,transcriber's ,note ,obvious typographical errors have been corrected4 ,a list of changes is found at the end of the text4 ,inconsistency in spelling and hyphenation has been maintained4 ,a list of inconsistently spelled words is found at the end of the text4 ,oe ligatures have been expanded4 ,the following codes have been used for characters that cannot be displayed in the character set used for this e-book4 ,dagger -- ,right pointing hand ,,choice ,,cookery ,,by ,,catherine ,,owen ,,author ,,of ,,ten ,,dollars ,,enough ,,gentle ,,bread-,,winners ,,etc4 ,,new ,,york ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,franklin ,,square #ahhi ,copyright1 #ahhi1 by ,,harper ,,brothers4 ,all rights reserved4 ,,preface4 ,choice cookery is not intended for households that have to study economy1 except where economy is a relative term2 where1 perhaps1 the housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury1 but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge4 ,many families enjoy giving little dinners1 or otherwise exercising hospitality1 but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in1 or an expensive extra cook engaged4 ,and although we may regret that hospitality should ever be dependent on fine cooking1 we have to take things as they are4 ,it is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it4 ,it was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for ,harper's ,bazar1 and are now gathered into a book4 ,it is hoped by the writer that the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of cookery to venture further1 and realize for themselves that it is only the first step that costs4 ,i have to acknowledge my indebtedness to ,mrs4 ,clarke1 of the ,south ,kensington ,school of ,cookery1 to ,madame de ,salis1 and those epicurean friends who have cast their nets in foreign waters1 and sent me the daintiest fish they caught4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,,introduction #a ,,ii4 ,,sauces #aa ,,iii4 ,,white ,,sauces #bc ,,iv4 ,,brown ,,sauces #cc ,v4 ,,cold ,,sauces #db ,,vi4 ,,soups #ea ,,vii4 ,,fish ,,entrees #fa ,,viii4 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,serving ,,oysters #ga ,,ix4 ,,various ,,culinary ,,matters #gi ,x4 ,,entrees #hf ,,xi4 ,,entrees ,,of ,,mutton ,,cutlets ,,or ,,chops #ih ,,xii4 ,,on ,,the ,,manner ,,of ,,preparing ,,croquettes1 ,,cutlets1 ,,kromeskies1 ,,rissoles1 ,,and ,,cigarettes #ajg ,,xiii4 ,,patties #aaf ,,xiv4 ,,entrees #abe ,,xv4 ,,entrees--continued #acd ,,xvi4 ,,entrees--continued #adc ,,xvii4 ,,cold ,,entrees1 ,,or ,,chaudfroids #aec ,,xviii4 ,,cold ,,entrees #afb ,,xix4 ,,galantines1 ,,ballotines1 ,,etc4 #agb ,,xx4 ,,how ,,to ,,fillet4--,,cold ,,game ,,pies #aha ,,xxi4 ,,garnishes #aia ,,xxii4 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,serving ,,vegetables #aii ,,xxiii4 ,,jellies #bjh ,,xxiv4 ,,jellies--continued #bag ,,xxv4 ,,cold ,,sweets4--,,creams #bbf ,,xxvi4 ,,creams ,,and ,,frozen ,,puddings #bce ,,xxvii4 ,,iced ,,puddings #bdc ,,xxviii4 ,,ice-,,creams ,,and ,,water-,,ices #beb ,,xxix4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets #bfb ,,xxx4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets--continued #bga ,,xxxi4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets--continued #bha ,,xxxii4 ,,fine ,,cakes ,,and ,,sauces #bia ,,xxxiii4 ,,salads ,,and ,,cheese ,,dishes #cjj ,,index #cji ,,choice ,,cookery4 ,i4 ,,introduction4 ,by choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply4 ,there will be no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking1 those branches of domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands already4 ,it may be said en passant1 however1 that even choice cooking is not necessarily expensive4 ,many dishes cost little for the materials1 but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in cooking or to a fine sauce4 ,for instance3 cod1 one of the cheapest of fish1 and considered coarse food as usually served1 becomes an epicurean dish when served with a fine ,hollandaise or oyster sauce1 and it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling fish4 ,flounder served as sole ,normande conjures up memories of the famous ,philippe1 whose fortune it made1 or it may be of luxurious little dinners at other famous restaurants1 and is suggestive1 in fact1 of anything but economy4 ,yet it is really an inexpensive dish4 ,but while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean expensive cooking1 it is also true that it requires the best materials and sufficient of them2 that if satisfactory results are to be obtained there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false idea of economy1 although it must never be forgotten that all good cooking is economical1 by which ,i mean that there is no waste1 every cent's worth of material being made to do its full duty4 ,in this book the object will be to give the newest and most recherche dishes1 and these will naturally be expensive4 ,yet for those families who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups1 entrees1 or sauces1 because the cook can achieve only the plain part of the dinner1 it will be found a great economy as well as convenience to be independent of this outside resource1 which is always very costly1 and invariably destroys the individuality of a repast4 ,many new recipes will be given1 and others little known in private kitchens1 or thought to be quite beyond the attainment of any but an accomplished chef4 ,but if strict attention be paid to small matters1 and the directions faithfully carried out1 there will be no difficulty in a lady becoming her own chef4 ,i propose to begin with sauces4 ,this is reversing the usual mode1 and yet ,i think the reader will not regret the innovation4 ,the cooking to be taught in these pages1 being emphatically what is popularly known as ,delmonico cooking1 very much depends on the excellence of the sauces served with each dish2 and as it is no time to learn to make a fine sauce when the dish it is served with is being cooked1 ,i think the better plan is to give the sauces first4 ,they will be frequently referred to1 but no repetition of the recipes will be given4 ,before proceeding further ,i will say a few words that may save time and patience hereafter4 ,of course it is not expected that any one will hope to succeed with elaborate dishes without understanding the principles of simple cooking1 but many do this without perceiving that in that knowledge they hold the key to very much more1 and ,i would ask readers who are in earnest about the matter to acquire the habit of putting two and two together in cooking as they would in fancy-work4 ,if you know half a dozen embroidery or lace stitches1 you see at once that you can produce the elaborate combinations in which those stitches are used4 ,so it is with cooking4 ,the most elaborate dish will only be a combination of two or three simpler processes of cooking1 perfectly done--that is a sine qua non--something fried1 roasted1 boiled1 or braised to perfection1 and a sauce that no chef could improve upon2 but to recognize that this is so--that when you can make a ,chateaubriand sauce or a ,bearnaise perfectly1 and can saute a steak1 the famed filets a la ,chateaubriand or a la ,bearnaise are no longer a mystery1 or that one who can make clear meat jelly and roast a chicken has learned all but the arrangement of a chaudfroid in aspic--will make apparently complicated dishes simple4 ,i go into these matters because ,i hope to cause my readers to think about the recipes they will use1 when they will see for themselves that even the finest cooking is not intricate nor in any way difficult4 ,it requires intelligence and great care about details3 no half-attention will do1 any more than it will in any other thing we attempt1 whether it be high art or domestic art4 ,in making sauces or reading recipes for them it simplifies matters to remember that in savory sauces--by which ,i mean those served with meats or fish--there are what the ,french call the two mother sauces1 white sauce and brown2 all others1 with few exceptions1 are modifications of these two2 that is to say1 bechamel is only white sauce made with white stock and cream instead of milk2 ,allemande is the same1 only yolks of eggs replace the cream2 and so on through the long list of sauces belonging to the blond variety4 ,the simple brown sauce becomes the famous ,chateaubriand by the addition of glaze 7or very strong gravy7 and a glass of white wine1 and is the mother of many others equally fine4 ,this being so1 it will be seen that it is of the first importance that the making of these two mother sauces should be thoroughly understood1 in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully accomplished4 ,it will clear the way for easy work if ,i here give the directions for making one of the most necessary and convenient aids to fine cooking--the above-named glaze4 ,to have it in the house saves much worry and work4 ,if the soup is not just so strong as we wish1 the addition of a small piece of glaze will make it excellent2 or we wish to make brown sauce1 and have no stock1 the glaze comes to our aid4 ,to have stock in the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family1 especially in summer2 with glaze1 which is solidified stock1 one is independent of it4 ,six pounds of lean beef from the leg1 or a knuckle of veal and beef to make six pounds4 ,cut this in pieces two inches square or less2 do the same with half a pound of lean ham1 free from rind or smoky outside1 and which has been scalded five minutes4 ,put the meat into a two-gallon pot with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each1 a turnip1 a carrot1 and a small head of celery4 ,pour over them five quarts of cold water2 let it come slowly to the boiling-point1 when skim1 and draw to a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours4 ,this stock as it is will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies1 with the addition of salt1 which must on no account be added for glaze4 ,to reduce this stock to glaze1 do as follows3 ,strain the stock first through a colander1 and return meat and vegetables to the pot2 put to them four quarts of hot water1 and let it boil four hours longer4 ,the importance of this second boiling1 which may at first sight appear useless economy1 will be seen if you let the two stocks get cold2 the first will be of delightful flavor1 but probably quite liquid2 the last will be flavorless1 but if the boiling process has been slow enough it will be a jelly1 the second boiling having been necessary to extract the gelatine from the bones1 which is indispensable for the formation of glaze4 ,strain both these stocks through a scalded cloth4 7,if they have been allowed to get cool1 heat them in order to strain47 ,put both stocks together into one large pot1 and let it boil as fast as possible with the cover off1 leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over1 also to stir occasionally2 when it is reduced to three pints put it into a small saucepan1 and let it boil more slowly4 ,stir frequently with a wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and has a fine yellowish-brown color1 which will be when it is reduced to a quart or rather less4 ,at this point watch closely1 as it quickly burns4 ,when there is only a pint and a half it will be fit to pour into small cups or jars1 or it may be dried in thin sheets1 if required for soup in travelling2 to do this1 pour it into oiled tin pans an inch deep4 ,when cold it can be cut out in two-inch squares and dried by exposure to the air till it is like glue4 ,one square makes a cup of strong soup if dissolved in boiling water and seasoned4 ,if1 however1 it is put into pots1 it must not be covered until all moisture has evaporated and the glaze shrinks from the sides of the jar4 ,this may take a month4 ,the most convenient of all ways for preserving glaze is to get from your butcher a yard of sausage-skin4 ,tie one end very tightly1 then pour in the glaze while warm by means of a large funnel4 ,tie the skin just as you would sausage as close to the glaze as possible1 cut off any remaining skin1 and hang the one containing the glaze up to dry4 ,when needed1 a slice is cut from this4 ,of course any strong meat and bone-soup can be boiled down in the same way1 and where there is meat on hand in danger of spoiling from sudden change of weather it can be turned into glaze1 and kept indefinitely4 ,i have found glaze five years old as good as the first week4 ,,ii4 ,,sauces4 ,in addition to the glaze1 for which the recipe is given in the preceding pages1 and which will make you independent of the stock pot1 there are several other articles involving very small outlay which it is absolutely necessary to have at hand in order to follow directions without trouble and worry4 ,it is often said by thoughtless housekeepers that cooking-books are of little use1 because the recipes always call for something that is not in the house4 ,this is a habit of mind only1 for the very women who say it keep their work-baskets supplied with everything necessary for work1 not only the everyday white and black spools1 nor would they hesitate to undertake a piece of embroidery which required quite unusual combinations of color or material1 and to be obtained only with difficulty4 ,grant a little of this earnest painstaking to the requirements of the cooking-book at the start1 see that the herb-bottles are supplied with dried herbs 7when fresh are not attainable71 the spice-boxes contain the small quantity of fresh fine spices that is sufficient for a good deal of cooking1 and red and white wine and brandy are in the house1 all of which should be kept in the store-closet for cooking alone1 and not liable to be out when wanted4 ,the so-called ,french herbs are rarely found in ,american gardens1 yet might be very readily sown in early spring1 as parsley is2 but although seldom home-grown1 they are to be found at the ,french market-gardener's in ,washington ,market1 and can be bought fresh and dried in paper bags quickly for use4 ,i say dried quickly1 because unless the sun is very hot much of the aroma will pass into the air2 it is1 therefore1 better to dry them in a cool oven4 ,when they are dry enough to crumble to dust1 free the herbs from stems and twigs1 and put them separately into tin boxes or wide-mouthed bottles1 each labelled4 ,the expense of herbs and spices is very slight1 and they are certainly not neglected among kitchen stores on that account2 it is merely the want of habit in ordering them4 ,in addition to these articles a bottle of capers1 one of olives1 one of anchovies1 canned mushrooms1 and canned truffles should be on hand--the latter should be bought in the smallest-sized cans1 as they are very costly1 but a little goes a long way4 ,families living in the country often have for a season more mushrooms than they can use4 ,in the few days in which they are plentiful opportunity should be taken to peel and dry as many as possible2 when powdered they give a finer flavor than the canned mushroom1 and may be used to great advantage in dark sauces4 ,the ,french chef classes all white sauces as blonde1 and calls the jar of very smooth thick white sauce1 which he keeps ready made as a foundation for most of the family of light sauces1 his blonde or veloute4 ,this explanation is given because directions are often found in ,french recipes to take half a pint of veloute or of blonde4 ,the mistress of a private house may not find it wise or necessary to keep a supply of sauce ready made1 although to one who has to supply a variety of sauces each day it is indispensable2 but the day before a dinner-party sauces can be so made1 and covered with a film of butter to prevent skin forming1 and can then be heated in a bain-marie when required for use4 ,almost every chef has his favorite recipe for veloute1 or white sauce1 but they differ only in points that are little essential2 the foundation is always the same1 as follows3 ,put two ounces of butter in a thick saucepan with two ounces of flour 7tablespoonfuls approximate the ounce1 but weight only should be relied on for fine cooking74 ,let these melt over the fire1 stirring them so that the butter and flour become well mixed2 then let them bubble together1 stirring enough to prevent the flour sticking or changing color4 ,three minutes will suffice to cook the flour2 add a pint of clear hot white stock that has been strained through a cloth4 ,this stock must not be poured slowly1 or the sauce will thicken too fast4 ,hold the pint-measure or other vessel in which the stock may be in the left hand1 stir the butter and flour quickly with the right1 then turn the broth to it all at once4 ,let this simmer an hour until very thick1 then add a gill of very rich cream1 stir1 and the sauce is ready4 ,this is undoubtedly the best way to make white sauce1 which is to serve as a foundation for others1 or is intended to mask meat or poultry1 the long1 slow simmering producing an extreme blandness not to be attained by a quicker method4 ,but circumstances sometimes prevent the previous preparation of the sauce1 in which case it may be made exactly in the same way1 only instead of a pint of broth1 but three gills should be poured on the butter and flour1 and a gill of thick cream stirred in when it boils2 the sauce is finished when it again reaches the boiling-point4 ,this is the foundation for the following grand sauces3 ,poulette1 ,allemande1 ,uxelles1 ,soubise1 ,ste4 ,menehould1 ,perigueux1 ,supreme1 besides all the simpler ones1 which take their name from the chief ingredient1 such as caper1 cauliflower1 celery1 lobster1 etc41 etc4 ,for sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice1 it is better that the veloute1 or white sauce1 should have no cream until the last minute1 or it may curdle4 ,my object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way ,i intend--that is to say1 by building on to1 or omitting from1 one foundation sauce--is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces differing from each other very slightly--a confusion which is only added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each1 as many a painstaking1 intelligent woman's headache will testify4 ,as we progress1 the exact difference between each will be explained4 ,bechamel4--,this sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong2 for bechamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make it so1 and there should always be half cream instead of one third1 as in white sauce1 and when required for fish the stock may be of fish4 ,white sauce is frequently 7perhaps most frequently7 made with milk1 or milk and cream1 in place of stock1 in this country1 and answers admirably for many purposes1 but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking intended in these pages4 ,most readers know how to stir1 and it may seem quite an unnecessary matter to go into4 ,yet if only one reader does not know that to stir means a regular1 even1 slow circling of the spoon1 not only in the centre of the saucepan1 but round the sides1 she will fail in making good sauce4 ,stir1 then1 slowly1 gently1 going over every part of the bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached1 pass the spoon gently round them1 thence back to the middle1 and so on4 ,in this way the sauce gets no chance to stick to any particular spot4 ,a small copper saucepan is the best possible utensil for making sauce1 as it does not burn4 ,the rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint2 pepper1 one fourth the quantity4 ,this1 however1 is only when the stock is unseasoned2 if seasoned1 only salt enough must be added to season the cream and eggs4 ,allemande4--,take half a pint of white sauce1 add to it half the liquor from a can of mushrooms1 and half a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine4 ,let them simmer--stirring all the time--five minutes1 then remove from the fire4 ,set the saucepan into another containing boiling water4 ,have the yolks of three eggs ready beaten1 put a little of the sauce to them1 beat together1 then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce1 which must be returned to the fire1 and stirred until the eggs begin to thicken2 then it must be quickly removed1 and stirred until slightly cool4 ,season with a saltspoonful of salt1 a fourth of one of pepper1 and strain carefully4 ,it must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or soup must not boil after they are added1 or they will curdle4 ,yet if they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken4 ,only keen attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success4 ,if a failure is made the first time1 look upon it as the first step to success1 for you have learned what the danger looks like4 ,make the sauce again as soon as possible1 so that your eye may not lose the impression4 ,it is worth considerable effort 7and it is really only a matter of a few minutes each time7 to make ,allemande sauce well1 for in doing so you also learn to make ,hollandaise and several choice sauces1 as will be seen by those that follow4 ,poulette ,sauce4--,make ,allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing recipe2 add a wineglass of white wine4 ,if sweetbreads or chicken are to be cooked in the sauce1 as is not unusual1 of course the eggs must be left out until the last thing4 ,anything served with this sauce is called a la poulette4 ,sauce a la d',uxelles4--,chop fine a dozen small button mushrooms1 or half a dozen large ones2 parsley and chives1 of each enough to make a teaspoonful when finely chopped2 of lean ham a tablespoonful1 and one small shallot4 ,fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter1 but do not let them brown4 ,stir these into half a pint of white sauce1 simmer three or four minutes1 then add two yolks of eggs1 as for ,allemande1 and the last thing a half-teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 and just enough glaze to make the sauce the shade of a pale ,suede glove4 ,this sauce is used cold to coat meats that have to be cooked in paper1 and many that are afterwards to be fried in bread-crumbs1 for which directions will be given in the entrees4 ,dishes termed a la d',uxelles are among the most recherche productions of the ,french kitchen4 ,villeroi ,sauce4--,make half a pint of white sauce1 which1 as in the case of bechamel1 may be made of fish stock when for use with fish2 chop half a dozen mushrooms1 and add a gill of the liquor to the sauce1 half a saltspoonful of powdered thyme 7or one sprig1 if fresh71 two sprigs of parsley1 and half a bay-leaf2 simmer for fifteen minutes2 strain through a scalded cloth2 replace on the fire2 add a piece of glaze as large as a hazel-nut1 or a tablespoonful of strong meat-gravy1 just enough to give it the shade of palest cafe au lait2 thicken with two yolks of eggs1 as for ,allemande sauce4 ,all articles served with this sauce are termed a la ,villeroi4 ,it differs from d',uxelles only in having no ham1 nor acidity from the lemon2 also1 all flavor of onion is omitted4 ,,iii4 ,,white ,,sauces4 ,supreme sauce gives its name to several dishes dear to epicures--supreme de volaille1 supreme de ,toulouse1 etc4 ,it is made with a pint of thick white sauce1 a pint of very strong chicken broth1 four stalks of parsley1 and six white pepper-corns1 boiled down to half a pint4 ,stir sauce and broth together until thoroughly blended1 then boil rapidly down till thick again1 taking great care it does not burn4 ,add one gill of double cream1 and half a saltspoonful of salt 7if the stock was already seasoned74 ,boil up till thick enough to mask the back of a spoon1 strain1 and the last thing add a small teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,when the white sauce has to be made expressly for the supreme1 it is easier to use strong chicken broth in place of ordinary white stock2 then it is not necessary to add it after4 ,the term to mask the back of a spoon is a common one to indicate the proper thickness for sauces1 but to the untrained eye it may not be easy to decide just what masking means4 ,most sauces should be thin enough to run quite freely from the spoon1 yet not so thin as to leave the color of the spoon visible through the coating of sauce it will retain if it be dipped into it2 there should be a thin opaque coating or mask to the back of the spoon4 ,sauce of this thickness is produced by using one ounce 7exact weight7 of flour of fine quality to half a pint of liquid4 ,meat1 fish1 or vegetables over which sauce of this consistency has been poured will be quite masked1 but the sauce will not be too thick to serve readily with a spoon4 ,this consistency is worth some practice to attain1 for it is the perfection of sauce-making4 ,white sauce1 when intended for the foundation of others1 it must be observed1 is made twice as thick1 to allow for the addition of cream1 wine1 or stock4 ,the only advantage in a private family of making it thus thick is when1 perhaps1 two or three sauces are needed for a dinner2 for example1 a plain white sauce for a vegetable1 caper1 lobster1 or cardinal for other purposes1 and perhaps poulette1 d',uxelles1 or other pale sauce for an entree2 but when one sauce only is required1 it is best to make that one from the beginning2 that is to say1 make white sauce with the additions that form it into ,allemande1 supreme1 or whatever you require4 ,ste4 ,menehould ,sauce is in these days chiefly associated with pigs' feet a la ,ste4 ,menehould1 but is good for several purposes4 ,it is simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms1 a gill of the mushroom liquor1 a large teaspoonful of finely chopped chives1 with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same thickness as before the addition of the mushroom liquor2 that is to say1 thick enough to mask the spoon4 ,strain1 return to the saucepan1 and add a teaspoonful of finely chopped sage leaves1 if for pigs' feet1 or parsley for other purposes2 boil once1 add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice1 and the sauce is ready4 ,bearnaise ,sauce4--,this is one of the most difficult sauces to make1 on account of the danger of the eggs curdling2 but by the following method the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan4 ,it has been said that the terrors of a cook are ,bearnaise sauce and omelette soufflee1 but neither is really difficult2 great care only is necessary for success with each4 ,chop four shallots fine1 put them into a saucepan with half a gill of ,tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar2 boil till reduced to one tablespoonful2 then add one gill of white sauce1 mixing well4 ,stand the saucepan in another of boiling water2 then add1 one at a time1 three yolks of eggs1 beating each1 one well in before adding another1 and on no account let the sauce boil4 ,remove the saucepan from the fire when the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening4 ,have ready three ounces of butter cut into small pieces2 drop one in at a time1 and with an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended2 then add another piece1 and so on1 till all the butter is used4 ,if added too quickly the butter will oil1 therefore great care must be taken to see one piece entirely blend before adding another4 ,the butter will probably salt the sauce enough1 but if not1 add a very little salt4 ,this sauce should have the appearance of a ,welsh-rabbit when ready to spread2 in other words1 it should be very thick1 smooth1 and dark yellow4 ,soubise4--,this sauce1 which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into cotelettes a la ,soubise1 is very easily made4 ,boil half a dozen ,bermuda onions 7medium size7 in milk till quite tender2 press out all the milk2 chop them as fine as possible2 sprinkle a quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them2 then stir them with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce4 ,if the onions should thin the sauce too much 7they are sometimes very watery71 thicken with a yolk of egg1 or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the butter before stirring it in4 ,boil the sauce three minutes4 ,needless to say1 if the yolk of egg is added1 it must be beaten in after the sauce is removed from the stove1 and only allowed to thicken1 not boil4 ,the sauces so far given are what ,french cooks call grand sauces4 ,they are the most important part of the dish with which they are served1 and1 as we have seen1 give the name to it4 ,there are numberless other sauces of which the white sauce is parent that are1 however1 not indispensable to the dish they are served with--by which ,i mean a boiled fish may be served with oyster sauce or ,dutch sauce1 the sauce being in this case simply the adjunct4 ,a dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce1 with a teaspoonful of the vinegar1 makes caper sauce4 ,celery sauce is1 again1 white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery4 ,boil the white part of four heads of celery 7sliced thin7 in milk till it will mash2 this will take an hour1 perhaps more2 then rub the pulp through a coarse sieve1 and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made with half rich cream4 ,oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of stock4 ,the oysters should be bearded1 just allowed to plump in the liquor1 which must then be strained for the sauce1 using a gill of it with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint2 for this quantity a dozen and a half of small oysters will be required4 ,shrimp sauce1 parsley sauce1 lobster sauce1 cucumber sauce1 and all the family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it4 ,cucumber sauce1 which is approved for fish1 is made by grating a cucumber1 and adding it1 with the water from it1 to some white sauce2 boil till well flavored1 and then strain4 ,if too thin1 boil till thick1 stirring carefully4 ,for shrimp sauce canned shrimps serve very well indeed2 they must be thrown for a minute into cold water1 well stirred in it to remove superfluous salt1 then drained1 and dried on a cloth4 ,put a gill of shrimps to half a pint of bechamel made with fish stock1 boil once1 and stir in just enough essence of anchovy to make the sauce a pale shrimp pink4 ,cardinal sauce is a handsome sauce for boiled fish4 ,it is made by drying the coral from a lobster1 then pounding it quite smooth1 with one ounce of butter1 until it is a perfectly smooth paste4 ,stir this into half a pint of bechamel4 ,it should be a fine red when mixed2 pass through a sieve1 and add as much cayenne as will go on the end of the blade of a small penknife4 ,hollandaise or ,dutch sauce is best made in the following way4 ,there are other methods1 but this one meets general approval1 is not difficult1 and agrees with many who cannot possibly eat it when oil is used4 ,make half a pint of drawn butter by melting one ounce of butter with one ounce of flour over the fire2 let them bubble together 7stirring the while7 for one minute2 then stir in half a pint of boiling water and half a teaspoonful of salt4 ,so far1 the making is exactly the same as for white sauce1 except that water is used instead of cream and stock4 ,boil once1 then set the saucepan in another of water1 and break up an ounce of butter into small pieces and add them2 stir briskly after each piece is added1 and see it blend before putting more4 ,when all is in1 add the beaten yolks of five eggs1 removing the saucepan from the fire while doing it4 ,they must be very carefully and gradually stirred in1 and when well mixed returned to the fire until they begin to thicken4 ,the eggs must be kept from curdling4 ,squeeze in two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice1 and add just a dust of cayenne4 ,this should be a thick1 yellow1 custard-like sauce1 and have a perceptible acidity without being sour4 ,,iv4 ,,brown ,,sauces4 ,it has been already stated that the family of brown sauces1 like the white1 have one parent1 ,espagnole1 or ,spanish sauce1 which is the foundation for ,chateaubriand1 ,financiere1 ,robert1 ,poivrade1 ,piquante1 and other sauces4 ,ordinary brown sauce1 like ordinary white1 is often made without stock--simply an ounce of flour1 one of butter1 browned together1 and half a pint of boiling water added1 then boiled till thick and smooth4 ,but it may be safely said that in high-class dark sauces water should play no part2 its place must be taken by stock of good quality1 which is often enriched by reducing or adding glaze4 ,the characteristics of finely made ,spanish sauce are a clear beautiful brown1 by no means approaching black1 absolute freedom from grease1 and a fine high flavor1 so well blended that no particular spice or herb can be detected4 ,spanish sauce is made as follows3 ,wash1 peel1 and cut small six mushrooms 7or a dessertspoonful of mushroom powder71 one small carrot1 one small onion1 and one shallot2 dry them1 and fry them a fine brown in a tablespoonful of butter1 but do not let them burn2 drain off the butter4 ,melt in a copper saucepan two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour1 stir them together over the fire till of a pale bright brown1 then add a pint of stock1 the fried vegetables1 and a gill of tomato sauce2 let all gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off4 ,strain through a fine sieve4 ,when ,spanish sauce is to be served without any addition1 and not as a foundation1 a wineglass of sherry is used and the same quantity of stock omitted4 ,it becomes ,chateaubriand by the addition of a wineglass of sherry reduced to half a glass by boiling in a tiny saucepan1 a dessertspoonful of fresh parsley very finely chopped1 and the juice of half a small lemon4 ,these must be added to one third the quantity of ,espagnole1 or ,spanish sauce1 given in the foregoing recipe4 ,then stir in gradually1 bit by bit1 one ounce of butter1 letting each piece blend before adding more4 ,i have said here and elsewhere1 the juice of half a small lemon4 ,yet ,i would caution the reader to squeeze it in gradually1 because some lemons are intensely sour1 and a very few drops of juice from such go farther than that of the whole half of an average lemon4 ,chateaubriand sauce is by no means acid2 there must be only a just perceptible dash of acidity1 and only so much lemon juice used as will give it zest4 ,piquante sauce is different2 there should be acidity enough to provoke appetite2 yet even this should be by no means sour4 ,to make ,piquante sauce1 chop a shallot fine1 put it1 with a tablespoonful of vinegar1 into a very small saucepan2 let them stew together until the vinegar is entirely absorbed1 but do not let it burn4 ,then add to it half a pint of ,spanish sauce and a gill of stock1 with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme2 cook very gently ten minutes1 remove the thyme and bay-leaf1 and add a dessertspoonful of chopped pickled cucumber1 a teaspoonful of capers1 and a dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley4 ,simmer very slowly ten minutes more2 then add enough cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade4 ,poivrade resembles piquante sauce very closely1 differing from it1 however1 by the addition of wine and higher flavoring4 ,to make it1 fry an onion and a small carrot cut fine1 a tomato sliced1 and an ounce of lean ham in two ounces of butter2 let them brown slightly2 then add to them half a pint of claret1 a bouquet of herbs1 two cloves1 and six peppercorns2 let them simmer till the wine is reduced one half2 then add half a pint of good ,spanish sauce1 boil gently ten minutes1 strain1 and serve very hot4 ,a true ,french poivrade has a soupcon of garlic1 obtained by rubbing a crust on a clove of it1 and simmering it in the sauce before straining it2 but although many would like the scarcely perceptible zest imparted by this cautious use of garlic1 no one should try the experiment unless sure of her company4 ,a bouquet of herbs always means two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 one of marjoram1 and a bay-leaf1 so rolled together 7the bay-leaf in the middle7 and tied that there is no difficulty in removing it from any dish which is not to be strained4 ,the well-known ,bordelaise sauce is simply ,spanish sauce with the addition of white wine and shallots4 ,scald a tablespoonful of chopped shallots2 put them to half a pint of ,chablis1 ,sauterne1 or any similar white wine2 let the wine reduce to one gill2 then mix with it half a pint of ,spanish sauce and the sixth part of a saltspoonful of pepper4 ,strain and serve4 ,robert sauce1 that excellent adjunct to beefsteak1 varies again from ,bordelaise1 vinegar and mustard and fried onions taking the place of the wine and shallot4 ,chop three medium-sized onions quite fine2 fry them in a tablespoonful of butter until they are a clear yellowish-brown1 stirring them constantly as they fry2 drain them1 and put them to a half-pint of ,spanish sauce1 to which you add a wineglass of stock 7to allow for boiling away72 simmer gently twenty minutes2 add a pinch of pepper2 strain2 then mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a teaspoonful of mustard2 stir this into the sauce4 ,sauce a la ,normande is one of the most delicious sauces for baked fish of any kind1 although usually associated with sole4 ,to half a pint of ,spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half1 a dozen small oysters with the beards removed1 and a dozen crawfish1 if they are to be had1 or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked 7canned shrimps1 washed and dried1 answer very well71 one tablespoonful of essence of anchovy1 and just a dust of ,cayenne pepper4 ,light ,normande is made by using bechamel instead of ,spanish sauce1 adding all the other materials2 it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce1 excellent for boiled fish4 ,a favorite ,english sauce for fish1 which is also brown or pink1 according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish1 is the ,downton sauce4 ,to three quarters of a pint of bechamel add a dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry1 mix well1 and serve4 ,orange sauce for game is made with half a pint of ,spanish sauce boiled five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual1 the juice of three sweet oranges1 and the peel of one4 ,this peel must be so thinly pared as to be transparent4 ,boil this peel half an hour in water1 then shred it into fine even strips half an inch long1 and not thicker than broom straw4 ,stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock1 with a scant teaspoonful of sugar2 then add it to the sauce1 with half a saltspoonful of salt1 and boil five minutes4 ,matelote may come in with the brown sauces1 although it is not made with ,spanish sauce as a foundation1 but only with strong stock4 ,it is used to simmer fish in when directed to be a la matelote1 and if it were already thickened the whole would burn4 ,it is made as follows3 ,half a pint of ,sauterne or ,chablis1 half a pint of rich stock1 two bay-leaves1 three leaves of tarragon1 chervil1 and chive1 a scant saltspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of pepper2 simmer these until reduced to one half-pint4 ,a touch of garlic is indispensable to the true matelote1 but when used it must be done with the greatest caution2 a fork stuck into a clove of it1 then stirred in the sauce 7the fork1 when withdrawn1 not the garlic71 or a crust rubbed once across a piece of it1 is the only way in which it should be used4 ,like the white sauces1 the family of brown ones is very large1 but ,i have given those which require special directions4 ,others are simply ,spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name to it1 as brown oyster sauce is simply ,spanish sauce with oysters1 celery sauce1 mushroom sauce1 and so on4 ,it should always be remembered that the consistency must be preserved2 that is to say1 except when special mention is made of the sauce being thinner1 it should mask the spoon1 and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it1 as mushrooms and part of their liquor1 it must be rapidly boiled down to the original thickness4 ,in the same way1 when ingredients have to be simmered in the sauce--and this is very often the case--then a wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the wasting4 ,in the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown sauce4 ,these are chiefly cold sauces1 although served with hot dishes at times1 as ,tartare1 ,remoulade1 etc4 ,v4 ,,cold ,,sauces4 ,cold dishes1 which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery1 are much neglected with us1 at least in private kitchens1 or they are limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise1 or a galantine1 yet the dishes which the ,french call chaudfroids are both delicious and ornamental1 and it only requires a little taste1 care1 and perfect sauce to convert the ordinary cold chicken1 turkey1 or game into an elaborate and choice dish4 ,among cold sauces1 of course mayonnaise1 both green1 red1 and yellow1 reigns supreme2 indeed1 of late years it has become almost hackneyed4 ,yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different forms of mayonnaise4 ,mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care1 and very little on skill1 and yet some women have quite a reputation for making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their own efforts have been1 and that to succeed is a gift4 ,it is not as a novelty1 therefore1 that the manner of making it is given here1 but that those who believe they have not the magic fingers may take courage and try again4 ,first of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many4 ,i have been frequently asked1 ,how much oil can ,i use to two eggs8 the answer is1 ,as much as you choose2 or1 again1 ,how many eggs ought ,i to take to a quart of oil8 again the answer is1 ,one1 two1 three1 or four4 ,the egg is only a foundation1 and mayonnaise will come no better with two yolks than one1 although some chefs consider it keeps better when two eggs are used to a pint of oil4 ,a cool room is always insisted on for making the sauce1 but to the amateur ,i say1 oil1 eggs1 and bowl also1 should be put in the ice-box until well chilled1 and even then mishaps may come from using a warm spoon from a hot kitchen drawer or closet2 that1 therefore1 must be cool also4 ,of course it is often successfully made with only the usual precaution of a cool room1 but with everything well chilled it is hard to fail4 ,if very little of the sauce is wanted1 one yolk of egg will be better than two4 ,separate the yolks very carefully1 allowing not a speck of white to remain2 remove also the germ which is attached to the yolk4 ,stir the yolk at least a minute before beginning to add oil2 then arrange your bottle or a sharp-spouted pitcher in your left hand so that it rests on the edge of the bowl1 and you can keep up a pretty steady drop1 drop1 into the egg1 while you stir with your right steadily4 ,the oil must be added drop by drop1 but this does not mean a drop every two or three minutes2 you may add a drop to every one or two circuits of the spoon4 ,the reason for adding it slowly is that each drop may form an emulsion with the egg before more goes in4 ,after two or three minutes look carefully at the mixture2 if it has not begun to look pale and opaque1 but retains a dark1 oily appearance1 stir it steadily for two minutes1 and then add oil slowly1 drop by drop1 stirring all the time4 ,if it has not now begun to thicken1 it probably will not2 but the materials are not lost4 ,put the yolk of another egg into a cool bowl1 and begin again using the egg and oil you have already mixed1 in place of fresh oil4 ,when this is all used1 proceed with the oil 7it is hoped1 however1 that the work will have proceeded without the necessity for beginning afresh74 ,when the mayonnaise becomes quite thick1 use a few drops of vinegar to thin it2 then more oil1 until sufficient sauce is made4 ,then white pepper and salt should be added for seasoning4 ,the vinegar used should be very strong1 so that very little of it will be sufficient to give the necessary acidity1 without making it too thin4 ,this is especially the case when the sauce is required to mask salad4 ,it should for this purpose be set on ice until firm1 but in all cases be kept cold4 ,the best mayonnaise1 left in a warm kitchen1 would separate and become oily4 ,the stirring must be steady and constant1 and the task must not be left until completed4 ,mayonnaise is the basis of several other sauces1 so that in accomplishing it a great deal is done4 ,green mayonnaise is made by dropping a bunch of parsley into boiling water1 and in a minute or two1 when it becomes intensely green1 take it up1 pound it in a mortar1 and then through a sieve4 ,use as much pulp as will color the sauce a delicate green4 ,red mayonnaise1 used for cardinal salad and other purposes1 is made by pounding lobster coral very fine and stirring it in4 ,it must not be forgotten that anything added to mayonnaise must be ice-cold4 ,aspic mayonnaise is another form of the sauce1 used in dressing cold dishes1 and while more delicious than the usual sauce1 will keep its form for hours after the dish is dressed4 ,it is absolutely necessary to prepare it on ice4 ,put half a pint of stiff aspic jelly into a bowl set in cracked ice1 whisk it with an egg-beater until it is a white froth 7usually the motion will melt it1 but to save labor it may be set in lukewarm water to soften1 then beaten1 but no oil must be added until it is again ice-cold froth72 then beat in very gradually a quarter of a pint of olive oil and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar1 proceeding with the same care as for the usual mayonnaise2 add a saltspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper1 and the same of powdered sugar4 ,norwegian sauce is preferred by many to ,tartare for some purposes1 and is made by adding freshly grated horseradish to mayonnaise in the proportion of two tablespoonfuls to half a pint4 ,tartare sauce is mayonnaise with the addition of mustard1 chives1 pickles1 and tarragon1 chopped4 ,as usually served1 it has only mustard and capers or chopped cucumber1 but for those to whom a slight flavor of onion is not disagreeable1 chives should be added4 ,to half a pint of mayonnaise use a teaspoonful of dry mustard mixed with two of tarragon vinegar1 then stir into the sauce4 ,to this add a tablespoonful either of capers or chopped pickled cucumber2 this is the usual ,tartare sauce2 but the ,french recipe is a tablespoonful of very finely chopped chives1 a teaspoonful each of fresh tarragon and chervil in place of the pickles4 ,cold cucumber sauce is mayonnaise with an equal quantity of grated cucumber1 drained1 pressed1 and stirred into it1 with a saltspoonful of salt and a few drops of very strong vinegar4 ,horseradish sauce is a very good sauce for hot or cold beef1 roast or boiled4 ,grate three tablespoonfuls of horseradish fine1 put to it a teaspoonful of sugar1 one of salt1 and one of vinegar1 or a tablespoonful of ,chablis wine2 let them soak an hour or two1 and the last thing before serving stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream that is whipped very solid4 ,a half-teaspoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed with the horseradish1 but that is a matter of taste4 ,when the sauce is to be served hot1 two yolks of egg and two tablespoonfuls of water must be substituted for cream1 which would curdle4 ,the water1 horseradish1 etc41 must first come to the boiling-point1 then the eggs added gradually1 and just allowed to thicken1 not to boil4 ,mint ,sauce4--,take only the young1 tender leaves1 not a bit of stem1 and chop very fine indeed4 ,to two tablespoonfuls add a tablespoonful and a half of brown sugar and three of vinegar4 ,it should be quite thick1 not as we so often see it--vinegar with a few bits of mint floating around4 ,mint ,jelly for masking cold lamb or cutlets4--,take two tablespoonfuls of ,spanish sauce1 and dissolve in it a good teaspoonful of gelatine softened in cold stock1 a tablespoonful of aspic1 and one of thick mint sauce4 ,if no aspic is ready1 it is not worth while to make for the small quantity needed2 a teaspoonful of glaze1 two of gelatine1 and half a wineglass of ,sauterne may be dissolved together to take its place4 ,no gelatine will be needed with the ,spanish sauce in this case4 ,sweet sauces will be left until the desserts are treated of4 ,,vi4 ,,soups4 ,it is not proposed to give the soups to be found readily in most cooking-books in these pages1 but only those less known or of peculiar excellence4 ,it is supposed that the reader understands the making of good beef or veal stock1 and perhaps the usual way of clearing it4 ,but since cooking has been studied scientifically1 improvements on methods have been introduced2 one of these is the clearing of soup with albumen of meat instead of egg4 ,the advantages of this method are that the soup is strengthened and the flavor improved1 while clearing with whites of eggs in the usual way1 though greatly improving the appearance1 tends to lessen the flavor of soup4 ,to clear ,consomme with ,beef4--,consomme is reduced stock1 or stock made of extra strength4 ,carefully remove all fat from three pints of it when cold4 ,it will1 of course1 be a stiff jelly4 ,chop fine an onion1 a carrot1 and a turnip4 ,chop half a pound of lean beef from which all fat is removed2 this is best put through a chopping-machine1 as it must be very fine4 ,put the consomme1 meat1 and vegetables into a saucepan4 ,stir them briskly till just on the boiling-point4 ,remove the spoon1 let the soup boil up well one minute4 ,it should now be clear4 ,take a clean cloth1 fix it on a soup stand or in a colander1 pour boiling water through it1 to warm it thoroughly2 throw the water away1 and pour the soup gently through the cloth twice2 do not press or stir it4 ,it will be beautifully clear and of excellent color4 ,it is now ready to serve for a variety of soups1 named according to what is served in them4 ,consomme a la ,rachel4--,this is consomme to which is added tiny quenelles made in eggspoons1 and colored red1 green1 and black4 ,quenelle meat is made from the uncooked breast of chicken or game1 the backs of hares or rabbits 7or it may be made for certain purposes of fish or very white veal71 first chopped1 and then pounded in a mortar until it is a perfectly smooth paste4 ,mere chopped meat is not what is required2 it must be fine enough to go through a sieve4 ,for ,consomme a la ,rachel1 however1 the breast of chicken is necessary4 ,take four ounces of chicken1 free from skin and sinew2 pound it until quite smooth2 the more it is pounded the better it is4 ,mix with it thick cream1 a scant saltspoonful of salt1 very little pepper1 and half a beaten egg1 until it is a softish paste1 yet firm enough to mould2 mix thoroughly4 ,now try a little by poaching in a teaspoon2 that is1 fill a teaspoon with the mixture1 pressing it in form1 then drop it into boiling water for three minutes4 ,open the quenelle and taste it2 if it is creamy1 light1 and well flavored1 it is right1 but if there is the least toughness1 add a little more cream to the mixture4 ,notice also the seasoning2 if more salt is needed1 add it carefully1 and try again1 till you have the quenelle mixture just right1 that is to say1 creamy1 light1 very tender1 yet keeping its form4 ,at present quenelles as entrees or for soups form such an important part of fine cooking that it is worth while to get the mixture perfect for other purposes than the present4 ,having your quenelle meat ready1 proceed to vary it as follows1 allowing one quenelle of each color to each guest3 ,for the green quenelles use sufficient pounded tarragon to color one third the meat delicately4 ,for the second use sufficient lobster coral pounded to redden it4 ,the third must be made dark with pounded truffles4 ,great care must be taken to keep the three portions separate1 so that one color may not injure the other4 ,to form them use two very small coffeespoons or eggspoons1 as the quenelles should not be larger than small olives2 butter the spoons slightly1 and when formed drop each for one or two minutes into boiling pale-colored stock4 ,drop them1 as they are done1 into cold water1 in which they must be kept until you are ready to use them4 ,when the soup is to be served1 drain them1 lay the number required in the tureen1 and pour the boiling consomme on them4 ,they will not require heating in the soup4 ,it may be observed that raw spinach pounded and rubbed through a sieve1 and boiled red beet1 may be used to color the meat green and red1 and the rest left white4 ,the consomme is then called ,consomme d',orleans4 ,consomme aux ,oeufs files4--,put one quart of cleared consomme to boil4 ,mix one egg1 one dessertspoonful of flour1 one tablespoonful of milk1 a pinch between forefinger and thumb of salt1 and a dust of pepper1 into a batter1 rub a nutmeg once back and forth over the grater1 and stir4 ,when the soup boils1 pass this batter through a fine strainer into it4 ,it should look like threads4 ,consomme a la ,sevigne4--,pound two ounces of breast of cooked chicken until it will pass through a wide sieve4 ,mix with it two eggs1 three tablespoonfuls of milk1 twelve drops of almond essence1 a scant saltspoonful of salt1 as much nutmeg as will go on the end of a penknife blade1 and a dust of cayenne4 ,when well blended1 fill three or four small round muffin pans1 well greased1 and steam slowly twenty minutes1 or until set4 ,turn out very carefully2 let them cool2 then cut them into fancy shapes1 and serve in one quart of boiling consomme4 ,a few asparagus points boiled until just tender1 but not mushy1 are to be dropped in the last thing4 ,potage a la ,hollandaise4--,for this will be required one quart of veal or chicken stock1 two ounces of butter1 one ounce of flour1 four yolks of eggs1 half a pint of cream1 one gill of green peas1 one gill of boiled carrots1 one gill of boiled cucumber1 one teaspoonful of fresh tarragon chopped fine1 one teaspoonful of sugar1 and one teaspoonful of salt4 ,trim the carrots and cucumber with a very small scoop or cutter the size and shape of peas2 cook them just tender1 and no more1 in boiling water4 ,put the stock on to boil2 skim if necessary2 add the salt and sugar4 ,break the eggs into a bowl1 add the cream to them1 and beat them till well mixed4 ,this forms a liaison4 ,make the butter and flour into a paste in a bowl1 pour half a gill of cold stock to it1 then enough hot stock to dissolve it2 when mixed smooth1 stir it into the boiling stock1 let it boil1 then remove from the fire1 and stir in very carefully1 to prevent curdling1 the liaison of eggs and cream2 let it come to the boiling-point1 but not boil1 or it will curdle4 ,strain it into a clean stewpan1 and add the vegetables2 let all get hot together2 then strew in the tarragon4 ,chestnut ,soup 7puree de marrons74--,slit twenty-five large chestnuts at each end1 put them in boiling water1 and boil ten minutes4 ,drop them into cold water1 and remove both the outer and inner skin4 ,melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan1 put in the chestnuts1 and saute 7toss them about7 for a few minutes1 but do not brown them2 then add a pint and a half of rich white stock1 and let the nuts boil in it until very tender1 when they must be rubbed through a fine sieve4 ,boil up again1 add half a pint of cream1 a teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 a teaspoonful of salt 7less if the stock be salted71 and a pinch of pepper4 ,princess ,soup4--,cut a chicken in pieces2 wash it2 butter a stewpan1 put in the chicken with a blade of mace1 an onion1 a bay-leaf1 and twelve white peppercorns4 ,let this simmer1 closely covered1 ten minutes1 shaking it often to prevent its browning2 then put to it two quarts of hot veal stock1 and simmer one hour4 ,put into another stewpan two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter2 stir them together1 and let them bubble once1 then strain the liquor from the chicken to it2 stir well1 and cook a few minutes4 ,take the white meat from the bones of the chicken1 pound it in a mortar very fine1 stir it to the stock1 then rub through a soup strainer2 add just before serving half a pint of fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon4 ,this soup must be made hot1 but not boil1 after the chicken pulp and cream are added4 ,potage a la ,royale4--,boil two ounces of macaroni till tender1 but not broken2 throw it into cold water4 ,put three pints of white stock to boil2 cut the macaroni into lengths half an inch long2 beat three yolks of eggs in a bowl with a gill of cream2 throw the macaroni into the soup2 when it boils1 remove from the fire1 add the cream and eggs and an ounce of grated ,parmesan cheese2 stir till the soup reaches the boiling-point1 but by no means let it boil1 after the cream and eggs are added1 or it will be spoiled4 ,salt soup always in the proportion of a moderate teaspoonful of salt to the quart2 if the stock is seasoned1 only add salt for the cream1 eggs1 etc4 ,use just a suspicion of cayenne4 ,in making soup to which eggs are added1 the utmost care is required1 yet not any more than in making custard4 ,the main point is to let the eggs come near enough to the boiling-point to thicken1 yet far enough from it not to curdle4 ,this a little patience will accomplish by watching and removing the saucepan for a few seconds as the boiling-point approaches1 then returning it2 do this once or twice1 till the opaque1 creamy appearance shows the eggs are done4 ,,vii4 ,,fish ,,entrees4 ,instead of giving recipes for cooking fish whole1 for which excellent directions are to be found in several modern cookery books1 recipes for fish entrees will be substituted4 ,they are now frequently served at the fish course1 and by their convenience and economy1 as well as the variety they afford1 are likely to grow in favor4 ,another point for them is that they can often be made hours before1 and simply heated when needed1 thus relieving the cook of the most critical part of her work at the time when she needs her attention free4 ,some of these entrees will be more suited for breakfast1 luncheon1 or supper dishes than to precede a heavy dinner1 such1 for instance1 as the preparations of oysters when they have been also served before soup2 but the recipes are included here for their intrinsic worth4 ,fillets of ,cod a la ,normande4--,butter a tin dish1 lay on it three slices of cod moderately thick 7an inch to an inch and a half71 pour over them one wineglass of white wine1 place a buttered paper over them1 and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes4 ,reduce another glass of wine in a stewpan by simmering1 add to it half a pint of white sauce1 twelve small oysters1 bearded and blanched1 twelve small quenelles1#fb-99 and twelve button mushrooms4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,simmer one minute only1 or the oysters will harden4 ,place the slices of fish on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over them1 place the oysters1 mushrooms1 and quenelles in groups in the corners of the dish4 ,lobster ,soufflees4--,cut up the meat of a boiled hen lobster into neat dice1 showing as much of the red as possible4 ,prepare as many small ramekin or soufflee cases as may be required by pinning bands of writing-paper round them two to three inches higher than the case4 ,take three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise1 half a pint of stiff aspic jelly1 and a gill of tomato sauce in which a teaspoonful of gelatine has been dissolved4 ,every utensil used must be ice-cold1 the jelly must be quite cold1 but not set4 ,put the tomato sauce1 the jelly1 and the mayonnaise 7which should be left on the ice till the last thing7 into a bowl set in another bowl of pounded ice2 whisk them together until they begin to look white2 then stir the lobster in it1 with a teaspoonful of very finely chopped chervil and tarragon2 fill the soufflee cases1 piling the dressing high2 put them on a dish on ice4 ,when they are set1 carefully remove the paper bands1 sprinkle a little dried and sifted lobster coral over the tops1 and serve4 ,coquilles of ,prawns4--,pick the shells from four dozen prawns2 mix with one third the quantity of mushrooms slightly stewed in a tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt 7the mushrooms must not be brown72 add four tablespoonfuls of ,allemande sauce2#fd-99 fill the shells1 which must be well buttered1 dress each over with fine bread crumbs which have been carefully fried a golden brown2 put them in a cool oven twenty minutes1 only get thoroughly hot1 but not to cook4 ,coquilles of ,salmon or ,halibut4--,take one pound of cold halibut or salmon2 break it into small pieces2 put it in a stewpan with half a saltspoonful of salt and a tiny pinch of pepper1 and half a pint of white sauce1 a tablespoonful of very thick cream1 and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce2 stir well1 and let all get hot4 ,butter some shells1 sprinkle over with a few fried crumbs1 fill with the mixture1 cover with the fried crumbs1 and put them in the oven to get thoroughly hot4 ,serve on a napkin4 ,salmon en ,papillotes4--,cut some slices of salmon into cutlets the right size for serving1 make paper cases to fit them1 then cover each slice with the following mixture3 two tablespoonfuls of salad oil beaten with the yolk of an egg1 one teaspoonful of parsley chopped1 one shallot chopped1 and one anchovy 7all these must be chopped as finely as possible71 a half-saltspoonful of salt1 and a grain of cayenne2 mix1 spread on the fish1 envelop each piece in a well-buttered case1 fasten up 7by pinching the paper well71 and bake half an hour4 ,serve in the papers4 ,fillet of ,sole a la ,normande4--,in speaking of sole1 one of course means the flounder1 which is coming to be called the ,american sole1 and when filleted does make a fair substitute for the real thing1 and it is suitable for cooking in every way that the ,english sole can be used1 except whole4 ,a boiled flounder without filleting1 or a flounder fried whole1 as is so often done with sole1 would be very coarse4 ,fillet two flounders 7in cities this will be done by the fishmonger1 but in the country it may have to be done in the kitchen1 therefore directions for doing it will be appended71 lay the fillets1 neatly trimmed and shaped1 into a thickly buttered pan or dish--either fire-proof porcelain or any other that can go to table--pour over them a glass of sherry and four tablespoonfuls of consomme2 cover with oiled paper1 and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven2 take out the pan1 pour over the fillets half a pint of sauce ,normande2 return to the oven for five minutes1 and serve in the pan4 ,sole a l',horly4--,make a frying batter thus3 mix one tablespoonful of milk with two ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of salad oil to a smooth paste2 then add two yolks of eggs1 and the whites whipped firm1 with a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt2 mix with an upward movement of the spoon1 so as not to deaden the whites of eggs4 ,set it aside while you prepare the sole4 ,mix a tablespoonful of salad oil1 a teaspoonful of ,chili vinegar1 a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar1 a teaspoonful of parsley and one of onion chopped exceedingly fine1 a scant saltspoonful of salt1 and a quarter one of pepper4 ,mix all together1 then cut the fillets in half1 trimming away all ragged appearance1 and lay them for fifteen minutes in the mixture 7called a marinade72 take them out1 drain them on a sieve1 and then dip each fillet in the batter4 ,this batter should be just thick enough to coat the fish and run slowly off1 not cling in a thick paste round it4 ,a ,french rule for testing the thickness of frying batter is to dip a spoon in it and then let a drop run off the end on a plate2 if it drops freely1 yet keeps a beadlike form1 it is right4 ,fry each fillet in a wire basket three minutes in very hot deep fat4 ,serve with fried parsley4 ,turbans of ,sole a la ,rouennaise4--,as these require a little of the same mixture as would be used for lobster cutlets or croquettes1 it is good management to have them when lobster is required for something else4 ,the mixture for the cutlets is made as follows 7less than a fourth of it would be required for the turbans73 remove all the flesh from a boiled hen lobster2 chop it small2 wash1 dry1 and pound the coral1 with an ounce of butter2 take one gill of white sauce1 mix the lobster coral and a tablespoonful of cream with it1 and boil five minutes2 mix in the lobster with a little salt 7unless the lobster is salt enough7 and a grain of cayenne4 ,this made into cutlets1 egged1 crumbed1 and fried1 is excellent1 but our purpose now is to use it for stuffing4 ,take as many fillets of sole as required1 spread the lobster mixture on each1 roll them up1 run a toothpick through them to keep them in shape2 trim till each will stand2 put them on a buttered baking-sheet1 cover with buttered paper1 and bake ten minutes4 ,chop up two truffles1 two hard-boiled yolks of eggs1 and a tablespoonful of parsley1 each chopped separately4 ,take up the turbans1 pour over them half a pint of cardinal sauce1 and ornament the turbans1 one with the truffles1 one with the yolk of egg1 and one with parsley2 so on alternately4 ,directions for ,filleting ,flounders4--,take a sharp knife1 cut away the fins all round the fish1 and split the flounder right down the middle of the back1 then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones1 going towards the edge4 ,you have now detached one quarter of the flesh from the bone2 do the other half in the same way1 and when the back is thus entirely loose from the bone1 turn the fish over and do the same with the other side4 ,you will now find you can remove the bone whole from the fish1 detaching1 as you do so1 any flesh still retaining the bone4 ,then you have two halves of the fish1 and you have four quarters of solid fish4 ,to remove the skin1 take the tail end firmly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand1 hold the skin side downward on the board1 and with your knife make an incision across the flesh1 then1 keeping the skin firmly between your thumb and finger1 push the knife between it and the flesh1 slightly humoring it to prevent tearing the flesh4 ,the skin parts quite easily1 but no attempt must be made to cut the fish from it4 ,,footnotes3 #fb-99 ,see ,quenelles in ,no4 ,,vi4 #fd-99 ,see directions in ,no4 ,,ii4 ,,viii4 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,serving ,,oysters4 ,oysters a la ,villeroi4--,scald 7or blanch7 some large oysters1 dry them1 then drop them into some very thick ,villeroi sauce1#ga-99 let them get hot in it1 but not boil4 ,take them out one by one2 be sure they are thickly coated with the sauce2 have a large dish heaped with sifted crumbs or cracker meal2 as you lift each oyster from the sauce lay it on the meal1 turn it gently over in the meal1 so that a light coat adheres1 and the sauce is by no means rubbed off4 ,place them on an oiled plate where they will get quite cold1 so that the sauce may chill and form a whitish glaze under the crumbs4 ,beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of water1 and when free from strings dip each oyster in the egg1 using a small fork2 let superfluous egg drip off for a moment1 then lay the oyster again on a deep bed of cracker crumbs1 cover well1 pat very gently1 and lay each as you do it on a dish sprinkled with them4 ,fry two minutes in very hot deep fat1 being careful the oysters do not touch each other4 ,if ,i have made these directions as clear as ,i hope1 it will be understood that each oyster has a rich creamy coating under the crumbs1 and every effort must be made to avoid breaking the outer shell of egg and crumb4 ,for this reason the fat should be heated to #djj deg44 ,but although great care in handling is necessary1 they are not difficult to succeed with when that care is given4 ,oyster ,kabobs4--,there are two ways of preparing these dainties1 and ,i give both4 ,for those who cannot eat bacon the first will probably be acceptable4 ,for kabobs of any kind1 silver or plated skewers are proper1 although very slender wooden ones may be used4 ,put in a stewpan a small onion chopped very fine1 a dessertspoonful of parsley1 and a dozen mushrooms1 also chopped2 let these fry one minute in a large tablespoonful of butter1 add a dessertspoonful 7scant7 of flour1 stir all together1 then drop in as many fat oysters as are required2 they must have been blanched in their own liquor and the beards removed2 stir all round1 and add three beaten yolks of eggs1 one at a time1 taking care they do not curdle1 but get just thick enough to cling round the oyster4 ,string six oysters on each little skewer1 basting with the sauce wherever it does not adhere2 let each skewer cool1 then roll the whole in beaten eggs and abundant cracker meal1 so that the skewer will seem to be run through a sausage lengthwise4 ,fry two minutes in very hot deep fat1 serve on a napkin2 allow one skewer to each person4 ,two minutes1 if the fat be sufficiently hot1 will fry oysters a pale yellow-brown4 ,they should never take longer than this1 for oysters harden and shrink if overdone in the least4 ,for this reason the use of a pyrometer1 when possible1 saves mistakes and trouble4 ,such articles as oysters1 smelts1 or any small things1 should be fried at a temperature of #chj deg4 to #djj deg44 ,it must be remembered that all fried articles darken after they leave the frying-kettle1 and therefore a very pale yellow becomes a golden color on the dish4 ,kabobs ,no4 #b4--,this is the recipe given by the author of the well-known ,pytchley ,books1 and is admirable4 ,take the beards from as many fat1 fair-sized oysters as required4 ,you require bacon of which the fat is thick enough through to allow of circles being cut from the slices as large as the oysters4 ,cut the bacon very thin1 get a cutter the size of the oysters1 trim them with it1 then cut eight circles of bacon for six oysters4 ,put first a piece of bacon1 then an oyster1 then more bacon1 on each little skewer1 till there are six oysters with a piece of bacon between each through the centre and one at each end2 string them very evenly4 ,take a very little cayenne on the tip of a knife and a saltspoonful of salt2 mix this with two beaten eggs to which two tablespoonfuls of water have been added4 ,dip each skewer of kabobs in this2 let them drip an instant1 then lay them on a deep bed of crumbs or cracker meal4 ,cover them thoroughly1 shake them1 then dip again into the egg 7if this has become full of crumbs strain it71 and again lay them in the meal4 ,shake lightly again1 and arrange each skewer of kabobs in a frying-basket1 and fry two minutes4 ,i have spoken in the foregoing directions for crumbing of using plenty of meal1 and experience tells me that the rule with those unfamiliar with proper methods is to use so little that a plateful would be considered plenty4 ,with this quantity no good work can be done4 ,you need to turn on to a board or dish at least a quart of crumbs1 or a whole box of cracker meal4 ,this will enable you to smother the article until every part is covered1 instead of sprinkling a little over and under 7which generally falls off as fast as put on1 and leaves a surface yellow with egg in parts71 as you must do if a small quantity only is used4 ,all the meal that is left must be carefully sifted and put away4 ,if the small masses of egg and crumb which will be mixed with it are not sifted out the cracker-meal cannot be used again4 ,there must also be plenty of egg used for dipping4 ,oysters in ,aspic4--,for these dariole moulds are needed1 or the small fire-proof china soufflee cases which imitate paper may be used4 ,a dariole is a small straight-sided tin mould1 holding rather less than a gill4 ,they will be found at large house-furnishing stores1 or a tinman could easily make them1 they being1 in fact1 like deep corn-muffin pans4 ,if they are made to order1 avoid getting them too large--three inches deep by two across will be large enough4 ,fill these moulds with aspic jelly nearly cold1 set them on ice while you prepare the oysters1 which must be bearded and cooked till plump in butter1 but not allowed to color4 ,when cool1 cut them in half1 throw them into some stiff bechamel1#gg-99 which must be warmed till like thick cream1 sprinkle with a dust of cayenne2 lay the oysters to get cold1 that the bechamel may harden on them4 ,scoop the centre very carefully out of the moulds of aspic1 leaving a half-inch thickness all round1 fill the centres with the oysters1 pour in more aspic1 cold1 but not set1 and put on ice for a few hours1 or till ready to serve4 ,the aspic from the centres should have been preserved and used to chop with more to garnish the dish4 ,turn the moulds out very carefully1 and garnish with chopped aspic and watercress or parsley4 ,it is1 of course1 understood that bechamel sauce1 cold1 is like blanc-mange1 and that anything coated with it will be enveloped in white jelly1 not in a sticky white sauce4 ,if bechamel does not become white jelly when cold the stock of which it is made is not stiff enough4 ,lobster in ,aspic is prepared as for salad1 the solid meat cut in dice and rolled in mayonnaise1 then in chopped chervil or parsley4 ,then proceed exactly as for the oysters4 ,oysters a la ,tartare4--,the oyster-shells for serving oysters a la ,tartare must be of good shape and exquisitely clean2 therefore1 when using oysters on the half-shell1 always pick out any that may be deep yet stand well1 and have a good shape2 scald and scrub them1 and keep for use4 ,scald as many fat oysters as required in their own liquor till firm--three minutes at boiling-point will usually do this2 the oysters must be just plump1 yet if underdone they will be flabby4 ,put them on ice1 choose as many tiny leaves as you have oysters from the heart of a lettuce2 they must all be of a size1 or trimmed so1 and the size only just large enough to line the shells without coming over them4 ,lay a leaf on each shell1 cut each oyster in half1 lay four halves in pyramid fashion on the lettuce leaf1 and mask the top of each1 just before serving1 with ,tartare sauce4 ,allow two to each person4 ,,footnotes3 #ga-99 ,see ,no4 ,,ii4 #gg-99 ,see ,no4 ,,ii4 ,,ix4 ,,various ,,culinary ,,matters4 ,this little book does not pretend to go into what may be called the principles of cooking1 except in so far as they are involved in the production of all choice cookery2 and where it is considered that a principle is little known or too little attended to1 the effort will be made to give it emphasis by reiteration here4 ,by principles of cooking ,i mean the simple rules by which roasting1 boiling1 stewing1 etc41 are successfully accomplished4 ,any book or series of articles written a dozen years ago would have been of no real use without these rudiments1 but within that period there have been cooking-schools started and cookery books written so exceedingly exact in directions that it will be unnecessary to repeat them in ,choice ,cookery1 which does not pretend to include family cooking4 ,for this reason the cooking of joints of meat will not be entered into4 ,nevertheless there are certain rudiments of cooking which are not dwelt on usually in books4 ,they are taught in the cooking-schools1 and those of my readers who have had the advantage of attending them will not need the instruction here given4 ,but ,i meet with many women who devote much time to the art of cooking1 and who have taught themselves by book and experiment all they know1 who yet1 when told to chop a small quantity of herbs very fine1 will struggle and chop almost leaf by leaf in their faithful endeavor to carry out the direction4 ,others1 less faithful1 finding their method chops some parts fine and leaves some leaves almost whole1 let it go at that1 with the reflection that that must do1 as it would take all day to get them all one degree of fineness4 ,so1 although it may seem almost too trivial a point to need mention1 we will go into the matter of herb-chopping1 lemon-grating1 etc41 that the simple operations may be performed easily and in a very short time4 ,to ,chop ,herbs4--,use the leaves only1 never the stems2 let them be fresh and crisp1 or1 if wilted1 leave them in water for a time4 ,gather the leaves firmly between the thumb and three fingers of the left hand2 shave them through with a sharp knife as you push them forward under it4 7,the process resembles chaff-cutting by hand machine47 ,turn them round2 gather them up again1 and cut across them in the same way2 then finish by chopping quickly1 holding the point of the knife with the left hand and bringing it down on the little heap of herbs with the right1 always gathering them together as fast as the chopping scatters them4 ,five minutes will chop a tablespoonful of mint or parsley almost to pulp4 ,a sharp steel knife and a small board must be used1 not the chopping-bowl4 ,french books often direct so much fine herbs to be used2 ,english books mean the same thing when they call for sweet herbs1 and a mixture of one part marjoram1 two parts thyme1 and three parts parsley is meant by both4 ,the grating of a lemon is a most simple operation1 and it may seem that every one must know how to do it2 but this is far from being the case4 ,as many dishes of curdled custards and sauces are caused by this fact1 the right way in this case is very important4 ,the object of using grated rind of lemon is to obtain the fragrance and flavor1 which differ very greatly from any extracts1 however good4 ,now the whole of the oil which contains this fragrance is at the surface--is1 in fact1 the yellow portion of the rind2 therefore this1 and only this1 must be removed with the grater4 ,the white part underneath is bitter1 and will cause milk or cream to curdle1 but it contains no particle of lemon flavor4 ,yet when lemon flavor is called for the lemon is often grated right down to the pulp in parts1 while the yellow rind is left on in patches4 ,a lemon should be grated evenly1 beginning at the end and working round it1 using as small a surface of the grater as possible1 to prevent waste4 ,the habit of turning the lemon as you grate comes as easily as to turn an apple under the knife when peeling4 ,generally twice across the grater and back between each turn will remove all the essential oil1 but1 while guarding against grating too deeply1 care must be taken to remove the whole of the yellow surface4 ,a well-grated lemon should be exactly of the same shape as before1 have no deep scores into the pith1 and have an oily-looking surface4 ,perhaps before proceeding to the preparation of the combination dishes known as made dishes or entrees1 a few words may be useful to those readers whose ambition to accomplish results may cause them to defeat their own ends4 ,to such ,i would say1 go slowly2 never attempt the more difficult thing until the simpler one is beyond chance of failure4 ,thus in following the instructions in this book the wiser women will have accomplished1 perhaps1 each week one or two things they may have selected1 and it must not be forgotten the plan of the work is that one recipe shall serve as a key to many others4 ,a great many will very likely have delayed trying to make the sauces until the dish for which they will be required is given4 ,this is a mistake1 because it is less annoying to fail with a sauce with no dish depending on it1 than1 say1 when you have decided to have sole a la ,villeroi1 the soles being ready1 and fail with the sauce4 ,i hope that no failure will come to any one trying the recipes here given1 but in some cases1 especially in sauces thickened with eggs1 a second's diverted attention may cause failure without fault of the cook4 ,therefore it is best to make single experiments when there is no danger of being disturbed1 and when there is nothing else to be attended to4 ,the successful result need never be lost1 for in the case of sauces they can be reheated the next day in a bain-marie1 or pan of hot water2 the same with the soups1 and1 indeed1 most other things1 except soufflees and omelets4 ,but1 above all things1 never try a recipe for the first time the day you wish it to appear perfect on your table2 try it long before1 and if you fail1 make the same thing over again1 reading the directions very carefully2 some trifling caution or precaution may have escaped you4 ,no one ever learns to draw so simple a thing as a circle who is discouraged at the first bad curve1 and leaves it for easier lines4 ,keep on at the thing you select to do until you succeed1 always choosing and perfecting the easiest thing in each class first4 ,x4 ,,entrees4 ,fillet of ,beef4--,this favorite dish with ,french and ,americans may be roasted whole1 or cut so as to serve individually4 ,to roast it whole1 it must be trimmed perfectly round1 and either larded or not as taste may dictate4 ,a fillet weighing four pounds should be roasted three quarters of an hour in a sharp oven4 ,it may then be served a la ,chateaubriand by pouring over it half a pint of the sauce of that name1 with horseradish sauce1 or brown mushroom sauce 7brown sauce with mushrooms added74 ,to serve individually1 fillets are prepared in the following way3 ,cut a fillet into eight slices three quarters of an inch thick2 trim the slices into perfect circles1 all exactly the same size2 flatten them2 put them in a hot pan1 and saute for seven or eight minutes in two ounces of butter2 dress them round a dish1 and pour over them the sauce from which the dish will take its name4 ,filets de ,boeuf a la ,bearnaise4--,serve with half a pint of ,bearnaise sauce4 ,filets de ,boeuf aux ,champignons4--,dress as before2 leave in the centre of the dish room for a mound of stewed mushrooms2 pour over the fillets half a pint of rich brown sauce4 ,serve these dishes as soon as cooked3 the meat is spoiled by waiting4 ,i have received several letters from readers living where lobster is only to be had in cans1 asking if there is no substitute for the coral in making cardinal sauce4 ,canned lobster frequently contains a great deal of coral1 which is as good for coloring and flavoring as the fresh4 ,this can only be known1 however1 before opening1 when the cans are of glass4 ,the pulp of red beet-root passed through a sieve and added to white sauce or mayonnaise gives a beautiful red tint2 but the flavor1 while excellent for a salad or as vegetable sauce1 would be unsuitable for serving with fish4 ,grenadines of ,beef with ,mushrooms and ,poivrade ,sauce4--,take as many slices of fillet of beef1 cut three quarters of an inch thick1 as you require4 ,trim them to a pear shape1 three and a half inches long and three wide at the broadest part4 ,lard these with bacon1 and put them into a saute pan with a gill of brown sauce and a glass of sherry 7half the sauce if there are very few grenadines72 let them cook gently for fifteen minutes4 ,dissolve a piece of glaze the size of a walnut by putting it in a cup which is set in boiling water2 when dissolved1 take up the grenadines1 dish them in a circle1 and glaze them 7a brush is properly used for this purpose1 but the glaze can be spread with a knife dipped in hot water74 ,fill the centre of the circle with a pyramid of small mushrooms mixed with a gill and a half of poivrade sauce4#hh-99 ,fillets of ,beef a la ,grande-,bretagne4--,cut two pounds of fillet into neat slices an inch thick2 slit them 7with a small ,french boning-knife or small penknife7 in such a way that you form a pocket in each the mouth or opening of which is smaller than the pocket itself4 ,this can be done by laying the fillet flat on a board1 laying your hand on the top of it1 making a slit two inches wide1 then with the point of the knife enlarging the slit inside1 but not the entrance to it4 ,the opening should extend half-way through2 into this put a force-meat made of horseradish sauce#hi-99 and macaroni boiled and cut fine4 ,the force-meat must be used sparingly1 so as not to increase materially the thickness of the fillet2 fasten the opening of each with a wooden toothpick4 ,saute these fillets for fifteen minutes2 glaze them as directed in last recipe2 arrange them in a circle1 with a pyramid of tiny potato balls in the centre4 ,pour rich brown sauce round4 ,mutton ,cutlets a la d',uxelles4--,cut some cutlets from the neck of mutton1 leaving two bones to each1 trim very carefully1 remove the upper part of one bone1 split the cutlets without separating them at the bone1 spread some thick d',uxelles sauce#ij-99 inside1 fold the cutlets together1 run a toothpick through them1 and broil for four minutes on each side over a hot fire4 ,have a layer of chopped mushrooms stewed in butter in the dish1 lay the cutlets on it1 pour over some d',uxelles sauce1 and garnish with truffles1 cut in very thin circles4 ,mutton ,cutlets a la ,milanais4--,take six cutlets from a neck of mutton 7,french chops1 many butchers term them71 mix equal quantities of grated ,parmesan cheese and cracker meal4 ,dip the cutlets into rich thick brown sauce1#ij- then into the cracker and ,parmesan2 shake off loose crumbs2 dip them now into beaten egg in which a little salt and very finely chopped parsley and chives have been mixed1 and then dip them a second time in the ,parmesan and bread crumbs2 drop them into a kettle of very hot fat2 in four minutes they will be done4 ,do not fry more than four at a time1 as too many cool the fat4 ,dish them in a circle with spaghetti dressed with ,parmesan in the centre4 ,it seems to me just here that before giving further recipes for fried articles ,i had better make sure that all my readers understand the process of frying in deep fat4 ,i have used the word saute too1 and although no doubt both these processes are familiar to most readers who would be likely to practise ,choice ,cookery1 for those who are not adepts many of the recipes would be impossible to execute4 ,frying1 once understood1 is so easy a process one wonders that so few should excel in it4 ,to those who are not sure of themselves ,i recommend practice4 ,a couple of hours' practice and careful observance of rules will enable a bright woman to fry successfully4 ,for this practice you may prepare several different articles and fry one after the other--one or two very soft and creamy croquettes1 one or two breaded articles1 especially such as are dipped in thick sauce before being crumbed1 etc4 ,the principle on which articles that are very soft and creamy1 underneath the surface of egg and crumbs1 are fried is this3 the creamy substances1 whether rich sauce like d',uxelles and ,villeroi1 or the cream used to mix croquettes1 must always be made of stock that will jelly when cold4 ,the sauce is used warm1 and the articles are put to chill on ice1 so that they are in a jellied condition4 ,now the fat into which they are plunged must be so hot that it sets the coating of egg and crumbs1 which forms a thin shell1 as it were1 before the jelly has had time to melt2 the shell once formed1 the interior cooks in the intense heat very quickly4 ,if the fat were not hot enough1 croquettes would go all to pieces1 and articles coated with sauce would lose the better part of it4 ,to fry1 you require a stewpan or iron kettle2 those called ,scotch kettles are best1 as they set into the range readily4 ,a frying-pan is only useful for sauteing in little fat4 ,articles to be fried must be immersed in fat1 and no frying-pan is deep enough to do this safely4 ,put two to three pounds of clarified dripping or lard into the kettle1 and let it get very hot4 ,this will be after it ceases to sputter--some time after1 perhaps2 but you must now begin to watch for smoke to rise from the centre4 ,have near you some little squares of bread crumb2 drop one in from time to time2 only when it colors immediately is the fat hot enough4 ,at this point no time must be lost1 and your frying begins4 ,of course you will have the articles you intend to fry right at hand4 ,you will also need a large dish1 in which you lay common butcher's wrapping-paper 7often called kitchen paper7 and a perforated skimmer--some like a frying-basket1 and for very small things it is an assistance2 but for croquettes1 cutlets1 etc41 it is not necessary3 they can be laid on the skimmer and dropped in the fat4 ,the easiest and safest way to fry is to use a cooking thermometer 7pyrometers or frimometers they are sometimes called71 and let the fat be #chj deg4 for croquettes1 oysters1 and articles that only require two minutes' cooking2 #cfj deg4 for cutlets and heavier articles4 ,the time required for articles to cook in the frying-kettle seems astonishingly short4 ,for instance1 a breaded chop will be cooked to a medium degree in two and a half minutes1 well done in three minutes2 but it must be remembered the heat is intense4 ,croquettes must never be left longer than two minutes1 while whitebait 7which1 however1 require special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake7 need less than a minute4 ,potatoes require longer than most things2 but the fat need not be cooler at first1 as would seem necessary1 because they are so full of water1 even when well dried1 that they cool the fat rapidly4 ,sauteing 7a word that would be expressive of the process in ,english would be a boon to writers on cooking74--,the process generally meant by frying is really sauteing2 yet so general has been the misconception among all but professed cooks1 that one has to take the precaution in giving directions for frying to say1 ,fry in deep fat4 ,it ought to be understood that to fry is to immerse in hot fat4 ,if some term suitable for kitchen use could be found1 half the difficulty would be over4 ,in old ,english books a very fair translation was used2 they told you to toss the article in butter1 but though it rendered saute jump fairly1 it did not express the process4 ,there is neither tossing nor jumping about it1 unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so2 and as flat frying1 dry frying1 are awkward1 the sooner we boldly take saute into common use1 and let it become a kitchen word as familiar as fricassee 7which surely must have been very unfamiliar once71 the better4 ,to saute--although every ,bridget or ,gretchen fancies she can do it--requires nicety and care to do it well1 and is far more difficult than frying in deep fat4 ,the pan requires to be hot1 also the fat or butter used1 which should cover the bottom of the pan2 a bright fire is required4 ,things that take long to cook require more fat than those that require but a short time4 ,effort must be made to adjust the proportion1 as adding cold fat prevents browning4 ,veal cutlets and many other things are far better sauted than fried4 ,the articles sauted require to be watched that they do not burn2 yet they must not be too often turned1 or they will not brown--except1 of course1 such things as are chopped1 which require frequent stirring up4 ,in speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried1 ,i omitted to give the caution that1 in the case of meats1 care must be taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat4 ,,footnotes3 #hh-99 ,see ,no4 ,,iv4 #hi-99 ,see ,no4 ,v4 #ij-99 ,see ,no4 ,,ii4 #ij- ,see ,no4 ,,iv4 ,,xi4 ,,entrees ,,of ,,mutton ,,cutlets ,,or ,,chops4 ,mutton ,cutlets a la ,duchesse4--,take as many cutlets 7or ,french chops7 as required4 ,stew them in stock1 with a small bouquet of herbs1 very gently until they are perfectly tender4 ,take them up1 skim the stock1 and strain it2 return to a small saucepan1 and reduce the liquid to a glaze2 dip each cutlet in the glaze and lay it aside4 ,have ready what cooks now call a panada1 made of a gill of thick white sauce1 two yolks of eggs stirred into it and allowed to approach the boiling-point1 but not to boil 7this1 of course1 must be done in a double boiler71 or the eggs will curdle2 chop a dessertspoonful of parsley very fine2 parboil and chop also very fine three onions2 pound thoroughly in a mortar eight mushrooms2 stir these all into the thick sauce1 with a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper4 ,roll each cutlet in this force-meat 7if found too stiff to adhere properly1 moisten with a little cream or a little liquor from the mushrooms71 lay them on a fire-proof dish1 and cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter4 ,bake them until they are a golden brown4 ,serve with brown ,soubise sauce4 ,lamb ,cutlets en ,concombre4--,trim and cut six lamb cutlets three quarters of an inch thick1 flatten them a little to make them of equal size and thickness2 flour them1 and saute them in butter five minutes4 ,the fire must be sharp1 because they must be a nice brown on both sides4 ,arrange them round an entree dish1 with a gill of brown sauce poured outside1 and a pint of fillets of cucumber in the centre4 ,to ,prepare ,fillets of ,cucumber4--,cut firm fresh cucumbers lengthwise through the middle1 remove seeds and all soft parts1 cut into inch lengths and into olive shapes all the same size4 ,put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter1 a pinch of pepper1 a saltspoonful of sugar and one of salt1 and let them stew until quite tender1 without acquiring any color4 ,to do this the stewpan must be closely covered and frequently shaken4 ,lamb ,cutlets with a ,puree of ,mushrooms4--,trim and cook and serve the cutlets as in the foregoing recipe1 only in place of the cucumbers make a puree of mushrooms in the following way3 stew half a pint of button mushrooms and part of their liquor in half a pint of white sauce until they are very tender 7taking care the sauce does not burn71 pound them in a mortar1 then force them through a vegetable strainer2 then add enough of the white sauce in which they were stewed to make the puree the substance of very thick cream4 ,cold ,lamb ,cutlets in ,mint ,jelly4--,roast a piece of what butchers call the rack of lamb1 which is really the neck and ribs4 ,let it get cold2 cut from it six cutlets1 which trim just as if they were uncooked2 that is to say1 remove meat and fat from the bone1 and scrape it4 ,mask each of the cutlets in mint jelly#aja-99 warmed enough to be half fluid4 ,arrange very carefully round an entree dish when they are perfectly set1 so that the jelly will not come off4 ,have a ,russian salad in the centre4 ,how to ,prepare the ,salad4--,to prepare this you require two or three small vegetable cutters of pretty shape2 use them to trim carrots1 white turnips1 and cucumbers into small1 attractive forms2 boil these in separate waters till tender2 also green peas1 sprays of cauliflower1 and very tiny young string-beans4 ,throw each vegetable as it is cooked into ice-cold water to keep the color4 ,have some red beet-root boiled before it is cut into shapes4 ,use equal quantities of each vegetable4 ,arrange them with peas in the centre1 and the others in circles round1 studying the effect of color2 then dress1 but do not mask1 them with green mayonnaise4 ,at seasons when materials for ,russian salad cannot readily be obtained the chops may be served with a centre of cucumber salad1 or one made of the small white leaves of lettuce4 ,cutlets ,chaudfroid a la ,russe4--,for this cold dish mutton cutlets are used4 ,they must be of the finest quality1 and from mutton not newly killed4 ,cut as many cutlets as required1 trim1 and scrape the bone4 ,braise for an hour in a moderate oven till the meat is very tender1 remove1 and press between two dishes until they are cold4 ,then trim each cutlet into perfect shape4 ,boil a quart of strong stock 7which already jellies7 down to less than half a pint2 dip each chop into this glaze once or twice1 till they look varnished4 ,you now require a pint of stiff aspic jelly2 turn it out of the bowl1 cut one or two slices a quarter of an inch thick from it1 to be cut into shapes 7or croutons7 with a cutter to garnish the cutlets4 ,chop the rest of the aspic1 lay it round the dish1 and the cutlets against it1 with the croutons of aspic to form the outer edge4 ,the centre must be filled with a ,russian salad1 in this case stirred up with very thick mayonnaise1 instead of being formally arranged4 ,the mayonnaise must be only sufficient to dress the vegetables1 none to run into the other materials1 and beet-root must be added last1 as it discolors the sauce if stirred up in it4 ,,entrees ,,of ,,sweetbreads4 ,sweetbreads a la ,supreme4--,take two plump sweetbreads1 lay them an hour in strong salt and water1 then boil them for ten minutes in fresh water2 put them between two plates to flatten till cold4 ,cut off all the gristle and loose skin from underneath2 put them to stew very gently in half a pint of good-flavored stock4 ,take them up1 drain well1 and stew them in half a pint of sauce supreme1 with a dozen small mushrooms1 for ten minutes4 ,sweetbreads with ,oysters4--,prepare the sweetbreads as in the foregoing recipe1 quarter them1 and put them in a stewpan with a gill of white stock1 the strained liquor from two dozen oysters1 a saltspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper1 and a suspicion of nutmeg4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan over the fire1 stir into it one tablespoonful of fine flour2 let them bubble together1 stirring the while1 one minute4 ,when the sweetbreads have been simmering twenty minutes1 pour the gravy from them to the sauce2 stir quickly till smooth4 ,if thicker than very thick cream1 add a little more stock4 ,in five minutes add the oysters4 ,keep at boiling-point1 but not boiling1 till the oysters are firm and plump4 ,do not leave them in the sauce a minute beyond this1 or they will begin to shrink4 ,take them and the sweetbreads up1 and if the sauce is too thin to bear a wineglass of cream1 boil it rapidly down till very thick2 then skim1 and just before pouring over the sweetbreads stir in a wineglass of thick cream4 ,if it goes in earlier it may curdle4 ,it has been explained before1 but ,i repeat it here1 that there must never be too much sauce1 however good1 to any dish1 and that the consistency is most important3 it must be thick enough to mask a spoon1 yet run from it freely4 ,nothing can be worse than a dab of white mush being served as sauce1 unless it be a quantity of thin1 milky soup floating on every plate4 ,this is where the happy medium must be struck4 ,it is perfectly easy to give exact proportions to produce certain degrees of thickness1 and this has been done in the chapters on sauces2 but where these sauces are used as a medium in which to cook1 for instance1 sweetbreads1 a certain amount of liquid must be added to prevent burning4 ,now it is impossible to say how fast this added liquid will diminish if the simmering is as slow as it should be1 it may lose hardly at all1 in which case the articles stewed must be taken out1 and a few minutes' hard boiling given to evaporate the liquid and bring the sauce back to the proper point4 ,sweetbreads in ,cases4--,prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the foregoing recipes4 ,put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled ham1 half a carrot1 half a turnip1 and a small onion1 all cut small1 and laid as a bed under the sweetbreads2 put in a gill of broth1 a bouquet of herbs1 and half a saltspoonful of salt1 with a pinch of pepper4 ,let them stew1 closely covered1 one hour1 turning them after the first half-hour4 ,when done1 take them up and drain them4 ,when cold1 cover with thick d',uxelles sauce2 sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs4 ,make two rough paper cases1 butter each liberally1 and very carefully lay each sweetbread in one1 crumbed side uppermost4 ,put them in a quick oven till pale brown4 ,have ready proper sweetbread cases1 slip them neatly into them1 and serve4 ,these are excellent cold1 in which event they should not be shifted from the rough case until ready to serve4 ,,footnotes3 #aja-99 ,for recipe1 see ,no4 ,v4 ,,xii4 ,,on ,,the ,,manner ,,of ,,preparing ,,croquettes1 ,,cutlets1 ,,kromeskies1 ,,rissoles1 ,,and ,,cigarettes4 ,although these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from one mixture1 there is a difference in the manner of using it which ,i will here explain4 ,croquettes are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till firm enough to mould1 then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried in very hot fat4 ,cutlets are the same 7of course fancy cutlets are meant1 not the ,french chops1 so called71 only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet1 with a little bone inserted2 or1 in the case of lobster cutlets1 a small claw is used to simulate the chop bone4 ,many only stick a sprig of parsley where the bone should be1 to keep up the fiction4 ,kromeskies are rolls of the same mixture enveloped in very thin slices 7hardly thicker than paper7 of fat larding pork2 a small toothpick holds the pork in place4 ,the rolls are then egged1 crumbed1 and fried4 ,rissoles are the same thing1 only rather easier to prepare1 being rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork4 ,cigarettes1 the newest variation of the favorite entree1 and most dainty of them all in appearance1 are thin rolls of croquette mixture 7or1 better still1 quenelle meat7 not thicker than a small cigar4 ,these are rolled in pastry1 thoroughly deadened1 pinched very securely1 and fried a very pale brown4 ,as the manner of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of meats1 fish1 or game1 varying only in flavor--a little wine1 a little onion1 or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases--,i will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets2 chicken1 game1 or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads1 naming them accordingly4 ,the ham may always be omitted where the flavor is objected to4 ,for those who like it1 it adds very much to sweetbreads1 but would be out of place with game1 which should depend on its own individual flavor4 ,cutlets of ,sweetbreads4--,soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water for an hour--longer if there is much blood about them2 then cook them half an hour in stock4 ,drain them and let them get cold4 ,trim off all superfluous fat and gristle2 chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham to each pair of large sweetbreads1 and half a can of mushrooms1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 the sixth of one of pepper4 ,put an ounce of flour in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter2 stir them together over the fire until they bubble2 then add a half-pint of liquid consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream2 stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce2 mix the sweetbread mixture with the sauce4 ,the mixture should be a soft1 creamy mass1 not in any way so stiff as sausage-meat1 or so as to remain in a heap without spreading2 when poured on a plate1 it should be of a consistency that will slowly settle1 yet there must not be any liquid whatever4 ,on this question of consistency depends the quality of the croquettes1 cutlets1 etc41 made from it4 ,if too stiff1 they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash ball4 ,what you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork4 ,success in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the minced meat with a sauce made of very stiff jelly in the proportion of half a pint of liquid 7the melted jelly and cream7 and one ounce each of flour and butter4 ,this will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms1 or rather less of dry meat1 such as the breast of chicken1 veal1 etc4 ,i dwell on this point because this class of entrees is always popular1 and if the consistency is once well understood1 success is certain to follow4 ,when the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates1 a piece of buttered paper should be laid over them1 and then they should be placed on ice until quite firm4 ,when ready1 cut small pieces of the mixture1 make them into shapes as nearly resembling a ,french chop as you can1 using a very little cracker meal should they stick to your hands4 ,have before you a large dish of cracker meal and the yolks of two eggs beaten with two small tablespoonfuls of water1 cover each cutlet thoroughly with egg1 then with meal1 gently patting them to make the meal adhere2 insert anything you please to represent the bone 7turkey ribs may be boiled white and kept for this purpose74 ,cutlets require to be dropped into very hot fat1 and taken up within two minutes4 ,consult directions for frying in former chapter4 ,sweetbread croquettes are simply made into cork or pear shapes1 never large1 instead of cutlets4 ,when the white meat of chicken replaces half the sweetbread1 they are called ,cutlets1 or ,croquettes1 a la ,reine4 ,make no attempt to mould croquettes or cutlets until the mixture is firm enough to cut2 then handle very quickly1 make into proper forms1 finish them either as cutlets or what you wish1 and let them remain in a cold place for an hour or two before cooking2 this last direction may not be always possible1 and to an expert is not necessary1 but when time can be given the amateur should always plan to do it4 ,but though in experienced hands it is possible 7though not so easy7 to make croquettes and fry them as soon as breaded1 do not be led to believe that you can dispense with putting the mixture on the ice the first time4 ,i remember a young lady who was very proud of her croquettes telling me she never found it necessary to chill the mixture2 she could secure perfect shape without4 ,i asked to see the process1 and decided in my own mind that she must go widely from the directions1 and have her material as stiff as hash2 but ,i found she solved the difficulty in a different way3 she simply worked in quantities of cracker meal1 using it like flour4 ,of course the croquettes were spoiled1 although it was true they kept their shape1 and ,i do not think the young lady realized at all that she was changing and impoverishing the preparation altogether4 ,braised ,sweetbreads4--,take a pair of sweetbreads1 lay in salt and water for an hour1 then blanch4 ,press slightly between two dishes2 when cold1 remove all skin1 fat1 and gristle2 cut up very fine a small carrot1 a turnip1 and an onion2 put them in a stewpan with the sweetbreads1 pour over them a pint of stock1 lay a piece of buttered paper over them1 and braise carefully for half an hour4 ,take them out of the stewpan1 put them in a small meat-pan1 boil the liquor rapidly a couple of minutes1 then baste the sweetbreads with it several times2 put them in a quick oven to brown2 serve on slices of fried bread1 pour half a pint of ,spanish sauce round1 and garnish with mushrooms4 ,tartlettes of ,chicken4--,cut six ounces of the breast of a cooked chicken into very small pieces1 chop up one truffle1 twelve mushrooms1 and two ounces of lean boiled ham2 stir them into a gill of white sauce4 ,butter thickly nine dariole moulds1 line them neatly with quenelle meat1#aad-99 of which you will require half a pound1 fill the centre carefully with the mixed chicken1 cover the top carefully with quenelle meat1 and steam for twenty minutes2 dish on a circle of spinach1 pour bechamel sauce over and round1 fill the centre of the dish with peas or mixed vegetables4 ,chicken a la ,hollandaise4--,take out the breast-bone of a large young fowl1 and fill the space with the following force-meat3 half a pint of fine bread-crumbs1 an ounce and a half of butter1 a small boiled onion chopped1 and a dozen oysters cut into small pieces2 a saltspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper2 bind together with an egg1 sew up the fowl1 and truss for roasting4 ,make a nice batter1 as for fine fritters1 and when the fowl has been in the oven half an hour1 pour part of the batter over it2 when dry and beginning to brown1 pour more1 until it is thickly coated and a nice brown2 baste often2 cut up the chicken1 and serve with ,allemande sauce and lemon4 ,,footnotes3 #aad-99 ,see directions in ,no4 ,,iv4 ,,xiii4 ,,patties4 ,the directions for making one kind will serve for patties generally4 ,in cities the cases are very easily bought1 but where they have to be made at home1 only one who is already an expert in making puff-paste should attempt them4 ,patties when served as an entree should be quite small1 or half of them will certainly be left on the plates4 ,roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick for each patty1 cut three circles from it1 moisten the surface of two very slightly with water1 place one on the other1 then with a sharp penknife cut a circle nearly through the third round1 leaving a margin of one third of an inch2 lay this round carefully on the other two2 brush the top with white of egg 7be sure not to touch the sides71 and bake in a very quick oven4 ,patties must be watched1 and turned if they show signs of rising unevenly4 ,when they are a fine yellow-brown take them out1 and leave five minutes for them to cool slightly1 then with a penknife or a boning-knife carefully remove the top formed by the smaller circle you marked1 and which 7if the paste was very light and the oven in good condition7 will probably have risen out of the centre4 ,be careful in handling these covers1 for while warm they are very brittle4 ,with a coffee-spoon remove the half-cooked dough from the centre of the patty1 taking care1 however1 to leave sufficient thickness of inner crust to prevent the sauce from oozing through4 ,the filling for patties can be made before it is needed2 but when that is done1 it must be made quite hot before it is put into the cases1 as1 if it were put in cold1 the pastry would burn before the inside became warm4 ,dresden ,patty ,cases4--,these make a very pretty kind of patty when puff-paste is not to be had1 and even when it is are a desirable variety4 ,they are made from fine light baker's bread4 ,cut slices an inch and a half thick1 then with a biscuit cutter about two inches in diameter cut circles from these slices1 and with another cutter1 a size smaller1 press half-way through each4 ,you will now have pieces of bread the size and shape of patties4 ,beat four eggs2 mix with a pint of milk and a saltspoonful of salt2 pour this into a shallow pan1 and stand the bread patties in it4 ,the amount of milk and eggs must of course depend on the number of patties2 the proportion named is enough for six small ones4 ,the patties must remain steeping until they are thoroughly soaked2 they must be carefully turned upside down when the lower part is sufficiently steeped4 ,the time required will depend on the quality of the bread1 but one hour will generally suffice4 ,the bread must be thoroughly penetrated by the custard1 be almost as moist as mush1 yet be in no danger 7with careful handling7 of breaking4 ,when sufficiently steeped1 take each one on a cake turner and lay it on a drainer4 7,they may be prepared some hours before they are needed for cooking47 ,when quite drained1 baste each one carefully with beaten egg till every part is coated1 then smother it in cracker meal4 ,gently pat it to make it adhere1 then slip the patty on to a dish till you are ready to fry4 ,do not attempt to move the patties with the hand or a spoon1 but with a flat skimmer or cake turner4 ,when prepared as directed1 make three pounds of lard very hot in a deep frying-kettle1#aai-99 place three of the patties on a fine wire frying-basket1 and fry brown4 ,the fat should be excessively hot1 as the patties1 being full of cold custard1 will not burn1 and will rapidly cool it4 ,they should be a delicate brown in six or seven minutes4 ,let the fat come back to the original intense heat before putting in the other patties4 ,when they are fried1 remove the centre you marked with the smaller cutter with a sharp thin knife and small teaspoon1 leaving the sides about half an inch thick4 ,they are now ready to fill4 ,if the patties are just right1 the inside you remove should be of a custard-like texture1 not like sopped bread3 indeed1 in eating them1 the bread should not be easily detected4 ,these patties are very delicious filled with any of the usual fillings1 or1 for dessert1 with stiff preserve4 ,they have no covers1 consequently the filling should be piled high without allowing the sauce to run over1 and garnished with parsley or water-cress4 ,sweetbread ,patties4--,soak two very white sweetbreads in salt and water one hour2 parboil for twenty minutes2 then let them cool2 remove the skin1 fat1 and gristle2 cut them into half-inch dice1 and lay them aside while you prepare the following sauce3 ,put a gill of strong white stock into a small saucepan with a gill of mushroom liquor 7and a dozen small mushrooms cut in four if approved7 to boil4 ,in another saucepan cook an ounce of flour and one of butter together1 stirring till they bubble2 pour the two gills of stock quickly to it1 and stir till smooth4 ,season with half a teaspoonful of salt and very little pepper2 lay in the sweetbreads1 and let them stew twenty minutes4 ,strain them off from the sauce1 which boil down 7stirring constantly to prevent burning7 till very thick2 then add a gill of thick fresh cream4 ,the sauce should now be thick enough to mask the spoon very heavily2 pour it over the sweetbreads1 and stir together4 ,this is now ready for filling the patties4 ,if mushrooms are not liked they may be omitted1 the liquor replaced by a gill of stock and a teaspoonful of white wine4 ,oyster ,patties4--,take a dozen and a half ,blue ,points1 scald them in their own liquor1 but do not leave them a moment after they reach the boiling-point2 strain the liquor from them2 cut each oyster in four4 ,put a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a small saucepan over the fire1 stir them together until they bubble2 then pour to them half a pint of the strained liquor of the oysters1 or part liquor and part stock4 ,stir continually1 and let the sauce boil very thick2 then lay in the oysters1 and simmer half a minute4 ,the amount of seasoning required will depend on the saltness of the oysters1 but a saltspoonful of salt will probably not be too much1 a little pepper1 and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies--just enough to make the sauce a delicate salmon-color4 ,for the last thing1 stir in one small teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,the consistency of the sauce for all patties should be that of very thick double cream4 ,when it is not thick enough1 it can always be reduced by boiling down1 taking care not to boil the meat or oysters1 etc41 in it4 ,chicken ,patties4--,take the breast of a boiled chicken1 cut it into dice2 use half a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to make the sauce4 ,put this broth in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of lean boiled ham chopped a little 7take care there is not a particle of the outside of the ham1 or it may impart a smoky flavor72 let the ham simmer in the broth while you melt together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter2 when they bubble1 and the broth has been boiled down to about one half1 strain the latter into a half-pint measure1 fill up with cream1 and stir this quickly to the flour and butter4 ,when the sauce is thick and smooth1 put in the chicken2 keep the mixture at boiling-point five minutes1 then set the saucepan in another of boiling water1 and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs2 only just let them thicken2 then remove from the fire1 and use for filling the patty cases4 ,a teaspoonful of sherry is often added to the sauce4 ,if this filling is not used while hot1 it must be reheated in a double boiler and watched1 or the eggs will curdle2 or the filling may be prepared and the eggs added after it is reheated4 ,bouchees of any kind are simply patties made very small indeed--for this reason the filling is always chopped instead of being cut into dice4 ,the essence of anchovy mentioned is a most useful sauce for fish1 and can be bought at any large grocery4 ,,footnotes3 #aai-99 ,see full directions for frying in ,no4 ,x4 ,,xiv4 ,,entrees4 ,in an earlier chapter ,i gave directions for quenelles as an adjunct to soups and for garnishing4 ,used in this way1 they are only a revival of an old ,french fashion1 coarsely imitated in the benighted days of ,anglo-,saxon cookery by the ,english force-meat balls4 ,lately1 however1 not only are quenelles a great feature in high-class cookery as additions to made dishes1 but they are a most fashionable and delicious entree1 and replace with great advantage the too-frequent croquette4 ,to prepare quenelle meat for entrees4 ,mode ,no4 #a4--,to make quenelle meat1 a mortar is indispensable1 as it must be pounded to a pulp that will go through a sieve1 and ,i have known a persevering woman grate the breast of chicken on a large grater1 but this is very slow work4 ,take the white meat from a large1 young1 uncooked chicken1 and remove all skin1 fat1 and sinew4 ,melt together over the fire a scant tablespoonful of butter and one of flour2 when they are thick and smooth1 stir in a gill of boiling water quickly4 ,this should now be a thick paste2 put it away to cool4 ,take half as much butter as you have of chicken1 and half the quantity of paste 7technically called panada7 that you have of butter4 ,put the paste into a mortar2 pound it well2 add the butter2 pound again till smooth2 add the chicken1 cut up very small1 and pound until the whole forms a smooth pulp4 ,add one whole egg and the yolks of three1 the third of a saltspoonful of white pepper 7salt must depend on whether the butter seasons sufficiently74 ,work all well together1 stir in half a gill of thick cream1 and pass the whole through a wire sieve4 ,put the whole on ice to get firm4 ,the quenelles should be about the size of a small egg flattened2 shape with two tablespoons dipped in flour4 ,have ready a frying-pan with boiling water in which is a saltspoonful of salt1 lay each quenelle carefully in1 and poach for ten minutes4 ,the water must boil very gently4 ,drain on a sieve2 serve with mushroom or tomato sauce4 ,have a little dried parsley and grated tongue or ham1 and scatter alternately on each quenelle4 ,mode ,no4 #b4--,one pound of lean veal cutlet2 pound it thoroughly in a mortar2 then rub it through a sieve1 or it may be forced 7after it is pounded7 through a vegetable strainer4 ,steep a pound of bread crumb in tepid water2 wring it in a cloth to get rid of the moisture2 put it in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch of salt4 ,stir it over the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and forms a smooth paste4 ,place it between two plates to cool4 ,this is called bread panada4 ,put into a mortar twelve ounces of the prepared veal1 six ounces of fresh butter1 and eight ounces of the panada4 ,pound all well together2 mix in gradually one whole egg1 two tablespoonfuls of thick cream1 and the yolks of four more eggs1 a scant teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter-saltspoonful of pepper4 ,when this is all pounded into a smooth1 compact mass1 put it into a bowl and place it on ice until required for use4 ,mould and poach as described in last recipe4 ,great care is required in cooking quenelles1 as if they are overdone they become tough2 ten minutes is enough for those the size of a small egg4 ,before moulding the whole1 poach a small one1 break it open1 and ascertain if it is smooth1 light1 yet firm4 ,they should melt in the mouth4 ,if they are at all tough1 add a little more cream to the mixture1 unless the toughness comes from over-boiling1 which you must guard against4 ,very elaborate quenelles are made with a core of dark meat1 made by chopping up ham1 tongue1 or truffles very fine1 and inserting it in the centre while forming the quenelles4 ,always serve quenelles with tomato1 mushroom1 or rich ,spanish sauce4 ,dish in a circle1 and fill the centre with spinach1 green peas1 or a macedoine of mixed vegetables4 ,the mode of preparing all quenelles is by one of the two methods just given1 but they may be made of any kind of game1 or the backs of hares or rabbits4 ,quenelles of salmon1 lobster1 or other fish must of course be served with appropriate fish sauce4 ,timbale of ,chicken a la ,champenois4--,chop a small slice of lean boiled ham1 weighing about two ounces1 put into a saucepan with four chopped mushrooms1 four truffles1 and an ounce of butter2 stir in a moderate dessertspoonful of corn-starch and half a pint of stock and a gill of sherry2 let this slowly simmer until reduced to one half4 ,skim off the fat1 then stir in the finely chopped breast of a large chicken or of two small ones1 six small pickled gherkins1 a sprig of parsley1 and six anchovies which have been soaked in milk4 ,make all hot over a slow fire1 but do not let them boil4 ,line a mould with light puff-paste1 pour the mixture into it1 and bake one hour2 turn out and serve very hot4 ,garnish with fried parsley4 ,scallops of ,chicken a la ,perigord4--,this dish may conveniently be made when the white meat of chicken is required for other purposes4 ,bone the legs of two large chickens2 take half a pound of veal1 a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork2 pound both in a mortar1 then pass through a sieve2 add to this two tablespoonfuls of minced tongue1 six truffles1 and half a dozen button mushrooms1 the yolks of two eggs1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and a very little cayenne4 ,mix well4 ,stuff the legs of the fowls with this4 ,sewing them up neatly1 wrap each up in buttered paper2 put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a carrot1 turnip1 and small onion cut up2 add three quarters of a pint of brown stock4 ,put the stewpan in the oven1 baste well1 and cook gently one hour4 ,when cooked1 have ready a mound of spinach4 ,take a very sharp knife1 cut the legs in slices so as to make circles like slices of sausage2 strain off the gravy4 ,cook together a dessertspoonful of butter and flour2 when they bubble1 pour the strained gravy to it1 with a gill of sherry and a little salt and pepper2 stir till smooth2 boil till as thick as cream4 ,dress the scallops of chicken in a circle round the spinach1 pour the sauce round all1 and insert bits of truffle and of tongue between the scallops4 ,chicken ,souffle4--,pound three ounces of the white meat of cooked chicken as fine as possible2 mix with it half a pint of cream and three well beaten eggs1 a few button mushrooms finely chopped1 a saltspoonful of salt1 a sixth of one of pepper1 a dust of cayenne1 and a speck of powdered mace4 ,pour the mixture in a well-buttered mould1 tie a cloth over it1 and steam it half an hour4 ,it must stand quite upright in the steamer4 ,turn out on a hot dish1 and pour any rich brown sauce preferred around it4 ,this souffle may be made of sweetbreads1 or half and half4 ,if individual souffles are preferred1 butter as many dariole moulds as the mixture will fill2 lay at the bottom of each something by way of garnish--a little star or disk of tongue or ham for some1 of truffle for others1 of green gherkin for others--so that when turned out the top of the souffles will show spots of color4 ,half fill the moulds1 and steam twenty minutes4 ,souffles of all kinds depend for excellence on being served the moment they are ready1 and on the steam being kept up all the time they are cooking4 ,when baked the oven must be very steady4 ,fritot of ,chicken4--,take a cold chicken1 cut it into small neat joints1 season rather highly with salt and pepper1 strew over them a small grated onion 7or one very finely chopped71 and a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,cover them with oil1 and then squeeze over them the juice of a lemon4 ,turn the pieces now and then1 and let them remain until they have absorbed the flavor4 ,meanwhile make a batter of four tablespoonfuls of flour and about eight of milk1 or as much as will make a thick smooth batter2 stir into it a wineglass of brandy and an egg1 the whole beaten to a high froth4 ,leave this batter in a warm place an hour before using1 dip the pieces of chicken into it1 and fry in very hot1 deep fat4 ,serve piled high on a dish garnished with fried parsley4 ,,xv4 ,,entrees4--,continued4 ,cigarettes a la ,reine4--,these are the newest development of the rissole and croquette4 ,they require strict attention to details to secure perfect form4 ,roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick2 prick it all over--this is to deaden it2 roll it now till it is no thicker than cartridge-paper4 ,cut it with a sharp knife dipped in flour into strips about two inches and a half wide and about the length of a cigar2 lay on each strip a roll of chicken quenelle meat that is very firm1 and the roll not thicker than a lady's slender forefinger2 be careful that the meat reaches nearly the whole length of the paste1 yet leaves a margin for closing1 as the least oozing will spoil the appearance4 ,moisten the edges of the paste all round with white of egg2 fold the paste over half an inch2 be very careful to see that it adheres thoroughly2 then pinch the ends4 ,roll them gently with a cool hand on the floured board to round them without pressure1 taper off the ends cigar fashion4 ,if they are softening1 lay them on a floured plate on ice to get firm2 then roll them in egg and very finely sifted cracker meal4 ,you may roll or improve the shape1 if there is any irregularity1 while crumbing them4 ,remember what you aim to imitate is a cigar4 ,the great danger for the first time is getting them too large2 they must therefore be very slender4 ,fry in deep fat just as rissoles2 serve on a napkin1 log-house fashion4 ,these dainties1 as will have been seen1 have a large amount of butter1 and soften in a warm room2 they must therefore be made in a cold room1 and if set on ice some hours before cooking will be much easier to fry without bending or twisting4 ,cigarettes a la ,chasseur are1 as the name indicates1 made of game1 in exactly the same way as the last recipe4 ,lobster ,quenelles4--,prepare with bread panada as directed for quenelle meat4 ,poach and drain them4 ,then dish in a circle with thick ,hollandaise sauce in the centre and round them4 ,chicken1 ,turtle ,fashion4--,this requires a pullet or young hen about six months old4 ,bone the bird2 stuff with a force-meat made of four parts minced veal1 two parts chopped hard eggs1 a half part lean boiled ham1 two parts mushrooms1 and two parts pate de foie gras4 ,first make the veal and ham hot in a little butter1 then add the mushrooms and foie gras2 moisten with stock or mushroom liquor1 and gently simmer five minutes4 ,stir in two beaten yolks of eggs and a teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,season with a saltspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of white pepper1 and a tiny pinch of nutmeg1 grated4 ,stuff the fowl with this mixture2 sew it up with trussing-needle and string2 turn the skin of the neck half over the head1 and cut off part of the comb1 which gives the appearance of the turtle's head4 ,scald and skin four chickens' feet2 cut off the claws1 and insert two where the wings ought to be and two in the thighs1 so as to look like turtles' feet4 ,put in a stewpan a tablespoonful of chopped boiled ham1 an onion1 and a small carrot cut up1 with a tablespoonful of butter2 let them brown very slightly1 add half a pint of stock1 skim it1 lay the fowl in this stock1 and stew gently for an hour and a half to two hours1 or even longer1 according to size4 ,when quite tender take up the fowl1 cut and remove the string with which it is sewn1 lay it on its back on a dish1 garnish the breast with sliced truffles cut in fancy shapes1 place a crawfish tail to represent the turtle's tail4 ,when eaten hot serve veloute sauce4 ,this is an excellent dish cold garnished with aspic4 ,baked ,ravioli4--,four ounces of veal1 six ounces of butter1 three ounces of lean sausage-meat1 a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs1 a little salt and pepper4 ,pound all in a mortar2 when smooth1 pound separately a gill of spinach that has been boiled till just tender without losing color1 and a quarter of a pound of cream cheese or rich cottage cheese1 which must be squeezed in a cloth to remove all the milk4 ,when smooth1 pound all together1 and stir in the yolks of two eggs4 ,make some pastry with half a pound of butter1 three quarters of a pound of flour1 and the yolks of two eggs2 mix stiff1 and roll till about as thick as a fifty-cent piece4 ,cut the paste in two parts4 ,take a medium-sized biscuit-cutter1 mark half as many circles on one half the paste as you wish ravioli4 ,lay in the centre of each circle a mound of the force-meat--perhaps a large teaspoonful1 only be careful to leave a quarter-inch margin all round4 ,moisten this margin with a camel's-hair brush dipped in white of egg2 lay the second half of the pastry over these mounds2 press the cutter on each to trim them1 and you have a number of little round patties2 press the edges together very well by curving the little finger round them4 ,have some rich stock boiling in a stewpan2 poach the ravioli five minutes4 ,take them up1 drain them well1 arrange them in a fire-proof gratin dish1 sprinkle them over with grated ,parmesan cheese1 pour in a very little stock1 and bake brown in the oven4 ,veal ,cutlets a la ,primrose4--,take a pound of veal cutlet2 cut it up into small cutlets the size of a dollar1 and perfectly round4 ,put two ounces of butter 7which has been first melted to let the curd separate7 into a saucepan1 with three onions1 two ounces of bacon cut into small dice1 a bouquet of herbs 7including bay-leaf74 ,fry1 stirring frequently1 for a quarter of an hour1 then add a tablespoonful of corn-starch1 a dessertspoonful of ,tarragon vinegar1 and a pint of strong stock4 ,let all simmer very gently for about one hour4 ,take up the cutlets1 strain the gravy and pour it over them1 then sprinkle with a tablespoonful of grated tongue1 and the same quantity of parsley dried and crumbled small4 ,chicken may also be cooked in this way4 ,quails a la ,lucullus4--,this1 as its name implies1 is a most expensive and luxurious way of serving these dainty birds1 yet by management the livers of chickens may be saved a day or two by scalding them1 and the opportunity taken when several are required for general use during a week4 ,bone very carefully six or eight quails4 ,cut up three ounces of unsmoked bacon1 put it in a saute pan1 let it cook five minutes1 then add the livers1 a shallot sliced1 a small bouquet1 twelve white peppercorns1 six cloves1 a saltspoonful of salt4 ,let all cook carefully ten minutes3 nothing must burn or get very brown4 ,when cooked1 pound well in a mortar1 pass through a sieve1 then add three truffles chopped2 stuff each quail into shape1 butter some paper cases known as quail cases1 put a quail into each case1 a few drops of olive oil on each breast4 ,then put them in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour4 ,for the gravy1 put the bones of the quails in a stewpan1 add a tablespoonful of glaze and a gill of brown sauce1 with one tablespoonful of water4 ,simmer till the gravy is well flavored from the bones1 then strain1 and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles and half a gill of sherry4 ,put one tablespoonful of this sauce over each quail before sending it to the table1 after very carefully draining all grease from the quails4 ,these are served in the papers1 but rough paper cases may be made to bake them in1 and the regular crimped ones set in the oven to get hot just before dishing up4 ,slip the quails into them after draining4 ,quails a la ,jubilee4--,bone as many birds as required4 ,lard them with pork and thin strips of truffles4 ,stuff them in shape with equal parts of sweetbreads and oysters1 sew them up2 roll them in buttered paper1 and cook in the oven in enough ,chablis to cover them4 ,pound some boiled potatoes and water-cresses together until thoroughly blended2 put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with one of milk2 put in the potato1 stir round till quite hot2 use this to make a border on which to serve the quails4 ,when they have cooked fifteen to twenty minutes1 take them up1 glaze them 7melt glaze in a cup standing in hot water1 and brush them over74 ,lay them on the potato border1 and pour into the centre some ,spanish sauce with mushrooms in which has been boiled a slice of lemon4 ,,xvi4 ,,entrees4--,continued4 ,pigeon ,cutlets4--,take half a dozen young pigeons1 split them down the back1 and bone them1 all but the leg1 cutting off the wings at the second joint4 ,cut each bird in two down the breast2 trim off all ragged edges1 so that each half-bird has as much as possible the appearance of a cutlet1 the leg serving for the bone4 ,saute these cutlets1 having seasoned them with pepper and salt1 for three minutes in hot butter1 then put them in the oven for five minutes4 ,when done1 press between two plates till cold4 ,then mask each cutlet with a thick puree of tomatoes and mushrooms in which aspic jelly has been mixed1 equal parts of each4 ,let them be put on ice to stiffen the masking4 ,roll in fine cracker meal1 then dip into well-beaten egg1 again into the meal1 and then place them in a saute pan with very hot clarified butter1 and cook them a fine golden brown4 ,dish up on a border of mashed potatoes browned with grated ,parmesan2 serve mushrooms in the centre and ,spanish sauce all round4 ,pigeons a la ,tartare4--,the pigeons should be trussed for broiling2 flatten well with a rolling-pin without breaking the skin1 season them with pepper and salt1 dip into clarified butter and cover with very fine crumbs or cracker meal4 ,broil them carefully1 turning often4 ,make a sauce of a scant tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley1 a shallot1 two spoonfuls of pickled gherkins1 and a boned anchovy4 ,mince all finely and separately4 ,squeeze over them the juice of a lemon2 add half a tablespoonful of water and six of oil1 and a little pepper4 ,mix all very well1 and just before serving rub in a teaspoonful of dry mustard4 ,put the sauce into the dish1 lay the pigeons over1 and serve4 ,compote of ,pigeons4--,for any dish of pigeons except roast or broiled1 wild birds may be used in place of tame4 ,their flavor is far finer1 and if not perfectly young1 which is the main objection to the use of wild birds1 the preparation remedies the defect4 ,cut four ounces of lean unsmoked bacon into pieces1 and fry five minutes4 ,split the pigeons in half1 skewer each half as neatly as possible with tiny skewers1 so that they will not sprawl when dished2 flour and season them lightly1 and fry a nice brown on both sides2 add one small carrot1 one small turnip1 two sticks of celery1 one shallot1 six mushrooms--all cut small2 add a bouquet garni and three gills of rich stock2 let them all simmer very slowly in a stewpan for one hour1 or longer if the birds are not young4 ,simmer together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter2 pepper and salt 7quantities depend on whether the stock be seasoned72 stir constantly1 and when they begin to change color pour a gill of brown stock to it1 stirring well2 remove from the fire4 ,take up the pigeons1 strain the gravy1 then stir in the brown thickening you have made2 boil up1 skim off all fat1 then return the birds2 let them get thoroughly hot1 but not boil4 ,serve on a border of mashed potatoes1 pour the gravy round and over them1 and fill the centre with peas or spinach4 ,souffle of ,partridges4--,clean and cook two partridges2 remove the breasts and best of the other flesh without skin or sinew4 ,take two ounces of rice cooked till very tender1 pound them together in a mortar with one ounce of butter and a gill and a half of glaze melted1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and a sixth of pepper4 ,pound until the whole can be forced through a strainer1 then add the beaten yolks of four eggs1 and last of all the whites of two beaten till they will not slip from the dish2 stir them very lightly into the mixture4 ,pour it into a silver souffle case1 or into a number of the small china cases4 ,bake till it rises1 and then serve immediately with a tureen of rich brown sauce4 ,this souffle can be made of any kind of cold bird or fish4 ,the four eggs are given for medium-sized partridges4 ,salmis of ,snipe4--,clean and roast lightly six snipe1 saving the trail4 ,when done let them get cold1 then cut them up and remove the skin1 and lay them in a buttered stewpan2 pound the trimmings and bones in a mortar1 and put them into a stewpan with two shallots1 a clove1 a bouquet of herbs1 and half a pint of claret2 let this simmer until reduced to one half4 ,then add three quarters of a pint of ,spanish sauce4 ,let these very gently simmer for half an hour1 skimming frequently2 strain through a fine sieve1 and return to the stewpan4 ,if it is not thick enough to coat the spoon1 reduce a little more4 ,pour this sauce over the snipe in the saute pan1 and let it get hot without boiling2 pile the pieces in a pyramid2 meanwhile chop the trail1 mix with half the quantity of pate de foie gras and a little salt and pepper2 spread this on croutons1 bake1 and use them to garnish the snipe4 ,fillets of ,teal with ,anchovies4--,remove the breasts from a pair of teal after they have been three parts roasted4 ,take care to preserve each half breast in good shape4 ,lay these fillets seasoned in a china fire-proof dish which has been well buttered and strewed with grated ,parmesan2 split two anchovies1 remove the bone4 ,wash and dry the four halves1 lay one on each fillet of teal1 moisten with a gill of fish stock1 sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated ,parmesan cheese1 lay small pieces of butter over1 and bake in the oven fifteen minutes4 ,the last thing before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over all4 ,rabbits are so little cared for in this country that it may seem useless to give recipes for using them4 ,there are probably two reasons for the low estimate in which rabbit is held here4 ,one1 that as they are offered in market they are skinny1 miserable animals4 ,yet there are parts of the country where they attain a good size1 and a fine plump rabbit may compare favorably with fowl for many purposes4 ,indeed1 ,english epicures use it in preference for mulligatawny4 ,the second reason1 and probably the one that is the real reason1 for the difference in taste is because1 being so lightly esteemed1 no care is ever given to the preparation of them4 ,on the chance that some reader may feel inclined to test the possibilities of the native rabbit1 and its claims to a place in choice cookery1 ,i give two or three recipes1 each admirable in its way4 ,rabbits should be used quite fresh1 and cleaned and wiped dry as soon after they are killed as possible4 ,grenadines of ,rabbit a la ,soubise4--,take the whole backs of two rabbits from the shoulders to the thighs1 both of which you reject2 cut away the ribs and the thin part that forms the stomach1 leaving only the backbone with solid flesh each side2 divide this into sections1 about two joints to each4 ,lard them1 and then braise for one hour4 ,stand them in a circle1 and pour over and round them a pint of brown ,soubise sauce4 ,fillets of ,rabbit with ,cucumber4--,half roast a rabbit1 then remove the solid flesh from each side the backbone in long fillets4 ,cut two cucumbers and one ,bermuda onion in thin slices1 salt them1 and let them drain4 ,lard the fillets of rabbit1 season them1 and lay them in a stewpan1 with a pint of white sauce slightly thinned with white stock1 the cucumber1 and the onion4 ,let them simmer for half an hour4 ,lay the fillets in a circle1 and put the cucumber and onion in the centre1 the sauce1 which should be thick enough to mask them1 over the fillets4 ,fried sippets garnish this dish4 ,a ,civet4--,for this dish the dark-fleshed rabbit1 or hare1 as it is often called1 is best4 ,cut it into meat joints2 cut half a pound of unsmoked bacon into slices1 and fry in a saucepan2 then lay in the hare1 and saute for fifteen minutes4 ,pour off the fat4 ,add half a pint of port-wine1 a bouquet garni1 and a dozen mushrooms1 and a little pepper and salt2 let this simmer gently one hour2 then add a pint of brown sauce and twenty button onions which have been blanched4 ,simmer for another half-hour4 ,remove the bouquet1 add a gill of stewed and strained tomato1 half a gill of glaze1 and a tablespoonful of ,chutney4 ,serve in a pyramid1 pour the gravy1 after it is well skimmed1 over the whole1 and garnish with fried croutons4 ,timbales d',epinard4--,make some quenelle meat of chicken or veal according to directions already given1 and mix with puree of spinach1 prepared as follows1 until it is a nice green2 pick and wash some spinach1 put it into salted boiling water1 and boil fast for fifteen minutes4 ,drain and press it1 then beat it through a wire sieve2 return to the saucepan with two ounces of butter2 pepper and salt2 stir till well mixed4 ,stir a gill of cream to the quenelle meat1 then use enough of the spinach to give it a fine light-green color4 ,when well mixed1 butter some dariole moulds2 nearly fill them4 ,then dip your finger in cold water and press a hole in the centre of each to the bottom2 fill it with a puree of ham1 and then put a coating of quenelle meat over1 and steam twenty minutes4 ,puree of ham is prepared as follows3 pound lean boiled ham in a mortar with some stock that has been boiled down to half glaze2 rub through a wire sieve4 ,if too stiff1 moisten with a little more melted glaze4 ,,xvii4 ,,cold ,,entrees1 ,,or ,,chaudfroids4 ,these elegant dishes are suitable for formal breakfasts1 luncheons1 and suppers1 and while presenting an unusually attractive appearance1 are easier to manage than less elaborate dishes1 because they can usually be prepared1 all but garnishing1 the day before4 ,although in giving the recipes meat cooked for the purpose will always be directed1 and for formal purposes no care or expense should be spared1 the intelligent reader will see where she may make a very pretty dish by utilizing cold fowl1 game1 or lamb for any simple occasion4 ,sweetbreads au ,montpellier4--,parboil a pair of fine white sweetbreads1 after soaking them in salt and water an hour4 ,let them get cold between two plates under slight pressure4 ,cut them into the form of cutlets 7cutlet cutters are to be obtained at the fashionable ,new ,york hardware stores1 and at the large ,french tin-shops down-town74 ,have some firm aspic jelly not quite set2 dip each cutlet in it2 chop some aspic that is hard and cold roughly2 form a circle of it2 arrange the cutlets on this2 fill the centre with asparagus heads2 pour mayonnaise round1 and garnish with fancy shapes of aspic1 red and white alternately4 ,red aspic is colored with pulp of the red beet stirred into it while liquid and then strained out2 green is produced by spinach4 ,the various shades of amber1 shading into rich brown1 that are so effective when tastefully mingled1 are due to caramel coloring4 ,when colored aspic is required for garnishing1 pour off a little into separate vessels1 and color each as required4 ,chicken ,salad a la ,prince4--,cut the white meat of cold fowl into neat fillets1 using a very sharp knife1 so that there may be no ragged edges4 ,mask each piece with a mixture made as follows3 ,one tablespoonful of finely minced capers1 two of minced boiled ham1 three hard-boiled eggs1 an anchovy boned and washed1 and two sardines freed from skin4 ,all these must be well pounded1 then rubbed through a sieve2 add a teaspoonful of finely minced tarragon and chives4 ,stir all into a tablespoonful of mayonnaise and one of aspic1 semi-fluid of course4 ,when each fillet has been well coated with the mixture and has set1 line a border mould with aspic jelly1 ornament the fillets of chicken with little strips of beet-root and cucumber arranged like a trellis-work4 ,place them very carefully round the mould on the layer of aspic1 then pour in a little more aspic1 until the border mould is full1 and set it on ice4 ,when about to serve have a dish well layered with the small leaves of lettuce4 ,drop the mould for one minute in warm water1 and turn out on to the lettuce4 ,fill the centre with a salad composed of cucumber cut into dice1 peas1 string-beans cooked until tender 7for this purpose the canned ,french string-beans serve admirably1 being beautifully cut ready74 ,pour over the centre salad some thick mayonnaise4 ,where mayonnaise makes too rich a dish for the digestion1 bechamel sauce may be substituted for masking1 but never for salad2 for instance1 two very simple chaudfroids of chicken may be made as follows3 ,chaudfroid of ,chicken1 ,no4 #a4--;,cut up a young fleshy chicken into neat joints1 remove the skin1 mask each piece carefully with bechamel sauce2 when quite set arrange on chopped aspic in a circle1 garnish with strips of cucumber and beet2 cut the remainder of the cucumber and beet into neat pieces1 and stir into a gill of mayonnaise1 and use for the centre4 ,this and all salads should be lightly seasoned before the mayonnaise is added1 or they are apt to taste flat4 ,chaudfroid of ,chicken1 ,no4 #b4--,prepare the chicken as in last recipe1 only before masking the joints season the bechamel well with finely chopped tarragon2 leave out the mayonnaise and aspic4 ,pile up the pieces of chicken on the entree dish1 and garnish with ,roman lettuce1 or1 if that is not to be had1 the hearts of ,boston lettuce4 ,chicken and ,ham ,cutlets4--,boil a young fowl with a good breast in clear stock2 take it out1 let it get cold2 cut the breast into rather thin slices4 ,the bones1 skin1 and trimmings may be thrown back in the stock1 which can be boiled down to make both the bechamel and aspic for the dish 7see recipes71 or be kept for other purposes4 ,take the slices of chicken and some very well cooked lean ham that is cut so thin you can see the knife under the slices4 ,melt a little bechamel sauce1 that must be like blanc-mange1 pour it on a plate1 and before it has time to cool cover the plate with the slices of chicken4 ,dip the ham into the stock 7if it has been boiled down to jelly1 otherwise into melted aspic71 lay the ham over the chicken1 then more thin slices of chicken4 ,now cover the whole by means of a spoon with more bechamel2 when all this sets1 which1 as your sauce has only been half melted1 it will do quickly1 you have a large white cake about half an inch thick4 ,cut this cake into small pieces 7unless you have a cutlet cutter71 as like a cutlet in form as possible1 using a sharp penknife or boning-knife4 ,take up each carefully1 and with the end of a silver knife or small spoon cover the edges with the bechamel sauce1 which must be nearly set for this purpose4 ,to garnish the cutlets1 cut some tiny green leaves from pickled gherkins1 and red ones from the skin of a red pepper-pod1 and place two of each in the centre of each cutlet1 star-shaped2 a touch of white sauce will make them stick2 place a speck of parsley not larger than a pin's head in the centre4 ,stick a tiny lobster claw three quarters of an inch long at the narrow end of the cutlet1 and place them in a silver dish round some aspic of a bright amber color1 chopped4 ,put a very small sprig of parsley between each cutlet4 ,i may here remind the reader that when aspic or bechamel is used for masking or for pouring into a mould as lining1 etc41 it must not be made hot1 only softened in a bowl set in warm water1 just enough to be free from lumps4 ,it must1 of course1 be stirred from the moment it begins to soften4 ,the mould to be lined should be turned about till it is well coated1 and if there is a disposition to run off the sides1 roll it round in ice4 ,for instance1 when the first layer of bechamel is poured on the plate as directed in last recipe1 it must be moved about until quite covered1 yet very thinly4 ,if it sets too soon1 hold the bottom of the plate over steam4 ,reed-birds in ,aspic4--,take the back and breast bone from a dozen birds1 splitting them down the back first4 ,save the feet4 ,make a force-meat of pate de foie gras and panada in equal proportions2 season highly1 spread the inside of the birds1 sew them up as nearly in shape as possible2 bake seven to ten minutes1 then dip them into glaze2 put a little pale aspic in a dozen dariole moulds1 enough to cover the bottom a quarter of an inch1 and when just set put in a bird breast down2 set on ice a few minutes1 then pour in aspic to cover the bird a quarter of an inch4 ,put on ice4 ,turn out1 and on the top of each strew pistachio nuts chopped very fine4 ,insert the two feet of the bird1 scalded and dried1 to stand up from the centre4 ,chaudfroid of ,reed-birds4--,prepare as in last recipe with pate de foie gras force-meat4 ,butter a dozen dariole moulds4 ,put a bird in each1 breast downward2 put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little water1 and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes2 when cold1 turn out the birds1 wipe them1 dip each in brown chaudfroid sauce1 and put them on a dish to cool4 ,when cold1 lay them in rows against a pile of chopped aspic4 ,brown ,chaudfroid ,sauce is made by putting a pint of ,spanish sauce1 a gill of cream1 half a pint of aspic jelly together1 and boiling them until they are reduced one quarter4 ,skim constantly1 and strain for use4 ,white ,chaudfroid ,sauce is simply bechamel and aspic treated in the same way4 ,it differs1 of course1 from plain bechamel in having the piquant flavor of the aspic2 in appearance there is little difference4 ,,xviii4 ,,cold ,,entrees4 ,iced ,savory ,souffle4--,this dish can be made of fish1 game1 or chicken1 but is considered best made of crab4 ,cut up the crab1 or whatever it may be1 into small pieces2 let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three hours4 ,have some well-flavored aspic jelly1 half liquid2 whip it till it is very frothy2 put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be served in--a silver one is most effective2 then place a layer of crab well seasoned1 and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the dish is nearly full2 place a band of stiff paper round1 and fill in with whipped aspic2 set it on ice for two hours2 take off the paper1 and serve4 ,savories4--,within the last few years1 which may1 perhaps1 be called the renaissance of cooking in ,england1 since ,kettner1 in his ,book of the ,table1 shows that in the ,middle ,ages that country was famous for its cuisine1 while ,france was still benighted--within the last few years1 then1 there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations called savories4 ,they vary very much1 from the tiny little bouchette of something very piquant1 to be taken between courses as an appetizer--which1 ,i believe1 was the original idea--to quite important dishes suitable as entrees for formal breakfasts or suppers4 ,but it is with the original savory as a piquant mouthful that they will take their place in this book4 ,so important a part have they come to play in ,english menus 7,i am not now speaking of simple dinners7 that the invention of a new savory is something to be proud of1 and it is said that the very best are invented by the bons vivants themselves1 seldom by the chef4 ,one lady has written a book of which savories is the only branch of cooking treated1 and she says in her preface1 ,savories being at present so fashionable1 and novelties in them so eagerly inquired for1 ,i have been induced to publish a small book on the subject4 ,in looking over any list of small savories we find many of our old friends in it1 such as cheese canapes1 angels on horseback1 anchovy toast1 etc4 ,with these familiar dainties we will have nothing to do1 only the mention of them will serve to show that any little piquant morsel may be used as an appetizer served as hors d'oeuvres4 ,the ,savage ,club ,canapes4--,these must be made small enough not to require dividing--in other words1 can be eaten at one mouthful4 ,cut slices of stale ,vienna bread a quarter of an inch thick1 stamp out from them with a very small cutter circles about the size of a fifty-cent piece4 ,saute these in a little hot butter till they are a very pale brown4 ,lay them on paper when done1 to absorb grease4 ,stone as many small olives as you have guests2 fillet half as many small anchovies--that is to say1 split them1 and remove the bones and scales2 wash them1 dry them1 and roll each one up as small as possible1 and insert it in an olive in place of the stone4 ,now trim one end of the olive so that it will stand2 then put a drop of thick mayonnaise on the centre of one of the rounds of fried bread1 which1 of course1 must be quite cold2 stand the stuffed olive on it neatly1 and put one drop of mayonnaise on the top1 to cover the opening in the olive4 ,a variation1 and ,i think an improvement1 on this bouchee1 is to use a little softened aspic to attach the olive1 and a small quantity finely chopped to crown it4 ,still another plan is to put a tiny disk of bright-red beet on the top1 using aspic to cement it there4 ,canapes a la ,bismarck4--,cut circles with a small cutter from slices of stale bread a quarter of an inch thick2 saute in butter till they are a light brown2 spread over each when cold a thin layer of anchovy butter2 curl round on each an anchovy well washed1 boned1 and trimmed2 sprinkle very finely shred olives over them4 ,anchovy butter is two parts butter and one of anchovy paste4 ,caviare ,canapes4--,cut some slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick2 cut disks from them with a small round cutter2 fry them pale brown in butter4 ,when about to use them chop a large handful of water-cress leaves very fine1 taking care to press them in a cloth to remove all water before you begin to chop2 when they are almost as fine as pulp1 mix with them an equal amount of butter2 when well blended1 spread each canape with it1 and spread a layer of caviare on the top4 ,prawns en ,surprise4--,cut some small rounds of bread and butter1 not more than two inches in diameter and a quarter inch thick4 ,peel some prawns2 steep them in mayonnaise sauce a few minutes2 place three on each round of bread-and-butter1 with a small piece of water-cress on each4 ,place over all some whipped aspic jelly2 strew lobster coral over them4 ,prince of ,wales ,canapes4--,take some fine prawns1 three anchovies1 two gherkins1 and two truffles4 ,bone the anchovies and wash them1 peel the prawns1 and then cut all the ingredients into very small dice4 ,make a sauce as follows3 ,bruise a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a mortar with a tablespoonful of salad oil1 a saltspoonful of mustard2 mix with this an anchovy and a teaspoonful of tarragon that has been scalded and chopped2 pound all well together1 and pass through a sieve with a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a speck of cayenne2 mix enough of this with the prawns1 etc41 to season the mixture4 ,salt1 it will be observed1 is not mentioned1 because the anchovies and prawns may be salt1 but this can only be known to the cook by tasting4 ,butter some small water biscuits 7crackers71 put a small teaspoonful of the mixture on each1 and cover with finely chopped aspic4 ,garnish by putting a spot of green gherkin on one1 a spot of red beet on another1 and on a third one of truffle1 and so on alternately4 ,shrimp ,canapes4--,fry some rounds of bread as directed for other canapes4 ,make some shrimp butter by pounding equal quantities of shrimps1 from which heads1 tails1 and shells have been removed1 and fresh butter till they form a smooth mass2 spread the fried bread with it4 ,place whole shrimps on the top in the shape of a rosette1 in the centre of which put a tiny pinch of chopped parsley4 ,cheese ,biscuits a la ,st4 ,james4--,take three tablespoonfuls of the finest flour1 half a pound of cream curds1 and five ounces of ,brie cheese1 which has been carefully scraped1 and a pinch of salt2 pound all in a mortar2 add five ounces of softened butter and three eggs1 to make a very stiff paste1 which must be rolled very thin1 and cut into round biscuits4 ,bake in a very quick oven1 and serve hot4 ,kluskis of ,cream ,cheese4--,take half a pound of fresh butter1 six eggs1 six tablespoonfuls of cream cheese1 a pinch of powdered sugar1 salt1 and sufficient grated bread crumbs to make a paste1 adding cream if it crumbles2 mix well together1 and roll into small balls2 poach them in boiling water until firm 7no longer74 ,serve hot1 with a spoonful of poivrade sauce on each4 ,cold ,cheese ,souffles4--,grate one and a half ounces of ,gruyere cheese2 the same of ,parmesan4 ,whip half a pint of cream and a gill of aspic jelly to a high froth2 stir in the cheese2 season with salt1 cayenne1 and made mustard to taste4 ,fill little paper baskets or very small ramequin cases1 grate cheese over the top1 and set on ice to get firm4 ,the above mixture may be frozen just as you would ice-cream1 but very firm1 then cut out in little cubes1 and serve on canapes of fried bread2 it is then called ,croutes de ,fromage ,glace4 ,oysters a la ,st4 ,george4--,take the beards from two dozen oysters2 put the melt 7or soft roe7 of two ,yarmouth bloaters into a saute pan with two ounces of butter2 dry and flour the oysters1 and saute them with the melt4 ,have some squares of bread fried a nice light brown2 place a nice piece of the melt on each square1 and an oyster on top2 squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on each1 and serve very hot4 ,allumettes4--,for these fantastic little trifles you require anchovies preserved in oil--not in salt2 they are found at all ,italian groceries and at the larger ,american grocers'4 ,wipe them free from scales and oil2 cut each into long1 thin strips4 ,have ready some plain pastry rolled very thin2 envelop each strip of anchovy in pastry2 pinch closely1 so that it will not burst open1 and fry in very hot fat for a half-minute1 or saute them in butter till crisp and yellow4 ,serve log-house fashion1 using two allumettes for each crossing instead of one2 put fried parsley in the corners1 and serve very hot4 ,eggs a la ,st4 ,james4--,take as many eggs as you have guests1 and boil them hard in buttered dariole moulds2 the moulds must be large enough to hold the egg when broken into it1 but not much larger4 ,when quite cold remove the eggs2 slice off the white at one end of each1 taking care to preserve the shape4 ,scoop out the yolk2 mix this with a teaspoonful of chopped truffles1 a little pepper and salt1 and put it back very neatly into the whites4 ,coat the eggs with aspic jelly several times4 ,serve them upside down1 that is1 the uncut part upward4 ,put a spoonful of half-mayonnaise 7mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream7 on each1 and a few specks of chopped truffle4 ,a variety of this dish has anchovy paste in very small quantity in place of truffle1 and the mayonnaise just made pink with it4 ,,xix4 ,,galantines1 ,,ballotines1 ,,etc4 ,galantines are so useful and handsome a dish in a large family1 or one where many visitors are received1 that it is well worth while to learn the art of boning birds in order to achieve them4 ,nor1 if the amateur cook is satisfied with the unambitious mode of boning hereafter to be described1 need the achievement be very difficult4 ,experts bone a bird whole without breaking the skin1 but to accomplish it much practice is required2 and even where it is desirable to preserve the shape of the bird1 as when it is to be braised1 or roasted and glazed for serving cold1 it can be managed with care if boned the easier way4 ,however1 if nice white milk-fed veal can be obtained1 a very excellent galantine may be made from it1 and to my mind to be preferred to fowl1 because1 as a matter of fact1 when boned there is such a thin sheet of meat that it but serves as a covering for the force-meat 7very often sausage-meat71 and although it makes a savory and handsome dish1 it really is only glorified sausage-meat1 much easier to produce in some other way4 ,this is1 of course1 not the case with turkey2 but a boned turkey is so large a dish that a private family might find it too much except for special occasions4 ,on the other hand1 galantines of game1 although the birds may be still smaller1 are so full of flavor that it overwhelms that of the dressing4 ,the following process of boning1 however1 applies to all birds4 ,to accomplish the work with ease and success1 a ,french boning-knife is desirable1 but in the absence of one a sharp-pointed case-knife may do4 ,place the bird before you1 breast down1 with the head towards you4 ,cut a straight line down the back through skin and flesh to the bone4 ,release with the left thumb and forefinger the skin and flesh on the left side nearest to you1 and with the right hand keep cutting away the flesh from the bone1 pulling it away clear as it is cut with the left hand4 ,when you reach the wing joint cut it clean away1 leaving the bone in the wing1 and continue cutting with the knife close to the bone until all the meat from the left breast is released4 ,return to the back and continue to separate the meat from the bone1 always keeping the edge of the knife pressed close to the latter1 until the leg is reached2 twist it round1 which will enable you to get the skin over it1 and cut the joint from the body bone4 ,proceed with the right side in the same way1 using your left hand for cutting and your right to free the meat 7to some this would be very awkward1 and when it is so turn the bird round74 ,the bird will now be clear of the carcass4 ,lay the bird flat on the board1 inside upward1 then cut out the wing-bone and proceed to the legs2 cut the meat on the inside of each thigh down to the bone and clear the meat from it1 cutting it each side until you can lift the bone out2 then free the drumstick in the same way4 ,if it be intended to stuff the bird in form1 it would be necessary to bone the leg and wings from the inside1 but for a galantine it is useless trouble1 as they are to be drawn inside the bird4 ,spread out the bird1 having drawn legs and wings inside1 season with a teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper mixed together1 and rubbed over the flesh1 which must have been made as even as possible by cutting the thick parts and spreading them over the thin ones4 ,if there are any bits of meat clinging to the bones they must be carefully gathered together and chopped with a pound of veal and two ounces of lean cold boiled ham1 with four ounces of fat1 sweet1 salt pork4 7,butter may be substituted if pork is objected to74 ,when all is chopped as fine as sausage-meat1 season rather highly with pepper and salt4 ,spread a layer an inch thick over the bird2 then add some long strips of tongue1 some black truffles cut into dice half an inch square1 and a few pistachio nuts4 ,dispose these1 which may be called the ornamental adjuncts of the galantine1 judiciously1 so that when cut cold they will be well distributed4 ,cover carefully with another layer of force-meat1 fold both sides over so that the force-meat will be well enclosed1 form it into a bolster-shaped roll1 tie it up in a linen cloth securely with string at each end1 and sew the cloth evenly along the middle1 so that the shape will keep even4 ,put it into a stewpan with stock enough to cover it1 two onions1 two carrots sliced1 a stick of celery1 a small bunch of parsley1 a dozen peppercorns1 an ounce of salt1 and the bones of the bird1 well cracked4 ,let it simmer gently for three hours and a half4 ,take it up1 strain the liquor1 and let the galantine get nearly cold4 ,take off the cloth2 wring it quite dry2 put it on again1 rolling the galantine as tight as possible2 tie firmly1 and place it on a platter2 cover with another platter1 and place a heavy weight upon it to press it into shape4 ,let the stock get cold4 ,take off the grease4 ,add a half-teaspoonful of sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon to the stock1 and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze1 that is to say1 a jelly firm enough to cut into forms without being tough4 ,clear with white of egg in the usual way1 and when quite transparent pour part into shallow dishes1 leaving enough to cover the galantine4 ,color one dish a rich clear brown2 leave the rest light4 ,when the jelly thickens1 but is not quite set1 cover the galantine with it half an inch thick4 ,when the jelly is cold1 cut it into what are called croutons1 which may mean vandyked strips1 to be laid across1 triangles1 squares1 or any fancy shapes2 the pieces and trimmings are chopped to scatter over the dish or lay in small piles round4 ,ballotines are small galantines made by treating small birds as directed in last recipe1 only that the force-meat should have a larger proportion of truffles1 and be made of the same kind of bird2 for instance1 grouse would have rich force-meat of grouse4 ,one grouse1 however1 would make two or four ballotines2 quails make two1 to be served as individuals4 ,galantine of ,breast of ,veal4--,bone a breast of young white veal very carefully1 spread it out as flat as possible on the board1 pare the meat at the ends for about an inch so that the skin may project beyond4 ,take all the scraps of meat that may have come from boning1 provided they are not sinewy2 take also twelve ounces of veal cutlet1 and half the quantity of fat unsmoked bacon4 ,chop very fine1 seasoning all rather highly4 ,when the meat is fine1 season the inside of the veal4 ,mix with the force-meat tongue1 truffles1 and pistachio-nuts or olives1 all cut into half-inch dice 7the tongue larger74 ,so mix these that they will come at regular intervals through the stuffing4 ,roll the breast round the stuffing1 which is not spread1 but laid in a mass1 and sew the veal together4 ,fasten it up in a cloth1 tie securely at the ends1 then tie bands of tape round at intervals to keep it in shape4 ,braise this galantine for six hours in stock1 which may be made of a small knuckle of veal and the bones and trimmings4 ,vegetables as directed for chicken galantine4 ,let the galantine be cold before it is untied4 ,garnish and glaze as directed for chicken4 ,galantine is occasionally made of sucking pig1 and is very popular in ,france4 ,the pig must be carefully boned1 all but the head and feet4 ,a sufficient quantity of veal1 of fat unsmoked bacon1 and of bread panada must be chopped and pounded to make enough force-meat to stuff the pig in the proportion of one part bacon1 two panada1 and three of veal1 seasoned with a teaspoonful of onion juice and two of powdered sage4 ,the pig's liver must have been boiled in stock1 and cut in dice4 ,there must be fillets or strips of rabbit or chicken1 a few chopped truffles and olives4 ,mix well4 ,lay in the fillets as you stuff the pig1 and when full sew up the opening4 ,try to keep the shape as near as possible4 ,then braise slowly for four to five hours1 as directed for galantine of veal4 ,do not remove the cloth till it is cold4 ,,xx4 ,,how ,,to ,,fillet4--,,cold ,,game ,,pies4 ,i have spoken several times of filleting4 ,to some readers an explanation of the term may be necessary4 ,to cut up a bird does not indicate the meaning1 nor does the term to carve it do so1 because to carve means to cut up or divide with an exact observance of joints and cuts4 ,filleting1 when applied to anything without bones1 as the breast of a bird or boned fish1 means to cut into very neat strips that are thicker than slices2 but when you are directed to fillet a grouse or a chicken1 it is intended that you should cut it into small neat portions regardless of joints and without the least mangling of it2 therefore a very sharp knife must be used1 and either a small sharp cleaver or a large cook's knife only to be employed when a bone has to be cut through4 ,to ,fillet ,cooked ,birds3 ,grouse1 ,pheasants1 or ,poultry4--,cut the bird in half straight down the middle of the breast-bone1 using a large sharp knife for the purpose4 ,lay each half on the table and take out the breast-bone from either side4 ,if the bird is a large fowl1 duck1 or partridge1 each breast will make three fillets1 and leave a good piece with the wing1 but average birds only make two breast fillets4 ,chop off the pinions within an inch of the meat1 then cut the wing in two neatly2 drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat1 and divided into two fillets 7if a large chicken or duck2 leave game whole72 cut the thigh in two also4 ,trim very neatly2 leave no hanging skin2 indeed1 when filleting for chaudfroids the skin should be entirely removed1 and both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies4 ,when possible1 it is better not to use the drumsticks4 ,from a chicken they make an admirable devil1 and from game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich gravy2 so it is no waste to discard them4 ,cold pies are of two kinds3 the one cooked in a terrine or dish without pastry2 the other in what the ,english call a raised paste1 and the ,french a pate chaude4 ,those with paste--which is seldom eaten--are far handsomer1 but do not keep so well--that is to say1 they must be eaten within three or four days even in winter2 while in a terrine carefully kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three weeks4 ,on the other hand1 the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make4 ,proceed as follows3 ,game ,pie4--,make some force-meat thus3 ,fry a quarter of a pound of fat ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal4 ,take the ham up before it gets brown1 as you do not need it crisp2 when the veal is cooked take that up also1 and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan1 put in half a pound of calf's liver cut up in dice1 if not1 saute it in butter4 ,in sauteing all these they must be often stirred1 as you want them well cooked and yet not very brown4 ,when done they must be finely chopped1 then pounded in a mortar1 with a small teaspoonful of salt1 and half a saltspoonful of pepper4 ,then add a dozen mushrooms chopped1 and mix the whole4 ,a game pie is usually made rather large1 and the greater variety of game used1 the better2 partridge1 pheasant1 grouse1 hare1 all help one another1 but at least two kinds are necessary4 ,it must be boned and neatly filleted into small joints4 ,put on all the bones and trimmings to stew in three pints of water1 with a good-sized carrot1 onion1 a stick of celery1 a small bouquet1 a clove1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 one of salt1 and a little pepper2 boil all this until the bones look white and dry when out of the stock4 ,strain1 and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze2 put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom of the dish1 then one of boned game1 with a sprinkling of pepper and salt1 and either a little finely chopped parsley or1 what is far better1 a few thin slices of truffles2 pour over a little of the reduced stock2 fill the dish in this way to within an inch of the top2 make a plain flour-and-water paste1 lay it on the pie1 and make a hole in the centre1 bake slowly in a pan of hot water4 ,when cold1 remove the paste1 cover the top with chopped aspic1 fold a napkin1 and serve the terrine on it1 with a wreath of parsley round the base4 ,game pie is not a dish to be eaten at one or even two meals 7unless very small71 therefore the aspic must be fresh each time it is served4 ,french ,method of ,making a ,game ,pie or ,pate ,chaude4--,make a paste of two pounds of flour and one of lard or butter1 with salt to taste and about half a pint of water2 knead it into a smooth1 rather hard paste2 put it into a damp napkin for an hour4 ,butter a raised pie dish--a tin one that opens to release the pie--line it with the paste rolled half an inch thick1 letting it come half an inch above the dish2 line the inside of the paste with buttered paper1 bottom and sides1 and fill with rice or corn meal2 cover with another piece of buttered paper1 wet the top of the pastry all round1 and lay a cover of thin pastry over it2 trim very neatly1 make a hole in the centre1 and ornament with leaves cut from the paste and laid on2 the under side should be slightly moistened to make them adhere4 ,brush the surface with well-beaten egg1 and bake about an hour1 when it should be a nice golden brown4 ,take off the cover2 after it has slightly cooled1 remove the rice or meal and the buttered paper2 take the case from the mould1 and brush it all over with egg inside and out2 set it in the oven until the glazing dries1 and any part that may not be sufficiently brown becomes the color of the cover1 which1 being glazed at first1 is not returned to the oven4 ,preparation for ,filling the ,case4--,fillet chickens1 guinea-hens1 partridges1 or grouse 7leave pigeons or quails whole1 but bone them74 ,put sufficient pieces of one sort1 or all sorts mixed1 to fill the pate chaude case into a saute pan1 with two ounces of butter1 and saute till lightly colored4 ,take them out1 and put them in a stewpan with a quart of reduced consomme1 half a pint of mushrooms sliced1 a dozen truffles cut into dice 7half-inch71 a teaspoonful of salt1 a little pepper1 and a wineglass of sherry1 and let them simmer very gently1 not boil1 for half an hour1 or until very tender4 ,let them cool1 and when lukewarm arrange them in the pate case1 leaving the centre hollow1 which fill with mushrooms and truffles4 ,the liquor in which they were stewed must be then poured over them4 ,the cover of a pate chaude case is often not used1 and aspic jelly covers the top of the pie4 ,english ,manner of ,making ,game ,pie in a ,crust4--,use at least two kinds of game1 which for this purpose must not be long kept2 high game is acceptable to epicures when roasted or stewed1 but never in a pie4 ,discard all parts blackened by shot4 ,cut into neat joints1 from which bones must be removed4 ,take all the fragments from the carcass after the breast and joints are removed1 and the flesh of a small bird or hare1 or1 failing that1 some calf's liver fried in dice2 pound whichever you may have for force-meat in a mortar with four ounces of bacon that has been boiled2 when the whole forms a paste 7from which you have removed all strings1 sinew1 or gristle while pounding71 season with pepper and salt--a teaspoonful of salt to a pound of force-meat1 and a scant half saltspoonful of pepper4 ,put on the bones1 without vegetables1 in cold water to simmer until it is a rich broth1 which strain1 and boil rapidly till a little set on ice in a saucer will jelly4 ,make what is called raised paste in the following way3 ,to two pounds of flour use three quarters of a pound of butter and half a pint of scalding milk2 pour this into a hole in the centre of the flour1 and knead into a firm paste1 adding a little more milk if necessary 7but it seldom is74 ,this paste is not to be rolled1 but beaten out with the hand while warm to half an inch thickness4 ,line a well-buttered meat-pie mould1 with a hinge opening at the side2 leave half an inch of paste above the mould2 trim off neatly with scissors4 ,then lay in the game and force-meat in alternate layers1 seasoning the joints with pepper and salt as you lay them4 ,a few slices of tongue and truffles to form one layer are desirable4 ,when the mould is full1 lay on the cover1 moisten the under edge1 and pinch round in tiny scallops4 ,make a hole in the centre1 round which put an ornament2 stick in a bone to prevent the hole closing1 and bake two to four hours in a moderate oven1 according to size1 remembering always that the crust will not be injured by long baking1 and that the game in this pie is uncooked4 ,when it is removed from the oven1 let it stand half an hour1 taking the mould off1 that it may cool2 then brush the sides and top with an egg beaten with milk1 and return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown2 cover the top1 if it is already highly colored1 with a sheet of paper4 ,remove the bone from the centre1 insert a small funnel1 and after removing all fat from it1 pour in the gravy from the bones4 ,the gravy must be poured very slowly or it will bubble up1 and care must be taken to have all the pie will hold1 yet not a drop too much1 or it will ooze somewhere4 ,these pies1 when quite cold1 may be sent any distance1 and are much used in ,england and ,scotland for hunting-parties1 besides being a standard breakfast and luncheon dish4 ,the crust is merely a frame to hold the game4 ,,xxi4 ,,garnishes4 ,in all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully studied4 ,however good the taste may be1 the effect will be spoiled if its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised by the name on the menu4 ,for this reason the subject of garnishes requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn4 ,in the old time garnishes were few and simple1 and when not simple1 very ugly1 as the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice4 ,nowadays garnishes are many1 and many so termed form part of the dish1 as what are termed1 floating garnishes for soup1 quenelles1 etc4 ,garnishes that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those intended for eating4 ,foremost among fashionable floating garnishes for soup are the colored custards known as pate royale2 they are perfectly easy to make1 yet very effective served in clear bouillon4 ,colored ,custard4--,prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs1 a gill of cream or strong bouillon1 and a pinch of salt2 butter small saucers or cups2 divide the custard in three--color one with spinach juice or pulp of green asparagus1 another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red carrot boiled1 and a third with pulp of beets4 ,a few drops of cochineal may be added to intensify the color of the last1 which is apt to be a beautiful pink instead of red4 ,the custard for which pulps are used must be strained after they are added1 expressing as much of the juice as possible4 ,the custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable used for color4 ,spinach ,juice is very frequently directed to be used as coloring1 but scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without preparation is of very little use4 ,it should be prepared as follows3 ,take a large handful of fresh green spinach1 wash it1 and remove decayed leaves only2 drain well1 then pound in a mortar or chopping-bowl until quite mashed4 ,let it stand a quarter of an hour1 then squeeze the mass in a cloth1 and put the green water into a cup1 which set over the fire in a small saucepan of water2 watch the scum rise2 when it stands quite thick at the top and turns a vivid green1 remove at once 7if it remains on the fire after this the green darkens72 pour the contents of the cup through cheese-cloth or thin muslin laid in a strainer4 ,the scum that remains is your coloring matter4 ,it must be carefully scraped off with a spoon1 and mix with the custard only as much as is required to give a delicate green tint4 ,if any is left it may be mixed with an equal quantity of salt and put away2 it loses color1 however1 after a few days4 ,the colored custards must be set in water1 a small piece of buttered paper over each1 and the water allowed to boil gently round them till they are firm4 ,let them get quite cold2 then cut them into cubes or diamonds4 ,profiterolles4--,perhaps the next in popularity of these floating garnishes are profiterolles1 or prophet's rolls1 as cooks call them4 ,they are made exactly like those intended for dessert1 omitting sweetening of course1 and a very small quantity is required1 as they must be dropped no larger than a pea1 and baked a pale fawn-color4 ,put a gill of water and a pinch of salt and two ounces of butter in a small saucepan2 as soon as they begin to boil draw the saucepan back and stir in four ounces of flour2 beat well over the fire with a wooden spoon until it becomes a soft paste1 then add the yolks of two eggs and white of one1 beating each yolk in separately4 ,it will be seen that the paste is similar to that made for cream cakes4 ,a similar garnish is made in the following way3 ,beat an egg with a pinch of salt1 and then stir in as much dry sifted flour as the egg will moisten2 work it well with the hands till it is elastic1 although stiff4 ,roll it on a pastry board until it is as thin as paper1 then roll it on a clean linen cloth still thinner1 and leave it a quarter of an hour to dry4 ,then fold the paste1 press it very tightly together1 and with a tin cylinder1 not larger in diameter than a cent1 cut out1 with considerable pressure1 as many small disks as you require to allow five or six to each plate of soup4 ,have ready in a small saucepan some smoking hot lard4 ,drop the disks in2 they will puff and swell till they are like marbles4 ,stir them1 and take them out of the fat2 they require only a few seconds to brown1 and must be taken out very pale4 ,add to the soup the last thing before serving4 ,while aspic jelly is certainly the handsomest of garnishes for cold dishes1 it is generally part of the food itself1 and should not be so lavishly used that when helped there is more jelly than meat served4 ,where the jelly is intended only for a garnish not to be eaten1 simple gelatine is sufficient4 ,for instance1 a large platter containing a galantine or a chaudfroid may have a handsome wreath glued on the border1 of red and green leaves1 or holly leaves and red berries1 or any device that need not be disturbed by the carver4 ,for such decorations as these gelatine is melted in proportion of three ounces to a scant quart of water1 cleared with white of egg1 and then colored pale yellow with caramel or saffron1 vivid red with cochineal1 and bright green with spinach2 it saves time and trouble to let this congeal on dishes in thin sheets4 ,small cutters of ivy1 oak1 and other leaves can readily be purchased at the large house-furnishing stores4 ,one word here about uneatable decorations1 never admit them at a children's party2 they are the very part of the feast the little people will most crave2 red leaves for them must be of red currant-jelly1 yellow of white1 etc4 ,forced butter is another form of garnish which adds much to the appearance of glazed ham or tongue4 ,it is butter beaten to a white cream1 then put in a forcer1 and a pattern traced on the ham1 which must be followed just as in icing a cake4 ,a ,few ,ways of ,cooking ,vegetables4--,it is not intended to go into the general cooking of vegetables1 although it may be said that even the choicest cooking can offer no greater luxury1 or1 alas6 a greater rarity1 than a dish of early peas or asparagus perfectly cooked4 ,but this is not the place to remedy the wholesale spoiling of summer vegetables that goes on in almost every kitchen4 ,i will only give what may be a few new ways of preparing familiar vegetables4 ,stuffed ,artichokes4--,wash the artichokes2 boil till nearly tender2 drain them2 remove the middle leaves and chokes 7this is the fibrous part round the base72 lay in each a little rich force-meat1 and put them in the oven to cook until the meat is done4 ,serve with rich brown gravy4 ,fried ,artichokes4--,cut in slices lengthwise2 remove the chokes1 cut off the tops of the leaves1 wash them in vinegar and water1 drain them1 and dip them in frying batter4 ,fry in very hot oil or lard4 ,serve with fried parsley sprinkled with salt4 ,beet-root ,fritters4--,cut boiled beets in slices2 slice raw onions2 scald them2 dry them well2 then lay one slice of onion1 sprinkled with chopped chervil1 pepper1 and salt1 between two slices of beet4 ,dip them carefully in frying batter1 and plunge into boiling fat2 when pale brown take them up4 ,cauliflower ,fritters4--,parboil the cauliflower--that is to say1 boil until it begins to be tender--about fifteen minutes2 then plunge it into ice-cold water2 this keeps it white4 ,break it up into branches4 ,dip each one into thick bechamel sauce slightly warmed2 let them get cold2 then take each piece separately and dip it into carefully made frying batter1 and drop them into boiling lard2 fry a pale brown1 and serve garnished with fried parsley4 ,,xxii4 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,serving ,,vegetables4 ,stuffed ,cucumbers4--,cut large-sized young cucumbers into slices about two inches thick1 rejecting the ends4 ,peel1 and remove the seeds2 scald the slices for ten minutes1 plunge them into cold water1 and drain them4 ,line a fire-proof china dish with very thin slices of unsmoked bacon which has been scalded2 make some veal force-meat such as directed for galantines2 fill the holes in the centre of the rings of cucumber till it is level with the surface on both sides2 wrap each up in a slice of bacon broad enough to cover it4 ,tie round with a string1 pour a pint of strong stock into the dish1 and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven4 ,when done1 take up the cucumber1 drain1 and remove the bacon carefully so as not to disturb the stuffing4 ,lay in a dish1 and serve with ,robert sauce4 ,in the following recipes the mushrooms to be used are the large flap ones4 ,when canned ones will serve1 the fact will be stated4 ,mushrooms ,stuffed a la ,lucullus4--,wash1 dry1 and trim large mushrooms2 chop up the stalks and broken ones fine with a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 pepper1 salt1 and a tomato2 make these hot in a tablespoonful of butter4 ,fill the mushrooms with the mixture1 place them on a buttered baking-dish1 and bake six minutes1 basting them once or twice with clarified butter4 ,mushrooms and ,tomatoes4--,toast some slices of bread1 cut them into rounds two inches in diameter1 and butter them4 ,peel some firm tomatoes1 cut them into thick slices1 and lay them on the toast4 ,on the top of each place a peeled mushroom4 ,put them on a dish that can go to table1 pour a little clarified butter over them1 put them in a hot oven for three minutes1 and baste well4 ,serve hot and quickly4 ,mushroom ,jelly4--,take two pounds of mushrooms1 put them in a stewpan over the fire with a gill of strong consomme4 ,squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice1 add a little pepper and salt1 unless the consomme was salt enough4 ,melt in a gill of water half an ounce of gelatine1 and strain it4 ,when the mushrooms are quite soft1 pass them through a sieve1 mixed with the gelatine1 and pour the mixture into a mould which has been rinsed with water4 ,when set1 turn out and garnish with finely chopped aspic1 and a few cherry tomatoes if in season4 ,mushroom ,baskets4--,make some puff-paste2 roll it out very thin4 ,line some small suitably shaped moulds 7darioles will do very nicely72 fill the centre with uncooked rice or flour to keep the shape while baking2 cut some strips of paste1 twist them1 and bend them into the shape of handles2 bake them very pale4 ,when the pastry cases are done1 empty out the rice1 remove them from the moulds1 and fill with the following mixture3 chop as many canned mushrooms as you require with a small shallot1 squeeze to them the juice and pulp of a large tomato1 and put them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of very thick white sauce4 ,stir till about the consistency to eat with a fork4 ,squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over the top4 ,put the handles in so that they stand over the tops4 ,decorate with fried parsley4 ,the large ,spanish or ,portuguese onion that has of late years appeared in the markets is not often properly cooked4 ,it is the most delicate and delicious of all onions1 lacking the usual intense heat and rank odor4 ,for this reason persons who wish to eat onions1 either for health or inclination1 will find this large onion cut up with ordinary salad dressing a great improvement even on ,bermudas4 ,this onion is full of a milky juice1 which is lost in cooking if it is cut4 ,therefore1 where a simple dish is required1 the best way is to boil it1 without peeling or trimming1 for three hours if it weighs three pounds 7it must be tender right through72 then take it up1 strip it1 and remove the root1 stalk1 etc4 ,pour over it a rich white sauce1 and serve1 taking care that the gravy that runs from the onion is served with it4 ,a still better way when an oven is not wanted is to bake them4 ,put them in a dripping-pan in the oven without removing peel or stalk4 ,bake at least four hours in a moderate oven4 ,it will burn and blacken outside1 which is of no consequence4 ,keep it turned so that the darkening may not go deeper one side than the other4 ,when quite tender 7but do not try it until it begins to shrink1 or you will let out the juices71 so that a knitting-needle will run through it1 take it out of the oven1 strip off three or four skins1 remove root and stalk1 and place the onion1 without breaking it1 on a dish2 put a piece of butter as large as an egg1 with a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper worked in it1 on the onion2 cover it1 and put in the oven till the butter melts1 and serve very hot4 ,stuffed ,spanish ,onion4--,parboil a ,spanish onion2 then drop it into ice-water2 take out the centre and fill it with force-meat2 cover with a thin slice of sweet fat pork2 sprinkle with a teaspoonful of salt and the same of sugar2 add four tablespoonfuls of stock1 cover closely1 and cook over a good fire4 ,when the onion is tender1 take it up1 remove the pork1 strain and skim the gravy1 pour it over1 and serve4 ,the best force-meat for the stuffing is made of cold chicken1 a shred of boiled ham1 a little chopped parsley1 half a dozen mushrooms1 all chopped well and mixed with a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt4 ,potatoes a la ,provencale4--,mash and pass through a wire sieve two pounds of potatoes2 season with pepper and salt4 ,grate two ounces of ,gruyere 7,swiss7 cheese1 pound it with enough butter to make a paste1 add a gill of milk and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 put this in a saute pan1 add the potato1 mix all well1 and stir until the mass is pale brown2 serve as a pyramid4 ,milanese ,potatoes4--,bake large potatoes till just tender2 cut off the tops1 which keep4 ,scoop out the potatoes1 but do not break the skin4 ,mash the inside with butter1 pepper1 salt1 and grated ,parmesan2 about a teaspoonful of butter and cheese to each will be the right proportion4 ,beat the potato mixture with a fork for a minute to make it light1 refill the skins1 put on the covers1 and heat them in the oven4 ,scalloped ,potatoes4--,mash two pounds of potatoes with milk1 and pass through a sieve2 add three ounces of butter melted1 two ounces of grated ,parmesan cheese1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,fill shells with this mixture1 and brown them in the oven4 ,glaze them over with butter melted and grated ,parmesan2 return one minute to the hottest part of the oven4 ,serve very hot4 ,tomato ,jelly4--,two pounds of tomatoes1 half a grain of red pepper1 and two small shallots4 ,place them in a stewpan and boil till quite soft4 ,melt half an ounce of gelatine in as little white stock as possible2 add this to the tomatoes1 and strain2 if not perfectly clear1 clarify with white of egg in the usual way4 ,mould1 and serve with chopped aspic round it4 ,a little grated ,parmesan may be sometimes sprinkled over it for a change4 ,tomato ,souffle4--,prepare some tomato pulp1 taking care to boil it down if too liquid2 stir in the yolks of three eggs1 then the whites well beaten2 salt to taste4 ,fill either a large souffle case or several small ones4 ,bake in a hot oven till it rises very high and is set in the centre2 serve instantly4 ,spinach ,fritters4--,boil the spinach till it is quite tender2 drain1 press1 and mince it fine2 add half the quantity of grated stale bread1 one grate of nutmeg1 and a small teaspoonful of sugar2 add a gill of cream and as many eggs as will make a batter1 beating the whites separately2 pepper and salt to taste4 ,drop a little from a spoon into boiling lard2 if it separates1 add a little more crumb of bread2 when they rise to the surface of the fat they are done4 ,drain them1 and serve very quickly1 or they will fall4 ,,xxiii4 ,,jellies4 ,in this country culinary skill seems to run to sweet rather than to savory cooking2 very few housekeepers but make excellent preserves and cakes1 yet the list of sweet dishes manufactured at home is very limited2 as soon as anything not in this category is required the caterer is applied to1 and he has his list of water-ices1 cream-ices1 and meringues1 with very little variation2 sometimes1 indeed1 a new name appears on the list1 but it turns out to be some old friend with a new garnish1 or put in a different mould and given an alluring name4 ,there are many delicious sweet dishes not difficult to make when once the processes of making jelly and of freezing are understood 7and very many who do not pretend to be good cooks are expert at these two things71 and others which do not require even that ability4 ,to put a sweet dish on the table1 however1 in perfection1 especially if it be an iced one1 requires the utmost care and skill2 the slightest carelessness in packing a frozen pudding1 any delay between removing it from the ice and getting it on the dish1 will destroy that dull1 marble-like appearance it ought to wear when first it makes its entry1 although it will gleam with melting sweetness long before it reaches the partakers4 ,happily there are many delightful sweets which are beautiful in appearance and less depending on atmosphere than any of the family of ices4 ,the simplest of these are fruit jellies4 ,i spoke just now of the art of making jelly1 and many readers may think in using such a term for so simple a thing ,i am exaggerating1 and perhaps art is hardly the word1 yet there is a daintiness and nicety in making jelly which almost deserves the term4 ,however1 before talking of how sweet dishes are to be made it is necessary to provide the means by which they are to be redeemed from the commonplace of mere richness and sweetness4 ,the flavorings and liqueurs keep indefinitely if well corked4 ,orange-flower water1 it is true1 will lose strength1 but when a bottle is first opened1 if it is poured off into small vials1 and each one corked and sealed1 it will keep its original strength4 ,the following list of articles kept in store will enable a cook to give her cakes1 creams1 etc41 just that foreign flavor that home products so often lack3 almonds1 almond paste1 candied cherries1 candied angelica1 candied orange1 lemon1 and citron peels1 pistachio-nuts1 orange-flower water1 rose-water1 prepared cochineal1 maraschino1 ratafia1 lemons1 extract of vanilla1 and sherry4 ,several of these things are used principally for decoration2 for instance1 the candied cherries and angelica and the pistachio-nuts4 ,consequently1 unless the cherries and angelica are required for dessert 7to which they are a showy and delicious addition71 a quarter of a pound at a time is all that need be bought4 ,very likely in small cities or country places these latter articles may not be obtainable4 ,but they are sold at the large city caterers'1 also at the stores which deal in ,french crystallized fruits--not ,french candy stores--and can always be sent by mail4 ,the vanilla should be of the finest quality1 and had better be bought by the ounce or half-pint from the druggist than from the grocer4 ,there are good extracts put up1 no doubt1 but very many of them are largely made of tonka-bean1 the flavor familiar in cheap ice-cream1 in place of the more expensive vanilla4 ,in the recipes that will be given the directions will be as minute as possible2 but to prescribe the number of drops required to flavor a quart of cream would be utterly impossible1 the strength of the flavoring used differing so greatly1 even in lemons4 ,sometimes the juice of half a lemon will be right for a certain thing1 at another the juice of a quarter of one would be too much4 ,this is where judgment must be exercised4 ,if you have a very juicy lemon1 although your recipe says the juice of half1 you will remember that the average lemon would not yield nearly so much1 and that the author had the average lemon in mind4 ,this applies to all flavoring4 ,sometimes extract of bitter almond is so strong that even a drop would be too much to impart the faint almond flavor which alone is tolerable4 ,in this case the thing to do for fear of spoiling the dish is to pour a half-dozen drops in a teaspoonful of water1 and use from that1 drop by drop1 until the faint flavor desired is attained4 ,in using any flavoring1 great care must be taken not to put too much1 as anything in the least over-flavored is offensive4 ,mould of ,apple ,jelly4--,peel and cut up a pound of fine-flavored apples 7to weigh a pound after preparation72 put them in a stewpan with three ounces of granulated sugar1 half a pint of water1 and the juice and grated rind of a lemon4 ,when cooked to a pulp1 pass through a strainer1 and stir in one ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of water4 ,color half the apple with about half a teaspoonful of cochineal1 and fill a border mould with alternate layers of the colored and uncolored apple4 ,when cold1 turn out and serve with half a pint of cream whipped solid and piled in the centre4 ,there is a great difference in the solidity of whipped cream4 ,sometimes it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy1 and cannot be piled up4 ,when this is the case there is always a great waste of cream1 for at least half will have been left as a milky residue4 ,the reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because it is too fresh or too warm4 ,if in proper condition1 cream will whip as solid as white of eggs1 and leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl2 nor will there be the least danger of cream so whipped going back to liquid4 ,it will become sour1 but not change its form2 and it will take but a few minutes to beat4 ,cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm weather1 and thirty-six in winter4 ,it should also be thoroughly chilled1 and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl containing it on ice while whipping it4 ,put in the whip1 or egg-beater1 and do not lift the froth off as it rises2 it is quite unnecessary if the vessel you use for the cream is large enough4 ,as you see it begin to thicken1 which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes1 keep on just as you would for white of eggs4 ,when the beater is withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height4 ,if by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper consistency1 leave the beater in the bowl1 and set the whole on the ice until very cold again4 ,the consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form4 ,it should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining solid4 ,it requires some little practice to make sure of this every time1 although exact proportions be given4 ,a tablespoonful difference in the pint or gill measure would1 where the gelatine is only just enough1 cause the jelly to squat--not an elegant term1 but one that represents the form of a too soft jelly4 ,a very exact recipe for plain claret jelly1 and which in proportions serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation1 is as follows3 ,three quarters of a pint of water1 one pint of claret1 a quarter of a pint of lemon juice 7this makes one quart of liquid71 the rind of one lemon1 half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves1 one tablespoonful of red currant jelly1 two ounces of gelatine1 the whites and shells of two eggs1 a few drops of cochineal1 and four ounces of sugar2 put all in a stewpan1 the gelatine having been softened in a little of the water2 whisk over the fire until the whole boils2 then draw it off1 let it stand for five to ten minutes2 strain through flannel or fine linen without pressure1 add a few drops of cochineal to brighten the color1 and mould for use4 ,use great care in selecting cinnamon1 for very much that is sold is not the true spice1 but a cheaper one 7cassia7 that resembles it4 ,cinnamon has a bright tan-color1 is rolled many times1 and is not much thicker than paper when a piece is unrolled4 ,cassia is thicker in the roll1 a dull brown1 and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood4 ,it is similar in flavor1 but much coarser1 and has little strength4 ,,xxiv4 ,,jellies4--,continued4 ,if it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid is the right proportion1 and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring1 fruit juice1 or what not1 is added1 exactly the same quantity of other liquid must be omitted1 there will not be much danger of formless jelly4 ,many forget this when not working from an exact recipe1 and remembering only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of gelatine to set it1 they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of lemon1 etc41 they may add for flavoring4 ,although wine jelly is rather a simple form of sweet1 suggestive of innocent country teas1 a very little more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it into a very elegant dish4 ,in the season for fruits there is no more beautiful ornament for jelly than these1 carefully gathered1 with two or three leaves attached4 ,jelly with ,fresh ,fruits4--,select cherries of two or three colors if possible1 in sprays of two or three1 and on each a leaf or two2 wash them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water4 ,lay them between soft cloths to remove all moisture4 ,make a quart of punch jelly in the following way3 ,put together a pint of water1 a quarter of a pint of the finest ,santa ,cruz or ,jamaica rum1 a quarter of a pint of sherry1 a gill and a half of lemon juice1 the rinds of two lemons1 and the juice of one orange1 or1 if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season1 half a gill more of water1 two ounces of gelatine1 half an inch of cinnamon1 the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed4 ,let this come to a boil over the fire1 being well whisked the while2 as soon as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range1 let it stand five minutes1 and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl2 let it drip1 but do not use the least pressure4 ,this jelly must be brilliantly clear4 ,if there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really boil1 and so the eggs had not completely coagulated2 in that event boil once more for an instant1 and strain again through fresh flannel4 ,oil a mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom1 and set it in cracked ice2 pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold4 ,have the cherries ice cold1 and arrange the sprays gracefully with due regard to color1 remembering that the best effect must be not upward towards you1 but towards the bottom of the mould2 thus the underside of the leaves must be upward1 etc4 ,do not put in more fruit than will display itself well4 ,the bunches are to be isolated1 not allowed to touch each other1 and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more than one cluster at the bottom1 if the mould is small there4 ,in this case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the centre1 pour in more jelly1 half an inch or so1 then nearer the sides arrange lighter-colored cherries1 two or three clusters1 no more4 ,the fruit is only intended as an ornament4 ,a jelly that is quite as pretty may be made by using clusters of red and white1 or red1 white1 and black currants4 ,the red and white ones should have two or three young leaves attached1 and each cluster be perfect2 no black-currant leaves must be used1 as they have a strong flavor4 ,jelly with ,candied ,fruits4--,make a quart of maraschino jelly1 which is done by omitting the rum1 lemon1 and cinnamon from the last recipe1 and using in place of rum a gill of maraschino1 and water in place of lemon juice4 ,the jelly must be very pale4 ,choose the fruits of as bright colors as possible--small green oranges1 red cherries1 bright yellow mirabelles1 angelica perfectly green4 ,cut the oranges in half--two or three will suffice--leave mirabelles and cherries whole2 apricots cut in half-moons4 ,the angelica1 if cut across a quarter-inch thick1 will form rings1 but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split lengthwise1 softened in hot water1 wiped1 then tied into small love-knots4 ,pour into a mould set in ice 7the melon shape is excellent for these jellies7 an inch of jelly1 let it set2 then scatter in a few pieces of bright-colored fruit1 always the best side downward2 pour in an inch more of jelly1 and when set more fruit1 keeping the brighter pieces towards the side2 if you have knots of angelica1 put them near the side4 ,always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set before adding more4 ,although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly for decorative effect1 they do add very greatly to the pleasure of eating them2 but jellied fruits1 as distinguished from fruits in jelly1 are a delicious mode of eating fruit1 and where it is in abundance afford a pleasant variety4 ,jellied ,raspberries4--,melt two ounces of gelatine in a gill of water1 squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants1 and crush as many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure4 ,it is almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar1 as fruits differ so much4 ,stir in six ounces1 then if not sweet enough add more2 mould the jelly1 and serve with cream4 ,this is also very nice put in a border mould1 the centre filled with whipped cream4 ,roman ,punch ,jellies4--,these require stiff paper cases of any of the ornamental kinds used for ice-cream1 but they must not flare4 ,make some maraschino or wine jelly4 ,when it begins to set1 pour the jelly into the cases1 which must be on ice1 so that half the fluid jelly may set before it has time to soak the case4 ,when quite set1 very carefully remove the centre1 leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick4 ,the last thing before serving fill the centres with well-frozen ,roman-punch ice4 ,a ,macedoine of fruits1 if well managed and a good assortment of fruits can be had1 is a very ornamental way of serving fruit4 ,a mould should have half an inch of maraschino1 punch1 wine1 or lemon jelly poured into it2 then some perfect strawberries1 or1 failing those1 red cherries1 as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding1 no more2 then more jelly1 and a layer of fruit of another kind 7white1 if possible71 as pineapple cut into stars--a number of small stars can be stamped out of a few thin slices--more jelly1 and a ring of dark fruit4 ,take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows4 ,when the mould is almost full1 with a layer or two of each kind of fruit1 fill it up with jelly and set on ice4 ,creams are a favorite sweet in ,europe1 and eaten ice cold are delicious4 ,too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange1 which may mean anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream1 but seldom is improved by the confectioner's art into a really handsome and dainty dish4 ,ginger ,cream4--,make a custard of a gill of milk1 an ounce of powdered sugar1 and the beaten yolks of three eggs4 ,stir in a double boiler until thick4 ,let it cool4 ,then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of preserved ginger1 and cut up two ounces of the ginger2 add three quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible4 ,last of all1 add half a pint of cream whipped solid4 ,mix gently and till well blended2 pour into a mould1 and set on ice4 ,neapolitan ,cream4--,make a custard of half a pint of milk1 the yolks of four eggs1 and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar4 ,let it cool4 ,cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small2 cook it in a gill of ginger syrup for three minutes4 ,let it cool also4 ,decorate the mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves1 etc41 of jelly4 ,cut the cherries in half1 glue them with a little melted jelly to the side and bottom of the mould2 cut some jelly in thin slices1 or melt it and let it run into thin sheets1 which allow to chill1 and stamp from them leaves1 or whatever shapes you please4 ,glue these also to the side of the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise4 ,stir one ounce of gelatine melted in very little water1 and half a pint of cream whipped solid1 to the custard with which you have already mixed the ginger and syrup4 ,pour all into the decorated mould1 put on ice1 and when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the mould2 give it a smart slap on both sides1 and it will turn out without difficulty4 ,,xxv4 ,,cold ,,sweets4--,,creams4 ,coffee ,cream4--,make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a pint of milk2 dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in half a gill of strong coffee2 add the custard1 and strain2 whip half a pint of cream quite firm2 stir lightly into the custard2 when it is cool1 pour into a mould1 and set on ice4 ,the excellence of this cream depends on the coffee1 which must be filtered1 not boiled1 freshly made1 and very strong--three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint4 ,curacoa ,cream4--,make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of milk2 dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as possible2 mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar2 add to the custard2 then stir in a generous glass of curacoa1 and let the mixture cool1 after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid4 ,stir very lightly together until well blended2 then mould and set on ice4 ,strawberry ,cream4--,hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries2 put them on a fine sieve1 and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them2 put half an ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water1 two ounces and a half of powdered sugar1 and the juice of a lemon1 and let it dissolve by gentle heat4 ,pass the strawberries through the sieve2 strain the gelatine1 etc41 to the strawberry juice1 and put to get cold2 then add half a pint of cream whipped solid4 ,stir very lightly to the strawberry juice1 etc41 when the latter is beginning to set4 ,vanilla ,cream4--,make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg1 and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar2 melt an ounce of gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water1 strain it to the custard1 and mix well2 whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth1 and stir it gently to the custard and gelatine2 flavor with vanilla4 ,after the vanilla is added1 make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with cochineal or strawberry juice2 let this cool in a thin sheet2 stamp from it small clover leaves or lozenges1 not over an inch long and three quarters broad2 decorate the bottom of a mould with them1 using a little gelatine and water to fasten them2 set the mould in chopped ice1 and about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces2 take great care there is no inequality as to height or distance 7slovenly decoration is worse than none74 ,when the lozenges are quite secure in their places1 pour in the cream4 ,it is needless to repeat this form of decoration of creams1 they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste1 but as a rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of bright-colored jelly1 or of cream colored pink1 orange1 pistache green1 or brown4 ,candied fruits are not effective1 although sometimes used1 unless the cream itself has fruit in it4 ,pistache ,cream4--,half an ounce of gelatine1 two ounces of powdered sugar2 melt the gelatine in a gill of water1 then add the sugar1 a glass of sherry1 and a glass of kirsch4 ,whip half a pint of thick cream solid1 and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to it very lightly1 and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts1 blanched and chopped fine1 with enough vegetable green coloring to make the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts4 ,this cream must be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added1 till thick enough for them not to sink4 ,almond ,cream4--,half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry2 grate four ounces of almond paste into it1 and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling water until dissolved1 or at least until there are no lumps4 ,let this get cool4 ,whip a pint and a gill of cream solid1 and stir to the mixture4 ,decorate a mould with any red jelly1 pour the mixture in1 and set on ice4 ,in consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine1 in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before pouring into a mould1 then add more cream or gelatine as required4 ,cold ,puddings and ,frozen ,puddings4--,some of these puddings might just as appropriately be called creams2 however1 fashion ordains that they shall be puddings4 ,one of the newest is the ,jubilee ,pudding4--,make a pint of claret jelly2 pour it into a small border mould2 whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an ounce of dissolved gelatine4 ,when it is whipped solid1 stir in one ounce of preserved or candied cherries1 one ounce of candied angelica1 one ounce of preserved ginger1 and one ounce of preserved apricot--the ginger and angelica cut small4 ,set on ice2 then turn out4 ,pile the whipped cream and fruit in the centre1 and decorate according to fancy4 ,cold ,souffle ,pudding a la ,princesse4--,melt half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of cream2 set in boiling water till dissolved2 beat the yolks of three eggs well1 and add to the milk2 when well mixed1 put the custard into a double boiler till it thickens--it must not boil4 ,pour it into a bowl1 and add a gill of apricot preserve1 made into a puree by rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice1 two ounces of sugar1 a little lemon juice1 and cochineal to color it a very delicate pink4 ,beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip2 stir them in very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon1 the object being to keep the white of egg from falling1 yet the whole must be thoroughly mixed4 ,stir till nearly cold before putting the souffle in a mould to set4 ,imperial ,rice ,pudding4--,pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly into a quart mould1 turning the mould about so that the jelly covers every part2 this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place4 ,cover the inside of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an ounce of angelica cut into thin rings4 ,stew a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk till tender2 when cool1 add half a pint of whipped cream1 a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water1 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 and a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,when it is all well mixed1 turn the preparation into the mould1 and set on ice4 ,when firm1 turn out of the mould1 and serve with a puree of apricots4 ,diplomatic ,pudding4--,make a quart of custard in the following way3 ,put the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl1 and mix well with a wooden spoon2 stir in half a pint of milk1 and strain all into a double boiler or a pitcher2 add two ounces of sugar1 and stand the pitcher 7unless you have the double boiler7 in a saucepan of boiling water1 and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens1 but it must not boil2 remove from the fire2 stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a little vanilla4 ,line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly2 this is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid1 rolling the mould about on ice1 and as soon as one coat adheres1 pour in more1 until the mould is evenly coated2 decorate it with half an ounce of candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica--the cherries split and the angelica cut4 ,melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a gill of water2 stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream2 stir till cool2 then add an ounce more cherries1 half an ounce of angelica1 and half an ounce of citron1 all chopped small4 ,pour this gently into the mould you have decorated1 set on ice1 turn out and serve4 ,cold ,cabinet ,pudding4--,ornament the bottom of a pint mould with candied cherries and angelica2 split half a dozen lady-fingers2 line the sides of the mould very evenly with them1 arranging them alternately back and front against the mould2 put in two ounces of ratafias 7these are tiny macaroons about the size of a five-cent piece1 of high flavor1 and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks' who make foreign specialties2 some grocers also import them72 put four yolks of eggs into a bowl2 stir them2 then add half a pint of milk2 pour this custard into a double boiler1 and stir until it thickens1 taking care that it does not curdle4 ,melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water2 strain it to the custard4 ,when the latter cools1 add half a gill of thick1 fresh cream1 two ounces of sugar1 and a teaspoonful of vanilla2 mix all well1 and pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake4 ,put the mould on ice1 and1 when set1 turn out and serve4 ,,xxvi4 ,,creams ,,and ,,frozen ,,puddings4 ,nut creams1 with the exception of almond1 are not very well known1 but are so delicious that they ought to be4 ,one reason perhaps is that it is not generally known that kernels of nuts1 such as hazel-nuts1 walnuts1 hickory-nuts1 etc41 can be bought by the pound at confectioners' supply stores4 ,this1 of course1 saves the tedious work of cracking and shelling4 ,to use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be pounded very well1 with very little white of egg--just enough to moisten and render the process easy4 ,cocoanut ,cream4--,grate a fresh1 sweet cocoanut 7having first peeled1 washed1 and wiped it dry72 mix with it an ounce of sugar2 melt in as little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine2 whip the whites of three eggs1 mix them with half a pint of milk1 and stir over the fire until the custard thickens2 sweeten with four tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard4 ,whip half a pint of thick cream solid1 and stir it very carefully into the custard2 when the latter is quite cold1 but before it sets1 flavor with a little vanilla or lemon extract4 ,mould and set on ice4 ,hazel-nut ,cream4--,put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot 7they must not become too hot1 or they will change flavor72 then rub them between two coarse cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin 7it cannot be entirely removed72 blow away the loose hulls1 and pound the nuts to a paste with a little white of egg4 ,make a custard with the yolks of three eggs and half a pint of milk2 dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of water1 mix with six ounces of powdered sugar1 and add to the custard when nearly cool4 ,stir in the hazel-nut paste1 taking care that it is well mixed with the custard1 and add a half-pint of cream whipped solid2 flavor with vanilla1 or you may omit flavoring1 the hazel-nut being sufficient for many people4 ,mould and set on ice4 ,this cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown1 for which reason it may be colored brown with caramel1 although ,i prefer it uncolored1 the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds one rejoices to see in ice-cream4 ,walnut or ,hickory-nut ,cream4--,pound one pint of either of these nuts1 after rubbing them well in a cloth1 make the same custard as for hazel-nut cream1 stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth1 add the whipped cream1 color a pale pink with cochineal1 and flavor faintly with rum or vanilla4 ,mould1 set on ice1 and serve with whipped cream flavored slightly with rum4 ,bohemian ,jelly ,creams4--,these may be made of any flavor1 according to the jelly you use4 ,it may be jelly of fruit or liqueur4 ,if fresh fruit is used for jelly1 the juice must be expressed1 and well-sweetened gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint4 ,if jam or marmalade is used1 a pint of water is added and the same amount of gelatine1 with the juice of half a lemon to the pint4 ,water1 jam1 and dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve2 either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and beginning to thicken2 then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of a pint of cream whipped solid2 pour the mixture into the mould1 which must be set in ice4 ,cover well1 and keep on ice till needed4 ,frangipanni ,iced ,pudding4--,grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs2 then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and dried2 pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar2 put all into a stewpan with the yolks of eight eggs1 and beat them very well together4 ,in another stewpan have a pint and a half of boiling milk1 which must be poured over the other ingredients by degrees1 keeping them well stirred4 ,place it over the fire1 stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon2 rub this all through a coarse sieve1 add a glass of sherry1 and when cold pour the mixture into the freezer2 when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream1 and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould1 bury it in ice and salt1 and serve as you would ,nesselrode pudding4 ,iced ,cabinet ,pudding4--,cut a stale sponge cake into slices half an inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the pudding2 lay the slices of cake to soak in brandy flavored with noyau2 decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candied fruits1 split cherries1 angelica rings1 the same of green oranges1 and little diamonds of ginger1 with a few whole ratafias1 dipping them in jelly to make them adhere2 lay in one slice of cake1 then cherries and ratafias1 another slice of cake1 and so on1 until the mould is three parts full4 ,make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and an ounce of gelatine2 when this is cold pour part into the mould1 which must close hermetically2 pack it in salt and ice for at least two hours2 when you wish to turn it out1 dip it a minute in lukewarm water4 ,keep the remaining custard on ice1 flavor it with sherry or rum1 beat it up1 pour it around the pudding1 and strew it with chopped pistachio-nuts4 ,ice ,pudding4--,make a custard with a pint and a half of milk1 one whole egg and the yolks of four others1 and a quarter of a pound of sugar2 when cold1 add half a glass of brandy1 a glass of maraschino1 an ounce of citron cut fine1 a quarter of a pound of dried fruits1 and an ounce of pistachio-nuts1 the fruits cut up in small pieces1 the pistachio-nuts blanched and split2 mix well2 and lastly add half a pint of whipped cream4 ,when well frozen1 pack into a pudding mould1 and bury in ice and salt till wanted4 ,bombay ,ice ,pudding4--,line a plain mould with ,roman-punch ice an inch thick1 keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do it2 then fill the centre with the following mixture3 a pint of cocoanut grated very fine1 mixed with a pint of ice-cream2 take great care that the cocoanut is ice-cold before you mix it in1 or it will melt the ice-cream4 ,when the mould is filled within an inch of the top1 cover it with ,roman punch1 close the mould hermetically1 and bury in ice4 ,these puddings1 where two kinds of ice are used1 must only be attempted after one has learned to pack plain ice-cream with success4 ,iced ,jelly ,pudding4--,make a custard with a pint of boiling cream1 three ounces of sugar1 and the yolks of four eggs beaten2 pour the cream to the eggs very carefully1 stirring it in by degrees4 ,have ready a quarter of an ounce of gelatine dissolved in very little milk1 mix it in1 and put the vessel containing the custard in a stewpan of boiling water1 and stir till it just thickens2 then whisk it until nearly cold4 ,mask a quart mould with jelly an inch thick--any favorite red jelly1 or a pale one tinted4 ,directions have already been given how the inside of a mould is to be coated with jelly4 ,there is an easier but extravagant way1 namely1 to fill the mould with jelly1 then scoop out the centre neatly1 leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick4 ,the centre1 of course1 might be made hot and bottled for another occasion1 or to make ,bohemian cream jellies4 ,when the mould is masked1 fill it with the custard1 which must be half frozen2 then cover securely1 and pack in ice and salt at least five hours before it is served4 ,,xxvii4 ,,iced ,,puddings4 ,filbert and ,wine ,iced ,pudding4--,to one pint of cream put four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry4 ,the cream must be perfectly sweet1 but should be at least twenty-four hours old1 and be ice cold4 ,whip this solid2 then freeze4 ,put a pint of filberts in a cool oven till the skins will nearly all rub off2 put them between two coarse cloths1 and rub as much as possible of the brown coating off them2 pound them to a paste with a little thick cream1 mix four ounces of sugar with the nuts1 and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a very thick batter2 flavor with lemon or vanilla1 or not1 as you choose2 freeze4 ,line a plain mould with the frozen wine cream an inch thick2 then fill in the centre with the frozen filberts well pressed in2 cover tight1 and pack in ice and salt for three hours1 or until wanted4 ,this pudding can be made of walnuts and port-wine cream4 ,iced ,custard with ,fruit4--,flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur you prefer2 beat twelve eggs thoroughly2 strain them2 boil the cream with five ounces of sugar1 and when it is just off the boil pour it1 little by little1 to the eggs2 add a quarter of an ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the custard2 whisk until cold2 have ready a mould masked with candied fruits4 ,to mask1 set the mould in a pan of cracked ice1 and dip each piece of fruit in strong melted jelly2 build up from the bottom of the mould having all the fruits1 cut about the thickness of a split candied cherry and near the size1 arranged with a view to a good effect when the mould shall be turned out4 ,half freeze the custard1 and pour it in the mould three inches high2 throw in some of the trimmings of candied fruit chopped fine4 ,when set1 add more custard1 then more fruit1 until the mould is full4 ,let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is wanted4 ,rice a la ,princesse4--,let some rice swell in water until quite tender2 proportion1 one cup of rice to two 7scant7 of water2 then butter a saucepan2 put the rice into it1 with half a pint of milk2 let it stew gently till it will mash2 the milk must have all been absorbed2 sweeten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,mix with this a gill of apricot jam1 a teaspoonful of vanilla1 and half a pint of whipped cream2 freeze2 when well frozen1 pack in a mould and bury in ice and salt4 ,pound a dozen macaroons2 stir them into a pint of whipped cream2 let the mixture be put on ice4 ,when the pudding is turned out of the mould1 cover with the macaroon cream1 and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot jelly4 ,chocolate ,cream ,pudding4--,boil a quarter of a pound of the finest vanilla chocolate in half a pint of milk1 whisking it well till it boils2 dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 ,beat three half-pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the chocolate cools2 when it is ice cold mix in one half the beaten cream1 and freeze4 ,line a plain mould with the frozen chocolate 7the remainder of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt1 so as to be ice cold72 fill up the centre of the mould with the cream1 cover tight1 and bury in salt and ice4 ,ice-,creams and ,ices4--,there are so many ways of making ice-cream1 that all one can do is to indicate the one or two best1 and certainly the very best is the simplest1 and there is no dessert so easy to prepare in hot weather as this1 since there is no work over the fire4 ,the only trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some twenty minutes1 which can be done by a child4 ,simplest ,fruit ,ice-,cream4--,mash two pounds of strawberries or raspberries1 put to them half a pound of powdered sugar1 and let them remain in a cold place two or three hours1 so that the juice may run2 then1 strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another half pound of sugar1 with the juice of half a lemon2 stir1 and pour cream and fruit juice into the freezer1 which must be packed with ice and rock-salt in about equal quantities1 the ice being broken quite small4 ,let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you begin to turn2 then freeze1 letting off the water1 and filling anew with ice and salt if necessary4 ,stir the cream down as it forms1 and keep on turning five or ten minutes after it is actually necessary4 ,this extra working insures that extreme smoothness characteristic of ,italian and ,french ice-cream4 ,if you are not expert in freezing1 be satisfied not to pack your cream in a mould for the first few times4 ,take out the paddle of the freezer1 press the ice compactly down in the freezer1 cover1 and see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free from water4 ,in two hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets from the caterer4 ,many people think that simply freezing the pure cream produces the loose1 frothy cream found at inferior confectioners'1 but this is not the case2 pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mass which cuts like butter4 ,i have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only1 but any fruit juice may be substituted1 varying the quantity of sugar as required4 ,when it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the juice1 it must not be added until the cream is frozen4 ,stir in raspberries1 strawberries1 chopped pineapple1 banana1 or peaches just before the ice is ready to pack down2 otherwise the fruit1 being full of water1 will freeze into hard knots4 ,tutti-frutti ,ice-,cream being made from chopped candied fruit1 this precaution is not necessary2 the fruit may be added at any time during the freezing1 or stirred in last1 as you please4 ,i have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream1 yet the way most in use is to add custard2 and ,french cooks always use meringue paste1 claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else can give4 ,custard for ,ice-,cream4--,this is made as any other custard1 except that double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be frozen4 ,it may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk1 as you prefer4 ,this must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer4 ,ice-,cream with ,eggs4--,one pint of milk1 three eggs1 leaving out one white1 half a pound of sugar 7if acid fruit is to be added1 it may require more for some tastes74 ,make a custard of these materials1 and half freeze it2 then add a pint of cream whipped solid4 ,stir in well and finish freezing1 turning the handle some few minutes after it gets pretty stiff1 if there is a strong enough hand near to do it4 ,in making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness of the articles you use2 for instance1 any sort of fruit may be added1 with the exception of lemons4 ,fleshy fruits1 such as pineapple1 peaches1 pears1 etc41 are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country2 abroad this is only done with soft fruits1 such as raspberries1 blackberries1 oranges1 and such as will mash through a colander4 ,others are very slightly stewed in rich syrup 7as nearly their own juice as possible71 then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly frozen4 ,in winter1 fruit jams1 and especially jellies1 are very pleasant in ice-cream2 they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of the natural sharpness of fresh fruit4 ,a tumbler of red currant jelly turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious1 and gives a pretty1 faint pink tint4 ,the method is just the same whether for custard and cream or cream alone4 ,the meringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar until stiff4 ,grilled ,almond ,ice-,cream4--,make a quart of ice-cream2 grill some almonds in the following way3 ,blanch four ounces of almonds1 dry them in a hot spot till they are brittle2 then put in a thick saucepan or saute pan four ounces of sugar and a gill of water2 let them boil five minutes2 throw in the almonds2 stir them till part of the sugar adheres and they begin to turn yellow4 ,take them up1 chop them1 and when quite cold stir them into the ice-cream1 which should be flavored with vanilla4 ,,xxviii4 ,,ice-,,creams ,,and ,,water-,,ices4 ,to those very fond of tea1 ice-cream made with it is very acceptable1 and is very much used at ,english garden parties4 ,tea ,ice-,cream4--,to one pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong green tea1 a pint and a half of cream1 and two quarts of rich milk1 and a very little cinnamon water4 ,let the whole simmer one minute1 not stirring1 but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the saucepan4 ,freeze as usual4 ,this recipe may be used for coffee and chocolate2 it will make a large quantity1 and for a medium-sized family one quarter will suffice4 ,chinese ,ice4--,beat the yolks of fifteen eggs with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar2 pound four ounces of pistachio-nuts 7blanched7 with the white of an egg2 put to it three gills of water2 stir it over the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream2 take great care that it does not boil4 ,color it green1 or part green and part yellow2 flavor as you please2 cut up a couple of candied ,chinese oranges small and a little preserved ginger1 and freeze4 ,water-,ices4--,these are exceedingly simple1 and no more elegant form of refreshment can be offered than a plate of well-frozen or a tumbler of half-frozen water-ice4 ,it is acceptable when ice-cream would be too heavy1 and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea1 or during a call1 without the seeming ostentation of ice-cream4 ,ginger ,water-,ice 7to serve as a beverage if preferred74--,take six ounces of preserved ginger1 free from fibre2 pound it2 make two quarts of lemonade by paring eight or ten lemons so thinly that the knife-blade shows through the yellow2 put the peel of three in a pitcher with a pound and a quarter of sugar2 pour two quarts of boiling water on them1 and cover2 squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons1 add to the water1 and when cold stir in the pounded ginger1 with the meringue paste made with the whites of four eggs4 ,freeze it4 ,if for drinking1 only half freeze1 work only enough to make it like half-melting snow1 and use only sugar enough to make a refreshing drink4 ,italians call this granito1 and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country4 ,pineapple ,water-,ice4--,this can be readily made of canned pineapple when the fresh fruit is out of season4 ,peel a pineapple2 grate it into a mortar2 then pound it well with six ounces of sugar2 let it stand covered for an hour2 add the juice of five oranges1 and a pint and a half of syrup boiled to the little thread1 or a lisse4 7,this syrup is much used in making water-ices1 punches1 etc4 ,it is sugar and water boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger47 ,mix well and freeze4 ,if canned fruit is used1 you need less sugar1 and substitute lemon for half the orange juice4 ,almond ,water-,ice4--,take one pound of almond paste1 a pint and a half of water1 and three quarters of a pound of sugar2 grate the paste2 then stir till quite dissolved4 ,flavor with vanilla or raspberry2 stir in the whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small4 ,freeze as usual4 ,cinnamon ,water-,ice4--,this is a ,german ice1 and very much liked by those who are fond of the flavor4 ,pound an ounce of the finest quality of cinnamon in the stick1 put it into a pint and a half of boiling water1 and cover it well2 when it is cold add a quart of syrup 7the little thread7 and the well-beaten whites of two eggs1 and freeze it4 ,pistachio ,water-,ice4--,blanch and pound a pound of pistachio-nuts1 using the white of an egg to moisten2 mix with a quart of syrup a lisse4 ,heighten the color1 if too pale1 with spinach coloring1 and flavor to taste4 7,pistachio-nuts have no flavor of their own1 astonishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of pistachio flavor47 ,freeze as usual4 ,apricot ,water-,ice4--,there is no more delicious water-ice than this if fine-flavored apricots are used4 ,the canned ones are excellent for the purpose4 ,pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press2 grate or pound very fine five or six bitter almonds2 mix with the pulp the juice of the apricots 7from the can71 and a pint and a half of syrup1 and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar2 stir all well1 and freeze4 ,this ice ought to be the color of apricots2 if too pale1 add a very little saffron coloring4 ,currant ,water-,ice4--,a pint of currant juice1 a pint of syrup1 and the whites of three eggs made into meringue paste4 ,freeze as usual4 ,any of these water-ices can be half frozen as graniti1 and served in glasses as granito1 the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio water-ices4 ,graniti are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water4 ,any summer beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a granito1 by half freezing1 in either of the following ways3 ,to ,freeze ,graniti4--,mix the beverage you intend to freeze1 for instance1 we will say1 a pint of very strong1 clear1 bright coffee and half a pint of syrup a lisse4 ,put them into the freezer and turn2 as it becomes frozen up the sides1 scrape it down with a spoon1 and remember1 as soon as it resembles snowy water 7not white1 of course7 it is frozen enough4 ,it must be just liquid enough to pour out4 ,there is a second way of freezing graniti by which they can be put on the table in the vessel in which they were frozen4 ,place the mixture in wide-mouthed water-bottles1 twirl them round in ice and salt1 and1 as the contents become frozen on the inside of the bottle1 scrape down with a narrow wooden stick or spatula4 ,when frozen in perfection the bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals4 ,claret ,granito4--,to one pint of orangeade add a bottle of claret4 ,half freeze4 ,sherry ,granito4--,to one quart of lemonade add a bottle of sherry1 and freeze4 ,the housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet with in books on high-class cooking4 ,many of these can be sent for by mail1 and all1 of course1 by express2 but it will often not seem worth while to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack4 ,for this reason ,i give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations of liqueurs1 which1 however1 unless it were a question of economy1 it might not be worth while doing if within reach of stores4 ,curacoa4--,pare a dozen and a half of dead-ripe oranges so thin that you can see the knife pass under the rind2 pound one dram of finest cinnamon and half a dram of mace2 put them to steep for fifteen days in a gallon of pure alcohol1 shaking it every day4 ,make a clarified syrup of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed2 add this to the curacoa4 ,rub up in a mortar one dram of potash with a teaspoonful of the liqueur2 when well mixed add it1 and then do the same with a dram of alum4 ,shake well1 and in an hour or two filter through thin muslin4 ,it will be ready for use in a a week4 ,maraschino4--,bruise two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter almonds2 put them in a deep jar with the thin outer rind of twelve oranges and five lemons4 ,steep in one gallon of ,english gin or alcohol4 ,let the whole stand a fortnight1 then filter and bottle4 ,ratafia4--,blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots1 and when you have two ounces pound them1 and pour to them a quart of gin or alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons4 ,sweeten with a pound of white sugar-candy1 and leave the whole for two months2 then filter and bottle for use4 ,candied ,orange and ,lemon ,peels4--,these are invaluable both as decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes1 and as they are not always to be found except in the larger cities1 the method of preparing them is here given3 ,throw the peels into salt and water1 all pulp being removed1 but the white part must be left untouched2 in fact1 the thicker the peel the better for the purpose1 thin-skinned oranges being of no use for candying4 ,let them remain in the salt and water from nine days to three weeks2 then wash them1 put them on the fire in cold water1 and let them boil till perfectly tender1 yet they must not be mushy4 ,during the time they are boiling change the water until it no longer tastes salt4 ,lemon-peels may take from three to four hours' boiling1 orange-peels less2 but remember1 should the lemon-peel not be quite tender1 it will harden when it goes into syrup1 and instead of a rich sweetmeat there will be only woody chips4 ,drain the peels1 and make a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar4 ,let it boil five minutes2 then throw in the peels2 they must boil gently in this until they are clear and the syrup has become thick--almost boiled away1 in fact4 ,now make another syrup1 half a pint of water to two pounds of sugar2 let it boil till clear and till there is a short hair from the fork4 ,now put in the peels 7which must have been drained from the other syrup72 remove from the fire2 stir them round till the syrup looks whitish2 then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled4 ,both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process1 but they must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water1 nor must they be candied together1 or the distinctive flavors would be lost4 ,,xxix4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets4 ,under this head ,i intend to give a few sweets that seem to me unusually good1 although they may not always be novel1 except in manner of serving4 ,a compote of fruit has nothing new about it1 yet by the way in which it is served it may simply be stewed fruit1 or it may be a dish fit to find a place even in choice cookery4 ,in making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and color of the fruits4 ,in order to do this they must be quickly peeled and dipped into strong lemon juice and water1 and dropped into syrup in which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed4 ,pass the blade of the knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling4 ,peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling1 and 7unless they are allowed to get too soft7 the skins will be removed easily4 ,it will be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup to get tender1 while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to candy height4 ,apple ,compote ,no4 #a4--;,cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of water4 ,when they are quite soft strain the juice from them without squeezing2 put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a lemon 7the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen1 through it while paring71 together with the juice4 ,let this syrup boil for a minute2 skim it4 ,then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples2 core them2 let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender1 but not in danger of breaking4 ,take them up on a perforated skimmer4 ,when cold1 put the apples into a compote dish4 ,boil the juice to a jelly2 pour part of it over the apples2 dip a plate in cold water1 drain it1 and then pour out the rest of the jelly into it3 it should only cover it about the thickness of thick paper4 ,when stiff1 warm the under-side of the plate very slightly1 pass a broad thin knife under1 and lay the sheet of jelly over the apples in the compote dish4 ,apple ,compote ,no4 #b4--,prepare the apples as in last recipe1 but before the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves of angelica1 and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves1 stars1 or fancy shapes 7stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used72 decorate thus each apple2 then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all4 ,compote of ,stuffed ,apples4--,prepare the apples as in the foregoing recipes1 taking care to core them all through without splitting the apple4 ,when the apples are done1 fill the centre with orange marmalade or apricot preserve4 ,boil the syrup down till it will glaze2 pour it over the apples when they are ice-cold1 the syrup also only warm enough to remain liquid4 ,by this means the rich coating will remain over the apples1 while if both were warm it would run off4 ,compote of ,apples or ,pears ,grille4--,if you have any apples or pears left from a compote 7or you may1 of course1 prepare them especially71 put them into a frying or saute pan over a brisk fire2 put with them any syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water2 boil rapidly down to a pale caramel1 rolling the apples with a fork so that they become covered with the caramel4 ,take great care that the syrup does not burn2 remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change color4 ,the apples should now have an even glossy surface2 as each is finished put it at once into the compotier4 ,pour a little curacoa syrup round just before sending to table4 ,compote of ,apple ,marmalade4--,this is not so troublesome to make as it sounds1 especially to any one who has made glace nuts--a very general accomplishment nowadays4 ,reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for an hour or two in a double boiler2 the water boiling round it will evaporate moisture without danger of burning4 ,stir occasionally1 and when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when cold 7try a little in a saucer on ice71 color one half pink with cochineal4 ,spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled2 when stiff and cold1 cut out the marmalade into squares1 ovals1 diamonds1 leaves1 etc41 with tin cutters4 ,boil a pound of sugar with a gill of water to the crack--that is1 until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water will crack between the teeth4 ,oil a fork and a large dish1 and use the fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy2 lift them out quickly1 and lay them on the dish1 which will be better if it is set on ice4 ,when they are cold1 dish them in a pyramid1 the pink to contrast with the white effectively4 ,pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round the base of the fruit4 ,compote of ,pears 7white74--,use any fine-flavored dessert pears4 ,cut them in halves1 core1 pare1 and trim neatly1 and simmer them in syrup 7a pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water7 till they are tender1 yet firm to the touch4 ,dish the pieces1 keeping them close to each other4 ,lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them1 and the syrup1 boiled down till rich and thick1 round them4 ,a ,pink ,compote is prepared in the same way1 the only difference being that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the pears go in4 ,decorate with angelica4 ,pears a la ,princesse4 ,select seven pears of the best quality1 without blemish1 and of equal size2 pare them with great care2 stand them close together in a saucepan1 with weak acidulated syrup to cover them2 simmer slowly till quite tender1 but yet firm to the touch2 take them up1 leaving the syrup to boil down4 ,when cold1 cut the stalk end off each pear about an inch deep1 or so as to leave about an inch of surface1 on which place a ring of angelica 7simply cut angelica crosswise and it forms rings1 being tubular72 if the rings are flattened1 lay them in syrup2 when softened bend them round and lay one on each pear2 then1 if in season1 dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup and lay it on the ring of angelica4 ,cut strips of angelica and run them through the strawberry down to the pear1 both to hold the decoration in place and to represent the stalk2 dish them standing2 when dished up1 pour some syrup1 boiled till thick and rich1 over the seven pears4 ,when fresh fruit is not in season for decoration1 use candied cherries4 ,variegated ,compote of ,pears4--,this is a pretty dish4 ,prepare some pears as in the last recipe1 except that the tops are not to be cut off2 color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to the syrup in which they are simmered2 dress them alternately1 a pink pear and a white one1 in the compotier2 pour over each the pink and white syrup in which they were cooked1 and pour syrup flavored with vanilla round them4 ,compote of ,oranges4--,divide six oranges in halves2 first cut out the centre string of pith1 pick all pips out carefully1 and with a very sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked transparent pulp2 in this way you get rid of the whole of the white outside skin4 ,place the halves as you do them in a bowl2 pour over them some hot syrup boiled a lisse1 flavored with orange peel1 rubbed with lump sugar1 and previously dissolved in the syrup2 a very little lemon juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet4 ,let them steep a few minutes2 then remove them2 then build the oranges into a pyramid on the compotier1 and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup1 well boiled and cold1 over them4 ,chestnut ,compote4--,take the largest ,french or ,spanish chestnuts1 make slits in the peel1 and boil till tender2 take off the shell1 and press them flat without breaking2 lay them in a saucepan2 pour over them thick syrup2 put them in the oven1 but do not let them boil2 when they look quite clear take them up1 put them into the compotier1 boil the syrup to candy height1 squeeze into the compotier the juice of an orange1 and pour the candy over the chestnuts4 ,chestnut ,compote ,no4 #b4--,prepare the nuts as in last recipe2 put the yolks of three eggs in a saucepan2 stir gradually to them a pint of cream2 cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack1 with a few dried orange flowers2 the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it into the cream1 stirring constantly1 and let it come to boiling-point2 then strain the cream over the chestnuts4 ,,xxx4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets4--,continued4 ,strawberries1 raspberries1 currants1 etc41 need very little cooking1 and that little in high candy4 ,if it is understood that strong syrup tends to make fruit firm1 and weak syrup to make it tender1 it will be seen why all soft fruit1 in order to keep its shape1 should be dropped into candy boiled till brittle1 and why apples and other hard fruits should be first stewed in weak syrup until soft2 yet there are degrees2 for instance1 hard peaches require thin syrup1 and very luscious ones must be put into syrup that is very near candy4 ,this is also the case with pears4 ,be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit4 ,avoid fruit that is very ripe1 because the syrup from it will not jelly readily4 ,compote of ,strawberries4--,select a quart of fine large berries1 rather under than over ripe2 boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to the crack2 drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the fire2 return them to the range2 let them boil gently once2 take out the berries most carefully with the skimmer2 lay them on the compotier2 boil the syrup fast1 skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit4 ,compote of ,cherries is made in the same way1 with the finest red cherries1 only they require to boil up several times4 ,when clear1 drain them with the skimmer2 lay them in the compote dishes2 add a gill of red currant juice to the syrup2 boil it till it is a weak jelly2 then throw it over the cherries when nearly cold4 ,orange ,baskets ,filled with ,fruits4--,select seven oranges1 not too large1 but all the same size4 ,with a very sharp knife pare the fruit as thin as possible--so thin that it still remains yellow1 and only the shining outer surface is removed 7in fact1 it may be lightly grated off1 but that is more trouble71 to render them transparent2 cut two quarters out of the upper part of the orange1 so as to leave a narrow band half an inch wide1 which will form the handle2 pass the knife carefully round inside the band1 so as to remove the strip of pulp4 ,with the bowl of a teaspoon detach the remaining pulp from the inside without in any way damaging the shape of the basket4 ,as you prepare them1 drop them in a saucepan of cold water1 and then put them into boiling water1 and simmer three minutes gently4 ,this is only to soften the peel and enable you to stamp out the edges with a perforating cutter1 if you have one1 which will give them an openwork effect2 if not1 just scallop them with scissors1 and snip out a sort of trellis-work to increase the basket effect4 ,put them into a preserving-kettle with weak syrup a lisse1 boil them gently till they look clear1 then put them aside in the syrup till next day2 boil the syrup twice alone at intervals of several hours1 and throw it over the baskets4 ,these baskets may be kept ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them with syrup4 ,when required for use1 they must be taken out1 drained thoroughly1 and then filled with a variety of small fruits1 such as cherries1 strawberries1 currants1 etc41 which have been mixed with a little apple or orange jelly4 ,in winter1 ambrosia--a mixture of cut-up banana1 grated cocoa-nut1 orange quarters1 etc4--may be served in them1 or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm1 such as ,chinese oranges1 limes1 ginger1 etc4 ,in all cases serve them on a compote dish1 and throw over them syrup flavored with maraschino4 ,lemon ,baskets are prepared precisely as the orange baskets1 but they require longer boiling1 and the syrup they are served with should be flavored with citronelle or the rasped peel of green limes4 ,orange ,baskets ,glace4--,these are not much more trouble than the baskets simply preserved1 but if successfully done they can be very effectively filled with candies or ice-cream4 ,prepare the baskets as in last recipe1 drain them on a napkin1 very carefully remove all moisture from the inside1 and set them over a register1 or in an oven with the door open1 to dry4 ,boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color 7this is some little time after the brittle stage is reached1 and is called caramel72 lightly oil the skimmer1 and drop a basket in the candy2 remove as quickly as possible1 but see that the whole is well coated1 yet has as little superfluous candy as possible1 for which reason the baskets must be warm when they are dipped1 also the skimmer4 ,you must not leave the candy on the fire after it begins to change color1 but the work of coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire1 with the pot containing the candy on some part of it where it will be kept hot1 but not cook4 ,they must be slipped on to an oiled dish1 and1 needless to say1 most carefully handled4 ,other baskets are made with nougat1 others with pastry1 and the ,swiss make what they call ,vacherin with almond paste1 and serve whipped cream in them2 but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving dried fruits or candies1 or ice-cream in them1 and they are a decided improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose1 being eatable4 ,swiss ,vacherin4--,take half a pound of almond paste1 three quarters of a pound of confectioners' sugar1 and the white of one egg4 ,shave the almond paste1 stir the egg and sugar together1 and flavor with a little orange-flower water or wine2 work all together with the hand into a smooth1 stiff paste that will roll out2 if there is a disposition to crack or crumble1 use more white of egg and almond paste4 ,roll it just as you would pie crust on the pastry board1 using confectioners' sugar in place of flour4 ,line small cups or tartlet moulds1 or anything that will make a good form for baskets1 which have been very slightly oiled4 ,put them aside to harden and dry4 ,chop a tablespoonful of blanched pistachio-nuts till they are as fine as corn-meal1 mix with an equal quantity of granulated sugar4 ,trim the edges of the cups or baskets with scissors1 turn them out of the moulds1 very carefully dip the edges in a saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid--the edges only need to be just wet4 ,have the chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar also in a saucer1 dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it1 and shake gently4 ,if properly done1 the cups will now have a pretty green border4 ,when these are filled with whipped cream1 sweetened1 flavored1 and colored1 they are called ,swiss ,vacherin4 ,filled with plain whipped cream1 and the top covered with strawberries1 they are called ,chantilly cups1 but they may be used in many decorative ways1 to hold preserves or candied fruits1 etc41 etc4 ,little ,china ,dishes4--,this quaint recipe is from the immortal ,mrs4 ,glasse1 and on trial was found so unique and agreeable a variety to our modern fancies that with some little changes to suit our present ideas ,i give the last-century dainty4 ,if you have any pretty-shaped little tin dishes1 without fluting1 to mould and bake them in1 they are very little trouble to make4 ,take the yolks of two eggs1 two small tablespoonfuls of sherry1 and one of rose-water1 beat together only enough to mix1 then use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out exceedingly thin4 ,cover some nicely shaped little tins slightly buttered1 press to the form1 be careful the paste fits without creases1 and bake in a cool oven4 ,when the paste is crisp1 with very little change of color1 they are done4 ,do not touch them till they are cold1 as they may be brittle4 ,stir the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of rose-water and confectioners' sugar enough to make a smooth icing2 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon1 and when the little dishes are cold1 ice the under side only just thick enough to mask the pastry2 when they are dry and hard1 turn them over and ice the inside2 do this with great smoothness1 to look as much like porcelain as possible4 ,if you choose1 when the icing is quite hard1 you can wet the edge of the dishes with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar1 like the ,chantilly baskets1 or in nonpareils 7the smallest size74 ,they may be used to serve anything sweet1 from jelly to candies4 ,almond ,trifles4--,with the almond paste used for ,chantilly cups many trifles may be made with very little trouble2 for instance1 mix a tablespoonful of flour with the paste2 roll it out2 cut into circles2 pinch up two sides2 place a little handle over the centre1 and in each open end1 which must be bent slightly upward1 place a candied cherry4 ,or cut a number of thin strips of paste1 stick them together in the middle with white of egg1 pass a strip of almond paste round so that the strips look like fagots of sticks1 let them just color in the oven1 sift sugar over them1 and put them away4 ,the paste may be rolled as thick as a pipe-stem and tied in knots1 the surface just moistened1 and sugar sifted over them2 these also must only just take color in the oven4 ,these are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups4 ,,xxxi4 ,,miscellaneous ,,sweets4--,continued4 ,raspberry ,charlotte ,russe4--,the simplest and quite the most effective way of making charlottes of any kind is the following3 ,take a strip of light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide1 measure it round a mould the size you wish the charlotte to be1 and cut it an inch larger2 piece the two ends together1 lapping an inch4 ,lay this paper circle on an ornamental dish 7the one you wish to use71 split lady-fingers1 and stand them around it inside like a picket-fence1 only as close together as they will go1 inserting a pin from the outside through the paper and each cake as you do it4 ,when you have lined the paper completely you will have a close frame of lady-fingers held in place by pins4 ,whip a pint of perfectly sweet cream that is at least twenty-four hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice4 ,sweeten the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 and flavor it with a tablespoonful of raspberry juice 7not syrup7 mixed with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar2 sometimes the raspberry juice will color the cream a beautiful faint pink1 which cannot be improved upon1 but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of cochineal4 ,if the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream in ice2 then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises4 ,in about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if all the conditions were observed1 and the beating carried on in a cool1 airy room4 ,if1 however1 the cream is not solid enough to keep shape1 set it on ice for an hour and beat again4 ,fill the centre of the frame of lady-fingers1 piling it high2 decorate either with chopped pistachio-nuts lightly sprinkled1 or with rings of angelica4 ,the raspberry juice used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class druggists'1 where the best quality of soda-water is sold4 ,it is unsweetened1 and although ,i have kept it two or three months in cool weather1 it often will not keep many weeks2 it is therefore better to buy it by the gill or half-pint1 if your druggist will sell it so1 than to buy a large bottle1 although it is so useful for making raspberry jelly1 raspberry shrub1 and many other things1 that even a bottle is not likely to be wasted4 ,it must not be confused with raspberry syrup1 which is heavily sweetened1 but not nearly so fragrant4 ,before serving the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off4 ,charlotte ,russe with ,gelatine4--,prepare a frame as in last recipe1 also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavored with wine or to taste2 melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatine4 ,the ,french gelatine is very pure1 easy to melt1 and no more expensive than any other good kind1 and for delicate uses preferable to them4 ,make the gelatine and milk into a custard with two eggs1 sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 flavor to taste1 and put to get cold1 stirring it once in a while2 when it begins to thicken round the sides of the vessel beat with the egg-beater till foamy4 ,you have now a vessel of whipped custard and one of whipped cream1 both cold2 now mix the cream into the custard1 a little at a time1 giving the spoon a light upward movement2 do not stir it2 that deadens the cream2 your object is to keep it light2 when all is mixed1 fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture2 decorate it either with drops and pipings of the mixture applied to the smooth surface1 or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored jellies4 ,of course a charlotte russe can be varied in many ways4 ,it may be filled with the custard made with chocolate1 and so be brown charlotte1 or the filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the gelatine2 this is an admirable change4 ,almond ,turban4--,make half a pound of fine puff-paste1 give it nine turns1 roll it the last time to the thickness of a dollar2 have ready half a pound of almonds1 blanched and chopped2 put them in a bowl with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs1 adding a very little more if the icing is too stiff to spread2 spread the almond icing on the pastry as thick as a twenty-five-cent piece2 with a sharp knife cut the pastry into strips two and a half inches long and one in breadth2 bake these in a moderate oven a very pale brown2 make a circle on a dish of some firm marmalade or jam2 when the almond cakes are cold1 dress them in a crown on the jam1 which serves to keep them in place2 fill the centre of the turban with vanilla ice-cream or simple whipped cream4 ,fine ,small ,cakes for ,dessert4--,it may not be worth the while of a busy housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner's to make these1 because1 although when of fine quality they are always expensive1 yet they are also tedious to make4 ,many1 however1 live in country towns1 where there is no possibility of obtaining anything better than the sandy products of the country bakery4 ,a few really fine cakes can be made at a time1 and kept in an air-tight box1 with layers of paper between1 for some time4 ,in speaking1 however1 of the tediousness ,i would not discourage the reader1 for there are few more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out1 making1 and baking of thin cookies or ginger-snaps1 and the result attained so inadequate4 ,rout ,biscuits4--,boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk2 grate into it the rind of a lemon when cold2 rub half a pound of butter into a pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste grated fine2 put as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver dime into the milk1 and mix with the flour and almond paste2 beat two eggs1 and make the whole into a firm1 smooth paste2 print this paste with very small butter moulds if you have them1 making little cakes just like the tiny pats of butter one gets at city restaurants4 ,bake on a well-buttered pan in a quick oven a very pale yellow4 ,macaroons4--,these must be exempted from the charge of being tedious1 they are so easily and quickly made4 ,one pound of almond paste grated1 one pound and a half of sugar1 and the whites of seven eggs4 ,some confectioners use a teaspoonful of flour1 with the idea that the macaroons are not so apt to fall4 ,i recommend a trial of both methods2 they will both be good4 ,stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs together just enough to mix1 then by degrees add the grated paste1 mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste4 ,oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking-pans4 ,dripping-pans may be used if you have no regular baking-sheets4 ,lay a sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan4 ,put half a teaspoonful of the macaroon paste on a scrap of buttered paper in the oven4 ,if it spreads too much it requires a very little more sugar2 if it does not spread at all1 or so little as to leave the surface rough1 it is too stiff1 and requires perhaps half the white of an egg1 or the finger dipped in water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often sufficient--a little practice is all that is necessary4 ,lay the paste in half-teaspoonfuls on the oiled or greased paper4 ,if the trial one indicated that they were slightly too stiff1 lay a wet finger on each1 sift powdered sugar over1 and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched almonds in the centre with just enough pressure to keep them in place4 ,as the macaroon spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves4 ,macaroons should be baked about twenty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,they must be taken out while they are a very pale brown1 but they must also be quite set1 or they will fall4 ,if the oven is too quick they will brown too soon2 in that case leave the oven door open1 taking care that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons4 ,you can tell if they have browned too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and sticky4 ,when done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale color4 ,the macaroons must be left five minutes in the pan after leaving the oven without being touched4 ,at the end of that time they may be gently taken off the pans on the papers1 from which they must not be detached until they are quite cold4 ,should they stick to the paper1 moisten the back of it4 ,fine ,ginger ,dessert ,cakes4--,rub half a pound of fresh butter into three quarters of a pound of flour2 beat three eggs with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rosewater1 the grated peel of a lemon1 and a teaspoonful of the best powdered ginger--use the ginger carefully1 trying a level spoonful first4 ,then mix all into a paste4 ,if the flavor of ginger is not strong enough1 add more2 they should taste well of it1 without being hot in the mouth4 ,roll the paste a quarter of an inch thick1 and cut into small oval or round cakes1 sift powdered sugar over them1 and bake rather slowly a very pale brown4 ,,xxxii4 ,,fine ,,cakes ,,and ,,sauces4 ,madeleines4--,four ounces of butter1 four ounces of the best flour1 three ounces of sugar1 a teaspoonful of orange-flower water1 the yolks of four eggs1 and rind of a lemon4 ,beat butter1 sugar1 and yolks of eggs together1 then add the other ingredients2 grate in the rind of half a lemon1 and add the well-beaten whites of eggs last of all4 ,fill little moulds that have been buttered with washed butter1 cover the tops with split almonds and sifted sugar2 bake from thirty to forty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,these cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce4 ,chestnut ,croquettes4--,boil fifty sound chestnuts2 take them out of the shells2 reject all imperfect ones2 keep the large pieces aside2 pound the crumbs and most broken pieces with an ounce of butter till very smooth2 then mix in a small cup of cream two ounces of butter and one ounce of powdered sugar2 put the whole into a double boiler1 and stir in the beaten yolks of six eggs4 ,let the mixture set4 ,when cool1 make it into balls2 in the centre of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you have laid aside1 dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs1 and fry a very pale yellow4 ,serve with sifted sugar4 ,very pretty cakes1 very easily made1 which come under the ,french term petits fours1 may be given here4 ,petits ,fours4--,make rich cake mixture thus3 ,wash three quarters of a pound of butter to free it from excess of salt2 squeeze it dry in a cloth2 beat it with the hand till creamy2 add three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar2 beat till light2 then beat in ten eggs1 one by one1 and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour4 ,when all are well beaten together1 the paste or batter is ready for use4 ,line some shallow pans 7those used for making rolled jelly-cake are best7 with buttered paper2 spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly-cake1 but much thicker1 as when baked the sheets should not be more than the third of an inch thick4 ,bake slowly4 ,when done1 remove from the oven1 but leave the cake undisturbed till cold4 ,if the sheets are large1 they may be cut exactly in half1 spread thinly with some stiff marmalade or jelly2 quince or apricot is best1 but any rich flavor with some tartness will do2 lay one half on the other1 and press closely and very neatly together4 ,do each sheet of cake in the same way1 varying the marmalade if you choose4 ,have ready a bowl of icing 7either boiled ,french icing or what is called royal icing74 ,dust the top of the cakes with flour1 which must be brushed off again1 as it is only to absorb the grease4 ,flavor the icing with vanilla1 and lay it on the centre of the cake2 let it run over it1 aiding with a knife dipped in water 7shaking off the drops1 however74 ,the icing needs to be very neatly done1 and must not be thicker than a twenty-five-cent piece4 ,now color the icing in the bowl pink1 with a little cochineal1 add a drop or two of extract of bitter almond or of lemon1 either of which will agree with the vanilla that was in the white icing2 then ice another sheet of cake in the same way2 a third may be done with chocolate icing4 ,the beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they are cut4 ,you may choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long1 or in lozenge shape--the true diamond--but in either case the cutting must be exact4 ,the best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with the point of a penknife on the icing1 using a measure4 ,trim off the edge of the cake with a sharp knife1 so that it is neat all round1 no excess of marmalade oozing out1 or tears of icing running down4 ,then warm a sharp carving-knife 7,i am supposing the cake is on a board71 and cut through the lines you have marked1 without hesitation1 so that there may be no crumbs or roughness1 which slow1 over-careful cutting causes4 ,when cut up you should have1 if neatly done1 an assortment of very delicious and ornamental cakes4 ,,french ,,sweet ,,sauces ,,for ,,puddings1 ,,etc4 ,sauce ,madere a la ,marmalade4--,a half-pound of apricot marmalade2 half a tumbler of ,madeira or sherry2 boil three minutes1 then pass through a sieve1 and serve as sauce to soufflees1 cabinet puddings1 etc4 ,sauce des ,oeufs au ,kirsch4--,beat the yolks of eight eggs1 put them in a saucepan with half a tumbler of kirsch1 five ounces of powdered sugar1 and half the rind of a lemon grated4 ,stir all in a double boiler till the mixture sticks to the spoon2 then remove from the boiling water2 stir for a minute to prevent curdling2 then it is ready to serve4 ,chaudeau ,sauce4--,take two whole eggs1 six yolks of eggs1 and eight lumps of sugar 7each one rubbed on lemon-peel71 two pints of ,chablis1 and the juice of half a lemon2 beat them over a slow fire in a double boiler till a light froth is formed2 be very careful the eggs do not curdle when the boiling-point is reached2 take the sauce off the fire1 and continue beating for a minute or two4 ,if small streaks appear on the froth the sauce is done4 ,stir in a tablespoonful of fine rum1 and the sauce is ready to serve4 ,sherry ,sauce for ,puddings4--,six yolks of eggs1 one ounce of sugar1 half a pint of sherry1 and the thin peel of a lemon4 ,beat the eggs with the sugar2 when the wine is warm1 stir them into it 7let the lemon-peel steep in the wine while warming72 stir all together till as thick as cream2 then remove from the fire1 and take out the peel4 ,in making all these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making custard4 ,wine ,sauce1 ,no4 #b4--,three gills of water1 one cup of sugar1 one teaspoonful of corn-starch1 and one gill of wine4 ,mix the corn-starch with a little water2 pour the rest boiling to it1 stirring till smooth2 then add the sugar1 and boil for five minutes2 then add the wine and a few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon4 ,use these flavorings drop by drop1 as they differ in strength too much for an exact quantity to be given1 and the taste must be the guide4 ,rum or brandy may be used instead of wine2 then the cinnamon is omitted4 ,apricot ,sauces4--,half a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade2 dissolve it in three quarters of a gill of water with the juice of a lemon2 stir in three quarters of a gill of rum4 ,this sauce is simply made hot1 not boiled1 and may be served cold with ,baba or ,savarin cake4 ,greengage marmalade may be substituted4 ,whipped ,sweet ,sauce4--,put the yolks of four eggs into a double saucepan with two ounces of sugar1 one glass of sherry1 the juice of one lemon1 and a speck of salt2 beat all together2 then set the saucepan over the fire1 and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth1 when it is ready to serve4 ,very ,fine ,sweet ,butter ,sauce4--,wash four ounces of butter2 squeeze it dry2 beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar2 then put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl2 stir it a minute1 then add to it a little of the hard sauce2 when well mixed add more1 about a teaspoonful at a time2 when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of eggs1 stir in by degrees a wineglass of brandy or rum4 ,keep on ice till wanted4 ,vanilla ,cream ,sauce4--,put half a pint of fresh cream to boil1 reserving a tablespoonful2 mix this with a teaspoonful of flour2 stir it into the cream1 with a tablespoonful of sugar1 when near boiling2 when it boils1 stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler2 then pour out the sauce1 and stir in a small teaspoonful of vanilla and a few drops of extract of rose or a teaspoonful of rose-water4 ,observe that the rose is used to give a different tone to the vanilla1 and not to impart its own flavor1 therefore very little must be used4 ,almond ,sauce4--,dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler 7the almond paste should be grated first72 when both are hot1 add a tablespoonful of sugar and the yolk of an egg2 stir till the egg thickens1 then remove from the fire and serve4 ,,xxxiii4 ,,salads ,,and ,,cheese ,,dishes4 ,salad has come to form part of even the simplest dinners2 and certainly cold meat and salad and excellent bread and butter make a meal by no means to be despised even by an epicure1 while cold meat and bread and butter sound very untempting4 ,the best dinner salad will perhaps always be white1 crisp lettuce1 with a simple ,french dressing1 although1 to those acquainted with it1 escarole runs it hard1 with its cool1 watery ribs and crisp leaves4 ,elaborate salads1 or those dressed with mayonnaise1 are too heavy to form the latter part of an already sufficiently nourishing meal1 but for luncheons and suppers the rich salad is invaluable4 ,salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may be a crisp white cabbage lettuce1 water-cress1 ,romaine lettuce1 or that most delicious form of endive1 escarole4 ,the dressing should be the simple ,french dressing1 about which so much has been written and said1 and which is so easy that perhaps it is one reason why so few make it well4 ,there is nothing to remember beyond the proportions1 and so many keep the quantity of oil1 vinegar1 and pepper and salt in mind1 but the manner of using them seems of no consequence2 but it is of so much consequence1 if you do not want the vinegar on the leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl1 that1 well known as the formula is1 ,i am going over it again with a few details that may help to fix the matter in mind4 ,in the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil1 therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is sent to table4 ,this is best done by swinging it in a salad basket1 and then spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes4 ,now it must be quite evident1 if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil1 that one wet with vinegar will do the same2 for this reason the leaves should be covered with oil before the vinegar is added1 or the salad will be crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the following way3 ,take lettuce as the example1 although any of those mentioned are made in the same way4 ,have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl1 put in the salad-spoon a saltspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of pepper1 and1 holding it over the bowl1 fill the spoon with oil2 mix the salt and pepper well with it1 and turn it over the salad2 toss the salad lightly over and over till the leaves glisten1 then add two 7if for epicures1 three or four7 more spoonfuls of oil1 then toss again over and over till every leaf is well coated with oil2 then sprinkle in a saladspoonful of sharp vinegar4 ,toss again1 and the salad is ready4 ,one salad less well known than it deserves to be is that made from the grape fruit4 ,this is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast1 when cool1 refreshing things are in order4 ,many tell me they have tried to eat grape fruit1 but find it quite impossible on account of the intense bitter4 ,there is a very slight and pleasant bitter with grape fruit when properly prepared1 but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the whole4 ,grape-fruit ,salad4--,prepare the fruit1 some hours before it is wanted1 in the following way3 ,cut the fruit in four as you would an orange2 separate the sections2 then remove the pulp from each1 taking care that no white pith or skin adheres to it4 ,put the pulp on the ice until just before serving2 then dress with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for lettuce1 etc4 ,meat or fish salads should always be dressed with mayonnaise4 ,i say nothing of the well-known lobster and chicken salads1 which are so general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know how excellent some other combination salads are4 ,salmon salad--the fish flaked1 laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves1 and masked with mayonnaise1 with a garnish of aspic--is both handsome and delicious2 but cold halibut1 or even cod--any firm fish that flakes1 in fact--make delightful salads1 and acceptable to many who cannot eat lobster4 ,in the way of meat salads1 partridge or grouse are far daintier than chicken1 prepared in just the same way4 ,there is one point1 however1 which should be observed in making all meat salads3 it is that the material should be well dressed with oil1 vinegar1 and condiments before the mayonnaise is put on4 ,usually one of two courses is followed3 either the meat is left dry1 the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient1 or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it4 ,in the latter case the salad is far too rich2 in the former it is flat1 because mayonnaise1 if rightly made1 has not acidity enough to flavor the meat2 therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be bathed with ,french dressing before it is masked4 ,with these general rules any salad may be made2 but as variety is the spice of the table1 it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of mint1 very finely chopped1 gives a fragrance to lettuce1 as does chervil or borage1 parsley1 or a tiny bit of onion4 ,to a game salad nothing should be added4 ,no recipe is needed for mayonnaise1 it having been given in the chapter on cold sauces4 ,in the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given1 but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and salad course1 where it constitutes part of the dinner1 which ,i will include4 ,cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in ,europe1 but there are families whose masculine members eat no sweets1 and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable4 ,genoa ,ramaquin4--,cut a slice of ,vienna or other baker's bread1 half an inch thick1 lengthwise of the loaf1 so that it covers the bottom of a fire-proof dish--a souffle pan well buttered is excellent2 beat two eggs and half a pint of milk together2 add a level saltspoonful of salt2 pour this custard over the bread1 and leave it an hour to soak4 ,pour off any custard that may not be absorbed2 dust the bread with pepper2 then cover with the following mixture3 dissolve as much rich cheese shaved in half a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick1 stirring it over a slow fire4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and pour the cheese over the bread4 ,put it in the oven1 and bake for half an hour1 or till quite brown4 ,cheese ,puffs4--,line patty-pans with puff-paste1 and fill three parts full with the following mixture3 put a gill of cream in a double boiler with two ounces of grated cheese 7half ,parmesan if liked71 a saltspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper1 a pinch of sugar1 and a large teaspoonful of butter2 when all is melted to a thick custard1 break into it two eggs well whipped4 ,the mixture is only to be made hot enough to melt the cheese1 not to boil4 ,cheese ,sticks4--,take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a teacup1 roll it out on a pastry-board1 spread it with bits of firm butter1 dredge with flour1 fold and roll1 repeat until you have rolled in two ounces of butter1 just as for puff-paste2 now roll the pastry out the third of an inch thick1 cut into strips half an inch wide and any length you think proper1 lay them very straight on a baking-sheet1 and bake slowly a very light brown2 remove from the oven1 let them cool1 then brush them over with white of egg1 and roll them thickly in grated ,parmesan2 return for a minute or two to the oven4 ,these are very good with salad1 but cannot easily be made in warm weather4 ,should the pastry get too soft while rolling1 put it on ice1 and it is better to do so at all times before cutting into strips1 so that the sticks may be quite straight4 ,,index4 ,allemande ,sauce1 #ah4 ,almond ,cream1 #bbi1 #bea2 ,sauce1 #bii2 ,trifles1 #bgi2 ,turban1 #bhe2 ,water-ice1 #bee4 ,apple ,jelly1 #bab2 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#ac-cb4 ,bordelaise1 #cg4 ,brown1 #cc-da4 ,caper1 #bi4 ,cardinal1 #cj4 ,celery1 #bi4 ,chateaubriand1 #cd4 ,chaudfroid1 #afj1 #afa4 ,cold ,cucumber1 #dh4 ,cold ,sauces1 #db-ej4 ,consistency of1 #bd1 #aje4 ,cucumber1 #bi4 ,des ,oeufs au ,kirsch1 #bie4 ,downton1 #ci4 ,espagnole1 #cc4 ,green ,mayonnaise1 #df4 ,hollandaise1 #cj4 ,horseradish1 #dh4 ,how to stir1 #ag4 ,light ,normande1 #ci4 ,lobster1 #bi4 ,madere a la ,marmalade1 #bie4 ,matelote1 #dj4 ,mayonnaise1 #dc1 #df1 #dg4 ,mint1 #di4 ,mother ,sauces1 #f4 ,norwegian1 #dg4 ,orange1 #ci4 ,oyster1 #bi4 ,parsley1 #bi4 ,piquante1 #ce4 ,poivrade1 #cf4 ,poulette1 #bj4 ,red ,mayonnaise1 #df4 ,robert1 #ch4 ,rule for seasoning1 #ah4 ,sherry1 #bif4 ,shrimp1 #bi1 #cj4 ,soubise1 #bg4 ,ste4 ,menehould1 #be4 ,supreme1 #bc4 ,sweet ,butter1 very fine1 #bih4 ,sweet1 ,french1 for ,puddings1 #bie-bii4 ,tartare1 #dh4 ,vanilla ,cream1 #bih4 ,veloute1 or ,white1 #ad4 ,villeroi1 #ba4 ,wine1 #bif4 ,whipped ,sweet1 #big4 ,white1 #bc-cb4 ,sauteing1 #ie1 #if4 ,scalloped ,potatoes1 #bje4 ,scallops of ,chicken1 #acj4 ,sherry ,granito1 #beh2 ,sauce1 #bif4 ,shrimp ,sauce1 #bi1 #cj4 ,sole1 a l',horly1 #ff2 a la ,normande1 #fe2 ,rouennaise1 #fg4 ,soubise ,sauce1 #bg2 with ,grenadines of ,rabbit1 #adi4 ,souffle of ,chicken1 #aca2 of ,lobster1 #fb2 of ,partridges1 #adf2 of ,tomato1 #bjf4 ,soups1 #ea-fj4 ,chestnut1 #eg4 ,consomme a la ,rachel1 #eb4 ,consomme a la ,sevigne1 #ee4 ,potage a la ,hollandaise1 #ef4 ,potage a la ,royale1 #ei4 ,princess1 #eh4 ,to clear ,consomme1 #ea4 ,spanish ,onion1 #bjd4 ,spices and herbs required1 #ab4 ,spinach ,fritters1 #bjf2 ,juice1 #aib4 ,ste4 ,menehould ,sauce1 #be4 ,stock1 #g2 to reduce to ,glaze1 #h4 ,strawberries1 how to cook1 #bga2 ,compote of1 #bgb4 ,strawberry ,cream1 #bbg4 ,stuffed ,artichokes1 #aig2 ,cucumbers1 #aii4 ,sucking ,pig1 ,ballotines of1 #agi4 ,supreme ,sauce1 #bc4 ,sweet ,sauce for ,puddings1 #bie-bii4 ,sweetbreads a la ,supreme1 #ajc2 au ,montpellier1 #aec2 braised1 #aac2 ,cutlets of1 #aji2 in ,cases1 #ajf2 ,patties1 #abj2 with ,oysters1 #ajd4 ,sweets1 #bfb-bhj4 ,almond ,trifles1 #bgi4 ,almond ,turban1 #bhe4 ,charlotte ,russe with ,gelatine1 #bhc4 ,compote of ,apple ,marmalade1 #bfe4 ,compote of ,apples or ,pears ,grille1 #bfe4 ,compote of ,cherries1 #bgb4 ,compote of ,oranges1 #bfi4 ,compote of ,pears1 #bff4 ,compote of ,strawberries1 #bgb4 ,compote of ,stuffed ,apples1 #bfd4 ,compotes of ,apple1 #bfc1 #bfd4 ,compotes of ,chestnuts1 #bfi1 #bgj4 ,fine ,small ,dessert ,cakes1 #bhe4 ,ginger ,dessert ,cakes1 #bhi4 ,lemon ,baskets1 #bgd4 ,little ,china ,dishes1 #bgh4 ,macaroons1 #bhg4 ,orange ,baskets filled with fruit1 #bgb4 ,orange ,basket ,glace1 #bgd4 ,pears a la ,princesse1 #bfg4 ,pink ,compote1 #bfg4 ,raspberry ,charlotte ,russe1 #bha4 ,rout ,biscuits1 #bhe4 ,swiss ,vacherin1 #bgf4 ,variegated ,compote of ,pears1 #bfh4 ,tartare ,sauce1 #dh4 ,teal with ,anchovies1 #adh4 ,timbale of ,chicken1 #abi4 ,timbales d',epinard1 #aea4 ,tomato ,jelly1 #bje2 ,souffle1 #bjf4 ,tomatoes and ,mushrooms1 #bjj4 ,trifles1 ,almond1 #bgi4 ,turban1 ,almond1 #bhe4 ,turbans of ,sole1 #fg4 ,uneatable decorations1 #aif4 ,vacherin1 ,swiss1 #bgf4 ,vanilla ,cream1 #bbg2 ,cream ,sauce1 #bih4 ,variegated ,compote of ,pears1 #bfh4 ,veal ,cutlets a la ,primrose1 #aci4 ,vegetables1 #aig-bjg4 ,a few ways of cooking1 #aig4 ,beet-root ,fritters1 #aih4 ,cauliflower ,fritters1 #aih4 ,fried ,artichokes1 #aih4 ,milanese ,potatoes1 #bje4 ,mushroom ,baskets1 #bja4 ,mushroom ,jelly1 #bjj4 ,mushrooms and ,tomatoes1 #bjj4 ,mushrooms stuffed a la ,lucullus1 #bjj4 ,potatoes a la ,provencale1 #bjd4 ,scalloped ,potatoes1 #bje4 ,spanish or ,portuguese ,onion1 #bjb1 #bjc4 ,spinach ,fritters1 #bjf4 ,stuffed ,cucumbers1 #aii4 ,stuffed ,spanish ,onion1 #bjd4 ,tomato ,jelly1 #bje4 ,tomato ,souffle1 #bjf4 ,various ways of serving1 #aii-bjg4 ,veloute1 or ,white ,sauce1 #ad4 ,villeroi ,sauce1 #ba4 ,walnut or ,hickory-nut ,cream1 #bcg4 ,water-ices1 #bec-bef4 ,almond1 #bee4 ,apricot1 #bef4 ,cinnamon1 #bee4 ,currant1 #bef4 ,ginger1 #bec4 ,pineapple1 #bed4 ,pistachio1 #bee4 ,whipped ,cream1 #bac1 #bad2 ,sweet ,sauces1 #big4 ,white ,sauces1 #bc-cb4 ,wine1 ,iced ,pudding1 #bdc2 ,sauces1 #bif4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,miss ,,corson',s ,,family ,,living ,,on #ejj ,a ,,year4 ,family ,living on #ejj a ,year4 ,a ,daily ,reference ,book for ,young and ,inexperienced ,housewives4 ,by ,,juliet ,,corson4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #a #be4 ,if we ever get as much as #ejj a year we shall purchase this book and live like a prince4444 ,it goes carefully through the expenses of daily living1 and indicates the thousand and one ways in which a penny can be saved and another penny put where it will do most good4 ,a book of this kind placed in the hands of those who have very limited means will show that they can live very comfortably and have quite enough to eat on a very small sum4--,n4 ,y4 ,herald4 ,it is a helpful working book1 sensible and practical1 and tells how to buy1 cook1 and serve all sorts of food2 how to can1 pickle1 and preserve2 and how to arrange and serve luncheons1 dinners1 and teas1 all in the most economical manner consistent with appetizing results4--,sunday-,school ,times1 ,philadelphia4 ,food-economist1 cook-book1 and instructor in table service all in one4444 ,the book is a capital one1 and every housekeeper should feel grateful to the able and painstaking author4--,n4 ,y4 ,post4 ,the production of a lady who understands her subject thoroughly1 and who earnestly wishes to help others towards the same useful knowledge4444 ,a book of this sort 7and ,miss ,corson is the best able to produce it of any one we know7 is a great aid1 and the more it is circulated the more households will be made happy4--,churchman1 ,n4 ,y4 ,every house-keeper1 whether coming within the scope of the author's effort or not1 will find many instructive hints1 a due regard for which will be conducive to the improved physical well-being and increased mental serenity of the various members of her household4--,st4 ,louis ,republican4 ,,published ,,by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,new ,,york4 -- ,,harper ,,brothers will send the above work by mail1 postage prepaid1 to any part of the ,united ,states or ,canada1 on receipt of the price4 ,,mrs4 ,,sherwood',s ,,manners ,,and ,,social ,,usages ,,in ,,america4 ,manners and ,social ,usages in ,america4 ,a ,book of ,etiquette4 ,by ,mrs4 ,,john ,,sherwood4 pp4 #ddh4 ,new and ,enlarged ,edition1 ,revised by the ,author4 #afmo1 ,extra ,cloth1 #a #be4 ,mrs4 ,sherwood's admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on the subject of etiquette1 chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on its author's personal familiarity with the usages of really good society1 and that it is inspired by good-sense and a helpful spirit4444 ,we think ,mrs4 ,sherwood's little book the very best and most sensible one of its kind that we ever saw4--,n4 ,y4 ,commercial ,advertiser4 ,we have no hesitation in declaring it to be the best work of the kind yet published4 ,the author shows a just appreciation of what is good-breeding and what is snobbishness4444 ,in happy discriminations the excellence of ,mrs4 ,sherwood's book is conspicuous4--,brooklyn ,union4 ,it is a sensible and pleasantly written volume1 which has already won recognition as one of the best books of its kind1 and this new edition is called for by the heartiness with which the public has endorsed the work4--,courier1 ,boston4 ,a sensible1 comprehensive book1 which has endured criticism successfully1 and deserves now to be regarded the best book of its kind published in this country4444 ,a better guide than ,mrs4 ,sherwood's book through the paths of social usages we do not know4 ,the book is a handsome one1 as it ought to be4--,christian ,intelligencer1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,published ,,by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,new ,,york4 -- ,,harper ,,brothers will send the above work by mail1 postage prepaid1 to any part of the ,united ,states or ,canada1 on receipt of the price4 ,,books ,,for ,,the ,,household4 ,,mrs4 ,,henderson',s ,,practical ,,cooking4 ,practical ,cooking and ,dinner ,giving4 ,a ,treatise containing ,practical ,instructions in ,cooking2 in the ,combination and ,serving of ,dishes1 and in the ,fashionable modes of ,entertaining at ,breakfast1 ,lunch1 and ,dinner4 ,by ,,mary ,f4 ,,henderson4 ,illustrated4 #abmo1 ,water-proof ,cover1 #a #ej4 ,,mrs4 ,,henderson',s ,,diet ,,for ,,the ,,sick4 ,diet for the ,sick4 ,a ,treatise on the ,values of ,foods1 their ,application to ,special ,conditions of ,health and ,disease1 and on the ,best ,methods of their ,preparation4 ,by ,,mary ,f4 ,,henderson4 ,illustrated4 #abmo1 ,cloth1 #a #ej4 ,,mrs4 ,,washington',s ,,unrivalled ,,cookbook4 ,the ,unrivalled ,cook-,book and ,house-keeper's ,guide4 ,by ,,mrs4 ,,washington4 #abmo1 ,water-proof ,cover1 #b #jj4 ,,mrs4 ,,smith',s ,,virginia ,,cookery-,,book4 ,virginia ,cookery-,book4 ,by ,,mary ,,stuart ,,smith4 #abmo1 ,cloth1 #a #ej2 #dto1 ,paper1 #be cents4 ,,bazar ,,cooking ,,receipts4 ,cooking ,receipts from ,harper's ,bazar4 #cbmo1 ,paper1 #be cents2 ,cloth1 #dj cents4 ,,miss ,,oakey',s ,,beauty ,,in ,,dress4 ,beauty in ,dress4 ,by ,,miss ,,oakey4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj4 ,,mrs4 ,,dewing',s 7,,miss ,,oakey7 ,,beauty ,,in ,,the ,,household4 ,beauty in the ,household4 ,by ,mrs4 ,t4 ,w4 ,,dewing1 ,author of ,beauty in ,dress4 ,illustrated4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj4 ,,coan',s ,,ounces ,,of ,,prevention4 ,ounces of ,prevention4 ,by ,,titus ,,munson ,,coan1 ,m4,d4 #abmo1 ,paper1 #be cents2 ,cloth1 #ej cents4 ,,mrs4 ,,church',s ,,money-,,making ,,for ,,ladies4 ,money-,making for ,ladies4 ,by ,,ella ,,rodman ,,church4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #ij cents4 ,,walker',s ,,hints ,,to ,,women ,,on ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,property4 ,hints to ,women on the ,care of ,property4 ,by ,,alfred ,,walker4 #cbmo1 ,paper1 #bj cents2 ,cloth1 #ce cents4 ,,miss ,,corson',s ,,family ,,living4 ,family ,living on #ejj a ,year4 ,a ,daily ,reference ,book for ,young and ,inexperienced ,housewives4 ,by ,,juliet ,,corson4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #a #be4 ,,mrs4 ,,herrick',s ,,house-,,keeping ,,made ,,easy4 ,house-keeping ,made ,easy4 ,by ,,christine ,,terhune ,,herrick4 #afmo1 ,cloth1 #a #jj4 ,,published ,,by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,new ,,york4 -- ,,harper ,,brothers will send any of the above works1 postage prepaid1 to any part of the ,united ,states or ,canada1 on receipt of the price4 ,transcriber's ,note ,the following typographical errors were corrected4 ,page ,error #f allemande is the same changed to ,allemande is the same #afj pate de foie gras changed to pate de foie gras #aff ,caviary ,canapes changed to ,caviare ,canapes #cji ,bearnaise ,sauce changed to ,bearnaise ,sauce #cji ,tartlets changed to ,tartlettes #caa ,coucombre changed to ,concombre #caa ,puree of ,mushrooms changed to ,puree of ,mushrooms #caa a la ,milanaise changed to a la ,milanais #caa a la ,perigord changed to a la ,perigord #cab ,ham1 ,puree of changed to ,ham1 ,puree of #cac ,macedoine of ,fruits changed to ,macedoine of ,fruits #cac ,meringue ,paste changed to ,meringue ,paste #cad ,puree of ,ham changed to ,puree of ,ham #cad ,bearnaise changed to ,bearnaise #cae ,ste4 ,menehould changed to ,ste4 ,menehould ,ad #b pp4#ddh4 changed to pp4 #ddh4 ,ad #c #abmo1 ,cloth1 #a #ej changed to #abmo1 ,cloth1 #a #ej4 ,inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words blond _/ blonde cocoa-nut _/ cocoanut house-keeper _/ housekeeper lemon-juice _/ lemon juice pepper-corns _/ peppercorns ramequin _/ ramekin rose-water _/ rosewater salt-spoonful _/ saltspoonful souffle _/ soufflee ,souffle _/ ,soufflee souffles _/ soufflees ,souffles _/ ,soufflees under-side _/ underside water-cress _/ watercress