,decoration ,,h&book ,,( ,,embroid]y4 ,decoration ,,h&book ,,( ,,embroid]y ,,by ,l4 ,,higg94 ,,edit$ ,,by ,,lady ,,m>ian ,,al=d4 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,au?ority ,,( ,,! ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework1 ,,& ,,d$icat$ ,,to ,,_! ,,presid5t1 ,h4,r4,h4 ,,pr9cess ,,*ri/ian1 ,,( ,,s*leswig-,,hol/e91 ,,pr9cess ,,( ,,great ,,brita9 ,,& ,,irel&4 ,decoration ,,london3 ,,sampson ,,l[1 ,,m>/on1 ,,se>le1 ,,& ,,riv+ton1 ,,cr[n ,,build+s1 ,,fleet ,,/reet4 #ahhj4 7,all rights res]v$47 ,,note4 ,plates ,nos4 #d & #ai %[ a portion only ( ! designs by ,mr4 ,w4 ,morris & ,mr4 ,fairfax ,wade4 ,decoration ,,preface4 ,9 draw+ up ?is little ,h&book ( ,embroid]y we d n pret5d to give su* complete te*nical directions z w\ld enable a beg9n] 9 ?is beautiful art to tea* h]self2 because le>n+ )\t practical lessons mu/ be incomplete1 & c only lead to disappo9tm5t4 ,we h s\ght1 !re=e1 only to respond to ! inquiries we are con/antly receiv+1 & to supply useful h9ts to ^? :o are unable to avail !mselves ( lessons1 & are =c$ to puzzle ov] _! difficulties )\t help f a tra9$ & exp]i5c$ embroid]]2 at ! same "t1 ! rules we h laid d[n & ! directions we h giv5 may s]ve to rem9d ^? :o h pass$ ?r\gh ! classes1 ( _m little details :i* might easily be =gott5 :5 ! lessons are ov]1 ?\gh s mu* ( ! success ( embroid]y dep5ds ^u !m4 ,we h giv5 a %ort description ( ! mo/ useful /it*es1 & h po9t$ out _! applicability to diff]5t /yles ( "w2 we h nam$ ! v>i\s mat]ials :i* are be/ suit$ z gr\nds = embroid]y1 & ! silks1 filoselles1 crewels1 c41 :i* are mo/ commonly employ$1 ) practical rules = _! use 9 ! be/ & mo/ economical mann]4 ,also we h giv5 su* pla9 directions z to /ret*+1 fram+1 & clean+ ! "w z are possible 9 a limit$ space1 & )\t practical illu/ration4 ,we v5ture to hope we h ?us suppli$ a want t has be5 long felt by ^? :o int]e/ !mselves 9 ! art 9 :i* ,engli%wom5 once excell$1 b :i* _h langui%$ ( late ye>s1 & almo/ di$ out among/ u1 ?\gh x has always be5 taught 9 _m cont95tal cities1 :]e embroid]ies h nev] ceas$ to be requir$ = *ur* decoration4 ,we h ab/a9$ f giv+ any directions z to ! trac+ ( designs ^u mat]ial1 = two suffici5t reasons3 fir/ly1 t ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework has nev] suppli$ designs alone1 or 9 any o!r =m ?an z prep>$ "w2 & secondly1 t hav+ made exp]im5ts ) all ! sy/ems t h be5 br\ght out = /amp+1 iron+ f transf]-pap]s1 or ) trac+ p[d]1 x has be5 f\nd t designs c only be arti/ically & well trac$ on mat]ial by h& pa9t+4 ,^? ladies :o c design & pa9t _! own patt]ns = embroid]y are indep5d5t ( assi/ance1 & to ^? :o are unable to d s we _c recomm5d any ( ! me?ods n[ adv]tis$4 ,x has be5 ?\ght unnecess>y to ent] into ! subject ( ecclesia/ical embroid]y at pres5t4 ,?is has be5 s ?or\ghly reviv$ 9 ,engl&1 & practis$ 9 su* p]fection by si/]hoods--bo? ,anglican & ,roman ,ca?olic--z well z by "s ( ! lead+ firms ( *ur* decorators1 t we h n felt ourselves call$ ^u to d m ?an include x 9 our c\rse ( lessons4 ,! /hetic side ( our subject we h purposely avoid$1 z x w\ld lead u fur!r ?an ?is purely te*nical guide-book pret5ds to g4 ,b we propose %ortly to br+ out a second "p devot$ to design1 composition1 col\r1 & ! common-s5se mode ( treat+ decorative ,art1 z appli$ to wall-hang+1 furniture1 dress1 & ! small] objects ( luxury4 ,we %all exam9e & try to def9e ! pr9ciples :i* h guid$ ,ea/]n & ,we/]n embroid]ies at _! be/ p]iods1 hop+ ?us to save ! design]s ( ! future f repeat+ explod$ exp]im5ts aga9/ receiv$ canons ( good ta/e2 *eck+1 if we c1 ! exub]ance ( ignorant or ecc5tric g5ius1 b leav+ room = orig9ality4 ,mrs4 ,dolby1 :o by h] pres5ce & h] tea*+ help$ ,lady ,welby to />t ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 has left beh9d h] a mo/ valuable guide = m$ival "w 9 h] ,*ur* ,embroid]y1 ,anci5t & ,mod]n1 :i* w always be a fir/-class au?ority4 ,! ,au?or & ! ,editor ( ?is h&book are equally impress$ ) ! responsibility !y h und]tak5 9 =mulat+ rules = future embroid]]s4 ,!y h consult$ all ackn[l$g$ au?orities1 & f !m h select$ ^? :i* ! tea*]s 9 ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework h f\nd ! mo/ practical & in/ructive4 ,%\ld any ( _! read]s fav\r !m ) h9ts or criticisms1 or give !m in=mation z to pieces ( embroid]y wor? /udy+1 or /it*es n "h nam$1 any su* communications w be gratefully receiv$ & made use ( 9 future editions4 ,,! ,,editor4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,table ,,( ,,cont5ts4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,page #a4 ,,( ,,implem5ts ,,& ,,mat]ials ,,us$ ,,9 ,,mod]n ,,embroid]y4 ,,page ,ne$les #a ,scissors #a ,prick]s1 c4 #b ,crewels #c ,tape/ry ,wool #d ,arras5e #d ,embroid]y or ,bobb9 ,silk #e ,rope ,silk #e ,f9e ,silk #f ,purse ,silk #f ,raw or ,spun ,silk #f ,vegetable ,silk #f ,filoselle #g ,tussore #g ,gold #h ,japanese ,gold ,?read #h ,*9ese ,gold #h ,gold & ,silv] ,pass+ #h ,bullion or ,purl #h ,spangles #i ,plate #i ,recipes = ,pres]v+ ,gold #aj ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,page #aa4 ,,textile ,,fabrics ,,us$ ,,z ,,gr\nds ,,= ,,embroid]y4 ,l95s #aa ,flax #aa ,twill #aa ,kirriemuir ,twill #aa ,sailclo? #ab ,oatcake ,l95 #ab ,oatmeal ,l95 #ab ,smock ,l95 #ab ,bolton1 or ,workh\se ,%eet+ #ab ,sat9s & ,silks #ad ,silk ,%eet+ #ad ,tussore & ,corah ,silks #ae ,pla9 ,tape/ries #ae ,brocat9e #ae ,cotton & ,wooll5 #af ,velvete5 #af ,utre*t ,velvet #af ,velvet ,clo? #af ,felt #af ,diagonal ,clo? #af ,s]ge #ag ,s(t1 or ,sup] ,s]ge #ag ,cricket+ ,flannel #ag ,g5oa or ,lyons ,velvet #ag ,silk ,velvet ,plu% #ag ,clo?s ( ,gold & ,silv] #ah ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,page #ai4 ,,/it*es4 ,/em ,/it* #ai ,split ,/it* #bb ,sat9 ,/it* #bc ,blanket ,/it* #bc ,button-hole ,/it* #bd ,knott$ ,/it* #bd ,*a9 ,/it* #bg ,twi/$ ,*a9 #bh ,fea!r ,/it* #bi ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,page #cc4 ,frames & ,fram+ #cc ,,*apt] ,v4 ,page #cg4 ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,frame ,,embroid]y4 ,fea!r ,/it* #cg ,c\*+ or ,laid ,embroid]y #ci ,net-patt]n$ ,c\*+ #da ,brick ,/it* #da ,diap] ,c\*+s #db ,basket ,/it* #db ,spani% ,embroid]y #dc ,cross ,/it* #de ,simple ,cross ,/it* #df ,p]sian ,cross ,/it* #df ,burd5 ,/it* #ej ,/em ,/it* #ea ,japanese ,/it* #ea ,tamb\r ,"w #ea ,opus ,anglicum #eb ,cut ,"w #ed ,inlaid ,appliqu #ed ,onlaid ,appliqu #ed ,gold ,embroid]y #eg ,back+ #eh ,/ret*+ & ,f9i%+ #ei ,embroid]y ,pa/e #ei ,clean+ #fj ,,illu/rations4 ,description ( ! ,plates #fb ,sixte5 ,plates1 conta9+ #bd ,designs #fe to #if ,decoration ,decoration ,,h&book ,,( ,,embroid]y4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,( ,,mat]ials ,,& ,,implem5ts ,,us$ ,,9 ,,mod]n ,,embroid]y4 ,,implem5ts4 ,ne$les4--,! be/ embroid]y ne$les = ord9>y crewel h&work are ,nos4 #e & #f4 ,= co>se sailclo?1 flax1 or oatcake1 ,no4 #d4 ,= frame embroid]y1 or v f9e h&work1 ! high] numb]s1 f #g to #aj4 ,x is a mi/ake to use too f9e a ne$le4 ,! ?read ( crewel or silk %\ld always be able to pass loosely into ! eye1 s z n to require any pull+ to c>ry x ?r\gh ! mat]ial4 99 99 99 99 99 ,scissors %\ld be f9ely po9t$1 & v %>p4 99 99 99 99 99 ,?imbles :i* h be5 well worn1 & are !re=e smoo?1 are be/4 ,"s work]s pref] ivory or vulcanite4 ,two ?imbles %\ld be us$ = framework4 99 99 99 99 99 ,prick]s are necess>y = pi]c+ holes 9 gold embroid]y1 & also = arrang+ ! lie ( ! ?read 9 "s =ms ( c\*+4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,mat]ials4 ,,crewels1 ,,& ,,h[ ,,to ,,use ,,!m4 ,crewel %\ld be cut into %ort ?reads1 nev] m ?an half ! l5g? ( ! ske94 ,if a long ne$leful is us$1 x is n only apt to pull ! "w1 b is v wa/eful1 z ! end ( x is liable to become fray$ or knott$ be=e x is ne>ly work$ up4 ,if x is necess>y to use x d\ble 7& = co>se "w1 su* z scre5 panels on sailclo?1 or = embroid]+ on ,utre*t velvet1 x is g5]ally bett] d\bl$71 c>e %\ld be tak5 nev] to pass x ?r\gh ! eye ( ! ne$le1 knott+ ! two ends2 b two sep>ate ?reads ( ! l5g? requir$ %\ld be pass$ toge!r ?r\gh ! ne$le4 ,crewel %\ld n be manufactur$ ) a twi/1 z x makes ! embroid]y appe> h>d & rigid2 & ! %ades ( col\r d n bl5d into ea* o!r s h>moni\sly z :5 !y are untwi/$4 ,9 crewels ( ! be/ quality ! col\rs are p]fectly fa/1 & w be> be+ repeat$ly wa%$1 provid$ no soda or wa%+-p[d] is us$4 ,directions = clean+ crewel "w are giv5 lat]2 b x %\ld n be s5t to an ord9>y laundress1 :o w mo/ c]ta9ly ru9 ! col\rs4 ,crewel is suitable = embroid]y on all k9ds ( l95--on pla9 or diagonal clo?1 s]ge1 flannel1 c4 ,x is also v effective :5 us$ 9 conjunction ) embroid]y silk1 or filoselle1 ei!r 9 conv5tional designs1 or :]e fl[]s are introduc$4 ,! leaves may be work$ 9 crewels1 & ! fl[]s 9 silk1 or ! effect ( ! crewels increas$ by m]ely t\*+ up ! high lights ) silk4 99 99 99 99 99 ,tape/ry ,wool is m ?an twice ! ?ickness ( crewel1 & is us$ = scre5 panels1 or l>ge curta9 bord]s1 :]e ! "w is co>se1 & a good deal ( gr\nd has to be cov]$4 ,x is also us$ = ba? blankets & c>riage & s(a rugs4 ,tape/ry wool is n yet made 9 all %ades4 ,f9e crewels are us$ = delicately work+ small figures1 d'oyleys1 c42 b !re is also a difficulty ab\t obta9+ ^! 9 all %ades1 z !re is n mu* dem& = !m at pres5t4 99 99 99 99 99 ,arras5e is a new mat]ial4 ,x is a species ( wor/$ *5ille1 b is n twi/$ r\nd f9e wire or silk1 l ord9>y *5ille2 ?\gh x is wov5 fir/ into a fabric1 & !n cut 9 ! same mann]4 ,x s]ves to produce broad effects = scre5 panels1 or bord]s1 & has a v s(t1 ri* appe>ance :5 c>efully us$4 ,x is made also 9 silk2 b ?is is inf]ior to wor/$ arras5e1 or ! old-fa%ion$ *5ille4 ,decoration ,,silks4 ,embroid]y1 or ,bobb9 ,silk1 :i* has n[ almo/ sup]s$$ floss1 is us$ = work+ on sat9 & silk1 or = any f9e "w4 ,x is made 9 /r&s1 ea* ( :i* has a slight twi/ 9 x to prev5t its fray+ z floss does4 ,z ?is silk is requir$ 9 all v>ieties ( ?ickness1 x is manufactur$ 9 :at is te*nically call$ rope1 t is1 ) ab\t twelve /r&s 9 ea* ?read4 ,:5 n rope silk1 x is 9 s+le /r&s1 & is !n call$ f9e silk4 ,z x is almo/ always necess>y to use sev]al /r&s1 & ^! 9 v>y+ numb]1 accord+ to ! embroid]y 9 h&1 ! rope silk has to be divid$1 or ! f9e d\bl$ or trebl$1 z ! case may be4 ,if rope silk is be+ us$1 ! l5g? requir$ = a ne$leful mu/ be cut & pass$ c>efully betwe5 f+] & ?umb once or twice1 t x may n be twi/$4 ,x %\ld !n be c>efully sep>at$ into ! numb] ( /r&s mo/ suitable = ! embroid]y 9 h&2 = ord9>y "w ?ree is ab\t ! be/ numb]4 ,^! mu/ be ?read$ toge!r ?r\gh ! ne$le1 c>e be+ tak5 n to tangle ! piece ( rope f :i* !y h be5 deta*$4 ,!re ne$ be no wa/e if ?is op]ation is c>efully done1 z good silk w always divide into /r&s )\t fray+4 ,9 us+ f9e silk1 "o l5g? mu/ be cut fir/1 !n o!r /r&s laid on x1--z _m z are ne$$ to =m ! ?ickness requir$4 ,!y %\ld be c>efully laid 9 ! same direction z !y leave ! reel or c>d4 ,if plac$ c>elessly backw>ds & =w>ds1 !y are sure to fray1 & w n "w ev5ly toge!r4 ,) silk /ill m ?an ) crewel1 x is necess>y to ?read all ! /r&s ?r\gh ! ne$le toge!r1 nev] to d\ble "o back1 & nev] to make a knot4 ,x is int5d$ 9 future to d away ) ?is di/9ction betwe5 rope & f9e silk1 & to h x all manufactur$ ( "o uni=m ?ickness1 :i* w consi/ ( eight /r&s ( ! same quality z ! f9e silk at pres5t 9 use4 ,z x w1 h[ev]1 /ill be necess>y to divide ! ?read1 & ev5 p]haps occasionally to d\ble x1 ! directions giv5 above w be useful4 99 99 99 99 99 ,purse ,silk is us$ sometimes = diap]+1 & 9 r>e cases 9 ord9>y embroid]y1 :]e a rais$ effect is requir$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,raw or spun silk is a s(t untwi/$ cream-col\r$ silk1 us$ = daisies & o!r simple :ite fl[]s1 or 9 outl9+4 ,x is mu* *eap] ?an embroid]y silk or filoselle4 99 99 99 99 99 ,vegetable ,silk 7s-call$7 is n us$ or sold by ! ,royal ,s*ool4 99 99 99 99 99 ,filoselle1 :5 ( good quality1 is n1 z "s p suppose1 a mixture ( silk & cotton4 ,x is pure silk1 b ( an inf]ior quality2 & !re=e *eap]4 ,x answ]s _m ( ! purposes ( bobb9 silk1 b is n suitable = f9e embroid]y on silk or sat9 fabrics4 ,x %\ld be us$ also 9 /r&s1 & ! same rem>ks hold good ) reg>d to its n be+ d\bl$1 b cut 9 equal l5g?s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,tussore4--,int]e/+ exp]im5ts h rec5tly be5 made ) ! ,tussore1 or wild silk ( ,india1 :i* bids fair to create a revolution 9 embroid]y4 ,n only c x be produc$ = less ?an half ! price ( ! cultivat$ silk ( ,italy1 ,*9a1 or ,japan1 b x also takes ! mo/ delicate dyes ) a s(tness t gives a peculi>ly *>m+ effect4 ,x c sc>cely be said to be 9 ! m>ket z yet1 b 9 all probability be=e ?is "w is ?r\gh ! press x w h become an important elem5t 9 decorative ne$lework4 ,x is mu* less glossy ?an cultivat$ silk4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,gold ,,?read1 c4 ,japanese gold ?read1 :i* has ! advantage ( nev] t>ni%+1 is n[ extremely difficult to obta94 ,be+ made ( gilt pap] twi/$ r\nd cotton ?read1 x _c be drawn ?r\gh ! mat]ial by ! ne$le2 b mu/ 9 all cases be laid on1 & /it*$ d[n ) a f9e yell[ silk1 kn[n z ,maltese1 or ,horse-tail4 99 99 99 99 99 ,*9ese gold is manufactur$ 9 ! same mann] z ! ,japanese2 b be+ ( a mu* r$d] col\r is n s satisfactory 9 embroid]y unless a w>m %ade is desirable = a p>ticul> "w4 99 99 99 99 99 ,gold & silv] pass+1 a v f9e k9d ( ?read1 c ei!r be us$ = work+ ?r\gh ! mat]ial1 or c be laid on l ! ,japanese gold4 ,!y are suitable = rais$ gold or silv] embroid]y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,bullion1 or ,purl1 is gold or silv] wire made 9 a s]ies ( cont9u\s r+s1 l a corkscrew4 ,x is us$ 9 ecclesia/ical "w1 = embroid]+ (ficial & milit>y uni=ms1 & = h]aldic designs4 ,x %\ld be cut into ! requir$ l5g?s--?read$ on ! ne$le & fa/5$ d[n z 9 bead-"w4 ,purl is sometimes manufactur$ ) a col\r$ silk twi/$ r\nd ! metal ?\gh n conceal+ x1 & giv+ ri* t9ts to ! "w4 99 99 99 99 99 ,spangles 7 anci5tly mu* us$ 9 embroid]y1 & 7 sometimes ( pure gold4 ,!y are b little us$ n[4 99 99 99 99 99 ,plate consi/s ( n>r[ plates ( gold or silv] /it*$ on to ! embroid]y by ?reads ( silk1 :i* pass ov] !m4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! ,fr5* & ,engli% gold ?read is made ( ?9 plates ( metal cut into /rips1 & w\nd r\nd /r&s ( cotton 9 ! same mann] z ! ,japanese gold4 ,if ! metal is real1 ! co/ is ( c\rse great4 ,x is sold by weight1 gold be+ ab\t #bjs4 p] oz41 & silv]1 #ajs4 p] oz4 ,9 addition to its sup]iority 9 we>1 x has ?is advantage1 t old gold or silv] ?read is always ( intr9sic value1 & may be sold at ! curr5t price ( ! metal :atev] /ate x may be 94 ,_m v>ieties ( gilt ?read are manufactur$ 9 ,france & ,engl&1 :i* may be us$ :5 ! great exp5se ( real gold is object$ to4 ,b al?\gh x looks equally well at fir/1 x soon becomes t>ni%$1 & spoils ! effect ( ! embroid]y4 ,gold & silv] ?reads are difficult to "w ) 9 ,engl&1 & especially 9 ,london1 z damp & coal-smoke t>ni% !m almo/ be=e ! "w is out ( ! frame4 ,mrs4 ,dolby recomm5ds cloves be+ plac$ 9 ! pap]s 9 :i* !y are kept4 ,decoration ,,recipes ,,= ,,pres]v+ ,,gold4 ,we give "h two recipes1 :i* may be f\nd s]viceable4 ,!y are f diff]5t s\rces2 ! fir/ is a v old "o4 ,!y may pres]ve gold = a c]ta9 "t4 #a4 ,is+lass dissolv$ 9 spirits ( w9e & bru%$ ov] ! ?read or braid1 :i* %\ld be hung ov] some?+ to dry1 & n t\*$ ) ! h&4 #b4 ,spirits ( w9e & ma/ic v>ni% mix$ v ?9 & put on 9 ! same way ) a bru%4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,textile ,,fabrics ,,us$ ,,z ,,gr\nds ,,= ,,embroid]y4 ,,l95s4 ,!re are _m v>ieties ( unglaz$1 half-blea*$ l95s1 f t ?irty-six & =ty in*es wide1 us$ = *air-back cov]s1 to t n9ety in*es wide1 us$ = l>ge table-cov]s1 curta9s1 c4 ,!re are also endless v>ieties ( fancy l95s1 bo? ( h& & p[]-loom weav+1 = summ] dresses1 = b$ furniture1 *air-back cov]s1 table-clo?s1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,flax is ! unblea*$ br[n l951 (t5 us$ = *air-back cov]s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,twill is a ?ick l95 suitable = cov]+s = furniture4 99 99 99 99 99 ,kirriemuir ,twill is a f9e twill$ l95 made at ,kirriemuir1 & is good = t5nis aprons1 dresses1 curta9s1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,sailclo? is a /\t l951 ( yell[ col\r1 & is only suitable = scre5 panels4 99 99 99 99 99 ,oatcake ,l951 s call$ f its resemblance to ,scot* oatcake1 has be5 popul> = scre5 panels or wa%/& backs4 ,x is v co>se & r\gh4 99 99 99 99 99 ,oatmeal ,l95 is f9] & ( a grey] tone4 ,x is also us$ = scre5s1 & = small] articles4 99 99 99 99 99 ,smock ,l95 is a /rong ev5 gre5 clo?4 ,x makes an excell5t gr\nd = work+ scre5s1 & is also us$ = t5nis aprons4 99 99 99 99 99 ,cra%4--,prop]ly speak+1 ! "n cra% is only appli$ to ! co>se ,russian home-spun l951 :i* has be5 su* a fav\rite f ! beauty ( its tone ( col\r4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 errone\sly appli$ to all l95s us$ = embroid]y1 :e!r wov5 by h&-loom or ma*9]y2 & ?is confusion ( names frequ5tly leads to mi/akes4 ,cra% is almo/ always v co>se1 is nev] m ?an eighte5 in*es wide1 & _c be mi/ak5 = a ma*9e-made fabric4 ,x is wov5 by ! ,russian peasants 9 _! own homes1 9 l5g?s v>y+ f five to t5 y>ds1 &1 !re=e1 ?\gh s5t ov] 9 l>ge bales1 x is v difficult to f9d two pieces among a hundr$ t 9 any way mat* ea* o!r4 99 99 99 99 99 ,bolton1 or ,workh\se ,%eet+1 is a co>se twill$ cotton fabric1 sev5ty-two in*es wide1 ( a beautiful s(t creamy col\r1 :i* improves mu* 9 wa%+4 ,x is inexp5sive1 & an excell5t gr\nd = embroid]y1 ei!r = curta9s1 c\nt]panes1 *air cov]+s1 or = ladies' dresses1 or t5nis aprons4 ,x resembles ! twill$ cotton on :i* s mu* ( ! old crewel embroid]y 0 work$ 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & is "o ( ! mo/ satisfactory mat]ials :5 ( really good quality4 99 99 99 99 99 ,all descriptions ( l951 except ! oatcake & sailclo?1 c be embroid]$ 9 ! h&4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,,sat9s ,,& ,,silks4 ,sat9s & ,silks c only be embroid]$ 9 a frame4 ,furniture sat9s ( /\t make1 ) cotton backs1 may be us$ )\t back+2 b ord9>y dress sat9s require to h a ?9 cotton or l95 back+ to be> ! /ra9s ( ! "w & fram+4 ,no?+ is m beautiful ?an a ri* :ite sat9 = a dress embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks4 ,= fans1 a v f9e1 closely wov5 sat9 is necess>y1 z x w n fold ev5ly unless ! sat9 is ?92 & yet x mu/ be ri* en\gh to su/a9 ! f9e embroid]y1 )\t pull+1 or look+ poor4 ,a special k9d ( sat9 is made = ! manufacture ( fans1 & none o!r is available4 99 99 99 99 99 ,silk ,%eet+ ( good quality1 ,sat9 de ,*9e & o!r silk-fac$ mat]ials ( ! same class1 may ei!r be embroid]$ 9 ! h&1 or fram$2 b = l>ge pieces ( "w a frame is ess5tial4 ,^! mat]ials are suitable = curta9s1 c\nt]panes1 piano cov]+s1 or panels1 & inde$ = almo/ any purpose4 ,! f9] qualities are v beautiful = dresses1 z !y take ri* & graceful folds1 & c>ry embroid]y well4 99 99 99 99 99 ,tussore & ,corah ,silks are *>m+ = summ] dresses1 light *air-back cov]s1 or embroid]$ w9d[ bl9ds4 ,!y w only be> light embroid]+ 9 silk or filoselle4 ,)9 ! la/ ye> successful exp]im5ts h be5 made 9 dye+ ^! ,indian silks 9 ,engl&4 ,! exact %ades :i* we admire s mu* 9 ! old ,ori5tal embroid]ies h be5 reproduc$1 ) ! additional advantage ( be+ p]fectly fa/ 9 col\r4 ,no?+ c be m *>m+ z l9+ = table-cov]s1 scre5s1 curta9s1 c42 & !y are r less exp5sive ?an o!r l9+ silks4 ,! fabrics kn[n z ,pla9 ,tape/ries are a mixture ( silk & cotton1 manufactur$ 9 imitation ( ! h&work$ backgr\nds s frequ5t 9 anci5t embroid]ies--especially ,v5etian4 ,almo/ all ! v>ieties ( ,opus ,pulv9>ium1 or cu%ion /it*1 h be5 reproduc$ 9 ^! wov5 fabrics4 99 99 99 99 99 ,brocat9e is a silk-fac$ mat]ial1 wov5 to imitate c\*$ embroid]y4 ,! silk is ?r[n to ! surface & is ti$ ) cotton ?reads f ! back4 ,z gr\nd = embroid]y x has an excell5t effect4 ,decoration ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,,cottons ,,& ,,wooll5s4 ,velvete51 if ( good quality1 makes an excell5t gr\nd = scre5 panels1 *air-cov]s1 portires1 curta9s1 bord]s1 c4 ,x c be work$ 9 ! h& if ! embroid]y be n too heavy or l>ge 9 /yle4 99 99 99 99 99 ,utre*t ,velvet is only suitable = co>se crewel or tape/ry wool embroid]y4 ,x is fit = curta9 dados or wide bord]+s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,velvet ,clo? is a ri* pla9 clo?1 f9i%$ )\t any gloss4 ,x is a good gr\nd = embroid]y1 ei!r = curta9s or alt>-clo?s4 ,x is two y>ds wide4 99 99 99 99 99 ,felt is sometimes us$ = ! same purposes1 b does n we> ne>ly s well1 & is difficult to "w4 99 99 99 99 99 ,diagonal ,clo? c be work$ ei!r 9 ! h& or frame1 al?\gh x is always mu* bett] 9 ! latt]4 ,x is us$ = table-cov]s1 curta9s1 *air-seats1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,s]ge is usually made ?irty-six in*es wide4 ,x has long be5 9 fav\r = curta9s1 small table-cov]s1 dresses1 c4 ,x c n[ be obta9$ at ! s*ool fifty-f\r in*es wide1 9 _m %ades4 99 99 99 99 99 ,s(t or ,sup] ,s]ge1 also fifty-f\r in*es wide1 is an excell5t mat]ial1 mu* sup]ior 9 appe>ance to diagonal clo?1 or to ! ord9>y r\gh s]ge4 ,x takes embroid]y well4 99 99 99 99 99 ,cricket+ flannel is us$ = cov]lets = cots1 *ildr5's dresses1 & _m o!r purposes4 ,x is ( a beautiful creamy col\r1 & is a good gr\nd = f9e crewel or silk embroid]y4 ,x ne$ n be work$ 9 a frame4 99 99 99 99 99 ,g5oa or ,lyons ,velvet makes a beautiful gr\nd = embroid]y2 b x c only be work$ 9 a frame1 & requires to be back$ ) a ?9 cotton or l95 l9+1 if x is to su/a9 any mass ( embroid]y4 ,= small articles1 su* z sa*ets or casket-cov]s1 :5 ! "w is f9e & small1 ! back+ is n necess>y4 ,scre5 panels ( velvet1 work$ :olly 9 crewels1 or ) crewel bright5$ ) silk1 are v effective4 ,?ree-pil$ velvet is ! be/ = work+ ^u1 b is s exp5sive t x is seldom ask$ =4 99 99 99 99 99 ,silk ,velvet ,plu% 7a new mat]ial7 c only be us$ 9 frame "w1 & mu/ be back$4 ,x is useful 9 appliqu f ! _m beautiful tones ( col\r x takes4 ,z a gr\nd = silk or gold embroid]y x is also v good4 ,decoration ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,,gold ,,& ,,silv] ,,clo?4 ,clo? ( ,gold or ,silv] is made ( ?reads ( silk wov5 ) metal1 :i* is ?r[n to ! surface4 ,9 its be/ =m x is extremely exp5sive1 v>y+ f #d to #f p] y>d1 accord+ to ! weight ( gold introduc$4 ,clo? ( silv] is g5]ally #c ! y>d4 99 99 99 99 99 ,inf]ior k9ds ( ^! clo?s are made 9 :i* silk l>gely pr$om9ates1 & %[s pla9ly on ! surface4 ,!y are frequ5tly wov5 9 patt]ns1 su* z diap] or diagonal l9es1 ) a tie ( r$ silk1 9 imitation ( ! diap] patt]ns ( c\*$ embroid]y4 ,!y are *iefly us$ 9 ecclesia/ical or h]aldic embroid]y2 _! great exp5se prev5t+ _! g5]al use4 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,h& ,,embroid]y ,,z ,,taught ,,at ,,! ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework4 ,to avoid pull+ or puck]+ ! "w1 c>e %\ld be tak5--fir/ly1 t ! ne$le is n too small1 s z to require any =ce 9 draw+ x ?r\gh ! mat]ial2 secondly1 ! mat]ial mu/ be held 9 a convex position ov] ! f+]s1 s t ! crewel or silk 9 ! ne$le %all be loos] ?an ! gr\nd2 & ?irdly1 n to use too long ne$lefuls4 ,^! rules apply g5]ally to all h&work$ embroid]ies4 ,,/it*es4 ,/em ,/it*4--,! fir/ /it* :i* is taught to a beg9n] is /em /it* 7wrongly call$ also1 crewel /it*1 z x has no claim to be+ us$ exclusively 9 crewel embroid]y74 ,x is mo/ useful 9 "w done 9 ! h&1 & especially 9 outl9es ( fl[]s1 un%ad$ leaves1 & arabesque1 & all conv5tional designs4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #a4--,,/em ,,/it*4 ,x may be be/ describ$ z a long /it* =w>d on ! surface1 & a %ort] "o backw>d on ! "u side ( ! fabric1 ! /it*es foll[+ ea* o!r almo/ 9 l9e f left to "r4 ,! effect on ! wrong side is exactly t ( an irregul> back-/it*+ us$ by dressmak]s1 z di/+ui%$ f regul> /it*+4 ,a leaf work$ 9 outl9e %\ld be begun at ! l[] or /alk end1 & work$ r\nd ! "r side to ! top1 tak+ c>e t ! ne$le is to ! left ( ! ?read z x is drawn out4 ,:5 ! po9t ( ! leaf is rea*$1 x is be/ to rev]se ! op]ation 9 work+ d[n ! left side t[>ds ! /alk aga91 s z to keep ! ne$le to ! "r ( ! ?read in/ead ( to ! left1 z 9 go+ up4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #b4 ,! reason ( ?is w be easily und]/ood3 we w suppose ! leaf to h a slightly s]rat$ edge 7& !re is no leaf 9 nature ) an absolutely smoo? "o74 ,x w be f\nd t 9 ord] to give ?is ragg$ appe>ance1 x is necess>y to h ! po9ts at :i* ! ins]tions ( ! ne$le occur on ! outside ( ! leaf3 :]eas if ! /em /it* 7 cont9u$ d[n ! left side1 exactly 9 ! same mann] z 9 asc5d+ ! "r1 we %\ld h ! ugly anomaly ( a leaf outl9$ ?us3-- ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #c4 ,if ! leaf is to be work$ solidly1 ano!r r[ ( /em /it*+ mu/ be tak5 up ! c5tre ( x 7unless x be a v n>r[ leaf71 to ! top4 ,! two halves ( ! leaf mu/ !n be fill$ 91 sep>ately1 ) close1 ev5 r[s ( /em /it*1 work$ 9 ! ord9>y way1 ) ! ne$le to ! left ( ! ?read4 ,?is w prev5t ! ugly ridge :i* rema9s 9 ! c5tre1 if x is work$ r\nd & r\nd ! inside ( ! outl9e4 ,/em /it* mu/ be v>i$ accord+ to ! "w 9 h&4 ,if a p]fectly ev5 l9e is requir$1 c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! direction ( ! ne$le :5 ins]t$ is 9 a /raight l9e ) ! prec$+ /it*4 ,if a slight s]rature is requir$1 ea* /it* mu/ be slop$ a little by ins]t+ ! ne$le at a slight angle1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4 ,! l5g? ( ! surface /it*es mu/ v>y to suit ! /yle ( ea* piece ( embroid]y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,split ,/it* is work$ l ord9>y /em1 except t ! ne$le is always br\ght up ?r\gh ! crewel or silk1 :i* x splits1 9 pass+4 ,! effect is to produce a m ev5 l9e ?an is possible ) ! mo/ c>eful /em /it*4 ,x is us$ = delicate outl9es4 ,split /it* is r>ely us$ 9 h& embroid]y1 be+ m suitable = frame "w3 b has be5 describ$ "h z be+ a =m ( /em /it*4 ,! effect is some:at l a confus$ *a9 /it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,sat9 ,/it*--,fr5* ,plumetis--is "o ( ^? *iefly us$ 9 :ite embroid]y1 & consi/s 9 tak+ ! ne$le ea* "t back aga9 almo/ to ! spot f :i* x />t$1 s t ! same am\nt ( crewel or silk rema9s on ! back ( ! "w z on ! front4 ,?is produces a surface z smoo? z sat93 h5ce its "n4 ,x is *iefly us$ 9 work+ ! petals ( small fl[]s1 su* z ,=get-me-nots1 & 9 arabesque designs :]e a rais$ effect is want$ 9 small masses4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #d4--,,sat9 ,,/it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,blanket ,/it* is us$ = work+ ! edges ( table-cov]s1 mantel valances1 blankets1 c41 or = edg+ any o!r mat]ial4 ,x is simply a button-hole /it*1 & may be v>i$ 9 _m ways by slop+ ! /it*es alt]nately to "r & left2 by work+ two or ?ree toge!r1 & leav+ a space betwe5 !m & ! next set2 or by work+ a second r[ r\nd ! edge ( ! clo? ov] ! fir/ ) a diff]5t %ade ( wool4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #e4--;,,blanket ,,/it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,knott$ ,/it*1 or ,fr5* ,knot1 is us$ = ! c5tres ( su* fl[]s z ! daisy or wild rose1 & sometimes = ! an!rs ( o!rs4 ,! ne$le is br\ght up at ! exact spot :]e ! knot is to be3 ! ?read is held 9 ! left h&1 & twi/$ once or twice r\nd ! ne$le1 ! po9t ( :i* is !n pass$ ?r\gh ! fabric close to ! spot :]e x came up3 ! "r h& draws x und]nea?1 :ile ! ?umb ( ! left keeps ! ?read 9 its place until ! knot is secure4 ,! knots are increas$ 9 size accord+ to ! numb] ( twi/s r\nd ! ne$le4 ,:5 prop]ly made1 !y %\ld look l beads1 & lie 9 p]fectly ev5 & regul> r[s4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #f4--,,knott$ ,,/it*1 or ,,fr5* ,,knot4 ,?is /it* is v anci5t1 & does n seem conf9$ to any c\ntry1 & ! ,*9ese execute l>ge & elaborate pieces ( embroid]y 9 x1 introduc+ beautiful %ad+4 ,a curi\s specim5 ( v f9e knott+ /it* 0 exhibit$ at ! ,royal ,s*ool 9 #ahgh1 probably ( ,fr5* workman%ip4 ,x 0 a portrait ( ,/4 ,ignatius ,loyola1 n m ?an six in*es 9 l5g?1 & 0 entirely execut$ 9 knots ( su* f95ess1 t )\t a magnify+ glass x 0 impossible to discov] ! /it*es4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is a t\r de =ce1 & n quot$ z wor?y ( imitation4 ,!re is "o v>iety ( ?is /it*1 9 :i* ! ?read is twi/$ a great _m times r\nd ! ne$le1 s z to =m a sort ( curl in/ead ( a s+le knot4 ,?is is f\nd 9 _m anci5t embroid]ies1 :]e x is us$ = ! hair ( sa9ts & angels 9 ecclesia/ical "w4 ,knott$ /it* 0 also employ$ l>gely 9 all its =ms 9 ! curi\s & +5i\s b ugly /yle 9 vogue dur+ ! reign ( ,james ,i41 :5 ! l&scapes 7 frequ5tly work$ 9 cross1 or fea!r /it*1 :ile ! figures 7 rais$ ov] /uff+1 & dress$1 z x 71 9 robes made entirely 9 po9t lace1 or button-hole /it*es1 execut$ 9 silk4 ,! foliage ( ! trees & %rubs :i* we g5]ally f9d 9 ^! embroid]$ pictures1 z well z ! hair 9 ! figures1 7 work$ 9 knott$ /it*es ( v>y+ sizes1 :ile ! faces 7 9 t5t /it* or pa9t$ on :ite silk1 & fa/5$ on to ! canvas or l95 gr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #g4--;,,bullion ,,knot4 ,ano!r v>iety ( knott+1 :i* is /ill occasionally us$1 resembles bullion1 be+ made into a long roll4 ,a /it* ( ! l5g? ( ! int5d$ roll is tak5 9 ! mat]ial1 ! po9t ( ! ne$le be+ br\ght to ! surface aga9 9 ! same spot f :i* ! ?read orig9ally />t$2 ! ?read is !n twi/$ eight or t5 times r\nd ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 :i* is drawn out c>efully ?r\gh ! tunnel =m$ by ! twi/s1 ?is be+ kept 9 its place by ! left ?umb4 ,! po9t ( ! ne$le is !n ins]t$ once m 9 ! same place z x fir/ ent]$ ! mat]ial1 ! long knot or roll be+ drawn s z to lie ev5ly betwe5 ! po9ts ( ins]tion & re-appe>ance1 ?us treat+ ! twi/$ ?read z if x 7 bullion or purl4 99 99 99 99 99 ,*a9 ,/it* is b little us$ 9 embroid]y n[1 al?\gh x may sometimes be suitable = l9es4 ,x is made by tak+ a /it* f "r to left1 & be=e ! ne$le is drawn out ! ?read is br\ght r\nd t[>ds ! work]1 & "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #h4--;,,*a9 ,,/it*4 ,! next /it* is tak5 f ! po9t ( ! loop ?us =m$ =w>ds1 & ! ?read aga9 kept "u ! po9t1 s t a regul> *a9 is =m$ on ! surface ( ! mat]ial4 ,?is *a9 /it* 0 mu* employ$ = gr\nd patt]ns 9 ! beautiful gold-col\r$ "w on l95 = dress or furniture :i* prevail$ f ! "t ( ,james ,i4 to ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,x gave ! appe>ance ( quilt+ :5 work$ on l95 9 geometrical designs1 or 9 f9e & (t5-repeat$ arabesques4 ,examples ( x come to u f ,g]many & ,spa91 9 :i* ! design is embroid]$ 9 sat9 /it*1 or entirely fill$ 9 ) solid *a9 /it*1 9 a uni=m gold col\r4 ,*a9 /it* resembles ,tamb\r "w1 :i* we %all describe among/ framework /it*es1 ?\gh x is n at pres5t practis$ at ?is ,s*ool4 99 99 99 99 99 ,twi/$ ,*a91 or ,rope /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #i4--,,twi/$ ,,*a94 ,effective = outl9es on co>se mat]ials1 su* z blankets1 c>riage rugs1 foot/ools1 c4 ,x is l an ord9>y *a91 except t 9 place ( />t+ ! second /it* f ! c5tre ( ! loop1 ! ne$le is tak5 back to half ! di/ance beh9d x1 & ! loop is pu%$ to "o side to all[ ! ne$le to ent] 9 a /raight l9e ) ! =m] /it*4 ,x is n ( mu* use1 except :5 work$ ) d\ble crewel or ) tape/ry wool2 & %\ld !n h ! appe>ance ( a twi/$ rope4 99 99 99 99 99 ,fea!r ,/it*4--,vulg>ly call$ long & %ort /it*1 long /it* & sometimes embroid]y /it*4 ,we propose to re/ore to x its anci5t title ( fea!r /it*--,opus ,plum>ium1 s call$ f its suppos$ resemblance to ! plumage ( a bird4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #aj4--;,,fea!r ,,/it*4 ,we %all n[ describe x z us$ = h&work2 & lat] 7at page #cg71 z work$ 9 a frame4 ,^! two modes diff] v little 9 appe>ance1 z ! pr9ciple is ! same1 namely1 t ! /it*es are ( v>y+ l5g?1 & are work$ into & betwe5 ea* o!r1 adapt+ !mselves to ! =m ( ! design1 b 9 h&work ! ne$le is kept on ! surface ( ! mat]ial4 ,fea!r ,/it* is g5]ally us$ = embroid]+ fl[]s1 :e!r natural or conv5tional4 ,9 work+ ! petal ( a fl[] 7su* z we h *os5 = our illu/ration71 ! out] "p is fir/ work$ 9 ) /it*es :i* =m a close1 ev5 edge on ! outl9e1 b a brok5 "o t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! petal1 be+ alt]nately long & %ort4 ,^! edg+ /it*es resemble sat9 /it* 9 s f> t ! same am\nt ( crewel or silk appe>s on ! "u1 z on ! upp] side ( ! "w3 !y mu/ slope t[>ds ! n>r[ "p ( ! petal4 ,! next /it*es are some:at l an irregul> /em1 inasmu* z !y are long] on ! surface ?an on ! "u side1 & are work$ 9 betwe5 ! unev5 l5g?s ( ! edg+ /it*es s z to bl5d ) !m4 ,! petal is !n fill$ up by o!r /it*es1 :i* />t f ! c5tre1 & are c>ri$ betwe5 ^? already work$4 ,:5 ! petal is f9i%$1 ! r[s ( /it*es %\ld be s m]g$ 9 ea* o!r t !y _c be di/+ui%$1 & :5 %ad+ is us$1 ! col\rs %\ld appe> to melt into ea* o!r4 ,9 s]rat$ leaves1 su* z haw?orn or virg9ia creep]1 ! edg+ /it*es foll[ ! brok5 outl9e ( ! leaf in/ead ( =m+ an ev5 out] edge4 ,x is necess>y to ma/] ?or\ghly ?is mo/ important /it*1 b practice only c make ! work] p]fect4 ,! "w %\ld always be />t$ by runn+ ! ?read a little way 9 front ( ! embroid]y4 ,knots %\ld nev] be us$ except 9 r>e cases1 :5 x is impossible to avoid !m4 ,! ?read %\ld always be f9i%$ (f on ! surface ( ! "w1 nev] at ! back1 :]e !re %\ld be no ne$less wa/e ( mat]ial4 ,no untidy ends or knots %\ld ev] appe> !re2 9 fact1 ! wrong side %\ld be q z neat z ! "r4 ,x is a mi/ake to suppose t pa/+ w ev] d away ) ! evil effects ( c>eless "w1 or w /eady embroid]y :i* has be5 comm5c$ ) knots1 & f9i%$ ) loose ends at ! back4 ,! /it*es v>y con/antly accord+ to _! application1 & good embroid]]s diff] 9 _! mann] ( us+ !m3 "s pref]r+ to c>ry ! ?read back t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! petal1 on ! surface ( ! "w1 s z to avoid wa/e ( mat]ial2 o!rs mak+ _! /it*es z 9 sat9 /it*--! same on bo? sides1 b ^! details may be left to ! intellig5ce & ta/e ( ! work]1 :o %\ld nev] be afraid ( try+ exp]im5ts1 or work+ out new ideas4 ,nor %\ld %e ev] fe> to unpick h] "w2 = only by exp]im5t c %e succe$ 9 f9d+ ! be/ comb9ations1 &1 "o little piece ill done1 w be suffici5t to spoil h] :ole embroid]y1 z no t\*+-up c aft]w>ds improve x4 99 99 99 99 99 ,we h n[ nam$ ! pr9cipal /it*es us$ 9 h& embroid]y1 :e!r to be execut$ 9 crewel or silk4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 numb]less o!r /it*es us$ 9 crewel embroid]y3 su* z ord9>y /it*+1 l t us$ 9 pla9 ne$lework1 9 :i* _m designs 7 =m]ly trac$ on quilt$ backgr\nds--o!rs1 aga91 are _m ( !m lace /it*es1 or =ms ( h]r+bone1 & are us$ = fill+ 9 ! foliage ( l>ge conv5tional floriat$ designs1 su* z we are accu/om$ to see 9 ! ,engli% crewel "w ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 on a twill$ cotton mat]ial1 resembl+ our mod]n ,bolton %eet+4 ,x w\ld be impossible to describe or ev5 enum]ate !m all2 z v>ieties may be con/antly inv5t$ by an +5i\s work] to enri* h] design1 & 9 lace "w !re are already #ajj nam$ /it*es1 :i* occasionally are us$ 9 decorative embroid]y4 ,mo/ ( ^!1 if requir$1 c be %[n z taught at ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 & are illu/rat$ by sampl]s4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,frames ,,& ,,fram+4 ,be=e proce$+ to describe ! v>i\s /it*es us$ 9 frame embroid]y1 we w say a few words z to ! frame itself1 ! mann] ( /ret*+ ! mat]ial 9 x1 & ! be/ & lea/ fatigu+ me?od ( work+ at x4 ,! ess5tial p>ts ( an embroid]y frame are3 fir/1 ! b>s1 :i* h /\t webb+ nail$ along !m1 & mortice holes at ! ends2 second1 ! /ret*]s1 :i* are usually flat pieces ( wood1 furni%$ ) holes at ! ends to all[ ( _! be+ fa/5$ by metal pegs into ! mortice holes ( ! b>s :5 ! "w is /ret*$4 ,9 "s cases ! /ret*]s are fa/5$ into ! b>s by /rong iron screws1 :i* are held by nuts4 ,,fram+4 ,9 *oos+ a frame = a piece ( embroid]y we mu/ see t ! webb+ atta*$ to ! sides ( ! b> is long en\gh to take ! "w 9 "o direction4 ,beg9 by sew+ ! edge ( ! mat]ial closely ) /rong l95 ?read on to ?is webb+4 ,if ! "w is too long to be put into ! frame at "o "t 7z 9 ! case ( bord]s = curta9s1 table-cov]s1 c471 all b ! portion ab\t to be work$ %\ld be roll$ r\nd "o b> ( ! frame1 putt+ silv] pap] & a piece ( wadd+ betwe5 ! mat]ial & ! wood1 s z to prev5t its be+ m>k$4 ,! /ret*]s %\ld !n be put 9 & secur$ ) ! metal pegs4 ,a piece ( ! webb+ hav+ be5 previ\sly /it*$ on to ! sides ( ! mat]ial1 x %\ld n[ be brac$ ) tw9e by means ( a pack+ ne$le1 pass+ ! /r+ ov] ! /ret*]s betwe5 ea* /it* tak5 9 ! webb+1 &1 f9ally1 draw+ up ! brac+ until ! mat]ial is /ra9$ ev5ly & tightly 9 ! frame4 ,if ! fabric is "o :i* /ret*es easily1 ! brac+s %\ld n be drawn too tightly4 ,= small pieces ( "w a deal h&-frame1 mortic$ at ! corn]s1 w suffice1 & ?is may be re/$ on ! table be=e ! work]1 be+ held 9 its position by two heavy lead5 weights1 cov]$ ) lea!r or baize1 9 ord] to prev5t !m f slipp+4 ,x %\ld be rais$ (f ! table to a conv5i5t height1 ?us sav+ ! work] f /oop+ ov] h] frame1 :i* tires ! eyes1 & causes ! blood to fl[ to ! head4 ,!re is no d\bt t a well-made /&+-frame is a great conv5i5ce1 z its position ne$ n be di/urb$1 & x c be easily cov]$ up & put aside :5 n 9 use4 ,x requires1 h[ev]1 to be v well made1 & %\ld1 if possible1 be ( oak or mahogany1 or x w w>p & get out ( ord]4 ,x mu/ also be well weight$ to keep x /eady4 ,= a l>ge piece ( "w x is necess>y to h a long heavy frame ) wood5 tre/les1 on :i* to re/ x4 ,! tre/les %\ld be made s z to enable ! frame to be rais$ or l[]$ at w4 ,a new frame has rec5tly be5 inv5t$ & is sold by ! ,royal ,s*ool1 :i*1 be+ made ) h+es & small upright p9s1 holds ! ends ( ! mat]ial firmly1 s t x c be roll$ r\nd & r\nd ! b> ( ! frame )\t ! tr\ble ( sew+ x on to ! webb+4 ,:5 a frame is n 9 use1 c>e %\ld be tak5 t x does n become w>p$ f be+ kept 9 too dry or too hot a place1 z x is !n difficult to frame ! "w satisfactorily4 ,x w be f\nd useful to h a small basket1 l9$ ) holl& or silk1 fa/5$ to ! side ( ! frame1 to hold ! silks1 ?imbles1 scissors1 c41 ne$$ = ! "w4 ,two ?imbles %\ld be us$1 "o on ea* h&1 & ! be/ are old silv] or gold ones1 ) all ! r\ghness worn (f1 or ivory or vulcanite4 ,! work] ought to we> a l>ge apron ) a bib to save h] dress1 & a pair ( l95 sleeves to prev5t ! cuffs f fray+ or soil+ h] "w4 ,surgeon's b5t scissors are useful = frame embroid]y1 b !y are n necess>y1 z ord9>y %>p-po9t$ scissors w answ] e purpose4 ,:5 silk1 sat91 or velvet is n /rong en\gh to be> ! /ra9 ( fram+ & embroid]+1 x mu/ be back$ ) a f9e cotton or l95 l9+4 ,! back+ 9 ?is case is fir/ fram$1 z describ$ above1 & ! velvet or sat9 mu/ !n be laid on x1 & fir/ fa/5$ d[n ) p9s2 !n sewn d[n ) h]r+bone /it*1 tak+ c>e t x is kept p]fectly ev5 ) ! ?read ( ! back+1 & n all[$ to wr9kle or bli/]4 ,x is mo/ important t a work] %\ld le>n to use equally bo? h&s1 keep+ ! "r h& above ! frame till ! arm is tir$1 !n lett+ ! left take its place :ile ! "r goes bel[4 ,a cov] %\ld be made l>ge en\gh to envelop bo? ! upp] & "u portions ( ! "w1 & to be fa/5$ d[n to ! sides1 s z to protect x f du/ :5 x is n be+ us$1 & dur+ "w x %\ld be kept ov] ! portion ( ! embroid]y n actually 9 h&4 ,la/ly1 a good light %\ld be *os51 s z n to try ! eyes4 ,_m mat]ials c only be embroid]$ 9 a frame1 & mo/ "w is be/ s done4 ,a great] v>iety ( /it*es is possible1 & on ! /ret*$ flat surface ! work] c see ! :ole picture at once1 & judge ( ! effect ( ! col\rs & %ad+ z %e c>ries out ! design4 ,x is ! diff]5ce betwe5 draw+ on /ret*$ or crumpl$ pap]4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,frame ,,embroid]y4 ,fea!r ,/it*4--,9 framework1 z 9 h&work1 we re/ore ! anci5t "n ( ,fea!r "w or /it*--,opus ,plum>ium4 ,we h already said t x 0 s-call$ f its lik5ess to ! plumage ( a bird4 ,?is comes f ! ev5 lie ( ! /it*es1 :i* fit into & appe> to ov]lap ea* o!r1 pres5t+ ?us a m>k$ contra/ to ! granulat$ effect ( t5t /it*es1 & ! long ridges ( ! ,opus ,anglicum1 hav+ no h>d l9es z 9 /em /it*1 or flat surfaces z 9 sat9 /it*4 ,fea!r /it*1 :5 work$ 9 a frame1 is exactly ! same z t work$ 9 ! h&1 except t x is m ev5 & smoo?4 ,! ne$le is tak5 backw>ds & =w>ds ?r\gh ! mat]ial 9 /it*es ( v>y+ l5g?s2 ! next r[ always fitt+ into ! vacant spaces & project+ beyond !m1 s z to prep>e = ! foll[+ r[4 ,e possible gradation ( col\r c be effect$ 9 ?is way1 & x applies to e =m ( design--floral or arabesque4 ,natural fl[]s h mo/ly be5 work$ 9 ?is /it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a skilful embroid]] w be c>eful n to wa/e m silk ?an is absolutely necess>y on ! back ( ! "w1 :ile1 at ! same "t1 %e w n sacrifice ! arti/ic effect by be+ too sp>+ ( h] back /it*es4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,c\*+1 ,,or ,,laid ,,embroid]y4 ,?is "n is prop]ly appli$ to all =ms ( embroid]y 9 :i* ! ?reads ( crewel1 silk1 or gold are laid on ! surface1 & /it*$ on to x by ?reads com+ f ! back ( ! mat]ial4 ,"u ?is head may be class$ z v>ieties ! ord9>y laid backgr\nds1 diap] c\*+s1 brick /it*1 basket /it*1 & ! v>i\s =ms ( /uff$ c\*+s :i* are f\nd 9 anci5t embroid]ies4 ,c\*+ outl9es are usually ?ick /r&s ( d\ble crewel1 tape/ry wool1 filoselle1 cord1 or n>r[ ribbon laid d[n & /it*$ at regul> int]vals by ?reads cross+ ! c\*+ l9e at "r angles4 ,!y are us$ = co>se outl9e "w1 or = f9i%+ ! edges ( appliqu4 99 99 99 99 99 ,pla9 ,c\*+1 or ,laid ,embroid]y4--,! ?reads are fir/ laid ev5ly & /raight f side to side ( ! space to be fill$ 91 :e!r 9 ! direction ( w>p or wo( dep5ds on ! patt]n2 ! ne$le be+ pass$ ?r\gh to ! back1 & br\ght up aga9 n q close1 b at a suffici5t di/ance to all[ ( an int]m$iate /it* be+ tak5 backw>ds2 ?us ! ?reads w\ld be laid alt]nately fir/1 ?ird1 second1 f\r?1 & s on4 ,?is gives a bett] pur*ase at ea* end ?an if !y 7 laid consecutively 9 a /raight l9e4 ,if ! l9e slants mu*1 x is n necess>y to alt]nate ! r[s4 ,:5 ! lay] is complete1 ?reads ( metal1 or ( ! same or diff]5t col\r & texture1 are laid across at regul> int]vals1 & are fix$ d[n by /it*es f ! back4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #aa4--,,pla9 ,,c\*+4 ,! beauty ( ?is "w dep5ds ^u its regul>ity4 ,?is k9d ( embroid]y1 :i* we f9d among/ ! old ,spani%1 ,cretan1 & ,italian specim5s1 is v useful :]e broad1 flat effects )\t %ad+ are requir$2 b unless x is v closely /it*$ d[n1 x is n durable if !re is any risk ( its be+ expos$ to r\gh usage4 ,x is possible to obta9 v f9e effects ( col\r 9 ?is /yle ( "w1 z 0 se5 9 ! old ,v5etian curta9s transf]r$ & copi$ = ,l\isa1 ,lady ,a%burton4 ,^! 7 %[n at ! "t ( ! ,exhibition ( ,anci5t ,ne$lework at ! ,s*ool 9 #ahgh4 ,anci5t embroid]y c be beautifully re/or$ by gr\nd+ 9 laid "w1 in/ead ( transf]r+ x :]e ! gr\nd is fray$1 & ! "w is wor?y ( pres]vation4 ,x mu/ be /ret*$ on a new back+1 ! fray$ mat]ial c>efully cut away1 & ! new gr\nd c\*$ z we h describ$4 ,9 o!r v>ieties ( c\*+1 "u :i* come ! _m =ms ( diap]+1 ! ?reads are laid 9 ! same mann] z = ord9>y c\*+2 b 9 place ( lay+ c\*+ l9es across ^!1 ! ?reads ( ! fir/ lay] are simply /it*$ d[n f ! back1 frequ5tly ) ?reads ( ano!r col\r4 99 99 99 99 99 ,net-patt]n$ ,c\*+4--,! fa/5+ /it*es are plac$ diagonally in/ead ( at "r angles1 =m+ a network1 & are kept 9 place by a cross-/it* at ea* int]section4 ,?is /yle ( c\*+ 0 commonly us$ z a gr\nd 9 ecclesia/ical "w ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4 99 99 99 99 99 ,brick ,/it*4--,! ?reads are laid d[n two toge!r1 & are /it*$ across at regul> int]vals4 ,! next two ?reads are !n plac$ toge!r by ! side1 ! fa/5+ /it*es be+ tak5 at ! same di/ance f ea* o!r1 b s z to occur exactly betwe5 ! previ\s c\pl+s4 ,?us giv+ ! effect ( brickwork4 99 99 99 99 99 ,diap] ,c\*+s4--,by v>y+ ! position ( ! fa/5+ /it*es diff]5t patt]ns may be produc$1 su* z diagonal cross+s1 diamonds1 zigzags1 curves1 c4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ab4--,,?ree ,,illu/rations ,,( ,,diap] ,,c\*+s4 ,!y are prop]ly all gold /it*es2 b purse silk1 ?9 cord1 or ev5 untwi/$ silk may be us$4 ,a wond]ful example ( ! _m v>ieties ( diap]+ is to be se5 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ,no4 #fhi4 ,x is mod]n ,belgian "w1 execut$ = ! ,p>is ,exhibition ( #ahfg4 ,z a specim5 ( f9e & beautiful diap]+ 9 gold1 ?is c\ld sc>cely be surpass$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,basket ,/it* is "o ( ! ri*e/ & mo/ ornam5tal ( ^! anci5t modes ( c\*+4 ,r[s ( /uff+1 manufactur$ 9 ! =m ( s(t cotton cord1 are laid across ! patt]n & firmly secur$4 ,across ^! are plac$ gold ?reads1 two at a "t1 & ^! are /it*$ d[n ov] ea* two r[s ( /uff+4 ,! two gold ?reads are turn$ at ! edge ( ! patt]n1 & br\ght back close to ! la/1 & fa/5$ 9 ! same way4 ,?ree d\ble r[s ( gold may be /it*$ ov] ! same two r[s ( /uff+4 ,! next ?ree r[s mu/ be treat$ z brick /it*1 & fa/5$ exactly betwe5 ! previ\s /it*+s1 & s on1 until ! :ole space to be work$ is closely cov]$ ) :at appe>s to be a gold5 wick]-"w4 ,/rong silk mu/ be us$ = ! /it*+4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ac4--;,,basket ,,/it*4 ,! ,spani% ,s*ool ( ,embroid]y has always be5 fam$ = its excell5ce 9 ?is /yle1 & has nev] lo/ ! art4 ,! ,embroid]]s ( ! ,k+1 z !y are call$1 /ill turn out spl5did specim5s ( ?is heavy & elaborate "w1 :i* are us$ = ! gorge\s trapp+s ( ! horses ( ! nobility on gala days & /ate occasions4 ,a beautiful specim5 0 exhibit$ at ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 9 #ahgh1 by ! ,c\ntess ,br[nl[1 ( an alt>-hang+1 entirely work$ 9 basket /it*1 9 gold on :ite sat91 & a mod]n example is /ill to be se5 at ! ,s*ool 9 a l>ge c\nt]pane1 :i* 0 work$ = ! ,philadelphia ,exhibition f an anci5t "o also belong+ to ,lady ,br[nl[4 ,! ,spani% embroid]]s us$ ^! =ms ( c\*+ ov] /uff+ ) col\r$ silks z well z gold1 & produc$ wond]fully ri* effects4 ,"o quilt exhibit$ by ,mrs4 ,alfr$ ,morrison 9 #ahgh 0 a m>vel ( col\r+ & workman%ip4 ,basket /it* is mo/ly us$ n[ = *ur* embroid]y1 or = small articles ( luxury1 su* z ornam5tal pockets1 caskets1 c4 ,diap]+ is g5]ally employ$ 9 ! drap]y ( small figures1 & 9 ecclesia/ical "w4 99 99 99 99 99 ,_m fabrics are manufactur$ 9 imitation ( ! old] diap]$ backgr\nds1 & are l>gely us$ to replace !m4 ,among ^! are ! mat]ial kn[n z silk brocat9e1 & sev]al k9ds ( clo? ( gold m5tion$ 9 our li/ ( mat]ials4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,cu%ion ,,/it*es4 ,cu%ion ,/it*--! anci5t ,opus ,pulv9>ium ( ! ,middle ,ages1 likewise call$ ,cross ,/it*--may lay claim to be "o ( ! mo/ anci5t kn[n 9 embroid]y4 ,!re h be5 _m v>ieties1 b ! pr9ciple is ! same 9 all4 ,x is work$ on & ?r\gh canvas1 ( :i* ! ?reads1 z 9 tape/ry1 regulate ! /it*es4 ,aft] six c5turies ( popul>ity x f9ally di$ out )9 ! la/ few ye>s z ,b]l9 wool "w2 b w d\btless be reviv$ aga9 9 "s =m aft] a "t1 z be+ well fitt$ = cov]+ furniture on acc\nt ( its firmness & durability4 ,9 ,g]many & ,russia x is /ill mu* us$ = embroid]+ conv5tional designs on l952 & ! beautiful ,cretan & ,p]sian "w ( :i* s mu* has lately be5 9 ! m>ket1 is execut$ 9 ?is /yle4 99 99 99 99 99 ,t5t ,/it* may be plac$ fir/ "u ?is class1 9 :i* ! ?read com+ f b5ea? is c>ri$ ov] a s+le cross ( ! w>p & wo( ( ! canvas4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ad4--,,t5t ,,/it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,simple ,cross ,/it*4--,! wor/$ or silk is br\ght up aga9 to ! surface1 "o ?read to ! left ( ! spot :]e ! ne$le 0 ins]t$1 & is cross$ ov] ! fir/ or t5t /it*1 =m+ a regul> & ev5 cross on ! surface4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ae4--,,simple ,,cross ,,/it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,p]sian ,cross ,/it*4--,! peculi>ity ( ?is /it* is t 9 ! fir/ in/ance ! silk or wor/$ is c>ri$ across two ?reads ( ! canvas gr\nd1 & is br\ght up 9 ! int]m$iate space4 ,x is !n cross$ ov] ! latt] half ( ! orig9al /it*1 & a fre% />t is made4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #af4--,,p]sian ,,cross ,,/it*4 ,mu* ( ! beauty ( ,p]sian embroid]y is produc$ by ! irregul>ity ( ! cross+2 ! /it*es be+ tak5 9 masses1 9 any direction t seems mo/ suitable to ! design 9 h&1 in/ead ( be+ plac$ 9 regul> r[s1 ) ! /it*es all slop+ 9 "o direction1 z is ! case ) ! mod]n ,b]l9 "w1 ?is1 ) ! happy *oice ( col\rs = :i* ! ,p]sians are s ju/ly fam\s1 produces a s+ul> ri*ness ( effect4 ,alli$ to ^! canvas /it*es & hav+ _! orig9 9 !m1 are ! num]\s =ms ( gr\nd+s1 :i* are n[ work$ on co>se l95s1 or 9 fact on any fabric2 & h sometimes1 al?\gh incorrectly1 be5 call$ d>n+ /it*es1 probably f _! resemblance to ! patt]ns :i* are f\nd on sampl]s1 = d>n+ /ock+s1 old table l951 c4 c4 ,almo/ any patt]n c be produc$ 9 ?is /yle ( embroid]y1 simply by v>y+ ! relative l5g? ( ! /it*es4 ,foll[+ ! nom5clature ( ! committee :i* nam$ & catalogu$ ! specim5s ( anci5t ne$lework exhibit$ 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum 9 #ahgb1 we h class$ all ! v>ieties ( ^! gr\nd+ /it*es "u ! "n ( ,cu%ion /it*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,cu%ion ,/it*es are tak5 z 9 laid embroid]y1 s z to leave all ! silk & crewel on ! surface1 & only a s+le ?read ( ! gr\nd is tak5 up2 b 9 place ( ly+ 9 long l9es1 f end to end ( ! mat]ial1 !y are ( ev5 l5g?1 & are tak5 9 a patt]n1 su* z a wav$ l9e or zigzag2 s t :5 f9i%$ ! gr\nd pres5ts ! appe>ance ( a wov5 fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ag4--;,,cu%ion ,,/it*4 ,we give an illu/ration ( "o v>iety ( cu%ion /it*1 :i* may ei!r be work$ z describ$ "h1 or 9 ! h&1 z 9 ! woodcut4 ,a good mod]n example ( ?is backgr\nd 0 exhibit$ 9 ! ,s*ool1 on a b$-hang+1 work$ = ! ,hon\rable ,mrs4 ,p]cy ,wyndham1 f a design by ,mr4 ,w4 ,morris4 ,9 ! ,exhibition ( ,anci5t ,ne$lework la/ ye> 7 _m beautiful specim5s3 notably "o enorm\s wall-hang+ ( ,italian sev5te5?-c5tury "w1 l5t by ,e>l ,sp5c]4 ,_m ( ! fabrics kn[n z ,tape/ries are wov5 imitations ( ^! gr\nds1 & c>ry embroid]y s p]fectly1 t on ! :ole1 except = small pieces1 x seems a wa/e ( h&-lab\r to "w !m 91 z ! effect is n v f> remov$ f t ( wov5 mat]ial1 :ile ! exp5se is1 ( c\rse1 v mu* great]4 ,! anci5t specim5s ( ?is /it* are work$ on a co>se canvas1 diff]+ greatly f t :i* 0 rec5tly us$ = ,b]l9 wool "w4 ,x _c n[ be obta9$ except by hav+ x especially made to ord]4 ,x has be5 replac$ by a co>se h&-wov5 l95 = ! use ( ! ,s*ool1 b ! anci5t canvas is va/ly sup]ior1 z its loos5ess makes x easi] = ! work] to keep h] /it*es 9 regul> l9es4 ,9 "s anci5t specim5s ! design is work$ 9 fea!r /it*1 & ! :ole gr\nd 9 cu%ion /it*4 ,9 o!rs ! design is 9 f9e cross or t5t /it*4 ,!re are sev]al v beautiful examples ( ?is k9d ( embroid]y 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum--,italian1 ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,a v>iety ( cu%ion /it*1 :i* we frequ5tly see 9 old ,italian embroid]ies1 0 taught 9 ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework by ,miss ,burd51 & us$ "u h] direction 9 work+ fle% 9 "s l>ge figures design$ by ,mr4 ,walt] ,crane = wall decoration1 & exhibit$ at ! ,c5t5nial ,exhibition at ,philadelphia4 ,! /it*es are kept ( "o uni=m l5g? across ! design4 ,! next r[ is />t$ f half ! dep? ( ! prec$+ /it* & kept ( ! same l5g? ?r\gh\t4 ,its beauty consi/s 9 its p]fect regul>ity4 ,if work$ 9 ! h&1 ! ne$le is br\ght back und]nea? ! mat]ial z 9 sat9 /it*2 b 9 ! frame all ! silk or wor/$ c be work$ on ! surface1 ) ! exception ( ! small fa/5+ /it*es4 ,! effect :5 f9i%$ is t ( a wov5 fabric4 ,x is really m suitable 9 its orig9al "* ( a gr\nd /it* ?an = work+ fle%4 ,we h giv5 an illu/ration ( x1 because we are s frequ5tly ask$ to describe ,burd5 /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ah4--;,,burd5 ,,/it*4 ,?is =m ( cu%ion /it* work$ extremely f9e has be5 us$ = fle% 9 v anci5t embroid]ies1 ev5 be=e ! introduction ( ! ,opus ,anglicanum1 & is f\nd 9 ! works ( ! ,flemi%1 ,g]man1 ,italian1 & ,fr5* s*ools ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4 ,x seems to h be5 work$ 9 a frame on f9e canvas1 or on a fabric ( v ev5 ?reads1 & ! /it*es s tak5 t ! same am\nt ( silk appe>s on ! back z on ! surface ( ! embroid]y4 ,9 a toilet cov] ( anci5t ,spani% "w rec5tly add$ to ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ! design is entirely embroid]$ 9 v>ieties ( cu%ion /it* 9 black floss silk ^u a :ite l95 gr\nd4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 extremely r>e to see ?is /it* us$ 9 any o!r way ?an z a gr\nd1 except 9 actual canvas "w2 9 :i* we (t5 see v>ieties ( x us$ to fill 9 portions ( ! design1 :ile ano!r /it* w be devot$ entirely to ! gr\nd+4 ,^! /it*es 7 (t5 execut$ on an op5 net4 99 99 99 99 99 ,/em ,/it* is us$ 9 frame embroid]y1 & does n diff] 9 any way f t describ$ at page #bj1 "u h&work1 except t ! ne$le is ( c\rse work$ ?r\gh ! mat]ial ) bo? h&s1 z is ! case 9 all frame "w4 ,! same may be said ( split /it*2 b ?is is m frequ5tly 7because m easily7 work$ 9 a frame ?an done 9 ! h&4 99 99 99 99 99 ,japanese ,/it* is a modification ( /em1 b its peculi>ity consi/s 9 ! work] tak+ v long /it*es1 & !n br++ ! ne$le back to )9 a %ort di/ance ( ! fir/ />t+-place2 s t !y may be 9 ev5 p>allel l9es1 advanc+ by gradation f left to "r4 ,x is pr9cipally us$ = work+ wat] or gr\nd 9 a l&scape4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #ai4 99 99 99 99 99 ,tamb\r ,"w has fall5 into disuse1 b 0 greatly admir$ :5 our gr&mo!rs 9 ! la/ c5tury sprigg$ ,indian musl9s or silks ) col\r$ fl[]s = dresses1 & copi$ or adapt$ ,indian designs on f9e l95 cov]lets4 ,^! 7 v ref9$1 b no m effective ?an a good *9tz4 ,!re are exquisite specim5s ( ! /it* to be se5 9 mo/ ,engli% homes1 & 9 ,france x 0 9 vogue 9 ! days ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette4 ,its use is n[ almo/ conf9$ to ! manufacture ( :at is kn[n z ,iri% or ,lim]ick lace1 :i* is made on net 9 ! old tamb\r frames1 & ) a tamb\r or cro*et hook4 ,! frame is =m$ ( two r+s ( wood or iron1 made to fit loosely "o )9 ! o!r4 ,bo? r+s are cov]$ ) baize or flannel w\nd r\nd !m till ! inn] "o c only j be pass$ ?r\gh ! out]4 ,! fabric to be embroid]$ is plac$ ov] ! small] hoop1 & ! o!r is press$ d[n ov] x & firmly fix$ ) a screw4 ,a small wood5 frame ( ?is description is univ]sally us$ 9 ,irel& = :ite embroid]y on l95 or musl94 ,9 tamb\r "w ! ?read is kept bel[ ! frame & guid$ by ! left h&1 :ile ! hook or cro*et ne$le is pass$ f ! surface ?r\gh ! fabric1 & br+s up a loop ( ! ?read ?r\gh ! prec$+ /it*1 & ! ne$le aga9 ins]t$1 =m+ ?us a close *a9 on ! surface ( ! "w4 ,! difficulty ( work+ *a9 /it* 9 a frame probably l$ to ! introduction ( a hook = ?is class ( embroid]y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,p]haps we ought n to omit all m5tion ( ! ,opus ,anglicum or ,anglicanum 7,engli% "w71 ?\gh x is /rictly ecclesia/ical1 & !re=e does n ent] into our prov9ce4 ,dr4 ,rock#a & o!r au?orities agree 9 ?9k+ t ! di/9ctive feature ( ?is /yle1 :i* 0 introduc$ ab\t ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 0 a new way ( work+ ! fle% 9 subjects conta9+ figures4 ,in/ead ( ! faces be+ work$ 9 r[s ( /raight /it*es 7l t describ$ z ,burd5 /it* on page #ej7 z we see 9 ! old ,flemi%1 ,g]man1 & ,italian "w ( ! same p]iod1 ! ,engli% embroid]]s inv5t$ a new /it*1 :i* !y comm5c$ 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek & work$ r\nd & r\nd--gradually lett+ ! l9es fall into out] circles ( ord9>y fea!r /it*4 ,hav+ ?us prep>$ an ela/ic surface1 !y proce$$ to model ! =ms & make lights & %ad[s by press+ ! "w into holl[s1 ) small heat$ metal balls1 ! "w be+ probably damp$ z a prep>ation = ?is process4 ,s skilfully did !y c>ry out _! int5tion1 t ! effect is /ill ! same aft] ! lapse ( five c5turies4 ,we mu/ unwill+ly add t1 ?\gh mu* appreciat$ 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! effect is r curi\s & qua9t ?an beautiful4 ,! ,syon cope 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 is a f9e specim5 ( ?is attempt to give ! effect ( bas-relief to ! sacr$ subjects depict$4 ,! :ole cope %[s h[ v>i\s 7 ! /it*es work$ at t p]iod4 ,on exam9ation ) a microscope1 ! fle% /it* appe>s to be m]ely a f9e split /it* work$ spirally1 z we n[ "w fruit4 ,,footnote3 #a ,see ,dr4 ,rock's preface to 8 ,descriptive ,catalogue ( ,,textile ,,fabrics 9 ! ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,decoration ,,cut ,,"w ,,or ,,appliqu4 ,decorative cut "w is ( inf9ite v>iety1 b may be divid$ into two gr\ps1 inlaid appliqu & onlaid appliqu4 99 99 99 99 99 ,inlaid appliqu consi/s 9 trac+ ! same patt]n on two diff]5t fabrics1 say a gold clo? & a crimson velvet2 !n cutt+ bo? out c>efully1 & inlay+ ! gold fl[]s into ! crimson velvet gr\nd1 & ! crimson fl[]s into ! gold gr\nd4 ,?is k9d ( "w may be se5 con/antly 9 ,italian rooms ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & ! alt]nate bread?s ( crimson & gold give a v f9e effect z ( pila/]s1 & 9 g5]al are enri*$ by a valance appli$ at ! top1 & a pla9 bord] at ! bottom4 ,! inlaid "p is sewn d[n ) ?read1 & cov]$ ) cord or c\*+s ( floss silk4 ,sometimes n>r[ ribbons or f9e /rips ( cut silk are /it*$ ov] ! edges to keep !m d[n flat4 99 99 99 99 99 ,onlaid appliqu is done by cutt+ out ! patt]n 9 "o or _m col\r$ mat]ials1 & lay+ x d[n on an intact gr\nd ( ano!r mat]ial4 ,p>ts are (t5 %ad$ ) a bru%1 high lights & details work$ 9 ) /it*es ( silk1 & sometimes :ole fl[]s or figures are embroid]$1 cut out1 & c\*$ d[n4 ,?is sort ( "w is extremely amus+1 & gives scope to mu* play ( fancy & +5uity1 & :5 arti/ically compos$ x is sometimes v beautiful4 ,ano!r /yle ( onlaid appliqu is only work$ 9 solid outl9es1 laid d[n 9 ribbon or cord1 sometimes 9 bo?4 ,?is 0 mu* 9 vogue 9 ! "t ( ,que5 ,anne1 & = a hundr$ ye>s aft]4 ,illu/ration3 ,no4 #bj4 ,! ribbon1 v s(t & ?ick1 sometimes figur$1 sometimes pla91 0 manufactur$ ) a /\t ?read on ea* side1 :i* c\ld be drawn1 & s regulate ! ribbon & enable x to foll[ ! fl[ ( ! patt]n4 ,! ,g]man1 ,fr5*1 & ,italians (t5 enri*$ ?is /yle ( "w ) a fl[]1 embroid]$ & appli$ ?r[n 9 "h & !re4 ,v small fr+es also 7 introduc$ into ! patt]n1 or arabesqu$4 ,cut "w1 l ! appellation ,fea!r /it*1 has a totally diff]5t mean+ :5 x is giv5 to :ite embroid]y1 & x has no?+ to d ) appliqu1 b takes its "n f ! fact t ! patt]n is mo/ly cut or pun*$ out1 & !n edg$ ) button-hole or pla9 ov]laid /it*4 ,9 work+ appliqu x is be/1 al?\gh n absolutely necess>y1 to h ! design trac$ on ! mat]ial to be us$ z a gr\nd1 :i* mu/ !n be fram$ z = ord9>y embroid]y4 ,a copy ( ! design mu/ be made on trac+-pap]1 & ! outl9es c>efully prick$ out ) a ne$le or p91 lay+ ! pap] on sev]al folds ( flannel or clo? = great] conv5i5ce 9 prick+4 ,a pad1 made ( a long /rip ( flannel ab\t f\r in*es wide1 roll$ v tightly1 mu/ be made ready1 & "s p\nce made ( ab\t equal quantities ( f9ely p[d]$ *>coal & pipe-clay4 ,! leaf or scroll :i* is want$ = ! "w mu/ n[ be select$1 & ! prick$ design laid face d[nw>ds on ! fabric :i* is to be appli$4 ,! flannel pad mu/ be dipp$ 9 ! p\nce & rubb$ well into ! outl9es ( ! prick$ design1 :i* mu/ be held firmly 9 its place ) ! left h&4 ,on lift+ ! trac+-pap]1 ! design w be f\nd to be m>k$ out on ! mat]ial di/9ctly en\gh = x to be cut out ) a %>p pair ( scissors4 ,! p\nce c aft]w>ds be du/$ (f4 ,! leaf or scroll hav+ be5 ?us cut out mu/ be fa/5$ 9 its place on ! design ) small p9s1 & !n c>efully sewn d[n4 ,! edges are !n f9i%$ (f by /it*es ( embroid]y or by a c\*+ l9e 7see page #ci74 ,! /ems are frequ5tly work$ 9 ) /em /it*+ or c\*+1 & ! leaves enri*$ by l>ge ve9+s ( crewel or silk "w1 or 9 conv5tional designs1 ) "s ( ! _m v>ieties ( h]r+bon+4 99 99 99 99 99 ,gold ,embroid]y on velvet or sat9 gr\nds requires to be work$ on a /rong ev5 l951 & !n cut out & appli$ 9 ! same mann] z ord9>y appliqu4 ,:]e a p>ticul>ly ri* & rais$ effect is requir$ any embroid]y may be treat$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,x is ( c\rse m tr\blesome1 b q repays ! lab\r sp5t ^u x by ! increas$ beauty ( ! "w4 ,! transf] ( old embroid]ies on to a new gr\nd is usually done by appliqu1 al?\gh we h already describ$ a bett] process at page #ci4 ,9 transf]r+ old ne$lework x is necess>y to cut away ! gr\nd close to ! edge ( ! embroid]y4 ,x is !n plac$ on ! new mat]ial1 :i* has be5 previ\sly fram$1 & ! outl9e tack$ d[n4 ,! be/ way ( f9i%+ is !n to "w 9 ! edges ) silks dy$ exactly to mat* ! col\rs 9 ! old "w4 ,if prop]ly done1 x is impossible to discov] :i* are old & :i* new /it*es1 & only by exam9+ ! back1 t ! "w has be5 transf]r$ at all4 ,we us$ ! words dy$ to mat* advis$ly1 z x is impossible o!rwise to procure new silks :i* w correspond ) ! old4 ,embroid]y transf]r$ 9 ?is mann] is z good z x 0 9 its fir/ days1 & 9 _m cases is mu* bett]1 = "t (t5 has ! same mell[+ & beautify+ effect 9 embroid]ies z 9 pa9t+s4 ,a less exp5sive1 b also a mu* less *>m+1 me?od is to edge ! old embroid]y aft] apply+ x to ! new gr\nd ) a cord or l9e ( c\*+4 ,) ?is treatm5t x is1 h[ev]1 always easy to p]ceive t ! "w has be5 transf]r$4 ,= almo/ all k9ds ( appliqu x is necess>y to back ! mat]ial2 & x is done 9 ?is mann]3-- ,a piece ( ?9 cotton or l95 fabric is /ret*$ tightly on to a bo>d ) tacks or draw+-p9s4 ,x is !n cov]$ smoo?ly1 & completely1 ) pa/e4 ,! wrong side ( ! velvet1 sat91 s]ge1 or :atev] is to be us$ 9 ! "w1 is !n press$ firmly d[n on ! pa/$ surface ) ! h&s1 & !n left to dry4 ,9 giv+ ! =ego+ acc\nt ( ! mo/ typical /it*es1 we hope we h succe$$ 9 %[+ ! pr9ciple on :i* ea* %\ld be work$4 ,!y =m ! basis ( all embroid]y1 & _! num]\s modifications _c be fully discuss$ 9 ! limit we h prescrib$ to ourselves4 ,x is suffici5t to obs]ve t ! in/ruction we h tri$ to imp>t is t :i* x is absolutely necess>y = ! ne$lework] to ma/] ?or\ghly be=e %e attempts to cope ) ! arti/ic elem5t ( h] "w4 ,t x is a creative art is und\bt$1 = no two pieces ( embroid]y are alike unless execut$ by ! same h&1 & f ! same design4 ,= ! advanc$ arti/ !re is a /ore ( in/ruction 9 ! f9e collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 :i*1 se5 by ! light ( ,dr4 ,rock's invaluable ,catalogue ( ,textile ,fabrics1 is an education 9 itself1 ( :i* ! e?nological z well z ! arti/ic int]e/ _c be ov]-e/imat$1 & x is )9 ! rea* ( all :o c f9d "t to be/[ ^u x4 ,,/ret*+ ,,& ,,f9i%+4 ,always avoid us+ an iron to embroid]y4 ,x flatt5s ! "w1 & is apt to injure ! col\r4 ,= embroid]y on l951 unless v badly done1 x w be f\nd q suffici5t to /ret* ! "w z tightly z possible ) :ite tacks or draw+-p9s on a clean bo>d1 & damp x ev5ly ) a sponge4 ,leave x until q dry1 & !n unfa/5 x1 &1 if necess>y1 comb out ! fr+e4 ,if x is new "w1 x %\ld n be fr+$ until aft] x has be5 /ret*$4 ,= crewel "w on clo? or s]ge1 x is sometimes necess>y to rub a little %oemak]'s pa/e on to ! back ( ! embroid]y1 :ile x is tightly /ret*$4 ,:5 pa/+ c be avoid$1 x is always bett] to d )\t x2 b x s]ves to /eady ! "w 9 "s cases1 & makes x we> bett]4 ,unless x is absolutely necess>y1 x is bett] n to pa/e ! back ( scre5 panels1 :atev] may be ! mat]ials on :i* !y are work$2 b m especially sat9 or velvet1 z x int]f]es ) ! /ra9+ ( ! "w by ! cab9et-mak]4 99 99 99 99 99 ,we give a recipe = ,,embroid]y ,,pa/e1 :i* is said to be excell5t3--,?ree & a half spoonfuls ( fl\r1 & z mu* p[d]$ res9 z w lie on a half-p5ny4 ,mix ^! well & smoo?ly ) half a p9t ( wat]1 & p\r x into an iron saucepan4 ,put 9 "o teaspoonful ( ess5ce ( cloves1 & g on /irr+ till x boils4 ,let x boil = five m9utes1 & turn x into a gallipot to cool4 ,n4,b4--,let ! gallipot h 9 x a musl9 bag3 ! wat] c !n be dra9$ out f "t to "t1 & ! pa/e w be mu* bett]4 ,,clean+4 ,good crewels w always wa% or clean )\t injury2 b ! *eap & inf]ior wor/$s w n d s4 ,ord9>y crewel "w on l95 may be wa%$ at home1 by plung+ x into a la!r made by wat] 9 :i* bran has be5 boil$1 or ev5 ) simple soap-suds1 s long z no soda or wa%+-p[d] is us$4 ,x %\ld be c>efully r9s$ )\t wr++1 & hung up to dry4 ,:5 almo/ dry1 x may be /ret*$ out ) draw+-p9s on a bo>d1 & w n require iron+4 ,embroid]y on clo? or s]ge may (t5 be clean$ ) b5zol9e1 appli$ ) a piece ( clean flannel2 b 9 any case1 :]e a piece ( "w is mu* soil$1 or 9 ! case ( f9e d'oyleys1 x is saf] to s5d x to ! clean]'s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,messrs4 ,pull> & ,son1 ,p]? ,dye ,works1 are v successful 9 clean+ all k9ds ( embroid]y )\t injur+ x4 ,9 _m cases x may be well dy$--! silk 9 :i* ! design is work$ always %[+ a diff]5t %ade f ! gr\nd4 ,decoration ,,app5dix4 ,,designs ,,= ,,embroid]y4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,description ,,( ,,! ,,plates4 ,no4 #a4--;,,design ,,= ,,wall-,,panel4 ,by ,mr4 ,e4 ,burne-,jones4 ,work$ 9 outl9e on neutral-t9t$ h&-wov5 l95 9 br[n crewel4 ,?is /yle ( embroid]y is v suitable = int]nal decoration1 :]e a good broad effect is requir$ )\t a l>ge am\nt ( lab\r4 ,a frieze or dado1 or complete panell+ ( a room1 may be work$ 9 ?is way at a comp>atively small co/4 ,no4 #b4--;,,design ,,= ,,wall ,,or ,,scre5 ,,panel4 ,by ,mr4 ,walt] ,crane4 ,repres5t+ ! ,f\r ,elem5ts4 ,embroid]$ 9 crewels on a silk gr\nd ( dead gold col\r p>tly outl9$4 ,no4 #c4--;,,design ,,= ,,quilt ,,or ,,table ,,cov]4 ,by ,mr4 ,george ,ait*ison4 ,a bord] ( sunfl[]s & pomegranates1 ) p[d]+s ( ! same = ! c5tre4 ,?is has be5 embroid]$ on cream-col\r$ sat9 de *9e 9 solid crewel "w1 ) *>m+ effect1 bo? = a c\nt]pane & curta9s4 ,no4 #d4--;,,design ,,= ,,wall ,,panell+ ,,or ,,curta9s4 ,by ,mr4 ,fairfax ,wade4 ,to be work$ 9 outl9e & solid embroid]y1 9 silk or filoselle1 on sat9 de *9e4 ,no4 #e4--;,,design ,,= ,,quilt ,,or ,,c\vre-,,pi$4 ,by ,mr4 ,fairfax ,wade4 ,to introduce squ>es ( ,greek or guipure lace4 ,work$ 9 gold5 %ades ( silk on l951 l9$ ) silk ( ! same col\r4 ,! embroid]y is p>tly solid & p>tly outl9e1 v f9e & delicate4 ,no4 #f4--;,,design ,,= ,,s(a-,,back ,,cov]4 ,by ,mr4 ,w4 ,morris4 ,work$ on h&-wov5 l95 9 two %ades ( gold-col\r$ silks4 ,outl9e4 ,no4 #g4--;,,design ,,= ,,s(a-,,back ,,cov] ,,or ,,piano ,,panel4 ,by ,mr4 ,george ,ait*ison4 ,work$ 9 two %ades ( blue silk on h&-wov5 l95 or sat9 de *9e4 ,no4 #h4--;,,design ,,= ,,appliqu4 ,by ,mr4 ,fairfax ,wade4 ,nos4 #i & #aj4--;,,designs ,,= ,,*air-,,seats ,,or ,,cu%ions4 ,by ,miss ,jekyll4 ,p]iw9kle & ,iris4 ,no4 #aa4--;,,design ,,= ,,bord]4 ,by ,miss ,web/]4 ,to be work$ 9 outl9e 9 silk or crewel4 ,no4 #ab4--;,,design ,,= ,,bord] ,,= ,,curta9 ,,or ,,table ,,cov]4 ,design$ by ,miss ,burnside1 ( ! ,r4,s4,a4,n4 ,no4 #ac4--,,table ,,bord]4 ,design$ by ,mr4 ,fairfax ,wade4 ,conv5tional ,butt]cup4 ,to be work$ ei!r solid or 9 outl9e4 ,no4 #ad4--,,table ,,bord]4 ,design$ by ,mr4 ,walt] ,crane4 ,= solid embroid]y 9 crewel or silk4 ,no4 #ae4--,,table ,,bord]4 ,design$ by ,mr4 ,walt] ,crane4 ,= solid embroid]y 9 crewel or silk4 ,no4 #af4--;,,bord]4 ,design$ by ,miss ,m>y ,h]b]t1 ,r4,s4,a4,n4 ,= crewel or silk embroid]y1 ei!r 9 outl9e or solid4 ,no4 #ag4--,,two ,,panels4 ,design$ by ,rev4 ,selwyn ,image4 ,repres5t+ ,juno & ,m9]va4 ,no4 #ah4--,,two ,,panels4 ,design$ by ,rev4 ,selwyn ,image4 ,repres5t+ ,v5us & ,pros]p9e4 ,to be work$ 9 outl9e on l951 z ,no4 #a1 or 9 col\r$ silks on a gr\ndwork ( sat9 de *9e4 ,no4 #ai4--,,wall ,,hang+4 ,design$ by ,mr4 ,w4 ,morris4 ,to be work$ on l95 9 outl9e4 ,no4 #bj4--,,wall ,,hang+4 ,design$ by ,mr4 ,w4 ,morris4 ,work$ on l954 ,backgr\nd 9 ,silk ,cu%ion ,/it*4 ,no4 #ba4--;,,bord] ,,= ,,appliqu4 ,copi$ f ,anci5t ,italian "w4 ,no4 #bb4--;,,italian ,,design4 ,a ,specim54 ,%[+ ! application ( transpos$ ,appliqu4 ,illu/ration3 #a4 ,,design ,,= ,,wall ,,panel4 ,by ,e4 ,burne-,jones4 ,illu/ration3 #b4 ,,design ,,= ,,wall ,,panel4 ,by ,walt] ,crane4 ,illu/ration3 #c4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,quilt ,,or ,,table ,,cov]4 ,by ,george ,ait*ison4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #d4 ,,design ,,= ,,wall ,,panel ,,or ,,curta94 ,by ,fairfax ,wade4 ,illu/ration3 #e4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,quilt ,,or ,,c\vre-,,pi$4 ,by ,fairfax ,wade4 ,illu/ration3 #f4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,s(a-,,back ,,cov]4 ,by ,william ,morris4 ,illu/ration3 #g4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,s(a-,,back ,,cov] ,,or ,,piano ,,panel4 ,by ,george ,ait*ison4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #h4 ,,design ,,= ,,appliqu4 ,by ,fairfax ,wade4 ,illu/ration3 ,,designs ,,= ,,*air-,,seats ,,or ,,cu%ions4 7#i4 ,,p]iw9kle #aj4 ,,iris47 ,by ,miss ,jekyll4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #aa4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,bord]4 ,by ,miss ,web/]4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #ab4 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,bord] ,,= ,a ,,curta9 ,,or ,,table ,,cov]4 ,by ,miss ,burnside4 ,illu/ration3 ,,designs ,,= ,,table ,,bord]s4 ,no4 #ac by ,fairfax ,wade2 #ad & #ae by ,walt] ,crane2 #af by ,m>y ,h]b]t4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #ag4 ,,two ,,designs ,,= ,,wall ,,panels--,,juno ,,& ,,m9]va4 ,by ! ,rev4 ,selwyn ,image4 ,illu/ration3 #ah4 ,,two ,,designs ,,= ,,wall ,,panels--,,v5us ,,& ,,pros]p9e4 ,by ! ,rev4 ,selwyn ,image4 ,illu/ration3 #ai4 ,,design ,,= ,,wall-,,hang+4 ,by ,william ,morris4 ,illu/ration3 #bj4 ,,design ,,= ,,wall-,,hang+4 ,by ,william ,morris4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #ba4 ,,design ,,= ,,bord] ,,= ,,appliqu4 ,f ,anci5t ,italian ,"w4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #bb4 ,,italian ,,design4 ,%[+ ! application ( transpos$ ,appliqu4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,decoration ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework4 ,incorporat$ "u ,! ,companies' ,acts1 #ahfb & #ahfg1 by lic5ce ( ! ,bo>d ( ,trade1 grant$ "u #cj & #ca ,vic41 c4 #aca1 sec4 #bc4 ,%>e ,capital1 #aj1jjj1 9 #ajjj ,%>es ( #aj ea*4 ,deb5ture ,capital1 #aj1jjj1 to be issu$ 9 ,deb5tures ( #ej ea*4 ,patrons4 ,,h] ,,maje/y ,,! ,,que54 ,h4,r4,h4 ,,! ,,pr9ce ,,( ,,wales4 ,h4,r4,h4 ,,! ,,pr9cess ,,( ,,wales4 ,presid5t4 ,h4,r4,h4 ,,! ,,pr9cess ,,*ri/ian ,,( ,,s*leswig-,,hol/e94 ,pr9cess ( ,great ,brita9 & ,irel&4 ,vice-,presid5t4 ,,! ,,lady ,,m>ian ,,al=d4 ,manag+ ,committee4 ,,! ,,c\ntess ,,sp5c]4 ,,! ,,c\ntess ,,c[p]4 ,,! ,,c\ntess ,,br[nl[4 ,,! ,,visc\ntess ,,d[ne4 ,,! ,,lady ,,s>ah ,,sp5c]4 ,,! ,,hon4 ,,lady ,,welby ,,gregory4 ,,! ,,hon4 ,,mrs4 ,,p]cy ,,wyndham4 ,,mrs4 ,,edw>d ,,b>+4 7,) p[] to add to _! numb]47 ,honor>y ,memb]s ( ! ,manag+ ,committee4 ,,! ,,lady ,,*>lotte ,,s*reib]4 ,,! ,,hon4 ,,lady ,,hamilton-,,gordon4 ,,! ,,lady ,,fitzh>d+e4 ,,! ,,hon4 ,,mrs4 ,,/u>t ,,wortley4 ,f9ance ,committee4 ,,! ,,duke ,,( ,,we/m9/]1 ,k4,g4 ,,! ,,e>l ,,br[nl[4 ,,! ,,"l ,,sudeley4 ,,sir ,,c\tts ,,l9dsay1 ,,b>t4 ,,! ,,"r ,,hon4 ,,sir ,,william ,,h5ry ,,gregory1 ,k4,c4,m4,g4 ,,mi*ael ,,biddulph1 ,,esq41 ,m4,p4 ,,edmund ,,oldfield1 ,,esq4 ,bank]s4 ,,london ,,& ,,c\nty ,,bank1 ,alb]t ,gate ,bran*4 ,solicitors4 ,,messrs4 ,,tr9d]s ,,curtis-,,hayw>d1 #d1 ,bi%opsgate ,/reet ,)91 ,e4,c4 ,(fices4 ,,exhibition ,,road1 ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton4 ,,prospectus4 ,! ,s*ool 0 f\nd$ 9 #ahgb1 "u ! ,presid5cy ( ,h4,r4,h4 ! ,pr9cess ,*ri/ian ( ,s*leswig-,hol/e91 = ! tw(old purpose ( supply+ suitable employm5t = ,g5tlewom5 & re/or+ ,ornam5tal ,ne$lework to ! high place x once held among ! decorative arts4 ,x 0 fir/ e/abli%$1 "u ! title ( ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 9 ,sloane ,/reet2 b 9 #ahge 0 remov$ to ! pres5t premises 9 ! ,exhibition ,road1 & ,h] ,maje/y ! ,que5 0 graci\sly pleas$ to grant to x ! prefix ( ,royal4 ,! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework exhibit$ at ! ,c5t5nial ,exhibition ( ,philadelphia1 #ahgf1 & receiv$ a ,c]tificate ( ,aw>d--m$als n be+ grant$ to in/itutions or corporate bodies4 ,a ,silv] ,m$al 0 also grant$ by ! ,jurors ( ! ,int]national ,exhibition1 ,p>is1 #ahgh1 = embroid]ies exhibit$ !re4 ,! result ( sev5 ye>s' exp]i5ce ( ! work+ ( ! ,s*ool has %[n t ! objects = :i* x 0 =m$ are appreciat$ by ! public1 & has ju/ifi$ its e/abli%m5t on a p]man5t basis4 ,?is has accord+ly be5 effect$ "u a special lic5ce f ! ,bo>d ( ,trade1 grant$ "u au?ority ( an ,act ( ,p>liam5t :i* au?orizes ! incorporation ( associations n con/itut$ = purposes ( pr(it4 ,! ultimate pr(its ( ! ,association1 aft] paym5t ( all ,deb5tures1 are to be appli$ to su* *>itable or o!r purposes z ! ,association may f "t to "t det]m9e1 n be+ inconsi/5t ) ! provisions ( ! ,memor&um ( ,association1 :i* require t ! ,%>ehold]s %all n take any p]sonal pr(it out ( ! ,association4 ,! gov]nm5t ( ! ,s*ool is ve/$ 93 ,fir/4--,a ,presid5t1 ,vice-,presid5t1 & ,g5]al ,c\ncil4 ,second4--,a ,manag+ ,committee to be select$ f ! ,g5]al ,c\ncil1 except z to ,honor>y ,memb]s to be nom9at$ by ! ,manag+ ,committee4 ,?ird4--,a ,f9ance ,committee1 ( :om a majority are to be elect$ by ! ,%>ehold]s1 & ! rema9d] nom9at$ by ! ,manag+ ,committee4 ,! sanction ( ?is ,committee is requir$ = all exp5diture4 ,ag5cies h n[ be5 op5$ 9 ,liv]pool1 ,man*e/]1 ,le$s1 ,norwi*1 ,birm+ham & ,glasg[2 & a memb] ( ! /aff has be5 s5t out to take *>ge ( ! ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework 9 ,philadelphia4 ,! ,%[ ,rooms are op5 f #aj a4m4 to #f p4m4 9 ,summ]1 & to #e p4m4 9 ,w9t]1 & close on ,saturdays at #b p4m4 ,all lett]s mu/ be address$ ,! ,secret>y4 ,li/s ( designs1 prices ( prep>$ & f9i%$ "w1 t]ms = lessons1 & addresses ( ,prov9cial ,ag5ts1 may be obta9$ by writ+ to ! ,secret>y4 ,a ,bran* ,s*ool = ,scotl& has n[ be5 op5$ 9 ,glasg[4 ,%[ ,rooms at #ajh1 ,/4 ,v9c5t ,/reet4 ,decoration ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework4 ,,exhibition ,,road1 ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton4 ,,prep>$ ,,"w4 ,decoration ,"w c be obta9$ f ! ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework hav+ a design trac$1 a portion ( ! embroid]y comm5c$1 & suffici5t mat]ials = f9i%+4 ,ladies' own mat]ials w be trac$ & prep>$ = work+ if desir$4 ,dresses mu/ be cut out & tack$ toge!r be=e be+ s5t to ! ,s*ool1 & l9es m>k$ on ! mat]ial to %[ :]e ! design is to be plac$4 ,:5 an ord] = prep>$ "w is execut$ exactly by ! directions giv51 or :5 ! selection ( ,design or ,col\r+ is left to ! ,s*ool1 ! "w _c be ex*ang$ or tak5 back4 ,! mat]ials suppli$ ) ! "w are consid]$ m ?an suffici5t to f9i% x1 & if m are requir$ aft]w>ds !y mu/ be pur*as$ sep>ately4 ,a few specim5 prices are quot$1 b no e/imates c be giv5 = prep>$ "w1 except 9 cases ( l>ge ord]s :]e a great quantity ( mat]ial is suppli$4 ,all ,designs suppli$ are ,copyright ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 & mu/ n be made use ( = purposes ( sale4 ,designs on pap] are n suppli$ "u any circum/ances1 nor c "w be s5t out on approbation4 ,all "w suppli$ is /amp$ ) ! monogram ( ! ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework1 z above1 9 addition to ! lett]s ,p4 ,w4 ,n4,b4--,an extra *>ge is made = all designs n ord9>ily us$ = ,prep>$ ,"w4 ,,approximate ,,prices ,,( ,,prep>$ ,,"w ,,& ,,mat]ials4 ,,table ,,cov]s1 on ,diagonal1 f #a #as4 to #e #es4 ,s]ge #ahs4 to #c #cs4 ,,l95 ,,table ,,cov]s1 y>d squ>e1 #ads4 #f;d4 to #a #ajs4 ,,*air ,,back ,,cov]s1 ,l951 #gs4 #f;d4 to #a #as4 ,,bord]s1 on ,l951 suitable = ,table ,cov]s or ,dresses1 f #es4 p] y>d4 ,,bord]s1 on ,s]ge or ,diagonal1 suitable = ,table ,cov]s or ,dresses1 f #gs4 p] y>d4 ,,bord]s1 on ,s]ge or ,diagonal1 suitable = ,curta9s1 ,*imney ,valances1 c41 f #acs4 p] y>d4 ,n4,b4--,if sev]al y>ds are ord]$ ( "o patt]n ! price is l[]4 ,,bann] ,,scre5s1 ,l95 7v>i\s71 #hs4 #f;d4 to #aes4 #f;d4 ,diagonal1 #abs4 #f;d4 to #b #bs4 ,,babies' ,,blankets1 f #ads4 #f;d4 ,,ba? ,,blankets1 y>d squ>e1 #ags4 #f;d42 y>d & a half squ>e1 #bfs4 ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress1 f #ahs4 to #a #ajs4 ,,t5nis ,,aprons1 f #a #as4 ,,cu%ions1 ,l951 #gs4 #f;d4 to #abs #f;d42 on ,diagonal1 c41 #ajs4 #f;d4 to #a #as4 ,,toilet ,,mats or ,d',,oyley1 #h in*es squ>e1 f #a #fs4 to #c #cs4 p] doz54 ,,fold+ ,,scre5s1 on ,sailclo?1 #a #as4 to #a #ajs4 p] panel4 ,,crewels4 ,crewels are sold at ! rate ( #h;d4 p] ounce ske91 or 9 qu>t]-p\nd bundles1 conta9+ n m ?an f\r %ades1 at #bs4 ,9 qu>t]-p\nd bundles1 conta9+ select$ col\rs1 at #cs4 ,,embroid]y ,,silks1 at #fs4 #f;d4 p] ounce reel1 & #cs4 #c;d4 p] half-ounce reel ( "o %ade2 or at #hs4 p] ounce ( select$ col\rs4 ,,filoselle1 #cs4 #f;d4 p] ounce4 ,,ne$les1 #i;d4 p] packet4 ,,mat]ials1 suitable = embroid]y1 su* z ,homespuns1 ,fancy ,l95s1 ,s]ge1 ,diagonal1 ,utre*t ,velvet1 ,sat9 de ,*9e1 c4 c41 may be pur*as$ at ! ,s*ool4 ,,n ,,less ,,?an ,,"o ,,y>d ,,sold4 ,decoration ,decoration ,,li/ ,,( ,,designs4 ,,*air ,,backs4 ,honeysuckle1 ,bramble1 ,poppy1 ,passion ,fl[]1 ,taxonia1 ,wild ,rose1 ,apple ,blossom1 ,orange ) ,fl[]s1 ,virg9ia ,creep]1 ,fi% & ,bulru%es1 ,w9t] ,*]ry1 ,corn ,fl[]1 ,hops1 ,c>nations1 ,*]ry1 ,daisy ,p[d]$1 ,primrose ,p[d]$1 ,fau/ ,motto1 ,iris ,se$1 ,japanese1 ,jessam9e1 ,lant]n ,plant1 ,p]iw9kle1 ,potato1 ,zynia1 ,tig] ,lily1 ,g]anium1 ,burrage1 ,corncockle1 ,haw?orn1 ,daffodil1 ,iris1 ,love-9-a-,mi/1 c4 c41 ) _m conv5tional designs4 ,,n>r[ ,,bord]s4 ,,suitable ,,= ,,dresses ,,or ,,table ,,cov]s4 ,love-9-a-,mi/1 ,daisy1 ,poppy1 ,honeysuckle1 ,/rawb]ry1 ,=get-me-,n1 ,flax1 ,jessam9e1 ,blackb]ry1 ,virg9ia ,creep]1 ,haw?orn1 ,daffodil1 ,c[slip1 ,*]ry1 ,butt]cup1 ,m\nta9 ,a%1 ,ragg$ ,rob91 ,pot5tilla1 ,apple ,blossom1 ,/rawb]ry & ,blossom1 ,*ri/mas ,rose1 c4 c41 also _m conv5tional designs4 ,,curta9 ,,bord]s4 ,sunfl[]1 ,pomegranate1 ,passion ,fl[]1 ,taxonia1 ,poppy1 ,lilies1 ,magnolia1 ,orange1 ,hops1 ,m>gu]ites1 ,love-9-a-,mi/1 ,wild ,rose1 ,arbutus1 ,*rysan!mum1 ,iris1 ,c[slip1 ,primrose1 ,apple1 c4 c4 ,! same ,designs c be _h 9 ,horizontal ,bord]s = ,*imney ,valances1 wide ,table ,bord]s1 & c be adapt$ = any purpose4 ,n4,b4--,! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework has no ,bran* ,s*ool nor any ,ag5cy 9 ,london4 ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework4 ,,exhibition ,,road1 ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton4 ,septemb]1 #ahgh4 ,! ,committee ( ,managem5t ( ! ,,royal ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art-,,ne$lework has n[ organiz$ ,classes = ,tea*+ ,ornam5tal ,ne$lework at _! premises 9 ! ,exhibition ,road1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,^! ,classes are especially e/abli%$ = ! in/ruction ( ,ladies & ,*ildr51 & include e k9d ( /it* 9 ,crewel1 ,silk1 & ,gold4 ,ladies :o wi% to take lessons1 or s5d _! ,*ildr51 are reque/$ to s5d _! names to ! ,secret>y1 :o w in=m !m :5 to att5d4 ,ea* ,c\rse w consi/ ( ,six ,lessons4 ,,crewels4 ,,?ird ,,class--,,six ,,lessons4 s4 d4 ,"o ,p]son #a #d #j ,two ( same ,family #a #af #j ,?ree ditto #b #h #j ,,silk ,,& ,,appliqu4 ,,second ,,class--,,six ,,lessons4 ,"o ,p]son #a #aj #j ,two ( same ,family #b #e #j ,?ree ditto #c #j #j ,,ecclesia/ical ,,embroid]y4 ,,fir/ ,,class--,,six ,,lessons4 ,"o ,p]son #b #j #j ,two ( same ,family #c #j #j ,?ree ditto #d #j #j ,,s+le ,,lessons4 ,"o s+le ,lesson 7= #a h\r7 on ,lesson day #j #g #j ,ditto ditto ,special day #j #h #f ,ditto on ,ecclesia/ical ,"w 7at any "t7 #j #aj #f ,private ,lessons at ,home1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ! h\r & exp5ses4 ,special t]ms = ,classes ( ,twelve & upw>ds4 ,,f9i%$ ,,"w4 ,,curta9 ,,bord]s1 on ,s]ge or ,diagonal ,clo?1 f #b #ajs4 to #aj #ajs41 ab\t #c y>ds long4 ,,dress ,,bord]s1 on ditto1 f #gs4 to #ahs4 p] y>d4 on ,h\se ,flannel1 f #cs4 #f;d4 to #ajs4 #f;d4 p] y>d4 ,,curta9 ,,bord]s1 on ,l951 f #a #ajs4 to #f #fs4 ea*4 ,,table ,,bord]s1 on ,l951 f #a #as4 to #b #ajs4 ,,*air ,,backs1 on ,l951 f #ads4 #f;d4 to #b #ajs4 ,,s(a ,,backs1 on ,l95 & ,silk1 f #b #bs4 to #aj4 ,,table ,,cov]s1 on ,l951 f #a #cs4 to #e4 ,s]ge1 f #a #as4 to #g4 ,diagonal1 f #cjs4 to #bf4 ,,small ,,*air ,,seats1 on ,diagonal1 f #acs4 to #b #abs4 ,,l>ge ,s]ge1 f #acs4 to #c #cs4 ,,cu%ions1 made up1 f #b #bs4 to #e #gs4 ,,*ildr5',s ,,dresses1 f #a #as4 to #c #cs4 ,,aprons1 f #abs4 #f;d4 to #a #as4 ,,*ildr5',s ,,fr5* ,,bl\ses1 #ahs4 #f;d4 to #b #cs4 ,,ladies' ,,lawn ,,t5nis ,,aprons1 f #a #es4 to #c #ajs4 ,,l95 ,d',,oyleys1 f #b #gs4 to #h #hs4 p] doz54 ,,tea ,,cosies1 on ,diagonal1 f #afs4 #f;d4 ,,kettl$rum ,d',,oyleys1 ea* #es4 #f;d4 to #afs4 #f;d4 ,,sa*ets1 ) ,mat to correspond1 on ,l951 f #a #fs4 ,,fold+ ,,scre5s1 f #ac to #ajj4 ,,curta9s1 on ,s]ge or ,l951 f #aj to #fj p] pair4 ,,mantel ,,valances1 f #b #bs4 to #aj #ajs4 ,,bann] ,,scre5s1 f #a #ajs4 ,,c\nt]panes1 f #f to #hj4 ,,table ,,scre5s1 f #d #ds4 ,,ladies' ,,alg]ian ,,hoods1 f #c to #aj4 ,,fans1 ,m\nt$1 f #b #gs4 to #bj4 ,,c>riage ,,rugs1 f #b to #aj4 ,,blott] ,,& ,,envelope ,,box1 f #h #hs4 on ,l951 f #a #es4 ,,envelope ,,box1 on ,l951 f #c4 ,,photograph ,,frames1 f #a #ajs4 ,,bell[s1 f #a #ags4 ,,op]a ,,cloaks1 f #c #cs4 ,,night+ale ,,dress+ ,,jacket1 f #b4 ,,ba? ,,slipp]s1 f #fs4 #f;d4 p] pair4 ,,wa%/& ,,backs1 f #a #es4 ,,blanket ,,mats1 = ,ba?1 #aes4 #f;d4 ,,b]ceaunette ,,cov]s1 f #a #ajs4 ,,sun%ade ,,cov]s1 f #c #cs4 ,,piano ,,panels1 f #a #cs4 ,,babies' ,,head ,,flannels1 f #a #cs4 ,,cloaks1 f #d #ds4 ,,h&k]*ief ,,sa*ets1 f #c #cs4 ,,knitt+ ,,pockets1 f #a #as4 ,p4 ,o4 ,ord]s ,payable to ,l4 ,,higg91 ,exhibition ,road4 ,n m ?an #ah ,/amps receiv$4 ,,ag5ts ,,9 ,,! ,,c\ntry4 ,liv]pool3 ,messrs4 ,,rumney ,,love1 ,bold ,/reet4 ,man*e/]3 ,messrs4 ,e4 ,,goodall ,,co41 ,k+ ,/reet4 ,le$s3 ,messrs4 ,,m>%1 ,,jones1 ,,cribbs4 ,norwi*3 ,messrs4 ,,rob]tson ,,sons1 ,que5 ,/reet4 ,glasg[3 ,messrs4 ,,alex&] ,,h[ell1 #ajh1 ,/4 ,v9c5t ,/reet4 ,birm+ham3 ,messrs4 ,,manton1 ,,sons1 ,,gilb]t4 ,& = ,am]ica3 ,messrs4 ,,torrey1 ,,bright1 ,,cap51 ,bo/on4 ,,bran* ,,s*ool ,,= ,,scotl&3 #aaf1 ,,/4 ,,v9c5t ,,/reet1 ,,glasg[4 ,all in=mation to be obta9$ at ! ,%[ ,rooms1 #ajh1 ,/4 ,v9c5t ,/reet4 ,z adv]tisem5ts h f "t to "t appe>$ 9 v>i\s newspap]s (f]+ = sale designs ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art-,ne$lework1 ! ,public is reque/$ to note t no designs ei!r on prick$ pap]1 or 9 any o!r =m ?an on comm5c$ "w1 are1 or ev] h be51 sold by ! ,s*ool1 or suppli$ to any ag5t4 ,fur!r1 t no trac+ p[d] is us$ 9 prep>+ ! patt]ns1 or sold = t purpose4 ,all designs1 !re=e1 (f]$ z ^? ( ! ,royal ,s*ool are ei!r entirely spuri\s1 or are pirat$ f !irs4 ,,*iswick ,,press3--,c4 ,,:itt+ham1 ,,tooks ,,c\rt1 ,,*anc]y ,,lane4 ,transcrib]'s ,note ,m9or typographic errors 9 punctuation h be5 correct$ )\t note4 ,hyph5ation has be5 made consi/5t 9 ! ma9 body ( ! text )\t note4 ,please note t ! au?or uses ! t]m 'high light' r ?an ! m usual 'highlight'4 ,! foll[+ am5dm5ts h be5 made3 ,page #ae--;gr\nds am5d$ to gr\nd--,z gr\nd = embroid]y x has an excell5t effect4 ,page #ec--! page ref]5ce to ,burd5 /it* has be5 am5d$ f #di to #ej4 ,! fir/ #aj caption$ illu/rations 7/>t+ ) ,no4 #a4--,,/em ,,/it*7 h be5 made consi/5t ) ! lat] illu/rations1 by ! removal ( ! ^w ,illu/ration & a comma at ! beg9n+ ( ea* ( ^? captions4 ,! two illu/rations on page #ha 7,plates #aa & #ab7 7 pr9t$ 9 rev]se ord] 9 ! orig9al4 ,! captions h be5 am5d$ to ! correct num]ic ord] 9 ?is e-text4 ,curr5cy indicators 7s4 & d47 7 pr9t$ 9 italics 9 ! orig9al text4 ,! conv5tion has n be5 reta9$ 9 ?is e-text4