material from the ,google ,print project47 ,illustration3 ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,,our ,,italy ,,by ,,charles ,,dudley ,,warner ,author of ,their ,pilgrimage1 ,studies in the ,south and ,west1 ,a ,little ,journey in the ,world 444 ,with ,many ,illustrations ,illustration ,,new ,,york ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,franklin ,,square ,copyright1 #ahia1 by ,,harper ,,brothers4 ,all rights reserved4 ,,contents4 ,,chap4 ,,page ,i4 ,,how ,,our ,,italy ,,is ,,made #a ,,ii4 ,,our ,,climatic ,,and ,,commercial ,,mediterranean #aj ,,iii4 ,,early ,,vicissitudes4--,,productions4--,,sanit ary ,,climate #bd ,,iv4 ,,the ,,winter ,,of ,,our ,,content #db ,v4 ,,health ,,and ,,longevity #eb ,,vi4 ,,is ,,residence ,,here ,,agreeable8 #fe ,,vii4 ,,the ,,winter ,,on ,,the ,,coast #gb ,,viii4 ,,the ,,general ,,outlook4--,,land ,,and ,,prices #ij ,,ix4 ,,the ,,advantages ,,of ,,irrigation #ii ,x4 ,,the ,,chance ,,for ,,laborers ,,and ,,small ,,farmers #ajg ,,xi4 ,,some ,,details ,,of ,,the ,,wonderful ,,development #aad ,,xii4 ,,how ,,the ,,fruit ,,perils ,,were ,,met4--,,further ,,details ,,of ,,localities #abh ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,advance ,,of ,,cultivation ,,southward #adj ,,xiv4 ,a ,,land ,,of ,,agreeable ,,homes #adf ,,xv4 ,,some ,,wonders ,,by ,,the ,,way4--,,yosemite4--,,mariposa ,,trees4--,,monterey #adh ,,xvi4 ,,fascinations ,,of ,,the ,,desert4--,,the ,,laguna ,,pueblo #afc ,,xvii4 ,,the ,,heart ,,of ,,the ,,desert #agg ,,xviii4 ,,on ,,the ,,brink ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,ca,,on4--,,the ,,unique ,,marvel ,,of ,,nature #ahi ,,appendix #bja ,,index #bai ,,illustrations4 ,,santa ,,barbara ,frontispiece ,,page ,,mojave ,,desert #c ,,mojave ,,indian #d ,,mojave ,,indian #e ,,bird',s-,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,riverside #g ,,scene ,,in ,,san ,,bernardino #aa ,,scenes ,,in ,,montecito ,,and ,,los ,,angeles #ac ,,fan-,,palm1 ,,los ,,angeles #af ,,yucca-,,palm1 ,,santa ,,barbara #ag ,,magnolia ,,avenue1 ,,riverside #ba ,,avenue ,,los ,,angeles #bg ,,in ,,the ,,garden ,,at ,,santa ,,barbara ,,mission #ca ,,scene ,,at ,,pasadena #ce ,,live-,,oak ,,near ,,los ,,angeles #ci ,,midwinter1 ,,pasadena #ec ,a ,,typical ,,garden1 ,,near ,,santa ,,ana #eg ,,old ,,adobe ,,house1 ,,pomona #fa ,,fan-,,palm1 ,,fernando ,,st4 ,,los ,,angeles #fc ,,scarlet ,,passion-,,vine #fh ,,rose-,,bush1 ,,santa ,,barbara #gc ,,at ,,avalon1 ,,santa ,,catalina ,,island #gg ,,hotel ,,del ,,coronado #hc ,,ostrich ,,yard1 ,,coronado ,,beach #hf ,,yucca-,,palm #ib ,,date-,,palm #ic ,,raisin-,,curing #aja ,,irrigation ,,by ,,artesian-,,well ,,system #ajd ,,irrigation ,,by ,,pipe ,,system #aje ,,garden ,,scene1 ,,santa ,,ana #aaj ,a ,,grape-,,vine1 ,,montecito ,,valley1 ,,santa ,,barbara #aaf ,,irrigating ,,an ,,orchard #abj ,,orange ,,culture #aba ,,in ,a ,,field ,,of ,,golden ,,pumpkins #abf ,,packing ,,cherries1 ,,pomona #aca ,,olive-,,trees ,,six ,,years ,,old #acf ,,sexton ,,nurseries1 ,,near ,,santa ,,barbara #ada ,,sweetwater ,,dam #add ,,the ,,yosemite ,,dome #aea ,,coast ,,of ,,monterey #aee ,,cypress ,,point #aef ,,near ,,seal ,,rock #aeg ,,laguna--,,from ,,the ,,south-,,east #aei ,,church ,,at ,,laguna #afd ,,terraced ,,houses1 ,,pueblo ,,of ,,laguna #afg ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,on ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,from ,,point ,,sublime #aga ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,at ,,laguna #agd ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,of ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,opposite ,,point ,,sublime #agi ,,tourists ,,in ,,the ,,colorado ,,ca,,on #ahc ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,of ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,from ,,the ,,hanse ,,trail #aia ,,our ,,italy4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,how ,,our ,,italy ,,is ,,made4 ,the traveller who descends into ,italy by an ,alpine pass never forgets the surprise and delight of the transition4 ,in an hour he is whirled down the slopes from the region of eternal snow to the verdure of spring or the ripeness of summer4 ,suddenly--it may be at a turn in the road--winter is left behind2 the plains of ,lombardy are in view2 the ,lake of ,como or ,maggiore gleams below2 there is a tree2 there is an orchard2 there is a garden2 there is a villa overrun with vines2 the singing of birds is heard2 the air is gracious2 the slopes are terraced1 and covered with vineyards2 great sheets of silver sheen in the landscape mark the growth of the olive2 the dark green orchards of oranges and lemons are starred with gold2 the lusty fig1 always a temptation as of old1 leans invitingly over the stone wall2 everywhere are bloom and color under the blue sky2 there are shrines by the way-side1 chapels on the hill2 one hears the melodious bells1 the call of the vine-dressers1 the laughter of girls4 ,the contrast is as great from the ,indians of the ,mojave ,desert1 two types of which are here given1 to the vine-dressers of the ,santa ,ana ,valley4 ,italy is the land of the imagination1 but the sensation on first beholding it from the northern heights1 aside from its associations of romance and poetry1 can be repeated in our own land by whoever will cross the burning desert of ,colorado1 or the savage wastes of the ,mojave wilderness of stone and sage-brush1 and come suddenly1 as he must come by train1 into the bloom of ,southern ,california4 ,let us study a little the physical conditions4 ,the bay of ,san ,diego is about three hundred miles east of ,san ,francisco4 ,the coast line runs south-east1 but at ,point ,conception it turns sharply east1 and then curves south-easterly about two hundred and fifty miles to the ,mexican coast boundary1 the extreme south-west limits of the ,united ,states1 a few miles below ,san ,diego4 ,this coast1 defined by these two limits1 has a southern exposure on the sunniest of oceans4 ,off this coast1 south of ,point ,conception1 lies a chain of islands1 curving in position in conformity with the shore1 at a distance of twenty to seventy miles from the main-land4 ,these islands are ,san ,miguel1 ,santa ,rosa1 ,santa ,cruz1 ,anacapa1 ,santa ,barbara1 ,san ,nicolas1 ,santa ,catalina1 ,san ,clemente1 and ,los ,coronados1 which lie in ,mexican waters4 ,between this chain of islands and the main-land is ,santa ,barbara ,channel1 flowing northward4 ,the great ocean current from the north flows past ,point ,conception like a mill-race1 and makes a suction1 or a sort of eddy4 ,it approaches nearer the coast in ,lower ,california1 where the return current1 which is much warmer1 flows northward and westward along the curving shore4 ,the ,santa ,barbara ,channel1 which may be called an arm of the ,pacific1 flows by many a bold point and lovely bay1 like those of ,san ,pedro1 ,redondo1 and ,santa ,monica2 but it has no secure harbor1 except the magnificent and unique bay of ,san ,diego4 ,illustration3 ,,mojave ,,desert4 ,the southern and western boundary of ,southern ,california is this mild ,pacific sea1 studded with rocky and picturesque islands4 ,the northern boundary of this region is ranges of lofty mountains1 from five thousand to eleven thousand feet in height1 some of them always snow-clad1 which run eastward from ,point ,conception nearly to the ,colorado ,desert4 ,they are parts of the ,sierra ,nevada range1 but they take various names1 ,santa ,ynes1 ,san ,gabriel1 ,san ,bernardino1 and they are spoken of all together as the ,sierra ,madre4 ,in the ,san ,gabriel group1 ,old ,baldy lifts its snow-peak over nine thousand feet1 while the ,san ,bernardino ,grayback rises over eleven thousand feet above the sea4 ,southward of this1 running down into ,san ,diego ,county1 is the ,san ,jacinto range1 also snow-clad2 and eastward the land falls rapidly away into the ,salt ,desert of the ,colorado1 in which is a depression about three hundred feet below the ,pacific4 ,illustration ,the ,point ,arguilles1 which is above ,point ,conception1 by the aid of the outlying islands1 deflects the cold current from the north off the coast of ,southern ,california1 and the mountain ranges from ,point ,conception east divide the ,state of ,california into two climatic regions1 the southern having more warmth1 less rain and fog1 milder winds1 and less variation of daily temperature than the climate of ,central ,california to the north4,a ,other striking climatic conditions are produced by the daily interaction of the ,pacific ,ocean and the ,colorado ,desert1 infinitely diversified in minor particulars by the exceedingly broken character of the region--a jumble of bare mountains1 fruitful foot-hills1 and rich valleys4 ,it would be only from a balloon that one could get an adequate idea of this strange land4 ,footnote ,a3 ,for these and other observations upon physical and climatic conditions ,i am wholly indebted to ,dr4 ,p4 ,c4 ,remondino and ,mr4 ,t4 ,s4 ,van ,dyke1 of ,san ,diego1 both scientific and competent authorities4 ,the ,united ,states has here1 then1 a unique corner of the earth1 without its like in its own vast territory1 and unparalleled1 so far as ,i know1 in the world4 ,shut off from sympathy with external conditions by the giant mountain ranges and the desert wastes1 it has its own climate unaffected by cosmic changes4 ,except a tidal wave from ,japan1 nothing would seem to be able to affect or disturb it4 ,the whole of ,italy feels more or less the climatic variations of the rest of ,europe4 ,all our ,atlantic coast1 all our interior basin from ,texas to ,manitoba1 is in climatic sympathy4 ,here is a region larger than ,new ,england which manufactures its own weather and refuses to import any other4 ,illustration ,with considerable varieties of temperature according to elevation or protection from the ocean breeze1 its climate is nearly1 on the whole1 as agreeable as that of the ,hawaiian ,islands1 though pitched in a lower key1 and with greater variations between day and night4 ,the key to its peculiarity1 aside from its southern exposure1 is the ,colorado ,desert4 ,that desert1 waterless and treeless1 is cool at night and intolerably hot in the daytime1 sending up a vast column of hot air1 which cannot escape eastward1 for ,arizona manufactures a like column4 ,it flows high above the mountains westward till it strikes the ,pacific and parts with its heat1 creating an immense vacuum which is filled by the air from the coast flowing up the slope and over the range1 and plunging down #fjjj feet into the desert4 ,it is easy to understand1 says ,mr4 ,van ,dyke1 making his observations from the summit of the ,cuyamaca1 in ,san ,diego ,county1 #fejj feet above the sea-level1 how land thus rising a mile or more in fifty or sixty miles1 rising away from the coast1 and falling off abruptly a mile deep into the driest and hottest of ,american deserts1 could have a great variety of climates4444 ,only ten miles away on the east the summers are the hottest1 and only sixty miles on the west the coolest known in the ,united ,states 7except on this coast71 and between them is every combination that mountains and valleys can produce4 ,and it is easy to see whence comes the sea-breeze1 the glory of the ,california summer4 ,it is passing us here1 a gentle breeze of six or eight miles an hour4 ,it is flowing over this great ridge directly into the basin of the ,colorado ,desert1 #fjjj feet deep1 where the temperature is probably #abj1 and perhaps higher4 ,for many leagues each side of us this current is thus flowing at the same speed1 and is probably half a mile or more in depth4 ,about sundown1 when the air on the desert cools and descends1 the current will change and come the other way1 and flood these western slopes with an air as pure as that of the ,sahara and nearly as dry4 ,illustration3 ,,bird',s-,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,riverside4 ,the air1 heated on the western slopes by the sea1 would by rising produce considerable suction1 which could be filled only from the sea1 but that alone would not make the sea-breeze as dry as it is4 ,the principal suction is caused by the rising of heated air from the great desert4444 ,on the top of old ,grayback 7in ,san ,bernardino7 one can feel it this breeze setting westward1 while in the caons1 #fjjj feet below1 it is blowing eastward4444 ,all over ,southern ,california the conditions of this breeze are about the same1 the great ,mojave ,desert and the valley of the ,san ,joaquin above operating in the same way1 assisted by interior plains and slopes4 ,hence these deserts1 that at first seem to be a disadvantage to the land1 are the great conditions of its climate1 and are of far more value than if they were like the prairies of ,illinois4 ,fortunately they will remain deserts forever4 ,some parts will in time be reclaimed by the waters of the ,colorado ,river1 but wet spots of a few hundred thousand acres would be too trifling to affect general results1 for millions of acres of burning desert would forever defy all attempts at irrigation or settlement4 ,this desert-born breeze explains a seeming anomaly in regard to the humidity of this coast4 ,i have noticed on the sea-shore that salt does not become damp on the table1 that the ,portuguese fishermen on ,point ,loma are drying their fish on the shore1 and that while the hydrometer gives a humidity as high as seventy-four1 and higher at times1 and fog may prevail for three or four days continuously1 the fog is rather dry1 and the general impression is that of a dry instead of the damp and chilling atmosphere such as exists in foggy times on the ,atlantic coast4 ,from the study of the origin of this breeze we see1 says ,mr4 ,van ,dyke1 why it is that a wind coming from the broad ,pacific should be drier than the dry land-breezes of the ,atlantic ,states1 causing no damp walls1 swelling doors1 or rusting guns1 and even on the coast drying up1 without salt or soda1 meat cut in strips an inch thick and fish much thicker4 ,at times on the coast the air contains plenty of moisture1 but with the rising of this breeze the moisture decreases instead of increases4 ,it should be said also that this constantly returning current of air is always pure1 coming in contact nowhere with marshy or malarious influences nor any agency injurious to health4 ,its character causes the whole coast from ,santa ,barbara to ,san ,diego to be an agreeable place of residence or resort summer and winter1 while its daily inflowing tempers the heat of the far inland valleys to a delightful atmosphere in the shade even in midsummer1 while cool nights are everywhere the rule4 ,the greatest surprise of the traveller is that a region which is in perpetual bloom and fruitage1 where semi-tropical fruits mature in perfection1 and the most delicate flowers dazzle the eye with color the winter through1 should have on the whole a low temperature1 a climate never enervating1 and one requiring a dress of woollen in every month4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,our ,,climatic ,,and ,,commercial ,,mediterranean4 ,winter as we understand it east of the ,rockies does not exist4 ,i scarcely know how to divide the seasons4 ,there are at most but three4 ,spring may be said to begin with ,december and end in ,april2 summer1 with ,may 7whose days1 however1 are often cooler than those of ,january71 and end with ,september2 while ,october and ,november are a mild autumn1 when nature takes a partial rest1 and the leaves of the deciduous trees are gone4 ,but how shall we classify a climate in which the strawberry 7none yet in my experience equal to the ,eastern berry7 may be eaten in every month of the year1 and ripe figs may be picked from ,july to ,march8 ,what shall ,i say of a frost 7an affair of only an hour just before sunrise7 which is hardly anywhere severe enough to disturb the delicate heliotrope1 and even in the deepest valleys where it may chill the orange1 will respect the bloom of that fruit on contiguous ground fifty or a hundred feet higher8 ,we boast about many things in the ,united ,states1 about our blizzards and our cyclones1 our inundations and our areas of low pressure1 our hottest and our coldest places in the world1 but what can we say for this little corner which is practically frostless1 and yet never had a sunstroke1 knows nothing of thunder-storms and lightning1 never experienced a cyclone1 which is so warm that the year round one is tempted to live out-of-doors1 and so cold that woollen garments are never uncomfortable8 ,nature here1 in this protected and petted area1 has the knack of being genial without being enervating1 of being stimulating without bracing a person into the tomb4 ,i think it conducive to equanimity of spirit and to longevity to sit in an orange grove and eat the fruit and inhale the fragrance of it while gazing upon a snow-mountain4 ,illustration3 ,,scene ,,in ,,san ,,bernardino4 ,this southward-facing portion of ,california is irrigated by many streams of pure water rapidly falling from the mountains to the sea4 ,the more important are the ,santa ,clara1 the ,los ,angeles and ,san ,gabriel1 the ,santa ,ana1 the ,santa ,margarita1 the ,san ,luis ,rey1 the ,san ,bernardo1 the ,san ,diego1 and1 on the ,mexican border1 the ,tia ,juana4 ,many of them go dry or flow underground in the summer months 7or1 as the ,californians say1 the bed of the river gets on top71 but most of them can be used for artificial irrigation4 ,in the lowlands water is sufficiently near the surface to moisten the soil1 which is broken and cultivated2 in most regions good wells are reached at a small depth1 in others artesian-wells spout up abundance of water1 and considerable portions of the regions best known for fruit are watered by irrigating ditches and pipes supplied by ample reservoirs in the mountains4 ,from natural rainfall and the sea moisture the mesas and hills1 which look arid before ploughing1 produce large crops of grain when cultivated after the annual rains1 without artificial watering4 ,southern ,california has been slowly understood even by its occupants1 who have wearied the world with boasting of its productiveness4 ,originally it was a vast cattle and sheep ranch4 ,it was supposed that the land was worthless except for grazing4 ,held in princely ranches of twenty1 fifty1 one hundred thousand acres1 in some cases areas larger than ,german principalities1 tens of thousands of cattle roamed along the watercourses and over the mesas1 vast flocks of sheep cropped close the grass and trod the soil into hard-pan4 ,the owners exchanged cattle and sheep for corn1 grain1 and garden vegetables2 they had no faith that they could grow cereals1 and it was too much trouble to procure water for a garden or a fruit orchard4 ,it was the firm belief that most of the rolling mesa land was unfit for cultivation1 and that neither forest nor fruit trees would grow without irrigation4 ,between ,los ,angeles and ,redondo ,beach is a ranch of #ce1jjj acres4 ,seventeen years ago it was owned by a ,scotchman1 who used the whole of it as a sheep ranch4 ,in selling it to the present owner he warned him not to waste time by attempting to farm it2 he himself raised no fruit or vegetables1 planted no trees1 and bought all his corn1 wheat1 and barley4 ,the purchaser1 however1 began to experiment4 ,he planted trees and set out orchards which grew1 and in a couple of years he wrote to the former owner that he had #hjjj acres in fine wheat4 ,to say it in a word1 there is scarcely an acre of the tract which is not highly productive in barley1 wheat1 corn1 potatoes1 while considerable parts of it are especially adapted to the ,english walnut and to the citrus fruits4 ,illustration3 ,,scenes ,,in ,,montecito ,,and ,,los ,,angeles4 ,on this route to the sea the road is lined with gardens4 ,nothing could be more unpromising in appearance than this soil before it is ploughed and pulverized by the cultivator4 ,it looks like a barren waste4 ,we passed a tract that was offered three years ago for twelve dollars an acre4 ,some of it now is rented to ,chinamen at thirty dollars an acre2 and ,i saw one field of two acres off which a ,chinaman has sold in one season #gej worth of cabbages4 ,the truth is that almost all the land is wonderfully productive if intelligently handled4 ,the low ground has water so near the surface that the pulverized soil will draw up sufficient moisture for the crops2 the mesa1 if sown and cultivated after the annual rains1 matures grain and corn1 and sustains vines and fruit-trees4 ,it is singular that the first settlers should never have discovered this productiveness4 ,when it became apparent--that is1 productiveness without artificial watering--there spread abroad a notion that irrigation generally was not needed4 ,we shall have occasion to speak of this more in detail1 and ,i will now only say1 on good authority1 that while cultivation1 not to keep down the weeds only1 but to keep the soil stirred and prevent its baking1 is the prime necessity for almost all land in ,southern ,california1 there are portions where irrigation is always necessary1 and there is no spot where the yield of fruit or grain will not be quadrupled by judicious irrigation4 ,there are places where irrigation is excessive and harmful both to the quality and quantity of oranges and grapes4 ,the history of the extension of cultivation in the last twenty and especially in the past ten years from the foot-hills of the ,sierra ,madre in ,los ,angeles and ,san ,bernardino counties southward to ,san ,diego is very curious4 ,experiments were timidly tried4 ,every acre of sand and sage-bush reclaimed southward was supposed to be the last capable of profitable farming or fruit-growing4 ,it is unsafe now to say of any land that has not been tried that it is not good4 ,in every valley and on every hill-side1 on the mesas and in the sunny nooks in the mountains1 nearly anything will grow1 and the application of water produces marvellous results4 ,from ,san ,bernardino and ,redlands1 ,riverside1 ,pomona1 ,ontario1 ,santa ,anita1 ,san ,gabriel1 ,pasadena1 all the way to ,los ,angeles1 is almost a continuous fruit garden1 the green areas only emphasized by wastes yet unreclaimed2 a land of charming cottages1 thriving towns1 hospitable to the fruit of every clime2 a land of perpetual sun and ever-flowing breeze1 looked down on by purple mountain ranges tipped here and there with enduring snow4 ,and what is in progress here will be seen before long in almost every part of this wonderful land1 for conditions of soil and climate are essentially everywhere the same1 and capital is finding out how to store in and bring from the fastnesses of the mountains rivers of clear water taken at such elevations that the whole arable surface can be irrigated4 ,the development of the country has only just begun4 ,illustration3 ,,fan-,,palm1 ,,los ,,angeles4 ,illustration3 ,,yucca-,,palm1 ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,if the reader will look upon the map of ,california he will see that the eight counties that form ,southern ,california--,san ,luis ,obispo1 ,santa ,barbara1 ,ventura1 ,kern1 ,los ,angeles1 ,san ,bernardino1 ,orange1 and ,san ,diego--appear very mountainous4 ,he will also notice that the eastern slopes of ,san ,bernardino and ,san ,diego are deserts4 ,but this is an immense area4 ,san ,diego ,county alone is as large as ,massachusetts1 ,connecticut1 and ,rhode ,island combined1 and the amount of arable land in the valleys1 on the foot-hills1 on the rolling mesas1 is enormous1 and capable of sustaining a dense population1 for its fertility and its yield to the acre under cultivation are incomparable4 ,the reader will also notice another thing4 ,with the railroads now built and certain to be built through all this diversified region1 round from the ,santa ,barbara ,mountains to the ,san ,bernardino1 the ,san ,jacinto1 and down to ,cuyamaca1 a ride of an hour or two hours brings one to some point on the #bej miles of sea-coast--a sea-coast genial1 inviting in winter and summer1 never harsh1 and rarely tempestuous like the ,atlantic shore4 ,here is our ,mediterranean6 ,here is our ,italy6 ,it is a ,mediterranean without marshes and without malaria1 and it does not at all resemble the ,mexican ,gulf1 which we have sometimes tried to fancy was like the classic sea that laves ,africa and ,europe4 ,nor is this region ,italian in appearance1 though now and then some bay with its purple hills running to the blue sea1 its surrounding mesas and caons blooming in semi-tropical luxuriance1 some conjunction of shore and mountain1 some golden color1 some white light and sharply defined shadows1 some refinement of lines1 some poetic tints in violet and ashy ranges1 some ultramarine in the sea1 or delicate blue in the sky1 will remind the traveller of more than one place of beauty in ,southern ,italy and ,sicily4 ,it is a ,mediterranean with a more equable climate1 warmer winters and cooler summers1 than the ,north ,mediterranean shore can offer2 it is an ,italy whose mountains and valleys give almost every variety of elevation and temperature4 ,but it is our commercial ,mediterranean4 ,the time is not distant when this corner of the ,united ,states will produce in abundance1 and year after year without failure1 all the fruits and nuts which for a thousand years the civilized world of ,europe has looked to the ,mediterranean to supply4 ,we shall not need any more to send over the ,atlantic for raisins1 ,english walnuts1 almonds1 figs1 olives1 prunes1 oranges1 lemons1 limes1 and a variety of other things which we know commercially as ,mediterranean products4 ,we have all this luxury and wealth at our doors1 within our limits4 ,the orange and the lemon we shall still bring from many places2 the date and the pineapple and the banana will never grow here except as illustrations of the climate1 but it is difficult to name any fruit of the temperate and semi-tropic zones that ,southern ,california cannot be relied on to produce1 from the guava to the peach4 ,it will need further experiment to determine what are the more profitable products of this soil1 and it will take longer experience to cultivate them and send them to market in perfection4 ,the pomegranate and the apple thrive side by side1 but the apple is not good here unless it is grown at an elevation where frost is certain and occasional snow may be expected4 ,there is no longer any doubt about the peach1 the nectarine1 the pear1 the grape1 the orange1 the lemon1 the apricot1 and so on2 but ,i believe that the greatest profit will be in the products that cannot be grown elsewhere in the ,united ,states--the products to which we have long given the name of ,mediterranean--the olive1 the fig1 the raisin1 the hard and soft shell almond1 and the walnut4 ,the orange will of course be a staple1 and constantly improve its reputation as better varieties are raised1 and the right amount of irrigation to produce the finest and sweetest is ascertained4 ,it is still a wonder that a land in which there was no indigenous product of value1 or to which cultivation could give value1 should be so hospitable to every sort of tree1 shrub1 root1 grain1 and flower that can be brought here from any zone and temperature1 and that many of these foreigners to the soil grow here with a vigor and productiveness surpassing those in their native land4 ,this bewildering adaptability has misled many into unprofitable experiments1 and the very rapidity of growth has been a disadvantage4 ,the land has been advertised by its monstrous vegetable productions1 which are not fit to eat1 and but testify to the fertility of the soil2 and the reputation of its fruits1 both deciduous and citrus1 has suffered by specimens sent to ,eastern markets whose sole recommendation was size4 ,even in the vineyards and orange orchards quality has been sacrificed to quantity4 ,nature here responds generously to every encouragement1 but it cannot be forced without taking its revenge in the return of inferior quality4 ,it is just as true of ,southern ,california as of any other land1 that hard work and sagacity and experience are necessary to successful horticulture and agriculture1 but it is undeniably true that the same amount of well-directed industry upon a much smaller area of land will produce more return than in almost any other section of the ,united ,states4 ,sensible people do not any longer pay much attention to those tempting little arithmetical sums by which it is demonstrated that paying so much for ten acres of barren land1 and so much for planting it with vines or oranges1 the income in three years will be a competence to the investor and his family4 ,people do not spend much time now in gaping over abnormal vegetables1 or trying to convince themselves that wines of every known variety and flavor can be produced within the limits of one flat and well-watered field4 ,few now expect to make a fortune by cutting arid land up into twenty-feet lots1 but notwithstanding the extravagance of recent speculation1 the value of arable land has steadily appreciated1 and is not likely to recede1 for the return from it1 either in fruits1 vegetables1 or grain1 is demonstrated to be beyond the experience of farming elsewhere4 ,illustration3 ,,magnolia ,,avenue1 ,,riverside4 ,land cannot be called dear at one hundred or one thousand dollars an acre if the annual return from it is fifty or five hundred dollars4 ,the climate is most agreeable the year through4 ,there are no unpleasant months1 and few unpleasant days4 ,the eucalyptus grows so fast that the trimmings from the trees of a small grove or highway avenue will in four or five years furnish a family with its firewood4 ,the strong1 fattening alfalfa gives three1 four1 five1 and even six harvests a year4 ,nature needs little rest1 and1 with the encouragement of water and fertilizers1 apparently none4 ,but all this prodigality and easiness of life detracts a little from ambition4 ,the lesson has been slowly learned1 but it is now pretty well conned1 that hard work is as necessary here as elsewhere to thrift and independence4 ,the difference between this and many other parts of our land is that nature seems to work with a man1 and not against him4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,early ,,vicissitudes4--,,productions4--,,sanit ary ,,climate4 ,southern ,california has rapidly passed through varied experiences1 and has not yet had a fair chance to show the world what it is4 ,it had its period of romance1 of pastoral life1 of lawless adventure1 of crazy speculation1 all within a hundred years1 and it is just now entering upon its period of solid1 civilized development4 ,a certain light of romance is cast upon this coast by the ,spanish voyagers of the sixteenth century1 but its history begins with the establishment of the chain of ,franciscan missions1 the first of which was founded by the great ,father ,junipero ,serra at ,san ,diego in #agfi4 ,the fathers brought with them the vine and the olive1 reduced the savage ,indians to industrial pursuits1 and opened the way for that ranchero and adobe civilization which1 down to the coming of the ,american1 in about #ahdj1 made in this region the most picturesque life that our continent has ever seen4 ,following this is a period of desperado adventure and revolution1 of pioneer ,state-building2 and then the advent of the restless1 the cranky1 the invalid1 the fanatic1 from every other ,state in the ,union4 ,the first experimenters in making homes seem to have fancied that they had come to a ready-made elysium--the idle man's heaven4 ,they seem to have brought with them little knowledge of agriculture or horticulture1 were ignorant of the conditions of success in this soil and climate1 and left behind the good industrial maxims of the ,east4 ,the result was a period of chance experiment1 one in which extravagant expectation and boasting to some extent took the place of industry4 ,the imagination was heated by the novelty of such varied and rapid productiveness4 ,men's minds were inflamed by the apparently limitless possibilities4 ,the invalid and the speculator thronged the transcontinental roads leading thither4 ,in this condition the frenzy of #ahhf-hg was inevitable4 ,i saw something of it in the winter of #ahhg4 ,the scenes then daily and commonplace now read like the wildest freaks of the imagination4 ,the bubble collapsed as suddenly as it expanded4 ,many were ruined1 and left the country4 ,more were merely ruined in their great expectations4 ,the speculation was in town lots4 ,when it subsided it left the climate as it was1 the fertility as it was1 and the value of arable land not reduced4 ,marvellous as the boom was1 ,i think the present recuperation is still more wonderful4 ,in #ahij1 to be sure1 ,i miss the bustle of the cities1 and the creation of towns in a week under the hammer of the auctioneer4 ,but in all the cities1 and most of the villages1 there has been growth in substantial buildings1 and in the necessities of civic life--good sewerage1 water supply1 and general organization2 while the country1 as the acreage of vines and oranges1 wheat and barley1 grain and corn1 and the shipments by rail testify1 has improved more than at any other period1 and commerce is beginning to feel the impulse of a genuine prosperity1 based upon the intelligent cultivation of the ground4 ,school-houses have multiplied2 libraries have been founded2 many boom hotels1 built in order to sell city lots in the sage-brush1 have been turned into schools and colleges4 ,there is immense rivalry between different sections4 ,every ,californian thinks that the spot where his house stands enjoys the best climate and is the most fertile in the world2 and while you are with him you think he is justified in his opinion2 for this rivalry is generally a wholesome one1 backed by industry4 ,i do not mean to say that the habit of tall talk is altogether lost4 ,whatever one sees he is asked to believe is the largest and best in the world4 ,the gentleman of the whip who showed us some of the finest places in ,los ,angeles--places that in their wealth of flowers and semi-tropical gardens would rouse the enthusiasm of the most jaded traveller--was asked whether there were any finer in the city4 ,finer8 ,hundreds of them2 and then1 meditatively and regretfully1 ,i should not dare to show you the best4 ,the semi-ecclesiastical custodian of the old adobe mission of ,san ,gabriel explained to us the twenty portraits of apostles on the walls1 all done by ,murillo4 ,as they had got out of repair1 he had them all repainted by the best artist4 ,that one1 he said1 simply1 cost ten dollars4 ,it often costs more to repaint a picture than to buy an original4 ,the temporary evils in the train of the boom are fast disappearing4 ,i was told that ,i should find the country stagnant4 ,trade1 it is true1 is only slowly coming in1 real-estate deals are sleeping1 but in all avenues of solid prosperity and productiveness the country is the reverse of stagnant4 ,another misapprehension this visit is correcting4 ,i was told not to visit ,southern ,california at this season on account of the heat4 ,but ,i have no experience of a more delightful summer climate than this1 especially on or near the coast4 ,illustration3 ,,avenue ,,los ,,angeles4 ,in secluded valleys in the interior the thermometer rises in the daytime to #he1 #ij1 and occasionally #ajj1 but ,i have found no place in them where there was not daily a refreshing breeze from the ocean1 where the dryness of the air did not make the heat seem much less than it was1 and where the nights were not agreeably cool4 ,my belief is that the summer climate of ,southern ,california is as desirable for pleasure-seekers1 for invalids1 for workmen1 as its winter climate4 ,it seems to me that a coast temperature #fj to #ge1 stimulating1 without harshness or dampness1 is about the perfection of summer weather4 ,it should be said1 however1 that there are secluded valleys which become very hot in the daytime in midsummer1 and intolerably dusty4 ,the dust is the great annoyance everywhere4 ,it gives the whole landscape an ashy tint1 like some of our ,eastern fields and way-sides in a dry ,august4 ,the verdure and the wild flowers of the rainy season disappear entirely4 ,there is1 however1 some picturesque compensation for this dust and lack of green4 ,the mountains and hills and great plains take on wonderful hues of brown1 yellow1 and red4 ,i write this paragraph in a high chamber in the ,hotel del ,coronado1 on the great and fertile beach in front of ,san ,diego4 ,it is the #b;d of ,june4 ,looking southward1 ,i see the great expanse of the ,pacific ,ocean1 sparkling in the sun as blue as the waters at ,amalfi4 ,a low surf beats along the miles and miles of white sand continually1 with the impetus of far-off seas and trade-winds1 as it has beaten for thousands of years1 with one unending roar and swish1 and occasional shocks of sound as if of distant thunder on the shore4 ,yonder1 to the right1 ,point ,loma stretches its sharp and rocky promontory into the ocean1 purple in the sun1 bearing a light-house on its highest elevation4 ,from this signal1 bending in a perfect crescent1 with a silver rim1 the shore sweeps around twenty-five miles to another promontory running down beyond ,tia ,juana to the ,point of ,rocks1 in ,mexican territory4 ,directly in front--they say eighteen miles away1 ,i think five sometimes1 and sometimes a hundred--lie the islands of ,coronado1 named1 ,i suppose1 from the old ,spanish adventurer ,vasques de ,coronado1 huge bulks of beautiful red sandstone1 uninhabited and barren1 becalmed there in the changing blue of sky and sea1 like enormous mastless galleons1 like degraded icebergs1 like ,capri and ,ischia4 ,they say that they are stationary4 ,i only know that when ,i walk along the shore towards ,point ,loma they seem to follow1 until they lie opposite the harbor entrance1 which is close by the promontory2 and that when ,i return1 they recede and go away towards ,mexico1 to which they belong4 ,sometimes1 as seen from the beach1 owing to the difference in the humidity of the strata of air over the ocean1 they seem smaller at the bottom than at the top4 ,occasionally they come quite near1 as do the sea-lions and the gulls1 and again they almost fade out of the horizon in a violet light4 ,this morning they stand away1 and the fleet of white-sailed fishing-boats from the ,portuguese hamlet of ,la ,playa1 within the harbor entrance1 which is dancing off ,point ,loma1 will have a long sail if they pursue the barracuda to those shadowy rocks4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,,the ,,garden ,,at ,,santa ,,barbara ,,mission4 ,we crossed the bay the other day1 and drove up a wild road to the height of the promontory1 and along its narrow ridge to the light-house4 ,this site commands one of the most remarkable views in the accessible civilized world1 one of the three or four really great prospects which the traveller can recall1 astonishing in its immensity1 interesting in its peculiar details4 ,the general features are the great ocean1 blue1 flecked with sparkling1 breaking wavelets1 and the wide1 curving coast-line1 rising into mesas1 foot-hills1 ranges on ranges of mountains1 the faintly seen snow-peaks of ,san ,bernardino and ,san ,jacinto to the ,cuyamaca and the flat top of ,table ,mountain in ,mexico4 ,directly under us on one side are the fields of kelp1 where the whales come to feed in winter2 and on the other is a point of sand on ,coronado ,beach1 where a flock of pelicans have assembled after their day's fishing1 in which occupation they are the rivals of the ,portuguese4 ,the perfect crescent of the ocean beach is seen1 the singular formation of ,north and ,south ,coronado ,beach1 the entrance to the harbor along ,point ,loma1 and the spacious inner bay1 on which lie ,san ,diego and ,national ,city1 with lowlands and heights outside sprinkled with houses1 gardens1 orchards1 and vineyards4 ,the near hills about this harbor are varied in form and poetic in color1 one of them1 the conical ,san ,miguel1 constantly recalling ,vesuvius4 ,indeed1 the near view1 in color1 vegetation1 and forms of hills and extent of arable land1 suggests that of ,naples1 though on analysis it does not resemble it4 ,if ,san ,diego had half a million of people it would be more like it2 but the ,naples view is limited1 while this stretches away to the great mountains that overlook the ,colorado ,desert4 ,it is certainly one of the loveliest prospects in the world1 and worth long travel to see4 ,standing upon this point of view1 ,i am reminded again of the striking contrasts and contiguous different climates on the coast4 ,in the north1 of course not visible from here1 is ,mount ,whitney1 on the borders of ,inyo ,county and of the ,state of ,nevada1 #ae1jhf feet above the sea1 the highest peak in the ,united ,states1 excluding ,alaska4 ,south of it is ,grayback1 in the ,san ,bernardino range1 #aa1jjj feet in altitude1 the highest point above its base in the ,united ,states4 ,while south of that is the depression in the ,colorado ,desert in ,san ,diego ,county1 about three hundred feet below the level of the ,pacific ,ocean1 the lowest land in the ,united ,states4 ,these three exceptional points can be said to be almost in sight of each other4 ,illustration3 ,,scene ,,at ,,pasadena4 ,i have insisted so much upon the ,mediterranean character of this region that it is necessary to emphasize the contrasts also4 ,reserving details and comments on different localities as to the commercial value of products and climatic conditions1 ,i will make some general observations4 ,i am convinced that the fig can not only be grown here in sufficient quantity to supply our markets1 but of the best quality4 ,the same may be said of the ,english walnut4 ,this clean and handsome tree thrives wonderfully in large areas1 and has no enemies4 ,the olive culture is in its infancy1 but ,i have never tasted better oil than that produced at ,santa ,barbara and on ,san ,diego ,bay4 ,specimens of the pickled olive are delicious1 and when the best varieties are generally grown1 and the best method of curing is adopted1 it will be in great demand1 not as a mere relish1 but as food4 ,the raisin is produced in all the valleys of ,southern ,california1 and in great quantities in the hot valley of ,san ,joaquin1 beyond the ,sierra ,madre range4 ,the best ,malaga raisins1 which have the reputation of being the best in the world1 may never come to our market1 but ,i have never eaten a better raisin for size1 flavor1 and thinness of skin than those raised in the ,el ,cajon ,valley1 which is watered by the great flume which taps a reservoir in the ,cuyamaca ,mountains1 and supplies ,san ,diego4 ,but the quality of the raisin in ,california will be improved by experience in cultivation and handling4 ,the contrast with the ,mediterranean region--,i refer to the western basin--is in climate4 ,there is hardly any point along the ,french and ,italian coast that is not subject to great and sudden changes1 caused by the north wind1 which has many names1 or in the extreme southern peninsula and islands by the sirocco4 ,there are few points that are not reached by malaria1 and in many resorts--and some of them most sunny and agreeable to the invalid--the deadliest fevers always lie in wait4 ,there is great contrast between summer and winter1 and exceeding variability in the same month4 ,this variability is the parent of many diseases of the lungs1 the bowels1 and the liver4 ,it is demonstrated now by long-continued observations that dampness and cold are not so inimical to health as variability4 ,the ,southern ,california climate is an anomaly4 ,it has been the subject of a good deal of wonder and a good deal of boasting1 but it is worthy of more scientific study than it has yet received4 ,its distinguishing feature ,i take to be its equability4 ,the temperature the year through is lower than ,i had supposed1 and the contrast is not great between the summer and the winter months4 ,the same clothing is appropriate1 speaking generally1 for the whole year4 ,in all seasons1 including the rainy days of the winter months1 sunshine is the rule4 ,the variation of temperature between day and night is considerable1 but if the new-comer exercises a little care1 he will not be unpleasantly affected by it4 ,there are coast fogs1 but these are not chilling and raw4 ,why it is that with the hydrometer showing a considerable humidity in the air the general effect of the climate is that of dryness1 scientists must explain4 ,the constant exchange of desert airs with the ocean air may account for the anomaly1 and the actual dryness of the soil1 even on the coast1 is put forward as another explanation4 ,those who come from heated rooms on the ,atlantic may find the winters cooler than they expect1 and those used to the heated terms of the ,mississippi ,valley and the ,east will be surprised at the cool and salubrious summers4 ,a land without high winds or thunder-storms may fairly be said to have a unique climate4 ,illustration3 ,,live-,,oak ,,near ,,los ,,angeles4 ,i suppose it is the equability and not conditions of dampness or dryness that renders this region so remarkably exempt from epidemics and endemic diseases4 ,the diseases of children prevalent elsewhere are unknown here2 they cut their teeth without risk1 and cholera infantum never visits them4 ,diseases of the bowels are practically unknown4 ,there is no malaria1 whatever that may be1 and consequently an absence of those various fevers and other disorders which are attributed to malarial conditions4 ,renal diseases are also wanting2 disorders of the liver and kidneys1 and ,bright's disease1 gout1 and rheumatism1 are not native4 ,the climate in its effect is stimulating1 but at the same time soothing to the nerves1 so that if nervous prostration is wanted1 it must be brought here1 and cannot be relied on to continue long4 ,these facts are derived from medical practice with the native ,indian and ,mexican population4 ,dr4 ,remondino1 to whom ,i have before referred1 has made the subject a study for eighteen years1 and later ,i shall offer some of the results of his observations upon longevity4 ,it is beyond my province to venture any suggestion upon the effect of the climate upon deep-seated diseases1 especially of the respiratory organs1 of invalids who come here for health4 ,i only know that we meet daily and constantly so many persons in fair health who say that it is impossible for them to live elsewhere that the impression is produced that a considerable proportion of the immigrant population was invalid4 ,there are1 however1 two suggestions that should be made4 ,care is needed in acclimation to a climate that differs from any previous experience2 and the locality that will suit any invalid can only be determined by personal experience4 ,if the coast does not suit him1 he may be benefited in a protected valley1 or he may be improved on the foot-hills1 or on an elevated mesa1 or on a high mountain elevation4 ,one thing may be regarded as settled4 ,whatever the sensibility or the peculiarity of invalidism1 the equable climate is exceedingly favorable to the smooth working of the great organic functions of respiration1 digestion1 and circulation4 ,it is a pity to give this chapter a medical tone4 ,one need not be an invalid to come here and appreciate the graciousness of the air2 the color of the landscape1 which is wanting in our ,northern clime2 the constant procession of flowers the year through2 the purple hills stretching into the sea2 the hundreds of hamlets1 with picturesque homes overgrown with roses and geranium and heliotrope1 in the midst of orange orchards and of palms and magnolias1 in sight of the snow-peaks of the giant mountain ranges which shut in this land of marvellous beauty4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,winter ,,of ,,our ,,content4 ,california is the land of the ,pine and the ,palm4 ,the tree of the ,sierras1 native1 vigorous1 gigantic1 and the tree of the ,desert1 exotic1 supple1 poetic1 both flourish within the nine degrees of latitude4 ,these two1 the widely separated lovers of ,heine's song1 symbolize the capacities of the ,state1 and although the sugar-pine is indigenous1 and the date-palm1 which will never be more than an ornament in this hospitable soil1 was planted by the ,franciscan ,fathers1 who established a chain of missions from ,san ,diego to ,monterey over a century ago1 they should both be the distinction of one commonwealth1 which1 in its seven hundred miles of indented sea-coast1 can boast the climates of all countries and the products of all zones4 ,if this ,state of mountains and valleys were divided by an east and west line1 following the general course of the ,sierra ,madre range1 and cutting off the eight lower counties1 ,i suppose there would be conceit enough in either section to maintain that it only is the ,paradise of the earth1 but both are necessary to make the unique and contradictory ,california which fascinates and bewilders the traveller4 ,he is told that the inhabitants of ,san ,francisco go away from the draught of the ,golden ,gate in the summer to get warm1 and yet the earliest luscious cherries and apricots which he finds in the far south market of ,san ,diego come from the ,northern ,santa ,clara ,valley4 ,the truth would seem to be that in an hour's ride in any part of the ,state one can change his climate totally at any time of the year1 and this not merely by changing his elevation1 but by getting in or out of the range of the sea or the desert currents of air which follow the valleys4 ,to recommend to any one a winter climate is far from the writer's thought4 ,no two persons agree on what is desirable for a winter residence1 and the inclination of the same person varies with his state of health4 ,i can only attempt to give some idea of what is called the winter months in ,southern ,california1 to which my observations mainly apply4 ,the individual who comes here under the mistaken notion that climate ever does anything more than give nature a better chance1 may speedily or more tardily need the service of an undertaker2 and the invalid whose powers are responsive to kindly influences may live so long1 being unable to get away1 that life will be a burden to him4 ,the person in ordinary health will find very little that is hostile to the orderly organic processes4 ,in order to appreciate the winter climate of ,southern ,california one should stay here the year through1 and select the days that suit his idea of winter from any of the months4 ,from the fact that the greatest humidity is in the summer and the least in the winter months1 he may wear an overcoat in ,july in a temperature1 according to the thermometer1 which in ,january would render the overcoat unnecessary4 ,it is dampness that causes both cold and heat to be most felt4 ,the lowest temperatures1 in ,southern ,california generally1 are caused only by the extreme dryness of the air2 in the long nights of ,december and ,january there is a more rapid and longer continued radiation of heat4 ,it must be a dry and clear night that will send the temperature down to thirty-four degrees4 ,but the effect of the sun upon this air is instantaneous1 and the cold morning is followed at once by a warm forenoon2 the difference between the average heat of ,july and the average cold of ,january1 measured by the thermometer1 is not great in the valleys1 foot-hills1 and on the coast4 ,five points give this result of average for ,january and ,july respectively3 ,santa ,barbara1 #eb1 #ff2 ,san ,bernardino1 #ea1 #gj2 ,pomona1 #eb1 #fh2 ,los ,angeles1 #eb1 #fg2 ,san ,diego1 #ec1 #ff4 ,the day in the winter months is warmer in the interior and the nights are cooler than on the coast1 as shown by the following figures for ,january3 #g ,a4,m41 ,los ,angeles1 #df4e2 ,san ,diego1 #dg4e2 #c ,p4,m41 ,los ,angeles1 #fe4b2 ,san ,diego1 #fj4i4 ,in the summer the difference is greater4 ,in ,june ,i saw the thermometer reach #ajc in ,los ,angeles when it was only #gi in ,san ,diego4 ,but ,i have seen the weather unendurable in ,new ,york with a temperature of #he1 while this dry heat of #ajc was not oppressive4 ,the extraordinary equanimity of the coast climate 7certainly the driest marine climate in my experience7 will be evident from the average mean for each month1 from records of sixteen years1 ending in #ahgg1 taken at ,san ,diego1 giving each month in order1 beginning with ,january3 #ec4e1 #ed4g1 #ef4j1 #eh4b1 #fj4b1 #fd4f1 #fg4a1 #fi4j1 #ff4g1 #fb4i1 #eh4a1 #ef4j4 ,in the year #ahgg the mean temperature at #c ,p4,m4 at ,san ,diego was as follows1 beginning with ,january3 #fj4i1 #eg4g1 #fb4d1 #fc4c1 #ff4c1 #fh4e1 #fi4f1 #fi4f1 #fi4e1 #fi4f1 #fd4d1 #fj4e4 ,for the four months of ,july1 ,august1 ,september1 and ,october there was hardly a shade of difference at #c ,p4,m4 ,the striking fact in all the records ,i have seen is that the difference of temperature in the daytime between summer and winter is very small1 the great difference being from midnight to just before sunrise1 and this latter difference is greater inland than on the coast4 ,there are1 of course1 frost and ice in the mountains1 but the frost that comes occasionally in the low inland valleys is of very brief duration in the morning hour1 and rarely continues long enough to have a serious effect upon vegetation4 ,in considering the matter of temperature1 the rule for vegetation and for invalids will not be the same4 ,a spot in which delicate flowers in ,southern ,california bloom the year round may be too cool for many invalids4 ,it must not be forgotten that the general temperature here is lower than that to which most ,eastern people are accustomed4 ,they are used to living all winter in overheated houses1 and to protracted heated terms rendered worse by humidity in the summer4 ,the dry1 low temperature of the ,california winter1 notwithstanding its perpetual sunshine1 may seem1 therefore1 wanting to them in direct warmth4 ,it may take a year or two to acclimate them to this more equable and more refreshing temperature4 ,neither on the coast nor in the foot-hills will the invalid find the climate of the ,riviera or of ,tangier--not the tramontane wind of the former1 nor the absolutely genial but somewhat enervating climate of the latter4 ,but it must be borne in mind that in this1 our ,mediterranean1 the seeker for health or pleasure can find almost any climate 7except the very cold or the very hot71 down to the minutest subdivision4 ,he may try the dry marine climate of the coast1 or the temperature of the fruit lands and gardens from ,san ,bernardino to ,los ,angeles1 or he may climb to any altitude that suits him in the ,sierra ,madre or the ,san ,jacinto ranges4 ,the difference may be all-important to him between a valley and a mesa which is not a hundred feet higher2 nay1 between a valley and the slope of a foot-hill1 with a shifting of not more than fifty feet elevation1 the change may be as marked for him as it is for the most sensitive young fruit-tree4 ,it is undeniable1 notwithstanding these encouraging averages1 that cold snaps1 though rare1 do come occasionally1 just as in summer there will occur one or two or three continued days of intense heat4 ,and in the summer in some localities--it happened in ,june1 #ahij1 in the ,santiago hills in ,orange ,county--the desert sirocco1 blowing over the ,colorado furnace1 makes life just about unendurable for days at a time4 ,yet with this dry heat sunstroke is never experienced1 and the diseases of the bowels usually accompanying hot weather elsewhere are unknown4 ,the experienced traveller who encounters unpleasant weather1 heat that he does not expect1 cold that he did not provide for1 or dust that deprives him of his last atom of good-humor1 and is told that it is exceptional1 knows exactly what that word means4 ,he is familiar with the exceptional the world over1 and he feels a sort of compassion for the inhabitants who have not yet learned the adage1 ,good wine needs no bush4 ,even those who have bought more land than they can pay for can afford to tell the truth4 ,the rainy season in ,southern ,california1 which may open with a shower or two in ,october1 but does not set in till late in ,november1 or till ,december1 and is over in ,april1 is not at all a period of cloudy weather or continuous rainfall4 ,on the contrary1 bright warm days and brilliant sunshine are the rule4 ,the rain is most likely to fall in the night4 ,there may be a day of rain1 or several days that are overcast with distributed rain1 but the showers are soon over1 and the sky clears4 ,yet winters vary greatly in this respect1 the rainfall being much greater in some than in others4 ,in #ahij there was rain beyond the average1 and even on the equable beach of ,coronada there were some weeks of weather that from the ,california point of view were very unpleasant4 ,it was unpleasant by local comparison1 but it was not damp and chilly1 like a protracted period of falling weather on the ,atlantic4 ,the rain comes with a southerly wind1 caused by a disturbance far north1 and with the resumption of the prevailing westerly winds it suddenly ceases1 the air clears1 and neither before nor after it is the atmosphere steamy or enervating4 ,the average annual rainfall of the ,pacific coast diminishes by regular gradation from point to point all the way from ,puget ,sound to the ,mexican boundary4 ,at ,neah ,bay it is #aaa inches1 and it steadily lessens down to ,santa ,cruz1 #be4bd2 ,monterey1 #aa4db2 ,point ,conception1 #ab4ba2 ,san ,diego1 #aa4ja4 ,there is fog on the coast in every month1 but this diminishes1 like the rainfall1 from north to south4 ,i have encountered it in both ,february and ,june4 ,in the south it is apt to be most persistent in ,april and ,may1 when for three or four days together there will be a fine mist1 which any one but a ,scotchman would call rain4 ,usually1 however1 the fog-bank will roll in during the night1 and disappear by ten o'clock in the morning4 ,there is no wet season properly so called1 and consequently few days in the winter months when it is not agreeable to be out-of-doors1 perhaps no day when one may not walk or drive during some part of it4 ,yet as to precipitation or temperature it is impossible to strike any general average for ,southern ,california4 ,in #ahhc-hd ,san ,diego had #be4gg inches of rain1 and ,los ,angeles 7fifteen miles inland7 had #ch4bb4 ,the annual average at ,los ,angeles is #ag4fd2 but in #ahgf-gg the total at ,san ,diego was only #c4ge1 and at ,los ,angeles only #e4bh4 ,yet elevation and distance from the coast do not always determine the rainfall4 ,the yearly mean rainfall at ,julian1 in the ,san ,jacinto range1 at an elevation of #dejj feet1 is #cg4gd2 observations at ,riverside1 #ajej feet above the sea1 give an average of #i4cg4 ,it is probably impossible to give an ,eastern man a just idea of the winter of ,southern ,california4 ,accustomed to extremes1 he may expect too much4 ,he wants a violent change4 ,if he quits the snow1 the slush1 the leaden skies1 the alternate sleet and cold rain of ,new ,england1 he would like the tropical heat1 the languor1 the color of ,martinique4 ,he will not find them here4 ,he comes instead into a strictly temperate region2 and even when he arrives1 his eyes deceive him4 ,he sees the orange ripening in its dark foliage1 the long lines of the eucalyptus1 the feathery pepper-tree1 the magnolia1 the ,english walnut1 the black live-oak1 the fan-palm1 in all the vigor of ,june2 everywhere beds of flowers of every hue and of every country blazing in the bright sunlight--the heliotrope1 the geranium1 the rare hot-house roses overrunning the hedges of cypress1 and the scarlet passion-vine climbing to the roof-tree of the cottages2 in the vineyard or the orchard the horticulturist is following the cultivator in his shirt-sleeves2 he hears running water1 the song of birds1 the scent of flowers is in the air1 and he cannot understand why he needs winter clothing1 why he is always seeking the sun1 why he wants a fire at night4 ,it is a fraud1 he says1 all this visible display of summer1 and of an almost tropical summer at that2 it is really a cold country4 ,it is incongruous that he should be looking at a date-palm in his overcoat1 and he is puzzled that a thermometrical heat that should enervate him elsewhere1 stimulates him here4 ,the green1 brilliant1 vigorous vegetation1 the perpetual sunshine1 deceive him2 he is careless about the difference of shade and sun1 he gets into a draught1 and takes cold4 ,accustomed to extremes of temperature and artificial heat1 ,i think for most people the first winter here is a disappointment4 ,i was told by a physician who had eighteen years' experience of the climate that in his first winter he thought he had never seen a people so insensitive to cold as the ,san ,diegans1 who seemed not to require warmth4 ,and all this time the trees are growing like asparagus1 the most delicate flowers are in perpetual bloom1 the annual crops are most lusty4 ,i fancy that the soil is always warm4 ,the temperature is truly moderate4 ,the records for a number of years show that the mid-day temperature of clear days in winter is from #fj to #gj on the coast1 from #fe to #hj in the interior1 while that of rainy days is about #fj by the sea and inland4 ,mr4 ,van ,dyke says that the lowest mid-day temperature recorded at the ,united ,states signal station at ,san ,diego during eight years is #ea4 ,this occurred but once4 ,in those eight years there were but twenty-one days when the mid-day temperature was not above #ee4 ,in all that time there were but six days when the mercury fell below #cf at any time in the night2 and but two when it fell to #cb1 the lowest point ever reached there4 ,on one of these two last-named days it went to #ea at noon1 and on the other to #ef4 ,this was the great cold snap of ,december1 #ahgi4 ,it goes without saying that this sort of climate would suit any one in ordinary health1 inviting and stimulating to constant out-of-door exercise1 and that it would be equally favorable to that general breakdown of the system which has the name of nervous prostration4 ,the effect upon diseases of the respiratory organs can only be determined by individual experience4 ,the government has lately been sending soldiers who have consumption from various stations in the ,united ,states to ,san ,diego for treatment4 ,this experiment will furnish interesting data4 ,within a period covering a little over two years1 ,dr4 ,huntington1 the post surgeon1 has had fifteen cases sent to him4 ,three of these patients had tubercular consumption2 twelve had consumption induced by attacks of pneumonia4 ,one of the tubercular patients died within a month after his arrival2 the second lived eight months2 the third was discharged cured1 left the army1 and contracted malaria elsewhere1 of which he died4 ,the remaining twelve were discharged practically cured of consumption1 but two of them subsequently died4 ,it is exceedingly common to meet persons of all ages and both sexes in ,southern ,california who came invalided by disease of the lungs or throat1 who have every promise of fair health here1 but who dare not leave this climate4 ,the testimony is convincing of the good effect of the climate upon all children1 upon women generally1 and of its rejuvenating effect upon men and women of advanced years4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,health ,,and ,,longevity4 ,in regard to the effect of climate upon health and longevity1 ,dr4 ,remondino quotes old ,hufeland that uniformity in the state of the atmosphere1 particularly in regard to heat1 cold1 gravity1 and lightness1 contributes in a very considerable degree to the duration of life4 ,countries1 therefore1 where great and sudden varieties in the barometer and the thermometer are usual cannot be favorable to longevity4 ,such countries may be healthy1 and many men may become old in them1 but they will not attain to a great age1 for all rapid variations are so many internal mutations1 and these occasion an astonishing consumption both of the forces and the organs4 ,hufeland thought a marine climate most favorable to longevity4 ,he describes1 and perhaps we may say prophesied1 a region he had never known1 where the conditions and combinations were most favorable to old age1 which is epitomized by ,dr4 ,remondino3 where the latitude gives warmth and the sea or ocean tempering winds1 where the soil is warm and dry and the sun is also bright and warm1 where uninterrupted bright clear weather and a moderate temperature are the rule1 where extremes neither of heat nor cold are to be found1 where nothing may interfere with the exercise of the aged1 and where the actual results and cases of longevity will bear testimony as to the efficacy of all its climatic conditions being favorable to a long and comfortable existence4 ,illustration3 ,,midwinter1 ,,pasadena4 ,in an unpublished paper ,dr4 ,remondino comments on the extraordinary endurance of animals and men in the ,california climate1 and cites many cases of uncommon longevity in natives4 ,in reading the accounts of early days in ,california ,i am struck with the endurance of hardship1 exposure1 and wounds by the natives and the adventurers1 the rancheros1 horsemen1 herdsmen1 the descendants of soldiers and the ,indians1 their insensibility to fatigue1 and their agility and strength4 ,this is ascribed to the climate2 and what is true of man is true of the native horse4 ,his only rival in strength1 endurance1 speed1 and intelligence is the ,arabian4 ,it was long supposed that this was racial1 and that but for the smallness of the size of the native horse1 crossing with it would improve the breed of the ,eastern and ,kentucky racers4 ,but there was reluctance to cross the finely proportioned ,eastern horse with his diminutive ,western brother4 ,the importation and breeding of thoroughbreds on this coast has led to the discovery that the desirable qualities of the ,california horse were not racial but climatic4 ,the ,eastern horse has been found to improve in size1 compactness of muscle1 in strength of limb1 in wind1 with a marked increase in power of endurance4 ,the traveller here notices the fine horses and their excellent condition1 and the power and endurance of those that have considerable age4 ,the records made on ,eastern race-courses by horses from ,california breeding farms have already attracted attention4 ,it is also remarked that the ,eastern horse is usually improved greatly by a sojourn of a season or two on this coast1 and the plan of bringing ,eastern race-horses here for the winter is already adopted4 ,man1 it is asserted by our authority1 is as much benefited as the horse by a change to this climate4 ,the new-comer may have certain unpleasant sensations in coming here from different altitudes and conditions1 but he will soon be conscious of better being1 of increased power in all the functions of life1 more natural and recuperative sleep1 and an accession of vitality and endurance4 ,dr4 ,remondino also testifies that it occasionally happens in this rejuvenation that families which have seemed to have reached their limit at the ,east are increased after residence here4 ,the early inhabitants of ,southern ,california1 according to the statement of ,mr4 ,h4 ,h4 ,bancroft and other reports1 were found to be living in ,spartan conditions as to temperance and training1 and in a highly moral condition1 in consequence of which they had uncommon physical endurance and contempt for luxury4 ,this training in abstinence and hardship1 with temperance in diet1 combined with the climate to produce the astonishing longevity to be found here4 ,contrary to the customs of most other tribes of ,indians1 their aged were the care of the community4 ,dr4 ,w4 ,a4 ,winder1 of ,san ,diego1 is quoted as saying that in a visit to ,el ,cajon ,valley some thirty years ago he was taken to a house in which the aged persons were cared for4 ,there were half a dozen who had reached an extreme age4 ,some were unable to move1 their bony frame being seemingly anchylosed4 ,they were old1 wrinkled1 and blear-eyed2 their skin was hanging in leathery folds about their withered limbs2 some had hair as white as snow1 and had seen some seven-score of years2 others1 still able to crawl1 but so aged as to be unable to stand1 went slowly about on their hands and knees1 their limbs being attenuated and withered4 ,the organs of special sense had in many nearly lost all activity some generations back4 ,some had lost the use of their limbs for more than a decade or a generation2 but the organs of life and the great sympathetic still kept up their automatic functions1 not recognizing the fact1 and surprisingly indifferent to it1 that the rest of the body had ceased to be of any use a generation or more in the past4 ,and it is remarked that these thoracic and abdominal organs and their physiological action being kept alive and active1 as it were1 against time1 and the silent and unconscious functional activity of the great sympathetic and its ganglia1 show a tenacity of the animal tissues to hold on to life that is phenomenal4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,typical ,,garden1 ,,near ,,santa ,,ana4 ,i have no space to enter upon the nature of the testimony upon which the age of certain ,indians hereafter referred to is based4 ,it is such as to satisfy ,dr4 ,remondino1 ,dr4 ,edward ,palmer1 long connected with the ,agricultural ,department of the ,smithsonian ,institution1 and ,father ,a4 ,d4 ,ubach1 who has religious charge of the ,indians in this region4 ,these ,indians were not migratory2 they lived within certain limits1 and were known to each other4 ,the missions established by the ,franciscan friars were built with the assistance of the ,indians4 ,the friars have handed down by word of mouth many details in regard to their early missions2 others are found in the mission records1 such as carefully kept records of family events--births1 marriages1 and deaths4 ,and there is the testimony of the ,indians regarding each other4 ,father ,ubach has known a number who were employed at the building of the mission of ,san ,diego 7#agfi-ga71 a century before he took charge of this mission4 ,these men had been engaged in carrying timber from the mountains or in making brick1 and many of them were living within the last twenty years4 ,there are persons still living at the ,indian village of ,capitan ,grande whose ages he estimates at over one hundred and thirty years4 ,since the advent of civilization the abstemious habits and ,spartan virtues of these ,indians have been impaired1 and their care for the aged has relaxed4 ,dr4 ,palmer has a photograph 7which ,i have seen7 of a squaw whom he estimates to be #abf years old4 ,when he visited her he saw her put six watermelons in a blanket1 tie it up1 and carry it on her back for two miles4 ,he is familiar with ,indian customs and history1 and a careful cross-examination convinced him that her information of old customs was not obtained by tradition4 ,she was conversant with tribal habits she had seen practised1 such as the cremation of the dead1 which the mission fathers had compelled the ,indians to relinquish4 ,she had seen the ,indians punished by the fathers with floggings for persisting in the practice of cremation4 ,at the mission of ,san ,tomas1 in ,lower ,california1 is still living an ,indian 7a photograph of whom ,dr4 ,remondino shows71 bent and wrinkled1 whose age is computed at #adj years4 ,although blind and naked1 he is still active1 and daily goes down the beach and along the beds of the creeks in search of drift-wood1 making it his daily task to gather and carry to camp a fagot of wood4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,adobe ,,house1 ,,pomona4 ,another instance ,i give in ,dr4 ,remondino's words3 ,philip ,crossthwaite1 who has lived here since #ahdc1 has an old man on his ranch who mounts his horse and rides about daily1 who was a grown man breaking horses for the mission fathers when ,don ,antonio ,serrano was an infant4 ,don ,antonio ,i know quite well1 having attended him through a serious illness some sixteen years ago4 ,although now at the advanced age of ninety-three1 he is as erect as a pine1 and he rides his horse with his usual vigor and grace4 ,he is thin and spare and very tall1 and those who knew him fifty years or more remember him as the most skilful horseman in the neighborhood of ,san ,diego4 ,and yet1 as fabulous as it may seem1 the man who danced this ,don ,antonio on his knee when he was an infant is not only still alive1 but is active enough to mount his horse and canter about the country4 ,some years ago ,i attended an elderly gentleman1 since dead1 who knew this man as a full-grown man when he and ,don ,serrano were play-children together4 ,from a conversation with ,father ,ubach ,i learned that the man's age is perfectly authenticated to be beyond one hundred and eighteen years4 ,in the many instances given of extreme old age in this region the habits of these ,indians have been those of strict temperance and abstemiousness1 and their long life in an equable climate is due to extreme simplicity of diet4 ,in many cases of extreme age the diet has consisted simply of acorns1 flour1 and water4 ,it is asserted that the climate itself induces temperance in drink and abstemiousness in diet4 ,in his estimate of the climate as a factor of longevity1 ,dr4 ,remondino says that it is only necessary to look at the causes of death1 and the ages most subject to attack1 to understand that the less of these causes that are present the greater are the chances of man to reach great age4 ,add to these reflections that you run no gantlet of diseases to undermine or deteriorate the organism2 that in this climate childhood finds an escape from those diseases which are the terror of mothers1 and against which physicians are helpless1 as we have here none of those affections of the first three years of life so prevalent during the summer months in the ,east and the rest of the ,united ,states4 ,then1 again1 the chance of gastric or intestinal disease is almost incredibly small4 ,this immunity extends through every age of life4 ,hepatic and kindred diseases are unknown2 of lung affections there is no land that can boast of like exemption4 ,be it the equability of the temperature or the aseptic condition of the atmosphere1 the free sweep of winds or the absence of disease germs1 or what else it may be ascribed to1 one thing is certain1 that there is no pneumonia1 bronchitis1 or pleurisy lying in wait for either the infant or the aged4 ,illustration3 ,,fan-,,palm1 ,,fernando ,,st4 ,,los ,,angeles4 ,the importance of this subject must excuse the space ,i have given to it4 ,it is evident from this testimony that here are climatic conditions novel and worthy of the most patient scientific investigation4 ,their effect upon hereditary tendencies and upon persons coming here with hereditary diseases will be studied4 ,three years ago there was in some localities a visitation of small-pox imported from ,mexico4 ,at that time there were cases of pneumonia4 ,whether these were incident to carelessness in vaccination1 or were caused by local unsanitary conditions1 ,i do not know4 ,it is not to be expected that unsanitary conditions will not produce disease here as elsewhere4 ,it cannot be too strongly insisted that this is a climate that the new-comer must get used to1 and that he cannot safely neglect the ordinary precautions4 ,the difference between shade and sun is strikingly marked1 and he must not be deceived into imprudence by the prevailing sunshine or the general equability4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,is ,,residence ,,here ,,agreeable8 ,after all these averages and statistics1 and not considering now the chances of the speculator1 the farmer1 the fruit-raiser1 or the invalid1 is ,southern ,california a particularly agreeable winter residence8 ,the question deserves a candid answer1 for it is of the last importance to the people of the ,united ,states to know the truth--to know whether they have accessible by rail a region free from winter rigor and vicissitudes1 and yet with few of the disadvantages of most winter resorts4 ,one would have more pleasure in answering the question if he were not irritated by the perpetual note of brag and exaggeration in every locality that each is the paradise of the earth1 and absolutely free from any physical discomfort4 ,i hope that this note of exaggeration is not the effect of the climate1 for if it is1 the region will never be socially agreeable4 ,there are no sudden changes of season here4 ,spring comes gradually day by day1 a perceptible hourly waking to life and color2 and this glides into a summer which never ceases1 but only becomes tired and fades into the repose of a short autumn1 when the sere and brown and red and yellow hills and the purple mountains are waiting for the rain clouds4 ,this is according to the process of nature2 but wherever irrigation brings moisture to the fertile soil1 the green and bloom are perpetual the year round1 only the green is powdered with dust1 and the cultivated flowers have their periods of exhaustion4 ,i should think it well worth while to watch the procession of nature here from late ,november or ,december to ,april4 ,it is a land of delicate and brilliant wild flowers1 of blooming shrubs1 strange in form and wonderful in color4 ,before the annual rains the land lies in a sort of swoon in a golden haze2 the slopes and plains are bare1 the hills yellow with ripe wild-oats or ashy gray with sage1 the sea-breeze is weak1 the air grows drier1 the sun hot1 the shade cool4 ,then one day light clouds stream up from the south-west1 and there is a gentle rain4 ,when the sun comes out again its rays are milder1 the land is refreshed and brightened1 and almost immediately a greenish tinge appears on plain and hill-side4 ,at intervals the rain continues1 daily the landscape is greener in infinite variety of shades1 which seem to sweep over the hills in waves of color4 ,upon this carpet of green by ,february nature begins to weave an embroidery of wild flowers1 white1 lavender1 golden1 pink1 indigo1 scarlet1 changing day by day and every day more brilliant1 and spreading from patches into great fields until dale and hill and table-land are overspread with a refinement and glory of color that would be the despair of the carpet-weavers of ,daghestan4 ,this1 with the scent of orange groves and tea-roses1 with cool nights1 snow in sight on the high mountains1 an occasional day of rain1 days of bright sunshine1 when an overcoat is needed in driving1 must suffice the sojourner for winter4 ,he will be humiliated that he is more sensitive to cold than the heliotrope or the violet1 but he must bear it4 ,if he is looking for malaria1 he must go to some other winter resort4 ,if he wants a norther continuing for days1 he must move on4 ,if he is accustomed to various insect pests1 he will miss them here4 ,if there comes a day warmer than usual1 it will not be damp or soggy4 ,so far as nature is concerned there is very little to grumble at1 and one resource of the traveller is therefore taken away4 ,but is it interesting8 ,what is there to do8 ,it must be confessed that there is a sort of monotony in the scenery as there is in the climate4 ,there is1 to be sure1 great variety in a way between coast and mountain1 as1 for instance1 between ,santa ,barbara and ,pasadena1 and if the tourist will make a business of exploring the valleys and uplands and caons little visited1 he will not complain of monotony2 but the artist and the photographer find the same elements repeated in little varying combinations4 ,there is undeniable repetition in the succession of flower-gardens1 fruit orchards1 alleys of palms and peppers1 vineyards1 and the cultivation about the villas is repeated in all directions4 ,the ,americans have not the art of making houses or a land picturesque4 ,the traveller is enthusiastic about the exquisite drives through these groves of fruit1 with the ashy or the snow-covered hills for background and contrast1 and he exclaims at the pretty cottages1 vine and rose clad1 in their semi-tropical setting1 but if by chance he comes upon an old adobe or a ,mexican ranch house in the country1 he has emotions of a different sort4 ,illustration3 ,,scarlet ,,passion-,,vine4 ,there is little left of the old ,spanish occupation1 but the remains of it make the romance of the country1 and appeal to our sense of fitness and beauty4 ,it is to be hoped that all such historical associations will be preserved1 for they give to the traveller that which our country generally lacks1 and which is so largely the attraction of ,italy and ,spain4 ,instead of adapting and modifying the houses and homes that the climate suggests1 the new ,american comers have brought here from the ,east the smartness and prettiness of our modern nondescript architecture4 ,the low house1 with recesses and galleries1 built round an inner court1 or patio1 which1 however small1 would fill the whole interior with sunshine and the scent of flowers1 is the sort of dwelling that would suit the climate and the habit of life here4 ,but the present occupiers have taken no hints from the natives4 ,in village and country they have done all they can1 in spite of the maguey and the cactus and the palm and the umbrella-tree and the live-oak and the riotous flowers and the thousand novel forms of vegetation1 to give everything a prosaic look4 ,but why should the tourist find fault with this8 ,the ,american likes it1 and he would not like the picturesqueness of the ,spanish or the ,latin races4 ,so far as climate and natural beauty go to make one contented in a winter resort1 ,southern ,california has unsurpassed attractions1 and both seem to me to fit very well the ,american temperament2 but the associations of art and history are wanting1 and the tourist knows how largely his enjoyment of a vacation in ,southern ,italy or ,sicily or ,northern ,africa depends upon these--upon these and upon the aspects of human nature foreign to his experience4 ,it goes without saying that this is not ,europe1 either in its human interest or in a certain refinement of landscape that comes only by long cultivation and the occupancy of ages4 ,one advantage of foreign travel to the restless ,american is that he carries with him no responsibility for the government or the progress of the country he is in1 and that he leaves business behind him2 whereas in this new country1 which is his own1 the development of which is so interesting1 and in which the opportunities of fortune seem so inviting1 he is constantly tempted to take a hand in4 ,if1 however1 he is superior to this fever1 and is willing simply to rest1 to drift along with the equable days1 ,i know of no other place where he can be more truly contented4 ,year by year the country becomes more agreeable for the traveller1 in the first place1 through the improvement in the hotels1 and in the second1 by better roads4 ,in the large villages and cities there are miles of excellent drives1 well sprinkled1 through delightful avenues1 in a park-like country1 where the eye is enchanted with color and luxurious vegetation1 and captivated by the remarkable beauty of the hills1 the wildness and picturesqueness of which enhance the charming cultivation of the orchards and gardens4 ,and no country is more agreeable for riding and driving1 for even at mid-day1 in the direct sun rays1 there is almost everywhere a refreshing breeze1 and one rides or drives or walks with little sense of fatigue4 ,the horses are uniformly excellent1 either in the carriage or under the saddle4 ,i am sure they are remarkable in speed1 endurance1 and ease of motion4 ,if the visiting season had no other attraction1 the horses would make it distinguished4 ,a great many people like to spend months in a comfortable hotel1 lounging on the piazzas1 playing lawn-tennis1 taking a morning ride or afternoon drive1 making an occasional picnic excursion up some mountain caon1 getting up charades1 playing at private theatricals1 dancing1 flirting1 floating along with more or less sentiment and only the weariness that comes when there are no duties4 ,there are plenty of places where all these things can be done1 and with no sort of anxiety about the weather from week to week1 and with the added advantage that the women and children can take care of themselves4 ,but for those who find such a life monotonous there are other resources4 ,there is very good fishing in the clear streams in the foot-hills1 hunting in the mountains for large game still worthy of the steadiest nerves1 and good bird-shooting everywhere4 ,there are mountains to climb1 caons to explore1 lovely valleys in the recesses of the hills to be discovered--in short1 one disposed to activity and not afraid of roughing it could occupy himself most agreeably and healthfully in the wild parts of ,san ,bernardino and ,san ,diego counties2 he may even still start a grizzly in the ,sierra ,madre range in ,los ,angeles ,county4 ,hunting and exploring in the mountains1 riding over the mesas1 which are green from the winter rains and gay with a thousand delicate grasses and flowering plants1 is manly occupation to suit the most robust and adventurous4 ,those who saunter in the trim gardens1 or fly from one hotel parlor to the other1 do not see the best of ,southern ,california in the winter4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,winter ,,on ,,the ,,coast4 ,but the distinction of this coast1 and that which will forever make it attractive at the season when the ,north ,atlantic is forbidding1 is that the ocean-side is as equable1 as delightful1 in winter as in summer4 ,its sea-side places are truly all-the-year-round resorts4 ,in subsequent chapters ,i shall speak in detail of different places as to climate and development and peculiarities of production4 ,i will now only give a general idea of ,southern ,california as a wintering place4 ,even as far north as ,monterey1 in the central part of the ,state1 the famous ,hotel del ,monte1 with its magnificent park of pines and live-oaks1 and exquisite flower-gardens underneath the trees1 is remarkable for its steadiness of temperature4 ,i could see little difference between the temperature of ,june and of ,february4 ,the difference is of course greatest at night4 ,the maximum the year through ranges from about #fe to about #hj1 and the minimum from about #ce to about #eh1 though there are days when the thermometer goes above #ij1 and nights when it falls below #cj4 ,illustration3 ,,rose-,,bush1 ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,to those who prefer the immediate ocean air to that air as modified by such valleys as the ,san ,gabriel and the ,santa ,ana1 the coast offers a variety of choice in different combinations of sea and mountain climate all along the southern sunny exposure from ,santa ,barbara to ,san ,diego4 ,in ,santa ,barbara ,county the ,santa ,inez range of mountains runs westward to meet the ,pacific at ,point ,conception4 ,south of this noble range are a number of little valleys opening to the sea1 and in one of these1 with a harbor and sloping upland and caon of its own1 lies ,santa ,barbara1 looking southward towards the sunny islands of ,santa ,rosa and ,santa ,cruz4 ,above it is the ,mission ,caon1 at the entrance of which is the best-preserved of the old ,franciscan missions4 ,there is a superb drive eastward along the long and curving sea-beach of four miles to the caon of ,monticito1 which is rather a series of nooks and terraces1 of lovely places and gardens1 of plantations of oranges and figs1 rising up to the base of the gray mountains4 ,the long line of the ,santa ,inez suggests the promontory of ,sorrento1 and a view from the opposite rocky point1 which encloses the harbor on the west1 by the help of cypresses which look like stone-pines1 recalls many an ,italian coast scene1 and in situation the ,bay of ,naples4 ,the whole aspect is foreign1 enchanting1 and the semi-tropical fruits and vines and flowers1 with a golden atmosphere poured over all1 irresistibly take the mind to scenes of ,italian romance4 ,there is still a little ,spanish flavor left in the town1 in a few old houses1 in names and families historic1 and in the life without hurry or apprehension4 ,there is a delightful commingling here of sea and mountain air1 and in a hundred fertile nooks in the hills one in the most delicate health may be sheltered from every harsh wind4 ,i think no one ever leaves ,santa ,barbara without a desire to return to it4 ,farther down the coast1 only eighteen miles from ,los ,angeles1 and a sort of ,coney ,island resort of that thriving city1 is ,santa ,monica4 ,its hotel stands on a high bluff in a lovely bend of the coast4 ,it is popular in summer as well as winter1 as the number of cottages attest1 and it was chosen by the directors of the ,national ,soldiers' ,home as the site of the ,home on the ,pacific coast4 ,there the veterans1 in a commodious building1 dream away their lives most contentedly1 and can fancy that they hear the distant thunder of guns in the pounding of the surf4 ,at about the same distance from ,los ,angeles1 southward1 above ,point ,vincent1 is ,redondo ,beach1 a new resort1 which1 from its natural beauty and extensive improvements1 promises to be a delightful place of sojourn at any time of the year4 ,the mountainous1 embracing arms of the bay are exquisite in contour and color1 and the beach is very fine4 ,the hotel is perfectly comfortable--indeed1 uncommonly attractive--and the extensive planting of trees1 palms1 and shrubs1 and the cultivation of flowers1 will change the place in a year or two into a scene of green and floral loveliness2 in this region two years1 such is the rapid growth1 suffices to transform a desert into a park or garden4 ,on the hills1 at a little distance from the beach and pier1 are the buildings of the ,chautauqua1 which holds a local summer session here4 ,the ,chautauqua people1 the country over1 seem to have1 in selecting sightly and agreeable sites for their temples of education and amusement1 as good judgment as the old monks had in planting their monasteries and missions4 ,illustration3 ,,at ,,avalon1 ,,santa ,,catalina ,,island4 ,if one desires a thoroughly insular climate1 he may cross to the picturesque island of ,santa ,catalina4 ,all along the coast flowers bloom in the winter months1 and the ornamental semi-tropical plants thrive2 and there are many striking headlands and pretty bays and gentle seaward slopes which are already occupied by villages1 and attract visitors who would practise economy4 ,the hills frequently come close to the shore1 forming those valleys in which the ,californians of the pastoral period placed their ranch houses4 ,at ,san ,juan ,capristrano the fathers had one of their most flourishing missions1 the ruins of which are the most picturesque the traveller will find4 ,it is altogether a genial1 attractive coast1 and if the tourist does not prefer an inland situation1 like the ,hotel ,raymond 7which scarcely has a rival anywhere in its lovely surroundings71 he will keep on down the coast to ,san ,diego4 ,the transition from the well-planted counties of ,los ,angeles and ,orange is not altogether agreeable to the eye4 ,one misses the trees4 ,the general aspect of the coast about ,san ,diego is bare in comparison4 ,this simply means that the southern county is behind the others in development4 ,nestled among the hills there are live-oaks and sycamores2 and of course at ,national ,city and below1 in ,el ,cajon and the valley of the ,sweetwater1 there are extensive plantations of oranges1 lemons1 olives1 and vines1 but the ,san ,diego region generally lies in the sun shadeless4 ,i have a personal theory that much vegetation is inconsistent with the best atmosphere for the human being4 ,the air is nowhere else so agreeable to me as it is in a barren ,new ,mexican or ,arizona desert at the proper elevation4 ,i do not know whether the ,san ,diego climate would be injured if the hills were covered with forest and the valleys were all in the highest and most luxuriant vegetation4 ,the theory is that the interaction of the desert and ocean winds will always keep it as it is1 whatever man may do4 ,i can only say that1 as it is1 ,i doubt if it has its equal the year round for agreeableness and healthfulness in our ,union2 and it is the testimony of those whose experience of the best ,mediterranean climate is more extended and much longer continued than mine1 that it is superior to any on that enclosed sea4 ,about this great harbor1 whose outer beach has an extent of twenty-five miles1 whose inland circuit of mountains must be over fifty miles1 there are great varieties of temperature1 of shelter and exposure1 minute subdivisions of climate1 whose personal fitness can only be attested by experience4 ,there is a great difference1 for instance1 between the quality of the climate at the elevation of the ,florence ,hotel1 ,san ,diego1 and the ,university ,heights on the mesa above the town1 and that on the long ,coronado ,beach which protects the inner harbor from the ocean surf4 ,the latter1 practically surrounded by water1 has a true marine climate1 but a peculiar and dry marine climate1 as tonic in its effect as that of ,capri1 and1 ,i believe1 with fewer harsh days in the winter season4 ,i wish to speak with entire frankness about this situation1 for ,i am sure that what so much pleases me will suit a great number of people1 who will thank me for not being reserved4 ,doubtless it will not suit hundreds of people as well as some other localities in ,southern ,california1 but ,i found no other place where ,i had the feeling of absolute content and willingness to stay on indefinitely4 ,there is a geniality about it for which the thermometer does not account1 a charm which it is difficult to explain4 ,much of the agreeability is due to artificial conditions1 but the climate man has not made nor marred4 ,the ,coronado ,beach is about twelve miles long4 ,a narrow sand promontory1 running northward from the main-land1 rises to the ,heights1 then broadens into a table-land1 which seems to be an island1 and measures about a mile and a half each way2 this is called ,south ,beach1 and is connected by another spit of sand with a like area called ,north ,beach1 which forms1 with ,point ,loma1 the entrance to the harbor4 ,the ,north ,beach1 covered partly with chaparral and broad fields of barley1 is alive with quail1 and is a favorite coursing-ground for rabbits4 ,the soil1 which appears uninviting1 is with water uncommonly fertile1 being a mixture of loam1 disintegrated granite1 and decomposed shells1 and especially adapted to flowers1 rare tropical trees1 fruits1 and flowering shrubs of all countries4 ,the development is on the ,south ,beach1 which was in ,january1 #ahhg1 nothing but a waste of sand and chaparral4 ,i doubt if the world can show a like transformation in so short a time4 ,i saw it in ,february of that year1 when all the beauty1 except that of ocean1 sky1 and atmosphere1 was still to be imagined4 ,it is now as if the wand of the magician had touched it4 ,in the first place1 abundance of water was brought over by a submarine conduit1 and later from the extraordinary ,coronado ,springs 7excellent soft water for drinking and bathing1 and with a recognized medicinal value71 and with these streams the beach began to bloom like a tropical garden4 ,tens of thousands of trees have attained a remarkable growth in three years4 ,the nursery is one of the most interesting botanical and flower gardens in the country2 palms and hedges of ,monterey cypress and marguerites line the avenues4 ,there are parks and gardens of rarest flowers and shrubs1 whose brilliant color produces the same excitement in the mind as strains of martial music4 ,a railway traverses the beach for a mile from the ferry to the hotel4 ,there are hundreds of cottages with their gardens scattered over the surface2 there is a race-track1 a museum1 an ostrich farm1 a labyrinth1 good roads for driving1 and a dozen other attractions for the idle or the inquisitive4 ,illustration3 ,,hotel ,,del ,,coronado4 ,the hotel stands upon the south front of the beach and near the sea1 above which it is sufficiently elevated to give a fine prospect4 ,the sound of the beating surf is perpetual there4 ,at low tide there is a splendid driving beach miles in extent1 and though the slope is abrupt1 the opportunity for bathing is good1 with a little care in regard to the undertow4 ,but there is a safe natatorium on the harbor side close to the hotel4 ,the stranger1 when he first comes upon this novel hotel and this marvellous scene of natural and created beauty1 is apt to exhaust his superlatives4 ,i hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel--this airy and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the architect4 ,taking it and its situation together1 ,i know nothing else in the world with which to compare it1 and ,i have never seen any other which so surprised at first1 that so improved on a two weeks' acquaintance1 and that has left in the mind an impression so entirely agreeable4 ,it covers about four and a half acres of ground1 including an inner court of about an acre1 the rich made soil of which is raised to the level of the main floor4 ,the house surrounds this1 in the ,spanish mode of building1 with a series of galleries1 so that most of the suites of rooms have a double outlook--one upon this lovely garden1 the other upon the ocean or the harbor4 ,the effect of this interior court or patio is to give gayety and an air of friendliness to the place1 brilliant as it is with flowers and climbing vines2 and when the royal and date palms that are vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be magnificent4 ,big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome1 unfriendly places2 and if ,i should lay too much stress upon the vast dining-room 7which has a floor area of ten thousand feet without post or pillar71 or the beautiful breakfast-room1 or the circular ballroom 7which has an area of eleven thousand feet1 with its timber roof open to the lofty observatory71 or the music-room1 billiard-rooms for ladies1 the reading-rooms and parlors1 the pretty gallery overlooking the spacious office rotunda1 and then say that the whole is illuminated with electric lights1 and capable of being heated to any temperature desired--,i might convey a false impression as to the actual comfort and home-likeness of this charming place4 ,on the sea side the broad galleries of each story are shut in by glass1 which can be opened to admit or shut to exclude the fresh ocean breeze4 ,whatever the temperature outside1 those great galleries are always agreeable for lounging or promenading4 ,for me1 ,i never tire of the sea and its changing color and movement4 ,if this great house were filled with guests1 so spacious are its lounging places ,i should think it would never appear to be crowded2 and if it were nearly empty1 so admirably are the rooms contrived for family life it will not seem lonesome4 ,i shall add that the management is of the sort that makes the guest feel at home and at ease4 ,flowers1 brought in from the gardens and nurseries1 are every where in profusion--on the dining-tables1 in the rooms1 all about the house4 ,so abundantly are they produced that no amount of culling seems to make an impression upon their mass4 ,illustration3 ,,ostrich ,,yard1 ,,coronado ,,beach4 ,but any description would fail to give the secret of the charm of existence here4 ,restlessness disappears1 for one thing1 but there is no languor or depression4 ,i cannot tell why1 when the thermometer is at #fj or #fc1 the air seems genial and has no sense of chilliness1 or why it is not oppressive at #hj or #he4 ,i am sure the place will not suit those whose highest idea of winter enjoyment is tobogganing and an ice palace1 nor those who revel in the steam and languor of a tropical island2 but for a person whose desires are moderate1 whose tastes are temperate1 who is willing for once to be good-humored and content in equable conditions1 ,i should commend ,coronado ,beach and the ,hotel del ,coronado1 if ,i had not long ago learned that it is unsafe to commend to any human being a climate or a doctor4 ,but you can take your choice4 ,it lies there1 our ,mediterranean region1 on a blue ocean1 protected by barriers of granite from the ,northern influences1 an infinite variety of plain1 caon1 hills1 valleys1 sea-coast2 our ,new ,italy without malaria1 and with every sort of fruit which we desire 7except the tropical71 which will be grown in perfection when our knowledge equals our ambition2 and if you cannot find a winter home there or pass some contented weeks in the months of ,northern inclemency1 you are weighing social advantages against those of the least objectionable climate within the ,union4 ,it is not yet proved that this equability and the daily out-door life possible there will change character1 but they are likely to improve the disposition and soften the asperities of common life4 ,at any rate1 there is a land where from ,november to ,april one has not to make a continual fight with the elements to keep alive4 ,it has been said that this land of the sun and of the equable climate will have the effect that other lands of a southern aspect have upon temperament and habits4 ,it is feared that ,northern-bred people1 who are guided by the necessity of making hay while the sun shines1 will not make hay at all in a land where the sun always shines4 ,it is thought that unless people are spurred on incessantly by the exigencies of the changing seasons they will lose energy1 and fall into an idle floating along with gracious nature4 ,will not one sink into a comfortable and easy procrastination if he has a whole year in which to perform the labor of three months8 ,will ,southern ,california be an exception to those lands of equable climate and extraordinary fertility where every effort is postponed till to-morrow8 ,i wish there might be something solid in this expectation2 that this may be a region where the restless ,american will lose something of his hurry and petty1 feverish ambition4 ,partially it may be so4 ,he will take1 he is already taking1 something of the tone of the climate and of the old ,spanish occupation4 ,but the race instinct of thrift and of getting on will not wear out in many generations4 ,besides1 the condition of living at all in ,southern ,california in comfort1 and with the social life indispensable to our people1 demands labor1 not exhausting and killing1 but still incessant--demands industry4 ,a land that will not yield satisfactorily without irrigation1 and whose best paying produce requires intelligent as well as careful husbandry1 will never be an idle land4 ,egypt1 with all its dolce far niente1 was never an idle land for the laborer4 ,it may be expected1 however1 that no more energy will be developed or encouraged than is needed for the daily tasks1 and these tasks being lighter than elsewhere1 and capable of being postponed1 that there will be less stress and strain in the daily life4 ,although the climate of ,southern ,california is not enervating1 in fact is stimulating to the new-comer1 it is doubtless true that the monotony of good weather1 of the sight of perpetual bloom and color in orchards and gardens1 will take away nervousness and produce a certain placidity1 which might be taken for laziness by a ,northern observer4 ,it may be that engagements will not be kept with desired punctuality1 under the impression that the enjoyment of life does not depend upon exact response to the second-hand of a watch2 and it is not unpleasant to think that there is a corner of the ,union where there will be a little more leisure1 a little more of serene waiting on ,providence1 an abatement of the restless rush and haste of our usual life4 ,the waves of population have been rolling westward for a long time1 and now1 breaking over the mountains1 they flow over ,pacific slopes and along the warm and inviting seas4 ,is it altogether an unpleasing thought that the conditions of life will be somewhat easier there1 that there will be some physical repose1 the race having reached the sunset of the continent1 comparable to the desirable placidity of life called the sunset of old age8 ,this may be altogether fanciful1 but ,i have sometimes felt1 in the sunny moderation of nature there1 that this land might offer for thousands at least a winter of content4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,general ,,outlook4--,,land ,,and ,,prices4 ,from the northern limit of ,california to the southern is about the same distance as from ,portsmouth1 ,new ,hampshire1 to ,charleston1 ,south ,carolina4 ,of these two coast lines1 covering nearly ten degrees of latitude1 or over seven hundred miles1 the ,atlantic has greater extremes of climate and greater monthly variations1 and the ,pacific greater variety of productions4 ,the ,state of ,california is1 however1 so mountainous1 cut by longitudinal and transverse ranges1 that any reasonable person can find in it a temperature to suit him the year through4 ,but it does not need to be explained that it would be difficult to hit upon any general characteristic that would apply to the stretch of the ,atlantic coast named1 as a guide to a settler looking for a home2 the description of ,massachusetts would be wholly misleading for ,south ,carolina4 ,it is almost as difficult to make any comprehensive statement about the long line of the ,california coast4 ,it is possible1 however1 limiting the inquiry to the southern third of the ,state--an area of about fifty-eight thousand square miles1 as large as ,maine1 ,new ,hampshire1 ,massachusetts1 ,connecticut1 and ,rhode ,island--to answer fairly some of the questions oftenest asked about it4 ,these relate to the price of land1 its productiveness1 the kind of products most profitable1 the sort of labor required1 and its desirability as a place of residence for the laborer1 for the farmer or horticulturist of small means1 and for the man with considerable capital4 ,questions on these subjects cannot be answered categorically1 but ,i hope to be able1 by setting down my own observations and using trustworthy reports1 to give others the material on which to exercise their judgment4 ,in the first place1 ,i think it demonstrable that a person would profitably exchange #afj acres of farming land east of the one hundredth parallel for ten acres1 with a water right1 in ,southern ,california4 ,illustration3 ,,yucca-,,palm4 ,in making this estimate ,i do not consider the question of health or merely the agreeability of the climate1 but the conditions of labor1 the ease with which one could support a family1 and the profits over and above a fair living4 ,it has been customary in reckoning the value of land there to look merely to the profit of it beyond its support of a family1 forgetting that agriculture and horticulture the world over1 like almost all other kinds of business1 usually do little more than procure a good comfortable living1 with incidental education1 to those who engage in them4 ,that the majority of the inhabitants of ,southern ,california will become rich by the culture of the orange and the vine is an illusion2 but it is not an illusion that twenty times its present population can live there in comfort1 in what might be called luxury elsewhere1 by the cultivation of the soil1 all far removed from poverty and much above the condition of the majority of the inhabitants of the foreign wine and fruit-producing countries4 ,this result is assured by the extraordinary productiveness of the land1 uninterrupted the year through1 and by the amazing extension of the market in the ,united ,states for products that can be nowhere else produced with such certainty and profusion as in ,california4 ,that ,state is only just learning how to supply a demand which is daily increasing1 but it already begins to command the market in certain fruits4 ,this command of the market in the future will depend upon itself1 that is1 whether it will send ,east and ,north only sound wine1 instead of crude1 ill-cured juice of the grape1 only the best and most carefully canned apricots1 nectarines1 peaches1 and plums1 only the raisins and prunes perfectly prepared1 only such oranges1 lemons1 and grapes and pears as the ,californians are willing to eat themselves4 ,california has yet much to learn about fruit-raising and fruit-curing1 but it already knows that to compete with the rest of the world in our markets it must beat the rest of the world in quality4 ,it will take some time yet to remove the unfavorable opinion of ,california wines produced in the ,east by the first products of the vineyards sent here4 ,illustration3 ,,date-,,palm4 ,the difficulty for the settler is that he cannot take up ten acres with water in ,california as he can #afj acres elsewhere4 ,there is left little available ,government land4 ,there is plenty of government land not taken up and which may never be occupied1 that is1 inaccessible mountain and irreclaimable desert4 ,there are also little nooks and fertile spots here and there to be discovered which may be pre-empted1 and which will some day have value4 ,but practically all the arable land1 or that is likely to become so1 is owned now in large tracts1 under grants or by wholesale purchase4 ,the circumstances of the case compelled associate effort4 ,such a desert as that now blooming region known as ,pasadena1 ,pomona1 ,riverside1 and so on1 could not be subdued by individual exertion4 ,consequently land and water companies were organized4 ,they bought large tracts of unimproved land1 built dams in the mountain caons1 sunk wells1 drew water from the rivers1 made reservoirs1 laid pipes1 carried ditches and conduits across the country1 and then sold the land with the inseparable water right in small parcels4 ,thus the region became subdivided among small holders1 each independent1 but all mutually dependent as to water1 which is the sine qua non of existence4 ,it is only a few years since there was a forlorn and struggling colony a few miles east of ,los ,angeles known as the ,indiana settlement4 ,it had scant water1 no railway communication1 and everything to learn about horticulture4 ,that spot is now the famous ,pasadena4 ,what has been done in the ,santa ,ana and ,san ,gabriel valleys will be done elsewhere in the ,state4 ,there are places in ,kern ,county1 north of the ,sierra ,madre1 where the land produces grain and alfalfa without irrigation1 where farms can be bought at from five to ten dollars an acre--land that will undoubtedly increase in value with settlement and also by irrigation4 ,the great county of ,san ,diego is practically undeveloped1 and contains an immense area1 in scattered mesas and valleys1 of land which will produce apples1 grain1 and grass without irrigation1 and which the settler can get at moderate prices4 ,nay1 more1 any one with a little ready money1 who goes to ,southern ,california expecting to establish himself and willing to work1 will be welcomed and aided1 and be pretty certain to find some place where he can steadily improve his condition4 ,but the regions about which one hears most1 which are already fruit gardens and well sprinkled with rose-clad homes1 command prices per acre which seem extravagant4 ,land1 however1 like a mine1 gets its value from what it will produce2 and it is to be noted that while the subsidence of the boom knocked the value out of twenty-feet city lots staked out in the wilderness1 and out of insanely inflated city property1 the land upon which crops are raised has steadily appreciated in value4 ,so many conditions enter into the price of land that it is impossible to name an average price for the arable land of the southern counties1 but ,i have heard good judges place it at #ajj an acre4 ,the lands1 with water1 are very much alike in their producing power1 but some1 for climatic reasons1 are better adapted to citrus fruits1 others to the raisin grape1 and others to deciduous fruits4 ,the value is also affected by railway facilities1 contiguity to the local commercial centre1 and also by the character of the settlement--that is1 by its morality1 public spirit1 and facilities for education4 ,every town and settlement thinks it has special advantages as to improved irrigation1 equability of temperature1 adaptation to this or that product1 attractions for invalids1 tempered ocean breezes1 protection from northers1 schools1 and varied industries4 ,these things are so much matter of personal choice that each settler will do well to examine widely for himself1 and not buy until he is suited4 ,some figures1 which may be depended on1 of actual sales and of annual yields1 may be of service4 ,they are of the district east of ,pasadena and ,pomona1 but fairly represent the whole region down to ,los ,angeles4 ,the selling price of raisin grape land unimproved1 but with water1 at ,riverside is #bej to #cjj per acre2 at ,south ,riverside1 #aej to #bjj2 in the highland district of ,san ,bernardino1 and at ,redlands 7which is a new settlement east of the city of ,san ,bernardino71 #bjj to #bej per acre4 ,at ,banning and at ,hesperia1 which lie north of the ,san ,bernardino range1 #abe to #aej per acre are the prices asked4 ,distance from the commercial centre accounts for the difference in price in the towns named4 ,the crop varies with the care and skill of the cultivator1 but a fair average from the vines at two years is two tons per acre2 three years1 three tons2 four years1 five tons2 five years1 seven tons4 ,the price varies with the season1 and also whether its sale is upon the vines1 or after picking1 drying1 and sweating1 or the packed product4 ,on the vines #bj per ton is a fair average price4 ,in exceptional cases vineyards at ,riverside have produced four tons per acre in twenty months from the setting of the cuttings1 and six-year-old vines have produced thirteen and a half tons per acre4 ,if the grower has a crop of1 say1 #bjjj packed boxes of raisins of twenty pounds each box1 it will pay him to pack his own crop and establish a brand for it4 ,in #ahhi three adjoining vineyards in ,riverside1 producing about the same average crops1 were sold as follows3 ,the first vineyard1 at #ag #ej per ton on the vines1 yielded #aej per acre2 the second1 at six cents a pound1 in the sweat boxes1 yielded #bgf per acre2 the third1 at #a #hj per box1 packed1 yielded #dad per acre4 ,land adapted to the deciduous fruits1 such as apricots and peaches1 is worth as much as raisin land1 and some years pays better4 ,the pear and the apple need greater elevation1 and are of better quality when grown on high ground than in the valleys4 ,i have reason to believe that the mountain regions of ,san ,diego ,county are specially adapted to the apple4 ,good orange land unimproved1 but with water1 is worth from #cjj to #ejj an acre4 ,if we add to this price the cost of budded trees1 the care of them for four years1 and interest at eight per cent4 per annum for four years1 the cost of a good grove will be about #ajjj an acre4 ,it must be understood that the profit of an orange grove depends upon care1 skill1 and business ability4 ,the kind of orange grown with reference to the demand1 the judgment about more or less irrigation as affecting the quality1 the cultivation of the soil1 and the arrangements for marketing1 are all elements in the problem4 ,there are young groves at ,riverside1 five years old1 that are paying ten per cent4 net upon from #cjjj to #ejjj an acre2 while there are older groves1 which1 at the prices for fruit in the spring of #ahij--a #fj per box for seedlings and #c per box for navels delivered at the packing-houses--paid at the rate of ten per cent4 net on #gejj per acre4 ,in all these estimates water must be reckoned as a prime factor4 ,what1 then1 is water worth per inch1 generally1 in all this fruit region from ,redlands to ,los ,angeles8 ,it is worth just the amount it will add to the commercial value of land irrigated by it1 and that may be roughly estimated at from #ejj to #ajjj an inch of continuous flow4 ,take an illustration4 ,a piece of land at ,riverside below the flow of water was worth #cjj an acre4 ,contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated which would not sell for #ej an acre4 ,by bringing water to it1 it would quickly sell for #cjj1 thus adding #bej to its value4 ,as the estimate at ,riverside is that one inch of water will irrigate five acres of fruit land1 five times #bej would be #abej per inch1 at which price water for irrigation has actually been sold at ,riverside4 ,the standard of measurement of water in ,southern ,california is the miner's inch under four inches' pressure1 or the amount that will flow through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the opening through which it flows4 ,this is nine gallons a minute1 or1 as it is figured1 #agbh cubic feet or #ab1ifj gallons in twenty-four hours1 and #a4ej of a cubic foot a second4 ,this flow would cover ten acres about eighteen inches deep in a year2 that is1 it would give the land the equivalent of eighteen inches of rain1 distributed exactly when and where it was needed1 none being wasted1 and more serviceable than fifty inches of rainfall as it generally comes4 ,this1 with the natural rainfall1 is sufficient for citrus fruits and for corn and alfalfa1 in soil not too sandy1 and it is too much for grapes and all deciduous fruits4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,advantages ,,of ,,irrigation4 ,it is necessary to understand this problem of irrigation in order to comprehend ,southern ,california1 the exceptional value of its arable land1 the certainty and great variety of its products1 and the part it is to play in our markets4 ,there are three factors in the expectation of a crop--soil1 sunshine1 and water4 ,in a region where we can assume the first two to be constant1 the only uncertainty is water4 ,southern ,california is practically without rain from ,may to ,december4 ,upon this fact rests the immense value of its soil1 and the certainty that it can supply the rest of the ,union with a great variety of products4 ,this certainty must be purchased by a previous investment of money4 ,water is everywhere to be had for money1 in some localities by surface wells1 in others by artesian-wells1 in others from such streams as the ,los ,angeles and the ,santa ,ana1 and from reservoirs secured by dams in the heart of the high mountains4 ,it is possible to compute the cost of any one of the systems of irrigation1 to determine whether it will pay by calculating the amount of land it will irrigate4 ,the cost of procuring water varies greatly with the situation1 and it is conceivable that money can be lost in such an investment1 but ,i have yet to hear of any irrigation that has not been more or less successful4 ,farming and fruit-raising are usually games of hazard4 ,good crops and poor crops depend upon enough rain and not too much at just the right times4 ,a wheat field which has a good start with moderate rain may later wither in a drought1 or be ruined by too much water at the time of maturity4 ,and1 avoiding all serious reverses from either dryness or wet1 every farmer knows that the quality and quantity of the product would be immensely improved if the growing stalks and roots could have water when and only when they need it4 ,the difference would be between1 say1 twenty and forty bushels of grain or roots to the acre1 and that means the difference between profit and loss4 ,there is probably not a crop of any kind grown in the great ,west that would not be immensely benefited if it could be irrigated once or twice a year2 and probably anywhere that water is attainable the cost of irrigation would be abundantly paid in the yield from year to year4 ,farming in the ,west with even a little irrigation would not be the game of hazard that it is4 ,and it may further be assumed that there is not a vegetable patch or a fruit orchard ,east or ,west that would not yield better quality and more abundantly with irrigation4 ,illustration3 ,,raisin-,,curing4 ,but this is not all4 ,any farmer who attempts to raise grass and potatoes and strawberries on contiguous fields1 subject to the same chance of drought or rainfall1 has a vivid sense of his difficulties4 ,the potatoes are spoiled by the water that helps the grass1 and the coquettish strawberry will not thrive on the regimen that suits the grosser crops4 ,in ,california1 which by its climate and soil gives a greater variety of products than any other region in the ,union1 the supply of water is adjusted to the needs of each crop1 even on contiguous fields4 ,no two products need the same amount of water1 or need it at the same time4 ,the orange needs more than the grape1 the alfalfa more than the orange1 the peach and apricot less than the orange2 the olive1 the fig1 the almond1 the ,english walnut1 demand each a different supply4 ,depending entirely on irrigation six months of the year1 the farmer in ,southern ,california is practically certain of his crop year after year2 and if all his plants and trees are in a healthful condition1 as they will be if he is not too idle to cultivate as well as irrigate1 his yield will be about double what it would be without systematic irrigation4 ,it is this practical control of the water the year round1 in a climate where sunshine is the rule1 that makes the productiveness of ,california so large as to be incomprehensible to ,eastern people4 ,even the trees are not dormant more than three or four months in the year4 ,but irrigation1 in order to be successful1 must be intelligently applied4 ,in unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit4 ,mr4 ,theodore ,s4 ,van ,dyke1 who may always be quoted with confidence1 says that the ground should never be flooded2 that water must not touch the plant or tree1 or come near enough to make the soil bake around it2 and that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days1 and not in large streams for a few hours4 ,it is of the first importance that the ground shall be stirred as soon as dry enough1 the cultivation to be continued1 and water never to be substituted for the cultivator to prevent baking4 ,the methods of irrigation in use may be reduced to three4 ,first1 the old ,mexican way--running a small ditch from tree to tree1 without any basin round the tree4 ,second1 the basin system1 where a large basin is made round the tree1 and filled several times4 ,this should only be used where water is scarce1 for it trains the roots like a brush1 instead of sending them out laterally into the soil4 ,third1 the ,riverside method1 which is the best in the world1 and produces the largest results with the least water and the least work4 ,it is the closest imitation of the natural process of wetting by gentle rain4 ,a small flume1 eight or ten inches square1 of common red-wood is laid along the upper side of a ten-acre tract4 ,at intervals of one to three feet1 according to the nature of the ground and the stuff to be irrigated1 are bored one-inch holes1 with a small wooden button over them to regulate the flow4 ,this flume costs a trifle1 is left in position1 lasts for years1 and is always ready4 ,into this flume is turned from the ditch an irrigating head of #bj1 #be1 or #cj inches of water1 generally about #bj inches4 ,this is divided by the holes and the buttons into streams of from one-sixth to one-tenth of an inch each1 making from #abj to #bjj small streams4 ,from five to seven furrows are made between two rows of trees1 two between rows of grapes1 one furrow between rows of corn1 potatoes1 etc4 ,it may take from fifteen to twenty hours for one of the streams to get across the tract4 ,they are allowed to run from forty-eight to seventy-two hours4 ,the ground is then thoroughly wet in all directions1 and three or four feet deep4 ,as soon as the ground is dry enough cultivation is begun1 and kept up from six to eight weeks before water is used again4 ,only when the ground is very sandy is the basin system necessary4 ,long experiment has taught that this system is by far the best2 and1 says ,mr4 ,van ,dyke1 ,those whose ideas are taken from the wasteful systems of flooding or soaking from big ditches have something to learn in ,southern ,california4 ,as to the quantity of water needed in the kind of soil most common in ,southern ,california ,i will again quote ,mr4 ,van ,dyke3 ,they will tell you at ,riverside that they use an inch of water to five acres1 and some say an inch to three acres4 ,but this is because they charge to the land all the waste on the main ditch1 and because they use thirty per cent4 of the water in ,july and ,august1 when it is the lowest4 ,but this is no test of the duty of water2 the amount actually delivered on the land should be taken4 ,what they actually use for ten acres at ,riverside1 ,redlands1 etc41 is a twenty-inch stream of three days' run five times a year1 equal to #cjj inches for one day1 or one inch steady run for #cjj days4 ,as an inch is the equivalent of #cfe inches for one day1 or one inch for #cfe days1 #cjj inches for one day equals an inch to twelve acres4 ,many use even less than this1 running the water only two or two and a half days at a time4 ,others use more head2 but it rarely exceeds #bd inches for three days and five times a year1 which would be #gb multiplied by #e1 or #cfj inches--a little less than a full inch for a year for ten acres4 ,illustration3 ,,irrigation ,,by ,,artesian-,,well ,,system4 ,illustration3 ,,irrigation ,,by ,,pipe ,,system4 ,i have given room to these details because the ,riverside experiment1 which results in such large returns of excellent fruit1 is worthy of the attention of cultivators everywhere4 ,the constant stirring of the soil1 to keep it loose as well as to keep down useless growths1 is second in importance only to irrigation4 ,some years ago1 when it was ascertained that tracts of land which had been regarded as only fit for herding cattle and sheep would by good ploughing and constant cultivation produce fair crops without any artificial watering1 there spread abroad a notion that irrigation could be dispensed with4 ,there are large areas1 dry and cracked on the surface1 where the soil is moist three and four feet below the surface in the dry season4 ,by keeping the surface broken and well pulverized the moisture rises sufficiently to insure a crop4 ,many ,western farmers have found out this secret of cultivation1 and more will learn in time the good sense of not spreading themselves over too large an area2 that forty acres planted and cultivated will give a better return than eighty acres planted and neglected4 ,crops of various sorts are raised in ,southern ,california by careful cultivation with little or no irrigation1 but the idea that cultivation alone will bring sufficiently good production is now practically abandoned1 and the almost universal experience is that judicious irrigation always improves the crop in quality and in quantity1 and that irrigation and cultivation are both essential to profitable farming or fruit-raising4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,the ,,chance ,,for ,,laborers ,,and ,,small ,,farmers4 ,it would seem1 then1 that capital is necessary for successful agriculture or horticulture in ,southern ,california4 ,but where is it not needed8 ,in ,new ,england8 ,in ,kansas1 where land which was given to actual settlers is covered with mortgages for money absolutely necessary to develop it8 ,but passing this by1 what is the chance in ,southern ,california for laborers and for mechanics8 ,let us understand the situation4 ,in ,california there is no exception to the rule that continual labor1 thrift1 and foresight are essential to the getting of a good living or the gaining of a competence4 ,no doubt speculation will spring up again4 ,it is inevitable with the present enormous and yearly increasing yield of fruits1 the better intelligence in vine culture1 wine-making1 and raisin-curing1 the growth of marketable oranges1 lemons1 etc41 and the consequent rise in the value of land4 ,doubtless fortunes will be made by enterprising companies who secure large areas of unimproved land at low prices1 bring water on them1 and then sell in small lots4 ,but this will come to an end4 ,the tendency is to subdivide the land into small holdings--into farms and gardens of ten and twenty acres4 ,the great ranches are sure to be broken up4 ,with the resulting settlement by industrious people the cities will again experience booms2 but these are not peculiar to ,california4 ,in my mind ,i see the time when this region 7because it will pay better proportionally to cultivate a small area7 will be one of small farms1 of neat cottages1 of industrious homes4 ,the owner is pretty certain to prosper--that is1 to get a good living 7which is independence71 and lay aside a little yearly--if the work is done by himself and his family4 ,and the peculiarity of the situation is that the farm or garden1 whichever it is called1 will give agreeable and most healthful occupation to all the boys and girls in the family all the days in the year that can be spared from the school4 ,aside from the ploughing1 the labor is light4 ,pruning1 grafting1 budding1 the picking of the grapes1 the gathering of the fruit from the trees1 the sorting1 packing1 and canning1 are labor for light and deft hands1 and labor distributed through the year4 ,the harvest1 of one sort and another1 is almost continuous1 so that young girls and boys can have1 in well-settled districts1 pretty steady employment--a long season in establishments packing oranges2 at another time1 in canning fruits2 at another1 in packing raisins4 ,it goes without saying that in the industries now developed1 and in others as important which are in their infancy 7for instance1 the culture of the olive for oil and as an article of food2 the growth and curing of figs2 the gathering of almonds1 ,english walnuts1 etc471 the labor of the owners of the land and their families will not suffice4 ,there must be as large a proportion of day-laborers as there are in other regions where such products are grown4 ,chinese labor at certain seasons has been a necessity4 ,under the present policy of ,california this must diminish1 and its place be taken by some other4 ,the pay for this labor has always been good4 ,it is certain to be more and more in demand4 ,whether the pay will ever approach near to the ,european standard is a question1 but it is a fair presumption that the exceptional profit of the land1 owing to its productiveness1 will for a long time keep wages up4 ,during the boom period all wages were high1 those of skilled mechanics especially1 owing to the great amount of building on speculation4 ,the ordinary laborer on a ranch had #cj a month and board and lodging2 laborers of a higher grade1 #b to #b #ej a day2 skilled masons1 #f2 carpenters1 from #c #ej to #e2 plasterers1 #d to #e2 house-servants1 from #bc to #cc a month4 ,since the boom1 wages of skilled mechanics have declined at least #be per cent41 and there has been less demand for labor generally1 except in connection with fruit raising and harvesting4 ,it would be unwise for laborers to go to ,california on an uncertainty1 but it can be said of that country with more confidence than of any other section that its peculiar industries1 now daily increasing1 will absorb an increasing amount of day labor1 and later on it will remunerate skilled artisan labor4 ,in deciding whether ,southern ,california would be an agreeable place of residence there are other things to be considered besides the productiveness of the soil1 the variety of products1 the ease of out-door labor distributed through the year1 the certainty of returns for intelligent investment with labor1 the equability of summer and winter1 and the adaptation to personal health4 ,there are always disadvantages attending the development of a new country and the evolution of a new society4 ,it is not a small thing1 and may be one of daily discontent1 the change from a landscape clad with verdure1 the riotous and irrepressible growth of a rainy region1 to a land that the greater part of the year is green only where it is artificially watered1 where all the hills and unwatered plains are brown and sere1 where the foliage is coated with dust1 and where driving anywhere outside the sprinkled avenues of a town is to be enveloped in a cloud of powdered earth4 ,this discomfort must be weighed against the commercial advantages of a land of irrigation4 ,illustration3 ,,garden ,,scene1 ,,santa ,,ana4 ,what are the chances for a family of very moderate means to obtain a foothold and thrive by farming in ,southern ,california8 ,i cannot answer this better than by giving substantially the experience of one family1 and by saying that this has been paralleled1 with change of details1 by many others4 ,of course1 in a highly developed settlement1 where the land is mostly cultivated1 and its actual yearly produce makes its price very high1 it is not easy to get a foothold4 ,but there are many regions--say in ,orange ,county1 and certainly in ,san ,diego--where land can be had at a moderate price and on easy terms of payment4 ,indeed1 there are few places1 as ,i have said1 where an industrious family would not find welcome and cordial help in establishing itself4 ,and it must be remembered that there are many communities where life is very simple1 and the great expense of keeping up an appearance attending life elsewhere need not be reckoned4 ,a few years ago a professional man in a ,new ,england city1 who was in delicate health1 with his wife and five boys1 all under sixteen1 and one too young to be of any service1 moved to ,san ,diego4 ,he had in money a small sum1 less than a thousand dollars4 ,he had no experience in farming or horticulture1 and his health would not have permitted him to do much field work in our climate4 ,fortunately he found in the fertile ,el ,cajon ,valley1 fifteen miles from ,san ,diego1 a farmer and fruit-grower1 who had upon his place a small unoccupied house4 ,into that house he moved1 furnishing it very simply with furniture bought in ,san ,diego1 and hired his services to the landlord4 ,the work required was comparatively easy1 in the orchard and vineyards1 and consisted largely in superintending other laborers4 ,the pay was about enough to support his family without encroaching on his little capital4 ,very soon1 however1 he made an arrangement to buy the small house and tract of some twenty acres on which he lived1 on time1 perhaps making a partial payment4 ,he began at once to put out an orange orchard and plant a vineyard2 this he accomplished with the assistance of his boys1 who did practically most of the work after the first planting1 leaving him a chance to give most of his days to his employer4 ,the orchard and vineyard work is so light that a smart1 intelligent boy is almost as valuable a worker in the field as a man4 ,the wife1 meantime1 kept the house and did its work4 ,house-keeping was comparatively easy2 little fuel was required except for cooking2 the question of clothes was a minor one4 ,in that climate wants for a fairly comfortable existence are fewer than with us4 ,from the first1 almost1 vegetables1 raised upon the ground while the vines and oranges were growing1 contributed largely to the support of the family4 ,the out-door life and freedom from worry insured better health1 and the diet of fruit and vegetables1 suitable to the climate1 reduced the cost of living to a minimum4 ,as soon as the orchard and the vineyard began to produce fruit1 the owner was enabled to quit working for his neighbor1 and give all his time to the development of his own place4 ,he increased his planting2 he added to his house2 he bought a piece of land adjoining which had a grove of eucalyptus1 which would supply him with fuel4 ,at first the society circle was small1 and there was no school2 but the incoming of families had increased the number of children1 so that an excellent public school was established4 ,when ,i saw him he was living in conditions of comfortable industry2 his land had trebled in value2 the pair of horses which he drove he had bought cheap1 for they were ,eastern horses2 but the climate had brought them up1 so that the team was a serviceable one in good condition4 ,the story is not one of brilliant success1 but to me it is much more hopeful for the country than the other tales ,i heard of sudden wealth or lucky speculation4 ,it is the founding in an unambitious way of a comfortable home4 ,the boys of the family will branch out1 get fields1 orchards1 vineyards of their own1 and add to the solid producing industry of the country4 ,this orderly1 contented industry1 increasing its gains day by day1 little by little1 is the life and hope of any ,state4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,some ,,details ,,of ,,the ,,wonderful ,,development4 ,it is not the purpose of this volume to describe ,southern ,california4 ,that has been thoroughly done2 and details1 with figures and pictures in regard to every town and settlement1 will be forthcoming on application1 which will be helpful guides to persons who can see for themselves1 or make sufficient allowance for local enthusiasm4 ,but before speaking further of certain industries south of the great mountain ranges1 the region north of the ,sierra ,madre1 which is allied to ,southern ,california by its productions1 should be mentioned4 ,the beautiful antelope plains and the ,kern ,valley 7where land is still cheap and very productive7 should not be overlooked4 ,the splendid ,san ,joaquin ,valley is already speaking loudly and clearly for itself4 ,the region north of the mountains of ,kern ,county1 shut in by the ,sierra ,nevada range on the east and the ,coast ,range on the west1 substantially one valley1 fifty to sixty miles in breadth1 watered by the ,king and the ,san ,joaquin1 and gently sloping to the north1 say for two hundred miles1 is a land of marvellous capacity1 capable of sustaining a dense population4 ,it is cooler in winter than ,southern ,california1 and the summers average much warmer4 ,owing to the greater heat1 the fruits mature sooner4 ,it is just now becoming celebrated for its raisins1 which in quality are unexcelled2 and its area1 which can be well irrigated from the rivers and from the mountains on either side1 seems capable of producing raisins enough to supply the world4 ,it is a wonderfully rich valley in a great variety of products4 ,fresno ,county1 which occupies the centre of this valley1 has #a1bjj1jjj acres of agricultural and #d1djj1jjj of mountain and pasture land4 ,the city of ,fresno1 which occupies land that in #ahgj was a sheep ranch1 is the commercial centre of a beautiful agricultural and fruit region1 and has a population estimated at #ab1jjj4 ,from this centre were shipped in the season of #ahij1 #aejj car-loads of raisins4 ,in #ahfe the only exports of ,fresno ,county were a few bales of wool4 ,the report of #ahhi gave a shipment of #gjj1jjj boxes of raisins1 and the whole export of #ahij1 of all products1 was estimated at #aj1jjj1jjj4 ,whether these figures are exact or not1 there is no doubt of the extraordinary success of the raisin industry1 nor that this is a region of great activity and promise4 ,the traveller has constantly to remind himself that this is a new country1 and to be judged as a new country4 ,it is out of his experience that trees can grow so fast1 and plantations in so short a time put on an appearance of maturity4 ,when he sees a roomy1 pretty cottage overrun with vines and flowering plants1 set in the midst of trees and lawns and gardens of tropical appearance and luxuriance1 he can hardly believe that three years before this spot was desert land4 ,when he looks over miles of vineyards1 of groves of oranges1 olives1 walnuts1 prunes1 the trees all in vigorous bearing1 he cannot believe that five or ten years before the whole region was a waste4 ,when he enters a handsome village1 with substantial buildings of brick1 and perhaps of stone1 with fine school-houses1 banks1 hotels1 an opera-house1 large packing-houses1 and warehouses and shops of all sorts1 with tasteful dwellings and lovely ornamented lawns1 it is hard to understand that all this is the creation of two or three years4 ,yet these surprises meet the traveller at every turn1 and the wonder is that there is not visible more crudeness1 eccentric taste1 and evidence of hasty beginnings4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,grape-,,vine1 ,,montecito ,,valley1 ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,san ,bernardino is comparatively an old town4 ,it was settled in #ahec by a colony of ,mormons from ,salt ,lake4 ,the remains of this colony1 less than a hundred1 still live here1 and have a church like the other sects1 but they call themselves ,josephites1 and do not practise polygamy4 ,there is probably not a sect or schism in the ,united ,states that has not its representative in ,california4 ,until #ahfe ,san ,bernardino was merely a straggling settlement1 and a point of distribution for ,arizona4 ,the discovery that a large part of the county was adapted to the orange and the vine1 and the advent of the ,santa ,f railway1 changed all that4 ,land that then might have been bought for #d an acre is now sold at from #bjj to #cjj1 and the city has become the busy commercial centre of a large number of growing villages1 and of one of the most remarkable orange and vine districts in the world4 ,it has many fine buildings1 a population of about #fjjj1 and a decided air of vigorous business4 ,the great plain about it is mainly devoted to agricultural products1 which are grown without irrigation1 while in the near foot-hills the orange and the vine flourish by the aid of irrigation4 ,artesian-wells abound in the ,san ,bernardino plain1 but the mountains are the great and unfailing source of water supply4 ,the ,bear ,valley ,dam is a most daring and gigantic construction4 ,a solid wall of masonry1 #cjj feet long and #fj feet high1 curving towards the reservoir1 creates an inland lake in the mountains holding water enough to irrigate #bj1jjj acres of land4 ,this is conveyed to distributing reservoirs in the east end of the valley4 ,on a terrace in the foot-hills a few miles to the north1 #bjjj feet above the sea1 are the ,arrow-head ,hot ,springs 7named from the figure of a gigantic arrow-head on the mountain above71 already a favorite resort for health and pleasure4 ,the views from the plain of the picturesque foot-hills and the snow-peaks of the ,san ,bernardino range are exceedingly fine4 ,the marvellous beauty of the purple and deep violet of the giant hills at sunset1 with spotless snow1 lingers in the memory4 ,perhaps the settlement of ,redlands1 ten miles by rail east of ,san ,bernardino1 is as good an illustration as any of rapid development and great promise4 ,it is devoted to the orange and the grape4 ,as late as #ahge much of it was ,government land1 considered valueless4 ,it had a few settlers1 but the town1 which counts now about #bjjj people1 was only begun in #ahhg4 ,it has many solid brick edifices and many pretty cottages on its gentle slopes and rounded hills1 overlooked by the great mountains4 ,the view from any point of vantage of orchards and vineyards and semi-tropical gardens1 with the wide sky-line of noble and snow-clad hills1 is exceedingly attractive4 ,the region is watered by the ,santa ,ana ,river and ,mill ,creek1 but the main irrigating streams1 which make every hill-top to bloom with vegetation1 come from the ,bear ,valley ,reservoir4 ,on a hill to the south of the town the ,smiley ,brothers1 of ,catskill fame1 are building fine residences1 and planting their #abe acres with fruit-trees and vines1 evergreens1 flowers1 and semi-tropic shrubbery in a style of landscape-gardening that in three years at the furthest will make this spot one of the few great showplaces of the country4 ,behind their ridge is the ,san ,mateo ,caon1 through which the ,southern ,pacific ,railway runs1 while in front are the splendid sloping plains1 valleys1 and orange groves1 and the great sweep of mountains from ,san ,jacinto round to the ,sierra ,madre range4 ,it is almost a matchless prospect4 ,the climate is most agreeable1 the plantations increase month by month1 and thus far the orange-trees have not been visited by the scale1 nor the vines by any sickness4 ,although the groves are still young1 there were shipped from ,redlands in the season of #ahhi-ij #hj car-loads of oranges1 of #bhf boxes to the car1 at a price averaging nearly #ajjj a car4 ,that season's planting of oranges was over #abjj acres4 ,it had over #ejjj acres in fruits1 of which nearly #cjjj were in peaches1 apricots1 grapes1 and other sorts called deciduous4 ,riverside may without prejudice be regarded as the centre of the orange growth and trade4 ,the railway shipments of oranges from ,southern ,california in the season of #ahij aggregated about #bdjj car-loads1 or about #hjj1jjj boxes1 of oranges 7in which estimate the lemons are included71 valued at about #a1ejj1jjj4 ,of this shipment more than half was from ,riverside4 ,this has been1 of course1 greatly stimulated by the improved railroad facilities1 among them the shortening of the time to ,chicago by the ,santa ,f route1 and the running of special fruit trains4 ,southern ,california responds like magic to this chance to send her fruits to the ,east1 and the area planted month by month is something enormous4 ,it is estimated that the crop of oranges alone in #ahia will be over #dejj car-loads4 ,we are accustomed to discount all ,california estimates1 but ,i think that no one yet has comprehended the amount to which the shipments to ,eastern markets of vegetables and fresh and canned fruits will reach within five years4 ,i base my prediction upon some observation of the ,eastern demand and the reports of fruit-dealers1 upon what ,i saw of the new planting all over the ,state in #ahij1 and upon the statistics of increase4 ,take ,riverside as an example4 ,in #ahgb it was a poor sheep ranch4 ,in #ahhj-ha it shipped #ae car-loads1 or #dbij boxes1 of oranges2 the amount yearly increased1 until in #ahhh-hi it was #ibe car-loads1 or #bfc1hgi boxes4 ,in #ahij it rose to #abec car-loads1 or #ceh1cda boxes2 and an important fact is that the largest shipment was in ,april 7#dee car-loads1 or #acj1bbf boxes71 at the time when the supply from other orange regions for the markets ,east had nearly ceased4 ,illustration3 ,,irrigating ,,an ,,orchard4 ,it should be said1 also1 that the quality of the oranges has vastly improved4 ,this is owing to better cultivation1 knowledge of proper irrigation1 and the adoption of the best varieties for the soil4 ,as different sorts of oranges mature at different seasons1 a variety is needed to give edible fruit in each month from ,december to ,may inclusive4 ,in ,february1 #ahhg1 ,i could not find an orange of the first class compared with the best fruit in other regions4 ,it may have been too early for the varieties ,i tried2 but ,i believe there has been a marked improvement in quality4 ,in ,may1 #ahij1 we found delicious oranges almost everywhere4 ,the seedless ,washington and ,australian navels are favorites1 especially for the market1 on account of their great size and fine color4 ,when in perfection they are very fine1 but the skin is thick and the texture coarser than that of some others4 ,the best orange ,i happened to taste was a ,tahiti seedling at ,montecito 7,santa ,barbara74 ,it is a small orange1 with a thin skin and a compact1 sweet pulp that leaves little fibre4 ,it resembles the famous orange of ,malta4 ,but there are many excellent varieties--the ,mediterranean sweet1 the paper rind ,st4 ,michael1 the ,maltese blood1 etc4 ,the experiments with seedlings are profitable1 and will give ever new varieties4 ,i noted that the grape fruit1 which is becoming so much liked in the ,east1 is not appreciated in ,california4 ,illustration3 ,,orange ,,culture4 ,packing ,oranges--,navel ,orange-tree ,six ,years ,old--,irrigating an ,orange ,grove4 ,the city of ,riverside occupies an area of some five miles by three1 and claims to have #fjjj inhabitants2 the centre is a substantial town with fine school and other public buildings1 but the region is one succession of orange groves and vineyards1 of comfortable houses and broad avenues4 ,one avenue through which we drove is #abe feet wide and #ab miles long1 planted in three rows with palms1 magnolias1 the ,grevillea robusta 7,australian fern71 the pepper1 and the eucalyptus1 and lined all the way by splendid orange groves1 in the midst of which are houses and grounds with semi-tropical attractions4 ,nothing could be lovelier than such a scene of fruits and flowers1 with the background of purple hills and snowy peaks4 ,the mountain views are superb4 ,frost is a rare visitor4 ,not in fifteen years has there been enough to affect the orange4 ,there is little rain after ,march1 but there are fogs and dew-falls1 and the ocean breeze is felt daily4 ,the grape grown for raisins is the muscat1 and this has had no sickness4 ,vigilance and a quarantine have also kept from the orange the scale which has been so annoying in some other localities4 ,the orange1 when cared for1 is a generous bearer2 some trees produce twenty boxes each1 and there are areas of twenty acres in good bearing which have brought to the owner as much as #aj1jjj a year4 ,the whole region of the ,santa ,ana and ,san ,gabriel valleys1 from the desert on the east to ,los ,angeles1 the city of gardens1 is a surprise1 and year by year an increasing wonder4 ,in production it exhausts the catalogue of fruits and flowers2 its scenery is varied by ever new combinations of the picturesque and the luxuriant2 every town boasts some special advantage in climate1 soil1 water1 or society2 but these differences1 many of them visible to the eye1 cannot appear in any written description4 ,the traveller may prefer the scenery of ,pasadena1 or that of ,pomona1 or of ,riverside1 but the same words in regard to color1 fertility1 combinations of orchards1 avenues1 hills1 must appear in the description of each4 ,ontario1 ,pomona1 ,puente1 ,alhambra--wherever one goes there is the same wonder of color and production4 ,pomona is a pleasant city in the midst of fine orange groves1 watered abundantly by artesian-wells and irrigating ditches from a mountain reservoir4 ,a specimen of the ancient adobe residence is on the ,meserve plantation1 a lovely old place1 with its gardens of cherries1 strawberries1 olives1 and oranges4 ,from the top of ,san ,jos hill we had a view of a plain twenty-five miles by fifty in extent1 dotted with cultivation1 surrounded by mountains--a wonderful prospect4 ,pomona1 like its sister cities in this region1 has a regard for the intellectual side of life1 exhibited in good school-houses and public libraries4 ,in the library of ,pomona is what may be regarded as the tutelary deity of the place--the goddess ,pomona1 a good copy in marble of the famous statue in the ,uffizi ,gallery1 presented to the city by the ,rev4 ,c4 ,f4 ,loop4 ,this enterprising citizen is making valuable experiments in olive culture1 raising a dozen varieties in order to ascertain which is best adapted to this soil1 and which will make the best return in oil and in a marketable product of cured fruit for the table4 ,the growth of the olive is to be1 it seems to me1 one of the leading and most permanent industries of ,southern ,california4 ,it will give us1 what it is nearly impossible to buy now1 pure olive oil1 in place of the cotton-seed and lard mixture in general use4 ,it is a most wholesome and palatable article of food4 ,those whose chief experience of the olive is the large1 coarse1 and not agreeable ,spanish variety1 used only as an appetizer1 know little of the value of the best varieties as food1 nutritious as meat1 and always delicious4 ,good bread and a dish of pickled olives make an excellent meal4 ,the sort known as the ,mission olive1 planted by the ,franciscans a century ago1 is generally grown now1 and the best fruit is from the older trees4 ,the most successful attempts in cultivating the olive and putting it on the market have been made by ,mr4 ,f4 ,a4 ,kimball1 of ,national ,city1 and ,mr4 ,ellwood ,cooper1 of ,santa ,barbara4 ,the experiments have gone far enough to show that the industry is very remunerative4 ,the best olive oil ,i have ever tasted anywhere is that produced from the ,cooper and the ,kimball orchards2 but not enough is produced to supply the local demand4 ,mr4 ,cooper has written a careful treatise on olive culture1 which will be of great service to all growers4 ,the art of pickling is not yet mastered1 and perhaps some other variety will be preferred to the old ,mission for the table4 ,a mature olive grove in good bearing is a fortune4 ,i feel sure that within twenty-five years this will be one of the most profitable industries of ,california1 and that the demand for pure oil and edible fruit in the ,united ,states will drive out the adulterated and inferior present commercial products4 ,but ,california can easily ruin its reputation by adopting the ,european systems of adulteration4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,a ,,field ,,of ,,golden ,,pumpkins4 ,we drove one day from ,arcadia ,station through the region occupied by the ,baldwin plantations1 an area of over fifty thousand acres--a happy illustration of what industry and capital can do in the way of variety of productions1 especially in what are called the ,san ,anita vineyards and orchards1 extending southward from the foot-hills4 ,about the home place and in many sections where the irrigating streams flow one might fancy he was in the tropics1 so abundant and brilliant are the flowers and exotic plants4 ,there are splendid orchards of oranges1 almonds1 ,english walnuts1 lemons1 peaches1 apricots1 figs1 apples1 and olives1 with grain and corn--in short1 everything that grows in garden or field4 ,the ranch is famous for its brandies and wines as well as fruits4 ,we lunched at the ,east ,san ,gabriel ,hotel1 a charming place with a peaceful view from the wide veranda of live-oaks1 orchards1 vineyards1 and the noble ,sierra ,madre range4 ,the ,californians may be excused for using the term paradisiacal about such scenes4 ,flowers1 flowers everywhere1 color on color1 and the song of the mocking-bird6 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,how ,,the ,,fruit ,,perils ,,were ,,met4--,,further ,,details ,,of ,,localities4 ,in the ,san ,gabriel ,valley and elsewhere ,i saw evidence of the perils that attend the culture of the vine and the fruit-tree in all other countries1 and from which ,california in the early days thought it was exempt4 ,within the past three or four years there has prevailed a sickness of the vine1 the cause of which is unknown1 and for which no remedy has been discovered4 ,no blight was apparent1 but the vine sickened and failed4 ,the disease was called consumption of the vine4 ,i saw many vineyards subject to it1 and hundreds of acres of old vines had been rooted up as useless4 ,i was told by a fruit-buyer in ,los ,angeles that he thought the raisin industry below ,fresno was ended unless new planting recovered the vines1 and that the great wine fields were about played out4 ,the truth ,i believe to be that the disease is confined to the vineyards of ,old ,mission grapes4 ,whether these had attained the limit of their active life1 and sickened1 ,i do not know4 ,the trouble for a time was alarming2 but new plantings of other varieties of grapes have been successful1 the vineyards look healthful1 and the growers expect no further difficulty4 ,the planting1 which was for a time suspended1 has been more vigorously renewed4 ,the insect pests attacking the orange were even more serious1 and in #ahhg-hh1 though little was published about it1 there was something like a panic1 in the fear that the orange and lemon culture in ,southern ,california would be a failure4 ,the enemies were the black1 the red1 and the white scale4 ,the latter1 the icerya purchasi1 or cottony cushion scale1 was especially loathsome and destructive2 whole orchards were enfeebled1 and no way was discovered of staying its progress1 which threatened also the olive and every other tree1 shrub1 and flower4 ,science was called on to discover its parasite4 ,this was found to be the ,australian lady-bug 7vedolia cardinalis71 and in #ahhh-hi quantities of this insect were imported and spread throughout ,los ,angeles ,county1 and sent to ,santa ,barbara and other afflicted districts4 ,the effect was magical4 ,the vedolia attacked the cottony scale with intense vigor1 and everywhere killed it4 ,the orchards revived as if they had been recreated1 and the danger was over4 ,the enemies of the black and the red scale have not yet been discovered1 but they probably will be4 ,meantime the growers have recovered courage1 and are fertilizing and fumigating4 ,in ,santa ,ana ,i found that the red scale was fought successfully by fumigating the trees4 ,the operation is performed at night under a movable tent1 which covers the tree4 ,the cost is about twenty cents a tree4 ,one lesson of all this is that trees must be fed in order to be kept vigorous to resist such attacks1 and that fruit-raising1 considering the number of enemies that all fruits have in all climates1 is not an idle occupation4 ,the clean1 handsome ,english walnut is about the only tree in the ,state that thus far has no enemy4 ,one cannot take anywhere else a more exhilarating1 delightful drive than about the rolling1 highly cultivated1 many-villaed ,pasadena1 and out to the foot-hills and the ,sierra ,madre ,villa4 ,he is constantly exclaiming at the varied loveliness of the scene--oranges1 palms1 formal gardens1 hedges of ,monterey cypress4 ,it is very ,italy-like4 ,the ,sierra ,madre furnishes abundant water for all the valley1 and the swift irrigating stream from ,eaton ,caon waters the ,sierra ,madre ,villa4 ,among the peaks above it rises ,mt4 ,wilson1 a thousand feet above the plain1 the site selected for the ,harvard ,observatory with its #dj-;inch glass4 ,the clearness of the air at this elevation1 and the absence of clouds night and day the greater portion of the year1 make this a most advantageous position1 it is said1 to use the glass in dissolving nebul4 ,the ,sierra ,madre ,villa1 once the most favorite resort in this region1 was closed4 ,in its sheltered situation1 its luxuriant and half-neglected gardens1 its wide plantations and irrigating streams1 it reminds one of some secularized monastery on the promontory of ,sorrento4 ,it only needs good management to make the hotel very attractive and especially agreeable in the months of winter4 ,illustration3 ,,packing ,,cherries1 ,,pomona4 ,pasadena1 which exhibits everywhere evidences of wealth and culture1 and claims a permanent population of #ab1jjj1 has the air of a winter resort2 the great ,hotel ,raymond is closed in ,may1 the boarding-houses want occupants1 the shops and livery-stables customers1 and the streets lack movement4 ,this is easily explained4 ,it is not because ,pasadena is not an agreeable summer residence1 but because the visitors are drawn there in the winter principally to escape the inclement climate of the ,north and ,east1 and because special efforts have been made for their entertainment in the winter4 ,we found the atmosphere delightful in the middle of ,may4 ,the mean summer heat is #fg1 and the nights are always cool4 ,the hills near by may be resorted to with the certainty of finding as decided a change as one desires in the summer season4 ,i must repeat that the ,southern ,california summer is not at all understood in the ,east4 ,the statement of the general equability of the temperature the year through must be insisted on4 ,we lunched one day in a typical ,california house1 in the midst of a garden of fruits1 flowers1 and tropical shrubs2 in a house that might be described as half roses and half tent1 for added to the wooden structure were rooms of canvas1 which are used as sleeping apartments winter and summer4 ,this attractive region1 so lovely in its cultivation1 with so many charming drives1 offering good shooting on the plains and in the hills1 and centrally placed for excursions1 is only eight miles from the busy city of ,los ,angeles4 ,an excellent point of view of the country is from the graded hill on which stands the ,raymond ,hotel1 a hill isolated but easy of access1 which is in itself a mountain of bloom1 color1 and fragrance4 ,from all the broad verandas and from every window the prospect is charming1 whether the eye rests upon cultivated orchards and gardens and pretty villas1 or upon the purple foot-hills and the snowy ranges4 ,it enjoys a daily ocean breeze1 and the air is always exhilarating4 ,this noble hill is a study in landscape-gardening4 ,it is a mass of brilliant color1 and the hospitality of the region generally to foreign growths may be estimated by the trees acclimated on these slopes4 ,they are the pepper1 eucalyptus1 pine1 cypress1 sycamore1 red-wood1 olive1 date and fan palms1 banana1 pomegranate1 guava1 ,japanese persimmon1 umbrella1 maple1 elm1 locust1 ,english walnut1 birch1 ailantus1 poplar1 willow1 and more ornamental shrubs than one can well name4 ,i can indulge in few locality details except those which are illustrative of the general character of the country4 ,in passing into ,orange ,county1 which was recently set off from ,los ,angeles1 we come into a region of less fashion1 but one that for many reasons is attractive to people of moderate means who are content with independent simplicity4 ,the country about the thriving village of ,santa ,ana is very rich1 being abundantly watered by the ,santa ,ana ,river and by artesian-wells4 ,the town is nine miles from the ocean4 ,on the ocean side the land is mainly agricultural2 on the inland side it is specially adapted to fruit4 ,we drove about it1 and in ,tustin ,city1 which has many pleasant residences and a vacant boom hotel1 through endless plantations of oranges4 ,on the road towards ,los ,angeles we passed large herds of cattle and sheep1 and fine groves of the ,english walnut1 which thrives especially well in this soil and the neighborhood of the sea4 ,there is comparatively little waste land in this valley district1 as one may see by driving through the country about ,santa ,ana1 ,orange1 ,anaheim1 ,tustin ,city1 etc4 ,anaheim is a prosperous ,german colony4 ,it was here that ,madame ,modjeska and her husband1 ,count ,bozenta1 first settled in ,california4 ,they own and occupy now a picturesque ranch in the ,santiago ,caon of the ,santa ,ana range1 twenty-two miles from ,santa ,ana4 ,this is one of the richest regions in the ,state1 and with its fair quota of working population1 it will be one of the most productive4 ,from ,newport1 on the coast1 or from ,san ,pedro1 one may visit the island of ,santa ,catalina4 ,want of time prevented our going there4 ,sportsmen enjoy there the exciting pastime of hunting the wild goat4 ,from the photographs ,i saw1 and from all ,i heard of it1 it must be as picturesque a resort in natural beauty as the ,british ,channel islands4 ,los ,angeles is the metropolitan centre of all this region4 ,a handsome1 solid1 thriving city1 environed by gardens1 gay everywhere with flowers1 it is too well known to require any description from me4 ,to the traveller from the ,east it will always be a surprise4 ,its growth has been phenomenal1 and although it may not equal the expectations of the crazy excitement of #ahhf-hg1 #ej1jjj people is a great assemblage for a new city which numbered only about #aa1jjj in #ahhj4 ,it of course felt the subsidence of the boom1 but while ,i missed the feverish crowds of #ahhg1 ,i was struck with its substantial progress in fine1 solid buildings1 pavements1 sewerage1 railways1 educational facilities1 and ornamental grounds4 ,it has a secure hold on the commerce of the region4 ,the assessment roll of the city increased from #g1fbg1fcb in #ahha to #dd1hga1jgc in #ahhi4 ,its bank business1 public buildings1 school-houses1 and street improvements are in accord with this increase1 and show solid1 vigorous growth4 ,it is altogether an attractive city1 whether seen on a drive through its well-planted and bright avenues1 or looked down on from the hills which are climbed by the cable roads4 ,a curious social note was the effect of the boom excitement upon the birth rate4 ,the report of children under the age of one year was in #ahhg1 #bga boy babies and #bfd girl babies2 from #ahhg to #ahhh there were only #agf boy babies and #afb girl babies4 ,the return at the end of #ahhi was #dfe boy babies1 and #ejj girl babies4 ,illustration3 ,,olive-,,trees ,,six ,,years ,,old4 ,although ,los ,angeles ,county still produces a considerable quantity of wine and brandy1 ,i have an impression that the raising of raisins will supplant wine-making largely in ,southern ,california1 and that the principal wine producing will be in the northern portions of the ,state4 ,it is certain that the best quality is grown in the foot-hills4 ,the reputation of ,california wines has been much injured by placing upon the market crude juice that was in no sense wine4 ,great improvement has been made in the past three to five years1 not only in the vine and knowledge of the soil adapted to it1 but in the handling and the curing of the wine4 ,one can now find without much difficulty excellent table wines--sound claret1 good white ,reisling1 and sauterne4 ,none of these wines are exactly like the foreign wines1 and it may be some time before the taste accustomed to foreign wines is educated to like them4 ,but in ,eastern markets some of the best brands are already much called for1 and ,i think it only a question of time and a little more experience when the best ,california wines will be popular4 ,i found in the ,san ,francisco market excellent red wines at #c4ej the case1 and what was still more remarkable1 at some of the best hotels sound1 agreeable claret at from fifteen to twenty cents the pint bottle4 ,it is quite unnecessary to emphasize the attractions of ,santa ,barbara1 or the productiveness of the valleys in the counties of ,santa ,barbara and ,ventura4 ,there is no more poetic region on the continent than the bay south of ,point ,conception1 and the pen and the camera have made the world tolerably familiar with it4 ,there is a graciousness1 a softness1 a color in the sea1 the caons1 the mountains there that dwell in the memory4 ,it is capable of inspiring the same love that the ,greek colonists felt for the region between the bays of ,salerno and ,naples4 ,it is as fruitful as the ,italian shores1 and can support as dense a population4 ,the figures that have been given as to productiveness and variety of productions apply to it4 ,having more winter rainfall than the counties south of it1 agriculture is profitable in most years4 ,since the railway was made down the valley of the ,santa ,clara ,river and along the coast to ,santa ,barbara1 a great impulse has been given to farming4 ,orange and other fruit orchards have increased4 ,near ,buenaventura ,i saw hundreds of acres of lima beans4 ,the yield is about one ton to the acre4 ,with good farming the valleys yield crops of corn1 barley1 and wheat much above the average4 ,still it is a fruit region1 and no variety has yet been tried that does not produce very well there4 ,the rapid growth of all trees has enabled the region to demonstrate in a short time that there is scarcely any that it cannot naturalize4 ,the curious growths of tropical lands1 the trees of aromatic and medicinal gums1 the trees of exquisite foliage and wealth of fragrant blossoms1 the sturdy forest natives1 and the bearers of edible nuts are all to be found in the gardens and by the road-side1 from ,new ,england1 from the ,southern ,states1 from ,europe1 from ,north and ,south ,africa1 ,southern ,asia1 ,china1 ,japan1 from ,australia and ,new ,zealand and ,south ,america4 ,the region is an arboreal and botanical garden on an immense scale1 and full of surprises4 ,the floriculture is even more astonishing4 ,every land is represented4 ,the profusion and vigor are as wonderful as the variety4 ,at a flower show in ,santa ,barbara were exhibited #afj varieties of roses all cut from one garden the same morning4 ,the open garden rivals the ,eastern conservatory4 ,the country is new and many of the conditions of life may be primitive and rude1 but it is impossible that any region shall not be beautiful1 clothed with such a profusion of bloom and color4 ,i have spoken of the rapid growth4 ,the practical advantage of this as to fruit-trees is that one begins to have an income from them here sooner than in the ,east4 ,no one need be under the delusion that he can live in ,california without work1 or thrive without incessant and intelligent industry1 but the distinction of the country for the fruit-grower is the rapidity with which trees and vines mature to the extent of being profitable4 ,but nothing thrives without care1 and kindly as the climate is to the weak1 it cannot be too much insisted on that this is no place for confirmed invalids who have not money enough to live without work4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,advance ,,of ,,cultivation ,,southward4 ,the immense county of ,san ,diego is on the threshold of its development4 ,it has comparatively only spots of cultivation here and there1 in an area on the western slope of the county only1 that ,mr4 ,van ,dyke estimates to contain about one million acres of good arable land for farming and fruit-raising4 ,this mountainous region is full of charming valleys1 and hidden among the hills are fruitful nooks capable of sustaining thriving communities4 ,there is no doubt about the salubrity of the climate1 and one can literally suit himself as to temperature by choosing his elevation4 ,the traveller by rail down the wild ,temecula ,caon will have some idea of the picturesqueness of the country1 and1 as he descends in the broadening valley1 of the beautiful mountain parks of live-oak and clear running water1 and of the richness both for grazing and grain of the ranches of the ,santa ,margarita1 ,las ,flores1 and ,santa ,rosa4 ,or if he will see what a few years of vigorous cultivation will do1 he may visit ,escondido1 on the river of that name1 which is at an elevation of less than a thousand feet1 and fourteen miles from the ocean4 ,this is only one of many settlements that have great natural beauty and thrifty industrial life4 ,in that region are numerous attractive villages4 ,i have a report from a little caon1 a few miles north of ,escondido1 where a woman with an invalid husband settled in #ahhc4 ,the ground was thickly covered with brush1 and its only product was rabbits and quails4 ,in #ahhh they had #ajj acres cleared and fenced1 mostly devoted to orchard fruits and berries4 ,they had in good bearing over #abjj fruit-trees among them #bjj oranges and #bhc figs1 which yielded one and a half tons of figs a week during the bearing season1 from ,august to ,november4 ,the sprouts of the peach-trees grew twelve feet in #ahhi4 ,of course such a little fruit farm as this is the result of self-denial and hard work1 but ,i am sure that the experiment in this region need not be exceptional4 ,illustration3 ,,sexton ,,nurseries1 ,,near ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,san ,diego will be to the southern part of the ,state what ,san ,francisco is to the northern4 ,nature seems to have arranged for this1 by providing a magnificent harbor1 when it shut off the southern part by a mountain range4 ,during the town-lot lunacy it was said that ,san ,diego could not grow because it had no back country1 and the retort was that it needed no back country1 its harbor would command commerce4 ,the fallacy of this assumption lay in the forgetfulness of the fact that the profitable and peculiar exports of ,southern ,california must go ,east by rail1 and reach a market in the shortest possible time1 and that the inhabitants look to the ,pacific for comparatively little of the imports they need4 ,if the ,isthmus route were opened by a ship-canal1 ,san ,diego would doubtless have a great share of the ,pacific trade1 and when the population of that part of the ,state is large enough to demand great importations from the islands and lands of the ,pacific1 this harbor will not go begging4 ,but in its present development the entire ,pacific trade of ,japan1 ,china1 and the islands1 gives only a small dividend each to the competing ports4 ,for these developments this fine harbor must wait1 but meantime the wealth and prosperity of ,san ,diego lie at its doors4 ,a country as large as the three richest ,new ,england ,states1 with enormous wealth of mineral and stone in its mountains1 with one of the finest climates in the world1 with a million acres of arable land1 is certainly capable of building up one great seaport town4 ,these million of acres on the western slope of the mountain ranges of the country are geographically tributary to ,san ,diego1 and almost every acre by its products is certain to attain a high value4 ,the end of the ridiculous speculation in lots of #ahhg-hh was not so disastrous in the loss of money invested1 or even in the ruin of great expectations by the collapse of fictitious values1 as in the stoppage of immigration4 ,the country has been ever since adjusting itself to a normal growth1 and the recovery is just in proportion to the arrival of settlers who come to work and not to speculate4 ,i had heard that the boom had left ,san ,diego and vicinity the deadest region to be found anywhere4 ,a speculator would probably so regard it4 ,but the people have had a great accession of common-sense4 ,the expectation of attracting settlers by a fictitious show has subsided1 and attention is directed to the development of the natural riches of the country4 ,since the boom ,san ,diego has perfected a splendid system of drainage1 paved its streets1 extended its railways1 built up the business part of the town solidly and handsomely1 and greatly improved the mesa above the town4 ,in all essentials of permanent growth it is much better in appearance than in #ahhg4 ,business is better organized1 and1 best of all1 there is an intelligent appreciation of the agricultural resources of the country4 ,it is discovered that ,san ,diego has a back country capable of producing great wealth4 ,the ,chamber of ,commerce has organized a permanent exhibition of products4 ,it is assisted in this work of stimulation by competition by a ,ladies' ,annex1 a society numbering some five hundred ladies1 who devote themselves not to sthetic pursuits1 but to the quickening of all the industries of the farm and the garden1 and all public improvements4 ,illustration3 ,,sweetwater ,,dam4 ,to the mere traveller who devotes only a couple of weeks to an examination of this region it is evident that the spirit of industry is in the ascendant1 and the result is a most gratifying increase in orchards and vineyards1 and the storage and distribution of water for irrigation4 ,the region is unsurpassed for the production of the orange1 the lemon1 the raisin-grape1 the fig1 and the olive4 ,the great reservoir of the ,cuyamaca1 which supplies ,san ,diego1 sends its flume around the fertile valley of ,el ,cajon 7which has already a great reputation for its raisins71 and this has become a garden1 the land rising in value every year4 ,the region of ,national ,city and ,chula ,vista is supplied by the reservoir made by the great ,sweetwater ,dam--a marvel of engineering skill--and is not only most productive in fruit1 but is attractive by pretty villas and most sightly and agreeable homes4 ,it is an unanswerable reply to the inquiry if this region was not killed by the boom that all the arable land1 except that staked out for fancy city prices1 has steadily risen in value4 ,this is true of all the bay region down through ,otay 7where a promising watch factory is established7 to the border at ,tia ,juana4 ,the rate of settlement in the county outside of the cities and towns has been greater since the boom than before--a most healthful indication for the future4 ,according to the school census of #ahhi1 ,mr4 ,van ,dyke estimates a permanent growth of nearly #ej1jjj people in the county in four years4 ,half of these are well distributed in small settlements which have the advantages of roads1 mails1 and school-houses1 and which offer to settlers who wish to work adjacent unimproved land at prices which experience shows are still moderate4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,a ,,land ,,of ,,agreeable ,,homes4 ,in this imperfect conspectus of a vast territory ,i should be sorry to say anything that can raise false expectations4 ,our country is very big2 and though scarcely any part of it has not some advantages1 and notwithstanding the census figures of our population1 it will be a long time before our vast territory will fill up4 ,california must wait with the rest2 but it seems to me to have a great future4 ,its position in the ,union with regard to its peculiar productions is unique4 ,it can and will supply us with much that we now import1 and labor and capital sooner or later will find their profit in meeting the growing demand for ,california products4 ,there are many people in the ,united ,states who could prolong life by moving to ,southern ,california2 there are many who would find life easier there by reason of the climate1 and because out-door labor is more agreeable there the year through2 many who have to fight the weather and a niggardly soil for existence could there have pretty little homes with less expense of money and labor4 ,it is well that people for whom this is true should know it4 ,it need not influence those who are already well placed to try the fortune of a distant country and new associations4 ,i need not emphasize the disadvantage in regard to beauty of a land that can for half the year only keep a vernal appearance by irrigation2 but to eyes accustomed to it there is something pleasing in the contrast of the green valleys with the brown and gold and red of the hills4 ,the picture in my mind for the future of the ,land of the ,sun1 of the mountains1 of the sea--which is only an enlargement of the picture of the present--is one of great beauty4 ,the rapid growth of fruit and ornamental trees and the profusion of flowers render easy the making of a lovely home1 however humble it may be4 ,the nature of the industries--requiring careful attention to a small piece of ground--points to small holdings as a rule4 ,the picture ,i see is of a land of small farms and gardens1 highly cultivated1 in all the valleys and on the foot-hills2 a land1 therefore1 of luxuriance and great productiveness and agreeable homes4 ,i see everywhere the gardens1 the vineyards1 the orchards1 with the various greens of the olive1 the fig1 and the orange4 ,it is always picturesque1 because the country is broken and even rugged2 it is always interesting1 because of the contrast with the mountains and the desert2 it has the color that makes ,southern ,italy so poetic4 ,it is the fairest field for the experiment of a contented community1 without any poverty and without excessive wealth4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,some ,,wonders ,,by ,,the ,,way4--,,yosemite4--,,mariposa ,,trees4--,,monterey4 ,i went to it with reluctance4 ,i shrink from attempting to say anything about it4 ,if you knew that there was one spot on the earth where ,nature kept her secret of secrets1 the key to the action of her most gigantic and patient forces through the long eras1 the marvel of constructive and destructive energy1 in features of sublimity made possible to mental endurance by the most exquisite devices of painting and sculpture1 the wonder which is without parallel or comparison1 would you not hesitate to approach it8 ,would you not wander and delay with this and that wonder1 and this and that beauty and nobility of scenery1 putting off the day when the imagination1 which is our highest gift1 must be extinguished by the reality8 ,the mind has this judicious timidity4 ,do we not loiter in the avenue of the temple1 dallying with the vista of giant plane-trees and statues1 and noting the carving and the color1 mentally shrinking from the moment when the full glory shall burst upon us8 ,we turn and look when we are near a summit1 we pick a flower1 we note the shape of the clouds1 the passing breeze1 before we take the last step that shall reveal to us the vast panorama of mountains and valleys4 ,i cannot bring myself to any description of the ,grand ,caon of the ,colorado by any other route1 mental or physical1 than that by which we reached it1 by the way of such beauty as ,monterey1 such a wonder as the ,yosemite1 and the infinite and picturesque deserts of ,new ,mexico and ,arizona4 ,i think the mind needs the training in the desert scenery to enable it to grasp the unique sublimity of the ,grand ,caon4 ,the road to the ,yosemite1 after leaving the branch of the ,southern ,pacific at ,raymond1 is an unnecessarily fatiguing one4 ,the journey by stage--sixty-five miles--is accomplished in less than two days--thirty-nine miles the first day1 and twenty-six the second4 ,the driving is necessarily slow1 because two mountain ridges have to be surmounted1 at an elevation each of about #fejj feet4 ,the road is not a road at all as the term is understood in ,switzerland1 ,spain1 or in any highly civilized region--that is1 a graded1 smooth1 hard1 and sufficiently broad track4 ,it is a makeshift highway1 generally narrow 7often too narrow for two teams to pass71 cast up with loose material1 or excavated on the slopes with frequent short curves and double curves4 ,like all mountain roads which skirt precipices1 it may seem pokerish1 but it is safe enough if the drivers are skilful and careful 7all the drivers on this route are not only excellent1 but exceedingly civil as well71 and there is no break in wagon or harness4 ,at the season this trip is made the weather is apt to be warm1 but this would not matter so much if the road were not intolerably dusty4 ,over a great part of the way the dust rises in clouds and is stifling4 ,on a well-engineered road1 with a good road-bed1 the time of passage might not be shortened1 but the journey would be made with positive comfort and enjoyment1 for though there is a certain monotony in the scenery1 there is the wild freshness of nature1 now and then an extensive prospect1 a sight of the snow-clad ,nevadas1 and vast stretches of woodland2 and a part of the way the forests are magnificent1 especially the stupendous growth of the sugar-pine4 ,these noble forests are now protected by their inaccessibility4 ,from #ahee to #ahfd1 nine years1 the ,yosemite had #fec visitors2 in #ahfd there were #adg4 ,the number increased steadily till #ahfi1 the year the overland railroad was completed1 when it jumped to #aabb4 ,between #djjj and #ejjj persons visit it now each year4 ,the number would be enormously increased if it could be reached by rail1 and doubtless a road will be built to the valley in the near future1 perhaps up the ,merced ,river4 ,i believe that the pilgrims who used to go to the ,yosemite on foot or on horseback regret the building of the stage road1 the enjoyment of the wonderful valley being somehow cheapened by the comparative ease of reaching it4 ,it is feared that a railway would still further cheapen1 if it did not vulgarize it1 and that passengers by train would miss the mountain scenery1 the splendid forests1 the surprises of the way 7like the first view of the valley from ,inspiration ,point71 and that the ,mariposa big trees would be farther off the route than they are now4 ,the traveller sees them now by driving eight miles from ,wawona1 the end of the first day's staging4 ,but the romance for the few there is in staging will have to give way to the greater comfort of the many by rail4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,yosemite ,,dome4 ,the railway will do no more injury to the ,yosemite than it has done to ,niagara1 and1 in fact1 will be the means of immensely increasing the comfort of the visitor's stay there1 besides enabling tens of thousands of people to see it who cannot stand the fatigue of the stage ride over the present road4 ,the ,yosemite will remain as it is4 ,the simplicity of its grand features is unassailable so long as the ,government protects the forests that surround it and the streams that pour into it4 ,the visitor who goes there by rail will find plenty of adventure for days and weeks in following the mountain trails1 ascending to the great points of view1 exploring the caons1 or climbing so as to command the vast stretch of the snowy ,sierras4 ,or1 if he is not inclined to adventure1 the valley itself will satisfy his highest imaginative flights of the sublime in rock masses and perpendicular ledges1 and his sense of beauty in the graceful water-falls1 rainbow colors1 and exquisite lines of domes and pinnacles4 ,it is in the grouping of objects of sublimity and beauty that the ,yosemite excels4 ,the narrow valley1 with its gigantic walls1 which vary in every change of the point of view1 lends itself to the most astonishing scenic effects1 and these the photograph has reproduced1 so that the world is familiar with the striking features of the valley1 and has a tolerably correct idea of the sublimity of some of these features4 ,what the photograph cannot do is to give an impression of the unique grouping1 of the majesty1 and at times crushing weight upon the mind of the forms and masses1 of the atmospheric splendor and illusion1 and of the total value of such an assemblage of wonders4 ,the level surface of the peaceful1 park-like valley has much to do with the impression4 ,the effect of ,el ,capitan1 seen across a meadow and rising from a beautiful park1 is much greater than if it were encountered in a savage mountain gorge4 ,the traveller may have seen elsewhere greater water-falls1 and domes and spires of rock as surprising1 but he has nowhere else seen such a combination as this4 ,he may be fortified against surprise by the photographs he has seen and the reports of word painters1 but he will not escape 7say1 at ,inspiration ,point1 or ,artist ,point1 or other lookouts71 a quickening of the pulse and an elation which is physical as well as mental1 in the sight of such unexpected sublimity and beauty4 ,and familiarity will scarcely take off the edge of his delight1 so varied are the effects in the passing hours and changing lights4 ,the ,rainbow ,fall1 when water is abundant1 is exceedingly impressive as well as beautiful4 ,seen from the carriage road1 pouring out of the sky overhead1 it gives a sense of power1 and at the proper hour before sunset1 when the vast mass of leaping1 foaming water is shot through with the colors of the spectrum1 it is one of the most exquisite sights the world can offer2 the elemental forces are overwhelming1 but the loveliness is engaging4 ,one turns from this to the noble mass of ,el ,capitan with a shock of surprise1 however often it may have been seen4 ,this is the hour also1 in the time of high-water1 to see the reflection of the ,yosemite ,falls4 ,as a spectacle it is infinitely finer than anything at ,mirror ,lake1 and is unique in its way4 ,to behold this beautiful series of falls1 flowing down out of the blue sky above1 and flowing up out of an equally blue sky in the depths of the earth1 is a sight not to be forgotten4 ,and when the observer passes from these displays to the sight of the aerial domes in the upper end of the valley1 new wonders opening at every turn of the forest road1 his excitement has little chance of subsiding3 he may be even a little oppressed4 ,the valley1 so verdant and friendly with grass and trees and flowers1 is so narrow compared with the height of its perpendicular guardian walls1 and this little secluded spot is so imprisoned in the gigantic mountains1 that man has a feeling of helplessness in it4 ,this powerlessness in the presence of elemental forces was heightened by the deluge of water4 ,there had been an immense fall of snow the winter before1 the ,merced was a raging torrent1 overflowing its banks1 and from every ledge poured a miniature cataract4 ,illustration3 ,,coast ,,of ,,monterey4 ,noble simplicity is the key-note to the scenery of the ,yosemite1 and this is enhanced by the park-like appearance of the floor of the valley4 ,the stems of the fine trees are in harmony with the perpendicular lines1 and their foliage adds the necessary contrast to the gray rock masses4 ,in order to preserve these forest-trees1 the underbrush1 which is liable to make a conflagration in a dry season1 should be removed generally1 and the view of the great features be left unimpeded4 ,the minor caons and the trails are1 of course1 left as much as possible to the riot of vegetation4 ,the ,state ,commission1 which labors under the disadvantages of getting its supplies from a ,legislature that does not appreciate the value of the ,yosemite to ,california1 has developed the trails judiciously1 and established a model trail service4 ,the ,yosemite1 it need not be said1 is a great attraction to tourists from all parts of the world2 it is the interest of the ,state1 therefore1 to increase their number by improving the facilities for reaching it1 and by resolutely preserving all the surrounding region from ravage4 ,illustration3 ,,cypress ,,point4 ,illustration3 ,,near ,,seal ,,rock4 ,this is as true of the ,mariposa big tree region as of the valley4 ,indeed1 more care is needed for the trees than for the great chasm1 for man cannot permanently injure the distinctive features of the latter1 while the destruction of the sequoias will be an irreparable loss to the ,state and to the world4 ,the ,sequoia gigantea differs in leaf1 and size and shape of cone1 from the great ,sequoia semper virens on the coast near ,santa ,cruz2 neither can be spared4 ,the ,mariposa trees1 scattered along on a mountain ridge #fejj feet above the sea1 do not easily obtain their victory1 for they are a part of a magnificent forest of other growths1 among which the noble sugar-pine is conspicuous for its enormous size and graceful vigor4 ,the sequoias dominate among splendid rivals only by a magnitude that has no comparison elsewhere in the world4 ,i think no one can anticipate the effect that one of these monarchs will have upon him4 ,he has read that a coach and six can drive through one of the trees that is standing2 that another is thirty-three feet in diameter1 and that its vast stem1 #cej feet high1 is crowned with a mass of foliage that seems to brush against the sky4 ,he might be prepared for a tower #ajj feet in circumference1 and even #djj feet high1 standing upon a level plain2 but this living growth is quite another affair4 ,each tree is an individual1 and has a personal character4 ,no man can stand in the presence of one of these giants without a new sense of the age of the world and the insignificant span of one human life2 but he is also overpowered by a sense of some gigantic personality4 ,it does not relieve him to think of this as the ,methuselah of trees1 or to call it by the name of some great poet or captain4 ,the awe the tree inspires is of itself4 ,as one lies and looks up at the enormous bulk1 it seems not so much the bulk1 so lightly is it carried1 as the spirit of the tree--the elastic vigor1 the patience1 the endurance of storm and change1 the confident might1 and the soaring1 almost contemptuous pride1 that overwhelm the puny spectator4 ,it is just because man can measure himself1 his littleness1 his brevity of existence1 with this growth out of the earth1 that he is more personally impressed by it than he might be by the mere variation in the contour of the globe which is called a mountain4 ,the imagination makes a plausible effort to comprehend it1 and is foiled4 ,no2 clearly it is not mere size that impresses one2 it is the dignity1 the character in the tree1 the authority and power of antiquity4 ,side by side of these venerable forms are young sequoias1 great trees themselves1 that have only just begun their millennial career--trees that will1 if spared1 perpetuate to remote ages this race of giants1 and in two to four thousand years from now take the place of their great-grandfathers1 who are sinking under the weight of years1 and one by one measuring their length on the earth4 ,illustration3 ,,laguna1 ,,from ,,the ,,south-,,east4 ,the transition from the sublime to the exquisitely lovely in nature can nowhere else be made with more celerity than from the ,sierras to the coast at ,monterey2 ,california abounds in such contrasts and surprises4 ,after the great stirring of the emotions by the ,yosemite and the ,mariposa1 the ,hotel del ,monte ,park and vicinity offer repose1 and make an appeal to the sense of beauty and refinement4 ,yet even here something unique is again encountered4 ,i do not refer to the extraordinary beauty of the giant live-oaks and the landscape-gardening about the hotel1 which have made ,monterey famous the world over1 but to the sea-beach drive of sixteen miles1 which can scarcely be rivalled elsewhere either for marine loveliness or variety of coast scenery4 ,it has points like the ocean drive at ,newport1 but is altogether on a grander scale1 and shows a more poetic union of shore and sea2 besides1 it offers the curious and fascinating spectacles of the rocks inhabited by the sea-lions1 and the ,cypress ,point4 ,these huge1 uncouth creatures can be seen elsewhere1 but probably nowhere else on this coast are they massed in greater numbers4 ,the trees of ,cypress ,point are unique1 this species of cypress having been found nowhere else4 ,the long1 never-ceasing swell of the ,pacific incessantly flows up the many crescent sand beaches1 casting up shells of brilliant hues1 sea-weed1 and kelp1 which seems instinct with animal life1 and flotsam from the far-off islands4 ,but the rocks that lie off the shore1 and the jagged points that project in fanciful forms1 break the even great swell1 and send the waters1 churned into spray and foam1 into the air with a thousand hues in the sun4 ,the shock of these sharp collisions mingles with the heavy ocean boom4 ,cypress ,point is one of the most conspicuous of these projections1 and its strange trees creep out upon the ragged ledges almost to the water's edge4 ,these cypresses are quite as instinct with individual life and quite as fantastic as any that ,dor drew for his ,inferno4 ,they are as gnarled and twisted as olive-trees two centuries old1 but their attitudes seem not only to show struggle with the elements1 but agony in that struggle4 ,the agony may be that of torture in the tempest1 or of some fabled creatures fleeing and pursued1 stretching out their long arms in terror1 and fixed in that writhing fear4 ,they are creatures of the sea quite as much as of the land1 and they give to this lovely coast a strange charm and fascination4 ,,chapter1 ,,xvi4 ,,fascinations ,,of ,,the ,,desert4--,,the ,,laguna ,,pueblo4 ,the traveller to ,california by the ,santa ,f route comes into the arid regions gradually1 and finds each day a variety of objects of interest that upsets his conception of a monotonous desert land4 ,if he chooses to break the continental journey midway1 he can turn aside at ,las ,vegas to the ,hot ,springs4 ,here1 at the head of a picturesque valley1 is the ,montezuma ,hotel1 a luxurious and handsome house1 #fgfg feet above sea-level1 a great surprise in the midst of the broken and somewhat savage ,new ,mexican scenery4 ,the low hills covered with pines and pions1 the romantic glens1 and the wide views from the elevations about the hotel1 make it an attractive place2 and a great deal has been done1 in the erection of bath-houses1 ornamental gardening1 and the grading of roads and walks1 to make it a comfortable place4 ,the latitude and the dryness of the atmosphere insure for the traveller from the ,north in our winter an agreeable reception1 and the elevation makes the spot in the summer a desirable resort from ,southern heat4 ,it is a sanitarium as well as a pleasure resort4 ,the ,hot ,springs have much the same character as the ,tplitz waters in ,bohemia1 and the saturated earth--the ,mtterlager--furnishes the curative mud baths which are enjoyed at ,marienbad and ,carlsbad4 ,the union of the climate1 which is so favorable in diseases of the respiratory organs1 with the waters1 which do so much for rheumatic sufferers1 gives a distinction to ,las ,vegas ,hot ,springs4 ,this ,new ,mexican air--there is none purer on the globe--is an enemy to hay-fever and malarial diseases4 ,it was a wise enterprise to provide that those who wish to try its efficacy can do so at the ,montezuma without giving up any of the comforts of civilized life4 ,illustration3 ,,church ,,at ,,laguna4 ,it is difficult to explain to one who has not seen it1 or will not put himself in the leisurely frame of mind to enjoy it1 the charms of the desert of the high plateaus of ,new ,mexico and ,arizona4 ,its arid character is not so impressive as its ancientness2 and the part which interests us is not only the procession of the long geologic eras1 visible in the extinct volcanoes1 the barrancas1 the painted buttes1 the petrified forests1 but as well in the evidences of civilizations gone by1 or the remains of them surviving in our day--the cliff dwellings1 the ruins of cities that were thriving when ,coronado sent his lieutenants through the region three centuries ago1 and the present residences of the ,pueblo ,indians1 either villages perched upon an almost inaccessible rock like ,acamo1 or clusters of adobe dwellings like ,isleta and ,laguna4 ,the ,pueblo ,indians1 of whom the ,zuis are a tribe1 have been dwellers in villages and cultivators of the soil and of the arts of peace immemorially1 a gentle1 amiable race4 ,it is indeed such a race as one would expect to find in the land of the sun and the cactus4 ,their manners and their arts attest their antiquity and a long refinement in fixed dwellings and occupations4 ,the whole region is a most interesting field for the antiquarian4 ,we stopped one day at ,laguna1 which is on the ,santa ,f line west of ,isleta1 another ,indian pueblo at the ,atlantic and ,pacific junction1 where the road crosses the ,rio ,grande del ,norte west of ,albuquerque4 ,near ,laguna a little stream called the ,rio ,puerco flows southward and joins the ,rio ,grande4 ,there is verdure along these streams1 and gardens and fruit orchards repay the rude irrigation4 ,in spite of these watercourses the aspect of the landscape is wild and desert-like--low barren hills and ragged ledges1 wide sweeps of sand and dry gray bushes1 with mountains and long lines of horizontal ledges in the distance4 ,laguna is built upon a rounded elevation of rock4 ,its appearance is exactly that of a ,syrian village1 the same cluster of little1 square1 flat-roofed houses in terraces1 the same brown color1 and under the same pale blue sky4 ,and the resemblance was completed by the figures of the women on the roofs1 or moving down the slope1 erect and supple1 carrying on the head a water jar1 and holding together by one hand the mantle worn like a ,spanish rebozo4 ,the village is irregularly built1 without much regard to streets or alleys1 and it has no special side of entrance or approach4 ,every side presents a blank wall of adobe1 and the entrance seems quite by chance4 ,yet the way we went over1 the smooth slope was worn here and there in channels three or four inches deep1 as if by the passing feet of many generations4 ,the only semblance of architectural regularity is in the plaza1 not perfectly square1 upon which some of the houses look1 and where the annual dances take place4 ,the houses have the effect of being built in terraces rising one above the other1 but it is hard to say exactly what a house is--whether it is anything more than one room4 ,you can reach some of the houses only by aid of a ladder4 ,you enter others from the street4 ,if you will go farther you must climb a ladder which brings you to the roof that is used as the sitting-room or door-yard of the next room4 ,from this room you may still ascend to others1 or you may pass through low and small door-ways to other apartments4 ,it is all haphazard1 but exceedingly picturesque4 ,you may find some of the family in every room1 or they may be gathered1 women and babies1 on a roof which is protected by a parapet4 ,at the time of our visit the men were all away at work in their fields4 ,notwithstanding the houses are only sun-dried bricks1 and the village is without water or street commissioners1 ,i was struck by the universal cleanliness4 ,there was no refuse in the corners or alleys1 no odors1 and many of the rooms were patterns of neatness4 ,to be sure1 an old woman here and there kept her hens in an adjoining apartment above her own1 and there was the litter of children and of rather careless house-keeping4 ,but1 taken altogether1 the town is an example for some more civilized1 whose inhabitants wash oftener and dress better than these ,indians4 ,illustration3 ,,terraced ,,houses1 ,,pueblo ,,of ,,laguna4 ,we were put on friendly terms with the whole settlement through three or four young maidens who had been at the ,carlisle school1 and spoke ,english very prettily4 ,they were of the ages of fifteen and sixteen1 and some of them had been five years away4 ,they came back1 so far as ,i could learn1 gladly to their own people and to the old ways4 ,they had resumed the ,indian dress1 which is much more becoming to them1 as ,i think they know1 than that which had been imposed upon them4 ,i saw no books4 ,they do not read any now1 and they appear to be perfectly content with the idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition4 ,in time they will marry in their tribe1 and the school episode will be a thing of the past4 ,but not altogether4 ,the pretty ,josephine1 who was our best cicerone about the place1 a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien1 showed us with pride her own room1 or house1 as she called it1 neat as could be1 simply furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot1 a mirror1 chair1 and table1 and a trunk1 and some advertising prints on the walls4 ,she said that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother1 and her present ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to buy a cooking stove1 so that she could cook more as the whites do4 ,the house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her2 but it was not burdensome1 ,i fancied1 and she and the other girls of her age had leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train1 in hope of selling something to the passengers1 and to sit on the rocks in the sun and dream as maidens do4 ,i fancy it would be better for ,josephine and for all the rest if there were no station and no passing trains4 ,the elder women were uniformly ugly1 but not repulsive like the ,mojaves2 the place swarmed with children1 and the babies1 aged women1 and pleasing young girls grouped most effectively on the roofs4 ,the whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to know them well1 which we did in the course of an hour1 and they enjoyed as much as we did the bargaining for pottery4 ,they have for sale a great quantity of small pieces1 fantastic in form and brilliantly colored--toys1 in fact2 but we found in their houses many beautiful jars of large size and excellent shape1 decorated most effectively4 ,the ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty in design and painted artistically4 ,like the ancient ,peruvians1 they make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds4 ,some of the designs of the decoration are highly conventionalized1 and others are just in the proper artistic line of the natural--a spray with a bird1 or a sunflower on its stalk4 ,the ware is all unglazed1 exceedingly light and thin1 and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when struck4 ,some of the large jars are classic in shape1 and recall in form and decoration the ancient ,cypriote ware1 but the colors are commonly brilliant and barbaric4 ,the designs seem to be indigenous1 and to betray little ,spanish influence4 ,the art displayed in this pottery is indeed wonderful1 and1 to my eye1 much more effective and lastingly pleasing than much of our cultivated decoration4 ,a couple of handsome jars that ,i bought of an old woman1 she assured me she made and decorated herself2 but ,i saw no ovens there1 nor any signs of manufacture1 and suppose that most of the ware is made at ,acoma4 ,it did not seem to be a very religious community1 although the town has a ,catholic church1 and ,i understand that ,protestant services are sometimes held in the place4 ,the church is not much frequented1 and the only evidence of devotion ,i encountered was in a woman who wore a large and handsome silver cross1 made by the ,navajos4 ,when ,i asked its price1 she clasped it to her bosom1 with an upward look full of faith and of refusal to part with her religion at any price4 ,the church1 which is adobe1 and at least two centuries old1 is one of the most interesting ,i have seen anywhere4 ,it is a simple parallelogram1 #ajd feet long and #ba feet broad1 the gable having an opening in which the bells hang4 ,the interior is exceedingly curious1 and its decorations are worth reproduction4 ,the floor is of earth1 and many of the tribe who were distinguished and died long ago are said to repose under its smooth surface1 with nothing to mark their place of sepulture4 ,it has an open timber roof1 the beams supported upon carved corbels4 ,the ceiling is made of wooden sticks1 about two inches in diameter and some four feet long1 painted in alternated colors--red1 blue1 orange1 and black--and so twisted or woven together as to produce the effect of plaited straw1 a most novel and agreeable decoration4 ,over the entrance is a small gallery1 the under roof of which is composed of sticks laid in straw pattern and colored4 ,all around the wall runs a most striking dado1 an odd1 angular pattern1 with conventionalized birds at intervals1 painted in strong yet fade colors--red1 yellow1 black1 and white4 ,the north wall is without windows2 all the light1 when the door is closed1 comes from two irregular windows1 without glass1 high up in the south wall4 ,illustration3 ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,on ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,from ,,point ,,sublime4 ,the chancel walls are covered with frescos1 and there are several quaint paintings1 some of them not very bad in color and drawing4 ,the altar1 which is supported at the sides by twisted wooden pillars1 carved with a knife1 is hung with ancient sheepskins brightly painted4 ,back of the altar are some archaic wooden images1 colored2 and over the altar1 on the ceiling1 are the stars of heaven1 and the sun and the moon1 each with a face in it4 ,the interior was scrupulously clean and sweet and restful to one coming in from the glare of the sun on the desert4 ,it was evidently little used1 and the ,indians who accompanied us seemed under no strong impression of its sanctity2 but we liked to linger in it1 it was so bizarre1 so picturesque1 and exhibited in its rude decoration so much taste4 ,two or three small birds flitting about seemed to enjoy the coolness and the subdued light1 and were undisturbed by our presence4 ,these are children of the desert1 kin in their condition and the influences that formed them to the sedentary tribes of upper ,egypt and ,arabia1 who pitch their villages upon the rocky eminences1 and depend for subsistence upon irrigation and scant pasturage4 ,their habits are those of the dwellers in an arid land which has little in common with the wilderness--the inhospitable northern wilderness of rain and frost and snow4 ,rain1 to be sure1 insures some sort of vegetation in the most forbidding and intractable country1 but that does not save the harsh landscape from being unattractive4 ,the high plateaus of ,new ,mexico and ,arizona have everything that the rainy wilderness lacks--sunshine1 heaven's own air1 immense breadth of horizon1 color and infinite beauty of outline1 and a warm soil with unlimited possibilities when moistened4 ,all that these deserts need is water4 ,a fatal want8 ,no4 ,that is simply saying that science can do for this region what it cannot do for the high wilderness of frost--by the transportation of water transform it into gardens of bloom and fields of fruitfulness4 ,the wilderness shall be made to feed the desert4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,at ,,laguna4 ,i confess that these deserts in the warm latitudes fascinate me4 ,perhaps it is because ,i perceive in them such a chance for the triumph of the skill of man1 seeing how1 here and there1 his energy has pushed the desert out of his path across the continent4 ,but ,i fear that ,i am not so practical4 ,to many the desert in its stony sterility1 its desolateness1 its unbroken solitude1 its fantastic savageness1 is either appalling or repulsive4 ,to them it is tiresome and monotonous4 ,the vast plains of ,kansas and ,nebraska are monotonous even in the agricultural green of summer4 ,not so to me the desert4 ,it is as changeable in its lights and colors as the ocean4 ,it is even in its general features of sameness never long the same4 ,if you traverse it on foot or on horseback1 there is ever some minor novelty4 ,and on the swift train1 if you draw down the curtain against the glare1 or turn to your book1 you are sure to miss something of interest--a deep caon rift in the plain1 a turn that gives a wide view glowing in a hundred hues in the sun1 a savage gorge with beetling rocks1 a solitary butte or red truncated pyramid thrust up into the blue sky1 a horizontal ledge cutting the horizon line as straight as a ruler for miles1 a pointed cliff uplifted sheer from the plain and laid in regular courses of ,cyclopean masonry1 the battlements of a fort1 a terraced castle with towers and esplanade1 a great trough of a valley1 gray and parched1 enclosed by far purple mountains4 ,and then the unlimited freedom of it1 its infinite expansion1 its air like wine to the senses1 the floods of sunshine1 the waves of color1 the translucent atmosphere that aids the imagination to create in the distance all architectural splendors and realms of peace4 ,it is all like a mirage and a dream4 ,we pass swiftly1 and make a moving panorama of beauty in hues1 of strangeness in forms1 of sublimity in extent1 of overawing and savage antiquity4 ,i would miss none of it4 ,and when we pass to the accustomed again1 to the fields of verdure and the forests and the hills of green1 and are limited in view and shut in by that which we love1 after all1 better than the arid land1 ,i have a great longing to see again the desert1 to be a part of its vastness1 and to feel once more the freedom and inspiration of its illimitable horizons4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,the ,,heart ,,of ,,the ,,desert4 ,there is an arid region lying in ,northern ,arizona and ,southern ,utah which has been called the ,district of the ,grand ,caon of the ,colorado4 ,the area1 roughly estimated1 contains from #ac1jjj to #af1jjj square miles--about the size of the ,state of ,maryland4 ,this region1 fully described by the explorers and studied by the geologists in the ,united ,states service1 but little known to even the travelling public1 is probably the most interesting territory of its size on the globe4 ,at least it is unique4 ,in attempting to convey an idea of it the writer can be assisted by no comparison1 nor can he appeal in the minds of his readers to any experience of scenery that can apply here4 ,the so-called ,grand ,caon differs not in degree from all other scenes2 it differs in kind4 ,the ,colorado ,river flows southward through ,utah1 and crosses the ,arizona line below the junction with the ,san ,juan4 ,it continues southward1 flowing deep in what is called the ,marble ,caon1 till it is joined by the ,little ,colorado1 coming up from the south-east2 it then turns westward in a devious line until it drops straight south1 and forms the western boundary of ,arizona4 ,the centre of the district mentioned is the westwardly flowing part of the ,colorado4 ,south of the river is the ,colorado ,plateau1 at a general elevation of about #gjjj feet4 ,north of it the land is higher1 and ascends in a series of plateaus1 and then terraces1 a succession of cliffs like a great stair-way1 rising to the high plateaus of ,utah4 ,the plateaus1 adjoining the river on the north and well marked by north and south dividing lines1 or faults1 are1 naming them from east to west1 the ,paria1 the ,kaibab1 the ,kanab1 the ,uinkaret1 and the ,sheavwitz1 terminating in a great wall on the west1 the ,great ,wash fault1 where the surface of the country drops at once from a general elevation of #fjjj feet to from #acjj to #cjjj feet above the sea-level--into a desolate and formidable desert4 ,if the ,grand ,caon itself did not dwarf everything else1 the scenery of these plateaus would be superlative in interest4 ,it is not all desert1 nor are the gorges1 caons1 cliffs1 and terraces1 which gradually prepare the mind for the comprehension of the ,grand ,caon1 the only wonders of this land of enchantment4 ,these are contrasted with the sylvan scenery of the ,kaibab ,plateau1 its giant forests and parks1 and broad meadows decked in the summer with wild flowers in dense masses of scarlet1 white1 purple1 and yellow4 ,the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 the ,pink ,cliffs1 the ,white ,cliffs1 surpass in fantastic form and brilliant color anything that the imagination conceives possible in nature1 and there are dreamy landscapes quite beyond the most exquisite fancies of ,claude and of ,turner4 ,the region is full of wonders1 of beauties1 and sublimities that ,shelley's imaginings do not match in the ,prometheus ,unbound1 and when it becomes accessible to the tourist it will offer an endless field for the delight of those whose minds can rise to the heights of the sublime and the beautiful4 ,in all imaginative writing or painting the material used is that of human experience1 otherwise it could not be understood2 even heaven must be described in the terms of an earthly paradise4 ,human experience has no prototype of this region1 and the imagination has never conceived of its forms and colors4 ,it is impossible to convey an adequate idea of it by pen or pencil or brush4 ,the reader who is familiar with the glowing descriptions in the official reports of ,major ,j4 ,w4 ,powell1 ,captain ,c4 ,e4 ,dutton1 ,lieutenant ,ives1 and others1 will not save himself from a shock of surprise when the reality is before him4 ,this paper deals only with a single view in this marvellous region4 ,illustration3 ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,of ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,opposite ,,point ,,sublime4 ,the point where we struck the ,grand ,caon1 approaching it from the south1 is opposite the promontory in the ,kaibab ,plateau named ,point ,sublime by ,major ,powell1 just north of the #cfth parallel1 and #aab #ae' west longitude4 ,this is only a few miles west of the junction with the ,little ,colorado4 ,about three or four miles west of this junction the river enters the east slope of the east ,kaibab monocline1 and here the ,grand ,caon begins4 ,rapidly the chasm deepens to about #fjjj feet1 or rather it penetrates a higher country1 the slope of the river remaining about the same4 ,through this lofty plateau--an elevation of #gjjj to #ijjj feet--the chasm extends for sixty miles1 gradually changing its course to the north-west1 and entering the ,kanab ,plateau4 ,the ,kaibab division of the ,grand ,caon is by far the sublimest of all1 being #ajjj feet deeper than any other4 ,it is not grander only on account of its greater depth1 but it is broader and more diversified with magnificent architectural features4 ,the ,kanab division1 only less magnificent than the ,kaibab1 receives the ,kanab ,caon from the north and the ,cataract ,caon from the south1 and ends at the ,toroweap ,valley4 ,the section of the ,grand ,caon seen by those who take the route from ,peach ,springs is between #aac and #aad west longitude1 and1 though wonderful1 presents few of the great features of either the ,kaibab or the ,kanab divisions4 ,the ,grand ,caon ends1 west longitude #aad1 at the ,great ,wash1 west of the ,hurricane ,ledge or ,fault4 ,its whole length from ,little ,colorado to the ,great ,wash1 measured by the meanderings of the surface of the river1 is #bbj miles2 by a median line between the crests of the summits of the walls with two-mile cords1 about #aie miles2 the distance in a straight line is #abe miles4 ,in our journey to the ,grand ,caon we left the ,santa ,f line at ,flagstaff1 a new town with a lively lumber industry1 in the midst of a spruce-pine forest which occupies the broken country through which the road passes for over fifty miles4 ,the forest is open1 the trees of moderate size are too thickly set with low-growing limbs to make clean lumber1 and the foliage furnishes the minimum of shade2 but the change to these woods is a welcome one from the treeless reaches of the desert on either side4 ,the caon is also reached from ,williams1 the next station west1 the distance being a little shorter1 and the point on the caon visited being usually a little farther west4 ,but the ,flagstaff route is for many reasons usually preferred4 ,flagstaff lies just south-east of the ,san ,francisco ,mountain1 and on the great ,colorado ,plateau1 which has a pretty uniform elevation of about #gjjj feet above the sea4 ,the whole region is full of interest4 ,some of the most remarkable cliff dwellings are within ten miles of ,flagstaff1 on the ,walnut ,creek ,caon4 ,at ,holbrook1 #ajj miles east1 the traveller finds a road some forty miles long1 that leads to the great petrified forest1 or ,chalcedony ,park4 ,still farther east are the villages of the ,pueblo ,indians1 near the line1 while to the northward is the great reservation of the ,navajos1 a nomadic tribe celebrated for its fine blankets and pretty work in silver--a tribe that preserves much of its manly independence by shunning the charity of the ,united ,states4 ,no ,indians have come into intimate or dependent relations with the whites without being deteriorated4 ,illustration3 ,,tourists ,,in ,,the ,,colorado ,,ca,,on4 ,flagstaff is the best present point of departure1 because it has a small hotel1 good supply stores1 and a large livery-stable1 made necessary by the business of the place and the objects of interest in the neighborhood1 and because one reaches from there by the easiest road the finest scenery incomparably on the ,colorado4 ,the distance is seventy-six miles through a practically uninhabited country1 much of it a desert1 and with water very infrequent4 ,no work has been done on the road2 it is made simply by driving over it4 ,there are a few miles here and there of fair wheeling1 but a good deal of it is intolerably dusty or exceedingly stony1 and progress is slow4 ,in the daytime 7it was the last of ,june7 the heat is apt to be excessive2 but this could be borne1 the air is so absolutely dry and delicious1 and breezes occasionally spring up1 if it were not for the dust4 ,it is1 notwithstanding the novelty of the adventure and of the scenery by the way1 a tiresome journey of two days4 ,a day of rest is absolutely required at the caon1 so that five days must be allowed for the trip4 ,this will cost the traveller1 according to the size of the party made up1 from forty to fifty dollars4 ,but a much longer sojourn at the caon is desirable4 ,our party of seven was stowed in and on an old ,concord coach drawn by six horses1 and piled with camp equipage1 bedding1 and provisions4 ,a four-horse team followed1 loaded with other supplies and cooking utensils4 ,the road lies on the east side of the ,san ,francisco ,mountain4 ,returning1 we passed around its west side1 gaining thus a complete view of this shapely peak4 ,the compact range is a group of extinct volcanoes1 the craters of which are distinctly visible4 ,the cup-like summit of the highest is #ac1jjj feet above the sea1 and snow always lies on the north escarpment4 ,rising about #fjjj feet above the point of view of the great plateau1 it is from all sides a noble object1 the dark rock1 snow-sprinkled1 rising out of the dense growth of pine and cedar4 ,we drove at first through open pine forests1 through park-like intervals1 over the foot-hills of the mountain1 through growths of scrub cedar1 and out into the ever-varying rolling country to widely-extended prospects4 ,two considerable hills on our right attracted us by their unique beauty4 ,upon the summit and side of each was a red glow exactly like the tint of sunset4 ,we thought surely that it was the effect of reflected light1 but the sky was cloudless and the color remained constant4 ,the color came from the soil4 ,the first was called ,sunset ,mountain4 ,one of our party named the other1 and the more beautiful1 ,peachblow ,mountain1 a poetic and perfectly descriptive name4 ,we lunched at noon beside a swift1 clouded1 cold stream of snow-water from the ,san ,francisco1 along which grew a few gnarled cedars and some brilliant wild flowers4 ,the scene was more than picturesque2 in the clear hot air of the desert the distant landscape made a hundred pictures of beauty4 ,behind us the dark form of ,san ,francisco rose up #fjjj feet to its black crater and fields of spotless snow4 ,away off to the north-east1 beyond the brown and gray pastures1 across a far line distinct in dull color1 lay the ,painted ,desert1 like a mirage1 like a really painted landscape1 glowing in red and orange and pink1 an immense city rather than a landscape1 with towers and terraces and faades1 melting into indistinctness as in a rosy mist1 spectral but constant1 weltering in a tropic glow and heat1 walls and columns and shafts1 the wreck of an ,oriental capital on a wide violet plain1 suffused with brilliant color softened into exquisite shades4 ,all over this region nature has such surprises1 that laugh at our inadequate conception of her resources4 ,our camp for the night was at the next place where water could be obtained1 a station of the ,arizona ,cattle ,company4 ,abundant water is piped down to it from mountain springs4 ,the log-house and stable of the cow-boys were unoccupied1 and we pitched our tent on a knoll by the corral4 ,the night was absolutely dry1 and sparkling with the starlight4 ,a part of the company spread their blankets on the ground under the sky4 ,it is apt to be cold in this region towards morning1 but lodging in the open air is no hardship in this delicious climate4 ,the next day the way part of the distance1 with only a road marked by wagon wheels1 was through extensive and barren-looking cattle ranges1 through pretty vales of grass surrounded by stunted cedars1 and over stormy ridges and plains of sand and small bowlders4 ,the water having failed at ,red ,horse1 the only place where it is usually found in the day's march1 our horses went without1 and we had resource to our canteens4 ,the whole country is essentially arid1 but snow falls in the winter-time1 and its melting1 with occasional showers in the summer1 create what are called surface wells1 made by drainage4 ,many of them go dry by ,june4 ,there had been no rain in the region since the last of ,march1 but clouds were gathering daily1 and showers are always expected in ,july4 ,the phenomenon of rain on this baked surface1 in this hot air1 and with this immense horizon1 is very interesting4 ,showers in this tentative time are local4 ,in our journey we saw showers far off1 we experienced a dash for ten minutes1 but it was local1 covering not more than a mile or two square4 ,we have in sight a vast canopy of blue sky1 of forming and dispersing clouds4 ,it is difficult for them to drop their moisture in the rising columns of hot air4 ,the result at times was a very curious spectacle--rain in the sky that did not reach the earth4 ,perhaps some cold current high above us would condense the moisture1 which would begin to fall in long trailing sweeps1 blown like fine folds of muslin1 or like sheets of dissolving sugar1 and then the hot air of the earth would dissipate it1 and the showers would be absorbed in the upper regions4 ,the heat was sometimes intense1 but at intervals a refreshing wind would blow1 the air being as fickle as the rain2 and now and then we would see a slender column of dust1 a thousand or two feet high1 marching across the desert1 apparently not more than two feet in diameter1 and wavering like the threads of moisture that tried in vain to reach the earth as rain4 ,of life there was not much to be seen in our desert route4 ,in the first day we encountered no habitation except the ranch-house mentioned1 and saw no human being2 and the second day none except the solitary occupant of the dried well at ,red ,horse1 and two or three ,indians on the hunt4 ,a few squirrels were seen1 and a rabbit now and then1 and occasionally a bird4 ,the general impression was that of a deserted land4 ,but antelope abound in the timber regions1 and we saw several of these graceful creatures quite near us4 ,excellent antelope steaks1 bought of the wandering ,indian hunters1 added something to our canned supplies4 ,one day as we lunched1 without water1 on the cedar slope of a lovely grass interval1 we saw coming towards us over the swells of the prairie a figure of a man on a horse4 ,it rode to us straight as the crow flies4 ,the ,indian pony stopped not two feet from where our group sat1 and the rider1 who was an ,oualapai chief1 clad in sacking1 with the print of the brand of flour or salt on his back1 dismounted with his ,winchester rifle1 and stood silently looking at us without a word of salutation4 ,he stood there1 impassive1 until we offered him something to eat4 ,having eaten all we gave him1 he opened his mouth and said1 ,smoke 'em8 ,having procured from the other wagon a pipe of tobacco and a pull at the driver's canteen1 he returned to us all smiles4 ,his only baggage was the skull of an antelope1 with the horns1 hung at his saddle4 ,into this he put the bread and meat which we gave him1 mounted the wretched pony1 and without a word rode straight away4 ,at a little distance he halted1 dismounted1 and motioned towards the edge of the timber1 where he had spied an antelope4 ,but the game eluded him1 and he mounted again and rode off across the desert--a strange figure4 ,his tribe lives in the caon some fifty miles west1 and was at present encamped1 for the purpose of hunting1 in the pine woods not far from the point we were aiming at4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,on ,,the ,,brink ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,ca,,on4--,,the ,,unique ,,marvel ,,of ,,nature4 ,the way seemed long4 ,with the heat and dust and slow progress1 it was exceedingly wearisome4 ,our modern nerves are not attuned to the slow crawling of a prairie-wagon4 ,there had been growing for some time in the coach a feeling that the journey did not pay2 that1 in fact1 no mere scenery could compensate for the fatigue of the trip4 ,the imagination did not rise to it4 ,it will have to be a very big caon1 said the duchess4 ,late in the afternoon we entered an open pine forest1 passed through a meadow where the ,indians had set their camp by a shallow pond1 and drove along a ridge1 in the cool shades1 for three or four miles4 ,suddenly1 on the edge of a descent1 we who were on the box saw through the tree-tops a vision that stopped the pulse for a second1 and filled us with excitement4 ,it was only a glimpse1 far off and apparently lifted up--red towers1 purple cliffs1 wide-spread apart1 hints of color and splendor2 on the right distance1 mansions1 gold and white and carmine 7so the light made them71 architectural habitations in the sky it must be1 and suggestions of others far off in the middle distance--a substantial aerial city1 or the ruins of one1 such as the prophet saw in a vision4 ,it was only a glimpse4 ,our hearts were in our mouths4 ,we had a vague impression of something wonderful1 fearful--some incomparable splendor that was not earthly4 ,were we drawing near the ,city8 and should we have yet a more perfect view thereof8 ,was it ,jerusalem or some ,hindoo temples there in the sky8 ,it was builded of pearls and precious stones1 also the streets were paved with gold2 so that by reason of the natural glory of the city1 and the reflection of the sunbeams upon it1 ,christian with desire fell sick4 ,it was a momentary vision of a vast amphitheatre of splendor1 mostly hidden by the trees and the edge of the plateau4 ,we descended into a hollow4 ,there was the well1 a log-cabin1 a tent or two under the pine-trees4 ,we dismounted with impatient haste4 ,the sun was low in the horizon1 and had long withdrawn from this grassy dell4 ,tired as we were1 we could not wait4 ,it was only to ascend the little steep1 stony slope--#cjj yards--and we should see6 ,our party were straggling up the hill3 two or three had reached the edge4 ,i looked up4 ,the duchess threw up her arms and screamed4 ,we were not fifteen paces behind1 but we saw nothing4 ,we took the few steps1 and the whole magnificence broke upon us4 ,no one could be prepared for it4 ,the scene is one to strike dumb with awe1 or to unstring the nerves2 one might stand in silent astonishment1 another would burst into tears4 ,there are some experiences that cannot be repeated--one's first view of ,rome1 one's first view of ,jerusalem4 ,but these emotions are produced by association1 by the sudden standing face to face with the scenes most wrought into our whole life and education by tradition and religion4 ,this was without association1 as it was without parallel4 ,it was a shock so novel that the mind1 dazed1 quite failed to comprehend it4 ,all that we could grasp was a vast confusion of amphitheatres and strange architectural forms resplendent with color4 ,the vastness of the view amazed us quite as much as its transcendent beauty4 ,illustration3 ,,grand ,,ca,,on ,,of ,,the ,,colorado--,,view ,,from ,,the ,,hanse ,,trail4 ,we had expected a caon--two lines of perpendicular walls #fjjj feet high1 with the ribbon of a river at the bottom2 but the reader may dismiss all his notions of a caon1 indeed of any sort of mountain or gorge scenery with which he is familiar4 ,we had come into a new world4 ,what we saw was not a caon1 or a chasm1 or a gorge1 but a vast area which is a break in the plateau4 ,from where we stood it was twelve miles across to the opposite walls--a level line of mesa on the ,utah side4 ,we looked up and down for twenty to thirty miles4 ,this great space is filled with gigantic architectural constructions1 with amphitheatres1 gorges1 precipices1 walls of masonry1 fortresses terraced up to the level of the eye1 temples mountain size1 all brilliant with horizontal lines of color--streaks of solid hues a few feet in width1 streaks a thousand feet in width--yellows1 mingled white and gray1 orange1 dull red1 brown1 blue1 carmine1 green1 all blending in the sunlight into one transcendent suffusion of splendor4 ,afar off we saw the river in two places1 a mere thread1 as motionless and smooth as a strip of mirror1 only we knew it was a turbid1 boiling torrent1 #fjjj feet below us4 ,directly opposite the overhanging ledge on which we stood was a mountain1 the sloping base of which was ashy gray and bluish2 it rose in a series of terraces to a thousand-feet wall of dark red sandstone1 receding upward1 with ranges of columns and many fantastic sculptures1 to a finial row of gigantic opera-glasses #fjjj feet above the river4 ,the great ,san ,francisco ,mountain1 with its snowy crater1 which we had passed on the way1 might have been set down in the place of this one1 and it would have been only one in a multitude of such forms that met the eye whichever way we looked4 ,indeed1 all the vast mountains in this region might be hidden in this caon4 ,wandering a little away from the group and out of sight1 and turning suddenly to the scene from another point of view1 ,i experienced for a moment an indescribable terror of nature1 a confusion of mind1 a fear to be alone in such a presence4 ,with all this grotesqueness and majesty of form and radiance of color1 creation seemed in a whirl4 ,with our education in scenery of a totally different kind1 ,i suppose it would need long acquaintance with this to familiarize one with it to the extent of perfect mental comprehension4 ,the vast abyss has an atmosphere of its own1 one always changing and producing new effects1 an atmosphere and shadows and tones of its own--golden1 rosy1 gray1 brilliant1 and sombre1 and playing a thousand fantastic tricks to the vision4 ,the rich and wonderful color effects1 says ,captain ,dutton1 are due to the inherent colors of the rocks1 modified by the atmosphere4 ,like any other great series of strata in the plateau province1 the carboniferous has its own range of colors1 which might serve to distinguish it1 even if we had no other criterion4 ,the summit strata are pale gray1 with a faint yellowish cast4 ,beneath them the cross-bedded sandstone appears1 showing a mottled surface of pale pinkish hue4 ,underneath this member are nearly #ajjj feet of the lower ,aubrey sandstones1 displaying an intensely brilliant red1 which is somewhat marked by the talus shot down from the gray cherty limestone at the summit4 ,beneath the lower ,aubrey is the face of the ,red ,wall limestone1 from #bjjj to #cjjj feet high4 ,it has a strong red tone1 but a very peculiar one4 ,most of the red strata of the ,west have the brownish or vermilion tones1 but these are rather purplish red1 as if the pigment had been treated to a dash of blue4 ,it is not quite certain that this may not arise in part from the intervention of the blue haze1 and probably it is rendered more conspicuous by this cause2 but1 on the whole1 the purplish cast seems to be inherent4 ,this is the dominant color of the caon1 for the expanse of the rock surface displayed is more than half in the ,red ,wall group4 ,i was continually likening this to a vast city rather than a landscape1 but it was a city of no man's creation nor of any man's conception4 ,in the visions which inspired or crazy painters have had of the ,new ,jerusalem1 of ,babylon the ,great1 of a heaven in the atmosphere1 with endless perspective of towers and steeps that hang in the twilight sky1 the imagination has tried to reach this reality4 ,but here are effects beyond the artist1 forms the architect has not hinted at2 and yet everything reminds us of man's work4 ,and the explorers have tried by the use of ,oriental nomenclature to bring it within our comprehension1 the ,east being the land of the imagination4 ,there is the ,hindoo ,amphitheatre1 the ,bright ,angel ,amphitheatre1 the ,ottoman ,amphitheatre1 ,shiva's ,temple1 ,vishnu's ,temple1 ,vulcan's ,throne4 ,and here1 indeed1 is the idea of the pagoda architecture1 of the terrace architecture1 of the bizarre constructions which rise with projecting buttresses1 rows of pillars1 recesses1 battlements1 esplanades1 and low walls1 hanging gardens1 and truncated pinnacles4 ,it is a city1 but a city of the imagination4 ,in many pages ,i could tell what ,i saw in one day's lounging for a mile or so along the edge of the precipice4 ,the view changed at every step1 and was never half an hour the same in one place4 ,nor did it need much fancy to create illusions or pictures of unearthly beauty4 ,there was a castle1 terraced up with columns1 plain enough1 and below it a parade-ground2 at any moment the knights in armor and with banners might emerge from the red gates and deploy there1 while the ladies looked down from the balconies4 ,but there were many castles and fortresses and barracks and noble mansions4 ,and the rich sculpture in this brilliant color6 ,in time ,i began to see queer details3 a ,richardson house1 with low portals and round arches1 surmounted by a ,nuremberg gable2 perfect panels1 #fjj feet high1 for the setting of pictures2 a train of cars partly derailed at the door of a long1 low warehouse1 with a garden in front of it4 ,there was no end to such devices4 ,it was long before ,i could comprehend the vastness of the view1 see the enormous chasms and rents and seams1 and the many architectural ranges separated by great gulfs1 between me and the wall of the mesa twelve miles distant4 ,away to the north-east was the blue ,navajo ,mountain1 the lone peak in the horizon2 but on the southern side of it lay a desert level1 which in the afternoon light took on the exact appearance of a blue lake2 its edge this side was a wall thousands of feet high1 many miles in length1 and straightly horizontal2 over this seemed to fall water4 ,i could see the foam of it at the foot of the cliff2 and below that was a lake of shimmering silver1 in which the giant precipice and the fall and their color were mirrored4 ,of course there was no silver lake1 and the reflection that simulated it was only the sun on the lower part of the immense wall4 ,some one said that all that was needed to perfect this scene was a ,niagara ,falls4 ,i thought what figure a fall #aej feet high and #cjjj long would make in this arena4 ,it would need a spy-glass to discover it4 ,an adequate ,niagara here should be at least three miles in breadth1 and fall #bjjj feet over one of these walls4 ,and the ,yosemite--ah6 the lovely ,yosemite6 ,dumped down into this wilderness of gorges and mountains1 it would take a guide who knew of its existence a long time to find it4 ,the process of creation is here laid bare through the geologic periods4 ,the strata of rock1 deposited or upheaved1 preserve their horizontal and parallel courses4 ,if we imagine a river flowing on a plain1 it would wear for itself a deeper and deeper channel4 ,the walls of this channel would recede irregularly by weathering and by the coming in of other streams4 ,the channel would go on deepening1 and the outer walls would again recede4 ,if the rocks were of different material and degrees of hardness1 the forms would be carved in the fantastic and architectural manner we find them here4 ,the ,colorado flows through the tortuous inner chasm1 and where we see it1 it is #fjjj feet below the surface where we stand1 and below the towers of the terraced forms nearer it4 ,the splendid views of the caon at this point given in ,captain ,dutton's report are from ,point ,sublime1 on the north side4 ,there seems to have been no way of reaching the river from that point4 ,from the south side the descent1 though wearisome1 is feasible4 ,it reverses mountaineering to descend #fjjj feet for a view1 and there is a certain pleasure in standing on a mountain summit without the trouble of climbing it4 ,hance1 the guide1 who has charge of the well1 has made a path to the bottom4 ,the route is seven miles long4 ,half-way down he has a house by a spring4 ,at the bottom1 somewhere in those depths1 is a sort of farm1 grass capable of sustaining horses and cattle1 and ground where fruit-trees can grow4 ,horses are actually living there1 and parties descend there with tents1 and camp for days at a time4 ,it is a world of its own4 ,some of the photographic views presented here1 all inadequate1 are taken from points on ,hance's trail4 ,but no camera or pen can convey an adequate conception of what ,captain ,dutton happily calls a great innovation in the modern ideas of scenery4 ,to the eye educated to any other1 it may be shocking1 grotesque1 incomprehensible2 but those who have long and carefully studied the ,grand ,caon of the ,colorado do not hesitate for a moment to pronounce it by far the most sublime of all earthly spectacles4 ,i have space only to refer to the geologic history in ,captain ,dutton's report of #ahhb1 of which there should be a popular edition4 ,the waters of the ,atlantic once overflowed this region1 and were separated from the ,pacific1 if at all1 only by a ridge4 ,the story is of long eras of deposits1 of removal1 of upheaval1 and of volcanic action4 ,it is estimated that in one period the thickness of strata removed and transported away was #aj1jjj feet4 ,long after the ,colorado began its work of corrosion there was a mighty upheaval4 ,the reader will find the story of the making of the ,grand ,caon more fascinating than any romance4 ,without knowing this story the impression that one has in looking on this scene is that of immense antiquity1 hardly anywhere else on earth so overwhelming as here4 ,it has been here in all its lonely grandeur and transcendent beauty1 exactly as it is1 for what to us is an eternity1 unknown1 unseen by human eye4 ,to the recent ,indian1 who roved along its brink or descended to its recesses1 it was not strange1 because he had known no other than the plateau scenery4 ,it is only within a quarter of a century that the ,grand ,caon has been known to the civilized world4 ,it is scarcely known now4 ,it is a world largely unexplored4 ,those who best know it are most sensitive to its awe and splendor4 ,it is never twice the same1 for1 as ,i said1 it has an atmosphere of its own4 ,i was told by ,hance that he once saw a thunder-storm in it4 ,he described the chaos of clouds in the pit1 the roar of the tempest1 the reverberations of thunder1 the inconceivable splendor of the rainbows mingled with the colors of the towers and terraces4 ,it was as if the world were breaking up4 ,he fled away to his hut in terror4 ,the day is near when this scenery must be made accessible4 ,a railway can easily be built from ,flagstaff4 ,the projected road from ,utah1 crossing the ,colorado at ,lee's ,ferry1 would come within twenty miles of the ,grand ,caon1 and a branch to it could be built4 ,the region is arid1 and in the sight-seeing part of the year the few surface wells and springs are likely to go dry4 ,the greatest difficulty would be in procuring water for railway service or for such houses of entertainment as are necessary4 ,it could1 no doubt1 be piped from the ,san ,francisco ,mountain4 ,at any rate1 ingenuity will overcome the difficulties1 and travellers from the wide world will flock thither1 for there is revealed the long-kept secret1 the unique achievement of nature4 ,,appendix4 ,a ,,climate ,,for ,,invalids4 ,the following notes on the climate of ,southern ,california1 written by ,dr4 ,h4 ,a4 ,johnson1 of ,chicago1 at the solicitation of the writer of this volume and for his information1 ,i print with his permission1 because the testimony of a physician who has made a special study of climatology in ,europe and ,america1 and is a recognized authority1 belongs of right to the public3 ,the choice of a climate for invalids or semi-invalids involves the consideration of3 ,first1 the invalid1 his physical condition 7that is1 disease71 his peculiarities 7mental and emotional71 his social habits1 and his natural and artificial needs4 ,second1 the elements of climate1 such as temperature1 moisture1 direction and force of winds1 the averages of the elements1 the extremes of variation1 and the rapidity of change4 ,the climates of the western and south-western portions of the ,united ,states are well suited to a variety of morbid conditions1 especially those pertaining to the pulmonary organs and the nervous system4 ,very few localities1 however1 are equally well adapted to diseases of innervation of circulation and respiration4 ,for the first and second1 as a rule1 high altitudes are not advisable2 for the third1 altitudes of from two thousand to six thousand feet are not only admissible but by many thought to be desirable4 ,it seems1 however1 probable that it is to the dryness of the air and the general antagonisms to vegetable growths1 rather than to altitude alone1 that the benefits derived in these regions by persons suffering from consumption and kindred diseases should be credited4 ,proximity to large bodies of water1 river valleys1 and damp plateaus are undesirable as places of residence for invalids with lung troubles4 ,there are exceptions to this rule4 ,localities near the sea with a climate subject to slight variations in temperature1 a dry atmosphere1 little rainfall1 much sunshine1 not so cold in winter as to prevent much out-door life and not so hot in summer as to make out-door exercise exhausting1 are well adapted not only to troubles of the nervous and circulatory systems1 but also to those of the respiratory organs4 ,such a climate is found in the extreme southern portions of ,california4 ,at ,san ,diego the rainfall is much less1 the air is drier1 and the number of sunshiny days very much larger than on our ,atlantic seaboard1 or in ,central and ,northern ,california4 ,the winters are not cold2 flowers bloom in the open air all the year round2 the summers are not hot4 ,the mountains and sea combine to give to this region a climate with few sudden changes1 and with a comfortable range of all essential elements4 ,a residence during a part of the winter of #ahhi-ij at ,coronado ,beach1 and a somewhat careful study of the comparative climatology of the south-western portions of the ,united ,states1 leads me to think that we have few localities where the comforts of life can be secured1 and which at the same time are so well adapted to the needs of a variety of invalids1 as ,san ,diego and its surroundings4 ,in saying this ,i do not wish to be understood as preferring it to all others for some one condition or disease1 but only that for weak hearts1 disabled lungs1 and worn-out nerves it seems to me to be unsurpassed4 ,,chicago1 ,july #ab1 #ahij4 ,,the ,,coming ,,of ,,winter ,,in ,,southern ,,california4 ,from ,mr4 ,theodore ,s4 ,van ,dyke's altogether admirable book on ,southern ,california ,i have permission to quote the following exquisite description of the floral procession from ,december to ,march1 when the ,land of the ,sun is awakened by the first winter rain3 ,sometimes this season commences with a fair rain in ,november1 after a light shower or two in ,october1 but some of the very best seasons begin about the time that all begin to lose hope4 ,november adds its full tribute to the stream of sunshine that for months has poured along the land2 and1 perhaps1 ,december closes the long file of cloudless days with banners of blue and gold4 ,the plains and slopes lie bare and brown2 the low hills that break away from them are yellow with dead foxtail or wild oats1 gray with mustard-stalks1 or ashy green with chemisal or sage4 ,even the chaparral1 that robes the higher hills in living green1 has a tired air1 and the long timber-line that marks the caon winding up the mountain-slopes is decidedly paler4 ,the sea-breeze has fallen off to a faint breath of air2 the land lies silent and dreamy with golden haze2 the air grows drier1 the sun hotter1 and the shade cooler2 the smoke of brush-fires hangs at times along the sky2 the water has risen in the springs and sloughs as if to meet the coming rain1 but it has never looked less like rain than it now does4 ,suddenly a new wind arises from the vast watery plains upon the south-west2 long1 fleecy streams of cloud reach out along the sky2 the distant mountain-tops seem swimming in a film of haze1 and the great ,california weather prophet--a creature upon whom the storms of adverse experience have beaten for years without making even a weather crack in the smooth cheek of his conceit--lavishes his wisdom as confidently as if he had never made a false prediction4 ,after a large amount of fuss1 and enough preliminary skirmishing over the sky for a dozen storms in any ,eastern ,state1 the clouds at last get ready1 and a soft pattering is heard upon the roof--the sweetest music that ever cheers a ,californian ear1 and one which the author of ,the ,rain upon the ,roof should have heard before writing his poem4 ,when the sun again appears it is with a softer1 milder beam than before4 ,the land looks bright and refreshed1 like a tired and dirty boy who has had a good bath and a nap1 and already the lately bare plains and hill-sides show a greenish tinge4 ,fine little leaves of various kinds are springing from the ground1 but nearly all are lost in a general profusion of dark green ones1 of such shape and delicacy of texture that a careless eye might readily take them for ferns4 ,this is the alfileria1 the prevailing flower of the land4 ,the rain may continue at intervals4 ,daily the land grows greener1 while the shades of green1 varied by the play of sunlight on the slopes and rolling hills1 increase in number and intensity4 ,here the color is soft1 and there bright2 yonder it rolls in wavy alternations1 and yonder it reaches in an unbroken shade where the plain sweeps broad and free4 ,for many weeks green is the only color1 though cold nights may perhaps tinge it with a rusty red4 ,about the first of ,february a little starlike flower of bluish pink begins to shine along the ground4 ,this is the bloom of the alfileria1 and swiftly it spreads from the southern slopes1 where it begins1 and runs from meadow to hill-top4 ,soon after a cream-colored bell-flower begins to nod from a tall1 slender stalk2 another of sky-blue soon opens beside it2 beneath these a little five-petaled flower of deep pink tries to outshine the blossoms of the alfileria2 and above them soon stands the radiant shooting-star1 with reflexed petals of white1 yellow1 and pink shining behind its purplish ovaries4 ,on every side violets1 here of the purest golden hue and overpowering fragrance1 appear in numbers beyond all conception4 ,and soon six or seven varieties of clover1 all with fine1 delicate leaves1 unfold flowers of yellow1 red1 and pink4 ,delicate little crucifers of white and yellow shine modestly below all these2 little cream-colored flowers on slender scapes look skyward on every side2 while others of purer white1 with every variety of petal1 crowd up among them4 ,standing now upon some hill-side that commands miles of landscape1 one is dazzled with a blaze of color1 from acres and acres of pink1 great fields of violets1 vast reaches of blue1 endless sweeps of white4 ,upon this--merely the warp of the carpet about to cover the land--the sun fast weaves a woof of splendor4 ,along the southern slopes of the lower hills soon beams the orange light of the poppy1 which swiftly kindles the adjacent slopes1 then flames along the meadow1 and blazes upon the northern hill-sides4 ,spires of green1 mounting on every side1 soon open upon the top into lilies of deep lavender1 and the scarlet bracts of the painted-cup glow side by side with the crimson of the cardinal-flower4 ,and soon comes the iris1 with its broad golden eye fringed with rays of lavender blue2 and five varieties of phacelia overwhelm some places with waves of purple1 blue1 indigo1 and whitish pink4 ,the evening primrose covers the lower slopes with long sheets of brightest yellow1 and from the hills above the rock-rose adds its golden bloom to that of the sorrel and the wild alfalfa1 until the hills almost outshine the bright light from the slopes and plains4 ,and through all this nods a tulip of most delicate lavender2 vetches1 lupins1 and all the members of the wild-pea family are pushing and winding their way everywhere in every shade of crimson1 purple1 and white2 along the ground crowfoot weaves a mantle of white1 through which1 amid a thousand comrades1 the orthocarpus rears its tufted head of pink4 ,among all these are mixed a thousand other flowers1 plenty enough as plenty would be accounted in other countries1 but here mere pin-points on a great map of colors4 ,as the stranger gazes upon this carpet that now covers hill and dale1 undulates over the table-lands1 and robes even the mountain with a brilliancy and breadth of color that strikes the eye from miles away1 he exhausts his vocabulary of superlatives1 and goes away imagining he has seen it all4 ,yet he has seen only the background of an embroidery more varied1 more curious and splendid1 than the carpet upon which it is wrought4 ,asters bright with centre of gold and lavender rays soon shine high above the iris1 and a new and larger tulip of deepest yellow nods where its lavender cousin is drooping its lately proud head4 ,new bell-flowers of white and blue and indigo rise above the first1 which served merely as ushers to the display1 and whole acres ablaze with the orange of the poppy are fast turning with the indigo of the larkspur4 ,where the ground was lately aglow with the marigold and the four-o'clock the tall penstemon now reaches out a hundred arms full-hung with trumpets of purple and pink4 ,here the silene rears high its head with fringed corolla of scarlet2 and there the wild gooseberry dazzles the eye with a perfect shower of tubular flowers of the same bright color4 ,the mimulus alone is almost enough to color the hills4 ,half a dozen varieties1 some with long1 narrow1 trumpet-shaped flowers1 others with broad flaring mouths2 some of them tall herbs1 and others large shrubs1 with varying shades of dark red1 light red1 orange1 cream-color1 and yellow1 spangle hill-side1 rock-pile1 and ravine4 ,among them the morning-glory twines with flowers of purest white1 new lupins climb over the old ones1 and the trailing vetch festoons rock and shrub and tree with long garlands of crimson1 purple1 and pink4 ,over the scarlet of the gooseberry or the gold of the high-bush mimulus along the hills1 the honeysuckle hangs its tubes of richest cream-color1 and the wild cucumber pours a shower of white over the green leaves of the sumach or sage4 ,snap-dragons of blue and white1 dandelions that you must look at three or four times to be certain what they are1 thistles that are soft and tender with flowers too pretty for the thistle family1 orchids that you may try in vain to classify1 and sages and mints of which you can barely recognize the genera1 with crucifer1 composit1 and what-not1 add to the glare and confusion4 ,meanwhile1 the chaparral1 which during the long dry season has robed the hills in sombre green1 begins to brighten with new life2 new leaves adorn the ragged red arms of the manzanita1 and among them blow thousands of little urn-shaped flowers of rose-color and white4 ,the bright green of one lilac is almost lost in a luxuriance of sky-blue blossoms1 and the white lilac looks at a distance as if drifted over with snow4 ,the cercocarpus almost rivals the lilac in its display of white and blue1 and the dark1 forbidding adenostoma now showers forth dense panicles of little white flowers4 ,here1 too1 a new mimulus pours floods of yellow light1 and high above them all the yucca rears its great plume of purple and white4 ,thus marches on for weeks the floral procession1 new turns bringing new banners into view1 or casting on old ones a brighter light1 but ever showing a riotous profusion of splendor until member after member drops gradually out of the ranks1 and only a band of stragglers is left marching away into the summer4 ,but myriads of ferns1 twenty-one varieties of which are quite common1 and of a fineness and delicacy rarely seen elsewhere1 still stand green in the shade of the rocks and trees along the hills1 and many a flower lingers in the timber or caons long after its friends on the open hills or plains have faded away4 ,in the caons and timber are also many flowers that are not found in the open ground1 and as late as the middle of ,september1 only twenty miles from the sea1 and at an elevation of but fifteen hundred feet1 ,i have gathered bouquets that would attract immediate attention anywhere4 ,the whole land abounds with flowers both curious and lovely2 but those only have been mentioned which force themselves upon one's attention4 ,where the sheep have not ruined all beauty1 and the rains have been sufficient1 they take as full possession of the land as the daisy and wild carrot do of some ,eastern meadows4 ,there are thousands of others1 which it would be a hopeless task to enumerate1 which are even more numerous than most of the favorite wild flowers are in the ,east1 yet they are not abundant enough to give character to the country4 ,for instance1 there is a great larkspur1 six feet high1 with a score of branching arms1 all studded with spurred flowers of such brilliant red that it looks like a fountain of strontium fire2 but you will not see it every time you turn around4 ,a tall lily grows in the same way1 with a hundred golden flowers shining on its many arms1 but it must be sought in certain places4 ,so the tiger-lily and the columbine must be sought in the mountains1 the rose and sweetbrier on low ground1 the night-shades and the helianthus in the timbered caons and gulches4 ,delicacy and brilliancy characterize nearly all the ,california flowers1 and nearly all are so strange1 so different from the other members of their families1 that they would be an ornament to any greenhouse4 ,the alfileria1 for instance1 is the richest and strongest fodder in the world4 ,it is the main-stay of the stock-grower1 and when raked up after drying makes excellent hay2 yet it is a geranium1 delicate and pretty1 when not too rank4 ,but suddenly the full blaze of color is gone1 and the summer is at hand4 ,brown tints begin to creep over the plains2 the wild oats no longer ripple in silvery waves beneath the sun and wind2 and the foxtail1 that shone so brightly green along the hill-side1 takes on a golden hue4 ,the light lavender tint of the chorizanthe now spreads along the hills where the poppy so lately flamed1 and over the dead morning-glory the dodder weaves its orange floss4 ,a vast army of crucifer and composit soon overruns the land with bright yellow1 and numerous varieties of mint tinge it with blue or purple2 but the greater portion of the annual vegetation is dead or dying4 ,the distant peaks of granite now begin to glow at evening with a soft purple hue2 the light poured into the deep ravines towards sundown floods them with a crimson mist2 on the shady hill-sides the chaparral looks bluer1 and on the sunny hill-sides is a brighter green than before4 ,,comparative ,,temperature ,,around ,,the ,,world4 ,the following table1 published by the ,pasadena ,board of ,trade1 shows the comparative temperature of well-known places in various parts of the world1 arranged according to the difference between their average winter and average summer3 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,place4 ,winter4 ,spring4 ,summer4 ,autumn4 ,difference ,summer1 ,winter4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,funchal1 ,madeira #fb4hh #fd4ee #gj4hi #gj4ai #h4ja ,st4 ,michael1 ,azores #eg4hc #fa4ag #fh4cc #fb4cc #aj4ej ,,pasadena #ef4jj #fa4jg #fg4fa #fb4ca #aa4fa ,santa ,cruz1 ,canaries #fd4fe #fh4hg #gf4fh #gd4ag #ab4jc ,santa ,barbara #ed4bi #ei4de #fg4ga #fc4aa #ac4db ,nassau1 ,bahama ,islands #gj4fg #gg4fg #hf4jj #hj4cc #ae4cc ,san ,diego1 ,california #ed4ji #fj4ad #fi4fg #fd4fc #ae4eh ,cadiz1 ,spain #eb4ij #ei4ic #gj4dc #fe4ce #ag4ec ,lisbon1 ,portugal #ec4jj #fj4jj #ga4jj #fb4jj #ah4jj ,malta #eg4df #fb4gf #gh4bj #ga4jc #bj4gd ,algiers #ee4jj #ff4jj #gg4jj #fj4jj #bb4jj ,st ,augustine1 ,florida #eh4be #fh4fi #hj4cf #ga4ij #bb4aa ,rome1 ,italy #dh4ij #eg4fe #gb4af #fc4if #bc4bf ,sacramento1 ,california #dg4ib #ei4ag #ga4ai #fa4gb #bc4bg ,mentone #di4ej #fj4jj #gc4jj #ef4fj #bc4ej ,nice1 ,italy #dg4hh #ef4bc #gb4bf #fa4fc #bd4dd ,new ,orleans1 ,louisiana #ef4jj #fi4cg #ha4jh #fi4hj #be4jh ,cairo1 ,egypt #eh4eb #gc4eh #he4aj #ga4dh #bf4eh ,jacksonville1 ,florida #ee4jb #fh4hh #ha4ic #fb4ed #if4ia ,pau1 ,france #da4hf #ed4jf #gj4gb #eg4ci #bh4hf ,florence1 ,italy #dd4cj #ef4jj #gd4jj #fj4gj #bi4gj ,san ,antonio1 ,texas #eb4gd #gj4dh #hc4gc #ga4ef #cj4ii ,aiken1 ,south ,carolina #de4hb #fa4cb #gg4cf #fa4if #ca4ed ,fort ,yuma1 ,california #eg4if #gc4dj #ib4jg #ge4ff #cd4aa ,visalia1 ,california #de4ch #ei4dj #hj4gh #fj4cd #ce4dj ,santa ,f1 ,new ,mexico #cj4bh #ej4jf #gj4ej #ea4cd #dj4bb ,boston1 ,mass #bh4jh #de4fa #fh4fh #ea4jd #dj4fj ,new ,york1 ,n4 ,y4 #ca4ic #dh4bf #gb4fb #dh4ej #dj4fi ,albuquerque1 ,new ,mexico #cd4gh #ef4cf #gf4bg #ef4cc #da4dj ,denver1 ,colorado1 #bg4ff #df4cc #ga4ff #dg4af #dd4jj ,st4 ,paul1 ,minnesota #ae4ji #da4bi #fh4jc #dd4ih #eb4id ,minneapolis1 ,minnesota #ab4hg #dj4ab #fh4cd #de4cc #ee4dg ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,,california ,,and ,,italy4 ,the ,los ,angeles ,chamber of ,commerce1 in its pamphlet describing that city and county1 gives a letter from the ,signal ,service ,observer at ,sacramento1 comparing the temperature of places in ,california and ,italy4 ,he writes3 ,to prove to your many and intelligent readers the equability and uniformity ,of the climate of ,santa ,barbara1 ,san ,diego1 and ,los ,angeles1 as compared with ,mentone and ,san ,remo1 of the ,riviera of ,italy and of ,corfu1 ,i append the monthly temperature for each place4 ,please notice a much warmer temperature in winter at the ,california stations1 and also a much cooler summer temperature at the same places than at any of the foreign places1 except ,corfu4 ,the table speaks with more emphasis and certainty than ,i can1 and is as follows3 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,san ,santa ,los ,san ,month4 ,diego's ,barbara's ,angeles' ,mentone's ,remo's ,corfu's mean temperature4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,january #ec4g #ed4d #eb4h #dh4b #dg4b #ec4f ,february #ed4b #ee4f #ed4b #dh4e #ej4b #ea4h ,march #ee4f #ef4d #ef4j #eb4j #eb4j #ec4f ,april #eg4h #eh4h #eg4i #eg4b #eg4j #eh4c ,may #fa4a #fj4b #fa4j #fc4j #fb4i #ff4g ,june #fd4d #fb4f #fe4e #gj4j #fi4b #gb4c ,july #fg4c #fe4g #fh4c #ge4j #gd4c #fg4g ,august #fh4g #fg4j #fi4e #ge4j #gc4h #ha4c ,september #ff4f #fe4f #fg4e #fi4j #gj4f #gh4h ,october #fb4e #fb4a #fb4g #gd4d #fa4h #gj4h ,november #eh4b #eh4j #eh4h #ed4j #eh4c #fc4h ,december #ee4e #ee4c #ed4h #di4j #di4c #fh4d ,averages #fj4f #fj4b #fj4d #fj4d #fj4a #fe4f ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,the table on pages #baj and #baa1 ,extremes of ,heat and ,cold1 is published by the ,san ,diego ,land and ,farm ,company1 whose pamphlet says3 ,the ,united ,states records at ,san ,diego ,signal ,station show that in ten years there were but #abj days on which the mercury passed #hj4 ,of these #abj there were but #da on which it passed #he1 but #bb when it passed #ij1 but four over #ie1 and only one over #ajj2 to wit1 #aja1 the highest ever recorded here4 ,during all this time there was not a day on which the mercury did not fall to at least #gj during the night1 and there were but five days on which it did not fall even lower4 ,during the same ten years there were but six days on which the mercury fell below #ce4 ,this low temperature comes only in extremely dry weather in winter1 and lasts but a few minutes1 happening just before sunrise4 ,on two of these six days it fell to #cb at daylight1 the lowest point ever registered here4 ,the lowest mid-day temperature is #eb1 occurring only four times in these ten years4 ,from #fe to #gj is the average temperature of noonday throughout the greater part of the year4 ,,five ,,years ,,in ,,santa ,,barbara4 ,transcriber's note3 ,table has been turned from original to fit1 along with using abbreviations for the months and a legend4 ,the following table1 from the self-registering thermometer in the observatory of ,mr4 ,hugh ,d4 ,vail1 shows the mean temperature of each month in the years #ahhe to #ahhi at ,santa ,barbara1 and also the mean temperature of the warmest and coldest days in each month3 ,a ,mean ,temperature of each ,month4 ,b ,mean ,temperature of ,warmest ,day4 ,c ,mean ,temperature of ,coldest ,day4 ,d ,monthly ,rainfall1 ,inches4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- ,,month4 ,jan4 ,feb4 ,mar4 ,apr4 ,may ,june ,july ,aug4 ,sep4 ,oct4 ,nov4 ,dec4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- #ahhe4 ,a#ec4b #ef4g #ei4a #fj4i #fj4j #fb4j #ff4a #fh4j #ff4i #fc4jeh4i #eg4b ,b#eg4j #fe4e #fb1e #gj4e #fd4f #fh4j #gc4j #gh4h #gh4h #gb4jfd4h #fe4g ,c#di4e #ea1e #ef4j #ed4j #ed4j #eh4e #fb4b #fb4e #gb4j #eh4eej4j #eb4j ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- #ahhf4 ,a#ee4j #ei4f #ec4a #ee4g #fj4e #fb4j #ff4c #fh4b #fc4h #eh4cef4c #ee4h ,b#gc4e #gj4j #ei4e #fa4e #fe4e #fg4e #gb4j #gb4j #fh4c #fb4eff4b #fe4h ,c#dg4e #de4j #df4b #ej4e #ed4j #eh4e #fc4c #fc4b #eg4j #ea4gdi4h #di4e ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- #ahhg4 ,a#ed4fg #ej4d #eg4j #eh4dcfj4j #fc4g #fd4f #fd4h #ff4j #fe4jeh4i #eb4h ,b#fc4e #fa4a #fd4h #ff4h #fg4j #gi4j #ga4c #fi4g #gj4e #gd4jfe4c #ei4f ,c#di4j #de4c #eb4j #ea4j #ec4c #ei4j #fj4i #fb4j #fa4e #ei4cdg4e #di4j ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- #ahhh4 ,a#di4j #ec4h #ec4j #ei4i #eg4f #fd4d #fg4j #ff4c #fg4i #fc4eei #h 4#ef4e ,b#eh4g #eg4e #fj4e #ge4j #fd4e #fi4j #gb4j #gb4j #gf4b #gf4ifa4c #fc4j ,c#da4j #di4j #df4j #ec4j #ea4g #ei4e #fc4j #fc4e #fc4b #ei4jed4e #eb4j ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- #ahhi4 ,a#ec4j #ee4d #eh4j #ei4i #fj4j #fb4e #fd4b #fg4c #fh4h #fc4iei4f #ed4d ,b#eh4j #fe4j #fg4j #gb4g #fh4e #fe4g #hd4j #gg4j #gh4j #gj4cfe4g #fj4g ,c#dh4h #de4e #eb4e #eb4g #ed4e #eh4e #fa4j #fc4j #fb4j #fj4jed4e #ej4j ,d #j4bi #a4bi #g4ca #j4di #j4gf #j4ac 444 444 444 #h4fi #c4ba #aj4fd ,observations made at ,san ,diego ,city1 compiled from ,report ,of the ,chief ,signal ,officer of the ,u4 ,s4 ,army4 ,transcriber's note3 ,table has been modified from original to fit1 using abbreviations for the months and a legend4 ,column headers3 a ,average number of cloudy days for each month and year4 b ,average number of fair days for each month and year4 c ,average number of clear days for each month and year4 d ,average cloudiness1 scale #j to #aj1 for each month and year4 e ,average hourly velocity of wind for each month and year4 f ,average precipitation for each month and year4 g ,minimum temperature for each month and year4 h ,maximum temperature for each month and year4 i ,mean temperature for each month and year4 j ,mean normal barometer of ,san ,diego for each month and year for four years4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- ,,observations ,,extending ,,over ,a ,,period ,,of ,,twelve ,,years4 ,,month4 a b c d e f g h i j ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ ,january #h4e #aa4b #aa4c #d4a #e4a #a4he #cb4j #gh4j #ec4f #cj4jbg ,february #g4i #aa4c #i4j #d4d #f4j #b4jg #ce4j #hb4f #ed4c #cj4jeh ,march #i4f4 #ab4g #h4g #d4h #f4d #j4ig #ch4j #ii4j #ee4g #cj4jjd ,april #g4i #aa4i #aj4b #d4d #f4f #j4fh #ci4j #hg4j #eg4g #bi4ife ,may #aj4i #ab4a #h4j #e4b #f4g #j4bf #de4d #id4j #fa4j #bi4hic ,june #h4a4 #ae4b #f4g #e4j #f4c #j4je #ea4j #id4j #fd4d #bi4hfd ,july #f4g #af4a #h4b #d4g #f4c #j4jb #ed4j #hf4j #fg4a #bi4hdi ,august #d4g #af4i #i4d #d4a #f4j #j4bc #ed4j #hf4j #fh4g #bi4hid ,september #d4d #ac4i #aa4g #c4g #e4i #j4je #di4e #aja4j #ff4h #bi4hdj ,october #e4f #ab4f #ab4h #c4i #e4d #j4di #dd4j #ib4j #fb4i #bi4ije ,november #f4e #aj4j #ac4e #c4f #e4a #j4gj #ch4j #he4j #eh4c #bi4iia ,december #f4f #aa4b #ac4b #c4g #e4a #b4ab #cb4j #hb4j #ee4f #cj4jji ,mean annual #hg4d #aee4a #abb4g #d4c #e4i4 #i4di #db4f #hh4h #fj4e #bi4idb ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- ,,extremes ,,of ,,heat ,,and ,,cold4 ,the following table1 taken from the ,report of the ,chief ,signal ,officer1 shows the highest and lowest temperatures recorded since the opening of stations of the ,signal ,service at the points named1 for the number of years indicated4 ,an asterisk 7997 denotes below zero3 a ,maximum b ,minimum c ,number of ,years of ,observation4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,jan4 ,feb4 ,march4 ,april4 ,may4 ,june4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,locality of ,station c a b a b a b a b a b a b ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,charleston1 ,s4 ,c4 #ab #hj #bc #gh #bf #he #bh #hg #cb #id #dg #id #fe ,denver1 ,col4 #ab #fg99bi #gb99bb #ha99aj #hc #d #ib #bg #hi #ej ,jacksonville1 ,fla4 #ab #hj #bd #hc #cb #hh #ca #ia #cg #ii #dhaja #fb ,l',s ,,ang',,les1 ,,cal4 #f #hb #cj #hf #bh #ii #cd #id #ciajj #djajd #dg ,new ,orleans1 ,la4 #ac #gh #bj #hj #cc #hd #cg #hf #ch #ib #ef #ig #fe ,newport1 ,r4 ,i4 #b #dh #b #ej #d #fj #d #fb #bf #ge #cc #ia #da ,new ,york #ac #fd 99#f #fi 99#d #gb 99#c #ha #bj #id #cd #ie #dg ,pensacola1 ,fla4 #d #gd #bi #gh #ca #gi #cf #hg #cd #ic #dg #ig #fd ,,san ,,diego1 ,,cal4 #ab #gh #cb #hc #ce #ii #ch #hg #ci #id #de #id #ea ,san ,francisco1 ,cal4 #ab #fi #cf #ga #ce #gg #ci #ha #dj #hf #de #ie #dh ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,,extremes ,,of ,,heat ,,and ,,cold4--,continued4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,july4 ,aug4 ,sept4 ,oct4 ,nov4 ,dec4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,locality of ,station c a b a b a b a b a b a b ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,charleston1 ,s4 ,c4 #ab #id #fi #if #fi #id #fd #hi #di #ha #cc #gh #bb ,denver1 ,col4 #ab #ia #ei #ic #fj #ic #ea #hd #ch #gc #bc #fi #a ,jacksonville1 ,fla4 #abajd #fhajj #ff #ih #ef #ib #dj #hd #cj #ha #ai ,l',s ,,ang',,les1 ,,cal4 #f #ih #eaajj #ejajd #dd #ig #dc #hf #cd #hh #cj ,new ,orleans1 ,la4 #ac #if #gj #ig #fi #ib #eh #hi #dj #hb #cb #gh #bj ,newport1 ,r4 ,i4 #i #hg #ef #he #de #gg #ci #ge #bi #fb #ag #ef 99#i ,new ,york #ac #ii #eg #if #ecajj #cf #hc #ca #gd #g #ff 99#f ,pensacola1 ,fla4 #d #ig #fd #ic #fi #ic #eg #hi #de #ha #bh #gf #ag ,,san ,,diego1 ,,cal4 #ab #hf #ed #hf #edaja #ej #ib #dd #he #ch #hb #cb ,san ,francisco1 ,cal4 #ab #hc #di #hi #ej #ib #ej #hd #de #gh #da #fh #cd ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,,statements ,,of ,,small ,,crops4 ,the following statements of crops on small pieces of ground1 mostly in ,los ,angeles ,county1 in #ahij1 were furnished to the ,chamber of ,commerce in ,los ,angeles1 and are entirely trustworthy4 ,nearly all of them bear date ,august #ast4 ,this is a fair sample from all ,southern ,california3 ,,peaches4 ,ernest ,dewey1 ,pomona--,golden ,cling ,peaches1 #aj acres1 #g years old1 produced #dg tons green2 sold dried for #dhjj2 cost of production1 #bdc4gj2 net profit1 #deef4cj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,amount of rain1 #bh inches1 winter of #ahhi-ij4 ,h4 ,h4 ,rose1 ,santa ,anita ,township 7#c_/d of a mile from ,lamanda ,park7--#b-f_/g acres2 produced #dg1edc pounds2 sold for #hfc4df2 cost of production1 #ajd2 net profit1 #gei4df4 ,soil1 light sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,produced in #ahhi #ab1jjj pounds1 which sold at #a4gj per #ajj pounds4 ,e4 ,r4 ,thompson1 ,azusa 7#b miles south of depot7--#b-a_/f acres1 #bcc trees1 produced #eg1fee pounds2 sold for #hfd4hb-a_/b2 cost of production1 #adj2 net profit1 #gbd4hb-a_/b4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated three times in summer1 #a inch to #g acres4 ,trees #g years old1 not more than two-thirds grown4 ,p4 ,o',connor1 ,downey--#bj trees produced #djjj pounds2 sold for #fj2 cost of production #e2 net profit1 #ee4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,crop sold on the ground4 ,h4 ,hood1 ,downey ,city 7#a_/d of a mile from depot7--#a_/d of an acre produced #g-a_/b tons2 sold for #aej2 cost of production1 #aj2 net profit1 #adj4 ,damp sandy soil2 not irrigated4 ,f4 ,d4 ,smith 7between ,azusa and ,glendora1 #a-a_/d miles from depot7--#a acre produced #ad1cfa pounds2 sold for #beb4ea2 cost of production1 #bj2 net profit1 #bcb4ea4 ,dark sandy loam2 irrigated once4 ,trees #e and #f years old4 ,p4 ,o4 ,johnson1 ,ranchito--#ag trees1 #aj years old1 produced #d-c_/d tons2 sold #d-a_/d tons for #abj2 cost of production1 #aj2 net profit1 #aaj2 very little irrigation4 ,sales were #a_/b;c4 per pound under market rate4 ,,prunes4 ,e4 ,p4 ,naylor 7#c miles from ,pomona7--#ae acres produced #adi tons2 sold for #gdej2 cost of production1 #ebg2 net profit1 #fibc4 ,soil1 loam1 with some sand2 irrigated1 #a inch per #aj acres4 ,w4 ,h4 ,baker1 ,downey 7#a_/b a mile from depot7--#a-a_/b acres produced #ab1ebi pounds2 sold for #eea4ij2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #eja4ij4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,howe ,bros4 7#b miles from ,lordsburg7--#hjj trees1 which had received no care for #b years1 produced #bh tons2 sold for #adjj2 cost of production1 #bjj2 net profit1 #abjj4 ,soil1 gravelly loam1 red2 partially irrigated4 ,messrs4 ,howe state that they came into possession of this place in ,march1 #ahij4 ,the weeds were as high as the trees and the ground was very hard4 ,only about #ejj of the trees had a fair crop on them4 ,w4 ,a4 ,spalding1 ,azusa--#a_/c of an acre produced #aj1djd pounds2 sold for #aef4jf2 cost of production1 #aj2 net profit1 #adf4jf4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,e4 ,a4 ,hubbard1 ,pomona 7#a-a_/b miles from depot7--#d-a_/b acres produced #bd tons2 sold green for #ajhj2 cost of production1 #bhj2 net profit1 #hjj4 ,soil1 dark sandy loam2 irrigated4 ,this entire ranch of #i acres was bought in #ahhd for #aege4 ,f4 ,m4 ,smith 7#a-a_/d miles east of ,azusa7--#c_/e of an acre produced #ag1agd pounds2 sold for #cae4hd2 cost of production1 #be2 net profit1 #bij4 ,soil1 deep1 dark sandy loam2 irrigated once in the spring4 ,trees #e years old4 ,george ,rhorer 7#a_/b of a mile east of ,north ,pomona7--#ac acres produced #hh tons2 sold for #ddjj on the trees2 cost of production1 #bfj2 net profit1 #dadj4 ,soil1 gravelly loam2 irrigated1 #a inch to #h acres4 ,trees planted #e years ago last spring4 ,j4 ,s4 ,flory 7between the ,big and ,little ,tejunga rivers7--#a-a_/c acres or #ace trees #bj feet apart each way2 #ajj of the trees #d years old1 the balance of the trees #e years old2 produced #ebcj pounds dried2 sold for #ebc2 cost of production1 #ah2 net profit1 #eje4 ,soil1 light loam1 with some sand2 not irrigated4 ,w4 ,caruthers 7#b miles north of ,downey7--#c_/d of an acre produced #e tons2 sold for #bbb2 cost of production1 #g4ej2 net profit1 #bae4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,trees #d years old4 ,james ,loney1 ,pomona--#b acres2 product sold for #aaej2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #aajj4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,i4 ,w4 ,lord1 ,eswena--#e acres produced #dj tons2 sold for #bjjj2 cost of production1 #cjj2 net profit1 #agjj4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,m4 ,b4 ,moulton1 ,pomona--#c acres2 sold for #ahgc2 cost of production1 #bae2 net profit1 #afeh4 ,soil1 deep sandy loam4 ,trees #i years old4 ,ernest ,dewey1 ,pomona--#f acres produced #ch tons green2 dried1 at #aj cents a pound1 #cadg2 cost of production1 #djc2 profit1 #bgcd4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated one inch to #aj acres4 ,sixty per cent4 increase over former year4 ,c4 ,s4 ,ambrose1 ,pomona--#ab acres produced #gg tons2 #ej per ton gross1 #chej2 labor of one hand one year1 #aej2 profit1 #cgjj4 ,soil1 gravelly2 very little irrigation4 ,prunes sold on trees4 ,,oranges4 ,joachim ,f4 ,jarchow1 ,san ,gabriel--#b-a_/b acres2 #aj-year trees2 product sold for #afej2 cost of production #ajj1 including cultivation of #g-a_/b acres1 not bearing2 net profit1 #aeej4 ,f4 ,d4 ,smith1 ,azusa--#f-a_/b acres produced #fjj boxes2 sold for #abjj2 cost of production1 #acj2 net profit1 #ajgj4 ,soil1 dark sandy loam2 irrigated three times4 ,trees #d years old4 ,george ,lightfoot1 ,south ,pasadena--#e-a_/b acres produced #gjj boxes2 sold for #aajj2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #ajej4 ,soil1 rich1 sandy loam2 irrigated once a year4 ,h4 ,hood1 ,downey--#a_/b of an acre produced #bge boxes2 sold for #bge2 cost of production1 #be2 net profit1 #bej4 ,soil1 damp1 sandy2 not irrigated4 ,w4 ,g4 ,earle1 ,azusa--#a acre produced #baj boxes2 sold for #bfb2 cost of production1 #ae2 net profit1 #bdg4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated four times4 ,nathaniel ,hayden1 ,vernon--#d acres2 #ihf boxes at #a4bj per box2 sales1 #aahb2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #aacb4 ,loam2 irrigated4 ,other products on the #d acres4 ,h4 ,o4 ,fosdick1 ,santa ,ana--#a acre2 #f years old2 #cej boxes2 sales1 #gjj2 cost of production and packing1 #ej2 net profit1 #fej4 ,loam2 irrigated4 ,j4 ,h4 ,isbell1 ,rivera--#a acre1 #hb trees2 #af years old2 sales1 #fjj2 cost of production1 #be2 profit1 #ege4 ,irrigated4 #a4aj per box for early delivery1 #a4fe for later4 ,,grapes4 ,william ,bernhard1 ,monte ,vista--#aj acres produced #be tons2 sold for #gej2 cost of production1 #gj2 net profit1 #fhj4 ,soil1 heavy loam2 not irrigated4 ,vines #e years old4 ,dillon1 ,kennealy ,mc,clure1 ,burbank 7#a mile from ,roscoe ,station7--#bjj acres produced #ij1jjj gallons of wine2 cost of production1 #ejjj2 net profit1 about #cj1jjj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated2 vineyard in very healthy condition4 ,p4 ,o',connor 7#b-a_/b miles south of ,downey7--#ab acres produced #ajj tons2 sold for #aejj2 cost of production1 #cfj2 net profit1 #aadj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,vines planted in #ahhd1 when the land would not sell for #ajj per acre4 ,j4 ,k4 ,banks 7#a-c_/d miles from ,downey7--#dj acres produced #bej tons2 sold for #cijj2 cost of production1 #acjj2 net profit1 #bfjj4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,,berries4 ,w4 ,y4 ,earle 7#b-a_/b miles from ,azusa7--,strawberries1 #b-a_/b acres produced #ae1jjj boxes2 sold for #gej2 cost of production1 #bbe2 net profit1 #ebe4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated4 ,shipped #cjjj boxes to ,ogden1 ,utah1 and #fjjj boxes to ,albuquerque and ,el ,paso4 ,benjamin ,norris1 ,pomona--,blackberries1 #a_/d of an acre produced #bejj pounds2 sold for #ajj2 cost of production1 #e2 net profit1 #ie4 ,soil1 light sandy2 irrigated4 ,s4 ,h4 ,eye1 ,covina--,raspberries1 #e_/i of an acre produced #ahjj pounds2 sold for #aie2 cost of production1 #he2 net profit1 #aaj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated4 ,j4 ,o4 ,houser1 ,covina--,blackberries1 #a_/d of an acre produced #fdh pounds2 sold for #ga4bh2 cost of production1 #ah2 net profit1 #ec4bh4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated4 ,first year's crop4 ,,apricots4 ,t4 ,d4 ,leslie 7#a mile from ,pomona7--#a acre produced #aj tons2 sold for #bej2 cost of production1 #fj2 net profit1 #aij4 ,soil1 loose1 gravelly2 irrigated2 #a inch to #aj acres4 ,first crop4 ,george ,lightfoot1 ,south ,pasadena--#b acres produced #aa tons2 sold for #bfj2 cost of production1 #bj2 net profit1 #bdj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,t4 ,d4 ,smith1 ,azusa--#a acre produced #ac1eee pounds2 sold for #afi4dd2 cost of production1 #be2 net profit1 #add4dd4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated once4 ,trees #e years old4 ,w4 ,y4 ,earle 7#b-a_/b miles from ,azusa7--#f acres produced #f tons2 sold for #cej2 cost of production1 #be2 net profit1 #cbe4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,trees #c years old4 ,w4 ,a4 ,spalding1 ,azusa--#cce trees produced #ae1dgh pounds2 sold for #fdg4dc2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #eig4dc4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,mrs4 ,winkler1 ,pomona--#c_/d of an acre1 #ij trees2 product sold for #cha2 cost of production1 #bh4dj2 net profit1 #ceb4fj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,only help1 small boys and girls4 ,,miscellaneous ,,fruits4 ,e4 ,a4 ,bonine1 ,lamanda ,park--,apricots1 nectarines1 prunes1 peaches1 and lemons1 #cj acres produced #afj tons2 sold for #hjjj2 cost of production1 #aejj2 net profit1 #fejj4 ,no irrigation4 ,j4 ,p4 ,fleming 7#a-a_/b miles from ,rivera7--,walnuts1 #dj acres produced #ab-a_/b tons2 sold for #babj2 cost of production1 #abj2 net profit1 #bjjj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,george ,lightfoot1 ,south ,pasadena--,lemons1 #b acres produced #ejj boxes2 sold for #gbj2 cost of production1 #bj2 net profit1 #gjj4 ,soil1 rich sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,trees #aj years old4 ,w4 ,a4 ,spalding1 ,azusa--,nectarines1 #if trees produced #ai1cgh pounds2 sold for #bdb4bb2 cost of production1 #ce2 net profit1 #bjg4bb4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,f4 ,d4 ,smith1 ,azusa--,nectarines1 #a-b_/e acres produced #cf1cej pounds2 sold for #cfc4ej2 cost of production1 #ce2 net profit1 #cah4ej4 ,soil1 deep dark sandy loam2 irrigated once in spring4 ,trees #e and #f years old4 ,c4 ,d4 ,ambrose 7#d miles north of ,pomona7--,pears1 #c acres produced #cc1dbb pounds2 sold green for #ajib4ff2 cost of production1 #eg2 net profit1 #ajce4ff4 ,soil1 foot-hill loam2 partly irrigated4 ,n4 ,hayden--,statement of amount of fruit taken from #d acres for one season at ,vernon ,district3 #ihe boxes oranges1 #ae boxes lemons1 #hjjj pounds apricots1 #bbjj pounds peaches1 #bjj pounds loquats1 #bejj pounds nectarines1 #djjj pounds apples1 #ajjj pounds plums1 #ajjj pounds prunes1 #ajjj pounds figs1 #aej pounds walnuts1 #ejj pounds pears4 ,proceeds1 #afej4 ,a family of five were supplied with all the fruit they wanted besides the above4 ,,potatoes4 ,o4 ,bullis1 ,compton--#bh-c_/d acres produced #cjjj sacks2 sold for #cjjj2 cost of production1 #ejj2 net profit1 #bejj4 ,soil1 peat2 not irrigated4 ,this land has been in potatoes #c years1 and will be sown to cabbages1 thus producing two crops this year4 ,p4 ,f4 ,cogswell1 ,el ,monte--#be acres produced #aej tons2 sold for #cdjj2 cost of production1 #dej2 net profit1 #biej4 ,soil1 sediment2 not irrigated4 ,m4 ,metcalf1 ,el ,monte--#h acres produced #fd tons2 sold for #ijj2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #hej4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,jacob ,vernon 7#a-a_/b miles from ,covina7--#c acres produced #djj sacks2 sold for #dje4hh2 cost of production1 #e2 net profit1 #djj4hh4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 irrigated one acre4 ,two-thirds of crop was volunteer4 ,h4 ,hood1 ,downey--,sweet potatoes1 #a acre produced #cjj sacks2 sold for #cjj2 cost of production1 #cj2 net profit1 #bgj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,c4 ,c4 ,stub1 ,savannah 7#a mile from depot7--#aj acres produced #ajjj sacks2 sold for #bjjj2 cost of production1 #ajj2 net profit1 #aijj4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,a grain crop was raised on the same land this year4 ,,onions4 ,f4 ,a4 ,atwater and ,c4 ,p4 ,eldridge1 ,clearwater--#a acre produced #baa sacks2 sold for #baa2 cost of production1 #ajj2 net profit1 #aaa4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 no irrigation4 ,at present prices the onions would have brought #fcc4 ,charles ,lauber1 ,downey--#a acre produced #aac sacks2 sold for #fdb2 cost of production1 #ej2 net profit1 #eib4 ,no attention was paid to the cultivation of this crop4 ,soil1 sandy loam2 not irrigated4 ,at present prices the same onions would have brought #hjc4 ,,miscellaneous ,,vegetables4 ,eugene ,lassene1 ,university--,pumpkins1 #e acres produced #aej loads2 sold for #d per load2 cost of production1 #c per acre2 net profit1 #ehe4 ,soil1 sandy loam4 ,a crop of barley was raised from the same land this year4 ,p4 ,k4 ,wood1 ,clearwater--,pea-nuts1 #c acres produced #ejjj pounds2 sold for #bej2 cost of production1 #dj2 net profit1 #baj4 ,soil1 light sandy2 not irrigated4 ,planted too deep1 and got about one-third crop4 ,oliver ,e4 ,roberts 7,terrace ,farm1 ,cahuenga ,valley7--#c acres tomatoes2 sold product for #dfa4ge4 ,soil1 foot-hill2 not irrigated2 second crop1 watermelons4 ,one-half acre green peppers2 sold product for #ed4cj4 #a-a_/b acres of green peas2 sold product for #bbj4 #ag fig-trees2 first crop sold for #dj4 ,total product of #ed acres1 #ggf4je4 ,jacob ,miller1 ,cahuenga--,green peas1 #aj acres2 #dc1fae pounds2 sales1 #cjeb2 cost of production and marketing1 #ejj2 profit1 #beeb4 ,soil1 foot-hill2 not irrigated4 ,second crop1 melons4 ,w4 ,w4 ,bliss1 ,duarte--,honey1 #bae stands2 #ae1jjj pounds2 sales1 #ghe4 ,mountain district4 ,bees worth #a to #c per stand4 ,james ,stewart1 ,downey--,figs1 #c acres2 #bj tons1 at #ej1 #ajjj4 ,not irrigated2 #bf inches rain2 #a acre of trees #af years old1 #b acres #e years4 ,figs sold on trees4 ,the mineral wealth of ,southern ,california is not yet appreciated4 ,among the rare minerals which promise much is a very large deposit of tin in the ,temescal ,caon1 below ,south ,riverside4 ,it is in the hands of an ,english company4 ,it is estimated that there are #bc square miles rich in tin ore1 and it is said that the average yield of tin is #bj-a_/d per cent4 ,,index4 ,acamo1 #afe1 #agj4 ,adenostoma1 #bje4 ,africa1 #ah4 ,aiken1 ,south ,carolina1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,ailantus1 #acd4 ,alaska1 #cd4 ,albuquerque1 ,new ,mexico1 #afe4 ---- temperature of1 #bjg4 ,alfalfa1 #bc1 #ih1 #aja1 #bjd4 ,alfileria1 #bjc1 #bjf4 ,algiers1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,alhambra1 #abd4 ,almond1 #ah1 #ai1 #aja4 ,alpine pass1 #a4 ,amalfi1 #cj4 ,ambrose1 ,c4 ,d41 #bae4 ,ambrose1 ,ernest1 #bac4 ,anacapa1 #b4 ,anaheim1 #acd4 ,antelope1 #aad1 #ahh4 ,apples1 #ai1 #if1 #ig1 #abg4 ---- prices and profits1 #bae4 ---- ,san ,diego1 #ig4 ,apricots1 #ah1 #ai1 #dc1 #ib4 ---- prices and profits1 #bad1 #bae4 ,arcadian ,station1 #abf4 ,arizona1 #e1 #adi1 #afd1 #agc1 #agg4 ---- ,cattle ,company1 #ahf4 ---- desert1 #gi4 ,arrow-head ,hot ,springs1 #aag4 ,artist ,point1 #aed4 ,atlantic1 #e1 #ah1 #dg1 #afe1 #aih4 ,atwater1 ,f4 ,a41 #baf4 ,aubrey sandstones1 #aie4 ,australian lady-bug1 #abi4 ---- navels1 #abj4 ,azusa1 #baa-bae4 ,baker1 ,w4 ,h41 #bab4 ,baldwin plantation1 #abg4 ,banana1 #ai1 #acd4 ,bancroft1 ,h4 ,h41 #ef4 ,banks1 ,j4 ,k41 #bad4 ,banning1 #if4 ,barley1 #h1 #ad1 #be1 #ach4 ---- prices and profits1 #baf4 ,beans1 #ach4 ,bear ,valley ,dam1 #aag1 #aah4 ,bees1 #bag4 ,bell-flower1 #bjd4 ,bernhard1 ,william1 #bad4 ,berries1 #ada4 ,big ,tejunga ,river1 #bab4 ,big ,trees 7,mariposa71 #aej1 #aef-afa4 ,birch1 #acd4 ,blackberries--prices and profits1 #bad4 ,bliss1 ,w4 ,w41 #bag4 ,bohemia ,tplitz waters1 #afc4 ,bonine1 ,e4 ,a41 #bae4 ,boston1 ,massachusetts1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,bozenta 7,count71 #acd4 ,brandy1 #acf4 ,breezes1 #gj1 #abc1 #ahd1 #bjc4 7,see ,winds47 ,bright ,angel ,amphitheatre1 #aie4 ,buenaventura1 #ach4 ,bullis1 ,o41 #bae ,burbank1 #bad4 ,cactus1 #fi1 #afe4 ,cadiz1 ,spain4 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,cahuenga ,valley1 #baf4 ,cairo1 ,egypt1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,capri1 #cj1 #hj4 ,carlisle school1 #afh4 ,carlsbad1 #afc4 ,carrot 7wild71 #bjf4 ,caruthers1 ,w41 #bac4 ,cataract ,caon1 #ahb4 ,cedars1 #ahe1 #ahf4 ,cereals1 #ab4 7,see ,grains47 ,chalcedony ,park1 #ahc4 ,chamber of ,commerce1 ,los ,angeles1 #baa4 ---- ---- ,san ,diego1 #adc4 ,chaparral1 #ha1 #bjb1 #bje1 #bjf4 ,charleston1 ,south ,carolina1 ,temperature of1 #baj1 #baa4 ,chautauqua1 ,the1 #gf4 ,chemisal1 #bjb4 ,cherries1 #dc4 ,chief ,signal ,officer1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a41 ,report of1 #baj4 ,china trade1 #adb4 ,chorizanthe1 #bjf4 ,chula ,vista1 #add4 ,clearwater1 #baf4 ,climate1 #d-f1 #i1 #bi1 #dc1 #de1 #dh1 #acj1 #adj1 #adb1 #adf4 ---- adapted to health1 #bi1 #cg1 #ch1 #de1 #df4 ---- adapted to recreation1 #gj4 ---- compared to ,european1 #e2 to ,italian1 #ah2 to ,mediterranean1 #ah2 to ,tangierian1 #df4 ---- discussed and described1 #aj1 #ch1 #dd1 #de4 ---- affected by ocean and deserts1 #d1 #h1 #bi1 #de4 ---- effect on character1 #hh4 ---- effect on disease1 #ej4 ---- effect on fruits1 #aj4 ---- effect on horses1 #ee4 ---- effect on longevity1 #ef1 #ei1 #fb4 ---- effect on seasons1 #aj1 #dc1 #fe1 #ff4 ---- ,hufeland on1 #eb4 ---- insular1 #gf4 ---- in various altitudes1 #df4 ---- ,johnson 7,dr47 on1 #bja4 ---- of ,coronado ,beach1 #dg1 #ha1 #hg4 ---- of ,new ,mexico1 #afd4 ---- of ,pasadena1 #acj4 ---- of ,san ,diego1 #di4 ---- of winter1 #dc1 #dh4 ---- ,van ,dyke on1 #f1 #gh4 ,climatic regions1 #d4 ,clover1 #bjd4 ,cogswell1 ,p4 ,f41 #baf4 ,colorado desert1 #b-e1 #f1 #cc1 #cd1 #df4 ---- ,grand ,caon1 #adi4 7,see ,grand ,caon47 ---- ,plateau1 #ahb4 ---- ---- description of1 #agg4 ---- ,river1 #h1 #aig1 #aii4 ---- ---- course described1 #agg4 ,columbine1 #bjf4 ,como1 #a4 ,compton1 #bae4 ,concord coach1 #ahd4 ,cooper1 ,ellwood1 #abe4 ,corfu1 ,temperature of1 #bjh4 ,corn1 #i1 #ab1 #ad1 #be1 #ih4 ,coronado ,beach1 #bi1 #cc1 #dg1 #hg1 #bjb4 ---- ---- climate1 #dg1 #ha1 #hg4 ---- ---- ,description of1 #hj-hg4 ---- ,islands1 #cj4 ---- ,vasques de1 #cb1 #afe4 ,covina1 #bad1 #baf4 ,cremation among ,indians1 #fj4 ,crossthwaite1 ,philip1 ,longevity of1 #fa4 ,crowfoot1 #bjd4 ,crucifers1 #bjd4 ,cucumbers1 #bje4 ,cuyamaca 7mountain7 #f1 #ah1 #cc1 #cg4 ----7reservoir71 #add4 ,cypress 7,monterey71 #di1 #hb1 #acj4 ---- ,point 7tree71 #afa4 ---- ---- description of1 #afb4 ,cypriote ware1 #afi4 ,cyprus1 #hb1 #acd4 ,daisy1 #bjf4 ,dandelion1 #bje4 ,date 7palms71 #ai1 #db1 #di1 #he1 #acd4 ,denver1 ,colorado1 ,temperature of1 #bjg1 #baj1 #baa4 ,deserts1 #b-g1 #hd1 #gi4 ---- affecting climate1 #d1 #h1 #bi1 #de4 ---- describing beauty of1 #age4 ,dewey1 ,ernest1 #baa1 #bac4 ,dew-falls1 #abc4 ,dillon1 ,kennealy ,mc,clure1 #bad4 ,district of the ,grand ,caon--area described1 #agg4 ,downey1 #baa-bad1 #baf1 #bag4 ---- ,city1 #baa4 ,duarte1 #bag4 ,dutton1 ,captain ,c4 ,e41 #aha1 #aid1 #aih4 ,earle1 ,w4 ,g41 #bac4 ,earle1 ,w4 ,y41 #bad1 #bae4 ,east ,san ,gabriel ,hotel1 #abg4 ,eaton ,caon1 #acj4 ,egypt1 #agh4 ,el ,cajon1 #cg1 #ef1 #gi1 #aaa1 #add4 ,el ,capitan1 #aed4 ,eldridge1 ,c4 ,p41 #baf4 ,elm1 #acd4 ,el ,monte1 #baf4 ,english ,walnut1 #ah1 #ai1 #cd1 #dh1 #aja1 #abi1 #acd4 ,escondido1 #adj1 #ada4 ,eswena1 #bac4 ,eucalyptus1 #bc1 #dh1 #aab1 #abc1 #acd4 ,eye1 ,s4 ,h41 #bad4 ,fan-palm1 #di1 #acd4 ,fern 7,australian71 #abc1 #bje4 ,fig1 #ah1 #ai1 #cd1 #aja1 #ada1 #add1 #adg4 ---- cultivation discussed1 #cd4 ---- prices and profits1 #bae-bag4 ,flagstaff1 #ahb1 #ahc1 #aii4 ,fleming1 ,j4 ,p41 #bae4 ,florence ,hotel1 #hj4 ,florence1 ,italy1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,flory1 ,j4 ,s41 #bab4 ,fogs1 #d1 #h1 #ch1 #dg1 #abc4 ,fort ,yuma1 ,california1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,fosdick1 ,h4 ,o41 #bac4 ,foxtail1 #bjf4 ,franciscan ,fathers1 #db4 ,franciscan missions1 #bd4 ,fresno1 #aae1 #abh4 ,frosts1 #aj1 #ai1 #abc4 ,fruits1 #i1 #ab1 #ac1 #ae1 #ah1 #bj1 #cg1 #dc1 #df1 #dg1 #if1 #ada1 #add1 #aih4 ,fruits compared to ,european1 #ah4 ---- cultivation and speculation discussed1 #bj1 #ic1 #ajg1 #adj4 ---- great region for1 #ig4 ---- grouped1 #ah1 #ai1 #ib1 #id-if1 #aja1 #aae1 #abg1 #baa-bag4 ---- lands adapted to1 #cg1 #df1 #if4 ---- orchards1 #fg1 #afe4 ---- rapid growth of1 #aae4 ---- ,riverside method for1 #ajd4 ---- winter1 #dh4 ,fumigation1 ,cost of1 #abd1 #abi4 ,funchal1 ,madeira1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,gardens1 #df1 #fg1 #adg1 #afe4 ,geraniums1 #di4 ,glendora1 #bab4 ,golden ,gate1 #db4 ,gooseberry1 #bje4 ,government land1 #ic4 ,grain1 #ab1 #ad1 #ae1 #ai1 #bc1 #be1 #adj4 ,grand ,caon1 #adi1 #agh1 #aha4 ---- ---- area of district of1 #agg4 ---- ---- description of1 #aha1 #ahb1 #aij-bjj4 ---- ---- journey to the1 #ahb-aij4 ,grapes1 #ae1 #ah1 #ai1 #ib1 #ic1 #ih1 #aja4 ---- diseases of1 #abh4 ---- ,old ,mission1 #abh4 ---- prices and profits of1 #if4 ---- raisin4 7,see ,raisins47 ,grape-vines1 #gi1 #ia1 #abc4 ---- ---- on small farms1 #ajg4 ---- ---- prices and profits of1 #if4 ---- ---- ,santa ,anita1 #abg4 ,grayback 7mountain71 #cd1 #df4 ,great ,wash fault1 #agh1 #ahb4 ,grevillea robusta1 #abc4 ,guava1 #ai1 #acd4 ,gums1 #ach4 ,hance 7guide71 #aih1 #aii4 ,harvard ,observatory1 #acj4 ,hawaii ,islands1 #e4 ,hayden1 ,nathaniel1 #bac1 #bae4 ,helianthus1 #bjf4 ,heliotrope1 #aj1 #da1 #di4 ,hesperia1 #if4 ,hindoo ,amphitheatre1 #aie4 ,holbrook1 #ahc4 ,honey--prices and profits of1 #bag4 ,honeysuckle1 #bje4 ,hood1 ,h41 #baa1 #bac1 #baf4 ,horses1 #ee1 #gj4 ,hotel del ,coronado1 #bi1 #hg4 ---- del ,monte ,park1 #afa4 ---- ,raymond1 #gi1 #acj1 #acc4 ,hot ,springs 7,las ,vegas71 #afc1 #afd4 ,houser1 ,j4 ,o41 #bad4 ,houses1 ,suggestions on1 #fh4 ,howe ,bros41 #bab4 ,hubbard1 ,e4 ,a41 #bab4 ,hufeland1 on climate and health1 #eb4 ,humidity1 #ch1 #dc4 ,huntington1 ,dr41 #ej4 ,hurricane ,ledge or ,fault1 #ahb4 ,icerya purchasi1 #abi4 ,indiana settlement1 #id4 ,indians1 #ee1 #ahg1 #ahh ---- affected by climate1 #ee4 ---- converted by missionaries1 #bd4 ---- longevity of1 #ei4 ---- ,mojave1 #b1 #afi4 ---- ,navajos1 #agj1 #ahc4 ---- ,oualapai1 #ahh4 ---- ,pueblo1 #afe4 ---- ---- at ,acamo1 #afe4 ---- ---- at ,isleta1 #afe4 ---- ---- at ,laguna1 #afe-agc4 ,ingo ,county1 #cd4 ,inspiration ,point1 #aej1 #aed4 ,iris1 #bjd4 ,irrigation1 #ig1 #aag1 #adg1 #afe4 ---- at ,pasadena1 #acj4 ---- at ,pomona1 #ae1 #id1 #abd1 #baa1 #bae4 ---- at ,redlands1 #ajb1 #ajd1 #aah4 ---- at ,san ,diego1 #add4 ---- at ,santa ,ana1 #acd4 ---- by companies1 #id4 ---- by natural means1 #aa1 #ad1 #cg4 ---- cost of1 #ih4 ---- for apricots1 berries1 grapes1 onions1 oranges1 peaches1 potatoes1 prunes1 vegetables1 #baa-bag4 ---- for orchards1 #abj4 ---- for wheat1 #ajj4 ---- in relation to fruits and crops1 #ai1 #ii1 #ajj1 #aja4 ---- necessity of1 #ae1 #ai1 #hh4 ---- results of1 discussed1 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onions1 oranges1 peaches1 potatoes1 prunes1 vegetables1 #baa-bag4 ---- adapted to fruits1 #ig1 #ada4 ---- arable1 #ic1 #adj1 #adb1 #ade4 ---- capabilities of1 #ag1 #ia-ie1 #aad4 ---- converted from deserts1 #id4 ---- crops adapted to1 #ajh4 ---- elements constituting value of1 #ie4 ---- experiments of settlers on1 #aaa4 ---- for farms and gardens1 #ajg4 ---- ,government1 #ic4 ---- of the ,sun1 #adg1 #bjb4 ---- profits and prices of1 #bj1 #bc1 #ie-ih1 #aag4 ---- raisin1 #aad4 ---- speculations in1 #bd1 #ajg1 #adc4 ,la ,playa1 #cc4 ,larkspur1 #bje1 #bjf4 ,las ,flores1 #adj4 ,lassene1 ,eugene1 #baf4 ,las ,vegas ,hot ,springs1 #afc1 #afd4 ,lauber1 ,charles1 #baf4 ,lee's ,ferry1 #aii4 ,lemons1 #a1 #ah1 #ai1 #gi1 #ic1 #ajg1 #abi1 #acg1 #add4 ,leslie1 ,t4 ,d41 #bad4 ,lightfoot1 ,george1 #bac1 #bad4 ,lilac1 #bje4 ,lilies1 #bjd1 #bjf4 ,limes1 #ah4 ,lisbon1 ,portugal1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,little ,colorado ,river1 #agg1 #aha1 #ahb4 ,little ,tejunga ,river1 #bab4 ,live-oaks1 #di1 #fi1 #gb1 #gi1 #abg1 #acd1 #adj1 #afa4 ,locust1 #acd4 ,lombardy1 #a4 ,loney1 ,james1 #bac4 ,longevity at ,el ,cajon1 #ef4 ---- at ,san ,diego1 #ei1 #fj4 ---- climatic influence on1 #ef1 #ei1 #fb4 ---- ,dr4 ,bancroft on1 #ef4 ---- ,dr4 ,palmer on1 #ei1 #fj4 ---- ,dr4 ,remondino on1 #eb4 ---- ,dr4 ,winder on1 #ef4 ---- ,father ,ubach on1 #ei1 #fb4 ---- ,hufeland on1 #eb4 ,longevity1 ,philip ,crossthwaite1 ,story of1 #fa4 ,loquats1 #ba4 ---- prices and profits of1 #bae4 ,lord1 ,i4 ,w41 #bac4 ,lordsburg1 #bab4 ,los ,angeles1 #ab1 #ae1 #af1 #bf1 #df1 #ga1 #gf1 #gi1 #id1 #ie1 #ig1 #abd1 #abh1 #abi1 #acc-ace4 ---- ---- assessment roll and birth rate of1 #acf4 ---- ---- climate of1 #ab1 #ae1 #bf1 #gf1 #gi1 #ie1 #abd1 #abi1 #acc4 ---- ---- ,county1 #baa4 ---- ---- description of1 #ace1 #acf4 ---- ---- report of ,chamber of ,commerce of1 #bjg1 #baa4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa1 #ii4 ---- ---- temperature of1 #dd1 #bjg1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- ---- wines1 #acf4 ,los ,coronados1 #b4 ,lupins1 #bje4 ,maggiore1 #a4 ,magnolia1 #da1 #dh1 #abc4 ,maguey1 #fi4 ,malta1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,manitoba1 #e4 ,manzanita1 #bje4 ,maple1 #acd4 ,marble ,caon1 #agg4 ,marguerites1 #hb4 ,marienbad1 #afc4 ,marigold1 #bje4 ,mariposa 7big trees71 #aej1 #aef-afa4 ,martinique1 #dh4 ,mediterranean--climate of the1 #cg1 #df1 #hj4 ---- fruits and products of the1 #ah4 ---- ,our1 #ah1 #df4 ,mentone1 #f4 ---- temperature of1 #bjg1 #bjh4 ,merced ,river1 #aej1 #aee4 ,meserve plantation1 #abd4 ,metcalf1 ,m41 #baf4 ,methusaleh of trees1 #aeh4 ,mexican ,gulf1 #ah4 ---- ranch house1 #fg4 ,mexico1 #b1 #aa1 #cj1 #cc1 #dj1 #dg4 ---- small-pox from1 #fd4 ,miller1 ,jacob1 #baf4 ,mimulus1 #bje4 ,minerals1 #adb4 ,minneapolis1 ,minnesota1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,mint1 #bje1 #bjf4 ,mirror ,lake1 #aed4 ,mission ,caon1 #ge4 ---- of ,san ,diego1 #fj4 ---- of ,san ,tomas1 #fj4 ,mississippi ,valley1 #ch4 ,modjeska1 ,madame1 #acd4 ,moisture in relation to health1 #bja4 ,mojave ,desert1 #b1 #g4 ---- ,indians1 #g1 #afi4 ,montecito 7,santa ,barbara71 #abc4 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,remondino1 ,dr41 #dj1 #eb1 #ef1 #ei1 #fj4 ,remondino1 ,dr41 on health1 #fb4 ---- on horses1 #ee1 #fa4 ---- on longevity1 #dj1 #fa4 ,rhorer1 ,george1 #bab4 ,rio ,grande del ,norte1 #afe4 ,rio ,puerco1 #afe4 ,rivera1 #bac1 #bae4 ,riverside1 #ae1 #ie1 #abd4 ---- centre of orange growth1 #aai4 ---- description of1 #abc-abg4 ---- growth in resources1 #abj4 ---- irrigation at1 #ajb-ajd4 ---- price of land1 #ie-ih4 ---- return on fruits1 #ig1 #ih1 #abd4 ,riviera1 ,italy1 ,temperature of1 #g1 #de1 #bjh4 ,roberts1 ,oliver ,e41 #baf4 ,rock-rose1 #bjd4 ,rome1 ,italy1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,roscoe ,station1 #bad4 ,rose1 ,h4 ,h41 #baa4 ,roses1 #da1 #di1 #ff1 #ach1 #bjf4 ,royal palms1 #he4 ,sacramento1 ,california1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,sages1 #bjb1 #bje4 ,sahara1 #f4 ,san ,antonio1 ,texas1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,san ,bernardino1 #d1 #ae-ag1 #cc1 #cd1 #aah4 ---- ---- description of1 #aaf1 #aag4 ---- ---- land1 prices of1 #if1 #aag4 ---- ---- ,mountain1 #d1 #g4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa4 ---- ---- temperature at1 #f1 #cc1 #dd1 #df1 #baj1 #baa4 ,san ,diego1 #b1 #i1 #ae1 #bd1 #bf1 #cd1 #db1 #dc1 #dg1 #fb1 #gb1 #gi1 #hj1 #id4 ---- ---- as a health resort1 #ej4 ---- ---- ,chamber of ,commerce1 #adc4 ---- ---- climate of1 #di1 #ej4 ---- ---- commercial possibilities of1 #adb4 ---- ---- converted lands1 #id4 ---- ---- description of1 #bi-cd1 #gi-ha1 #adb-ade4 ---- ---- fruits1 #cg1 #ig4 ---- ---- ,land and ,farm ,company1 #bjh4 ---- ---- longevity at1 #fj4 ---- ---- markets1 #dc4 ---- ---- mission1 #bd1 #fj4 ---- ---- rainfall at1 #dg1 #bjb4 ---- ---- recreations at1 #da1 #ga4 ---- ---- temperature of1 #cj1 #dd1 #di1 #ej1 #bjg1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- ---- ,bay1 #b1 #c4 ---- ---- ,county1 #d1 #f1 #af1 #cd4 ---- ---- ---- description of1 #adj-ade4 ---- ---- ,river1 #d1 #f1 #aa1 #af1 #cd4 ,san ,francisco1 #b1 #db1 #adb4 ---- ---- ,mountain1 #ahb1 #ahe1 #aid1 #bjj4 ---- ---- ,river1 #ahe4 ---- ---- temperature at1 #baj1 #baa4 ,san ,gabriel1 #d1 #ae1 #bf1 #gb1 #id1 #bac4 ,san ,gabriel1 description of1 #abd-abh4 ---- ---- mission1 #bf4 ---- ---- ,mountain1 #d1 #e4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa4 ---- ---- ,valley1 #gb1 #id4 ,san ,jacinto ,range1 #d1 #ag1 #cc1 #df1 #aah4 ---- ---- rain at1 #dh4 ,san ,joaquin1 #g1 #cg1 #aad4 ,san ,juan1 #agg4 ---- ---- ,capristrano1 #gi4 ---- ---- ,san ,jos1 #abd4 ,san ,luis ,obispo1 #af4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa4 ,san ,mateo ,caon1 #aah4 ,san ,miguel1 #cc4 ,san ,nicolas1 #b4 ,san ,pedro1 #c1 #ace4 ,san ,remo1 ,temperature of1 #bjh4 ,santa ,ana1 #b1 #ac1 #gb1 #id1 #ii1 #aah4 ---- ---- description of1 #abd4 ---- ---- ,mountain1 #acd4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa1 #gi1 #acd4 ---- ---- ,township1 #ae1 #abg1 #baa4 ---- ---- ,valley1 #b1 #gb1 #bac4 ,santa ,barbara1 #b1 #c1 #i1 #cg1 #fg4 ---- ---- at ,montecito1 #abc4 ---- ---- ,channel1 #b1 #c4 ---- ---- ,county1 #af4 ---- ---- description of1 #gb1 #acg1 #ach4 ---- ---- fruits1 #cg1 #abi4 ---- ---- ,island1 #b1 #c4 ---- ---- ,mountain1 #ag4 ---- ---- olives1 #cg1 #abe4 ---- ---- temperature of1 #bi1 #dd1 #bjg4 ,santa ,catalina1 #b1 #acd4 ,santa ,clara1 #dc1 #ach4 ---- ---- ,river1 #aa4 ,santa ,clemente1 #b4 ,santa ,cruz1 #b1 #dg1 #aeg4 ---- ---- ,canaries1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,santa ,f line1 #aag1 #aai1 #afc1 #afe1 #ahb4 ---- ---- ,new ,mexico1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,santa ,margarita ,river1 #aa4 ,santa ,miguel1 #b4 ,santa ,monica1 #c4 ---- ---- description of1 #gf4 ---- ---- irrigation at1 #acd4 ,santa ,rosa1 #b1 #adj4 ,santa ,ynes1 #d1 #gb4 ,santiago1 #df4 ---- ---- ,caon1 #acd4 ,san ,tomas mission1 #fj4 ,savannah1 #baf4 ,sea-lions1 #cj1 #afa4 ,seasons1 #f1 #aj1 #cg1 #ch1 #dc1 #fe1 #ff1 #ha4 ---- description of the1 #fe1 #ff4 ---- ,van ,dyke on the1 #bjb-bjf4 ,sequoia semper virens1 #aeg4 ,sequoias gigantea1 #aeg1 #aeh4 ,serra1 ,father ,junipero1 #bd4 ,serrano1 ,don ,antonio1 #fa1 #fb4 ,sheavwitz ,plateau1 #agh4 ,sheep1 #ab1 #bjf4 ,shiva's ,temple1 #aie4 ,shooting-star1 #bjc4 ,sicily1 #ah1 #fi4 ,sierra ,madre1 #d1 #ae1 #cg1 #db1 #df1 #ga1 #id1 #aad1 #aah4 ---- ---- ,villa1 #acj4 ,sierra ,nevada1 #b1 #c4 ,sierras1 #aec1 #afa4 ,signal ,service ,observer1 #bjg4 ,silene1 #bjd4 ,smith1 ,f4 ,d41 #bab-bae4 ---- ,f4 ,m41 #bab4 ---- ,t4 ,d41 #bad4 ,smithsonian ,institution1 #ei4 ,snap-dragon1 #bje4 ,sorrel1 #bjd4 ,sorrento1 #acb4 ,southern ,california1 #b-d1 #af4 ---- ---- climate of1 #bi1 #ch1 #de1 #ee1 #ef1 #ei1 #fb1 #acj4 ---- ---- commerce of1 #ah4 ---- ---- compared to ,italy1 #df4 ---- ---- counties of1 #af4 ---- ---- history of1 #bd1 #be4 ---- ---- ,our ,italy1 #ah1 #df4 ---- ---- pride of nations1 the1 #bf4 ---- ---- rainy seasons in4 7,see ,rain47 ---- ---- rapid growth of fruits in1 #aae4 ---- ---- recreations of1 #fi-ga4 ---- ---- temperature of1 #dc1 #acc4 7,see ,temperature47 ---- ,italy1 #fi1 #adg4 ---- ,pacific ,railroad1 #adi4 ---- ,utah1 #agg4 ,south ,pasadena1 #bac1 #bad4 ---- ,riverside1 #bag4 ,spain1 #adi4 ,spalding1 ,w4 ,a41 #bab1 #bae4 ,spanish adventurers1 #bd1 #cj4 ,spruce-pine1 #ahb4 ,st4 ,augustine1 ,florida1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,st4 ,michael1 ,azores1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,st4 ,paul1 ,minnesota1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,state ,commission1 #aef4 ,stewart1 ,james1 #bag4 ,stone1 #adb4 ,strawberries1 #aj4 ---- prices and profits of1 #bad4 ,stub1 ,c4 ,c41 #baf4 ,sugar-pine1 #aej1 #aeg4 ,sumach1 #bje4 ,sunset ,mountain1 #ahe4 ,sweetbrier1 #bjf4 ,sweetwater ,dam1 #add4 ,switzerland1 #adi4 ,sycamore1 #gi1 #acd4 ,table ,mountain1 #cc4 ,tangier1 #de4 ,temperature1 #d1 #e1 #bi1 #cg1 #ch4 ,temperature compared to ,european1 #de4 ---- discussed1 #dc1 #de4 ---- of ,coronado ,beach1 #hg4 ---- of ,los ,angeles1 #dd1 #bjg1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- of ,monterey1 #gb4 ---- of ,pasadena1 #ac1 #bjg4 ---- of ,pomona1 #dd4 ---- of ,san ,bernardino1 #f1 #cc1 #dd1 #df1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- of ,san ,diego1 #cj1 #dd1 #di1 #ej1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- of ,santa ,barbara1 #bi1 #dd1 #bjg4 ---- relation of1 to health1 #bja4 ---- statistics1 #dd1 #de1 #gb4 ---- statistics compared1 #bjg1 #bjh1 #baj1 #baa4 ---- ,van ,dyke on1 #ej4 ,temecula ,caon1 #adj4 ,temescal ,caon1 #bag4 ,the ,rockies1 #aj4 ,thistle1 #bje4 ,thompson1 ,e4 ,r41 #baa4 ,tia ,juana ,river1 #aa1 #cj1 #ade4 ,tiger-lily1 #bjf4 ,tin1 #bag4 ,tomatoes--prices and profits of1 #baf4 ,tplitz waters1 #afc4 ,toroweap ,valley1 #ahb4 ,trees1 #dh1 #fi1 #acj1 #acd1 #ach1 #adg1 #aef1 #aih4 ---- description of1 #aej1 #aef-afa4 ---- region of ,mariposa big1 #aef4 ,tulip1 #bjd4 ,tustin ,city1 #acd4 ,ubach1 ,father ,a4 ,d41 #ei1 #fj1 #fb4 ,uinkaret ,plateau1 #agh4 ,umbrella-tree1 #fi1 #ahd4 ,university ,heights1 #hj1 #ha4 ,utah1 #agg1 #agh1 #aii4 ,vail1 ,hugh ,d41 #bji4 ,van ,dyke1 ,theodore ,s41 #d1 #adj1 #bjb4 ---- on climate1 #f1 #gh4 ---- on floral procession and seasons1 #bjb-bjf4 ---- on growth in population1 #ade4 ---- on irrigation1 #ajb1 #ajc4 ---- on temperature1 #ej4 ,van ,dyke1 ,theodore ,s41 on winds1 #h1 #bjc4 ,vedolia cardinalis 7,australian lady-bug71 #abi4 ,vegetables1 #aab1 #baf4 ,ventura1 #af1 #acg4 ,vermilion ,cliffs1 #agh4 ,vernon1 #bac1 #bae4 ---- ,jacob1 #baf4 ,vesuvius1 #cc4 ,vetch1 #bjc4 ,vines1 #bj1 #bc-be1 #fg1 #gi1 #ia1 #ajg1 #abc1 #abh1 #add1 #adg4 ,violets1 #bjc4 ,visalia1 ,california1 ,temperature of1 #bjg4 ,vishnu's ,temple1 #aif4 ,vulcan's ,throne1 #aif4 ,wages1 ,boom1 #aji4 ,walnut ,creek ,caon1 #ahc4 ,walnuts1 #ad1 #ai1 #aae4 ---- prices and profits of1 #bae4 ,water1 #ahf4 ---- how measured1 #ih4 ---- price of1 #ig1 #ih4 ,watermelons--prices and profits of1 #baf4 ,wawona1 #aej4 ,wells1 #ahf4 ,wheat1 #b1 #e1 #ad1 #be1 #ach4 ---- affected by irrigation1 #ajj4 ,white ,cliffs1 #agh4 ,wild ,oats1 #bjb4 ,williams1 #ahb4 ,willow1 #acd4 ,winder1 ,dr4 ,w4 ,a41 on longevity1 #ef4 ,winds1 #d1 #f1 #h1 #bi1 #cj1 #ch1 #dg1 #gj1 #gh1 #abc1 #ahd1 #bjc4 ---- relation of1 to health1 #bja4 ---- ,van ,dyke on1 #h1 #bjc4 ,wine1 #bj1 #ib1 #ic1 #ajg1 #acf1 #acg4 ,winkler1 ,mrs41 #bae4 ,wood1 ,p4 ,k41 #baf4 ,yosemite1 #aej1 #aec1 #aed1 #afa1 #aig4 ---- description of1 #adi-aef4 ,yucca1 #bje4 ,zuis1 #afe4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,by ,,charles ,,dudley ,,warner4 ,as ,we ,were ,saying4 ,with ,portrait1 and ,illustrated by ,h4 ,w4 ,,macvickar and others4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 ,ornamental1 #a #jj4 ,mr4 ,warner is both wise and witty1 and in his charming style he follows a model of his own4--,boston ,traveller4 ,mr4 ,warner has such a fine fancy1 such a clever way of looking at the things that interest everybody1 such a genial humor1 that one never tires of him or the children of his pen4--,cincinnati ,commercial-,gazette4 ,our ,italy4 ,an ,exposition of the ,climate and ,resources of ,southern ,california4 ,illustrated4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,ornamental1 #b #ej4 ,in this book are a little history1 a little prophecy1 a few fascinating statistics1 many interesting facts1 much practical suggestion1 and abundant humor and charm4--,evangelist1 ,n4 ,y4 ,it is a book of solid value1 such as a clear-headed business man will appreciate1 yet it is such a book as only an accomplished man of letters could write4 ,we commend it to all who wish further knowledge of a region too little known by ,americans4--,examiner1 ,n4 ,y4 ,a ,little ,journey in the ,world4 ,a ,novel4 ,post #hvo1 ,half ,leather1 ,uncut ,edges and ,gilt ,top1 #a #ej4 ,a powerful picture of modern life in which unscrupulously acquired capital is the chief agent4444 ,mr4 ,warner has depicted this phase of society with real power1 and there are passages in his work which are a nearer approach to ,thackeray than we have had from any ,american author4--,boston ,post4 ,the vigor and vividness of the tale and its sustained interest are not its only or its chief merits4 ,it is a study of ,american life of to-day1 possessed with shrewd insight and fidelity4--,,george ,,william ,,curtis4 ,studies in the ,south and ,west4 ,with ,comments on ,canada4 ,post #hvo1 ,half ,leather1 ,uncut ,edges and ,gilt ,top1 #a #ge4 ,a witty1 instructive book1 as brilliant in its pictures as it is warm in its kindness2 and we feel sure that it is with a patriotic impulse that we say that we shall be glad to learn that the number of its readers bears some proportion to its merits and its power for good4--,n4 ,y4 ,commercial ,advertiser4 ,a book most charming--a book that no ,american can fail to enjoy1 appreciate1 and highly prize4--,boston ,traveller4 ,their ,pilgrimage4 ,richly ,illustrated by ,c4 ,s4 ,,reinhart4 ,post #hvo1 ,half ,leather1 ,uncut ,edges and ,gilt ,top1 #b #jj4 ,mr4 ,warner's pen-pictures of the characters typical of each resort1 of the manner of life followed at each1 of the humor and absurdities peculiar to ,saratoga1 or ,newport1 or ,bar ,harbor1 as the case may be1 are as good-natured as they are clever4 ,the satire1 when there is any1 is of the mildest1 and the general tone is that of one glad to look on the brightest side of the cheerful1 pleasure-seeking world4--,christian ,union1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,published ,,by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,new ,,york4 ,any of the above works sent by mail1 postage prepaid1 to any part of the ,united ,states1 ,canada1 or ,mexico1 on receipt of the price4 ,,nordhoff',s ,,california4 ,peninsular ,california4 ,some ,account of the ,climate1 ,soil1 ,productions1 and ,present ,condition chiefly of the ,northern ,half of ,lower ,california4 ,by ,,charles ,,nordhoff4 ,maps and ,illustrations4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj2 ,paper1 #ge cents4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff has known the region he describes for many years1 and is a skilful writer as well as careful observer4--,hartford ,courant4 ,the author frankly writes as an advocate1 but1 so far as our knowledge goes1 with scrupulous fairness4--,n4 ,y4 ,evening ,post4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff supplies copious appendices1 giving tables of temperature1 rainfall and other meteorological facts of much interest4 ,his book is interesting1 valuable1 and timely4--,epoch1 ,n4 ,y4 ,the reading of this volume has been of special personal pleasure to us1 and we doubt not that others will enjoy it too4--,michigan ,christian ,advocate4 ,the book is one that those who read merely for information will find interesting and instructive1 while there are doubtless many by whom its economical representations will be accepted in the way that ,mr4 ,nordhoff evidently hopes that they will be4--,philadelphia ,telegraph4 ,this opportune little volume will do much to enlighten us as to its real character1 an enlightenment of a most practical kind4--,geographical ,news4 ,mr4 ,charles ,nordhoff has added considerably to our knowledge of a country singularly neglected4--,n4 ,y4 ,sun4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff's book is as good as a trip to the place4--,philadelphia ,american4 ,his book is historical1 descriptive1 and practical1 containing information about land-titles and other matters such as settlers and investors will find most useful4--,cincinnati ,times4 ,there is hardly a question that one contemplating purchase or residence there would wish to ask that is not answered in this book1 while to all it furnishes interesting and no doubt authentic information concerning a remarkable region1 of which not much has been generally known heretofore4--,christian ,intelligencer1 ,n4 ,y4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff has personally explored and studied the region and become an owner of property in it1 and he may be regarded as fully qualified to speak of what it is and promises to be4 ,much interesting and valuable information is contained in ,mr4 ,nordhoff's work4--,brooklyn ,union4 ,those who remember what a good prophet ,mr4 ,nordhoff proved himself to be by his book on ,california1 issued some sixteen years ago1 will read this volume with especial attention4--,louisville ,courier-,journal4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff's book is not a traveller's sketch1 but an exhaustive study of the country1 its rulers1 its products1 and its inhabitants4--,boston ,commercial ,bulletin4 ,a valuable contribution to the fund of general information concerning the ,golden ,state4--,washington ,post4 ,the information which he gives respecting the resources of the country and its progress in late years is not only interesting1 but also of practical value to tourists1 as well as for those who contemplate settlement4--,lutheran ,observer1 ,philadelphia4 ,we commend the work to all persons who would like to have information about this beautiful and fruitful land4--,christian ,observer1 ,louisville4 ,mr4 ,nordhoff has for many years been familiar with the country1 and the information he furnishes concerning its climate and the advantages it offers to settlers is unquestionably trustworthy4--,saturday ,evening ,gazette1 ,boston4 ,,published ,,by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,new ,,york4 ,the above work will be sent by mail1 postage prepaid1 to any part of the ,united ,states1 ,canada1 or ,mexico1 on receipt of price4 ,,valuable ,,works ,,of ,,travel ,,and ,,adventure4 ,the ,capitals of ,spanish ,america4 ,the ,capitals of ,spanish ,america4 ,by ,,william ,,eleroy ,,curtis1 late ,commissioner from the ,united ,states to the ,governments of ,central and ,south ,america4 ,with a ,colored ,map and #ceh ,illustrations4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,extra1 #c #ej4 ,charnay's ,ancient ,cities of the ,new ,world4 ,the ,ancient ,cities of the ,new ,world3 being ,voyages and ,explorations in ,mexico and ,central ,america1 from #aheg to #ahhb4 ,by ,d,,sir ,,charnay4 ,translated from the ,french by ,j4 ,,gonino and ,,helen ,s4 ,,conant4 ,introduction by ,,allen ,,thorndike ,,rice4 #bji ,illustrations and a ,map4 ,royal #hvo1 ,ornamental ,cloth1 ,uncut ,edges1 ,gilt ,top1 #f #jj4 ,hearn's ,west ,indies4 ,two ,years in the ,french ,west ,indies4 ,by ,,lafcadio ,,hearn4 ,copiously ,illustrated4 ,post #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,ornamental1 #b #jj4 ,warner's ,south and ,west4 ,studies in the ,south and ,west1 with ,comments on ,canada4 ,by ,,charles ,,dudley ,,warner1 ,author of ,their ,pilgrimage1 c4 ,post #hvo1 ,half ,leather1 #a #ge4 ,cesnola's ,cyprus4 ,cyprus3 ,its ,ancient ,cities1 ,tombs1 and ,temples4 ,a ,narrative of ,researches and ,excavations during ,ten ,years' ,residence in that ,island4 ,by ,general ,louis ,,palma ,,di ,,cesnola1 ,member of the ,royal ,academy of ,sciences1 ,turin2 ,hon4 ,member of the ,royal ,society of ,literature1 ,london1 c4 ,with ,maps and ,illustrations4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,gilt ,tops and ,uncut ,edges1 #g #ej2 ,half ,calf1 #aj #jj4 ,bishop's ,mexico1 ,california1 and ,arizona4 ,being a ,new and ,revised ,edition of ,old ,mexico and ,her ,lost ,provinces4 ,by ,,william ,,henry ,,bishop4 ,with numerous ,illustrations4 #abmo1 ,cloth1 #b #jj4 ,wallace's ,malay ,archipelago4 ,the ,malay ,archipelago3 the ,land of the ,orang-,utan and the ,bird of ,paradise4 ,a ,narrative of ,travel1 #ahed-fb4 ,with ,studies of ,man and ,nature4 ,by ,,alfred ,,russel ,,wallace4 ,with ,maps and numerous ,illustrations4 ,new ,edition4 ,crown #hvo1 ,cloth1 #b #ej4 ,wallace's ,geographical ,distribution of ,animals4 ,the ,geographical ,distribution of ,animals4 ,with a ,study of the ,relations of ,living and ,extinct ,faunas1 as elucidating the ,past ,changes of the ,earth's ,surface4 ,by ,,alfred ,,russel ,,wallace4 ,with ,colored ,maps and numerous ,illustrations by ,zwecker4 #b vols41 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj4 ,stanley's ,congo1 and the ,founding of its ,free ,state4 ,a ,story of ,work and ,exploration4 ,by ,,henry ,m4 ,,stanley4 ,dedicated by ,special ,permission to ,h4 ,m4 the ,king of the ,belgians4 ,in #b vols41 #hvo1 ,cloth1 with over ,one ,hundred full-page and ,smaller ,illustrations1 two large ,maps1 and several smaller ones4 ,cloth1 #g #ej2 ,sheep1 #i #ej2 ,half ,morocco1 #ab #jj4 ,stanley's ,through the ,dark ,continent4 ,through the ,dark ,continent2 or1 ,the ,sources of the ,nile1 ,around the ,great ,lakes of ,equatorial ,africa1 and ,down the ,livingstone ,river to the ,atlantic ,ocean4 ,by ,,henry ,m4 ,,stanley4 ,with #adi ,illustrations and #aj ,maps4 #b vols41 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #g #ej2 ,sheep1 #i #ej1 ,half ,morocco1 #ab #jj4 ,stanley's ,coomassie and ,magdala4 ,coomassie and ,magdala3 a ,story of ,two ,british ,campaigns in ,africa4 ,by ,,henry ,m4 ,,stanley4 ,with ,maps and ,illustrations4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #c #ej4 ,livingstone's ,last ,journals4 ,the ,last ,journals of ,david ,livingstone1 in ,central ,africa1 from #ahfe to his ,death4 ,continued by a ,narrative of his ,last ,moments and ,sufferings1 obtained from his ,faithful ,servants ,chuma and ,susi4 ,by ,,horace ,,waller1 ,f4,r4,g4,s4 ,with ,maps and ,illustrations4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #e #jj2 ,sheep1 #f #jj2 ,half ,calf1 #g #be4 ,livingstone's ,expedition to the ,zambesi4 ,narrative of an ,expedition to the ,zambesi and its ,tributaries2 and of the ,discovery of the ,lakes ,shirwa and ,nyassa4 #aheh-ahfd4 ,by ,,david and ,,charles ,,livingstone4 ,with ,maps and ,illustrations4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #e #jj2 ,sheep1 #e #ej4 ,long's ,central ,africa4 ,central ,africa3 ,naked ,truths of ,naked ,people4 ,an ,account of ,expeditions to the ,lake ,victoria ,nyanza and the ,makraka ,niam-,niam1 ,west of the ,bahr-,el-,abiad 7,white ,nile74 ,by ,col4 ,c4 ,,chaill ,,long of the ,egyptian ,staff4 ,illustrated from ,col4 ,long's own ,sketches4 ,with ,map4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #b #ej4 ,du ,chaillu's ,equatorial ,africa4 ,adventures in the ,great ,forest of ,equatorial ,africa1 and the ,country of the ,dwarfs4 ,by ,,paul ,b4 ,,du ,,chaillu4 ,abridged and ,popular ,edition4 ,with ,map and ,illustrations4 ,post #hvo1 ,cloth1 #a #ge4 ,du ,chaillu's ,ashango-,land4 ,a ,journey to ,ashango-,land1 and ,further ,penetration into ,equatorial ,africa4 ,by ,,paul ,b4 ,,du ,,chaillu4 ,illustrated4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #e #jj2 ,sheep1 #e #ej2 ,half ,calf1 #g #be4 ,du ,chaillu's ,land of the ,midnight ,sun4 ,the ,land of the ,midnight ,sun4 ,summer and ,winter ,journeys through ,sweden1 ,norway1 ,lapland1 and ,northern ,finland4 ,by ,,paul ,b4 ,,du ,,chaillu4 ,with ,map and #bce ,illustrations4 ,in ,two ,volumes4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #g #ej2 ,half ,calf1 #ab #jj4 ,thomson's ,voyage of the ,challenger4 ,the ,voyage of the ,challenger4 ,the ,atlantic3 ,an ,account of the ,general ,results of the ,voyage during the ,year #ahgc and the ,early ,part of the ,year #ahgf4 ,by ,sir ,c4 ,,wyville ,,thomson1 ,f4,r4,s4 ,with a ,portrait of the ,author1 many ,colored ,maps1 ,and ,illustrations4 #b vols41 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #ab #jj4 ,thomson's ,southern ,palestine and ,jerusalem4 ,the ,land and the ,book3 ,southern ,palestine and ,jerusalem4 ,by ,,william ,m4 ,,thomson1 ,d4,d41 ,forty-five ,years a ,missionary in ,syria and ,palestine4 #adj ,illustrations and ,maps4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 #f #jj2 ,sheep1 #g #jj2 ,half ,morocco1 #h #ej2 ,full ,morocco1 ,gilt ,edges1 #aj #jj4 ,thomson's ,central ,palestine and ,phoenicia4 ,the ,land and the ,book3 ,central ,palestine and ,phoenicia4 ,by ,,william ,m4 ,,thomson1 ,d4,d4 #ahj ,illustrations and ,maps4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 #f #jj2 ,sheep1 #g #jj2 ,half ,morocco1 #h #ej2 ,full ,morocco1 ,gilt ,edges1 #aj #jj4 ,thomson's ,lebanon1 ,damascus1 and ,beyond ,jordan4 ,the ,land and the ,book3 ,lebanon1 ,damascus1 and ,beyond ,jordan4 ,by ,,william ,m4 ,,thomson1 ,d4,d4 #adg ,illustrations and ,maps4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 #f #jj2 ,sheep1 #g #jj2 ,half ,morocco1 #h #ej2 ,full ,morocco1 ,gilt ,edges1 #aj #jj4 ,the ,land and the ,book4 7,popular ,edition47 ,comprising the above three volumes4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 #i #jj4 7,sold in ,sets only47 ,bridgman's ,algeria4 ,winters in ,algeria4 ,written and ,illustrated by ,,frederick ,,arthur ,,bridgman4 ,square #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,ornamental1 #b #ej4 ,pennells' ,hebrides4 ,our ,journey to the ,hebrides4 ,by ,,joseph ,,pennell and ,,elizabeth ,,robins ,,pennell4 ,illustrated4 ,post #hvo1 ,cloth1 ,ornamental4 #a #ge4 ,shoshone1 and ,other ,western ,wonders4 ,by ,,edwards ,,roberts4 ,with a ,preface by ,,charles ,,francis ,,adams4 ,illustrated4 pp4 xvi41 #bgf4 ,post #hvo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj2 ,paper1 #ge cents4 ,schweinfurth's ,heart of ,africa4 ,the ,heart of ,africa2 or1 ,three ,years' ,travels and ,adventures in the ,unexplored ,regions of the ,centre of ,africa4 ,from #ahfh to #ahga4 ,by ,dr4 ,,georg ,,schweinfurth4 ,translated by ,,ellen ,e4 ,,frewer4 ,with an ,introduction by ,,winwood ,,reade4 ,illustrated by about #acj ,wood-cuts from ,drawings made by the ,author1 and with ,two ,maps4 #b vols41 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #h #jj4 ,speke's ,africa4 ,journal of the ,discovery of the ,source of the ,nile4 ,by ,,john ,,hanning ,,speke1 ,captain ,h4 ,m4 ,indian ,army1 ,fellow and ,gold ,medalist of the ,royal ,geographical ,society1 ,hon4 ,corresponding ,member and ,gold ,medalist of the ,french ,geographical ,society1 c4 ,with ,maps and ,portraits and numerous ,illustrations1 chiefly from ,drawings by ,captain ,,grant4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #d #jj2 ,sheep1 #d #ej4 ,baker's ,ismaila4 ,ismaila3 a ,narrative of the ,expedition to ,central ,africa for the ,suppression of the ,slave-trade1 organized by ,,ismail1 ,,khedive ,,of ,,egypt4 ,by ,sir ,,samuel ,,white ,,baker1 ,pasha1 ,m4,a41 ,f4,r4,s41 ,f4,r4,g4,s41 ,major-general of the ,ottoman ,empire1 late ,governor-general of the ,equatorial ,nile ,basin1 c41 c4 ,with ,maps1 ,portraits1 and upwards of fifty full-page ,illustrations by ,zwecker and ,durand4 #hvo1 ,cloth1 #e #jj2 ,half ,calf1 #g #be4