,,elements                              
,,of                          ,,plumbing
                             ,,by       
,,samuel ,,edward ,,dibble       ,,head 
,,of ,,sanitary ,,equipment ,,and       
,,installation ,,dept4                  
,,carnegie ,,institute ,,of ,,technology
                        ,,first         
,,edition                ,,mcgraw-,,hill
 ,,book ,,company1 ,,inc4               
#bci ,,west #ci,,th ,,street4 ,,new     
,,york              ,,london3 ,,hill    
,,publishing ,,co41 ,,ltd4              
#f  #h ,,bouverie ,,st41 ,e4 ,c4        
#aiah                     ,,copyright1  
#aiah1 ,,by ,,the                       
,,mcgraw-,,hill ,,book ,,company1 ,,inc4
                     ,,the ,,maple      
,,press ,,york ,,pa     ,,preface   ,in 
preparing this manuscript the author has
 had in mind the needs of young men     
having no technical instruction who are 
anxious to become proficient in the art 
of ,plumbing4 ,as a consequence each    
exercise is minutely described and      

illustrated2 so much so1 perhaps1 that  
an experienced mechanic may find it too 
simple for skilled hands and a mature   
mind4 ,but the beginner will not find   
the exercises too elaborately described 
and will profit by careful study4 ,years
 of experience and observation have     
shown the author that the methods herein
 described are entirely practical and   
are in common use today4  ,the various  
exercises in lead work will acquaint the
 beginner with the correct use of tools 
and metals4 ,the exercises in iron pipe 
work have also been detailed to show the
 correct installation of jobs4          
,together with the study of this book   
the subjects of ,mathematics1 ,physics1 
,chemistry1 ,drawing and ,english should
 be taken4 ,these subjects as they bear 
on ,plumbing are invaluable to the      
mechanic in his future connection with  
the trade4  ,the author is indebted for 
the illustrations of fixtures in the    
chapter covering the development of     
plumbing fixtures1 to the ,thomas       

,maddock's ,sons ,co41 ,standard        
,sanitary ,mfg4 ,co41 and ,the ,trenton 
,potteries ,co4                         
,,samuel ,,edward ,,dibble4             
,,pittsburgh1 ,december1 #aiag4         
,,contents                              
,,page       ,,preface                  
v       ,,chapter       ,i4 ,plumbing   
,fixtures and ,trade                    
#a       ,,ii4 ,the ,use and ,care of   
the ,soldering ,iron--,fluxes--,making  
,different ,soldering ,joints           
#aa       ,,iii4 ,mixtures of ,solders  
for ,soldering ,iron and ,wiping--,care 
of ,solders--,melting ,points of ,metals
 and ,alloys                #ba         
,,iv4 ,making and ,caring of ,wiping    
,cloths                         #bd     
,v4 ,preparing and ,wiping ,joints      
#bg       ,,vi4 ,preparing and ,wiping  
,joints 7,continued7                    
#cg       ,,vii4 ,laying ,terra-cotta   
and ,making ,connections to ,public     
,sewers--,water ,connections to ,mains  
in ,streets                  #fi        

,,viii4 ,installing of ,french or       
,sub-soil ,drains                  #hb  
,,ix4 ,storm and ,sanitary ,drainage    
with ,sewage ,disposal in      ,view    
#hf       ,x4 ,soil and ,waste ,pipes   
and ,vents--,tests                      
#ie       ,,xi4 ,house ,traps1          
,fresh-air ,connections1 ,drum ,traps1  
and      ,non-syphoning ,traps          
#ajd       ,,xii4 ,pipe ,threading      
#aaj       ,,xiii4 ,cold-water          
,supply--,test                          
#aah       ,,xiv4 ,hot-water            
,heaters--,instantaneous ,coil and      
,storage      ,tanks--,return           
,circulation1 ,hot-water ,lines and     
,expansion      #abd       ,,xv4        
,insulation of ,piping to ,eliminate    
,conduction1 ,radiation1      ,freezing 
and ,noise                              
#aca       ,,xvi4 ,durham or ,screw     
,pipe ,work--,pipe and ,fittings        
#acd       ,,xvii4 ,gas ,fittings1 ,pipe
 and ,fittings1 ,threading1 ,measuring  
and ,testing                            

#ada       ,,xviii4 ,plumbing ,codes    
#aec       ,,index                      
#afg     ,,elements ,,of ,,plumbing     
,,chapter ,i  ,,plumbing ,,fixtures     
,,and ,,trade   ,modern plumbing as a   
trade is the arranging and running of   
pipes to supply pure water to buildings1
 the erecting of fixtures for the use of
 this supply1 and the installing of     
other pipes for the resulting waste     
water4 ,the work of the trade divides   
itself therefore into two parts3 first  
the providing an adequate supply of     
water2 and second1 the disposing of this
 water after use4 ,the first division   
offers few problems to the plumber1     
little variety in the layout being      
possible1 and the result depending      
mostly upon the arrangement of the pipes
 and fittings2 but the second division  
calls for careful study in the          
arrangement1 good workmanship in the    
installing1 and individual attention to 
each fixture4  ,the trade had its       
beginnings in merely supplying fresh    

water to a community4 ,this was done by 
means of trenching1 or conveying water  
from lakes1 rivers1 or springs through  
wooden pipes or open troughs4 ,by easy  
stages the trade improved and enlarged  
its scope1 until at the present time it 
is able to provide for the adequate     
distribution of tons of water under high
 pressure furnished by the city water   
works4  ,in the early years of the trade
 the question of the disposal of the    
waste water was easily answered1 for it 
was allowed to be discharged onto the   
ground to seek its own course4 ,but with
 the increased amount of water          
available1 the waste-water problem has  
enlarged until today it plays the most  
important part of plumbing1 and the     
trade has had to change to meet this    
waste-water problem4  ,the first simple 
system of a pipe running from the sink  
to a point outside the building was     
sufficient4 ,as larger buildings came   
into use and communities were more      
thickly populated1 the plumbing problem 

demanded thought and intense study4 ,the
 waste pipes from fixtures had to be so 
arranged that it would be impossible for
 foul odors and germ-laden air to enter 
the building through a plumbing fixture4
 ,the importance of this is evidenced by
 the plumbing laws now in use throughout
 the country4  ,one of the first        
plumbing fixtures put into common use   
was a hollowed-out stone which served as
 a sink4 ,it was with considerable      
interest that the writer saw a sink of  
this kind in actual use in the summer of
 #aiae1 at a house in a ,new ,england   
village4 ,this sink had been in service 
for about #ajj years4 ,from this        
beginning the well-known fixtures of    
today have developed4 ,the demand for   
moderate priced1 sanitary closets1      
lavatories1 and baths has led to the    
rapid improvement seen in plumbing      
fixtures4 ,in the development of these  
fixtures1 as soon as a bad feature was  
recognized the fixture was at once      
discarded1 until now the market offers  

fixtures as mechanically fine as can be 
produced4 ,plumbing fixtures were at    
first manufactured so that it was       
necessary to support them on a wooden   
frame1 and this frame was enclosed in   
wood4 ,the enclosure made by this       
framework soon became foul and filthy   
and a breeding place for all kinds of   
disease germs and vermin4 ,this bad     
feature was overcome by the introduction
 of open plumbing1 that is1 fixtures so 
made that the enclosure of wood could be
 done away with4 ,the open plumbing     
allowed a free circulation of air around
 the fixture and exposed pipes1 thereby 
making the outside of the fixture and   
its immediate surroundings free from all
 the bad features of the closed         
plumbing4 ,plenty of fresh air and      
plenty of light are necessary for good  
sanitary plumbing4  ,the materials of   
which the first open-plumbing fixtures  
were made consisted of marble1 copper1  
zinc1 slate1 iron1 and clay4 ,time soon 
proved that marble and slate were       

absorbent1 copper and zinc soon leaked  
from wear1 iron rusted1 and clay cracked
 and lacked strength2 therefore these   
materials soon became insanitary1 and   
foul odors were easily detected rising  
from the fixture4 ,besides these        
materials being insanitary1 the fact    
that a fixture was constructed using a  
number of sections proved that joints   
and seams were insanitary features on a 
fixture4 ,for instance1 in a marble     
lavatory constructed by using one piece 
for the top1 another for the bowl1 and  
still another for the back1 filth       
accumulated at every joint and seam4    
,following this condition1 developed the
 iron enameled and earthenware fixtures1
 constructed without seams and with a   
smooth1 even1 glossy white finish4 ,the 
fact that these fixtures are made of    
material that is non-absorbent adds to  
their value as sanitary plumbing        
fixtures4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4        
#a4--,pan closet 7,english74  ,another  
problem which is as important as the    

foregoing is the proper flushing1 that  
is1 the supplying of sufficient water in
 a manner designed to cleanse the       
fixture properly4  ,the development of  
sanitary earthenware illustrates how the
 above problems were satisfactorily     
solved4 ,in the city of ,london a law   
compelling the use of drains was        
enforced1 and in the early #gj's the    
effect of this law was felt in this     
country4 ,the introduction at this time 
of the mechanical water closet1 known as
 the pan closet1 and the ,english       
plumbing material which was brought to  
this country was the beginning of       
,american plumbing1 which today         
outstrips that of any other country in  
the world4 ,the pan closet continued in 
use for some time until the valve closet
 was introduced as a more sanitary      
fixture4 ,closely following these       
closets1 in #ahhj1 the plunger closet   
became popular as a still more sanitary 
fixture4 ,the plunger closet continued  
in use until the present all-earthenware

 closet bowl drove all other makes from 
the market4 ,the ,american development  
of the earthenware closet bowl put the  
,american sanitary fixture far ahead of 
the ,english improvements1 as the       
,american earthenware is superior and   
the sanitary features of the bowls are  
nearer perfection4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #b4--,pan closet 7,american74    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,plunger     
closet4  ,when the washout bowl was     
introduced it was considered perfection4
 ,the hopper closet bowl1 which was     
nothing more than a funnel-shaped bowl  
placed on top of a trap1 was placed in  
competition with the washout bowl4      
,there are a number of these bowls now  
in use and also being manufactured4     
,however1 large cities prohibit their   
use4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4             
#d4--,plunger closet4  ,to quote ,thomas
 ,maddock's ,sons ,co43 ,in #ahgf ,wm4  
,smith of ,san ,francisco patented a    
water closet which employed a jet to    
assist in emptying the bowl and the     

development of this principle is due    
entirely to the potter1 who had         
gradually and by costly experiment      
become the determining factor in the    
evolution of the water closet4 ,with    
this improvement it became possible to  
do away with the boxing-in of the bowl  
which up to this time had been          
necessary4 ,closet bowls of today are   
made of vitreous body which does not    
permit crazing or discoloring of the    
ware4 ,a study of the illustrations     
which show the evolution of the closet  
bowl should be of interest to the       
student as well as to the apprentice and
 journeyman4 ,the bath tub developed    
from a gouged-out stone1 in which water 
could be stored and used for bathing    
purposes1 to our present-day enameled   
iron and earthenware tubs4 ,the         
development did not progress very       
rapidly until about #be years ago4      
,since then every feature of the tub has
 been improved1 and from a sanitary     
standpoint the tubs of today cannot be  

improved4 ,the bath tub has become an   
,american custom1 as the people in this 
country have demanded that they have    
sanitary equipment in their homes1 while
 in the ,european countries this demand 
has not developed4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #e4--,modern low-tank closet4    
,the first tubs used in this country    
were of wood lined with copper or zinc1 
and were built in or boxed in with wood 
panelling4 ,the plumbing ordinances of  
today prohibit this boxing as it proved 
to be a breeding place for vermin1 etc4 
,as the illustration shows1 the woodwork
 encasing the tub was in a great many   
cases beautifully carved and finished4  
,the placing on the market of a         
steel-clad tub1 a steel tub with a      
copper lining1 which did away with the  
boxing1 was a big improvement as far as 
sanitary reasons were concerned as well 
as a reduction in cost of tubs4 ,these  
tubs were set up on legs which permitted
 cleaning and provided good ventilation 
all around4 ,with these features they   

drove all other tubs from the market4   
,the copper and zinc were found to be   
hard to keep clean and they were soon   
replaced by the iron enamelled and      
earthenware tubs4 ,the finish on these  
tubs being white and non-absorbent makes
 them highly acceptable as sanitary     
fixtures4 ,a study of the illustrations 
will show how progress has been made in 
design as well as in sanitary features4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--;,encased    
bath tub4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4        
#g4--,steel tub on legs4  ,,the ,,wash  
,,bowl4--,succeeding the hand basin the 
first wash basins used in this country  
were made of marble or slate1 with a    
round bowl of crockery4 ,the bowl was   
#ad inches in diameter originally1 but  
later was changed to an oval bowl4 ,like
 the bath tub these wash stands were    
encased in wood1 the encasing being used
 to support the marble top4 ,ornamental 
brackets were introduced and the wood   
encasement done away with4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--,modern      

built-in tub4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#i4--;,encased wash bowl4  ,about #aijb 
the iron-enamelled lavatory appeared on 
the market and drove all other kinds    
from the market at once4 ,the reason for
 this is clear4 ,the marble stands were 
absorbent and were made with three      
parts1 top1 back1 and bowl2 the         
enamelled iron lavatory is made all in  
one piece of material non-absorbent4 ,a 
study of the illustrations will show    
clearly how the lavatory has been       
improved4 ,strange to say1 in all       
plumbing fixtures1 and especially the   
lavatory1 as improvements were made to  
make them more sanitary a reduction has 
been made in the price of an individual 
fixture4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,bath room 
of early #hj's4 ,all fixtures are       
enclosed4  ,the development of the      
urinal1 showers1 wash trays1 drinking   
fountains and other fixtures ,i will not
 attempt to cover4 ,as the demand has   
been evident for fixtures of certain    

types1 the plumber has been alert to    
anticipate and supply it4 ,there is     
need1 however1 for improvement in all   
our fixtures1 especially that part which
 connects with the waste pipes1 also the
 hanging1 that is the arrangement or    
lack of arrangement for hanging fixtures
 to the wall4 ,the waste and overflow of
 all fixtures need considerable change  
to make them sanitary4 ,the opportunity 
is1 therefore1 before anyone who will   
apply himself to this development4 ,much
 money1 thought1 and time have been     
spent by the manufacturers of iron      
enamelled ware and by the potteries to  
gather suggestions made by the plumber  
in regard to fixtures1 and then to      
perfect them4 ,to these manufacturers is
 due the beautiful design1 stability1   
and perfect sanitary material which make
 up our plumbing fixtures of today4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4     ,,chapter
 ,,ii  ,,the ,,use ,,and ,,care ,,of    
,,the ,,soldering ,,iron4 ,,fluxes4     
,,making ,,different ,,soldering        

,,joints   ,illustration3 ,,fig4        
#ac4--;,copper4  ,,the ,,soldering      
,,iron4--,the soldering iron is one of  
the first tools a plumber has to master4
 ,this tool is sometimes called a copper
 bit as it is made of copper2 and so    
throughout this book the words soldering
 iron1 copper bit1 iron1 and bit are    
used synonymously4 ,there are several   
different-shaped irons in common use    
today1 but an iron shaped like the one  
in ,fig4 #ac is the one for use in the  
following work4 ,take the iron as it is 
purchased1 having a wooden handle and   
the copper exposed on pointed end4      
,before it can be used the point must be
 faced and tinned4 ,to do this1 proceed 
as follows3       ,first1 heat the iron 
on the furnace4       ,second1 place in 
vise and file the four surfaces of the  
point4       ,third1 run a file over    
edges and point4       ,fourth1 heat the
 iron until it will melt solder4        
,fifth1 put #f or #h drops of solder and
 a piece of rosin the size      of a    

chestnut on an ordinary red brick4      
7,this rosin is called a      flux47    
,sixth1 take the hot iron and melt the  
solder and rosin on the      brick4     
,seventh1 rub the four surfaces of the  
point of the iron on the      brick     
keeping the point in the melted solder4 
,the solder will soon stick to the      
copper surfaces and then the iron is    
ready for use4  ,another way to tin the 
iron that is in common use is to rub the
 point of a hot iron on a piece of      
sal-ammoniac1 or dip the hot iron in    
reduced muriatic acid1 then rub the     
stick of solder on the iron4 ,the use of
 muriatic acid in tinning the iron is   
not recommended4 ,in the first place1 it
 is not always possible to carry it1 and
 in the second place it eats holes in   
the surface of iron1 which makes it     
necessary to file and smooth the        
surfaces again4 ,the constant use of    
muriatic acid on the copper soon wears  
it away and makes it unfit for use4     
,rosin is easily carried and applied and

 is by far the best to use in regular   
work4  ,,points ,,to ,,remember ,,in    
,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,soldering     
,,iron4--       ,first1 proper tinning  
is absolutely necessary for rapid and   
good work4       ,second1 do not allow  
the iron to heat red hot4       ,third1 
keep the point of the iron properly     
shaped4       ,fourth1 use the same flux
 in tinning as is to be used in         
soldering4       ,fifth1 when filing    
iron1 file as little as possible4       
,sixth1 keep in use two irons of the    
same size4   ,,flux  ,a flux is used to 
clean the surfaces of joints and seams  
to be soldered1 also to keep them from  
oxidizing and to help the metals to     
fuse4  ,the following list gives the    
names of various fluxes in common use1  
how they are applied1 and on what       
material they are most commonly used3   
,flux                      ,how applied 
,used on       ,rosin                   
,sprinkled on     ,lead1 tin1 and brass 
,tallow                    ,melted      

,lead and brass      ,muriatic acid     
7reduced7   ,with swab        ,copper1  
galvanized iron                         
and brass      ,muriatic acid 7raw7     
,with swab        ,dirty galvanized iron
  ,,rosin4--,rosin is purchased by the  
pound and comes in chunks4 ,it is very  
brittle and powders easily4 ,plumbers   
generally take a piece of #a-a_/d ,n4   
,p4 brass tubing1 solder a trap screw in
 one end and a cone-shaped piece of     
copper on the other4 ,the point of the  
cone is left open4 ,rosin is put into   
this tube and is easily sprinkled on    
work when needed4  ,,tallow4--,a        
plumber's tallow candle answers the     
purpose for tallow flux4 ,some plumbers 
carry a can for the tallow1 making it   
cleaner to handle4  ,,muriatic          
,,acid4--,muriatic acid or hydrochloric 
acid is used both raw and reduced4 ,raw 
acid is not diluted or reduced4 ,reduced
 acid is made as follows3 ,put some zinc
 chips in a lead receptacle and then    
pour in the muriatic acid4 ,the acid    

will at once act on the zinc4 ,the fumes
 should be allowed to escape into the   
outer air4 ,when chemical action ceases1
 the liquid remaining is called reduced 
acid4   ,,plumbers' ,,soils ,,and       
,,paste  ,it is necessary when soldering
 or wiping a joint to cover the parts of
 pipe adjoining the portion that is to  
be soldered or wiped so that the solder 
will not stick to it4 ,there are a      
number of preparations for this4 ,the   
one used by the best mechanics today is 
paste1 made as follows3       #h        
teaspoons of flour4      #a teaspoon of 
salt4      #a teaspoon of sugar4        
,mix with water and boil down to a thick
 paste4  ,the advantages of paste as a  
soil are many3       ,first1 it is made 
of materials easily obtained4           
,second1 solder will not stick to it4   
,third1 if pipe is thoroughly cleaned1  
the paste will not rub      off easily4 
,fourth1 poor workmanship cannot be     
covered up4       ,fifth1 when the work 
is completed1 a wet cloth will wipe it  

off and leave the work clean4  ,another 
soil used is lampblack and glue4 ,a     
quantity of glue is melted and then     
lampblack is added4 ,this needs to be   
heated and water added each time it is  
used4 ,this soil is put on pipes with a 
short stubby brush4 ,the work when      
completed with the silvery joint and jet
 black borders appears to the           
uninitiated very artistic and neat1 but 
when the black soil is worn away the    
uneven edges of the joint appear1       
disclosing the reason for using a black 
soil that covers all defects4 ,the      
mechanic of today who takes pride in his
 ability for good workmanship will not  
cover his work with black soil4  ,it can
 readily be seen that the use of        
lampblack soil encourages poor          
workmanship1 while the use of paste     
forces1 to a certain extent1 good       
workmanship on the part of the mechanic4
  ,before soil or paste is applied1 the 
pipe needs to be cleansed4 ,grease and  
dirt accumulate on the pipe4 ,the       

methods employed to remove all foreign  
matter are simply to scrape the surface 
with fine sand or emery paper2 sand and 
water will also answer for this purpose4
 ,this cleans the surface and allows the
 soil or paste to stick to the pipe4    
,,making ,,different ,,solder ,,joints  
,the tools used in making the different 
solder joints as described and          
illustrated in this chapter are shown in
 ,fig4 #ad4  ,,cup ,,joint4--,the       
materials necessary for the work 7,fig4 
#ae73 #ab inches of #a_/b-;inch ,,aa    
lead pipe1 paste1 rosin1 #a_/b and #a_/b
 solder4  ,if a gas furnace is not on   
the bench to heat the iron1 then a      
gasoline furnace is necessary4  ,each of
 the following operations must be done  
thoroughly to insure a perfect job3     
,first1 with the ,,saw cut off #ab      
inches of #a_/b-;inch ,,aa lead pipe    
from the coil4 ,when cutting off a piece
 of lead pipe from a coil or      reel1 
always straighten out #a foot more than 
is needed4 ,this leaves      #a foot of 

straight pipe always on the coil4       
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--,tools used 
for making solder joints4       ,second1
 with the flat side of the ,,rasp1      
square the ends of the      #ab-;inch   
piece of pipe4 7,a good way to do this  
is to hold the pipe      at right angles
 with the edge of the bench1 run the    
rasp across the      end of the pipe1   
keeping the rasp parallel with the edge 
of the      bench4 ,apply this to all   
work when necessary to square the ends  
of      pipe47       ,third1 cut the    
pipe with the saw1 making two pieces    
each #f inches      in length4          
,fourth1 square the ends just cut4      
,fifth1 rasp the edges of one end as    
shown in the cut4 ,hold the      work in
 such a way that the stroke of the rasp 
can be seen without      moving the     
pipe4       ,sixth1 take the other      
#f-;inch piece of pipe and with the     
,,turn ,,pin      spread one end of it4 
,the turn pin must be struck squarely in
 the      center with the ,,hammer1 the 

point of the turn pin being kept in the 
center of the pipe4 ,the pipe should be 
turned after each blow of      the      
hammer4 ,the pipe must not rest on the  
bench but should be held      in the    
hand while using the turn pin4 ,if the  
pipe bends1 it can be      straightened 
with ,,bending ,,irons4 ,if the pipe is 
spread more on one      side than the   
other1 the turn pin should be hit on the
 opposite      side so as to even the   
spread4       ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4
       ,seventh1 when the pipes are     
properly fitted1 moisten the tips of    
the fingers with paste and rub the paste
 on parts of pipe marked      paste4    
,put the pipe aside to allow the paste  
to dry4       ,eighth1 put the soldering
 iron on to heat4       ,ninth1 with the
 ,,shave ,,hook scrape off the paste and
 surface dirt      as shown in the      
figure4 ,the inside of the cup will look
 bright1 but      must be scraped4      
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--;,cup joint4
       ,tenth1 place the two pieces into

 position as shown in ,fig4 #af1        
sprinkle rosin on the joint1 melt a few 
drops of solder on the      joint and   
with the iron melt the solder on the    
joint1 drawing the      iron around the 
pipe keeping the solder melted around   
the iron all      the time4             
,eleventh1 fill the joint with solder   
and continue to draw the hot      iron  
around the joint until a smooth and     
bright surface is      obtained4 ,to    
master the correct use of the soldering 
iron in this      work1 considerable    
practice will be necessary4  ,,overcast 
,,joints4--7,fig4 #ag47                 
,,note4--,each operation must be        
performed thoroughly4       ,first1 saw 
off from a coil of #a-a_/b-;inch ,d lead
 pipe a #aj-;inch      piece of pipe4   
,second1 square the ends with the rasp1 
as previously explained4       ,third1  
take a #a-a_/b-;inch ,,drift ,,plug and 
drive through the pipe      7,fig4 #ah74
       ,fourth1 saw the pipe into two   
pieces of #e inches each4       ,fifth1 

square the ends of the pipe with the    
rasp4       ,sixth1 rasp off the outside
 edge of one end of the pipe as shown4  
,seventh1 rasp off the inside edge of   
one end of the pipe4       ,eighth1     
finish rasped surfaces with a file4     
,both surfaces should      have the same
 angle4       ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4
       ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4       
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,overcast   
joint4       ,ninth1 with a shave hook  
scrape the outside surface of each pipe 
for about #a inch from the end4         
,tenth1 put the soldering iron on to    
heat4       ,eleventh1 paste paper on   
the joint as shown in the cut4          
,twelfth1 fit the pieces together and   
lay on the bench4 ,drop some      melted
 solder on the joint and with the hot   
iron proceed to flow      the solder    
around the joint by turning the pipe4   
,use plenty of flux      7rosin74 ,the  
pipes must be tacked in three or four   
places at first      or they will have a
 tendency to spread4       ,thirteenth1 

to finish the joint1 lift the iron      
straight up4  ,this joint when finished 
will have a bright smooth finish4 ,the  
two foregoing joints need considerable  
practice and should be perfectly        
mastered before going on to the next    
job4   ,,seams  ,a description of the   
making of wiped seams for lead-lined    
tanks will not be attempted as very few 
are made now4 ,the plumber1 however1 is 
often called upon to make a seam joining
 two pieces of sheet lead4 ,the beginner
 will do well to go over the following  
exercise carefully and practice it      
thoroughly4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4      
#bj4--;,flat seam4  ,,materials4--,two  
pieces of #h-pound sheet lead1 #f by #aj
 inches each2 one bar of #a_/b and #a_/b
 solder2 paste1 paper1 and rosin4       
,,tools4--,rasp1 shave hook1 and        
soldering iron4  ,the #aj-;inch side of 
each piece is rasped and fitted         
together4 ,the edges are cleaned and    
paper is pasted on leaving #a_/d inch   
for solder4 ,paste without the paper can

 be put on4 ,this will make a joint     
#a_/b inch wide4  ,apply the rosin to   
the joint1 then with the heated iron and
 some solder tack the seam on the top1  
then on the bottom and middle4 ,this    
will prevent the seam from spreading    
when the lead is heated4 ,solder and    
rosin can now be put on the full length 
of the joint4 ,with a hot iron proceed  
to float the solder down the seam4 ,the 
soldering iron must not rest at full    
length on the pieces of lead or it will 
melt the lead and render the work       
useless4 ,the solder will flow and form 
a clean neat seam1 if the iron is at the
 right heat and the right amount of     
solder is put on4 ,if the iron is too   
hot1 the solder will flow instantly when
 the iron is laid on it and the solder  
will disappear as it runs through the   
seam4 ,if the iron is too cold the      
solder will not melt enough to flow4    
,too much solder on the seam will cause 
it to overflow1 that is1 the solder will
 spread beyond the papered edges4 ,after

 a little practice this surplus solder  
can be drawn in on the seam with the    
iron and carried along the seam to some 
point that has not enough solder4 ,when 
the seam is completed the edges should  
be perfectly straight and even4 ,the    
iron is carried along the seam with one 
stroke which makes the seam appear      
smooth and bright4     ,,chapter ,,iii  
,,mixtures ,,of ,,solders ,,for         
,,soldering ,,iron ,,and ,,wiping4      
,,care ,,of ,,solders4 ,,melting        
,,points ,,of ,,metals ,,and ,,alloys   
,the importance of good solder1 that is1
 solder correctly mixed and thoroughly  
cleaned1 should not be overlooked4 ,work
 is more quickly and neatly done and the
 job presents a more finished appearance
 when solder that is correctly made is  
used4  ,the solder used in the following
 work with the soldering iron is called 
#a_/b and #a_/b4 ,this means #a_/b 7#ej 
per cent47 lead and #a_/b 7#ej per      
cent47 tin4  ,in the mixture of solder1 
only pure metals should be used4 ,the   

lead should be melted first and all the 
dross cleaned off4 ,the tin should then 
be added and mixed4  ,the solder to be  
used in wiping the joints in the        
following chapter is a mixture of #cg   
per cent4 tin and #fc per cent4 lead4   
,this is called wiping solder4  ,the    
following table gives the melting       
points1 etc43                           
----------------------------------------
--------------------------              
,melting            ,metal       point  
,mixture                                
----------------------------------------
--------------------------      ,sulphur
          #bbh     ,pure      ,tin      
#ddf     ,pure      ,lead               
#fbf     ,pure      ,zinc               
#fhj     ,pure      ,fine solder        
#djj     #ej per cent4 tin1 #ej per     
cent4 lead 7wt47      ,wiping solder    
#cgj     #cg per cent4 tin1 #fc per     
cent4 lead 7wt47                        
----------------------------------------
--------------------------  ,to         

recognize fine solder1 run off a bar    
into a mold and let it cool4 ,if there  
is a frosted streak in the center1 the  
metal has not enough tin4 ,the surface  
should be bright4 ,to recognize wiping  
solder1 pour some on a brick4 ,when this
 is cool1 the top should be frosty and  
the under side should have four or five 
bright spots4 ,the amount poured on the 
brick should be about the size of a half
 dollar4 ,if poured on iron1 the metal  
will cool too quickly and show bright   
all over the under side4  ,,to ,,make   
#a_/b ,,and #a_/b ,,solder ,,or         
,,plumber',s ,,fine ,,solder4--,the     
possibility of getting pure clean metals
 to mix solder is very remote4 ,old     
pieces of lead pipe1 lead trap1 old     
block tin pipe are used to make solder  
when pure metals are not at hand4       
,first1 in a cast-iron pot melt the lead
 to about #hjj deg41 or a dull      red4
       ,second1 clean off the dross4    
,third1 add 7to a #ae-pound pot7 #a_/b  
pound of sulphur in three               

applications4 ,each time mix the sulphur
 thoroughly with the metal      with a  
long stick4       ,fourth1 add tin      
before the last application of sulphur4 
,mix      thoroughly4       ,fifth1 pour
 off two bars and look for the frosty   
streak in the      center4 ,add a little
 more tin1 if necessary4  ,,to ,,mix    
,,wiping ,,solder4--       ,first1      
proceed as described in #a_/b and #a_/b1
 melting the metals      and burning out
 with sulphur1 adding the percentage of 
tin      according to the preceding     
table4 ,then test the solder for bright 
spots on the under side4       ,second1 
keep the metal thoroughly mixed when    
burning and keep      all dross cleaned 
off the surface4  ,the working heat of  
wiping solder is #ejj deg4,f4 ,sulphur  
is used to collect all zinc and dross4  
,the sulphur should come in contact with
 all parts of the metal4 ,this is why   
the metal should be stirred when the    
sulphur is put in4  ,a few good points  
in the economical care of solder are    

listed below4  ,,care ,,of #a_/b ,,and  
#a_/b ,,solder4--       ,first1 do not  
drop melted solder on the floor or dirty
 bench4       ,second1 use all small    
ends by melting on a new bar4           
,third1 put clean paper under work and  
use droppings4       ,fourth1 have the  
mold free from dirt when pouring4       
,,care ,,of ,,wiping ,,solder4--        
,first1 do not heat red hot4            
,second1 do not file brass where the    
filings will get into the      solder4  
,third1 do not allow lead chips to get  
into the solder4       ,fourth1 clean   
the solder occasionally4       ,fifth1  
learn to distinguish solder from lead by
 its hardness4       ,sixth1 have       
different-shaped pot for lead and       
solder4       ,seventh1 do not tin brass
 by dipping into solder4       ,eighth1 
do not put cold or wet ladle into hot   
solder4  ,a pot holding about #ae pounds
 of solder is the size commonly in use4 
,,chapter ,,iv  ,,making ,,and ,,care   
,,of ,,wiping ,,cloths   ,a good wiping 

cloth is essential for wiping joints4   
,the exact size and the flexibility of  
the cloth depend a great deal upon the  
mechanic who handles the cloth4 ,some   
mechanics like a stiff cloth1 but the   
writer has always used a flexible cloth4
 ,the sizes1 shape1 and methods of      
folding and breaking in as shown in     
,fig4 #ba below have proved successful4 
,cloths made of whalebone ticking are   
inexpensive and make the best for       
ordinary use4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#ba4--;,folding a wiping cloth4         
,size of cloth open               ,size 
of cloth folded      #ad-a_/b by        
#ad-a_/b inches  equals  #c-a_/d by     
#c-a_/d inches      #ac-a_/b by #ac-a_/b
 inches  equals  #c     by  #c          
inches       #h-a_/b by #ab-a_/b inches 
equals  #b     by  #c     inches  ,for  
the joint-wiping jobs to follow1 the    
above sizes are the best4 ,the largest  
size1 #ad-a_/b by #ad-a_/b inches is    
used for catch cloth4 ,the #ac-a_/b by  
#ac-a_/b inches is the wiping cloth4    

,the #h-a_/b by #ab-a_/b inches is the  
branch cloth4  ,proceed as follows to   
cut and complete a cloth3       ,first1 
lay the ticking on the flat bench and   
square the sides      #ad-a_/b by       
#ad-a_/b inches4       ,second1 the     
ticking should be cut off with shears   
and not torn      or cut with a knife4  
,third1 fold as shown in the cut4  ,each
 fold should be moistened with a little 
water and pressed with a hot iron4 ,the 
cloth should not be pulled or stretched1
 but should be kept as square as        
possible4  ,the first and second folds  
require a little care2 the corners when 
folded to the center should be kept in a
 little1 thus making the outside edge   
slightly rounded4 ,if this is done1 the 
corners will not stick out when the     
cloth is finished4 ,after the cloth is  
carefully folded1 pressed1 and dried1   
take a needle and thread and sew the    
open corners about #a_/b inch in from   
the edge of the cloth4 ,by carefully    
studying the cut1 one can readily see   

each operation and1 by following        
directions1 make a perfect cloth4  ,when
 the cloth is done1 an amount of oil    
sufficient to soak through about three  
layers of cloth should be applied and   
then rubbed on a smooth surface4 ,the   
oil should be rubbed in well about the  
edges4 ,it will not be necessary to     
apply anything else to the cloth to     
prepare it for wiping4 ,paste1 soil1    
chalk1 etc41 are not needed and do not  
benefit the cloth4 ,when using oil on   
the cloth1 it must not be used too      
freely1 that is1 the cloth must not be  
soaked in oil1 as oil is a rapid        
conductor of heat and the cloth would   
soon become too hot to handle4  ,,care  
,,of ,,wiping ,,cloths4--,the ticking   
will burn if allowed to become too hot4 
,if hot solder is poured directly on the
 cloth1 it will soon burn and be        
destroyed4  ,keep the surface on both   
sides of the cloth well oiled4  ,use    
both sides of the cloth4  ,use both     
wiping edges of the cloth4              

,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--,wiping     
cloth folded has #af thicknesses of     
ticking4  ,when the cloth is not in use1
 it should not be thrown in with the    
other tools and allowed to curl up into 
all sorts of shapes1 but should be kept 
in some flat place4 ,a good way to keep 
the cloths is to have two pieces of wood
 between which the cloths may be kept   
and held there by means of a strap4 ,the
 length of time which a wiping cloth can
 be used depends a great deal upon its  
making and upon the care which is given 
it4     ,,chapter ,v  ,,preparing ,,and 
,,wiping ,,joints   ,when the writer    
first started to carry the tools for a  
plumber and to prepare joints for       
wiping1 the remark was often heard that 
joint wiping would soon be a thing of   
the past4 ,i have heard this many times 
since from many different sources4      
,personally1 ,i fail to see the passing 
of the wiped joint4 ,more lead pipe is  
being made today than ever before1 which
 goes to show that lead pipe is being   

used and the only successful way of     
joining is with the wiped joint4 ,some  
plumbers' helpers of today seem to think
 that joint wiping is of no account4 ,to
 a certain extent1 ,i can sympathize    
with them4 ,most of these boys are      
learning a trade in large cities and    
working for concerns that do nothing but
 a large contracting business4 ,this    
large work is carried on differently    
from the small work4 ,wrought-iron or   
steel pipes are used to a great extent  
in this work and a very small amount of 
lead is used4 ,sometimes the job will be
 completed without the use of lead4 ,the
 boy who works continually on this kind 
of work soon comes to think that lead   
pipes are no longer in use4 ,the writer 
has found that a boy who has learned to 
do nothing but screw-pipe work is       
absolutely lost and cannot perform the  
duties of a plumber1 other than         
screw-pipe work4 ,it must be borne in   
mind that lead pipe and cast-iron pipe  
work are being used today in all parts  

of the country and in some parts more   
than in others4 ,therefore1 the boy must
 grasp all branches of the trade that he
 has chosen to follow and not be a      
one-sided man4 ,joint wiping belongs to 
the plumber alone4 ,the plumbing trade  
differs from all other trades in that it
 has joint wiping for its distinctive   
feature4  ,a few attempts at joint      
wiping will convince the beginner that  
it is not the easiest thing in the world
 to learn4 ,let me caution the beginner 
not to get discouraged4 ,he must have   
patience and a firm resolve to master   
the art of joint wiping and not let it  
master him and keep him back4  ,so1 as  
we now start on exercises of joint      
wiping1 let the beginner constantly keep
 in mind that all boys must become      
perfectly skilled in the art of joint   
wiping before they can be considered    
plumbers4 ,keep in mind also that the   
examination that one must take to get a 
plumber's license contains an actual    
exercise in joint wiping4 ,the one word 

of advice is not to get discouraged4    
,continued practice is the only way to  
success4  ,the soldering iron is1 or    
should be1 conquered by this time4 ,as  
joint wiping is the next exercise1 ,i   
shall go over a few general points that 
experience has taught me and cannot fail
 to be of assistance to the beginner if 
they are heeded4 ,in fact1 to become    
proficient1 the beginner should remember
 all the points suggested under this    
heading4 ,it is necessary in wiping to  
have good solder4 ,in the chapter on    
solder1 ,i have given the correct       
mixtures and how to recognize the proper
 mixtures4 ,the place where wiping is to
 be done should be considered4 ,no      
draught should be allowed to blow across
 the work as it tends to chill the      
solder and pipe4 ,proper support for the
 work should be procured4 ,if gasoline  
is to be used for fuel to heat the      
solder1 make sure that the tank is full 
before starting1 otherwise the fire may 
go out just when the heat is needed most

 and the solder in the pot has become   
too cool to wipe with4 ,have a catch pan
 and keep all the solder droppings to   
put back into the pot1 otherwise the    
solder will pile up and the fingers are 
likely to be pushed into the pile and   
badly burned4 ,hold the ladle about #b  
inches above the work1 the catch cloth  
about #a inches below4 ,do not drop the 
solder in the same place4 ,keep moving  
the ladle4 ,do not pour the solder on   
the pipe in a steady stream1 but drop it
 on4 ,it is not a large amount of solder
 that is wanted on the joint at first1  
it is heat that is needed4 ,this can be 
secured better by dropping the solder on
 than by pouring a large quantity on the
 pipe4 ,the edges of the joint cool very
 quickly2 therefore heat the edges well 
and keep them covered with molten solder
 until the joint is ready to wipe4 ,when
 preparing joints for wiping1 always do 
the work thoroughly and fit the pieces  
together tightly so that no solder can  
get through4  ,,points ,,to             

,,remember4--       ,first1 good solder4
       ,second1 place of wiping4        
,third1 support4       ,fourth1 full    
tank of gasoline4       ,fifth1 drip    
pan4       ,sixth1 ladle #b inches above
 the work4       ,seventh1 cloth #a     
inches below the work4       ,eighth1   
move the ladle continually4             
,ninth1 drop the solder4       ,tenth1  
heat1 not solder wanted at first4       
,eleventh1 heat the edges4              
,twelfth1 careful preparation4          
,thirteenth1 clean grease from the pipe4
       ,fourteenth1 cut clean straight  
edges on paper4   ,,half-,,inch ,,round 
,,wiped ,,joint  ,,preparation4--,take  
#ab inches of #a_/b-;inch strong lead   
pipe and square off the ends with a     
rasp4 ,take the shave hook and scrape   
the center of the pipe perfectly bright2
 a space #c inches each side of the     
center is correct4 ,the size of the     
joint when completed should be #b-a_/b  
inches long4 ,if we should undertake to 
wipe the joint with the pipe in the     

present condition1 the solder would     
adhere to all the pipe that was shaved  
bright4 ,therefore1 we take a piece of  
paper sufficient to encircle the pipe   
twice and after putting paste on one    
side of the paper wrap it around the    
pipe so that the edge that is cut       
straight and even is #a-a_/d inches from
 the center of the pipe4 ,another piece 
of paper is pasted on the other side of 
the center leaving a clean1 bright space
 of #b-a_/b inches4 ,all the pipe should
 be covered with paper except the       
#b-a_/b inches in the center4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4  ,,to ,,put  
,,the ,,pipe ,,in ,,position ,,for      
,,wiping4--,the most practical way is to
 take two common red bricks with the #b 
by #h face down and place them #i inches
 apart4 ,lay the pipe on the bricks and 
place a weight on each end4 ,the solder 
will drop on to the bench1 so it is best
 to place a piece of paper or a pan of  
black iron under the pipe to catch the  
solder that drops4 ,the pan or paper can

 then be taken up and the solder put    
back into the pot without waste4 ,a     
cast-iron pot holding #ae pounds of     
solder is then placed on the furnace4   
,when the solder has melted and has     
reached #ejj deg4 it is ready for use4  
,this can best be determined by putting 
a piece of paper in the solder4 ,if the 
paper scorches1 the solder is at the    
right heat2 if the paper catches fire1  
it is too hot4  ,now take a #c-;inch    
ladle and heat it over the fire and then
 dip it into the solder and skim off any
 dross that may have collected4         
,,wiping4--,with the ladle full of      
solder in the right hand and the large  
cloth or the catch cloth in the left    
hand1 begin to drop the solder on the   
joint4 ,the cloth should catch all the  
solder as it falls off the pipe4 ,if hot
 solder is held against the bottom of   
the pipe1 it is heated to the proper    
heat4 ,always begin to drop the solder  
on the paper edges1 then drop the solder
 on the joint itself4 ,bear in mind that

 the solder should not be poured on1 but
 dropped on slowly4 ,after the first few
 drops do not drop the solder directly  
on to the lead pipe but on to the solder
 previously put on the pipe4 ,this will 
save the pipe from burning through4 ,the
 pipe must be the same heat as the      
solder before the proper heat is        
obtained for good wiping4 ,the beginner 
should practice dropping the solder on  
the joint1 catching the solder and      
working it around the pipe4 ,by doing   
this1 one becomes familiar with the     
feeling of hot solder1 which is the     
secret of successful wiping4 ,when the  
solder works easily around the pipe1    
drop the ladle and take the smaller     
wiping cloth in the right hand and with 
both cloths draw all the solder on top  
of the pipe4 ,with fingers on the       
corners of both cloths1 clean off the   
left-hand edge and with the right hand  
draw the surplus solder across to the   
right-hand edge4 ,next1 clean the       
right-hand edge of the joint pushing the

 surplus solder onto the cloth in the   
right hand4 ,work this solder on to the 
bottom of the joint4 ,now discard the   
catch cloth4 ,holding the wiping cloth  
with the index fingers on lower opposite
 corners1 shape the under and front side
 of the joint4 ,with the middle fingers 
on opposite lower corners of the cloth  
shape the back and top4 ,keep the index 
and middle fingers on the edge of the   
cloth and the edge of the cloth on the  
edge of the joint4 ,this position       
together with the size and shape of the 
cloth will give the joint the desired   
form and appearance4 ,particular        
attention is called to the position of  
the fingers as shown in the figure4     
,the last wipe should be a quick stroke 
coming off of joint on a tangent4 ,if   
the solder is at right heat1 the cloth  
will not leave a noticeable mark4 ,if1  
however1 the solder is too cold1 a      
ragged edge will result4 ,sometimes a   
cross wipe is made for the last stroke  
and a good finish obtained4  ,,points   

,,to ,,remember4--       ,first1 width  
of the joint1 #b-a_/b inches4           
,second1 allow no soil or paste to get  
on the joint4       ,third1 a #c-;inch  
ladle should be used4       ,fourth1    
#ejj deg4 is the working heat of solder4
       ,fifth1 paper test for solder    
heat4       ,sixth1 position of wiping  
cloths4       ,seventh1 do not drop     
solder on the lead pipe4       ,eighth1 
hold the ladle #b inches above the pipe4
       ,ninth1 wipe the edges of the    
joint first4       ,tenth1 wipe and     
shape the joint quickly4  ,the above    
procedure of wiping will be found to    
work out very easily if followed        
closely4 ,do not pour the hot solder    
onto the cloth as the cloth will burn   
through and soon be useless4 ,a little  
more oil should be put on the cloth     
after using it for awhile4 ,the cloth   
should be turned around and the opposite
 side also used4 ,the cloth will last   
considerably longer if sides are changed
 frequently4 ,the solder should not     

accumulate on the pan1 but should be    
continually put back into the pot4 ,the 
metal1 as solder is sometimes called1   
should never be allowed to become red   
hot4  ,the above method of preparing    
pipe is suggested for beginners only and
 will be found to be a great help to    
them4 ,in actual practice the joint must
 be prepared differently4 ,the method   
used in trade is as follows3  ,the joint
 is used to join two pieces of lead     
pipe4 ,take two pieces and rasp the four
 ends square4 ,with the tap borer clean 
out the end of one pipe a trifle1 then  
with the turn pin enlarge this end just 
a little as shown in the figure4 ,then  
rasp the edge off about #a_/h inch as   
shown4 ,take the other piece of pipe and
 rasp one end as was done in the cup    
joint1 making it fit into the first     
piece4 ,then place the two ends together
 and with the bending iron beat the     
pipe1 making the joint as tight as      
possible4   ,,round ,,joint--#de deg4   
,,to ,,right  ,the next position in     

which the beginner is to wipe a joint is
 on an angle of #de deg4 to the right4  
,,preparation4--,to prepare this joint1 
proceed as in the horizontal round      
joint4 ,i will enumerate a few of these 
points4 ,a piece #ab inches long of     
#a_/b-;inch pipe is cut off and the ends
 squared4 ,a strip in the center1 #f    
inches long1 is shaved clean4 ,paper and
 paste are put over the pipe except     
#b-a_/b inches in the center4 ,grease   
can be put on the pipe in between the   
pieces of paper and will keep the lead  
from oxidizing4  ,,placing ,,pipe ,,in  
,,position4--,there is no need of an    
elaborate system of holding the pipe in 
position4 ,take a red brick and place   
the #d by #h face down4 ,this will do   
for the bottom pipe4 ,for the top of    
pipe to rest on1 place two bricks one   
above the other2 this will give the     
correct position4 ,place the pipe on the
 brick and with a ladle full of half    
molten solder pour a clamp of solder    
over the end of the pipe4 ,this will    

hold the pipe firm for wiping4 ,place a 
catch pan under the joint for solder to 
fall in4  ,,wiping4--,the method of     
wiping this joint is practically the    
same as wiping the horizontal joint4    
,the catch cloth should be held parallel
 with the bench tilting a little from   
front toward the back4 ,the ladle is    
held the same and solder is dropped on  
as before4 ,the ladle should be         
continually moving while dropping       
solder1 not allowing the solder to drop 
twice in the same place4 ,when the      
solder has been worked around the pipe  
and is at working heat1 the solder is   
drawn up with both cloths and the top   
edge wiped first1 then the bottom edge2 
the surplus solder is put on the        
underside of the joint1 and then with   
three or four wipes the joint is made   
symmetrical and finished4  ,,things ,,to
 ,,remember4--       ,first1 prepare    
like the horizontal joint4              
,second1 use brick to place in position4
       ,third1 hold tools as in         

horizontal joint4       ,fourth1 top    
edge cools first1 therefore1 wipe it    
first4       ,fifth1 hold the wiping    
cloth at an angle of #de deg4 when      
wiping1      with fingers placed as     
noted in previous joint4       ,sixth1  
make solder clamp for holding the pipe4 
,,round ,,joint #de deg4--,,left  ,when 
the preceding joint is well mastered and
 a number of good joints have been      
wiped1 turn the pipe on an angle of #de 
deg4 to the left4  ,,preparation4--,the 
preparation for this joint is exactly   
the same as for the horizontal joint4   
,the beginner should turn back and read 
carefully concerning the perfection of  
the joint4 ,bear in mind that the pipe  
must be correctly prepared or a good    
joint cannot be made4 ,the edge of the  
paper must be cut not torn4  ,,placing  
,,pipe ,,in ,,position4--,this pipe can 
be placed in position the same as the   
preceding one4 ,if heavy weights are    
placed on the ends of the pipe1 a bad   
habit may be formed by the one learning 

to wipe4 ,that is1 the habit of pressing
 hard on the joint when wiping4 ,in the 
preceding joint1 if the beginner presses
 too hard1 the pipe will fall off the   
bricks4  ,,wiping4--,proceed as         
described for previous joints4 ,the top 
edge must be favored a little4 ,the hot 
solder will run down to the bottom edge2
 therefore less solder should be dropped
 on it than on the top edge4 ,when the  
solder is at the proper heat for wiping 
it requires only a light touch to wipe  
the joint4 ,if it appears necessary to  
press hard on the joint to wipe off     
surplus solder1 it shows that the solder
 is not at the correct wiping heat4     
,,round ,,joint--,,vertical             
,,preparation4--,this joint can be      
prepared exactly like the preceding one4
 ,in fact1 the same piece of pipe can be
 used throughout4 ,when preparing this  
joint the end that is to be on the      
bottom should be well covered with      
paper4  ,,placing ,,in ,,position4--,the
 best way to hold this joint in position

 for wiping is to stand the pipe upright
 on one end with the pan underneath4 ,a 
piece of furring strip should be run    
from the top of the pipe to the wall4   
,secure the strip to the wall and drive 
a nail through the strip into the bore  
of the pipe4 ,place a weight on top of  
the strip and the pipe is ready4        
,,wiping4--,the procedure of wiping this
 joint is entirely different from that  
in the other positions4 ,the solder is  
thrown onto the joint from the ladle4   
,the catch cloth is held up to the pipe 
and as much solder as possible is held  
on to the pipe4 ,move the ladle around  
the joint1 throwing a little solder on  
as the ladle is moved4 ,notice now that 
all the solder runs to the bottom edge1 
leaving the top edge cold4 ,the solder  
that accumulates on the bottom edge     
should be drawn up to the top edge with 
the cloth4 ,then splash more solder on  
to the top edge and as the solder runs  
down the pipe catch it with the cloth   
and draw it up again4 ,the solder can be

 worked around and up and down the      
joint1 but always keep the top edge     
covered with hot solder4 ,the solder is 
likely to drop off the joint entirely   
unless watched closely4 ,when the       
correct heat is obtained1 drop the      
ladle4 ,take the wiping cloth in the    
right hand and with the fingers spread1 
clean off the top edge quickly1 then    
shape the joint with the one cloth4     
,with a little practice you will gain   
this knack4 ,the joint can then be      
wiped4 ,the left hand can steady the    
pipe4 ,spread the index finger and third
 finger to opposite sides of the cloth  
and wipe around the joint4     ,,chapter
 ,,vi  ,,preparing ,,and ,,wiping       
,,joints 7,continued7   ,,two-,,inch    
,,brass ,,ferrule  ,,materials4--,the   
beginner should continue wiping the     
vertical round joint until he is able to
 obtain a symmetrical bulb4 ,a joint    
should be wiped in each of the foregoing
 positions for exhibition purposes1 so  
that the beginner can have before him   

the best work and strive to make the    
next joint better4 ,this next joint1 the
 #b-;inch brass ferrule1 is wiped in an 
upright position4 ,the materials        
necessary are the #b-;inch brass        
ferrule1 #f inches of #b-;inch light    
lead pipe1 paste and paper1 #a_/b and   
#a_/b solder1 rosin1 wiping solder1     
catch pan1 and supports4  ,illustration3
 ,,fig4 #bd4  ,,tools ,,required4--,the 
tools necessary for this work are as    
follows3 the saw1 rasp1 drift plug1     
dresser1 file1 soldering iron1 bending  
irons1 wiping cloths1 shave hook1 and   
ladle4  ,,preparation4--,the lead pipe  
must be fitted into the brass ferrule4  
,the brass ferrule has to be tinned     
first4 ,to do this1 proceed as follows3 
file the ferrule for about #b inches on 
the tapered end4 ,do not file too deep1 
but just enough to expose the pure      
bright metal4 ,now measure from the     
small end #a-a_/d inches down toward the
 beaded end4 ,from this point to the    
bead1 cover the brass with paste and    

paper4 ,no paste must get on the        
#a-a_/d-;in4 filed end4 ,this end should
 not be touched with the fingers4 ,if   
paste gets on it1 the process of filing 
must be done over again as the solder   
will not stick where there is paste4 ,if
 the brass ferrule is filed while the   
paper is on the brass1 the filing will  
destroy the straight edge of the paper  
and an even joint cannot be made4 ,it   
would therefore be necessary to re-paper
 the brass4 ,take some powdered rosin   
and cover the filed end of the ferrule  
with molten solder using the rosin as a 
flux4 ,do not dip the end of the ferrule
 into the hot wiping solder to tin it or
 pour wiping solder on the brass        
ferrule4 ,this method of tinning the    
ferrule will spoil the wiping solder4   
,always use the soldering iron to tin   
the ferrule as explained above4 ,a      
little practice will develop the use of 
the iron in the hands of the beginner so
 that this tinning process will be done 
very rapidly4 ,the iron should be put on

 to heat when the paper is being pasted 
on the brass2 the iron will then be     
ready for use when needed4  ,,preparing 
,,the ,,lead4--,the ends of the lead    
pipe must be squared with the rasp4 ,all
 kinks and dents are taken out by using 
the drift plug and driving it through   
the pipe4 ,take a piece of smooth pine  
stick and start to beat in the end of   
the lead pipe to fit the brass ferrule4 
,the pipe should be beaten in starting  
about #c_/d inches from the end4 ,it    
should be beaten in very slowly until it
 fits the ferrule4 ,the pipe is held in 
the hand all the time and considerable  
time should be spent on this as it is   
the first time the beating in of lead   
pipe has been called for4 ,the knack of 
doing this comes only by slow and       
continued practice4 ,the lead must be   
humored into shape and not driven into  
shape4 ,the end of the pipe is tapered  
still more by rasping off the end4      
,about #c_/d inch should extend into the
 brass ferrule4 ,with the bending irons1

 the lead extending into the brass      
ferrule is beaten against the inside    
wall of the ferrule4 ,a good way to do  
this is to wedge the lead pipe in as    
much as possible at first1 then lay the 
work flat on the bench1 in which        
position it is more easily worked4 ,the 
sketch should be thoroughly studied and 
each notation be perfectly understood1  
before proceeding with the work4 ,now   
that the lead pipe is perfectly fitted  
into place1 it is prepared for wiping4  
,the joint overall will be #b-a_/b      
inches4 ,as we have already allowed     
#a-a_/d inches on the brass ferrule for 
the joint1 the lead will have to be     
cleaned that much more4 ,with the shave 
hook1 shave the end of the pipe that has
 been fitted into the brass ferrule4 ,a 
space about #d inches should be cleaned4
 ,this will give a cleaned surface free 
from dirt and grease for the paste and  
paper to adhere to4 ,next paste the     
paper in place4 ,the lead pipe can be   
entirely covered1 or #c or #d inches    

only1 above the #a-a_/d inches allowed  
for the joint4 ,the space between the   
paper on the brass and the paper on the 
lead should now be #b-a_/b inches4 ,the 
paste and paper should now be allowed to
 dry4  ,,supporting ,,the ,,pipe4--,this
 joint is wiped with the ferrule down on
 the bench4 ,a flat pan is laid on the  
bench and the ferrule stood upon it4 ,a 
weight on top of the lead pipe is all   
that is necessary4 ,if this does not    
make the pipe rigid enough for the      
beginner1 then a support similar to the 
round vertical joint support can be     
used4 ,the beginner is advised1 however1
 to practice the wiping of this joint   
with only the weight to hold it in      
position4 ,the beginner will then be    
required to wipe the joint while the    
solder is hot1 when it does not require 
a heavy pressure against the solder to  
wipe it in shape4 ,these wiped joints   
should be supported in place near the   
furnace that heats the solder so that   
the solder will be handy for wiping4    

,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--,two-inch   
brass ferrule4  ,,wiping4--,wiping this 
joint brings in some of the methods of  
the round vertical joint4 ,if that joint
 was thoroughly mastered1 this joint    
will be wiped considerably more easily4 
,the ladle is held in the right hand and
 the solder splashed on the joint4 ,the 
catch cloth is held in the left hand and
 some of the solder is caught and       
brought up on the top edge4 ,the top    
edge cools quickly as all the hot solder
 runs down to the bottom edge and into  
the pan4 ,as the solder accumulates on  
the bottom edge1 it is drawn up on the  
top edge1 and in this manner the top    
edge is kept hot4 ,when the solder can  
be worked freely around the pipe and the
 edges are hot1 the joint is ready to   
wipe4 ,the ladle is laid down and the   
wiping cloth is taken in the right hand 
and the top edge of the joint cleaned on
 one side4 ,then the wiping cloth is    
changed to the left hand and the other  
side of the top edge is cleaned4        

,holding the cloth in one hand with the 
index and the third fingers spread to   
the outside corners of the cloth1 the   
cloth is passed around the joint        
quickly4 ,to get an even and symmetrical
 joint1 it is necessary to make two or  
three passes around the joint holding   
the cloth first in the right and then in
 the left hand4 ,the free hand is used  
to steady the work4 ,this joint should  
be wiped very slim to allow room for the
 caulking irons to pass by it and get   
into the hub of the pipe4 ,constant     
wiping on the brass ferrule will result 
in the tinning on the brass ferrule     
coming off4 ,the ferrule will look black
 when this happens and will thus be     
recognized4 ,the wiping should then be  
stopped and the ferrule filed and tinned
 in the same manner as it was done at   
first4  ,,points ,,to ,,remember4--     
,first1 material--#f inches of #b-;inch 
light lead pipe and one      #b-;inch   
brass ferrule4       ,second1 tin       
ferrule1 using soldering iron4          

,third1 use a soft pine stick for a     
dresser4       ,fourth1 fit the lead    
into the ferrule4       ,fifth1 clean   
and paper the lead4       ,sixth1 secure
 the pipe into position4       ,seventh1
 using the catch cloth and ladle1 splash
 solder on      the joint4              
,eighth1 keep the top edge covered with 
solder4       ,ninth1 wipe the top edge 
first4       ,tenth1 shape and finish   
wiping with a few strokes4              
,eleventh1 tools used4       ,twelfth1  
wipe a slim joint4       ,thirteenth1   
steady the work with the free hand4     
,fourteenth1 re-tin the ferrule1 if     
necessary4   ,,four-,,inch ,,brass      
,,ferrule  ,the #d-;inch brass ferrule  
joint is the same as the #b-;inch1      
except for size4 ,the materials needed  
for this joint are #f inches of         
#d-;inch1 #h-pound lead pipe1 and one   
#d-;inch brass ferrule1 one full pot of 
solder1 some paste and paper1 rosin1 and
 #a_/b and #a_/b solder4  ,,tools       
,,necessary4--,the tools required for   

this joint are as follows3 saw1 rasp1   
file1 ladle1 soldering iron1 dresser1   
bending irons1 shave hook1 and wiping   
cloths4  ,,preparation4--,lead          
,pipe4--,with the saw cut off #f inches 
of #d-;inch lead pipe4 ,this pipe comes 
in lengths and should be for this work  
about #h pounds to the foot in weight4  
,the pipe may be dented badly1 but these
 dents can be taken out as follows3     
,take a piece of #b-;inch iron pipe and 
put it in a vise4 ,the lead pipe can be 
slipped over this iron pipe and any     
dents taken out easily by beating with  
the dresser4 ,one end of the lead pipe  
is beaten with the dresser until it fits
 into the ferrule4 ,the end is then     
rasped a little4 ,then1 after the brass 
ferrule has been tinned1 the pipe is    
fitted into it and beaten out against   
the inside wall of the brass ferrule and
 a tight joint is made4 ,the lead is    
next cleaned with the shave hook and    
paper is pasted on as explained under   
the #b-;inch brass ferrule1 the         

description of which should now be read 
over4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4            
#bf4--;,four-inch brass ferrule4  ,brass
 ,ferrule4--,the first thing to do with 
the brass ferrule is to file the end    
that is to be wiped4 ,when the brass    
ferrule is filed1 it should be done away
 from any part of the room where the    
filings are likely to get into the      
solder4 ,after the filing has been done1
 paper is pasted on all of it except the
 part that is to be tinned and no paste 
must get on to this part of the ferrule4
 ,if any paste does get on to it1 the   
filing will have to be done over again4 
,when using paste and paper1 neatness   
must be cultivated1 or paste will be    
spread over parts of the pipe that are  
supposed not to have any paste on them4 
,next1 take the soldering iron and heat 
it4 ,take some rosin and put it on the  
exposed part of the ferrule4 ,with the  
hot soldering iron proceed to tin the   
brass ferrule1 as explained before1 with
 #a_/b and #a_/b solder1 using rosin as 

a flux4 ,now the lead pipe that has     
previously been prepared is fitted into 
the ferrule4  ,,supporting4--,set the   
brass ferrule on a catch pan4 ,the lead 
pipe is upright4 ,a weight placed on top
 of the lead pipe will steady the pipe  
for wiping4 ,when the joint is wiped the
 free hand can hold the pipe if the     
weight is not sufficient to support it4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,four-inch 
brass ferrule4  ,,wiping4--,splash the  
solder on the joint from the ladle1 in  
the same manner as was employed in the  
two preceding joints4 ,to get the proper
 heat on the #d-;inch joint a little    
more speed is necessary1 also the       
constant working of the solder around   
the pipe4 ,the ladle is constantly moved
 around the pipe so that all parts of   
the pipe will be evenly heated and come 
into contact with the hot solder direct 
from the ladle4 ,when the solder works  
freely around the pipe and the top edge 
is hot1 the joint is shaped by holding  
the wiping cloth in the right hand1 with

 the index and the middle fingers spread
 to the opposite corners of the cloth4  
,the fingers are placed one on the top  
edge and one on the bottom edge4 ,the   
cloth is then passed around the joint as
 far as possible4 ,then the cloth is    
taken in the left hand1 with the fingers
 spread1 and passed around the rest of  
the joint4 ,if the solder does not take 
the shape of the cloth readily1 then the
 solder is not at the right heat4 ,this 
joint should be wiped very slim to allow
 room for the caulking tools4 ,when this
 joint is once started1 it should not be
 left until it has been wiped1 otherwise
 a large amount of solder will          
accumulate on the joint and will be hard
 to get off4  ,,points ,,to             
,,remember4--       ,first1 material4   
,second1 tools4       ,third1 tin       
ferrule4       ,fourth1 use the dresser 
to fit the lead into the ferrule4       
,fifth1 clean the lead with the shave   
hook1 and paper4       ,sixth1 use the  
catch cloth and ladle4       ,seventh1  

keep the top edge covered with hot      
solder4       ,eighth1 wipe the top edge
 first4       ,ninth1 make a slim joint4
       ,tenth1 steady the work with the 
free hand4   ,,stop ,,cock  ,,materials 
,,required4--,the materials used for    
this joint are as follows3 two pieces of
 #e_/h-;inch extra strong lead pipe #i  
inches long1 each2 one #a_/b-;inch plug 
stop cock for lead pipe2 paste and      
paper2 solder2 #a_/b and #a_/b solder2  
rosin2 catch pan and supports4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4  ,,tools     
,,necessary4--,the tools necessary for  
this job are as follows3 saw1 rasp1     
file1 turn plug1 shave hook1 bending    
irons1 hammer1 ladle1 soldering iron1   
and wiping cloths4                      
,,preparation4--,there are two joints to
 be wiped on this job and the stop cock 
is supported only by the rigid fitting  
of the lead pipe4 ,therefore the        
preparation must be thoroughly done4    
,the brass stop will be prepared first4 
,brass4--,the two ends of the stop cock 

are filed bright1 then papered and      
tinned4 ,this operation is the same1    
only on a smaller scale1 as the tinning 
of the #b-;inch and the #d-;inch brass  
ferrule4 ,the paper is pasted over the  
entire stop cock1 except the two ends1  
which are tinned for about #a-a_/d      
inches4  ,lead ,pipe4--,after the lead  
pipe has been cut off from the coil1 the
 ends are squared with the rasp4 ,one   
end of each piece is reamed out a little
 with the tap borer and spread a trifle 
with the turn pin4 ,with the rasp1 take 
off the outside edge of the end that has
 been spread4 ,the sketch will show this
 and give the angle at which the edge is
 to be rasped4 ,the stop cock is now    
fitted into the lead pipe4 ,the brass   
should enter at least #a_/d inch1 then  
the lead is beaten against the brass    
until a tight joint is made4 ,the other 
end of the brass stop is fitted into the
 other piece of the lead pipe and a     
perfect fit is made4 ,the fitting of    
these two joints must be rigid as upon  

them depends the stability of the joint 
support4 ,when these ends of the lead   
pipe have been fitted1 the pipe is      
cleaned with the shave hook and paper is
 pasted on1 allowing #a-a_/b inches for 
the joint4 ,both pieces of pipe are     
prepared at the same time as both ends  
are wiped at the same time4             
,,supporting4--,the three pieces of pipe
 should be so wedged together that they 
will not fall apart when put in position
 for wiping4 ,the bricks for supporting 
the pipe are placed the same as in the  
support of the horizontal round joint4  
,the lead pipe ends are laid on the     
bricks4 ,this brings the stop cock in   
the center without any support4 ,if it  
were not for the substantial fit between
 it and the lead pipe1 it would not stay
 in place4 ,solder straps can be put    
over each end of the lead pipe4 ,weights
 can be used to advantage4              
,,wiping4--,when getting the heat up for
 these joints1 pour the solder over the 
two joints and over the stop cock4 ,this

 gets the heat properly distributed1 so 
that both joints can be wiped while the 
brass stop is heated4 ,get the proper   
heat up on one joint and then the other4
 ,come back to the first joint and wipe 
it and then the second one4 ,both joints
 should be wiped so as to have the same 
shape4 ,the novice will experience some 
trouble when wiping this joint in       
getting the brass edge hot4 ,heating up 
the two joints together will in a large 
degree offset this trouble4 ,some       
mechanics take out the lever handle stop
 to lessen the amount of brass to heat4 
,this is never done by a good mechanic  
as the two pieces will never fit        
together again and make a tight joint4  
,if the plug is left in place1 both the 
plug and body will expand equally and   
the pieces will fit perfectly4 ,when    
wiping is started on these joints1 the  
beginner must stay at it continually4   
,when the brass is heated1 the finished 
wiping can be tried over and over again4
 ,if this way is not followed1 the      

beginner will find that most of his time
 will be spent trying to get a heat on  
the brass4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4       
#bi4--,stop cock4   ,,branch ,,joint    
,,materials ,,needed4--,the materials   
necessary to complete this job are as   
follows3 #ab inches of #e_/h-;inch extra
 strong lead pipe for the run2 #f inches
 of #a_/b-;inch extra strong lead pipe  
for the branch2 paste and paper1 and    
solder4  ,,tools ,,necessary4--,the     
tools necessary for this job are the    
saw1 bending irons1 rasp1 tap borer1    
ladle1 wiping cloths1 and the shave     
hook4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4            
#cj4--;,branch joint4                   
,,preparation4--,the preparation of this
 joint requires the skill of the        
beginner more than any of the preceding 
joints4 ,the tapping of the #e_/h pipe  
for the branch connection1 pasting and  
cutting the paper1 require the utmost   
care and precision4 ,the #e_/h-;inch    
pipe is tapped with the tap borer in the
 center4 ,the tap borer is used by      

grasping the handle firmly and putting  
the cutting point on the mark and then  
pressing down on the handle4 ,this      
forces the point into the lead4 ,now    
turn the tool and a piece of lead will  
be bored out4 ,continue this operation  
and a hole will very soon appear in the 
lead4 ,a hole just large enough to allow
 the bending irons to enter is made4    
,the opening of the hole is completed   
with the bending iron1 working the lead 
back slowly into place4 ,do not attempt 
to drive the lead back around the hole  
with a few strokes4 ,one bending iron is
 inserted and this iron is struck with  
another iron or hammer4 ,after a number 
of strokes the opening will be of       
sufficient size4 ,the bent end of iron  
is inserted into the hole and the bent  
part enters the bore of the pipe4 ,this 
iron is struck in such a way as to force
 the lead around the hole up1 rather    
than back4 ,now with the straight end of
 irons open the sides4 ,when the wall of
 pipe has been driven up a little the   

hole can be enlarged by driving back the
 lead4 ,this procedure will form a      
collar around the hole to steady the    
branch pipe4 ,good workmanship will     
result in having a good substantial     
collar around the opening4 ,the branch  
should now be fitted4 ,clean the pipe   
with the shave hook for about #b inches 
on each side of the opening4 ,with      
compasses set at #a-a_/h inches1 mark   
off a space on each side of the branch  
on the run1 or on the #e_/h-;inch pipe4 
,on the sides of the pipe the two lines 
should be joined with an even and       
symmetrical curve4 ,a good way to make  
this curve is with the shave hook4 ,now 
take a folded piece of paper and cut out
 the shape of one-half of the joint1    
then open the fold and the entire       
ellipse will be made4 ,when this paper  
is cut1 a sharp knife is used1 otherwise
 a ragged edge will be made and a good  
finish of joint is impossible4 ,the     
paper is now pasted and put on the pipe4
 ,the surplus paste on the edge of the  

paper should be wiped off with the      
fingers before the paper is put on the  
pipe4 ,this prevents any paste squeezing
 out on the joint4 ,the branch is now   
taken and perfectly fitted into the run4
 ,the end is cleaned with the shave hook
 and paper is pasted on the pipe1       
leaving #a-a_/h inches of cleaned       
surface for wiping4 ,the paste and the  
paper should now be allowed to dry4 ,the
 position for wiping this joint is to   
have the run horizontal and the branch  
on an angle of #de deg4 pointing away   
from the wiper4 ,figure #cj will bring  
out the above explanation very vividly4 
,,supporting4--,the run of this joint is
 laid flat on the table and the branch  
inserted in its proper place4 ,with one 
hand hold it in place1 with the other1  
use the bending iron1 tap the collar on 
the run against the branch1 wedging it  
in place good and strong so that no     
solder can leak through4 ,if the branch 
is tapered with the rasp as shown the   
joint can be made very tight4 ,the run  

of the pipe is now laid on two bricks as
 was done with the horizontal joint4    
,the branch is laid over on a pile of   
bricks or wood at an angle of #de deg4  
,the best way to secure this joint is to
 pour some half-molten solder on the    
ends of pipe and brick1 making a solder 
clamp4 ,this branch does not need any   
clamp or weight if it is properly       
entered into the run4 ,a strap of solder
 can be run over the end of pipe if     
found necessary4 ,place the catch pan   
under the joint and then the pipe will  
be ready to wipe4  ,,wiping4--,in wiping
 this joint1 the catch cloth is used not
 only to catch the solder as it drops   
off from the pipe1 but also to hold the 
hot solder against the pipe to heat the 
under side of the joint4 ,test the      
solder and see if it is the correct heat
 for wiping4 ,if so1 prepare for wiping4
 ,after heating the ladle1 take some    
solder in it and proceed to drop the    
molten solder on the joint4 ,the ladle  
is moved constantly as the solder is    

dropped on the run and then on the      
branch to get the entire joint to the   
proper heat4 ,as the solder drops off   
from the joint1 it is caught on the     
catch cloth and brought up on the top of
 the joint where it is re-melted by     
dropping hot solder on it4 ,then the hot
 solder is held in the cloth against the
 under side of the joint to get the     
under side properly heated4 ,the solder 
is worked around all parts of the joint4
 ,when the heat is got up sufficiently  
and the solder works freely around the  
joint1 the branch cloth is taken and    
each edge of the joint is wiped clean4  
,any surplus solder is brought up on top
 of the joint and then wiped on the     
catch cloth4 ,this solder is then put on
 the under side of the joint4 ,with the 
branch cloth reach way around the joint 
and wipe each side1 bringing the cloth  
each time to the top and then off the   
joint4 ,the last wipe is directly across
 the top1 wiping off any surplus solder 
that may have accumulated from wiping   

the sides4 ,the difficulty with this    
joint is in getting the top and bottom  
to have an equal amount of solder4 ,with
 a little practice and by watching each 
motion your faults can be noted and     
remedied4 ,if the paper starts to come  
off1 it should be re-papered at once4   
,when the joint is finished1 it should  
be left in position until the solder has
 had time to set and cool1 otherwise the
 branch will break off and considerable 
time will be lost in correcting the     
trouble4  ,,points ,,to ,,remember4--   
,first1 the use of the tap borer4       
,second1 the use of the bending irons4  
,third1 do not allow the bending irons  
to touch the inside walls      of the   
pipe when stretching the opening4       
,fourth1 secure the branch into the run4
       ,fifth1 secure the pipes into    
position for wiping4       ,sixth1      
spread the heat on the edges and the    
bottom of the joint4       ,seventh1    
wipe with the branch cloth4             
,eighth1 cut the paper4       ,ninth1   

mark the outline of the joint4          
,,branch ,,joint ,,placed ,,flat  ,when 
the wiper has mastered the branch joint 
placed at an angle of #de deg41 he can  
proceed to wipe the joint placed in the 
next position1 which is flat4           
,,preparation4--,the preparation of this
 joint is identical with the preceding  
one placed at an angle of #de deg4 ,if a
 new joint is to be prepared1 it would  
be well to pay strict attention to the  
details1 such as keeping the paste on   
the paper only and having the edge of   
the paper cut perfectly smooth and even4
 ,before putting on the paper see that  
the pipe is free from all grease and    
dirt4 ,the paste and paper will stick   
better if all the dirt is removed4 ,the 
branch should be well fitted into the   
run of the pipe so that no solder will  
get into the bore of the pipe4 ,the     
branch should not extend into the run of
 pipe enough to obstruct the bore of it4
 ,if the instructions for preparing the 
pipe are not carried out as detailed1   

the wiper will experience some trouble  
that he may find hard to overcome4      
,,supporting4--,the run can be supported
 on bricks4 ,the branch can be supported
 on a brick placed at its end the same  
height as the run4 ,this will bring the 
joint in the correct flat position4 ,the
 branch should point away from the      
wiper4 ,solder straps can now be poured 
over the ends of each pipe4 ,if weights 
are used to hold the pipe firm instead  
of solder straps1 they should be so     
placed that they will not interfere with
 the hands when wiping4  ,,wiping4--,the
 wiping of this joint is more difficult 
as the beginner will experience trouble 
in heating the bottom and keeping the   
solder on the bottom4 ,solder is dropped
 on the joint and along the pipe so as  
to bring the pipe to the proper wiping  
heat4 ,some solder will accumulate on   
top of the joint4 ,this is melted off on
 the catch cloth and this hot solder    
held against the bottom of the joint4   
,this operation is repeated until the   

bottom as well as the top of the joint  
is heated properly4 ,when the solder can
 be worked freely around the pipe1 the  
branch cloth is taken and each side is  
wiped from the bottom toward the top4   
,solder is accumulated on the top where 
it is wiped off on the catch cloth and  
put on the bottom of the joint4 ,now    
reach way around each side and wipe the 
edge and body of the joint1 a wipe      
across the top completing the joint4    
,the bottom can be wiped with a cross   
wipe also if desired4 ,the top and the  
bottom should be identical4 ,notice     
carefully the drawing of this joint and 
endeavor to have the same lines4 ,the   
perfecting of these joints comes only   
with patient practice4 ,the beginner    
must not get discouraged because of a   
burn or two4 ,as soon as confidence in  
oneself has been gained1 the possibility
 of burning the fingers is entirely     
eliminated4   ,,branch ,,vertical  ,the 
materials1 tools1 and preparation for   
this joint placed in a vertical position

 are just the same1 practically1 as     
those in the preceding branch joints4   
,one or two points wherein they differ  
are mentioned below4 ,to rigidly support
 the joint for wiping1 allow the run of 
the pipe to rest on some bricks as      
before mentioned1 with the branch       
looking up4 ,now take a piece of wood   
and drive a nail through one end of it  
about #a inch from the edge4 ,let this  
nail enter the bore of the vertical     
branch4 ,the wood is allowed to rest on 
the back of the bench or is braced      
against the wall4 ,supporting the pipes 
in this way will allow the wiper perfect
 freedom4 ,when wiping this joint1      
splash the solder on from the ladle as  
on the upright joint4 ,as all the sides 
of this joint can be seen1 it is not a  
difficult matter to make a perfectly    
symmetrical solder bulb4 ,when the      
proper heat is gained1 the top edge of  
the joint is wiped first1 then the lower
 curved edge1 using the branch cloth4   
,the body of the joint is then wiped and

 the joint finished with a cross wipe1  
if necessary4   ,,branch ,,horizontal   
,the next position for this joint is to 
have the branch pipe horizontal and the 
run vertical4 ,the materials1 tools and 
preparation for this joint are the same 
as for the preceding ones4 ,the         
supporting and wiping differ a little4  
,,supporting4--,one end of the run is   
placed on the catch pan4 ,the other end 
is held in place the same way as the    
branch was held in the preceding joint4 
,if the pictures of this joint are      
carefully looked over1 the methods      
employed to hold the pipe will be       
readily noted4 ,the branch is best held 
by inserting one end of a bending iron  
in the bore of the pipe and placing the 
other end of the iron on a brick built  
up to the right height4 ,the iron should
 be weighted to keep the joint from     
swaying4  ,,wiping4--,the solder is now 
dropped on the branch as in the round   
joint1 and splashed on the vertical run 
as in the upright joint4 ,sufficient    

solder is put on the joint to keep the  
edges covered with hot solder4 ,solder  
is worked around the joint until all    
parts of it are thoroughly heated and   
the solder works easily1 then all the   
edges are wiped clean4 ,the top half is 
then wiped evenly and the bottom half   
wiped to match the top half4 ,a cross   
wipe in front completes the joint4 ,when
 this cross wipe is made on any joint1 a
 thick edge of solder must not be left4 
,the edge must be wiped clean4 ,this    
joint should be wiped first with the    
branch pointing to the right and then   
with the branch pointing to the left4   
,it will take the beginner some time to 
master these branch joints1 for not only
 must they be wiped symmetrically for   
the sake of appearances1 but they must  
be wiped while the solder is hot to     
secure a tight joint4 ,a joint that is  
wiped with solder that is too cold will 
be porous and will leak when put under  
pressure4 ,with care the same pipe can  
be used throughout for all the positions

 of this branch joint4   ,,one ,,and    
,,one-,,half-,,inch ,,branch ,,joint    
,upon the completion of the small sized 
branch joint in its various angles1 the 
#a-a_/b-;inch branch joint is to be     
wiped4 ,this branch joint is wiped in   
the same positions as the #e_/h branch  
was wiped4 ,the pipe being larger1 there
 is more solder for the wiper to handle1
 and the edges to keep clean and to wipe
 are longer4  ,,materials               
,,needed4--,the materials needed for    
this job are #ab inches of #a-a_/b-;inch
 light lead pipe for the run1 and #f    
inches of #a-a_/b-;inch pipe for the    
branch1 paste1 paper1 solder1 and catch 
pan4  ,,tools ,,needed4--,the tools     
necessary for this job are the saw1     
rasp1 shave hook1 bending irons1 drift  
plug1 hammer1 ladle1 wiping cloths1 and 
tap borer4  ,,preparation4--,to an      
experienced wiper1 the procedure of     
preparing this joint and wiping it are  
so near like the #e_/h-;branch joint    
that a detailed description would be    

unnecessary2 but for the benefit of the 
beginner1 ,i will repeat the details as 
they apply to this particular joint and 
thereby avoid any error4 ,we will take  
the preparation of the run first4       
,square the two ends of the pipe with   
the rasp4 ,mark off the center of the   
pipe4 ,with the round part of the rasp1 
held at right angles with the pipe1     
proceed to rasp down the crown of pipe  
where the center mark was made4 ,do not 
rasp through the wall of the pipe1 but  
just enough so that the tap borer will  
enter the pipe with only a slight       
pressure4 ,with the tap borer1 tap a    
hole large enough for the bending irons 
to enter4 ,now proceed to enlarge the   
hole1 first forcing the edges up and    
then forcing them back1 making the hole 
larger and making a collar around the   
hole at the same time4 ,continue to open
 the pipe until the aperture is large   
enough for the branch pipe to enter4    
,the bending irons must not come into   
contact with the inside wall of the     

pipe1 for if they do the inside bore    
will be marred and be very ragged4 ,as  
these joints are usually used on waste  
lines1 these ragged places make an ideal
 place for lint and grease to collect   
and cause a stoppage4 ,to make the      
inside of the hole even1 a piece of     
#a_/b-;inch pipe can be used in place of
 the bending irons4 ,to cut out the oval
 from a piece of paper to fit the joint1
 fold the paper and cut out one-half of 
the oval4 ,now unfold the paper and the 
complete oval is obtained4 ,the         
measurements of the oval are taken from 
,fig4 #cj1 #a-a_/h inches each side of  
the branch lengthwise of the run4 ,these
 two lines are connected with a curved  
line as shown4 ,this curved line can be 
made with the shave hook4 ,take the     
large edge of the shave hook and roll it
 along between the lines to be joined4  
,a little practice will perfect one in  
doing this quickly4 ,the beginner should
 make a number of these ovals so that he
 can get them perfect4 ,the graceful    

appearance of this joint depends upon   
the neatness with which it is prepared4 
,i do not want the beginner to think    
that a graceful shape of the joint is   
all that is to be desired or that it is 
the most essential point4 ,further      
along1 perhaps1 more vital requirements 
will be brought out and the beginner    
will be made acquainted with them4  ,the
 ends of the #f-;inch piece are now     
squared with the rasp4 ,the edges of one
 end are rasped off as shown in the     
sketch1 making a wedged fit into the    
run4 ,this end is then cleaned with the 
shave hook4 ,paper is then pasted on to 
cover the pipe except the #a-a_/h inches
 cleaned on the end4 ,this cleaned part 
forms part of the joint1 therefore no   
paste or paper must be put on it4 ,the  
pipe is now fitted into the run and the 
collar beaten against it with the       
bending irons4 ,the run is now cleaned  
with the shave hook for about #c inches 
each side of the center4 ,the paper oval
 cut out is now pasted on the joint4    

,the paste and paper are then allowed to
 dry before they are handled further4   
,,supporting4--,the supporting of this  
joint1 which is placed with the branch  
on an angle of #de deg4 pointing away   
from the wiper1 is not a difficult      
matter4 ,the beginner can use his own   
ingenuity for supporting the pipe if    
conditions do not warrant the using of  
the methods previously described4       
,,wiping4--,the solder should now be    
tested for heat4 ,if the solder is at   
the proper heat1 the ladle is taken and 
heated4 ,take a ladle full of solder and
 drop the solder on the joint4 ,the lead
 of which this branch joint is made is  
considerably lighter than any lead that 
has been used before4 ,therefore1 the   
beginner must drop the solder on        
carefully1 making sure that the solder  
is not dropped on the same spot1 for a  
hole can be burned through the pipe very
 quickly4 ,the ladle must be kept       
moving1 then the solder will not burn   
through the pipe4 ,the heat is got up on

 the pipe by dropping the solder on the 
run and on the branch1 catching the     
surplus solder on the catch cloth and   
heating the under side of the joint with
 it4 ,to form the joint1 distribute the 
solder and then wipe it into shape4     
,notice that ,i said wipe it into shape4
 ,a beginner is very apt to try to push 
or poke it into shape4 ,this must not be
 done as it has a tendency to make the  
joint lumpy4 ,all the edges are wiped   
off clean first1 then the body of the   
joint is shaped and wiped4 ,when forming
 the joint1 be sure that the bottom and 
the top are symmetrical4 ,do not have   
one-half larger than the other4 ,the    
last wiping strokes are made swiftly and
 rapidly4 ,if the wiper will watch his  
movements and note the results and then 
try to improve them1 keeping in mind    
that a symmetrical joint is wanted with 
thin edges1 perfection in wiping will   
come much more quickly than if no       
attention is paid to the strokes made   
when wiping4   ,,branch ,,joint ,,wiped 

,,flat  ,the materials required for this
 joint do not differ from the preceding 
one4 ,if the pipe used for the branch   
joint at a #de deg4 angle is in good    
shape1 it can be used for this joint by 
simply changing positions4 ,the tools   
needed will not be any different4 ,the  
ladle and the wiping cloths1 of course  
will be required4 ,a pair of pliers can 
be used to advantage in picking up the  
hot solder4 ,the wiping cloths should   
receive a little more oil to keep them  
soft and pliable4 ,oil the edges of the 
cloths well4  ,,supporting4--,to support
 this pipe for wiping have each end rest
 on a brick4 ,each end can be weighted  
to hold it in place4  ,,wiping4--,to    
wipe this joint1 proceed to drop the    
solder on the joint4 ,when the pipe is  
thoroughly heated and the solder works  
freely around the pipe the joint can be 
wiped4 ,the procedure is like the       
preceding one4 ,the wiper is cautioned  
to move the ladle constantly while      
dropping the solder4   ,,branch ,,held  

,,vertical  ,after a number of the      
previous joints have been wiped         
successfully1 the pipe is placed in such
 a position that the branch will be     
vertical4 ,the supporting of the pipe to
 hold the joint in this position for    
wiping is very easily done after        
handling the #e_/h-;in4 joint in this   
position4 ,the following points may be  
found helpful3 ,the solder is splashed  
on the joint from the ladle4 ,the top   
edge of the joint is kept hot by keeping
 the solder covering it4 ,when the      
proper heat has been got up1 the top    
edge is wiped first1 then the bottom    
edges both front and back4 ,the body of 
the joint is wiped last and a cross wipe
 finishes the joint4 ,i have found that 
the beginner in many cases1 when this   
joint is reached1 tries to wipe it with 
many short strokes4 ,the habit is a bad 
one and should be stopped as soon as    
noticed4 ,learn to wipe the top edge    
with only two strokes1 the bottom edge  
with not more than four1 the body of the

 joint with four1 and one cross wipe to 
finish4 ,this joint should be finished  
as symmetrically as possible and wiped  
while the solder is hot4   ,,run ,,held 
,,vertically  ,when the vertical branch 
has been conquered and the wiper can get
 a good joint every time it is tried1   
the pipe can be changed to a different  
position4 ,the run is placed in a       
vertical position and the branch        
horizontally to the left4 ,the catch pan
 is put under the end of the pipe4      
,follow the same directions for         
supporting this joint as were given     
under the #e_/h-;in4 branch placed in a 
similar position4 ,the wiping of this   
joint is so nearly like the preceding   
branch joints that ,i will not give any 
instructions at all4 ,this joint is     
finished at the same point that the     
other branch joints are finished4       
,however1 there are one or two matters  
that should be kept in mind4 ,some of   
the small matters are often overlooked  
and should be called to mind            

occasionally4 ,do not allow the solder  
to accumulate in the pan4 ,if the cloths
 are burned1 they should be turned1 or  
new ones made4 ,if the paper has started
 to come off from the pipe1 new paper   
should be put on at once4 ,test the     
solder occasionally and see that it does
 not get too hot4 ,upon completion of   
the joint in this position1 the branch  
joint in its various positions is       
finished4 ,the beginner has found out   
while wiping these various joints a     
number of points that were not mentioned
 in my description4 ,no amount of       
detailed description will make a good   
joint wiper4 ,patience and practice are 
as important in joint wiping as good    
preparation and good solder4  ,,points  
,,to ,,remember4--       ,first1        
materials--#ah inches of #a-a_/b-;in4   
lead pipe4       ,second1 use of tools4 
,third1 keep bending irons away from the
 wall of the pipe4       ,fourth1 make a
 good collar around the opening4        
,fifth1 make a tight fit with branch and

 run4       ,sixth1 hot solder will     
quickly burn through the lead4          
,seventh1 use branch cloth for wiping4  
,eighth1 cut out paper for joint even   
and symmetrical4   ,,bib  ,this joint is
 another brass to lead1 and is the last 
single joint to be wiped in this course 
of joint wiping4  ,,materials           
,,needed4--,the materials required for  
this joint are as follows3 #aj inches of
 #e_/h-;inch extra strong lead pipe2 one
 #a_/b-;inch brass sink bib for lead    
pipe2 one pot of solder1 paste and      
paper1 #a_/b and #a_/b solder1 catch    
pan1 and supports4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #ca4  ,,tools ,,required4--,the  
tools required for this job are the saw1
 rasp1 tap borer1 bending irons1 file1  
ladle1 wiping cloths1 shave hook1 knife 
and rule1 soldering iron4               
,,preparation4--,to prepare the lead    
pipe after cutting from the coil and    
squaring the ends with the rasp is very 
similar to the #e_/h-;inch branch joint4
 ,the center of the pipe is marked and a

 hole is made in it with the tap borer  
large enough to admit the bending irons4
 ,the hole is enlarged with the irons4  
,a good substantial collar is made      
around the hole to hold the bib in      
place4 ,one and one-eighth inches are   
marked off on each side of the branch   
and an easy curve connects the two4 ,the
 paper is then cut out and pasted on the
 pipe after it has been scraped with the
 shave hook4  ,the end of the brass bib 
is filed bright and tinned with the     
soldering iron and #a_/b and #a_/b      
solder4 ,before the tinning is done1    
paper is put on the brass1 leaving only 
#a-a_/h inches exposed4 ,the tinning    
must be thoroughly done1 or it will come
 off and have to be re-tinned4          
,,supporting4--,the bib is fitted into  
the lead opening and the collar is      
forced against the bib to hold it in    
place and prevent any solder from       
leaking through into the bore of the    
pipe4 ,the bib must not extend too far  
into the lead pipe or it will obstruct  

the flow of water4 ,the lead pipe is    
laid on two bricks the same as the round
 joint4 ,the bib is laid on an angle of 
#de deg4 pointing away from the wiper4  
,some bricks can be piled up to the     
right height to hold the bib in place   
and a solder strap can be made to hold  
it steady4 ,the lead pipe can be held   
steady by weighting each end4 ,the catch
 pan is now placed under the joint and  
everything is ready for wiping4         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--;,bib4      
,,wiping4--,when the solder is hot1     
getting the heat on the pipe is started4
 ,solder should be dropped oftener on   
the brass bib than on the lead pipe4 ,it
 takes more heat to heat the brass      
thoroughly than it does the lead4 ,if   
this is followed out1 little difficulty 
will be had in getting up the heat and  
in wiping4 ,use the branch cloth for    
wiping and make sure that all edges are 
perfectly cleaned before making the     
final strokes4 ,as this is the only     
position that the joint will be wiped   

in1 practice should be continued until  
perfect joints can be obtained4         
,,points ,,to ,,remember4--             
,first1 materials needed4       ,second1
 tools needed4       ,third1 use tap    
borer4       ,fourth1 enlarge hole with 
bending irons4       ,fifth1 make       
substantial collar around the opening4  
,sixth1 paper the lead4       ,seventh1 
file the bib1 then paper4       ,eighth1
 tin the bib4       ,ninth1 place in    
position and wipe4   ,,drum ,,trap  ,the
 making of the drum trap will bring out 
the skill of the beginner4 ,the entire  
trap is made of lead pipe4 ,the lead    
will require a great deal of handling4  
,therefore1 care must be exercised in   
all operations to turn the trap out in a
 workmanlike manner4  ,,materials       
,,needed4--,the materials needed to     
complete this job are3 #aj inches of    
#d-;inch #h-pound lead pipe2 #ah inches 
of #a-a_/b-;inch light lead pipe2 paste 
and paper1 support1 solder1 and catch   
pan4  ,,tools ,,needed4--,the tools     

required for this job are3 saw1 rasp1   
bending irons1 shave hook1 bending      
spring1 tap borer1 dresser1 ladle1 drift
 plug1 and wiping cloths4               
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--;,drum trap4
  ,,preparing4--,take the #aj-;inch     
piece of lead pipe and hold it in one   
hand1 in the other hand take a pine     
dresser4 ,strike the lead pipe with the 
dresser4 ,the pipe is struck about #b   
inches from the end and is beaten evenly
 all around4 ,the pipe is then struck   
nearer the end until finally the bore of
 the pipe is almost closed4 ,this closed
 end should be rounding and symmetrical4
 ,to get this shape the pipe must be    
continually moved and turned4 ,one side 
must not be forced in more than the     
other4 ,if there are any dents in the   
pipe or part of the pipe is forced in   
too much it may be driven out as        
follows3 ,take an old piece of          
#a_/b-;inch lead pipe and round one end 
of it with a hammer2 this can be used by
 hitting the inside of the closed end of

 the drum and forcing out the dents4    
,the rounded end of the trap is not     
quite closed and a hole about #c_/d inch
 is left4 ,this opening is closed by    
shaping the edges of it with the knife1 
making them smooth and beveled4 ,then a 
piece of lead is cut out of some scrap1 
the same shape as the hole and fitted   
into it4 ,the top surface of this fitted
 piece should be a little lower than the
 surface of the pipe4 ,strike a circle1 
using the compasses1 the center of the  
circle being the center of the inserted 
piece of lead4 ,the lead inside of this 
circle is shaved clean with the shave   
hook1 including the inserted piece4     
,paper is then pasted outside of the    
circle and should cover entirely the    
rest of the pipe4 ,the inserted piece is
 wiped on the pipe as follows3  ,,wiping
 ,,end4--,stand the #d-;in4 pipe in a   
pan with the rounded end of the pipe up4
 ,be sure that the inserted piece is    
fitted securely4 ,the solder is now     
dropped on the paper and shaved portion 

of the pipe4 ,exercise considerable care
 not to burn a hole in the pipe4 ,as the
 hot solder runs off1 catch some of it  
and draw it back on the joint4 ,when the
 solder can be manipulated freely and   
the pipe is hot1 the joint can be wiped4
 ,the cloth is drawn across the joint1  
cleaning all the edges with one stroke4 
,the joint should be shaped to complete 
the rounding surface of the pipe4 ,the  
joint is comparatively easy and will not
 occupy much time4 ,as soon as it is    
wiped1 cover the solder with paper4     
,this will preserve the freshness of the
 joint until all wiping is completed4   
,,preparing ,,inlet ,,pipe  ,after the  
above joint is completed1 the           
#a-a_/b-;in4 branch inlet pipe is       
prepared and wiped in place4 ,the center
 of this branch is marked on the        
#d-;inch pipe and a hole is tapped in   
the pipe1 using the tap borer4 ,a hole  
large enough to admit the bending irons 
is made4 ,the hole is enlarged with the 
bending irons1 bending the lead first   

up1 then back4 ,a piece of #a_/b-;inch  
iron pipe can be used as a tool to      
finish the opening4 ,the iron pipe is   
larger in diameter than the bending     
irons and leaves a more finished        
surface4 ,the opening is made of        
sufficient size to admit the rasped end 
of the #a-a_/b-;inch pipe4 ,when using  
the irons to enlarge the opening in the 
pipe1 be sure not to bruise any part of 
the trap4 ,the #a-a_/b-;inch pipe is now
 taken4 ,the ends of this pipe are      
squared with the rasp4 ,the drift plug  
is then driven through the pipe to take 
out any bruises or flattened places4    
,the edge of one end is rasped off to   
fit the opening made in the #d-;inch    
pipe4 ,the beginner must strive to make 
a perfect fit4 ,the accuracy with which 
these preparations are made is what     
helps in a large degree to bring about a
 successful job4 ,the next operation is 
to paper the parts not to be wiped4 ,the
 sizes of the joint should be followed  
as shown on the sketch4 ,the pipe is    

first shaved with the shave hook1 after 
which the paper is pasted on4 ,no paste 
is allowed to get on the joint proper4  
,the beginner should by this time have  
formed the habit of being neat with his 
work4 ,therefore the getting of paste on
 the joint surface shows that he is not 
as neat or as far advanced as he should 
be4  ,,supporting4--,the drum is laid   
lengthwise on the bench and blocks are  
put on each side to keep it from        
rolling1 the branch uppermost4 ,the     
#a-a_/b-;inch pipe is held in position  
the same way as the vertical branch was 
held4 ,the catch pan is put under the   
drum to catch the surplus solder4       
,,wiping4--,splash the solder on the    
branch pipe1 also on the drum4 ,the     
burning through of the drum is an easy  
matter4 ,therefore do not keep dropping 
the solder on one place1 but keep the   
ladle moving continually4 ,with the     
catch cloth draw the solder up on the   
branch covering the top edge of the     
prepared surface4 ,splashing the solder 

on this top edge melts the solder       
already on and allows it to run down on 
the #d-;inch pipe where it is caught    
with the cloth and again brought up on  
the top edge of the branch4 ,when the   
solder works freely all around the      
joint1 the top edge is wiped clean and  
even4 ,then any surplus solder is wiped 
off4 ,the bottom edge is next wiped     
clean1 after which the body of the joint
 is wiped into shape1 together with both
 edges4 ,the edges are wiped very thin  
so that when the paper is removed the   
outline of the joint stands out very    
distinctly4 ,a thick edge on a joint    
gives an unworkmanlike appearance to the
 work4 ,the joint is finished with a    
cross wipe4  ,the other joints are      
prepared and wiped the same as the one  
just completed4 ,the #a-a_/b-;inch      
branch connection taken out of the      
bottom of the trap is bent4 ,as this is 
the first time it has been necessary to 
bend lead pipe in these jobs1 ,i will   
cover this operation in detail4 ,the    

pipe is first straightened and the drift
 plug driven through it4 ,the pipe is   
marked where the bend is to be made4    
,the bending spring1 size #a-a_/b       
inches1 is put into the pipe1 the center
 of the spring coming about where the   
bend is to be made4 ,the pipe is then   
heated where it was marked to be bent4  
,the proper heat for this pipe is just  
so that the hand cannot stand being laid
 against it4 ,the pipe is held in the   
hands and on the end nearest the heat is
 hit against the floor at an angle4 ,the
 pipe1 with the first blow1 will start  
to bend4 ,with a few more strokes the   
desired bend will be obtained4 ,the     
bending spring can now be pulled out4   
,put a little water in the pipe1 then   
put one end of the spring in the vise1  
twist the pipe1 and the spring will come
 out when the pipe is pulled away from  
it4 ,the bending spring holds the pipe  
cylindrical while it is being bent4     
,without the spring1 the pipe would be  
badly crushed at the bend and rendered  

almost unfit for service4 ,another good 
way to bend pipe is to plug one end and 
fill the pipe full of sand1 then plug   
the open end4 ,the pipe is then heated  
where the bend is to be made4 ,the pipe 
can then be bent over the knee4 ,when   
all the joints are wiped1 the paper     
should be taken off and the lead cleaned
 with sand and water4 ,the trap is now  
complete except the brass clean-out to  
be soldered on the top4 ,the inside of  
the trap should not have any rough edges
 or drops of solder in it4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--;,drum trap4
  ,there are two other drum traps to be 
made4 ,the materials needed are the same
 as for the above trap except for #ah   
inches more of #a-a_/b-;inch lead pipe4 
,the support1 preparation1 and wiping   
are the same4 ,the beginner by this time
 should feel very well acquainted with  
lead and solder4 ,therefore1 the details
 of these two drum traps can be left for
 the beginner to work out for himself4  
,the sketches are very distinct and     

readable and will be of considerable    
assistance4 ,the beginner should make   
these traps4  ,,points ,,to ,,be        
,,remembered4--       ,first1 use       
#d-;inch lead pipe1 #h pounds to the    
foot4       ,second1 dresser and spring 
are new tools4 ,study their use4        
,third1 gradually work the trap into    
shape with the dresser4       ,fourth1  
plug the hole with a piece of lead pipe4
       ,fifth1 prepare and wipe the     
plugged hole first4       ,sixth1       
prepare and wipe the #a-a_/b-;inch      
branches4       ,seventh1 special care  
should be taken to keep the work neat4  
,eighth1 two ways of using the bending  
spring4       ,ninth1 wipe thin edges on
 joints4       ,tenth1 do not handle    
finished work4       ,eleventh1 clean   
and finish the work neatly4   ,,the     
,,practical ,,use ,,of ,,the ,,preceding
 ,,exercises  ,in the foregoing         
exercises1 ,i have confined myself to   
the actual work of making the various   
joints4 ,now ,i will explain the        

practical use of them4  ,,soldering     
,,iron4--,the soldering iron is a tool  
that is used in work that requires heat 
to fuse solder and the parts to be      
united4 ,every plumber should have at   
least two irons in his kit4  ,,the ,,cup
 ,,joint4--,while the cup joint is not  
employed to any great extent in modern  
plumbing1 yet it has its use in the     
installation of some fixtures4          
,lavatories1 bath and toilets are       
sometimes connected with a short piece  
of lead on the supply4 ,the tail pieces 
on the faucets can be soldered on the   
lead by means of a cup joint4 ,a cup    
joint well made with a deep cup and the 
solder well fused is as strong as a     
wiped joint in a place of this kind4    
,the evil of the cup joint is that some 
mechanics will only fuse the surface and
 leave the deep cup only filled with    
solder and not fused4 ,this makes a     
tight joint1 but extremely weak4 ,on    
tin-lined pipe and block-tin pipe the   
cup joint is commonly used4 ,when making

 a cup joint on block-tin pipe the      
soldering iron must not touch the pipe  
and fine solder should be used4 ,when   
tin-lined pipe is being soldered1 the   
tin lining must not be melted4          
,,overcast ,,joint4--,the overcast joint
 is not commonly used1 but when there is
 considerable lead work to do the       
plumber finds it very handy in places   
where a wiped joint would take up too   
much room4 ,we use it for an exercise   
for the reason that it teaches the      
beginner very rapidly the use and       
control of the soldering iron4  ,,flat  
,,seams4--,these seams are used in the  
construction of roof flashers1 tanks    
7,sec4 #cc1 ,chapter ,,xviii7 and lead  
safe wastes 7,sec4 #bg1 plumbing code74 
,a hatchet iron is sometimes used on    
these seams4  ,,wiping ,,cloths4--,the  
wiping cloths made of whalebone ticking 
make good1 serviceable1 and lasting     
cloths4 ,oil only should be used to     
break the cloth in4 ,moleskin cloths are
 very good1 but they are very hard to   

get and cost considerably more4 ,a      
plumber should always keep a good supply
 of ticking cloths on hand4 ,the cloths 
are used only for wiping4  #a_/b-;,,inch
 ,,round ,,joint4--,this joint is the   
one most often required in actual       
practice4 ,it serves to connect two     
pieces of lead pipe of the same or      
different diameters4 ,it is also used to
 connect lead and other materials of    
which pipe is made4 ,the workman1 when  
he gets out on the job1 finds that his  
work cannot be supported for wiping in  
such an easy and convenient position as 
illustrated in the exercises4 ,it will  
be necessary to wipe the joint at almost
 every conceivable angle and position4  
,the workman must employ his ingenuity  
to overcome any difficulties that may   
arise4 ,any draught of air should be    
avoided as it will make the solder cool 
quickly4  #b-;,,inch ,,brass            
,,ferrule4--,when it is found necessary 
to connect cast-iron and lead pipe1 it  
is done by means of a brass ferrule     

wiped on the lead pipe4 ,this joint is a
 very common joint and is found on sink1
 tray1 and bath connections1 as well as 
in many other connections that have lead
 and cast-iron pipes for wastes4        
#d-;,,inch ,,brass ,,ferrule4--,the     
#d-;inch brass ferrule wiped on lead    
pipe is found under almost every closet4
 ,there is generally a piece of lead    
connecting the toilet with the soil     
pipe4 ,therefore1 a brass ferrule is    
wiped on the lead and the ferrule       
connected with the soil pipe4 ,this     
joint is also found on rain leader      
connections near the roof1 connecting   
the gutter with the rain leader stack4  
,,stop ,,cock4--,when a shut-off is     
required in a line of lead water pipe1  
these joints are used4 ,where it is     
necessary to joint lead and brass1 this 
joint is required4 ,the art of heat     
control over the lead and the brass is  
the essential point in these joints4    
,,branch ,,joints #e_/h ,,and #a_/b     
,,inches4--,where it is found necessary 

to take a branch from a water pipe1 this
 joint is used at the connection4 ,in   
practice1 this joint may have to be     
wiped in positions that are rather      
difficult to reach1 so the wiping of    
joints in the positions called for in   
the exercises is exceedingly good       
practice4  ,,branch ,,joints #a-a_/b    
,,inches4--,these joints are very common
 and are found on waste and vent pipes4 
,they are also found on urinal          
flush-pipe connections where the branch 
often is brass and the run lead4        
,,bib4--,when lead supplies are run     
directly to the bib on a sink1 this     
joint is necessary4 ,it becomes         
necessary to wipe in a piece of brass   
for a brass-pipe connection from a lead 
pipe1 in which case this joint is called
 for4  ,,the ,,drum ,,trap4--,the drum  
trap is used under sinks1 baths1        
showers1 and trays4     ,,chapter ,,vii 
,,laying ,,terra-,,cotta ,,and ,,making 
,,connections ,,to ,,public ,,sewers4   
,,water ,,connections ,,to ,,mains ,,in 

,,streets   ,,terra-,,cotta ,,pipe  ,one
 of the first pieces of work which a    
plumber is called upon to do1 when      
building operations commence1 is to run 
in the terra-cotta sewer from the street
 sewer into the foundation wall4        
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--;,connection
 of house sewer to main sewer4  ,when   
the street sewer is laid1 ,y-branches   
are left every few feet4 ,a record of   
the branches and their distance from the
 manhole is kept generally in the       
,department of ,sewers or ,public       
,works4 ,therefore1 the exact           
measurement of any branch can be        
obtained and the branch found by digging
 down to the depth of the sewer4 ,a     
branch should be chosen so that the pipe
 can be laid with a pitch1 the same way 
as the main sewer pitches4 ,this can be 
done by getting the measurements of two 
of these branches and choosing the one  
that will serve best4 ,when there is a  
brick sewer in the street and no        
branches left out1 the sewer must be    

tapped wherever the house sewer requires
 it 7see ,fig4 #ce74  ,,digging         
,,trenches4--,after the measurements and
 location of the house sewer and sewer  
branches are properly located1 the      
digging of the trench is started4 ,the  
methods employed to dig the trench vary 
according to the nature of the ground1  
that is1 whether it is sand1 rock1 or   
wet ground4 ,a line should be struck    
from sewer to foundation wall to insure 
a straight trench4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #cf4--,laying of plank for trench
 dug in sandy ground4  ,,sandy          
,,ground4--,if the ground is sandy1 the 
sides of the trench will have to be     
sheathed or planked and the planks      
braced so as to prevent the bank caving 
in4 ,as the trench is dug deeper1 the   
planks are driven down4 ,when the trench
 is very deep1 a second row of planking 
is necessary4 ,the planks must be kept  
well down to the bottom of the trench   
and close together1 otherwise the sand  
will run in4 ,it is well to test the    

planking as progress is made by tamping 
the sand on the bank side of the planks4
  ,,gravel4--,where the ground is mostly
 gravel and well packed1 the above      
method of planking is unnecessary4 ,the 
bank should have a few stringers and    
braces to support it4 ,when only a few  
planks are used the term corduroy the   
bank is used 7see ,fig4 #cg74           
,illustration3 ,,fig4                   
#cg4--;,arrangement of plank for gravel4
  ,,rock4--,where rock is encountered1  
blasting is resorted to4 ,the plumber   
should not attempt to handle a job      
requiring the use of powder4 ,it is     
dangerous in the hands of a person not  
used to handling it and the work should 
be sublet4  ,a sketch of the two methods
 above for planking trenches is given   
and a little study will make them clear4
   ,,laying ,,of ,,pipe  ,the pipe      
should be laid on the bottom of the     
trench to a pitch of at least #a_/d inch
 per foot fall4 ,in laying1 the start   
should be made at the street sewer with 

hubs of pipe toward the building4 ,the  
trench should be dug within a few inches
 of the bottom of the pipe1 then as the 
pipe is laid the exact depth is dug out1
 the surplus dirt being thrown on the   
pipe already laid4 ,the body length of  
pipe should be on solid foundation4 ,a  
space dug out for each hub as shown in  
,fig4 #ch allows for this1 also allows  
for the proper cementing of joints4 ,to 
get the proper pitch of pipe1 take for  
example #a_/d inch per foot1 a level #b 
feet long with a piece of wood or metal 
on one end #a_/b inch thick will answer4
 ,the end with the #a_/b-;inch piece on 
should be on the lower hub and the other
 end resting on the hub of the pipe     
about to be put in place4 ,when the     
bubble shows level1 then the pipe has   
the #a_/d-;inch fall per foot4 ,if a    
tile trap is used1 it should be laid    
level1 otherwise the seal will be       
weakened or entirely broken4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--,laying     
terra-cotta pipe4  ,,cutting4--,the     

cutting of tile is not difficult1 but   
must be done carefully or the pipe will 
crack or a piece will be broken out1    
thus making the pipe worthless4 ,to cut 
tile or terra-cotta pipe1 stand the pipe
 on end with the hub down1 fill the pipe
 with sand to the point of cutting4     
,with a sharp chisel and hammer cut     
around the pipe two or three times and  
the pipe will crack around practically  
straight4  ,,cementing4--,if the pipe is
 free from cracks1 the only possible way
 roots can get into the inside of       
terra-cotta pipe is through the cement  
joint4 ,there are two ways of making    
these joints4 ,both ways are explained  
below and are used today on terra-cotta 
work4       ,first4--,the bottom of the 
hub of pipe in place is filled with     
cement and the straight end of the next 
piece of pipe is laid in      place1    
then more cement is placed into the hub 
until the space      between the hub and
 the pipe is filled4 ,in a trench1 a    
trowel is      rather unhandy to work   

with1 while the hands can be used to    
better      advantage4 ,the cement can  
be forced into place with the hands and 
then surfaced with a trowel4 ,the rest  
of the operation is to swab      out the
 inside joint to remove any cement that 
perchance was forced      through the   
joint 7see ,fig4 #ci74 ,the cement used 
should be #a_/b      cement and #a_/b   
clean sharp sand4       ,second4--,half 
of the space between the hub and the    
pipe is first      packed with oakum and
 then the other half filled with cement 
of the      same proportions as that    
used above4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4      
#ci4--,showing use of the swab4         
,,laying ,,pipe ,,in ,,tunnels          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--,pushing    
pipe through tunnel4  ,if the pipe must 
be run through a tunnel and there are   
perhaps three or four joints that cannot
 be reached1 they should be put into    
place as follows3 ,the pipe should be   
laid in the trench from the sewer in the
 street as far as the tunnel1 then start

 at the other end of the tunnel4 ,lay   
the first piece of pipe on a board1     
lengthwise with the board1 nail two     
cleats in the shape of a  7,fig4 #dj7   
for the pipe to rest in2 push this pipe 
and board into the tunnel and then      
cement into its hub a second piece2 push
 the two pieces in #b feet1 cement a    
third length into the second piece and  
push the three pieces along #b feet4 ,a 
workman can be on the sewer side of the 
tunnel and receive the end of the pipe  
as it is pushed through the tunnel1 and 
steer the pipe into the hub4 ,the joints
 in the tunnel will not be as secure as 
those outside4 ,this explains how pipe  
is run through a tunnel4                
,,connecting4--,the proper method of    
connecting the house sewer with the     
street sewer is shown in ,fig4 #ce4 ,the
 connection should be made above the    
spring of the arch4 ,the pipe should    
extend well into the sewer so the sewage
 will discharge into water and not drop 
on sides4  ,,inserting4--,to insert a   

tee in a line of pipe already laid1     
pursue the following method 7see ,fig4  
#da73 ,cut or break out one joint1      
preserve the bottom of the hub of pipe  
that is in4 ,cut away the top of the hub
 on the pipe to be inserted1 then place 
the pipe in position and turn around    
until the part of the hub on the piece  
inserted is on the bottom4 ,the bottom  
part of the pipes now will have a hub to
 receive the cement4 ,the top part will 
have to be cemented carefully1 as it is 
within easy access4 ,this can be done   
without difficulty4  ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #da4--;,inserting length of pipe4
  ,while laying the pipe a stopper is   
used to prevent the sewer gases and foul
 odors from escaping4 ,this stopper     
sometimes is of tile1 sometimes a plug  
of paper or burlap4 ,this stopper is    
sometimes cemented in by inexperienced  
men and the trouble created can only be 
guessed at4 ,if a stopper is used1 the  
workman must see that it is taken out4  
,,refilling4--,after the pipe is laid   

and cemented1 it should be covered and  
allowed to stand #bd hours to give the  
cement time to harden4 ,the dirt should 
then be thrown in and settled by means  
of a tamper or by flooding with water4  
,the planks should not be taken out     
until the trench is well filled4 ,to    
pull the plank1 a chain or shoe and     
lever will have to be used4 ,where the  
tunnels are1 dirt will have to be rammed
 in with a long rammer1 care being taken
 not to disturb the pipe4 ,if the refill
 is not well rammed and tamped1 the     
trench will settle and cause a bad      
depression in the street surface4       
,,terra-,,cotta ,,pipe4--,terra-cotta   
pipe should be straight1 free from fire 
cracks1 and salt-glazed4 ,the inside of 
the hub and outside of the plain end    
should not be glazed4 ,this allows the  
cement to take hold4       ,,table ,,of 
,,standard ,,terra-,,cotta ,,pipe       
----------------------------------------
-------------------      ,size          
,thickness1  ,weight per ft41  ,depth of

  ,annular space               inches   
pounds        socket                    
----------------------------------------
-------------------       #c            
#a_/b            #g         #a-a_/b     
#a_/d       #d          #a_/b           
#i         #a-e_/h       #c_/h       #e 
#e_/h           #ab         #a-c_/d     
#c_/h       #f          #e_/h           
#ae         #a-g_/h       #c_/h       #h
          #c_/d           #bc         #b
           #c_/h       #i               
#ac_/af         #bc          #b         
#c_/h      #aj          #g_/h           
#ce         #b-a_/h       #c_/h      #ab
        #a              #de             
#b-a_/d       #a_/b      #ae            
#a-a_/h          #fj          #b-a_/b   
#a_/b      #ah        #a-a_/d           
#he          #b-c_/d       #a_/b        
#bj        #a-c_/h         #ajj         
#c           #a_/b                      
----------------------------------------
-------------------  ,terra-cotta pipe  
should not be permitted in filled-in    

ground4  ,roots of trees find their way 
into the pipe through cracks or cement  
joints4 ,when the roots get inside of   
the pipe they grow until the pipe is    
stopped up4 ,as the roots cannot be     
forced or wired out1 the sewer must be  
relaid4 ,the writer has seen a solid    
mass of roots #aj feet long taken out of
 a tile sewer4  ,in case terra-cotta is 
laid in filled-in ground1 there is only 
one way to insure the pipe from         
breaking4 ,the pipe should be laid on   
planks4 ,then1 if the ground settles1   
the pipe will not be broken4   ,,water  
,,connection ,,and ,,service  ,,tapping 
,,main4--,the water service for a       
building is put in at the same time as  
the sewer is connected and run into the 
house4 ,for a #a-a_/d-service pipe a    
#a_/b-;inch tap is furnished4 ,the water
 company taps the main1 at the expense  
of the plumber1 and inserts a           
corporation cock4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4
 #db4--,showing water main and sewer in 
same ditch4  ,,digging ,,trench4--,the  

trench for the water main should be dug 
at least #d-a_/b feet deep or below     
frost level and the trench should be    
kept straight4 ,when the sewer is put in
 at the same time1 one side of the sewer
 trench can be cut out after it is      
filled up to the level of the water     
main4 ,the water pipe can then be laid  
on this shelf at least #b feet away from
 the original trench of sewer4          
,sometimes the surface of the ground    
must not be disturbed4 ,in this case    
small holes are dug and the pipe is     
pushed through or driven through under  
that portion not dug4 ,these places are 
often tunnelled 7see ,fig4 #db74  ,in   
digging in city streets1 care should be 
taken not to destroy any of the numerous
 pipes encountered4   ,,laying ,,pipe   
,the trench should be dug straight out  
from the house so the pipe can be laid  
and the main tapped straight out from   
the building4 ,the water companies keep 
a record of these taps so that in case  
of trouble the street can be opened and 

the water shut off4 ,in laying the water
 service1 the pipe from the curb to the 
main should be laid first4 ,this takes  
in all the pipe in the street4 ,at the  
main there is a shut-off in the tap4    
,another stop with ,t or wheel handle   
must be placed just inside the curb     
line4 ,this is called a curb cock 7see  
,fig4 #dc74 ,one trench either outside  
or inside of the curb should be at least
 #ae feet long so that a full length of 
pipe can be laid in the trench4 ,it is  
generally impossible to open a trench   
the full length the pipe is to be run4  
,a trench #aj feet long is dug1 then #h 
feet left1 and another #aj- or #h-;foot 
trench is dug and the two are connected 
with a small tunnel and pipe pushed     
through4 ,when the pipe has been put in 
place between the curb and main1 the    
water is turned on and the pipe flushed 
out4 ,the valve at the curb should now  
be shut off1 and if there are any leaks 
they will show4 ,the street part is now 
ready to fill in4 ,at this point ,fig4  

#dc should be studied4 ,note the piece  
of lead attached to the pipe and        
corporation cock4 ,this piece of lead   
should be extra heavy and always laid in
 place the shape of the letter ,s or    
goose neck4 ,in case the street should  
settle1 this piece of lead will allow   
for it4 ,these lead connections or goose
 necks are made as follows3 #c ft4 of   
#e_/h lead pipe2 #a-;inch brass solder  
nipple 7wiped on72 one brass corporation
 cock coupling 7wiped on74  ,,laying    
,,pipe4--,this lead connection can be   
screwed on the pipe after the pipe is   
laid1 then bent and coupled on the main 
with the coupling4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #dc4--,water main from street to 
foundation wall4  ,after the pipe has   
been tested as far as the curb1 the     
trench in the street can be filled as   
described later4 ,the pipe from the curb
 to the building can now be laid4 ,if   
necessary to push the pipe through a    
tunnel1 the end of the pipe should first
 be capped4 ,start by screwing a length 

in the curb cock4 ,if the other end of  
the pipe comes in a tunnel an additional
 length must be put on before putting in
 place so that an end will come in the  
open trench4 ,when the building is      
reached and before the stop cock is put 
on1 the valve at the curb should be     
opened full and the pipe flushed out4   
,the valve can then be put on and water 
turned on to test the pipe4  ,,setting  
,,curb ,,box4--,a cast-iron box1        
adjustable length1 with cover should    
extend from the curb cock to the        
surface4 ,this makes it possible with a 
long rod to control the water service   
into the building4 ,to set a curb box   
some flat stones should be laid around  
the curb cock and the box set on these  
stones4 ,then the space around the box  
and pipe should be closed in with brick 
or other covering to keep the sand from 
washing in on the curb cock4 ,the box   
should be adjusted for height and then  
held in place by placing the curb key   
rod in place and holding the rod and box

 while the trench is filled4 ,the refill
 should be tamped evenly on all sides of
 the box4  ,,refill4--,in refilling the 
trench around the corporation cock and  
goose neck1 the greatest care should be 
taken4 ,the writer has seen cases when  
indifferent workmen have tossed heavy   
stones in the ditch and broken off the  
corporation cock or destroyed the goose 
neck4 ,after the pipe is covered with   
#ah inches of refill and tunnels have   
been filled1 water can be run in the    
trench and will settle the refill4      
,there are a number of special points   
concerning water services and taps at   
mains that should not be overlooked4    
,take for example a water service pipe  
which must be run through ground where  
electricity is escaping under trolley   
tracks1 around power houses1 etc4 ,the  
electricity will enter the pipe and     
wherever it leaves the pipe a hole is   
burned4 ,the surface of the pipe in a   
short time will be full of small pith   
marks and will soon leak4 ,a good way to

 add to the life of the pipe under these
 conditions is to make a star of copper 
and solder it on to the pipe in the     
street4 ,another piece of copper should 
be put on the pipe near the building4   
,the electricity will leave the pipe by 
way of the points on the star4 ,this    
method may not be a cure for            
electrolysis1 but will add to the life  
of the pipe4 ,another method employed is
 to put the pipe in the center of a     
square box1 then fill the box with hot  
pitch4 ,when this is hardened the pipe  
will have a covering that will keep out 
any moisture and bar electricity to a   
marked degree4  ,,materials             
,,used4--,galvanized steel pipe does not
 last under ground4  ,galvanized iron1  
heavy lead1 and brass are used4 ,wooden 
pipes were once used and stood years of 
service4 ,no service smaller than       
#a-a_/d should be used4  ,when the water
 service pipe passes through the        
foundation wall1 the pipe should not be 
built in1 but a small arch should be    

built over the pipe or a piece of ,,xx  
cast-iron pipe can be used as a sleeve  
7,fig4 #dd74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4     
#dd4--;,free space around pipe passing  
through wall4  ,,points ,,to            
,,remember4--   ,,sewer ,,installation  
,first1 select good sound pipe and      
fittings4       ,second1 locate branch  
connection in street sewer4             
,third1 lay out run of house sewer4     
,fourth1 take out necessary permits from
 departments of sewer4       ,fifth1 dig
 trench in the street1 then into the    
house4       ,sixth1 lay pipe and cement
 joints4       ,seventh1 refill trench1 
tamping every foot4       ,eighth1      
cast-iron pipe for sewer is found under 
another heading4   ,,water ,,service    
,first1 take out necessary permits4     
,second1 list material and deliver to   
job4       ,third1 lay out and dig      
trench4       ,fourth1 have main tapped4
       ,fifth1 lay pipe to curb and     
test4       ,sixth1 fill in street      
trench4       ,seventh1 lay pipe into   

building and test4       ,eighth1 set   
curb box4       ,ninth1 refill trench4  
,tenth1 thoroughly consider any special 
conditions4       ,street               
,sewer4--,large pipe in streets to      
receive all soil and      waste from    
buildings4       ,house                 
,sewer4--,conveys sewage from building  
to street sewer1      extends from      
foundation wall to sewer4       ,street 
,main4--,water pipe running parallel    
with the street1      belonging to the  
water company4       ,service           
,pipe4--,runs from the street main into 
the building4       ,corporation        
,cock4--,brass stop tapped into street  
main4       ,goose ,neck4--,lead pipe   
which connects the street main and      
service      pipe4       ,trench4--,hole
 dug to receive pipe4       ,main       
,tapped4--,hole drilled through wall of 
main and a thread made      on it while 
pressure is on4       ,curb             
,cock4--,brass shut-off placed at curb4 
,solder ,nipple4--,piece of brass pipe  

with thread on one end and      plain on
 the other end which connects lead and  
iron4       ,coupling4--,fitting which  
connects two pieces of pipe4       ,stop
 ,cock4--,brass fitting for stopping    
flow of water4       ,curb ,box4--,iron 
box extending from curb cock to surface4
       ,curb ,key4--,a long key to fit  
in side of curb box to operate curb     
cock4       ,swab4--,stick with ball of 
rags or paper on one end4     ,,chapter 
,,viii  ,,installing ,,of ,,french ,,or 
,,sub-,,soil ,,drains   ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #de4--,sub-soil drain4  ,when a  
building is erected on a site that is   
wet or springy1 some means of carrying  
off the surplus water in the ground must
 be provided for1 or the basement of the
 building will be flooded with water4   
,for the thorough understanding of the  
methods employed in laying a drain of   
this kind1 ,i will go over it carefully 
and the beginner can read it and then   
study it1 and understand just how it is 
done4 ,a site may appear to be dry on   

the surface of the ground and yet be    
very wet under the surface4 ,if no      
information can be had regarding the    
site1 it is always well to drain the    
site if it is on a slope or near a body 
of water and on the water shed of a     
river or lake4 ,if a building is a large
 one and the foundation goes down very  
deep1 the site should always be drained4
 ,the drain is laid under the basement  
floor and around the outside of the     
foundation wall on a level with or lower
 than the basement floor4 ,the value of 
draining a building site when the       
building is first started is very often 
overlooked4 ,the cost of the drain will 
be saved in a few years as the basement 
will be free from all excessive         
dampness4 ,the expense of installing a  
sub-soil after the building is up and in
 use is great as well as inconvenient4  
,the drain is called sub-soil drain on  
account of its location under the ground
 and on account of its duty of taking   
off all surplus water that is           

underground4 ,with the surface water    
taken off by the surface drains and the 
sub-soil drained by the sub-soil drains1
 a wet building site can be made        
practically dry 7see ,fig4 #de74        
,,materials ,,used ,,in ,,sub-,,soil    
,,construction4--,the object of the     
drain is to collect water and carry it  
away from the building by means of      
pipes4 ,terra-cotta pipes1 with or      
without hubs1 are used4 ,perforated tile
 pipe is sometimes used4 ,this pipe is  
unglazed terra-cotta pipe with #a-;inch 
holes in the sides about #c or #d inches
 from the center4 ,these holes allow the
 surplus water to enter the bore of the 
pipe and thus be carried off beyond the 
building site4  ,when the sub-soil of a 
small building needs draining1 the      
trenches made for the house drain and   
its branches are used as a drain in the 
following manner3 ,the trenches are dug 
deeper than is required for the house   
drain4 ,the trenches are then filled to 
the correct level with broken stones4   

,there is space between these stones for
 the water to find passage to a point   
away from the building4 ,when this      
method is employed1 some provision must 
be made to prevent the house drain from 
settling4 ,when locating the drain1 we  
must consider approximately the amount  
of water that is likely to be in the    
soil and required to be carried off4 ,if
 there is considerable water1 the pipes 
should extend all around the outside of 
the building foundation wall1 also a    
main pipe running under the cellar      
bottom with six branches1 three branches
 on each side4  ,if there is not a great
 deal of surplus water in the soil1 the 
drain around the outside of the         
foundation wall should be put in and one
 drain line running through the basement
 will be sufficient4  ,,laying ,,the    
,,pipe4--,the drain pipe should be      
handled with care1 for it is easily     
broken4 ,the trench should be laid out  
and dug1 then the pipe can be laid in it
 with a grade toward the outlet or      

discharge4 ,if pipes with a hub on one  
end are used1 the hub should not be     
cemented4 ,a little oakum is packed in  
the hub to steady the pipe and keep sand
 out1 the bottom of joint is cemented1 a
 piece of tar paper can be laid over the
 top of the joint to keep the sand out4 
,with joints made this way1 the water   
can find its way to the bore of the pipe
 and yet the sand will be kept out of   
the pipe4 ,as soon as the water gets    
into the bore of the pipe it has a clear
 passageway to some discharge point away
 from the building4 ,if tile pipes      
without any hubs are used1 some covering
 should be put around the joint to keep 
out the sand and still allow the water  
to find its way into the pipes4         
,,discharge ,,of ,,sub-,,soil           
,,drain4--,the water that accumulates in
 a sub-soil drain must be carried off to
 some point away from the building4 ,as 
the pipes are generally under the cellar
 bottom and under the house drain1 it is
 very evident that this drain cannot    

discharge into the house drain sewer1   
directly4 ,if the building site is on a 
hill1 the drain can be carried out and  
discharged on the surface at a point    
that is somewhat lower than the level of
 the pipe under the building4 ,where    
this cannot be done1 it will be         
necessary to have the different lines of
 pipes discharge into a pit4 ,the water 
is accumulated in this pit until it is  
filled1 then it will automatically empty
 itself as later explained4  ,,pit      
,,construction4--,the pit for the       
sub-soil water is constructed of cement4
 ,a pit #b feet square or #b feet in    
diameter and #c feet deep will answer   
all requirements4 ,a pit of this depth  
will allow a pitch for all lines of     
pipe1 and is large enough for ordinary  
installations4 ,the pit is built up to  
the surface of the cemented floor of the
 basement and covered with a removable  
iron cover4  ,,cellar ,,drainer ,,or    
,,pump4--,a cellar drainer is employed  
to empty the above-mentioned pit4 ,the  

cellar drainer works automatically4     
,when the pit is filled with water1 the 
drainer operates and empties the pit and
 discharges the water into a sink or    
open sewer connection4 ,when the pit is 
emptied1 the drainer shuts off4 ,the    
cellar drainer is operated by water     
pressure4 ,when the valve is opened1 a  
small jet of water is discharged into a 
larger pipe4 ,the velocity of this small
 jet of water creates a suction and     
carries along with it some of the water 
in the pit4 ,this suction continues     
until the tank is empty4 ,there should  
always be a strainer on the suction     
pipe1 also on the supply pipe1 to       
prevent any particles of dirt getting   
into the valve4 ,the pipes leading to   
and from the drainer should empty into  
an open sink where it can be seen4      
,there is a possibility of the drainer  
valve leaking and then the water        
pressure will leak through it1 causing a
 waste of water4 ,if this leakage can be
 seen where it discharges1 then the     

trouble can be rectified4 ,the cellar   
drainer is connected directly with the  
water pressure and should have a valve  
close to the connection to control the  
supply4     ,,chapter ,,ix  ,,storm     
,,and ,,sanitary ,,drainage ,,with      
,,sewage ,,disposal ,,in ,,view   ,the  
accompanying drawing of storm and       
sanitary drains should be studied in    
detail by the reader4 ,the location of  
each trap and fitting should be studied 
carefully and the reason that it is put 
in that particular place should be      
thoroughly understood4 ,below1 each plan
 has been taken and gone over in detail1
 bringing out the reasons for fittings  
and traps1 also the arrangement of the  
piping4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4     
,the first thing to note in ,fig4 #df is
 the number and kinds of fixtures to be 
drained4 ,there is in the basement a set
 of three-part wash trays4 ,this will   
require a #b-;inch waste and a          
#a-a_/b-;inch vent4 ,there is in the    
drawing a #b-;inch waste extending to   

the fixtures above4 ,on the same line is
 a rain leader with a trap showing also 
a #d-;inch floor drain4 ,there are two  
#d-;inch rain leaders on the opposite   
corners of the plan1 in the rear of the 
building4 ,there is a #d-;inch soil     
stack for fixtures above and a #d-;inch 
soil stack in the basement on the same  
line for a basement toilet4 ,on the     
front there are rain leaders in each    
corner4 ,these will be connected outside
 of the house trap 7this feature should 
be noted74 ,the outlets that are to     
discharge into the house drain are as   
follows3       ,two #d-;inch rain       
leaders4       ,one #b-;inch sink waste4
       ,one #b-;inch wash tray waste4   
,one #d-;inch floor drain4       ,one   
#d-;inch soil pipe4       ,one #d-;inch 
closet connection4       ,two #d-;inch  
front rain leaders to discharge into    
house      sewer4  ,if we were to       
install this job1 we would first locate 
each pipe that enters the house drain4  
,the lowest outlet would be particularly

 noted1 in this case the #d-;inch floor 
drain4 ,from this drain we must make    
sure that at least #a_/d inch to the    
foot fall is secured4 ,we must then     
locate the house sewer where it enters  
the foundation wall1 then the work can  
be started4 ,i will not attempt to list 
the material that is necessary for this 
work1 at this time4 ,with all the       
material at hand the house drain is     
started4 ,all of this work is installed 
under the ground1 therefore trenches    
must be dug for all the piping4 ,the    
plumber must lay these trenches out and 
in doing so he must have in mind all    
connections and the fittings he can use 
so that the trenches can be dug at the  
right angle4 ,the trenches must be dug  
allowing a pitch for the pipe4 ,the     
height of the cellar is #h feet below   
the joists4 ,a stick is cut #h feet long
 which can be used to get the trenches  
below the cement floor at the right     
depth4 ,after the digging is completed1 
the house trap1 which is a #f-;inch     

running trap1 is caulked into a length  
of #f-;inch cast-iron pipe4 ,this piece 
of pipe is pushed out toward the sewer  
bringing the trap near the foundation   
wall1 on the inside4 ,the fittings and  
traps and pipe are caulked in place as  
fast as possible4 ,when possible1 the   
joints are caulked outside of the trench
 in an upright position4 ,there are a   
number of different ways to caulk this  
pipe together1 and to make it clear to  
the beginner just how it is done the    
following exercise is suggested4 ,this  
job brings in the caulking of pipes1    
traps1 and fittings in various          
positions4 ,two or three can work on    
this job together4 ,fig4 #dg shows how  
the pipe and fittings are put together1 
which needs no further explanation4     
,therefore1 we will go over in detail   
only the caulking of the joints in the  
various positions4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #dg4  ,,material ,,needed4--,one 
length of #d-;inch extra heavy cast-iron
 pipe1 single hub2 two lengths of       

#d-;inch extra heavy cast-iron pipe1    
double hub2 one running trap1 one full  
,y1 one #d-;inch #a_/d bend2 two        
#d-;inch clean-out screws with iron     
body2 one #d-;inch vent cap2 one        
#d-;inch #a_/h bend2 #cj pounds of block
 lead2 #b pounds of oakum4  ,,tools     
,,required4--,ladle1 asbestos pourer1   
hammer1 cold chisel1 yarning iron1 two  
caulking irons1 furnace and pot4  ,the  
beginner should start at the trap and   
caulk the joints with the trap held in  
place4 ,the cold chisel should be sharp 
as it is used to cut the cast-iron pipe4
  ,to caulk the straight end of         
cast-iron pipe into the hub end and make
 a water-tight joint when the pipe is in
 a vertical position1 the spigot end of 
the pipe is entered into the hub end of 
another piece4 ,a wad of oakum is taken 
and forced into the hub with the yarning
 iron4 ,this piece of oakum is forced to
 the bottom of the hub1 then another    
piece is put in4 ,the oakum is set and  
packed by using the yarning iron and    

hammer4 ,the hub is half filled with    
oakum4 ,the oakum is forced tight enough
 to make a water-tight joint4 ,if the   
oakum used comes in a bale1 pieces of it
 will have to be taken and rolled into  
long ropes about #ah inches long1 the   
thickness of the rope corresponding with
 the space between the hub and the pipe4
 ,if rope oakum is used1 the strands of 
the rope can be used4 ,after the oakum  
is well packed into place and the pipe  
is lined up and made straight1 molten   
lead is poured in and the hub filled4   
,when the lead has cooled1 set the lead 
with the caulking tool and hammer1      
making one blow on each side of the     
joint4 ,this sets the lead evenly on    
every side4 ,if there is any surplus    
lead1 it can now be cut off1 using the  
hammer and cold chisel4 ,the caulking   
iron is again taken and the lead next to
 the pipe is tamped1 striking the iron  
with the hammer at an angle to drive the
 lead against the pipe4 ,after this has 
been done all around1 the caulking iron 

is held in such a position that the lead
 around the hub will receive the force  
of the blow4 ,after this has been done1 
the center of the lead is caulked and   
the joint should be tight4 ,with a      
little practice1 this can be done very  
rapidly4 ,the lead should be poured in  
while it is very hot4 ,the caulking must
 not be done by hitting heavy blows as  
there is a possibility of splitting the 
hub and thereby rendering the joint     
unfit for use4  ,,caulking ,,joint ,,in 
,,horizontal ,,position4--,it is        
necessary in a great many cases to caulk
 a joint in a position where the lead   
would run out of the joint unless       
provision were made to hold it in4 ,to  
caulk a joint in a position of this     
kind1 the pipe is lined up and secured1 
then the oakum is put in and forced to  
the bottom of the hub4 ,then a joint    
runner1 which is an asbestos rope about 
#b feet long and about #a inch in       
diameter1 is fitted around the pipe and 
forced against the hub where it is      

clamped by means of an attached clamp4  
,the clamp is put on the top of the pipe
 and so arranged that a channel will be 
left in a ,v shape4 ,this channel allows
 the hot lead to run between the        
asbestos runner and the hub4 ,when the  
lead has had a chance to cool1 the      
asbestos runner is taken off4 ,where the
 clamp was1 there will be a triangular  
piece of lead sticking out beyond the   
face of the hub4 ,this piece has to be  
cut off1 but no attempt should be made  
to do so until it has been caulked in   
place and well set2 also the rest of the
 lead should be set4 ,then the cold     
chisel can be used and this extra piece 
of lead taken off4 ,the caulking of the 
lead in this position is the same as in 
the previous position and should be     
carried out closely4 ,the beginner      
should understand that it is necessary  
to have not only the joints tight so    
that running water will not leak out of 
them1 but that the joints must stand a  
water test4 ,the testing of soil stacks 

is explained under another heading4 ,the
 lines of cast-iron pipe depend to a    
considerable extent upon these joints to
 make the whole line rigid4  ,,caulking 
,,of ,,fittings4--,the caulking of      
fittings1 while done the same as a      
straight pipe1 is far more difficult4   
,the improper making of these joints is 
the cause of many leaks4 ,a long sweep  
fitting is caulked without a great deal 
of difficulty4 ,if a short bend fitting 
is used1 the matter of caulking is      
difficult4 ,the fitting is so short that
 it is almost impossible to get a       
caulking iron into the throat4 ,the     
mechanics will have to work at the      
throat from each side until this part   
has been sufficiently caulked4 ,i call  
attention to this point1 for ,i know it 
to be a failure in a large number of    
jobs when it comes to put the test on4  
,in order to caulk the fittings1 they   
must be put in their exact location and 
positions before the lead is poured in1 
for after the lead is once in the       

fitting cannot be moved4 ,when there is 
a series of fittings on a line1 their   
positions in relation to each other must
 be considered before the lead is       
poured4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4  ,fig4 #dh   
shows the same fixture and stack        
connections as ,fig4 #df4 ,two #d-;inch 
lines run through the cellar1 one a     
sanitary drain1 the other a storm drain4
 ,each #d-;inch line has an intercepting
 trap4 ,on the sewer side of these traps
 the two lines are brought together1    
beyond which point the two front rain   
leaders connect2 each of the two front  
leaders is trapped separately4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4  ,fig4 #di   
differs from the preceding one in only  
two points4 ,first1 the two front       
leaders are brought into the cellar and 
connected into the storm drain on the   
house side of the intercepting trap4    
,second1 the storm and sanitary drains  

are connected on the outside of the     
building4  ,fig4 #ej shows the same     
fixtures collected into a #d-;inch house
 drain1 and the rain leaders run        
entirely on the outside of the building4
 ,this plan is a good one as all the    
storm water is kept entirely outside the
 building4 ,if the storm drains are kept
 #e feet away from the cellar walls 7see
 ,plumbing ,code7 the pipes can be of   
tile4 ,another good feature of this plan
 is that all the pipes under the cellar 
are #d-;inch4  ,fig4 #ea is similar to  
,fig4 #df1 the difference being in the  
location of the floor drain and the     
connection of the two rear rain leaders1
 into the house drain4  ,in ,fig4 #eb   
the drains shown take the waste and     
storm water from the apartment building1
 also a building set in the rear4 ,the  
leader pipes in this case are trapped on
 the outside of the wall4 ,the building 
in the rear you will note has a separate
 fresh air inlet and house trap1 and the
 house sewer is continued through the   

front house and connected into the house
 drain of the front building1 on the    
sewer side of the intercepting trap4    
,these drawings should be studied       
carefully and the student should in each
 case list correctly all of the material
 required for the installation of these 
jobs4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4            
#ec4--;,cutting cast-iron pipe4         
,,cutting ,,cast-,,iron ,,pipe4--,to cut
 cast-iron pipe1 a sharp cold chisel and
 hammer are needed4 ,the pipe is marked 
all around1 just where it is to be cut4 
,then it is laid with the part of the   
pipe that is to be cut resting on a     
block of wood4 ,a groove is cut with the
 hammer and chisel around the pipe4 ,one
 person can turn the pipe while the     
other does the cutting4 ,after a little 
experience one man can cut and roll the 
pipe alone4 ,this groove is cut deeper  
and deeper until the pipe breaks apart4 
,if standard pipe is being cut1 a file  
is generally resorted to for cutting the
 groove4 ,on account of the lightness of

 the pipe1 a hammer and chisel will     
crack the pipe lengthwise4 ,when cutting
 extra heavy cast-iron pipe1 a good     
heavy blow must be struck to cause the  
chisel to cut into the iron4 ,after a   
few cuts1 the beginner will understand  
the weight of blow that must be struck  
to cut the pipe quickly4     ,,chapter  
,x  ,,soil ,,and ,,waste ,,pipes ,,and  
,,vents4 ,,tests   ,,soil ,,pipes  ,the 
term soil pipes means pipe that receives
 the discharge from water closets4 ,the 
size of a soil pipe for ordinary        
dwellings should be #d inches4  ,,size  
,,of ,,soil ,,pipes       ,one   to     
three  closets--#d-;inch ,,xx cast-iron4
      ,four  to eight  closets--#e-;inch
 ,,xx cast-iron4      ,eight to twelve  
closets--#f-;inch ,,xx cast-iron4       
,there are cases when #c-;inch ,,xx     
cast-iron pipe is used1 but the practice
 is not recommended4  ,the soil pipe    
should be well supported and held in    
place4 ,the connection between soil pipe
 and closet should be of lead to allow  

for any expansion of settling that might
 take place4  ,,material ,,of ,,soil    
,,pipes4--,soil pipe in common use today
 is made of light cast iron1 tar-coated1
 extra heavy cast iron uncoated and     
coated1 galvanized wrought-iron pipe1   
and steel pipe4 ,the best kind to use   
depends upon the job and place where it 
is to be used4 ,all kinds of bends and  
fittings can be had in any of the       
above-mentioned materials4 ,in choosing 
the material of the pipe that is best to
 use1 the following points should be    
carefully considered4       ,first1 new 
work or overhauling4       ,second1     
temporary or permanent job4             
,third1 construction of building4       
,fourth1 amount allowed for cost of     
materials on job4       ,fifth1 size of 
job1 that is1 the number of toilets4    
,sixth1 size of chases and pipe         
partitions4  ,,location ,,of ,,soil     
,,pipe4--,the location of the soil pipe 
depends to a great extent upon the      
location of the toilets4 ,the soil stack

 should be located on an inside         
partition4 ,the horizontal pipe should  
not run over expensively decorated      
ceilings unless run inside of a trough  
made of copper or sheet lead4 ,as far as
 possible1 the pipes should be confined1
 to runs short1 and the number of bends 
reduced4   ,,soil-,,pipe ,,fittings     
,soil-pipe fittings can be had from     
stock almost to suit the conditions4 ,i 
will enumerate a few4 ,the names of     
these fittings should be familiar to the
 mechanic so that when ordering he can  
give the correct name4 #a_/af1 #a_/h1   
#a_/f1 #a_/d bend1 sanitary tee1 tapped 
tee1 side outlet fitting1 return bend1  
cross branches1 double ,y1 double ,,ty1 
traps4 ,the uses of these cast-iron     
fittings perhaps are obvious1 but a word
 about the use of each one will be of   
service4  ,the #a_/d bend is used to    
change the direction of run of pipe #ij 
deg4 ,a long-sweep #a_/d bend is used on
 work requiring the best practice4      
#a_/h1 #a_/af1 and #a_/f bends are used 

to change the direction of pipe #de     
deg41 #bb-a_/b deg41 and #af-b_/c deg4  
,two #a_/h bends should be used in      
preference to one #a_/d bend where there
 is sufficient room4 ,side outlet #a_/d 
bend is used for waste connection4 ,they
 can be had with an outlet on either    
side of the heel4 ,their use is not     
recommended4  ,return bends are used on 
fresh-air inlets4 ,tees are used for    
vents only4 ,ys are used wherever       
possible4 ,the use of a ,y-branch       
together with an #a_/h bend for a #ij   
deg4 connection with the main line is   
always preferable to a ,,ty or1 as they 
are commonly called1 sanitary ,t4 ,a    
tapped fitting gets its name because it 
is tapped for iron pipe thread4 ,tapped 
fittings are used for venting and should
 not be used for waste unless the tap   
enters the fitting at an angle of #de   
deg4  ,these fittings and pipe are      
joined by first caulking with oakum and 
pouring1 with one continuous pour1 the  
hub full of molten metal4 ,when cool1   

the lead should be set and then caulked 
around the pipe and around the hub4     
,the amount of lead and oakum required  
for various-sized joints is as follows3 
,pipe size       #b      #c      #d     
#e      #f      #h   #aj      #ab   #ae 
,pounds of lead  #a-a_/b  #b-a_/d  #c   
#c-c_/d  #d-a_/b  #f    #g-a_/b   #i    
#aa-a_/d      ,oakum 7ounce7   #d       
#f      #h   #aj     #ab     #af   #bj  
#bd   #cj  ,,rust ,,joints4--,the       
plumber is called upon to run cast-iron 
pipe in places where lead and oakum will
 not be of service for the joints4 ,in  
cases of this kind1 a rust joint is     
made4 ,this rust is made according to   
the following formula3        #a part   
flour of sulphur4       #a part         
sal-ammoniac4      #ih parts iron       
borings 7free from grease74  ,this      
mixture is made the consistency of      
cement1 using water to mix thoroughly   
and bring all parts into contact with   
each other4 ,when it hardens1 it becomes
 very hard and makes a tight joint which

 overcomes the objections to lead and   
oakum joints4   ,,wrought-,,iron ,,and  
,,steel ,,pipe  ,this pipe comes in     
about #ah-;foot lengths and fittings of 
the following makes and shapes1 and     
their use is fully explained4 ,the      
lengths of pipe come with a thread on   
each end and a coupling screwed on one  
end4 ,the lengths come in bundles up to 
#a-a_/b-;inches and in single lengths   
over that size4 ,screw pipe fittings1 it
 will be noted1 are called by a         
different name than cast-iron ones4 ,the
 fittings in common use today are the   
#ij degree ell1 #de1 #bb1 and #af-b_/c4 
,the ,y and ,,ty1 tucker fittings1 and  
inverted ,ys are used in practically the
 same way as the cast-iron fittings4    
,the #ij degree ell1 #de1 #bb1 and      
#af-b_/c are used to change the run of  
pipe that many degrees4 ,all #ij degree 
fittings1 ells1 and ,ts are tapped to   
give the pipe a pitch of #a_/d inch to  
the foot4 ,it is better to use two #de  
ells to make a #ij bend when it is      

possible4  ,illustration3 ,,cast-,,iron 
,,screw ,,fittings ,,fig4 #ed4          
,,inverted ,y4--,the inverted ,y is used
 in venting to good advantage4 ,the use 
of these fittings is illustrated in the 
sketches4  ,,waste ,,pipes4--,waste     
pipes are the pipes that run to or      
convey the discharge of waste matter to 
the house drain1 from wash trays1 baths1
 lavatories1 sinks1 and showers4  ,the  
usual size of waste pipes is #b inches4 
,waste pipes are made of the same       
material as soil pipe4 ,lead and brass  
pipe are also in common use4 ,all       
exposed waste pipes in bath and toilet  
rooms are brass1 nickel-plated4 ,the    
waste pipes under kitchen sinks and wash
 trays are either lead or plain heavy   
brass4 ,all waste pipes are run with a  
pitch towards the house trap and should 
be properly vented as explained under   
venting4 ,the pipes should be easy of   
access1 with clean-outs in convenient   
places4 ,the waste pipes under a tile or
 cement floor should be covered with    

waterproof paper and a metal ,v-shaped  
shield over the entire length4 ,if the  
waste pipes are over a decorated ceiling
 they should be in a copper-lined or    
lead-lined box4 ,this box should have a 
tell-tale pipe running to the open      
cellar with the end of the tell-tale    
pipe left open4 ,if waste pipes are to  
take the discharge from sinks in which  
chemicals are thrown1 either chemical   
lead or terra-cotta pipe should be used4
 ,if terra-cotta is used1 it should have
 at least #f inches reinforced concrete 
around it and the joints of pipe made of
 keisilgar4  ,,size ,,of ,,waste ,,pipes
       ,urinals         #b inches       
,kitchen sink    #b inches      ,slop   
sink       #c inches      ,receptacles  
#a-a_/b inches      ,bath tubs          
#a-a_/b inches      ,lavatories         
#a-a_/b or #a-a_/d inches      ,wash    
trays      #b inches  ,,tell-,,tale     
,,pipe4--,the tell-tale pipe is a small 
pipe that extends from the trough1 pan1 
or box that is under a line of pipe or  

fixtures to the open cellar4 ,when water
 is seen running out of this pipe1 it   
shows that a leak exists somewhere in   
the line of pipe that is in the box or  
trough4 ,the use of this pipe saves the 
destruction of walls and ceilings4      
,,vents  ,illustration3 ,,fig4          
#ee4--;,circuit vent4  ,vents are the   
most important pipes in the plumbing    
system4 ,modern plumbing successfully   
attempts to make living in crowded and  
thickly populated districts1 as well as 
in isolated buildings1 free from all    
unpleasant odors and annoyances4 ,this  
could not be accomplished without the   
use of vents4 ,vents relieve all        
pressure in the system by furnishing an 
outlet for the air that is displaced by 
the waste discharged from the fixtures4 
,another of its functions is to supply  
air when syphonic action starts1 thereby
 stopping the action that would break   
the seal of the trap under fixtures4    
,the pipe extending from top fixture    
connection1 up to and through the roof1 

is called the ventilation pipe4 ,all    
vents that do not pass directly through 
the roof terminate in this ventilation  
pipe4  ,to explain the use of vents1 we 
might well start in the basement of a   
dwelling house4 ,suppose there is a set 
of wash trays in the laundry2 the       
#b-;inch trap of these trays should have
 a #a-a_/d-;inch vent pipe leading from 
the crown of the trap up along side of  
the stack4 ,on the first floor a        
#a-a_/d-;inch pipe from the crown of the
 kitchen sink trap will lead into it4   
,here the pipe should be increased to #b
 inches4 ,on the second floor the       
#a-a_/d-;inch pipes leading from the    
lavatory and bath traps come into it4   
,the vent stack now extends up into the 
attic and connects with the ventilation 
pipe4 ,in a general way1 the above is an
 example of venting4 ,the old method of 
venting was very complicated and is     
almost beyond describing with the pen4  
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--,loop vent4 
,in common use today1 there are several 

kinds of venting1 namely3 circuit and   
loop venting1 crown venting1 and        
continuous venting4 ,the circuit        
venting1 ,fig4 #ee1 is used in          
connection with the installation of     
closets4 ,take a row of toilets in which
 the waste connection of each closet    
discharges into a ,y-branch1 and there  
will be a series of ,y-branches4 ,one   
end of this series of branches          
discharges into the main stack while the
 other end continues and turns up at    
least to the height of the top of the   
closet and then enters the main vent    
stack4 ,when this main vent runs up     
along side of the main stack and forces 
the vent pipe connected to the series of
 ,y-branches to travel back1 it is      
called a loop vent4 ,this type of vent  
supplies air to the complete line of    
toilets and is very efficient4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--;,continuous
 vent4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4      
,,continuous ,,venting1 ,figs4 #eg and  
#eh1 applies more to fixtures other than

 toilets4 ,a ,p-trap is used and enters 
a ,t in the stack4 ,the lower part of   
the ,t acts as and connects with the    
waste pipe while the upper half is and  
connects with the vent pipe4 ,a study of
 the figures will aid the reader to     
understand thoroughly the above         
explanations4 ,in continuous venting the
 waste of the lowest fixture is         
discharged into the vent pipe and       
extended to the main waste stack where  
it is connected4 ,this is done to allow 
any rust scales that occasionally drop  
down the vent pipe1 and render it unfit 
to perform its duty1 to be washed away  
into the sewer4  ,,crown ,,venting1     
,fig4 #ei1 is as its name implies1 a    
vent that is taken from the crown of the
 trap1 thence into the main vent4  ,each
 one of these methods of venting is used
 and considered good practice1 provided 
it is properly installed and correctly  
connected with the use of proper        
fittings4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4        
#ei4--;,crown venting4  ,,things ,,to   

,,remember4--       ,first1 venting is  
to prevent traps from syphoning4        
,second1 also to allow free passage of  
air4       ,third1 circuit vent--loop   
vent4       ,fourth1 continuous venting4
       ,fifth1 crown venting4           
,sixth1 ventilation pipe extends from   
the top of fixture through      roof4   
,,chapter ,,xi  ,,house ,,traps1        
,,fresh-,,air ,,connections1 ,,drum     
,,traps1 ,,and ,,non-,,syphoning ,,traps
   ,the house trap is a deep seal trap  
placed inside the foundation wall1 and  
intersects the house drain and house    
sewer4 ,the trap is placed at this point
 for a number of reasons3 first1 to keep
 sewer gases from entering the pipes in 
the house2 second1 this location is     
where the house drain ends4 ,this trap  
should have two clean-outs1 one on each 
side of the seal4 ,the clean-outs should
 be of extra heavy cast-iron body with a
 heavy brass screw cap4 ,the cap should 
have a square nut for a wrench to       
tighten or unscrew the cap4 ,this cap   

should be brought up flush with the     
floor4 ,when a house trap is being set1 
it is necessary to set it perfectly     
level1 otherwise the seal of the trap is
 weakened and sewer gases can enter4    
,sometimes the trap is located on the   
house sewer just outside of the         
foundation wall4 ,in this case1 a pit   
should be built large enough for a      
workman to get down to it to clean it   
out when necessary4  ,a mason's trap was
 formerly used to a considerable extent1
 but is very poor practice to use today 
on modern work4 ,this trap was built    
square of brick with a center partition4
 ,the brick soon became foul and the    
trap would be better termed a small     
cesspool than a trap4  ,,points ,,to    
,,remember ,,about ,,house ,,traps4--   
,first1 should be a running trap4       
,second1 two clean-outs4       ,third1  
deep seal1 at least #b inches4          
,fourth1 set level4       ,fifth1 set   
inside foundation wall4       ,sixth1   
accessible at all times4       ,seventh1

 same size as house drain4              
,eighth1 fresh air should connect with  
it4   ,,fresh-,,air ,,connections  ,the 
term fresh-air inlet is1 as its name    
implies1 an inlet for fresh air4 ,it is 
placed directly on the house side of the
 main trap4 ,the connections made vary  
considerably4 ,a few good connections in
 common use are explained below4  ,when 
the trap is in place1 one of the        
clean-outs can be used for the fresh    
air4 ,if this is done1 a ,y-branch      
should be placed in the hub of the      
clean-out4 ,the ,y-branch should be used
 for the fresh air and the run should be
 used for a clean-out4  ,a ,y-fitting   
can be inserted directly back of the    
trap and the branch used for the fresh  
air4 ,an inverted ,y makes a good       
fitting to use directly back of the     
trap4 ,these branches should be taken   
off the top of the pipe4 ,the branch    
taken off for the fresh-air inlet should
 not have any waste discharge into it   
and should not be used for a drain pipe 

of any description4  ,the fresh-air     
inlet should run as directly as possible
 into the outer air1 at least #ae feet  
from any window4 ,the pipes terminate in
 a number of different ways1 some with a
 return bend1 above the ground1 some    
with a cowl cap1 some with a strainer4  
,when necessary to run pipe through the 
sidewalk1 a box of brick is made with a 
heavy brass strainer fitted level with  
the sidewalk into which the pipe runs4  
,if the pipe is run into the box on the 
side a little up from the bottom1 the   
possibility of becoming stopped up or   
filled up is not great4 ,the fresh-air  
inlet sometimes terminates above the    
roof of the building4  ,special care    
should be given this fresh-air inlet as 
it supplies fresh air to the entire     
system and thus keeps the pipes in a    
much better sanitary condition4         
,sometimes when the house drain is full 
of sewage1 air is pushed out of the     
fresh-air inlet and disagreeable odors  
are evident4 ,this is why it should be  

located as far as possible from any     
window4 ,special care should be taken on
 the part of the plumber not to locate  
the fresh-air inlet nearer than #ae feet
 to the fresh-air intake of the heating 
system4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4          
#fj4--;,fresh-air inlet4  ,when the pipe
 passes through the foundation wall1 the
 same care should be exercised as with  
other pipes4 ,that is1 if the pipe is #d
 inches1 a sleeve #f inches should be   
cut in the wall for the #d-;inch pipe to
 pass through4  ,,points ,,to ,,remember
 ,,about ,,fresh ,,air4--       ,first1 
never should be smaller than #d inches4 
,second1 one size smaller than trap4    
,third1 location1 directly back of trap4
       ,fourth1 leads to outer air4     
,fifth1 keep away from windows and      
intake of heating system4       ,sixth1 
always have end of pipe covered with    
strainer1 cowl1 or      return bend4    
,seventh1 make as few bends as possible4
       ,eighth1 supplies fresh air to   
system4   ,,drum ,,trap  ,the use of the

 drum trap is very handy to the plumber 
as well as efficient and practicable    
when installed4 ,the trap can be        
purchased without any outlets or inlets1
 so the plumber can put them in         
according to the necessary measurements4
 ,the making of these traps with lead is
 explained in the chapter on ,wiping    
,joints4 ,the open end has a brass      
clean-out screw on it4 ,when this       
clean-out screw comes below the floor1  
another brass screw cap and flange is   
screwed on the floor above the trap so  
that the clean-out screw in the trap is 
easily accessible4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #fa4--;,drum trap4  ,these drum  
traps are called bath traps as they are 
used mostly on bath wastes4 ,they should
 never be installed with the clean-out  
exposed to the sewer side of the trap4  
,in the best practice1 heavy brass drum 
traps are used4   ,,non-,,syphoning     
,,trap  ,illustration3 ,,fig4           
#fb4--;,flask trap4  ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #fc4--;,clean-sweep trap4  ,after

 years of experimenting to produce a    
trap that would not syphon without      
venting1 we find in use today a large   
variety of non-syphoning traps4 ,traps  
that will hold their seal against all   
practical forms of syphonic action1 or  
other threatening features1 have been   
made and used and serve the purpose for 
which they are intended4 ,various means 
to prevent the breaking of the seal of  
these traps are employed4 ,while some   
depend on a ball or other kind of valve1
 others rely on partitions and          
deflections of various kinds4 ,all of   
these perform the functions for which   
they are designed1 yet the devices      
employed offer an excellent obstruction 
for the free passage of waste2          
therefore1 in time1 these traps become  
inoperative4 ,it should be borne in mind
 that any traps with a mechanical seal  
or an inside partition are not          
considered sanitary4 ,the inside        
partition might wear out or be destroyed
 and thus break the seal without the    

knowledge of anyone and allow sewer gas 
to enter the room4 ,the mechanical      
device may also be displaced or         
destroyed1 leaving the trap without a   
seal4 ,if the trap were cleaned out     
often or examined occasionally1 these   
traps could be used with a greater      
degree of safety4 ,some of the forms of 
non-syphon traps in common use are3     
,the ,flask ,trap1 ,fig4 #fb4 ,this trap
 gets its name from its      shape4     
,there is an inside wall upon which the 
seal depends4      ,this trap is like   
the bag trap1 only the two inside walls 
of      the pipe are combined into one4 
,this wall should be of heavy      cast 
brass1 free from sand holes4            
,clean ,sweep ,trap1 ,fig4 #fc4 ,some   
clean sweep traps are      dependent    
upon an inside wall for their seals4    
,they are made      of #a_/b-,s1        
#c_/d-,s1 and full ,s4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #fd4--,mechanical-seal trap4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4--,standard ,s
 trap4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4           

#ff4--;,bag trap4       ,sure ,seal     
,trap4 ,the sure seal trap is designed  
to be      non-syphoning4 ,this trap    
also has an interior waterway4 ,if      
this waterway leaks1 the trap is unfit  
for use4 ,if these traps      are made  
as shown in the second sketch with the  
way inside of      a larger pipe1 it can
 be detected if the interior wall leaks4
       ,centrifugal ,trap4 ,the         
centrifugal trap is made similar to     
the clean sweep1 except that the wall of
 the inlet pipe is      entirely        
separate from the body of the trap4 ,the
 inlet enters      the body of the trap 
on a tangent1 thus making the trap      
self-scouring which is a good feature4  
,,chapter ,,xii  ,,pipe ,,threading     
,the proper cutting of threads on pipe  
is overlooked by some mechanics4 ,there 
are many different kinds of dies and    
different kinds of pipe to contend with4
 ,steel pipe threads very hard and the  
adjustable dies should be used on it4   
,these dies cut more easily and leave a 

cleaner thread than other dies when used
 on steel pipe4 ,when threads are cut on
 wrought-iron pipe the adjustable dies  
should be used as they cut a better and 
cleaner thread than other dies4 ,to     
preserve the life of the dies and the   
quality of the thread1 oil is used      
freely while the dies are cutting4      
,,threads4--,the standard thread on pipe
 and fittings is a right-handed thread4 
,left threads can be cut on the pipe and
 the fitting can be tapped with a left  
thread4 ,when a fitting is tapped with a
 left thread it is marked so4 ,the      
following table gives the standard      
number of threads that a die will or    
should be allowed to cut on the pipe3   
----------------------------------------
-------------------        ,size        
,length1 inches   ,threads per inch     
,threads per end                        
----------------------------------------
-------------------        #c_/h        
#i_/af             #ah                  
#aj4hbe        #a_/b          #c_/d     

#ad               #aj4ejj        #c_/d  
#c_/d              #ad                  
#aj4ejj        #a            #ae_/af    
#aa-a_/b           #aj4hjj              
#a-a_/d       #a                        
#aa-a_/b           #aa4ejj              
#a-a_/b       #a                        
#aa-a_/b           #aa4ejj        #b    
#a-a_/h             #aa-a_/b            
#ab4icj                                 
----------------------------------------
-------------------  ,to acquaint the   
beginner with iron pipe work1 the       
following exercise is given4 ,in it     
there are a great many of the actual    
problems that come up when the pipe is  
put in on a job4 ,this is the last      
exercise that is required in this book4 
,the sketch shows clearly just what the 
job is and below ,i have gone over each 
operation that is necessary to complete 
the job4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4    
,,materials ,,necessary4--,six feet of  
#a-;inch black pipe2 four #a-;inch black
 ells2 two #a-;inch tee2 one #a-;inch   

right and left coupling2 oil4  ,,tools  
,,necessary4--,two #ad-;inch pipe       
wrenches1 vise1 pipe cutters1 stock and 
#a-;inch follower right and left die and
 reamer4  ,the vise is made secure on a 
bench or post1 care being taken before  
it is put in place to provide room      
enough to swing the stocks4 ,a length of
 #a-;inch pipe is put into the vise and 
the vise clamped around it4 ,the end of 
the pipe that is to be threaded should  
stick out through the vise about #i     
inches4 ,if there is a thread on this   
end1 the dies should be run over it to  
make sure that it is a standard thread  
and to clean the threads4 ,before       
proceeding further with this exercise   
the dies and stocks will be described   
and their use shown4  ,,dies4--,a full  
set of dies is taken4 ,the full set of  
stocks and dies is composed of right and
 left dies from #a_/h inch up to #a     
inch1 with a guide for each size1 also a
 small wrench with which to turn the set
 screws4 ,the dies come in sets1 two in 

a set4 ,these are the ,armstrong patent 
that ,i am describing4 ,take the stock  
and the handles1 and a set of #a-;inch  
right dies with the guides out of the   
box4 ,the dies will have marked on them 
#a ,r 7if #a-;inch left were wanted1 the
 mark would be #a ,l74 ,the set screws  
are taken out of the stock and the dies 
inserted in their proper place4 ,there  
is a deep mark on the edge of each die  
and under it a letter ,s4 ,this letter  
means standard4 ,this mark on the die is
 set even with a similar mark on the    
stock and when the set screws are in    
place and tightened1 a standard thread  
will be cut4 ,there is an adjusting     
screw on the stock to make the proper   
adjustment on the dies4  ,,stock4--,the 
stock is taken and the handles are put  
into it4 ,there are two sets of set     
screws on the stock1 one set for holding
 the dies in place and the other set for
 adjusting the dies4 ,on the stock there
 is a deep mark to correspond with the  
standard thread mark on the dies4 ,on   

the opposite side of the stock there is 
a place for the follower and a set screw
 to hold it in place4 ,after the stocks 
have been looked over and examined      
thoroughly1 the #a-;inch right dies are 
taken and inserted4 ,then the #a-;inch  
follower is put in place4 ,the tool is  
now ready to cut a #a-;inch thread4 ,now
 take a piece of #a-;inch pipe at least 
#ae inches long and put it in the vise1 
letting it extend out from the vise     
about #i inches4 ,the stock is now taken
 and the follower end is put on the pipe
 first and the dies brought up in place 
to cut4 ,the end of the pipe is allowed 
to enter in between the two dies so that
 the teeth of each die rest on the pipe4
 ,now1 holding the handles of the stock 
about #f inches from the body of the    
stock and standing directly in front of 
the pipe1 push and turn to the right at 
the same time and the dies will be      
started4 ,now put some oil on the dies  
and turn the stock1 taking hold of the  
ends of the handles and standing at one 

side4 ,the dies are run up on the pipe  
until the pipe extends through the face 
of the dies one thread4 ,oil is put on  
the pipe and the dies at least twice    
during the cutting4 ,when the thread is 
long enough the stock is turned back a  
little and then forward a little and the
 loose chips are blown out from between 
the dies and pipe4 ,if the dies are set 
right1 a good clean standard thread will
 have been cut4 ,this thread can now be 
cut off with the pipe cutters4  ,,pipe  
,,cutters4--,to cut pipe with a         
one-wheel pipe cutter is a simple       
matter4 ,i will not dwell at length on  
the cutter itself4 ,there are one-wheel 
and three-wheel cutters4 ,we will use a 
one-wheel cutter tool4 ,this cutter is  
forced into the surface of the pipe with
 a set screw having a long tee handle4  
,the pressure that is brought to bear on
 the pipe while being cut is sufficient 
to cause a large burr to form on the    
inside of the pipe4 ,sometimes the pipe 
is completely crushed and rendered unfit

 for use4 ,therefore the user of these  
cutters should exercise care when       
cutting pipe4 ,the pipe is put in the   
vise and the cutters are so put on the  
pipe that the pipe will be between the  
two rollers and the cutter wheel1 the   
cutter resting on the mark that         
indicates the point at which the pipe is
 to be cut4 ,the handle is screwed down 
and the cutters turned around the pipe2 
each time the cutters make a complete   
turn the handle is screwed down more4   
,this procedure is continued until the  
furrow has been cut clear through the   
pipe4  ,,cutting ,,and ,,threading      
,,nipples4--,nipples are short pieces of
 pipe threaded on each end4 ,pieces of  
pipe longer than #f inches are not      
called nipples4 ,when a nipple is so    
short that the threads cut on each end  
meet in the center of the piece1 the    
nipple is called a close nipple4 ,when  
there is a space of about #a_/d inch    
between the threads1 it is called a     
space or shoulder nipple4 ,to cut and   

thread these nipples a nipple chuck or  
nipple holder is necessary4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,nipple     
chuck and nipples4  ,,nipple            
,,holders4--,take a piece of #a-;inch   
pipe about #ab inches long and on one   
end cut a thread that is #b inches long4
 ,take a #a-;inch coupling and screw it 
on this end until the end of the pipe is
 almost through the end of the coupling4
 ,at least four threads should be       
allowed at this end of the coupling4    
,now we have a piece of pipe #ab inches 
long having a thread #b inches long on  
one end with a coupling on the thread4  
,this is called a nipple holder4 ,now1  
to cut a nipple1 cut a thread on a piece
 of pipe and cut the pipe off at any    
desired length1 say #b inches4 ,put the 
nipple holder in the vise with the      
coupling out from the vise about #h     
inches4 ,take the #b-;inch piece of pipe
 with a thread on one end1 screw this   
thread into the coupling until it       
touches the pipe that has been screwed  

through from the other end4 ,now the    
stocks having the #a dies and the       
follower in are put on the pipe4 ,the   
follower will not go over the coupling1 
therefore take the follower out of the  
stock4 ,now the stock will slip over the
 coupling and the thread can be cut4    
,with this procedure a nipple of any    
length can be cut4 ,there are a number  
of patented nipple chucks on the market1
 but as they are not always at hand the 
above method is resorted to and serves  
every purpose4  ,,long ,,screws4--,to   
cut a long screw which comes in use     
frequently on vent pipe work1 a piece of
 pipe #ab inches long is taken and a    
regular length thread is cut on one end1
 and a thread #d inches long is cut on  
the other end4 ,then a coupling is cut  
while screwed on a pipe1 so that a lock 
nut about #a_/b inch wide is made4 ,the 
description and use of these long screws
 will come under screw pipe venting4    
,now that the proper use of the tools   
has been explained1 we will proceed with

 the exercise according to the sketch4  
,with a length of pipe in the vise and  
the #a-;inch dies in the stock1 run over
 the thread on the pipe4 ,note that all 
the measurements are center to center4  
,screw an elbow on the pipe and measure 
off the first length1 which we will take
 as #ab inches center to center4 ,place 
the rule on the pipe with one end of it 
at the center of the opening of the     
elbow just screwed on4 ,mark #ab inches 
off on the pipe4 ,this mark represents  
the center of another ell4 ,now take    
another ell and hold the center of one  
outlet on this mark4 ,it will readily be
 seen that to have the measurement come 
right1 the pipe must be cut off at a    
point where it will make up tight when  
screwed into the ell4 ,therefore1 about 
#a inch will have to be cut off1 making 
the pipe #a inch shorter than where it  
was first marked4 ,cut the pipe1 and    
before taking it out of the vise make a 
thread on the pipe still in the vise4   
,after the thread is cut1 take the      

reamer and ream out the burr that is on 
the inside of the pipe caused by the    
pipe cutter4 ,an elbow can be screwed on
 this pipe4 ,the next measurement is    
marked off as explained1 the pipe cut1  
then the piece in the vise threaded and 
reamed4 ,the measurements must be       
accurate and the dies should be adjusted
 to cut all threads the same depth4     
,when the measurements are all out1     
there should be seven pieces of pipe1   
each piece having one thread4 ,now the  
threads on the other end can be cut     
except the #ab inch piece that screws   
into the right and left coupling4 ,this 
thread is a left-handed thread and must 
be cut with the left dies4 ,change the  
dies now to the #a-;inch left dies2 turn
 the stock in the opposite direction of 
the right-hand thread1 and the dies will
 cut the left thread4 ,the pipe and the 
fittings can easily be put together as  
shown in the sketch by following the    
center to center measurements4 ,the     
right and left coupling is the only     

fitting that will cause the beginner    
trouble4 ,a right and left coupling can 
be used only when there is sufficient   
give to the pipe1 that is1 the two ends 
of the pipe to be coupled together are  
only #a_/b inch apart4 ,to get the      
coupling in place to start the threads1 
the pipe must spread apart at least #b  
inches4 ,if the pipe cannot be spread   
that much1 a right and left coupling    
cannot be used4 ,the proper way to make 
up a right and left coupling is as      
follows3  ,illustration3 ,,fig4         
#fi4--;,f reads center of ell to end1 ,c
 reads center of ell to center of valve1
 ,d reads center of valve to center of  
,t1 ,e reads center of ,t to center of  
ell4  ,screw home the coupling on the   
right thread4 ,mark with a piece of     
chalk on the coupling and the pipe      
showing a point on each where the       
coupling makes tight4 ,take off the     
coupling and count the turns and make   
note of the number4 ,now do the same on 
the left thread and make a note of the  

number of threads4 ,if the left thread  
has six turns and the right has four and
 one-half1 then to insure that the left 
thread will be tight when the right     
thread is1 the coupling must be put on  
the left thread one and one-half turns  
before it is started on the right       
thread4 ,now with four and one-half     
turns1 the right and the left threads   
will both be tight4 ,a little thought   
and practice will make this connection  
clear4 ,if all the measurements in this 
exercise are not cut accurately1 the    
right and left coupling will not go     
together4     ,,chapter ,,xiii          
,,cold-,,water ,,supply4 ,,test   ,the  
supplying of cold water to buildings and
 then piping it to the various fixtures 
makes a very interesting study4 ,we have
 gone over the methods of laying and    
piping for the house service pipe4 ,we  
will go over the different systems now  
employed to supply the water1 quickly4  
,,underground ,,water4--,in thinly      
populated districts the well is still   

employed to supply water to the         
building4 ,the water is brought to the  
surface by means of a large bucket or by
 means of a pump4 ,a well point can be  
driven into the ground until water is   
reached and then the water can be       
brought to the surface by means of a    
pump operated by hand or by power4 ,the 
water can be forced to a tank that is   
open and elevated1 or forced into a tank
 that is closed and put under pressure4 
,from either tank the water will flow to
 any desired outlets4 ,a windmill can be
 employed to furnish power to operate   
the pump4 ,water supply that is received
 directly from underground is by far the
 best to use4 ,a cesspool or outhouse   
must not be allowed on the premises with
 a well1 otherwise the well will be     
contaminated and unfit for domestic use4
 ,an open well is not as sanitary as a  
driven well1 as the surface water and   
leaves1 etc41 get into it and decay and 
pollute the water1 and soon make it     
unfit for domestic use4  ,,streams ,,and

 ,,brooks4--,the brooks and streams     
furnish a good source of supply for     
water to a building or community of     
buildings4 ,the writer recently worked  
on a system of piping that supplied #ae 
or #bj buildings4 ,the water supply came
 from a brook that was higher than the  
houses4 ,each house had a separate pipe 
leading down from the brook into a tank 
from which the house was piped4 ,the    
owner of the brook applied business     
ethics to the privileges of taking water
 from it4 ,he had a scale of prices1 and
 the highest-priced location was an inch
 or so below the bed of the brook1 the  
next price was level with the bottom1   
the next cheaper #b inches above the    
bottom4 ,as the surface was reached1 the
 privilege cost less4 ,in the dry time  
of the year those at the bottom of the  
brook always had water while those at   
the top location had to wait for the    
water to rise1 and had to do without    
water during the dry time4 ,where the   
stream is on a lower level than the     

building a hydraulic ram can be used4   
,,rivers ,,and ,,lakes4--,rivers and    
lakes make an abundant supply for water 
systems4 ,a sluggish-moving river is    
bad1 also a river that is used for      
carrying off the sewage of a town4      
,special provision is now made for the  
using of water that is polluted4 ,a lake
 that is supplied by springs is by far  
the best source of supply4 ,the water is
 pumped from the river or lake into a   
reservoir and then flows by gravity into
 mains and from the mains into the      
buildings4 ,the water should always be  
filtered before it is allowed to enter  
the distributing mains4  ,,water        
,,pressure4--,pressure at a fixture or  
outlet so that the water will flow is   
generally obtained by the force of      
gravity4 ,when this method is not       
sufficient1 a pneumatic system is       
employed4 ,this method is employed to   
force the water to the top floors or to 
supply the whole building in high       
structures4 ,the pneumatic system       

requires a pump1 an air-tight tank1 and 
pipes to the various outlets4 ,the water
 pumped into the air-tight tank will    
occupy part of the space generally      
occupied by the air4 ,the air cannot    
escape and is1 therefore1 compressed4   
,continued pumping will compress the air
 until the limit of the apparatus is    
reached4 ,if a valve or faucet that is  
connected with the tank is opened1 the  
air will expand and force the water out 
of the opening4 ,this explains in a     
general way the operation of a pneumatic
 water-supply system4 ,water can be     
pumped into this air-tight tank from a  
well1 cistern1 river1 lake1 or from the 
city supply mains4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #gj4--;,banjo4  ,,piping4--,from 
the service pipe on which there has been
 placed a shut-off1 a line of piping1   
full size1 is run through the basement1 
overhead to a convenient place1 perhaps 
to a partition in the center of the     
cellar4 ,the pipe is brought down and   
connected into the end of a header4     

,this header or banjo is made of ,ts    
placed #d inches center to center4 ,from
 each ,t a line of pipe is run to each  
isolated fixture or set of fixtures 7see
 ,fig4 #gj74 ,a stop and waste cock is  
placed on each line at such a point that
 all stop cocks will come in a row near 
the header4 ,a small pipe is run from   
the waste of each stop and discharged   
into a larger pipe which connects with a
 sink4 ,this way of running pipes while 
it is expensive makes a very neat and   
good job4 ,each stop cock has a tag on  
it stating explicitly what it controls4 
,if the building is a large one a number
 of these panelled headers are used4 ,a 
less expensive way to run this pipe is  
to branch off from the main at points   
where the branch pipe will be as short  
as possible and use as few fittings as  
possible4 ,stop and waste cocks are then
 placed on each branch near the main4   
,all pipe must follow the direct line of
 fitting with which it is connected4    
,the line of pipe should be perfectly   

straight4 ,if it seems necessary to bend
 the pipe to get around an obstacle1    
then good judgment has not been used in 
placing the fitting into which the pipe 
is screwed4 ,the fitting should be      
re-located so that the pipe can be run  
without bending4 ,to have true alignment
 of pipes the whole job or section of   
the job must be drawn out on paper first
 and any obstacles noted and avoided    
before the piping is cut4 ,this not only
 saves time but it is also the          
forerunner of a good job4 ,when getting 
measurements for piping the same rule or
 tape should be used to get out the pipe
 as was used to get the measurements4   
,the water main and branches that run   
through the basement of a building are  
generally hung on the ceiling4 ,rough   
hangers of wood1 rope1 or wire are      
usually used to hold the pipe in place  
at first1 then neat and strong          
adjustable hangers are placed every #h  
feet apart4 ,there are in use too many  
kinds of hangers to explain or describe 

them here4 ,the essential point of all  
good hangers is to have them strong1    
neat1 and so made that perfect alignment
 of the pipe can be had4 ,the hangers   
should be so placed that no strain will 
come on the fitting or the valves4 ,a   
hanger should be placed near each side  
of unions so that when the union is     
taken apart neither side of the pipe    
will drop and bend4 ,hooks and straps   
should be used to hold vertical pipes   
rigid and in position4 ,a vertical pipe 
should be so held in place that its     
weight will come on the hooks and straps
 that hold it rather than on the        
horizontal pipe into which it connects4 
,where there are six or eight horizontal
 lines of pipes close together1 a       
separate hanger for each pipe makes a   
rather cumbersome job and it consumes   
considerable time to install them       
properly4 ,a hanger having one support  
run under all the pipes will allow space
 for proper alignment and adjustment for
 drainage4 ,allowance must be made on   

all lines of pipe for drainage4 ,when a 
building is vacant during cold weather1 
the water is drawn off2 therefore1 the  
pipes should have a pitch to certain    
points where the pipes can be opened and
 the entire system drained of water4    
,,kinds ,,of ,,pipe4--,the kind of pipe 
that is used for cold-water supply      
depends on and varies according to the  
kind of water1 the kind of earth through
 which it runs1 and the construction of 
the building4 ,wrought iron1 steel1     
lead1 brass1 tin-lined brass1 are in    
use4  ,the supply pipe to every fixture 
should have a stop on it directly under 
the fixture4 ,this will allow the water 
to be shut off for repairs to the faucet
 without stopping the supply of other   
fixtures4  ,the making of perfect       
threads on pipe is an important matter1 
especially on water pipes4 ,if the pipe 
and the dies were perfect1 and the      
mechanic used sufficient oil in cutting1
 and the fittings were perfectly tapped 
to correspond to the dies used on the   

pipe1 of course a perfect union between 
pipe and fitting would result and the   
joint would be found to be perfect on   
screwing the pipe home4 ,as all the     
above conditions are not found on the   
job1 threads are made tight by the use  
of red or white lead and oil4 ,the lead 
is put on the thread and when the thread
 is made up the lead will have been     
forced into any imperfection that may be
 in the threads and the joint will then 
be water-tight4 ,white lead and oil     
should be used on nickel-plated pipe as 
other pipe compounds are too conspicuous
 and look badly4 ,a pipe compound should
 be used with discretion1 for if too    
much is put on a burr of it will collect
 in the bore of the pipe and reduce it  
considerably4 ,this is not tolerated1 so
 only a small amount is used4 ,water    
pipes should be run in accessible       
places1 making it possible to get at    
them in case of trouble4 ,in climates   
that have freezing weather water pipes  
should not be run in outside partitions4

 ,if it is found absolutely necessary to
 do so1 as in the case of buildings     
which have no inside partitions on the  
first floor1 the pipe should be properly
 covered and protected4 ,the different  
methods of covering pipes are described 
in ,chapter ,,xv4     ,,chapter ,,xiv   
,,hot-,,water ,,heaters4 ,,instantaneous
 ,,coil ,,and ,,storage ,,tanks4        
,,return ,,circulation1 ,,hot-,,water   
,,lines ,,and ,,expansion   ,the problem
 of supplying hot water to plumbing     
fixtures is one that has required years 
of study4 ,each job today demands       
considerable thought to make it a       
perfect and satisfactory hot-water      
system4 ,we will find installations     
today where the water is red from rust1 
where there is water pounding and       
cracking4 ,there are also jobs where the
 fixtures get practically no hot water4 
,as each job or individual building has 
its own peculiar conditions1 they must  
be solved by the designer or the        
mechanic1 using the fundamental         

principles of hot-water circulation4 ,we
 must first know how much hot water is  
to be used1 also the location of the    
outlets and the construction of the     
building2 then the size of the pipes and
 the size of the tanks and their        
locations can be settled4 ,if the job is
 a large one1 a pump may be employed to 
insure the proper circulation4 ,after   
this the pipe sizes and connections can 
be worked out4 ,the one great enemy of  
hot-water circulation is air4           
,therefore1 no traps or air pockets     
should ever appear in the piping system4
 ,the boiler1 as it is often referred   
to1 is the hot-water storage tank4 ,a   
copper or iron tank holding sufficient  
water to supply all fixtures1 even when 
every fixture demands a supply at the   
same time1 is installed in a convenient 
place and the heating arrangement       
connected with it4 ,a thermostat can be 
placed on the system and the temperature
 of the water controlled4 ,according to 
the size of the building the problem of 

furnishing the plumbing fixtures with   
hot water increases4  ,,methods ,,of    
,,heating ,,hot ,,water4--,there are a  
number of ways of furnishing hot water4 
,some of the installations are listed   
below4  ,a cast-iron or brass water back
 is placed on the fire pot of a stove or
 furnace4 ,a separate stove with the    
fire pot and water jacket is used4 ,a   
coil of steam pipe is placed inside a   
hot-water boiler or tank4 ,gas coil     
heaters are connected with hot water    
storage tank1 also gas coil             
instantaneous heaters are connected with
 the piping direct4  ,combinations of   
the above systems are in use and serve  
the purpose for which they are intended4
 ,for instance1 the tank can be         
connected with a coal range and a gas   
coil heater1 heat being furnished by the
 range alone or the coil heater alone1  
or both can be used at the same time4   
,this combination can be connected with 
the furnace in the cellar1 and during   
the winter months1 when the furnace is  

in use1 the water can be heated by the  
furnace coil4 ,in warm weather1 when the
 furnace is out1 the range can supply   
the necessary heat4 ,in hot weather the 
coil gas heater can supply the heat4    
,,connections ,,of ,,tank ,,and         
,,heating ,,apparatus4--,the ordinary   
house boiler or hot-water storage tank  
has four connections1 two on top1 one on
 the side1 and one on the bottom4 ,the  
top connections are used for the        
entrance of cold water into the tank and
 for the supply of hot water to the     
fixtures 7see ,fig4 #ga74 ,the          
cold-water inlet has a tube extending   
into the tank below the side connection4
 ,this tube has a small hole filed in it
 about #f inches from the top4 ,this    
hole is to break any syphonic action    
that may occur at any time4 ,the side   
connection is for the connection of the 
pipe coming from the top of the water   
back4 ,the bottom opening in the tank is
 for the connection of the pipe coming  
from the lower water back connection1   

also for draining the boiler4 ,the      
circulation of the water can be followed
 thus3 cold water enters the boiler in  
the tube and discharges into the boiler 
below the side connection4 ,from here it
 flows out of the bottom connection into
 the water back1 through the upper      
connection into the boiler1 through the 
side opening1 then to the top of the    
boiler and out to the fixtures through  
the fixture supply opening4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--,storage    
tank1 and coil heater with thermostatic 
control valve4  ,fig4 #fi shows a       
thermostatic control valve attached to  
the bottom of a heater coil1 and at the 
side of storage tank4 ,the best         
arrangement is at the bottom1 for it    
does not shut off the gas supply until  
the boiler is full of hot water4        
,,connecting ,,tank ,,and ,,coil ,,gas  
,,heater4--,the boiler and the coil gas 
heater have a different connection4 ,the
 bottom of the tank and the bottom of   
the heater are connected4 ,the top of   

the heater and the top of the boiler are
 connected4 ,the accompanying sketch    
shows how this connection is made4 ,if  
the tee on the top of the boiler into   
which the gas-heater connection is made 
is not the first fitting and placed as  
close to the outlet as possible1 the    
water will not circulate freely into the
 boiler4 ,this connection according to  
the drawing should be studied and       
memorized4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4       
#gb4--;,instantaneous gas heater4       
,showing circulation heater or booster4 
,,instantaneous ,,gas-,,heater          
,,connections4--,an instantaneous gas   
heater is placed in the basement4 ,the  
copper coil in it is connected at the   
bottom with the cold-water supply and   
the top outlet of the coil is connected 
with the hot-water system of piping4    
,there is no need of a storage tank with
 this heater4 ,when a faucet is opened  
in any part of the hot-water piping     
system1 the water passing through the   
water valve at the heater causes the gas

 valve to open so that the whole set of 
burners in the heater is supplied with  
gas1 and the burners are lighted from a 
pilot light4 ,when the faucet is closed1
 the gas supply is shut off and the     
burners are put out4 ,the pilot is      
lighted all the time4 ,space will not   
permit going over these connections in  
detail4 ,it is a large field and        
requires considerable thought4  ,,safety
 ,,and ,,check ,,valves4--,when a meter 
is used on a water system1 the water    
company demands that a check valve be   
placed on the hot-water system to       
prevent the hot water from being forced 
back into the meter in case the pressure
 got strong enough in the boiler4 ,if a 
check valve is used for this purpose1 or
 for any other purpose1 a safety valve  
must be placed on the boiler piping     
system to relieve any excessive pressure
 that may be caused by having the check 
valve in use4 ,there is today1 with     
meters of modern type1 no reason to use 
a check valve or a safety valve4 ,if an 

excessive pressure is obtained in the   
boiler1 it is relieved in the water     
main4  ,when water is heated1 it        
expands4 ,if the heat becomes more      
intense and steam is formed1 the        
expansion is much greater1 and some     
means must be provided to allow for it4 
,this expansion can be allowed to       
relieve itself in the water main as     
explained above4 ,when a check valve is 
placed on the piping1 this means of     
escape is shut off and a safety valve   
must be employed4 ,without these        
reliefs1 the pressure would be so great 
that an explosion would result4 ,when   
steel pipe and steel boilers are used   
for storage tanks and connections1 the  
pipe and tank will shortly start to rust
 and parts of the piping are stopped up 
with rust scales4 ,the water also       
becomes red with rust when the water    
becomes hot enough to circulate4 ,when  
the pipes are stopped up1 steam is      
formed and a snapping and cracking sound
 is heard4 ,to avoid these conditions1  

the piping should be of brass or lead   
and the storage tank should be of       
copper4 ,the installation cost of brass 
and copper is greater than steel1 but   
they will not have to be replaced in two
 or three years1 as is the case with    
other material4 ,a valve should be      
placed on the cold-water supply to      
control the entire hot-water piping     
system4 ,a pipe with a stop cock should 
be placed underneath the boiler and     
should extend into a sink in the        
basement so that the boiler can be      
drained at any time for cleaning or     
repairs4  ,,connecting ,,with           
,,fixtures4--,to have all fixtures      
properly supplied with hot water it is  
necessary to run what is termed a       
circulating pipe4 ,this circulating pipe
 is a circuit of pipe extending from the
 top of the boiler to the vicinity of   
the fixtures and then returning to the  
boiler and connecting into the pipe     
leading out of the bottom of the boiler4
 ,from this circuit all branches are    

taken to supply all fixtures requiring  
hot water4 ,this circulating pipe has   
hot water circulating through it all the
 time4 ,therefore the fixtures are      
supplied with hot water very quickly4   
,the circulating pipe and its branches  
are run without any traps or air        
pockets4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4         
#gc4--;,expansion loop4 ,four #ij deg4  
ells4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4            
#gd4--;,expansion loop4 ,five #ij deg4  
ells4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4            
#ge4--;,expansion loop4 ,six #ij deg4   
ells4  ,when running the piping1 it     
should be borne in mind that not only   
does the water expand when heated1 but  
the pipe expands also4 ,therefore due   
allowance must be made for this         
expansion4 ,the long risers should have 
an expansion loop as shown in ,figs4    
#gc1 #gd and #ge4 ,there are installed  
on some jobs what is known as an        
expansion joint4 ,this will allow for   
the expansion and contraction of the    
pipe4 ,the writer's experience with     

these joints has not been very          
satisfactory4 ,after a while these      
joints begin to leak and they must have 
attention which in some cases is rather 
expensive4 ,an expansion loop as shown  
in the sketch1 made with elbows1 will   
prove satisfactory4 ,if the threads on  
the fittings and pipe are good1 no leak 
will appear on this joint4  ,all gas    
heaters must be connected with a flue to
 carry off the products of combustion4  
,,chapter ,,xv  ,,insulation ,,of       
,,piping ,,to ,,eliminate ,,conduction1 
,,radiation1 ,,freezing1 ,,and ,,noise  
,,pipe ,,covering4--,pipe covering is   
another important branch of plumbing4 ,a
 few years ago heating pipes were the   
only pipes that it was thought necessary
 to cover4 ,the ever-increasing demands 
made by the public keep the wideawake   
plumber continually solving problems4   
,the water running down a waste pipe1   
for instance1 will annoy some people1   
and provision must be made to avoid this
 noise or to silence it4 ,this is one of

 the many problems that the plumber must
 solve by the use of pipe covering4     
,,pipes ,,that ,,need                   
,,covering4--,first of all1 the covering
 must be put on properly to be of high  
service4 ,hot-water circulating pipes   
need covering to reduce the amount of   
heat loss4 ,if the pipes and the tank   
are not covered1 considerable more fuel 
will be needed to supply the necessary  
amount of hot water than if the pipes   
and tank were covered with a good       
covering4 ,cold-water pipes need        
covering in places to keep them from    
freezing4 ,they also need covering under
 some conditions to keep them from      
sweating4 ,they are covered also to     
prevent the material which surrounds    
them from coming into direct contact    
with the pipe4 ,waste pipes need        
covering to prevent them from freezing  
and to silence the noise caused by the  
rush of water through them4 ,ice-water  
pipes are covered to prevent the water  
from rising in temperature and to       

prevent any condensation forming on the 
pipe4 ,there is need for such a variety 
of covering that ,i have listed below   
some of them and the methods employed   
for putting them on the pipe4           
,magnesia1 asbestos air cell1 molded    
asbestos1 wool felt1 waterproof paper   
and wool felt1 cork1 hair felt4 ,these  
coverings come in the form of pipe      
covering with a cloth jacket4 ,they also
 come in the shape of fittings as well  
as in blocks and rolls of paper1 and in 
powdered form4 ,any thickness that is   
desired may be had4 ,the pipe covering  
is readily put on the pipe4 ,the cloth  
jacket is pulled back a short distance  
and the covering will open like a book4 
,it can then be clamped on the pipe and 
the jacket pulled back and pasted into  
place4 ,brass bands1 #a inch wide1 come 
with the pipe covering4 ,these are put  
on and the pipe covering is then held   
securely in place4 ,practically all the 
coverings are applied in this manner and
 are made up in #c-;foot lengths to fit 

any size pipe4 ,to cover the fittings   
and valves1 the same kind of sectional  
covering can be obtained and applied in 
the same manner as the pipe covering4   
,plastic covering is often applied to   
the fittings and molded into the shape  
of the fitting4 ,the plastic covering   
comes in bags and is dry4 ,it is mixed  
with warm water to the consistency of   
thick cement and applied with a trowel4 
,when the covering is put on the pipes  
and fittings1 it should be done         
thoroughly to get satisfactory results4 
,each section of the covering has on one
 end an extra length of the jacket4     
,this is to allow a lap over on the next
 section to make a tight joint4 ,if the 
sections need fitting1 a saw can be used
 and the covering cut to any desired    
length4       ,magnesia covering is     
employed mostly on steam pipes1         
especially high-pressure4 ,this material
 can be had in the      shape of pipe   
covering1 in blocks1 or cement4         
,asbestos air cell covering is employed 

to cover hot-water      circulating     
pipes4 ,it is constructed of corrugated 
asbestos      paper4 ,this material is  
manufactured in the sectional pipe      
covering or in corrugated paper form4   
,molded asbestos covering is also used  
on hot-water pipes1      and is         
manufactured in pipe covering or in     
blocks4       ,wool felt covering is    
used mostly on hot-water pipes and      
makes one of the best coverings4 ,it is 
lined with asbestos      paper and      
covered with a cloth jacket4            
,waterproof paper and wool felt is used 
on cold-water pipes      and is made in 
#c-;foot lengths4 ,the covering is lined
 with      waterproof paper and covered 
with a cloth jacket4       ,cork4--,a   
heavy cork covering is one of the best  
coverings      for ice-water pipes1 and 
a light cork covering is used for       
cold-water pipes4 ,this covering comes  
in sections as other      coverings1    
also in blocks and sheets4       ,hair  
felt is used to prevent pipes from      

freezing4 ,it comes      in bales       
containing #aej to #cjj square feet of  
various      thicknesses4     ,,chapter 
,,xvi  ,,durham ,,or ,,screw ,,pipe     
,,work4 ,,pipe ,,and ,,fittings         
,durham or screw pipe work is the name  
used to denote that the job is installed
 by the use of wrought-iron or steel    
screw pipe4 ,we speak of a cast-iron job
 meaning that cast-iron pipe was used   
for the piping4 ,a completely different 
method of work is used when screw pipe  
is employed for the wastes and vents4   
,when screw pipe is to be used or       
considered for use1 it is well to know  
something concerning the various makes  
of screw pipe4 ,nothing but galvanized  
pipe is ever used4 ,the value of steel  
screw pipe and wrought-iron screw pipe  
should be studied1 and every person     
interested should1 if possible1         
understand how these different pipes are
 made and how the material of which they
 are composed is made4 ,in some places  
one pipe is better than another and a   

study of their make-up would enlighten  
the user and allow him to use the best  
for his peculiar conditions4 ,the       
maker's name should always be on the    
pipe4 ,the following table shows the    
sizes1 weights1 and thicknesses of screw
 pipe3                                  
-------------------------------         
,size   ,thickness  ,no4 threads        
per inch                                
-------------------------------         
#a-a_/d    #j4adj      #aa-a_/b         
#a-a_/b    #j4ade      #aa-a_/b       #b
        #j4aed      #aa-a_/b            
#b-a_/b    #j4bjd       #h       #c     
#j4bag       #h       #c-a_/b    #j4bbf 
#h       #d        #j4bcg       #h      
#e        #j4bei       #h       #f      
#j4bhj       #h                         
-------------------------------  ,screw 
pipe work came into common use with the 
advance of modern steel structures4     
,some difficulty had been experienced in
 getting the cast-iron pipe joints tight
 and to keep the pipe so anchored that  

it would not crack4 ,the screw pipe was 
found to answer all of the requirements 
of modern structures and therefore has  
been used extensively4 ,the life of     
screw pipe is not as long as extra heavy
 cast-iron pipe4 ,this is the only      
serious objection to screw pipe1 which  
must be renewed after a term of years1  
while extra heavy cast iron lasts       
indefinitely4 ,screw pipe is never used 
underground4 ,when piping is required   
underground1 extra heavy cast-iron pipe 
is used4   ,,piping  ,the pipe used in  
,durham work is galvanized extra heavy1 
or standard wrought-iron1 or steel pipe4
 ,it is almost impossible to recognize  
wrought-iron from steel pipe without the
 aid of a chemical or a magnifying      
glass4 ,to test the pipe to distinguish 
its base1 take a sharp file and file    
through the surface of the pipe that is 
to be tested4 ,if the pipe is steel1    
under a magnifying glass the texture of 
the filed surface will appear to be     
smooth and have small irregular-shaped  

grains1 and there will also be an       
appearance of compactness4 ,if the pipe 
is iron1 the texture will have the      
appearance of being ragged and will show
 streaks of slag or black4 ,when screw  
pipe is cut there is always left a large
 burr on the inside of the pipe4 ,this  
burr greatly reduces the bore of the    
pipe and is a source of stoppage in     
waste pipes4 ,after the pipe is cut this
 burr should be reamed out thoroughly4  
,one of the strong points of screw pipe 
is the strength of each joint4 ,care    
should therefore be taken to see that   
perfect threads are cut on the pipe and 
that the threads of the fittings are    
perfect4 ,the dies should be set right  
and not varied on each joint4 ,there    
should be plenty of oil used when       
threads are cut so that the thread will 
be clean and sharp4 ,the follower or    
guide on stocks should be the same size 
as the pipe that is being threaded1     
otherwise a crooked thread will result4 
,if a pipe-threading machine is used1   

the pipe is set squarely between the    
jaws of the vise that holds the pipe in 
place4 ,when cutting a thread on a long 
length of pipe1 the end sticking out    
from the machine must be supported      
firmly so that no strain will come on   
the machine as the pipe turns4 ,it is   
necessary to cut crooked threads        
sometimes on the pipe to allow the pipe 
pitch for drainage or to bring the pipe 
into alignment where fitting would take 
up too much room4 ,to cut a crooked     
thread on a piece of pipe1 simply leave 
the follower out of the stock or put in 
the size larger4 ,the dies not having a 
guide will cut a crooked thread4 ,piping
 should be run with as few threads as   
possible4 ,with a thorough knowledge of 
and the intelligent use of fittings1 a  
minimum number of threads will result4  
,the pipes in a building are run in     
compact parallel lines in chases        
designed especially for them4 ,the      
tendency is to confine the pipes to     
certain localities as much as possible4 

,this makes a very neat job and in case 
repairs are needed1 the work and trouble
 incurred will be confined to one       
section4   ,,fittings  ,the fittings    
used in screw pipe work are cast-iron   
recess type 7see ,fig4 #ed74 ,the       
fittings are so made that the inside    
bores of the pipe and the fittings come 
in direct line with each other1 thus    
making a smooth inside surface at all   
bends4 ,the fittings are all heavily    
galvanized4 ,all fittings should be     
examined on the inside for any lumps of 
metal of sufficient size to catch solid 
waste matter1 and these must be removed 
or the fitting discarded4 ,all #ij deg4 
bends1 whether ,ts or elbows1 are tapped
 to give the pipe that connects with    
them a pitch of at least #a_/d inch to  
the foot4 ,except where obligatory1 #ij 
deg4 fittings should not be used4 ,to   
make a bend of #ij deg4 a ,y-branch1 a  
nipple and a #de deg4 bend should be    
used1 or two #de deg4 bends will make a 
long easy sweep of the drainage pipes   

and reduce the possibility of stoppage4 
,y-branches are inserted every #cj feet 
at least to allow for a clean-out which 
can be placed in the branch of the      
fitting4 ,when a clean-out is placed an 
iron plug should not be used4 ,these    
plugs are not removed very often and an 
iron plug will rust in and be almost    
impossible to get out4 ,brass clean-out 
plugs are used and are easily taken out4
  ,at times it is necessary to connect  
cast iron and wrought iron1 or in a line
 where a union could be used if the pipe
 were not a waste pipe1 a tucker fitting
 is used4 ,this fitting is threaded on  
one end and has a socket on the other to
 allow for caulking4 ,to get a good idea
 of all the fittings in general use1 the
 reader should get a catalogue from one 
of the fitting manufacturers and a      
survey of it will give the names and    
sizes of the fittings4 ,however1 ,i show
 a few common ones4 ,in the writer's    
opinion1 the studying of the catalogue  
would be of more benefit than a         

description of fittings at this point4  
,the sizes used and the methods employed
 to vent the waste-pipe systems are the 
same as in cast-iron work4   ,,hangers  
,,and ,,supports  ,the hanging of screw 
pipe is a very essential point4 ,the    
taking of the strain off from a fitting 
or line of pipe by the use of a hanger  
is the means of avoiding serious trouble
 after a job is completed4 ,on          
horizontal runs hangers are placed not  
more than #h feet apart4 ,in a building 
constructed of wood1 the hangers are    
secured to the joists4 ,in a building   
constructed of steel beams and concrete 
the hangers are secured to the steel    
beams by means of ,i-beam hangers that  
clamp on the beams2 also in the case of 
concrete the hangers are extended       
through the floor and a ,t is put on the
 hanger on top of the cement floor2 an  
iron bar or a short piece of smaller    
pipe run through the ,t holds the hanger
 in place and secures it rigidly4 ,the  
finished floor is laid over the hanger  

so that it does not show from the top4  
,hangers on the vertical lines should be
 placed at every joint and under each   
fitting4 ,to have the pipe in true      
alignment1 the hangers must be hung and 
placed in line4 ,every riser line must  
have an extra support at the base to    
avoid any settling of the stack which   
will crack the fittings and break       
fixture connections4   ,,measurements   
,the proper installation of screw pipe  
work requires getting correct and       
accurate measurements4 ,every plumber is
 or should be able to get correct center
 to center1 center to end1 end to end1  
center to back1 and end to back         
measurements4 ,in ,durham work #de deg4 
angles are continually occurring4 ,to   
get these measurements correctly1 the   
following table has been compiled as    
used by the author and found to be      
correct4 ,the reader should memorize it 
so that it may be used without referring
 to the book4       ,,measurements      
-------------------------------------   

,soil pipe  ,screw pipe  ,multiplier    
-------------------------------------   
#a_/f  bend      #fj         #a4ae      
#a_/h           #de         #a4da       
#a_/ab          #cj         #b4         
#a_/af          #bb-a_/b     #b4fa      
#a_/cb          #aa-a_/d     #e4ab      
#a_/fd           #e-e_/h    #aj4bb      
-------------------------------------   
,before any measurements are taken1 the 
lines of pipe are laid out and the      
position of each fitting known4 ,as ,i  
have stated before1 the plumber must    
look ahead with his work4 ,he must have 
the ability of practically seeing the   
pipe in place before the work is        
started4 ,this requires experience and  
judgment4 ,before the measurements are  
taken and the pipe cut consideration    
must be given to the fact that the      
fittings and pipes must be screwed into 
position4 ,therefore1 can the fitting on
 the pipe be placed where it is laid out
 when this is considered8 must be one of
 the many questions a plumber should ask

 himself4 ,allowance must be made for   
the chain tongs to swing4 ,whenever     
possible1 a fitting is made up on the   
pipe while the pipe is in the vise4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--,the offset 
is ,b or #ab inches center to center4   
,the offset is made using #de degree    
fittings4 ,therefore the length of ,a   
from the center of one fitting to the   
center of the other is ,b x #a4da  #ab x
 #a4da  #af4ib inches4   ,,fixture      
,,connections  ,the fixture connections 
when screw pipe is used are necessarily 
different than when cast-iron pipe is   
used4 ,a brass nipple is wiped on a     
piece of lead pipe and then screwed into
 the fitting left for the closet        
connection4 ,the lead is flanged over   
above the floor and the closet set on   
it4 ,the lead is soldered to a brass    
flange4 ,the brass flange is secured to 
the floor and then the closet bowl      
secured to the brass flange4 ,another   
method employed is to screw a brass     
flange into the fitting so that when it 

is made up the flange will come level   
with the floor2 the closet bowl is then 
secured to this flange4 ,there are a    
number of patented floor flanges for    
closet bowl connections that can be used
 to advantage4 ,slop sinks have         
practically the same connections as the 
closets4 ,other fixtures such as the    
urinal1 lavatory1 and bath1 can be      
connected with a short piece of lead    
wiped on a solder nipple1 or the        
trimmings for the fixture can be had    
with brass having iron pipe size        
threads1 and the connection can then be 
made directly with the outlet on the    
waste line4 ,this is a very general way 
to describe the connections1 but space  
will not allow a detailed description of
 these connections4 ,it is always well  
to allow for short lead connections for 
fixtures so that the lead will give if  
the stack settles4     ,,chapter ,,xvii 
,,gas ,,fitting1 ,,pipe ,,and           
,,fittings1 ,,threading1 ,,measuring1   
,,and ,,testing   ,,gas ,,and ,,its     

,,use ,,in ,,buildings  ,gas is in      
common use in all classes of buildings  
today4 ,dwellings use it for cooking and
 illuminating1 factories1 office        
buildings1 and public buildings for     
power4 ,in some parts of the country    
natural gas is found4 ,in these places  
it is used freely for heating fuel4 ,the
 actual making of gas is something that 
every plumber should understand4 ,if    
space permitted ,i would describe a gas 
plant with all of its by-products4      
,however1 we shall deal only with the   
actual installation of gas piping in    
buildings4 ,gas mains are run through   
the streets the same as water mains are 
run4 ,branches are taken off these mains
 and extended into the buildings        
requiring gas4 ,the gas company         
generally installs the gas service pipe 
inside of the basement wall and places a
 stop cock on it free of charge4 ,this  
stop that is placed on the pipe is a    
plug core type1 the handle for turning  
it off is square1 and a wrench is       

required to turn it4 ,the square top has
 a lug on it4 ,there is also a lug      
corresponding to it on the body of the  
valve4 ,when the valve is shut off1     
these two lugs are together4 ,each lug  
has a hole in it large enough for a     
padlock ring to pass through4 ,this     
gives the gas company absolute control  
of the gas in the building4  ,,setting  
,,of ,,the ,,meter4--,every building    
that is supplied with gas has a meter   
that registers the amount of gas        
consumed4 ,this meter is placed on the  
service pipe on the house side of the   
above-mentioned stop cock4 ,this meter  
is furnished free of charge with a      
trivial charge made for setting up4 ,the
 actual setting of this meter is not    
made until the piping throughout the    
building has had a thorough and         
satisfactory test and is found free from
 all leaks4 ,the meter must be set level
 on a substantial bracket and in a      
place1 if possible1 where it will not   
require an artificial light to read its 

dial4 ,the dry meter is usually used in 
dwellings4 ,the interesting construction
 and mechanism of this meter cannot be  
discussed here4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4  
#gg4--;,gas-meter dials4  ,the reading  
of the dials on a gas meter comes in the
 province of the plumber and he should  
be able to read them4 ,the sketch shows 
the dial plate of a meter4 ,the ordinary
 house meter has only three recording   
dials4 ,large meters have five or more4 
,to read the amount of gas consumed     
according to the meter we will read the 
dials as they are indicated on ,fig4    
#gg4 ,we will call the four dials ,no4  
#a1 ,no4 #b1 ,no4 #c and ,no4 #d4 ,in   
each of these dials a complete          
revolution of the index hand denotes    
#a1jjj1 #aj1jjj1 #ajj1jjj and           
#a1jjj1jjj1 cubic feet respectively4    
,the index hands on ,no4 #a and ,no4 #c 
revolve in the same direction1 while    
,no4 #b and ,no4 #d revolve in the      
opposite direction4 ,two ciphers are    
added to the figures that are indicated 

on the dials and the statement of the   
meter will be had4 ,to tell just how    
much gas has been consumed in a given   
time1 the statement of the meter is     
taken at the beginning of this given    
time and at the end of the time4 ,the   
difference in the figures indicates the 
number of cubic feet of gas that have   
been consumed4 ,a gas cock should be    
placed on the house side of the meter4  
,the dials of meter read #feh1hjj cubic 
feet4 ,the dial having the highest      
number is read first ,no4 #d dial points
 to #f1 this indicates that ,no4 #c dial
 has revolved #f times4 ,dial ,no4 #c   
reads #e1 therefore the reading of dial 
,no4 #c and ,no4 #d is #fe4 ,dial ,no4  
#b reads #h making the readings of the  
three dials #feh4 ,dial ,no4 #a reads #h
 making the readings of the four dials  
#fehh add two ciphers to this figure and
 #feh1hjj is the correct reading4       
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4  ,,pipe ,,and
 ,,fittings4--,the pipe used in gas     

fitting is wrought iron or steel4 ,in   
special places1 rubber hose is used4    
,brass pipe is occasionally used to     
advantage4 ,the fittings used in iron   
pipe gas work should be galvanized4 ,no 
plain fittings should be allowed4 ,the  
plain fittings very often have sand     
holes in them and a leak will result4   
,sometimes this leak does not appear    
until after the piping has been in use  
some time and the expense of replacing  
the fitting can only be guessed at4 ,by 
using galvanized fittings1 this trouble 
will be eliminated4 ,all fittings used  
should be of the beaded type4 ,the      
fitting and measurement of this work is 
practically the same as described under 
iron pipe work4 ,to have the beginner   
get a clearer idea of gas-piping a      
building1 the piping of the small       
building sketched will be gone over in  
detail and studied4 ,one of the first   
important steps that a gas fitter is    
confronted with is the locating of the  
various lights and openings4 ,with these

 located as shown on the plan1 ,figs4   
#gh1 #gi and #hj1 we will proceed to    
work out the piping4 ,the first floor   
rise will be #a-;inch1 the second floor 
will be #a-;inch4 ,the horizontal pipe  
supplying the first floor outlets will  
be #c_/d-;inch pipe4 ,the horizontal    
pipe on the second floor will be        
#c_/d-;inch4 ,the balance of the pipe   
will be #c_/h- or #a_/b-;inch4 ,at this 
point your attention is called to the   
sketch of piping1 sizes1 and            
measurements4 ,this sketch should be    
studied and understood in detail4 ,the  
good mechanic will employ a sketch of   
this kind when installing any piping4   
,the poor mechanic will take two or     
three measurements and get them out1 put
 them in1 and then get some more4 ,this 
method is extremely costly and          
unworkmanlike4 ,there is no reason1     
except the ability of the workman1 why  
he cannot take a building like the      
sketch and get all the piping           
measurements for the job1 then get them 

out1 go to the job and put them in4 ,the
 amount of time saved in this way is so 
great that a workman should not consider
 himself a full-fledged mechanic until  
he can get the measurements this way1   
and get them accurately4 ,with a tape   
line1 gimlet1 and plumb-bob1 a mechanic 
is fully equipped with tools to get his 
measurements4 ,if the measurements are  
taken with a tape line1 the same tape   
line should be used when measuring the  
pipe and cutting it4 ,when laying out   
the piping1 never allow a joist to be   
cut except within #f inches of its      
bearing4 ,it is good policy never to cut
 timber unless absolutely necessary and 
then only after consulting with the     
carpenter4 ,when joists have to be      
notched they should be cut only on the  
top side4 ,the pipe as it is put in     
place should be braced rigidly4         
,wherever there is an outlet pipe       
extending through the wall1 the pipe    
should be braced from all sides so that 
when the fixture is screwed in it will  

be perfectly rigid4  ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #hj4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4      
#ha4--,pipe sketch4  ,the measurements  
on the piping sketch1 ,fig4 #ha1 are    
taken from the accompanying sketch of a 
dwelling1 and if they were to be        
actually put in1 they would fit4 ,the   
reader would do well to copy this sketch
 and follow the piping and check the    
measurements according to the plan1 and 
note how the different risers1 drops1   
etc41 are drawn4 ,it is not necessary in
 a sketch of this kind to draw to a     
scale4 ,after the different measurements
 are the letters ,c4,c41 ,e4,c41 ,e4,e41
 ,c4,b4 and ,e4,b41 meaning center to   
center1 end to center1 end to end1      
center to back1 and end to back1        
respectively4 ,offsetting pipe is a very
 convenient way of getting the pipe or  
fittings back to the wall for support4  
,to offset pipe properly and with little
 trouble1 take a piece of scantling #b  
by #d and brace it between the floor and
 ceiling4 ,bore a few different-sized   

holes through it and you will have a    
very handy device for offsetting pipe4  
,there is a little trick in offsetting  
pipe that one will have to practice to  
obtain4 ,the pipe must be held firmly in
 the place where the pipe is to be bent4
 ,large offsets and bends should not be 
made2 #b to #d inches is as large as    
should be used4 ,larger offsets that are
 required should be made with fittings4 
,always make the offsets true and have  
the ends perfectly straight4 ,before    
putting a piece of pipe permanently in  
place1 always look or blow through it1  
to ascertain if its bore is obstructed  
or not4 ,sometimes dirt or slag will    
collect and cause stoppage4  ,,reading  
,,the ,,pipe ,,sketch4--,vertical lines 
represent vertical pipes 7see ,fig4     
#ha74 ,horizontal lines represent       
horizontal pipes running parallel to the
 front4 ,diagonal lines represent       
horizontal pipes running from back to   
front4 ,any line that is drawn          
perpendicular to any other line stands  

for a horizontal pipe4 ,a diagonal line 
separating a vertical line or horizontal
 line or set of lines represents a      
different horizontal plane4 ,with this  
explanation the sketch will be made     
clear to one after drawing it4 ,the     
reader should now take each measurement 
and check it on the plan4 ,this is      
easily done by using a scale rule4 ,the 
height of the ceiling is #h-a_/b feet on
 the first floor1 the second floor is #h
 feet4 ,the first floor joists are #aj  
inches1 the second floor joists are #i  
inches4 ,an outlet is indicated by a    
small circle4 ,in the piping sketch1    
this circle is connected with the riser 
or drop by a horizontal line4 ,at the   
junction of these two lines a short     
perpendicular line is drawn1 and        
indicates the direction of the outlet4  
,let me again emphasize the need to     
understand thoroughly this piping       
sketch1 and to become so familiar with  
it that it can readily be put to use4   
,the value of a mechanic is determined  

by the quality and the quantity of work 
that he can turn out2 and a mechanic who
 can lay out his work and see it        
completed before he starts1 and then    
proceeds to install his work1 is by far 
of more value to his employer than the  
man who can see only far enough ahead to
 cut out two or three measurements and  
spends most of his time walking between 
the vise and place of installing the    
pipe4  ,,testing4--,the system of gas   
piping must be tested before the pipes  
have been covered by the advance of     
building operations4 ,if the job is of  
considerable size1 the job can be tested
 in sections1 and if found tight the    
sections can be covered4 ,the necessity 
of having the piping rigidily secured   
can be appropriately explained here4 ,if
 the test has been made and the system  
found tight and some pipe that is not   
securely anchored is accidentally or    
otherwise pushed out of place and bent  
by some of the mechanics working about  
the building1 a leak may be caused and  

yet not discovered until the final test 
is made after the plastering is         
finished4 ,the expense and trouble thus 
caused is considerable and could have   
been avoided by simply putting in the   
proper supports for the pipe4  ,to test 
the piping1 an air pump and a gage      
connected with the pipes are placed in a
 convenient position4 ,the job should   
now be thoroughly gone over1 making sure
 that all plugs and caps are on and that
 no outlet is open1 also that all pipe  
that is to be put in has been installed4
 ,after this has been attended to1 the  
pump is operated until #aj pounds is    
registered on the gage4 ,the connection 
leading to the pump and the piping is   
now shut off4 ,if the gage drops        
rapidly1 there is a bad leak in the     
system4 ,this leak should be found      
without difficulty and repaired4 ,if the
 gage drops slowly1 it denotes a very   
small leak1 such as a sand hole or a bad
 thread4 ,this kind of leak is more     
troublesome to find4 ,when it has been  

found1 the pipe or fitting causing the  
leak should be taken out and replaced4  
,if black caps have been used to cap the
 outlets1 the chances are that a sand   
hole will be found in one of them4      
,nothing but galvanized fittings should 
be used4 ,in case the small leak        
mentioned above cannot be found by going
 over the pipe once1 there are other    
means of locating the leak4 ,two of the 
methods used1 ,i will explain4 ,if the  
job is small1 each fitting is painted   
with soap suds until the fitting is     
found that causes the leak4 ,if the leak
 is not in the fittings1 then the pipe  
can be gone over in the same way4 ,as   
soon as the soap suds strikes the leak1 
a large bubble is made and the leak     
discovered4 ,it is possible that there  
are more leaks1 so the gage is noted and
 if it still drops1 the search should be
 continued4 ,the pump should be operated
 to keep the pressure up to #aj pounds  
while the search is being made for the  
leak4 ,when the gage stands at #aj      

pounds without dropping1 the job is then
 tight4 ,the pump and gage fitting      
should be gone over first to ascertain  
if they leak4 ,the other method employed
 to discover leaks is to force a little 
ether or oil of peppermint 7not essence7
 into the system by means of the pump4  
,a leak can readily be noted by the     
odor4 ,to make this method successful1  
the ether or peppermint should not be   
handled by the men who are to hunt for  
the leak4 ,the bottle containing the    
fluid should not be opened in the       
building except to pour some into the   
piping1 otherwise the odor will get into
 the building and as the odor comes out 
of the leak it will not be noted4 ,for  
the benefit of the gas fitter1 the      
piping should be tested again after the 
plastering is completed4 ,the next test 
is made when the fixtures are put on1   
and as the piping is tight any leak that
 develops in this test indicates that   
the fixtures leak4 ,there are in common 
use various methods to stop leaks in gas

 pipe when they are found4 ,if a piece  
of piping or a fitting is defective1 it 
should be taken out and replaced4 ,this 
should be remembered so that while the  
piping is being installed any defects   
should be noted and the defective       
fitting or pipe thrown out4 ,before the 
gas job is accepted1 the gas company    
will inspect it and look for traps and  
sags in the pipe4 ,therefore1 the piping
 should be installed without any traps  
and it should be arranged to pitch      
toward the meter1 or toward a convenient
 place from which any condensation can  
be taken out4 ,if provision is not made 
for this condensation1 it will          
accumulate and stop the flow of gas4    
,,shower-,,bath ,,connections           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--,shower     
stall with lead pan extending outside of
 stall4  ,the sketches show clearly the 
methods employed to make a shower-bath  
waste and stall water-tight4 ,the shower
 bath1 as a separate fixture1 is in use 
and the demand for it as a separate     

fixture is increasing rapidly4 ,this    
demand comes from the owners of private 
houses4 ,the plumber must therefore     
devise some way to make these           
connections tight and prevent any leak  
from showing in the room below4 ,this   
fixture is so constructed that all waste
 pipes and trap come under the floor    
level with no way of getting to them    
from below4 ,therefore the piping for   
this fixture must be of a permanent     
nature4 ,no pipe or trap made of        
material that is liable to give out in a
 short time should be allowed under a   
shower-bath fixture or stall4 ,the two  
sketches1 ,figs4 #hb and #hc illustrate 
two methods of connecting and making    
tight a shower stall4 ,a plumber should 
always consider it his special duty to  
make his work complete and free from all
 objections4 ,he should always prepare  
for any emergency that may occur in the 
future4 ,this is rather a big task1 yet 
the plumber when accepting all of his   
responsibilities has a big task4 ,i     

state this to the beginner and emphasize
 the all-important fact that he must    
learn to perform and think deeply of the
 elements of plumbing to be able later  
on to handle successfully the problems  
that present themselves in the plumbing 
trade4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4           
#hc4--,shower stall with lead pan       
extending six inches beyond strainer4   
,the heavy brass trap shown in the      
sketch has proved itself very           
satisfactory and can be made to fit     
almost any condition of piping or       
building construction4 ,a flashing of   
sheet lead is soldered on the trap and  
carried out to the outside edge of the  
stall where it is turned up #a inch1 or 
to the floor level4 ,when the flashing  
is carried out for only a foot on each  
side of the trap1 the possibilities of a
 leak are greater4     ,,chapter ,,xviii
  ,,plumbing ,,codes   ,the work of     
plumbing has a direct result on the     
health of the occupants of buildings2   
therefore in order that the plumbing may

 not be installed improperly and impair 
the health of the occupants1 it is      
necessary to provide a code governing   
the installation of plumbing4 ,naturally
 these laws at first were under the     
control of the health department of     
cities1 but of late years the building  
departments have assumed control of the 
codes with the result that cooperation  
with the building codes is now the      
practice rather than the exception4  ,to
 make certain the carrying out of the   
plumbing codes1 it is required that a   
plan indicating the run1 size1 and      
length of pipes1 location and number of 
fixtures of the prospective job be filed
 in the building department of the city1
 before the work is started4 ,if the    
plan is approved by the plumbing        
inspector and acceptance is sent1 then  
the work can be started4 ,after a job is
 completed a test is made and the job is
 inspected by the plumbing inspector1   
and if found to meet requirements a     
written acceptance of the work is given 

by the building department4 ,an effort  
is being made throughout the country to 
have the plumbing codes under ,state    
control rather than have a number of    
different codes in as many different    
cities and towns4 ,the ,state code can  
be so arranged that it will apply to    
either city or town4  ,the installation 
of plumbing varies in different ,states4
 ,in the northern part of the ,united   
,states all pipes which pass through the
 roof1 if less than #d-;inch must be    
increased to #d-;inch4 ,a pipe smaller  
than #d-;inch will be filled with hoar  
frost during the winter and render the  
pipe useless to perform its function as 
a vent pipe4 ,pipes laid under ground in
 the ,northern ,states must be at least 
#d feet below the surface to protect    
them from freezing4 ,in the ,southern   
,states the frost does not penetrate the
 ground to such a distance and the pipes
 can be laid on the surface4  ,following
 is a ,state or ,city plumbing code     
insofar as it relates to the actual     

installation of plumbing4       ,,sec4  
#a4 ,,plans ,,and                       
,,specifications4--,there shall be a    
separate      plan for each building1   
public or private1 or any addition      
thereto1 or alterations thereof1        
accompanied by specifications           
showing the location1 size and kind of  
pipe1 traps1 closets      and fixtures  
to be used1 which plans and             
specifications shall      be filed with 
the board or bureau of buildings4 ,the  
said plans      and specifications shall
 be furnished by the architect1         
plumber or owner1 and filed by the      
plumber4 ,all applications      for     
change in plans must be made in writing4
       ,,sec4 #b4 ,,filing ,,plans ,,and
 ,,specifications4--,plumbers before    
commencing the construction of plumbing 
work in any building      7except in    
case of repairs1 which are here defined 
to relate      to the mending of leaks  
in soil1 vent1 or waste pipes1          
faucets1 valves and water-supply pipes1 

and shall not be      construed to admit
 of the replacing of any fixture1 such  
as      water closets1 bath tubs1       
lavatories1 sinks1 etc41 or the         
respective traps for such fixtures7     
shall submit to the bureau      plans   
and specifications1 legibly drawn in    
ink1 on blanks to      be furnished by  
said board or bureau4 ,where two or more
      buildings are located together and
 on the same street1 and the            
plumbing work is identical in each1 one 
plan will be      sufficient4 ,plans    
will be approved or rejected within #bd 
hours      after their receipt4         
,,sec4 #c4 ,,material ,,of ,,house      
,,drain ,,and ,,sewer4--,house drains or
      soil pipes laid beneath floor must
 be extra heavy cast-iron      pipe1    
with leaded and caulked joints1 and     
carried #e feet      outside cellar     
wall4 ,all drains and soil pipes        
connected with      main drain where it 
is above the cellar floor shall be extra
      heavy cast-iron pipe with leaded  

joints properly secured or of      heavy
 wrought-iron pipe with screw joints    
properly secured      and carried #e    
feet outside cellar wall and all        
arrangements      for soil and waste    
pipes shall be run as direct as         
possible4      ,changes of direction on 
pipes shall be made with ,y-branches1   
both above and below the ground1 and    
where such pipes pass      through a new
 foundation-wall a relieving arch shall 
be built      over it1 with a #b-;inch  
space on either side of the pipe4       
,,sec4 #d4--,the size of main house     
drain shall be determined by      the   
total area of the buildings and paved   
surfaces to be      drained1 according  
to the following table1 if iron pipe is 
used4 ,if the pipe is terra-cotta the   
pipe shall be one size      larger than 
for the same amount of area drainage4   
----------------------------------------
--------------------------------        
,diameter       ,fall #a_/d inch per    
foot         ,fall  #a_/b inch per foot 

----------------------------------------
--------------------------------        
#d inches   #a1hjj square feet drainage 
#b1ejj square feet drainage area        
#e inches   #c1jjj square feet drainage 
#d1ejj square feet drainage area        
#f inches   #e1jjj square feet drainage 
#g1ejj square feet drainage area        
#h inches   #i1ajj square feet drainage 
#ac1fjj square feet drainage area       
#aj inches  #ad1jjj square feet drainage
  #bj1jjj square feet drainage area     
----------------------------------------
--------------------------------        
,the main house drains may be decreased 
in diameter beyond the      rain-water  
conductor or surface inlet by permission
 of the      bureau1 when the plans show
 that the conditions are such as to     
warrant such decrease1 but in no case   
shall the main house      drain be less 
than #d inches in diameter4       ,,sec4
 #e4 ,,main ,,trap4--,an iron running   
trap with two clean-outs      must be   
placed in the house drain near the front

 wall of the      house1 and on the     
sewer side of all connections4 ,if      
placed      outside the house or below  
the cellar floor the clean-outs         
must extend to surface with brass screw 
cap ferrules caulked      in4 ,if       
outside the house1 it must never be     
placed less than #d      feet below the 
surface of the ground4       ,,sec4 #f4 
,,fresh-,,air ,,inlet4--,a fresh-air    
inlet pipe must be      connected with  
the house drain just inside of the house
 trap      and extended to the outer    
air1 terminating with a return bend1    
or a vent cap or a grating with an open 
end #a foot above grade      at the most
 available point to be determined by the
 building      department4       ,the   
fresh-air inlet pipe must be #d inches  
in diameter for      house drains of #f 
inches or less and as much larger as the
      building department may direct for
 house drains more than #f      inches  
in diameter4       ,,sec4 #g4 ,,laying  
,,of ,,house ,,sewers ,,and             

,,drains4--,house sewers and      house 
drains must1 where possible1 be given an
 even grade to      the main sewer of   
not less than #a_/d inch to the foot4   
,full-sized ,y- and ,t-branch fittings  
for handhole      clean-outs must be    
provided where required on house drain  
and      its branches4 ,no clean-out    
need be larger than #f inches4          
,,sec4 #h4 ,,floor ,,drains4--,floor or 
other drains will only be      permitted
 when it can be shown to the            
satisfaction of the      department of  
building that their use is absolutely   
necessary1      and arrangements made to
 maintain a permanent water seal1 and   
be provided with check or back-water    
valves4       ,,sec4 #i4 ,,weight ,,and 
,,thickness ,,of ,,cast-,,iron          
,,pipe4--,all cast-iron      pipes must 
be uncoated excepting all laid under    
ground1 which      shall be thoroughly  
tarred1 sound1 cylindrical and smooth1  
free from cracks1 sand holes and other  
defects1 and of uniform      thickness  

and of grade known to commerce as extra 
heavy4      ,cast-iron pipe including   
the hub shall weigh not less than the   
following weights per linear foot3      
#b-;inch pipe     #e-a_/b pounds per    
foot4      #c-;inch pipe     #i-a_/b    
pounds per foot4      #d-;inch pipe     
#ac pounds per foot4      #e-;inch pipe 
#ag pounds per foot4      #f-;inch pipe 
#bj pounds per foot4      #g-;inch pipe 
#bg pounds per foot4      #h-;inch pipe 
#cc-a_/b pounds per foot4      #aj-;inch
 pipe    #de pounds per foot4           
#ab-;inch pipe    #ed pounds per foot4  
,all cast-iron pipe must be tested to   
#ej pounds and marked with      the     
maker's name4       ,all joints in      
cast-iron pipe must be made with picked 
oakum      and molten lead and caulked  
gas-tight4 ,twelve ounces of soft       
pig lead must be used at each joint for 
each inch in the      diameter of the   
pipe4       ,,sec4 #aj4 ,,wrought-,,iron
 ,,and ,,steel ,,pipe4--,all            
wrought-iron and      steel pipe shall  

be galvanized4 ,fittings used for       
drainage      must be galvanized and of 
recess type known as drainage           
fittings4 ,all fittings used for venting
 shall be galvanized      and of the    
style known as steam pattern4 ,no plain 
black pipe      or fittings will be     
permitted4       ,,sec4 #aa4            
,,sub-,,soil ,,drains4--,sub-soil drains
 must be discharged      into a sump or 
receiving tank1 the contents of which   
must be      lifted and discharged into 
the drainage system above the           
cellar floor by some approved method4   
,where directly      sewer-connected1   
they must be cut off from the rest of   
the      building and plumbing system by
 a brass flap valve on the      inlet to
 the catch basin and the trap on the    
drain from the      catch basin must be 
water-supplied4       ,,sec4 #ab4 ,,yard
 ,,and ,,area ,,drains4--,all yard1 area
 and court      drains when             
sewer-connected must have connection not
 less than      #d inches in diameter4  

,they should be controlled by one       
trap--the leader trap if possible4 ,all 
yards1 areas and courts      must be    
drained4 ,tenement houses and lodging   
houses must have      yards1 areas and  
courts drained into sewer4       ,,sec4 
#ac4 ,,use ,,of ,,old ,,drains ,,and    
,,sewers4--,old house drains and        
sewers may be used in connection with   
new buildings or new      plumbing1 only
 when they are found1 on examination by 
the      department of building1 to     
conform in all respects to the          
requirements governing new sewers and   
drains4 ,all extensions      to old     
house drains must be of extra heavy     
cast-iron pipe4       ,,sec4 #ad4       
,,leader ,,pipes4--,all building shall  
be provided with      proper metallic   
leaders for conducting water from the   
roofs in      such manner as shall      
protect the walls and foundations of    
such      buildings from injury4 ,in no 
case shall the water from such          
leaders be allowed to flow upon the     

sidewalk but the same      shall be     
conducted by a pipe or pipes to the     
sewer4 ,if there      is no sewer in the
 street upon which such building fronts1
      then the water from said leader   
shall be conducted1 by proper      pipes
 below the surface of the sidewalk1 to  
the street gutter4       ,inside leaders
 shall be constructed of cast iron1     
wrought iron      or steel1 with roof   
connections made gas-and water-tight by 
means of heavy copper drawn tubing      
slipped into the pipe4 ,the      tubing 
must slip at least #g inches into the   
pipe4 ,outside      leaders may be of   
sheet metal1 but they must connect with 
the      house drain by means of        
cast-iron pipe extending vertically #e  
feet above grade level1 where the       
building is located along      public   
driveways or sidewalks4 ,where the      
building is located      off building   
line1 and not liable to be damaged the  
connection      shall be made with iron 
pipe extending #a foot above the grade  

level4       ,all leaders must be       
trapped with running traps of cast iron1
      so placed as to prevent freezing4 
,rain leaders must not be used as soil1 
waste or vent pipes1      nor shall such
 pipes be used as rain leaders4         
,,sec4 #ae4--;,,exhaust ,,from ,,steam  
,,pipes1 ,,etc4--,no steam discharge    
or exhaust1 blow-off or drip pipe shall 
connect with the sewer      or the house
 drain1 leader1 soil pipe1 waste or vent
 pipe4      ,such pipes shall discharge 
into a tank or condenser1 from          
which suitable outlet to the sewer shall
 be made4 ,such      condenser shall be 
supplied with water1 to help            
condensation      and help protect the  
sewer1 and shall also be supplied with  
relief vent to carry off dry steam4     
,,sec4 #af4 ,,diameter ,,of ,,soil      
,,pipe4--,the smallest diameter of soil 
pipe permitted to be used shall be #d   
inches4 ,the size of soil      pipes    
must not be less than those set forth in
 the following      tables4             

,maximum number of fixtures connected   
to3                                     
----------------------------------------
----------------------------      ,size 
of pipe  ,waste and soil combined       
,soil pipe alone                        
----------------------------------------
-------------                           
,branch       ,main         ,branch     
,main                     fixtures      
fixtures   water closets  water closets 
----------------------------------------
--------------------------              
#d-;inch          #dh          #if      
#h             #af       #d4e-;inch     
#if         #aib           #af          
#cb         #f-;inch         #bfh       
#ccf           #cd             #fh      
----------------------------------------
--------------------------       ,if the
 building is six 7#f7 and less than     
twelve 7#ab7 stories      in height1 the
 diameter shall not be less than #e     
inches4 ,if      more than twelve 7#ab7 
it shall be #f inches1 in diameter4 ,a  

building six 7#f7 or more stories in    
height1 with fixtures      located below
 the sixth floor1 soil pipe #d inches in
 diameter      will be allowed to extend
 through the roof provided the          
number of fixtures does not exceed the  
number given in the      table4 ,all    
soil pipes must extend at least #b feet 
above the      highest window1 and must 
not be reduced in size4 ,traps will     
not be permitted on main1 vertical1 soil
 or waste-pipe lines4      ,each house  
must have a separate line of soil and   
vent pipes4      ,no soil or waste line 
shall be constructed on the outside of a
      building4       ,fixtures with3   
#a to #a-a_/d-;inch traps count as one  
fixture4        #a to #a-a_/b    traps  
count as one fixture4        #a to #b   
traps count as two fixtures4        #a  
to #b-a_/b    traps count as three      
fixtures4        #a to #c        traps  
7water closets7 count as four fixtures4 
#a to #d        traps count as five     
fixtures4       ,,sec4 #ag4 ,,change    

,,in ,,direction4--,all sewer1 soil1 and
 waste      pipes must be as direct as  
possible4 ,changes in direction must    
be made with ,y- or half ,y-branches or 
one-eighth bends4      ,offsets in soil 
or waste pipes will not be permitted    
when they      can be avoided1 nor1 in  
any case unless suitable provision is   
made to prevent the accumulation of rust
 or other obstruction4      ,offsets    
must be made with fourth degree bends or
 similar      fittings4 ,the use of ,t  
,ys 7sanitary ,ts7 will be permitted on 
upright lines only4       ,,sec4 #ah4   
,,joints ,,on ,,soil ,,and ,,waste      
,,pipes4--,connection on lead      and  
cast-iron pipe shall be made with brass 
sleeve or ferrule1      of the same size
 as the lead pipe inserted in the hub of
 the      iron pipe1 and caulked with   
lead4 ,the lead must be attached to     
the ferrule by means of a wiped joint4  
,joints between lead and                
wrought-iron pipes must be made with    
brass nipple1 of same      size as lead 

pipe4 ,the lead pipe must be attached to
 the brass      nipple by means of a    
wiped joint4 ,all connections of lead   
waste pipes must be made by means of    
wiped joints4       ,short nipples on   
wrought-iron and steel pipes must be of 
thickness and weight known as extra     
heavy or extra strong4       ,brass     
ferrules must be best quality1 extra    
heavy cast brass1      not less than #d 
inches long and #b-a_/d1 #c-a_/b and    
#d-a_/b inches      in diameter and not 
less than the following weights3        
,diameters          ,weights            
#b-a_/d inches    #a pound  #j ounce4   
#c-a_/b inches    #a pound #ab ounces4  
#d-a_/b inches    #b pounds #h ounces4  
,,sec4 #ai4 ,,solder ,,nipples4--,solder
 nipples must be heavy cast      brass  
or of brass pipe1 iron pipe size4 ,when 
cast they must be      not less than the
 following weights3         ,diameters  
,weights      #a-a_/b inches    #j pound
  #h ounces4      #b     inches    #j   
pound #ad ounces4      #b-a_/b inches   

#a pound  #f ounces4      #c     inches 
#b pounds #j ounce4      #d     inches  
#c pounds #h ounces4       ,,sec4 #bj4  
,,brass ,,clean-,,outs4--,brass screw   
caps for clean-outs      must be extra  
heavy1 not less than #a_/h inch thick4  
,the screw      cap must have a solid   
square or hexagonal nut not less than #a
      inch high and a least diameter of 
#a-a_/b inches4 ,the body of      the   
clean-out ferrule must be at least equal
 in weight and      thickness to the    
caulking ferrule for the same size pipe4
       ,,sec4 #ba4 ,,lead ,,waste       
,,pipe4--,all lead waste1 soil vent and 
flush      pipes must be of the best    
quality1 known in commerce as ,d1       
and of not less than the following      
weights per linear foot3                
,diameters        ,weights      #a-a_/d 
inches    #b-a_/b pounds4      #a-a_/b  
inches    #c     pounds4      #b        
inches    #d     pounds4      #c        
inches    #f     pounds4      #d        
inches    #h     pounds4       ,all lead

 traps and bends must be of the same    
weight and      thicknesses as their    
corresponding pipe branches4            
,,sec4 #bb4 ,,roof ,,flashers4--,sheet  
lead for roof flashings must be         
#f-pound lead and must extend not less  
than #f inches from the      pipe and   
the joint made water-tight4       ,,sec4
 #bc4 ,,traps ,,for ,,bath ,,tubs1      
,,water ,,closets1 ,,etc4--,every sink1 
bath tub1 basin1 water closet1 slop     
hopper1 or fixtures having      a waste 
pipe1 must be furnished with a trap1    
which shall be      placed as close as  
practicable to the fixture that it      
serves      and in no case shall it be  
more than #a foot4 ,the waste pipe      
from the bath tub or other fixtures must
 not be connected      with a           
water-closet trap4       ,,sec4 #bd4    
,,size ,,of ,,horizontal ,,and          
,,vertical ,,waste ,,pipes1 ,,traps     
,,and ,,branches4--       ,horizontal   
and vertical    ,number of small        
fixtures           #a-a_/d-;inch        

#a           #a-a_/b-;inch              
#b           #b    -inch                
#c to #h           #b-a_/b-;inch        
#i to #bj           #c    -inch         
#ba to #dd       ,if building is ten    
7#aj7 or more stories in height1 the    
vertical waste pipe shall not be less   
than #c inches in      diameter4 ,the   
use of wrought-iron pipe for waste pipe 
#b inches      or less in diameter is   
prohibited4       ,the size of traps and
 waste branches1 for a given fixture1   
shall be as follows3                    
----------------------------------------
-----------------------                 
,size in inches                    ,kind
 of fixtures                            
-----------------                       
,trap   ,branch                         
----------------------------------------
----------------------      ,water      
closet                                  
#c      #d      ,slop sink with trap    
combined                  #c      #c    
,slop sink ordinary                     

#b      #b      ,pedestal urinal        
#c      #c      ,floor drain or wash    
#d      #d      ,yard drain or catch    
basin                     #d      #d    
,urinal trough                          
#b      #b      ,laundry trays1 two or  
five                    #b      #b      
,combination sink and tray 7for each    
fixture7  #a-a_/b  #b      ,kitchen     
sinks1 small                            
#a-a_/b  #a-a_/b      ,kitchen sinks1   
large hotel1 etc4                       
,kitchen sinks1 grease trap             
#b      ,pantry sinks                   
#a-a_/b  #a-a_/b      ,wash basin1 one  
only                          #a-a_/d   
#a-a_/d      ,bath tub                  
#b      #b      ,shower baths           
#a-a_/b  #a-a_/b      ,shower baths1    
floor                           #b      
#b      ,sitz bath                      
#a-a_/b  #a-a_/b      ,drinking         
fountains                               
#a-a_/d  #a-a_/d                        
----------------------------------------

----------------------       ,,sec4 #be4
 ,,overflow ,,pipes4--,overflow pipes   
from fixtures must in      all cases be 
connected on the inlet side of the      
traps4       ,,sec4 #bf4 ,,setting ,,of 
,,traps ,,without ,,re-,,vent4--,all    
traps must be      substantially        
supported and set true with respect to  
their      water levels4 ,no pot1 bottle
 or ,d trap will be permitted nor       
any form of trap that is not            
self-cleaning1 nor that has             
interior chambers or mechanism nor any  
trap except earthenware      ones that  
depend upon interior partitions for a   
seal4 ,in case      there is an         
additional fixture required in building 
and it is      impossible to re-vent    
pipe for the trap1 the building         
department may designate the kind of    
trap to be used4 ,this      shall not be
 construed to allow traps without       
re-vents in new      buildings4         
,,sec4 #bg4 ,,safe ,,and ,,refrigerator 
,,pipes4--,safe-waste pipes must        

not connect directly with any part of   
the plumbing system4      ,safe-waste   
pipes must discharge over an open1      
water-supplied1      publicly-placed1   
ordinary-used sink1 placed not more than
      #c-a_/b feet above the cellar     
floor4 ,the safe waste from a           
refrigerator must be trapped at the     
bottom of the line only      and must   
not discharge upon the ground floor1 but
 over an      ordinary open pan1 or some
 properly-trapped1 water-supplied       
sink1 as above4 ,in no case shall the   
refrigerator waste pipe      discharge  
into a sink located in a living room4   
,the branches on vertical lines must be 
made by means of ,y      fittings and be
 carried to the safe with as much pitch 
as      possible4 ,where there is an    
offset on the refrigerator waste        
pipe in the cellar1 there must be       
clean-outs placed4 ,these               
clean-outs must be of brass4       ,in  
tenement and lodging houses the         
refrigerator waste pipe      must extend

 above the roof1 and not be larger than 
#a-a_/b      inches and the branches not
 smaller than #a-a_/d inches4           
,refrigerator waste pipes1 except in    
tenement houses1 and all      safe-waste
 pipes1 must have brass flap valve on   
the lower      ends4 ,lead safes must be
 graded and neatly turned over beveled  
strips at their edges4       ,,sec4 #bh4
 ,,vent-,,pipe ,,material4--,material   
for vent pipes shall be      of lead1   
brass1 enameled iron or galvanized iron4
       ,,sec4 #bi4 ,,ventilation ,,of   
,,traps ,,and ,,soil ,,lines4--,traps   
shall be      protected from siphonage  
or air pressure by special vent pipes   
of a size of not less than the following
 tables3                                
----------------------------------------
----------------------                  
,maximum        ,number of traps vented 
length in feet         ,size of pipe    
----------------------------------------
----                            ,mains  
,branch      ,main vertical             

----------------------------------------
---------------------                   
#a-a_/d-;inch vent      #bj feet      #a
                #a-a_/b-;inch vent      
#dj feet      #b or less        #b-;inch
 vent          #fe feet     #aj or less 
#bj or less       #b-a_/b-;inch vent    
#ajj feet     #bj or less    #dj or less
       #c-;inch vent        #aj or more 
#fj or less   #ajj or less              
stories                                 
----------------------------------------
---------------------       ,the branch 
vent shall not be less than the         
following sizes3       #a-a_/d inches in
 diameter for #a-a_/d inch trap4        
#a-a_/b inches in diameter for #a-a_/b  
inch to #b-a_/b inch trap4      #b      
inches in diameter for #c inch to #d    
inch trap4      ,one-half their         
diameter1 for traps #c inches and over4 
,where two or more closets are placed   
side by side1 on a      horizontal      
branch1 the branch line shall have a    
relief      extended as a loop4 ,a pipe 

#b inches in diameter shall be          
sufficient as a loop vent for two       
closets4 ,a pipe #c inches in           
diameter shall be sufficient as a relief
 for three or four      closets2 and    
where more than four closets are located
 on the      same branch the relief     
shall not be less than #d inches in     
diameter4 ,all house drains and soil    
lines on which a water      closet is   
located must have a #d-;inch main vent  
line4 ,where an      additional closet  
is located in the cellar or basement1   
and      within #aj feet of main soil or
 vent line1 no relief vent will      be 
required for said closet2 but where it  
is more than #aj      feet1 a #b-;inch  
vent line will be required4 ,relief vent
 pipes      for water closets must not  
be less than #b inches in diameter1     
for a length of #dj feet1 and not less  
than #c inches in      diameter1 for    
more than #dj feet4       ,no re-vent   
from traps under bell traps will be     
required4       ,in any building having 

a sewer connection with a private or    
public sewer used for bell-trap         
connections or floor drainage      only1
 a #b-;inch relief line must be extended
 to the roof of the      building from  
rear end of main4 ,house drains1        
constructed for      roof drainage only1
 will not require a relief vent4        
,a floor trap for a shower shall be     
vented1 unless located in      the      
cellar or ground floor the paving of    
which renders the      trap             
inaccessible4       ,,sec4 #cj4         
,,horizontal ,,vent ,,pipes4--,where    
rows of fixtures are      placed in a   
line1 fitting of not less than #de deg4 
to the      horizontal must be used on  
vent lines to prevent filling with      
rust or condensation2 except on brick or
 tile walls1 where it      is necessary 
to channel same for pipes1 #ij deg4     
fittings will be      allowed4 ,trapped 
vent pipes are strictly prohibited4 ,no 
vent      pipe from the house side of   
any trap shall connect with the         

ventilation pipe or with sewer1 soil or 
waste pipe4       ,,sec4 #ca4 ,,offset  
,,on ,,vent ,,lines4--,all offsets on   
vent lines must      be made at an angle
 of not less than #de deg4 to the       
horizontal1      and all lines must be  
connected at the bottom with a soil or  
waste pipe1 or the drain1 in such manner
 as to prevent the      accumulation of 
rust1 scale or condensation4       ,no  
sheet metal1 brick1 or other flue shall 
be used as a vent      pipe4            
,,sec4 #cb4 ,,setting ,,of              
,,fixtures4--,all fixtures must be set  
open      and free from all enclosing   
woodwork4 ,water closets and            
urinals must not be connected directly  
or flushed from the      water-supply   
pipes except when flushometer valves are
 used4      ,each water closet must be  
flushed from a separate cistern1 the    
water from which is used for no other   
purpose1 or may be      flushed through 
flushometer valves4       ,rubber       
connection and elbows are not permitted4

       ,pan1 plunger1 or hopper closets 
will not be permitted in any            
building4 ,no range closet either wet or
 dry1 nor any      evaporating system of
 closets shall be constructed or allowed
      inside of any building4       ,a  
separate building constructed especially
 for the purpose1      must be provided 
in which such range closets shall be    
set4       ,all earthenware traps must  
have heavy brass floor flange           
plates1 soldered to the lead bends and  
bolted to the trap      flange1 and the 
joint made permanently secure and       
gas-tight4       ,in all buildings      
sewer-connected there must be at least  
one      water closet in each building4 
,there must be a sufficient      number 
of water closets so that there will     
never be more than      #ae people to   
each water closet4       ,separate water
 closets and toilet rooms must be       
provided for      each sex in buildings 
used as workshops1 office buildings1    
factories1 hotels and all places of     

public assembly4       ,in all buildings
 the water closet and urinal apartments 
must      be ventilated into the outer  
air by windows opening on the      same 
lot as the building is situated on or by
 a ventilating      skylight placed over
 each room or apartment where such      
fixtures are located4       ,in all     
buildings the outside partition of any  
water closet or      urinal apartment   
must be air-tight and extend to the     
ceiling      or be independently ceiled 
over4 ,when necessary to light such     
apartments properly the upper part of   
the partition must be      provided with
 translucent glass4 ,the interior       
partitions of      such apartments must 
be dwarfed partitions4       ,in        
alteration work where it is not         
practicable to ventilate a      closet  
or urinal apartment by windows or       
skylight to the outer      air1 there   
must be provided a sheet-iron duct      
extending to the      outer air1 the    
area of the duct must be at least #add  

square      inches for one water closet 
or urinal1 and an additional #gb        
square inches for each addition closet  
or urinal added      therein4           
,,sec4 #cc4 ,,urinals4--,all urinals    
must be constructed of      materials   
impervious to moisture and that will not
 corrode      under the action of urine4
 ,the floors and walls of urinal        
apartments must be lined with similar   
non-absorbent and      non-corrosive    
material4       ,the platforms and      
treads of urinal stalls must be         
connected      independently of the     
plumbing system1 nor can they be        
connected with any safe-waste pipe4     
,the copper lining of water closet and  
urinal cisterns must not      be lighter
 than #ab ounces copper1 and must be    
stamped on      lining with maker's     
name4 ,where lead is used it must not   
weigh      less than #d pounds to the   
square foot4 ,all other materials are   
prohibited4       ,,sec4 #cd4 ,,fixtures
 ,,prohibited4--,wooden wash trays1     

sinks1 or      bath tubs are prohibited 
inside buildings4 ,such fixtures must   
be constructed of non-absorbent         
materials4 ,cement or      artificial   
stone tubs will not be permitted1 unless
 approved      by the plumbing inspector
 and building department4       ,yard   
water closets will not be permitted     
except as approved by      the plumbing 
inspector and then passed by the        
building      department4       ,,sec4  
#ce4 ,,privy ,,vaults ,,and             
,,cesspools4--,no privy vault or        
cesspool for sewage1 shall be           
constructed in any part of the      city
 where a sewer is at all accessible4 ,in
 parts of the city      where no sewer  
exists privy vaults and cesspools shall 
not be      located within #b feet of   
party or street line nor within #bj     
feet of any building4 ,before these are 
constructed application      for        
permission therefore shall be made to   
the building      department4           
,,sec4 #cf4 ,,material ,,and            

,,workmanship4--,all material used in   
the      work of plumbing and drainage  
must be of good quality and free        
from defects4 ,the work must be executed
 in a thorough and      workmanlike     
manner4     ,,index         ,a          
,acid1 muriatic1 #ab        ,b          
,banjo1 #abj       ,bath-tub1 #e-f-g    
size waste1 #ii       ,bending irons1   
#ae1 #dh1 #ei       ,bib1 wiping1 #ei1  
#fh       ,bowls1 closet1 #d1 #e        
,c       ,caulking joints1 #hi1 #ij     
,cellar drainer1 #hd       ,cement1 pipe
 joint1 #abb       ,cementing1 #gb1 #gc 
,circulation1 hot water1 #abd1 #abi     
,closets1 #c1 #d1 #e       ,cocks1 stop 
and waste1 #abj       ,code-plumbing1   
#aec        brass clean-outs1 #afj      
change in direction1 #aei               
diameter of soil pipes1 #aeh            
exhaust from steam pipes1 #aeh          
filing plans1 #aed        floor drains1 
#aef        fresh-air inlet1 #aee       
joints1 #aei        laying of drains1   
#aef        lead waste pipe1 #afj       

leader pipes1 #aeg        main trap1    
#aee        materials of drains1 #aed   
old drains and sewers1 #aeg             
over-flow pipes1 #afb        plans and  
specification1 #aed        roof         
flashers1 #afj        safe and          
refrigerator pipes1 #afb        size of 
drains1 #aee          of waste pipes1   
#afa        solder nipples1 #afj        
traps1 #afj          without vents1 #afb
        yard and area drains1 #aeg      
,code1 fixtures prohibited1 #afe        
horizontal vents1 #afd        material  
and workmanship1 #aff        offsets1   
#afd        privy vaults and cesspools1 
#aff        setting of fixtures1 #afd   
urinals1 #afe        vent1 pipe         
material1 #afb        ventilation of    
traps1 #afb       ,connecting1 sewers1  
#gd       ,connections1 of fixtures1    
#aci       ,corporation cock and tap1   
#gf-gg       ,coupling1 right and left1 
#aaf       ,covering1 pipe1 #aca        
,cup joint1 #ad-ff       ,curb cock1    
#gg-ha        box1 #gh-ha               

,cutters1 pipe1 #aac       ,cutting1    
terra-cotta pipe1 #gb        cast-iron  
pipe1 #ic        ,d       ,dies1 #aab   
,drainage1 #b       ,drains1 #hb1 #hc1  
#hd1 #hg1 #ib       ,drift plugs1 #ah   
,drum trap1 #fa1 #fe1 #fh1 #ajg         
,durham work1 #acd        ,e            
,earthenware1 #c-e       ,expansion     
joints1 #abi        ,f       ,ferrule1  
brass1 #cg-dc       ,file1 #ae          
,fittings1 drainage1 #acf        gas1   
#adc        screw pipe1 #ih        soil 
pipe1 #if       ,fixtures1 #c           
,flushing1 #c       ,flux1 #ab          
,fresh-air inlet1 #aje        ,g        
,gas pipe and fittings1 #adc            
piping1 #ada1 #add       ,goose neck1   
#ha        ,h       ,half and half      
solder1 #ba       ,hammer1 #ae          
,hangers1 #aba1 #acg       ,heaters1    
flue connection1 #acj        gas coil1  
#abf        instantaneous1 #abg         
,hot water supply1 #abd       ,house    
drains1 #hf        traps1 #hg1 #ajd     
,i       ,inserting1 terra-cotta pipe1  

#gd       ,intercepting trap1 #ib1 #ic  
,iron enamelled ware1 #c        ,j      
,joints1 amount of lead and oakum1 #ig  
caulk1 #hg1 #hi        cup1 #ad         
expansion1 #abi        of sub-soil1 #hd 
overcast1 #ag        runner1 #ij        
rust1 #ig        seams1 #ai             
solder1 #ad        ,k       ,kitchen    
sinks1 #ii        ,l       ,lavatories1 
#h1 #ii       ,lead connection1 #gh     
used in caulked joints1 #hi1 #ig        
,lead pipe1 for water mains1 #hj        
preparing for wiping1 #de        use of1
 #bg       ,leaders1 pipes and traps1   
#ic       ,long screws1 #aae        ,m  
,main sewer1 #ha       ,mason trap1 #ajd
       ,measurements of piping1 #adf    
,melting point of metals1 #ba           
,metal1 wiping1 #ca       ,meter1       
reading gas1 #adb        ,n             
,nipples1 cutting and threading1 #aad   
holders1 #aad        ,o       ,oakum1   
use of1 #hi1 #ig       ,overcast joint1 
#ag1 #fg        ,p       ,paste1 #ac    
,pipe1 brass1 #hj        covering1 #aca 

cutting1 #ic        kinds of1 #abb      
service1 #ha        soil1 location1 #ie 
steel1 #ig        tell-tale1 #ajj       
terra-cotta1 #fi        threading1 #aaj 
wrought iron1 #ig       ,pipe laying1   
sewer1 #ga        water1 #gh        in  
tunnel1 #gc       ,piping1 water1 #abj  
drainage1 #ace       ,planking1 #gj1 #ga
       ,pressure1 water1 #aai        ,r 
,rain leaders1 #hf       ,reaming1 #ace 
,receptors1 showers1 #ii       ,refill1 
trench1 #ge1 #gi        tunnels1 #gi    
,right and left couplings1 #aaf         
,s       ,sanitary drains1 #ia1 #ib     
,screw-pipe work1 #acd       ,seams1    
#ai1 #fg       ,sewerage1 system of1 #hf
       ,sewers1 #fi1 #ha       ,shoe1   
use of1 #ge       ,shower stall1 #aej   
,sinks1 #b       ,soil pipe1 #ie1 #if   
,soils1 #ac       ,soldering iron1 #aa1 
#ae1 #ff       ,solders1 #ba            
,stopcock1 #de1 #fh1 #ha1 #abj          
,sulphur1 #ig       ,swab1 #gc1 #ha     
,t       ,tables1 angle measurements1   
#ach1 #aci        brass ferrules1 #afj  

fixtures and traps1 #afa        lead    
waste pipe1 #afj        measurements1   
#aaf        roof drainage1 #aee         
screw-pipe1 #acd        size of vent    
pipes1 #afc          of waste pipe1 #ii 
soil and waste pipe1 #aeh               
standard1 threads1 #aaj                 
terra-cotta pipe1 #ge        waste pipe1
 #afa        weight of cast-iron pipe1  
#aef        of solder nipples1 #afj     
,tallow1 #ac       ,tank1 storage       
connections of1 #abe       ,tell-tale   
pipe1 #ajj       ,terra-cotta pipe1 #fi1
 #ge1 #hc        cutting1 #gb           
,testing1 gas pipe1 #adh                
,thermostat1 #abd1 #abf       ,tinning1 
brass1 #ch1 #db1 #de        bib1 #ei    
,tools1 bending iron1 #ae               
caulking iron1 #hi        cold chisel1  
#hi1 #ic        file1 #ae        hammer1
 #ae        joint runner1 #ij           
ladle1 #bi        pipe cutters1 #aac    
rasp1 #ae        saw1 #ae        shave  
hook1 #ae        soldering iron1 #ae    
tap-borer1 #ae1 #dg1 #ei        turn    

pin1 #ae        vise1 #aaa              
yarning iron1 #hi       ,traps1 bag1    
#aji        centrifugal1 #aji           
cleansweep1 #ajh        drum1 #ajg      
flask1 #ajh        house1 #ajd          
intercepting1 #ib        mechanical1    
#aji        non-syphoning1 #ajg         
,s1 #aji        sure-seal1 #aji         
,trenches1 digging1 #gj1 #ha1 #hg       
refilling1 #ge        water service1 #gf
       ,tubs1 bath1 #f       ,tunnels1  
#gc        ,u       ,urinals1 #ii       
,v       ,valves1 check1 #abh           
closet1 #d        safety1 #abh          
,ventilation pipe1 #aja       ,vents1   
#ajj-ajc        ,w       ,wash trays1   
#hf1 #ii       ,water connection1 #gf   
supply1 #aah          rivers and lakes1 
#aai          streams and brooks1 #aah  
under pressure1 #aai                    
underground1 #aah       ,wiping1 #bi    
bib1 #ei        branch joints1 #di      
cloths1 #fg        drum trap1 #fa       
#b-;inch brass ferrule1 #dj             
#d-;inch brass ferrule1 #dc        round

 joint1 #ca        solder1 #ba          
stopcock1 #de     ,,transcriber',s      
,,notes   ,inconsistencies in           
hyphenation and spelling have been      
retained4  ,mid-paragraph illustrations 
have been moved for easier reading4