,transcrib]'s ,note3  ,! pr9t$ ,errata h
 be5 correct$ 9 ! text4 ,a few          
additional pr9t]'s errors h be5         
correct$1 details ( ! corrections c be  
f\nd at ! end ( ?is e-text4         99  
99       99       99       99     ,,art 
,,9 ,,ne$lework     ,,text-,,books ,,(  
,,ornam5tal ,,design   ,,art ,,9        
,,ne$lework  ,a ,,book ,,ab\t           
,,embroid]y  ,,by  ,,lewis ,f4 ,,day    
,,au?or ,,( ',,w9d[s1' ',,alphabets1'   
',,nature ,,9 ,,ornam5t' ,,& ,,o!r      
,,text-,,books ,,( ,,ornam5tal ,,design 
,,m>y ,,buckle   ,,london3 ,b4 ,t4      
,,bats=d #id ,,high ,,holborn #aijj     
,,bradbury1 ,,agnew1  ,,co4 ,,ld41      
,,pr9t]s1 ,,london ,,& ,,tonbridge4     
,,preface4   ,embroid]y may be look$ at 
f m po9ts ( view ?an x w\ld be possible 
9 a book l ?is to take up s]i\sly4      
,m]ely to hov] r\nd ! subject & glance  
casually at x w\ld s]ve no useful       
purpose4 ,x may be z well1 !re=e1 to    
def9e our /&po9t3 we look at ! art f its
 practical side1 n1 ( c\rse1 neglect+ ! 

arti/ic1 = ! practical use ( embroid]y  
is to be beautiful4  ,! cu/om has be51  
s9ce woman le>nt to kill "t ) ! ne$le1  
to ?9k ( embroid]y too mu* z an idle    
accompli%m5t4 ,x is m ?an t4 ,at ! v    
lea/ x is a h&icraft3 at ! be/ x is an  
art4 ,?is cont5tion may be to take x r  
s]i\sly2 b if "o e/eem$ x less x w\ld   
h>dly be wor? writ+ ab\t1 & ! book1 :5  
writt51 w\ld n be wor? ! att5tion (     
/ud5ts ( embroid]y1 ne$lework]s1 &      
design]s ( ne$lework to :om x is        
address$4 ,x sets =? to %[ :at          
decorative /it*+ is1 h[ x is done1 & :at
 x c d4 ,x is illu/rat$ by sampl]s (    
/it*es2 by diagrams1 to expla9 ! way    
/it*es are done2 & by examples ( old &  
mod]n "w1 to %[ ! arti/ic application ( 
! /it*es4  ,a feature 9 ! book is !     
s]ies ( sampl]s design$ to %[ n only :at
 are ! available /it*es1 b ! gr\ps into 
:i* !y naturally ga!r !mselves1 z well z
 ! use to :i* !y may be put3 & ! back ( 
! sampl] is giv5 too3 ! read] has only  
to turn ! page to see ! o!r side ( !    

/it*+--:i* to a ne$lewoman is (t5 ! m   
helpful4 ,le/ t %\ld n be en\gh1 !      
/it*es are describ$ 9 ! text1 & a m>g9al
 note %[s at a glance :]e ! description 
is giv54 ,?is %\ld be read ne$le & ?read
 9 h&--or skipp$4 ,sampl]s & o!r        
examples ( ne$lework are uni=mly on a   
scale l>ge en\gh to %[ ! /it* q pla9ly4 
,! examples ( old "w illu/rate always1 9
 ! fir/ place1 "s po9t ( workman%ip2    
/ill !y are *os5 ) "s view to _! arti/ic
 int]e/4  ,9 o!r respects ,art is n     
ov]look$2 b x is ,art 9 h>ness4 ,design 
is discuss$ ) ref]5ce to /it* & /uff1 & 
/it* & /uff ) ref]5ce to _! use 9       
ornam5t4 ,x has be5 endeav\r$ also to %[
 ! effect ne$lework has _h ^u patt]n1 & 
! ways 9 :i* design is affect$ by !     
circum/ance t x is to be embroid]$4  ,! 
jo9t au?or%ip ( ! "w ne$s1 p]haps1 a ^w 
( explanation4 ,?is is n j a man's book 
on a woman's subject4 ,! s*eme ( x is   
m9e1 & ,i h writt5 x1 b ) ! co-op]ation 
?r\gh\t ( ,miss ,m>y ,buckle4 ,our      
classification ( ! /it*es is ! result ( 

_m a conf]5ce betwe5 u4 ,! description (
 ! way ! /it*es are work$1 & s =?1 is my
 r5d]+ ( h] description1 supplem5t$ by  
practical demon/ration ) ! ne$le4 ,%e   
has prim$ me ) te*nical in=mation1 & be5
 always at h& to keep me f te*nical     
error4 ,) ref]5ce to design & art ,i    
speak = myself4  ,my ?anks are due to ! 
au?orities at ,s\? ,k5s+ton = all[+ u to
 h&le ! treasures ( ! national          
collection1 & to photograph !m =        
illu/ration2 to ,mrs4 ,walt] ,crane1    
,miss ,mabel ,keighley1 & ,miss ,c4 ,p4 
,%rewsbury1 = p]mission to reproduce _! 
h&iwork2 to ,miss ,argles1 ,mrs4 ,buxton
 ,morri%1 ,colonel ,gre51 ,r4,e41 &     
,messrs4 ,morris & ,co41 = ! loan ( "w  
belong+ to !m2 & to ,miss ,*>t = work+ !
 cross-/it* sampl]4  ,i mu/ also        
ackn[l$ge ! "p my daught] has _h 9 !    
production ( ?is book3 )\t h] con/ant   
help x c\ld nev] h be5 writt54          
,,lewis ,f4 ,,day4      ,janu>y #a/1    
#aijj4     ,,cont5ts4       ,,*ap4      
,,page       #a4 ,,embroid]y ,,&        

,,embroid]y ,,/it*es                    
#a       #b4 ,,canvas ,,/it*es          
#ab       #c4 ,,crewel-,,/it*           
#bf       #d4 ,,*a9-,,/it*              
#ch       #e4 ,,h]r+-,,bone-,,/it*      
#dg       #f4 ,,buttonhole-,,/it*       
#ee       #g4 ,,fea!r ,,& ,,ori5tal     
,,/it*es                                
#fb       #h4 ,,rope ,,& ,,knot ,,/it*es
                                     #ga
       #i4 ,,int]lac+s1 ,,surface       
,,/it*es1 ,,& ,,diap]s                  
#hc      #aj4 ,,sat9-,,/it* ,,& ,,its   
,,(f%oots                               
#ia      #aa4 ,,d>n+                    
#ajf      #ab4 ,,laid-,,"w              
#aab      #ac4 ,,c\*+                   
#abb      #ad4 ,,c\*$ ,,gold            
#aca      #ae4 ,,applique               
#add      #af4 ,,inlay1 ,,mosaic1 ,,&   
,,cut-,,"w                              
#aec      #ag4 ,,embroid]y ,,9 ,,relief 
#aei      #ah4 ,,rais$ ,,gold           
#afe      #ai4 ,,quilt+                 
#agb      #bj4 ,,/it* ,,gr\ps           

#age      #ba4 ,,"o ,,/it* ,,or ,,_m8   
#ahj      #bb4 ,,outl9e                 
#ahe      #bc4 ,,%ad+                   
#ahh      #bd4 ,,figure ,,embroid]y     
#aih      #be4 ,,! ,,direction ,,( ,,!  
,,/it*                                  
#bjh      #bf4 ,,*ur* ,,"w              
#baf      #bg4 ,a ,,plea ,,=            
,,simplicity                            
#bbe      #bh4 ,,embroid]y ,,design     
#bcb      #bi4 ,,embroid]y ,,mat]ials   
#bdb      #cj4 ,a ,,^w ,,to ,,! ,,work] 
#bej     ,,descriptive ,,li/ ,,(        
,,illu/rations4   #a4 ,,tape/ry--to     
illu/rate "w on a w>p n on a web4 ,f    
,akhm9 9 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,anci5t ,coptic4 
7,9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum47  #b4 
,,drawn-,,"w ,,on ,,f9e ,,l951 embroid]$
 ) gold & col\r4 ,ori5tal4 7,f !        
collection ( ,mrs4 ,lewis ,f4 ,day47    
#c4 ,,d>n+ ,,& ,,sat9-,,/it* on squ>e   
me%--,! d>n+ leaf1 gre51 foll[s ! l9es (
 ! /uff2 outl9$ ) yell[1 ve9$ ) p9k &   
:ite2 /em1 yell[1 its foliation p9k1    
outl9$ ) :ite1 & ribb$ ) blue & :ite4   

,italian4 #ag? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47   
#d4 ,,cross-,,/it* ,,^u ,,l954          
,hung>ian4 ,comp>e ,illu/ration #de4    
#e4 ,,cross-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a & ,b1   
solid2 ,c1 l9e "w2 ,d1 /roke-/it*--call$
 also ,holbe9-/it*2 ,e1 /roke & cross   
/it*es comb9$4  #f4 ,,canvas-,,/it* 9   
col\r$ silk ^u l954 ,! b& ,italian1 !   
foliat$ diap] ,ori5tal4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4  
,d47  #g4 ,,canvas-,,/it*--,design      
comp>atively free1 b %[+ 9 its outl9e ! 
influ5ce ( ! rectangul> l9es ( ! weav+4 
,cretan4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #h4       
,,canvas-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a1 t5t-/it*2 
,b1 half-cross-/it*2 ,c1 cu%ion-/it*2   
,d1 ,moori%-/it*1 s call$2 ,e1          
plait-/it*2 ,f1 c\*+ on canvas4  #i4    
,,cu%ion ,,& ,,sat9-,,/it*es ,,^u       
,,canvas--,! ,sat9-/it*es foll[ ! l9es (
 ! /uff1 & =m a diap] built ^u !m4      
,comp>e ,illu/ration #ga4  #aj4 ,,two   
,,v>ieties ,,( ,,canvas-,,/it*1 ! patt]n
 9 ! b>e l951 ! backgr\nd work$--,a1    
plait-/it*1 ! ornam5t outl9$2 ,b1 /it*es
 drawn tightly toge!r s z to pull !     

?reads ( ! l95 ap>t1 giv+ v mu* ! effect
 ( drawn-"w4 ,comp>e ,illu/ration #b4   
7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #aa4               
,,crewel-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a & ,c1      
crewel-/it*2 ,b & ,d1 outl9e-/it*2 ,e1  
back-/it*2 ,f1 spots2 ,g & ,h1 /em-/it*2
 ,j1 crewel & outl9e-/it*es 9           
comb9ation4  #ab4 ,,back ,,(            
,,crewel-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  #ac4         
,,crewel-,,"w--! /em only work$ 9       
crewel-/it*4 ,embroid]$ 9 gre51 blue1 & 
br[n wools ^u :ite cotton4 ,old ,engli%4
 7,coll4 ( ,miss ,argles47  #ad4        
,,crewel-,,"w1 9 :i* crewel-/it* h>dly  
occurs4 ,embroid]$ 9 col\r$ wools ^u    
:ite cotton4 ,old ,engli%4 7,coll4 ( ,j4
 ,m4 ,knapp1 ,esq47  #ae4               
,,crewel-,,/it* ,,9 ,,twi/$ ,,silk4 ,!  
scroll 9 gre5 ^u a br[ni%-purple gr\nd2 
! small] leafage ^u ! scroll 9 bright]  
gre52 ! fl[]s & butt]flies 9 blue & p9k4
 ,mod]n4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,day47  #af4    
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,& ,,knots--,"p ( ! same  
piece ( "w z ,illu/ration #bd4 ,indian4 
7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #ag4 ,,*a9-,,/it*       

,,sampl]--,a1 *a9-/it* solid & 9 l9e2   
,b1 magic /it*2 ,c1 *ur* *a92 ,d1 cable 
*a92 ,e1 ,v&yke *a92 ,f1 ,m\ntmellic    
*a92 ,g1 ,m\ntmellic cable--all s call$4
  #ah4 ,,back ,,( ,,*a9-,,/it* ,,sampl]4
  #ai4 ,,*a9 ,,& ,,surface ,,/it*es--!  
latt] a k9d ( buttonhol+1 only          
occasionally work$ 9to ! /uff4 ,"p ( a  
lect]n cov] 9 :ite ?read ^u a ?91 greyi%
 :ite l95 /uff4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4    
7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #bj4 ,,h]r+bone         
,,sampl]--,a1 ,b1 ,c1 v>ieties (        
h]r+-bone2 ,d1 a comb9ation ( ,a & ,c2  
,e1 fi%bone2 ,f1 a close v>iety ( ,a2   
,g1 tape/ry /it*1 s call$4  #ba4 ,,back 
,,( ,,h]r+bone ,,sampl]4  #bb4          
,,buttonhole ,,sampl]--,a1 ,b1 ,c1      
ord9>y buttonhole & v>iations ^u x2 ,d1 
two r[s ( buttonhole work$ slant+ "o    
into ! o!r2 ,e1 cross$ buttonhole2 ,f1  
tailor's buttonhole2 ,g1 ladd] 7call$   
also ,cretan7 /it*2 ,h1 h]r+bone        
buttonhole2 ,j1 buttonhole diap]4  #bc4 
,,back ,,( ,,buttonhole ,,sampl]4  #bd4 
,,buttonhole1 ,,*a91 ,,& ,,knot         

,,/it*es--*iefly 9 :ite floss silk on   
d>k purple sat91 ) t\*es ( crimson at ! 
po9ts f :i* ! /it*es radiate4 ,! r+s on 
! out] gr\nd are n work$1 b done 9 !    
dye+ ( ! sat94 ,"p ( ! same piece ( "w z
 #af4 ,mod]n ,indian f ,surat4 7,v4  ,a4
 ,m47  #be4 ,,fea!r-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a 
to ,g1 ord9>y fea!r-/it* & its          
v>iations2 ,g ,g1 fea!r *a94  #bf4      
,,back ,,( ,,fea!r-,,/it* ,,sampl]4     
#bg4 ,,ori5tal-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a to   
,e1 ,ori5tal-/it* & its v>ieties2 ,f1   
,ori5tal-/it* work$ into buttonhole2 ,g1
 n prop]ly a =m ( ,ori5tal-/it*1 ?\gh   
be>+ "s resemblance to x4  #bh4 ,,back  
,,( ,,ori5tal-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  #bi4    
,,rope ,,& ,,knot-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a1  
rope-/it*2 ,b1 op5 rope-/it*2 ,c1 :at is
 call$ ,g]man knot-/it*2 ,d1 op5 ,g]man 
knot-/it*2 ,e1 ,old ,engli% knot-/it*1 s
 call$2 ,f1 bullion-/it*2 ,g1 ,fr5*     
knots4  #cj4 ,,back ,,( ,,rope ,,&      
,,knot-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  #ca4 ,a        
,,t\r-,,de-,,=ce ,,9 ,,knots--,work$    
entirely 9 ! "o /it*2 ! draw+ l9es      

express$ by void+4 ,9 :ite & col\r$     
silks ^u a v d>k blue gr\nd4 ,*9ese4    
7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #cb4               
,,int]lac+-,,/it* ,,sampl]--,a1         
,int]lac$ crewel-/it*2 ,b1 int]lac$     
back-/it*2 ,c1 back-/it* twice int]lac$2
 ,d1 int]lac$ *a9-/it*2 ,e1 int]lac$    
d>n+2 ,f1 int]lac$ h]r+bone2 ,g1        
h]r+bone twice int]lac$2 ,h1 an int]lac$
 v]sion ( ,c 9 ,illu/ration #bj2 ,j1    
int]lac$ ,ori5tal-/it*2 ,k1 int]lac$    
fea!r-/it*4  #cc4 ,,back ,,( ,,int]lac+ 
,,sampl]4  #cd4 ,,surface-,,/it*        
,,sampl]--,a1 ,d1 ,g1 v>i\s surface     
/it*es2 ,b1 surface buttonhole2 ,h & ,c1
 surface d>n+2 ,e1 ,japanese d>n+1 z x  
is call$2 ,f1 net pass+2 ,j1 surface    
buttonhole ov] b>s2 ,k1 surface         
buttonhole ov] slant+ /it*es4  #ce4     
,,lace ,,or ,,surface-,,/it* ,,&        
,,sat9-,,/it*1 mu* ( x worn away4 ,9    
/raw-col\r$ floss ^u pale blue silk4 ,"p
 ( a dress4 ,fr5*4 ,late #ah? c5tury4   
7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #cf4 ,,sat9-,,/it* 
,,sampl]--,work$ 9 floss1 ! /it* 9 v>i\s

 directions1 to give diff]5t effects4   
,incid5tally x %[s v>i\s ways ( break+  
up a surface 9 sat9-/it*4 ,comp>e )     
,illu/ration #ch1 :i* %[s ! effect ( !  
/it* 9 twi/$ silk4  #cg4 ,,back ,,(     
,,sat9-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  #ch4           
,,sat9-,,/it* ,,9 ,,co>se ,,twi/$       
,,silk4  #ci4 ,,sat9-,,/it* ,,9 ,,twi/$ 
,,silk--,outl9es void$4 ,work$ 9 :ite & 
occasional r$ & yell[ ^u black sat94    
,indian4 ,mod]n4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #dj4   
,,sat9-,,/it* ,,&1 on ! birds' bodies1  
,,plumage-,,/it*--,! ends ( ! /alks     
work$ 9 ,fr5* knots2 ! ve9s ( ! leaves 9
 f9e :ite cords laid on to ! sat9 /it*4 
,! outl9es void$1 & ! void+ occasionally
 work$ across ) /it*es wide en\gh ap>t  
to %[ ! gr\nd betwe54 ,9 :ite &         
bright-col\r$ silk floss ^u a black sat9
 gr\nd4 ,*9ese4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47     
#da4 ,,sampl]--,%[+ (f%oots f sat9 &    
crewel /it*es1 & incid5tally illu/rat+  
v>i\s ways ( %ad+4 ,a1 crewel-/it*2 ,b1 
plumage-/it*1 work$ 9 ! h&2 ,c1         
split-/it*2 ,d1 plumage-/it*1 work$ 9 ! 

frame4  #db4 ,,back ,,( ,,sampl] #da4   
#dc4 ,,d>n+ ,,sampl]--,except 9 !       
backgr\nd ! /it*es foll[ ! l9es ( !     
draw+1 reg>dless ( ! weav+ ( ! /uff4 ,! 
cu/om>y outl9+ ( ! patt]n is "h omitt$1 
to %[ h[ f> x may1 or may n1 be ne$ful4 
#dd4 ,,d>n+--,,design$ ,,by ,,william   
,,morris4 ,9 delicate col\rs ^u a       
sea-gre5 gr\nd1 outl9$ ) black & :ite4  
,"p ( ! bord] ( a table-clo?1 ! prop]ty 
( ,messrs4 ,morris  ,co4  #de4 ,,flat   
,,d>n+--,solid & op51 foll[+ ! l9es ( a 
squ>e me%1 & /epp+ 9 tune ) x2 ! outl9e 
void$2 all 9 :ite ?read4 ,old ,g]man4   
7,gew]bs ,museum1 ,muni*47  #df4        
,,laid-,,"w ,,sampl]1 %[+ v>i\s ways    
7split-/it* & c\*+7 9 :i* ! sew+ d[n may
 be done1 & ! v>i\s directions x may    
take--v]tical1 horizontal1 foll[+ !     
ornam5tal =ms1 or cross+ !m4  #dg4      
,,laid-,,"w--,! c\*+ crosses ! fl[] =ms 
9 /raight l9es2 & 9 ! eye ( ! fl[] :]e !
 ?reads cross1 ! two are sewn d[n at a  
s+le /it*4 ,! spiral /ems a sort ( laid 
cord4 ,fl[] 9 blue1 sewn ) blue & outl9$

 ) gold2 leaves1 a bright fre% gre5     
/it*$ ) olive4 ,japanese4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47
  #dh4 ,,laid-,,"w4 ,! sew+ d[n ( !     
leaves crosses !m 9 curv$ l9es :i*      
sugge/ r\ndness4 ,! /em 9 gold basket   
patt]n4 ,"p ( a cov]let4 ,work$ ^u a    
c$>-col\r$ gr\nd *iefly 9 d>k blue &    
:ite1 ! blue c\*$ ) :ite1 ! :ite & o!r  
col\rs c\*$ ) r$4 ,indo-,portuguese4    
#ag? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #di4       
,,laid-,,"w ,,& ,,"s ,,surface-,,/it*4  
,! /it*+ :i* sews d[n ! floss takes !   
direction ( ! scroll1 c41 & gives draw+4
 ,! surface "w 9 ! /ems is done ^u a    
ladd] ( /it*es across4 ,"p ( a *alice   
veil4 ,italian4 ,e>ly #ag? c5tury4 7,v4 
,a4 ,m47  #ej4 ,,laid-,,"w ,,sampl]--,! 
/raight l9es ( laid floss v>i$ 9 col\r  
to sugge/ %ad+4 ,! /alk padd$1 & !      
patt]n made by ! /it*+ ^u x !reby       
emphasis$4  #ea4 ,,bullion ,,& ,,c\*$   
,,cord--,a1 ,! some:at loose design ( ! 
bord] 9 bullion %[s r pla9ly ! way x is 
done4 ,b1 ,! solid discs ( spiral cord  
are unusual1 b mo/ *>act]i/ic ( ! me?od 

( c\*+4 ,! /it*es sew+ d[n ! cord are n 
app>5t4 ,ori5tal4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47   
#eb4 ,,sampl] ,,( ,,c\*$ ,,silk--,!     
broad c5tral b& & ! n>r[ bead$ l9es are 
9 floss1 & %[ ! effect ( sew+ x m or    
less tightly d[n4 ,! two int]m$iate b&s 
are 9 cord c\*$ ) ?reads 9 ! direction (
 its twi/1 n v easily di/+ui%able unless
 by contra/ ( col\r4  #ec4 ,,c\*+ ,,9   
,,loop$ ,,?reads--,! effect is n unlike 
t ( *a9-/it* or f9e knott+4 ,r ov]      
actual size4 ,work$ 9 bright col\rs ^u a
 pale gre5 crepe gr\nd4 ,*9ese4 7,mrs4  
,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #ed4 ,,rev]se ,,c\*+--,%[+
 on ! face ( x no sign ( c\*+4 7,aft] ! 
mann] ( ! ,syon ,cope47  #ee4 ,,back ,,(
 ,,rev]se ,,c\*+--,%[+ ! p>allel l9es ( 
c\*$ l95 ?read :i* sew d[n ! silk ^u !  
surface 7,illu/ration #ed74 ,! zigzag   
patt]n ( ! /it*+ might equally well h   
tak5 o!r l9es4  #ef4 ,,c\*$ ,,gold      
,,sampl]--,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 flat "w2 ,e1  
"p flat1 "p rais$2 ,f1 ,g1 ,h1 ,j1      
basket & o!r patt]ns rais$ ov] cords4   
#eg4 ,,c\*+ ,,9 ,,v>i\s ,,diap]         

,,patt]ns1 ,,outl9$ ,,9 ,,"p ,,)        
,,plate4 ,silv] on pale p9k silk4       
7,coll4 ( ,mrs4 ,t4 ,buxton ,morri%47   
#eh4 ,,gold ,,c\*+ ,,9 ,,op5            
,,?reads--,a1 ,! l9es ( gold :i* =m a   
scale patt]n on ! dragon's body1 are    
wide en\gh ap>t to let ! r$ gr\nd gr9   
?r\gh4 ,else:]e ! c\*+1 contr>y to      
m$iaeval practice1 foll[s ! %apes1 l9e  
)9 l9e until !y are occupi$4 ,! floss   
embroid]y1 9 :ite & col\rs1 is 9        
surface-sat9-/it*4 ,*9ese4 ,b1 ,! op5   
l9es ( gold look someh[ ri*] ?an if !   
metal _h be5 work$ solid ^u ! crimson   
gr\nd4 ,old ,v5etian4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4    
,d47  #ei4 ,,c\*$ ,,outl9e ,,"w2 only an
 occasional detail work$ solid2 sugge/s 
damasc5+4 ,! bord] is 9 gold1 ! fill+ 9 
silv]1 ?read on a greyi%-gre5 velvet4   
,"p ( an ,italian h\s+ or saddleclo?4   
#af? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #fj4       
,,applique--,sat9 ^u velvet1 outl9$ )   
two ?reads ( gold c\*+4  #fa4 ,,applique
 ,,panel--,design$ & execut$ by ,miss   
,mabel ,keighley1 illu/rat+ a poem by   

,william ,morris4 7,! prop]ty ( !       
arti/47  #fb4 ,a4 ,,c\nt]-,,*ange       
,,patt]n1 ,,inlay ,,or                  
,,applique4--,yell[ sat9 & crimson      
velvet4 ,! outl9e1 :i* is 9 gold1 falls 
*iefly ^u ! yell[1 s z n to di/urb !    
exact balance ( light & d>k1 :i* x is   
ess5tial to pres]ve 9 c\nt]-*ange4 ,"p (
 a /ole4 ,spani%4 #af? c5tury 7,v4  ,a4 
,m47      ,b4 ,,applique1 ( deep crimson
 velvet ^u :ite sat91 outl9$ ) pal] r$  
cord4 ,! outl9es1 meet+ toge!r1 =m a /em
 ( d\ble cord4 ,italian4 #ag? c5tury4   
7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #fc4 ,,applique1 ) c\*$ 
outl9e1 & /it*+ ^u ! applique b& or     
ribbon4 ,! dots 9 ! c5tre ( ! grapes are
 ,fr5* knots4 ,! patt]n is 9 sat9 (     
v>i\s col\rs1 ^u a figur$ gre5 silk     
damask1 outl9$ ) yell[ silk sewn d[n )  
yell[4 ,italian4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #fd4   
,,inlay ,,9 ,,col\r$ ,,clo?s1 outl9$ )  
*a9 /it*4 ,magic /it* also occurs4 ,a   
*>act]i/ic example ( ! k9d ( "w done at 
,ret%t1 9 ,p]sia4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47   
#fe4 ,,cut-,,"w ,,9 ,,l95--,a fret ( ?is

 k9d 0 (t5 outl9$ ) col\r$ silk1 & !    
detail )9 ! frett$ outl9e fur!r         
embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silk4 7,coll4 ( ,mrs4
 ,drake47  #ff4 ,,sampl] ,,( ,,rais$    
,,"w1 %[+ und]lays3 ,a1 ( clo?2 ,b1 (   
twi/$ cords2 ,c1 ( p>*m5t2 ,d1 ( cotton 
wool2 ,e1 fir/ ( cotton cord & !n (     
cotton ?read2 ,f1 ( cord2 ,g1 ( /r+2 ,h1
 ( sew+4  #fg4 ,,rais$ ,,"w1 %[+ und]lay
 ( l951 & ! way x is sewn d[n--,! "w is 
9 flax ?read1 r$1 yell[1 & :ite1 ^u a   
blue l95 gr\nd4 ,! /em is dott$ ) :ite  
beads1 ! gr\nd ) gold spangles4 ,"p ( an
 alt> frontal4 ,g]man4 #ae? c5tury4 7,v4
  ,a4 ,m47  #fh4 ,,rais$ ,,gold ,,basket
 ,,patt]ns1 c41 ^u :ite sat94 ,! /alk 9 
flat wire4 ,spani%4 #ag? c5tury4 7,mrs4 
,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #fi4 ,,quilt1 ,,work$ ,,9 
,,*a9-,,/it* f ! back--:i* has precisely
 ! effect ( back-/it*4 ,yell[ silk ^u   
:ite l954 ,old ,engli%4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  
#gj4 ,,rais$ ,,quilt+1 9 black silk ^u  
pale sea-gre5 sat94 ,"p ( ! bord] ( a   
pray] cu%ion4 ,old ,p]sian4 7,mrs4 ,l4  
,f4 ,d47  #ga4 ,,diap] ,,( ,,sat9-,,/it*

 ,,9 ,,! ,,mak+--,some?+ betwe5         
canvas-/it* & sat9-/it*4 ,! leafage is 9
 t5t-/it*4 ,comp>e ) ,illu/ration #i4   
7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #gb4 ,,/it*es ,,9       
,,comb9ation--,among !m ,ori5tal1 ladd]1
 buttonhole1 *a91 crewel1 sat91 &       
h]r+bone /it*es1 work$ 9 d>k blue silk  
^u unblea*$ l954 ,old ,cretan1 s call$4 
7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #gc4 ,,f9e         
,,ne$lework ,,^u ,,cambric--! sub/ance (
 :i* is app>5t ^u ! upp] edge ( ! "w4 ,9
 ! gr\nd-"w ( ! patt]n g5]ally ! ?reads 
are drawn toge!r to =m an op5 net4 ,!   
/it*es occurr+ 9 ! coll> ( :i* ?is is "p
 are1 buttonhole1 sat91 *a91 h]r+bone1  
cross1 & back /it*es4 ,! outl9e is mo/ly
 9 f9e cross-/it*4 ,no?+ c\ld exce$ !   
delicacy ( ! workman%ip1 :i* is 9 its   
k9d p]fect4 ,old ,engli%4 7,coll4 (     
,col4 ,gre51 ,r4,e47  #gd4 ,,"p ,,( ,a  
,,design ,,by ,,walt] ,,crane1 cunn+ly  
adapt$ to execution 9 ne$lework4 ,%[s ! 
direction ( ! /it*1 & ! "p x c be made  
to play 9 express+ =m4 ,work$ 9 col\r$  
silks ^u l95 by ,mrs4 ,walt] ,crane1 ^: 

prop]ty ! "w is4  #ge4 ,,%ad+ ,,9       
,,*a9-,,/it* 9 silk & *5ille ^u a sat9  
gr\nd4 ,! %ad+ v delib]ately s*em$ by ! 
design]4 ,9 natural col\rs ^u :ite4     
,fr5*4 ,l\is ,seize4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47     
#gf4 ,,%ad+ ,,9 ,,%ort ,,/it*es2        
picturesque to ! po9t ( a t\* ( :ite 9 !
 gli/5+ yell[ ( ! dove's eye4 ,*5ille1 9
 *a9-/it*1 is us$ = ! wrea? & 9 ! leaves
 ( ! fl[] sprigs4 ,^! are 9 col\rs1 !   
birds are 9 silv]y greys1 all on a :ite 
sat9 gr\nd4 ,fr5*4 ,l\is ,seize4 7,v4   
,a4 ,m47  #gg4 ,,%ad+ ,,9               
,,long-,,&-,,%ort ,,& ,,split ,,/it*es1 
) m reg>d to expression ( =m ?an to     
neatness ( execution4 ,g]man4 #af?      
c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #gh4            
,,*a9-,,/it*1 %[+ 9 ! figures ( ! little
 m5 :at a draughtsman c express 9 a few 
/it*es4 ,full size4 ,*9ese4 7,mrs4 ,l4  
,f4 ,d47  #gi4 ,,figure ,,"w--,! fle% 9 
/raight upright /it*es1 ! drap]y laid & 
c\*$4 ,engli%4 #ae? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4   
,m47  #hj4 ,,consummate ,,figure        
,,embroid]y--,canvas gr\nd entirely     

cov]$4 ,fle% 9 col\r$ silks1 %ort-/it*2 
drap]y col\r$ silks ov] gold1 :i* only  
gleams ?r\gh 9 ! light] p>ts4           
,ar*itecture closely c\*$ gold4 ,"p ( an
 orphrey4 ,flor5t9e4 #af? c5tury4 7,v4  
,a4 ,m47  #ha4 ,,*9ese ,,figures--,!    
fle% 9 %ort sat9-/it*es1 ! re/ 9        
*a9-/it*2 *iefly 9 blue & :ite ^u a     
figur$ :ite silk gr\nd4 ,ab\t actual    
size4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #hb4         
,,sat9-,,/it*1 %[+ ! influ5ce ( its     
direction ^u ! tone ( col\r4 ,! patt]n  
is all 9 "o %ade ( yell[-br[n floss ^u  
:ite l954 ,! outl9e /eps ) ! weav+1 & s 
%[s connection betwe5 sat9 & canvas     
/it*es4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4
 ,m47  #hc4 ,,mean+less ,,direction ,,( 
,,/it*--,sat9 & h]r+-bone /it*es4 ,f an 
alt>-clo?4 ,g]man4 #ag? c5tury4 7,v4    
,a4 ,m47  #hd4 ,,m ,,expressive ,,l9es  
,,( ,,/it*+--,to comp>e ) ,illu/ration  
#hc4  #he4 ,,sat9 ,,& ,,plumage ,,/it*es
 *iefly1 ! bird's cre/ 9 ,fr5* knots1 ! 
cl\ds ab\t him 9 knott$ braid4 ,!       
direction ( ! /it* is mo/ artfully *os51

 & ! precision ( ! "w is faultless4 ,!  
sat9 gr\nd is ( brilliant orange-r$2 !  
crane1 :ite1 ) black tail fea!rs1 sc>let
 cre/1 & yell[ beak & legs2 ! cl\ds1    
black & :ite & blue4 ,japanese4 7,mrs4  
,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #hf4 ,,r5aissance ,,*ur*  
,,"w ,,9 ,,gold ,,& ,,silv]1 p>tly flat1
 p>tly 9 relief1 ^u pale blue sat91 )   
t\*es ( p9k & crimson silk to give      
emphasis4 ,spani%4 #ah? c5tury4 ,comp>e 
! /em ) ,illu/ration #ff1 ,b4 7,v4  ,a4 
,m47  #hg4 ,,go?ic ,,*ur* ,,"w--,! fle%1
 c41 9 split-/it*2 ! v9e-leaves gre51   
gett+ yell[] z x ne>s ! crimson silk    
gr\nd4 ,"p ( a cope embroid]$ ) a       
repres5tation ( ! ,tree ( ,jesse4       
,engli%4 ,ca4 #acdj4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47     
#hh4 ,,mod]n ,,*ur* ,,"w ,,on ,,l951 9  
long-&-%ort /it*4 ,ve9s padd$ )         
embroid]y cotton & work$ ov] ) two      
?reads ( filo-floss1 a gre5 & a blue2 ! 
re/ ( ! leaves work$ 9 "o %ade ( /\t    
floss4 ,all ?is appli$ to velvet ) a    
c\*+ ( br[n filoselle1 & ! t5drils add$4
 ,design$ & execut$ by ,miss ,c4 ,p4    

,%rewsbury4 7,! prop]ty ( ! arti/47     
#hi4 ,,simple ,,/it*+ ,,on ,,l951 !     
broad] b&s 9 a canvas /it* 9 yell[1 !   
f9] l9es 9 back-/it* 9 pale grey silk4  
,italian4 7,mrs4 ,l4 ,f4 ,d47  #ij4     
,,simple ,,c\*$ ,,outl9e ,,"w1 9 purpli%
 silk cord ^u l954 ,"p ( an alt>-clo?4  
,italian4 #af? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47   
#ia4 ,,r5aissance ,,ornam5t--,mo/       
gracefully design$ arabesque4 ,! rais$  
outl9e 7c\*$7 has some:at ! effect (    
cloisons1 ! sat9-/it* 79 col\rs7 (      
brilliant enamel4 ,x is ^u a :ite sat9  
gr\nd4 ,! =e%ort5$ face 9 ! picture is  
pa9t$ ^u sat94 ,italian4 ,ca4 #agjj4    
7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #ib4 ,,applique         
,,design1 9 yell[ sat9 ^u crimson       
velvet--,d\ble outl9e2 next ! r$1 :ite1 
sewn ) pale blue2 next ! yell[1 gold4   
,midrib ( ! leaf c\*$ silv]4 ,spani%1   
#af? c5tury4 7,v4  ,a4 ,m47  #ic4       
,,sat9-,,/it*--except t ! he>t-%ap$     
features at ! base & ! lily-%ap$ fl[]s1 
( :i* only ! tips are %[n1 are outl9$ ) 
f9e :ite cord4 ,"p ( a fan1 work$ by    

,miss ,buckle1 f a design by ,l4 ,f4 ,d4
 7,! prop]ty ( ! work]47  #id4 ,,lea!r  
,,applique ,,^u ,,velvet--,! /it*+ well 
)9 ! edge ( ! lea!r4     ,,errata4      
,page #cj4 ,diagram belongs to ,g       
7,/em-,/it*7 describ$ on page #cb1 n ,c 
7,?ick ,crewel-,/it*74  ,page #abe1 #bnd
 l9e4 ,= l[] read upp]4     ,,art ,,9   
,,ne$lework4     ,,embroid]y ,,&        
,,/it*+4   ,embroid]y beg9s ) ! ne$le1 &
 ! ne$le 7?orn1 fi%-bone1 or :atev] x   
may h be57 came into use s soon z ev]   
savages _h ! wit to sew sk9s & ?+s      
toge!r to keep !mselves w>m--mode/y1 we 
may take x1 0 an aft]?\ght--& if !      
/it*es made any sort ( patt]n1 z co>se  
/it*+ naturally w\ld1 t 0 embroid]y4  ,!
 t]m is (t5 vaguely us$ to d5ote all    
k9ds ( ornam5tal ne$lework1 & "s ) :i* !
 ne$le has no?+ to d4 ,t is mislead+2   
?\gh x is true t embroid]y does t\*1 on 
! "o side1 tape/ry1 :i* may be describ$ 
z a k9d ( embroid]y ) ! %uttle1 &1 on ! 
o!r1 lace1 :i* is ne$lework pure &      
simple1 con/ruction 9 ! air z ! ,italian

 "n has x4  ,! t]m is us$ 9 common      
p>lance to express any k9d ( sup]ficial 
or sup]flu\s ornam5tation4 ,a poet is   
said to embroid] ! tru?4 ,b su*         
metaphorical use ( ! ^w h9ts at ! real  
nature ( ! "w--embelli%m5t1 enri*m5t1   
add$4 ,if add$1 !re mu/ fir/ ( all be   
some?+ x is add$ to--! mat]ial1 t is to 
say1 on :i* ! ne$lework is done4 ,9     
weav+ 7ev5 tape/ry weav+7 ! patt]n is   
got by ! int]-?read+ ( w>p & weft4 ,9   
lace1 too1 x is got out ( ! ?reads :i*  
make ! /uff4 ,9 embroid]y x is got by   
?reads work$ on a fabric fir/ ( all wov5
 on ! loom1 or1 x might be1 nett$4  ,!re
 is inevitably a c]ta9 am\nt ( ov]lapp+ 
( ! crafts4 ,= in/ance1 take a =m (     
embroid]y common 9 all c\ntries1 ,ea/]n1
 ,hung>ian1 or ne>] home1 9 :i* c]ta9 ( 
! weft ?reads ( ! l95 are drawn out1 & !
 ne$lework is execut$ ^u ! w>p ?reads   
?us reveal$4 ,?is is1 /rictly speak+1 a 
sort ( tape/ry ) ! ne$le1 j z1 x 0      
expla9$1 tape/ry itself may be describ$ 
z a sort ( embroid]y ) ! %uttle4 ,t w be

 cle>ly se5 by ref]5ce to ,illu/ration  
#a1 :i* %[s a fragm5t ( anci5t tape/ry  
f\nd 9 a ,coptic tomb 9 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,9
 ! l[] portion ( x ! patt]n appe>s light
 on d>k4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 x 0 wr\ght 9
 :ite & r$ ^u a l95 w>p2 b1 z x happ5$1 
only ! :ite ?reads 7 ( l951 l ! w>p1 !  
r$ 7 wooll51 & 9 ! c\rse ( fifte5 hundr$
 ye>s or s mu* ( ?is r$ wool has p]i%$1 
leav+ ! :ite patt]n intact on ! w>p1 !  
?reads ( :i* are laid b>e 9 ! upp] "p ( 
! illu/ration4  ,illu/ration3 #a4       
,,tape/ry1 ,,%[+ ,,w>p4  ,x is on j su* 
upright l9es ( w>p t all tape/ry1       
prop]ly s call$1 is work$--:e!r ) !     
%uttle or ) ! ne$le makes no matt]--&   
!re is good reason1 !re=e1 = ! "n (     
tape/ry /it* to describe ne$lework ^u ! 
w>p ?reads only ( a mat]ial 7usually    
l957 f :i* "s ( ! weft ?reads h be5     
)drawn4  ,! only diff]5ce betwe5 true   
tape/ry & drawn "w1 an example ( :i* is 
"h giv51 is1 t ! "o is done on a w>p t  
has n be=e be5 wov5 ^u1 & ! o!r on a w>p
 f :i* ! weft ?reads h be5 drawn4 ,!    

di/9ction1 !re=e1 betwe5 tape/ry &      
embroid]y is1 t1 work$ on a w>p1 z 9    
,illu/ration #a1 x is tape/ry2 work$ on 
a me%1 z 9 ,illu/ration #c1 x is        
embroid]y4  ,illu/ration3 #b4 ,,drawn   
,,"w4  ,) reg>d1 aga91 to lace4 ,t is   
itself a web1 indep5d5t ( any gr\ndwork 
or f\ndation to support x4 ,b x is      
possible to "w x ov] a silk5 or o!r     
surface2 & !re is a k9d ( embroid]y :i* 
only floats on ! surface ( ! mat]ial )\t
 p5etrat+ x4 ,a fragm5t ( la/ c5tury    
silk giv5 9 ,illu/ration #ce %[s pla9ly 
:at is meant4  ,illu/ration3 #c4 ,,/it*+
 ,,on ,a ,,squ>e ,,me%4  ,embroid]y is  
enri*m5t by means ( ! ne$le4 ,to        
embroid] is to "w on some?+3 a gr\ndwork
 is presuppos$4 ,& we usually und]/& by 
embroid]y1 ne$lework 9 ?read 7x may be  
wool1 cotton1 l951 silk1 gold1 no matt] 
:at7 ^u a textile mat]ial1 no matt] :at4
 ,9 %ort1 x is ! decoration ( a mat]ial 
wov5 9 ?read by means /ill ( ?read4 ,x  
is ?us ! consi/5t way ( ornam5t+        
/uff--mo/ consi/5t ( all :5 "o k9d (    

?read is employ$ ?r\gh\t1 z 9 ! case (  
l95 ^u l951 silk ^u silk4 ,! enri*m5t   
may1 h[ev]1 rightly be1 & (t5e/ is1     
p]haps1 9 a mat]ial nobl] ?an ! /uff    
enri*$1 9 silk ^u l951 9 wool ^u cotton1
 9 gold ^u velvet4 ,! advisability (    
work+ ^u a preci\s /uff 9 ?read less    
preci\s is op5 to "q4 ,x does n seem to 
h be5 satisfactorily done2 b if x 7 only
 ! backgr\nd t 0 work$1 & ! patt]n 7 s  
s*em$ z almo/ to cov] x1 s t1 9 fact1 v 
little ( ! m beautiful texture 0        
sacrific$1 & y _h /ill a sumptu\s patt]n
 on a less attractive backgr\nd--:y n8  
,b !n x w\ld be because y want$ t less  
preci\s texture !re4 ,! excuse ( economy
 w\ld sc>cely hold good4  ,9 ! case ( a 
mat]ial 9 itself unsightly1 ! "o c\rse  
is to cov] x entirely ) /it*+1 z did !  
,p]sian & o!r untireable p ( ! ,ea/4 ,b 
n !y only4 ,! fam\s ,syon cope is s     
cov]$4 ,mu* ( ! "w s done1 all-ov] "w t 
is to say1 competes 9 effect ) tape/ry  
or o!r weav+2 & its purpose 0 simil>3 x 
is a sort ( amateur way ( work+ y\r own 

/uff4 ,b 9 "* x is no m ne>ly relat$ to 
! "w ( ! loom ?an o!r ne$lework--x is   
/ill "w on /uff4 ,= all-ov] embroid]y "o
 *ooses1 naturally1 a co>se canvas gr\nd
 to "w on2 b x m (t5 happ5s t "o *ooses 
canvas because "o means to cov] x1 ?an t
 "o works all ov] a gr\nd because x is  
unpres5table4  ,embroid]y is m]ely an   
affair ( /it*+2 & ! fir/ ?+ ne$ful alike
 to ! work] 9 x & ! design] = x is1 a   
?or\gh acqua9tance ) ! /it*es2 n1 (     
c\rse1 ) e modification ( a modification
 ( a /it* :i* individual +5uity may h   
devis$--x w\ld ne$ ! space ( an         
encyclopa$ia to *ronicle !m all--b ) !  
broadly m>k$ v>ieties ( /it* :i* h be5  
employ$ to be/ purpose 9 ornam5t4  ,!y  
are d]iv$1 naturally1 f ! /it*es fir/   
us$ = q practical & prosaic             
purposes--buttonhole /it*1 = example1 to
 keep ! edges ( ! /uff f fray+2         
h]r+-bone1 to /r5g!n & disguise a seam2 
d>n+1 to make good a worn surface2 & s  
on4  ,! difficulty ( discuss+ !m is     
greatly increas$ by ! haphaz>d way 9 :i*

 !y are commonly nam$4 ,a /it* is call$ 
,greek1 ,spani%1 ,mexican1 or :at n1    
accord+ to ! c\ntry :5ce came ! "w 9 :i*
 "s "o fir/ f\nd x4 ,ea* names x aft] 8 
or h] individual discov]y1 or calls x1  
p]haps1 vaguely ,ori5tal2 & s we h any  
numb] ( names = ! same /it*1 names :i*  
to diff]5t p /& (t5 = q diff]5t /it*es4 
,:5 ?is confusion is complicat$ by !    
inv5tion ( a new "n = e conceivable     
comb9ation ( ?read-/rokes1 or = ea*     
slighte/ v>iation ^u an old /it*1 & ev5 
= a /it* work$ f left to "r in/ead ( f  
"r to left1 or = a /it* work$ r long]   
?an usual1 ! task ( r$uc+ !m to ord]    
seems almo/ hopeless4  ,nor d !         
quasi-le>n$ descriptions ( old /it*es   
help u mu*4 ,"o reads ab\t opus ?is &   
opus t1 until "o beg9s to wond] :]e1    
amid/ all ?is p>ade ( sci5ce1 art comes 
94 ,b y h n f> to g 9 ! /udy ( !        
au?orities to discov] t1 ?\gh !y may    
concur 9 us+ c]ta9 high-s\nd+ ,lat9     
t]ms1 !y are n ( ! same m9d z to _!     
mean+4 ,9 "o ?+ !y all agree1 =eign     

writ]s z well z ,engli%1 & t is1 z to ! 
difficulty ( id5tify+ ! /it* ref]r$ to  
by anci5t writ]s1 !mselves probably n   
acqua9t$ ) ! te*nique ( /it*+1 & z      
likely z n to call x by a wrong "n4 ,x  
is easi]1 = example1 to talk ( ,opus    
,anglicanum ?an to say precisely :at x  
01 fur!r ?an t x describ$ "w done 9     
,engl&2 & = t we h ! simple ^w--,engli%4
 ,!re is no?+ to %[ t m$iaeval ,engli%  
"w conta9$ /it*es n us$ else:]e4 ,!     
/it*es probably all come f ! ,ea/4      
,nom5clature1 !n1 is a sn>e4 ,:y n drop 
titles1 & call /it*es by ! pla9e/ & lea/
 mi/akable names8 ,x w be se51 if we    
r$uce !m to _! native simplicity1 t !y  
fall into fairly-m>k$ gr\ps1 or         
families1 :i* c be discuss$ ea* "u its  
own head4  ,/it*es may be gr\p$ 9 all   
mann] ( arbitr>y ways--accord+ to _!    
prov5ance1 accord+ to _! effect1 accord+
 to _! use1 & s on4 ,! mo/ natural way (
 gr\p+ !m is accord+ to _! /ructure2 n )
 reg>d to :5ce !y came1 or :at !y d1 b  
accord+ to :at !y are1 ! way !y are     

work$4 ,?is1 at all ev5ts1 is no        
arbitr>y classification1 & ?is is ! plan
 x is propos$ "h to adopt4  ,! use ( su*
 classification h>dly ne$s po9t+ out4   
,a survey ( ! /it*es is ! necess>y      
prelim9>y1 ei!r to ! design or to !     
execution ( ne$lework4 ,h[ else suit !  
design to ! /it*1 ! /it* to ! design8 ,9
 ord] to d ! "o ! arti/ mu/ be q at home
 among ! /it*es2 9 ord] to d ! o!r !    
embroidress mu/ h sympa?y en\gh ) a     
design to *oose ! /it* or /it*es :i* w  
be/ r5d] x4 ,an arti/ :o ?9ks ! work+   
out ( 8 sket* none ( 8 bus9ess is no    
practical design]2 ! work] :o ?9ks      
design a ?+ ap>t f h] is only a work]4  
,?is is n ! mom5t to urge ^u !          
ne$lewoman ! /udy ( design1 b to urge ^u
 ! design] ! /udy ( /it*es4 ,no?+ is m  
impractical ?an to make a design )\t    
realis+ ! lab\r involv$ 9 its execution4
 ,any "o n 9 sympa?y ) /it*+ may        
possibly design a beautiful piece (     
ne$lework1 b no "o w get all t is to be 
got out ( ! ne$le )\t kn[+ all ab\t x4  

,"o mu/ und]/& ! ways 9 :i* "w c be done
 9 ord] to det]m9e ! way x %all 9 any   
p>ticul> case be done4  ,c]ta9 /it*es   
answ] c]ta9 purposes1 & /rictly only ^?4
 ,! design] mu/ "k :i* /it* answ]s :i*  
purpose1 or he w 9 ! fir/ place wa/e !  
lab\r ( ! embroidress1 & 9 ! second miss
 8 effect1 :i* is to wa/e 8 own pa9s    
too4 ,! effective work] 7design] or     
embroid]]7 is ! "o :o works ) judgm5t--&
 y _c judge unless y "k4 ,:5 x is       
rememb]$ t ! "* ( ne$lework1 & by rights
 also ! "* ( its design1 dep5ds ^u !    
/it*1 !re w be no occasion to insi/     
fur!r ^u ! necessity ( a compreh5sive   
survey ( ! /it*es4  ,a /it* may be def9$
 z ! ?read left on ! surface ( ! clo? or
 :at n1 aft] ea* ply ( ! ne$le4  ,& !   
simple /raight=w>d /it*es ( ?is k9d are 
n s _m z "o might suppose4 ,!y may be   
r$uc$ inde$ to a comp>atively few types1
 z w be se5 9 ! foll[+ *apt]s4          
,,canvas ,,/it*es4   ,! simple/1 z x is 
mo/ likely ! e>lie/ us$1 /it*-gr\p is   
:at might be/ be call$ ,,canvas /it*--( 

:i* cross-/it* is p]haps ! mo/ famili>  
type1 ! class ( /it*es :i* come (       
foll[+1 z x is only natural to d1 ! me% 
( a co>se canvas1 net1 or op5 web ^u :i*
 ! "w is done4  ,a /it* be>s always1 or 
%\ld be>1 "s relation to ! mat]ial on   
:i* x is work$2 b canvas or v co>se l95 
almo/ compels a /it* bas$ ^u ! cross    
l9es ( its wo(1 & inde$ sugge/s designs 
( equally rigid con/ruction4 ,t is s 9  
embroid]y no matt] :]e4 ,9 anci5t       
,byzant9e or ,coptic "w1 9 mod]n ,cretan
 "w1 & 9 peasant embroid]y all ! _w ov]1
 patt]n "w on co>se l95 has run         
p]si/5tly into angul> l9es--9 :i*1      
because ( t v angul>ity1 ! pla9 outcome 
( a way ( work+1 we f9d arti/ic "*4     
,arti/ic design is always expressive (  
its mode ( workman%ip4  ,"w ( ?is k9d is
 n too lightly to be dismiss$4 ,!re is  
art 9 ! r5d]+ ( =m by means ( angul>    
outl9es1 art 9 ! *oice ( =ms :i* c be   
express$ by su* l9es4 ,x is n un*>itable
 to surmise t "o reason :y su* "w 7once 
s univ]sal & n[ q out ( fa%ion7 is n    

popul> ) ne$lewom5 may be1 ! dem& x     
makes ^u ! design]'s draughtman%ip3 x is
 mu* easi]1 = example1 to draw a /ag ?an
 to r5d] ! creature satisfactorily )9   
jagg$ l9es det]m9$ by a l95 me%4        
,illu/ration3 #d4 ,,cross-,,/it*4  ,!   
piquancy ab\t natural or o!r =ms ?us    
r$uc$ to angul>ity argues1 ( c\rse1 no  
affectation ( qua9tness on ! "p ( !     
work]1 b 0 ! unavoidable outcome ( h]   
way ( "w4 ,!re is a pron\nc$ & e>ly     
limit to art ( ?is r naive k9d1 b t !re 
is art 9 "s ( ! v simple/ & mo/ mode/   
peasant "w built up on ^? l9es no arti/ 
w d5y4 ,! art 9 x is usually 9          
proportion to its mode/y4 ,no?+ is m    
futile ?an to put x to any?+ l pictorial
 purpose4 ,! wond]fully wr\ght pictures 
9 t5t-/it*1 = example1 bequea!d to u by 
! #ag? c5tury1 are pa9ful object lessons
 9 :at n to d4  ,! orig9 ( ! t]m        
cross-/it* is n f> to seek3 ! /it*es    
work$ ^u ! squ>e me% d cross4 ,b1 fall+ 
naturally into ! l9es ( ! me% :i* gov]ns
 !m1 !y pres5t n s mu* ! appe>ance (    

crosses z ( squ>es1 rem9d+ "o ( !       
tess]ae employ$ 9 mosaic4  ,sid5ote3    
,,to ,,"w ,,cross ,,/it*4  ,to expla9 ! 
process ( work+ cross-/it* w\ld be tea*+
 "o's gr&mo!r inde$4 ,x is simply1 z its
 "n implies1 cross+ "o /it* by ano!r1   
foll[+ always ! l9es ( ! canvas4 ,b !   
important ?+ ab\t x is t ! /it*es mu/   
cross always 9 ! same way2 &1 m ?an t1  
!y mu/ be work$ 9 ! same direction1 or !
 m]e fact t ! /it*es at ! back ( ! "w d 
n run 9 ! same way w di/urb ! ev5ness ( 
! surface4 ,:at looks l a seam on !     
sampl] opposite is ! result ( fill+ up a
 gap 9 ! gr\nd ) /it*es necess>ily work$
 9 v]tical1 :]eas ! gr\nd g5]ally is 9  
horizontal1 l9es4 ,on ! face ( ! "w !   
/it*es cross all 9 ! same way4  ,!      
common use ( cross-/it* & ! some:at     
geometric k9d ( patt]n to :i* x l5ds    
itself are %[n 9 ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration 
#e4  ,! broad & simple leafage1 work$   
solid 7,a7 or left 9 ! pla9 canvas ^u a 
gr\ndwork ( solid /it*+ 7,b71 & ! frett$
 diap] on v]tical & horizontal l9es     

7,c71 %[ ! mo/ /raight=w>d ways ( us+ x4
  ,illu/ration3 #e4 ,,cross-,,/it*      
,,sampl]4  ,! criss-cross ( alt]nat+    
cross-/it*es & op5 canvas fram$ by ! key
 patt]n 7,c7 %[s a means ( gett+ some?+ 
l a t9t halfway betwe5 solid "w & pla9  
gr\nd4 ,! m]e "w l9e--or /roke-/it*1 n  
cross$ 7,d71 is a p]fectly fair way (   
gett+ a delicate effect2 b ! design has 
a way ( work+ out r less happily ?an x  
promis$4  ,! addition ( su* /roke-/it*es
 to solid cross-/it* 7,e7 is n at be/ a 
v happy device4 ,x /rikes "o always z a 
confession ( dissatisfaction on ! "p ( !
 work] ) ! simple means ( h] *oice4 ,z a
 device =1 z x 71 correct+ ! /epp$      
outl9e x is at its wor/4 ,timid work]s  
are always afraid ( ! /epp$ outl9e :i* a
 co>se me% gives4 ,9 t !y are wrong4 ,"o
 %\ld employ canvas /it* only :]e !re is
 no objection to a l9e :i* keeps /ep ) !
 canvas2 !n !re is a positive *>m 7=    
frank p at lea/7 9 ! frank confession ( 
! way ! "w is done4  ,!re are _m degrees
 9 ! frankness ) :i* ?is conv5tion has  

be5 accept$1 accord+ p]haps to !        
co>s5ess ( ! canvas gr\nd1 p]haps to !  
p]sonality ( ! work]4 ,! animal =ms at !
 top ( ,illu/ration #f are              
uncompromis+ly squ>e2 ! floral devices  
on ! same page1 ?\gh !y fall1 z x 7     
inevitably1 into squ>e l9es1 are less   
rigidly =mal4 ,! inevitabl5ess ( ! squ>e
 l9e is app>5t 9 ! sprig bel[ 7#g74 ,x 0
 evid5tly meant to be freely drawn1 b ! 
influ5ce ( ! me% betrays itself2 & !    
design1 if x loses some?+ 9 grace1 ga9s 
also !reby 9 "*4  ,illu/ration3 #f4     
,,canvas-,,/it*4  ,illu/ration3 #g4     
,,canvas-,,/it*4  ,!re is lit]ally no   
end to ! v>iety ( /it*es1 z !y are      
call$1 belong+ to ?is gr\p1 & _! names  
are a babel ( confusion4 ,flor5t9e1     
,p>isian1 ,hung>ian1 ,spani%1 ,moori%1  
,ca%m]e1 ,milanese1 ,gobel91 are only a 
few ( !m2 b !y /&1 z a rule1 r = /it*   
arrangem5ts ?an = /it*es4 ,a small      
selection ( !m is giv5 9 ,illu/ration   
#h4  ,sid5ote3 ,,t5t-,,/it* ,a4  ,:at is
 kn[n z t5t-/it* 7,a 9 ! sampl]         

opposite7 is a sort ( half cross-/it*2  
its peculi>ity is t x cov]s only "o     
?read ( ! canvas at a /roke1 & is !re=e 
on a m m9ute scale ?an /it*es :i* are   
two or ?ree ?reads wide1 z cross-/it*   
may1 & cu%ion-/it* mu/1 be4 ,x d]ives   
its "n f ! old ^w t5ture1 or t5t]       
7t5d]e1 to /ret*71 ! frame on :i* !     
embroidress di/5d$ h] canvas4 ,! ^w has 
gone out ( use1 b we /ill speak (       
t5t]-hooks4 ,! /it* is s]viceable en\gh 
9 its way1 b is discr$it$ by ! mon/r\s  
abuse ( x ref]r$ to already4 ,a picture 
9 t5t-/it* is ev5 m fooli% ?an a picture
 9 mosaic4 ,x _c come any:]e ne> to     
pictorial effect2 ! tess]ae w pron\nce  
!mselves1 & spoil x4  ,illu/ration3 #h4 
,,canvas-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3
 #i4 ,,cu%ion ,,& ,,sat9 ,,/it*es4      
,sid5ote3 ,,cross-,,/it* ,b4  ,?is k9d (
 half cross-/it* work$ on ! l>g] scale (
 ord9>y cross-/it* w\ld look meagre4 ,x 
is fill$ out1 !re=e 7,b71 by horizontal 
l9es ( ! ?read laid across ! canvas1 &  
ov] ^! ! /it* is work$4  ,sid5ote3      

,,cu%ion-,,/it* ,c4  ,cu%ion-/it*       
consi/s ( diagonal l9es ( upright       
/it*es1 measur+ 9 ! sampl] 7,c7 six     
?reads ( ! canvas1 s t aft] ea* /it* !  
ne$le may be br\ght out j ?ree ?reads   
l[] ?an :]e x 0 put 94 ,by work+ 9      
zigzag in/ead ( diagonal l9es1 a famili>
 patt]n is produc$1 m (t5 describ$ z    
,flor5t9e2 b ! /it* is 9 any case !     
same4  ,sid5ote3 ,,canvas-,,/it* ,d4  ,!
 /it* at ,d 7sometimes call$ ,moori%    
/it*7 is begun by work+ a r[ ( %ort     
v]tical /it*es1 slightly ap>t1 &        
complet$ by diagonal /it*es jo9+ !m4    
,unless ! silk employ$ is full & s(t1   
?is may n completely cov] ! canvas1 9   
:i* case ! diagonal /it*es mu/ fur!r be 
cross$ z %[n on ,illu/ration #hi4  ,if !
 l95 is loosely wov5 & ! ?read is       
tightly drawn 9 ! work+1 ! me% is pull$ 
ap>t1 giv+ ! effect ( an op5 lattice ( !
 k9d %[n at ,b1 on ,illu/ration #aj1 9  
:i* ! ?reads ( ! l95 are n drawn out b  
drawn toge!r4  ,sid5ote3 ,,canvas-,,/it*
 ,e4  ,! way ( work+ ! /it* at ,e is    

describ$ on page #ea1 "u ! "n (         
fi%-bone4 ,work$ on canvas x has some:at
 ! effect ( plait+1 & goes by ! "n (    
plait-/it*4 ,x is work$ 9 horizontal r[s
 alt]nately f left to "r & f "r to left4
  ,sid5ote3 ,,canvas-,,/it* ,f4  ,! /it*
 at ,f is a sort ( c\*+ 7see page #abd74
 ,diagonal l9es ( ?read are fir/ laid f 
edge to edge ( ! gr\nd space1 & ^! are  
sewn d[n by %ort ov]ca/+ /it*es 9 !     
cross direction4  ,admirable canvas /it*
 "w has be5 done ^u l95 9 silk ( "o     
col\r--r$1 gre51 or blue--& x 0 a common
 practice to "w ! backgr\nd leav+ !     
patt]n 9 ! b>e /uff4 ,x prevail$ 9      
c\ntries ly+ f> ap>t1 ?\gh probably n   
)\t int]-communication4 ,9 fact1 !      
influ5ce ( ,ori5tal "w ^u ,european has 
be5 s great t ev5 exp]ts hesitate       
sometimes to say :e!r a p>ticul> piece (
 "w is ,turki% or ,italian4 ,9 ,italian 
"w1 at lea/1 x 0 usual to get ov] !     
angul>ity ( silh\ette inh]5t 9 canvas   
/it*es by work+ an outl9e sep>ately4 ,:5
 t is ?91 ! effect is proportionately   

feeble4 ,! broad] outl9e 7%[n at ,a1    
,illu/ration #aj7 ju/ifies itself1 & 9 !
 case ( a /it* :i* falls into horizontal
 l9es1 x appe>s to be necess>y4 ,?is is 
plait /it*1 kn[n also by ! "n ( ,spani% 
/it*--n t x is 9 any way peculi> to     
,spa94 ,x is alli$ to h]r+-bone-/it*1 to
 :i* a special *apt] is devot$4         
,illu/ration3 #aj4 ,,plait ,,& ,,op5    
,,canvas ,,/it*es4  ,d>n+ is also       
employ$ z a canvas /it*4 ,!re is        
beautiful #af? c5tury ,italian "w 79    
col\r$ silks on d>k net ( ! v op5 squ>e 
me% ( ! p]iod71 :i* is mo/ effective1 & 
9 :i* !re is no pret5ce ( disguis+ !    
/epp$ outl9e2 & 9 ! v e>ly days (       
,*ri/ian art 9 ,egypt & ,byzantium1 l95 
0 d>n$ 9 little squ>e tufts ( wool up/&+
 on its surface1 :i* look s mu* l !     
tess]ae ( mosaic t x seems z if !y mu/ h
 be5 work$ 9 delib]ate imitation ( x4   
,aga91 9 ! #ae? c5tury sat9-/it* 0 work$
 on f9e l95 ) /rict reg>d to ! l9es (   
its web2 & ! ,p]sians1 anci5t & mod]n1  
embroid] :ite silk ^u l951 also 9       

sat9-/it*1 pres]v+ pi\sly ! rectangul> &
 diagonal l9es giv5 by ! mat]ial4 ,!y h 
_! rew>d 9 produc+ mo/ *>act]i/ic       
ne$lework4 ,! diap]$ gr\nd 9            
,illu/ration #i 7page #bj7 is sat9-/it* 
^u co>se l954  ,! fill+-9 patt]ns us$ to
 su* delicate & da9ty purpose 9 !       
m>vell\s "w on f9e cambric 7,illu/ration
 #gc7 :i* competes 9 effect ) lace1 ?\gh
 x is /rictly embroid]y1 all foll[ 9 _! 
design ! l9es ( ! fabric1 & are work$   
?read by ?read accord+ to its wo(3 !y   
af=d aga9 in/ances ( p]fect adaptation (
 /it* to mat]ial & ( design to /it*4    
,sat9 & o!r /it*es 7 work$ by ! old     
,italians 7,illu/ration #c7 on          
squ>e-me%$ canvas1 frankly on ! squ>e   
l9es giv5 by x1 = ! fill+ 9 ( ornam5tal 
details1 ?\gh ! outl9e might be mu* less
 =mal4 ,t is to say1 ! surface (        
freely-drawn leaves1 c41 in/ead ( be+   
work$ solid1 0 diap]$ ov] ) m or less   
op5 patt]n "w con/ruct$ on ! l9es ( !   
weav+4  ,a cunn+ use ( ! squ>e me% (    
canvas has sometimes be5 made to guide !

 work] ^u o!r fabrics1 su* z velvet4    
,?is 0 fir/ fac$ ) net3 ! design 0 !n   
work$1 ov] t1 on to & into ! velvet1 & !
 ?reads ( ! canvas 7 !n drawn out4 ,t is
 a device :i* may s]ve on occasion4 ,!  
design may ev5 be trac$ ^u ! net4       
,,crewel-,,/it*4   ,= "w 9 ! h&1        
,,crewel-,,/it* is p]haps1 on ! :ole1 ! 
easie/ & mo/ useful ( /it*es2 :5ce x    
comes t p sometimes vaguely call all    
embroid]y crewel "w2 ?\gh1 z a matt] (  
fact1 ! /it* prop]ly s call$ 0 nev] v   
commonly employ$1 ev5 :5 ! "w 0 done 9  
crewel1 ! d\ble ?read ( twi/$ wool f :i*
 x takes its "n4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!     
,,work+ ,,( ,a ,,on ,,crewel-,,/it*     
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #aa4           
,,crewel-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3
 #ab4 ,,crewel-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74
  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a4               
,,crewel-,,/it* prop] is %[n at ,a on ! 
sampl] opposite1 :]e x is us$ = l9e "w4 
,x is work$ z foll[s3--,hav+ made a />t 
9 ! usual way1 keep y\r ?read d[nw>ds "u
 y\r left ?umb & bel[ y\r ne$le--t is1  

to ! "r2 !n take up ) ! ne$le1 say      
#a_/h? ( an in* ( ! /uff1 & br+ x out   
?r\gh ! hole made 9 />t+ ! /it*1 tak+   
c>e n to pi]ce ! ?read4 ,?is gives !    
fir/ half /it*4 ,if y proce$ 9 ! same   
way y\r next /it* w be full l5g?4 ,! te/
 ( good workman%ip is t at ! back x %\ld
 look l back-/it* 7,illu/ration #ab71   
describ$ on page #cj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!
 ,,work+ ,,( ,b ,,on ,,crewel-,,/it*    
,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b4      
,,outl9e-,,/it* 7,b on sampl]7 diff]s f 
crewel-/it* only 9 t ! ?read is always  
kept upw>ds above ! ne$le1 t is to !    
left4 ,9 s do+ ! ?read is apt to untwi/ 
itself1 & wants con/antly re-twi/+4 ,!  
/it* is useful = s+le l9es & = outl9+   
solid "w4 ,! muddl$ effect ( mu* crewel 
"w is due to ! confusion ( ?is /it* )   
crewel-/it* prop]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w 
,c4  ,,?ick ,,crewel-,,/it* 7,c on      
sampl]7 is only a little wid] ?an ord9>y
 crewel-/it*1 b gives a heavi] l9e1 9   
high] relief4 ,9 effect x resembles     
rope-/it*1 b x is m simply work$4 ,y    

beg9 z 9 ord9>y crewel-/it*1 b aft] !   
fir/ half-/it* y take up #a_/h? ( an in*
 ( ! mat]ial 9 advance ( ! la/ /it*1 &  
br+ out y\r ne$le at ! po9t :]e ! fir/  
half-/it* began4 ,y proce$1 always putt+
 y\r ne$le 9 #a_/h? ( an in* 9 front (1 
& br++ x out #a_/h? ( an in* beh9d1 !   
la/ /it*1 s z to h always #a_/d? ( an   
in* ( ! /uff on y\r ne$le4              
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,g ,,on   
,,crewel-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3    
,,to ,,"w ,d4  ,,?ick ,,outl9e-,,/it*   
7,d on sampl]7 is l ?ick crewel-/it* ) !
 exception t1 z 9 ord9>y outl9e-/it*    
7,b71 y keep y\r ?read always above !   
ne$le to ! left4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w   
,e4  ,9 ,,back-,,/it* 7,e71 in/ead (    
fir/ br++ ! ne$le out at ! po9t :]e !   
embroid]y is to beg91 y br+ x out #a_/h?
 ( an in* 9 advance ( x4 ,!n1 putt+ y\r 
ne$le back1 y take up ?is #a_/h? toge!r 
) ano!r #a_/h? 9 advance4 ,= ! next /it*
 y put y\r ne$le into ! hole made by !  
la/ /it*1 & s on1 tak+ c>e n to split ! 
la/ ?read 9 s do+4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w 

,f4  ,to "w ! ,,spots 7,f7 on           
sampl]--hav+ made a back-/it*1 br+ y\r  
ne$le out ?r\gh ! same hole z be=e1 &   
make ano!r back-/it* above x1 s t y h1 9
 :at appe>s to be "o /it*1 two          
?icknesses ( ?read2 !n br+ y\r ne$le out
 "s di/ance 9 advance ( ! la/ /it*1 &   
proce$ z be=e4 ,! di/ance betwe5 !      
/it*es is det]m9$ by ! effect y desire  
to produce4 ,! ?read %\ld n be drawn too
 tight4  ,illu/ration3 #ac4 ,,crewel    
,,"w ,,& ,,crewel-,,/it*4  ,sid5ote3    
,,to ,,"w ,g4  ,y beg9 ,,/em-,,/it* 7,g7
 ) ! usual half-/it*4 ,!n1 hold+ ! ?read
 d[nw>ds1 in/ead ( proce$+ z 9          
crewel-/it* 7,a7 y slant y\r ne$le s z  
to br+ x out a ?read or two high] up ?an
 ! half-/it*1 b precisely above x4 ,y   
next put ! ne$le 9 #a_/h? ( an in* 9    
advance ( ! la/ /it*1 &1 z be=e1 br+ x  
out aga9 9 a slant+ direction a ?read or
 two high]4 ,at ! back ( ! "w           
7,illu/ration #ab7 ! /it*es lie 9 a     
slant+ direction4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w  
,h4  ,to "w wid] ,,/em-,,/it* 7,h74     

,aft] ! fir/ two /it*es1 br+ y\r ne$le  
out precisely above & 9 a l9e ) !m1 &   
put x 9 aga9 #a_/h? ( an in* 9 advance (
 ! la/ /it*1 produc+ a long] /roke1 :i* 
gives ! measure ( ^? foll[+4 ,! slant+  
/it*es at ! back 7,illu/ration #ab7 are 
only two-?irds ( ! l5g? ( ^? on ! face4 
,,crewel ,,& ,,outl9e ,,/it*es work$    
7,j7 side by side give some:at ! effect 
( a braid4 ,! importance ( n confus+ !m1
 already ref]r$ to1 is "h app>5t4       
,,crewel-,,/it* is work$ ,,solid 9 !    
he>t-%ape 9 ! c5tre ( ! sampl]4 ,on !   
left side ! r[s ( /it*+ foll[ ! outl9e (
 ! he>t2 on ! "r !y are m upright1 m]ely
 con=m+ a little to ! %ape to be fill$4 
,?is is ! bett] me?od4  ,illu/ration3   
#ad4 ,,crewel ,,"w ,,9 ,,v>i\s ,,/it*es4
  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,,solid           
,,crewel-,,/it*4  ,! way to "w solid    
crewel-/it* w be be/ expla9$ by an      
in/ance4 ,suppose a leaf to be work$4 ,y
 beg9 by outl9+ x2 if x is a wide leaf1 
y fur!r "w a c5tre l9e :]e ! ma9 rib    
w\ld be1 & !n "w r[ )9 r[ ( /it*es until

 ! space is fill$4 ,if on arriv+ at !   
po9t ( y\r leaf1 in/ead ( go+ r\nd !    
edge1 y "w back by ! side ( ! fir/ r[ ( 
/it*+1 !re results a /reak9ess (        
texture1 app>5t 9 ! /em on ,illu/ration 
#ac4 ,:at y get is1 9 effect1 a         
comb9ation ( crewel & outl9e /it*es1 z  
at ,j1 :i* 9 ! o!r case only occurs 9 ! 
c5tre ( ! %ape :]e ! files ( /it*es     
meet4  ,to repres5t %ad+ 9 crewel-/it*1 
to :i* x is admirably suit$ 7,a1        
,illu/ration #da71 x is well to "w f !  
d>ke/ %ad[s to ! highe/ lights4 ,& x is 
exp$i5t to map out on ! /uff ! outl9e ( 
! space to be cov]$ by ea* %ade ( ?read4
 ,!re is no difficulty !n 9 work+ r\nd t
 %ape1 z above expla9$4  ,9 solid crewel
 ! /it*es %\ld q cov] ! gr\nd )\t press+
 too closely "o aga9/ ! o!r4            
,illu/ration3 #ae4 ,,crewel-,,/it* ,,9  
,,twi/$ ,,silk4  ,x does n seem t       
,engli%wom5 ( ! #ag? c5tury 7 ev] v     
fai?ful to ! /it* we "k by ! "n (       
crewel4 ,old examples ( "w done entirely
 9 crewel-/it*1 z di/+ui%$ f :at is     

call$ crewel "w1 are seldom if ev] to be
 met )4 ,! /it* occurs 9 mo/ ( ! old    
,engli% embroid]y 9 wool2 b x is        
a/oni%+1 :5 "o comes to exam9e ! quilts 
& curta9s ( a c\ple ( hundr$ ye>s or s  
ago1 h[ v little ( ! woolwork on !m is 9
 crewel-/it*4 ,! detail on ,illu/ration 
#ac 0 *os5 because x conta9$ m ( x ?an  
any o!r equal portion ( a h&some &      
typical ,engli% hang+2 b x is only 9 !  
ma9 /em1 & 9 "s ( ! outl9es1 t ! /it* is
 us$4 ,& t appe>s to h be5 ! prevail+   
practice--to use crewel-/it* = /ems &   
outl9es1 & = little else b ! v simple/  
=ms4 ,! fill+ 9 ( ! leafage1 ! diap]+ )9
 ! leaf %apes1 & ! small] & m elaborate 
details g5]ally 7 done 9                
long-&-%ort-/it*1 or :atev] came h&ie/4 
,9 fact1 ! ?+ to be repres5t$1 fruit1   
b]ry1 fl[]1 or :at n1 seems to h sugge/$
 ! /it*1 :i* x mu/ be confess$ 0        
sometimes only a sort ( scramble to get 
an effect4  ,( c\rse ! arti/ always     
*ooses h] /it*1 & %e is free to alt] x z
 occasion may dem&2 b a good workwoman  

7& ! embroidress is a ne$lewoman fir/ & 
an arti/ aft]w>ds1 p]haps7 adopts 9 e   
case a me?od1 & dep>ts f x only = v good
 reason4 ,x looks z if our ance/ors _h  
set to "w )\t sy/em or guid+ pr9ciple at
 all4 ,no d\bt !y got a bold & /rik+    
effect 9 _! b$-hang+s & ! l2 b !re is 9 
_! "w a lack ( t consci\s aim :i* goes  
to make art4 ,!irs is art ( ! r artless 
sort :i* is j n[ s popul>4 ,happily x 0 
kept 9 ! way x %\ld g by a /rict adh]5ce
 to traditional patt]n1 :i* = ! "t be+  
seems to h gone completely out ( fa%ion4
  ,q 9 ! traditional mann] is           
,illu/ration #ad4 ,"o w\ld fancy at fir/
 sight t ! "w 0 almo/ entirely 9        
crewel-/it*4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !re is  
little :i* answ]s to ! "n1 z an         
exam9ation ( ! back ( ! "w %[s pla9ly   
en\gh4 ,:at ! /it*es are x is n easy to 
say4 ,! my/]y ( _m a /it* is to be      
unravell$ only by lit]ally pick+ out !  
?reads1 :i* "o is n always at lib]ty to 
d1 al?\gh1 9 ! ard\r ( rese>*1 a ke5    
embroidress w d x--n )\t remorse 9 !    

case ( beautiful "w1 b rel5tlessly all !
 same4  ,! only piece ( embroid]y       
entirely 9 crewel-/it* :i* ,i c\ld f9d =
 illu/ration 7#ae7 is work$1 z x happ5s1
 9 silk2 nor 0 ! work] aw>e t 9 s work+ 
%e 0 do+ any?+ out ( ! common4 ,ano!r   
in/ance ( crewel-/it* is giv5 9 ! divid$
 skirt1 let u call x1 ( ! p]sonage 9    
,illu/ration #gb4  ,beautiful back-/it*+
 occurs 9 ! ,italian "w on ,illu/ration 
#hi1 & ! /it* is us$ = sew+ d[n !       
applique 9 ,illu/ration #id4            
,,*a9-,,/it*4   ,illu/ration3 #af4      
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,& ,,knots4  ,,*a9 &      
,,tamb\r ,,/it* are 9 effect practically
 ! same1 & pres5t ! same r granul>      
surface4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 !m is t     
*a9-/it* is done 9 ! h& ) an ord9>y     
ne$le1 & tamb\r-/it* 9 a frame ) a hook 
%>p] at ! turn+ po9t ?an an ord9>y      
cro*et hook4 ,"o takes x r = grant$ t "w
 :i* 0 presumably done 9 ! h& 7a l>ge   
quilt1 = example7 is *a9-/it*1 & t :at  
seems to h be5 done 9 a frame is tamb\r 
"w1 ?\gh x is possible1 b n advisable ( 

c\rse1 to "w *a9-/it* 9 a frame4        
,*a9-/it* is n to be conf\nd$ )         
split-/it* 7see page #aje71 :i* some:at 
resembles x4  ,illu/ration3 #ag4        
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3   
#ah4 ,,*a9-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74    
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a4  ,to "w *a9-/it*
 7,a on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #ag7 br+ 
! ne$le out1 hold ! ?read d[n ) ! left  
?umb1 put ! ne$le 9 aga9 at ! hole ?r\gh
 :i* y br\ght x out1 take up #a_/d ( an 
in* ( /uff1 & draw ! ?read ?r\gh3 t     
gives y ! fir/ l9k ( ! *a94 ,! back ( ! 
"w 7#ah7 looks l back-/it*4 ,9 fact1 9 !
 quilt$ cov]let1 ,illu/ration #fi 7z 9  
mu* simil> "w ( ! p]iod71 ! outl9e      
patt]n1 :i* y might take = back-/it*+1  
proves to h be5 work$ f ! back 9        
*a9-/it*4 ,! same ?+ occurs 9 ! case ( !
 ,p]sian quilt 9 ,illu/ration #gj4      
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b4  ,a playful     
v>iation ^u *a9-/it* 7,b on ! sampl]1   
,illu/ration #ag7 is effect$ by ! use ( 
two ?reads ( diff]5t col\r4 ,take 9 y\r 
ne$le a d>k & a light ?read1 say ! d>k  

"o to ! left1 & br+ !m out at ! po9t at 
:i* y\r "w beg9s4 ,hold ! d>k ?read "u  
y\r ?umb1 &1 keep+ ! light "o to ! "r1  
well out ( ! way1 draw bo? ?reads ?r\gh2
 ?is makes a d>k l9k2 ! light ?read     
disappe>s1 & comes out aga9 to ! left ( 
! d>k "o1 ready to be held "u ! ?umb    
:ile y make a light l9k4 ,?is magic     
/it*1 z x has be5 call$1 is no new      
inv5tion4 ,x is to be f\nd 9 ,p]sian1   
,indian1 & ,italian ,r5aissance "w4 ,an 
in/ance ( x occurs 9 ,illu/ration #fd4  
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,c4  ,a v>iety (    
*a9-/it* 7,c on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration  
#ag7 us$ (t5 9 *ur* "w1 m solid 9       
appe>ance1 ! l9ks n be+ s op51 is r     
diff]5tly done4 ,beg9 a little 9 advance
 ( ! />t+ po9t ( y\r "w1 hold ! ?read "u
 y\r ?umb1 put ! ne$le 9 aga9 at ! />t+ 
po9t slightly to ! left1 br+ y\r ne$le  
out ab\t #a_/h? ( an in* bel[ :]e x fir/
 w5t 9 b precisely on ! same l9e1 & y h 
! fir/ l9k ( y\r *a94  ,sid5ote3 ,,to   
,,"w ,d4  ,to "w :at is kn[n z cable-*a9
 7,d on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #ag7 keep

 y\r ?read to ! "r1 put 9 y\r ne$le1    
po9t+ d[nw>ds1 a little bel[ ! />t+     
po9t1 & br+ x out ab\t #a_/d? ( an in*  
bel[ :]e y put x 92 !n put x ?r\gh !    
little /it* j =m$1 f "r to left1 hold   
y\r ?read t[>ds ! left "u y\r ?umb1 put 
y\r ne$le ?r\gh ! /it* n[ 9 process (   
mak+ f "r to left1 draw up ! ?read1 & ! 
fir/ two l9ks ( y\r *a9 are made4       
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,e4  ,a zigzag *a91 
( a r fancy description1 goes by ! "n ( 
,v&yke *a9 7,e on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration
 #ag74 ,to make x1 br+ y\r ne$le out at 
a po9t :i* is to be ! left edge ( y\r   
"w1 & make a slant+ *a9-/it* f left to  
"r2 !n1 putt+ y\r ne$le into t1 make    
ano!r slant+ /it*1 ?is "t f "r to       
left--& s to & fro to ! end4  ,sid5ote3 
,,to ,,"w ,f4  ,! braid-/it* %[n at ,f  
on ! sampl] 7,illu/ration #ag7 is work$ 
z foll[s1 horizontally f "r to left4    
,br+ y\r ne$le out at a po9t :i* is to  
be ! l[] edge ( y\r "w1 ?r[ y\r ?read   
r\nd to ! left1 &1 keep+ x all ! "t     
loosely "u y\r ?umb1 put y\r ne$le "u ! 

?read & twi/ x once r\nd to ! "r4 ,!n1  
at ! upp] edge ( y\r "w1 put 9 ! ne$le &
 slide ! ?read t[>ds ! "r1 br+ ! ne$le  
out exactly bel[ :]e y put x 91 c>ry y\r
 ?read "u ! ne$le t[>ds ! left1 draw !  
?read tight1 & y\r fir/ /it* is done4   
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,f ,,on   
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to  
,,"w ,g4  ,a yet m fanciful v>iety (    
braid-/it* 7,g on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration
 #ag7 is work$ v]tically1 d[nw>ds4      
,hav+1 z be=e1 put y\r ne$le "u ! ?read 
& twi/$ x once r\nd1 put x 9 at a po9t  
:i* is to be ! left edge ( y\r "w1 &1   
in/ead ( br++ x out imm$iately bel[ t   
po9t1 slant x to ! "r1 br++ x out on t  
edge ( ! "w1 & f9i% y\r /it* z 9 ! case 
( ,f4  ,^! braid-/it*es look be/ work$ 9
 /\t ?read ( close texture4  ,9 cov]+ a 
surface ) *a9-/it* 7ne$lework or tamb\r7
 ! usual plan is to foll[ ! cont\r ( !  
design1 work+ *a9 )9 *a9 until ! leaf or
 :atev] x may be is fill$ 94 ,?is /it*  
is r>ely work$ 9 l9es across ! =ms1 b x 
has be5 effectively us$ 9 t way1 foll[+ 

always ! l9es ( ! w>p & weft ( ! /uff4  
,ev5 9 t case ! successive l9es ( /it*+ 
%\ld be all 9 "o direction--n runn+     
backw>ds & =w>ds--or x w result 9 a sort
 ( patt]n ( braid$ l9es4 ,! reason = ! m
 usual practice ( foll[+ ! outl9e ( !   
design is obvi\s4 ,! /it* l5ds itself to
 sweep+1 ev5 to p]fectly spiral1        
l9es--su* z occur 9 ,greek wave patt]ns3
 x 01 9 fact1 made use ( 9 t way by !   
,greeks "s f\r or five c5turies ,b4,c4  
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,g ,,on   
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,sampl]4   ,illu/ration3  
#ai4 ,,*a9 ,,& ,,surface ,,/it*es4  ,we 
owe ! tamb\r frame1 !y say1 to ,*9a2 b x
 has be5 l>gely us$1 & abus$ inde$1 9   
,engl&4 ,tamb\r "w1 :5 once y h ! trick 
( x1 is v quickly done--9 ab\t "o-six? (
 ! "t x w\ld take to d x ) ! ne$le4 ,x  
has ! fur!r advantage t x s]ves equally 
well = embroid]y on a light or on a     
heavy /uff1 & t x is mo/ la/+4 ,!       
mis=tune is t ! sew+ ma*9e has le>nt to 
d some?+ at once s l x & s me*anically  
ev51 z to discr$it g5u9e h&-"w1 :e!r    

tamb\r "w or *a9-/it*4 ,= all t1 nei!r  
is to be despis$4 ,if !y h (t5 a        
me*anical appe>ance t is n all ! fault (
 ! /it*3 ! work] is to blame4 ,indian   
embroid]]s dep>t sometimes s f> f       
me*anical precision z to %ock ! admir]s 
( monoton\sly ev5 "w4 ,arti/ic use ( *a9
 /it* is made 9 _m ( our illu/rations3 =
 outl9es 9 ,illu/rations #bd & #gb2 =   
surface cov]+ 9 ,mr4 ,crane's lion1     
,illu/ration #gd2 to repres5t l&scape 9 
,illu/ration #gh1 :]e ev]y?+ except !   
faces ( ! little m5 is 9 *a9-/it*2 &    
aga9 = figure "w 9 ,illu/ration #ha4 ,9 
,illu/ration #ai x occurs 9 association 
) a curi\s surface /it*2 9 ,illu/ration 
#fd x is us$ to outl9e & o!rwise        
supplem5t inlay4 ,! old ,italians did n 
disda9 to use x4 ,9 fact1 :]ev] arti/s h
 employ$ x1 !y %[ t !re is no?+ inh]5tly
 in>ti/ic ab\t ! /it*4     ,,h]r+-,,bone
 ,,/it*4   ,,h]r+-,,bone is ! "n by :i* 
x is cu/om>y to di/+ui% a v>iety (      
/it*es some:at resembl+ ! sp9e ( a fi%  
su* z ! h]r+4 ,x w\ld be simpl] to      

describe !m z fi%-bone2 b t t]m has be5 
appropriat$ to describe a p>ticul>      
v>iety ( x4 ,"o w\ld h ?\ght x m        
conv5i5t to use fi% = ! g5]ic t]m1 & a  
p>ticul> fi% = ! specific4 ,h[ev]1 x    
saves confusion to use names z f> z     
possible 9 _! accept$ s5se4  ,x w be se5
 f ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #bj1 t ?is    
/it* may be work$ op5 or tol]ably close2
 b 9 ! latt] case x loses some?+ ( its  
di/9ctive "*4 ,f9e l9es may be work$ 9  
x1 b x appe>s mo/ suit$ to ! work+ (    
broadi% b&s & o!r m or less ev5-sid$ or1
 x may be1 tap]+ =ms1 m fea!ry 9 effect 
?an fi%-bone-l1 su* z are %[n at ,e on  
sampl]4  ,ord9>y h]r+-bone is su* a     
famili> /it* t ! necessity ( describ+ x 
is r a matt] ( lit]>y consi/5cy ?an (   
practical importance4  ,! two simpl] =ms
 ( h]r+-bone 7x is always work$ f left  
to "r1 & begun ) a half-/it*7 m>k$ ,a & 
,c on ! sampl] are /rik+ly diff]5t 9    
appe>ance1 & are work$ 9 diff]5t ways--z
 w be se5 at once by ref]5ce to ! back (
 ! sampl] 7,illu/ration #ba71 :]e !     

/it*es take 9 ! "o case a horizontal & 9
 ! o!r a v]tical direction4  ,sid5ote3  
,,to ,,"w ,a4  ,to "w ,a1 br+ y\r ne$le 
out ab\t ! c5tre ( ! l9e to be work$2   
put x into ! l[] edge ( ! l9e ab\t      
#a_/h? ( an in* fur!r on2 take up ?is   
mu* ( ! /uff1 &1 keep+ ! ?read to ! "r1 
above ! ne$le1 draw x ?r\gh4 ,!n1 ) !   
?read bel[ x1 to ! "r1 put y\r ne$le    
into ! upp] edge ( ! l9e #a_/d? ( an in*
 fur!r on1 &1 turn+ x backw>ds1 take up 
aga9 #a_/h? ( an in* ( /uff1 br++ x out 
imm$iately above :]e x w5t 9 on ! l[]   
edge4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b4  ,:at is 
call$ ,indian ,h]r+-bone 7,b7 is m]ely  
/it* ,a work$ 9 long] & m slant+ /it*es1
 s t !re is room betwe5 !m = a second r[
 9 ano!r col\r1 ! two col\rs be+1 (     
c\rse1 prop]ly int]lac$4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to
 ,,"w ,c4  ,to "w ,c1 br+ y\r ne$le out 
z = ,a1 &1 putt+ x 9 at ! upp] edge ( ! 
l9e to be work$ & po9t+ x d[nw>ds1 :il/ 
y\r ?read lies to ! "r1 take up ev] s   
small a piece ( ! /uff4 ,!n1 slightly 9 
advance ( ! la/ /it*1 ! ?read /ill to ! 

"r1 y\r ne$le n[ po9t+ upw>ds1 take     
ano!r simil> /it* f ! l[] edge4         
,illu/ration3 #bj4 ,,h]r+-,,bone        
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #ba4           
,,h]r+-,,bone ,,sampl] 7,,back74        
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,d4  ,! v>iety at ,d
 is m]ely a comb9ation ( ,a & ,c1 z may 
be se5 by ref]5ce to ! back ( ! sampl]  
7opposite72 ?\gh ! %ort horizontal      
/it*es !re se5 meet1 in/ead ( be+ wide  
ap>t z 9 ! case ( ,a4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!
 ,,work+ ,,( ,e ,,on ,,h]r+-,,bone      
,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,e4  ,:at
 is kn[n z fi%-bone is illu/rat$ 9 !    
?ree fea!ry %apes on ! sampl] 7,e71 two 
( :i* are work$ r op54 ,x is *>act]i/ic 
( ?is /it* t x has a sort ( sp9e up !   
c5tre :]e ! ?reads cross4 ,suppose !    
/it* to be work$ horizontally4 ,br+ y\r 
ne$le out on ! "u edge ( ! sp9e ab\t    
#a_/d? ( an in* f ! />t+ po9t ( ! "w1 & 
put x 9 on ! upp] edge ( ! "w at ! />t+ 
po9t1 br++ x out imm$iately bel[ t on ! 
l[] edge ( ! "w4 ,put x 9 aga9 on ! upp]
 edge ( ! sp9e1 r 9 advance ( :]e x came

 out on ! l[] edge ( x be=e1 & br+ x out
 on ! l[] edge ( ?is sp9e imm$iately    
bel[ :]e x ent]$4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!    
,,work+ ,,( ,f ,,on ,,h]r+-,,bone       
,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,f4  ,9  
close h]r+-bone 7,f on ! sampl]1        
,illu/ration #bj7 y h always a long /it*
 f left to "r1 cross$ by a %ort] /it*   
:i* goes f "r to left4 ,hav+ made a half
 /it*1 br+ ! ne$le out at ! beg9n+ ( !  
l9e to be work$1 at ! l[] edge1 & put x 
9 #a_/h? ( an in* f ! beg9n+ ( ! upp]   
edge4 ,br+ x out aga9 at ! beg9n+ ( ?is 
edge & put x 9 at ! l[] edge #a_/d? ( an
 in* f ! beg9n+1 br++ x out on ! same   
edge #a_/h? ( an in* f ! beg9n+4 ,put ! 
ne$le 9 aga9 on ! upp] edge #a_/h? ( an 
in* 9 front ( ! la/ /it* on t edge1 &   
br+ x out aga91 )\t splitt+ ! ?read1 on 
! same edge z ! hole :]e ! la/ /it* w5t 
94  ,if y wi% to cov] a surface )       
h]r+-bone-/it*1 y "w x1 ( c\rse1 close1 
s t ea* successive /it* t\*es its =ego] 
at ! po9t :]e ! ne$le ent]s ! /uff 7,f  
on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #bj74 ,x w be 

se5 t at ! back 7#ba7 ?is looks l a     
d\ble r[ ( back-/it*+4 ,work$ /raight   
across a wide leaf1 z 9 ! l[] half (    
sampl]1 x is naturally v loose4 ,a bett]
 me?od ( work+ is %[n 9 ! side leaves1  
:i* are work$ 9 two halves1 beg9n+ at ! 
base ( a leaf on "o side & work+ d[n to 
x on ! o!r4 ,!re is "h j ! sugge/ion ( a
 mid-rib betwe5 ! two r[s4              
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,g ,,on   
,,h]r+-,,bone ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to 
,,"w ,g4  ,! /it* at ,g on sampl]1 hav+ 
! effect ( high] relief ?an ord9>y close
 h]r+-bone 7,f71 is sometimes mislead+ly
 describ$ z tape/ry /it*4 ,x is work$1 z
 ! back ( ! sampl] 7#ba7 cle>ly %[s1 9 q
 a diff]5t way4 ,y get !re p>allel r[s (
 d\ble /it*es4 ,hav+ made a half-/it*   
ent]+ ! mat]ial at ! upp] edge ( ! "w1  
br+ ! ne$le out on ! l[] edge ( x       
imm$iately opposite4 ,!n1 go+ back1 put 
x 9 at ! beg9n+ ( ! upp] edge1 & br+ x  
out at ! beg9n+ ( ! l[] "o4 ,!nce take a
 long slant+ /it* upw>ds f left to "r1  
br+ ! ne$le out on ! l[] edge imm$iately

 opposite1 cross x by a r %ort] /it* f  
"r to left1 ent]+ ! /uff at ! po9t :]e !
 fir/ half-/it* end$1 br+ ?is out on !  
l[] edge1 opposite1 & ! /it* is done4   
,! arti/ic use ( h]r+-bone-/it* is %[n 9
 ! leaves ( ! tulip 7#hd71 & a clos]    
v>iety ( x 9 ! p9k1 or :atev] ! fl[] may
 be1 9 ! h& ( ! little figure on        
,illu/ration #gb4                       
,,buttonhole-,,/it*4   ,,buttonhole is m
 useful 9 ornam5t ?an "o might expect a 
/it* ) su* a v utilit>ian "n to be4 ,x  
is1 z its common use w\ld lead "o to    
suppose1 pre-em95tly a "o-edg$ /it*1 a  
/it* ) :i* to m>k emphatically ! outside
 edge ( a =m4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a two-edg$
 v>iety kn[n z ladd]-/it*1 %[n 9 ! two  
horn %apes on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration    
#bb4  ,by ! use ( two r[s back to back1 
leaf =ms may be fairly express$4 ,9 !   
leaves on ! sampl]1 ! edge ( ! /it* is  
us$ to emphasise ! mid rib1 leav+ a     
s]rat$ edge to ! leaves4 ,! "* ( ! /it* 
w\ld h be5 bett] pres]v$ by work+ ! o!r 
way ab\t1 & m>k+ ! edge ( ! leaves by a 

cle>-cut l9e1 z 9 ! case ( ! solid      
leaves 9 ,illu/ration #gc4  ,! /it* may 
be us$ = cov]+ a gr\nd or o!r broad     
surface1 z 9 ! pot %ape 7,j7 on !       
sampl]1 :]e ! diap] patt]n produc$ by   
its means expla9s itself ! bett] = be+  
work$ 9 two %ades ( col\r4  ,! simpl]   
=ms ( ! /it* are ! m useful4 ,work$ 9 ! 
=m ( a :eel1 z 9 ! rosettes at ! side ( 
! vase %ape 7,a71 ! ornam5tal use ( !   
/it* is obvi\s4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a4
  ,"o ne$ h>dly describe ,,buttonhole   
,,/it*4 ,! simple =m ( x 7,a7 is work$  
by 7:5 y h br\ght y\r ne$le out7 keep+ !
 ?read "u y\r ?umb to ! "r1 :il/ y put !
 ne$le 9 aga9 at a high] po9t slightly  
to ! "r1 & br+ x out imm$iately bel[1   
close to :]e x came out be=e4 ,?is & o!r
 "o-edg$ /it*es ( ! k9d are sometimes   
call$ blanket-/it*4  ,! only diff]5ce   
betwe5 v]sions su* z ,b & ,c on !       
sampl]1 & simple buttonhole1 is t !     
/it*es v>y 9 l5g? accord+ to ! work]'s  
fancy4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,e4  ,!     
,,cross$ ,,buttonhole ,,/it* at ,e is   

work$ by fir/ mak+ a /it* slop+ to ! "r1
 & !n a small] buttonhole-/it* across   
?is f ! left4  ,! bord] m>k$ ,d 9 sampl]
 consi/s m]ely ( two r[s ( slant+       
buttonhole-/it* work$ "o into ! o!r4    
,ne$lewom5 h wilful ways ( mak+ :at %\ld
 be upright /it*es slant awkw>dly 9 all 
mann] ( ways1 ) ! result t !y look z if 
!y _h be5 pull$ out ( ! /raight4        
,illu/ration3 #bb4 ,,buttonhole         
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #bc4           
,,buttonhole ,,sampl] 7,,back74         
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,f4  ,! bord] at ,f1
 kn[n z ,,tailor',s ,,buttonhole1 is    
work$ ) ! firm edge f y1 in/ead ( t[>ds 
y1 z y "w ord9>y buttonhole4 ,br++ !    
?read out at ! upp] edge ( ! "w to !    
left1 & lett+ x lie on t side1 y put y\r
 ne$le 9 aga9 /ill on ! same edge1 & br+
 x out1 imm$iately bel[1 on ! l[] "o4 ,y
 !n1 be=e draw+ ! ?read q ?r\gh1 put y\r
 ne$le into ! loop f beh9d1 & tight5 x  
upw>ds4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,(  
,h ,,on ,,buttonhole ,,sampl]4          
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,g4  ,9 ord] to make

 y\r ladd]-/it* 7,g7 squ>e at ! end1 y  
beg9 by mak+ a b> ( ! wid? ! /it* is to 
be4 ,!n1 hold+ ! ?read "u y\r ?umb to ! 
"r1 y put ! ne$le 9 at ! top ( ! b> &1  
slant+ x t[>ds ! "r1 br+ x out on a     
level ) ! o!r end ( ! b> some:at to !   
"r4 ,?is makes a triangle4 ,) ! po9t (  
y\r ne$le1 pull ! slant+ ?read out at ! 
top1 to =m a squ>e2 ins]t ! ne$le2 slant
 x aga9 to ! "r2 draw x out z be=e1 & y 
h y\r second triangle4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to  
,,"w ,h4  ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ! work+ ( !
 lattice-l b& at ,h1 & ladd]-/it* ,g1 is
 t1 hav+ complet$ y\r fir/ triangle1 y  
make1 by buttonhol+ a /it*1 a second    
triangle po9t+ ! o!r way1 :i* completes 
a rectangul> %ape4  ,illu/ration3 #bd4  
,,buttonhole1 ,,*a91 ,,& ,,knot         
,,/it*es4  ,9 ! solid "w %[n at ,j1 y   
make five buttonhole-/it*es1 ga!r+ !m to
 a po9t at ! base1 !n ano!r five1 & s   
on4 ,repeat ! process1 ?is "t po9t      
upw>ds1 & y h ! fir/ b& ( ! pot %ape4   
,*>act]i/ic & mo/ beautiful use is made 
( buttonhole /it* 9 ! piece ( ,indian "w

 9 ,illu/ration #bd1 :]e x is outl9$ )  
*a9 /it*1 :i* goes mo/ p]fectly ) x4    
,cut "w1 su* z t on ,illu/ration #fe1 is
 /r5g!n$ by outl9+ x 9 buttonhole-/it*4 
,ladd]-/it* occurs 9 ! cusp$ %apes fram+
 c]ta9 fl[]s 9 ,illu/ration #gb1        
embroid]$ all 9 blue silk on l954 ,x is 
n infrequ5t 9 ,ori5tal "w1 &1 9 fact1   
goes sometimes by ! "n ( ,cretan-/it* on
 t acc\nt4     ,,fea!r ,,& ,,ori5tal    
,,/it*es4   ,,fea!r-,,/it* is simply    
buttonhol+ 9 a slant+ direction1 fir/ to
 ! "r side & !n to ! left1 keep+ ! ne$le
 /rokes 9 ! c5tre clos] toge!r or f>!r  
ap>t accord+ to ! effect to be produc$4 
,x owes its "n1 ( c\rse1 to ! m or less 
fea!ry effect result+ f its r op5 "*4 ,l
 buttonhole1 x may be work$ solid1 z 9 !
 leaf & petal =ms on ! sampl]1          
,illu/ration #be1 b x is bett] suit$ to 
cov] n>r[ ?an broad surfaces4 ,! jagg$  
outl9e :i* x gives makes x useful 9     
embroid]+ plumage1 b x is n to be       
conf\nd$ ) :at is call$ plumage-/it*1   
:i* is n fea!r-/it* at all1 b a v]sion (

 sat9-/it*4  ,! fea!ry /em 7,a7 on !    
sampl] is simply a buttonhol+ work$     
alt]nately f "r to left & left to "r4   
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b4  ,! bord] l9e at
 ,b requires r m explanation4 ,presume x
 to be work$ v]tically4 ,br+ y\r ne$le  
out at ! left edge ( ! b&2 put x 9 at ! 
"r edge imm$iately opposite1 keep+ y\r  
?read "u ! ne$le to ! "r2 br+ x out aga9
 /ill on ! "r edge a little l[] d[n1 &  
!n1 keep+ y\r ?read to ! left1 put !    
ne$le 9 on ! left edge1 opposite to :]e 
y la/ br\ght x out1 & br+ x out aga9 on 
! same edge a little l[] d[n4           
,illu/ration3 #be4 ,,fea!r-,,/it*       
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #bf4           
,,fea!r-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74  ,!   
bord] at ,c is m]ely an elaboration ( ! 
above1 ) ?ree slant+ /it*es on ea* edge 
in/ead ( a s+le "o 9 ! direction ( ! b&4
  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,g ,g   
,,on ,,fea!r-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,b&s ,d1 
,e1 ,f1 ,g1 are v>iations ( ord9>y      
fea!r-/it*1 requir+ no fur!r explanation
 ?an ! back view ( ! "w 7#bf7 af=ds4 ,on

 ! face ( ! sampl] x w be notic$ t l9es 
h be5 drawn = ! guidance ( ! work]4 ,^! 
are always f\r 9 numb]1 indicat+ at     
once1 t ! /it* is made ) f\r /rokes ( ! 
ne$le1 & ! po9ts at :i* x is put 9 & out
 ( ! /uff4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,g ,g4  
,9 work+ ,g ,g1 suppose f\r guid+ l9es  
to h be5 drawn z above--numb]$1 #a1 #b1 
#c1 #d1 f left to "r4 ,br+ y\r ne$le out
 at ! top ( l9e #a4 ,make a *a9-/it*    
slant+ d[nw>ds f l9e #a to l9e #b4 ,put 
y\r ne$le into l9e #c ab\t #a_/h? ( an  
in* l[] d[n1 &1 slant+ x upw>ds1 br+ x  
out on l9e #d level ) ! po9t :]e y la/  
br\ght x out4 ,make a *a9-/it* slant+   
d[nw>ds ?is "t f "r to left1 & br+ y\r  
ne$le out on l9e #c4 ,la/ly1 put y\r    
ne$le into l9e #b1 #a_/h? ( an in* bel[ 
! la/ /it*1 &1 slant+ x upw>ds1 br+ x   
out on l9e #a4  ,fea!r-/it* is n adapt$ 
to cov]+ broad surfaces solidly1 b may  
be us$ = n>r[ ones4  ,,ori5tal-,,/it* is
 ! "n giv5 to a close k9d ( fea!r-/it*  
mu* us$ 9 ,ea/]n "w4 ,! diff]5ce at once
 app>5t to ! eye betwe5 ! two is t1     

:]eas = ! mid-rib ( a b& or leaf (      
fea!r-/it*+ 7#be7 y h cross l9es1 9     
,ori5tal-/it* 7#bg7 y h a /raight       
l9e--long] or %ort] z ! case may be4    
,ori5tal-/it*1 sometimes call$          
,antique-/it*1 is a /it* 9 ?ree /rokes1 
j z fea!r-/it* is a /it* 9 f\r4 ,x is   
usually work$ horizontally1 ?\gh %[n    
upright on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #bg4  
,l fea!r-/it* 7see diagram71 x is work$ 
on f\r guid+ l9es1 fa9tly visible on !  
sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a1 ,b1 ,c4
  ,/it*es ,a1 ,b1 & ,c are work$ 9      
precisely ! same way4 ,br+ y\r ne$le out
 at ! top ( l9e #a4 ,keep ! ?read "u y\r
 ?umb to ! "r & put y\r ne$le 9 at ! top
 ( l9e #d1 br++ x out into l9e #c on !  
same level4 ,!n put x 9 aga9 at l9e #b1 
j on ! o!r side ( ! ?read1 & br+ x out  
on l9e #a ready to beg9 ! next /it*4    
,illu/ration3 #bg4 ,,ori5tal-,,/it*     
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #bh4           
,,ori5tal-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74  ,x 
w be se5 t ! l5g? ( ! c5tral "p 7or     
mid-rib1 z x 0 call$ above7 makes ! :ole

 diff]5ce betwe5 ! ?ree v>ieties ( /it*4
 ,9 ,a ! ?ree p>ts are equal3 9 ,b !    
mid-rib is n>r[3 9 ,c x is broad1 z is  
mo/ pla9ly se5 on ! back ( ! sampl]     
7#bh74 ,! diff]5ce is only a diff]5ce ( 
proportion4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+  
,,( ,a1 ,b1 ,c ,,on ,,ori5tal-,,/it*    
,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,d4  ,!  
slop+ /it* at ,d is work$ 9 ! same way z
 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 except t in/ead ( /raight  
/rokes ) ! ne$le y make slant+ ones4    
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,e4  ,/it* ,e diff]s
 f ,d 9 t ! side /rokes slant bo? 9 !   
same direction4 ,x is work$ f "r to left
 in/ead ( f left to "r4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to 
,,"w ,f4  ,/it* ,f is a comb9ation (    
buttonhole & ,ori5tal /it*es4 ,betwe5   
two r[s ( buttonhol+ 7d>k on sampl]7 a  
s+le r[ ( ,ori5tal-/it* is work$4  ,!   
/it* employ$ = ! c5tral /alk1 ,g1 has   
really no bus9ess on ?is sampl]1 except 
t x has some?+ ( ! appe>ance ( a        
cont9u\s ,ori5tal-/it*4  ,ori5tal-/it*  
is "o ( ! /it*es us$ 9 ,illu/ration #gb4
     ,,rope ,,& ,,knot ,,/it*es4   ,a   

s+le sampl] is devot$ to ,,rope &       
,,knott$ ,,/it*es1 m ne>ly ak9 ?an !y   
look1 = rope-/it* is all b knott$ z x is
 work$4  ,,rope-,,/it* is s call$       
because ( its appe>ance4 ,x takes a l>ge
 am\nt ( silk or wool to "w x1 b !      
effect is correspond+ly ri*4 ,x is work$
 f "r to left1 & is easi] to "w 9 curv$ 
l9es ?an 9 /raight4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w
 ,a1 ,b4  ,l9es ,a on ! sampl]1         
,illu/ration #bi1 repres5t ! ord9>y     
appe>ance ( ! /it*2 its con/ruction is m
 app>5t 9 ! c5tral /alk ,b1 :i* is a    
less usual =m ( ! same /it*1 work$ wid] 
ap>t4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,a1
 ,b1 ,,on ,,rope-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,hav+
 br\ght out y\r ne$le at ! "r end ( !   
"w1 hold "p ( ! ?read t[>ds ! left1 "u !
 ?umb1 ! re/ ( x fall+ to ! "r2 put y\r 
ne$le 9 above :]e x came out1 slant x   
t[>ds y1 & br+ x out aga9 a little 9    
advance ( :]e x came out be=e1 & j bel[ 
! ?read held "u y\r ?umb4 ,draw ! ?read 
?r\gh1 & !re results a /it* :i* looks r 
l a di/ort$ *a9 /it* 7,b74 ,! next /ep  

is to make ano!r simil> /it* s close to 
! =ego+ "o t x ov]laps x p>tly4 ,x is   
?is ov]lapp+ :i* gives ! /it* ! rais$ & 
rope-l appe>ance se5 at ,a4             
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,c ,,on   
,,rope-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to 
,,"w ,c4  ,a knott$ l9e 7,c 9 ! sampl]1 
,illu/ration #bi7 is produc$ by :at is  
kn[n z ,,g]man ,,knot-,,/it*1 effective 
only 9 ?ick s(t silk or wool4 ,beg9 z 9 
rope /it*1 keep+ y\r ?read 9 ! same     
position4 ,!n put y\r ne$le into ! /uff 
j above ! ?read /ret*$ "u y\r ?umb1 &   
br+ x out j bel[ & 9 a l9e ) :]e x w5t  
92 la/ly1 keep ! ne$le above ! loose end
 ( ! ?read1 draw x ?r\gh1 tight5+ !     
?read upw>ds1 & y h ! fir/ ( y\r knots3 
! re/ foll[ at int]vals det]m9$ by y\r  
wants4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,d4  ,! m   
op5 /it* at ,d is practically ! same ?+1
 except t 9 cross+ ! runn+ ?read y take 
up m ( ! /uff on ea* side ( x4          
,illu/ration3 #bi4 ,,rope-,,/it* ,,&    
,,knot-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3  
#cj4 ,,rope-,,/it* ,,& ,,knot-,,/it*    

,,sampl] 7,,back74  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w 
,e4  ,:at is kn[n by ! "n ( ,,old       
,,engli% ,,knot-,,/it* 7,e7 is a mu* m  
complicat$ /it*4 ,keep+ y\r ?read well  
out ( ! way to ! "r1 put y\r ne$le 9 to 
! left1 & take up v]tically a piece ( ! 
/uff ! wid? ( ! l9e to be work$ at its  
wide/1 & draw ! ?read ?r\gh4 ,!n1 keep+ 
x "u ! ?umb to ! left1 put y\r ne$le1   
eye fir/1 d[nw>ds1 ?r\gh ! slant+ /it* j
 made2 draw ! ?read n too tight1 &1     
keep+ x z be=e "u ! ?umb1 put y\r ne$le1
 eye fir/1 ?is "t ?r\gh ! upp] half only
 ( ! slant+ /it*1 mak+ a k9d (          
buttonhole-/it* r\nd ! la/1 & draw out  
y\r ?read4  ,^! knott$ rope /it*es1 call
 !m :at y w1 are r ragg$ & fussy--n mu* 
m ?an fancy /it*es--( no great          
importance4 ,,knots us$ sep>ately are ( 
mu* m arti/ic acc\nt4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to   
,,"w ,f4  ,,bullion or ,,roll-,,/it* is 
%[n 9 its simple/ =m 9 ! petals ( !     
fl[]s ,f on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #bi4 
,to "w "o su* petal1 beg9 by atta*+ !   
?read v firmly2 br+ y\r ne$le out at !  

base ( ! petal1 put x 9 at ! tip1 & br+ 
x out once m at ! base1 only draw+ x    
p>tly ?r\gh4 ,) y\r "r h& w9d ! ?read1  
say sev5 times1 r\nd ! project+ po9t ( !
 ne$le f left to "r4 ,!n1 hold+ ! coils 
"u y\r left ?umb1 y\r ?read to ! "r1    
draw y\r ne$le & ?read ?r\gh2 &1 dropp+ 
! ne$le1 & cat*+ ! ?read r\nd y\r little
 f+]1 take hold ( ! ?read ) y\r ?umb &  
fir/ f+] & draw ! coil$ /it* to ! "r1   
tight5+ x g5tly until q firm4 ,la/ly1   
put ! ne$le ?r\gh at ! tip ( ! petal1 & 
! /it* is complete & ready to be fa/5$  
(f4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,f   
,,on ,,knot-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,! leaves 
( ^! fl[]s consi/ simply ( two bullion  
/it*es4 ,! bullion knots at ! side ( !  
c5tral /alk are curl$ by tak+ up 9 !    
fir/ in/ance only ! smalle/ piece ( !   
/uff4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,g4  ,to "w  
,,fr5* ,,knots 7,g71 hav+ br\ght out y\r
 ne$le at ! po9t :]e ! knot is to be1   
hold ! ?read "u y\r ?umb1 &1 lett+ x lie
 to ! "r1 put y\r ne$le "u ! /ret*$ "p (
 x4 ,turn ! ne$le s z to twi/ ! ?read   

once r\nd x4 ,t done1 put ! ne$le 9 aga9
 ab\t :]e x came out1 draw x ?r\gh f !  
back1 & br+ x out :]e ! next knot is to 
be4  ,= l>ge knots use two or m ?reads (
 silk1 & d n twi/ !m m ?an once4 ,) a   
s+le ?read y may twi/ twice1 b ! result 
( twi/+ ?ree or f\r times is nev] happy4
  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,g ,,on 
,,knot-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,! use ( knots 
is %[n to p]fection 9 ,illu/ration #bd4 
,work$ !re 9 :ite silk floss ^u a d>k   
purple gr\nd1 !y are q pe>ly 9          
appe>ance1 :e!r 9 r[s betwe5 ! bord]    
l9es1 or scatt]$ ov] ! gr\nd4 ,!y are   
mo/ useful 9 hold+ ! design toge!r1 giv+
 x mass1 & g admirably ) *a9-/it*+1 to  
:i*1 :5 close toge!r1 !y h at fir/ sight
 "s lik5ess4 ,a s+le l9e ( knots may    
almo/ be mi/ak5 = *a9-/it*2 b ( !mselves
 !y d n make a good outl9e1 lack+       
firmness4 ,a happi] use ( !m is to fr+e 
an outl9e1 z = example 9 ! peacock's    
tail on page #ch2 b ?is k9d ( ?+ mu/ be 
us$ ) retic5ce1 or x results 9 a r      
rococo effect4 ,good use is sometimes   

made ( knots to pe>l ! inn] edge ( a    
patt]n work$ 9 outl9e1 or to patt]n !   
ornam5t 7in/ead ( ! gr\nd7 all ov]4     
,diff]5c+ ( ?is k9d may be an           
aft]?\ght--& a happy "o--af=d+ z x does 
a ready means ( qualify+ ! col\r or     
texture ( gr\nd1 or patt]n1 or "p (     
ei!r1 :i* may n h work$ out q to !      
embroid]]'s lik+4  ,! obvi\s fitness (  
knots to repres5t ! /am5s ( fl[]s is    
exemplifi$ 9 ,illu/ration #ic4 ,work$   
close toge!r1 !y repres5t admirably !   
eyes ( composite fl[]s1 z on ! sampl]2  
!y give1 aga91 valuable v>iety ( texture
 to ! cre/ ( ! /ork 9 ,illu/ration #he4 
,! effect ( knott+ 9 ! mass is %[n 9    
,illu/ration #ca1 embroid]$ entirely 9  
knots1 contradict+1 x might seem1 :at 0 
said above ab\t its unfitness = outl9e  
"w4 ,! l9es1 ev5 ! void$ ones1 are "h z 
%>p z c\ld be2 b !n1 x is n _m ( u :o   
"w1 knot by knot1 ) ! m>vell\s precision
 ( a ,*9aman4 ,8 knott$ texture is n1   
h[ev]1 always :at x seems4 ,he has a way
 ( produc+ a knott$ l9e by fir/ knott+ 8

 ?read 7x may be done ) a nett+ ne$le71 
& !n /it*+ x d[n on to ! surface ( !    
mat]ial1 :i* gives a pe>l$ or bead$ l9e 
n readily di/+ui%able f knot /it*4      
,illu/ration3 #ca4 ,a ,,t\r ,,de ,,=ce  
,,9 ,,knots4  ,! ,japanese embroid]]1   
in/ead ( knott+ 8 own ?read1 employ$ v  
(t5 a cr9kl$ braid4 ,?is is %[n 9 ! cl\d
 "w 9 ,illu/ration #he4 ,! only true    
knott+ !re is 9 ! top-knot ( ! bird4    
,illu/ration3 #cb4 ,,int]lac+-,,/it*    
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #cc4           
,,int]lac+-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74    
,,int]lac+s1 ,,surface ,,/it*es1 ,,&    
,,diap]s4   ,! sampl]s s f> discuss$ br+
 u1 ) ! exception ( ,d>n+1 ,sat9-/it*1 &
 "s /it*es pres5tly to be m5tion$1      
practically to ! end ( ! /it*es1 des]v+ 
to be s call$1 g5]ally 9 use4  ,by      
comb9+ two or m /it*es endless          
complications may be made2 & !re may be 
occasions :51 = "o purpose or ano!r1 x  
may be necess>y1 z well z amus+1 to     
inv5t !m4 ,9 ?is way /it*es are also    
sometimes work$ ^u /it*es1 z %[n on !   

sampl]1 ,illu/ration #cb4 ,y w see1 on  
ref]r+ to ! back ( x 7#cc71 t only !    
:ite silk is work$ into ! /uff3 ! d>k is
 surface "w only4 ,!re is no end to su* 
possible ,,int]lac+s4 ,^? on ! sampl] d 
n ne$ mu* explanation2 b x may be z well
 to say t ,a />ts ) crewel-/it*+2 ,b &  
,c ) back-/it*+2 ,d ) *a9-/it*+2 ,e )   
d>n+ or runn+2 ,f1 ,g1 & ,h ) v>ieties (
 h]r+-bone-/it*2 ,j ) ,ori5tal-/it*2 &  
,k ) fea!r-/it*4 ,! int]lac+ on !       
surface ( ^! is %[n 9 d>k] silk4 ,c & ,g
 und]go a second c\rse ( int]lac+4  ,!  
dang] ( splitt+ ! fir/ /it*es 9 work+ ! 
int]lac+ ones1 is avoid$ by pass+ !     
ne$le eye-fir/ ?r\gh !m4  ,o!r surface  
"w1 sometimes call$ ,,lace-,,/it*1 is   
illu/rat$ 9 ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #cd4 
,!re is really no limit to patt]ns ( ?is
 k9d4 ,"s are bett] work$ 9 a frame1 b t
 is v mu* a matt] ( p]sonal practice4   
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+ ,,( ,f ,,on   
,,int]lac+-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3  
,,to ,,"w ,h1 #cd4  ,9 ! ,surface ,d>n+ 
at ,h 7#cd7 long ?reads are fir/ c>ri$ f

 edge to edge ( ! squ>e1 !re only pi]c+ 
! /uff1 & !n d>n$ across by o!r /it*es1 
aga9 only pi]c+ x at ! edges4  ,an      
oblique v]sion ( ?is is giv5 at ,c      
7#cd74  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b1 #cd4  ,!
 ,lace ,buttonhol+ at ,b 7#cd7 is work$ 
z foll[s3--,buttonhole ?ree /it*es into 
! /uff f left to "r1 n q close toge!r1 &
 fur!r on ?ree m2 !n1 work+ f "r to     
left1 make ?ree buttonhole /it*es into !
 ?read connect+ ! /it* gr\ps2 b d n /it*
 into ! /uff except at ! ends ( ! r[s4  
,! la/ r[ mu/1 ( c\rse1 be work$ into ! 
/uff aga94  ,illu/ration3 #cd4          
,,surface-,,/it* ,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3   
,,to ,,"w ,f1 #cd4  ,net ,pass+1 z at ,f
 7#cd71 is n v diff]5tly work$ f ,a or  
,b4 ,x is mu* m op51 & ! fir/ r[ (      
horizontal /it*es is cross$ by two      
opposite r[s ( oblique /it*es1 :i* are  
made to int]lace4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w  
,g1 #cd4  ,! squ>e at ,g is work$ by    
fir/ mak+ r[s ( %ort upright /it*es     
work$ into ! /uff1 & !n ?read+ loose    
/it*es ?r\gh !m4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w   

,d1 #cd4  ,! squ>e at ,d is work$ on !  
op5 lattice %[n2 ! solid p>ts are       
produc$ by int]lac+ /it*es f side to    
side1 />t+ at ! angle4  ,9 ! squ>e at ,e
 7,japanese ,d>n+7 horizontal l9es are  
fir/ d>n$1 & !n zigzag l9es are work$   
betwe5 !m1 mu* z 9 ,g2 b1 z !y p5etrate 
! mat]ial1 ?is is sc>cely a surface     
/it*4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a1 #cd4  ,! 
horizontal l9es at top & bottom ( !     
squ>e at ,a are back-/it*+1 ! int]m$iate
 ones simply long ?reads c>ri$ f "o side
 to ! o!r2 !y are lac$ toge!r by l9es   
loop$ r\nd !m4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,l1 
#cd4  ,! b& at ,l is begun by mak+      
horizontal b> /it*es4 ,a r[ (           
crewel-/it* & "o ( outl9e-/it*1 work$ on
 to ! b>s1 & n into ! /uff1 makes !     
c5tral *a94  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,k1    
#cd4  ,! b& at ,k is m]ely surface      
buttonhol+ ov] a s]ies ( slant+ /it*es4 
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,j1 #cd4  ,! b& at  
,j is buttonhole /it*+ wide ap>t1 ! b>s 
fill$ 9 ) surface crewel-/it*4          
,illu/ration3 #ce4 ,,lace ,,or ,,surface

 ,,/it*4  ,mo/ delicate surface /it*+   
occurs 9 ,illu/ration #ce1 ! f9e net be+
 work$ only f edge to edge ( ! spaces x 
fills1 & n else:]e ent]+ ! /uff2 :i*    
acc\nts = mo/ ( x be+ worn away4 ,! fl[]
 or scroll-"w is bona fide embroid]y1   
work$ ?r\gh ! /uff4 ,! delicate network 
( f9e /it*+1 :i* once cov]$ ! :ole ( !  
backgr\nd1 is = ! mo/ "p nei!r m nor    
less ?an a float+ gossam] ( lacework4   
,"o _c d5y t t is embroid]y1 ?\gh x has 
to be said t lace-/it*es are employ$ 9  
x4  ,/]n embroid]]s w\ld l to d5y x4 ,( 
c\rse x is frivol\s1 & 9 a s5se flimsy1 
b x is also delicate & da9ty to a       
degree4 ,x is suit$ only to dress1 & t (
 ! mo/ exquisite k9d4 ,a ,fr5* m>quise (
 ! ,reg5cy might h worn x1 & possibly   
did we> x1 ) entire propriety--if ! ^w  
is n out ( keep+ ) ! p]iod4  ,! frailty 
( ?is k9d ( ?+ is too obvi\s to ne$     
m5tion1 & t1 ( c\rse1 is a /rong argum5t
 aga9/ x4  ,all attempt to give sep>ate 
names to diap]s ( ?is k9d1 :e!r work$ ^u
 ! surface or into ! /uff1 is futile4   

,!y ought n ev5 to be call$ /it*es1 be+1
 9 fact1 nei!r m nor less ?an /it*      
patt]ns1 to :i* !re is no possible      
limit1 unless x be ! limit ( human      
inv5tion4 ,e +5i\s workwoman w f9d out  
patt]ns ( h] own m or less4 ,!y are v   
useful = fill+ 9 surfaces 7patt]n or    
backgr\nd7 :i* x may be inexp$i5t to "w 
m solidly4  ,! great] "p ( su* patt]ns  
are geometric 7,illu/rations #ce & #gc71
 foll[+1 t is to say1 ! me% ( ! mat]ial1
 & mak+ no secret ( x4 ,on ,illu/ration 
#c y see v pla9ly h[ ! rectangul>       
diap]+s are built up geometrically on ! 
squ>e l9es ( ! me%1 z 0 practically     
inevitable work+ on su* a gr\nd4 ,!     
relation ( /it* to /uff is "h obvi\s4   
,! *oice ( /it* patt]ns ( ?is k9d is    
inv>iably left to ! ne$lewoman4 ,! utmo/
 a design] ne$ d is to indicate on 8    
draw+ t a full1 op51 or int]m$iate diap]
 is to be us$4 ,& ! alt]nation ( light] 
& heavi] diap]s %\ld be plann$1 & n left
 altoge!r to impulse1 ?\gh ! patt]n may 
be4 ,moreov]1 !re is room = ! ex]cise ( 

consid]able ta/e 9 ! *oice ( simpl] or m
 elaborate patt]ns1 fre] or m geometric4
 ,_m a "t ! %ape ( ! space to be fill$1 
z well z its ext5t1 w sugge/ !          
appropriate ornam5t4 ,! diap] design is 
n1 ( c\rse1 drawn on ! /uff1 b po9ts (  
guidance may be indicat$ ?r\gh a k9d (  
f9e /5cil plate4  ,! patt]ns us$ =      
backgr\nd diap]+ ne$ n1 z a rule1 be    
intr9sically s int]e/+ z ^? :i* diap] ! 
design itself1 nor are !y usually s     
full4 ,!y take m (t5 ! =m ( spot or     
sprig patt]ns1 n cont9u\s1 9 :i* !      
geometric con/ruction is n s obvi\s1 nor
 ev5 necess>y4 ,9 ei!r case ! prime     
object ( ! /it*+ is n s mu* to make     
ornam5tal patt]ns z to give a t9t to !  
/uff )\t entirely hid+ x ) "w2 & ! work]
 *ooses a light] or heavi] diap] accord+
 to ! t9t requir$4 ,if ! "w is all 9    
:ite x is texture1 in/ead ( t9t1 t is   
aim$ at4  ,= a backgr\nd1 simple d>n+ m 
or less op51 9 /it*es n too regul>1 is  
(t5 ! be/ solution ( ! difficulty4 ,!   
effect ( ! gr\nd gr9n+ ?r\gh is         

delightful4     ,,sat9-,,/it* ,,& ,,its 
,,(f%oots4   ,,sat9-,,/it* is p>        
excell5ce ! /it* = f9e silkwork4 ,i d n 
"k if ! "n ( sat9-/it* comes f its be+ s
 l>gely employ$ ^u sat91 or f ! effect (
 ! "w itself1 :i* w\ld c]ta9ly ju/ify ! 
title1 s smoo? & sat9-l is its surface4 
,giv5 a mat]ial ( :i* ! texture is q    
smoo? & ev51 %[+ no me%1 sat9-/it* seems
 ! mo/ natural & obvi\s way ( work+ ^u  
x4 ,9 x ! embroidress works ) %ort1     
/raight /rokes ( ! ne$le1 j z a p5      
draughtsman lays side by side ! /rokes (
 8 p52 b1 z %e _c1 ( c\rse1 leave (f h] 
/roke z ! p5man does1 %e has p]=ce to   
br+ back ! ?read on ! "u side ( ! /uff1 
s t1 if v c>efully done1 ! "w is ! same 
on bo? sides4  ,sat9-/it*1 h[ev]1 ne$ n 
be1 & nev] 01 conf9$ to "w ^u silk or   
sat94 ,9 fact1 x 0 n only work$ ^u f9e  
l951 b (t5 foll[$ ! l9es ( its me%1     
/epp+1 z 9 ,illu/ration #i1 to ! tune ( 
! /uff4 ,?is may be describ$ z sat9-/it*
 9 ! mak+--at any rate1 x is ! elem5t>y 
=m ( x1 its relation to canvas-/it* be+ 

app>5t on ! face ( x4 ,/ill1 beautiful &
 mo/ accompli%$ "w has be5 done 9 x     
alike by ,m$iaeval1 ,r5aissance1 &      
,ori5tal ne$lework]s4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to   
,,"w ,a1 #cf4  ,to cov] a space ) regul>
 v]tical sat9 /it*es 7,a on ! sampl]1   
,illu/ration #cf71 ! be/ way ( proce$+  
is to beg9 9 ! c5tre ( ! space & "w f   
left to "r4 ,t half done1 beg9 aga9 9 ! 
c5tre & "w f "r to left4  ,9 ord] to    
make sure ( a crisp & ev5 edge to y\r   
=ms1 always let ! ne$le ent] ! /uff !re1
 z x is n easy to f9d ! po9t y want f ! 
back4  ,9 work+ a second r[ ( /it*es1   
proce$ z be=e1 only plant+ y\r ne$le    
betwe5 ! /it*es already done4 ,fa/5 (f )
 a few t9y surface /it*es & cut (f !    
silk on ! "r side ( ! /uff3 x w be work$
 ov]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b1 #cf4  ,to
 cov] a space ) horizontal sat9 /it*es  
7,b on sampl]71 beg9 at ! top1 & "w f   
left to "r4 ,! long] /ret*es !re are n1 
( c\rse1 cross$ at "o /it*2 !y take     
sev]al /it*es1 dovetail$1 z x 71 s z n  
to give l9es4  ,! easie/1 mo/           

satisfactory1 & g5]ally mo/ effective   
way ( work+ flat sat9 /it* is 9 oblique 
or radiat+ l9es 7,c1 ,d1 ,e71 work+ 9 ^?
 in/ances1 z 9 ! case ( ,a1 f ! c5tre1  
fir/ f left to "r & !n f "r to left4    
,illu/ration3 #cf4 ,,sat9-,,/it*        
,,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 #cg4           
,,sat9-,,/it* ,,sampl] 7,,back74  ,/ems1
 n>r[ leaflets1 & ! l1 are be/ work$    
always 9 /it*es :i* run diagonally & n  
/raight across ! =m4  ,9 ! case ( /ems  
or o!r l9es curv$ & work$ obliquely1 !  
/it*es mu/ be v mu* clos] on ! inn] side
 ( ! curve ?an on ! outside3            
occasionally a half-/it* may be necess>y
 to keep ! direction ( ! l9es "r1 9 :i* 
case ! inside end ( ! half-/it* mu/ be q
 cov]$ by ! /it* next foll[+4           
,illu/ration3 #ch4 ,,sat9-,,/it* ,,9    
,,co>se ,,twi/$ ,,silk4  ,sat9-/it* is  
se5 at its be/ :5 work$ 9 floss4 ,co>se 
or twi/$ silk looks co>se 9 ?is /it*1 z 
may be se5 by comp>+ ! petal ,d 9 !     
sampl]1 ,illu/ration #cf1 ) ! petal 9   
twi/$ silk "h giv5 7#ch74 ,m>vell\sly   

skilful z are ! ne$le-work]s ( ,india   
7,illu/ration #ci71 !y get r brok5 l9es 
:5 !y "w 9 ?ick twi/$ silk4 ,! precision
 ( l9e a skill$ work] c get 9 floss is  
wond]ful4 ,an ,ori5tal w get sweep+ l9es
 z clean & firm z if !y _h be5 drawn ) a
 p51 & ?is n m]ely 9 ! case ( an outl9e1
 b 9 void$ l9es ( :i* ea* side has to be
 drawn ) ! ne$le4 ,! void$ outl9e1 by ! 
way1 z on ,illu/rations #ci1 #dj1 is n  
only ! franke/ way ( def9+ =m1 b seems  
peculi>ly prop] to sat9-/it*2 & x is a  
te/ ( skill 9 workman%ip3 x is s easy to
 disguise unev5 /it*+ by an outl9e 9 "s 
o!r /it*4 ,! void+ 9 ! w+s ( ! birds 9  
,illu/ration #dj is p]fect2 & ! s(t5+ ( 
! void$ l9e1 at ! />t ( ! w+ 9 "o case &
 ! tail 9 ! o!r1 by cross /it*+ 9 ?reads
 comp>atively wide ap>t1 is q ! "r ?+ to
 d4 ,x w\ld h be5 m 9 keep+ to void !   
ve9s ( ! lotus leaves ?an to plant !m on
 9 cord4  ,sat9-/it* mu/ n be too long1 
& x is (t5 a s]i\s consid]ation ) !     
design] h[ to break up ! surfaces to be 
cov]$ s t only %orti% /it*es ne$ be us$4

 ,y might foll[ ! ve9+ ( a leaf1 =      
example1 & "w f ve9 to ve94 ,b all      
leaves are n naturally ve9$ 9 ! mo/     
accommodat+ mann]4 ,treatm5t is         
accord+ly necess>y1 & s we arrive at a  
conv5tion appropriate to embroid]y ( ?is
 k9d4 ,x takes a draughtsman prop]ly to 
express =m by /it* di/ribution4 ,!      
,*9ese conv5tion 9 ! lotus fl[]s        
7,illu/ration #dj7 is admirable4        
,illu/ration3 #ci4 ,,sat9-,,/it* ,,9    
,,f9e ,,twi/$ ,,silk4  ,x is ! rule ( ! 
game to lay sat9-/it* v ev5ly4 ,work$ 9 
floss1 ! m]e surface ( sat9-/it* is     
beautiful4 ,a fur!r *>m lies 9 ! way x  
l5ds itself to gradation ( col\r4       
,beautiful results may be obta9$ by !   
use ( p]fectly flat t9ts ( col\r1 z 9   
,illu/ration #dj2 b ! subtle/ z well z !
 mo/ delib]ate gradation ( t9t may be   
mo/ p]fectly r5d]$ 9 sat9-/it*4         
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,,surface           
,,sat9-,,/it*4  ,,surface ,,sat9-,,/it* 
7n ! same on bo? sides71 ?\gh x looks v 
mu* l ord9>y sat9-/it*1 is work$ 9 ano!r

 way4 ,! ne$le1 t is to say1 aft] ea*   
/it* is br\ght imm$iately up aga91 & !  
silk is c>ri$ back on ! upp] in/ead ( ! 
"u side ( ! /uff4 ,consid]able economy (
 silk is effect$ by ?us keep+ ! ?read z 
mu* z possible on ! surface1 b ! effect 
is apt to be proportionately poor]4     
,moreov]1 ! "w is n s la/+ z :5 x is    
solid4 ,! sat9-/it* on ,illu/ration #eh 
is all surface "w4 ,x looks loose1 :i* x
 is always apt to d1 unless x is kept   
/ret*$ on ! frame1 on :i*1 ( c\rse1     
sat9-/it* is = ! mo/ "p work$4 ,v       
effective ,indian "w is done ( ?is      
k9d--loose & flimsy1 b s]v+ a di/9ct    
arti/ic purpose4 ,x is to embroid]y ( m 
s]i\s k9d :at sc5e pa9t+ is to mural    
decoration4  ,illu/ration3 #dj4 ,,*9ese 
,,sat9-,,/it*4  ,embroid]y is (t5       
describ$ z be+ 9 long-&-%ort-/it*1 a t]m
 prop]ly descriptive n ( a /it*1 b ( its
 dim5sions4 ,:e!r y use /it*es ( equal  
or ( unequal l5g? is a "q m]ely ( !     
adaptation ( ! /it* to its use 9 any    
giv5 in/ance2 !re is no?+ ga9$ by call+ 

an arrangem5t ( alt]nat+ /it*es1 long & 
%ort1 or by call+ !m plumage-/it*1 or1  
:i* is m mislead+1 fea!r-/it*1 :5 !y    
radiate s z to foll[ ! =m1 say1 ( a     
bird's brea/4 ,! bodies ( ! birds 9     
,illu/rations #dj & #he are 9           
plumage-/it* s call$4 ,?is adaptation ( 
/it* to bird or o!r =ms gives ! effect (
 f9e fea!r+ p]fectly4 ,b :y apply ! t]m 
sat9-/it* exclusively to p>allel l9es ( 
/it*es all ( a l5g?8  ,long-&-%ort-/it*1
 !n1 is a sort ( sat9-/it*2 only1 in/ead
 ( ! /it*es be+ all ( equal l5g?1 !y are
 work$ "o into ! o!rs or betwe5 !m1 z 9 
! faces 9 ,illu/rations #gi & #hj4  ,a  
little fur!r remov$ f sat9-/it* is :at  
is kn[n z split-/it*1 9 :i* ! ne$le is  
br\ght up ?r\gh ! =ego+ /it*1 & splits  
x4 ,! way ( work+ ?is /it* is m fully   
giv5 on page #aje4  ,! work] adapts1 z a
 matt] ( c\rse1 ! l5g? ( ! /it* to ! "w 
to be done1 direct+ x also accord+ to ! 
=m to be express$1 & s arrives1 almo/   
be=e he is aw>e ( x1 by way ( sat9-/it*1
 at :at is call$ plumage-/it*4          

,illu/ration3 #da4 ,,(f%oots ,,f ,,sat9 
,,& ,,crewel ,,/it*es4  ,illu/ration3   
#db4 ,,(f%oots ,,f ,,sat9 ,,& ,,crewel  
,,/it*es 7,,back74  ,! di/9ction betwe5 
! /it*es s f> describ$ is pla9 en\gh1 & 
an all-r\nd embroidress le>ns to "w !m2 
b work]s end 9 work+ _! own way1 modify+
 ! /it* accord+ to ! "w x is put to d1 &
 produce results :i* x w\ld be difficult
 to describe & p$antic to f9d fault )4  
,ev5 %ort1 h[ev]1 ( su* individual      
treatm5t1 ! m]e adaptation ( ! /it* to !
 l9es ( ! design removes x f ! normal4  
,x makes a diff]5ce1 too1 :e!r x is     
work$ 9 a frame or 9 ! h&3 9 ! "o case y
 see m lik5ess to "o /it*1 9 ! o!r to   
ano!r4 ,! fl[] at ,b1 = example1 & !    
leaf at ,d1 on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration   
#da1 are bo? work$ 9 :at is commonly    
call$ plumage1 or embroid]y /it*1 ?\gh !
 t]m dovetail1 sometimes us$1 seems to  
describe x bett]4 ,in/ance ,b1 h[ev]1 is
 work$ 9 ! h&1 & ,d 9 a frame--f :i* v  
fact x foll[s t ! work] is naturally    
dispos$ to reg>d ,b z ak9 to crewel-/it*

 & ,d to sat9-/it*1 betwe5 :i* two      
/it*es dovetail may be reg>d$ z !       
connect+ l9k4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,work+
 ,,( ,b ,,on ,,sampl] #da4  ,sid5ote3   
,,to ,,"w ,b1 #da4  ,! petals at ,b are 
work$ 9 ! me?od illu/rat$ 9 ! diagram   
ov]leaf4 ,! fir/ /ep is to edge ! %ape )
 sat9-/it*es 9 ?rees1 successively long1
 %ort]1 & q %ort4 ,?is done1 />t+ at !  
base aga91 y put y\r ne$le 9 on ! upp]  
or "r side ( ! fir/ %ort /it*1 & br+ x  
out ?r\gh ! long /it* 7z %[n 9 !        
diagram74 ,y !n make a %ort /it* by     
putt+ y\r ne$le d[nw>ds ?r\gh ! mat]ial1
 & tak+ up a small piece ( x4 ,y h      
f9ally only to draw ! ne$le ?r\gh1 & x  
is 9 position to make ano!r long /it*4  
,z ! conc5tric r+s ( /it*+ become       
small]1 y make1 ( c\rse1 %ort] /it*es1 &
 y ne$ no long] pi]ce ! ?read ( ! long  
/it*4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,d1 #da4  ,! 
work+ ( ! scroll at ,d on ! sampl]1     
,illu/ration #da1 ne$s no detail$       
explanation4 ,anyone :o is acqua9t$ ) ! 
way sat9-/it* is work$ 7x has already   

be5 suffici5tly expla9$71 & has read !  
above acc\nt ( ! work+ ( ,b1 w und]/& at
 once h[ t is work$ 9 ! frame4  ,x w be 
se5 t !re is a slight diff]5ce 9 effect 
betwe5 ! two1 aris+ f ! fact t "w done 9
 ! h& is necess>ily m loosely & n q s   
ev5ly done z t on a frame4  ,sid5ote3   
,,to ,,"w ,,split-,,/it* ,c1 #da4       
,split-/it* 7,c on ! sampl]71 aga91     
resembles ei!r crewel-/it* or sat9-/it*1
 accord+ z x is work$ 9 ! h& or on a    
frame4 ,9 work+ 9 ! h&1 y take a r %ort]
 /it* back ?an 9 crewel-/it*1 pi]c+ ) ! 
ne$le ! ?read :i* is to =m ! next /it*4 
,9 work+ on a frame1 y br+ y\r ne$le    
always up ?r\gh ! la/-made sat9-/it* 9  
ord] to />t ! next4 ,:i*ev] way x is    
done1 split-/it* is (t5 difficult to    
di/+ui% )\t m9ute exam9ation f *a9-/it*4
 ,fur!r ref]5ce to its use is made 9 !  
*apt] on %ad+4 ,x may be int]e/+ to     
comp>e x ) crewel-/it* 7,a on ! sampl]71
 :i* is also a fav\rite /it* = %ad+4    
,,d>n+4   ,x is ! peculi>ity ( ,,d>n+ & 
,,runn+ t y make sev]al /it*es at "o    

pass+ ( ! ne$le4  ,d>n+ & runn+ am\nt   
practically to ! same ?+4 ,d>n+ might be
 describ$ z consecutive l9es ( runn+4 ,!
 diff]5ce is1 9 ! ma91 a matt] (        
multiplication2 b ! di/9ction is        
sometimes made t 9 runn+ ! /it*es may be
 ! same l5g? on ! face z on ! rev]se ( !
 /uff1 :]eas 9 d>n+ ! ?read is ma9ly on 
! surface1 only dipp+ = ! space ( a s+le
 ?read or s bel[ x4  ,x results f ! way 
( work+ t y get 9 d>n+ an int]rupt$ l9e 
*>act]i/ic ( ! /it*4 ,:at is call$ d\ble
 d>n+1 by :i* ! breaks 9 ! s+le d>n+ are
 made good1 has 9 effect no "* ( d>n+   
:atev]4  ,d>n+ has a homely s\nd1 b x is
 useful = m ?an m5d+4 ,9 embroid]y y no 
long] use x to replace ?reads worn away1
 b build up ^u ! scaffold+ ( a m]ely    
s]viceable mat]ial :at may be a gorge\s 
design 9 silk4  ,illu/ration3 #dc4      
,,d>n+ ,,sampl]4  ,d>n+ is work$1 (     
c\rse1 9 r[s backw>ds & =w>ds2 b if !   
/it*es are long & 9 ! direction ( !     
weft1 x is z well n to run ! return+ r[ 
next to ! "o j done1 b to leave space = 

a second c\rse ( d>n+ aft]w>ds betwe5 ! 
op5 r[s4  ,! d>n+ ( ! sampl]1           
,illu/ration #dc1 is v simple4 ,! fl[]  
is d>n$ 9 /it*es ( fairly equal l5g?1   
tak+ up "o ?read ( ! mat]ial1 & cov]+ a 
space ( almo/ a qu>t] ( an in* be=e tak+
 up ! next ?read4 ,! outl9e ( a petal is
 fir/ work$1 & successive r[s ( d>n+    
foll[ ! l9es ( ! fl[]1 express+ to "s   
ext5t its =m4 ,mu* dep5ds ^u ! direction
 ( ! /it*4  ,! texture ( ! "w dep5ds ^u 
! l5g? ( ! /it*es1 & on ! am\nt ( ! /uff
 %[+ ?r\gh4  ,d>n+ is usually supplem5t$
 by outl9+4 ,! sampl] is design$ to %[  
h[ f> "o c disp5se ) x4 ,! fl[] /alk is 
def9$ by d>n+ ! fir/ r[ 9 a d>k] col\r2 
= ! re/1 void+ is employ$1 b x is n easy
 to void 9 d>n+4  ,! backgr\nd is d>n$  
diap] fa%ion4 ,x gives1 t is to say1    
delib]ately diagonal l9es4 ,a backgr\nd 
irregul>ly d>n$ %\ld be irregul> en\gh  
nev] to run into l9es n contemplat$ by !
 work]4  ,illu/ration3 #dd4 ,,d>n+      
,,design$ ,,by ,,william ,,morris4  ,9 !
 case ( l>ge leaves1 ve9$1 ! ve9+ %\ld  

be work$ fir/1 ! /it*es betwe5 !m       
radiat+ outw>ds to ! edge ( ! leaf4  ,m 
accompli%$ "w 9 d>n+ is %[n 9 ! bord] by
 ,william ,morris 9 ,illu/ration #dd1   
:]e x appe>s1 h[ev]1 mu* flatt] ?an 9 ! 
col\r$ silk4 ,x is work$ solid1 !       
radiat+ /it*es accommodat+ !mselves to !
 =ms ( ! leaves & petals1 :i*1 9 fact1  
are design$ ) a view to _! execution 9  
?is way4 ,!y are def9$ by               
outl9e-/it*+--light or d>k z occasion   
seem$ to require4  ,m5tion has already  
be5 made ( d>n+ a propos ( canvas-/it*2 
& !re is a sort ( natural correspond5ce 
betwe5 ! mecanique ( d>n+ 9 its simple/ 
=m & ! network ( op5 ?reads :i* gives to
 rectangul> d>n+1 l ! ,g]man "w 9       
,illu/ration #de1 "* :i* m ?an          
comp5sates = its angul>ity 9 outl9e4 ,! 
d>n+ is !re q ev5 9 workman%ip1 b x is1 
z w be se51 ( diff]5t degrees (         
/r5g?--light] = ! surface ( ! patt]n1   
heavi] = ! outl9e4  ,y may qualify !    
col\r ( a /uff by lightly d>n+ x ) silk 
( ano!r %ade1 & v subtle t9ts may be got

 by ?us1 z x 71 veil+ a col\r$ gr\nd )  
silks ( v>i\s hues4  ,illu/ration3 #de4 
,,flat ,,d>n+ ,,^u ,a ,,squ>e ,,me%4    
,,laid-,,"w4   ,! necessity = some?+ l  
:at is call$ ,,laid-,,"w is be/ %[n by  
ref]5ce to sat9-/it*4 ,x 0 said 9       
ref]5ce to x t sat9-/it*es %\ld n be too
 long4 ,!re is a great deal ( ,ea/]n "w 
9 :i* surface sat9-/it*1 or its         
equival5t1 floats s loosely ^u ! face ( 
! /uff t x c only be describ$ z flimsy4 
,no?+ c\ld be m beautiful 9 its way ?an 
c]ta9 ,s\danese embroid]y1 9 :i* col\r$ 
floss 9 /it*es an in* or m long lies    
gli/5+ on ! /uff )\t any int]ruption (  
?reads to fa/5 x d[n4  ,embroid]y ( ?is 
k9d1 h[ev]1 h>dly comes )9 ! scope (    
practical "w4 ,long1 loose /it*es want  
sew+ d[n4 ,"s compromise has to be made 
betwe5 art & beauty4 ,! problem is to   
make ! "w /rong en\gh )\t s]i\sly       
di/urb+ its lu/r\s surface1 & ! solution
 ( x is laid-"w1 at :i* we arrive ?us   
almo/ by necessity4  ,illu/ration3 #df4 
,,laid-,,"w ,,sampl]4  ,x involves no   

new /it*1 b is only ano!r way ( us+     
/it*es already describ$4 ,9 laid-"w1    
long tresses ( silk1 z ,william ,morris 
call$ !m1 floss by pref]5ce1 are ?r[n   
backw>ds & =w>ds across ! face ( ! /uff1
 only j pi]c+ x at ! edges ( ! =ms1 &   
back aga94 ,^! silk5 tresses are !n     
caught d[n & kept1 ,i w n say close to !
 gr\nd1 b 9 _! place ^u x1 by l9es (    
/it*+ 9 ! cross direction4  ,laid-"w is 
n1 at ! be/1 a v /rong or la/+ k9d (    
embroid]y 7x ne$s to be c>efully cov]$  
up ev5 z x is work$71 b by no o!r means 
is ! silky beauty ( col\r$ floss s      
p]fectly set =?4 ,x is h>dly wor? do+ 9 
any?+ b floss4  ,laid-"w l5ds itself    
also to gradation ( col\r )9 c]ta9      
limits--! limits1 t is to say1 ( !      
/raight p>allel l9es 9 :i* ! silk is    
laid3 ! direction ( ^! is det]m9$ (t5 by
 ! l9es ( sew+ :i* are to cross !m4 ,9  
any case ! direction ( ! ?reads is "h m 
?an ev] important4 ,! sew+ d[n mu/ take 
l9es & may =m patt]ns4  ,! sampl]1      
,illu/ration #df1 wants little or no    

explanation4 ,x illu/rates ! v>i\s ways 
( lay+4 ,9 ! leaf ! floss is sewn d[n ) 
split-/it*1 :i* =ms ! ve9+4 ,else:]e x  
is kept 9 place by c\*+1 a process      
pres5tly to be describ$4 ,= ! outl9es1  
split-/it* & c\*+ are employ$4 ,! la/ r[
 ( laid "w 9 ! gr\nd+ is purposely pull$
 out ( ! /raight by ! c\*+ 9 ord] to    
give a wav$ edge4 ,! diap] :i* repres5ts
 ! se$+ ( ! fl[] is n1 prop]ly speak+1  
laid-"w3 s+le ?reads ( :ite purse silk  
are !re c\*$ d[n ) d>k4  ,illu/ration3  
#dg4 ,,japanese ,,laid-,,"w4  ,= !      
transv]se /it*+1 = :i* also x is be/ to 
use floss1 ei!r split-/it* may be us$1 z
 9 ! leaf 9 ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #df1 
or a ?read may be laid across & sewn    
d[n--c\*$1 z x is call$--z 9 ! fl[]4 ,! 
clos] ! cross l9es ! /rong] ! "w1 b !   
less lu/r\s ! effect4  ,laid floss may  
be employ$ to glorify ! entire surface (
 a l95 mat]ial1 z 9 ! sampl] or = !     
patt]n only ^u a gr\nd wor? %[+1 z 9    
,illu/rations #dg1 #dh1 #di4  ,laid-"w w
 n give any?+ l modell+1 & x is n be/   

suit$ to figure design except :]e x is q
 flatly treat$4 ,an in/ance ( its use 9 
figure "w occurs on ,illu/ration #gi4 ,x
 is effective :5 q naively & simply us$ 
9 cross l9es :i* d n appe> to take any  
acc\nt ( ! =ms cross$--z1 = example1 9  
,illu/ration #dg1 :]e ! /it*+ does n    
pret5d to express m ?an a flat surface4 
,! floss1 h[ev]1 is !re c>efully laid at
 a diff]5t angle ( incl9ation 9 ea*     
petal1 s z to give v>iety ( col\r4 ,!   
l9es ( sew+ v>y accord+ to ! l9es ( !   
laid floss1 b d n cross !m at "r angles4
 ,! important ?+ is1 ( c\rse1 t !y %\ld 
cat* ! laid tresses at int]vals n too f>
 ap>t4 ,if ! l9es :i* sew d[n ! floss h 
also to express draw+1 z 9 ! case ( !   
bird's w+s 9 ,illu/ration #dh1 ! und]ly+
 floss mu/ be laid 9 l9es :i* !y w      
cross4 ,9 ! case ( ! leaves 9 ! same    
piece ( "w1 ! floss is laid 9 !         
direction 9 :i* ! leaf gr[s1 & ! /it*+  
across1 :i* sews x d[n1 is slightly     
curv$ s z to sugge/ r\ndness 9 !m4      
,illu/ration3 #dh4 ,,indo-,,portuguese  

,,laid-,,"w4  ,a m f9i%$ piece ( "w is  
%[n 9 ,illu/ration #di1 :]e ! laid floss
 crosses ! =ms1 & ! sew+ d[n takes v mu*
 ! place ( ve9+ 9 ! fl[]1 & ( ribs 9 !  
scroll1 express+ ab\t z mu* modell+ z c 
be express$ ?is way1 & m1 p]haps1 ?an x 
is advisable (t5 to attempt4  ,! sew+   
d[n ass]ts itself mo/1 ( c\rse1 :5 x is 
9 a col\r contra/+ ) ! laid floss1 z x  
does 9 ! leaves 9 ! small] sampl]       
ov]leaf4  ,! /it*+ d[n makes usually a  
patt]n m or less conspicu\s4 ,on ?is    
same sampl] x does s v delib]ately 9 !  
case ( ! broad /alk4 ,! r sudd5 v>iation
 ( ! col\r %[n !re 9 ! leaves is h>mless
 en\gh 9 bold "w1 to :i* ! process is   
be/ suit$4 ,"o may be too c>eful 9      
gradat+ ! t9ts3 timidity 9 ?is respect  
prevails too mu* among mod]n ne$lewom53 
an arti/ 9 floss %\ld n want h] "w to   
look l a gradat$ wa% ( col\r4 ,!        
,italians ( ! #af? & #ag? c5turies 7see 
,illu/ration #di7 7 n afraid ( r abrupt 
transition 9 ! %ades ( col\r !y us$ =   
laid-"w4  ,illu/ration3 #di4 ,,italian  

,,laid-,,"w4  ,illu/ration3 #ej4 ,,laid 
,,sampl]4  ,:5 laid floss is kept 9     
place by ?reads !mselves sewn d[n across
 x1 su* ?reads are call$ c\*$1 & ! "w   
itself may be describ$ z laid & c\*$4   
,h5ce arises "s confusion betwe5 ! two  
me?ods ( "w--lay+ & c\*+4 ,x saves      
confusion to make a %>p di/9ction betwe5
 ! two--us+ ! t]m laid only = /it*es    
7floss7 fir/ loosely laid ^u ! surface (
 ! /uff & !n sewn d[n by cross l9es (   
/it*+ ( :atev] k9d1 & c\*$ = ! sew+ d[n 
( cords1 c4 7silk or gold71 ?read by    
?read or 9 pairs4 ,laid floss is sewn   
d[n en masse1 c\*$ silk 9 s+le or d\ble 
?reads2 & accord+ly laid answ]s be/ =   
surface cov]+1 c\*$ = outl9+1 except 9 !
 case ( gold1 :i* ev5 = surface cov]+ is
 always c\*$4     ,,c\*+   ,,c\*+ is !  
sew+ d[n ( "o ?read by ano!r--z 9 !     
outl9e ( ! fl[] on ! laid sampl]1       
,illu/ration #df4 ,! /it*es ) :i* x is  
sewn d[n1 ?read by ?read1 or1 9 ! case (
 gold1 two ?reads at a "t1 are be/ work$
 f "r to left2 or1 9 outl9+1 f outside !

 =ms inw>ds1 & a wax$ ?read is (t5 us$ =
 ! purpose4 ,naturally ! cord to be sewn
 d[n %\ld be held fairly tightly 9 place
 to keep ! l9e ev54  ,x is usual 9 c\*+ 
to sew d[n ! silk or cord ) /it*es      
cross+ x at "r angles1 except 9 ! case (
 a twi/$ cord1 :i* %\ld be sewn d[n )   
/it*es 9 ! direction ( ! twi/4  ,c\*+ is
 be/ done 9 a frame2 b x may be done 9 !
 h& by means ( buttonhole-/it*4         
,illu/ration3 #ea4 ,a4 ,,bullion4 ,b4   
,,c\*$ ,,cord4  ,:5 a surface is cov]$ )
 c\*+1 z 9 ! se$+ ( ! fl[] 9 ! sampl]1  
,illu/ration #df1 ! sew+ d[n /it*es make
 a patt]n--all ! pla9] !re1 because !   
/it*+ is 9 a contra/+ %ade ( col\r4 ,x  
is q p]missible to call att5tion to !   
/it*+ if x suits y\r arti/ic purpose4   
,to disguise x by sew+ ?r\gh ! cord is n
 a workmanlike practice4 ,a work] %\ld  
frankly accept a me?od ( "w & get "* out
 ( x4  ,embroidresses h a clev] way (   
untwi/+ a cord be=e ea* /it* & twi/+ x  
aga9 aft] /it*+ ?r\gh x--betwe5 ! /r&s1 
t is to say1 9 :i* ! /it*+ is lo/4 ,!   

device is r too clev]4 ,x %[s a cord )  
no visible means ( atta*m5t to ! gr\nd1 
:i* is n desirable1 h[ev] mu* desir$4   
,!re is no advantage 9 atta*+ cords to !
 surface ( silk s t !y look z if !y _h  
be5 glu$ on to x4 ,conjur+ tricks are   
highly amus+1 b "o does n ?9k v highly (
 conjur]s4 ,p]sonally1 ,i w\ld mu* r h  
se5 m pla9ly ! way ! cord is sewn d[n 9 
! graceful cross 9 ,illu/ration #ea1 a  
design p]fectly adapt$ to c\*+1 & yet   
unlike ! usual ?+4  ,:]e x is s(ti% silk
 :i* is /it*$ d[n1 x makes a great      
diff]5ce :e!r x is loosely held &       
tightly sewn1 or ! contr>y4 ,contra/ !  
%ort puffy l9es ne>e/ ! corn]s 9 !      
sampl]1 ,illu/ration #eb1 ) ! long] ones
 betwe5 ! broad & n>r[ b&s4 ,! broad b& 
is work$ 9 r[s ( d\ble filoselle1 (     
v>i\s %ades1 sewn d[n ) s+le filoselle4 
,9 ! n>r[] b&s twi/$ silk is sewn d[n ) 
/it*es 9 ! direction ( its twi/4 ,?is is
 m pla9ly se5 9 ! upp] ( ! two b&s1 :]e 
! slop+ /it*es are light] 9 col\r ?an ! 
cord sewn d[n4  ,illu/ration3 #eb4      

,,c\*+ ,,sampl]4  ,*>act]i/ic use is    
made ( r puffy c\*+ 9 ! ornam5t ( !     
lady's dress 9 ,miss ,keighley's panel1 
,illu/ration #fa1 :]e x has v mu* !     
ri*ness ( embroid]y 9 se$ pe>ls4  ,x 0 a
 common practice 9 ,g]many 9 ! #af?     
c5tury to "w 9 solid c\*+ ^u clo?1      
employ+ a twi/$ ?read & sew+ x ) /it*es 
9 ! direction ( ! twi/1 s t at fir/     
sight "o does n recognise x z c\*+4 ,x  
looks l r co>se /it*+ 9 ! direction ( ! 
=ms1 & expresses %ad+ v well4 ,! clo?   
gr\nd acc\nts1 p]haps1 = ! *oice (      
me?od3 ! mat]ial is n o!rwise a pleasant
 "o to embroid] ^u4  ,a r e>li] ,g]man  
me?od 0 to c\* 9 p>allel l9es ( :ite ^u 
:ite l951 & s get relief & texture b no 
modell+1 ?\gh ! draw+ 0 help$ by v>y+ ! 
direction ( ! p>allel l9es4  ,! entire  
surface ( a l95 gr\nd 0 sometimes cov]$ 
) c\*$ ?reads ( silk or f9e wool--"s ( x
 9 v]tical & horizontal l9es1 "s ( x 9 !
 direction ( ! patt]n4 ,?is1 aga91 0 a  
,g]man practice1 z may be se5 9 !       
,hilde%eim ,cope at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4      

,all-ov] c\*+ may be us$ ) advantage to 
r5ew ! gr\nd ( embroid]y s worn z to be 
unsightly2 & is m la/+ ?an laid-"w = !  
purpose4 ,x is labori\s to d1 b m       
satisfactory :5 done ?an rem\nt+2 & "o  
or ! o!r is a necessity sometimes4 ,!   
effect ( age is1 up to a c]ta9 po9t1    
pleas+3 rags are n4  ,illu/ration3 #ec4 
,,c\*+ ,,9 ,,loop$ ,,?reads4  ,c\*+1    
h[ev] 7except ) gold71 0 m commonly us$ 
= outl9+1 & is q peculi>ly suit$ to give
 a firm l9e4 ,a beautiful example (     
outl9e "w 9 col\r$ silk ^u :ite l95 is  
pictur$ 9 ,illu/ration #ij1 9 :i* ! l9es
 ( delicate ,r5aissance arabesque are   
p]fectly pres]v$4 ,! r>e practice ( su* 
"w z ?is1 not)/&+ its di/9ction1 is     
p]haps suffici5tly acc\nt$ = by its     
mode/y4 ,x is true1 x wants             
well-consid]$ & def9itely drawn design1 
& !re is no possible fudg+ ) x4         
,illu/ration3 #ed4 ,,rev]se ,,c\*+4  ,! 
value ( a c\*$ cord z an outl9e to /it*+
 7sat9-/it* 9 ?is in/ance7 is %[n 9     
,illu/ration #ia1 9 :i* ! s+ul>ly       

well-s*em$ & well-drawn l9es ( ! ornam5t
 are giv5 ) faultless precision4 ,?is is
 a portion ( an altoge!r admirable frame
 to an altoge!r fooli% picture 9        
ne$lework1 ( :i* a fragm5t only is %[n4 
,! appropriat5ess ( c\*$ cord to !      
outl9+ ( inlay or ( applique is se5 9 ! 
two examples :i* =m ,illu/ration #fb4 ,9
 ! "o 7,a7 x def9es ! cle>-cut          
c\nt]*ange patt]n2 9 ! o!r 7,b71 be+ ( a
 t9t int]m$iate betwe5 ! gr\nd & !      
ornam5t1 x s(t5s ! contra/ betwe5 !m4   
,an int]e/+ te*nical po9t 9 ! design (  
?is la/ is ! way ! cord outl9+ ! leaves 
makes a suffici5tly ?ick /alk1 com+     
toge!r1 z x naturally does1 d\ble at !  
ends ( ! leaves4  ,illu/ration3 #ee4    
,,rev]se ,,c\*+ 7,,back74  ,?is occurs  
aga9 9 ,illu/ration #fc1 :]e ! d\ble    
?reads :i* =m ! /alks1 ?\gh sep>ately   
/it*$ d[n1 are c\*$ aga9 at int]vals by 
b&s cross+ ! two--at ! spr++ ( ! /alks &
 t5drils1 = example1 :]e jo9s inevitably
 occur4 ,! cords =m+ ! c5tral /alk are 9
 "o case loop$4  ,fanta/ic use has (t5  

be5 made ( ! loop+ ( c\*$ cord4 ,!      
,spani% embroid]]s made mo/ ornam5tal   
use ( a wee loop at ! po9ts ( ! leaves  
:]e ! cord mu/ turn2 b ! device ( loop+ 
may easily be us$ to frivol\s purpose4  
,a regul>ly loop$ l9e at once sugge/s   
lace4 ,a p]plex+ ,*9ese practice is to  
c\* f9e cord 9 little loops s close     
toge!r t !y t\*4 ,a surface fill$ 9 aft]
 ?is mann]1 z 9 ! butt]flies on         
,illu/ration #ec1 might pass at fir/    
sight = ,fr5* knots or *a9-/it*3 x is   
really ano!r me?od ( all-ov] c\*+4  ,a  
d\ble c\rse ( c\*+ =ms ! outl9e 9       
,illu/ration #ib1 "o ( filoselle & "o ( 
cord1 sep>ately sewn2 b ! t5drils1 :i*  
are ( silv] ?read1 are sewn d[n bo?     
?reads at a "t ) d\ble /it*es1 v obvi\s 
9 ! illu/ration4 ,ov] ! c\*$ silv]      
?reads :i* =m ! ma9 rib ( ! leaf a      
patt]n is /it*$ 9 silk4  ,a propos (    
c\*+1 m5tion mu/ be made ( a way ( work+
 us$ 9 ! fam\s ,syon ,cope by way (     
backgr\nd1 & figur$ ov]leaf             
7,illu/ration #ed74 ,! gr\nd /uff is    

l951 tw(old1 & x is work$ 9 silk1 :i*   
lies ne>ly all ^u ! surface4 ,! /it*    
runs f po9t to po9t ( ! zigzag patt]n2  
!re x p5etrates ! /uff1 is c>ri$ r\nd a 
?read ( flax laid at ! back ( ! mat]ial1
 & is br\ght to ! surface aga9 ?r\gh !  
hole made by ! ne$le 9 pass+ d[n4 ,t is 
to say1 ! silk5 ?read only dips ?r\gh ! 
l95 at ! po9ts 9 ! patt]n1 & is !re     
caught d[n by a ?read ( flax on !       
"u-surface ( ! l954 ,! rev]se ( ! "w    
7,illu/ration #ee7 %[s a surface ( flax 
?reads c\*$ ) silk1 = :i* reason ! me?od
 may be describ$ z rev]se c\*+4 ,on !   
face x gives an admirable surface diap]1
 flat )\t be+ me*anical4 ,x is easily   
work$ ) a blunt ne$le2 ) a %>p "o !re   
w\ld be a dang] ( splitt+ ! /it*4 ,x is 
a k9d ( "w on :i* two p]sons might be   
employ$1 "o on ei!r side ( ! /uff4      
,,c\*$ ,,gold4   ,9 old5 days silk does 
n appe> to h be5 c\*$ 9 ! ,ea/4 ,on !   
o!r h&1 x 0 ! cu/om to c\* gold ?read 9 
,europe at lea/ z e>ly z ! twelf?       
c5tury2 s t ! me?od 0 probably fir/ us$ 

= gold1 :i*1 except 9 ! =m ( ?9 wire or 
extraord9>ily f9e ?read1 is n q ! ?+ to 
/it* )4 ,besides1 x 0 natural to wi% to 
keep ! preci\s metal on ! surface1 & n  
wa/e x at ! back ( ! /uff4  ,a di/+ui%+ 
feature ab\t gold is t by common cons5t 
x is us$ d\ble & sewn d[n two ?reads at 
a "t4 ,?is is n m]ely an economy ( "w2  
b1 except 9 ! case ( ?ick cords or /rips
 ( gold1 x has a m satisfactory         
effect--:y x is n easy to say4 ,panels  
,a1 ,b1 ,c1 9 ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration    
#ef1 are c\*$ 9 d\ble ?reads1 ,d 9 s+le 
cords4  ,gold c\*+ is !re us$1 z x mo/ly
 is1 to cov] a surface4 ,9 do+ t1 x is  
usual to sew ! ?reads firmly d[n at !   
edges ( ! =ms & cut !m v %>ply (f2 b !y 
may equally well be c>ri$ backw>ds &    
=w>ds across ! face ( ! /uff4 ,! slight 
swell+ ( ! gold ?read :]e x turns gives 
emphasis to ! outl9e2 b ! turn+ wants   
c>efully do+1 & ! gold ?read mu/ n be   
too ?ick4 ,if y use a l>ge ne$le 7to    
cle> ! way = ! ?read71 ! turn+ ( ! gold 
may take place on ! back in/ead ( on !  

face ( ! mat]ial1 b only 9 ! case ( v   
f9e ?read4  ,gold ?reads (t5 want /rok+ 
into position4 ,?is may be done ) :at is
 call$ a pi]ce2 b a good /iletto1 or ev5
 a v l>ge ne$le1 w answ] ! purpose4     
,%>ply po9t$ scissors are indisp5sable4 
,9 solid c\*+ ! /it*es run almo/        
inevitably into patt]n2 & x is cu/om>y1 
!re=e1 to />t ) ! assumption t !y w1 &  
delib]ately to make !m into patt]n--to  
"w !m1 t is to say1 9 v]tical1 diagonal1
 or cross l9es z at ,a1 9 zigzags z at  
,b1 or 9 "s m complicat$ diap] patt]n z 
at ,c1 :]e ! /it*+ is purposely 9       
pron\nc$ col\r1 t ! patt]n may be q     
cle>ly se52 at ,d x has m its prop]     
value1 t ! effect ( x may be bett]      
appreciat$4 ,! patt]n may1 ( c\rse1 be  
help$ by ! col\r ( ! /it*+1 & !re is "s 
art 9 mak+ ! necess>y /it*es into       
appropriate patt]n4  ,illu/ration3 #ef4 
,,c\*$ ,,gold ,,sampl]4  ,9 fact !      
ornam5ti/1 be+ an ornam5ti/1 naturally  
takes advantage ( ! necessity ( /it*+1  
to patt]n 8 metallic surfaces ) diap]1  

us+ (t51 z 9 ! scroll 9 ,illu/ration    
#eg1 a div]sity ( patt]ns1 :i* gives at 
once v>i$ texture & fanciful int]e/ to !
 surface4 ,!re is q an epitome ( little 
diap]s 9 t fragm5t ( ne$lework2 & "o c  
h>dly d\bt t ! embroid]] f\nd x great   
fun to contrive !m4 ,! flat /rips (     
metal emphasis+ ! backs ( ! curves are  
sometimes twi/$ z !y are sewn4  ,! o!r  
diap]s on ! sampl]1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h1 ,j1 #ef1
 are emphasis$ by ! relief giv5 to !m by
 und]ly+ cords1 purposely left b>e 9    
p>ts to %[ ! /ructure4 ,^! und]ly+ cords
 mu/ be firmly sewn on to ! l95 gr\nd1 &
 if ! /it*+ foll[s ! direction ( ! twi/ 
9 !m1 ! r\nd surface is n s likely to be
 r\gh5$ by x4 ,by rights1 ! cords %\ld  
be laid f>!r ap>t ?an 9 ! sampl]1 :]e ! 
attempt to =ce ! effect 7= purposes (   
explanation7 has n prov$ v successful4  
,an inf9ity ( basket patt]ns1 z ^! may  
be call$ 7basket /it*es !y are n71 may  
be devis$ by v>y+ ! int]vals at :i* !   
gold ?reads are sewn d[n1 & ! numb] (   
cords !y cross at a "t4  ,illu/ration3  

#eg4 ,,c\*$ ,,silv]4  ,! c5tral panel ( 
! sampl] 7,e7 %[s a comb9ation ( flat & 
rais$ gold4 ,! outl9e ( ! he>t is cord$2
 ! c5tre ( x is rais$ by /it*+1 fir/ )  
crewel wool & !n ) gold-col\r$ floss    
across t 7x is difficult to prev5t :ite 
/uff+ f %[+ ?r\gh gold74 ,?is gives only
 a h9t ( :at may be done 9 ! way ( rais$
 ornam5t ^u a flat gold gr\nd1 & 0 done 
9 m$iaeval "w4 ,a s+le cord may be sewn 
d[n to make a patt]n 9 relief1 leafage1 
scrollwork1 or :at n1 :i*1 :5 ! surface 
is all work$ ov] ) gold1 has v mu* !    
effect ( gilt gesso4 ,if1 = any reason1 
heavy "w ( ?is k9d is to be done on silk
 or sat91 t mu/ fir/ be back$ ) /rong   
l954  ,9 m$iaeval & *ur* "w g5]ally !   
d\ble ?reads are usually laid close     
toge!r1 =m+1 z 9 ! diap]s on sampl]1 a  
solid surface ( gold2 & t 0 l>gely done 
9 ,ori5tal embroid]y too--9 ,*9ese1 =   
example1 :]e1 h[ev]1 ! ?reads1 in/ead ( 
be+ c\*$ 9 /raight l9es1 foll[ ! outl9es
 ( ! design1 & are work$ r+ )9 r+ until 
! space is fill$1 z 9 ! dragon's face1  

,a1 ,illu/ration #eh4 ,!re is "h1 z 9 ! 
work+ ( 8 body1 a c]ta9 economy ( gold2 
a small am\nt ( ! gr\nd is all[$ to %[  
betwe5 ! l9es ( d\ble gold ?read--n     
en\gh to tell z gr\nd1 b en\gh to give a
 t9t ( ! gr\nd col\r to ! metal4 ,fur!r1
 9 ?is m op5 c\*+ ! direction ( ! l9es (
 c\*+ goes = m ?an 9 solid "w4 ,! patt]n
 made by ! gold ?read is "h n only      
ornam5tal b sugge/ive ( ! scaly body ( !
 creature4 ,x w be se51 too1 h[1 9 !    
work+ ( ! legs1 ! relatively compact    
gold ?reads are kept well )9 ! outl9e1  
by :i* means any?+ l h>%ness ( silh\ette
 is avoid$4  ,illu/ration3 #eh4 ,,c\*$  
,,gold ,,n ,,q ,,solid4  ,t ?is less    
solid mann] 0 n conf9$ to ! f> ,ea/ is  
%[n by ! ,v5etian valance1 ,b1 on ! l[] 
"p ( ! page1 :i* has v mu* ! appe>ance (
 gold lace4  ,a good example ( outl9e   
7s+le ?read7 9 gold is giv5 9           
,illu/ration #ei1 "p ( an ,italian h\s+1
 :i* rem9ds "o bo? 9 effect & 9 design (
 damasc5+1 to :i* x is 9 "s respects    
equival5t2 only1 in/ead ( gold & silv]  

wire beat5 into black iron or /eel1 we h
 gold & silv] ?read sewn on to d>k      
velvet4 ,! design recalls also ! ,fr5*  
bookb9d+s ( ! p]iod ( ,h5ri ,,ii41 9 :i*
 ! tool$ ornam5t 0 precisely ( ?is "*4  
,! resemblance is none ! less t an      
occasional detail is work$ m solidly2 b1
 9 ! ma91 ?is is outl9e "w1 & a         
beautiful example ( x4 ,! art 9 "w ( t  
k9d is1 ( c\rse1 l>gely 9 ! design4     
,gold ?read "w 9 spiral =ms has v mu* ! 
effect ( filagree 9 gold wire4  ,! next 
/ep is :]e ! cords ( gold enclose little
 t\*es ( embroid]y 9 col\r$ floss1 z 9  
,illu/ration #ia4 ,^! h ! value ( s _m  
jewels or bits ( bright enamel4 ,9 fact1
 j z outl9e "w 9 simple gold ?read      
resembles damasc5+ or filagree1 s ?is   
outl9+ ( little spaces ( col\r$ silk    
sugge/s enamel4 ,! cord ( ! embroid]]   
answ]s to ! cloisons ( ! enamell]1 !    
surfaces ( %9+ floss to ! films (       
vitre\s enamel4  ,illu/ration3 #ei4     
,,c\*$ ,,outl9e ,,"w4  ,applique        
embroid]y is con/antly edg$ ) gold or   

silv] ?read4 ,an effective1 if r rude1  
example ( ?is1 ! ?read "h aga9 d\ble1 is
 giv5 9 ,illu/ration #fj4  ,9 c\*+ m ?an
 "o ?read at a "t !re is a difficulty 9 
turn+ ! angles4 ,! ?reads give1 (       
necessity1 only g5tly r\nd$ =ms4 ,to get
 any?+ l a %>p po9t1 y mu/ /op %ort ) ! 
inn] ?read be=e rea*+ ! extreme turn+   
po9t1 & take x up aga9 on y\r way back4 
,:at applies to two ?reads1 applies (   
c\rse /ill m =cibly to ?ree4  ,! col\r )
 :i* gold ?read is sewn is a "q (       
consid]able importance4 ,if ! /it*es are
 close en\gh toge!r to make solid "w1 !y
 give a flu% ( col\r to ! gold4         
,advantage is commonly tak5 ( ?is bo? 9 
m$iaeval & ,ori5tal "w to w>m ! t9t by  
sew+ x d[n ) r$4 ,! ,*9ese w ev5 "w ) a 
deep] & a pal] r$ to get two copp]y     
%ades4 ,:ite /it*+ pales ! gold1 yell[  
modifies x lea/1 gre5 cools x1 & blue   
makes x gre5]4 ,! clos] ! /it*es1 !     
deep] ! t9t1 ( c\rse4  ,illu/ration3    
#fj4 ,,applique--,,sat9 ,,on ,,velvet4  
,y c get ?us v>i\s %ades ( gold out ( ! 

same ?read1 & ev5 gradation f "o to     
ano!r1 z may be se5 9 a great deal (    
,spani% "w ( ! #af? c5tury1 9 :i* ! gold
 ornam5t is (t5 q delicately %ad$ f     
yell[i% gold to ruddy copp] on ! "o h&1 
& to bronzy gre5 on ! o!r4 ,simil> use  
may be made ( v>i-col\r$ silks 9 c\*+   
:ite or o!r cord2 b gold reflects !     
col\r mu* bett] ?an silk1 & gives mu* m 
subtle effects4  ,! ,flem+s & ,italians 
( ! e>ly ,r5aissance w5t fur!r4 ,!y _h a
 way ( lay+ ?reads ( gold & sew+ !m s   
closely ov] ) col\r$ silk t 9 _m p>ts x 
q hid ! gold4 ,only 9 proportion z !y   
want$ to light5 ! col\r ( ! drap]ies 9  
_! pictorial embroid]ies did !y space ! 
/it*es f>!r & f>!r ap>t1 & let ! gold   
gleam ?r\gh4 ,except 9 ! high lights x  
did n pron\nce itself positively4 ,!    
effect is n unlike :at is se5 9 pa9t+s (
 ! primitive s*ool1 :]e ! high lights ( 
! r$ & blue drap]ies are hat*$ ) gold4  
,! practice ( ! embroid]] may be        
rem9isc5t ( t1 or t may be ! orig9 ( !  
primitive pa9t]s' conv5tion4 ,x is m z  

if ! embroid]] want$ to repres5t a      
preci\s tissue1 a /uff %ot ) gold4      
,illu/ration #hj gives "p ( a figure    
work$ 9 ?is way1 reliev$ aga9/ a m gold5
 ar*itectural backgr\nd r5d]$ by ! v    
same d\ble ?reads ( gold :i* run ?r\gh !
 figures4 ,9 ! ar*itecture1 h[ev]1 !y   
are c\*$ 9 /it*es :i* are nev] s ne> z  
to take away f ! effect ( ! gold4 ,! two
 degrees ( obscur+ or cl\d+ gold by     
ov]sew+ are "h %[n 9 mo/ in/ructive     
contra/4 ,! cords1 z usual1 are laid 9  
horizontal c\rses4 ,t 0 ! conv5i5t way (
 work+2 b x result$ 9 a cord$ look1 :i* 
has v mu* ! appe>ance ( tape/ry2 & !re  
is no d\bt t resemblance to tape/ry 0 9 
! end consci\sly s\ght4 ,t ! me?od "h   
employ$ 0 labori\s ne$s no say+2 b x    
gave mo/ beautiful1 if pictorial1       
results4     ,,applique4   ,embroid]y1 x
 has be5 %[n1 is mu* ( x on ! surface ( 
! /uff1 n j ne$le /it*es1 b ! /it*+-on (
 some?+--cord1 gold ?read1 or :atev] x  
may be4 ,& in/ances h be5 giv5 :]e !    
design ( su* "w 0 n m]ely 9 outl9e1 b   

:]e c]ta9 details 7 fill$ 9 ) /it*+4    
,yet ano!r practice1 & "o m /rictly 9   
keep+ ) ! onlay+ ( cord1 0 to onlay !   
solid also1 apply+1 t is to say1 !      
surface col\r also 9 ! =m ( pieces (    
silk cut to %ape4  ,patt]ns ( ?is k9d   
may be conceiv$ z l9e "w develop+ into  
leafy t]m9ations1 ! ,,applique only an  
adjunct to c\*+ 7,illu/ration #fc72 or  
!y may be ?\ght ( z massive "w ek$ out )
 l9e3 ! applique1 t is to say1 ! ma9 ?+1
 ! c\*+ only supplem5t>y 7,illu/ration  
#ib74 ,an int]m$iate k9d is :]e outl9e &
 mass--c\*+ & applique--play p>ts (     
equal importance 9 ! s*eme ( design     
7,illu/ration #fj74  ,c\*$ cord or      
filoselle is useful 9 cov]+ ! raw edge (
 ! onlay1 n s mu* mask+ ! jo9ts z mak+  
!m sightly4  ,applique mu/ be c>efully &
 exactly done1 & is be/ work$ 9 a frame4
 ,x is almo/ z mu* a man's "w z a       
woman's4 ,embroid]y prop] is prop]ly    
woman's "w2 b "h1 z 9 ! case ( tailor+1 
! man comes 94 ,! gett+ ready = applique
 is n ! k9d ( ?+ a woman c d be/4  ,!   

f9i%+ may sometimes be done 9 ! h&1 & v 
bold1 co>se "w may possibly be work$    
?r\gh\t 9 ! h&1 & outl9$ )              
buttonhole-/it* 7*a9-/it* is n s        
appropriate72 b :5 a c\*$ outl9e is     
employ$ x mu/ be done 9 a frame1 &1     
inde$1 "w ) any pret5sions to f9i% is   
inv>iably begun & f9i%$ 9 ! frame4      
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,,applique  ,to "w  
applique y want1 9 fact1 two frames--"o 
on :i* to m\nt ! mat]ial to be          
embroid]$1 & ano!r on :i* to m\nt !     
mat]ial to be appli$4 ,! back+ 9 ea*    
case %\ld be ( smoo? holl&4 ,?is is     
/ret*$ on to ! frame1 & !n pa/$ ) /iff  
/>* or :at n2 ! silk or velvet is laid  
on to x & /rok$ ) a s(t rag until x     
adh]es1 & is left to dry g5tly4 ,:5 dry1
 ! outl9es ( ! complete design are trac$
 ^u ! "o1 & ^? ( ! details to be appli$ 
^u ! o!r4 7,y may pa/e1 ( c\rse1 silks (
 two or ?ree col\rs ^u "o back+ = ?is47 
,! /uff to be appli$ is !n loos5$ f its 
frame1 ! details are cleanly cut out )  
scissors1 or1 bett] /ill1 a knife 79    

ei!r case %>p71 & transf]r$ to _! place 
9 ! design on ! o!r frame4 ,!re !y are  
kept 9 position by %ort /eel p9s plant$ 
upright into ! /uff until y are sure !y 
fit1 & !n tack$ firmly d[n1 ) c>e t !   
/it*es are su* z w be q cov]$ by ! f9al 
c\*+1 *a9 /it*1 or :atev] is to be y\r  
outl9e4  ,9 ! case ( silk or o!r        
delicate mat]ial1 peculi> c>e mu/ be    
tak5 t ! pa/e is n moi/ en\gh to        
p5etrate ! /uff2 b an exp]i5c$ work] has
 no fe> ( t4  ,a firm outl9e is a       
condition ( applique1 & c\*$ cord       
fulfils x mo/ p]fectly4 ,mu* dep5ds ^u a
 ta/eful & tactful *oice ( col\r = x4 ,y
 fatt5 y\r patt]n by outl9+ x ) a col\r 
:i* goes ) x 7,illu/ration #fb1 ,b74 ,y 
?9 x by "o :i* goes into ! gr\nd4 ,v    
subtle use may be made ( a d\ble outl9e 
or ( a cord$ l9e ^u c\*$ floss4 ,!re is 
a d\ble outl9e to ! ornam5t 9           
,illu/ration #ib3 ! inn] "o next to !   
yell[ sat9 applique is ( gold1 ! out] "o
 next ! crimson velvet gr\nd is ( :ite  
sewn ) pale blue4 ,?is gives emphasis to

 ! bold =ms ( ! leafage4 ,! mid-rib !re 
is ( silv] c\*+2 ! m9or ve9+s are /it*$ 
9 silk1 & are r insignificant4          
,illu/ration3 #fa4 ,,applique ,,panel   
,,by ,,miss ,,keighley4  ,! less !re is 
( extra /it*+ on applique ! bett] z a   
rule4 ,x di/urbs ! bread?1 :i* is s     
valuable a *>act]i/ic ( onlay4 ,9 no    
case is mu* mix+ ( me?ods to be desir$2 
b if applique is to be supplem5t$1 x _h 
be/ be ) c\*+1 :i* is n s mu* /it*+ z   
/it*$ d[n1 itself ano!r =m ( appli$ "w4 
,applique ( itself is n1 ( c\rse1 adapt$
 to pictorial "w1 b t 9 association )   
judici\s /it*+ & c\*+ x may be us$ to   
admirable decorative purpose 9 figure   
design is %[n by ,miss ,mabel           
,keighley's panel1 ,illu/ration #fa4    
,:at an arti/ may d dep5ds ^u ! arti/4  
,miss ,keighley's panel indicates ! use 
t may be made ( texture 9 ! /uff onlaid4
  ,applique is especially appropriate to
 bold *ur* "w1 fulfill+ p]fectly t      
condition ( legibility s desirable 9 "w 
necess>ily se5 (t5e/ f af>4 ,broadly    

design$1 x may be z f9e 9 its way z a   
piece ( m$iaeval /a9$ glass1 & x gives  
to silk & velvet _! true wor?4 ,! patt]n
 may be readable z f> (f z y c di/+ui%  
col\r4  ,illu/ration3 #fb4 ,a4          
,,c\nt]*ange4 ,b4 ,,applique4  ,applique
 "w is ?\ght by "s to be an inf]ior k9d 
( embroid]y1 :i* x is n4 ,x is n a l[] b
 ano!r k9d ( ne$lework1 9 :i* m is made 
( ! /uff ?an ( ! /it*+4 ,9 x ! craft ( !
 ne$lework] is n c>ri$ to its limit2 b1 
on ! o!r h&1 x makes great dem&s ^u     
design4 ,y _c beg9 by j ?r[+ ab\t sprays
 ( natural fl[]s4 ,x calls p]emptorily =
 treatm5t--by :i* te/ ! decorative arti/
 /&s or falls4 ,effective x mu/ be2     
co>se x may be2 vulg> x %\ld n be2      
trivial x c h>dly be2 m]e prett9ess is  
beyond its scope2 b x l5ds itself to    
dignity ( design & nobility ( treatm5t4 
,( c\rse1 x is n popul>4  ,a usual =m ( 
applique is 9 sat9 ^u velvet4 ,velvet on
 sat9 7,b1 ,illu/ration #fb7 is         
comp>atively r>e2 b x may be v          
beautiful1 ?\gh !re is a dang] t x may  

look l weav+4  ,silk ^u silk 7figur$    
damask7 is %[n 9 ,illu/ration #fc1      
design$ to be se5 f a ne>] po9t ( view1 
& less pron\nc$ 9 patt]n accord+ly4 ,!  
/rap "w1 appli$ 9 ribbon1 is brok5 by   
cross /it*es 9 c\ples1 :i* take away f !
 sev]ity ( ! l9es4 ,! grape bun*es are  
onlaid1 ea* 9 "o piece ( silk1 ! =ms ( !
 sep>ate grapes express$ by c\*+4 ,!    
,fr5* knots 9 ! c5tre ( ! grapes add    
greatly to ! ri*ness ( ! surface4 ,!    
leaves are 9 "o piece4 ,x w\ld h be5    
possible to use two or ?ree1 jo9+ !m at 
! ve9s4  ,illu/ration3 #fc4             
,,applique--,,silk ,,on ,,silk ,,damask4
  ,! application ( lea!r to velvet1 z 9 
,illu/ration #id1 all[s modification 9 !
 way ( execution1 & ( design adapt$ to  
x4 ,lea!r does n fray1 & ne$s1 !re=e1 no
 sew+ ov] at ! edge1 b only sew+ d[n1   
:i* may be done1 z 9 ?is case1 well )9 !
 edge ( ! mat]ial1 giv+ ! effect ( a    
d\ble outl9e4 ,! ,*9ese d small "w 9    
l951 mak+ simil> use ( ! /it*+ )9 !     
outl9e1 b turn+ ! cut edge ( ! /uff "u2 

x w\ld n d to leave x raw4 ,on a bold]  
scale1 b 9 precisely ! same mann]1 is   
embroid]$ ! wond]ful t5t ( ,francois    
,i]41 tak5 at ! battle ( ,pavia1 & n[ 9 
! ,arm\ry at ,madrid--obvi\sly ,arab "w4
 ,some?+ ( ! k9d 0 done also 9 ,morocco1
 :i* po9ts to lea!r "w z ! possible     
orig9 ( ?is me?od4  ,ano!r +5i\s ,*9ese 
notion is to sew d[n little five-petall$
 fl[]s 7turn$ "u at ! edges7 ) long /am5
 /it*es radiat+ f a c5tral eye ( knots4 
,,inlay1 ,,mosaic1 ,,cut-,,"w4   ,a /ep 
beyond ! process ( onlay+ is ,,inlay1   
:]e "o mat]ial is n laid on to ! o!r1 b 
into x1 bo? be+ p]haps back$ by a common
 mat]ial4 ,! process is1 9 fact1        
precisely analog\s to t inlay ( brass & 
tortoise%ell :i* goes by ! "n ( its     
inv5tor1 ,b\le4 ,! "w is difficult1 b   
?or\gh4 ,x does n recomm5d itself to ^? 
:o want to get effect *eaply4 ,! process
 is suit$ only to close-textur$ /uffs1  
su* z clo?1 :i* d n fray4  ,sid5ote3    
,,to ,,"w ,,inlay4  ,! mat]ials are n   
pa/$ on to l951 z 9 ! case ( applique4  

,! clo? to be inlaid is plac$ ^u ! o!r1 
& bo? are cut ?r\gh ) "o action ( !     
knife1 s t ! p>ts _c b fit4 ,! coh]5t   
piece ( mat]ial 7! gr\nd1 say1 ( !      
patt]n7 is !n laid ^u a piece ( /rong   
l95 already 9 a frame2 ! vacant spaces 9
 x are fill$ up by pieces ( ! o!r /uff1 
& all is tack$ d[n 9 place4 ,t done1 !  
"w is tak5 out ( ! frame1 & ! edges sewn
 toge!r4 ,! back+ c !n1 if necess>y1 be 
remov$2 & 9 ,ori5tal "w x g5]ally 04    
,inlay l5ds itself mo/ invit+ly to      
,,c\nt]*ange 9 design1 z se5 9 ! /ole at
 ,a1 ,illu/ration #fb4 ,light & d>k1    
gr\nd & patt]n1 are !re id5tical4 ,y _c 
say ei!r is gr\nd2 ea* =ms ! gr\nd to ! 
o!r4 ,& f ! m]e fact ( ! c\nt]*ang+ y   
ga!r t x is inlaid1 & n onlaid4         
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,,c\nt]*ange4       
,prior to inlay+ 9 mat]ials :i* are at  
all likely to fray1 y fir/ back !m )    
pap]1 ?9 b t\gh1 firmly pa/$2 !n1 hav+  
tack$ ! two toge!r1 & p9n$ !m )         
draw+-p9s on to a bo>d1 y slip betwe5 x 
& ! /uff a %eet ( glass1 & ) a v %>p    

knife 7kept %>p by an oil/one at h&7 cut
 out ! patt]n4 ,:at 0 cut out ( "o      
mat]ial has only to be fitt$ into ! o!r1
 & sewn toge!r z be=e1 & y h two pieces 
( inlaid "w--:at is ! gr\nd 9 "o =m+ !  
patt]n 9 ! o!r1 & vice v]sa4 ,by ?is    
+5i\s means !re is absolutely no wa/e ( 
/uff4 ,y get1 moreov]1 almo/ inv>iably a
 broad & dignifi$ effect3 ! process does
 n l5d itself to triviality4 ,x 0 us$ by
 ! ,italians1 & m especially by !       
,spani>ds ( ! ,r5aissance1 :o borr[$ !  
idea1 ( c\rse1 f ! ,arabs4              
,illu/ration3 #fd4 ,,inlay ,,9 ,,col\r$ 
,,clo?s4  ,9 ,india !y /ill inlay 9 clo?
 mo/ m>vell\sly1 n only c\nt]*ang+ !    
patt]n1 b inlay+ ! inlays ) small]      
patt]nwork1 ?us comb9+ great simplicity 
( effect ) wond]ful m9ut5ess ( detail4  
,!y mask ! jo9s ) *a9-/it*1 ! col\r ( x 
artfully *os5 ) reg>d to ! two col\rs ( 
! clo? x divides or jo9s4 ,fur!r1 !y (t5
 pat* toge!r pieces ( ?is k9d ( inlay4  
,inlay itself is a sort ( ,,pat*work4 ,y
 cut pieces out ( y\r clo?1 & pat* x )  

pieces ( ano!r col\r1 cov]+ ! jo9s      
p]haps1 z on ,illu/ration #fd1 ) *a9    
/it*1 :i* gives x "s resemblance to     
cloisonne enamel1 ! cloisons be+ (      
*a9-/it*4  ,:]e !re is no "o gr\nd /uff 
to be pat*$1 b a numb] ( v>i-col\r$     
pieces ( /uff are sewn toge!r1 !y =m a  
v]itable ,mosaic1 rem9d+ "o1 9 col\r$   
/uffs1 ( :at ! m$iaeval glazi]s did 9   
col\r$ glass4 ,admirable h]aldic "w 0   
done 9 ,g]many by ?is me?od2 & x is /ill
 employ$ = flag mak+4 ,! /uffs us$ %\ld 
be z ne>ly z possible ( "o sub/ance4 ,9 
pat*work ( loosely-textur$ mat]ial ea*  
sep>ate piece ( /uff may be cut l>ge1   
turn$ 9 at ! edge1 & ov]sewn on ! wrong 
side4  ,illu/ration3 #fe4 ,,cut-,,"w ,,9
 ,,l954  ,! relation ( ,,cut-,,"w to    
inlay is cle>--9 fact1 ! "o is ! fir/   
/ep t[>ds ! o!r4 ,y h only to /op %ort (
 ! actual inlay+1 & y h cut-"w4 ,fill up
 ! p>ts cut out 9 ,illu/ration #fe )    
col\r$ /uff1 & x w\ld be inlay4 ,!      
ne$lewoman has pref]r$ to sew ov] ! raw 
edges ( ! /uff1 & give u a p]fect piece 

( ,,fretwork 9 l954 ,x is "p ( ! game 9 
cut-"w to make ! fret coh]5t1 :ole 9    
itself4 ,! design %\ld tell its own     
tale4 ,ties ( buttonhole-/it*1 or :at n1
 are n necess>y1 provid$ ! design] kn[s 
h[ to plan a fret patt]n4 ,_!           
introduction br+s ! "w ne>] to lace ?an 
embroid]y4 ,! sew+-ov] may be 9         
*a9-/it*1 sat9-/it* 7z 9 ,illu/ration   
#fe71 or 9 buttonhole-/it*--:i* la/ is  
/ronge/4  ,z1 9 ! case ( applique1      
inlay1 & mosaic1 an embroid]$ outl9e is 
usually necess>y to cov] ! jo91 s 9 !   
case ( cut-"w sew+-ov] is necess>y to   
keep ! edges f fray+4 ,x may sometimes  
be advisable to supplem5t ?is outl9+ by 
fur!r /it*+ to express ve9+1 or give o!r
 m9ute details--j z ! glasswork]1 :5 he 
c\ld n get detail small en\gh by means (
 glaz+1 _h rec\rse to pa9t+ to help him 
out4 ,b !re is dang] 9 call+ 9          
auxili>ies4 ,x is be/ to design ) a view
 to ! me?od ( "w to be employ$1 & to    
keep )9 its limits4 ,to worry ! surface 
( appli$1 inlaid1 or cut /uff ) f9nik9  

/it*]y1 is practically to confess ei!r !
 inadequacy ( ! design or ! fidget9ess (
 ! work]4 ,x %\ld ne$1 z a rule1 no su* 
enri*m5t4     ,,embroid]y ,,9 ,,relief4 
,embroid]y be+ "w ^u a /uff1 x is       
inevitably rais$1 h[ev] imp]ceptibly1   
above ! surface ( x4 ,b !re is a *>m 9 !
 unev5ness ( surface & texture ?us      
produc$2 & ! aim has consequ5tly (t5 be5
 to make ! diff]5ce ( level betwe5      
gr\nd-/uff & embroid]y m appreciable by 
,,und]lay or padd+ ( "s k9d4 ,! abuse ( 
?is k9d ( ?+ ne$ n bl9d u to !          
advantages x (f]s4  ,!re are v>i\s ways 
( rais+ embroid]y1 ! pr9cipal ( :i* are 
illu/rat$ on ! sampl] ov]leaf4          
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,a 7#ff74  ,9 sprig 
,a ! und]lay is ( closely-wov5 clo?1    
d>k] 9 col\r ?an w\ld be advisable      
except = ! purpose ( %[+ :at x is3 x is 
z well 9 ! ord9>y way to *oose a clo? m 
or less ( ! col\r ! embroid]y is to be4 
,! clo? is cut ) %>p scissors c>efully  
to %ape1 b a little )9 ! outl9e1 & pa/$ 
on to ! l954 ,:5 p]fectly dry1 x is     

work$ ov] ) ?ick cord$ silk c\*$ 9 !    
ord9>y way4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,b4  ,!
 rais$ l9e at ,b reveals ! way ! /em 9  
,illu/ration #hf 0 work$4 ,two cords (  
smoo? /r+ 7macrame1 = example7 are twi/$
 & tack$ 9 place4 ,ov] ?is floss is     
work$ 9 close sat9-/it*4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to
 ,,"w ,c4  ,9 sprig ,c ! und]lay is (   
p>*m5t1 lightly /it*$ 9 place4 ,! use ( 
a d\ble und]lay 9 p>ts gives additional 
relief4 ,! embroid]y ^u ?is 79 slightly 
twi/$ silk7 is 9 sat9-/it*4  ,sid5ote3  
,,to ,,"w ,d4  ,! leaf %apes at ,d are  
padd$ ) cotton wool1 cut out z ne>ly z  
possible to ! %ape requir$1 & tack$ d[n 
) f9e cotton4 ,!y are !n work$ ov] )    
floss 9 sat9-/it*4 ,! /alks are n padd$ 
) cotton wool1 b fir/ work$ ) crewel    
wool1 :i*1 be+ s(t & ela/ic1 =ms an     
excell5t gr\nd = work+ ov] 9 floss silk4
  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,e4  ,9 work+ a   
/alk l t at ,e1 y fir/ lay d[n a d\ble  
lay] ( s(t1 ?ick cotton1 & !n "w ov] x )
 flatt] cotton 7made expressly = padd+7 
9 slant+ sat9-/it*4 ,?ree ?reads ( smoo?

 r\nd silk are !n atta*$ to "o side ( ! 
padd+ & c>ri$ diagonally across to ! o!r
 side1 :]e !y are sewn d[n ) /rong ?read
 ( ! same col\r close to ! und]lay1 s t 
! /it*es may n %[4 ,!y are !n br\ght    
back to ! side f :i* !y />t$1 sewn d[n1 
& return$ aga91 & s backw>ds & =w>ds to 
! end4 ,! cross+ ?reads make a sort (   
patt]n1 & x is a po9t ( good workman%ip 
t !y %\ld cross regul>ly4 ,su* patt]n is
 m obvi\s :5 ?reads ( ?ree diff]5t %ades
 ( col\r are employ$4 ,?reads ( twi/$   
silk may1 ( c\rse1 be equally well us$  
?is way )\t padd+ und]nea?4             
,illu/ration3 #ff4 ,,rais$ ,,"w         
,,sampl]4  ,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,f4  ,9  
sprig ,f ! und]lay is ( c>dbo>d1 pa/$ on
 to ! l954 ,x is work$ ov] ) purse silk1
 to & fro across ! =ms1 & sewn d[n at ! 
m>g9 ) f9] silk4 ,?is is a me?od ( "w   
(t5 employ$ :5 gold ?read is us$4       
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,g4  ,9 sprig ,g !  
und]lay or /uff+ is ( /r+1 sewn d[n )   
/it*es always 9 ! direction ( ! twi/4 ,x
 is work$ ov] ) floss 9 sat9-/it*4      

,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,"w ,h4  ,9 sprig ,h !  
und]work consi/s ( /it*+ 9 s(t cotton1  
ov] :i* ?ick silk is embroid]$ 9        
bullion-/it*4 ,! rule is to "w ! fir/   
/it*+ 9 su* a direction t ! surface "w  
crosses x at "r angles4 ,! small leaf is
 work$ ov] ) f9e purse silk 9 sat9-/it*1
 :i* is us$ also = ! /alk4  ,9 ! small] 
sampl] ( laid-"w1 ,illu/ration #ej1 !   
broad /em is twice und]laid ) crewel1   
excell5t = ?is s(t sort ( padd+1 on     
acc\nt ( its ela/icity4 ,! leaves h !re 
only "o lay] ( und]/it*+4  ,rais$ "w 9  
:ite ^u :ite is (t5 us$ = purposes :i*  
make x inevitable t soon] or lat] ! "w w
 be wa%$4 ,t is a consid]ation :i* !    
embroidress mu/ n leave out ( acc\nt4 ,9
 any case1 "w ov] /it*]y is m durable   
?an ov] loose padd+ su* z cotton wool4  
,illu/ration3 #fg4 ,,rais$ ,,"w ,,%[+   
,,und]lay4  ,! #ae? c5tury "w reproduc$ 
9 ,illu/ration #fg is 9 flax ?read on   
l951 & ! und]lay 7laid b>e 9 ! topmo/   
fl[]7 is ( /iff l951 sewn d[n1 n at !   
m>g9s z 9 ! case ( ! p>*m5t on ! sampl] 

7,illu/ration #ff71 b by a r[ ( /it*+ up
 ! c5tre ( ea* petal4 ,! ve9s ( ! leaves
 9 ,illu/ration #hh are padd$ )         
embroid]y cotton & work$ ov] )          
filo-floss4 ,! leaves !mselves are n    
padd$1 ?\gh ! sew+ d[n ( ! ve9s ^u !m1 z
 well z ! fact t !y are appli$ on to !  
velvet gr\nd1 gives "s appe>ance (      
relief4     ,,rais$ ,,gold4   ,our      
sampl] ( rais$ "w is done 9 silk4       
,und]lay+ is m (t5 us$ to raise "w 9    
gold1 to :i* 9 mo/ respects x is be/    
suit$4 ,! me?ods %[n 9 ! sampl] w\ld    
answ] almo/ equally well = gold1 except 
t work+ 9 gold "o w\ld n at ,h 7#ff7 use
 bullion-/it*1 b bullion1 fir/ cov]+ !  
und]lay ( /it*+ ) smoo?ly-laid yell[    
floss4  ,,bullion consi/s ( closely     
coil$ wire4 ,x is made by w9d+ f9e wire 
tightly & closely r\nd a core ( /\t]    
wire4 ,:5 ?is c5tral core ( wire is     
)drawn1 y h a long holl[ tube ( spirally
 twi/$ wire4 ,?is ! embroidress cuts    
into %ort l5g?s z requir$1 & sews on to 
! silk--z %e w\ld a long bead or bugle4 

,its use is illu/rat$ at ,a 9           
,illu/ration #ea1 :]e ! /ems ( triple   
gold cord are ti$ d[n at int]vals by    
clasps ( bullion1 & ! leaves1 aga91 are 
fill$ 9 ) ! same4  ,x 0 ! m$iaeval      
fa%ion to encru/ ! robes ( k+s &        
pontiffs ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones m\nt$ 9
 gold3 ! e>ly ,byzant9e =m ( cr[n 0     
practically a velvet cap1 on to :i* 7   
sewn plaques ( gorge\s enamel & m\nt$   
/ones4 ,:5 to su* "w embroid]y 0 add$1 x
 0 n unnatural t x %\ld vie ) ! gold    
sett+4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 its design 0  
(t5 only a translation into ne$lework ( 
! =ms prop] to ! goldsmi?4  ,yet m op5ly
 9 rivalry ) goldsmi?s' "w 0 "s ( !     
embroid]y ( ! ,r5aissance1 9 :i* !      
idea--a mo/ mi/ak5 "o1 ( c\rse--seems to
 h be5 to imitate beat5 metal4 ,?is l$  
inevitably to excessively high relief 9 
gold embroid]y4 ,y may see 9 #ag? c5tury
 *ur* "w ! height to :i* relief c be    
c>ri$1 & ! dep? to :i* ecclesia/ical    
ta/e c s9k4  ,! ,spani>ds 71 p]haps1 !  
greate/ s9n]s 9 ?is respect1 seek+1 z !y

 did1 ri*ness at all co/2 b x mu/ be    
confess$ t1 9 ! #af? c5tury at lea/1 !y 
produc$ mo/ gorge\s results3 !re is 9 ! 
treasury ( ! ca!dral at ,tol$o an alt>  
frontal 9 gold1 silv]1 & coral1 & a yet 
m beautiful mantle ( ! ,virg9 9 silv] & 
pe>ls ^u a gold gr\nd1 :i* make "o lo?  
to dogmatise4  ,illu/ration3 #fh4       
,,rais$ ,,gold4  ,! preci\sness ( gold &
 silv]1 po9ts1 9 ! nature ( ?+s1 to _!  
use = *ur* ve/m5ts & ! l2 & high relief 
gives1 no d\bt1 value to ! metal2 b !   
consid]ation ( its intr9sic value leads 
quickly to display4 ,! arti/ic value (  
gold is n s mu* t x looks gorge\s z t x 
glorifies ! col\r caught1 s to speak1 9 
its me%es4  ,admitt+ t !re is reason =  
relief 9 gold embroid]y--x cat*es !     
light z flat gold does n--"o feels t ! v
 slighte/ modell+ is usually en\gh4     
,ref]5ce 0 made 7page #acf7 to ! effect 
( gilt gesso obta9$ 9 rais$ gold ?read3 
t really is ab\t ! degree ( relief x is 
safe to adopt 9 gold embroid]y1 ! relief
 t is readily got by lay+ on gesso ) a  

bru%1 n c>v+ or modell+ x2 & !          
*>act]i/ically blunt =ms got by t means 
repeat !mselves :5 y "w ) ! ne$le4  ,!re
 is ample relief 9 ! gold embroid]y on  
,illu/rations #fh & #hf4 ,! fir/ ( ^!   
%[s bo? flat & rais$ "w3 ! latt]        
illu/rates n only v>i\s degrees (       
relief1 b sev]al ways ( und]lay+4 ,x    
sc>cely ne$s po9t+ out t ! flatt] s]rat$
 leaves are work$ ov] p>*m5t or pap]1 & 
! puffy p>ts ( ! fl[]s ov] s(t] padd+4  
,allusion has already be5 made 7page    
#aei7 to ! way ! /alk is work$ ov] twi/$
 cords1 z on ! sampl]1 ,illu/ration #ff4
 ,! patt]ns 9 :i* ! gold is work$ d n   
tell q s pla9ly "h z on ,illu/ration    
#fh1 :]e ! basket patt]n is m pron\nc$4 
,9 ! /alk !re flat gold wire is us$1 &  
aga9 9 ! brok5 surface t[>ds ! top ( !  
plate4  ,,spangles ( gold may be us$ )  
admirable effect1 at ! risk1 p]haps1 ( a
 r t9selly look2 b t has be5 (t5 mo/    
skilfully avoid$ bo? 9 m$iaeval "w & 9  
,ori5tal4 ,9 ,india great & v cunn+ use 
is made ( spangles1 by ! ,p>sees 9      

p>ticul>1 :o1 by ! way1 embroid] ) gold 
wire4  ,gold foil may be cut to any %ape
 & sewn on to embroid]y1 b spangles take
 ma9ly "o ( two %apes1 be/ di/+ui%$ z   
disc-l & r+-l4 ,! discs are flat1 pi]c$ 
9 ! c5tre1 & sewn d[n usually ) two or  
?ree radiat+ /it*es 7,a1 ,illu/ration   
#ea1 & ,illu/ration #fg74 ,! r+s may be 
atta*$ by a s+le ?read4 ,!y c easily be 
made to ov]lap l fi% scales1 & mo/      
elaborately emboss$ pictures h be5 work$
 9 ?is way4 ,!re is a ve/m5t 9 ! ca!dral
 at ,granada :i* is a m>vel to see2 b n 
! ?+ to d1 surely4  ,relief is easily   
ov]done1 9 figure "w s easily t "o may  
say safety is to be f\nd only 9 ! mo/   
delicate relief4 ,to make figures look  
r\nd is to make !m look /uff$4 ,t /uffy 
images are to be f\nd 9 m$iaeval *ur* "w
 is only too true4 ,9 ,go?ic art "o f9ds
 ?is qua9t1 p]haps1 b x is p]il\sly ne> 
! laughable4 ,! po9t ( ! ridicul\s is   
pla9ly ov]pass$ 9 ,engli% "w ( ! #ag?   
c5tury1 :i* deg5]ates at la/ into m]e   
doll "w--! dolls duly /uff$ & dress$ 9  

mo/ *ildi% fa%ion1 _! drap]y1 9 actual  
folds1 project+4 ,"s really admirable   
ne$lework 0 wa/$ ^u ?is k9d ( ?+1 :i*   
has absolutely no value1 except z an    
object-lesson 9 ! frivolity ( ! ,/u>ts &
 _! on-hang]s4     ,,quilt+4   ,a mo/   
legitimate use ( padd+ is 9 ! =m (      
,,quilt+1 :]e x s]ves a useful z well z 
an ornam5tal purpose4 ,to quilt is to   
/it* "o clo? ^u ano!r ) some?+ s(t      
betwe5 7or )\t any?+ betwe574 ,our ^w   
c\nt]pane is d]iv$ f contre-po9ct1 a    
corruption ( ! ,fr5* ^w = back-/it*1 or 
quilt+ /it*1 z x 0 call$4  ,if y m]ely  
/it* two ?icknesses ( /uff toge!r 9 a   
patt]n1 su* z t on ,illu/ration #fi1 !  
/uff betwe5 ! /it*es has a t5d5cy to    
rise3 ! two lay]s ( /uff d n lie close  
except :]e !y are held toge!r by !      
/it*+1 & a v pleasantly unev5 surface   
results4 ,?is effect is enhanc$ if      
betwe5 ! two /uffs !re is a lay] (      
some?+ s(t4 ,if1 n[1 y keep d[n !       
gr\ndwork ( y\r design by comp>atively  
frequ5t /it*es diap]+ x1 y get a patt]n 

9 relief1 m or less1 accord+ to !       
sub/ance ( y\r padd+4  ,ano!r way is to 
pad ! patt]n only1 z 9 ,illu/ration #gj1
 :]e ! padd+ is ( s(t cord4             
,illu/ration3 #fi4 ,,quilt+1 ,,done ,,9 
,,*a9-,,/it* ,,f ,,! ,,back4  ,a cunn+  
way ( padd+ is fir/ to /it* ! outl9e ( !
 design1 & !n f ! back to ins]t ! /uff+4
 ,y fir/ pi]ce ! /uff ) a /iletto1 &1   
hav+ pu%$ 9 ! cord1 cotton1 or :at n1   
efface z f> z possible ! pi]c+3 ! /uff+ 
has !n n mu* temptation to escape f its 
conf9em5t4  ,! ,p]sians d mo/ elaborate 
quilt+ on f9e :ite l951 :i* !y sew )    
yell[ silk2 b ! patt]n is /uff$ ) cords 
( blue cotton1 ! col\r ( :i* j gr9s     
?r\gh ! :ite suffici5tly to cool x1 & to
 di/+ui% x f ! creamy :ite gr\nd made   
w>m] by ! yell[ /it*+4  ,quilt+ is mo/  
(t5 done 9 :ite ^u col\r1 or 9 "o col\r 
^u :ite4 ,yell[ silk on :ite l95 7z 9 ! 
case ( ,illu/ration #fi7 0 a fav\rite   
comb9ation1 & is always a delicate "o4  
,b !re is no reason :y a v>iety ( col\rs
 %\ld n be us$ 9 a c\nt]pane4 ,:5 y /it*

 d[n ! gr\nd ) col\r$ silk y give x1 (  
c\rse1 col\r z well z flatness4         
,illu/ration3 #gj4 ,,rais$ ,,quilt+4    
,,/it* ,,gr\ps4   ,!re are all sorts (  
ways 9 :i* /it*es might be              
gr\p$3--accord+ to ! ord] ( "t 9 :i*    
hi/orically !y came into use2 accord+ z 
!y are work$ ?r\gh & ?r\gh ! /uff or lie
 mo/ly on its surface2 accord+ z !y are 
conv5i5tly work$ 9 ! h& or necessitate !
 use ( a frame2 & 9 o!r ways too _m to  
m5tion4 ,x is n difficult1 = example1 to
 imag9e a classification accord+ to :i* 
! sat9-/it* 9 ,illu/ration #ga w\ld     
figure z a canvas /it*4  ,9 ! ,sampl]s  
!y are gr\p$ accord+ to _! con/ruction1 
t seem+ to u ! mo/ practical = purposes 
( description4 ,!y might = o!r purposes 
m conv5i5tly be class$ "s o!r way4 ,at  
all ev5ts1 x is helpful to gr\p !m4     
,design] & work] alike w g /raight] to !
 po9t if once !y get cle>ly into _! m9ds
 ! /it*es & _! use1 & ! range ( ea*--:at
 x c d1 :at x c be/ d1 :at x c ill d1   
:at x _c d at all4  ,anyone1 hav+ ma/]$ 

! /it*es & grasp$ _! scope1 c gr\p !m = 
h]self1 say1 into /it*es suit$ 7#a7 to  
l9e "w1 7#b7 to all-ov] "w1 7#c7 to     
%ad+1 & s on4  ,^! %e might aga9        
subdivide4 ,( l9e /it*es1 = example1 "s 
are be/ suit$ = /raight l9es1 o!rs =    
curv$2 "s = broad l9es1 o!rs = n>r[2 "s 
= ev5 l9es1 o!rs = unequal2 "s = outl9+1
 o!rs = ve9+4  ,&1 fur!r1 ( all-ov]     
/it*es "s give a pla9 surface1 o!rs a   
patt]n$ "o2 "s d be/ = flat surfaces1   
o!rs = modell$2 "s look be/ 9 big       
pat*es1 "s answ] only = small spaces4   
,) reg>d to %ad+ /it*es1 !re are v>i\s  
ways 7see ! *apt] on %ad+7 ( giv+       
gradation ( col\r & ( indicat+ relief or
 modell+4  ,"s /it*es1 ( c\rse1 are     
adapt$ to v>i\s uses1 z crewel1 *a91 &  
sat9 /it*es--naturally ! mo/ 9 use4     
,work]s g5]ally end 9 adopt+ c]ta9      
/it*es z _! own4 ,t is all "r1 s long z 
!y d n =get t !re are o!r /it*es :i*    
might on occasion s]ve _! purpose4      
,anyway1 !y %\ld beg9 by kn[+ :at /it*es
 !re are4 ,until !y "k1 & "k too :at ea*

 c d1 !y are h>dly 9 a position to      
det]m9e :i* ( !m w be/ d :at !y want4   
,our ,sampl]s %[ ! use to :i* ! /it*es  
on !m may be put4  ,illu/ration3 #ga4   
,,sat9-,,/it* ,,9 ,,! ,,mak+4  ,by way (
 resume1 x may be add$ t = l9e "w1 m or 
less f9e1 crewel1 *a91 back & rope      
/it*es1 & c\*$ cord are mo/ suitable2   
crewel = long l9es especially1 & rope   
/it* = bo? curv$ & /raight l9es2 = a    
b\nd>y l9e1 buttonhole is mo/ emphatic2 
= broad] l9es1 h]r+-bone1 fea!r1 &      
,ori5tal /it*es answ] bett]2 ladd]-/it* 
has ! advantage ( a firm edge on bo?    
sides ( x4 ,sat9 & *a9 /it*es1 c\*+ &   
lay+1 & basket "w make good b&s1 b are n
 peculi>ly adapt$ to t purpose4  ,=     
cov]+ broad surfaces1 crewel1 *a91 &    
sat9 /it*es 7includ+1 ( c\rse1 :at are  
call$ long-&-%ort & plumage /it*es7 s]ve
 admirably1 z does also d>n+ & laid-"w2 
& = gold ?read1 c\*+4 ,fr5* knots d be/ 
= small surfaces only4 ,! /it*es mo/    
useful = purposes ( %ad+ are m5tion$    
lat] on4  ,no sort ( classification is  

possible until ! numb] ( /it*es has be5 
r$uc$ to ! necess>y few1 & all fancy    
/it*es /ruck out ( ! li/4 ,enquiry %\ld 
also be made into ! title ( ea* /it* to 
! "n by :i* x is kn[n2 & ! names        
!mselves %\ld be br\ght d[n to a m9imum4
  ,r$uce !m to ! fewe/ any ne$lewoman w 
all[1 & !y are /ill1 if n too _m1 m ?an 
are logically requir$4 ,"s ( !m1 too1   
describe n /it*es1 b ways ( us+ a /it*4 
,! t]m long-&-%ort1 x has already be5   
expla9$ 7page #ajj71 has less to d ) a  
p>ticul> /it* ?an its proportion1 & !   
t]m plumage-/it* ref]s m to ! direction 
( ! /it* ?an to ! /it* itself4 ,& s )   
o!r /it*es4 ,x is its oblique direction 
only :i* di/+ui%es /em-/it* f o!r %ort  
/it*es ( ! k9d4 ,runn+1 aga91 am\nts to 
no m ?an proportion+ /it*es to ! me% ( !
 /uff1 & tak+ sev]al ( !m at "o pass+ ( 
! ne$le2 & d>n+ is b r[s ( runn+ side by
 side4 ,! t]m split-/it* describes no   
new /it*1 b a p>ticul> treatm5t to :i* a
 crewel or a sat9 /it* is submitt$4  ,! 
=ego+ summ>ies ( /it*es are only by way 

( sugge/ion1 some?+ to set ! embroidress
 ?9k+ = h]self4 ,%e mu/ *oose h] own    
me?od2 b x w\ld help h]1 ,i ?9k1 to     
s*$ule ! /it*es = h]self accord+ to h]  
own ways & wants4 ,! mo/ suitable /it*  
may n suit e "o4 ,individual pref]5ce & 
individual aptitude c\nt = some?+4 ,x is
 n a "q ( :at is demon/rably be/1 b (   
:at be/ suits y4     ,,"o ,,/it*1 ,,or  
,,_m8   ,! fir/ ?+ to be settl$ ) reg>d 
to ! *oice ( /it* is :e!r to employ "o  
/it* ?r\gh\t1 or a v>iety ( /it*es4 ,mu*
 w dep5d ^u ! effect desir$4 ,good "w   
has be5 done 9 ei!r way2 b "o may safely
 say1 9 ! fir/ place1 t x is z well n to
 introduce v>iety ( /it* )\t good       
cause--!re is safety 9 simplicity--& 9 !
 second1 t /it*es %\ld be *os5 to g     
toge!r1 9 ord] t ! "w may look all ( a  
piece4 ,:5 ! v>i\s /it*es are well *os51
 x is difficult at a glance to di/+ui%  
"o f ano!r4  ,a great v>iety ( /it*es 9 
"o piece ( "w is worry+1 if n bewild]+4 
,x is z well n to use too _m1 to keep 9 
! ma9 to "o or two1 b n to be afraid (  

us+ a ?ird1 or a f\r?1 to d :at ! /it*  
or /it*es ma9ly reli$ ^u _c d4          
,illu/ration3 #gb4 ,,/it*es ,,9         
,,comb9ation4  ,x t5ds also t[>ds       
simplicity ( effect if y use y\r /it*es 
) "s sy/em1 n haphaz>d1 & 9 subord9ation
 "o to ! o!r2 !re mu/ be no qu>rell+    
among !m = sup]iority4 ,y %\ld det]m9e1 
t is to say1 at ! outset1 :i* /it* %all 
be employ$ = fill+1 :i* = outl9e2 or :i*
 = /alks1 :i* = leaves1 & :i* = fl[]s4  
,or1 suppos+ y adopt "o g5]al /it*      
?r\gh\t1 & introduce o!rs1 y %\ld "k :y1
 & make up y\r m9d to employ y\r second 
= emphasis ( =m1 y\r ?ird = contra/ (   
texture1 or = "s o!r q def9ite purpose4 
,x is n possible "h to po9t out 9 detail
 ! sy/em on :i* ! v>i\s examples        
illu/rat$ h be5 work$2 ! read] mu/ worry
 t out = h]self4 ,b "o may j po9t out 9 
pass+ h[ well ! v>i\s /it*es g toge!r 9 
"s few in/ances4  ,no?+ c\ld be m       
h>moni\s1 = example1 ?an ! comb9ation ( 
knot1 *a91 & buttonhole /it*es 9        
,illu/ration #bd2 or ( ladd]1 ,ori5tal1 

h]r+-bone1 & o!r /it*es 9 ,illu/ration  
#gb4 ,aga91 9 ,illu/ration #he ! contra/
 betwe5 sat9-/it* 9 ! bird & c\*$ cord =
 ! cl\d+ is mo/ judici\s1 z is ! knott+ 
( ! bird's cre/4 ,laid floss contra/s1  
aga91 admirably ) c\*$ gold 9           
,illu/rations #dg1 #dh1 #di1 & sat9-/it*
 ) c\*+ 9 ,illu/ration #ia1 :]e ! gold  
is res]v$ ma9ly = outl9e1 b on occasion 
s]ves to emphasise a detail4            
,illu/ration3 #gc4 ,,f9e ,,ne$lework    
,,^u ,,l954  ,c\*$ gold & surface       
sat9-/it* are us$ toge!r aga9 9         
,illu/ration #eh1 ea* = its specific    
purpose4 ,! h>mony betwe5 applique "w & 
c\*+ or *a9-/it* outl9e has be5 allud$  
to already4  ,a dang] to be kept 9 view 
:5 work+ 9 "o /it* only is1 le/ x %\ld  
look l a wov5 textile1 z x might if v   
ev5ly work$4 ,"s k9ds ( embroid]y seem  
h>dly wor? do+ n[adays1 because !y      
sugge/ ! loom4 ,t may be a reason = "s  
complexity ( /it*1 9 :i* lurks t o!r    
dang] ( los+ simplicity & bread?4 ,!    
lace-l appe>ance ( ! ne$lework ^u f9e   

l95 9 ,illu/ration #gc1 results *iefly f
 ! extraord9>y delicacy ) :i* x is done1
 b x owes some?+ also to ! v>iety ( /it*
 & ( /it*-patt]n employ$ 9 x4           
,,outl9e4   ,! use ( outl9e 9 embroid]y 
h>dly ne$s po9t+ out4 ,x is (t5 ! obvi\s
 way ( def9+ a patt]n1 z1 = example1 :]e
 !re is only a fa9t diff]5ce 9 dep? (   
t9t betwe5 ! patt]n & its backgr\nd2 9  
applique "w x is necess>y to mask !     
jo9s2 & x is by itself a delightful     
means ( diap]+ a surface ) n too        
obtrusive patt]n4  ,allusion to ! /it*es
 suitable to outl9e has be5 made already
 7see /it*-gr\ps71 z well z to ! col\r (
 outl9+1 a propos ( applique4 ,x is     
difficult to ov]rate ! importance ( ?is 
"q ( col\r 9 ! case ( outl9e2 b !re are 
no rules to be laid d[n1 except t a     
col\r$ outl9e is ne>ly always pref]able 
to a black "o4 ,! ,g]mans ( ! #af?      
c5tury 7 giv5 to indulg+ 9 black        
outl9es1 & y may see 9 _! "w h[ x h>d5$ 
! effect1 :]eas a col\r$ outl9e may     
def9e )\t h>%ness4 ,! ,spani>ds1 on !   

o!r h&1 realis$ ! value ( col\r1 & w\ld1
 = example1 outl9e gold & silv] ^u a d>k
 gre5 gr\nd 9 r$1 ) admirable effect4 ,a
 d\ble outl9e1 = :i* !re is (t5         
opportunity 9 bold "w1 may be turn$ to  
good acc\nt4 ,among ! successful        
comb9ations :i* come to m9d is an       
applique patt]n 9 yell[ & :ite ^u d>k   
gre51 outl9$ fir/ ) gold cord1 & !n1    
next ! gre51 ) a pal] & bright] gre54   
,ano!r is a patt]n *iefly 9 yell[ ^u    
purple1 outl9$ fir/ ) yell[ c\*$ ) gold1
 & next ! gr\nd ) silv]4 ,9 ! case (    
c\*$ cord or gold1 ! col\r ( ! /it*+    
c\nts also4  ,/it*es f ! edge ( a leaf  
or :at n1 inw>ds1 alt]nately long &     
%ort1 ?\gh !y =m an edge to ! leaf1 are 
n prop]ly outl9+4 ,?is is r a /opp+ %ort
 ( solid "w ?an outl9+1 ?\gh x (t5 goes 
by t "n4  ,! fir/ condition ( a good    
outl9e /it* is t x %\ld be1 z x 71      
supple1 s z to foll[ ! fl[ ( ! =m4 ,at !
 same "t x %\ld be firm4 ,fancy /it*es  
look fussy2 & a spikey outl9e is worse  
?an none at all4  ,!re is absolutely no 

sub/antial gr\nd = ! !ory t outl9es %\ld
 be work$ 9 a /it* n us$ else:]e 9 ! "w4
 ,on ! contr>y1 x is a good rule n to   
introduce extra /it*es into ! "w unless 
!y give some?+ :i* ! /it*es already     
employ$ w n give4 ,! simple/ way is     
always safe/4  ,an outl9e af=ds a ready 
means ( cle>+ up edges2 b x %\ld n be   
look$ ^u m]ely z a device = ! disguise (
 slov5l9ess4 ,unless ! col\r s*eme %\ld 
necessitate an outl9e1 an embroidress1  
sure ( h] skill1 w (t5 pref] n to outl9e
 h] "w1 & to get ev5 ! draw+ l9es )9 !  
patt]n1 by ,,void+4 ,%e w leave1 t is to
 say1 a l9e ( gr\nd-/uff cle> betwe5 !  
petals ( h] fl[]s1 or :at n2 :i* l9e1 by
 ! way1 %\ld be n>r[] ?an x is meant to 
appe>1 z x looks always broad] ?an x is4
 ,x is m difficult1 x mu/ be own$1 ?us  
to "w along two sides ( a l9e (         
gr\nd-/uff ?an to "w a s+le l9e ( /it*+1
 b x is )9 ! compass ( any skill$ work]2
 & skill$ work]s h delight$ 9 void+ ev5 
:5 _! "w 0 on a small scale necessitat+ 
f9e l9es ( void+ 7,illu/rations #ci &   

#dj74  ,9 "w on a bold scale !re is no  
difficulty ab\t x2 & x w\ld be rem>kable
 t x is s seldom us$1 7 x n t ! unc]ta9 
work] likes to h a *ance ( cle>+ up     
ragg$ edges1 & t void+ implies a broad] 
& m dignifi$ treatm5t ( design ?an x is 
! fa%ion to affect4     ,,%ad+4   ,"o   
arrives inevitably at gradation ( col\r 
9 embroid]y2 ! "q is h[ be/ to get x4   
,b1 be=e m5tion+ ! ways 9 :i* x may be  
got1 x seems necess>y to prote/ t %ad+  
is n a matt] ( c\rse4 ,p]fectly         
beautiful "w may be done1 & ought m (t5 
to be done1 9 m]ely flat ne$lework2 !   
gloss ( ! silk & its v>y+ col\r z x     
cat*es ! light accord+ to ! direction ( 
! /it*+1 are q en\gh to prev5t a        
monoton\sly flat effect4  ,/ill1        
embroid]y af=ds su* scope = gradation ( 
col\r1 n1 practically1 to be got by any 
process ( weav+1 t a col\ri/ may well   
revel 9 ! delights ( col\r :i* silks (  
v>i\s dyes all[4 ,& s long z col\r is ! 
end 9 view !re is n mu* dang] t a       
col\ri/ w g wrong4  ,illu/ration3 #gd4  

,,"p ,,( ,a ,,design ,,by ,,walt]       
,,crane4  ,! use ( %ad+ 9 embroid]y is r
 to get gradation ( col\r ?an relief (  
=m4 ,z to ! /it* to be employ$1 t is    
p>tly a p]sonal matt]1 p>tly a "q ( :at 
is to be done4 ,! /it* mu/ be adapt$ to 
! k9d ( %ad+1 or ! %ad+ mu/ be design$  
to suit ! /it*4 ,x makes all ! diff]5ce 
9 ! _w1 :e!r y\r %ad+ is delib]ately    
done1 or :e!r "o %ade is meant to m]ge  
into ano!r4 ,9 ! be/ "w x is always done
 ) decision4 ,!re is no?+ vague or      
casual1 = example1 ab\t ! %ad+ ( ,mr4   
,crane's animals on ,illu/ration #gd4   
,ev]y:]e ! %ad+ is drawn1 ei!r 9 l9es or
 z a %>ply def9$ mass4 ,giv5 a draw+ 9  
:i* ! %ad[s are prop]ly plann$ & crisply
 drawn l t1 & y may use :at /it* y      
please4  ,illu/ration3 #ge4 ,,%ad+ ,,9  
,,*a9-,,/it*4  ,! m natural way ( %ad+  
is to let ! /it*es foll[ ! l9es ( !     
draw+1 & s make use ( !m to express =m1 
z ) ! /rokes ( ! p5 or p5cil ^u pap]4   
,?us1 9 m$iaeval figurework prior to !  
#ae? c5tury1 ! faces 7 usually done 9   

split /it*1 work$ conc5trically f !     
middle ( ! *eek outw>d1 & s sugge/+ !   
r\ndness ( ! face 7,illu/ration #hg74 ,b
 j z !re is a sy/em ( %ad+ accord+ to   
:i* ! draughtsman makes all 8 /rokes 9  
"o direction 7slant+ usually71 s !      
embroidress may1 if %e pref]1 take h]   
/it*es all "o way2 & 9 ! #ae? & #af?    
c5turies ! fa%ion 0 to "w fle% 9        
%ort-sat9 /it*es always 9 ! v]tical     
direction 7,illu/ration #gi74 ,! t]m    
long-&-%ort-/it* is frequ5tly us$ by way
 ( describ+ ! /it*4 ,x does n1 z ,i h   
said1 help u mu*4 ,! /it*es are 9 ! fir/
 place only sat9-/it*es work$ n 9 ev5   
r[s1 z 9 ,illu/ration #dj1 b s t !re is 
no l9e ( dem>cation betwe5 "o r[ &      
ano!r4 ,& ?is1 9 ! case ( gradat$ col\r1
 makes ! %ad+ s(t]4 ,! words long-&-%ort
 apply /rictly only to ! out] r[ (      
/it*es4 ,y beg91 t is to say1 )         
alt]nately long & %ort /it*es4 ,if y "w 
aft] t ) /it*es ( equal l5g?1 !y        
necess>ily alt]nate or dovetail4 ,if !  
=m to be work$ necessitates radiation 9 

! /it*+1 !re results a texture some?+ l 
! fea!r+ ( a bird's brea/ 7,illu/ration 
#he71 :5ce ! "n plumage-/it*1 ano!r t]m 
describ+ n s mu* a /it* z ! use ( a     
/it*4  ,no matt] :at ! /it*1 "o mu/ be  
able to draw 9 ord] to express =m3 x is 
r m difficult to draw ) a ne$le ?an ) a 
p51 t is all4 ,true1 ! design] may d t =
 y1 & make su* a workmanlike draw+ t !re
 is no mi/ak+ x2 b x takes a skill$     
draughtsman to d x4  ,illu/ration3 #gf4 
,,%ad+ ,,9 ,,%ort ,,/it*es4  ,9 flatti% 
decorative "w1 :]e ! draw+ is 9 firm    
l9es1 z 9 ,illu/ration #hg1 ! task ( !  
embroidress is relatively easy--!re is n
 mu* %ad+1 = example1 9 ! drap]y ( ,k+  
,abias1 & ! v9e leaves are m]ely work$ )
 yell[] gre5 t[>ds ! edges4 ,ev5 :]e !re
 is /rong %ad+1 a draughtsman :o kn[s 8 
bus9ess may make %ad+ easy by draw+ 8   
%ad[s ) firm outl9es4 ,! ta/e ( ! arti/ 
:o design$ ! roses 9 ,illu/ration #ge is
 too pictorial to w9 ! he>t ( any "o ) a
 lean+ t[>ds sev]ity ( design2 too mu*  
relief is s\ght2 b ! way he has got x   

%[s ! ma/] workman2 he has delib]ately  
laid 9 flat wa%es ( col\r1 ea* ) its    
precise outl9e1 :i* ! work] _h only to  
foll[ fai?fully ) flat tamb\r "w4 ,a    
design l t1 giv5 ! work+ draw+1 asks    
little ( ! work] beyond pati5t c>e3 ( ! 
design] x asks consid]able k4  ,a yet m 
pictorial effect is produc$ 9 mu* ! same
 way1 ?is "t 9 sat9 /it*1 9 ,illu/ration
 #gf4 ,! arti/ has = ! mo/ "p drawn 8   
%ad[s ) crisp bru% /rokes1 :i* ! work]  
_h no difficulty 9 foll[+2 b !re is "s  
r\nd+ ( ! birds' bodies :i* a m]ely     
me*anical work] c\ld n h got4 ,9 fact1  
!re are indications t ?is is ! "w m ( a 
pa9t] ?an ( an embroidress1 :o w\ld h   
ackn[l$g$ by h] /it*es ! fea!r+ ( !     
birds' necks z well z _! r\ndness4      
,illu/ration3 #gg4 ,,%ad+ ,,9           
,,long-,,&-,,%ort ,,& ,,split ,,/it*es4 
,y c embroid]1 ( c\rse1 )\t kn[+ mu*    
ab\t draw+2 b y _c g f> 9 ! direction ( 
%ad+ 7n drawn = y1 or only vaguely      
drawn7 )\t ! appreciation ( =m :i* comes
 only ( kn[+ & und]/&+4 ,!re is evid5ce 

( su* k & und]/&+ 9 ! work+ ( ! lion 9  
,illu/ration #gg4 ,t is n a triumph (   
ev5 /it*+2 b x is a triumph ( draw+ ) ! 
ne$le4 ,! %ort sat9 & split /it*es are n
 plac$ ) ! regul>ity s de> to ! human   
ma*9e1 b !y express ! design p]fectly4  
,! embroid]] ( t lion 0 an arti/1 p]haps
 ! arti/ :o design$ x4 ,x might be a    
man's "w1 0 ! v]dict ( an embroidress4  
,at all ev5ts x is ! "w ( "s "o :o c\ld 
draw1 & only a draughtsman or           
draughtswoman c\ld h work$ x4  ,?is is n
 said :olly 9 praise ( %ad+4 ,embroid]y 
ought1 = ! mo/ "p1 to d v well )\t x4 ,!
 po9t to insi/ ^u is t1 if %ad+ is      
employ$ at all1 x %\ld mean some?+1 & n 
be m]e fumbl+ aft] =m4  ,! *>m ( %ad+ 9 
embroid]y is n ! r\ndness ( =m :i* y    
get1 b ! gradation ( col\r :i* x gives4 
,?is may be v delicately & subtly got by
 split-/it*1 :i* r5d]s t /it* s valuable
 9 ! r5d]+ ( fle% t9ts4 ,b ! bl5d+ (    
col\r into col\r :i* is univ]sally      
admir$ is n q s admirable z p ?9k4 ,"o  
may easily employ too _m %ades ( col\r1 

easily m]ge !m too imp]ceptibly "o into 
! o!r1 gett+ only unmean+ s(tness4 ,an  
arti/ pref]s to see few %ades employ$1 &
 ^? *os5 ) judgm5t & plac$ ) delib]ate  
int5tion4 ,if !y mean some?+1 !re is no 
h>m 9 lett+ x be se5 :]e !y meet3 broad 
masses give bread?3 vagu5ess g5]ally    
means ignorance4 ,t is1 p]haps1 :y "o   
dislikes x1 & :y x is s common4         
,,figure ,,embroid]y4   ,to an          
accompli%$ ne$lewoman embroid]y (f]s e  
scope = art1 %ort ( ! pictorial2 & !    
arti/ is n only ju/ifi$ 9 lavi%+ "w ^u  
x1 b (t5 b\nd to d s1 m especially :5 x 
comes to work+ ) mat]ials 9 !mselves ri*
 & co/ly4 ,a beautiful mat]ial1 if y are
 to bett] x 7& if n :y "w ^u x at all871
 mu/ be beautifully work$4 ,co/ly       
mat]ial is wor? preci\s "w2 & !re %\ld  
be by rights a preci\sness ab\t !       
ne$lework employ$ ^u x1 preci\sness (   
design & ( execution4 ,to put ! value   
into ! mat]ial is m]e vulg>ity4  ,x     
seems to an arti/ almo/ to g )\t say+1 t
 ! lab\r on "w claim+ to be art %\ld be 

9 excess ( ! value ( ! /uff :i* goes to 
make x4 ,:at we really prize is ! h& "w 
& ! bra9 "w ( ! arti/2 & ! m preci\s !  
/uff he employs1 ! m /rictly he is b\nd 
to make arti/ic use ( x4 ,i d n mean by 
t pictorial use4 ,y c get1 no d\bt1 ) ! 
ne$le effects m or less pictorial--mo/  
(t5 less2 b1 :5 got1 !y are usually at !
 be/ r inf]ior to ! picture ( :i* !y are
 a copy4  ,"w done %\ld be bett] always 
?an ! design = x1 :i* 0 a project only1 
a promise4 ,! fulfilm5t %\ld be some?+  
m4 ,a design ( :i* ! promise is n likely
 to be fulfill$ 9 ! work+-out is1 = its 
purpose1 ill-design$4 ,to say t y w\ld r
 h ! draw+ f :i* x 0 done 7& t is :at y 
feel ab\t ne$le pictures7 is mo/ sev]ely
 to condemn ei!r ! design] or ! work]1  
or p]haps bo?4 ,only a compet5t figure  
pa9t]1 = example1 c be tru/$ to r5d]    
fle% ) ! ne$le2 h] success is 9         
proportion to h] skill ) ! implem5t1 b 9
 any case less ?an :at might be a*iev$ 9
 pa9t+3 !n :y *oose ! ne$le8  ,admitt+ t
 a pa9t] :o by *oice or *ance takes to !

 ne$le may pa9t ) x satisfactorily      
en\gh1 t does n g to prove ! ne$le a    
likely tool to pa9t )4 ,x is any?+ b t4 
,!re 0 nev] a great] mi/ake ?an to      
suppose1 z "s d :o %\ld "k bett]1 t1 to 
raise embroid]y to ! rank ( art1 figure 
"w is necess>y4 ,! tru? is t only by r>e
 exception does embroid]$ figure "w rise
 to ! rank ( art3 ! rule is t x is      
degrad$1 ! m surely z x aims at picture4
 ,& t is :y1 = all t has be5 done 9 !   
way ( wond]ful picture "w1 say by !     
,italians & ! ,flem+s ( ! ,e>ly         
,r5aissance1 ! pictorial is n ! =m (    
design be/ suit$ to embroid]y4          
,ne$lework1 l any o!r decorative craft1 
dem&s treatm5t 9 ! design1 & ! human    
figure submits less humbly to ! necess>y
 modification ?an o!r =ms ( life4       
,animals1 = in/ance1 l5d !mselves m     
readily to x1 & s d birds2 fur & fea!rs 
are obvi\sly translatable into /it*es4  
,leaves & fl[]s accommodate !mselves    
p]haps bett] /ill2 b ea* is be/ :5 x is 
only ! motive1 n ! model1 ( design4 ,if 

only1 !n1 on acc\nt ( ! great]          
difficulty 9 treat+ x1 ! figure is n !  
=m ( design mo/ likely to d cr$it to !  
ne$le1 & x is absurd to argue t1 figure 
"w be+ ! noble/ =m ( design1 !re=e !    
noble/ =m ( embroid]y mu/ include x4  ,!
 embroidress entirely 9 sympa?y ) h]    
mat]ials w n want tell+ t ! ne$le l5ds  
itself bett] to =ms less fix$ 9 _!      
proportions ?an ! human figure2 !       
decorator w feel t !re is ab\t f9e      
ornam5t a nobility ( its own :i* /&s 9  
ne$ ( no pictorial support2 ! unbiass$  
critic w admit t figure design ( any b !
 mo/ sev]ely decorative k9d is really   
outside ! scope ( ne$le & ?read2 & t !  
desire to introduce x arises1 n out (   
craftsmanlik5ess1 b out ( an ambition   
:i* does n pay mu* reg>d to ! conditions
 prop] to ne$lework4 ,^? conditions %\ld
 be a law to ! ne$lewoman4 ,:at ?\gh %e 
be a pa9t] too8 ,%e is pa9t+ n[ ) a     
ne$le4 ,x is futile to attempt :at c\ld 
be bett] done ) a bru%4 ,%e %\ld be     
cont5t to "w ! way ( ! ne$le4 ,common   

s5se asks t mu* at lea/ ( loyalty to !  
art %e has *os5 to adopt4  ,wond]ful &  
almo/ incr$ibly pictorial effects h be5 
obta9$ ) ! ne$le2 b t does n mean to say
 x 0 a wise ?+ to attempt !m4 ,! result 
may be a/oni%+ & yet n wor? ! pa9s4 ,!  
pa9s ( fle%-pa9t+ ) ! ne$le 7if n !     
impossibility ( x = all practical       
purposes7 is confess$ by ! habit :i*    
arose ( actually pa9t+ ! fle% 9 wat]    
col\r ^u sat94 ,pa9t on sat91 if y l4   
,!re may be occasions :5 !re is no "t to
 /it*1 & x is necess>y = "s c]emonial & 
m or less !atric purpose to pa9t :at _h 
bett] h be5 work$4 ,! m frankly su* "w  
ackn[l$ges its tempor>y & make%ift "* ! 
bett]4 ,sc5e pa9t+ is art1 until y are  
ask$ to take x = l&scape pa9t+4 ,anyway1
 ! mixture ( pa9t+ & embroid]y is n to  
be endur$2 & x is a poor-spirit$        
embroidress :o w ?us confess h] weakness
 & call on pa9t+ to help h] out4 ,x does
 n ev5 d t1 x fails absolutely to       
produce ! desir$ effect4 ,! pa9t+       
qu>rels ) ! /it*+1 & !re is aft] all no 

semblance ( t unity :i* is ! v ess5ce ( 
picture4  ,illu/ration3 #gh4 ,,*9ese    
,,*a9-,,/it*+4  ,an in/ance ( pa9t$ fle%
 occurs ^u ,illu/ration #ia4 ,c any "o1 
9 view ( ! bord]+ to ! picture1 d\bt t !
 work] _h mu* bett] h kept to :at %e    
c\ld d1 & d p]fectly1 ornam5t8 ,an      
example1 on ! o!r h&1 ( :at may be done 
9 ! way ( express+ action 9 ! fewe/ &   
simple/ *a9 /it*es 7if only y "k ! =m y 
want to repres5t & c manage y\r ne$le7  
is giv5 9 ! wee figures 9 ! l&scape     
above 7#gh74  ,illu/ration3 #gi4        
,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,figure ,,"w4  ,9   
speak+ ( ! necess>y treatm5t ( ! human  
figure 7z ( o!r natural =m7 9 ne$lework1
 x is n meant to cont5d t !re is "o only
 way ( treat+ x consi/5tly1 or t !re are
 no m ?an two or ?ree ways4 ,!re are    
v>i\s ways1 "s no d\bt yet to be devis$1
 b !y mu/ be ! ways ( ! ne$le4 ,! fle%1 
( c\rse1 is ! ma9 difficulty4 ,a ,go?ic 
practice1 & n ! lea/ happy "o1 0 to %[ !
 fle% 9 ! nak$ l95 ( ! gr\nd1 only j    
work+ ! outl9es ( ! features 9 black or 

br[n4 ,ano!r way 0 to "w ! face 9 split 
/it*1 z already expla9$1 & ov] t ! m>k+s
 ( ! features1 ! f9e l9es 9 %ort        
sat9-/it*es1 ! broad] 9 split-/it*1 z   
%[n 9 ! figure ( ,k+ ,abias 9           
,illu/ration #hg4  ,! g5]al treatm5t ( !
 figure !re is ( c\rse 9 ! mann] ( !    
#ad? c5tury1 bett] suit$1 f its sev]e   
simplicity1 = r5d]+ 9 ne$lework ?an lat]
 & m pictorial =ms ( composition4 ,t    
ne$lework c1 h[ev]1 9 capable h&s1 g    
f>!r ?an t is %[n 9 ,illu/ration #gi1 a 
r ?readb>e specim5 ( #ae? c5tury "w1 9  
:i* ! "* ( ! man's face is admirably    
express$4 ,x is fir/ work$ 9 %ort1      
/raight /it*es1 all ( :ite1 & ov] t !   
draw+ l9es are work$ 9 br[n4 ,! arti/   
gets h] effect 9 ! simple/ possible way1
 & app>5tly ) ! greate/ ease4           
,illu/ration3 #hj4 ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury   
,,italian ,,figure ,,"w4  ,m l pa9t+ is 
! head 9 ,illu/ration #hj1 work$ 9 %ort 
/it*es ( v>i\s %ades1 :i* give some?+ ( 
! col\r z well z ! modell+ ( fle%4 ,?is 
is a triumph 9 its way4 ,x goes ab\t z  

f> z ! ne$le c g1 & fur!r ?an1 except "u
 r>e conditions1 x ought to g4 ,b x may 
d t & yet be ne$lework4  ,equally       
wond]ful 9 _! m9iature way are ! faces (
 ! little p on ,illu/ration #ha1 ab\t ! 
size ( y\r f+] nail4 ,!y are work$ 9    
solid sat9-/it*1 & ! two lay]s ( silk   
7back & front7 give a sub/ance fairly   
?ick b at ! same "t yield+1 s t :5 !    
/it*es = ! m\? & eyes are sewn tightly  
ov] x !y s9k 91 &1 z x 71 pu% up ! floss
 betwe5 & give relief4 ,! nose is work$ 
9 extra sat9-/it* ov] ! o!r1 & ! slight 
depression at ! end ( ! /it* gives l9es 
( draw+4 ,?is tr5*es ^u modell+1 b1 on  
su* a m9ute scale1 does n am\nt to v    
pron\nc$ dep>ture f ! flat4 ,! me?od    
employ$ does n l5d itself to l>g] "w4   
,! la/ ^w on ! "q z to :at "o may d ) ! 
ne$le is1 t y may d :at y c2 b x is be/ 
to seek by means ( x :at x c be/ d1 &   
always to make mu* ( ! texture ( silk1 &
 ( ! quality ( pure & lu/r\s col\r :i* x
 gives--9 %ort1 to "w ) y\r mat]ials4   
,illu/ration3 #ha4 ,,*9ese ,,figures4   

,,! ,,direction ,,( ,,! ,,/it*4   ,!    
effect ( any /it* is va/ly v>i$1 accord+
 to ! use made ( x4 ,sat9-/it*1 x 0 %[n 
7#ch71 work$ 9 twi/$ silk1 ceases to h  
any appe>ance ( sat92 & x makes all !   
diff]5ce :e!r ! /it*es are long or %ort1
 close toge!r or wide ap>t4 ,m important
 ?an all is ! direction ( ! /it*4 ,by t 
alone y c recognise ! arti/ 9 ne$lework4
  ,! ,,direction ( ! /it* des]ves       
consid]ation f two po9ts ( view--t (    
col\r & t ( =m4 ,fir/ z to col\r4 ,x is 
n suffici5tly realis$ t e alt]ation 9 ! 
direction ( ! /it* means v>iety ( tone1 
if n ( t9t4 ,take a fea!r 9 y\r h&1 &   
turn x ab\t1 s t n[ "o side ( ! quill n[
 ! o!r cat*es ! light2 or notice !      
alt]nate /ripes ( bright] & grey] gre5  
on a fre%-trimm$ lawn1 :]e ! roll] has  
b5t ! blades ( grass fir/ ?is way & !n  
t4 ,s x is ) ! col\r ( silk5 /it*es4 ,! 
patt]n opposite 7#hb7 looks z if x _h   
be5 embroid]$ 9 two %ades ( silk2 9 ! "w
 itself x has /ill m t appe>ance2 b x is
 all 9 "o %ade ( br[ni% gold3 ! diff]5ce

 :i* y see is m]ely ! effect ( light ^u 
x4 ,! horizontal /it*es1 z x happ5s1    
cat* ! light2 ! v]tical ones d n4 ,_h ! 
light come f a diff]5t po9t1 ! effect   
might h be5 rev]s$4 ,if !re _h be5      
diagonal /it*es f "r to left1 !y w\ld h 
giv5 a ?ird t9t2 &1 if !re _h be5 o!rs f
 left to "r1 !y w\ld h giv5 a f\r?4     
,illu/ration3 #hb4 ,,influ5ce ,,(       
,,/it*-,,direction ,,^u ,,col\r4        
,suppose a patt]n 9 :i* ! leaves 7 work$
 horizontally1 ! fl[]s v]tically1 & !   
/alks 9 ! direction ( _! gr[?1 all 9 "o 
/it* & 9 "o col\r1 !re w\ld be a v      
appreciable diff]5ce 9 tone betwe5      
leaves1 fl[]s1 & /alks4 ,9 gold1 !      
diff]5ce w\ld be yet m /rik+4 ,& t is "o
 reason :y gold backgr\nds are work$ 9  
diap]s2 n s mu* = ! sake ( patt]n z to  
get v>iety ( brok5 t9t4  ,9 ! fam\s     
,syon ,cope ! direction ( ! /it*+ is    
frankly indep5d5t ( ! design4 ,t is to  
say1 t1 :ile ! patt]n radiates naturally
 f ! neck1 ! /it*es d n foll[ suit1 b g 
all "o way--! way ( ! /uff4 ,?is1 ?\gh r

 a brutal solution ( ! difficulty1 saves
 all aft]?\ght z to :at direction !     
/it*es %all take2 b x has v mu* ! effect
 ( weav+4 ,! embroid]] ( ! #ac? c5tury 0
 n afraid ( t 7aim$ at x1 p]haps871 & 01
 app>5tly1 afraid ( lett+ g ! lead+ /r+s
 ( w>p & weft4  ,:5 /it*es foll[ !      
direction ( ! =m embroid]$1 accommodat+ 
!mselves to x1 all mann] ( subtle *ange 
( tone results4 ,y get1 n only v>iety ( 
col\r1 b m ?an a sugge/ion ( =m4  ,t is 
! second po9t to be consid]$4           
,illu/ration3 #hc4 ,,mean+less          
,,direction ,,( ,,/it*4  ,! direction   
tak5 by ! /it* always helps to expla9 ! 
draw+2 or1 if ! ne$lewoman _c draw1 to  
%[ t %e _c--z1 = example1 9 ! tulip h]e)
 7#hc74 ,a less intellig5t managem5t ( !
 /it* x w\ld be h>d to f9d4 ,!          
ne$le/rokes1 f> f help+ 9 ! v slighte/  
degree to expla9 ! fold+ ov] ( ! petals1
 directly contradict ! draw+4 ,! fl[]   
might almo/ h be5 design$ to %[ h[ n to 
d x2 b x is a piece ( old "w1 q s]i\sly 
done1 only )\t kn[+4 ,! embroidress is  

free1 ( c\rse1 to "w h] /it*es 9 a      
direction :i* does n express =m at all1 
s z to give a flat t9t1 9 :i* is no h9t 
( modell+2 b ! int5tion is "h q obvi\sly
 naturali/ic4 ,! r5d]+ bel[ 7#hd7 %[s ! 
direction ! /it*es %\ld h tak54 ,!      
turn-ov] ( ! petals is ev5 !re n v      
cle>ly express$1 b t is ! fault ( !     
draw+ 7v mu* on a p> ) ! workman%ip71 f 
:i* x w\ld n h be5 fair to dep>t4       
,illu/ration3 #hd4 ,,m ,,expressive     
,,l9es ,,( ,,/it*+4  ,a m clev]         
fulfilm5t ( ! naturali/ic int5tion is to
 be se5 9 ,illu/ration #gf4 ,! draw+ ( !
 doves is 9 ! r loose mann] ( ! p]iod ( 
,m>ie ,anto9ette2 b ! treatm5t ( ! /it* 
is clev] 9 its way--! way1 z ,i h said1 
r ( pa9t+ ?an ( embroid]y1 giv+ z x does
 ! r\ndness ( ! birds' bodies b no h9t (
 actual fea!r+1 su* z y f9d 9 ! bird 9  
,illu/ration #he4 ,!re1 e /it* helps to 
expla9 ! fea!r+4 ,by a discreet use (   
:at ,i mu/ p]si/ 9 call+ ! same /it* 7t 
is1 sat9-/it* & ! v>iety ( x call$      
plumage-/it*7 ! embroid]] has r5d]$ )   

equal p]fection ! sweep ( ! broad w+    
fea!rs & ! fluffy fea!r+ ( ! brea/4 ,x  
is by means ( ! direction ( ! /it*1 too1
 t ! draw+ ( ! neck is s p]fectly r5d]$4
  ,illu/ration3 #he4 ,,sat9 ,,&         
,,plumage ,,/it*es4  ,! direction ( !   
/it* is v>i$ to "s purpose 9 ! head 9   
,illu/ration #hj1 :]e ! fle% is all 9   
/raight upright /it*es1 :il/ ! hair is  
/it*$ 9 ! direction ( its gr[?4  ,! five
 petals on ! sat9-/it* sampl]           
7,illu/ration #cf7--to desc5d f ! ma/]ly
 to ! elem5t>y--%[ some?+ ( ! diff]5ce x
 makes 9 :at direction ! /it* is work$4 
,x matt]s m1 ( c\rse1 9 "s /it*es ?an 9 
o!rs2 b 9 mo/ cases ! direction ( ! /it*
 sugge/s =m1 & ne$s accord+ly to be     
consid]$4  ,x sc>cely ne$s fur!r po9t+  
out h[ ! direction ( ! /it* may help to 
expla9 ! con/ruction ( ! =m1 z 9 ! case 
( leaves1 = example1 :]e ! ve9+ may be  
sugge/$2 or ( /alks1 :]e ! fibre may be 
indicat$4 ,!re is no law z to !         
direction ( /it*1 except t x %\ld be    
consid]$4 ,y may foll[ ! direction ( !  

=ms1 y may cross !m1 y may delib]ately  
lay y\r /it*es 9 ! mo/ arbitr>y mann]2  
b1 :atev] y d1 y mu/ d x ) intellig5t   
purpose4 ,an arti/ or a workwoman c tell
 at once :e!r y\r /it* 0 laid j s       
because y meant x or because y knew no  
bett]4  ,hav+ laid y\r /it*es           
delib]ately1 x is be/ to leave !m1 & n  
to "w ov] !m ) o!r /it*+4 ,/it*+ ov]    
/it*+ 0 resort$ to :5ev] elaboration 0 !
 fa%ion2 b ! simpl] & m direct me?od is 
! be/4 ,! way ! ve9s are laid 9 cord ov]
 ! sat9-/it* 9 ! lotus leaves 9         
,illu/ration #dj is ! "o fault to be    
f\nd ) an all b p]fect piece ( "w4  ,!  
/it*+ ov] ! laid silv] mid-rib 9        
,illu/ration #ib is bett] judg$4 ,x may 
be said1 g5]ally speak+1 t except :]e1 z
 9 ! case ( laid-"w1 ! fir/ /it*+ 0 done
 9 anticipation ( a second1 & ! "w w\ld 
be incomplete )\t x1 /it*+ ov] /it*es   
%\ld be indulg$ 9 only ) mod]ation4     
,/it*+ is sometimes done n m]ely ov]    
/it*es1 b ^u ! surface ( !m1 n p5etrat+ 
! gr\nd-/uff4 ,unless1 9 su* a case1 !  

fir/ /it*+ is ( su* compact "* z to want
 no /r5g!n+1 x am\nts almo/ to a s9     
aga9/ practicality n to take advantage (
 ! second /it*+ to make x firm]4        
,,*ur* ,,"w4   ,x is cu/om>y to draw a  
di/9ction betwe5 *ur*1 or ecclesia/ical 
z x is call$1 & o!r embroid]y2 b x is a 
di/9ction )\t mu* diff]5ce4 ,c]ta9 k9ds 
( "w are d\btless be/ suit$ to ! dignity
 ( *ur* c]emonial1 & to ! bread? (      
ar*itectural decoration2 accord+ly1     
c]ta9 processes ( "w h be5 adopt$ = *ur*
 purposes1 & are tak5 z a matt] (       
c\rse--too mu* z a matt] ( c\rse4 ,!    
fact is1 "w precisely l t employ$ on    
ve/m5ts & ! l 7,illu/ration #hf7 0 us$  
also = ! cap>ison ( horses & o!r equally
 pr(ane purposes4  ,illu/ration3 #hf4   
,,r5aissance ,,*ur* ,,"w4  ,practical   
consid]ations1 alike ( c]emonial &      
decoration1 make x imp]ative t *ur* "w  
%\ld be effective3 religi\s s5tim5t     
insi/s t x %\ld be ( ! be/ & ri*e/1     
unsp>+ly1 & ev5 lavi%ly giv52 common    
s5se dictates t ! lov+ lab\r sp5t ^u x  

%\ld n be lo/4 ,& ^! & o!r su*          
consid]ations involve me?ods ( "w :i*1  
by con/ant use = *ur* purposes1 h come  
to be class$ z ecclesia/ical embroid]y4 
,b !re is no consecrat$ /it*1 no /it*   
exclusively belong+ to ! *ur*1 none     
probably inv5t$ by x4 ,= embroid]y is a 
primitive art--clo!s 7 /it*$ be=e ev]   
*ur*es 7 furni%$2 & ,european me?ods (  
embroid]y are all d]iv$ f ,ori5tal "w1  
:i* f\nd its way we/w>ds at a v e>ly    
date4 ,phrygia 7sometimes cr$it$ ) !    
inv5tion ( embroid]y7 pass$ x on to     
,greece1 & ,greece to ,italy1 ! gate (  
,european art4  ,*ri/ianity produc$ new 
=ms ( design1 b n new ways ( "w4 ,!     
me?ods adopt$ 9 ! nunn]ies ( ! ,we/ 7 ^?
 :i* _h already be5 p]fect$ 9 ! h>ems ( 
! ,ea/4  ,embroid]y = ! *ur* mu/        
naturally take c\nt ( ! *ur*1 bo? z a   
build+ & z a place ( wor%ip2 b1 z ap>t f
 all o!r ne$lework1 !re is no su* ?+ z  
*ur* embroid]y2 & ! br&+ ( "o v dull k9d
 ( ?+ ) t "n is 9 ! int]e/ nei!r ( art  
nor ( ! *ur*1 b only ( bus9ess4         

,ecclesia/ical art is j a trade-t]m1    
cov]+ a va/ am\nt ( s\lless "w4 ,!re is 
9 ! nature ( ?+s no reason :y art %\ld  
be res]v$ = secul> purposes1 & only     
manufacture be enc\rag$ by ! cl]gy4 ,!  
te/ ( fitness = religi\s s]vice is      
religi\s feel+2 b t is h>dly m likely to
 be f\nd 9 ! output ( ! *ur* furni%]    
7trade patt]ns ov]lad5 ) /ock symbols71 
?an 9 ! /it*+ ( ! dev\t ne$lewoman1     
work+ = ! glory ( ,god1 9 ^: s]vice (   
old ! be/ "w 0 done4  ,_m ( ! examples (
 old "w giv5 on ^! pages are f *ur*     
ve/m5ts1 alt> furniture1 & ! l2         
in=mation on t po9t w be f\nd 9 !       
descriptive index ( illu/rations at !   
beg9n+ ( ! book2 b !y are "h discuss$ f 
! po9t ( view ( workman%ip1 ) z little  
ref]5ce z possible to religi\s or o!r   
use3 t is a "q ap>t f art4  ,! di/+ui%+ 
features ( *ur* "w %\ld be1 9 ! fir/    
place1 its devotional _s1 &1 9 ! second1
 its consummate workman%ip4 ,9 x1 inde$1
 we might expect to f9d "w beyond !     
rivalry ( trade controll$ by conditions 

( "t & money4 ,ev5 !n x w\ld be b ! m   
p]fect expression ( ! same art :i* 9 its
 degree ennobl$ ?+s ( civic & dome/ic   
use4  ,*ur* embroid]y1 z usually        
practis$ 9 ^! days1 is n only ! mo/     
frigid & rigid 9 design1 b ! h>de/ & mo/
 me*anical 9 execution--:i* la/ arises 9
 great "p f ! way x is done4 ,x is n    
embroid]$ /raight ^u ! silk or velvet   
:i* =ms ! gr\ndwork ( ! design1 b       
sep>ately on l954 ,! patt]n ?us work$ is
 cut out1 & ei!r pa/$ /raight on to !   
gr\nd-/uff1 or1 if ! l95 is at all      
loose1 fir/ m\nt$ on ?9 pap] & !n cut   
out & pa/$ on to ! velvet1 :]e x is kept
 "u pressure until x is dry4 ,9 ei!r    
case ! edges h ev5tually to be work$    
ov]4  ,?is habit ( work+ on l95 or      
canvas & apply+ ! embroid]y ready work$ 
on to ! ri*] /uff1 ?\gh e>ly us$ on     
occasion1 does n seem to h be5 common   
until a p]iod :5 manufacture g5]ally    
usurp$ ! place ( art4 ,! "w 9           
,illu/ration #hg 0 done directly on to !
 silk4 ,9 ! latt] half ( ! #ah? c5tury  

!re 0 a regul> trade 9 embroid]y ready  
to sew on1 by :i* means purveyors c\ld  
turn out 9 a day or two :at w\ld h tak5 
mon?s to embroid]4  ,ev5 if x _h be5 !  
inv>iable m$iaeval practice to "w sprays
 or :at n ^u canvas & apply !m bodily to
 ! velvet1 t w\ld n make x ! m          
workmanlike or /raight=w>d way ( work+4 
,if ne$le /it*es are ! o/5sible means ( 
gett+ an effect ^u a /uff1 x seems only 
"r !y %\ld be /it*$ ^u t /uff4 ,to "w ! 
details ap>t & !n clap !m on to x1 /&s  
to embroid]y v mu* 9 ! relation (       
h$ge-c>p5t]+ to jo9]y4 ,nor is x usually
 happy 9 result4 ,occasionally1 z 9 !   
case ( ,miss ,c4 ,p4 ,%rewsbury's       
v9e-leaf patt]n 7,illu/ration #hh71 x   
dis>ms criticism4 ,m (t5 x looks        
/uck-on4 ,a way ( avoid+ t look is to   
add judici\s aft]-/it*+ on ! /uff       
itself2 & ?is mu/ n be conf9$ to ! sew+ 
on or outl9+ m]ely1 b all[$ to w&]      
playfully ov] ! field1 s z to draw y\r  
eye away f ! m>g9 ( ! appli$ pat*1 &    
lead y to inf] t1 "s ( ! ne$lework be+  

obvi\sly done on ! velvet1 all ( x is4  
,b to disguise 9 ?is way ! l9e (        
dem>cation1 ev5 if y succe$ 9 do+ x1 is 
at be/ ! art ( prev>ication4            
,illu/ration3 #hg4 ,,go?ic ,,*ur* ,,"w4 
,no d\bt x is difficult to "w ^u velvet4
 ,! /uff is n v sympa!tic1 & ! /it*+ has
 a way ( s9k+ into ! pile1 & be+1 z x 71
 dr[n$ 9 x4 ,b ! trail+ spirals (       
split-/it* :i* play ab\t ! appli$ spots 
9 _m a m$iaeval alt> clo? hold _! own q 
well en\gh to %[ t silk c be work$      
/raight on to ! velvet4  ,t gold may be 
equally well work$ /raight on to velvet 
may be se5 9 any ,indian saddle clo?4   
,heavy "w ( ?is k9d may be r man's "w   
?an woman's2 b t is n ! po9t4 ,! "q is1 
h[ to get ! be/ results2 & ! answ] is1  
by work+ on ! /uff4  ,x may be argu$ t 9
 ?is way y _c get v high relief2 b !    
occasions = high relief are1 at ! be/1  
r>e4 ,if y want actual modell+1 z 9 !   
,spani% "w ref]r$ to 9 a previ\s *apt]1 
t mu/1 ( c\rse1 be work$ sep>ately1     
built up1 z x 71 ^u ! canvas & work$    

ov]4 ,& !re is no reason :y x %\ld n1 = 
9 no case does x appe> to be /it*+4 ,9  
fact1 x aims delib]ately at ! effect (  
*as$ & beat5 metal4  ,illu/ration3 #hh4 
,,mod]n ,,*ur* ,,"w ,,by ,,miss         
,,%rewsbury4  ,heavy applique ( any k9d 
affects1 ( c\rse1 n only ! ?ickness b ! 
flexibility ( ! mat]ial ?us enri*$--an  
important consid]ation if x is meant to 
hang 9 folds4     ,a ,,plea ,,=         
,,simplicity4   ,! simple/ patt]ns are  
by no means ! lea/ beautiful4 ,x is too 
mu* ! fa%ion to und]rate ! arti/ic value
 ( ! less pret5ti\s =ms ( ne$lework1 &  
especially ( flat ornam5t1 :i* has1     
nev]!less1 its own v important place 9  
decoration4 ,z = geometric patt]n1 t is 
q b5ea? consid]ation--x is s me*anical6 
,me*anical is a ^w z easily spok5 z     
ano!r2 b if ne$lework is me*anical1 t is
 m (t5 ! fault ( ! ne$lewoman ?an ( !   
me*anism %e employs4 ,! ,ori5tals1 :o   
indulg$ s freely 9 geometric device1 7 !
 lea/ me*anical ( work]s4 ,x is our     
rigid way ( work+ x :i* robs geometric  

ornam5t ( its *>m4 ,! ne$lework] has    
less ?an ev] occasion to be afraid (    
geometric patt]n2 = x is peculi>ly      
difficult to get 9 x t appe>ance (      
rule-&-compass-"w :i* makes ornam5t s   
dull4  ,! "o real objection to geometric
 patt]n is t x is n[adays s *eaply & s  
me*anically got by weav+ t1 h[ev] freely
 x may be r5d]$1 !re is a dang] ( its   
sugge/+ me*anical production1 :i*       
embroid]y emphatically ought n to d4    
,!re is a simil> objection n[adays to "s
 /it*es1 su*1 = example1 z *a9-/it* &   
back-/it*1 :i* sugge/ ! sew+-ma*9e4     
,embroid]y does n to-day take q ! place 
x once did4 ,x 0 us$1 = example1 by !   
e>ly ,coptic ,*ri/ians to supplem5t     
tape/ry4 ,t is to say1 :at !y c\ld n    
weave !y /it*$2 x 0 only to get m       
delicate detail ?an _! tape/ry loom w\ld
 all[1 t !y _h rec\rse to ! ne$le4      
,ne$lework 01 9 fact1 an adjunct to     
weav+4 ,lat]1 9 m$iaeval times1 !       
,g]mans ( ,cologne1 = _! *ur* ve/m5ts & 
! l1 wove :at !y c\ld1 & enri*$ _! wov5 

figures ) embroid]y4  ,aga91 a great    
deal ( ,ori5tal embroid]y1 & ( peasant  
"w ev]y:]e1 is m]ely ! result (         
circum/ances4 ,:]e money is sc>ce & "t  
is ( no acc\nt1 x answ]s a woman's      
purpose to d = h]self ) h] ne$le :at    
might 9 "s respects be ev5 bett] done on
 ! loom4 ,h] pref]5ce = h&work is n t x 
has arti/ic possibilities1 b t x co/s h]
 less4 ,%e w\ld 9 _m cases pref] ! m    
me*anically produc$ fabric1 if %e c\ld  
get x at ! same price4 ,we d n f9d t    
,ori5tals reject ! productions ( !      
p[]-loom--:i* !y w\ld d if !y _h !      
arti/ic in/9cts ) :i* we cr$it !m4      
,illu/ration3 #hi4 ,,simple ,,/it*+ ,,on
 ,,l954  ,x results f our conditions (  
to-day t !re are "s k9ds ( ne$lework we 
admire1 :i* yet are n wor? our do+1 su*1
 = example1 z ! all-ov] "w1 :i* does n  
am\nt to m ?an simple diap]1 & :i*      
really is n s mu* embroid]+ on a textile
 z conv]t+ x into "o ( ano!r k9d4       
,glorifi$ in/ances ( ?is k9d ( "w occur 
9 ! %awl "w ( ,ca%m]e1 & 9 ^? beautiful 

bits ( ,p]sian /it*+ :i* rem9d "o (     
c>pet-"w 9 m9iature1 if !y are n 9 fact 
relat$ to c>pet-weav+4  ,embroid]y 0 at 
"o "t ! readie/1 & practically ! only1  
means ( gett+ enri*m5t ( c]ta9 k9ds4    
,to-day we get ma*9e embroid]y4 ,z      
ma*9]y is p]fect$1 & le>ns to d :at     
=m]ly c\ld be done only by ! ne$le1     
h&-work]s get pu%$ aside & fall out (   
"w4 ,_! *ance is1 9 keep+ always 9      
advance ( ! ma*9e4 ,!re is ?is hope =   
!m1 t ! monotony ( ma*9e-made ?+s       
produces 9 ! end a reaction 9 fav\r (   
h&work--provid$ always x gives u some?+ 
:i* manufacture _c4 ,possibly also !re  
is scope = amateurs & home-arti/s 9 t   
comb9ation ( embroid]y & h&-weav+ ) :i* 
! p[]-loom1 ?\gh x has sup]s$$ x1 does n
 ent] into competition4  ,illu/ration3  
#ij4 ,,simple ,,c\*+ ,,on ,,l954  ,x is 
n s mu* = geometric ornam5t z = simple  
patt]n t ,i "h make my plea1 = t retic5t
 "w ( :i* s mu* 0 at "o "t done 9 ?is   
c\ntry--m]e back-/it*+1 = example1 or   
:at looks l x1 9 yell[ silk ^u :ite l952

 or ! mode/ diap]1 ar*aic1 if y l1 b    
inevitably *>act]i/ic1 9 :i* ! naivete (
 ! sampl] seems always to l+]2 or aga91 
! admirably simple "w 9 ,illu/ration    
#hi4 ,?is la/ does n %[ s delicately 9 !
 photographic reproduction z x %\ld1    
because1 be+ 9 grey & yell[ on :ite l951
 ! relative value ( ! two %ades ( col\r 
is lo/ 9 ! process4 ,9 ! orig9al !      
broad] yell[ b&s are mu* m 9 tone ) !   
gr\nd1 & d n ass]t !mselves s mu*4 ,su* 
z x is1 only an arti/ c\ld h design$ t  
bord]-"w1 & any neat-h&$ woman c\ld h   
embroid]$ x4  ,?9k aga9 ( ! delicate "w 
9 :ite on :ite1 too famili> to ne$      
illu/ration1 :i* makes no l\d claim to  
be art1 b is cont5t to be beautiful6 ,is
 t to be a ?+ altoge!r ( ! pa/ n[ t we h
 ,art ,ne$lework8 ,art ne$lework6 ,x has
 help$ put an end to ! pati5ce ( ! mod]n
 work]1 & to inspire h] too (t5 )       
ambitions q beyond h] p[]s ( fulfilm5t4 
,:at "o misses 9 ! "w ( ! pres5t day is 
t retic5t & unpret5d+ /it*]y1 :i*1 ?9k+ 
to be no m ?an a lab\r ( lov+ pati5ce1  

is really a "w ( art1 bett] des]v+ !    
title ?an a flaunt+ floral quilt :i*    
goes by ! "n ( art ne$lework--design$   
app>5tly to worry ! eye by day & to give
 bad dreams by night to :oev] may h !   
mis=tune to sleep "u x4 ,is anyone      
n[adays mode/ en\gh to d "w su* z ! c\*+
 9 outl9e 9 ,illu/ration #ij8 ,yet :at  
di/9ction !re is ab\t x6     ,,embroid]y
 ,,design4   ,p]fect art results only :5
 design] & work] are entirely 9 sympa?y1
 :5 ! design] kn[s q :at ! work] c d )  
h] mat]ials1 & :5 ! work] n only und]/&s
 :at ! design] meant1 b feels ) him4 ,& 
x is ! te/ ( a practical design] t he n 
only kn[s ! conditions "u :i* 8 design  
is to be c>ri$ out1 b is ready to submit
 to !m4  ,! di/9ction "h made betwe5    
design] & embroid]] is n casual1 b      
a=e-?\ght1 not)/&+ ! division ( lab\r x 
implies4 ,en?usiasm has a habit (       
outrunn+ reason4 ,because 9 "s bran*es (
 indu/ry subdivision ( lab\r has be5    
c>ri$ to absurd excess1 x is ! fa%ion to
 dem& 9 all bran*es ( x ! autograph "w (

 "o p]son1 :i* is no less absurd4 ,to   
try & l9k toge!r faculties :i* ,nature  
has = ! mo/ "p put asund]1 is futile4   
,t design] & work] %\ld be "o & ! same  
p]son is an ideal1 b "o only v          
occasionally fulfill$4 ,:5 t happ5s     
7,illu/rations #fa & #hh7 x is well4 ,b 
! attempt to realise x commonly works   
out 9 "o ( two ways3 ei!r a good design 
is spoilt 9 ! work+ = want ( executive  
skill on ! "p ( ! design]1 or good      
workman%ip is sp5t on poor design1 z    
good1 p]haps1 z "o has any "r to expect 
( a skill$ ne$lework]4  ,! fact is1 y c 
only make out all ! _w to be design]s by
 r$uc+ design to :at all ! _w c d4 ,& t 
is n mu*4 ,!re is a po9t ( view f :i* x 
does n am\nt to design at all4  ,! /udy 
( design =ms "p ( ! education ( an      
embroidress1 n s mu* t %e may design :at
 %e works1 b t %e may "k 9 ! fir/ place 
:at good design is1 &1 9 ! second1 be   
equal to ! ev]-recurr+ occasion :5 a    
design has to be modifi$ or adapt$4 ,if1
 9 ?us manipulat+ design n h]s1 %e %\ld 

discov] a faculty ( inv5tion1 %e w want 
no tell+ to ex]cise x4 ,a design] wants 
no enc\ragem5t to design--%e designs4   
,!re w\ld be no occasion to insi/ ^u    
?is1 7 x n = ! preval5ce at ! pres5t    
mom5t ( ! idea t a work]1 9 :atev] art  
or h&icraft1 is 9 arti/ic duty b\nd to  
design :atev] %e puts h& to d4 ,t is a  
!ory z false z x is unk9d2 let no       
embroidress be disc\rag$ by x4 ,let h]1 
unless %e is inw>dly impell$ to inv5t1  
rema9 cont5t to d good ne$lework4 ,t is 
h] art4 ,h] bus9ess z an arti/ is to    
make beautiful ?+s4 ,co-op]ation 9 !    
mak+ ( !m is no crime4  ,& :at1 !n1 ab\t
 orig9ality8 ,orig9ality is a gift      
beyond price4 ,b x is n a ?+ :i* ev5 !  
design] %\ld /ruggle aft]4 ,x comes1 if 
x is !re4 ,!re is a rev5geful           
consolation = ! pa9 we suff] f design   
ab\t u wri?+ to be up-to-date1 9 ! ?\ght
 t its contortions tell :at pa9 x co/ to
 d4 ,! bir? ( beauty is a less agonis+  
travail2 & ! ?+ to seek is beauty1 n    
novelty4 ,:oev] plann$ ! l9es ( ! bord] 

9 ,illu/ration #ia1 or treat$ ! leafage 
9 ,illu/ration #ib1 0 n try+ to be      
orig9al1 b det]m9$ to d 8 be/4 ,arti/s &
 work]s ( individuality & "* are        
!mselves1 )\t be+ s mu* z aw>e t        
orig9ality has gone out ( !m4           
,illu/ration3 #ia4 ,,r5aissance         
,,ornam5t4  ,to assume1 !n1 t e         
ne$lewoman is1 or c ev] be1 compet5t to 
design :at %e embroid]s1 is to make v   
small acc\nt ( design4 ,h[ is x possible
 to take design s]i\sly & yet ?9k x is  
to be ma/]$ )\t ye>s ( pati5t /udy1 :i* 
few workwom5 c or w devote to x8 ,any   
cultivat$ woman may = h]self inv5t 7if x
 is to be call$ inv5tion7 some?+ bett]  
wor? work+ ?an is to be b\ght ready to  
"w4 ,& t may d = _m purposes1 s long z x
 does n claim to be m ?an x is2 b 9 !   
case ( really important "w1 to be       
execut$ at consid]able co/ n only (     
mat]ial1 b ( pati5t lab\r1 surely x is  
wor? giv+ s]i\s ?\ght to its design4 ,! 
scant consid]ation commonly giv5 to x   
%[s h[ little ! work] is 9 e>ne/4 ,or   

has %e ?\ght8 ,& is %e p]suad$ t h]     
artless spray ( fl[]s1 or ! iron$-(f    
patt]n %e has b\ght1 is all t art c\ld  
be8 ,x w\ld be rude to tell h] %e 0 wa/+
 silk6 ,h[ %\ld %e "k8  ,! only way (   
kn[+ is to /udy1 to look at good "w1 old
 "w by pref]5ce2 x is wor? no "o's :ile 
to praise t unduly4 ,& if 9 all t is n[ 
s readily accessible %e f9ds no?+ to    
admire1 no?+ :i* appeals to h]1 no?+ :i*
 inspires h]1 !n h] case is hopeless4   
,if1 on ! o!r h&1 %e f9ds only s mu* z  
"o /yle ( "w sympa!tic to h]1 /udies t1 
lets its _s s9k into h]1 tries to d     
some?+ wor?y ( x1 !n %e is on ! "r road4
 ,measure y\rself ) ! be/1 n ) ! common 
run ( "w2 & if t %\ld put y out (       
conceit ) y\r own "w1 no great h>m is   
done2 soon] or lat] y h got to come to a
 mode/ op9ion ( y\rself1 if ev] y are to
 d ev5 mod]ate ?+s4  ,illu/ration3 #ib4 
,,leaf ,,treatm5t ,,9 ,,applique4  ,b ! 
be/ above ref]r$ to does n necess>ily   
mean ! mo/ ma/]ly4 ,! be/ ( a simple k9d
 is n calculat$ to disc\rage anyone--r1 

x looks z if x mu/ be easy to d t2 & 9  
try+ to d x y le>n h[ mu* goes to ! do+ 
x4 ,good design ne$ n be ( any great    
importance or pret5sions4 ,x may be q   
simple1 if only x is "r2 if ! l9es are  
true1 ! col\r h>moni\s2 if x is adapt$  
to its place1 to its use & purpose1 to  
execution n only ) ! ne$le b 9 !        
p>ticul> k9d ( ne$lework to be employ$4 
,!re has ( late ye>s be5 some?+ ( a     
revival ( ne$lework design 9 s*ools (   
art1 & "s v promis+ & ev5 mo/ accompli%$
 "w has be5 done2 b 9 _m in/ances1 z x  
seems to me1 x is r design :i* has be5  
translat$ into ne$lework1 ?an design    
cle>ly made = execution ) ! ne$le4 ,a   
really appropriate & practical design = 
embroid]y %\ld be s*em$ n m]ely ) a view
 to its execution ) ! ne$le1 b ) a view 
to its execution 9 a p>ticul> /it* or   
/it*es--& possibly by a p>ticul>        
embroidress4 ,to be safe 9 design+ "w s 
m9ute z t on ,illu/ration #ic1 "o mu/ be
 sure ( ! ne$lewoman :o is to execute x4
  ,illu/ration3 #ic4 ,,delicate         

,,sat9-,,/it*--,,work$ ,,by ,,miss      
,,buckle4  ,my ref]5ce to old "w mu/ n  
be tak5 to imply t design %\ld be 9     
imitation ( :at has be5 done1 or t x    
%\ld foll[ on ^? l9es4 ,design 0 once ^u
 a "t traditional2 b ! *a9 ( tradition  
has snapp$1 & n[ consci\s design mu/ be 
eclectic--t is to say1 "o mu/ /udy old  
"w to see :at has be5 done1 & h[ x has  
be5 done1 & !n d "o's own 9 "o's own    
way4 ,x is at lea/ z fooli% to break q  
away f :at has be5 done z to te!r       
y\rself to x4 ,& 9 :at has be5 done y w 
see1 n only :at is wor? do+1 b :at is n4
 ,t1 ea* mu/ judge = h]self4 ,= my "p1 x
 seems to me ! ?+ be/ wor? do+ is       
ornam5t4 ,any way1 ?is mu* is c]ta9 7& y
 h only to g to a museum to prove x71 t 
!re is no ne$ = ne$lework]s1 unless _!  
in/9ct draws !m t way1 to take to ne$le 
pa9t+1 to pictures 9 silk1 or ev5 to    
fl[] /it*+4  ,! limitations ( embroid]y 
are n s rigidly m>k$ z ! b\nd>ies ( _m  
ano!r craft4 ,!re is little te*nical    
difficulty 9 repres5t+ fl[]s1 = example1

 v naturally--too naturally = any       
dignifi$ decorative purpose4 ,embroid]] 
or embroid]y design] w1 z a matt] (     
fact1 be con/antly inspir$ by fl[] =ms1 
& silk gives ! pure col\r ( _! petals z 
ne>ly z may be4 ,b1 ?\gh ! patt]n be a  
v]itable fl[] g>d51 ! embroidress w n   
=get1 to use ! happy phrase ( ,william  
,morris1 t %e is g>d5+ ) silks & gold   
?reads4  ,let ! ne$lework] /udy ! "w ( !
 ne$le 9 pref]5ce to t ( ! bru%2 let h] 
aim at :at /uff & ?reads w give h]1 &   
give m readily ?an w\ld some?+ else4    
,let h] "w accord+ to ! ne$le3 take t = 
h] guide1 n be misl$ by :at "s o!r tool 
c d bett]2 d :at ! ne$le c d be/1 & be  
cont5t ) t4 ,t is ! way to ,art 9       
,ne$lework1 & ! sure/ way4              
,,embroid]y ,,mat]ials4   ,embroid]y is 
n among ! ?+s :i* h to be done1 & mu/ be
 done1 !re=e1 z be/ "o c d !m4 ,x is 9 !
 nature ( a sup]fluity3 ! excuse = x is 
t x is beautiful4 ,x is n wor? do+      
unless x is done well1 & 9 mat]ial wor? 
! "w done on x4 ,if y are go+ to sp5d ! 

"t y mu/ sp5d to d good "w1 x is wor?   
:ile us+ good /uff1 fooli% to use any?+ 
else4 ,! /uff ne$ n be co/ly1 b x %\ld  
be ! be/ ( its k9d2 & x %\ld be *os5 )  
ref]5ce to ! "w to be done on x1 & vice 
v]sa4 ,a mean gr\nd-/uff sugge/s1 if x  
does n necessitate1 its be+ embroid]$   
all ov]1 gr\nd-"w z well z patt]n2 a    
wor?i] "o1 t x %\ld n be hidd5 altoge!r 
f view2 a really beautiful "o1 t en\gh (
 x %\ld be left b>e ( ornam5t t its     
quality may be appreciat$4  ,sid5ote3   
,,/uffs4  ,x goes )\t say+1 t = big1    
bold /it*+ a proportionately co>se      
gr\nd-/uff %\ld be us$1 & = delicate "w1
 "o ( f9] texture2 :e!r x be l951 wooll5
 clo?1 or silk1 y\r purpose w det]m9e4  
,l95 is a wor?y gr\nd-/uff1 :i* may be  
work$ on ) flax ?read1 crewel1 or silk1 
b !y %\ld n be mix$4 ,cotton is h>dly   
wor? embroid]+4 ,( wooll5 /uffs1 good   
pla9 clo? is an excell5t gr\nd = "w 9   
wool or silk1 b x is n pleasant to ! t\*
 9 work+4 ,s]ge1 if n too loose1 may    
s]ve = curta9s & ! l1 b x is n s well   

wor? work+ ^u4 ,felt is b5ea? contempt4 
,! nobl] ! mat]ial1 ! m ess5tial x is t 
x %\ld be ( ! be/4 ,poor sat9 is n good 
en\gh to "w on2 x looks poor] ?an ev] :5
 x is embroid]$4  ,sat9 %\ld be /ret*$  
^u ! frame ! way ( ! /uff1 & x %\ld n be
 =gott5 t x has a "r & a wrong way up4  
,if x is back$1 ! l95 %\ld be f9e &     
smoo?3 on a co>se back+1 ! sat9 gets    
quickly worn away1 z y may see 9 _m a   
piece ( old "w t has gone ragg$4  ,roman
 sat9 & :at is call$ sat9 de luxe       
7p]haps because x is n s luxuri\s z x   
pret5ds to be7 are effective gr\nd-/uffs
 easy to "w ^u2 b !re is an od\r (      
pret5ce ab\t sat9-fac$ cotton4  ,a cord$
 silk is n good to embroid]2 ! "w on x  
looks h>d2 b a close twill answ]s v     
well4 ,silk damask makes an admirable   
gr\nd beautifully brok5 9 col\r1 if only
 x is simple & broad en\gh 9 patt]n4    
,g5]ally speak+1 y c h>dly *oose a      
design too big & flat2 b some?+ dep5ds  
^u ! "w to be done on x4 ,9 any case1 ! 
patt]n ( ! damask ought n to ass]t      

itself1 & if y c't make out its details1
 s mu* ! bett]4  ,brocade ass]ts itself 
too mu* to =m a good backgr\nd4 ,!re is 
a practice ( embroid]+ ! outl9es1 or    
c]ta9 details only1 ( damask & brocade  
patt]ns4 ,t is a fair way ( fur!r enri*+
 a ri* /uff2 b x is embroid]y m]ely 9 ! 
s5se t x is lit]ally embroid]$3 !       
ne$lework is only supplem5t>y to weav+4 
,tussah silk ( ! f9] sort is easy to "w 
9 ! h&4 ,! ?9n] & loos] quality ne$s to 
be work$ 9 a frame1 & ) smoo? silk n    
tightly twi/$4  ,sid5ote3 ,,?read4  ,)  
reg>d to ! ?read to "w )3 ,! co>s] k9ds 
( flax are be/ wax$ be=e us+4 ,! crewel 
to be pref]r$ is t n too tightly twi/$4 
,filoselle is well adapt$ to c\*+1 & may
 be laid d\ble 7#bd ?reads74 ,fr5* floss
 is smoo?1 & does well = laid "w2 = f9e 
"w bobb9 floss1 or :at is call$ *ur*    
floss1 is bett]2 ! slight twi/ 9        
filo-floss is aga9/ x2 v ?ick floss may 
be us$ = ,fr5* knots4  ,= c\*+ gold1 a v
 f9e twi/$ silk does well4 ,purse silk1 
?ick & twi/$1 l5ds itself p]fectly to   

basket "w4 ,work+ 9 col\r$ silks1 "o    
%\ld take advantage ( ! quality ( pure  
transp>5t col\r :i* silk takes 9 ! dye+4
 ,! palette ( ! embroid]] 9 silk is     
sup]latively ri*4  ,sid5ote3 ,,gold4  ,!
 pure/ gold is g5]ally made on a        
f\ndation ( r$ silk4 ,japanese gold does
 n t>ni% s readily z pass+1 :i* is 9 "s 
respects sup]ior to x4 ,= /it*+ ?r\gh1  
!re is a f9] ?read1 call$ tamb\r4 ,flat 
gold wire is kn[n by ! "n ( plate1 &    
v>i\s twi/$ ?reads by ! "n ( purl4      
,sid5ote3 ,,*5ille4  ,a n v promis+     
sub/ance to embroid] ) is *5ille4 ,x    
came into use 9 ! latt] half ( ! #ag?   
c5tury1 & 0 /ill 9 fa%ion 9 ! "t ( ,m>ie
 ,anto9ette4 ,! use ( x is %[n 9        
,illu/ration #ge1 :]e ! d>k] t\*es ( !  
roses are work$ 9 x4 ,*5ille seems to h 
be5 us$ in/ead ( smoo? silk1 mu* z 9    
c]ta9 old-fa%ion$ wat]-col\r pa9t+s gum 
0 us$ ) ! pa9t1 or ov] x1 to deep5 !    
%ad[s4 ,! mat]ial is us$ aga9 9 ! wrea? 
on ,illu/ration #gf4 ,x is work$ !re 9  
*a9-/it* ) ! tamb\r ne$le3 x may also be

 work$ 9 sat9-/it*2 b ! m obvi\s way (  
us+ x is to c\* x1 cord by cord1 ) f9e  
silk ?read4 ,!re is ?is aga9/ *5ille1 t 
its texture is n sympa!tic to ! t\*1 & t
 !re is a /uffy look ab\t x always4 ,nor
 does x seem ev] q to belong to ! smoo? 
sat9 gr\nd on :i* x is work$4  ,sid5ote3
 ,,ribbon4  ,sid5ote3 ,,%ad$ ,,silk4    
,!re is less objection to embroid]y 9   
ribbon1 :i* also _h its day 9 ! #ah?    
c5tury4 ,x 0 v mu* ! fa%ion = c\rt      
dresses "u ,l\is ,seize--,brod]ie de    
faveur1 z x 0 call$1 :5ce our lady's    
fav\r--faveur be+ a n>r[ ribbon4 ,"s    
beautiful "w ( its k9d 0 done 9 ribbon1 
sometimes %ad$4 ,%ad$ silk1 by ! way1   
may be us$ to arti/ic purpose4 ,!re is1 
= example1 9 ! treasury ( ,seville      
,ca!dral a piece ( "w on velvet1 #ac?   
c5tury1 x is said1 r ,p]sian 9 "*1 9 :i*
 ! =ms ( c]ta9 nondescript animals are  
at fir/ sight puzzl+ly prismatic 9      
col\r4 ,!y turn out to be r\ghly work$ 9
 %ort /it*es ( p>ti-col\r$ silk ?read4  
,! result is n altoge!r beautiful1 b x  

is extremely sugge/ive4  ,sid5ote3      
,,ribbon4  ,! effect ( ribbon "w is     
happie/ :5 x is n sewn ?r\gh ! /uff aft]
 ! mann] ( sat9 /it*1 b lies on !       
surface ( ! sat9 gr\nd1 & is only j     
caught d[n at ! ends ( ! loops :i* g to 
make leaves & petals4 ,! twi/ ( ! ribbon
 :]e x turns gives int]e/ to ! surface (
 ! embroid]y1 :i* is always m or less 9 
relief ^u ! /uff1 easy to cru%1 & (     
limit$ use !re=e4  ,illu/ration3 #id4   
,,lea!r ,,applique ,,^u ,,velvet4  ,an  
effect ( ribbon "w1 b ( a h>d] k9d1 0   
produc$ by onlay+ n>r[ /rips ( c>d or   
p>*m5t ^u a silk5 gr\nd1 twi/$ ab\t aft]
 ! fa%ion ( ribbon4 ,^!1 hav+ be5 /it*$ 
9 place1 7 work$ ov] 9 sat9-/it*4 ,! "w 
has ! m]it ( look+ j l :at x is4 ,b     
nei!r x nor ribbon embroid]y is ( any v 
s]i\s acc\nt4  ,pass+ ref]5ce has be5   
made to o!r mat]ials to embroid] ) ?an  
?read4 ,gold wire1 = example1 &         
spangles1 coral & pe>ls1 :i* h be5 us$ )
 admirable discretion1 z well z to vulg>
 purpose4 ,jewels also 7 lavi%$ ^u !    

embroid]y ( bi%ops' mitres1 gloves & o!r
 significant app>el1 & 9 default ( real 
/ones1 imitations 9 glass1 & ev5tually  
beads 7or pe>ls7 ( glass1 9 :i* we h    
possibly ! orig9 ( knots4 ,bead         
embroid]y is at lea/ z old z anci5t     
,egypt4 ,ev5 atoms ( look+-glass1 sewn  
r\nd ) silk1 h be5 us$ to really        
beautiful effect 7b>b>ic ?\gh x may be7 
9 ,indian "w4 ,! "q almo/ occurs3 ) :at 
c "o n embroid]8 ,9 ,madras !y produce  
mo/ brilliant embroid]y ^u musl9 ) !    
cases ( beetles' w+s4 ,9 ! ,mauritius !y
 use fi%-scales2 9 ,nor? ,am]ica1       
porcup9e quills2 & ev]y:]e savage tribes
 use se$s1 %ells1 fea!rs1 & ! tee? &    
claws ( animals4  ,to return to m       
civilis$ "w1 !re is embroid]y 9 gold &  
silv] wire1 alli$ to ! art ( ! goldsmi?1
 & on lea!r 7,illu/ration #id71 alli$ to
 ! art ( ! saddl]4 ,x w\ld be difficult 
to set any limit to ! directions 9 :i*  
embroid]y may bran* out1 impossible to  
describe !m all4 ,happily1 x is n       
necess>y4 ,a skill$ work] adapts h]self 

to new conditions1 & ! conditions       
!mselves dictate ! necess>y modification
 ( ! famili> way4     ,a ,,^w ,,to ,,!  
,,work]4   ,a good workwoman w n encumb]
 h]self ) too _m tools2 b %e w n %irk ! 
exp5se ( necess>y implem5ts1 ! simple/  
by pref]5ce1 & ! be/ t are made4        
,sid5ote3 ,,ne$les4  ,embroid]y ne$les  
%\ld h l>ge eyes2 ! silk is n rubb$ 9   
?read+ !m1 & !y make way = ! ?read to   
pass smoo?ly ?r\gh ! /uff4 ,= work+ 9   
twi/$ silk1 ! eye %\ld be r\ndi%2 = flat
 silk1 long2 = surface /it*+ or         
int]lac+1 a blunt tape/ry ne$le is be/2 
= c>ry+ cord or gold ?read ?r\gh ! /uff1
 a rug ne$le4  ,sid5ote3 ,,?imble4  ,= a
 ?imble1 *oose an old "o t has be5 worn 
q smoo?4  ,sid5ote3 ,,scissors4  ,=     
scissors1 be sure & h a /rong1 %ort1 %>p
 & po9t$ pair--! surgical in/rum5t1 n ! 
fancy article4 ,nail scissors w\ld n be 
amiss b = ! r\ghness ( ! file on !      
blades4  ,sid5ote3 ,,p9s4  ,= p9s1 use  
always /eel ones2 & = tacks1 ^? :i* h   
be5 t9n$2 or !y w leave _! m>k beh9d !m4

  ,sid5ote3 ,,frames4  ,= a frame1 get !
 be/ y c af=d2 a *eap "o is no economy2 
b a /& = x is n always necess>y4 ,x %\ld
 be r wid] ?an might seem necess>y1 z ! 
"w %\ld nev] ext5d to ! full wid? ( !   
webb+4 ,a tamb\r frame is also useful1  
?\gh y h no int5tion ( do+ tamb\r "w4   
,sid5ote3 ,,to ,,/ret* ,,silk4  ,9      
/ret*+ silk 7n back$ ) l957 ^u a frame1 
"s prelim9>y c>e is necess>y4 ,! /uff   
%\ld fir/ be bord]$ ) /rips ( l95 or    
/rong tape1 & into ! two sides ( ?is    
bord] :i* are to be lac$ up a /\t /r+   
%\ld be tack$1 to prev5t x f giv+ :5 !  
"w is drawn tight4  ,sid5ote3 ,,fram+4  
,! way to put embroid]y mat]ial 7?us    
bord]$ or n7 into a frame is3 fir/ to   
sew x to ! webb+ 7top & bottom71 !n to  
put ! la?s or screws into ! b>s1 tight5+
 !m ev5ly1 & la/ly to lace x to ! sides 
) f9e /r+ & a pack+ ne$le4  ,sid5ote3   
,,transf]r+4  ,! ord9>y ways ( transf]r+
 a design to embroid]y mat]ial are well 
kn[n3 ! outl9e may be trac$ d[n ) a po9t
 ov] transf] pap]2 x may be prick$ ^u   

pap] & p\nc$ ^u ! /uff 9 *alk or *>coal1
 & !n trac$ 9 ) a bru% or p52 or x 7/ill
 ! outl9e only7 may be /5cill$4 ,9 any  
case1 ! outl9e m>k$ ^u ! /uff %\ld be   
well )9 :at is to be ! actual outl9e ( !
 embroid]y :5 work$4 ,ano!r way1 m      
peculi>ly adapt$ to ne$lework1 is to    
trace ! outl9e 9 ink ^u f9e t>latan 7l5o
 musl9 w d = v co>se "w71 &1 hav+ laid  
?is d[n ^u ! /uff1 to g ov] ! l9es aga9 
) a rul+ p5 & ,indian ink or col\r4 ,on 
a light /uff x is possible to use1      
in/ead ( a p51 a h>d p5cil4 ,on a d>k   
mat]ial "o mu/ use ,*9ese :ite1 to :i* x
 is well to add1 n only a little gum    
7arabic71 b a trace ( ox-gall1 to make x
 "w easily4 ,"o gets by ?is me?od       
naturally r a rott5 l9e ^u ! gr\nd-/uff1
 b x is en\gh = all practical purposes4 
,sid5ote3 ,,keep+ ,,clean4  ,delicate "w
 is easily rubb$ & soil$ 9 ! work+4 ,x  
is only reasonable precaution to protect
 x by a veil or cov]+ ( ?91 s(t1 :ite   
glaz$ l9+1 tack$ r\nd ! edges on to !   
/uff4 ,on ?is y m>k ! f\r l9es inclos+ !

 actual embroid]y1 &1 cutt+ ?r\gh ?ree (
 !m1 y h a flap ( l9+1 :i* y raise &    
turn back :5 y are at "w4 ,if ! "w is v 
delicate1 y may make in/ead ( "o flap a 
succession ( little ones2 b y see !n    
only a portion ( y\r "w at a "t1 & _c s 
well judge its effect4  ,sid5ote3 ,,/>t+
 ,,& ,,f9i%+4  ,9 />t+ "w1 d n beg9 by  
mak+ a knot 9 y\r ?read2 run a few      
/it*es 7pres5tly to be work$ ov]7 on !  
"r side ( ! /uff4 ,9 f9i%+1 y run !m at 
! back ( ! /uff2 = great] security /ill1
 "o may end ) a buttonhole-/it*4        
,sid5ote3 ,,puck]+4  ,!re is less dang] 
( puck]+ ! /uff if y hold x ov] two f+]s
 7at lea/71 keep+ x taut & ! ?read      
loose4  ,work+ )\t a frame1 x (t5 comes 
h&ie/ to hold ! /uff askew1 & !re is a  
natural incl9ation to pull x 9 t        
direction4 ,?is temptation mu/ be       
resi/$1 or puck]+ is sure to result4    
,sid5ote3 ,,d\ble ,,?read4  ,9 work+ )  
d\ble silk or wool1 x is bett] n to     
d\ble back a s+le ?read1 b to pass two  
sep>ate ?reads ?r\gh ! eye ( ! ne$le4 ,!

 f\r ?reads 7:]e ^! are turn$ back ne> !
 eye7 make way ?r\gh ! /uff = ! d\ble   
?read1 :i* passes easily2 moreov]1 !    
?read by ?is means is n pull$ too tight1
 & ! effect is ri*]4  ,! /it* wants     
always adaptation to ! "w x has to d4 ,9
 work+ a curv$ l9e1 = example1 say 9    
h]r+-bone-/it*1 "o is b\nd always to    
take up a l>g] piece ( /uff on its      
outside ?an on its inn] edge4  ,:5 a    
?read runs %ort1 x is bett] n to g on   
work+ ) x1 b to take ano!r2 & 9 f9i%+   
(f1 rememb] to run ! ?read 9 ! direction
 opposite to t f :i* y are go+ to run ! 
new "o4 ,9 />t+ ! new /it*1 y naturally 
br+ y\r ne$le out z if x 7 a cont9uation
 ( t la/ made4  ,sid5ote3 ,,undo+4  ,if 
y\r "w is faulty1 cut x out & d x aga94 
,unpick+ is n s satisfactory3 x loos5s !
 /uff to drag ! ?read back ?r\gh x1 & ! 
?read sav$ is ( no fur!r use4 ,beg9n]s  
f9d x h>d to undo "w once done2 b a     
really good ne$lewoman nev] hesitates   
ab\t x--h] "o ?\ght is to get ! ?+ "r4  
,don't break y\r ?read ev]3 t pulls x   

out ( condition3 cut x always4  ,9      
work+1 x is well to keep /rictly to !   
/it* y h *os51 b n to ! po9t ( bigotry4 
,"o may f9i% (f d>n+1 = example1 at !   
edges ) a sat9 /it*4 ,! ?+ to avoid is  
fudg+4 ,moreov]1 /it*es %\ld be laid "r 
at once2 !re %\ld be no boggl+ & bot*+1 
no work+-ov] ) /it*es to make good--t is
 n play+ fair4  ,sid5ote3 ,,smoo?+4  ,:5
 ! ne$lework is done1 d n f9i% x ) a    
flat iron4 ,t f9i%es x 9 m s5ses ?an "o4
 ,b suppose x is puck]$8 ,9 t case1     
/ret* x & damp x4 ,to d ?is1 fir/ tack  
on to x 7z expla9$ on page #bea7 a frame
 ( /rong tape4 ,!n1 on a draw+-bo>d or  
o!r ev5 wood5 surface1 lay a piece (    
clean calico1 & on t1 face d[nw>ds1 !   
embroid]y1 &1 slightly /ret*+ x1 nail x 
d[n by ! tape ) t9-tacks r close toge!r4
 ,if n[ y lay ^u x a damp clo?1 !       
embroid]y w absorb ! moi/ure f x1 & :5 t
 is remov$1 %\ld dry z flat z x is      
possible to get x4  ,a r m d>+ plan is  
to damp ! back ( ! /uff ) a wet sponge4 
,! "w1 in/ead ( be+ nail$ on to a bo>d1 

may j z well be lac$ to a frame by !    
tape4 ,9 ! case ( rais$ embroid]y !re   
mu/ be betwe5 x & ! wood1 n a clo?      
m]ely1 b a lay] ( wadd+4  ,! damp+ above
 describ$ may take ! =m ( a ?9 pa/e or  
/iff5+1 b ^u silk or o!r su* mat]ial ?is
 wants t5d]ly do+4  ,"o la/ ^w z to     
?or\ghness 9 ne$lework4 ,^? :o h really 
n "t to d mu*1 %\ld be satisfi$ ) simple
 "w4 ,! desire to make a great %[ )     
little "w is a sn>e4 ,ladies make prote/
 always1 ,!re is too mu* "w 9 t4 ,well1 
if !y are n prep>$ to "w1 !y may z well 
give !mselves up to _! play4 ,!re 0 no  
lab\r %irk$ 9 ! old "w illu/rat$ 9 ^!   
pages2 & no?+ mu* wor? do+ 0 ev] done   
)\t "w1 h>d "w1 & pl5ty ( x4 ,%\ld t    
?\ght fright5 folk away1 !y may z well  
be sc>$ (f at once4 ,art c d v well )\t 
!m4         ,,index4       ,,adaptation 
( /it*1 #ajc1 #ahh1 #bec      ,,antique 
/it*1 #ff       7,see also              
,ori5tal-/it*7      ,,applique1 #adj1   
#add et seq41 #bbj1 #bbb1 #bbd          
,,arab "w1 #aeb      ,,artless art1 #cg1

 #bcf      ,,atta*m5t ( cord1 #abd      
,,back/it*1 #cj1 #cg1 #da1 #ec1 #hc1    
#hf1 #agb1 #bbf1 #bcj      ,,basket     
patt]ns1 #acd      ,,beads1 #bdh        
,,beg9n+  ,,f9i%+1 #beb                 
,,blanket-,,/it*1 #ef                   
,,braid-,,/it*1 #db1 #dc      ,,broad   
surfaces 7cov]+71 #agh      ,,brocade1  
#bdd      ,,bullion1 #afe               
,,bullion-,,/it*1 #ge1 #gf1 #afb1 #afe  
,,buttonhole-,,/it*1 #h1 #ee et seq41   
#fi1 #abb1 #ade1 #aeh1 #agh1 #ahb       
,,buttonhol+ 7lace71 #hd1 #hf           
,,byzant9e embroid]y1 #ab1 #bd          
,,cable-,,*a91 #db      ,,canvas1 #g1   
#be      ,,canvas /it*es1 #ab et seq4   
,,canvas-,,/it* embroid]y1 #bb          
,,c>d und]lay1 #afb1 #bdf      ,,ca%m]e 
embroid]y1 #bbh      ,,ca%m]e-,,/it*1   
#ah      ,,*a9-,,/it*1 #ch et seq41 #fa1
 #hc1 #abi1 #ade1 #aef1 #aeh1 #agh1     
#ahb1         #bjb1 #bbf1 #bde          
,,*5ille1 #bde      ,,*9ese embroid]y1  
#gh1 #if1 #abi1 #acf1 #adj1 #aeb        
,,*ur* "w1 #da1 #acf1 #adh1 #aff1 #baf  

et seq4      ,,classification ( /it*es1 
#i1 #age et seq4      ,,clo?1 #abe1     
#abf1 #aei1 #bdc      ,,col\r1 #aaj1    
#bjh      ,,col\r gradation1 #ih1 #aad1 
#aah      ,,col\r & outl9e1 #adf1 #ahe  
,,comb9ation ( /it*es1 #ahb             
,,coptic embroid]y1 #ab1 #bbf           
tape/ry1 #b      ,,coral1 #aff1 #bdh    
,,cord1 #abb           7c\*$71 #abh1    
#add1 #agh1 #ahb           7atta*m5t (71
 #abd      ,,cotton1 #bdc      ,,c\*$   
cord1 #abh1 #add1 #agh1 #ahb            
gold1 #aca et seq41 #ahb                
outl9e1 #adf      ,,c\*+1 #bb1 #aad1    
#abj1 #aba1 #abb et seq41 #bdd          
7rev]se71 #acj      ,,c\nt]*ange1 #aed  
,,cretan embroid]y1 #ab                 
,,cretan-,,/it*1 #fa       7,see also   
,ladd]-/it*7      ,,crewel1 #bdd        
,,crewel-,,/it*1 #bf et seq41 #hc1 #hf1 
#ajc1 #aje1 #agh                        
7surface71 #hf      ,,crewel "w1 #bf1   
#cf1 #cg      ,,cross-,,/it*1 #ab1 #ad1 
#af      ,,cross$ buttonhole-/it*1 #ef  
,,cu%ion-,,/it*1 #bj1 #ba               

,,cut-,,"w1 #aef       ,,damask1 #bdc1  
#bdd      ,,damp+1 #bed1 #bee           
,,d>n+1 #h1 #bb1 #hc1 #ij1 #ajf et seq41
 #agh1 #agi              7,japanese71   
#hf              7surface71 #hd         
,,design1 #aej1 #bai1 #bcc et seq4      
traditional1 #bch1 #bdj      ,,design & 
/it*1 #aj1 #bch      ,,design] &        
embroid]]1 #bcb1 #bcc      ,,diap]s1    
#hg1 #hh1 #ajh1 #acb1 #acd1 #baj        
,,direction ( /it*1 #ib1 #ie1 #ajh1     
#aad1 #acf1 #aij1 #bjh et seq4          
,,d\ble d>n+1 #ajf            ?read1    
#bec      ,,dovetail-,,/it*1 #ajc1 #ajd 
7,see also ,embroid]y & ,plumage        
,/it*es7      ,,draw+ ) ! ne$le1 #aib1  
#aid1 #aif1 #aii1 #baa      ,,drawn "w1 
#b1 #d       ,,ea/]n embroid]y4         
7,see ,ori5tal7      ,,effect & /it*1   
#cf1 #gh      ,,eighte5? c5tury         
embroid]y1 #bbj1 #bdf      ,,embroid]y &
 pa9t+1 #bja1 #bjb                      
,,embroid]y-,,/it*1 #ajc       7,see    
also ,plumage-/it*7      ,,engli%       
embroid]y1 #cd1 #cf1 #afi               

,,fea!r-,,/it*1 #fb et seq41 #hc1 #ajj1 
#agh      ,,felt1 #bdc      ,,fifte5?   
c5tury embroid]y1 #bd1 #afd             
,,figure "w1 #aaf1 #afi1 #aij1 #aih et  
seq4      ,,fill+-,,9 patt]ns1 #bd      
,,filo-,,floss1 #afd1 #bdd              
,,filoselle1 #abd1 #add1 #bdd           
,,fi%bone1 #ba1 #dg1 #ea      ,,flax    
?read1 #afd1 #bdd      ,,flemi%         
embroid]y1 #adb1 #bjj      ,,fle%1 #bjd1
 #bjf      ,,flor5t9e-,,/it*1 #ah1 #ba  
7,see also ,cu%ion /it*7      ,,floss1  
#ie1 #aad1 #aaf1 #aah1 #abj1 #bdd       
,,=m & /it*1 #dd1 #dg1 #ajj1 #aah1 #agf1
 #baa1 #bec      ,,fram+ "w1 #bea       
,,fr5* embroid]y1 #hh1 #bde             
floss1 #bdd            knots1 #gg1 #abi1
 #aej1 #agh1 #bdd       ,,geometric     
patt]n1 #bbe      ,,g]man embroid]y1    
#aaj1 #abe1 #abf1 #aef1 #ahe1 #bbf      
,,g]man knot-/it*1 #gb                  
,,gobel9-,,/it*1 #ah      ,,gold1 #baj1 
#bbb1 #bde           7c\*$71 #aca et    
seq41 #ahb           7rais$71  #acd1    
#acf1 #afe      ,,gold ?read1 #aca1 #bde

          t9t$ by c\*+ /it*es1 #adb     
wire1 #afi1 #bdh                        
,,half-,,cross-,,/it*1 #bj              
,,h]aldic embroid]y1 #aef               
,,h]r+bone-,,/it*1 #h1 #bb1 #dg et seq41
 #hc1 #agh1 #ahb      ,,hilde%eim cope  
7!71 #abf      ,,hung>ian embroid]y1 #b 
/it*1 #ah       ,,indian embroid]y1 #da1
 #df1 #fa1 #ie1 #ih1 #aed1 #afi1 #bbb1  
#bdh      ,,indian h]r+-bone1 #dh       
,,inlay1 #aec      ,,int]lac+ /it*es1   
#hc      ,,italian embroid]y1 #bb1 #bd1 
#cg1 #df1 #ach      ,,italian embroid]y 
7,r5aissance71 #bb1 #da1 #abj1 #adb1    
#aed1 #aii       ,,japanese d>n+1 #hf1  
#hg              embroid]y1 #hj         
gold1 #bde      ,,jewels1 #afe1 #bdh    
,,knot /it*es1 #gb et seq41 #ahb        
,,lace1 #a1 #b      ,,lace /it*es1 #hd  
et seq4      ,,ladd]-,,/it*1 #ei1 #fa1  
#ahb      ,,laid-,,"w1 #aab et seq41    
#afb1 #agh      ,,lea!r1 #bdh           
,,lea!r on velvet1 #aej      ,,l5g? (   
/it*1 #if1 #ajj      ,,limitations (    
embroid]y1 #bdj      ,,l9e "w1 #agf1    

#agh      ,,l951 #afd1 #bdc             
7embroid]y on71 #bd                     
,,long-,,&-,,%ort-,,/it*1 #cf1 #ih1     
#ajj1 #agh1 #aij1 #aib                  
,,magic-,,/it*1 #da      ,,mat]ial      
7influ5ce ( on /it*71 #ab1 #ac1 #af1    
#ah1 #bd1 #hh1 #ia      ,,mat]ials1 #bdb
 et seq4      ,,me*anical embroid]y1    
#bbe      ,,m$iaeval "w1 #ib1 #acf1     
#adj1 #aij      ,,milanese-,,/it*1 #ah  
,,modell+1 #bbb      ,,mode/ "w1 #bcj1  
#bca      ,,moori%-,,/it*1 #ah1 #ba     
,,morocco embroid]y1 #aeb       ,,ne$le 
7tamb\r71 #ch1 #bde      ,,ne$le        
pictures1 #bja      ,,ne$les1 #bej      
,,net pass+1 #hf       ,,old ,,engli%   
,,knot-,,/it*1 #ge      ,,opus          
,anglicanum1 #i      ,,ori5tal          
embroid]y1 #b1 #bb1 #fa1 #ib1 #aab1     
#acf1 #adj1 #aec1 #bbf                  
/it*1 #ff et seq41 #hc1 #agh1 #ahb      
,,orig9ality1 #bcd      ,,outl9e1 #bb1  
#gg1 #ajh1 #adf1 #aeh1 #agh1 #ahd1 #ahe 
et seq4              7c\*$71 #abf1 #abh1
 #adf              7d\ble71 #adf1 #ahe1 

#ahf              7/epp$71 #af1 #bd     
7void$71 #if1 #ahg      ,,outl9e        
embroid]y1 #ach             /it*1 #bi1  
#cj1 #cb1 #hf       ,,padd+1 #aei1 #agb 
,,pa9t+1 #bja1 #bjb      ,,p>*m5t1 #afj1
 #afh1 #bdf      ,,p>isian-,,/it*1 #ah  
,,pat*work1 #aef      ,,pe>ls1 #afe1    
#aff1 #bdh      ,,peasant "w1 #ab1 #ac1 
#bbf      ,,p]sian embroid]y1 #g1 #bd1  
#da1 #agd1 #bbh      ,,pictorial effect1
 #aih1 #aii1 #bja      ,,pictures       
7t5t-/it*71 #ad1 #bj      ,,pi]ce1 #acb 
,,p9s1 #adf1 #bej      ,,plait-,,/it*1  
#ba      ,,plate1 #bde                  
,,plumage-,,/it*1 #fb1 #ajj1 #ajc1 #agh1
 #agi1 #aib1 #bab      ,,preci\sness1   
#aih      ,,purl1 #bde      ,,purse     
silk1 #aaf1 #afb       ,,quilt+1 #agb et
 seq4       ,,rais$ gold1 #acd1 #acf1   
#afe et seq4            "w1 #acd1 #acf1 
#aei et seq4      ,,relief1 #aei et     
seq41 #aff1 #afh1 #afi1 #agb1 #bbb      
,,r5aissance embroid]y1 #da1 #ib1 #adb1 
#aed1 #aff      ,,r5ew+ gr\nd1 #abf     
,,rev]se-c\*+1 #acj      ,,ribbon1 #aej1

 #bdf      ,,ribbon "w1 #bdf            
,,roll-,,/it*1 #ge       7,see also     
,bullion-/it*7      ,,roman sat91 #bdc  
,,rope-,,/it*1 #ga et seq41 #agh        
,,runn+1 #hc1 #ajf1 #agi       ,,sat91  
#bdc           de luxe1 #bdc            
on velvet1 #aej      ,,sat9-,,/it*1 #bd1
 #ia et seq41 #ajc1 #aab1 #abh1 #aeh1   
#afj1         #afb1 #age1 #agh1 #ahb1   
#aib1 #bjf1 #bab1 #bde                  
,,sat9-,,/it* 7surface71 #ih1 #bhb      
,,sat9-,,/it* 9 ! mak+1 #ia             
,,scissors1 #bej      ,,s]ge1 #bdc      
,,sev5te5? c5tury embroid]y1 #ad1 #aff  
,,%ad$ silk1 #bdf      ,,%ad+1 #cd1     
#agf1 #ahh et seq4      ,,silk1 #adf1   
#bdc           7tussah71 #bdd           
7twi/$71 #ie1 #abd1 #abe           on   
silk1 #aej      ,,silks1 #bdd           
,,silv]1 #ace1 #ach1 #aff               
,,simplicity1 #ahj1 #bcf1 #bch          
7a plea =71 #bbe et seq4      ,,sixte5? 
c5tury embroid]y1 #bb1 #abj1 #abe1 #adb1
 #ahe1 #aii      ,,solid *a9-/it*1 #dc1 
#dd           crewel-/it*1 #cb1 #cd     

,,s\danese embroid]y1 #aab              
,,spangles1 #afi1 #bdh      ,,spani%    
embroid]y1 #abi1 #adb1 #aed1 #aff1 #ahe 
,,spani%-,,/it*1 #ah1 #bb 7,see also    
,plait-/it*7      ,,split-,,/it*1 #ch1  
#ajj1 #aje1 #aad1 #agi1 #aij1 #aif1 #bbb
      ,,spot-,,/it*1 #cj                
,,/em-,,/it*1 #cb      ,,/ems1 #ie      
,,/epp$ outl9e1 #af1 #bd      ,,/iletto1
 #agd      ,,/it* 7def9ition (71 #aa    
adaptation1 #ajc1 #ahh1 #bec            
& effect1 #cf1 #gh            & =m1 #dd1
 #dg1 #ajj1 #aah1 #agf1 #baa1 #bec      
& /uff1 #ab1 #ac1 #af1 #ah1 #bd1 #hh1   
#ia            gr\ps1 #i1 #age et seq4  
names1 #h1 #i            patt]ns1 #hg1  
#hh            & design1 #aj1 #bch      
,,/it*es1 #g      ,,/it*+ ov] /it*+1    
#bae      ,,/ret*+ "w1 #bea1 #bed       
,,/r+1 #aei1 #afj1 #afb                 
,,/roke-,,/it*1 #af      ,,/uffs1 #bdb  
,,surface crewel-/it*1 #hf              
d>n+1 #hd             sat9-/it*1 #ih1   
#ahb             /it*es1 #hd      ,,syon
 ,,cope 7!71 #g1 #acj1 #baj             

,,tailors' buttonhole1 #ef              
,,tamb\r1 #bde              frame1 #dd  
ne$le1 #ch1 #bde              /it*1 #ch 
"w1 #dd1 #aid      ,,tape/ry1 #a1 #b1   
#d1 #adc1 #bbj      ,,tape/ry-,,/it*1   
#ec      ,,t5drils1 #acj                
,,t5t-,,/it*1 #ad1 #ah      ,,?imble1   
#bej      ,,?read1 #bdd                 
,,traditional design1 #bch1 #bdj        
,,transf]r+ design1 #bea      ,,turki%  
embroid]y1 #bb      ,,tussah silk1 #bdd 
,,twi/$ silk1 #ie1 #abd1 #abe           
,,und]lay1 #aei1 #afj1 #afe             
,,unpick+1 #bec       ,,v&yke *a91 #db  
,,v>iety ( me?od1 #adh1 #aeh            
( /it*1 #ahj et seq4      ,,velvet1     
#aej1 #bbb      ,,v5etian embroid]y1    
#ach      ,,void+1 #if1 #ahg            
,,weav+1 #b      ,,:ite on :ite1 #afb1  
#bcj      ,,wool4 7,see ,crewel7        
,,wooll5 /uffs1 #bdc      ,,! ,,end4    
,,bradbury1 ,,agnew1  ,,co4 ,,ld41      
,,pr9t]s1 ,,london ,,& ,,tonbridge4     
,a ,,li/ ,,( ,,/&>d ,,books     ,,on    
,,ornam5t  ,,decoration1     ,,includ+  

,,furniture1 ,,wood-,,c>v+1 ,,metal     
,,"w1 c41     ,,publi%$ ,,by     ,b4 ,t4
 ,,bats=d1     #id1 ,,high ,,holborn1   
,,london1 ,w4,c4   ,,w9d[s4--,a ,,book  
,,ab\t ,,/a9$ ,,& ,,pa9t$ ,,glass4 ,by  
,,lewis ,f4 ,,day4 ,conta9+ #daj pages1 
includ+ #ej full-page ,plates1 & upw>ds 
( #bjj ,illu/rations 9 ! text1 all (    
,old ,examples4 ,l>ge #hvo1 clo? gilt4  
,price #bas4 net4      ,conta9s a m     
complete popul> acc\nt--te*nical &      
hi/orical--( /a9$ & pa9t$ glass ?an has 
previ\sly     appe>$ 9 ?is c\ntry4--,!  
,times4      ,! book is a ma/]piece 9   
its way 444 amply illu/rat$ &           
c>efully pr9t$2 x w long rema9 an       
au?ority on its     subject4--,! ,art   
,j\rnal4      ,all = :om ! subject (    
/a9$ glass possesses an int]e/ &     a  
*>m1 w p]use ^! pages ) pleasure &      
pr(it4--,!     ,morn+ ,po/4      ,mr4   
,day has done a wor?y piece ( "w 9 m ?an
 8 usual     admirable mann] 444 !      
illu/rations are all good & "s !     be/
 black-&-:ite draw+s ( /a9$ glass yet   

produc$4--,!     ,/udio4  ,n[ ,publi%$1 
! mo/ h&y1 useful1 & compreh5sive "w on 
! subject4   ,,alphabets1 ,,old ,,&     
,,new4 ,conta9+ #aej complete           
,alphabets1 #cj ,s]ies ( ,num]als1      
,num]\s ,facsimiles ( ,anci5t ,dates4   
,select$ & arrang$ by ,,lewis ,f4 ,,day4
 ,prec$$ by a %ort acc\nt ( !           
,developm5t ( ! ,alphabet4 ,) ,mod]n    
,examples specially ,design$ by ,walt]  
,crane1 ,patt5 ,wilson1 ,a4 ,b]es=d     
,pite1 ! ,au?or1 & o!rs4 ,cr[n #hvo1 art
 l954 ,price #cs4 #f;d4 net4      ,mr4  
,day's explanation ( ! gr[? ( =m 9      
lett]s is     p>ticul>ly valuable4444   
,_m excell5t alphabets are giv5 9       
illu/ration ( 8 rem>ks4--,! ,/udio4     
,ev]yone :o employs practical lett]+ w  
be grateful =     ',alphabets1 ,old &   
,new4' ,mr4 ,day has writt5 a s*ol>ly & 
pi?y     introduction1 & contributes "s 
beautiful alphabets ( 8 own             
design4--,! ,art ,j\rnal4      ,a       
practical resume ( all t is to be kn[n  
on ! subject1     concisely & cle>ly    

/at$4--,/4 ,james' ,gazette4      ,x    
goes )\t say+ t :atev] ,mr4 ,bats=d     
publi%es & ,mr4     ,day has to d ) is  
pres5t$ 9 a good arti/ic =m1 complete1  
& :]ev] t is possible1 graceful4--,!    
,a!naeum4   ,,ar*itecture ,,among ,,!   
,,poets4 ,by ,h4 ,,hea?cote ,,/a?am4 ,) 
#ac ,illu/rations4 ,squ>e #hvo1         
arti/ically b\nd4 ,price #cs4 #f;d4 net4
      ,?is little "w does = ar*itecture 
9 relation to ,engli%     poetry :at    
,mr4 ,phil ,rob9son has done = ! birds &
 bea/s4 ,!     poet's appreciation (    
ar*itecture is a delightful subject )   
:i* ,mr4 ,/a?am has become infect$1 n   
only illu/rat+ 8     po9ts ) quotations 
& 8 judgm5ts ) 8 reasons1 b !     :ole )
 a s]ies ( fanciful or sugge/ive sket*es
 :i* add     consid]ably to !           
attractiv5ess ( ! book4--,! ,magaz9e (  
,art4   ,,! ,,decoration ,,( ,,h\ses4   
,by ,,edi? ,,:>ton & ,,ogd5 ,,codman1   
,ar*itect4 #bjd pages ( text1 ) #ef     
full-page ,photographic ,plates ( ,views
 ( ,rooms1 ,doors1 ,ceil+s1 ,fireplaces1

 v>i\s pieces ( ,furniture1 c41 f !     
,r5aissance p]iod4 ,l>ge squ>e #hvo1    
clo? gilt1 price #abs4 #f;d4 net4  ,?is 
volume1 writt5 by an ,am]ican ,lady     
,arti/1 & an ,ar*itect1 describes &     
illu/rates 9 a v int]e/+ way !          
,decorative treatm5t ( ,rooms dur+ !    
,r5aissance p]iod1 & d$uces pr9ciples = 
! decoration1 furni%+1 & arrangem5ts (  
,mod]n ,h\ses4      444 has illu/rations
 :i* are beautiful 444 because !y       
illu/rate ! s\nd & simple pr9ciple (    
decoration :i* !     au?ors put =w>d4444
 ,! book is "o :i* %\ld be 9 !          
libr>y ( e man & woman ( means1 = its   
advice is     *>act]is$ by s mu* common 
s5se z well z by ! be/ (     ta/e4--,!  
,que54   ,,! ,,hi/oric ,,/yles ,,(      
,,ornam5t4 ,conta9+ #a1ejj examples f   
all c\ntries & all p]iods1 exhibit$ on  
#ajj ,plates1 mo/ly pr9t$ 9 gold &      
col\rs4 ,) hi/orical & descriptive text 
translat$ f ! ,g]man ( ,h4 ,,dolmets*4  
,folio1 h&somely b\nd 9 clo?1 gilt1     
price ,l#a #es4 net4  ,?is "w has be5   

design$ to s]ve z a practical guide = ! 
purpose ( %[+ ! developm5t ( ,ornam5t1 &
 ! application ( col\r to x 9 v>i\s     
c\ntries ?r\gh ! epo*s ( hi/ory4 ,! "w  
illu/rates n only ,flat ,ornam5t1 b also
 _m ,decorative ,objects1 su* z         
,,metal-,,"w1 ,,pott]y ,,& ,,porcela91  
,,lace1 ,,enamel1 ,,mosaic1             
,,illum9ation1 ,,/a9$ ,,glass1          
,,jewell]y1 ,,bookb9d+1 c41 %[+ !       
application ( ,ornam5t to ,indu/rial    
,art4   ,j ,publi%$4  ,a ,,manual ,,(   
,,hi/oric ,,ornam5t1 be+ an ,acc\nt ( ! 
,developm5t ( ,ar*itecture & ! ,hi/oric 
,arts1 = ! use ( ,/ud5ts & ,craftsm54   
,by ,,ri*>d ,,glazi]1 ,a4,r4,i4,b4,a41  
,headma/] ( ! ,man*e/] ,s*ool ( ,art4   
,conta9+ #db ,plates & #ajj             
,illu/rations 9 ! text4 ,demy #hvo1     
clo?4 ,price #es4  ,! object ( ?is book 
is to furni% /ud5ts ) a concise acc\nt (
 ,hi/oric ,ornam5t1 9 :i* ! rise ( ea*  
/yle is not$1 & its *>act]i/ic features 
illu/rat$4 ,x conta9s upw>ds ( #djj     
subjects drawn by ! au?or1 & includes   

examples ( ,ar*itectural ,detail &      
,pla/ic ,ornam5t1 ,pott]y1 ,textile     
,fabrics1 ,glass1 ,metal-"w1 ,mosaic1   
,pa9t$ ,fai5ce1 c41 c4 ( v>i\s c\ntries4
   ,a ,,manual ,,( ,,practical          
,,in/ruction ,,9 ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,brass  
,,rep\sse ,,= ,,amateurs4 ,by ,,gaw?orp 
7,art ,metal ,work] to ,h4,r4,h4 !      
,pr9ce ( ,wales74 ,second & enl>g$      
,edition4 ,) #cb ,illu/rations1 _m f    
photographs ( execut$ designs4 ,cr[n    
#hvo1 9 wrapp]4 ,price #as4 net4   ,,old
 ,,clocks ,,& ,,wat*es ,,& ,,_! ,,mak]s4
 ,by ,f4 ,j4 ,,britt51 ,secret>y ( !    
,horological ,in/itute4 ,be+ an ,acc\nt 
( ! ,hi/ory ( ,clocks & ,wat*es1 _!     
,me*anism & ,ornam5tation1 to :i* is    
app5d$ a ,li/ ( #h1jjj ,old ,mak]s1 )   
descriptive ,notes4 ,conta9+ ov] #djj   
,illu/rations1 _m reproduc$ f           
photographs1 ( *oice & curi\s examples1 
( ,clocks & ,wat*es ( ! pa/ 9 ,engl& &  
abroad1 includ+ ! f9ely-ornam5t$        
,bracket ,clocks ( ! ,x,v,i,ith ,c5tury1
 ) _! +5i\s me*anism1 & ! tall & elegant

 cases ( ! ,x,v,i,i,ith ,c5tury1 also a 
selection ( ,portraits ( ! mo/ r5[n$    
,ma/]s ( ! ,clockmak]'s ,art4 #eab      
pages4 ,demy #hvo1 clo?1 gilt4 ,price   
#ajs4 net4   ,,k+ ,,r5e',s ,,honeymoon  
,,cab9et4 ,a ,monograph4 ,by ,john ,p4  
,s$don1 ,ar*itect4 ,illu/rat$ by #aj    
photographic reproductions ( ! ,cab9et1 
& ! ,panels1 pa9t$ by ! late ,,sir ,e4  
,,burne ,,jones1 ,dante ,gabriel        
,rossetti1 & ,=d ,madox ,br[n4 ,) a     
*apt] on ! ,h]$it>y ,e>ls ( ,anj\1 by   
,g4 ,h4 ,,bir*1 ,f4,s4,a4 ,l>ge #hvo1   
clo?1 price #es4 net4  ,?is int]e/+     
little "w has be5 issu$ by ! au?or to   
make kn[n & commemorate "s e>ly designs 
by ! celebrat$ arti/s4 ,v few copies are
 pr9t$ = sale4   ,a small rema9d]1 j    
r$uc$ 9 price4  ,,animals ,,9 ,,ornam5t4
 ,by ,pr(essor ,g4 ,,/urm4 ,conta9+ #cj 
l>ge collotype plates1 pr9t$ 9 t9t1 (   
designs suitable = ,friezes1 ,panels1   
,bord]s1 ,wall-pap]s1 ,c>v+1 & all k9ds 
( ,surface ,decoration1 c4 ,l>ge folio 9
 portfolio1 price #ahs4 net 7publi%$    

,l#a #ajs474  ,a new & useful s]ies (   
clev] designs1 %[+ h[ animal =ms may be 
adapt$ to decorative purposes ) good    
effect4   ,a ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,design ,,9  
,,pa9t$ ,,glass4--,f ! ,e>lie/ ,times to
 ! end ( ! ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,by ,n4   
,h4 ,j4 ,,we/lake1 ,f4,s4,a4 ,conta9+   
#dfg illu/rations ) hi/orical text4 ,f\r
 volumes1 small folio1 clo?1 price ,l#e 
#ajs41 net ,l#d #hs4      ,v few copies 
rema9 = sale ( ?is valuable "w4   ,,mr4 
,,lewis ,f4 ,,day',s ,,text ,,books ,,( 
,,ornam5tal ,,design4  ,,"s ,,pr9ciples 
,,( ,,e-,,day ,,art4--,,introductory    
,,*apt]s ,,on ,,! ,,arts ,,n ,,f9e4 ,=m+
 a ,prefatory ,volume to ! ,s]ies (     
,text ,books4 ,second ,edition1 revis$1 
conta9+ #gj ,illu/rations 7,?ird ,?\s&74
 ,cr[n #hvo1 art l951 price #cs4 #f;d41 
net #cs4      ,au?oritative z com+ f a  
writ] ^: ma/]y ( ! subjects     is n to 
be disput$1 & :o is g5]\s 9 imp>t+ !    
k he acquir$ ) difficulty4 ,mr4 ,day has
 tak5 mu*     tr\ble ) ! new            
edition4--,ar*itect4      ,a good arti/1

 & a s\nd ?9k]1 ,mr4 ,day has produc$ a 
book (     /]l+ value4--,magaz9e ( ,art4
   ,,! ,,anatomy ,,(                    
,,patt]n4--,conta9+3 ,i4 ,introductory4 
,,ii4 ,patt]n ,dissections4 ,,iii4      
,practical ,patt]n ,plann+4 ,,iv4 ,!    
,drop ,patt]n4 ,v4 ,skeleton ,plans4    
,,vi4 ,appropriate ,patt]n4 ,f\r?       
,edition 7,n9? ,?\s&71 revis$1 ) #da    
full-page ,illu/rations4 ,cr[n #hvo1 art
 l951 price #cs4 #f;d41 net #cs4        
444 ,!re are few m5 :o "k ! sci5ce ( _! 
pr(ession     bett] or c tea* x z well z
 ,mr4 ,lewis ,day2 few also :o are     m
 gift$ z practical decorators2 & 9      
anatomis+ patt]n 9     ! way he has done
 9 ?is manual--a way beautiful z well z 
useful--he has p]=m$ a s]vice n only to 
! /ud5ts ( 8     pr(ession1 b also to ! 
public4--,academy4   ,,! ,,plann+ ,,(   
,,ornam5t4--,conta9+3 ,i4 ,introductory4
 ,,ii4 ,! ,use ( ! ,bord]4 ,,iii4 ,)9 ! 
,bord]4 ,,iv4 ,"s ,alt]natives 9        
,design4 ,v4 ,on ! ,fill+ ( ! ,circle & 
o!r ,%apes4 ,,vi4 ,ord] & ,accid5t4     

,?ird ,edition 7,fif? ,?\s&71 fur!r     
revis$1 ) #da full-page ,illu/rations1  
_m ( :i* h be5 re-drawn4 ,cr[n #hvo1 art
 l951 price #cs4 #f;d41 net #cs4        
,conta9s _m apt & well-drawn            
illu/rations2 x is a highly             
compreh5sive1 compact1 & intellig5t     
treatise on a subject :i*     is m      
difficult to treat ?an outsid]s are     
likely to ?9k4 ,x is     a capital      
little book1 f :i* no tyro 7x is        
address$ to     improvable m9ds7 c avoid
 ga9+ a good deal4--,a!naeum4   ,,!     
,,application ,,( ,,ornam5t4--,conta9+3 
,i4 ,! ,rationale ( ! ,conv5tional4     
,,ii4 ,:at is ,impli$ by ,repetition4   
,,iii4 ,:]e to ,/op 9 ,ornam5t4 ,,iv4   
,/yle & ,h&icraft4 ,v4 ,! ,tea*+ ( !    
,tool4 ,,vi4 ,"s ,sup]/itions4 ,?ird    
,edition 7,six? ,?\s&71 fur!r revis$1 ) 
#dh full-page ,illu/rations & #g        
,woodcuts 9 ! text4 ,cr[n #hvo1 art l951
 price #cs4 #f;d41 net #cs4      ,a mo/ 
wor?y supplem5t to ! =m] "w1 & a di/9ct 
ga9 to     ! art /ud5t :o has already   

appli$ 8 art k 9 a     practical mann]1 
or :o hopes yet to d s4--,sci5ce & ,art4
   ,,ornam5tal ,,design4--,compris+ !   
above ,?ree ,books1 ,,anatomy ,,(       
,,patt]n1 ,,plann+ ,,( ,,ornam5t1 &     
,,application ,,( ,,ornam5t1 h&somely   
b\nd 9 "o volume1 clo? gilt1 price #ajs4
 #f;d41 net #hs4 #f;d4   ,,nature ,,9   
,,ornam5t4--,) #abc full-page ,plates & 
#aib ,illu/rations 9 ! text4 ,?ird      
,edition 7,fif? ,?\s&74 ,?ick cr[n #hvo1
 9 h&some clo? b9d+1 ri*ly gilt1 price  
#abs4 #f;d41 net #ajs4  ,,cont5ts3 ,i4  
,introductory4 ,,ii4 ,ornam5t 9 ,nature4
 ,,iii4 ,nature 9 ,ornam5t4 ,,iv4 ,!    
,simplification ( ,natural ,=ms4 ,v4 ,! 
,elaboration ( ,natural ,=ms4 ,,vi4     
,consi/5cy 9 ! ,modification ( ,nature4 
,,vii4 ,p>allel ,r5d]+s4 ,,viii4 ,m     
,p>allels4 ,,ix4 ,tradition 9 ,design4  
,x4 ,treatm5t4 ,,xi4 ,animals 9         
,ornam5t4 ,,xii4 ,! ,elem5t ( !         
,grotesque4 ,,xiii4 ,/ill ,life 9       
,ornam5t4 ,,xiv4 ,symbolic ,ornam5t4    
,among/ ! be/ ( our few good ornam5tal  

design]s is ,mr4 ,lewis     ,f4 ,day1 :o
 is ! au?or ( sev]al books on ornam5tal 
art4     ',nature 9 ,ornam5t' is ! late/
 ( ^!1 & is probably !     be/4 ,!      
treatise %\ld be 9 ! h&s ( e /ud5t (    
ornam5tal design4 ,x is pr(usely &      
admirably illu/rat$1 &     well         
pr9t$4--,magaz9e ( ,art4      ,a book m 
beautiful = its illu/rations1 or "o m   
helpful to     ,/ud5ts ( ,art1 c h>dly  
be imag9$4--,que54   ,a ,,h&book ,,(    
,,ornam5t4--,) #cjj ,plates1 conta9+    
ab\t #c1jjj ,illu/rations ( ! ,elem5ts &
 ,application ( ,decoration to ,objects4
 ,by ,f4 ,s4 ,,mey]1 ,pr(essor at !     
,s*ool ( ,appli$ ,art1 ,k>lsruhe4 ,?ird 
,engli% ,edition1 revis$ by ,,hugh      
,,/annus1 ,lectur] on ,appli$ ,art at ! 
,royal ,college ( ,art1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton4  
,?ick #hvo1 clo? gilt1 gilt top1 price  
#abs4 #f;d41 net #ajs4      ,a ,libr>y1 
a ,museum1 an ,encyclopa$ia & an ,art   
,s*ool 9 "o4 ,to     rival x z a book ( 
ref]5ce1 "o mu/ fill a bookcase4 ,!     
quality ( ! draw+s is unusually high1 ! 

*oice ( examples is     s+ul>ly good4444
 ,! "w is practically an epitome ( a    
hundr$     ,works on ,design4--,/udio4  
,! au?or's acqua9tance ) ornam5t amazes1
 & 8 ?ree     ?\s& subjects are glean$ f
 ! f9e/ :i* ! _w     af=ds4 ,z a        
treasury ( ornam5t drawn to scale 9 all 
/yles1 &     d]iv$ f g5u9e concrete     
objects1 we h no?+ 9 ,engl&     :i* w n 
appe> z pov]ty-/rick5 z comp>$ )        
,pr(essor     ,mey]'s book4--,ar*itect4 
,! book is a m9e ( weal? ev5 to an      
ord9>y read]1 :ile to     ! ,/ud5t (    
,art & ,ar*aeology x is simply          
indisp5sable z a     ref]5ce book4 ,we  
"k ( no "o "w ( its k9d t approa*es     
x = compreh5siv5ess & hi/orical         
accuracy4--,sci5ce &     ,art4   ,a     
,,h&book ,,( ,,art ,,smi?+4--,= ! use ( 
,practical ,smi?s1 ,design]s & o!rs1 & 9
 ,art & ,te*nical ,s*ools4 ,by ,f4 ,s4  
,,mey]1 ,au?or ( ,a ,h&book ( ,ornam5t4 
,translat$ f ! ,second ,g]man ,edition4 
,) an ,introduction by ,j4 ,,/>kie      
,,g>dn]4 ,conta9+ #bad ,illu/rations4   

,demy #hvo1 clo?1 price #fs41 net #es4  
,bo? ! ,arti/ic & ,practical ,bran*es ( 
! subject are dealt )1 & ! ,illu/rations
 give select$ ,examples ( ,anci5t &     
,mod]n ,ironwork4 ,! ,volume ?us fills !
 long-exi/+ want ( a ,manual on         
,ornam5tal ,ironwork1 & x is hop$ w     
prove ( value to all int]e/$ 9 !        
subject4      ,*>m+ly produc$4444 ,x is 
really a mo/ excell5t manual1     cr[d$ 
) examples ( anci5t "w1 = ! mo/ "p      
extremely     well select$4--,! ,/udio4 
,pr(essor ,mey]'s "w is a useful        
hi/orical manual on art     smi?+1 bas$ 
on a sci5tific classification ( !       
subject1 t     w be ( s]vice to all     
smi?s1 design]s1 & /ud5ts (     te*nical
 & art s*ools4 ,! illu/rations are well 
drawn &     num]\s4--,build+ ,news4     
,publi%$ ) ! ,sanction ( ! ,sci5ce &    
,art ,dep>tm5t4   ,,fr5* ,,wood ,,c>v+s 
,,f ,,! ,,national ,,museums4--,a ,s]ies
 ( ,examples pr9t$ 9 ,collotype f       
,photographs specially tak5 f ! ,c>v+s  
direct4 ,edit$ by ,,eleanor ,,r[e4 ,"p  

,i43 ,late #ae? & ,e>ly #af? ,c5tury    
,examples2 ,"p ,,ii43 #af? ,c5tury ,"w2 
,"p ,,iii43 #ag? & #ah? ,c5turies4 ,!   
,?ree ,s]ies ,complete1 ea* conta9+ #ah 
l>ge folio ,plates1 ) descriptive       
lett]press4 ,folio1 9 portfolios1 price 
#abs4 ea* net2 or h&somely b\nd 9 "o    
volume1 ,l#b #es4 net4      ,/ud5ts ( ! 
,art ( ,wood ,c>v+ w f9d a m9e (        
inexhau/ible treasures 9 ?is s]ies (    
illu/rations ( ,fr5*     ,wood          
,c>v+s4444 ,ea* plate is a "w ( art 9   
itself2 !     di/ribution ( light & %ade
 is admirably manag$1 & !     diff]5ces 
9 relief are fai?fully indicat$1 :ile e 
detail     is reproduc$ ) a cle>ness t w
 prove invaluable to !     /ud5t4       
,sections are giv5 ) sev]al ( !         
plates4--,!     ,que54      ,ne$s only  
to be se5 to be pur*as$ by all int]e/$ 9
 !     craft1 :e!r ar*aeologically or   
practically4--,! ,/udio4   ,,h9ts ,,on  
,,wood ,,c>v+ ,,= ,,beg9n]s4--,by       
,,eleanor ,,r[e4 ,f\r? ,edition1 revis$ 
& enl>g$1 ,illu/rat$4 #hvo1 sew$1 price 

#as4 9 pap] cov]s1 or b\nd 9 clo?1 price
 #as4 #f;d4      ,! mo/ useful &        
practical small book on wood-c>v+ we "k 
(4--,build]4      444 ,is a useful      
little book1 full ( s\nd directions &   
good     sugge/ions4--,magaz9e ( ,art4  
,,h9ts ,,on ,,*ip ,,c>v+4--7,class      
,tea*+ & o!r ,nor!rn ,/yles47 ,by       
,,eleanor ,,r[e4 #dj ,illu/rations4     
#hvo1 sew$1 price #as4 9 pap] cov]s1 or 
9 clo?1 price #as4 #f;d4      ,a capital
 manual ( in/ruction 9 a craft t ought  
to be mo/     popul>4--,saturday        
,review4   ,,details ,,( ,,go?ic ,,wood 
,,c>v+4--,be+ a ,s]ies ( ,draw+s f      
orig9al "w ( ! ,f\rte5? & ,fifte5?      
,c5turies4 ,by ,,franklyn ,a4 ,,crallan4
 ,conta9+ #cd l>ge ,photo-li?ographic   
,plates1 ) introductory & descriptive   
text4 ,l>ge #dto1 9 h&some clo?         
portfolio1 or b\nd 9 clo? gilt1 price   
#bhs41 net #bbs4      ,! examples are   
c>efully drawn to a l>ge size 444 well  
select$     & v well execut$4--,!       
,build]4   ,,progressive ,,/udies ,,&   

,,designs ,,= ,,wood-,,c>v]s4 ,by ,miss 
,e4 ,r4 ,,pl[d54 ,) a ,preface by ,miss 
,,r[e4 ,consi/+ ( five l>ge fold+ %eets 
( ,illu/rations 7drawn full size71 ( a  
v>iety ( objects suitable = ,wood ,c>v+4
 ,) descriptive text4 ,second ,edition1 
enl>g$4 #dto1 9 portfolio4 ,price #es4  
net4   ,,anci5t ,,wood ,,& ,,ironwork   
,,9 ,,cambridge4--,by ,w4 ,b4 ,,r$f>n1 !
 ,lett]press by ,,john ,,willis ,,cl>k4 
#bi folio ,li?ograph$ ,plates drawn to a
 good scale4 ,clo? gilt1 a h&some       
volume1 price #ajs4 #f;d41 net #hs4     
#f;d4  ,?is ,"w1 giv+ an int]e/+ &      
useful s]ies ( ,examples1 is b little   
kn[n4 ,v few copies rema94              
,,hepple:ite',s ,,cab9et-,,mak] ,,&     
,,uphol/]]',s ,,guide2 or ,repository ( 
,designs = e article ( ,h\sehold        
,furniture 9 ! newe/ & mo/ approv$ ta/e4
 ,a complete facsimile reproduction (   
?is r>e "w1 conta9+ ne>ly #cjj *>m+     
,designs on #abh ,plates4 ,small folio1 
b\nd 9 speckl$ clo?1 gilt1 old /yle1    
price ,l#b #ajs4 net4 7#agid47 ,orig9al 

copies :5 met ) fet* f ,l#ag to ,l#ah4  
,a beautiful replica1 :i* e admir] ( !  
au?or & p]iod     %\ld possess4--,build+
 ,news4   ,,*ipp5dale',s ,,! ,,g5tleman 
,,& ,,cab9et-,,mak]',s ,,director4--,a  
complete facsimile ( ! #crd & r>e/      
,edition1 conta9+ #bjj ,plates (        
,designs ( ,*airs1 ,s(as1 ,b$s & ,c\*es1
 ,tables1 ,libr>y ,book ,cases1 ,clock  
,cases1 ,/ove ,grates1 c41 c4 ,folio1   
/rongly b\nd 9 half-clo?1 price ,l#c    
#aes4 net4 7#agfb47   ,,%]aton',s       
,,cab9et-,,mak] ,,& ,,uphol/]]',s       
,,draw+-,,book4--,a complete ,facsimile 
,reproduction ( ! sc>ce ,?ird ,edition4 
,) ! r>e ,app5dix & ,accompanim5t       
complete4 ,conta9+ 9 all #dcd pages &   
#abb ,plates4 #dto1 clo?1 price ,l#b    
#ajs4 net4   ,,examples ,,( ,,old       
,,furniture1 ,,engli% ,,& ,,=eign4      
,drawn & describ$ by ,,alfr$ ,,erne/    
,,*ancellor4 ,conta9+ #dj               
,photo-li?ographic ,plates exhibit+ "s  
#ajj examples ( ,elizabe?an1 ,/u>t1     
,que5 ,anne1 ,georgian & ,*ipp5dale     

furniture2 & an int]e/+ v>iety (        
,cont95tal "w4 ,) hi/orical &           
descriptive notes4 ,l>ge #dto1 gilt1    
price ,l#a #es41 net ,l#a #as4      ,9  
publi%+ 8 admirable collection ( draw+s 
( old     furniture1 ,mr4 ,*ancellor    
secures ! gratitude ( all admir]s (     
! consummate craftsman%ip ( ! pa/4 ,8   
examples are select$     f a v>iety (   
s\rces ) f9e discrim9ation1 all hav+ an 
expression & individuality ( _!         
own--qualities t are s     conspicu\sly 
lack+ 9 ! furniture ( our own day4 ,x   
=ms a     v acceptable "w4--,! ,morn+   
,po/4   ,,furniture ,,& ,,decoration ,,9
 ,,engl& ,,dur+ ,,! ,,xviii?            
,,c5tury4--,by ,j4 ,,aldam ,,heaton4    
,two volumes1 ea* ( two p>ts1 b\nd 9    
f\r1 l>ge folio1 clo?1 price ,l#g net4  
,conta9+ upw>ds ( #aej plates (         
photographic reproductions f ! publi%$  
designs ( ,r4  ,j4 ,adam1 ,*ipp5dale1   
,hepple:ite1 ,%]aton1 ,%e>]1 ,p]golesi1 
,cipriani1 ,d>ly1 ,johnson1 ,ri*>dson1 &
 all great ,engli% design]s &           

cab9et-mak]s ( ! p]iod4  ,?is "w =ms an 
encyclopa$ic & almo/ inexhau/ible       
treasury ( ref]5ce = all ,furniture     
,design]s1 ,pa9t]s1 ,int]ior            
,decorators1 ,cab9et-mak]s1 c41 s9ce no 
arti/ ( importance is unrepres5t$1 & a  
fair selection is 9 e case giv5 ( 8 "w4 
,,rema9s ,,( ,,ecclesia/ical            
,,wood-,,"w4--,a ,s]ies ( ,examples (   
,/alls1 ,scre5s1 ,book-,bo>ds1 ,ro(s1   
,pulpits1 c41 conta9+ #ba ,plates       
beautifully engrav$ on ,copp]1 f draw+s 
by ,t4 ,,talbot ,,bury1 ,ar*t4 #dto1    
half-b\nd1 price #ajs4 #f;d41 net #hs4  
#f;d4   ,,flat ,,ornam5t3 ,a ,,patt]n   
,,book ,,= ,,design]s ,,( ,,textiles1   
,,embroid]ies1 ,,wall ,,pap]s1 ,,inlays1
 ,c41 ,c4--#aej ,plates1 "s pr9t$ 9     
,col\rs1 exhibit+ upw>ds ( #ejj         
,hi/orical ,examples ( ,textiles1       
,embroid]ies1 ,pap] ,hang+s1 ,tile      
,pavem5ts1 ,int>sia ,"w1 c4 ,) "s       
,designs by ,dr4 ,,fis*ba*4 ,imp]ial    
#dto bo>ds1 clo? back1 price ,l#a #es41 
net #bjs4   ,,examples ,,( ,,engli%     

,,m$iaeval ,,foliage ,,& ,,col\r$       
,,decoration4--,by ,,jas4 ,k4 ,,coll+1  
,ar*itect1 ,f4,r4,i4,b4,a4 ,tak5 f      
,build+s ( ! ,x,i,ith to ! ,x,vth       
,c5tury4 ,conta9+ #gf ,li?ographic      
,plates1 & #gi ,woodcut ,illu/rations1 )
 ,text4 ,royal #dto1 clo?1 gilt top1    
price #ahs41 net #aes4 7publi%$ at ,l#b 
#bs47   ,,pla/]+--,,pla9 ,,&            
,,decorative4 ,a ,practical ,treatise on
 ! ,art & ,craft ( ,pla/]+ & ,modell+4  
,includ+ full descriptions ( ! v>i\s    
,tools1 ,mat]ials1 ,processes &         
,appliances employ$4 ,) ov] #ej         
full-page ,plates1 & ab\t #ejj small]   
,illu/rations 9 ! ,text4 ,by ,,william  
,,mill>4 ,) an ,introduction1 treat+ ( !
 ,hi/ory ( ! ,art1 by ,g4 ,t4 ,,rob9son1
 ,f4,s4,a4 ,?ick #dto1 clo?1 conta9+    
#fjj pages ( text1 price #ahs4 net4     
,?is new & 9 _m s5ses rem>kable treatise
 444 unque/ionably     conta9s an imm5se
 am\nt ( valuable fir/-h& in=mation4444 
',mill> on ,pla/]+' may be expect$ to be
 ! /&>d au?ority     on ! subject = _m  

ye>s to come4444 ,a truly monum5tal     
"w4--,! ,build]4   ,a ,,gramm> ,,(      
,,japanese ,,ornam5t ,,&                
,,design4--,illu/rat$ by #fe ,plates1 _m
 9 ,gold & ,col\rs1 repres5t+ all       
,classes ( ,natural & ,conv5tional ,=ms1
 drawn f ! ,orig9als1 ) introductory1   
descriptive1 & analytical text4 ,by ,t4 
,w4 ,,cutl]1 ,f4,r4,i4,b4,a4 ,imp]ial   
#dto1 9 elegant clo? b9d+1 price ,l#b   
#fs41 ,l#a #ahs4 net4   ,,decorative    
,,wr\ght ,,ironwork ,,( ,,! #ag,,? ,,&  
#ah,,? ,,c5turies4--,by ,d4 ,j4         
,,ebbetts4 ,conta9+ #af l>ge            
,li?ographic ,plates1 illu/rat+ #gj     
,engli% examples ( ,scre5s1 ,grilles1   
,panels1 ,balu/rades1 c4 ,folio1 bo>ds1 
clo? back1 price #abs4 #f;d41 net #ajs4 
,a ,facsimile reproduction ( "o ( ! r>e/
 & mo/ rem>kable ,books ( ,designs ev]  
publi%$ 9 ,engl&4   ,a ,,new ,,booke ,,(
 ,,draw+s ,,( ,,ironworke4--,inv5t$ &   
,des9$ by ,,john ,,tij\4 ,conta9+       
sev]all sortes ( ,iron ,worke1 z ,gates1
 ,frontispieces1 ,balconies1 ,/aircases1

 ,pannells1 c41 ( :i* ! mo/ "p ha? be5  
wr\ght at ! ,royall ,build+ ( ,hampton  
,c\rt1 c4 ,,all ,,= ,,! ,,use ,,( ,,!m  
,,t ,,worke ,,iron ,,9 ,,p]fection ,,&  
,,) ,,art4 7,sold by ! au?or 9 ,london1 
#afic47 ,conta9+ #bj folio ,plates4 ,)  
,introductory ,note & ,descriptions ( ! 
,plates by ,j4 ,,/>kie ,,g>dn]4 ,folio1 
b\nd 9 bo>ds1 old /yle1 price #bes4 net4
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booksell]4   ,,japanese ,,encyclopa$ia  
,,( ,,design4  ,,book ,i4--,conta9+ ov] 
#a1ejj engrav$ curios1 & mo/ +5i\s      
,geometric ,patt]ns ( ,circles1         
,m$allions1 c41 compris+ ,conv5tional   
,details ( ,plants1 ,fl[]s1 ,leaves1    
,petals1 also ,birds1 ,fans1 ,animals1  
,key ,patt]ns1 c41 c4 ,oblong #abmo1    
fancy cov]s1 price #bs4 net4  ,,book    
,,ii4--,conta9+ ov] #fjj mo/ orig9al &  
effective ,designs = ,diap] ,ornam5t1   
giv+ ! base l9es to ! design1 also      
arti/ic ,m9iature ,picturesque ,sket*es4

 ,oblong #abmo1 price #bs4 net4  ,^!    
books exhibit ! v>i$ *>m & orig9ality ( 
conception ( ,japanese ,ornam5t1 & =m an
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,,delightful ,,s]ies ,,( ,,/udies ,,(   
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pr9t$ 9 t9ts4 ,b\nd 9 fancy pap] cov]s1 
price #ajs4 net4      ,9 attitude &     
ge/ure & expression1 ^! ,birds1 :e!r    
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,japanese ,life1 c4 #hvo1 fancy cov]s4  
#gs4 #f;d4 net4   ,,! ,,ar*itecture ,,( 
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mo/ly reproduc$ f ,photographs1 & #ajj  
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to h s good a record ( su*     admirable
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99       99  ,transcrib]'s ,note3  ,!   
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