file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #behdb-;h4htm or #behdb-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ e_/h_/d_/behdb_/behdb-;h_/#behdb-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ e_/h_/d_/behdb_/behdb-;h4zip7 ,,royal ,,palaces ,,and ,,parks ,,of ,,france 99 99 99 99 99 ,,works ,,of ,,francis ,,miltoun ,rambles on the ,riviera #b4ej ,rambles in ,normandy #b4ej ,rambles in ,brittany #b4ej ,the ,cathedrals and ,churches of the ,rhine #b4ej ,the ,cathedrals of ,northern ,france #b4ej ,the ,cathedrals of ,southern ,france #b4ej ,in the ,land of ,mosques and ,minarets #c4jj ,royal ,palaces and ,parks of ,france #c4jj ,castles and ,chateaux of ,old ,touraine and the ,loire ,country #c4jj ,castles and ,chateaux of ,old ,navarre and the ,basque ,provinces #c4jj ,castles and ,chateaux of ,old ,burgundy and the ,border ,provinces #c4jj ,italian ,highways and ,byways from a ,motor ,car #c4jj ,the ,automobilist ,abroad net #c4jj 7,postage ,extra7 ,l4 ,c4 ,page and ,company #ec ,beacon ,street1 ,boston1 ,mass4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,terrace of ,henri ,,iv1 ,saint ,germain 7,see page #bhf7 ,illustration ,,royal ,,palaces ,,and ,,parks ,,of ,,france by ,,francis ,,miltoun ,author of ,castles and ,chateaux of ,old ,touraine1 ,castles and ,chateaux of ,old ,burgundy1 ,rambles in ,normandy1 ,italian ,highways and ,byways from a ,motor-,car1 etc4 ,with ,many ,illustrations ,reproduced from paintings made on the spot by ,blanche ,mcmanus ,boston ,l4 ,c4 ,page ,company #aiaj ,copyright1 #aiaj4 by ,l4 ,c4 ,page ,company4 7,incorporated7 ,all rights reserved ,first ,impression1 ,november1 #aiaj ,printed by ,the ,colonial ,press ,c4 ,h4 ,simonds ,co41 ,boston1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,preface ,a thousand years ago1 by the rim of a tiny spring1 a monk who had avowed himself to the cult of ,saint ,saturnin1 robed1 cowled and sandalled1 knelt down to say a prayer to his beloved patron saint4 ,again he came1 this time followed by more of his kind1 and a wooden cross was planted by the side of the ,fontaine ,belle ,eau1 by this time become a place of pious pilgrimage4 ,after the monk came a king1 the latter to hunt in the neighbouring forest4 ,it was this old account of fact1 or legend1 that led the author and illustrator of this book to a full realization of the wealth of historic and romantic incidents connected with the ,french royal parks and palaces1 incidents which the makers of guidebooks have passed over in favour of the1 presumably1 more important1 well authenticated facts of history which are often the bare recitals of political rises and falls and dull chronologies of building up and tearing down4 ,much of the history of ,france was made in the great national forests and the royal country-houses of the kingdom1 but usually it has been only the events of the capital which have been passed in review4 ,to a great extent this history was of the gallant1 daring kind1 often written in blood1 the sword replacing the pen4 ,at times gayety reigned supreme1 and at times it was sadness2 but always the pageant was imposing4 ,the day of pageants has passed1 the day when lords and ladies moved through stately halls1 when royal equipages hunted deer or boar on royal preserves1 when gay cavalcades of solemn corteges thronged the great ,french highways to the uttermost frontiers and ofttimes beyond4 ,those days have passed2 but1 to one who knows the real ,france1 a ready-made setting is ever at hand if he would depart a little from the beaten paths worn smooth by railway and automobile tourists who follow only the lines of conventional travel4 ,france1 even to-day1 the city and the country alike1 is the paradise of ,european monarchs on a holiday4 ,one may be met at ,biarritz on the shores of the ,gascon gulf2 another may be taking the waters at ,aix or ,vichy1 shooting pigeons under the shadow of the ,tete de ,chien1 or hunting at ,rambouillet4 ,this is modern ,france1 the most cosmopolitan meeting place and playground of royalty in the world4 ,french royal parks and palaces1 those of the kings and queens of mediaeval1 as well as later1 times1 differ greatly from those of other lands4 ,this is perhaps not so much in their degree of splendour and luxury as in the sentiment which attaches itself to them4 ,in ,france there has ever been a spirit of gayety and spontaneity unknown elsewhere4 ,it was this which inspired the construction and maintenance of such magnificent royal residences as the palaces of ,saint ,germain-en-,laye1 ,fontainebleau1 ,versailles1 ,compiegne1 ,rambouillet1 etc41 quite different from the motives which caused the erection of the ,louvre1 the ,tuileries or the ,palais ,cardinal at ,paris4 ,nowhere else does there exist the equal of these inspired royal country-houses of ,france1 and1 when it comes to a consideration of their surrounding parks and gardens1 or those royal hunting preserves in the vicinity of the ,ile de ,france1 or of those still further afield1 at ,rambouillet or in the ,loire country1 their superiority to similar domains beyond the frontiers is even more marked4 ,in plan this book is a series of itineraries1 at least the chapters are arranged1 to a great extent in a topographical sequence2 and1 if the scope is not as wide as all ,france1 it is because of the prominence already given to the parks and palaces of ,touraine and elsewhere in the old ,french provinces in other works in which the artist and author have collaborated4 ,it is for this reason that so little consideration has been given to ,chambord1 ,amboise or ,chenonceaux1 which were as truly royal as any of that magnificent group of suburban ,paris palaces which begins with ,conflans and ends with ,marly and ,versailles4 ,going still further afield1 there is in the ,pyrenees that chateau1 royal from all points of view1 in which was born the gallant ,henri of ,france and ,navarre1 but a consideration of that1 too1 has already been included in another volume4 ,the present survey includes the royal dwellings of the capital1 those of the faubourgs and the outlying districts far enough from town to be recognized as in the country1 and still others as remote as ,rambouillet1 ,chantilly and ,compiegne4 ,all1 however1 were intimately connected with the life of the capital in the mediaeval and ,renaissance days1 and together form a class distinct from any other monumental edifices which exist1 or ever have existed1 in ,france4 ,mere historic fact has been subordinated as far as possible to a recital of such picturesque incidents of the life of contemporary times as the old writers have handed down to us1 and a complete chronological review has in no manner been attempted4 ,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,,introductory #ac ,,ii4 ,,the ,,evolution ,,of ,,french ,,gardens #ad ,,iii4 ,,the ,,royal ,,hunt ,,in ,,france #dc ,,iv4 ,,the ,,palais ,,de ,,la ,,cite ,,and ,,tournelles #fa ,v4 ,,the ,,old ,,louvre ,,and ,,its ,,history #ge ,,vi4 ,,the ,,louvre ,,of ,,francis ,i ,,and ,,its ,,successors #he ,,vii4 ,,the ,,tuileries ,,and ,,its ,,gardens #ajf ,,viii4 ,,the ,,palais ,,cardinal ,,and ,,the ,,palais ,,royal #aca ,,ix4 ,,the ,,luxembourg1 ,,the ,,elysee ,,and ,,the ,,palais ,,bourbon #aea ,x4 ,,vincennes ,,and ,,conflans #afh ,,xi4 ,,fontainebleau ,,and ,,its ,,forest #ahj ,,xii4 ,,by ,,the ,,banks ,,of ,,the ,,seine #bjc ,,xiii4 ,,malmaison ,,and ,,marly #bae ,,xiv4 ,,saint ,,cloud ,,and ,,its ,,park #bbi ,,xv4 ,,versailles3 ,,the ,,glory ,,of ,,france #bdd ,,xvi4 ,,the ,,gardens ,,of ,,versailles ,,and ,,the ,,trianons #bfj ,,xvii4 ,,saint ,,germain-,,en-,,laye #bgi ,,xviii4 ,,maintenon #bif ,,xix4 ,,rambouillet ,,and ,,its ,,forest #cji ,,xx4 ,,chantilly #cbd ,,xxi4 ,,compiegne ,,and ,,its ,,forest #cdb ,,index #cfc ,illustration3 ,list of ,illustrations ,,page ,,terrace ,,of ,,henri ,,iv1 ,,saint ,,germain 7see page #bhf7 ,frontispiece ,,the ,,louvre1 ,,the ,,tuileries ,,and ,,the ,,palais ,,royal ,,of ,,to-,,day facing #ab ,,jardin ,,francais--,,jardin ,,anglais #ae ,,henri ,,iv ,,in ,,an ,,old ,,french ,,garden facing #bj ,,parterre ,,de ,,diane1 ,,chenonceaux #bg ,,plan ,,of ,,sunken ,,garden 7,,jardin ,,creux7 #cj ,a ,,parterre facing #cb ,,bassin ,,de ,,la ,,couronne1 ,,vaux-,,le-,,vicomte facing #db ,a ,,curee ,,aux ,,flambeaux facing #df ,,an ,,imperial ,,hunt ,,at ,,fontainebleau facing #eb ,,rendezvous ,,de ,,chasse1 ,,rambouillet facing #ef ,,bird',s ,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,old ,,paris 7,map7 facing #gd ,,the ,,xiv ,,century ,,louvre facing #hb ,,the ,,louvre facing #ij ,,original ,,plan ,,of ,,the ,,tuileries 7,diagram7 #ajf ,,salle ,,des ,,marechaux1 ,,tuileries facing #aaf ,,the ,,galleries ,,of ,,the ,,palais ,,royal #adf ,,bourbon-,,orleans ,,descendants ,,of ,,louis ,,philippe 7,diagram7 facing #adf ,,palais ,,du ,,luxembourg facing #aed ,,door ,,in ,,throne ,,room1 ,,luxembourg #aef ,,the ,,petit ,,luxembourg facing #aef ,,the ,,luxembourg ,,gardens facing #aeh ,,the ,,throne ,,of ,,the ,,palais ,,bourbon #afa ,,vincennes ,,under ,,charles ,v #afh ,,chateau ,,de ,,vincennes facing #agb ,a ,,hunt ,,under ,,the ,,walls ,,of ,,vincennes facing #agd ,,conflans #agf ,,original ,,plan ,,of ,,fontainebleau #ahj ,,from ,,paris ,,to ,,fontainebleau 7,map7 facing #ahj ,,palais ,,de ,,fontainebleau facing #ahf ,,salle ,,du ,,throne1 ,,fontainebleau facing #aij ,,fragments ,,from ,,fontainebleau facing #aib ,,cheminee ,,de ,,la ,,reine1 ,,fontainebleau facing #aid ,,monument ,,to ,,rousseau ,,and ,,millet ,,at ,,barbison facing #bjj ,,chateau ,,de ,,bagatelle #bjd ,,chateau ,,de ,,malmaison facing #bah ,,the ,,gardens ,,of ,,saint ,,cloud facing #bcf ,,the ,,cascades ,,at ,,saint ,,cloud facing #bdj ,,cour ,,de ,,marbre1 ,,versailles facing #bfd ,,the ,,potager ,,du ,,roy1 ,,versailles facing #bgj ,,the ,,bassin ,,de ,,latone1 ,,versailles facing #bgb ,,the ,,fountain ,,of ,,neptune1 ,,versailles facing #bgd ,,petit ,,trianon facing #bgf ,,laiterie ,,de ,,la ,,reine1 ,,petit ,,trianon #bgg ,,saint ,,germain 7,diagram7 #bhj ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,seine1 ,,from ,,the ,,terrace ,,at ,,saint ,,germain facing #bhh ,,fauteuil ,,of ,,mme4 ,,de ,,maintenon #big ,,chateau ,,de ,,maintenon facing #cjj ,,aqueduct ,,of ,,louis ,,xiv ,,at ,,maintenon facing #cjf ,,chateau ,,de ,,rambouillet 7,diagram7 #cji ,,laiterie ,,de ,,la ,,reine1 ,,rambouillet facing #cab ,,chateau ,,de ,,rambouillet facing #caf ,,chantilly 7,diagram7 #cbe ,,statue ,,of ,,le ,,notre1 ,,chantilly facing #cbf ,,chateau ,,de ,,chantilly facing #ccf ,,compiegne 7,diagram7 #cdc ,,napoleon',s ,,bedchamber1 ,,compiegne facing #ceb ,,cours ,,de ,,compiegne facing #cef ,royal ,palaces and ,parks of ,france ,,chapter ,i ,,introductory ,the modern traveller sees something beyond mere facts4 ,historical material as identified with the life of some great architectural glory is something more than a mere repetition of chronologies2 the sidelights and the co-related incidents1 though indeed many of them may be but hearsay1 are quite as interesting1 quite as necessary1 in fact1 for the proper appreciation of a famous palace or chateau as long columns of dates1 or an evolved genealogical tree which attempts to make plain that which could be better left unexplained4 ,the glamour of history would be considerably dimmed if everything was explained1 and a very seamy block of marble may be chiselled into a very acceptable statue if the workman but knows how to avoid the doubtful parts4 ,an itinerary that follows not only the ridges1 but occasionally plunges down into the hollows and turns up or down such crossroads as may have chanced to look inviting1 is perhaps more interesting than one laid out on conventional lines4 ,a shadowy something1 which for a better name may be called sentiment1 if given full play encourages these side-steps1 and since they are generally found fruitful1 and often not too fatiguing1 the procedure should be given every encouragement4 ,not all the interesting royal palaces and chateaux of ,france are those with the best known names4 ,not all front on ,paris streets and quays1 no more than the best glimpses of ancient or modern ,france are to be had from the benches of a sight-seeing automobile4 ,versailles1 and even ,fontainebleau1 are too frequently considered as but the end of a half-day pilgrimage for the tripper4 ,it were better that one should approach them more slowly1 and by easy stages1 and leave them less hurriedly4 ,as for those architectural monuments of kings1 which were tuned in a minor key1 they1 at all events1 need to be hunted down on the spot1 the enthusiast being forearmed with such scraps of historic fact as he can gather beforehand1 otherwise he will see nothing at ,conflans1 ,marly or ,bourg-la-,reine which will suggest that royalty ever had the slightest concern therewith4 ,dealing first with ,paris it is evident it is there that the pilgrim to ,french shrines must make his most profound obeisance4 ,this applies as well to palaces as to churches4 ,in all cases one goes back into the past to make a start1 and old ,paris1 what there is left of it1 is still old ,paris1 though one has to leave the grand boulevards to find this out4 ,colberts and ,haussmanns do not live to-day1 or if they do they have become so practical that a drainage canal or an overhead or underground railway is more of a civic improvement than the laying out of a public park1 like the gardens of the ,tuileries1 or the building and embellishment of a public edifice--at least with due regard for the best traditions4 ,when the monarchs of old called in men of taste and culture instead of business men they builded in the most agreeable fashion4 ,we have not improved things with our systems and our committees of hommes d'affaires4 ,it is the fashion to-day to decry the cavaliers and the wearers of love-locks1 but they had a pretty taste in art and an eye for artistic surroundings1 those old fellows of the sword and cloak2 a much more pretty taste than their descendants1 the steam-heat and running-water partisans of to-day4 ,louis ,,xv and ,empire drawing and dining-rooms are everywhere advertised as the attractions of the great palace hotels1 and some of them are very good copies of their predecessors1 though one cannot help but feel that the clientele as a whole is more insistent on telephones in the bedrooms and auto-taxis always on tap than with regard to the sentiment of good taste and good cheer which is to be evoked by eating even a hurried meal in a room which reproduces some historically famous ,salle des ,gardes or the ,chambre of the ,o,eil de ,boeuf of the ,louvre1 if1 indeed1 most of the hungry folk know what their surroundings are supposed to represent4 ,any chronicle which attempts to set down a record of the comings and goings of ,french monarchs is saved from being a mere dull chronology of dates and resume of facts by its obligatory references to the architects and builders who made possible the splendid settings amid which these picturesque rulers passed their lives4 ,the castle builders of ,france1 the garden designers1 the architects1 decorators and craftsmen of all ranks produced not a medley1 but a coherent1 cohesive whole1 which stands apart from1 and far ahead of1 most of the contemporary work of its kind in other lands4 ,castles and keeps were of one sort in ,england and ,scotland1 of still another along the ,rhine1 and if the ,renaissance palaces and chateaux first came into being in ,italy it is certain they never grew to the flowering luxuriance there that they did in ,france4 ,thus does ,france establish itself as leader in new movements once again4 ,it was so in the olden time with the arts of the architect1 the landscape gardener and the painter2 it is so to-day with respect to such mundane1 less sentimental things as automobiles and aeroplanes4 ,another chapter1 in a story long since started1 is a repetition1 or review1 of the outdoor life of the ,french monarchs and their followers4 ,not only did ,frenchmen of ,gothic and ,renaissance times have a taste for travelling far afield1 pursuing the arts of peace or war as their conscience or conditions dictated2 but they loved1 too1 the open country and the open road at home2 they loved also la chasse1 as they did tournaments1 fetes-champetres and outdoor spectacles of all kinds4 ,add these stage settings to the splendid costuming and the flamboyant architectural accessories of ,renaissance times in ,france and we have what is assuredly not to be found in other lands1 a spectacular and imposing pageant of mediaeval and ,renaissance life and manners which is superlative from all points of view4 ,this is perhaps hard1 sometimes1 to reconcile with the ,french attitude towards outdoor life to-day1 when la chasse means the hunting of tame foxes 7a sport which has been imported from across the channel71 sport means a prize fight1 and a garden party or a fete-champetre a mere gossiping rendezvous over a cup of badly made tea4 ,in the ,france of the olden time they did things differently--and better4 ,not all ,french history was made1 or written1 within palace walls2 much of it came into being in the open air1 like the two famous meetings by the ,bidassoa1 ,napoleon's first sight of ,marie ,louise on the highroad leading out from ,senlis1 or his making the ,pope a prisoner at the ,croix de ,saint ,heram1 in the ,forest of ,fontainebleau4 ,it is this change of scene that makes ,french history so appealing to those who might otherwise let it remain in shut-up and dry-as-dust books on library shelves4 ,the ,french monarchs of old were indeed great travellers1 and it is by virtue of the fact that affairs of state were often promulgated and consummated en voyage that a royal stamp came to be acquired by many a chateau or country-house which to-day would hardly otherwise be considered as of royal rank4 ,throughout ,france1 notably in the neighbourhood of ,paris1 are certain chateaux--palaces only by lack of name--of the nobility where royalties were often as much at home as under their own royal standards4 ,one cannot attempt to confine the limits where these chateaux are to be found1 for they actually covered the length and breadth of ,france4 ,journeying afield in those romantic times was probably as comfortably accomplished1 by monarchs at least1 as it is to-day4 ,what was lacking was speed1 but they lodged at night under roofs as hospitable as those of the white and gold caravanserai 7and some more humble7 which perforce come to be temporary abiding places of royalties en tour to-day4 ,the writer has seen the ,dowager ,queen of ,italy lunching at a neighbouring table at a roadside trattoria in ,piedmont which would have no class distinction whatever as compared with the average suburban road-house across the ,atlantic4 ,at ,biarritz1 too1 the automobiling monarch1 ,alphonse ,,xiii1 has been known to take tea on the terrace of the great tourist-peopled hotel in company with mere be-goggled commoners4 ,le temps va6 ,were monarchs so democratic in the olden time1 one wonders4 ,the court chronicles of all ages1 and all ranks1 have proved a gold mine for the makers of books of all sorts and conditions4 ,not only court chroniclers but pamphleteers1 even troubadours and players1 have contributed much to the records of the life of mediaeval ,france4 ,all history was not made by political intrigue or presumption2 a good deal of it was born of the gentler passions1 and a chap-book maker would put often into print many accounts which the recorder of mere history did not dare use4 ,history is often enough sorry stuff when it comes to human interest1 and it needs editing only too often4 ,courtiers and the fashionable world of ,france1 ever since the days of the poetry-making and ballad-singing ,francis and ,marguerite1 and before1 for that matter1 made of literature--at least the written and spoken chronicle of some sort--a diversion and an accomplishment4 ,royal or official patronage given these mediaeval story-tellers did not always produce the truest tales4 ,then1 as now1 writer folk were wont to exaggerate1 but most of their work made interesting reading4 ,these courtiers of the itching pen did not often write for money4 ,royal favour1 or that of some fair lady1 or ladies1 was their chief return in many more cases than those for which their accounts were settled by mere dross4 ,it is in the work of such chroniclers as these that one finds a fund of unrepeated historic lore4 ,the dramatists came on the scene with their plots ready-made 7and have been coming ever since1 if one recalls the large number of ,french costume plays of recent years71 and whether they introduced errors of fact1 or not1 there was usually so much truth about their work that the very historians more than once were obliged to have recourse to the productions of their colleagues4 ,the dramatists' early days in ,france1 as in ,england1 were their golden days4 ,the mere literary man1 or chronicler1 was often flayed alive1 but the dramatist1 even though he dished up the foibles of a king1 and without any dressing at that1 was feted and made as much of as a record piano player of to-day4 ,one hears a lot about the deathbed scribblers in ,england in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 but there was not much of that sort of thing in ,france4 ,no one here penned bitter jibes and lascivious verses merely to keep out of jail1 as did ,nash and ,marlowe in ,england4 ,in short1 one must give due credit to the court chroniclers and ballad-singers of ,france as being something more than mere pilfering1 blackmailing hacks4 ,all the ,french court and its followers in the sixteenth century shouted epigrams and affected being greater poets than they really were4 ,it was a good sign1 and it left its impress on ,french literature4 ,following in the footsteps of ,francis ,i and the two ,marguerites nobles vied with each other in their efforts to produce some epoch-making work of poesy or prose1 and while they did not often publish for profit they were glad enough to see themselves in print4 ,then there were also the professional men of letters1 as distinct from the courtiers with literary ambitions1 the churchmen and courtly attaches of all ranks with the literary bee humming in their bonnets4 ,they1 too1 left behind them an imposing record1 which has been very useful to others coming after who were concerned with getting a local colour of a brand which should look natural4 ,it is with such guiding lights as are suggested by the foregoing resume that one seeks his clues for the repicturing of the circumstances under which ,french royal palaces were erected1 as well as for the truthful repetition of the ceremonies and functions of the times1 for the court life of old1 whether in city palace or country chateau1 was a very different thing from that of the ,republican regime of to-day4 ,not only were the royal ,paris dwellings1 from the earliest times1 of a profound luxuriance of design and execution1 but the private hotels1 the palaces1 one may well say1 of the nobility were of the same superlative order1 and kings and queens alike did not disdain to lodge therein on such occasions as suited their convenience4 ,the suggestive comparison is made because of the close liens with which royalty and the higher nobility were bound4 ,it is sufficient to recall1 among others of this class1 the celebrated ,hotel de ,beauvais which will illustrate the reference4 ,not only was this magnificent town house of palatial dimensions1 but it was the envy of the monarchs themselves1 because of its refined elegance of construction4 ,this edifice exists to-day1 in part1 at ,no4 #fh ,rue ,francois ,miron1 and the visitor may judge for himself as to its former elegance4 ,loret1 in his ,gazette in verse1 recounts a visit made to the ,hotel de ,beauvais in #affc by ,marie ,therese1 the ,queen of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,mercredi1 notre auguste ,reine1 ,cette charmante souveraine1 ,fut chez ,madame de ,beauvais ,pour de son amiable palais ,voir les merveilles etonnantes ,et les raretes surprenantes4 ,times have changed1 for the worse or for the better4 ,the sedan-chair and the coach have given way to the automobile and the engine1 and the wood fire to a stale calorifer1 or perhaps a gas-log4 ,the comparisons are odious2 there is no question as to this2 but it is by contrast that the subject is made the more interesting4 ,from the old ,palais des ,thermes 7now a part of the ,musee de ,cluny7 of the ,roman emperors down through the ,palais de la ,cite 7where lodged the kings of the first and second races7 to the modern installations of the ,louvre is a matter of twelve centuries4 ,the record is by no means a consecutive one1 but a record exists which embraces a dozen1 at least1 of the ,paris abodes of royalty1 where indeed they lived according to many varying scales of comfort and luxury4 ,not all the succeeding ,french monarchs had the abilities or the inclinations that enabled them to keep up to the traditions of the art-loving ,francis ,i1 but almost all of their number did something creditable in building or decoration1 or commanded it to be done4 ,louis ,,xiv1 though he delayed the adjustment of ,europe for two centuries1 was the first real beautifier of ,paris since ,philippe ,auguste4 ,privately his taste in art and architecture was rather ridiculous1 but publicly he and his architects achieved great things in the general scheme4 ,illustration3 ,the ,louvre ,the ,tuileries ,the ,palais ,royal of ,to-,day ,napoleon ,i1 in turn1 caught up with things in a political sense1 in truth he ran ahead of them1 but he in no way neglected the embellishments of the capital1 and added a new wing to the ,louvre1 and filled ,musees with stolen loot1 which remorse1 or popular clamour1 induced him1 for the most part1 to return at a later day4 ,in a decade ,napoleon made much history1 and he likewise did much for the royal palaces of ,france4 ,after him a gap supervened until the advent of ,napoleon ,,iii1 who1 weakling that he was1 had the perspicacity to give the ,baron ,haussmann a chance to play his part in the making of modern ,paris1 and if the ,tuileries and ,saint ,cloud had not disappeared as a result of his indiscretion the period of the ,second ,empire would not have been at all discreditable1 as far as the impress it left on ,paris was concerned4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,evolution ,,of ,,french ,,gardens ,the ,french garden was a creation of all epochs from the fifteenth to the seventeenth centuries1 and1 for the most part1 those of to-day and of later decades of the nineteenth century1 are adaptations and restorations of the classic accepted forms4 ,from the modest jardinet of the moyen-age to the ample gardens and parterres of the ,renaissance was a wide range4 ,in their highest expression these early ,french gardens1 with their broderies and carreaux may well be compared as works of art with contemporary structures in stone or wood or stuffs in woven tapestries1 which latter they greatly resembled4 ,under ,louis ,,xiv and ,louis ,,xv the elaborateness of the ,french garden was even more an accentuated epitome of the tastes of the period4 ,near the end of the eighteenth century a marked deterioration was noticeable and a separation of the tastes which ordained the arrangement of contemporary dwellings and their gardens was very apparent4 ,under the ,empire the antique style of furniture and decoration was used too1 but there was no contemporary expression with regard to garden making4 ,illustration3 ,,jardin ,,francais ,,jardin ,,anglais ,in the second half of the nineteenth century1 under the ,second ,empire1 the symmetrical lines of the old-time parterres came again into being1 and to them were attached composite elements or motives1 which more closely resembled details of the conventional ,english garden than anything distinctly ,french4 ,the ,english garden was1 for the most part1 pure affectation in ,france1 or1 at best1 it was treated as a frank exotic4 ,even to-day1 in modern ,france1 where an old dwelling of the period of ,henri ,,iv1 ,francois ,i1 ,louis ,,xiii1 ,louis ,,xiv1 or ,louis ,,xv still exists with its garden1 the latter is more often than not on the classically pure ,french lines1 while that of a modern cottage1 villa or chateau is often a poor1 variegated thing1 fantastic to distraction4 ,turning back the pages of history one finds that each people1 each century1 possessed its own specious variety of garden2 a species which responded sufficiently to the tastes and necessities of the people1 to their habits and their aspirations4 ,garden-making1 like the art of the architect1 differed greatly in succeeding centuries1 and it is for this reason that the garden of the moyen-age1 of the epoch of the ,crusades1 for example1 did not bear the least resemblance to the more ample parterres of the ,renaissance4 ,civilization was making great progress1 and it was necessary that the gardens should be in keeping with a less restrained1 more luxurious method of life4 ,if the gardens of the ,renaissance marked a progress over the preaux and jardinets of mediaevalism1 those of ,le ,notre were a blossoming forth of the ,renaissance seed4 ,regretfully1 one cannot say as much for the garden plots of the eighteenth century1 and it was only with the mid-nineteenth century that the general outlines took on a real charm and attractiveness again1 and this was only achieved by going back to original principles4 ,the first gardens were the vergers and preaux1 little checker-board squares of a painful primitiveness as compared with later standards4 ,these squares1 or carreaux1 were often laid out in foliage and blossoming plants as suggestive as possible of their being made of carpeting or marble4 ,when these miniature enclosures came to be surrounded with trellises and walls the ,renaissance in garden-making may be considered as having been in full sway4 ,under ,louis ,,xiv a certain affluence was noticeable in garden plots1 and with ,louis ,,xv an even more notable symmetry was apparent in the disposition of the general outlines4 ,by this time1 the garden in ,france had become a frame which set off the architectural charms of the dwelling rather than remaining a mere accessory1 but it was only with the replacing of the castle-fortress by the more domesticated chateau that a really generous garden space became a definite attribute of a great house4 ,the first gardens surrounding the ,french chateaux were developments1 or adaptations1 of ,italian gardens1 such as were designed across the ,alps by ,mercogliano1 during the feudal period4 ,later1 and during the time of the ,crusades1 the garden question hardly entered into ,french life4 ,gardens1 like all other luxuries1 were given little thought when the graver questions of peace and security were to be considered1 and1 for this reason1 there is little or nothing to say of ,french gardens previous to the twelfth century4 ,an important species of the gardens of the moyen-age was that which was found as an adjunct to the great monastic institutions1 the preaux1 which were usually surrounded by the cloister colonnade4 ,one of the most important of these1 of which history makes mention1 was that of the ,abbaye de ,saint ,gall1 of which ,charlemagne was capitular4 ,it was he who selected the plants and vegetables which the dwellers therein should cultivate4 ,of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries there is an abundant literary record1 and1 in a way1 a pictorial record as well4 ,from these one can make a very good deduction of what the garden of that day was like2 still restrained1 but yet something more than rudimentary4 ,from now on ,french gardens were divided specifically into the potager and verger4 ,the potager was virtually a vegetable garden within the walls which surrounded the seigneurial dwelling1 and was of necessity of very limited extent1 chiefly laid out in tiny carreaux1 or beds1 bordered by tiles or bricks1 much as a small city garden is arranged to-day4 ,here were cultivated the commonest vegetables1 a few flowers and a liberal assortment of herbs1 such as rue1 mint1 parsley1 sage1 lavender1 etc4 ,the verger1 or viridarium1 was practically a fruit garden1 as it is to-day1 with perhaps a generous sprinkling of flowers and aromatic plants4 ,the verger was always outside the walls1 but not far from the entrance or the drawbridge crossing the moat and leading to the chateau4 ,it was to the verger1 or orchard1 curiously enough1 that in times of peace the seigneur and his family retired after luncheon for diversion or repose4 ,d illocques vieng en cest vergier ,eascuns jour pour s'esbanoier4 ,thus ran a couplet of the ,roman de ,thebes2 and of the hundred or more tales of chivalry in verse1 which are recognized as classic1 nearly all make mention of the verger4 ,it was here that young men and maidens came in springtime for the fete of flowers1 when they wove chaplets and garlands1 for the moyen-age had preserved the antique custom of the coiffure of flowers1 that is to say hats of natural flowers1 as we might call them to-day1 except that modern hats seemingly call for most of the products of the barnyard and the farm in their decoration1 as well as the flowers of the field4 ,the rose was queen among all these flowers and then came the lily and the carnation1 chiefly in their simple1 savage state1 not the highly cultivated product of to-day4 ,from the ballads and the love songs1 one gathers that there were also violets1 eglantine1 daisies1 pansies1 forget-me-nots1 and the marguerite1 or consoude1 was one of the most loved of all4 ,the carnation1 or oeillet1 was called armerie2 the pansy was particularly in favour with the ladies1 who embroidered it on their handkerchiefs and their girdles4 ,still other flowers found a place in this early horticultural catalogue1 the marigold1 gladiolus1 stocks1 lily-of-the-valley and buttercups4 ,frequently the verger was surrounded by a protecting wall1 of more or less architectural pretense1 with towers and accessories conforming to the style of the period1 and decorative and utilitarian fountains1 benches and seats were also common accessories4 ,illustration3 ,henri ,,iv in an ,old ,french ,garden ,the old prints1 which reproduced these early ,french gardens1 are most curious to study1 amusing even2 but their point of view was often distorted as to perspective4 ,in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries1 perspective was almost wholly ignored in pictorial records4 ,there was often no scale1 and no depth2 everything was out of proportion with everything else1 and for this reason it is difficult to judge of the exact proportions of many of these early ,french gardens4 ,the origin of garden-making in ,france1 in the best accepted sense of the term1 properly began with the later years of the thirteenth century and the early years of the fourteenth2 continuing the tradition1 remained distinctly ,french until the mid-fifteenth century1 for the ,italian influence did not begin to make itself felt until after the ,italian wars and travels of ,charles ,,viii1 ,louis ,,xi and ,francis ,i4 ,the earliest traces of the work of the first two of these monarchs are to be seen at ,blois and1 for a time henceforth1 it is to be presumed that all royal gardens in ,france were largely conceived under the inspiration of ,italian influences4 ,before1 as there were primitives in the art of painting in ,france1 there were certainly ,french gardeners in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries4 ,one of these1 whoever he may have been1 was the designer of the preaux and the treilles of the ,louvre of ,charles ,v1 of which a pictorial record exists1 and he1 or they1 did work of a like nature for the powerful house of ,bourgogne1 and for ,rene d',anjou1 whom we know was a great amateur gardener4 ,the archives of these princely houses often recount the expenses in detail1 and so numerous are certain of them that it would not be difficult to picture anew as to just what they referred4 ,debanes1 the gardener of the ,chateau d',angers1 on a certain occasion1 gave an accounting for ,x ,sols for repairing the grass-plots and for making a petit preau4 ,again3 ,,xi ,sols for the employ of six gardeners to trim the vines and clean up the alleys of the grand and petit jardin4 ,luxury in all things settled down upon all ,france to a greater degree than hitherto in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries1 and almost without exception princely houses set out to rival one another in the splendour of their surroundings4 ,now came in the ornamental garden as distinct from the verger1 and the preau became a greensward accessory1 at once practical and decorative1 the precursor of the pelouse and the parterre of ,le ,notre4 ,the preau 7in old ,french prael7 was a symmetrical square or rectangular grass-grown garden plot4 ,from the ,latin pratum1 or pratellum1 the words preau1 pre and prairie were evolved naturally enough1 and came thus early to be applied in ,france to that portion of the pleasure garden set out as a grassy lawn4 ,the word is very ancient1 and has come down to us through the monkish vocabulary of the cloister4 ,some celebrated verse of ,christine de ,pisan1 who wrote ,the ,life of ,charles ,v1 thus describes the cloister at ,poissy4 ,du cloistre grand large et especieux ,que est carre1 et1 afin qu'il soit mieulx ,a un prael1 ou milieu1 gracieux ,vert sans grappin ,ou a plante en my un tres hault pin4 ,it was at this period1 that of ,saint ,louis and the apotheosis of ,gothic architecture1 that ,france was at the head of ,european civilization1 therefore in no way can her preeminence in garden-making be questioned4 ,the gardens of the ,gothic era seldom surpassed the enclos with a rivulet passing through it1 a spring1 a pine tree giving a welcome shade1 some simple flowers and a verger of fruit trees4 ,the neighbours of ,france were often warring among themselves but the ,grand ,seigneur here was settling down to beautifying his surroundings and framing his chateaux1 manors and country-seats in dignified and most appealing pictures4 ,grass-plots appeared in dooryards1 flowers climbed up along castle walls and shrubs and trees came to play a genuinely esthetic role in the life of the times4 ,an illustrious stranger1 banished from ,italy1 one ,brunetto ,latini1 the master of ,dante1 who had sought a refuge in ,france1 wrote his views on the matter1 which in substance were as above4 ,about this time originated the progenitors of the gloriettes1 which became so greatly the vogue in the eighteenth century4 ,practically the gloriette1 a word in common use in northern ,france and in ,flanders1 was a logette de plaisance4 ,the ,spaniards1 too1 in their glorietta1 a pavilion in a garden1 had practically the same signification of the word4 ,in the fourteenth century ,french garden the gloriette was a sort of arbour1 or trellis-like summer-house1 garnished with vines and often perched upon a natural or artificial eminence4 ,other fast developing details of the ,french garden were tree-bordered alleys and the planting of more or less regularly set-out beds of flowering plants4 ,vine trellises and vine-clad pavilions and groves were a speedy development of these details1 and played parts of considerable importance in gardening under the ,french ,renaissance4 ,in this same connection there is a very precise record in an account of the gardens of the ,louvre under ,charles ,v concerning the contribution of one1 ,jean ,baril1 maker of ,arlors1 to this form of the landscape architect's art4 ,ornamental birds--peacocks1 pheasants and swans now came in as adjuncts to the ,french land and water garden4 ,this was the way a certain pertinent comment was made by a writer of the fifteenth century4 ,from the ,menagier de ,paris1 a work of the end of the fourteenth century1 one learns that behind a dwelling of a prince or noble of the time was usually to be found a beau jardin tout plante d'arbres a fruits1 de legumes1 de rosiers1 orne de volieres et tapise de gazon sur lesquels se promenent les paons4 ,french gardens of various epochs are readily distinguished by the width of their alleys4 ,in the moyen-age the paths which separated the garden plots were very narrow2 in the early ,renaissance period they were somewhat wider1 taking on a supreme maximum in the gardens of ,le ,notre4 ,trimmed trees entered into the general scheme in ,france towards the end of the fifteenth century4 ,under ,henri ,,iv and under ,louis ,,xii trees were often trimmed in ungainly1 fantastic forms1 but with the advent of ,le ,notre the good taste which he propagated so widely promptly rejected these grotesques1 which1 for a fact1 were an importation from ,flanders1 like the gloriettes4 ,not by the remotest suggestion could a clipped yew in the form of a peacock or a giraffe be called ,french4 ,le ,notre eliminated the menagerie and the aviary1 but kept certain geometrical forms1 particularly with respect to hedges1 where niches were frequently trimmed out for the placing of statues1 columns surmounted with golden balls1 etc4 ,the most famous of the frankly ,renaissance gardens developed as a result of the migrations of the ,french monarchs in ,italy were those surrounding such palaces and chateaux as ,fontainebleau1 ,amboise1 and ,blois4 ,often these manifestly ,french gardens1 though of ,italian inspiration in the first instance1 were actually the work of ,italian craftsmen4 ,pucello ,marceliano at four hundred livres and ,edme ,marceliano at two hundred livres were in the employ of ,henri ,,ii4 ,it was the former who laid out the magnificent ,parterre de ,diane at ,chenonceaux1 where ,catherine de ,medici later1 being smitten with the skill of the ,florentines1 gave the further commission of the ,jardin ,vert1 which was intended to complete this parterre1 to ,henri le ,calabrese and ,jean ,collo4 ,the later ,renaissance gardens divided themselves into various classes1 jardins de plaisir1 jardins de plaisance1 jardins de proprete1 etc4 ,parterres now became of two sorts1 parterres a compartiments and parterres de broderies1 names sufficiently explicit not to need further comment4 ,illustration3 ,parterre de ,diane1 ,chenonceaux ,it is difficult to determine just how garden broderies came into being4 ,they may have been indirectly due to woman's love of embroidery and the garden alike4 ,the making of these garden broderies was a highly cultivated art4 ,pierre ,vallet1 embroiderer to ,henri ,,iv1 created much in his line of distinction and note1 and acquired an extensive clientele for his flowers and models4 ,often these gardens1 with their parterres and broderies were mere additions to an already existing architectural scheme1 but with respect to the gardens of the ,luxembourg and ,saint ,germain-en-,laye they came into being with the edifices themselves1 or at least those portions which they were supposed to embellish4 ,harmony was then first struck between the works of the horticulturist--the garden-maker--and those of the architect--the builder in stone and wood4 ,this was the prelude to those majestic ensembles of which ,le ,notre was to be the composer4 ,of the celebrated ,french palace and chateau gardens which are not centered upon the actual edifices with which they are more or less intimately connected1 but are distinct and apart from the gardens which in most cases actually surround a dwelling1 may be mentioned those of ,montargis1 ,saint ,germain1 ,amboise1 ,villers-,cotterets and ,fontainebleau4 ,these are rather parks1 like the home-parks1 so called1 in ,england1 which1 while adjuncts to the dwellings1 are complete in themselves and are possessed of a separate identity1 or reason for being4 ,chiefly these1 and indeed most ,french gardens of the same epoch1 differ greatly from contemporary works in ,italy in that the latter were often built and terraced up and down the hillsides1 whereas the ,french garden was laid out1 in the majority of instances1 on the level1 though each made use of interpolated architectural accessories such as balustrades1 statuary1 fountains1 etc4 ,mollet was one of the most famous gardeners of the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,he was the gardener of the ,duc d',aumale1 who built the gardens of the ,chateau d',anet while it was occupied by ,diane de ,poitiers1 and for their time they were considered the most celebrated in ,france for their upkeep and the profusion and variety of their flowers4 ,this was the highest development of the ,french garden up to this time4 ,it is possible that this ,claude ,mollet was the creator of the parterres and broderies so largely used in his time1 and after4 ,mollet's formula was derived chiefly from flower and plant forms1 resembling in design oriental embroideries4 ,he made equal use of the labyrinth and the sunken garden4 ,his idea was to develop the simple parquet into the elaborate parterre4 ,he began his career under ,henri ,,iii and ultimately became the gardener of ,henri ,,iv4 ,his elaborate work ,theatre des ,plans et ,jardinage was written towards #afaj-afab1 but was only published a half a century later4 ,it was only in the sixteenth century that gardens in ,paris were planned and developed on a scale which was the equal of many which had previously been designed in the provinces4 ,illustration3 ,,plan of ,,sunken ,,garden 7,,jardin ,,creux7 ,the chief names in ,french gardening--before the days of ,le ,notre--were those of the two ,mollets1 the brothers ,boyceau1 de la ,barauderie and ,jacques de ,menours1 and all successively held the post of ,superintendent of the ,garden of the ,king4 ,in these royal gardens there was always a distinctly notable feature1 the grand roiales1 the principal avenues1 or alleys1 which were here found on a more ambitious scale than in any of the private gardens of the nobility4 ,the central avenue was always of the most generous proportions1 the nomenclature coming from royal--the grand roial being the equivalent of ,allee ,royale1 that is1 ,avenue ,royal4 ,by the end of the sixteenth century the ,garden of the ,tuileries1 which was later to be entirely transformed by ,le ,notre1 offered an interesting aspect of the parquet at its best4 ,in ,paris a ,travers les ,ages one reads that from the windows of the palace the garden resembled a great checker-board containing more than a hundred uniform carreaux4 ,there were six wide longitudinal alleys or avenues cut across by eight or ten smaller alleys which produced this rectangular effect4 ,within some of the squares were single1 or grouped trees2 in others the conventional quincunx2 others were mere expanses of lawn1 and still others had flowers arranged in symmetrical patterns4 ,in one of these squares was a design which showed the escutcheons of the arms of ,france and those of the ,medici4 ,these gardens of the ,tuileries were first modified by a project of ,bernard ,palissy1 the porcelainiste4 ,he let his fancy have full sway and the criss-cross alleys and avenues were set out at their junctures with moulded ornaments1 enamelled miniatures1 turtles in faience and frogs in porcelain4 ,it was this1 perhaps1 which gave the impetus to the ,french for their fondness to-day for similar effects1 but ,bernard ,palissy doubtless never went so far as plaster cats on a ridgepole1 as one may see to-day on many a pretty villa in northern ,france4 ,this certainly lent an element of picturesqueness to the ,renaissance ,garden of the ,louvre1 a development of the same spirit which inspired this artist in his collaboration at ,chenonceaux4 ,this was the formula which produced the jardin delectable1 an exaggeration of the taste of the epoch1 but still critical of its time4 ,the gardens of the ,renaissance readily divided themselves into two classes1 those of the parterres a compartiments and those of the parterres de broderies4 ,the former1 under ,francis ,i and ,henri ,,ii1 were divided into geometrical compartments thoroughly in the taste of the ,renaissance1 but bordered frequently with representations of designs taken from ,venetian lace and various other contemporary stuffs4 ,there were other parterres1 where the compartments were planned on a more utilitarian scale2 in other words1 they were the potagers which rendered the garden1 said ,olivier de ,serres1 one of profitable beauty4 ,some of the compartments were devoted entirely to herbs and medicinal plants while others were entirely given over to flowers4 ,in general the compartments were renewed twice a year1 in ,may and ,august4 ,illustration3 ,a ,parterre ,the ,grand ,parterre at ,fontainebleau1 called in other days the ,parterre de ,tiber1 offered as remarkable an example of the terrace garden as was to be found in ,france1 the terraces rising a metre or more above the actual garden plot and enclosing a sort of horticultural arena4 ,it was in the sixteenth century that architectural motives came to be incorporated into the gardens in the form of square1 round or octagonal pavilions1 and here and there were added considerable areas of tiled pavements1 features which were found at their best in the gardens of the ,chateau de ,gaillon and at ,langeais4 ,one special and distinct feature of the ,french ,renaissance garden was the labyrinth1 of which three forms were known4 ,the first was composed of merely low borders1 the second of hedges shoulder high1 or even taller1 and the third was practically a roofed-over grove4 ,the latter invention was due1 it is said1 to the discreet ,louis ,,xiv4 ,in the ,tuileries garden1 in the time of ,catherine de ,medici1 there was a labyrinth greatly in vogue with the ,parisian nobles who found much pleasure in amusing themselves therein4 ,in that garden the labyrinth was sometimes called the ,road of ,jerusalem and it was presumably of eastern origin4 ,in the seventeenth century grottos came to be added to the garden1 though this is seemingly an ,italian tradition of much earlier date4 ,among the notable grottos of this time were that of the ,jardin des ,pins at ,fontainebleau1 and that of the ,chateau de ,meudon1 built by ,philibert ,delorme1 of which ,ronsard celebrated its beauties in verse4 ,the art was not confined to the gardens of royalties and the nobility1 for the bourgeoisie speedily took up with the puerile idea 7said to have come from ,holland1 by the way71 and built themselves grottos of shells1 plaster and boulders4 ,it was then that the chiens de faience1 which the smug ,paris suburbanite of to-day so loves1 were born4 ,by the seventeenth century the equalized carreaux of the early geometrically disposed gardens were often replaced with the oblongs1 circles and1 somewhat timidly introduced1 more bizarre forms1 the idea being to give variety to the ensemble4 ,there was less fear for the artistic effect of great open spaces than had formerly existed1 and the avenues and alleys were considerably enlarged1 and such architectural and sculptural accessories as fountains1 balustrades and perrons were designed on a more extensive scale4 ,basins and canals and other restrained surfaces of water began to appear on a larger scale1 and greater insistence was put upon their proportions with regard to the decorative part which they were to play in the ensemble4 ,this was the preparatory period of the coming into being of the works of ,le ,notre and ,mansart4 ,the ,grand ,siecle lent a profound majesty to royal and noble dwellings1 and its effect is no less to be remarked upon than the character of their gardens4 ,the moving spirit which ordained all these things was the will of the ,roi ,soleil4 ,parterres and broderies were designed on even a grander scale than before4 ,they were frequently grouped into four equal parts with a circular basin in the centre1 and mirror-like basins of water sprang up on all sides4 ,close to the royal dwelling was the fore-court1 as often dressed out with flowers and lawn as with tiles and flags4 ,from it radiated long alleys and avenues1 stretching out almost to infinity4 ,at this time the grass-plots were developed to high order1 and there were groves1 rest-houses1 bowers1 and theatres de verdure at each turning4 ,tennis-courts came to be a regularly installed accessory1 and the basins and mirrors of water were frequently supplemented by cascades1 and some of the canals were so large that barges of state floated thereon4 ,over some of the canals bridges were built as fantastic in design as those of the ,japanese1 and again others as monumental as the ,pont ,neuf4 ,in their majestic regularity the ,french gardens of the seventeenth century possessed an admirable solemnity1 albeit their amplitude and majesty give rise to justifiable criticism4 ,it is this criticism that qualifies the values of such gardens as those of ,versailles and ,vaux1 but one must admit that the scale on which they were planned has much to do with this1 and certainly if they had been attached to less majestic edifices the comment would have been even more justifiable4 ,as it is1 the criticism must be qualified4 ,the aspect of the garden by this time had been greatly modified4 ,aside from such great ensembles as those of ,versailles was now to be considered a taste for something smaller1 but often overcrowded with accessories of the same nature1 which compared so well with the vastness of ,versailles1 but which1 on the other hand1 looked so out of place in miniature4 ,it was not long now before the style pompadour began to make itself shown with regard to garden design--the exaggeration of an undeniable grace by an affected mannerism4 ,all the rococco details which had been applied to architecture now began to find their duplication in the garden rockeries--weird fantasies built of plaster and even shells of the sea4 ,by later years of the eighteenth century there came on the scene as a designer of gardens one1 ,de ,neufforge4 ,his work was a prelude to the classicism of the style of ,louis ,,xvi which was to come4 ,there was1 too1 at this time a disposition towards the ,english garden1 but only a slight tendency1 though towards #aghj the conventional ,french garden had been practically abandoned4 ,the revolution in the art of garden-making therefore preceded that of the world of politics by some years4 ,there are three or four works which give specific details on these questions4 ,they are ,de la ,distribution des ,maisons de ,plaisance1 by ,blondel 7#aggc71 his ,cours d',architecture of the same date1 and ,panseron's volume entitled ,recueil de ,jardinage1 published in #aghc4 ,the following brief resume shows the various steps through which the ,french formal garden passed4 ,in the moyen-age the garden was a thing quite apart from the dwelling1 and was but a diminutive dooryard sort of a garden4 ,the garden of the ,renaissance amplified the regular lines which existed in the moyen-age1 but was often quite as little in accord with the dwelling that it surrounded as its predecessor4 ,the union of the garden and the dwelling and its dependencies was clearly marked under ,louis ,,xiv1 while the gardens of ,louis ,,xv tended somewhat to modify the grand lines and the majestic presence of those of his elder4 ,these gardens of ,louis ,,xv were more fantastic1 and followed less the lines of traditional good taste4 ,shapes and forms were complicated and indeed inexplicably mixed into a melange that one could hardly recognize for one thing or another1 certainly not as examples of any well-meaning styles which have lasted until to-day4 ,the straight line now disappeared in favour of the most dissolute and irrational curves imaginable1 and the sober majesty of the gardens of ,louis ,,xiv became a tangle of warring elements1 fine in parts and not uninteresting1 effective1 even1 here and there1 but as a whole an aggravation4 ,finally the reaction came for something more simple and more in harmony with rational taste4 ,the best example remaining of the ,louis ,,xv garden is that which surrounds the ,pavillon de ,musique of the ,petit ,trianon1 an addition to the garden which ,louis ,,xiv had given to the ,grand ,trianon4 ,by comparison with the big garden of ,le ,notre this latter conception is as a boudoir to a reception hall4 ,the garden of ,louis ,,xvi was a composite1 with interpolations from across the ,rhine1 from ,holland and ,belgium and from ,england even2 features which got no great hold1 however1 but which1 for a time1 gave it an air less ,french than anything which had gone before4 ,from the beginning of the nineteenth century the formal garden was practically abandoned in ,france4 ,it was the period of the real decadence of the formal garden4 ,this came not from one cause alone but from many4 ,to the straight lines and gentle curves of former generations upon generations of ,french gardens were added sinuosities as varied and complicated as those of the ,vale of ,cashmere1 and again1 with tiny stars and crescents and what not1 the ground resembled an ornamental ceiling more than it did a garden4 ,the sentimentalism of the epoch did its part1 and accentuated the desire to carry out personal tastes rather than build on traditionally accepted lines4 ,the taste for the ,english garden grew apace in ,france1 and many a noble plantation was remodelled on these lines1 or rooted up altogether4 ,immediately neighbouring upon the dwelling the garden still bore some resemblance to its former outlines1 but1 as it drew farther away1 it became a park1 a wildwood or a preserve4 ,isabey ,pere1 a miniaturist1 under ,napoleonic stimulus1 designed a number of ,french gardens in the early years of the nineteenth century1 following more or less the conventional lines of the best work of the seventeenth century1 and succeeded admirably in a small way in resuscitating the fallen taste4 ,isabey's gardens may have lacked much that was remarkable in the best work of ,le ,notre1 but they were considerably better than anything of a similar nature1 so far as indicating a commendable desire to return to better ideals4 ,under the ,second ,empire a great impulse was given to garden design and making in ,paris itself4 ,it was then that the parks and squares came really to enter into the artistic conception of what a city beautiful should be4 ,leaving the gardens of the ,tuileries and the ,luxembourg out of the question1 the ,parc ,monceau and that of the ,buttes ,chaumont of to-day1 the descendants of these first ,paris gardens show plainly how thoroughly good they were in design and execution4 ,the majority of professional gardeners of renown in ,france made their first successes with the gardens of the city of ,paris1 reproducing the best of the sixteenth1 seventeenth and eighteenth century work1 which had endured without the competition of later years having dulled its beauty1 though perhaps the parterres of to-day are rather more warm in colouring1 even cruder1 than those of a former time4 ,the jardin fleuriste and the parterre horticole of the nineteenth century appealed however quite as much in their general arrangement and the modification of their details and their rainbow colours1 as any since the time of ,louis ,,xvi4 ,according to the expert definition the jardin fleuriste was a garden reserved exclusively to the culture and ornamental disposition of plants giving forth rich leaves and beautiful flowers4 ,the above quoted description is decidedly apt4 ,the seventeenth century ,french garden formed a superb framing for the animated fetes and reunions in which took part such a brilliant array of lords and ladies of the court as may have been invited to taste the delicacies of a fete amid such luxurious appointments4 ,the fashionable and courtly life of the day1 so far as its open-air aspect was concerned1 centered around these gardens and parks of the great houses of royalty and the nobility4 ,the costume of the folk of the time1 with cloak and sword and robes of silk and velvet and gilded carriages and chaises-a-porteurs1 had little in common with the out-of-door garden-party life of to-day1 where the guests arrive in automobiles1 be-rugged and be-goggled and somewhat the worse for a dusty journey4 ,it is for this reason that ,versailles and ,vaux-le-,vicomte1 in spite of the suggestion of sumptuousness which they still retain1 are1 from all points of view1 more or less out of scale with the life of our times4 ,the modern garden1 whether laid out in regular lines1 or on an ornamental scale1 as a flower garden purely1 or in a composite style1 is usually but an adjunct to the modern chateau1 villa or cottage4 ,it is more intimate than the vast1 more theatrically disposed area of old1 and is more nearly an indication of the personal tastes of the owner because of its restrained proportions4 ,illustration3 ,bassin de la ,couronne1 ,vaux-le-,vicomte ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,royal ,,hunt ,,in ,,france ,just how great a part the royal hunt played in the open-air life of the ,french court all who know their ,french history and have any familiarity with the great forests of ,france well recognize4 ,the echo of ,french country architecture as evinced in the maisons de plaisance and rendezvous de chasse scattered up and down the ,france of monarchial times lives until to-day1 scarcely fainter than when the note was originally sounded4 ,often these establishments were something more than a mere hunting-lodge1 or shooting-box1 indeed they generally aspired to the proportions of what may readily be accepted as a country-house4 ,they established a specious type of architecture which in many cases grew1 in later years1 into a chateau or palace of manifestly magnificent appointments4 ,at the great hunting exposition recently held at ,vienna the clou of the display was a ,french royal hunting-lodge in the style of ,louis ,,xvi1 hung with veritable ,gobelin tapestries1 loaned by the ,french government and picturing ,the ,hunt in ,france4 ,it was called by the critics a unique painting in a beautiful frame4 ,in the days of ,francis ,i and his sons1 the royal hunt was given a great impetus by ,catherine de ,medici1 wife of ,henri ,,ii4 ,francis1 in company with his sons1 had gone to ,marseilles to meet the ,medici bride1 who was on her way to make her home at the ,paris ,louvre1 and when he found her possessed of so lively manners and such great intelligence he became so charmed with her that1 it is said1 he danced with her all of the first evening4 ,what pleased the monarch even more1 and perhaps not less his sons1 was that she shot with an arquebuse like a sharpshooter1 and could ride to hounds like a natural-born ,amazon4 ,she was more than a rival1 as it afterwards proved1 of that arch-huntress1 ,diane de ,poitiers4 ,history recounts in detail that last royal hunt of ,francis ,i at ,rambouillet1 when he was lying near to death1 the guest of his old friend1 d',angennes4 ,the old manor1 half hunting-lodge1 half fortress1 and very nearly royal in all its appointments1 proved a comfortable enough rest-house1 and on the day after his arrival1 in ,march1 #aedg1 the monarch commanded the preparations for a royal hunt to commence at daybreak in the neighbouring forest4 ,the equipage started forth in full ceremonial on the quest of stag and boar4 ,the bugles blew and a sort of stimulated courage once more entered the king's breast1 courage born of the excitement around him1 the baying of the hounds and the tramping and neighing of impatient horses4 ,he had forced himself from his bed and on horseback and started off with the rest1 defying the better counsel of his retainers4 ,his strength proved to be born of a fictitious enthusiasm1 and1 speedily losing interest1 he was brought back to the manor where he had his apartments1 and put speechless and half dead to bed1 actually dying the next day from this last over-exertion1 scarce half a century of the span of his life accomplished4 ,henri de ,navarre also was a true lover of the open4 ,born in a mountain town in the ,pyrenees he would rather camp on a bed of pine needles in the forest than lie on a tuft of down4 ,he preferred his beloved ,bayonne ham1 spiced with garlic1 to a sumptuous dinner in ,jarnet house1 a famous ,paris tavern of the day2 and had rather quench his thirst with a quaff of the wine of ,jurancon than the finest cru in ,paris cellars4 ,he hated the parade of courts1 was dirty1 unkempt and careless1 a genuine son of the soil1 heedless of fate1 and an excellent huntsman4 ,up to the seventeenth century the ladies of the ,french court showed a keener interest for falconry than for the hunt by horse and hounds4 ,the heroines of the ,fronde1 and the generation which followed1 seemed to lose interest in this form of sport1 and gave their favour to packs of hounds1 and followed with equal interest the hunt for deer1 wolves1 boars1 foxes and hares as they were tracked through forests and over arid wastes4 ,the old hunting horn1 the winding horn of romance1 still exists at the hunts of ,france1 a relic of the days of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,it sounds the conventional comings and goings of the huntsmen in the same classic phraseology as of old--the lancer1 the bien allee1 the vue1 the changement de foret1 the accompagne1 the bat l'eau1 the hallali par terre1 and the curee4 ,the ,curee aux ,flambeaux was one of the most picturesque ceremonies connected with the royal hunt in ,france4 ,it began in the gallant days1 and lived even until the time of the ,second ,empire4 ,illustration3 ,a ,curee aux ,flambeaux ,the curee1 that is the giving up to the hounds the remains of an animal slain in chase1 does not always take place at night1 but when it does the torches play the part of impressive and picturesque accessories4 ,when a curee takes place at the spot where the animal is actually killed the ,french sporting term for the ceremony is force et abattu4 ,this1 however1 is usually preceded by another called le pied1 which consists in cutting off one of the feet of the dead animal and offering it to the person in whose honor the hunt was held4 ,when the curee takes place by torchlight the body of the animal is carried beneath the windows of the chateau1 a circle is formed by the piqueurs1 or head hunters1 and all who have participated in the pursuit2 and1 to the sound of a trumpet1 loaned by the sportsmen1 one of the valets de venerie cuts up the stag4 ,the meutes1 that is to say1 the hounds which are let slip last of all1 and which terminates the chase--are then brought by the valet des chiens1 who has great difficulty in keeping them from breaking loose4 ,when the entrails have been cut away the valet sits astride the animal1 holding up the nappe1 or head and neck1 shaking it at the already furious hounds4 ,it is the care of the valet during this interval to conceal the pieces of flesh which are still under the body4 ,the hounds are then loosened1 but are kept within bounds by the whips of the piqueurs and the valet des chiens4 ,when the dogs are sufficiently exasperated the brutes are allowed to rush upon the remains of their victim2 only1 however1 to be driven back again by whipping4 ,when their docility has thus been proven the definite signal1 lachez tout1 is given1 and the hounds rush towards the stag4 ,the curee then presents a savage spectacle3 the air is filled with growling1 barking and yelling1 while the ground is covered with scrambling dogs1 their mouths reeking with blood4 ,the feminine costume for the hunt in the time of ,louis ,,xiii was of broadcloth or velvet1 with a great feather-ornamented picture hat4 ,only now and again a lady on horseback after #afej dared borrow doublet and jacket1 and mount astride4 ,the ladies followed the hunt of ,louis ,,xiv on horseback1 seldom1 if ever1 in the older manner of sitting behind their cavalier on the same steed4 ,from the time of ,catherine de ,medici1 indeed1 the ,italian side-saddle had become the fashion for women4 ,under ,louis ,,xv the ladies sought a little more comfort1 and followed the equipage sitting in a sort of hamper-like1 diminutive basket1 hung from the broad back of a sturdy quadruped4 ,dresses became more fanciful1 both in materials and colours4 ,from this it was but a step to even more elaborate toilettes which necessitated a conveyance of some sort on wheels1 but the most intrepid still clung to the traditionally classic methods4 ,marie ,antoinette had her equipage de chasse1 and ,madame ,durfort was constantly abroad in the forests of ,montmorency and ,boissy1 directing the operation of eight or ten professional huntsmen4 ,among her guests were frequently the ambassadors of ,prussia1 ,russia and ,austria4 ,in the time of ,louis ,,xiv the ,comtesse de ,lude devoted herself to the hunt with a frenzy born of an inordinate enthusiasm4 ,at the head of a pack of hounds she knew no obstacle1 and1 on one occasion1 penetrated on horseback1 followed by her dogs1 into the oratory of the nuns of the ,convent of ,estival4 ,by the end of the seventeenth century the hunt in ,france had become no more a sport for ladies4 ,hunting was still a noble sport1 but it was more for men than for women4 ,the court hunted not only in royal company1 but accepted invitations from any seigneur who possessed an ample preserve and who could put up a good kill2 magistrates1 financiers and bishops1 indeed all classes1 became followers of the hunt4 ,montgaillard tells of a hunt in which he took part on the feast day of ,saint ,bernard1 with the monks of the ,bernardin ,convent in ,languedoc4 ,in the episcopal domain of ,saverne six hundred beaters were employed on one occasion to provide sport for an assembled company of lords and ladies4 ,these were the days when the bishops were in truth ,grand ,seigneurs4 ,the women of the court1 while they played the game1 ceded nothing to the men in bravery4 ,neither rain1 hail nor snow frightened them4 ,on the #bhth of ,june1 #agac1 ,louis ,,xiv was hunting the deer at ,rambouillet when a terrific1 cyclonic storm fell upon the equipage1 but not a man nor woman in the monarch's party quit4 ,the ,duchesse de ,berry was wet to the skin1 but her ardour for the hunt was not in the least cooled4 ,to-day at ,fontainebleau or ,rambouillet the echo is sounded from the hunting horn of ,labaudy1 the sugar-king1 who pulls off at least two hunts1 with his spectacular equipage1 each year1 and it is a sight too2 a ,french hunting party was ever picturesque1 and if to-day not as practical as the more blood-loving ,englishman's hunt1 is at least traditionally sentimental1 even artificial to the extent1 at any rate1 that it seems stagy1 even to the inclusion of the automobiles which bring and carry away the participants4 ,other days1 other ways never had a more strict application than to la chasse a courre in ,france4 ,two accounts are here given of two comparatively modern figures in the ,french hunting field1 which show the great store set by the sport in ,france4 ,in the annals of the ,chateau de ,grosbois1 belonging to-day to the ,prince de ,wagram1 are the accounts of an early nineteenth century hunt1 which shows that the game cost dear4 ,the ,grand ,veneur of the ,napoleonic reign was a master sportsman1 indeed1 and to-day1 in a gallery of the chateau1 are preserved the guns of the master1 his hunting crop and saddle1 his colours and his hunting horn4 ,from the registers of the chateau1 under date of ,december #aj1 #ahji1 the following1 which concerned a hunting party given by the chatelain1 is extracted verbatim4 ,note of the ,maitre d',hotel for collations for the guests #h1bbf francs ,illuminations #a1jhj francs ,gratifications to the beaters #a1jjj francs ,eau de ,cologne for the ladies #cj francs ,gun-bearers #adh francs ,helpers 7#aej7 #fjj francs ,aids 7#bjj7 #cae francs ,another hunt was given in #ahaa1 in honour of ,napoleon1 when such items as three thousand francs for an orchestra1 a like sum for bouquets for the ladies1 a thousand or two for bonbons and fans1 and twelve thousand for hired furniture1 etc41 to say nothing of the expenses of the hunt itself1 made the bag somewhat costly4 ,it was not always easy for the master of the hunt to get justice when it came to paying for his supplies1 and in these same records a mention of a dozen leather breeches at a hundred and forty francs each was crossed off and a marginal note1 ,non1 added in the hand of ,marechal ,berthier1 ,prince de ,wagram1 himself4 ,the chief figure in the ,french hunting world of to-day is another descendant of the ,napoleonic portrait gallery1 ,prince ,murat4 ,at the age of twelve the young ,prince ,joachim had already followed the hounds at ,fontainebleau and ,compiegne4 ,in his double quality of relative and companion of the ,prince ,imperial he was one of the chiefs of the equipment of the ,imperial ,hunt4 ,to-day1 though well past the span of life1 he is as active and as enduring in his participation in the strenuous sport as many a younger man and his knowledge of the grand art of venerie1 and his ardour for being always ahead with the hounds1 is noted by all who may happen to see him while jaunting through the ,foret de ,compiegne1 keeping well up with the traditions of his worthy elder1 the ,premier ,cavalier of the ,first ,empire1 the ,king of ,naples4 ,illustration3 ,an ,imperial ,hunt at ,fontainebleau ,he won his first stripes in the hunting field at ,compiegne in #ahfh1 at a hunt given in honour of the ,prince de ,hohenzollern and the ,princesse1 who was the sister of the ,king of ,portugal4 ,it was a most moving event1 so much so that it just escaped being turned into a drama1 for one of the ladies of the court had a leg broken1 and the minister1 ,fould1 was almost mortally injured4 ,a dix cors1 a stag with antlers of ten branches1 had been run down at the ,rond ,royal where it had taken refuge in a near-by copse1 and after an hour's hard chase was finally cornered in the courtyard of some farm buildings of the ,hameau d',orillets4 ,a troop of cows was entering the courtyard at the same moment1 and a most confused melee ensued4 ,the ,inspector of ,forests saved the situation and the cows of the farmer1 and the stag fell to the carabine of ,prince de la ,moskowa1 with the young ,prince ,murat on his pony in the very front rank4 ,thus early initiated in the chivalrous sport of the hunt the young man followed every hunt1 big or little1 which was held in the environs of ,paris for many years1 and by the time that he came to possess the epaulettes of an ,officier de ,cuirassiers he was known to all the hunts from the ,ardennes to ,anjou4 ,for the past generation he has been retired to civil life by a ,republican decree1 and since that time has lived in his suburban ,paris property1 devoting himself to the raising of hunters4 ,here he lives almost on the borders of that great extent of forest which occupies the northern section of the ,ile de ,france1 occasionally organizing a hunt1 which takes on not a little of the noble aspect of a former time1 the prince following always within sound of the hunting horn and the baying of the hounds1 if not actually always within sight of the quarry4 ,it is here1 in his ,villa ,normande1 near which ,saint ,ouen gave ,dagobert that famous counsel which has gone down in history1 that the ,prince and ,princesse ,murat come to pass two or three months each year with their children1 their allied parents and the great guns of the old regime who still gather about the master of the hunt as courtiers gather around their king4 ,at ,chamblay there have been held magnificent gun shoots under the organization of the prince and his equipage4 ,his kennels contain forty-eight of the finest bred hounds in ,france1 and are guarded by three caretakers1 the goader1 ,carl1 whose fame has reached every hunting court of ,europe and a couple of valets des chiens4 ,the prince's colours are distributed as follows3 a huzzar jacket of blue1 with collar1 plaquettes1 and vest of grenadine and breeches of a darker blue4 ,formerly ,prince ,murat hunted the roe-deer in the valley of the ,oise1 but many enclosures of private property having made this exceedingly difficult in later years he is to-day obliged to go farther afield4 ,in the spring the equipage goes to ,rosny1 near ,mantes1 and perhaps during the same season occasionally to ,rambouillet4 ,the hunts at ,chamblay are the perfection of the practice of the art4 ,seldom is the quarry wanting4 ,the refrain of the ,ode to ,saint ,hubert lauds the prowess of this great ,maitre d',equipage4 ,par ,saint ,hubert mon patron ,c'est quelque due de haut renom 99 99 99 ,sonnez3 ecuyers et piqueux ,un ,murat vien en ces lieux4 ,chamblay fortunately being neither populous nor near a great town there is no throng of curious spectators hovering about to get in the way and scare the game and the hounds and their followers out of their wits4 ,the ,chasse de ,chamblay is the devotion of the vrais veneurs2 the ,prince ,murat and his son1 the ,prince ,joachim1 7to-day at the military school at ,saint ,cyr71 the ,prince ,eugene ,murat1 the ,comte de ,vallon1 the ,baron de ,neuflize and a few famous veneurs in gay uniforms come from afar to give eclat to the hunt of the master4 ,and the ladies3 the following names are of those devoted to the prowess of the ,prince ,murat--,madame la ,princesse1 la ,princesse ,marguerite ,murat1 ,mademoiselle d',elchingen1 the ,duchesse and the ,marquise d',albufera1 the ,duchesse de ,camestra1 and ,madame ,kraft4 ,from this one sees that romance is not all smouldering4 ,if other proof were wanting a perusal of that most complete and interesting account of the hunt in ,france in modern times1 ,les ,chasses de ,rambouillet 7,ouvrage offert par ,monsieur ,felix ,faure7 would soon establish it4 ,this was not a work destined for the public at large4 ,the hunt was ever a sport of kings in ,france1 and though ,france has become ,republican its ,chasse ,nationale at ,rambouillet partakes not a little of the aspect of those courtly days when there was less up-to-dateness and more sentiment4 ,illustration3 ,rendezvous de ,chasse1 ,rambouillet ,there were but one hundred copies of this work printed for the friends of the late president of the ,republic--,other ,sovereigns1 as the dedication reads1 ,princes1 ,grand ,dukes1 ,ambassadors4 ,rambouillet was the theatre of the most splendid hunts of the sixteenth century1 and down through the ages it has ever held a preeminent place2 holds it to-day even4 ,louis ,,xvi in the ,revolutionary torment even regretted the cutting off of his prerogative of the royal hunt1 but he had no choice in the matter4 ,in his journal of #aghi one reads3 the cerf runs alone in the ,parc en ,bas 7,rambouillet71 and again in #agij3 ,seance of the ,national ,assembly at noon2 ,audience of a deputation in the afternoon4 ,the deer plentiful at ,gambayseuil4 ,the ,revolution felled many ,french institutions2 low1 great1 ecclesiastical and monarchial monuments1 the trees of the forest1 and the royal game1 by a system of poaching1 had become greatly diminished in quantity4 ,the nineteenth century1 so frankly democratic in its latter years1 was less favourable to the hunt than the monarchial days which had gone before4 ,it had a considerable prominence under ,charles ,x1 more perhaps than it ever had under ,napoleon1 who in his infancy and laborious adolescence had few opportunities of following it2 and in the later years of his life he was too busy4 ,napoleon ,,iii was not really a good hunter1 though he was something of a marksman and took a considerable pride in his skill in that accomplishment4 ,entering the democratic era1 ,jules ,grevy seems to have been only a pot-hunter of the bourgeoisie1 who practiced the art only because he wanted a jugged hare for his dinner1 or again simply to kill time4 ,sadi-,carnot was still less a hunter of the romantic school1 but assisted frequently at the ceremonial shootings which were arranged for visiting monarchs4 ,on one occasion he was put down on the record-sheet of a hunt at ,rambouillet as responsible only for the death of eighteen heads1 whilst a visiting ,grand ,duke pulled down a hundred and fifty4 ,it was notably during the presidency of ,felix ,faure that ,rambouillet again took on its animation of former times4 ,the chateau had been furbished up once more after a long sleep1 and1 to the great satisfaction of the inhabitants of the town1 there were more comings and goings than there had been for a quarter of a century4 ,in the summer and autumn the president made ,rambouillet his preferred residence1 and there received many visiting sovereigns and notables of all ranks4 ,in one year a score of ,official ,hunts were held1 to which all the members of the diplomatic corps were invited1 while there were two or three affairs of an ,international character in honour of visiting sovereigns4 ,all was under the control of the ,grand ,veneur of the ,third ,republic1 the ,comte de ,girardin1 and while a truly royal flavour may have been lacking the general aspect was much the same as it might have been in the days of the monarchy4 ,the ,captain of the ,hunt under ,felix ,faure was the ,inspector of ,forests1 ,leddet1 and the ,premier ,veneur was the ,commandant ,lagarenne4 ,the president himself was a marksman of the first rank1 and never was there a reckoning up of the tableau but that he was near the head of the list4 ,so accomplished was he with the rifle that on more than one occasion he was obliged to practically efface himself in favour of some visiting monarch1 as it was said he did in the case of the ,king of ,portugal in #ahie1 the ,grand ,ducs ,vladimir and ,nicolas in #ahif4 ,huntsmen not royal by virtue of title1 or alliance1 the ,republican president beat to a stand-still4 ,he had no pity nor favour for a mere ambassador1 whether he hailed from ,england or ,germany1 nor for members of the ,institute1 ,senators nor ,deputies4 ,with ,prince ,albert of ,monaco he held himself equal1 and for every bird shot on the wing by the head of the house of ,grimaldi the longshoreman of ,havre brought down another4 ,la chasse a courre before the law in ,france to-day may be practiced only under strictly laid down conditions4 ,the huntsman must legally have his dogs under such control1 and keep sufficiently close to them1 as to be able to recover the quarry immediately after it has been closed in upon by the hounds4 ,like shooting1 since the ,decree of #ahdd1 hunting with hounds may only be undertaken under authority of a permis de chasse1 and in open season1 during the daytime1 and with the consent of the owners over whose properties the hunt is to be held4 ,the ceremony of the hunt in ,france now follows the traditions of the classic hunt of the monarchy4 ,the veneur decides on the rendezvous1 whether the quarry be stag or chevreuil1 fox or hare4 ,the piqueur follows close up with the dogs1 sets them on or calls them off1 and recalls them if they go off on a false scent4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,palais ,,de ,,la ,,cite ,,and ,,tournelles ,not every one assumes the ,paris ,palais de ,justice to ever have been the home of kings and queens4 ,it has not1 however1 always been a tilting ground for lawyers and criminals1 though1 no doubt1 when one comes to think of it1 it is in that role that it has acted its most thrilling episodes4 ,the ,saint ,chapelle1 the ,conciergerie and the great clock of the ,tour de l',horloge mark the ,palais de ,justice down in the books of most folk as one of the chief ,paris sights1 but it was as a royal residence that it first came into prominence4 ,this palace1 not the conglomerate half-secular1 half-religious pile of to-day1 but an edifice of some considerable importance1 existed from the earliest days of the ,frankish invasion1 and when occupied by ,clotilde1 the wife of ,clovis1 was known as the ,palais de la ,cite4 ,under the last of the kings of the ,first ,race this palace took on really splendid proportions4 ,when ,hugues ,capet arrived on the throne he abandoned the kingly residence formerly occupied by the ,frankish rulers1 the ,palais des ,thermes1 and installed his goods and chattels in this ,palais de la ,cite1 which his son ,robert had rebuilt under the direction of ,enguerrand de ,marigny4 ,up to the time of ,francis ,i it remained the preferred residence of the ,french monarchs1 regardless of the grander1 more luxuriously disposed ,louvre1 which had come into being4 ,philippe ,auguste1 by a contrary caprice1 would transact no kingly business elsewhere1 and it was within the walls of this palace that he married ,denmark's daughter4 ,his successors1 ,saint ,louis1 ,philippe-le-,hardi1 and ,philippe-le-,bel did their part in enlarging and beautifying the structure1 and ,saint ,louis laid the foundations of that peerless ,gothic gem--,la ,saint ,chapelle4 ,from the windows of the ,palais de la ,cite another ,charles assisted at an official massacre1 differing little from that of ,saint ,bartholemew's1 which was conducted from the ,louvre4 ,on the first floor of the ,palais de ,justice of to-day is the apartment paved in a mosaic of black and white marble1 with a painted and gilded wooden vaulting1 where ,charles ,v received the ,emperor ,charles ,,iv and the ,roi des ,romains4 ,the three monarchs1 accompanied by their families1 here supped together around a great round marble table1 a secret supper prolific of an entente cordiale which must have been the forerunner of recent ceremonies of a similar nature in ,france4 ,known as the ,salle de ,marbre1 this great chamber came later to be the ,tribunal where the courts sat4 ,it was only after the death of ,charles ,,vi1 at the beginning of the fifteenth century1 that the ,palais de la ,cite was given over wholly to the disciples of ,saint ,yves1 the judges1 advocates and notaries4 ,it became also the definite seat of the ,parliament and took the nomenclature of ,palais de ,justice1 though still inhabited at intermittent intervals by ,french royalties4 ,one such notable occasion was that when ,henry ,v of ,england was here married to ,catherine de ,france1 and when ,henry ,,vi of ,england took up his temporary residence here as king to the ,french4 ,in the fourteenth century the precincts of the ,palais de la ,cite--the open courtyard one assumes is meant--were invaded by the stalls of small shopkeepers1 some of which actually took root in wood and stone and became fixtures to such an extent that the courtyard was known as the ,galerie des ,merciers4 ,the great marble chamber after becoming the meeting place of the ,tribunal played a part at times dignified and at others banal4 ,an incident is recorded where the clerks and minor court officials danced on the famous marble table and played farces with the judicial bench serving as a stage4 ,it was said that1 on account of the immoralities which they represented1 the authorities were obliged to suppress the performances by law1 as they have in recent years the flagrant freedom of the ,quat'z ,arts4 ,up to the times of ,francis ,i but few events of importance unrolled themselves within the ,palais de la ,cite1 but in #afah a violent conflagration broke out leaving only the round towers of the ,conciergerie1 the tower and the church1 and that part of the main structure which housed the great ,salle de ,marbre1 unharmed4 ,apropos of this1 a joyous rhymester of the time made the following quatrain3 ,certes ce fut un triste jeu ,quand a ,paris ,dame ,justice ,pour avoir mange trop d'epice ,se mit le ,palais tout en feu4 ,jacques ,debrosse was charged with rebuilding the edifice after the fire and refitted first the ,grand ,salle1 to-day the famous ,salle des ,pas ,perdus1 crowded with the shuffling coming and going crowd of men and women whose business1 or no business at all1 brings them to this central point for the dissemination of legal gossip4 ,it is a magnificent apartment1 and1 to no great extent1 differs from what it was before the conflagration4 ,this ,salle consists of two parallel naves separated by a range of arcades and lighted by two great circular openings with four round-headed windows at either end4 ,its attributes are practically the same as they were in #afbb4 ,the structure1 take it as a whole1 may be said to date only from the seventeenth century1 but certain it is that the old ,palais de la ,cite is incorporated therein1 every stone of it1 and if its career was humdrum that was the fault of circumstances rather than from any inherent faults of its own4 ,the ,conciergerie1 that inelegant1 inconsistent architectural mixture of the ancient and modern1 considered apart1 though it properly enough is usually considered with the ,palais de ,justice1 was formerly the dwelling or guardhouse of the ,concierge of the ,palais de la ,cite4 ,his post was not merely that of the keeper of the gates2 he was a personage at court and was as autocratic as his more plebeian contemporaries of to-day1 for the ,paris concierge1 as we1 who have for years lived under their despotism well know1 is a very dreadful person4 ,in addition to being the governor of the royal dwelling this concierge was the guardian of the royal prisoners4 ,in #acdh he was further invested with the official title of ,bailli and the post was1 at times1 occupied by the highest and the most noble in the land1 among others ,philippe de ,savoie1 the friend of ,charles ,,vi1 and ,juvenal des ,oursins1 the historian of this prince4 ,the first to combine the two functions1 that of ,bailli and ,concierge1 was ,jacques ,coictier1 the doctor of ,louis ,,xi4 ,as a virtual prison the ,conciergerie only came to be transformed when ,charles ,v quitted the residence of the ,palais de la ,cite1 and the ,conciergerie1 as such1 only figures on the ,tournelles registers under date of #acia4 ,the fire of the latter part of the eighteenth century destroyed a large part of the building1 but enough remained to patch together the most serviceable of ,revolutionary prisons1 for at one time it held at least twelve hundred poor souls1 of whom two hundred and eighty-eight were killed off at one fell blow4 ,but one woman among them all actually came to her death within the prison walls4 ,this was ,la ,belle ,bouquetiere of the ,palais ,royal who1 in an access of jealous furor1 horribly mutilated a royal guardsman1 and for this met a most cruel death by being transfixed to a post and submitting to a trial of le fer et le feu4 ,in just what manner the punishment was applied one can best imagine for himself4 ,the ,revolutionary role of the ,conciergerie is a thing apart from the purport of this book1 hence is not further referred to4 ,going back to the time of ,francis ,i1 among the famous prisoners of state were ,louis de ,berquin1 the ,comte de ,mongomere1 the regicides ,ravaillac and ,damiens1 the ,marechal d',ancre1 ,cartouche1 ,mandrin and others4 ,to-day1 as a prison1 the ,conciergerie still performs its functions acceptably1 safeguarding those up for the assizes1 and those condemned to death before being sent on their long journey4 ,the three great flanking towers of the ,conciergerie are its chief architectural distinction to-day4 ,that of the left1 the largest1 is the ,tour d',argent1 that of the middle1 the ,tour ,bonchet1 and the third1 the ,tour de ,cesar or the ,tour de l',horloge4 ,this last is the only one which has preserved its mediaeval crenulated battlements aloft4 ,the great clock has been commonly considered the largest timepiece of its kind extant1 but it is doubtful if this now holds good with railways and insurance companies vying with each other to furnish the hour so legibly that he who runs may read4 ,across the ,pont au ,change1 from the ,palais de la ,cite1 by the ,louvre and out into the ,faubourg ,saint ,antoine1 one comes to the ,place des ,vosges1 the old ,place ,royale1 which occupies almost the same area as was covered by the courtyard of the ,palais des ,tournelles1 so called from its many towers4 ,all around the ,palais des ,tournelles was located a series of splendid hotels prives of the nobility4 ,in one of these1 the ,hotel de ,saint ,pol1 the king once lodged twenty-two visiting princes of the quality of ,dauphin 7the eldest son of a ruling monarch71 their suites and domestics4 ,charles ,v in his time amalgamated with his royal palace three of these magnificent private dwellings1 the ,hotel du ,petit ,musc1 the ,hotel de l',abbe de ,saint ,maur and the ,hotel du ,comte d',etampes4 ,the palace proper really faced on what is now the ,rue ,saint ,antoine1 opposite the ,hotel ,saint ,pol4 ,its historic and romantic memories of the sword and cloak period of gallantry were many1 but the edifice was demolished by the order of ,catherine de ,medici4 ,in the palace ,charles ,,vi was confined1 during the period of his insanity1 by order of the cruel ,isabeau de ,baviere4 ,the ,duke of ,bedford1 when regent for the minor ,henry ,,vi1 lodged here1 and upon the expulsion of the ,english it became the residence of ,charles ,,vii4 ,louis ,,xi and ,louis ,,xii each inhabited it1 and the latter died within its walls4 ,the ,palais des ,tournelles will go down to history chiefly because of that celebrated jousting bout held in its courtyard on the marriage day of the two princesses1 ,elizabeth and ,marguerite4 ,henri ,,ii and the elder princes1 his sons1 were to ride forth in tournament and break lances1 if possible1 with all comers4 ,the court1 including ,catherine de ,medici and the princess ,elizabeth1 wife of ,philippe ,,ii1 the late husband of ,mary ,tudor1 the two ,marguerites and other high personages were seated on a dais upholstered in damascened silk and ornamented with many-coloured streamers4 ,the time was ,july and the morning4 ,at a signal from ,catherine music burst forth and the bouts began4 ,the king rode forth at the head of his chevaliers1 wearing a suit of golden armour1 his sword handle set with jewels1 and1 in spite of the presence of his wife1 his lance flying black and white streamers1 the colours of ,diane de ,poitiers1 who had lately turned her affections from father unto son4 ,a herald proclaimed the opening of the combat1 and before night the king had broken the lances of the ,ducs de ,ferrare1 de ,guise1 and de ,nemours1 and was just about disarming when a masked knight approached from the ,faubourg ,saint ,antoine and challenged the king1 who1 in spite of being implored to desist by his queen1 entered the lists again and was ultimately wounded unto death by the sable knight4 ,henri ,,ii expired the same night in a bedchamber of the ,palais des ,tournelles1 whither he had been carried1 at the age of forty-one1 the victim of chance1 or the wile of the ,sieur de ,montgomeri1 the ancestor of ,england's present ,earl of ,eglinton4 ,the captain of the ,scotch ,guards1 ,montgomeri1 was not immediately pursued 7he meantime had fled the court71 but ,catherine de ,medici harboured for him a most bitter rancour4 ,pro and con ran his cause1 for he had his partisans1 but the ,marechal de ,matignon finally caught up with him in ,normandy and he was tortured and condemned to death for the crime of lese majeste--beating the king at his own game4 ,the widowed queen angrily ordered ,diane de ,poitiers from the court1 and caused the ,palais des ,tournelles to be razed4 ,this was her only means of showing her contempt for the woman who had played her royal spouse to his death as the ,romans played the gladiators of old2 and ,tournelles1 as a palatial monument of its time1 blotted out the rest when it disappeared from view4 ,a forest of spirelets soared aloft from the gables and rooftrees of the ,palais des ,tournelles4 ,there was no spectacle of the time more imposing than this sky-line silhouette of a ,paris palace2 not at ,chambord nor ,chenonceaux was the spectacle more fine4 ,it was like a fairy castle1 albeit that it was in the heart of a great city4 ,to the right of the ,palais des ,tournelles1 beyond the ,porte ,saint ,antoine1 was the ink-black1 frowning donjon of the ,bastille1 its severity in strong contrast with the more luxurious palaces of the princes which surrounded it not far away4 ,the charming ,place des ,vosges1 which occupies the site of ,tournelles to-day1 is another of ,paris's breathing spaces4 ,well may it be called a royal garden--a park virtually on a diminutive scale--since it was originally known as the ,place ,royale1 under ,henri ,,iv4 ,with the advent of the gascon ,henri de ,bearn this delightful little unspoiled corner of old ,paris took on the aspect which it now has4 ,within this enclosure were the usual garden or park attributes1 more or less artificially disposed1 but making an ideal open-air playground for the court1 shut in from outside surroundings by the outlines of the old palace walls1 and not too far away from the royal palace of the ,louvre4 ,the first and greatest historic souvenir of this garden was a ,carrousel given in #afab1 by ,marie de ,medici1 two years after the tragic death of ,henri ,,iv1 celebrating the alliance between ,france and ,spain4 ,under ,richelieu the square became known as the ,place des ,vosges1 and1 in spite of the law against duelling1 which had by this time come into force1 it became a celebrated meeting place for duellists like ,ivry1 the ,grand' ,roue or the ,vel' ,hiver of to-day4 ,it was on ,may #ab1 #afbg1 that the ,comte des ,chappell killed ,bussy d',amboise on this spot1 and left a bloody souvenir1 which was only forgotten by the historians when they had to recount another meeting1 this time between the ,catholic ,duc de ,guise and the ,protestant ,coligny d',andelot4 ,monsieur1 said the duke1 we will now proceed to settle that little account between our illustrious houses1 and with that he drew his sword and killed ,coligny1 as if he were but stamping the life out of a caterpillar4 ,now1 with all this bloody memory behind1 the ,place became one of the most elegant residential quarters of the capital1 preferred above all by the nobility1 the ,rohans1 the ,alegres and ,rotroux4 ,at ,no4 #ba lived ,victor ,hugo1 just before the ,coup d',etat1 in the house first made famous as the habitation of the somewhat infamous ,marion ,delorme4 ,among other illustrious names who have given a brilliance to these alleyed walks and corridors are to be recalled ,corneille1 ,conde1 ,saint ,vincent de ,paul1 ,moliere1 ,turenne1 ,madame de ,longueville1 ,de ,thou1 ,cinq-,mars1 ,richelieu1 ,d',ormesson1 the ,prince de ,talmon1 the ,marquis de ,tesse and the ,comte de ,chabanne4 ,it is possible that this charming ,paris square will remain as ever it has been1 for a recent attempt of the owner of one of the houses which borders upon it to change the disposition of the facade brought about a law-suit which compelled him to respect the procedure which obtained in #afje when it was ordained the ,place ,royale4 ,to prove their rights the civic authorities had recourse to the original plans still preserved in the national archives4 ,this is a demonstration of how carefully ,european nations preserve the written records of their pasts4 ,the decision finally arrived at by the courts--that the ,place des ,vosges must be kept intact as originally planned--gave joy to the hearts of all true ,parisians and archeologists alike4 ,illustration3 ,,bird',s ,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,old ,,paris ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,old ,,louvre ,,and ,,its ,,history ,a stroll by the banks of the ,seine will review much of the history of the capital1 as much of it as was bound up with ,notre ,dame1 the ,louvre and the ,palais de la ,cite 7now the ,palais de ,justice71 and that was a great deal1 even in mediaeval and ,renaissance times4 ,the life of the ,louvre was ,paris2 the life of ,paris that of the nation2 and the life of the nation that of the people4 ,this even the ,parisians of to-day will tell you4 ,it is scant acknowledgment of the provinces to be sure1 but what would you8 ,the ,french capital is much more the capital of ,france than ,london is of ,england1 or ,washington of ,america--leaving politics out of the question4 ,paris before the conquest by the ,franks was practically only the ,seine-surrounded isle known as ,lutetia1 and later as ,la ,cite1 and the slight overflow which crept up the slopes of the ,montagne de la ,sainte ,genevieve4 ,from the ,chatelet to the ,louvre was a damp1 murky swamp called1 even in the moyen-age1 ,les ,champeaux1 meaning the ,little ,fields1 but swampy ones1 as inferred by studying the evolution of the name still further4 ,a rapid rivulet descended from ,menilmontant and mingled with the ,seine somewhere near the ,garden of the ,tuileries4 ,clovis and his ,franks attacked the city opposite the isle1 and1 upon the actual achievement of their conquest1 threw up an entrenched camp on the approved ,roman plan in what is now the courtyard of the old ,louvre1 and filled the moat with the waters of this rivulet4 ,the ensemble was1 according to certain authorities1 baptized the ,louvre1 or ,lower1 meaning a fortified camp4 ,this entrenchment was made necessary in order that the ,franks might sustain themselves against the ,gallo-,roman occupants of ,lutetia1 and in time enabled them to acquire the whole surrounding region for their own dominion4 ,this the ,lower1 or ,louvre1 made possible1 and it is well deserved that its name should be thus perpetuated1 though actually the origin of the name is in debate1 as will be seen by a further explanation which follows4 ,little by little this half-barbaric camp--in contradistinction to the more solid works of the ,romans--became a placefort1 then a chateau1 then a palace and1 finally1 as the young lady tourist said1 an art museum4 ,well1 at any rate1 it was a dignified evolution4 ,two ,louvres disappeared before the crystallization of the present rather irregularly cut gem4 ,from the ,merovingians dates the ,louvre des ,champs1 the hostile1 militant ,louvre1 with its high wood and stone tower1 familiar only in old engravings4 ,after this the moyen-age ,louvre1 attributable to ,saint ,louis and ,charles ,v1 with its great tower1 its thick walls of stone and its deep-dug moats1 came into being4 ,with ,francis ,i came a more sympathetic1 a more subtle era of architectural display1 a softening of outlines and an interpolation of flowering gables4 ,it was thus that was born that noble monument known as the ,new ,louvre1 which combined all the arts and graces of a fastidious ambition4 ,nothing remains of the old ,louverie 7to which the name had become corrupted7 which ,philippe ,auguste early in the thirteenth century caused to be turned into an ambitious quadrangular castle from a somewhat more humble establishment which had evolved itself on the site of the ,frankish camp1 save the white marble outline sunken in the pavement of the courtyard of the palace of to-day4 ,by destiny this palace1 set down in the very heart of ,paris1 was to dominate everything round about4 ,from the date of its birth1 and since that time1 it has had no rivals among ,paris or suburban palaces4 ,its very situation compelled the playing of an auspicious part1 and the ,seine flowing swiftly by its ramparts added no small charm to the fetes and ceremonies of both the ,louvre and the ,tuileries4 ,never was a great river so allied with the life of a royal capital2 never a stream so in harmony with other civic beauties as is the ,seine with ,paris4 ,when ,henri ,,ii entered ,paris after his ,sacrament he contemplated a water-festival on the ,seine1 which was to extend from the walls of the ,louvre to the towers of ,notre ,dame1 a festival with such elaborate decorations as had never been known in the ,french capital4 ,the kings of ,france after their ,sacrament entered the ,louvre by the quay-side entrance1 followed by their cortege of gayly caparisoned cavaliers and gilded coaches with personages of all ranks in doublet and robe1 cape and doublet4 ,the scintillating of gold lace and burnished coats gave a brilliance which rivalled that of the sun4 ,no sooner had the cavalcade entered the gates of the ,louvre than it came out again to participate in the day and night festival1 which had the bosom of the ,seine for its stage and its bridges and banks for the act drop and the wings4 ,the receptions of ,ambassadors1 the baptisms of royalties1 royal marriages and celebrations of victories1 or treaties1 were all feted in the same manner4 ,napoleon glorified the ,peace of ,amiens under similar conditions1 and there is scarce a chronicler of any reign but that recounts the part played by the ,seine in the ceremonies of the court of the ,new and ,old ,louvre4 ,it was amid a setting which lent itself so readily to all this that the ,old ,louvre1 which was rebuilt by ,francis ,i1 first came to its glory4 ,the origin of the name ,louvre has still other interpretation from that previously given4 ,it seems to be a question of grave doubt among the savants1 but because the note is an interesting one it is here reproduced4 ,the name may have been derived as well from the word oeuvre1 from the ,latin opus2 it may have been evolved from lupara1 or louverie 7place of wolves71 which seems improbable4 ,it may have had its evolution from either one of these origins1 or it may not4 ,anglo-,saxons may be proud of the fact that certain ,french savants have acknowledged that the name of the most celebrated of all ,paris palaces is a derivation from a word belonging to their tongue and meaning habitation4 ,this1 then1 is another version and one may choose that which is most to his liking1 or may go back and show his preference for lower1 meaning a fortified place4 ,a palace--something more elaborate than a mere habitation--stood on the same site in the twelfth century1 a work which1 under the energies of ,philippe ,auguste1 in #abjd began to grow to still more splendid proportions1 though infinitesimal one may well conclude as compared with the mass which all ,paris knows to-day under the inclusive appellation of ,the ,louvre4 ,the ,paris of ,philippe ,auguste was already a city of a hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants1 with mean houses on every side and little pretense at even primitive comforts or conveniences4 ,this far-seeing monarch laid hand first on the great citadel tower of the fortified lower1 added to its flanking walls and built a circling rampart around the capital itself4 ,it is recounted that the rumbling carts1 sinking deep in mud and plowing through foot-deep dust beneath the palace windows1 annoyed the monarch so much that he instituted what must have been the first city paving work on record1 and commanded that all the chief thoroughfares passing near the ,louvre should be paved with cobbles4 ,this was real municipal improvement4 ,he was a ,solon among his kind for1 since that day1 it has been a sine qua non that for the well-keeping of city streets they must be paved1 and1 though cobblestones have since gone out of fashion1 it was this monarch who first showed us how to do it4 ,the ,louvre of ,philippe ,auguste was the most imposing edifice of the ,paris of its time4 ,to no little extent was this imposing outline due to its great central tower1 the maitresse1 which was surrounded by twenty-three dames d'honneur1 without counting numberless tourelles4 ,this hydra-towered giant palace was the real guardian of the ,paris of mediaevalism1 as its successor is indeed the real centre of the ,paris of to-day4 ,the city was but an immense mass of low-lying gable-roofed houses1 whose crowning apex was the sky-line of the ,louvre1 with that of ,tournelles only less prominent to the north1 and that of ,la ,cite hard by on the island where the ,palais de ,justice and ,notre ,dame now stand4 ,before the hand of ,francis fell upon the ,louvre it was but an isolated stronghold--a combined castle1 prison and palace1 gloomy1 foreboding and surrounded by moats and ramparts almost impassable4 ,philippe ,auguste built well and made of it an admirable and imposing castle and a place of defence1 and a defence it was1 and not much more4 ,for its time it was of great proportions and of an ideal situation from a strategic point of view2 far more so than the isolated ,palais de la ,cite in the middle of the ,seine4 ,four gates led out from the inner courtyard of the ,old ,louvre3 one to the ,seine2 one to the south1 facing ,saint ,germain l',auxerrois2 another towards the site of the later ,tuileries2 and the other to about where the ,rue ,marengo cuts the ,rue de ,rivoli of to-day4 ,with the endorsement given it by ,philippe ,auguste the ,louvre now became the official residence of the kings of the ,capetian race1 whereas previously they had dwelt but intermittently at ,paris1 chiefly in the ,palais de la ,cite4 ,the monarch1 as if to test the efficiency of his new residence as a stronghold1 made a dungeon tower1 his greatest constructive achievement until he built the castle of ,gisors1 and in the tower imprisoned the ,comte de ,flandre1 whom he had taken prisoner at ,bouvines4 ,louis ,,ix 7,saint ,louis71 in his turn1 built a spacious annex to ,philippe ,auguste's ,louvre1 to which he attached his name4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,xiv ,,century ,,louvre ,charles ,v totally changed the aspect of the palace from what it had formerly been--half-fortress1 half-residence--and made of it a veritable palace in truth as well as in name1 by the addition of numerous dependencies4 ,within a tower which was built during the reign of this monarch1 called the ,tour de la ,librairie1 he assembled his royal bibelots and founded what was afterwards known as the ,bibliotheque du ,louvre1 the egg from which was hatched the present magnificently endowed ,bibliotheque ,nationale in the ,rue ,richelieu4 ,it is related that in #acgc the valet-de-chambre of ,charles ,v made a catalogue of the nine hundred and ten volumes which formed this collection1 an immense number for the time when it is known that his predecessor1 ,jean-le-,bon1 possessed but seven volumes of history and four devotional books as his entire literary treasure4 ,this seems to be a bibliographical note of interest which has hitherto been overlooked4 ,charles ,v was evidently a man of taste1 or he would not have built so well1 though all is hearsay1 as not a fragment remains of the work upon which he spent his talents and energies4 ,from the death of ,charles ,v1 in #acfd1 until #aeeg the ,louvre by some caprice ceased to be a permanent royal residence4 ,at the latter epoch the ambitious1 art-loving ,francis ,i conceived the idea that here was a wealth of scaffolding upon which to graft some of his ,renaissance luxuries and1 by a process of restoration 7perhaps an unfortunate word for him to have employed1 since it meant the razing of the fine tower built by ,charles ,v71 added somewhat to the splendours thereof1 though in a fickle moment1 as was his wont1 allowed a gap of a dozen years to intervene between the outlining of his project and the terrifically earnest work which finally resulted in the magnificent structure accredited to him1 though indeed it meant the demolition of the original edifice4 ,it was at this period that ,charles ,v entered into the ambitious part which ,francis was to henceforth play in the ,louvre1 so perhaps the interruption was pardonable4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,louvre ,,of ,,francis ,i ,,and ,,its ,,successors ,one can attribute the demise of the ,old ,louvre to the coming of ,charles ,v to ,paris in #aeci4 ,this royal residence1 hastily put in order to receive his august presence1 seemed so coldly inconvenient and inhospitable to his host1 ,francis ,i1 that that monarch decided forthwith upon its complete reconstruction and enlargement4 ,owing to various combinations of circumstances the actual work of reconstruction was put off until #aedf1 thus the ,new ,louvre as properly belongs to the reign of ,henri ,,ii as to that of his father4 ,francis ,i1 more than any other ,european monarch of his time1 or1 indeed1 before or since1 left his mark as an architect of supreme tastes over every edifice with which he came into personal contact4 ,his mania was for building--when it was not for affairs of the heart--and so daring was he that when he could not get an old fabric to remodel he would brave all1 as did ,louis ,,xiv at ,versailles1 and erect a dream palace in the midst of a desert4 ,this he did at ,chambord in the ,sologne4 ,at ,paris his difficulties were perhaps no less1 but he had his materials and his workmen ready at hand4 ,francis's repairs and embellishments to the ,old ,louvre were by no means perfunctory1 but he saw possibilities greater than he was able to perform with the means at hand4 ,he first razed the central tower1 or donjon1 and scarce before the departure of his royal guest1 was already dreaming of replacing the entire fabric with another which should bear the same name4 ,one has read of the monarch's thoughts when he was awaiting the coming to ,paris of his old enemy in the peninsula2 how he regretted the moment when he should sally out to meet him and leave his new-found friend1 the ,duchesse d',etampes1 in spite of her pleadings for him to remain by her4 ,all this is mere historic incident1 and has little to do with ,francis's art instincts and ambitions4 ,he probably thought this very thing himself when he replied to the importunate lady3 ,duchesse1 ,i must tear myself away without more ado2 ,i go to meet my brother monarch at ,amboise on the ,loire4 ,it was ,francis ,i1 the passionate lover of art1 who collected the first pictures which formed the foundation of the present collections of the ,musee ,national du ,louvre4 ,he bought many in foreign parts1 and many others were brought from ,italy by ,italian artists1 whom he had commanded to the capital3 ,primaticcio brought with him1 upon his arrival1 more than a hundred antique statues4 ,these art objects were first assembled at ,fontainebleau and ornamented the apartments of the king4 ,among them were ,da ,vinci's ,la ,joconde and ,raphael's ,holy ,family and ,saint ,michael4 ,henri ,,ii1 ,henri ,,iv1 and ,louis ,,xiii did little to enrich the art collections of the palace1 but ,louis ,,xiv charged his minister1 ,colbert1 with numerous purchases4 ,in #affa he bought the fine collection left by ,cardinal ,mazarin1 and ten years later purchased the contents of the celebrated gallery belonging to the banker ,jacob of ,cologne4 ,the state expended for these acquisitions nearly six hundred thousand livres1 and received for this sum six hundred paintings and six thousand drawings4 ,it was at this period that the royal collections were transferred to ,paris1 a little before the death of ,colbert1 when they were placed in the galleries of the ,louvre2 though it was a hundred years later that a national museum was actually created4 ,this was virtually brought about from the fact that the royal collections were transported in a great part to ,versailles1 only to be returned to ,paris in #agej1 transferred again to ,versailles1 and ultimately to be returned to ,paris under the sheltering wing of the grand old ,louvre4 ,the ,museum of the ,louvre1 the ,museum ,national et ,central des ,arts1 is the outgrowth of a ,decree of the ,convention1 dated ,july #bg1 #agic4 ,it was aided and enriched considerably under ,napoleon ,i1 that passionate lover of the beautiful1 who1 none too scrupulously1 would even seek to make a campaign in order to acquire art works for the museum of his capital4 ,many of these abducted art treasures 7like the horses of ,saint ,marc1 for instance7 were afterwards returned to their original owners1 but the nucleus of this unrivaled art museum was chiefly due to the consul and emperor4 ,as soon as ,charles ,v had left the ,louvre demolition was at once begun by ,francis1 and in #aeda an ,italian1 ,serlio1 was bidden prepare a set of plans for the ,renaissance glory that was to be4 ,serlio1 refusing1 or debating the price1 was cast aside for the ,frenchman1 ,lescot1 whose plan was adopted4 ,the work can in no way be said to have suffered by the change of plans1 for though ,pierre ,lescot was as yet a name unknown in the world of architecture his talents were sufficiently great1 magistrate and parliamentary counsellor though he was1 to give to ,paris what has ever been accounted its chief ,renaissance glory4 ,work was begun at once1 a work which was not interrupted by intrigues of court1 of love1 of war1 nor by the deaths of ,francis ,i nor his successor1 ,henri ,,ii4 ,although the work was begun in an energetic manner it was #aeee before the western wing was ready for the hand of the sculptors1 but from this time on1 judging from the interpolated monograms of ,charles ,,ix and ,henri ,,iv on the south wing1 work progressed less hurriedly4 ,the two other constructions1 which were to enclose the quadrangle to the north and east1 were completed under such circumstances that there has never been a question as to their period4 ,for fifteen years the work went on1 when suddenly it was abandoned as were the plans of ,lescot4 ,a sole wing1 that following the ,seine and abutting at right angles against the ,pavilion de l',horloge1 had resulted4 ,the sculptures of its south facade1 as well as certain of its interior decorations1 were entrusted to ,jean ,goujon 7#aebj-aegb71 who became a victim of the horrible night of ,saint ,bartholomew1 planned in the same ,louvre by the wily ,medici4 ,henri ,,ii often dwelt over ,lescot's plans and devices1 and1 on one occasion1 when the poet ,ronsard was present1 demanded of the architect the meaning of the decorations surrounding a great oeil-de-boeuf window1 two kneeling figures1 one blowing a trumpet1 and the other extending a palm branch4 ,victory and ,fame1 replied ,lescot4 ,and1 in honour of the architect and his sentiment1 ,ronsard composed his ,franciade4 ,the detail was actually by ,goujon1 whose design it was1 under the oversight of the master architect4 ,one may see this chef d'oeuvre to-day just above the courtyard portal to the west4 ,at the death of ,henri ,,ii1 ,catherine de ,medici came here to live alone1 and built the great extension1 which stands to-day and joins the ,old ,louvre with that portion along the banks of the ,seine by the double arch1 through which swing the autobusses coming from the ,rive ,gauche with such a ,juggernaut grind that fears for the foundation of the palace are ever uppermost in the minds of those responsible for its preservation4 ,illustration3 ,the ,louvre ,it is in this ,catherine de ,medici portion of the ,louvre 7#aegh7 that the present ,galerie des ,antiques is installed1 and which is usually thronged1 in season and out1 with globe-trotting sight-seers who give seldom a thought to its constructive elegance and its association with the ,medici4 ,with the first years of the reign of ,charles ,,ix1 there is to be remarked a notable slowness of procedure with regard to the construction of the ,new ,louvre4 ,this was brought about chiefly by the conception of the ,tuileries and the work which was actually begun thereon4 ,soon a gigantic idea radiated from the ambitious mind of ,catherine de ,medici4 ,in this connection it must be remembered1 however1 that ,catherine1 so commonly reviled as the ,italian1 was not all ,italian2 ,french blood flowed through her veins through that of her mother1 ,madeleine de la ,tour d',auvergne4 ,she came first to ,france1 landing at ,marseilles1 whence she arrived from ,leghorn1 and forthwith commenced her journey ,parisward1 arriving finally at the ,louvre as the bride of ,prince ,henri in the guise of a simple1 clever girl1 though indeed she was twenty years the elder4 ,now she dreamed of uniting her chateau of the ,tuileries with that of the king by a long1 connecting gallery4 ,she put action to the thought and under ,pierre 7,,ii7 ,chambiges1 a relative of the ,chambiges of ,fontainebleau and ,saint ,germain1 the ,petite ,galerie1 a mere means of communication between the two chateaux1 and not the least to be likened to a defensive structure1 was begun and work thereon carried out between #aefd and #aega1 though it remained for ,thibaut ,metezeau1 in #aeie-aeif1 to carry it on a stage further under ,henri ,,iv4 ,this architect introduced the notorious mezzanine1 which has so intrigued historians of the ,louvre because of the unequal elevations of the various floors1 a procedure which was unavoidable save by recourse to a substitution less to be objected to than the existing fault4 ,actually the connection with the ,tuileries was made by the prolongation of this gallery by the ,ducerceau brothers in #aeie4 ,the work existing to-day1 but only in its reconstructed form1 is the same as that completed by ,napoleon ,,iii 7#ahfc-ahfh74 ,charles ,,ix and ,henri ,,iii1 though making the ,louvre their residence1 practically had no hand in its embellishment4 ,the former gave his energies and ideals full play in the ,saint ,bartholomew massacres and shot at poor unfortunates who fled beneath the windows of his apartments on the quay-side of the ,louvre4 ,this1 if not the chief incident of his association with the fabric1 is at least the best remembered one4 ,henri ,,iii1 too1 led a scandalous life within the walls of the ,louvre and fled on horseback1 smuggled out a back door1 as it were1 on a certain ,may evening in #aehh1 never more to return1 for the ,dominican monk ,jacques ,clement killed him with a knife-thrust before he had got beyond ,saint ,cloud4 ,the accepted tale of the part played by the famous window of the ,louvre in the drama of ,saint ,bartholomew's night is as follows3 ,as the signal tolled from the belfry of ,saint ,germain l',auxerrois it was answered by another peal from the great bell of the ,palais de ,justice1 where1 within a small apartment over the watergate of the ,louvre1 the queen and her two sons were huddled together not knowing what might happen next4 ,the multitude streamed by on the quay before the palace1 and1 finally1 amid all the horror of ,coligny's murder1 and the throwing of his body from a window of the ,louvre to the street below1 ,charles ,,ix stood at his window regarding the fleeing ,huguenots as so much small game1 shooting away at them with an arquebuse as they went by1 and with an unholy glee1 even boasting that he had killed a score of heretics in a quarter of an hour4 ,historians of those exciting times were perhaps none too faithful chroniclers and ,charles's excellent shots in his royal hunt1 and hideous oaths and threats such as3 ,we'll have them all1 even the women and children1 are not details as well authenticated as we would like to have them4 ,like ,rizzio's blood stains they lack conviction4 ,the ambitious white-plumed ,henri de ,navarre1 when he became ,henri ,,iv of ,france1 set about to connect the tentacle which stretched southward from the ,old ,louvre with the ,tuileries 7a continuation of the project of ,catherine de ,medici71 and1 by the end of the sixteenth century1 had built a long facade under the advice of the brothers ,ducerceau4 ,this work was added to on the courtyard side under the ,second ,empire1 when a reconstruction1 more likely a strengthening of underpinning and walls because of their proximity to the swift-flowing waters of the ,seine1 of the work of ,henri ,,iv was undertaken4 ,joining the ,tuileries and this work of ,ducerceau was the celebrated ,pavilion de ,flore1 a work of the ,henri ,,iv period rather than that of ,catherine de ,medici4 ,from the ,pavilion de ,flore to the ,pavilion de ,lesdiguieres ran this long gallery of the ,ducerceau and numerous interstices and unfinished vaults and arches leading towards the ,old ,louvre were1 at this epoch1 completed by ,metezeau and ,dupaira4 ,the chief apartment of this structure became known as the ,galerie ,henri ,,iv1 and was completed in #afjh4 ,at the death of ,henri ,,iv1 ,richelieu1 who at times builded so well1 and who at others was a base destroyer of monuments1 demolished that portion which remained of the edifice of ,charles ,v4 ,the work of ,pierre ,lescot was preserved1 however1 and to give symmetry and an additional extent of available space the rectangle facing ,saint ,germain l',auxerrois to-day was completed1 thus enclosing in one corner of its ample courtyard the foundations of the earlier work whose outlines are plainly traced in the pavement that those who view may build anew--if they can--the old structure of ,philippe ,auguste4 ,in mere magnitude the present quadrangle is something more than four times the extent of the ,louvre of the time of ,charles ,v4 ,this courtyard of the ,louvre is perhaps that spot in all ,paris which presents the greatest array of ,renaissance art treasures4 ,from ground to sky-line the facades are embroidered by the works from the magic hand of the ,siecle ,italien4 ,jean ,goujon himself has left his brilliant souvenirs on all sides1 caryatides1 festoons1 bas-reliefs1 statues and colonnades4 ,enthusiasm and devotion knew no bounds among those old craftsmen1 but all is well-ordered1 regular and correct4 ,he who mentions the ,louvre to a ,frenchman gives a greater pleasure than that of ,mehemet-,ali when one praises the pyramids4 ,in a way the ,louvre is the most magnificent edifice in the universe2 four palaces one piled up on another1 une ville entiere4 ,and when the ,louvre was linked with the ,tuileries in the real1 what a splendour it must have been for former generations to marvel at6 ,la plus belle et la plus grande chose sous le soleil4 ,this work of aggrandizement of the quadrangle was carried out by the architect ,lemercier on the basis of a project adopted in #afdb1 and1 to a great extent1 completed before the arrival of ,anne d',autriche1 twenty years later4 ,this queenly personage had ideas of her own as to what sort of a residence she would have in ,paris1 and beyond her personal needs little was done for the moment towards actually linking up the various loose ends1 each more or less complete in itself1 which now composed the ,paris palace of the ,french monarchs4 ,her son1 the king in person if not in power1 was not likely to be endowed with instincts which would put him in the rank of the traditional castle or palace builders of his race2 it was literature1 music and painting which more particularly flourished during his reign1 and so the ,austrian contented herself at first with merely putting the former apartments of ,catherine de ,medici into condition for her personal use and building a ,salle-de-,spectacle1 and--happy thought--a ,salle-des-,bains4 ,louis ,,xiv1 as he found time1 after the war of the ,fronde1 actually did bethink himself of completing1 in a way1 the work of his elders1 and charged the architect ,levau to finish off the north wing1 which was done in #affj4 ,a year later the ,galerie ,henri ,,iv was practically destroyed by fire and rebuilt by ,levau1 who gave the commission for its interior decoration to ,lebrun4 ,soon the south wing was completed1 leaving only the gap for the eastern facade which was intended to be the chief entrance to the mass of buildings1 which still bore the comprehensive name of ,the ,louvre4 ,for the accomplishment of this facade1 the demolition of certain dwellings of the nobility which had clustered around the royal fabric was necessary1 and the ,hotels du ,petit ,bourbon1 de ,villequier1 de ,chaumont1 ,la ,force1 ,de ,crequy1 de ,longueville1 and de ,choisy fell before the picks of the house-breakers4 ,levau commenced work on the facade at once1 and made rapid progress until #affd1 when an abrupt order came for him to stop all work4 ,political conspiracy1 graft1 if you like1 was at work1 and ,colbert1 little favourable towards ,levau1 made a proposition to the king to open a competition for the design and execution of the facade4 ,willingly enough1 his mind doubtless more occupied with other things1 ,louis ,,xiv agreed1 and a general call was sent out to all ,french architects to enter the lists4 ,confusion reigned1 and ,levau was about to be recalled when ,colbert spied an unrolled parchment in the corner and pounced upon it eagerly as the means of saving him from the dubious efforts of the former incumbent4 ,it was the non-professional plan submitted by a doctor in medicine1 one ,charles ,perrault4 ,jealous competitors made all sorts of criticisms and objections1 the chief contention being that if by any chance an architectural design by a pill-roller proved pleasing to the eye it was bound to be impracticable from an economic or constructive point of view1 or both4 ,this is often enough true1 and it proved to be so in this case1 for in spite of a certain amount of advice from an expert ,italian builder1 who had come to ,paris to help the good doctor with his difficult task 7for he actually received a commission for the work and completed it in #afgd71 the facade did not fit the rest of the fabric with which it was intended to join up1 and to-day it may be observed by the curious as being several feet out of line with the structure which faces on the ,rue de ,rivoli4 ,louis ,,xiv practically had no regard for the ,louvre and its architectural traditions2 his palatial garden-city idea1 worked out at ,versailles1 shows what an innovator he was4 ,he allowed the ,louvre to be filled up with all sorts of riffraff1 who were often given a lodging there in place of a money payment for some service rendered4 ,the ,louvre thus became a sort of genteel poor-house1 while king and court spent their time in the more ample country-house behind the ,meudon hills4 ,by #agej the ,louvre had become little more than an immense ruin1 humbled and desecrated2 a veritable orphan4 ,the ,marquis de ,marigny1 ,surintendant des ,batiments ,royaux1 obtained the authorization to chase out the parasites and clean up the ,augean stable and put things in order as best pleased his esthetic fancy1 but only with the early years of the nineteenth century did the ,louvre become a real palace again and worthy of its traditions4 ,from #ahjc to #ahac the architects ,fontaine and ,percier were constantly engaged in the work of repairs and additions1 and built 7for ,napoleon ,i7 the gallery which extends from what is now the ,place ,jeanne d',arc to the ,pavillon de ,rohan1 along the ,rue de ,rivoli4 ,this detached portion 7bound only to the ,tuileries7 was finally joined to the seventeenth century work of ,lemercier under ,louis ,napoleon in #aheb4 ,this gallery1 the work of moderns1 is no mean example of palace-building1 either4 ,it was the work of ,visconti and ,lefuel1 and with the adoption of this plan was finally accomplished the interpolation of that range of pavilions which gives the architecture of the ,louvre one of its principal distinctions4 ,named after the principal ministers of former administrations--,donon1 ,mollien1 ,daru1 ,richelieu1 ,colbert1 ,turgot1 etc41 these pavilions break up what would otherwise be monotonous1 elongated facades4 ,the inauguration of this last built portion of the palace was held on ,august #ad1 #aheg1 the occasion being celebrated by a banquet given by ,napoleon ,,iii to all the architects1 artists and labourers who had been engaged upon the work4 ,in the same ,salle1 two years later1 which took the name of ,salle des ,etats1 the emperor gave a diner de gala to the generals returning from the ,italian campaign4 ,still further resume of fact with regard to the main body of the ,louvre1 as well as with respect to its individual components1 will open never-ending vistas and pageants4 ,it is not possible in a chapter1 a book or a five-foot shelf to limn all that is even of cursory interest4 ,the well-known1 the little-known and the comparatively unknown mingle in varying proportions1 according to the individual mood or attitude4 ,to some the appeal will lie in the vastness of the fabric1 to others in the varied casts of characters which have played upon its stage1 still others will be impressed with the dramatic incidents1 and many more will retain only present-day memories of what they have themselves seen4 ,the ,louvre is a study of a lifetime4 ,to resume a none too complete chronology1 it is easy to recall the following important events which have taken place in the ,louvre since the days of ,henri ,,iii1 the period at which only the barest beginnings of the present structure had been projected4 ,in #aeia a ghastly procedure took place when four members of the ,conseil des ,seize were hung in the ,salle des ,caryatides by orders of the ,duc de ,mayenne4 ,like the horoscope which foretold the death of ,henri ,,iii1 another royal prophecy was cast in #afaj that reminds one of that which perhaps had not a little to do with the making away with the last of the ,valois princes4 ,the ,duc de ,vendome1 the son of ,henri ,,iv by ,gabrielle d',estrees1 handed the king a documentary horoscope signed by an astrologer calling himself ,la ,brosse1 which warned the king that he would run a great danger on ,may #ad in case he went abroad4 ,la ,brosse is an ass1 cried the king1 and crumpled the paper beneath his feet4 ,on the day in question the king started out to visit his minister1 ,sully1 at the ,arsenal4 ,it was then in turning from the ,rue ,saint ,honore into the ,rue de la ,ferroniere that the royal coach1 frequently blocked by crowds1 offered the opportunity to the assassin ,ravaillac1 who1 jumping upon the footboard1 stabbed the king twice in the breast4 ,after having been wounded the king was brought dying to the ,louvre4 ,his royal coach drew up beneath the vault through which throngs all ,paris to-day searching for a short cut from the river to ,saint ,honore4 ,it was but a short1 brief journey to the royal apartments above in the ,pavilion de l',horloge1 but it must have been an interminable calvary to the gallant ,henri de ,navarre4 ,the body was received by ,marie de ,medici in tears1 and the ,ducs de ,guise and d',epernon clattered out the courtyard on horseback to spread the false news that the king had suffered no harm4 ,fearing the results of too precipitate publishing of the disaster no other course was open4 ,a gruesome memory is that the ,swiss ,guard at the ,louvre surreptitiously acquired a quartier of the dismembered body of the regicide and roasted it in a fire set alight beneath the balcony of ,marie de ,medici as an indication of their faithfulness and loyalty4 ,it was ,sully1 the king's minister1 who ran first up the stairs to acquaint the queen of the tragedy--faithful ever to the interests of his royal master4 ,in spite of this1 one of the first acts of ,marie de ,medici as regent was to drive the ,baron de ,rosny and ,duc de ,sully away4 ,such is virtue's reward--sometimes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,lying on his bed1 his face uncovered1 clad in white satin and a bonnet of red velvet embroidered with gold1 was all that remained of ,henri ,,iv of ,france and ,navarre4 ,around the bed were nuns and monks from all the monasteries of ,paris to keep vigil of his soul4 ,so ends the chronicle closing the chapter of the relations of ,henri ,,iv with his ,paris palace4 ,no particularly tragic event took place here for some years4 ,henriette de ,france1 widow of ,charles ,i of ,england1 taking refuge in ,france from the troublous revolt at home1 lived in the ,louvre in #afdd4 ,she had at first been graciously received by ,mazarin1 but was finally accorded only the most strict necessities of life1 a mere lodging in the ,louvre1 a modest budget and a restricted entourage4 ,in #affb1 under ,louis ,,xiv1 ,moliere and his troup1 in a theatre installed in the ,salle des ,caryatides1 gave the first command performance on record4 ,the plays produced were1 ,nicodeme and ,le ,docteur ,amoureux4 ,an art note of interest is that ,sylvain ,bailly1 the first curator of the ,musee du ,louvre1 was born within its precincts in #agcf4 ,in the dark days of ,july1 #ahcj1 the populace attempted to pillage and sack the palace1 but after a bloody reprisal retired1 leaving hundreds of dead on the field4 ,the parterre beneath the famous colonnade was their burial place1 though a decade later the bodies were exhumed and again interred under the ,colonne de ,juillet in the ,place de la ,bastille4 ,le ,notre1 the gardener of kings1 laid out the first horticultural embellishments of the palace surroundings under ,louis ,,xiv1 and with little change his scheme of decoration lasted until the time of ,louis ,philippe1 who made away with much that was distinctive and excellent4 ,napoleon ,,iii came to the front with an improved decorative scheme1 but the hard flags of to-day1 the dusty gravel and the too sparse architectural embellishments do not mark the gardens of the ,louvre as being anything remarkable save as a desirable breathing spot for ,paris nursemaids and their charges4 ,the iron gates of the north1 south and east sides were put into place only in #ahee1 and at the ,commune served their purpose fairly well in holding the rabble at bay1 a rabble to whose credit is the fact that it respected the artistic inheritance enclosed by the ,louvre's walls4 ,no work of art in the museums was stolen or destroyed1 though the library disappeared4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,the ,,tuileries ,,and ,,its ,,gardens ,illustration3 ,,original ,,plan of the ,,tuileries ,no more sentimental interest ever attached itself to a royal ,french palace than that which surrounded the ,tuileries from its inception by ,charles ,,ix in the mid-sixteenth century to its extinction by the ,commune in #ahga4 ,the ,palace of the ,tuileries is no more1 the ,commune did for it as it did for the ,hotel de ,ville and many another noble monument of the capital1 and all that remains are the gardens set about with a few marble columns and gilt balls--themselves fragments of former decorative elements of the palace--to suggest what once was the heritage bequeathed the ,french by the ,medici who was the queen of ,saint ,bartholomew's night4 ,it was a palace of giddy gayety that drew its devotees to it only to destroy them4 ,crowned fools who wished to be called kings1 and others4 ,even its stones were chiselled as if with a certain malignancy and fatalism1 for they have all disappeared1 and their history1 even1 has not been written as large as that of those of many contemporary structures4 ,of the last five kings to which the ,tuileries gave shelter--not counting the ,second ,emperor--only one went straightway to the tomb2 one went to the scaffold and three others to exile4 ,a sorry dowry1 this1 for an inheritor of a palace at once so noble and admirable in spite of its unluckiness4 ,with the court followers and the nobility of the last days of the monarchy it was the same thing2 the ,tuileries was but a temporary shelter4 ,the scaffold accounted for many and banishment engulfed others to forgetfulness4 ,it was a commonplace at the time to repeat the warning3 ,o6 ,tuileries6 ,o6 ,tuileries6 ,mad indeed are those who enter thy walls1 for like ,louis ,,xvi1 ,napoleon1 ,charles ,x and ,louis ,philippe you shall make your exit by another door4 ,the origin of the name ,tuileries is somewhat ignominiously traced from that of a tile factory which existed here in the heart of ,paris1 on the banks of the ,seine1 in the sixteenth century4 ,the property1 which comprised a manor-house as well as the tile fields1 was known by the name of ,la ,sablonniere1 and came to the ,marquis ,neuville de ,villeroy1 ,superintendent of ,finances1 who built on the spot a sort of fortified chateau1 which1 if not of palatial dimensions1 was of a palatial prodigality of luxury4 ,louise de ,savoie1 mother of ,francis ,i1 acquired the property in #aeah and nine years later gave it to ,jean ,tiercelin1 the ,maitre d',hotel of the dauphin1 who later was to become ,henri ,,ii4 ,the lodge1 or manor-house1 had1 by #aefd1 fallen into so ruinous a state that ,catherine de ,medici1 the widow of ,henri ,,ii1 set about to lay the foundations of a new royal palace4 ,catherine never resided in her projected palace1 and in #aeff ,charles ,,ix1 her son1 gave the commission to ,philibert ,delorme to build a palace1 neighbouring upon the ,louvre1 but not to be connected therewith1 on the site of the ,tuileries4 ,on ,july #aa1 work was begun1 and the central pavilion and the two extremes were carried up two stories within a year4 ,the central structure was a great circular-domed edifice1 enclosing a marvellous ,escalier d',honneur4 ,the facade1 preceded by two terraced porticos1 was on the courtyard1 or garden1 between the edifice and the ,louvre4 ,it sat back to the present ,rue des ,tuileries4 ,the ,tuileries did not become a royal residence for some time after its completion1 for ,charles ,,ix clung tenaciously to his well-guarded apartments in the ,louvre2 for the central structure of the ,tuileries1 because of its lack of comparative height1 was hardly as much of a stronghold as he would have liked4 ,a contemporary note in connection with ,charles ,,ix and the ,tuileries is found in ,ronsard's ,epitre a ,charles ,,ix4 ,j'ay veu trop de macons ,bastir les ,tuileries1 ,et en trop de facons ,faire les momeries4 ,work on the edifice so auspiciously planned by ,delorme was practically discontinued during the reign of ,henri ,,iii1 owing to lack of funds4 ,the ,renaissance of ,delorme1 ,bullant1 ,lescot1 each of whom had a hand in the building of the ,tuileries1 expressed certain characteristic phases of architectural art in the reigns of ,francis ,i and ,henri ,,ii4 ,the reign of ,charles ,,ix was only another phase of that long reign of ,catherine de ,medici1 and architectural influences continued to follow along the same reminiscent ,italian lines1 particularly with reference to such edifices as the ,medici herself caused to be built4 ,in the dedication of ,philibert ,delorme's ,traite d',architecture he expressed himself thus with regard to the ,tuileries3 ,madame1 ,i see from day to day with an increasing pleasure the interest that your ,majesty takes in architecture4 ,the palace which you have built at ,paris near the ,pont ,neuf and the ,louvre is1 according to its disposition1 excellent and admirable to the extent that it pleases me beyond measure4 ,after ,delorme considerable changes were made and successfully carried out under the architects ,ducerceau1 ,duperac1 ,levau and ,dorbay4 ,a distinct feature of the work of ,delorme was his use of the column ornamented throughout its length1 which1 as he says in his written works1 he first employed in the ,palais de la ,majeste de la ,royne-,mere a ,paris4 ,of the ability of ,delorme there is no diversity of opinion to-day1 nor was there in his time4 ,besides the ,tuileries he has to his credit the ,chateau d',anet1 the ,chateau de ,saint ,maur1 that of ,meudon--built for the ,cardinal de ,lorraine1--and his important additions to the ,chateau de la ,muette and the ,chateaux of ,saint ,germain1 ,madrid and ,fontainebleau4 ,as might be supposed ,catherine de ,medici professed a great admiration for ,delorme and recompensed his talents with a royal generosity1 even nominating him as ,abbe of the ,convent of ,saint ,eloi de ,noyon1 a fact which caused the poet ,ronsard to evolve a political satire3 ,la ,truelle ,crossee4 ,at the same time that she was building the ,tuileries ,catherine de ,medici caused additions to be made to the ,louvre2 at least she undertook the completion of the unfinished portion1 which had been left for other hands to do4 ,the first historic souvenir which stands out prominently with regard to the ,palais des ,tuileries is the fete given four days before the fateful ,saint ,bartholomew's night4 ,it was the marriage fete of the gallant ,henri de ,bearn1 ,king of ,navarre1 and the wise and witty ,marguerite de ,valois4 ,henri ,,iv1 coming to the throne a quarter of a century after the admirable first year's work on the ,tuileries had been completed1 found that little had been done towards making it a really habitable place4 ,it had been hurriedly finished off to the second story1 and had served well enough for a temporary residence1 or as an overflow establishment where balls and fetes might be given without crowding1 but to the ambitious ,henri ,,iv nothing would do but that the pavilions should be bound together with a more imposing ligature1 and that the ,pavillon de ,flore should in turn be linked up with the ,louvre by a gallery4 ,under ,louis ,,xiii this latter really came to a conclusion according to the plans of the architect ,ducerceau1 but the inspiration of making the ,louvre and the ,tuileries one was due to ,henri ,,iv4 ,under ,louis ,,xiv and ,louis ,,xv the palace in its still attenuated form was scarcely more than a rambling lodging1 utterly lacking any of the noble apartments with which it was afterwards endowed4 ,the court at this time practically made ,versailles its headquarters4 ,neither of the above-mentioned monarchs made aught but cursory visits to the ,tuileries and left its occupancy to officers of the household and ministers of state4 ,it was in the reign of ,louis ,,xv that the ,florentine artist1 ,servandoni1 who was at the same time an eminent architect1 a remarkable painter and a maestro of a musician1 organized in the ,palais des ,tuileries the ,theatre des ,machines1 the first installed at ,paris1 and there came the ,comedie ,francaise1 the ,opera and the ,bouffes 7the ,comedie ,italienne7 and gave command performances before the court4 ,when the ,french resolved that ,louis ,,xvi should live in ,paris1 the ,palais des ,tuileries was actually offered him1 but it was a rather shabby place of royal residence so far as its interior appointments were concerned1 though in all ways appealing when viewed from without4 ,considerable repairs and embellishments were made1 but warring factions did much to make difficult any real artistic progress4 ,with the advent of ,louis ,,xvi there came a contrast to gayety and freedom from care in royal hearts and heads4 ,on ,october #e ,louis ,,xvi and the royal family hid themselves behind barred doors1 the convention taking up its sittings under the same roof and forthwith passing an act which allowed the completion of the palace according to the plans of ,vignon at an expense of three hundred thousand livres4 ,an almost entire transformation took place1 the money being seemingly well spent1 and the structure now first took its proper place among the monumental art treasures of the capital4 ,a dramatic incident took place at the great gate of the ,tuileries1 which faced the courtyard1 when1 on ,may #bh1 #agie1 the populace surged in waves against its sturdy barrier4 ,the ,deputy ,feraud met them at the steps4 ,you may enter only over my dead body1 he said4 ,no reply was made but to crack his skull1 behead the trunk and carry the head aloft on a pike to the very ,tribune where ,boissy d',anglas was presiding4 ,the ,salle de ,spectacle of the ,tuileries was1 even at this period1 the largest auditorium of its kind in ,europe1 having eight thousand stalls and boxes1 which gave a seating capacity of considerably more than that number of persons4 ,in #agic this playhouse1 of which the parquet occupied the ground floor of the ,pavillon de ,marsan1 underwent a strange metamorphosis when it became the legislative hall for the ,national ,convention4 ,all the names and emblems showing forth in its decorations and indicative of its ancient rule were changed into ,republican devices and symbols4 ,the ,pavillon de ,marsan was called the ,pavillon de l',egalite1 the ,pavillon du ,centre became the ,pavillon de l',unite and the ,pavillon de ,flore the ,pavillon de la ,liberte1 where was lodged the ,committee of ,public ,safety4 ,the ,hall of the ,convention1 according to reports of the time1 was an appalling mixture of grandeur and effeminacy with respect to its architectural lines4 ,surrounding that portion where the legislators actually sat was the great amphitheatre which for three years was occupied by a curious1 vociferous public1 more demonstrative1 even1 than those that had attended the former theatrical representations in the same apartment4 ,from the opening of the ,national ,convention to the reaction of ,thermidor it is estimated that more than three million people assisted at what they rightly1 or wrongly1 considered as a spectacle staged only for their amusement4 ,by the time ,napoleon had come into power the ,tuileries was hardly habitable1 and before taking up his residence he was obliged to make immediate and extensive transformations4 ,on ,february #ai1 #ahjj1 ,napoleon1 still ,first ,consul1 left the ,palais de ,luxembourg and took up his residence in the ,tuileries1 the ,third ,consul1 ,lebrun1 being lodged in the ,pavillon de ,flore1 in the ,petite ,appartement1 which ,marie ,antoinette had fitted up for her temporary accommodation when in town4 ,lebrun1 however1 gave up his lodging to the ,pope when the ,pontiff came to ,paris at ,napoleon's orders4 ,consul ,cambaceres1 however1 refused to shelter himself beneath the roof of the ,tuileries1 and indicated a preference for the magnificent ,hotel d',elboeuf1 which was accommodatingly put at his disposition4 ,napoleon entered the ,tuileries in state1 preceded and followed by an imposing cortege4 ,at the gate of the ,carrousel the consuls alighted from their carriages1 and were received by the ,consular ,guard4 ,on their arrival the consuls read the following inscription posted at the entrance3 ,on ,august #ajth monarchy in ,france was forever abolished2 it will never be restored4 ,by the #bjth of ,february the inscription had disappeared4 ,besides1 orders were given to cut down the two liberty trees which had been planted in the courtyard4 ,on ,august #aj a large quantity of cannon shot had been lodged in the facade of the ,tuileries1 and around the shot were written these words3 ,tenth of ,august4 ,the cannon balls disappeared1 as well as the inscriptions1 when the ,arc de ,triomphe was erected on the ,place du ,carrousel4 ,this alteration gave great satisfaction4 ,it was important for the tranquillity of ,france that the new government should inherit rather the sword of ,charlemagne than the guillotine of ,marat4 ,illustration3 ,salle des ,marechaux1 ,tuileries ,the imperial court soon displayed its splendour and magnificence in the ,palais des ,tuileries1 as a foregone conclusion anticipated4 ,in a gorgeous and imposing ,salle du ,trone one might have seen in the deep casement of the central window1 standing up1 their hats off1 the group of the ,corps ,diplomatique1 the members of which1 loaded with decorations1 ensigns1 and diamonds1 trembled in the presence of the ,little ,corporal of other days2 on the other side1 the host of the ,princes of the ,rhine ,confederation--all the personages that ,germany1 ,russia1 ,poland1 ,italy1 ,denmark1 ,spain1 all ,europe1 in one word1 ,england excepted1 had sent to ,paris4 ,it is needless to say that the wedding reception of ,napoleon and ,marie ,louise at the ,tuileries was celebrated with unusual magnificence4 ,another event1 on account of its peculiar moment1 strongly excited the enthusiasm of the ,french4 ,on ,march #bj1 #ahaa1 at seven o'clock in the morning1 the first salute of cannon announced that the empress had given birth to a child1 the future ,aiglon1 the ,king of ,rome4 ,after ,napoleon's occupancy of the ,tuileries it again served the monarch under the ,empire1 the ,restoration1 under ,louis ,philippe and under the ,second ,empire4 ,the palace of unhappy memory saw successively the fall of ,napoleon1 the entry of ,louis ,,xviii1 the file-by of the ,allies1 the flight of ,louis ,,xviii1 of ,charles ,x1 ,louis ,philippe and ,napoleon ,,iii4 ,up to the time of the ,second ,empire the ,tuileries preserved1 more or less1 its original interior arrangement1 and1 to a great extent1 the decorations with which it had been embellished under ,louis ,,xiv1 ,louis ,,xvi1 and ,napoleon ,i4 ,the ,pavilion de ,flore1 at the juncture of the ,tuileries and the ,louvre of ,henri ,,iv1 was practically rebuilt during the ,second ,empire1 but it followed closely the contemporary designs of the adjoining building4 ,here are quartered executive offices of the ,prefecture de la ,seine4 ,that portion facing the ,pont ,royal contains a series of fine sculptures by ,carpeaux1 the sole modern embellishments of this nature to be seen in or on a ,paris palace4 ,as the ,commune mob was fleeing before the army of ,versailles a conflagration broke out in the ,tuileries and soon the whole edifice was in flames4 ,within what may have been the briefest interval on record for a conflagration of its size the ,tuileries was but a smoking pile of half-calcined stones4 ,the ,tuileries had another brief day of glory when the ,prince ,president1 ,louis ,napoleon1 entered its gates1 coming straight from his inauguration at ,notre ,dame4 ,the cannon at the ,hotel des ,invalides blazed out a welcome and every patriot ,republican shouted3 ,vive ,napoleon6 ,they little knew1 little cared perhaps1 that he would some day become the ,second ,emperor4 ,the throng poured forth from the cathedral after the ,domine ,salvum and the benediction1 the clergy leading the way1 followed by the president and his attendants4 ,the orchestra played a lively march1 and the great bell in the tower boomed forth a glorious peal4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the president's carriage drew up before the gates of the ,tuileries and he entered the great apartment where a reception was given to various public and military bodies4 ,between seven and eight thousand naval and military officers paid their respects1 and about half a battalion of the army saluted1 among them two ,mamelukes4 ,while this ceremony was going on1 the ,place du ,carrousel was occupied by several squadrons of cavalry and the inner courtyards were practically infantry camps4 ,the government was taking no chances at the beginning of its career4 ,the reception lasted until well on towards evening1 when a banquet of four hundred covers was laid and partaken of by the invited guests4 ,the last days of the ,tuileries may be said to have commenced with that eventful ,september #c1 #ahgj1 at five o'clock in the afternoon1 when the ,empress ,eugenie received a telegraphic despatch from ,napoleon ,,iii announcing his captivity and the defeat of ,sedan4 ,it was the overthrow4 ,the evening and the night were calm2 the masses1 as yet1 were unaware of the fatal news the journals would publish on the morrow4 ,the following day was ,sunday2 the weather superb2 the disaster was finally announced and the masses thronged from all parts to the ,place de la ,concorde1 where a squadron of ,cuirassiers barred the bridge leading to the ,palais ,bourbon where the deputies were in session4 ,on the arrival of the news the empress had called in ,general ,trochu1 the ,military ,governor of ,paris1 and asked him if he could guarantee order4 ,he replied in the affirmative4 ,some hours later a group of deputies came to the empress and counselled her to sign1 not an abdication1 but a momentary renunciation of her powers as regent4 ,eugenie refused point-blank4 ,the throng1 passing by the left bank1 had arrived at the ,chamber of ,deputies1 and the formal sitting became a revolutionary one4 ,at three o'clock the imperial dynasty was proclaimed as at an end1 and a provisionary government installed4 ,henri ,rochefort1 the present editor of the ,intransingeant1 was delivered from the prison of ,sainte ,pelagie and made a member of the government4 ,by this time the mob which had invaded the ,place de la ,concorde became menacing4 ,the cry1 ,aux ,tuileries1 first launched by the street gamins1 soon became the slogan of the crowd4 ,to say it was to do it2 the great iron gates were closed1 but in default of a protecting force of arms it was an easy matter to scale them4 ,behind the curtained windows of the palace the empress witnessed the assault and murmured to her ladies-in-waiting3 ,it is then finished4 ,she turned towards the ,prince de ,metternich and the ,chevalier ,nigra1 and1 in the voice of a suppliant1 demanded3 ,que me consillez vous8 ,you must leave at once1 ,madame2 in a moment the palace will be invaded4 ,the empress became resigned and accompanied by ,madame ,le ,breton1 ,metternich and ,nigra started for the ,pavilion de ,flore1 passing through the ,galerie de ,musee and the ,galerie d',apollon1 finally leaving by the gate of the ,louvre1 which is opposite ,saint ,germain l',auxerrois4 ,the empress was at last out of the palace1 but not yet out of danger4 ,a band of manifestants1 making for the ,hotel de ,ville and shouting2 ,vive la ,republique1 recognized the empress1 but she mounted an empty fiacre with ,madame ,le ,breton1 and giving the driver the first address that entered her mind thus escaped further indignities1 and perhaps danger4 ,finally she found a refuge with ,doctor ,evans1 the ,american dentist living in the ,avenue ,malakoff1 from whose house she left for ,england on the following day4 ,this is the ,frenchman's point of view of one of the picturesque incidents of history4 ,it disposes of the legend that the empress left the ,tuileries in the carriage of ,doctor ,evans1 but this cannot be helped1 with due regard for the consensus of ,french opinion4 ,doctor ,evans was a family friend1 besides being the dentist who cared for the imperial teeth1 and it is not going beyond the truth to state that the fortunate ,american acquired not a little of his vogue and wealth by his association with ,napoleon ,,iii and his family4 ,by this time the populace had invaded the palace and cursed with indignities unmentionable the marble halls1 and the furnishings in general1 and pillaged such portable property as pleased the individual fancies of the spoilsmen4 ,after the signing of the ,peace ,treaty by the ,bordeaux ,assembly1 which now represented the governmental head1 and ,thiers had become president1 that worthy would do away with the cannon of which the ,national ,guard still held possession in their garrison on the ,butte of ,montmartre4 ,the orders which he sent forth came to be the signal for another outbreak on the part of the populace4 ,on ,march #ah the ,commune was proclaimed and ,citoyen ,dardelle1 an old ,african hunter1 was appointed military governor of the ,tuileries4 ,whatever this individual's military qualifications may have been1 he delivered himself to the enjoyment of a high and dissolute life in his luxurious apartments in the palace2 a fact which was speedily made note of by the still restless populace4 ,the ,citoyen ,rousselle1 a member of the ,communal ,government1 had the idea of organizing a series of popular concerts in the gardens of the ,tuileries for the profit of the wounded in the late friction4 ,hung on the walls1 at the entrance of each apartment was a placard which read3 ,fellow men1 the gold with which these walls were built was earned by your sweat4 ,to-day you are coming to your own4 ,remain faithful to your trust and see to it that the tyrants enter never more4 ,during one of these public concerts a poem of ,hegesippe ,moreau was read which terminated as follows1 and set the populace aflame4 99 99 99 ,et moi j'applaudirai2 ma jeuneusse engourdie ,se rechauffera a ce grand incendie4 ,he referred to the burning of the former abode of emperors and kings as a sort of sacrifice to the common good4 ,the public had held itself in hand very well up to this moment1 but applauded the verses vociferously4 ,the last of the concerts was held on ,may #ba1 the same day as the ,army of ,versailles entered ,paris4 ,night came1 and with it the raging1 red flames springing skywards from the roof of the ,tuileries4 ,in a few moments the flames had enveloped the entire building4 ,all the forces that it was possible to gather had been ordered upon the scene1 but they were unable to save the old palace1 and by one o'clock in the morning it was but a mass of smoking ruins4 ,the ,communards had done their work well4 ,before leaving its precincts they had sprinkled coal oil over every square metre of carpet1 window-hangings and tapestries1 and the slow-match was not long in passing the fire to its inflammable timber4 ,the library of the ,louvre was destroyed1 but the museums1 galleries and their famous collections fortunately escaped4 ,for a dozen years the lamentable ruins of the old palace of the ,tuileries reared their singed walls1 a witness and a reproach to the tempestuosity of a people4 ,finally1 in #ahhb1 ,monsieur ,achille ,picard undertook their removal for thirty-three thousand francs1 and within a year not a vestige1 not an unturned stone remained in its original place as a witness to this chapter of ,paris history4 ,two porticos of the ,pavillon de l',horloge1 originally forming a part of the ,tuileries1 have been re-erected on the terrace of the ,orangerie1 facing the ,place de la ,concorde4 ,there remain but two survivors of the late imperial sway in ,france1 the ,empress ,eugenie who lives in ,england1 and ,emile ,olivier1 l'homme au coeur leger1 who lives at ,saint ,tropez in the ,midi4 ,a ,paris journalist a year or more ago1 while sitting among a little coterie of literary and artistic folk at ,lavenue's famous terrace-cafe1 recounted the following incident clothed in most discreet language1 and since it bears upon the ,tuileries and its last occupants it is repeated here4 ,last night beneath the glamour of a ,september moon ,i saw a black shadow silently creep out from beneath the gloom of the arcades of the ,rue de ,rivoli just below the ,hotel ,continental4 ,it crossed the pavement and passed within the railings of the gardens opposite1 one of the gates to which1 by chance or prearranged design1 was still open4 ,it moved slowly here and there upon the gravelled walks and seated itself upon a solitary bench as if it were meditating upon the splendid though sad hours that had passed4 ,was it a wraith2 was it ,eugenie1 late empress of the ,french8 ,to have remembered such a dream of fancy for forty long years one must have been endowed with superhuman courage1 or an inexplicable conscience4 ,the ,rue des ,pyramides1 which has been prolonged to the banks of the ,seine1 will give those of the present generation who have never seen the ,tuileries an exact idea of its location4 ,if it still existed the facade of the palace would front upon this street4 ,the most moving history of the detailed horrors of the ,commune1 particularly with reference to the part played by the ,tuileries therein1 is to be found in ,maxime ,ducamp's ,les ,derniers ,convulsions de ,paris4 ,one relic of the ,tuileries left unharmed found a purchaser in a ,roumanian prince1 at a public sale held as late as #ahhi4 ,this was the ornately beautiful iron gate which separated the ,cour du ,carrousel from the ,cour des ,tuileries4 ,roumanian by birth1 ,french at heart and ,parisian by adoption1 this wealthy amateur1 for a trifle over eight thousand francs1 became the owner of a royal souvenir which must have cost five hundred times that sum4 ,the eastern front of the ,tuileries opened into a courtyard formed under the direction of the first ,napoleon4 ,it was separated from the ,place du ,carrousel by a handsome iron railing with gilt spear-heads extending the whole range of the palace4 ,from this court there were three entrances into the ,place du ,carrousel1 the central gate corresponding with the central pavilion of the palace1 the other two having their piers surmounted by colossal figures of victory1 peace1 history and ,france4 ,a gateway under each of the lateral galleries also communicated on the north with the ,rue de ,rivoli1 and on the south with the ,quai du ,louvre4 ,the ,place du ,carrousel was named in honour of a tournament held upon the spot by ,louis ,,xiv in #affb4 ,it communicated on the north with the ,rue ,richelieu and the ,rue de l',echelle1 and on the south with the ,pont ,royal and the ,pont du ,carrousel4 ,to-day in the square stands the triumphal arch erected by ,napoleon in #ahjf1 after the designs of ,percier and ,fontaine4 ,the newly laid-out and furbished-up gardens make the ,place du ,carrousel even more attractive than it was when set about with flagged areas1 gravelled walks and paved road ways1 and1 while the monumental and architectural accessories excel the horticultural embellishments in quantity1 the general effect is incomparably finer at present than anything known before4 ,plans for rebuilding the ,place du ,carrousel provide for a division into three distinct parts1 three grand pelouses1 a boulingrins a la ,francais1 or lawns of a circumscribed area1 according to the best traditions of ,le ,notre1 a border of flowers and a few decoratively disposed clumps of flowering shrubs1 the whole combined in such a way that the perspective and vista down the ,champs ,elysees will in no manner suffer4 ,the architect-landscapist1 ,m4 ,redon1 who has been charged with the work1 has drawn his inspiration from a series of unexecuted designs of ,le ,notre which have recently been brought to light from the innermost depths of the national archives4 ,it was a safe way of avoiding an anachronism1 and this time a government architect has chosen well his plan of execution4 ,in later years the question of the reembellishment of the ,garden of the ,tuileries has ever been before the public1 but little has actually been changed save the remaking of certain garden plots1 the planting of a few shrubs or the placing of a few statues4 ,the ,garden of the ,tuileries has a superficial area of #bcb1fcb square metres4 ,it is the most popular of all open spaces in the capital to the ,parisian who would take his walks abroad not too far from the centre of things4 ,the chief curiosity of the garden is the celebrated chestnut tree which burst into flower on the day of ,napoleon's arrival from ,elba--,march #bj4 ,the precocious tree has ever been revered by the ,bonapartists since1 though the tree has never performed the trick the second time4 ,statues innumerable are scattered here and there through the garden and give a certain sense of liveliness to the area4 ,some are by famous names1 others by those less renowned1 but as a whole they make little impression on one1 chiefly1 perhaps1 because one does not come to the ,garden of the ,tuileries to see statues4 ,to the left and right are the terraces1 first laid out by the celebrated ,le ,notre4 ,like the hanging gardens of ,babylon1 they overlook a lower level of parterres1 gravelled walks and ornamental waters4 ,along the ,rue de ,rivoli is the ,terrasse de l',orangerie1 and on the side of the river is the ,terrasse de la ,marine4 ,according to the original plans of ,le ,notre the garden was set down as five hundred toises in length1 and one hundred and sixty-eight toises in width1 the latter dimension corresponding to that of the facade of the palace4 ,along the shady avenues of this admirable city garden of to-day an enterprising concessionaire has won a fortune by renting out rush-bottomed chairs to nursemaids1 retired old gentlemen with red ribbons in their buttonholes1 and trippers from across the channel4 ,it is a perfectly legitimate enterprise and a profitable one it would seem1 and has been in operation considerably more than half a century4 ,it was from the ,gardens of the ,tuileries in #aghd that took place ,blanchard's celebrated ascension in ,montgolfier's balloon and brought forth the encomium from the ,british ,royal ,society that the body was not in the least surprised that a ,frenchman should have solved the problem of volatability4 ,the ,french monarch1 more practical1 was so mightily pleased with the success of the experiment that he bestowed upon the author the sum of four hundred thousand francs from his treasury to be used for the perfection of the art4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,palais ,,cardinal ,,and ,,the ,,palais ,,royal ,with the ,louvre and the ,tuileries the ,palais ,royal shares the popular interest of the traveller among all the monuments of ,paris4 ,no other edifice evokes more vivid souvenirs of its historic past than this hybrid palace of ,richelieu4 ,one dreams even to-day1 of its sumptuousness1 its legends1 its amusing and extravagant incidents which cast a halo of romantic interest over so many illustrious personages4 ,so thoroughly ,parisian is the ,palais ,royal in all things that it has been called the ,capital of ,paris4 ,not far from the walled and turreted stronghold of the old ,louvre rose the private palaces1 only a little less royal1 of the ,rambouillets1 the ,mercoeurs and other nobles of the courtly train4 ,they lived1 too1 in almost regal state until ,armand du ,plessis de ,richelieu came to humble their pride1 by fair means or foul1 by buying up or destroying their sumptuous dwellings1 levelling off a vast area of land1 and1 in #afbi1 commencing work on that imposing pile which was first known as the ,palais ,cardinal1 later the ,palais d',orleans1 then as the ,palais de la ,revolution and finally as the ,palais ,royal4 ,it was near1 yet far enough away from the royal residence of the ,louvre not to be overshadowed by it4 ,the edifice enclosed a great square of ground laid out with symmetrically planted trees and adorned with fountains and statues4 ,from the great central square four smaller courts opened out to each of the principal points of the compass2 there were also1 besides the living rooms1 a chapel1 two theatres1 ballrooms1 boudoirs and picture galleries1 all of a luxury never before dreamed of but by kings4 ,the main entrance was in the ,rue ,saint ,honore1 and over its portal were the graven arms of ,richelieu1 surmounted by the cardinal's hat and the inscription3 ,palais ,cardinal4 ,like his ,english compeer1 ,wolsey1 ,richelieu's ardour for building knew no restraint4 ,he added block upon block of buildings and yard upon yard to garden walls until all was a veritable labyrinth4 ,finally the usually subservient ,louis saw the condition of things2 he liked it not that his minister should dwell in marble halls more gorgeous than his own4 ,as a matter of policy the ,cardinal ceased to build more and at his death1 as if to atone1 willed the entire property to his king4 ,as the ,palais ,cardinal1 the edifice was subjected to many impertinent railleries from the public which1 as a whole1 was ever antagonistic to the ,homme ,rouge4 ,they did not admit the right of an apostolic prelate of the church to lodge himself so luxuriously when the very precepts of his religion recommended modesty and humility4 ,richelieu's contemporaries did not hesitate to admire wonderingly all this luxury of life and its accessories1 and ,corneille1 in the ,menteur 7#afdb71 makes one of the principal characters say3 ,non1 l'univers ne peut rien voir d'egal ,aux superbes dehors du ,palais ,cardinal2 ,toute une ville entiere avec pompe batie1 ,semble d'un vieux fosse par miracle sortie1 ,et nous fais presumer a ses superbes toits ,que tous ses habitants sont des dieux ou des rois4 ,the ground plan of the ,palais ,cardinal was something unique among city palaces4 ,in the beginning ground values were not what they are to-day in ,paris4 ,there were acres upon acres of greensward set about and cut up with gravelled walks1 great alleyed rows of trees1 groves without number and galleries and colonnades innumerable4 ,without roared the traffic of a great city1 a less noisy traffic than that of to-day1 perhaps1 but still a contrasting maelstrom of bustle and furor as compared with the tranquillity within4 ,after the edifice was finished it actually fell into disuse1 except for the periodical intervals when the ,cardinal visited the capital4 ,at other times it was as quiet as a cemetery4 ,moss grew on the flags1 grass on the gravelled walks and tangled shrubbery killed off the budding flowers of the gardens4 ,richelieu's last home-coming1 after the execution of ,cinq-,mars at ,lyons1 was a tragic one4 ,the despot of ,france1 once again under his own rooftree1 threw himself upon his bed surrounded by his choicest pictures and tapestries1 and paid the price of his merciless arrogance towards all men--and women--by folding his wan hands upon his breast and exclaiming1 somewhat unconvincingly3 ,thus do ,i give myself to ,god4 ,as if recalling himself to the stern reality of things he added3 ,i have no enemies but those of ,state4 ,in a robe of purple silk1 supported by pillows of the finest down and covered with the rarest of laces1 he rigidly straightened himself out and expired without a shudder1 with the feeling that he was well beyond the reach of invisible foes4 ,but before he died ,richelieu received a visit from his king in person4 ,this was another token of his invincible power4 ,thus the ,palais ,royal was evolved from the ,palais ,cardinal of ,richelieu4 ,richelieu gave the orders for its construction to ,jacques ,lemercier immediately after he had dispossessed the ,rambouillets and the ,mercoeurs1 intending at first to erect only a comparatively modest town dwelling with an ample garden4 ,vanity1 or some other passion1 finally caused to grow up the magnificently proportioned edifice which was called the ,palais ,cardinal instead of that which was to be known more modestly as the ,hotel de ,richelieu4 ,vast and imposing1 but not without a certain graceful symmetry1 the ,palais ,royal of to-day is a composition of many separate edifices divided by a series of courts and gardens and connected by arcaded galleries4 ,the right wing enclosed an elaborate ,salle de ,spectacle while that to the left enclosed an equally imposing chamber with a ceiling by ,philippe de ,champaigne1 known as the ,galerie des ,hommes ,illustres1 and further ornamented with portraits of most of the court favourites of both sexes of the time4 ,the architectural ornamentation of this gallery was of the ,doric order1 most daringly interspersed with moulded ships' prows1 anchors1 cables and what not of a marine significance4 ,in #afcf1 divining the attitude of envy of many of the nobility who frequented his palace1 ,richelieu--great man of politics that he was--made a present of the entire lot of curios to ,louis ,,xiii1 but undertaking to house them for him1 which he did until his death in #afdb4 ,at the death of ,louis ,,xiii the ,palais ,cardinal1 which had been left to him in its entirety by the will of ,richelieu1 came to ,anne d',autriche1 the regent1 who1 with the infant ,louis ,,xiv and the royal family1 installed herself therein1 and from now on 7,october #g1 #afdb71 the edifice became known as the ,palais ,royal4 ,now commenced the political role of this sumptuous palace which hitherto had been but the ,cardinal's caprice4 ,mazarin had succeeded ,richelieu1 and to escape the anger of the ,frondeurs1 he1 with the regent and the two princes1 ,louis ,,xiv and the ,duc d',anjou1 fled to the refuge of ,saint ,germain-en-,laye4 ,in company with ,mademoiselle de ,montpensier1 who had been rudely awakened from her slumbers in the ,luxembourg1 they took a coach in the dead of night for ,saint ,germain4 ,it was a long and weary ride2 the ,pavi du ,roi was then1 as now1 the most execrable suburban highroad in existence4 ,when calm was reestablished ,mazarin refused to allow the regent to take up her residence again in the old abode of ,richelieu and turned it over to ,henriette de ,france1 the widow of ,charles ,i1 who had been banished from ,england by ,cromwell4 ,thirty odd years later ,louis ,,xiv1 when he was dreaming of his ,versailles project1 made a gift of the property to his nephew1 ,philippe d',orleans1 ,duc de ,chartres4 ,important reconstructions and rearrangements had been carried on from time to time1 but nothing so radical as to change the specious aspect of the palace of the ,cardinal's time1 though it had been considerably enlarged by extending it rearward and annexing the ,hotel ,danville in the present ,rue ,richelieu4 ,mansart on one occasion was called in and built a new gallery that ,coypel decorated with fourteen compositions after the ,a,enid of ,virgil4 ,under the regency the ,salon d',entree was redecorated by ,oppenard1 and a series of magnificent fetes was organized by the pleasure-loving queen from the ,austrian court4 ,richelieu's theatre was made into an opera-house1 and masked balls of an unparalleled magnificence were frequently given1 not forgetting to mention--without emphasis however--suppers of a ,pantagruelian opulence and lavish orgies at which the chronicles only hint4 ,in #affa1 ,monsieur1 brother of the king1 took up his official residence in the palace1 enlarged it in various directions and in many ways transformed and improved it4 ,having become the sole proprietor of the edifice and its gardens1 by ,letters ,patent of ,february1 #afib1 the ,duc d',orleans left this superb property1 in #agja1 to his son the too famous regent1 ,philippe d',orleans1 whose orgies and extravagances rendered the ,palais ,royal notorious to the utmost corners of ,europe4 ,the first years of the eighteenth century were indeed notorious4 ,it was then that ,palais ,royal became the head-centre for debauch and abandon4 ,it is from this epoch1 too1 that date the actual structures which to-day form this vast square of buildings1 at all events their general outline is little changed to-day from what it was at that time4 ,if the regent's policy was to carry the freedom and luxury of ,richelieu's time to excess1 replacing even the edifices of the ,cardinal with more elaborate structures1 his son ,louis 7#agbc-ageb7 sought in his turn to surround them with an atmosphere more austere4 ,a disastrous fire in #agfc caused the ,palais ,royal to be rebuilt by order of ,louis ,philippe d',orleans1 the future ,philippe-,egalite1 by the architect ,moreau1 who carried out the old traditions as to form and outline1 and considerably increased the extent and number of the arcades from one hundred and eighty to two hundred and seven4 ,these the astute duke immediately rented out to shopkeepers at an annual rental of more than ten millions4 ,this section was known characteristically enough as the ,palais ,marchand1 and thus the garden came to be surrounded by a monumental and classic arcade of shops which has ever remained a distinct feature of the palace4 ,a second fire burned out the ,national ,opera1 which now sought shelter in the ,palais ,royal1 and in #agha the ,theatre des ,varietes ,amusantes was constructed1 and which has since been made over into the home of the ,comedie ,francaise4 ,the transformations imposed by ,philippe-,egalite were considerable1 and the famous chestnut trees1 which had been planted within the courtyard in the seventeenth century by ,richelieu1 were cut down4 ,he built also the three transverse galleries which have cut the gardens of to-day into much smaller plots than they were in ,richelieu's time4 ,in spite of this there is still that pleasurable tranquillity to be had therein to-day1 scarcely a stone's throw from the rush and turmoil of the whirlpool of wheeled traffic which centres around the junction of the ,rue ,richelieu with the ,avenue de l',opera4 ,it is as an oasis in a turbulent sandstorm1 a beneficent shelf of rock in a whirlpool of rapids4 ,the only thing to be feared therein is that a toy aeroplane of some child will put an eye out1 or that the more devilish diabolo will crack one's skull4 ,under the regency of the ,duc ,philippe d',orleans the various apartments of the palace were the scenes of scandalous goings-on1 which were related at great length in the chronicles of the time4 ,it was a very mixed world which now frequented the purlieus of the ,palais ,royal4 ,men and women about town jostled with men of affairs1 financiers1 speculators and agitators of all ranks and of questionable respectability4 ,milords1 as strangers from across the ,manche came first to be known here1 delivered themselves to questionable society and still more questionable pleasures4 ,it was at a little later period that the ,duc de ,chartres authorized the establishment of the cafes and restaurants which for a couple of generations became the most celebrated rendezvous in ,paris--the ,cafe de ,foy1 the ,cafe de la ,paix1 the ,cafe ,carrazzo and various other places of reunion whose very names1 to say nothing of the incidents connected therewith1 have come down to history4 ,it was the establishment of these public rendezvous which contributed so largely to the events which unrolled themselves in the ,palais ,royal in #aghi4 ,this ,eden de l',enfer1 as it was known1 has in late years been entirely reconstructed2 the old haunts of the ,empire have gone and nothing has come to take their place4 ,then came another class of establishments which burned brilliantly in the second rank and were1 in a way1 political rendezvous also--the ,cafe de ,chartres and the ,cafe de ,valois4 ,of all these ,palais ,royal cafes of the early nineteenth century the most gorgeous and brilliant was the ,cafe des ,mille ,colonnes1 though its popularity was seemingly due to the charms of the maitresse de la maison1 a ,madame ,romain1 whose husband was a dried-up1 dwarfed little man of no account whatever4 ,madame ,romain1 however1 lived well up to her reputation as being incontestablement la plus jolie femme de ,paris4 ,by #ahbd the fame of the establishment had begun to wane and in #ahbf it expired1 though the ,almanach des ,gourmands of the latter year said that the proprietor was the ,very of limonadiers1 that his ices were superb1 his salons magnificent--and his prices exorbitant4 ,perhaps it was the latter that did it6 ,another establishment1 founded in #ahag1 was domiciled here1 the clients being served by odalisques en costume oriental1 tres seduisantes4 ,this is quoted from the advertisements of the day4 ,the cafe was called the ,cafe des ,circassiennes1 and there was a sultane1 who was the presiding genius of the place4 ,it met with but an indifferent success and soon closed its doors despite its supposedly all-compelling attractions4 ,in the mid-nineteenth century a revolution came over the cafes of ,paris4 ,tobacco had invaded their precincts2 previously one smoked only in the estaminets4 ,three cafes of the ,palais ,royal resisted the innovation1 the ,cafe de la ,galerie d',orleans1 the ,cafe de ,foy and the ,cafe de la ,rotonde4 ,to-day1 well1 to-day things are different4 ,the ,theatre du ,palais ,royal of to-day was the ,theatre des ,marionettes of the ,comte de ,beaujolais1 which had for contemporaries the ,fantoches ,italiens1 the ,ombres ,chinoises and the ,musee ,curtius1 perhaps the first of the wax-works shows that in later generations became so popular4 ,the ,palais ,royal had now become a vast amusement enterprise1 with side-shows of all sorts1 theatres1 concerts1 cafes1 restaurants1 clubs1 gambling-houses and what not--all paying rents1 and high ones1 to the proprietor4 ,in the centre of the garden1 where is now the fountain and its basin1 was a circus1 half underground and half above1 and there were innumerable booths and kiosks for the sale of foolish trifles1 all paying tribute to the ground landlord4 ,gaming at the ,palais ,royal was not wholly confined to the public gambling houses4 ,during the carnival season of #aggg the gambling which went on in the royal apartments became notorious for even that profligate time3 in one night the ,duc de ,chartres lost eight thousand livres4 ,louis ,,xvi1 honest man1 took all due precautions to reduce this extravagance1 but was impotent4 ,between the courtyard fountain and the northern arcade of the inner palace was placed the famous ,cannon du ,palais ,royal1 which1 by an ingenious disposition1 was fired each day at midday by the action of the sun's rays4 ,all the world stood around awaiting the moment when watches might be regulated for another twenty-four hours4 ,the celebrated ,abbe ,delille1 to whom the beauties of the gardens were being shown1 deplored the lack of good manners on the part of the habitues and delivered himself of the following appropriate quatrain3 ,dans ce jardin tout se rencontree ,excepte l'ombrage et les fleurs2 ,si l'on y deregle ses moeurs ,du moins on y regle sa montre4 ,the ,galerie de ,bois was perhaps the most disreputable of all the palace confines4 ,it was a long1 double row of booths which only disappeared when ,louis-,philippe built the glass-covered ,galerie d',orleans4 ,up to the eve of the ,revolution the ,palais ,royal enjoyed the same privileges as the ,temple and the ,luxembourg1 and became a sort of refuge whereby those who sought to escape from the police might lose themselves in the throng4 ,the monarch himself was obliged to ask permission of the ,duc d',orleans that his officials might pursue their police methods within the outer walls4 ,it was ,july #ab1 #aghi4 ,the evening before1 ,louis ,,xvi had dismissed his minister1 ,neckar1 but only on ,sunday1 the #abth1 did the news get abroad4 ,at the same time it was learned that the regiment known as the ,royal ,allemand1 under the orders of the ,prince de ,lambesc1 had charged the multitude gathered before the gates of the ,tuileries4 ,cries of ,a ,mort6 ,aux ,armes6 ,vengeance6 were hurled in air from all sides4 ,at high noon in the gardens of the ,palais ,royal1 on the #acth1 as the midday sun was scorching the flagstones to a grilling temperature1 the sound of a tiny cannon shot smote the still summer air with an echo which did not cease reverberating for months4 ,the careless1 unthinking promenaders suddenly grew grave1 then violently agitated and finally raving1 heedlessly mad4 ,a young unknown limb of the law1 ,camille ,desmoulins1 rushed bareheaded and shrieking out of the ,cafe de ,foy1 parted the crowd as a ship parts the waves1 sprang upon a chair and harangued the multitude with such a vehemence and conviction that they were with him as one man4 ,citizens1 he said1 ,i come from ,versailles 99 99 99 ,it only remains for us to choose our colours4 ,quelle couleur voulez vous8 ,green1 the colour of hope2 or the blue of ,cincinnati1 the colour of ,american liberty and democracy4 ,nous avons assez delibere6 ,deliberate further with our hands not our hearts6 ,we are the party the most numerous3 ,to arms6 ,on the morrow1 the now famous #adth of ,july1 the ,frenchman's glorious fourteenth1 the people rose and the ,bastille fell4 ,revolutionary decree1 in #agic1 converted the palace and its garden into the ,palais et ,jardin de la ,revolution1 and appropriated them as national property4 ,napoleon granted the palace to the ,tribunal for its seat1 and during the ,hundred ,days ,lucien ,bonaparte took up his residence there4 ,in #ahcj ,louis ,philippe d',orleans gave a great fete here in honour of the ,king of ,naples who had come to the capital to pay his respects to the ,french king4 ,charles ,x1 assisting at the ceremony as an invited guest1 was also present and a month later came again to actually inhabit the palace and make it royal once more4 ,illustration3 ,the ,galleries of the ,palais-,royal under ,napoleon ,first4 ,the table herewith showing the ramifications of the ,bourbon ,orleans family in modern times is interesting--all collateral branches of the genealogical tree sprouting from that of ,louis ,philippe4 ,the heraldic embellishments of this family tree offer a particular interest in that the armorial blazonings are in accord with a decree of the ,french ,tribunal1 handed down a few years since1 which establishes the right to the head of the house to bear the ecu plein de ,france--d'azur a trois fleurs de lys d'or1 thus establishing the ,orleans legitimacy4 ,illustration ,the ,republic of #ahdh made the palace the headquarters of the ,cour des ,comptes and of the ,etat ,major of the ,national ,guard4 ,under ,napoleon ,,iii the ,palais ,royal became the dwelling of ,prince ,jerome1 the uncle of the emperor4 ,later it served the same purpose for the son of ,prince ,napoleon4 ,it was at this epoch that the desecration of scraping out the blazoned lys and the chipping off the graven ,bourbon armoiries took place4 ,whenever one or the other hated ,bourbon symbol was found1 eagles1 phoenix-like1 sprang up in their place1 only in their turn to disappear when the ,republican device of '#dh 7now brought to light again71 ,liberte1 ,egalite1 ,fraternite--replaced them4 ,during the ,commune of #ahgj a part of the left wing and the central pavilion suffered by fire1 but restorations under the architect1 ,chabrol1 brought them back again to much their original outlines4 ,through all its changes of tenure and political vicissitudes little transformation took place as to the ground plan1 or sky-line silhouette1 of the chameleon palace of cardinal1 king and emperor1 and while in no sense is it architecturally imposing or luxurious1 it is now1 as ever in the past1 one of the most distinctive of ,paris's public monuments4 ,to-day the ,palais ,royal proper may be said to face on ,place du ,palais ,royal1 with its principal entrance at the end of a shallow courtyard separated from the street by an iron grille and flanked by two unimposing pavilions4 ,the principal facade hides the lodging of the ,conseil d',etat and is composed of but the ground floor1 a story above and an attic4 ,the ,aile ,montpensier1 which follows on from the edifice which houses the ,comedie ,francaise1 was1 until recently1 occupied by the ,cour des ,comptes4 ,the ,aile de ,valois fronts the street of that name1 and here the ,princes d',orleans and ,king ,jerome made their residence4 ,to-day the same wing is devoted to the uses of the ,under ,secretary for the ,beaux ,arts4 ,it is not necessary to insist on1 nor reiterate1 the decadence of the ,palais ,royal4 ,it is no longer the capitol of ,paris1 and whatever its charms may be they are mostly equivocal4 ,it is more a desert than an oasis or a temple de la volupte1 and it was each of these things in other days4 ,its priestesses and its gambling houses are gone1 and who shall say this of itself is not a good thing in spite of the admitted void4 ,the mediocrity of the ,palais ,royal is apparent to all who have the slightest acquaintance with the architectural orders1 but for all that its transition from the ,palais du ,cardinal1 ,palais ,egalite1 ,palais de la ,revolution and ,palais du ,tribunat to the ,palais ,royal lends to it an interest that many more gloriously artistic ,paris edifices quite lack4 ,there is a movement on foot to-day to resurrect the ,palais ,royal to some approach to its former distinction1 which is decidedly what it has not been for the past quarter of a century4 ,satirical persons have demanded as to what should be made of it1 a velodrome or a skating-rink1 but this is apart from a real consideration of the question for certain it is that much of its former charm can be restored to it without turning it into a ,luna ,park4 ,it is one of the too few ,paris breathing-spots1 and as such should be made more attractive than it is at the present time4 ,it was sixty years ago1 when ,louis ,philippe was the legitimate owner of the ,palais ,royal1 its galleries1 its shops1 its theatre and its gardens1 that it came to its first debasement4 ,one went there on tip-toe1 and spoke in a whisper1 said a writer of the time1 and one does not need to be particularly astute to see the significance of the remark4 ,it was ,alphonse ,karr1 the ecrivain-jardinier1 who set the new vogue for the ,palais ,royal1 but his interest and enthusiasm was not enough to resurrect it1 and so in later years it has sunk lower and lower4 ,the solitude of the ,palais ,royal has become a mockery and a solecism4 ,it is virtually a campo santo1 or could readily be made one1 and this in spite of the fact that it occupies one of the busiest and noisiest quarters of the capital1 a quadrangle bounded by the ,rues ,valois1 ,beaujolais1 ,montpensier and the ,place du ,palais ,royal4 ,the moment one enters its portal the simile accentuates and the hybrid shops which sell such equivocal bric-a-brac to clients of no taste and worse affectations carry out the idea of a cloister still further1 for actually the clients are few1 and those mostly strangers4 ,one holds his breath and ambles through the corridors glad enough to escape the bustle of the narrow streets which surround it1 but1 on the other hand1 glad enough to get out into the open again4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,luxembourg1 ,,the ,,elysee ,,and ,,the ,,palais ,,bourbon ,the kings and queens of ,france were not only rulers of the nation1 but they dominated the life of the capital as well4 ,upon their crowning or entry into ,paris it was the custom to command a gift by right from the inhabitants4 ,in #achi ,isabeau de ,baviere1 of dire memory1 got sixty thousand couronnes d'or1 and in #aeja1 and again in #aejd1 was presented with six thousand and ten thousand livres parisis respectively4 ,the king levied personal taxes on the inhabitants1 who were thus forced to pay for the privilege of having him live among them1 those of the professions and craftsmen1 who might from time to time serve the royal household1 paying the highest fees4 ,it was during the period of ,richelieu's ministry that ,paris flowered the most profusely4 ,the constructions of this epoch were so numerous and imposing that ,corneille in his comedy ,le ,menteur1 first produced in #afdb1 made his characters speak thus3 ,dorante3 ,paris semble a mes yeux un pays de roman 99 99 99 ,en superbes palais a change ses buissons 99 99 99 ,aux superbes dehors du palais ,cardinal ,tout la ville entiere1 avec pomp batie 99 99 99 ,in #agja1 ,louis ,,xiv divided the capital into twenty quartiers1 or wards1 and in #agbf-agbh ,louis ,,xv built a new city wall2 but it was only with ,louis ,,xvi that the faubourgs were at last brought within the city limits4 ,under the ,empire and the ,restoration but few changes were made1 and with the piercing of the new boulevards under ,napoleon ,,iii and ,baron ,haussmann the city came to be of much the same general plan that it is to-day4 ,in the olden time1 between the ,palais de la ,cite and the ,louvre and the ,palais des ,tournelles1 extending even to the walls of ,charenton1 was a gigantic garden1 a carpet embroidered with as varied a colouring as the tapis d'orient of the poets1 and cut here and there by alleys which separated it into little checker-board squares4 ,within this maze was the celebrated ,jardin ,dedalus that ,louis ,,xi gave to ,coictier1 and above it rose the observatory of the savant like a signal tower of the ,romans4 ,this centered upon what is now the ,place des ,vosges1 formerly the ,place ,royale4 ,to-day1 how changed is all this intermediate1 indeterminate region6 ,how changed1 indeed6 ,there is nothing vague and indeterminate about it to-day4 ,the earliest of the little known ,paris palaces was the ,palais des ,thermes4 ,it may be dismissed almost in a word from any consideration of the royal dwellings of ,paris1 though it was the residence of several ,roman emperors and two queens of ,france4 ,a single apartment of the old palace of the ,romans exists to-day--the old ,roman ,baths--but nothing of the days of the ,emperor ,constantius ,chlorus1 who founded the palace in honour of ,julian who was proclaimed ,emperor by his soldiers in #cfj ,a4,d4 ,the ,frankish monarchs1 if they ever resided here at all1 soon transferred their headquarters to the ,palais de la ,cite1 the ruins falling into the possession of the monks of ,cluny1 who built the present ,hotel de ,cluny on the site4 ,of all the minor ,french palaces the ,luxembourg and the ,elysee are the most often heard of in connection with the life of modern times4 ,the first is something a good deal more than an art museum1 and the latter more than the residence for the ,republican president1 though the guide-book makers hardly think it worth while to write down the facts4 ,the ,palais du ,luxembourg has been called an imitation of the ,pitti ,palace at ,florence1 but1 beyond the fact that it was an ,italian conception of ,marie de ,medici's1 it is difficult to follow the suggestion1 as the architect1 ,jacques ,debrosse1 one of the ablest of ,frenchmen in his line1 simply carried out the work on the general plan of the time of its building1 the early seventeenth century4 ,its three not very extensive pavilions are joined together by a colonnade which encloses a rather foreboding flagged courtyard1 a conception1 or elaboration1 of the original edifice by ,chalgrin1 in #ahjd1 under the orders of ,napoleon4 ,the garden front1 though a restoration of ,louis ,philippe1 is more in keeping with the original ,medici plan2 that1 at any rate1 is to its credit4 ,to-day the ,luxembourg1 the ,republican ,palais du ,senat1 is but an echo of the four centuries of aristocratic existence which upheld the name and fame of its first proprietor1 the ,duc de ,piney-,luxembourg1 ,prince de ,tigry1 who built it in the sixteenth century4 ,from #agcc to #agcf the palace underwent important restorations and the last persons to inhabit it before the ,revolution were the ,duchesse de ,brunswick1 the ,queen ,dowager of ,spain and the ,comte de ,provence1 brother of ,louis ,,xvi1 to whom it had been given by ,letters ,patent in #aggi4 ,illustration3 ,palais du ,luxembourg ,in #agia the ,convention thought so little of it that they made it a prison1 and a few years later it was called again the ,palais du ,directoire1 and1 before the end of the century1 the ,palais du ,consulat4 ,this was but a brief glory1 as ,napoleon transferred his residence in accordance with his augmenting ambitions1 to the ,tuileries in the following year4 ,by #ahgj the edifice had become known as the ,palais du ,senat1 then as the headquarters of the ,prefecture of the ,seine1 and finally1 as to-day1 the ,palais du ,luxembourg1 the seat of the ,french ,senate and the residence of the president of that body4 ,the principal public apartments are the ,library1 the ,salle des ,seances1 the ,buvette--formerly ,napoleon's ,cabinet de ,travail1 the ,salle des ,pas ,perdus--formerly the ,salle du ,trone1 the ,grand ,gallery and the apartments of ,marie de ,medici4 ,the chapel is modern and dates only from #ahdd4 ,the ,palais du ,petit ,luxembourg is the official residence of the president of the ,senate and dates also from the time of ,marie de ,medici4 ,the picture gallery is housed in a modern structure to the west of the ,petit ,luxembourg4 ,illustration ,the facade of the ,palais du ,senat is not altogether lovely and has little suggestion of the daintiness of the ,petit ,luxembourg1 but1 for all that1 it presents a certain dignified pose and the edifice serves its purpose well as the legislative hall of the upper house4 ,illustration3 ,the ,petit ,luxembourg ,the gardens of the ,luxembourg form another of those favourite ,paris playgrounds for nursemaids and their charges4 ,it is claimed that the children are all little ,legitimists in the ,luxembourg gardens1 whereas they are all ,red ,republicans at the ,tuileries4 ,one has no means of knowing this with certainty1 but it is assumed2 at any rate the ,legitimists are a very numerous class in the neighbourhood4 ,another class of childhood to be seen here is that composed of the offsprings of artists and professors of the ,latin quarter1 and of the active tradesmen of the neighbourhood4 ,they come here1 like the others1 for the fresh air1 to see a bit of greenery1 to hear the band play1 to sail their boats in the basins of the great fountain and enjoy themselves generally4 ,one notes a distinct difference in the dress and manners of the children of the gardens of the ,luxembourg from those of the ,tuileries and wonders if the breach will be widened further as they grow up4 ,the ,jardin du ,luxembourg is all that a great city garden should be1 ample1 commodious1 decorative and as thoroughly typical of ,paris as the ,pont ,neuf4 ,innumerable1 but rather mediocre1 statues are posed here and there between the palace and the observatory at the end of the long1 tree-lined avenue which stretches off to the south1 the only really historical monument of this nature being the celebrated ,fontaine de ,medicis by ,debrosse1 the architect of the palace4 ,it was a memorial to ,marie de ,medici4 ,while one is in this quarter of ,paris he has an opportunity to recall a royal memory now somewhat dimmed by time1 but still in evidence if one would delve deep4 ,as a matter of fact1 royalty never had much to do with this hybrid quarter of ,paris1 though1 indeed1 its past was romantic enough1 bordering as it does upon the real ,latin ,quarter of the students4 ,bounded on one side by the immense domain of the ,luxembourg1 it stretched away indefinitely beyond ,vaugiraud1 almost to ,clamart and ,sceaux4 ,illustration3 ,the ,luxembourg ,gardens ,at ,no4 #bg ,boulevard ,montparnasse is an elaborate seventeenth house-front half hidden by the modern style flats of twentieth century ,paris4 ,this relic of the grand siecle1 with its profusion of sculptured details1 was the house bought by ,louis ,,xiv about #afgb and given to the widow ,scarron1 the young and beautiful widow of the court1 as a recompense for the devotion with which she had educated the three children of the ,marquise de ,montespan1 who1 in #afgc1 were legitimatized as princes of the royal house--the ,duc de ,maine1 the ,comte de ,vexin and ,mademoiselle de ,mantes4 ,madame ,scarron1 who became in time ,madame de ,maintenon1 the vraie reine du roi1 died in #agai1 and the house passed to ,la ,tour d',auvergne4 ,on this same side of the river are the ,palais de l',institut and the ,palais ,bourbon4 ,the ,palais de l',institut1 or ,palais ,mazarin1 is hardly to be considered one of the domestic establishments1 the dwellings of kings1 with which contemporary ,paris was graced4 ,it was but a creation of ,mazarin1 the minister1 on the site of the ,hotel de ,nesle1 and was first known as the ,palais des ,quatre ,nations1 where were educated1 at the expense of the ,cardinal1 sixty young men of various nationalities4 ,the old chapel has since been transformed into the ,salle des ,seances of the ,institut de ,france1 the ,five ,french ,academies4 ,the black1 gloomy facade of the edifice1 to-day1 in spite of the cupola which gives a certain inspiring dignity1 is not lovely1 and tradition and sentiment alone give it its present interest1 though it is undeniably picturesque4 ,an inscription used to be on the pedestal of one of the fountains opposite the entrance which read3 ,superbe habitant du desert ,en ce lieu1 dis moi1 que fais tu --,tu le vois a mon habit vert ,je suis membre de l'institut4 ,if the inscription were still there it would save the asking of a lot of silly questions by strangers who pass this way for the first time4 ,the ,palais de l',institut is one of the sights of ,paris1 and its functions are notable1 though hardly belonging to the romantic school of past days1 for at present poets often make their entree via ,montmartre's ,chat ,noir1 or are elected simply because some other candidate has been blackbouled4 ,still following along the left bank of the ,seine one comes to the ,palais ,bourbon1 the ,chambre des ,deputes1 as it is better known4 ,this edifice1 where now sit the ,french deputies1 was built by ,girardini for the ,dowager ,duchesse de ,bourbon in #agbb1 and1 though much changed during various successive eras1 is still a unique variety of architectural embellishment which is not uncouth1 nor yet wholly appealing4 ,napoleon remade the heavily imposing facade1 so familiar to all who cross the river by the ,pont de la ,concorde1 but its grimness is its charm rather than its grace4 ,the structure cost its first proprietor twenty million or more francs1 and since it has become national property the outlay has been constant4 ,everything considered it makes a poor showing2 but its pseudo-,greek facade1 were it removed1 would certainly be missed in this section of ,paris4 ,the principal apartments are the ,salle des ,pas ,perdus1 the ,salle des ,seances1 and the ,salle des ,conferences--where1 in #ahcj1 the ,duc d',orleans took the oath as king of ,france4 ,a recent discovery has been made in the lumber room of this old ,palais ,bourbon1 where deputies howl and shout and make laws as noisily as in any other of the world's parliaments4 ,illustration3 ,the ,,throne of the ,,palais-,,bourbon ,this particular find was the throne constructed in #ahaf for ,louis ,,xviii1 with its upholstering of velvet embroidered with the golden fleur-de-lis4 ,the records tell that this throne also served ,louis ,philippe under the ,second ,empire1 and also was used under the ,monarchy of ,july4 ,it was after the momentous ,quatre ,setembre that it was finally relegated to the garret1 but now1 as a historical souvenir of the first rank1 it has been placed prominently where all who visit the ,palais ,bourbon may see it4 ,the history of the ,palais de l',elysee has not been particularly vivid1 though for two centuries it has played a most important part in the life of the capital4 ,in later years it has served well enough the presidential dignity of the chief magistrate of the ,french ,republic and is thus classed as a national property4 ,actually1 since its construction1 it has changed its name as often as it has changed its occupants4 ,its first occupant was its builder1 ,louis d',auvergne1 ,comte d',evreux1 who built himself this great town house on a plot of land which had been given him by ,louis ,,xv4 ,apparently the young man had no means of his own for the construction of his luxurious city dwelling1 for he refilled his coffers by marriage with the rich daughter of the financier ,crozat4 ,the new-made countess's mother-in-law apparently never had much respect for her son's choice as she forever referred to her as the little gold ingot4 ,the ingot served to construct the palace1 however1 though at the death of its builder1 soon after1 it came into the proprietorship of ,la ,pompadour1 who spent the sum of six hundred and fifty thousand livres in aggrandizing it4 ,it became her town house1 whither she removed when she grew tired of ,versailles or ,bagatelle4 ,history tells of an incident in connection with a fete given at the ,palais de l',elysee by ,la ,pompadour4 ,it was at the epoch of the bergeries a la ,watteau4 ,the blond ,pompadour had the idea of introducing into the salons a troop of living1 sad-eyed sheep1 combed and curled like the poodles in the carriages of the fashionables in the ,bois to-day4 ,the quadrupeds1 greatly frightened by the flood of light1 fell into a panic1 and the largest ram among them1 seeing his duplicate in a mirror1 made for it in the traditional ram-like manner4 ,he raged for an hour or more from one apartment to another1 followed by the whole flock1 which committed incalculable damage before it could be turned into the gardens4 ,such was one of the costly caprices of ,la ,pompadour4 ,she had many4 ,la ,pompadour's brother1 the ,marquis de ,menars et de ,marigny1 continued the work of embellishment of the property up to the day when ,louis ,,xv bought it as a dwelling for the ambassadors to his court4 ,its somewhat restricted park1 ornamented with a grotto and a cascade1 was at this time one of the curiosities of the capital4 ,in #aggc1 the financier ,beaujon bought the property from the king and added considerably to it under the direction of the architect ,boullee1 who also re-designed the gardens4 ,thanks to ,beaujon1 the wonderful ,gobelins of to-day were hung upon the walls1 and many paintings by ,rubens1 ,poissin1 ,van ,loo1 ,von ,ostade1 ,murillo1 ,paul ,potter and ,joseph ,vernet were added4 ,the death of the financier brought the property into the hands of the ,duchesse de ,bourbon1 the sister of ,louis ,philippe1 and the mother of the ,duc d' ,enghien1 who died so tragically at ,vincennes a short time after4 ,the duchess renamed her new possession ,elysee-,bourbon and there led a very retired and sad life among surroundings so splendid that they merited a more gay existence4 ,at the ,revolution the palace became a national property1 and1 under the ,consulate1 was the scene of many popular fetes1 it having been rented to a concern which arranged balls and other entertainments for the pleasure of all who could afford to pay4 ,its name was now the ,hameau de ,chantilly1 and1 considering that the entrance tickets cost but fifteen sous--including a drink--it must have proved a cheap1 satisfying and splendid amusement for the people4 ,this state of affairs lasted until #ahje1 when ,murat bought it and here held his little court up to his departure for ,naples1 when1 in gratefulness for past favours1 he gave it to ,napoleon4 ,the emperor greatly loved this new abode1 which he rechristened the ,elysee-,napoleon4 ,after his defeat at ,waterloo ,napoleon1 limping lamely ,parisward1 down through the ,forests of ,compiegne and ,villers-,cotterets1 sought in the ,elysee-,napoleon the repose and rest which he so much needed1 the throng meanwhile promenading before the palace windows1 shouting at the tops of their voices ,vive l',empereur6 though1 as the world well knew1 his power had waned forever2 the eagle's wings were broken4 ,the throng still crowded the precincts of the palace1 but the emperor fled secretly by the garden gate4 ,on the return of the ,duchesse de ,bourbon from ,spain the magnificent structure became again the ,elysee-,bourbon4 ,the duchess ceded the palace to the ,duc and ,duchesse de ,berry but1 at the duke's death1 in #ahbj1 his widow abandoned it4 ,some time after it was occupied by the ,duc de ,bordeaux1 and1 in #ahcj1 it became one of the long list of establishments whose maintenance devolved upon the ,civil ,list1 though it remained practically uninhabited all through the reign of ,louis ,philippe4 ,in #ahdh1 the ,national ,assembly designated the palace as the official residence for the presidents of the ,french ,republic4 ,three years after1 on the night of the first of ,december1 as the last preparations were being made by ,louis ,bonaparte for the ,coup d' ,etat and the final strangling of the young republic1 the residence of the president was transferred to the ,tuileries1 and the palace of the ,faubourg ,saint ,honore was again left without a tenant1 and served only to give hospitality from time to time to passing notables4 ,after the burning of the ,tuileries1 and the coming of the ,third ,republic1 the ,elysee ,palace again became the presidential residence1 and so it remains to-day4 ,one of the most notable of modern events connected with the ,elysee ,palace was the diner de ceremonie offered by the president of the ,republic and ,madame ,fallieres to ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,roosevelt in ,april1 #aiaj4 ,the dinner was served in the ,grand ,salle des ,fetes and the music which accompanied the repast was furnished by the band of the ,garde ,republicain1 beginning with the national anthem of ,america and finishing with that of ,france4 ,never had a private citizen1 a foreigner1 been so received by the first magistrate of ,france4 ,the toast of ,president ,fallieres was as follows3 ,before this repast terminates ,i wish to profit by the occasion offered to drink the health of ,monsieur ,theodore ,roosevelt1 an illustrious man1 a great citizen and a good friend of ,france and the cause of peace4 ,i raise my glass to ,madame ,roosevelt who may be assured of our respectful and sympathetic homage1 and ,i am very glad to be able to say to our guests that we count ourselves very fortunate in being allowed to meet them in person and show them this mark of respect4 ,,chapter ,x ,,vincennes ,,and ,,conflans ,illustration3 ,,vincennes ,,under ,,charles ,v ,vincennes is to-day little more than a dull1 dirty ,paris suburb2 if anything its complexion is a deeper drab than that of ,saint ,denis1 and to call the ,bois de ,vincennes a park somewhat resembling the ,bois de ,boulogne1 as do the guidebooks1 is ridiculous4 ,in reality ,vincennes is nothing at all except a memory4 ,there is to-day little suggestion of royal origin about the smug and murky surroundings of the ,chateau de ,vincennes2 but nevertheless1 it once was a royal residence1 and the drama which unrolled itself within its walls was most vividly presented4 ,a book might be written upon it1 with the following as the chapter headings3 ,the ,royal ,residence1 ,the ,minimes of the ,bois de ,vincennes1 ,mazarin at ,vincennes1 ,the ,prisoners of the ,donjon1 ,the ,fetes of the ,revolution1 ,the ,death of the ,duc d',enghien1 ,the ,transformation of the ,chateau and the ,bois4 ,its plots are ready-made1 but one has to take them on hearsay1 for the old chateau does not open its doors readily to the stranger for the reason that it to-day ranks only as a military fortress1 and an artillery camp is laid out in the quadrangle1 intended1 if need be1 to aid in the defence of ,paris4 ,this is one of the things one hears about1 but of which one may not have any personal knowledge4 ,the first reference to the name of ,vincennes is in a ninth century charter1 where it appears as ,vilcenna4 ,the foundation of the original chateau-fort on the present site is attributed to ,louis ,,vii1 who1 in #aafd1 having alienated a part of the neighbouring forest in favour of a body of monks1 built himself a suburban rest-house under shelter of the pious walls of their convent4 ,philippe ,auguste1 too1 has been credited with being the founder of ,vincennes2 but1 at all events1 the chateau took on no royal importance until the reign of ,saint ,louis1 who acquired the habit of dispensing justice to all comers seated beneath an oak in the near-by ,forest of ,joinville4 ,the erection of the later chateau was begun by ,charles1 ,comte de ,valois1 brother of ,philippe-le-,bel2 and it was completed by ,philippe ,,vi of ,valois1 and his successor1 ,jean-le-,bon1 between the years #accg and #acgj1 when it became an entirely new manner of edifice from what it had been before4 ,it was in this chateau that was born ,charles ,v1 to whom indeed it owes its completion in the form best known4 ,to-day1 the outlines of the mass of the ,chateau de ,vincennes are considerably abbreviated from their former state4 ,originally it was quite regular in outline1 its walls forming a rectangle flanked by nine towers1 the great donjon which one sees to-day occupying the centre of one side4 ,the chapel was begun in the reign of ,francois ,i and terminated in that of ,henri ,,ii4 ,its coloured glass1 painted by ,jean ,cousin from the designs of ,raphael1 is notable4 ,the chapel at ,vincennes1 with the ,saint ,chapelle of the ,palais de ,justice at ,paris1 ranks as one of the most exquisite examples extant of ,french ,gothic architecture4 ,it was begun in #acgi1 but chiefly it is of the sixteenth century1 since it was only completed in #aeeb4 ,this chapel of the sixteenth century1 and the two side wings flanking the tower of the reign of ,louis ,,xiv1 make the ,chateau de ,vincennes a most precious specimen of mediaeval ecclesiastical and military architecture4 ,if ,napoleon had not cut down the height of the surrounding walls the comparison would be still more favourable4 ,in the reproduction of the miniature from the ,book of ,hours of the ,duc de ,berry given herein one sees the perfect outlines of the fourteenth century edifice4 ,in later years1 ,louis ,,xiii added considerably to the existing structure1 but little is now to be seen of that edifice save the great tower and the chapel4 ,charles ,,ix1 whose royal edict brought forth the bloody night of ,saint ,bartholomew in #aegb1 fell sick two years later in the ,chateau de ,vincennes4 ,calling his surgeon1 ,ambroise ,pare1 to his side he exclaimed3 ,my body burns with fever2 ,i see the mangled ,huguenots all about me2 ,holy ,virgin1 how they mock me2 ,i wish1 ,pare1 ,i had spared them4 ,and thus he died1 abhorring the mother who had counselled him to commit this horrible deed4 ,the donjon of ,vincennes was carried to its comparatively great height that it might serve as a tower of observation as well as a place of last retreat if in an attack the outer walls of the fortress should give way4 ,here at ,vincennes a certain massiveness is noted in connection with the donjon1 though the actual ground area which it covers is not very great2 it was not like many donjons of the time1 which were virtually smaller chateaux or fortresses enclosed within a greater4 ,vincennes1 in comparison with many other contemporary edifices1 possessed a certain regularity of outline which was made possible by its favourable situation4 ,when others were of fantastic form1 they were usually so built because of the configuration of the land1 or the nature of the soil4 ,but here the land was flat1 and1 though the edifice and its dependencies covered no very extended area1 they followed rectangular lines with absolute precision4 ,as its walls were of a thickness of three metres1 it was a work easy of accomplishment for ,louis ,,xi to turn the chateau into a ,prison of ,state1 a use to which the first chateau had actually been put by the shutting up in it of ,enguerrand de ,marigny4 ,henri ,,iv1 in #aegd1 passed some solitary hours and days within its walls1 and ,mirabeau did the same in #aggg4 ,the ,duc d',enghien1 under the ,first ,empire1 before his actual death by shooting1 suffered sorely herein1 while resting under an unjust suspicion4 ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,vincennes ,in #ahad-ahae the chateau became a great arsenal and general storehouse for the army4 ,it was attacked by the ,allies and besieged twice1 but in vain4 ,it was defended against the armies of ,blucher by the ,baron ,daumesnil4 ,summoned to surrender his charge1 ,jambe de ,bois 7so called because he had lost a leg the year before7 replied3 ,i will surrender when you surrender to me my leg4 ,a statue to this brave warrior is within the chateau1 and commemorates further the fact that he capitulated only on terms laid down by himself out of his humane regard for the lives of friends and foes4 ,the ministers of ,charles ,x1 in #ahcj1 had cause to regret the strength of the chateau walls2 and ,barbes1 ,blanqui and ,raspail1 in #ahdh1 and various ,republicans1 who had been seized as dangerous elements of society after the ,coup d',etat of #ahea1 also here found an enforced hospitality4 ,the ,chateau de ,vincennes had become a second ,bastille4 ,the incident of the arrest and death of the ,duc d',enghien is one of the most dramatic in ,napoleonic history4 ,the scene was ,vincennes4 ,louis ,antoine ,henri de ,bourbon1 son of the ,prince de ,conde1 born at ,chantilly in #aggb1 became1 without just reason1 suspected in connection with the ,cadoudal-,pichegreu plot1 and was seized by a squadron of cavalry at the ,schloss ,ettenheim in the ,duchy of ,baden and conducted to ,vincennes4 ,here1 after a summary judgment1 he was shot at night in the moat behind the guardhouse4 ,the obscurity of the night was so great that a lighted lantern was hung around the neck of the unfortunate man that the soldiers might the better see the mark at which they were to shoot4 ,napoleon confided to ,josephine1 who repeated the secret to ,madame de ,remusat1 that his political future demanded a coup d',etat4 ,on the morning of the execution1 the emperor1 awakening at five o'clock1 said to ,josephine3 ,by this time the ,duc d',enghien has passed from this life4 ,the rest is history--of that apologetic kind which is not often recorded4 ,in the chapel at ,vincennes a commemorative tablet was placed1 by the orders of ,louis ,,xviii1 in #ahaf1 to mark the death of the young duke4 ,the ,bois de ,vincennes is not the fashionable parade ground of the ,bois de ,boulogne4 ,on the whole it is a sad sort of a public park1 and not at all fashionable1 and not particularly attractive1 though of a vast extent and possessed of a profoundly historic past of far more significance than that of its sweet sister by the opposite gates of ,paris4 ,illustration3 ,a ,hunt under the ,walls of ,vincennes ,from a ,fourteenth ,century ,print ,it contains ten hundred and sixty-nine hectares and was due originally to ,louis ,,xv1 who sought to have a sylvan gateway to the city from the east4 ,under the ,second ,empire the park was considerably transformed1 new roads and alleys traced1 and an effort made to have it equal more nearly the beauty of the more popular ,bois de ,boulogne4 ,it occupies the plateau lying between the ,seine and the bend in the ,marne1 just above the junction of the two rivers4 ,there are some forty kilometres of roadway within the limits of the ,bois de ,vincennes1 and a dozen kilometres or more of footpaths2 but1 since the military authorities have taken a portion for their own uses as a training ground1 a shooting range and for the ,batteries of ,la ,faisanderie and ,gravelle1 it has been bereft of no small part of its former charm4 ,there are three lakes in the ,bois1 the ,lac de ,sainte ,mande1 the ,lac ,daumesnil and the ,lac de ,gravelle4 ,a near neighbour of ,vincennes is ,conflans1 another poor1 rent relic of monarchial majesty4 ,the ,chateau de ,conflans was situated at the juncture of the ,seine and ,marne1 but1 to-day1 the immediate neighbourhood is so very unlovely and depressing that one can hardly believe that it ever pleased any one's fancy1 least of all that of a kingly castle builder4 ,banal dwellings on all sides are ,conflans' chief characteristics to-day2 but the old royal abode still lifts a long length of roof and wall to mark the spot where once stood the ,chateau de ,conflans in all its glory4 ,conflans was at first the country residence of the ,archbishops of ,paris1 and ,saint ,louis frequently went into retreat here4 ,when ,philippe-le-,bel acquired the property1 he promptly gave it to the ,comtesse d',artois who made of it one of the plus beaux castels du temps4 ,she decorated its long gallery1 the portion of the edifice which exists to-day in the humble1 emasculated form of a warehouse of some sort1 in memory of her husband ,othon4 ,here the countess held many historic receptions and ceremonies during which kings and princes frequently partook of her hospitality4 ,illustration3 ,,conflans from an ,,old ,,print4 ,after the death of the countess1 the ,french king made his residence at ,conflans1 and ,charles ,,vi1 when dauphin1 was also lodged here that he might be near the capital in case of events which might require his presence4 ,a contemporary account mentions the fact that his valet de chambre was killed by lightning at ,conflans while serving his royal master4 ,conflans was the preferred suburban residence of the ,princes and the ,ducs de ,bourgogne1 and ,philippe-le-,hardi there organized his tourneys and his passes d'armes with great eclat1 on one occasion alone offering one hundred and fifteen thousand livres in prizes to the participants4 ,this castle1 for it was more castle than palace1 was reputed one of the most magnificent in the neighbourhood of the ,paris of its time1 surrounded as it was with a resplendent garden and a forest in miniature1 really a part of the ,bois de ,vincennes of to-day1 where roamed wild boar and wolves which furnished sport of a kingly kind4 ,the view from the terrace of the chateau must have been wonderfully fine1 the towers and roof-tops of old ,paris being silhouetted against the setting sun1 its windows dominating the swift-flowing current of the two rivers at the foot of the fortress walls4 ,the greatest event of history enacted under the walls of ,conflans was the battle and the treaty which followed after1 between ,louis ,,xi and the ,comte de ,charolais1 in #adje4 ,commynes recounts the battle as follows3 ,four thousand archers were sent out from ,paris by the king1 who fired upon the castle from the river bank on both sides4 ,bows and arrows were hardly effective weapons with which to shoot down castle walls1 but stragglers who left themselves unprotected were from time to time picked off on both sides and much carnage actually ensued4 ,finally a treaty of peace was arranged1 by which1 at the death of ,charles-le-,temeraire1 according to usage1 ,louis ,,xi absorbed the proprietary rights in the castle and made it a ,maison ,royale1 bestowing it upon one of his favourites1 ,dame ,gillette ,hennequin4 ,the kings of ,france about this time developed a predilection for the chateaux on the banks of the ,loire1 and ,conflans was offered for sale in #aeed4 ,divers personages occupied it from that time on1 the ,marechal de ,villeroy1 the ,connetable de ,montmorency and1 for a brief time1 ,cardinal ,richelieu4 ,it was in the ,chateau de ,conflans that was planned the foundation of the ,french ,academy2 here ,moliere and his players first presented ,la ,critique de l',ecole des ,femmes2 and here1 also1 was held the marriage of ,la ,grande ,mademoiselle with the unhappy ,lauzan4 ,at the end of the reign of ,louis ,,xiv ,fr4 de ,harlay-,chauvallon1 ,archbishop of ,paris1 bought the property of ,richelieu1 and1 with the aid of ,mansart and ,le ,notre1 considerably embellished it within and without4 ,madame de ,sevigne1 in one of her many published letters1 writes of the splendours which she saw at ,conflans at this epoch4 ,saint-,simon1 the court chronicler1 mentions that the gardens were so immaculately kept that when the ,archbishop and ,la ,belle ,duchesse de ,lesdiguieres used to promenade therein they were followed by a gardener who1 with a rake1 sought to remove the traces of each footprint as soon as made4 ,later1 the ,cardinal de ,beaumont1 the persecutor of the ,jansenists1 resided here4 ,notre archeveque est a ,conflans ,c'est un grand solitaire ,c'est un grand so ,c'est un grand so ,c'est un grand solitaire4 ,the above verse is certainly banal enough1 but the cardinal himself was a drole1 so perhaps it is appropriate4 ,at any rate it is contemporary with the churchman's sojourn at ,conflans4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,fontainebleau ,,and ,,its ,,forest ,illustration3 ,,original ,,plan ,,of ,,fontainebleau ,of all the ,french royal palaces ,fontainebleau is certainly the most interesting1 despite the popularity and accessibility of ,versailles4 ,it is moreover the cradle of the ,french ,renaissance4 ,napoleon called it the ,maison des ,siecles1 and the simile was just4 ,after ,versailles1 ,fontainebleau has ever held the first place among the suburban royal palaces4 ,the celebrated ,route de ,fontainebleau of history was as much a ,chemin du ,roi as that which led from the capital to ,versailles4 ,versailles was gorgeous1 even splendid1 if you will2 but it had not the unique characteristics1 nor winsomeness of ,fontainebleau1 nor ever will have1 in the minds of those who know and love the ,france of monarchial days4 ,illustration3 ,from ,paris to ,fontainebleau ,not the least of the charm of ,fontainebleau is the neighbouring forest so close at hand1 a few garden railings1 not more1 separating the palace from one of the wildest forest tracts of modern ,france4 ,the ,forest of ,fontainebleau is full of memories of royal rendezvous1 the carnage of wild beasts1 the vraie image de la guerre1 of which the ,renaissance kings were so inordinately fond4 ,it was from the ,palace of ,fontainebleau1 too1 that bloomed forth the best and most wholesome of the ,french ,renaissance architecture4 ,it was the model of all other later residences of its kind4 ,it took the best that ,italy had to offer and developed something so very ,french that even the ,italian workmen1 under the orders of ,francois ,i1 all but lost their nationality4 ,vasari said of it that it rivalled the best work to be found in the ,rome of its time4 ,a charter of ,louis-le-,jeune 7,louis ,,vii71 dated at ,fontainebleau in #aafi1 attests that the spot was already occupied by a maison royale which1 according to the ,latin name given in the document was called ,fontene ,bleaudi1 an etymology not difficult to trace when what we know of its earlier and later history is considered4 ,actually this fontaine belle eau is found to-day in the centre of the ,jardin ,anglais1 its basin and outlet being surrounded by the conventional stone rim or border4 ,after its discovery1 according to legend1 this fountain became the rendezvous of the gallants and the poets and painters and the sweet ladies so often referred to in the chronicles of the ,renaissance4 ,rosso1 the painter1 perpetuated one of the most celebrated of these reunions in his decorations in the ,galerie ,francois ,i in the palace1 and ,cellini represented the fair huntress ,diana1 amid the same surroundings4 ,under ,louis-le-,jeune in #aafi was erected1 in the ,cour du ,donjon1 the chapel ,saint-,saturnin1 which was consecrated by ,saint ,thomas a ,becket1 then a refugee in ,france4 ,philippe ,auguste and ,saint ,louis inhabited the palace and ,philippe-le-,bel died here in #acad4 ,from a letter of ,charles ,,vii it appears that ,isabeau de ,baviere had the intention of greatly adding to the existing chateau because of the extreme healthfulness of the neighbourhood4 ,the work was actually begun but seemingly not carried to any great length4 ,such was the state of things when ,francois ,i came into his own and1 because of the supreme beauty of the site1 became enamoured of it and began to erect an edifice which was to outrank all others of its class4 ,the king and court made of ,fontainebleau a second capital4 ,it was a model residence of its kind1 and gave the first great impetus to the ,renaissance wave which rose so rapidly that it speedily engulfed all ,france4 ,aside from its palace and its forest1 ,fontainebleau early became a noble and a gracious town1 thanks to the proximity of the royal dwelling4 ,in spite of the mighty scenes enacted within its walls1 the palace has ever posed as one of the most placid and tranquil places of royal residence in the kingdom4 ,all this is true to-day1 in spite of the coming of tourists in automobiles1 and the recent establishment of a golf club with the usual appurtenances4 ,fontainebleau1 the town1 has a complexion quite its own4 ,its garrison and its little court of officialdom give it a character which even to-day marks it as one of the principal places where the stranger may observe the ,french dragoon1 with casque and breastplate and boots and spurs1 at quite his romantic best1 though it is apparent to all that the cumbersome1 if picturesque1 uniform is an unwieldy fighting costume4 ,there was talk long ago of suppressing the corps1 but all ,fontainebleau rose up in protest4 ,as the popular chanson has it3 ,laissez les dragons a leur ,maire4 ,this has become the battle cry and so they remain at ,fontainebleau to-day1 the envy of their fellows in the service1 and the glory of the young misses of the boarding schools1 who each ,saturday are brought out in droves to see the sights4 ,many descriptions of ,fontainebleau have been written1 but the works of ,poirson1 ,pfnor and ,champollion-,figeac are generally followed by most makers of guidebooks1 and1 though useful1 they have perpetuated many errors which were known to have been doubtful even before their day4 ,the best account of ,fontainebleau under ,francois ,i is given in the manuscript memoir of ,abbe ,guilbert4 ,apparently an error crept into this admirable work1 too1 for it gives the date of the commencement of the constructions of ,francois as #aead1 whereas that monarch only ascended the throne in #aeae4 ,the date of the first works under this monarch was #aebh1 according to a letter of the king himself1 which began3 ,we1 the court1 intend to live in this palace and hunt the 'betes rousses et noirs qui sont dans la foret4' ,an account of ,francois ,i and his young ,italian friends makes mention of the visit of the king1 in company with the ,duchesse d',etampes1 to the studio of ,serlio who was working desperately on the portico of the ,cour ,ovale4 ,he found the artist producing a melody of plastic beauty1 garbed as a simple workman1 his hair matted with pasty clay4 ,he was standing on a scaffolding high above the ground when the monarch mounted the ladder4 ,up aloft ,francois held a conference with his beloved workman and1 descending1 shouted back the words3 ,you understand1 ,maitre ,serlio2 let it be as you suggest4 ,after the porticos1 ,serlio decorated the ,galerie d',ulysse which has since disappeared owing to the indifference of ,louis ,,xv and the imbecility of his friends2 and always it was with ,francois3 ,you understand1 ,maitre ,serlio2 it is as you wish4 ,the motif may have been ,italian1 but the impetus for the work was given by the esprit of the ,french4 ,the defeated monarch was not able to bring away from ,padua any trophies of war2 but he brought plans of chateaux1 and gardens as well4 ,he did more3 he took the very artists and craftsmen who had produced many of the ,italian masterpieces of the time4 ,the tracing of the gardens at ,fontainebleau1 practically as they exist to-day1 was one of ,francois ,i's greatest pleasures4 ,in their midst1 on the shores of the ,etang aux ,carpes1 was erected a tiny rest-house where the royal mistresses might come to repose and laugh at the jests of ,triboulet4 ,the edifice of ,francois ,i is of modest proportions and of perfect unity2 but it is with difficulty that it presents its best appearance1 overpowered as it is by the heavier masses of the time of ,henri ,,iv1 and suffering as it does because of the eliminations of ,louis ,,xiv and ,louis ,,xv when they made their additions to the palace4 ,under the ,convention1 later on1 ,fontainebleau's palace again suffered4 ,under the ,consulate it became a barracks and a prison1 and finally1 not less terrible1 were the restorations of ,napoleon and ,louis ,philippe4 ,a castle may sometimes suffer less from a siege than from a restoration4 ,from every point of view1 however1 ,fontainebleau remains an architectural document of the most profound interest and value1 and1 from the tourists' point of view1 it is the most appealing of all ,european palaces of this or any other age4 ,the expert1 the artist and the mere curiosity-seeker all unite in their admiration in spite of the fact that the fabric has been denuded of many of its original beauties4 ,illustration3 ,palais de ,fontainebleau ,first1 this royal dwelling is of the most ample and effective proportions2 second1 it possesses a remarkable series of luxurious apartments2 third1 it still contains some of the finest examples of furniture and furnishings of ,renaissance and ,napoleonic times2 and1 in addition1 there is also to be seen that admirable series of paintings which represent the ,school of ,fontainebleau4 ,with such an array of charms what does it matter if the unity of the ,renaissance masterpiece of ,francois ,i is qualified by later interpolations8 ,general impression is the standard by which one judges the workmanship of a noble monument1 and here it is good to an extraordinary degree4 ,the palace of to-day sits at one end of the aristocratic little town of ,fontainebleau4 ,beyond is the forest and opposite are many hotels which depend upon the palace as the source from which they draw their livelihood4 ,the principal entrance to the palace opens out from the ,place ,solferino and gives access immediately to the ,cour du ,cheval ,blanc of ,chambiges1 which1 since that eventful day in ,napoleonic history nearly a hundred years ago1 has become better known as the ,cour des ,adieux4 ,at the rear rises the famous horseshoe stair1 certainly much better expressed in ,french as the ,escalier en ,fer a ,cheval1 from which the emperor took his farewell of his ,vieux ,grognards lined up before him1 biting savagely at their moustaches to keep down their emotions4 ,this ,cour du ,cheval ,blanc acquired its name from a plaster cast of ,marcus ,aurelius's celebrated steed which was originally placed here under a canopy or baldaquin held aloft by colonnettes4 ,the moulds for this work were brought from ,venice by ,primaticcio and ,vignole1 but it was never cast in bronze and the statue itself disappeared in #afbf4 ,the courtyard1 however1 still kept the name until the last of ,napoleonic days4 ,as a ,napoleonic memory this ,cour des ,adieux shares popularity with the famous ,cabinet of the ,empire suite of apartments where ,napoleon signed his abdication4 ,certainly most visitors will carry away the memory of these words as among the most vivid souvenirs of ,fontainebleau4 ,le #e ,avril1 #ahad1 ,napoleon ,bonaparte signa son abdication sur cette table dans le cabinet de travail du ,roi1 le deuxieme apres la chambre a coucher a ,fontainebleau4 ,the abdication itself 7the document7 is now exposed in the ,galerie de ,diane1 transformed lately into the ,library4 ,on the right is the ,aile ,neuf1 built by ,louis ,,xv1 for the housing of his officers1 on the site of the ,galerie de ,ulysse1 originally one of the most notable features of the palace of ,francois ,i4 ,opposite is the sober alignment of the ,aile des ,ministres1 and still farther to the rear are the ,pavillon des ,aumoniers1 or de l',horloge2 the ,chapelle de la ,trinite2 the ,pavillon des ,armes2 the ,pavillon des ,peintres2 the ,pavillon des ,poels2 the ,galerie des ,fresques2 and1 finally1 the ,pavillon des ,reines-,meres4 ,all of these details are of the period of ,francois ,i save the last1 which was an interpolation of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the ,fer a ,cheval stairway1 however1 most curious because of the difficulties of its construction1 dates from the time of ,louis ,,xiii1 and replaces the stairs built by ,philibert ,delorme4 ,the tennis court1 just before the ,pavillon de l',horloge1 dates only from ,louis ,,xv4 ,the imposing entrance court is a hundred and twelve metres in width by a hundred and fifty-two metres in length1 and to see it as it was originally1 before the destruction of the ,galerie d',ulysse1 one must imagine it as closed in by a series of small pavilions with their frontons of colonnettes preceded only by a staircase and two drawbridges crossing the moat1 which at that time surrounded the entire confines of the palace4 ,the moat is to-day surrounded1 where it still exists1 by a balustrade1 due to the rather shabby taste of ,louis ,,xv4 ,an inner courtyard1 known as the ,cour de la ,fontaine1 is incomparably of finer general design than the entrance court1 and the ,cour ,ovale1 absolutely as ,henri ,,iv left it1 is finer still4 ,at the foot of this latter court is the ,baptistry where were baptised1 in #afjf1 the three ,enfants de ,france1 the dauphin1 afterwards ,louis ,,xiii2 the ,princesse ,elizabeth1 afterwards the ,queen of ,spain2 and the ,princesse de ,savoie4 ,the ,cour ,ovale is practically of the proportions of the ancient ,manor of ,fontaine ,belle ,eau1 built by ,robert le ,pieux4 ,there1 too1 ,philippe ,auguste1 ,saint ,louis1 ,philippe-le-,bel1 ,charles ,v and ,charles ,,vii frequently resided4 ,francois ,i had no wish that this old manor should entirely disappear and preserved its old donjon1 a relic which has since gone the way of many another noble fane4 ,there are several other notable courts or gardens1 the ,cour des ,offices1 the ,jardin de ,diane1 the ,orangerie1 the ,cour des ,princes1 etc4 ,all the original gardens were laid out anew by ,louis ,,xiv1 and that of ,diane underwent a considerable change at the hands of ,napoleon1 who also laid out a ,jardin ,anglais on the site of the ancient ,jardin des ,pins1 where originally sprang into being the rippling ,fontaine ,beleau1 or ,belle ,eau1 which gave its name to the palace1 the forest and the town4 ,illustration3 ,salle du ,throne1 ,fontainebleau ,the park1 as distinct from the great expanse of surrounding forest1 is a finely shaded range of alleys1 due chiefly to ,henri ,,iv1 who cut the great canal of ornamental water and ordained the general arrangement of its details4 ,the principal curiosity of the park is the famous ,treille du ,roy1 or the ,king's ,grape ,vine1 which1 good seasons and bad1 can be counted on to give three thousand kilos of authentic chasselas1 grapes of the finest quality4 ,one wonders who gets them3 ,ou s'en vont les raisins du roi8 ,this is an interrogation that has been raised more than once in the ,french parliament4 ,in general1 the aspect of the exterior of the ,palais de ,fontainebleau1 the walls themselves1 the ,cours1 the alleyed walks are chiefly reminiscent of the early art of the ,renaissance4 ,francois ,i is1 after all1 more in evidence than the ,henris or the ,napoleons4 ,within1 the same is true in general1 though to a less degree4 ,the ,renaissance is maitresse within and without2 the other moods are wholly subservient to her grace4 ,there is hardly an apartment in all the world of palaces in ,france1 or beyond the frontiers1 to rank with the great ,galerie ,francois ,i at ,fontainebleau1 though indeed its proportions are modest and its lighting defective to-day1 for ,louis ,,xv blocked up all the windows on one side4 ,it remains1 however1 one of the richest examples of the ,franco-,italian decoration of its era1 though somewhat tarnished by the heedlessness of ,charles ,x4 ,never were there before1 nor since1 its era such mythological wall-paintings as are here to be seen4 ,the aspirants for the ,prix de ,rome protest each year against such subjects being set them for their concours1 but their judges1 recalling how effective such examples are1 are insistent4 ,the best examples of the ,school of ,fontainebleau are a distinct variety of ,french painting4 ,the veriest dabbler in art can say with ,michelet3 ,there is no reminiscence of anything ,italian therein4 ,frankly1 these works were the product of secondary artists and their pupils4 ,leonardo da ,vinci1 too old to do anything more than direct1 saw himself succeeded by ,del ,sarto1 ,rosso and ,primaticcio4 ,cellini may have contributed1 too1 but his labours were doubtless blotted out to a great extent by the orders of the all-powerful ,duchesse d',etampes who feared his competition with her protege1 ,primaticcio4 ,one of the masters of this coterie was ,nicolo dell' ,abbate1 better known1 perhaps1 for his works painted at ,bologna than for his frescoes at ,fontainebleau4 ,illustration ,the ,galerie ,henri ,,ii is notable also for its decorations1 the harmonious juxtaposition of sculpture and painting1 and1 although restored in late years1 presents an astonishing pristine vigour4 ,this apartment ranks with the ,galerie ,francois ,i1 all things considered1 as one of the chief show apartments of the palace4 ,its length is thirty metres1 its breadth ten1 with five ample round-headed windows letting in a flood of light on either side1 one set giving on the ,cour ,ovale1 and the other on the ,parterre and the magnificent facade of the ,porte ,doree4 ,the ceiling is broken up into octagonal caissons1 their depths alternately laid with gold or silver1 bearing the monogram of the monarch and his devise4 ,the parquet is laid in divisions reproducing the design of the ceiling4 ,on either side the walls are wainscoted in oak similarly emblazoned in gold and silver1 with the initials of ,diane de ,poitiers1 and of her admirer1 ,henri1 everywhere interlaced4 ,again1 a colossal monogram reproduces itself in the chimney-piece with the frescoes of ,nicolo dell' ,abbate1 and fifty figures of mythological gods and heroes decorate the window casings4 ,the chapel dates chiefly from the time of ,henri ,,iv1 the altar and numerous embellishments belonging to later reigns4 ,a certain sentiment1 not a little real beauty1 and much unauthenticated history attach themselves to the ,salon ,louis ,,xiii1 the ,salle du ,trone1 the ,apartment of ,madame de ,maintenon1 those of ,napoleon ,i1 of ,pope ,pius ,,vii and of ,marie ,antoinette4 ,the ,galerie de ,diane is little reminiscent of the day of the huntress1 being a reconstitution under the ,first ,empire1 though its decorations date from the ,restoration1 and the ceiling1 and furniture1 apparently of the best of ,renaissance times1 are merely copies made by ,louis ,philippe1 who did not hesitate1 on another occasion1 to blue-wash the ,salon de ,saint ,louis1 and who hung worthless third-rate paintings1 which even provincial museums of the meanest rank have since refused to house1 in the admirably decorated apartments of the period of ,francois and ,henri4 ,fontainebleau1 to-day1 is but a memory of what it was1 a memory by no means fragmentary1 by no means complete2 but all sufficient4 ,of later years there is actually little to single out in the way of remarkable additions or restorations4 ,under the ,second ,empire the ,galerie ,francois ,i was repainted1 some false antiquities added as furnishings1 and various ranges of books were stored away in the ,galerie de ,diane1 having been brought from the chapel which had ceased to serve as the ,library4 ,this apartment was now refitted as a chapel1 and1 to supplant six wall paintings which had been removed1 ,napoleon ,,iii ordered seven canvases from the painter ,schopin1 illustrating the life of ,saint ,saturnin4 ,illustration ,finally1 the ,salle de ,spectacle completes the modern additions1 and1 while gaudily striking1 is scarcely above the taste of a gilded cafe in some pompous ,prefecture4 ,henri ,,iv was the creator of the park of the palace1 which extended as far as the village of ,avon and absorbed all the ,seigneurie de ,montceau1 of which ,mi-,voie 7the dairy of ,catherine de ,medici7 occupied a part4 ,the acquisition of the ,seigneurie was made in #afji4 ,across it was cut a grand canal in imitation of that already possessed by the ,chateau de ,fleury4 ,it was a great rarity as a garden accessory1 and was more than a quarter of a league long and forty metres wide4 ,bassompierre said in his memoirs that ,henri ,,iv made him a wager that it could be filled with water in two days4 ,it actually took eight4 ,to the north of the park1 ,henri ,,iv built1 under the name of ,la ,menagerie1 what he called a maison de plaisance1 but which was really the forerunner of the animal house at ,versailles4 ,to all these works of ,henri ,,iv in the gardens at ,fontainebleau is attached the name of ,francine4 ,there were two brothers of the name1 ,thomas and ,alexandre1 and it was the latter who chiefly occupied himself with the ,parterre1 the ,chaussee and the ,grand ,canal at ,fontainebleau4 ,in the ,jardin de la ,reine he erected the celebrated ,fontaine de ,diane which finally gave its name to the garden itself4 ,the fountain was designed by ,barthelemy ,prieur1 and was cast in #afjc4 ,the original bronzes are now in the ,louvre1 those seen at ,fontainebleau to-day being later works 7#afhd74 ,the ,forest of ,fontainebleau is a dozen leagues in circumference1 and of an area of nearly thirty-five thousand acres4 ,its beauty1 its natural beauty1 is unrivalled4 ,rocks1 ravines1 valleys1 patriarchal oaks and beeches1 plains1 woods1 glades1 meadows1 lawns and cliffs1 all are here4 ,its population of stag and deer was practically exterminated during the ,revolution of #ahcj1 but nevertheless it sustained its reputation as a great hunting-ground for long afterwards4 ,the ,royal ,hunt invariably centered at ,la ,croix du ,grand ,veneur1 a notable landmark of the forest even now1 at the intersection of four magnificent forest roads4 ,its name comes from a legend of a spectral black huntsman who was supposed to haunt the forest1 and who appeared for the last time1 in reality or imagination1 to ,henri ,,iv shortly before his assassination4 ,in #ahed1 one of the last and most gorgeous of ,fontainebleau hunts was given by ,louis ,napoleon4 ,the emperor spent lavishly for the equipment of the hunt1 and granted liberal stipends to the attendants that they might caparison themselves with some semblance of picturesque dignity2 horses and dogs were furnished and cared for on the same liberal scale4 ,the costuming of a hunting party under such conditions was not the least appealing of its picturesque elements4 ,three-cornered hats1 gold lace1 knee breeches1 silk stockings and other costly properties1 when provided for a single special occasion1 as they were in this case1 were apt to suggest the life of centuries long gone by rather than that of modern times4 ,the ,forest of ,fontainebleau can best be briefly described as a rendezvous for tourists and trippers1 and as a vast open-air studio for the youthful emulators of the men of ,barbison4 ,historic1 romantic and artistic memories and realities are on every hand2 the march of time and progress has not dimmed them1 nor thinned them out2 the ,forest of ,fontainebleau remains to-day the best known and most delightful extent of wildwood in all the world4 ,the chief of the well-known names associated with the ,forest of ,fontainebleau1 and one which will never die1 is that of ,denecourt1 called also the ,sylvain de la ,foret1 a mythological appellation which came from his abounding knowledge of its devious ways and byways4 ,it was in #ahda that ,denecourt began his original studies and catalogued its every stone and tree4 ,he invented names and gave a historical setting to many a picturesque and romantic site which might not have been known at all had it not been for his enthusiasm4 ,after the vogue of ,denecourt all the world followed in his footsteps until the ,parisian knew as well the ,longue ,rocher1 the ,gorges d',apremont and the ,gorge de ,franchard as he did the ,rue de la ,paix or the ,champs ,elysees4 ,denecourt's great work1 ,promenades dans la ,foret de ,fontainebleau appeared in #ahde1 and if he is to be criticised for letting his fancy run away with him now and then1 and for the opera bouffe nomenclature of many of the caves and mares and chenes and fairy-bowers and tables of kings1 he at least has enabled a curious public to become better acquainted with this great forest4 ,the flora of the ,forest of ,fontainebleau is remarkably varied2 ,denecourt gives seventy varieties of plants and flowers which grow and propagate here naturally1 to which are to be added a great number of nondescript vines1 lichens and vegetable mosses4 ,of the trees the list extends from the imposing and sometimes gigantic oaks1 elms1 beeches1 and willows to shrubs and heather growth of the most humble species4 ,a score or more of the most commonly known feathered tribes people the forest to-day with almost the same freedom of life and abundance as in monarchial times4 ,the songsters are all there1 from the robin to the nightingale2 as well as the partridge and the celebrated indigenous grouse4 ,previous to #ahcj the forest was well supplied with big game1 deer and wild boar without number2 but1 in later times1 as was but natural1 these have been greatly thinned out4 ,rabbits and hares1 to say nothing of foxes and the like1 were formerly so abundant that1 under ,louis ,philippe1 it was necessary to carry out what was practically a war of extermination4 ,to-day they exist1 of course1 but in no great numbers4 ,another sort of publicity has been given the ,forest of ,fontainebleau by its association with the painters of the thirties4 ,theodore ,rousseau1 in #ahcf1 lived at ,barbison1 which at that time was but a hamlet of a few houses1 with no encumbering hotels1 garages and merry-go-rounds as to-day4 ,a certain ,pere ,ganne kept a sort of a lodging house where artists were made welcome at an exceedingly modest price4 ,not only the really famous and much exploited painters of the time gained fortunes here1 but those of a more conservative school1 who never rose to really great distinction1 also drew much of their inspiration from the neighbourhood1 among them ,hamon1 ,boulanger and ,celestin ,nanteuil4 ,without having to go far to hunt up their subjects1 the ,forest of ,fontainebleau lying near ,barbison offered to painters much that was not available within so small a radius elsewhere4 ,diaz was here already when1 in #ahdi1 ,jacque and ,millet arrived upon the scene1 and at more or less frequent intervals1 and for more or less lengthy stays1 there came ,corot1 ,dupre and ,daubigny4 ,just what the ,barbison school produced in the way of painting all the world knows to-day1 but these men were originally the target of every prejudiced critic of the ,boulevards and the ,faubourgs4 ,the present day has brought its reward and appreciation1 though it is the dealers who have profited--the men are dead4 ,illustration3 ,monument to ,rousseau and ,millet at ,barbison ,in memory of the fame brought to this little corner of the forest in general1 and to ,barbison in particular1 there was placed 7in #ahid71 at the entrance to the village1 a bronze medallion showing the heads of ,millet and ,rousseau4 ,it was a delicate way of showing appreciation for the talents of those two great men who actually founded a new school of painting4 ,at the other end of the forest is the little village of ,marlotte1 also a haven for many painters of a former day1 and no less so for those of to-day4 ,the old forest in three quarters of a century has seen itself reproduced on canvas in all its moods4 ,no painter ever lived1 nor could all the painters that ever lived1 exhaust its infinite variety4 ,hebert in his ,dictionnaire de la ,foret de ,fontainebleau says1 rightly enough1 that1 with the coming of the men of ,fontainebleau and its artist-villages the classic type of ,paysage d',italie has disappeared from the ,salon ,catalogues4 ,art amateurs and the common people alike made the reputation of ,fontainebleau2 the mere trippers were brought thither by ,denecourt1 but the real forest lovers were those who were attracted by the masterpieces of the painters4 ,the town of ,fontainebleau has changed somewhat under this double influence4 ,at ,fontainebleau itself are two monuments in memory of painters who have passed away4 ,one of these is to the memory of ,decamps1 who was killed by a fall from his horse while riding in the forest2 it is a simple bust1 the work of ,carrier-,belleuse4 ,the other is of ,rosa ,bonheur who died at ,thomery1 a little village on the southern border of the forest1 in #aijb2 it is an almost life-size bull from a small model by the artist herself and surmounts a pedestal which also bears a medallion of the artist4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,by ,,the ,,banks ,,of ,,the ,,seine ,on the highroad to ,saint ,germain one passes innumerable historic monuments which suggest the generous part that many minor chateaux played in the court life of the capital of old4 ,to-day1 ,maisons1 ,la ,muette and ,bagatelle are mere names which serve the tram lines for roof signs and scarcely one in a thousand strangers gives them a thought4 ,the famous ,bois de ,boulogne and its immediate environment have for centuries formed a delicious verdant framing for a species of ,french country-house which could not have existed within the fortifications4 ,these luxurious1 bijou dwellings1 some of them1 at least1 the caprices of kings1 others the property of the new nobility1 and still others of mere plebeian kings of finance1 are in a class quite by themselves4 ,perhaps the most famous of these is the celebrated ,bagatelle1 within the confines of the ,bois itself4 ,the ,chateau de ,bagatelle was built in a month1 thus meriting its name1 by the ,comte d',artois1 the future ,charles ,x1 as a result of a wager with ,marie ,antoinette4 ,on its facade it originally bore the inscription3 ,parva sed apta--small but convenient4 ,illustration ,bagatelle occupied a corner of the royal domain and1 after its completion1 was sold to the ,marquise de ,monconseil1 in #agdg1 who gave to this princely suburban residence a dignity worthy of its origin4 ,then came ,la ,pompadour on the scene1 the petite bourgeoise who1 by the nobility acquired by the donning of a court costume and marriage with the ,sieur ,normand d',etioles1 usurped the right to sit beside duchesses and be presented to the queen1 if not as an equal1 at least as the maitresse of her spouse1 the king4 ,there is a legend about a meeting between ,la ,pompadour and the king at ,bagatelle1 a meeting in which she established herself so firmly in the graces of the monarch that on the morrow she formed a part of the entourage at ,versailles4 ,after having come into the possession of the heirs of ,sir ,richard ,wallace1 ,bagatelle finally became the property of the ,state4 ,it is in the ,chateau de ,bagatelle that is to be installed the ,musee de la ,parole--,the ,museum of ,speech4 ,the ,french1 innovators ever1 plan that ,bagatelle shall become a sort of conservatory of the human voice1 and here will be classed methodically the cylinders and disks which have recorded the spoken words of all sorts and conditions of men4 ,in this ,musee de la ,parole will be kept phonographic records of all current dialects in ,france1 the argot of the ,parisian lower classes1 etc41 etc4 ,up to the present the evolution of the speech of man has ever been an enigma4 ,no one knows to-day how ,homer or ,virgil pronounced their words1 and ,racine and ,corneille1 though of a time less remote1 have left no tangible record of their speech4 ,monsieur ,got of the ,comedie ,francaise believes that ,louis ,,xiv pronounced ,moi1 le ,roi as ,moue le ,roue2 and thus he pronounced it in a speech which has been recorded in wax and is to form a part of the collection at ,bagatelle4 ,the ,polo ,grounds of ,bagatelle1 between the chateau and the ,seine as it swirls around the ,ile de la ,folie1 are to-day better known than this dainty little ,paris palace2 but ,bagatelle will some day come to its own again4 ,neuilly bounds the ,bois de ,boulogne on the north1 and has little of a royal appearance to-day1 save its straight1 broad streets4 ,there is a royal incident connected with the ,pont de ,neuilly which should not be forgotten4 ,it came about in connection with the return of ,henri ,,iv from ,saint ,germain in company with the queen and the ,duc de ,vendome4 ,they were in a great coach drawn by four horses which insisted on drinking from the river in spite of the efforts of the coachman to prevent them4 ,the carriage was overturned and the royal party barely escaped being drowned4 ,one of the aids who accompanied them recounted the fact that the impromptu bath had cured the king's toothache which he had acquired over a rather hasty meal just before leaving the palace4 ,had ,i witnessed the adventure1 said the ,marquis de ,verneuil1 ,i should have proposed the toast3 ',le ,roi ,boit6 ,as a result of this incident a new bridge was constructed1 though it was afterwards replaced by the present stone structure over which a ceaseless traffic rushes in and out of ,paris to-day4 ,it was this present bridge over which ,louis ,,xv was the first to pass on ,september #bb1 #aggb4 ,the ,chateau de ,neuilly was a favourite suburban residence of ,louis ,philippe4 ,it was here that a delegation came to offer him the crown1 and1 after he had become king1 he was pleased to still inhabit it and actually spent considerable sums upon its maintenance4 ,when the ,revolution of #ahdh broke out1 the sovereign took refuge at ,neuilly and1 when besieged by the multitude1 took flight in the night of ,february #bf and left his chateau in the hands of a band of ruffians who pillaged it from cellar to garret1 finally setting it on fire4 ,it burned like a pile of brushwood1 and it is said that more than a hundred drunken desperados perished when its walls fell in4 ,this was the tragic end of the ,chateau de ,neuilly4 ,by a decree of the president of the later ,republic the ,orleans princes were obliged to sell all their ,french properties and the park of the ,chateau de ,neuilly was cut up into morsels and lots were sold to all comers4 ,thus was born that delightful ,paris suburb1 with the broad1 shady avenues and comfortable houses1 with which one is familiar to-day4 ,the aristocratic ,parc de ,neuilly1 with ,saint ,james1 is the only tract near ,paris where one finds such lovely gardens and such fresh1 shady avenues4 ,another quarter of ,neuilly possesses a history worthy of being recounted4 ,the district known as ,saint ,james derived its name from a great suburban property which in #agge belonged to ,baudart de ,saint ,james4 ,he created a property almost royal in its appointments1 its gardens having acquired an extraordinary renown4 ,when he became a bankrupt a throng of persons visited the property not so much with a view to purchase as out of curiosity4 ,a writer of the time says of this ,lucullus that he was the envy of all ,paris4 ,he died soon after his ruin1 from chagrin1 and in apparent poverty1 which seemingly established his good faith with his creditors4 ,under the ,first ,empire the domain was bought by1 or for1 the ,princesse ,borghese1 who here gave many brilliant fetes at which the emperor himself frequently assisted4 ,on the occasion of the marriage of ,napoleon to ,marie ,louise a series of fetes took place here which evoked the especially expressed encomiums of the emperor4 ,in #ahae ,wellington made it his headquarters and here had his first conference with ,blucher4 ,upon ,wellington quitting ,saint ,james the property was pillaged by the ,iron ,duke's own troops and actually demolished by the picks and axes of the soldiery4 ,near the ,passy entrance of the ,bois is ,la ,muette1 a relic of a royal hunting-lodge which took its name from the royal pack of hounds 7meute7 which was formerly kept here4 ,the ,chateau de la ,muette was the caprice of ,francois ,i1 who1 when he came to ,paris1 wished to have his pleasures near at hand1 and1 being the chief partisan of the hunt among ,french monarchs1 built ,la ,muette for this purpose4 ,the ,chateau de la ,muette is thus classed as one of the royal dwellings of ,france though hardly ever is it mentioned in the annals of to-day4 ,rebuilt by ,charles ,,ix1 from his father's more modest shooting box1 ,la ,muette became the centre of the court of ,marguerite de ,navarre1 the first wife of ,henri ,,iv2 after which it served as the habitation of the dauphin1 who became ,louis ,,xiii4 ,during the regency1 ,philippe d',orleans took possession of the chateau until the enthronement of ,louis ,,xv4 ,the latter here established a little court within a court1 best described by the ,french as3 ses plaisirs prives4 ,it was this monarch who rebuilt1 or at least restored1 the chateau1 and brought it to the state in which one sees it to-day4 ,in #aghc ,louis ,,xvi1 ,marie ,antoinette and the court took up a brief residence here to assist at the aerostatic experiences of ,de ,rosier1 and in #aghg1 ceasing to be a royal residence1 ,la ,muette was offered for sale after first having been stripped of its precious wainscotings1 its marbles and the artistic curiosities of all sorts with which it had been decorated4 ,the chateau itself now became the property of ,sebastian ,erard1 who bought it for the modest price of two hundred and sixty thousand francs4 ,somewhat farther from ,paris1 crossing the peninsula formed by the first of the great bends of the ,seine below the capital1 is ,chatou which has a royal reminder in its ,pavilion ,henri ,,iv1 or ,pavillon ,gabrielle1 which the gallant1 love-making monarch built for ,gabrielle d',estrees4 ,formerly it was surrounded by a vast park and must have been almost ideal1 but to-day it is surrounded by stucco1 doll-house villas1 and unappealing apartments1 until only a ,gothic portal1 jutting from a row of dull house fronts1 suggests the once cosy little retreat of the lovely ,gabrielle4 ,the height of ,louveciennes1 above ,bougival1 closes the neck of the peninsula and from it a vast panorama of the silvery ,seine and its coteaux stretches out from the towers of ,notre ,dame on one hand to the dense forest of ,saint ,germain on the other4 ,the original ,chateau de ,louveciennes was the property of ,madame la ,princesse de ,conti1 but popular interest lies entirely with the ,pavilion du ,barry1 built by the architect ,ledoux under the orders of ,louis ,,xv4 ,du ,barry1 having received the chateau as a gift from the king1 sought to decorate it and reembellish it anew4 ,through the ministrations of a certain ,drouais1 ,fragonard was commissioned to decorate a special pavilion outside the chateau proper1 destined for the collations du ,roi4 ,the subject chosen was the ,progres de l',amour dans le ,coeur des ,jeunes ,filles4 ,just where these panels are to-day no one seems to know1 but sooner or later they will doubtless be discovered4 ,fragonard's famous ,escalade1 or ,rendezvous1 the first of the series of five proposed panels1 depicted the passion of ,louis ,,xv for du ,barry4 ,the shepherdess had the form and features of that none too scrupulous feminine beauty1 and the berger gallant was manifestly a portrait of the king4 ,perhaps these decorations at ,louveciennes were elaborations of these smaller canvases4 ,it seems quite probable4 ,sheltered snugly against the banked-up ,forest of ,saint ,germain1 on the banks of the ,seine1 is ,maisons-,laffitte4 ,maisons is scarcely ever mentioned by ,parisians save as they comment on the sporting columns of the newspapers1 for horse-racing now gives its distinction to the neighbourhood1 and the old ,chateau de ,maisons 7with its later suffix of ,laffitte7 is all but forgotten4 ,francois ,mansart built the first ,chateau de ,maisons on a magnificent scale for ,rene de ,longueil1 the ,superintendent of ,finance4 ,in a later century it made a most effectual appeal to another financier1 ,laffitte1 the banker1 who parcelled out the park and stripped the chateau4 ,for a century1 though1 the chateau belonged to the family of its founder1 and in #afeh the surrounding lands were made into a ,marquisate4 ,in #afga1 on the day of the death of ,philippe1 ,duc d',anjou1 ,maisons may be said to have become royal for the court there took up its residence4 ,later1 the ,marquis de ,soyecourt became the owner and ,voltaire stayed here for a time2 in fact he nearly died here from an attack of smallpox4 ,in #aggh the property was acquired by the ,comte d',artois and the royal family of the time were frequent guests4 ,the king1 the queen and each of the princes all had their special apartments1 and if ,louis ,,xvi had not been too busy with other projects1 more ambitious ones1 there is little doubt but that he would have given ,maisons an eclat which during all of its career it had just missed4 ,at the ,revolution it was sold as ,national ,property and the proceeds turned into public coffers4 ,with the ,empire the chateau became more royalist than ever4 ,marechal ,lannes became its proprietor1 then the ,marechal de ,montebello1 who here received ,napoleon on many occasions4 ,with the invasion of #ahae the village was devastated1 but the chateau escaped1 owing to its having been made the headquarters of the invading allies4 ,after this1 in #ahah1 the banker ,laffitte came into possession4 ,he exercised a great hospitality and lived the life of an opulent bourgeois1 but he destroyed most of the outbuildings and the stables built by ,mansart1 and cut up the great expanse of park which originally consisted of five hundred hectares4 ,his ideas were purely commercial1 not the least esthetic4 ,the scheme of decoration within1 as without1 is distinctly unique4 ,doric pilasters and columns support massive cornices and round-cornered ceilings1 with here and there antique motives and even ,napoleonic eagles as decorative features4 ,to-day all the apartments are deserted and sad4 ,the finest1 from all points of view1 is that of the ,salle-a-,manger1 though indeed some of the motives are but plaster reproductions of the originals4 ,the chimney-piece1 however1 is left1 a pure bijou1 a model of grace1 more like a pagan altar than a comparatively modern mantel4 ,the oratory is in the pure style of the ,empire1 and the stairway1 lighted up by a curiously arranged dome-lantern1 gives a most startling effect to the entrance vestibule4 ,in general the design of ,maisons is gracious1 not at all outre1 though undeniably grandiose2 too much so for a structure covering so small an area4 ,the ,cour d',honneur gives it its chief exterior distinction and the two pavilions have a certain grace of charm1 when considered separately1 which the ensemble somewhat lacks4 ,the surroundings1 had they not been ruthlessly cut up into building lots for over-ambitious ,paris shopkeepers1 would have added greatly to the present appearance of the property4 ,as it is1 the near-by race-course absorbed the orchard1 the pelouse and many of the garden plots4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,malmaison ,,and ,,marly ,out from ,paris1 by the cobbly ,pave du ,roi1 which a parental administration is only just now digging up and burying under1 just beyond the little suburban townlet of ,rueil 7where the ,empress ,josephine and her daughter ,hortense lie buried in the parish church71 one comes to ,malmaison of unhappy memory4 ,it is not imposing1 palatial1 nor1 architecturally1 very worthy1 but it is one of the most sentimentally historic of all ,french monuments of its class4 ,since no very definite outlines remain of any royal historical monument at ,rueil to-day the tourist bound towards ,versailles by train1 tram or road1 gives little thought to the snug little suburb through which he shuffles along1 hoping every minute to leave the noise1 bustle and cobblestones of ,paris behind4 ,rueil is deserving of more consideration than this4 ,according to ,gregory of ,tours the first race of kings had a pleasure house here1 and called the neighbourhood ,rotolajum4 ,not always did these old kings stay cooped up in a fortress in the ,isle of ,lutetia4 ,sometimes they went afield for a day in the country like the rest of us1 and to them1 with their slow means of communication and the bad roads of their day1 ,rueil1 scarce a dozen miles from ,notre ,dame1 seemed far away4 ,childerbert ,i1 son of ,clovis1 is mentioned as having made a protracted sojourn at ,rueil1 and whatever may have existed then in the way of a royal residence soon after passed to the monks of ,saint ,denis1 who here fished and hunted and lived a life of comfort and ease such as they could hardly do in their fortress-abbey4 ,they1 too1 required change and rest from time to time1 and1 apparently1 when they could1 took it4 ,the ,black ,prince burned the town and all its dependencies in #acdf1 and only an unimportant village existed when ,richelieu thought to build a country-house here on this same charming site which had so pleased the first ,french monarchs4 ,richelieu did his work well1 as always1 and built an immense chateau1 surrounded by a deep moat into which were turned the swift-flowing waters of the ,seine4 ,a vast park was laid out1 in part in the formal manner and in part as a natural preserve1 and the neighbourhood once more became frequented by royalty and the nobles of the court4 ,richelieu bequeathed the property to his niece1 the ,duchesse d',aiguillon1 and ,louis ,,xiv became a frequent dweller there--as a visitor1 but he did not mind that4 ,louis ,,xiv was sometimes a monarch1 sometimes a master1 and sometimes a family friend1 to put it in a noncommittal manner4 ,the ,revolution nearly made way with the property and the ,duc de ,massena1 a few years afterwards1 reestablished it after a fashion1 but speculating land-boomers came along in turn and royal memories meaning nothing to them the property was cut up into streets1 avenues and house lots4 ,the ,chateau de ,malmaison1 which is very near ,rueil1 is in quite a different class4 ,its history comes very nearly down to modern times4 ,the memory of ,malmaison is purely ,napoleonic4 ,its historical souvenirs are many1 but its actual ruins have taken on a plebeian aspect of little appeal in these later days4 ,in #agib ,malmaison was sold as a piece of national merchandise to be turned into ecus1 and a certain ,monsieur ,lecouteux de ,canteleu1 having the ready cash and a disposition to live under its roof1 took over the proprietorship for a time4 ,it was he who sold it to ,josephine ,beauharnais1 and it was she who gave it a glory and splendour which it had never before possessed1 gave it its complete fame1 in fact4 ,napoleon himself1 as ,first ,consul1 was passionately fond of the place1 but by the time he had become emperor1 because of unhappy memories1 perhaps1 for he had them at times1 came rarely to this charming suburban chateau4 ,it was at ,malmaison that began the good fortune of ,josephine1 and it was at ,malmaison that it flickered out like the dying flame of a candle4 ,in a beating rain1 on ,saturday1 ,december #af1 #ahji1 ,josephine quitted the ,tuileries1 her eyes still red with the tears from that last brief interview4 ,she arrived at ,malmaison at the end of a lugubrious day1 when the whole place was enveloped in a thick fog4 ,she passed the night almost alone in this great house where she had previously been so happy4 ,she could hardly1 however1 have been more sad than ,napoleon was that same night4 ,he had shut himself up in his cabinet1 remorseful and alone4 ,the ,sunday following was hardly less melancholy1 for it was then ,josephine learned that ,malmaison had been endowed with an income of two millions for its upkeep1 and that her personal belongings and the furnishings of her favourite apartments were already on the way thither from the ,tuileries4 ,the wound was not even then allowed to heal1 for she learned that ,napoleon had ordained that she was to receive the visits of the court as if she were still empress4 ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,malmaison ,napoleon had already written his former spouse to the effect that he would give much to see her1 but that he did not feel sufficiently sure of himself to permit of it4 ,this historic letter closed thus2 ,adieu1 ,josephine1 bonne nuit1 si tu doutais de moi1 tout sera bien indigne4 ,on the #agth of ,december ,napoleon actually did come to ,malmaison to see her from whom he was officially separated4 ,josephine had confided to ,madame de ,remusat1 her lady-in-waiting1 ,it almost seems as if ,i were dead1 and only possessed of the faculty of remembering the past4 ,in this ,malmaison1 so full of souvenirs of other days1 ,josephine was obliged to content herself1 for on ,january #ab1 #ahaj1 the religious marriage of ,josephine and ,napoleon was annulled automatically because1 as was claimed1 it had not been celebrated with the necessary formalities4 ,here at ,malmaison ,josephine even surrounded herself with the most intimate souvenirs of ,napoleon3 a lounging chair that he was wont to occupy stood in its accustomed place2 his bed was always made2 his sword hung upon the wall2 his pen was in his inkwell2 a book was open on his desk and his geographical globe--his famous mappemond--was in its accustomed place4 ,princes passing through ,paris came to ,malmaison to salute the former empress1 and she allowed herself to become absorbed in her greenhouses and her dairy1 the direction of her house1 her receptions and her petite cour4 ,in time all came to an end4 ,when ,napoleon returned to ,paris in #ahae he interrogated the doctor who had cared for ,josephine during the illness which terminated in her death the year before and asked him3 ,did she speak of me at the last8 ,the doctor replied3 ,often1 very often4 ,with emotion ,napoleon replied simply3 ,bonne femme3 bonne ,josephine elle m'aimeit vraiment4 ,after ,waterloo ,napoleon himself retired to ,malmaison1 which had become the property of ,josephine's children1 ,eugene and ,hortense1 and closed himself up in the room where she died1 the library which he occupied when triumphant ,first ,consul4 ,here he lived five mortal days of anguish preceding his departure for ,rochefort on that agonizing exile from which he never returned4 ,after the divorce ,josephine preserved the property as her own particular residence1 and in #ahad received there the celebrated visit of the allied sovereigns4 ,history tells of a certain boat ride which she took on a neighbouring lake in company with the ,emperor ,alexander which is fraught with much historic sentiment4 ,it was this imprudent excursion1 in the cool of a ,may evening1 that caused the death of the former empress three days later4 ,it was from this bijou of a once royal abode that ,napoleon launched his famous proclamation to the army which the arrogant ,fouche refused to have printed in the ,moniteur ,officiel4 ,upon this ,napoleon sent the ,duc de ,rovigo to ,paris for his passports and the necessary orders which would enable him to depart in peace4 ,the next moment he had changed his mind1 and he changed it again a few moments afterwards4 ,as the result of the ,prussians' advance on ,paris by the left bank of the ,seine ,napoleon was obliged to accept the inevitable1 and with the words of ,general ,becker ringing in his ears3 ,sire1 tout est pret1 he crossed the vestibule and entered the gardens amid a painful calm on his part1 and an audible weeping by his former fellows in arms who were lined up to do him honour4 ,he embraced ,hortense passionately1 and saluted all the personages of his party with a sympathy and emotion unbelievable4 ,with an eternal adieu and a rapid step down the garden walk to the driveway1 he at last entered the carriage which was awaiting him and was driven rapidly away4 ,some days after the ,allies pillaged and sacked ,malmaison4 ,its chief glory may be said to have departed with the ,corsican4 ,under the ,restoration1 ,prince ,eugene had a sort of rag sale of what was left4 ,the lands which ,josephine had bought of ,lecouteaux were sold to the highest bidder and the exotic shrubs and plants to any who would buy1 the pictures to such connoisseurs as had the price1 those that were left being sent to ,munich4 ,a ,swedish banker now came on the scene 7#ahbf7 and bought the property--the chateau and the park--which he preserved until his death twenty years later4 ,then it went to ,queen ,christina1 and was ultimately purchased by ,napoleon ,,iii4 ,in ,october1 #ahgj1 during the siege of ,paris1 ,general ,ducrot sought to make a reconnaissance by way of ,malmaison1 and so weak was his project that the equipages of the ,king of ,prussia and his ,etat ,major invested the environs and made the property their official headquarters4 ,near by is a fine property called ,les ,bruyeres1 a royal estate of ,napoleon ,,iii4 ,it was created and developed by the emperor and was always referred to as a ,parc ,imperial4 ,perhaps the most banal of all the royal souvenirs around ,paris is that gigantic mill-wheel known as the ,machine de ,marly1 down by the ,seine a few miles beyond ,malmaison1 just where that awful cobblestoned roadway begins to climb up to the plateau on which sits the chateau of ,saint ,germain and its park4 ,because it is of unesthetic aspect is no reason for ignoring the famous ,machine de ,marly1 the great water-hoisting apparatus first established in the reign of ,louis ,,xiv to carry the waters of the ,seine to the ponds and fountains of ,versailles4 ,it was a creation of a ,liegois1 named ,rennequin ,sualem1 who knew not how to read or write1 but who had a very clear idea of what was wanted to perform the work which ,louis ,,xiv demanded4 ,for a fact the expense of the erection of the ,machine1 and the cost of keeping its great wheels turning1 were so great that it is doubtful if it was ever a paying proposition1 but that was not a sine qua non so far as the king's command was concerned4 ,it had cost millions of livres before its wheels first turned in #afhb1 and1 if the carpenter ,brunet had not come to the rescue to considerably augment the volume of water raised 7by means of compressed air71 it is doubtful if there would ever have been enough water for the fountains of ,versailles to play even one day a year1 as they do now every happy ,sunday1 to the delight of the middle-class ,parisian and the droves of ,cookites who gaze on them with wonder-opened eyes4 ,the water was led from the ,machine de ,marly to ,versailles by a conduit of thirty-six arches where1 upon reaching a higher level than the gardens1 it flowed by gravity to the fountains and basins below4 ,this aqueduct was six hundred and forty-three metres long1 and twenty-three metres high4 ,it was a work which would have done credit to the ,romans4 ,a far greater romantic sentiment attaches itself to the royal chateau of ,marly-le-,roi than to the utilitarian ,machine1 by which the suburb is best known to-day4 ,the history of ,marly-le-,roi appears from the chronicles the most complicated to unravel of that of any of the kingly suburbs of old ,paris1 though in the days of the old locomotion a townlet twenty-six kilometres from the capital was hardly to be thought of as a suburb4 ,marly-le-,roi1 at any rate1 with ,marly-le-,bourg and ,marly-le-,chatel1 was a royal dwelling from the days of ,thierry ,,iii 7#fgh74 ,the neighbouring region had been made into a countship by the early seventeenth century1 and ,louis ,,xiv acquired it as his right in exchange for ,neuphle-le-,chateau in #afic1 incorporating it into the domain of ,versailles4 ,by this time it had become known as ,marly-le-,roi1 in distinction to the other bourgs1 and the king built a chateau-royal1 variously known as the ,palais and the ,ermitage4 ,for a fact it was neither one thing nor the other1 according to accepted definition1 but rather a group of a dozen dependent pavilions distributed around a central edifice1 the whole straggling off into infinite and manifestly unlovely proportions4 ,it was as the sun surrounded by the zodiac4 ,isolated on a monticule by the river bank the chateau overlooked its brood of small pavilions1 which in a way formed an entresol1 or foyer1 leading to the ,pavilion ,royal4 ,all were connected by iron trellises1 en berceau1 and the effect must have been exceedingly bizarre2 certainly theatrical4 ,the four faces of these pavilions were frescoed1 and balustrades and vases at the corners were the chief architectural decorations4 ,the royal pavilion consisted within of four vestibules on the ground floor1 each leading to a grand apartment in the centre4 ,in each of the four angles was a self-contained apartment of three or four rooms4 ,what this royal abode lacked in beauty it made up for in convenience4 ,each of the satellite pavilions was occupied by a high personage at court4 ,the ,chapel and the ,corps de ,garde were detached from the chateau proper1 and occupied two flanking wings4 ,the plans of the ,palais-,chateau-,ermitage of ,marly-le-,roi were from the fertile brain of ,mansart1 and were arranged with considerable ingenuity1 if not taste1 generously interspersed with lindens and truly magnificent garden plots4 ,there was even a cascade1 or rather a tumbling river 7according to the ,french expression71 for it fell softly over sixty-three marble steps1 forming a sort of wrinkled sheet of water1 which must indeed have been a very charming feature4 ,it cost a hundred thousand ecus to merely lead the water up to it4 ,the expenses of the ,pavilion de ,marly1 in the ten years from #afhj to #afij1 amounted to #dejabgi livres1 #ab sols1 #c deniers4 ,from this one may well judge that it was no mean thing4 ,the honour of being accounted a person of ,marly in those times was accredited as a great distinction1 for it went without saying in that case one had something to do with affairs of court1 though one might only have been a furnisher4 ,to be a courtier of ,louis ,,xiv1 or to be a pensionnaire at ,versailles1 could hardly have carried more distinction4 ,the court usually resided at ,marly from ,wednesday until ,saturday1 and as the game was the thing it is obvious that the stakes were high4 ,the vogue of the day was gaming at table1 and ,marly1 of all other suburban ,paris palaces1 was an ideal and discreet place for it4 ,high play and midnight suppers were the rule at ,marly4 ,this1 one reads in the court chronicle1 and further that3 ,the royal family usually lost a hundred thousand ecus at play at each visit4 ,one gentleman croupier gained as much as three thousand louis at a single sitting4 ,madame de ,maintenon was the real ruler of ,marly in those days2 she had appropriated the apartments originally intended for the queen1 from which there was a private means of communication to the apartments of the king1 and another forming a sort of private box1 overlooking the royal chapel4 ,little frequented by ,louis ,,xv1 and practically abandoned by ,louis ,,xvi1 the palace at ,marly was sold during the ,revolution1 after which it was stripped of its art treasures1 many of which adorn the gardens of the ,tuileries to-day2 the great group of horses at the entrance to the ,champs ,elysees came from the watering place of ,marly4 ,actually1 the royal pavilion at ,marly has been destroyed1 and there remain but the most fragmentary1 unformed heaps of stones to tell the tale of its ample proportions in the days of ,louis ,,xiv and de ,maintenon4 ,the park is to-day the chief attraction of the neighbourhood1 like the one at ,saint ,cloud1 which it greatly resembles4 ,across the park lies the great highway from the capital to ,versailles1 over which so many joyous cavalcades were wont to amble or gallop in the days of gallantry4 ,the pace is not more sober to-day1 but gaily caparisoned horses and gaudy coaches have given way to red and yellow ,rois des ,belges1 the balance lying distinctly in favour of the former mode of conveyance1 so far as picturesqueness is concerned4 ,the ,foret de ,marly is very picturesque1 but of no great extent4 ,formerly it enclosed many shooting-boxes belonging to the nobles of the court1 of which those of ,montjoie and ,desert de ,retz were perhaps the most splendid4 ,on the ,versailles road was the ,chateau de ,clagny1 a royal maison de plaisance1 of an attractive1 but trivial1 aspect1 though its architecture was actually of a certain massiveness4 ,its gardens and the disposition of its apartments pleased the king's fancy when he chose to pass this way1 which was often4 ,he is said to have personally spent over two million francs on the property4 ,it must have been of some pretensions1 this little heard of ,chateau de ,clagny1 for in a single year ten thousand livres were expended on keeping the gardens4 ,to-day it is non-existent4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,saint ,,cloud ,,and ,,its ,,park ,the historic souvenirs of ,saint ,cloud and its royal palace are many and varied1 though scarcely anything tangible remains to-day of the fabric so loved by ,francis ,i and ,henri ,,ii1 and which was1 for a fact1 but a magnificent country-house1 originally belonging to the ,archbishops of ,paris4 ,to-day the rapid slopes of the hillsides of ,saint ,cloud are peopled with a heterogeneous mass of villas of what the ,parisian calls the coquette order1 but which breathe little of the spirit of romance and gallantry of ,renaissance times4 ,saint ,cloud is simply a discreet ,paris suburb1 and the least said about it1 its villas and their occupants to-day1 the better4 ,the little village of ,saint ,cloud which is half-hidden in the ,forest of ,rouvray1 was sacked and burned by the ,english after the battle of ,poitiers1 and then built up anew and occupied by the ,french monarchs in the reign of ,charles ,,vi4 ,it was he who built the first chateau de plaisance here in which the royal family might live near ,paris and yet amid a sylvan environment4 ,after this came the country-house of the ,archbishops of ,paris that ,henri ,,ii1 when he tired of it1 tore down and erected a villa in the pseudo-,italian manner of the day1 and built a fourteen-arch stone bridge across the ,seine1 which was a wonder of its time4 ,the banker ,gondi1 after huddling close to royalty1 turned over an establishment which he had built to ,catherine de ,medici1 who made use of it whenever she wished to give a country fete or garden party4 ,by this time the whole aspect of ,saint ,cloud was royal4 ,it was within this house that the unhappy1 and equally unpopular1 ,henri ,,iii was cut down by the three-bladed knife of the monk ,jacques ,clement4 ,the incident is worth recounting briefly here because of the rapidity with which history was made by a mere fanatical knife-thrust4 ,with the death of ,henri ,,iii came the extinction of the ,house of ,valois4 ,as the king sat in the long gallery of the palace playing at cards1 on ,august #a1 #aehi1 his cloak hanging over his shoulder1 a little cap with a flower stuck in it perched over one ear1 and suspended from his neck by a broad blue ribbon a basketful of puppies1 an astrologer by the name of ,osman was introduced to amuse the royal party4 ,they tell me you draw horoscopes1 remarked the king4 ,sire1 ,i will tell yours1 if you will1 but the heavens are unpropitious4 99 99 99 99 99 ,just over ,meudon is a star which shines very brightly1 continued the astrologer1 it is that of ,henri de ,navarre4 ,but look1 your ,majesty1 another star burns brilliantly for a moment and then disappears1 mayhap it is your own4 ,if ever a man had a voice hoarse with blood it is that astrologer1 said the king4 ,away with him4 ,if the ,valois ,henri doesn't die before the setting of another sun1 ,i'll never cast horoscope more1 said the astrologer as he was hustled across the courtyard and out into the highroad4 ,as he left1 a man in a monk's garb begged to be admitted to the king's presence4 ,it was ,jacques ,clement1 the murderous monk1 a wily ,dominican1 bent on a mission which had for its object the extinction of the ,valois race4 ,while the king was reading a letter which the monk had presented the latter stabbed him deep in the stomach4 ,swooning1 the king had just time to cry out3 ,ha6 le mechant moine3 ,il m'a tue1 qu'on le tue4 ,the murderer in turn was struck down forthwith and his body1 thrown from the windows of the palace1 was ecartele by four white horses1 which is the neat ,french way of saying drawn and quartered4 ,it was an imposing cortege which wound down from the heights of ,saint ,cloud and followed the river bank to ,saint ,germain1 ,poissy and thence to ,compiegne1 conveying all that was mortal of ,henri ,,iii1 the least popular of all the race of ,valois4 ,following close behind the bier were ,henri ,,iv and his suite1 the favourites d',epernon1 ,laschant1 ,dugastz and an impressive soldiery4 ,after the death of ,henri ,,iii1 ,henri de ,navarre1 who played a not unpicturesque part in the funeral ceremonies1 installed himself in a neighbouring property known as the ,maison du ,tillet4 ,thus it is seen that the royal stamp of the little bourg of ,saint ,cloud was never wanting--not until the later palace and most of the town were drenched with kerosene and set on fire by the ,prussians in #ahga4 ,the ,maison de ,gondi came1 by a process of acquisition1 and development1 in time1 to be the royal palace of ,saint ,cloud4 ,its overloaded details of ,italian architecture were brightened up a bit by the surroundings planned and executed by the landscapist ,le ,notre and the life of the court in its suburban retreat took on a real and genuine brilliance which under the restraint of the gloomy walls of the ,louvre and ,paris streets could hardly have been4 ,the brightest light shining over ,saint ,cloud at this time was the radiance shed by the brilliant ,henriette d',angleterre4 ,her reign as a social and witty queen of the court was brief4 ,she died at the age of twenty-six1 poisoned at the instigation of the ,chevalier de ,lorraine whom she had caused to be exiled4 ,this was the common supposition1 but ,louis ,,xiv was afterwards able to prove 787 his brother innocent of the crime4 ,the gazettes of the seventeenth century recount many of the fetes given at ,saint ,cloud by ,monsieur on the occasion of his marriage to the ,princesse ,palatine in #afga4 ,one of the most notable of these was that given for ,louis ,,xiv1 wherein the celebrated cascades--an innovation of ,le ,notre--were first brought to view4 ,mansart was called in and a great gallery intended for fetes and ceremonies was constructed1 and ,mignard was given the commission for its decorations4 ,monsieur died within the walls of the palace to which he had added so many embellishments1 as also did his second wife4 ,three royalties dead of ambition1 one might well say1 for their lives were neither tranquil nor healthful4 ,they went the pace4 ,the regent journeyed out from ,paris to this riverside retreat to receive the ,tzar ,peter in #agag1 and in #ageb ,louis ,philippe d',orleans set about to give a fete which should obscure the memory of all former events of a like nature into oblivion4 ,how well he succeeded may be a matter of varying opinion1 for the ,french have ever been prodigally lavish in the conduct of such affairs4 ,at all events the occasion was a notable one4 ,the predilection of royalty for ,saint ,cloud was perhaps not remarkable1 all things considered1 for it was1 and is1 delightfully environed1 and about this time the ,duc d',orleans secretly married the ,marquise de ,montesson and installed her in a habitation the plus simple1 a mere shack1 one fancies1 costing six millions4 ,the nouveau riche of to-day could scarcely do the thing with more eclat4 ,the ,revolution took over the park of ,saint ,cloud and its appurtenances and donated them to the democracy--for the pleasure of the people1 read the decree4 ,on the eighteenth ,brumaire1 the ,first ,republic blinked itself out in the ,palais de ,saint ,cloud1 and the ,conseil de ,cinq ,cents installed itself therein under the ,directoire4 ,bonaparte1 returning from ,egypt1 arrived at ,saint ,cloud just as ,lemercier was dissolving the ,conseil4 ,seeing trouble ahead he commanded ,murat to clear the chamber by drawn bayonets4 ,he kept his light shining just a bit ahead of the others1 did ,napoleon4 ,his watchword was initiative4 ,deputies clambered over each other in their haste to escape by stairway1 door and window1 and ,bonaparte saw himself ,consul without opposition--for ten years--for life4 ,the royal residences were put at ,napoleon's disposition and he wisely chose ,saint ,cloud for summer2 ,saint ,cloud the cradle of his powers4 ,as a restorer and rebuilder of crumbling monuments ,napoleon was a master1 as he was in the destructive sense when he was in the mood1 and changes and additions were made at ,saint ,cloud which for comfort and convenience put it in the very front rank of ,french royal residences4 ,in ,march1 #ahje1 ,pope ,pius ,,vii baptised1 amid a grand pomp and ceremony1 in the chapel of the palace1 the son of ,louis ,bonaparte1 and five years afterwards 7,april #a1 #ahaj71 the same edifice saw the religious marriage of ,napoleon with ,marie ,louise4 ,on ,march #ca1 #ahaj1 a strange animation dominated all the confines of the palace4 ,it was the occasion of the celebration of ,napoleon's civil marriage with ,marie ,louise4 ,they did not enter the capital until three days later for the ceremonial which united the daughter of the emperors who were descendants of the ,roman ,caesars1 to the ,usurper1 who was now for the first time to rank with the other crowned heads of ,europe4 ,the cortege which accompanied their majesties from ,saint ,cloud to ,paris was a pageant which would take pages to describe4 ,the reader of these lines is referred to the impassioned pages of the works of ,frederic ,masson for ample details4 ,a hundred thousand curiosity seekers had come out from ,paris and filled the alleys of the park to overflowing4 ,music and dancing were on every hand4 ,mingled with the crowd were soldiers of all ranks brilliantly clad in red1 blue and gold4 ,these warriors were a picturesque1 obtrusive lot1 said a chronicler2 after having invaded ,austria they acclaim the ,austrian4 ,in #ahae the capitulation of ,paris was signed at ,saint ,cloud4 ,the gardens were invaded by a throng which gave them more the aspect of an intrenched camp than a playground of princes4 ,a brutal victor had climbed booted and spurred into the bed of the great ,napoleon and on arising pulled the bee-embroidered draperies down with him and trampled them under foot4 ,was this a proper manifestation of victory8 ,illustration3 ,the ,gardens of ,saint ,cloud ,at this period another great fete was given in the leafy park of ,saint ,cloud1 a fete which ,french historians have chiefly passed over silently4 ,the host on this occasion was the ,prince of ,schwartzenburg2 the principal guests the foreign sovereigns1 gloating over the downfall of the capital4 ,louis ,,xviii1 after removing the traces of this desolate invasion1 took up his residence here on ,june #ah1 #ahag1 and in the following year built the stables and the lodgings of the ,gardes du ,corps4 ,in #ahbj the chapel begun by ,marie ,antoinette was finished and the ,jardin du ,trocadero constructed4 ,charles ,x in his brief reign built1 on the site of an old ,ursulin convent1 further quarters intended for the personnel of the court4 ,the ensemble ever took on an increasing importance4 ,at this time were laid out the gardens between the cascades and the river1 which1 to some slight extent1 to-day1 suggest the former ample magnificence of the park as it faced upon the river4 ,leading through this lower garden was the ,avenue ,royale extending to the chateau4 ,saint ,cloud for ,charles ,x1 in spite of his first interest therein1 could have been but an unhappy memory for here he signed the abdication which brought about his fall4 ,he left his palace at ,saint ,cloud on ,july #cj1 #ahcj1 at three o'clock in the morning1 just as day was breaking through the mists of the valley4 ,he succumbed1 the last of the ,bourbons1 on the same spot on which ,henri ,,iv1 as chief of the house1 had first been saluted as king4 ,louis ,philippe divided his time between ,neuilly and ,saint ,cloud1 and lent his purse and his enthusiasm to elaborating to a very considerable extent both the palace and its surroundings4 ,napoleon ,,iii made ,saint ,cloud his preferred summer residence1 and was actually beneath the palace roof when the ,prussian horde commenced its march on the capital of ,clovis4 ,he left ,saint ,cloud on ,july #bg1 to take personal command of the ,army of the ,rhine at ,metz4 ,as did ,charles ,x1 ,napoleon ,,iii ceased to be sovereign of the ,french by enacting the final scene in his royal career in the ,palais de ,saint ,cloud4 ,never again was the palace to give shelter to a ,french monarch4 ,the empress left precipitately after the disaster of ,woerth1 and two months after the torch of arson made a ruin of all the splendour of the palace and its dependencies4 ,the inhabitants of the little city1 which had grown up around the confines of the palace1 fled in refuge to ,versailles during the armistice4 ,scarcely an old house was preserved in all the town4 ,among the chefs d'oeuvres of art which perished in the flames were the fine works of ,mignard--above all1 the magnificent ,galerie d',apollon--the paintings of ,le,moyne1 ,nacret1 ,leloir1 the marines of ,joseph ,vernet and innumerable objects of art which had been gathered together for the embellishment of ,saint ,cloud by the later monarchs4 ,some few treasures were saved by the care of the ,crown ,prince of ,prussia1 and some vases1 chairs and statues were appropriated and packed off across the ,rhine as the plunder of war4 ,the park of ,saint ,cloud to-day contains nearly four hundred hectares1 the public park and the preserve4 ,from it spreads out one of the loveliest panoramas in the neighbourhood of ,paris1 alleyed vistas leading seemingly to infinity1 with a sprinkling of statues still flanking the ,jardin du ,trocadero4 ,from the town one enters the park through a great iron gate from the ,place ,royale1 or by the ,avenue du ,chateau1 which lands one on the terraces where once stood the royal palace4 ,from ,ville d',avray and from ,sevres there are also entrances to the great park1 while to the latter runs an avenue connecting the preserve of ,saint ,cloud with the wilder1 more rugged ,bois de ,meudon4 ,actually the surroundings of ,saint ,cloud's great park are the least bit tawdry4 ,here and there are booths and tents selling trashy souvenirs1 and even more unpleasant-looking articles of food and drink1 while fringing the river1 and some of the principal avenues approaching the cascade1 are more pretentious restaurants and eating houses which are royal in name and their prices if nothing else4 ,the cascades are for the masses the chief sight of ,saint ,cloud to-day4 ,historical souvenir plays little part in the minds of those who only visit a monumental shrine to be amused1 and so the falling waters of ,saint ,cloud's cascade1 like the gushing torrents of ,versailles' fountains1 are the chief incentives to a holiday for tens of thousands of small ,paris shopkeepers who do not know that a royal palace was ever here1 much less that it had a history4 ,there is an upper and a lower cascade1 an artificial water ingeniously tumbled about according to the conception of one ,lepaute1 an architect of the time of the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,illustration3 ,the ,cascades at ,saint ,cloud ,mansart designed the architectural attributes of the lower cascade and scores considerably over his colleague4 ,circular basins and canals finally lead the water off to a still larger basin lower down where it spouts up into the air to a height of some forty odd metres at a high pressure4 ,this is the official description1 but it is hard to get up any sympathy or enthusiasm over the thing1 either considered as a work of art or as a diversion4 ,frankly1 then1 ,saint ,cloud's chief charm is its site and its dead and half-forgotten history4 ,the ,tramp ,abroad and ,rollo and ,uncle ,george knew it better than we1 because in those days the palace existed in the real1 whereas we take it all on faith and regret 7sometimes7 that we did not live a couple of generations ago4 ,bellevue1 on the banks of the ,seine1 just before reaching ,saint ,cloud1 owes its origin 7a fact which the great restaurant of the ,pavillon ,bleu has made the most of in its advertisements71 to a caprice of ,madame de ,pompadour4 ,she liked the point of view 7as do so many diners on the restaurant terrace to-day71 and built a rendezvous-chateau on the hillside1 a half-way house1 as it were1 where ,louis ,,xv might be at his ease on his journeyings to and from the capital4 ,the ,pompadour was able to borrow a force of eight hundred workmen from the king for as long as was necessary to carry out her ambitious projects at ,bellevue and on ,november #be1 #agej1 she had a house-warming in her modest villa 7demolished in #agid7 and pendit la cremaillere with a ceremony whose chief entertainment was the dancing of a ballet significantly entitled ,l',amour ,architect4 ,neighbouring upon ,saint ,cloud is a whole battery of hallowed1 historical spots associated with the more or less royal dwellings of the ,french monarchs and their favourites4 ,it was but a comparatively short distance to ,versailles1 to ,saint ,germain1 to ,maintenon and to ,rambouillet1 and the near-by ,louveciennes was literally strewn with the most charming country-houses1 which1 in many cases1 kings paid for and made free use of1 though indeed the accounts for the same may not have appeared in the public budgets1 at least not under their proper names4 ,at the summit of the hill which gives the town its name was a chateau belonging originally to ,madame la ,princesse de ,conti1 and opposite the railway station of to-day1 with its prosaic and unlovely surroundings1 was a magnificent property belonging to ,marechal ,magnan1 and the ,pavillon du ,barry1 built by the architect ,ledoux to the orders of ,louis ,,xv1 who would provide a convenient nest in the neighbourhood of ,saint ,cloud for his latest favourite4 ,to-day the pavilion exists in name1 somewhat disfigured to be sure1 but still reminiscent of its former rather garish outlines1 so on the whole it cannot be said to have suffered greatly from an esthetic point of view4 ,the property came finally to be included as a part of the estate of ,pierre ,laffitte1 though still known1 as it always has been1 as the ,pavillon du ,barry4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,versailles3 ,,the ,,glory ,,of ,,france ,glorieuse1 monumentale et monotone ,la facade de pierre effrite1 au vent qui passe ,son chapiteau friable et sa guirlande lasse ,en face du parc jaune ou s'accoude l'automne4 99 99 99 ,mais le soleil1 aux vitres d'or qu'il incendie ,y semble rallumer interieurement ,le sursaut1 chaque soir de la ,gloire engourdi4 ,these lines of ,henri de ,regnier explain the aspect of the ,versailles of to-day better than any others ever written4 ,versailles is a medley of verdure1 a hierarchy of bronze and a forest of marble4 ,this is an expression full of anomalies1 but it is strictly applicable to ,versailles4 ,its waters1 jets and cascades1 its monsters1 its ,tritons and ,valhalla of marble statues set off the artificial background in a manner only to be compared to a stage setting--a magnificent stage setting1 but still palpably unreal4 ,yes1 ,versailles is sad and grim to-day2 one hardly knows why1 for its memories still live1 and the tangible evidences of most of its great splendour still stand4 ,voici tes ifs en cone et tes tritons joufflus ,tes jardins composes ou ,louis ne vient plus1 ,et ta pompe arborant les plumes et les casques4 ,it is not possible to give here either an architectural review or a historical chronology of ,versailles2 either could be made the raison d'etre for a weighty volume4 ,the writer has confined himself merely to a more or less correlated series of patent facts and incidents which1 of itself1 shows well the futility of any other treatment being given of a subject so vast within the single chapter of a book4 ,the history of ,versailles is a story of the people and events that reflected the glory and grandeur of the ,grand ,monarque of the ,bourbons and made his palace and its environs a more sublime expression of earthly pomp than anything which had gone before1 or has come to pass since4 ,versailles1 after its completion1 became the perfect expression of the decadence and demoralization of the old regime4 ,it can only be compared to the relations between du ,barry and the young ,marie ,antoinette1 who was all that was contrary to all for which the former stood4 ,that the court of ,louis ,,xv was artificially brilliant there is no doubt4 ,it was this that made it stand out from the sombre background of the masses of the time4 ,it was a dazzling1 human spectacle1 and ,versailles1 with its extravagant1 superficial charms1 carried it very near to the brink of ruin1 though even in its most banal vulgarities there was a certain sense of ambitious sincerity4 ,the people of the peasant class lived as animals1 black1 livid and scorched by the sun4 ,the sense of all this penetrated readily even to ,versailles1 so that ,la ,pompadour or ,louis1 one or the other of them1 or was it both together1 cried out instinctively3 ,apres nous le deluge4 ,the intricacies of the etiquette of the daily life of the king1 his follies and fancies1 made the history of ,versailles the most brilliant of that of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries--certainly it was the most opulent4 ,the manners of the time were better than the morals1 and if good taste in art and architecture had somewhat fallen there is no doubt but that a charming fantasy often made up for a lack of estheticism4 ,the story of the palace1 the park1 the king and his court are so interwoven that no resume of the story of one can ignore that of any of the others4 ,the king and court present themselves against this background with an intimacy and a clearness which is remarkable for its appeal to one's curiosity4 ,it is a long1 long day of life which begins with the petit lever and only ends with the grand coucher4 ,if there was ever a ,castle of ,indolence and ,profligacy it was ,versailles1 though indeed it is regarded as the monarchy's brilliant zenith4 ,the picture is an unforgetable one to any who have ever read its history or seen its stones4 ,in the year #afej1 ,martial de ,lomenci1 one of the ministers of ,charles ,,ix1 was the ,seigneur of ,versailles1 but at the will of ,catherine de ,medici he was summarily strangled that she might get possession of the property and make a present of it to her favourite1 ,albert de ,gondi1 ,marechal de ,retz4 ,about #afbe ,louis ,,xiii had caused a small hunting pavilion to be built near by and1 by degrees1 acquiring more land took it into his head to erect something more magnificent in the way of a country-house1 though the real conception of a suburban ,paris palace only came with ,louis ,,xiv4 ,levau1 the latter's architect1 made the necessary alterations to the structure already existing1 and little by little the more magnificent project known in its completed form to-day was evolved4 ,war not being actually in progress1 or imminent1 great bodies of soldiery were set at work with pick and shovel1 and at one time thirty thousand had laid aside their sabres and muskets for the more peaceful art of garden-making under the direction of ,le ,notre4 ,in three decades the sum total of the chief roll of expenses of the palace and its dependencies reached eighty-one million1 one hundred and fifty-one thousand1 four hundred and fourteen livres1 nine sols and two deniers4 ,it is perhaps even more interesting to know that of this vast sum more than three millions went for marble1 twenty-one millions for masonry1 two and a half millions for the rougher woodwork and a like sum for marquetry4 ,other additional trifling embellishments of ,versailles and the ,trianon during the same period counted up another six million and a half4 ,the expense of these works was enormous on all sides4 ,water being required for the purpose of supplying the fountains it was proposed that the waters of the ,eure should be turned from their original bed and made to pass through ,versailles1 and the enterprise was actually begun4 ,beyond the gardens was formed the ,little ,park1 about four leagues around1 and beyond this lay the ,great ,park1 measuring twenty leagues around and enclosing several forest villages4 ,the total expenses of these works may never have been exactly known1 but they must have been immense1 that is certain1 and have even been estimated at as much as one billion francs4 ,the works were so far completed in #affd that the first ,versailles fete was given to consecrate the palace4 ,in honour of this event ,moliere composed ,la ,princesse d',elide4 ,the improvements1 however1 were continued1 and in #afgj1 ,levau1 dying1 was succeeded by his nephew1 ,jules ,hardouin ,mansart1 who wished to destroy the chateau of ,louis ,,xiii and erect one uniform building4 ,louis ,,xiv1 out of respect to his father1 would not allow ,mansart's project to be carried out and therefore alterations were only made in the court by surrounding it on the western side with the magnificent buildings now forming the garden front4 ,the southern wing was subsequently added for the accommodation of the younger members of the royal family4 ,in #afhe the northern wing was erected to meet the requirements of the attaches of the court4 ,the chapel was commenced in #afii and finished in #agaj4 ,louis ,,xiv took up his residence in the palace in #afha with ,madame de ,montespan1 and1 thirty-five years afterwards1 died there1 the reigning favourite then being ,madame de ,maintenon4 ,during this time ,versailles was the theatre of many extraordinary scenes4 ,louis ,,xv was born here but did not take up his residence here until after he was of age4 ,here it was that his favourites ,madame de ,chateauroux1 ,madame de ,pompadour and ,madame du ,barry found themselves most at home4 ,it was under the direction of this monarch that the theatre was built in the northern wing1 and was formally opened on the occasion of the marriage of the dauphin1 ,louis ,,xvi1 in #aggj4 ,towards the end of the reign of ,louis ,,xv a new wing and pavilion were added on the northern side of the principal court1 and it was proposed to build across the court a new front in the same uniform style4 ,the idea could not be carried out in consequence of the troublous times of ,louis ,,xvi and the enormous estimated expense4 ,the ,revolution intervened and ,versailles remained closed until it was reopened by the first ,napoleon1 who1 however1 was unable to take up his residence in it on account of his frequent campaigns afield4 ,at the ,restoration ,louis ,,xviii1 as the representative of the ancient monarchy1 wished to make ,versailles the seat of the court1 but was deterred from doing so by the appalling previous expense4 ,during the reigns of both ,napoleon and ,louis ,,xviii considerable sums were expended in its refurbishing so that it was not wholly a bygone when finally the ,french authorities made of it1 if not the chief1 at least the most popular monument historique of all ,france4 ,and yet the aspect of ,versailles is sadly wearying4 ,to-day ,versailles is lonely2 one is haunted by the silence and the bareness1 if not actual emptiness4 ,only once in seven years does the old palace take on any air of the official life of the ,republic1 and that is when the two legislative bodies join forces and come to ,versailles to vote for the new president4 ,for the rest of the time it is deserted1 save for the guardians and visitors1 a memory only of the splendours imagined and ordained by ,louis ,,xiv4 ,for nearly a century the master craftsmen of a nation conspired to its beatification1 and certainly for gorgeousness and extravagance ,versailles has merited any encomiums which have ever been expended upon it4 ,it was made and remade by five generations of the cleverest workers who ever lived1 until it took supreme rank as the greatest storehouse of luxurious trifles in all the world4 ,one wearies though of the straight lines and long vistas of ,versailles1 the endless repetition of classical motives1 which1 while excellent1 each in its way1 do pall upon one in an inexplicable fashion4 ,it possesses1 however1 a certain dignity and grace in every line4 ,this is a fact which one can not deny4 ,it is expressive of--well1 of nothing but ,versailles1 and the part it played in the life of its time4 ,the millions for ,versailles were obtained in ways too devious and lengthy to follow up here4 ,even ,louis ,,xiv began to see before the end the condition into which he had led the nation1 though he punished every one who so much as hinted at his follies4 ,vauban1 the hero of a hundred sieges1 published a book on the relations between the king and court and the tax-paying masses and was disgraced forever after1 dying within a few months of a broken heart that he should have been so impotent in attempting to bring about a reform4 ,the life of the king at ,versailles had little of privacy in it4 ,from his rising to his going to bed he was constantly in the hands of his valets and courtiers1 even receiving ambassadors of state while he was still half hidden by the heavy curtains of his great four-poster4 ,they had probably been waiting hours in the ,salon de l',o,el de ,boeuf before being admitted to the kingly presence4 ,it was at this period that ,michael ,chamillard1 the ,minister of ,war1 introduced billiards into ,france by the way of ,versailles4 ,he played with ,louis ,,xiv and pleased him greatly1 but ,chamillard was no statesman1 as history and the following lines from his epitaph point out4 ,ci git le fameux ,chamillard ,de son ,roy le pronotaire ,qui fut un heros au billard ,un zero dans le ,ministere4 ,this apartment of the ,o,eil de ,boeuf was the ancient ,cabi du ,conseil4 ,it is a wonderfully decorated apartment1 and its furnishings1 beyond those which are actually built into the fabric1 are likewise of a splendour and good taste which it is to be regretted is not everywhere to be noted in the vast palace of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the garnishings of the chimney-piece alone would make any great room interesting and well furnished1 and the great golden clock1 finely chiselled and brilliantly burnished1 is about the most satisfactory ,french clock one ever saw1 marking1 as it does1 in its style1 the transition between that of ,louis ,,xiv and ,louis ,,xv4 ,versailles1 in many respects1 falls far short to-day of the ideal2 its very bigness and bareness greatly detract from the value of the historic souvenir which has come down to us4 ,changes could undoubtedly be made to advantage1 and to this point much agitation has lately been directed1 particularly in cutting out some of the recently grown up trees which have spoiled the classic vistas of the park1 and the removal of those ugly equestrian statues which the ,monarchy of ,july erected4 ,versailles only came under ,napoleon's cursory regard for a brief moment4 ,he hardly knew whether he would care to make his home here or not1 but ordered his architects to make estimates for certain projects which he had conceived and when he got them was so staggered at their magnitude that he at once threw over any idea that he may have had of making it his dwelling4 ,the ,revolution had stripped the palace quite bare2 no wonder that the emperor balked at the cost of putting it in order4 ,napoleon may have had his regrets for he made various allusions to ,versailles while exiled at ,saint ,helena1 but then it was too late4 ,louis ,philippe took a matter-of-fact view of the possible service that the vast pile might render to his family and accordingly spent much money in a great expanse of gaudy wall decorations which are there to-day1 thinking to make of it a show place over which might preside the genius of his sons4 ,these acres of meaningless battle-pieces1 ,algerian warfare and what not are characteristic of the ,citizen-,king whose fondness for red plush1 green repp and horsehair sofas was notable4 ,what he did at ,versailles was almost as great a vandalism against art as that wrought by the ,revolution4 ,last scene of all3--,under ,lebrun's magnificent canopied ceiling1 where the effigy of ,louis ,,xiv is being crowned by the ,goddess of ,glory1 and the ,german eagle sits on a denuded tree trunk screaming in agony and beating his wings in despair1 ,william of ,prussia was proclaimed ,emperor of ,united ,germany4 ,it was almost as great an indignity as ,france ever suffered2 the only greater was when the ,prussians marched through the ,arc de ,triomphe de l',etoile4 ,that was1 and is1 the ,frenchman's--the ,parisian's1 at all events--culminating grief4 ,the apartment referred to is the ,grand ,galerie des ,glaces 7or ,galerie ,louis ,,xiv71 which is accredited as one of the most magnificently appointed rooms of its class in all the world4 ,it is nearly two hundred and fifty feet in length1 nearly forty feet in width1 and forty-three feet in height4 ,it is lighted by seventeen large arched windows1 which correspond with arched niches on the opposite wall filled with mirrors--hence the name4 ,sixty ,corinthian columns of red marble with bases and capitals of gilt bronze fill up the intervening wall spaces4 ,the vaulted ceiling by ,lebrun is divided into eighteen small compartments and nine of much larger dimensions1 in which are allegorically represented the principal events in the history of ,louis ,,xiv1 from the ,peace of the ,pyrenees to that of ,nymeguen4 ,it was in this splendid apartment that ,louis ,,xiv displayed the grandeur of royalty in its highest phase and such was the luxury of the times1 such the splendour of the court1 that its immense size could hardly contain the crowd of courtiers that pressed around the monarch4 ,several splendid fetes took place in this great room1 of which those of the marriage of the ,duc de ,bourgogne in #afig and that given on the arrival of ,marie ,antoinette were the most brilliant4 ,following are three pen-pictures of this historic palace4 ,,the ,,versailles ,,of ,,long ,,ago4 ,it was to ,versailles that the ,grand ,roi repaired after his stern chase of the ,spaniards across ,flanders2 through the wood of ,saint ,germain and over those awful cobblestones which ,parisians know so well to-day rolled the gilded carrosse of the king4 ,he had already been announced by a runner who had also brought news of the latest victory4 ,courtiers and populace alike crowded the streets of the town in an effort to acquire a good place from which to see the arrival of the king4 ,intendants and servitors were giving orders on all sides1 frequently contradictory1 and gardeners were furbishing up the alleyed walks and flower beds in readiness for ,sa ,majeste ,louis ,quatorze and all his little world of satellites4 ,a majestic effervescence bubbled over all1 and the bourgeoisie enjoyed itself hugely1 climbing even on roof-tops and gables in the town without the palace gates4 ,the ,roi ,soleil came at last to his well-beloved city of ,versailles4 ,he arrived in a cloud of golden dust1 said a writer of the time1 and any who have seen ,versailles blazing and treeless in the middle of a long1 hot summer1 will know what it was like on that occasion4 ,cannons roared1 and the sound of revelry and welcoming joy was everywhere to be heard4 ,,the ,,versailles ,,of ,,yesterday4 ,the lugubrious booming of cannons came rolling over the meanderings of the ,seine from the capital4 ,the hard-heads of ,paris would understand nothing2 they would make flow never-ceasing rivers of blood4 ,the national troops were well-nigh impotent2 it was difficult to shoot down your own flesh and blood at any time2 doubly so when your native land has not yet been evacuated by a venturesome enemy4 ,it was the time of the ,commune4 ,traffic at ,versailles was of that intensity that circulation was almost impossible4 ,in spite of a dismal ,april rain the town was full of all sorts and conditions of men4 ,the animation of the crowd was feverish1 but it was without joy4 ,a convoy of prisoners passed between two lines of soldiers with drawn bayonets4 ,they were ,frenchmen1 but they were ,communards4 ,it was but a moment before they were behind the barred doors of the barracks which was to be their prison1 packed like a troop of sheep for the slaughter4 ,versailles itself1 the palace and the town1 were still sad4 ,the rain still fell in torrents4 ,,the ,,versailles ,,of ,,to-,,day4 ,roses1 begonias1 geraniums1 the last of a long hot summer1 still shed their fragrant memories over the park of ,versailles4 ,in the long1 sober alleys a few leaves had already dropped from the trees above1 marking the greensward and the gravel like a tapis d'orient1 red and green and gold4 ,flora and ,bacchus in their fountains seemed less real than ever before1 more sombre under the pale1 trickling light through the trees4 ,a few scattered visitors were about1 sidling furtively around the ,trianon1 the ,colonnade and the ,bosquet d',apollon2 and the birds of the wood were even now bethinking of their winter pilgrimage4 ,versailles was still sad4 ,the last rays of the setting sun shot forth reflected gold from the windows of the chateau and soon the silver blue veil of a ,september twilight came down like a curtain of gauze4 ,versailles1 the ,versailles of other days1 is gone forever4 ,who will awaken its echoes in after years8 ,when will the ,trianon again awake with the coquetries of a queen8 ,when will the city of the ,roi ,soleil come again into its own proud splendour8 ,the sun has set1 the great iron gates of the courtyard are closed1 the palace and all therein sleeps4 ,allon nous en d'ici3 laissons la place aux ombres4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,the ,,gardens ,,of ,,versailles ,,and ,,the ,,trianons ,versailles without its court of marble1 its fountains1 its gardens and its park1 and the attendant ,grand and ,petit ,trianons1 would hardly have the attraction that it has to-day4 ,the ensemble is something of more vast and varied extent than is to be seen elsewhere1 though its aspect has somewhat changed from what it was of old1 and the crowds of ,sunday and holiday visitors give the courts and alleyed walks somewhat the aspect of a modern amusement resort4 ,the gardens of ,versailles were but the framing of a princely dwelling created to respond to the requirements of a court which was attempting to do things on a grand scale4 ,everything was designed with most magnificent outlines2 everything was royal1 in all verity--architecture1 garden-making1 fetes1 receptions and promenades4 ,what setting1 then1 could have been more appropriate to the life of the times8 ,versailles1 the town1 had never prospered1 and has never proved sufficiently attractive to become a popular suburb2 and1 though to-day it passed the mark of half a hundred thousand population1 it never would have existed at all had it not been for the palace of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,were it not for the palace and its attributes1 ,versailles would have absolutely no memories for visitors1 except such as may have lunched well at the ,hotel des ,reservoirs or the ,hotel du ,trianon4 ,that is not everything1 to be sure2 but it is something1 even when one is on an historic pilgrimage4 ,even in the day of ,louis ,,xvi the popular taste was changing and ,versailles was contemptuously referred to as a world of automota1 of cold1 unfeeling statuary and of ,noah's ,ark trees and forests4 ,there was always a certain air of self-satisfaction about it1 as there is1 to-day1 when the ,parisian hordes come out to see the waters play1 and the sight-seers marvel at the mock splendour and the scraps of history doled out for their delectation by none-too-painstaking guardians4 ,in spite of all this1 no sober-minded student of art or history will ever consider ,versailles1 the palace and the park1 as other than a superb and a spectacular demonstration of the taste of the times in which it was planned1 built and lived in4 ,versailles was begun in #afbd by ,louis ,,xiii1 who built here a humble hunting-lodge for the disciples of ,saint ,hubert of whom he was the royal head4 ,so humble an erection was it that the monarch referred to it simply as a petite maison and paid for it out of his own pocket1 a rare enough proceeding at that epoch4 ,the critical ,bassompierre called it a chetif chateau1 and ,saint-,simon referred to it as a house of cards4 ,manifestly1 then1 it was no great thing4 ,it was1 however1 a comfortable country-house1 surrounded by a garden and a more ample park4 ,it was not ,lemercier1 the presiding genius of the ,louvre at this time1 but an unknown by the name of ,le ,roy1 whom ,louis ,,xiii chose as his architect4 ,boyceau traced the original parterres with a central basin at a crossroads of two wide avenues4 ,each of the four compartments thus made was ornamented with broderies and trimmed hedges1 and the open spaces were ingeniously filled with parti-coloured sands1 or earth4 ,a parterre of flowers immediately adjoined the palace and rudimentary alleys and avenues stretched off towards the wood4 ,although designed by ,boyceau1 this work was actually executed by his nephew1 ,jacques de ,menours1 who1 with difficulty1 collected his pay4 ,his books of account showed that in five years1 from #afca to #afcf1 he had drawn but once a year a sum varying from fifteen hundred to four thousand livres while in the same period the king had spent on the rest of the work at ,versailles two hundred and thirty-eight thousand livres1 thirty-two sols1 six deniers1 nearly one million one hundred thousand francs of the money of to-day4 ,the first of the outdoor embellishments of the palace at ,versailles is the great ,cour ,royale1 or the ,cour d',honneur1 which opens out behind the long range of iron gates facing upon the ,place d',armes4 ,at the foot of this entrance court is an extension called the ,cour de ,marbre4 ,this ,cour de ,marbre1 on ,january #e1 #ageg1 was the scene of the infamous attack on ,louis ,,xv by ,damiens1 just as the king was starting out for the ,trianon4 ,a thick redingote saved the king's life2 but for this mere pin-prick1 according to ,voltaire1 the monarch went immediately to bed1 and five times in succession sought absolution for his sins4 ,sins lay heavy even on royal heads in those days4 ,damiens was but a thick-witted1 superstitious valet1 who1 more or less persecuted by the noble employers with whom he had been in service at various times1 sought to avenge himself1 not on them1 but on their king1 as the figurehead of all that was rotten in the social hierarchy4 ,louis1 heretofore known as the ,bien ,aime1 had become suddenly unpopular because of the disastrous war against ,england and ,germany1 and his prodigal dissipation of public moneys4 ,stretching out behind the palace are the famous gardens1 the parterres1 the tapis vert1 the fountains and the grand canal1 with the park of the ,trianons off to the right4 ,good fortune came to ,louis ,,xiv when he found ,andre ,le ,notre1 for it was he and no other who traced the general lines of the garden of the ,versailles which was to be4 ,he laid a generous hand upon the park and forest which had surrounded the manor of ,louis ,,xiii1 and extended the garden to the furthermost limits of his ingenuity4 ,modifications were rapid1 and from #affd the parterres and the greensward took on entirely new forms and effects4 ,the ,parterre des ,reservoirs became the ,parterre du ,nord1 and an alley of four rows of lindens enclosed the park on all sides4 ,the ,parterre a ,fleurs1 or the ,jardin du ,roy1 between the chateau and the ,orangerie1 was laid out anew4 ,by the following year the park began to take on the homogeneity which it had hitherto lacked4 ,the great ,rondeau1 as it was called1 and which became later the ,bassin du ,dragon1 was excavated1 and the ,jardin ,bas1 or the ,nouveau ,parterre1 with an oval depression1 was also planned4 ,illustration3 ,cour de ,marbre1 ,versailles ,at one end of the park was the celebrated ,menagerie du ,roy1 where the rare and exotic animals collected by the monarch had a palace more magnificent than the home of any other dumb animals in the world4 ,this was the first period of formal garden construction at ,versailles1 and it was also the period when the first great impetus was given to sculptural decoration4 ,in #afgi1 following a journey in ,italy1 ,le ,notre took up again the work on the gardens at ,versailles1 devoting himself to the region south of the palace which hitherto had been ignored4 ,this was ,le ,notre's most prolific period4 ,the creations at ,versailles can be divided into two distinct epochs1 that before #afgj and that coming after4 ,after ,le ,notre's generous design1 the king and queen were seemingly never satisfied with the endless plotting and planting which was carried on beneath the windows of the palace1 and in many instances changed the colour schemes and even the outlines of ,le ,notre's original conceptions4 ,the ,versailles of to-day is no longer the ,versailles of ,louis ,,xiii1 so far as the actual disposition of details goes4 ,then there was very little green grass and much sand and gravel1 a scheme of decoration which entered largely into the seventeenth century garden4 ,this refers principally to the general effect1 for ,le ,notre made much use of the enclosing battery of lindens1 chestnuts and elms of a majestic and patriarchal grandeur which have since been cut and replaced by smaller species of trees1 or not replaced at all4 ,no sooner were the ornamental gardens planned at ,versailles than the ,potager du ,roy1 or fruit and vegetable garden1 was created4 ,this same garden exists to-day with almost its former outlines4 ,here a soil sufficiently humid1 and yet sufficiently well drained1 contributed not a little towards the success of this most celebrated of all kitchen gardens the world has known4 ,the work of installing a further system of artificial drainage was immediately begun1 and the ,eaux des ,suisses was created1 to take the place of a former stagnant pool near by4 ,undoubtedly it was a stupendous work1 like all the projects launched with regard to ,versailles1 but1 like the others1 it was brought to a speedy and successful conclusion4 ,the details of the history of this royal vegetable garden are fully set forth in a work published in #afij by the son of the designer1 the ,abbe ,michel de la ,quintinye1 in two bulky volumes4 ,it was meet that a royal vegetable garden should have been designed by a ',gentleman ,gardener1' said the faithful biographer in his foreword1 and as such the man and the work are to be considered here4 ,the work was accomplished by the combined efforts of a gracious talent and the expenditure of much money1 put at ,la ,quintinye's disposition by his royal master1 who had but to put his hand deep into the coffers of the royal treasury to draw it forth filled with gold4 ,critics have said that ,la ,quintinye's ability stopped with the preparation of the soil1 and with the design of the garden1 rather than with the actual cultivation1 but at all events it was he who made the garden possible4 ,la ,quintinye adopted ,arnauld d',andilly's method of planting fruit trees en espalier by training them against a wall-like background1 and to accomplish this divided the garden plot1 which covered an area of eight hectares 7twenty acres71 into a great number of subdivisions enclosed by walls1 in order to multiply to as great an extent as possible the available space to be used for the espaliers4 ,again1 these same walls served to shelter certain varieties which were planted close against them4 ,if this ,potager du ,roy was not actually the first garden of its class so laid out1 it was certainly one of the most extensive and the most successful up to that time4 ,the great terraces of at least two metres in width surrounded the central garden1 leaving a free area for the latter which approximated three hectares4 ,these terraces were divided into twenty-eight compartments1 forming nine distinct varieties of gardens4 ,the celebrated gardener of ,louis ,,xiv sought not only to obtain fruits and vegetables of a superior quality and an abundant quantity1 but was the first among his kind to produce early vegetables1 or primeurs1 in any considerable quantity1 and1 by a process of forced culture1 he was able to put upon the table of the monarch asparagus in ,december1 lettuce in ,january1 cauliflower in ,march and strawberries in ,april4 ,all these may be found at the ,paris markets to-day1 and at these seasons1 but the growing of primeurs for the ,paris markets has become a great industry since the time it was first begun at ,versailles4 ,of asparagus ,la ,quintinye said1 ,it is a vegetable that only kings can ever hope to eat4 ,the ,potager du ,roy was begun in #afgh1 and completed in #afhc4 ,it cost1 all told1 one million one hundred and seventy thousand nine hundred and eighty-three livres of which four hundred and sixty-seven thousand three hundred and sixty-four went for constructions in brick and stone1 walls1 enclosures and drains4 ,its annual maintenance 7#afhe7 amounted to twenty thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine livres4 ,the effort proved one of great benefit to its creator1 for ,la ,quintinye1 at the completion of this work1 received further commissions of a like nature from the ,prince de ,conde1 the ,duc de ,montansier1 ,colbert1 ,fouquet and others4 ,so great a marvel was this vegetable garden at ,versailles that it was the object of a pilgrimage of the ,doge of ,venice in #afhe1 and of the ,siamese ambassadors in the following year4 ,the garden has been preserved as an adjunct to ,versailles up to the present day4 ,for two centuries its product went to the ,service de ,bouche of the chief of state1 that is1 the royal dinner table2 but in #ahge the ,minister of ,agriculture installed there the ,french ,national ,horticultural ,college1 which to-day1 with a widened scope1 has admitted ornamental plants and trees to this famous garden4 ,nevertheless the general outlines have been preserved1 though certain of the terraces have disappeared1 as well as many of the walls of the original enclosure1 thus reducing the number of garden plots2 in fact but sixteen distinctly defined gardens remain1 including the ,clos aux ,asperges4 ,the general lines of the garden design of ,le ,notre and ,boyceau at ,versailles are to be noted to-day1 but if anything the maintenance of the gardens is hardly the equal of what it was in the time of ,louis ,,xiv and a seeming disaster has fallen upon ,versailles as these lines are being written4 ,the military authorities have set aside1 as a site for an aerostation camp1 some twenty-five acres of the park near ,rocquencourt4 ,this is one of the loveliest parts1 shaded by magnificent trees which1 presumably1 will have to be sacrificed1 since1 if left standing1 they would certainly interfere with maneuvering with military aeroplanes1 dirigibles and balloons4 ,at a time when deforestation is recognized to be one of the greatest dangers that menace a country's prosperity1 one of its consequences being such inundations as those which recently devastated ,paris and the ,seine valley1 it is regrettable that the forest surrounding ,versailles should be depleted4 ,illustration3 ,the ,potager du ,roy1 ,versailles ,furthermore1 the realization of the project means a loss of revenue to the state which at present derives some sixty thousand francs a year from the farming lease of this portion of the park4 ,therefore1 for material considerations1 as well as because ,versailles and its surroundings should be preserved intact as a noble relic of one of the grandest periods of ,french history1 one of the most beautiful creations of ,french genius1 the project attributed to the military authorities is short-sighted4 ,to diminish the attractions of ,versailles would certainly prove an unwise policy1 as the stream of tourists1 which is the chief source of profit to ,versailles and its population1 would inevitably be diverted to some other channel4 ,only a short time ago a ,societe des ,amis de ,versailles was created for the purpose of safeguarding its artistic and natural beauties4 ,the government gave the organization its approbation and there is something delightfully ironical in the fact that the military authorities of the same government are planning to destroy what the society1 fathered by the ,ministere des ,beaux ,arts1 was formed to preserve4 ,another modern aspect of the park of ,versailles was noted during the late winter when1 after a sharp freeze1 all the youth of ,paris had seemingly gone out to ,versailles for the skating only to be met by a freshly-posted notice which read3 ,defense ,de ,patiner ,par ,arrete du #ag ,decembre1 #ahdi ,these signs were posted here and there about the park1 in the courtyard1 on the postern gate1 on trees1 everywhere4 ,the authorities were bound that there should be no flagrant violation of the order of #ahdi4 ,you see1 said one of the park guardians1 c'est defendu2 but as we are only two and the crowd is very large we can do nothing4 ,this was evident4 ,thousands overran the ,grand ,canal1 which at its greatest depth was scarcely more than a yard to the bottom1 and so1 despite of monarchial decree1 ,republican ,france still skates on the ornamental waters of ,versailles when occasion offers4 ,n'oubliez pas le petit balayeur1 s'il vous plait1 was as often heard as ,allez vous-en4 ,on the whole it was rather a picturesque sight4 ,a thick haze hung over the now white ,tapis ,vert1 and the nude figures of the ,bassin d',apollon were clothed in a mantle of snow1 while the white-robed statues of the ,allee ,royale1 one could well believe1 shivered as one passed4 ,illustration3 ,the ,bassin de ,latone1 ,versailles ,the fountains of ,versailles1 the ,grands ,eaux and ,petits ,eaux1 which shoot their jets in air semi-occasionally for the benefit of ,paris's good papas and their children1 are distinctly popular features1 and of an artistic worth neither less nor greater than most garden accessories of the artificial order4 ,the fact that it costs something like ten thousand francs to play these fountains seems to be the chief memory which one retains of them in operation1 unless it be the crowds which make the going and coming so uncomfortable4 ,the ,orangerie lies just below the terrace of the ,parterre du ,midi1 and a thousand or more non-bearing orange trees are scattered about4 ,they are descendants of fifteenth century ancestors1 it is claimed--but doubtfully4 ,the great basin of water known as the ,eaux des ,suisses was excavated by the ,swiss ,guard of ,louis ,,xiv to serve the useful purpose of irrigating the ,potager du ,roy1 and as a decorative effect of great value to that part of the garden upon which faces the fourteen-hundred-foot front of the palace4 ,still farther off towards the ,bois de ,satory1 after crossing the ,tapis ,vert1 lie the famous ,bassins de ,latone and ,apollon1 the ,bassin du ,miroir and1 finally1 the ,grand ,canal1 with one transverse branch leading to the ,menagerie 7now the government stud-farm7 and the other to the ,trianons4 ,the satellite palaces known as the ,grand and ,petit ,trianons are1 like the ,palace of ,versailles itself1 of such an abounding historical interest that it were futile to attempt more than a mere intimation of their comparative rank and aspect4 ,the rather sprawling1 one-story1 horseshoe-shaped villa built by ,louis ,,xiv for ,madame de ,maintenon1 and known as the ,grand ,trianon1 was an architectural conception of ,mansart's4 ,it is worth remarking that the ,grand ,trianon1 to-day1 is in a more nearly perfect state than it has been for long past1 for the restorations lately made have removed certain interpolations manifestly out of place4 ,it is due to ,m4 de ,nolhac1 the ,conservateur du ,musee de ,versailles1 that this happy amelioration has been brought about and that ,mansart's admirable work is again as it was in the days of ,madame de ,maintenon and those of the later ,napoleon ,i4 ,illustration3 ,the ,fountain of ,neptune1 ,versailles ,in spite of all this the ,trianon of to-day is not what it was in the eighteenth century4 ,madame de ,maintenon1 said de ,musset1 made of ,versailles an oratory1 but ,la ,pompadour turned it into a boudoir4 ,he also called the ,trianon3 a tiny chateau of porcelain4 ,it was1 too1 the boudoir of ,madame de ,montespan4 ,louis ,,xv1 too1 built1 or furnished1 discreet boudoirs of this order on every hand4 ,more than one great gallery in which his elders had done big things he divided and subdivided into minute apartments and papered the walls1 or painted them1 all colours of the rainbow1 or hung them with silks or velvets4 ,don't you think my little apartment shows good taste1 he asked one day of the ,comtesse de ,seran at ,versailles4 ,not at all1 she replied1 ,i would much rather that the walls were hung in blue4 ,that particular apartment was in rose1 but1 since blue was the favourite colour of the monarch1 the reply was but flattering4 ,the next time that his friend1 the ,comtesse1 appeared on the scene the apartment had all been done over in blue4 ,the monarch soon began to turn his attention to the gardens4 ,bowers1 labyrinths and vases and statues were inexplicably mixed as in a maze4 ,he began to have the gout pastoral1 his biographer has said1 a vogue that ,madame du ,barry and ,marie ,antoinette came in time to push to its limits4 ,the king was too ready to admire all that was suggested1 all that was offered1 and the ultimate effect was--well1 it was the opposite of what he hoped it to be1 though doubtless he did not realize it4 ,in the garden of the ,grand ,trianon is a great basin with a cascade flowing down over a sort of a high altar arrangement in red and white marble called the ,buffet de l',architecture1 and evolved by ,mansart4 ,this architect certainly succeeded much better with his purely architectural conceptions than he did with interpolated decorative elements intended to relieve a formal landscape4 ,the ,petit ,trianon1 the pride of ,louis ,,xv1 was designed by the architect ,gabriel1 and its reigning goddess was ,marie ,antoinette4 ,souvenirs of the unhappy queen are many1 but the caretakers are evidently bored with their duties and hustle you through the apartments with scant ceremony that they may doze again undisturbed in their corners4 ,illustration3 ,petit ,trianon ,the garden of the ,petit ,trianon is a veritable ,jardin ,anglais1 that is1 the decorative portion1 where sweeps and curves1 as meaningless as those one sees on banknotes and no more decorative1 are found in place of the majestic lines of the formal garden when laid out after the ,french manner4 ,illustration3 ,la ,laiterie de la ,reine ,,petit ,,trianon ,the ,hameau1 where is the dairy where the queen played housewife and shepherdess1 is just to the rear of this bijou palace and looks stagy and unreal enough to be the wings and back-drop of a pastoral play4 ,near ,versailles was the ,chateau de ,clagny1 with a garden laid out by ,le ,notre1 quite the rival of many better known4 ,of it ,madame de ,sevigne wrote3 ,it is the ,palais d',armide2 you know the manner of ,le ,notre2 here he has done his best4 ,the ,couvent des ,recollettes1 just across the ,bois de ,satory1 was built by ,louis ,,xiv out of regard for the religieux whom he displaced from an edifice which stood upon a plot which was actually needed for the palace gardens4 ,the ,chateaux of ,noisy and ,molineaux were also affiliated with ,versailles4 ,the rest of the surroundings and accessories of ,versailles are mere adjunctive details of those chief features here mentioned4 ,to catalogue them even would be useless since they are all set down in the guidebooks4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,saint ,,germain-,,en-,,laye ,saint ,germain has not the popularity of ,versailles1 nor the charm of ,fontainebleau1 but it is more accessible than either1 and1 if less known and less visited by the general mass of tourists1 it is all the more delightful for that4 ,saint ,germain1 the chateau1 the town and the forest1 possess a magnificent site4 ,behind is a wooded background1 and before one are the meanderings of the ,seine which in the summer sunlight is a panorama which is to be likened to no other on earth4 ,across the river bottom run the great tree-lined roadways1 straight as the proverbial flight of the arrow1 while on the horizon1 looking from the celebrated terrace1 one sees to-day the silhouetted outline of ,paris with the ,tour ,eiffel and the dome of the ,sacre ,coeur as the culminating points4 ,the town itself is ugly and ill-paved1 and heavy-booted dragoons make a hideous noise as they clank along to and from the cavalry barracks all through the day and night4 ,neither are scorching automobiles making their ways to ,trouville and ,dieppe over the ,route des ,quarante ,sous a pleasant feature4 ,one can ignore all these things1 however1 for what is left is of a superlative charm4 ,illustration3 ,,saint ,,germain ,saint ,germain-en-,laye in the first stages of ,french history was but a vast extent of forest which under ,charlemagne came to the possession of the monks of the ,abbaye de ,saint ,germain-des-,pres4 ,the first royal palace here was built by ,king ,robert in the tenth century1 practically upon the site of the present edifice4 ,in the eleventh century there came into being another royal dwelling1 and in the twelfth century ,louis-le-,gros built a chateau-fort as a protection to the royal residence and monastery4 ,this did not prevent the ,black ,prince from very nearly burning them down on one of his bold raids1 but by #acfg1 ,charles ,v re-erected the castel of ,saint ,germain-en-,laye4 ,the ,english1 by coercion1 induced a monk of a neighbouring establishment at ,nanterre to deliver up a set of false keys by which the great gates of the castle were surreptitiously opened1 and1 for a time1 the descendants of the ,conqueror held possession4 ,the establishment of ,charles ,v in no way satisfying the artistic ambitions of ,francis ,i1 that monarch gave the task of reconstruction to the architect ,pierre ,chambiges1 in #aeci1 preserving only the ,saint ,chapelle of ,saint ,louis and the donjon4 ,the building must have gone forward with an extreme rapidity for at the architect's death1 in #aedd1 it had reached nearly the level of the rooftop4 ,chambiges' successor was his son-in-law1 ,guillaume ,guillain1 who1 without changing the primitive plan1 completed the work in #aedh4 ,saint ,germain1 above the first story1 is essentially a construction of bricks1 but the effect is even now1 as ,chambiges originally intended1 an edifice with its main constructive elements of lower sustaining walls and buttresses of stone binding together the slighter fabric1 or filling1 above4 ,although it is ,renaissance through and through1 ,saint ,germain shows not the slightest reminiscence of anything ,italian and must be considered entirely as an achievement of ,french genius4 ,this edifice of ,francis ,i was more a fortress than a palace in spite of its decorative features1 and ,henri ,,ii1 desiring something more of a luxurious royal residence1 began what the historians and savants know as the ,chateau ,neuf--the palace of to-day which stands high on the hill overlooking the winding ,seine1 to which seducing stream the gardens originally descended in terraces4 ,chiefly it is to ,henri ,,iv that this structure owes its distinction1 for previously work went on but intermittently1 and very slowly4 ,henri ,,iv brought the work to completion and made the chateau his preferred and most prolonged place of residence1 as indeed did his successor4 ,it is the ,chateau ,neuf of the time of ,henri ,,iv which is to-day known as the ,palais de ,saint ,germain-en-,laye4 ,of the ,vieux ,chateau only some fragmentary walls and piles of debris1 the ,pavillon ,henri ,,iv1 and1 in part1 the old royal chapel remain4 ,actually the structure of to-day includes that part of the ,hotel du ,pavillon ,henri ,,iv which is used as a restaurant4 ,henri ,,iv and ,louis ,,xiii gave ,saint ,germain its first great eclat as a suburban place of sojourn1 and from the comings and goings of the court of that time there gradually grew up the present city of twenty thousand inhabitants2 not all of them of courtly manners1 as one learns from a recollection of certain facts of contemporary modern history4 ,during the days when ,mazarin actually held the reins of state the court was frequently at ,saint ,germain4 ,louis ,,xiv was born here1 and until ,versailles and ,marly came into being he made it his principal dwelling4 ,it was in one of the magnificent apartments1 too1 midway between the angle turrets of the facade1 ,louis ,,xiii ended his unhappy existence in #afdb4 ,his own private band of musicians played a ,de ,profundis of his own composition to waft his soul on its long journey4 ,the chroniclers describe one of the monarch's last conversations as follows3 ,when they transport my body to ,paris after my soul has flown1 ,laporte1 remember that place where the road turns under the hill2 it is a rough road1 ,laporte1 and will surely shake my bones sadly if the driver does not go slowly4 ,those who have journeyed out from ,paris to ,saint ,germain by road in this later century will appreciate the necessity for the admonition4 ,louis ,,xiv1 unlike ,louis ,,xiii1 detested ,saint ,germain beyond words1 because the towers of the ,abbaye de ,saint ,denis1 where he was destined one day to be buried1 were visible from the terrace4 ,louis ,,xv was not so particular for he was so morbid that he even loved1 as he claimed himself1 the scent of new-made graves4 ,the arrival of ,anne d',autriche and the royal family at ,saint ,germain during the war of the ,fronde was one of the most dramatic incidents of the period4 ,they had travelled half the night1 coming from the ,palais ,royal only to find a palace awaiting them which was unheated and unfurnished though the time was mid-,january4 ,always drear and gaunt it was immeasurably so on this occasion4 ,mazarin had made no provision for the queen's arrival2 there1 were neither beds1 tables nor linen in their proper places1 no servants1 no attendants of any kind1 only the guardians of the palace4 ,the queen was obliged to take rest from her fatigue on a folding camp bedstead1 without covering of any kind4 ,the princes fared no better1 actually sleeping on the floor4 ,there were plenty of mirrors and much gold gingerbread on the walls and ceilings1 but no furniture4 ,the personal belongings which the court had brought with them were few4 ,no one had a change of clothing even2 those worn one day were washed the next4 ,however the queen good-naturedly smiled through it all4 ,she called it an escapade which can hardly last a week4 ,all ,paris was by this time crying ,vive la ,fronde3 ,mort a ,mazarin3 but it proved to be something more than a little affair of a week1 as we now know4 ,at this period1 when ,anne d',autriche was practically a prisoner at ,saint ,germain1 the picture made by the old chateau against its forest background was undeniably more imposing than that which one sees to-day4 ,the glorious forest was not then hidden by rows of banal roof-tops1 and the dull drabs of barracks and prisons4 ,in the warm spring mornings the glittering facade of the chateau was brilliant as a diamond against its setting1 and the radiating avenues of the park leading from the famous terrace stretched out into infinite vistas that were most alluring4 ,this effect1 fortunately1 is not wholly lost to-day4 ,at night things were as idyllic as by day4 ,the queen and her ladies1 relieved of the dreary presence of the king who still remained at ,paris1 revelled in an unwonted freedom4 ,concerts1 suppers and dances were the rule and moonlight cavalcades to the heart of the forest1 or promenades on foot the length of the terrace1 and by some romantically disposed couples far beyond1 gave a genuine begone1 dull care aspect to court life which was not at all possible in the capital4 ,the following picture1 taken from a court chronicle1 might apply as well to-day if one makes due allowance for a refulgence of myriad lamps gleaming out ,parisward as night draws in4 ,it is a rare moonlight night4 ,the queen and her ladies have emerged late on the stately terrace of ,henri ,,iv which borders upon the forest and extends for nearly a league along the edge of the height upon which stands the chateau4 ,the queen and her brother-in-law1 ,gaston1 ,duc d',orleans1 have seated themselves somewhat apart from the rest beside the stone balustrade which overlooks the steep descent to the plain below4 ,vineyards line the hillside and the ,seine flows far beneath1 the fertile river-bottom rich with groves and orchards1 villas and gardens4 ,still more distant sweeps away the great plain wrapped in dark shadows punctuated here and there with great splotches of moonlight4 ,of the great city beyond 7the ,paris of to-day1 whose myriad glow-worm lights actually do lend an additional charm7 not a vestige is to be seen4 ,scarcely a lantern marks the existence of a living soul in the vast expanse below1 but the moon1 high in the heavens1 plots out the entire landscape with a wonderful impressiveness1 and the stars topping the forest trees to the rear and the heights which rise on the distant horizon lend their quota of romanticism1 and1 as if by their scintillations1 mark the almost indiscernible towers of the old ,abbey of ,saint ,denis to the left4 ',oh1 what a lovely night1' said the queen to her companion4 ,again it is the old chronicler who speaks4 ',can the world ever appear so calm and peaceful elsewhere8' ,this ,terrasse de ,henri ,,iv1 so called1 is one of the most splendid and best-known terraces in ,europe1 and is noted for its extent as well as for its marvellous point of view1 the whole panorama ,parisward being spread out before one as if on a map1 a view which extends from the ,chateau de ,maisons on the left to the ,aqueduct de ,marly and the heights of ,louveciennes on the right1 including the ,bois de ,vesinet1 ,mont ,valerian1 ,montmartre and the whole ,parisian panorama as far as the ,coteaux de ,montmorency4 ,this terrace1 too1 was the project and construction of ,le ,notre in #afgb4 ,it is two and a half kilometres in length and thirty metres in width1 upheld by a stone retaining wall which is surmounted by a balustrade4 ,it extends from the ,pavillon ,henri ,,iv to a gun battery well within the confines of the forest4 ,entrance from the precincts of the palace is by the great ornamental iron gateway known as the ,grille ,royale1 from which an alleyed row of lindens leads to the heart of the forest4 ,the record of another merry party at ,saint ,germain is that which recounts that summer evening when the king and court scuttled about the park enjoying themselves as only royalty can--when some one else pays the bills4 ,the terrace1 the gravelled walks and the alleyed paths of the forest all led to charming and discreet rendezvous4 ,illustration3 ,the ,valley of the ,seine1 from the ,terrace at ,saint ,germain ,so preoccupied was every one on this particular occasion that the merry-makers had hardly a thought for their king1 who1 left to his own devices1 sought out four maids of honour gossiping in a bower1 and1 taking the mischief-loving ,lauzan into his confidence1 pried upon them in the ambush of the night4 ,they were gossiping over the dancers at the ball of the night before when one of them proclaimed her fancy for the agility and grace of the king above all others4 ,it was the first expression of ,la ,valliere since she had come timidly to court4 ,the rest is an idyll which is found set forth in all the history books at considerable length1 and at this particular moment it was a genuine idyll1 for the king had not then become the debauched roue that he was in later life4 ,after ,anne d',autriche1 ,henriette1 the widow of ,charles ,i of ,england1 found at ,saint ,germain a comfortable and luxurious refuge4 ,from #affa onward ,louis ,,xiv made frequent visits to ,saint ,germain and was so taken with the charms of the neighbourhood and the immediate site that he conjured six and a half million francs out of his ,civil ,list1 in addition to his regular stipend1 for the upkeep of this palace alone4 ,this was robbery3 modern graft pales before this2 candelabra by the pound and writing tables by the square yard were known before the days of machine politicians4 ,james ,,ii of ,england1 in #afhh1 found a hospitable refuge at ,saint ,germain1 thanks to ,louis ,,xiv1 and died within the palace walls in #agja1 as did his wife1 ,maria d',este1 in #agah4 ,louis ,,xv and ,louis ,,xvi gave ,saint ,germain scarce a thought1 and under the ,empire it became a cavalry school1 and later1 under the ,restoration1 sinking lower still1 it merited only the denomination of a barracks4 ,its culminating fall arrived when it was turned into a penitentiary4 ,napoleon ,,iii1 with finer instincts1 here installed a museum1 and restorations and rebuilding having gone on intermittently since that time the palace has now taken on a certain pretence to glory4 ,practically the palace in its present form is a restoration1 not entirely a new building1 but a rebuilding of an old one1 first begun under the competent efforts of the architect ,eugene ,millet1 who sought to reestablish the edifice as it was under ,francis ,i4 ,the great tower has been preserved but the corner pavilions of the period of ,louis ,,xiv have been demolished in accord with the carrying out of this plan4 ,for forty years ,saint ,germain has been in a state of restoration1 and like the restoration of ,pierrefonds it has swallowed up fantastic sums4 ,the western facade has been rebuilt from the chapel to the entrance portal and the last of ,mansart's pavilions1 which he built to please either his own fancy or that of ,louis ,,xiv1 have been demolished4 ,mansart himself made way with the old tourelles and the balustrade which rounded off the angles of the walls of the main buildings and substituted a series of heavy1 ugly maisonettes1 more like the bastions of a fortress than any adjunct to a princely dwelling4 ,the courtyard of the chateau is curiously disposed2 so that it may receive the sun at all times1 was the claim of its designer4 ,it1 too1 has been brought back to the state in which it was originally conceived and shorn of its encumbering outhouses and odds and ends which served their purposes well enough when it was a barracks or a prison1 but which were a desecration to anything called by so dignified a name as a chateau or a palace4 ,this courtyard is to-day as it was when the lords and ladies in the train of ,charles ,,ix strolled and even gambolled therein4 ,the ,chapelle de ,saint ,louis 7#abdj7 is in every way remarkable1 especially with respect to its great rose-window1 which was found by ,millet to have been walled up by ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the military museum of to-day1 which is enclosed by the palace walls1 possesses a remarkable collection of its kind1 but has no intimate lien upon the history of the palace4 ,the parterre before the palace is cut off from the forest of ,saint ,germain by three ornate iron gates4 ,it was relaid1 a transformation from designs originally conceived in #afgf1 by ,le ,notre1 modified in #agej and much reduced in size and beauty in the nineteenth century1 though later enlarged by taking three hectares of ground from the forest and turning them into the accepted form of an ,english garden4 ,a peninsula of a superficial area of over ten thousand acres snugly enfolded in one of the great horseshoe bends of the ,seine contains the ,foret de ,saint ,germain4 ,a line drawn across the neck of the peninsula from ,saint ,germain to ,poissy1 following the ,route de ,poissy1 completely cuts off this tongue of land which is as wild and wooded to-day as in the times of ,francis1 the ,henris and the ,louis4 ,the routes and allees of the forest are traced with regularity and precision1 and historians have written them down as of a length of nearly four hundred leagues1 a statement which a glance at any map of the forest will well substantiate4 ,high upon its plateau sits this historic wildwood1 for the most part of a soil dry and sandy1 with here and there some great mamelon 7,druidical or ,pagan1 as the case may be7 rising somewhat above the average level4 ,francis ,i1 huntsman and lover of art and nature1 did much to preserve this great forest1 and ,louis ,,xiv in his time developed its system of roads and paths1 chiefly to make hunting easy1 says history1 though it is difficult to follow this4 ,at all events the forest remains to-day the most extensive unspoiled breathing-spot of its class near ,paris4 ,within this maze of paths and alleys are many famed historic spots1 the ,chene ,saint ,fiacre1 the ,croix de ,noailles1 the ,croix ,saint ,simon1 the ,croix du ,main 7erected in #agji in honour of the son of ,louis ,,xiv71 the ,etoile des ,amazones1 the ,patte d',oie1 the ,chene du ,capitaine and many more which are continually referred to in the history of the palace1 the forest of ,saint ,germain-en-,laye1 and of the ,abbaye de ,poissy4 ,the forest is not wholly separated from the mundane world for occasionally a faint echo of the ,rouen railway is heard1 a toot from a river tug-boat bringing coal up-river to ,paris1 the strident notes of automobile horns1 or that of a hooting steam-tram which scorches along the principal roadway over which state coaches of kings and courtiers formerly rolled4 ,the contrast is not particularly offensive1 but the railway threatens to make further inroads1 so one hardly knows the future that may be in store for the patriarch oaks and elms and chestnuts which make up this secular wildwood4 ,their ages may not in all cases approach those of the great ,fontainebleau trees1 and in point of fact the forest is by no means as solitary1 nor ever was4 ,one of the most celebrated1 certainly one of the most spectacular1 duels of history took place in the park at ,saint ,germain-en-,laye4 ,gui ,chabot de ,jarnac lived a prodigal and profligate life at the expense--it was said--of the favours of the ,duchesse d',etampes4 ,the dauphin1 ,henri1 making an accusation1 deemed wholly uncalled for1 a duel judiciaire took place1 with ,la ,chataigneraie as the dauphin's substitute as adversary of de ,jarnac who sought no apology but combat4 ,it was because ,henri meantime had become king and issued his first ,letters ,patent to his council concerning the duel judiciaire1 whereby he absolved himself of the right to partake1 that he appointed his dear friend ,francois de ,vivonne1 ,seigneur de la ,chataigneraie1 to play the role for him4 ,unfortunately the young man could not justify by victory the honour of his king and before the monarch and the assembled court he was laid low by his adversary4 ,this was one of the last of the duels judiciaires in ,france4 ,what ,saint ,louis and ,philippe-le-,bel had vainly sought to suppress1 the procedure having cost at least a hundred thousand livres1 was practically accomplished by ,henri ,,ii by a stroke of the pen4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,maintenon ,out from ,paris1 on the old ,route d',espagne1 running from the capital to the frontier1 down which rolled the royal corteges of old1 lie ,maintenon and its famous chateau1 some sixty odd kilometres from ,paris and twenty from ,rambouillet4 ,just beyond ,versailles1 on the road to ,maintenon1 lies the trim little townlet of ,saint ,cyr1 known to-day as the ,west ,point of ,france1 the military school founded by ,napoleon ,i giving it its chief distinction4 ,going back into the remote past one learns that the village grew up from a foundation of ,louis ,,xiv1 who bought for ninety-one thousand livres a chateau and a convent for women1 that ,madame de ,maintenon might establish a girls' school therein4 ,she reserved an apartment for herself1 and one suspects indeed that it was simply another project of the ,widow ,scarron to have a place of rendezvous near the capital4 ,certainly under the circumstances1 taking into consideration the good that she was doing for orphaned girls1 she might at least have been allowed the right of a roof to shelter her when she wished4 ,she was absolutely dominant within1 though never actually in residence for any length of time4 ,it was here that ,esther and ,athalie1 which ,racine had composed expressly for ,madame de ,maintenon's pensionnaires1 were produced for the first time4 ,illustration3 ,fauteuil of ,mme4 de ,maintenon ,worked by the ,demoiselles of ,saint ,cyr ,when not actually living at ,saint ,cyr it was ,madame de ,maintenon's custom to come hither from ,paris each day1 arriving between seven and eight in the morning1 passing the day and returning to town for the evening1 much as a celebrated ,american millionaire journalist1 whose country-house overlooks the famous convent garden1 does to-day4 ,madame de ,maintenon actually went into retirement at ,saint ,cyr upon the death of ,louis ,,xiv1 and for four years1 until her death1 never left it4 ,she died from old age1 rather than from any grave malady1 in this ,maison d',education1 which she had inaugurated1 and was buried in the chapel1 beneath an elaborate tomb which the ,duc de ,noailles1 who married her niece1 caused to be erected4 ,the tomb was destroyed during the ,revolution and the ,maison ,royale de ,saint ,cyr1 of which nothing had been changed since its foundation1 was suppressed1 the edifice itself being pillaged and the remains of ,madame de ,maintenon sadly profaned1 finally to be recovered and deposited again in the chapel where a simple black marble slab marks them in these graven words3 ,cy-,git ,madame ,de ,maintenon #afce-agai-ahcf ,napoleon ,i established the ,ecole ,militaire at ,saint ,cyr1 from which are graduated each year more than four hundred subaltern officers4 ,the ancient gardens of ,madame de ,maintenon's time now form the ,champs de ,mars1 or drill ground1 of the military school4 ,south from ,saint ,cyr runs the great international highroad1 the old ,route ,royale of the monarchy4 ,it rises and falls1 but mostly straight as the flight of the crow1 until it crosses the great ,national ,forest of ,rambouillet4 ,following the valley of the ,eure almost to its headwaters it finally comes to ,maintenon1 a town of a couple of thousand souls1 whose most illustrious inhabitant was that granddaughter of ,theodore-,agrippa d',aubigne1 named ,francoise1 and who came in time to be the ,marquise de ,maintenon4 ,the ,chateau de ,maintenon was royal in all but name4 ,the ,tresorier des ,finances under ,louis ,,xi1 ,jean ,cottereau 7a public official who made good it seems1 since he also served in the same capacity for ,charles ,,viii1 ,louis ,,xii1 and ,francis ,i71 had a single daughter1 ,isabeau1 who1 in #aebf1 married ,jacques d',angennes1 who at the time was already ,seigneur de ,rambouillet4 ,as a dot this daughter acquired the lands of ,maintenon4 ,the property was afterwards sold to the ,marquis de ,villeray1 from whom ,louis ,,xiv bought it in #afgd and disposed of it as a royal gift to ,francoise d',aubigne1 the fascinator of kings1 who was afterwards to become 7in #afhh7 ,madame ,la ,marquise de ,maintenon4 ,this ambitious woman subsequently married her niece to the ,duc d',ayen1 son of the ,marechal de ,noailles1 and as a marriage portion--or possibly to avoid unpleasant consequences--turned over the property of ,maintenon to the young bride and her husband to whose family1 the ,noailles1 it has ever since belonged4 ,to-day the ,duc and ,duchesse de ,noailles make lengthy stays in this delightful seigneurial dwelling1 and since the apartments are full to overflowing of historical souvenirs of their family it may be truly said that their twentieth century life is to some considerable extent in accord with the traditions of other days4 ,the existence of this princely residence is an agreeable reminder of the life of luxury of the olden time albeit certain modernities which we to-day think necessities are lacking4 ,maintenon is certainly one of the most beautiful so-called royal chateaux of ,france1 if not by its actual importance at least by many of the attributes of its architecture1 the extent of the domain and the history connected therewith4 ,it bridges the span between the private chateau and those which may properly be called royal4 ,in the moyen-age ,maintenon was a veritable chateau-fort1 forming a quadrilateral edifice flanked by round towers at three of its angles1 and at the fourth by a great square mass of a donjon1 all of which was united by a vast expanse of solidly built wall which possessed all the classic attributes of the best military architecture of its time4 ,entrance was only over a deep moat spanned by a drawbridge4 ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,maintenon ,jean ,cottereau made his acquisition of the domain towards #adij and immediately planned a new scheme of being for the old fortress which1 according to a more esthetic conception1 would thus be brought into the class of a luxurious residential chateau4 ,he destroyed the courtines which attached the great donjon to the rest of the building1 and opened up the courtyard so that it faced directly upon the park4 ,he ornamented sumptuously the window framings1 the dormer windows1 and the turrets1 and framed in the entrance portal with a series of sculptured motives which he also added to the entrance to the great inner stairway4 ,in short it was an enlargement and embellishment that was undertaken1 but so thoroughly was it done that the edifice quite lost its original character in the process4 ,like all the chateaux built at this epoch ,maintenon was no longer a mere fortress1 but a palatial retreat1 luxurious in all its appointments1 and shorn of all the manifest militant attributes which it had formerly possessed4 ,the shell was there1 following closely the original outlines1 but the added ornamentation had effectually disguised its primordial existence4 ,living rooms needed light and air1 while a fortress or quarters for troops might well be ordained on other lines4 ,the ,renaissance livened up considerably the severe lines of the ,gothic chateaux of ,france1 and though invariably the marks of the transition are visible to the expert eye it is also true1 as in the case of ,maintenon1 that there is frequently a homogeneousness which is sufficiently pleasing to effectually cover up any discrepancies which might otherwise be apparent4 ,the warrior aspect is invariably lost in the transition1 and thus a ,renaissance residential chateau enters at once into a different class from that of the feudal fortress regardless of the fact that such may have been its original status4 ,the armorial device of ,jean ,cottereau--three unlovely lizards blazoned on a field of silver--is still to be seen sculptured on the two towers flanking the entrance portal which to-day lacks its old drawbridge before mentioned4 ,surrounding the edifice is a deep1 unhealthful1 mosquito-breeding moat which is all a mediaeval moat should be1 but which is actually no great attribute to the place considering its disadvantages4 ,one wonders that it is allowed to exist in so stagnant a condition1 as the running waters of the near-by ,eure might readily be made use of to change all this4 ,the site of the chateau at the confluence of the ,eure and the ,voise is altogether charming4 ,madame de ,maintenon did much to make the property more commodious and convenient and built the great right wing which binds the donjon to the main corps de logis4 ,her own apartments were situated in the new part of the palace4 ,she also built the gallery which leads from the ,tour de ,machicoulis to the pointed chapel1 which was a construction of the time of ,cottereau1 an accessory which every self-respecting country-house of the time was bound to have4 ,it was by this gallery that the open tribune in the little chapel was reached1 thus enabling ,louis ,,xiv to pass readily to mass while he was so frequent a visitor at that period when1 at ,maintenon1 he was overseeing the construction of his famous aqueduct4 ,maintenon has had the honour1 too1 to count among its illustrious guests ,racine1 who came at the request of ,madame de ,maintenon1 and here wrote ,esther and ,athalie which were later produced at ,saint ,cyr by ,madame de ,maintenon's celebrated band of ,demoiselles4 ,louis ,,xiv was not the last of royal race to accept the ,chateau de ,maintenon's hospitality for the unhappy ,charles ,x was obliged to ask shelter of its chatelain for himself and fleeing family4 ,they arrived a little after midnight of a hot ,august night1 slept as well as possible in the former apartments of ,madame de ,maintenon1 and attended mass in the chapel on the following morning4 ,the monarch then discharged the royal guard and the hundred ,swiss and gave up1 defeated at the game of playing monarch against the will of the people4 ,one enters the ,cour d',honneur by a great portal of the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,immediately before one is the principal facade1 with its towers of brick and its slender little turrets framing in so admirably the entrance door4 ,this facade is of the fifteenth century and on the tympan of the dormer windows one may still see the monogram of its builder1 ,cottereau4 ,the drawbridge has been made way with1 and the turrets over the portal have been bound together by a diminutive balcony of stone1 which1 while a manifest superfluity1 is in no way objectionable4 ,under the entrance vault are doors on either side giving access to the living apartments of the rez-de-chaussee4 ,in the inner courtyard is to be found the most exquisite architectural detail of the whole fabric1 the tower which encloses the monumental stairway1 to which entrance is had by a portal which is a veritable ,gothic jewel4 ,in the tympan of this portal1 as in the dormer windows1 is the device of ,jean ,cottereau1 except in this case it is much more elaborate--a ,saint ,michel and the dragon1 surrounded by a semis de coquilles bearing the escutcheons of the chatelain--d'argent a lezards de sable4 ,at the left of this stairway tower is the principal courtyard facade1 supported by four arcades1 pierced with great windows and surmounted by two fine dormer windows1 all in the style of ,louis ,,xii1 of which the same effects to be observed at ,blois and in the ,hotel d',alluye are contemporary4 ,at the left of the inner court is the wing built by ,cottereau which terminates in a great round tower1 while to the right is that erected by ,madame de ,maintenon ending at the donjon4 ,directly opposite is a magnificent vista over the canal of ornamental water framed on either side by patriarchal trees and having as a background the silhouette of the arches of the famous aqueduct which was to lead the waters of the ,eure to ,versailles4 ,the interior of the chateau is not less remarkable than the exterior4 ,entering by the tower portal one comes at once to that magnificent grand escalier which is accounted one of the wonders of the ,french ,renaissance4 ,the ,salle a ,manger of to-day was the old-time ,salle des ,gardes4 ,it is garnished with a fine wainscoting and panels of ,cordovan leather4 ,the ,chambre a ,coucher of ,louis ,,xiv1 to the left1 is to-day the ,salon1 and here are to be seen portraits of ,louis ,,xiv1 ,louis ,,xii1 ,francis ,i1 ,henri ,,iv1 and ,louis ,,xiii4 ,a tiny rotunda contains a statue of ,henri ,,iv as a child1 and portraits of ,madame de ,maintenon and ,louis ,,xiv in their youth4 ,a portrait gallery of restrained proportions contains effigies of ,madame de ,maintenon and her niece ,mademoiselle d',aubigne1 the ,duc de ,penthievre1 the ,comtesse de ,toulouse1 the ,duc de ,noailles1 the ,duchesse de ,villars and the ,duchesse de ,chaumont4 ,the show-piece of the chateau1 albeit of recent construction1 is known variously as the ,grand ,galerie and the ,longue ,galerie4 ,its decorations are due to the ,duc de ,noailles1 the father of the present proprietor4 ,virtually it is a portrait gallery of the ,noailles family1 going back to the times of the ,crusaders and coming down to the twentieth century4 ,the apartments of ,madame de ,maintenon form that portion of the chateau which has the chief sentimental interest4 ,in an ante-chamber is a chaise a porteurs once having belonged to the ,marquise1 and her portrait by ,mignard4 ,cordovan leather is hung upon the walls1 and the restored sleeping-room is hung with a canopy and separated from the rest of the apartment by a balustrade in bois dore4 ,above the chimney-piece is a portrait of ,louis ,,xiv1 after ,rigaud1 and1 finally1 the oratory is ornamented by a series of elegant sculptures in wood and a magnificent ,boule coffer4 ,illustration3 ,aqueduct of ,louis ,,xiv at ,maintenon ,in the left wing is found a beautiful chapel of the fifteenth century1 which is very pure in style4 ,it is decorated with a series of ,renaissance wood panels of the finest workmanship4 ,the coloured glass of the windows is of the sixteenth century4 ,the rebuilt monumental stairway connects directly with a passage leading to the entrance portico which opens on the garden terrace before the parterre4 ,the park of ,maintenon is in every way admirable1 with its pelouse1 its great border of trees1 its waterways and more than thirty bridges4 ,jean ,cottereau himself planned the first vegetable and fruit garden1 or potager1 the same whose successor is the delight of the dwellers at ,maintenon to-day4 ,the parterre1 the ,grand ,canal and the two avenues of majestic trees were due to the conception of ,le ,notre1 and their effect1 as set off by the alleyed forest background and the pillars of the aqueduct of ,louis ,,xiv1 is something unique4 ,the gardens at ,maintenon were perhaps not ,le ,notre's most famous work but they followed the best traditions of their time1 and because of their vast expanse of ornamental water were1 in a way1 quite unequalled4 ,ambling off towards the forest is a great avenue flanked with high overhanging shade trees known as the ,allee ,racine4 ,it gets its name from the fact that the dramatist was wont to take his walks abroad in this direction and woo the muse while he was a guest of ,madame de ,maintenon4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,rambouillet ,,and ,,its ,,forest ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,rambouillet ,rambouillet is one of the most famous of the minor royal chateaux of ,france4 ,built under the first of the monarchies1 in the midst of the vast forest of ,yveline1 it has always formed a part of the national domain4 ,even now1 under ,republican ,france1 it is still the scene of the hunts organized for visiting monarchs1 and1 within the last half dozen years alone1 the monarchs of ,spain and ,belgium1 ,italy and ,england have shot hares and stags and pheasants in company with a ,republican president4 ,the occasions have lacked the picturesque costumes of the disciples of ,saint ,hubert in other times2 but the huntsman still winds his horn to the same traditional tune and the banquets given in the chateau on such occasions are1 in no small measure1 an echo of what has gone before4 ,it was in the old chateau of ,rambouillet that ,francis ,i died4 ,in the month of ,march1 #aedg1 ,francis1 coming from ,chambord in the south1 crossed the accursed bridge and arrived at the foot of the ivy-grown donjon which one sees to-day1 the last remaining relic of the mediaeval fortress4 ,for a year the monarch had led a wandering life1 revisiting all the favourite haunts of his kingdom1 and1 though scarce turned fifty1 was prematurely aged and gray4 ,he was lifted tenderly from his royal coach1 and by the winding stair1 carried slowly to his apartments on the second floor1 overlooking the three canals and the accursed bridge and the tangled forest beyond4 ,jacques d',angennes1 to whose ancestors ,rambouillet one day belonged1 acted as host to his royal master and cared for him as a brother1 but ,francis was dispirited1 and growing weaker every moment4 ,he complained bitterly of the death of his favourite son from the plague1 and of that of the gay monarch across the channel1 his old friend1 ,henry ,,viii of ,england4 ,he was restless and wished to move on to ,saint ,germain1 but his condition made that impossible4 ,after a feeble attempt to rouse himself for a hunt in the forest1 he took to his bed again1 with the admonition to his friend d',angennes1 who never left him3 ,i am dying1 send for my son1 ,henri4 ,the prince joined the mourners around the royal bedside and heard his father's confession thus3 ,my son1 ,i have sinned greatly2 ,i have been led away by my passions2 follow that which ,i have done that is accredited good1 and ignore the evil2 above all1 cherish ,france2 be good to my people4 ,that was all except the final counsel to beware of the ,guises2 they are traitors4 ,after that he spoke no more4 ,francis ,i1 the gallant1 art-loving monarch1 the father of the ,renaissance in ,france1 was dead4 ,in #aefb1 ,catherine de ,medici1 accompanied by her son ,charles ,,ix1 here awaited the results of the momentous battle of ,dreux4 ,in #aehh1 ,henri ,,iii1 fleeing ,paris after the journee des barricades came here to rest1 and so fatigued was he on his arrival that he went to bed tout botte4 ,the son of ,louis ,,xiv and ,madame de ,montespan came into possession of the palace and lands and in his honour the property was made1 in spite of its limited area1 a ,duche-,pairie4 ,louis ,,xiv and ,madame de ,maintenon1 as was but natural1 because of its proximity to ,maintenon and to ,paris1 frequently honoured ,rambouillet with their presence2 and1 a little later1 ,louis ,,xv and the beautiful ,comtesse de ,toulouse followed suit4 ,the ,duc de ,penthievre1 to whom the property had by this time descended1 at the instance of ,louis ,,xvi1 ceded to that monarch the domain of ,rambouillet4 ,louis ,,xvi built vast commons and outbuildings1 all with some architectural pretence1 to house the appanage of the royal hunt1 and also built the ,laiterie de la ,reine and the model farm where1 in #aghf1 he established the first national sheepfold4 ,illustration3 ,laiterie de la ,reine1 ,rambouillet ,to-day this is the famous ,ecole de ,bergers1 where is quartered the largest flock of moutons a laine 7merino sheep7 in ,france1 they having been brought chiefly from ,spain4 ,the ,laiterie de la ,reine was a tiny sandstone temple with interior fittings chiefly of white marble1 and with a great1 round centre-table1 and smaller tables in each corner1 equally of marble1 as becomes a hygienically fitted dairy4 ,it was restored by ,louis ,napoleon during the ,second ,empire1 and is still to be seen in all its pristine glory4 ,in addition1 ,louis ,,xvi had at ,rambouillet a private domain of a considerable extent which only the ,constitution of #agia united to the ,civil ,list4 ,this property1 except the palace1 the park and the forest1 was sold later by the ,state4 ,the ,imperial ,civil ,list1 formed in #ahje by ,napoleon1 included these dependencies specifically1 and the emperor frequently hunted in the neighbouring forest1 though1 compared to his predecessors1 he had little time to devote to that form of sport4 ,here1 too1 was signed1 in #ahaj1 the decree which united ,holland with the ,empire4 ,rambouillet has fallen sadly since the ,revolution4 ,a decree of the ,representants du ,peuple1 of ,october #ad1 #agic1 provided that the furnishings of this palace1 heretofore royal1 shall be sold4 ,under the ,consulate and ,empire a certain citizen1 ,trepsat by name1 received an injury in protecting ,napoleon in an attack and1 as recompense1 was made the official ,architect and ,conservator of the ,palace of ,rambouillet4 ,hardly had ,trepsat entered upon his functions when he suggested the demolition of the chateau4 ,napoleon hesitated1 but finally partially agreed1 insisting1 however1 that enough should be left to form a comfortable hunting-lodge4 ,trepsat would have torn down all and rebuilt anew4 ,napoleon made an appointment with his architect to visit the property and discuss the matter in detail the following year 7#ahje71 but at that moment he was campaigning in ,austria1 so the interview was not held4 ,this was ,trepsat's chance1 and he found a pretext to overthrow the entire east wing1 but was stopped before he was able to further carry out his ignorant act of vandalism4 ,trepsat was severely reprimanded by the emperor himself1 and was ordered to put things back as he found them4 ,even the most battered and sickly architect who ever lived could hardly have had a worse inspiration1 said ,napoleon4 ,trepsat1 be it recalled1 had lost a leg4 ,the restoration was commenced1 but ,trepsat1 committing one fault after another1 and finally juggling with the accounts1 was obliged to take on a collaborator by the name of ,famin1 a young pensionnaire of the ,academie des ,beaux ,arts1 recently returned from ,rome4 ,it was he who saved ,rambouillet from utter destruction4 ,the apartments of ,napoleon1 which were those given over to public functions in the time of the ,comte de ,toulouse1 had been1 and were1 most luxuriously appointed4 ,that which shows most clearly the imprint of the imperial regime is the curious ,salle de ,bains which was in direct communication with the study1 or ,cabinet de ,travail4 ,it might have been a room in a ,pompeian house so classic were its lines and decorations4 ,there was a series of medallions painted on the wall representing portraits of members of the imperial family4 ,these were chiefly portraits of the female sex1 and ,napoleon1 the first time he entered his bath1 in an excess of modesty and fury cried out3 ,who is the ass that did this thing8 ,immediately they were painted out1 and1 for the sum of nine hundred and fifty francs1 another artist was found who filled the frames of the medallions with sights and scenes associated less intimately with ,napoleonic history4 ,under the ,empire the architect ,famin was commissioned to furnish a series of architectural embellishments to the gardens of ,rambouillet4 ,various stone statues were added and an octagon pavilion on the ,ile des ,roches was restored and redecorated4 ,two great avenues were cut through the parterre1 and1 as if fearing indiscretions on the part of his entourage1 the emperor caused to be planted long rows of lindens and tulip trees1 which were again masked by two rows of poplars4 ,the peloux of the ,jardin ,francais were reestablished and the curves and sweeps of the paths of the ,jardin ,anglais laid out anew4 ,this ancient government property1 arisen anew from its ruins1 now bore the name of the ,pavillon du ,roi de ,rome1 after the son of ,napoleon4 ,the ,ecuries1 or stables1 which had been built by ,louis ,,xvi1 were transformed into kennels1 and various posts1 or miniature shooting-boxes1 were distributed here and there through the park4 ,under the ,restoration the transformation of the chateau1 which had been projected ever since the time of ,louis ,,xvi1 undertaken and then abandoned by ,napoleon1 was again commenced1 but on a less ambitious scale than formerly4 ,chiefly this transformation consisted of opening up windows1 thus making practically a new facade4 ,it was not wholly a happy thought1 and the spirit of economy of ,louis ,,xviii1 no less1 perhaps1 than other motives1 arrested this mutilation and the architect was discharged from his functions4 ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,rambouillet ,again the hand of fate fell hard upon ,rambouillet and its definite eclipse as a royal abode came with the abdication of ,charles ,x4 ,the abdication was actually signed at ,rambouillet1 and here1 in the same ,salle du ,conseil1 the dauphin renounced the throne in favour of the young ,duc de ,bordeaux4 ,it was at ,rambouillet that ,charles ,x passed those solemn last days before the abdication4 ,he had been unmercifully harassed at ,paris and sought a quiet retreat1 not too far from the ,tuileries1 where he might repose a moment and take counsel4 ,in view of later events this was significant2 perhaps it was significant at the time1 for the king speedily repented his abdication4 ,it was too late1 for he had classed as rebels all the royalists who would have accepted the infant king as their monarch1 even though the following ,revolution prevented this4 ,it was on the third of ,august that the commissioners1 deputies of the ,provisionary ,government1 were brought before the king at ,rambouillet4 ,they announced that twenty-five thousand armed ,parisians were marching on the chateau to compel him to quit his kingdom4 ,it was not a matter for debate1 and at nine o'clock on the same night the monarch gave assent to being conducted to ,cherbourg1 where he embarked upon his fatal exile4 ,after #ahcj1 with a business-like instinct1 the authorities rented the property for twelve years to the ,baron ,schickler1 and1 at the end of the ,revolution of #ahdh1 its career became more plebeian still2 it was rented to a man who converted the palace into an elaborately appointed road-house1 and the lawns and groves into open-air restaurants and dancing places4 ,under the ,gouvernement du ,juillet the chateau1 the park and the forest were removed from the ,civil ,list1 and entered upon the inventory of the ,administration des ,domaines4 ,under the ,second ,empire ,rambouillet appeared again on the monarchial ,civil ,list4 ,napoleon ,,iii came here at times to hunt1 but not to live1 and of his rare appearances at the chateau but little record exists4 ,since #ahgj ,rambouillet has belonged to the ,republican ,government1 and1 since royalties no longer exist in ,france1 ,republican chiefs of state now take the lead in ,rambouillet's national hunts4 ,the property1 as it stands to-day1 is divided readily into four distinct parts1 the palace1 the parterre1 the ,jardin ,anglais and the park4 ,the grove of lindens is remarkable in every respect1 the ornamental waters are gracious and of vast extent1 and the ,laiterie and the ,ferme are decidedly models of their kind2 but the ,chaumiere des ,coquillages1 a rustic summer-house of rocks and shells and questionable debris of all sorts1 is hideous and unworthy4 ,not the least of the charming features of the park is the great alley of ,louisiana cypresses1 one of the real sights1 indeed1 perfecting the charm of the great body of water to the left of the chateau4 ,of the structure which existed in the fourteenth century1 the chateau of ,rambouillet retains to-day only a great battlemented tower1 and some low-lying buildings attached to it4 ,successive enlargements1 restorations and mutilations have changed much of the original aspect of the edifice1 and modern structures flank and half envelop that which1 to all eyes1 is manifestly ancient4 ,the debris of the old fortress1 which was the foundation of all1 adds its bit to the conglomerate mass of which the chief and most imposing elements are the two tall corps de logis in the centre4 ,within1 a rather banal ,salle de ,bal is shown as the chief feature1 but it is conventionally unlovely enough to be passed without emotion1 save that its easterly portion takes in the cabinet1 or private apartment1 where ,charles ,x signed his abdication4 ,adjoining this is the bedroom occupied by that monarch1 and a dining-room which also served ,his ,majesty1 and which is still used by the head of the government on ceremonious occasions4 ,its decorative scheme is of the period of ,louis ,,xv4 ,the ,salle de ,conseil is of the period of ,charles ,x1 and has some fairly imposing carved wainscotings showing in places the monograms of ,marie ,sophie and the ,comtesse de ,toulouse4 ,a great map1 or plan1 of the ,forest of ,rambouillet covers the end wall1 and1 if not esthetically beautiful1 is at least useful and very interesting4 ,it was executed under ,louis ,,xvi and doubtless served its purpose well when the hunters gathered after a day afield and recounted anecdotes of their adventures4 ,there is another apartment on the ground floor which is known as the ,salle a ,manger des ,rendezvous de ,chasse1 whose very name explains well its functions4 ,the ,cabinet de ,travail of ,marie ,antoinette and the ,salle de ,bain of ,napoleon have something more than a mere sentimental interest2 they were decidedly practical adjuncts to the royal palace4 ,napoleon's bath took the form of a rather short1 deep pool4 ,its fresco decorations1 as seen to-day--replacing that family portrait gallery which ,napoleon caused to be painted out--are after the pseudo-antique manner and represent bird's-eye views of various ,french cities and towns1 while a series of painted armorial trophies decorates the ceiling4 ,on the second floor are the apartments occupied by the ,duchesse de ,berry and those of the ,duchesse d',angouleme4 ,in the great round tower is the circular apartment where ,francis ,i breathed his last4 ,it is this great truss-vaulted room that most interests the visitor to ,rambouillet4 ,on the ground floor is another ,salle de ,bain1 quite as theatrically disposed as that of ,napoleon4 ,its construction was due to the ,comte de ,toulouse whose taste ran to ,delft tiles and polychrome panels1 framing two imposing marines1 also worked out in tiles4 ,the parterre1 extending before the main building1 is of an ampleness scarcely conceivable until once viewed4 ,it is purely ,french in design and is of the epoch of the tenancy of the ,comte de ,toulouse4 ,before the admirably grouped lindens was a boathouse1 and off in every direction ran alleys of acacias1 while here and there tulip beds1 rose gardens and hedges of rhododendrons flanked the very considerable ornamental waters4 ,this body of water1 in the form of a trapezoid1 is divided by four grass-grown islets and separates the ,jardin ,anglais from the ,jardin ,francais4 ,one of the islets is known as the ,ile des ,roches and contains the ,grotte de ,rabelais1 so named in honour of the ,cure of ,meudon1 when he was presented at ,rambouillet by the ,cardinal du ,bellay4 ,it was on this isle that were given those famous fetes in honour of the beaux esprits who formed the assiduous cortege of ,catherine de ,vivonne1 mythological1 pagan and outre4 ,the ,jardin ,anglais at ,rambouillet is the final expression of the species in ,france4 ,designed under the ,duc de ,penthievre1 it was restored and considerably enlarged by ,napoleon and1 following the contours of an artificial rivulet1 it fulfils the description that its name implies4 ,more remote1 and half hidden from the precincts of the chateau1 are the ,chaumiere and the ,ermitage and they recall the background of a ,fragonard or a ,watteau4 ,it is all very stagy--but1 since it exists1 can hardly be called unreal4 ,the park proper1 containing more than twelve hundred hectares1 is one of the largest and most thickly wooded in ,france4 ,between the parterre and the ,french and ,english garden and the park lie the ,farm and the ,laiterie de la ,reine1 the caprice of ,louis ,,xvi when he would content ,marie ,antoinette and give her something to think about besides her troubles4 ,napoleon stripped it of its furnishings to install them1 for a great part1 at ,malmaison1 for that other unhappy woman--,josephine4 ,later1 to give pleasure to ,marie ,louise1 he ordered them brought back again to ,rambouillet1 but it was to ,napoleon ,,iii that the restoration of this charming conceit was due4 ,in the neighbourhood of ,rambouillet was the famous ,chateau de ,chasse1 or royal shooting-box1 which ,louis ,,xv was fond of making a place of rendezvous4 ,on the banks of the ,etang de ,pourras stood this ,chateau de ,saint ,hubert1 named for the patron saint of huntsmen1 and within its walls was passed many a happy evening by king and courtiers after a busy day with stag and hound4 ,the hunt in ,france was perhaps at the most picturesque phase of its existence at this time4 ,the hunt of to-day is but a pale1 though bloody1 imitation of the real sport of the days when monarchs and their seigneurs in slashed doublet and hose and velvet cloaks pursued the deer of the forest to his death1 and knew not the maitre d'equipage of to-day4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,chantilly ,chantilly1 because of its royal associations1 properly finds its place in every traveller's ,french itinerary4 ,not only did ,chantilly come to its great glory through royal favour1 but in later years the ,french government has taken it under its wing1 the chateau1 the stables and the vast park and forest1 until the ensemble is to-day as much of a national show place as ,versailles or ,saint ,germain4 ,it is here in the marble halls1 where once dwelt the ,condes and the ,montmorencys1 that are held each year the examinations of the ,french ,academie des ,beaux ,arts4 ,and besides this it is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of tourists who1 as a class1 for a couple of generations previously1 never got farther away from the capital than ,saint ,cloud4 ,many charters of the tenth century make mention of the estates of ,chantilly1 which at that time belonged to the ,seigneurs of ,senlis4 ,the chateau was an evolution from a block-house1 or fortress1 erected by ,catulus in ,gallo-,roman times and four centuries later it remained practically of the same rank4 ,in the fourteenth century the chateau was chiefly a vast fortress surrounded by a water defence in the form of an enlarged moat by means of which it was able to resist the ,bourguignons and never actually fell until after the taking of ,meaux by the ,english king1 ,henry ,v4 ,illustration3 ,,chantilly ,jean ,,ii de ,montmorency1 by his marriage with ,marguerite d',orgemont1 came to be the possessor of the domain1 their son1 in turn1 becoming the heir4 ,it was this son1 ,guillaume1 who became one of the most brilliant servitors of the monarchs ,louis ,,xi1 ,louis ,,xii1 and ,francis ,i1 and it was through these friends at court that ,chantilly first took on its regal aspect4 ,in turn the celebrated ,anne de ,montmorency1 ,connetable de ,france1 came into the succession and finding the old fortress1 albeit somewhat enlarged and furbished up by his predecessor1 less of a palatial residence than he would have1 separated the ancient chateau-fort from an added structure by an ornamental moat1 or canal1 and laid out the pelouse1 parterres and the alleys of greensward leading to the forest which make one of the great charms of ,chantilly to-day4 ,here resided1 as visitors to be sure1 but for more or less extended periods1 and at various times1 ,charles ,v1 ,charles ,,ix and ,henri ,,iv1 each of them guests of the hospitable and ambitious ,montmorencys4 ,illustration3 ,statue of ,le ,notre1 ,chantilly ,chantilly passed in #afcb to ,charlotte1 the sister of the last ,marechal de ,montmorency1 the wife of ,henri ,,ii1 ,prince de ,conde1 the mother of the ,grand ,conde1 the ,prince de ,conti and the ,duchesse de ,longueville4 ,with the ,grand ,conde came the greatest fame1 the apotheosis1 of ,chantilly4 ,this noble was so enamoured of this admirable residence that he never left it from his thoughts and decorated it throughout in the most lavish taste of his time1 destroying at this epoch the chateau of the moyen-age and the fortress4 ,these were the days of gallant warriors with a taste for pretty things in art1 not mere bloodthirsty slaughterers4 ,on the foundations of the older structures there now rose an admirable pile 7not that which one sees to-day1 however71 embellished by the surroundings which were evolved from the brain of the landscape gardener1 ,le ,notre4 ,the ,revolution made way with this lavish structure and with the exception of the ,chatelet1 or the ,petit ,chateau 7designed by ,jean ,bullant in #aefj1 and remodelled within by ,mansart7 the present-day work is a creation of the ,duc d',aumale1 the heir to the ,condes' name and fame1 to whom the ,national ,assembly gave back his ancestral estates which had in the meantime come into the inventory of royal belongings through the claims established by the might of the ,second ,empire4 ,back to the days of the ,grand ,conde one reads of an extended visit made by ,louis ,,xiv to his principal courtier4 ,it was at an expense of two hundred thousand ecus that the welcoming fete was accomplished4 ,madame de ,sevigne has recounted the event more graphically than any other chronicler1 and it would be presumption to review it here at length4 ,the incident of ,vatel alone has become classic4 ,to the coterie of poets at ,rambouillet must be added those of ,chantilly2 their sojourn here added much of moment to the careers and reputations of ,boileau1 ,racine1 ,bourdaloue and ,bossuet4 ,it was the latter1 who1 in the funeral oration which he delivered on the death of the ,prince de ,conde1 said3 ,here under his own roof one saw the ,grand ,conde as if he were at the head of his armies1 a noble always great1 as well in action as in repose4 ,here you have seen him surrounded by his friends in this magnificent dwelling1 in the shady alleys of the forest or beside the purling waters of the brooks which are silent neither day nor night4 ,the ,grand ,conde died1 however1 at ,fontainebleau4 ,the heir1 ,henri-,jules de ,bourbon1 did his share towards keeping up and embellishing the property1 and to him was due that charming wildwood retreat known as the ,parc de ,sylvie4 ,louis-,henri de ,bourbon1 ,minister of ,louis ,,xv at the commencement of his reign1 had gained a fabulous sum of money in the notorious ,law's ,bank affair1 and1 with a profligate and prodigal taste in spending1 lived a life of the grandest of grand seigneurs at ,chantilly1 to which1 as his donation to its architectural importance1 he contributed the famous ,ecuries1 or stables4 ,to show that he was persona grata at court he gave a great fete here for ,louis ,,xv and the ,duchesse du ,barry4 ,the last ,prince de ,conde but one before the ,revolution built the ,chateau d',enghien in the neighbourhood1 and sought to people the ,parc de ,sylvie with a rustic colony of thatched maisonettes and install his favourites therein in a weak imitation of what had been done in the ,petit ,trianon4 ,the note was manifestly a false one and did not endure1 not even is its echo plainly audible for all is hearsay to-day and no very definite record of the circumstance exists4 ,chantilly in later times has been a favourite abode with modern monarchs4 ,the ,king of ,denmark1 the ,emperor ,joseph ,,ii and the ,king of ,sweden were given hospitality here1 and much money was spent for their entertainment1 and much red and green fire burned for their amusement and that of their suites4 ,the ,revolution's fell blow carried off the principal parts of the ,conde's admirable constructions and it is fortunate that the ,petit ,chateau escaped the talons of the ,bande ,noire4 ,immediately afterwards the ,chateau d',enghien and the ,ecuries were turned over to the uses of the ,minister of ,war1 and the authorities of the ,jardin des ,plantes were given permission to transplant and transport anything which pleased their fancy among the exotics which had been set out by ,le ,notre in ,chantilly's famous parterres4 ,under the imperial regime the ,foret de ,chantilly was given in fee simple to ,queen ,hortense1 though all was ultimately returned to the ,conde heirs after the ,restoration4 ,it was at this period that ,chantilly received the visit of ,alexander1 ,emperor of ,russia1 and the historian's account of that visit makes prominent the fact that during the periods of rain it was necessary that an umbrella be carried over the imperial head as he passed through the corridors of the palace from one apartment to another4 ,the host of the emperor died here in #ahah and his son1 spending perhaps half of his time here1 cared little for restoration and spent all his waking hours hunting in the forest1 returning to the ,petit ,chateau only to eat and sleep4 ,the ,duc de ,bourbon added to the flanking wings of the ,petit ,chateau and cleaned up the debris which was fast becoming moss-grown1 weed encumbered and altogether disgraceful4 ,the moats were cleaned out of their miasmatic growth and certain of the grass-carpeted parterres resown and given a semblance of their former selves4 ,some days after the ,revolution of #ahcj the ,prince de ,conde died in a most dramatic fashion1 and his son1 the ,duc d',enghien1 having been shot at ,vincennes under the ,empire1 he willed the ,duc d',aumale and his issue his legal descendants forever4 ,towards #ahdj the ,duc d',aumale sought to reconstruct the splendours of ,chantilly1 but a decree of ,january #bb1 #aheb1 banished the entire ,orleans family and interrupted the work when the property was sold to the ,english bankers1 ,coutts and ,company1 for the good round sum of eleven million francs1 not by any means an extravagant price for this estate of royal aspect and proportions4 ,the ,national ,assembly of #ahgb did the only thing it could do in justice to tradition--bought the property in and decreed that it be restored to its legitimate proprietor4 ,it was as late as #ahgf that the ,duc d',aumale undertook the restoration of the ,chatelet and the rebuilding of the new chateau which is seen to-day4 ,the latter is from the designs of ,henri ,daumet1 member of the ,institut de ,france4 ,in general the structure of to-day occupies the site of the moyen-age chateau but is of quite a different aspect4 ,the ,duc d',aumale made a present of the chateau and all that was contained therein to the ,institut de ,france4 ,from a purely sordid point of view it was a gift valued at something like thirty-five million francs1 not so great as many new-world public legacies of to-day1 but in certain respects of a great deal more artistic worth4 ,the mass is manifestly imposing1 made up as it is1 of four distinct parts1 the ,eglise1 dating from #afib1 the ,ecuries1 the ,chatelet--or ,petit ,chateau1 and the ,chateau proper--the modern edifice4 ,before the celebrated ,ecuries is a green1 velvety pelouse which gives an admirable approach4 ,the architecture of the ,ecuries is of a heavy order and the sculptured decorations actually of little esthetic worth1 representing as they do hunting trophies and the like4 ,before the great fountain one deciphers a graven plaque which reads as follows3 ,louis ,henri de ,bourbon ,prince de ,conde ,fut ,construire ,cette ,ecurie #agja-aghd4 ,within the two wings may be stabled nearly two hundred horses4 ,the ,grand ,ecuries at ,chantilly are assuredly one of the finest examples extant of that luxuriant art of the eighteenth century ,french builder4 ,luxurious1 excessively ornate and overpowering it is1 and1 for that reason1 open to question4 ,the work of the period knew not the discreet middle road4 ,it was of ,chantilly that it was said that the live stock was better lodged than its masters4 ,the architect of this portion of the chateau was ,jean ,aubert1 one of the collaborators of ,jules ,hardouin ,mansart4 ,the characteristics of ,chantilly1 take it as a whole1 the chateau1 the park and the forest1 are chiefly theatrical1 but with an all-abiding regard for the proprieties1 for beyond a certain heaviness of architectural style in parts of the chateau everything is of the finely focussed relative order of which the ,french architect and landscape gardener have for ages been past masters4 ,the real ,french garden is here to be seen almost at its best1 its squares and ovals of grassy green apportioned off from the mass by gravelled walks and ornamented waters4 ,the tapis d'orient effect1 so frequently quoted by the ,french in writing of such works1 is hardly excelled elsewhere4 ,all this shocked the mid-eighteenth century ,english traveller1 but it was because he did not1 perhaps could not1 understand4 ,rigby1 the ,norwich alderman as the ,french rather contemptuously referred to this fine old ,english gentleman1 said frankly of ,chantilly3 ,all this has cost dear and produced a result far from pleasing4 ,he would have been better pleased doubtless with a privet or box hedge and an imitation plaster rockery1 things which have never agreed with ,french taste1 but which were the rule in pretentious ,english gardens of the same period4 ,rigby must indeed have been a grincheau1 as the ,french called him1 for this same up-country gentleman said of ,versailles3 ,lovely surrounding country but palace and park badly designed4 ,versailles is not that1 whatever else its faults may be4 ,chantilly is more than a palace1 it is a museum of nature1 a hermitage of art and of history4 ,the fantasy of its tourelles1 its lucarnes and its pignons are something one may hardly see elsewhere in such profusion1 and the fact that they are modern is forgotten in the impression of the general silhouette4 ,the adventurer who first built a donjon on the ,rocher de ,chantilly little knew with what seigneurial splendour the site was ultimately to be graced4 ,from a bare outpost it was transformed1 as if by magic1 into a ,renaissance palace of a supreme beauty4 ,the ,duc d',aumale said in his ,acte de ,donation de ,chantilly3 ,it stands complete and varied1 a monument of ,french art in all its branches1 a history of the best epochs of our glory4 ,among all the palatial riches neighbouring upon ,paris1 not forgetting ,versailles1 ,compiegne1 ,fontainebleau1 ,pierrefonds and ,rambouillet1 ,chantilly1 by the remarkable splendour of its surroundings1 its situation and the artistic treasures which it possesses1 is in a class by itself4 ,it is a class more clearly defined by the historic souvenirs which surround it than any other contemporary structure of this part of ,france4 ,its corridors and gravelled walks and the long alleys of the park and forest may not take on the fete-like aspect which they knew in the eighteenth century1 but they are not solitary like those of ,fontainebleau and ,rambouillet1 nor noisily overrun like those of ,versailles or ,saint ,germain4 ,the ornamental waters which surround the ,chateau de ,chantilly are of a grand and nearly unique beauty4 ,it is a question if they are not finer than the waters of ,versailles1 indeed they preceded them and may even have inspired them4 ,the ,chatelet1 the chateau proper and the chapel form a group quite distinct from the ,ecuries4 ,the ,cour d',honneur is really splendid and one hardly realizes the juxtaposition of modernity4 ,the pavilion attributed to ,jean ,bullant1 the western facade1 the ancient ,petit ,chateau1 the ,grand ,vestibule1 the ,grand ,escalier and the ,gallerie des ,cerfs and a dozen other apartments are of a rare and imposing beauty1 though losing somewhat their distinctive aspect by reason of the objets de musee distributed about their walls and floors4 ,one of the landscape gems of ,chantilly is the ,pelouse1 a vast esplanade of greensward now forming1 in part1 the celebrated race track of ,chantilly4 ,sport ever formed a part of the outdoor program at ,chantilly1 but that of to-day is just a bit more horsey than that of old1 a good deal less picturesque and assuredly more vulgarly banal as to its cachet than the hunts1 the tourneys and courses of the romantic age4 ,illustration3 ,chateau de ,chantilly ,thousands come to ,chantilly to wager their coin on scrubs and dark horses ridden by third-rate warned-off jockeys from other lands1 but probably not ten in ten thousand of the lookers on at the ,grand ,prix du ,jockey ,club in ,may ever make the occasion of the spring meeting an opportunity for visiting the fine old historic monument of the ,condes4 ,the ,races of ,chantilly may be given a further word in that they are an outgrowth of a foundation by the ,duc d',orleans in #ahcb4 ,the track forms a circuit of two thousand metres1 and occupies quite the best half of the ,pelouse1 closed in on one side by the thick-grown ,foret de ,chantilly and flanked1 in part1 on the other by the historic ,ecuries1 with the ,tribune1 or grand stand1 just to the south4 ,many tourists arrive at ,chantilly by auto1 stop brusquely before the ,grande ,grille1 rush through the galleries of the chateau1 do cent pas in the park1 give a cursory glance at the stables and are off2 but more1 many more1 with slower steps and saner minds1 drink in the charms which are offered on all sides and consider the time well spent even if they have paid ,boulevard ,prices at the ,restaurant du ,grand ,conde for their dejeuner4 ,it has been said that a museum is a reunion of objets d'art brought about by a methodical grouping1 either chronologically or categorically4 ,the ,duc d',aumale's ,musee de ,chantilly is more an expression of personal taste4 ,he collected what he wished and he arranged his collections as suited his fancy4 ,the famous ,musee de ,chantilly1 which is the lodestone which draws most folk thither1 so admirably housed1 was a gift of the ,duc d',aumale who1 for the glory of his ancestors1 and the admiration of the world1 to say nothing of his own personal satisfaction1 here gathered together an eclectic collection of curious and artistic treasures1 certainly not the least interesting or valuable among the great public collections in ,france4 ,the effect produced is sometimes startling1 a ,messonier is cheek by jowl with a ,baron ,gros1 a ,decamps vis a vis to a ,veronese1 and a ,lancret is bolstered on either hand by a ,poussin and a ,nattier4 ,amid all this disorder there is1 however1 an undeniable1 inexplicable charm4 ,there are three distinct apartments worth1 more than all the others1 the glance of the hurried visitor to the ,musee ,conde at ,chantilly4 ,in the first1 the ,santuario1 is the ,livre d',heures of ,etienne ,chevalier1 by ,jean ,fouquet1 considered as the most important relic of primitive ,french art extant4 ,the ,cabinet des ,gemmes comes second1 and here is the celebrated ,diamant ,rose1 called the ,grand ,conde4 ,finally there is the ,galerie de ,psyche1 with forty-four coloured glass windows1 executed for the ,connetable de ,montmorency in #aeda-aedb4 ,the great collection of historical and artistic treasures stowed away within the walls of ,chantilly the ,duc d',aumale selected himself in order to associate his own name with the glorious memory of the ,condes1 who were so intimately connected with the chateau4 ,the ,duc sought to recover such of the former furnishings of the chateau as had been dissipated during the ,revolution whenever they could be heard of and could be had at public or private sale4 ,in this connection a word on ,chantilly lace may not be found inapropos4 ,the ,chantilly lace of to-day1 it is well to recall1 is a mechanically produced article of commerce1 turned out by the running mile from ,nottingham1 ,england1 though in the days when ,chantilly's porcelains rivalled those of ,sevres it was purely a local product4 ,one may well argue therefore that the bulk of the ,chantilly lace sold in the shops of ,chantilly to-day is not on a par with the admirable examples to be seen in the glass cases of the museum4 ,a wooded alley leading to the great park runs between the main edifice and the ,chateau d',enghien1 a gentle incline descending again to the sunken gardens in a monumental stairway of easy slope1 the whole a quintessence of much that is best of the art of the landscape gardener of the time4 ,to the left extends the vast ,jardin ,anglais--a veritable ,french ,jardin ,anglais4 ,let not one overlook the distinction3 ,on conventional lines it is pretty1 dainty and pleasing1 but the species lacks the dignified formality of the ,italian garden or the ingenious arrangement of the ,french4 ,its curves and ovals and circles are annoying after the lignes droites and the right angles and the broderies of the ,french variety4 ,the ,foret de ,chantilly covers two thousand four hundred and forty-nine hectares and extends from the ,bois de ,herivaux on one side to the ,foret de ,senlis on the other4 ,the rendezvous-de-chasse was1 in the old days1 and is to-day on rare occasions1 at the ,rond ,point1 to which a dozen magnificent forest roads lead from all directions1 that from the town being paved with ,belgian blocks1 the dread of automobilists1 but delightful to ride over in muddy weather4 ,the ,route de ,connetable1 so called1 is well-nigh ideal of its kind4 ,it launches forth opposite the chateau and at its entrance are two flanking stone lions4 ,it is of a soft soil suitable for horseback riding1 but entirely unsuited for wheeled traffic of any kind4 ,another of the great forest roads leads to the ,chateau de la ,reine ,blanche1 a diminutive edifice in the pointed style1 with a pair of svelte towers coiffed candle-snuffer fashion4 ,tradition1 and very ancient and somewhat dubious tradition1 attributes the edifice as having belonged to ,blanche de ,navarre1 the wife of ,philippe de ,valois4 ,again it is thought to have been a sort of royal attachment to the ,abbaye de ,royaumont1 built near by1 by ,saint ,louis4 ,this quaintly charming manor of minute dimensions was a tangible1 habitable abode in #accc1 but for generations after appears to have fallen into desuetude4 ,a mill grew up on the site1 and again the walls of a chateau obliterated the more mundane1 work-a-day mill4 ,the ,duc de ,bourbon restored the whole place in #ahbf that it might serve him and his noble friends as a hunting-lodge4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,compiegne ,,and ,,its ,,forest ,one of the most talked of and the least visited of the minor ,french palaces is that of ,compiegne4 ,the archeologists coming to ,compiegne first notice that all its churches are malorientees4 ,it is a minor point with most folk1 but when one notes that its five churches have their high altars turned to all points of the compass1 instead of to the east1 it is assuredly a fact to be noticed1 even if one is more romantically inclined than devout4 ,through and through1 ,compiegne1 its palace1 its hotel-de-ville1 its forest1 is delightful4 ,old and new huddle close together1 and the art nouveau decorations of a branch of a great ,parisian department store flank a butcher's stall which looks as though it might have come down from the times when all trading was done in the open air4 ,compiegne's origin goes back to the antique4 ,it was originally ,compendium1 a ,roman station situated on the highway between ,soissons and ,beauvais4 ,a square tower1 ,caesar's ,tower1 gave a military aspect to the walled and fortified station1 and evidences are not wanting to-day to suggest with what strength its fortifications were endowed4 ,illustration3 ,compiegne ,it was here that the first ,frankish kings built their dwelling1 and here that ,pepin-le-,bref received the gracious gift of an organ from the ,emperor ,constantine1 and here1 in #hcc1 that an assembly of bishops and nobles deposed ,louis-le-,debonnaire4 ,charles-le-,chauve received ,pope ,jean ,,viii in great pomp in the palace at ,compiegne1 and it was this ,pope who gave absolution to ,louis-le-,begue1 who died here but a year after1 #hgi4 ,the last of the ,carlovingians1 ,louis ,v 7le-,faineant71 died also at ,compiegne in #ihg4 ,the city is thus shown to have been a favourite place of sojourn for the kings of the ,franks1 and those of the first and second races4 ,as was but obvious many churchly councils were held here1 fourteen were recorded in five centuries1 but none of great ecclesiastical or civil purport4 ,the city first got its charter in #aaec1 but the ,merovingian city having fallen into a sort of galloping decay ,saint ,louis gave it to the ,dominicans in #abfj1 who here founded1 by the orders of the king1 a ,hotel ,dieu which1 in part1 is the same edifice which performs its original functions to-day4 ,the first great love of ,compiegne was expressed by ,charles ,v1 who rebuilt the palace of ,charles-le-,chauve in a manner which was far from making it a monumental or artistically disposed edifice4 ,it was originally called the ,louvre1 from the ,latin word opus 7l'oeuvre71 a word which was applied to all the chateaux-forts of these parts4 ,the same monarch did better with the country-houses which he afterwards built at ,saint ,germain and ,vincennes2 perhaps by this time he had grown wise in his dealings with architects4 ,like all the little towns of the ,valois1 ,compiegne abounds in souvenirs of the ,guerre de ,cent ,ans1 ,jeanne d',arc1 ,louis ,,xiv1 ,louis ,,xv1 ,napoleon ,i and ,napoleon ,,iii1 and as its monuments attest this glory1 so its forest1 one of the finest in ,france1 awakens almost as many historical memories4 ,wars and rumors of war kept ,compiegne in a turmoil for centuries1 but the most theatrical episode was the famous sortie made by ,jeanne d',arc when she was attempting to defend the city against the combined ,english and ,burgundian troops4 ,it was an episode in which faint heart1 perhaps treason1 played an unwelcome part1 for while the gallant maid was taking all manner of chances outside the gates the military governor1 ,guillaume de ,flavy1 ordered the barriers of the great portal closed behind her and her men4 ,near the end of the ,pont de ,saint ,louis ,jeanne d',arc fell into the hands of the besiegers4 ,an archer from ,picardy captured her single handed1 and1 for a round sum in silver or in kind1 turned her over to her torturer1 ,jean de ,luxembourg4 ,a statue of the maid is found on the public ,place1 and the ,tour ,jeanne d',arc1 a great circular donjon of the thirteenth century1 is near by4 ,another souvenir is to be found in the ancient ,hotel de ,boeuf1 at ,no4 #i ,rue de ,paris1 where the maid lodged from the eighteenth to the twenty-third of ,august1 #adbi1 awaiting the entry of ,charles ,,vii4 ,with the era of ,francis ,i that gallant and fastidious monarch came to take up his residence at ,compiegne4 ,he here received his friend and enemy1 ,charles ,v1 but strangely enough there is no monument in ,compiegne to-day which is intimately associated with the stay here of the art-loving ,francis4 ,he preferred1 after all1 his royal manor at ,villers-,cotterets near by4 ,there was more privacy there1 and it formed an admirable retreat for such moments when the king did not wish to bask in publicity1 and these moments were many1 though one might not at first think so when reading of his affairs of state4 ,there were also affairs of the heart which1 to him1 in many instances1 were quite as important4 ,this should not be forgotten4 ,in #afbd a treaty was signed at ,compiegne which assured the alliance of ,louis ,,xiii with the ,united ,provinces1 and during this reign the court was frequently in residence here4 ,in #afca ,marie de ,medici1 then a prisoner in the palace1 made a notable escape and fled1 doomed ever afterwards to a vagabond existence1 a terrible fall for her once proud glory1 to her death in a ,cologne garret ten years later4 ,in #afce the ,grand ,chancellor of ,sweden signed a treaty here which enabled ,france to mingle in the affairs of the ,thirty ,years' ,war4 ,during the ,fronde1 that ,woman's ,war1 which was so entirely unnecessary1 ,anne d',autriche held her court in the ,palace of ,compiegne and received ,christine de ,suede on certain occasions when that royal lady's costume was of such a grotesque nature1 and her speech so chevaleresque1 that she caused even a scandal in a profligate court4 ,anne d',autriche1 too1 left ,compiegne practically a prisoner2 another menage a trois had been broken up4 ,the most imposing event in the history of ,compiegne of which the chronicles tell was the assembling of sixty thousand men beneath the walls by ,louis ,,xiv1 in order to give ,madame de ,maintenon a realistic exhibition of playing soldiers4 ,at all events the demonstration was a bloodless one1 and an immortal page in ,saint-,simon's ,memoires consecrates this gallantry of a king in a most subtle manner4 ,another fair lady1 a royal favourite1 too1 came on the scene at ,compiegne in #agfi when ,madame du ,barry was the principal artiste in the great fete given in her honour by ,louis ,,xv4 ,she was lodged in a tiny chateau 7built originally for ,madame de ,pompadour7 a short way out of town on the ,soissons road4 ,du ,barry must have been a good fairy to ,compiegne for ,louis ,,xv lavished an abounding care on the chateau and1 rather than allow the architect1 ,jacques ,ange ,gabriel1 have the free hand that his counsellors advised1 sought to have the ancient outlines of the former structure on the site preserved and thus present to posterity through the newer work the two monumental facades which are to be seen to-day4 ,the effort was not wholly successful1 for the architect actually did carry out his fancy with respect to the decoration in the same manner in which he had designed the ,ecole ,militaire at ,paris and the two colonnaded edifices facing upon the ,place de la ,concorde4 ,this work was entirely achieved when ,louis ,,xvi took possession4 ,this monarch1 in #aghj1 caused to be fitted up a most elaborate apartment for the queen 7his marriage with ,marie ,antoinette was consecrated here71 but that indeed was all the hand he had in the work of building at ,compiegne1 which has practically endured as his predecessor left it4 ,the ,revolution and ,consulate used the chateau as their fancy willed1 and rather harshly1 but in #ahjf its restoration was begun and ,charles ,,iv of ,spain1 upon his dethronement by ,napoleon1 was installed therein a couple of years later4 ,the palace1 the park and the forest now became a sort of royal appanage of this ,spanish monarch1 which ,napoleon1 in a generous spirit1 could well afford to will him4 ,he lived here some months and then left precipitately for ,marseilles4 ,napoleon affected a certain regard for this palatial property1 though only occupying it at odd moments4 ,he embellished its surroundings1 above all its gardens1 in a most lavish manner4 ,virtually1 all things considered1 ,compiegne is a ,palais ,napoleonien1 and if one would study the style of the ,empire at its best the thing may be done at ,compiegne4 ,on ,july #cj1 #ahad1 ,louis ,,xviii and ,alexander of ,russia met at ,compiegne amid a throng of ,paris notabilities who had come thither for the occasion4 ,charles ,x loved to hunt in the forest of ,compiegne4 ,in #ahcb1 one of the daughters of ,louis-,philippe1 the ,princesse ,louise1 was married to the ,king of the ,belgians in this palace4 ,from #aheb to #ahgj the palace and its grounds were the scenes of many imperial fetes4 ,napoleon ,,iii had for ,compiegne a particular predilection4 ,the prince-president1 in #aheb1 installed himself here for the autumn season1 and among his guests was that exquisite blond beauty1 ,eugenie ,montijo1 who1 the year after1 was to become the empress of the ,french4 ,faithful to the memory of his uncle1 by reason of a romantic sentiment1 the ,third ,napoleon came frequently to ,compiegne2 or perhaps it was because of the near-by hunt1 for he was a passionate disciple of ,saint ,hubert4 ,it was his ,versailles6 ,the palace of ,compiegne as seen to-day presents all the classic coldness of construction of the reign of ,louis ,,xv4 ,its lines were severe and that the building was inspired by a genius is hard to believe1 though in general it is undeniably impressive4 ,frankly1 it is a mocking1 decadent eighteenth century architecture that presents itself1 but of such vast proportions that one sets it down as something grand if not actually of surpassing good taste4 ,in general the architecture of the palace presents at first glance a coherent unit1 though in reality it is of several epochs4 ,its furnishings within are of different styles and periods1 not all of them of the best4 ,slender gold chairs1 false reproductions of those of the time of ,louis ,,xv1 and some deplorable tapestries huddle close upon elegant bergeres of ,louis ,,xvi1 and sofas1 tables and bronzes of master artists and craftsmen are mingled with cheap castings unworthy of a stage setting in a music hall4 ,a process of adroit eviction will some day be necessary to bring these furnishings up to a consistent plane of excellence4 ,one of the facades is nearly six hundred feet in length1 with forty-nine windows stretching out in a single range4 ,it might be the front of an automobile factory if it were less ornate1 or that of an exposition building were it more beautiful4 ,in some respects it is reminiscent of the ,palais ,royal at ,paris1 particularly as to the entrance colonnade and gallery facing the ,louvre4 ,the chief beauty within is undoubtedly the magnificent stairway1 with its balustrade of wrought iron of the period of ,louis ,,xvi4 ,the ,salle de ,spectacle is of a certain ,third ,empire-,louis ,napoleon distinction1 which is saying that it is neither very lovely nor particularly plain1 simply ordinary1 or1 to give it a ,french turn of phrase1 vulgar4 ,one of the most remarkable apartments is the ,salle des ,cartes1 the old salon of the ,aides de ,camp1 whose walls are ornamented with three great plans showing the roads and by-paths of the forest1 and other decorative panels representing the hunt of the time of ,louis ,,xv4 ,the ,chambre a ,coucher of the great ,napoleon is perhaps the most interesting of all the smaller apartments1 with its strange bed1 which in form more nearly resembles an oriental divan than anything ,european4 ,doubtless it is not uncomfortable as a bed1 but it looks more like a tent1 or camp1 in the open1 than anything essentially intended for domestic use within doors4 ,after the great ,napoleon1 his nephew ,napoleon ,,iii was its most notable occupant1 though it was last slept in by the ,tzar ,nicholas ,,ii1 when he visited ,france in #aija4 ,the sleeping-room of the ,empress ,eugenie is fitted up after the style of the early ,empire with certain interpolations of the mid-nineteenth century4 ,the most distinct feature here is the battery of linen coffers which ,marie ,louise had had especially designed and built4 ,the ,salon des ,dames d',honneur1 with its double rank of nine scissors chairs1 the famous tabourets de cour1 lined up rigidly before the canape on which the empress rested1 is certainly a remarkable apartment4 ,this was the decor of convention that ,madame ,sans ,gene rendered classic4 ,illustration3 ,napoleon's ,bedchamber1 ,compiegne ,like all the ,french national palaces ,compiegne has a too abundant collection of ,sevres vases set about in awkward corners which could not otherwise be filled1 and1 beginning with the vestibule1 this thing is painfully apparent4 ,the apartments showing best the ,napoleonic style in decorations and furnishings are the ,salon des ,huissiers1 the ,salle des ,gardes1 the ,escalier d',apollon1 the ,salle de ,don ,quichotte--which contains a series of designs destined to have served for a series of tapestries intended to depict scenes in the life of the windmill knight--the ,galerie des ,fetes1 the ,galerie des ,cerfs1 the ,salle ,coypel1 the ,salle des ,stucs and the ,salon des ,fleurs1 through which latter one approaches the royal apartments4 ,in the sixteenth century1 or1 more exactly1 between #aejb and #aeaj1 was constructed ,compiegne's handsome ,hotel de ,ville1 one of the most delightful architectural mixtures of ,gothic and ,renaissance extant4 ,it is an architectural monument of the same class as the ,palais de ,justice at ,rouen or the ,hotel ,cluny at ,paris4 ,its frontispiece is marvellous1 the rez-de-chaussee less gracious than the rest perhaps1 but with the first story blooming forth as a gem of magnificent proportions and setting4 ,between the four windows of this first story are posed statuesque effigies of ,charles ,,vii1 ,jeanne d',arc1 ,saint ,remy and ,louis ,,ix4 ,in the centre1 in a niche1 is an equestrian statue of ,louis ,,xii1 who reigned when this monument was being built4 ,a balustrade a jour finishes off this story1 which1 in turn1 is overhung with a high1 peaked gable1 and above rise the belfry and its spire1 of which the great clock dates from #acjc1 though only put into place in #aecf4 ,the only false note is sounded by the two insignificant1 cold and unlovely wings which flank the main structure on either side4 ,it is a sixteenth century construction unrivalled of its kind in all ,france1 more like a ,belgian town-hall belfry than anything elsewhere to be seen outside ,flanders1 but it is not of the low ,spanish-,renaissance order as are so many of the imposing edifices of occidental and oriental ,flanders4 ,it is a blend of ,gothic and ,renaissance1 and1 what is still more rare1 the best of ,gothic and the best of ,renaissance4 ,above its facade is a civic belfry1 flanked by two slender towers4 ,within the portal-vestibule rises a monumental stairway which must have been the inspiration of many a builder of modern opera-houses4 ,opposite the ,hotel ,dieu is the poor1 rent relic of the ,tour de ,jeanne d',arc1 originally a cylindrical donjon of the twelfth century1 wherein ,la ,pucelle was imprisoned in #adcj4 ,between the palace and the river are to be seen many vestiges of the mediaeval ramparts of the town1 and here and there a well-defined base of a gateway or tower4 ,mediaevalism is rampant throughout ,compiegne4 ,the park surrounding the palace is quite distinct from the wider radius of the ,foret de ,compiegne4 ,it is of the secular1 conventional order1 and its perspectives1 looking towards the forest from the terrace and vice versa1 are in all ways satisfying to the eye4 ,one of the most striking of these alleyed vistas was laid out under the orders of the first ,napoleon in #ahaj4 ,it loses itself in infinity1 almost1 its horizon blending with that of the far distant ,beaux ,monts in the heart of the forest4 ,in the immediate neighbourhood of the palace are innumerable statues1 none of great beauty1 value or distinction4 ,on the south side runs a ,cours1 or ,prado1 as it would be called in ,catalonia4 ,the word ,cours is of ,provencal origin1 and how it ever came to be transplanted here is a mystery4 ,still here it is1 a great tree-shaded promenade running to the river4 ,the climate of ,compiegne is never so blazing hot as to make this ,cours so highly appreciated as its namesakes in the ,midi1 but as an exotic accessory to the park it is quite a unique delight4 ,within the park may still be traced the outlines of the moat which surrounded the palace of ,charles ,v1 as well as some scanty remains of the same period4 ,another distinctive feature is the famous ,berceau en ,fer1 an iron trellis several thousands of feet in length1 which was built by ,napoleon ,i as a reminder to ,marie ,louise of a similar1 but smaller1 garden accessory which she had known at ,schoenbrunn4 ,it was a caprice1 if you like1 and rather a futile one since it was before the time when artistically worthless things were the rage just because of their gigantic proportions4 ,napoleon ,,iii cut it down in part1 and pruned it to more esthetic proportions1 and what there is left1 vine and flower grown1 is really charming4 ,the ,foret de ,compiegne as a historic wildwood goes back to the ,druids who practiced their mysterious rites under its antique shade centuries before the coming of the kings1 who later called it their own special hunting preserve4 ,stone hatchets1 not unlike the tomahawks of the red man1 have been found and traced back--well1 definitely to the ,stone ,age1 and supposedly to the time when they served the ,druids for their sacrifices4 ,illustration3 ,cours de ,compiegne ,the soldiers of ,caesar came later and their axes were of iron or copper1 and though on the warpath1 too1 their way was one which was supposed to lead civilization into the wilderness4 ,innumerable traces of the ,roman occupation are to be found in the forest by those who know how to read the signs2 twenty-five different localities have been marked down by the archeologists as having been stations on the path blazed by the ,legions of ,rome4 ,after the ,romans came the first of the kings as proprietors of the forest1 and in the moyen-age the monks1 the barons and the crown itself shared equally the rights of the forest4 ,legends of most weird purport are connected with various points scattered here and there throughout the forest1 as at the ,fosse ,dupuis and the ,table ,ronde1 where a sort of trial by fire was held by the barons whenever a seigneur among them had conspired against another4 ,ariosto1 gathering many of his legends from the works of the old ,french chroniclers1 did not disdain to make use of the ,foret de ,compiegne as a stage setting4 ,during the reign of ,clothaire the forest was known as the ,foret de ,cuise1 because of a royal palace hidden away among the ,druid oaks which bore the name of ,cotia1 or ,cusia4 ,until #acdf the palace existed in some form or other1 though shorn of royal dignities4 ,it was at this period that ,philippe ,,vi divided the forests of the ,valois into three distinct parts in order to better regulate their exploitation4 ,the ,frankish kings being1 it would seem1 inordinately fond of la chasse the ,foret de ,compiegne1 in the spring and autumn1 became their favorite rendezvous4 ,alcuin1 the historian1 noted this fact in the eighth century1 and described this earliest of royal hunts in some detail4 ,in #gae the forest was the witness of a great battle between the ,austrasians and the ,neustrians4 ,before ,francis ,i with his habitual initiative had pierced the eight great forest roads which come together at the octagon called the ,puits du ,roi1 the forest was not crossed by any thoroughfare2 the nearest thing thereto was the ,chaussee de ,brunhaut1 a ,roman way which bounded it on the south and east4 ,louis ,,xiv and ,louis ,,xv1 in turn1 cut numerous roads and paths1 and to the latter were due the crossroads known as the ,grand ,octagone and the ,petit ,octagone4 ,it was over one of these great forest roads1 that leading to ,soissons1 that ,marie ,louise1 accompanied by a cortege of three hundred persons1 eighty conveyances and four hundred and fifty horses1 journeyed in a torrential rain1 in ,march #ahjg1 when she came to ,france to found a dynasty4 ,a marriage had been consummated by procuration at ,vienna1 and she set out to actually meet her future spouse for the first time at ,soissons4 ,at the little village of ,courcelles1 on the edge of the forest between ,soissons and ,compiegne1 two men enveloped in great protecting cloaks had arrived post-haste from ,compiegne4 ,at the parish church they stopped a moment and took shelter under the porch1 impatiently scanning the horizon4 ,finally a lumbering berlin de voyage lurched into view1 drawn by eight white horses4 ,in its depths were ensconced two women richly dressed1 one a beautiful woman of mature years1 the other a young girl scarce eighteen years4 ,the most agitated of the men1 he who was clad in a gray redingote1 sprang hastily to the carriage door4 ,he was introduced by the older woman as ,sa ,majeste l',empereur des ,francaises1 mon frere4 ,the speaker was one of the sisters of ,napoleon1 ,caroline1 ,queen of ,naples2 the other was the ,archduchess ,marie ,louise1 daughter of ,franz ,,ii1 ,emperor of ,austria4 ,an imposing ceremonial had been planned for ,soissons and the court had been ordered to set out from ,compiegne with the emperor1 in order to arrive at ,soissons in due time4 ,when the actual signal for the departure was given the emperor was nowhere to be found4 ,as usual he had anticipated things4 ,for weeks before the arrival of the empress to be ,napoleon had passed the majority of his waking hours at ,paris in the apartments which he had caused to be prepared for ,marie ,louise4 ,he selected the colour of the furnishings1 and superintended the very placing of the furniture4 ,among other things he had planned a boudoir which alone represented an expenditure of nearly half a million francs4 ,lejeune1 who had accompanied ,marechal ,berthier to ,vienna to arrange the marriage1 had returned and given his imperial master a glowing description of the charms of the young archduchess who was to be his bride4 ,the emperor compared his ideal with her effigy on medals and miniatures and then worked even more ardently than before that her apartments should be worthy of her when she arrived4 ,it was just following upon this fever of excitement that ,napoleon and the court had repaired to ,compiegne4 ,so restless was the emperor that he could hardly bide the time when the archduchess should arrive1 and it was thus that he set out with ,murat to meet the approaching cortege4 ,the pavilion which had been erected for the meeting was left to the citizens of the neighbourhood1 and the marvellous banquet which had been prepared by ,bausset was likewise abandoned4 ,napoleon had no time to think of dining4 ,all the roadside villages between ,soissons and ,compiegne were hung with banners1 and the populace appeared to be as highly excited as the contracting parties4 ,it still rained a deluge1 but this made no difference4 ,two couriers at full gallop came first to ,compiegne1 crying3 ,place3 ,place3 ,the eight white horses and the berlin de voyage followed4 ,before one had hardly time to realize what was passing1 ,napoleon and his bride whisked by in a twinkling4 ,at nine o'clock an outpost in the park at ,compiegne announced the arrival of the emperor and his train4 ,at ten o'clock a cannon shot rang out over the park and the emperor and empress passed into the chateau to proceed with certain indispensable presentations2 then to souper1 a petite souper intime1 we are assured4 ,on the morrow all the world of the assembled court met the empress and avowed that she had that specious beaute du diable which has ever pleased the ,french connoisseur of beautiful women4 ,they went further1 however1 and stated that in spite of this ravishing beauty she lacked the elegance which should be the possession of an empress of the ,french4 ,the faithful ,berthier silenced them with the obvious statement that since she pleased the emperor there was nothing more to be said1 or thought4 ,flying northward on the great highroad leading out from ,paris to ,chantilly and ,compiegne gadabout travellers have never a thought that just beyond ,pont ,saint ,maxence1 almost in plain view from the doorway of the ,inn of the ,lion d',argent of that sleepy little town1 is a gabled wall which represents all that remains of the ,maison de ,philippe de ,beaumanoir1 called the ,cour ,basse4 ,,the ,,end ,,index ,aiguillon1 ,duchesse d'1 #bag ,alcuin1 #ceh ,alexander1 ,emperor1 #bba1 #ccj1 #cdi ,alphonse ,,xiii of ,spain1 #g ,amboise1 #bf1 #bh1 #hf ,amboise1 ,bussy d'1 #gb ,ancre1 ,marechal d'1 #fg ,andelot1 ,coligny d'1 #gb-gc ,andilly1 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,comte de1 #gc ,chabrol1 #adg ,chalgrin1 #aed ,chambiges1 ,pierre1 #ia1 #bha-bhb ,chamblay1 #ed-ef ,chambord1 #ga1 #hf1 #caj ,chamillard1 ,michael1 #beb-bec ,champaigne1 ,philippe de1 #ace ,champollion-,figeac1 #ahd ,chantilly1 ,chateau and ,forest of1 #cbd-cdj1 #cfb ,chappell1 ,comte des1 #gb ,charenton1 #aeb ,charlemagne1 #ah1 #aaf1 #bha ,charles ,,ii1 #cdd ,charles ,v1 #bb1 #bc1 #be1 #fb-fc1 #ff1 #fh1 #gg1 #hb-hd1 #agj1 #aij1 #bdg1 #bha1 #cbg1 #cdd1 #cef ,charles ,,vi1 #fc1 #ff1 #fi1 #agf-agg1 #bbi ,charles ,,vii1 #fi1 #ahb1 #aij1 #cdf1 #ced ,charles ,,viii1 #ba1 #bii ,charles ,,ix1 #hi1 #ia-id1 #ajf1 #ajh-aaj1 #aga1 #bji1 #bia1 #cab1 #cbg ,charles ,x1 #eg1 #ajh1 #aah1 #adf1 #agc1 #aib1 #bjd1 #bab1 #bcg-bch1 #cjc1 #cag1 #cai-cbj1 #cdi ,charles ,,iv1 ,emperor1 #fc ,charles ,v1 ,emperor1 #he1 #hh1 #cdf ,charles ,i1 of ,england1 #ajd1 #acg1 #bhi ,charles the ,bold of ,burgundy 7see ,charolais1 ,comte de7 ,charolais1 ,comte de1 #agg-agh ,chartres1 ,ducs de 7see ,orleans1 ,ducs de7 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,baron1 #agc ,daumet1 ,henri1 #ccb ,debanes1 #bb ,debrosse1 ,jacques1 #fd1 #aed1 #aeh ,decamps1 #bjb1 #cch ,delille1 ,abbe1 #adc ,delorme1 ,marion1 #gc ,delorme1 ,philibert1 #cd1 #ajh-aaa1 #ahi ,denecourt1 #aih-aii1 #bja ,deputes1 ,chambre des 7see ,bourbon1 ,palais7 ,desmoulins1 ,camille1 #ade ,diaz1 #bjj ,directoire1 ,palais du 7see ,luxembourg1 ,palais du7 ,donon1 #ajj ,dorbay1 #aaj ,drouais1 #baa ,ducamp1 ,maxine1 #abf ,ducerceau1 #ib1 #id1 #aaj1 #aab ,ducrot1 ,general1 #bbb ,dugastz1 #bcb ,dupaira1 #ie ,duperac1 #aaj ,dupre1 #bjj ,durfort1 ,madame1 #di ,egalite1 ,palais 7see ,royal1 ,palais7 ,enghien1 ,chateau d'1 #cdj ,enghien1 ,duc d'1 #afi1 #agb-agd1 #cca ,epernon1 ,ducs d'1 #ajc1 #bcb ,erard1 ,sebastian1 #baj ,este1 ,maria d'1 #bij ,estival1 ,convent of1 #di ,estrees1 ,gabrielle d'1 #ajb1 #baj ,etampes1 ,duchesse d'1 #hf1 #ahe1 #aib1 #bid ,etoiles1 ,normand d'1 #bjd ,eugenie1 ,empress1 #abj-abb1 #abe-abf1 #bch1 #cej1 #ceb ,evans1 ,dr41 #abb ,fallieres1 ,president1 #aff-afg ,famin1 #cad-cae ,faure1 ,felix1 #ef1 #eh-ei ,feraud1 #aad ,ferrare1 ,duc de1 #gj ,flandre1 ,comte de1 #hb ,flavy1 ,guillaume de1 #cde ,fleury1 ,chateau de1 #aie ,fontaine1 #ii1 #abg ,fontainebleau1 ,forest of1 #f1 #ej1 #eb1 #aha1 #ahc1 #aif-bjb1 #bgi1 #bid ,fontainebleau1 ,palais de1 #b1 #bf1 #bh1 #cc1 #cd1 #hg1 #ia1 #aaa1 #ahj-aif1 #cbi1 #cce1 #ccf ,fouche1 #bba ,fould1 #ec ,fouquet1 ,jean1 #cci ,fouquet1 ,nicolas1 #bfi ,fragonard1 #baa ,francine1 ,thomas and ,alexandre1 #aif ,francis ,i1 #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #af1 #ba1 #cb1 #dd-de1 #fb1 #fd1 #fg1 #gg1 #gi1 #ha1 #hd-hi1 #ajh1 #aaj1 #agj1 #aha1 #ahc-ahg1 #ahi-aia1 #aid1 #bji1 #bbi1 #bha-bhb1 #bij1 #bib1 #bii1 #cjf1 #caj-caa1 #cba1 #cbf1 #cdf1 #ceh ,franz ,,ii1 #cei ,gabriel1 #bgf1 #cdh ,gaillon1 ,chateau de1 #cc ,ganne1 ,pere1 #bjj ,girardini1 #afj ,gisors1 ,castle of1 #hb ,gondi1 #bcj1 #bcb ,goujon1 ,jean1 #hi1 #ij ,grand ,trianon1 #ci1 #bdh1 #beh1 #bei1 #bfj1 #bfc1 #bfd1 #bgd-bgf ,gregory of ,tours1 #bae ,grevy1 ,jules1 #eh ,gros1 ,baron1 #cch ,grosbois1 ,chateau de1 #ea ,guilbert1 ,abbe1 #ahd ,guillain1 ,guillaume1 #bhb ,guise1 ,ducs de1 #gj1 #gb-gc1 #ajc ,hamon1 #bjj ,harlay-,crauvallon1 ,archbishop ,de1 #agh-agi ,haussmann1 ,baron1 #c1 #ac1 #aeb ,hebert1 #bja ,hennequin1 ,dame ,gillette1 #agh ,henri ,,ii1 #bf1 #cb1 #dd1 #fi-gj1 #gh1 #he1 #hg1 #hi1 #ij1 #ia1 #ajh1 #aaj1 #agj1 #aic1 #bbi1 #bcj1 #bhb1 #bid-bie1 #caa1 #cbg ,henri ,,iii1 #bi1 #ib-ic1 #aja1 #aji1 #bcj-bcb1 #cab ,henri ,,iv1 #af1 #bf1 #bg1 #bi1 #de-df1 #ga-gb1 #hg1 #hi1 #ib1 #id-ie1 #ajb-ajc1 #aaa-aab1 #aah1 #agb1 #ahf1 #aij1 #aia1 #aid-aig1 #bjf1 #bji1 #baj1 #bca1 #bcb1 #bch1 #bhb-bhc1 #cjf1 #cbg ,henrietta of ,england1 #bcc1 #bhi ,henriette de ,france1 #ajd1 #acg ,henry ,v of ,england1 #fc1 #cbf ,henry ,,vi of ,england1 #fc1 #fi ,henry ,,viii of ,england1 #caa ,herivaux1 ,bois de1 #cdj ,hohenzollern1 ,prince de1 #ec ,hortense1 ,queen1 #ccj ,hugo1 ,victor1 #gc ,hugues ,capet1 #fb ,institut1 ,palais de l'1 #aei-afj ,isabey 7,pere71 #dj ,jacob of ,cologne1 #hg ,jacque1 #bjj ,james ,,ii of ,england1 #bij ,jarnac1 ,gui ,chabot de1 #bid ,joachim1 ,prince1 #eb1 #ef ,john ,,ii of ,france1 #hc1 #agj ,john ,,viii1 ,pope1 #cdd ,joinville1 ,forest of1 #afi ,josephine1 ,empress1 #agd1 #bae1 #bag-bbb1 #cbc ,justice1 ,palais de 7see ,la ,cite1 ,palais de7 ,karr1 ,alphonse1 #adi ,la ,barauderie1 ,de1 #cj ,labaudy1 #ej ,la ,brosse1 #ajb ,la ,cite1 ,palais de1 #ab1 #fa-fh1 #ge1 #ha1 #hb1 #ic1 #aeb1 #aec1 #agj ,la ,chataigneraie1 #bid ,laffitte1 ,pierre1 #bab1 #bac1 #bdc ,lambesc1 ,prince de1 #add ,la ,muette1 ,chateau de1 #aaa1 #bjc1 #bji-baj ,lancret1 #cch ,langeais1 #cc ,lannes1 ,marechal1 #bac ,laporte1 #bhd ,la ,quintinye1 #bfg-bfi ,la ,reine ,blanche1 ,chateau de1 #cda ,laschant1 #bcb ,latini1 ,brunetto1 #bd ,lauzan1 #agh1 #bhi ,la ,valliere1 ,louise de1 #bhi ,lebrun1 ,charles1 #ig1 #bee1 #bef ,lebrun1 ,consul1 #aae ,le ,calabrese1 ,henri1 #bg ,lecouteux de ,canteleu1 #bag1 #bbb ,ledoux1 #baa1 #bdc ,lefuel1 #ajj ,lejeune1 #cfj ,leloir1 #bci 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