file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #bhdia-;h4htm or #bhdia-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ h_/d_/i_/bhdia_/bhdia-;h_/#bhdia-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ h_/d_/i_/bhdia_/bhdia-;h4zip7 ,,dishes ,,beverages ,,of ,,the ,,old ,,south by ,martha ,mc,culloch-,williams ,author of ,field ,farings1 ,two of a ,trade1 ,milre1 ,next to the ,ground1 etc4 ,decorations by ,russel ,crofoot ,illustration ,new ,york ,mc,bride ,nast ,company #aiac ,copyright1 #aiac1 by ,mcbride1 ,nast ,co4 ,published1 ,october1 #aiac ,,contents ,,page ,,grace ,,before ,,meat #i ,,the ,,staff ,,of ,,life #bf ,,saving ,,your ,,bacon #ci ,,hams ,,and ,,other ,,hams #ei ,,for ,,thirsty ,,souls #gb ,,paste1 ,,pies1 ,,puddings #ij ,,creole ,,cookery #aah ,,cakes1 ,,great ,,and ,,small #acf ,,meat1 ,,poultry1 ,,game1 ,,eggs #aeh ,,soups1 ,,salads1 ,,relishes #ahe ,,vegetables1 ,,fruit ,,desserts1 ,,sandwiches #bjb ,,pickles1 ,,preserves1 ,,coffee1 ,,tea1 ,,chocolate #bbj ,,when ,,the ,,orchards ,,hit #bci ,,upon ,,occasions #beg ,,soap ,,and ,,candles #bib ,dishes ,beverages of the ,old ,south ,illustration3 ,grace before ,meat ,let me cook the dinners of a nation1 and ,i shall not care who makes its laws4 ,women1 if they did but know it1 might well thus paraphrase a famous saying4 ,proper dinners mean so much--good blood1 good health1 good judgment1 good conduct4 ,the fact makes tragic a truth too little regarded2 namely1 that while bad cooking can ruin the very best of raw foodstuffs1 all the arts of all the cooks in the world can do no more than palliate things stale1 flat and unprofitable4 ,to buy such things is waste1 instead of economy4 ,food must satisfy the palate else it will never truly satisfy the stomach4 ,an unsatisfied stomach1 or one overworked by having to wrestle with food which has bulk out of all proportion to flavor1 too often makes its vengeful protest in dyspepsia4 ,it is said underdone mutton cost ,napoleon the battle of ,leipsic1 and eventually his crown4 ,i wonder1 now and then1 if the prevalence of divorce has any connection with the decline of home cooking8 ,a far cry1 and heretical1 do you say1 gentle reader8 ,not so far after all--these be sociologic days4 ,i am but leading up to the theory with facts behind it1 that it was through being the best fed people in the world1 we of the ,south ,country were able to put up the best fight in history1 and after the ravages and ruin of civil war1 come again to our own4 ,we might have been utterly crushed but for our proud and pampered stomachs1 which in turn gave the bone1 brain and brawn for the conquests of peace4 ,so here's to our ,mammys--,god bless them6 ,god rest them6 ,this imperfect chronicle of the nurture wherewith they fed us is inscribed with love to their memory4 ,almost my earliest memory is of ,mammy's kitchen4 ,permission to loiter there was a ,reward of ,merit--a sort of domestic ,victoria ,cross4 ,if1 when company came to spend the day1 ,i made my manners prettily1 ,i might see all the delightful hurley-burley of dinner-cooking4 ,my seat was the biscuit block1 a section of tree-trunk at least three feet across1 and waist-high4 ,mammy set me upon it1 but first covered it with her clean apron--it was almost the only use she ever made of the apron4 ,the block stood well out of the way--next the meal barrel in the corner behind the door1 and hard by the ,short ,shelf1 sacred to cake and piemaking1 as the ,long ,shelf beneath the window was given over to the three water buckets--cedar with brass hoops always shining like gold--the piggin1 also of cedar1 the corn-bread tray1 and the cup-noggin4 ,above1 the log wall bristled with knives of varying edge1 stuck in the cracks2 with nails whereon hung flesh-forks1 spoons1 ladles1 skimmers4 ,these were for the most part hand-wrought1 by the local blacksmith4 ,the forks in particular were of a classic grace--so much so that when1 in looking through my big sister's mythology ,i came upon a picture of ,neptune with his trident1 ,i called it his flesh-fork1 and asked if he were about to take up meat with it1 from the waves boiling about his feet4 ,the kitchen proper would give ,domestic ,science heart failure1 yet it must have been altogether sanitary4 ,nothing about it was tight enough to harbor a self-respecting germ4 ,it was the rise of twenty feet square1 built stoutly of hewn logs1 with a sharply pitched board roof1 a movable loft1 a plank floor boasting inch-wide cracks1 a door1 two windows and a fireplace that took up a full half of one end4 ,in front of the fireplace stretched a rough stone hearth1 a yard in depth4 ,sundry and several cranes swung against the chimney-breast4 ,when fully in commission they held pots enough to cook for a regiment4 ,the pots themselves1 of cast iron1 with close-fitting tops1 ran from two to ten gallons in capacity1 had rounded bottoms with three pertly outstanding legs1 and ears either side for the iron pot-hooks1 which varied in size even as did the pots themselves4 ,additionally there were ovens1 deep and shallow1 spiders1 skillets1 a couple of tea-kettles1 a stew kettle1 a broiler with a long spider-legged trivet to rest on1 a hoe-baker1 a biscuit-baker1 and waffle-irons with legs like tongs4 ,each piece of hollow ware had its lid1 with eye on top for lifting off with the hooks4 ,live coals1 spread on hearth and lids1 did the cooking4 ,to furnish them there was a wrought iron shovel1 so big and heavy nobody but ,mammy herself could wield it properly4 ,emptied vessels were turned upside down on the floor under the ,long ,shelf--grease kept away rust4 ,but before one was used it had to be scoured with soap and sand rock1 rinsed and scalded4 ,periodically every piece was burned out--turned upside down over a roaring fire and left there until red hot1 then slowly cooled4 ,this burning out left a fine smooth surface after scouring4 ,cast iron1 being in a degree porous1 necessarily took up traces of food when it had been used for cooking a month or so4 ,ah me6 ,what savors1 what flavors came out of the pots6 ,years on years ,i was laughed at for maintaining that no range ever turned out things to equal open-hearth cookery4 ,but it took paper bags to prove beyond cavil the truth of my contention4 ,even paper-bagging does not quite match the open-hearth process1 though there is the same secret of superiority1 namely1 cooking things in their own essence by the agency of hot air4 ,the sealed and loaded bag needs must be laid on a grate-shelf in a hot oven--touch of solid hot iron is fatal to it4 ,iron vessels set above smoothly spread coals got hot1 but not red-hot--red heat belonged to the lids4 ,they were swung over the fire and heated before setting them in place--then the blanket of coals and embers held in heat which1 radiating downward1 made the cooking even4 ,scorching of course was possible unless the cook knew her business1 and minded it well4 ,our ,mammys not only knew their business but loved it--often with a devotion that raised it to the rank of ,art4 ,add the palate of a gourmet born1 a free hand at the fat1 the sweet1 strong waters and high flavors--what wonder it is to envy those of us they fed6 ,my individual ,mammy was in figure an oblate spheroid--she stood five feet1 one inch high1 weighed two hundred and fifty pounds1 had a head so flat buckets sat on it as of right1 was as light on her feet1 in number twelve shoes1 as the slimmest of her children and foster children1 could shame the best man on the place at lifting with the hand-stick1 or chop him to a standstill--if her axe exactly suited her4 ,she loved her work1 her mistress1 her children black and white--even me1 though ,i was something of a trial--her garden and her ,god4 ,all these she served fondly1 faithfully1 with rare good humor and the nicest judgment4 ,fall soft upon her1 rain and snow6 ,sunshine and green grass1 make happy always the slope where she rests6 ,she put on a clean white frock every morning--by breakfast time it was a sickly gray along the front--the thick of the dinner-battle was writ large on it in black smudges4 ,she herself explained3 ,i ain't sech er dirty 'ooman--hit's dest ,i'se so big1 dirt ketches me comin' and gwine4 ,air and more air she would have1 regardless of weather4 ,the big board-window had its shutter up all day long--the glass window was a vexation1 since it opened only halfway4 ,by way of evening things1 daubing and chinking got knocked out of at least half the cracks between the wall logs as sure as ,easter came--not to be replaced until the week before ,christmas4 ,i doubt if they would have been put back even then1 but that ,mammy dreaded criticism1 from maids and carriage drivers visiting kinfolk brought with them4 ,big yawning cracks in cold weather were in a way the hall-mark of poor-white cabins4 ,it would have half broken ,mammy's heart to give anybody room to say she belonged to less than real quality4 ,she was autocratic2 a benevolent despot2 withal severe4 ,if ,i displeased her by meddling1 putting small grimy fingers into pies they should not touch1 she set me to shelling black-eyed peas--a task my soul loathed1 likewise the meddlesome fingers--still ,i knew better than to sulk or whine over it4 ,for that ,i would have been sent back into the house4 ,the kitchen stood thirty yards away from the back door1 with a branchy oak in front of it1 and another1 even branchier1 shading the log foot-way between4 ,the house offered only grown-up talk1 which rarely interested me4 ,in the kitchen ,i caught scraps of ,brer ,rabbit's history1 pithily applied1 other scraps of song--,mammy always gave out the words to herself before singing them--proverbs and sayings such as ,cow want her tail agin in fly-time applied to an ingrate1 or3 ,dat's er high kick fer er low horse1 by way of setting properly in place a pretender4 ,best of all1 ,i got the latest news of the countryside for ten miles around4 ,wireless has little on the way things ran about among the plantations4 ,it was a point of honor among the black men to have wives or sweethearts away from home4 ,this meant running about nightly--consequently cross-currents of gossip lively enough to make the yellowest journal turn green with envy4 ,mammy was a trifle apologetic over having a husband no further off than the next neighbor's4 ,to make up for it1 however1 the husbands who came to his house lived from three to five miles away--and one of them worked at the mill1 hence was a veritable human chronicle4 ,thus ,mammy was able to hold her head up with ,susan1 her sister1 who milked and washed4 ,susan might have been called a widow of degrees--she had had three husbands1 but only two were living4 ,the last parting was always threatening to end in meeting over again--still that did not hinder her cabin from being the rendezvous of all the likeliest fellows within easy walking range4 ,naturally she had things to tell--worth hearing whether or no they were true4 ,so also had ,phoebe1 who was a sort of scullion1 fetching in wood and water1 gathering vegetables1 picking chickens1 scouring all things from the big pot to the floor4 ,shelves were scoured daily1 the floor three times a week4 ,this had to be a matter of faith after an hour or so--it certainly did not look it4 ,sweeping1 done three times a day1 was largely a matter of form4 ,phoebe went conscientiously over the uncluttered spaces1 and even reached the nose of her broom between pots and ovens1 but only coarse trash gathered before the broom--all the rest went through the cracks4 ,mammy said ,phoebe's news could be believed4 ,de gal don't know no mo'n ter tell dest whut she done heard4 ,she truly was slow-witted and slow-spoken1 but ,isham1 her step-father1 was cook to the ,gresham brothers1 the beaux of the neighborhood1 who kept bachelor's hall4 ,his mother had been their ,mammy--hence his inherited privilege of knowing rather more about his young masters than they knew themselves4 ,little pitchers have big ears4 ,set it to the credit of the black folk1 they always had regard for the innocence of childhood4 ,scandal was merely breathed--not even so hinted as to arouse curiosity4 ,foul speech ,i never heard from them nor a trace of profanity4 ,what ,i did hear was a liberal education in the humanities--as time passes ,i rate more and more highly the sense of values it fixed in a plastic mind4 ,i think it must have been because our ,mammys saw all things from the elemental angle1 they were critics so illuminating of manners and morals4 ,here ends reminiscence1 set down in hope it may breed understanding4 ,all ,i actually learned from ,mammy and her cooking was--how things ought to taste4 ,the which is essential4 ,it has been the pole-star of my career as a cook4 ,followed faithfully along the ,way of ,many ,failures1 through a ,country of ,tribulations1 it has brought me into the haven of knowledge absolute4 ,if the testimony of empty plates and smiling guests can establish a fact1 then ,i am a good cook--though limited4 ,i profess only to cook the things ,i care to cook well4 ,hence ,i have set my hand to this1 a real cook's book4 ,most cook books are written by folk who cook by hearsay--it is the fewest number of real cooks who can write so as not to bewilder the common or garden variety of mind4 ,the bulk of what follows has an old-time ,southern foundation1 with such frillings as experience approves4 ,to it there will be added somewhat of ,creole cookery1 learned and proved here in ,new ,york town by grace of ,milly1 the very queen of ,new ,orleans cooks1 temporarily transplanted4 ,also sundry and several delectable dishes of alien origins--some as made in ,france or ,germany1 some from the far ,philippines1 but all proved before record4 ,in each case the source is indicated in the title4 ,things my very own1 evolved from my inner consciousness1 my outer opportunity and environment1 ,i shall likewise mark personal4 ,lastly1 but far from leastly1 let me make protest against over-elaboration1 alike in food and the serving thereof4 ,the very best decoration for a table is something good in the plates4 ,this is not saying one should not plan to please the eye no less than the palate4 ,but ribbon on sandwiches is an anachronism--so is all the flummery of silk and laces1 doilies and doo-dads that so often bewilder us4 ,they are unfair to the food--as hard to live up to as anybody's blue china4 ,i smile even yet1 remembering my husband's chuckles1 after we had come home from eating delicatessen chicken off ten-dollar plates1 by help of antique silver4 ,somehow the viands and the service seemed out of drawing4 ,quoth ,heine the cynic3 ,woman1 woman6 ,much must be forgiven thee6 ,thou hast loved much--and many4 ,edibly ,i love much rather than many4 ,enough of one thoroughly good thing1 with proper accessories1 is more satisfying than seven courses--each worse than the last4 ,also cheaper1 also much less trouble4 ,if time has any value1 the economy of it in dishwashing alone is worth considering4 ,in these piping days of rising prices1 economy sounds good1 even in the abstract4 ,add the concrete fact that you save money as well as trouble1 and the world of cooks may well sit up and take notice4 ,the one-piece dinner is as convenient and comfortable as the one-piece frock4 ,there are1 of course1 occasions to which it is unsuited4 ,one-piece must be understood to mean the pice de resistance--the backbone of subsistence as it were4 ,a bowl of rich soup or chowder1 with crackers on the side1 a generous helping of well-cooked meat1 with bread or potatoes1 and the simplest relishes1 or a royally fat pudding overrun with brandy sauce2 each or either can put it all over a splash of this1 a dab of that1 a slab of something else1 set lonesomely on a separate plate and reckoned a meal--in courses4 ,courses are all well enough--they have my warm heart when they come in the picture4 ,but when they are mostly ,the substance of things hoped for1 the evidence of things not seen1 then ,i would trade them1 and gladly1 for as much good bread and butter as appetite called for4 ,by way of postscript3 being a strict and ardent advocate of temperance1 ,i refused to consider writing this book unless ,i had full liberty to advise the use of wine1 brandy1 cordials1 liquors1 where good cooking demands them4 ,any earthly thing can be abused--to teach right use is the best preventive of abuse4 ,liquors1 like everything else1 must be good4 ,cooking sherry is as much an abomination as cooking butter1 or cooking apples4 ,you will never get out of pot or pan anything fundamentally better than what went into it4 ,cooking is not alchemy2 there is no magic in the pot4 ,the whole art and mystery of it is to apply heat and seasoning in such fashion as to make the best1 and the most1 of such food supplies as your purse permits4 ,tough meat cannot be cooked tender2 tainted meat cannot be cooked sound4 ,it is the same with stale fish1 specked or soured fruit1 withered vegetables4 ,it pays to educate tradesfolk into understanding that you want the best and only the best of what you buy4 ,if the thing you want1 in perfect condition1 is beyond your means1 take1 instead of a lower grade of it1 the highest grade of something cheaper4 ,so shall you escape waste of time1 effort and substance4 ,never mind sneers at your simple fare4 ,remember it was ,solomon the ,wise who wrote3 ,better a dinner of herbs and contentment than a stalled ox1 and contention therewith4 ,paraphrase the last clause into spoiled ox and ptomaines therewith1 and you may keep not only self-respect1 but that of the neighbors4 ,illustration3 ,the ,staff of ,life ,bread1 more than almost any other foodstuff1 can not be better than what it is made of4 ,here as elsewhere a bungler can ruin the very best of flour or meal4 ,but the queen of cooks can not make good a fundamental deficiency4 ,hence in buying flour look for these things3 a slightly creamy cast--dazzling whiteness shows bleaching1 as a gray-white1 or black specks mean grinding from spoiled grain4 ,the feel should be velvety1 with no trace of roughness--roughness means1 commonly1 mixture with corn4 ,a handful tightly gripped should keep the shape of the hand1 and show to a degree the markings of the palm4 ,a pinch wet rather stiff1 and stretched between thumb and finger1 will show by the length of the thread it spins richness or poverty in gluten--one of the most valuable food elements4 ,the cornmeal of commerce will not be satisfactory in any receipt here given4 ,it has been bolted and kiln-dried out of all natural flavor4 ,take the trouble to get meal water-ground1 from white flint corn1 and fresh from the mill4 ,then you will have something worth spending time and effort upon--spending them hopefully4 ,why1 the wisest man can not tell--but steam-ground meal is of a flavor wholly unlike that water-ground4 ,the grinding should be neither too fine nor too coarse4 ,bran left in1 and sifted out as needed1 helps to save from musting1 and to preserve the delicate natural flavor4 ,fresh meal1 in clean bright tin or glass1 or in a stout paper sack1 where it is dry1 cool and airy will keep two months4 ,hence buy it judiciously1 in proportion to your family's corn-cake appetite4 ,it is impossible to give exactly the amount of liquid for any sort of bread-making because the condition of flour and meal varies with weather and keeping4 ,this applies also to sugar--hence the need for intelligence in the use of receipts4 ,in damp muggy weather moisture is absorbed from the atmosphere4 ,upon a dry day especially if there is much wind1 drying out is inevitable4 ,anything that feels clammy1 or that clots1 should be dried in a warm1 not hot1 oven4 ,heating flour before mixing it1 taking care not to scorch it in the least1 is one small secret of light bread1 biscuit and cake4 ,flour in a bag may be laid in the sun with advantage4 ,use judgment in mixing4 ,note the appearance of what you are making closely--when it turns out extra good1 set up that first condition as a standard4 99 99 99 99 99 ,beaten ,biscuit3 7,old ,style47 ,sift a quart of flour into a bowl or tray1 add half a teaspoon salt1 then cut small into it a teacup of very cold lard4 ,wet with cold water--ice water is best--into a very stiff dough4 ,lay on a floured block1 or marble slab1 and give one hundred strokes with a mallet or rolling pin4 ,fold afresh as the dough beats thin1 dredging in flour if it begins to stick4 ,the end of beating is to distribute air well through the mass1 which1 expanding by the heat of baking1 makes the biscuit light4 ,the dough should be firm1 but smooth and very elastic4 ,roll to half-inch thickness1 cut out with a small round cutter1 prick lightly all over the top1 and bake in steady heat to a delicate brown4 ,too hot an oven will scorch and blister1 too cold an one make the biscuit hard and clammy4 ,aim for the ,irishman's middle exthrame4 ,there are sundry machines which do away with beating4 ,it is possible also to avoid it by running the dough1 after mixing1 several times through a food-chopper4 ,also beaten biscuit can be closely imitated by making good puff paste1 rolling1 cutting out1 pricking and baking--but rather more quickly than the real thing4 ,all these are expedients for those who live in apartments1 where the noise of beating might be held against good neighborhood4 ,householders1 and especially suburban ones1 should indulge in the luxury of a block or stone or marble slab--and live happy ever after1 if they can but get cooks able and willing to make proper use of it4 ,soda ,biscuit3 7,old ,style47 ,sift a quart of flour with a heaping teaspoonful of baking soda4 ,add a good pinch of salt1 rub well through lard or butter the size of the fist1 then wet with sour milk to a moderately soft dough1 roll out1 working quickly1 cut with small round cutter1 set in hot pans1 leaving room to swell1 and bake in a quick oven just below scorching heat4 ,handle as lightly as possible all through--this makes flaky biscuit4 ,by way of variety1 roll out thin--less than a half-inch1 cut with three-inch cutter1 grease lightly on top1 and fold along the middle4 ,let rise on top a hot stove several minutes before putting to bake4 ,by adding an egg1 beaten light1 with a heaping tablespoonful of sugar to the dough in mixing1 these doubled biscuit will be quite unlike the usual sort4 ,salt ,rising ,bread3 7,as ,mammy ,made ,it47 ,scald a tablespoonful of sifted cornmeal1 and a teaspoonful--heaped--of salt with a pint of boiling water1 let stand ten minutes1 then stir in1 taking care to mix smooth1 enough dried and sifted flour to make a thick batter4 ,damp flour will not rise4 ,the batter should be almost thick enough to hold the mixing spoon upright--but not quite thick enough4 ,set the mixture in warm water--just as hot as you can bear your hand in4 ,keep up the heat steadily1 but never make too hot--scalding ruins everything4 ,keep lightly covered1 and away from draughts4 ,look in after an hour--if water has risen on top1 stir in more flour4 ,watch close--in six hours the yeast should be foamy-light4 ,have ready three quarts of dry sifted flour1 make a hole in the center of it1 pour in the yeast1 add a trifle more salt1 a tablespoonful sugar1 and half a cup of lard4 ,work all together to a smooth dough1 rinsing out the vessel that has held the yeast1 with warm not hot water to finish the mixing4 ,divide into loaves1 put in greased pans1 grease lightly over the top1 and set to rise1 in gentle heat4 ,when risen bake with steady quick heat4 ,take from pans hot1 and cool between folds of clean cloth1 spread upon a rack1 or else turn the loaves edgewise upon a clean board1 and cover with cheese cloth4 ,to make supper-rolls1 shape some of the dough into balls1 brush over with melted butter1 set in a deep pan1 just so they do not touch1 raise and bake the same as bread4 ,dough can be saved over for breakfast rolls1 by keeping it very cold1 and working in at morning1 a tiny pinch of soda before shaping the balls4 ,sweet ,potato ,biscuit3 7,old ,style47 ,boil soft two large or four small sweet potatoes1 mash smooth while very hot1 free of strings and eyes1 add a pinch of salt1 then rub well through three cups of sifted flour4 ,rub in also a generous handful of shortening1 then wet up soft with two eggs beaten very light1 and sweet milk4 ,a little sugar also if you have a sweet tooth--but only a little4 ,roll to half-inch thickness1 cut out with small cutter1 lay in warm pan1 and bake brown in a quick oven4 ,soda and buttermilk can take the place of eggs and sweet milk--in which case the sugar is advisable4 ,mix the soda with the milk--enough to make it foamy1 but no more4 ,waffles3 7,mammy's47 ,separate three eggs4 ,beat yolks and whites very light4 ,add to the yolks alternately a pint of very rich sweet milk1 and handfuls of sifted flour4 ,enough to make a batter rather thicker than cream4 ,put in also half a teaspoon--scant--of salt1 and half a cup of lard1 or lard and butter1 melted so it will barely run4 ,mix well1 then add the beaten whites of egg4 ,have the waffle irons hot but not scorching--grease well with melted lard--the salt in butter will make the batter stick4 ,cook quickly but take care not to burn4 ,lay on hot plate--have a pitcher of melted butter to pour on4 ,lay the second waffle upon the first1 butter1 and keep hot4 ,it is not safe to begin serving without at least six waffles in plate4 ,this1 of course1 provided you have several eaters with genuine appetites4 ,syrup can be passed with the waffles--but it is profanation to drench them with it--strong clear coffee1 and broiled chicken are the proper accompaniments at breakfast4 ,plain ,corn ,bread3 7,the ,best47 ,sift sound fresh white cornmeal1 wet with cold water to a fairly soft dough1 shape it by tossing from hand to hand into small pones1 and lay them as made into a hot pan well sprinkled with dry meal4 ,the pan should be hot enough to brown the meal without burning it4 ,make the pones about an inch thick1 four inches long1 and two and a half broad4 ,bake quickly1 taking care not to scorch1 until there is a brown crust top and bottom4 ,for hoe-cakes make the dough a trifle softer1 lay it by handfuls upon a hot-meal-sprinkled griddle1 taking care the handfuls do not touch4 ,flatten to half an inch1 let brown underneath1 then turn1 press down and brown the upper side4 ,do not let yourself be seduced into adding salt--the delight of plain corn-bread is its affinity for fresh butter4 ,it should be eaten drenched with butter of its own melting--the butter laid in the heart of it after splitting pone or hoe-cake4 ,salt destroys this fine affinity4 ,it however savors somewhat bread to be eaten butterless4 ,therefore ,mammy always said3 ,salt in corn-bread hit does taste so po' white-folks'y4 ,she had little patience with those neighbors of ours who perforce had no butter to their bread4 ,egg ,bread3 7,mammy's47 ,beat two eggs very light with a pinch of salt1 add two cups sifted cornmeal1 then wet with a pint of buttermilk in which a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved4 ,stir in a spoonful of shortening1 barely melted1 mix well1 and pour into well greased pans or skillets1 cook quickly1 till the crust is a good brown1 and serve immediately4 ,or bake in muffin moulds4 ,for delicate stomachs the shortening can be left out1 but pans or moulds must be greased extra well4 ,if milk is very sour1 make it one-third water--this is better than putting in more soda4 ,batter ,cakes3 7,old ,style47 ,sift together half-cup flour1 cup and a half meal1 add pinch of salt1 scald with boiling water1 stir smooth1 then add two eggs well beaten1 and thin with sweet milk--it will take about half a pint4 ,bake by spoonfuls on a hot1 well-greased griddle--the batter must run very freely4 ,serve very hot with fresh sausage1 or fried pigs' feet if you would know just how good batter cakes can be4 ,ash ,cake3 7,pioneer47 ,this is possible only with wood fires--to campers or millionaires4 ,make dough as for plain bread1 but add the least trifle of salt1 sweep the hot hearth very clean1 pile the dough on it in a flattish mound1 cover with big leaves--cabbage leaves will do at a pinch1 or even thick clean paper1 then pile on embers with coals over them and leave for an hour or more1 according to size4 ,take up1 brush off ashes1 and break away any cindery bits4 ,serve with new butter and fresh buttermilk4 ,this was sometimes the sole summer supper of very great families in the old time4 ,beyond a doubt1 ash cake properly cooked has a savory sweetness possible to no other sort of corn bread4 ,mush ,bread3 7,overton ,receipt47 ,to a quart of very thick mush1 well salted1 add three fresh eggs1 breaking them in one after the other1 and beating hard between4 ,when smooth add half a cup of rich milk1 and half a cup melted butter4 ,stir hard1 then add one teaspoonful baking powder1 and bake quickly4 ,bake in the serving dish as it is too soft for turning out1 requiring to be dipped on the plates with a spoon4 ,hence the name in some mouths3 ,spoon bread4 ,cracklin' ,bread3 7,pioneer47 ,sift a pint of meal1 add a pinch of salt1 then mix well through a teacup of cracklings--left from rendering lard4 ,wet up with boiling water1 make into small pones1 and bake brown in a quick but not scorching oven4 ,pumpkin ,bread3 7,pioneer47 ,sift a pint of meal1 add salt to season fully1 then rub through a large cupful of stewed pumpkin1 made very smooth4 ,add half a cup melted lard1 then mix with sweet milk to a fairly stiff dough1 make pones1 and bake crisp4 ,mashed sweet potato can be used instead of pumpkin1 and cracklings1 rubbed very fine in place of lard4 ,folks curious as to older cookery1 can even make persimmon bread1 using the pulp of ripe persimmons to mix with the meal--but they will need the patience of ,job to free the pulp properly from skin and seed4 ,mush ,batter ,cakes3 7,for ,invalids47 ,bring half a pint of water to a bubbling boil in something open1 add to it a pinch of salt1 then by littles1 strew in a cup of sifted meal1 stirring it well to avoid lumps4 ,let cool partly1 then cook by small spoonfuls on a hot griddle very lightly greased4 ,make the spoonfuls brown on both sides1 and serve very hot4 ,wafers3 7,for ,invalids or ,parties47 ,rub a cup of lard or butter1 through a quart of sifted flour4 ,butter will give enough salt--with lard add a pinch4 ,mix with sweet milk1 the richer the better1 to a smooth dough1 not stiff nor soft4 ,shape into balls the size of a small egg1 roll out very thin1 prick lightly all over1 and bake brown--it will take about five minutes in a quick oven4 ,cool on cloth and keep dry4 ,handle delicately--if the wafers are what they should be2 they break and crumble at any rough touch4 ,illustration3 ,saving ,your ,bacon ,plenty in the smokehouse was the cornerstone of the old time southern cookery4 ,hence hog-killing was a festival as joyous as ,christmas--and little less sacred4 ,there was keen rivalry amongst plantations as to which should show the finest pen of fattening hogs4 ,though the plantation force was commonly amply sufficient for the work of slaughter1 owners indulged their slaves by asking help of each other--of course returning the favor at need4 ,a far cry from a cook book1 common or garden variety4 ,here1 it is worth its space1 as explaining in a measure what follows4 ,namely full direction for choosing your fatted pig1 cutting him up1 and making the most of the ultimate results4 ,choose carcasses between a hundred and seventy-five and a hundred and fifty pounds in weight1 of a fresh pinky white hue1 free of cuts1 scratches1 or bruises1 the skin scraped clean1 and firm1 not slimy1 to touch1 the fat firm and white1 the lean a lively purplish pink4 ,two inches of clear fat over the backbone1 and the thick of the ribs should be the limit4 ,anything more is wasteful--unless there is a great need of lard in the kitchen4 ,the pig should be chilled throughout1 but not frozen--freezing injures flavor and texture somewhat1 besides preventing the proper quick striking in of salt4 ,curing space permitting1 it is wise to cut up several pigs at once4 ,the trouble is hardly increased1 and the results1 especially in saving1 very much greater4 ,the head will have been at least half severed in slaughtering4 ,with a very sharp butcher knife1 after the pig is laid on the chopping block1 cut deeply through the skin1 all round1 then with a blow or two of the axe sever the head4 ,next cut through the skin deeply1 either side of the back bone4 ,the cuts should be evenly parallel1 and about two inches apart4 ,now turn the pig on his back1 part the legs and with the meat axe chop through the ribs1 and joints4 ,after chopping1 cut the backbone free with the knife1 trim off the strip of fat for the lard pile1 chop the backbone itself into pieces three to four inches long1 until the chine is reached--the part betwixt the shoulder blades with the high spinal processes4 ,leave the chine intact for smoking1 along with the jowls and sausage4 ,pull out the leaf-fat--it grows around and over the kidneys4 ,also pull out the spare ribs1 leaving only one or two in the shoulders4 ,this done1 chop off feet1 then with the knife cut hams and shoulders free from the sides4 ,trim after cutting out1 saving all trimmings for sausage4 ,save every bit of pure fat for lard4 ,also cut away the clear fat at the top of the sides1 devoting it to the same use4 ,make clean cuts on the joints--this means a knife often whetted4 ,trim the hams rather flat1 and shape the hip bone neatly4 ,the commercial fashion of cutting away all the upper half of hams is fatal to perfect flavor4 ,trim shoulders close1 unless they are destined to be made into sausage--in that case put them with the other scraps4 ,sides can either be cut into strips four to five inches wide the long way1 after the manner of commercial breakfast bacon1 or left whole throughout their streaky part1 cutting away solid fat along the top for lard4 ,separate the heads at the jaw1 leaving the tongue attached to the jowl1 and taking care not to cut it4 ,cut off the snout two inches above the tip1 then lay the upper part of the head1 skin down1 crack the inner bone with the axe1 press the broken bones apart1 and take out the brains4 ,jowls are to be salted and smoked--heads are best either simply corned for boiling with cabbage1 peas1 beans1 etc41 or made in conjunction with the feet into headcheese1 whose south country name is souse4 ,use regular pickling salt--coarse-grained and lively4 ,spread it an inch thick upon clean wood--a broad shelf1 box bottom1 or something similar4 ,rub the meat well over with salt1 and then lay it neatly1 skin-side down1 upon the salt layer1 spread more salt on top1 and put on another layer of meat4 ,put sides together1 likewise hams and shoulders4 ,pack as close as possible and fill all crevices with salt4 ,salt alone will save your bacon1 but a teacup of moist sugar well mixed through a water-bucket of salt improves the flavor4 ,use this on sides1 jowls and chines4 ,the joints1 hams and shoulders1 especially if the shoulders are close-cut1 need a trifle more sugar in the salt1 also a trifle of saltpeter--say an ounce in fine powder to three gallons of salt4 ,rub the skin-sides over with plain salt1 and lay upon the salt-covered shelf the same as sides4 ,then take a handful of the mixture and rub it in hard around the bone1 then cover the whole cut surface half an inch thick1 spread on dry salt for another layer of hams or shoulders1 and repeat4 ,salt the chines lightly--their surface1 cut all over1 takes up too much salt if permitted4 ,there should be holes or cracks in the bottom to let the dissolved salt drip away2 it is best also to have it a foot at least above the floor4 ,cover the meat thus in bulk1 but not too close1 and leave standing a fortnight4 ,the cooler and airier the place it stands in the better--freezing even is not objectionable when the salt begins striking in4 ,but with freezing weather the meat must lie longer in salt4 ,overhaul it after the first fortnight--that is to say break up the bulk1 shake away bloody salt1 sweep the bottom clean1 and put on fresh salt4 ,but use very little saltpeter on the joints this time--on pain of making them too hard as to their lean4 ,its use is to give firmness and a handsome clear red color--an overdose of it produces a faintly undesirable flavor4 ,some famous ham makers1 at this second salting1 rub the cut sides over lightly with very good molasses1 and sprinkle on ground black pepper1 before adding new salt4 ,others rub in a teaspoonful of sugar mixed with pounded red pepper around the bone4 ,but very excellent hams can be made without such excess of painstaking4 ,let the meat lie two to four weeks after overhauling1 according to the weather4 ,take up1 wipe all over with coarse clean cloth1 furnish each piece with a loop of stout twine at least four inches long1 and so run through the flesh1 tearing out is impossible4 ,run through the hock of hams1 the upper tip of shoulders1 the thickest part of sides1 the pointed tip of jowls4 ,jowls may not need to lie so long as bigger pieces1 especially if part of their fat has gone to lard4 ,chines can be hung up in three weeks1 and cured with a very light smoking1 along with the bags of sausage4 ,hang hams highest1 shoulders next1 then sides1 jowls1 etc4 ,leave to drip forty-eight hours unless the weather turns suddenly warm1 damp and muggy--in that case start the smoking after a few hours4 ,smoke from green hickory1 sound and bright1 is needed for the finest flavor4 ,lay small logs so they will hug together as they burn1 kindle fire along the whole length of them1 then smother it with damp1 small chips1 trash1 bark and so on1 but take care to have everything sound4 ,rotten wood1 or that which is water-logged or mildewed1 makes rank1 ill-smelling smoke4 ,take greater care that the logs never blaze up1 also that the meat is high enough to escape fire-heating4 ,once it gets hot from the fire all your trouble will have been for naught--though it will not be tainted it will have the same taste and smell--the degree marking the extent of the heating4 ,old southern smokehouses had for the most part earthen floors1 trenched to make the smoke fires safe4 ,some had puncheon floors1 with an earthen hearth in the middle1 whereupon was placed a furnace of loose brick--that could be kicked over at need1 smothering an outbreaking fire4 ,still others had big cast iron kettles sunk in a sort of well in the floor--with a handy water bucket for quenching fires4 ,whatever the floor1 eternal vigilance was the price of safe bacon--you looked at the smokehouse fires first thing in the morning and last at night4 ,they were put out at sundown1 but had a knack of burning again from some hidden seed of live coal4 ,morning smoke could not well be too thick1 provided it smelled right--keen and clean1 reminiscent of sylvan fragrance--a thick1 acrid smoke that set you sneezing and coughing1 was most tolerable and not to be endured4 ,it was not well to leave the smoke too thick at night--somehow the chill then condensed it4 ,a thin1 blue1 hot-scented but cool1 vapor was the thing to strive for then4 ,there were folk who suggested furnaces--with smoke pipes leading in--ever so much safer they said1 withal much less trouble4 ,why6 even the smoke from a cooking stove might be made to answer4 ,but these progressives were heard coldly--the old timers knew in right of tradition and experience1 the need of well ventilated smoke4 ,it gave this present chronicler a feeling of getting home again1 to walk through the curing rooms of perhaps the most famous bacon makers in the world1 and find them practicing the wisdom of her childhood4 ,namely using hickory smoke not delivered from furnace pipes but welling up1 up1 in beautiful wreathy spirals1 to reach row on row of hams and flitches--and to be told1 by a kind person who did not know she already knew1 that their curing was patterned on the old ,english model--curing in the smoke of great-throated stone hall chimneys4 ,yes--they had tried pipes--furnaces likewise--but they gave too much heat1 did not distribute smoke evenly1 besides being almost impossible of regulation4 ,hence the smoldering hickory that was like a breath from a far past4 ,notwithstanding1 the chronicler is of opinion that folk who would like to try their hands at bacon making may do it with a fair hope without building regular smoke houses4 ,to such she would say1 get a stout hogshead--a sugar hogshead preferable--nail on a board roof to shed water1 then set it upon a stout frame at least seven feet above ground4 ,nail inside it stout cleats1 to hold the cross bars for the meat4 ,hang the meat upon them--but not until the hogshead is in place4 ,cut a hole in the bottom as big as the top of a large barrel4 ,working through this hole1 arrange the meat1 then put below a headless barrel1 the top resting against the hogshead-heading1 the bottom upon supports of gas pipe1 iron1 or even piled bricks4 ,between the supports set an iron vessel--build your hickory smoke-fires in it1 smothering them carefully1 and letting the smoke1 with a sufficiency of air1 well up1 through barrel1 hogshead1 etc4 ,or one might even rig up a smoking hogshead in an attic1 providing the chimney were tall enough to cool smoke properly--and lead smoke out to it through a length of drain pipe4 ,these are but suggestions--the contriving mind will doubtless invent other and better ones4 ,smoking must go on for five weeks at least4 ,six will be better1 slacking toward the end4 ,but two may be made to answer by the use of what is called liquid smoke whose other name is crude pyroligneous acid4 ,a product of wood distillation1 it has been proved harmless in use1 but use is nevertheless forbidden to commercial makers4 ,the meat1 after breaking bulk1 is dipped in it three times at fairly brief intervals1 hung up1 drained1 and smoked4 ,from the liquid smoke it will have acquired as much acid saving-grace1 as from four weeks of old fashioned smoking4 ,a smokehouse needs to be kept dark1 dry1 and cool1 also well ventilated4 ,use fine screen wire over all openings1 and make windows very small1 with coarse1 sleazy crash in the sash rather than glass inside the screens4 ,darkness prevents or discourages the maggot-fly4 ,to discourage him still further cover the cut sides of hams and shoulders before hanging up with molasses made very thick with ground black pepper4 ,they will not absolutely require canvassing and dipping in whitewash after if the peppering is thorough4 ,but to be on the safe side--canvas and dip4 ,make the whitewash with a foundation of thick paste--and be sure it covers every thread of the canvas4 ,hams perfectly cured and canvassed keep indefinitely in the right sort of smokehouse--but there is not much gain in flavor after they are three years old4 ,in rendering lard try out leaf fat to itself--it yields the very finest4 ,cut out the kidneys carefully1 and remove any bit of lean1 then pull off the thin inner skin1 and cut up the leaves--into bits about two inches wide and four long4 ,wash these quickly in tepid water1 drain on a sieve1 and put over a slow fire in an iron vessel rather thick bottomed4 ,add a little cold water--a cupful to a gallon of cut up fat1 and let cook gently until the lumps of fat color faintly4 ,increase heat till there is a mild bubbling--keep the bubbling steady1 stirring often to make sure no lump of fat sticks to the pot and scorches1 until all the lumps are crisp brown cracklings4 ,bright brown1 not dark--if dark the lard will be slightly colored4 ,scorching taints and ruins the whole mass4 ,strain through a sieve into a clean tin vessel1 newly scalded and wiped dry4 ,put the cracklings into a bag of stout crash1 and press hard between two clean boards1 till no more fat runs from them4 ,a jelly press comes in handy1 but is not essential4 ,if weak1 clear lye1 made of green wood ashes1 is put in with the fat instead of water at the beginning1 the fat-yield will be greater1 and the bulk of cracklings less1 also more nearly disintegrated4 ,other fat is tried out in the same way1 taking care to remove all skin and cut away streaks of lean4 ,bits with much lean in them had better go to the sausage mill--the right proportion there is two pounds of fat to three and a half of lean4 ,mix well in grinding1 and remove all strings1 gristle1 etc4 ,seasoning is so much a matter of taste1 do it very lightly at first--then fry a tiny cake1 test it1 and add whatever it seems to lack or need4 ,be rather sparing of salt--eaters can put it in but can not take it out1 and excess of it makes even new sausage taste old4 ,a good combination of flavors1 one approved by experience1 is a cupful of powdered and sifted sage1 an ounce of black pepper newly ground1 and very fine1 a tablespoonful of powdered red pepper1 a teaspoonful of cayenne1 a pinch of thyme in fine powder1 a dozen cloves1 as many grains of alspice1 beaten fine1 a teaspoonful of moist sugar1 and a blade of mace in fine powder4 ,omit the mace1 cloves1 etc4 if the flavor repels4 ,mix all well together1 then work evenly through the meat4 ,this seasoning should suffice for five pounds of ground meat lightly salted4 ,more can be used by those who like high and pronounced flavors4 ,scrape feet very clean1 and take off hoofs by either dipping in scalding hot lye1 or hot wet wood ashes4 ,wash very clean after scraping1 throw in cold water1 soak an hour1 then put in a clean pot with plenty of cold water1 and boil gently until very tender4 ,if boiling for souse cook till the meat and gristle fall from the bones4 ,if for frying1 take up the feet as soon as they are tender1 keeping them in shape4 ,boil heads the same way1 taking out eyes1 cutting off ears and cleaning them carefully inside4 ,pick the meat from the bones1 mix it with the feet also picked up1 work seasoning well through it--salt1 black and red pepper1 herbs if approved1 likewise a trifle of onion juice1 then pack in deep molds1 pour over a little of the boiling liquor--barely enough to moisten--and set to cool uncovered4 ,let the boiling liquor stand until cold1 covered only with a cloth4 ,skim off the oil--hog's foot oil is a fine dressing for any sort of leather--then dip off carefully the jelly underneath4 ,do not disturb the sediment--take only the clear jelly4 ,melted1 clarified with white of egg1 seasoned with wine1 lemon juice1 or grape juice1 and sufficiently sugared1 the result puts all gelatines of commerce clean out of court4 ,indeed any receipt for gelatine desserts can be used with the hog's foot jelly4 ,a small salvage perhaps--but worth while4 ,everybody knows brains can be fried--just as all know they can be addled4 ,we of the old south pickled ours4 ,go and do likewise if you want an experience4 ,begin by scalding the brains--putting them on in cold water very slightly salted1 then letting them barely strike a boil4 ,skim out1 drop in cold water1 take off the skin1 keeping the lobes as whole as possible1 lay in a porcelain kettle1 spice liberally with black and red pepper1 cloves1 nutmeg and allspice1 cover with strong vinegar1 bring to a boil1 cook five minutes1 then put in a jar1 cool uncovered1 tie down and let stand a week before using4 ,thus treated brains will keep for six weeks1 provided they are kept cool4 ,we also pickled our souse--cutting it in thin slices1 and laying them in strong vinegar an hour before serving4 ,another way was to melt the souse into a sort of rich hash--beaten eggs were occasionally added1 and the result served on hot toast4 ,at a pinch it answered for the foundation of a meat pie1 putting in with it in layers1 sliced hard boiled eggs1 sliced cucumber pickle1 plenty of seasoning1 a good lump of butter1 and a little water4 ,the pie was baked quickly--and made a very good supper dish if unexpected company overran the supply of sausage or chicken for frying4 ,but fried hog's feet were nearly the best of hog killing4 ,after boiling tender1 the feet were split lengthwise in half1 rolled in sifted cornmeal1 salted and peppered1 and fried crisp in plenty of boiling hot fat4 ,served with hot biscuit1 and stewed sun-dried peaches1 along with strong coffee1 brown and fragrant1 they made a supper or breakfast one could rejoice in4 ,backbone stewed1 and served with sweet potatoes1 hot corn bread1 and sparkling cider1 was certainly not to be despised4 ,the stewing was gentle1 the seasoning well blended--enough salt but not too much1 red and black pepper1 and the merest dash of pepper vinegar4 ,many cooks left the vinegar to be added in the plates4 ,there was little water at the beginning1 and next to none at the end--the kettle was kept well covered1 and not allowed to boil over4 ,backbone pie held its own with chicken pie--indeed there were those who preferred it4 ,it was made the same way--in a skillet or deep pan lined with rich crust1 then filled with cooked meat1 adding strips of bacon1 and bits of butter rolled in flour1 as well as strips of crust4 ,then the stewing liquor went into the crevices--there might also be a few very tiny crisp brown sausages--cakes no bigger than a lady's watch4 ,over all came a thick1 rich crust1 with a cross-cut in the middle1 and corners turned deftly back4 ,when the crust was brown the pie was done4 ,no doubt we were foolish--but somehow the regular cases made our sausages unappetizing if we put it into them for keeping4 ,further the ,tom ,thumbs were in great request for chitterlings--,i never saw them served to white folks but have smelled their savoriness in the cabins4 ,that is1 however1 beside the mark4 ,we saved our sausage against the spring scarcity in several ways4 ,one was to fry it in quantity1 pack the cakes as fried in crocks1 pour over them the gravy1 and when the jar was almost full1 cover the top an inch deep with melted lard4 ,kept cool and dark the cakes came out as good as they went in4 ,still there were palates that craved smoked sausage4 ,to satisfy them1 some folk tied up the meat in links of clean corn husks1 and hung them at the side where the smoke barely touched them4 ,another way was to make small bags of stout unbleached muslin1 fill1 tie close1 dip the bag in melted grease1 cool and smoke4 ,the dipping was not really essential--still it kept the sausage a little fresher4 ,latterly ,i have been wondering if paraffin had been known then whether or not it would have served better than grease4 ,illustration3 ,hams and ,other ,hams ,the proper boiling of a proper ham reaches the level of high art4 ,proper boiling makes any sound ham tolerable eating2 conversely a crass and hasty cook can spoil utterly this crowning mercy of the smokehouse4 ,yet proper cooking is not a recondite process1 nor one beyond the simplest intelligence4 ,it means first and most1 pains and patience1 with somewhat of foresight1 and something more of judgment4 ,cut off the hock1 but not too high--barely the slender shankbone4 ,then go all over the ham with a dull knife1 scraping off every bit of removable grease or soilure4 ,wipe afterward with a coarse1 damp cloth1 then lay in a dishpan and cover an inch deep with cold water4 ,if the water is very hard soften by adding a tiny pinch of baking soda4 ,leave in soak all night4 ,in the morning wash well all over1 using your coarse cloth1 and a little scouring soap1 then rinse well in tepid water1 followed by a second rinsing in cold water1 drain1 and wipe dry4 ,a flat-bottomed boiler is best--with one rounding1 there is greater risk of scorching4 ,set a rack on the bottom else an old dish or earthen pieplate1 pour in an inch of water1 set over the fire1 lay the ham upon the rack1 skin side down1 and fill up with cold water till it stands two inches above the meat4 ,take care in adding the water not to dislodge the ham from the rack4 ,bring the water to a boil1 throw in a pint of cold water and skim the boiler very clean1 going over it twice or three times4 ,after the last skimming add half a dozen whole cloves1 a dozen whole alspice1 a pod of red pepper1 a few whole grains of black pepper1 and if you like1 a young onion or a stalk of celery4 ,personally ,i do not like either onion or celery--moreover they taint the fat one may save from the pot4 ,let the water boil hard for half a minute1 no longer1 then slack heat till it barely simmers4 ,keep it simmering1 filling up the pot as the water in it boils away1 until the ham is tender throughout4 ,the time depends on several things--the hardness and age of the ham1 weight1 curing4 ,fifteen minutes to the pound1 reckoned from the beginning of simmering1 is the standard allowance4 ,i have no hard and fast rule--my hams boil always until the fork pierces them readily1 and the hip-bone stands clear of flesh4 ,a big ham1 fifteen to twenty pounds weight1 had better be left in the water overnight4 ,a smaller one1 say of ten pounds weight1 should remain only until thoroughly cold4 ,take up carefully when cold1 let drain twenty minutes1 lying flesh side up in a flat dish1 then trim off the under side and edges neatly1 removing rusty fat1 strings1 etc41 and cutting through the skin at the hock end4 ,turn over and remove the skin--taking care not to tear away too much fat with it4 ,remove the ham to a clean1 deep dish1 or bowl--the closer fitting the better1 then pour around it either sound claret1 or sweet cider1 till it stands half way up the sides4 ,add a little tabasco or ,worcester to the liquor1 if high flavors are approved4 ,then stick whole cloves in a lozenge pattern all over the fat1 sprinkle on thickly red and black pepper1 and last of all1 sugar--brown sugar if to be had1 but white will do4 ,leave standing several hours1 basting once or twice with the liquor in the bowl4 ,take out1 set on a rack in an agate pan1 pour the liquor underneath1 and bake slowly one to two hours1 according to size4 ,baste every fifteen minutes1 adding water as the liquor cooks away4 ,beware scorching--the ham should be a beautiful speckly dark brown all over4 ,let cool uncovered1 and keep cool1 but not on ice until eaten4 ,drop a lump of ice in the boiling liquor unless the weather is cold--then set it outside4 ,as soon as the fat on top hardens take it off1 boil it fifteen minutes in clear water1 chill1 skim off1 and clarify by frying slices of raw potato in it4 ,the spices will have sunk to the bottom1 and there will be no trace of their flavor in the fat4 ,any boiling vegetable--cabbage1 string beans1 navy beans1 greens in general--may be cooked to advantage in the liquor4 ,it also serves as an excellent foundation for pea soup4 ,drain it off from the sediment1 reduce a trifle by quick boiling1 then add the other things4 ,dumplings of sound cornmeal1 wet up stiff1 shaped the size of an egg1 and dropped in the boiling liquor1 furnish a luncheon dish cheap and appetizing4 ,fried ham as ,mammy made it is mostly a fragrant memory--only plutocrats dare indulge in it these days4 ,she cut thin slices from the juicy1 thick part of the ham1 using a very sharp1 clean knife4 ,then she trimmed away the skin1 and laid the slices in a clean1 hot skillet--but not too hot4 ,in about a minute she flipped them over delicately1 so as to sear the other side4 ,when enough fat had been tried out to bubble a bit1 she turned them again1 then set the skillet off1 deadened the coals beneath it a little--put it back1 and let the ham cook until tender through and through4 ,she never washed the slices nor even wiped them with damp cloths4 ,there was no need--her hands and knife were as clean as could be4 ,washing and wiping spoiled the flavor1 she said4 ,i agree with her4 ,after the ham was taken up1 she poured in milk1 half cream1 shook it well about in the hissing hot fat until it had taken up all the delicious brown essence caked on the skillet bottom4 ,this milk gravy was poured over the slices in the platter4 ,a practice ,i have never followed--my gravy is made with water rather than milk1 and served separately4 ,invalids and gourmets may be indulged with boiled ham1 broiled over live coals4 ,slice very thin1 lay for half a minute upon a shovel of glowing fresh coals1 take up in a very hot dish1 butter liberally1 dust with pepper and serve very hot4 ,to frizzle ham slice as thin as possible in tiny bits1 and toss the bits till curly-crisp in blazing hot butter4 ,excellent as an appetizer or to raise a thirst4 ,for ham and eggs slice and fry as directed1 take up1 break fresh eggs separately each in a saucer1 and slip them into the fat when it is bubbling hot4 ,dip hot fat over them to cook the upper side--take up with a cake turner1 and arrange prettily as a border around the ham4 ,sprigs of watercress outside add to the appetizing effect4 ,serve with hot biscuit1 or waffles or muffins1 and strong1 clear coffee4 ,tart apples cored but not peeled sliced in rings and fried in hot fat1 drained out and sprinkled lightly with sugar1 add to the charm of even the finest ham4 ,so does hominy1 the full-grained sort1 boiled tender beforehand1 and fried till there is a thick1 brown crust all over the skillet bottom4 ,the secret of these as of all other fryings1 is to have grease enough1 make it hot enough to crisp whatever goes into it instantly1 then to watch so there shall be no scorching1 and take out what is fried as soon as done1 draining well4 ,among the paradoxes of cookery is this--frying with scant grease makes greasy eating1 whereas frying in deep fat1 sufficiently hot1 makes the reverse4 ,sweet potatoes1 peeled and sliced1 deserve frying in ham fat4 ,well drained1 dusted with salt1 pepper1 and sugar1 they are delicious1 also most digestible4 ,frying is indeed the method of cookery most misprised through its abuse4 ,in capable hands it achieves results no-otherwise attainable4 ,a perfect mutton ham is a matter of grace no less premeditation4 ,it must be cut from a wether at least four years old1 grass fed1 grain finished1 neither too fat1 nor too lean1 scientifically butchered in clear1 frosty1 but not freezing weather1 and hung unsalted in clean1 cold air for a matter of three days4 ,saw off shank and hip bones neatly1 and cut the meat smooth1 removing any tags and jags1 then pack down in an agate or clean wooden vessel that has been scalded1 then chilled4 ,half cover with a marinade thus proportioned4 ,one pint pickling salt to one gallon cold water1 boil and skim clean1 then add one pint vinegar1 a dozen each of whole cloves1 allspice and pepper corns1 a pod of red pepper1 a teaspoon of powdered saltpeter1 and a small cup of oil4 ,simmer for half an hour1 and cool before pouring on the meat4 ,let it lie in the liquor a week1 turning it twice daily4 ,take from marinade1 wipe1 and lay in air1 return the marinade to the fire1 boil up1 skim well1 then add enough plain brine to fully cover the hams1 skim again1 cool and pour over1 first scalding out the containing vessel4 ,let stand a week longer1 then drain well1 wipe with a damp cloth1 rub over outside with a mixture of salt1 moist sugar1 and ground black pepper1 and hang in a cool1 airy place where the hams can be lightly smoked for a fortnight4 ,winter-curing1 or late fall1 alone is possible to the average householder4 ,after smoking1 wrap in waxed paper1 and canvas the same as other hams4 ,cook the same as venison1 which mutton thus cured much resembles4 ,slice and broil1 serving with butter and very sour jelly1 else boil whole in very little water until tender1 glazing with tart jelly1 and crisping in the oven after draining and cooling4 ,or soak two hours in cold water1 then cover completely with an inch-thick crust of flour and water mixed stiff1 and bake in a slow oven four to five hours4 ,serve always with very piquant sauce1 and sharp pickle1 or highly spiced catsups4 ,make jelly from wild grapes1 wild plums1 green grapes1 green gooseberries or crab apples1 using half the usual amount of sugar1 especially for such meat4 ,melt half a glass of such jelly with a tablespoon of boiling water4 ,add black pepper1 paprika1 a dash of tabasco1 and the strained juice of a lemon1 add gradually a teaspoon of dry mustard4 ,cook over hot water until well mixed and smooth1 and keep hot until served4 ,beef hams are troublesome--but worth the trouble4 ,take them from small but well fatted animals1 cut off the shank1 also part of the top round4 ,rub over very scantly with powdered saltpeter1 mixed well through moist sugar1 then lay down in salt for a fortnight1 else cover with brine made thus4 ,pint pickling salt to the gallon of cold water1 teaspoon sugar1 and pinch of whole cloves4 ,boil and skim4 ,pour cold over the hams in a clean barrel4 ,let stand a fortnight1 take out1 drain and wipe1 rub over with dry salt1 and hang high in cold air4 ,smoke lightly after three days4 ,keep smoking1 but not too much1 for a month4 ,cover all over with ground black pepper1 mixed to a paste with molasses1 canvas and leave hanging4 ,slice and broil1 else chip and serve raw4 ,frizzling is possible but a waste of ,god's good mercies4 ,properly cured meat is salt but not too salt1 of a deep blackish-red1 and when sliced thin1 partly translucent1 also of an indescribable savoriness4 ,cut as nearly as possible1 across the grain4 ,do not undertake to make beef hams save in the late fall1 so there may be cold weather for the curing4 ,the meat must be chilled through before salt touches it1 but freezing is very detrimental4 ,frozen meat does not absorb the salt1 sugar1 etc41 essential to proper curing4 ,by time it thaws so absorption becomes possible1 there may have been changes such as take place in cold storage1 unfitting it for food4 ,if the beef ham is thick it may need to lie a month in salt or in brine4 ,here as elsewhere1 the element of judgment comes into play4 ,if rabbits are very plenty and very fat1 put down a jar of hindquarters in marinade for three days1 then wipe1 and hang in a cold1 dry place4 ,a rabbit ought to be dressed before it is cold--thus it escapes the strong flavor which makes market rabbits often unendurable4 ,chill but do not freeze after dressing4 ,a light smoking does not hurt the quarters1 which should be left double1 with the thick loin between4 ,soak two hours before cooking1 and smother with plenty of butter1 black and red pepper and a dash of pepper vinegar4 ,an excellent breakfast or luncheon relish4 ,to cook a fresh ham properly1 choose one weighing ten pounds or less1 scrape and wash clean1 score the skin1 all over1 then season well with salt1 sugar1 black and red pepper1 and dot with tabasco on top4 ,set on a rack in a deep pan1 pour boiling water underneath to barely touch the meat1 cover close1 and bake in a hot oven for two hours1 filling up the water in the pan as it bakes away4 ,uncover1 and cook for half an hour longer1 slacking heat one half1 and basting the meat with the liquor in the pan4 ,if approved add a cup of cider or sound claret to the basting liquor4 ,leave unbasted for ten minutes before taking up1 so the skin may be properly crisp4 ,illustration3 ,for ,thirsty ,souls ,grandmother's ,cherry ,bounce3 ,rinse a clean1 empty whiskey barrel well with cold water1 drain1 and fill with very ripe ,morello cherries1 mixed with black wild cherries4 ,one gallon wild cherries to five of ,morellos is about the proper proportion4 ,strew scantly through the cherries1 blade mace1 whole cloves1 allspice1 a very little bruised ginger1 and grated nutmeg4 ,add to a full barrel of fruit twenty pounds of sugar--or in the proportion of half a pound to the gallon of fruit4 ,cover the fruit an inch deep with good corn whiskey1 the older and milder the better4 ,leave out the bung but cover the opening with lawn4 ,let stand six months undisturbed in a dry1 airy place1 rather warm4 ,rack off into a clean barrel1 let stand six months longer1 then bottle or put in demijohns4 ,this improves greatly with age up to the fifth year--after that the change is unappreciable4 ,grape ,cider3 ,fill a clean1 tight1 well-scalded barrel with ripe wild grapes picked from their stems4 ,add spices if you like1 but they can be left out4 ,fill the vessel with new cider1 the sweeter the better4 ,there should be room left to ferment4 ,cover the bung-hole with thin cloth and let stand in dry air four to six months4 ,rack off and bottle4 ,this also improves with age4 ,it is a drink to be used with caution--mild as ,may in the mouth1 but heady1 and overcoming1 especially to those unused to its seductions4 ,persimmon ,beer3 ,the poor relation of champagne--with the advantage that nobody is ever the worse for drinking it4 ,to make it1 take full-ripe persimmons1 the juicier the better1 free them of stalks and calyxes1 then mash thoroughly1 and add enough wheat bran or middlings to make a stiffish dough4 ,form the dough into thin1 flat cakes1 which bake crisp in a slow oven4 ,when cold break them up in a clean barrel1 and fill it with filtered rainwater4 ,a bushel of persimmons before mashing will make a barrel of beer4 ,set the barrel upright1 covered with a thin cloth1 in a warm1 dry place1 free of taints4 ,let stand until the beer works--the persimmon cakes will rise and stand in a foamy mass on top4 ,after three to four weeks1 either move the barrel to a cold place1 or rack off the beer into bottles or demijohns1 tieing down the corks1 and keeping the bottled stuff very cool4 ,the more meaty and flavorous the persimmons1 the richer will be the beer4 ,beware of putting in fruit that has not felt the touch of frost1 so retains a rough tang4 ,a very little of it will spoil a whole brewing of beer4 ,if the beer is left standing in the barrel a wooden cover should be laid over the cloth1 after it is done working4 ,fermentation can be hastened by putting in with the persimmon cakes a slice of toast dipped in quick yeast4 ,but if the temperature is right1 the beer will ferment itself4 ,egg ,nogg3 ,have all ingredients1 eggs1 sugar1 brandy1 and whiskey1 thoroughly chilled before beginning1 and work very1 very quickly4 ,beat the yolks of eighteen eggs very light with six cups of granulated sugar1 added a cup at a time4 ,when frothy and pale yellow1 beat in gradually and alternately a glassful at a time1 a quart of mellow old whiskey1 and a quart of real ,french brandy4 ,whip hard1 then add the whites of the eggs beaten till they stick to the dish4 ,grate nutmeg over the top1 and rub the rims of the serving glasses with lemon or orange rind cut into the fruit4 ,the glasses should be ice-cold1 also the spoons4 ,fill carefully so as not to slop the sides1 and serve at once4 ,if wanted for an early morning ,christmas celebration1 beat up yolks and sugar the night before1 stand on ice along with the liquor1 and keep the unbeaten whites likewise very cold4 ,at morning freshen the yolks a little1 then add the liquor1 and at last the whites newly frothed4 ,this is the only simon-pure ,christmas egg nogg4 ,those who put into it milk1 cream1 what not1 especially rum1 defile one of the finest among ,christmas delights4 ,white ,egg ,nogg3 ,for invalids1 especially fever patients4 ,whip the white of a new laid egg as stiff as possible with the least suspicion of salt4 ,add to it three heaping spoonfuls of sterilized cream whipped light1 beat in two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 then add a gill of the best ,french brandy4 ,a variant is to omit the sugar and mix with the frothed egg and cream more than a gill of vermouth1 using ,french or ,italian1 according to taste4 ,apple ,toddy3 ,wash and core1 but do not peel1 six large1 fair apples1 bake1 covered1 until tender through and through1 put into an earthen bowl and strew with cloves1 mace1 and bruised ginger1 also six lumps of ,domino sugar for each apple4 ,pour over a quart of full-boiling water1 let stand covered fifteen minutes in a warm place4 ,then add a quart of mellow whiskey1 leave standing ten minutes longer1 and keep warm4 ,serve in big deep goblets1 putting an apple or half of one in the bottom of each1 and filling with the liquor4 ,grate nutmeg on top just at the minute of serving4 ,hail ,storm3 ,mix equal quantities of clear ice1 broken small1 and the best lump sugar4 ,cover the mixture fully with good brandy1 put in a shaker1 shake hard five minutes1 then pour into glasses1 and serve with a fresh mint leaf floating on top4 ,mint ,julep3 ,this requires the best of everything if you would have it in perfection4 ,especially the mint and the whiskey or brandy4 ,choose tender1 quick-grown mint1 leafy1 not long-stalked and coarse1 wash it very clean1 taking care not to bruise it in the least1 and lay in a clean cloth upon ice4 ,chill the spirits likewise4 ,put the sugar and water in a clean fruit jar1 and set on ice4 ,do this at least six hours before serving so the sugar shall be fully dissolved4 ,four lumps to the large goblet is about right--with half a gobletful of fresh cold water4 ,at serving time1 rub a zest of lemon around the rim of each goblet--the goblets must be well chilled--then half fill with the dissolved sugar1 add a tablespoonful of cracked ice1 and stand sprigs of mint thickly all around the rim4 ,set the goblets in the tray1 then fill up with whiskey or brandy or both1 mixed--the mixture is best with brands that blend smoothly4 ,drop in the middle a fresh ripe strawberry1 or cherry1 or slice of red peach1 and serve at once4 ,fruit can be left out without harm to flavor--it is mainly for the satisfaction of the eye4 ,but never by any chance bruise the mint--it will give an acrid flavor most tolerable and not to be endured4 ,to get the real old-time effect1 serve with spoons in the goblets rather than straws4 ,in dipping and sipping more of the mint-essence comes out--beside the clinking of the spoons is nearly as refreshing as the tinkle of the ice4 ,lemon ,punch3 ,bring a gallon of fresh water to a bubbling boil in a wide kettle1 and as it strikes full boil throw into it a tablespoonful of tea--whatever brand you like best4 ,let boil one minute--no more1 no less1 then strain1 boiling hot1 upon the juice and thin yellow peel of twelve large or eighteen small lemons1 along with two pounds of lump sugar4 ,stir hard until the sugar is dissolved1 then add a pint of rum4 ,stand on ice twelve to twenty-four hours to blend and ripen4 ,put a small block of clear ice in the punch bowl1 pour in the punch1 then add to it either ,maraschino cherries1 or hulled small ripe strawberries1 or pineapple or bananas1 peeled and cut in tiny dice--or a mixture of all these4 ,serve in chilled punch cups1 with after-dinner coffee spoons for the fruit4 ,the fruit can be left out1 and the punch served with sandwiches the same as iced tea4 ,a wineglass of yellow chartreuse1 added just after the rum1 is to many palates an improvement4 ,so is a very little peach or apricot brandy4 ,punch la ,ruffle ,shirts3 ,this recipe comes down from the epoch of knee buckles and ruffled shirts1 and is warranted to more than hold its own with any other--even the so-famous ,artillery punch1 beloved of army and navy4 ,to make it1 scrub clean and pare thinly the yellow peel of two dozen oranges and one dozen lemons4 ,put the pared peel in a deep glass pitcher and cover it with one quart of brandy1 one quart of old whiskey1 one generous pint of ,jamaica rum1 one tumbler of cherry bounce1 one tumbler of peach liqueur1 or else a tumbler of peach and honey1 ,cover with cloth and let stand three days off ice to blend and ripen4 ,meantime squeeze and strain the juice of the oranges and lemons upon four pounds of best lump sugar1 shred a large1 very ripe pineapple fine and put it with another pound of sugar in a separate vessel4 ,hull half a gallon of ripe strawberries1 cover them liberally with sugar and let stand to extract the juice4 ,lacking strawberries1 use ripe peaches1 or blackberries or even seeded cherries4 ,keep the fruit and sugar cool1 but not too cold--just so it will not sour4 ,upon the third morning strain the juice of all fruits together1 and mix thoroughly4 ,next make a gallon of weak green tea1 strain it boiling hot upon the liquor and the yellow peel1 stir well1 then mix in the fruit juices and sugar1 and let stand uncovered until cool4 ,chill thoroughly1 also chill the wine4 ,use whatever sort you prefer--claret1 sound and fruity1 is good1 so is almost any homemade wine of the first class4 ,american champagne pleases some palates4 ,but ,i advise rather claret1 or good homemade grape wine4 ,put into the punch bowl a block of clear ice1 add equal measures of the mixture and the wine4 ,let stand half an hour before serving4 ,put in at the very last vichy1 ice-cold4 ,thin strips of fresh cucumber peel add a trifle to flavor and more to looks4 ,the wine and mixture can be poured together into demijohns and kept for months1 provided they are kept cool4 ,since the making is rather troublesome it is worth while to make the full quantity at once and keep it on hand for emergencies4 ,commercial liqueurs can take the place of the homemade ones here set forth4 ,the result may not be quite so distinctive1 but will not be disappointing4 ,dry sherry is a good substitute for cherry bounce1 likewise apricot brandy1 while vermouth or chartreuse will answer for peach liqueur1 which is unlikely to be in hand unless you are a very old-fashioned housekeeper4 ,peach ,liqueur3 ,peel a peck of very ripe1 very juicy peaches1 cut from the seed1 weigh1 and pack down in earthen or agate ware with their own weight in granulated sugar4 ,crack the seeds1 take out the kernels1 blanche the same as almonds1 and put to soak in a quart of brandy4 ,let stand in sunshine to extract the flavor1 a full day4 ,let the fruit and sugar stand twenty-four hours1 then put over fire in a preserving kettle and simmer very slowly until the fruit is in rags1 adding now and then enough boiling water to make up for what cooks out4 ,if spices are approved1 simmer with the fruit1 a pinch of blade mace1 some whole cloves and half a dozen black pepper corns4 ,this is optional4 ,strain without pressing to avoid cloudiness1 and mix the juice while still very hot with the brandy and soaked kernels4 ,add brandy and kernels1 also a quart of whiskey--there should be a gallon of the fruit juice4 ,stir hard so as to blend well4 ,let cool1 and bottle or put in demijohns1 taking care to apportion the kernels equally4 ,they will sink to the bottom1 but the liqueur will fatten on them1 getting thereby a delicate almond fragrance and flavor4 ,strawberry ,liqueur3 ,wash1 hull and mash two gallons of very ripe strawberries1 put over the fire1 bring to a quick boil1 skim clean1 and simmer for five minutes4 ,throw in a pint of boiling water1 and strain as for jelly4 ,measure the juice--for each pint take a pound of sugar1 return to the kettle1 simmer fifteen minutes1 skimming clean the while1 then take from the fire1 measure1 and to each quart add a pint of good whiskey1 or whiskey and brandy mixed4 ,bottle while still hot1 and seal4 ,small bottles are best4 ,by adding spices to taste while the juice is simmering you turn the liqueur into strawberry cordial4 ,blackberry ,cordial3 ,pick over1 wash and drain well half a bushel of very ripe1 but sound berries4 ,mash1 add a very little cold water1 and simmer for half an hour1 then strain and measure the juice4 ,put a pound of sugar to each pint1 and to each gallon1 a teaspoon of cloves1 the same of allspice1 a race of ginger well bruised1 a tiny pod of ,cayenne pepper1 and a half dozen black pepper corns4 ,tie the spices loosely in very thin muslin so they may not be skimmed off4 ,skim away all froth1 and cook for an hour1 keeping the kettle barely boiling4 ,it should reduce about one-half4 ,take from the fire and add spirits1 either whiskey or brandy1 in the proportion of one to two--two pints cordial to one of liquor4 ,let cool uncovered1 bottle and cork tight--sealing is unnecessary4 ,excellent for convalescents1 especially children4 ,to make it almost a specific for bowel troubles1 dig up1 and wash clean1 dewberry roots1 cut short1 and boil in clear water1 making a very strong decoction4 ,add this to the cordial while still boiling1 in proportion of one to four4 ,then mix in the spirits4 ,a quart of cordial can be thus treated medicinally1 and the rest kept for ordinary uses4 ,blackberry ,wine3 ,pick1 wash1 and mash thoroughly1 sound ripe berries1 pour upon each gallon a gallon of freshly-boiling water1 and let stand twenty-four hours4 ,strain1 measure juice1 allow three and one-half pounds sugar to each gallon of it4 ,put into clean cask or jugs1 do not fill1 but leave room for fermentation4 ,cover mouth or bung-hole with thin cloth1 and let stand in clean warm air for two months4 ,rack off into clean vessels1 throwing away the lees1 and cork or cover close4 ,fit for use in another month4 ,improves with age up to a year4 ,strawberry ,wine3 ,mash thoroughly clean1 hulled1 very ripe berries1 add equal bulk of boiling water1 let stand six hours1 then strain4 ,put the strained juice in a preserving kettle with two and a half pounds of sugar to each gallon4 ,bring to a boil1 skim clean1 then pour into clean vessels1 close mouths with thin cloth1 and let stand until fermentation ceases4 ,in a wet season the berries are likely to be so juicy1 less water is required--or more sugar necessary4 ,gooseberry ,wine3 ,wash and drain dead-ripe gooseberries1 mash them thoroughly with a wooden pestle1 and add their own bulk of boiling water4 ,let stand thirty-six hours unless the weather is very warm--then twenty-four will be long enough4 ,press out all the juice1 even though it runs muddy4 ,measure1 and to each gallon add three pounds down-weight1 of the best lump sugar4 ,stir well1 repeating every day for a week1 then cover with lawn and let stand till fermentation ceases4 ,cover tight then and leave standing six weeks longer1 so the wine may fatten on the lees4 ,back off carefully1 filtering the muddy part at the bottom through several thicknesses of cheese cloth4 ,put in a clean vessel for two months longer1 then bottle and seal4 ,if the bottles are laid on the side1 and the wine carefully decanted it will show a bright golden yellow with much the translucence of topaz4 ,it reaches perfection at a year4 ,being rather heavy it is improved to many palates by adding ice-cold vichy after it is in the glasses4 ,grape ,wine3 ,pick from stems1 wash1 drain1 and mash thoroughly1 ripe sound grapes4 ,add measure for measure of full-boiling water1 and let stand twelve hours4 ,if very deep color is desired1 and the grapes are black1 let stand twenty-four4 ,strain1 measure juice1 add to each gallon three pounds of sugar1 stir till dissolved1 then put in a clean vessel1 filling it only three-parts1 cover the mouth with lawn1 and let stand in clean warm air until fermentation ceases4 ,close tight then1 and let stand a month longer1 then rack off1 filter last runnings through triple cheese cloth1 bottle and cork tight4 ,keep where it is dark and warm1 rather than cool1 but away from any sort of taints4 ,muscadine ,wine3 ,troublesome1 but worth the trouble4 ,wash dead-ripe muscadines1 and pop them one by one1 out of the skins4 ,throw away the skins1 after squeezing all juice from them--if the pulp stood with them their burning1 musky taste would ruin it4 ,cover it with half its bulk of boiling water4 ,let stand a day and night1 then strain1 and add to each gallon of juice three pounds of white rock-candy4 ,stir every day until the candy dissolves4 ,cover with cloth until it is through fermenting4 ,back off1 bottle immediately1 and seal1 or tie down the corks4 ,the wine in perfection is a pale pink1 very clear1 and of a peculiar but indescribably delicious flavor4 ,fruit ,vinegars3 ,any sort of acid fruit--as strawberries1 raspberries1 gooseberries1 currants1 black or red1 affords a refreshing drink4 ,pick1 wash1 put over the fire to scald--when it has boiled a minute or two add half as much cold water as fruit1 and bring again to a boil4 ,skim clean1 take from fire and let stand till next day4 ,strain1 then measure juice1 add two to three pounds sugar to the gallon1 according to tartness desired1 put over the fire1 and simmer for twenty minutes1 skimming clean4 ,boil in it spices most liked1 tied up in thin muslin4 ,if it seems watery1 boil another twenty minutes till the syrup shows rather rich1 then add1 after taking from the fire1 a quart of cider vinegar for each gallon of syrup1 mix well1 bottle while still hot in small bottles1 cork and seal4 ,mixed half and half with ice water1 or poured over finely broken ice1 or as a flavoring to tea1 hot or cold1 this is refreshing1 particularly in hot weather4 ,use in tea a spoonful to the cup or glass4 ,boiled ,cider3 ,reduce new sweet cider one-half by gentle boiling1 skimming it clean as it boils1 then bottle1 putting a clove or two1 a grain of alspice and a blade of mace in each bottle4 ,cork1 seal and keep in a cool place4 ,this is especially valuable for use in mincemeat1 or for flavoring sauces for nursery puddings4 ,a variant is to add sugar towards the last1 enough to make a thinnish syrup1 which is of itself a good sauce for simple desserts4 ,illustration3 ,paste1 ,pies1 ,puddings ,the ,philosophy of ,pie-,crust3 ,pie-crust perfection depends on several things--good flour1 good fat1 good handling1 most especially good baking4 ,a hot oven1 quick but not scorching1 expands the air betwixt layers of paste1 and pops open the flour-grains1 making them absorb the fat as it melts1 thereby growing crisp and relishful instead of hard and tough4 ,the lighter and drier the flour the better--in very damp weather it is best oven-dried1 then cooled before mixing4 ,shortening1 whether lard1 butter1 or clarified drippings1 should be very cold--unless your recipe demands that it be softened or melted4 ,milk or water used in mixing ought to be likewise well chilled1 unless the shortening is soft--in that case match its temperature4 ,the regular rule is half-pint ice water to the pound of flour1 using chilled shortening4 ,if the fat is semi-fluid the paste must be mixed softer1 using say1 three parts of a pint to the pound4 ,baking powder or soda and cream tartar1 or soda alone with sour cream or buttermilk for wetting1 makes crust light and short with less butter1 therefore is an economy4 ,genuine puff paste is requisite for the finest tarts1 pies1 etc41 etc41 but light short crust answers admirably for most things4 ,sift flour twice or even thrice for any sort of paste4 ,sift soda or baking powder well through it1 but not salt4 ,make the salt fine1 drop in the bottom of the mixing bowl1 before the last sifting1 and mix lightly through the flour before adding the shortening4 ,rub in shortening very lightly1 using only the finger-tips--the palms melt or soften it4 ,add milk or water1 a little at a time1 mixing it in with a broad-bladed knife rather than the hands4 ,mix lightly--so the paste barely sticks together4 ,put in first one-third of the shortening--this1 of course1 for puff paste4 ,half a pound of butter or lard to the pound of flour makes a very good paste1 but to have it in full richness1 use three-quarters of a pound4 ,wash butter well to remove the salt1 and squeeze out water by wringing it in a well-floured cloth4 ,if there is a strong taste1 or any trace of rancidity1 wash well1 kneading through and through1 in sweet milk1 then rinse out the milk with cold water to which a little borax has been added4 ,rinse again in clear cold water--this should remove ill-flavor without injury to anybody's stomach4 ,but be very sure the last rinsing is thorough--borax1 though wholly harmless1 adds nothing to digestibility4 ,the end of the repeated rollings out and foldings demanded by real puff paste is to enclose between the layers of paste as much air as possible4 ,hence the chillings between rollings4 ,hence also the need of pinching edges well together after foldings1 and rolling always from you1 never back and forth4 ,roll out paste into a long narrow strip after the first mixing1 divide the remaining shortening into three equal portions1 keep very cold1 and as needed cut into small bits1 which spread evenly on top of the rolled paste1 which must be lightly dredged with flour4 ,fold in three evenly1 one thickness on another1 turn so the folded edges may be to right and left while rolling1 pinch the other edges well together and roll again into a long strip1 moving the rolling-pin always from you4 ,repeat until all the butter is used1 then set on ice for an hour to harden4 ,in baking beware opening the oven door until the paste has risen fully and becomes slightly crusted over4 ,baking powder crust must not stand--the gas which aerates it begins forming and escaping the minute it is wet up4 ,it also requires a hot oven and delicate handling4 ,half a pound of shortening and a teaspoon of baking powder1 to the pound of flour1 mixed stiff or soft1 according to the consistency of the fat1 properly handled and baked1 make crust good enough for anybody4 ,french ,puff ,paste3 ,this is like the famous little girl--either very good indeed or horrid4 ,therefore beware undertaking it until you have experience or the confidence of absolute ignorance for your help4 ,either may take you on to success--when half-knowledge or half-confidence will spell disaster4 ,you need for it1 two pounds1 thrice sifted flour1 two pounds well-washed and very cold butter1 four egg-yolks well chilled1 and half a pint1 more or less1 of ice water1 also a saltspoon of fine salt4 ,rub four ounces of butter lightly into the flour1 shape the rest into a flattish oblong and set on ice4 ,wet the flour with the egg-yolks and water1 adding them alternately1 work smooth1 handling as lightly as possible1 then roll out half an inch thick1 dredge lightly with flour1 lay on the ball of cold butter1 fold paste over it smoothly1 flatten lightly with strokes of the rolling-pin1 then roll out as thin as possible without making the butter break through4 ,fold again in three1 roll again1 as thin as you can4 ,repeat folding and rolling1 then set on ice half an hour1 folding in three4 ,roll and fold twice again1 chill again for twenty minutes1 then give two more rolls and foldings4 ,chill if possible before using4 ,if all things have worked well you will have crust that is an experience4 ,every ,day ,pie ,crust3 ,one pound flour1 six ounces shortening--lard or clarified dripping1 pinch salt1 half-pint ice water4 ,mix flour1 salt and water to a smooth dough1 using a broad knife1 roll out thin1 spread with a third of the fat1 fold in three1 roll out again1 add another third of fat1 roll1 add the last fat1 roll again1 fold and chill for ten minutes before using4 ,cobblers3 ,make from any sort of fruit in season--peaches1 apples1 cherries1 plums or berries4 ,green gooseberries are inadvisable1 through being too tart and too tedious4 ,stone cherries1 pare peaches or apples and slice thin1 halve plums if big enough1 and remove stones--if not1 wash1 drain well1 and use whole4 ,line a skillet or deep pie pan--it must be three inches deep at least1 liberally with short crust1 rolled rather more than a quarter-inch thick4 ,fit well1 then prick all over with a blunt fork4 ,fill with the prepared fruit1 put on an upper crust a quarter-inch thick and plenty big enough1 barely press the crust edges together1 prick well with a fork all over the top1 and cook in a hot oven half to three-quarters of an hour1 according to size4 ,take up1 remove top crust1 lay it inverted upon another plate1 sweeten the hot fruit liberally1 adding if you like1 a spoonful of brandy1 adding also a good lump of the best butter4 ,mix well through the fruit1 then dip out enough of it to make a thick layer over the top crust4 ,grate nutmeg over apple pies1 or strew on a little powdered cinnamon4 ,a few blades of mace baked with the fruit accent the apple flavor beautifully4 ,cherries take kindly to brandy1 but require less butter than either peaches or apples4 ,give plums plenty of sugar with something over for the stones4 ,cook a few stones with them for flavor1 even if you take away the bulk4 ,do the same with cherries1 using1 say1 a dozen pits to the pie4 ,serve cobbler hot or cold4 ,if hot1 serve with it hard brandy sauce1 made by creaming together a cup of sugar1 a tablespoonful of butter1 then working in two tablespoonfuls of brandy or good whiskey4 ,right here is perhaps the place to say once for all1 good whiskey is far and away better in anything than poor brandy4 ,thick sweet cream whipped or plain1 sets off cold cobbler wonderfully to the average palate4 ,fried ,pies3 ,to be perfect these must be made of sun-dried peaches1 very bright and sweet1 but any sort of sound dried fruit will serve at a pinch4 ,soak overnight after washing in three waters1 simmer five hours in the soaking water1 with a plate to hold the fruit under1 mash and sweeten while hot1 adding spices to taste--cinnamon1 nutmeg and grated lemon peel for apples1 cloves and ginger--a bare zest--for peaches or apricots4 ,roll out short paste into rounds the size of a small plate1 cover one-half with the fruit1 fold over the empty half1 pinch well together around the edges1 and fry in deep fat1 blazing hot1 to a rich quick brown on both sides4 ,drain on paper napkins1 sprinkling lightly with sugar4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,most excellent for impromptu luncheons or very late suppers--withal wholesome4 ,a famous doctor said often of them1 ,you would be only the better for eating an acre of them4 ,green ,apple ,pie3 ,take apples a little bigger than the thumb's end1 cut off stalks and nibs1 and slice crosswise in three1 dropping them in water as sliced to save discoloration4 ,make a rich syrup--three cups sugar1 one cup water1 to four cups sliced fruit4 ,boil and skim1 throw in the apples1 with a blade or so of mace1 and cook quickly until preserved through4 ,either bake between crust in the common way1 or bake crust crisp after pricking well1 and spread with the preserved fruit4 ,else make into small turnovers1 but bake instead of frying them--and be sure the oven is hot enough to brown1 but not to burn4 ,or you may make the green apples into shortcake1 putting fruit only between the layers of crust1 and serving with rich sauce or sweetened cream4 ,lemon ,custard3 7,m4 ,l4 ,williams47 ,separate and beat very light1 the yolks and whites of six eggs4 ,beat into the yolks very smoothly one pound of sugar1 then half a pound of creamed butter4 ,mix well1 then add the beaten whites1 followed by the strained juice and grated yellow peel of two large or three small lemons4 ,beat five minutes longer1 pour into pans lined with puff paste1 pop into a hot oven and bake to a bright brown4 ,meringue can be added but is not necessary save for ornament4 ,cream ,pie3 7,m4 ,l4 ,williams47 ,beat three eggs very light with a heaping cup of sugar1 add two cups sifted flour1 mix smooth1 then put in half a cup of rich sour cream with half-teaspoon soda dissolved in it4 ,mix1 put instantly into shallow pans1 bake in a quick oven and serve hot with or without sauce4 ,damson and ,banana ,tart3 7,m4 ,w4 ,watkins47 ,an heirloom in the relator's family1 coming down from ,english forebears4 ,line an agate or earthen pie dish two to three inches deep1 with very good crust1 rolled thin1 but not stretched nor dragged4 ,cover it with bananas1 sliced thin1 lengthwise1 strew over three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and a pinch of grated lemon peel4 ,sprinkle with a liqueur glass of rum or brandy or whiskey1 then put in a layer of preserved plums--damsons are best--along with their juice4 ,if there is room repeat the layers--bananas and plums and seasoning4 ,cover with a crust rolled fairly thin1 prick and bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderately quick oven4 ,serve either hot or cold1 preferably hot1 with this sauce4 ,one egg beaten very light1 with a cupful of cream1 a wineglass of rum1 brandy or sherry1 and a larger glass of preserve syrup4 ,mix over hot water1 stirring hard all the time till it begins to thicken4 ,it must not get too thick4 ,amber ,pie3 7,mrs4 ,j4 ,r4 ,oldham47 ,beat yolks of four eggs very light1 with two heaping cups sugar1 large spoonful melted butter1 rounding teaspoon sifted flour1 cup buttermilk1 cup seeded raisins1 teaspoon cinnamon1 pinch each of cloves1 alspice and nutmeg1 two whites of egg beaten very stiff4 ,half bake crust1 then pour in batter and cook slowly until done4 ,cover with meringue made by beating two egg-whites with two teaspoons cold water1 a few grains of salt1 and one cup sugar4 ,add sugar gradually after eggs are very light4 ,use at once--it will fall by standing4 ,let the meringue barely color in the oven4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,jelly ,pie3 7,louise ,williams47 ,beat the yolks of four eggs very light1 with a cup of sugar1 three-quarters cup creamed butter1 and a glass of jelly1 the tarter the better4 ,add a tablespoonful vanilla and a dessert-spoonful of sifted cornmeal1 then the whites of eggs beaten very stiff4 ,bake in crusts--this makes two fat pies4 ,meringue is optional--and unnecessary4 ,cheese ,cakes3 ,beat until very light the yolks of twelve eggs with a pound of sugar1 add to them a tablespoonful cornstarch1 then three-quarters of a pound of butter1 washed and creamed4 ,add also the strained juice of two lemons1 a teaspoonful lemon essence and a teaspoonful vanilla4 ,set over boiling water and stir until all ingredients blend--only thus can you dissolve granulated sugar1 which is best to use1 lacking the old-fashioned live open-kettle brown4 ,keep over the hot water1 stirring well together as you fill the tart shells4 ,they must be lined with real puff paste1 rolled very thin1 and nicely fitted4 ,set in broad shallow pans1 after filling with the batter and bake in a quick1 but not scorching oven4 ,a blanched almond1 or bit of citron1 or half a pecan or walnut meat1 may be put in each shell before filling4 ,i prefer though to add such frills by help of the frosting4 ,to make it1 beat six egg-whites with a pinch of salt until they stick to the dish1 add to them a little at a time1 three cups granulated sugar boiled with a cup and a half of water1 till it spins a thread4 ,keep the syrup boiling while adding it4 ,when it is all in1 set the pan of frosting over boiling water1 add six drops lemon juice and beat until stiff enough to hold shape4 ,it must not touch the water1 but have plenty of steam rising underneath4 ,frost the tarts rather thickly1 and stick either a shred of citron1 a quarter of ,maraschino cherry1 or half a nut in the middle4 ,if you like cocoanut flavor1 strew freshly grated cocoanut over while the frosting is soft--it ought to harden inside half an hour4 ,tiny pink or green comfits stuck in the middle1 or set in threes triangularly1 are very decorative4 ,indeed1 there is no limit but taste and invention to the manners of making beautiful these tarts4 ,i rather pride myself upon them1 since they have been enthusiastically praised by folk who have eaten all around the world1 and set above the best of ,french confections by a man ten years resident in ,paris1 whose wife is held to be the most skilled amateur cook in ,new ,york4 ,grated cocoanut or raw grated apple stirred into the batter before baking1 varies the cheese cakes--and to some palates improves it4 ,i myself find nothing quite to equal the cheese cake of my childhood--which had a full pound of butter to the pound of sugar1 and no frills of frosting1 though strips of citron were often latticed over the pans after the crust was in4 ,prick crust always very well before filling--thus the tarts will be shapely instead of caricatures4 ,sweet ,potato ,custard3 ,boil tender two large or four medium sweet potatoes1 peel1 free of strings1 and mash fine4 ,add to the pulp half a pound of creamed butter1 mix well1 then add gradually five cups sugar1 alternately with five whole eggs4 ,beat smooth1 add the juice of three lemons1 a tablespoonful lemon essence1 and a scant pint of very rich milk4 ,use less milk if the potatoes are very soft4 ,beat smooth and pour into pie pans lined with good crust4 ,bake brown in a quick oven1 but do not over-bake4 ,lest the proportion of sugar may seem excessive1 let it be said here that sweet potatoes require more sugar for sweetening than anything save crabapples or green gooseberries4 ,sweet ,potato ,pie3 ,line a deep pie pan with short crust rolled a quarter-inch thick1 fill it with raw sweet potatoes1 peeled and sliced thin4 ,add to them1 for a pan of medium size1 three cups sugar1 a cup of butter1 cut in bits1 mace1 cloves and nutmeg to taste1 half a cup cold water and half a cup good whiskey or sherry4 ,cover with a crust an eighth-inch thick1 prick well1 also cut a tiny cross in middle1 and bake in a hot1 but not scorching oven1 three-quarters of an hour--a full hour if the pan is large4 ,turning another pan1 fitting the rim over1 helps to make the baking sure and even4 ,remove the cover pan ten minutes before taking up4 ,serve hot4 ,this requires no sauce4 ,apple ,custard3 ,beat four eggs very light with three cups sugar1 one cup butter1 cup and a half rich milk--the richer the better4 ,stir in at the very last1 one quart grated apple1 flavor with nutmeg or vanilla1 and bake in crusts4 ,if wanted richer1 dot raisins seeded and soaked in whiskey1 or shred citron over the top before baking4 ,molasses ,pie3 7,m4 ,w4 ,watkins47 ,cream well together one large cup granulated sugar1 and one heaping tablespoonful of butter1 add when very light the well-beaten yolks of three eggs1 and a large cup of rich molasses4 ,flavor with one teaspoonful grated nutmeg1 then beat in1 at the very last1 the whites of the eggs frothed as stiff as possible4 ,bake in pans lined with rich crust until firm4 ,meringue can be added1 but the pies do not need it4 ,mystery ,pie3 7,louise ,williams47 ,beat separately very light1 the yolks and whites of four eggs4 ,beat with the yolks a cup and a half of sugar1 three heaping tablespoonfuls of butter1 two teaspoonfuls mixed spices1 either beaten or powdered fine1 one cup of tart dark jelly1 one cup blackberry jam1 and one cup sweet milk4 ,add last of all the egg-whites1 mix in well1 then pour in pans lined with rich paste1 and bake until firm4 ,butter ,scotch ,pie3 7,leslie ,fox47 ,beat light two egg-yolks with one scant cup dark brown sugar1 one tablespoonful creamed butter1 and two tablespoonfuls flour4 ,mix smooth1 then add gradually one cup rich milk1 put in double boiler1 and cook until thick4 ,let cool1 flavor with vanilla1 then pour into rich crusts1 previously well-baked1 cover with meringue made from the egg-whites1 set in oven to harden1 and serve hot or cold4 ,raspberry ,cream ,pie3 7,leslie ,fox47 ,line a deepish pie pan with very rich crust1 spread the crust thickly with red raspberry jam1 then pour upon it raw1 a custard made from two eggs beaten well with one cup of milk1 and one tablespoonful sugar4 ,bake until custard is well set1 let cool1 and spread with whipped cream4 ,serve cold as possible4 ,rhubarb ,pie3 ,to a generous quart of rhubarb1 peeled and cut up1 put three cups sugar1 the pulp scooped from three sweet oranges1 thin bits of the yellow peel1 two blades of mace broken small1 and a scant half-cup of cold water4 ,cover the pan and set for thirty minutes in a hot oven--uncover then and cook for five minutes longer4 ,the result is a sweet excellent for many uses--as a sauce1 as a substitute for marmalade1 as the foundation of pies1 tarts1 shortcakes1 even as a filling for layer cake4 ,make pies from it with two crusts1 or with lattice crusts as usual4 ,make it into tarts1 into turnovers or put between hot buttered layers for a hurry-up shortcake4 ,but if you wish to know how excellent such rhubarb can be1 make it thus into meringue pies or tarts4 ,bake the crusts after pricking them well1 cover thinly with either good meringue or the frosting directed for cheesecakes1 let it harden1 then at the minute of serving cover with a thin layer of the prepared rhubarb--the meringue or frosting will stay crisp until eaten if you work quickly enough4 ,young unpeeled tender rhubarb gives a pink sauce--older stalks peeled furnish a translucent green4 ,either is sufficiently decorative4 ,they can be made more so1 if the tarts they appear on1 have a cherry or preserved strawberry dropped in the middle of them4 ,banana ,pie3 ,line a deepish earthen pie dish with thin1 very good crust1 fill it three parts with bananas1 sliced crosswise very thin4 ,cover them thickly with sugar1 add the strained juice of a large lemon1 dot with bits of butter1 put on a lattice crust1 and bake in a quick oven twenty-five minutes4 ,banana ,pudding3 ,slice very thin1 crosswise1 three medium size bananas1 sprinkle thickly with sugar1 then add to a batter made by beating up four egg-yolks and two whites1 with one cup crumbled rich stale cake1 half-cup sugar1 cup very rich milk1 and the juice of a large lemon4 ,mix smooth1 pour into a deep pudding dish1 and bake in a quick oven1 then cover with meringue made from the egg-whites left out1 beaten up with a small pinch of salt1 two teaspoons cold water1 and six tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,return to the oven and let barely color4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,sweet ,potato ,pudding3 ,beat four eggs very light with four cups sugar and one cup creamed butter4 ,add a cupful of very rich milk1 mix smooth1 then add one pint of raw grated sweet potato4 ,mix well1 pour into a deep earthen dish and set in hot oven4 ,as soon as a brown crust forms on top1 stir it down4 ,repeat this three times at least4 ,serve hot1 with either wine sauce or a rich sugar and butter sauce1 flavored with lemon4 ,it is best not to flavor the pudding proper1 so one may get undiminished the zest of the brown crust stirred through it4 ,poor ,man's ,pudding3 ,take for each person to be served1 a fresh egg1 a tablespoonful sifted flour1 and half a cup very rich milk4 ,add a pinch of salt for each six eggs4 ,separate the eggs1 beating yolks and whites very light4 ,mix yolks gradually with the flour and milk1 taking care to have no lumps4 ,fold in the stiffly beaten whites at the very last--if the batter is too thick add a little more milk4 ,pour into a deep pan1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,it must be taken up the moment it is done or it will fall1 and be ruined4 ,serve immediately1 with a sauce made by working together over hot water three cups sugar1 one cup butter1 half a cup boiling water1 cup fruit juice1 wine or whiskey1 with any flavoring approved4 ,the sauce cannot be made too rich1 the pudding should be a pale clear yellow1 as light as a puff1 and cutting easily with a spoon4 ,it is not true to name in these days of costly eggs1 but deserved it in the pioneer epoch which originated it4 ,boiled ,batter ,pudding3 ,make the same batter as above1 only putting in a teaspoonful baking powder4 ,stir well through it three cups seeded raisins1 wet in whiskey and very well floured4 ,tie up in a newly-scalded floured pudding bag1 pop in a kettle of boiling water1 keep it full1 with more boiling water1 and cook from an hour to an hour and a half1 according to size4 ,serve very hot with plenty of very rich sweet sauce highly flavored1 and be sure to warm your knife or spoon before cutting into the pudding4 ,apple ,pudding3 7,m4 ,w4 ,watkins47 ,core and peel half a dozen tart apples1 slice crosswise1 put the slices in layers in a deep dish with plenty of sugar1 butter in reason1 cinnamon and a very little water4 ,pour over a batter made thus3 one egg beaten light with half a cup sugar1 butter the size of a walnut1 half a cup milk1 pinch of salt1 flour enough to make thick enough for layer cake1 with a teaspoonful baking powder sifted through4 ,spread batter smooth1 dot with bits of butter on top1 and bake in a brisk1 but not scorching oven1 half an hour or longer if needed--the apples must be thoroughly cooked4 ,serve hot or cold--preferably hot1 with hard sauce or wine sauce4 ,apple ,dumplings3 ,pare and core half a dozen tart apples1 stick three cloves in each1 fill the core-spaces full of very sweet hard sauce1 stick a sliver of mace in the sauce1 then set each apple on a round of good short paste1 and work the paste up over it1 joining the edges neat and trig4 ,set close in a pan just big enough1 pour around a half cup of sugar melted in a cup of water with a little butter and lemon juice4 ,cover the pan and cook quickly until done--then uncover1 brown1 take up and serve piping hot with a very rich hard sauce4 ,crumb ,pudding3 7,anne ,mc,vay47 ,soak a cup of dry grated bread crumbs in half a pint of milk until soft1 add then the well-beaten yolks of two eggs1 half a cup sugar1 tablespoonful butter1 and another half-pint milk4 ,flavor with lemon1 vanilla or brandy1 as preferred4 ,bake until firm in a quick1 but not scorching hot oven1 cover with meringue made from the egg-whites and half a cup of sugar4 ,barely color the meringue4 ,let cool1 and serve with either whipped or sweetened cream1 or a fruit sauce4 ,good without any sauce4 ,blackberry ,mush3 7,leslie ,fox47 ,wash after picking a quart of fresh1 very ripe blackberries1 put them on with barely enough water to save from burning1 bring to a good boil1 and skim clean1 then add gradually almost two pounds of flour1 or cornstarch well wet with cold water1 also sugar to taste4 ,cook1 stirring often till the mass looks thick and glossy1 pour into your pudding dish1 let cool1 chill thoroughly1 and serve with cream either plain1 or whipped1 or sweetened4 ,peach ,pudding3 ,beat light one egg1 with half a cup sugar1 two tablespoonfuls melted butter1 three-quarters cup flour1 one cup sour cream1 one teaspoon soda dissolved in one teaspoonful cold water1 and two cups very ripe peaches1 peeled and sliced thin4 ,bake quickly and serve when very hot with a rich hard or a wine sauce4 ,ginger ,pudding3 ,beat three eggs very light with two cups sugar1 a large cup rich black molasses1 three-quarters cup butter1 creamed1 tablespoon ginger beaten fine4 ,half a cup rich sour cream1 half a cup boiling water with teaspoon soda dissolved in it1 add flour enough to make a thickish batter1 pour into deep greased pan1 and bake quickly4 ,serve hot with rich sauce that is flavored with some orange juice and peel4 ,nesselrode ,pudding3 7,mrs4 ,h4 ,barker47 ,boil together three cups sugar1 one cup water until the syrup ropes4 ,beat it boiling hot into the yolks of six eggs previously beaten very light4 ,fold in the stiffly beaten whites1 then add box ,cox's gelatine dissolved in warm water1 one cup raisins1 seeded1 steamed and soaked in sherry or whiskey1 one cup of nuts rolled small1 else one cup of crumbled macaroons1 or a cup of both mixed4 ,finish with enough thick cream to make a full gallon1 pack in salt and ice1 freeze and let stand long enough to ripen4 ,thanksgiving ,pudding3 7,mrs4 ,j4 ,o4 ,cook47 ,beat light the yolks of four eggs with one cup sugar1 two tablespoonfuls creamed butter1 and one cup of stale cake crumbs1 soaked in eight tablespoonfuls whiskey4 ,mix well1 then add one cup raisins1 seeded and floured1 one cup nut meats1 cut small4 ,beat smooth and bake until set1 then cover with meringue4 ,serve with whipped cream or any sauce preferred4 ,milk can take the place of whiskey1 and preserves replace raisins4 ,real ,christmas ,pudding3 ,toast a pint of fine breadcrumbs to a good brown without burning1 pour on them half a cup of strong1 clear black coffee1 and let stand till soft4 ,beat six egg-yolks very light with two cups of yellow sugar and one of creamed butter1 add the soaked crumbs and mix very smooth4 ,meantime1 soak a cup of raisins1 seeded and halved1 a cup of clean currants1 a cup of shredded citron1 a cup of nut meats broken small1 in a tumbler of sherry1 a tumbler of rum1 and wineglass of apricot brandy4 ,add the fruit when well soaked to the eggs and sugar1 putting in any surplus liquors4 ,mix in gradually a teaspoonful of cinnamon1 the same of cloves and allspice1 half a cup of preserved ginger sliced very thin1 and a very tiny dusting of black pepper and paprika4 ,beat smooth1 then fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites alternately with a cup of browned flour4 ,if too thick to stir handily thin with a little milk or boiling water4 ,pour into a clean pudding bag1 freshly scalded1 leaving room for the pudding to swell1 put in a deep kettle of boiling water1 and boil for five hours1 filling up the kettle as needed with boiling water so as not to check the cooking4 ,make several days beforehand1 and boil an extra hour upon ,christmas day4 ,serve in a blaze of brandy1 with a very rich sauce1 either fruit or wine flavored4 ,pudding ,sauce3 7,mrs4 ,barbara ,clayton47 ,beat together until very light1 one cup white sugar1 one cup creamed butter1 and the yolks of three eggs4 ,beat the egg whites very stiff with another cup of sugar1 add to the yolks and butter1 beat hard together1 then put in double boiler and cook until thick4 ,put two wineglasses of good whiskey in a bowl1 pour the hot sauce upon it1 and whip hard until light4 ,illustration3 ,creole ,cookery ,exotics rarely flower in native splendor after transplanting4 ,milly was the exception1 proving the rule4 ,bred in ,new ,orleans1 steeped in its atmosphere1 its traditions1 a cook of degree1 and daughter of a cook to whom1 though past middle age1 she paid the most reverent homage1 she yet kept her magic touch amid the crush and hurly-burly of ,new ,york town1 albeit she never grew acclimated nor even content4 ,this in spite of a mistress she adored--in virtue of having served her ten years down in the home city4 ,when at last ,milly went back to her own1 there was wailing amongst all of us1 who had eaten her cooking1 but the mistress smiled1 rather sadly1 to be sure1 saying3 ,i could not beg her to stay--she was so unhappy here4 ,milly never had quite a free hand--,new ,york markets know not many things familiar to those of the ,crescent ,city4 ,notwithstanding1 she was a liberal education in blended flavors1 in the delights1 the surprises of the ,creole kitchen4 ,tall and slim1 of a golden-brown complexion1 neat to the point of austerity1 trim and self-contained1 sight of her somehow gave an added piquancy to her dishes4 ,she did not make friends readily1 but the comradery of cooking induced her to more than tolerate me4 ,i don't say ,i kin cook--but my mother can1 she often told me--smiling proudly the while1 with the buzzing praises of gourmets sounding in her ears4 ,she could never tell you how she made her ambrosial dishes--but if you had my luck to be persona gratis she could and did show you1 to the queen's taste4 ,i shall write only whereof ,i know--not by any means a compend of ,creole cookery4 ,indeed1 a lifetime is hardly enough to eat of all its specially excellent dishes4 ,it seems to me from this scant experience1 one general principle runs through all4 ,it is the blending of proportioned flavors1 achieved through long and gentle cooking4 ,milly said she let things sob1 a mistake ,i dare say1 for the old-time sod1 past participle of seethe4 ,but ,i by no means speak with authority--my deduction is from the premise of fifty dinners1 each it seemed to me uniquely excellent4 ,after this prelude come we to specific recipes4 ,court ,bouillon3 7,pronounced ,coubare47 ,milly sighed for ,redfish or ,red ,snapper but made shift with halibut or any other firm fine-grained fish perfectly fresh4 ,take three pounds of it1 wash very clean1 and cut in six equal slices with a very sharp knife4 ,there must be no rags and tatters4 ,melt a heaping tablespoonful of lard in a deep kettle1 add to it gradually two tablespoonfuls flour1 stirring hard so it shall not burn4 ,throw into it a dozen pounded alspice1 three sprigs each of thyme1 parsley1 bay leaf and sweet marjoram chopped fine1 one small clove of garlic1 one large onion also chopped fine1 and either six large fresh tomatoes1 chopped small1 or half a can--those from glass are best4 ,pour in a large glass of claret1 add a quart of boiling water1 and bring all to a very brisk boil4 ,cook for five minutes1 then add salt and ,cayenne pepper to taste4 ,boil five minutes longer1 then lay in the fish slices one at a time1 following them with the strained juice of a lemon4 ,boil hard twenty minutes longer4 ,serve hot4 ,to make ,court ,bouillon a la ,espagnole1 stir together as above1 lard and flour1 taking care to have them smooth1 add a large onion1 six tomatoes1 clove of garlic1 sprigs of sweet basil and thyme1 all chopped fine1 along with two whole bay leaves4 ,brown all nicely1 taking care not to burn1 then add a quart of boiling water1 bring to a boil and cook two or three minutes4 ,have six thick slices of fine1 firm fresh fish1 rub them well over with salt and pepper1 lay in a dish and pour over a large cup of white wine boiling hot4 ,vinegar answers1 but wine is better4 ,lay the fish slices in the pot1 handling carefully1 add the wine1 and simmer until tender--about half an hour commonly4 ,take up carefully so as not to break1 lay in a deepish dish1 remove bay leaves from the gravy and pour over the fish4 ,finish with a garnish of sliced lemon1 and serve with either boiled rice or whole boiled potatoes4 ,bouillabaisse3 ,while time endures ,new ,orleans will plume itself upon this dish which drew from ,thackeray a world-famous tribute4 ,in ,new ,orleans you can eat a ,bouillabaisse1 the like of which was never eaten in ,marseilles or ,paris4 ,which is much1 very much1 from the laureate of ,bouillabaisse1 as native to ,marseilles4 ,the reason of superiority is not far to seek--it lies in the excellence and flavor of the fish native to the ,gulf of ,mexico4 ,lacking ,pompano1 ,red ,snapper1 and ,redfish1 even ,milly could not quite do her knowledge justice4 ,but she made shift with what the market offered1 choosing generally halibut1 with fresh cod1 or bluefish1 or sea trout4 ,two kinds of fish in equal quantity are imperative4 ,the better1 finer and firmer the fish1 the better the ,bouillabaisse4 ,cut each sort in six equal slices1 saving trimmings1 heads1 etc4 ,boil them in three pints of water1 with a sliced onion1 and a bouquet of herbs1 until reduced to one pint4 ,remove fish-heads and herbs1 then strain the stock1 and set aside until needed4 ,meantime rub the fish over very well with salt and pepper1 then with a mixture made by mincing very fine three bay leaves1 three sprigs each of thyme and parsley1 three cloves of garlic1 and six allspice pounded to powder4 ,rub the mixture in well and thoroughly--here is the key to success4 ,the seasoning must go through and through the fish4 ,put into a very wide pan1 two tablespoonfuls of olive oil1 heat it gently1 add two mild onions1 chopped and let them cook a little without browning4 ,now lay in the fish1 slice by slice1 so one slice does not touch another1 cover the pan1 and let the slices smother for about ten minutes1 turning them once1 so as to cook each side partly4 ,take up1 lay separately in a large dish1 pour half a bottle of white wine into the pan1 and stir hard4 ,add six large1 fresh tomatoes1 sliced very thin1 let boil a few minutes1 then half a lemon1 also in very thin slices1 and a pint of the fish stock strained4 ,season well1 with salt1 pepper1 and ,cayenne--here the palate is guide4 ,boil all together until reduced almost one half1 then lay in the fish slices1 taking care they do not touch1 and boil briskly for five minutes4 ,while the boiling goes on1 chop fine a pinch of saffron1 put it in a small1 deep dish1 and mix smooth with a spoonful of the boiling liquor4 ,dissolve the saffron very well1 and when the fish has cooked its allotted five minutes1 spread the saffron on top of the fish4 ,fry in butter as many slices of toast as you have slices of fish--lay the fish on the toast1 pour the sauce over it1 and serve immediately1 very hot4 ,shrimps3 ,the secret of cooking shrimps is to boil them properly--that is to say in very salt water1 almost brine4 ,they take up salt only in the boiling1 and not so much then4 ,to five quarts of very salt water add a large bunch of celery1 chopped1 roots1 leaves and all1 two dozen allspice1 one dozen cloves1 two blades of mace1 a bouquet of herbs chopped small1 a pod of red pepper1 and a seasoning of ,cayenne4 ,boil until the strength of herbs and seasoning is extracted1 then throw in a hundred shrimps--river shrimps are best--let boil hard ten minutes1 take from fire and allow the shrimps to cool in the brine4 ,serve as a relish before dinner1 on a bed of cracked ice1 with a garnish of parsley4 ,baked ,shrimp3 ,cut the eyes from a dozen large1 meaty tomatoes1 scoop out the pulp1 leaving the shells whole1 then mix it with one hundred shrimps boiled as directed and picked from their shells1 one cup grated bread crumbs or fine cracker crumbs1 and one heaping tablespoon of butter4 ,stew all together1 seasoning with pepper and salt1 fill the tomato shells with the mixture1 sift fine crumbs on top1 dot with butter1 put in a pan1 with a very little hot water in the bottom1 and bake until done in a quick but not scorching oven4 ,shrimp ,pie3 ,boil and pick from shells one hundred shrimps1 mix well with two large slices stale bread free of crust1 moistened with two glasses white wine1 and highly seasoned with salt1 pepper1 ,cayenne1 nutmeg1 mace1 chopped thyme and parsley4 ,crisp the bread crusts1 and grate over the mixture after it is packed in a deep dish4 ,dot well with butter1 and bake in a hot oven4 ,serve with a sauce made by cooking together a pint of boiled shrimps1 a tablespoonful of butter1 five chopped tomatoes1 a little celery1 thyme1 parsley and bay leaf1 also chopped4 ,cook three to four minutes1 then add half a pint of oyster liquor1 boil up1 and serve very hot4 ,shrimp ,salad3 ,boil1 and pick from shells--if large cut in half1 otherwise leave whole4 ,season well with salt and pepper1 then mix well with crisp celery1 chopped fine with a very little onion4 ,heap in salad dish1 cover with a good mayonnaise1 and garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs1 sliced lemon1 sliced beets1 and celery tips4 ,fried ,soft-,shell ,crabs3 ,wash always in cold water--hot water spoils the flavor4 ,remove all sand1 also the sand-bag between the eyes1 the apron1 and the spongy growths under the side points4 ,rinse well again in cold water1 and dry thoroughly with a clean towel4 ,season a pint of rich milk well with pepper and salt4 ,season the crabs also1 lay them in the milk1 rubbing them so that it may impregnate them throughout4 ,take out1 roll in sifted flour1 patting lightly as you roll1 then shaking free of loose flour4 ,have deep fat1 very hot--it must be deep enough to swim the crabs4 ,drop them in gently1 fry to a delicate brown1 skim out1 drain on hot spongy paper1 and serve garnished with fried parsley1 and sliced lemon4 ,serve with ,tartare sauce4 ,daube3 ,otherwise ,beef a la ,mode3 ,take five pounds good lean beef1 rump or top round1 and lard it with a quarter pound salt pork or fat bacon1 cut in thin strips and season highly with salt1 pepper1 onion1 garlic1 thyme1 parsley1 and bay leaves1 all minced fine4 ,crowd in the seasoning as well as the larding strips4 ,make the cuts for larding three to four inches long4 ,cut two large1 mild onions in quarters1 and put into a deep saucepan with a tablespoonful of lard1 let them brown well1 then lay upon them the larded beef1 cover1 and let simmer very slowly till well browned4 ,when browned add five carrots and two turnips cut into inch-squares1 and two more onions chopped fine4 ,keep covered tight1 and simmer for ten minutes1 then turn over the meat1 and brown the other side--it will take about ten minutes more4 ,then cover the meat with boiling water1 or weak stock1 add a glass of sherry or ,madeira1 or even claret1 season with salt1 black pepper1 and ,cayenne to taste1 then cover the pot tight1 set it where it will barely simmer and let smother for three hours4 ,the meat should be very tender4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,cold ,daube a la ,creole3 ,lard1 season1 and cook1 three pounds of rump or round as above directed1 but keep it simmering four hours instead of three4 ,put into a deep dish rather large and pour over it a sauce made thus3 ,put a two-pound veal steak and two well-cleaned pigsfeet1 in a pot with1 four quarts of water1 after seasoning them well with salt1 pepper and ,cayenne4 ,add half a clove garlic1 bay leaf1 sprig thyme1 one onion1 all minced fine1 also two cloves pounded1 and a glass of sherry or ,madeira4 ,keep boiling till the meat falls from the bones--take up then1 remove bones1 mince the meat fine1 season it highly and return to the liquor1 stirring it well through4 ,pour over the beef1 let stand uncovered in a very cool place to harden4 ,serve in very thin slices--it will be like jelly4 ,this is a cold-weather dish1 as even an ice-box will not harden the sauce properly in summer4 ,grillades with ,gravy3 ,flatten by beating a good round steak1 and cut into four-inch-squares4 ,season the squares highly with salt1 pepper1 and ,cayenne4 ,put a heaping tablespoon of lard in a frying pan--as it melts1 add a chopped onion1 a clove of garlic also chopped1 and as these brown1 one tablespoonful of flour1 stirring all smooth4 ,next add two sliced tomatoes with their juice--when they brown1 lay the grillades upon them4 ,cover close1 let them brown on one side1 then turn and brown the other4 ,then add half a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and a cup of water4 ,stir well1 then set where it will simmer for half an hour4 ,fine for breakfast with hominy or rice4 ,another way is to cook the grillades without garlic1 and add to them along with the tomatoes half a pint of tender okra well washed and sliced4 ,or they can be fried brown1 in clear fat1 then put in a hot dish over boiling water while a gravy is made of fresh fat1 heated very hot1 and stirred about the pan to take up the brown meat essence1 a chopped onion1 two sliced tomatoes1 a tablespoonful flour1 as much vinegar and water4 ,season to taste with salt1 pepper1 and ,cayenne1 boil ten to twelve minutes and pour over the grillades4 ,chicken ,saute a la ,creole3 ,clean1 singe and cut in joints two spring chickens1 dividing the breasts lengthwise1 and cutting drumsticks from thighs4 ,season well with salt and pepper4 ,melt in a frying pan two large tablespoonfuls butter1 add the chicken1 and let it brown slowly for five minutes4 ,have three large onions sliced thin--add them and let brown but take care not to scorch in the least4 ,dredge in two tablespoonfuls flour1 and let it brown4 ,then put in half a dozen large tomatoes peeled and sliced1 let them brown but cook slowly1 letting the pan barely simmer4 ,add chopped parsley1 thyme and bay leaf1 also two cloves of garlic finely minced1 and if you have them1 half a dozen sweet green peppers1 freed of seed and cut in shreds4 ,stir well1 cover and let smother for twenty minutes1 stirring now and then1 but keeping the pan covered4 ,add a cup of consomm if in hand1 otherwise a cup of boiling water1 cook very slowly a full half hour1 seasoning to taste4 ,after seasoning1 cook ten minutes longer4 ,serve very hot4 ,roasted ,quail3 ,take six quail1 fat1 fresh and tender1 pick1 draw1 singe1 and wipe with a damp cloth inside and out4 ,butter inside1 and sprinkle with salt and pepper lightly4 ,butter all over the outside1 truss1 and bind around with a thin slice of fat bacon4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter in the roasting pan1 fit in the quail1 and roast in a hot oven twenty to thirty minutes1 according to size4 ,put six slices of hot buttered toast in a hot dish1 and lay a quail on each4 ,add half a spoonful of butter1 a little boiling water1 and the juice of a lemon to the gravy in the pan1 cook three to four minutes1 stirring well1 strain1 set back on stove to cook two minutes longer1 then pour evenly upon the breasts of the birds so it will soak in the toast4 ,garnish with sliced lemon and watercress1 and serve with green grape jelly4 ,if grape leaves are to be had1 wrap the birds in them instead of bacon1 after preparing as directed1 roast1 take up on toast1 garnish with fresh young grape leaves1 and serve with either spiced grapes or grape jelly4 ,creole ,french ,dressing3 ,put three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a deep1 small bowl1 add to it a saltspoon salt and half one of pepper--more if taste approves4 ,add alternately drop by drop1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 and a tablespoonful vinegar4 ,when well mixed1 add the yolk of a hard-boiled egg1 mashed very smooth1 and stir until blended4 ,serve with lettuce1 celery or potato salad4 ,mayonnaise ,dressing3 ,chill a small bowl1 also a fresh egg1 and your salad oil4 ,put the yolk of the egg in the bowl--which if it is summer1 should sit in cracked ice4 ,add drop by drop chilled oil1 working it in as you drop it4 ,when you have added a spoonful begin dropping in lemon juice1 working it likewise into the yolk4 ,it will harden the egg--stir till very hard1 then add more oil1 drop by drop1 working it in with a fork4 ,repeat1 until you have used the juice of half a lemon1 and two gills of oil4 ,when the egg begins to curdle add salt and pepper to taste--but do not put them in until the last4 ,keep and serve very cold4 ,remoulade ,dressing3 ,put three hard boiled egg-yolks into a bowl1 mash smooth1 add to them half a teaspoonful made mustard1 one tablespoonful ,tarragon vinegar1 with salt and ,cayenne to taste4 ,next add1 drop by drop1 three tablespoonfuls olive oil1 after which put in the yolk of a raw egg1 and stir until light4 ,finish with the juice of half a lemon1 added very gradually4 ,much depends on the mixing--if hurried or carelessly done1 the sauce will curdle4 ,this is standard for cold meat of every sort1 also heavy salads1 and fish4 ,drip ,coffee3 ,two things are essential--an absolutely clean urn1 and sound coffee1 freshly parched1 and ground neither too fine nor too coarse4 ,the water must be freshly boiled4 ,put a cup of ground coffee in the strainer1 pour upon it about two tablespoonfuls of boiling water1 let it stand until the water drips through and there is no more bubbling1 then pour on more water1 but not too much1 let it drip1 keeping both the strainer and the spout covered to prevent the loss of aroma4 ,repeat until you have used almost five cups of water--this for four cups of strained coffee1 as the grounds hold part of the water4 ,keep the pot hot while the dripping goes on1 but never where the coffee will boil4 ,if it dyes the cups it is too strong1 but beware of making too weak4 ,bruleau3 ,put into the special bruleau bowl1 which has its own brandy ladle1 three ladlefuls of brandy1 along with the yellow peel of half an orange1 a dozen cloves1 a stick of cinnamon1 a few grains of alspice and six lumps of sugar4 ,let stand several hours to extract the essential oils4 ,at serving time put in an extra ladleful of brandy for every person to be served1 and two lumps of domino sugar4 ,pour alcohol in the tray underneath the bowl1 light it1 and stir the brandy back and forth until it also catches from the flame below4 ,let burn two or three minutes--if the lights have been extinguished as they should be1 the effect is beautifully spectral4 ,after the three minutes pour in strong1 hot1 clear1 black coffee1 a small cupful for each person1 keep stirring until the flame dies out1 then serve literally blazing hot4 ,this burnt water known in more sophisticated regions as ,caf ,diabolique1 originated in ,new ,orleans1 and is the consummate flowering of ,creole cookery4 ,illustration3 ,cakes1 ,great and ,small ,the very queen among cake makers sums her secret of success in a sentence3 ,the best of everything4 ,cake will never be better than the things whereof it is made1 no matter how skilled the maker4 ,but it can be1 and too often is1 dismally worse1 thus involving a waste of heaven's good gifts of sugar1 butter1 eggs1 flour and flavors4 ,having the best at hand1 use it well4 ,isaac ,walton's direction for the bait1 ,use them as though you loved them1 applies here as many otherwheres4 ,unless you love cake-making1 not perhaps the work1 but the results1 you will never excell greatly in the fine art4 ,better buy your cake1 or hire the making thereof1 else swap work with some other person better gifted in this special branch4 ,here are a few cardinal helps4 ,have the eggs very cold1 butter soft but not oily1 flour dry and light--sun or oven-dry it in muggy weather4 ,sift it three times for ordinary cakes1 twice for tea cakes1 and so on1 four to five times for very light things1 sponge cake1 angel's food1 and measure it before sifting1 and don't forget the needed amount--then you will be in no danger of putting in too much or too little4 ,always put a pinch of fine salt in the bottom of the mixing bowl1 which ought to be freshly scalded and wiped very dry4 ,a damp bowl clogs with either sugar or flour1 making the stirring much harder4 ,unless specifically directed otherwise1 separate the eggs1 set the whites on ice till time to whip them1 beat the yolks very1 very light--to a pale1 frothy yellow1 add the sugar1 free of lumps1 a cupful at a time1 then the butter washed and beaten to a creamy froth1 beat hard together for five minutes1 then add alternately the flour and the egg-whites beaten to the stiffest possible froth4 ,add a pinch of salt as beating begins1 and if the egg supply is scant1 a teaspoonful of cold water to each white4 ,this will increase the quantity1 and help to make the cake lighter1 as it is the air-bubbles imprisoned in the froth which give it its raising virtue4 ,add fruit and flavoring last thing4 ,fruit should be well floured but never clotted4 ,if batter appears to be too stiff a little whiskey thins it excellently1 and helps to make it lighter4 ,put in two tablespoonfuls to six eggs1 using more in proportion4 ,rose water or a liqueur have the same effect but give their own flavor--which whiskey does not4 ,if strong butter needs must be used1 it can be mitigated to a degree1 by washing and kneading well in cold water barely dashed with chloride of lime solution1 then rinsing well in cold water1 and afterward in sweet milk4 ,the milk may be half water4 ,rinse it out clean4 ,let the butter soften well before undertaking to cream it4 ,a stout1 blunt wooden spoon is the best for creaming1 along with a deep bowl very narrow at the bottom4 ,grease deep cake tins plentifully1 with either lard or butter--using only the best4 ,for heavy cakes such as fruit1 spice and marble cake1 line them with double thicknesses of buttered paper and either set shallow pans of water in the oven while baking or stand the pans themselves in other pans with a quarter inch of water in the bottoms4 ,if cakes brown too fast1 open the oven door1 a trifle1 and lay over the pan a thick1 well buttered paper until the oven cools4 ,never jar the oven while cake is baking in it--neither by banging the doors1 nor dumping heavy vessels on top of it4 ,beware likewise slamming kitchen doors1 or bumping things about in the room4 ,fine cake demands as many virtues of omission as of commission4 ,indeed the don'ts are as essential as the doings4 ,layer cakes need to be mixed thinner than deep ones4 ,the batter must run freely4 ,half fill the tins and set in a hot oven1 taking care not to scorch before rising is finished4 ,butter tins very freely--it is economy in the end4 ,be sure the tins sit level in the oven--thus you escape an ungainly final loaf4 ,get filling ready as baking goes forward so as to put your layers together while still warm and pliable4 ,let cool before frosting1 so as to trim sides smooth4 ,take care fillings are not too watery1 also that they are mixed smooth4 ,spread evenly1 and press down a layer firmly all over1 before putting filling on top4 ,layers simplify greatly the problem of baking1 but to my mind1 no layer cake1 not even the famous ,lady ,baltimore1 is equal to a fine deep loaf1 well frosted1 and meltingly rich throughout4 ,pound ,cake3 7,aunt ,polly ,rives7 ,take ten fresh eggs1 their weight in fresh butter1 white sugar1 and thrice sifted flour4 ,separate the eggs1 beat yolks to a cream-yellow1 add the sugar1 cupful at a time1 beat hard1 then the butter creamed to a froth1 then half the flour1 then two wineglasses of whiskey or brandy or good sherry or rose water1 beat hard five minutes1 then add the rest of the flour1 taking care not to pack it in the handling4 ,beat fifteen minutes longer1 then fold in with long strokes1 the egg-whites beaten with a good pinch of salt until they stick to the dish4 ,barely mix them through the batter1 then pour it into deep pans1 or ovens1 lined with double greased papers4 ,the vessels also must be well buttered4 ,bake with quick heat1 letting the cake rise well before browning4 ,slack heat when it is a very light brown1 and cook until a straw thrust to the bottom comes out clean4 ,turn out upon a thick1 folded cloth1 cover with another thinner cloth1 and let cool4 ,frost when cool1 either with the boiled frosting directed for cheesecakes 7,see ,chapter on ,paste1 ,pies and ,puddings7 or with plain frosting made thus4 ,beat three egg-whites well chilled to the stiffest possible froth with a pinch of salt1 and a very little cold water4 ,add to them gradually when thus beaten a pound of sugar sifted with a teaspoonful of cream of tartar4 ,mix very smooth1 and apply with a broad-bladed knife1 dipping it now and then in cold water to keep the frosting smooth4 ,it should dry a quarter-inch thick and be delicious eating4 ,frosted cake keeps fresh three times as long as that left naked4 ,spice ,cake3 ,cream a coffee cup of well washed butter1 with two cups yellow sugar and one cup black molasses4 ,add to it one after the other1 seven egg-yolks1 beating hard between4 ,when all are in1 add one tablespoonful whiskey1 or brandy1 one teaspoonful grated chocolate1 teaspoonful each of powdered cloves1 allspice1 ginger1 mace1 and cinnamon1 a grated nutmeg1 and half a saltspoonful of powdered black pepper4 ,add also a pinch of salt1 and the barest dusting of paprika4 ,if whiskey is for any reason disapproved1 use strong1 clear coffee instead1 putting in two spoonfuls1 and leaving out the chocolate4 ,beat all together hard for ten minutes1 then add four scant cups flour browned in the oven but not burned4 ,sift after browning1 adding to it two teaspoonfuls baking powder4 ,beat hard five minutes after the flour is all in1 then pour in a deep1 well greased pan1 lined with buttered paper1 let rise ten minutes with the oven door open1 then bake in quick heat until done through4 ,marble ,cake3 ,make up egg-yolks into spice cake1 beat the whites very light1 and add them to three cups of sifted sugar1 beaten smooth in a large cup of creamed butter4 ,put in a wineglass of whiskey or brandy1 then add three cups and a half flour sifted three times with a heaping teaspoonful baking powder4 ,put the light and dark batter by alternate spoonfuls in pans well buttered and papered1 let rise and bake the same as spice cake4 ,else bake the light and dark batter in layers1 put together with any good filling1 and frost with caramel frosting4 ,real ,gold ,cake3 ,beat very light the yolks of sixteen eggs1 with a full pound of yellow sugar1 and a scant pound of creamed butter4 ,add a cup of rich sour cream with a teaspoonful soda dissolved in it4 ,or if you like better put in the cream solus1 and add the soda dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling water at the very last4 ,this makes lighter cake so is worth the extra trouble4 ,flavor to taste--grated lemon rind is good4 ,add gradually four cups flour sifted three times at least4 ,beat hard for ten minutes1 then bake in well-greased pans1 lined with buttered paper1 until well done1 let cool partly in the pans1 then turn out1 dust lightly with flour or corn starch and frost4 ,real ,silver ,cake3 ,wash and cream to a froth a pound of fresh butter1 work into it a pound of sifted sugar1 and a pound of flour1 sifted thrice with a teaspoonful of baking powder4 ,add flavoring--vanilla1 lemon or rose water1 following it with a wineglass of whiskey4 ,then fold in the whites of sixteen eggs beaten with a pinch of salt to the stiffest possible froth4 ,if the batter looks too thick add half a cup sweet cream--this will depend on the size of the eggs and the dryness of the flour4 ,bake in deep pans1 else in layers4 ,by baking gold and silver batter in layers1 and alternating them you can have a fine marble cake4 ,or by coloring half the white batter pink with vegetable color to be had from any confectioner1 you can have rose-marble cake4 ,this should be iced with pink frosting else with plain white1 then dotted over with pink4 ,very decorative for birthday parties or afternoon teas4 ,christmas ,cake3 ,prepare fruit first4 ,cut small half a pound of homemade citron drained from syrup1 wash and seed one pound raisins1 pick1 wash and dry one pound currants1 mince a teacup of any firm preserve--quince1 peach or pear1 or use a cupful of preserved cherries whole4 ,shred fine four ounces of homemade candied peel1 also four ounces of preserved ginger1 add a cupful of nutmeats--pecans or ,english walnuts1 or even scalybarks1 cutting them in bits1 mix all well together1 then pour upon them the strained juice of three oranges1 and three lemons1 also add the grated yellow peel4 ,next pour on half a pint of whiskey1 a gill of rum1 and a tumbler of cordial--peach or blackberry1 and homemade if possible4 ,let stand overnight1 in a warm place--the fruit should take up the most part of the liquor4 ,a glass of tart jelly is held an improvement by some4 ,i do not put it in--the preserves suit my palate better4 ,cream a full pound of butter with four cups sifted sugar1 beat into it one at a time1 ten large fresh eggs4 ,after them put in four cups dried and sifted flour1 mix smooth1 then put in the fruit1 drained from the liquor and lightly dredged with hot1 sifted flour4 ,mix well1 then add the liquor drained from the fruit1 along with a tablespoonful of lemon essence1 and as much vanilla or rose water4 ,if the batter is too stiff to stir well1 thin with either a little sweet cream or boiling water1 or cordial4 ,pour into pans buttered and lined with five thicknesses of buttered paper1 set the pans in other pans of hot water inside a warm but not brisk oven1 shield the tops with double paper1 and let rise half an hour4 ,increase heat then1 but the baking must be slow4 ,four to five hours is required1 according to the size of pans4 ,keep covered until the last half hour--then the heat may be sensibly increased4 ,test with straws--when they come out clean1 take up1 set pans on racks1 cover with thick cloth and let cool thoroughly4 ,frost next day1 with either plain or boiled frosting4 ,by baking the cake in rather small square molds1 set close in a larger pan1 the squares can be cut without waste and frosted to make individual cakes4 ,white ,layer ,cake3 7,mrs4 ,george ,h4 ,patch47 ,sift two teaspoonfuls baking powder through three and a half cups flour1 measured before sifting4 ,cream a cup of butter with two and one half cups sugar1 add a cup of rich milk1 beat hard1 then add gradually the flour1 following it with the whites of seven eggs beaten very stiff with a small pinch of salt4 ,fold in lightly1 and bake in three layers4 ,put together with orange filling1 or frosting made thick with nuts and minced figs4 ,german ,coffee ,cake3 7,mrs4 ,t4 ,g4 ,petre47 ,beat six fresh eggs very light with one pound of sugar1 and one pound flour4 ,add the peel of a lemon grated1 and one yeast cake dissolved in a little hot milk or water4 ,let stand till very light1 then roll into sheets one inch thick1 spread them thickly with melted butter--half a pound will be required1 sprinkle with two ounces bitter almonds blanched and shredded fine1 mixed with four ounces sugar1 and a teaspoonful powdered cinnamon4 ,let rise again1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,good hot or cold4 ,cream ,cake3 7,betsy ,vaughn47 ,cream together very light two cups butter1 three cups sugar1 one cup sweet cream4 ,add gradually four cups flour sifted with one teaspoonful baking powder1 then fold in the whites of fourteen eggs beaten very stiff with a pinch of salt4 ,flavor with bitter almonds1 bake in loaves or layers1 and frost with pink icing1 flavored with rose water4 ,sponge ,cake3 ,beat very light the yolks of seven eggs with three cups sifted sugar1 and a pinch of salt4 ,add to them gradually a cup of hot water1 then three scant cups flour sifted thrice with two teaspoonfuls baking powder4 ,fold in last the stiffly beaten white of the eggs1 pour into greased pans1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,the batter must not be too thin4 ,if the eggs are large only half a cup of water may be requisite4 ,flavor with vanilla1 putting orange or lemon in the frosting4 ,white ,sponge ,cake3 ,beat very stiff six egg-whites1 add to them gradually a cup of sugar1 and a cup of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful of baking powder4 ,do not forget a tiny pinch of salt in the eggs4 ,angel's ,food3 ,beat to a stiff froth with a pinch of salt1 the whites of eleven eggs4 ,mix in gradually a cup and a half of powdered sugar1 then add a cup of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful cream of tartar4 ,mix smooth1 add the strained juice of half a lemon1 pour into a smooth1 ungreased pan1 bake in a moderate oven half an hour1 take up1 turn pan upside down on a cloth and let stand till the cake falls out4 ,chocolate ,cake3 ,sift together two cups flour1 one cup corn starch1 and two teaspoonfuls baking powder1 add to a cup of butter1 creamed light with two cups sugar and one cup sweet cream4 ,add the stiffly beaten whites of seven eggs1 flavor with vanilla1 and bake in layers4 ,for the filling boil together to a thick syrup1 three cups sugar1 one cup water1 and half a cake of grated chocolate4 ,pour upon three egg-whites beaten very stiff1 flavor with vanilla or bitter almond1 and spread between layers4 ,orange ,cake3 ,cream a cup of butter with two cups sugar1 beat into it a cup of cold water1 then add four cups flour thrice sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder1 alternate the flour with three well-beaten eggs4 ,flavor to taste1 bake in layers1 and put together with orange frosting made thus4 ,cook together till it threads the strained juice1 and grated yellow peel of a large sweet orange with one cup sugar1 then beat the hot syrup into two egg-whites whipped as stiff as possible4 ,beat smooth and spread while hot4 ,dream ,cakes3 ,cream well half a cup butter1 add a cup and a half of sugar1 half a cup cold water1 two cups flour sifted twice with two teaspoonfuls baking powder1 a teaspoonful lemon extract1 and the stiffly beaten whites of six eggs4 ,bake in small shapes1 frost1 with boiled frosting1 and ornament with tiny pink candies4 ,shrewsbury ,cakes3 ,this receipt with two that follow1 comes down from3 ,the spacious days of great ,elizabeth4 ,they are given verbatim1 from the original version1 as it seems to me the flavor of the language must add to the flavor of the cakes4 ,mix half a pound of butter1 well beat like cream1 with the same weight of flour1 one egg1 six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar1 and half an ounce of caraway seed4 ,form these into a paste1 roll them thin1 and lay them in sheets of tin1 then bake them in a slow oven4 ,queen ,cakes3 ,take a pound of sugar1 beat and sift it1 a pound of well dried flour1 a pound of butter1 eight eggs1 and half a pound of currants1 washed and picked2 grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of mace and cinnamon1 work the butter to a cream1 put in the sugar1 beat the whites of the eggs twenty minutes and mix them with the butter and sugar4 ,then beat the yolks for half an hour1 and put them to the butter4 ,beat the whole together and when it is ready for the oven1 put in the flour1 spices and currants1 sift a little sugar over them1 and bake them in tins4 ,banbury ,cakes3 ,take a pound of dough1 made for white bread1 roll it out and put bits of butter upon the same as for puff paste1 till a pound of the same has been worked in2 roll it out very thin1 then cut it into bits of an oval size1 according as the cakes are wanted4 ,mix some good moist sugar with a little brandy1 sufficient to wet it1 then mix some clean-washed currants with the former1 put a little upon each bit of paste1 close them up1 and put the side that is closed next the tin they are to be baked upon4 ,lay them separate1 and bake them moderately1 and afterward1 when taken out1 sift sugar over them4 ,some candied peel may be added1 or a few drops essence of lemon4 ,oatmeal ,cookies3 7,mrs4 ,t4 ,g4 ,petre47 ,beat together until creamy1 one egg1 half cup sugar1 third cup butter1 third teaspoonful soda mixed with one cup sifted pastry flour1 half teaspoonful each of salt and cinnamon1 then add one cup rolled oatmeal1 half cup each of shredded nuts and raisins4 ,mix well1 drop on greased tin1 and bake in a slow oven4 ,do not let the stiffness of the dough induce you to add milk or water4 ,tea ,cakes3 7,betsy ,vaughn47 ,cream together a cup and a half of butter1 and two cups and a half of sugar1 add to five eggs beaten very light1 mix well1 then add a cup and a half of buttermilk with a small teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it4 ,pour upon flour enough to make a soft dough1 flavor with nutmeg1 roll out a quarter-inch thick1 cut with a small1 round cutter1 and bake in a quick but not scorching oven4 ,tea ,cakes3 7,m4 ,l4 ,williams47 ,beat five eggs very light1 with five cups of sugar1 a heaping cup of lard1 well creamed1 and two cupfuls of sour milk1 with a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it4 ,mix through enough flour to make a soft dough1 roll half an inch thick1 cut out and bake in a quick oven4 ,plain ,soft ,gingerbread3 ,dissolve a desert spoonful of soda in a cup of boiling water1 add to it a cup of rich molasses1 along with three tablespoonfuls of melted butter4 ,mix well through two and and one half cups sifted flour1 add ground ginger and alspice to taste1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,mammy's ,ginger ,cakes3 ,beat four eggs very light with a good pinch of salt and a cup of coffee sugar4 ,add three cups of rich molasses1 and a cup of boiling water with two teaspoonfuls soda dissolved in it4 ,mix well in two tablespoonfuls pounded ginger4 ,sift five pints of flour with a teaspoonful of salt1 rub into it lightly two cups sweet lard1 then add the molasses mixture and knead to a firm dough1 adding more flour if needed or1 if too stiff1 a little sweet milk4 ,roll out half an inch thick1 cut into big squares1 bake in a quick oven1 and brush over the tops while blazing hot a little butter1 molasses and boiling water4 ,let stand in a warm place until dry4 ,these might properly be called ,first ,monday ,ginger ,cakes1 since our ,mammy made them to sell upon that day to the crowds which came to court1 thereby turning many an honest fip or picayune4 ,family ,gingerbread3 ,cup and a half dark molasses1 half cup sugar1 small cup melted lard1 cup boiling water with teaspoonful soda dissolved in it1 pinch of salt1 sifted flour enough to make rather stiffer than pound cake batter4 ,spices to taste--ginger1 allspice1 nutmeg1 all in powder1 is a good mixture4 ,bake rather quickly4 ,solid ,chocolate ,cake3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,cream together one cup butter1 two of sugar1 add six egg-yolks beaten light1 then add alternately one cup sour milk with teaspoon soda dissolved in it1 and three cups sifted flour4 ,fold in egg-whites stiffly beaten then add half cake ,baker's chocolate melted1 and three teaspoonfuls vanilla4 ,stir hard a minute1 pour in deep1 well greased pan1 and bake in moderate oven4 ,coffee ,cake3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,beat together until light1 one egg1 one cup sugar1 butter the size of a large egg4 ,add alternately one cup milk1 and two cups flour with two teaspoonfuls baking powder sifted in it4 ,put in pan1 and sprinkle thickly all over top with sugar and powdered cinnamon4 ,bake rather quickly but do not scorch4 ,fig ,pudding3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,one pound figs1 half pound suet1 six eggs1 two cups sugar1 three cups biscuit crumbs4 ,run figs1 suet and crumbs through grinder1 beat eggs very light1 add other ingredients1 beat again1 and steam or boil in buttered mold1 tied in well scalded bag1 four hours4 ,serve hot with this sauce4 ,beat to a light cream1 one cup butter with two cups sugar4 ,add two eggs very well beaten1 then gradually two tablespoons vinegar and one of vanilla4 ,cook a long time in double boiler1 stirring constantly1 or it will not be smooth4 ,keep hot until served4 ,thin ,ginger ,snaps3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,mix a cup of melted lard well through two of molasses1 add a pinch of salt1 spices to taste1 and enough flour to make a soft batter4 ,drop by small spoonfuls on a well-greased baking sheet1 and cook in quick oven4 ,measure ,pound ,cake3 7,leslie ,fox47 ,cream well together1 one cup butter1 one and three-quarter cups sugar1 when very light1 drop in an egg-yolk unbeaten1 beat hard1 put in another yolk1 beat again hard1 then another1 and repeat the hard beating4 ,when very light add alternately two and one-half cups flour1 and one cup milk1 mix well1 then add half a cup flour sifted three times with three even teaspoonfuls baking powder4 ,follow this with the egg-whites beaten stiff4 ,flavor with brandy--a tablespoonful and a half4 ,bake in a moderate oven about an hour4 ,serve with any approved pudding sauce1 or use as other cake4 ,nearly as good as the pound cake of our grandmothers4 ,kisses3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,add to four fresh egg-whites unbeaten1 a tiny pinch of salt1 two teaspoonfuls water1 and three cups fine sugar4 ,beat hard for at least half an hour--until the mixture is smooth and stiff4 ,drop from point of spoon upon buttered paper1 and harden in an oven cool enough not to color4 ,illustration3 ,meat1 ,poultry1 ,game1 ,eggs ,barbecued ,lamb3 ,the middle piece1 known to butchers as the bracelet1 is best for barbecuing4 ,have it split down the backbone1 and the rib-ends neatly trimmed1 also the ribs proper1 broken about midway1 but not quite through4 ,wash clean1 wipe dry1 rub over well with salt1 then prick in tiny gashes with a sharp-pointed knife1 and rub in well black pepper1 paprika1 a very little dry mustard1 then dash lightly with tabasco4 ,put a low rack in the bottom of a deep narrowish pan1 set the meat upon it1 letting only the backbone and rib-ends touch the rack4 ,this puts it in a sort of ,gothic arch4 ,keep it so throughout the cooking4 ,put a cupful of water underneath--it must not touch the meat4 ,have the oven very hot1 but not scorching--should it scorch in the least turn another pan over the meat for the first hour of cooking4 ,add more water as the first boils away1 but do not baste the meat--the water is merely to keep it from getting too hard4 ,roast till the fat is crisped and brown throughout1 the lean very tender4 ,take up on a broad1 hot dish1 and in serving cut along the ribs1 so as to let each portion include the whole length of them1 as well as part of the backbone4 ,serve with a sauce1 of melted butter1 mixed with equal quantity of strong vinegar1 boiling hot1 made thick with red and black pepper1 minced cucumber pickle1 and a bare dash of onion juice4 ,this is as near an approach to a real barbecue1 which is cooked over live coals in the bottom of a trench1 as a civilized kitchen can supply4 ,the middling of a pig weighing less than a hundred pounds1 well scraped1 washed clean1 and likewise roasted on a rack after seasoning it well1 makes a fine dish4 ,the sauce for it should include minced green peppers1 instead of cucumbers4 ,if you happen to have a pepper mango1 cut it fine1 and let it stand in the hot sauce ten minutes before serving4 ,beefsteak with ,bacon and ,onions3 ,fry crisp a pound of streaky bacon1 take up and keep warm4 ,make the fat bubble all over1 lay in it a steak1 wiped clean1 seasoned with salt and pepper1 and dredged lightly with flour4 ,sear it well on both sides--take from the fat1 lay on broiler1 and cook for ten minutes1 turning once4 ,serve thus if you like it rare--if contrariwise you want it well done1 set the steak on a rack or broiler in a hot oven1 and let it cook there for fifteen to twenty minutes1 according to thickness4 ,meantime dredge more flour into the fat1 let it brown a minute1 then lay in large1 mild onions thinly sliced4 ,fry to a light brown1 and serve around the steak4 ,serve the gravy separately1 adding to it just before taking up1 a little hot water1 and shaking the pan well4 ,this may be varied by frying with the onions or instead of them1 sliced tomatoes1 and green peppers finely shredded4 ,or cut large1 very meaty tomatoes1 unpeeled1 into thick slices1 pour off the gravy1 lay them in the hot1 greasy pan1 season well with pepper and salt1 and cook five minutes1 turning them and seasoning the other side4 ,lay the bacon on the tomatoes--otherwise put it around the steak outside the onions4 ,boned ,fresh ,ham3 ,it had better not be too big--ten pounds is about the limit4 ,have the bone removed1 but do not throw it away4 ,instead break it in pieces and boil them three hours in water to barely cover4 ,wipe the ham well inside and out1 rub the inside over lightly with butter1 season with salt and pepper1 and pour in a little vinegar4 ,rub salt well over the outside and let stand on ice several hours4 ,make a stuffing of grated breadcrumbs1 with minced pork fat1 a sprig of celery chopped fine1 half an apple1 also chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 paprika1 a pinch of sage in powder1 and the least shred of thyme and lemon peel4 ,a chestnut stuffing can be used1 or one whose foundation is grated sweet potato4 ,fill the bone cavity1 firmly but not too full1 skewer or sew together the cut edges1 and tie around twice with narrow tape4 ,turn over1 score the skin well1 rub it with soft butter or bacon fat1 dredge lightly with flour1 then with black and red pepper1 also lightly with sugar1 and lay on a low rack in a pan4 ,fill in sweet cider1 or sound claret till it stands halfway up to the ham1 cover with a close-fitting upper pan1 and put into a hot oven4 ,cook for two hours1 lifting the pan now and then1 and basting the meat4 ,uncover1 and make very1 very crisp4 ,serve on a hot dish1 with candied sweet potatoes laid around4 ,add boiling water to the liquor in the pan1 shake it well about1 and pour into a gravy boat4 ,or pour off the grease1 add a sprinkle of flour1 let it brown on top the stove1 and put to it the strained liquor the bone was boiled in4 ,cook three minutes1 and serve in the gravy boat4 ,if the bone liquor is not used this way1 make it the foundation of pea or cabbage soup4 ,in carving cut through and through so as to serve the stuffing with each portion4 ,roast ,beef3 ,scrape and wash clean1 wipe dry1 sear cut sides well1 either in bubbling fat1 or under gas flame1 set on a small rack in a deep pan1 sprinkle well with salt and pepper1 dredge on flour scantly1 pour water underneath till it stands half an inch deep1 cover close1 set in a hot oven and cook until tender4 ,basting will not be needed until the pan is uncovered--then add a little more water1 boiling hot1 baste thoroughly1 return to oven1 and brown4 ,if you like1 add sliced tomatoes1 minced onions1 shredded green peppers1 carrots cut small1 and very tender green peas after uncovering--they will cook while the meat is browning1 and can be served all together in a separate dish4 ,pot ,roast3 ,wash and dry1 then brown lightly all over in hot bacon fat1 and lay upon a small rack in the bottom of a deep pot1 seasoning well with salt1 pepper1 and paprika4 ,pour on a little ,cayenne1 vinegar1 add a spoonful of hot fat1 then pour in enough boiling water to come half way up the meat1 cover tight1 and simmer until tender4 ,an hour before serving time1 put any sort of vegetables approved1 or at hand1 carrots1 sliced1 peas1 string beans1 lima beans1 potatoes in thick slices1 into the browning fat1 let them cook five to ten minutes1 sprinkling them well with salt and pepper1 then skim out of the fat1 and add to the pot1 along with a cupful more boiling water4 ,simmer until the water is all gone1 and the meat is brown4 ,take up1 lay vegetables around the meat1 or make a bed of them for it1 add a little more hot water to the pot1 stir well over the fire till it takes up the meat essence1 then pour it over meat and vegetables1 else serve in a gravy boat4 ,leg of ,mutton in ,blanket3 ,make deep1 narrow gashes in the thick end of a clean leg of mutton1 crowd into them a mixed seasoning1 salt1 red and black pepper1 minced onion1 a little dry mustard1 and powdered herbs4 ,brush all over with melted butter1 or soft bacon fat1 then sprinkle lightly with salt1 set on a rack in a roasting pan1 and pop into a very hot oven4 ,let it brown--then rub over it any tart jelly melted in a little hot water1 and envelop it in a crust of flour and water1 made very stiff1 and rolled half an inch thick4 ,pinch the edges tight together1 lay back in the pan1 cover it1 and bake in a hot oven4 ,take up1 break the blanket carefully on top1 lift out the meat1 and pour the gravy from the envelop into a small sauce pan1 add to it either hot claret1 or a spoonful of tart jelly1 along with tabasco or ,worcester sauce1 boil up1 and serve in a boat4 ,tomato or walnut catsup may be used for flavoring4 ,indeed one sometimes finds opportunity a close second to inspiration4 ,the ,preparation of ,poultry and ,game3 ,pick carefully1 draw and singe every manner of poultry and feathered game1 wash clean1 quickly1 in cold water1 never hot1 drain1 then wipe as dry as possible with a soft1 thick1 damp cloth--it takes up moisture cleaner than a dry one4 ,keep very cold and away from smells until ready to cook4 ,tilt roasting fowls1 so they may drain1 if liquid gathers4 ,before stuffing rub over the whole inside lightly with soft butter or bacon fat1 pepper it scantly1 and rub on a very little salt4 ,grease and season the outside after stuffing is done1--never before it4 ,if game is shot-torn1 soak for ten minutes in weak salt water after plucking1 rinse in cold salt water1 wipe dry and drain4 ,furred game1 as rabbits1 squirrels1 possums1 ought to be drawn before it is cold1 if you would have the finest flavor4 ,this is especially necessary with possums--which should be bought alive1 and fattened for several weeks in a clean cage1 feeding them on bread1 milk1 apples1 potatoes1 cabbage leaves1 and grass4 ,this makes them tender and much more delicate in flavor4 ,kill by dislocating the neck with a quick1 upward jerk1 then cut the throat and hang to bleed4 ,roll after dampening fur well in very hot embers--then scrape the same as a pig1 draw1 and hang to cool4 ,divide the skin of rabbits and squirrels around the middle1 and pull off each half1 the same as a kid glove4 ,thus no hairs stick on the clean flesh4 ,draw very quickly1 wipe lightly with a damp cloth1 and hang where it is cool and airy for at least an hour4 ,roast ,turkey3 ,make a stuffing of stale bread4 ,cut the crusts from a small loaf1 grate the crumb1 brown crusts crisp1 crush1 sift and mix well with the gratings4 ,shred finely through it four ounces fresh suet1 and a lump of butter the size of an egg4 ,add a tiny heart of celery cut small1 half a tart apple also cut fine1 two dozen fat raisins1 seeded1 halved1 and soaked for twelve hours in whiskey to cover1 salt1 pepper1 and paprika to taste4 ,mix well1 stuff the turkey but not too tight4 ,put a handful in the crop space1 and fasten the skin neatly over4 ,truss your turkey firmly1 rub all over with soft fat1 then sprinkle with salt and pepper1 and set upon a rack in a deep roasting pan1 pour half an inch of water in the bottom1 cover tight1 put in a hot oven1 and roast for an hour1 then slack heat and finish4 ,the turkey will brown thus covered1 and be tenderer and sweeter than if crisped uncovered4 ,the pan will hold gravy better than can be made otherwise4 ,roast chickens or capons in exactly the same way4 ,geese need to be roasted more slowly and to have a seasoning of sage1 onion1 and tart apple in the stuffing1 instead of raisins4 ,the dry stuffing takes up the juices of the fowl1 and is much more flavorous1 and less pasty than that which is wet before use4 ,guinea ,hen in ,casserole3 ,stick six cloves in a cored and pared apple1 thrust a heart of celery in the core space1 then fit it inside a guinea hen1 buttered1 salted and peppered inside4 ,pack in grated bread crumbs--all there is space for4 ,truss1 grease1 season1 set in a hot oven1 and brown lightly all over1 then lay in a casserole on a bed of sliced carrots1 young green peas1 shredded green peppers1 sliced tomatoes and tiny onions1 parboiled for five minutes4 ,add a large lump of butter1 rolled in flour1 a cup of hot water or weak broth1 cover close1 and cook an hour in a hot oven4 ,serve on the vegetables1 bedded firmly1 with tart jelly melted to barely run1 splashed over the breast4 ,chickens in ,blankets3 ,take young fat chickens about three pounds weight1 dress as for roasting1 put inside each a peeled sweet potato1 and a small lump of butter1 after greasing and seasoning inside and out4 ,lay on low rack in deep pan1 brown lightly in oven1 then fit close over each a round of good short crust1 rolled a quarter-inch thick4 ,return to oven--when crust is a rich brown the chickens will be done4 ,serve crust with each portion--thereby recalling a glorified chicken pie4 ,fried ,chicken3 ,cut into joints two tender young chickens1 wipe the pieces dry1 season with salt and pepper1 red and black1 then set on ice4 ,fry a pound of streaky bacon in a deep skillet1 take out when crisp1 roll chicken in flour1 dip in beaten egg1 then roll again1 and lay in the fat1 which must be bubbling hot1 but not scorching4 ,cook1 turning often1 to a rich brown1 take out1 then pile in a pan1 set the pan over another with boiling water in the bottom1 and put all in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes4 ,this cooks the chicken through and through without making it hard4 ,the pieces must not touch in frying so there will be two skilletfuls4 ,when all the chicken is fried1 and in the oven1 dredge in more flour1 stir it well through the fat1 then add a cup of cream1 stirring hard all the time1 and letting it barely simmer--boiling curdles it4 ,or if you want a full-cream gravy1 pour off the fat1 stir the cream in double quantity in the skillet to take up the flavors1 then pour it in a double boiler1 add pepper1 salt1 minced celery1 a little onion juice1 and one at a time1 lumps of butter1 rolled well in flour4 ,cook until thick and rich1 and serve in a gravy boat4 ,smothered ,chicken3 ,get two pound broilers fat and tender1 have them split down the back1 make clean1 season by buttering inside and out1 sprinkling with salt1 pepper and paprika1 and dredging with flour4 ,lay breasts down1 upon a low rack in a deep pan1 cover with slices of streaky bacon1 shingling the slices well4 ,dredge with pepper and flour1 lay in sliced tomatoes1 shredded green peppers1 and a few small parboiled onions4 ,add lumps of butter rolled in flour1 dotting them all about the bacon4 ,pour in enough water to barely reach the top of the rack1 cover the pan close1 and cook in a hot oven1 about an hour4 ,uncover after three-quarters of an hour1 add a half-cup more water--this is for the gravy4 ,cover again1 and finish cooking4 ,the chickens should be brown all over but meltingly tender4 ,take up on a hot dish1 breaking the bacon slices as little as possible4 ,serve the vegetables separate1 also the gravy from the pan4 ,the vegetables can be omitted1 and smothered chicken still be a dish to rejoice an epicure4 ,glorified ,chicken ,croquets3 7,mrs4 ,g4 ,h4 ,patch47 ,boil a large-size tender young chicken till the meat almost drops from the bones4 ,boil likewise tender1 in salt water1 one pound either sweetbreads or calf brains4 ,pick up the chicken and grind the meat fine1 then mash it well together with the brains or sweetbreads1 and season to taste4 ,put into a double boiler half-pint cream1 tablespoonful butter1 two tablespoonfuls flour1 one tablespoonful parsley chopped fine1 one teaspoonful onion juice1 one teaspoonful salt1 black and ,cayenne pepper to taste4 ,cook smooth1 stirring hard1 let thicken1 then add the meat1 and mix thoroughly4 ,let cool1 shape into croquets1 dip in egg1 roll in cracker crumbs1 and fry quickly in deep hot fat4 ,chicken-,turkey ,hash3 ,cut the meat small1 freeing of skin and gristle4 ,if there is rich gravy left1 put it into a skillet1 and cook tender in it1 half a dozen sliced tomatoes1 three shredded green peppers1 a small sliced onion1 and a cupful of raw potato cubes4 ,lacking gravy1 cook in butter or bacon fat1 and season to taste--gravy requires less seasoning than plain fat4 ,add the meat1 pour in a cup of boiling water1 stir all well together1 and cook for five minutes4 ,serve in a hot dish lined with thin toast4 ,fine for breakfast1 or a very late supper4 ,rabbit or ,squirrel ,smothered3 ,leave whole1 rub over with fat1 season highly1 lay in a pan or skillet1 with slices of bacon1 add a cup of hot water1 cover close1 set over the fire1 and simmer until tender4 ,uncover1 and brown in the gravy1 adding a little ,cayenne vinegar at the very last4 ,rabbit or ,squirrel ,barbecued3 ,leave whole1 skewer flat1 grease all over1 lay on rack in pan1 and roast in hot oven1 basting every five minutes with hot salt water4 ,when crisp1 take up and serve with the sauce directed for barbecued lamb4 ,quail3 ,smother quail the same as rabbits4 ,i like them better halved1 and fried crisp and quickly1 in deep hot bacon fat4 ,but to make the most of them1 a pie's the thing4 ,the crust must be rich and rolled a quarter-inch thick4 ,put in the birds whole1 seasoning them well inside and out1 with salt and black pepper4 ,put in also generous lumps of butter rolled in flour1 slices of fat bacon1 strips of crust an inch wide and three inches long1 a little minced onion1 celery or shredded green pepper if the flavors are approved1 and a tiny pod of ,cayenne pepper4 ,pour in cold water till it stands half way up the birds4 ,be sure the cover-crust is plenty big--pinch it down tight1 prick and make a cross-cut at the center into which a tubelet of paper must be thrust to prevent the gravy's boiling over4 ,bake three-quarters of an hour1 in a hot oven4 ,take up1 and serve very hot4 ,a gill of hot cream poured in through a funnel after taking up suits some palates--mine is not among them4 ,other folks like a wineglass of sherry made very hot4 ,wild ,duck3 ,if likely to be fishy1 soak an hour in vinegar and water made very salt1 and roast with an onion inside stuck very full of cloves4 ,season inside and out1 rub over with fat or butter1 and roast in quick heat1 to the degree required4 ,ducks or geese mild in flavor should be roasted with a tart apple stuck with cloves inside1 also a mild onion4 ,rub over with fat1 season with salt and pepper inside and out1 and strew inside lightly a small pinch of powdered sage4 ,a good sauce for them is made by browning half a cup of grated bread crumbs in a tablespoonful of butter1 adding to it a spoonful of tart jelly1 a wineglass of claret1 a tablespoonful of tomato catsup1 with seasoning to taste of salt and pepper4 ,possum ,roasted3 ,chill thoroughly after scraping and drawing4 ,save all the inside fat1 let it soak in weak salt water until cooking time1 then rinse it well1 and partly try it out in the pan before putting in the possum4 ,unless he is huge1 leave him whole1 skewering him flat1 and laying him skin side up in the pan4 ,set in a hot oven and cook until crisply tender1 taking care there is no scorching4 ,roast a dozen good sized sweet potatoes--in ashes if possible1 if not1 bake them covered in a deep pan4 ,peel when done1 and lay while hot around the possum1 turning them over and over in the abundant gravy4 ,he should have been lightly salted when hung up1 and fully seasoned1 with salt1 pepper1 and a trifle of mustard1 when put down to cook4 ,dish him in a big platter1 lay the potatoes1 which should be partly browned1 around him1 add a little boiling water to the pan1 shake well around1 and pour the gravy over everything4 ,hot corn bread1 strong black coffee1 or else sharp cider1 and very hot sharp pickles are the things to serve with him4 ,eggs3 ,eggs demand an introductory paragraph4 ,as everybody knows1 there are eggs and eggs4 ,an egg new-laid has a tiny air-space at each end1 betwixt the shell and the silken lining membrane4 ,if left lying1 this confined air changes its locality--leaves the ends for the upmost side of the shell4 ,shells are porous--through them the white evaporates--thus the air bubble on top gets bigger and bigger4 ,by the size of it you can judge fairly the egg's age--unless it has been kept in cold storage or in water-glass4 ,by boiling hard1 throwing in cold water and peeling intact1 you can see for yourself if a fresh egg so-called is truly fresh4 ,if fresh there will be no perceptible marring of its oval--but if it shows a shrinkage1 and especially if the yolk is so near the shell it shows through the cooked white1 there is proof positive that the egg is not new-laid--though it may be perfectly wholesome4 ,eggs kept in clean cool space do not deteriorate under a month4 ,even after that1 thus well kept1 they answer for cake making1 puddings and so on4 ,but they have an ungodly affinity for taints of almost every kind4 ,hence keep them away from such things as onions1 salt fish1 things in brine generally1 or any strong ill odors4 ,duck eggs are bigger than hen eggs--eight of them being the equivalent to ten4 ,goose eggs run almost two for one4 ,turkey eggs1 rarely used in cookery1 are still excellent eating1 much better flavored than duck eggs1 which are often rather rank4 ,here as otherwheres1 food is the determining factor4 ,guinea eggs1 in spite of being so much smaller1 are equal in raising power and in richness to hen eggs4 ,indeed1 they are the best of all eggs for eating--rich1 yet delicate4 ,the only approach to them is the quail egg--we called it always a partridge egg--but only special favorites of the gods have any chance of ever tasting them4 ,quail nest frequently in wheat fields--at harvest1 the uncovered nests yielded choice spoil4 ,daddy claimed the lion's share of it for my white chilluns4 ,often he came with his big hat-crown running over full of the delicate white ovals4 ,mormonism must prevail in quail circles--sometimes there were forty eggs in a nest4 ,it would have been vandalism of the worst to eat them1 only it was no use leaving them bare to the sun1 as the birds abandoned them unless they had begun brooding4 ,in that case the mother sat so tight1 occasionally the reaper1 passing over1 took off her head4 ,more commonly she flew away just in time1 whirring up between the mules1 with a great pretense of lameness4 ,if the nest by good luck was discovered in time1 grain was left standing about it4 ,nobody grudged the yard or so of wheat lost for the sake of sport4 ,partridge eggs were boiled hard1 and eaten out of hand--they were much too thin-shelled for roasting1 in spite of having a very tough lining membrane4 ,with guinea eggs there was quite another story4 ,they have shells extra thick and hard--hence were laid plentifully in hot ashes1 heaped over with live coals and left as long as our patience held out4 ,when ,mammy pulled them out1 it was maddening to see her test them4 ,she laid a short broom straw delicately on each egg4 ,if it whirled round1 the egg was done--if contrariwise it fell off1 it had to go back in the embers4 ,she had no thought of letting us eat eggs not cooked till the yolk was mealy4 ,to this day ,i am firmly of opinion she was wise--and right4 ,eggs roasted as she roasted them have a flavor wholly beyond and apart from those cooked in any other way4 ,baked ,eggs3 ,these most nearly approximate the flavor of roasted ones4 ,break fresh eggs at the small ends1 drain away the whites1 break down the shells to deepish cups1 each with a yolk at bottom1 sprinkle yolks lightly with salt and pepper1 add a bit of butter to each1 then set shells upright1 close over the bottom of a pan1 pop the pan into a hot oven1 bake twenty minutes1 and serve piping hot4 ,this ,mammy gave us to keep from wasting yolks when wedding or ,christmas cake demanded many whites for frosting4 ,potato ,egg ,puffs3 ,into a quart of rich and highly seasoned mashed potatoes1 beat two eggs1 then divide into equal portions--six or eight4 ,with lightly floured hands make each portion into a ball1 set the balls in a baking dish1 then press into each a hard-boiled egg4 ,lay a bit of butter on each egg1 and dredge lightly with salt and pepper4 ,bake in a quick oven until the potato is brown and light--it ought to rise up like a fat apple4 ,egg ,dumplings3 ,cousins-germane to the puffs but richer--will serve indeed for the meat course of a plain dinner4 ,mix the potato well with half its bulk of finely chopped cold meat1 the leaner the better1 bind with beaten eggs1 then divide and roll each portion around a hard-boiled egg1 lay the dumplings in a greased and floured pan1 giving them plenty of room1 pour around them a good gravy1 or else a rich tomato sauce1 then bake ten to twenty minutes in a hot oven4 ,egg ,spread3 ,spread a flat pan an inch deep with rich mashed potato1 sprinkle with pepper and salt1 then cover the top with eggs hard boiled1 and cut in half4 ,set them yolk up4 ,put salt1 pepper and butter on each yolk1 and bake ten minutes in a warm oven4 ,or if soft eggs are preferred1 make depressions in the potato with the back of a spoon1 break an egg in each1 dust with pepper and salt1 add a dot of butter and bake five minutes4 ,if the potatoes are wanted brown1 bake them ten minutes after making the depressions1 then put in the eggs and bake soft or hard at will4 ,poached ,eggs3 ,these require a deep skillet1 three parts full of water on the bubbling boil1 which is slightly salted and well dashed with vinegar4 ,break all the eggs separately before putting one in4 ,slip them in1 one after the other1 quickly1 taking care not to break yolks1 keep the boiling hard1 and use a knife or spoon to prevent the whites from cooking together4 ,take out in six to seven minutes1 using a skimmer and draining well1 trim rags off white1 lay in a deep hot dish1 and pour over real melted butter1 made with butter1 hot water1 salt1 pepper1 lemon juice or vinegar1 and a dash of tabasco4 ,send to table covered--a poached egg chilled has lost its charm4 ,or you may serve the eggs on squares of hot1 well-buttered toast1 which have been sprinkled thickly with grated cheese1 then set for a minute inside a hot oven4 ,served thus1 pass the melted butter with them1 as if poured over1 they might be too rich for some palates4 ,egg ,fours3 ,cut hard-boiled eggs in four lengthwise1 mix yolks with an equal bulk of sardines1 drained1 freed of skin and bone1 and minced fine4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 lemon juice1 or vinegar1 and olive oil4 ,add minced olives if you like4 ,the mixture must be soft1 but not too soft to shape well4 ,shape it into small ovals1 using two spoons1 and lay an oval in each quarter of the whites4 ,put very narrow strips of pimento on the ovals1 then sprinkle them thickly with grated cheese--,edam is good for such use4 ,set in a baking dish and cook two to four minutes in a hot oven4 ,if wanted extra tasty1 as for a relish before dinner1 set the fours on narrow strips of toast1 spread with made mustard1 well-mixed with finely minced very sour cucumber pickle4 ,bacon sliced thin1 fried crisp without scorching1 and finely minced can take the place of sardines4 ,indeed1 in making fours the widest latitude prevails--you can vary flavors and proportions almost infinitely4 ,onion1 even a suspicion of garlic1 tabasco1 ,cayenne vinegar1 walnut catsup1 or ,worcester can be added4 ,capers mixed through the mass make it wonderfully piquant4 ,but things which need to be crisply fresh1 such as celery and lettuce1 must be let severely alone4 ,stuffed ,eggs3 ,staple for picnics1 and barbecues4 ,boil twenty minutes1 throw instantly in cold water1 and shell immediately4 ,halve1 mash yolks while hot with a plentiful seasoning of butter1 pepper1 salt1 a little onion juice1 capers or bigger pickle finely minced1 and pimentos cut small4 ,work the seasoning well through1 then shape into balls yolk-size1 put each between two half-whites1 and fasten together with a couple of tooth picks4 ,wrap each as finished in wax paper1 and keep cool until needed4 ,here may be a good place to say that the quicker a hard-boiled egg is got out of its shell after chilling1 the better and more delicate will be its flavor4 ,fried ,eggs3 ,anybody1 almost1 can fry an egg wrong4 ,it takes some skill to fry one exactly right4 ,have the frying pan covered with grease1 hot1 but not scorching1 slip in the eggs1 previously broken separately1 taking pains not to break yolks1 sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper1 keep edges from running together1 then when they have hardened underneath1 dip hot grease over the tops1 keeping on till the white sets4 ,if the heat is right the eggs will not stick to the pan4 ,cook as hard as is desirable1 take up with a cake-turner1 and lay in a shallow pan1 lined with soft clean paper4 ,keep hot while they drain--it takes a minute or so--then remove to a blazing hot dish1 and serve4 ,if ham goes with them lay it in the middle1 with eggs all around it4 ,triangles of fried toast in between look and taste well at breakfast4 ,illustration3 ,soups1 ,salads1 ,relishes ,vegetable ,soup3 ,cut into joints two fat chickens three parts grown1 salt and pepper1 and lay aside while you fry in a deep pot half a pound streaky bacon4 ,take out when crisp1 put in the chicken1 turning it so as to brown it all over4 ,put in a thick slice of ham1 let it also brown a bit1 do the same with four sliced onions--mild ones--then add two gallons cold water1 half a teaspoonful salt1 two pods red pepper1 a dozen whole pepper corns1 and two sprigs of parsley4 ,keep at a gentle boil for an hour1 then put in two small heads of tender cabbage finely shredded1 and six white potatoes1 peeled and sliced a quarter-inch thick4 ,fifteen minutes later put in a quart of string beans1 broken short1 a pint of shelled lima beans1 a stalk of celery cut fine lengthwise1 and a dozen tomatoes1 peeled and sliced4 ,follow them in ten minutes with a pint of tender okra sliced--next add a little later the pulp from a dozen ears of green corn1 slit lengthwise and scraped4 ,stir almost constantly with a long-handled skimmer1 after the corn pulp is in4 ,if the skimmer brings up chicken bones1 throw them aside4 ,just before serving put in a large spoonful of butter1 rolled in flour4 ,taste1 add salt if required4 ,serve very hot with corn hoe cake and cider just beginning to sparkle4 ,if there is soup enough for everybody1 nothing else will be wanted4 ,black ,turtle ,bean ,soup3 ,pick and wash clean1 one quart black turtle beans1 soak overnight in three quarts cold water1 and put on to boil next morning in the soaking water4 ,when it boils add three onions sliced1 one carrot scraped and cut up1 a stalk or so of celery1 three sprigs of parsley1 and one tomato1 fresh or canned4 ,boil slowly four to five hours1 until the beans are tender1 filling up with cold water as that in the kettle wastes4 ,when the beans are very soft1 strain all through a fine collander1 mashing through beans and vegetables1 add a quart of very good soup stock1 also a bay leaf1 and boil up hard half a minute before serving4 ,put into each soup plate a slice of lemon1 a slice of hard-boiled egg1 and a tablespoonful of sherry wine before adding the soup4 ,gumbo3 ,cut a tender1 fat chicken1 nearly grown1 into joints1 season well with salt and pepper1 and fry for ten minutes in the fat from half a pound of bacon1 with two thick slices of ham4 ,then add two onions chopped fine1 six large ripe tomatoes1 peeled and chopped1 adding with them their juice1 half a large pod of mild red pepper1 cut small1 a teaspoonful of minced thyme and parsley mixed1 a pint of tender sliced okra1 stemmed and cut lengthwise4 ,cook altogether1 watching all the time1 and stirring constantly to prevent scorching until everything is well-browned4 ,then add three quarts fresh-boiled water1 on the full boil1 set the pot where it will barely simmer1 and cook an hour longer1 taking the same pains against scorching4 ,rice to eat with the gumbo--it must never be cooked in the pot--needs to be washed until the water runs clear from it1 drained1 then tossed into a wide kettle of water on the bubbling boil1 and cooked for twenty minutes4 ,the water must be salted to taste4 ,drain the rice in a collander1 set it after draining in the oven for a minute4 ,the grains should stand out separate1 but be very tender4 ,rice thus cooked1 and served with plenty of butter1 is excellent as a vegetable4 ,wedding ,salad3 ,roast unstuffed1 three young tender turkeys1 or six full grown chickens4 ,take the white meat only1 cut it fine with shears1 cutting across the grain1 while hot4 ,let cool1 then mix it with ten hearts of crisp celery cut in bits1 two heads of tender white cabbage1 finely chopped1 rejecting hard stalks--use three heads if very small--and set in a cool place4 ,for the dressing boil thirty fresh eggs twenty minutes1 throw in cold water1 shell1 take out the yolks1 saving the white for garnishing1 mash the yolks while hot very smooth with a pound and a half of best butter1 season them well with salt1 pepper1 a little dry mustard1 celery seed1 and1 if at hand1 a dash of walnut catsup1 but not enough to discolor4 ,add also a teaspoonful of sugar--this to blend flavors only4 ,add a little at a time enough warm vinegar to make as thick as cream4 ,chill1 and pour over the salad1 mix well through1 then heap it in a big glass bowl1 lined with partly white lettuce leaves1 make a wreath of leaves around the top1 and in serving1 lay a larger lettuce leaf on each plate1 filling it with the yellow-white salad4 ,fruit ,salad3 ,wash well a very ripe juicy pineapple1 let dry1 then shred with a fork1 holding the crown in the left hand firmly1 while you pull away sections with the fork in the right4 ,thus you avoid taking any of the hard center4 ,peel the sections delicately after they are separated1 and cut them in long thin slivers1 with the grain4 ,arrange these slivers star-shape upon lettuce leaves in the plates1 lay a very narrow slip of pimento--sweet red pepper1--between each two of them1 then fill in the points of the stars with grape-fruit pulp1 freed of skin and seed1 and broken into convenient sized bits4 ,lay more pimento strips upon it4 ,set on ice till ready to serve1 then drench with sweet ,french dressing4 ,sweet ,french ,dressing3 ,mix well a scant teaspoonful of granulated sugar1 the same of dry mustard1 half a teaspoonful salt1 as much black pepper and paprika mixed1 put in the bottom of a deep small bowl1 and stir for two minutes4 ,wet with claret vinegar1 adding it gradually1 and stirring smooth4 ,make as thick as cream4 ,add twenty drops tabasco1 twenty drops onion juice1 the strained juice of half a lemon1 and half a teaspoonful of brandy1 rum or whiskey4 ,mix well1 then add1 tablespoonful at a time1 a gill of salad oil1 stirring hard between spoonfuls4 ,put in more vinegar1 more oil--the seasoning suffices for half a pint of dressing4 ,stir till it thickens--it should be like an emulsion when poured upon the salad4 ,keep on ice4 ,the oil and vinegar will separate1 but the dressing can be brought back by stirring hard4 ,banana and ,celery ,salad3 ,chill heart celery and very ripe bananas1 slice thin crosswise1 mingling the rounds well4 ,pile on lettuce leaves1 and cover with ,french dressing1 into which finely grated cheese has been scantly stirred4 ,this dressing with cheese is fine for tender ,romaine1 also for almost any sort of cooked vegetable used as salad4 ,red and ,white ,salad3 ,make cups from lettuce hearts1 fasten them to the plate1 with a drop of melted butter1 fill lightly with grape-fruit pulp1 and set a tiny red beet1 boiled tender1 in the middle4 ,have a very sharp ,french dressing made with oil lemon juice and ,tarragon vinegar4 ,pass with this cheese straws1 or toasted cracker sprinkled lightly with ,parmesan cheese4 ,pineapple ,salad3 ,pare and core a very ripe1 sweet pineapple1 cut in slices crosswise1 lay the slices in a bowl1 with a sprinkle of sugar1 half a cup rum or sherry1 all the juice shed in cutting up1 and a grate of nutmeg4 ,let stand till morning1 cool1 but not on ice4 ,make rosettes of small lettuce leaves in the plates1 lay a slice of pineapple on each1 fill the hole in the center with pink pimento cheese4 ,make the cheese into a ball the size of a marble1 and stick in it a tiny sprig of celery top4 ,put a little of the syrup from the bowl in each plate1 then finish with very sharp ,french dressing4 ,make the pimento cheese by grinding fine half a can of pimento1 and mixing it through two cakes of cream cheese1 softening the cheese with ,french dressing1 and seasoning it to taste4 ,cold ,slaw3 7,v4 ,moroso47 ,shave very fine half a medium sized head of tender cabbage1 put in a bowl1 and cover with this dressing4 ,melt over hot water a heaping tablespoonful of butter1 with two tablespoonfuls sugar1 a saltspoon of pepper1 a teaspoonful of salt1 dash of red pepper1 and scant teaspoonful dry mustard4 ,mix smooth1 then add gradually four tablespoonfuls vinegar1 mix well1 then put in the yolk of a raw egg1 beating it in hard4 ,cook till creamy1 but not too thick4 ,take from fire1 and add if you like1 two tablespoonfuls cream1 but it is not essential--the dressing is good without it4 ,tomato ,soy3 ,take one gallon solid1 ripe tomatoes1 peeled and sliced1 or four canfuls put up in glass1 put in a preserving kettle with a quart of sliced onions1 two tablespoonfuls salt1 as much moist sugar1 teaspoonful black pepper1 saltspoon paprika1 four hearts of celery cut fine1 a tablespoonful of pounded cloves1 alspice1 mace1 grated nutmeg1 and cinnamon mixed4 ,stir well together and cook slowly1 taking care not to burn1 until reduced one-half4 ,dry mustard or mustard seed can be added1 but many palates do not relish them4 ,after boiling down add a quart of very sharp vinegar1 stir well through1 skim if froth rises1 bottle hot1 and seal4 ,this keeps a long time in a dark cool place4 ,table ,mustard3 ,mix well together two tablespoonfuls dry mustard1 scant teaspoon sugar1 half a teaspoon salt4 ,wet smooth1 to a very stiff paste with boiling water1 then add either a teaspoon of onion juice1 or a clove of garlic mashed1 stir well through1 add little by little1 a tablespoonful olive oil1 then thin1 with very sharp vinegar1 added gradually so as not to lump nor curdle1 to the consistency of thin cream4 ,put in a glass jar1 seal tight and let stand a week4 ,a month is better--indeed1 the mustard improves with age if not permitted to dry up4 ,cabbage ,pickle3 ,shred enough tender cabbage to make four quarts1 put with it four large green tomatoes1 sliced thin1 six large onions1 chopped fine1 three green peppers also chopped1 rejecting the seed1 two ounces white mustard seed1 half-ounce celery seed1 quarter-ounce turmeric1 three tablespoonfuls salt1 two pounds white sugar1 two quarts vinegar4 ,put all in a preserving kettle1 set it upon an asbestos mat over a slow fire1 and cook gently for several hours1 stirring so it shall not scorch4 ,it must be tender throughout but not mushy-soft4 ,cauliflower ,pickle3 ,drop two heads cauliflower in salted boiling water1 cook fifteen minutes1 take up1 drop in cold water1 separate into neat florets1 and pack down in a clean crock4 ,pour upon the florets1 hot1 a quart of vinegar1 seasoned with a mixture of two tablespoonfuls salad oil1 teaspoonful dry mustard1 tablespoonful sugar1 teaspoonful salt1 half-teaspoonful onion juice1 half-teaspoonful black pepper1 dash of paprika1 ten drops tabasco4 ,bring all to a boil1 and pour over the pickle1 first strewing well through it blade mace1 whole cloves1 alspice and cinnamon1 broken small but not powdered4 ,pear ,relish3 ,wash and stem a gallon of sound ripe1 but not mellow ,seckel pears1 remove the blossoms with a very sharp narrow pen-knife1 and stick a clove in each cut4 ,drain1 and drop into a syrup1 made of three pounds of sugar and a quart of vinegar4 ,bring to a quick boil1 skim1 and set back to simmer4 ,add after skimming1 cloves1 alspice1 mace1 ginger1 cinnamon1 and black pepper1 pounded small but not powdered4 ,cut up a large sweet red pepper1 and drop in the shreds4 ,let cook till the pears are tender4 ,if the syrup is thin1 add more sugar--some pears yield more juice than others4 ,sliced lemon gives a piquant tang1 but is optional4 ,put in glass or stone jars1 and cover tight1 laying a brandy paper on top4 ,cherries ,piquant3 ,wash well1 and stem but do not pit1 half a gallon ripe ,morello cherries4 ,drain well1 strew spices well through them1 lay thin sliced lemon on top1 add a dozen whole pepper corns1 and a tiny pod of ,cayenne pepper1 then pour over a pint of sharp vinegar1 boiled with four pounds of sugar1 and skimmed clean4 ,let stand all night1 drain off syrup in the morning1 boil up1 skim1 and pour again over the fruit4 ,next day1 put all in a kettle1 and cook for fifteen minutes1 then put in glass jars1 seal and keep dark4 ,especially good with game or any meat highly seasoned4 ,gooseberry ,jam ,spiced3 ,wash1 and nub half a gallon of green gooseberries1 picked just before they ripen4 ,put them in a kettle with six large cups of sugar1 a cup of water1 half a teaspoonful each of cloves1 alspice1 mace1 grated nutmeg1 and cinnamon1 the grated yellow peel of an orange and the strained juice4 ,cook slowly until thick--it should jelly when dropped on a plate4 ,pack in small jars4 ,one of the very finest accompaniments to any sort of fowl4 ,by leaving out the spices1 and merely cooking the berries thick enough to cut like cheese1 it is as fine as bar le duc for serving with salad4 ,frozen ,cranberry ,sauce3 7,mrs4 ,r4 ,heim47 ,gives a new tang to game1 roast turkey1 capon or duck4 ,cook a quart of cranberries until very soft in one pint water1 strain through coarse sieve1 getting all the pulp1 add to it one and a half pints sugar1 the juice--strained--of four lemons1 one quart boiling water1 bring to a boil1 skim clean1 let cool1 and freeze rather soft4 ,apple ,sauce ,gone ,to ,heaven3 ,thus a poet names it1 though ,i1 the architect thereof1 insist that it is wholly and beautifully mundane4 ,to make it1 pare eight firm apples1 the higher-flavored the better1 core1 drop into cold water1 as pared1 let stand till you make the syrup4 ,take a cup of sugar to each two apples and a cup of water to each two cups of sugar4 ,bring to a boil1 skim1 clean twice1 then throw in half a dozen blades of mace1 bits of thin yellow peel from two lemons1 a few bits of stick cinnamon1 and one pepper corn--no more4 ,stick four cloves in each apple1 drop them in the syrup1 which must be on the bubbling boil4 ,after the apples are in--they should just cover the pan1 add the strained juice of two lemons4 ,boil hard for five minutes1 turn over the apples1 simmer till done--they will look clear all through4 ,skim out with a perforated ladle1 letting all syrup drain away from them1 arrange in a deepish glass dish1 or pile on a glass platter4 ,boil the syrup until it jellies when dropped on a plate1 then dip it by spoonfuls over the apples1 letting it harden as it is dipped4 ,another way1 and easier1 is to wash and core the apples1 without peeling1 stick in the cloves1 put in an earthen or agate baking dish1 add the sugar1 water1 spices1 cover close1 and set in a hot oven4 ,cook until the apples are soft through1 then uncover1 and crisp a little on top4 ,the peel will be edible1 and the flavor richer than when boiled1 but the dish is not so decorative4 ,spiced ,grapes3 ,wash and drain sound full-ripe grapes1 pick from the stems1 then pop out the grapes singly from the hulls4 ,save the hulls and juice4 ,put the pulp and seeds over the fire1 cook until soft1 strain through a colander to remove the seed1 then add the pulp to the hulls and juice1 put all over the fire1 with equal weight of sugar1 and spices to taste4 ,i like cloves1 alspice1 mace and cinnamon1 all pounded small1 but not powdered4 ,cook until thick1 take care not to burn1 put into glasses like jelly1 and serve with any sort of meat1 or as a sweet4 ,wild grapes washed1 picked from stems1 stewed and passed through a colander1 furnish a pulp that is worth sugar1 spices and so on4 ,cook as directed for vineyard grapes4 ,by leaving out the most part of spices1 and putting in vinegar1 a cupful to the quart of syrup1 the result is a very piquant jelly1 or more properly1 fruit cheese4 ,sweet-,sour ,pears3 ,the pears must be ripe1 but very firm4 ,if large1 pare and quarter1 cutting out the core1 stick a clove in each quarter1 and drop as pared in cold ginger tea4 ,if small or medium1 wash instead of paring1 take out cores1 stick two cloves in each cavity1 pack close in the kettle and cover when all are in with strained ginger tea4 ,boil in the tea fifteen minutes1 until a fork will pierce without too much exertion4 ,skim out then1 pack in jars1 strewing spices liberally through1 then cover with vinegar boiling hot1 to which you had added a cupful of sugar for each quart4 ,let stand twenty-four hours1 drain off1 boil1 and pour over again4 ,do this three times1 then put all in the kettle1 bring to a boil1 cook five minutes1 and put while hot in clean stone jars4 ,spiced ,plums3 ,all manner of plums1 even the red wild fruit1 make the finest sort of relishes when cooked properly4 ,wash1 pick1 and weigh1 take four pounds of sugar to five of fruit1 with what spices you choose1 never forgetting a tiny pod of ,cayenne pepper1 put all over the fire1 let boil slowly1 skimming off froth4 ,stir with a perforated skimmer--it will take out the most part of stones4 ,a few stones left in give a fine bitter almond flavor after the plums have stood a while4 ,take care not to scorch1 cook until very thick1 then add strong vinegar1 a cupful to the half-gallon of fruit4 ,boil three minutes longer1 put hot into well-scalded jars1 lay brandy paper over1 or seal with paraffin4 ,baked ,peaches3 ,especially fine with barbecued lamb or roast duck or smothered chicken4 ,peel one dozen large1 ripe1 juicy peaches1 stick two cloves in each1 set in an agate or earthen pan they will just fill1 add two cups sugar1 a tablespoonful butter1 a very little water1 and a good strewing of mace and lemon peel4 ,cover close1 and bake until done4 ,serve hot4 ,instead of butter1 a gill of whiskey may be used1 putting it in just before the peaches are taken up1 and letting them stand covered until the spirit goes through them4 ,so prepared1 they are better cold than warm4 ,the pits flavor the fruit so delicately they should never be removed4 ,illustration3 ,vegetables1 ,fruit ,desserts1 ,sandwiches ,tomato ,layer3 ,peel and slice a dozen meaty tomatoes1 slice thin six mild onions1 cut the corn from half a dozen large ears1 saving the milk4 ,cover an earthen baking dish with a layer of tomatoes1 season well with salt and pepper1 also the least suspicion of sugar4 ,lay onion slices over1 sprinkle lightly with salt1 then add a layer of corn1 seasoning it with salt and a little sugar4 ,repeat till the dish is full4 ,pour over the corn milk1 the tomato juice1 and a heaping tablespoonful of melted butter4 ,bake in a hot oven half an hour1 covering it for twenty minutes1 then browning uncovered4 ,when corn is not in season1 very crisp brown bread crumbs may take its place4 ,but it should be against the law to put soft crumbs or any sort of bread uncrisped1 into cooked tomatoes4 ,a green pepper shredded and mixed through the layers adds to the flavor--for the devotees of green peppers4 ,corn ,pudding3 ,slit lengthwise the grains in eight large ears of corn1 scrape out the pulp carefully1 saving all milk that runs4 ,the corn should be full1 but not the least hard--if it has reached the dough state1 the grains will keep shape4 ,beat three eggs very light1 with half a teaspoonful salt1 a tablespoonful sugar1 plenty of black pepper1 and paprika1 half a cup of very soft butter1 and half a cup sweet cream4 ,add the corn pulp and milk1 stir well together--if too thick1 thin with a little milk4 ,pour into a pudding dish1 cover and bake ten minutes1 then uncover1 and bake until done4 ,fried ,corn3 ,fry crisp1 half-pound streaky bacon1 take up1 and put into the fat1 bubbling hot1 eight large ears of corn cut from the cob1 and seasoned with salt and black pepper4 ,add also the corn-milk1 stir well together for five minutes1 then put an asbestos mat under the skillet and let stand till the corn forms a thick brown crust over the bottom4 ,pour out1 loosen this crust with a knife1 lay on top the corn1 lay on also the crisp bacon1 and serve very hot4 ,a famous breakfast dish down south all through ,roas'in' ear time4 ,that is to say1 from ,july to ,october4 ,hulled ,corn3 ,known otherwise as lye hominy1 and samp4 ,put a pint of clean strong wood ashes into half a gallon of water1 boil twenty minutes--or until the water feels slippery4 ,let settle1 drain off the clear lye1 and pour it upon as much white flint corn1 shelled and picked1 as it will cover4 ,let stand until the hulls on the grains slip under pressure--commonly twelve to twenty-four hours4 ,drain off lye1 cover with cold water1 rubbing and scrubbing the grains between the hands1 till all are free of husks4 ,soak them in clear water1 changing it every few hours till no taste of lye remains4 ,then boil slowly in three times its bulk of water1 adding a little salt1 but not much1 until very tender4 ,a grain should mash between finger and thumb4 ,fill up as the water boils away1 and take care not to scorch4 ,cool uncovered1 and keep cool4 ,to cook1 dip out a dishful1 fry it in bubbling bacon fat as directed for corn4 ,or warm in a double boiler1 and serve with butter and sugar or cream and sugar1 as a cereal4 ,use also as a vegetable the same as rice or green corn4 ,hominy pudding1 baked brown1 and highly seasoned1 helps out a scant dinner wonderfully1 as corn is the most heating of grains1 as well as one of the most nutritious4 ,steamed ,potatoes3 ,wash clean a dozen well-grown new potatoes1 steam until a fork will pierce1 dry in heat five minutes1 then peel1 and throw into a skillet1 with a heaping tablespoonful of butter1 well-rolled in flour1 half a pint of rich milk1 ten drops onion juice1 salt and pepper to taste1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,the sauce must be bubbling when the potatoes are put in4 ,toss them in it for five minutes1 put in deep dish and pour the gravy over4 ,serve very hot4 ,candied ,sweet ,potatoes3 ,boil medium potatoes of even size1 till a fork will pierce--steaming is better though a bit more trouble--throw in cold water for a minute1 peel1 and brush over with soft butter1 then lay separately in a wide skillet1 with an inch of very rich syrup over the bottom and set over slow fire4 ,turn the potatoes often in the syrup1 letting it coat all sides4 ,keep turning them until candied and a little brown4 ,if wanted very rich put butter and lemon juice in the syrup when making it4 ,blade mace also flavors it very well4 ,tipsy ,potatoes3 ,choose rather large potatoes1 peel1 and cut across into round slices about half an inch thick4 ,pack these in a baking dish with plenty of sugar1 and butter1 mace1 yellow lemon peel1 pounded cloves1 and a single pepper corn4 ,add half a cup boiling water1 cover and bake till a fork pierces1 then uncover1 add a glass of rum1 and keep hot1 but not too hot1 until serving time4 ,or you can use half a pint of claret1 instead of the boiling water4 ,still another way1 is to mix a glass of sherry with a spoonful of cream1 and add it to the dish five minutes before it goes to table4 ,sweet cider can take the place of wine4 ,so can lemon or orange juice4 ,but to my thinking1 the ,demon ,rum1 or his elder brother whiskey1 is best of all4 ,left-over ,sweet ,potatoes3 ,peel1 slice thick1 dip in melted butter1 roll in sugar well seasoned with grated lemon peel1 and nutmeg1 lay in a pan so as not to touch and make very hot in the oven4 ,this last estate is always better than the first4 ,potato ,balls3 ,mash boiled or baked sweet potatoes smooth1 seasoning them well with salt1 pepper1 cinnamon1 a little nutmeg1 and melted butter4 ,bind with a well-beaten egg1 flour the hands1 and roll the mashed potato into balls the size of large walnuts4 ,roll the balls in fine crumbs or sifted cornmeal1 drop in deep hot fat1 fry crisp1 drain1 and use as a garnish to roast pork1 roast fowl1 or broiled ham4 ,bananas3 ,bananas are far too unfamiliar in the kitchen4 ,they can be cooked fifty ways--and in each be found excellent4 ,the very best way ,i have yet found1 is to peel1 slice in half1 lengthwise1 lay in a dish with a cover1 shake sugar over1 add a little mace1 lemon juice1 lemon peel1 and melted butter1 then bake until soft--seven to fifteen minutes in a hot oven1 according to the quantity in the dish4 ,or peel and slice1 leave unseasoned1 and lay in the pan bacon has been cooked in1 first pouring away most of the fat4 ,cook five minutes in a hot oven1 and send to table with hot bread1 crisp bacon and coffee for breakfast4 ,a thick slice of banana1 along with a thick slice of tart apple1 both very lightly seasoned1 makes a fine stuffing for squabs4 ,half a banana delicately baked1 and laid on a well-browned chop adds to looks and flavor4 ,baking ,vegetables3 ,paper bags taught me the ease and value of cooking vegetables in the oven rather than on top the stove4 ,less care is required1 less water1 rather less heat4 ,peas and lima beans1 for example1 after shelling1 should be well washed1 put in a pan with salt1 seasoning and a little water1 covered close1 and baked in a hot oven half an hour to an hour4 ,green corn is never so well cooked1 outside a paper bag1 as by laying it on a rack in a covered pan1 putting a little water underneath1 covering close and setting the pan for nine minutes in a hot oven4 ,it is sweeter and richer than even when put in cold unsalted water1 brought to a boil1 cooked one minute1 then taken up4 ,but however heat is applied1 long cooking ruins it4 ,cook till the milk is set--not a second longer4 ,green peas should have several tender mint leaves put in with them1 also sugar in proportion of a teaspoonful to half a pint of shelled peas4 ,lima beans are better flavored if the butter is put with them along with the water4 ,use only enough to make steam--say two tablespoonfuls to a fair-sized pan4 ,spinach and beet greens also bake well1 but require more water4 ,leave out salt1 adding it after draining and chopping them4 ,they take twenty to thirty minutes1 according to age4 ,all manner of fruits1 berries in especial1 cook finely in the oven4 ,put in earthen or agate ware1 with sugar1 spices and a little water1 cover close and cook half to three quarters of an hour1 according to bulk4 ,uncover then--if done take up1 if not let cook uncovered as long as needed4 ,set the baking dishes always on rack or a grid-shelf1 never on the oven bottom nor solid metal4 ,thus the danger of burning is minimized1 also the need of stirring4 ,for cauliflower au gratin1 cut the head into florets1 lay them compactly in the baking dish1 add a little water1 with salt1 pepper and butter4 ,bake covered until tender1 then shake over the grated cheese1 and set back in the oven three to five minutes4 ,tomatoes1 peeled and whole except for cutting out the eyes1 baked in a dish with a liberal seasoning of salt1 pepper1 and butter1 a strewing of sugar and a little onion juice1 look and taste wholly unlike stewed tomatoes1 common or garden variety4 ,boiling with ,bacon3 ,get a pound of streaky bacon1 cut square if possible1 scrape and wash clean1 put on in plenty of water1 with a young onion1 a little thyme and parsley1 bring to a quick boil1 throw in cold water1 skim the pot clean1 then let stand simmering for two to three hours4 ,add to it either greens--mustard1 turnip1 or dandelion or field salad1 well washed and picked1 let cook till very tender1 then skim out1 drain in a colander1 lay in a hot dish with the square of bacon on top4 ,here is the foundation of a hearty and wholesome meal4 ,the bacon by long boiling is in a measure emulsified1 and calculated to nourish the most delicate stomach rather than to upset it4 ,serve two thin slices of it with each helping of greens4 ,you should have plenty of ,cayenne vinegar1 very hot and sharp1 hot corn bread1 and cider or beer1 to go along with it4 ,string beans1 known to the south country as snaps1 never come fully to their own1 unless thus cooked with bacon4 ,even pork does not answer1 though that is far and away better than boiling and buttering or flooding with milk sauces4 ,it is the same with cabbage4 ,wash well1 halve or quarter1 boil until very tender1 drain and serve4 ,better cook as many as the pot will hold and the bacon season1 since fried cabbage1 which is chopped fine1 and tossed in bacon fat with a seasoning of pepper1 salt and vinegar1 helps out wonderfully for either breakfast1 luncheon or supper4 ,never throw away proper pot-liquor--it is a good and cheap substitute for soup on cold days4 ,heat1 and drop into it crisp bread-crusts--if they are corn bread crusts made very brown1 all the better4 ,pioneer folk throve on pot-liquor to such an extent they had a saying that it was sinful to have too much--pot-liquor and buttermilk at the same meal4 ,fruit ,desserts3 ,fruits have affinities the same as human beings4 ,witness the excellent agreement of grape fruit and rum4 ,nothing else1 not the finest liqueur1 so brings out the flavor4 ,but there are other fruits which1 conjoined to the grape fruit1 make it more than ever delicious4 ,strawberries for example4 ,they must be fine and ripe4 ,wash well1 pick1 wash again1 halve if very large1 and mix well in a bowl with grape fruit pulp1 freed of skin and seed1 and broken to berry size4 ,add sugar in layers1 then pour over a tumbler of rum1 let stand six hours on ice1 and serve with or without cream4 ,strawberries mixed with ripe fresh pineapple1 cut to berry size1 and well sweetened1 are worthy of sherry1 the best in the cellar1 and rather dry than sweet4 ,mixed with thin sliced oranges and bananas1 use sound claret--but do not put it on until just before serving--let the mixed fruits stand only in sugar4 ,strawberries alone1 go very well with claret and sugar--adding cream if you like4 ,cream1 lightly sweetened1 flavored with sherry or rum1 or a liqueur1 and whipped1 gives the last touch of perfection to a dessert of mixed fruit1 or to wine jelly1 or a cup of after-dinner coffee1 or afternoon chocolate4 ,a peach's first choice is brandy--it must be real1 therefore costly4 ,good whiskey answers1 so does rum fairly4 ,a good liqueur is better4 ,sherry blends well if the fruit is very ripe and juicy4 ,peel and slice six hours before serving1 pack down in sugar1 add the liqueur1 and let stand on ice until needed4 ,peaches cut small1 mixed with ,california grapes1 skinned and seeded1 also with grape fruit pulp broken small1 and drowned in sherry syrup1 are surprisingly good4 ,make the sherry syrup by three parts filling a glass jar with the best lump sugar1 pouring on it rather more wine than will cover it1 adding the strained juice of a lemon1 or orange1 a few shreds of yellow peel1 and a blade of mace1 then setting in sunshine until the sugar dissolves4 ,it should be almost like honey--no other sweetening is needed4 ,a spoonful in after-dinner coffee makes it another beverage--just as a syrup made in the same way from rum1 sugar and lemon juice1 glorifies afternoon tea4 ,white grapes halved and seeded mixed with bananas cut small1 and orange pulp1 well sweetened and topped with whipped cream1 either natural or laced with sherry1 make another easy dessert4 ,serve in tall footed glasses1 set on your finest doilies in your prettiest plates4 ,lay a flower or a gay candy upon the plate--it adds enormously to the festive effect and very little to the trouble4 ,a spoonful of rich wine jelly1 laid upon any sort of fresh fruit1 to my thinking1 makes it much better4 ,cream can be added also--but ,i do not care for it--indeed do not taste it1 nor things creamed4 ,ripe1 juicy cherries1 pitted and mixed equally with banana cubes1 then sweetened1 make a dessert my soul loves to recall4 ,not caring to eat them ,i never make ice cream1 frozen puddings1 mousses1 sherbets1 nor many of the gelatine desserts4 ,hence ,i have experimented rather widely in the kingdom of fruits4 ,this book is throughout very largely a record of experience--,i hope it may have the more value through being special rather than universal4 ,sandwiches3 ,in sandwich making mind your ,s's4 ,that is to say1 have your knife sharp1 your bread stale1 your butter soft4 ,moreover the bread must be specially made--fine grained1 firm1 not crumbly1 nor ragged4 ,cut off crusts for ordinary sandwiches--but if shaping them with cutters let it stay4 ,then you can cut to the paper-thinness requisite--otherwise that is impossible4 ,work at a roomy table spread with a clean old tablecloth over which put sheets of clean1 thick paper4 ,do your cutting on the papered surface--thus you save either turning your knife edges against a platter or sorely gashing even an old cloth4 ,keep fancy cutters all together and ready to your hand4 ,shape one kind of sandwiches all the same--thus you distinguish them easily4 ,make as many as your paper space will hold1 before stamping out any--this saves time and strength4 ,clear away the fragments from one making1 before beginning another sort1 thus avoiding possible taints and confusion4 ,lay your made sandwiches on a platter under a dry cloth with a double damp one on top of it4 ,they will not dry out1 and it is much easier than wrapping in oiled paper4 ,the nearer fillings approach the consistency of soft butter1 the better4 ,in making sardine sandwiches1 boil the eggs hard1 mash the yolks smooth while hot1 softening them with either butter or salad dressing--,french dressing of course4 ,it is best made with lemon juice and very sharp vinegar for such use4 ,work into the eggs1 the sardines freed of skin and bone after draining well1 and mashed as fine as possible4 ,a little of their oil may be added if the flavor is liked4 ,but lemon juice is better4 ,rub the mixture smooth with the back of a stout wooden spoon1 and pack close in a bowl so it shall not harden4 ,pimento cheese needs to be softened with ,french dressing1 until like creamed butter4 ,the finer the pimento is ground the better4 ,spread evenly upon the buttered bread1 lay other buttered bread upon it1 and pile square4 ,when the pile gets high enough1 cut through into triangles or finger shapes1 and lay under the damp cloth4 ,slice ,swiss cheese very thin with a sharp knife1 season lightly with salt and paprika1 and lay between the buttered slices4 ,lettuce dressed with oil and lemon juice and lightly sprinkled with ,parmesan cheese makes a refreshing afternoon sandwich4 ,ham needs to be ground fine--it must be boiled well of course--seasoned lightly with made mustard1 pepper1 and lemon juice1 softened a bit with clear oil or butter1 and spread thin4 ,tongue must be treated the same way1 else boiled very1 very tender1 skinned before slicing1 and sliced paper-thin4 ,rounds of it inside shaped sandwiches are likely to surprise--and please--masculine palates4 ,for the shaped sandwich--leaf or star1 or heart1 or crescent1 is the happy home1 generally1 of all the fifty-seven varieties of fancy sandwich fillings1 sweet and sour1 mushy and squshy1 which make an honest mouthful of natural flavor1 a thing of joy4 ,yet this is not saying novelty in sandwiches is undesirable4 ,contrariwise it is welcome as summer rain4 ,in witness1 here is a filling from the far ,philippines1 which albeit ,i have not tried it out yet1 sounds to me enticing1 and has further the vouching of a cook most excellent4 ,grate fine as much ,edam or pineapple cheese as requisite1 season well with paprika1 add a few grains of black pepper1 wet with sherry to the consistency of cream1 and spread between buttered bread4 ,if it is nut bread so much the better4 ,nut bread is made thus4 ,nut ,bread for ,sandwiches3 7,mrs4 ,petre47 ,beat two eggs very light1 with a scant teaspoonful salt1 half cup sugar1 and two cups milk4 ,sift four cups flour twice with four teaspoonfuls baking powder4 ,mix with eggs and milk1 stir smooth1 add one cup nuts finely chopped1 let raise for twenty minutes1 in a double pan1 and bake in a moderately quick oven4 ,do not try to slice until perfectly cold--better wait till next day1 keeping the bread where it will not dry out4 ,slice very thin1 after buttering4 ,makes sandwiches of special excellence with any sort of good filling4 ,illustration3 ,pickles1 ,preserves1 ,coffee1 ,tea1 ,chocolate ,brine for ,pickling3 ,use rain water if possible and regular picking salt--it is coarse and much stronger than cooking salt4 ,lacking rain water1 soften other water by dissolving in it the day beforehand1 a pinch of washing soda--this neutralizes largely the mineral contents4 ,put over the fire in a deep1 clean kettle1 bring to a boil1 put in salt--a pint to the gallon of water is the usual proportion4 ,boil and skim1 add a pinch of saltpeter and tablespoonful of sugar for each pint of salt--the pinches must not be large4 ,add also six whole cloves for each gallon4 ,take from fire1 let cool1 drop in an egg--it should float to show the size of a quarter of a dollar4 ,otherwise the brine needs more salt4 ,dissolve a pint extra in as little water as suffices1 and add to the brine1 then test again4 ,put the brine when cold into a clean1 roomy vessel1 a keg or barrel1 else a big stone crock4 ,it should not quite half fill it4 ,provide a heading that will float upon it1 also a light weight to keep the heading on the pickles when put in1 and hold them under the brine4 ,unless so held the uppermost rot1 and spoil the lot4 ,mold will gather around the head in spite of the cloves1 but less than without them4 ,whenever you put in fresh pickles1 take out the head1 wash and scald1 dry1 and return to place4 ,anything edible will make pickle--still there are many things better kept out of the brine4 ,cabbage and cauliflower for example do not need it--green tomatoes1 onions1 and ,jerusalem artichokes are likewise taboo4 ,the artichokes make good pickle1 but it must be made all at once4 ,cut anything intended for the brine with a bit of stalk1 and without bruising the stalk4 ,cucumbers should be small1 and even in size1 gherkins about half grown1 string beans1 three parts grown1 crook-neck squash very small and tender1 green peppers for mangoes1 full grown but not turning1 muskmelons for other mangoes three parts grown4 ,wash clean or wipe with a damp cloth4 ,cut pickles in early morning1 so they may be fresh and crisp4 ,never put in any wilted bit--thereby you invite decay4 ,watermelon rind makes fine pickle1 sweet and sour--also citron1 queen of all home made preserves4 ,it must be fairly thick1 sound and unbruised4 ,the ,rattle ,snake melon has a good rind for such uses4 ,the finer flavored and thinner-rinded varieties that come to market1 are rarely worth cutting up4 ,the cutting up is a bit tedious4 ,the rind must be cut in strips rather more than an inch wide and three to five inches long1 then trimmed on each side1 free of green outer skin1 and all trace of the soft inside4 ,there will remain less than half an inch thickness of firm pale green tissue with potentialities of delight--if you know how to bring them out4 ,firm clingstone peaches not fully ripe1 can be put in the brine--they had better1 however1 be pickled without it4 ,for whatever is put in1 and saved by salt1 must be freed of the salt by long soaking before it is fit to eat4 ,the soaking process is the same for everything--take from brine1 wash clean in tepid water1 put to soak in cold water with something on top to hold the pickles down4 ,change water twice the first day1 afterward every day1 until it has not the least salt taste4 ,you can make pickle by soaking in brine three days1 then washing clean1 putting over the fire in clear water1 bringing to scalding heat1 then pouring off the water1 covering with vinegar1 and bringing just to a boil4 ,drain away this vinegar1 which has served its turn1 pack down the pickles in a jar1 seasoning them well with mixed spices1 whole1 not in powder1 covering with fresh1 hot vinegar1 letting cool uncovered1 then tieing down1 and keep dark and cool4 ,watermelon ,rind ,pickle3 ,scald the soaked rind in strong ginger tea1 let stand two minutes barely simmering1 then skim out1 lay in another kettle1 putting in equal quantities of cloves1 mace1 alspice1 and cinnamon1 half as much grated nutmeg1 the same of whole pepper corns1 several pods of ,cayenne pepper1 white mustard and celery seed1 covering with cider vinegar1 the only sort that will keep pickles well1 bringing just to the boil1 then putting down hot in jars1 tying down after cooling1 and setting in a dark1 cool1 airy place4 ,for sweet pickle1 prepare and season1 then to each pint of vinegar put one and a half pounds of sugar1 boil together one minute1 stirring well1 and skimming clean1 then pour over rind and spices1 keep hot for ten minutes without boiling1 then put into jars4 ,if wanted only a little sweet1 use but half a pound of sugar4 ,mangoes3 ,either green peppers or young melons will serve as a foundation--epicures rather preferring the peppers4 ,after making thoroughly fresh1 cut out the stems from the peppers1 removing and throwing away the seed but saving the stems4 ,cut a section from the side of each melon1 and remove everything inside4 ,fit back stems1 sections1 etc41 then pack in a kettle in layers with fresh grape leaves between1 add a bit of alum as big as the thumb's end1 cover all with strong1 cold vinegar1 bring to a boil1 and simmer gently for twenty minutes4 ,let stand in vinegar two or three days1 throwing away the leaves4 ,take out1 rinse and drain4 ,to stuff four dozen1 bruise1 soak1 cut small and dry1 half a pound of race ginger1 add half a pint each black and white mustard seed1 mace1 allspice1 ,turmeric1 black pepper1 each half an ounce1 beat all together to a rather fine powder1 add a dash of garlic1 and mix smooth in half a cup of salad oil4 ,chop very fine a small head of firm but tender cabbage1 three fine hearts of celery1 half a dozen small pickled cucumbers1 half a pint small onions1 a large1 sweet red pepper1 finely shredded1 add a teaspoonful sugar1 a tablespoonful of brandy1 or dry sherry1 the mixed spices1 work all well together1 stuff the mangoes neatly1 sew up with soft thread or tie about with very narrow tape1 pack down in stone jars1 cover with the best cold vinegar1 pour a film of salad oil on top1 tie down and let stand two months4 ,if wanted sweetish1 add moist sugar to the vinegar1 a pound to the gallon4 ,mangoes are for men in the general--and men like things hot and sour4 ,walnut ,pickle3 ,gather white walnuts in ,june--they must be tender enough to cut with the finger nail4 ,wash1 drain and pack down in jars smothered in salt4 ,let stand a fortnight1 drain off the resultant brine then1 scald the nuts in strong vinegar1 let stand hot1 but not boiling1 for twenty minutes1 then drain1 and pack in jars1 putting between the layers1 a mixture of cloves1 alspice1 black and red pepper1 in equal quantity1 with half as much mace1 nutmeg1 cinnamon and ginger4 ,strew in a very little salt1 and a little more sugar4 ,mix mustard and celery seed in a cup of salad oil1 and add to the jars1 after the nuts are in4 ,scald strong cider vinegar1 skim clean1 let cool1 pour over the prepared nuts1 film with oil on top4 ,leave open for two days--if the vinegar sinks through absorption1 fill up the jars4 ,paste paper over mouths1 tie down securely1 and set in a cool place until next year4 ,it takes twelve months for pickled walnuts fully to find themselves4 ,preserving ,fruit3 ,peaches1 pears1 plums1 or cherries1 the process is much the same4 ,use the finest fruit1 ripe but not over-ripe4 ,there is no greater waste of strength1 time1 and sugar1 than in preserving tasteless1 inferior fruit4 ,pare peaches and drop instantly in water to save discoloration4 ,do the same with pears1 pit cherries1 saving the juice4 ,wash and prick plums if large--if small1 merely wash and drain4 ,halve clear stone peaches but put in a few seeds for the flavor4 ,leave clingstones on the seed1 unless very large1 else saw them in three1 across the stones4 ,they make less handsome preserves thus sawn but of finer flavor4 ,weigh1 take pound for pound of sugar1 with a pound over for the kettle4 ,very acid fruit1 cherries or gooseberries1 will require six pounds of sugar to four of fruit4 ,pack pears and peaches after paring in the sugar over night4 ,drain off the syrup at morning1 put the fruit in the kettle1 cover with strained ginger tea1 and simmer for ten minutes4 ,meantime cook the sugar and fruit juice in another kettle4 ,drop the fruit hot in the boiling syrup1 set the kettle in a hot oven1 and let it cook there until the preserves are done--the fruit clear1 and the syrup thick4 ,if it is not rich enough1 skim out the fruit1 and reduce the syrup by rapid boiling1 then pour over the hot fruit in jars4 ,it is only by cooking thus in ginger tea1 or plain water1 pear and quince preserves can be made soft4 ,quinces do not need to stand overnight in sugar--rather heat the sugar1 and put it in the liquid they have been boiled in1 after skimming out the fruit4 ,it should be cooked without sugar till a fork easily pierces it1 but not until it begins to rag4 ,put cherry juice and sugar over the fire1 adding a little water if juice is scant1 boil up1 stirring well and skimming clean1 then put in the fruit1 and let it simmer ten minutes1 and finish by setting the kettle in the oven till the preserves are rich and thick4 ,fancy peach preserves require white1 juicy fruit cut up1 but not too thin4 ,let it stand in sugar overnight--drain off syrup in morning1 boil1 skim clean1 then drop in fruit a handful at a time1 and cook till clear4 ,skim out1 put in more1 lay cooked fruit on platters1 and set under glass in sun4 ,sun all day4 ,next day boil syrup a little more1 drop in fruit1 heat through1 then put all in clear glass jars1 and set for ten days in hot sunshine1 covered close4 ,the fruit should be a rich translucent pink1 the syrup as rich as honey1 and a little lighter pink4 ,these are much handsomer than the gingered peaches but not so good4 ,ginger tea in syrup makes it always darker4 ,plums require nothing extra in the way of flavoring4 ,make a very thick syrup of the sugar and a little water1 skim clean1 drop in the pricked plums1 and cook gently till clear4 ,skim out1 reduce the syrup by further boiling and pour it over the fruit1 packed in jars4 ,by oven-cooking after a good boil up1 there is so little occasion for stirring1 the plums are left almost entirely whole4 ,ginger ,pears3 7,leslie ,fox47 ,four pounds pears peeled and cut small1 four pounds granulated sugar1 juice of four lemons1 and the grated peel of two1 two ounces preserved ginger cut very fine4 ,cook all together over a slow fire until thick and rich--it should make a firm jelly4 ,put away in glass with brandy paper on top the same as other preserves4 ,tutti ,frutti3 7,mrs4 ,j4 ,r4 ,oldham47 ,begin by getting a big wide-mouthed jar1 either thoroughly glazed earthenware1 or thick1 dark glass4 ,wash well1 fill with hot water1 add a half-pound washing soda1 and let stand a day4 ,empty1 rinse three times1 and wipe dry4 ,thus you make end to potential molds and microbes4 ,do this in early spring4 ,put into the jar1 a quart of good brandy and a tablespoonful of mixed spices--any your taste approves1 also a little finely shredded yellow peel of lemons and oranges4 ,wash well and hull a quart of fine ripe strawberries1 add them with their own weight in sugar to the brandy1 let stand till raspberries and cherries are ripe1 then put in a quart of each1 along with their weight in sugar4 ,do this with all fruit as it comes in season--forced fruit1 or that shipped long distances has not enough flavor4 ,add grapes1 halved and seeded1 gooseberries1 nibbed and washed1 blackberries1 peaches pared and quartered4 ,currants are best left out1 but by no means slight plums4 ,the big meaty sorts are best4 ,add as much sugar as fruit1 and from time to time more brandy--there must be always enough to stand well above the fruit4 ,add spices also as the jar grows1 and if almond flavor is approved1 kernels of all the stone fruit1 well blanched4 ,lay on a saucer or small plate1 when the jar is full1 to hold the fruit well under the liquor4 ,tie down1 and leave standing for three months4 ,fine for almost any use--especially to sauce mild puddings4 ,green ,tomato ,preserves3 ,take medium size tomatoes1 smooth1 even1 meaty1 just on the point of turning but still green4 ,pare very carefully with a sharp knife4 ,cut out eyes1 taking care not to cut into a seed cavity4 ,weigh--to four pounds fruit take six of sugar4 ,lay the peeled tomatoes in clear lime water for an hour1 take out1 rinse1 and simmer for ten minutes in strained ginger tea4 ,make a syrup in another kettle1 putting half a cup water to the pound of sugar4 ,skim clean1 put in the tomatoes1 add the strained juice of lemons--three for a large kettle full1 and simmer for two hours1 until the fruit is clear4 ,cut the lemon rind in strips1 boil tender in strong salt water1 then boil fresh in clear water1 and add to the syrup4 ,simmer all together for another hour1 then skim out the fruit1 boil the syrup to the thickness of honey1 and pour over the tomatoes after putting them in jars4 ,it ought to be very clear1 and the tomatoes a pale1 clear green4 ,among the handsomest of all preserves1 also the most delicious1 once you get the hang of making them4 ,ripe yellow tomatoes are preserved the same way1 except that they are scalded for peeling1 and hardened by dropping in alum water after their lime-water bath4 ,the same process applied to watermelon rind after it is freshened makes citron4 ,brandy ,peaches and ,pears3 ,these can be made without cooking4 ,choose ripe1 perfect fruit1 pare1 stick three cloves in each1 weigh1 take pound for pound of sugar with one over for the jar4 ,pack down in a large jar1 putting spices between1 and filling sugar into every crevice4 ,crowd in every bit possible1 then pour on enough whiskey to stand an inch above the fruit4 ,let stand--in twenty-four hours more whiskey will be needed4 ,fill up1 sprinkle a few more whole cloves on top1 also two small pods of ,cayenne pepper1 and half a dozen pepper corns4 ,tie down and keep cool4 ,fit for use in a fortnight1 and of fine keeping quality4 ,the same treatment with vinegar in place of whiskey makes very good sweet pickle4 ,another way1 is to pack the fruit in sugar over night1 drain off the juice at morning1 boil and skim it1 and pour back upon the fruit4 ,repeat twice--the third time put everything in the kettle1 cook till a fork will pierce the fruit1 then pack in jars1 adding spices to taste1 and one fourth as much whiskey as there is fruit and syrup4 ,this likewise can be turned into very rich sweet pickle1 by using vinegar instead of whiskey1 putting it with the syrup at first boiling1 sticking cloves in the fruit1 and adding spices to taste4 ,throw stemmed and washed cherries1 unpitted1 into thick syrup made of their weight in sugar with half a cup water to the pound4 ,let boil1 set in oven for half an hour1 take up1 add spices1 and either brandy or vinegar1 in the proportion of one to three4 ,let stand uncovered to cool1 put in jars1 cover with brandy paper1 tie down and keep dark and cool4 ,tea3 ,coffee3 ,chocolate3 ,my tea-making is unorthodox1 but people like to drink the brew4 ,bring fresh water to a bubbling boil in a clean1 wide kettle1 throw in the tea--a tablespoonful to the gallon of water1 let boil just one minute1 then strain from the leaves into a pot that has stood for five minutes full of freshly boiled water1 and that is instantly wrapped about with a thick napkin1 so it shall not cool4 ,serve in tall glasses with rum and lemon1 or with sherry syrup1 flavored with lemon1 add a ,maraschino cherry or so1 or a tiny bit of ginger-flavored citron4 ,this for the unorthodox4 ,those who are orthodox can have cream either whipped or plain1 with rock candy crystals instead of sugar4 ,coffee to be absolutely perfect should never get cold betwixt the beginning of roasting and the end of drinking4 ,since that is out of the question save to ,grand ,turks and faddists1 mere mortals must make shift with coffee freshly ground1 put in a very clean pot1 with the least suspicion of salt--about six fine grains to the cupful1 fresh cold water1 in the proportion of three cupfuls to two heaping spoonfuls of ground coffee1 then the pot set where it will take twenty minutes to boil1 and so carefully watched it can not possibly boil over4 ,boiling over ruins it--makes it flat1 bitter1 aroma-less4 ,so does long boiling--one minute1 no more1 is the longest boiling time4 ,quick boiling is as bad--the water has not time to extract the real goodness of the coffee4 ,let stand five minutes to clear1 keeping hot4 ,those who drink coffee half milk may like it stronger--a cupful of water to the heaping spoonful of coffee4 ,i do not thus abuse one of the crowning mercies1 so make my coffee the strength ,i like to drink it4 ,reducing with boiling water spoils the taste for me4 ,so does pouring into another pot--my silver pot is used only upon occasions when ceremony must outweigh hospitality4 ,in very cold weather hot water may well warm cups both for tea and coffee4 ,standing on the grounds does not spoil the flavor of coffee as it does tea4 ,coffee from the original pot is quite another affair from the same thing shifted4 ,i am firmly of opinion that many a patent coffee-maker has gone on to success through the fact that cups were filled directly from the urn4 ,i always feel that ,i taste my coffee mostly with my nose--nothing refreshes me like the clean1 keen fragrance of it--especially after broken rest4 ,it is idle to talk as so many authorities do1 of using ,java and ,mocha blended4 ,all the real ,java and ,mocha in the world is snapped up1 long before it filters down to the average level4 ,back in the ,dark ,ages of my childhood1 ,i knew experimentally real ,java--we got it by the sack-full straight from ,new ,orleans--and called the ,rio coffee used by many of our neighbors ,seed tick coffee1 imagining its flavor was like the smell of those pests4 ,nowadays1 ,rio coffee has pretty well the whole world for its parish4 ,wherefore the best one can do1 is to get it sound1 well roasted1 and as fresh as may be4 ,much as ,i love and practice home preparation1 ,i am willing to let the ,trust or who will1 roast my coffee4 ,roasting is parlous work1 hot1 tedious1 and tiresome1 also mighty apt to result in scorching if not burning4 ,one last caution--never meddle with the salt unless sure your hand is light1 your memory so trustworthy you will not put it in twice4 ,chocolate spells milk1 and cream1 and trouble1 hence ,i make it only on occasions of high state4 ,yet--,i am said to make it well4 ,perhaps the secret lies in the brandy--a scant teaspoonful for each cake of chocolate grated4 ,put in a bowl after grating1 add the brandy1 stir about1 then add enough hot water to dissolve smoothly1 and stir into a quart of rich milk1 just brought to a boil4 ,add six lumps of sugar1 stir till dissolved1 pour into your pot1 which must have held boiling water for five minutes previously1 and serve in heated cups1 with or without whipped cream on top4 ,there is no taste of the brandy--it appears merely to give a smoothness to the blending4 ,if the chocolate is too rich1 half-fill cups with boiling water1 then pour in the chocolate4 ,there are brands of chocolate which can be made wholly of water--they will serve at a pinch1 but are not to be named with the real thing4 ,cocoa ,i have never made1 therefore say nothing about its making4 ,like ,harry ,percy's wife1 in cooking at least1 ,i never tell that which ,i do not know4 ,illustration3 ,when the ,orchards ,hit ,when the peach orchard hit it meant joy to the plantation4 ,peaches had so many charms--and there were so many ways of stretching the charms on through winter scarcity4 ,peach drying was in a sort1 a festival1 especially if there were a kiln1 which made one independent of the weather4 ,it took many hands wielding many sharp knives in fair fruit to keep a kiln of fair size running regularly4 ,this though it were no more than a thing of flat stones and clean clay mud1 with paper laid over the mud1 and renewed periodically4 ,there was a shed roof1 over the kiln1 which sat commonly in the edge of the orchard4 ,black ,daddy tended the firing--with a couple of active lads to cut and fetch wood1 what time they were not fetching in great baskets of peaches4 ,yellow peaches1 not too ripe but full flavored1 made the lightest and sweetest dried fruit4 ,and clingstones were ever so much better for drying than the clear-seed sorts4 ,some folk took off the peach fuzz with lye--they did not1 ,i think1 save trouble thereby1 and certainly lost somewhat in the flavor of their fruit4 ,mammy was a past mistress of cutting cups4 ,that is to say1 half-peaches1 with only the seed deftly removed4 ,she sat with the biggest bread tray upon her well cushioned knees1 in the midst of the peelers1 who as they peeled1 dropped their peaches into the tray4 ,when it over-ran with cups1 somebody slimmer and suppler1 took it away1 and spread the cut fruit1 just touching1 all over the hot kiln4 ,it must not be too hot--just so you couldn't bear the back of your hand to it was about right4 ,daddy kept the temperature even1 by thrusting into the flues underneath it1 long sticks of green wood1 kindled well at the flue-mouths4 ,cups shrank mightily in a little while--you could push of an early trayful till it would no more than cover space the size of a big dish1 long before dinner time--in other words twelve o'clock--drying was in full blast by seven4 ,with fruit in gluts1 and dropping fast1 the kiln was supplemented by scaffolds4 ,clean planks laid upon trestles1 and set in full sunshine1 gave excellent accounts of themselves4 ,this of course if the sun shone steadily--in showery weather scaffold-drying was no end of trouble4 ,weather permitting1 it made--it still makes--the finest and most flavorous dried fruit ever eaten4 ,the black people chose clear-seed peaches for their individual drying4 ,they made merry over splitting the fruit1 and placing it1 sitting out in front of their cabins in the moonshine1 or by torch-light4 ,washing was all they gave the peach outsides--a little thing like a fuzzy rind their palates did not object to4 ,it was just as well1 since clear-seed fruit1 peeled1 shrinks unconscionably--to small scrawny knots1 inclined to be sticky--though it is but just to add1 that in cooking1 it comes back to almost its original succulence4 ,when the peach-cutting was done1 there was commonly a watermelon feast4 ,especially at ,mammy's house--,daddy's watermelons were famed throughout the county4 ,he gave seed of them sparingly1 and if the truth must be told1 rather grudgingly--but nobody ever brought melons to quite his pitch of perfection4 ,possibly because he planted for the most part1 beside rotting stumps in the new ground1 where the earth had to be kept light and clean for tobacco1 and where the vines got somewhat of shade1 and the roots fed fat upon the richness of virgin soil4 ,it took eight bushels of ripe fruit1 to make one of dry--this when the peaches were big and fleshy4 ,small1 seedy sorts demanded ten bushels for one4 ,unpeeled1 the ratio fell to seven for one4 ,but there was seldom any lack of fruit--beside the orchard1 there were trees up and down all the static fence rows--the corner of a worm fence furnishing an ideal seat4 ,further1 every field boasted trees1 self-planted1 sprung from chance seed vagrantly cast4 ,these volunteer trees often had the very best fruit--perhaps because only peaches of superior excellence had been worth carrying a-field4 ,tilth also helped--the field trees bent and often broke under their fruity burdens4 ,it was only when late frosts made half or three parts of the young fruit drop1 that we knew how fine and beautiful these field peaches could be4 ,our trees1 being all seedlings1 were in a degree1 immortelles4 ,branches1 even trunks might bend and break1 but the seminal roots sent up new shoots next season1 which in another year1 bore fruit scantily4 ,still1 these renewals never gave quite such perfect fruit as grew upon vigorous young trees1 just come to full bearing4 ,here or there a plantation owner like my starch and stately grandfather1 turned surplus peaches into brandy4 ,in that happy time excise was--only a word in the dictionary1 so the yield of certain trees1 very free-bearing1 of small1 deep1 red1 clear-seed fruit1 was allowed to get dead-ripe on the trees1 then mashed to a pulp in the cider trough1 and put into stands to ferment1 then duly distilled4 ,barrelled1 after two years in the lumber house1 it was racked into clean barrels1 and some part of it converted into peach and honey1 the favorite gentleman's tipple4 ,strained honey was mixed with the brandy in varying proportions--the amount depending somewhat upon individual tastes4 ,some used one measure of honey to three of brandy1 others put one to two1 still others1 half and half1 qualifying the sweetness by adding neat brandy at the time of drinking4 ,peach and honey was kept properly in stone jugs or in demijohns1 improved mightily with age1 and was1 at its best1 to the last degree insidious4 ,newly mixed it was heady1 but after a year or more1 as smooth as oil1 and as mellow4 ,the honey had something to do with final excellence4 ,that which the bees gathered from wild raspberries in flower1 being very clear1 light-colored and fine-flavored1 was in especial request4 ,i think these peaches of the brandy orchards traced back to those the ,indians1 ,creeks1 ,choctaws1 and ,cherokees1 planted in the mountain valleys of ,georgia1 ,north ,carolina1 ,tennessee1 and ,virginia4 ,they got the seed from early ,spaniard voyagers to ,florida4 ,there was indeed a special ,indian peach1 as dark-skinned as its namesake1 blood-red inside and out1 very sweet and full of juice1 if permitted to ripen fully--but as ill-tasting almost as a green persimmon1 if unripe4 ,there were clearstone and clingstone sorts1 and one tree differed from another in glory of flavor1 even as one star4 ,that was the charm of our seedlings--which had further a distinction of flavor no commercial fruit ever yet owned4 ,august peaches were for drying--in ,september1 early1 came the ,heaths1 for preserves1 brandy fruit1 and so on4 ,october peaches1 nearly all clear-seed1 made the finest peach butter4 ,understand1 in those days1 canning1 known as hermetic sealing1 was still a laboratory process4 ,i wonder if anybody else recalls1 as ,i do1 the first editions of fruit cans8 ,they were of tin1 tall and straight1 with a flaring upstanding tin ruffle around the tops4 ,the ruffle was for holding the sealing wax1 into which the edge of the tin top was thrust4 ,they did not last long--pretty soon1 there were cans of the present shape--but sealing them with wax was hard work1 likewise uncertain4 ,women everywhere should rise and call blessed he who invented the self-sealing jar4 ,return we to our peach butter4 ,it began in cider--the cider from fall apples1 very rich and sweet4 ,to boil it down properly required a battery of brass kettles swung over a log fire in the yard1 the same as at drying up lard time4 ,naturally brass kettles were at a premium--but luckily everybody did not make peach butter1 so it was no strain upon neighborly comity to borrow of such4 ,it took more than half a day to boil down the cider properly--kettles were filled up constantly as there was room4 ,by and by1 when the contents became almost syrup1 peaches went in--preferably the late1 soft1 white ones1 dead ripe1 very juicy1 and nearly as sweet as sugar4 ,after the kettles were full of them1 peeled and halved1 of course1 the boiling went on until the fruit was mushy4 ,constant stirring helped to make it so4 ,fresh peaches were added twice1 and cooked down until the paddle stood upright in the middle of the kettle4 ,then came the spicing--putting in cloves1 mace1 bruised ginger1 and alspice--sparingly1 but enough to flavor delicately4 ,if the white peaches ran short1 there might be a supplemental butter-making when the ,red ,octobers came in1 at the very last of the month4 ,they were big and handsome1 oval1 with the richest crimson cheeks1 but nothing like so sweet as the white ones4 ,so sugar1 or honey1 was added scantly1 at the end of the boiling down4 ,if it had been put in earlier1 it would have added to the danger of burning4 ,a six-gallon crock of peach butter was no mean household asset--indeed it ranked next to the crock of blackberry jam4 ,it was good as a sauce1 or lightly sweetened1 to spread on crust4 ,as a filling for roly-polys it had but one superior--namely dried peaches properly stewed4 ,proper stewing meant washing a quart of dry fruit in two waters1 soaking overnight1 then putting over the fire in the soaking water1 covering with a plate to hold the fruit down1 and simmering at the least five hours1 filling up the kettle from time to time1 and adding after the fruit was soft a pound of sugar4 ,then at the very last spices to taste went in4 ,if the fruit were to be eaten along with meat1 as a relish1 a cupful of vinegar was added after the sugar4 ,this made it a near approach to the finest sweet pickle4 ,but as ,mammy said often3 ,dried peaches wus good ernough fer anybody--dest by dee sefs1 dry so4 ,apple drying commonly came a little before peach4 ,horse apples1 the best and plentiest1 ripened in the beginning of ,august4 ,they were kiln-dried1 or scaffold-dried1 and much less tedious than peaches since they were sliced thin4 ,when they got very mellow1 drying ceased--commonly everybody had plenty by that time--and the making of apple butter began4 ,it differed little from peach butter in the making1 though mightily in taste--being of a less piquant flavor4 ,cider1 newly run was essential to any sort of butter--hence the beating was done before breakfast4 ,cider mills were not--but cider troughs abounded4 ,they were dug from huge poplar logs1 squared outside with the broad axe1 and adzed within to a smooth finish4 ,apples well washed1 were beaten in them with round headed wooden pestles1 and pressed in slat presses1 the pomace laid on clean straw1 after the manner of cider pressing in ,english orchards4 ,the first runnings1 somewhat muddy1 were best for boiling down1 but the clear last runnings drank divinely--especially after keeping until there was just the trace of sparkle to them4 ,winter cider was commonly allowed to get hard4 ,so was that meant for distilling--apple brandy was only second to peach4 ,but a barrel or keg1 would be kept sweet for women1 children1 and ministers--either by smoking the inside of a clean barrel well with sulphur before putting in the cider1 or by hanging inside a barrel nearly full1 a thin muslin bag full of white mustard seed4 ,cider from russets and pear apples had a peculiar excellence1 so was kept for ,christmas and other high days4 ,pear cider--perry--we knew only in books4 ,not through lack of pears but inclination to make it4 ,pears were dried the same as other fruit1 but commonly packed down after drying in sugar4 ,thus they were esteemed nearly as good as peach chips1 or even peach leather4 ,peach chips were sliced thin1 packed down in their own weight of sugar and let stand twenty-four hours to toughen4 ,then the syrup was drained from them1 boiled1 skimmed clean1 spiced with mace and lemon peel1 and the slices dropped into it a few at a time and cooked until sweet through4 ,then they were skimmed out1 spread on dishes well sprinkled with sugar1 dredged with more sugar1 set under glass in sunshine and turned daily until dry4 ,they were delicious1 and served as other confections--passed around with nuts and wine1 or eaten instead of candy4 ,so were cherries1 dried in exactly the same manner1 after pitting4 ,when dried without sugar they were used for cooking4 ,so also were tomato figs4 ,yellow tomatoes1 smooth and even were best--but red ones answered--the meatier the better4 ,after scalding1 peeling1 soaking an hour in clear lime-water to harden1 they were rinsed clean1 then dropped in thick boiling syrup1 a few at a time1 simmered an hour1 then skimmed out1 drained1 sugared and dried under glass in the sun1 or failing sunshine1 upon dishes in a very slow oven4 ,full-dry1 they were packed down in powdered sugar1 in glass jars kept tightly closed4 ,unless thus kept they had a knack of turning sticky--which defeated the purpose of their creation4 ,peach leather may not appeal to this day of many sweets--but it was good indeed back in the spare elder time4 ,to make it the very ripest1 softest peaches were peeled1 and mashed smooth1 working quickly so the pulp might not color too deeply1 then spread an inch thick upon large dishes or even clean boards1 and dried slowly in sunshine or the oven4 ,after it was full-dry1 came the cutting into inch-strips4 ,this took a very sharp knife and a steady hand4 ,then the strips were coiled edgewise into flat rounds1 with sugar between the rounds of the coils1 which had to be packed down in more sugar and kept close1 to save them from dampness1 which meant ruin4 ,if you had a fond and extravagant grandmother1 you were almost sure to have also a clove apple4 ,that is to say1 a fine firm winter apple1 stuck as full of cloves as it could hold1 then allowed to dry very1 very slowly1 in air neither hot nor cold4 ,the cloves banished decay--their fragrance joined to the fruity scent of the apple1 certainly set off things kept in the drawer with the apple4 ,the applemakers justified their extravagance--cloves cost money1 then as now--by asserting a belief in clove apples as sovereign against mildew or moths--which may have had a color of reason4 ,the quince tree is the clown of the orchard1 growing twisted and writhing1 as though hating a straight line4 ,notwithstanding1 its fruit1 and the uses thereof1 set the hall mark of housewifery4 ,especially in the matter of jelly-making and marmalade4 ,further a quince pudding is in the nature of an experience--so few have ever heard of it1 so much fewer made or tasted it4 ,the making requires very ripe quinces--begin by scrubbing them clean of fuzz1 then set them in a deep pan1 cover1 after adding a tablespoonful of water1 and bake slowly until very soft4 ,scrape out the pulp1 throw away cores and skin4 ,to a pint of pulp take four eggs1 beat the yolks light with three cups of sugar and a cup of creamed butter1 add the quince pulp1 a little mace broken small or grated nutmeg1 then half a cup of cream1 and the egg-whites beaten stiff4 ,bake in a deep pan1 and serve hot with hard or wine sauce4 ,here are some fine points of jelly-making learned in that long ago4 ,to make the finest1 clearest jelly1 cook but little at a time4 ,a large kettleful will never have the color and brightness of two or three glasses4 ,never undertake to make jelly of inferior fruit--that which is unripe or over-ripe1 or has begun to sour4 ,wash clean1 and drain--paring is not only waste work1 but in a measure lessens flavor4 ,put a little water with the fruit when you begin cooking it--cook rather slowly so there shall be no scorching1 and drain out rather than press out the juice4 ,draining is much freer if the fruit is spread thin1 rather than dumped compactly in a bag4 ,double cheese cloth sewed fast over stout wire1 and laid on top of a wide bowl1 makes a fine jelly drainer--one cheap enough to be thrown away when discolored4 ,a discolored bag1 by the way1 makes jelly a bit darker4 ,if there is no pressure flannel is not required4 ,plenty as fruit was with us1 ,mammy made jelly and marmalade from the same quinces4 ,they were well washed1 peeled1 quartered and the cores removed1 then the quarters boiled until soft in water to half-cover them1 skimmed out1 mashed smooth with their own weight of sugar1 and spices to taste1 then cooked very slowly until the spoon stood upright in the mass1 after which it went into glass jars1 and had a brandy paper laid duly on top4 ,cores and paring were boiled to rags in water to fully cover them1 then strained out1 the water strained again1 and added to that in which the fruit had boiled4 ,sugar was added--a pound to the pint of juice4 ,but first the juice was brought to a boil1 and skimmed very clean4 ,the sugar1 heated without scorching1 went in1 and cooking continued until the drop on the tip of the spoon jellied as it fell4 ,mammy hated jelly that ran--it must cut like butter to reach her standard4 ,occasionally she flavored it with ginger--boiling the bruised root with the cores--but only occasionally1 as ginger would make the jelly darker4 ,occasionally also she cooked apples1 usually fall pippins1 with the quinces1 thus increasing the bulk of both jelly and marmalade1 with hardly a sensible diminution of flavor4 ,all here written applies equally to every sort of fruit jelly--apple1 peach1 currant1 the whole family of berries4 ,mammy never knew it1 but ,i myself have found the oven at half-heat a very present help in jelly-making4 ,fruit well prepared1 and put into a stone or agate vessel1 covered and baked gently for a time proportionate to its bulk1 yields all its juice1 and it seems to me clearer juice1 than when stewed in the time-honored brass kettle4 ,hot sugar helps to jellying quickly--and the more haste there1 the lighter and brighter the result4 ,gelatin in fruit jellies ,i never use--it increases the product sensibly1 but that is more than offset by the decrease in quality4 ,illustration3 ,upon ,occasions ,it was no trouble at all to make occasions4 ,indeed1 the greatest of them1 weddings1 really made themselves4 ,a wedding made imperative an infare--that is to say1 if the high contracting parties had parental approval4 ,maybe ,i had better explain that infare meant the bride's going home--to her new house1 or at least her new family4 ,this etymologically--the root is the ,saxon faran1 to go1 whence come wayfaring1 faring forth and so on4 ,all this ,i am setting forth not in pedantry1 but because so many folk had stared blankly upon hearing the word--which was to me as familiar as word could be4 ,in application it had a wide latitude4 ,commonly the groom or his family gave the infare1 but often enough some generous and well-to-do friend1 or kinsman1 pre-empted the privilege4 ,wherever held1 it was an occasion of keen and jealous rivalry--those in charge being doubly bent on making the faring in more splendid than the wedding feast4 ,naturally that put the wedding folk on their mettle4 ,another factor inciting to extra effort was--the bundles4 ,all guests were expected to take home with them generous bundles of wedding cake in all its varieties4 ,i recall once hearing a famous cake baker sigh relief as she frosted the hundredth snow ball1 and said3 ,now we are sure to have enough left for the bundles--they are such a help4 ,but baking cakes1 and cooking in general1 though important1 were not the main things4 ,setting the table1 so it should outshine all other wedding tables gave most concern4 ,to this end all the resources of the family1 and its friends for a radius of ten miles1 were available--glass1 silver1 china1 linen1 even cook pots and ovens at need4 ,also and further it was a slight of the keenest1 if you were known as a fine cake maker1 not to be asked to help4 ,a past mistress of paper cutting was likewise in request4 ,cut papers and evergreens were the great reliances in decoration4 ,they made a brave showing by candlelight4 ,oil lamps were few1 kerosene undiscovered1 and either lard oil1 or whale oil1 all too often smelled to heaven1 to say nothing of smoking upon the least provocation4 ,so a lamp1 if there were one1 sat in state within the parlor4 ,the long table got its light from candelabra--which as often as not were homemade4 ,the base was three graduated blocks of wood1 nailed to form a sort of pyramid1 with a hole bored in the middle to receive a stout round upright1 two inches across4 ,it stood a foot high1 and held up cross-arms three feet across1 with a tin candlesocket upon each end4 ,another socket was set where the arms crossed--thus each candelabra was of five-candle power4 ,set a-row down the middle of the table1 with single candles in tall brass sticks interspersed1 they gave a fine soft illumination4 ,often they were supplemented with candelabra of bronze or brass1 tricked out with tinkly pendant prisms4 ,such household gauds were commonly concentrated at the spot where the bride and her maids would stand4 ,they were more elegant1 of course1 than the made candle-holders--but not to my thinking a whit the handsomer--after the paper-cutters had done their work4 ,their work was turning white paper into fringe and lace4 ,fringed strips wound all over and about1 hid the foundation wood4 ,paper tulips1 deftly fashioned1 held the tin rings in ambush--with clusters of lacy leaves pendant below4 ,sometimes a paper rose tipped each arm-end--sometimes also1 there were pendant sprays of pea-shaped blossoms4 ,how they were made1 with nothing beyond scissors1 pen-knives for crimping1 and the palm of the hand for mold1 ,i confess ,i do not understand--but ,i know they were marvels4 ,the marvels required a special knack1 of course--also much time and patience4 ,wherefore those who had it1 exercised it in scraps of leisure as paper came to hand1 laying away the results against the next wedding even though none were imminent4 ,leaves and the round lace-edged pieces to go under cakes1 it was easy thus to keep4 ,flowers1 roses1 tulips and so on1 had a trick of losing shape--besides1 although so showy1 they were really much easier to make4 ,it took nice contrivance to make table-room--but double thicknesses of damask falling to the floor either side hid all roughness in the foundation4 ,shape depended much upon the size of the supper-room--if it were but an inclosed piazza1 straight length was imperative4 ,but in a big square or parallelogram1 one could easily achieve a capital ,h--or else a letter ,z4 ,z was rather a favorite in that it required less heavy decoration1 yet gave almost as much space4 ,a heart-cake for either tip1 a stack at each acute angle1 with the bride's cake midway the stem1 flanked either hand by bowls of syllabub and boiled custard1 made a fine showing4 ,a letter ,h demanded four heart-cakes--one for each end1 also four stacks1 and crowded the bride and her party along the joining bar4 ,heart-cakes were imperative to any wedding of degree4 ,local tinsmiths made the moulds for them--they were deeply cleft1 and not strictly classic of outline4 ,but1 well and truly baked1 frosted a glistening white1 then latticed and fringed with more frosting1 dribbled on delicately from the point of a tube1 they were surely good to look at4 ,if the bride's cake were white all through1 the heart-pans were usually filled with gold-cake batter--thus white and yolk of eggs had equal honor4 ,more commonly though1 the most part of wedding cake was pound cake in the beginning--the richer the better4 ,baked in deep round-bottomed1 handleless coffee cups1 and iced1 it made the helpful snow balls4 ,baked in square pans1 rather shallow1 cut into bars1 crisped1 frosted and piled cob-house fashion1 it made pens4 ,sliced crosswise and interlaid with jelly it became jelly cake4 ,to supplement it1 there were marble cake1 spice cake1 plum cake1 ever so many more cakes--but they were--only supplements4 ,stacks were either round or square1 baked in pans of graduated size1 set one on the other after cooling thoroughly1 then frosted and re-frosted till they had a polar suggestion4 ,if round there was commonly a hole running down the middle1 into this was fitted a wide mouthed but small glass bottle1 to hold the stems of the evergreen plume topping the stack4 ,here or there in the plume1 shone a paper rose or starflower--in the wreath of evergreen laid about the base1 were tulips1 lilies1 and bigger roses1 all made of paper4 ,occasionally trailing myrtle1 well washed and dried1 was put about the components of the stacks just before they were set in place4 ,if the heart-cakes had missed being latticed1 they likewise were myrtle-wreathed4 ,the bride's cake was left dead-white1 but it always stood on something footed1 and had a wreath of evergreen and paper flowers1 laid upon a lace-cut paper about the foot4 ,baking it was an art4 ,so many things had to go in it--the darning needle1 thimble1 picayune1 ring1 and button4 ,the makers would have scorned utterly the modern subterfuge of baking plain1 and thrusting in the portents of fate before frosting4 ,they mixed the batter a trifle stiff1 washed and scoured everything1 shut eyes1 dropped them1 and stirred them well about4 ,thus nobody had the least idea where they finally landed--so the cutting was bound to be strictly fair4 ,it made much fun--the bride herself cut the first slice--hoping it might hold the picayune1 and thus symbolize good fortune4 ,the ring presaged the next bride or groom1 the darning needle single blessedness to the end1 the thimble1 many to sew for1 or feed1 the button1 fickleness or disappointment4 ,after the bridal party had done cutting1 other young folk tempted fate4 ,bride's cake was not for eating--instead1 fragments of it1 duly wrapped and put under the pillow1 were thought to make whatever the sleeper dreamed come true4 ,especially if the dream included a sweetheart1 actual or potential4 ,the dreams were supposed to be truly related next day at the infare--but ,i question if they always were4 ,perhaps the magic worked--and in this wise--the person dreamed of took on so new a significance1 the difference was quickly felt4 ,but this is a cook book--with reminiscent attachments1 not a treatise on psychology4 ,the table held only the kickshaws--cakes1 candy1 nuts1 syllabub and custard4 ,wide handsome plates piled high with tempting sliced cake sat up and down the length of it1 with glass dishes of gay candies in between4 ,in cold weather wine jelly often took the place of syllabub4 ,there were neither napkins nor service plates--all such things came from the side table1 the plates laden with turkey1 ham1 fried chicken1 or broiled1 and some sort of jelly or relish4 ,one ate standing1 with her escort doing yeoman service as waiter1 until her appetite was fully appeased4 ,hot biscuit1 hot egg bread1 and light bread--salt rising1 freshly sliced--were passed about by deft black servitors4 ,the side tables were under charge of family friends1 each specially skilled in helping and serving4 ,carving1 of course1 had been done before hand4 ,occasionally1 very occasionally1 where a wedding throng ran well into the hundreds1 there was barbecue in addition to other meat4 ,in that case it was cut up outside1 and sent in upon huge platters4 ,but it was more a feature of infares1 held commonly by daylight1 than of wedding suppers4 ,wedding salad is set forth in its proper chapter1 but not the turkey hash that was to some minds the best of all the good eating4 ,it was served for breakfast--there was always a crowd of kinfolk and faraway friends to stay all night--sleeping on pallets all over the floors1 even those of parlor or ballroom1 after they were deserted4 ,the hash was made from all the left-over turkey--where a dozen birds have been roasted the leavings will be plenty4 ,to it was added the whole array of giblets1 cooked the day before1 and cut small while still warm4 ,they made heaps of rich gravy to add to that in the turkey pots--no real wedding ever contented itself with cooking solely on a range4 ,pots1 big ones1 set beside a log fire out of doors1 with a little water in the bottom1 and coals underneath and on the lids1 turned out turkeys beautifully browned1 tender and flavorous1 to say nothing of the gravy4 ,it set off the hash as nothing else could--but such setting off was not badly needed4 ,hash with hot biscuit1 strong clear coffee1 hot egg bread1 and thin-sliced ham1 made a breakfast one could depend on1 even with a long drive cross-country in prospect4 ,harking back to the supper table--syllabub1 as nearly as ,i recall1 was made of thick cream lightly reinforced with stiffly beaten white of egg--one egg-white to each pint--sweetened1 well flavored with sherry or ,madeira wine1 then whipped very stiff1 and piled in a big bowl1 also in goblets to set about the bowl1 just as snow balls were set a-row about the stacks and the bride's cake4 ,flecks of crimson jelly were dropped on the white cream--occasionally1 there were crumbled cake1 and cut up fruit underneath4 ,thus it approximated the trifle of the cook books4 ,it had just one drawback--you could not eat it slowly--it went almost to nothing at the agitation of the spoon4 ,far otherwise boiled custard--which was much higher in favor1 being easier made1 and quite as showy4 ,for it you beat very light the yolks of twelve eggs with four cups white sugar1 added them to a gallon of milk1 and a quart of cream1 in a brass kettle over the fire1 stirred the mixture steadily1 watching it close to remove it just as it was on the point of boiling1 let it cool1 then flavored it well1 with either whiskey1 brandy1 or sweet wine4 ,meantime the egg-whites beaten with a little salt until they stuck to the dish1 had been cooked by pouring quickly over them full-boiling water from a tea kettle4 ,they hardly lost a bubble in the process--the water well drained away1 the whites were ready to go on top of the custard in either bowls or goblets1 and get themselves ornamented with crimson jelly1 or flecks of cherry preserves4 ,like syllabub1 boiled custard necessitated spoons--hence the borrowing of small silver was in most cases imperative4 ,plutocrats had not then been invented--but tradition tells of one high gentleman1 who was self-sufficient4 ,the fact stood him in good stead later--when he was darkly accused1 she who had baked cakes for all his merry-makings said stoutly3 ,the ,colonel do sech as that6 ,lord in heaven6 ,why1 don't you know1 in all the years ,i've knowed him1 he never had to borrow a single silver spoon--and ,i've seen five hundred folks there for supper4 ,i wouldn't believe them tales ef ,angel ,gabriel come down and told 'em to me4 ,is anybody left1 ,i wonder1 who can cut oranges into lilies8 ,thus cut they surely looked pretty4 ,the peel was divided evenly in six1 the sections loosened1 but not pulled free at the base4 ,instead the ends were curved backward after the manner of lily petals4 ,the fruit1 separated into eighths1 hardly showed the divisions4 ,these lilies sat flat upon the cloth1 either in lines1 as about square stacks1 or around bigger things1 or straight up and down the table center4 ,they were not always in season--at their best around ,christmas1 but available until the end of winter4 ,cheesecakes1 baked in patty pans frosted with cocoanut frosting1 also helped out the wedding richness4 ,indeed1 guests gathered to eat the fat and the sweet1 no less to drink it4 ,now1 in a wider outlook1 ,i wonder a little if there was significance in the fact that these wedding tables were so void of color--showing only green and white1 with the tiniest sparks of red8 ,party suppers had no such limitations--often the table was gay with autumn leaves1 the center piece a riot of small ragged red chrysanthemums1 or raggeder pink or yellow ones1 with candles glaring from gorgeous pumpkin jack-o'-lanterns down the middle1 or from the walls either side4 ,there were frosted cakes--loaves trimmed gaily with red and white candies1 or maybe the frosting itself was tinted4 ,in place of syllabub or boiled custard1 there were bowls of ambrosia--oranges in sections1 freed of skin and seed1 and smothered in grated fresh cocoanut and sugar4 ,often the bowl-tops were ornamented with leaves cut deftly from the skin of deep red apples1 and alternating1 other leaves shaped from orange peel4 ,christmas party suppers had touches of holly and cedar1 but there was no attempt to match the elaborate wedding tables4 ,hog's foot jelly1 red with the reddest wine1 came in handily for them--since almost every plantation had a special small hog-killing1 after the middle of ,december1 so there might be fresh backbones1 spare ribs1 sausage and souse to help make ,christmas cheer4 ,ham1 spiced and sliced wafer thin1 was staple for such suppers--chicken and turkey appeared oftenest as salad1 hot coffee1 hot breads in variety1 crisp celery1 and plenteous pickle1 came before the sweets4 ,punch1 not very heady1 hardly more than a fortified pink lemonade1 came with the sweets many times4 ,grandfather's punch was held sacred to very late suppers1 hot and hearty1 set for gentlemen who had played whist or euchre until cock-crow4 ,these are but indications4 ,fare varied even as did households and occasions4 ,but everywhere there was kinship of the underlying spirit--which was the concrete expression of hospitality in good cheer4 ,there was little luxury--rather we lived amid a spare abundance1 eating up what had no market--,i recall clearly times when you could hardly give away fresh eggs1 or frying-size chickens1 other times when eggs fetched five cents for two dozen--provided the seller would take it in trade4 ,chickens then1 broiling size1 were forty to fifty cents the dozen--with often an extra one thrown in for good measure4 ,for then chicken cholera had not been invented--at least not down in the ,tennessee blue grass country4 ,neither had hog cholera--nor railroads4 ,all three fell upon us a very little before the era of the ,civil ,war4 ,steamboats ran almost half the year1 but the flat boat traffic had been taken away by the peopling prairies1 which could raise so much more corn1 derivatively so many more hogs1 to the man's work4 ,money came through wheat and tobacco--not lavishly1 yet enough for our needs4 ,all this is set forth in hope of explaining in some measure1 the cookery ,i have tried to write down faithfully--with so much of everything in hand1 stinting would have been sinful4 ,there was barbecue1 and again there were barbecues4 ,the viand is said to get its name from the ,french phrase a barbe d' ecu1 from tail to head1 signifying that the carcass was cooked whole4 ,the derivation may be an early example of making the punishment fit the crime4 ,as to that ,i do not know4 ,what ,i do know is that lambs1 pigs1 and kids1 when barbecued1 are split in half along the backbone4 ,the animals1 butchered at sundown1 and cooled of animal heat1 after washing down well1 are laid upon clean1 split sticks of green wood over a trench two feet deep1 and a little wider1 and as long as need be1 in which green wood has previously been burned to coals4 ,there the meat stays twelve hours--from midnight to noon next day1 usually4 ,it is basted steadily with salt water1 applied with a clean mop1 and turned over once only4 ,live coals are added as needed from the log fire kept burning a little way off4 ,all this sounds simple1 dead-easy4 ,try it--it is really an art4 ,the plantation barbecuer was a person of consequence--moreover1 few plantations could show a master of the art4 ,such an one could give himself lordly airs--the loan of him was an act of special friendship--profitable always to the personage lent4 ,then as now there were free barbecuers1 mostly white--but somehow their handiwork lacked a little of perfection4 ,for one thing1 they never found out the exact secret of dipney1 the sauce that savored the meat when it was crisply tender1 brown all over1 but free from the least scorching4 ,daddy made it thus3 ,two pounds sweet lard1 melted in a brass kettle1 with one pound beaten1 not ground1 black pepper1 a pint of small fiery red peppers1 nubbed and stewed soft in water to barely cover1 a spoonful of herbs in powder--he would never tell what they were1--and a quart and pint of the strongest apple vinegar1 with a little salt4 ,these were simmered together for half an hour1 as the barbecue was getting done4 ,then a fresh1 clean mop was dabbed lightly in the mixture1 and as lightly smeared over the upper sides of the carcasses4 ,not a drop was permitted to fall on the coals--it would have sent up smoke1 and films of light ashes4 ,then1 tables being set1 the meat was laid1 hissing hot1 within clean1 tight wooden trays1 deeply gashed upon the side that had been next the fire1 and deluged with the sauce1 which the mop-man smeared fully over it4 ,hot6 ,after eating it one wanted to lie down at the spring-side and let the water of it flow down the mouth4 ,but of a flavor1 a savor1 a tastiness1 nothing else earthly approaches4 ,not food for the gods1 perhaps1 but certainly meat for men4 ,women loved it no less--witness the way they begged for a quarter of lamb or shoat or kid to take home4 ,the proper accompaniments to barbecue are sliced cucumbers in strong vinegar1 sliced tomatoes1 a great plenty of salt-rising light bread--and a greater plenty of cool ripe watermelons1 by way of dessert4 ,so much for barbecue edible4 ,barbecue1 the occasion1 has yet to be set forth4 ,its ,first ,cause was commonly political--the old south loved oratory even better than the new4 ,newspapers were none so plenty--withal of scant circulation4 ,besides1 reading them was work--also tedious and tasteless4 ,so the great and the would-be great1 rode up and down1 and roundabout1 mixing with the sovereigns1 and enlightening the world4 ,each party felt honor bound to gather the sovereigns so they might listen in comfort4 ,besides--they wanted amusement--a real big barbecue was a sort of social exchange1 drawing together half of three counties1 and letting you hear and tell1 things new1 strange1 and startling4 ,furthermore1 it was no trouble to get carcasses--fifty to a hundred was not uncommon4 ,men1 women1 children1 everybody1 indeed1 came4 ,the women brought bread and tablecloths1 and commonly much beside4 ,there was a speaker's stand1 flag draped--my infant eyes first saw the ,stars and ,stripes floating above portraits--alleged--of ,filmore and ,buchanan1 in the campaign of '#ef4 ,that meant the barbecue was a joint affair--,whigs and ,democrats getting it up1 and both eagerly ready to whoop it up for their own speakers4 ,naturally in that latitude1 ,fremont was not even named4 ,no court costume with a tail three yards long1 could to-day make me feel one-half so fine as the white jaconet1 and green sash then sported4 ,it was said there were a thousand at the barbecue4 ,the cheering1 at its loudest1 was heard two miles away4 ,to me it seemed as though all the folk in the world had gathered in that shady grove--,i remember wondering if there could possibly be so many watermelons1 some would be left for the children4 ,four big wagon loads lay bobbing in the coolth of the spring branch4 ,it was a very cold spring with mint growing beside it1 as is common with springs thereabout4 ,early settlers planted it thus hard by the water--they built their houses high1 and water got warm in carrying it up hill4 ,lacking ice houses1 to have cool juleps1 they had to be mixed right at the well-head4 ,sugar1 spoons1 goblets1 and the jug1 were easily carried down there4 ,juleps were not mixed openly that day--but the speakers had pitchers full of something that seemed to refresh their eloquence1 no less than themselves4 ,they hammered each other lustily1 cheered to the echo by uproarious partisans1 from nine in the morning until six in the afternoon4 ,luckily for them1 there were four of them1 thus they could spell each other--and the audience4 ,i did not mind them--not in the least4 ,how should ,i--when right in front of me sat a lady with the most gorgeous flowers upon her white chip bonnet1 and one beside me1 who insisted upon my wearing1 until time to go home1 her watch and chain8 ,the watermelons held out--we took two big ones home to ,mother1 also a lot of splendid ,indian peaches1 and a fore-quarter of lamb4 ,mother rarely went out1 being an invalid--so folk vied with each other in sending her things4 ,i mention it1 only by way of showing there were things to be sent1 even after feeding the multitude4 ,the black people went away full fed1 and full handed--nobody who carried a basket had much relish for taking home again any part of its contents4 ,our countryside's cooking came to its full flower for the bran-dances--which came into being1 ,i think1 because the pioneers liked to shake limber heels1 but had not floors big enough for the shaking4 ,so in green shade1 at some springside they built an arbor of green boughs1 leveled the earth underneath1 pounded it hard and smooth1 then covered it an inch deep with clean wheat bran1 put up seats roundabout it1 also a fiddlers' stand1 got the fiddlers1 printed invitations which went far and wide to women young and old1 saw to a sufficiency of barbecue1 depended on the ,lord and the ladies for other things--and prepared to dance1 dance from nine in the morning until two next morning4 ,men were not specifically invited--anybody in good standing with a clean shirt1 dancing shoes1 a good horse and a pedigree1 was heartily welcome4 ,the solid men1 whose names appeared as managers1 paid scot for everything--they left the actual arrangements to the lads4 ,but they came in shoals to the bran-dances1 and were audacious enough often to take away from some youth fathoms deep in love1 his favorite partner4 ,sometimes1 too1 a lot of them pre-empted all the prettiest girls1 and danced a special set with them4 ,thus were they delivered into the hands of the oppressed--the lads made treaty with the fiddlers and prompter to play fast and furious--to call figures that kept the oldsters wheeling and whirling4 ,it was an endurance contest--but victory did not always perch with the youths4 ,plenty of pursy gentlemen were still light enough on their feet1 clear enough in their wind1 to dance through ,money ,musk double1 ,chicken in the ,bread ,tray1 and the ,arkansaw ,traveller1 no matter what the time4 ,all dances were square--quadrilles and cotillions4 ,the ,basket ,cotillion was indeed1 looked upon as rather daring4 ,you see1 at the last1 the ring of men linked by hand-hold outside a ring of their partners1 lifted locked arms over their partners' heads1 and thus interwoven1 the circle balanced before breaking up4 ,other times1 other dances--ours is now the day of the trot and the tango4 ,but they lack the life1 the verve of the old dances1 the old tunes4 ,to this day when ,i hear them1 my feet patter in spite of me4 ,you could not dance to them steadily1 with soft airs blowing all about1 leaves flittering in sunshine1 and water rippling near1 without getting an appetite commensurate to the feasts in wait for you4 ,one basket from a plantation sufficed for bran-dances ending at sundown--those running on past midnight demanded two4 ,it would never do to offer snippets and fragments for supper4 ,barbecue1 if there were barbecue--was merely a concomitant of the feeding1 not the whole thing4 ,part of it was left untouched to help out with supper4 ,so were part of the melons1 and much of the fruit4 ,apples1 pears and peaches were plenty in good years--the near plantations sent them by wagon loads--as they also sent ice cream by freezerfuls1 and boilers to make coffee4 ,these were dispensed more than generously--but nobody would have helped himself to them uninvited1 any more readily than he would have helped himself to money in the pocket4 ,all that was in the baskets was spread on the general tables1 but no man thought of eating thereof1 until all women and children had been served4 ,old men came next--the women generally forcing upon them the best of everything4 ,such a best6 ,broiled chicken1 fried chicken1 in quantity1 whole hams simply entreating to be sliced1 barbecue1 pickle in great variety1 drained and sliced for eating1 beaten biscuit1 soda biscuit1 egg bread1 salt-rising bread1 or rolls raised with hop-yeast--only a few attempted them--every manner of pie1 tart1 and tartlet that did not drip and mess things1 all the cakes in the calendar of good housewifery--with1 now and then1 new ones specially invented4 ,even more than a wedding1 a bran-dance showed and proved your quality as a cake-maker4 ,cakes were looked at in broad daylight1 eaten not with cloyed finicky appetites1 but with true zest4 ,woe and double woe to you if a loaf of pride showed at cutting a sad streak1 not quite done4 ,joy untold if you were a raw young housekeeper1 to have your cake acclaimed by eaters and critics4 ,mammy1 and other ,mammies1 moved proudly about1 each a sort of oracle to the friends of her household4 ,they kept sharp eyes on things returnable--plates1 platters1 knives1 spoons1 and tablecloths--in any doubtful case1 arising from the fact of similarity in pattern1 they were the court of last resort4 ,spoons and so on are unmistakable--but one sprigged saucer is very like other saucers sprigged the same4 ,it was the ,mammies rather than the masters and mistresses1 who ordered carriage drivers and horse boys imperiously about4 ,but nobody minded the imperiousness--it was no day for quarrelling or unwisdom4 ,and it would surely have been unwise to fret those who were the ,keepers of the ,baskets1 at the very last4 ,after dinner one went to the dressing-room1 a wide roofless space enclosed with green boughs massed on end1 and furnished plentifully with water in buckets1 towels1 basins1 pin cushions1 combs and brushes1 face powder1 even needles and thread4 ,thence one emerged after half an hour quite fresh--to dance on and on1 till the fiddlers played a fast finale1 and went to their supper4 ,then came an interval of talk and laughing1 of making new friends or stabbing delicately old enemies4 ,also and further much primping in the dressing-room4 ,dancing steadily through a temperature of #ih in the shade plays hob with some sorts of prettiness4 ,but as dew fell and lighted lanterns went up about the arbor and throughout the grove1 supper was very welcome4 ,there was hot coffee for everybody1 likewise milk1 likewise lemonade1 with buttered biscuit1 chicken1 ham1 and barbecue4 ,chicken-loaf was particularly good for such uses4 ,to make it1 several plump1 tender1 full-grown pullets were simmered in water to barely cover them1 with a few pepper corns1 half a dozen cloves1 and a blade of mace1 until very1 very tender4 ,then the meat was picked from the bones1 cut up while still hot1 packed down in something deep1 seasoning it to taste with salt1 as it was packed1 and dusting in more pepper if needed1 then the liquor which had been kept at a brisk boil was poured over1 and left to cool4 ,no bother about skimming off fat--we liked our loaf rich as well as high-flavored4 ,it came out a fine mottled solid that could be sliced thin1 and eaten delicately between the halves of a buttered biscuit4 ,sandwiches were known--but only in books4 ,which was well--they would have dried out so badly1 for this was before the era of wax paper4 ,since everything was packed in the baskets whole1 there was much work for mothers and ,mammies at the unpacking and table-setting4 ,tarts1 especially if filled with cheesecake or jelly custard1 held high place among the sweets4 ,especially with the men1 young and old4 ,one1 a manager1 who had been here1 there1 everywhere1 since eight o'clock in the morning1 asked ,mammy at suppertime to3 ,please save him one more dozen of them little pies4 ,in truth the little pies made no more than a mouthful for noble appetites4 ,pies1 full-grown1 did not go begging--and were seldom cut in less than quarters4 ,frosted cake--which the lads denominated white-washed1 was commonly saved over for the supper baskets4 ,it kept moist1 whereas without the frosting a long summer day might make it hard4 ,after the supper elderly men drove home--unless they had daughters among the dancers without other chaperons4 ,generally1 some aunt or cousin stood ready with such good offices4 ,the chaperons themselves danced now and then--youths specially anxious for favor with their charges1 all but forced them upon the floor4 ,set it to their credit1 they footed it almost as lightly as the youngest4 ,occasionally you might see1 mother and daughter1 even a granddaughter of tender years1 wheeling and balancing in the same set4 ,and so the fiddles played1 the stars shone1 the waters babbled1 until the lanterns flared and sputtered out1 and the banjo-picker held up fingers raw and bleeding4 ,then with a last final swing and flourish1 everybody scattered for homeward ways1 glad of the day's pleasure--and tired enough to be glad also it was ended4 ,the most special of occasions was a dining4 ,not upon any high day or holiday1 such as ,christmas1 ,new ,year1 ,jackson's ,day--the eighth of ,january--,easter nor ,whit-,monday1 but as ,mammy said3 ,a dinin' des1 dry so4 ,commonly pride of housewifery incited to it--therefore it must be a triumph4 ,the hour was two o'clock1 but guests came around eleven or twelve--and spent the day4 ,they sat down to tables that well might have groaned1 even howled1 such was the weight they carried4 ,twelve was a favorite guest-number--few tables could be stretched to hold more than twelve plates4 ,there were but two courses--dinner and dessert--unless in very cold weather1 some person who would nowadays be said to be fond of putting on frills1 set before her guests1 plates of steaming soup4 ,it had to smell very good1 else it was no more than tasted--folk did not care to dull the edge of appetite needlessly1 with so much before them4 ,for the table was fully set--a stuffed ham at one end1 a chicken or partridge pie at the other1 side dishes of smothered rabbit1 or broiled chicken1 at least four kinds of sweet pickle1 as many of jelly and sour pickle1 a castor full of catsups1 tomato and walnut1 plain vinegar1 pepper vinegar1 red and black pepper1 and made mustard1 all the vegetables in season--,i have seen corn pudding1 candied sweet potatoes1 ,irish potatoes1 mashed and baked1 black-eyed peas1 baked peaches1 apples baked in sugar and cloves1 cabbage boiled with bacon1 okra1 stewed tomatoes1 sliced raw tomatoes1 cucumbers cut up with young onions1 beets boiled and buttered1 and string beans1 otherwise snaps1 all at one spread4 ,only epicures dressed their lettuce at table4 ,one cranky old family friend had it served to him in a water bucket1 set beside him on the floor4 ,he shook it free of water1 cut it1 without bruising1 to wide ribbons1 covered them thickly with hard-boiled egg-yolk mashed fine1 then poured upon it clear ham gravy1 and strong vinegar1 added salt and pepper1 black and red--then ate his fill4 ,but1 of course1 he did not do that at dinings4 ,for then1 if lettuce appeared1 it was cut up1 dressed with vinegar1 salt1 sugar1 and pepper1 but guiltless of oil1 garnished with rings of hard-boiled egg--and very generally1 and justly1 neglected4 ,still the hostess had the satisfaction of feeling she had offered it--that she had indeed offered more than could have been reasonably expected4 ,there was water to drink1 also cider in season1 also milk1 sweet and sour1 and the very best of the homemade wine4 ,decanters of it sat up and down the table--you could fill up and come again at pleasure4 ,the one drawback was--it was hard to eat properly1 when you were so interrupted by helpings to something else4 ,if there was a fault in our old-time cooking1 it was its lack of selection4 ,i think those who gave dinings felt uneasy if there was unoccupied room for one more dish4 ,dessert was likewise an embarrassment of riches4 ,cakes in variety1 two sorts of pie1 with ice cream or sherbet1 or fresh fruit1 did not seem too much to those dear ,ladies ,bountiful4 ,there was no after-dinner coffee4 ,in cold weather coffee in big cups1 with cream and sugar1 often went with the main dinner4 ,hot apple toddies preceded it at such times4 ,in hot weather the precursor was mint julep1 ice cold4 ,yet we were not a company of dyspeptics nor drunkards--by the free and full use of earth's abounding mercies we learned not to abuse them4 ,birthday ,barbecue3 7,dorothy ,dix47 ,as refined gold can be gilded1 barbecue1 common1 or garden variety1 can take on extra touches4 ,as thus3 ,kill and dress quickly a fine yearling wether1 in prime condition but not over-fat1 sluice out with cool water1 wipe dry inside and out with a soft1 damp cloth1 then while still hot1 fill the carcass cram-full of fresh mint1 the tenderer and more lush the better1 close it1 wrap tight in a clean cloth wrung very dry from cold salt water1 then pop all into a clean1 bright tin lard stand1 with a tight-fitting top1 put on top securely1 and sink the stand head over ears in cold water--a spring if possible4 ,do this around dusk and leave in water until very early morning4 ,build fire in trench of hard wood logs before two o'clock4 ,let it burn to coals--have a log fire some little way off to supply fresh coals at need4 ,lay a breadth of galvanized chicken-wire--large mesh--over the trench4 ,take out carcass--split it half down back bone1 lay it flesh side down1 on the wire grid1 taking care coals are so evenly spread there is no scorching4 ,after an hour begin basting with the sop4 ,it is made thus4 ,best butter melted1 one pound1 black pepper ground1 quarter pound1 red pepper pods1 freed of stalk and cut fine to almost a paste1 half a pint1 strong vinegar1 scant pint1 brandy1 peach if possible though apple or grape will answer1 half a pint4 ,cook all together over very slow heat or in boiling water1 for fifteen minutes4 ,the sop must not scorch1 but the seasoning must be cooked through it4 ,apply with a big soft swab made of clean old linen1 but not old enough to fray and string4 ,baste meat constantly4 ,put over around four in the morning1 the barbecue should be done1 and well done1 by a little after noon4 ,there should be enough sop left to serve as gravy on portions after it is helped4 ,the meat1 turned once1 has a fine crisped surface1 and is flavored all through with the mint1 and seasoning4 ,illustration3 ,soap and ,candles ,dip-candles ,i never saw in common use--but ,mammy showed me how they were made back at ,ole ,marster's1 in the days when candle-molds were not to be had4 ,dipped or molded1 the candles were of varying substance4 ,tallow was the main reliance--mutton tallow as well as that from our beeves4 ,it was tried out fresh1 and hardened with alum in the process4 ,the alum was dissolved in a little water1 and put with the raw fat as it went over the fire4 ,by and by the water all cooked away1 leaving the alum well incorporated through the clear fat4 ,lacking it1 a little clear lye went in--,mammy thought and said1 the lye ate up the oil in the tallow1 making it firmer and whiter4 ,but lye and alum could not go in at the same time1 since being alkaline and acid1 they would destroy each other4 ,great pains were taken not to scorch the tallow--that meant smelly and ill-colored candles4 ,after straining it clear of cracklings1 it was caked in something deep1 then turned out and laid on the highest shelf in the lumber house to await molding time4 ,cakes of beeswax were kept in the ,jackson press1 so children1 white and black1 could not take bites for chewing4 ,it ranked next to native sweet gum for such uses--but ,mammy felt it had much better be saved to mix with the tallow at melting time4 ,it made the candles much firmer1 also bettered their light1 and moreover changed the tallow hue to an agreeable very pale yellow4 ,bee hives1 like much else1 were to a degree primitive--the wax came from comb crushed in the straining of honey4 ,it was boiled in water to take away the remnant sweetness1 then allowed to cool on top the water1 taken off1 and remelted over clean water1 so manipulated as to free it from foreign substances1 then molded into cakes4 ,one cake was always set apart for the neighborhood cobbler1 who melted it with tallow and rosin to make shoemaker's wax4 ,another moiety was turned into grafting wax--by help of it one orchard tree bore twelve manners of fruit4 ,and still another1 a small1 pretty cake from a scalloped patty pan1 found place in the family work basket--in sewing by hand with flax thread1 unless you waxed it1 it lost strength1 and quickly pulled to pieces4 ,we bought our flax thread in skeins1 but ,mammy loved to tell of spinning it back in the days when she was young1 and the best spinner on the old plantation4 ,she still spun shoe-thread for her friend the cobbler1 who1 however1 furnished her the raw flax1 which he had grown1 rotted and hechtelled1 in his bit of bottom land4 ,there were still spinning and weaving in plenty at our house--,mother had made1 yearly1 jeans1 linsey1 carpets and so on--but the plantation was not wholly clothed with homespun1 as had been the case in her father's house4 ,return we to our candle-making4 ,it was work for the very coldest weather--even though we had two sets of molds1 needs must the candles harden quickly if the making was to speed well4 ,molds could be filled at the kitchen hearth1 then set outside to cool4 ,for dipping the tallow-pot had to be set over an outside fire1 and neighbored by a ladder1 laid flat on trestles with smooth boards laid underneath4 ,mammy spun the candle wicks--from long-staple cotton1 drawing it out thick1 and twisting it barely enough to hold together4 ,it must not be too coarse1 as it had to be doubled over reeds at top1 either for molding or dipping4 ,the molds were of candle-shape1 joined in batteries of six or twelve1 with a pert handle at one side1 and tiny holes at the tips1 through which the wick-ends were thrust1 by help of a long broom-straw4 ,well in place they were drawn taut1 the reeds so placed as to hold the wicks centrally1 then tallow melted with beeswax1 in due proportion1 was poured around till the molds were brim full--after which they were plunged instantly into a tub of cold water standing outside4 ,this to prevent oozings from the tip--hot grease is the most insidious of all substances4 ,only in zero weather would the first oozings harden enough to plug the orifice quickly4 ,when the candles had hardened properly1 the mold was either held over the fire1 or thrust in hot water half a minute1 then the candles withdrawn by help of the reeds4 ,they were cooled a bit1 to save the softened outside1 then nubbed of surplus wick1 and laid in a dish outside4 ,careless or witless molders1 by laying candles still soft upon the pile1 often made themselves double work4 ,tallow for dipping1 was kept barely fluid1 by setting it over embers a little way off the fire4 ,the pot had to be deep1 so the wicks could be sunk in it to full length4 ,they were thus sunk by stickfuls1 lifted up quickly1 and hung between the ladder rungs to drip4 ,half the tallow on them dripped away--indeed1 after the first dipping they looked little more than clotted ghosts of themselves in their last estate4 ,in very cold weather three drippings sufficed--otherwise there must be four or five4 ,since the dip was the result of cooled accretions1 it was always top-heavy--much bigger at the nose than the base4 ,a quick and skilled worker1 though1 could dip a hundred candles in the time required to mold two dozen4 ,they burned out so quickly that was a crowning mercy--half a dozen was the average of a long winter evening4 ,further they ran down1 in great masses--hence the importance of saving up drippings4 ,even molded candles made them plentiful enough to be worth re-molding4 ,this unless discolored with the brass of candlesticks--in that case their last end was soap grease4 ,rush lights were dips--this ,i state on information and belief1 since ,i never saw one4 ,also on information and belief1 it is here set forth1 that folk in the back countries where wicking was not easily had1 used instead of wicks1 splinters of fat pine1 known as light wood4 ,in proof1 take ,candle ,wood ,mountain1 whose name is said to have come from furnishing such fat pine1 and of a special excellence4 ,the pine splinters must1 ,i think1 have given a better light than real wicks--my father1 in ,tennessee1 never ceased sighing for the lightwood1 which had made such cheery illumination back in his boyhood1 in a ,carolina home4 ,every sort of waste fat became at the last1 soap grease4 ,bones even were thrown into kettles of lye1 which ate out all their richness1 leaving them crumbly1 and fit for burying about the grapevines4 ,hence the appositeness of the darkey saying1 to express special contempt of a suitor3 ,my ,lawd6 ,i wouldn't hab dat nigger1 not eben for soap grease4 ,which has always seemed to me1 in a way1 a classic of condemnation4 ,soap making came twice a year--the main event in ,march1 to get free of things left over from hog killing1 the supplement in ,september or ,october1 to use up summer savings4 ,each was preceded by dripping lye4 ,this necessitated wood ashes1 of course--ashes from green wood4 ,oak or hickory was best4 ,they were kept dry until they went into hoppers1 where they were rotted by gentle wetting for a space of several days4 ,then water was dripped through1 coming out a dark brown caustic liquid1 clean-smelling1 but ill to handle--it would eat a finger-tip carelessly thrust in it to the raw4 ,but even thus it was not strong enough for proper soapmaking1 so it was boiled1 boiled1 until it would eat a feather1 merely drawn quickly through it4 ,grease was added then1 a little at a time1 and stirred well through1 changing the black-brown lye into a light-brown1 bubbly mass4 ,whatever the lye would not eat of the grease's components1 was skimmed out with the big perforated ladle4 ,even beyond candle-molding1 soap-making was an art4 ,mammy never would touch it1 until the right time of the moon4 ,also and further1 she used a sassafras stick for stirring1 put it in the first time with her right hand1 and always stirred the kettle the same way4 ,if a left-handed person came near the kettle she was mightily vexed--being sure her soap would go wrong4 ,she kept on the fire beside it a smaller kettle of clear lye1 to be added at need1 without checking the boiling4 ,boiling down lye took one day1 boiling in grease another4 ,the third morning1 after the fire was well alight1 she tested the soap1 by making a bit into lather4 ,if the lather were clean and clear1 without a film of grease on top1 she knew it remained only to cook the soap down thick enough for the barrel1 or to make into balls by the addition of salt4 ,but if the film appeared--then indeed there was trouble4 ,first aid to it was more lye1 of feather-eating strength--next a fresh sassafras stirring stick1 last and most important1 walking backwards as she put the stick in the kettle1 though she would never admit she did this on purpose4 ,like the most of her race she was invincibly shy about acknowledging her beliefs in charms and conjuring4 ,soap which failed to thicken properly lacked grease4 ,to put in enough1 yet not too much1 was a matter of nice judgment4 ,tallow did not mix well with hog fat4 ,therefore it had commonly its smaller special pot1 whose results were molded for hand-soap1 being hard and rather light-colored4 ,since our washerwomen much preferred soft soap1 most of the spring making went straight into the barrel4 ,the barrel had to be very tight--soap has nearly as great a faculty of creeping through seams as even hot lard4 ,one kettleful1 however1 would have salt stirred through it1 then be allowed to cool1 and be cut out in long bars1 which were laid high and dry to age4 ,old soap was much better for washing fine prints1 lawns1 ginghams and so on--in fact whatever needed cleansing without fading4 ,sundry other fine soap makers emptied their salted soap1 just as it was on the point of hardening1 into shallow pans1 cloth-lined1 and shaped it with bare hands into balls the size of two fists4 ,this they did with the whole batch1 holding hard soap so much easier kept1 and saying it was no trouble whatever to soften a ball in a little hot water upon wash days4 ,but ,mammy would have none of such practices--said give her good soft soap and sand rock1 she could scour anything4 ,sand rock was a variety of limestone1 which burning made crumbly1 but did not turn to lime4 ,mammy picked it up wherever she found it1 beat it fine and used it on everything--shelves1 floors1 hollow-ware1 milk pans1 piggins1 cedar water buckets--it made their brass hoops shine like gold4 ,while she scoured she told us tales of the pewter era--when she had gone1 a barefoot child1 with her mother1 to the ,rush ,branch1 to come home with a sheaf of rushes1 whereby the pewter was made to shine4 ,it hurts even yet1 recalling the last end of that pewter4 ,as glass and crockery grew plenty1 the boys--my uncles1 there were five of them--melted it down for rifle bullets1 when by chance they ran out of lead4 ,yet--who am ,i1 to reproach them--did not ,i myself1 melt down for a purpose less legitimate a fine ,brittania ware teapot1 whose only fault was a tiny leak8 ,now ,i should prize it beyond silver and gold4 ,harking back to candle-making--we had no candle-berries in our wilds1 and only a few wax-berries as ornaments of our gardens4 ,but from what ,i know by observation and experience1 the candle-berries or bayberries1 can be melted in hot water1 the same as honey-comb1 and the wax strained away from the seedy residue1 then allowed to cool1 on top the water1 and clarified by a further melting and cooling over water4 ,mixed with paraffine it can be molded into real bayberry candles1 ever so much more odorous than those of commerce4 ,it is well to remember in buying paraffine that there are three qualities of it1 differing mainly in the degree of heat at which they melt4 ,choose that which is hardest to melt for candle-making4 ,one might indeed1 experiment with bayberry wax1 and the drippings of plain paraffine candles1 before undertaking candle-making to any considerable extent4 ,a last word4 ,if any incline to challenge things here set forth1 will they please remember that as one star differs from another in glory1 so does one family1 one region1 differ from all others in its manners of eating1 drinking1 and cooking4 ,i have written true things1 but make no claim that they apply all over4 ,indeed there may be those to whom they will seem a transversing of wisdom and experience4 ,to all such ,i say1 try them intelligently1 with pains and patience1 and of the results1 hold fast to that you find good4 ,illustration ,,index ,,bacon ,hogs to ,choose1 #dj ,chilling1 #dj ,cutting up1 #dj ,salting1 #db ,curing1 #de ,smoke1 #de ,smoke ,houses1 #df ,smoke ,hogshead1 #dh ,time of ,smoking1 #di ,keeping1 #ej ,lard ,rendering1 #ej ,sausage1 #eb ,souse1 #ec ,hog's ,foot ,oil and ,jelly1 #ed ,brains1 ,pickled1 #ee ,souse1 ,pickled1 #ee ,hog's ,feet ,fried1 #ee ,backbone1 ,stew and ,pie1 #ef ,keeping ,sausage1 #eg ,,breads ,flour and ,meal1 #bf ,mixing1 #bh ,beaten ,biscuit1 #bh ,soda ,biscuit1 #cj ,salt ,rising ,bread1 #ca ,sweet ,potato ,biscuit1 #cb ,waffles1 #cc ,corn ,bread1 ,plain1 #cd ,egg ,bread1 #ce ,batter ,cakes1 #ce ,ash ,cake1 #cf ,mush ,bread1 #cf ,cracklin' ,bread1 #cg ,pumpkin ,bread1 #cg ,mush ,batter ,cakes1 #ch ,wafers1 #ch ,nut ,bread1 #bai ,,cakes ,secret of ,success1 #acf ,mixing1 #acg ,sweetening ,strong ,butter1 #ach ,baking1 #aci ,frosting1 #adj ,pound ,cake1 #adj ,spice ,cake1 #adb ,marble ,cake1 #adc ,real ,gold ,cake1 #adc ,real ,silver ,cake1 #add ,christmas ,cake1 #ade ,white ,layer ,cake1 #adg ,cream ,cake1 #adh ,sponge ,cake1 #adh ,white ,sponge ,cake1 #adi ,angel's ,food1 #adi ,chocolate ,cake1 #adi ,orange ,cake1 #aej ,dream ,cakes1 #aej ,shrewsbury ,cakes1 #aea ,queen ,cakes1 #aea ,banbury ,cakes1 #aeb ,oatmeal ,cookies1 #aeb ,tea ,cakes1 #aec ,soft ,gingerbread1 #aec ,mammy's ,ginger ,cakes1 #aed ,family ,gingerbread1 #aee ,solid ,chocolate ,cake1 #aee ,coffee ,cake1 #aee ,ginger ,snaps1 #aef ,kisses1 #aeg ,,candles1 #bib ,,creole ,,cookery ,milly1 #aah ,court ,bouillon1 #abj ,court ,bouillon1 ,spanish1 #aba ,bouillabaisse1 #abb ,shrimps1 ,boiling1 #abd ,baked ,shrimp1 #abe ,shrimp ,pie1 #abe ,shrimp ,salad1 #abf ,fried ,soft-,shell ,crabs1 #abf ,daube a la ,mode1 #abg ,cold ,daube a la ,creole1 #abh ,grillades with ,gravy1 #abi ,chicken ,saute a la ,creole1 #acj ,quail1 ,roasted1 #aca ,creole ,french ,dressing1 #acb ,mayonnaise ,dressing1 #acc ,remoulade ,dressing1 #acc ,,drinks ,cherry ,bounce1 #gb ,grape ,cider1 #gc ,persimmon ,beer1 #gd ,egg ,nogg1 #ge ,white ,egg ,nogg1 #gf ,apple ,toddy1 #gf ,hail ,storm1 #gg ,mint ,julep1 #gg ,lemon ,punch1 #gh ,punch a la ,ruffle ,shirt1 #gi ,peach ,liqueur1 #hb ,strawberry ,liqueur1 #hc ,blackberry ,cordial1 #hc ,blackberry ,wine1 #hd ,strawberry ,wine1 #he ,gooseberry ,wine1 #he ,grape ,wine1 #hf ,muscadine ,wine1 #hg ,fruit ,vinegars1 #hh ,boiled ,cider1 #hi ,bruleau1 #acd ,drip ,coffee1 #acd ,boiled ,coffee1 #bce ,chocolate1 #bcg ,tea1 #bcd ,,eggs ,new ,laid ,eggs1 #agf ,keeping1 #agf ,varieties1 #agg ,roasted ,eggs1 #agh ,baked ,eggs1 #agi ,potato ,egg ,puffs1 #agi ,egg ,dumplings1 #ahj ,egg ,spread1 #ahj ,poached ,eggs1 #aha ,egg ,fours1 #ahb ,stuffed ,eggs1 #ahc ,fried ,eggs1 #ahd ,,fruit ,,desserts ,affinity for ,liquors1 #bab ,strawberries in ,mixtures1 #bac ,peach ,mixtures with ,brandy1 #bad ,fruit ,mixtures with ,sherry ,syrup1 #bad ,white ,grape-,orange ,mixture1 #bad ,cherries with ,bananas1 #bae ,fruit with ,wine ,jelly1 #bae ,,game ,preparation1 #afe ,rabbit or ,squirrel ,smothered1 #agb ,rabbit or ,squirrel ,barbecued1 #agc ,quail1 #agc ,wild ,duck1 #agd ,possum1 ,roasted1 #age ,,hams ,boiled ,ham1 #ei ,fried ,ham1 #fc ,broiled ,ham1 #fd ,mutton ,ham1 #ff ,beef ,hams1 #fh ,rabbit ,hams1 #gj ,fresh ,ham1 #gj ,,meats ,barbecued ,lamb1 #aeh ,roast ,pork1 #aei ,beefsteak with ,bacon and ,onions1 #afj ,boned ,fresh ,ham1 #afa ,roast ,beef1 #afc ,pot ,roast1 #afc ,leg of ,mutton in ,blanket1 #afd ,roast ,turkey or ,capon1 #afg ,guinea ,hen in ,casserole1 #afh ,chickens in ,blankets1 #afi ,fried ,chicken1 #afi ,smothered ,chicken or ,ducklings1 #agj ,chicken ,croquets ,glorified1 #aga ,chicken-,turkey ,hash1 #agb ,,pickles ,brine1 #bbj ,pickle ,barrel1 #bba ,potential ,pickles1 #bba ,pickling from ,brine1 #bbc ,water ,melon ,pickle1 #bbc ,mangoes1 #bbd ,walnut ,pickle1 #bbf ,peach ,sweet ,pickle1 #bcc ,,pies ,philosophy of ,pie-,crust1 #ij ,puff ,paste1 #ia ,raised ,crust1 #ic ,french ,puff ,paste1 #id ,everyday ,crust1 #ie ,cobbler ,pies1 #ie ,fried ,pies1 #ig ,green ,apple ,pie1 #ih ,lemon ,custard1 #ii ,cream ,pie1 #ii ,damson and ,banana ,tart1 #ii ,amber ,pie1 #ajj ,jelly ,pie1 #aja ,cheese ,cakes1 #aja ,sweet ,potato ,custard1 #ajd ,sweet ,potato ,pie1 #ajd ,apple ,custard1 #aje ,molasses ,pie1 #aje ,mystery ,pie1 #ajf ,butter ,scotch ,pie1 #ajf ,raspberry ,cream ,pie1 #ajg ,rhubarb ,pie and ,sauce1 #ajg ,banana ,pie1 #ajh ,,preserves ,preserving ,fruit1 #bbg ,ginger ,pears1 #bcj ,tutti ,frutti1 #bcj ,green ,tomato ,preserves and ,citron1 #bca ,brandy or ,pickled ,cherries1 #bcb ,brandy ,peaches and ,pears1 #bcc ,dried ,fruit1 #bci ,peach and ,apple ,butter1 #bde ,keeping ,cider ,sweet1 #bdi ,peach ,chips1 #bej ,dried ,cherries1 #bej ,peach ,leather1 #bea ,tomato ,figs1 #bea ,jelly-,making1 #bec ,quince ,jelly and ,marmalade1 #bed ,,puddings ,banana ,pudding1 #aji ,sweet ,potato ,pudding1 #aji ,poor ,man's ,pudding1 #aaj ,boiled ,batter ,pudding1 #aaa ,apple ,pudding1 #aaa ,apple ,dumplings1 #aab ,crumb ,pudding1 #aab ,blackberry ,mush1 #aac ,peach ,pudding1 #aad ,ginger ,pudding1 #aad ,nesselrode ,pudding1 #aae ,thanksgiving ,pudding1 #aae ,christmas ,pudding1 #aae ,pudding ,sauce1 #aag ,fig ,pudding1 #aef ,quince ,pudding1 #bec ,,relishes ,cold ,slaw1 #aib ,tomato ,soy1 #aic ,table ,mustard1 #aic ,cabbage ,pickle1 #aid ,cauliflower ,pickle1 #aid ,pear ,relish1 #aie ,cherries ,piquant1 #aif ,gooseberry ,jam ,spiced1 #aif ,frozen ,cranberry ,sauce1 #aig ,apple ,sauce ,gone to ,heaven1 #aig ,spiced ,grapes1 #aii ,spiced ,plums1 #bjj ,sweet-,sour ,pears1 #bjj ,baked ,peaches1 #bja ,,salads ,wedding ,salad1 #ahh ,fruit ,salad1 #ahi ,sweet ,french ,dressing1 #aij ,banana and ,celery ,salad1 #aia ,red ,white ,salad1 #aia ,pineapple ,salad1 #aia ,,sandwiches ,making ,sandwiches1 #baf ,sardine ,sandwiches1 #bag ,sundry ,cheese ,sandwiches1 #bag ,lettuce and ,cheese ,sandwiches1 #bag ,ham and ,tongue ,sandwiches1 #bah ,cheese and ,sherry ,sandwiches1 #bah ,,soups ,vegetable ,soup1 #ahe ,black ,turtle1 ,bean ,soup1 #ahf ,gumbo1 #ahg ,,soap1 #bih ,,upon ,,occasions ,infares1 #beg ,weddings1 #beh ,wedding ,tables1 #beh ,cut1 ,papers1 #bei ,chandeliers3 ,home-made1 #bei ,wedding ,cakes1 #bfa ,bride's ,cake1 #bfc ,wedding ,suppers1 #bfe ,syllabub1 #bfg ,boiled ,custard1 #bfh ,orange ,lilies1 #bfi ,party ,suppers1 #bgj ,ambrosia1 #bgj ,barbecues1 #bgc ,barbecue1 #bgc ,barn ,dances1 #bgh ,birthday ,barbecue1 #bij ,baskets1 #bha ,chicken1 ,loaf1 #bhd ,dinings1 #bhf ,,vegetables ,tomato1 ,layer1 #bjb ,corn ,pudding1 #bjc ,fried ,corn1 #bjc ,hulled ,corn1 #bjd ,steamed ,potatoes1 #bje ,candied ,sweet ,potatoes1 #bjf ,tipsy ,potatoes1 #bjf ,left-,over ,sweet ,potatoes1 #bjg ,potato ,balls1 #bjg ,bananas1 #bjh ,baking ,vegetables1 #bjh ,cauliflower1 au ,gratin1 #baj ,boiling with ,bacon1 #baa ,pot ,liquor1 #bab 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious punctuation errors were corrected4 ,page #af1 evenning changed to evening 7by way of evening things7 ,page #aji1 egg yolks changed to egg-yolks 7up four egg-yolks7 ,page #abf1 hardboiled changed to hard-boiled 7sliced hard-boiled eggs7 ,page #adb1 egg yolks changed to egg-yolks 7other1 seven egg-yolks7 ,page #aed1 repeated word called removed from text4 ,original read 7be called called ,first 7 ,page #aig1 seive changed to sieve 7through coarse sieve7 ,page #bcc1 twenty four changed to twenty-four 7in twenty-four hours more7 ,page #beh1 famly changed to family 7his family gave the7 ,page #bfa1 heartcakes changed to heart-cakes 7demanded four heart-cakes7 ,pge #caf1 ,red-,white changed to ,red and ,white 7,red and ,white ,salad1 #aia7 ,page #cag1 ,bran changed to ,barn 7,barn dances1 #bgh7 ,the text uses variant hyphenation and spelling4 ,where a majority could not be ascertained1 as in egg-yolks1 the variations were retained4 cheesecake cheese cake corn-bread corn bread allspice alspice soapmaking soap-making