,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,shoe4 ,by ,,jno4 ,p4 ,,headley1 ,jr4 ,,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,,all ,,rights ,,reserved4 ,,gibson ,,brothers1 ,,printers4 #ahhb4 ,entered according to act of ,congress1 in the year #ahhb1 by ,jno4 ,p4 ,headley1 ,jr41 in the ,office of the ,librarian of ,congress1 at ,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,shoemakers are known both far and wide1 ,as men who always cut up side-- ,horse sometimes1 also cow leather1 ,to meet the changes in the weather4 ,sheep and goats are often slain2 ,both unite to make it plain ,that sheep is used for lining nice1 ,when goat alone would not suffice2 ,just so with calf as well as kid4 ,some use these linen-lined1 ,and think it quite the best1 for those ,who feel themselves refined4 ,refined or not1 we think it true ,our feet need some protection2 ,to do whate'er they have to do1 ,we make our own selection4 ,select at all times the best we can1 ,both of shoemakers as well as shoes1 ,this is much the better plan1 ,and learns us how to choose4 ,,introduction4 ,the ,author of the book in hand1 having passed through the various scenes through which he would accompany his readers1 was prompted to make this offering to the craft and the public in order to relieve his mind of the thoughts had upon the subject of making shoes1 as well as to contribute something of a literary character which1 in the broad range of possibilities1 may become useful as a text-book1 or family-book1 for those who may feel interested in making or wearing shoes1 and perhaps lead to something better4 ,realizing the imperfections and shortcomings of the human family1 to some extent at least1 no claim beyond that which you are disposed to put upon it is held1 so that any communication will be gladly received and noted4 ,this opportunity is also taken to express thanks for some valuable suggestions from the ,u4 ,s4 ,bureau of ,education1 and others1 concerning the publication of this little volume1 and in its present shape you are invited to read and make the best use of it you can4 ,author4 ,illustration ,the subject1 seated on a chair1 ,one knee the other to rest1 ,has his measure taken fair1 ,the foot at ease is best4 ,the ,artist views the foot1 ,and straightway takes the length1 ,by measuring it from heel to toe1 ,his size brings content4 ,from twelve to eighteen inches long-- ,this stick has many sizes2 ,three to the inch is now our song1 ,subject to compromises4 ,some feet have long toes behind-- ,in the language of the craft2 ,these are not so hard to find1 ,and oft to us been waft4 ,our ,artist here will best succeed1 ,if a little head he can measure1 ,for out of that comes very much ,to make the feet a treasure4 ,illustration ,next1 around the heel a strap we bring1 ,to the centre of the curve1 ,a leather or linen strap is used1 ,and don't affect the nerve4 ,the marks on this an inch represents1 ,also fractions of inch preserved2 ,when made complete it then presents ,an appearance well deserved4 ,around the heel1 ,i've already said1 ,but that is not quite so2 ,for around in part and through instead ,will make it more the go4 ,now let us here make up our minds1 ,if this trade we would study1 ,that the craft is subject to many fines ,if the subject gets very muddy4 ,illustration ,with strap in hand the instep measure-- ,be sure you get it right2 ,for at this place some have a treasure1 ,which prompts them oft to fight4 ,a little lump we will it now call1 ,not knowing the exact name of it2 ,nor let our strap the least bit fall1 ,but measure just above it4 ,when we've done this1 and done quite well1 ,another move will follow1 ,which takes us nearly on the ball1 ,and brings us from the hollow4 ,illustration ,from the hollow now we've just come out1 ,with strap in hand to take ,the measure neat1 near on the ball1 ,so that our fits won't shake4 ,if they should shake the remedy comes1 ,a false sole we do make1 ,to please our subjects at their homes ,the soles we there do take4 ,onward now the way we press1 ,and move along just so1 ,until we reach the part well known ,to be the toe1 the toe4 ,illustration ,this is the place of which folks do talk1 ,if there is any pressure1 ,because they cannot easy walk1 ,the shoey missed the measure4 ,just below the ball1 across the toes1 ,is where we next are found2 ,for there is nothing worn like shoes ,when used upon the ground4 ,from here we feel like soaring higher1 ,and soon get at the ankle1 ,which must be fit to suit the buyer1 ,thus avoiding any wrangle4 ,illustration ,the ankle reached1 we then with care ,measure neat and true2 ,if anything is noticed there1 ',twill surely be the shoe4 ,that notice is just what we want1 ,from that we get our living2 ,and if we make a miss on that1 ,it might be past forgiving4 ,from toe to ankle we have come1 ,with an uncertain height1 ,and with the measures we've put down ,will now add that right4 ,illustration ,to have the height right is our aim2 ,some like shoes high1 some low2 ,but to have them fit is all the same1 ,and this we try to show4 ,some in one way1 some in another1 ,these measures have been taken1 ,until we have them all together1 ,we should not try to shapen4 ,to work now by our measure marked ,will be our constant aim2 ,a pattern must be cut-- ,to start with that is plain4 ,but plainer still the shoe will be ,from the pattern we shall cut1 ,because we think you'll all agree ,what's opened should be shut4 ,illustration ,before our eyes the patterns come1 ,the shapes are clearly seen1 ,a vamp and quarter1 with a tongue1 ,worked just in between4 ,a stiffening of sole has found its way1 ,and asks that it be shown1 ,in order1 at some future day1 ,its use might be made known4 ,the parts1 you see1 stand thus alone1 ,but have a close relation2 ,because these parts must all be shown ,to keep their proper station4 ,one part not seen1 in shape the same1 ,is cut and called the lining1 ,upon which each quarter must be placed-- ,we'll not stop here defining-- ,illustration ,but show in this cut1 if you please1 ,the lining a little larger1 ,with the quarter pasted on it smooth1 ,if not there'll come a charger4 ,the vamp1 also1 has been changed1 ,only one-half appears1 ,the cause of which can be explained ,in less time than number years4 ,when we the lower corners take1 ,and match them well in fact1 ,the centre we at once do make1 ,which guides the following act-- ,illustration ,the act of uniting quarter and vamp1 ,with paste or cement for sewing1 ,is done with care1 as in this cut1 ,the fitness of things is showing4 ,the centre mark on the vamp we'll use1 ,to get the quarters placed best1 ,by putting the vamp upon the two1 ,one-half inch above to rest4 ,one end is reached1 but not the last2 ,this end from flax or cotton ,is made by some men very fast1 ,if the flax is not too rotten4 ,illustration ,the work which we have now passed through ,could all be done by standing1 ,having a board to cut upon1 ,and one the paste commanding4 ,but now we wish the scene to change1 ,and begin the ending act2 ,which comes first to him who would arrange ,the threads1 indeed1 intact4 ,we roll the thread upon our knee1 ,to untwist and break with ease1 ,and place the cords1 one1 two1 and three1 ,so that the points are formed1 if you please4 ,illustration ,by having the points one below the other1 ,the thread kept free from a knot1 ,we will avoid whate'er there is to bother1 ,while the past may be forgot4 ,we will let that be just as it may1 ,if wrong we'll try and mend it2 ,for surely there will come a day ,when after awl we'll send it4 ,illustration ,with the thread arranged1 as we've described1 ,twisting is quite in order2 ,the figure now shows us a how ,to twist it hard and harder4 ,when one side is twisted hard enough1 ,we simply take the other1 ,and do the same thing over again1 ,so that the threads are worked together4 ,before the ends are entirely free1 ,one thing around us lingers1 ,we take the thread1 three or two in one1 ,around our left-hand fingers4 ,illustration ,a large round awl is just the thing1 ,to do what we call milling2 ,two or three trips are sure to bring ,from fingers to foot the filling4 ,now our thread is very smooth1 ,but we try to make it smoother1 ,by using a piece of cloth to rub1 ,when done1 free all together4 ,something now is sought that sticks1 ,commonly known as wax2 ,and often one gets in a fix ,when he finds it with the tacks4 ,illustration ,but wax1 not tacks1 is what we want1 ,to make our thread quite nice2 ,we catch it in the middle1 ,and to the end wax thrice4 ,each time waxing briskly1 ,not stopping on the way1 ,for if we do we'll miss it1 ,and perhaps will have to stay4 ,our wax should be in season1 ,soft wax in winter use-- ,hard wax in summer--reason1 ,holding together our shoes4 ,illustration ,a fine point now we're about to make2 ,this part should be waxed better1 ,so that the bristle we may take1 ,shall stick like the stamp of a letter4 ,we'll stop here about the thread1 ,to take a little whistle1 ,until we find a pair to suit1 ,then begin to bristle4 ,illustration ,the bristles with care have been selected1 ,in keeping with the thread1 ,in this case we feel protected1 ,because the hog is dead4 ,from ,russia1 we are told1 the best bristles come1 ,but cannot tell you why1 ,the hairs upon our hogs at home ,are not so good to buy4 ,illustration ,the union of thread and bristle1 now1 ,will keep us to our text1 ,for from this you'll no doubt see ,what is coming next4 ,the bristle is split a little o'er half way1 ,in the left hand has its place1 ,between the finger and thumb to play ,an important part in the race4 ,one-half over the forefinger you see1 ,held in place by the next1 ,the thread and bristle both agree ,to be thus placed is best4 ,do not split but roll it on1 ,some have said and done1 ,by waxing the bristle where the other is split1 ,and continued from sun to sun4 ,illustration ,now either way to start will do1 ,as much depends on twisting1 ,the hairy part is left for you ,to make sort of whisting4 ,back to the scene from whence we came1 ,with our end in place to hasten1 ,make a hole quite through the thread1 ,the point pass through and fasten4 ,illustration ,so much about the bristle said1 ,no doubt you'll think it strange ,that needles are not used instead-- ,some have tried the change4 ,they may be used with good effect1 ,in sewing through and through2 ,but when we use a crooked awl1 ,the bristle stands by true4 ,illustration ,one more remark about the end ,we thus have kept in view1 ,to find the middle is the thing ,now left for us to do4 ,not very hard1 but easy quite2 ,in the left hand even joints-- ,the right hand holding the other end1 ,this fills up all the points4 ,illustration ,another change in things takes place1 ,this time the clamps appear2 ,between the knees they run their race1 ,and hold the upper dear4 ,the vamp and quarters as they were pasted1 ,are seen now in their place2 ,the vamp extending above the clamps1 ,with the quarters easy to trace4 ,begin to sew at extreme end2 ,put left-hand bristle first in2 ,across the vamp our sewing extend1 ,two rows that may be seen4 ,illustration ,this nicely done1 just change a little2 ,the position is clearly seen ,when we have this quarter stitched near the back1 ,say half inch in between1 ,pull through one thread and tie it tight1 ,on the inside to be left2 ,begin to sew the other quarter1 ,close at the vamp is right4 ,illustration ,sew to the back1 and then begin ,another row up the front2 ,sew to the top1 'twill be no sin1 ,but the doing of what is wont4 ,these rows1 half an inch apart1 ,will serve the present state1 ,because now we have a splendid start1 ,and getting on first rate4 ,then down the front on the other side1 ,to the vamp be sure to go2 ,never allow your work to slide1 ,but take it out just so4 ,illustration ,the front is sewed1 the back is not1 ,but it will be very soon2 ,this must never be forgot1 ,as it takes up part the room4 ,the out-sides together at the back are seen1 ,as we are about to sew ,a little strip1 put in between1 ,to make it stronger grow4 ,down to the bottom we'll sew the way1 ,until it is complete2 ,then trim the seam1 and rub it well ,with a bone found on the seat4 ,illustration ,you will observe the back is changed1 ,the linings are together2 ,this can be quite well arranged ,by whipping down this leather4 ,either whipping over and over1 or through and through1 ,just as the case may be2 ,neither way is very new ,as we may clearly see4 ,but we should do it1 and rub down flat1 ,for now the time has come ,when we have had enough of that1 ,and our upper is near done4 ,illustration ,the upper has now its right side out1 ,right-side out with care2 ,a little stitching at the top of the back ,will make it look quite fair4 ,we stopped stitching1 you remember well1 ,before we reached the back1 ,when on the quarters we did dwell1 ,and left a vacant track4 ,illustration ,that track now is filled up well1 ,yet we do hold it fast1 ,knowing that a time will come ,to put it on the last4 ,before that time is reached1 however1 ,the eyelets1 bear in mind1 ,should each be put in proper place1 ,so that the holes we find ,will let the strings pass easily through1 ,when punched and set in straight2 ,we have now the upper for our shoe1 ,do try and make the mate4 ,illustration ,this upper completed by the past1 ,has made it much a treasure1 ,for we must also have a last1 ,and fit it up to measure4 ,since we have kept our seat so long1 ,a change may rest our back2 ,so at the bench we'll take our stand1 ,close by our friend1 the jack4 ,the ,bailey jack is the name of this ,one1 screwed down upon the post2 ,for general use it will not miss1 ,but serve our end the most4 ,illustration ,lasts are made of many woods1 ,of ash1 of oak1 and maple2 ,well seasoned is this stock of goods1 ,some kinds are very staple4 ,some are made with iron plates1 ,to clinch the screw or nail1 ,but when we would a peg shoe make1 ,to use these plates would fail4 ,made1 also1 for men and boys1 ,women and girls1 for each ,has on this art a special claim1 ,their feet to train and teach4 ,to dwell here longer would not do1 ,the last we want's in the hand2 ,we'll measure the same as we did the foot1 ,and thus our trade command4 ,the length1 you know1 is measured first2 ,two sizes added on ,will make the toe so comfortable1 ,we should like to sing a song4 ,illustration ,the heel we reach in perfect order1 ,and leave the measure neat2 ,some shoes are made which look much broader ,when put upon the feet4 ,illustration ,the instep now we see again1 ,and measure as before1 ,one-half inch off will answer us1 ,no less1 and not much more4 ,for if we do we are apt to find ,the place where shoes do pinch2 ,across the ball we're now inclined1 ,still measuring by the inch4 ,illustration ,this is at times a tender spot3 ,bunions develop there2 ,and when they do 'tis not forgot1 ,we may be e'er so fair4 ,one-quarter size we leave off here1 ,as on our way we go1 ,travelling on1 without a fear1 ,until we reach the toe4 ,illustration ,another quarter we would say1 ,at this point we may drop1 ,for we are now quite far away ,from the ankle and the top4 ,but further yet1 we are bound to go1 ,the bottom must be reached1 ,where soles are made and often saved1 ',though the saver be impeached4 ,the last we put upon a side ,of white or red sole leather1 ,and mark with knife1 or pencil wide1 ,the parts of sole together4 ,the parts are known1 each one defined1 ,inner and outer sole2 ,a middle one1 when we are kind1 ,lifts and shank piece make the whole4 ,illustration ,the inner sole on the last is put1 ,the pegs just where you see ,keep the sole where it belongs1 ,in order to agree4 ,the edge is bevelled from heel to heel2 ,the mark across the breast ,shows us when and where we may ,take a little rest4 ,illustration ,the upper straight upon the last1 ,with the seams appearing right1 ,the stiffening smooth just at the back1 ,will draw upon our sight4 ,this should be done when we begin ,to draw the upper over1 ,so that the last in all its parts ,shall have a proper cover4 ,illustration ,draw steady1 until we have it close ,at the heel and at the toe2 ,if these parts should be too loose ,it would nearly spoil the shoe4 ,draw steady1 or you'll make a crack1 ,which will there remain2 ,perhaps may cause us to go back1 ,and do it over again4 ,illustration ,the upper1 in the way described1 ,drawn gently at the toe1 ,we hold it down with our left thumb1 ,while a peg we try make go4 ,on either side of the toe now work1 ,and in the same way fasten ,the upper down upon the sole2 ,to the heel we now must hasten4 ,illustration ,let the upper at the seam ,have now a secure tack2 ,the stiffening1 all straight in between ,the lining and the back4 ,be sure you get the lining smooth1 ,the part inside the shoe2 ,if it is not1 you may sometime ,have a thing to make you blue4 ,illustration ,now put the shoe upon the bench1 ,in the way shown in the cut2 ,and with a string and button ,use care to close the front4 ,we no doubt now do see the thing ,taking on a shape1 ,which1 in the end1 will surely bring ,us clear out of the scrape4 ,illustration ,the shoe is now placed on the jack2 ,a hole1 for the pin in the last1 ,serves to keep the same intact1 ,while the toe piece holds it fast4 ,now at the breast1 draw over outside1 ,close upon the sole2 ,take your time1 for something's gained1 ,while filling up the hole4 ,the awl1 you see1 should not be large2 ,in lasting use small pegs2 ,just drive them through the inner sole1 ,no danger of your legs4 ,illustration ,we will now note the difference3 ,the inside shank is longer2 ,if we would last it very smooth1 ,we must pull all the stronger4 ,the thumbs at this are very clever1 ,when their part is nicely played1 ,serving as a splendid lever1 ,while working in the shade4 ,illustration ,we are now at the inside ball-- ,be careful not to scratch it2 ,when in position we are found ,we are more apt to catch it4 ,when this we've caught1 and feel safe to leave ,for the other side1 ,we'll find the heel where the toe has been1 ,by this we must abide4 ,illustration ,everything quite in its place1 ,the future for us yet2 ,let's last the upper all around1 ',till at the toe we get4 ,still using awl in pincer hand1 ,alternating endly1 ,for at this post we've taken stand ,to grow up very friendly4 ,illustration ,the toe has crimps1 some in the heel2 ,the first is more important1 ,because the toe is always seen2 ,if rough becomes discordant4 ,these crimps are made from left to right1 ,and right to left we go2 ,then scallop them1 when to be pegged1 ,not so when it we sew4 ,illustration ,the shank piece in1 the bottom filled1 ,with crimps cut as was said1 ,already for the middle sole1 ,which forms an even bed1 ,on which we lay the outer sole2 ,the thing we look for next1 ,is moulded near the upper close1 ,and comes quite near our text4 ,illustration ,the middle sole will make us have ,a better understanding1 ,and help protect our feet from frost1 ,while we the trade commanding4 ,a strap is used around the foot1 ,the shoe upon the knee2 ,to mould the sole1 as we have said1 ,these parts should all agree4 ,illustration ,when moulded good1 edge full from last1 ,trim the sole prepared2 ,then make a line for pegs to go1 ,for in this we have shared4 ,we to our old friend jack make haste1 ,with our awl and hammer bright2 ,begin to peg on the line we've marked-- ,six to the inch is right4 ,illustration ,two rows around1 just in between1 ,each other they are put2 ,use them long enough to go clear through1 ,but save them from the foot4 ,the awl-hand picks up the pegs1 ,the hammer-hand now takes1 ,between forefinger and the thumb1 ,and for the hole it makes4 ,by repeating this we soon shall have ,our work ready for a lift2 ,but first1 smooth pegs and trim heel-seat1 ,or we'll move along too swift4 ,illustration ,the first lift on1 we'll leave it full1 ,making the centre level2 ,with our knife in hand1 not very dull1 ,we are prepared to bevel4 ,in this way the heel is built1 ,one lift upon the other2 ,pegging each will add no guilt1 ,but save our subject bother4 ,piece by piece1 until we stop ,at the proper height2 ,a solid piece used for the top ,will make it finish right4 ,illustration ,nails are driven1 both iron and steel1 ,around the top1 in mind1 ,and on the outside some prefer ,a few more nails to find4 ,hammer solid both heel and sole ,level as it can be2 ,whittle the heel down to a size ,close to the nails you'll see4 ,illustration ,the heel-shave is a tool so good1 ,to smooth the heel up nice2 ,for when around it you have gone1 ,its work will here suffice4 ,cut down the breast1 make it square1 ,sand-paper it1 if you please2 ,then change position very fair1 ,and done with perfect ease4 ,illustration ,take out the welt with a knife to suit1 ,do not cut the upper2 ,this same thing is done to the boot1 ,and neither has to suffer4 ,these tools are bought in stores1 ,known to the craft as finding2 ,some are here from foreign shores1 ,which serve us a binding4 ,illustration ,a small knife take1 and trim the edge ,from the heel1 around the toe1 ,down to the heel on the other side-- ,our shoe begins to show4 ,the bottom buffed1 all but the top1 ,sand-paper all1 now1 we think2 ,just mark a place across the shank ,to be blackened well with the ink4 ,illustration ,the bottom in this shape has come1 ,and looks as if we've parted2 ,but that's not so1 as we well know ,we are nearer than when we started4 ,the ink when burnished with hot kit-- ,a little heel ball is the thing ,to use1 so that it will be fit ,to put upon a king4 ,illustration ,our jack and company seen again1 ,the last time for the present2 ,to part1 perhaps1 will give us pain2 ,perhaps be very pleasant4 ,a burnisher for the heel1 behold6 ,use briskly when we finish1 ,for this tale is nearly told1 ,its parts seem to diminish4 ,many parts have made the whole1 ,some parts are much effected2 ,but when the parts are whole in one1 ,they do become respected4 ,illustration ,the end is reached1 we trust all safe1 ,after quite a travel2 ,though the road was rough from place to place1 ,the thread did not unravel4 ,j4 ,p4 ,h41 ,jr4