,,coral ,,reefs ,by ,charles ,darwin ,,contents ,,detailed ,,table ,,of ,,contents ,,description ,,of ,,the ,,plates ,,the ,,structure ,,and ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral ,,reefs ,,introduction ,,chapter ,i4--,,atolls ,,or ,,lagoon-,,islands ,,chapter ,,ii4--,,barrier ,,reefs ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,fringing ,,or ,,shore-,,reefs ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,and ,,growth ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,chapter ,v4--,,theory ,,of ,,the ,,formation ,,of ,,the ,,different ,,classes ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,with ,,reference ,,to ,,the ,,theory ,,of ,,their ,,formation ,,appendix ,,index ,,detailed ,,table ,,of ,,contents ,,description ,,of ,,the ,,plates ,,introduction ,,chapter ,i4--,,atolls ,,or ,,lagoon-,,islands ,,section ,i4--,,description ,,of ,,keeling ,,atoll4 ,corals on the outer margin4--,zone of ,nullipor4--,exterior reef4--,islets4--,coral-conglomerate4--, lagoon4--,calcareous sediment4--,scari and ,holuthuri subsisting on corals4--,changes in the condition of the reefs and islets4--,probable subsidence of the atoll4--,future state of the lagoon4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,general ,,description ,,of ,,atolls4 ,general form and size of atolls1 their reefs and islets4--,external slope4-- ,zone of ,nullipor4--,conglomerate4--,depth of lagoons4--,sediment4--,reefs submerged wholly or in part4--,breaches in the reef4--,ledge-formed shores round certain lagoons4--,conversion of lagoons into land4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,atolls ,,of ,,the ,,maldiva ,,archipelago--,,great ,,chagos ,,bank4 ,maldiva ,archipelago4--,ring-formed reefs1 marginal and central4--,great depths in the lagoons of the southern atolls4--,reefs in the lagoons all rising to the surface4--,position of islets and breaches in the reefs1 with respect to the prevalent winds and action of the waves4--,destruction of islets4--,connection in the position and submarine foundation of distinct atolls4--,the apparent disseverment of large atolls4--,the ,great ,chagos ,bank4--,its submerged condition and extraordinary structure4 ,,chapter ,,ii4--,,barrier ,,reefs ,closely resemble in general form and structure atoll-reefs4--,width and depth of the lagoon-channels4--,breaches through the reef in front of valleys1 and generally on the leeward side4--,checks to the filling up of the lagoon-channels4--,size and constitution of the encircled islands4-- ,number of islands within the same reef4--,barrier-reefs of ,new ,caledonia and ,australia4--,position of the reef relative to the slope of the adjoining land4--,probable great thickness of barrier-reefs4 ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,fringing ,,or ,,shore-,,reefs ,reefs of ,mauritius4--,shallow channel within the reef4--,its slow filling up4--,currents of water formed within it4--,upraised reefs4--,narrow fringing-reefs in deep seas4--,reefs on the coast of ,e4 ,africa and of ,brazil4--,fringing-reefs in very shallow seas1 round banks of sediment and on worn-down islands4--,fringing-reefs affected by currents of the sea4 --,coral coating the bottom of the sea1 but not forming reefs4 ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,and ,,growth ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,section ,i4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs1 ,,and ,,on ,,the ,,conditions ,,favourable ,,to ,,their ,,increase4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,on ,,the ,,rate ,,of ,,growth ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,on ,,the ,,depths ,,at ,,which ,,reef-,,building ,,polypifers ,,can ,,live4 ,,chapter ,v4--,,theory ,,of ,,the ,,formation ,,of ,,the ,,different ,,classes ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,the atolls of the larger archipelagoes are not formed on submerged craters1 or on banks of sediment4--,immense areas interspersed with atolls4--,recent changes in their state4--,the origin of barrier-reefs and of atolls4--,their relative forms4--,the step-formed ledges and walls round the shores of some lagoons4--,the ring-formed reefs of the ,maldiva atolls4--,the submerged condition of parts or of the whole of some annular reefs4--,the disseverment of large atolls4--,the union of atolls by linear reefs4--,the ,great ,chagos ,bank4--,objections1 from the area and amount of subsidence required by the theory1 considered4--,the probable composition of the lower parts of atolls4 ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,with ,,reference ,,to ,,the ,,theory ,,of ,,their ,,formation ,description of the coloured map4--,proximity of atolls and barrier-reefs4-- ,relation in form and position of atolls with ordinary islands4--,direct evidence of subsidence difficult to be detected4--,proofs of recent elevation where fringing-reefs occur4--,oscillations of level4--,absence of active volcanoes in the areas of subsidence4--,immensity of the areas which have been elevated and have subsided4--,their relation to the present distribution of the land4--,areas of subsidence elongated1 their intersection and alternation with those of elevation4--,amount and slow rate of the subsidence4--,recapitulation4 ,,appendix ,,index ,,description ,,of ,,the ,,plates4 ,,plate ,i4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i4--,,map ,,showing ,,the ,,resemblance ,,in ,,form ,,between ,,barrier ,,coral-,,reefs ,,surrounding ,,mountainous ,,islands1 ,,and ,,atolls ,,or ,,lagoon ,,islands4 ,in the several original surveys1 from which the small plans on this plate have been reduced1 the coral-reefs are engraved in very different styles4 ,for the sake of uniformity1 ,i have adopted the style used in the charts of the ,chagos ,archipelago1 published by the ,east ,indian ,company1 from the survey by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell4 ,the surface of the reef1 which dries at low water1 is represented by a surface with small crosses3 the coral-islets on the reef are marked by small linear spaces1 on which a few cocoa-nut trees1 out of all proportion too large1 have been introduced for the sake of clearness4 ,the entire annular reef1 which when surrounding an open expanse of water1 forms an 8atoll10 and when surrounding one or more high islands1 forms an encircling 8barrier-reef10 has a nearly uniform structure4 ,the reefs in some of the original surveys are represented merely by a single line with crosses1 so that their breadth is not given2 ,i have had such reefs engraved of the width usually attained by coral-reefs4 ,i have not thought it worth while to introduce all those small and very numerous reefs1 which occur within the lagoons of most atolls and within the lagoon-channels of most barrier-reefs1 and which stand either isolated1 or are attached to the shores of the reef or land4 ,at ,peros ,banhos none of the lagoon-reefs rise to the surface of the water2 a few of them have been introduced1 and are marked by plain dotted circles4 ,a few of the deepest soundings are laid down within each reef2 they are in fathoms1 of six ,english feet4 ,figure #a4--,,vanikoro1 situated in the western part of the ,south ,pacific2 taken from the survey by ,captain ,d',urville in the ,astrolabe2 the soundings on the southern side of the island1 namely1 from thirty to forty fathoms1 are given from the voyage of the ,chev4 ,dillon2 the other soundings are laid down from the survey by ,d',urville2 height of the summit of the island is #c1jcb feet4 ,the principal small detached reefs within the lagoon-channel have in this instance been represented4 ,the southern shore of the island is narrowly fringed by a reef3 if the engraver had carried this reef entirely round both islands1 this figure would have served 7by leaving out in imagination the barrier-reef7 as a good specimen of an abruptly-sided island1 surrounded by a reef of the fringing class4 ,figure #b4--;,,hogoleu1 or ,,roug1 in the ,caroline ,archipelago2 taken from the atlas of the voyage of the ,astrolabe1 compiled from the surveys of ,captains ,duperrey and ,d',urville2 the depth of the immense lagoon-like space within the reef is not known4 ,figure #c4--,,raiatea1 in the ,society ,archipelago2 from the map given in the quarto edition of 8,cook's ,first ,voyage20 it is probably not accurate4 ,figure #d4--;,,bow1 or ,,heyou ,,atoll 7or lagoon-island71 in the ,low ,archipelago1 from the survey by ,captain ,beechey1 ,r4,n42 the lagoon is choked up with reefs1 but the average greatest depth of about twenty fathoms1 is given from the published account of the voyage4 ,figure #e4--;,,bolabola1 in the ,society ,archipelago1 from the survey of ,captain ,duperrey in the ,coquille3 the soundings in this and the following figures have been altered from ,french feet to ,english fathoms2 height of highest point of the island #d1jbf feet4 ,figure #f4--,,maurua1 in the ,society ,archipelago2 from the survey by ,captain ,duperrey in the ,coquille3 height of land about eight hundred feet4 ,figure #g4--,,pouynip,,te1 or ,,seniavine1 in the ,caroline ,archipelago2 from the survey by ,admiral ,lutk4 ,figure #h4--;,,gambier ,,islands1 in the southern part of the ,low ,archipelago2 from the survey by ,captain ,beechey2 height of highest island1 #a1bdf feet2 the islands are surrounded by extensive and irregular reefs2 the reef on the southern side is submerged4 ,figure #i4--,,peros ,,banhos ,,atoll 7or lagoon-island71 in the ,chagos group in the ,indian ,ocean2 from the survey by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell2 not nearly all the small submerged reefs in the lagoon are represented2 the annular reef on the southern side is submerged4 ,figure #aj4--,,keeling1 or ,,cocos ,,atoll 7or lagoon-island71 in the ,indian ,ocean2 from the survey by ,captain ,fitzroy2 the lagoon south of the dotted line is very shallow1 and is left almost bare at low water2 the part north of the line is choked up with irregular reefs4 ,the annular reef on the north-west side is broken1 and blends into a shoal sandbank1 on which the sea breaks4 ,,plate ,,ii4--,,great ,,chagos ,,bank1 ,,new ,,caledonia1 ,,menchikoff ,,atoll1 ,,etc4 ,illustration3 ,plate #b ,figure #a4--;,,great ,,chagos ,,bank1 in the ,indian ,ocean2 taken from the survey by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell2 the parts which are shaded1 with the exception of two or three islets on the western and northern sides1 do not rise to the surface1 but are submerged from four to ten fathoms2 the banks bounded by the dotted lines lie from fifteen to twenty fathoms beneath the surface1 and are formed of sand2 the central space is of mud1 and from thirty to fifty fathoms deep4 ,figure #b4--;,a vertical section1 on the same scale1 in an eastern and western line across the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 given for the sake of exhibiting more clearly its structure4 ,figure #c4--,,menchikoff ,,atoll 7or lagoon-island71 in the ,marshall ,archipelago1 ,northern ,pacific ,ocean2 from ,krusenstern's 8,atlas of the ,pacific20 originally surveyed by ,captain ,hagemeister2 the depth within the lagoons is unknown4 ,figure #d4--,,mahlos ,,mahdoo ,,atoll1 together with ,horsburgh atoll1 in the ,maldiva ,archipelago2 from the survey by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell2 the white spaces in the middle of the separate small reefs1 both on the margin and in the middle part1 are meant to represent little lagoons2 but it was found not possible to distinguish them clearly from the small islets1 which have been formed on these same small reefs2 many of the smaller reefs could not be introduced2 the nautical mark 7dot over a dash7 over the figures #bej and #bjj1 between ,mahlos ,mahdoo and ,horsburgh atoll and ,powell's island1 signifies that soundings were not obtained at these depths4 ,figure #e4--,,new ,,caledonia1 in the western part of the ,pacific2 from ,krusenstern's 8,atlas10 compiled from several surveys2 ,i have slightly altered the northern point of the reef1 in accordance with the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,astrolabe40 ,in ,krusenstern's 8,atlas10 the reef is represented by a single line with crosses2 ,i have for the sake of uniformity added an interior line4 ,figure #f4--,,maldiva ,,archipelago1 in the ,indian ,ocean2 from the survey by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell4 ,,plate ,,iii4--,,map ,,showing ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,and ,,active ,,volcanoes4 ,illustration3 ,plate #c ,shewing the ,distribution of the ,different ,kinds of ,coral ,reefs1 ,together with the ,position of the ,active ,volcanoes in the ,map4 ,the principles1 on which this map was coloured1 are explained in the beginning of ,chapter ,,vi42 and the authorities for each particular spot are detailed in the ,appendix to 8,coral ,reefs40 ,the names not printed in upper case in the ,index refer to the ,appendix4 ,,the ,,structure ,,and ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral ,,reefs4 ,,introduction4 ,the object of this volume is to describe from my own observation and the works of others1 the principal kinds of coral-reefs1 more especially those occurring in the open ocean1 and to explain the origin of their peculiar forms4 ,i do not here treat of the polypifers1 which construct these vast works1 except so far as relates to their distribution1 and to the conditions favourable to their vigorous growth4 ,without any distinct intention to classify coral-reefs1 most voyagers have spoken of them under the following heads3 8lagoon-islands10 or 8atolls10 8barrier0 or 8encircling reefs10 and 8fringing0 or 8shore-reefs40 ,the lagoon-islands have received much the most attention2 and it is not surprising1 for every one must be struck with astonishment1 when he first beholds one of these vast rings of coral-rock1 often many leagues in diameter1 here and there surmounted by a low verdant island with dazzling white shores1 bathed on the outside by the foaming breakers of the ocean1 and on the inside surrounding a calm expanse of water1 which from reflection1 is of a bright but pale green colour4 ,the naturalist will feel this astonishment more deeply after having examined the soft and almost gelatinous bodies of these apparently insignificant creatures1 and when he knows that the solid reef increases only on the outer edge1 which day and night is lashed by the breakers of an ocean never at rest4 ,well did ,franois ,pyrard de ,laval1 in the year #afje1 exclaim1 8,c'est une merueille de voir chacun de ces atollons1 enuironn d'un grand banc de pierre tout autour1 n'y ayant point d'artifice humain40 ,the accompanying sketch of ,whitsunday island1 in the ,south ,pacific1 taken from ,captain ,beechey's admirable 8,voyage10 although excellent of its kind1 gives but a faint idea of the singular aspect of one of these lagoon-islands4 ,illustration ,whitsunday ,island is of small size1 and the whole circle has been converted into land1 which is a comparatively rare circumstance4 ,as the reef of a lagoon-island generally supports many separate small islands1 the word 8island10 applied to the whole1 is often the cause of confusion2 hence ,i have invariably used in this volume the term 8atoll10 which is the name given to these circular groups of coral-islets by their inhabitants in the ,indian ,ocean1 and is synonymous with 8lagoon-island40 ,illustration ,barrier-reefs1 when encircling small islands1 have been comparatively little noticed by voyagers2 but they well deserve attention4 ,in their structure they are little less marvellous than atolls1 and they give a singular and most picturesque character to the scenery of the islands they surround4 ,in the accompanying sketch1 taken from the 8,voyage of the #8,coquille'10 the reef is seen from within1 from one of the high peaks of the island of ,bolabola4#a ,here1 as in ,whitsunday ,island1 the whole of that part of the reef which is visible is converted into land4 ,this is a circumstance of rare occurrence2 more usually a snow-white line of great breakers1 with here and there an islet crowned by cocoa-nut trees1 separates the smooth waters of the lagoon-like channel from the waves of the open sea4 ,the barrier-reefs of ,australia and of ,new ,caledonia1 owing to their enormous dimensions1 have excited much attention3 in structure and form they resemble those encircling many of the smaller islands in the ,pacific ,ocean4 #a ,i have taken the liberty of simplifying the foreground1 and leaving out a mountainous island in the far distance4 ,with respect to fringing1 or shore-reefs1 there is little in their structure which needs explanation2 and their name expresses their comparatively small extension4 ,they differ from barrier-reefs in not lying so far from the shore1 and in not having within a broad channel of deep water4 ,reefs also occur around submerged banks of sediment and of worn-down rock2 and others are scattered quite irregularly where the sea is very shallow2 these in most respects are allied to those of the fringing class1 but they are of comparatively little interest4 ,i have given a separate chapter to each of the above classes1 and have described some one reef or island1 on which ,i possessed most information1 as typical2 and have afterwards compared it with others of a like kind4 ,although this classification is useful from being obvious1 and from including most of the coral-reefs existing in the open sea1 it admits of a more fundamental division into barrier and atoll-formed reefs on the one hand1 where there is a great apparent difficulty with respect to the foundation on which they must first have grown2 and into fringing-reefs on the other1 where1 owing to the nature of the slope of the adjoining land1 there is no such difficulty4 ,the two blue tints and the red colour 7replaced by numbers in this edition47 on the map 7,plate ,,iii471 represent this main division1 as explained in the beginning of the last chapter4 ,in the ,appendix1 every existing coral-reef1 except some on the coast of ,brazil not included in the map1 is briefly described in geographical order1 as far as ,i possessed information2 and any particular spot may be found by consulting the ,index4 ,several theories have been advanced to explain the origin of atolls or lagoon-islands1 but scarcely one to account for barrier-reefs4 ,from the limited depths at which reef-building polypifers can flourish1 taken into consideration with certain other circumstances1 we are compelled to conclude1 as it will be seen1 that both in atolls and barrier-reefs1 the foundation on which the coral was primarily attached1 has subsided2 and that during this downward movement1 the reefs have grown upwards4 ,this conclusion1 it will be further seen1 explains most satisfactorily the outline and general form of atolls and barrier-reefs1 and likewise certain peculiarities in their structure4 ,the distribution1 also1 of the different kinds of coral-reefs1 and their position with relation to the areas of recent elevation1 and to the points subject to volcanic eruptions1 fully accord with this theory of their origin4#b #b ,a brief account of my views on coral formations1 now published in my ,journal of ,researches1 was read ,may #cast1 #ahcg1 before the ,geological ,society1 and an abstract has appeared in the ,proceedings4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,atolls ,,or ,,lagoon-,,islands4 ,,section ,i4--,,keeling ,,atoll4 ,corals on the outer margin4--,zone of ,nullipor4--,exterior reef4--,islets4--,coral-conglomerate4--, lagoon4--,calcareous sediment4--,scari and ,holuthuri subsisting on corals4--,changes in the condition of the reefs and islets4--,probable subsidence of the atoll4--,future state of the lagoon4 ,illustration ,a4--,level of the sea at low water3 where the letter ,a is placed1 the depth is twenty-five fathoms1 and the distance rather more than one hundred and fifty yards from the edge of the reef4 ,b4--,outer edge of that flat part of the reef1 which dries at low water3 the edge either consists of a convex mound1 as represented1 or of rugged points1 like those a little farther seaward1 beneath the water4 ,c4--,a flat of coral-rock1 covered at high water4 ,d4--,a low projecting ledge of brecciated coral-rock washed by the waves at high water4 ,e4--,a slope of loose fragments1 reached by the sea only during gales3 the upper part1 which is from six to twelve feet high1 is clothed with vegetation4 ,the surface of the islet gently slopes to the lagoon4 ,f4--,level of the lagoon at low water4 ,keeling or ,cocos atoll is situated in the ,indian ,ocean1 in #ab #e ,s41 and longitude #ij #ee ,e43 a reduced chart of it was made from the survey of ,captain ,fitzroy and the ,officers of ,h4,m4,s4 8,beagle10 is given in ,plate ,i41 ,figure #aj4 ,the greatest width of this atoll is nine miles and a half4 ,its structure is in most respects characteristic of the class to which it belongs1 with the exception of the shallowness of the lagoon4 ,the accompanying woodcut represents a vertical section1 supposed to be drawn at low water from the outer coast across one of the low islets 7one being taken of average dimensions7 to within the lagoon4 ,the section is true to the scale in a horizontal line1 but it could not be made so in a vertical one1 as the average greatest height of the land is only between six and twelve feet above high-water mark4 ,i will describe the section1 commencing with the outer margin4 ,i must first observe that the reef-building polypifers1 not being tidal animals1 require to be constantly submerged or washed by the breakers4 ,i was assured by ,mr4 ,liesk1 a very intelligent resident on these islands1 as well as by some chiefs at ,tahiti 7,otaheite71 that an exposure to the rays of the sun for a very short time invariably causes their destruction4 ,hence it is possible only under the most favourable circumstances1 afforded by an unusually low tide and smooth water1 to reach the outer margin1 where the coral is alive4 ,i succeeded only twice in gaining this part1 and found it almost entirely composed of a living ,porites1 which forms great irregularly rounded masses 7like those of an ,astra1 but larger7 from four to eight feet broad1 and little less in thickness4 ,these mounds are separated from each other by narrow crooked channels1 about six feet deep1 most of which intersect the line of reef at right angles4 ,on the furthest mound1 which ,i was able to reach by the aid of a leaping-pole1 and over which the sea broke with some violence1 although the day was quite calm and the tide low1 the polypifers in the uppermost cells were all dead1 but between three and four inches lower down on its side they were living1 and formed a projecting border round the upper and dead surface4 ,the coral being thus checked in its upward growth1 extends laterally1 and hence most of the masses1 especially those a little further inwards1 had broad flat dead summits4 ,on the other hand ,i could see1 during the recoil of the breakers1 that a few yards further seaward1 the whole convex surface of the ,porites was alive2 so that the point where we were standing was almost on the exact upward and shoreward limit of existence of those corals which form the outer margin of the reef4 ,we shall presently see that there are other organic productions1 fitted to bear a somewhat longer exposure to the air and sun4 ,next1 but much inferior in importance to the ,porites1 is the ,millepora complanata4#a ,it grows in thick vertical plates1 intersecting each other at various angles1 and forms an exceedingly strong honeycombed mass1 which generally affects a circular form1 the marginal plates alone being alive4 ,between these plates and in the protected crevices on the reef1 a multitude of branching zoophytes and other productions flourish1 but the ,porites and ,millepora alone seem able to resist the fury of the breakers on its upper and outer edge3 at the depth of a few fathoms other kinds of stony corals live4 ,mr4 ,liesk1 who was intimately acquainted with every part of this reef1 and likewise with that of ,north ,keeling atoll1 assured me that these corals invariably compose the outer margin4 ,the lagoon is inhabited by quite a distinct set of corals1 generally brittle and thinly branched2 but a ,porites1 apparently of the same species with that on the outside1 is found there1 although it does not seem to thrive1 and certainly does not attain the thousandth part in bulk of the masses opposed to the breakers4 #a ,this ,millepora 7,palmipora of ,blainville71 as well as the ,m4 alcicornis1 possesses the singular property of stinging the skin where it is delicate1 as on the face and arm4 ,the woodcut shows the form of the bottom off the reef3 the water deepens for a space between one and two hundred yards wide1 very gradually to twenty-five fathoms 7,a in section71 beyond which the sides plunge into the unfathomable ocean at an angle of #de4b ,to the depth of ten or twelve fathoms the bottom is exceedingly rugged1 and seems formed of great masses of living coral1 similar to those on the margin4 ,the arming of the lead here invariably came up quite clean1 but deeply indented1 and chains and anchors which were lowered1 in the hopes of tearing up the coral1 were broken4 ,many small fragments1 however1 of ,millepora alcicornis were brought up2 and on the arming from an eight-fathom cast1 there was a perfect impression of an ,astra1 apparently alive4 ,i examined the rolled fragments cast on the beach during gales1 in order further to ascertain what corals grew outside the reef4 ,the fragments consisted of many kinds1 of which the ,porites already mentioned and a ,madrepora1 apparently the ,m4 corymbosa1 were the most abundant4 ,as ,i searched in vain in the hollows on the reef and in the lagoon1 for a living specimen of this ,madrepore1 ,i conclude that it is confined to a zone outside1 and beneath the surface1 where it must be very abundant4 ,fragments of the ,millepora alcicornis and of an ,astra were also numerous2 the former is found1 but not in proportionate numbers1 in the hollows on the reef2 but the ,astra ,i did not see living4 ,hence we may infer1 that these are the kinds of coral which form the rugged sloping surface 7represented in the woodcut by an uneven line71 round and beneath the external margin4 ,between twelve and twenty fathoms the arming came up an equal number of times smoothed with sand1 and indented with coral3 an anchor and lead were lost at the respective depths of thirteen and sixteen fathoms4 ,out of twenty-five soundings taken at a greater depth than twenty fathoms1 every one showed that the bottom was covered with sand2 whereas1 at a less depth than twelve fathoms1 every sounding showed that it was exceedingly rugged1 and free from all extraneous particles4 ,two soundings were obtained at the depth of #cfj fathoms1 and several between two hundred and three hundred fathoms4 ,the sand brought up from these depths consisted of finely triturated fragments of stony zoophytes1 but not1 as far as ,i could distinguish1 of a particle of any lamelliform genus3 fragments of shells were rare4 #b ,the soundings from which this section is laid down were taken with great care by ,captain ,fitzroy himself4 ,he used a bell-shaped lead1 having a diameter of four inches1 and the armings each time were cut off and brought on board for me to examine4 ,the arming is a preparation of tallow1 placed in the concavity at the bottom of the lead4 ,sand1 and even small fragments of rock1 will adhere to it2 and if the bottom be of rock it brings up an exact impression of its surface4 ,at a distance of #b1bjj yards from the breakers1 ,captain ,fitzroy found no bottom with a line of #g1bjj feet in length2 hence the submarine slope of this coral formation is steeper than that of any volcanic cone4 ,off the mouth of the lagoon1 and likewise off the northern point of the atoll1 where the currents act violently1 the inclination1 owing to the accumulation of sediment1 is less4 ,as the arming of the lead from all the greater depths showed a smooth sandy bottom1 ,i at first concluded that the whole consisted of a vast conical pile of calcareous sand1 but the sudden increase of depth at some points1 and the circumstance of the line having been cut1 as if rubbed1 when between five hundred and six hundred fathoms were out1 indicate the probable existence of submarine cliffs4 ,on the margin of the reef1 close within the line where the upper surface of the ,porites and of the ,millepora is dead1 three species of ,nullipora flourish4 ,one grows in thin sheets1 like a lichen on old trees2 the second in stony knobs1 as thick as a man's finger1 radiating from a common centre2 and the third1 which is less common1 in a moss-like reticulation of thin1 but perfectly rigid branches4#c ,the three species occur either separately or mingled together2 and they form by their successive growth a layer two or three feet in thickness1 which in some cases is hard1 but where formed of the lichen-like kind1 readily yields an impression to the hammer3 the surface is of a reddish colour4 ,these ,nullipor1 although able to exist above the limit of true corals1 seem to require to be bathed during the greater part of each tide by breaking water1 for they are not found in any abundance in the protected hollows on the back part of the reef1 where they might be immersed either during the whole or an equal proportional time of each tide4 ,it is remarkable that organic productions of such extreme simplicity1 for the ,nullipor undoubtedly belong to one of the lowest classes of the vegetable kingdom1 should be limited to a zone so peculiarly circumstanced4 ,hence the layer composed by their growth merely fringes the reef for a space of about twenty yards in width1 either under the form of separate mammillated projections1 where the outer masses of coral are separate1 or1 more commonly1 where the corals are united into a solid margin1 as a continuous smooth convex mound 7,b in woodcut71 like an artificial breakwater4 ,both the mound and mammillated projections stand about three feet higher than any other part of the reef1 by which term ,i do not include the islets1 formed by the accumulation of rolled fragments4 ,we shall hereafter see that other coral reefs are protected by a similar thick growth of ,nullipor on the outer margin1 the part most exposed to the breakers1 and this must effectually aid in preserving it from being worn down4 #c ,this last species is of a beautiful bright peach-blossom colour4 ,its branches are about as thick as crow-quills2 they are slightly flattened and knobbed at the extremities4 ,the extremities only are alive and brightly coloured4 ,the two other species are of a dirty purplish-white4 ,the second species is extremely hard2 its short knob-like branches are cylindrical1 and do not grow thicker at their extremities4 ,the woodcut represents a section across one of the islets on the reef1 but if all that part which is above the level of ,c were removed1 the section would be that of a simple reef1 as it occurs where no islet has been formed4 ,it is this reef which essentially forms the atoll4 ,it is a ring1 enclosing the lagoon on all sides except at the northern end1 where there are two open spaces1 through one of which ships can enter4 ,the reef varies in width from two hundred and fifty to five hundred yards1 its surface is level1 or very slightly inclined towards the lagoon1 and at high tide the sea breaks entirely over it3 the water at low tide thrown by the breakers on the reef1 is carried by the many narrow and shoal gullies or channels on its surface1 into the lagoon3 a return stream sets out of the lagoon through the main entrance4 ,the most frequent coral in the hollows on the reef is ,pocillopora verrucosa1 which grows in short sinuous plates1 or branches1 and when alive is of a beautiful pale lake-red3 a ,madrepora1 closely allied or identical with ,m4 pocillifera1 is also common4 ,as soon as an islet is formed1 and the waves are prevented breaking entirely over the reef1 the channels and hollows in it become filled up with cemented fragments1 and its surface is converted into a hard smooth floor 7,c of woodcut71 like an artificial one of freestone4 ,this flat surface varies in width from one hundred to two hundred1 or even three hundred yards1 and is strewed with a few large fragments of coral torn up during gales3 it is uncovered only at low water4 ,i could with difficulty1 and only by the aid of a chisel1 procure chips of rock from its surface1 and therefore could not ascertain how much of it is formed by the aggregation of detritus1 and how much by the outward growth of mounds of corals1 similar to those now living on the margin4 ,nothing can be more singular than the appearance at low tide of this 8flat0 of naked stone1 especially where it is externally bounded by the smooth convex mound of ,nullipor1 appearing like a breakwater built to resist the waves1 which are constantly throwing over it sheets of foaming water4 ,the characteristic appearance of this 8flat0 is shown in the foregoing woodcut of ,whitsunday atoll4 ,the islets on the reef are first formed between two hundred and three hundred yards from its outer edge1 through the accumulation of a pile of fragments1 thrown together by some unusually strong gale4 ,their ordinary width is under a quarter of a mile1 and their length varies from a few yards to several miles4 ,those on the south-east and windward side of the atoll1 increase solely by the addition of fragments on their outer side2 hence the loose blocks of coral1 of which their surface is composed1 as well as the shells mingled with them1 almost exclusively consist of those kinds which live on the outer coast4 ,the highest part of the islets 7excepting hillocks of blown sand1 some of which are thirty feet high71 is close to the outer beach 7,e of the woodcut71 and averages from six to ten feet above ordinary high-water mark4 ,from the outer beach the surface slopes gently to the shores of the lagoon1 which no doubt has been caused by the breakers the further they have rolled over the reef1 having had less power to throw up fragments4 ,the little waves of the lagoon heap up sand and fragments of thinly-branched corals on the inner side of the islets on the leeward side of the atoll2 and these islets are broader than those to windward1 some being even eight hundred yards in width2 but the land thus added is very low4 ,the fragments beneath the surface are cemented into a solid mass1 which is exposed as a ledge 7,d of the woodcut71 projecting some yards in front of the outer shore and from two to four feet high4 ,this ledge is just reached by the waves at ordinary high-water3 it extends in front of all the islets1 and everywhere has a water-worn and scooped appearance4 ,the fragments of coral which are occasionally cast on the 8flat0 are during gales of unusual violence swept together on the beach1 where the waves each day at high-water tend to remove and gradually wear them down2 but the lower fragments having become firmly cemented together by the percolation of calcareous matter1 resist the daily tides longer1 and hence project as a ledge4 ,the cemented mass is generally of a white colour1 but in some few parts reddish from ferruginous matter2 it is very hard1 and is sonorous under the hammer2 it is obscurely divided by seams1 dipping at a small angle seaward2 it consists of fragments of the corals which grow on the outer margin1 some quite and others partially rounded1 some small and others between two and three feet across2 and of masses of previously formed conglomerate1 torn up1 rounded1 and re-cemented2 or it consists of a calcareous sandstone1 entirely composed of rounded particles1 generally almost blended together1 of shells1 corals1 the spines of echini1 and other such organic bodies2 rocks1 of this latter kind1 occur on many shores1 where there are no coral reefs4 ,the structure of the coral in the conglomerate has generally been much obscured by the infiltration of spathose calcareous matter2 and ,i collected a very interesting series1 beginning with fragments of unaltered coral1 and ending with others1 where it was impossible to discover with the naked eye any trace of organic structure4 ,in some specimens ,i was unable1 even with the aid of a lens1 and by wetting them1 to distinguish the boundaries of the altered coral and spathose limestone4 ,many even of the blocks of coral lying loose on the beach1 had their central parts altered and infiltrated4 ,the lagoon alone remains to be described2 it is much shallower than that of most atolls of considerable size4 ,the southern part is almost filled up with banks of mud and fields of coral1 both dead and alive1 but there are considerable spaces1 between three and four fathoms1 and smaller basins1 from eight to ten fathoms deep4 ,probably about half its area consists of sediment1 and half of coral-reefs4 ,the corals composing these reefs have a very different aspect from those on the outside2 they are very numerous in kind1 and most of them are thinly branched4 ,meandrina1 however1 lives in the lagoon1 and great rounded masses of this coral are numerous1 lying quite or almost loose on the bottom4 ,the other commonest kinds consist of three closely allied species of true ,madrepora in thin branches2 of ,seriatapora subulata2 two species of ,porites#d with cylindrical branches1 one of which forms circular clumps1 with the exterior branches only alive2 and lastly1 a coral something like an ,explanaria1 but with stars on both surfaces1 growing in thin1 brittle1 stony1 foliaceous expansions1 especially in the deeper basins of the lagoon4 ,the reefs on which these corals grow are very irregular in form1 are full of cavities1 and have not a solid flat surface of dead rock1 like that surrounding the lagoon2 nor can they be nearly so hard1 for the inhabitants made with crowbars a channel of considerable length through these reefs1 in which a schooner1 built on the ,s4,e4 islet1 was floated out4 ,it is a very interesting circumstance1 pointed out to us by ,mr4 ,liesk1 that this channel1 although made less than ten years before our visit1 was then1 as we saw1 almost choked up with living coral1 so that fresh excavations would be absolutely necessary to allow another vessel to pass through it4 #d ,this ,porites has somewhat the habit of ,p4 clavaria1 but the branches are not knobbed at their ends4 ,when alive it is of a yellow colour1 but after having been washed in fresh water and placed to dry1 a jet-black slimy substance exuded from the entire surface1 so that the specimen now appears as if it had been dipped in ink4 ,the sediment from the deepest parts in the lagoon1 when wet1 appeared chalky1 but when dry1 like very fine sand4 ,large soft banks of similar1 but even finer grained mud1 occur on the ,s4,e4 shore of the lagoon1 affording a thick growth of a ,fucus1 on which turtle feed3 this mud1 although discoloured by vegetable matter1 appears from its entire solution in acids to be purely calcareous4 ,i have seen in the ,museum of the ,geological ,society1 a similar but more remarkable substance1 brought by ,lieutenant ,nelson from the reefs of ,bermuda1 which1 when shown to several experienced geologists1 was mistaken by them for true chalk4 ,on the outside of the reef much sediment must be formed by the action of the surf on the rolled fragments of coral2 but in the calm waters of the lagoon1 this can take place only in a small degree4 ,there are1 however1 other and unexpected agents at work here3 large shoals of two species of ,scarus1 one inhabiting the surf outside the reef and the other the lagoon1 subsist entirely1 as ,i was assured by ,mr4 ,liesk1 the intelligent resident before referred to1 by browsing on the living polypifers4 ,i opened several of these fish1 which are very numerous and of considerable size1 and ,i found their intestines distended by small pieces of coral1 and finely ground calcareous matter4 ,this must daily pass from them as the finest sediment2 much also must be produced by the infinitely numerous vermiform and molluscous animals1 which make cavities in almost every block of coral4 ,dr4 ,j4 ,allan1 of ,forres1 who has enjoyed the best means of observation1 informs me in a letter that the ,holothuri 7a family of ,radiata7 subsist on living coral2 and the singular structure of bone within the anterior extremity of their bodies1 certainly appears well adapted for this purpose4 ,the number of the species of ,holothuria1 and of the individuals which swarm on every part of these coral-reefs1 is extraordinarily great2 and many shiploads are annually freighted1 as is well-known1 for ,china with the trepang1 which is a species of this genus4 ,the amount of coral yearly consumed1 and ground down into the finest mud1 by these several creatures1 and probably by many other kinds1 must be immense4 ,these facts are1 however1 of more importance in another point of view1 as showing us that there are living checks to the growth of coral-reefs1 and that the almost universal law of 8consumed and be consumed10 holds good even with the polypifers forming those massive bulwarks1 which are able to withstand the force of the open ocean4 ,considering that ,keeling atoll1 like other coral formations1 has been entirely formed by the growth of organic beings1 and the accumulation of their detritus1 one is naturally led to inquire how long it has continued1 and how long it is likely to continue1 in its present state4 ,mr4 ,liesk informed me that he had seen an old chart in which the present long island on the ,s4,e4 side was divided by several channels into as many islets2 and he assures me that the channels can still be distinguished by the smaller size of the trees on them4 ,on several islets1 also1 ,i observed that only young cocoa-nut trees were growing on the extremities2 and that older and taller trees rose in regular succession behind them2 which shows that these islets have very lately increased in length4 ,in the upper and south-eastern part of the lagoon1 ,i was much surprised by finding an irregular field of at least a mile square of branching corals1 still upright1 but entirely dead4 ,they consisted of the species already mentioned2 they were of a brown colour1 and so rotten1 that in trying to stand on them ,i sank halfway up the leg1 as if through decayed brushwood4 ,the tops of the branches were barely covered by water at the time of lowest tide4 ,several facts having led me to disbelieve in any elevation of the whole atoll1 ,i was at first unable to imagine what cause could have killed so large a field of coral4 ,upon reflection1 however1 it appeared to me that the closing up of the above-mentioned channels would be a sufficient cause2 for before this1 a strong breeze by forcing water through them into the head of the lagoon1 would tend to raise its level4 ,but now this cannot happen1 and the inhabitants observe that the tide rises to a less height1 during a high ,s4,e4 wind1 at the head than at the mouth of the lagoon4 ,the corals1 which1 under the former condition of things1 had attained the utmost possible limit of upward growth1 would thus occasionally be exposed for a short time to the sun1 and be killed4 ,besides the increase of dry land1 indicated by the foregoing facts1 the exterior solid reef appears to have grown outwards4 ,on the western side of the atoll1 the 8flat0 lying between the margin of the reef and the beach1 is very wide2 and in front of the regular beach with its conglomerate basis1 there is1 in most parts1 a bed of sand and loose fragments with trees growing out of it1 which apparently is not reached even by the spray at high water4 ,it is evident some change has taken place since the waves formed the inner beach2 that they formerly beat against it with violence was evident1 from a remarkably thick and water-worn point of conglomerate at one spot1 now protected by vegetation and a bank of sand2 that they beat against it in the same peculiar manner in which the swell from windward now obliquely curls round the margin of the reef1 was evident from the conglomerate having been worn into a point projecting from the beach in a similarly oblique manner4 ,this retreat in the line of action of the breakers might result1 either from the surface of the reef in front of the islets having been submerged at one time1 and afterward having grown upwards1 or from the mounds of coral on the margin having continued to grow outwards4 ,that an outward growth of this part is in process1 can hardly be doubted from the fact already mentioned of the mounds of ,porites with their summits apparently lately killed1 and their sides only three or four inches lower down thickened by a fresh layer of living coral4 ,but there is a difficulty on this supposition which ,i must not pass over4 ,if the whole1 or a large part of the 8flat10 had been formed by the outward growth of the margin1 each successive margin would naturally have been coated by the ,nullipor1 and so much of the surface would have been of equal height with the existing zone of living ,nullipor3 this is not the case1 as may be seen in the woodcut4 ,it is1 however1 evident from the abraded state of the 8flat10 with its original inequalities filled up1 that its surface has been much modified2 and it is possible that the hinder portions of the zone of ,nullipor1 perishing as the reef grows outwards1 might be worn down by the surf4 ,if this has not taken place1 the reef can in no part have increased outwards in breadth since its formation1 or at least since the ,nullipor formed the convex mound on its margin2 for the zone thus formed1 and which stands between two and three feet above the other parts of the reef1 is nowhere much above twenty yards in width4 ,thus far we have considered facts1 which indicate1 with more or less probability1 the increase of the atoll in its different parts3 there are others having an opposite tendency4 ,on the south-east side1 ,lieutenant ,sulivan1 to whose kindness ,i am indebted for many interesting observations1 found the conglomerate projecting on the reef nearly fifty yards in front of the beach3 we may infer from what we see in all other parts of the atoll1 that the conglomerate was not originally so much exposed1 but formed the base of an islet1 the front and upper part of which has since been swept away4 ,the degree to which the conglomerate1 round nearly the whole atoll1 has been scooped1 broken up1 and the fragments cast on the beach1 is certainly very surprising1 even on the view that it is the office of occasional gales to pile up fragments1 and of the daily tides to wear them away4 ,on the western side1 also1 of the atoll1 where ,i have described a bed of sand and fragments with trees growing out of it1 in front of an old beach1 it struck both ,lieutenant ,sulivan and myself1 from the manner in which the trees were being washed down1 that the surf had lately recommenced an attack on this line of coast4 ,appearances indicating a slight encroachment of the water on the land1 are plainer within the lagoon3 ,i noticed in several places1 both on its windward and leeward shores1 old cocoa-nut trees falling with their roots undermined1 and the rotten stumps of others on the beach1 where the inhabitants assured us the cocoa-nut could not now grow4 ,captain ,fitzroy pointed out to me1 near the settlement1 the foundation posts of a shed1 now washed by every tide1 but which the inhabitants stated1 had seven years before stood above high watermark4 ,in the calm waters of the lagoon1 directly connected with a great1 and therefore stable ocean1 it seems very improbable that a change in the currents1 sufficiently great to cause the water to eat into the land on all sides1 should have taken place within a limited period4 ,from these considerations ,i inferred1 that probably the atoll had lately subsided to a small amount2 and this inference was strengthened by the circumstance1 that in #ahcd1 two years before our visit1 the island had been shaken by a severe earthquake1 and by two slighter ones during the ten previous years4 ,if1 during these subterranean disturbances1 the atoll did subside1 the downward movement must have been very small1 as we must conclude from the fields of dead coral still lipping the surface of the lagoon1 and from the breakers on the western shore not having yet regained the line of their former action4 ,the subsidence must1 also1 have been preceded by a long period of rest1 during which the islets extended to their present size1 and the living margin of the reef grew either upwards1 or as ,i believe outwards1 to its present distance from the beach4 ,whether this view be correct or not1 the above facts are worthy of attention1 as showing how severe a struggle is in progress on these low coral formations between the two nicely balanced powers of land and water4 ,with respect to the future state of ,keeling atoll1 if left undisturbed1 we can see that the islets may still extend in length2 but as they cannot resist the surf until broken by rolling over a wide space1 their increase in breadth must depend on the increasing breadth of the reef2 and this must be limited by the steepness of the submarine flanks1 which can be added to only by sediment derived from the wear and tear of the coral4 ,from the rapid growth of the coral in the channel cut for the schooner1 and from the several agents at work in producing fine sediment1 it might be thought that the lagoon would necessarily become quickly filled up4 ,some of this sediment1 however1 is transported into the open sea1 as appears from the soundings off the mouth of the lagoon1 instead of being deposited within it4 ,the deposition1 moreover1 of sediment1 checks the growth of coral-reefs1 so that these two agencies cannot act together with full effect in filling it up4 ,we know so little of the habits of the many different species of corals1 which form the lagoon-reefs1 that we have no more reasons for supposing that their whole surface would grow up as quickly as the coral did in the schooner-channel1 than for supposing that the whole surface of a peat-moss would increase as quickly as parts are known to do in holes1 where the peat has been cut away4 ,these agencies1 nevertheless1 tend to fill up the lagoon2 but in proportion as it becomes shallower1 so must the polypifers be subject to many injurious agencies1 such as impure water and loss of food4 ,for instance1 ,mr4 ,liesk informed me1 that some years before our visit unusually heavy rain killed nearly all the fish in the lagoon1 and probably the same cause would likewise injure the corals4 ,the reefs also1 it must be remembered1 cannot possibly rise above the level of the lowest spring-tide1 so that the final conversion of the lagoon into land must be due to the accumulation of sediment2 and in the midst of the clear water of the ocean1 and with no surrounding high land1 this process must be exceedingly slow4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,general ,,description ,,of ,,atolls4 ,general form and size of atolls1 their reefs and islets4--,external slope4-- ,zone of ,nullipor4--,conglomerate4--,depth of lagoons4--,sediment4--,reefs submerged wholly or in part4--,breaches in the reef4--,ledge-formed shores round certain lagoons4--,conversion of lagoons into land4 ,i will here give a sketch of the general form and structure of the many atolls and atoll-formed reefs which occur in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 comparing them with ,keeling atoll4 ,the ,maldiva atolls and the ,great ,chagos ,bank differ in so many respects1 that ,i shall devote to them1 besides occasional references1 a third section of this chapter4 ,keeling atoll may be considered as of moderate dimensions and of regular form4 ,of the thirty-two islands surveyed by ,captain ,beechey in the ,low ,archipelago1 the longest was found to be thirty miles1 and the shortest less than a mile2 but ,vliegen atoll1 situated in another part of the same group1 appears to be sixty miles long and twenty broad4 ,most of the atolls in this group are of an elongated form2 thus ,bow ,island is thirty miles in length1 and on an average only six in width 7,see ,figure #d1 ,plate ,i471 and ,clermont ,tonnere has nearly the same proportions4 ,in the ,marshall ,archipelago 7the ,ralick and ,radack group of ,kotzebue7 several of the atolls are more than thirty miles in length1 and ,rimsky ,korsacoff is fifty-four long1 and twenty wide1 at the broadest part of its irregular outline4 ,most of the atolls in the ,maldiva ,archipelago are of great size1 one of them 7which1 however1 bears a double name7 measured in a medial and slightly curved line1 is no less than eighty-eight geographical miles long1 its greatest width being under twenty1 and its least only nine and a half miles4 ,some atolls have spurs projecting from them2 and in the ,marshall group there are atolls united together by linear reefs1 for instance ,menchikoff ,island 7,see ,figure #c1 ,plate ,,ii471 which is sixty miles in length1 and consists of three loops tied together4 ,in far the greater number of cases an atoll consists of a simple elongated ring1 with its outline moderately regular4 ,the average width of the annular wreath may be taken as about a quarter of a mile4 ,captain ,beechey#e says that in the atolls of the ,low ,archipelago it exceeded in no instance half a mile4 ,the description given of the structure and proportional dimensions of the reef and islets of ,keeling atoll1 appears to apply perfectly to nearly all the atolls in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans4 ,the islets are first formed some way back either on the projecting points of the reef1 especially if its form be angular1 or on the sides of the main entrances into the lagoon--that is in both cases1 on points where the breakers can act during gales of wind in somewhat different directions1 so that the matter thrown up from one side may accumulate against that before thrown up from another4 ,in ,lutk's chart of the ,caroline atolls1 we see many instances of the former case2 and the occurrence of islets1 as if placed for beacons1 on the points where there is a gateway or breach through the reef1 has been noticed by several authors4 ,there are some atoll-formed reefs1 rising to the surface of the sea and partly dry at low water1 on which from some cause islets have never been formed2 and there are others on which they have been formed1 but have subsequently been worn away4 ,in atolls of small dimensions the islets frequently become united into a single horse-shoe or ring-formed strip2 but ,diego ,garcia1 although an atoll of considerable size1 being thirteen miles and a half in length1 has its lagoon entirely surrounded1 except at the northern end1 by a belt of land1 on an average a third of a mile in width4 ,to show how small the total area of the annular reef and the land is in islands of this class1 ,i may quote a remark from the voyage of ,lutk1 namely1 that if the forty-three rings1 or atolls1 in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 were put one within another1 and over a steeple in the centre of ,st4 ,petersburg1 the whole world would not cover that city and its suburbs4 #e ,beechey's 8,voyage to the ,pacific and ,beering's ,straits10 chapter viii4 ,the form of the bottom off ,keeling atoll1 which gradually slopes to about twenty fathoms at the distance of between one and two hundred yards from the edge of the reef1 and then plunges at an angle of #de into unfathomable depths1 is exactly the same#f with that of the sections of the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago given by ,captain ,beechey4 ,the nature1 however1 of the bottom seems to differ1 for this officer#g informs me that all the soundings1 even the deepest1 were on coral1 but he does not know whether dead or alive4 ,the slope round ,christmas atoll 7,lat4 #a #d ,n41 #aeg #de ,w471 described by ,cook1#h is considerably less1 at about half a mile from the edge of the reef1 the average depth was about fourteen fathoms on a fine sandy bottom1 and at a mile1 only between twenty and forty fathoms4 ,it has no doubt been owing to this gentle slope1 that the strip of land surrounding its lagoon1 has increased in one part to the extraordinary width of three miles2 it is formed of successive ridges of broken shells and corals1 like those on the beach4 ,i know of no other instance of such width in the reef of an atoll2 but ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett informs me that the inclination of the bottom round ,caroline atoll in the ,pacific1 is like that off ,christmas ,island1 very gentle4 ,off the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls1 the inclination is much more abrupt2 thus at ,heawandoo ,pholo1 ,lieutenant ,powell#i found fifty and sixty fathoms close to the edge of the reef1 and at #cjj yards distance there was no bottom with a #cjj-yard line4 ,captain ,moresby informs me1 that at #ajj fathoms from the mouth of the lagoon of ,diego ,garcia1 he found no bottom with #aej fathoms2 this is the more remarkable1 as the slope is generally less abrupt in front of channels through a reef1 owing to the accumulation of sediment4 ,at ,egmont ,island1 also1 at #aej fathoms from the reef1 soundings were struck with #aej fathoms4 ,lastly1 at ,cardoo atoll1 only sixty yards from the reef1 no bottom was obtained1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 with a line of #bjj fathoms6 ,the currents run with great force round these atolls1 and where they are strongest1 the inclination appears to be most abrupt4 ,i am informed by the same authority1 that wherever soundings were obtained off these islands1 the bottom was invariably sandy3 nor was there any reason to suspect the existence of submarine cliffs1 as there was at ,keeling ,island4#aj ,here then occurs a difficulty2 can sand accumulate on a slope1 which1 in some cases1 appears to exceed fifty-five degrees8 ,it must be observed1 that ,i speak of slopes where soundings were obtained1 and not of such cases1 as that of ,cardoo1 where the nature of the bottom is unknown1 and where its inclination must be nearly vertical4 ,m4 lie de ,beaumont#aa has argued1 and there is no higher authority on this subject1 from the inclination at which snow slides down in avalanches1 that a bed of sand or mud cannot be formed at a greater angle than thirty degrees4 ,considering the number of soundings on sand1 obtained round the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls1 which appears to indicate a greater angle1 and the extreme abruptness of the sand-banks in the ,west ,indies1 as will be mentioned in the ,appendix1 ,i must conclude that the adhesive property of wet sand counteracts its gravity1 in a much greater ratio than has been allowed for by ,m4 lie de ,beaumont4 ,from the facility with which calcareous sand becomes agglutinated1 it is not necessary to suppose that the bed of loose sand is thick4 #f ,the form of the bottom round the ,marshall atolls in the ,northern ,pacific is probably similar3 ,kotzebue 78,first ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #af47 says3 8,we had at a small distance from the reef1 forty fathoms depth1 which increased a little further so much that we could find no bottom407 #g ,i must be permitted to express my obligation to ,captain ,beechey1 for the very kind manner in which he has given me information on several points1 and to own the great assistance ,i have derived from his excellent published work4 #h ,cook's 8,third ,voyage10 volume ii41 chapter #aj4 #i ,this fact is taken from a ,,ms4 account of these groups lent me by ,captain ,moresby4 ,see also ,captain ,moresby's paper on the ,maldiva atolls in the 8,geographical ,journal01 volume v41 page #dja4 #aj ,off some of the islands in the ,low ,archipelago the bottom appears to descend by ledges4 ,off ,elizabeth ,island1 which1 however1 consists of raised coral1 ,captain ,beechey 7p4 #de1 quarto edition7 describes three ledges3 the first had an easy slope from the beach to a distance of about fifty yards3 the second extended two hundred yards with twenty-five fathoms on it1 and then ended abruptly1 like the first2 and immediately beyond this there was no bottom with two hundred fathoms4 #aa 8,mmoires pour servir une description ,golog4 de ,france10 tome iv41 page #baf4 ,captain ,beechey has observed1 that the submarine slope is much less at the extremities of the more elongated atolls in the ,low ,archipelago1 than at their sides2 in speaking of ,ducie's ,island he says#ab the buttress1 as it may be called1 which 8has the most powerful enemy 7the ,s4,w4 swell7 to oppose1 is carried out much further1 and with less abruptness than the other40 ,in some cases1 the less inclination of a certain part of the external slope1 for instance of the northern extremities of the two ,keeling atolls1 is caused by a prevailing current which there accumulates a bed of sand4 ,where the water is perfectly tranquil1 as within a lagoon1 the reefs generally grow up perpendicularly1 and sometimes even overhang their bases2 on the other hand1 on the leeward side of ,mauritius1 where the water is generally tranquil1 although not invariably so1 the reef is very gently inclined4 ,hence it appears that the exterior angle varies much2 nevertheless in the close similarity in form between the sections of ,keeling atoll and of the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago1 in the general steepness of the reefs of the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls1 and in the perpendicularity of those rising out of water always tranquil1 we may discern the effects of uniform laws2 but from the complex action of the surf and currents1 on the growing powers of the coral and on the deposition of sediment1 we can by no means follow out all the results4 #ab ,beechey's 8,voyage10 #dto edition1 page #dd4 ,where islets have been formed on the reef1 that part which ,i have sometimes called the 8flat0 and which is partly dry at low water1 appears similar in every atoll4 ,in the ,marshall group in the ,north ,pacific1 it may be inferred from ,chamisso's description1 that the reef1 where islets have not been formed on it1 slopes gently from the external margin to the shores of the lagoon2 ,flinders states that the ,australian barrier has a similar inclination inwards1 and ,i have no doubt it is of general occurrence1 although1 according to ,ehrenberg1 the reefs of the ,red ,sea offer an exception4 ,chamisso observes that 8the red colour of the reef 7at the ,marshall atolls7 under the breakers is caused by a ,nullipora1 which covers the stone wherever the waves beat2 and1 under favourable circumstances1 assumes a stalactical form10--a description perfectly applicable to the margin of ,keeling atoll4#ac ,although ,chamisso does not state that the masses of ,nullipor form points or a mound1 higher than the flat1 yet ,i believe that this is the case2 for ,kotzebue1#ad in another part1 speaks of the rocks on the edge of the reef 8as visible for about two feet at low water10 and these rocks we may feel quite certain are not formed of true coral4#ae ,whether a smooth convex mound of ,nullipor1 like that which appears as if artificially constructed to protect the margin of ,keeling ,island1 is of frequent occurrence round atolls1 ,i know not2 but we shall presently meet with it1 under precisely the same form1 on the outer edge of the 8barrier-reefs0 which encircle the ,society ,islands4 #ac ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #adb4 ,near ,porto ,praya1 in the ,cape de ,verde ,islands1 some basaltic rocks1 lashed by no inconsiderable surf1 were completely enveloped with a layer of ,nullipor4 ,the entire surface over many square inches1 was coloured of a peach-blossomed red2 the layer1 however1 was of no greater thickness than paper4 ,another kind1 in the form of projecting knobs1 grew in the same situation4 ,these ,nullipor are closely related to those described on the coral-reefs1 but ,i believe are of different species4 #ad ,kotzebue1 8,first ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #af4 ,lieutenant ,nelson1 in his excellent memoir in the ,geological ,transactions 7volume ii41 page #aje71 alludes to the rocky points mentioned by ,kotzebue1 and infers that they consist of ,serpul1 which compose incrusting masses on the reefs of ,bermudas1 as they likewise do on a sandstone bar off the coast of ,brazil 7which ,i have described in 8,london ,phil4 ,journal10 ,october #ahda74 ,these masses of ,serpul hold the same position1 relatively to the action of the sea1 with the ,nullipor on the coral-reefs in the ,indian and ,pacific ,oceans4 #ae ,captain ,moresby1 in his valuable paper 8on the ,northern atolls of ,maldivas0 78,geographical ,journal01 volume v471 says that the edges of the reefs there stand above water at low spring-tides4 ,there appears to be scarcely a feature in the structure of ,keeling reef1 which is not of common1 if not of universal occurrence1 in other atolls4 ,thus ,chamisso describes#af a layer of coarse conglomerate1 outside the islets round the ,marshall atolls which 8appears on its upper surface uneven and eaten away40 ,from drawings1 with appended remarks1 of ,diego ,garcia in the ,chagos group and of several of the ,maldiva atolls1 shown me by ,captain ,moresby1#ag it is evident that their outer coasts are subject to the same round of decay and renovation as those of ,keeling atoll4 ,from the description of the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago1 given in ,captain ,beechey's 8,voyage10 it is not apparent that any conglomerate coral-rock was there observed4 #af ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #add4 #ag ,see also ,moresby on the ,northern atolls of the ,maldivas1 8,geographical ,journal01 volume v41 page #djj4 ,the lagoon in ,keeling atoll is shallow2 in the atolls of the ,low ,archipelago the depth varies from #bj to #ch fathoms1 and in the ,marshall ,group1 according to ,chamisso1 from #cj to #ce2 in the ,caroline atolls it is only a little less4 ,within the ,maldiva atolls there are large spaces with #de fathoms1 and some soundings are laid down of #di fathoms4 ,the greater part of the bottom in most lagoons1 is formed of sediment2 large spaces have exactly the same depth1 or the depth varies so insensibly1 that it is evident that no other means1 excepting aqueous deposition1 could have leveled the surface so equally4 ,in the ,maldiva atolls this is very conspicuous1 and likewise in some of the ,caroline and ,marshall ,islands4 ,in the former large spaces consist of sand and soft clay2 and ,kotzebue speaks of clay having been found within one of the ,marshall atolls4 ,no doubt this clay is calcareous mud1 similar to that at ,keeling ,island1 and to that at ,bermuda already referred to1 as undistinguishable from disintegrated chalk1 and which ,lieutenant ,nelson says is called there pipe-clay4#ah #ah ,i may here observe that on the coast of ,brazil1 where there is much coral1 the soundings near the land are described by ,admiral ,roussin1 in the ,pilote du ,brsil1 as siliceous sand1 mingled with much finely comminuted particles of shells and coral4 ,further in the offing1 for a space of #a1cjj miles along the coast1 from the ,abrolhos ,islands to ,maranham1 the bottom in many places is composed of 8tuf blanc1 ml ou form de madrpores broys40 ,this white substance1 probably1 is analogous to that which occurs within the above-mentioned lagoons2 it is sometimes1 according to ,roussin1 firm1 and he compares it to mortar4 ,where the waves act with unequal force on the two sides of an atoll1 the islets appear to be first formed1 and are generally of greater continuity on the more exposed shore4 ,the islets1 also1 which are placed to leeward1 are in most parts of the ,pacific liable to be occasionally swept entirely away by gales1 equalling hurricanes in violence1 which blow in an opposite direction to the ordinary trade-wind4 ,the absence of the islets on the leeward side of atolls1 or when present their lesser dimensions compared with those to windward1 is a comparatively unimportant fact2 but in several instances the reef itself on the leeward side1 retaining its usual defined outline1 does not rise to the surface by several fathoms4 ,this is the case with the southern side of ,peros ,banhos 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #i7 in the ,chagos group1 with ,mourileu atoll#ai in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 and with the barrier-reef 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #h7 of the ,gambier ,islands4 ,i allude to the latter reef1 although belonging to another class1 because ,captain ,beechey was first led by it to observe the peculiarity in the question4 ,at ,peros ,banhos the submerged part is nine miles in length1 and lies at an average depth of about five fathoms2 its surface is nearly level1 and consists of hard stone1 with a thin covering of loose sand4 ,there is scarcely any living coral on it1 even on the outer margin1 as ,i have been particularly assured by ,captain ,moresby2 it is1 in fact1 a wall of dead coral-rock1 having the same width and transverse section with the reef in its ordinary state1 of which it is a continuous portion4 ,the living and perfect parts terminate abruptly1 and abut on the submerged portions1 in the same manner as on the sides of an ordinary passage through the reef4 ,the reef to leeward in other cases is nearly or quite obliterated1 and one side of the lagoon is left open2 for instance1 at ,oulleay 7,caroline ,archipelago71 where a crescent-formed reef is fronted by an irregular bank1 on which the other half of the annular reef probably once stood4 ,at ,namonouto1 in the same ,archipelago1 both these modifications of the reef concur2 it consists of a great flat bank1 with from twenty to twenty-five fathoms water on it2 for a length of more than forty miles on its southern side it is open and without any reef1 whilst on the other sides it is bounded by a reef1 in parts rising to the surface and perfectly characterised1 in parts lying some fathoms submerged4 ,in the ,chagos group there are annular reefs1 entirely submerged1 which have the same structure as the submerged and defined portions just described4 ,the ,speaker's ,bank offers an excellent example of this structure2 its central expanse1 which is about twenty-two fathoms deep1 is twenty-four miles across2 the external rim is of the usual width of annular reefs1 and is well-defined2 it lies between six and eight fathoms beneath the surface1 and at the same depth there are scattered knolls in the lagoon4 ,captain ,moresby believes the rim consists of dead rock1 thinly covered with sand1 and he is certain this is the case with the external rim of the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 which is also essentially a submerged atoll4 ,in both these cases1 as in the submerged portion of the reef at ,peros ,banhos1 ,captain ,moresby feels sure that the quantity of living coral1 even on the outer edge overhanging the deep-sea water1 is quite insignificant4 ,lastly1 in several parts of the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans there are banks1 lying at greater depths than in the cases just mentioned1 of the same form and size with the neighbouring atolls1 but with their atoll-like structure wholly obliterated4 ,it appears from the survey of ,freycinet1 that there are banks of this kind in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 and1 as is reported1 in the ,low ,archipelago4 ,when we discuss the origin of the different classes of coral formations1 we shall see that the submerged state of the whole of some atoll-formed reefs1 and of portions of others1 generally but not invariably on the leeward side1 and the existence of more deeply submerged banks now possessing little or no signs of their original atoll-like structure1 are probably the effects of a uniform cause1--namely1 the death of the coral1 during the subsidence of the area1 in which the atolls or banks are situated4 #ai ,frederick ,lutk's 8,voyage autour du ,monde10 volume ii41 page #bia4 ,see also his account of ,namonouto1 below1 and the chart of ,oulleay in the ,atlas4 ,there is seldom1 with the exception of the ,maldiva atolls1 more than two or three channels1 and generally only one leading into the lagoon1 of sufficient depth for a ship to enter4 in small atolls1 there is usually not even one4 ,where there is deep water1 for instance above twenty fathoms1 in the middle of the lagoon1 the channels through the reef are seldom as deep as the centre1--it may be said that the rim only of the saucer-shaped hollow forming the lagoon is notched4 ,mr4 ,lyell#bj has observed that the growth of the coral would tend to obstruct all the channels through a reef1 except those kept open by discharging the water1 which during high tide and the greater part of each ebb is thrown over its circumference4 ,several facts indicate that a considerable quantity of sediment is likewise discharged through these channels2 and ,captain ,moresby informs me that he has observed1 during the change of the monsoon1 the sea discoloured to a distance off the entrances into the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls4 ,this1 probably1 would check the growth of the coral in them1 far more effectually than a mere current of water4 ,in the many small atolls without any channel1 these causes have not prevented the entire ring attaining the surface4 ,the channels1 like the submerged and effaced parts of the reef1 very generally though not invariably occur on the leeward side of the atoll1 or on that side1 according to ,beechey1#ba which1 from running in the same direction with the prevalent wind1 is not fully exposed to it4 ,passages between the islets on the reef1 through which boats can pass at high water1 must not be confounded with ship-channels1 by which the annular reef itself is breached4 ,the passages between the islets occur1 of course1 on the windward as well as on the leeward side2 but they are more frequent and broader to leeward1 owing to the lesser dimensions of the islets on that side4 #bj 8,principles of ,geology10 volume iii41 page #bhi4 #ba ,beechey's 8,voyage10 #dto edition1 volume i41 page #ahi4 ,at ,keeling atoll the shores of the lagoon shelve gradually1 where the bottom is of sediment1 and irregularly or abruptly where there are coral-reefs2 but this is by no means the universal structure in other atolls4 ,chamisso1#bb speaking in general terms of the lagoons in the ,marshall atolls1 says the lead generally sinks 8from a depth of two or three fathoms to twenty or twenty-four1 and you may pursue a line in which on one side of the boat you may see the bottom1 and on the other the azure-blue deep water40 ,the shores of the lagoon-like channel within the barrier-reef at ,vanikoro have a similar structure4 ,captain ,beechey has described a modification of this structure 7and he believes it is not uncommon7 in two atolls in the ,low ,archipelago1 in which the shores of the lagoon descend by a few1 broad1 slightly inclined ledges or steps3 thus at ,matilda atoll1#bc the great exterior reef1 the surface of which is gently inclined towards and beneath the surface of the lagoon1 ends abruptly in a little cliff three fathoms deep2 at its foot1 a ledge forty yards wide extends1 shelving gently inwards like the surface-reef1 and terminated by a second little cliff five fathoms deep2 beyond this1 the bottom of the lagoon slopes to twenty fathoms1 which is the average depth of its centre4 ,these ledges seem to be formed of coral-rock2 and ,captain ,beechey says that the lead often descended several fathoms through holes in them4 ,in some atolls1 all the coral reefs or knolls in the lagoon come to the surface at low water2 in other cases of rarer occurrence1 all lie at nearly the same depth beneath it1 but most frequently they are quite irregular1--some with perpendicular1 some with sloping sides1--some rising to the surface1 and others lying at all intermediate depths from the bottom upwards4 ,i cannot1 therefore1 suppose that the union of such reefs could produce even one uniformly sloping ledge1 and much less two or three1 one beneath the other1 and each terminated by an abrupt wall4 ,at ,matilda ,island1 which offers the best example of the step-like structure1 ,captain ,beechey observes that the coral-knolls within the lagoon are quite irregular in their height4 ,we shall hereafter see that the theory which accounts for the ordinary form of atolls1 apparently includes this occasional peculiarity in their structure4 #bb ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #adb4 #bc ,beechey's 8,voyage10 #dto edition1 volume i1 page #afj4 ,at ,whitsunday ,island the bottom of the lagoon slopes gradually towards the centre1 and then deepens suddenly1 the edge of the bank being nearly perpendicular4 ,this bank is formed of coral and dead shells4 ,in the midst of a group of atolls1 there sometimes occur small1 flat1 very low islands of coral formation1 which probably once included a lagoon1 since filled up with sediment and coral-reefs4 ,captain ,beechey entertains no doubt that this has been the case with the two small islands1 which alone of thirty-one surveyed by him in the ,low ,archipelago1 did not contain lagoons4 ,romanzoff ,island 7in lat4 #ae ,s47 is described by ,chamisso#bd as formed by a dam of madreporitic rock inclosing a flat space1 thinly covered with trees1 into which the sea on the leeward side occasionally breaks4 ,north ,keeling atoll appears to be in a rather less forward stage of conversion into land2 it consists of a horse-shoe shaped strip of land surrounding a muddy flat1 one mile in its longest axis1 which is covered by the sea only at high water4 ,when describing ,south ,keeling atoll1 ,i endeavoured to show how slow the final process of filling up a lagoon must be2 nevertheless1 as all causes do tend to produce this effect1 it is very remarkable that not one instance1 as ,i believe1 is known of a moderately sized lagoon being filled up even to the low water-line at spring-tides1 much less of such a one being converted into land4 ,it is1 likewise1 in some degree remarkable1 how few atolls1 except small ones1 are surrounded by a single linear strip of land1 formed by the union of separate islets4 ,we cannot suppose that the many atolls in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans all have had a late origin1 and yet should they remain at their present level1 subjected only to the action of the sea and to the growing powers of the coral1 during as many centuries as must have elapsed since any of the earlier tertiary epochs1 it cannot1 ,i think1 be doubted that their lagoons and the islets on their reef1 would present a totally different appearance from what they now do4 ,this consideration leads to the suspicion that some renovating agency 7namely subsidence7 comes into play at intervals1 and perpetuates their original structure4 #bd ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #bba4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,atolls ,,of ,,the ,,maldiva ,,archipelago--,,great ,,chagos ,,bank4 ,maldiva ,archipelago4--,ring-formed reefs1 marginal and central4--,great depths in the lagoons of the southern atolls4--,reefs in the lagoons all rising to the surface4--,position of islets and breaches in the reefs1 with respect to the prevalent winds and action of the waves4--,destruction of islets4--,connection in the position and submarine foundation of distinct atolls4--,the apparent disseverment of large atolls4--,the ,great ,chagos ,bank4--,its submerged condition and extraordinary structure4 ,although occasional references have been made to the ,maldiva atolls1 and to the banks in the ,chagos group1 some points of their structure deserve further consideration4 ,my description is derived from an examination of the admirable charts lately published from the survey of ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell1 and more especially from information which ,captain ,moresby has communicated to me in the kindest manner4 ,the ,maldiva ,archipelago is #dgj miles in length1 with an average breadth of about #ej miles4 ,the form and dimensions of the atolls1 and their singular position in a double line1 may be seen1 but not well1 in the greatly reduced chart 7,figure #f7 in ,plate ,,ii4 ,the dimensions of the longest atoll in the group 7called by the double name of ,milla-dou-,madou and ,tilla-dou-,matte7 have already been given2 it is #hh miles in a medial and slightly curved line1 and is less than #bj miles in its broadest part4 ,suadiva1 also1 is a noble atoll1 being #dd miles across in one direction1 and #cd in another1 and the great included expanse of water has a depth of between #bej and #cjj feet4 ,the smaller atolls in this group differ in no respect from ordinary ones2 but the larger ones are remarkable from being breached by numerous deep-water channels leading into the lagoon2 for instance1 there are #db channels1 through which a ship could enter the lagoon of ,suadiva4 ,in the three southern large atolls1 the separate portions of reef between these channels have the ordinary structure1 and are linear2 but in the other atolls1 especially the more northern ones1 these portions are ring- formed1 like miniature atolls4 ,other ring-formed reefs rise out of the lagoons1 in the place of those irregular ones which ordinarily occur there4 ,in the reduction of the chart of ,mahlos ,mahdoo 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #d71 it was not found easy to define the islets and the little lagoons within each reef1 so that the ring-formed structure is very imperfectly shown2 in the large published charts of ,tilla-dou-,matte1 the appearance of these rings1 from standing further apart from each other1 is very remarkable4 ,the rings on the margin are generally elongated2 many of them are three1 and some even five miles1 in diameter2 those within the lagoon are usually smaller1 few being more than two miles across1 and the greater number rather less than one4 ,the depth of the little lagoon within these small annular reefs is generally from five to seven fathoms1 but occasionally more2 and in ,ari atoll many of the central ones are twelve1 and some even more than twelve fathoms deep4 ,these rings rise abruptly from the platform or bank1 on which they are placed2 their outer margin is invariably bordered by living coral#be within which there is a flat surface of coral rock2 of this flat1 sand and fragments have in many cases accumulated and been converted into islets1 clothed with vegetation4 ,i can1 in fact1 point out no essential difference between these little ring-formed reefs 7which1 however1 are larger1 and contain deeper lagoons than many true atolls that stand in the open sea71 and the most perfectly characterised atolls1 excepting that the ring-formed reefs are based on a shallow foundation1 instead of on the floor of the open sea1 and that instead of being scattered irregularly1 they are grouped closely together on one large platform1 with the marginal rings arranged in a rudely formed circle4 #be ,captain ,moresby informs me that ,millepora complanata is one of the commonest kinds on the outer margin1 as it is at ,keeling atoll4 ,the perfect series which can be traced from portions of simple linear reef1 to others including long linear lagoons1 and from these again to oval or almost circular rings1 renders it probable that the latter are merely modifications of the linear or normal state4 ,it is conformable with this view1 that the ring-formed reefs on the margin1 even where most perfect and standing furthest apart1 generally have their longest axes directed in the line which the reef would have held1 if the atoll had been bounded by an ordinary wall4 ,we may also infer that the central ring-formed reefs are modifications of those irregular ones1 which are found in the lagoons of all common atolls4 ,it appears from the charts on a large scale1 that the ring-like structure is contingent on the marginal channels or breaches being wide2 and1 consequently1 on the whole interior of the atoll being freely exposed to the waters of the open sea4 ,when the channels are narrow or few in number1 although the lagoon be of great size and depth 7as in ,suadiva71 there are no ring-formed reefs2 where the channels are somewhat broader1 the marginal portions of reef1 and especially those close to the larger channels1 are ring-formed1 but the central ones are not so2 where they are broadest1 almost every reef throughout the atoll is more or less perfectly ring-formed4 ,although their presence is thus contingent on the openness of the marginal channels1 the theory of their formation1 as we shall hereafter see1 is included in that of the parent atolls1 of which they form the separate portions4 ,the lagoons of all the atolls in the southern part of the ,archipelago are from ten to twenty fathoms deeper than those in the northern part4 ,this is well exemplified in the case of ,addoo1 the southernmost atoll in the group1 for although only nine miles in its longest diameter1 it has a depth of thirty-nine fathoms1 whereas all the other small atolls have comparatively shallow lagoons2 ,i can assign no adequate cause for this difference in depth4 ,in the central and deepest part of the lagoons1 the bottom consists1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 of stiff clay 7probably a calcareous mud72 nearer the border it consists of sand1 and in the channels through the reef1 of hard sand-banks1 sandstone1 conglomerate rubble1 and a little live coral4 ,close outside the reef and the line joining its detached portions 7where intersected by many channels71 the bottom is sandy1 and it slopes abruptly into unfathomable depths4 ,in most lagoons the depth is considerably greater in the centre than in the channels2 but in ,tilla-dou-,matte1 where the marginal ring-formed reefs stand far apart1 the same depth is carried across the entire atoll1 from the deep-water line on one side to that on the other4 ,i cannot refrain from once again remarking on the singularity of these atolls1--a great sandy and generally concave disc rises abruptly from the unfathomable ocean1 with its central expanse studded and its border symmetrically fringed with oval basins of coral-rock1 just lipping the surface of the sea1 sometimes clothed with vegetation1 and each containing a little lake of clear water6 ,in the southern ,maldiva atolls1 of which there are nine large ones1 all the small reefs within the lagoons come to the surface1 and are dry at low water spring-tides2 hence in navigating them1 there is no danger from submarine banks4 ,this circumstance is very remarkable1 as within some atolls1 for instance those of the neighbouring ,chagos group1 not a single reef comes to the surface1 and in most other cases a few only do1 and the rest lie at all intermediate depths from the bottom upwards4 ,when treating of the growth of coral ,i shall again refer to this subject4 ,although in the neighbourhood of the ,maldiva ,archipelago the winds1 during the monsoons1 blow during nearly an equal time from opposite quarters1 and although1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 the westerly winds are the strongest1 yet the islets are almost all placed on the eastern side of the northern atolls1 and on the south-eastern side of the southern atolls4 ,that the formation of the islets is due to detritus thrown up from the outside1 as in the ordinary manner1 and not from the interior of the lagoons1 may1 ,i think be safely inferred from several considerations1 which it is hardly worth while to detail4 ,as the easterly winds are not the strongest1 their action probably is aided by some prevailing swell or current4 ,in groups of atolls1 exposed to a trade-wind1 the ship-channels into the lagoons are almost invariably situated on the leeward or less exposed side of the reef1 and the reef itself is sometimes either wanting there1 or is submerged4 ,a strictly analogous1 but different fact1 may be observed at the ,maldiva atolls--namely1 that where two atolls stand in front of each other1 the breaches in the reef are the most numerous on their near1 and therefore less exposed1 sides4 ,thus on the near sides of ,ari and the two ,nillandoo atolls1 which face ,s4 ,mle1 ,phaleedoo1 and ,moloque atolls1 there are seventy-three deep-water channels1 and only twenty-five on their outer sides2 on the near side of the three latter named atolls there are fifty- six openings1 and only thirty-seven on their outsides4 ,it is scarcely possible to attribute this difference to any other cause than the somewhat different action of the sea on the two sides1 which would ensue from the protection afforded by the two rows of atolls to each other4 ,i may here remark that in most cases1 the conditions favourable to the greater accumulation of fragments on the reef and to its more perfect continuity on one side of the atoll than on the other1 have concurred1 but this has not been the case with the ,maldivas2 for we have seen that the islets are placed on the eastern or south-eastern sides1 whilst the breaches in the reef occur indifferently on any side1 where protected by an opposite atoll4 ,the reef being more continuous on the outer and more exposed sides of those atolls which stand near each other1 accords with the fact1 that the reef of the southern atolls is more continuous than that of the northern ones2 for the former1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 are more constantly exposed than the northern atolls to a heavy surf4 ,the date of the first formation of some of the islets in this ,archipelago is known to the inhabitants2 on the other hand1 several islets1 and even some of those which are believed to be very old1 are now fast wearing away4 ,the work of destruction has1 in some instances1 been completed in ten years4 ,captain ,moresby found on one water-washed reef the marks of wells and graves1 which were excavated when it supported an islet4 ,in ,south ,nillandoo atoll1 the natives say that three of the islets were formerly larger3 in ,north ,nillandoo there is one now being washed away2 and in this latter atoll ,lieutenant ,prentice found a reef1 about six hundred yards in diameter1 which the natives positively affirmed was lately an island covered with cocoa-nut trees4 ,it is now only partially dry at low water spring-tides1 and is 7in ,lieutenant ,prentice's words7 8entirely covered with live coral and madrepore40 ,in the northern part1 also1 of the ,maldiva ,archipelago and in the ,chagos group1 it is known that some of the islets are disappearing4 ,the natives attribute these effects to variations in the currents of the sea4 ,for my own part ,i cannot avoid suspecting that there must be some further cause1 which gives rise to such a cycle of change in the action of the currents of the great and open ocean4 ,several of the atolls in this ,archipelago are so related to each other in form and position1 that at the first glance one is led to suspect that they have originated in the disseverment of a single one4 ,mle consists of three perfectly characterised atolls1 of which the shape and relative position are such1 that a line drawn closely round all three1 gives a symmetrical figure2 to see this clearly1 a larger chart is required than that of the ,archipelago in ,plate ,,ii42 the channel separating the two northern ,mle atolls is only little more than a mile wide1 and no bottom was found in it with #ajj fathoms4 ,powell's ,island is situated at the distance of two miles and a half off the northern end of ,mahlos ,mahdoo 7see ,figure #d1 ,plate ,,ii471 at the exact point where the two sides of the latter1 if prolonged1 would meet2 no bottom1 however1 was found in the channel with #bjj fathoms2 in the wider channel between ,horsburgh atoll and the southern end of ,mahlos ,mahdoo1 no bottom was found with #bej fathoms4 ,in these and similar cases1 the relation consists only in the form and position of the atolls4 ,but in the channel between the two ,nillandoo atolls1 although three miles and a quarter wide1 soundings were struck at the depth of #bjj fathoms2 the channel between ,ross and ,ari atolls is four miles wide1 and only #aej fathoms deep4 ,here then we have1 besides the relation of form1 a submarine connection4 ,the fact of soundings having been obtained between two separate and perfectly characterised atolls is in itself interesting1 as it has never1 ,i believe1 been effected in any of the many other groups of atolls in the ,pacific and ,indian seas4 ,in continuing to trace the connection of adjoining atolls1 if a hasty glance be taken at the chart 7,figure #d41 ,plate ,,ii47 of ,mahlos ,mahdoo1 and the line of unfathomable water be followed1 no one will hesitate to consider it as one atoll4 ,but a second look will show that it is divided by a bifurcating channel1 of which the northern arm is about one mile and three-quarters in width1 with an average depth of #abe fathoms1 and the southern one three-quarters of a mile wide1 and rather less deep4 ,these channels resemble in the slope of their sides and general form1 those which separate atolls in every respect distinct2 and the northern arm is wider than that dividing two of the ,mle atolls4 ,the ring-formed reefs on the sides of this bifurcating channel are elongated1 so that the northern and southern portions of ,mahlos ,mahdoo may claim1 as far as their external outline is concerned1 to be considered as distinct and perfect atolls4 ,but the intermediate portion1 lying in the fork of the channel1 is bordered by reefs less perfect than those which surround any other atoll in the group of equally small dimensions4 ,mahlos ,mahdoo1 therefore1 is in every respect in so intermediate a condition1 that it may be considered either as a single atoll nearly dissevered into three portions1 or as three atolls almost perfect and intimately connected4 ,this is an instance of a very early stage of the apparent disseverment of an atoll1 but a still earlier one in many respects is exhibited at ,tilla-dou- ,matte4 ,in one part of this atoll1 the ring-formed reefs stand so far apart from each other1 that the inhabitants have given different names to the northern and southern halves2 nearly all the rings1 moreover1 are so perfect and stand so separate1 and the space from which they rise is so level and unlike a true lagoon1 that we can easily imagine the conversion of this one great atoll1 not into two or three portions1 but into a whole group of miniature atolls4 ,a perfect series such as we have here traced1 impresses the mind with an idea of actual change2 and it will hereafter be seen1 that the theory of subsidence1 with the upward growth of the coral1 modified by accidents of probable occurrence1 will account for the occasional disseverment of large atolls4 ,the ,great ,chagos bank alone remains to be described4 ,in the ,chagos group there are some ordinary atolls1 some annular reefs rising to the surface but without any islets on them1 and some atoll-formed banks1 either quite submerged1 or nearly so4 ,of the latter1 the ,great ,chagos ,bank is much the largest1 and differs in its structure from the others3 a plan of it is given in ,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #a1 in which1 for the sake of clearness1 ,i have had the parts under ten fathoms deep finely shaded3 an east and west vertical section is given in ,figure #b1 in which the vertical scale has been necessarily exaggerated4 ,its longest axis is ninety nautical miles1 and another line drawn at right angles to the first1 across the broadest part1 is seventy4 ,the central part consists of a level muddy flat1 between forty and fifty fathoms deep1 which is surrounded on all sides1 with the exception of some breaches1 by the steep edges of a set of banks1 rudely arranged in a circle4 ,these banks consist of sand1 with a very little live coral2 they vary in breadth from five to twelve miles1 and on an average lie about sixteen fathoms beneath the surface2 they are bordered by the steep edges of a third narrow and upper bank1 which forms the rim to the whole4 ,this rim is about a mile in width1 and with the exception of two or three spots where islets have been formed1 is submerged between five and ten fathoms4 ,it consists of smooth hard rock1 covered with a thin layer of sand1 but with scarcely any live coral2 it is steep on both sides1 and outwards slopes abruptly into unfathomable depths4 ,at the distance of less than half a mile from one part1 no bottom was found with #aij fathoms2 and off another point1 at a somewhat greater distance1 there was none with #baj fathoms4 ,small steep-sided banks or knolls1 covered with luxuriantly growing coral1 rise from the interior expanse to the same level with the external rim1 which1 as we have seen1 is formed only of dead rock4 ,it is impossible to look at the plan 7,figure #a1 ,plate ,,ii471 although reduced to so small a scale1 without at once perceiving that the ,great ,chagos ,bank is1 in the words of ,captain ,moresby1#bf 8nothing more than a half-drowned atoll40 ,but of what great dimensions1 and of how extraordinary an internal structure8 ,we shall hereafter have to consider both the cause of its submerged condition1 a state common to other banks in the group1 and the origin of the singular submarine terraces1 which bound the central expanse3 these1 ,i think1 it can be shown1 have resulted from a cause analogous to that which has produced the bifurcating channel across ,mahlos ,mahdoo4 #bf ,this officer has had the kindness to lend me an excellent ,,ms4 account of the ,chagos ,islands2 from this paper1 from the published charts1 and from verbal information communicated to me by ,captain ,moresby1 the above account of the ,great ,chagos ,bank is taken4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,barrier ,,reefs4 ,closely resemble in general form and structure atoll-reefs4--,width and depth of the lagoon-channels4--,breaches through the reef in front of valleys1 and generally on the leeward side4--,checks to the filling up of the lagoon-channels4--,size and constitution of the encircled islands4-- ,number of islands within the same reef4--,barrier-reefs of ,new ,caledonia and ,australia4--,position of the reef relative to the slope of the adjoining land4--,probable great thickness of barrier-reefs4 ,the term 8barrier0 has been generally applied to that vast reef which fronts the ,n4,e4 shore of ,australia1 and by most voyagers likewise to that on the western coast of ,new ,caledonia4 ,at one time ,i thought it convenient thus to restrict the term1 but as these reefs are similar in structure1 and in position relatively to the land1 to those1 which1 like a wall with a deep moat within1 encircle many smaller islands1 ,i have classed them together4 ,the reef1 also1 on the west coast of ,new ,caledonia1 circling round the extremities of the island1 is an intermediate form between a small encircling reef and the ,australian barrier1 which stretches for a thousand miles in nearly a straight line4 ,the geographer ,balbi has in effect described those barrier-reefs1 which encircle moderately sized islands1 by calling them atolls with high land rising from within their central expanse4 ,the general resemblance between the reefs of the barrier and atoll classes may be seen in the small1 but accurately reduced charts on ,plate ,i41#a and this resemblance can be further shown to extend to every part of the structure4 ,beginning with the outside of the reef2 many scattered soundings off ,gambier1 ,oualan1 and some other encircled islands1 show that close to the breakers there exists a narrow shelving margin1 beyond which the ocean becomes suddenly unfathomable2 but off the west coast of ,new ,caledonia1 ,captain ,kent#b found no bottom with #aej fathoms1 at two ships' length from the reef2 so that the slope here must be nearly as precipitous as off the ,maldiva atolls4 #a ,the authorities from which these charts have been reduced1 together with some remarks on them and descriptive of the ,plates1 are given separately4 #b ,dalrymple1 8,hydrog4 ,mem40 volume iii4 ,i can give little information regarding the kinds of corals which live on the outer margin4 ,when ,i visited the reef at ,tahiti1 although it was low water1 the surf was too violent for me to see the living masses2 but1 according to what ,i heard from some intelligent native chiefs1 they resemble in their rounded and branchless forms1 those on the margin of ,keeling atoll4 ,the extreme verge of the reef1 which was visible between the breaking waves at low water1 consisted of a rounded1 convex1 artificial-like breakwater1 entirely coated with ,nullipor1 and absolutely similar to that which ,i have described at ,keeling atoll4 ,from what ,i heard when at ,tahiti1 and from the writings of the ,revs4 ,w4 ,ellis and ,j4 ,williams1 ,i conclude that this peculiar structure is common to most of the encircled islands of the ,society ,archipelago4 ,the reef within this mound or breakwater1 has an extremely irregular surface1 even more so than between the islets on the reef of ,keeling atoll1 with which alone 7as there are no islets on the reef of ,tahiti7 it can properly be compared4 ,at ,tahiti1 the reef is very irregular in width2 but round many other encircled islands1 for instance1 ,vanikoro or ,gambier ,islands 7,figures #a and #h1 ,plate ,i471 it is quite as regular1 and of the same average width1 as in true atolls4 ,most barrier-reefs on the inner side slope irregularly into the lagoon-channel 7as the space of deep water separating the reef from the included land may be called71 but at ,vanikoro the reef slopes only for a short distance1 and then terminates abruptly in a submarine wall1 forty feet high1--a structure absolutely similar to that described by ,chamisso in the ,marshall atolls4 ,in the ,society ,archipelago1 ,ellis#c states1 that the reefs generally lie at the distance of from one to one and a half miles1 and1 occasionally1 even at more than three miles1 from the shore4 ,the central mountains are generally bordered by a fringe of flat1 and often marshy1 alluvial land1 from one to four miles in width4 ,this fringe consists of coral-sand and detritus thrown up from the lagoon-channel1 and of soil washed down from the hills2 it is an encroachment on the channel1 analogous to that low and inner part of the islets in many atolls which is formed by the accumulation of matter from the lagoon4 ,at ,hogoleu 7,figure #b1 ,plate ,i471 in the ,caroline ,archipelago1#d the reef on the south side is no less than twenty miles2 on the east side1 five2 and on the north side1 fourteen miles from the encircled high islands4 #c ,consult1 on this and other points1 the 8,polynesian ,researches10 by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis1 an admirable work1 full of curious information4 #d ,see 8,hydrographical ,mem40 and the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,astrolabe10 by ,captain ,dumont ,d',urville1 page #dbh4 ,the lagoon channels may be compared in every respect with true lagoons4 ,in some cases they are open1 with a level bottom of fine sand2 in others they are choked up with reefs of delicately branched corals1 which have the same general character as those within the ,keeling atoll4 ,these internal reefs either stand separately1 or more commonly skirt the shores of the included high islands4 ,the depth of the lagoon-channel round the ,society ,islands varies from two or three to thirty fathoms2 in ,cook's#e chart of ,ulieta1 however1 there is one sounding laid down of forty-eight fathoms2 at ,vanikoro there are several of fifty-four and one of fifty-six and a half fathoms 7,english71 a depth which even exceeds by a little that of the interior of the great ,maldiva atolls4 ,some barrier-reefs have very few islets on them2 whilst others are surmounted by numerous ones2 and those round part of ,bolabola 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #e7 form a single linear strip4 ,the islets first appear either on the angles of the reef1 or on the sides of the breaches through it1 and are generally most numerous on the windward side4 ,the reef to leeward retaining its usual width1 sometimes lies submerged several fathoms beneath the surface2 ,i have already mentioned ,gambier ,island as an instance of this structure4 ,submerged reefs1 having a less defined outline1 dead1 and covered with sand1 have been observed 7see ,appendix7 off some parts of ,huaheine and ,tahiti4 ,the reef is more frequently breached to leeward than to windward2 thus ,i find in ,krusenstern's 8,memoir on the ,pacific10 that there are passages through the encircling reef on the leeward side of each of the seven ,society ,islands1 which possess ship-harbours2 but that there are openings to windward through the reef of only three of them4 ,the breaches in the reef are seldom as deep as the interior lagoon-like channel2 they generally occur in front of the main valleys1 a circumstance which can be accounted for1 as will be seen in the fourth chapter1 without much difficulty4 ,the breaches being situated in front of the valleys1 which descend indifferently on all sides1 explains their more frequent occurrence through the windward side of barrier-reefs than through the windward side of atolls1--for in atolls there is no included land to influence the position of the breaches4 #e ,see the chart in volume i4 of ,hawkesworth's #dto edition of 8,cook's ,first ,voyage40 ,it is remarkable1 that the lagoon-channels round mountainous islands have not in every instance been long ago filled up with coral and sediment2 but it is more easily accounted for than appears at first sight4 ,in cases like that of ,hogoleu and the ,gambier ,islands1 where a few small peaks rise out of a great lagoon1 the conditions scarcely differ from those of an atoll1 and ,i have already shown1 at some length1 that the filling up of a true lagoon must be an extremely slow process4 ,where the channel is narrow1 the agency1 which on unprotected coasts is most productive of sediment1 namely the force of the breakers1 is here entirely excluded1 and the reef being breached in the front of the main valleys1 much of the finer mud from the rivers must be transported into the open sea4 ,as a current is formed by the water thrown over the edge of atoll-formed reefs1 which carries sediment with it through the deep-water breaches1 the same thing probably takes place in barrier-reefs1 and this would greatly aid in preventing the lagoon-channel from being filled up4 ,the low alluvial border1 however1 at the foot of the encircled mountains1 shows that the work of filling up is in progress2 and at ,maura 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #f71 in the ,society group1 it has been almost effected1 so that there remains only one harbour for small craft4 ,if we look at a set of charts of barrier-reefs1 and leave out in imagination the encircled land1 we shall find that1 besides the many points already noticed of resemblance1 or rather of identity in structure with atolls1 there is a close general agreement in form1 average dimensions1 and grouping4 ,encircling barrier-reefs1 like atolls1 are generally elongated1 with an irregularly rounded1 though sometimes angular outline4 ,there are atolls of all sizes1 from less than two miles in diameter to sixty miles 7excluding ,tilla-dou-,matte1 as it consists of a number of almost independent atoll-formed reefs72 and there are encircling barrier-reefs from three miles and a half to forty-six miles in diameter1--,turtle ,island being an instance of the former1 and ,hogoleu of the latter4 ,at ,tahiti the encircled island is thirty-six miles in its longest axis1 whilst at ,maurua it is only a little more than two miles4 ,it will be shown1 in the last chapter in this volume1 that there is the strictest resemblance in the grouping of atolls and of common islands1 and consequently there must be the same resemblance in the grouping of atolls and of encircling barrier-reefs4 ,the islands lying within reefs of this class1 are of very various heights4 ,tahiti#f is #g1jjj feet2 ,maurua about #hjj2 ,aitutaki #cfj1 and ,manouai only #ej4 ,the geological nature of the included land varies3 in most cases it is of ancient volcanic origin1 owing apparently to the fact that islands of this nature are most frequent within all great seas2 some1 however1 are of madreporitic limestone1 and others of primary formation1 of which latter kind ,new ,caledonia offers the best example4 ,the central land consists either of one island1 or of several3 thus1 in the ,society group1 ,eimeo stands by itself2 while ,taha and ,raiatea 7,figure #c1 ,plate ,i471 both moderately large islands of nearly equal size1 are included in one reef4 ,within the reef of the ,gambier group there are four large and some smaller islands 7,figure #h1 ,plate ,i472 within that of ,hogoleu 7,figure #b1 ,plate ,i47 nearly a dozen small islands are scattered over the expanse of one vast lagoon4 #f ,the height of ,tahiti is given from ,captain ,beechey2 ,maurua from ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett 78,geograph4 ,journ40 volume viii41 page #bbj72 ,aitutaki from measurements made on board the ,beagle2 and ,manouai or ,harvey ,island1 from an estimate by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams4 ,the two latter islands1 however1 are not in some respects well characterised examples of the encircled class4 ,after the details now given1 it may be asserted that there is not one point of essential difference between encircling barrier-reefs and atolls3 the latter enclose a simple sheet of water1 the former encircle an expanse with one or more islands rising from it4 ,i was much struck with this fact1 when viewing1 from the heights of ,tahiti1 the distant island of ,eimeo standing within smooth water1 and encircled by a ring of snow-white breakers4 ,remove the central land1 and an annular reef like that of an atoll in an early stage of its formation is left2 remove it from ,bolabola1 and there remains a circle of linear coral-islets1 crowned with tall cocoa-nut trees1 like one of the many atolls scattered over the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans4 ,the barrier-reefs of ,australia and of ,new ,caledonia deserve a separate notice from their great dimensions4 ,the reef on the west coast of ,new ,caledonia 7,figure #e1 ,plate ,,ii47 is #djj miles in length2 and for a length of many leagues it seldom approaches within eight miles of the shore2 and near the southern end of the island1 the space between the reef and the land is sixteen miles in width4 ,the ,australian barrier extends1 with a few interruptions1 for nearly a thousand miles2 its average distance from the land is between twenty and thirty miles2 and in some parts from fifty to seventy4 ,the great arm of the sea thus included1 is from ten to twenty-five fathoms deep1 with a sandy bottom2 but towards the southern end1 where the reef is further from the shore1 the depth gradually increases to forty1 and in some parts to more than sixty fathoms4 ,flinders#g has described the surface of this reef as consisting of a hard white agglomerate of different kinds of coral1 with rough projecting points4 ,the outer edge is the highest part2 it is traversed by narrow gullies1 and at rare intervals is breached by ship-channels4 ,the sea close outside is profoundly deep2 but1 in front of the main breaches1 soundings can sometimes be obtained4 ,some low islets have been formed on the reef4 #g ,flinders' 8,voyage to ,terra ,australis10 volume ii41 page #hh4 ,illustration #a4 ,,vanikoro1 from the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,astrolabe10 by ,d4 ,d',urville4 #b4 ,,gambier ,,island1 from ,beechey4 #c4 ,,maurua1 from the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,coquille10 by ,duperrey4 ,the horizontal line is the level of the sea1 from which on the right hand a plummet descends1 representing a depth of #bjj fathoms1 or #a1bjj feet4 ,the vertical shading shows the section of the land1 and the horizontal shading that of the encircling barrier-reef3 from the smallness of the scale1 the lagoon-channel could not be represented4 ,,aa4--,outer edge of the coral-reefs1 where the sea breaks4 ,,bb4--,the shore of the encircled islands47 ,there is one important point in the structure of barrier-reefs which must here be considered4 ,the accompanying diagrams represent north and south vertical sections1 taken through the highest points of ,vanikoro1 ,gambier1 and ,maurua ,islands1 and through their encircling reefs4 ,the scale both in the horizontal and vertical direction is the same1 namely1 a quarter of an inch to a nautical mile4 ,the height and width of these islands is known2 and ,i have attempted to represent the form of the land from the shading of the hills in the large published charts4 ,it has long been remarked1 even from the time of ,dampier1 that considerable degree of relation subsists between the inclination of that part of the land which is beneath water and that above it2 hence the dotted line in the three sections1 probably1 does not widely differ in inclination from the actual submarine prolongation of the land4 ,if we now look at the outer edge of the reef 7,,aa71 and bear in mind that the plummet on the right hand represents a depth of #a1bjj feet1 we must conclude that the vertical thickness of these barrier coral-reefs is very great4 ,i must observe that if the sections had been taken in any other direction across these islands1 or across other encircled islands1#h the result would have been the same4 ,in the succeeding chapter it will be shown that reef-building polypifers cannot flourish at great depths1--for instance1 it is highly improbable that they could exist at a quarter of the depth represented by the plummet on the right hand of the woodcut4 ,here there is a great apparent difficulty--how were the basal parts of these barrier-reef formed8 ,it will1 perhaps1 occur to some1 that the actual reefs formed of coral are not of great thickness1 but that before their first growth1 the coasts of these encircled islands were deeply eaten into1 and a broad but shallow submarine ledge thus left1 on the edge of which the coral grew2 but if this had been the case1 the shore would have been invariably bounded by lofty cliffs1 and not have sloped down to the lagoon-channel1 as it does in many instances4 ,on this view1#i moreover1 the cause of the reef springing up at such a great distance from the land1 leaving a deep and broad moat within1 remains altogether unexplained4 ,a supposition of the same nature1 and appearing at first more probable is1 that the reefs sprung up from banks of sediment1 which had accumulated round the shore previously to the growth of the coral2 but the extension of a bank to the same distance round an unbroken coast1 and in front of those deep arms of the sea 7as in ,raiatea1 see ,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #c7 which penetrate nearly to the heart of some encircled islands1 is exceedingly improbable4 ,and why1 again1 should the reef spring up1 in some cases steep on both sides like a wall1 at a distance of two1 three or more miles from the shore1 leaving a channel often between two hundred and three hundred feet deep1 and rising from a depth which we have reason to believe is destructive to the growth of coral8 ,an admission of this nature cannot possibly be made4 ,the existence1 also1 of the deep channel1 utterly precludes the idea of the reef having grown outwards1 on a foundation slowly formed on its outside1 by the accumulation of sediment and coral detritus4 ,nor1 again1 can it be asserted1 that the reef-building corals will not grow1 excepting at a great distance from the land2 for1 as we shall soon see1 there is a whole class of reefs1 which take their name from growing closely attached 7especially where the sea is deep7 to the beach4 ,at ,new ,caledonia 7see ,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #e7 the reefs which run in front of the west coast are prolonged in the same line #aej miles beyond the northern extremity of the island1 and this shows that some explanation1 quite different from any of those just suggested1 is required4 ,the continuation of the reefs on each side of the submarine prolongation of ,new ,caledonia1 is an exceedingly interesting fact1 if this part formerly existed as the northern extremity of the island1 and before the attachment of the coral had been worn down by the action of the sea1 or if it originally existed at its present height1 with or without beds of sediment on each flank1 how can we possibly account for the reefs1 not growing on the crest of this submarine portion1 but fronting its sides1 in the same line with the reefs which front the shores of the lofty island8 ,we shall hereafter see1 that there is one1 and ,i believe only one1 solution of this difficulty4 #h ,in the fifth chapter an east and west section across the ,island of ,bolabola and its barrier-reefs is given1 for the sake of illustrating another point4 ,the unbroken line in it 7woodcut ,no4 #e7 is the section referred to4 ,the scale is 4#eg of an inch to a mile2 it is taken from the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,coquille10 by ,duperrey4 ,the depth of the lagoon-channel is exaggerated4 #i ,the ,rev4 ,d4 ,tyerman and ,mr4 ,bennett 78,journal of ,voyage and ,travels10 volume i41 page #bae7 have briefly suggested this explanation of the origin of the encircling reefs of the ,society ,islands4 ,one other supposition to account for the position of encircling barrier-reefs remains1 but it is almost too preposterous to be mentioned2 namely1 that they rest on enormous submarine craters1 surrounding the included islands4 ,when the size1 height1 and form of the islands in the ,society group are considered1 together with the fact that all are thus encircled1 such a notion will be rejected by almost every one4 ,new ,caledonia1 moreover1 besides its size1 is composed of primitive formations1 as are some of the ,comoro ,islands2#aj and ,aitutaki consists of calcareous rock4 ,we must1 therefore1 reject these several explanations1 and conclude that the vertical thickness of barrier-reefs1 from their outer edges to the foundation on which they rest 7from ,,aa in the section to the dotted lines7 is really great2 but in this1 there is no difficulty1 for it is not necessary to suppose that the coral has sprung up from an immense depth1 as will be evident when the theory of the upward growth of coral-reefs1 during the slow subsidence of their foundation1 is discussed4 #aj ,i have been informed that this is the case by ,dr4 ,allan of ,forres1 who has visited this group4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,fringing ,,or ,,shore-,,reefs4 ,reefs of ,mauritius4--,shallow channel within the reef4--,its slow filling up4--,currents of water formed within it4--,upraised reefs4--,narrow fringing-reefs in deep seas4--,reefs on the coast of ,east ,africa and of ,brazil4--,fringing-reefs in very shallow seas1 round banks of sediment and on worn-down islands4--,fringing-reefs affected by currents of the sea4-- ,coral coating the bottom of the sea1 but not forming reefs4 ,fringing-reefs1 or1 as they have been called by some voyagers1 shore-reefs1 whether skirting an island or part of a continent1 might at first be thought to differ little1 except in generally being of less breadth1 from barrier-reefs4 ,as far as the superficies of the actual reef is concerned this is the case2 but the absence of an interior deep-water channel1 and the close relation in their horizontal extension with the probable slope beneath the sea of the adjoining land1 present essential points of difference4 ,the reefs which fringe the island of ,mauritius offer a good example of this class4 ,they extend round its whole circumference1 with the exception of two or three parts1#a where the coast is almost precipitous1 and where1 if as is probable the bottom of the sea has a similar inclination1 the coral would have no foundation on which to become attached4 ,a similar fact may sometimes be observed even in reefs of the barrier class1 which follow much less closely the outline of the adjoining land2 as1 for instance1 on the south-east and precipitous side of ,tahiti1 where the encircling reef is interrupted4 ,on the western side of the ,mauritius1 which was the only part ,i visited1 the reef generally lies at the distance of about half a mile from the shore2 but in some parts it is distant from one to two1 and even three miles4 ,but even in this last case1 as the coast-land is gently inclined from the foot of the mountains to the sea-beach1 and as the soundings outside the reef indicate an equally gentle slope beneath the water1 there is no reason for supposing that the basis of the reef1 formed by the prolongation of the strata of the island1 lies at a greater depth than that at which the polypifers could begin constructing the reef4 ,some allowance1 however1 must be made for the outward extension of the corals on a foundation of sand and detritus1 formed from their own wear1 which would give to the reef a somewhat greater vertical thickness1 than would otherwise be possible4 #a ,this fact is stated on the authority of the ,officier du ,roi1 in his extremely interesting 8,voyage l',isle de ,france10 undertaken in #agfh4 ,according to ,captain ,carmichael 7,hooker's 8,bot4 ,misc40 volume ii41 page #caf7 on one part of the coast there is a space for sixteen miles without a reef4 ,the outer edge of the reef on the western or leeward side of the island is tolerably well defined1 and is a little higher than any other part4 ,it chiefly consists of large strongly branched corals1 of the genus ,madrepora1 which also form a sloping bed some way out to sea3 the kinds of coral growing in this part will be described in the ensuing chapter4 ,between the outer margin and the beach1 there is a flat space with a sandy bottom and a few tufts of living coral2 in some parts it is so shallow1 that people1 by avoiding the deeper holes and gullies1 can wade across it at low water2 in other parts it is deeper1 seldom however exceeding ten or twelve feet1 so that it offers a safe coasting channel for boats4 ,on the eastern and windward side of the island1 which is exposed to a heavy surf1 the reef was described to me as having a hard smooth surface1 very slightly inclined inwards1 just covered at low-water1 and traversed by gullies2 it appears to be quite similar in structure to the reefs of the barrier and atoll classes4 ,the reef of ,mauritius1 in front of every river and streamlet1 is breached by a straight passage3 at ,grand ,port1 however1 there is a channel like that within a barrier-reef2 it extends parallel to the shore for four miles1 and has an average depth of ten or twelve fathoms2 its presence may probably be accounted for by two rivers which enter at each end of the channel1 and bend towards each other4 ,the fact of reefs of the fringing class being always breached in front of streams1 even of those which are dry during the greater part of the year1 will be explained1 when the conditions unfavourable to the growth of coral are considered4 ,low coral-islets1 like those on barrier-reefs and atolls1 are seldom formed on reefs of this class1 owing apparently in some cases to their narrowness1 and in others to the gentle slope of the reef outside not yielding many fragments to the breakers4 ,on the windward side1 however1 of the ,mauritius1 two or three small islets have been formed4 ,it appears1 as will be shown in the ensuing chapter1 that the action of the surf is favourable to the vigorous growth of the stronger corals1 and that sand or sediment1 if agitated by the waves1 is injurious to them4 ,hence it is probable that a reef on a shelving shore1 like that of ,mauritius1 would at first grow up1 not attached to the actual beach1 but at some little distance from it2 and the corals on the outer margin would be the most vigorous4 ,a shallow channel would thus be formed within the reef1 and as the breakers are prevented acting on the shores of the island1 and as they do not ordinarily tear up many fragments from the outside1 and as every streamlet has its bed prolonged in a straight line through the reef1 this channel could be filled up only very slowly with sediment4 ,but a beach of sand and of fragments of the smaller kinds of coral seems1 in the case of ,mauritius1 to be slowly encroaching on the shallow channel4 ,on many shelving and sandy coasts1 the breakers tend to form a bar of sand a little way from the beach1 with a slight increase of depth within it2 for instance1 ,captain ,grey#b states that the west coast of ,australia1 in latitude #bd1 is fronted by a sand bar about two hundred yards in width1 on which there is only two feet of water2 but within it the depth increases to two fathoms4 ,similar bars1 more or less perfect1 occur on other coasts4 ,in these cases ,i suspect that the shallow channel 7which no doubt during storms is occasionally obliterated7 is scooped out by the flowing away of the water thrown beyond the line1 on which the waves break with the greatest force4 ,at ,pernambuco a bar of hard sandstone1#c which has the same external form and height as a coral-reef1 extends nearly parallel to the coast2 within this bar currents1 apparently caused by the water thrown over it during the greater part of each tide1 run strongly1 and are wearing away its inner wall4 ,from these facts it can hardly be doubted1 that within most fringing-reefs1 especially within those lying some distance from the land1 a return stream must carry away the water thrown over the outer edge2 and the current thus produced1 would tend to prevent the channel being filled up with sediment1 and might even deepen it under certain circumstances4 ,to this latter belief ,i am led1 by finding that channels are almost universally present within the fringing-reefs of those islands which have undergone recent elevatory movements2 and this could hardly have been the case1 if the conversion of the very shallow channel into land had not been counteracted to a certain extent4 #b ,captain ,grey's 8,journal of ,two ,expeditions10 volume i4 page #cfi4 #c ,i have described this singular structure in the 8,london and ,edinburgh ,phil4 ,mag40 ,october #ahda4 ,a fringing-reef1 if elevated in a perfect condition above the level of the sea1 ought to present the singular appearance of a broad dry moat within a low mound4 ,the author#d of an interesting pedestrian tour round the ,mauritius1 seems to have met with a structure of this kind3 he says 8,j'observai que l1 o la mer tale1 indpendamment des rescifs du large1 il y terre une espce d'effoncement ou chemin couvert naturel4 ,on y pourrait mettre du canon10 etc4 ,in another place he adds1 8,avant de passer le ,cap1 on remarque un gros banc de corail elv de plus de quinze pieds3 c'est une espce de rescif1 que la mer abandonn1 il regne au pied une longue flaque d'eau1 dont on pourrait faire un bassin pour de petits vaisseaux40 ,but the margin of the reef1 although the highest and most perfect part1 from being most exposed to the surf1 would generally during a slow rise of the land be either partially or entirely worn down to that level1 at which corals could renew their growth on its upper edge4 ,on some parts of the coast-land of ,mauritius there are little hillocks of coral-rock1 which are either the last remnants of a continuous reef1 or of low islets formed on it4 ,i observed that two such hillocks between ,tamarin ,bay and the ,great ,black ,river2 they were nearly twenty feet high1 about two hundred yards from the present beach1 and about thirty feet above its level4 ,they rose abruptly from a smooth surface1 strewed with worn fragments of coral4 ,they consisted in their lower part of hard calcareous sandstone1 and in their upper of great blocks of several species of ,astra and ,madrepora1 loosely aggregated2 they were divided into irregular beds1 dipping seaward1 in one hillock at an angle of #h1 and in the other at #ah ,i suspect that the superficial parts of the reefs1 which have been upraised together with the islands they fringe1 have generally been much more modified by the wearing action of the sea1 than those of ,mauritius4 #d 8,voyage l',isle de ,france1 par un ,officier du ,roi10 part i41 pages #aib1 #bjj4 ,many islands#e are fringed by reefs quite similar to those of ,mauritius2 but on coasts where the sea deepens very suddenly the reefs are much narrower1 and their limited extension seems evidently to depend on the high inclination of the submarine slope2 a relation1 which1 as we have seen1 does not exist in reefs of the barrier class4 ,the fringing-reefs on steep coasts are frequently not more than from fifty to one hundred yards in width2 they have a nearly smooth1 hard surface1 scarcely uncovered at low water1 and without any interior shoal channel1 like that within those fringing-reefs1 which lie at a greater distance from the land4 ,the fragments torn up during gales from the outer margin are thrown over the reef on the shores of the island4 ,i may give as instances1 ,wateeo1 where the reef is described by ,cook as being a hundred yards wide2 and ,mauti and ,elizabeth ,islands1#f where it is only fifty yards in width3 the sea round these islands is very deep4 #e ,i may give ,cuba1 as another instance2 ,mr4 ,taylor 7,loudon's ,mag4 of ,nat4 ,hist4 volume ix41 page #ddi7 has described a reef several miles in length between ,gibara and ,vjaro1 which extends parallel to the shore at the distance of between half and the third part of a mile1 and encloses a space of shallow water1 with a sandy bottom and tufts of coral4 ,outside the edge of the reef1 which is formed of great branching corals1 the depth is six and seven fathoms4 ,this coast has been upheaved at no very distant geological period40 #f ,mauti is described by ,lord ,byron in the voyage of ,h4,m4,s4 ,blonde1 and ,elizabeth ,island by ,captain ,beechey4 ,fringing-reefs1 like barrier-reefs1 both surround islands1 and front the shores of continents4 ,in the charts of the eastern coast of ,africa1 by ,captain ,owen1 many extensive fringing-reefs are laid down2 thus1 for a space of nearly forty miles1 from latitude #a #ae to #a #de ,s41 a reef fringes the shore at an average distance of rather more than one mile1 and therefore at a greater distance than is usual in reefs of this class2 but as the coast-land is not lofty1 and as the bottom shoals very gradually 7the depth being only from eight to fourteen fathoms at a mile and a half outside the reef71 its extension thus far from the land offers no difficulty4 ,the external margin of this reef is described1 as formed of projecting points1 within which there is a space1 from six to twelve feet deep1 with patches of living coral on it4 ,at ,mukdeesha 7latitude #b #a ,n47 8the port is formed10 it is said1#g 8by a long reef extending eastward1 four or five miles1 within which there is a narrow channel1 with ten to twelve feet of water at low spring-tides20 it lies at the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore4 ,again1 in the plan of ,mombas 7latitude #d ,s471 a reef extends for thirty-six miles1 at the distance of from half a mile to one mile and a quarter from the shore2 within it1 there is a channel navigable 8for canoes and small craft10 between six and fifteen feet deep3 outside the reef the depth is about thirty fathoms at the distance of nearly half a mile4 ,part of this reef is very symmetrical1 and has a uniform breadth of two hundred yards4 #g ,owen's 8,africa10 volume i41 page #ceg1 from which work the foregoing facts are likewise taken4 ,the coast of ,brazil is in many parts fringed by reefs4 ,of these1 some are not of coral formation2 for instance1 those near ,bahia and in front of ,pernambuco2 but a few miles south of this latter city1 the reef follows#h so closely every turn of the shore1 that ,i can hardly doubt it is of coral2 it runs at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the land1 and within it the depth is from ten to fifteen feet4 ,i was assured by an intelligent pilot that at ,ports ,frances and ,maceio1 the outer part of the reef consists of living coral1 and the inner of a white stone1 full of large irregular cavities1 communicating with the sea4 ,the bottom of the sea off the coast of ,brazil shoals gradually to between thirty and forty fathoms1 at the distance of between nine and ten leagues from the land4 #h ,see ,baron ,roussin's 8,pilote du ,brsil10 and accompanying hydrographical memoir4 ,from the description now given1 we must conclude that the dimensions and structure of fringing-reefs depend entirely on the greater or less inclination of the submarine slope1 conjoined with the fact that reef-building polypifers can exist only at limited depths4 ,it follows from this1 that where the sea is very shallow1 as in the ,persian ,gulf and in parts of the ,east ,indian ,archipelago1 the reefs lose their fringing character1 and appear as separate and irregularly scattered patches1 often of considerable area4 ,from the more vigorous growth of the coral on the outside1 and from the conditions being less favourable in several respects within1 such reefs are generally higher and more perfect in their marginal than in their central parts2 hence these reefs sometimes assume 7and this circumstance ought not to be overlooked7 the appearance of atolls2 but they differ from atolls in their central expanse being much less deep1 in their form being less defined1 and in being based on a shallow foundation4 ,but when in a deep sea reefs fringe banks of sediment1 which have accumulated beneath the surface1 round either islands or submerged rocks1 they are distinguished with difficulty on the one hand from encircling barrier-reefs1 and on the other from atolls4 ,in the ,west ,indies there are reefs1 which ,i should probably have arranged under both these classes1 had not the existence of large and level banks1 lying a little beneath the surface1 ready to serve as the basis for the attachment of coral1 been occasionally brought into view by the entire or partial absence of reefs on them1 and had not the formation of such banks1 through the accumulation of sediment now in progress1 been sufficiently evident4 ,fringing-reefs sometimes coat1 and thus protect the foundations of islands1 which have been worn down by the surf to the level of the sea4 ,according to ,ehrenberg1 this has been extensively the case with the islands in the ,red ,sea1 which formerly ranged parallel to the shores of the mainland1 with deep water within them3 hence the reefs now coating their bases are situated relatively to the land like barrier-reefs1 although not belonging to that class2 but there are1 as ,i believe1 in the ,red ,sea some true barrier-reefs4 ,the reefs of this sea and of the ,west ,indies will be described in the ,appendix4 ,in some cases1 fringing-reefs appear to be considerably modified in outline by the course of the prevailing currents4 ,dr4 ,j4 ,allan informs me that on the east coast of ,madagascar almost every headland and low point of sand has a coral-reef extending from it in a ,s4,w4 and ,n4,e4 line1 parallel to the currents on that shore4 ,i should think the influence of the currents chiefly consisted in causing an extension1 in a certain direction1 of a proper foundation for the attachment of the coral4 ,round many intertropical islands1 for instance the ,abrolhos on the coast of ,brazil surveyed by ,captain ,fitzroy1 and1 as ,i am informed by ,mr4 ,cuming1 round the ,philippines1 the bottom of the sea is entirely coated by irregular masses of coral1 which although often of large size1 do not reach the surface and form proper reefs4 ,this must be owing1 either to insufficient growth1 or to the absence of those kinds of corals which can withstand the breaking of the waves4 ,the three classes1 atoll-formed1 barrier1 and fringing-reefs1 together with the modifications just described of the latter1 include all the most remarkable coral formations anywhere existing4 ,at the commencement of the last chapter in the volume1 where ,i detail the principles on which the map 7,plate ,,iii47 is coloured1 the exceptional cases will be enumerated4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,and ,,growth ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs4 ,in this chapter ,i will give all the facts which ,i have collected1 relating to the distribution of coral-reefs1--to the conditions favourable to their increase1--to the rate of their growth1--and to the depth at which they are formed4 ,these subjects have an important bearing on the theory of the origin of the different classes of coral-reefs4 ,,section ,i4--,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs1 ,,and ,,on ,,the ,,conditions ,,favourable ,,to ,,their ,,increase4 ,with regard to the limits of latitude1 over which coral-reefs extend1 ,i have nothing new to add4 ,the ,bermuda ,islands1 in #cb #ae ,n41 is the point furthest removed from the equator1 in which they appear to exist2 and it has been suggested that their extension so far northward in this instance is owing to the warmth of the ,gulf ,stream4 ,in the ,pacific1 the ,loo ,choo ,islands1 in latitude #bg ,n41 have reefs on their shores1 and there is an atoll in #bh #cj1 situated ,n4,w4 of the ,sandwich ,archipelago4 ,in the ,red ,sea there are coral-reefs in latitude #cj4 ,in the southern hemisphere coral-reefs do not extend so far from the equatorial sea4 ,in the ,southern ,pacific there are only a few reefs beyond the line of the tropics1 but ,houtmans ,abrolhos1 on the western shores of ,australia in latitude #bi ,s41 are of coral formation4 ,the proximity of volcanic land1 owing to the lime generally evolved from it1 has been thought to be favourable to the increase of coral-reefs4 ,there is1 however1 not much foundation for this view2 for nowhere are coral-reefs more extensive than on the shores of ,new ,caledonia1 and of north-eastern ,australia1 which consist of primary formations2 and in the largest groups of atolls1 namely the ,maldiva1 ,chagos1 ,marshall1 ,gilbert1 and ,low ,archipelagoes1 there is no volcanic or other kind of rock1 excepting that formed of coral4 ,the entire absence of coral-reefs in certain large areas within the tropical seas1 is a remarkable fact4 ,thus no coral-reefs were observed1 during the surveying voyages of the 8,beagle0 and her tender on the west coast of ,south ,america south of the equator1 or round the ,galapagos ,islands4 ,it appears1 also1 that there are none#a north of the equator2 ,mr4 ,lloyd1 who surveyed the ,isthmus of ,panama1 remarked to me1 that although he had seen corals living in the ,bay of ,panama1 yet he had never observed any reefs formed by them4 ,i at first attributed this absence of reefs on the coasts of ,peru and of the ,galapagos ,islands1#b to the coldness of the currents from the south1 but the ,gulf of ,panama is one of the hottest pelagic districts in the world4#c ,in the central parts of the ,pacific there are islands entirely free from reefs2 in some few of these cases ,i have thought that this was owing to recent volcanic action2 but the existence of reefs round the greater part of ,hawaii1 one of the ,sandwich ,islands1 shows that recent volcanic action does not necessarily prevent their growth4 #a ,i have been informed that this is the case1 by ,lieutenant ,ryder1 ,r4,n41 and others who have had ample opportunities for observation4 #b ,the mean temperature of the surface sea from observations made by the direction of ,captain ,fitzroy on the shores of the ,galapagos ,islands1 between the #afth of ,september and the #bjth of ,october1 #ahce1 was #fh ,fahr4 ,the lowest temperature observed was #eh4e at the south-west end of ,albemarle ,island2 and on the west coast of this island1 it was several times #fb and #fc4 ,the mean temperature of the sea in the ,low ,archipelago of atolls1 and near ,tahiti1 from similar observations made on board the ,beagle1 was 7although further from the equator7 #gg4e1 the lowest any day being #gf4e4 ,therefore we have here a difference of #i4e in mean temperature1 and #ah in extremes2 a difference doubtless quite sufficient to affect the distribution of organic beings in the two areas4 #c ,humboldt's 8,personal ,narrative10 volume vii41 page #dcd4 ,in the last chapter ,i stated that the bottom of the sea round some islands is thickly coated with living corals1 which nevertheless do not form reefs1 either from insufficient growth1 or from the species not being adapted to contend with the breaking waves4 ,i have been assured by several people1 that there are no coral-reefs on the west coast of ,africa1#d or round the islands in the ,gulf of ,guinea4 ,this perhaps may be attributed1 in part1 to the sediment brought down by the many rivers debouching on that coast1 and to the extensive mud-banks1 which line great part of it4 ,but the islands of ,st4 ,helena1 ,ascension1 the ,cape ,verdes1 ,st4 ,paul's1 and ,fernando ,noronha1 are1 also1 entirely without reefs1 although they lie far out at sea1 are composed of the same ancient volcanic rocks1 and have the same general form1 with those islands in the ,pacific1 the shores of which are surrounded by gigantic walls of coral-rock4 ,with the exception of ,bermuda1 there is not a single coral-reef in the central expanse of the ,atlantic ,ocean4 ,it will1 perhaps1 be suggested that the quantity of carbonate of lime in different parts of the sea1 may regulate the presence of reefs4 ,but this cannot be the case1 for at ,ascension1 the waves charged to excess precipitate a thick layer of calcareous matter on the tidal rocks2 and at ,st4 ,jago1 in the ,cape ,verdes1 carbonate of lime not only is abundant on the shores1 but it forms the chief part of some upraised post-tertiary strata4 ,the apparently capricious distribution1 therefore1 of coral-reefs1 cannot be explained by any of these obvious causes2 but as the study of the terrestrial and better known half of the world must convince every one that no station capable of supporting life is lost1--nay more1 that there is a struggle for each station1 between the different orders of nature1--we may conclude that in those parts of the intertropical sea1 in which there are no coral-reefs1 there are other organic bodies supplying the place of the reef-building polypifers4 ,it has been shown in the chapter on ,keeling atoll that there are some species of large fish1 and the whole tribe of ,holothuri which prey on the tenderer parts of the corals4 ,on the other hand1 the polypifers in their turn must prey on some other organic beings2 the decrease of which from any cause would cause a proportionate destruction of the living coral4 ,the relations1 therefore1 which determine the formation of reefs on any shore1 by the vigorous growth of the efficient kinds of coral1 must be very complex1 and with our imperfect knowledge quite inexplicable4 ,from these considerations1 we may infer that changes in the condition of the sea1 not obvious to our senses1 might destroy all the coral-reefs in one area1 and cause them to appear in another3 thus1 the ,pacific or ,indian ,ocean might become as barren of coral-reefs as the ,atlantic now is1 without our being able to assign any adequate cause for such a change4 #d ,it might be concluded1 from a paper by ,captain ,owen 78,geographical ,journal01 volume ii41 page #hi71 that the reefs off ,cape ,st4 ,anne and the ,sherboro' ,islands were of coral1 although the author states that they are not purely coralline4 ,but ,i have been assured by ,lieutenant ,holland1 ,r4,n41 that these reefs are not of coral1 or at least that they do not at all resemble those in the ,west ,indies4 ,it has been a question with some naturalists1 which part of a reef is most favourable to the growth of coral4 ,the great mounds of living ,porites and of ,millepora round ,keeling atoll occur exclusively on the extreme verge of the reef1 which is washed by a constant succession of breakers2 and living coral nowhere else forms solid masses4 ,at the ,marshall islands the larger kinds of coral 7chiefly species of ,astra1 a genus closely allied to ,porites7 8which form rocks measuring several fathoms in thickness10 prefer1 according to ,chamisso1#e the most violent surf4 ,i have stated that the outer margin of the ,maldiva atolls consists of living corals 7some of which1 if not all1 are of the same species with those at ,keeling atoll71 and here the surf is so tremendous1 that even large ships have been thrown1 by a single heave of the sea1 high and dry on the reef1 all on board thus escaping with their lives4 #e ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage0 7,english ,translation7 volume iii41 pages #adb1 #adc1 #cca4 ,ehrenberg#f remarks1 that in the ,red ,sea the strongest corals live on the outer reefs1 and appear to love the surf2 he adds1 that the more branched kinds abound a little way within1 but that even these in still more protected places1 become smaller4 ,many other facts having a similar tendency might be adduced4#g ,it has1 however1 been doubted by ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard1 whether any kind of coral can even withstand1 much less flourish in1 the breakers of an open sea3#h they affirm that the saxigenous lithophytes flourish only where the water is tranquil1 and the heat intense4 ,this statement has passed from one geological work to another2 nevertheless1 the protection of the whole reef undoubtedly is due to those kinds of coral1 which cannot exist in the situations thought by these naturalists to be most favourable to them4 ,for should the outer and living margin perish1 of any one of the many low coral-islands1 round which a line of great breakers is incessantly foaming1 the whole1 it is scarcely possible to doubt1 would be washed away and destroyed1 in less than half a century4 ,but the vital energies of the corals conquer the mechanical power of the waves2 and the large fragments of reef torn up by every storm1 are replaced by the slow but steady growth of the innumerable polypifers1 which form the living zone on its outer edge4 #f ,ehrenberg1 8ber die ,natr und ,bildung der ,corallen ,bnke im rothen ,meere10 page #di4 #g ,in the ,west ,indies1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,bird ,allen1 ,r4,n41 it is the common belief of those1 who are best acquainted with the reefs1 that the coral flourishes most1 where freely exposed to the swell of the open sea4 #h 8,annales des ,sciences ,naturelles10 tome vi41 pages #bgf1 #bgh4--8,l o les ondes sont agites1 les ,lytophyts ne peuvent travailler1 parce qu'elles dtruiraient leurs fragiles difices10 c4 ,from these facts1 it is certain1 that the strongest and most massive corals flourish1 where most exposed4 ,the less perfect state of the reef of most atolls on the leeward and less exposed side1 compared with its state to windward2 and the analogous case of the greater number of breaches on the near sides of those atolls in the ,maldiva ,archipelago1 which afford some protection to each other1 are obviously explained by this circumstance4 ,if the question had been1 under what conditions the greater number of species of coral1 not regarding their bulk and strength1 were developed1 ,i should answer1--probably in the situations described by ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard1 where the water is tranquil and the heat intense4 ,the total number of species of coral in the circumtropical seas must be very great3 in the ,red ,sea alone1 #abj kinds1 according to ,ehrenberg1#i have been observed4 #i ,ehrenberg1 8ber die ,natr10 etc41 etc41 page #df4 ,the same author has observed that the recoil of the sea from a steep shore is injurious to the growth of coral1 although waves breaking over a bank are not so4 ,ehrenberg also states1 that where there is much sediment1 placed so as to be liable to be moved by the waves there is little or no coral2 and a collection of living specimens placed by him on a sandy shore died in the course of a few days4#aj ,an experiment1 however1 will presently be related in which some large masses of living coral increased rapidly in size1 after having been secured by stakes on a sandbank4 ,that loose sediment should be injurious to the living polypifers1 appears1 at first sight1 probable2 and accordingly1 in sounding off ,keeling atoll1 and 7as will hereafter be shown7 off ,mauritius1 the arming of the lead invariably came up clean1 where the coral was growing vigorously4 ,this same circumstance has probably given rise to a strange belief1 which1 according to ,captain ,owen1#aa is general amongst the inhabitants of the ,maldiva atolls1 namely that corals have roots1 and therefore that if merely broken down to the surface1 they grow up again2 but1 if rooted out1 they are permanently destroyed4 ,by this means the inhabitants keep their harbours clear2 and thus the ,french ,governor of ,st4 ,mary's in ,madagascar1 8cleared out and made a beautiful little port at that place40 ,for it is probable that sand would accumulate in the hollows formed by tearing out the corals1 but not on the broken and projecting stumps1 and therefore1 in the former case1 the fresh growth of the coral might be thus prevented4 #aj ,ibid41 page #di4 #aa ,captain ,owen on the ,geography of the ,maldiva ,islands1 8,geographical ,journal01 volume ii41 page #hh4 ,in the last chapter ,i remarked that fringing-reefs are almost universally breached1 where streams enter the sea4#ab ,most authors have attributed this fact to the injurious effects of the fresh water1 even where it enters the sea only in small quantity1 and during a part of the year4 ,no doubt brackish water would prevent or retard the growth of coral2 but ,i believe that the mud and sand which is deposited1 even by rivulets when flooded1 is a much more efficient check4 ,the reef on each side of the channel leading into ,port ,louis at ,mauritius1 ends abruptly in a wall1 at the foot of which ,i sounded and found a bed of thick mud4 ,this steepness of the sides appears to be a general character in such breaches4 ,cook1#ac speaking of one at ,raiatea1 says1 8like all the rest1 it is very steep on both sides40 ,now1 if it were the fresh water mingling with the salt which prevented the growth of coral1 the reef certainly would not terminate abruptly1 but as the polypifers nearest the impure stream would grow less vigorously than those farther off1 so would the reef gradually thin away4 ,on the other hand1 the sediment brought down from the land would only prevent the growth of the coral in the line of its deposition1 but would not check it on the side1 so that the reefs might increase till they overhung the bed of the channel4 ,the breaches are much fewer in number1 and front only the larger valleys in reefs of the encircling barrier class4 ,they probably are kept open in the same manner as those into the lagoon of an atoll1 namely1 by the force of the currents and the drifting outwards of fine sediment4 ,their position in front of valleys1 although often separated from the land by deep water lagoon-channels1 which it might be thought would entirely remove the injurious effects both of the fresh water and the sediment1 will receive a simple explanation when we discuss the origin of barrier-reefs4 #ab ,lieutenant ,wellstead and others have remarked that this is the case in the ,red ,sea2 ,dr4 ,rppell 78,reise in ,abyss40 ,band4 i41 page #adb7 says that there are pear-shaped harbours in the upraised coral-coast1 into which periodical streams enter4 ,from this circumstance1 ,i presume1 we must infer that before the upheaval of the strata now forming the coast-land1 fresh water and sediment entered the sea at these points2 and the coral being thus prevented growing1 the pear-shaped harbours were produced4 #ac ,cook's 8,first ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #bga 7,hawkesworth's edition747 ,in the vegetable kingdom every different station has its peculiar group of plants1 and similar relations appear to prevail with corals4 ,we have already described the great difference between the corals within the lagoon of an atoll and those on its outer margin4 ,the corals1 also1 on the margin of ,keeling ,island occurred in zones2 thus the ,porites and ,millepora complanata grow to a large size only where they are washed by a heavy sea1 and are killed by a short exposure to the air2 whereas1 three species of ,nullipora also live amidst the breakers1 but are able to survive uncovered for a part of each tide2 at greater depths1 a strong ,madrepora and ,millepora alcicornis are the commonest kinds1 the former appearing to be confined to this part1 beneath the zone of massive corals1 minute encrusting corallines and other organic bodies live4 ,if we compare the external margin of the reef at ,keeling atoll with that on the leeward side of ,mauritius1 which are very differently circumstanced1 we shall find a corresponding difference in the appearance of the corals4 ,at the latter place1 the genus ,madrepora is preponderant over every other kind1 and beneath the zone of massive corals there are large beds of ,seriatopora4 ,there is also a marked difference1 according to ,captain ,moresby1#ad between the great branching corals of the ,red ,sea1 and those on the reefs of the ,maldiva atolls4 #ad ,captain ,moresby on the ,northern ,maldiva atolls1 8,geographical ,journal01 volume v41 page #dja4 ,these facts1 which in themselves are deserving of notice1 bear1 perhaps1 not very remotely1 on a remarkable circumstance which has been pointed out to me by ,captain ,moresby1 namely1 that with very few exceptions1 none of the coral-knolls within the lagoons of ,peros ,banhos1 ,diego ,garcia1 and the ,great ,chagos ,bank 7all situated in the ,chagos group71 rise to the surface of the water2 whereas all those1 with equally few exceptions1 within ,solomon and ,egmont atolls in the same group1 and likewise within the large southern ,maldiva atolls1 reach the surface4 ,i make these statements1 after having examined the charts of each atoll4 ,in the lagoon of ,peros ,banhos1 which is nearly twenty miles across1 there is only one single reef which rises to the surface2 in ,diego ,garcia there are seven1 but several of these lie close to the margin of the lagoon1 and need scarcely have been reckoned2 in the ,great ,chagos ,bank there is not one4 ,on the other hand1 in the lagoons of some of the great southern ,maldiva atolls1 although thickly studded with reefs1 every one without exception rises to the surface2 and on an average there are less than two submerged reefs in each atoll2 in the northern atolls1 however1 the submerged lagoon-reefs are not quite so rare4 ,the submerged reefs in the ,chagos atolls generally have from one to seven fathoms water on them1 but some have from seven to ten4 ,most of them are small with very steep sides2#ae at ,peros ,banhos they rise from a depth of about thirty fathoms1 and some of them in the ,great ,chagos ,bank from above forty fathoms2 they are covered1 ,captain ,moresby informs me1 with living and healthy coral1 two and three feet high1 consisting of several species4 ,why then have not these lagoon-reefs reached the surface1 like the innumerable ones in the atolls above named8 ,if we attempt to assign any difference in their external conditions1 as the cause of this diversity1 we are at once baffled4 ,the lagoon of ,diego ,garcia is not deep1 and is almost wholly surrounded by its reef2 ,peros ,banhos is very deep1 much larger1 with many wide passages communicating with the open sea4 ,on the other hand1 of those atolls1 in which all or nearly all the lagoon-reefs have reached the surface1 some are small1 others large1 some shallow1 others deep1 some well-enclosed1 and others open4 #ae ,some of these statements were not communicated to me verbally by ,captain ,moresby1 but are taken from the ,,ms4 account before alluded to1 of the ,chagos ,group4 ,captain ,moresby informs me that he has seen a ,french chart of ,diego ,garcia made eighty years before his survey1 and apparently very accurate2 and from it he infers1 that during this interval there has not been the smallest change in the depth on any of the knolls within the lagoon4 ,it is also known that during the last fifty-one years1 the eastern channel into the lagoon has neither become narrower1 nor decreased in depth2 and as there are numerous small knolls of living coral within it1 some change might have been anticipated4 ,moreover1 as the whole reef round the lagoon of this atoll has been converted into land--an unparalleled case1 ,i believe1 in an atoll of such large size1--and as the strip of land is for considerable spaces more than half a mile wide--also a very unusual circumstance1--we have the best possible evidence1 that ,diego ,garcia has remained at its present level for a very long period4 ,with this fact1 and with the knowledge that no sensible change has taken place during eighty years in the coral-knolls1 and considering that every single reef has reached the surface in other atolls1 which do not present the smallest appearance of being older than ,diego ,garcia and ,peros ,banhos1 and which are placed under the same external conditions with them1 one is led to conclude that these submerged reefs1 although covered with luxuriant coral1 have no tendency to grow upwards1 and that they would remain at their present levels for an almost indefinite period4 ,from the number of these knolls1 from their position1 size1 and form1 many of them being only one or two hundred yards across1 with a rounded outline1 and precipitous sides1--it is indisputable that they have been formed by the growth of coral2 and this makes the case much more remarkable4 ,in ,peros ,banhos and in the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 some of these almost columnar masses are #bjj feet high1 and their summits lie only from two to eight fathoms beneath the surface2 therefore1 a small proportional amount more of growth would cause them to attain the surface1 like those numerous knolls1 which rise from an equally great depth within the ,maldiva atolls4 ,we can hardly suppose that time has been wanting for the upward growth of the coral1 whilst in ,diego ,garcia1 the broad annular strip of land1 formed by the continued accumulation of detritus1 shows how long this atoll has remained at its present level4 ,we must look to some other cause than the rate of growth2 and ,i suspect it will be found in the reefs being formed of different species of corals1 adapted to live at different depths4 ,the ,great ,chagos ,bank is situated in the centre of the ,chagos ,group1 and the ,pitt and ,speaker ,banks at its two extreme points4 ,these banks resemble atolls1 except in their external rim being about eight fathoms submerged1 and in being formed of dead rock1 with very little living coral on it3 a portion nine miles long of the annular reef of ,peros ,banhos atoll is in the same condition4 ,these facts1 as will hereafter be shown1 render it very probable that the whole group at some former period subsided seven or eight fathoms2 and that the coral perished on the outer margin of those atolls which are now submerged1 but that it continued alive1 and grew up to the surface on those which are now perfect4 ,if these atolls did subside1 and if from the suddenness of the movement or from any other cause1 those corals which are better adapted to live at a certain depth than at the surface1 once got possession of the knolls1 supplanting the former occupants1 they would exert little or no tendency to grow upwards4 ,to illustrate this1 ,i may observe1 that if the corals of the upper zone on the outer edge of ,keeling atoll were to perish1 it is improbable that those of the lower zone would grow to the surface1 and thus become exposed to conditions for which they do not appear to be adapted4 ,the conjecture1 that the corals on the submerged knolls within the ,chagos atolls have analogous habits with those of the lower zone outside ,keeling atoll1 receives some support from a remark by ,captain ,moresby1 namely1 that they have a different appearance from those on the reefs in the ,maldiva atolls1 which1 as we have seen1 all rise to the surface3 he compares the kind of difference to that of the vegetation under different climates4 ,i have entered at considerable length into this case1 although unable to throw much light on it1 in order to show that an equal tendency to upward growth ought not to be attributed to all coral-reefs1--to those situated at different depths1--to those forming the ring of an atoll or those on the knolls within a lagoon1--to those in one area and those in another4 ,the inference1 therefore1 that one reef could not grow up to the surface within a given time1 because another1 not known to be covered with the same species of corals1 and not known to be placed under conditions exactly the same1 has not within the same time reached the surface1 is unsound4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,on ,,the ,,rate ,,of ,,growth ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs4 ,the remark made at the close of the last section1 naturally leads to this division of our subject1 which has not1 ,i think1 hitherto been considered under a right point of view4 ,ehrenberg#af has stated1 that in the ,red ,sea1 the corals only coat other rocks in a layer from one to two feet in thickness1 or at most to a fathom and a half2 and he disbelieves that1 in any case1 they form1 by their own proper growth1 great masses1 stratum over stratum4 ,a nearly similar observation has been made by ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard1#ag with respect to the thickness of some upraised beds of coral1 which they examined at ,timor and some other places4 ,ehrenberg#ah saw certain large massive corals in the ,red ,sea1 which he imagines to be of such vast antiquity1 that they might have been beheld by ,pharaoh2 and according to ,mr4 ,lyell#ai there are certain corals at ,bermuda1 which are known by tradition1 to have been living for centuries4 ,to show how slowly coral-reefs grow upwards1 ,captain ,beechey#bj has adduced the case of the ,dolphin ,reef off ,tahiti1 which has remained at the same depth beneath the surface1 namely about two fathoms and a half1 for a period of sixty-seven years4 ,there are reefs in the ,red ,sea1 which certainly do not appear#ba to have increased in dimensions during the last half-century1 and from the comparison of old charts with recent surveys1 probably not during the last two hundred years4 ,these1 and other similar facts1 have so strongly impressed many with the belief of the extreme slowness of the growth of corals1 that they have even doubted the possibility of islands in the great oceans having been formed by their agency4 ,others1 again1 who have not been overwhelmed by this difficulty1 have admitted that it would require thousands1 and tens of thousands of years1 to form a mass1 even of inconsiderable thickness2 but the subject has not1 ,i believe1 been viewed in the proper light4 #af ,ehrenberg1 as before cited1 pages #ci1 #df1 and #ej4 #ag 8,annales des ,sciences ,nat40 tom4 vi41 page #bh4 #ah ,ehrenberg1 ut sup41 page #db4 #ai ,lyell's 8,principles of ,geology10 book iii41 chapter xviii4 #bj ,beechey's 8,voyage to the ,pacific10 chapter viii4 #ba ,ehrenberg1 ut sup41 page #dc4 ,that masses of considerable thickness have been formed by the growth of coral1 may be inferred with certainty from the following facts4 ,in the deep lagoons of ,peros ,banhos and of the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 there are1 as already described1 small steep-sided knolls covered with living coral4 ,there are similar knolls in the southern ,maldiva atolls1 some of which1 as ,captain ,moresby assures me1 are less than a hundred yards in diameter1 and rise to the surface from a depth of between two hundred and fifty and three hundred feet4 ,considering their number1 form1 and position1 it would be preposterous to suppose that they are based on pinnacles of any rock1 not of coral formation2 or that sediment could have been heaped up into such small and steep isolated cones4 ,as no kind of living coral grows above the height of a few feet1 we are compelled to suppose that these knolls have been formed by the successive growth and death of many individuals1--first one being broken off or killed by some accident1 and then another1 and one set of species being replaced by another set with different habits1 as the reef rose nearer the surface1 or as other changes supervened4 ,the spaces between the corals would become filled up with fragments and sand1 and such matter would probably soon be consolidated1 for we learn from ,lieutenant ,nelson1#bb that at ,bermuda a process of this kind takes place beneath water1 without the aid of evaporation4 ,in reefs1 also1 of the barrier class1 we may feel sure1 as ,i have shown1 that masses of great thickness have been formed by the growth of the coral2 in the case of ,vanikoro1 judging only from the depth of the moat between the land and the reef1 the wall of coral-rock must be at least three hundred feet in vertical thickness4 #bb 8,geological ,transactions10 volume v41 page #aac4 ,it is unfortunate that the upraised coral-islands in the ,pacific have not been examined by a geologist4 ,the cliffs of ,elizabeth ,island1 in the ,low ,archipelago1 are eighty feet high1 and appear1 from ,captain ,beechey's description1 to consist of a homogeneous coral-rock4 ,from the isolated position of this island1 we may safely infer that it is an upraised atoll1 and therefore that it has been formed by masses of coral1 grown together4 ,savage ,island seems1 from the description of the younger ,forster1#bc to have a similar structure1 and its shores are about forty feet high3 some of the ,cook ,islands also appear#bd to be similarly composed4 ,captain ,belcher1 ,r4,n41 in a letter which ,captain ,beaufort showed me at the admiralty1 speaking of ,bow atoll1 says1 8,i have succeeded in boring forty-five feet through coral-sand1 when the auger became jammed by the falling in of the surrounding creamy matter40 ,on one of the ,maldiva atolls1 ,captain ,moresby bored to a depth of twenty-six feet1 when his auger also broke3 he has had the kindness to give me the matter brought up2 it is perfectly white1 and like finely triturated coral-rock4 #bc ,forster's 8,voyage round the ,world with ,cook10 volume ii41 pages #afc1 #afg4 #bd ,williams's 8,narrative of ,missionary ,enterprise10 page #cj4 ,in my description of ,keeling atoll1 ,i have given some facts1 which show that the reef probably has grown outwards2 and ,i have found1 just within the outer margin1 the great mounds of ,porites and of ,millepora1 with their summits lately killed1 and their sides subsequently thickened by the growth of the coral3 a layer1 also1 of ,nullipora had already coated the dead surface4 ,as the external slope of the reef is the same round the whole of this atoll1 and round many other atolls1 the angle of inclination must result from an adaption between the growing powers of the coral1 and the force of the breakers1 and their action on the loose sediment4 ,the reef1 therefore1 could not increase outwards1 without a nearly equal addition to every part of the slope1 so that the original inclination might be preserved1 and this would require a large amount of sediment1 all derived from the wear of corals and shells1 to be added to the lower part4 ,moreover1 at ,keeling atoll1 and probably in many other cases1 the different kinds of corals would have to encroach on each other2 thus the ,nullipor cannot increase outwards without encroaching on the ,porites and ,millepora complanata1 as is now taking place2 nor these latter without encroaching on the strongly branched ,madreporet1 the ,millepora alcicornis1 and some ,astras2 nor these again without a foundation being formed for them within the requisite depth1 by the accumulation of sediment4 ,how slow1 then1 must be the ordinary lateral or outward growth of such reefs4 ,but off ,christmas atoll1 where the sea is much more shallow than is usual1 we have good reason to believe that1 within a period not very remote1 the reef has increased considerably in width4 ,the land has the extraordinary breadth of three miles2 it consists of parallel ridges of shells and broken corals1 which furnish 8an incontestable proof10 as observed by ,cook1#be 8that the island has been produced by accessions from the sea1 and is in a state of increase40 ,the land is fronted by a coral-reef1 and from the manner in which islets are known to be formed1 we may feel confident that the reef was not three miles wide1 when the first1 or most backward ridge1 was thrown up2 and1 therefore1 we must conclude that the reef has grown outwards during the accumulation of the successive ridges4 ,here then1 a wall of coral-rock of very considerable breadth has been formed by the outward growth of the living margin1 within a period during which ridges of shells and corals1 lying on the bare surface1 have not decayed4 ,there can be little doubt1 from the account given by ,captain ,beechey1 that ,matilda atoll1 in the ,low ,archipelago1 has been converted in the space of thirty-four years1 from being1 as described by the crew of a wrecked whaling vessel1 a 8reef of rocks0 into a lagoon-island1 fourteen miles in length1 with 8one of its sides covered nearly the whole way with high trees40#bf ,the islets1 also1 on ,keeling atoll1 it has been shown1 have increased in length1 and since the construction of an old chart1 several of them have become united into one long islet2 but in this case1 and in that of ,matilda atoll1 we have no proof1 and can only infer as probable1 that the reef1 that is the foundation of the islets1 has increased as well as the islets themselves4 #be ,cook's 8,third ,voyage10 book ,,iii41 chapter x4 #bf ,beechey's 8,voyage to the ,pacific10 chapter vii4 and viii4 ,after these considerations1 ,i attach little importance1 as indicating the ordinary and still less the possible rate of outward growth of coral-reefs1 to the fact that certain reefs in the ,red ,sea have not increased during a long interval of time2 or to other such cases1 as that of ,ouluthy atoll in the ,caroline group1 where every islet1 described a thousand years before by ,cantova was found in the same state by ,lutk1#bg--without it could be shown that1 in these cases1 the conditions were favourable to the vigorous and unopposed growth of the corals living in the different zones of depth1 and that a proper basis for the extent of the reef was present4 ,the former conditions must depend on many contingencies1 and in the deep oceans where coral formations most abound1 a basis within the requisite depth can rarely be present4 #bg ,f4 ,lutk's 8,voyage autour du ,monde40 ,in the group ,elato1 however1 it appears that what is now the islet ,falipi1 is called in ,cantova's ,chart1 the ,banc de ,falipi4 ,it is not stated whether this has been caused by the growth of coral1 or by the accumulation of sand4 ,nor do ,i attach any importance to the fact of certain submerged reefs1 as those off ,tahiti1 or those within ,diego ,garcia not now being nearer the surface than they were many years ago1 as an indication of the rate under favourable circumstances of the upward growth of reefs2 after it has been shown1 that all the reefs have grown to the surface in some of the ,chagos atolls1 but that in neighbouring atolls which appear to be of equal antiquity and to be exposed to the same external conditions1 every reef remains submerged2 for we are almost driven to attribute this to a difference1 not in the rate of growth1 but in the habits of the corals in the two cases4 ,in an old-standing reef1 the corals1 which are so different in kind on different parts of it1 are probably all adapted to the stations they occupy1 and hold their places1 like other organic beings1 by a struggle one with another1 and with external nature2 hence we may infer that their growth would generally be slow1 except under peculiarly favourable circumstances4 ,almost the only natural condition1 allowing a quick upward growth of the whole surface of a reef1 would be a slow subsidence of the area in which it stood2 if1 for instance1 ,keeling atoll were to subside two or three feet1 can we doubt that the projecting margin of live coral1 about half an inch in thickness1 which surrounds the dead upper surfaces of the mounds of ,porites1 would in this case form a concentric layer over them1 and the reef thus increase upwards1 instead of1 as at present1 outwards8 ,the ,nullipor are now encroaching on the ,porites and ,millepora1 but in this case might we not confidently expect that the latter would1 in their turn1 encroach on the ,nullipor8 ,after a subsidence of this kind1 the sea would gain on the islets1 and the great fields of dead but upright corals in the lagoon1 would be covered by a sheet of clear water2 and might we not then expect that these reefs would rise to the surface1 as they anciently did when the lagoon was less confined by islets1 and as they did within a period of ten years in the schooner-channel1 cut by the inhabitants8 ,in one of the ,maldiva atolls1 a reef1 which within a very few years existed as an islet bearing cocoa-nut trees1 was found by ,lieutenant ,prentice 8entirely covered with live coral and ,madrepore40 ,the natives believe that the islet was washed away by a change in the currents1 but if1 instead of this1 it had quietly subsided1 surely every part of the island which offered a solid foundation1 would in a like manner have become coated with living coral4 ,through steps such as these1 any thickness of rock1 composed of a singular intermixture of various kinds of corals1 shells1 and calcareous sediment1 might be formed2 but without subsidence1 the thickness would necessarily be determined by the depth at which the reef-building polypifers can exist4 ,if it be asked1 at what rate in years ,i suppose a reef of coral favourably circumstanced could grow up from a given depth2 ,i should answer1 that we have no precise evidence on this point1 and comparatively little concern with it4 ,we see1 in innumerable points over wide areas1 that the rate has been sufficient1 either to bring up the reefs from various depths to the surface1 or1 as is more probable1 to keep them at the surface1 during progressive subsidences2 and this is a much more important standard of comparison than any cycle of years4 ,it may1 however1 be inferred from the following facts1 that the rate in years under favourable circumstances would be very far from slow4 ,dr4 ,allan1 of ,forres1 has1 in his ,,ms4 ,thesis deposited in the library of the ,edinburgh ,university 7extracts from which ,i owe to the kindness of ,dr4 ,malcolmson71 the following account of some experiments1 which he tried during his travels in the years #ahcj to #ahcb on the east coast of ,madagascar4 8,to ascertain the rise and progress of the coral-family1 and fix the number of species met with at ,foul ,point 7latitude #ag #dj7 twenty species of coral were taken off the reef and planted apart on a sand-bank three feet deep at low water4 ,each portion weighed ten pounds1 and was kept in its place by stakes4 ,similar quantities were placed in a clump and secured as the rest4 ,this was done in ,december #ahcj4 ,in ,july following1 each detached mass was nearly level with the sea at low water1 quite immovable1 and several feet long1 stretching as the parent reef1 with the coast current from north to south4 ,the masses accumulated in a clump were found equally increased1 but some of the species in such unequal ratios1 as to be growing over each other40 ,the loss of ,dr4 ,allan's magnificent collection by shipwreck1 unfortunately prevents its being known to what genera these corals belonged2 but from the numbers experimented on1 it is certain that all the more conspicuous kinds must have been included4 ,dr4 ,allan informs me1 in a letter1 that he believes it was a ,madrepora1 which grew most vigorously4 ,one may be permitted to suspect that the level of the sea might possibly have been somewhat different at the two stated periods2 nevertheless1 it is quite evident that the growth of the ten-pound masses1 during the six or seven months1 at the end of which they were found immovably fixed#bh and several feet in length1 must have been very great4 ,the fact of the different kinds of coral1 when placed in one clump1 having increased in extremely unequal ratios1 is very interesting1 as it shows the manner in which a reef1 supporting many species of coral1 would probably be affected by a change in the external conditions favouring one kind more than another4 ,the growth of the masses of coral in ,n4 and ,s4 lines parallel to the prevailing currents1 whether due to the drifting of sediment or to the simple movement of the water1 is1 also1 a very interesting circumstance4 #bh ,it is stated by ,de la ,beche 78,geological ,manual10 page #adc71 on the authority of ,mr4 ,lloyd1 who surveyed the ,isthmus of ,panama1 that some specimens of ,polypifers1 placed by him in a sheltered pool of water1 were found in the course of a few days firmly fixed by the secretion of a stony matter1 to the bottom4 ,a fact1 communicated to me by ,lieutenant ,wellstead1 ,i4,n41 in some degree corroborates the result of ,dr4 ,allan's experiments3 it is1 that in the ,persian ,gulf a ship had her copper bottom encrusted in the course of twenty months with a layer of coral1 two feet in thickness1 which it required great force to remove1 when the vessel was docked3 it was not ascertained to what order this coral belonged4 ,the case of the schooner-channel choked up with coral in an interval of less than ten years1 in the lagoon of ,keeling atoll1 should be here borne in mind4 ,we may also infer1 from the trouble which the inhabitants of the ,maldiva atolls take to root out1 as they express it1 the coral-knolls from their harbours1 that their growth can hardly be very slow4#bi #bi ,mr4 ,stutchbury 78,west of ,england ,journal01 ,no4 ,i41 page #ej47 has described a specimen of ,agaricia1 8weighing #b lbs4 #i oz41 which surrounds a species of oyster1 whose age could not be more than two years1 and yet is completely enveloped by this dense coral40 ,i presume that the oyster was living when the specimen was procured2 otherwise the fact tells nothing4 ,mr4 ,stutchbury also mentions an anchor1 which had become entirely encrusted with coral in fifty years2 other cases1 however1 are recorded of anchors which have long remained amidst coral-reefs without having become coated4 ,the anchor of the ,beagle1 in #ahcb1 after having been down exactly one month at ,rio de ,janeiro1 was so thickly coated by two species of ,tubularia1 that large spaces of the iron were entirely concealed2 the tufts of this horny zoophyte were between two and three inches in length4 ,it has been attempted to compute1 but ,i believe erroneously1 the rate of growth of a reef1 from the fact mentioned by ,captain ,beechey1 of the ,chama gigas being embedded in coral-rock4 ,but it should be remembered1 that some species of this genus invariably live1 both whilst young and old1 in cavities1 which the animal has the power of enlarging with its growth4 ,i saw many of these shells thus embedded in the outer 8flat0 of ,keeling atoll1 which is composed of dead rock2 and therefore the cavities in this case had no relation whatever with the growth of coral4 ,m4 ,lesson1 also1 speaking of this shell 7,partie ,zoolog4 8,voyage de la #8,coquille'071 has remarked1 8que constamment ses valves taient engags compltement dans la masse des ,madrepores40 ,from the facts given in this section1 it may be concluded1 first1 that considerable thicknesses of rock have certainly been formed within the present geological area by the growth of coral and the accumulation of its detritus2 and1 secondly1 that the increase of individual corals and of reefs1 both outwards or horizontally and upwards or vertically1 under the peculiar conditions favourable to such increase1 is not slow1 when referred either to the standard of the average oscillations of level in the earth's crust1 or to the more precise but less important one of a cycle of years4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,on ,,the ,,depths ,,at ,,which ,,reef-,,building ,,polypifers ,,can ,,live4 ,i have already described in detail1 which might have appeared trivial1 the nature of the bottom of the sea immediately surrounding ,keeling atoll2 and ,i will now describe with almost equal care the soundings off the fringing-reefs of ,mauritius4 ,i have preferred this arrangement1 for the sake of grouping together facts of a similar nature4 ,i sounded with the wide bell-shaped lead which ,captain ,fitzroy used at ,keeling ,island1 but my examination of the bottom was confined to a few miles of coast 7between ,port ,louis and ,tomb ,bay7 on the leeward side of the island4 ,the edge of the reef is formed of great shapeless masses of branching ,madrepores1 which chiefly consist of two species1--apparently ,m4 corymbosa and pocillifera1-- mingled with a few other kinds of coral4 ,these masses are separated from each other by the most irregular gullies and cavities1 into which the lead sinks many feet4 ,outside this irregular border of ,madrepores1 the water deepens gradually to twenty fathoms1 which depth generally is found at the distance of from half to three-quarters of a mile from the reef4 ,a little further out the depth is thirty fathoms1 and thence the bank slopes rapidly into the depths of the ocean4 ,this inclination is very gentle compared with that outside ,keeling and other atolls1 but compared with most coasts it is steep4 ,the water was so clear outside the reef1 that ,i could distinguish every object forming the rugged bottom4 ,in this part1 and to a depth of eight fathoms1 ,i sounded repeatedly1 and at each cast pounded the bottom with the broad lead1 nevertheless the arming invariably came up perfectly clean1 but deeply indented4 ,from eight to fifteen fathoms a little calcareous sand was occasionally brought up1 but more frequently the arming was simply indented4 ,in all this space the two ,madrepores above mentioned1 and two species of ,astra1 with rather large#cj stars1 seemed the commonest kinds2 and it must be noticed that twice at the depth of fifteen fathoms1 the arming was marked with a clean impression of an ,astra4 ,besides these lithophytes1 some fragments of the ,millepora alcicornis1 which occurs in the same relative position at ,keeling ,island1 were brought up2 and in the deeper parts there were large beds of a ,seriatopora1 different from ,s4 subulata1 but closely allied to it4 ,on the beach within the reef1 the rolled fragments consisted chiefly of the corals just mentioned1 and of a massive ,porites1 like that at ,keeling atoll1 of a ,meandrina1 ,pocillopora verrucosa1 and of numerous fragments of ,nullipora4 ,from fifteen to twenty fathoms the bottom was1 with few exceptions1 either formed of sand1 or thickly covered with ,seriatopora3 this delicate coral seems to form at these depths extensive beds unmingled with any other kind4 ,at twenty fathoms1 one sounding brought up a fragment of ,madrepora apparently ,m4 pocillifera1 and ,i believe it is the same species 7for ,i neglected to bring specimens from both stations7 which mainly forms the upper margin of the reef2 if so1 it grows in depths varying from #j to #bj fathoms4 ,between #bj and #bc fathoms ,i obtained several soundings1 and they all showed a sandy bottom1 with one exception at #cj fathoms1 when the arming came up scooped out1 as if by the margin of a large ,caryophyllia4 ,beyond #cc fathoms ,i sounded only once2 and from #hf fathoms1 at the distance of one mile and a third from the edge of the reef1 the arming brought up calcareous sand with a pebble of volcanic rock4 ,the circumstance of the arming having invariably come up quite clean1 when sounding within a certain number of fathoms off the reefs of ,mauritius and ,keeling atoll 7eight fathoms in the former case1 and twelve in the latter7 and of its having always come up 7with one exception7 smoothed and covered with sand1 when the depth exceeded twenty fathoms1 probably indicates a criterion1 by which the limits of the vigorous growth of coral might in all cases be readily ascertained4 ,i do not1 however1 suppose that if a vast number of soundings were obtained round these islands1 the limit above assigned would be found never to vary1 but ,i conceive the facts are sufficient to show1 that the exceptions would be few4 ,the circumstance of a gradual change1 in the two cases1 from a field of clean coral to a smooth sandy bottom1 is far more important in indicating the depth at which the larger kinds of coral flourish than almost any number of separate observations on the depth1 at which certain species have been dredged up4 ,for we can understand the gradation1 only as a prolonged struggle against unfavourable conditions4 ,if a person were to find the soil clothed with turf on the banks of a stream of water1 but on going to some distance on one side of it1 he observed the blades of grass growing thinner and thinner1 with intervening patches of sand1 until he entered a desert of sand1 he would safely conclude1 especially if changes of the same kind were noticed in other places1 that the presence of the water was absolutely necessary to the formation of a thick bed of turf3 so may we conclude1 with the same feeling of certainty1 that thick beds of coral are formed only at small depths beneath the surface of the sea4 #cj ,since the preceding pages were printed off1 ,i have received from ,mr4 ,lyell a very interesting pamphlet1 entitled 8,remarks upon ,coral ,formations10 etc41 by ,j4 ,couthouy1 ,boston1 ,united ,states1 #ahdb4 ,there is a statement 7page #f71 on the authority of the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams1 corroborating the remarks made by ,ehrenberg and ,lyell 7page #ga of this volume71 on the antiquity of certain individual corals in the ,red ,sea and at ,bermuda2 namely1 that at ,upolu1 one of the ,navigator ,islands1 8particular clumps of coral are known to the fishermen by name1 derived from either some particular configuration or tradition attached to them1 and handed down from time immemorial40 ,with respect to the thickness of masses of coral-rock1 it clearly appears1 from the descriptions given by ,mr4 ,couthouy 7pages #cd1 #eh7 that ,mangaia and ,aurora ,islands are upraised atolls1 composed of coral rock3 the level summit of the former is about three hundred feet1 and that of ,aurora ,island is two hundred feet above the sea-level4 ,i have endeavoured to collect every fact1 which might either invalidate or corroborate this conclusion4 ,captain ,moresby1 whose opportunities for observation during his survey of the ,maldiva and ,chagos ,archipelagoes have been unrivalled1 informs me1 that the upper part or zone of the steep-sided reefs1 on the inner and outer coasts of the atolls in both groups1 invariably consists of coral1 and the lower parts of sand4 ,at seven or eight fathoms depth1 the bottom is formed1 as could be seen through the clear water1 of great living masses of coral1 which at about ten fathoms generally stand some way apart from each other1 with patches of white sand between them1 and at a little greater depth these patches become united into a smooth steep slope1 without any coral4 ,captain ,moresby1 also1 informs me in support of his statement1 that he found only decayed coral on the ,padua ,bank 7northern part of the ,laccadive group7 which has an average depth between twenty-five and thirty-five fathoms1 but that on some other banks in the same group with only ten or twelve fathoms water on them 7for instance1 the ,tillacapeni bank71 the coral was living4 ,with regard to the coral-reefs in the ,red ,sea1 ,ehrenberg has the following passage3--8,the living corals do not descend there into great depths4 ,on the edges of islets and near reefs1 where the depth was small1 very many lived2 but we found no more even at six fathoms4 ,the pearl-fishers at ,yemen and ,massaua asserted that there was no coral near the pearl-banks at nine fathoms depth1 but only sand4 ,we were not able to institute any more special researches40#ca ,i am1 however1 assured both by ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,wellstead1 that in the more northern parts of the ,red ,sea1 there are extensive beds of living coral at a depth of twenty-five fathoms1 in which the anchors of their vessels were frequently entangled4 ,captain ,moresby attributes the less depth1 at which the corals are able to live in the places mentioned by ,ehrenberg1 to the greater quantity of sediment there2 and the situations1 where they were flourishing at the depth of twenty-five fathoms1 were protected1 and the water was extraordinarily limpid4 ,on the leeward side of ,mauritius where ,i found the coral growing at a somewhat greater depth than at ,keeling atoll1 the sea1 owing apparently to its tranquil state1 was likewise very clear4 ,within the lagoons of some of the ,marshall atolls1 where the water can be but little agitated1 there are1 according to ,kotzebue1 living beds of coral in twenty-five fathoms4 ,from these facts1 and considering the manner in which the beds of clean coral off ,mauritius1 ,keeling ,island1 the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls1 graduated into a sandy slope1 it appears very probable that the depth1 at which reef-building polypifers can exist1 is partly determined by the extent of inclined surface1 which the currents of the sea and the recoiling waves have the power to keep free from sediment4 #ca ,ehrenberg1 8ber die ,natr10 c41 page #ej4 ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard#cb believe that the growth of coral is confined within very limited depths2 and they state that they never found any fragment of an ,astra 7the genus they consider most efficient in forming reefs7 at a depth above twenty-five or thirty feet4 ,but we have seen that in several places the bottom of the sea is paved with massive corals at more than twice this depth2 and at fifteen fathoms 7or twice this depth7 off the reefs of ,mauritius1 the arming was marked with the distinct impression of a living ,astra4 ,millepora alcicornis lives in from #j to #ab fathoms1 and the genera ,madrepora and ,seriatopora from #j to #bj fathoms4 ,captain ,moresby has given me a specimen of ,sideropora scabra 7,porites of ,lamarck7 brought up alive from #ag fathoms4 ,mr4 ,couthouy#cc states that he has dredged up on the ,bahama banks considerable masses of ,meandrina from #af fathoms1 and he has seen this coral growing in #bj fathoms4 ,a ,caryophyllia1 half an inch in diameter1 was dredged up alive from #hj fathoms off ,juan ,fernandez 7latitude #cc ,s47 by ,captain ,p4,p4 ,king3#cd this is the most remarkable fact with which ,i am acquainted1 showing the depth at which a genus of corals often found on reefs1 can exist4#ce ,we ought1 however1 to feel less surprise at this fact1 as ,caryophyllia alone of the lamelliform genera1 ranges far beyond the tropics2 it is found in ,zetland 7,fleming's 8,british ,animals10 genus ,caryophyllia47 in ,latitude #fj ,n4 in deep water1 and ,i procured a small species from ,tierra del ,fuego in ,latitude #ec ,s4 ,captain ,beechey informs me1 that branches of pink and yellow coral were frequently brought up from between twenty and twenty-five fathoms off the ,low atolls2 and ,lieutenant ,stokes1 writing to me from the ,n4,w4 coast of ,australia1 says that a strongly branched coral was procured there from thirty fathoms2 unfortunately it is not known to what genera these corals belong4 #cb 8,annales des ,sci4 ,nat40 tom4 vi4 #cc 8,remarks on ,coral ,formations10 page #ab4 #cd ,i am indebted to ,mr4 ,stokes for having kindly communicated this fact to me1 together with much other valuable information4 #ce ,i will record in the form of a note all the facts that ,i have been able to collect on the depths1 both within and without the tropics1 at which those corals and corallines can live1 which there is no reason to suppose ever materially aid in the construction of a reef4 ,,name ,,of ,,zoophyte ,depth in fathoms ,,country and ,s4 ,,latitude ,,authority ,,sertularia #dj ,cape ,horn #ff ,where none is given1 the observation is my own ,,cellaria ditto ,ditto ,,cellaria1 ,a minute #aij ,keeling ,atoll1 #ab scarlet encrusting species found living ,,cellaria1 ,an allied1 #dh ,st ,cruz ,riv4 #ej small stony sub-generic form ,a coral allied to #dj ,cape ,horn ,,vincularia1 with eight rows of cells ,,tubulipora1 near to #dj ,cape ,horn ,t4 patina ,,tubulipora1 near to #id ,east ,chiloe #dc ,t4 patina ,,cellepora1 several #dj ,cape ,horn species1 and allied sub-generic forms ,,cellepora1 several #dj and #eg ,chonos ,archipelago #de species1 and allied sub-generic forms ,,cellepora1 several #dh ,st ,cruz #ej species1 and allied sub-generic forms ,,eschara #cj ,tierra del ,fuego #ec ,,eschara #dh ,st ,cruz ,r4 #ej ,,retepora #dj ,cape ,horn ,,retepora #ajj ,cape of ,good ,hope #cd ,quoy and ,gaimard1 8,ann4 ,scien4 ,nat40 tome vi41 page #bhd4 ,,millepora1 a strong #id and #cj ,e4 ,chiloe #dc coral with cylindrical branches1 of a pink colour1 about two inches high1 resembling in the form of its orifices ,m4 aspera of ,lamarck ,tierra del ,fuego #ec ,,coralium #abj ,barbary #cc ,n4 ,peyssonel in paper read to ,royal ,society ,may #ageb4 ,,antipathes #af ,chonos #de ,,gorgonia 7or an allied #afj ,abrolhos on the ,captain ,beechey informed me of this fact in a letter4 form7 coast of ,brazil #ah ,ellis 78,nat4 ,hist4 of ,coralline10 page #if7 states that ,ombellularia was procured in latitude #gi ,n4 sticking to a line from the depth of #bcf fathoms2 hence this coral either must have been floating loose1 or was entangled in stray line at the bottom4 ,off ,keeling atoll a compound ,ascidia 7,sigillina7 was brought up from #ci fathoms1 and a piece of sponge1 apparently living1 from #gj1 and a fragment of ,nullipora also apparently living from #ib fathoms4 ,at a greater depth than #ij fathoms off this coral island1 the bottom was thickly strewed with joints of ,halimeda and small fragments of other ,nullipor1 but all dead4 ,captain ,b4 ,allen1 ,r4,n41 informs me that in the survey of the ,west ,indies it was noticed that between the depth of #aj and #bjj fathoms1 the sounding lead very generally came up coated with the dead joints of a ,halimeda1 of which he showed me specimens4 ,off ,pernambuco1 in ,brazil1 in about twelve fathoms1 the bottom was covered with fragments dead and alive of a dull red ,nullipora1 and ,i infer from ,roussin's chart1 that a bottom of this kind extends over a wide area4 ,on the beach1 within the coral-reefs of ,mauritius1 vast quantities of fragments of ,nullipor were piled up4 ,from these facts it appears1 that these simply organized bodies are amongst the most abundant productions of the sea47 ,although the limit of depth1 at which each particular kind of coral ceases to exist1 is far from being accurately known2 yet when we bear in mind the manner in which the clumps of coral gradually became infrequent at about the same depth1 and wholly disappeared at a greater depth than twenty fathoms1 on the slope round ,keeling atoll1 on the leeward side of the ,mauritius1 and at rather less depth1 both without and within the atolls of the ,maldiva and ,chagos ,archipelagoes2 and when we know that the reefs round these islands do not differ from other coral formations in their form and structure1 we may1 ,i think1 conclude that in ordinary cases1 reef-building polypifers do not flourish at greater depths than between twenty and thirty fathoms4 ,it has been argued#cf that reefs may possibly rise from very great depths through the means of small corals1 first making a platform for the growth of the stronger kinds4 ,this1 however1 is an arbitrary supposition3 it is not always remembered1 that in such cases there is an antagonist power in action1 namely1 the decay of organic bodies1 when not protected by a covering of sediment1 or by their own rapid growth4 ,we have1 moreover1 no right to calculate on unlimited time for the accumulation of small organic bodies into great masses4 ,every fact in geology proclaims that neither the land1 nor the bed of the sea retain for indefinite periods the same level4 ,as well might it be imagined that the ,british ,seas would in time become choked up with beds of oysters1 or that the numerous small corallines off the inhospitable shores of ,tierra del ,fuego would in time form a solid and extensive coral-reef4 #cf 8,journal of the ,royal ,geographical ,society10 #ahca1 page #bah4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,theory ,,of ,,the ,,formation ,,of ,,the ,,different ,,classes ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs4 ,the atolls of the larger archipelagoes are not formed on submerged craters1 or on banks of sediment4--,immense areas interspersed with atolls4--,their subsidence4--,the effects of storms and earthquakes on atolls4--,recent changes in their state4--,the origin of barrier-reefs and of atolls4--,their relative forms4--,the step-formed ledges and walls round the shores of some lagoons4--,the ring-formed reefs of the ,maldiva atolls4--,the submerged condition of parts or of the whole of some annular reefs4--,the disseverment of large atolls4--,the union of atolls by linear reefs4--,the ,great ,chagos ,bank4--,objections from the area and amount of subsidence required by the theory1 considered4--,the probable composition of the lower parts of atolls4 ,the naturalists who have visited the ,pacific1 seem to have had their attention riveted by the lagoon-islands1 or atolls1--those singular rings of coral-land which rise abruptly out of the unfathomable ocean--and have passed over1 almost unnoticed1 the scarcely less wonderful encircling barrier-reefs4 ,the theory most generally received on the formation of atolls1 is that they are based on submarine craters2 but where can we find a crater of the shape of ,bow atoll1 which is five times as long as it is broad 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #d72 or like that of ,menchikoff ,island 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #c471 with its three loops1 together sixty miles in length2 or like ,rimsky ,korsacoff1 narrow1 crooked1 and fifty-four miles long2 or like the northern ,maldiva atolls1 made up of numerous ring-formed reefs1 placed on the margin of a disc1--one of which discs is eighty-eight miles in length1 and only from ten to twenty in breadth8 ,it is1 also1 not a little improbable1 that there should have existed as many craters of immense size crowded together beneath the sea1 as there are now in some parts atolls4 ,but this theory lies under a greater difficulty1 as will be evident1 when we consider on what foundations the atolls of the larger archipelagoes rest3 nevertheless1 if the rim of a crater afforded a basis at the proper depth1 ,i am far from denying that a reef like a perfectly characterised atoll might not be formed2 some such1 perhaps1 now exist2 but ,i cannot believe in the possibility of the greater number having thus originated4 ,an earlier and better theory was proposed by ,chamisso2#a he supposes that as the more massive kinds of corals prefer the surf1 the outer portions1 in a reef rising from a submarine basis1 would first reach the surface and consequently form a ring4 ,but on this view it must be assumed1 that in every case the basis consists of a flat bank2 for if it were conically formed1 like a mountainous mass1 we can see no reason why the coral should spring up from the flanks1 instead of from the central and highest parts3 considering the number of the atolls in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 this assumption is very improbable4 ,as the lagoons of atolls are sometimes even more than forty fathoms deep1 it must1 also1 be assumed on this view1 that at a depth at which the waves do not break1 the coral grows more vigorously on the edges of a bank than on its central part2 and this is an assumption without any evidence in support of it4 ,i remarked1 in the third chapter1 that a reef1 growing on a detached bank1 would tend to assume an atoll-like structure2 if1 therefore1 corals were to grow up from a bank1 with a level surface some fathoms submerged1 having steep sides and being situated in a deep sea1 a reef not to be distinguished from an atoll1 might be formed3 ,i believe some such exist in the ,west ,indies4 ,but a difficulty of the same kind with that affecting the crater theory1 runners1 as we shall presently see1 this view inapplicable to the greater number of atolls4 #a ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #cca4 ,no theory worthy of notice has been advanced to account for those barrier-reefs1 which encircle islands of moderate dimensions4 ,the great reef which fronts the coast of ,australia has been supposed1 but without any special facts1 to rest on the edge of a submarine precipice1 extending parallel to the shore4 ,the origin of the third class or of fringing-reefs presents1 ,i believe1 scarcely any difficulty1 and is simply consequent on the polypifers not growing up from great depths1 and their not flourishing close to gently shelving beaches where the water is often turbid4 ,what cause1 then1 has given to atolls and barrier-reefs their characteristic forms8 ,let us see whether an important deduction will not follow from the consideration of these two circumstances1 first1 the reef-building corals flourishing only at limited depths2 and secondly1 the vastness of the areas interspersed with coral-reefs and coral-islets1 none of which rise to a greater height above the level of the sea1 than that attained by matter thrown up by the waves and winds4 ,i do not make this latter statement vaguely2 ,i have carefully sought for descriptions of every island in the intertropical seas2 and my task has been in some degree abridged by a map of the ,pacific1 corrected in #ahcd by ,,mm4 ,d',urville and ,lottin1 in which the low islands are distinguished from the high ones 7even from those much less than a hundred feet in height7 by being written without a capital letter2 ,i have detected a few errors in this map1 respecting the height of some of the islands1 which will be noticed in the ,appendix1 where ,i treat of coral formations in geographical order4 ,to the ,appendix1 also1 ,i must refer for a more particular account of the data on which the statements on the next page are grounded4 ,i have ascertained1 and chiefly from the writings of ,cook1 ,kotzebue1 ,bellinghausen1 ,duperrey1 ,beechey1 and ,lutk1 regarding the ,pacific2 and from ,moresby#b with respect to the ,indian ,ocean1 that in the following cases the term 8low island0 strictly means land of the height commonly attained by matter thrown up by the winds and the waves of an open sea4 ,if we draw a line 7the plan ,i have always adopted7 joining the external atolls of that part of the ,low ,archipelago in which the islands are numerous1 the figure will be a pointed ellipse 7reaching from ,hood to ,lazaref ,island71 of which the longer axis is #hdj geographical miles1 and the shorter #dbj miles2 in this space#c none of the innumerable islets united into great rings rise above the stated level4 ,the ,gilbert group is very narrow1 and #cjj miles in length4 ,in a prolonged line from this group1 at the distance of #bdj miles1 is the ,marshall ,archipelago1 the figure of which is an irregular square1 one end being broader than the other2 its length is #ebj miles1 with an average width of #bdj2 these two groups together are #a1jdj miles in length1 and all their islets are low4 ,between the southern end of the ,gilbert and the northern end of ,low ,archipelago1 the ocean is thinly strewed with islands1 all of which1 as far as ,i have been able to ascertain1 are low2 so that from nearly the southern end of the ,low ,archipelago1 to the northern end of the ,marshall ,archipelago1 there is a narrow band of ocean1 more than #d1jjj miles in length1 containing a great number of islands1 all of which are low4 ,in the western part of the ,caroline ,archipelago1 there is a space of #dhj miles in length1 and about #ajj broad1 thinly interspersed with low islands4 ,lastly1 in the ,indian ,ocean1 the archipelago of the ,maldivas is #dgj miles in length1 and #fj in breadth2 that of the ,laccadives is #aej by #ajj miles2 as there is a low island between these two groups1 they may be considered as one group of #a1jjj miles in length4 ,to this may be added the ,chagos group of low islands1 situated #bhj miles distant1 in a line prolonged from the southern extremity of the ,maldivas4 ,this group1 including the submerged banks1 is #agj miles in length and #hj in breadth4 ,so striking is the uniformity in direction of these three archipelagoes1 all the islands of which are low1 that ,captain ,moresby1 in one of his papers1 speaks of them as parts of one great chain1 nearly #a1ejj miles long4 ,i am1 then1 fully justified in repeating1 that enormous spaces1 both in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 are interspersed with islands1 of which not one rises above that height1 to which the waves and winds in an open sea can heap up matter4 #b ,see also ,captain ,owen's and ,lieutenant ,wood's papers in the 8,geographical ,journal01 on the ,maldiva and ,laccadive ,archipelagoes4 ,these officers particularly refer to the lowness of the islets2 but ,i chiefly ground my assertion respecting these two groups1 and the ,chagos group1 from information communicated to me by ,captain ,moresby4 #c ,i find from ,mr4 ,couthouy's pamphlet 7page #eh7 that ,aurora ,island is about two hundred feet in height2 it consists of coral-rock1 and seems to have been formed by the elevation of an atoll4 ,it lies north-east of ,tahiti1 close without the line bounding the space coloured dark blue in the map appended to this volume4 ,honden ,island1 which is situated in the extreme north-west part of the ,low ,archipelago1 according to measurements made on board the ,beagle1 whilst sailing by1 is #aad feet from the summit of the trees to the water's edge4 ,this island appeared to resemble the other atolls of the group4 ,on what foundations1 then1 have these reefs and islets of coral been constructed8 ,a foundation must originally have been present beneath each atoll at that limited depth1 which is indispensable for the first growth of the reef-building polypifers4 ,a conjecture will perhaps be hazarded1 that the requisite bases might have been afforded by the accumulation of great banks of sediment1 which owing to the action of superficial currents 7aided possibly by the undulatory movement of the sea7 did not quite reach the surface1--as actually appears to have been the case in some parts of the ,west ,indian ,sea4 ,but in the form and disposition of the groups of atolls1 there is nothing to countenance this notion2 and the assumption without any proof1 that a number of immense piles of sediment have been heaped on the floor of the great ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 in their central parts far remote from land1 and where the dark blue colour of the limpid water bespeaks its purity1 cannot for one moment be admitted4 ,the many widely-scattered atolls must1 therefore1 rest on rocky bases4 ,but we cannot believe that the broad summit of a mountain lies buried at the depth of a few fathoms beneath every atoll1 and nevertheless throughout the immense areas above-named1 with not one point of rock projecting above the level of the sea2 for we may judge with some accuracy of mountains beneath the sea1 by those on the land2 and where can we find a single chain several hundred miles in length and of considerable breadth1 much less several such chains1 with their many broad summits attaining the same height1 within from #abj to #ahj feet8 ,if the data be thought insufficient1 on which ,i have grounded my belief1 respecting the depth at which the reef-building polypifers can exist1 and it be assumed that they can flourish at a depth of even one hundred fathoms1 yet the weight of the above argument is but little diminished1 for it is almost equally improbable1 that as many submarine mountains1 as there are low islands in the several great and widely separated areas above specified1 should all rise within six hundred feet of the surface of the sea and not one above it1 as that they should be of the same height within the smaller limit of one or two hundred feet4 ,so highly improbable is this supposition1 that we are compelled to believe1 that the bases of the many atolls did never at any one period all lie submerged within the depth of a few fathoms beneath the surface1 but that they were brought into the requisite position or level1 some at one period and some at another1 through movements in the earth's crust4 ,but this could not have been effected by elevation1 for the belief that points so numerous and so widely separated were successively uplifted to a certain level1 but that not one point was raised above that level1 is quite as improbable as the former supposition1 and indeed differs little from it4 ,it will probably occur to those who have read ,ehrenberg's account of the ,reefs of the ,red ,sea1 that many points in these great areas may have been elevated1 but that as soon as raised1 the protuberant parts were cut off by the destroying action of the waves3 a moment's reflection1 however1 on the basin-like form of the atolls1 will show that this is impossible2 for the upheaval and subsequent abrasion of an island would leave a flat disc1 which might become coated with coral1 but not a deeply concave surface2 moreover1 we should expect to see1 in some parts at least1 the rock of the foundation brought to the surface4 ,if1 then1 the foundations of the many atolls were not uplifted into the requisite position1 they must of necessity have subsided into it2 and this at once solves every difficulty1#d for we may safely infer1 from the facts given in the last chapter1 that during a gradual subsidence the corals would be favourably circumstanced for building up their solid frame works and reaching the surface1 as island after island slowly disappeared4 ,thus areas of immense extent in the central and most profound parts of the great oceans1 might become interspersed with coral-islets1 none of which would rise to a greater height than that attained by detritus heaped up by the sea1 and nevertheless they might all have been formed by corals1 which absolutely required for their growth a solid foundation within a few fathoms of the surface4 #d ,the additional difficulty on the crater hypothesis before alluded to1 will now be evident2 for on this view the volcanic action must be supposed to have formed within the areas specified a vast number of craters1 all rising within a few fathoms of the surface1 and not one above it4 ,the supposition that the craters were at different times upraised above the surface1 and were there abraded by the surf and subsequently coated by corals1 is subject to nearly the same objections with those given above in this paragraph2 but ,i consider it superfluous to detail all the arguments opposed to such a notion4 ,chamisso's theory1 from assuming the existence of so many banks1 all lying at the proper depth beneath the water1 is also vitally defective4 ,the same observation applies to an hypothesis of ,lieutenant ,nelson's 78,geolog4 ,trans40 volume v41 page #abb71 who supposes that the ring-formed structure is caused by a greater number of germs of corals becoming attached to the declivity1 than to the central plateau of a submarine bank3 it likewise applies to the notion formerly entertained 7,forster's 8,observ40 page #aea71 that lagoon-islands owe their peculiar form to the instinctive tendencies of the polypifers4 ,according to this latter view1 the corals on the outer margin of the reef instinctively expose themselves to the surf in order to afford protection to corals living in the lagoon1 which belong to other genera1 and to other families6 ,it would be out of place here to do more than allude to the many facts1 showing that the supposition of a gradual subsidence over large areas is by no means improbable4 ,we have the clearest proof that a movement of this kind is possible1 in the upright trees buried under the strata many thousand feet in thickness2 we have also every reason for believing that there are now large areas gradually sinking1 in the same manner as others are rising4 ,and when we consider how many parts of the surface of the globe have been elevated within recent geological periods1 we must admit that there have been subsidences on a corresponding scale1 for otherwise the whole globe would have swollen4 ,it is very remarkable that ,mr4 ,lyell1#e even in the first edition of his 8,principles of ,geology10 inferred that the amount of subsidence in the ,pacific must have exceeded that of elevation1 from the area of land being very small relatively to the agents there tending to form it1 namely1 the growth of coral and volcanic action4 ,but it will be asked1 are there any direct proofs of a subsiding movement in those areas1 in which subsidence will explain a phenomenon otherwise inexplicable8 ,this1 however1 can hardly be expected1 for it must ever be most difficult1 excepting in countries long civilised1 to detect a movement1 the tendency of which is to conceal the part affected4 ,in barbarous and semi-civilised nations how long might not a slow movement1 even of elevation such as that now affecting ,scandinavia1 have escaped attention6 #e 8,principles of ,geology10 sixth edition1 volume iii41 page #chf4 ,mr4 ,williams#f insists strongly that the traditions of the natives1 which he has taken much pains in collecting1 do not indicate the appearance of any new islands3 but on the theory of a gradual subsidence1 all that would be apparent would be1 the water sometimes encroaching slowly on the land1 and the land again recovering by the accumulation of detritus its former extent1 and perhaps sometimes the conversion of an atoll with coral islets on it1 into a bare or into a sunken annular reef4 ,such changes would naturally take place at the periods when the sea rose above its usual limits1 during a gale of more than ordinary strength2 and the effects of the two causes would be hardly distinguishable4 ,in ,kotzebue's 8,voyage0 there are accounts of islands1 both in the ,caroline and ,marshall ,archipelagoes1 which have been partly washed away during hurricanes2 and ,kadu1 the native who was on board one of the ,russian vessels1 said 8he saw the sea at ,radack rise to the feet of the cocoa-nut trees2 but it was conjured in time40#g ,a storm lately entirely swept away two of the ,caroline islands1 and converted them into shoals2 it partly1 also1 destroyed two other islands4#h ,according to a tradition which was communicated to ,captain ,fitzroy1 it is believed in the ,low ,archipelago1 that the arrival of the first ship caused a great inundation1 which destroyed many lives4 ,mr4 ,stutchbury relates1 that in #ahbe1 the western side of ,chain ,atoll1 in the same group1 was completely devastated by a hurricane1 and not less than #cjj lives lost3 8in this instance it was evident1 even to the natives1 that the hurricane alone was not sufficient to account for the violent agitation of the ocean40#i ,that considerable changes have taken place recently in some of the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago1 appears certain from the case already given of ,matilda ,island3 with respect to ,whitsunday and ,gloucester ,islands in this same group1 we must either attribute great inaccuracy to their discoverer1 the famous circumnavigator ,wallis1 or believe that they have undergone a considerable change in the period of fifty-nine years1 between his voyage and that of ,captain ,beechey's4 ,whitsunday ,island is described by ,wallis as 8about four miles long1 and three wide10 now it is only one mile and a half long4 ,the appearance of ,gloucester ,island1 in ,captain ,beechey's words1#aj 8has been accurately described by its discoverer1 but its present form and extent differ materially40 ,blenheim reef1 in the ,chagos group1 consists of a water-washed annular reef1 thirteen miles in circumference1 surrounding a lagoon ten fathoms deep3 on its surface there were a few worn patches of conglomerate coral-rock1 of about the size of hovels2 and these ,captain ,moresby considered as being1 without doubt1 the last remnants of islets2 so that here an atoll has been converted into an atoll-formed reef4 ,the inhabitants of the ,maldiva ,archipelago1 as long ago as #afje1 declared1 8that the high tides and violent currents were diminishing the number of the islands30#aa and ,i have already shown1 on the authority of ,captain ,moresby1 that the work of destruction is still in progress2 but that on the other hand the first formation of some islets is known to the present inhabitants4 ,in such cases1 it would be exceedingly difficult to detect a gradual subsidence of the foundation1 on which these mutable structures rest4 #f ,williams's 8,narrative of ,missionary ,enterprise10 page #ca4 #g ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #afh4 #h ,m4 ,desmoulins in 8,comptes ,rendus10 #ahdj1 page #hcg4 #i 8,west of ,england ,journal01 ,no4 ,i41 page #ce4 #aj ,beechey's 8,voyage to the ,pacific10 chapter vii41 and ,wallis's 8,voyage in the #8,dolphin'10 chapter iv4 #aa ,see an extract from ,pyrard's ,voyage in ,captain ,owen's paper on the ,maldiva ,archipelago1 in the 8,geographical ,journal01 volume ii41 page #hd4 ,some of the archipelagoes of low coral-islands are subject to earthquakes3 ,captain ,moresby informs me that they are frequent1 though not very strong1 in the ,chagos group1 which occupies a very central position in the ,indian ,ocean1 and is far from any land not of coral formation4 ,one of the islands in this group was formerly covered by a bed of mould1 which1 after an earthquake1 disappeared1 and was believed by the residents to have been washed by the rain through the broken masses of underlying rock2 the island was thus rendered unproductive4 ,chamisso#ab states1 that earthquakes are felt in the ,marshall atolls1 which are far from any high land1 and likewise in the islands of the ,caroline ,archipelago4 ,on one of the latter1 namely ,oulleay atoll1 ,admiral ,lutk1 as he had the kindness to inform me1 observed several straight fissures about a foot in width1 running for some hundred yards obliquely across the whole width of the reef4 ,fissures indicate a stretching of the earth's crust1 and1 therefore1 probably changes in its level2 but these coral-islands1 which have been shaken and fissured1 certainly have not been elevated1 and1 therefore1 probably they have subsided4 ,in the chapter on ,keeling atoll1 ,i attempted to show by direct evidence1 that the island underwent a movement of subsidence1 during the earthquakes lately felt there4 #ab ,see ,chamisso1 in ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 pages #ahb and #acf4 ,the facts stand thus2--there are many large tracts of ocean1 without any high land1 interspersed with reefs and islets1 formed by the growth of those kinds of corals1 which cannot live at great depths2 and the existence of these reefs and low islets1 in such numbers and at such distant points1 is quite inexplicable1 excepting on the theory1 that the bases on which the reefs first became attached1 slowly and successively sank beneath the level of the sea1 whilst the corals continued to grow upwards4 ,no positive facts are opposed to this view1 and some general considerations render it probable4 ,there is evidence of change in form1 whether or not from subsidence1 on some of these coral-islands2 and there is evidence of subterranean disturbances beneath them4 ,will then the theory1 to which we have thus been led1 solve the curious problem1--what has given to each class of reef its peculiar form8 ,illustration ,,aa--,outer edge of the reef at the level of the sea4 ,,bb--,shores of the island4 ,a,a--,outer edge of the reef1 after its upward growth during a period of subsidence4 ,,cc--,the lagoon-channel between the reef and the shores of the now encircled land4 ,b,b--,the shores of the encircled island4 ,n4,b4--,in this1 and the following woodcut1 the subsidence of the land could only be represented by an apparent rise in the level of the sea4 ,illustration ,a,a--,outer edges of the barrier-reef at the level of the sea4 ,the cocoa-nut trees represent coral-islets formed on the reef4 ,,cc--,the lagoon-channel4 ,b,b--,the shores of the island1 generally formed of low alluvial land and of coral detritus from the lagoon-channel4 ,a,a--,the outer edges of the reef now forming an atoll4 ,c--,the lagoon of the newly formed atoll4 ,according to the scale1 the depth of the lagoon and of the lagoon-channel is exaggerated4 ,let us in imagination place within one of the subsiding areas1 an island surrounded by a 8fringing-reef10--that kind1 which alone offers no difficulty in the explanation of its origin4 ,let the unbroken lines and the oblique shading in the woodcut 7,no4 #d7 represent a vertical section through such an island2 and the horizontal shading will represent the section of the reef4 ,now1 as the island sinks down1 either a few feet at a time or quite insensibly1 we may safely infer from what we know of the conditions favourable to the growth of coral1 that the living masses bathed by the surf on the margin of the reef1 will soon regain the surface4 ,the water1 however1 will encroach1 little by little1 on the shore1 the island becoming lower and smaller1 and the space between the edge of the reef and the beach proportionately broader4 ,a section of the reef and island in this state1 after a subsidence of several hundred feet1 is given by the dotted lines3 coral-islets are supposed to have been formed on the new reef1 and a ship is anchored in the lagoon-channel4 ,this section is in every respect that of an encircling barrier-reef2 it is1 in fact1 a section taken#ac ,e4 and ,w4 through the highest point of the encircled island of ,bolabola2 of which a plan is given in ,plate ,i41 ,figure #e4 ,the same section is more clearly shown in the following woodcut 7,no4 #e7 by the unbroken lines4 ,the width of the reef1 and its slope1 both on the outer and inner side1 will have been determined by the growing powers of the coral1 under the conditions 7for instance the force of the breakers and of the currents7 to which it has been exposed2 and the lagoon-channel will be deeper or shallower1 in proportion to the growth of the delicately branched corals within the reef1 and to the accumulation of sediment1 relatively1 also1 to the rate of subsidence and the length of the intervening stationary periods4 #ac ,the section has been made from the chart given in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the ,coquille40 ,the scale is 4#eg of an inch to a mile4 ,the height of the island1 according to ,m4 ,lesson1 is #d1jbf feet4 ,the deepest part of the lagoon-channel is #afb feet2 its depth is exaggerated in the woodcut for the sake of clearness4 ,it is evident in this section1 that a line drawn perpendicularly down from the outer edge of the new reef to the foundation of solid rock1 exceeds by as many feet as there have been feet of subsidence1 that small limit of depth at which the effective polypifers can live--the corals having grown up1 as the whole sank down1 from a basis formed of other corals and their consolidated fragments4 ,thus the difficulty on this head1 which before seemed so great1 disappears4 ,as the space between the reef and the subsiding shore continued to increase in breadth and depth1 and as the injurious effects of the sediment and fresh water borne down from the land were consequently lessened1 the greater number of the channels1 with which the reef in its fringing state must have been breached1 especially those which fronted the smaller streams1 will have become choked up with the growth of coral3 on the windward side of the reef1 where the coral grows most vigorously1 the breaches will probably have first been closed4 ,in barrier-reefs1 therefore1 the breaches kept open by draining the tidal waters of the lagoon-channel1 will generally be placed on the leeward side1 and they will still face the mouths of the larger streams1 although removed beyond the influence of their sediment and fresh water2--and this1 it has been shown1 is commonly the case4 ,referring to the diagram shown above1 in which the newly formed barrier-reef is represented by unbroken lines1 instead of by dots as in the former woodcut1 let the work of subsidence go on1 and the doubly pointed hill will form two small islands 7or more1 according to the number of the hills7 included within one annular reef4 ,let the island continue subsiding1 and the coral-reef will continue growing up on its own foundation1 whilst the water gains inch by inch on the land1 until the last and highest pinnacle is covered1 and there remains a perfect atoll4 ,a vertical section of this atoll is shown in the woodcut by the dotted lines2--a ship is anchored in its lagoon1 but islets are not supposed yet to have been formed on the reef4 ,the depth of the lagoon and the width and slope of the reef1 will depend on the circumstances just referred to under barrier-reefs4 ,any further subsidence will produce no change in the atoll1 except perhaps a diminution in its size1 from the reef not growing vertically upwards2 but should the currents of the sea act violently upon it1 and should the corals perish on part or on the whole of its margin1 changes would result during subsidence which will be presently noticed4 ,i may here observe1 that a bank either of rock or of hardened sediment1 level with the surface of the sea1 and fringed with living coral1 would 7if not so small as to allow the central space to be quickly filled up with detritus7 by subsidence be converted immediately into an atoll1 without passing1 as in the case of a reef fringing the shore of an island1 through the intermediate form of a barrier-reef4 ,if such a bank lay a few fathoms submerged1 the simple growth of the coral 7as remarked in the third chapter7 without the aid of subsidence1 would produce a structure scarcely to be distinguished from a true atoll2 for in all cases the corals on the outer margin of a reef1 from having space and being freely exposed to the open sea1 will grow vigorously and tend to form a continuous ring whilst the growth of the less massive kinds on the central expanse1 will be checked by the sediment formed there1 and by that washed inwards by the breakers2 and as the space becomes shallower1 their growth will1 also1 be checked by the impurities of the water1 and probably by the small amount of food brought by the enfeebled currents1 in proportion to the surface of living reefs studded with innumerable craving mouths3 the subsidence of a reef based on a bank of this kind1 would give depth to its central expanse or lagoon1 steepness to its flanks1 and through the free growth of the coral1 symmetry to its outline3--,i may here repeat that the larger groups of atolls in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans cannot be supposed to be founded on banks of this nature4 ,if1 instead of the island in the diagram1 the shore of a continent fringed by a reef had subsided1 a great barrier-reef1 like that on the north-east coast of ,australia1 would have necessarily resulted2 and it would have been separated from the main land by a deep-water channel1 broad in proportion to the amount of subsidence1 and to the less or greater inclination of the neighbouring coast-line4 ,the effect of the continued subsidence of a great barrier-reef of this kind1 and its probable conversion into a chain of separate atolls1 will be noticed1 when we discuss the apparent progressive disseverment of the larger ,maldiva atolls4 ,we now are able to perceive that the close similarity in form1 dimensions1 structure1 and relative position 7which latter point will hereafter be more fully noticed7 between fringing and encircling barrier-reefs1 and between these latter and atolls1 is the necessary result of the transformation1 during subsidence of the one class into the other4 ,on this view1 the three classes of reefs ought to graduate into each other4 ,reefs having intermediate character between those of the fringing and barrier classes do exist2 for instance1 on the south-west coast of ,madagascar1 a reef extends for several miles1 within which there is a broad channel from seven to eight fathoms deep1 but the sea does not deepen abruptly outside the reef4 ,such cases1 however1 are open to some doubts1 for an old fringing-reef1 which had extended itself a little on a basis of its own formation1 would hardly be distinguishable from a barrier-reef1 produced by a small amount of subsidence1 and with its lagoon-channel nearly filled up with sediment during a long stationary period4 ,between barrier-reefs1 encircling either one lofty island or several small low ones1 and atolls including a mere expanse of water1 a striking series can be shown3 in proof of this1 ,i need only refer to the first plate in this volume1 which speaks more plainly to the eye1 than any description could to the ear4 ,the authorities from which the charts have been engraved1 together with some remarks on them and descriptive of the plates1 are given above4 ,at ,new ,caledonia 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #e47 the barrier-reefs extend for #aej miles on each side of the submarine prolongation of the island2 and at their northern extremity they appear broken up and converted into a vast atoll-formed reef1 supporting a few low coral-islets3 we may imagine that we here see the effects of subsidence actually in progress1 the water always encroaching on the northern end of the island1 towards which the mountains slope down1 and the reefs steadily building up their massive fabrics in the lines of their ancient growth4 ,we have as yet only considered the origin of barrier-reefs and atolls in their simplest form2 but there remain some peculiarities in structure and some special cases1 described in the two first chapters1 to be accounted for by our theory4 ,these consist--in the inclined ledge terminated by a wall1 and sometimes succeeded by a second ledge with a wall1 round the shores of certain lagoons and lagoon-channels2 a structure which cannot1 as ,i endeavoured to show1 be explained by the simple growing powers of the corals1--in the ring or basin-like forms of the central reefs1 as well as of the separate marginal portions of the northern ,maldiva atolls1--in the submerged condition of the whole1 or of parts of certain barrier and atoll-formed reefs2 where only a part is submerged1 this being generally to leeward1--in the apparent progressive disseverment of some of the ,maldiva atolls1--in the existence of irregularly formed atolls1 some being tied together by linear reefs1 and others with spurs projecting from them1--and1 lastly1 in the structure and origin of the ,great ,chagos bank4 ,step-formed ledges round certain lagoons4--,if we suppose an atoll to subside at an extremely slow rate1 it is difficult to follow out the complex results4 ,the living corals would grow up on the outer margin2 and likewise probably in the gullies and deeper parts of the bare surface of the annular reef2 the water would encroach on the islets1 but the accumulation of fresh detritus might possibly prevent their entire submergence4 ,after a subsidence of this very slow nature1 the surface of the annular reef sloping gently into the lagoon1 would probably become united with the irregular reefs and banks of sand1 which line the shores of most lagoons4 ,should1 however1 the atoll be carried down by a more rapid movement1 the whole surface of the annular reef1 where there was a foundation of solid matter1 would be favourably circumstanced for the fresh growth of coral2 but as the corals grew upwards on its exterior margin1 and the waves broke heavily on this part1 the increase of the massive polypifers on the inner side would be checked from the want of water4 ,consequently1 the exterior parts would first reach the surface1 and the new annular reef thus formed on the old one1 would have its summit inclined inwards1 and be terminated by a subaqueous wall1 formed by the upward growth of the coral 7before being much checked71 from the inner edge of the solid parts of the old reef4 ,the inner portion of the new reef1 from not having grown to the surface1 would be covered by the waters of the lagoon4 ,should a subsidence of the same kind be repeated1 the corals would again grow up in a wall1 from all the solid parts of the resunken reef1 and1 therefore1 not from within the sandy shores of the lagoon2 and the inner part of the new annular reef would1 from being as before checked in its upward growth1 be of less height than the exterior parts1 and therefore would not reach the surface of the lagoon4 ,in this case the shores of the lagoon would be surrounded by two inclined ledges1 one beneath the other1 and both abruptly terminated by subaqueous cliffs4#ad #ad ,according to ,mr4 ,couthouy 7page #bf7 the external reef round many atolls descends by a succession of ledges or terraces4 ,he attempts1 ,i doubt whether successfully1 to explain this structure somewhat in the same manner as ,i have attempted1 with respect to the internal ledges round the lagoons of some atolls4 ,more facts are wanted regarding the nature both of the interior and exterior step-like ledges3 are all the ledges1 or only the upper ones1 covered with living coral8 ,if they are all covered1 are the kinds different on the ledges according to the depth8 ,do the interior and exterior ledges occur together in the same atolls2 if so1 what is their total width1 and is the intervening surface-reef narrow1 etc48 ,the ring or basin-formed reefs of the northern ,maldiva atolls4--,i may first observe1 that the reefs within the lagoons of atolls and within lagoon-channels1 would1 if favourably circumstanced1 grow upwards during subsidence in the same manner as the annular rim2 and1 therefore1 we might expect that such lagoon-reefs1 when not surrounded and buried by an accumulation of sediment more rapid than the rate of subsidence1 would rise abruptly from a greater depth than that at which the efficient polypifers can flourish3 we see this well exemplified in the small abruptly-sided reefs1 with which the deep lagoons of the ,chagos and ,southern ,maldiva atolls are studded4 ,with respect to the ring or basin-formed reefs of the ,northern ,maldiva atolls1 it is evident1 from the perfectly continuous series which exists that the marginal rings1 although wider than the exterior or bounding reef of ordinary atolls1 are only modified portions of such a reef2 it is also evident that the central rings1 although wider than the knolls or reefs which commonly occur in lagoons1 occupy their place4 ,the ring-like structure has been shown to be contingent on the breaches into the lagoon being broad and numerous1 so that all the reefs which are bathed by the waters of the lagoon are placed under nearly the same conditions with the outer coast of an atoll standing in the open sea4 ,hence the exterior and living margins of these reefs must have been favourably circumstanced for growing outwards1 and increasing beyond the usual breadth2 and they must likewise have been favourably circumstanced for growing vigorously upwards1 during the subsiding movements1 to which by our theory the whole archipelago has been subjected2 and subsidence with this upward growth of the margins would convert the central space of each little reef into a small lagoon4 ,this1 however1 could only take place with those reefs1 which had increased to a breadth sufficient to prevent their central spaces from being almost immediately filled up with the sand and detritus driven inwards from all sides3 hence it is that few reefs1 which are less than half a mile in diameter1 even in the atolls where the basin-like structure is most strikingly exhibited1 include lagoons4 ,this remark1 ,i may add1 applies to all coral-reefs wherever found4 ,the basin-formed reefs of the ,maldiva ,archipelago may1 in fact1 be briefly described1 as small atolls formed during subsidence over the separate portions of large and broken atolls1 in the same manner as these latter were formed over the barrier-reefs1 which encircled the islands of a large archipelago now wholly submerged4 ,submerged and ,dead ,reefs4--,in the second section of the first chapter1 ,i have shown that there are in the neighbourhood of atolls1 some deeply submerged banks1 with level surfaces2 that there are others1 less deeply but yet wholly submerged1 having all the characters of perfect atolls1 but consisting merely of dead coral-rock2 that there are barrier-reefs and atolls with merely a portion of their reef1 generally on the leeward side1 submerged2 and that such portions either retain their perfect outline1 or they appear to be quite effaced1 their former place being marked only by a bank1 conforming in outline with that part of the reef which remains perfect4 ,these several cases are1 ,i believe1 intimately related together1 and can be explained by the same means4 ,there1 perhaps1 exist some submerged reefs1 covered with living coral and growing upwards1 but to these ,i do not here refer4 ,as we see that in those parts of the ocean1 where coral-reefs are most abundant1 one island is fringed and another neighbouring one is not fringed2 as we see in the same archipelago1 that all the reefs are more perfect in one part of it than in another1 for instance1 in the southern half compared with the northern half of the ,maldiva ,archipelago1 and likewise on the outer coasts compared with the inner coasts of the atolls in this same group1 which are placed in a double row2 as we know that the existence of the innumerable polypifers forming a reef1 depends on their sustenance1 and that they are preyed on by other organic beings2 and1 lastly1 as we know that some inorganic causes are highly injurious to the growth of coral1 it cannot be expected that during the round of change to which earth1 air1 and water are exposed1 the reef-building polypifers should keep alive for perpetuity in any one place2 and still less can this be expected1 during the progressive subsidences1 perhaps at some periods more rapid than at others1 to which by our theory these reefs and islands have been subjected and are liable4 ,it is1 then1 not improbable that the corals should sometimes perish either on the whole or on part of a reef2 if on part1 the dead portion1 after a small amount of subsidence1 would still retain its proper outline and position beneath the water4 ,after a more prolonged subsidence1 it would probably form1 owing to the accumulation of sediment1 only the margin of a flat bank1 marking the limits of the former lagoon4 ,such dead portions of reef would generally lie on the leeward side1#ae for the impure water and fine sediment would more easily flow out from the lagoon over this side of the reef1 where the force of the breakers is less than to windward2 and therefore the corals would be less vigorous on this side1 and be less able to resist any destroying agent4 ,it is likewise owing to this same cause1 that reefs are more frequently breached to leeward by narrow channels1 serving as by ship-channels1 than to windward4 ,if the corals perished entirely1 or on the greater part of the circumference of an atoll1 an atoll-shaped bank of dead rock1 more or less entirely submerged1 would be produced2 and further subsidence1 together with the accumulation of sediment1 would often obliterate its atoll-like structure1 and leave only a bank with a level surface4 #ae ,mr4 ,lyell1 in the first edition of his 8,principles of ,geology10 offered a somewhat different explanation of this structure4 ,he supposes that there has been subsidence2 but he was not aware that the submerged portions of reef were in most cases1 if not in all1 dead2 and he attributes the difference in height in the two sides of most atolls1 chiefly to the greater accumulation of detritus to windward than to leeward4 ,but as matter is accumulated only on the backward part of the reef1 the front part would remain of the same height on both sides4 ,i may here observe that in most cases 7for instance1 at ,peros ,banhos1 the ,gambier group and the ,great ,chagos ,bank71 and ,i suspect in all cases1 the dead and submerged portions do not blend or slope into the living and perfect parts1 but are separated from them by an abrupt line4 ,in some instances small patches of living reef rise to the surface from the middle of the submerged and dead parts4 ,in the ,chagos group of atolls1 within an area of #afj miles by #fj1 there are two atoll-formed banks of dead rock 7besides another very imperfect one71 entirely submerged2 a third1 with merely two or three very small pieces of living reef rising to the surface2 and a fourth1 namely1 ,peros ,banhos 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #i71 with a portion nine miles in length dead and submerged4 ,as by our theory this area has subsided1 and as there is nothing improbable in the death1 either from changes in the state of the surrounding sea or from the subsidence being great or sudden1 of the corals on the whole1 or on portions of some of the atolls1 the case of the ,chagos group presents no difficulty4 ,so far indeed are any of the above-mentioned cases of submerged reefs from being inexplicable1 that their occurrence might have been anticipated on our theory1 and as fresh atolls are supposed to be in progressive formation by the subsidence of encircling barrier-reefs1 a weighty objection1 namely that the number of atolls must be increasing infinitely1 might even have been raised1 if proofs of the occasional destruction and loss of atolls could not have been adduced4 ,the disseverment of the larger ,maldiva atolls4--,the apparent progressive disseverment in the ,maldiva ,archipelago of large atolls into smaller ones1 is1 in many respects1 an important consideration1 and requires an explanation4 ,the graduated series which marks1 as ,i believe1 this process1 can be observed only in the northern half of the group1 where the atolls have exceedingly imperfect margins1 consisting of detached basin-formed reefs4 ,the currents of the sea flow across these atolls1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 with considerable force1 and drift the sediment from side to side during the monsoons1 transporting much of it seaward2 yet the currents sweep with greater force round their flanks4 ,it is historically known that these atolls have long existed in their present state2 and we can believe1 that even during a very slow subsidence they might thus remain1 the central expanse being kept at nearly its original depth by the accumulation of sediment4 ,but in the action of such nicely balanced forces during a progressive subsidence 7like that1 to which by our theory this archipelago has been subjected71 it would be strange if the currents of the sea should never make a direct passage across some one of the atolls1 through the many wide breaches in their margins4 ,if this were once effected1 a deep-water channel would soon be formed by the removal of the finer sediment1 and the check to its further accumulation2 and the sides of the channel would be worn into a slope like that on the outer coasts1 which are exposed to the same force of the currents4 ,in fact1 a channel precisely like that bifurcating one which divides ,mahlos ,mahdoo 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #d471 would almost necessarily be formed4 ,the scattered reefs situated near the borders of the new ocean-channel1 from being favourably placed for the growth of coral1 would1 by their extension1 tend to produce fresh margins to the dissevered portions2 such a tendency is very evident 7as may be seen in the large published chart7 in the elongated reefs on the borders of the two channels intersecting ,mahlos ,mahdoo4 ,such channels would become deeper with continued subsidence1 and probably from the reefs not growing up perpendicularly1 somewhat broader4 ,in this case1 and more especially if the channels had been formed originally of considerable breadth1 the dissevered portions would become perfect and distinct atolls1 like ,ari and ,ross atolls 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #f71 or like the two ,nillandoo atolls1 which must be considered as distinct1 although related in form and position1 and separated from each other by channels1 which though deep have been sounded4 ,further subsidence would render such channels unfathomable1 and the dissevered portions would then resemble ,phaleedoo and ,moluque atolls1 or ,mahlos ,mahdoo and ,horsburgh atolls 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #d71 which are related to each other in no respect except in proximity and position4 ,hence1 on the theory of subsidence1 the disseverment of large atolls1 which have imperfect margins 7for otherwise their disseverment would be scarcely possible71 and which are exposed to strong currents1 is far from being an improbable event2 and the several stages1 from close relation to entire isolation in the atolls of the ,maldiva ,archipelago1 are readily explicable4 ,we might go even further1 and assert as not improbable1 that the first formation of the ,maldiva ,archipelago was due to a barrier-reef1 of nearly the same dimensions with that of ,new ,caledonia 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #e71 for if1 in imagination1 we complete the subsidence of that great island1 we might anticipate from the present broken condition of the northern portion of the reef1 and from the almost entire absence of reefs on the eastern coast1 that the barrier-reef after repeated subsidences1 would become during its upward growth separated into distinct portions2 and these portions would tend to assume an atoll-like structure1 from the coral growing with vigour round their entire circumferences1 when freely exposed to an open sea4 ,as we have some large islands partly submerged with barrier-reefs marking their former limits1 such as ,new ,caledonia1 so our theory makes it probable that there should be other large islands wholly submerged2 and these1 we may now infer1 would be surmounted1 not by one enormous atoll1 but by several large elongated ones1 like the atolls in the ,maldiva group2 and these again1 during long periods of subsidence1 would sometimes become dissevered into smaller atolls4 ,i may add1 that both in the ,marshall and ,caroline ,archipelagoes1 there are atolls standing close together1 which have an evident relationship in form3 we may suppose1 in such cases1 either that two or more encircled islands originally stood close together1 and afforded bases for two or more atolls1 or that one atoll has been dissevered4 ,from the position1 as well as form1 of three atolls in the ,caroline ,archipelago 7the ,namourrek and ,elato group71 which are placed in an irregular circle1 ,i am strongly tempted to believe that they have originated by the process of disseverment4#af #af ,the same remark is1 perhaps1 applicable to the islands of ,ollap1 ,fanadik1 and ,tamatam in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 of which charts are given in the atlas of ,duperrey's voyage3 a line drawn through the linear reefs and lagoons of these three islands forms a semicircle4 ,consult also1 the atlas of ,lutk's voyage2 and for the ,marshall group that of ,kotzebue2 for the ,gilbert group consult the atlas of ,duperrey's voyage4 ,most of the points here referred to may1 however1 be seen in ,krusenstern's general ,atlas of the ,pacific4 ,irregularly formed ,atolls4--,in the ,marshall group1 ,musquillo atoll consists of two loops united in one point2 and ,menchikoff atoll is formed of three loops1 two of which 7as may be seen in ,figure #c1 ,plate ,,ii47 are connected by a mere ribbon-shaped reef1 and the three together are sixty miles in length4 ,in the ,gilbert group some of the atolls have narrow strips of reef1 like spurs1 projecting from them4 ,there occur also in parts of the open sea1 a few linear and straight reefs1 standing by themselves2 and likewise some few reefs in the form of crescents1 with their extremities more or less curled inwards4 ,now1 the upward growth of a barrier-reef which fronted only one side of an island1 or one side of an elongated island with its extremities 7of which cases exist71 would produce after the complete subsidence of the land1 mere strips or crescent or hook-formed reefs3 if the island thus partially fronted became divided during subsidence into two or more islands1 these islands would be united together by linear reefs2 and from the further growth of the coral along their shores together with subsidence1 reefs of various forms might ultimately be produced1 either atolls united together by linear reefs1 or atolls with spurs projecting from them4 ,some1 however1 of the more simple forms above specified1 might1 as we have seen1 be equally well produced by the coral perishing during subsidence on part of the circumference of an atoll1 whilst on the other parts it continued to grow up till it reached the surface4 ,the ,great ,chagos ,bank4--,i have already shown that the submerged condition of the ,great ,chagos ,bank 7,plate ,,ii41 ,figure #a1 with its section ,figure #b71 and of some other banks in the ,chagos group1 may in all probability be attributed to the coral having perished before or during the movements of subsidence1 to which this whole area by our theory has been subjected4 ,the external rim or upper ledge 7shaded in the chart71 consists of dead coral-rock thinly covered with sand2 it lies at an average depth of between five and eight fathoms1 and perfectly resembles in form the annular reef of an atoll4 ,the banks of the second level1 the boundaries of which are marked by dotted lines in the chart1 lie from about fifteen to twenty fathoms beneath the surface2 they are several miles broad1 and terminate in a very steep slope round the central expanse4 ,this central expanse ,i have already described1 as consisting of a level muddy flat between thirty and forty fathoms deep4 ,the banks of the second level1 might at first sight be thought analogous to the internal step-like ledge of coral-rock which borders the lagoons of some atolls1 but their much greater width1 and their being formed of sand1 are points of essential difference4 ,on the eastern side of the atoll some of the banks are linear and parallel1 resembling islets in a great river1 and pointed directly towards a great breach on the opposite side of the atoll2 these are best seen in the large published chart4 ,i inferred from this circumstance1 that strong currents sometimes set directly across this vast bank2 and ,i have since heard from ,captain ,moresby that this is the case4 ,i observed1 also1 that the channels or breaches through the rim1 were all of the same depth as the central lagoon-like space into which they lead2 whereas the channels into the other atolls of the ,chagos group1 and as ,i believe into most other large atolls1 are not nearly as deep as their lagoons3 for instance at ,peros ,banhos1 the channels are only of the same depth1 namely between ten and twenty fathoms1 as the bottom of the lagoon for a space about a mile and a half in width round its shores1 whilst the central expanse of the lagoon is from thirty-five to forty fathoms deep4 ,now1 if an atoll during a gradual subsidence once became entirely submerged1 like the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 and therefore no longer exposed to the surf1 very little sediment could be formed from it2 and consequently the channels leading into the lagoon from not being filled up with drifted sand and coral detritus1 would continue increasing in depth1 as the whole sank down4 ,in this case1 we might expect that the currents of the open sea1 instead of any longer sweeping round the submarine flanks1 would flow directly through the breaches across the lagoon1 removing in their course the finer sediment1 and preventing its further accumulation4 ,we should then have the submerged reef forming an external and upper rim of rock1 and beneath this portion of the sandy bottom of the old lagoon1 intersected by deep-water channels or breaches1 and thus formed into separate marginal banks2 and these would be cut off by steep slopes1 overhanging the central space1 worn down by the passage of the oceanic currents4 ,by these means1 ,i have scarcely any doubt that the ,great ,chagos ,bank has originated1--a structure which at first appeared to me far more anomalous than any ,i had met with4 ,the process of formation is nearly the same with that1 by which ,mahlos ,mahdoo had been trisected2 but in the ,chagos ,bank the channels of the oceanic currents entering at several different quarters1 have united in a central space4 ,this great atoll-formed bank appears to be in an early stage of disseverment2 should the work of subsidence go on1 from the submerged and dead condition of the whole reef1 and the imperfection of the south-east quarter a mere wreck would probably be left4 ,the ,pitt's ,bank1 situated not far southward1 appears to be precisely in this state2 it consists of a moderately level1 oblong bank of sand1 lying from #aj to #bj fathoms beneath the surface1 with two sides protected by a narrow ledge of rock which is submerged between #e and #h fathoms4 ,a little further south1 at about the same distance as the southern rim of the ,great ,chagos ,bank is from the northern rim1 there are two other small banks with from #aj to #bj fathoms on them2 and not far eastward soundings were struck on a sandy bottom1 with between #aaj and #ade fathoms4 ,the northern portion with its ledge-like margin1 closely resembles any one segment of the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 between two of the deep-water channels1 and the scattered banks1 southward appear to be the last wrecks of less perfect portions4 ,i have examined with care the charts of the ,indian and ,pacific ,oceans1 and have now brought before the reader all the examples1 which ,i have met with1 of reefs differing from the type of the class to which they belong2 and ,i think it has been satisfactorily shown1 that they are all included in our theory1 modified by occasional accidents which might have been anticipated as probable4 ,in this course we have seen1 that in the lapse of ages encircling barrier-reefs are occasionally converted into atolls1 the name of atoll being properly applicable1 at the moment when the last pinnacle of encircled land sinks beneath the surface of the sea4 ,we have1 also1 seen that large atolls during the progressive subsidence of the areas in which they stand1 sometimes become dissevered into smaller ones2 at other times1 the reef-building polypifers having entirely perished1 atolls are converted into atoll-formed banks of dead rock2 and these again through further subsidence and the accumulation of sediment modified by the force of the oceanic currents1 pass into level banks with scarcely any distinguishing character4 ,thus may the history of an atoll be followed from its first origin1 through the occasional accidents of its existence1 to its destruction and final obliteration4 ,objections to the theory of the formation of ,atolls and ,barrier-reefs4--,the vast amount of subsidence1 both horizontally or in area1 and vertically or in depth1 necessary to have submerged every mountain1 even the highest1 throughout the immense spaces of ocean interspersed with atolls1 will probably strike most people as a formidable objection to my theory4 ,but as continents1 as large as the spaces supposed to have subsided1 have been raised above the level of the sea1--as whole regions are now rising1 for instance1 in ,scandinavia and ,south ,america1--and as no reason can be assigned1 why subsidences should not have occurred in some parts of the earth's crust on as great a scale both in extent and amount as those of elevation1 objections of this nature strike me as of little force4 ,the remarkable point is that movements to such an extent should have taken place within a period1 during which the polypifers have continued adding matter on and above the same reefs4 ,another and less obvious objection to the theory will perhaps be advanced from the circumstance1 of the lagoons within atolls and within barrier-reefs never having become in any one instance during prolonged subsidences of a greater depth than sixty fathoms1 and seldom more than forty fathoms2 but we already admit1 if the theory be worth considering1 that the rate of subsidence has not exceeded that of the upward growth of the coral on the exterior margin2 we are1 therefore1 only further required to admit1 that the subsidence has not exceeded in rate the filling up of the interior spaces by the growth of the corals living there1 and by the accumulation of sediment4 ,as this filling up must take place very slowly within barrier-reefs lying far from the land1 and within atolls which are of large dimensions and which have open lagoons with very few reefs1 we are led to conclude that the subsidence thus counter-balanced1 must have been slow in an extraordinary degree2 a conclusion which accords with our only means1 namely1 with what is known of the rate and manner of recent elevatory movements1 of judging by analogy what is the probable rate of subsidence4 ,in this chapter it has1 ,i think1 been shown1 that the theory of subsidence1 which we were compelled to receive from the necessity of giving to the corals1 in certain large areas1 foundations at the requisite depth1 explains both the normal structure and the less regular forms of those two great classes of reefs1 which have justly excited the astonishment of all persons who have sailed through the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans4 ,but further to test the truth of the theory1 a crowd of questions will occur to the reader3 ,do the different kinds of reefs1 which have been produced by the same kind of movement1 generally lie within the same areas8 ,what is their relation of form and position1--for instance1 do adjoining groups of atolls1 and the separate atolls in these groups1 bear the same relation to each other which islands do in common archipelagoes8 ,have we reason to believe1 that where there are fringing-reefs1 there has not lately been subsidence2 or1 for it is almost our only way of ascertaining this point1 are there frequently proofs of recent elevation8 ,can we by this means account for the presence of certain classes of reefs in some large areas1 and their entire absence in others8 ,do the areas which have subsided1 as indicated by the presence of atolls and barrier-reefs1 and the areas which have remained stationary or have been upraised1 as shown by fringing-reefs1 bear any determinate relation to each other2 and are the dimensions of these areas such as harmonise with the greatness of the subterranean changes1 which1 it must be supposed1 have lately taken place beneath them8 ,is there any connection between the movements thus indicated1 and recent volcanic action8 ,all these questions ought to receive answers in accordance with the theory2 and if this can be satisfactorily shown1 not only is the theory confirmed1 but as deductions1 the answers are in themselves important4 ,under this latter point of view1 these questions will be chiefly considered in the following chapter4#ag #ag ,i may take this opportunity of briefly considering the appearances1 which would probably be presented by a vertical and deep section across a coral formation 7referring chiefly to an atoll71 formed by the upward growth of coral during successive subsidences4 ,this is a subject worthy of attention1 as a means of comparison with ancient coral-strata4 ,the circumferential parts would consist of massive species1 in a vertical position1 with their interstices filled up with detritus2 but this would be the part most subject to subsequent denudation and removal4 ,it is useless to speculate how large a portion of the exterior annular reef would consist of upright coral1 and how much of fragmentary rock1 for this would depend on many contingencies1--such as on the rate of subsidence1 occasionally allowing a fresh growth of coral to cover the whole surface1 and on the breakers having force sufficient to throw fragments over this same space4 ,the conglomerate which composes the base of the islets1 would 7if not removed by denudation together with the exterior reef on which it rests7 be conspicuous from the size of the fragments1--the different degrees in which they have been rounded1--the presence of fragments of conglomerate torn up1 rounded1 and recemented1--and from the oblique stratification4 ,the corals which lived in the lagoon-reefs at each successive level1 would be preserved upright1 and they would consist of many kinds1 generally much branched4 ,in this part1 however1 a very large proportion of the rock 7and in some cases nearly all of it7 would be formed of sedimentary matter1 either in an excessively fine1 or in a moderately coarse state1 and with the particles almost blended together4 ,the conglomerate which was formed of rounded pieces of the branched corals1 on the shores of the lagoon1 would differ from that formed on the islets and derived from the outer coast2 yet both might have accumulated very near each other4 ,i have seen a conglomerate limestone from ,devonshire like a conglomerate now forming on the shores of the ,maldiva atolls4 ,the stratification taken as a whole1 would be horizontal2 but the conglomerate beds resting on the exterior reef1 and the beds of sandstone on the shores of the lagoon 7and no doubt on the external flanks7 would probably be divided 7as at ,keeling atoll and at ,mauritius7 by numerous layers dipping at considerable angles in different directions4 ,the calcareous sandstone and coral-rock would almost necessarily contain innumerable shells1 echini1 and the bones of fish1 turtle1 and perhaps of birds2 possibly1 also1 the bones of small saurians1 as these animals find their way to the islands far remote from any continent4 ,the large shells of some species of ,tridacna would be found vertically imbedded in the solid rock1 in the position in which they lived4 ,we might expect also to find a mixture of the remains of pelagic and littoral animals in the strata formed in the lagoon1 for pumice and the seeds of plants are floated from distant countries into the lagoons of many atolls3 on the outer coast of ,keeling atoll1 near the mouth of the lagoon1 the case of a pelagic ,pteropodous animal was brought up on the arming of the sounding lead4 ,all the loose blocks of coral on ,keeling atoll were burrowed by vermiform animals2 and as every cavity1 no doubt1 ultimately becomes filled with spathose limestone1 slabs of the rock taken from a considerable depth1 would1 if polished1 probably exhibit the excavations of such burrowing animals4 ,the conglomerate and fine-grained beds of coral-rock would be hard1 sonorous1 white and composed of nearly pure calcareous matter2 in some few parts1 judging from the specimens at ,keeling atoll1 they would probably contain a small quantity of iron4 ,floating pumice and scoriae1 and occasionally stones transported in the root of trees 7see my 8,journal of ,researches10 page #edi7 appear the only sources1 through which foreign matter is brought to coral-formations standing in the open ocean4 ,the area over which sediment is transported from coral-reefs must be considerable3 ,captain ,moresby informs me that during the change of monsoons the sea is discoloured to a considerable distance off the ,maldiva and ,chagos atolls4 ,the sediment of fringing and barrier coral-reefs must be mingled with the mud1 which is brought down from the land1 and is transported seaward through the breaches1 which occur in front of almost every valley4 ,if the atolls of the larger archipelagoes were upraised1 the bed of the ocean being converted into land1 they would form flat-topped mountains1 varying in diameter from a few miles 7the smallest atolls being worn away7 to sixty miles2 and from being horizontally stratified and of similar composition1 they would1 as ,mr4 ,lyell has remarked1 falsely appear as if they had originally been united into one vast continuous mass4 ,such great strata of coral-rock would rarely be associated with erupted volcanic matter1 for this could only take place1 as may be inferred from what follows in the next chapter1 when the area1 in which they were situated1 commenced to rise1 or at least ceased to subside4 ,during the enormous period necessary to effect an elevation of the kind just alluded to1 the surface would necessarily be denuded to a great thickness2 hence it is highly improbable that any fringing-reef1 or even any barrier-reef1 at least of those encircling small islands1 would be preserved4 ,from this same cause1 the strata which were formed within the lagoons of atolls and lagoon-channels of barrier-reefs1 and which must consist in a large part of sedimentary matter1 would more often be preserved to future ages1 than the exterior solid reef1 composed of massive corals in an upright position2 although it is on this exterior part that the present existence and further growth of atolls and barrier-reefs entirely depend4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,on ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,coral-,,reefs ,,with ,,reference ,,to ,,the ,,theory ,,of ,,their ,,formation4 ,description of the coloured map4--,proximity of atolls and barrier-reefs4-- ,relation in form and position of atolls with ordinary islands4--,direct evidence of subsidence difficult to be detected4--,proofs of recent elevation where fringing-reefs occur4--,oscillations of level4--,absence of active volcanoes in the areas of subsidence4--,immensity of the areas which have been elevated and have subsided4--,their relation to the present distribution of the land4--,areas of subsidence elongated1 their intersection and alternation with those of elevation4--,amount and slow rate of the subsidence4--,recapitulation4 ,it will be convenient to give here a short account of the appended map 7,plate ,,iii47 ,inasmuch as the coloured map would have proved too costly to be given in this series1 the indications of colour have been replaced by numbers referring to the dotted groups of reefs1 etc4 ,the author's original wording1 however1 is retained in full1 as it will be easy to refer to the map by the numbers1 and thus the flow of the narrative is undisturbed43 a fuller one1 with the data for colouring each spot1 is reserved for the ,appendix2 and every place there referred to may be found in the ,index4 ,a larger chart would have been desirable2 but1 small as the adjoined one is1 it is the result of many months' labour4 ,i have consulted1 as far as ,i was able1 every original voyage and map2 and the colours were first laid down on charts on a larger scale4 ,the same blue colour1 with merely a difference in the depth of tint1 is used for atolls or lagoon-islands1 and barrier-reefs1 for we have seen1 that as far as the actual coral-formation is concerned1 they have no distinguishing character4 ,fringing-reefs have been coloured red1 for between them on the one hand1 and barrier-reefs and atolls on the other1 there is an important distinction with respect to the depth beneath the surface1 at which we are compelled to believe their foundations lie4 ,the two distinct colours1 therefore1 mark two great types of structure4 ,the dark blue colour represented by 7#c7 in our plate represents atolls and submerged annular reefs1 with deep water in their centres4 ,i have coloured as atolls1 a few low and small coral-islands1 without lagoons2 but this has been done only when it clearly appeared that they originally contained lagoons1 since filled up with sediment3 when there were not good grounds for this belief1 they have been left uncoloured4 ,the pale blue colour represented by 7#b7 represents barrier-reefs4 ,the most obvious character of reefs of this class is the broad and deep-water moat within the reef3 but this1 like the lagoons of small atolls1 is liable to become filled up with detritus and with reefs of delicately branched corals3 when1 therefore1 a reef round the entire circumference of an island extends very far into a profoundly deep sea1 so that it can hardly be confounded with a fringing-reef which must rest on a foundation of rock within a small depth1 it has been coloured pale blue1 although it does not include a deep-water moat3 but this has only been done rarely1 and each case is distinctly mentioned in the ,appendix4 ,the red colour 7#d7 represents reefs fringing the land quite closely where the sea is deep1 and where the bottom is gently inclined extending to a moderate distance from it1 but not having a deep-water moat or lagoon-like space parallel to the shore4 ,it must be remembered that fringing-reefs are frequently breached in front of rivers and valleys by deepish channels1 where mud has been deposited4 ,a space of thirty miles in width has been coloured round or in front of the reefs of each class1 in order that the colours might be conspicuous on the appended map1 which is reduced to so small a scale4 ,the vermillion spots1 and streaks 7#a7 represent volcanoes now in action1 or historically known to have been so4 ,they are chiefly laid down from ,von ,buch's work on the ,canary ,islands2 and my reasons for making a few alterations are given in the note below4#a #a ,i have also made considerable use of the geological part of ,berghaus' 8,physical ,atlas40 ,beginning at the eastern side of the ,pacific1 ,i have added to the number of the volcanoes in the southern part of the ,cordillera1 and have coloured ,juan ,fernandez according to observations collected during the voyage of the ,beagle 78,geological ,transactions10 volume v41 page #fja47 ,i have added a volcano to ,albemarle ,island1 one of the ,galapagos ,archipelago 7the author's 8,journal of ,researches10 page #deg74 ,in the ,sandwich group there are no active volcanoes1 except at ,hawaii2 but the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis informs me1 there are streams of lava apparently modern on ,maui1 having a very recent appearance1 which can be traced to the craters whence they flowed4 ,the same gentleman informs me1 that there is no reason to believe that any active volcano exists in the ,society ,archipelago2 nor are there any known in the ,samoa or ,navigator group1 although some of the streams of lava and craters there appear recent4 ,in the ,friendly group1 the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams says 78,narrative of ,missionary ,enterprise10 page #bi7 that ,toofoa and ,proby ,islands are active volcanoes4 ,i infer from ,hamilton's 8,voyage in the #8,pandora'0 7,page #ie71 that ,proby ,island is synonymous with ,onouafou1 but ,i have not ventured to colour it4 ,there can be no doubt respecting ,toofoa1 and ,captain ,edwards 7,von ,buch1 page #chf7 found the lava of recent eruption at ,amargura still smoking4 ,berghaus marks four active volcanoes actually within the ,friendly group2 but ,i do not know on what authority3 ,i may mention that ,maurelle describes ,latte as having a burnt-up appearance3 ,i have marked only ,toofoa and ,amargura4 ,south of the ,new ,hebrides lies ,matthews ,rock1 which is drawn and described as an active crater in the 8,voyage of the ,astrolabe40 ,between it and the volcano on the eastern side of ,new ,zealand1 lies ,brimstone ,island1 which from the high temperature of the water in the crater1 may be ranked as active 7,berghaus 8,vorbemerk10 ,,ii ,lief4 ,s4 #ef74 ,malte ,brun1 volume xii41 page #bca1 says that there is a volcano near port ,st4 ,vincent in ,new ,caledonia4 ,i believe this to be an error1 arising from a smoke seen on the opposite coast by ,cook 78,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #bc7 which smoke went out at night4 ,the ,mariana ,islands1 especially the northern ones1 contain many craters 7see ,freycinet's 8,hydrog4 ,descript407 which are not active4 ,von ,buch1 however1 states 7page #dfb7 on the authority of ,la ,peyrouse1 that there are no less than seven volcanoes between these islands and ,japan4 ,gemelli ,creri 7,churchill's 8,collect40 volume iv41 page #deh71 says there are two active volcanoes in latitude #bc #cj1 and in latitude #bd3 but ,i have not coloured them4 ,from the statements in ,beechey's 8,voyage0 7page #eah1 #dto edition7 ,i have coloured one in the northern part of the ,bonin group4 ,m4 ,s4 ,julien has clearly made out from ,chinese manuscripts not very ancient 78,comptes ,rendus10 #ahdj1 page #hcb71 that there are two active volcanoes on the eastern side of ,formosa4 ,in ,torres ,straits1 on ,cap ,island 7#i #dh ,s41 #adb #ci ,e47 a volcano was seen burning with great violence in #agic by ,captain ,bampton 7see ,introduction to ,flinders' 8,voyage10 page #da74 ,mr4 ,m',clelland 7,report of ,committee for investigating ,coal in ,india1 page #ci7 has shown that the volcanic band passing through ,barren ,island must be extended northwards4 ,it appears by an old chart1 that ,cheduba was once an active volcano 7see also 8,silliman's ,north ,american ,journal01 volume xxxviii41 page #che74 ,in ,berghaus' 8,physical ,atlas10 #ahdj1 ,no4 #g of ,geological ,part1 a volcano on the coast of ,pondicherry is said to have burst forth in #ageg4 ,ordinaire 78,hist4 ,nat4 des ,volcans10 page #bah7 says that there is one at the mouth of the ,persian ,gulf1 but ,i have not coloured it1 as he gives no particulars4 ,a volcano in ,amsterdam1 or ,st4 ,paul's1 in the southern part of the ,indian ,ocean1 has been seen 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahch1 page #hdb7 in action4 ,dr4 ,j4 ,allan1 of ,forres1 informs me in a letter1 that when he was at ,joanna1 he saw at night flames apparently volcanic1 issuing from the chief ,comoro ,island1 and that the ,arabs assured him that they were volcanic1 adding that the volcano burned more during the wet season4 ,i have marked this as a volcano1 though with some hesitation1 on account of the possibility of the flame arising from gaseous sources4 ,the uncoloured coasts consist1 first and chiefly1 of those1 where there are no coral-reefs1 or such small portions as to be quite insignificant4 ,secondly1 of those coasts where there are reefs1 but where the sea is very shallow1 for in this case the reefs generally lie far from the land1 and become very irregular1 in their forms3 where they have not become irregular1 they have been coloured4 thirdly1 if ,i had the means of ascertaining the fact1 ,i should not colour a reef merely coating the edges of a submarine crater1 or of a level submerged bank2 for such superficial formations differ essentially1 even when not in external appearance1 from reefs whose foundations as well as superficies have been wholly formed by the growth of coral4 ,fourthly1 in the ,red ,sea1 and within some parts of the ,east ,indian ,archipelago 7if the imperfect charts of the latter can be trusted71 there are many scattered reefs1 of small size1 represented in the chart by mere dots1 which rise out of deep water3 these cannot be arranged under either of the three classes3 in the ,red ,sea1 however1 some of these little reefs1 from their position1 seem once to have formed parts of a continuous barrier4 ,there exist1 also1 scattered in the open ocean1 some linear and irregularly formed strips of coral-reef1 which1 as shown in the last chapter1 are probably allied in their origin to atolls2 but as they do not belong to that class1 they have not been coloured2 they are very few in number and of insignificant dimensions4 ,lastly1 some reefs are left uncoloured from the want of information respecting them1 and some because they are of an intermediate structure between the barrier and fringing classes4 ,the value of the map is lessened1 in proportion to the number of reefs which ,i have been obliged to leave uncoloured1 although1 in a theoretical point of view1 few of them present any great difficulty3 but their number is not very great1 as will be found by comparing the map with the statements in the ,appendix4 ,i have experienced more difficulty in colouring fringing-reefs than in colouring barrier-reefs1 as the former1 from their much less dimensions1 have less attracted the attention of navigators4 ,as ,i have had to seek my information from all kinds of sources1 and often from indirect ones1 ,i do not venture to hope that the map is free from many errors4 ,nevertheless1 ,i trust it will give an approximately correct view of the general distribution of the coral-reefs over the whole world 7with the exception of some fringing-reefs on the coast of ,brazil1 not included within the limits of the map71 and of their arrangement into the three great classes1 which1 though necessarily very imperfect from the nature of the objects classified1 have been adopted by most voyagers4 ,i may further remark1 that the dark blue colour represents land entirely composed of coral-rock2 the pale blue1 land with a wide and thick border of coral-rock2 and the red1 a mere narrow fringe of coral-rock4 ,looking now at the map under the theoretical point of view indicated in the last chapter1 the two blue tints signify that the foundations of the reefs thus coloured have subsided to a considerable amount1 at a slower rate than that of the upward growth of the corals1 and that probably in many cases they are still subsiding4 ,the red signifies that the shores which support fringing-reefs have not subsided 7at least to any considerable amount1 for the effects of a subsidence on a small scale would in no case be distinguishable72 but that they have remained nearly stationary since the period when they first became fringed by reefs2 or that they are now rising or have been upraised1 with new lines of reefs successively formed on them3 these latter alternatives are obviously implied1 as newly formed lines of shore1 after elevations of the land1 would be in the same state with respect to the growth of fringing-reefs1 as stationary coasts4 ,if during the prolonged subsidence of a shore1 coral-reefs grew for the first time on it1 or if an old barrier-reef were destroyed and submerged1 and new reefs became attached to the land1 these would necessarily at first belong to the fringing class1 and1 therefore1 be coloured red1 although the coast was sinking3 but ,i have no reason to believe1 that from this source of error1 any coast has been coloured wrongly with respect to movement indicated4 ,well characterised atolls and encircling barrier-reefs1 where several occur in a group1 or a single barrier-reef if of large dimensions1 leave scarcely any doubt on the mind respecting the movement by which they have been produced2 and even a small amount of subsequent elevation is soon betrayed4 ,the evidence from a single atoll or a single encircling barrier-reef1 must be received with some caution1 for the former may possibly be based upon a submerged crater or bank1 and the latter on a submerged margin of sediment1 or of worn-down rock4 ,from these remarks we may with greater certainty infer that the spaces1 especially the larger ones1 tinted blue in the map1 have subsided1 than that the red spaces have remained stationary1 or have been upraised4 ,on the grouping of the different classes of reefs4--,having made these preliminary remarks1 ,i will consider first how far the grouping of the different kinds of coral-islands and reefs is corroborative of the truth of the theory4 ,a glance at the map shows that the reefs1 coloured blue and red1 produced under widely different conditions1 are not indiscriminately mixed together4 ,atolls and barrier-reefs1 on the other hand1 as may be seen by the two blue tints1 generally lie near each other2 and this would be the natural result of both having been produced during the subsidence of the areas in which they stand4 ,thus1 the largest group of encircled islands is that of the ,society ,archipelago2 and these islands are surrounded by atolls1 and only separated by a narrow space from the large group of ,low atolls4 ,in the midst of the ,caroline atolls1 there are three fine encircled islands4 ,the northern point of the barrier-reef of ,new ,caledonia seems itself1 as before remarked1 to form a complete large atoll4 ,the great ,australian barrier is described as including both atolls and small encircled islands4 ,captain ,king#b mentions many atoll-formed and encircling coral-reefs1 some of which lie within the barrier1 and others may be said 7for instance between latitude #af and #ac7 to form part of it4 ,flinders#c has described an atoll-formed reef in latitude #aj1 seven miles long and from one to three broad1 resembling a boot in shape1 with apparently very deep water within4 ,eight miles westward of this1 and forming part of the barrier1 lie the ,murray ,islands1 which are high and are encircled4 ,in the ,corallian ,sea1 between the two great barriers of ,australia and ,new ,caledonia1 there are many low islets and coral-reefs1 some of which are annular1 or horse-shoe shaped4 ,observing the smallness of the scale of the map1 the parallels of latitude being nine hundred miles apart1 we see that none of the large groups of reefs and islands supposed to have been produced by long-continued subsidence1 lie near extensive lines of coast coloured red1 which are supposed to have remained stationary since the growth of their reefs1 or to have been upraised and new lines of reefs formed on them4 ,where the red and blue circles do occur near each other1 ,i am able1 in several instances1 to show that there have been oscillations of level1 subsidence having preceded the elevation of the red spots2 and elevation having preceded the subsidence of the blue spots3 and in this case the juxtaposition of reefs belonging to the two great types of structure is little surprising4 ,we may1 therefore1 conclude that the proximity in the same areas of the two classes of reefs1 which owe their origin to the subsidence of the earth's crust1 and their separation from those formed during its stationary or uprising condition1 holds good to the full extent1 which might have been anticipated by our theory4 #b ,sailing directions1 appended to volume ii4 of his 8,surveying ,voyage to ,australia40 #c 8,voyage to ,terra ,australis10 volume ii4 page #ccf4 ,as groups of atolls have originated in the upward growth1 at each fresh sinking of the land1 of those reefs which primarily fringed the shores of one great island1 or of several smaller ones2 so we might expect that these rings of coral-rock1 like so many rude outline charts1 will still retain some traces of the general form1 or at least general range1 of the land1 round which they were first modelled4 ,that this is the case with the atolls in the ,southern ,pacific as far as their range is concerned1 seems highly probable1 when we observe that the three principal groups are directed in north-west and south-east lines1 and that nearly all the land in the ,s4 ,pacific ranges in this same direction2 namely1 ,n4 ,western ,australia1 ,new ,caledonia1 the northern half of ,new ,zealand1 the ,new ,hebrides1 ,saloman1 ,navigator1 ,society1 ,marquesas1 and ,austral archipelagoes3 in the ,northern ,pacific1 the ,caroline atolls abut against the north-west line of the ,marshall atolls1 much in the same manner as the east and west line of islands from ,ceram to ,new ,britain do on ,new ,ireland3 in the ,indian ,ocean the ,laccadive and ,maldiva atolls extend nearly parallel to the western and mountainous coast of ,india4 ,in most respects1 there is a perfect resemblance with ordinary islands in the grouping of atolls and in their form3 thus the outline of all the larger groups is elongated2 and the greater number of the individual atolls are elongated in the same direction with the group1 in which they stand4 ,the ,chagos group is less elongated than is usual with other groups1 and the individual atolls in it are likewise but little elongated2 this is strikingly seen by comparing them with the neighbouring ,maldiva atolls4 ,in the ,marshall and ,maldiva archipelagoes1 the atolls are ranged in two parallel lines1 like the mountains in a great double mountain-chain4 ,some of the atolls1 in the larger archipelagoes1 stand so near to each other1 and have such an evident relationship in form1 that they compose little sub-groups3 in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 one such sub-group consists of ,pouynipte1 a lofty island encircled by a barrier-reef1 and separated by a channel only four miles and a half wide from ,andeema atoll1 with a second atoll a little further off4 ,in all these respects an examination of a series of charts will show how perfectly groups of atolls resemble groups of common islands4 ,on the direct evidence of the blue spaces in the map having subsided during the upward growth of the reefs so coloured1 and of the red spaces having remained stationary1 or having been upraised4--,with respect to subsidence1 ,i have shown in the last chapter1 that we cannot expect to obtain in countries inhabited only by semi-civilised races1 demonstrative proofs of a movement1 which invariably tends to conceal its own evidence4 ,but on the coral-islands supposed to have been produced by subsidence1 we have proofs of changes in their external appearance--of a round of decay and renovation--of the last vestiges of land on some--of its first commencement on others3 we hear of storms desolating them to the astonishment of their inhabitants3 we know by the great fissures with which some of them are traversed1 and by the earthquakes felt under others1 that subterranean disturbances of some kind are in progress4 ,these facts1 if not directly connected with subsidence1 as ,i believe they are1 at least show how difficult it would be to discover proofs of such movement by ordinary means4 ,at ,keeling atoll1 however1 ,i have described some appearances1 which seem directly to show that subsidence did take place there during the late earthquakes4 ,vanikoro1 according to ,chevalier ,dillon1#d is often violently shaken by earthquakes1 and there1 the unusual depth of the channel between the shore and the reef1--the almost entire absence of islets on the reef1-- its wall-like structure on the inner side1 and the small quantity of low alluvial land at the foot of the mountains1 all seem to show that this island has not remained long at its present level1 with the lagoon-channel subjected to the accumulation of sediment1 and the reef to the wear and tear of the breakers4 ,at the ,society ,archipelago1 on the other hand1 where a slight tremor is only rarely felt1 the shoaliness of the lagoon-channels round some of the islands1 the number of islets formed on the reefs of others1 and the broad belt of low land at the foot of the mountains1 indicate that1 although there must have been great subsidence to have produced the barrier-reefs1 there has since elapsed a long stationary period4#e #d ,see ,captain ,dillon's 8,voyage in search of ,la ,peyrouse40 ,m4 ,cordier in his 8,report on the ,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'0 7page cxi41 volume i471 speaking of ,vanikoro1 says the shores are surrounded by reefs of madrepore1 8qu'on assure tre de formation tout-a-fait moderne40 ,i have in vain endeavoured to learn some further particulars about this remarkable passage4 ,i may here add1 that according to our theory1 the island of ,pouynipte 7,plate ,i41 ,figure #g71 in the ,caroline ,archipelago1 being encircled by a barrier-reef1 must have subsided4 ,in the 8,new ,s4 ,wales ,lit4 ,advert40 ,february #ahce 7which ,i have seen through the favour of ,dr4 ,lloghtsky71 there is an account of this island 7subsequently confirmed by ,mr4 ,campbell71 in which it is said1 8,at the ,n4,e4 end1 at a place called ,tamen1 there are ruins of a town1 now only accessible by boats1 the waves reaching to the steps of the houses40 ,judging from this passage1 one would be tempted to conclude that the island must have subsided1 since these houses were built4 ,i may1 also1 here append a statement in ,malte ,brun 7volume ix41 page #gge1 given without any authority71 that the sea gains in an extraordinary manner on the coast of ,cochin ,china1 which lies in front and near the subsiding coral-reefs in the ,china ,sea3 as the coast is granitic1 and not alluvial1 it is scarcely possible that the encroachment of the sea can be owing to the washing away of the land2 and if so1 it must be due to subsidence4 #e ,mr4 ,couthouy states 78,remarks10 page #dd7 that at ,tahiti and ,eimeo the space between the reef and the shore has been nearly filled up by the extension of those coral-reefs1 which within most barrier-reefs merely fringe the land4 ,from this circumstance1 he arrives at the same conclusion as ,i have done1 that the ,society ,islands since their subsidence1 have remained stationary during a long period2 but he further believes that they have recently commenced rising1 as well as the whole area of the ,low ,archipelago4 ,he does not give any detailed proofs regarding the elevation of the ,society ,islands1 but ,i shall refer to this subject in another part of this chapter4 ,before making some further comments1 ,i may observe how satisfactory it is to me1 to find ,mr4 ,couthouy affirming1 that 8having personally examined a large number of coral-islands1 and also residing eight months among the volcanic class1 having shore and partially encircling reefs1 ,i may be permitted to state that my own observations have impressed a conviction of the correctness of the theory of ,mr4 ,darwin40 ,this gentleman believes1 that subsequently to the subsidence by which the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago were produced1 the whole area has been elevated to the amount of a few feet2 this would indeed be a remarkable fact2 but as far as ,i am able to judge1 the grounds of his conclusion are not sufficiently strong4 ,he states that he found in almost every atoll which he visited1 the shores of the lagoon raised from eighteen to thirty inches above the sea-level1 and containing imbedded ,tridacnae and corals standing as they grew2 some of the corals were dead in their upper parts1 but below a certain line they continued to flourish4 ,in the lagoons1 also1 he frequently met with clusters of ,madrepore1 with their extremities standing from one inch to a foot above the surface of the water4 ,now1 these appearances are exactly what ,i should have expected1 without any subsequent elevation having taken place2 and ,i think ,mr4 ,couthouy has not borne in mind the indisputable fact1 that corals1 when constantly bathed by the surf1 can exist at a higher level than in quite tranquil water1 as in a lagoon4 ,as long1 therefore1 as the waves continued at low water to break entirely over parts of the annular reef of an atoll1 submerged to a small depth1 the corals and shells attached on these parts might continue living at a level above the smooth surface of the lagoon1 into which the waves rolled2 but as soon as the outer edge of the reef grew up to its utmost possible height1 or if the reef were very broad nearly to that height1 the force of the breakers would be checked1 and the corals and shells on the inner parts near the lagoon would occasionally be left dry1 and thus be partially or wholly destroyed4 ,even in atolls1 which have not lately subsided1 if the outer margin of the reef continued to increase in breadth seaward 7each fresh zone of corals rising to the same vertical height as at ,keeling atoll71 the line where the waves broke most heavily would advance outwards1 and therefore the corals1 which when living near the margin1 were washed by the breaking waves during the whole of each tide1 would cease being so1 and would therefore be left on the backward part of the reef standing exposed and dead4 ,the case of the madrepores in the lagoons with the tops of their branches exposed1 seems to be an analogous fact1 to the great fields of dead but upright corals in the lagoon of ,keeling atoll2 a condition of things which ,i have endeavoured to show1 has resulted from the lagoon having become more and more enclosed and choked up with reefs1 so that during high winds1 the rising of the tide 7as observed by the inhabitants7 is checked1 and the corals1 which had formerly grown to the greatest possible height1 are occasionally exposed1 and thus are killed3 and this is a condition of things1 towards which almost every atoll in the intervals of its subsidence must be tending4 ,or if we look to the state of an atoll directly after a subsidence of some fathoms1 the waves would roll heavily over the entire circumference of the reef1 and the surface of the lagoon would1 like the ocean1 never be quite at rest1 and therefore the corals in the lagoon1 from being constantly laved by the rippling water1 might extend their branches to a little greater height than they could1 when the lagoon became enclosed and protected4 ,christmas atoll 7#b ,n4 latitude7 which has a very shallow lagoon1 and differs in several respects from most atolls1 possibly may have been elevated recently2 but its highest part appears 7,couthouy1 page #df7 to be only ten feet above the sea-level4 ,the facts of a second class1 adduced by ,mr4 ,couthouy1 in support of the alleged recent elevation of the ,low ,archipelago1 are not all 7especially those referring to a shelf of rock7 quite intelligible to me2 he believes that certain enormous fragments of rock on the reef1 must have been moved into their present position1 when the reef was at a lower level2 but here again the force of the breakers on any inner point of the reef being diminished by its outward growth without any change in its level1 has not1 ,i think1 been borne in mind4 ,we should1 also1 not overlook the occasional agency of waves caused by earthquakes and hurricanes4 ,mr4 ,couthouy further argues1 that since these great fragments were deposited and fixed on the reef1 they have been elevated2 he infers this from the greatest amount of erosion not being near their bases1 where they are unceasingly washed by the reflux of the tides1 but at some height on their sides1 near the line of high-water mark1 as shown in an accompanying diagram4 ,my former remark again applies here1 with this further observation1 that as the waves have to roll over a wide space of reef before they reach the fragments1 their force must be greatly increased with the increasing depth of water as the tide rises1 and therefore ,i should have expected that the chief line of present erosion would have coincided with the line of high-water mark2 and if the reef had grown outwards1 that there would have been lines of erosion at greater heights4 ,the conclusion1 to which ,i am finally led by the interesting observations of ,mr4 ,couthouy is1 that the atolls in the ,low ,archipelago have1 like the ,society ,islands1 remained at a stationary level for a long period3 and this probably is the ordinary course of events1 subsidence supervening after long intervals of rest4 ,turning now to the red colour2 as on our map1 the areas which have sunk slowly downwards to great depths are many and large1 we might naturally have been led to conjecture1 that with such great changes of level in progress1 the coasts which have been fringed probably for ages 7for we have no reason to believe that coral-reefs are of short duration71 would not have remained all this time stationary1 but would frequently have undergone movements of elevation4 ,this supposition1 we shall immediately see1 holds good to a remarkable extent2 and although a stationary condition of the land can hardly ever be open to proof1 from the evidence being only negative1 we are1 in some degree1 enabled to ascertain the correctness of the parts coloured red on the map1 by the direct testimony of upraised organic remains of a modern date4 ,before going into the details on this head 7printed in small type71 ,i may mention1 that when reading a memoir on coral formations by ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard#f ,i was astonished to find1 for ,i knew that they had crossed both the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 that their descriptions were applicable only to reefs of the fringing class2 but my astonishment ended satisfactorily1 when ,i discovered that1 by a strange chance1 all the islands which these eminent naturalists had visited1 though several in number1 namely1 the ,mauritius1 ,timor1 ,new ,guinea1 the ,mariana1 and ,sandwich ,archipelagoes1 could be shown by their own statements to have been elevated within a recent geological era4 #f 8,annales des ,sciences ,nat40 tom4 vi41 page #bgi1 etc4 ,in the eastern half of the ,pacific1 the ,sandwich ,islands are all fringed1 and almost every naturalist who has visited them1 has remarked on the abundance of elevated corals and shells1 apparently identical with living species4 ,the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis informs me1 that he has noticed round several parts of ,hawaii1 beds of coral-detritus1 about twenty feet above the level of the sea1 and where the coast is low they extend far inland4 ,upraised coral-rock forms a considerable part of the borders of ,oahu2 and at ,elizabeth ,island#g it composes three strata1 each about ten feet thick4 ,nihau1 which forms the northern1 as ,hawaii does the southern end of the group 7#cej miles in length71 likewise seems to consist of coral and volcanic rocks4 ,mr4 ,couthouy#h has lately described with interesting details1 several upraised beaches1 ancient reefs with their surfaces perfectly preserved1 and beds of recent shells and corals1 at the islands of ,maui1 ,morokai1 ,oahu1 and ,tauai 7or ,kauai7 in this group4 ,mr4 ,pierce1 an intelligent resident at ,oahu1 is convinced1 from changes which have taken place within his memory1 during the last sixteen years1 8that the elevation is at present going forward at a very perceptible rate40 ,the natives at ,kauai state that the land is there gaining rapidly on the sea1 and ,mr4 ,couthouy has no doubt1 from the nature of the strata1 that this has been effected by an elevation of the land4 #g 8,zoology of ,captain ,beechey's ,voyage10 page #agf4 ,see also ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard in 8,annales de ,scien4 ,nat40 tom4 vi4 #h 8,remarks on ,coral ,formations10 page #ea4 ,in the southern part of the ,low ,archipelago1 ,elizabeth ,island is described by ,captain ,beechey1#i as being quite flat1 and about eighty feet in height2 it is entirely composed of dead corals1 forming a honeycombed1 but compact rock4 ,in cases like this1 of an island having exactly the appearance1 which the elevation of any one of the smaller surrounding atolls with a shallow lagoon would present1 one is led to conclude 7with little better reason1 however1 than the improbability of such small and low fabrics lasting1 for an immense period1 exposed to the many destroying agents of nature71 that the elevation has taken place at an epoch not geologically remote4 ,when merely the surface of an island of ordinary formation is strewed with marine bodies1 and that continuously1 or nearly so1 from the beach to a certain height1 and not above that height1 it is exceedingly improbable that such organic remains1 although they may not have been specially examined1 should belong to any ancient period4 ,it is necessary to bear these remarks in mind1 in considering the evidence of the elevatory movements in the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 as it does not often rest on specific determinations1 and therefore should be received with caution4 ,six of the ,cook and ,austral ,islands 7,s4,w4 of the ,society group71 are fringed2 of these1 five were described to me by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams1 as formed of coral-rock1 associated with some basalt in ,mangaia71 and the sixth as lofty and basaltic4 ,mangaia is nearly three hundred feet high1 with a level summit2 and according to ,mr4 ,s4 ,wilson#aj it is an upraised reef2 8and there are in the central hollow1 formerly the bed of the lagoon1 many scattered patches of coral-rock1 some of them raised to a height of forty feet40 ,these knolls of coral-rock were evidently once separate reefs in the lagoon of an atoll4 ,mr4 ,martens1 at ,sydney1 informed me that this island is surrounded by a terrace-like plain at about the height of a hundred feet1 which probably marks a pause in its elevation4 ,from these facts we may infer1 perhaps1 that the ,cook and ,austral ,islands have been upheaved at a period probably not very remote4 #i ,beechey's 8,voyage in the ,pacific10 page #df1 #dto edition4 #aj ,couthouy's 8,remarks10 page #cd4 ,savage ,island 7,s4,e4 of the ,friendly group71 is about forty feet in height4 ,forster#aa describes the plants as already growing out of the dead1 but still upright and spreading trees of coral2 and the younger ,forster#ab believes that an ancient lagoon is now represented by a central plain2 here we cannot doubt that the elevatory forces have recently acted4 ,the same conclusion may be extended1 though with somewhat less certainty1 to the islands of the ,friendly ,group1 which have been well described in the second and third voyages of ,cook4 ,the surface of ,tongatabou is low and level1 but with some parts a hundred feet high2 the whole consists of coral-rock1 8which yet shows the cavities and irregularities worn into it by the action of the tides40#ac ,on ,eoua the same appearances were noticed at an elevation of between two hundred and three hundred feet4 ,vavao1 also1 at the opposite or northern end of the group1 consists1 according to the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams1 of coral-rock4 ,tongatabou1 with its northern extensive reefs1 resembles either an upraised atoll with one half originally imperfect1 or one unequally elevated2 and ,anamouka1 an atoll equally elevated4 ,this latter island contains#ad in its centre a salt-water lake1 about a mile-and-a-half in diameter1 without any communication with the sea1 and around it the land rises gradually like a bank2 the highest part is only between twenty and thirty feet2 but on this part1 as well as on the rest of the land 7which1 as ,cook observes1 rises above the height of true lagoon-islands71 coral-rock1 like that on the beach1 was found4 ,in the ,navigator ,archipelago1 ,mr4 ,couthouy#ae found on ,manua many and very large fragments of coral at the height of eighty feet1 8on a steep hill-side1 rising half a mile inland from a low sandy plain abounding in marine remains40 ,the fragments were embedded in a mixture of decomposed lava and sand4 ,it is not stated whether they were accompanied by shells1 or whether the corals resembled recent species2 as these remains were embedded they possibly may belong to a remote epoch2 but ,i presume this was not the opinion of ,mr4 ,couthouy4 ,earthquakes are very frequent in this archipelago4 #aa 8,observations made during ,voyage round the ,world10 page #adg4 #ab 8,voyage10 volume ii41 page #afc4 #ac ,cook's 8,third ,voyage0 7#dto edition71 volume i41 page #cad4 #ad ,ibid41 volume i41 page #bce4 #ae 8,remarks on ,coral-,formations10 page #ej4 ,still proceeding westward we come to the ,new ,hebrides2 on these islands1 ,mr4 ,g4 ,bennett 7author of 8,wanderings in ,new ,south ,wales071 informs me he found much coral at a great altitude1 which he considered of recent origin4 ,respecting ,santa ,cruz1 and the ,salomon ,archipelago1 ,i have no information2 but at ,new ,ireland1 which forms the northern point of the latter chain1 both ,labillardire and ,lesson have described large beds of an apparently very modern madreporitic rock1 with the form of the corals little altered4 ,the latter author#af states that this formation composes a newer line of coast1 modelled round an ancient one4 ,there only remains to be described in the ,pacific1 that curved line of fringed islands1 of which the ,marianas form the main part4 ,of these ,guam1 ,rota1 ,tiniam1 ,saypan1 and some islets farther north1 are described by ,quoy and ,gaimard1#ag and ,chamisso1#ah as chiefly composed of madreporitic limestone1 which attains a considerable elevation1 and is in several cases worn into successively rising cliffs3 the two former naturalists seem to have compared the corals and shells with the existing ones1 and state that they are of recent species4 ,fais1 which lies in the prolonged line of the ,marianas1 is the only island in this part of the sea which is fringed2 it is ninety feet high1 and consists entirely of madreporitic rock4#ai #af 8,voyage de la #8,coquille'10 ,part4 ,zoolog4 #ag ,freycinet's 8,voyage autour du ,monde40 ,see also the 8,hydrographical ,memoir10 page #bae4 #ah ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage40 #ai ,lutk's 8,voyage10 volume ii41 page #cjd4 ,in the ,east ,indian ,archipelago1 many authors have recorded proofs of recent elevation4 ,m4 ,lesson#bj states1 that near ,port ,dory1 on the north coast of ,new ,guinea1 the shores are flanked1 to the height of #aej feet1 by madreporitic strata of modern date4 ,he mentions similar formations at ,waigiou1 ,amboina1 ,bourou1 ,ceram1 ,sonda1 and ,timor3 at this latter place1 ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard#ba have likewise described the primitive rocks1 as coated to a considerable height with coral4 ,some small islets eastward of ,timor are said in ,kolff's 8,voyage10#bb to resemble small coral islets upraised some feet above the sea4 ,dr4 ,malcolmson informs me that ,dr4 ,hardie found in ,java an extensive formation1 containing an abundance of shells1 of which the greater part appear to be of existing species4 ,dr4 ,jack#bc has described some upraised shells and corals1 apparently recent1 on ,pulo ,nias off ,sumatra2 and ,marsden relates in his history of this great island1 that the names of many promontories1 show that they were originally islands4 ,on part of the west coast of ,borneo and at the ,sooloo ,islands1 the form of the land1 the nature of the soil1 and the water-washed rocks1 present appearances#bd 7although it is doubtful whether such vague evidence is worthy of mention71 of having recently been covered by the sea2 and the inhabitants of the ,sooloo ,islands believe that this has been the case4 ,mr4 ,cuming1 who has lately investigated1 with so much success1 the natural history of the ,phillippines1 found near ,cabagan1 in ,luzon1 about fifty feet above the level of the ,r4 ,cagayan1 and seventy miles from its mouth1 a large bed of fossil shells3 these1 he informs me1 are of the same species with those now existing on the shores of the neighbouring islands4 ,from the accounts given us by ,captain ,basil ,hall and ,captain ,beechey#be of the lines of inland reefs1 and walls of coral-rock worn into caves1 above the present reach of the waves1 at the ,loo ,choo ,islands1 there can be little doubt that they have been upraised at no very remote period4 #bj ,partie ,zoolog41 8,voyage de la #8,coquille'40 #ba 8,ann4 des ,scien4 ,nat40 tom4 vi41 page #bha4 #bb ,translated by ,windsor ,earl1 chapters vi41 vii4 #bc 8,geolog4 ,transact40 #bnd series1 volume i41 page #djc4 ,on the ,peninsula of ,malacca1 in front of ,pinang1 #e #cj ,n41 ,dr4 ,ward collected some shells1 which ,dr4 ,malcolmson informs me1 although not compared with existing species1 had a recent appearance4 ,dr4 ,ward describes in this neighbourhood 78,trans4 ,asiat4 ,soc40 volume xviii41 part ii41 page #aff7 a single water-worn rock1 with a conglomerate of sea-shells at its base1 situated six miles inland1 which1 according to the traditions of the natives1 was once surrounded by the sea4 ,captain ,low has also described 7,ibid41 part i41 page #aca7 mounds of shells lying two miles inland on this line of coast4 #bd 8,notices of the ,east ,indian ,arch40 ,singapore1 #ahbh1 page #f1 and ,append41 page #dc4 #be ,captain ,b4 ,hall1 8,voyage to ,loo ,choo10 ,append41 pages xxi4 and xxv4 ,captain ,beechey's 8,voyage10 page #dif4 ,dr4 ,davy#bf describes the northern province of ,ceylon as being very low1 and consisting of a limestone with shells and corals of very recent origin2 he adds1 that it does not admit of a doubt that the sea has retired from this district even within the memory of man4 ,there is also some reason for believing that the western shores of ,india1 north of ,ceylon1 have been upraised within the recent period4#bg ,mauritius has certainly been upraised within the recent period1 as ,i have stated in the chapter on fringing-reefs4 ,the northern extremity of ,madagascar is described by ,captain ,owen#bh as formed of madreporitic rock1 as likewise are the shores and outlying islands along an immense space of ,eastern ,africa1 from a little north of the equator for nine hundred miles southward4 ,nothing can be more vague than the expression 8madreporitic rock20 but at the same time it is1 ,i think1 scarcely possible to look at the chart of the linear islets1 which rise to a greater height than can be accounted for by the growth of coral1 in front of the coast1 from the equator to #b ,s41 without feeling convinced that a line of fringing-reefs has been elevated at a period so recent1 that no great changes have since taken place on the surface of this part of the globe4 ,some1 also1 of the higher islands of madreporitic rock on this coast1 for instance ,pemba1 have very singular forms1 which seem to show the combined effect of the growth of coral round submerged banks1 and their subsequent upheaval4 ,dr4 ,allan informs me that he never observed any elevated organic remains on the ,seychelles1 which come under our fringed class4 #bf 8,travels in ,ceylon10 page #ac4 ,this madreporitic formation is mentioned by ,m4 ,cordier in his report to the ,institute 7,may #dth1 #ahci71 on the voyage of the 8,chevrette01 as one of immense extent1 and belonging to the latest tertiary period4 #bg ,dr4 ,benza1 in his 8,journey through the ,n4 ,circars0 7the 8,madras ,lit4 and ,scient4 ,journ40 volume v47 has described a formation with recent fresh-water and marine shells1 occurring at the distance of three or four miles from the present shore4 ,dr4 ,benza1 in conversation with me1 attributed their position to a rise of the land4 ,dr4 ,malcolmson1 however 7and there cannot be a higher authority on the geology of ,india7 informs me that he suspects that these beds may have been formed by the mere action of the waves and currents accumulating sediment4 ,from analogy ,i should much incline to ,dr4 ,benza's opinion4 #bh ,owen's 8,africa10 volume ii41 page #cg1 for ,madagascar2 and for ,s4 ,africa1 volume i41 pages #dab and #dbf4 ,lieutenant ,boteler's narrative contains fuller particulars regarding the coral-rock1 volume i41 page #agd1 and volume ii41 pages #da and #ed4 ,see also ,ruschenberger's 8,voyage round the ,world10 volume i41 page #fj4 ,the nature of the formations round the shores of the ,red ,sea1 as described by several authors1 shows that the whole of this large area has been elevated within a very recent tertiary epoch4 ,a part of this space in the appended map1 is coloured blue1 indicating the presence of barrier-reefs3 on which circumstance ,i shall presently make some remarks4 ,rppell#bi states that the tertiary formation1 of which he has examined the organic remains1 forms a fringe along the shores with a uniform height of from thirty and forty feet from the mouth of the ,gulf of ,suez to about latitude #bf2 but that south of #bf1 the beds attain only the height of from twelve to fifteen feet4 ,this1 however1 can hardly be quite accurate2 although possibly there may be a decrease in the elevation of the shores in the middle parts of the ,red ,sea1 for ,dr4 ,malcolmson 7as he informs me7 collected from the cliffs of ,camaran ,island 7latitude #ae #cj ,s47 shells and corals1 apparently recent1 at a height between thirty and forty feet2 and ,mr4 ,salt 78,travels in ,abyssinia07 describes a similar formation a little southward on the opposite shore at ,amphila4 ,moreover1 near the mouth of the ,gulf of ,suez1 although on the coast opposite to that on which ,dr4 ,rppell says that the modern beds attain a height of only thirty to forty feet1 ,mr4 ,burton#cj found a deposit replete with existing species of shells1 at the height of #bjj feet4 ,in an admirable series of drawings by ,captain ,moresby1 ,i could see how continuously the cliff-bounded low plains of this formation extended with a nearly equable height1 both on the eastern and western shores4 ,the southern coast of ,arabia seems to have been subjected to the same elevatory movement1 for ,dr4 ,malcolmson found at ,sahar low cliffs containing shells and corals1 apparently of recent species4 #bi ,rppell1 8,reise in ,abyssinien10 ,band i41 s4 #ada4 #cj ,lyell's 8,principles of ,geology10 #eth edition1 volume iv41 page #be4 ,the ,persian ,gulf abounds with coral-reefs2 but as it is difficult to distinguish them from sand-banks in this shallow sea1 ,i have coloured only some near the mouth2 towards the head of the gulf ,mr4 ,ainsworth#ca says that the land is worn into terraces1 and that the beds contain organic remains of existing forms4 ,the ,west ,indian ,archipelago of 8fringed0 islands1 alone remains to be mentioned2 evidence of an elevation within a late tertiary epoch of nearly the whole of this great area1 may be found in the works of almost all the naturalists who have visited it4 ,i will give some of the principal references in a note4#cb #ca ,ainsworth's 8,assyria and ,babylon10 page #bag4 #cb ,on ,florida and the north shores of the ,gulf of ,mexico1 ,rogers' 8,report to ,brit4 ,assoc40 volume iii41 page #ad4--,on the shores of ,mexico1 ,humboldt1 8,polit4 ,essay on ,new ,spain10 volume i41 page #fb4 7,i have also some corroborative facts with respect to the shores of ,mexico47--,honduras and the ,antilles1 ,lyell's 8,principles10 #eth edition1 volume iv41 page #bb4--,santa ,cruz and ,barbadoes1 ,prof4 ,hovey1 8,silliman's ,journal01 volume xxxv41 page #gd4--,st4 ,domingo1 ,courrojolles1 8,journ de ,phys40 tom4 liv41 page #ajf4--;,bahamas1 8,united ,service ,journal01 ,no4 lxxi41 pages #bah and #bbd4 ,jamaica1 ,de la ,beche1 8,geol4 ,man40 page #adb4--;,cuba1 ,taylor in 8,lond4 and ,edin4 ,mag40 volume xi41 page #ag4 ,dr4 ,daubeny also1 at a meeting of the ,geolog4 ,soc41 orally described some very modern beds lying on the ,n4,w4 parts of ,cuba4 ,i might have added many other less important references4 ,it is very remarkable on reviewing these details1 to observe in how many instances fringing-reefs round the shores1 have coincided with the existence on the land of upraised organic remains1 which seem1 from evidence more or less satisfactory1 to belong to a late tertiary period4 ,it may1 however1 be objected1 that similar proofs of elevation1 perhaps1 occur on the coasts coloured blue in our map3 but this certainly is not the case with the few following and doubtful exceptions4 ,the entire area of the ,red ,sea appears to have been upraised within a modern period2 nevertheless ,i have been compelled 7though on unsatisfactory evidence1 as given in the ,appendix7 to class the reefs in the middle part1 as barrier-reefs2 should1 however1 the statements prove accurate to the less height of the tertiary bed in this middle part1 compared with the northern and southern districts1 we might well suspect that it had subsided subsequently to the general elevation by which the whole area has been upraised4 ,several authors#cc have stated that they have observed shells and corals high up on the mountains of the ,society ,islands1--a group encircled by barrier-reefs1 and1 therefore1 supposed to have subsided3 at ,tahiti ,mr4 ,stutchbury found on the apex of one of the highest mountains1 between #e1jjj and #g1jjj feet above the level of the sea1 8a distinct and regular stratum of semi-fossil coral40 ,at ,tahiti1 however1 other naturalists1 as well as myself1 have searched in vain at a low level near the coast1 for upraised shells or masses of coral-reef1 where if present they could hardly have been overlooked4 ,from this fact1 ,i concluded that probably the organic remains strewed high up on the surface of the land1 had originally been embedded in the volcanic strata1 and had subsequently been washed out by the rain4 ,i have since heard from the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis1 that the remains which he met with1 were 7as he believes7 interstratified with an argillaceous tuff2 this likewise was the case with the shells observed by the ,rev4 ,d4 ,tyerman at ,huaheine4 ,these remains have not been specifically examined2 they may1 therefore1 and especially the stratum observed by ,mr4 ,stutchbury at an immense height1 be contemporaneous with the first formation of the ,society ,islands1 and be of any degree of antiquity2 or they may have been deposited at some subsequent1 but probably not very recent1 period of elevation2 for if the period had been recent1 the entire surface of the coast land of these islands1 where the reefs are so extensive1 would have been coated with upraised coral1 which certainly is not the case4 ,two of the ,harvey1 or ,cook ,islands1 namely1 ,aitutaki and ,manouai1 are encircled by reefs1 which extend so far from the land1 that ,i have coloured them blue1 although with much hesitation1 as the space within the reef is shallow1 and the outline of the land is not abrupt4 ,these two islands consist of coral-rock2 but ,i have no evidence of their recent elevation1 besides1 the improbability of ,mangaia1 a fringed island in the same group 7but distant #agj miles71 having retained its nearly perfect atoll-like structure1 during any immense lapse of time after its upheaval4 ,the ,red ,sea1 therefore1 is the only area in which we have clear proofs of the recent elevation of a district1 which1 by our theory 7although the barrier-reefs are there not well characterised71 has lately subsided4 ,but we have no reason to be surprised at oscillation1 of level of this kind having occasionally taken place4 ,there can be scarcely any doubt that ,savage1 ,aurora1#cd and ,mangaia ,islands1 and several of the islands in the ,friendly group1 existed originally as atolls1 and these have undoubtedly since been upraised to some height above the level of the sea2 so that by our theory1 there has here1 also1 been an oscillation of level1 --elevation having succeeded subsidence1 instead of1 as in the middle part of the ,red ,sea and at the ,harvey ,islands1 subsidence having probably succeeded recent elevation4 #cc ,ellis1 in his 8,polynesian ,researches10 was the first to call attention to these remains 7volume i41 page #ch71 and the tradition of the natives concerning them4 ,see also ,williams1 8,nar4 of ,missionary ,enterprise10 page #ba2 also ,tyerman and ,g4 ,bennett1 8,journal of ,voyage10 volume i41 page #bac2 also ,mr4 ,couthouy's 8,remarks10 page #ea2 but this principal fact1 namely1 that there is a mass of upraised coral on the narrow peninsula of ,tiarubu1 is from hearsay evidence2 also ,mr4 ,stutchbury1 8,west of ,england ,journal10 ,no4 i41 page #ed4 ,there is a passage in ,von ,zach1 8,corres4 ,astronom40 volume x41 page #bff1 inferring an uprising at ,tahiti1 from a footpath now used1 which was formerly impassable2 but ,i particularly inquired from several native chiefs1 whether they knew of any change of this kind1 and they were unanimous in giving me an answer in the negative4 #cd ,aurora ,island is described by ,mr4 ,couthouy 78,remarks10 page #eh72 it lies #abj miles north-east of ,tahiti2 it is not coloured in the appended map1 because it does not appear to be fringed by living reefs4 ,mr4 ,couthouy describes its summit as 8presenting a broad table-land which declines a few feet towards the centre1 where we may suppose the lagoon to have been placed40 ,it is about two hundred feet in height1 and consists of reef-rock and conglomerate1 with existing species of coral embedded in it4 ,the island has been elevated at two successive periods2 the cliffs being marked halfway up with a horizontal water-worn line of deep excavations4 ,aurora ,island seems closely to resemble in structure ,elizabeth ,island1 at the southern end of the ,low ,archipelago4 ,it is an interesting fact1 that ,fais1 which1 from its composition1 form1 height1 and situation at the western end of the ,caroline ,archipelago1 one is strongly induced to believe existed before its upheaval as an atoll1 lies exactly in the prolongation of the curved line of the ,mariana group1 which we know to be a line of recent elevation4 ,i may add1 that ,elizabeth ,island1 in the southern part of the ,low ,archipelago1 which seems to have had the same kind of origin as ,fais1 lies near ,pitcairn ,island1 the only one in this part of the ocean which is high1 and at the same time not surrounded by an encircling barrier-reef4 ,on the absence of active ,volcanoes in the areas of subsidence1 and on their frequent presence in the areas of elevation4--,before making some concluding remarks on the relations of the spaces coloured blue and red1 it will be convenient to consider the position on our map of the volcanoes historically known to have been in action4 ,it is impossible not to be struck1 first with the absence of volcanoes in the great areas of subsidence tinted pale and dark blue1--namely1 in the central parts of the ,indian ,ocean1 in the ,china ,sea1 in the sea between the barriers of ,australia and ,new ,caledonia1 in the ,caroline1 ,marshall1 ,gilbert1 and ,low ,archipelagoes2 and1 secondly1 with the coincidence of the principal volcanic chains with the parts coloured red1 which indicates the presence of fringing-reefs2 and1 as we have just seen1 the presence in most cases of upraised organic remains of a modern date4 ,i may here remark that the reefs were all coloured before the volcanoes were added to the map1 or indeed before ,i knew of the existence of several of them4 ,the volcano in ,torres ,strait1 at the northern point of ,australia1 is that which lies nearest to a large subsiding area1 although situated #abe miles within the outer margin of the actual barrier-reef4 ,the ,great ,comoro ,island1 which probably contains a volcano1 is only twenty miles distant from the barrier-reef of ,mohila2 ,ambil volcano1 in the ,philippines1 is distant only a little more than sixty miles from the atoll-formed ,appoo reef3 and there are two other volcanoes in the map within ninety miles of circles coloured blue4 ,these few cases1 which thus offer partial exceptions to the rule1 of volcanoes being placed remote from the areas of subsidence1 lie either near single and isolated atolls1 or near small groups of encircled islands2 and these by our theory can have1 in few instances1 subsided to the same amount in depth or area1 as groups of atolls4 ,there is not one active volcano within several hundred miles of an archipelago1 or even a small group of atolls4 ,it is1 therefore1 a striking fact that in the ,friendly ,archipelago1 which owes its origin to the elevation of a group of atolls1 two volcanoes1 and1 perhaps1 others#ce are known to be in action3 on the other hand1 on several of the encircled islands in the ,pacific1 supposed by our theory to have subsided1 there are old craters and streams of lava1 which show the effects of past and ancient eruptions4 ,in these cases1 it would appear as if the volcanoes had come into action1 and had become extinguished on the same spots1 according as the elevating or subsiding movements prevailed4 #ce ,see the note at p4 #aba1 on the authorities for colouring the volcanoes in the appended map4 ,there are some other coasts on the map1 where volcanoes in a state of action concur with proofs of recent elevation1 besides those coloured red from being fringed by coral-reefs4 ,thus ,i hope to show in a future volume1 that nearly the whole line of the west coast of ,south ,america1 which forms the greatest volcanic chain in the world1 from near the equator for a space of between #b1jjj and #c1jjj miles southward1 has undergone an upward movement during a late geological period4 ,the islands on the north-western shores of the ,pacific1 which form the second greatest volcanic chain1 are very imperfectly known2 but ,luzon1 in the ,philippines1 and the ,loo ,choo ,islands1 have been recently elevated2 and at ,kamtschatka#cf there are extensive tertiary beds of modern date4 ,evidence of the same nature1 but not very satisfactory1 may be detected in ,northern ,new ,zealand where there are two volcanoes4 ,the co-existence in other parts of the world of active volcanoes1 with upraised beds of a modern tertiary origin1 will occur to every geologist4#cg ,nevertheless1 until it could be shown that volcanoes were inactive1 or did not exist in subsiding areas1 the conclusion that their distribution depended on the nature of the subterranean movements in progress1 would have been hazardous4 ,but now1 viewing the appended map1 it may1 ,i think1 be considered as almost established1 that volcanoes are often 7not necessarily always7 present in those areas where the subterranean motive power has lately forced1 or is now forcing outwards1 the crust of the earth1 but that they are invariably absent in those1 where the surface has lately subsided or is still subsiding4#ch #cf ,at ,sedanka1 in latitude #eh ,n4 7,von ,buch's 8,descrip4 des ,isles ,canaries10 page #dee74 ,in a forthcoming part1 ,i shall give the evidence referred to with respect to the elevation of ,new ,zealand4 #cg ,during the subterranean disturbances which took place in ,chile1 in #ahce1 ,i have shown 78,geolog4 ,trans40 #bnd ,ser41 vol4 v41 page #fjf7 that at the same moment that a large district was upraised1 volcanic matter burst forth at widely separated points1 through both new and old vents4 #ch ,we may infer from this rule1 that in any old deposit1 which contains interstratified beds of erupted matter1 there was at the period1 and in the area of its formation1 a tendency to an upward movement in the earth's surface1 and certainly no movement of subsidence4 ,on the relations of the areas of ,subsidence and ,elevation4--,the immense surfaces on the map1 which1 both by our theory and by the plain evidence of upraised marine remains1 have undergone a change of level either downwards or upwards during a late period1 is a most remarkable fact4 ,the existence of continents shows that the areas have been immense which at some period have been upraised2 in ,south ,america we may feel sure1 and on the north-western shores of the ,indian ,ocean we may suspect1 that this rising is either now actually in progress1 or has taken place quite recently4 ,by our theory1 we may conclude that the areas are likewise immense which have lately subsided1 or1 judging from the earthquakes occasionally felt and from other appearances1 are now subsiding4 ,the smallness of the scale of our map should not be overlooked3 each of the squares on it contains 7not allowing for the curvature of the earth7 #haj1jjj square miles4 ,look at the space of ocean from near the southern end of the ,low ,archipelago to the northern end of the ,marshall ,archipelago1 a length of #d1ejj miles1 in which1 as far as is known1 every island1 except ,aurora which lies just without the ,low ,archipelago1 is atoll-formed4 ,the eastern and western boundaries of our map are continents1 and they are rising areas3 the central spaces of the great ,indian and ,pacific ,oceans1 are mostly subsiding2 between them1 north of ,australia1 lies the most broken land on the globe1 and there the rising parts are surrounded and penetrated by areas of subsidence1#ci so that the prevailing movements now in progress1 seem to accord with the actual states of surface of the great divisions of the world4 #ci ,i suspect that the ,arru and ,timor-laut ,islands present an included small area of subsidence1 like that of the ,china ,sea1 but ,i have not ventured to colour them from my imperfect information1 as given in the ,appendix4 ,the blue spaces on the map are nearly all elongated2 but it does not necessarily follow from this 7a caution1 for which ,i am indebted to ,mr4 ,lyell71 that the areas of subsidence were likewise elongated2 for the subsidence of a long1 narrow space of the bed of the ocean1 including in it a transverse chain of mountains1 surmounted by atolls1 would only be marked on the map by a transverse blue band4 ,but where a chain of atolls and barrier-reefs lies in an elongated area1 between spaces coloured red1 which therefore have remained stationary or have been upraised1 this must have resulted either from the area of subsidence having originally been elongated 7owing to some tendency in the earth's crust thus to subside71 or from the subsiding area having originally been of an irregular figure1 or as broad as long1 and having since been narrowed by the elevation of neighbouring districts4 ,thus the areas1 which subsided during the formation of the great north and south lines of atolls in the ,indian ,ocean1--of the east and west line of the ,caroline atolls1--and of the north-west and south-east line of the barrier-reefs of ,new ,caledonia and ,louisiade1 must have originally been elongated1 or if not so1 they must have since been made elongated by elevations1 which we know to belong to a recent period4 ,i infer from ,mr4 ,hopkins' researches1#dj that for the formation of a long chain of mountains1 with few lateral spurs1 an area elongated in the same direction with the chain1 must have been subjected to an elevatory movement4 ,mountain-chains1 however1 when already formed1 although running in very different directions1 it seems1#da may be raised together by a widely-acting force3 so1 perhaps1 mountain-chains may subside together4 ,hence1 we cannot tell1 whether the ,caroline and ,marshall ,archipelagoes1 two groups of atolls running in different directions and meeting each other1 have been formed by the subsidence of two areas1 or of one large area1 including two distinct lines of mountains4 ,we have1 however1 in the southern prolongation of the ,mariana ,islands1 probable evidence of a line of recent elevation having intersected one of recent subsidence4 ,a view of the map will show that1 generally1 there is a tendency to alternation in the parallel areas undergoing opposite kinds of movement2 as if the sinking of one area balanced the rising of another4 #dj 8,researches in ,physical ,geology10 ,transact4 ,cambridge ,phil4 ,soc41 volume vi1 part i4 #da ,for instance in ,s4 ,america from latitude #cd1 for very many degrees southward there are upraised beds containing recent species of shells1 on both the ,atlantic and ,pacific side of the continent1 and from the gradual ascent of the land1 although with very unequal slopes1 on both sides towards the ,cordillera1 ,i think it can hardly be doubted that the entire width has been upraised in mass within the recent period4 ,in this case the two ,w4,n4,w4 and ,e4,s4,e4 mountain-lines1 namely the ,sierra ,ventana and the ,s4 ,tapalguen1 and the great north and south line of the ,cordillera have been together raised4 ,in the ,west ,indies the ,n4 and ,s4 line of the ,eastern ,antilles1 and the ,e4 and ,w4 line of ,jamaica1 appear both to have been upraised within the latest geological period4 ,the existence in many parts of the world of high table-land1 proves that large surfaces have been upraised in mass to considerable heights above the level of the ocean2 although the highest points in almost every country consist of upturned strata1 or erupted matter3 and from the immense spaces scattered with atolls1 which indicate that land originally existed there1 although not one pinnacle now remains above the level of the sea1 we may conclude that wide areas have subsided to an amount1 sufficient to bury not only any formerly existing table-land1 but even the heights formed by fractured strata1 and erupted matter4 ,the effects produced on the land by the later elevatory movements1 namely1 successively rising cliffs1 lines of erosion1 and beds of literal shells and pebbles1 all requiring time for their production1 prove that these movements have been very slow2 we can1 however1 infer this with safety1 only with respect to the few last hundred feet of rise4 ,but with reference to the whole vast amount of subsidence1 necessary to have produced the many atolls widely scattered over immense spaces1 it has already been shown 7and it is1 perhaps1 the most interesting conclusion in this volume71 that the movements must either have been uniform and exceedingly slow1 or have been effected by small steps1 separated from each other by long intervals of time1 during which the reef-constructing polypifers were able to bring up their solid frameworks to the surface4 ,we have little means of judging whether many considerable oscillations of level have generally occurred during the elevation of large tracts2 but we know1 from clear geological evidence1 that this has frequently taken place2 and we have seen on our map1 that some of the same islands have both subsided and been upraised4 ,i conclude1 however1 that most of the large blue spaces1 have subsided without many and great elevatory oscillations1 because only a few upraised atolls have been observed3 the supposition that such elevations have taken place1 but that the upraised parts have been worn down by the surf1 and thus have escaped observation1 is overruled by the very considerable depth of the lagoons of all the larger atolls2 for this could not have been the case1 if they had suffered repeated elevations and abrasion4 ,from the comparative observations made in these latter pages1 we may finally conclude1 that the subterranean changes which have caused some large areas to rise1 and others to subside1 have acted in a very similar manner4 ,recapitulation4--,in the three first chapters1 the principal kinds of coral-reefs were described in detail1 and they were found to differ little1 as far as relates to the actual surface of the reef4 ,an atoll differs from an encircling barrier-reef only in the absence of land within its central expanse2 and a barrier-reef differs from a fringing-reef1 in being placed at a much greater distance from the land with reference to the probable inclination of its submarine foundation1 and in the presence of a deep-water lagoon-like space or moat within the reef4 ,in the fourth chapter the growing powers of the reef-constructing polypifers were discussed2 and it was shown1 that they cannot flourish beneath a very limited depth4 ,in accordance with this limit1 there is no difficulty respecting the foundations on which fringing-reefs are based2 whereas1 with barrier-reefs and atolls1 there is a great apparent difficulty on this head2 in barrier-reefs from the improbability of the rock of the coast or of banks of sediment extending1 in every instance1 so far seaward within the required depth2--and in atolls1 from the immensity of the spaces over which they are interspersed1 and the apparent necessity for believing that they are all supported on mountain-summits1 which although rising very near to the surface-level of the sea1 in no one instance emerge above it4 ,to escape this latter most improbable admission1 which implies the existence of submarine chains of mountains of almost the same height1 extending over areas of many thousand square miles1 there is but one alternative2 namely1 the prolonged subsidence of the foundations1 on which the atolls were primarily based1 together with the upward growth of the reef-constructing corals4 ,on this view every difficulty vanishes2 fringing reefs are thus converted into barrier-reefs2 and barrier-reefs1 when encircling islands1 are thus converted into atolls1 the instant the last pinnacle of land sinks beneath the surface of the ocean4 ,thus the ordinary forms and certain peculiarities in the structure of atolls and barrier-reefs can be explained2--namely1 the wall-like structure on their inner sides1 the basin or ring-like shape both of the marginal and central reefs in the ,maldiva atolls--the union of some atolls as if by a ribbon--the apparent disseverment of others--and the occurrence1 in atolls as well as in barrier-reefs1 of portions of reef1 and of the whole of some reefs1 in a dead and submerged state1 but retaining the outline of living reefs4 ,thus can be explained the existence of breaches through barrier-reefs in front of valleys1 though separated from them by a wide space of deep water2 thus1 also1 the ordinary outline of groups of atolls and the relative forms of the separate atolls one to another2 thus can be explained the proximity of the two kinds of reefs formed during subsidence1 and their separation from the spaces where fringing-reefs abound4 ,on searching for other evidence of the movements supposed by our theory1 we find marks of change in atolls and in barrier-reefs1 and of subterranean disturbances under them2 but from the nature of things1 it is scarcely possible to detect any direct proofs of subsidence1 although some appearances are strongly in favour of it4 ,on the fringed coasts1 however1 the presence of upraised marine bodies of a recent epoch1 plainly show1 that these coasts1 instead of having remained stationary1 which is all that can be directly inferred from our theory1 have generally been elevated4 ,finally1 when the two great types of structure1 namely barrier-reefs and atolls on the one hand1 and fringing-reefs on the other1 were laid down in colours on our map1 a magnificent and harmonious picture of the movements1 which the crust of the earth has within a late period undergone1 is presented to us4 ,we there see vast areas rising1 with volcanic matter every now and then bursting forth through the vents or fissures with which they are traversed4 ,we see other wide spaces slowly sinking without any volcanic outburst1 and we may feel sure1 that this sinking must have been immense in amount as well as in area1 thus to have buried over the broad face of the ocean every one of those mountains1 above which atolls now stand like monuments1 marking the place of their former existence4 ,reflecting how powerful an agent with respect to denudation1 and consequently to the nature and thickness of the deposits in accumulation1 the sea must ever be1 when acting for prolonged periods on the land1 during either its slow emergence or subsidence2 reflecting1 also1 on the final effects of these movements in the interchange of land and ocean-water on the climate of the earth1 and on the distribution of organic beings1 ,i may be permitted to hope1 that the conclusions derived from the study of coral-formations1 originally attempted merely to explain their peculiar forms1 may be thought worthy of the attention of geologists4 ,,appendix4 ,,containing ,a ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,the ,,reefs ,,and ,,islands ,,in ,,plate ,,iii4 ,in the beginning of the last chapter ,i stated the principles on which the map is coloured4 ,there only remains to be said1 that it is an exact copy of one by ,m4 ,c4 ,gressier1 published by the ,dpt gnral de la ,marine1 in #ahce4 ,the names have been altered into ,english1 and the longitude has been reduced to that of ,greenwich4 ,the colours were first laid down on accurate charts1 on a large scale4 ,the data1 on which the volcanoes historically known to have been in action1 have been marked with vermillion1 were given in a note to the last chapter4 ,i will commence my description on the eastern side of the map1 and will describe each group of islands consecutively1 proceeding westward across the ,pacific and ,indian ,oceans1 but ending with the ,west ,indies4 ,the ,,western ,,shores ,,of ,,america appear to be entirely without coral-reefs2 south of the equator the survey of the 8,beagle01 and north of it1 the published charts show that this is the case4 ,even in the ,bay of ,panama1 where corals flourish1 there are no true coral-reefs1 as ,i have been informed by ,mr4 ,lloyd4 ,there are no coral-reefs in the ,galapagos ,archipelago1 as ,i know from personal inspection2 and ,i believe there are none on the ,cocos1 ,revilla-gigedo1 and other neighbouring islands4 ,clipperton rock1 #aj ,n41 #aji ,w41 has lately been surveyed by ,captain ,belcher2 in form it is like the crater of a volcano4 ,from a drawing appended to the ,,ms4 plan in the ,admiralty1 it evidently is not an atoll4 ,the eastern parts of the ,pacific present an enormous area1 without any islands1 except ,easter1 and ,sala1 and ,gomez ,islands1 which do not appear to be surrounded by reefs4 ,the ,,low ,,archipelago4--,this group consists of about eighty atolls3 it will be quite superfluous to refer to descriptions of each4 ,in ,d',urville and ,lottin's chart1 one island 7,wolchonsky7 is written with a capital letter1 signifying1 as explained in a former chapter1 that it is a high island2 but this must be a mistake1 as the original chart by ,bellinghausen shows that it is a true atoll4 ,captain ,beechey says of the thirty-two groups which he examined 7of the greater number of which ,i have seen beautiful ,,ms4 charts in the ,admiralty71 that twenty-nine now contain lagoons1 and he believes the other three originally did4 ,bellinghausen 7see an account of his ,russian voyage1 in the 8,biblioth4 des ,voyages10 #ahcd1 page #ddc7 says1 that the seventeen islands which he discovered resembled each other in structure1 and he has given charts on a large scale of all of them4 ,kotzebue has given plans of several2 ,cook and ,bligh mention others2 a few were seen during the voyage of the 8,beagle02 and notices of other atolls are scattered through several publications4 ,the ,acton group in this archipelago has lately been discovered 78,geographical ,journal01 volume vii41 page #ded72 it consists of three small and low islets1 one of which has a lagoon4 ,another lagoon-island has been discovered 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahci1 page #ggj71 in #bb #d ,s41 and #acf #bj ,w4 ,towards the ,s4,e4 part of the group1 there are some islands of different formation3 ,elizabeth ,island is described by ,beechey 7page #df1 #dto edition7 as fringed by reefs1 at the distance of between two and three hundred yards2 coloured red4 ,pitcairn ,island1 in the immediate neighbourhood1 according to the same authority1 has no reefs of any kind1 although numerous pieces of coral are thrown up on the beach2 the sea close to its shore is very deep 7see 8,zool4 of ,beechey's ,voyage10 page #afd72 it is left uncoloured4 ,gambier ,islands 7see ,plate ,i41 ,figure #h71 are encircled by a barrier-reef2 the greatest depth within is thirty-eight fathoms2 coloured pale blue4 ,aurora ,island1 which lies ,n4,e4 of ,tahiti close to the large space coloured dark blue in the map1 has been already described in a note 7page #ga71 on the authority of ,mr4 ,couthouy2 it is an upraised atoll1 but as it does not appear to be fringed by living reefs1 it is left uncoloured4 ,the ,,society ,archipelago is separated by a narrow space from the ,low ,archipelago2 and in their parallel direction they manifest some relation to each other4 ,i have already described the general character of the reefs of these fine encircled islands4 ,in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage0 there is a good general chart of the group1 and separate plans of some of the islands4 ,tahiti1 the largest island in the group1 is almost surrounded1 as seen in ,cook's chart1 by a reef from half a mile to a mile and a half from the shore1 with from ten to thirty fathoms within it4 ,some considerable submerged reefs lying parallel to the shore1 with a broad and deep space within1 have lately been discovered 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahcf1 page #bfd7 on the ,n4,e4 coast of the island1 where none are laid down by ,cook4 ,at ,eimeo the reef 8which like a ring surrounds it1 is in some places one or two miles distant from the shore1 in others united to the beach0 7,ellis1 8,polynesian ,researches10 volume i41 page #ah1 #abmo edition74 ,cook found deep water 7twenty fathoms7 in some of the harbours within the reef4 ,mr4 ,couthouy1 however1 states 78,remarks10 page #de7 that both at ,tahiti and ,eimeo1 the space between the barrier-reef and the shore1 has been almost filled up1--8a nearly continuous fringing-reef surrounding the island1 and varying from a few yards to rather more than a mile in width1 the lagoons merely forming canals between this and the sea-reef10 that is the barrier-reef4 ,tapamanoa is surrounded by a reef at a considerable distance from the shore2 from the island being small it is breached1 as ,i am informed by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis1 only by a narrow and crooked boat channel4 ,this is the lowest island in the group1 its height probably not exceeding #ejj feet4 ,a little way north of ,tahiti1 the low coral-islets of ,teturoa are situated2 from the description of them given me by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams 7the author of the 8,narrative of ,missionary ,enterprise071 ,i should have thought they had formed a small atoll1 and likewise from the description given by the ,rev4 ,d4 ,tyerman and ,g4 ,bennett 78,journal of ,voyage and ,travels10 volume i41 page #ahc71 who say that ten low coral-islets 8are comprehended within one general reef1 and separated from each other by interjacent lagoons20 but as ,mr4 ,stutchbury 78,west of ,england ,journal10 volume i41 page #ed7 describes it as consisting of a mere narrow ridge1 ,i have left it uncoloured4 ,maitea1 eastward of the group1 is classed by ,forster as a high encircled island2 but from the account given by the ,rev4 ,d4 ,tyerman and ,g4 ,bennett 7volume i41 page #eg7 it appears to be an exceedingly abrupt cone1 rising from the sea without any reef2 ,i have left it uncoloured4 ,it would be superfluous to describe the northern islands in this group1 as they may be well seen in the chart accompanying the #dto edition of ,cook's 8,voyages10 and in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage40 ,maurua is the only one of the northern islands1 in which the water within the reef is not deep1 being only four and a half fathoms2 but the great width of the reef1 stretching three miles and a half southward of the land 7which is represented in the drawing in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage0 as descending abruptly to the water7 shows1 on the principle explained in the beginning of the last chapter1 that it belongs to the barrier class4 ,i may here mention1 from information communicated to me by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis1 that on the ,n4,e4 side of ,huaheine there is a bank of sand1 about a quarter of a mile wide1 extending parallel to the shore1 and separated from it by an extensive and deep lagoon2 this bank of sand rests on coral-rock1 and undoubtedly was originally a living reef4 ,north of ,bolabola lies the atoll of ,toubai 7,motou-iti of the 8#8,coquille's' ,atlas07 which is coloured dark blue2 the other islands1 surrounded by barrier-reefs1 are pale blue2 three of them are represented in ,figures #c1 #d1 and #e1 in ,plate ,i4 ,there are three low coral-groups lying a little ,e4 of the ,society ,archipelago1 and almost forming part of it1 namely ,bellinghausen1 which is said by ,kotzebue 78,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #bee71 to be a lagoon-island2 ,mopeha1 which1 from ,cook's description 78,second ,voyage10 book iii41 chapter i471 no doubt is an atoll2 and the ,scilly ,islands1 which are said by ,wallis 78,voyage10 chapter ix47 to form a group of low islets and shoals1 and1 therefore1 probably1 they compose an atoll3 the two former have been coloured blue1 but not the latter4 ,,mendana or ,,marquesas ,group4--,these islands are entirely without reefs1 as may be seen in ,krusenstern's ,atlas1 making a remarkable contrast with the adjacent group of the ,society ,islands4 ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett has given some account of this group1 in the seventh volume of the 8,geographical ,journal04 ,he informs me that all the islands have the same general character1 and that the water is very deep close to their shores4 ,he visited three of them1 namely1 ,dominicana1 ,christiana1 and ,roapoa2 their beaches are strewed with rounded masses of coral1 and although no regular reefs exist1 yet the shore is in many places lined by coral-rock1 so that a boat grounds on this formation4 ,hence these islands ought probably to come within the class of fringed islands and be coloured red2 but as ,i am determined to err on the cautious side1 ,i have left them uncoloured4 ,,cook or ,,harvey and ,,austral ,,island4--,palmerston ,island is minutely described as an atoll by ,captain ,cook during his voyage in #aggd2 coloured blue4 ,aitutaki was partially surveyed by the 8,beagle0 7see map accompanying 8,voyages of #8,adventure' and #8,beagle'072 the land is hilly1 sloping gently to the beach2 the highest point is #cfj feet2 on the southern side the reef projects five miles from the land3 off this point the 8,beagle0 found no bottom with #bgj fathoms3 the reef is surmounted by many low coral-islets4 ,although within the reef the water is exceedingly shallow1 not being more than a few feet deep1 as ,i am informed by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams1 nevertheless1 from the great extension of this reef into a profoundly deep ocean1 this island probably belongs1 on the principle lately adverted to1 to the barrier class1 and ,i have coloured it pale blue2 although with much hesitation4--,manouai or ,harvey ,island4 ,the highest point is about fifty feet3 the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams informs me that the reef here1 although it lies far from the shore1 is less distant than at ,aitutaki1 but the water within the reef is rather deeper3 ,i have also coloured this pale blue with many doubts4--,round ,mitiaro ,island1 as ,i am informed by ,mr4 ,williams1 the reef is attached to the shore2 coloured red4 --,mauki or ,maouti2 the reef round this island 7under the name of ,parry ,island1 in the 8,voyage of ,h4,m4,s4 #8,blonde'10 page #bji7 is described as a coral-flat1 only fifty yards wide1 and two feet under water4 ,this statement has been corroborated by ,mr4 ,williams1 who calls the reef attached2 coloured red4--,aitu1 or ,wateeo2 a moderately elevated hilly island1 like the others of this group4 ,the reef is described in ,cook's 8,voyage10 as attached to the shore1 and about one hundred yards wide2 coloured red4--,fenoua-iti2 ,cook describes this island as very low1 not more than six or seven feet high 7volume i41 book ii41 chapter iii1 #aggg72 in the chart published in the 8#8,coquille's' ,atlas10 a reef is engraved close to the shore3 this island is not mentioned in the list given by ,mr4 ,williams 7page #af7 in the 8,narrative of ,missionary ,enterprise20 nature doubtful4 ,as it is so near ,atiu1 it has been unavoidably coloured red4-- ,rarotonga2 ,mr4 ,williams informs me that it is a lofty basaltic island with an attached reef2 coloured red4--,there are three islands1 ,rourouti1 ,roxburgh1 and ,hull1 of which ,i have not been able to obtain any account1 and have left them uncoloured4 ,hull ,island1 in the ,french chart1 is written with small letters as being low4--,mangaia2 height about three hundred feet2 8the surrounding reef joins the shore0 7,williams1 8,narrative10 page #ah72 coloured red4--,rimetara2 ,mr4 ,williams informs me that the reef is rather close to the shore2 but1 from information given me by ,mr4 ,ellis1 the reef does not appear to be quite so closely attached to it as in the foregoing cases3 the island is about three hundred feet high 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahci1 page #gch72 coloured red4--,rurutu2 ,mr4 ,williams and ,mr4 ,ellis inform me that this island has an attached reef2 coloured red4 ,it is described by ,cook under the name of ,oheteroa3 he says it is not surrounded1 like the neighbouring islands by a reef2 he must have meant a distant reef4--,toubouai2 in ,cook's chart 78,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #b7 the reef is laid down in part one mile1 and in part two miles from the shore4 ,mr4 ,ellis 78,polynes4 ,res40 volume iii41 page #cha7 says the low land round the base of the island is very extensive2 and this gentleman informs me that the water within the reef appears deep2 coloured blue4--,raivaivai1 or ,vivitao2 ,mr4 ,williams informs me that the reef is here distant3 ,mr4 ,ellis1 however1 says that this is certainly not the case on one side of the island2 and he believes that the water within the reef is not deep2 hence ,i have left it uncoloured4--,lancaster ,reef1 described in 8,naut4 ,mag40 #ahcc 7page #fic71 as an extensive crescent-formed coral-reef4 ,i have not coloured it4--,rapa1 or ,oparree2 from the accounts given of it by ,ellis and ,vancouver1 there does not appear to be any reef4--,i4 de ,bass is an adjoining island1 of which ,i cannot find any account4--,kemin ,island2 ,krusenstern seems hardly to know its position1 and gives no further particulars4 ,,islands ,,between the ,low and ,gilbert ,archipelagoes4 ,caroline ,island 7#aj ,s41 #aej ,w47 is described by ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett 78,geographical ,journal01 volume vii41 page #bbe7 as containing a fine lagoon2 coloured blue4--,flint ,island 7#aa ,s41 #aea ,w472 ,krusenstern believes that it is the same with ,peregrino1 which is described by ,quiros 7,burney's 8,chron4 ,hist40 volume ii41 page #bhc7 as 8a cluster of small islands connected by a reef1 and forming a lagoon in the middle20 coloured blue4--,wostock is an island a little more than half a mile in diameter1 and apparently quite flat and low1 and was discovered by ,bellinghausen2 it is situated a little west of ,caroline ,island1 but it is not placed on the ,french charts2 ,i have not coloured it1 although ,i entertain little doubt from the chart of ,bellinghausen1 that it originally contained a small lagoon4--,penrhyn ,island 7#i ,s41 #aeh ,w472 a plan of it in the 8,atlas of the ,first ,voyage0 of ,kotzebue1 shows that it is an atoll2 blue4-- ,starbuck ,island 7#e ,s41 #aef ,w47 is described in ,byron's 8,voyage in the #8,blonde'0 7page #bjf7 as formed of a flat coral-rock1 with no trees2 the height not given2 not coloured4--,malden ,island 7#d ,s41 #aed ,w472 in the same voyage 7page #bje7 this island is said to be of coral formation1 and no part above forty feet high2 ,i have not ventured to colour it1 although1 from being of coral-formation1 it is probably fringed2 in which case it should be red4--,jarvis1 or ,bunker ,island 7#j #bj ,s41 #afj ,w47 is described by ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett 78,geographical ,journal01 volume vii41 page #bbg7 as a narrow1 low strip of coral-formation2 not coloured4--,brook1 is a small low island between the two latter2 the position1 and perhaps even the existence of it is doubtful2 not coloured4--,pescado and ,humphrey ,islands2 ,i can find out nothing about these islands1 except that the latter appears to be small and low2 not coloured4--,rearson1 or ,grand ,duke ,alexander's 7#aj ,s41 #afa ,w472 an atoll1 of which a plan is given by ,bellinghausen2 blue4-- ,souvoroff ,islands 7#ac ,s41 #afc ,w472 ,admiral ,krusenstern1 in the most obliging manner1 obtained for me an account of these islands from ,admiral ,lazareff1 who discovered them4 ,they consist of five very low islands of coral-formation1 two of which are connected by a reef1 with deep water close to it4 ,they do not surround a lagoon1 but are so placed that a line drawn through them includes an oval space1 part of which is shallow2 these islets1 therefore1 probably once 7as is the case with some of the islands in the ,caroline ,archipelago7 formed a single atoll2 but ,i have not coloured them4--,danger ,island 7#aj ,s41 #aff ,w472 described as low by ,commodore ,byron1 and more lately surveyed by ,bellinghausen2 it is a small atoll with three islets on it2 blue4--,clarence ,island 7#i ,s41 #agb ,w472 discovered in the 8,pandora0 7,g4 ,hamilton's 8,voyage10 page #ge73 it is said1 8in running along the land1 we saw several canoes crossing the lagoons20 as this island is in the close vicinity of other low islands1 and as it is said1 that the natives make reservoirs of water in old cocoa-nut trees 7which shows the nature of the land71 ,i have no doubt it is an atoll1 and have coloured it blue4 ,york ,island 7#h ,s41 #agb ,w47 is described by ,commodore ,byron 7chapter x4 of his 8,voyage07 as an atoll2 blue4--,sydney ,island 7#d ,s41 #agb ,w47 is about three miles in diameter1 with its interior occupied by a lagoon 7,captain ,tromelin1 8,annal4 ,marit40 #ahbi1 page #big72 blue4--,phnix ,island 7#d ,s41 #aga ,w47 is nearly circular1 low1 sandy1 not more than two miles in diameter1 and very steep outside 7,tromelin1 8,annal4 ,marit40 #ahbi1 page #big72 it may be inferred that this island originally contained a lagoon1 but ,i have not coloured it4--,new ,nantucket 7#j #ae ,n41 #agd ,w474 ,from the ,french chart it must be a low island2 ,i can find nothing more about it or about ,mary ,island2 both uncoloured4--,gardner ,island 7#e ,s41 #agd ,w47 from its position is certainly the same as ,kemin ,island described 7,krusenstern1 page #dce1 ,appen4 to ,mem41 published #ahbg7 as having a lagoon in its centre2 blue4 ,,islands ,,south of the ,sandwich ,archipelago4 ,christmas ,island 7#b ,n41 #aeg ,w474 ,captain ,cook1 in his 8,third ,voyage0 7,volume ii41 chapter x471 has given a detailed account of this atoll4 ,the breadth of the islets on the reef is unusually great1 and the sea near it does not deepen so suddenly as is generally the case4 ,it has more lately been visited by ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett 78,geographical ,journal10 volume vii41 page #bbf72 and he assures me that it is low and of coral-formation3 ,i particularly mention this1 because it is engraved with a capital letter1 signifying a high island1 in ,d',urville and ,lottin's chart4 ,mr4 ,couthouy1 also1 has given some account of it 78,remarks10 page #df7 from the ,hawaiian 8,spectator02 he believes it has lately undergone a small elevation1 but his evidence does not appear to me satisfactory2 the deepest part of the lagoon is said to be only ten feet2 nevertheless1 ,i have coloured it blue4--,fanning ,island 7#d ,n41 #aeh ,w47 according to ,captain ,tromelin 78,ann4 ,maritim40 #ahbi1 page #bhc71 is an atoll3 his account as observed by ,krusenstern1 differs from that given in ,fanning's 8,voyage0 7page #bbd71 which1 however1 is far from clear2 coloured blue4-- ,washington ,island 7#d ,n41 #aei ,w47 is engraved as a low island in ,d',urville's chart1 but is described by ,fanning 7page #bbf7 as having a much greater elevation than ,fanning ,island1 and hence ,i presume it is not an atoll2 not coloured4--,palmyra ,island 7#f ,n41 #afb ,w47 is an atoll divided into two parts 7,krusenstern's 8,mem4 ,suppl40 page #ej1 also ,fanning's 8,voyage10 page #bcc72 blue4--,smyth's or ,johnston's ,islands 7#ag ,n41 #agj ,w474 ,captain ,smyth1 ,r4,n41 has had the kindness to inform me that they consist of two very low1 small islands1 with a dangerous reef off the east end of them4 ,captain ,smyth does not recollect whether these islets1 together with the reef1 surrounded a lagoon2 uncoloured4 ,,sandwich ,,archipelago4--,hawaii2 in the chart in ,freycinet's 8,atlas10 small portions of the coast are fringed by reefs2 and in the accompanying 8,hydrog4 ,memoir10 reefs are mentioned in several places1 and the coral is said to injure the cables4 ,on one side of the islet of ,kohaihai there is a bank of sand and coral with five feet water on it1 running parallel to the shore1 and leaving a channel of about fifteen feet deep within4 ,i have coloured this island red1 but it is very much less perfectly fringed than others of the group4--,maui2 in ,freycinet's chart of the anchorage of ,raheina1 two or three miles of coast are seen to be fringed2 and in the 8,hydrog4 ,memoir10 8banks of coral along shore0 are spoken of4 ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett informs me that the reefs1 on an average1 extend about a quarter of a mile from the beach2 the land is not very steep1 and outside the reefs the sea does not become deep very suddenly2 coloured red4--,morotoi1 ,i presume1 is fringed3 ,freycinet speaks of the breakers extending along the shore at a little distance from it4 ,from the chart1 ,i believe it is fringed2 coloured red4--,oahu2 ,freycinet1 in his 8,hydrog4 ,memoir10 mentions some of the reefs4 ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett informs me that the shore is skirted for forty or fifty miles in length4 ,there is even a harbour for ships formed by the reefs1 but it is at the mouth of a valley2 red4--,atooi1 in ,la ,peyrouse's charts1 is represented as fringed by a reef1 in the same manner as ,oahu and ,morotoi2 and this1 as ,i have been informed by ,mr4 ,ellis1 on part at least of the shore1 is of coral-formation3 the reef does not leave a deep channel within2 red4--,oneehow2 ,mr4 ,ellis believes that this island is also fringed by a coral-reef3 considering its close proximity to the other islands1 ,i have ventured to colour it red4 ,i have in vain consulted the works of ,cook1 ,vancouver1 ,la ,peyrouse1 and ,lisiansky1 for any satisfactory account of the small islands and reefs1 which lie scattered in a ,n4,w4 line prolonged from the ,sandwich group1 and hence have left them uncoloured1 with one exception2 for ,i am indebted to ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett for informing me of an atoll-formed reef1 in latitude #bh #bb1 longitude #agh #cj ,w41 on which the 8,gledstanes0 was wrecked in #ahcg4 ,it is apparently of large size1 and extends in a ,n4,w4 and ,s4,e4 line3 very few islets have been formed on it4 ,the lagoon seems to be shallow2 at least1 the deepest part which was surveyed was only three fathoms4 ,mr4 ,couthouy 78,remarks10 page #ch7 describes this island under the name of ,ocean island4 ,considerable doubts should be entertained regarding the nature of a reef of this kind1 with a very shallow lagoon1 and standing far from any other atoll1 on account of the possibility of a crater or flat bank of rock lying at the proper depth beneath the surface of the water1 thus affording a foundation for a ring-formed coral-reef4 ,i have1 however1 thought myself compelled1 from its large size and symmetrical outline1 to colour it blue4 ,,samoa or ,,navigator ,,group4--,kotzebue1 in his 8,second ,voyage10 contrasts the structure of these islands with many others in the ,pacific1 in not being furnished with harbours for ships1 formed by distant coral-reefs4 ,the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams1 however1 informs me1 that coral-reefs do occur in irregular patches on the shores of these islands2 but that they do not form a continuous band1 as round ,mangaia1 and other such perfect cases of fringed islands4 ,from the charts accompanying ,la ,peyrouse's 8,voyage10 it appears that the north shore of ,savaii1 ,maouna1 ,orosenga1 and ,mannua1 are fringed by reefs4 ,la ,peyrouse1 speaking of ,maouna 7page #abf71 says that the coral-reef surrounding its shores1 almost touches the beach2 and is breached in front of the little coves and streams1 forming passages for canoes1 and probably even for boats4 ,further on 7page #aei71 he extends the same observation to all the islands which he visited4 ,mr4 ,williams in his 8,narrative10 speaks of a reef going round a small island attached to ,oyolava1 and returning again to it3 all these islands have been coloured red4--,a chart of ,rose ,island1 at the extreme west end of the group1 is given by ,freycinet1 from which ,i should have thought that it had been an atoll2 but according to ,mr4 ,couthouy 78,remarks10 page #dc71 it consists of a reef1 only a league in circuit1 surmounted by a very few low islets2 the lagoon is very shallow1 and is strewed with numerous large boulders of volcanic rock4 ,this island1 therefore1 probably consists of a bank of rock1 a few feet submerged1 with the outer margin of its upper surface fringed with reefs2 hence it cannot be properly classed with atolls1 in which the foundations are always supposed to lie at a depth1 greater than that at which the reef-constructing polypifers can live2 not coloured4 ,beveridge ,reef1 #bj ,s41 #afg ,w41 is described in the 8,naut4 ,mag40 7,may #ahcc1 page #ddb7 as ten miles long in a ,n4 and ,s4 line1 and eight wide2 8in the inside of the reef there appears deep water20 there is a passage near the ,s4,w4 corner3 this therefore seems to be a submerged atoll1 and is coloured blue4 ,savage ,island1 #ai ,s41 #agj ,w41 has been described by ,cook and ,forster4 ,the younger ,forster 7volume ii41 page #afc7 says it is about forty feet high3 he suspects that it contains a low plain1 which formerly was the lagoon4 ,the ,rev4 ,j4 ,williams informs me that the reef fringing its shores1 resembles that round ,mangaia2 coloured red4 ,,friendly ,,archipelago4 ,pylstaart ,island4 ,judging from the chart in ,freycinet's 8,atlas10 ,i should have supposed that it had been regularly fringed2 but as nothing is said in the 8,hydrog4 ,memoir0 7or in the 8,voyage0 of ,tasman1 the discoverer7 about coral-reefs1 ,i have left it uncoloured4--,tongatabou3 ,in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 the whole south side of the island is represented as narrowly fringed by the same reef which forms an extensive platform on the northern side4 ,the origin of this latter reef1 which might have been mistaken for a barrier-reef1 has already been attempted to be explained1 when giving the proofs of the recent elevation of this island4-- ,in ,cook's charts the little outlying island also of ,eoaigee1 is represented as fringed2 coloured red4--,eoua4 ,i cannot make out from ,captain ,cook's charts and descriptions1 that this island has any reef1 although the bottom of the neighbouring sea seems to be corally1 and the island itself is formed of coral-rock4 ,forster1 however1 distinctly 78,observations10 page #ad7 classes it with high islands having reefs1 but it certainly is not encircled by a barrier-reef and the younger ,forster 78,voyage10 volume i41 page #dbf7 says1 that 8a bed of coral-rocks surrounded the coast towards the landing-place40 ,i have therefore classed it with the fringed islands and coloured it red4 ,the several islands lying ,n4,w4 of ,tongatabou1 namely ,anamouka1 ,komango1 ,kotou1 ,lefouga1 ,foa1 c41 are seen in ,captain ,cook's chart to be fringed by reefs1 in several of them are connected together4 ,from the various statements in the first volume of ,cook's 8,third ,voyage10 and especially in the fourth and sixth chapters1 it appears that these reefs are of coral-formation1 and certainly do not belong to the barrier class2 coloured red4--,toufoua ,kao1 forming the western part of the group1 according to ,forster have no reefs2 the former is an active volcano4--,vavao4 ,there is a chart of this singularly formed island1 by ,espinoza3 according to ,mr4 ,williams it consists of coral-rock3 the ,chevalier ,dillon informs me that it is not fringed2 not coloured4 ,nor are the islands of ,latte and ,amargura1 for ,i have not seen plans on a large scale of them1 and do not know whether they are fringed4 ,niouha1 #af ,s41 #agd ,w41 or ,keppel ,island of ,wallis1 or ,cocos ,island4 ,from a view and chart of this island given in ,wallis's 8,voyage0 7#dto edition7 it is evidently encircled by a reef2 coloured blue3 it is however remarkable that ,boscawen ,island1 immediately adjoining1 has no reef of any kind2 uncoloured4 ,wallis ,island1 #ac ,s41 #agf ,w41 a chart and view of this island in ,wallis's 8,voyage0 7#dto edition7 shows that it is encircled4 ,a view of it in the 8,naut4 ,mag40 ,july #ahcc1 page #cgf1 shows the same fact2 blue4 ,alloufatou1 or ,horn ,island1 ,onouafu1 or ,proby ,island1 and ,hunter ,islands1 lie between the ,navigator and ,fidji groups4 ,i can find no distinct accounts of them4 ,,fidji or ,,viti ,,group4--,the best chart of the numerous islands of this group1 will be found in the 8,atlas of the #8,astrolabe's' ,voyage40 ,from this1 and from the description given in the 8,hydrog4 ,memoir10 accompanying it1 it appears that many of these islands are bold and mountainous1 rising to the height of between #c1jjj and #d1jjj feet4 ,most of the islands are surrounded by reefs1 lying far from the land1 and outside of which the ocean appears very deep4 ,the 8,astrolabe0 sounded with ninety fathoms in several places about a mile from the reefs1 and found no bottom4 ,although the depth within the reef is not laid down1 it is evident from several expressions1 that ,captain ,d',urville believes that ships could anchor within1 if passages existed through the outer barriers4 ,the ,chevallier ,dillon informs me that this is the case3 hence ,i have coloured this group blue4 ,in the ,s4,e4 part lies ,batoa1 or ,turtle ,island of ,cook 78,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #bc1 and chart1 #dto edition7 surrounded by a coral-reef1 8which in some places extends two miles from the shore20 within the reef the water appears to be deep1 and outside it is unfathomable2 coloured pale blue4 ,at the distance of a few miles1 ,captain ,cook 7,ibid41 page #bd7 found a circular coral-reef1 four or five leagues in circuit1 with deep water within2 8in short1 the bank wants only a few little islets to make it exactly like one of the half-drowned isles so often mentioned10--namely1 atolls4 ,south of ,batoa1 lies the high island of ,ono1 which appears in ,bellinghausen's 8,atlas0 to be encircled2 as do some other small islands to the south2 coloured pale blue2 near ,ono1 there is an annular reef1 quite similar to the one just described in the words of ,captain ,cook2 coloured dark blue4 ,rotoumah1 #ac ,s41 #agi ,e4--,from the chart in ,duperrey's 8,atlas10 ,i thought this island was encircled1 and had coloured it blue1 but the ,chevallier ,dillon assures me that the reef is only a shore or fringing one2 red4 ,independence ,island1 #aj ,s41 #agi ,e41 is described by ,mr4 ,g4 ,bennett1 78,united ,service ,journal10 #ahca1 part ii41 page #aig7 as a low island of coral-formation1 it is small1 and does not appear to contain a lagoon1 although an opening through the reef is referred to4 ,a lagoon probably once existed1 and has since been filled up2 left uncoloured4 ,,ellice ,,group4--,oscar1 ,peyster1 and ,ellice ,islands are figured in ,arrowsmith's 8,chart of the ,pacific0 7corrected to #ahcb7 as atolls1 and are said to be very low2 blue4--,nederlandisch ,island4 ,i am greatly indebted to the kindness of ,admiral ,krusenstern1 for sending me the original documents concerning this island4 ,from the plans given by ,captains ,eeg and ,khremtshenko1 and from the detailed account given by the former1 it appears that it is a narrow coral-island1 about two miles long1 containing a small lagoon4 ,the sea is very deep close to the shore1 which is fronted by sharp coral-rocks4 ,captain ,eeg compares the lagoon with that of other coral-islands2 and he distinctly says1 the land is 8very low40 ,i have therefore coloured it blue4 ,admiral ,krusenstern 78,memoir on the ,pacific10 ,append41 #ahce7 states that its shores are eighty feet high2 this probably arose from the height of the cocoa-nut trees1 with which it is covered1 being mistaken for land4 --,gran ,cocal is said in ,krusenstern's 8,memoir10 to be low1 and to be surrounded by a reef2 it is small1 and therefore probably once contained a lagoon2 uncoloured4--,st4 ,augustin4 ,from a chart and view of it1 given in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage10 it appears to be a small atoll1 with its lagoon partly filled up2 coloured blue4 ,,gilbert ,,group4--,the chart of this group1 given in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage10 at once shows that it is composed of ten well characterised atolls4 ,in ,d',urville and ,lottin's chart1 ,sydenham is written with a capital letter1 signifying that it is high2 but this certainly is not the case1 for it is a perfectly characterised atoll1 and a sketch1 showing how low it is1 is given in the 8#8,coquille's' ,atlas40 ,some narrow strip-like reefs project from the southern side of ,drummond atoll1 and render it irregular4 ,the southern island of the group is called ,chase 7in some charts1 ,rotches72 of this ,i can find no account1 but ,mr4 ,f4,d4 ,bennett discovered 78,geographical ,journal01 volume vii41 page #bbi71 a low extensive island in nearly the same latitude1 about three degrees westward of the longitude assigned to ,rotches1 but very probably it is the same island4 ,mr4 ,bennett informs me that the man at the masthead reported an appearance of lagoon-water in the centre2 and1 therefore1 considering its position1 ,i have coloured it blue4 --,pitt ,island1 at the extreme northern point of the group1 is left uncoloured1 as its exact position and nature is not known4--,byron ,island1 which lies a little to the eastward1 does not appear to have been visited since ,commodore ,byron's voyage1 and it was then seen only from a distance of eighteen miles2 it is said to be low2 uncoloured4 ,ocean1 ,pleasant1 and ,atlantic ,islands all lie considerably to the west of the ,gilbert group3 ,i have been unable to find any distinct account of them4 ,ocean ,island is written with small letters in the ,french chart1 but in ,krusenstern's 8,memoir0 it is said to be high4 ,,marshall ,,group4--,we are well acquainted with this group from the excellent charts of the separate islands1 made during the two voyages of ,kotzebue3 a reduced one of the whole group may be easily seen in ,krusenstern's 8,atlas10 and in ,kotzebue's 8,second ,voyage40 ,the group consists 7with the exception of two little islands which probably have had their lagoon filled up7 of a double row of twenty-three large and well-characterised atolls1 from the examination of which ,chamisso has given us his well-known account of coral-formations4 ,i include ,gaspar-,rico1 or ,cornwallis ,island in this group1 which is described by ,chamisso 7,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 volume iii41 page #agi7 8as a low sickle-formed group1 with mould only on the windward side40 ,gaspard ,island is considered by some geographers as a distinct island lying ,n4,e4 of the group1 but it is not entered in the chart by ,krusenstern2 left uncoloured4 ,in the ,s4,w4 part of this group lies ,baring ,island1 of which little is known 7see ,krusenstern's 8,appendix10 #ahce1 page #adi74 ,i have left it uncoloured2 but ,boston ,island ,i have coloured blue1 as it is described 7,ibid47 as consisting of fourteen small islands1 which1 no doubt1 enclose a lagoon1 as represented in a chart in the 8#8,coquille's' ,atlas40--,two islands1 ,aur ,kawen and ,gaspar ,rico1 are written in the ,french chart with capital letters2 but this is an error1 for from the account given by ,chamisso in ,kotzebue's 8,first ,voyage10 they are certainly low4 ,the nature1 position1 and even existence1 of the shoals and small islands north of the ,marshall group1 are doubtful4 ,,new ,,hebrides4--,any chart1 on even a small scale1 of these islands1 will show that their shores are almost without reefs1 presenting a remarkable contrast with those of ,new ,caledonia on the one hand1 and the ,fidji group on the other4 ,nevertheless1 ,i have been assured by ,mr4 ,g4 ,bennett1 that coral grows vigorously on their shores2 as indeed1 will be further shown in some of the following notices4 ,as1 therefore1 these islands are not encircled1 and as coral grows vigorously on their shores1 we might almost conclude1 without further evidence1 that they were fringed1 and hence ,i have applied the red colour with rather greater freedom than in other instances4--,matthew's ,rock1 an active volcano1 some way south of the group 7of which a plan is given in the 8,atlas of the #8,astrolabe's' ,voyage07 does not appear to have reefs of any kind about it4--,annatom1 the southernmost of the ,hebrides2 from a rough woodcut given in the 8,united ,service ,journal0 7#ahca1 part iii41 page #aij71 accompanying a paper by ,mr4 ,bennett1 it appears that the shore is fringed2 coloured red4--,tanna4 ,forster1 in his 8,observations0 7page #bb71 says ,tanna has on its shores coral-rock and madrepores2 and the younger ,forster1 in his account 7volume ii41 page #bfi7 speaking of the harbour says1 the whole ,s4,e4 side consists of coral-reefs1 which are overflowed at high-water2 part of the southern shore in ,cook's chart is represented as fringed2 coloured red4--,immer is described 78,united ,service ,journal10 #ahca1 part iii41 page #aib7 by ,mr4 ,bennett as being of moderate elevation1 with cliffs appearing like sandstone3 coral grows in patches on its shore1 but ,i have not coloured it2 and ,i mention these facts1 because ,immer might have been thought from ,forster's classification 78,observations10 page #ad71 to have been a low island or even an atoll4-- ,erromango ,island2 ,cook 78,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #de1 #dto edition7 speaks of rocks everywhere lining the coast1 and the natives offered to haul his boat over the breakers to the sandy beach3 ,mr4 ,bennett1 in a letter to the ,editor of the 8,singapore ,chron410 alludes to the reefs on its shores4 ,it may1 ,i think1 be safely inferred from these passages that the shore is fringed in parts by coral-reefs2 coloured red4--,sandwich ,island4 ,the east coast is said 7,cook's 8,second ,voyage10 volume ii41 page #da7 to be low1 and to be guarded by a chain of breakers4 ,in the accompanying chart it is seen to be fringed by a reef2 coloured red4--,mallicollo2 ,forster speaks of the reef-bounded shore3 the reef is about thirty yards wide1 and so shallow that a boat cannot pass over it4 ,forster also 78,observations10 page #bc7 says1 that the rocks of the sea-shore consist of madrepore4 ,in the plan of ,sandwich harbour1 the headlands are represented as fringed2 coloured red4--,aurora and ,pentecost ,islands1 according to ,bougainville1 apparently have no reefs2 nor has the large island of ,s4 ,espiritu1 nor ,bligh ,island or ,banks' ,islands1 which latter lie to the ,n4,e4 of the ,hebrides4 ,but in none of these cases1 have ,i met with any detailed account of their shores1 or seen plans on a large scale2 and it will be evident1 that a fringing-reef of only thirty or even a few hundred yards in width1 is of so little importance to navigation1 that it will seldom be noticed1 excepting by chance2 and hence ,i do not doubt that several of these islands1 now left uncoloured1 ought to be red4 ,,santa-,,cruz ,,group4--,vanikoro 7,figure #a1 ,plate ,i47 offers a striking example of a barrier-reef3 it was first described by the ,chevalier ,dillon1 in his voyage1 and was surveyed in the 8,astrolabe02 coloured pale blue4--,tikopia and ,fataka ,islands appear1 from the descriptions of ,dillon and ,d',urville1 to have no reefs2 ,anouda is a low1 flat island1 surrounded by cliffs 78#8,astrolabe' ,hydrog40 and ,krusenstern1 8,mem40 volume ii41 page #dcb72 these are uncoloured4 ,toupoua 7,otooboa of ,dillon7 is stated by ,captain ,tromelin 78,annales ,marit40 #ahbi1 page #bhi7 to be almost entirely included in a reef1 lying at the distance of two miles from the shore4 ,there is a space of three miles without any reef1 which1 although indented with bays1 offers no anchorage from the extreme depth of the water close to the shore3 ,captain ,dillon also speaks of the reefs fronting this island2 coloured blue4-- ,santa-,cruz4 ,i have carefully examined the works of ,carteret1 ,d',entrecasteaux1 ,wilson1 and ,tromelin1 and ,i cannot discover any mention of reefs on its shores2 left uncoloured4--,tinakoro is a constantly active volcano without reefs4--,mendana ,isles 7mentioned by ,dillon under the name of ,mammee1 etc472 said by ,krusenstern to be low1 and intertwined with reefs4 ,i do not believe they include a lagoon2 ,i have left them uncoloured4--,duff's ,islands compose a small group directed in a ,n4,w4 and ,s4,e4 band2 they are described by ,wilson 7page #bif1 8,miss4 ,voy40 #dto edition71 as formed by bold-peaked land1 with the islands surrounded by coral-reefs1 extending about half a mile from the shore2 at a distance of a mile from the reefs he found only seven fathoms4 ,as ,i have no reason for supposing there is deep water within these reefs1 ,i have coloured them red4 ,kennedy ,island1 ,n4,e4 of ,duff's4 ,i have been unable to find any account of it4 ,,new ,,caledonia4--,the great barrier-reefs on the shores of this island have already been described 7,figure #e1 ,plate ,,ii474 ,they have been visited by ,labillardire1 ,cook1 and the northern point by ,d',urville2 this latter part so closely resembles an atoll that ,i have coloured it dark blue4 ,the ,loyalty group is situated eastward of this island2 from the chart and description given in the 8,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 they do not appear to have any reefs2 north of this group1 there are some extensive low reefs 7called ,astrolabe and ,beaupr17 which do not seem to be atoll-formed2 these are left uncoloured4 ,,australian ,,barrier-,,reef4--,the limits of this great reef1 which has already been described1 have been coloured from the charts of ,flinders and ,king4 ,in the northern parts1 an atoll-formed reef1 lying outside the barrier1 has been described by ,bligh1 and is coloured dark blue4 ,in the space between ,australia and ,new ,caledonia1 called by ,flinders the ,corallian ,sea1 there are numerous reefs4 ,of these1 some are represented in ,krusenstern's 8,atlas0 as having an atoll-like structure2 namely1 ,bampton shoal1 ,frederic1 ,vine or ,horse-shoe1 and ,alert reefs2 these have been coloured dark blue4 ,,louisiade3 the dangerous reefs which front and surround the western1 southern1 and northern coasts of this so-called peninsula and archipelago1 seem evidently to belong to the barrier class4 ,the land is lofty1 with a low fringe on the coast2 the reefs are distant1 and the sea outside them profoundly deep4 ,nearly all that is known of this group is derived from the labours of ,d',entrecasteaux and ,bougainville3 the latter has represented one continuous reef ninety miles long1 parallel to the shore1 and in places as much as ten miles from it2 coloured pale blue4 ,a little distance northward we have the ,laughlan ,islands1 the reefs round which are engraved in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 in the same manner as in the encircled islands of the ,caroline ,archipelago1 the reef is1 in parts1 a mile and a half from the shore1 to which it does not appear to be attached2 coloured blue4 ,at some little distance from the extremity of the ,louisiade lies the ,wells reef1 described in ,g4 ,hamilton's 8,voyage in ,h4,m4,s4 #8,pandora'0 7page #ajj73 it is said1 8,we found we had got embayed in a double reef1 which will soon be an island40 ,as this statement is only intelligible on the supposition of the reef being crescent or horse-shoe formed1 like so many other submerged annular reefs1 ,i have ventured to colour it blue4 ,,salomon ,,archipelago3 the chart in ,krusenstern's 8,atlas0 shows that these islands are not encircled1 and as coral appears from the works of ,surville1 ,bougainville1 and ,labillardire1 to grow on their shores1 this circumstance1 as in the case of the ,new ,hebrides1 is a presumption that they are fringed4 ,i cannot find out anything from ,d',entrecasteaux's 8,voyage10 regarding the southern islands of the group1 so have left them uncoloured4--,malayta ,island in a rough ,,ms4 chart in the ,admiralty has its northern shore fringed4--,ysabel ,island1 the ,n4,e4 part of this island1 in the same chart1 is also fringed3 ,mendana1 speaking 7,burney1 volume i41 page #bhj7 of an islet adjoining the northern coast1 says it is surrounded by reefs2 the shores1 also of ,port ,praslin appear regularly fringed4--,choiseul ,island4 ,in ,bougainville's 8,chart of ,choiseul ,bay10 parts of the shores are fringed by coral-reefs4-- ,bougainville ,island4 ,according to ,d',entrecasteaux the western shore abounds with coral-reefs1 and the smaller islands are said to be attached to the larger ones by reefs2 all the before-mentioned islands have been coloured red4--,bouka ,islands4 ,captain ,duperrey has kindly informed me in a letter that he passed close round the northern side of this island 7of which a plan is given in his 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage071 and that it was 8garnie d'une bande de rcifs fleur d'eau adherentes au rivage20 and he infers1 from the abundance of coral on the islands north and south of ,bouka1 that the reef probably is of coral2 coloured red4 ,off the north coast of the ,solomon ,archipelago there are several small groups which are little known2 they appear to be low1 and of coral-formation2 and some of them probably have an atoll-like structure2 the ,chevallier ,dillon1 however1 informs me that this is not the case with the ,b4 de ,candelaria4--,outong ,java1 according to the ,spanish navigator1 ,maurelle1 is thus characterised2 but this is the only one which ,i have ventured to colour blue4 ,,new ,,ireland4--,the shores of the ,s4,w4 point of this island and some adjoining islets1 are fringed by reefs1 as may be seen in the 8,atlases of the ,voyages of the #8,coquille' and #8,astrolabe'40 ,m4 ,lesson observes that the reefs are open in front of each streamlet4 ,the ,duke of ,york's ,island is also fringed2 but with regard to the other parts of ,new ,ireland1 ,new ,hanover1 and the small islands lying northward1 ,i have been unable to obtain any information4 ,i will only add that no part of ,new ,ireland appears to be fronted by distant reefs4 ,i have coloured red only the above specified portions4 ,,new ,,britain and the ,,northern ,,shore of ,,new ,,guinea4--,from the charts in the 8,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 and from the 8,hydrog4 ,memoir10 it appears that these coasts are entirely without reefs1 as are the ,schouten ,islands1 lying close to the northern shore of ,new ,guinea4 ,the western and south-western parts of ,new ,guinea1 will be treated of when we come to the islands of the ,east ,indian ,archipelago4 ,,admiralty ,,group4--,from the accounts by ,bougainville1 ,maurelle1 ,d',entrecasteaux1 and the scattered notices collected by ,horsburgh1 it appears1 that some of the many islands composing it1 are high1 with a bold outline2 and others are very low1 small and interlaced with reefs4 ,all the high islands appear to be fronted by distant reefs rising abruptly from the sea1 and within some of which there is reason to believe that the water is deep4 ,i have therefore little doubt they are of the barrier class4--,in the southern part of the group we have ,elizabeth ,island1 which is surrounded by a reef at the distance of a mile2 and two miles eastward of it 7,krusenstern1 8,append40 #ahce1 page #db7 there is a little island containing a lagoon4--,near here1 also lies ,circular-reef 7,horsburgh1 8,direct40 volume i41 page #fia1 #dth edition71 8three or four miles in diameter having deep water inside with an opening at the ,n4,n4,w4 part1 and on the outside steep to40 ,i have from these data1 coloured the group pale blue1 and circular-reef dark blue4--the ,anachorites1 ,echequier1 and ,hermites1 consist of innumerable low islands of coral-formation1 which probably have atoll-like forms2 but not being able to ascertain this1 ,i have not coloured them1 nor ,durour ,island1 which is described by ,carteret as low4 ,the ,,caroline ,,archipelago is now well-known1 chiefly from the hydrographical labours of ,lutk2 it contains about forty groups of atolls1 and three encircled islands1 two of which are engraved in ,figures #b and #g1 ,plate ,i4 ,commencing with the eastern part2 the encircling reef round ,ualen appears to be only about half a mile from the shore2 but as the land is low and covered with mangroves 78,voyage autour du ,monde10 par ,f4 ,lutk1 volume i41 page #cci71 the real margin has not probably been ascertained4 ,the extreme depth in one of the harbours within the reef is thirty-three fathoms 7see charts in 8,atlas of #8,coquille's' ,voyage071 and outside at half a mile distant from the reef1 no bottom was obtained with two hundred and fifty fathoms4 ,the reef is surmounted by many islets1 and the lagoon-like channel within is mostly shallow1 and appears to have been much encroached on by the low land surrounding the central mountains2 these facts show that time has allowed much detritus to accumulate2 coloured pale blue4-- ,pouynipte1 or ,seniavine4 ,in the greater part of the circumference of this island1 the reef is about one mile and three quarters distant2 on the north side it is five miles off the included high islets4 ,the reef is broken in several places2 and just within it1 the depth in one place is thirty fathoms1 and in another1 twenty-eight1 beyond which1 to all appearance1 there was 8un porte vaste et sur0 7,lutk1 volume ii41 page #d72 coloured pale blue4--,hogoleu or ,roug4 ,this wonderful group contains at least sixty-two islands1 and its reef is one hundred and thirty-five miles in circuit4 ,of the islands1 only a few1 about six or eight 7see 8,hydrog4 ,descrip40 page #dbh1 of the 8,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 and the large accompanying chart taken chiefly from that given by ,duperrey7 are high1 and the rest are all small1 low1 and formed on the reef4 ,the depth of the great interior lake has not been ascertained2 but ,captain ,d',urville appears to have entertained no doubt about the possibility of taking in a frigate4 ,the reef lies no less than fourteen miles distant from the northern coasts of the interior high islands1 seven from their western sides1 and twenty from the southern2 the sea is deep outside4 ,this island is a likeness on a grand scale to the ,gambier group in the ,low ,archipelago4 ,of the groups of low#a islands forming the chief part of the ,caroline ,archipelago1 all those of larger size1 have the true atoll-structure 7as may be seen in the 8,atlas0 by ,captain ,lutk71 and some even of the very small ones1 as ,macaskill and ,duperrey1 of which plans are given in the 8,atlas of the #8,coquille's' ,voyage40 ,there are1 however1 some low small islands of coral-formation1 namely ,ollap1 ,tamatam1 ,bigali1 ,satahoual1 which do not contain lagoons2 but it is probable that lagoons originally existed1 but have since filled up3 ,lutk 7volume ii41 page #cjd7 seems to have thought that all the low islands1 with only one exception1 contained lagoons4 ,from the sketches1 and from the manner in which the margins of these islands are engraved in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,coquille'10 it might have been thought that they were not low2 but by a comparison with the remarks of ,lutk 7volume ii41 page #ajg1 regarding ,bigali7 and of ,freycinet 78,hydrog4 ,memoir #8,l',uranie' ,voyage10 page #ahh1 regarding ,tamatam1 ,ollap1 etc471 it will be seen that the artist must have represented the land incorrectly4 ,the most southern island in the group1 namely ,piguiram1 is not coloured1 because ,i have found no account of it4 ,nougouor1 or ,monte ,verdison1 which was not visited by ,lutk1 is described and figured by ,mr4 ,bennett 78,united ,service ,journal10 ,january #ahcb7 as an atoll4 ,all the above-mentioned islands have been coloured blue4 #a ,in ,d',urville and ,lottin's chart1 ,peserare is written with capital letters2 but this evidently is an error1 for it is one of the low islets on the reef of ,namonouyto 7see ,lutk's charts7--a regular atoll4 ,,western ,,part ,,of ,,the ,,caroline ,,archipelago4--,fais ,island is ninety feet high1 and is surrounded1 as ,i have been informed by ,admiral ,lutk1 by a narrow reef of living coral1 of which the broadest part1 as represented in the charts1 is only #aej yards2 coloured red4-- ,philip ,island41 ,i believe1 is low2 but ,hunter1 in his 8,historical ,journal10 gives no clear account of it2 uncoloured4--,elivi2 from the manner in which the islets on the reefs are engraved1 in the 8,atlas of the #8,astrolabe's' ,voyage10 ,i should have thought they were above the ordinary height1 but ,admiral ,lutk assures me this is not the case3 they form a regular atoll2 coloured blue4--,gouap 7,eap of ,chamisso71 is a high island with a reef 7see chart in 8,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'071 more than a mile distant in most parts from the shore1 and two miles in one part4 ,captain ,d',urville thinks that there would be anchorage 78,hydrog4 ,descript4 #8,astrolabe' ,voyage10 page #dcf7 for ships within the reef1 if a passage could be found2 coloured pale blue4--,goulou1 from the chart in the 8#8,astrolabe's' ,atlas10 appears to be an atoll4 ,d',urville 78,hydrog4 ,descript40 page #dcg7 speaks of the low islets on the reef2 coloured dark blue4 ,,pelew ,,islands4--,krusenstern speaks of some of the islands being mountainous2 the reefs are distant from the shore1 and there are spaces within them1 and not opposite valleys1 with from ten to fifteen fathoms4 ,according to a ,,ms4 chart of the group by ,lieutenant ,elmer in the ,admiralty1 there is a large space within the reef with deepish water2 although the high land does not hold a central position with respect to the reefs1 as is generally the case1 ,i have little doubt that the reefs of the ,pelew ,islands ought to be ranked with the barrier class1 and ,i have coloured them pale blue4 ,in ,lieutenant ,elmer's chart there is a horseshoe-formed shoal1 laid down thirteen miles ,n4,w4 of ,pelew1 with fifteen fathoms within the reef1 and some dry banks on it2 coloured dark blue4--,spanish1 ,martires1 ,sanserot1 ,pulo ,anna and ,mariere ,islands are not coloured1 because ,i know nothing about them1 excepting that according to ,krusenstern1 the second1 third1 and fourth mentioned1 are low1 placed on coral-reefs1 and therefore1 perhaps1 contain lagoons2 but ,pulo ,mariere is a little higher4 ,,mariana ,,archipelago1 or ,,ladrones4--,guahan4 ,almost the whole of this island is fringed by reefs1 which extend in most parts about a third of a mile from the land4 ,even where the reefs are most extensive1 the water within them is shallow4 ,in several parts there is a navigable channel for boats and canoes within the reefs4 ,in ,freycinet's 8,hydrog4 ,mem40 there is an account of these reefs1 and in the 8,atlas10 a map on a large scale2 coloured red4--,rota4 8,l'ile est presque entirement entoure des rcifs0 7page #bab1 ,freycinet's 8,hydrog4 ,mem4074 ,these reefs project about a quarter of a mile from the shore2 coloured red4--,tinian4 ,the eastern coast is precipitous1 and is without reefs2 but the western side is fringed like the last island2 coloured red4--,saypan4 ,the ,n4,e4 coast1 and likewise the western shores appear to be fringed2 but there is a great1 irregular1 horn-like reef projecting far from this side2 coloured red4--,farallon de ,medinilla1 appears so regularly and closely fringed in ,freycinet's charts1 that ,i have ventured to colour it red1 although nothing is said about reefs in the 8,hydrographical ,memoir40 ,the several islands which form the northern part of the group are volcanic 7with the exception perhaps of ,torres1 which resembles in form the madreporitic island of ,medinilla71 and appear to be without reefs4--,mangs1 however1 is described 7by ,freycinet1 page #bai1 8,hydrog407 from some ,spanish charts1 as formed of small islands placed 8au milieu des nombreux rcifs20 and as these reefs in the general chart of the group do not project so much as a mile2 and as there is no appearance from a double line1 of the existence of deep water within1 ,i have ventured1 although with much hesitation1 to colour them red4 ,respecting ,folger and ,marshall ,islands which lie some way east of the ,marianas1 ,i can find out nothing1 excepting that they are probably low4 ,krusenstern says this of ,marshall ,island2 and ,folger ,island is written with small letters in ,d',urville's chart2 uncoloured4 ,,bonin or ,,arzobispo ,,group4--,peel ,island has been examined by ,captain ,beechey1 to whose kindness ,i am much indebted for giving me information regarding it3 8,at ,port ,lloyd there is a great deal of coral2 and the inner harbour is entirely formed by coral-reefs1 which extend outside the port along the coast40 ,captain ,beechey1 in another part of his letter to me1 alludes to the reefs fringing the island in all directions2 but at the same time it must be observed that the surf washes the volcanic rocks of the coast in the greater part of its circumference4 ,i do not know whether the other islands of the ,archipelago are fringed2 ,i have coloured ,peel ,island red4--,grampus ,island to the eastward1 does not appear 7,meare's 8,voyage10 page #ie7 to have any reefs1 nor does ,rosario ,island 7from ,lutk's chart71 which lies to the westward4 ,respecting the few other islands in this part of the sea1 namely the ,sulphur ,islands1 with an active volcano1 and those lying between ,bonin and ,japan 7which are situated near the extreme limit in latitude1 at which reefs are formed71 ,i have not been able to find any clear account4 ,,west ,,end ,,of ,,new ,,guinea4--,port ,dory4 ,from the charts in the 8,voyage of the #8,coquille'10 it would appear that the coast in this part is fringed by coral-reefs2 ,m4 ,lesson1 however1 remarks that the coral is sickly2 coloured red4--,waigiou4 ,a considerable portion of the northern shores of these islands is seen in the charts 7on a large scale7 in ,freycinet's 8,atlas0 to be fringed by coral-reefs4 ,forrest 7page #ba1 8,voyage to ,new ,guinea07 alludes to the coral-reefs lining the heads of ,piapis ,bay2 and ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #eii1 #dth edition71 speaking of the islands in ,dampier ,strait1 says 8sharp coral-rocks line their shores20 coloured red4--,in the sea north of these islands1 we have ,guedes 7or ,freewill1 or ,st4 ,david's71 which from the chart given in the #dto edition of ,carteret's 8,voyage10 must be an atoll4 ,krusenstern says the islets are very low2 coloured blue4--,carteret's ,shoals1 in #b #ec ,n41 are described as circular1 with stony points showing all round1 with deeper water in the middle2 coloured blue4--,aiou2 the plan of this group1 given in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,astrolabe'10 shows that it is an atoll2 and1 from a chart in ,forrest's 8,voyage10 it appears that there is twelve fathoms within the circular reef2 coloured blue4--,the ,s4,w4 coast of ,new ,guinea appears to be low1 muddy1 and devoid of reefs4 ,the ,arru1 ,timor laut1 and ,tenimber groups have lately been examined by ,captain ,kolff1 the ,,ms4 translation of which1 by ,mr4 ,w4 ,earl1 ,i have been permitted to read1 through the kindness of ,captain ,washington1 ,r4,n4 ,these islands are mostly rather low1 and are surrounded by distant reefs 7the ,ki ,islands1 however1 are lofty1 and1 from ,mr4 ,stanley's survey1 appear without reefs72 the sea in some parts is shallow1 in others profoundly deep 7as near ,larrat74 ,from the imperfection of the published charts1 ,i have been unable to decide to which class these reefs belong4 ,from the distance to which they extend from the land1 where the sea is very deep1 ,i am strongly inclined to believe they ought to come within the barrier class1 and be coloured blue2 but ,i have been forced to leave them uncoloured4--,the last-mentioned groups are connected with the east end of ,ceram by a chain of small islands1 of which the small groups of ,ceram-laut1 ,goram and ,keffing are surrounded by very extensive reefs1 projecting into deep water1 which1 as in the last case1 ,i strongly suspect belong to the barrier class2 but ,i have not coloured them4 ,from the south side of ,keffing1 the reefs project five miles 7,windsor ,earl's 8,sailing ,direct4 for the ,arafura ,sea10 page #i74 ,,ceram4--,in various charts which ,i have examined1 several parts of the coast are represented as fringed by reefs4--,manipa ,island1 between ,ceram and ,bourou1 in an old ,,ms4 chart in the ,admiralty1 is fringed by a very irregular reef1 partly dry at low water1 which ,i do not doubt is of coral-formation2 both islands coloured red4--,bourou2 parts of this island appear fringed by coral-reefs1 namely1 the eastern coast1 as seen in ,freycinet's chart2 and ,cajeli ,bay1 which is said by ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #fcj7 to be lined by coral-reefs1 that stretch out a little way1 and have only a few feet water on them4 ,in several charts1 portions of the islands forming the ,,amboina ,,group are fringed by reefs2 for instance1 ,noessa1 ,harenca1 and ,ucaster1 in ,freycinet's charts4 ,the above-mentioned islands have been coloured red1 although the evidence is not very satisfactory4--,north of ,bourou the parallel line of the ,xulla ,isles extends3 ,i have not been able to find out anything about them1 excepting that ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #edc7 says that the northern shore is surrounded by a reef at the distance of two or three miles2 uncoloured4--,mysol ,group2 the ,kanary ,islands are said by ,forrest 78,voyage10 page #acj7 to be divided from each other by deep straits1 and are lined with coral-rocks2 coloured red4--,guebe1 lying between ,waigiou and ,gilolo1 is engraved as if fringed2 and it is said by ,freycinet1 that all the soundings under five fathoms were on coral2 coloured red4--,gilolo4 ,in a chart published by ,dalrymple1 the numerous islands on the western1 southern 7,batchian and the ,strait of ,patientia71 and eastern sides appear fringed by narrow reefs2 these reefs1 ,i suppose1 are of coral1 for it is said in 8,malte ,brun0 7volume xii41 page #aef71 8,sur les cotes 7of ,batchian7 comme dans le plupart des iles de cet archipel1 il y a de rocs de medrepores d'une beaut et d'une varit infinies40 ,forrest1 also 7page #ej71 says ,seland1 near ,batchian1 is a little island with reefs of coral2 coloured red4--,morty ,island 7north of ,gilolo74 ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #ejf7 says the northern coast is lined by reefs1 projecting one or two miles1 and having no soundings close to them2 ,i have left it uncoloured1 although1 as in some former cases1 it ought probably to be pale blue4--,celebes4 ,the western and northern coasts appear in the charts to be bold and without reefs4 ,near the extreme northern point1 however1 an islet in the ,straits of ,limbe1 and parts of the adjoining shore1 appear to be fringed3 the east side of the bay of ,manado1 has deep water1 and is fringed by sand and coral 78#8,astrol4' ,voyage10 ,hydrog4 ,part1 pages #dec-d72 this extreme point1 therefore1 ,i have coloured red4--,of the islands leading from this point to ,magindanao1 ,i have not been able to find any account1 except of ,serangani1 which appears surrounded by narrow reefs2 and ,forrest 78,voyage10 page #afd7 speaks of coral on its shores2 ,i have1 therefore1 coloured this island red4 ,to the eastward of this chain lie several islands2 of which ,i cannot find any account1 except of ,karkalang1 which is said by ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #ejd7 to be lined by a dangerous reef1 projecting several miles from the northern shore2 not coloured4 ,,islands ,,near ,,timor4--,the account of the following islands is taken from ,captain ,d4 ,kolff's 8,voyage10 in #ahbe1 translated by ,mr4 ,w4 ,earl1 from the ,dutch4--,lette has 8reefs extending along shore at the distance of half a mile from the land40--,moa has reefs on the ,s4,w4 part4--,lakor has a reef lining its shore2 these islands are coloured red4--,still more eastward1 ,luan has1 differently from the last-mentioned islands1 an extensive reef2 it is steep outside1 and within there is a depth of twelve feet2 from these facts1 it is impossible to decide to which class this island belongs4--,kissa1 off the point of ,timor1 has its 8shore fronted by a reef1 steep too on the outer side1 over which small proahs can go at the time of high water20 coloured red4--,timor2 most of the points1 and some considerable spaces of the northern shore1 are seen in ,freycinet's chart to be fringed by coral-reefs2 and mention is made of them in the accompanying 8,hydrog4 ,memoir20 coloured red4--,savu1 ,s4,e4 of ,timor1 appears in ,flinders' chart to be fringed2 but ,i have not coloured it1 as ,i do not know that the reefs are of coral4-- ,sandalwood ,island has1 according to ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #fjg71 a reef on its southern shore1 four miles distant from the land2 as the neighbouring sea is deep1 and generally bold1 this probably is a barrier- reef1 but ,i have not ventured to colour it4 ,n4,w4 ,,coast ,,of ,,australia4--,it appears1 in ,captain ,king's ,sailing ,directions 78,narrative of ,survey10 volume ii1 pages #cbe-cfi71 that there are many extensive coral-reefs skirting1 often at considerable distances1 the ,n4,w4 shores1 and encompassing the small adjoining islets4 ,deep water1 in no instance1 is represented in the charts between these reefs and the land2 and1 therefore1 they probably belong to the fringing class4 ,but as they extend far into the sea1 which is generally shallow1 even in places where the land seems to be somewhat precipitous2 ,i have not coloured them4 ,houtman's ,abrolhos 7latitude #bh ,s4 on west coast7 have lately been surveyed by ,captain ,wickham 7as described in 8,naut4 ,mag40 #ahda1 page #eaa73 they lie on the edge of a steeply shelving bank1 which extends about thirty miles seaward1 along the whole line of coast4 ,the two southern reefs1 or islands1 enclose a lagoon-like space of water1 varying in depth from five to fifteen fathoms1 and in one spot with twenty-three fathoms4 ,the greater part of the island has been formed on their inland sides1 by the accumulation of fragments of coral2 the seaward face consisting of nearly bare ledges of rock4 ,some of the specimens1 brought home by ,captain ,wickham1 contained fragments of marine shells1 but others did not2 and these closely resembled a formation at ,king ,george's ,sound1 principally due to the action of the wind on calcareous dust1 which ,i shall describe in a forthcoming part4 ,from the extreme irregularity of these reefs with their lagoons1 and from their position on a bank1 the usual depth of which is only thirty fathoms1 ,i have not ventured to class them with atolls1 and hence have left them uncoloured4--,rowley ,shoals4 ,these lie some way from the ,n4,w4 coast of ,australia3 according to ,captain ,king 78,narrative of ,survey10 volume i41 page #fj71 they are of coral-formation4 ,they rise abruptly from the sea1 and ,captain ,king had no bottom with #agj fathoms close to them4 ,three of them are crescent-shaped2 they are mentioned by ,mr4 ,lyell1 on the authority of ,captain ,king1 with reference to the direction of their open sides4 8,a third oval reef of the same group is entirely submerged0 78,principles of ,geology10 book iii4 chapter xviii472 coloured blue4--,scott's ,reefs1 lying north of ,rowley ,shoals1 are briefly described by ,captain ,wickham 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahda1 page #ddj73 they appear to be of great size1 of a circular form1 and 8with smooth water within1 forming probably a lagoon of great extent40 ,there is a break on the western side1 where there probably is an entrance3 the water is very deep off these reefs2 coloured blue4 ,proceeding westward along the great volcanic chain of the ,east ,indian ,archipelago1 ,solor ,strait is represented in a chart published by ,dalrymple from a ,dutch ,,ms41 as fringed2 as are parts of ,flores1 of ,adenara1 and of ,solor4 ,horsburgh speaks of coral growing on these shores2 and therefore ,i have no doubt that the reefs are of coral1 and accordingly have coloured them red4 ,we hear from ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #fjb7 that a coral-flat bounds the shores of ,sapy ,bay4 ,from the same authority it appears 7page #faj7 that reefs fringe the island of ,timor-,young1 on the ,n4 shore of ,sumbawa2 and1 likewise 7page #fjj71 that ,bally town in ,lombock1 is fronted by a reef1 stretching along the shore at a distance of a hundred fathoms1 with channels through it for boats2 these places1 therefore1 have been coloured red4--,bally ,island4 ,in a ,dutch ,,ms4 chart on a large scale of ,java1 which was brought from that island by ,dr4 ,horsfield1 who had the kindness to show it me at the ,india ,house1 its western1 northern1 and southern shores appear very regularly fringed by a reef 7see also ,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #eic72 and as coral is found abundantly there1 ,i have not the least doubt that the reef is of coral1 and therefore have coloured it red4 ,,java4--,my information regarding the reefs of this great island is derived from the chart just mentioned4 ,the greater part of ,madura is represented in it as regularly fringed1 and likewise portions of the coast of ,java immediately south of it4 ,dr4 ,horsfield informs me that coral is very abundant near ,sourabaya4 ,the islets and parts of the ,n4 coast of ,java1 west of ,point ,buang1 or ,japara1 are fringed by reefs1 said to be of coral4 ,lubeck1 or ,bavian ,islands1 lying at some distance from the shore of ,java1 are regularly fringed by coral-reefs4 ,carimon ,java appears equally so1 though it is not directly said that the reefs are of coral2 there is a depth between thirty and forty fathoms round these islands4 ,parts of the shores of ,sunda ,strait1 where the water is from forty to eighty fathoms deep1 and the islets near ,batavia appear in several charts to be fringed4 ,in the ,dutch chart the southern shore1 in the narrowest part of the island1 is in two places fringed by reefs of coral4 ,west of ,segorrowodee ,bay1 and the extreme ,s4,e4 and ,e4 portions are likewise fringed by coral-reefs2 all the above-mentioned places coloured red4 ,macassar ,strait2 the east coast of ,borneo appears1 in most parts1 free from reefs1 and where they occur1 as on the east coast of ,pamaroong1 the sea is very shallow2 hence no part is coloured4 ,in ,macassar ,strait itself1 in about latitude #b ,s41 there are many small islands with coral-shoals projecting far from them4 ,there are also 7old charts by ,dalrymple7 numerous little flats of coral1 not rising to the surface of the water1 and shelving suddenly from five fathoms to no bottom with fifty fathoms2 they do not appear to have a lagoon-like structure4 ,there are similar coral-shoals a little farther south2 and in latitude #d #ee there are two1 which are engraved from modern surveys1 in a manner which might represent an annular reef with deep water inside3 ,captain ,moresby1 however1 who was formerly in this sea1 doubts this fact1 so that ,i have left them uncoloured3 at the same time ,i may remark1 that these two shoals make a nearer approach to the atoll-like structure than any other within the ,e4 ,indian ,archipelago4 ,southward of these shoals there are other low islands and irregular coral-reefs2 and in the space of sea1 north of the great volcanic chain1 from ,timor to ,java1 we have also other islands1 such as the ,postillions1 ,kalatoa1 ,tokan-,bessees1 c41 which are chiefly low1 and are surrounded by very irregular and distant reefs4 ,from the imperfect charts ,i have seen1 ,i have not been able to decide whether they belong to the atoll or barrier-classes1 or whether they merely fringe submarine banks1 and gently sloping land4 ,in the ,bay of ,bonin1 between the two southern arms of ,celebes1 there are numerous coral- reefs2 but none of them seem to have an atoll-like structure4 ,i have1 therefore1 not coloured any of the islands in this part of the sea2 ,i think it1 however1 exceedingly probable that some of them ought to be blue4 ,i may add that there is a harbour on the ,s4,e4 coast of ,bouton which1 according to an old chart1 is formed by a reef1 parallel to the shore1 with deep water within2 and in the 8,voyage of the #8,coquille'10 some neighbouring islands are represented with reefs a good way distant1 but ,i do not know whether with deep water within4 ,i have not thought the evidence sufficient to permit me to colour them4 ,,sumatra4--,commencing with the west coast and outlying islands1 ,engano ,island is represented in the published chart as surrounded by a narrow reef1 and ,napier1 in his 8,sailing ,directions10 speaks of the reef being of coral 7also ,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #aae72 coloured red4--,rat ,island 7#c #ea ,s47 is surrounded by reefs of coral1 partly dry at low water1 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #if74--,trieste ,island 7#d #b ,s474 ,the shore is represented in a chart which ,i saw at the ,india ,house1 as fringed in such a manner1 that ,i feel sure the fringe consists of coral2 but as the island is so low1 that the sea sometimes flows quite over it 7,dampier1 8,voyage10 volume i41 page #dgd71 ,i have not coloured it4--,pulo ,dooa 7latitude #c74 ,in an old chart it is said there are chasms in the reefs round the island1 admitting boats to the watering-place1 and that the southern islet consists of a mass of sand and coral4--,pulo ,pisang2 ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #hf7 says that the rocky coral-bank1 which stretches about forty yards from the shore1 is steep to all round3 in a chart1 also1 which ,i have seen1 the island is represented as regularly fringed4--,pulo ,mintao is lined with reefs on its west side 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #ajg74--,pulo ,baniak2 the same authority 7volume ii41 page #aje71 speaking of a part1 says it is faced with coral-rocks4--,minguin 7#c #cf ,n474 ,a coral-reef fronts this place1 and projects into the sea nearly a quarter of a mile 78,notices of the ,indian ,arch40 published at ,singapore1 page #aje74--,pulo ,brassa 7#e #df ,n474 ,a reef surrounds it at a cable's length 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #fj74 ,i have coloured all the above-specified points red4 ,i may here add1 that both ,horsburgh and ,mr4 ,moor 7in the 8,notices0 just alluded to7 frequently speak of the numerous reefs and banks of coral on the west coast of ,sumatra2 but these nowhere have the structure of a barrier-reef1 and ,marsden 78,history of ,sumatra07 states1 that where the coast is flat1 the fringing-reefs extend furthest from it4 ,the northern and southern points1 and the greater part of the east coast1 are low1 and faced with mud banks1 and therefore without coral4 ,,nicobar ,,islands4--,the chart represents the islands of this group as fringed by reefs4 ,with regard to ,great ,nicobar1 ,captain ,moresby informs me1 that it is fringed by reefs of coral1 extending between two and three hundred yards from the shore4 ,the ,northern ,nicobars appear so regularly fringed in the published charts1 that ,i have no doubt the reefs are of coral4 ,this group1 therefore1 is coloured red4 ,,andaman ,,islands4--,from an examination of the ,,ms4 chart1 on a large scale1 of this island1 by ,captain ,arch4 ,blair1 in the ,admiralty1 several portions of the coast appear fringed2 and as ,horsburgh speaks of coral-reefs being numerous in the vicinity of these islands1 ,i should have coloured them red1 had not some expressions in a paper in the 8,asiatic ,researches0 7volume iv41 page #djb7 led me to doubt the existence of reefs2 uncoloured4 ,the coast of ,malacca1 ,tenasserim and the coasts northward1 appear in the greater part to be low and muddy3 where reefs occur1 as in parts of ,malacca ,straits1 and near ,singapore1 they are of the fringing kind2 but the water is so shoal1 that ,i have not coloured them4 ,in the sea1 however1 between ,malacca and the west coast of ,borneo1 where there is a greater depth from forty to fifty fathoms1 ,i have coloured red some of the groups1 which are regularly fringed4 ,the northern ,natunas and the ,anambas ,islands are represented in the charts on a large scale1 published in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,favourite'10 as fringed by reefs of coral1 with very shoal water within them4--,tumbelan and ,bunoa ,islands 7#a ,n47 are represented in the ,english charts as surrounded by a very regular fringe4-- ,st4 ,barbes 7#j #ae ,n47 is said by ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #bgi7 to be fronted by a reef1 over which boats can land only at high water4--,the shore of ,borneo at ,tunjong ,apee is also fronted by a reef1 extending not far from the land 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #dfh74 ,these places ,i have coloured red2 although with some hesitation1 as the water is shallow4 ,i might perhaps have added ,pulo ,leat1 in ,gaspar ,strait1 ,lucepara1 and ,carimata2 but as the sea is confined and shallow1 and the reefs not very regular1 ,i have left them uncoloured4 ,the water shoals gradually towards the whole west coast of ,borneo3 ,i cannot make out that it has any reefs of coral4 ,the islands1 however1 off the northern extremity1 and near the ,s4,w4 end of ,palawan1 are fringed by very distant coral-reefs2 thus the reefs in the case of ,balabac are no less than five miles from the land2 but the sea1 in the whole of this district1 is so shallow1 that the reefs might be expected to extend very far from the land4 ,i have not1 therefore1 thought myself authorised to colour them4 ,the ,n4,e4 point of ,borneo1 where the water is very shoal1 is connected with ,magindanao by a chain of islands called the ,sooloo ,archipelago1 about which ,i have been able to obtain very little information2 ,pangootaran1 although ten miles long1 entirely consists of a bed of coral-rock 78,notices of ,e4 ,indian ,arch40 page #eh73 ,i believe from ,horsburgh that the island is low2 not coloured4--,tahow ,bank1 in some old charts1 appears like a submerged atoll2 not coloured4 ,forrest 78,voyage10 page #ba7 states that one of the islands near ,sooloo is surrounded by coral-rocks2 but there is no distant reef4 ,near the ,s4 end of ,basselan1 some of the islets in the chart accompanying ,forrest's 8,voyage10 appear fringed with reefs2 hence ,i have coloured1 though unwillingly1 parts of the ,sooloo group red4 ,the sea between ,sooloo and ,palawan1 near the shoal coast of ,borneo1 is interspersed with irregular reefs and shoal patches2 not coloured3 but in the northern part of this sea1 there are two low islets1 ,cagayanes and ,cavilli1 surrounded by extensive coral-reefs2 the breakers round the latter 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #eac7 extend five or six miles from a sandbank1 which forms the only dry part2 these breakers are steep to outside2 there appears to be an opening through them on one side1 with four or five fathoms within3 from this description1 ,i strongly suspect that ,cavilli ought to be considered an atoll2 but1 as ,i have not seen any chart of it1 on even a moderately large scale1 ,i have not coloured it4 ,the islets off the northern end of ,palawan1 are in the same case as those off the southern end1 namely they are fringed by reefs1 some way distant from the shore1 but the water is exceedingly shallow2 uncoloured4 ,the western shore of ,palawan will be treated of under the head of ,china ,sea4 ,,philippine ,,archipelago4--,a chart on a large scale of ,appoo shoal1 which lies near the ,s4,e4 coast of ,mindoro1 has been executed by ,captain ,d4 ,ross3 it appears atoll-formed1 but with rather an irregular outline2 its diameter is about ten miles2 there are two well-defined passages leading into the interior lagoon1 which appears open2 close outside the reef all round1 there is no bottom with seventy fathoms2 coloured blue4--,mindoro3 the ,n4,w4 coast is represented in several charts1 as fringed by a reef1 and ,luban ,island is said1 by ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #dcf71 to be 8lined by a reef40--,luzon3 ,mr4 ,cuming1 who has lately investigated with so much success the ,natural ,history of the ,philippines1 informs me1 that about three miles of the shore north of ,point ,st4 ,jago1 is fringed by a reef2 as are 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #dcg7 the ,three ,friars off ,silanguin ,bay4 ,between ,point ,capones and ,playa ,honda1 the coast is 8lined by a coral-reef1 stretching out nearly a mile in some places10 7,horsburgh72 and ,mr4 ,cuming visited some fringing- reefs on parts of this coast1 namely1 near ,puebla1 ,iba1 and ,mansinglor4 ,in the neighbourhood of ,solon-solon ,bay1 the shore is lined 7,horsburgh ii41 page #dci7 by coral-reefs1 stretching out a great way3 there are also reefs about the islets off ,solamague2 and as ,i am informed by ,mr4 ,cuming1 near ,st4 ,catalina1 and a little north of it4 ,the same gentleman informs me there are reefs on the ,s4,e4 point of this island in front of ,samar1 extending from ,malalabon to ,bulusan4 ,these appear to be the principal fringing-reefs on the coasts of ,luzon2 and they have all been coloured red4 ,mr4 ,cuming informs me that none of them have deep water within2 although it appears from ,horsburgh that some few extend to a considerable distance from the shore4 ,within the ,philippine ,archipelago1 the shores of the islands do not appear to be commonly fringed1 with the exception of the ,s4 shore of ,masbate1 and nearly the whole of ,bohol2 which are both coloured red4 ,on the ,s4 shore of ,magindanao1 ,bunwoot ,island is surrounded 7according to ,forrest1 8,voyage10 page #bec71 by a coral-reef1 which in the chart appears one of the fringing class4 ,with respect to the eastern coasts of the whole ,archipelago1 ,i have not been able to obtain any account4 ,,babuyan ,,islands4--,horsburgh says 7volume ii41 page #ddb71 coral-reefs line the shores of the harbour in ,fuga2 and the charts show there are other reefs about these islands4 ,camiguin has its shore in parts lined by coral-rock 7,horsburgh1 page #ddc72 about a mile off shore there is between thirty and thirty-five fathoms4 ,the plan of ,port ,san ,pio ,quinto shows that its shores are fringed with coral2 coloured red4--,,babuyan ,,islands3 ,horsburgh1 speaking of the southern part of the group 7volume ii41 page #dde7 says the shores of both islands are fortified by a reef1 and through some of the gaps in it1 the natives can pass in their boats in fine weather2 the bottom near the land is coral-rock4 ,from the published charts1 it is evident that several of these islands are most regularly fringed2 coloured red4 ,the northern islands are left uncoloured1 as ,i have been unable to find any account of them4--,,formosa4 ,the shores1 especially the western one1 seem chiefly composed of mud and sand1 and ,i cannot make out that they are anywhere lined by reefs2 except in a harbour 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #ddi7 at the extreme northern point3 hence1 of course1 the whole of this island is left uncoloured4 ,the small adjoining islands are in the same case4-- ,,patchow1 or ,,madjiko-,,sima ,,groups4 ,patchuson has been described by ,captain ,broughton 78,voy4 to the ,n4 ,pacific10 page #aia72 he says1 the boats1 with some difficulty1 found a passage through the coral-reefs1 which extend along the coast1 nearly half a mile off it4 ,the boats were well sheltered within the reef2 but it does not appear that the water is deep there4 ,outside the reef the depth is very irregular1 varying from five to fifty fathoms2 the form of the land is not very abrupt2 coloured red4--,taypin-san2 from the description given 7page #aie7 by the same author1 it appears that a very irregular reef extends1 to the distance of several miles1 from the southern island2 but whether it encircles a space of deep water is not evident2 nor1 indeed1 whether these outlying reefs are connected with those more immediately adjoining the land2 left uncoloured4 ,i may here just add that the shore of ,kumi 7lying west of ,patchow71 has a narrow reef attached to it in the plan of it1 in ,la ,peyrouse's 8,atlas20 but it does not appear in the account of the voyage that it is of coral2 uncoloured4--,,loo ,,choo4 ,the greater part of the coast of this moderately hilly island1 is skirted by reefs1 which do not extend far from the shore1 and which do not leave a channel of deep water within them1 as may be seen in the charts accompanying ,captain ,b4 ,hall's voyage to ,loo ,choo 7see also remarks in ,appendix1 pages xxi4 and xxv474 ,there are1 however1 some ports with deep water1 formed by reefs in front of valleys1 in the same manner as happens at ,mauritius4 ,captain ,beechey1 in a letter to me1 compares these reefs with those encircling the ,society ,islands2 but there appears to me a marked difference between them1 in the less distance at which the ,loo ,choo reefs lie from the land with relation to the probable submarine inclination1 and in the absence of an interior deep water-moat or channel1 parallel to the land4 ,hence1 ,i have classed these reefs with fringing-reefs1 and coloured them red4--,,pescadores 7west of ,formosa74 ,dampier 7volume i41 page #daf71 has compared the appearance of the land to the southern parts of ,england4 ,the islands are interlaced with coral-reefs2 but as the water is very shoal1 and as spits of sand and gravel 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #dej7 extend far out from them1 it is impossible to draw any inferences regarding the nature of the reefs4 ,,china ,,sea4--,proceeding from north to south1 we first meet the ,pratas ,shoal 7latitude #bj ,n47 which1 according to ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #cce71 is composed of coral1 is of a circular form1 and has a low islet on it4 ,the reef is on a level with the water's edge1 and when the sea runs high1 there are breakers mostly all round1 8but the water within seems pretty deep in some places2 although steep-to in most parts outside1 there appear to be several parts where a ship might find anchorage outside the breakers20 coloured blue4--,the ,paracells have been accurately surveyed by ,captain ,d4 ,ross1 and charts on a large scale published3 but few low islets have been formed on these shoals1 and this seems to be a general circumstance in the ,china ,sea2 the sea close outside the reefs is very deep2 several of them have a lagoon-like structure2 or separate islets 7,prattle1 ,robert1 ,drummond1 etc47 are so arranged round a moderately shallow space1 as to appear as if they had once formed one large atoll4-- ,bombay ,shoal 7one of the ,paracells7 has the form of an annular reef1 and is 8apparently deep within20 it seems to have an entrance 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #ccb7 on its west side2 it is very steep outside4--,discovery ,shoal1 also is of an oval form1 with a lagoon-like space within1 and three openings leading into it1 in which there is a depth from two to twenty fathoms4 ,outside1 at the distance 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #ccc7 of only twenty yards from the reef1 soundings could not be obtained4 ,the ,paracells are coloured blue4--,macclesfield ,bank3 this is a coral-bank of great size1 lying east of the ,paracells2 some parts of the bank are level1 with a sandy bottom1 but1 generally1 the depth is very irregular4 ,it is intersected by deep cuts or channels4 ,i am not able to perceive in the published charts 7its limits1 however1 are not very accurately known7 whether the central part is deeper1 which ,i suspect is the case1 as in the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 in the ,indian ,ocean2 not coloured4--,scarborough ,shoal3 this coral-shoal is engraved with a double row of crosses1 forming a circle1 as if there was deep water within the reef3 close outside there was no bottom1 with a hundred fathoms2 coloured blue4--,the sea off the west coast of ,palawan and the northern part of ,borneo is strewed with shoals3 ,swallow ,shoal1 according to ,horsburgh 7volume ii41 page #dca7 8is formed1 like most of the shoals hereabouts1 of a belt of coral-rocks1 8with a basin of deep water within40--,half-,moon ,shoal has a similar structure2 ,captain ,d4 ,ross describes it1 as a narrow belt of coral-rock1 8with a basin of deep water in the centre10 and deep sea close outside4--,bombay ,shoal appears 7,horsburgh1 volume ii41 page #dcb7 8to be a basin of smooth water surrounded by breakers40 ,these three shoals ,i have coloured blue4--,the ,paraquas ,shoals are of a circular form1 with deep gaps running through them2 not coloured4--,a bank gradually shoaling to the depth of thirty fathoms1 extends to a distance of about twenty miles from the northern part of ,borneo1 and to thirty miles from the northern part of ,palawan4 ,near the land this bank appears tolerably free from danger1 but a little further out it is thickly studded with coral-shoals1 which do not generally rise quite to the surface2 some of them are very steep-to1 and others have a fringe of shoal-water round them4 ,i should have thought that these shoals had level surfaces1 had it not been for the statement made by ,horsburgh 8that most of the shoals hereabouts are formed of a belt of coral40 ,but1 perhaps that expression was more particularly applied to the shoals further in the offing4 ,if these reefs of coral have a lagoon-like structure1 they should have been coloured blue1 and they would have formed an imperfect barrier in front of ,palawan and the northern part of ,borneo4 ,but1 as the water is not very deep1 these reefs may have grown up from inequalities on the bank3 ,i have not coloured them4--,the coast of ,china1 ,tonquin1 and ,cochin-,china1 forming the western boundary of the ,china ,sea1 appear to be without reefs3 with regard to the two last-mentioned coasts1 ,i speak after examining the charts on a large scale in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,favourite'40 ,,indian ,,ocean4--,south ,keeling has been specially described3 nine miles north of it lies ,north ,keeling1 a very small atoll1 surveyed by the 8,beagle10 the lagoon of which is dry at low water4--,christmas ,island1 lying to the east1 is a high island1 without1 as ,i have been informed by a person who passed it1 any reefs at all4--,,ceylon3 a space about eighty miles in length of the south-western and southern shores of these islands has been described by ,mr4 ,twynam 78,naut4 ,mag40 #ahcf1 pages #cfe and #eah72 parts of this space appear to be very regularly fringed by coral-reefs1 which extend from a quarter to half a mile from the shore4 ,these reefs are in places breached1 and afford safe anchorage for the small trading craft4 ,outside1 the sea gradually deepens2 there is forty fathoms about six miles off shore3 this part ,i have coloured red4 ,in the published charts of ,ceylon there appear to be fringing-reefs in several parts of the south-eastern shores1 which ,i have also coloured red4--,at ,venloos ,bay the shore is likewise fringed4 ,north of ,trincomalee there are also reefs of the same kind4 ,the sea off the northern part of ,ceylon is exceedingly shallow2 and therefore ,i have not coloured the reefs which fringe portions of its shores1 and the adjoining islets1 as well as the ,indian promontory of ,madura4 ,,chagos1 ,,maldiva1 and ,,laccadive ,,archipelagoes4--,these three great groups which have already been often noticed1 are now well-known from the admirable surveys of ,captain ,moresby and ,lieutenant ,powell4 ,the published charts1 which are worthy of the most attentive examination1 at once show that the ,chagos and ,maldiva groups are entirely formed of great atolls1 or lagoon-formed reefs1 surmounted by islets4 ,in the ,laccadive group1 this structure is less evident2 the islets are low1 not exceeding the usual height of coral-formations 7see ,lieutenant ,wood's account1 8,geographical ,journal01 volume vi41 page #bi71 and most of the reefs are circular1 as may be seen in the published charts2 and within several of them1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 there is deepish water2 these1 therefore1 have been coloured blue4 ,directly north1 and almost forming part of this group1 there is a long1 narrow1 slightly curved bank1 rising out of the depths of the ocean1 composed of sand1 shells1 and decayed coral1 with from twenty-three to thirty fathoms on it4 ,i have no doubt that it has had the same origin with the other ,laccadive banks2 but as it does not deepen towards the centre ,i have not coloured it4 ,i might have referred to other authorities regarding these three archipelagoes2 but after the publication of the charts by ,captain ,moresby1 to whose personal kindness in giving me much information ,i am exceedingly indebted1 it would have been superfluous4 ,sahia de ,malhabank consists of a series of narrow banks1 with from eight to sixteen fathoms on them2 they are arranged in a semicircular manner1 round a space about forty fathoms deep1 which slopes on the ,s4,e4 quarter to unfathomable depths2 they are steep-to on both sides1 but more especially on the ocean-side4 ,hence this bank closely resembles in structure1 and ,i may add from ,captain ,moresby's information in composition1 the ,pitt's ,bank in the ,chagos group2 and the ,pitt's ,bank1 must1 after what has been shown of the ,great ,chagos ,bank1 be considered as a sunken1 half-destroyed atoll2 hence coloured blue4--,cargados ,carajos ,bank4 ,its southern portion consists of a large1 curved1 coral-shoal1 with some low islets on its eastern edge1 and likewise some on the western side1 between which there is a depth of about twelve fathoms4 ,northward1 a great bank extends4 ,i cannot 7probably owing to the want of perfect charts7 refer this reef and bank to any class2--therefore not coloured4--,ile de ,sable is a little island1 lying west of ,c4 ,carajos1 only some toises in height 78,voyage of the #8,favourite'10 volume i41 page #acj72 it is surrounded by reefs2 but its structure is unintelligible to me4 ,there are some small banks north of it1 of which ,i can find no clear account4--,mauritius4 ,the reefs round this island have been described in the chapter on fringing-reefs2 coloured red4 --,rodriguez4 ,the coral-reefs here are exceedingly extensive2 in one part they project even five miles from the shore4 ,as far as ,i can make out1 there is no deep-water moat within them2 and the sea outside does not deepen very suddenly4 ,the outline1 however1 of the land appears to be 78,life of ,sir ,j4 ,makintosh10 volume ii41 page #afe7 hilly and rugged4 ,i am unable to decide whether these reefs belong to the barrier class2 as seems probable from their great extension1 or to the fringing class2 uncoloured4 --,bourbon4 ,the greater part of the shores of this island are without reefs2 but ,captain ,carmichael 7,hooker's 8,bot4 ,misc407 states that a portion1 fifteen miles in length1 on the ,s4,e4 side1 is imperfectly fringed with coral reefs3 ,i have not thought this sufficient to colour the island4 ,,seychelles4--,the rocky islands of primary formation1 composing this group1 rise from a very extensive and tolerably level bank1 having a depth between twenty and forty fathoms4 ,in ,captain ,owen's chart1 and in that in the 8,atlas of the ,voyage of the #8,favourite'10 it appears that the east side of ,mah and the adjoining islands of ,st4 ,anne and ,cerf1 are regularly fringed by coral-reefs4 ,a portion of the ,s4,e4 part of ,curieuse ,island1 the ,n41 and part of the ,s4,w4 shore of ,praslin ,island1 and the whole west side of ,digue ,island1 appear fringed4 ,from a ,,ms4 account of these islands by ,captain ,f4 ,moresby1 in the ,admiralty1 it appears that ,silhouette is also fringed2 he states that all these islands are formed of granite and quartz1 that they rise abruptly from the sea1 and that 8coral-reefs have grown round them1 and project for some distance40 ,dr4 ,allan1 of ,forres1 who visited these islands1 informs me that there is no deep water between the reefs and the shore4 ,the above specified points have been coloured red4 ,amirantes ,islands3 ,the small islands of this neighbouring group1 according to the ,,ms4 account of them by ,captain ,f4 ,moresby1 are situated on an extensive bank2 they consist of the debris of corals and shells2 are only about twenty feet in height1 and are environed by reefs1 some attached to the shore1 and some rather distant from it4--,i have taken great pains to procure plans and information regarding the several islands lying between ,s4,e4 and ,s4,w4 of the ,amirantes1 and the ,seychelles2 relying chiefly on ,captain ,f4 ,moresby and ,dr4 ,allan1 it appears that the greater number1 namely--,platte1 ,alphonse1 ,coetivi1 ,galega1 ,providence1 ,st4 ,pierre1 ,astova1 ,assomption1 and ,glorioso1 are low1 formed of sand or coral-rock1 and irregularly shaped2 they are situated on very extensive banks1 and are connected with great coral-reefs4 ,galega is said by ,dr4 ,allan1 to be rather higher than the other islands2 and ,st4 ,pierre is described by ,captain ,f4 ,moresby1 as being cavernous throughout1 and as not consisting of either limestone or granite4 ,these islands1 as well as the ,amirantes1 certainly are not atoll-formed1 and they differ as a group from every other group with which ,i am acquainted2 ,i have not coloured them2 but probably the reefs belong to the fringing class4 ,their formation is attributed1 both by ,dr4 ,allan and ,captain ,f4 ,moresby1 to the action of the currents1 here exceedingly violent1 on banks1 which no doubt have had an independent geological origin4 ,they resemble in many respects some islands and banks in the ,west ,indies1 which owe their origin to a similar agency1 in conjunction with an elevation of the entire area4 ,in close vicinity to the several islands1 there are three others of an apparently different nature3 first1 ,juan de ,nova1 which appears from some plans and accounts to be an atoll2 but from others does not appear to be so2 not coloured4 ,secondly ,cosmoledo2 8this group consists of a ring of coral1 ten leagues in circumference1 and a quarter of a mile broad in some places1 enclosing a magnificent lagoon1 into which there did not appear a single opening0 7,horsburgh1 volume i41 page #aea72 coloured blue4 ,thirdly1 ,aldabra2 it consists of three islets1 about twenty-five feet in height1 with red cliffs 7,horsburgh1 volume i41 page #agf7 surrounding a very shallow basin or lagoon4 ,the sea is profoundly deep close to the shore4 ,viewing this island in a chart1 it would be thought an atoll2 but the foregoing description shows that there is something different in its nature2 ,dr4 ,allan also states that it is cavernous1 and that the coral-rock has a vitrified appearance4 ,is it an upheaved atoll1 or the crater of a volcano8--uncoloured4 ,,comoro ,,group4--,mayotta1 according to ,horsburgh 7volume i41 page #baf1 #dth edition71 is completely surrounded by a reef1 which runs at the distance of three1 four1 and in some places even five miles from the land2 in an old chart1 published by ,dalrymple1 a depth in many places of thirty-six and thirty-eight fathoms is laid down within the reef4 ,in the same chart1 the space of open water within the reef in some parts is even more than three miles wide3 the land is bold and peaked2 this island1 therefore1 is encircled by a well-characterised barrier-reef1 and is coloured pale blue4--,johanna2 ,horsburgh says 7volume ,i4 page #bag7 this island from the ,n4,w4 to the ,s4,w4 point1 is bounded by a reef1 at the distance of two miles from the shore2 in some parts1 however1 the reef must be attached1 since ,lieutenant ,boteler 78,narr40 volume i41 page #afa7 describes a passage through it1 within which there is room only for a few boats4 ,its height1 as ,i am informed by ,dr4 ,allan1 is about #c1ejj feet2 it is very precipitous1 and is composed of granite1 greenstone1 and quartz2 coloured blue4--,mohilla2 on the ,s4 side of this island there is anchorage1 in from thirty to forty-five fathoms1 between a reef and the shore 7,horsburgh1 volume i41 page #bad72 in ,captain ,owen's chart of ,madagascar1 this island is represented as encircled2 coloured blue4--,great ,comoro ,island is1 as ,i am informed by ,dr4 ,allan1 about #h1jjj feet high1 and apparently volcanic2 it is not regularly encircled2 but reefs of various shapes and dimensions1 jut out from every headland on the ,w41 ,s41 and ,s4,e4 coasts1 inside of which reefs there are channels1 often parallel with the shore1 with deep water4 ,on the north-western coasts the reefs appear attached to the shores4 ,the land near the coast is in some places bold1 but generally speaking it is flat2 ,horsburgh says 7volume i41 page #bad7 the water is profoundly deep close to the shore1 from which expression ,i presume some parts are without reefs4 ,from this description ,i apprehend the reef belongs to the barrier class2 but ,i have not coloured it1 as most of the charts which ,i have seen1 represent the reefs round it as very much less extensive than round the other islands in the group4 ,,madagascar4--,my information is chiefly derived from the published charts by ,captain ,owen1 and the accounts given by him and by ,lieutenant ,boteler4 ,commencing at the ,s4,w4 extremity of the island2 towards the northern part of the ,star ,bank 7in latitude #be ,s47 the coast for ten miles is fringed by a reef2 coloured red4 ,the shore immediately ,s4 of ,st4 ,augustine's ,bay appears fringed2 but ,tullear ,harbour1 directly ,n4 of it1 is formed by a narrow reef ten miles long1 extending parallel to the shore1 with from four to ten fathoms within it4 ,if this reef had been more extensive1 it must have been classed as a barrier-reef2 but as the line of coast falls inwards here1 a submarine bank perhaps extends parallel to the shore1 which has offered a foundation for the growth of the coral2 ,i have left this part uncoloured4 ,from lat4 #bb #af to #ba #cg1 the shore is fringed by coral-reefs 7see ,lieutenant ,boteler's 8,narrative10 volume ii41 page #ajf71 less than a mile in width1 and with shallow water within4 ,there are outlying coral-shoals in several parts of the offing1 with about ten fathoms between them and the shore1 and the depth of the sea one mile and a half seaward1 is about thirty fathoms4 ,the part above specified is engraved on a large scale2 and as in the charts on rather a smaller scale the same fringe of reef extends as far as latitude #cc #ae2 ,i have coloured the whole of this part of the coast red4 ,the islands of ,juan de ,nova 7in latitude #ag ,s47 appear in the charts on a large scale to be fringed1 but ,i have not been able to ascertain whether the reefs are of coral2 uncoloured4 ,the main part of the west coast appears to be low1 with outlying sandbanks1 which1 ,lieutenant ,boteler 7volume ii41 page #ajf7 says1 8are faced on the edge of deep water by a line of sharp-pointed coral-rocks40 ,nevertheless ,i have not coloured this part1 as ,i cannot make out by the charts that the coast itself is fringed4 ,the headlands of ,narrenda and ,passandava ,bays 7#ad #dj7 and the islands in front of ,radama harbour are represented in the plans as regularly fringed1 and have accordingly been coloured red4 ,with respect to the ,east coast of ,madagascar1 ,dr4 ,allan informs me in a letter1 that the whole line of coast1 from ,tamatave1 in #ah #ab1 to ,c4 ,amber1 at the extreme northern point of the island1 is bordered by coral-reefs4 ,the land is low1 uneven1 and gradually rising from the coast4 ,from ,captain ,owen's charts1 also1 the existence of these reefs1 which evidently belong to the fringing class1 on some parts1 namely ,n4 of ,british ,sound1 and near ,ngoncy1 of the above line of coast might have been inferred4 ,lieutenant ,boteler 7volume i41 page #aee7 speaks of 8the reef surrounding the island of ,st4 ,mary's at a small distance from the shore40 ,in a previous chapter ,i have described1 from the information of ,dr4 ,allan1 the manner in which the reefs extend in ,n4,e4 lines from the headlands on this coast1 thus sometimes forming rather deep channels within them1 this seems caused by the action of the currents1 and the reefs spring up from the submarine prolongations of the sandy headlands4 ,the above specified portion of the coast is coloured red4 ,the remaining ,s4,e4 portions do not appear in any published chart to possess reefs of any kind2 and the ,rev4 ,w4 ,ellis1 whose means of information regarding this side of ,madagascar have been extensive1 informs me he believes there are none4 ,,east ,,coast ,,of ,,africa4--,proceeding from the northern part1 the coast appears1 for a considerable space1 without reefs4 ,my information1 ,i may here observe1 is derived from the survey by ,captain ,owen1 together with his narrative2 and that by ,lieutenant ,boteler4 ,at ,mukdeesha 7#aj #a ,n47 there is a coral-reef extending four or five miles along the shore 7,owen's 8,narr40 volume i1 page #ceg7 which in the chart lies at the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore1 and has within it from six to ten feet water3 this then is a fringing-reef1 and is coloured red4 ,from ,juba1 a little ,s4 of the equator1 to ,lamoo 7in #b #bj ,s47 8the coast and islands are formed of madrepore0 7,owen's 8,narrative10 volume i41 page #cfc74 ,the chart of this part 7entitled ,dundas ,islands71 presents an extraordinary appearance2 the coast of the mainland is quite straight and it is fronted at the average distance of two miles1 by exceedingly narrow1 straight islets1 fringed with reefs4 ,within the chain of islets1 there are extensive tidal flats and muddy bays1 into which many rivers enter2 the depths of these spaces varies from one to four fathoms--the latter depth not being common1 and about twelve feet the average4 ,outside the chain of islets1 the sea1 at the distance of a mile1 varies in depth from eight to fifteen fathoms4 ,lieutenant ,boteler 78,narr40 volume i41 page #cfi7 describes the muddy bay of ,patta1 which seems to resemble other parts of this coast1 as fronted by small1 narrow1 level islets formed of decomposing coral1 the margin of which is seldom of greater height than twelve feet1 overhanging the rocky surface from which the islets rise4 ,knowing that the islets are formed of coral1 it is1 ,i think1 scarcely possible to view the coast1 and not at once conclude that we here see a fringing-reef1 which has been upraised a few feet3 the unusual depth of from two to four fathoms within some of these islets1 is probably due to muddy rivers having prevented the growth of coral near the shore4 ,there is1 however1 one difficulty on this view1 namely1 that before the elevation took place1 which converted the reef into a chain of islets1 the water must apparently have been still deeper2 on the other hand it may be supposed that the formation of a nearly perfect barrier in front1 of so large an extent of coast1 would cause the currents 7especially in front of the rivers71 to deepen their muddy beds4 ,when describing in the chapter on fringing-reefs1 those of ,mauritius1 ,i have given my reasons for believing that the shoal spaces within reefs of this kind1 must1 in many instances1 have been deepened4 ,however this may be1 as several parts of this line of coast are undoubtedly fringed by living reefs1 ,i have coloured it red4-- ,maleenda 7#c #bj ,s474 ,in the plan of the harbour1 the south headland appears fringed2 and in ,owen's chart on a larger scale1 the reefs are seen to extend nearly thirty miles southward2 coloured red4--,mombas 7#d #e ,s474 ,the island which forms the harbour1 8is surrounded by cliffs of madrepore1 capable of being rendered almost impregnable0 7,owen's 8,narr40 volume i41 page #dab74 ,the shore of the mainland ,n4 and ,s4 of the harbour1 is most regularly fringed by a coral-reef at a distance from half a mile to one mile and a quarter from the land2 within the reef the depth is from nine to fifteen feet2 outside the reef the depth at rather less than half a mile is thirty fathoms4 ,from the charts it appears that a space about thirty-six miles in length1 is here fringed2 coloured red4--,pemba 7#e ,s47 is an island of coral-formation1 level1 and about two hundred feet in height 7,owen's 8,narr40 volume i41 page #dbe72 it is thirty-five miles long1 and is separated from the mainland by a deep sea4 ,the outer coast is represented in the chart as regularly fringed2 coloured red4 ,the mainland in front of ,pemba is likewise fringed2 but there also appear to be some outlying reefs with deep water between them and the shore4 ,i do not understand their structure1 either from the charts or the description1 therefore have not coloured them4--,zanzibar resembles ,pemba in most respects2 its southern half on the western side and the neighbouring islets are fringed2 coloured red4 ,on the mainland1 a little ,s4 of ,zanzibar1 there are some banks parallel to the coast1 which ,i should have thought had been formed of coral1 had it not been said 7,boteler's 8,narr40 volume ii41 page #ci7 that they were composed of sand2 not coloured4--,latham's ,bank is a small island1 fringed by coral-reefs2 but being only ten feet high1 it has not been coloured4--,monfeea is an island of the same character as ,pemba2 its outer shore is fringed1 and its southern extremity is connected with ,keelwa ,point on the mainland by a chain of islands fringed by reefs2 coloured red4 ,the four last-mentioned islands resemble in many respects some of the islands in the ,red ,sea1 which will presently be described4-- ,keelwa4 ,in a plan of the shore1 a space of twenty miles ,n4 and ,s4 of this place is fringed by reefs1 apparently of coral3 these reefs are prolonged still further southward in ,owen's general chart4 ,the coast in the plans of the rivers ,lindy and ,monghow 7#i #ei and #aj #g ,s47 has the same structure2 coloured red4--,querimba ,islands 7from #aj #dj to #ac ,s474 ,a chart on a large scale is given of these islands2 they are low1 and of coral-formation 7,boteler's 8,narr40 volume ii41 page #ed72 and generally have extensive reefs projecting from them which are dry at low water1 and which on the outside rise abruptly from a deep sea3 on their insides they are separated from the continent by a channel1 or rather a succession of bays1 with an average depth of ten fathoms4 ,the small headlands on the continent also have coral-banks attached to them2 and the ,querimba islands and banks are placed on the lines of prolongation of these headlands1 and are separated from them by very shallow channels4 ,it is evident that whatever cause1 whether the drifting of sediment or subterranean movements1 produced the headlands1 likewise produced1 as might have been expected1 submarine prolongations to them2 and these towards their outer extremities1 have since afforded a favourable basis for the growth of coral-reefs1 and subsequently for the formation of islets4 ,as these reefs clearly belong to the fringing class1 the ,querimba islands have been coloured red4--,monabila 7#ac #cb ,s474 ,in the plan of this harbour1 the headlands outside are fringed by reefs apparently of coral2 coloured red4--,mozambique 7#aej ,s47 ,the outer part of the island on which the city is built1 and the neighbouring islands1 are fringed by coral-reefs2 coloured red4 ,from the description given in ,owen's 8,narr40 7volume i41 page #afb71 the shore from ,mozambique to ,delagoa ,bay appears to be low and sandy2 many of the shoals and islets off this line of coast are of coral-formation2 but from their small size and lowness1 it is not possible1 from the charts1 to know whether they are truly fringed4 ,hence this portion of coast is left uncoloured1 as are likewise those parts more northward1 of which no mention has been made in the foregoing pages from the want of information4 ,,persian ,,gulf4--,from the charts lately published on a large scale by the ,east ,india ,company1 it appears that several parts1 especially the southern shores of this gulf1 are fringed by coral-reefs2 but as the water is very shallow1 and as there are numerous sandbanks1 which are difficult to distinguish on the chart from reefs1 ,i have not coloured the upper part red4 ,towards the mouth1 however1 where the water is rather deeper1 the islands of ,ormuz and ,larrack1 appear so regularly fringed1 that ,i have coloured them red4 ,there are certainly no atolls in the ,persian ,gulf4 ,the shores of ,immaum1 and of the promontory forming the southern headland of the ,persian ,gulf1 seem to be without reefs4 ,the whole ,s4,w4 part 7except one or two small patches7 of ,arabia ,felix1 and the shores of ,socotra appear from the charts and memoir of ,captain ,haines 78,geographical ,journal10 #ahci1 page #abe7 to be without any reefs4 ,i believe there are no extensive coral-reefs on any part of the coasts of ,india1 except on the low promontory of ,madura 7as already mentioned7 in front of ,ceylon4 ,,red ,,sea4--,my information is chiefly derived from the admirable charts published by the ,east ,india ,company in #ahcf1 from personal communication with ,captain ,moresby1 one of the surveyors1 and from the excellent memoir1 8ber die ,natur der ,corallen-,bnken des ,rothen ,meeres10 by ,ehrenberg4 ,the plains immediately bordering the ,red ,sea seem chiefly to consist of a sedimentary formation of the newer tertiary period4 ,the shore is1 with the exception of a few parts1 fringed by coral-reefs4 ,the water is generally profoundly deep close to the shore2 but this fact1 which has attracted the attention of most voyagers1 seems to have no necessary connection with the presence of reefs2 for ,captain ,moresby particularly observed to me1 that1 in latitude #bd #aj on the eastern side1 there is a piece of coast1 with very deep water close to it1 without any reefs1 but not differing in other respects from the usual nature of the coast-line4 ,the most remarkable feature in the ,red ,sea is the chain of submerged banks1 reefs1 and islands1 lying some way from the shore1 chiefly on the eastern side2 the space within being deep enough to admit a safe navigation in small vessels4 ,the banks are generally of an oval form1 and some miles in width2 but some of them are very long in proportion to their width4 ,captain ,moresby informs me that any one1 who had not made actual plans of them1 would be apt to think that they were much more elongated than they really are4 ,many of them rise to the surface1 but the greater number lie from five to thirty fathoms beneath it1 with irregular soundings on them4 ,they consist of sand and living coral2 coral on most of them1 according to ,captain ,moresby1 covering the greater part of their surface4 ,they extend parallel to the shore1 and they are not unfrequently connected in their middle parts by short transverse banks with the mainland4 ,the sea is generally profoundly deep quite close to them1 as it is near most parts of the coast of the mainland2 but this is not universally the case1 for between latitude #ae and #ag the water deepens quite gradually from the banks1 both on the eastern and western shores1 towards the middle of the sea4 ,islands in many parts arise from these banks2 they are low1 flat-topped1 and consist of the same horizontally stratified formation with that forming the plain-like margin of the mainland4 ,some of the smaller and lower islands consist of mere sand4 ,captain ,moresby informs me1 that small masses of rock1 the remnants of islands1 are left on many banks where there is now no dry land4 ,ehrenberg also asserts that most of the islets1 even the lowest1 have a flat abraded basis1 composed of the same tertiary formation3 he believes that as soon as the surf wears down the protuberant parts of a bank1 just beneath the level of the sea1 the surface becomes protected from further abrasion by the growth of coral1 and he thus accounts for the existence of so many banks standing on a level with the surface of this sea4 ,it appears that most of the islands are certainly decreasing in size4 ,the form of the banks and islands is most singular in the part just referred to1 namely1 from latitude #ae to #ag1 where the sea deepens quite gradually3 the ,dhalac group1 on the western coast1 is surrounded by an intricate archipelago of islets and shoals2 the main island is very irregularly shaped1 and it includes a bay seven miles long1 by four across1 in which no bottom was found with #beb feet3 there is only one entrance into this bay1 half a mile wide1 and with an island in front of it4 ,the submerged banks on the eastern coast1 within the same latitudes1 round ,farsan ,island1 are1 likewise1 penetrated by many narrow creeks of deep water2 one is twelve miles long1 in the form of a hatchet1 in which1 close to its broad upper end1 soundings were not struck with #cfj feet1 and its entrance is only half a mile wide3 in another creek of the same nature1 but even with a more irregular outline1 there was no bottom with #dhj feet4 ,the island of ,farsan1 itself1 has as singular a form as any of its surrounding banks4 ,the bottom of the sea round the ,dhalac and ,farsan ,islands consists chiefly of sand and agglutinated fragments1 but1 in the deep and narrow creeks1 it consists of mud2 the islands themselves consist of thin1 horizontally stratified1 modern tertiary beds1 containing but little broken coral2#b their shores are fringed by living coral-reefs4 #b ,rppell1 8,reise in ,abyssinie10 ,band4 i41 ,s4 #bdg4 ,from the account given by ,rppell#c of the manner in which ,dhalac has been rent by fissures1 the opposite sides of which have been unequally elevated 7in one instance to the amount of fifty feet71 it seems probable that its irregular form1 as well as probably that of ,farsan1 may have been partly caused by unequal elevations2 but1 considering the general form of the banks1 and of the deep-water creeks1 together with the composition of the land1 ,i think their configuration is more probably due in great part to strong currents having drifted sediment over an uneven bottom3 it is almost certain that their form cannot be attributed to the growth of coral4 ,whatever may have been the precise origin of the ,dhalac and ,farsan ,archipelagoes1 the greater number of the banks on the eastern side of the ,red ,sea seem to have originated through nearly similar means4 ,i judge of this from their similarity in configuration 7in proof of which ,i may instance a bank on the east coast in latitude #bb2 and although it is true that the northern banks generally have a less complicated outline71 and from their similarity in composition1 as may be observed in their upraised portions4 ,the depth within the banks northward of latitude #ag1 is usually greater1 and their outer sides shelve more abruptly 7circumstances which seem to go together7 than in the ,dhalac and ,farsan ,archipelagoes2 but this might easily have been caused by a difference in the action of the currents during their formation3 moreover1 the greater quantity of living coral1 which1 according to ,captain ,moresby1 exists on the northern banks1 would tend to give them steeper margins4 #c ,rppell1 8,reise in ,abyssinie10 ,band4 i41 ,s4 #bde4 ,from this account1 brief and imperfect as it is1 we can see that the great chain of banks on the eastern coast1 and on the western side in the southern portion1 differ greatly from true barrier-reefs wholly formed by the growth of coral4 ,it is indeed the direct conclusion of ,ehrenberg 78,uber die10 etc41 pages #de and #ea71 that they are connected in their origin quite secondarily with the growth of coral2 and he remarks that the islands off the coast of ,norway1 if worn down level with the sea1 and merely coated with living coral1 would present a nearly similar appearance4 ,i cannot1 however1 avoid suspecting1 from information given me by ,dr4 ,malcolmson and ,captain ,moresby1 that ,ehrenberg has rather under-rated the influence of corals1 in some places at least1 on the formation of the tertiary deposits of the ,red ,sea4 ,the ,west ,coast of the ,red ,sea between lat4 #ai and #bb4--,there are1 in this space1 reefs1 which1 if ,i had known nothing of those in other parts of the ,red ,sea1 ,i should unhesitatingly have considered as barrier-reefs2 and1 after deliberation1 ,i have come to the same conclusion4 ,one of these reefs1 in #bj #ae1 is twenty miles long1 less than a mile in width 7but expanding at the northern end into a disc71 slightly sinuous1 and extending parallel to the mainland at the distance of five miles from it1 with very deep water within2 in one spot soundings were not obtained with #bje fathoms4 ,some leagues further south1 there is another linear reef1 very narrow1 ten miles long1 with other small portions of reef1 north and south1 almost connected with it2 and within this line of reefs 7as well as outside7 the water is profoundly deep4 ,there are also some small linear and sickle-formed reefs1 lying a little way out at sea4 ,all these reefs are covered1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 by living corals4 ,here1 then1 we have all the characters of reefs of the barrier class2 and in some outlying reefs we have an approach to the structure of atolls4 ,the source of my doubts about the classification of these reefs1 arises from having observed in the ,dhalac and ,farsan groups the narrowness and straightness of several spits of sand and rock3 one of these spits in the ,dhalac group is nearly fifteen miles long1 only two broad1 and it is bordered on each side with deep water2 so that1 if worn down by the surf1 and coated with living corals1 it would form a reef nearly similar to those within the space under consideration4 ,there is1 also1 in this space 7latitude #ba7 a peninsula1 bordered by cliffs1 with its extremity worn down to the level of the sea1 and its basis fringed with reefs3 in the line of prolongation of this peninsula1 there lies the island of ,macowa 7formed1 according to ,captain ,moresby1 of the usual tertiary deposit71 and some smaller islands1 large parts of which likewise appear to have been worn down1 and are now coated with living corals4 ,if the removal of the strata in these several cases had been more complete1 the reefs thus formed would have nearly resembled those barrier-like ones now under discussion4 ,notwithstanding these facts1 ,i cannot persuade myself that the many very small1 isolated1 and sickle-formed reefs and others1 long1 nearly straight1 and very narrow1 with the water unfathomably deep close round them1 could possibly have been formed by corals merely coating banks of sediment1 or the abraded surfaces of irregularly shaped islands4 ,i feel compelled to believe that the foundations of these reefs have subsided1 and that the corals1 during their upward growth1 have given to these reefs their present forms3 ,i may remark that the subsidence of narrow and irregularly-shaped peninsulas and islands1 such as those existing on the coasts of the ,red ,sea1 would afford the requisite foundations for the reefs in question4 ,the ,west ,coast from lat4 #bb to #bd4--,this part of the coast 7north of the space coloured blue on the map7 is fronted by an irregularly shelving bank1 from about ten to thirty fathoms deep2 numerous little reefs1 some of which have the most singular shapes1 rise from this bank4 ,it may be observed1 respecting one of them1 in latitude #bc #aj1 that if the promontory in latitude #bd were worn down to the level of the sea1 and coated with corals1 a very similar and grotesquely formed reef would be produced4 ,many of the reefs on this part of the coast may thus have originated2 but there are some sickle1 and almost atoll-formed reefs lying in deep water off the promontory in latitude #bd1 which lead me to suppose that all these reefs are more probably allied to the barrier or atoll classes4 ,i have not1 however1 ventured to colour this portion of coast4--,on the west coast from lat4 #ai to #ag 7south of space coloured blue on the map71 there are many low islets of very small dimensions1 not much elongated1 and rising out of great depths at a distance from the coast2 these cannot be classed either with atolls1 or barrier- or fringing-reefs4 ,i may here remark that the outlying reefs on the west coast1 between latitude #ai and #bd1 are the only ones in the ,red ,sea1 which approach in structure to the true atolls of the ,indian and ,pacific ,oceans1 but they present only imperfect miniature likenesses of them4 ,eastern ,coast4--,i have felt the greatest doubt about colouring any portion of this coast1 north of the fringing-reefs round the ,farsan ,islands in #af #aj4 ,there are many small outlying coral-reefs along the whole line of coast2 but as the greater number rise from banks not very deeply submerged 7the formation of which has been shown to be only secondarily connected with the growth of coral71 their origin may be due simply to the growth of knolls of corals1 from an irregular foundation situated within a limited depth4 ,but between latitude #ah and #bj1 there are so many linear1 elliptic1 and extremely small reefs1 rising abruptly out of profound depths1 that the same reasons1 which led me to colour blue a portion of the west coast1 have induced me to do the same in this part4 ,there exist some small outlying reefs rising from deep water1 north of latitude #bj 7the northern limit coloured blue71 on the east coast2 but as they are not very numerous and scarcely any of them linear1 ,i have thought it right to leave them uncoloured4 ,in the southern parts of the ,red ,sea1 considerable spaces of the mainland1 and of some of the ,dhalac islands1 are skirted by reefs1 which1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby1 are of living coral1 and have all the characters of the fringing class4 ,as in these latitudes1 there are no outlying linear or sickle-formed reefs1 rising out of unfathomable depths1 ,i have coloured these parts of the coast red4 ,on similar grounds1 ,i have coloured red the northern parts of the western coast 7north of latitude #bd #cj71 and likewise the shores of the chief part of the ,gulf of ,suez4 ,in the ,gulf of ,acaba1 as ,i am informed by ,captain ,moresby there are no coral-reefs1 and the water is profoundly deep4 ,,west ,,indies4--,my information regarding the reefs of this area1 is derived from various sources1 and from an examination of numerous charts2 especially of those lately executed during the survey under ,captain ,owen1 ,r4,n4 ,i lay under particular obligation to ,captain ,bird ,allen1 ,r4,n41 one of the members of the late survey1 for many personal communications on this subject4 ,as in the case of the ,red ,sea1 it is necessary to make some preliminary remarks on the submerged banks of the ,west ,indies1 which are in some degree connected with coral-reefs1 and cause considerable doubts in their classification4 ,that large accumulations of sediment are in progress on the ,west ,indian shores1 will be evident to any one who examines the charts of that sea1 especially of the portion north of a line joining ,yucutan and ,florida4 ,the area of deposition seems less intimately connected with the debouchement of the great rivers1 than with the course of the sea-currents2 as is evident from the vast extension of the banks from the promontories of ,yucutan and ,mosquito4 ,besides the coast-banks1 there are many of various dimensions which stand quite isolated2 these closely resemble each other1 they lie from two or three to twenty or thirty fathoms under water1 and are composed of sand1 sometimes firmly agglutinated1 with little or no coral2 their surfaces are smooth and nearly level1 shelving only to the amount of a few fathoms1 very gradually all round towards their edges1 where they plunge abruptly into the unfathomable sea4 ,this steep inclination of their sides1 which is likewise characteristic of the coast-banks1 is very remarkable3 ,i may give as an instance1 the ,misteriosa ,bank1 on the edges of which the soundings change in #bej fathoms horizontal distance1 from #aa to #baj fathoms2 off the northern point of the bank of ,old ,providence1 in #bjj fathoms horizontal distance1 the change is from #ai to #aeb fathoms2 off the ,great ,bahama ,bank1 in #afj fathoms horizontal distance1 the inclination is in many places from #aj fathoms to no bottom with #aij fathoms4 ,on coasts in all parts of the world1 where sediment is accumulating1 something of this kind may be observed2 the banks shelve very gently far out to sea1 and then terminate abruptly4 ,the form and composition of the banks standing in the middle parts of the ,w4 ,indian ,sea1 clearly show that their origin must be chiefly attributed to the accumulation of sediment2 and the only obvious explanation of their isolated position is the presence of a nucleus1 round which the currents have collected fine drift matter4 ,any one who will compare the character of the bank surrounding the hilly island of ,old ,providence1 with those banks in its neighbourhood which stand isolated1 will scarcely doubt that they surround submerged mountains4 ,we are led to the same conclusion by examining the bank called ,thunder ,knoll1 which is separated from the ,great ,mosquito ,bank by a channel only seven miles wide1 and #ade fathoms deep4 ,there cannot be any doubt that the ,mosquito ,bank has been formed by the accumulation of sediment round the promontory of the same name2 and ,thunder ,knoll resembles the ,mosquito ,bank1 in the state of its surface submerged twenty fathoms1 in the inclinations of its sides1 in composition1 and in every other respect4 ,i may observe1 although the remark is here irrelevant1 that geologists should be cautious in concluding that all the outlyers of any formation have once been connected together1 for we here see that deposits1 doubtless of exactly the same nature1 may be deposited with large valley-like spaces between them4 ,linear strips of coral-reefs and small knolls project from many of the isolated1 as well as coast-banks2 sometimes they occur quite irregularly placed1 as on the ,mosquito ,bank1 but more generally they form crescents on the windward side1 situated some little distance within the outer edge of the banks3--thus on the ,serranilla ,bank they form an interrupted chain which ranges between two and three miles within the windward margin3 generally they occur1 as on ,roncador1 ,courtown1 and ,anegada ,banks1 nearer the line of deep water4 ,their occurrence on the windward side is conformable to the general rule1 of the efficient kinds of corals flourishing best where most exposed2 but their position some way within the line of deep water ,i cannot explain1 without it be1 that a depth somewhat less than that close to the outer margin of the banks1 is most favourable to their growth4 ,where the corals have formed a nearly continuous rim1 close to the windward edge of a bank some fathoms submerged1 the reef closely resembles an atoll2 but if the bank surrounds an island 7as in the case of ,old ,providence71 the reef resembles an encircling barrier-reef4 ,i should undoubtedly have classed some of these fringed banks as imperfect atolls1 or barrier-reefs1 if the sedimentary nature of their foundations had not been evident from the presence of other neighbouring banks1 of similar forms and of similar composition1 but without the crescent-like marginal reef3 in the third chapter1 ,i observed that probably some atoll-like reefs did exist1 which had originated in the manner here supposed4 ,proofs of elevation within recent tertiary periods abound1 as referred to in the sixth chapter1 over nearly the whole area of the ,west ,indies4 ,hence it is easy to understand the origin of the low land on the coasts1 where sediment is now accumulating2 for instance on the northern part of ,yucutan1 and on the ,n4,e4 part of ,mosquito1 where the land is low1 and where extensive banks appear to be in progressive formation4 ,hence1 also1 the origin of the ,great ,bahama ,banks1 which are bordered on their western and southern edges by very narrow1 long1 singularly shaped islands1 formed of sand1 shells1 and coral-rock1 and some of them about a hundred feet in height1 is easily explained by the elevation of banks fringed on their windward 7western and southern7 sides by coral-reefs4 ,on this view1 however1 we must suppose either that the chief part of the surfaces of the great ,bahama sandbanks were all originally deeply submerged1 and were brought up to their present level by the same elevatory action1 which formed the linear islands2 or that during the elevation of the banks1 the superficial currents and swell of the waves continued wearing them down and keeping them at a nearly uniform level3 the level is not quite uniform2 for1 in proceeding from the ,n4,w4 end of the ,bahama group towards the ,s4,e4 end1 the depth of the banks increases1 and the area of land decreases1 in a very gradual and remarkable manner4 ,the latter view1 namely1 that these banks have been worn down by the currents and swell during their elevation1 seems to me the most probable one4 ,it is1 also1 ,i believe1 applicable to many banks1 situated in widely distant parts of the ,west ,indian ,sea1 which are wholly submerged2 for1 on any other view1 we must suppose1 that the elevatory forces have acted with astonishing uniformity4 ,the shore of the ,gulf of ,mexico1 for the space of many hundred miles1 is formed by a chain of lagoons1 from one to twenty miles in breadth 78,columbian ,navigator10 page #agh1 etc471 containing either fresh or salt water1 and separated from the sea by linear strips of sand4 ,great spaces of the shores of ,southern ,brazil4#d and of the ,united ,states from ,long ,island 7as observed by ,professor ,rogers7 to ,florida have the same character4 ,professor ,rogers1 in his 8,report to the ,british ,association0 7volume iii41 page #ac71 speculates on the origin of these low1 sandy1 linear islets2 he states that the layers of which they are composed are too homogeneous1 and contain too large a proportion of shells1 to permit the common supposition of their formation being simply due to matter thrown up1 where it now lies1 by the surf3 he considers these islands as upheaved bars or shoals1 which were deposited in lines where opposed currents met4 ,it is evident that these islands and spits of sand parallel to the coast1 and separated from it by shallow lagoons1 have no necessary connection with coral-formations4 ,but in ,southern ,florida1 from the accounts ,i have received from persons who have resided there1 the upraised islands seem to be formed of strata1 containing a good deal of coral1 and they are extensively fringed by living reefs2 the channels within these islands are in some places between two and three miles wide1 and five or six fathoms deep1 though generally#e they are less in depth than width4 ,after having seen how frequently banks of sediment in the ,west ,indian ,sea are fringed by reefs1 we can readily conceive that bars of sediment might be greatly aided in their formation along a line of coast1 by the growth of corals2 and such bars would1 in that case1 have a deceptive resemblance with true barrier-reefs4 #d ,in the 8,london and ,edinburgh ,philosophical ,journal10 #ahda1 page #beg1 ,i have described a singular bar of sandstone lying parallel to the coast off ,pernambuco in ,brazil1 which probably is an analogous formation4 #e ,in the ordinary sea-charts1 no lagoons appear on the coast of ,florida1 north of #bf2 but ,major ,whiting 78,silliman's ,journal10 volume xxxv41 page #ed7 says that many are formed by sand thrown up along the whole line of coast from ,st4 ,augustine's to ,jupiter ,inlet4 ,having now endeavoured to remove some sources of doubt in classifying the reefs of the ,west ,indies1 ,i will give my authorities for colouring such portions of the coast as ,i have thought myself warranted in doing4 ,captain ,bird ,allen informs me1 that most of the islands on the ,bahama ,banks are fringed1 especially on their windward sides1 with living reefs2 and hence ,i have coloured those1 which are thus represented in ,captain ,owen's late chart1 red4 ,the same officer informs me1 that the islands along the southern part of ,florida are similarly fringed2 coloured red4 ,,cuba3 ,proceeding along the northern coast1 at the distance of forty miles from the extreme ,s4,e4 point1 the shores are fringed by reefs1 which extend westward for a space of #afj miles1 with only a few breaks4 ,parts of these reefs are represented in the plans of the harbours on this coast by ,captain ,owen2 and an excellent description is given of them by ,mr4 ,taylor 7,loudon's 8,mag4 of ,nat4 ,hist40 volume ix41 page #ddi72 he states that they enclosed a space called the 8baxo10 from half to three-quarters of a mile in width1 with a sandy bottom1 and a little coral4 ,in most parts people can wade1 at low water1 to the reef2 but in some parts the depth is between two and three fathoms4 ,close outside the reef1 the depth is between six and seven fathoms2 these well-characterised fringing-reefs are coloured red4 ,westward of longitude #gg #cj1 on the northern side of ,cuba1 a great bank commences1 which extends along the coast for nearly four degrees of longitude4 ,in the place of its commencement1 in its structure1 and in the 8cays10 or low islands on its edge1 there is a marked correspondence 7as observed by ,humboldt1 8,pers4 ,narr40 volume vii41 page #hh7 between it and the ,great ,bahama and ,sal ,banks1 which lie directly in front4 ,hence one is led to attribute the same origin to both these sets of banks2 namely1 the accumulation of sediment1 conjoined with an elevatory movement1 and the growth of coral on their outward edges2 those parts which appear fringed by living reefs are coloured red4 ,westward of these banks1 there is a portion of coast apparently without reefs1 except in the harbours1 the shores of which seem in the published plans to be fringed4 ,the ,colorado ,shoals 7see ,captain ,owen's charts71 and the low land at the western end of ,cuba1 correspond as closely in relative position and structure to the banks at the extreme point of ,florida1 as the banks above described on the north side of ,cuba1 do to the ,bahamas1 the depth within the islets and reefs on the outer edge of the ,colorados1 is generally between two and three fathoms1 increasing to twelve fathoms in the southern part1 where the bank becomes nearly open1 without islets or coral-reefs2 the portions which are fringed are coloured red4 ,the southern shore of ,cuba is deeply concave1 and the included space is filled up with mud and sandbanks1 low islands and coral-reefs4 ,between the mountainous ,isle of ,pines and the southern shore of ,cuba1 the general depth is only between two and three fathoms2 and in this part small islands1 formed of fragmentary rock and broken madrepores 7,humboldt1 8,pers4 ,narr40 volume vii4 pages #ea1 #hf to #ij1 #bia1 #cji1 #cbj71 rise abruptly1 and just reach the surface of the sea4 ,from some expressions used in the 8,columbian ,navigator0 7volume i41 part ii41 page #id71 it appears that considerable spaces along the outer coast of ,southern ,cuba are bounded by cliffs of coral-rock1 formed probably by the upheaval of coral-reefs and sandbanks4 ,the charts represent the southern part of the ,isle of ,pines as fringed by reefs1 which the 8,columb4 ,navig40 says extend some way from the coast1 but have only from nine to twelve feet water on them2 these are coloured red4--,i have not been able to procure any detailed description of the large groups of banks and 8cays0 further eastward on the southern side of ,cuba2 within them there is a large expanse1 with a muddy bottom1 from eight to twelve fathoms deep2 although some parts of this line of coast are represented in the general charts of the ,west ,indies1 as fringed1 ,i have not thought it prudent to colour them4 ,the remaining portion of the south coast of ,cuba appears to be without coral-reefs4 ,,yucutan4--,the ,n4,e4 part of the promontory appears in ,captain ,owen's charts to be fringed2 coloured red4 ,the eastern coast1 from #bj to #ah is fringed4 ,south of latitude #ah1 there commences the most remarkable reef in the ,west ,indies3 it is about one hundred and thirty miles in length1 ranging in a ,n4 and ,s4 line1 at an average distance of fifteen miles from the coast4 ,the islets on it are all low1 as ,i have been informed by ,captain ,b4 ,allen2 the water deepens suddenly on the outside of the reef1 but not more abruptly than off many of the sedimentary banks3 within its southern extremity 7off ,honduras7 the depth is twenty-five fathoms2 but in the more northern parts1 the depth soon increases to ten fathoms1 and within the northernmost part1 for a space of twenty miles1 the depth is only from one to two fathoms4 ,in most of these respects we have the characteristics of a barrier-reef2 nevertheless1 from observing1 first1 that the channel within the reef is a continuation of a great irregular bay1 which penetrates the mainland to the depth of fifty miles2 and secondly1 that considerable spaces of this barrier-like reef are described in the charts 7for instance1 in latitude #af #de and #af #ab7 as formed of pure sand2 and thirdly1 from knowing that sediment is accumulating in many parts of the ,west ,indies in banks parallel to the shore2 ,i have not ventured to colour this reef as a barrier1 without further evidence that it has really been formed by the growth of corals1 and that it is not merely in parts a spit of sand1 and in other parts a worn down promontory1 partially coated and fringed by reefs2 ,i lean1 however1 to the probability of its being a barrier-reef1 produced by subsidence4 ,to add to my doubts1 immediately on the outside of this barrier-like reef1 ,turneffe1 ,lighthouse1 and ,glover reefs are situated1 and these reefs have so completely the form of atolls1 that if they had occurred in the ,pacific1 ,i should not have hesitated about colouring them blue4 turneffe ,reef seems almost entirely filled up with low mud islets2 and the depth within the other two reefs is only from one to three fathoms4 ,from this circumstance and from their similarity in form1 structure1 and relative position1 both to the bank called ,northern ,triangles1 on which there is an islet between seventy and eighty feet1 and to ,cozumel ,island1 the level surface of which is likewise between seventy and eighty feet in height1 ,i consider it more probable that the three foregoing banks are the worn down bases of upheaved shoals1 fringed with corals1 than that they are true atolls1 wholly produced by the growth of coral during subsidence2 left uncoloured4 ,in front of the eastern ,mosquito coast1 there are between latitude #ab and #af some extensive banks 7already mentioned1 page #adh71 with high islands rising from their centres2 and there are other banks wholly submerged1 both of which kinds of banks are bordered1 near their windward margins1 by crescent-shaped coral-reefs4 ,but it can hardly be doubted1 as was observed in the preliminary remarks1 that these banks owe their origin1 like the great bank extending from the ,mosquito promontory1 almost entirely to the accumulation of sediment1 and not to the growth of corals2 hence ,i have not coloured them4 ,cayman ,island3 this island appears in the charts to be fringed2 and ,captain ,b4 ,allen informs me that the reefs extend about a mile from the shore1 and have only from five to twelve feet water within them2 coloured red4--,jamaica3 judging from the charts1 about fifteen miles of the ,s4,e4 extremity1 and about twice that length on the ,s4,w4 extremity1 and some portions on the ,s4 side near ,kingston and ,port ,royal1 are regularly fringed1 and therefore are coloured red4 ,from the plans of some harbours on the ,n4 side of ,jamaica1 parts of the coast appear to be fringed2 but as these are not represented in the charts of the whole island1 ,i have not coloured them4--,st4 ,domingo3 ,i have not been able to obtain sufficient information1 either from plans of the harbours1 or from general charts1 to enable me to colour any part of the coast1 except sixty miles from ,port de ,plata westward1 which seems very regularly fringed2 many other parts1 however1 of the coast are probably fringed1 especially towards the eastern end of the island4--,puerto ,rico3 considerable portions of the southern1 western1 and eastern coasts1 and some parts of the northern coast1 appear in the charts to be fringed2 coloured red4--,some miles in length of the southern side of the ,island of ,st1 ,thomas is fringed2 most of the ,virgin ,gorda ,islands1 as ,i am informed by ,mr4 ,schomburgk1 are fringed2 the shores of ,anegada1 as well as the bank on which it stands1 are likewise fringed2 these islands have been coloured red4 ,the greater part of the southern side of ,santa ,cruz appears in the ,danish survey to be fringed 7see also ,prof4 ,hovey's account of this island1 in 8,silliman's ,journal10 volume xxxv41 page #gd72 the reefs extend along the shore for a considerable space1 and project rather more than a mile2 the depth within the reef is three fathoms2 coloured red4--,the ,antilles1 as remarked by ,von ,buch 78,descrip4 ,iles ,canaries10 page #did71 may be divided into two linear groups1 the western row being volcanic1 and the eastern of modern calcareous origin2 my information is very defective on the whole group4 ,of the eastern islands1 ,barbuda and the western coasts of ,antigua and ,mariagalante appear to be fringed3 this is also the case with ,barbadoes1 as ,i have been informed by a resident2 these islands are coloured red4 ,on the shores of the ,western ,antilles1 of volcanic origin1 very few coral-reefs appear to exist4 ,the island of ,martinique1 of which there are beautifully executed ,french charts1 on a very large scale1 alone presents any appearance worthy of special notice4 ,the south-western1 southern1 and eastern coasts1 together forming about half the circumference of the island1 are skirted by very irregular banks1 projecting generally rather less than a mile from the shore1 and lying from two to five fathoms submerged4 ,in front of almost every valley1 they are breached by narrow1 crooked1 steep-sided passages4 ,the ,french engineers ascertained by boring1 that these submerged banks consisted of madreporitic rocks1 which were covered in many parts by thin layers of mud or sand4 ,from this fact1 and especially from the structure of the narrow breaches1 ,i think there can be little doubt that these banks once formed living reefs1 which fringed the shores of the island1 and like other reefs probably reached the surface4 ,from some of these submerged banks reefs of living coral rise abruptly1 either in small detached patches1 or in lines parallel to1 but some way within the outer edges of the banks on which they are based4 ,besides the above banks which skirt the shores of the island1 there is on the eastern side a range of linear banks1 similarly constituted1 twenty miles in length1 extending parallel to the coast line1 and separated from it by a space between two and four miles in width1 and from five to fifteen fathoms in depth4 ,from this range of detached banks1 some linear reefs of living coral likewise rise abruptly2 and if they had been of greater length 7for they do not front more than a sixth part of the circumference of the island71 they would necessarily from their position have been coloured as barrier-reefs2 as the case stands they are left uncoloured4 ,i suspect that after a small amount of subsidence1 the corals were killed by sand and mud being deposited on them1 and the reefs being thus prevented from growing upwards1 the banks of madreporitic rock were left in their present submerged condition4 ,,the ,,bermuda ,,islands have been carefully described by ,lieutenant ,nelson1 in an excellent ,memoir in the 8,geological ,transactions0 7volume v41 part i41 page #ajc74 ,in the form of the bank or reef1 on one side of which the islands stand1 there is a close general resemblance to an atoll2 but in the following respects there is a considerable difference1--first1 in the margin of the reef not forming 7as ,i have been informed by ,mr4 ,chaffers1 ,r4,n47 a flat1 solid surface1 laid bare at low water1 and regularly bounding the internal space of shallow water or lagoon2 secondly1 in the border of gradually shoaling water1 nearly a mile and a half in width1 which surrounds the entire outside of the reef 7as is laid down in ,captain ,hurd's chart72 and thirdly1 in the size1 height1 and extraordinary form of the islands1 which present little resemblance to the long1 narrow1 simple islets1 seldom exceeding half a mile in breadth1 which surmount the annular reefs of almost all the atolls in the ,indian and ,pacific ,oceans4 ,moreover1 there are evident proofs 7,nelson1 ,ibid41 page #aah71 that islands similar to the existing ones1 formerly extended over other parts of the reef4 ,it would1 ,i believe1 be difficult to find a true atoll with land exceeding thirty feet in height2 whereas1 ,mr4 ,nelson estimates the highest point of the ,bermuda ,islands to be #bfj feet2 if1 however1 ,mr4 ,nelson's view1 that the whole of the land consists of sand drifted by the winds1 and agglutinated together1 were proved correct1 this difference would be immaterial2 but1 from his own account 7page #aah71 there occur in one place1 five or six layers of red earth1 interstratified with the ordinary calcareous rock1 and including stones too heavy for the wind to have moved1 without having at the same time utterly dispersed every grain of the accompanying drifted matter4 ,mr4 ,nelson attributes the origin of these several layers1 with their embedded stones1 to as many violent catastrophes2 but further investigation in such cases has generally succeeded in explaining phenomena of this kind by ordinary and simpler means4 ,finally1 ,i may remark1 that these islands have a considerable resemblance in shape to ,barbuda in the ,west ,indies1 and to ,pemba on the eastern coast of ,africa1 which latter island is about two hundred feet in height1 and consists of coral-rock4 ,i believe that the ,bermuda ,islands1 from being fringed by living reefs1 ought to have been coloured red2 but ,i have left them uncoloured1 on account of their general resemblance in external form to a lagoon-island or atoll4 ,,index4 ,the names not in capitals are all names of places1 and refer exclusively to the ,appendix3 in well-defined archipelagoes1 or groups of islands1 the name of each separate island is not given4 ,,abrolhos1 ,brazil1 coated by corals4 ,abrolhos 7,australia74 ,,absence of coral-reefs from certain coasts4 ,acaba1 gulf of4 ,admiralty group4 ,,africa1 east coast1 fringing-reef of4 ,madreporitic rock of4 ,africa1 east coast4 ,,age of individual corals4 ,aiou4 ,aitutaki4 ,aldabra4 ,alert reef4 ,alexander1 ,grand ,duke1 island4 ,,allan1 ,dr41 on ,holuthuri feeding on corals4 ,on quick growth of corals at ,madagascar4 ,on reefs affected by currents4 ,alloufatou4 ,alphonse4 ,amargoura4 7,amargura47 ,amboina4 ,america1 west coast4 ,amirantes4 ,anachorites4 ,anambas4 ,,anamouka1 description of4 ,anamouka4 ,anadaman islands4 ,antilles4 ,appoo reef4 ,arabia ,felix4 ,,areas1 great extent of1 interspersed with low islands4 ,of subsidence and of elevation4 ,of subsidence appear to be elongated4 ,of subsidence alternating with areas of elevation4 ,arru group4 ,arzobispo4 ,,ascidia1 depth at which found4 ,assomption4 ,astova4 ,atlantic islands4 ,,atolls1 breaches in their reefs4 ,dimensions of4 ,dimensions of groups of4 ,not based on craters or on banks of sediment1 or of rock4 ,of irregular forms4 ,steepness of their flanks4 ,width of their reef and islets4 ,their lowness4 ,lagoons4 ,general range4 ,with part of their reef submerged1 and theory of4 ,augustine1 ,st4 ,,aurora island1 an upraised atoll4 ,aurora4 ,,austral islands1 recently elevated4 ,austral islands4 ,australia1 ,n4,w4 coast4 ,,australian barrier-reef4 ,australian barrier4 ,babuyan group4 ,bahama banks4 ,balahac4 ,bally4 ,baring4 ,,barrier-,,reef of ,australia4 ,of ,new ,caledonia4 ,,barrier-,,reefs1 breaches through4 ,not based on worn down margin of rock4 ,on banks of sediment4 ,on submarine craters4 ,steepness of their flanks4 ,their probable vertical thickness4 ,theory of their formation4 ,bampton shoal4 ,banks islands4 ,banks in the ,west ,indies4 ,bashee islands4 ,bass island4 ,batoa4 ,beaupre reef4 ,,beechey1 ,captain1 obligations of the author to4 ,on submerged reefs4 ,account of ,matilda island4 ,,belcher1 ,captain1 on boring through coral-reef4 ,belize reef1 off4 ,bellinghausen4 ,bermuda islands4 ,beveridge reef4 ,bligh4 ,,bolabola1 view of4 ,bombay shoal4 ,bonin ,bay4 ,bonin group4 ,,borings through coral-reefs4 ,,borneo1 ,w4 coast1 recently elevated4 ,borneo1 ,e4 coast4 ,s4,w4 and ,w4 coast ,n4 coast4 ,western bank4 ,boscawen4 ,boston4 ,bouka4 ,bourbon4 ,bourou4 ,bouton4 ,,brazil1 fringing-reefs on coast of4 ,,breaches through barrier-reefs4 ,brook4 ,bunker4 ,bunoa4 ,,byron4 ,cagayanes4 ,candelaria4 ,cargados ,carajos4 ,caroline archipelago4 ,caroline island4 ,carteret shoal4 ,,caryophyllia1 depth at which it lives4 ,cavilli4 ,cayman island4 ,celebes4 ,ceram4 ,,ceylon1 recently elevated4 ,ceylon4 ,,chagos ,great ,bank1 description and theory of4 ,,chagos group4 ,chagos group4 ,,chama-,,shells embedded in coral-rock4 ,,chamisso1 on corals preferring the surf4 ,,changes in the state of ,keeling atoll4 ,of atolls4 ,,channels leading into the lagoons of atolls4 ,into the ,maldiva atolls4 ,through barrier-reefs4 ,chase4 ,china sea4 ,,christmas atoll4 ,christmas atoll4 ,christmas island 7,indian ,ocean74 ,clarence4 ,clipperton rock4 ,,cocos1 or ,keeling atoll4 ,cocos 7or ,keeling74 ,cocos island 7,pacific74 ,,cochin ,china1 encroachments of the sea on the coast4 ,cochin ,china4 ,coetivi4 ,comoro group4 ,,composition of coral-formations4 ,,conglomerate coral-rock on ,keeling atoll4 ,on other atolls4 ,coral-rock4 ,,cook islands1 recently elevated4 ,cook islands4 ,,coral-,,blocks bored by vermiform animals4 ,,coral-,,reefs1 their distribution and absence from certain areas4 ,destroyed by loose sediment4 ,,coral-,,rock at ,keeling atoll4 ,mauritius4 ,organic remains of4 ,,corals dead but upright in ,keeling lagoon4 ,depths at which they live4 ,off ,keeling atoll4 ,killed by a short exposure4 ,living in the lagoon of ,keeling atoll4 ,quick growth of1 in ,keeling lagoon4 ,merely coating the bottom of the sea4 ,standing exposed in the ,low archipelago4 ,,corallian sea4 ,corallian sea4 ,cornwallis4 ,cosmoledo4 ,,couthouy1 ,mr41 alleged proofs of recent elevation of the ,low archipelago4 ,on coral-rock at ,mangaia and ,aurora islands4 ,on external ledges round coral-islands4 ,remarks confirmatory of the author's theory4 ,,crescent-,,formed reefs4 ,cuba4 ,,cuming1 ,mr41 on the recent elevation of the ,philippines4 ,dangerous1 or ,low archipelago4 ,danger islands4 ,,depths at which reef-building corals live4 ,at ,mauritius1 the ,red ,sea1 and in the ,maldiva archipelago4 ,at which other corals and corallines can live4 ,dhalac group4 ,,diego ,,garcia1 slow growth of reef4 ,,dimensions of the larger groups of atolls4 ,,disseverment of the ,maldiva atolls1 and theory of4 ,,distribution of coral-reefs4 ,domingo1 ,st4 ,,dory1 ,port1 recently elevated4 ,dory1 ,port4 ,duff islands4 ,durour4 ,eap4 ,,earthquakes at ,keeling atoll4 ,in groups of atolls4 ,in ,navigator archipelago4 ,,east ,,indian ,,archipelago1 recently elevated4 ,easter4 ,echequier4 ,,ehrenberg1 on the banks of the ,red ,sea4 ,on depths at which corals live in the ,red ,sea4 ,on corals preferring the surf4 ,on the antiquity of certain corals4 ,eimeo4 ,,elevated reef of ,mauritius4 ,,elevations1 recent proofs of4 ,immense areas of4 ,elivi4 ,,elizabeth island4 ,recently elevated4 ,elizabeth island4 ,ellice group4 ,,encircled ,,islands1 their height4 ,geological composition4 ,,eoua1 description of4 ,eoua4 ,,erupted ,,matter probably not associated with thick masses of coral-rock4 ,,fais1 recently elevated4 ,fais4 ,fanning4 ,farallon de ,medinilla4 ,farson group4 ,fataka4 ,,fiji archipelago4 ,,fish1 feeding on corals4 ,killed in ,keeling lagoon by heavy rain4 ,,fissures across coral-islands4 ,,fitzroy1 ,captain1 on a submerged shed at ,keeling atoll4 ,on an inundation in the ,low archipelago4 ,flint4 ,flores4 ,florida4 ,folger4 ,formosa4 ,,forster1 theory of coral-formations4 ,frederick reef4 ,freewill4 ,,friendly group recently elevated4 ,friendly archipelago4 ,,fringing-,,reefs1 absent where coast precipitous4 ,breached in front of streams4 ,described by ,,mm4 ,quoy and ,gaimard4 ,not closely attached to shelving coasts4 ,of east coast of ,africa4 ,of ,cuba4 ,of ,mauritius4 ,on worn down banks of rock4 ,on banks of sediment4 ,their appearance when elevated4 ,their growth influenced by currents4 ,by shallowness of sea4 ,galapagos archipelago4 ,galega4 ,,gambier islands1 section of4 ,gambier islands4 ,gardner4 ,gaspar rico4 ,,geological ,,composition of coral-formations4 ,gilbert archipelago4 ,gilolo4 ,glorioso4 ,,gloucester ,island4 ,glover reef4 ,gomez4 ,gouap4 ,goulou4 ,grampus4 ,gran ,cocal4 ,,great ,,chagos ,,bank1 description and theory of4 ,,grey1 ,captain1 on sandbars4 ,,grouping of the different classes of reefs4 ,guedes4 ,,hall1 ,captain ,b41 on ,loo ,choo4 ,,harvey islands1 recently elevated4 ,,height of encircled islands4 ,hermites4 ,hervey or ,cook islands4 ,hogoleu4 ,,holothuriae 7,holuthuri7 feeding on coral4 ,,houden island1 height of4 ,honduras1 reef off4 ,horn4 ,houtman ,abrolhos4 ,,huaheine2 alleged proofs of its recent elevation4 ,huaheine4 ,humphrey4 ,hunter4 ,,hurricanes1 effects of1 on coral-islands4 ,immaum4 ,independence4 ,,india1 west coast1 recently elevated4 ,india4 ,,irregular ,,reefs in shallow seas4 ,,islets of coral-rock1 their formation4 ,their destruction in the ,maldiva atolls4 ,jamaica4 ,jarvis4 ,,java1 recently elevated4 ,java4 ,johnston island4 ,juan de ,nova4 ,juan de ,nova 7,madagascar74 ,kalatoa4 ,,kamtschatka1 proofs of its recent elevation4 ,karkalang4 ,,keeling atoll1 section of reef4 ,keeling1 south atoll4 ,north atoll4 ,keffing4 ,kemin4 ,kennedy4 ,keppel4 ,kumi4 ,laccadive group4 ,,ladrones1 or ,marianas1 recently elevated4 ,ladrones archipelago4 ,,lagoon of ,keeling atoll4 ,,lagoons bordered by inclined ledges and walls1 and theory of their formation4 ,of small atolls filled up with sediment4 ,,lagoon-,,channels within barrier-reefs4 ,,lagoon-,,reefs1 all submerged in some atolls1 and rising to the surface in others4 ,lancaster reef4 ,latte4 ,lauglan islands4 ,,ledges round certain lagoons4 ,lette4 ,lighthouse reef4 ,,lloyd1 ,mr41 on corals refixing themselves4 ,,loo ,,choo1 recently elevated4 ,loo ,choo4 ,louisiade4 ,,low ,,archipelago1 alleged proofs of its recent elevation4 ,low archipelago4 ,,lowness of coral-islands4 ,loyalty group4 ,lucepara4 ,,lutke1 ,admiral1 on fissures across coral-islands4 ,,luzon1 recently elevated4 ,luzon4 ,,lyell1 ,mr41 on channels into the lagoons of atolls4 ,on the lowness of their leeward sides4 ,on the antiquity of certain corals4 ,on the apparent continuity of distinct coral-islands4 ,on the recently elevated beds of the ,red ,sea4 ,on the outline of the areas of subsidence4 ,macassar strait4 ,macclesfield bank4 ,,madagascar1 quick growth of corals at4 ,madreporitic rock of4 ,madagascar4 ,madjiko-sima4 ,madura 7,java74 ,madura 7,india74 ,,mahlos ,,mahdoo1 theory of formation4 ,,malacca1 recently elevated4 ,malacca4 ,,malcolmson1 ,dr41 on recent elevation of ,w4 coast of ,india4 ,on recent elevation of ,camaran island4 ,malden4 ,,maldiva atolls1 and theory of their formation4 ,steepness of their flanks4 ,growth of coral at4 ,maldiva archipelago4 ,,mangaia island4 ,recently elevated4 ,mangaia4 ,mangs4 ,,marianas1 recently elevated4 ,mariana archipelago4 ,mariere4 ,marquesas archipelago4 ,marshall archipelago4 ,marshall island4 ,martinique4 ,martires4 ,,mary',s ,,st41 in ,madagascar1 harbour made in reefs4 ,mary island4 ,matia1 or ,aurora4 ,,matilda atoll4 ,,mauritius1 fringing-reefs of4 ,depths at which corals live there4 ,recently elevated4 ,mauritius4 ,,maurua1 section of4 ,maurua4 ,,menchikoff atoll4 ,mendana archipelago4 ,mendana isles4 ,mexico1 gulf of4 ,,millepora ,,complanata at ,keeling atoll4 ,mindoro4 ,mohilla4 7,mohila47 ,,molucca islands1 recently elevated4 ,mopeha4 ,,moresby1 ,captain1 on boring through coral-reefs4 ,morty4 ,mosquito coast4 ,,musquillo atoll4 ,mysol4 ,,namourrek group4 ,natunas4 ,,navigator archipelago1 elevation of4 ,navigator archipelago4 ,nederlandisch4 ,,nelson1 ,lieutenant1 on the consolidation of coral-rocks under water4 ,theory of coral-formations4 ,on the ,bermuda islands4 ,new ,britain4 ,,new ,,caledonia1 steepness of its reefs4 ,barrier-reef of4 ,new ,caledonia4 ,new ,guinea 7,e4 end74 ,new ,guinea 7,w4 end74 ,new ,hanover4 ,,new ,,hebrides1 recently elevated4 ,new ,hebrides4 ,,new ,,ireland1 recently elevated4 ,new ,ireland4 ,new ,nantucket4 ,nicobar islands4 ,niouha4 ,,nulliporae at ,keeling atoll4 ,on the reefs of atolls4 ,on barrier-reefs4 ,their wide distribution and abundance4 ,,objections to the theory of subsidence4 ,ocean islands4 ,ono4 ,onouafu4 7,onouafou47 ,ormuz4 ,oscar group4 ,,oscillations of level4 ,ouallan1 or ,ualan4 7,oualan47 ,,ouluthy atoll4 ,outong ,java4 ,palawan1 ,s4,w4 coast4 ,n4,w4 coast4 ,western bank4 ,palmerston4 ,palmyra4 ,paracells4 ,paraquas4 ,patchow4 ,pelew islands4 ,,pemba island1 singular form of4 ,pemba4 ,penrhyn4 ,peregrino4 ,,pernambuco1 bar of sandstone at4 ,,persian gulf1 recently elevated4 ,persian gulf4 ,,pescado4 ,pescadores4 ,peyster group4 ,philip4 ,,philippine archipelago1 recently elevated4 ,philippine archipelago4 ,phnix4 ,piguiram4 ,pitcairn4 ,,pitt',s bank4 ,pitt island4 ,platte4 ,pleasant4 ,,porites1 chief coral on margin of ,keeling atoll4 ,postillions4 ,,pouynipete4 ,its probable subsidence4 ,pouynipte4 ,pratas shoal4 ,proby4 ,providence4 ,puerto ,rico4 ,pulo ,anna4 ,,pumice floated to coral-islands4 ,pylstaart4 ,,pyrard ,,de ,,laval1 astonishment at the atolls in the ,indian ,ocean4 ,,quoy ,,and ,,gaimard1 depths at which corals live4 ,description of reefs applicable only to fringing-reefs4 ,,range of atolls4 ,rapa4 ,rearson4 ,,red ,,sea1 banks of rock coated by reefs4 ,proofs of its recent elevation4 ,supposed subsidence of4 ,red ,sea4 ,,reefs1 irregular in shallow seas4 ,rising to the surface in some lagoons and all submerged in others4 ,their distribution4 ,their absence from some coasts4 ,revilla-gigedo4 ,,ring-,,formed ,,reefs of the ,maldiva atolls1 and theory of4 ,rodriguez4 ,rosario4 ,rose island4 ,rotches4 ,rotoumah4 ,roug4 ,rowley shoals4 ,,ruppell1 ,dr41 on the recent deposits of ,red ,sea4 ,sable1 ile de4 ,sahia de ,malha4 ,st4 ,pierre4 ,sala4 ,salomon archipelago4 7,solomon47 ,,samoa1 or ,navigator archipelago1 elevation of4 ,samoa archipelago4 ,,sand-,,bars parallel to coasts4 ,sandal-wood4 ,,sandwich archipelago1 recently elevated4 ,sandwich archipelago4 ,sanserot4 ,santa-,cruz group4 ,,savage island1 recently elevated4 ,savage4 ,savu4 ,saya1 or ,sahia de ,malha4 ,scarborough shoal4 ,,scarus feeding on corals4 ,schouten4 ,scilly4 ,,scoriae floated to coral-islands4 ,scott's reef4 ,,sections of islands encircled by barrier-reefs4 ,of ,bolabola4 ,,sediment in ,keeling lagoon4 ,in other atolls4 ,injurious to corals4 ,transported from coral-islands far seaward4 ,seniavine4 ,serangani4 ,seychelles4 ,,ship-,,bottom quickly coated with coral4 ,,smyth island4 ,,society archipelago1 stationary condition of4 ,alleged proofs of recent elevation4 ,society archipelago4 ,socotra4 ,solor4 ,,sooloo islands1 recently elevated4 ,sooloo islands4 ,souvaroff4 ,spanish4 ,,sponge1 depths at which found4 ,starbuck4 7,slarbuck47 ,,stones transported in roots of trees4 ,,storms1 effects of1 on coral-islands4 ,,stutchbury1 ,mr41 on the growth of an ,agaricia4 ,on upraised corals in ,society archipelago4 ,,subsidence of ,keeling atoll4 ,extreme slowness of4 ,areas of1 apparently elongated4 ,areas of immense4 ,great amount of4 ,suez1 gulf of4 ,sulphur islands4 ,,sumatra1 recently elevated4 ,sumatra4 ,sumbawa4 ,,surf favourable to the growth of massive corals4 ,swallow shoal4 ,sydney island4 ,,tahiti1 alleged proofs of its recent elevation4 ,tahiti4 ,,temperature of the sea at the ,galapagos archipelago4 ,tenasserim4 ,tenimber island4 ,teturoa4 ,,theories on coral-formations4 ,,theory ,,of subsidence1 and objections to4 ,,thickness1 vertical1 of barrier-reefs4 ,thomas1 ,st4 ,tikopia4 ,,timor1 recently elevated4 ,timor4 ,timor-laut4 ,tokan-,bessees4 ,tongatabou4 ,tonquin4 ,toubai4 ,toufoa4 7,toofoa47 ,toupoua4 ,,traditions ,,of ,,change in coral-islands4 ,,tridacnae embedded in coral-rock4 ,left exposed in the ,low archipelago4 ,,tubularia1 quick growth of4 ,tumbelan4 ,turneffe reef4 ,turtle4 ,ualan4 ,,vanikoro1 section of4 ,its state and changes in its reefs4 ,vanikoro4 ,vine reef4 ,virgin ,gorda4 ,viti archipelago4 ,,volcanic islands1 with living corals on their shores4 ,matter1 probably not associated with thick masses of coral-rock4 ,,volcanoes1 authorities for their position on the map4 ,their presence determined by the movements in progress4 ,absent or extinct in the areas of subsidence4 ,waigiou4 ,wallis island4 ,washington4 ,well's reef4 ,,wellstead1 ,lieutenant1 account of a ship coated with corals4 ,,west ,,indies1 banks of sediment fringed by reefs4 ,recently elevated4 ,west ,indies4 ,,whitsunday island1 view of4 ,changes in its state4 ,,williams1 ,rev4 ,j41 on traditions of the natives regarding coral-islands4 ,on antiquity of certain corals4 ,wolchonsky4 ,wostock4 ,xulla islands4 ,york island4 ,yucutan1 coast of4 ,,zones of different kinds of corals outside the same reefs4