 and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved4 ,this1 in chemical technicals1 is called balneum maris1 a water-bath2 in culinary1 bain-marie2 which ,a4 ,,chapelle1 in his ,modern ,cook1 #hvo4 page #be1 ,london1 #agdd1 translates ,mary's bath4 ,see note to ,no4 #dhe4 ,,mary ,,smith1 in her ,complete ,housekeeper1 #aggb1 #hvo4 pages #aje and #bdg1 translates ,sauce ,robert1 ,,roe-,,boat-,,sauce2 an omelette1 a ,,hamlet2 and gives you a receipt how to make ,soupe la ,,rain6 #cca-99 ,rotten cheese toasted is the ne plus ultra of haut got1 and only eatable by the thorough-bred gourmand in the most inverted state of his jaded appetite4 #cca- ,the nursery name for bread toasted on one side only4 #ccg-99 ,straining the water is an indispensable precaution1 unless you use spring-water4 #cch-99 ,a couple of poached eggs1 with a few fine1 dry1 fried collops of pure bacon1 are not bad for breakfast1 or to begin a meal1 says ,sir ,,kenelm ,,digby1 ,m4,d4 in his ,closet of ,cookery1 ,london1 #affi1 page #afg4 #cch- ,the lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table1 is to boil them only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater part of the white1 without depriving the yelk of its fluidity4--,dr4 ,,pearson',s ,mat4 ,alim4 #hvo4 #ahjh1 p4 #cf4 #cci-99 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,making ,,tea4 #a4 ,the ,japanese reduce their tea to a fine powder by pounding it2 they put certain portions of this into a tea-cup1 pour boiling water upon it1 stir it up1 and drink it as soon as it is cool enough4 #b4 ,,dubuisson',s ,,manner ,,of ,,making ,,tea4 ,put the tea into a kettle with cold water2 cover it close1 set it on the fire1 and make it all but boil2 when you see a sort of white scum on the surface1 take it from the fire2 when the leaves sink it is ready4 #c4 ,the night before you wish to have tea ready for drinking1 pour on it as much cold water as you wish to make tea2 next morning pour off the clear liquor1 and when you wish to drink it1 make it warm4 ,the above are from ,l',art du ,limonadier de ,,dubuisson1 ,paris1 p4 #bfg1 #bfh4 ,or1 #d4 ,a great saving may be made by making a tincture of tea1 thus3 pour boiling water upon it1 and let it stand twenty minutes1 putting into each cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full3 fill each cup up with hot water from an urn or kettle2 thus the tea will be always hot and equally strong to the end1 and one tea-spoonful will be found enough for three cups for each person3 according to the present mode of making it1 three times the quantity is often used4--,see ,dr4 ,,trusler',s ,way to be ,rich and ,respectable1 #hvo4 #agif1 page #bg4 ,tea should only be made as an infusion1--that is1 pouring boiling hot water upon it1 and letting it stand a few minutes to draw4 ,a4 #cdj-99 ,see ,dr4 ,houghton on ,coffee1 in vol4 xxi4 of the ,phil4 ,trans4 page #caa4 ,the best of coffee is imported into this country1 and can be had cheap and good4 ,a4 #cdc-99 ,to increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding1 the economical housekeeper1 who has a large family to feed1 may now add two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed4 ,to many this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone4 ,see also ,no4 #ajg4 #cej-99 ,ground barley1 or barley-meal1 is sold in this city2 with which barley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made1 for the sick1 or for soups4 ,a4 ,,marketing ,,tables1 ,showing the seasons when ,,meat1 ,,poultry1 and ,,vegetables1 are ,,best and ,,cheapest4 ,,meat4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ ,weight ,weight of ,meat of ,bone before after ,,beef4 it was being dressed4 dressed4 ,,the ,,hind ,,quarter4 ---------------------- lb4 oz4lb4 oz4 per lb4 #ac #j #a #h #a4 ,sirloin #j #i ,roasted 7,no4 #ai74 #bj #j #d #j #b4 ,rump #j #i ,steak to ,broil 7,no4 #id71 to ,stew 7,nos4 #ejj and #eja74 #aa #j #a #d #c4 ,edge-,bone #j #f ,boiled 7,no4 #h74 #ac #ab #a #h #d4 ,buttock1 or #j #g ,ditto 7,no4 #g71 or ,round ,savoury ,salted ,beef 7,no4 #dif74 #e4 ,mouse ditto #j #f ,for ,alamode ,beef 7,no4 #ejb74 #f4 ,veiny ,piece #j #g ,generally ,baked or ,salted4 #aa #j #a #h #g4 ,thick ,flank #j #f ,salted4 #h4 ,thin ditto #j #f-a_/b ,ditto4 #i4 ,leg #j #b-a_/b,soup of 7,no4 #aic71 ,stewed 7,no4 #dic7 ,,the ,,fore ,,quarter4 per lb4 #ad #d #a #ab #aj4 ,fore ,ribs1 #j #i ,roasted 7,no4 #bj71 #f ,ribs ,boned and ,rolled 7,no4 #ba74 #aa4 ,middle do41 #j #g ,ditto4 #c do4 #ab4 ,chuck do41 #j #e ,for making ,gravy4 #c do4 #ac4 ,shoulder1 or#j #f ,for ,steaks or ,soup4 ,leg of ,mutton ,piece ,for ,stewing 7,no4 #ad4 ,brisket #j #f #did71 or ,haricot 7,no4 #die71--or ,salted4 #ae4 ,clod #j #d-a_/b,principally used for ,beef ,sausages4 #h #d #j #aj #af4 ,neck1 or #j #c-a_/b;,ditto1 or making ,sticking ,soup4 ,piece ,excellent ,scotch #i #j #b #d #ag4 ,shin #j #b-a_/b ,barley ,broth 7,no4 #bjd71 and ,stewed 7,no4 #dic74 #ah4 ,the ,head ,soup of 7,no4 #bci71 ,stewed1 7,no4 #ejg72 and ,the ,tail ,do4 7,no4 #bdj71 do4 7,no4 #ejh47 ,the ,heels ,boiled 7,no4 #ah9971 ,jelly of 7,no4 #aih71 ,soup 7,no4 #bdj9974 ,,mutton4 lb4 oz4lb4 oz4 per lb4 #h #j #j #ac #a4 ,leg ,boiled 7,no4 #a71 or #b4 ,loin1 best ,roasted 7,no4 #bd74 end #j #h ,do4 7,no4 #a17 #c4 ,do41 chump ,roasted 7,no4 #bh71 end ,chops4 ,do4 7,no4 #b47 #f #j #j #h #d4 ,neck1 best #j #g ,roasted 7,no4 #bi71 end ,irish ,stew 7,no4 #dhh71 ,haricot 7,no4 #dhi71 ,stewed 7,no4 #dij74 #e4 ,do41 scrag ,to make ,broth 7,no4 end #j #e #aid74 #h #d #a #j #f4 ,shoulder #j #g ,roasted 7,no4 #bg74 #g4 ,breast #j #e ,grilled 7,obs4 to ,no4 #ch74 ,head ,broth4 ,the ,chine1 or the ,saddle1 two ,loins1 ,roasted 7,no4 #ca71 ,the ,haunch #j #h ,venisonified 7,no4 is a ,leg1 #cb74 and part of the ,loin ,,veal4 per lb4 #a4 ,loin1 best #j #aa ,roasted 7,no4 #ce74 end #b4 ,do41 chump #j #aa ,do4 do4 end ,roasted 7,no4 #cd71 to #c4 ,fillet #a #a make ,veal ,olives 7,no4 #eah71 ,scotch ,collops 7,no4 #eag9974 #d4 ,knuckle1 #j #g ,to ,ragot 7,no4 ,hind #ebb71 to ,stew 7,no4 ,the whole #j #aj-a_/b #ebc71 ,soup of ,leg 7,no4 #aic74 #i #j #a #j #e4 ,neck1 best #j #aa ,roasted 7,no4 #cg74 end #e #j #j #aj #f4 ,do41 scrag #j #h ,do4 do4 end ,the whole #j #i-a_/b ,neck #g4 ,blade ,bone #j #aj ,roasted4 ,stewed 7,no4 #eae72 to #h4 ,breast1 best#j #aa ,ragot 7,no4 #eag71 end to ,curry 7,no4 #dig74 #i4 ,do41 brisket#j #aj ,stewed 7,no4 #eae72 to end ,ragot 7,no4 #eag74 #aj4 ,knuckle1 #j #g ,same as ,hind ,fore ,knuckle4 ,the head1 ,boiled1 plain 7,no4 with the skin #aj71 to ,hash 7,nos4 on #aj and #ebj74 ,do41 skinned ,cutlets ,fried 7,no4 #ij71 ,broiled 7,no4 #eba74 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ ,the ,nos4 refer to the receipts for dressing4 ,in the foregoing table1 we have given the proportions of bone to meat1--the former not being weighed till cooked1 by which1 of course1 its weight was considerably diminished4 ,these proportions differ in almost every animal1--and from the different manner in which they are cut4 ,those who pay the highest1 do not always pay the dearest price4 ,in fact1 the best meat is the cheapest2 and those who treat a tradesman liberally1 have a much better chance of being well served1 than those who are for ever bargaining for the market penny4 ,in dividing the joints1 there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones1 fat1 flaps1 c41 so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound in most pieces2 and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he purchases3--have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain8--have they not invited such conduct8 ,the quality of butcher's meat1 varies quite as much as the price of it1 according to its age1 how it has been fed1 and especially how it has been treated the week before it has been killed4 ,the following statements were sent to us by a very respectable tradesman3-- ,beef is best and cheapest from ,michaelmas to ,midsummer4 ,the price1 per pound1 now varies from #d;d4 to #as4 ,veal is best from ,march to ,july4 ,the price varies according to the season and the supply2 and the quality differs so much1 that the same joints now sell from #e;d4 to #aa;d4 per pound4 ,mutton is best from ,christmas to ,midsummer2 the difference in price between the worst and the best1 is now from #e;d4 to #i;d4 per pound4 ,grass lamb is best from ,easter to ,june2 house lamb from ,christmas to ,june4 ,,poultry4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,poultry4 ,come into ,continue4 ,cheapest4 ,season4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,spring chickens ,to be had all the ,chickens ,april year ,november4 ,poulards1 with ,march ,till ,june ,december4 eggs ,dearest in ,april1,to be had all the ,fowls ,may1 and ,june year ,november4 ,capons ,largest at ,ditto ,october and ,christmas ,november4 ,green ,geese ,march ,till ,september do4 ,geese ,september ---- ,february do4 ,turkey poults ,april ---- ,june do4 ,turkeys ,september ---- ,march do4 ,ducklings ,march ---- ,may do4 ,ducks ,june ---- ,february do4 ,december2 ,wild ducks ,september ,till ditto but the flights are uncertain4 ,widgeons ,teal ,plovers ,larks ,november ,till ,march ,ditto4 ,wheatears ,july ,and during ,august ,wild pigeons ,march ,till ,september ,august4 ,tame do4 ,tame rabbits ,all the year ,wild do4 ,june ,till ,february ,november4 ,sucking pigs ,all the year ,leverets ,march ,till ,september ,hares ,september ,partridges ,do4 ,pheasants ,october ,grouse ,august ,moor game ,till ,march ,woodcock snipes ,november ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,cocks' combs1 fat livers1 eggs1 c4 are dearest in ,april and ,may1 and cheapest in ,august4 ,fowls' heads may be had three for a penny2 a dozen will make a very good pie or soup1 like ,no4 #bdd4 ,turkey heads1 about a penny each4 ,duck giblets1 about three half-pence a set2 four sets will make a tureen of good soup for sixpence4 ,see ,no4 #bdd4 ,obs4--,poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty4 ,the price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it1 and the supply at market1 and the demand for it4 ,it is generally dearest from ,march to ,july1 when the town is fullest2 and cheapest about ,september1 when the game season commences1 and the weather being colder1 allows of its being brought from more distant parts1 and the town becoming thin1 there is less demand for it4 ,the above information will1 we trust1 be very acceptable to economical families1 who1 from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs1 are deterred from ever inquiring about it4 ,in the cheap seasons1 we have noted1 it is sometimes as cheap as butcher's meat4 ,,vegetables4 ,the public are frequently1 from want of regular information when the proper seasons arrive for vegetables1 put to much inconvenience in attending the markets1 taking unnecessary inquiries1 c4 ,the following list1 it is presumed1 will afford much useful information to the reader3-- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,names of ,vegetables4 ,earliest ,earliest ,when time for natural cheapest4 forced4 growth4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,artichokes 7,no4 #acf7 ,july on to ,october ,september4 ,ditto ,jerusalem ,from ,sept4 to ,june ,nov4 ,dec4 7,no4 #aag7 foll4 months4 ,angelica stalks1 ,middle of ,may1 and ,june4 for preserving whole of ,june ,asparagus 7,no4 #abc7 ,begin4 of ,mid4 of ,april1 ,may1,june and ,jan4 ,june1 and ,july ,july4 ,beans1 ,french1 or ,early in ,end of ,june1 or ,august4 ,kidneys ,feb4 beginning of ,july ,scarlet ditto ,july ,september4 ,windsor beans1 long ,june ,july ,aug4 pods and early kinds ,beet1 red 7,no4 #abg7 ,all the year ,dec4 ,jan4 ,ditto1 white1 the leaves ,july ,borcole1 or ,scotch ,november ,dec4 ,jan4 ,cale1 or ,kale4 ,broccoli 7,no4 #abf7 ,october ,feb4 ,mar4 ,cabbage 7,no4 #aah7 ,may and ,june ,july4 ,ditto1 red ,july and ,august ,august4 ,ditto1 white ,october ,october4 ,cardoons ,nov4 and three ,december4 following months ,carrots 7,no4 #abi7 ,may ,august4 ,cauliflowers 7,no4 #abe7 ,beginning of ,june ,july ,aug4 ,celery 7,no4 #bhi7 ,ditto ,september ,november4 ,chervil ,april ,june4 ,corn salad ,may ---- ,chervil 7,no4 #bfd7 ,march1 and through ,may4 the year ,cucumbers 7,no4 #ace7 ,march ,beginning of ,july ,aug4 ,sep4 ,endive ,june1 and through ,sep4 ,oct4 the year ,eschalots1 for keeping ,august1 and through ,sep4 two 7,no4 #djb7 the year fol4 months4 ,leeks ,september1 and six ,novem4 and months after ,december4 ,lettuce1 ,coss ,april ,june1 ,july1 ,ditto1 cabbage ---- and ,aug4 ,onions1 for keeping ,aug4 ,sep4 and ,october and following months ,november4 ,parsley 7,no4 #bfa7 ,feb4 and through ,february the year ,march4 ,parsnips 7,no4 #abh7 ,october1 and ,july4 continue until ,may ,pease 7,no4 #acd7 ,beg4 or ,june1 ,july1 and ,august1 and mid4 of following months fol4 month4 ,may ,potatoes 7,no4 #ajb1 c47 ,march ,may1 and through ,june1 the year ,may ,june4 ,radishes ,begin4 of ,end of ,march1 and ,june4 ,march following months ,ditto1 turnip1 red and ,ditto ,june4 white ,ditto1 black1 ,spanish ,august1 and ,september4 following months ,small salad 7,no4 #cgb7 ,all the year ,may ,june4 ,salsify ,july1 ,august ,august4 ,scorzonera ---- ---- ,sea ,kale 7,no4 #abd7 ,dec4 ,jan4,april and ,may ,may4 ,savoury cabbage ,september1 and ,november4 following months ,sorrel ,all the year ,june ,july4 ,spinage1 spring ,march1 ,april1 and ,june ,july4 following months ,ditto1 winter ,oct4 ,nov4 and ,november4 following months ,turnips ,may1 ,june1 and ,june ,july4 following months ,ditto1 tops 7,no4 #acb7 ,march1 ,april1 and ,april and ,may ,may4 ,ditto1 for salad ,april and ,may ,june and ,ditto1 ,welch ,february ,july4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,,appendix2 ,,comprising ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,pastry1 ,,preserves1 ,,bread1 ,,puddings1 ,,pickles1 c4 c4 ,puff ,paste4--7,no4 #a47 ,to a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the hand half a pound of fresh butter2 mix up with half a pint of spring water2 knead it well1 and set it by for a quarter of an hour2 then roll it out thin1 lay on it1 in small pieces1 three quarters of a pound more of butter1 throw on it a little flour1 double it up in folds1 and roll it out thin three times1 and set it by for an hour in a cold place4 ,paste for ,meat or ,savoury ,pies4--7,no4 #b47 ,sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter1 break it into small pieces1 and wash it well in cold water2 rub gently together the butter and flour1 and mix it up with the yelk of three eggs1 beat together with a spoon2 and nearly a pint of spring-water2 roll it out1 and double it in folds three times1 and it is ready4 ,tart ,paste for ,family ,pies4--7,no4 #c47 ,rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarter of flour1 mix it with half a pint of water1 and knead it well4 ,sweet1 or short and crisped ,tart ,paste4--7,no4 #d47 ,to one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter1 the yelks of two eggs beat1 and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar2 mix up together with half a pint of new milk1 and knead it well4 ,see ,no4 #cj4 ,n4,b4 ,this crust is frequently iced4 ,raised ,pies4--7,no4 #e47 ,put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard2 and put on the fire1 in a saucepan1 three quarters of a pint of water1 and half a pound of good lard2 when the water boils1 make a hole in the middle of the flour1 pour in the water and lard by degrees1 gently mixing the flour with it with a spoon2 and when it is well mixed1 then knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff3 dredge a little flour to prevent its sticking to the board1 or you cannot make it look smooth3 do not roll it with the rolling-pin1 but roll it with your hands1 about the thickness of a quart pot2 cut it into six pieces1 leaving a little for the covers2 put one hand in the middle1 and keep the other close on the outside till you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape3 have your meat ready cut1 and seasoned with pepper and salt3 if pork1 cut in small slices2 the griskin is the best for pasties3 if you use mutton1 cut it in very neat cutlets1 and put them in the pies as you make them2 roll out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie1 wet it round the edge1 put it on the pie1 and press it together with your thumb and finger1 and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quite even1 and pinch them inside and out1 and bake them an hour and a half4 ,paste for boiled ,puddings4--7,no4 #f47 ,pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet1 add to it one pound and a quarter of flour1 and a little salt3 mix it with half a pint of milk or water1 and beat it well with the rolling-pin1 to incorporate the suet with the flour4 ,paste for stringing ,tartlets1 c4--7,no4 #g47 ,mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour1 an ounce of fresh butter1 and a little cold water2 rub it well between the board and your hand till it begins to string2 cut it into small pieces1 roll it out1 and draw it into fine strings1 lay them across your tartlets in any device you please1 and bake them immediately4 ,paste for ,croquants or ,cut ,pastry4--7,no4 #h47 ,to half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf sugar2 mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a good stiffness4 ,venison ,pasty4--7,no4 #i47 ,take a neck1 shoulder1 or breast of venison1 that has not hung too long2 bone them1 trim off all the skin1 and cut it into pieces two inches square1 and put them into a stew-pan1 with three gills of ,port wine1 two onions1 or a few eschalots sliced2 some pepper1 salt1 three blades of mace1 about a dozen allspice1 and enough veal broth to cover it2 put it over a slow fire1 and let it stew till three parts done2 put the trimmings into another saucepan1 cover it with water1 and set it on a fire4 ,take out the pieces you intend for the pasty1 and put them into a deep dish with a little of their liquor1 and set it by to cool2 then add the remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings1 and boil it till the pasty is ready2 then cover the pasty with paste made like ,no4 #e2 ornament the top1 and bake it for two hours in a slow oven2 and before it is sent to table1 pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was stewed in1 strained and skimmed free from fat2 some pepper1 salt1 half a gill of ,port1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a little flour and butter to thicken it4 ,mutton or ,veal ,pie4--7,no4 #aj47 ,cut into chops1 and trim neatly1 and cut away the greatest part of the fat of a loin1 or best end of a neck of mutton 7the former the best71 season them1 and lay them in a pie dish1 with a little water and half a gill of mushroom catchup 7chopped onion and potatoes1 if approved72 cover it with paste 7,no4 #b71 bake it two hours2 when done1 lift up the crust from the dish with a knife1 pour out all the gravy1 let it stand1 and skim it clean2 add1 if wanted1 some more seasoning2 make it boil1 and pour it into the pie4 ,veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast2 but must be parboiled first4 ,hare ,pie4--7,no4 #aa47 ,take the hare skinned and washed1 cut it into pieces1 and parboil it for two minutes to cleanse it2 wash it well1 and put it in a stew-pot with six eschalots chopped1 a gill of ,port wine1 a small quantity of thyme1 savoury1 sweet marjoram1 and parsley1 tied in a bunch1 four cloves1 and half a dozen allspice2 cover it with veal broth1 and stew it till half done2 pick out the prime pieces1 such as the back1 legs1 c4 7leaving the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted72 take the parts preserved1 and fill them into a dish with some water1 and cover it with paste as ,no4 #b2 bake it an hour2 strain the gravy from the trimmings1 thicken it a little1 and throw in half a gill of ,port1 the juice of half a lemon1 and pour it into the pie boiling hot2 line the bottom of the dish with ,hare stuffing 7,no4 #cgi71 or make it into forcemeat balls4 ,pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner2 and as the following receipt for ,pigeon pie4 ,savoury ,pies1 ,pasties1 and ,patties4--7,no4 #ab47 ,the piquance of pies may be regulated ad libitum1 by sprinkling the articles with zest 7,no4 #bee71 curry powder 7,no4 #dee1 and see ,nos4 #deg and #dei71 or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the forcemeats enumerated in ,nos4 #cgc to #che1 and making it into balls2 lay one ring of these1 and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves1 round the top of the pie2 and instead of putting in water1 put strong gravy4 ,after the pies are baked1 pour in through a funnel any of the various gravies1 sauces1 c43 truffles1 mushrooms1 wine1 spices1 pickles1 c4 are also added4 ,see also ,nos4 #cif to #djb4 ,,mem4 ,these are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than to satisfy it4 ,putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the very worst way of cooking it2 it is often baked to rags2 and very rarely indeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introduced to the stomach4 ,pigeon or ,lark ,pie4--7,no4 #ac47 ,truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing1 season them with pepper and salt2 lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about a pound weight1 cut into pieces and trimmed neatly1 seasoned1 and beat out with a chopper3 on it lay the pigeons1 the yelks of three eggs boiled hard1 and a gill of broth or water1 and over these a layer of steaks2 wet the edge of the dish1 and cover it over with puff paste 7,no4 #a71 or the paste as directed for seasoned pies 7,no4 #b72 wash it over with yelk of egg1 and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the pigeons2 bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven3 before it is sent to table make an aperture in the top1 and pour in some good gravy quite hot4 ,giblet ,pie4--7,no4 #ad47 ,clean well1 and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets3 cut the legs in two1 the wing and neck into three1 and the gizzard into four pieces2 preserve the liquor1 and set the giblets by till cold1 otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the pie with3 then season the whole with black pepper and salt1 and put them into a deep dish2 cover it with paste as directed in ,no4 #b1 rub it over with yelk of egg1 ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven3 in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in1 skim it free from fat1 put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan1 thicken it a little with flour and butter1 or flour and water1 season it with pepper and salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 add a few drops of browning1 strain it through a fine sieve1 and when you take the pie from the oven1 pour some of this into it through a funnel4 ,some lay in the bottom of the dish a moderately thick rump-steak3 if you have any cold game or poultry1 cut it in pieces1 and add it to the above4 ,rump-,steak ,pie4--7,no4 #ae47 ,cut three pounds of rump-steak 7that has been kept till tender7 into pieces half as big as your hand1 trim off all the skin1 sinews1 and every part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten1 and beat them with a chopper3 chop very fine half a dozen eschalots1 and add them to half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed2 strew some of the mixture at the bottom of the dish1 then a layer of steak1 then some more of the mixture1 and so on till the dish is full2 add half a gill of mushroom catchup1 and the same quantity of gravy1 or red wine2 cover it as in the preceding receipt1 and bake it two hours4 ,n4,b4 ,large oysters1 parboiled1 bearded1 and laid alternately with the steaks1 their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup and wine1 will be a variety4 ,chicken ,pie4--7,no4 #af47 ,parboil1 and then cut up neatly two young chickens2 dry them2 set them over a slow fire for a few minutes2 have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat 7,no4 #cgd or ,no4 #cge71 lay it at the bottom of the dish1 and place in the chickens upon it1 and with it some pieces of dressed ham2 cover it with paste 7,no4 #a74 ,bake it from an hour and a half to two hours2 when sent to table1 add some good gravy1 well seasoned1 and not too thick4 ,duck pie is made in like manner1 only substituting the duck stuffing 7,no4 #cgh71 instead of the veal4 ,n4,b4 ,the above may be put into a raised ,french crust 7see ,no4 #ah7 and baked2 when done1 take off the top1 and put a ragot of sweetbread to the chickens4 ,rabbit ,pie4--7,no4 #ag47 ,made in the same way2 but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of the dish1 by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the livers of the rabbits2 some pepper and salt1 some pounded mace1 some chopped parsley1 and an eschalot1 thoroughly beaten together2 and you may lay some thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your rabbits4 ,this pie will ask two hours baking1 says ,mrs4 ,mary ,tillinghast1 in page #bi of her #abmo4 vol4 of rare receipts1 #afgh4 ,raised ,french ,pie4--7,no4 #ah47 ,make about two pounds of flour into a paste1 as directed 7,no4 #e72 knead it well1 and into the shape of a ball2 press your thumb into the centre1 and work it by degrees into any shape 7oval or round is the most general71 till about five inches high2 put it on a sheet of paper1 and fill it with coarse flour or bran2 roll out a covering for it about the same thickness as the sides2 cement its sides with the yelk of egg2 cut the edges quite even1 and pinch it round with the finger and thumb1 yelk of egg it over with a paste-brush1 and ornament it in any way fancy may direct1 with the same kind of paste4 ,bake it of a fine brown colour1 in a slow oven2 and when done1 cut out the top1 remove the flour or bran1 brush it quite clean1 and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken1 rabbit1 or any other entre most convenient4 ,send it to table with a napkin under4 ,raised ,ham ,pie4--7,no4 #ai47 ,soak a small ham four or five hours2 wash and scrape it well2 cut off the knuckle1 and boil it for half an hour2 then take it up and trim it very neatly2 take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan1 with a pint of ,madeira or sherry1 and enough veal stock to cover it4 ,let it stew for two hours1 or till three parts done2 take it out and set it in a cold place2 then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt1 large enough to receive it2 put in the ham1 and round it the veal forcemeat2 cover and ornament2 it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a slow oven3 when done1 take off the cover1 glaze the top1 and pour round the following sauce1 viz4 take the liquor the ham was stewed in2 skim it free from fat2 thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together2 a few drops of browning1 and some ,cayenne pepper4 ,p4,s4 ,the above is1 ,i think1 a good way of dressing a small ham1 and has a good effect cold for a supper4 ,veal and ,ham ,pie4--7,no4 #bj47 ,take two pounds of veal cutlet1 cut them in middling-sized pieces1 season with pepper and a very little salt2 likewise one of raw or dressed ham cut in slices1 lay it alternately in the dish1 and put some forced or sausage meat 7,no4 #cgd1 or ,no4 #cge7 at the top1 with some stewed button mushrooms1 and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard1 and a gill of water2 then proceed as with rump-steak pie4 ,n4,b4 ,the best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie1 cut into chops1 and the chine bone taken away4 ,raised ,pork ,pie4--7,no4 #ba47 ,make a raised crust1 of a good size1 with paste 7as directed in ,no4 #e71 about four inches high2 take the rind and chine bone from a loin of pork1 cut it into chops1 beat them with a chopper1 season them with pepper and salt1 and fill your pie2 put on the top and close it1 and pinch it round the edge2 rub it over with yelk of egg1 and bake it two hours with a paper over it1 to prevent the crust from burning4 ,when done1 pour in some good gravy1 with a little ready-mixed mustard 7if approved74 ,n4,b4 ,as the above is generally eaten cold1 it is an excellent repast for a journey1 and will keep for several days4 ,eel ,pie4--7,no4 #bb47 ,take eels about half a pound each2 skin1 wash1 and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors1 cut them into pieces three inches long1 season them with pepper and salt1 and fill your dish1 leaving out the heads and tails4 ,add a gill of water or veal broth1 cover it with paste 7,no4 #b71 rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg1 ornament it with some of the same paste1 bake it an hour2 and when done1 make a hole in the centre1 and pour in the following sauce through a funnel3 the trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock1 seasoned with pepper and salt1 a table-spoonful of lemon-juice1 and thickened with flour and water1 strained through a fine sieve3 add it boiling hot4 ,raised ,lamb ,pies4--7,no4 #bc47 ,bone a loin of lamb1 cut into cutlets1 trim them very nicely1 and lay them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan1 with an ounce of butter1 a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice1 and some pepper and salt3 put them over a fire1 and turn them and put them to cool2 then raise four or five small pies with paste 7as ,no4 #f71 about the size of a tea-cup2 put some veal forcemeat at the bottom1 and the cutlets upon it2 roll out the top an eighth of an inch thick1 close and pinch the edges1 bake them half an hour1 and when done take off the top1 and pour in some good brown sauce4 ,beef-,steak ,pudding4--7,no4 #bd47 ,get rump-steaks1 not too thick1 beat them with a chopper1 cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand1 and trim off all the skin1 sinews1 c42 have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine1 likewise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick2 rub the inside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter1 sheet it with paste as directed for boiled puddings 7,no4 #g72 season the steaks with pepper1 salt1 and a little grated nutmeg2 put in a layer of steak1 then another of potatoes1 and so on till it is full1 occasionally throwing in part of the chopped onion2 add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup1 a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle1 and half a gill of water or veal broth2 roll out a top1 and close it well to prevent the water getting in2 rinse a clean cloth in hot water1 sprinkle a little flour over it1 and tie up the pudding2 have ready a large pot of water boiling1 put it in1 and boil it two hours and a half2 take it up1 remove the cloth1 turn it downwards in a deep dish1 and when wanted take away the basin or mould4 ,vol au ,vent4--7,no4 #be47 ,roll off tart paste 7,no4 #c7 till about the eighth of an inch thick3 then1 with a tin cutter made for that purpose 7about the size of the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table71 cut out the shape1 and lay it on a baking-plate1 with paper2 rub it over with yelk of egg2 roll out good puff paste 7,no4 #a7 an inch thick1 stamp it with the same cutter1 and lay it on the tart paste2 then take a cutter two sizes smaller1 and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste2 rub the top with yelk of egg1 and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes1 of a light brown colour3 when done1 take out the paste inside the centre mark1 preserving the top1 put it on a dish in a warm place1 and when wanted1 fill it with a white fricassee of chicken1 rabbit1 ragot of sweetbread1 or any other entre you wish4 ,oyster ,patties4--7,no4 #bf47 ,roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick1 cut it into squares with a knife1 sheet eight or ten patty pans1 put upon each a bit of bread the size of half a walnut2 roll out another layer of paste of the same thickness1 cut it as above1 wet the edge of the bottom paste1 and put on the top1 pare them round to the pan1 and notch them about a dozen times with the back of the knife1 rub them lightly with yelk of egg1 bake them in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour3 when done1 take a thin slice off the top1 then1 with a small knife or spoon1 take out the bread and the inside paste1 leaving the outside quite entire2 then parboil two dozen of large oysters1 strain them from their liquor1 wash1 beard1 and cut them into four1 put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled in flour1 half a gill of good cream1 a little grated lemon-peel1 the oyster liquor1 free from sediment1 reduced by boiling to one half1 some ,cayenne pepper1 salt1 and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice2 stir it over a fire five minutes1 and fill the patties4 ,lobster ,patties4--7,no4 #bg47 ,prepare the patties as in the last receipt4 ,take a hen lobster already boiled2 pick the meat from the tail and claws1 and chop it fine2 put it into a stew-pan1 with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth1 an ounce of fresh butter1 half a gill of cream1 and half a gill of veal consomm1 ,cayenne pepper1 and salt1 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy1 the same of lemon-juice1 and a table-spoonful of flour and water3 stew it five minutes4 ,veal and ,ham ,patties4--7,no4 #bh47 ,chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal1 and three ounces of ham very small2 put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled into flour1 half a gill of cream2 half a gill of veal stock2 a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel1 some ,cayenne pepper and salt1 a spoonful of essence of ham and lemon-juice1 and stir it over the fire some time1 taking care it does not burn4 ,chicken and ,ham ,patties4--7,no4 #bi47 ,use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls1 and proceed as in the last receipt4 ,ripe ,fruit ,tarts4--7,no4 #cj47 ,gooseberries1 damsons1 morrello cherries1 currants mixed with raspberries1 plums1 green gages1 white plums1 c4 should be quite fresh picked1 and washed3 lay them in the dish with the centre highest1 and about a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of fruit 7but if quite ripe they will not require so much72 add a little water2 rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg2 cover it with tart paste 7,no4 #d71 about half an inch thick2 press your thumb round the rim1 and close it well2 pare it round with a knife2 make a hole in the sides below the rim2 bake it in a moderate-heated oven2 and ten minutes before it is done1 take it out and ice it1 and return it to the oven to dry4 ,icing for ,fruit ,tarts1 ,puffs1 or ,pastry4--7,no4 #ca47 ,beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth2 lay some on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush2 sift over plenty of pounded sugar1 and press it down with the hand2 wash out the brush1 and splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved1 and put it in the oven for ten minutes1 and serve it up cold4 ,apple ,pie4--7,no4 #cb47 ,take eight russetings1 or lemon pippin apples2 pare1 core1 and cut not smaller than quarters2 place them as close as possible together into a pie-dish1 with four cloves2 rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel1 with four ounces of good moist sugar1 and1 if agreeable1 add some quince jam2 cover it with puff paste2 bake it an hour and a quarter4 7,generally eaten warm47 ,apple ,tart creamed4--7,no4 #cc47 ,use green codlings1 in preference to any other apple1 and proceed as in the last receipt4 ,when the pie is done1 cut out the whole of the centre1 leaving the edges2 when cold1 pour on the apple some rich boiled custard1 and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light colour4 ,tartlets1 such as are made at the ,pastry ,cooks4--7,no4 #cd47 ,roll out puff paste 7,no4 #a17 of a quarter of an inch thick1 cut it into pieces1 and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece1 pare them round with a knife1 and put a small quantity of apricot1 damson1 raspberry1 strawberry1 apple1 marmalade1 or any other kind of jam 7,no4 #ib71 in the centre2 take paste 7,no4 #g71 and string them crossways2 bake them from six to ten minutes in a quick oven3 they should be of a very light brown colour4 ,french ,tart of preserved ,fruit4--7,no4 #ce47 ,cover a flat dish1 or tourte pan1 with tart paste 7,no4 #d71 about an eighth of an inch thick2 roll out puff paste 7,no4 #a71 half an inch thick1 and cut it out in strips an inch wide2 wet the tart paste1 and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim2 fill the centre with jam or marmalade of any kind1 ornament it with small leaves of puff paste1 bake it half an hour1 and send it to table cold4 ,n4,b4 ,the above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on1 neatly strung with paste1 as ,no4 #g1 and the rim put over after4 ,obs4--,the most general way of sending tourtes to table1 is with a croquante of paste 7,no4 #hf71 or a caramel of spun sugar 7,no4 #he71 put over after it is baked4 ,small ,puffs of preserved ,fruit4--7,no4 #cf47 ,roll out1 a quarter of an inch thick1 good puff paste 7,no4 #a71 and cut it into pieces four inches square2 lay a small quantity of any kind of jam on each1 double them over1 and cut them into square1 triangle1 or1 with a tin cutter1 half moons2 lay them with paper on a baking-plate2 ice them 7as at ,no4 #ca71 bake them about twenty minutes1 taking care not to colour the icing4 ,cranberry ,tart4--7,no4 #cg47 ,take ,swedish1 ,american1 or ,russian cranberries1 pick and wash them in several waters1 put them into a dish1 with the juice of half a lemon1 a quarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar1 to a quart of cranberries4 ,cover it with puff 7,no4 #a7 or tart paste 7,no4 #d71 and bake it three quarters of an hour2 if tart paste is used1 draw it from the oven five minutes before it is done1 and ice it as ,no4 #ca1 return it to the oven1 and send it to table cold4 ,mince ,pies4--7,no4 #ch47 ,sheet with tart paste 7,no4 #d71 half a dozen of tin pans of any size you please2 fill them with mince meat 7,no4 #ci71 and cover with puff paste1 a quarter of an inch thick2 trim round the edges with a knife1 make an aperture at the top with a fork1 bake them in a moderate-heated oven1 and send them to table hot1 first removing the tin4 ,n4,b4 ,some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over4 ,mince ,meat4--7,no4 #ci47 ,two pounds of beef suet1 picked and chopped fine2 two pounds of apple1 pared1 cored1 and minced2 three pounds of currants1 washed and picked2 one pound of raisins1 stoned and chopped fine2 one pound of good moist sugar2 half a pound of citron1 cut into thin slices2 one pound of candied lemon and orange-peel1 cut as ditto2 two pounds of ready-dressed roast beef1 free from skin and gristle1 and chopped fine2 two nutmegs1 grated2 one ounce of salt1 one of ground ginger1 half an ounce of coriander seeds1 half an ounce of allspice1 half an ounce of cloves1 all ground fine2 the juice of six lemons1 and their rinds grated2 half a pint of brandy1 and a pint of sweet wine4 ,mix the suet1 apples1 currants1 meat-plums1 and sweetmeats1 well together in a large pan1 and strew in the spice by degrees2 mix the sugar1 lemon-juice1 wine1 and brandy1 and pour it to the other ingredients1 and stir it well together2 set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place3 when wanted1 stir it up from the bottom1 and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you require4 ,n4,b4 ,the same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat1 and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard4 ,obs4--,the lean side of a buttock1 thoroughly roasted1 is generally chosen for mince meat4 ,cheesecakes4--7,no4 #dj47 ,put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan1 set it near the fire1 and stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet3 let it stand till it is set 7this will take about an hour72 break it well with your hand1 and let it remain half an hour longer2 then pour off the whey1 and put the curd into a colander to drain2 when quite dry1 put it in a mortar1 and pound it quite smooth2 then add four ounces of sugar1 pounded and sifted1 and three ounces of fresh butter2 oil it first by putting it in a little potting-pot1 and setting it near the fire2 stir it all well together3 beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin1 with a little nutmeg grated1 lemon-peel1 and a glass of brandy2 add this to the curd1 with two ounces of currants1 washed and picked2 stir it all well together2 have your tins ready lined with puff paste 7,no4 #a71 about a quarter of an inch thick1 notch them all round the edge1 and fill each with the curd4 ,bake them twenty minutes4 ,when you have company1 and want a variety1 you can make a mould of curd and cream1 by putting the curd in a mould full of holes1 instead of the colander3 let it stand for six hours1 then turn it out very carefully on a dish1 and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf sugar1 and a little nutmeg4 ,what there is left1 if set in a cool place1 will make excellent cheesecakes the next day4 ,lemon ,cheesecakes4--7,no4 #da47 ,grate the rind of three1 and take the juice of two lemons1 and mix them with three sponge biscuits1 six ounces of fresh butter1 four ounces of sifted sugar1 a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon1 half a gill of cream1 and three eggs well beaten2 work them with the hand1 and fill the pans1 which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste1 and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel1 cut thin1 upon the top4 ,orange ,cheesecakes4--7,no4 #db47 ,to be made in the same way1 omitting the lemons1 and using oranges instead4 ,almond ,cheesecakes4--7,no4 #dc47 ,blanch six ounces of sweet1 and half an ounce of bitter almonds2 let them lie half an hour in a drying stove1 or before the fire2 pound them very fine in a mortar1 with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water1 to prevent them from oiling2 set into a stew-pan half a pound of fresh butter2 set it in a warm place1 and cream it very smooth with the hand1 and add it to the almonds1 with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar1 a little grated lemon-peel1 some good cream1 and four eggs2 rub all well together with the pestle2 cover a patty-pan with puff paste2 fill in the mixture2 ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds split1 and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven4 ,mille ,feuilles1 or a ,pyramid of ,paste4--7,no4 #dd47 ,roll out puff paste 7,no4 #a17 half an inch thick2 cut out with a cutter made for the purpose1 in the shape of an oval1 octagon1 square1 diamond1 or any other form1 7and to be got of most tinmen17 observing to let the first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it to table on3 the second piece a size smaller1 and so on in proportion1 till the last is about the size of a shilling2 lay them with paper on a baking-plate1 yelk of egg the top1 and bake them of a light brown colour3 take them from the paper1 and when cold put the largest size in the dish1 then a layer of apricot jam2 then the next size1 a layer of raspberry jam1 and so on1 varying the jam between each layer of paste to the top1 on which place a bunch of dried fruit1 and spin a caramel 7,no4 #he7 of sugar over it4 ,brunswick ,tourte4--7,no4 #de47 ,make a crust as for vol au vent 7,no4 #be72 pare and core with a scoop eight or ten golden pippins2 put them into a stew-pan1 with a gill of sweet wine1 and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar1 a bit of lemon-peel1 a small stick of cinnamon1 and a blade of mace2 stew them over a slow fire till the apples are tender2 set them by3 when cold1 place them in the paste1 and pour round them some good custard 7,no4 #ec74 ,blancmange4--7,no4 #df47 ,boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk1 with an ounce of picked isinglass 7if in summer1 one ounce and a quarter71 the rind of half a lemon1 peeled very thin1 a little cinnamon1 and a blade of mace1 and two and a half ounces of lump sugar3 blanch and pound eight or ten bitter1 and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine1 with a spoonful of rose water1 and mix them with the milk2 strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into a basin1 with half a pint of good cream4 ,let it stand half an hour2 pour it into another basin1 leaving the sediment at the bottom1 and when nearly cold fill it into moulds3 when wanted1 put your finger round the mould2 pull out the blancmange2 set it in the centre of a dish1 and garnish with slices of orange4 ,n4,b4 ,about half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds4 ,orange ,jelly4--7,no4 #dg47 ,boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass1 the rind of an orange cut thin1 a stick of cinnamon1 a few corianders1 and three ounces of loaf-sugar1 till the isinglass is dissolved2 then squeeze two ,seville oranges or lemons1 and enough ,china oranges to make a pint of juice3 mix all together1 and strain it through a tamis or lawn sieve into a basin2 set it in a cold place for half an hour2 pour it into another basin free from sediment2 and when it begins to congeal1 fill your mould3 when wanted1 dip the mould into lukewarm water2 turn it out on a dish1 and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices1 and placed round4 ,n4,b4 ,a few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to its appearance4 ,italian ,cream4--7,no4 #dh47 ,rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon1 and scrape it off with a knife into a deep dish or china bowl1 and add half a gill of brandy1 two ounces and a half of sifted sugar1 the juice of a lemon1 and a pint of double cream1 and beat it up well with a clean whisk2 in the meantime1 boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved2 strain it to the other ingredients2 beat it some time1 and fill your mould2 and when cold and set well1 dish it as in the foregoing receipt4 ,n4,b4 ,the above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur1 raspberry1 strawberry1 or other fruits1 coloured with prepared cochineal1 and named to correspond with the flavour given4 ,trifle4--7,no4 #di47 ,mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar1 the juice of a lemon1 some of the peel grated fine1 half a gill of brandy1 and ditto of ,lisbon or sweet wine1 and a pint and a half of good cream2 whisk the whole well1 and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer1 and put it on a sieve2 continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip2 set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours2 then lay in a deep dish six or eight sponge biscuits1 a quarter of a pound of ratafia1 two ounces of ,jordan almonds blanched and split1 some grated nutmeg and lemon-peel1 currant jelly and raspberry jam1 half a pint of sweet wine1 and a little brandy2 when the cakes have absorbed the liquor1 pour over about a pint of custard1 made rather thicker than for apple pie2 and1 when wanted1 lay on lightly plenty of the whip1 and throw over a few nonpareil comfits4 ,whip ,syllabub4--7,no4 #ej47 ,make a whip as in the last receipt2 mix with a pint of cream1 half a pint of sweet wine1 a glass of brandy1 the juice of a lemon1 grated nutmeg1 six ounces of sifted loaf sugar3 nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mixture1 and lay on with a spoon some of the whip4 ,chantilly ,basket4--7,no4 #ea47 ,dip into sugar boiled to a caramel 7,see ,no4 #he7 small ratafias1 stick them on a dish in what form you please1 then take ratafias one size larger1 and having dipped them into the sugar1 build them together till about four or five inches high2 make a rim of ,york drops or drageas of gum paste1 likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia1 and set it over the basket2 line the inside with wafer-paper1 and a short time before it is wanted1 fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle1 and upon that plenty of good whip4 ,baked ,custard4--7,no4 #eb47 ,boil in a pint of milk1 a few coriander seeds1 a little cinnamon and lemon-peel2 sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar1 and mix with it a pint of cold milk2 beat well eight eggs for ten minutes1 and add the other ingredients2 pour it from one pan into another six or eight times1 strain it through a sieve1 and let it stand some time2 skim off the froth from the top1 fill it in earthen cups1 and bake them immediately in a hot oven1 give them a good colour2 about ten minutes will do them4 ,boiled ,custard4--7,no4 #ec47 ,boil in a pint of milk1 five minutes1 lemon-peel1 corianders1 and cinnamon1 a small quantity of each1 half a dozen of bitter almonds1 blanched and pounded1 and four ounces of loaf sugar3 mix it with a pint of cream1 the yelks of ten eggs1 and the whites of six1 well beaten2 pass it through a hair-sieve1 stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till it begins to thicken1 remove it from the fire1 and continue to stir it till nearly cold2 add two table-spoonfuls of brandy1 fill the cups or glasses1 and grate nutmeg over4 ,almond ,custards4--7,no4 #ed47 ,blanch and pound fine1 with half a gill of rose water1 six ounces of sweet1 and half an ounce of bitter almonds2 boil a pint of milk as ,no4 #eb2 sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar2 rub the almonds through a fine sieve1 with a pint of cream2 strain the milk to the yelks of eight eggs1 and the whites of three well-beaten2 stir it over a fire till it is of a good thickness2 take it off the fire1 and stir it till nearly cold1 to prevent its curdling4 ,n4,b4 ,the above may be baked in cups1 or in a dish1 with a rim of puff paste put round4 ,twelfth ,cake4--7,no4 #ee47 ,two pounds of sifted flour1 two pounds of sifted loaf sugar1 two pounds of butter1 eighteen eggs1 four pounds of currants1 one half pound of almonds blanched and chopped1 one half pound of citron1 one pound of candied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices1 a large nutmeg grated1 half an ounce of ground allspice2 ground cinnamon1 mace1 ginger1 and corianders1 a quarter of an ounce of each1 and a gill of brandy4 ,put the butter into a stew-pan1 in a warm place1 and work it into a smooth cream with the hand1 and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan 7or on your paste board7 for some time2 then break in the eggs by degrees1 and beat it at least twenty minutes2 stir in the brandy1 and then the flour1 and work it a little2 add the fruit1 sweetmeats1 and almonds1 and mix all together lightly2 have ready a hoop cased with paper1 on a baking-plate2 put in the mixture1 smooth it on the top with your hand1 dipped in milk2 put the plate on another1 with sawdust between1 to prevent the bottom from colouring too much3 bake it in a slow oven#cgf-99 four hours or more1 and when nearly cold1 ice it with ,no4 #hd4 ,this mixture would make a handsome cake1 full twelve or fourteen inches over4 ,obs4--,if made in cold weather1 the eggs should be broken into a pan1 and set into another filled with hot water2 likewise the fruit1 sweetmeats1 and almonds1 laid in a warm place1 otherwise it may chill the butter1 and cause the cake to be heavy4 ,bride1 or ,wedding ,cake4--7,no4 #ef47 ,the only difference usually made in these cakes is1 the addition of one pound of raisins1 stoned and mixed with the other fruit4 ,plain ,pound ,cake4--7,no4 #eg47 ,cream1 as in ,no4 #ee1 one pound of butter1 and work it well together with one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth2 beat up nine eggs1 and put them by degrees to the butter1 and beat them for twenty minutes2 mix in lightly one pound of flour2 put the whole into a hoop1 cased with paper1 on a baking-plate1 and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven4 ,an ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above1 will make what is termed a rich seed cake4 ,plum ,pound ,cake4--7,no4 #eh47 ,make a cake as ,no4 #eg1 and when you have beaten it1 mix in lightly half a pound of currants1 two ounces of orange1 and two ounces of candied lemon-peel cut small1 and half a nutmeg grated4 ,common ,seed ,cake4--7,no4 #ei47 ,sift two and a half pounds of flour1 with half a pound of good ,lisbon or loaf sugar1 pounded into a pan or bowl2 make a cavity in the centre1 and pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk1 and a table-spoonful of thick yest2 mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick as cream 7this is called setting a sponge72 set it by in a warm place for one hour2 in the meantime1 melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter1 and add it to the other ingredients1 with one ounce of caraway-seeds1 and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness2 line a hoop with paper1 well rubbed over with butter2 put in the mixture2 set it some time to prove in a stove1 or before the fire1 and bake it on a plate about an hour1 in rather a hot oven2 when done1 rub the top over with a paste-brush dipped in milk4 ,rich ,yest ,cake4--7,no4 #fj47 ,set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt1 with the same proportions of flour1 sugar1 milk1 and yest3 when it has lain some time1 mix it with three quarters of a pound of butter oiled1 one pound and a quarter of currants1 half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine1 grated nutmeg1 ground allspice and cinnamon1 a quarter of an ounce of each3 case a hoop as stated ,no4 #ei1 bake it in a good-heated oven one hour and a half4 ,n4,b4 ,it may be iced with ,no4 #hd1 and ornamented as a twelfth cake4 ,queen1 or ,heart ,cakes4--7,no4 #fa47 ,one pound of sifted sugar1 one pound of butter1 eight eggs1 one pound and a quarter of flour1 two ounces of currants1 and half a nutmeg grated4 ,cream the butter as at ,no4 #ee1 and mix it well with the sugar and spice1 then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes1 add the remainder of the eggs1 and work it ten minutes longer1 stir in the flour lightly1 and the currants afterward1 then take small tin pans of any shape 7hearts the most usual71 rub the inside of each with butter1 fill and bake them a few minutes in a hot oven1 on a sheet of matted wire1 or on a baking-plate2 when done1 remove them as early as possible from the pans4 ,queen's ,drops4--7,no4 #fb47 ,leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt1 and add two ounces more of currants1 and two ounces of candied peel cut small2 work it the same as in the last receipt1 and when ready put the measure into a biscuit-funnel1#cgh-99 and lay them out in drops about the size of half a crown1 on white paper2 bake them in a hot oven1 and1 when nearly cold1 take them from the paper4 ,shrewsbury ,cakes4--7,no4 #fc47 ,rub well together one pound of pounded sugar1 one pound of fresh butter1 and one pound and a half of sifted flour1 mix it into a paste1 with half a gill of milk or cream1 and one egg1 let it lie half an hour1 roll it out thin1 cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter1 about three inches over1 and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven4 ,banbury ,cakes4--7,no4 #fd47 ,set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest1 a gill of warm milk1 and a pound of flour2 when it has worked a little1 mix with it half a pound of currants1 washed and picked1 half a pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut small1 one ounce of spice1 such as ground cinnamon1 allspice1 ginger1 and grated nutmeg3 mix the whole together with half a pound of honey2 roll out puff paste 7,no4 #a17 a quarter of an inch thick1 cut it into rounds with a cutter1 about four inches over1 lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture2 close it round with the fingers in the form of an oval2 place the join underneath2 press it flat with the hand2 sift sugar over it1 and bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour1 in a moderate oven1 and of a light colour4 ,bath ,buns4--7,no4 #fe47 ,rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour1 and half a pound of butter2 beat six eggs1 and add them to the flour1 c4 with a table-spoonful of good yest2 mix them all together1 with about half a tea-cupful of milk2 set it in a warm place for an hour1 then mix in six ounces of sifted sugar1 and a few caraway seeds2 mould them into buns with a table-spoon1 on a clean baking-plate2 throw six or eight caraway comfits on each1 and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes4 ,this quantity should make about eighteen4 ,sponge ,biscuits4--7,no4 #ff47 ,break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan#cgi-99 nine good-sized eggs1 with one pound of sifted loaf sugar1 and some grated lemon-peel2 set the pan over a very slow fire1 and whisk it till quite warm 7but not too hot to set the eggs72 remove the pan from the fire1 and whisk it till cold1 which may be a quarter of an hour2 then stir in the flour lightly with a spattle2 previous to which1 prepare the sponge frame as follows3--,wipe them well out with a clean cloth1 rub the insides with a brush dipped in butter1 which has been clarified1 and sift loaf sugar over2 fill the frames with the mixture2 throw pounded sugar over2 bake them five minutes in a brisk oven3 when done1 take them from the frames1 and lay them on a sieve4 ,savoy ,cake1 or ,sponge ,cake in a ,mould4--7,no4 #fg47 ,take nine eggs1 their weight of sugar1 and six of flour1 some grated lemon1 or a few drops of essence of lemon1 and half a gill of orange-flower water1 work them as in the last receipt2 put in the orange-flower water when you take it from the fire2 be very careful the mould is quite dry2 rub it all over the inside with butter2 put some pounded sugar round the mould upon the butter1 and shake it well to get it out of the crevices3 tie a slip of paper round the mould2 fill it three parts full with the mixture1 and bake it one hour in a slack oven2 when done1 let it stand for a few minutes1 and take it from the mould1 which may be done by shaking it a little4 ,biscuit ,drops4--7,no4 #fh47 ,beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggs for twenty minutes2 then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds1 and one pound and a quarter of flour3 lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate1 put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel1 and drop it out on the paper about the size of half a crown2 sift sugar over1 and bake them in a hot oven4 ,savoy ,biscuits4--7,no4 #fi47 ,to be made as drop biscuits1 omitting the caraways1 and quarter of a pound of flour3 put it into the biscuit-funnel1 and lay it out about the length and size of your finger1 on common shop paper2 strew sugar over1 and bake them in a hot oven2 when cold1 wet the backs of the paper with a paste-brush and water3 when they have lain some time1 take them carefully off1 and place them back to back4 ,italian ,macaroons4--7,no4 #gj47 ,take one pound of ,valentia or ,jordan almonds1 blanched1 pound them quite fine with the whites of four eggs2 add two pounds and a half of sifted loaf sugar1 and rub them well together with the pestle2 put in by degrees about ten or eleven more whites1 working them well as you put them in2 but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is to bake one or two1 and if you find them heavy1 put one or two more whites2 put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel1 and lay them out on wafer-paper1 in pieces about the size of a small walnut1 having ready about two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips1 put three or four pieces on each1 and bake them on wires1 or a baking-plate1 in a slow oven4 ,obs4--,almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days before they are used1 by which means they will work much better1 and where large quantities are used1 it is advised to grind them in a mill provided for that purpose4 ,ratafia ,cakes4--7,no4 #ga47 ,to half a pound of blanched bitter1 and half a pound of sweet1 almonds1 put the whites of four eggs2 beat them quite fine in a mortar1 and stir in two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar1 pounded and sifted2 rub them well together with the whites 7by degrees7 of nine eggs 7try their lightness as in the last receipt72 lay them out from the biscuit-funnel on cartridge-paper1 in drops about the size of a shilling1 and bake them in a middling-heated oven1 of a light brown colour1 and take them from the papers as soon as cold4 ,n4,b4 ,a smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles4 ,almond ,sponge ,cake4--7,no4 #gb47 ,pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine1 with the whites of three eggs2 then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar1 some grated lemon-peel1 and the yelks of fifteen eggs--work them well together3 beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs1 and stir them into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry flour3 prepare a mould as at ,no4 #fg2 put in the mixture1 and bake it an hour in a slow oven3 take it carefully from the mould1 and set it on a sieve4 ,ratafia ,cake4--7,no4 #gc47 ,to be made as above1 omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet1 and substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds4 ,diet ,bread ,cake4--7,no4 #gd47 ,boil1 in half a pint of water1 one pound and a half of lump sugar2 have ready one pint of eggs1 three parts yelks1 in a pan2 pour in the sugar1 and whisk it quick till cold1 or about a quarter of an hour2 then stir in two pounds of sifted flour2 case the inside of square tins with white paper2 fill them three parts full2 sift a little sugar over1 and bake it in a warm oven1 and while hot remove them from the moulds4 ,orange ,gingerbread4--7,no4 #ge47 ,sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour1 and add to it a pound and three quarters of treacle1 six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small1 three quarters of a pound of moist sugar1 one ounce of ground ginger1 and one ounce of allspice3 melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of butter2 mix the whole well together1 and lay it by for twelve hours2 roll it out with as little flour as possible1 about half an inch thick2 cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide2 mark them in the form of checkers with the back of a knife2 put them on a baking-plate about a quarter of an inch apart2 rub them over with a brush dipped into the yelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk2 bake it in a cool oven about a quarter of an hour3 when done1 wash them slightly over again1 divide the pieces with a knife 7as in baking they will run together74 ,gingerbread ,nuts4--7,no4 #gf47 ,to two pounds of sifted flour1 put two pounds of treacle1 three quarters of a pound of moist sugar1 half a pound of candied orange-peel cut small1 one ounce and a half of ground ginger1 one ounce of ground caraways1 and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled3 mix all well together1 and set it by some time2 then roll it out in pieces about the size of a small walnut2 lay them in rows on a baking-plate2 dress them flat with the hand1 and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes4 ,plain ,buns4--7,no4 #gg47 ,to four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar2 make a cavity in the centre1 and stir in a gill of good yest1 a pint of lukewarm milk1 with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream2 cover it over1 and let it lie two hours2 then melt to an oil 7but not hot7 one pound of butter1 stir it into the other ingredients1 with enough warm milk to make it a soft paste2 throw a little flour over1 and let them lie an hour2 have ready a baking-platter rubbed over with butter2 mould with the hand the dough into buns1 about the size of a large egg2 lay them in rows full three inches apart2 set them in a warm place for half an hour1 or till they have risen to double their size2 bake them in a hot oven of a good colour1 and wash them over with a brush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven4 ,cross ,buns4--7,no4 #gh47 ,to the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice1 cinnamon1 and mace1 mixed2 and when half proved1 press the form of a cross with a tin mould 7made for the purpose7 in the centre1 and proceed as above4 ,seed ,buns4--7,no4 #gi47 ,take two pounds of plain bun dough 7,no4 #gg71 and mix in one ounce of caraway seeds2 butter the insides of small tart-pans2 mould the dough into buns1 and put one in each pan2 set them to rise in a warm place2 and when sufficiently proved1 ice them with the white of an egg beat to a froth1 and laid on with a paste-brush2 some pounded sugar upon that1 and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush3 bake them in a warm oven about ten minutes4 ,plum ,buns4--7,no4 #hj47 ,to two pounds of ,no4 #gg mixture1 put half a pound of currants1 a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces1 half a nutmeg grated1 half an ounce of mixed spice1 such as allspice1 cinnamon1 c43 mould them into buns2 jag them round the edge with a knife1 and proceed as with plain buns1 ,no4 #gg4 ,orgeat4--7,no4 #ha47 ,pound very fine one pound of ,jordan1 and one ounce of bitter1 almonds1 in a marble mortar1 with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep them from oiling2 then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint of spring-water2 rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve1 till the almonds are quite dry1 which will reduce the quantity to about a quart3 have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water1 and boil it to a crack 7which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar1 and then into cold water2 and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your finger1 it has boiled enough72 put in the almonds2 boil it one minute1 and when cold put it into small bottles close corked2 a table-spoonful of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water3 shake the bottle before using4 ,obs4--,if the orgeat is for present use1 the almonds may be pounded as above1 and mixed with one quart of water1 one quart of milk1 a pint of capillaire or clarified sugar1 rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve1 and put into decanters for use4 ,baked ,pears4--7,no4 #hb47 ,take twelve large baking pears2 pare and cut them into halves1 leaving the stem about half an inch long2 take out the core with the point of a knife1 and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan1 the inside of which is quite bright1 with the cover to fit quite close2 put to them the rind of a lemon cut thin1 with half its juice1 a small stick of cinnamon1 and twenty grains of allspice2 cover them with spring-water1 and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water3 cover them up close1 and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven3 they will be quite tender1 and of a bright colour4 ,obs4--,prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears2 but if the above is strictly attended to1 it will be found to answer best4 ,to dry ,apples4--7,no4 #hc47 ,take biffins1 or orange or lemon-pippins2 the former are the best2 choose the clearest rinds1 and without any blemishes2 lay them on clean straw on a baking-wire2 cover them well with more straw2 set them into a slow oven2 let them remain for four or five hours2 draw them out and rub them in your hands1 and press them very gently1 otherwise you will burst the skins2 return them into the oven for about an hour2 press them again2 when cold1 if they look dry1 rub them over with a little clarified sugar4 ,obs4--,by being put into the oven four or five times1 pressing them between each time1 they may be brought as flat1 and eat as well1 as the dried biffins from ,norfolk4 ,icing1 for ,twelfth or ,bride ,cake4--7,no4 #hd47 ,take one pound of double-refined sugar1 pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve2 put into a pan quite free from grease2 break in the whites of six eggs1 and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence2 beat it well with a spattle for ten minutes2 then squeeze in the juice of a lemon1 and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent4 ,set the cake you intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes2 then spread over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible4 ,if for a wedding-cake only1 plain ice it2 if for a twelfth cake1 ornament it with gum paste1 or fancy articles of any description4 ,obs4--,a good twelfth cake1 not baked too much1 and kept in a cool dry place1 will retain its moisture and eat well1 if twelve months old4 ,to boil ,sugar to ,caramel4--7,no4 #he47 ,break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar2 put in a gill of spring-water2 set it on a fire2 when it boils skim it quite clean1 and let it boil quick1 till it comes to the degree called crack2 which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar1 and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water2 and if it remains hard1 it has attained that degree3 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon1 and let it remain one minute longer on the fire2 then set the pan into another of cold water3 have ready moulds of any shape2 rub them over with sweet oil2 dip a spoon or fork into the sugar1 and throw it over the mould in fine threads1 till it is quite covered3 make a small handle of caramel1 or stick on two or three small gum paste rings1 by way of ornament1 and place it over small pastry of any description4 ,a ,croquante of ,paste4--7,no4 #hf47 ,roll out paste1 as ,no4 #h1 about the eighth of an inch thick2 rub over a plain mould with a little fresh butter2 lay on the paste very even1 and equally thin on both sides2 pare it round the rim2 then with a small penknife cut out small pieces1 as fancy may direct1 such as diamonds1 stars1 circles1 sprigs1 c42 or use a small tin cutter of any shape3 let it lie to dry some time1 and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven1 of a light colour3 remove it from the mould1 and place it over a tart1 or any other dish of small pastry4 ,derby or ,short ,cakes4--7,no4 #hg47 ,rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour2 put one pound of currants1 one pound of good moist sugar1 and one egg2 mix all together with half a pint of milk3 roll it out thin1 and cut them into round cakes with a cutter2 lay them on a clean baking-plate1 and put them into a middling-heated oven for about five minutes4 ,egg and ,ham ,patties4--7,no4 #hh47 ,cut a slice of bread two inches thick1 from the most solid part of a stale quartern loaf3 have ready a tin round cutter1 two inches diameter2 cut out four or five pieces1 then take a cutter two sizes smaller1 press it nearly through the larger pieces1 then remove with a small knife the bread from the inner circle3 have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling lard2 fry them of a light-brown colour1 drain them dry with a clean cloth1 and set them by till wanted2 then take half a pound of lean ham1 mince it small2 add to it a gill of good brown sauce2 stir it over the fire a few minutes1 and put a small quantity of ,cayenne pepper and lemon-juice3 fill the shapes with the mixture1 and lay a poached egg 7,no4 #edf7 upon each4 ,damson1 or other ,plum ,cheese4--7,no4 #hi47 ,take damsons that have been preserved without sugar2 pass them through a sieve1 to take out the skins and stones4 ,to every pound of pulp of fruit put half a pound of loaf sugar1 broke small2 boil them together till it becomes quite stiff2 pour it into four common-sized dinner plates1 rubbed with a little sweet oil2 put it into a warm place to dry1 and when quite firm1 take it from the plate1 and cut it into any shape you choose4 ,n4,b4 ,damson cheese is generally used in desserts4 ,barley ,sugar4--7,no4 #ij47 ,clarify1 as ,no4 #dge1 three pounds of refined sugar2 boil it to the degree of cracked 7which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into the sugar1 and then instantly into cold water1 and if it appears brittle1 it is boiled enough72 squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the juice1 and four drops of essence of lemon1 and let it boil up once or twice1 and set it by a few minutes3 have ready a marble slab1 or smooth stone1 rubbed over with sweet oil2 pour over the sugar2 cut it into long stripes with a large pair of scissors2 twist it a little1 and when cold1 keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters4 ,n4,b4 ,a few drops of essence of ginger1 instead of lemon1 will make what is called ginger barley sugar4 ,barley ,sugar ,drops4--7,no4 #ia47 ,to be made as the last receipt4 ,have ready1 by the time the sugar is boiled sufficiently1 a large sheet of paper1 with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it2 put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has a fine lip2 pour it out1 in drops not larger than a shilling1 on to the sifted sugar2 when cold1 fold them up separately in white paper4 ,n4,b4 ,some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar4 ,raspberry ,jam4--7,no4 #ib47 ,rub fresh-gathered raspberries1 taken on a dry day1 through a wicker sieve2 to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar1 broke small2 put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire2 when it begins to boil1 skim it well1 and stir it twenty minutes2 put into small pots2 cut white paper to the size of the top of the pot2 dip them in brandy1 and put them over the jam when cold1 with a double paper tied over the pot4 ,strawberry jam is made the same way1 and the scarlets are most proper for that purpose4 ,apricot1 or any ,plum ,jam4--7,no4 #ic47 ,after taking away the stones from the apricots1 and cutting out any blemishes they may have2 put them over a slow fire1 in a clean stew-pan1 with half a pint of water2 when scalded1 rub them through a hair-sieve3 to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar2 put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire1 and when it boils skim it well1 and throw in the kernels of the apricots1 and half an ounce of bitter almonds1 blanched2 boil it a quarter of an hour fast1 and stirring it all the time2 remove it from the fire1 and fill it into pots1 and cover them as at ,no4 #ib4 ,n4,b4 ,green gages or plums may be done in the same way1 omitting the kernels or almonds4 ,lemon ,chips4--7,no4 #id47 ,take large smooth-rinded ,malaga lemons2 race or cut off their peel into chips with a small knife 7this will require some practice to do it properly72 throw them into salt and water till next day2 have ready a pan of boiling water1 throw them in and boil them tender4 ,drain them well3 after having lain some time in water to cool1 put them in an earthen pan1 pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them1 and then let them lie two days2 then strain the syrup1 put more sugar1 and reduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick2 put in the chips1 and simmer them a few minutes1 and set them by for two days3 repeat it once more2 let them be two days longer1 and they will be fit to candy1 which must be done as follows3 take four pints of clarified sugar1 which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips1 boil it to the degree of blown 7which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar1 and blowing strongly through the holes of it2 if little bladders appear1 it has attained that degree72 and when the chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth1 put them into the syrup1 stirring them about with the skimmer till you see the sugar become white2 then take them out with two forks2 shake them lightly into a wire sieve1 and set them into a stove1 or in a warm place to dry4 ,n4,b4 ,orange chips are done in the same way4 ,dried ,cherries4--7,no4 #ie47 ,take large ,kentish cherries1 not too ripe2 pick off the stalks1 and take out the stones with a quill1 cut nearly as for a pen3 to three pounds of which take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar--7see ,no4 #dge17 boil it to the degree of blown 7for which see last receipt72 put in the cherries1 give them a boil1 and set them by in an earthen pan till the next day2 then strain the syrup1 add more sugar1 and boil it of a good consistence2 put the cherries in1 and boil them five minutes1 and set them by another day3 repeat the boiling two more days1 and when wanted1 drain them some time1 and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove1 or nearly cold oven4 ,green ,gages preserved in ,syrup4--7,no4 #if47 ,take the gages when nearly ripe2 cut the stalks about half an inch from the fruit2 put them into cold water1 with a lump of alum about the size of a walnut2 and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer3 take them from the fire1 and put them into cold water2 drain1 and pack them close into a preserving-pan2 pour over them enough clarified sugar to cover them2 simmer them two or three minutes2 set them by in an earthen pan till next day1 when drain the gages1 and boil the syrup with more sugar1 till quite thick2 put in the gages1 and simmer them three minutes more1 and repeat it for two days2 then boil clarified sugar to a blow1 as at ,no4 #id1 place the gages into glasses1 and pour the syrup over1 and1 when cold1 tie over a bladder1 and upon that a leather2 and should you want any for drying1 drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a stove or slow oven4 ,apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way4 ,to preserve ,ginger4--7,no4 #ig47 ,take green ginger1 pare it neatly with a sharp knife2 throw it into a pan of cold water as it is pared1 to keep it white2 when you have sufficient1 boil it till tender1 changing the water three times2 each time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the ginger2 when tender1 throw it into cold water3 for seven pounds of ginger1 clarify eight pounds of refined sugar1 see ,no4 #dge2 when cold1 drain the ginger1 and put it in an earthen pan1 with enough of the sugar1 cold1 to cover it1 and let it stand two days2 then pour the syrup from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar2 boil it some time1 and when cold1 pour it on the ginger again1 and set it by three days at least4 ,then take the syrup from the ginger2 boil it1 and put it hot over the ginger2 proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered the ginger1 boiling the syrup1 and skimming off the scum that rises each time1 until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger4 ,obs4--,if you put the syrup on hot at first1 or if too rich1 the ginger will shrink1 and not take the sugar4 ,n4,b4 ,when green ginger is not to be procured1 take large races of ,jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender1 pare neatly1 and proceed as above4 ,to preserve ,cucumbers4--7,no4 #ih47 ,take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers2 split them down and take out all the seeds2 lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg1 three days2 set them on a fire with cold water1 and a small lump of alum1 and boil them a few minutes1 or till tender2 drain them1 and pour on them a thin syrup2 let them lie two days2 boil the syrup again1 and put it over the cucumbers2 repeat it twice more2 then have ready some fresh clarified sugar1 boiled to a blow 7see ,no4 #id72 put in the cucumbers1 and simmer it five minutes2 set it by till next day2 boil the syrup and cucumbers again1 and set them in glasses for use4 ,preserved ,fruit1 without ,sugar4--7,no4 #ii47 ,take damsons when not too ripe2 pick off the stalks1 and put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles1 taking care not to put in any but what are whole1 and without blemish2 shake them well down 7otherwise the bottles will not be half full when done72 stop the bottles with new soft corks1 not too tight2 set them into a very slow oven 7nearly cold7 four or five hours2 the slower they are done the better2 when they begin to shrink in the bottles1 it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm3 take them out1 and before they are cold1 drive in the corks quite tight2 set them in a bottle-rack or basket1 with the mouth downwards1 and they will keep good several years4 ,green gooseberries1 morello cherries1 currants1 green gages1 or bullace1 may be done the same way4 ,obs4--,if the corks are good1 and fit well1 there will be no occasion for cementing them2 but should bungs be used1 it will be necessary4 ,bread4--7,no4 #ajj47 ,put a quartern of flour into a large basin1 with two tea-spoonfuls of salt2 make a hole in the middle2 then put in a basin four table-spoonfuls1 of good yest2 stir in a pint of milk1 lukewarm2 put it in the hole of the flour2 stir it just to make it of a thin batter2 then strew a little flour over the top2 then set it on one side of the fire1 and cover it over3 let it stand till the next morning2 then make it into dough2 add half a pint more of warm milk2 knead it for ten minutes1 and then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half2 then knead it again1 and it is ready either for loaves or bricks3 bake them from one hour and a half to two hours1 according to the size4 ,french ,bread and ,rolls4--7,no4 #ajj9947 ,take a pint and a half of milk2 make it quite warm2 half a pint of small-beer yest2 add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter2 put it into a pan2 cover it over1 and keep it warm3 when it has risen as high as it will1 add a quarter of a pint of warm water1 and half an ounce of salt1--mix them well together2--rub into a little flour two ounces of butter2 then make your dough1 not quite so stiff as for your bread2 let it stand for three quarters of an hour1 and it will be ready to make into rolls1 c43 let them stand till they have risen1 and bake them in a quick oven4 ,,sally ,,lunn4--,tea ,cakes4--7,no4 #aja47 ,take one pint of milk quite warm1 a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest2 put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it as thick as batter1--cover it over1 and let it stand till it has risen as high as it will1 i4 e4 about two hours3 add two ounces of lump sugar1 dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk1#cia-99 a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine2 then make your dough the same as for ,french rolls1 c42 and let it stand half an hour2 then make up your cakes1 and put them on tins3 when they have stood to rise1 bake them in a quick oven4 ,care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot1 or too cold1 as either extreme will destroy the fermentation4 ,in summer it should be lukewarm1 in winter a little warmer1 and in very cold weather1 warmer still4 ,when it has first risen1 if you are not prepared1 it will not hurt to stand an hour4 ,muffins4--7,no4 #ajb47 ,take one pint of milk quite warm1 and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest2 strain them into a pan1 and add sufficient flour to make it like a batter2 cover it over1 and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen2 then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk1 and one ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine2 mix them well together3 then add sufficient flour to make it into dough1 cover it over1 and let it stand half an hour2 then work it up again1 and break it into small pieces3 roll them up quite round1 and cover them over for a quarter of an hour2 then bake them4 ,crumpets4--7,no4 #ajc47 ,the same3 instead of making the mixture into dough1 add only sufficient flour to make a thick batter1 and when it has stood a quarter of an hour it will be ready to bake4 ,muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed on the top2 but they will also bake in a frying-pan1 taking care the fire is not too fierce1 and turning them when lightly browned4 ,yorkshire ,cakes4--7,no4 #ajd47 ,take a pint and a half of milk quite warm1 and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest2 mix them well together in a pan with sufficient flour to make a thick batter2 let it stand in a warm place covered over until it has risen as high as it will2 rub six ounces of butter into some flour till it is quite fine2 then break three eggs into your pan with the flour and butter2 mix them well together2 then add sufficient flour to make it into a dough1 and let it stand a quarter of an hour2 then work it up-again1 and break it into pieces about the size of an egg1 or larger1 as you may fancy2 roll them round and smooth with your hand1 and put them on tins1 and let them stand covered over with a light piece of flannel4 ,,footnotes3 #cgf-99 ,the goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well baked2 great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat of the oven3 be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first1 when1 after its being well cleaned out1 may be baked such articles as require a hot oven1 after which such as are directed to be baked in a well-heated or moderate oven2 and1 lastly1 those in a slow soaking or cool one4 ,with a little care the above degrees may soon be known4 ,in making butter cakes1 such as ,nos4 #ee1 #eg1 or #fa1 too much attention cannot be paid to have the butter well creamed2 for should it be made too warm1 it would1 cause the mixture to be the same1 and when put to bake1 the fruit1 sweetmeats1 c4 would1 in that event1 fall to the bottom4 ,yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven1 as they will prove but little afterward4 ,in making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used1 the different utensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease1 or it is next to impossible to have good ones4 ,in buttering the insides of cake-moulds1 the butter should be nicely clarified1 and when nearly cold1 laid on quite smooth1 with a small brush kept for that purpose4 ,sugar and flour should be quite dry1 and a drum sieve is recommended for the sugar4 ,the old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate 7except in very few cases71 is not only useless1 but a waste of time4 ,they should be well incorporated with the other ingredients1 and1 in some instances1 they cannot be beaten too much4 #cgh-99 ,take fine brown ,holland1 and make a bag in the form of a cone1 about five inches over at the top4 ,cut a small hole at the bottom1 and tie in a small pipe of a tapering form1 about two inches long2 and the bore must be large or small1 according to the size of the biscuits or cakes to be made4 ,when the various mixtures are put in1 lay the pipe close to the paper1 and press it out in rows4 ,some use a bullock's bladder for the purpose4 #cgi-99 ,a wide-mouthed earthen pan1 made quite hot in the oven1 or on a fire1 will be a good substitute4 #cia-99 ,if you do not mind the expense1 the cake will be much lighter if1 instead of the milk1 you put four eggs4 ,,observations ,,on ,,puddings ,,and ,,pies4 ,the quality of the various articles employed in the composition of puddings and pies varies so much1 that two puddings1 made exactly according to the same receipt1 will be so different#cib-99 one would hardly suppose they were made by the same person1 and certainly not with precisely the same quantities of the 7apparently7 same ingredients4 ,flour fresh ground1 pure new milk1 fresh laid eggs1 fresh butter1 fresh suet1 c4 will make a very different composition1 than when kept till each article is half spoiled4 ,plum puddings1 when boiled1 if hung up in a cool place in the cloth they are boiled in1 will keep good some months2 when wanted1 take them out of the cloth1 and put them into a clean cloth1 and as soon as warmed through1 they are ready4 ,,mem4--,in composing these receipts1 the quantities of eggs1 butter1 c4 are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books2 but quite sufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light and wholesome2--we have diminished the expense1 without impoverishing the preparations2 and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with them as the rational economist4 ,milk1 in its genuine state1 varies considerably in the quantity of cream it will throw up1 depending on the material with which the cow is fed4 ,the cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream1 which varies fifteen or twenty per cent4 ,eggs vary considerably in size2 in the following receipts we mean the full-sized hen's egg2 if you have only pullet's eggs1 use two for one4 ,break eggs one by one into a basin1 and not all into the bowl together2 because then1 if you meet with a bad one1 that will spoil all the rest3 strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles4 ,n4,b4 ,to preserve eggs for twelve months1 see ,n4,b4 to ,no4 #edg4 ,snow1 and small beer1 have been recommended by some economists as admirable substitutes for eggs2 they will no more answer this purpose than as substitutes for sugar or brandy4 ,flour1 according to that champion against adulteration1 ,mr4 ,accum1 varies in quality as much as any thing4 ,butter also varies much in quality4 ,salt butter may be washed from the salt1 and then it will make very good pastry4 ,lard varies extremely from the time it is kept1 c4 ,when you purchase it1 have the bladder cut1 and ascertain that it be sweet and good4 ,suet4 ,beef is the best1 then mutton and veal2 when this is used in very hot weather1 while you chop it1 dredge it lightly with a little flour4 ,beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet is employed4 ,drippings1 especially from beef1 when very clean and nice1 are frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies1 and for such purposes are a satisfactory substitute for butter1 lard1 c4 ,to clean and preserve drippings1 see ,no4 #hc4 ,currants1 previous to putting them into the pudding1 should be plumped3 this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them3 wash them well1 and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire1 pick them clean from the stones2--this not only makes them look better1 but cleanses them from all dirt4 ,raisins1 figs1 dried cherries1 candied orange and lemon-peel1 citron1 and preserves of all kinds1 fresh fruits1 gooseberries1 currants1 plums1 damsons1 c4 are added to batter and suet puddings1 or enclosed in the crust ordered for apple dumplings1 and make all the various puddings called by those names4 ,batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps2 to ensure this1 first mix the flour with a little milk1 add the remainder by degrees1 and then the other ingredients4 ,if it is a plain pudding1 put it through a hair-sieve2 this will take out all lumps effectually4 ,batter puddings should be tied up tight3 if boiled in a mould1 butter it first2 if baked1 also butter the pan4 ,be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding2 set your stew-pan on a trivet over the fire1 and keep it steadily boiling all the time2--if set upon the fire1 the pudding often burns4 ,be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet and clean2 wash it without any soap1 unless very greasy2 then rinse it thoroughly in clean water after4 ,immediately before you use it1 dip it in boiling water2 squeeze it dry1 and dredge it with flour4 ,if your fire is very fierce1 mind and stir the puddings every now and then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan2 if in a mould1 this care is not so much required1 but keep plenty of water in the saucepan4 ,when puddings are boiled in a cloth1 it should be just dipped in a basin of cold water1 before you untie the pudding-cloth1 as that will prevent it from sticking2 but when boiled in a mould1 if it is well buttered1 they will turn out without4 ,custard or bread puddings require to stand five minutes before they are turned out4 ,they should always be boiled in a mould or cups4 ,keep your paste-board1 rolling-pin1 cutters1 and tins very clean3 the least dust on the tins and cutters1 or the least hard paste on the rolling-pin1 will spoil the whole of your labour4 ,things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any other purpose2 be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before you use it1 for puff paste or cakes2 if damp it will make them heavy4 ,in using butter for puff paste1 you should take the greatest care to previously work it well on the paste-board or slab1 to get out all the water and buttermilk1 which very often remains in2 when you have worked it well with a clean knife1 dab it over with a soft cloth1 and it is then ready to lay on your paste2 do not make your paste over stiff before you put in your butter4 ,for those who do not understand making puff paste1 it is by far the best way to work the butter in at two separate times1 divide it in half1 and break the half in little bits1 and cover your paste all over3 dredge it lightly with flour1 then fold it over each side and ends1 roll it out quite thin1 and then put in the rest of the butter1 fold it1 and roll it again4 ,remember always to roll puff paste from you4 ,the best made paste1 if not properly baked1 will not do the cook any credit4 ,those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste1 fruit pies1 c4 ,puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruit pies1 in an iron oven4 ,this may be easily avoided1 by putting two or three bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set to get hot4 ,this will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of the pies1 but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and house1 and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven4 ,college ,puddings4--7,no4 #aje47 ,beat four eggs1 yelks and whites together1 in a quart basin1 with two ounces of flour1 half a nutmeg1 a little ginger1 and three ounces of sugar2 pounded loaf sugar is best4 ,beat it into a smooth batter2 then add six ounces of suet1 chopped fine1 six of currants1 well washed and picked2 mix it all well together2 a glass of brandy or white wine will improve it4 ,these puddings are generally fried in butter or lard2 but they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans2 twenty minutes will bake them3 if fried1 fry them till they are of a nice light brown1 and when fried1 roll them in a little flour4 ,you may add one ounce of orange or citron1 minced very fine2 when you bake them1 add one more egg1 or two spoonfuls of milk4 ,serve them up with white wine sauce4 ,rice ,puddings baked1 or boiled4--7,no4 #ajf47 ,wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice1 put it in a quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water1 set it on the fire1 and let it boil five minutes2 pour away the water1 and put in one quart of milk1 a roll of lemon peel1 and a bit of cinnamon2 let it boil gently till the rice is quite tender2 it will take at least one hour and a quarter2 be careful to stir it every five minutes2 take it off the fire1 and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter1 and beat up three eggs on a plate1 a salt-spoonful of nutmeg1 two ounces of sugar2 put it into the pudding1 and stir it till it is quite smooth2 line a pie-dish big enough to hold it with puff paste1 notch it round the edge1 put in your pudding1 and bake it three quarters of an hour3 this will be a nice firm pudding4 ,if you like it to eat more like custard1 add one more egg1 and half a pint more milk2 it will be better a little thinner when boiled2 one hour will boil it4 ,if you like it in little puddings1 butter small tea-cups1 and either bake or boil them1 half an hour will do either3 you may vary the pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel1 minced very fine1 or dried cherries1 or three ounces of currants1 or raisins1 or apples minced fine4 ,if the puddings are baked or boiled1 serve them with white-wine sauce1 or butter and sugar4 ,ground ,rice ,pudding4--7,no4 #ajg47 ,put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan1 and by degrees stir in a pint and a half of milk2 set it on the fire1 with a roll of lemon and a bit of cinnamon2 keep stirring it till it boils2 beat it to a smooth batter2 then set it on the trivet1 where it will simmer gently for a quarter of an hour2 then beat three eggs on a plate1 stir them into the pudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg1 take out the lemon-peel and cinnamon1 stir it all well together1 line a pie-dish with thin puff paste 7,no4 #a of receipts for pastry71 big enough to hold it1 or butter the dish well1 and bake it half an hour2 if boiled1 it will take one hour in a mould well buttered2 three ounces of currants may be added4 ,rice ,snow ,balls4--7,no4 #ajh47 ,wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean1 put it on in a saucepan with plenty of water2 when it boils let it boil ten minutes1 drain it on a sieve till it is quite dry1 and then pare six apples1 weighing two ounces and a half each4 ,divide the rice into six parcels1 in separate cloths1 put one apple in each1 tie it loose1 and boil it one hour2 serve it with sugar and butter1 or wine sauce4 ,rice ,blancmange4--7,no4 #aji47 ,put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible1 till it almost bursts2 then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream1 and boil it till it is quite a mash1 stirring it the whole time it is on the fire1 that it may not burn2 dip a shape in cold water1 and do not dry it2 put in the rice1 and let it stand until quite cold1 when it will come easily out of the shape4 ,this dish is much approved of2 it is eaten with cream or custard1 and preserved fruits2 raspberries are best4 ,it should be made the day before it is wanted1 that it may get firm4 ,this blancmange will eat much nicer1 flavoured with spices1 lemon-peel1 c41 and sweetened with a little loaf sugar1 add it with the milk1 and take out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould4 ,save-all ,pudding4--7,no4 #aaj47 ,put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan2 to about a pound1 put a pint of milk2 set it on the trivet till it boils2 beat it up quite smooth2 then break in three eggs1 three ounces of sugar1 with a little nutmeg1 ginger1 or allspice1 and stir it all well together4 ,butter a dish big enough to hold it1 put in the pudding1 and have ready two ounces of suet chopped very fine1 strew it over the top of the pudding1 and bake it three quarters of an hour2 four ounces of currants will make it much better4 ,batter ,pudding1 baked or boiled4--7,no4 #aaa47 ,break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence2 beat them well together1 and then add four ounces of flour2 beat it into a smooth batter1 and by degrees add half a pint of milk3 have your saucepan ready boiling1 and butter an earthen mould well1 put the pudding in1 and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth1 and boil it one hour and a quarter4 ,or1 put it in a dish that you have well buttered1 and bake it three quarters of an hour4 ,currants washed and picked clean1 or raisins stoned1 are good in this pudding1 and it is then called a black cap3 or1 add loaf sugar1 and a little nutmeg and ginger without the fruit1--it is very good that way2 serve it with wine sauce4 ,apple ,pudding boiled4--7,no4 #aab47 ,chop four ounces of beef suet very fine1 or two ounces of butter1 lard1 or dripping2 but the suet makes the best and lightest crust2 put it on the paste-board1 with eight ounces of flour1 and a salt-spoonful of salt1 mix it well together with your hands1 and then put it all of a heap1 and make a hole in the middle2 break one egg in it1 stir it well together with your finger1 and by degrees infuse as much water as will make it of a stiff paste3 roll it out two or three times1 with the rolling-pin1 and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of apples4 ,it will look neater if boiled in a basin1 well buttered1 than when boiled in a pudding-cloth1 well floured2 boil it an hour and three quarters3 but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan1 with a wine-glassful of water1 and then one hour will boil it4 ,some people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel1 and sweeten it with two ounces of sugar4 ,gooseberries1 currants1 raspberries1 and cherries1 damsons1 and various plums and fruits1 are made into puddings with the same crust directed for apple puddings4 ,apple ,dumplings4--7,no4 #aac47 ,make paste the same as for apple pudding1 divide it into as many pieces as you want dumplings1 peel the apples and core them1 then roll out your paste large enough1 and put in the apples2 close it all round1 and tie them in pudding-cloths very tight2 one hour will boil them3 and when you take them up1 just dip them in cold water1 and put them in a cup the size of the dumpling while you untie them1 and they will turn out without breaking4 ,suet ,pudding or ,dumplings4--7,no4 #aad47 ,chop six ounces of suet very fine3 put it in a basin with six ounces of flour1 two ounces of bread-crumbs1 and a tea-spoonful of salt2 stir it all well together3 beat two eggs on a plate1 add to them six table-spoonfuls of milk1 put it by degrees into the basin1 and stir it all well together2 divide it into six dumplings1 and tie them separate1 previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour4 ,boil them one hour4 ,this is very good the next day fried in a little butter4 ,the above will make a good pudding1 boiled in an earthenware mould1 with the addition of one more egg1 a little more milk1 and two ounces of suet4 ,boil it two hours4 ,n4,b4 ,the most economical way of making suet dumplings1 is to boil them without a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton2 no eggs are then wanted1 and the dumplings are quite as light without3 roll them in flour before you put them into the pot2 add six ounces of currants1 washed and picked1 and you have currant pudding3 or divided into six parts1 currant dumplings2 a little sugar will improve them4 ,cottage ,potato ,pudding or ,cake4--7,no4 #aae47 ,peel1 boil1 and mash1 a couple of pounds of potatoes3 beat them up into a smooth batter1 with about three quarters of a pint of milk1 two ounces of moist sugar1 and two or three beaten eggs4 ,bake it about three quarters of an hour4 ,three ounces of currants or raisins may be added4 ,leave out the milk1 and add three ounces of butter1--it will make a very nice cake4 ,,footnotes3 #cib-99 ,an old gentlewoman1 who lived almost entirely on puddings1 told us1 it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good1 till she made the following rule3--,if the pudding was good1 she let the cook have the remainder of it2 if it was not1 she gave it to her lapdog2 but as soon as this resolution was known1 poor little ,bow-wow seldom got the sweet treat after4 ,,observations ,,on ,,pickles4 ,we are not fond of pickles3 these sponges of vinegar are often very indigestible1 especially in the crisp state in which they are most admired4 ,the ,indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one3 we recommend those who have any regard for their stomach1 yet still wish to indulge their tongue1 instead of eating pickles1 which are really merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice1 c4 to use the flavoured vinegars2 such as burnet 7,no4 #cii71 horseradish 7,no4 #cii9971 tarragon 7,no4 #cif71 mint 7,no4 #cig71 cress 7,nos4 #cig991 #dja1 #djc1 #dje991 #dec1 #deg71 c42 by combinations of these1 a relish may easily be composed1 exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater4 ,the pickle made to preserve cucumbers1 c4 is generally so strongly impregnated with garlic1 mustard1 and spice1 c4 that the original flavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered2 and if the eater shuts his eyes1 his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is munching an onion or a cucumber1 c41 and nothing can be more absurd1 than to pickle plums1 peaches1 apricots1 currants1 grapes1 c4 ,the strongest vinegar must be used for pickling3 it must not be boiled or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated4 ,by parboiling the pickles in brine1 they will be ready in much less time than they are when done in the usual manner1 of soaking them in cold salt and water for six or eight days4 ,when taken out of the hot brine1 let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle4 ,to assist the preservation of pickles1 a portion of salt is added2 and for the same purpose1 and to give flavour1 long pepper1 black pepper1 allspice1 ginger1 cloves1 mace1 garlic1 eschalots1 mustard1 horseradish1 and capsicum4 ,the following is the best method of preparing the pickle1 as cheap as any1 and requires less care than any other way4 ,bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices2 put them into a stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar1 stop the jar closely with a bung1 cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle1 set it on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days1 well shaking it up at least three times in the day2 the pickle should be at least three inches above the pickles4 ,the jar being well closed1 and the infusion being made with a mild heat1 there is no loss by evaporation4 ,to enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe the flavour of the pickle they are immersed in1 previously to pouring it on them1 run a larding-pin through them in several places4 ,the spices1 c4 commonly used1 are those mentioned in the receipt for pickling walnuts2 which is also an excellent savoury sauce for cold meats4 ,the flavour may be varied ad infinitum by adding celery1 cress-seed1 or curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 or by taking for the liquor any of the flavoured vinegars1 c4 we have enumerated above1 and see the receipts between ,nos4 #cie and #dba4 ,pickles should be kept in a dry place1 in unglazed earthenware1 or glass jars1 which are preferable1 as you can1 without opening them1 observe whether they want filling up3 they must be very carefully stopped with well-fitted bungs1 and tied over as closely as possible with a bladder wetted with the pickle2 and if to be preserved a long time1 after that is dry1 it must be dipped in bottle-cement2 see page #abg4 ,when the pickles are all used1 boil up the liquor with a little fresh spice4 ,to walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots3 let it stand till it is quite clear1 and bottle it3 thus you may furnish your table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes1 made dishes1 fish1 c4 at very small cost2 see ,no4 #dci4 ,jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles pickled1 which should be covered with pickle at least two inches above their surface2 the liquor wastes1 and all of the articles pickled1 that are not covered1 are soon spoiled4 ,when they have been done about a week1 open the jars1 and fill them up with pickle4 ,tie a wooden spoon1 full of holes1 round each jar to take them out with4 ,if you wish to have gherkins1 c4 very green1 this may be easily accomplished by keeping them in vinegar1 sufficiently hot1 till they become so4 ,if you wish cauliflowers1 onions1 c4 to be white1 use distilled vinegar for them4 ,to entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acid upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles1 the whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars4 ,n4,b4 ,the maxim of open your mouth1 and shut your eyes1 cannot be better applied than to pickles2 and the only direction we have to record for the improvement of their complexion1 is the joke of ,dr4 ,goldsmith1 ,if their colour does not please you1 send 'em to ,hammersmith1 that's the way to ,turnham ,green4 ,commencing the list with walnuts1 ,i must take this opportunity of impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the due season2 for of all the variety of articles in this department to furnish the well-regulated store-room1 nothing is so precarious1 for frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season1 they become hard and shelled1 particularly if the season is a very hot one2 therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at market2 should they cost a trifle more1 that is nothing compared to the disappointment of finding1 six months hence1 when you go to your pickle-jar1 expecting a fine relish for your chops1 c4 to find the nuts incased in a shell1 which defies both teeth and steel4 ,nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of ,july4 ,garlic1 from ,midsummer to ,michaelmas4 ,eschalots1 ditto4 ,onions1 the various kinds for pickling1 are to be had1 by the middle of ,july1 and for a month after4 ,gherkins are to be had by the middle of ,july1 and for a month after4 ,cucumbers are to be had by the middle of ,july1 and for a month after4 ,melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of ,july1 and for a month after4 ,capsicums1 green1 red1 and yellow1 the end of ,july1 and following month4 ,chilies1 the end of ,july1 and following month4 ,see ,nos4 #djd and #dje991 and ,no4 #djf4 ,love apples1 or tomatas1 end of ,july1 and throughout ,august4 ,see ,no4 #ddc4 ,cauliflower1 for pickling1 ,july and ,august4 ,artichokes1 for pickling1 ,july and ,august4 ,jerusalem artichokes1 for pickling1 ,july and ,august1 and for three months after4 ,radish pods1 for pickling1 ,july4 ,french beans1 for pickling1 ,july4 ,mushrooms1 for pickling and catchup1 ,september4 ,see ,no4 #dci4 ,red cabbage1 ,august4 ,white cabbage1 ,september and ,october4 ,samphire1 ,august4 ,horseradish1 ,november and ,december4 ,walnuts4--7,no4 #aaf47 ,make a brine of salt and water1 in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water2 put the walnuts into this to soak for a week2 or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating1 run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places--this will allow the pickle to penetrate1 and they will be much softer1 and of better flavour1 and ready much sooner than if not perforated3 put them into a stew-pan with such brine1 and give them a gentle simmer2 put them on a sieve to drain2 then lay them on a fish plate1 and let them stand in the air till they turn black--this may take a couple of days2 put them into glass1 or unglazed stone jars2 fill these about three parts with the walnuts1 and fill them up with the following pickle4 ,to each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper1 one of ginger1 same of eschalots1 same of salt1 half an ounce of allspice1 and half a drachm of ,cayenne4 ,put these into a stone jar2 cover it with a bladder1 wetted with pickle1 tie over that some leather1 and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days1 shaking it up three times a day1 and then pour it while hot to the walnuts1 and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle1 leather1 c4 ,gherkins4--7,no4 #aag47 ,get those of about four inches long1 and an inch in diameter1 the crude half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing4 ,put them into 7unglazed7 stone pans2 cover them with a brine of salt and water1 made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water2 cover them down2 set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days till they begin to turn yellow2 then put away the water1 and cover them with hot vinegar2 set them again before the fire2 keep them hot till they become green 7this will take eight or ten days72 then pour off the vinegar1 having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar1 c41 the same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts 7leaving out the eschalots72 cover them with a bung1 bladder1 and leather4 ,read the observations on pickles1 p4 #dhg4 ,obs4--,the vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent salad sauce1 or for cold meats4 ,it is1 in fact1 superlative cucumber vinegar4 ,french ,beans--,nasturtiums1 c4--7,no4 #aah47 ,when young1 and most other small green vegetables1 may be pickled the same way as gherkins4 ,beet ,roots4--7,no4 #aai47 ,boil gently till they are full three parts done 7this will take from an hour and a half to two and a half72 then take them out1 and when a little cooled1 peel them1 and cut them in slices about half an inch thick4 ,have ready a pickle for it1 made by adding to each a quart of vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper1 half an ounce of ginger pounded1 same of salt1 and of horseradish cut in thin slices2 and you may warm it1 if you like1 with a few capsicums1 or a little ,cayenne2 put these ingredients into a jar2 stop it close1 and let them steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire2 then1 when cold1 pour the clear liquor on the beet-root1 which have previously arranged in a jar4 ,red ,cabbage4--7,no4 #abj47 ,get a fine purple cabbage1 take off the outside leaves1 quarter it1 take out the stalk1 shred the leaves into a colander1 sprinkle them with salt1 let them remain till the morrow1 drain them dry1 put them into a jar1 and cover them with the pickle for beet roots4 ,onions4--7,no4 #aba47 ,the small round silver button onions1 about as big as a nutmeg1 make a very nice pickle4 ,take off their top coats1 have ready a stew-pan1 three parts filled with boiling water1 into which put as many onions as will cover the top3 as soon as they look clear1 immediately take them up with a spoon full of holes1 and lay them on a cloth three times folded1 and cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish3 when they are quite dry1 put them into jars1 and cover them with hot pickle1 made by infusing an ounce of horseradish1 same of allspice1 and same of black pepper1 and same of salt1 in a quart of best white-wine vinegar1 in a stone jar1 on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days1 keeping it well closed2 when cold1 bung them down tight1 and cover them with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather4 ,cauliflowers or ,broccoli4--7,no4 #abb47 ,choose those that are hard1 yet sufficiently ripe1 cut away the leaves and stalks4 ,set on a stew-pan half full of water1 salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water2 throw in the cauliflower1 and let it heat gradually2 when it boils take it up with a spoon full of holes1 and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire1 for twenty-four hours at least2 when quite dry1 put them1 piece by piece1 into jars or glass tie-overs1 and cover them with the pickle we have directed for beet roots1 or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the curry powder 7,no4 #dee7 for three days in a quart of vinegar by the side of the fire4 ,nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above4 ,indian or mixed ,pickles--,mango or ,piccalilli4--7,no4 #abc47 ,the flavouring ingredients of ,indian pickles are a compound of curry powder1 with a large proportion of mustard and garlic4 ,the following will be found something like the real mango pickle1 especially if the garlic be used plentifully4 ,to each gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder 7,no4 #dee71 same of flour of mustard 7some rub these together1 with half a pint of salad oil71 three of ginger bruised1 and two of turmeric1 half a pound 7when skinned7 of eschalots slightly baked in a ,dutch oven1 two ounces of garlic prepared in like manner1 a quarter of a pound of salt1 and two drachms of ,cayenne pepper4 ,put these ingredients into a stone jar2 cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle1 and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days1 shaking it up three times a day2 it will then be ready to receive gherkins1 sliced cucumbers1 sliced onions1 button onions1 cauliflowers1 celery1 broccoli1 ,french beans1 nasturtiums1 capsicums1 and small green melons4 ,the latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon1 with which take out all the seeds2 then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg2 dry them1 and fill them with mustard-seed1 and two cloves of garlic1 and bind the melon round with packthread4 ,large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner4 ,green peaches make the best imitation of the ,indian mango4 ,the other articles are to be separately parboiled 7excepting the capsicums7 in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg2 taken out and drained1 and spread out1 and thoroughly dried in the sun1 on a stove1 or before a fire1 for a couple of days1 and then put into the pickle4 ,any thing may be put into this pickle1 except red cabbage and walnuts4 ,it will keep several years4 ,obs4--,to the ,indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of mustard-seed oil1 which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our salad sauces4 ,,housekeepers' ,,manual4 ,,various ,,useful ,,family ,,receipts4 ,to prevent ,beer becoming ,flat after it is drawn4 ,put a piece of toasted bread into it1 and it will preserve the spirit for twelve hours after1 in a very considerable degree4 ,to clean ,plate4 ,first4--,take care that your plate is quite free from grease4 ,second4--,take some whitening mixed with water1 and a sponge1 rub it well on the plate1 which will take the tarnish off2 if it is very bad1 repeat the whitening and water several times1 making use of a brush1 not too hard1 to clean the intricate parts4 ,third4--,take some rouge-powder1 mix it with water to about the thickness of cream1 and with a small piece of leather 7which should be kept for that purpose only7 apply the rouge1 which1 with the addition of a little ,elbow ,grease1 will1 in a short time1 produce a most beautiful polish4 ,n4,b4--,the rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers4 ,obs4--,the above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their plate1 and was given to me by a respectable tradesman4 ,the common ,method of cleaning ,plate4 ,first wash it well with soap and warm water2 when perfectly dry1 mix together a little whitening and sweet oil1 so as to make a soft paste2 then take a piece of flannel1 rub it on the plate2 then with a leather1 and plenty of dry whitening1 rub it clean off again2 then1 with a clean leather and a brush1 finish it4 ,varnish for ,oil ,paintings4 ,according to the number of your pictures1 take the whites of the same number of eggs1 and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy1 the size of a hazel nut1 dissolved1 and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy2 beat the whites of your eggs to a froth1 and let it settle2 take the clear1 put it to your brandy and sugar1 mix them well together1 and varnish over your pictures with it4 ,this is much better than any other varnish1 as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again4 ,method of cleaning ,paper-,hangings4 ,cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf1 two days old2 it must neither be newer nor staler4 ,with one of these pieces1 after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned1 by the means of a good pair of bellows1 begin at the top of the room1 holding the crust in the hand1 and wiping lightly downward with the crumb1 about half a yard at each stroke1 till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round4 ,then go round again1 with the like sweeping stroke downwards1 always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended1 till the bottom be finished4 ,this operation1 if carefully performed1 will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new4 ,great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard1 nor to attempt cleaning it the cross1 or horizontal way4 ,the dirty part of the bread1 too1 must be each time cut away1 and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become necessary4 ,to make ,,wooden ,stairs have the appearance of ,,stone4 ,paint the stairs1 step by step1 with white paint1 mixed with strong drying oil4 ,strew it thick with silver sand4 ,it ought to be thoroughly dry next morning1 when the loose sand is to be swept off4 ,the painting and sanding is to be repeated1 and when dry1 the surface is to be done over with pipe-clay1 whiting1 and water2 which may be boiled in an old saucepan1 and laid on with a bit of flannel1 not too thick1 otherwise it will be apt to scale off4 ,a penny cake of pipe-clay1 which must be scraped1 is the common proportion to half a lump of whiting4 ,the pipe-clay and whiting is generally2 applied once a week1 but that might be done only as occasion requires4 ,french ,polish4 ,take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic2 pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully1 and pound them in a mortar quite fine2 put them into a bottle1 and add to them a quartern 7old measure7 of strong spirit of wine2 cork it down and put it in a warm place2 shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved1 which will be in about twenty-four hours4 ,before using it1 be careful to ascertain that no grease is on the furniture1 as grease would prevent its receiving the polish4 ,if the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees'-wax or oil1 it must be got off by scraping1 which is the best way1 but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it1 because if you are not very careful1 you may scratch the surface1 and create more expense than a workman would charge to do it properly at first4 ,or it may be done by scouring well with sand and water1 and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass paper1 being careful to do it with the grain of the wood4 ,to apply the polish1 you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted1 and tied round quite tight1 and left even at one end1 which should be covered with a piece of fine linen cloth2 then pour a little of the polish on the furniture1 and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood1 and begins to look quite smooth2 then take a soft fine cloth1 or what is better1 an old silk handkerchief1 and keep rubbing lightly until the polish is complete1 which will take two or three hours4 ,it will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire4 ,if it does not look so smooth and clear as it should1 a little sweet oil rubbed lightly over1 and cleaned off directly1 will greatly heighten it4 ,if any part of the furniture has carving about it1 where it will be impossible to polish1 it must be done with mastic varnish1 and a camel's hair brush1 after the rest is finished4 ,when the polish begins to look dull1 it may be recovered with a little spirit of wine4 ,polish for ,dining ,tables1 ,is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil1 thus3--put a little in the middle of a table1 and then with a piece of linen 7never use woollen7 cloth rub it well all over the table2 then take another piece of linen1 and rub it for ten minutes1 then rub it till quite dry with another cloth4 ,this must be done every day for several months1 when you will find your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre1 unattainable by any other means1 and equal to the finest ,french polish2 and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only1 the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it3 and when once this polish is produced1 it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week1 to preserve it in the highest perfection2 which never fails to please your employers2 and remember1 that to please others is always the surest way to profit yourself4 ,if the appearance must be more immediately produced1 take some ,,furniture ,,paste4 ,to prevent disagreeable ,smells from ,sinks1 c4 ,the disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water1 and the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens1 drains1 c41 are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second table1 but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid fevers1 c4 c4 ,it cannot be too generally known1 that a cheap and simple apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water1 c4 from sinks1 which at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from thence1 or from any drain connected therewith4 ,this is known by the name of ,stink ,trap1 and costs about five shillings4 ,no kitchen sink should be without it4 ,to prevent ,moths4 ,in the month of ,april beat your fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick1 then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too hard1 and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps2 then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed4 ,when the furs are wanted for use1 beat them well as before1 and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air1 which will take away the smell of the camphor4 ,if the fur has long hair1 as bear or fox1 add to the camphor an equal quantity of black pepper in powder4 ,paste4 ,to make common paste1 mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold water1 stir it well together1 and add two more table-spoonfuls of water2 set it over the fire and give it a boil1 stirring it all the time1 or it will burn at the bottom of the saucepan4 ,,observations ,,on ,,carving4 ',have you learned to carve8' for it is ridiculous not to carve well4 ,a man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve1 may as well tell you that he cannot feed himself2 it is both as necessary and as easy4--,lord ,,chesterfield',s #baath ,letter4 ,next to giving a good dinner1 is treating our friends with hospitality and attention1 and this attention is what young people have to learn4 ,experience will teach them in time1 but till they acquire it1 they will appear ungraceful and awkward4 ,although the art of carving is one of the most necessary accomplishments of a gentleman1 it is little known but to those who have long been accustomed to it2 a more useful or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of the duties of the table4 ,young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet1 beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices2 and cut up things not only carelessly1 but wastefully1 until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers' and poulterers' bills on their own account4 ,young housekeepers1 unaccustomed to carving1 will1 with the help of the following instructions1 soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance2 taking care also to observe1 as occasion may offer1 the manner in which a skilful operator sets about his task1 when a joint or fowl is placed before him4 ,it has been said1 that you may judge of a person's character by his handwriting2 you may judge of his conscience by his carving4 ,fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair writing3 let me see how a gentleman carves at another person's table1 especially how he helps himself1 and ,i will presently tell you how far he is of ,pope's opinion1 that ,true self-love and social are the same4 ,the selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and more disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for himself1 especially when not at his own cost4 ,some keen observer of human nature has said1 ,would you know a man's real disposition1 ask him to dinner1 and give him plenty to drink4 ,the ,oracle says1 invite the gentleman to dinner1 certainly1 and set him to carving4 ,the gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome1 and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality1 may calculate with ,cockerial correctness1 that the easier he appears to be pleased1 the oftener he will be invited4 ,instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess1 that the prime tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate1 he must receive1 7if not with pleasure or even content17 with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness1 whatever is presented to him2 and let him not forget to praise the cook 7no matter whether he be pleased with her performance or not71 and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as praise to the mistress4 ,if he does not like his fare1 he may console himself with the reflection1 that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again4 ,mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion1 will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it1 notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy4 ,if he like it ever so little1 he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner2 and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal1 and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of 7that best sauce7 good appetite1 and an unrestrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents4 ,the following extract from that rare book1 ,,giles ,,rose',s ,school for the ,officers of the ,mouth1 #afmo4 #afhd1 shows that the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present4 ,,le ,,grand ,,escuver ,,tranchant1 or the ,great ,master ,carver4 ,the exercise of a master carver is more noble and commendable1 it may be1 than every one will imagine2 for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the world1 this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking4 ,never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver1 or place him within reach of any principal dish4 ,i shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child3 the first dish that ,master ,johnny mangled1 was three mackerel2 he cut off the upper side of each fish3 next came a couple of fowls2 in taking off the wings of which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled every other part1 that when they were brought for luncheon the following day1 they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats1 rather than having been carved by a rational creature4 ,when the master of the family1 who was extremely near-sighted1 sat down to his nooning1 in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a ,nice bit of chicken ,for his own private picking1 no sooner had he put on his specs1 and begun to focus his fowl1 than he suddenly started up1 rang for the cook1 and after having vociferated at her carelessness1 and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard1 till his appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied1 he paused for her apology3 the guardian genius of the pantry1 to his extreme astonishment1 informed him1 that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance which had so shocked him1 was erroneous3 such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the epicurism of a four-legged brute1 and that the fowls were exactly in the same state they came from the table1 and that young ,master ,johnny had cut them up himself4 ,those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table4 ,if they cut bread1 meat1 cheese1 c4 fairly1 it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists1 who appear to have less consideration for their domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs4 ,a prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal division1 and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among1 and considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess4 ,if you have a bird1 or other delicacy at table1 which cannot be apportioned out to all as you wish1 when cut up1 let it be handed round by a servant2 modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small portion1 and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without disrespect4 ,those chop-house cormorants who ,critique your wine1 and analyze your meat1 ,yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat1 are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people2 for1 under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable1 and killingly agreeable to the guests1 they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties#dab-99 which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out1 and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet2 the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast3 such gentry are the terror of all good housewives2 to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints1 that a lady's dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward2 but which1 if managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper1 would furnish a decent dinner for a large family4 ,the man of manners picks not the best1 but rather takes the worst out of the dish1 and gets of every thing 7unless it be forced upon him7 always the most indifferent fare by this civility1 the best remains for others2 which being a compliment to all that are present1 every body will be pleased with it2 the more they love themselves1 the more they are forced to approve of his behaviour1 and gratitude stepping in1 they are obliged1 almost whether they will or not1 to think favourably of him4 ,after this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in2 and if he gets nothing else by it1 the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him1 is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self-denial1 and overpays self-love1 with interest1 the loss it sustained in his complaisance to others4 ,if there are seven or eight apples1 or peaches1 among people of ceremony1 that are pretty nearly equal1 he who is prevailed on to choose first1 will take that which1 if there be any considerable difference1 a child would know to be the worst4 ,this he does to insinuate1 that he looks upon those he is with to be of superior merit2 and that there is not one whom he does not love better than himself4 ,custom and general practice make this modish deceit familiar to us1 without being shocked at the absurdity of it4 ,if people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts1 and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within1 till they were three or four and forty1 it would be impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion2 and yet it is certain1 that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one another1 than we could be otherwise4 ,the master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as long as any of the company2 and should1 accordingly1 help themselves in a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners without being particularly observed4 ,it belongs to the master and mistress1 and to no one else1 to desire their guests to eat1 and1 indeed1 carving belongs to nobody but the master and mistress1 and those whom they think fit to desire1 who are to deliver what they cut to the master or mistress1 to be by them distributed at their pleasure4 ,a seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him a command of the table1 as the act of rising to perform this duty is considered ungraceful4 ,the carving-knife should be light and sharp2 and it should be firmly grasped2 although in using it1 strength is not as essential as skill1 particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such joints as the neck1 loin1 and breast of veal or of mutton4 ,the dish should not be far from the carver2 for when it is too distant1 by occasioning the arms to be too much extended1 it gives an awkward appearance to the person1 and renders the task more difficult4 ,in carving fish1 care should be taken not to break the flakes1 and this is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel1 which not being sharp1 divides it better than a steel knife4 ,examine this little drawing1 and you will see how a cod's head and shoulders should be carved4 ,the head and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,the first piece may be taken off in the direction of a b1 by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish1 and the rest in successive order4 ,a small part of the sound should be given with each slice1 and will be found close to the back-bone1 by raising the thin flap d4 ,it is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than the other parts of the fish4 ,almost every part of a cod's head is considered good2 the palate1 the tongue1 the jelly1 and firm parts1 e e1 upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head1 are considered as delicate eating by many persons4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,a boiled fowl has the legs bent inward 7see fig4 #b71 and fastened to the sides by a skewer1 which is removed before the fowl is sent to table4 ,a roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off1 as in the boiled fowl2 but after they have been properly scraped and washed1 they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast4 ,a boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner4 ,the wings are taken off in the direction of a to b 7fig4 #b74 ,your knife must divide the joint1 but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork1 draw the wings towards the legs1 and you will find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your knife4 ,slip your knife between the leg and the body1 and cut to the bone1 then with the fork turn the leg back1 and1 if the fowl be not a very old one1 the joints will give way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,after the four quarters are thus removed1 enter the knife at the breast1 in the direction c d 7fig4 #c71 and you will separate the merrythought from the breast-bone2 and by placing your knife under it1 lift it up1 pressing it backward on the dish1 and you will easily remove that bone4 ,the collar-bones1 e e1 lie on each side the merrythought1 and are to be lifted up at the broad end1 by the knife1 and forced towards the breast-bone1 till the part which is fastened to it breaks off4 ,the breast is next to be separated from the carcass1 by cutting through the ribs on each side1 from one end of the fowl to the other4 ,the back is then laid upward1 and the knife passed firmly across it1 near the middle1 while the fork lifts up the other end4 ,the side bone are lastly to be separated2 to do which turn the back from you1 and on each side the back-bone1 in the direction of g g 7fig4 #d71 you will find a joint1 which you must separate1 and the cutting up of the fowl will be complete4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner2 in the latter1 however1 the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast1 unless the birds are very large4 ,turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone1 and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone1 many more slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the wings1 although ,i do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter method4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,pigeons 7see fig4 #f7 are either cut from the neck to a1 which is the fairest way1 or from b to c1 which is now the most fashionable mode2 and the lower part is esteemed the best4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,there are two ways of carving a hare4 ,when it is young1 the knife may be entered near the shoulder at a 7see fig4 #g71 and cut down to b1 on each side of the backbone2 and thus the hare will be divided into three parts4 ,the back is to be again divided into four parts1 where the dotted lines are in the cut3 these and the legs are considered the best parts1 though the shoulders are preferred by some1 and are to be taken off in the direction of c d e4 ,the pieces should be laid neatly on the plates1 as they are separated1 and each plate served with stuffing and gravy4 ,when the hare is old1 it is better not to attempt the division down the back1 which would require much strength2 but the legs should be separated from the body at f1 and then the meat cut off from each side1 and divided into moderate sized pieces4 ,if the brains and ears are required1 cut off the head1 and put your knife between the upper and lower jaw1 and divide them1 which will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish3 then force the point of your knife into the centre1 and having cut the head into two parts1 distribute the brains with the ears to those who like them4 ,rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare1 except that the back is divided only into two pieces1 which1 with the legs1 are considered the most delicate parts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,a ham is generally cut in the direction of a to b1 7fig4 #h7 down to the bone1 and through the prime part of the ham4 ,another way is to cut a small hole at c1 and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces out of it2 this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly1 and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,a leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint1 but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly1 which should be observed4 ,the first slice should be taken out at a 7fig4 #i71 between the knuckle b and the thick end2 and the second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction1 until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at c2 then turn it up1 and take the remaining slices from the back1 in a longitudinal direction4 ,when the leg is rather lean1 help some fat from the broad end with each slice4 ,the best and most juicy slices are toward the broad end3 but some persons prefer the knuckle3 and where economy is an object1 the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot1 as it becomes very dry when cold4 ,if the joint is to be brought again to table1 it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if it be helped1 altogether1 from the knuckle end1 when it is hot4 ,this direction may appear trifling2 but a good economist knows the importance of carving1 when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a second time to table4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,a haunch of venison 7fig4 #aj7 should be cut down to the bone in the direction of the line a b c1 by which means the gravy is allowed to flow out3 then the carver1 turning the broad end of the haunch toward him1 should cut in deep from b to d4 ,he then cuts thin slices in the same direction1 taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due proportion of fat1 which is1 by lovers of venison1 highly prized3 there is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of b d than on the other side4 ,a haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,a saddle of mutton 7fig4 #aa7 is cut from the tail to the end on each side the back-bone1 in the direction of the lines a b1 continuing downward to the edge c1 until it become too fat4 ,the slices should be cut thin1 and if the joint be a large one1 they may be divided into two parts4 ,the fat will be found on the sides4 ,a sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table4 ,the ribs may be divided into two parts as well as the joints4 ,the ribs are considered the finest part1 and the neck end under the shoulder4 ,part of the kidneys should be added to each helping4 ,a shoulder of mutton1 if properly roasted1 is supposed to yield many choice pieces1 but this depends very much upon the carver4 ,the first cut should be in the direction c b 7fig4 #ab72 and1 after taking a few slices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut1 some good slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade1 in the direction c d4 ,when the party is numerous1 slices may be taken from the under side2 and it is on this side1 under the edge e1 that the fat is found4#dai-99 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,buttock of ,beef ,is always boiled1 and requires no print to point out how it should be carved4 ,a thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock1 that your friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it4 ,the outside thus cut off1 thin slices may then be cut from the top2 but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day1 it should always be cut handsome and even4 ,when a slice all round would be considered too much1 the half1 or a third1 may be given with a thin slice of fat4 ,on one side there is a part whiter than ordinary1 by some called the white muscle4 ,in some places1 a buttock is generally divided1 and this white part sold separate1 as a delicacy2 but it is by no means so1 the meat being coarse and dry2 whereas the darker-coloured parts1 though apparently of a coarser grain1 are of a looser texture1 more tender1 fuller of gravy1 and better flavoured2 and men of distinguishing palates ever prefer them4 ,,footnotes3 #dab-99 ,he who greedily grapples for the prime parts1 exhibits indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose4 #dai-99 ,another way of carving a shoulder of mutton1 and one which many persons prefer1 is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beginning on the outside4 ,see the lines f and g4 ,,index4 ,the ,figures in the body of the ,index refer to the ,number of the ,receipts2 those in the column1 under the word ,page1 to where the ,receipts are to be found2 and those preceded by ,ap41 to the ,receipts in the ,appendix4 ,page ,,acid of lemon1 artificial1 #djg99 #bgd ,accum on ,adulterations1 quoted1 note to #dcc #bhj ,an alderman in chains1 #eg #ace ,a-la-mode beef1 or veal1 or ,english turtle1 #ejb #cab ,allspice1 essence of1 #dab #bge ---- tincture of1 #dac ib4 ---- ,sir ,h4 ,sloane on1 note #ib ,almond custards 7,ap4 #ed47 #cge ,anchovy sauce1 #bgj #bcb ---- essence1 #dcc #bgi ---- toast1 #egc #ced ---- butter1 #dcd #bhb ---- paste1 ---- powder1 #dce ib4 ---- to keep them well1 ,obs4 to #bgj #bcc ,apicius1 his sauce for boiled chicken #ce ,appetite1 good1 why the best sauce #eb ---- to refresh #ch ,appert1 his art of preserving vegetables1 note #afd ,apple pie 7,ap4 #cb47 #cfi ---- pudding1 boiled 7,ap4 #aab47 #cig ---- dumplings1 ditto 7,ap4 #aac47 ib4 ---- tart1 creamed 7,ap4 #cc47 #cfi ---- sauce1 #cjd #bdb ,apples1 to dry 7,ap4 #hc47 #chd ,apricot jam 7,ap4 #ic47 #chg ,artichokes1 #acf #aff ---- ,jerusalem1 #aag #afj ,asparagus1 #abc #afa ---- soup1 #bbb #bjf ,arrack1 to imitate1 #dhj #bii ,arbuthnot1 ,dr41 quoted1 ,preface viii4 ,abernethy1 ,mr41 quoted1 note #bj ,bacon1 #ac #aag ---- slices of1 #ebf #cbd ---- relishing rashers of1 #ebg ib4 ---- sparerib1 to roast #acb ,bain-,marie1 note to #dhe and #ebi99 #cjd4 #cbf ,baking #gb ,baked custard 7,ap4 #eb47 #cge ---- pears 7,ap4 #hb47 #chd ,barley water1 #efe #cej ---- broth1 #bjd #aii ---- ----1 to make a gallon for a groat #baj ---- sugar 7,ap4 #ij47 #chf ---- drops 7,ap4 #ia47 ib4 ,basil1 when to dry #bia ---- vinegar1 or wine1 #cig #bfi ---- sauce1 #bfd #bca ,batter pudding 7,ap4 #aaa47 #cig ,beans1 ,french1 #acc #afd ,beauty #ea ,bechamel1 #cfd #beg ,beef bouilli1 #e4 #bch4 #dic #aji4 #bab4 #cjh ---- how nutritive and economical1 #e #aji ---- to salt1 #f #aaa ---- savoury1 #dif #caj ---- a round of1 salted1 to boil1 #g #aac ---- what the outside slices are good for1 ,n4 ,b4 to #g ib4 ---- ,h-,bone1 #h ib4 ---- ribs1 and rolled1 #i #aad ---- baron of #cd ---- sirloin1 roasted1 #ai #abb ---- proper way to carve1 in note to #ai #abc ---- as mock hare1 #ff99 #ada ---- ribs1 roasted1 #bj #abc ---- ditto1 boned and rolled1 #ba #abd ---- steaks1 to fry1 #he #adh ---- steak pudding 7,ap4 #bd47 #cfg ---- season for1 see note to #id #aea ---- with onions1 #hf #adh ---- to broil1 #id #aea ---- the superlative steak ib4 ---- ,macbeth's receipt1 and le vritable bif-teck de ,beauvilliers1 ,n4 ,b4 to #id #aeb ---- to stew1 #ejj #caa ---- with onion gravy1 #eja #cab ---- broth1 #ahe #aic ---- broth for glaze1 or portable soup or sauce1 #beb #bbc ---- gravy1 #ahf #aid ---- strong gravy1 #ahh ib4 ---- cullis1 #ahi #aie ---- for poultry1 c4 #cbi #bdi ---- shin of1 soup1 #aic #aif ---- tea1 #efc #cdi ---- to hash1 #dhf #cjd ---- shin1 stewed1 #dic #cjh ---- brisket1 stewed1 #did #caj ---- haricot1 #die ib4 ---- ,hunter's savoury1 baked or stewed1 #dif ib4 ---- -la-mode1 or ,english turtle1 #ejb #cab ---- to pot1 #ejc #cad ---- bubble and squeak1 #eje #caf ---- hashed1 and bones broiled1 #ejf #cag ---- cold1 broiled1 c4 #dhg #cjd ,beer1 to recover when hard1 #dfh #bie ---- to bottle1 #dfh ib4 ---- cup1 #dfd #bid ,beet roots1 #abg #afb ---- ---- to pickle 7,ap4 #aai47 #djb ,biscuit drops 7,ap4 #fh47 #chj ,bishop1 essence of1 #dab #bge ,birch1 his excellent mock turtle1 note under #bdg #bai ,black cock1 #ga #add ,blancmange 7,ap4 #df47 #cgc ,,boiling #ff ,boiled custard 7,ap4 #ec47 #cge ,bouillon de sant1 #aif #aig ,bonne bouche for geese1 pork1 c4 #cda #bea ,brandy1 how to obtain genuine ,cognac #bif ,,bread1 to make 7,ap4 #ajj47 #cij ---- sauce1 #cba #bdf ---- sippets1 fried1 #cai ib4 ---- crumbs1 do4 #cbj ib4 ---- pudding1 #eef #cdd ,broccoli1 #abf #afb ---- pickled1 7,ap4 #abb47 #djc ,bride1 or wedding cake 7,ap4 #ef47 #cgf ,brill1 #adc #afi ,brains are sadly dependent on the bowels #bj ---- ,dr4 ,cadogan's obs4 thereon1 note #ba ,brain balls #bff ,,broiling1 see the #dth chapter of ,rudiments of ,cookery #hb ,brose1 ,scotch1 #bje99 #bja ,brunswick tourte 7,ap4 #de47 #cgc ,,broth1 see the #gth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery #hi ---- black #ce ---- of fragments #ed ---- beef1 #ahe #aic ---- to clarify1 #beb99 #bbg ---- mutton1 #aid #aif ---- mock ditto1 #aie #aig ---- with cutlets1 #dij #cjg ---- ,scotch barley1 #bjd #aii ---- for sick1 #efd #cej ,browning1 to colour soup and sauce1 c4 #cbb #bdf ,bill of fare for a week #ef ,buns1 plain 7,ap4 #gg47 #chb ---- cross 7,ap4 #gh47 #chc ---- seed 7,ap4 #gi47 ib4 ---- plum 7,ap4 #hj47 ib4 ---- ,bath 7,ap4 #fe47 #cgi ,burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber1 #cii #bgj ---- ---- sauce1 #bfd #bca ,burgoo1 ,scotch1 #egb99 #cec ,butler's directions for drying herbs1 #dfa #bij ---- ---- to market for vegetables #cei ,butler1 ,obs4 on the business of a note #ci ,,butter1 best manner of melting #bbh ---- to recover when oiled #bbi ---- clarified1 #bei #bcj ---- burnt1 #bfj ib4 ---- oiled1 #bfj99 ib4 ,,catholic ,,families1 cookery for1 #aeh4 #bbd #agh4 #bjg ,cabbage1 #aah #afj ---- boiled and fried1 or bubble and squeak1 #aai4 #eje #afj4 #caf ,cakes1 common seed 7,ap4 #ei47 #cgg ---- rich1 yest 7,ap4 #fj47 #cgh ---- queen1 or heart 7,ap4 #fa47 ib4 ---- ,shrewsbury 7,ap4 #fc47 ib4 ---- ,banbury 7,ap4 #fd47 #cgi ---- ,savoy1 or sponge 7,ap4 #fg47 #chj ---- ,ratafia 7,ap4 #ga47 #cha ---- almond sponge 7,ap4 #gb47 ib4 ---- diet bread 7,ap4 #gd47 ib4 ---- ,derby1 or short 7,ap4 #hg47 #che ---- ,yorkshire 7,ap4 #ajd47 #cia ,calf1 a fatted1 preferred to a starved turtle1 #bdg #bba ----'s head to boil1 #aj #aad ---- ---- to hash1 #aj #aae ---- ---- ragot1 #ebj #cba ---- ---- mock turtle1 #bdg #bai ---- feet jelly1 #dha #bii ,camp vinegar1 #djc #bga ,carp1 stewed1 #aeh #agg ,carrots1 #abi #afc ---- soup1 #bab #bja ,carving1 best rule for #dc ---- ancient terms of1 note ib4 ,catsup of mushrooms1 #dci #bhc ---- double ditto1 or dog-sup #bhd ---- of walnuts1 #dch #bhb ---- of oysters1 #dda #bhe ---- of cockles1 #ddb ib4 ---- of cucumbers1 #cii #bgj ---- pudding1 #ddf #bhe ,caper sauce1 #bgd #bcc ---- ---- mock1 #bge ib4 ,capon1 to roast1 #eh #acf ,capillaire1 #dgf #big ,caramel1 to boil sugar to1 7,ap4 #he47 #che ,cauliflower1 #abe #afb ---- pickled 7,app4 #abb47 #djc ,caudle1 #egb #cec ,cautions to carvers #dd ,cayenne1 how to make1 #djd #bgb ---- essence of1 #dje #bgc ,celery soup1 #bad #bjb ---- sauce1 #bhi1 #bij #bch ---- seed1 substitute for celery1 note #ib ---- essence1 #dji #bge ,chantilly basket 7,ap4 #ea47 #cge ,cheap soup1 #bbi #bjh ,cheese and toast1 #ech991 #eci #ccj ---- toasted1 #edj #cca ---- buttered ditto1 #eda ib4 ---- pounded or potted1 #edb ib4 ,cheesecakes 7,ap4 #dj47 #cga ---- lemon1 ditto 7,ap4 #da47 #cgb ---- orange1 ditto 7,ap4 #db47 ib4 ---- almond1 ditto 7,ap4 #dc47 ib4 ,cherries1 dried 7,ap4 #ie47 #chg ,chervil sauce1 #bfd #bca ,chili vinegar1 #dje99 #bgc ---- wine1 #djf ib4 ,chicken4 ,see ,fowl4 ---- pie 7,ap4 #af47 #cfd ---- and ham patties 7,ap4 #bi47 #cfh ,chops1 mutton1 pork1 beef1 to broil1 #id #aea ---- to fry1 #he #adh ---- to stew1 #dij #cjg ---- relish for1 #dbc #bgh ---- sauce for1 #cef #bee ,cinnamon1 essence of1 #daf #bgf ---- tincture of1 #daf99 ib4 ,claret1 best wine for sauces1 c4 #ie ,clarified syrup1 #dge #big ,clarify broth1 to1 #beb99 #bbg ,clove and mace1 essence of1 #dad #bgf ---- ---- ---- tincture of1 #dae ib4 ,cockle catchup1 #ddb #bhe ,cod1 boiled1 #adi #agb ---- the tail filleted1 note under #adi ib4 ---- slices boiled1 #aea #agd ---- skull stewed1 #aeh #agg ---- shaved1 and sold for whitings1 ,obs4 to #aec #age ,cold meat1 to broil with poached eggs1 #dhg #cjd ---- ditto1 to warm1 the best way #ed ---- fish #ec ---- ---- sauce for1 #dec1 #cei1 and #cjg #bhg1 #bee1 #bdc ---- veal1 an excellent dish of1 #eab #cai ---- fowl1 ditto1 #ecc #cbh ,colouring for soup and sauce1 #cbb #bdf ---- a frequent cause of adulteration1 #cbb #bdg ,committee of taste #ag ,consomm1 #beb #bbc ,coffee1 to make #cdj ,cooks1 friendly advice to #df ---- hints to #ec ---- ditto1 when they have a very large dinner #fb ,cooks1 cause of the scarcity of good ones #caj ---- deserve good wages #bc ---- a manor given to one by ,william the ,conqueror #bb ---- ,obs4 concerning their health1 note #bf ,cook-teaser1 where not to put him #dd ,cooking animals1 dine only once a month1 note #ag ,cookery1 ,descartes's observations on #ai ---- ,dr4 ,johnson's ditto #bj ---- theory of1 note ib4 ---- importance of #ba ---- ,dr4 ,stark vii4 ---- the analeptic part of physic #ai ---- ,dr4 ,mandeville viii4 ---- ,arbuthnot ib4 ---- ,parmentier x4 ---- ,sylvester's ,obs4 on1 note #bj ---- best books on1 note ib4 ---- theory of the processes of1 from the ,encyclopdia ,brit4 note ib4 ---- opinion of a cook on books of #cb ,coquus ,magnus1 or ,master ,kitchener #bb ,coullis1 or thickened gravy1 #ahi #aie ,coup d'aprs #id ,crab1 to boil1 #agg #ahh ,crawfish soup1 #bce #baa ---- ditto1 pounded alive1 recommended by ,mons4 ,clermont1 #bce ib4 ,cream1 clouted1 #chh #bfg ,cranberry tart 7,ap4 #cg47 #cgj ,croquante of paste 7,ap4 #hf47 #che ,cottage potato pudding 7,ap4 #aae47 #cih ,crisp parsley1 #cah #bde ,currant jelly1 #dgi99 #bih ,curry powder1 #dee #bhg ---- soup1 #bdi #bbb ---- sauce1 #cdh #bed ---- balls1 #chb #bff ---- to dress1 #dig #caa ,curaoa1 how to make1 #dgd #bif ,custard pudding #cdg ,cider cup1 #dfe #bid ,culinary curiosities #cb ,crane #cd ,curlews ib4 ,cat in gely ib4 ,corks #ajf ,cement for sealing bottles ib4 ,caw-caw bones1 ,n4,b4 #a #ajh ,cow heel1 to dress1 #ah99 #abb ,cress sauce1 #bfd #bca ---- vinegar1 #cig99 #bfi ,cucumber1 stewed1 #ace #afe ---- vinegar1 #cii #bgj ---- to preserve 7,ap4 #ih47 #chi ,carp1 to stew1 #aeh #agg ,charity1 the greatest #bd ,crumpets 7,ap4 #ajc47 #cia ,devil1 #ech #cbi ---- his venison #cc ---- sauce for #bee ---- biscuit1 #egd #ced ,damson cheese 7,ap4 #hi47 #chf ,digestion1 how important #ai ,dripping pan #gf ,dripping1 to clarify1 #hc #adf ---- ,mrs4 ,melroe and ,dr4 ,stark's ,obs4 on1 #hc #adg ---- soup #baj ,duck1 to roast1 #fa #aci ---- bonne bouche for1 #cda #bea ---- to hash1 #ecj #cbf ---- cold1 to warm1 #ece #cbi ---- wild1 to roast1 #gd #add ,dutch salad1 ,obs4 to #cgb #bfj ,dinner1 seven chances against its being properly dressed1 note #bb ---- hints for preparing a large1 p4 #fb1 #fc2 a good one for #e;d41 #bjd #aii ---- invitation to #cf ---- importance of punctuality1 the only act which cannot be postponed #cg ---- arrangements of guests at #dj ---- rules for behaviour at1 from the ,accomplished ,lady's ,delight1 note #bi ---- hints for providing #ch ---- ,obs4 on second courses1 c4 ib4 ---- punishment for not being punctual at #db ---- ,boileau's ,obs4 on ib4 ---- ,hints to those who dine out #dd ,edge bone of beef1 see ,h-bone1 #h #aac ---- ---- ways of spelling #aad ,education of a cook's tongue #eb ,eels1 stewed1 ,wiggy's way1 #afd #aha ---- pickled1 #afa #ahj ---- fried1 #afe #ahb ---- pie 7,ap4 #bb47 #cff ---- spitchocked1 #aff #ahb ---- soup1 #bbe #bjg ,eggs1 to preserve for twelve months1 see ,n4,b4 to #edg #cch ---- sauce1 #bfg #bcb ---- fried with bacon1 #ede #ccf ---- ragot1 #ede99 #ccg ---- with minced bacon1 #edi #cci ---- poached1 #edf #ccg ---- ditto1 with minced ham1 #edh #cch ---- boiled in the shell1 #edg ib4 ---- ditto1 for a salad1 #cgb #bfj ---- various ways of dressing egg and ham patties 7,ap4 #hh47 #chf ,epictetus1 a relish for1 #bg #abe ,eschalot sauce1 #bid #bci ---- vinegar1 #dja #bga ---- wine1 #djb ib4 ,essence of turtle1 #cdc #beb ,essence of ham1 #cea #bed ---- where to buy it1 #cea ib4 ---- of mushrooms1 #ddj #bhe ---- of oysters1 #dda ib4 ---- of anchovy1 #dcc #bhj ---- of ,cayenne1 #dje #bgc ---- lemon peel1 #djg ib4 ---- ditto1 #djh #bgd ---- of celery1 #dji #bge ---- ginger1 #daa ib4 ---- allspice1 #dab ib4 ---- clove1 #dad #bgf ---- mace1 #dad ib4 ---- cinnamon1 #daf ib4 ---- marjoram1 #dag #bgg ---- sweet herbs1 #dag99 ib4 ---- soup herbs1 #dbj ib4 ---- eschalot1 #djb #bga ---- soup herbs and savoury spice1 #dbb #bgg ,epicure1 the editor's definition of note #ag ---- the temperate man the greatest #ai ,economy1 the first rule of comfortable1 note #fa ,fawn1 #fe #adj ,fennel and butter for mackerel1 #bfe #bca ,fish1 see the #fth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery #hf ---- cold1 to redress #ec ---- fecundity of1 note #hf ---- how to market for #ceh ---- to stew1 #aeh #agg ---- soups1 #bbe #bjg ---- forcemeat1 #chc #bff ---- sauce1 #dbe #bgh ---- to pickle1 #afa #ahj ,forcemeat1 to make1 #cgc #bfb ---- materials used for #bfc ---- for veal1 #cge #bfd ---- for turkey1 #cgg #bfe ---- for goose1 #cgh ib4 ---- for hare1 #cgi ib4 ---- balls1 for mock turtle and made dishes1 #chj ib4 ---- egg ditto1 #cha #bff ---- curry ditto1 #chb ib4 ---- zest1 c4 #chf ib4 ---- of fish for maigre dishes1 #chc ib4 ---- to mix orange and lemon peel1 #chg ib4 ,flip1 #dff #bid ,flounders1 #aee #age ,fowls1 to boil one half and roast the other at the same time #cc ---- to boil1 #af #aai ---- to roast1 #eh #acf ---- to broil1 #ig #aed ---- hashed1 #ecc #cbh ---- pulled1 #ecd ib4 ---- to dress cold1 #ece #cbi ---- ,apicius's sauce for #ce ,french beans1 #acc #afd ---- ---- pickled 7,ap4 #aah47 #djb ---- tart of preserved fruit 7,ap4 #ce47 #cgj ---- bread and rolls 7,ap4 #ajj997 #cij ,froth roast meat1 to #gh ,frogges1 fried #cd ,fare1 bill of1 for a week #ef ,frying #hj ,flavour1 agents employed to soups and sauces1 note under #ajd ,flounders1 fried or boiled1 #aee #age ,fritters1 #eeh #cdd ,fruit1 to preserve1 without sugar 7,ap4 #ii47 #cij ,game1 to render immediately ripe for roasting #eh ---- soup1 #bdb #baf ,garlic vinegar1 #djj #bgj ---- sauce1 #bgb #bcc ---- gravy1 #caa #bdd ,giblets1 stewed1 #eca #cbh ---- soup1 #bdd #baf ---- pie 7,ap4 #ad47 #cfc ,gherkins 7,ap4 #aag47 #djb ,gigot de ,sept ,heures1 ,n4,b4 to #a #ajh ,ginger1 essence of1 #daa #bge ---- preserved 7,ap4 #ig47 #chi ,gingerbread nuts 7,ap4 #gf47 #chb ,goose1 ,dr4 ,stark says is the most nutritive food #ach ---- to roast1 #ei #acg ---- ditto1 alive #cc ---- to persuade one to roast himself6 #a ib4 ---- how the liver is fattened for the ,strasburg pies4 ,in note to #ei #acg ---- to hash1 #ecj #cbf ---- green1 #fj #ach ---- mock1 #ea #aca ---- bonne bouche for1 #cda #bea ---- relish for1 #cda ib4 ,gourds1 various ways of dressing #cdh ,,gourmand defined1 note #ag ,gourmandize1 to guard against1 note #bd ,gooseberry sauce1 #bfc #bca ,,gravy1 read the #hth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery #ajj ---- for poultry1 ragots1 c41 #cbi #bdi ---- onion1 #bii #bda ---- garlic1 #caa #bdd ---- game1 #ccg #bea ---- for wild duck1 #cch ib4 ---- roasted meat1 #cbf #bdh ---- boiled1 #cbg #bdi ---- wow wow for salted or stewed beef1 #cbh #bdi ---- for grills and broils1 c41 #cee #bed ---- for chops and steaks1 #cef #bee ---- relish for chops and steaks1 #dbc #bgh ---- for cold meat or poultry1 c41 #cei #bee ---- hashes of mutton1 c41 #cfj #bef ---- ditto1 veal1 #cfa #beg ---- for venison1 of wine1 #cdd #bec ---- of vinegar1 #cde ib4 ---- for venison1 of currant jelly1 #cdf ib4 ---- of mutton1 #cdg ib4 ---- brown colouring for1 #cbb #bdf ---- portable1 #beb #bbc ---- soup1 #bjj #aih ---- vegetable1 ditto1 #bbd #bjg ,green pease1 #acd #afd ---- soup1 #baf #bjc ---- maigre1 ditto1 #bag ib4 ,green gages1 preserved in syrup 7,ap4 #if47 #chh ,grill sauce1 #cee #bed ,grouse1 #gc #add ,gruel1 water1 various ways of making and flavouring1 #egb #ceb ,guinea fowl1 #fi99 #adc ,glasse1 ,mrs41 her ,cookery #bj ,gridiron #hb ,haddock1 #aeg #agf ---- ,findhorn1 ditto1 #aeg99 ib4 ,haggis1 a good ,scotch1 #dhh99 #cje ,ham1 to boil1 #ad #aah ---- to pot1 #eji #cah ---- slices of broiled1 #ebf #cbd ---- essence of1 #cea #ced ---- where to buy1 ditto1 #cea ib4 ,hare1 roast1 #ff #adj ---- jugged1 #ebi99 #cbe ---- soup1 #bda #bae ---- mock1 #ff99 #ada ---- hashed1 #ebi #cbe ---- pie 7,ap4 #aa47 #cfb ,haricot of mutton1 lamb1 veal1 or beef1 #dhi #cjf ---- of beef1 #die #caj ,hashes1 mutton1 #dhd #cjc ---- to warm up1 #dhe #cjd ---- beef1 #dhf ib4 ---- veal1 #eaa #cah ---- venison1 #ebh #cbe ---- cold calf's head1 #eai #cba ---- ditto1 #aj #aad ---- calf's head or ragot1 #ebj #cba ---- hare1 #ebi #cbe ---- duck or goose1 #ecj #cbf ---- poultry1 game1 or rabbit1 #ecc #cbh ---- sauce for1 #cfj #bef ,haunch 7see ,h47 bone of beef1 #h #aac ,herbs1 when1 and how to dry1 #dfa #bij ,herrings1 pickled1 #aga #ahe ---- broiled1 #aga99 ib4 ---- red ditto1 #agb #ahf ,horseradish powder1 #deh99 #bhi ---- vinegar1 #cii99 #bgj ,housekeeping1 plan of #bg ---- book ib4 ,horse powdered #cd ,hill1 ,dr41 author of ,mrs4 ,glasse's ,cookery #bj ,hanger1 ,col41 quoted1 his hints for guarding against la ,gourmandize1 note #bc ,hudson1 the dwarf1 served up in a pie #cd ,icing for fruit tarts1 c4 7,ap4 #ca47 #cfi ---- for twelfth cake 7,ap4 #hd47 #chd ,indigestion #ch ---- lozenges for1 note ib4 ---- remedy for #ci ,invitations1 how to send #da ---- to answer ib4 ,indian or mixed pickle 7,ap4 #abc47 #djd ,independence1 the road to #fd ,italian salad1 see ,obs4 to #cgb #bfj ---- cream 7,ap4 #dh47 #cgd ---- macaroons 7,ap4 #gj47 #chj ,irish stew1 ,mrs4 ,phillips's1 #dhh #cje ---- ditto1 ,mr4 ,morrison's1 #dhh ib4 ,jack1 to dress1 #aeh #agg ,jacks1 ,obs4 on #gd ,jelly1 ox heel1 #aih #aig ---- calf's feet1 #dha #bii ---- of currants and other fruits1 #dgi99 #bih ,jerusalem artichokes1 #aag #afj ,jockey1 how to waste #aij ,,johnson',s brandy and liqueurs1 #dga #bif ,,johnson1 ,dr41 quoted #bj ,,kay1 ,mr41 of ,albion ,house1 wines1 c41 ,obs4 to #id #bdc ,,kelly',s sauce for calf head or cow heel1 #caa #bdd ---- ditto1 for sauce piquante1 #caa99 ib4 ,kid1 to roast1 #fe99 #adj ,kidneys1 to broil1 #ie #aec ,kitchen maid1 business of a #be ,kitchen fire place1 best ornaments for #fd ---- chimney should be swept often #ed ---- utensils #hi ,kitchiner1 ,dr41 quoted1 note1 #egb #cj ,,life1 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,invigorating ,,and ,,prolonging vii4 ,lacedmon1 black broth of #ce ---- ditto sauce ib4 ,lamb1 to broil1 #c #aji ---- to roast1 #dj #abi ---- sham lamb1 ditto1 #dj ib4 ---- hind quarter1 #da ib4 ---- fore quarter1 #db #acj ---- leg1 #dc ib4 ---- shoulder1 #dd ib4 ---- to goosify1 ditto1 note to #ea #aca ---- ribs1 #de #acj ---- loin1 #df #acj ---- neck1 #dg ib4 ---- breast1 #dh ib4 ---- chops1 #ic #aej ---- shoulder1 grilled1 #dia #cjg ---- lamb's fry1 #dib #cjh ,larders1 proper1 note #eg ,larks1 #hj #adf ,lemon chips 7,ap4 #id47 #chg ---- syrup1 #cia #bfg ---- sauce1 #bgc #bcc ---- juice1 artificial1 #djg99 #bgd ,lemon and liver sauce1 #bhg #bcg ---- peel essence1 #djg #bgc ---- quintessence ditto1 #djh #bgd ---- tincture ditto1 #djh99 ib4 ,lemonade in a minute1 #dgg #big ,liquamen of the ,romans #ce ,liqueurs1 #dga #bif ,lister1 ,mrs41 leg of beef soup4 ,see shin of beef soup4 ,liver of a goose4 ,see note under #ei #acg ---- and parsley sauce1 #bhg #bcg ---- ditto for fish1 #bhh #bch ,lobster1 to roast1 #hb #adf ---- to boil1 #agf #ahg ---- sauce1 #bhd #bcf ---- sauce for lobster1 #bhe #bcg ---- soup1 #bcg #baa ---- potted1 #agh #ahc ---- patties 7,ap4 #bg47 #cfh ---- salad1 #cgb #bfj ---- spawn1 to preserve1 ,n4,b4 to #bhd #bcf ,lozenges #ch ,macaroni1 #edc #ccb ---- soup1 see ,obs4 to #bjj #aih ,mackerel1 boiled1 #afg #ahc ---- broiled1 #afi #ahd ---- baked1 #agj ib4 ---- pickled1 #aga #ahe ---- roe sauce1 #bff #bca ,made dishes1 ,obs4 on4 ,see #ith chapter of ,rudiments of ,cookery #ajf ---- ---- economical ditto1 #dhc #cjj ,magazine of ,taste #bib ,maigre forcemeat1 #chc #bff ---- plum pudding1 #eed #cdb ,mandeville1 ,dr41 quoted1 ,preface viii4 ,manners1 the importance of good #db ,marjoram1 essence of1 #dag #bgg ,marrow bones1 #edd #ccf ,meat1 soup from any1 boiled #fi ,melroe1 ,mrs41 her ,econom4 ,cookery1 quoted1 note to #hc #adg ,melted butter #bbh ,minced collops #cjf ,mince pies 7,ap4 #ch47 #cga ---- meat 7,ap4 #ci47 #cgb ,mint sauce1 #cjc #bdb ---- vinegar1 #cih #bgj ,mock turtle soup1 #bdg #bai ---- ditto1 do4 by ,e4 ,lister1 #bde #bah ,mille feuilles 7,ap4 #dd47 #cgb ,moor game1 #gb #add ,morels1 ,obs4 on #hi ,mulled wine1 aromatic1 essence for1 #dab #bge ,mustard1 to make1 #cgj #bei ---- to make in a minute1 #cfi ib4 ---- ditto1 to keep1 #dbg #bgh ---- seed oil #djd ,manners1 barbarous1 of the sixteenth century #bi ---- good effects of good #db ---- bad effects of bad #dc ,measures1 glass ones #ca ,meat1 how long it must hang to be tender #eg ---- if frozen ib4 ---- killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately #eh ,marketing #fa ---- best rule for ib4 ---- ditto #ef ,,marketing ,,tables1 for meat #cee ---- ---- poultry #ceg ---- ---- vegetables #cei ,meat skreen #gg ,meat cakes1 #ejd99 #caf ,mutton1 to boil a leg1 #a #ajh ---- neck1 #b #aji ,mutton1 #bc #abd ---- roast1 a leg1 #bd #abe ---- ditto1 saddle1 #bf ib4 ---- shoulder1 #bg ib4 ---- loin1 #bh ib4 ---- neck1 #bi #abf ---- breast1 #cj ib4 ---- haunch1 #ca ib4 ---- ditto1 venison fashion1 #cb ib4 ---- or veal pie 7,ap4 #aj47 #cfb ---- chops1 #ib #aej ---- ditto1 stewed1 #dij #cjg ---- broth1 #aid4 #efd #aif4 #cej ---- ---- mock1 #aie #aig ---- to hash1 #dhd #cjc ---- haricot1 #dhi #cjf ---- mullaga-tawny soup1 #bdi #bbb ,mushroom sauce1 #cje #bdb ---- ditto1 brown1 #cjf #bdc ---- extempore1 #cjg ib4 ---- catchup1 #dci #bhc ---- quintessence of1 #ddj #bhe ,marrow bones1 #edd #ccf ---- vegetable #cdh ,muffins 7,ap4 #ajb47 #cia ,nutmeg1 tincture of1 #dac99 #bgf ---- grater1 the best #fe ,omelettes1 #edc99 #ccc ,onion1 ,obs4 on1 note #ib ---- pickled 7,ap4 #aba47 #djc ---- stewed1 #acg #aff ---- young1 sauce1 #bif #bdj ---- sauce1 #big ib4 ---- ---- white1 #bih #bdj ---- ---- brown1 #bii #bda ---- sage and1 #cjj ib4 ,orange jelly 7,ap4 #dg47 #cgc ---- gingerbread 7,ap4 #ge47 #chb ,orgeat 7,ap4 #ha47 #chc ,ox cheek1 stewed1 #ejg #cag ---- ---- portable soup of1 #beb #bbd ,ox tails1 stewed1 #ejh #cah ,ox head soup1 #bci #bac ,ox tail soup1 #bdj #bad ,ox heel jelly1 #aih #aig ---- ---- soup1 #bdj99 #bad ,oysters1 how to feed and preserve their lives1 and how to tickle them to death1 #aha #ahi ---- certainly not so nutritive as supposed1 ,n4,b4 to #aha #aij ---- native1 those that are born and bred in the ,burnham rivers1 note to #aha #ahi ---- essence of1 #dda #bhe ---- scalloped1 #ahb #aia ---- stewed1 #ahb99 #aib ---- fried1 #ahc ib4 ---- sauce1 #bgh #bcd ---- preserved in powder1 #bhj #bcd ---- patties 7,ap4 #bf47 #cfh ,osborne1 ,h4 ,cook to ,sir ,j4 ,banks xi4 #eb ---- ditto1 his receipts for puddings1 c41 #efj #cde ,oatmeal1 a substitute for bread crumbs1 note #hb ,pancakes1 #eeh #cdd ,paregoric elixir1 #egj #ceb ,pharmacopoeia1 ,appendix to x4 ,parmentier1 quoted1 ,preface ib4 ,parsley and butter1 #bfa #bcj ---- to preserve1 ,n4,b4 to #bfa #bca ---- fried1 #cag #bde ---- crisp1 #cah #bdf ,partridges1 #gj #adc ---- soup1 #bda #bae ,paste for croquants1 or cut pastry 7,ap4 #h47 #cfa ---- for meat or savoury pies 7,ap4 #b47 #cfj ---- for boiled puddings 7,ap4 #f47 #cfa ---- for stringing tartlets1 c4 7,ap4 #g47 ib4 ,pease1 to boil1 #acd #afd ---- pudding1 #eee #cdc ---- ---- how to make for half the usual expense1 note to #eee ib4 ---- soups1 #bah4 #bbj #bjc4 #bje ---- ditto1 in five minutes1 ,obs4 to #eee #cdc ---- curry pease soup1 note to #bah #bje ---- celery ditto1 ditto1 #bah #bjd ---- plain pease soup1 #bba #bjf ,parsnips1 #abh #afc ,peristaltic persuaders #ci ,peptic ,precepts1 quoted ib4 ,pease powder1 #deh #bhi ,perch1 fried1 #aei #agi ---- boiled1 #afj #agi ---- stewed1 #aeh #agg ,pheasant1 #fh #adb ---- mock ditto1 #fi #adc ---- criterion of its being assez mortifie1 ,obs4 on #fh #adb ,,pickles1 ,obs4 on #cih ---- pounded ib4 ---- wholesome substitute for1 #cih1 #cii ,pigeons1 roast1 #gh #ade ---- to broil1 #ih #aed ---- or lark pie 7,ap4 #ac47 #cfc ,pig1 sucking1 #ef #acc ,pettitoes or sucking pig's feet1 #ab #aga ,piquante vinegar1 #dec #bhg ,plaice1 fried1 #aee #age ,plain pound cake 7,ap4 #eg47 #cgg ,plum pudding1 #eec #cda ,plum pudding sauce1 #bfi #bcb ,plum pound cake 7,ap4 #eh47 #cgg ,poached eggs1 #edf #ccg ,poor man's sauce1 #caj #bdc ,poor1 soup for1 #bbi #bjh ,papin1 ,dr41 his ,digester1 note #bbc ,pork1 the season for it1 and the accompaniments1 c41 #di #acj ---- to roast a leg1 #ej #aca ---- to boil ditto1 #aa #aaf ---- to roast without the skin on1 #ea #aca ---- mock goose1 #ea ib4 ---- to lambify the leg of a porkling1 see note to #ea ib4 ---- griskin1 #eb #acb ---- sparerib1 #ec ib4 ---- loin1 #ed ib4 ---- chine1 #ee #acc ---- to salt1 #f #aab ---- to boil1 pickled1 #aa #aaf ---- how to score after you have boiled it1 #aa ib4 ---- chops1 to fry1 #ic #aej ---- sausages1 #hg #adh ,poivrade sauce1 #cfe #bei ,portable soup1 #beb #bbc ,pot top1 best fat for frying1 ,obs4 to #hc #adg ---- ---- liquor #ed ---- ---- to convert into pease soup in five minutes1 ,n4,b4 to #eee #cdc ,potatoes1 #af ways of dressing1 #ajb #aee ---- to redress cold1 #ajb99 #aef ---- boiled and broiled1 #ajc ib4 ---- fried in slices1 #ajd ib4 ---- fried whole1 #aje #aeg ---- mashed1 #ajf ib4 ---- ditto1 with onion1 #ajg ib4 ---- escalloped1 #ajh ib4 ---- roasted1 #aji #aeh ---- under meat1 #aaj ib4 ---- balls1 #aaa ib4 ---- savoury1 #aab ib4 ---- snow1 #aad ib4 ---- gipsy pie1 #aae #aei ---- new1 #aaf ib4 ---- mucilage or starch1 #ddh #bhf ---- flour ib4 ---- colcannon1 #ajh99 #aeg ,potted beef1 veal1 game1 c41 #ejc #cad ---- ---- veal1 game1 c41 why in season at the same time as mock turtle1 note under #bdg #bai ,potted ham1 c41 #eji #cah ,prawns1 #age #ahg ,poultry1 to render immediately ripe for roasting #eh ---- marketing tables for #ceg ,pudding1 my1 #eed #cda ---- plum1 #eec ib4 ---- ditto1 do4 sauce for1 #bfi #bcb ---- suet1 #eea #cdj ---- ,yorkshire1 #eeb #cda ---- pease1 #eee #cdc ---- macaroni1 #edc #ccb ---- batter #cdf ---- bread and butter1 boiled and baked1 #eeg #cdd ---- ,boston apple #cde ---- spring fruit ib4 ---- ,nottingham ib4 ---- ,newmarket #cdf ---- ,newcastle or cabinet ib4 ---- ,vermicelli ib4 ---- bread ib4 ---- custard #cdg ---- boiled ditto ib4 ---- college 7,ap4 #aje47 #cie ---- rice1 baked or boiled ib4 ---- ground ib4 ---- save-all 7,ap4 #aaj47 #cif ,puddings and pies1 ,obs4 on #cib ,pudding catchup1 #ddf #bhe ,puff paste 7,ap4 #a47 #cfj ,pulled turkey1 chicken1 c41 #ecd #cbh ,punch1 directly1 #dgh #bih ---- essence of1 to make1 #dgi ib4 ,purger souvent les ,cuisiniers 7de la ncessit7 #bf ,pig's pettitoes1 #ab #aag ,politeness1 ancient rules for1 note #bi ,porpus #cc ,pie1 ,jeffery ,hudson served up in one #cd ,provisions1 how to procure the best1 #fa4 #ceg ,pepper1 ,obs4 on #ic ---- double headed boxes #fe ,queen's drops 7,ap4 #fb47 #cgh ,quin's sauce1 #dbe #bgh ---- ditto1 ,obs4 on ,ann ,chovy's marriage1 in note to #dcc #bha ,rabbit1 roast1 #fg #adb ---- boiled1 #ag #aba ---- broiled1 #ig #aed ---- soup1 #bda #bae ---- pie 7,ap4 #ag47 #cfe ---- a ,welch1 #eci #ccj ,ragot beef1 see ,obs4 to #dic #cji ---- sauce1 #cbi #bdi ---- savoury powder1 #deg #bhh ---- quintessence of ditto1 #dfj #bij ---- of poultry1 to dress1 #ecj99 #cbg ---- breast of veal1 #eag #cai ---- raised pies 7,ap4 #e47 #cfa ---- ,french pies 7,ap4 #ah47 #cfe ---- ham pie 7,ap4 #ai47 ib4 ---- pork pie 7,ap4 #ba47 #cff ---- lamb pie 7,ap4 #bc47 ib4 ,raspberry vinegar1 #cij #bff ---- wine or brandy1 #dfi #bie ---- jam 7,ap4 #ib47 #chg ,red cabbage1 pickled 7,ap4 #abj47 #djc ,rhubarb1 various ways of dressing #cdg ,rice blancmange 7,ap4 #aji47 #cif ---- pudding 7,ap4 #ajf47 #cie ---- ground pudding 7,ap4 #ajg47 ib4 ---- sauce1 #cba99 #bdf ---- snowballs 7,ap4 #ajh47 #cif ,ripe fruit tarts 7,ap4 #cj47 #cfi ,,roasting1 see the #b;d chapter of ,rudiments of ,cookery #gd ,robert sauce for pork and geese1 #cdb #beb ,roe boat ditto1 see ,obs4 to #cdb ib4 ,rouge1 see note to #dcc #bha ,roux1 see ,obs4 to #beg #bbi ,rump steak1 broiled1 #id #aea ---- ---- stewed1 #ejj #caa ---- ---- do4 with onion gravy1 #eja #cab ---- ---- pie 7,ap4 #ae47 #cfd ,romans ate five meals a day #cd ---- their favourite dishes #ce ---- liquamen and garum ib4 ,sack posset1 ,sir ,f4 ,shepherd's1 #dfg99 #bie ,sage and onion sauce1 #cjj #bda ,sally ,lunn tea cakes 7,ap4 #aja47 #cij ,salt1 to prepare for table1 #cga #bfj ,salt fish1 #aej #agc ,salting meat1 #f #aaa ---- to make it red1 #f ib4 ---- to make it savoury1 #f #aab ---- to pickle meat ib4 ,sandwiches1 #ejd #caf ,save-all pudding 7,ap4 #aaj47 #cif ,,scotch haggis1 #dhh99 #cje ---- collops1 #eag #cba ---- ditto1 minced #cjf ---- gravy1 see ,obs4 to #cbf #bdh ---- brose1 #bje99 #bja ---- barley broth1 #bjd #aii ---- beef1 note #abc ---- soups1 #bje #bjj ---- winter hotch potch1 #bje ib4 ---- leek soup1 or cocky leeky1 #bje #bja ---- lamb stew1 #bje ib4 ,salads1 ,evelyn's directions about1 #ach and #cgb #aff4 #bfj ---- ,dutch1 ,french1 ,italian1 c41 ,obs4 to #cgb #bfa ,salad sauce1 #cgb and #dec #bfj4 #bhg ,salmon1 pickled1 #afa #ahj ---- boiled1 #afb ib4 ---- broiled1 #afc #aha ,,sauce1 before you make1 read the #hth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery #ajj ---- anchovy1 #bgj #bcb ---- apple1 #cjd #bdb ---- basil vinegar or wine1 #cig #bfi ---- balls for mock turtle1 #chj #bfe ---- bechamel1 #cfd #beg ---- bottled oyster1 #bgh #bcd ---- beef gravy1 for poultry1 #cbi #bdi ---- bonne bouche for a goose1 #cda #bea ---- bread1 #cba #bdf ---- browning1 #cbb ib4 ---- butter1 melted1 #bef #bbh ---- burnt1 ditto1 #bfj #bcj ---- clarified1 ditto1 #bei ib4 ---- oiled1 ditto1 #bfj99 ib4 ---- to recover1 ,n4,b4 to #bef #bbi ---- catchup of mushrooms1 #dci #bhc ---- of walnuts1 #dch #bhb ---- of cockles1 c41 #ddb #bhe ---- for puddings1 #ddf ib4 ---- camp vinegar1 #djc #bga ---- caper1 #bgd #bcc ---- celery1 #bhi #bch ---- ditto1 brown1 #bij ib4 ---- chervil1 #bfd #bca ---- ,chili vinegar1 #dje #bgc ---- crisp parsley1 #cah #bde ---- cucumber1 #ace #afe ---- curry1 #cdh #bed ---- egg1 #bfg #bcb ---- essence of turtle1 #cdc99 #beb ---- ---- of ham1 #cea #bed ---- ---- of mushrooms1 #ddj #bhe ---- ---- of oysters1 #dda ib4 ---- ---- of ,cayenne1 #dje #bgc ---- ---- of anchovy1 #dcc #bhj ---- ---- of lemon peel1 #djg #bgd ---- quintessence of ditto1 #djh ib4 ---- ---- essence of celery1 #dji #bge ---- ---- of ginger1 #daa ib4 ---- ---- of allspice1 #dab ib4 ---- ---- of clove1 #dad #bgf ---- ---- of mace1 ---- ---- of cinnamon1 #daf ib4 ---- ---- of soup herbs1 #dbj #bgg ---- ---- of soup herb and savoury spice1 #dbb ib4 ---- ---- of eschalot1 #djb #bga ---- ---- of punch1 #dgi #bih ---- eschalot1 #bid #bci ---- ditto1 vinegar1 #dja #bga ---- fennel and butter for mackerel1 c41 #bfe #bcb ---- fish1 #dbe #bgh ---- forcemeat1 to make1 #cgc #bfb ---- forcemeat balls for mock turtle1 #chj #bfe ---- egg balls1 #cha #bff ---- curry ditto1 #chb ib4 ---- fish forcemeat1 #chc ib4 ---- zest ditto1 #chf ib4 ---- for veal1 #cge #bfd ---- to mix orange or lemon peel1 #chg #bff ---- gravy for poultry1 ragots1 c41 #cbi #bdi ---- ditto for game1 #ccg #bea ---- ditto for wild duck1 #cch ib4 ---- ditto of onion1 #bii #bda ---- ditto of garlic1 #caa #bdd ---- ditto for roasted meat1 #cbf #bdh ---- ditto for boiled ditto1 #cbg #bdi ---- wow wow1 for boiled beef1 #cbh ib4 ---- wine1 see venison1 #cdd #bec ---- vinegar for venison1 #cde ib4 ---- mutton ib4 ---- for grills1 #cee #bed ---- for chops and steaks1 #cef #bee ---- for cold meat or poultry1 #cei ib4 ---- for hashes of mutton1 c41 #cfj #bef ---- for ditto of veal1 #cfa #beg ---- relish for chops1 #dbc #bgh ---- gooseberry1 #bfc #bca ---- garlic1 #bgb #bcc ---- ditto gravy1 #caa #bdd ---- ditto vinegar1 #djj #bgj ---- ,m4 ,kelly's1 for calf's head or cow heel1 #caa99 #bdd ---- ditto1 ditto1 piquante1 #caa99 ib4 ---- lemon1 syrup of1 #cia #bfg ---- lemonade in a minute1 #dgg #big ---- lemon1 #bgc #bcc ---- ditto1 and liver1 or parsley and liver sauce1 #bhg #bcg ---- liver1 for fish1 #bhh #bch ---- lobster1 #bhd #bcf ---- for lobster1 #bhe #bcg ---- mackerel roe1 #bff #bca ---- green mint1 #cjc #bdb ---- vinegar1 #cih #bgj ---- mushroom1 #cje #bdb ---- ditto1 brown1 #cjf #bdc ---- ditto1 in five minutes1 #cjg ib4 ---- mustard1 to make1 #cgj #bei ---- ditto1 in a minute1 #cfi ib4 ---- ditto1 to keep1 #dbg #bgh ---- oyster1 #bgh #bcd ---- bottled1 ditto1 #bhj ib4 ---- onion1 #big #bdj ---- ditto1 white1 for rabbits1 c4 #bih ib4 ---- young onion1 #bif ib4 ---- fried1 or brown onion1 #bii #bda ---- sage and onion1 #cjj ib4 ---- ox heel jelly1 #aih #aig ---- parsley and butter1 #bfa #bcj ---- ditto1 fried1 #cag #bdd ---- ditto1 crisp1 #cah #bde ---- pease powder1 #deh #bhi ---- pickles1 #dfb #bib ---- piquante vinegar1 #dec #bhg ---- plum pudding1 #bfi #bcb ---- poivrade1 #cfe #bei ---- poor man's1 #caj #bdc ---- potato mucilage1 #ddh #bhf ---- ragot sauce1 #cbi #bdi ---- ragot powder1 #deg #bhh ---- quintessence of ragot powder1 #dfj #bij ---- rice1 #cba99 #bdf ---- salad mixture1 #cgb #bfj ---- salad1 #dec #bhg ---- superlative1 #dbi #bgh ---- box1 #dfb #ei4 #bib ,savoy biscuits 7,ap4 #fi47 #chj ,savoys1 #abj #afj ,savoury salt beef1 #dif #caj ,savoury pies1 pasties1 c4 7,ap4 #ab47 #cfc ,soup herb powder1 or vegetable relish1 #dei #bhi ,shrimps1 potted1 #age #ahg ,shrimp sauce1 #bhc #bce ,shrub1 #dgi #bih ,small puffs of preserved fruit1 7,ap4 #cf47 #cgj ,snipes1 #gg #add ,soda water1 ,obs4 on1 note #ch ,sorrel sauce1 #bia #bch ,sponge biscuits1 7,ap4 #ff47 #cgi ,sprouts1 #aba #afj ,sparerib of bacon1 to roast1 #ec #acb ,spices1 ,obs4 on1 #dbi #bgi ,soup herb and savoury powder1 #dfj #bij ---- spirit1 #dbj1 #dba1 #dbb #bgg ,spinage1 #abb #afj ,stock1 first1 note to #ahe #aic ---- second1 note to #ahe #aid ,stuffing1 #cgc #bfb ---- for hare1 #cgi #bfe ---- for goose1 #cgh ib4 ---- for turkey1 #cgg ib4 ---- for veal1 #cgd #bfd ,suet pudding1 #eea #cdj ,syrup1 clarified1 #dge #big ---- of lemon peel1 #cic #bfh ---- of lemon1 #cia #bfg ---- of orange1 #cib #bfh ,stomach1 an ,englishman's cooking kettle1 ,dr4 ,hunter's ,obs4 on2 ,waterhouse's ditto1 note #ae ---- the machinery of life #ai ---- ,dr4 ,cheyne's ,obs4 on2 ,abernethy's ditto #bj ,stomachic tincture1 #efi #ceb ,spectacles for ,gourmands1 note #bc ,spring fruit1 various ways of dressing #cdg ,sprats1 to broil1 #agj99 #ahe ---- to pickle1 #aga #ahe ---- to stew1 #agj9999 ib4 ---- to fry1 #agc #ahg ,servants1 ,rev4 ,wm4 ,watkins' excellent institution for the encouragement of #be ---- friendly advice to #df ---- maxims for #di ,swan #cc ,seals #cd ,skate1 #adh #agb ,soups1 under the name of the article they are made of4 ,soup1 ,obs4 on #hi ---- cheap #ia ---- and bouilli1 #bch #bab ,steaks1 #he1 #id #adh4 #aea ,stew pan #hi ,suet1 to clarify for frying1 c4 #hd #adg ---- puddings #cic ,sausages1 to fry1 #hg #adh ,sweetbread1 to fry1 #hh #adi ---- do4 plain1 #hi ib4 ,sweet1 or short and crisp tart paste 7,ap4 #d47 #cfj ,sea kale1 #abd #afb ,soles1 to boil1 #add #afi ---- to fry1 #ade ib4 ---- to stew1 #adf1 #aeh1 #afd #aga4 #agg4 #aha ---- filleted1 #adg #aga ,skate1 fried1 #aed #age ,sturgeon1 #aeb #agd ,tart paste 7,ap4 #c47 #cfj ,tartlets 7,ap4 #cd47 #cgj ,taste1 the ,committee of1 ,preface xi4 ---- the ,magazine of1 #dfb #fc4 #bib ---- varieties of #ea ,tastes1 six simple1 note #ec ,tamis1 note to1 #ahi #aie ,tankard1 cool1 #dfd #bid ,tarragon sauce1 #bfd #bcb ---- vinegar1 #cif #bfh ,tea1 to make1 #eej #cci ,tender1 to make meat #eh ,tewahdiddle1 #dfg #bid ,thickening1 or roux1 #beg #bbi ---- ditto #ih ,toast and water1 #dfc #bic ---- and cheese1 #eci #ccj ,toasted cheese1 #edj #cca ,tomato sauce1 #bib #bci ---- mock ditto1 #bic ib4 ,tongue to boil1 #ae #aai ---- what the roots are good for1 ,obs4 to #ae ib4 ,toothache1 cure for1 #efg #cea ,tripe1 #ah #aba ,trifle 7,ap4 #di47 #cgd ,truffles1 ,obs4 on #ie ,turbot1 to boil1 #adj #afg ,turkey1 to boil1 #af #aai ---- to fatten and whiten1 #af ib4 ---- roast1 #eg #acd ---- hash1 c4 #ecc #cbh ---- pulled1 #ecd ib4 ,turnips1 #acj #afc ---- to mash1 #aca #afd ,turnip-tops1 #acb #afd ---- soup1 #bac #bjb ,turtle1 to dress1 #bej #bbc ---- mock ditto1 #bdg1 c4 #bai ---- ,birch's ditto1 excellent note to #bdg ib4 ---- mock mock1 ditto1 #bde #bah ---- ,english1 #bdh #bbb ---- sauce1 #cdc #beb ---- essence1 #cdc99 ib4 ---- hints to turtle eaters1 ,obs4 to #dic #cji ---- #bejj pounds of1 eaten at one dinner1 note to #bej #bbc ,twelfth cake 7,ap4 #ee47 #cgf ,vauxhall nectar1 to imitate1 #dhj #bii ,veal1 to boil1 #d #aji ---- to roast1 #cc #abg ---- fillet1 #cd ib4 ---- loin1 #ce #abh ---- shoulder1 #cf ib4 ---- neck1 best end1 #cg ib4 ---- breast1 #ch ib4 ---- sweetbread1 #ci ib4 ---- cutlet1 #ij #adi ---- ditto1 sauce for1 #ij ib4 ---- ditto1 full dressed1 #eba #cbb ---- broth1 #aia #aie ---- gravy1 #aib ib4 ---- knuckle soup1 #aic #aif ---- stuffing1 ,roger ,fowler's1 #cgd #bfd ---- forcemeat1 #cge ib4 ---- breast1 stewed1 #eae #cai ---- minced1 #eaa99 #cah ---- hashed1 #eaa ib4 ---- sauce for1 #cfa #beg ---- excellent hot ragot of cold veal1 #eab #cai ---- potted1 #ejc #cad ---- breast ragot1 #eag #cai ---- ditto1 with pease1 note to #eag #cbj ---- olives1 #eah #cba ---- cutlets1 broiled1 #eba #cbb ---- knuckle1 to ragot1 #ebb #cbc ---- with rice1 #ebc ib4 ---- ,gay's receipt1 ditto1 #ebd ib4 ---- and ham patties 7,ap4 #bh47 #cfh ---- ---- ---- pie 7,ap4 #bj47 #cff ,vegetables1 ,obs4 on4 ,see the #eth chapter of the ,rudiments of ,cookery #hc ,vegetable essences1 to extract1 #dag499 #bgg ---- marrow #cdh ---- marketing tables for #cei ,venison1 to roast a haunch1 #fc #aci ---- neck or shoulder1 #fd #adj ---- to hash1 #ebh #cbe ---- to vensonify mutton1 #cb #abf ---- the ,devil's #cc ---- wine sauce for1 #cdd #bec ---- sharp ditto for1 #cde ib4 ---- sweet ditto1 #cdf ib4 ---- mutton gravy1 #cdg ib4 ---- pasty 7,ap4 #i47 #cfb ,vinegar sauce for venison1 #cde #bec ---- burnet or cucumber1 #cii #bgj ---- basil1 #cig #bfi ---- cress1 #cig99 ib4 ---- garlic1 #djj #bgj ---- horseradish1 #cii99 ib4 ---- eschalot1 #dja #bga ---- camp1 #djc ib4 ---- piquante1 #dec #bhg ---- for salads1 #cie #bfh ---- tarragon1 #cif ib4 ---- raspberry1 #cij #bfg ---- sweet and savoury herbs1 spices1 c41 ,obs4 to #cif #bfi ---- green mint1 #cih #bgj ---- pyroligneous1 ,obs4 on #cig99 #bfi ,vol au vent 7,ap4 #be47 #cfg ,walnuts1 to pickle 7,ap4 #aaf47 #dja ,walnut catchup1 #dch #bhb ,water gruel1 immediately1 #egb #ceb ---- various relishes for1 #egb ib4 ,water souchy1 #aef #age ,watkins1 the ,rev4 ,g41 his hints to heads of families #be ,welsh rabbit1 #eci #ccj ,wheatears1 #ha #adf ,white sauce1 #cfd1 #cfe #beh ---- wine whey1 #eff #cea ,whitings1 fried1 #aec #agd ,whip syllabub 7,ap4 #ej47 #cge ,widgeons and teal1 #ge #add ,wild ducks1 #gd ib4 ,wine sauce for venison1 c41 #cdd #bec ---- eschalot1 #djb #bga ,woodcock1 #gf #add ---- has the same honours paid to it as the ,grand ,lama1 note to #gf ib4 ,wow wow sauce for boiled beef1 #cbh #bdi ,weights and measures for cookery1 table of #fd ,weight1 the diminution that takes place in cooking #gj ,yorkshire pudding1 #eeb #cda ,,the ,,end ,transcriber's ,note ,the following typographical errors were corrected4 ,page ,error viii ,,dr4 ,,mandeville changed to ,dr4 ,,mandeville x avail nothing4 changed to avail nothing1 xiii ,confectionary1 changed to ,confectionery #ag ,,palateableness changed to ,,palatableness #ah appetite4--,,milton changed to appetite4--,,milton4 #ah noxious1 text missing every changed to noxious1 and that every based on comparison with a different edition of the book #ca ,for instance3 changed to ,for instance3 #cb shoulder of mutton1 changed to shoulder of mutton1 #cc ,,boiled2 changed to ,,boiled2 ,fn4 #ae-99 ,,waterhouse' changed to ,,waterhouse',s ,fn4 #ag-99 ,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 changed to ,a4 ,c41 ,jun4 ,fn4 #bj-99 ,,dr4 ,,cheyne changed to ,dr4 ,,cheyne ,,fn4 #cj-99 l'esprit du corps changed to l'esprit de corps #dc 7,no4 #ecj47 changed to 7,no4 #ecj4997 #dh your enemies4' changed to your enemies4 #ef head47,no4 changed to head 7,no4 #fb ,,dial 7all caps7 changed to ,,dial 7small caps7 ,fn4 #ee-99 tools4 changed to tools4 ,fn4 #ff-99 pp4 #c4 #f4 changed to pp4 #c1 #f4 #gg made wtih changed to made with #hb ,and as now changed to ,and as now #he vigilant attention changed to vigilant attention4 #id eshallot changed to eschalot #if is delightful changed to is delightful4 #ih made 7,no4 #ahe99 changed to made 7,no4 #ahe ,fn4 #ia-99 ,no #ddj changed to ,no4 #ddj ,fn4 #ia- ,no4 #bii4 changed to ,no4 #bii1 ,fn4 #ib- acid milder changed to acid milder4 ,fn4 #ic- ,monsieur's remarks changed to ,monsieur's remarks1 #ajd eshalots1 changed to eschalots1 #aji eshalot changed to eschalot #aad table-spoonsful changed to table-spoonfuls #aah ,ham17,no4 #ad47 changed to ,ham1--7,no4 #ad47 #aah ,grimmed for table changed to ,trimmed for table #abj ,no4 #b of ,no4 #cfa changed to ,no4 #b of ,no4 #cfd #abc ,no4 #fg99 changed to ,no4 #ff99 #abf quarter changed to quarter4 ,fn4 #abc-99 ,ibid changed to ,ibid4 ,fn4 #abc-99 ,no4 #fg99 changed to ,no4 #ff99 #aed ,no4 #eba and ,no4 #ia changed to ,no4 #eba and ,no4 #ij #aeg escaloped4 changed to escalloped4 #agc 7,,no4 #ade7 changed to 7,no4 #ade7 #agi beshamell changed to bechamel #ahc ,no4 #fg4 changed to ,no4 #afg4 #aia note under ,no4 #ahe99 changed to note under ,no4 #ahe ,fn4 #afh-99 same uality changed to same quality #aie beef broth 7,no4 #ahe997 changed to beef broth 7,no4 #ahe7 #aie see ,no4 #cfd99 changed to see ,no4 #cfd #bja put in at changed to put in it #bjd into this soup4 changed to into this soup1 #bab ,no4 #e4 changed to ,no4 #e47 #bac 7,no4 #cbi47 changed to 7,no4 #bci47 ,fn4 #aic- ,the ,art of changed to ,the ,art of ,fn4 #bai-99 ,the footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was added4 ,fn4 #bbc- note under ,no4 #ahe99 changed to note under ,no4 #ahe #bdj with the onions changed to with the onions1 #bdi beef17as changed to beef1 7as #beg ,,nb4 ,to hash changed to ,n4,b4 ,to hash #beg minced ,veal changed to minced ,veal4 #beh ,white ,sauce4 changed to ,white ,sauce4-- #bfb to the rest changed to to the rest4 #bfc 7,no #cig7 changed to 7,no4 #cig7 #bge p4 #bjj changed to p4 #bjj4 #bha red1 c2 changed to red1 c42 #bib tea and changed to tea- and #bic into a mug4 changed to into a mug1 #bie bottled ale changed to bottled ale4 #bih ,jelly4#bih-99 changed to ,jelly4#bih-99-- #bii #b-a_/b;d4 changed to #b-a_/b;d4 ,fn4 #bgh-99 which is changed to 7which is #cjd beef1 c2 changed to beef1 c42 #cjg ,mutton ,broth1 changed to ,mutton ,broth1-- #cji foot of page #bff changed to foot of page #bbj #cae see ,nos4 #ahe99 changed to see ,nos4 #ahe #caf the cabbage4' changed to the cabbage4 #cag ,no4 #fg99 changed to ,no4 #ff99 #cbj wide1 i e4 changed to wide1 i4 e4 #cba 7,no4 #eah4 changed to 7,no4 #eah47 #cbe beans1 c changed to beans1 c4 #ccd accompanied by it4 changed to accompanied by it1 #cda ,gipsies' way4 changed to ,gipsies' way4-- #cdg for bakingare changed to for baking are #cec ,obs4 on ,health changed to ,obs4 on ,health ,fn4 #cjd-99 note to ,no4 #ebi changed to note to ,no4 #ebi99 ,fn4 #cad-99 mellow changed to mellow4 ,fn4 #cch- ,the night before changed to ,the night before #cef ,do do4 changed to ,do4 do4 7line below ,roasted 7,no4 #ce747 #cef ,broiled4 7,no4 #eba74 changed to ,broiled 7,no4 #eba74 #ceh ,wooodcock changed to ,woodcock #cei ,feb4 ,mar changed to ,feb4 ,mar4 7,broccoli line7 #cfa ,cut ,pastry changed to ,cut ,pastry4 #cfc ,no4 #dee changed to 7,no4 #dee #cgc ,no4 #dg changed to ,no4 #dg47 #chj 7,no4 #fi4 changed to 7,no4 #fi47 #daa private picking1 changed to private picking1 #dad fig #c changed to fig4 #c #dae cutting up of of changed to cutting up of #dah ,the rips may changed to ,the ribs may #dba ,under ,barley1 the second and third lines had missing text4 ,it was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed with another edition of the book4 ---- broth1 ---- ----1 #dbb 7,ap4 #aai7 changed to 7,ap4 #aai47 #dbc #ech199 #eci changed to #ech991 #eci #dbc tail filletted changed to tail filleted #dbd ,obs4 to #cgb #bfj changed to ,obs4 to #cgb #bfa #dbd ,eschalot sauce changed to ,eschalot sauce1 #dbd #chf ib changed to #chf ib4 #dbe ,sept ,heur s changed to ,sept ,heures #dbe note #bd changed to note #bc #dbf ,obs4 to #cgb #bfj changed to ,obs4 to #cgb #bfa #dbg note #ib changed to note #ia #dbg 7,ap4 #aba7 changed to 7,ap4 #aba47 #dbg c47,ap4 #g47 changed to c4 7,ap4 #g47 #dcj ,spinnage1 changed to ,spinage1 #dcj #cgh ib changed to #cgh ib4 #dcj #cgg ib changed to #cgg ib4 #dca ,birch s changed to ,birch's ,the following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated3 ,a-la-mode _/ ,alamode back-bone _/ backbone baine-marie _/ bainmarie _/ bain-marie bay-leaf _/ bay leaf beef-steak _/ beefsteak bif-teck _/ bifteck blanc-mange _/ blancmange chef-d'oeuvre _/ chef d'oeuvre cod-fish _/ codfish craw-fish _/ crawfish ,craw-fish _/ ,crawfish fire-place _/ fireplace ,espagnole _/ ,espagnol ,gourmandise _/ ,gourmandize hair-sieve _/ hair sieve half-pence _/ halfpence half-penny _/ halfpenny horse-radish _/ horseradish i4 e4 _/ i4 e4 lemon-peel _/ lemon peel mean time _/ meantime ,mem4 _/ ,,mem4 _/ ,mem4-- _/ ,,mem4-- merry-thought _/ merrythought morels _/ morells _/ morelles ,n4,b4 _/ ,n4 ,b4 obs4 _/ ,obs4 _/ obs4 _/ ,obs4 7in-paragraph references7 ,obs4 _/ ,obs4-- 7beginning of paragraph7 over-boiled _/ overboiled paste-board _/ pasteboard pepper-corns _/ peppercorns pyroligneous _/ pyro-ligneous re-dressed _/ redressed sauce-pan _/ saucepan sauce-pans _/ saucepans scallop _/ scollop scalloped _/ scolloped secundm _/ secundum sir-loin _/ sirloin spare-rib _/ sparerib stew-pan _/ stewpan stew-pans _/ stewpans sweet-breads _/ sweetbreads two-pence _/ twopence under-side _/ underside wine-glass _/ wineglass ,other inconsistencies3 ,the position of punctuation relative to close parentheses is not consistent4 ,in some cases1 it is inside the parentheses 7i4e4 27 or 177 and in other cases it is outside the parentheses 7i4e41 72 or 7174 ,this inconsistency has been maintained4 ,the position of the 99 and 4 in recipe numbers with 99 is inconsistent4 ,there is no fig4 #e in the section on carving4 ,other changes3 ,the marketing tables for meat 7pp4 #cee and #cef71 poultry 7pp4 #ceg and #ceh71 and vegetables 7pp4 #ceh and #cei7 were originally split into two pages because of their length4 ,each has been joined into a single table in this version of the book4