,,the ,,making ,,of ,a ,,trade ,,school ,by ,,mary ,,schenck ,,woolman ,director of ,manhattan ,trade ,school for ,girls ,professor of ,domestic ,art1 ,teachers ,college1 ,columbia ,university ,device ,,whitcomb ,,barrows #aiaj ,,boston ,copyright #aiji ,by ,teachers ,college ,thomas ,todd ,co41 ,printers #ad ,beacon ,street ,boston ,,contents ,,part ,,page ,i4 ,,organization ,,and ,,work #a ,,ii4 ,,representative ,,problems #ch ,,iii4 ,,equipment ,,and ,,support #ec ,,iv4 ,,outlines ,,and ,,detailed ,,accounts ,,of ,,department ,,work #eh ,,the ,,making ,,of ,a ,,trade ,,school ,,part ,i ,,organization ,,and ,,work ,history ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school for ,girls began its work in ,november1 #aijb4 ,the building selected for the school was a large private house at #bcc ,west #adth ,street1 which was equipped like a factory and could comfortably accommodate #ajj pupils4 ,training was offered in a variety of satisfactory trades which required the expert use of the needle1 the paste brush1 and the foot and electric power sewing machines4 ,beginning with twenty pupils on its first day1 it was but a few months before the full #ajj were on roll and others were applying4 ,in endeavoring to help all who desired instruction the building was soon overcrowded4 ,it thus became evident that1 unless increased accommodation was provided1 the number already in attendance must be decreased and others1 anxious for the training1 must be turned away4 ,it was decided that even though the enterprise was young the need was urgent1 demanding unusual exertion4 ,it would therefore be wise to make every effort to purchase more commodious quarters4 ,in ,june1 #aijf1 the school moved to a fine business building at #bji-bac ,east #bc;d ,street1 which could offer daily instruction to about #ejj girls4 ,the movement owes its existence to the earnest study that a group of women and men1 interested in philanthropic1 sociological1 economic1 and educational work1 gave to the condition of the working girl in ,new ,york ,city4 ,they were all intimately acquainted with the difficulties of the situation4 ,early in the winter of #aijb this committee made a special investigation of the workrooms of ,new ,york4 ,they were but the more convinced that 7#a7 the wages of unskilled labor are declining2 7#b7 while there is a good opportunity for highly skilled labor1 the supply is inadequate2 7#c7 the condition of the young1 inexpert working girl must be ameliorated by the speedy opening of a trade school for those who have reached the age to obtain working papers2 7#d7 if public instruction could not immediately undertake the organization of such a school1 then private initiative must do it1 even though it must depend for its support upon voluntary contributions4 ,the result was that an extreme effort was put forth and the following ,november the first trade school in ,america1 for girls of fourteen years of age1 was begun4 ,the first ,board of ,administrators1 composed largely of members of the original committee of investigators1 was as follows3 ,president1 ,miss ,virginia ,potter2 ,vice-,presidents1 ,dr4 ,felix ,adler1 ,mr4 ,john ,graham ,brooks1 ,mrs4 ,theodore ,hellman1 ,mrs4 ,anna ,garlin ,spencer1 ,mrs4 ,henry ,ollesheimer2 ,treasurer1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,g4 ,phelps ,stokes2 ,secretary1 ,mr4 ,john ,l4 ,eliot2 ,assistant ,secretary1 ,miss ,louise ,b4 ,lockwood2 ,director1 ,professor ,mary ,schenck ,woolman4 ,purpose and ,scope ,the immediate purpose of the school was to train the youngest and poorest wage-earners to be self-supporting as quickly as possible4 ,it was decided to help the industrial workers rather than the commercial and professional1 as the last two are already to some extent provided for in education4 ,the function of the school was1 therefore1 that of the ,short-,time ,trade ,school1 which would provide the girl who must go to work the moment she can obtain her working papers 7about fourteen years of age7 with an enlightened apprenticeship in some productive occupation4 ,such training cannot be obtained satisfactorily in the market4 ,the immature workers are present there in such large numbers that they complicate the industrial problem by their poverty and inability1 and thus tend to lower the wage4 ,jane ,addams1 of ,hull ,house1 ,chicago1 says these untrained girls enter industry at its most painful point1 where the trades are already so overcrowded and subdivided that there remains in them very little education for the worker4 ,the school purposed to give its help at this very point4 ,trade1 on its side1 is eager to have skilled women directly fitted for its workrooms1 but finds them hard to obtain4 ,the school's duty was to discover the way to meet this wish of the employers of labor4 ,it is true that the utilitarian and industrial education offered by public and private instruction has benefited the home and society1 but such training has not met the problem of adequately fitting for specific employments the young worker who has but a few months to spare4 ,the lack in this instruction has been in specific trade application and flexibility as to method1 artistic needs1 and mechanical devices4 ,these points are essential to place the girl in immediate touch with her workroom4 ,therefore the ,manhattan ,trade ,school assumed the responsibility of providing an economic instruction in the practical work of various trades1 thus supplying them with capable assistants4 ,hence its purpose differed not only from the more general instruction of the usual technical institution1 but also from those schools which offered specific training in one trade 7such as dressmaking71 in that it 7#a7 offered help to the youngest wage-earners1 7#b7 gave the choice among many trades1 and 7#c7 held the firm conviction that the adequate preparation of successful workers requires more factors of instruction than the training for skill alone4 ,the ideals of the school were the following3 7#a7 to train a girl that she may become self-supporting2 7#b7 to furnish a training which shall enable the worker to shift from one occupation to another allied occupation1 i4 e41 elasticity2 7#c7 to train a girl to understand her relation to her employer1 to her fellow-worker1 and to her product2 7#d7 to train a girl to value health and to know how to keep and improve it2 7#e7 to train a girl to utilize her former education in such necessary business processes as belong to her workroom2 7#f7 to develop a better woman while making a successful worker2 7#g7 to teach the community at large how best to accomplish such training1 i4 e41 to serve as a model whose advice and help would facilitate the founding of the best kind of schools for the lowest rank of women workers4 ,in other words1 the ,manhattan ,trade ,school aimed to find a way 7#a7 to improve the worker1 physically1 mentally1 morally1 and financially2 7#b7 to better the conditions of labor in the workroom2 7#c7 to raise the character of the industries and the conditions of the homes1 and 7#d7 to show that such education could be practically undertaken by public instruction4 ,the four aims are really one1 for the better workers should improve the product1 make higher wages1 react advantageously on the industrial situation and on the home1 and the course of instruction formulated to accomplish this end would help in the further introduction of such training4 ,it was not expected that immature girls of fourteen or fifteen years of age would1 immediately on entering the market1 make large salaries or be broad-minded citizens4 ,the hope was to give them a foundation which would enable them to adapt themselves to situations best fitted to their abilities and to make possible a steady advance toward better occupations1 wages1 and living4 ,in order to do this1 each girl on entering the school must be regarded as having capacity for some special occupation4 ,this aptitude must be discovered that she may be placed where she can attain her highest efficiency as rapidly as possible4 ,she must be treated individually1 not as one of a class4 ,her own efforts must be awakened1 her handicaps1 such as inadequate health and unadaptable education1 must be removed1 and her training proceed in a way to give her possession of her powers4 ,conditions among the ,workers ,the conditions of life among many of the wage-earners of ,new ,york ,city are1 briefly stated1 as follows3 ,thousands of families are so poor that the children must go to work the moment the compulsory school years are over4 ,in #ahig1 #ad1ijj boys and girls dropped from the fifth school grade1 most of them going to work from necessity more or less pressing4 ,to rise to important positions in factories1 workrooms1 or department stores will require a practical combination of any needed craft with the ability to utilize their school education in rapid deductions1 business letters1 accounts1 and trade transactions4 ,the public school offers such children a general education which will be completed in the eighth grade1 but the majority leave before that time4 ,for varying reasons1 such as their foreign birth1 irregular attendance1 the impossibility of much personal attention in the crowded classes of a great city1 poor conditions of health1 and the desire of the pupils to escape the routine of school as soon as the law will allow1 the greater number of them1 who go early into trade1 have not had a satisfactory education for helping them in their working life4 ,year after year are they found wanting1 and yet young workers still come from the schools at fourteen with poor health1 little available hand skill1 unprepared to write business letters or to express themselves clearly either by tongue or pen1 uninterested in the daily news except in personal or tragic events1 unaware of municipal conditions affecting them1 ignorant of the simple terms of business life1 and with their arithmetic unavailable for use1 even in the simple fundamental processes when complicated with details of trade4 ,the mechanical processes1 therefore1 which they do know are now useless unless they can first think out the problem4 ,these boys and girls have no regret at leaving the schools1 and are1 as a rule1 glad to get to work4 ,the tragedy of life1 however1 begins when they become wage-earners1 for they are only fitted for unskilled and poorly paid positions4 ,a little fourteen-year-old girl finds it difficult to obtain a satisfactory occupation in the teeming workrooms of ,new ,york4 ,she1 or some member of her family1 eagerly searches the advertising sheet of one of the daily papers4 ,most of the ,wants are entirely beyond her crude powers to supply4 ,an unskilled worker is perhaps desired in some business house1 but the applicant finds that hundreds of other girls are flocking to obtain the same position1 and her chance is too remote for hope4 ,or perhaps1 after weary days of wandering about from place to place1 she is recommended to the boss of some shop1 and finds herself in the midst of machines which rush forward at #d1jjj or more stitches a minute4 ,she assists a busy worker on men's shirts1 her duty being to pin parts together1 to finish off1 or to run errands4 ,from early morning to late afternoon1 with an interval for lunch1 she must be ready to lend a hand4 ,she can get at best but #b4ej or #c4jj per week4 ,no rise is possible in this shop unless she can work well on a machine4 ,her fellow-workers are too busy to teach her1 for each moment's pause means reduction in their little wage4 ,perhaps she does persist and finally can control a machine4 ,by learning to do one thing rapidly she can obtain a better wage1 but two or even more years in trade often pass before she can earn five dollars a week4 ,after several seasons spent in doing the same process thousands of times1 her desire for new work becomes deadened1 and she is afraid to attempt anything different from her one set task4 ,she usually refuses to try more advanced work1 even if offered a good salary while she is learning1 for she has lost her ability to push ahead4 ,in general1 it may be said that the untrained girl has to take the best place she can find1 without reference to her ability1 her physical condition1 or her inclination4 ,the most desirable trades are seldom open to her1 for they require workers of experience1 or1 at least1 those who have had recognized instruction4 ,even if a green girl enters a skilled trade1 she cannot rise easily in it1 and is apt to be dropped out at the first slack season4 ,the sort of positions open to her have usually little future1 as they are isolated occupations that do not lead to more advanced work4 ,illustrations of these employments are wrapping braid1 sorting silk1 running errands1 tying fringe1 taking out and putting in buttons in a laundry1 dipping candy1 assorting lamps1 making cigarettes1 tending a machine1 and tying up packages4 ,these young1 unskilled girls wander from one of these occupations to another2 their salaries1 never running high1 rise and fall according to the need felt for the worker1 and not because her increasing ability is a factor in her trade life4 ,after several years spent in the market1 she is little better off than at her entrance4 ,some ,difficulties of ,organization ,it was to relieve this serious situation that the ,manhattan ,trade ,school was founded4 ,it began its work in the face of great discouragements4 ,employers were prejudiced against such instruction1 for girls trained in former technical schools had not given satisfaction in the workrooms4 ,the parents of the pupils felt that they could not sacrifice themselves further than the end of the compulsory school years1 but must then send their children into wage-earning positions4 ,it was impossible to obtain state or municipal aid1 and it was known that the experiment must be costly1 for3 7#a7 ,a trade school must be open all the year for day classes1 and for night work when needed 7schools usually are open from eight to ten months74 7#b7 ,the work must be done on correct materials1 which are often expensive and perishable2 but pupils are too poor to provide them1 therefore the school must plan to do so4 7#c7 ,the supervisors must be well educated1 with a broad-minded view of industry1 capable of original thought1 and having a practical knowledge of trade requirement 7women of such caliber can always command the best salaries74 ,the teachers and forewomen also must combine teaching ability with competence in their workrooms2 but as the market wishes a similar class of service and gives excellent wages to obtain it1 the school must offer a like or even a larger amount4 7#d7 ,teachers of highly skilled industries are expert1 usually1 in but the one occupation1 such as straw hat making by electric machine or jewelry box making2 consequently1 even if the student body is small1 the teaching force can seldom be reduced without cutting off an entire department or a trade4 ,a trade school differs from the high school in this particular1 for in the latter1 when necessary1 two or more academic subjects can be taught by the same instructor4 ,another difficulty confronting the school at the beginning was1 that while numerous occupations in ,new ,york are open to women1 there was reason to think that some of these were not well adapted to them4 ,little was known at that time of the trades offering opportunities for good wages1 steady rise to better positions1 satisfactory sanitary conditions1 and moderate hours of labor2 of the physical effect of many of the popular occupations2 of the specific requirements of each kind of employment2 of the effect of the working girls in their workrooms and in their homes2 of their health and how to improve it2 of the needs and wishes of the employers2 of the relation of the ,trade ,union to trade instruction1 and of labor legislation already operative or which should be furthered4 ,before deciding on courses of instruction in the ,manhattan ,trade ,school some accurate knowledge of these facts had to be obtained4 ,selection of ,trades ,the selection of definite trades was made after five months of investigation in the factories1 workrooms1 and department stores of ,new ,york ,city4 ,in general1 it can be said of the occupations chosen that they employ large numbers of women2 require expert workers2 training for them is difficult to obtain2 there is chance within them for rise to better positions2 the wages are good1 and favorable conditions1 both physical and moral1 prevail in the workrooms4 ,some trades employing women were rejected1 as they failed to meet necessary requirements1 while others were not chosen1 as there was little chance in them to rise on account of men's trades intervening4 ,slack seasons occurring in many otherwise good employments were considered1 and plans were made whereby the worker could be enabled to shift to another allied trade when her own was slack4 ,if a girl gains complete control of her tool she can adapt herself to other occupations in which it is used with less difficulty than she can change to a trade requiring another tool4 ,women's industries1 to a great extent1 center around the skilled use of a few tools4 ,these tools were selected as centers of the school activities1 and the connected trades were radiated from them4 ,the most skilled occupations were found to require the use of the sewing machine1 foot and electric power1 the paint brush1 the paste brush1 and the needle4 ,statistics show that teaching the use of this last tool will affect over one-half of the women wage-earners of ,new ,york1 of whom there are at least #cgj1jjj4 ,in addition to the general scheme of fitting a worker so that she may take up another allied occupation in slack seasons1 specific training for this purpose is given to those students who choose trades where the busy season is short and of frequent recurrence4 ,trade ,courses ,the curriculum includes instruction in the following trades2 the courses are short and the teaching is in trade lines3 ,i4 ,use of electric power sewing machines4 #a4 ,general ,operating--7cheaper variety of work--seasonal2 fair wages4 ,better grade of work--year round1 fair and good wages1 piece or week work73 ,shirtwaists1 children's dresses 7cloth and cotton71 boys' waists1 infants' wear1 children's clothing1 women's underwear1 fancy petticoats1 kimonos and dressing sacques4 #b4 ,special ,machines--7seasonal to year round work1 depending on kind and demand1 wages good73 ,lace stitch1 hemstitching1 buttonhole1 embroidery 7hand and ,bonnaz71 and scalloping4 #c4 ,dressmaking ,operating--7year round1 wages good73 ,lingerie1 fancy waists and suits4 #d4 ,straw ,sewing--7excellent wages for a short season1 but the worker can then return to good wages in general operating73 ,women's and men's hats4 ,,ii4 ,use of the needle and foot power sewing machines4 #a4 ,dress and ,garment ,making--7seasons nine to eleven months1 and fair to good wages73 ,uniforms and aprons1 white work and simple white embroidery1 gymnasium and swimming suits 7wholesale and custom71 lingerie1 dress embroidery1 dressmaking 7plain and fancy74 #b4 ,millinery--7short seasonal work1 low wages1 difficult for the average young worker to rise73 ,trimmings and frame making4 #c4 ,lampshade and ,candleshade ,making--7seasonal work1 fair pay74 ,this trade supplements the ,millinery4 ,,iii4 ,use of paste and glue3 #a4 ,sample mounting 7virtually year work1 fair wages74 #b4 ,sample book covers1 labeling1 tissue paper novelties and decorations 7seasonal and year round work1 good wages74 #c4 ,novelty work 7year round work1 changed within workroom to meet demand1 wages good74 #d4 ,jewelry and silverware case making 7year round work1 wages good74 ,,iv4 ,use of brush and pencil 7year round work1 good wages73 ,special elementary art trades1 perforating and stamping1 costume sketching1 photograph and slide retouching4 ,note4 ,year round work1 in general1 includes a holiday of longer or shorter duration1 usually without pay4 ,entrance ,plans ,the school is open throughout the year in order to train girls whenever they come--the summer months being slack in most trades are especially desirable for instruction4 ,the tuition is free1 and in cases of extreme necessity a committee gives ,students' ,aid1 in proportion to the need4 ,entrance to day classes for girls who are from fourteen to seventeen years of age and who can show their working papers or be able to produce documentary evidence of age1 if under sixteen1 can occur any week4 ,each girl who enters1 after selecting her trade1 is given a typewritten paper showing the possible steps of advance in her chosen course4 ,she takes this home in order that the family may know what is before her4 ,she can by special effort or by outside study lessen the length of her training4 ,the first month in the school is a test time4 ,if the girl shows the needed qualities she is allowed to continue4 ,during the month of trial her instructors decide what she needs and if her chosen trade is the best for her4 ,the right is reserved to make a complete change if her health will not stand the one she desires1 if she has no ability for it1 or if she gives evidence of special talent in another direction4 ,industrial ,intelligence ,every student has1 as a part of her trade education1 such academic work1 art1 and physical training as seems necessary2 when she passes certain standards she is then allowed to devote full time to her selected occupation4 ,it is not possible for a worker who has skill with the hand and no education to back it up to rise far in her trade4 ,there is many a tragedy in the market of the woman whose poor early education prevented her from getting ahead4 ,accurate expression1 whether oral or written1 the use of arithmetic in simple trade transactions or detailed accounts1 the ability to grasp the important factors in any situation and then to go to work without waste of time or motion1 are required for positions of trust and for supervision in any workroom4 ,it was soon discovered that the girls entering the school know arithmetic in an abstract way1 but are at sea when asked to meet the ordinary trade problems4 ,they are inaccurate in reading and copying2 they cannot write a letter of application1 conduct correspondence1 make out checks1 or keep simple accounts4 ,they are ignorant of the laws already made which concern them and of their own relation to future laws4 ,they have no ideals in their trade life4 ,they need to see the relation of their chosen trade to the country1 of their work to their employer's success1 the effect they may have in bringing about a better feeling between the employer and the wage-earner4 ,a practical1 immediately available business education is absolutely essential to make workwomen of executive ability4 ,therefore specific trade instruction in arithmetic1 ,english1 history1 geography1 and civics was planned to supplement and enrich the trade courses4 ,steady progress has been made in determining the kind of cultural trade instruction which will best assist such young wage-earners4 ,a new field in practical education had to be opened1 and subject matter which could be of service in the workrooms selected from it4 ,the many trades of the school had to be studied in order to know their needs4 ,the work has grown more valuable each year and has proved itself to be a truly necessary part of the curriculum4 ,a concrete evidence of its worth is the fact that many of the girls in slack seasons have taken clerical positions and have been complimented on their grasp of the subject1 their orderliness1 their ability to think1 and their reliability4 ,naturally all departments unite to develop character in the students1 but the ,academic ,department feels this to be a special aim4 ,pleasure in the subject of instruction1 followed by mental and moral improvement1 has indicated clearly that the academic dullness which is shown at entrance comes frequently from lack of motive in former studies4 ,the interest is all the more encouraging as there are many handicaps in the teaching1 for the students enter at any time1 are graded by the trades they select1 and are placed in the market as quickly as possible2 hence the work cannot be uniform in its advance4 ,nor is the academic work a help to the girls in their business life only1 for such subjects as the keeping of accounts1 the consideration of the cost of living1 and the value and price of materials are of direct use also in home life4 ,trade ,art ,instruction ,courses in ,trade ,art were also organized as a fundamental part of the instruction4 ,each trade has its own art1 and the school has tried to adapt the work in the studios to each different occupation4 ,it recognizes that the art applied in dressmaking differs from that in millinery1 and this again from that required for decorating jewelry boxes and calendars4 ,it consequently offers each student the kind of elementary art training needed in her trade4 ,the time is too short to develop designers1 but it does help a girl to be more exact1 resourceful1 and useful in her workroom1 and often enables her to make a higher wage4 ,a worker who can place trimming1 adapt designs to new purposes1 stamp patterns1 draw copies of garments1 and combine color attractively is especially desirable in her chosen employment4 ,health ,the young wage-earner of ,new ,york is much handicapped by her poor physical condition2 heredity1 poor habits of life1 and unsanitary homes show their effects upon her4 ,the girls who come to the school are young enough to remedy many of their defects4 ,in a few months they will be in positions demanding eight or more hours a day1 in which they must strain every nerve and bend all of their energies to meet the standard brought about by trade competition4 ,the ,physical ,department of the school studies the health of each girl and trains her to care adequately for it4 ,the specific treatment needed by some of the students takes them many hours a week from their department work4 ,while this has its disadvantages1 it is felt to be more important to improve the physical condition than to develop skill alone when the health is too poor to stand the strain of exacting positions4 ,it is often difficult at first to persuade parents that such close attention to health is necessary4 ,the results1 however1 in the majority of cases have proved the wisdom of this procedure4 ,immediately after entering the school and being assigned to a department each girl must report to the school physician4 ,beginning with the family history1 a complete record of all the important events relating to her physical life is taken4 ,she is closely questioned as to all bodily functions1 and a careful record is kept of irregularities4 ,eyes1 ears1 teeth1 nose1 throat1 and feet are likewise examined1 and measurements are taken of height1 weight1 and the principal expansions4 ,after the examination1 instruction as to treatment is given1 if any is needed4 ,the work in the gymnasium has three purposes3 invigorative1 reactive1 and corrective4 ,every girl who is not restricted on account of physical defects takes the prescribed gymnastic work4 ,nor has this a physical effect only1 for through the active games such qualities as judgment and accuracy1 self-control1 and the harmonious working with others are developed4 ,slow1 uncertain1 vague movements denote lack of mental quickness and strength4 ,motor activity1 rightly directed1 leads to poise of mind as well as of body4 ,these girls live mostly in crowded localities of the city1 where free exercise is unknown4 ,the school aims1 as far as possible1 to supply the lack of wholesome outdoor life and give joyous active exercise4 ,talks on hygiene are a regular part of the work and aim3 7#a7 to give each girl a knowledge of her body and of its functions which will enable her to care for her health in an intelligent manner2 7#b7 to show her the relation of food and its preparation to her physical condition2 7#c7 to establish in her mind ideals of correct living which can be made practical in her surroundings2 and 7#d71 recognizing the right and desire of every girl for amusement1 to create a love for wholesome and simple pleasures that will take the place of the too strenuous and often unwise recreations which tend to undermine the health of the girl who works4 ,the ,lunchroom and the ,cooking ,classes ,from the opening of the school1 hot soup1 hot chocolate1 or cold milk had been served daily1 at two cents a cup1 to those wishing to supplement the cold lunch which they had brought from their homes4 ,the teachers also had an opportunity of buying a simple1 hot meal which was prepared by one of their number1 assisted by students who aided in the preparation1 serving1 and clearing away4 ,at first the average girl felt she could not give much time to her trade training1 consequently such time had to be devoted to making her able to command a living wage4 ,the hope1 however1 that in the future the opportunity would come for offering increased domestic training was never forgotten4 ,the opening at the school of a temporary workroom for unemployed women during the financial stress of #aijh provided them with regular work and pay4 ,it was advisable also to serve nourishing lunches daily to these underfed workers4 ,there was already a simple lunchroom in the basement of the school1 containing such bare necessities as plain tables on horses1 long wooden benches1 a gas stove with four burners1 a few cooking utensils1 and a closet filled with inexpensive china4 ,the complete cost of equipment had been #cjj4 ,the school was now1 however1 face to face with the need to feed daily more than #ejj people--teachers1 workers1 and students--and yet no additional money could be spent for equipment4 ,the necessity was so great1 however1 that in addition to the usual lunches a hot1 nourishing meal was given daily to the hundred workers in the temporary workroom1 for which they paid one-half of the price of materials4 ,with this inauguration of regular cooking it seemed especially desirable to take the opportunity of training at least some of the students in the selection1 care1 and preparation of food4 ,the majority of these girls will be the mothers of the next generation1 and yet they know nothing of food values or food preparation4 ,this is evident from the daily lunches they bring and from their discussions in the class on hygiene4 ,on the other hand1 girls who can remain but a few months in the school have a serious need to face1 that of self-support1 for the wage for unskilled girls 7#c4jj7 is not sufficient to live on with decency4 ,the physical1 mental1 and moral future of these young girls demands that they should be able to make more than this pittance4 ,in the few months during which the majority are in attendance both a trade training and a knowledge of cooking cannot be given1 therefore the former must take the precedence4 ,the school has been able to prove1 however1 that girls educated there can command a fair wage in trade1 but that a longer time given to this training will enable them to obtain better positions and salaries4 ,hence an increasing number have been willing to remain longer1 giving even a year or more to preparation4 ,it was with this latter class that the time was ripe to offer some training in lunchroom cookery which could teach them what could be procured at low prices and yet be nourishing2 how to prepare food at home1 and how to use the hot table often found in an up-to-date factory4 ,for this purpose1 therefore1 some simple additional equipment was installed and a daily menu was offered1 comprising inexpensive1 attractive1 wholesome dishes1 at the lowest possible cost4 ,many of the students care for so little variety in food that all of the necessary elements for building strong1 healthy bodies are not supplied1 hence they are under-nourished4 ,they require encouragement to even try the food which is essential for improving their physical condition4 ,the girls have taken great interest in their lunchroom cookery4 ,they appreciate the inexpensive menus and admire the simple table decorations4 ,gradually they have given up spending their few pennies for poor fruit1 cake1 or candy at some cheap shop1 and now purchase nourishing dishes cooked by the students at the school4 ,the cooking course connects directly with the talks on hygiene4 ,the plan of work is the following3 7#a7 ,twenty girls are chosen at one time4 ,these work in two groups of ten each1 and for six weeks have daily one-hour lessons4 ,this gives them thirty lessons1 which is almost equivalent to what the public school offers in a year1 but1 being concentrated into daily work and practical use in the lunchroom1 is of equal1 if not greater1 efficacy4 7#b7 ,the students set the tables1 cook a definite part of the lunch1 dish the articles1 prepare the counters1 sell the various dishes1 keep and report sales1 and clear the counters afterward4 ,the groups alternate in order that preparing food1 watching its progress1 and taking it from the stove may be done by all with a minimum loss of time from their trade instruction4 7#c7 ,the selection of girls to take the course is made from 7a7 those who can remain long enough in the school to combine trade training with the simple cooking course1 7b7 those who have such poor health that a knowledge of what to eat and how to cook it is the first consideration1 and 7c7 those who are already little housekeepers in their homes1 as their mothers are incapacitated or dead4 ,after several months of experience it was felt that the six weeks of constant practice was well worth while4 ,more elaborate courses of cookery would demand a more thorough kitchen equipment1 entailing much expense1 and would require students to remain a longer time in school4 ,with the present arrangement they learn the most important cooking processes in a very practical way1 and discuss the relation of food to themselves and to their families4 ,trade ,orders ,the handwork in the various departments falls into three grades3 #a4 ,practice work1 which not being up to the standard is ripped up and used again4 #b4 ,seconds2 fair work1 not quite up to the school standard for trade work4 ,this is sold at cost to the students or to needy institutions4 #c4 ,trade work2 up to the standard4 ,this is sold to the trade or to private customers at regular market prices4 ,this feature of the school work1 entailing1 as it does1 the taking of many varieties of orders from the outside factories and workrooms1 has proved itself to be an important educational factor4 ,after six years of experience in utilizing orders from the outside workrooms1 it can be said that this part of the instruction serves the following purposes3 7#a7 ,it provides the students with adequate experience on classes of material used in the best workrooms2 these girls could not purchase such materials and the school could not afford to buy them for practice4 7#b7 ,the ordinary conditions in both the wholesale and the custom trade are thus made a fundamental part of the instruction4 ,reality of this kind helps the supervisors to judge the product from its trade value 7amateur work will thus be rejected71 and the teaching from the kind of workers turned out4 ,through the business relation the students quickly feel the necessity of good finish1 rapid work1 and responsibility to deliver on time4 7#c7 ,the orders bring in a money return and thus aid the school in the expense for material4 7#d7 ,the businesslike appearance of the shops at work on the orders and the experience trade has had with the product have increased the confidence of employers of labor in the ability of the school to train practical workers for the trades4 ,the school is constantly urged by trade to increase its order work1 but its unfaltering policy is to take only the amount needed for educational purposes4 7#e7 ,the business organization and management required in the adequate conduct of a large order department can itself be utilized for educational purposes1 and has its value for training students who show promise of becoming good stock clerks4 ,trade workers are employed in the business shops connected with the various departments4 ,these assistants have proved their value in making the best utilization of the order work4 ,they facilitate the completion of the work on time and help train the girls to feel responsible for their share of it4 ,as the students work slowly at first1 and as their hours in the shops are interrupted by other studies1 the trade workers1 when necessary1 continue with or complete the articles while the girls are absent4 ,they make possible the tradelike organization of the shops1 for each one has around her her own little groups of assistants1 and she teaches them while she also works4 ,constant repetition of the same process ceases1 after a time1 to be valuable to a student1 hence her time must not be wasted by too simple work or by unnecessary details4 ,it often happens also that an article may require expert work in its completion which the students cannot yet do2 the trade workers select for each girl the process which will be of value to her1 and then do the work the students cannot do or should not do4 ,the following lists will show the class of orders which have been demanded by trade and turned out by the school3 ,operating ,department ,orders3 #a4 ,trade ,work3 ,ribbon run on webbing for suspenders1 infants' dresses--eight different styles1 children's aprons--two different styles1 hemstitching and embroidery for yokes1 ruffling--hem and hemstitched1 faggoting4 #b4 ,individual ,custom ,orders3 ,dressing sacques1 aprons 7kitchen1 gingham1 and work71 gymnasium suits1 waists1 children's dresses1 corset covers1 drawers1 skirts and chemise1 sheets1 pillowslips1 curtains1 straw hats1 fancy petticoats1 kimonos1 handkerchiefs1 fancy neckwear1 infants' outfits1 boys' waists1 quilting1 hemstitching by yard1 silk waists and dresses hemstitched1 tucking by yard1 waists1 collars1 cuffs1 and cloth embroidered1 initials on linen and monograms on saddle cloths1 ruffling by yard4 #c4 ,order ,work for ,other ,departments3 ,dressmaking3 ,machine work on nightgowns1 corset covers1 drawers1 combination suits1 petticoats1 kimonos1 gymnasium bloomers1 swimming suits1 buttonholes1 hemstitching on silk skirts1 dresses1 waists2 ,bonnaz embroidery on dresses1 waists4 ,millinery3 ,veils hemstitched4 ,art3 ,pencil and brush cases4 ,office3 ,coats and overalls for janitors employed in school4 ,dressmaking ,department ,orders3 ,aprons1 petticoats1 maids' dresses2 machine-made underwear2 collars and neckwear2 nurses' uniforms2 swimming1 bathing1 and gymnasium suits2 children's and baby clothes2 fine handmade underwear2 plain shirtwaists1 fine waists1 afternoon gowns1 street suits1 evening gowns1 cloth suits tailored4 ,pasting and ,novelty ,orders3 ,mounting suspender webbing1 mounting corset samples1 pasting suspender tabs and sockets1 case making4 ,desk sets1 lampshades1 and candleshades4 ,art ,department ,orders3 #a4 ,trade ,order ,work3 ,stamping1 perforating1 coloring fashion plates1 stencil cutting4 #b4 ,custom ,work3 ,stenciling curtains1 scarfs1 table covers1 sofa pillows2 designing patterns for embroidery for table covers1 doilies1 bags1 buttons1 shirtwaists1 skirts1 parasols1 and chiffon scarfs4 #c4 ,order ,work for ,other ,departments3 ,decorating book covers1 desk sets1 boxes1 dress trimmings--panels1 lapels1 vests2 collars and cuffs1 insertions for hand and machine2 banding for hats1 letters1 monograms3 designs for doilies1 scarfs1 curtains1 work-bags4 ,,placement ,,bureau ,from the first the school made some provision for placing its pupils satisfactorily in the trades for which they are trained4 ,originally the heads of departments attended to it1 each for her own students1 but as the school grew and the department work increased this method ceased to be practical4 ,an arrangement was made1 therefore1 with the ,alliance ,employment ,bureau to place the girls of the ,manhattan ,trade ,school when they were ready to leave the school or whenever they applied for help thereafter4 ,this was a most helpful connection when the work was beginning1 but it was understood that when the school reached the point in its development where the volume of business was great enough1 and other conditions warranted it1 a ,placement ,bureau should be opened in the school itself4 ,this long-cherished idea went into operation in ,october1 #aijh1 when a ,placement ,secretary was engaged and the school bureau was opened4 ,this plan has already proved advantageous4 ,in the first place a bureau so situated can1 by keeping in constant touch with the departments1 obtain intimate and detailed information about the character1 the work1 the special aptitudes1 and the physique of each girl4 ,such data are extremely valuable in making wise placements1 but are difficult of access for an outside agency4 ,in the second place such a school bureau1 open to graduates1 tends to bring them occasionally to it1 and thus strengthens their interest in and loyalty to the school by giving a practical reality to their connection with it4 ,aims ,the aims and working plans of the ,placement ,bureau are the following3 7#a7 ,to secure suitable positions for girls leaving the school--those forced out by poverty as well as those who have really completed their courses4 ,the problem is to get the square peg into the square hole1 and it is solved by having a very intimate knowledge of each peg1 and by knowing of as large a variety of holes as possible from which to choose4 7#b7 ,to be a means of connection and communication between the school and the trades1 on the one hand1 and the school and its former pupils on the other4 7#c7 ,to gather data about trade conditions that shall be helpful to the several departments1 or in deciding school policies4 7#d7 ,to build up a series of records that shall be of general sociological value as well as of immediate use for school purposes4 ,kinds and ,methods of ,work ,in connection with the placement itself there are four lines of activity3 #a4 ,interviews in the office1 when girls come in to apply for positions1 and when employers ask for workers4 ,much valuable data as to the experiences of the girls who have been some time in the trade have been gathered in this way4 ,in the case of the employer1 if he is not already familiar with the school1 an effort is made to induce him 7or her7 to go through it4 #b4 ,trade ,visits of investigation4 ,it is the policy of the ,bureau not to place a girl in any establishment until it has been visited1 unless it is one already well known to the school1 in which case the visit may follow instead of preceding the placement4 ,these visits are often made upon the request of employers or in response to advertisements1 if1 as sometimes happens1 a girl wishes to be placed and the employers already known do not need additional help4 #c4 ,following up4 ,after the girls are placed it is necessary to keep track of them4 ,in order to do this satisfactorily1 blanks have been printed in two different forms1 one for the employer and the other for the worker4 ,the former asks about the quality of the girl's work 7whether it is satisfactory1 and if not1 why not7 and about her wages4 ,the latter asks the girl to report on her work1 wages1 and shop conditions4 ,by this system the ,placement ,secretary is able to keep in close touch with the students who have been placed1 and to hear and act upon complaints from either employer or girl with a promptness that often has the result of establishing the worker in a good place or1 occasionally1 rescuing her from a poor one4 ,employers are almost uniformly prompt and courteous in returning the reports1 and all but a very small percentage of the students are equally responsive4 ,in cases where a girl is not heard from1 the ,students' ,aid ,secretary makes a personal visit to her home4 #d4 ,keeping of ,records4 ,card catalogues are kept1 giving the full data obtainable in each case3 7#a7 for girls applying for positions2 7#b7 for girls placed2 7#c7 for employers visited2 7#d7 for employers applying or worth investigating1 but not yet visited4 ,all data from employers and girls which have been obtained from the blanks before mentioned or from other sources are recorded on the cards4 ,the ,placement ,bureau1 in addition to its specific work1 performs certain services for the general benefit of the school4 ,data are obtained as to the conditions of work and wage in certain trades and the length of training advisable in others4 ,advice from the trade is often needed in one or another of the departments1 and through the ,bureau's acquaintance with employers1 managers1 or foremen and forewomen1 it is able to ascertain and report their expert opinion4 ,it is also possible to induce some of these busy people to come and view the problem in the light of conditions at the school as well as in their own business4 ,general ,results ,although the ,placement ,bureau is still in its infancy1 some results may be recorded4 ,it is already in touch with some #gjj employers1 about #eej having been personally visited4 ,the table below gives the facts as to placements in former years1 and may be interesting for comparison4 ,,girls ,,placed ,,and ,,reported ,,upon ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,by ,self or ,by ,alliance ,school4 ,employment ,total4 ,bureau4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- #aijb #j #j #j #aijc #ci #g #df #aijd #eb #cf #hh #aije #bi #fa #ij #aijf #bb #ha #ajc #aijg #aj #gg #hg #aijh #aai #ci #aeh #aiji ,by school #aeg #a #aeh ---------------------------------- #dbh #cjb #gcj ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,this refers merely to the original or first placement of a girl4 ,the total of re-placements for #aiji was an additional #bcj1 including those of many former pupils who had heretofore placed themselves or been placed by the ,alliance ,employment ,bureau4 ,the crucial question of wages is one that is extremely difficult to deal with in brief4 ,the accompanying table gives a very general statement as to the range of wages obtained by graduates and the future possibilities in their trades1 and read in the light of the comment below it is as specifically accurate as any summary can be4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,trade4 ,wages ,when ,after ,two to ,future ,first ,placed4 ,five ,years4 ,possibilities4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ #aijc #aiji ,dressmaking #c to #e #d to #f #f to #ac #be or own establishment ,millinery #b4ej to #d #d #e to #ae #ab to #be or own establishment ,operating #c to #f #d to #aa #f to #be #ae to #dj ,novelty #d to #e #d to #i;,a #f to #aa #ah to #be ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ ,art since #aijg #e to #h #d to #g #g to #ae #bj to #cj ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ ,the column for #aiji shows that at last a minimum wage of #d4jj has been established for all the trades named1 even ,millinery4 ,there are exceptions1 but they are almost always due to some special disability on the part of the girl1 and do not fairly affect a statement regarding the wage for girls of normal capacity1 who have done satisfactory work during their course4 ,the small percentage of pupils who fall below #d4jj for their initial wage are those who either did not complete the school course1 or who did poor work1 or who are subnormal mentally or handicapped physically1 or can work only an eight-hour day because they are under sixteen4 ,it is true that when they are obliged to start on piece-work instead of a week-wage their earnings may fall below our minimum for a short time1 but the first week or two is in that case not usually a fair test of the girl's training or ability4 ,some little time is necessary for the readjustment involved in the change from school to workroom1 and especially for attaining the speed necessary to earn a fair wage on trade piece-rates4 ,the compensating advantage is that when she does begin to make good her improvement is usually registered in her earnings more quickly and accurately than it would be by the safe but slowly advancing week-work4 ,if after two weeks1 however1 the girl is earning less than #d4jj1 and thinks she never can make out there1 she is given an opportunity to change her place4 ,but very often there is a sudden jump in earnings after ten days or so1 as the girl gains confidence and speed4 7,one pupil earned #c4ig her first week on buttonholes1 and over #g4jj the second47 ,another point to be considered in connection with the wage is the length of the season and the duration of any one place4 ,the comparatively steady work and regular1 if small1 advance in the dressmaking1 for instance1 will often counterbalance the larger week-wage or piece-work earnings of the trades where the season is short or the positions of uncertain duration4 ,on the rate of advance in wage the ,bureau is as yet too young to make any general statements4 ,students' ,aid ,on account of the extreme poverty in the families of many of the students1 some system of aid has always been necessary4 ,the manner of giving it has changed1 however1 that it may be free from all tendency to pauperize or to deprive the recipient of self-respecting effort4 ,at first it took the form of a scholarship1 paid at the school every week1 in equal amounts1 to each student4 ,a few months' experience1 however1 showed that it would be better to require a month's apprenticeship without pay4 ,if after that the girl was allowed to continue her course1 she was given a dollar a week during her second month4 ,each month thereafter the amount was increased according to the skill and good spirit which were evident in her work4 ,the maximum amount a student could receive in one year was #ajj4 ,early in the second year it became clear that a still more radical change was advisable1 and a plan was adopted whereby the need of the girl's family became the only basis upon which money was given4 ,a committee was formed1 whose membership was composed principally of workers from the leading social settlements4 ,each applicant for aid was referred to the member of the committee living nearest her home4 ,an investigation was made by the settlement worker1 and aid was given in proportion to the necessity1 varying in amount from car fare to the equivalent of a small wage4 ,the girl went weekly to the settlement for the money4 ,in this way the aid was separated as far as possible from the school atmosphere1 and it was made clear to the girls and their families that the money was in no sense pay for work4 ,as indicative of this change in viewpoint1 the term ,scholarship was replaced by that of ,students' ,aid4 ,in addition to its other advantages1 the new method reduced the cost for aid to less than one-half of its original proportion4 ,since this time the aim has been always the same--to aid the girl handicapped by poverty so that she might prepare herself for efficient wage-earning4 ,a member of the school staff is secretary of the ,students' ,aid ,committee1 and she knows personally every applicant wishing aid1 and makes the initial visits and investigations4 ,this plan has proved advantageous in making a closer connection between the school and the home1 and in securing a more uniform standard of relief4 ,the ,students' ,aid ,committee consists at present of representatives from sixteen settlements1 who meet twice a month to discuss and decide upon the merit of each applicant4 ,if aid is granted1 the girl is assigned to the settlement nearest her home and goes there weekly for her money4 ,an envelope showing the amount due the girl is sent from the school to the settlement worker1 and on this is indicated any absence or tardiness4 ,it is one of the duties of the member of the committee to inquire the reasons for any irregularity in attendance1 and1 if necessary1 to report to the parent4 ,in addition1 each settlement worker renders valuable service by giving friendly oversight to the girls and families in her group1 by doing as much for their welfare as time will allow1 and by reporting any unusual conditions to the ,students' ,aid ,secretary4 ,students are at times sent to the school for instruction with a request for aid from some charitable institution1 church1 hospital1 school1 or settlement which knows and is interested in the family2 but1 in general1 a girl needing financial help comes without such recommendations1 and consequently a more thorough investigation of the case is necessary4 ,inquiry is always made at first of the ,charity ,organization ,society1 in order to learn whether her family has received or is receiving other relief4 ,the trial month without aid gives time for the gathering of facts about the family1 and for a test of the girl's ability and character4 ,aid is never promised to a girl before her admission4 ,a useful method has been worked out for determining the amount of aid which may be given in any one case4 ,the total amount of the family income is obtained1 and from it are deducted the fixed expenses for rent1 insurance1 and car fare4 ,from the remainder the per capita income is found which must provide for all other expenses1 that is1 for each person's share of food1 clothing1 light1 fuel1 medicine1 and all incidentals4 ,it was estimated that a family could not maintain a decent standard of living on a per capita income of less than #a4ej a week4 ,although each case is considered on its merits1 aid is almost always given when the per capita income is less than #a4ej2 in some special cases it is granted when the income exceeds this amount4 ,the following table shows the income of the seventy-eight families that were being aided by the school on ,june #c1 #aiji4 -------------------------------------- ,weekly per ,capita ,number of ,families4 ,income4 -------------------------------------- 4#jj to 4#di #af 4#ej to 4#ii #bf #a4jj to #a4di #bj #a4ej to #a4ii #aj #b4jj to #b4di #c #b4ej to #b4ii #a #c4jj to #c4di #b -------------------------------------- ,relief given by charitable institutions has not been included in this income4 ,each girl receiving aid is told the reason for its bestowal in such a way that she will neither look upon it as money earned nor feel humiliated as a recipient of charity1 but will understand that it should mean for her an opportunity to obtain a good education4 ,it therefore is incumbent upon her to show a realization of its value by becoming a responsible and earnest worker4 ,students receiving such assistance are expected to attend regularly1 unless for excellent reasons1 and the reports from their departments must be satisfactory in regard to their work1 attitude1 and effort4 ,if a girl varies from this standard and1 after talking with her or with one of her parents1 no improvement follows1 the aid may be suspended or withdrawn4 ,improving circumstances in a family occasionally make it possible to decrease or even to give up the aid4 ,on the other hand1 it is often found necessary to ask additional assistance from special philanthropic sources when the need is very great4 ,night ,classes ,night continuation classes are a part of the aim of the school4 ,they have offered training in expert parts of the ,operating1 ,dressmaking1 ,novelty1 ,millinery1 and ,art trades4 ,the classes were well attended1 the work successful1 and continued application for the renewal of the instruction has been received4 ,this class of education requires the most skilled teachers and is consequently expensive4 ,lack of money to conduct both the day and the night work adequately has made it necessary to close the night classes temporarily4 ,there is every reason to hope1 however1 that they will be reopened in the near future1 with still greater facilities for teaching the advanced parts of the trades4 ,student ,government ,the ,student ,council concerns itself with the government of the school1 the aim being to place it as far as possible in the hands of the students4 ,it also assists in developing their sense of responsibility4 ,the ,council is composed of representatives elected from each class1 who have been chosen for their executive ability and good character4 ,they meet once a week with one of the supervisors to discuss questions of general school discipline and regulations4 ,each member is responsible for maintaining order in her class when it is not under other supervision1 for settling disputes among the girls1 and for reporting disobedience to school laws4 ,graduate and ,department ,clubs ,some form of alumn association has been in existence since the end of the first school year4 ,this important phase of the ,trade ,school work is now thoroughly organized1 and gains for us the warm coperation of those who have benefited by the instruction4 ,the ,graduate ,association includes those who have received the certificate of the school2 the department clubs1 however1 are more democratic1 and admit to membership any girl who has been in attendance4 ,these associations work together for the benefit of the school4 ,they hold frequent business as well as social meetings4 ,they plan definite ways for getting in touch with ,manhattan ,trade ,school girls who are just entering trade1 in order to help them to adjust themselves to their work and to increase in them loyalty and responsibility to the school2 for improving themselves and working girls in general by discussing topics of interest concerning their trades1 and by giving entertainments which are of real interest and value4 ,they have carried out schemes for adding to the general finances of the school or for obtaining money for special objects1 such as shower baths for the gymnasium4 ,they have given several suppers to bring the faculty and former students together1 in order to discuss informally trade and school matters4 ,,footnotes3 ,a ,this maximum is not in paste or glue work1 but in the silk lampshade trade4 ,,part ,,ii ,,representative ,,problems,b ,the organizing of a girls' trade school in any given locality necessitates the meeting of many problems of a serious nature4 ,some of these appear immediately and require consideration before a satisfactory curriculum can be developed1 but most of them are hydra-headed1 and one phase is no sooner settled than another arises4 ,attention must be given to them whenever they come if any progress is to be made in solving the question of the broadest and yet most practical education for the girl who must earn her living in trade4 ,these problems are so connected with the keenest yet most obscure social and industrial questions of the day on one hand1 and1 on the other1 with the future of the race1 that they are often very puzzling4 ,some of them can never be entirely settled1 though they can be temporarily adjusted to immediate needs4 ,the following are selected as representative4 ,direct ,trade ,training ,many schools of a domestic or technical nature have been opened in the ,united ,states1 but the instruction in them is for the home or for educational purposes rather than for business4 ,the trades1 if they are represented at all in these schools1 are general in character1 covering often many branches of an industry in a short series of lessons1 and not having the particular subdivisions and special equipment which are found at present in the regular market4 ,employers of labor have not been favorably impressed with the practical usefulness of the graduates in their workrooms4 ,as the sole reason for the existence of the ,manhattan ,trade ,school is to meet this requirement of employers1 and therefore to develop a better class of wage-earners directly adapted to trade needs1 the instruction must be in accord with methods in the shops and factories of ,new ,york ,city4 ,such specific trade education for fourteen-year-old girls was new1 and therefore the problem of organization had to be faced for the first time in ,america4 ,careful study of the workrooms and the industrial conditions of ,new ,york ,city was essential before the aims or the curriculum could be decided upon and the school could be opened for instruction4 ,furthermore1 if the training is to be kept up to date this study of trade conditions must not cease1 and readjustments of the curriculum must equal the changes taking place in the outside workrooms4 ,consequently these problems must be met repeatedly4 ,need of ,preliminary ,training ,on beginning the trade courses at the school a difficulty was discovered immediately which brought home the truth of the complaint made by trade that young workers are utterly incompetent4 ,the students coming to the school were allowed by law to enter trade1 as they had met all requirements for obtaining their working papers1 but they were not found to have sufficient foundation to begin the first simple steps at the school without some preliminary training4 ,the defects which were especially evident were3 7#a7 lack of sufficient skill with the hand2 7#b7 inability to utilize their public school academic work in practical trade problems2 7#c7 dullness in taking orders and in thinking clearly of the needs which arise2 7#d7 absence of ideals2 and 7#e7 need of knowledge of the laws of health and how to apply them4 ,preliminary1 elementary instruction in all of these subjects had1 therefore1 to be organized and given to the entering students before they could begin upon their true trade work4 ,such instruction is and will continue to be necessary unless the public elementary school arranges to give1 between the fifth and eighth grades1 a more satisfactory preparation to those who must earn their living4 ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has been obliged to give from two to eight months to elementary branches of instruction alone4 ,the kind of work needed varies constantly with the condition of the students4 ,every one requires some of it1 but many must take months of tutoring4 ,public instruction could readily give the practical academic work which the school has organized4 ,such instruction would not only directly help the pupils who must leave early to work1 but would lay a good foundation for the vocational education which is being planned for the early years of the public secondary schools4 ,vocational ,training ,as the courses at the ,manhattan ,trade ,school developed1 an intermediate phase between the preparatory work and the direct trade training took definite shape4 ,this middle ground partakes in many ways of trade processes and lays a good foundation for shop work4 ,it utilizes the early education1 gives point to it1 awakens in the student enthusiasm for her chosen trade1 and shows her that it is worth her while to work hard if she would succeed4 ,it takes from four to eight months1 according to the student's ability to meet the requirements4 ,public instruction could also develop this intermediate field to advantage for those who1 not wishing to enter the regular high school course1 would be glad to avail themselves of further practical education4 ,such occupations for women as cooking1 sewing1 garment and dressmaking1 millinery1 laundry work1 home nursing1 household administration1 care of children1 novelty work1 electric power operating1 salesmanship1 and other interesting activities can well be offered in ,vocational ,education4 ,as the student in her chosen field plans1 considers expenses1 and contrives to utilize her material she gains skill1 adaptability1 judgment1 and the true basis of criticism4 ,the world's work interests her as its meaning becomes clear through her own experiences1 and she begins to see ways to better her condition and to be a factor in the improvement of her home4 ,she appreciates the value of her early education1 and finds it worth while to think clearly and to act wisely2 she listens to instructions1 asks sensible directions1 and goes to work without waste of time4 ,the elementary and intermediate training just described1 which the school found it must give preparatory to its real trade instruction1 has proved advantageous as an introduction1 for the student can now quickly adapt herself to the work in the school shops1 as she possesses the foundation qualities needed to make the best worker4 ,she has to begin at the simplest trade work1 to be sure1 but can rise as rapidly as she shows ability4 ,she has been carefully watched by her instructors and turned gradually in the direction best fitted to her4 ,trade ,shops ,offering courses in many varieties of trade work exactly as they are found in a city like ,new ,york has many recurring difficulties1 as has been before stated4 ,the constant and rapid adaptations to fashion1 the new mechanical devices introduced1 and the labor situations are factors to be considered4 ,the management must be ready at a moment's notice to change1 increase1 or drop work according to the demands of a fickle market4 ,it would seem1 therefore1 that at present the problems of the school trade shops are of too serious and unsettled a character for adequate solution by public instruction as at present organized1 for 7#a7 it would be difficult to persuade the mass of taxpayers that added tax rates are advisable for beginning a continually altering form of education which has not yet commended itself to all employers or to all wage-earners1 and which must be more or less expensive2 7#b7 the usual public school committee man knows little of trade conditions1 and would probably be averse to allowing a school the freedom to change at will its course of study and even the very trades it teaches2 yet1 on the other hand1 if the trade school must wait for board action before altering its plans1 it would prejudice the value of its instruction1 which must be flexible if it would train its students directly for the market2 7#c7 the impossibility of obtaining its teachers from the usual waiting list and the difficulties attending the selection of a satisfactory teaching force4 ,the possibilities for offering highly specialized1 skilled work are great1 but the poverty of the students limits their time at the day school4 ,to help all girls who work1 and who wish to get ahead1 night classes have been organized from time to time1 and during the day also temporary instruction is offered to any one who has a slack time in her trade4 ,as the school is organized into trade shops1 with the same specialization as in the market1 a student can enter or be placed from almost any point4 ,this increases its usefulness but complicates its management4 ,obtaining and ,training ,teachers ,as trade instruction is new in education1 the normal schools have not begun training teachers regularly for these positions1 nor1 indeed1 are they yet prepared to do so4 ,the organizer of a trade school faces1 therefore1 a serious difficulty in obtaining instructors who are adequate to the task before them4 ,the following trade teaching staff is needed3 supervisors of the various trades2 forewomen to direct the school shops2 trade instructors to teach the various groups of students the specialized processes2 assistants to attend to minor matters in the workrooms2 art teachers1 who have had experience in designing for the various trades represented2 academic instructors who know the working world practically and can give the students a training which1 while helping them in their trades1 will broaden their knowledge of and sympathy in the world's work4 ,all of these teachers must not only have had experience in trade1 but must continually keep in touch with the methods of the outside market4 ,unsuccessful trade workers1 who often wish to teach1 or teachers who know nothing of the needs of trade workrooms1 cannot adequately prepare students for specific trade positions4 ,trade knows what it wants1 is a severe critic and an unsparing judge4 ,the trade school1 therefore1 cannot afford to rely on instructors who would be themselves unsuccessful in the market1 for the result would be certain failure in the students4 ,such specific training requires exceptional knowledge in its teaching force4 ,the usual teacher of manual training knows too little of the ways of the workrooms and is too theoretical in her instruction to be trusted to train workers who must satisfy trade demands4 ,on the other hand1 the trade worker1 good as she may be in her specialty1 seldom knows how to teach4 ,she can drive her group of workers1 but she cannot train the green hands to do more than work quickly at one thing4 ,she can make them work1 but she cannot make them better workers4 ,when she has orders to turn out1 her lifelong training makes her think of the rapid completion of the articles rather than the careful development of the students who are making them4 ,if she is not watched she will choose the girl to do a piece of work who can do it well and quickly 7but who does not need this experience71 rather than the one who should do it in order to have practice in it4 ,the problem is to find a way to unite the good teacher and the successful worker4 ,such a combination appears at rare intervals4 ,at the present time the teacher who can adequately prepare young workers for trade has to be taught while she is herself teaching4 ,she may be chosen from either the industrial or the educational field1 if she has certain qualities of mind and spirit1 but she must now make up the points she lacks1 be it experience in trade or ability to teach4 ,supervisors need special insight and capability1 as they are called upon to investigate a new and difficult field1 to select from it the subjects needed1 and after that to organize education of a most practical kind4 ,they combine the duties of school principal1 teacher1 forewoman1 factory superintendent1 and business manager4 ,they must be willing to give themselves to the cause1 as they are responsible for the conduct of their departments throughout the year1 at night as well as during the day1 at least until they can train some one to whom they can delegate some of their responsibility4 ,they need a broad1 cultural education and1 at the same time1 interest and knowledge of the industrial problems of the time1 as well as experience in their particular trade4 ,they must have sympathy with the working people and their lives4 ,it is evident that such women are hard to find1 and when found or when trained are in demand by other institutions or in business life1 in which places they can command high salaries4 ,all efficient trade teachers also are equally in demand in workrooms1 hence the school must compete with good business salaries in place of the usual underpay of educational institutions4 ,in addition to the trade teachers1 practical instructors in healthful living and special secretaries needing social knowledge of various kinds are also essential in the modern trade school for girls4 ,their training adds to the director's responsibilities1 for no one at present has the knowledge and experience necessary4 ,the many problems connected with obtaining an adequate teaching staff seem at present to have but one solution1 i4 e41 the school has to be its own training school for its faculty to a greater or less extent4 ,one source of assistant teachers has been found in students who have made good in trade4 ,pupils of fair education who show skill and executive ability in their department work and who later succeed in their trade positions have already proved helpful when brought back to the school4 ,such girls know the courses of instruction1 their needs and difficulties1 and also the outside workroom demands4 ,if they are given some hints in methods of teaching1 their success is greater4 ,european trade schools for girls have drawn many of the best teachers from the student body and have organized teachers' training classes for them4 ,a course of regular training for trade pupil teachers should be given later in ,american training schools to meet this situation4 ,courses of ,study ,as the changes about to occur in the market must be recognized and inserted in the curriculum in time for the students to be prepared for the new work when they are placed1 set courses of study cannot be followed without endangering the practical value of the teaching4 ,furthermore1 the pupils must be advanced as they show ability1 and their different characteristics should have consideration2 hence the work must be sufficiently flexible and adaptable to allow for increasing one kind of training and decreasing another1 in order to develop a girl's best ability4 ,it is not the trade courses only which should be fitted to the need1 but the trade-art1 trade-academic1 and physical education must also shift and introduce needed material as quickly as would the market grasp at new plans for the workrooms4 ,nor is it sufficient that the curriculum should adapt itself merely to training girls for trade positions4 ,it is never to be forgotten that these students are to be made into higher grade workers and citizens1 and that the greater number of them will marry4 ,in general1 it can be said that woman's entrance into industry is more or less temporary in that it is apt to precede or to follow marriage1 and1 as a rule1 is not continuous4 ,good citizenship for these young wage-earners should mean the better home as well as the broader views of industrial life4 ,the inserting into an already too brief training the important factors for making the better home-keeper requires study of the ethics and economics of home and social life in addition to the study of the industrial situation1 and places continuous problems before the faculty4 ,investigations ,in order to be in vital touch with the practical needs and changes of the market1 special investigations of trade have been and are continually conducted by the faculty of the school4 ,effort is made by them also to keep in close contact with industrial and social organizations of workers in settlements1 clubs1 societies1 and unions1 that all phases of the wage-earner's life1 pleasures1 aims1 and needs1 may be appreciated4 ,the pupils in attendance are studied to know their conditions of health1 their tendencies1 their needs1 their improvement4 ,after their entry into trade they are kept in touch with the school through the ,placement ,bureau1 clubs1 graduate associations1 and also by visits from the school's investigator1 in order to note the effect of their training on their self-support1 their workrooms1 and their homes4 ,groups of trained and untrained girls are compared1 that differences and benefits may be noted and the true situation may be clearly understood4 ,that the essentials of this class of education might be grasped as far as possible1 the director of the school made a six months' investigation of the professional schools for girls on the continent of ,europe4 ,this study was made after the ,manhattan ,trade ,school had been organized and was running successfully4 ,the problems were then well in hand1 and advantage could be taken the better of differing standpoints4 ,in some ,european countries such practical instruction has been established for half a century4 ,each country has organized the work according to its own view of woman's position in industrial and domestic life4 ,many aspects of the problem can therefore be studied and various courses of instruction consulted4 ,this investigation covered three interesting fields4 ,first1 the organization of the schools1 including the equipment2 the teachers and their training2 the budget2 the order work2 the relation of the school to employers2 the placing of the girls in positions2 the wages2 the schemes for financial aid1 and the work of the alumn associations4 ,second1 the trades taught and the courses of instruction2 the general education required at entrance and that given as an integral part of trade2 the trade-art courses2 the housekeeping and training of servants2 the development of ideas of better living and the training for responsibility in home and trade life4 ,third1 the visiting of workrooms employing women2 the obtaining information on the effect of trade schools2 the students' usefulness and ability to advance1 and a survey of the crafts conducted in the homes of the people4 ,trade ,order ,administration ,a trade school must do its skilled handwork in the fashion of the day and on correct materials1 yet the students are too poor to work for themselves4 ,a school budget cannot supply such large quantities of valuable materials unless it can get some return for them4 ,the school shop in each department1 where orders both private and custom are taken1 has proved advantageous1 but involves great problems of administration3 7#a7 the actual business methods and management connected with the invoices1 sales1 and delivery of goods2 7#b7 the obtaining of orders needed and of the quantity desirable2 7#c7 the taking of custom orders1 fitting the customer1 and delivery of orders on time2 7#d7 a satisfactory apportionment of the order work so that the students may profit by it and not be expected to continue it after they have had sufficient experience of one kind1 or if they are not yet able to do the elaborate work involved2 7#e7 the finding of operatives who will do what the students cannot or should not do2 7#f7 the expense involved in employing workers at trade prices and for shorter hours2 7#g7 the cost of articles1 and other details which are involved in entering into competition with trade4 ,it may be stated that no trade school should underbid the market1 but should charge the full prices and expect to give equivalent returns4 ,a trade school cannot afford to be an amateur supported by a philanthropic public1 but must have a recognized business standard4 ,placement ,problems of varied kinds meet the school in placing its students4 ,each new enactment of child labor or industrial laws has its influence4 ,even a good law will sometimes have a temporary serious effect in lowering wages or turning capable girls out of satisfactory positions4 ,care must be exercised that students are not placed where there is a possibility of running counter to the best interests of labor4 ,the desire to place each pupil where she can develop to her highest condition requires continual knowledge of the market needs and of the characteristics of the many girls4 ,records of students entering1 studying1 and placed1 the kinds of positions open1 and industrial and labor information must be kept up to date1 yet such data are often hard to secure4 ,trade ,union ,attitude ,an important question that is always before a trade school is the effect the instruction may have on the working people4 ,it is difficult for one not continually in the midst of the pressure of the actual trade to know the many ways that thoughtless advance in trade teaching may react to the disadvantage of the very ones that the school wishes to help4 ,injury may be done by preparing too many for certain occupations1 filling places where a strike is on1 replacing well-paid positions with trade school girls at a less price1 placing the girls at too small a wage for their skill1 doing order work at too low a price or when a strike is on1 considering too closely the fitting of a worker for the employer's benefit rather than for the broadening of her own life1 and like thoughtless actions4 ,the difficulties of the situation are great and the solution frequently obscure1 but a fair-minded school must be in touch with the effort the working woman herself has inaugurated to better her condition4 ,the apparently unnecessary suspicion with which the laboring class regards the organization of trade instruction would have foundation if no thought were given to the trade conditions as the working girl sees them4 ,a trade school for fourteen-year-old girls need not make a point of their immediate entrance into unions1 but it should consider the subject simply and wisely in all its bearings1 that the students may know the full aims and advantages of coperation as well as the point of view and many difficulties of the employers4 ,contact with ,trade ,the faculty of a trade school needs the coperation and assistance of the working people and the employers of labor4 ,only through intimate interrelation with them can the best and most practical results be obtained4 ,auxiliaries and committees of employers and of wage-earners2 visits of the staff of the school to trade1 and of employers1 forewomen1 and workers to the school2 the carrying out of orders for workrooms and assisting them at busy seasons1 are some of the ways by which the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has tried to gain the help of the busy industrial world4 ,problems of ,financial ,aid ,the aid given to enable the poorest students to attend the school has brought its own questions1 such as3 the danger of pauperizing the recipients2 the methods of selecting the beneficiaries2 the best way to give the weekly aid2 the development of a spirit of earnest work and regular attendance in the girls thus aided2 the stimulation of a desire to return some equivalent in special helpfulness to the ,manhattan ,trade ,school or to its students1 and the eliminating of this philanthropic effort from any apparent relation to school work4 ,,footnotes3 ,b ,in order to explain these problems1 it will be necessary to repeat some of the data in ,part ,i4 ,,part ,,iii ,,equipment ,,and ,,support ,housing and ,equipment ,the first home of the ,manhattan ,trade ,school was a large four-story and basement dwelling house1 for which a rental of #b1ajj per annum was paid4 ,the initial permanent equipment and first temporary stock provided for one hundred students1 and cost #i1ejj4 ,this amount was utilized principally for the furnishing of special rooms for electric power operating2 for sewing2 for dressmaking2 for millinery2 for pasting2 and for the more general equipment of offices1 academic and art rooms1 a kitchen1 and a lunch room4 ,the following lists show the range of expenses for furnishing the main workrooms with necessary equipment3 ,,garment ,,or ,,dressmaking ,,workroom ,sewing machines1 each #ah4jj to #gj4jj ,work1 cutting1 and ironing tables1 each #f4jj to #bj4jj upward ,electric irons1 each #g4ge ,gas stove 7necessary when electric irons are not used71 each #b4jj upward ,cheval glass1 each #bj4jj to #ajj4jj upward ,chairs1 each 4#ej to #c4jj upward ,exhibition1 stock closets1 cabinets1 and chests of drawers1 each #aj4jj to #ajj4jj upward ,fitting stands1 each #b4jj to #cj4jj upward ,fitting room 7a curtained alcove71 each #aj4jj upward ,fitting room 7a furnished room71 each #ajj4jj upward ,dress forms1 per dozen #cj4jj upward ,waist forms1 per dozen #f4jj upward ,sleeve forms1 pair #a4jj to #a4ej upward ,lockers1 per running foot #c4jj to #h4jj upward ,a room for twenty workers may be plainly furnished at a cost of #cjj to #ejj4 ,if a large number of expensive sewing machines are desired1 the estimates must be increased by several hundred dollars4 ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has forty foot-power machines of the kinds most in use in the workrooms of ,new ,york4 ,the equipping of a workroom for electric power operating1 including general and special machines1 motor1 cutting and work tables1 cabinets and chairs1 will be considerably more expensive than the one for garment making4 ,in the latter1 one sewing machine can be used by several workers1 but in electric operating each worker must have her own machine4 ,the electric motor adds also to the expense4 ,the minimum cost of equipping a shop for twenty workers would be #a1jjj to #a1ejj4 ,the necessary equipment would be as follows3 ,,electric ,,operating ,,workroom ,plain sewing machines in rows1 per head #bb4ej upward ,troughs for work between the rows and tables for the machines 7per every two machines7 #aj4jj ,special machines 7two needle1 embroidery1 lace stitch1 buttonhole1 straw sewing1 and the like71 each according to kind #ce4jj to #abe4jj ,motor1 each #adj4jj upward ,electric cutter1 each #be4jj upward ,cabinets1 tables1 chairs1 and irons1 see above ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has fifty-five plain electric sewing machines and thirty-two special machines1 as follows3 three buttonhole1 one two-needle1 one binding1 one zigzag1 five hemstitching1 five tucker1 four ,bonnaz1 one braider1 one hand embroidery1 one scalloping1 nine straw sewing4 ,in workrooms conducting trades which use paste1 gum1 and glue1 the following special equipment is required3 ,glue pots1 gas1 each #g4ej upward ,glue pots1 electric1 each #ba4ge upward ,hand cutter1 each #ej4jj upward ,cabinets1 tables1 chairs1 see above ,the cost of equipping a shop would be from #bjj to #djj4 ,special machines for perforating designs or for pleating materials are often needed in teaching the garment trades4 ,wholesale prices can usually be obtained when the order is large4 ,dealers have also shown themselves willing to sell their machines at low prices1 to loan them1 and even to give them to a school which has proved its ability to train good workers4 ,when it was appreciated that the original quarters of the school were too limited1 the ,board of ,administrators went to work with great enthusiasm and in a few months collected the requisite money and bought a large business loft building at #bji-bac ,east #bc;d ,street1 at an expense of #age1jjj4 ,to put it in order for work cost #e1jjj in addition4 ,the former equipment was used and #e1jjj more was spent for such needed items as3 machines1 #c1bjj2 motor1 #ceb2 perforating machine1 #ch2 additional master clocks1 #bcc2 chairs and tables1 #hej4 ,the school is furnished in a simple1 businesslike manner1 the equipment merely reproducing good workroom requirements1 i4 e41 essentials only4 ,the budget for the first year1 #aijb-aijc1 was #bb1jid4af1 of which the salaries for teachers took about one-half and the rent and maintenance covered the other half4 ,during this year there were #aac students admitted4 ,in #aijh-aiji1 after six years of rapid growth1 the educational budget is #di1jjj1 or more than double the original1 of which the salaries are #ch1hjf2 the supplies1 #a1gaj2 printing and publishing1 #fjj2 maintenance1 #i1ijj4 ,at the beginning of #aijh there were #bed students in the school2 #fhi were registered during the year1 making a total of #idc girls1 being almost nine times the number in attendance during the first year4 ,the ,support ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has depended for its support entirely upon voluntary contributions4 ,there have been few large donations and the donors represent all classes of the community--patrons of and workers in sociological1 economic1 philanthropic1 and educational fields1 employers of labor1 and auxiliaries of many kinds of workers organized for special purposes4 ,the most significant help1 perhaps1 and the largest in proportion to its income1 has been that of the wage-earners themselves--not only the girl who has benefited by the instruction1 but the general mass of women workers4 ,these women1 knowing the difficulties in their own struggle to rise1 have shown themselves willing to set apart weekly a small sum to help young girls to attain quickly efficiency through systematic training4 ,the auxiliaries of wage-earners are a mainstay of the school on account of their helpful enthusiasm1 their practical suggestions1 their interest in girls trained there1 and their regular subscriptions on which the ,board of ,administrators can depend4 ,,part ,,iv ,,outlines ,,and ,,detailed ,,accounts ,,of ,,department ,,work ,the ,faculty and ,staff ,the original staff of the ,manhattan ,trade ,school1 #aijb-aijc1 consisted of a ,director1 an ,executive ,secretary1 #d supervisors 7,operating1 ,dressmaking1 ,pasting1 and ,art71 #e instructors and forewomen1 #d or #e assistants and occasional workers1 a janitor1 and #b cleaners4 ,the present staff1 #aiji-aiaj1 consists of 7#a7 ,office ,administration1 #aa3 ,director1 ,executive ,secretary1 ,assistant ,secretary1 #b ,stenographers 7office and placement71 ,placement ,secretary1 ,investigator1 ,business ,clerk1 ,buyer1 and #b ,assistants 7records1 telephone1 etc474 7#b7 ,teaching ,force1 ,supervisors1 and ,assistant ,supervisors1 #g3 ,dressmaking1 ,dressmaking workroom1 ,electric ,operating1 ,millinery1 ,novelty1 ,physical ,education1 ,art4 ,instructors1 ,teachers1 and ,forewomen1 #aa3 ,academic1 #b2 ,dressmaking1 #c2 ,operating1 #e2 ,art1 #a4 ,assistants1 #ad3 ,dressmaking1 #g2 ,novelty1 #c2 ,operating1 #a2 ,physical ,education1 #b2 ,art1 #a4 7#c7 ,doctor4 7#d7 ,care of ,building1 #g3 ,engineer1 ,janitor1 ,machinist1 ,cleaners #b1 ,elevator boy1 and ,night watchman4 ,,administration ,admission ,requirements ,i4 ,age3 fourteen to seventeen years4 ,the law requires a child to remain in public school until fourteen4 ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school has found that under fourteen a girl is too immature to specialize in trade work1 and that over seventeen most girls are too mature to fit into the work planned for the majority of the class4 ,,ii4 ,public ,school ,grade3 #e-;,a or above4 ,the subject matter of #e-;,a grade or its equivalent is required by the state before a child can leave to work4 ,if for illness or other good cause a girl has not made this grade1 she is admitted to the ,trade ,school with special permission of principal of last school attended1 and1 while studying her trade1 the necessary amount of schooling is made up to her by special classes and coaching4 ,the ,board of ,health recognizes this substitute4 ,grade of girls admitted since beginning is shown in following table3 ,,grade ,,upon ,,leaving ,,school ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,below ,fifth ,sixth ,seventh ,eighth ,graduate ,high ,fifth ,grade ,grade ,grade ,grade ,per ,school ,grade ,per ,per ,per ,per cent4 ,per ,per cent4 cent4 cent4 cent4 cent4 cent4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- #aijb #h #ai #ce #bf #b #aj #j #aijc #aa #ah #ai #bi #f #ae #b #aijd #f #aa #ae #be #af #be #b #aije #g #ae #ai #ai #ag #ai #d #aijf #h #af #bj #bc #ag #ac #c #aijg #g #aj #be #bc #ae #ah #b #aijh #d #ae #bf #bj #ac #af #f ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,during #aijh1 #adc older women were admitted to a special workroom opened for the unemployed4 ,,iii4 ,filing of working papers is required of girls under sixteen4 #a4 ,no girl under sixteen can work in ,new ,york unless she has an ,employment ,certificate issued by the ,board of ,health1 and then only from #h ,a4,m4 to #e ,p4,m41 or for eight hours daily4 #b4 ,the public school last attended by the girl is responsible for her until she is sixteen1 or has her working papers1 or is dismissed to another school4 ,if dismissed to ,manhattan ,trade ,school her attendance there cannot be made compulsory1 and she may attend a few days and then leave and work illegally4 ,our facilities for following up such cases are limited4 ,with her working papers on file we know she is not evading the law1 and can dismiss her to work if she is not a success in trade lines of training4 #c4 ,exceptions3 ,lack of proper birth record1 on account of foreign birth or failure to make record of it by officials1 may prevent the obtaining of an ,employment ,certificate4 ,a special provision is made by the ,board of ,health in such cases1 and1 pending adjustment1 the girl is admitted upon notice of date of future issuance4 ,,iv4 ,reference3 ,some reliable person's name is required of each applying student1 in order to have some one to communicate with in case of difficulty of any kind4 ,v4 ,application in person3 ,each girl fills out an application blank giving name1 address1 and birthplace of self1 father1 and mother1 public school attendance1 previous trade experience1 if any1 trade desired1 reference4 ,this must be written at the school1 for the manner in which it is done is a large part of test for admission4 ,times of ,admission ,the school year begins in ,july1 but a girl is admitted any ,monday when there is a vacancy in the department she wishes to enter4 ,the following table gives record of yearly admission3 --------------------------------- ,nov4 #b1 #aijb 7first day7 #bj ,rest of #aijb #ic #aijc #aci #aijd #aic #aije #bci #aijf #cbh #aijg #dcc #aijh #fhi #aiji #eag -------- ,total #b1fea --------------------------------- ,some of these students did not remain long enough to take a thorough training1 for home demands made even a small wage imperative1 and the girl had to join the ranks of earners ill prepared4 ,some were not adapted to trade conditions1 and soon fell out by the way4 ,many persisted until they took more than the average twelve months' course1 and went into business at a proportionately higher wage4 ,records ,i4 ,attendance3 #a4 ,daily1 ,monday to ,friday inclusive4 ,the factory method of time cards punched by a clock upon entrance and leaving has been adopted as being most exact1 businesslike1 and time saving4 ,it registers the exact time when rung1 and so indicates tardiness as well as absence4 #b4 ,weekly4 ,a small filing card ruled for fifty-two weeks summarizes the daily record of time cards and requires the marking attendance only once a week4 ,this file is subdivided into departments and again into classes1 so that the statistics of enrollment are easily gathered4 ,,ii4 ,individual records3 #a4 ,upon admission a record card is started for each girl1 no matter how long she may attend4 ,this contains 7#a7 the data given upon the application blank copied in detail2 7#b7 ,student ,aid1 if given1 amount1 date1 and remarks4 #b4 ,upon leaving1 entries are made on the same card of 7#a7 date and cause of leaving2 7#b7 record in different departments--,art1 ,academic1 ,trade1 and ,health2 7#c7 certificate--kind1 record1 date4 ,this is not granted until the pupil has proved satisfactory in her trade both in the school and in business2 7#d7 ,trade ,record--upon the reverse side of the card is the record in trade after leaving school1 with columns for date1 employer1 kind of work1 wages1 remarks4 ,this is kept up by the ,placement ,secretary by frequent visits and letters1 and gives the basis for many valuable deductions as to the practical results of the training4 ,,iii4 ,other records kept in departments are 7#a7 ,student ,aid3 application and information2 7#b7 ,health3 examinations upon entrance and future rexaminations2 7#c7 ,department3 records of each girl as she passes from class to class1 such as attitude1 speed1 and skill4 ,length of ,year ,the school is in session forty-eight weeks each year1 four weeks being given up to one-week vacations at ,christmas1 ,easter1 ,fourth of ,july1 and ,labor ,day4 ,the summer session is the beginning of the regular work1 and not a unit for summer training4 ,no one is admitted for the summer only1 as the time is too short for real trade standards to be approached4 ,tuition ,the tuition is absolutely free4 ,the ,manhattan ,trade ,school aims to reach the poorest girl who has little chance to advance rapidly unless some one gives her a lift4 ,in order to do this most effectively it is sometimes necessary to assist her4 7,see the report of the ,student ,aid ,work47 ,choice of ,trade ,a girl upon application can select the trade into which she wishes to go4 ,if after a month's trial she proves competent1 she is allowed to continue2 if not1 she is advised to change to another department or to seek employment in work not taught at the ,trade ,school4 ,if a girl has no choice of trade because of ignorance of possibilities1 she is shown the kinds taught and given a chance to make a selection4 ,if then she is undecided1 she is advised to take what seems best adapted to the time she can spend and the type of girl she appears to be4 ,business ,management ,however simple a school is1 some bookkeeping is necessary1 and when with the running of the school is combined the management of trade order supplies and receipts the problem becomes very complicated4 7,see ,trade ,order ,work47 ,i4 ,general3 ,a system of up-to-date bookkeeping of ,general ,ledger1 ,invoice ,book1 and ,daily ,exhibit1 with details worked out in ,petty ,cash and ,maintenance ,books1 has been adopted4 ,these few simple books so distribute accounts of expense and receipts that one can soon see the standing of the whole school or of a single department4 ,all bookkeeping is centralized in one office1 except the taking of orders and the details of filling them1 which must be in the hands of the department concerned4 ,,ii4 ,departmental3 #a4 ,requisition blanks for purchases made4 #b4 ,order blank and duplicate for order given by customer4 #c4 ,time slips1 wherever possible1 to get exact record of time value of work done4 #d4 ,material slips1 to keep account of what has gone into any orders4 #e4 ,final billing1 to give data for bills sent out from main office and duplicate filed there for final records4 ,,the ,,power ,,machine ,,operating ,,department ,aim ,to train girls to work on sewing machines run by electric power and to put a thinker behind every machine as its operator4 ,the department hopes by awakening intelligent interest in the tool1 i4 e41 the machine1 to kindle ambition in the workers4 ,it is only through the intelligent use of the tool and consequent love of work which follows that we can look forward to supplying the skilled machine workers of the future4 ,this training must be given while the girls are in the formative period1 to develop habits of thought and action which will counteract the bad effects upon the worker that follow division and subdivision of work1 with consequent subdivision of ability1 which takes place in all factories today4 ,when a pupil has been thoroughly trained in the intelligent use of her tool1 when she has learned to construct complete garments1 if she is then1 through force of circumstances such as modern production entails1 compelled to carry out one process on the machine indefinitely1 or to make one part of a garment1 she still holds the balance of power in being prepared to do something else when opportunity or necessity demands4 ,general ,steps in ,training ,i4 ,a pupil must be given a short time to adjust herself to the workshop environment1 consequently she is put first at some simple work1 such as ripping or cutting up old garments4 ,this gives her freedom while using her hands to look about the workroom and to get accustomed to the sight as well as to the sound of machines in action4 ,,ii4 ,the pupil is taught to control the power by which the machine is run1 and is then given an intelligent understanding of the mechanism of the machine or machines she is to operate4 ,,iii4 ,the pupil then begins her regular course of work1 and her feeling of responsibility of the value of time is awakened--that is1 her seconds1 minutes1 and hours1 days1 weeks1 and months are now important factors in her life1 and they may be used for good or evil4 ,in the language of the department1 time may be spent wisely or foolishly1 and1 while studying at the ,manhattan ,trade ,school1 seven hours out of every day of the girl's life is given over to productive work and should be accounted for4 ,the department has developed its own plan of time payments1 which is much like the piece-work system employed in trade4 ,through its rewards for time well spent it makes the fact real to the pupils1 as no form of punishment could do1 that wasted time is gone forever4 ,the department is divided into five classes1 three of which must be taken to make an all-round operator1 namely3 ,elementary1 two months' course2 ,intermediate1 four months' course2 ,advanced1 six months' course4 ,in trade1 salaries for such positions range from #e to #ae4 ,the other two classes train specialists on the electric machines1 special machines of various kinds1 straw-sewing machines4 ,special machine work requires from three months to one year in addition to the full course of all-round operating4 ,salaries range from #f to #cj4 ,an expert trade worker is in charge of each class4 ,course of ,work ,regular ,operating ,course3 #a4 ,control of power--learning names and uses of parts of machines4 ,making bags1 clothes1 and operator's equipment4 #b4 ,straight and bias stitching1 equal distance apart4 #c4 ,spaced bias stitching from given measurements4 #d4 ,making and turning square corners1 stitching heavy edge for tension practice4 #e4 ,machine table apron1 using former principles4 ,this is used to protect operator from shafting and oil4 #f4 ,seams3 ,plain seam1 plain and band seam2 ,french seam2 bag seam on warp2 bag seam1 one warp and one bias2 bag seam1 two biases4 #g4 ,hemming3 ,different sized hems turned by hand for correct measurements2 hems run through hemmer to learn use of attachment and give speed2 seams through hemmer--bag seam1 flat fell4 #h4 ,quilting3 ,following designs made by pupils in ,art ,department4 ,practice for control of power1 starting and stopping machine at given point4 #i4 ,banding3 ,straight and bias bands placed by measurement from design made in ,art ,department4 ,practice for edge stitching1 turning corners1 accuracy of measurement4 #aj4 ,advanced seams on cloth and silk3 ,flannel seam1 slot seam1 umbrella seam4 #aa4 ,yokes made and put on3 ,round yokes--petticoats2 round front and straight back--drawers and petticoats2 bias yokes--waists2 shaped yokes--aprons2 round yokes--children's dresses2 miter corner yoke--dresses4 #ab4 ,tucking3 ,free hand tucking for accuracy in measuring and use of rule2 special tucking on length and widths of different materials to give speed and skill in handling different fabrics4 ,general ,construction3 ,trade ,stock and ,order ,work 7,see ,order ,work73 ,infants' slips1 children's underwear2 children's rompers2 children's dresses2 women's underwear2 shirtwaists2 aprons2 house dresses2 fancy negligees4 ,special ,machine ,work3 ,buttonholes2 tucking2 two-needle work2 hemstitching2 ,bonnaz 7,corneli7 embroidery2 machine hand embroidery1 scalloping4 ,students of special ability only are fitted to take this course4 ,one girl in fifteen has usually the requisite application and self-control to operate a special machine successfully4 ,each machine is specialized1 i4 e41 does its own particular work and no other4 ,patient attention to little things is required on the part of the operator in order that good results may be produced4 ,such machines are supposed to need only a hand behind them to guide the work4 ,our experience has proved to us that good results are produced only when intelligence and patience are factors4 ,in the factories1 machinists keep the special machines in order1 but the school aims to train the operator to keep her own machine in good condition1 thus saving her valuable time4 ,bonnaz 7,corneli7 embroidery work offers excellent opportunities for correlation with the ,art ,department4 ,both ,bonnaz 7,corneli7 and machine hand embroidery must be felt in the muscles before they can be carried out on the material1 therefore the work with the pencil in making designs which are to be carried out on the machine is of first importance4 ,free-hand designs must be made first in large1 free movements on the machine until the arm muscles are thoroughly familiar with the curve1 sweep1 and feeling to be executed4 ,after mastery of movement and sweep are acquired1 the same designs may be reduced in size ten or twenty times and the pupil will still work them out in perfect rhythm4 ,after the mastery of movement is acquired1 the cording1 braiding1 and three-thread attachment work are easily learned by a pupil who has the necessary mechanical sense4 ,the course of ,bonnaz 7,corneli7 work covers3 chain stitch1 lettering1 appliqu work1 cording1 braiding1 three-thread work4 ,machine hand embroidery should be given as a supplementary course to ,bonnaz 7,corneli7 embroidery4 ,it gives excellent training in design and color work4 ,special trade machine straw sewing should also be taken up after the regular course in operating4 ,it gives splendid exercise for quick handling of material1 but makes a poor foundation of itself on which to build a painstaking1 expert1 all-round operator4 ,speed is the first requisite in getting a hat properly shaped1 as the straw braid is flying through the machine at the rate of four thousand stitches a minute2 hence the general operating is given first to the pupil to train her in the requisite neatness4 ,as straw-sewing has long slack seasons1 the operator can during such times return to the regular operating4 ,,dressmaking ,,department ,aim ,the aim of the ,dressmaking ,department is to train girls in the elements of the dressmaking trade1 in order to enable them to immediately secure employment as improvers and finishers or as assistants on skirts1 waists1 and sleeves1 and to give them a preparation which will help them eventually to rise to positions of skill and responsibility4 ,the training eliminates the errand girl and apprenticeship stages1 and makes possible a living wage at the start4 ,the result is accomplished in from nine to seventeen months1 the time depending entirely upon the capability of the girl1 her physical condition1 her application to her work1 her regularity of attendance1 and her previous training4 ,classes ,the department is divided into three sections3 7#a7 ,the ,elementary1 which consists of two classes for the teaching of simple sewing and machine work4 ,this section is rendered necessary by the poor preparation of the students at the entrance4 ,it would be not only practical but desirable for elementary public and industrial schools so to train their students that they could omit this part of the ,manhattan ,trade ,school course4 7#b7 ,the ,vocational4 ,this section also includes two classes4 ,the work is tradelike in character1 but much time has to be given to developing right habits of work as well as to learning specific kinds of handwork4 ,the public secondary schools could offer this section to advantage1 and through it train pupils for a better knowledge of the home or for future livelihood4 7#c7 ,the ,trade ,section4 ,this is a business shop1 which reproduces trade conditions as nearly as possible and is subdivided into the same progressive divisions4 ,although the object is to work as trade does1 the educational aim is also prominent1 and the course of training has been planned with both ends in view4 ,order work plays an important part in this section1 for it makes possible the quantity and variety of material necessary to supply the many repetitions of important phases of dressmaking1 the new views of old principles1 and the elaborate costume manufacturing which are needed in the training4 ,it would be impossible for a school to adequately deal with the many varieties of garments in this trade without some equivalent for the order work4 ,the use of models or of practice material is not satisfactory on account of the great difference between theoretical and practical knowledge in handling valuable materials4 ,a girl may learn to run fine tucks on cheesecloth1 but this will not enable her to do satisfactory hand-tucking on chiffon4 ,neither is it a correct educational or economic principle to cut up quantities of good material1 which the students will look upon as rags1 and then1 after working on them1 to throw them into a receptacle for waste or sell them simply to get rid of them4 ,to secure the best results in any line of instruction there must be interest and enthusiasm4 ,the aim1 therefore1 must be definite and the results vital4 ,the work is planned to foster these higher qualities4 ,the students produce articles for a definite use2 they are given a required time in which the work should be completed2 trade itself sets the standard of judgment1 and a definite relation exists between the work of all the classes1 so that old principles may be recognized when presented in new forms4 ,courses of ,work ,i4 ,elementary ,section4 7#a7 ,beginners' ,class4 ,first1 a test is given each girl when she enters which enables her instructor to judge of her ability in sewing4 ,it has been found necessary1 in the majority of cases1 to teach all or the greater part of the following principles3 the use of sewing utensils1 the making of the stitches1 their application in articles1 and the running of the sewing machine4 ,hence the second step has been a course of work covering the use of these needed principles1 each girl beginning at the point where she needs training4 ,third1 the final test4 ,on the satisfactory completion of this very elementary training a test is given to show a girl's ability to work1 to think1 and to utilize ideas4 ,if she is not yet fully prepared1 further time is spent in emphasizing the points she still requires4 ,the work in the ,beginners' ,class is done upon articles which have a trade value and which are sold to customers or to the students for about the cost of the materials4 ,the school furnishes the materials for all elementary work1 but the students must provide their own tools and keep them in good condition4 ,these include a thimble1 needles1 scissors1 a tape measure1 an emery1 and a white apron4 ,class instruction followed by individual criticism is the method of teaching in the ,elementary ,section4 ,emphasis is placed upon the proper use of the utensils1 the position of the body1 and the handling of the work4 ,individual records are kept of the grade of work and of the time taken to finish a problem4 ,the course takes from two to three months to complete1 and the students are at work four and one-half hours per day4 ,,outline ,,of ,,work ,,in ,,beginners' ,,class #a4 ,stitches and special forms of sewing3 ,basting1 running1 overhanding1 overcasting1 hemming1 blind stitching1 sewing on buttons 7two hole1 four hole71 buttonholes1 featherstitching4 #b4 ,seams3 ,plain2 selvage and raw edges2 ,french2 felled2 straight and bias edges2 overhanded4 #c4 ,machine stitching3 ,straight seams and rows2 hems2 facings--points2 use of tucker4 #d4 ,principles3 ,measuring1 seams1 hems1 tucks1 cutting by a thread2 matching stripes2 turning and basting hems2 making casing for drawstrings2 putting on band--by hand1 by machine--one and two pieces2 setting strings into bands2 finishing ends of hems2 putting on pockets--straight and shaped2 plain placket2 cutting bias strips2 piecing bias strips2 facing curved and straight edges 7armholes1 neck1 waist1 points72 joining waist and skirt with bias facing2 making straight tucked ruffle2 inserting ruffle under tuck on skirt2 ripping4 #e4 ,articles used in the work 7this list is changed at will and is merely representative73 ,handwork--,pin cushion1 bag1 towel1 white apron with ruffle4 ,machine work--,belt1 gingham apron oversleeves1 child's dress with waist1 uniform apron4 #f4 ,supplementary work3 ,shoe bags1 silver cases1 holders1 bibs1 silk bags1 darning bags1 needle books1 traveling cases1 baby caps and work of a similar character4 #g4 ,materials used3 ,cotton1 linen1 silk4 7#b7 ,intermediate ,class4 ,the ,beginners' ,class gives most of its time to hand sewing1 the ,intermediate ,class emphasizes machine sewing4 ,the work is a repetition of the principles taught in the ,beginners' ,class1 but is presented in a different manner1 with new applications4 ,orders are taken from individuals or business houses for the garments which are made in this course4 ,the price is that of the trade4 ,these orders furnish a market for the entire output of the class4 ,a certain amount of class instruction is given1 but the girls are expected to do independent work under supervision4 ,,outline ,,of ,,work ,,in ,,intermediate ,,class #a4 ,review of former principles on new garments3 7#a7 ,french seam--straight edges1 baby slips and nightgowns4 7#b7 ,hems1 7a7 straight1 7b7 turned by hand1 on princess aprons1 bloomers1 sleeves1 etc41 7c7 turned by machine--hemmer on ruffles1 for drawers and petticoats4 7#c7 ,overcasting--seams of skirts4 7#d7 ,buttonholes--all garments4 7#e7 ,plackets--plain hemmed1 on skirts1 baby slips4 7#f7 ,bias bands--joining and applying to straight and curved edges1 on princess aprons1 drawers1 top of petticoat4 7#g7 ,ruffle--joining1 measuring1 and applying under tuck1 on skirt and drawers4 7#h7 ,machine instruction--threading1 setting needles1 winding bobbin1 scale of thread1 needle1 and stitch4 #b4 ,new principles3 7#a7 ,flat fell--shaped and bias edges on princess aprons and drawers4 7#b7 ,french seam--shaped edges in petticoat seams4 7#c7 ,loops--on petticoats and dressing sacques4 7#d7 ,hems--shaped edges in gored skirts1 princess aprons and nightgowns1 baby slips and children's dresses4 7#e7 ,overhanding--pieces on nightgowns1 piecing ruffles and lace on underwear4 7#f7 ,plackets--faced in drawers1 petticoats1 bloomers1 and dress skirts4 7#g7 ,bias band--applying to top of ruffle in petticoats and drawers4 7#h7 ,bias binding--corset cover and nightgown4 7#i7 ,ruffle--finishing with bias bands on petticoat and drawers4 7#aj7 ,cuffs--making and applying to nightgowns1 baby slips1 rompers1 and house dresses4 7#aa7 ,sleeves--gathering on wrong side and putting into baby slips1 nightgowns1 dressing sacques1 etc4 7#ab7 ,pressing4 7#ac7 ,sewing hooks and eyes on petticoats4 7#ad7 ,machine instruction in cleaning1 oiling1 and attachments4 #c4 ,list of articles made for stock and order3 ,aprons--princess1 maids'1 fancy4 ,women's clothes--dressing sacques1 nightgowns1 kimonos1 lounging robes1 house dresses1 chemises1 drawers1 skirts 7washable1 mohair1 silk71 collars1 and corset covers4 ,children's clothes--nightdresses1 night drawers1 drawers1 skirts1 rompers1 dresses1 and aprons4 #d4 ,materials used3 ,cotton1 silk1 woolen1 and worsted4 ,,ii4 ,vocational ,section4 ,the increasing demand for ready-made clothing has opened a new field for girls obliged to enter the business world as soon as the law will permit them to leave school4 ,this requires hand finishing on fancy waists and plain and fancy gowns1 which are made by the dozens on machines run by electric power4 ,it is not necessary to have a knowledge of actual dressmaking to be able to do this work4 ,the ability to do good handwork rapidly is the prerequisite4 ,in some establishments there are opportunities for girls of ability to rise from finisher to draper1 which latter position commands a high wage4 ,the producing of fine1 handmade underwear1 waists1 and dresses is another opportunity for girls who can take but a short time in which to prepare to earn their living4 ,work of this character is of a much higher grade than that of the wholesale finishing1 and demands the ability to do extremely good hand and machine work4 ,the worker must be able to handle the finest kind of materials and to do the most intricate work1 such as hand tucking1 setting in lace1 and trimmings4 ,although the course in the ,vocational ,section trains for specific branches1 it is very necessary that all dressmaking students should have experience in these lines in order to be better prepared for the actual dressmaking4 ,if1 however1 a girl has the ability to do the work of these classes1 she is allowed to skip either one or both of them4 ,course of work in the ,shop for ,gymnasium and ,swimming ,suits3 ,the students are drilled for one or two months in putting garments together1 stitching1 and finishing4 ,as but two kinds of garments are made1 speed is acquired and a certain amount of accuracy is gained through much repetition4 ,definite arrangements have been made through wholesale houses for the disposition of the product4 ,the materials are furnished by the school4 ,the price is that of trade4 7#a7 ,articles3 ,swimming suits 7patented71 bathing suits1 and gymnasium suits4 7#b7 ,materials used3 ,cotton1 wool1 worsted4 ,course of work in ,white ,work ,class3 ,the previous training having been a general one for accuracy1 speed1 and the mastery over mind and hand1 attention is now given for two and one-half or three months to fine detail work and the handling and keeping fresh and clean of the daintiest of cotton goods4 ,the materials are furnished by the school and the work is sold to customers at trade prices4 7#a7 ,principles3 ,hand-tucking1 rolling and whipping1 mitering corners1 overhanding trimming1 inserting lace and embroidery by hand and machine1 fine featherstitching1 and white hand embroidery4 7#b7 ,garments for stock and order2 fine underwear1 waists1 and baby clothes4 7#c7 ,material used3 cotton4 ,,iii4 ,trade ,section--,the ,business ,shop4 ,trade demands skilled workers1 and preference is given to those who have had practical training4 ,the trade section aims to add experience to skill by offering the students the actual work and conditions demanded in the outside market4 ,the general scheme is the one in use in moderate-sized dressmaking establishments4 ,the workroom has its tables devoted to separate kinds of work1 the students obtain a definite amount of knowledge from each experience1 and pass from one to the other as rapidly as their ability to grasp the principles will permit4 ,each division is in charge of an instructor with practical trade experience1 who prepares and supervises the work and also does the skilled parts which the students1 on account of their lack of experience1 are unable to do4 ,the girls are not taught cutting1 fitting1 and draping1 as trade would not permit a sixteen-year-old girl to attempt this work on account of her lack of judgment and experience2 but they have the opportunity to see and assist in the preparation of work4 ,no girl in the trade shop will make a complete garment1 but she will have worked upon all parts many times4 ,custom orders supply the shop with work4 ,the customers are interviewed1 measurements are taken1 estimates are given1 and dates for fittings are planned4 ,the information obtained is recorded upon blanks prepared for the purpose4 ,the materials are purchased1 the garments cut1 and the different parts 7skirts1 waists1 sleeves7 are delivered to the tables where such work is done4 ,blanks are provided for the recording of all materials used for customers' work1 and from these the bills are made out in the main office4 ,stock is obtained from the storerooms on signed requisitions only4 ,the stock clerk measures and delivers the materials and notes the amount withdrawn on each package4 ,course in ,dressmaking ,shop3 #a4 ,linings3 ,waist 7practice materials73 basting1 stitching1 pressing1 binding1 boning 7whalebone1 featherbone72 hooks and eyes2 facing2 overcasting4 #b4 ,shirtwaists and nurses' uniforms3 ,covering rings2 making shirtwaist cuff2 making shirtwaist placket2 putting on neckbands4 #c4 ,skirts3 ,petticoats or drop skirts for2 basting1 stitching1 pressing2 seams1 bands1 plackets2 trimming1 pinning1 putting on band4 #d4 ,trimmed skirts3 ,slip stitching2 milliner's and flat folds2 covering buttonholes2 binding1 shirring1 cording1 tucking1 piping1 facing1 braiding4 #e4 ,trimmed waists3 ,application of principles2 experience in making and applying trimming and handling delicate or perishable materials4 #f4 ,trimmed sleeves3 ,application in general knowledge and experience in applying trimmings4 #g4 ,garments made in the shop3 ,shirtwaists1 fancy dressing sacques and wrappers2 nurses' and maids' uniforms2 dancing dresses2 elaborate waists2 street1 afternoon1 and evening gowns2 tailored suits4 #h4 ,materials used3 ,all varieties of cotton1 linen1 silk1 woolen1 and worsted dress fabrics2 chiffon1 mousseline1 and trimmings of all kinds4 ,,iv4 ,results of training4 ,a change in the general appearance of the girls is soon apparent1 for which ability to make their own clothes and the refining influence of the doing of good work on good materials is probably responsible4 ,the elements of good order1 obedience1 thoughtfulness1 judgment1 self-control1 industry1 and thrift are fostered1 and every effort is put forth to make intelligent workers4 ,the fact that on entering trade the girls from the ,trade ,school receive nearly double the salary given untrained girls indicates that they are fitted for the outside workrooms4 ,v4 ,departmental relations4 ,the emphasis which the ,academic and ,art ,departments have laid upon accuracy1 careful work1 appreciation of measurements1 distances1 color1 and form has been of great value to the students in the ,dressmaking ,department4 ,the ,operating ,department has also been of service in training some of the students to work on special machines1 thus enabling them to make dress decoration4 ,the use of the electric power machine in custom dressmaking establishments is on the increase4 ,,vi4 ,trade relation4 ,the department is kept in close touch with trade conditions through personal visits1 through the houses which purchase its output1 and through those from whom the stock is bought4 ,many opportunities to purchase materials at reduced rates have been secured through the kindly interest of the trade4 ,an advisory board1 composed of business men and women1 has been appointed to pass judgment upon the scheme of work1 the standard and quality of work1 and the cost and market value of the products4 ,,millinery ,,department ,aim ,the aim of the ,millinery ,department is to train assistants1 improvers1 frame makers1 and preparers for wholesale and custom workrooms4 ,short ,course ,when this department was first opened the scope of the work for the day classes was much more extended and included training for copyists1 designers1 and milliners4 ,the curtailing of the course to more elementary preparation was brought about by a feeling of dissatisfaction with this trade for the young1 untrained1 or partly skilled workers4 ,close and continued contact with millinery shops showed that for young wage-earners a small1 initial wage and a not very rapid rise are usual2 that a short1 irregular1 seasonal engagement is almost inevitable2 that a long experience is needed before even the trained girl can rise to the higher positions2 that young workers become discouraged and are apt to drop the trade altogether1 even for lower wages1 if they can obtain steady work in another occupation4 ,as it was the fourteen or fifteen-year-old girl who came for the instruction1 it was better for her to be well trained as an assistant than to detain her at the school for a more advanced position which she would probably not be allowed to take on account of her youth and inexperience4 ,students in this department need to be watched with especial care to determine whether they are well adapted for their occupation1 and the mediocre worker would better enter some other field where the opportunities for her are more encouraging4 ,as the advance is slow the girl also whose poverty is hurrying her into wage-earning would better not elect this work4 ,the night classes which have been offered at the school gave training in the more advanced lines of millinery4 ,the day classes are also prepared to do so whenever older workers feel they can give time for the instruction4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction ,length of course3 ,six months4 #a4 ,practice3 ,shirring1 tucking1 cording1 rolled hem1 plain fold1 milliner's fold1 and cutting and joining bias pieces4 #b4 ,making and covering buckles and buttons2 wiring ribbons and laces2 making hat linings and wiring hats4 #c4 ,bandeaux3 ,wire1 capenet1 and buckram4 #d4 ,wire frame construction from dimensions and models2 making frames of buckram1 capenet1 and stiff willow4 #e4 ,covering frames with crinoline1 capenet1 mull1 maline1 and soft willow4 #f4 ,facings3 ,plain1 shirred1 and in folds4 #g4 ,bindings3 ,stretch1 puff1 and rolled4 #h4 ,plateaux3 ,plain and fancy4 #i4 ,making hats of straw1 silk1 chiffon1 maline1 and velvet4 #aj4 ,sewing trimmings on hats and sewing linings in hats4 #aa4 ,renovating3 ,ribbon1 velvet1 lace1 feathers1 flowers4 #ab4 ,machine work3 ,plain stitching1 tucking1 shirring1 bias strips stitched on material4 ,orders are taken for a limited amount of trimmed hats in order to provide the students with experience in preparing1 sewing on the trimming1 and in finishing the hat4 ,as millinery is a seasonal trade1 students are advised to take1 in addition1 lamp and candle shade making in the ,novelty ,department1 or straw sewing in the ,operating ,department4 ,they are thus provided with good trades during the months when their own trade is dull4 ,,novelty ,,department ,aim 7#a7 ,to teach the use of paste and glue in several good trades4 7#b7 ,a short course in lampshade and candleshade making for girls who have a dull season in their regular trade during ,november1 ,december1 and ,january4 ,lines of ,work ,sample mounting1 novelty work1 jewelry and silverware case making1 lampshade and candleshade making4 ,trades and ,wages ,sample mounting is pasting or gluing samples of all kinds of material on cards or in books to be used by salesmen in selling goods4 ,new ,york is a center for this class of work4 ,it gives year-round employment to many girls1 and offers wages from #e to #ae a week4 ,the simpler lines of sample mounting can be learned by almost any girl4 ,a bright student can learn this trade in six months4 ,novelty work is the covering and lining of cases and boxes with different materials4 ,girls can earn from #e to #ah a week1 and can learn the trade in from eight months to a year4 ,in jewelry and silverware case making the girls are taught both to cover and line up the cases2 they earn from #e to #ae a week4 ,it takes from eight months to a year to learn this trade4 ,lampshade and candleshade making3 ,a short course is offered to good sewers who wish to learn a line of work that will give them employment during ,november1 ,december1 and ,january1 which is the busy season in this occupation4 ,girls can earn from #a to #b a day4 ,it is a very good course for millinery workers1 as the work is similar and therefore easily learned1 and the slack time in millinery is the busy time in this trade4 ,course of ,work ,all pupils entering the ,novelty ,department take a short course in sample mounting to learn the use of paste and glue4 ,some are advanced soon to the novelty work1 while others continue in sample mounting1 taking up a greater variety of work along that line4 ,those entering for lamp and candle shade making do not take the sample mounting1 but come from the millinery or sewing classes1 where they have had some training with the needle4 ,interrelation with ,academic and ,art ,work ,in the academic classes the girls are drilled in measurements and have problems estimating the cost of materials and labor4 ,their discussions pertain to actual processes and materials used in the classes of the ,novelty ,department4 ,in the art classes the girls are trained to draw straight lines and square corners1 to miter corners1 to fold on a line1 to make good letters and figures1 and to appreciate good proportions and balance4 ,this work enables the student to arrange her samples in straight lines on the card1 with proper margins1 and to print neatly on the card the name of the materials and stock numbers4 ,the discussion of materials helps her to cut and place her materials on the cases so that the design will appear to the best advantage4 ,the color work aids her in choosing the best hues of ribbons or linings to use with the figured coverings4 ,orders ,where trade orders can be used without keeping the girls too long on the one problem1 they prove a great incentive and also help them to acquire speed4 ,private orders give more variety in the work1 and thus enable the girls to adjust themselves more easily to each season's new styles4 ,the private orders1 however1 being smaller in number1 do not help the students to acquire the speed that the repetition does in the large trade orders4 ,each kind of order work is used1 as it can be of advantage to the development of the student4 ,,art ,,department ,the courses of work in the ,art ,department are shaped according to the needs of each trade department4 ,various phases of work in dressmaking1 electric power operating1 novelty1 and millinery are made centers of interest4 ,each girl thus finds her art aiding her to be more valuable in her trade4 ,her enthusiasm is awakened and she is stimulated to self-expression directly along the line of her chosen work4 ,the entering students lack in the technical skill which can be used in their trades4 ,the first step1 therefore1 is to give the elementary exercises needed in their departments4 ,this is followed by more difficult and more artistic work as the student shows ability4 ,aims ,to help the work of the trade departments1 to improve the trade selected by each student1 to give ideals4 ,conditions ,time of average student in art1 seven months1 three hours per week4 ,previous art training little or none4 ,difficulties ,the students do not see or estimate correctly2 they are not exact1 and they lack ideals4 ,organization of ,art ,work ,i4 ,general course for all students1 connecting ,art ,department with ,trade ,courses4 ,approximate time1 three months1 three times a week4 #a4 ,principles of ,proportion3 ,measurements by ruler and free-hand4 ,related lines and sizes1 as in hems and margins4 #b4 ,general ,use of ,principles3 7#a7 ,horizontal1 vertical1 oblique lines for machine practice4 7#b7 ,related margins and spots as used in the writing of letters1 the orderly placing of subject on a page4 #c4 ,specific ,department ,work3 ,departments express their needs to ,art ,department4 7#a7 ,machine operating3 7a7 ,lines--horizontal1 vertical1 oblique1 for machine practice4 7b7 ,quilting1 banding1 practice for curves and square corners4 7#b7 ,sewing3 7a7 ,lines--horizontal1 vertical1 oblique1 for machine and hand practice and tailor basting4 7b7 ,hems1 tucks as prescribed by department and proportioned to garment4 7c7 ,constructive drawing--giving different angles and figures with a view toward an intelligent use of patterns for waists and skirts4 7d7 ,piecing bias and mitering corners4 7#c7 ,novelty3 7a7 ,lines--horizontal1 vertical1 oblique1 for sample mounting4 7b7 ,spacings for sample mounting4 7c7 ,letterings and figures for sample mounting4 7d7 ,margins for pasting different shaped labels and samples4 7e7 ,paper folding1 mitering corners4 7#d7 ,millinery3 7a7 ,lines--horizontal1 vertical1 oblique1 for hand sewing practice4 7b7 ,problems for proportions for the wire frames4 7c7 ,bias facings and mitered and square corners4 7d7 ,color4 ,students unable to benefit further by the ,art ,work are dropped from course and devote this time to their trade4 ,,ii4 ,supplementary course for students showing ability who have finished the prescribed departmental course4 ,approximate time1 seven to nine months4 #a4 ,machine ,operating3 7#a7 ,first step in designs1 arrangement of straight lines in borders1 and orderly arrangement of spots in borders4 7#b7 ,squared-off designs1 stenciling same1 for cordination4 7#c7 ,sample curved line designs1 continuous 7limitation of machine and for speed74 7#d7 ,patterns for practice work for the special machine4 7#e7 ,special workers to practice the exercises for the ,bonnaz machine4 7#f7 ,color--three charts4 7#g7 ,exercises for perforating4 #b4 ,sewing3 7#a7 ,simple designs for shirtwaists and for braiding4 7#b7 ,designs for revers1 cuffs1 vests1 and yokes4 7#c7 ,proportions of figure4 7#d7 ,copying from magazines for trade technicalities4 7#e7 ,discussions on dress for trade workers4 7#f7 ,color harmony in dresses and application4 #c4 ,millinery3 7#a7 ,sketching different views of the hats4 7#b7 ,sketching models4 7#c7 ,color harmonies and application4 7#d7 ,discussions on how art principles can be applied to hats of the present day4 #d4 ,novelty3 7#a7 ,simple1 squared-off designs stenciled for cordination for hand and head1 not gained in the trade work4 7#b7 ,simple illumination of words and phrases4 7#c7 ,the materials and decoration to be used for pads1 desk sets1 and boxes discussed and carried out4 ,in this supplementary course emphasis is put on the thought1 invention1 and appreciation of the student4 ,,iii4 ,special course for students who show unusual ability in art and can utilize it in trade4 #a4 ,costume sketching for making records in dressmaking workrooms4 #b4 ,stamping and perforating3 7a7 ,machine practice--pedaling1 guiding needle1 threading machine1 and learning to adjust the different parts4 7b7 ,stamping on different materials with the different mediums2 composition of the different mediums1 liquid and dry4 7c7 ,copying patterns for perforating2 nature study for motifs2 conventionalizing those to apply them to materials4 7,all designs are such as can be used in trade and are made according to trade methods47 ,,academic ,,department ,aim ,i4 ,elementary3 ,to supplement previous schooling4 ,girls who have left the public school from low grades need special tutoring in the common branches4 ,special instruction is also needed for newly arrived foreigners4 ,,ii4 ,trade3 ,to quicken and enrich the mind1 that the girl may become a more efficient1 intelligent1 and enthusiastic trade worker4 ,the work falls under the following subjects3 ,civics1 ,industries1 ,arithmetic1 ,english4 ,civics ,this course is given as a means of enabling the pupil to recognize her place in the family1 the school1 the community1 and in the world's work4 ,for lack of a better term it is called ,civics4 ,it is dealt with under two heads3 7#a7 ,community ,life in ,general1 7#b7 ,community ,life in ,new ,york ,city4 #a4 ,under the first head the discussion of life in a given community is followed by the simple facts that lie at the foundation of civic life4 ,these are approached through the interests or desires which the pupil feels in common with all other people4 ,building still further on the pupil's own experience1 she is led to apply the ideas received to her own community1 which ever widening its scope is carried from the neighborhood or the school to the city1 the state1 and on to the nation4 ,civics also gives to the pupils a knowledge of the existing laws under which they will work1 by whom these laws are made1 and the possible means for improving them4 ,in the discussion of such subjects as ,tenement ,house ,laws1 ,child ,labor ,laws1 and ,trade-,unions1 there is opportunity for the introduction of home and business economics which have been found to be valuable4 ,economics is further taught by the detailed discussion of the apportionment of an income of #f a week for fifty working weeks1 considering car fare1 lunches1 savings1 a portion toward family support1 and an allowance for clothes4 ,the literature for this course is obtained from the ,united ,states ,department of ,commerce and ,labor1 the ,state ,department of ,factory ,legislation1 the ,consumers' ,league1 the ,national and ,state ,labor ,committees1 and current magazines4 ,mr4 ,arthur ,m4 ,dunn's1 ,the ,community and the ,citizen1 especially such chapters as those on the ,making of ,americans1 ,how the ,government ,aids the ,citizen in ,his ,business ,life1 ,waste and ,saving1 ,what the ,community ,does for ,those ,who ,cannot or ,will ,not ,contribute to ,its ,progress1 has given valuable assistance in leading to discussions which have direct bearing upon daily life and work4 #b4 ,the following outline shows the treatment of the second division of ,civics3 ,new ,york ,city3 7#a7 ,city ,government1 7a7 ,officials1 ,mayor1 ,commissioner1 ,borough ,president1 ,aldermen2 7b7 ,city ,departments4 7#b7 ,citizenship1 7a7 ,who are citizens1 7b7 ,how to become a citizen1 7c7 ,duties and privileges of citizens1 7d7 ,aliens4 7#c7 ,child ,labor ,laws1 7a7 ,school attendance1 7b7 ,working papers1 how obtained1 7c7 ,hours for work4 7#d7 ,factory ,laws for girls over sixteen years old4 7#e7 ,sweatshop labor4 7#f7 ,tenement ,house ,laws4 7#g7 ,trade-,unions4 7#h7 ,commerce and ,industries of ,new ,york4 7#i7 ,philanthropies4 ,industries ,aim3 ,to furnish the worker with a background for her trade and to help her to see her place in the working world of today4 #a4 ,a generalized view is taken of the main steps in the early progress of the race4 #b4 ,textile materials are discussed as to their values1 their uses1 their cost1 the processes of their manufacture1 the comparison of foreign and domestic goods1 with reasons for the differences1 and the connected problems of arithmetic which the students will meet4 ,these subjects help the girl to get next to what she is working with every day and to arouse interest in her personal connection with the subject4 ,the ,english girl whose father was once employed in a lace house in ,london brings mounted specimens of that sort of handwork to the class2 the ,hungarian brings hand-spun articles from her mother's bridal outfit2 the ,italian presents a skein of raw silk taken from the family's treasure box1 and the girl from ,roumania brings an embroidered bed cover4 ,the student whose mother does not believe cotton ever grew on bushes asks that she may verify her own statement by taking home a real cotton ball4 ,a ,labor ,museum is being collected to give reality to the instruction1 and exhibits from it1 which show the steps in the manufacturing of the fabrics and of other familiar articles1 are put up in the classroom when needed4 ,a bulletin board provides for the numerous clippings brought by the students or teachers4 ,arithmetic ,aim3 ,the fundamental aim of arithmetic is to give the pupils working methods for the problems that occur in trade practice4 ,to make the correlation clear to the girls1 workroom methods of presentation and phraseology and the customary materials are used4 ,sewing and operating students make hems1 tucks1 and ruffles to actual measurements2 novelty girls cut and arrange cards for samples in accordance with their workroom demands2 and millinery students work out the measurements for hat frames as closely as varying styles permit4 ,with the fundamentals of trade problems established1 arithmetic is further developed along special lines of trade to meet the demands of the business world4 ,the trained worker should not only be skilled in the manipulation of tools and materials1 but she should be able to compute her own problems1 such as estimates for garments1 how to cut materials economically1 the cost of one garment or article as related to the cost of many of the same kind1 the prices1 and similar trade questions4 ,the ability to deal with these subjects adds materially to the value of a skilled worker4 ,the central scheme of the course is to lead the pupil to prompt and accurate mental calculation4 ,this is stimulated by frequent oral drills in trade problems and business problems involving short methods of computation4 ,the extent and progress of this work are regulated by the ability of the class4 ,the following outlines show the adaptation of arithmetic to the different trades3 ,operating3 7#a7 ,cutting of gauges1 7a7 ,for hems1 7b7 ,for tucks4 7#b7 ,tucking problems1 7a7 ,with gauges1 7b7 ,as formal arithmetic problems4 7#c7 ,ruffling problems4 7#d7 ,time problems1 ,department time schedules as basis for the work4 7#e7 ,factory problems4 7#f7 ,income1 expenditure1 savings4 7#g7 ,bills and receipts4 7#h7 ,computation of quantity of material required for garments1 7a7 ,by measuring garments1 7b7 ,by use of patterns on cloth1 7c7 ,economy of material4 7#i7 ,problems based on above work4 7#aj7 ,civic problems4 ,sewing3 7#a7 ,cutting of gauges1 7a7 ,for hems1 7b7 ,for tucks4 7#b7 ,tucking problems4 7#c7 ,ruffling problems4 7#d7 ,computation of quantity of material required for garments1 7a7 ,by measuring garments1 7b7 ,by use of patterns on cloth1 7c7 ,economy of material4 7#e7 ,problems based on above work4 7#f7 ,store problems4 7#g7 ,bills and receipts4 7#h7 ,income1 expenditures1 savings4 7#i7 ,textile problems4 7#aj7 ,civic problems4 ,novelty3 7#a7 ,sample mounting1 7a7 ,cards are cut a given size and are divided with the ruler into spaces for samples1 with proper margins1 etc41 according to trade demands1 7b7 ,problems involving the various sizes and shapes of cards and samples1 using cards and rulers for the work4 7#b7 ,sample cutting4 7#c7 ,cutting materials for boxes1 7a7 ,pulp board1 7b7 ,covering plain1 flowered1 7c7 ,economy of materials4 7#d7 ,problems based on above work4 7#e7 ,trade problems1 7a7 ,in sample mounting1 accuracy1 speed1 7b7 ,cost of materials4 7#f7 ,bills and receipts4 7#g7 ,income1 expenditure1 savings4 7#h7 ,civic problems4 ,millinery3 7#a7 ,measurement of frames4 7#b7 ,trade problems1 7a7 ,quantity of material1 7b7 ,price of materials1 7c7 ,economy of material4 7#c7 ,orders1 7a7 ,by letter1 7b7 ,by order blanks4 7#d7 ,bills and receipts4 7#e7 ,income1 expenditure1 savings4 7#f7 ,problems on manufacture of silk4 7#g7 ,civic problems4 ,english ,aim3 #a4 ,to facilitate oral and written expression4 #b4 ,to give practice in business forms3 ,spelling3 7#a7 ,technical terms of each trade department2 7#b7 ,textiles and other trade materials2 7#c7 ,ordinary business terms4 ,descriptions3 7#a7 ,written work on materials used and articles made in each department2 7#b7 ,outlining and defining of department work4 ,business ,forms3 7#a7 ,letters of application2 7#b7 ,letters ordering goods2 7#c7 ,telegrams1 postal cards1 etc42 7#d7 ,writing of advertisements4 ,in addition to practice in spelling and in the writing of business forms1 the work in ,english aims to be in close correlation with the other subjects taught4 ,as a rule1 the latter part of each recitation period is spent by the pupils in writing upon the subject in hand4 ,the purpose is to obtain from them freedom of expression after arousing interest in a subject1 rather than to get long compositions necessitating home study and probably generating a dislike for written work4 ,attention is called to paragraphing and emphasis is laid upon both the form and the manner of writing1 but form is made subservient to thought4 ,the interrelation of ,art ,department helps the student to appreciate the need of good form in the appearance of a written page4 ,,physical ,,education ,,department ,the young wage-earner who goes into trade untrained at fourteen years of age is greatly handicapped by her physical condition4 ,either through ignorance or neglect early symptoms of disease are disregarded1 and it is not until she finds herself out of employment as a result of physical weakness that she realizes that good health is the capital of the working girl4 ,many of the girls who enter the school are found to be suffering from poor vision2 enlarged glands caused by decayed teeth2 poor nasal breathing as a result of adenoid growths or enlarged tonsils2 anmia2 skin eruptions2 slight asymmetries and poor posture4 ,these defects produce exaggerated nerve signs and poor nutrition4 ,aim ,the work of the ,physical ,department is to correct as many of these irregularities as possible and also to train the student to a knowledge of her body and how to care for it1 that she may be able to stand the long hours of confining work and be able to show efficient results in her trade4 ,the following examination is required of each entering student3 ,physical ,examination3 ,beginning with the family history1 a complete record of all important events relating to a student's physical life is taken4 ,she is carefully examined for asymmetry2 curvature1 incipient or well defined2 traces of tuberculosis2 weakness of heart and lungs2 enlarged glands2 skin diseases1 or signs of nervous disorders4 ,she is closely questioned as to all bodily functions and a careful record is kept of irregularities4 ,eyes1 ears1 teeth1 nose1 and throat are likewise examined4 ,impressions of the feet are made in order to detect weakness of the arch or flatfoot4 ,measurements of height1 weight1 and the principal expansions are taken for comparison with later records and for the purpose of comparing with normal standard4 ,prescribed ,treatment ,after the examination the girl is instructed as to treatment1 if any is needed4 ,if perfectly normal she will report for gymnastics three times a week4 ,if any asymmetry1 curvature of the spine1 heart disease1 or nervous disorders are discovered1 she must report for special corrective exercises at the school4 ,in some cases individual instruction is given for supplementing the work at home4 ,cases demanding special apparatus and individual attention have been treated in the ,physical ,education ,department of ,teachers ,college1 through the kindness of the director1 ,dr4 ,thomas ,denison ,wood4 ,the girls so affected have thus the advantage of the latest methods known to science4 ,if any of the numerous skin diseases are present which demand frequent and regular attention1 the student is assigned to a group who go twice a week to a dispensary to receive electrical or ,x-ray treatment4 ,in cases of enlarged tonsils or adenoids1 the necessity for immediate operation is explained and every effort made to gain the consent of the parents4 ,when permission is obtained the girl goes to a neighboring hospital on ,sunday evening1 is operated upon on ,monday1 and returns home ,tuesday4 ,each student must have her eyes thoroughly examined by a doctor selected at the ,ophthalmic ,dispensary4 ,if glasses are needed they are procured at the expense of the parent or donated by an optician who is interested in the school4 ,dispensary treatment is also necessary in cases of catarrh of nose and throat4 ,teeth are carefully examined and the girls directed to their own dentists1 or to the ,dental ,dispensary adjoining the school1 where we are fortunate enough to have a limited amount of work done free of charge4 ,cases of asymmetry demanding braces1 plaster jackets1 and operations have been treated at the ,post-,graduate ,hospital4 ,tuberculosis cases in advanced stages have been placed on the special boats in ,new ,york ,harbor or are sent to ,tubercular ,camps in the country4 ,in sending girls to the hospitals and dispensaries the aim is to place them in touch with institutions to which they will have independent access after they leave the ,manhattan ,trade ,school4 ,statistics ,the statistics below show the condition of #bgh girls when they registered at the school4 ,the charts are divided according to the departments entered4 ,from them can be seen the need of special care for the health of the working girl4 ,dressmaking4 ,art4 ,millinery4 ,novelty4 ,operating4 ,total4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,nutrition ,good #aja #g #ae #bf #ce #ahd ,fair #ci #b #f #ah #fe ,poor #g #d #aj #h #bi ,mentality ,good #abb #g #ai #cc #dj #bba ,fair #ba #b #f #ag #df ,poor #d #c #d #aa ,nerve signs ,present #ci #c #f #ac #af #gg ,absent #ajh #d #ae #bi #de #bja ,asymmetry1 slight ,present #ec #d #ab #bc #bi #aba curvatures1 high ,absent #id #c #i #ai #cb #aeg hips or shoulders1 etc4 ,posture ,good #ic #d #h #bi #ca #afe ,fair #ed #c #ac #ac #cj #aac ,skin ,good condition #ie #e #ac #cb #dd #ahi ,acne1 comedones1 #eb #b #h #aj #ag #hi etc4 ,glands ,good condition #ff #c #aj #ai #bj #aah ,enlarged #ha #d #aa #bc #da #afj ,vision ,need glasses #dd #c #h #ab #ai #hf ,good condition #ajc #d #ac #cj #db #aib ,hearing ,defective #f #a #d #a #ab ,good #ada #f #ba #ch #fj #bff ,speech ,good #agj #g #bj #cg #ef #bfj ,defective #g #a #e #e #h ,nasal breathing ,good #cb #a #d #aj #ac #fj ,fair #eh #d #aa #ac #bh #aad ,poor #eg #b #f #ai #bj #ajd ,tonsils ,good #dd #a #f #g #ba #gi ,slightly enlarged #ge #b #aa #be #bd #acg ,much enlarged #bh #d #d #aj #af #fb ,teeth ,good #ajc #e #af #cj #dj #aid ,poor #dd #b #e #ab #ba #hd ,need attention #ajh #d #ab #ca #dj #aie ,hearts ,good #abb #d #ba #bc #dd #bad ,weak1 irritable1 #bd #b #ag #ac #ef or with anmic murmurs ,organic trouble #a #a #b #d #h ,lungs ,good #ach #e #bj #cf #eh #beg ,tuberculosis #c #b #e ,suspected #f #b #a #d #c #af tuberculosis ,feet ,good #abe #g #af #ch #ec #bci ,weak arches #aj #a #d #ae ,broken arches or #ab #d #d #d #bd flatfoot ,enlarged thyroid #ab #a #b #a #g #bc glands ,exophthalmic goiter #b #b #d ,chorea #b #b #a #e ,needing corrective #e #c #d #g #ai exercises ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,a second examination of the same girls six months later shows gain in weight1 height1 and general health2 #abe had their teeth put in order2 six were treated for defective hearing2 twenty had attended the ,skin ,clinic2 all had their eyes examined2 eighty-six were fitted with glasses4 ,in twenty-five cases where the adenoids and tonsils were removed the result was increase in weight1 better breathing and heart action1 alertness of mind1 and a noticeable improvement in trade work4 ,where the obstructions of nose and throat still remain there is loss in weight and diminished chest expansion and a generally weakened condition4 ,the extraction of decayed teeth and the providing of well-fitting glasses have diminished nervous irritability and the frequency of headaches4 ,three cases of tuberculosis were sent to camps4 ,seven cases of organic heart trouble were treated by specialists2 nineteen girls were given corrective exercises at ,teachers ,college2 two were fitted with shoes and braces2 two were put into plaster jackets1 one for lateral rotary curvature and one for neuritis2 and one advanced case of chorea has been placed in the hospital4 ,of the girls whose records are given in the list it can be said that1 with the exception of the cripples and a few others needing simple operations1 a year's care shows that very few of them are in any way handicapped by the effects of disease4 ,,physical ,,education ,,course ,i4 ,gymnastics3 #a4 ,elementary3 #c thirty-minute periods a week4 7#a7 ,swedish floor work for general posture2 7#b7 ,work in control of breathing2 7#c7 ,marching tactics for form and accuracy2 7#d7 ,light apparatus work3 7a7 ,wands1 7b7 ,dumb-bells1 7c7 ,indian clubs2 7#e7 ,heavy apparatus for cordination2 7#f7 ,simple dances and rhythm work for grace and poise2 7#g7 ,simple plays and games4 #b4 ,advanced3 #b forty-five-minute periods a week4 7#a7 ,gymnastic dances containing more than three figures2 7#b7 ,swedish and ,danish weaving dances in correlation with study of textiles 7,academic ,department72 7#c7 ,folk dances of ,sweden and ,russia for form2 7#d7 ,modern athletic dances for grace and poise2 7#e7 ,athletic ,competition3 7a7 ,running and jumping1 7b7 ,relay and obstacle races1 7c7 ,hockey and basket ball4 #c4 ,special corrective work for spinal trouble or poor position3 7#a7 ,general floor work for mobility2 7#b7 ,free-hand work3 7a7 ,single assistive and resistive exercises1 7b7 ,hanging exercises with and without assistance1 7c7 ,work with iron dumb-bells4 ,,ii4 ,hygiene3 ,talks on hygiene are a regular part of the work1 and aim to give each girl a knowledge of her body and of its functions that will enable her to care for her health in an intelligent manner and to establish in her mind ideals of correct living which can be made practical in her surroundings4 #a4 ,personal ,hygiene3 7#a7 ,brief survey of the body as a whole2 7#b7 ,the use of the mouth1 nose1 larynx1 trachea1 and lungs in breathing2 7#c7 ,care of nose and throat3 7a7 ,the nose as a source of infection1 7b7 ,dangers of enlarged tonsils and adenoids1 7c7 ,treatment of colds2 7#d7 ,structure and care of the teeth4 7#e7 ,the ,digestive ,system3 7a7 ,organs directly concerned1 and 7b7 ,their care1 7c7 ,disorders of the ,digestive ,system2 7#f7 ,the ,nervous ,system1 ,brain1 and ,spinal ,cord2 7#g7 ,the ,skin1 7a7 ,structure and ,use1 7b7 ,hygiene of ,skin2 7#h7 ,heart and ,blood ,vessels2 7#i7 ,the ,hair2 7#aj7 ,the ,ears2 7#aa7 ,the ,eyes2 7#ab7 ,the ,feet2 7#ac7 ,the ,hygiene of ,clothes4 #b4 ,domestic ,hygiene3 ,construction and furnishing of ,home3 7a7 ,internal arrangement1 walls1 and coverings1 7b7 ,ventilation1 7c7 ,heating1 7d7 ,lighting1 7e7 ,water ,supply1 7f7 ,plumbing and ,drainage1 7g7 ,toilet rooms1 7h7 ,disposal of ,garbage and ,ashes1 7i7 ,house ,cleaning1 sweeping1 dusting1 cleaning1 and use of disinfectants4 #c4 ,foods3 7#a7 ,nutritive value of foods2 7#b7 ,purity of food materials2 7#c7 ,cooking--,cooking utensils2 7#d7 ,planning of meals4 #d4 ,diseases3 7#a7 ,causes and ,transmission2 7#b7 ,contagious diseases1 care1 prevention2 7#c7 ,hygiene of sick room2 7#d7 ,insects and vermin2 7#e7 ,infectious diseases4 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,minor typographical errors have been corrected without note4