,,the ,,art ,,of ,,promoting ,,the      
,,growth ,,of ,,the  ,cucumber and      
,melon2  ,,in ,a ,,series ,,of          
,,directions  ,,for ,,the ,,best ,,means
 ,,to ,,be ,,adopted ,,in ,,bringing    
,,them ,,to  ,a ,,complete ,,state ,,of 
,,perfection4         99       99       
99       99       99  ,,by  ,,thomas    
,,watkins1  ,many ,years ,foreman with  
,mr4 ,grange1 of ,hackney1 and now with 
,w4 ,knight1 ,esq4 ,highbury ,park4     
99       99       99       99       99  
,,london3  ,,published ,,by ,,harding1  
,,st4 ,,james',s ,,street2  ,,and ,,sold
 ,,by ,,grange ,,and ,,dully1           
,,fruiterers1 ,,covent ,,garden2 ,,mason
 ,,and ,,son1 ,,seedsmen1 ,,fleet       
,,street2 ,,warner ,,and ,,co4          
,,seedsmen1 ,,cornhill2 ,,garraway1     
,,nursery ,,and ,,seedsman1 ,,near      
,,maryland ,,point1 ,,stratford1        
,,essex2 ,,and ,,by ,,the ,,author1 ,,at
 ,,highbury4  #ahbd4         99       99
       99       99       99  ,,printed  
,,by ,s4 ,,cave1 ,,islington ,,green4   

99       99       99       99       99  
,,the ,,art ,,of ,,promoting ,,the      
,,growth ,,of ,,the  ,cucumber and      
,melon4     ,,advertisement4   ,the     
author begs to inform the purchasers of 
this work1 that it was originally his   
intention to have given an engraving of 
the particular description of cucumber  
and melon1 which he has been so         
successful in bringing to a state of    
perfection2 and1 in fact1 a plate was   
executed1 at a considerable expense1 for
 that purpose4 ,finding1 however1 that  
although accurate in its representation 
of fine fruit1 it did not pourtray the  
difference1 nor convey the precise idea 
of those qualities which constitute the 
superiority of the author's2 and aware  
that such would have been obvious to    
every experienced gardener1 the design  
was necessarily abandoned1 trusting1    
that as it was merely intended for an   
embellishment1 its deficiency will not  
render the work less valuable to the    
profession4     ,,contents4   ,the      

,cucumber ,seed-bed for ,october        
,page #a  ,the ,fruiting ,frame for     
early ,plants                           
#ad  ,the ,seed-bed for ,january        
#dc  ,on the ,culture of the late       
,cucumber                               
#df  ,on the ,hand-glass ,cucumber      
#ea  ,dimensions of the ,boxes and      
,lights for early and late ,cucumbers   
#ei  ,on the ,culture of early and late 
,melons                            #fe  
,dimensions of the ,boxes and ,lights   
for ditto                       #hc     
,preface4   ,having1 when young1 imbibed
 a particular inclination to study the  
culture of the cucumber and melon1 under
 the direction of my father1 whose      
character as an early framer was in high
 repute1 ,i assiduously tried every     
experiment which was calculated to      
improve upon his system1 by bringing    
them to a more complete state of        
perfection4  ,in marking the progress of
 their growth1 ,i usually committed to  
writing those plans which ,i had found  

to have been productive of beneficial   
effects4 ,the result of these remarks   
has proved the compilation of the       
following treatise1 undertaken at the   
request of several horticulturists1 who 
have expressed their desire to become   
acquainted with the process of my mode  
of cultivation4  ,considering it        
superfluous to enlarge this work by     
unnecessary or controversial            
observations1 ,i have confined myself   
entirely to those directions1 upon which
 ,i have uniformly acted2 and have      
endeavoured to reduce them into as plain
 and simple a form as possible2 at the  
same time observing to omit nothing     
which can be of utility in this         
difficult and hitherto imperfectly      
understood branch of horticulture4      
,several gardeners1 who are now very    
eminent in their profession1 have placed
 themselves under my tuition1 and ,i    
flatter myself are perfectly satisfied  
that the instruction they received1 was 
fully adequate to the compensation      

required2 and perfectly convinced them  
of the superiority of my mode of        
culture4 ,i here pledge myself1 that the
 advice given to such practitioners is  
contained in the following directions4  
,my principal object in the different   
experiments ,i have tried1 has always   
been to discover an easy1 as well as a  
certain method of maturing these        
delicate plants1 and1 in consequence1   
have avoided1 as much as possible1 any  
artificial means that might be attended 
with difficulty or expense4  ,the only  
writer ,i know upon this subject1 with  
the exception of ,abercrombie1 whose    
system is now totally exploded1 is ,mr4 
,m',phail1 gardener to ,lord            
,hawkesbury4 ,this gentleman published a
 treatise in the year #agie1 in which he
 strenuously recommends brick pits for  
cucumbers and melons1 as far superior to
 the dung bed4 ,it will be obvious1     
however1 to every person who has perused
 that work1 that the plan was adopted   
merely through deficiency of knowledge  

in the proper management of the dung    
bed2 for ,mr4 ,m',phail asserts1 that   
upon first attempting to produce early  
cucumbers in ,lord ,hawkesbury's garden1
 he completely failed1 and was1 in      
consequence1 induced to apply to some   
horticulturist in the neighbourhood1 to 
whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas 
for his instruction4 ,the principal     
thing he appears to have been taught1   
was to keep the burning heat of the dung
 about the roots of the plants down by  
the continual application of water into 
the bed2 which1 however1 he found       
insufficient to preserve them in a      
thriving state1 throughout the winter   
months4 ,this caused him to assert that 
it was out of the power of any person to
 keep a dung bed sweet1 and consequently
 impracticable to rear them at that time
 of the year4 ,to this ,i have only to  
observe1 that the following directions  
will prove a contradiction2 for if they 
are strictly attended to1 no fear need  
be entertained of their vigorous growth1

 either from the premature season1 or   
the inclemency of the weather4  ,in     
,december and ,january1 although their  
health is certain1 ,i must allow that   
they do not grow so fast as in other    
months2 and this is the particular time 
when difficulty is experienced by those 
who are unacquainted with the proper    
means to be adopted1 although1 perhaps1 
their efforts may have been attended    
with far more trouble than the rules    
here prescribed4  ,the dung bed is      
certainly of the greatest importance    
both in the culture of the cucumber and 
melon2 and want of knowledge in the     
management is generally the cause of the
 loss of the plants in the winter       
season1 by the settlement of a cold     
moisture upon them1 which cannot be     
removed without assistance from the sun3
 particular attention1 therefore1 to the
 directions given upon that point is    
highly necessary2 indeed1 it cannot be  
too strongly impressed on the mind of   
the horticulturist that upon this       

greatly depends the success of his      
endeavours to mature them to any degree 
of perfection4  ,in the remarks upon    
preserving the plants from a cold       
moisture1 in the most inclement weather1
 ,i have called to assistance what may  
be technically termed an artificial sun2
 and as this most material point may be 
perfectly understood ,i shall here      
describe it more particularly4  ,keep   
the bed always wrapped up to nearly the 
top of the box with hay1 straw1 or any  
kind of sweet litter2 observing that    
hay1 however damaged1 is certainly      
preferable2 this will have the desired  
effect in promoting a top heat1 and     
obviating the difficulty                
above-mentioned1 in keeping the plants  
perfectly dry4  ,to those who are       
unacquainted with the management of a   
dung bed1 a brick one certainly appears 
more advantageous1 in being attended    
with less trouble to the horticulturist1
 though infinitely with more expense1   
both in the building and consumption of 

dung3 this1 however1 is a mistaken idea1
 for nothing certainly can be more      
congenial to the growth of either the   
cucumber or melon than a sweet steam    
heat3 this essential requisite1 which   
may always be obtained by the process   
hereafter described1 can be but         
partially promoted in brick pits2 for   
although water1 in its necessary        
application1 may create a steam heat1 it
 soon evaporates2 and the heat of the   
linings having to pass through the      
bricks and tiles1 it becomes dry1 and   
quite incapable of affording any        
nourishment to the plants4  ,the limited
 space in which the plants are confined 
in their growth by brick pits1 is also a
 very great objection to this mode of   
culture4 ,that they derive their chief  
support from the extremity of the roots 
must be obvious to every one1 and if    
these are concentred in the middle of   
the bed1 and thereby rendered incapable 
of expanding over the flues as in the   
dung bed1 they must be certainly        

deprived of that vigour which is natural
 to them from a free and uninterrupted  
growth1 and where they experience the   
whole of the benefit that can arise from
 the bed in which they are placed4 ,in  
short1 the dung bed in so many instances
 is superior to brick pits1 that        
competition in the culture of either the
 cucumber or melon by the latter plan   
would be entirely useless2 for whether  
in the vigour of the plants1 quickness  
of growth1 or production of fine fruit1 
the dung bed1 systematically attended   
to1 as described in this treatise1 will 
prove beyond doubt1 that the most       
expensive means are not always attended 
with the most beneficial results4  ,in  
the following directions1 the first     
thing ,i have taken notice of1 is the   
early cucumber1 as being the most       
difficult1 and consequently the most    
particular in its process of culture4   
,strict attention and perseverance in   
the method prescribed1 cannot fail to   
bring them to a complete state of       

perfection within the time limited4     
,secondly--,the necessary directions    
will be found for promoting the growth  
of such cucumbers as are sown in        
,january4 ,it is here necessary to      
observe1 that this is the most          
preferable season for those which are   
not required so very early2 as the      
increasing temperature of the weather in
 the course of their growth1 affords    
facility for their being matured with a 
greater degree of strength4             
,thirdly--,the method of bringing to    
perfection the late frame1 or spring    
sown cucumber4 ,the directions upon this
 head will be found extremely useful1   
both to young practitioners1 and those  
who are not professed horticulturists4  
,many gentlemen who cultivate their own 
gardens1 and are desirous of possessing 
a cucumber bed1 will find the           
information here given of great utility4
  ,fourthly--,in treating upon the      
process necessary for the management of 
the hand-glass cucumber in the summer   

months1 ,i have offered an improved     
system1 which will be found of          
considerable importance to gardeners in 
general in enhancing the value of their 
fruit1 by rendering it much superior to 
that produced by the common method4     
,the directions ,i have given with      
regard to the melon1 will be found to   
explode all that difficulty which       
gardeners have usually imagined exists  
in the production of this choice fruit4 
,the description given of my method of  
culture1 will at once evince the        
simplicity of its process1 and show the 
certainty of its result4  ,having       
explained the motives which induced me  
to undertake this work1 ,i have only to 
observe1 that the system has been       
productive of great advantage to myself1
 in enabling me to supersede my         
contemporaries in several annual shows1 
by obtaining the prize2 and1 to render  
this effective to every person1 the     
principal thing required1 as before     
mentioned1 is attention and perseverance

 in the rules prescribed2 and those who 
adopt them will1 ,i am confident1       
acknowledge their utility1 and be       
sensible of the benefits that must      
eventually arise from a practical       
improvement in this particular branch of
 horticulture4  ,,thomas ,,watkins4     
,highbury ,park1 ,january #cj1 #ahbd4   
,,the ,,art ,,of ,,promoting ,,the      
,,growth ,,of ,,the  ,cucumber and      
,melon4         99       99       99    
99       99  ,,on ,,the ,,management    
,,required ,,in ,,the ,,culture ,,of    
,,early ,,cucumbers4         99       99
       99       99       99  ,,the      
,,seed-,,bed ,,for ,,october3  ,to be   
sown from the #ajth to the #bjth of the 
,month4   ,one load of horse-dung1 or   
twenty barrows-full1 will be sufficient 
for a one-light box1 and let it be put  
together at least three weeks before    
making the bed1 in a round or square    
heap1 being particular in well treading 
it down4 ,if the dung is dry1 it will be
 necessary to give it some water2 if    

very dry1 a dozen pots will be required4
 ,let it lay in this state a week1 and  
then turn it1 shaking the outsides of   
the heap into the middle1 and give it   
some more water4 ,in doing this1 it is  
requisite that the heap should be well  
shook to pieces1 and trod down4 ,let it 
lay another week1 at the expiration of  
which1 observe the same directions as   
before given1 applying the quantity of  
water in proportion to the dry nature of
 the dung4 ,at the end of the third     
week1 it will be in a proper condition  
to make use of1 as by that time it will 
be sufficiently moist and hot1 the      
necessary state in which it should be1  
before the formation of the bed4  ,as   
much depends upon the nature of the     
dung1 and its proper condition1 great   
attention should be paid1 and some      
judgment exercised in the means best    
calculated to prepare it for a state of 
fermentation4 ,the most certain method  
that can be adopted1 and likely to      
ensure a beneficial result is1 in the   

summer months1 to pack the dung you     
intend to make use of for the ,october  
seed-bed as close together as possible1 
taking care to keep it dry1 that it may 
retain its virtue4 ,this sort of dung is
 far preferable to that newly made1     
being less rank and not so liable to    
burn2 and when under a state of         
preparation1 by turning and moistening1 
as before described1 it will be in a    
much better condition than any that can 
be fresh procured4#a  ,before forming   
the bed1 let the bottom be made in the  
following manner3--,raise the ground    
about six inches above the level with   
road sand or mould1 upon the top of     
which place some fagots1 or other kind  
of wood1 to the height of a foot1 in    
order that the bed may be well drained4 
,if there is an insufficiency of dung1  
you can add a foot of dry rubbish1 such 
as strawberry or asparagus halm1 or any 
other loose stuff4 ,let the bottom be   
extended nine inches wider than the     
frame you intend to make use of1 the    

height of the bed being at the back four
 feet1 and in the front1 three feet nine
 inches4 ,beat it well down with a fork2
 then put the box on1 and fill it three 
parts full with the shovellings of the  
dung that is left2 after which1 place on
 the light1 and let it be close shut    
down4 ,as soon as you discover the heat 
rising1 admit air by opening the frame  
about an inch3 when it increases1 so as 
to become very hot1 admit more air1 by  
extending the aperture to two inches4   
,it must remain in this situation about 
a week2 then fork it up above a foot    
deep1 and if caked together1 or in the  
least dry1 give it more water4 ,from two
 to four pots is generally sufficient2  
but the quantity must be regulated by   
the state of the bed4 ,here it is       
necessary to observe1 that moisture is  
of most important consequence to the    
seed-bed1 and nothing is so well        
calculated to sweeten and cleanse it    
from impurity as water4  ,in two or     
three days after forking up1 it will be 

necessary to take off the box and light1
 for the purpose of making the bed even4
 ,in doing this1 stir it up from about  
the depth of a foot1 and shake it to    
pieces2 then put on the box again1 and  
give the light one or two inches of air1
 according to the temperature of the    
weather4  ,it will now be necessary to  
wrap up the bed with straw1 pea-halm1 or
 hay1 about eighteen inches wide at the 
bottom1 drawing it in gradually to a    
foot wide1 within three inches of the   
top of the box4  ,in three or four days 
stir up the bed in the same manner as   
before1 observing that if it be in the  
least dry1 or inclined to a burning     
heat1 to give it three or more pots of  
water1 as shall seem necessary4 ,it must
 be stirred up again in three or four   
days1 and beat down gently with a fork1 
when it will be in a fit state to       
receive the old tan or mould in which   
the seed is to be deposited4  ,a        
seed-bed should always lay a fortnight  
or three weeks before the seed is       

attempted to be sown2 as many evil      
consequences are to be apprehended from 
sowing it before1 from the firing of the
 bed1 or the impure nature of the dung4 
,if this be not strictly attended to1   
the plants will not be brought to that  
degree of perfection1 as might          
reasonably be expected from a bed in its
 proper heat and condition4#b  ,after   
the bed has been laid and dealt with    
according to the foregoing directions1  
spread two barrows-full of old tan or   
light mould all over the surface1 having
 it a little deeper in the middle than  
at the sides4 ,old tan is certainly more
 preferable than mould1 though either   
will answer the purpose4 ,let it be put 
in the frame the day before the seed is 
sown1 and cover the bed up with a single
 mat at night1 taking care to shut it   
down until the morning1 that the heat   
may be properly drawn up4 ,take some    
forty-eight size pots1 and mix a        
quantity of leaf mould with a sixth     
proportion of road sand1 not sifted     

fine4 ,the sifting mould to a fine      
degree is an error too prevalent in     
horticulture1 and ought particularly to 
be avoided1 from its great tendency to  
bind4  ,it is very requisite that a     
cucumber should have a good digestion1  
and in order to accomplish this1 it will
 be necessary to cover the holes at the 
bottom of the pots with broken pieces2  
then strew a little of the rough        
siftings of the mould over it1 and fill 
them up within half an inch of the brim 
with the prepared mould and sand4 ,shake
 it down a little1 and sow the seed#c   
from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot1  
just covering it with a little mould2   
then give it a small quantity of water1 
which for the first time may be cold1   
but great care must be taken in the     
subsequent waterings1 that it be chilled
 to about the warmth of new milk4  ,the 
seed being sown1 plunge the pots in the 
bed up to the rim1 and give them about  
half an inch of air4 ,at night they must
 be covered with a single mat1 taking   

care to turn it up at at the back1 that 
the steam may pass freely from the bed4 
,let the air be continued both night and
 day4  ,after the seed has been sown    
three days1 it will be up1 when the pots
 must be unplunged1 placed on the       
surface1 and some water given to them4  
,they will now require upwards of an    
inch of air1 both night and day1 which  
will cause the plants to grow stuggy1 or
 dwarfish1 and prevent their drawing4   
,in about three days give them some more
 water in the morning1 and they will be 
ready to pot off in the afternoon4      
,plants should be always potted off when
 young1 as they strike more freely in   
the pots2 and1 in doing this1 the       
following directions should be attended 
to4  ,put the mould in the bed to chill1
 the day before potting off1 and let it 
be of the same description as that in   
which the seed was sown4 ,if the pots   
are old and dirty1 wash them1 and be    
careful in having them properly dried   
before they are made use of4 ,take some 

old rotten turf1 or a little of the     
coarse siftings of the leaf mould1 and  
place a small quantity over the tile at 
the bottom of every pot2 then fill them 
about one-third full1 put three plants  
in each1 and cover the roots about an   
inch4 ,the pots must not be plunged1 but
 placed on the surface1 and some water  
given them with a fine rose4  ,it is    
necessary to have a small pot on purpose
 to water the plants1 which will contain
 about three quarts1 and has a hollow   
fine rose1 which is much better         
calculated to water the plants regularly
 than a spreading one4  ,be particular  
in watering them regular1 which will be 
requisite every two or three days1 for  
the space of three weeks or a month at  
latest1 when they will be in a proper   
condition to ridge out4  ,after the     
plants have been potted three days1 add 
a little mould to them1 and repeat it   
every two or three days1 for about a    
fortnight1 until the pot is quite       
filled4 ,much attention should be paid  

to this method of putting in the mould1 
which experience has convinced the      
author is far superior to the usual     
practice of filling the pots in the     
first instance up to the seed-leaves of 
the plants4 ,by the gradual mode of     
filling1 the plant is prevented from    
shanking1 and is certain in its growth  
of being dwarfish and strong1 which     
cannot be insured by the common method1 
as it tends considerably to weaken the  
plant1 and renders it very liable to fog
 off1 before taking root4 ,by potting   
them low1 and only just covering the    
roots at first1 the stems of the plants 
become hardened1 and strike very freely 
upwards3 as the tap roots of a cucumber 
always decay when forced with a strong  
bottom heat4  ,it will be necessary1    
after the plants have been potted about 
a week1 to examine the bed1 for the     
purpose of ascertaining whether there is
 any fire heat4 ,if such should be found
 to be the case1 and the directions as  
before given with regard to moisture    

have been strictly attended to1 it can  
only exist in the tan1 which must       
immediately be supplied with water1 and1
 the day following1 stirred well up     
together and levelled1 placing the pots 
upon the surface4 ,in another week again
 examine the bed1 and if any fire heat  
still remains1 attend to it as above2 if
 not1 stir up the tan1 and plunge the   
pots about half way down2 being1        
however1 guided in this by the          
temperature of the bed1 as plants sown  
in ,october do not require so much heat 
as those in the three following months4 
,observe1 when the plants have been     
potted two or three days1 to stir the   
mould in the pots1 round the plants1 and
 likewise the tan1 with a sharp-pointed 
stick1 which will contribute to freshen 
the plants1 and prevent any thing of a  
mouldy nature from injuring them4  ,as  
soon as they have made the first rough  
leaf1 top them1 by taking out the break 
that appears next1 which may be easily  
done with the thumb and finger1 or a    

sharp-pointed stick4 ,in little more    
than a fortnight1 they will be in a fit 
state to top down2 and in three weeks   
from the time of sowing1 ready to ridge 
out4  ,at this time of the year1 the bed
 will not require any lining2 but       
observe1 that as the wrapping sinks1 it 
will be necessary to increase it1       
pressing it down close to the box1 and  
keeping it within one-third of the top4 
,if the plants are not ridged out when  
three weeks old1 plunge them up to the  
rim1 until the fruiting frame is ready  
for their reception1 which ought to be  
at the latest when they are a month or  
five weeks old4 ,if it should happen1   
however1 that the frame is not perfectly
 sweet1 by no means ridge them out until
 it is in a proper condition4 ,after    
they are a month old1 increase the      
lining at the back and front1 about four
 or five barrows-full each1 applying it 
in the following manner3--,remove the   
wrapping down to the bottom1 and extend 
the dung to the width of two feet1 and  

three parts as high as the bed2 drawing 
it in to about eighteen inches at the   
top4 ,cover the lining with the litter  
four inches wide from the bottom1 and   
three parts as high as the box1 being   
particularly careful in stopping up the 
inside1 by pressing the tan close to the
 box1 about three inches above the      
bottom4 ,as the lining sinks1 add a     
little wrapping to the top1 formed of   
hay1 or old litter that is quite sweet4 
,,footnotes3  #a ,dung put together in  
the above manner1 will retain its virtue
 from six to nine months4  #b ,the heat 
required in ,october sown plants1 while 
growing in the seed-bed1 is from        
sixty-five to seventy degrees of        
,fahrenheit's thermometer4 ,should that 
temperature be exceeded in this season1 
they will draw up very long3 but after  
being ridged out1 more heat will become 
necessary2 that is to say1 from seventy 
to eighty degrees3 and the same is to be
 observed with young plants raised in   
the three following months4  #c ,some   

gardeners are very particular in having 
seed that is three or four years old1   
imagining that new will grow too        
vigorous1 and not show fruit or set so  
well2 but in this they are much         
mistaken1 the ,author knowing1 from     
experience1 that new seed1 or at least  
not more than two years old1 is the best
 calculated for bringing to perfection  
both the cucumber and melon2 possessing 
the advantage of a greater freedom in   
growth1 and much finer fruit than can be
 derived from old seed4     ,,the       
,,fruiting ,,frame1  ,for ,plants sown  
in ,october1 ,november1 ,december1 and  
,january4   ,four loads of dung will be 
sufficient for a three-light box1 and   
the same in proportion to the number you
 intend to make use of4 ,let it be put  
together a fortnight before the seed is 
sown2 be very particular in giving it   
plenty of water1 and pack it close      
together4 ,after it has laid a week turn
 it1 and if dry1 moisten it with water4 
,let it continue in this state another  

week1 when the same directions as before
 given must be observed2 and1 in a week 
more1 the bed will be in a fit condition
 to make up4  ,the bottom must be       
prepared in the same manner as directed 
for the seed-bed2 then form the bed of  
dung four feet three inches at the back1
 by four feet in the front1 allowing for
 a cavity of about ten inches between   
each box2 then place the boxes on1 and  
put the shovellings inside1 in the      
proportion of two or three barrows-full 
to a light4 ,in forming the bed1 it is  
the best plan to make it in layers of   
about a foot each1 which will cause the 
dung to be much better mixed1 than if   
all finished at first1 of an equal      
height4 ,be very particular in          
separating the dung1 and breaking it to 
pieces1 afterwards beating it well down 
with a fork4  ,after the bed has been   
thus prepared1 put the lights on1 and   
shut them down close until the heat     
begins to rise4 ,when such is the case1 
give them about an inch of air2 and in  

three or four days wrap the bed all     
round with dry litter or useless hay1   
eighteen inches wide from the bottom1   
sloping it in to about a foot as high as
 the bed1 which will greatly tend to    
promote a regular heat4 ,as the careful 
wrapping up of the bed is an essential  
requisite1 means must be taken to keep  
it close1 and protect it from any injury
 that may arise in consequence of       
tempestuous weather1 this may be        
accomplished by means of sharp-pointed  
sticks1 with hooks in the form of a peg1
 and about the size and length of a     
broom-stick4 ,thrust these through the  
litter into the bed1 about half way up1 
one to each light1 at the back and      
front1 and two at each end4  ,after the 
bed has been made about a week or ten   
days1 take off the boxes and lights1 in 
order to level it1 and let it have from 
four to six inches fall from the back to
 the front2 in this1 however1 you must  
be in some degree guided by the form of 
the boxes1 which it is necessary should 

have a good fall1 that the plants may   
derive benefit from the sun2 then fork  
up the bed about a foot deep1 and again 
place on the boxes and lights1 giving   
nearly two inches of air1 both night and
 day4 ,in about four or five days it    
will be necessary to again fork it up1  
and give it some water1 in the          
proportion of two pots to a light4 ,this
 must be repeated every two or three    
days1 until the bed is perfectly sweet1 
which is usually the case in three or   
four weeks1 applying water during that  
time1 according to the state of the bed4
  ,when you find that the bed is        
properly purified1 put in the sifted    
leaf mould4 ,a three-light box will     
require a large barrow-full2 the        
quantity for a one-light being about    
four shovels4 ,after this1 add to the   
wrapping some sweet litter or hay1      
increasing it to nearly the top of the  
boxes1 and apply about two pots of water
 to each of the cavities1 taking care to
 fill them up to nearly the tops of the 

boxes1 with short sweet mulshy litter4  
,this is a point but very little known1 
yet of the greatest importance in the   
culture of cucumbers2 for when the      
weather begins to grow severe1 if there 
is no cavity1 and the boxes are placed  
close together1 in the usual manner1 the
 outsides are very liable to become     
damp1 and the cold1 penetrating through1
 is certain of doing the plants material
 injury4  ,put a pot of plants in the   
middle of a three-light box1 and at     
night admit nearly two inches of air1   
covering them with a single mat2 and if 
on the following day the plants look    
well1 they may be safely ridged out4    
,it is requisite that both the boxes and
 lights should be painted every year1 at
 least a month before they are wanted   
for use2 but if this cannot be          
conveniently done1 be particular in     
washing them with boiling water1 in     
which some unslacked lime must be mixed4
 ,this will in some measure answer the  
purpose of paint in effectually         

destroying the vermin1 or the eggs which
 may have been deposited in the crevices
 of the wood4  ,after the plants are    
ridged out1 wash them every morning1 on 
the outside1 and about once a week in   
the inside1 which will tend to reflect  
the light1 and cause them to thrive much
 better4 ,when you wash the outside1    
push them down about two or three       
inches1 which will prevent the water    
from perishing the lining at the side of
 the boxes4 ,if the plants have received
 no injury1 and are able to bear the    
heat of the bed1 ridge them out1 letting
 the hills be about nine inches high1   
covering the roots about an inch round1 
and being an inch higher than they were 
when in the pots4 ,if there is any      
surplus mould1 rake it with the hand all
 over the bed2 then water the plants1   
taking care1 at the same time to        
sprinkle the bed regularly upon the     
surface4 ,close them down for the space 
of ten minutes1 and then admit an inch  
of air4 ,if the weather is mild1 in an  

hour it may be increased to two inches1 
and a single mat only will be requisite 
at night4 ,if1 however1 the weather is  
windy1 cover them at night with a double
 mat1 or a single one and a little hay4 
,be very particular in allowing them    
plenty of air1 especially of a night1   
taking care1 however1 to regulate this  
by the temperature of the weather4 ,if  
there is much wind1 they will of course 
require less air2 but1 at all events1 it
 is better to give too much than        
otherwise1 more particularly at the     
first ridging out1 as the weather at    
this season being frequently subject to 
sudden changes1 which1 should it occur  
in the night1 and the plants are too    
confined1 or the least rankness existing
 in the bed1 they are sure to experience
 material injury1 which1 at this time of
 year1 it is very improbable they will  
ever recover2 or1 if with extreme       
difficulty1 they should be brought      
round1 they can never be expected to    
grow to any degree of perfection4  ,stir

 up the bed every day for a fortnight to
 the depth of about nine inches1 with a 
hand-fork1 and if you discover any      
fire-heat1 immediately give water to the
 part affected1 that being the only     
effectual remedy that can be applied4   
,be careful in forking close to the     
bottom of the hills1 and if you         
ascertain that it fires much in this    
place1 bore several holes at the bottom 
of the hills1 and apply plenty of water4
  ,have a sharp-pointed stick1 about six
 or eight inches long1 for the purpose  
of stirring the mould round the plants1 
in a similar manner to hoeing a crop in 
a garden4 ,this will very much refresh  
the plants1 and should be attended to   
while they are young1 for at least two  
months the day after they have been     
watered4  ,as soon as the roots begin to
 be visible through the hills1 add three
 shovels-full of unsifted mould at a    
time to each hill1 being very careful   
not to mould too freely1 until the      
beginning of ,february1 as the plants   

from the middle of ,december to the     
middle of ,january1 lie in a dormant    
state2 consequently1 too large a        
quantity of mould at this season1 will  
be attended with ill effects1 in        
stagnating the roots1 and preventing the
 heat of the bed rising in a free and   
proper manner4  ,this being the season  
when plants are most exposed to injury1 
and are frequently lost1 great care and 
attention is necessary for their        
preservation from the effects of the    
cold1 in wrapping the linings well up1  
and giving a good top covering4 ,if the 
weather is intense1 they will require   
eight or nine inches covering of hay1   
and water only once a week4  ,as soon as
 the plants are first ridged out1 have  
dung in for a lining1 which should      
always be put in the front and sides    
first4 ,when the dung has been put      
together a week1 turn it1 and at the end
 of another it will be fit for use2 one 
load being sufficient for a three-light 
box4 ,after the plants have been ridged 

out a fortnight1 or three weeks at the  
farthest1 it will be necessary to line  
the bed to the width of about two feet1 
and three parts as high as the bed1     
inclining with a slope of about six     
inches towards the top4 ,when the dung  
has been put about half way up1 tread   
it1 and then add the remainder1 beating 
it well down with a fork4 ,cover the    
lining with litter about three or four  
inches thick at the outside1 and within 
one or two inches of the top of the box2
 then place a board at the top about    
nine inches wide1 which will keep it    
close1 and assist in drawing up the     
heat4 ,be particularly careful in       
stopping the inside next to the box1    
when you make a fresh lining1 and beat  
it close down with the hand about two or
 three inches above the bottom4  ,when a
 fresh lining has been added1 have the  
dung in readiness for the back1 which   
will be required about a fortnight      
afterwards4 ,it should be formed about  
two feet six inches wide1 well trod     

down1 and wrapped up in the same manner 
as the front1 within three inches of the
 top of the box4 ,be careful that the   
litter is not rank2 old useless hay1 or 
litter that has been some time laying   
by1 will be preferable4 ,the same       
directions must be attended to in       
stopping up the inside of the box1 as   
with the front4  ,as soon as the heat of
 the lining in any degree affects the   
bed1 and you discover that the inside1  
where it has been stopped1 begins to get
 dry1 give it some water in the evening1
 just before covering up1 for about a   
week or ten days1 which will be the     
means of keeping the rankness down1 and 
causing a sweet steam heat to rise4  ,as
 the lining settles1 press it down with 
a spade next the box1 and add more      
litter upon the top1 which should be    
done every other day1 observing that    
when you increase one lining to have the
 dung in readiness for the next2 each   
lining not being calculated to last more
 than a month or five weeks2 though the 

back one will not want renewing quite so
 often as the front4 ,when you apply the
 second front lining1 it will be        
necessary to bore the bed with a        
hedge-stake or mop-stick1 making five   
holes to a three-light box2 that is1 one
 under each hill1 and two under the     
bars3 bore them straight rather better  
than half way up the bed1 so that when  
the second back lining is applied1 holes
 may be bored exactly opposite to the   
others4 ,this will cause a free         
circulation of the heat from one lining 
to the other1 and prove not only of     
great service in regulating the         
temperature of the bed1 but of equal    
advantage in draining off the surplus   
water4 ,take care when you add a fresh  
lining1 to keep the holes open4  ,as the
 linings draw the boxes down1 they will 
require rising with boards and bricks4  
,in order to accomplish this1 it will be
 necessary to provide some small pieces 
of board1 rather larger than a brick1   
placing one of each1 with a brick1 under

 the corners of the boxes2 and1 as the  
bed settles1 increase the number of     
bricks4 ,when you raise the boxes1 stop 
up the bed with rotten moist dung1 and  
close up the inside about two or three  
inches above the bottom of the box4     
,the plants should be always topped when
 young1 at the first joint1 as before   
directed2 then let them run two joints  
twice following2#d afterwards keep them 
topped at the first joint1 except it be 
blind1 which may be easily ascertained  
by close examination2 if you find such  
to be the case1 let it run another joint
 before it is topped4  ,it is necessary 
that the plants should be continued in  
leaf mould until the middle of ,january1
 as there is no other in which they will
 thrive so well at that season of the   
year4 ,their peculiar and tender nature 
bears a strong resemblance to young     
children1 in the care requisite for     
their nurture and growth4 ,they require 
light nourishment1 that will easily     
digest2 and no soil is so well          

calculated for this purpose as          
leaf-mould1 mixed with a little grit2   
from its excellent properties in        
absorbing the water4  ,in ridging out   
the plants1 one thing must be attended  
to in the preparation of the bed1 which 
has not been before mentioned4 ,hollow  
the bed out to the depth of about four  
inches in the middle1 so that if the    
weather is cold or windy1 the dung may  
be pulled down half way up the hills1   
when it will be nearly level about the  
bed2 but as soon as the weather becomes 
mild1 it must be drawn away again1 or   
otherwise the heat will be too violent  
for the roots4 ,as mould is added to the
 roots1 draw the dung away level with   
the bottom of the hill2 then put it half
 way up again1 being1 however1 regulated
 in this by the heat of the bed1 and the
 temperature of the weather4 ,after the 
hills cover nearly three parts of the   
bed1 take the dung out which has been   
placed round them1 and level it with    
nearly the bottom of the box1 leaving   

three or four inches round the sides to 
keep out the rankness from the linings1 
as before directed4  ,in covering up the
 plants1 a single mat will be           
sufficient1 until they have been ridged 
out a fortnight1 unless the weather is  
windy or very cold2 in such case1 make  
use of a double mat or a little hay2 be 
careful1 at the same time1 not to give  
them too much covering at first1 as it  
will draw the plants1 and cause them to 
grow very weak2 in this1 however1 you   
must be in some degree guided by the    
heat of the bed1 and the temperature of 
the weather4 ,when there is a good heat1
 and the weather is still1 they will    
require less2 but if there is much wind1
 or the air is very cold1 it must of    
course be increased4 ,it seldom occurs  
that plants require much covering until 
a fortnight before ,christmas1 when it  
will be found necessary1 if the weather 
is moderate1 to cover them from four to 
six inches4 ,instances have occurred1   
when the author has been obliged to     

increase the covering to a foot in      
thickness1 from the intense cold2 but   
this1 however1 is seldom the case2 and  
from four to six inches may generally be
 considered sufficient from ,december to
 ,april4 ,as the sun increases1 and the 
nights become milder1 reduce the        
covering to three or four inches1 until 
,may2 from whence to ,june a single mat1
 or a little hay or litter will be      
sufficient4 ,if the weather is now      
seasonable1 and the nights warm1 they   
will not require any covering1 but      
should this not be the case1 it is      
better to continue it even until        
,midsummer4  ,take particular care when 
covering up1 after a fresh lining has   
been put to the bed1 that the mats or   
hay does not hang over the lights for at
 least a fortnight1 as such will draw   
the rank steam into the bed1 and kill   
the plants4  ,the linings should be     
continued until the weather is fine and 
settled1 which may be expected in the   
middle of ,may2 but should the weather  

be cold and unfavourable1 it may be     
necessary to retain them until the      
middle of ,june4  ,in about the third   
week of the month of ,january1 the      
plants will require stronger food2 and  
half bog and half leaf mould may be     
applied4 ,should there be a difficulty  
in obtaining bog earth1 procure the top 
spit of light meadow earth1 and lay it  
up for twelve1 or1 at the least1 six    
months before it is wanted for use4     
,when you mould towards the outside1 it 
may be still stronger1 mixing rotten    
dung or leaf mould1 in the proportion of
 one-fourth1 with bog or light meadow   
earth2 observing1 however1 not to mould 
up the plants level until some time     
after fruit has been cut4 ,the beginning
 of ,march is the proper time to mould  
up full4  ,let a cavity be left at the  
back and front of the box of about two  
inches1 to prevent the roots from being 
injured on the outside of the box by the
 linings2 and to cause the heat to rise 
freely from the bed4  ,it is very       

necessary that the plants should be kept
 thin of vine1 as being material in the 
growth of fine fruit2 and as they extend
 towards the outside of the bed1 do not 
suffer them to run more than one joint  
at a time4  ,keep the leaves thinned1 by
 taking out the oldest first1 in order  
that they may stand single1 and not one 
over the other2 to accomplish which it  
will be necessary to peg them out4 ,when
 taking off the leaves1 cut them close  
to the vine1 not leaving a long stalk1  
as that will rot and injure the plants4 
,when they are laid1 be particular in   
having the plants down close to the     
mould1 as early as possible1 in order   
that they may strike root2 at the same  
time being careful not to bury the vine4
 ,in doing this1 place a little mould   
round the side of the vine first1       
leaving the top uncovered until it is a 
little hardened1 and the roots begin to 
strike4 ,when such is the case1 cover   
the vine all over1 and then you may     
continue laying within one joint of the 

extremity4  ,it is here necessary to    
observe1 that very few are acquainted   
with the advantages that may be derived 
from laying the plants in a proper      
manner4 ,many even1 who are in the habit
 of observing this method1 practice it  
so slightly1 that little if any benefit 
results from it2 and by far the greatest
 number of horticulturists take no      
notice of it whatever4 ,laying is       
certainly a most material point in the  
culture of the early cucumber2 and it is
 impossible to ensure a good crop       
without a strict attention to it3 in    
fact1 the ,author principally attributes
 his success in the production of fine  
fruit1 to his extreme care in this      
particular4 ,it should be done every    
fortnight or three weeks after the      
plants have come into bearing2 and1 if  
continued in a regular manner1 good     
fruit may be obtained until ,october4   
,some imagine that ,october sown plants 
will soon be worn out1 after producing a
 few cucumbers early2 but this is a     

mistaken idea1 for1 if the laying is    
continued regularly1 they will bear good
 fruit equally as long as any young     
plants sown in the spring4 ,leaf-mould1 
mixed with a little road sand1 is the   
best thing to lay them in until the     
latter end of ,march1 when you may add a
 stronger soil1 composed of one-fourth  
of leaf-mould or rotten dung1 mixed with
 bog or light meadow earth4  ,soft water
 is essentially necessary for the       
plants1 as hard is almost certain of    
producing the canker1 unless particular 
means are adopted to prevent it4 ,in    
some situations it may be impossible to 
obtain soft water2 in such a case1 let  
the water stand in a tub for at least   
twenty-four hours2 if two or three days 
even it will be the better1 as in that  
time it will be in some degree softened 
by the sun1 and the raw coldness        
expelled from it4  ,after the plants    
have come into bearing1 sheeps dung is  
an excellent thing to mix with the      
water1 if used in a moderate manner4    

,the following proportion will be       
necessary3--,to six pots of water put in
 the tub one shovel-full of dung2 let   
this be stirred up continually for the  
space of two or three days1 and when    
wanted for use1 it must be again well   
stirred up4 ,in watering with this      
mixture1 be particular in having a small
 thin spouted pot1 without a rose1 so   
that it may be easily poured under the  
leaves4 ,a gallon or six quarts will be 
a sufficient quantity for one light1 and
 in watering be careful that it is not  
sprinkled over the leaves4 ,sheeps dung1
 mixed with the water1 will be found    
very beneficial to the plants1 if used  
moderately1 as too great a freedom will 
tend to injure them4  ,when the plants  
are first ridged out1 they will require 
water every third day1 until about the  
middle of ,december2 and when applied1  
it must be sprinkled all over the plants
 and bed1 observing to give a larger    
quantity where the heat seems most to   
prevail4 ,in general more water is      

requisite at the back than the front3   
unless there is much heat in the front  
from the middle of ,december until the  
middle of ,january1 once in five or six 
days will be sufficient to water the    
plants4 ,round the side of the box1 and 
at the back1 however1 should be watered 
every night1 while there is much heat4  
,about two or three quarts of water at  
each time to a light will be sufficient 
for the plants until the middle of      
,january and from that time more will be
 necessary4 ,in applying the water you  
must be guided in a great measure by the
 state of the weather4 ,take the        
opportunity of watering when the sun is 
out1 and then close them down for about 
a quarter of an hour or more1 according 
to the season of the year4 ,at all      
times1 before watering1 admit double the
 usual quantity of air about a quarter  
of an hour previous to the application1 
for the purpose of hardening the plants4
  ,water may be applied at any time of  
the day1 if the heat is good1 but the   

most preferable time is certainly about 
eleven o'clock in the morning1          
particularly as the season advances     
towards the months of ,april and ,may1  
and the weather becomes more temperate1 
and the sun has greater power4 ,after   
they are watered1 shut them down for    
about ten minutes or a quarter of an    
hour1 and let them have the benefit of a
 clear sun2 then shade them with a mat  
for two or three hours1 and shut the    
frame close down1 in order that a moist 
sweet steam heat may be produced1 which 
will cause the fruit to swell very      
quick4 ,at one or two o'clock take off  
the mat and admit a little air4 ,when   
the sun is clear and the weather hot1   
let them be shaded from eleven to two   
o'clock2 some evergreen boughs or       
pea-sticks are very good things4        
,should the above directions be found   
inconvenient to attend to1 the          
difficulty may be obviated by adopting  
the following method4 ,after the plants 
are watered in a morning1 shut them     

down1 for the space of about ten        
minutes1 then give them a little air2 in
 about the same time increase it1 and so
 gradually until the proper quantity is 
admitted4 ,the gradual admission of air 
is extremely important1 and ought1      
therefore1 to be particularly attended  
to4  ,the frames should never be shut   
down too long in the morning of the     
spring and summer months2 a little air  
should be given at eight o'clock1 if the
 weather is fine1 in an hour it will be 
necessary to increase it2 afterwards    
attending to it according to the state  
of the weather4  ,in order to produce   
fine fruit in the early part of the     
season1 that is in ,february and ,march2
 let only one grow on a plant at a time4
 ,keep the male blossoms rubbed off when
 young1 to prevent their weakening the  
plants2 the best method of doing which  
is with a small pointed stick4  ,as soon
 as the plants begin to show fruit1     
leave a few male blossoms to set the    
fruit with4 ,if this be not attended to 

in the early part of the season#e the   
fruit will not swell off1 as it is the  
female blossom alone that bears it1 and 
if these be not impregnated with the    
male they will prove unfruitful4 ,the   
female flower may easily be             
distinguished from the male1 by the     
appearance of the fruit at the bottom of
 the blossom which the other does not   
possess4  ,when the female flower is in 
full bloom1 take a male blossom which is
 in full bloom also1 and hold it in one 
hand1 with the other split it down1 and 
tear off the flowers1 being careful at  
the same time not to injure the male    
part2 then hold the male blossom between
 the forefinger and thumb of the right  
hand1 while the female flower is held   
between the middle and forefinger of the
 left hand2 then put the male blossom in
 the centre of the female1 and the      
farina will adhere to it1 and have the  
desired effect2 should it1 however1     
happen to fall out after it is done1 it 
is of no consequence whatever1 as the   

impregnation is received the instant it 
is put in4  ,the proper time to set the 
fruit is in the morning1 as it always   
comes in bloom at night1 and if left    
until the afternoon the blossom of the  
fruit closes a little1 in consequence of
 which it is doubtful whether fruition  
will be effected4  ,in order to         
ascertain whether the male blossom is   
good2 after you have prepared it as     
above described for use1 draw the       
farina1 or genitals1 across the         
thumb-nail1 and if good1 it will leave a
 glutinous substance resembling gum4    
,as soon as the fruit becomes the size  
of your finger let no more than one be  
upon a plant at a time to swell off1 and
 when beginning to grow crooked give the
 stalk end a twist1 place them on their 
backs1 put a peg to the side1 and the   
heat of the bed will soon draw them down
 and make them straight4  ,a cucumber is
 a plant that requires much water1      
particularly when bearing fruit3 it will
 be necessary then to give from one to  

two gallons each time according to the  
heat of the bed1 and temperature of the 
weather4 ,if the season is fine and the 
heat good they will require water every 
other day1 but if the weather is dull1  
and the heat slack1 be very cautious in 
applying the water lest they should get 
the canker1 which is a dangerous        
disorder1 and very difficult to be      
removed4 ,the best thing in such a case 
is to give a strong heat1 and be very   
moderate in the application of water4   
,after the plants have been ridged out a
 fortnight it will be necessary to shut 
them down in the afternoon1 about an    
hour before they are covered up4 ,they  
will1 however1 require air in the night1
 generally till the fruit is cut1 and   
even then if the weather is mild2 for by
 being kept close at night when there is
 a strong heat1 the fruit is liable to  
change colour and become of a yellow    
cast4  ,the plants should be uncovered  
in a morning by eight o'clock1 or nine  
at farthest1 in the winter1 and six or  

seven as the season advances1 unless the
 weather is very cold or windy1 when    
they may remain an hour longer than     
usual4  ,should the frame be infested   
with woodlice1 place some cabbage-leaves
 or a small quantity of hay in the bed1 
which will answer the purpose of a trap 
to collect them1 when they may be easily
 destroyed by boiling water4 ,care1     
however1 is necessary in this expedient1
 for should the plants have taken root  
at the side of the box1 the hot water   
will materially injure them2 but if the 
plants are kept healthy1 little danger  
is to be apprehended from this          
description of vermin1 as they always   
like a sickly stagnated plant to a      
thriving vigorous one4 ,mice are        
sometimes extremely troublesome1 but may
 be destroyed by procuring from a       
,chemist some ground ox vomicae1 and    
applying it in the following manner4    
,mix the drug with some water1 stir it  
up well1 and let it boil about ten      
minutes2 take it off the fire and put in

 some wheat or cucumber seed1 letting it
 steep for ten or twelve hours2 or      
spread some ox vomicae not boiled upon  
bread and fresh butter1 place this in   
the bed near the holes at which they    
enter1 which will effectually extirpate 
them4  ,with regard to the time of      
cutting fruit#f from ,october sown      
plants1 much depends upon the weather1  
some seasons being much finer than      
others4 ,fruit from the ,october seed   
has been cut off by the ,author as early
 as the middle of ,january1 while at    
another time it has been as late as the 
beginning of ,march2 he1 however1 is    
well satisfied if it is ready to cut by 
the middle of ,february3 indeed1 upon an
 average this may be fairly considered  
as the probable time for its mature     
growth4  ,it is not advisable in any    
young beginner to sow seed in ,november 
or ,december until about the twentieth  
of the latter month1 as plants grown in 
that season are very liable to be       
retarded in their growth1 while those   

sown from about the twentieth of        
,december to the beginning of ,january  
will grow much stronger and quicker1 as 
they possess the advantage of the       
increase of the season4 ,an experienced 
framer1 however1 can grow plants at any 
time of the year1 and from those sown at
 the above time1 he may expect to cut   
fruit by the twentieth of ,march or     
towards the latter end of that month1   
according to the weather2 much depending
 upon that and the situation of the     
framing grounds1 which should at all    
times be open to the sun1 and defended  
from the winds4  ,,footnotes3  #d ,the  
,author would recommend ,january-sown   
plants1 after having been topped at the 
first joint1 to run four joints1 then   
topped again at the first joint1 when   
they will generally show fruit1 and1 if 
properly attended to1 will swell off to 
seven or eight inches in length1 as the 
first shows do not come so fine as those
 afterwards4 ,do not let more than one  
fruit swell upon a plant at a time1 as  

more will cause them to grow ill-shaped1
 and not near so fine4  #e ,there is no 
necessity for setting the fruit beyond  
the latter end of ,may1 as by that time 
the bees will find their way to the     
frames1 and prove equally effective4  #f
 ,the ,author has tried several sorts1  
but at present only makes use of three  
kinds of frame cucumber1 which he       
considers preferable to all the others4 
,one is a long black prickly fruit1 with
 a fine bloom and short handle1 well    
filled up4 ,it will sometimes grow for  
table to the length of fifteen inches1  
and usually from eleven to twelve4 ,it  
is an excellent bearer1 but not so well 
adapted for ,october sowing as the other
 two kinds1 from its tender qualities1  
being thin leaved and less hardy3 it is1
 however1 a very good sort for ,january 
and spring sowing4 ,the other two kinds 
very much resemble each other1 and will 
frequently grow to the length of twelve 
inches1 filled up in the handle1 black1 
prickly1 and carry a good bloom4 ,their 

usual dimensions are from eight to ten  
inches2 being thick-leaved and          
particularly hardy4 ,both these are well
 calculated for the ,october bed1 and   
excellent bearers for spring sowing4    
,the ,author obtained them both by      
impregnating2 and those who purchase the
 work of him1 may be accommodated with a
 few of the seeds of either of the      
above1 gratis4     ,,the ,,seed-,,bed   
,,for ,,january4  ,to be sown in the    
beginning of the ,month4   ,as this is  
the season in which ,gardeners in       
general sow seed for cucumbers1 it will 
be necessary to take notice of a few    
directions which vary from the ,october 
seed-bed4  ,at this time of the year    
young plants are much slower in their   
growth1 and more difficult to be reared 
than in ,october1 consequently they     
require a stronger bottom bed1 though   
made in the same manner as above        
directed4 ,the dung must undergo the    
same process in working1 but should be  
six inches higher2 it will also require 

more wrapping and covering1 particularly
 if the weather is very cold2 in this1  
however1 as before1 you must be guided  
by the temperature of the season2 taking
 care not to cover too much at first4   
,for the first fortnight a double mat   
will be sufficient2 and after that1 if  
the weather is intense1 increase the    
covering1 by adding hay to the thickness
 of six or nine inches1 with a mat over 
it4 ,air should be admitted night and   
day1 according to the state of the      
weather2 but they may be closed down for
 about an hour1 before covering up1     
after they are a fortnight old4  ,the   
plants should be ridged out young1 at   
least when they are a month old2 but be 
very particular in having the           
fruiting-frame perfectly sweet before   
they are placed in it1 as it is much    
better to keep them in the pots a week1 
or even a fortnight1 beyond the time1   
than to ridge them out before the bed is
 in a proper condition4  ,be careful in 
keeping a good heat2 in having the      

lining applied in proper time2 and in   
well wrapping them up4 ,the lining will 
be required when they are three weeks   
old at the back and front4 ,it should be
 two feet wide about half way up the    
bed1 and lined with litter to the width 
of six inches1 for the purpose of       
keeping the lining in a proper          
condition3 wrap it up also within three 
inches of the top1 drawing it in        
gradually to about eighteen inches wide4
 ,with the exception of the foregoing   
directions1 the method of treatment must
 be exactly the same as given in the    
,seed-bed for ,october4     ,,on ,,the  
,,management ,,required ,,in ,,the      
,,culture ,,of ,,the  ,late ,cucumber4  
,the proper time to sow for late        
cucumbers1 that is1 such as are grown in
 boxes and lights1 and have no necessity
 for linings1 is from the middle of     
,march to the middle of ,april2 and     
after that time seed may be put in for  
the hand-glass4  ,those that are sown in
 the middle of ,march will require      

stronger beds than those sown a         
fortnight or three weeks afterwards1 and
 should be made from two feet six inches
 to three feet high2 while the latter   
will not require beds higher than two   
feet4  ,let a trench be dug the size of 
the frame1 about eighteen inches deep1  
and if the soil is light and rich that  
is thrown out1 the bed may be formed of 
it2 but if a strong loam it will not    
answer the purpose4  ,as soon as the bed
 is made tread it down well1 make it    
even1 and let it have about six inches  
fall from the back to the front2 then   
place on the boxes and light2 and when  
the heat rises1 admit from one to two   
inches of air4 ,in about a week it will 
be necessary to put the mould in for the
 hills in the proportion of a           
barrow-full to a light4 ,this must be   
levelled about an inch all over the bed 
to prevent the rank steam from injuring 
the plants4 ,on the following day they  
may be ridged out1 when the mould must  
be pressed with the hands close down    

round the roots of the plants2 and water
 applied1 which should be at the same   
time sprinkled regularly all over the   
bed4 ,add now plenty of air1 night and  
day1 until the bed becomes perfectly    
sweet1 which is generally the case in   
about a week2 after which they may be   
shut down at night4  ,let the topping be
 the same as directed for the ,seed-bed 
in ,october2 if the soil is light and   
rich1 have a bank on the outside about a
 foot or eighteen inches wide1 and as   
high1 or even higher than the bottom of 
the box4 ,this will prove a great       
support to the plants2 be the means of  
producing an abundant crop of fruit2 and
 obviate the necessity of laying2 which 
must otherwise be the case if this plan 
is not adopted1 or the boxes are        
unusually large4 ,should laying1        
however1 be preferred1 great attention  
must be paid to it1 and the same method 
adopted as prescribed for the early     
cucumber4  ,particular care is requisite
 in the culture of the late cucumber to 

preserve it from the canker2 the best   
means that can be adopted to prevent    
this injury is to keep them thin of     
vine1 and always apply soft water4 ,this
 should be given in the morning1 or1 if 
not then convenient1 never later than   
three o'clock in the afternoon1 when the
 vines will have an opportunity of      
drying before night3 a fine day should  
always be taken advantage of for this   
purpose1 which will tend considerably to
 accelerate their growth4 ,admit a      
double quantity of air for a quarter of 
an hour before watering2 and while the  
nights continue cold1 be careful in     
keeping them covered up4 ,in some       
seasons1 when the weather is inclement1 
it will be necessary to observe this    
even until ,midsummer4  ,by strict      
attention to the foregoing directions1  
no danger need be apprehended from the  
canker1 as it generally proceeds from a 
cold chill2 suffering the plants to grow
 too thick of vine1 which keeps them    
continually moist2 and not admitting a  

sufficient quantity of air necessary to 
harden them4  ,in ridging out the       
plants1 put two in small lights and     
three in larger ones2 and when the roots
 appear through the hills1 add mould to 
them2 observing1 that they will require 
moulding up much quicker than those     
grown at the early season3 in fact1     
after they have been ridged out about a 
fortnight or three weeks1 it will be    
necessary to mould them up fully4  ,if  
the weather is fine1 from one to two    
gallons of water for each light will be 
necessary every two or three days4      
,keep them pegged and laid about once a 
fortnight2 and be particular also in    
having them thin of vine1 topped at the 
first joint2 then allowing them to run  
four1 and afterwards topping them again 
at the first1 as before mentioned in the
 ,january sown plants4 ,by observing    
these directions1 a good crop of fruit  
may be ensured1 which will be ready to  
cut in about a month or five weeks after
 they have been ridged out4     ,,on    

,,the ,,management ,,required ,,in ,,the
 ,,culture ,,of ,,the  ,hand-glass      
,cucumber4   ,the best time to sow for  
the hand-glass cucumber is from the     
middle of ,april to the beginning of    
,may2 though they may be sown from the  
tenth of ,april until the middle of     
,may2 and the plants may be grown in the
 early cucumber or melon beds4  ,when   
they are potted off1 put three plants in
 each pot1 being particular in not      
filling them more than three parts full1
 as they are very liable at this time of
 the year to draw up long in the stem4  
,merely cover the roots with mould at   
first2 in the course of two or three    
days add a little more2 and in about a  
week fill up the pots to the brim4  ,it 
is necessary to give them as much air as
 possible2 and to have them placed at   
the back of the bed1 as near the glass  
as convenient4 ,they must be well       
supplied with water1 and let them be    
topped at the first joint4  ,by this    
mode of treatment1 you may have strong  

stuggy plants1 fit to put under the     
hand-glass in three weeks2 at all       
events1 they should not be kept in the  
pots longer than a month1 as there is a 
probability1 if that time is exceeded1  
of their being stinted in the growth4   
,the soil best calculated to ridge them 
out in1 is a light rich earth4 ,if the  
soil is of a strong loamy nature1 add   
some leaf mould or rotten dung to it1   
and mix it up well together4  ,dig a    
trench about a foot in depth1 and three 
feet wide1 and let the bed be made up   
about a foot above the level1 that is1  
two feet from the bottom of the trench2 
tread it down well1 level it1 and apply 
some water if it is dry2 then put the   
mould on1 and let it be dug a spit deep1
 and eighteen inches wide on each side  
of the trench2 afterwards put some dung 
or leaf mould on1 and dig it in4 ,level 
the mould down1 so that the bed will be 
about six feet wide1 and nine or ten    
inches deep1 taking care to leave it a  
little higher in the middle1 where the  

dung is placed1 in order that the mould 
may not settle1 and become lower in the 
centre1 which will have a tendency to   
injure the plants by absorbing the      
water1 which is most required at the    
outsides4  ,it is an excellent plan1 if 
the ground is disengaged two or three   
months previous to the time it is wanted
 for the cucumber bed1 to mark it out   
six feet wide1 and put in six inches of 
dung or leaf mould1 and lay it up in    
ridges of two feet six inches in width1 
and a foot in depth4 ,when wanted for   
use1 level it down1 and dig a trench    
three feet wide for the dung1 levelling 
it as before directed4 ,this method1 if 
it can be conveniently attended to1 is  
certainly preferable to the other1 as it
 allows an opportunity of incorporating 
the dung and mould together4 ,if hot    
dung cannot be easily obtained1 it may  
be dispensed with1 provided the seed is 
not sown earlier than the month of ,may4
  ,let the ground be ridged up as before
 directed1 and when wanted for use1     

level it down2 then mark out six feet   
wide beds for each1 and three feet      
alleys2 afterwards place the line to the
 middle of the ridge1 and mark out three
 feet six inches1 which must be the     
distance from the centre of each glass4 
,take out two spadesful of the mould1   
level it on the ridge1 and put one      
spadeful of light rich earth in its     
place1 for the purpose of receiving the 
seed4 ,if the natural soil is light and 
rich1 take out one spadeful1 making it  
round and hollow1 about eight inches    
wide2 then sow the seed from eight to   
twelve under each glass4 ,if the mould  
is dry1 apply water to the seed1 place  
the glasses on1 and shut them down      
close1 observing as they become dry1 to 
sprinkle them with water4  ,after the   
seed has been up about a week1 it will  
be necessary to thin them out1 in the   
proportion of six plants to each glass2 
and in the week following reduce them to
 three1 which is the proper number to be
 grown together finally for a crop4     

,when they are thus divided1 put some   
light mould round the stems of the      
plants1 which should be done at two     
different times1 allowing a week to     
elapse between each application1 and    
filling up the hollow that is left4  ,as
 soon as they have made two rough       
leaves1 top them at the second joint4   
,this is a plan which may be adopted    
with success4 ,hot dung is also of great
 advantage1 as it will cause them to    
come into bearing nearly a month sooner 
than would otherwise be the case4       
,after the plants have been topped1 as  
above directed1 let them run to six     
joints1 and then top them again1 when   
they will show fruit1 which may be      
topped at the first joint4 ,if the      
hand-glasses are large1 fruit will be   
ready to cut very early4  ,be particular
 in not suffering them to run to too    
much vine2 six joints is quite          
sufficient at the first1 and afterwards 
always keep them topped at the first or 
second joint4 ,by strict attention to   

this mode of treatment1 you may ensure a
 more abundant crop1 and much finer     
fruit1 than can be calculated upon from 
the usual method of suffering the vine  
to grow to a considerable length1 which 
tends materially to weaken and exhaust  
the plant4  ,let them be kept under the 
glasses as long as possible1 without    
danger of injuring them1 admitting a    
small quantity of air in the day-time1  
when the weather is warm1 by means of a 
piece of wood1 in the form of a wedge1  
about seven inches long1 five inches    
wide1 flat1 and about three inches at   
the top4 ,this will enable you to rise  
or fall the glass according to the      
quantity of air necessary to be         
admitted4  ,before placing the vine     
outside the glasses1 it will be         
necessary to admit a larger portion of  
air1 both night and day1 for three or   
four days1 in order to harden the       
plants2 then mulch the bed all over with
 litter1 which will cause the fruit to  
be kept clean1 and the roots moist1 an  

essential requisite in the culture of   
cucumbers4  ,though moisture is so      
extremely necessary1 yet at all times in
 the application of water you must be   
regulated by the temperature of the     
season4 ,if the weather is hot and dry  
when they come into full bearing1 from  
three to four gallons of water will be  
required to each glass every two or     
three days1 if the soil is light1 but if
 of a strong loamy nature1 less will be 
sufficient4  ,lay out the vines regular1
 peg them down1 and place four half     
bricks1 that is1 one to each corner1    
under the frame of the glass2 or another
 method may be adopted1 in raising the  
glass to the south by means of a piece  
of stick1 about the thickness of a      
broom-stick1 a foot in length1 with     
three notches cut in it1 about two      
inches apart1 for the purpose of resting
 the glass upon4 ,this plan is far      
preferable to the former1 in materially 
accelerating the growth of the fruit1 by
 preventing too great a current of air2 

besides possessing the advantage of     
easier access to the plants1 when there 
is a necessity for examining them4 ,it  
is1 however1 requisite when this method 
is adopted1 that the ridges should      
always front the south4  ,if the above  
directions are strictly attended to1 and
 the season is in any degree favorable1 
a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be   
expected4     ,,dimensions ,,of ,,the   
,,boxes ,,and ,,lights ,,for  ,early and
 ,late ,cucumbers4   ,three-light ,boxes
 for ,october sowing4  ,the boxes should
 be made of good seasoned deal1 one inch
 and a half thick1 ten feet seven inches
 long1 four feet three inches wide1 and 
one foot eight inches deep at the back1 
and eleven inches in the front4 ,the    
bars to be three inches wide1 to have   
two narrow slips two inches in height1  
and one slip at each end4 ,the bars to  
be fluted on each side of the slips1    
with oak corners1 five inches wide4     
,the lights to be four feet three inches
 and a half long1 three feet six inches 

wide1 and the back rail two inches and  
three quarters wide2 the front to be    
three inches1 and the sides two inches  
and a half2 with three bars1 rounded off
 to a point inside1 three quarters of an
 inch wide4 ,to be made of good seasoned
 deal1 and to have horns both in the    
back and front4 ,the squares must be    
formed of strong crown glass1 leaded and
 cemented2 let there be five in length1 
the one in front being five inches long4
 ,a small iron bar must be passed in the
 middle1 under the lead of each light1  
which must also have iron handles4      
,one-light ,box for ,october sowing4    
,this must be in length four feet eight 
inches1 three feet seven inches wide1   
one foot eight inches deep at the back1 
and eleven inches in the front4  ,the   
lights to be half an inch longer than   
the box2 and in all other respects the  
same as those before described4   ,for  
,january sowing4  ,the boxes to be ten  
feet seven inches long1 four feet eight 
inches wide1 one foot eight inches deep 

at the back1 and eleven inches in the   
front4 ,the bars and slips the same as  
for ,october4  ,the lights to be four   
feet eight inches and a half long1 and  
three feet six inches wide1 with four   
bars1 six squares long1 rabitted1       
puttied1 and a small piece of lead      
across to every square4 ,in other       
respects to be the same as those for    
,october4   ,for ,spring sowing4  ,the  
boxes to be one foot two inches deep at 
the back1 and eight inches in the front4
 ,in other respects1 the boxes as well  
as the lights for spring sowing1 must be
 the same as those directed for the     
,january seed-bed4  ,both boxes and     
lights should have three coats of paint1
 white inside1 and a dark lead colour on
 the outside4     ,,on ,,the ,,culture  
,,of ,,the ,,early ,,and ,,late  ,melon4
   ,,on ,,the ,,management ,,required   
,,in ,,the ,,culture ,,of  ,early and   
,late ,melons4   ,for early melons have 
three loads of dung for a three-light   
box2 but if you have previously grown   

early cucumbers1 the old linings will be
 useful for the melon bed1 by mixing a  
proportion of one half of fresh dung    
with it4 ,this1 in fact1 will be better 
than all fresh1 as it requires only once
 turning1 whereas new dung should be    
turned twice4 ,in gentlemen's gardens   
there is generally an abundance of      
leaves1 and sometimes a scarcity of     
dung2 when such is the case1 leaves1    
mixed with an equal proportion of dung1 
may be used very successfully for the   
early melon2 and for the late one all   
leaves1 from trees or shrubs1 will      
answer the purpose1 particularly where  
there are brick pits4  ,let the dung be 
put together for a week1 and lay the    
same time before it is turned4 ,be      
careful that the bottom is dry where the
 bed is built2 raise it with mould or   
road sand to the height of six or eight 
inches1 and allow the bottom to be eight
 or nine inches longer and wider than   
the box1 so that when the bed is made1  
it may be drawn up in a gradual manner  

to about three or four inches wider than
 the box1 observing at the same time to 
beat it well down with a fork4 ,let it  
be about three feet nine inches at the  
back by three feet six inches in the    
front2 should there1 however1 happen to 
be a scarcity of dung1 a foot of        
strawberry or asparagus halm1 fagots1 or
 pieces of wood1 or1 indeed1 some of    
each1 may be added at the bottom of the 
bed4  ,if the dung is dry1 apply water  
to it1 that it may be properly          
moistened2 and after the bed is formed1 
let it be again watered1 as the plants  
will not thrive so well1 nor the linings
 have the proper effect1 if the bed is  
kept too dry4  ,the bed should be made  
three weeks or a month before the plants
 are put into it1 and must be perfectly 
sweet before they are ridged out4 ,when 
the bed is in a proper condition1 hollow
 it out in the middle to the depth of   
four inches1 and put a large barrow-fall
 of mould to each hill1 pressing it down
 close with the hand about a foot deep4 

,the day before you intend to ridge out1
 put a pot of plants in the bed1 to     
prove whether it is sweet1 which1 if you
 ascertain to be the case1 and the box  
is large1 ridge them out1 three plants  
to a light2 but if small two will be    
sufficient4  ,the proper time to sow the
 seed for an early crop is about the    
middle of ,january2 and the early       
cucumber bed will do very well for the  
purpose4 ,those sown at this time will  
be fit to cut in the first or second    
week of ,may2 but if there is no        
particular necessity for fruit so early1
 the beginning of ,february is a        
preferable season to sow1 when they will
 be ready to cut by the latter end of   
,may or the beginning of ,june4  ,the   
,early ,cantaloupe is the best sort for 
an early crop4 ,let them be sown in leaf
 mould1 about eighteen or twenty seeds  
in a forty-eight size pot2 immediately  
apply water1 and plunge the pots in a   
good sharp heat4 ,as soon as the seed   
makes its appearance1 which will be in  

the course of about three days1 if it is
 good1 un-plunge the pots and give them 
a little water4 ,in two or three days   
more they will be fit to pot off1 which 
ought always to be done when about a    
week old1 as they strike much more      
freely when potted off young4 ,let the  
soil for potting off the plants be half 
leaf mould1 and half light loam or bog  
earth4  ,the best season to sow for a   
second crop is the beginning of ,march1 
and well calculated for the ,stroud     
,rock1 ,scarlet ,rock1 ,white-seeded    
,rock1 ,green ,flesh1 and1 in fact1 many
 others of nearly the same description1 
though under different names1 which they
 have derived from those gardeners who  
have cultivated them by impregnating one
 with the other4 ,it is by no means1    
however1 advisable to sow the ,black    
,rock before the latter end of ,march1  
as it is only calculated for a late     
melon1 and should be grown in large     
boxes1 two plants to a light4 ,this1    
though a fine looking fruit1 and well   

flavoured1 will not suit those whose    
object is to produce a large quantity2  
for1 by attempting to grow more than two
 in a light1 they will not rock1 nor    
arrive to any degree of perfection4#g   
,the ,stroud ,rock is a particular      
favourite with the ,author1 who has     
produced fruit of this kind upwards of  
seven pounds in weight1 though the      
common size varies from three to five4  
,this description of melon is not       
generally known1 although it is a fine  
looking and excellent flavoured fruit3  
it possesses a thin skin1               
orange-coloured flesh1 and the rind is  
very dark4  ,the ,scarlet ,rock is1     
however1 the finest flavoured melon that
 can be produced1 though small in its   
growth1 seldom exceeding the weight of  
three pounds1 and commonly from one to  
two4 ,the flesh is of a deep scarlet    
colour1 and it is rather inclined to    
rock4  ,the ,early ,cantaloupe is the   
most productive melon in bearing2 but in
 order to obtain them good flavoured no 

more than one fruit must be suffered to 
swell on a plant at a time1 except the  
lights are large1 when two may be       
allowed1 that is1 six in a light2 but   
if1 however1 the plants are confined to 
one fruit1 a second crop may be         
obtained4  ,the ,white-seeded ,rock is a
 very fine melon in appearance1 and much
 approved of by some gardeners for its  
qualities in ripening early for a rock2 
but it will not1 however1 keep long1    
soon loses its flavour1 and the colour  
changes very yellow2 it is also         
extremely tender in its growth1 and very
 inferior in flavour to the ,stroud     
,rock2 neither is it so handsome a      
fruit1 so well-flavoured1 nor does it   
ripen any sooner4  ,the ,green ,flesh is
 a fine flavoured melon1 with a thin    
skin1 but generally small in its        
dimensions4 ,the ,author has1 however1 a
 sort of this kind that will grow from  
three to five pounds in weight4  ,the   
,black ,rock melon should not be sown   
later than the latter end of ,may2 the  

,stroud and ,scarlet ,rock may be sown  
as late as the tenth of ,june2 and the  
,early ,cantaloupe about the twentieth  
of ,june4  ,in order to produce fine    
fruit1 be particular in having a good   
depth of earth1 from a foot to eighteen 
inches will be necessary4 ,when the     
hills are made for the very early       
melons1 one large barrow-full of mould  
will be sufficient1 which must be       
pressed down close with the hand4 ,those
 that are sown in ,march will require   
one barrow-full and a half1 and those   
afterwards two4 ,in applying this mould1
 put one barrow-full in first1 and tread
 it down2 then add the remainder1 and   
press it close down with the hand4      
,procure some good holding loam of a    
greasy nature1 such as is generally     
found in the marshes1 which is the most 
preferable kind of soil for melons1 and 
let it be well weathered before using4  
,it ought to lay twelve1 or at the least
 six months4 ,mix this with a sixth     
proportion of good rotten dung or leaf  

mould1 and let it be turned over two or 
three different times1 that it may be   
properly sweetened and incorporated     
together2 taking care1 however1 that it 
is not broken too fine4  ,the mould     
intended for the hills of the first crop
 should be lighter than for those grown 
afterwards1 being composed of light     
loam1 mixed with a sixth part of leaf   
mould or rotten dung2 or an equal       
proportion of stiff loam and leaf mould4
 ,as mould is added after the plants    
have been ridged out1 let it be trod    
down close1 and take particular care    
that the roots are never exposed to the 
sun1 but as soon as they make their     
appearance through the hills1 increase  
the mould1 in the proportion of a       
barrow-full to each hill for the early  
melon1 and two1 or even more1 to the    
later one4  ,in watering the plants1 as 
the season advances1 you must be        
regulated by the composition of the     
soil1 and the temperature of the        
weather4 ,if the soil is stiff1 it will 

not require half the quantity that      
should be applied to light mould4 ,if   
the weather is warm1 much water is      
necessary1 but if cold very little      
should be given1 as too much moisture at
 that time will create the canker4      
,heat being materially requisite for    
preserving the growth of the melon1     
great care must be taken in keeping the 
bed well supplied with linings1 which   
must be added until the weather becomes 
fine and settled2 they will generally be
 required until the beginning of ,june2 
but if the season is even then cold1 it 
is better to continue them longer4  ,in 
covering up the early plants1 at the    
first ridging out1 a single or double   
mat will be sufficient2 after that add a
 little hay1 and increase it if the     
weather is cold4 ,this should be        
continued until the middle of ,june1 or 
later1 if the season is unfavourable4   
,many gardeners being unacquainted with 
the proper mode of training and topping 
the melon1 and thereby finding it       

extremely difficult to set the fruit1   
the ,author will here give the method   
always pursued by himself1 which1 if    
strictly observed1 will be found to be  
attended with far less trouble1 and more
 certain in its effect than the plan    
generally adopted4  ,when the plants are
 potted off1 top them at the second     
break2 that is1 let them grow to two    
leaves2 then take out the break1 which  
in some kinds is in the centre1 and in  
others in the second leaf4 ,if you      
require the fruit very fine1 two plants 
will be sufficient in a light2 but      
should there be no particular necessity 
in that respect1 and the lights are     
sufficiently capacious1 three may be    
matured extremely well4  ,have four     
runners to a light2 that is1 if two     
plants1 two runners to each2 but if     
three1 two runners to one plant1 and one
 to each of the other two4 ,if the      
lights are large1 they may be suffered  
to run to eight joints2 but if1 on the  
contrary1 the lights are confined1 six  

will be sufficient2 and all other breaks
 that come out at home1 with the first  
break that issues from the runners1     
should be effectually taken away1 in    
order that the others may derive        
strength and nourishment4 ,as soon as   
they make the first breaks from the     
runners1 which by some are denominated  
cross bars1 top them at the first joint1
 and in most sorts they will generally  
show fruit2 but if it should so happen  
that this does not succeed1 top them    
again1 when they are certain of showing 
fruit at the second4  ,if they are      
impregnated in the same manner as       
prescribed in the directions for the    
cucumber1 there will be no difficulty in
 setting the fruit1 which will also show
 much bolder1 and possess greater       
strength when topped in close4  ,every  
description of melon will be brought to 
a greater degree of perfection1 by being
 suffered to swell off on the first     
shows1 which can alone be effected by   
keeping them thin of vine3 if this is   

particularly attended to1 no            
apprehension need be entertained of the 
fruit being small or delicate1 as1 in   
proportion to the quantity of vine1 so  
it decreases the strength and vigour of 
the plants4  ,great care is necessary in
 watering the plants3 when they are     
young1 it should be applied with a rose2
 but as soon as the runners are extended
 all over the bed1 that may be dispensed
 with4 ,if the weather is dull1 a small 
quantity of water will be sufficient2   
and if very fine1 more must be applied  
carefully without a rose1 which will be 
found beneficial in causing them to set 
more freely4#h ,an insufficiency of     
moisture is an error too prevalent with 
many gardeners in the culture of the    
melon1 and indeed the inferiority of    
their fruit1 both in weight and flavour1
 may be greatly attributed to want of   
judgment in this particular2 for if the 
plants are kept thin of vine1 the       
necessity of which has been before      
stated1 they are of course more open to 

the air1 and the sun has greater power  
in drying up the soil1 consequently the 
plants will become exhausted1 and the   
fruit will ripen before its growth is   
properly matured4  ,the ,early          
,cantaloupe melon1 if left to its full  
time1 will be five weeks from the period
 of setting before it ripens2 the       
,stroud about six2 the ,scarlet seven2  
and the ,black ,rock upwards of seven2  
there will1 however1 be some difference 
between those forced early with bottom  
heat1 and those grown late2 the early   
ones coming to perfection three or four 
days1 or even a week before the other4  
,the proper time to sow for under-ground
 melons1 that is1 such as are grown     
without linings1 is from the            
twenty-fifth of ,march to the twentieth 
of ,june2 observing1 at the same time1  
that those which are sown in ,march will
 require stronger beds than those that  
are set three weeks or a month later4   
,the beds for the first should be formed
 of good dung1 well worked1 and three   

feet in height2 whereas the latter will 
only require two feet4 ,dig a trench the
 size of the frame1 about eighteen      
inches deep2 and if the soil is a strong
 good holding loam1 it will answer the  
purpose for any description of rock     
melon2 they requiring a strong soil to  
bring them to perfection2 a light loam1 
however1 may be used for the ,early     
,cantaloupe4  ,as soon as the bed is    
formed1 tread it down well1 make it     
even1 and let it have about six inches  
fall from the back to the front2 then   
put on the boxes and lights1 and when   
the heat rises to its proper height1    
which will be in the course of three or 
four days1 put the mould in for the     
hills1 in the proportion of two         
barrows-full to a light1 levelling it   
about an inch all over the bed1 for the 
purpose of preventing the rank steam    
from injuring the plants4 ,on the       
following day they may be ridged out1   
and watered1 being very particular in   
sprinkling the bed regularly over4      

,admit air freely both night and day at 
first1 until the bed is purified1 and   
becomes perfectly sweet2 this will be   
the case in about a week1 when they may 
be shut down at night4 ,let the topping 
and training be the same as directed for
 the early ones4  ,if the soil is       
strong1 and of a binding nature1 a bank 
may be made on the outside1 at the back 
and front1 about a foot or eighteen     
inches wide1 which will prove a great   
support to the fruit1 and cause them to 
grow much larger and finer2 but if the  
soil is light and rich1 by no means make
 a bank1 nor ridge out the plants in it1
 as mould of that description is not at 
all adapted for the production of fine  
melons4 ,the only one that will in any  
degree thrive in light rich soil is the 
,early ,cantaloupe2 but any kind of the 
rock description will never come to     
perfection4  ,it is here necessary to   
observe that it is impossible ever to   
obtain fine or good flavoured fruit1 if 
more than one is suffered to swell on a 

plant at a time1 as that support which  
is essential and ought to be directed to
 one object1 by becoming divided1 is    
insufficient for the perfection of more1
 and naturally weakens the fruit1 and   
renders it of little or no value4  ,many
 horticulturists experience much        
difficulty from the effects of the red  
spider and canker in melons2 the former 
being caused by keeping them too dry1   
and the latter arising from too much    
moisture4 ,in order to avoid these      
evils1 the following directions should  
be particularly attended to4 ,when the  
weather is hot1 or there is a strong    
bottom heat1 it is necessary to be free 
in the application of water1 especially 
round the sides of the boxes2 for when  
the plants cover the bed1 it will not be
 requisite to give any in the centre    
over the stems4  ,when the plants cover 
the surface of the bed always water     
without a rose1 observing that it should
 be invariably done in the morning1 and 
when the weather is fine1 so as to allow

 the vines to get dry before night1     
which will not be the case1 if it is    
applied in the afternoon2 and should the
 following day be dull1 and perhaps     
continue so for three or four1 the vines
 will remain wet1 and then there is     
every probability of their getting the  
canker1 which entirely proceeds from a  
cold chill1 created by unnecessary      
moisture4  ,the canker is a very        
destructive disorder1 and extremely     
difficult to eradicate4 ,the only means 
that can be adopted1 or likely to prove 
beneficial1 is to keep the plants as dry
 as possible1 and to give a good heat2  
being careful1 at the same time1 not to 
run into the other extreme1 and create  
the red spider4 ,if1 however1 the plants
 are kept thin of vine1 and water is    
applied in the manner before directed1  
no fear need be entertained of either of
 the above disorders4  ,,footnotes3  #g 
,the ,author has in his possession a    
sort of this description1 from which he 
has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds

 in weight4  #h ,as the season advances1
 and the sun becomes powerful1 it will  
be necessary to shade them from the     
extreme violence of the heat4 ,mats are 
generally made use of1 but the ,author  
considers evergreen boughs far          
preferable1 as the former entirely      
precludes the sun1 whereas the latter is
 beneficial to the plants1 in admitting 
it partially4 ,this will be generally   
requisite from about ten until two2 and 
at that time1 in proportion to the      
degree of shade1 a larger quantity of   
air must be admitted4     ,,dimensions  
,,of ,,the ,,boxes ,,and ,,lights ,,for 
,early and late ,melons4   ,boxes and   
,lights for the first early ,melons4    
,the wood-work should be of the same    
thickness1 as those directed for early  
cucumbers1 and the boxes of the same    
length2 but two feet deep at the back1  
five feet wide1 and one foot three      
inches in the front4   ,for ,melons sown
 from the middle of ,february until the 
latter end of ,march1 grown with        

linings4  ,the boxes and lights to be   
the same in thickness1 length1 and      
depth2 five feet six inches wide2 four  
bars to a light1 with a small iron bar  
across the middle1 in the inside1 under 
the lead-work4   ,for late ,melons1     
grown without ,linings4  ,the boxes and 
lights to be the same as those before   
described1 with the exception of being  
eighteen inches deep at the back1 by    
eleven inches in the front4   ,brick    
,pits4  ,let these be formed of nine    
inch brick-work1 sunk one foot          
under-ground2 five feet high at the     
back1 by three feet six inches in the   
front1 from the bottom2 and six feet    
wide in the inside4 ,let the lights be  
three feet eight inches wide4   ,,the   
,,end4  ,,printed ,,by ,s4 ,,cave1      
,,islington ,,green4