file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #bdfhb-;h4htm or #bdfhb-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ d_/f_/h_/bdfhb_/bdfhb-;h_/#bdfhb-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ d_/f_/h_/bdfhb_/bdfhb-;h4zip7 ,,quilts ,their ,story and ,how to ,make ,them by ,,marie ,d4 ,,webster ,illustration ,illustrated ,garden ,city ,new ,york ,doubleday1 ,page ,company #aiaf ,illustration3 ,,indiana ,,wreath ,made in #aheh4 ,colours3 red1 green1 yellow1 and pink ,copyright1 #aiae1 by ,doubleday1 ,page ,company ,all rights reserved1 including that of translation into foreign languages1 including the ,scandinavian ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,introduction xv ,i4 ,patchwork in ,antiquity #c ,,ii4 ,patchwork and ,quilting ,during the ,middle ,ages #af ,,iii4 ,patchwork and ,quilting in ,old ,england #cd ,,iv4 ,the ,quilt in ,america #fj ,v4 ,how ,quilts ,are ,made #hi ,,vi4 ,quilt ,names #aae ,,vii4 ,quilt ,collections and ,exhibitions #acc ,,viii4 ,the ,quilt's ,place in ,american ,life #adi ,list of ,quilt ,names1 ,arranged ,alphabetically #afi ,list of ,references #agg ,,list ,,of ,,colour ,,plates ,indiana ,wreath ,frontispiece ,,facing ,,page 99,the ,bedtime ,quilt #bd ,the ,iris ,design #dj ,morning ,glories #ef ,daisy ,quilt #gb 99,poppy ,design #hf 99,the ,sunflower ,quilt #ajb ,pink ,rose ,design #abj 99,the ,wind-blown ,tulip ,design #acd ,golden ,butterflies and ,pansies #adj ,the ,snowflake ,quilt ,design #adf 99,the ,dogwood ,quilt #aej ,the ,wild ,rose #aef 99,morning ,glory #afj 99,keepsake ,quilt #afd 99 ,made by ,marie ,webster4 ,,list ,,of ,,black ,,and ,,white ,,illustrations ,,facing ,,page ,section of ,funeral ,tent of an ,egyptian ,queen1 ,made in a ,patchwork of ,coloured ,goatskins #d ,old ,english ,appliqu #e ,fifth ,century ,appliqu #f ,armenian ,patchwork3 ,st4 ,george and the ,dragon #g ,persian ,quilted ,linen ,bath ,carpet3 ,seventeenth ,century #aj ,old ,english ,hanging with ,appliqu ,figures #aa ,modern ,egyptian ,patchwork3 ,four ,cushion ,covers #ab ,modern ,egyptian ,patchwork3 ,panels for ,screens #ac ,modern ,egyptian ,patchwork3 ,panels for ,wall ,decoration #af ,double ,nine ,patch #ag ,pieced ,baskets #bj ,bedroom1 ,cochran ,residence1 ,deerfield1 ,mass4 #ba ,jacob's ,ladder #bh ,conventional ,tulip #bi ,old ,german ,appliqu1 ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york #cb ,double ,x #cc ,puss-in-the-,corner #cd ,tea ,leaves #ce ,feather ,star #ch ,drunkard's ,path #ci ,star of the ,east #db ,white ,quilt with ,tufted ,border1 ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york #dc ,sunburst and ,wheel of ,fortune #df ,tree of ,paradise #dg ,old ,bed and ,trundle ,bed #dh ,two ,white ,tufted ,bedspreads #di ,tufted ,bedspread with ,knotted ,fringe #eb ,unknown ,star #ec ,combination ,rose #ed ,double ,tulip #ee ,princess ,feathers #eh ,princess ,feathers with ,border #ei ,peonies #fj ,north ,carolina ,lily #fa ,feather ,star with ,appliqu #fd ,tulip ,tree ,leaves #fe ,mexican ,rose #ff ,currants and ,cockscomb #fg ,conventional ,appliqu #gj ,single ,tulip #ga ,ohio ,rose #gd ,rose of ,sharon #ge ,original ,floral ,designs #gh ,conventional ,tulip #gi ,conventional ,rose #hj ,conventional ,rose ,wreath #ha ,poinsettia #hd ,whig ,rose #he ,harrison ,rose #ib ,detail of ,harrison ,rose1 ,showing ,quilting #ic ,original ,rose ,design #if ,pineapple ,design #ig ,virginia ,rose #ajj ,rose of ,le,moine #aja ,charter ,oak #ajh ,puffed ,quilt of ,silk #aji ,variegated ,hexagon1 ,silk #aab ,roman ,stripe1 ,silk #aac ,american ,log ,cabin1 ,silk and ,wool #aaf ,democrat ,rose #aag ,original ,rose ,no4 #c #abd ,white ,quilt1 ,stuffed ,designs #abe ,white ,quilt #abh ,old ,ladies ,quilting #abi ,quilts on a ,line #acf 99,grapes #acg 99 ,made by ,marie ,webster4 ,,illustrations ,,in ,,text ,,quilting ,,designs ,,page ,single ,diagonal ,lines #ic ,double ,diagonal ,lines #ic ,triple ,diagonal ,lines #ic ,diamonds #ii ,hanging ,diamonds #ii ,broken ,plaid #ii ,rope #ajd ,shell #ajd ,fan #ajd ,feathers in ,bands #aje ,feathers in ,waved ,lines #aje ,feathers in ,circles #aje ,three ,original ,quilting ,designs from ,old ,quilts #ajh ,design from an ,old ,english ,quilt #aab ,medallion ,design #aab ,pineapple #aab ,,introduction ,although the quilt is one of the most familiar and necessary articles in our households1 its story is yet to be told4 ,in spite of its universal use and intimate connection with our lives1 its past is a mystery which--at the most--can be only partially unravelled4 ,the quilt has a tradition of long centuries of slow but certain progress4 ,its story is replete with incidents of love and daring1 of sordid pilferings and generous sacrifices4 ,it has figured in many a thrilling episode4 ,the same type of handiwork that has sheltered the simple peasant from wintry blasts has adorned the great halls of doughty warriors and noble kings4 ,humble maids1 austere nuns1 grand dames1 and stately queens2 all have shared in the fascination of the quilter's art and have contributed to its advancement4 ,cottage1 convent1 and castle2 all have been enriched1 at one time or another1 by the splendours of patchwork and the pleasures of its making4 ,in its suitability for manufacture within the home1 the quilt possesses a peculiar merit4 ,although exposed for a full century to the competition of machinery1 under the depressing influence of which most of the fireside crafts have all but vanished1 the making of quilts as a home industry has never languished4 ,its hold on the affections of womankind has never been stronger than it is to-day4 ,as a homemaker1 the quilt is a most capable tool lying ready at the hand of every woman4 ,the selection of design1 the care in piecing1 the patience in quilting2 all make for feminine contentment and domestic happiness4 ,there are more quilts being made at the present time--in the great cities as well as in the rural communities--than ever before1 and their construction as a household occupation--and recreation--is steadily increasing in popularity4 ,this should be a source of much satisfaction to all patriotic ,americans who believe that the true source of our nation's strength lies in keeping the family hearth flame bright4 ,as known to-day1 the quilt is the result of combining two kinds of needlework1 both of very ancient origin1 but widely different in character4 ,patchwork--the art of piecing together fabrics of various kinds and colours or laying patches of one kind upon another1 is a development of the primitive desire for adornment4 ,quilting--the method of fastening together layers of cloths in such a manner as to secure firmly the loose materials uniformly spread between them1 has resulted from the need of adequate protection against rigorous climates4 ,the piecing and patching provide the maker with a suitable field for the display of artistic ability1 while the quilting calls for particular skill in handling the needle4 ,the fusing of these two kinds of needlework into a harmonious combination is a task that requires great patience and calls for talent of no mean order4 ,to our grandmothers quilt making meant social pleasure as well as necessary toil1 and to their grandmothers it gave solace during long vigils in pioneer cabins4 ,the work of the old-time quilters possesses artistic merit to a very high degree4 ,while much of it was designed strictly for utilitarian purposes--in fact1 more for rugged service than display1 yet the number of beautiful old quilts which these industrious ancestors have bequeathed to us is very large4 ,every now and then there comes to light one of these old quilts of the most exquisite loveliness1 in which the needlework is almost painful in its exactness4 ,such treasures are worthy of study and imitation1 and are deserving of careful preservation for the inspiration of future generations of quilters4 ,to raise in popular esteem these most worthy products of home industry1 to add to the appreciation of their history and traditions1 to give added interest to the hours of labour which their construction involves1 to present a few of the old masterpieces to the quilters of to-day2 such is the purpose of this book of quilts4 ,marion1 ,indiana ,march #ah1 #aiae4 ,,quilts ,,their ,,story ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them ,,chapter ,i ,,patchwork ,,in ,,antiquity ,the origin of the domestic arts of all nations is shrouded in mystery4 ,since accurate dates cannot be obtained1 traditional accounts must be accepted4 ,the folklore of any country is always exceedingly interesting and generally has a few kernels of fact imbedded somewhere in its flowers of legend1 although some of our most familiar household objects are not even mentioned by tradition4 ,spinning and weaving1 however1 are very generously treated in the mythology and folklore of all nations4 ,nearly every race has some legend in which claim is made to the discovery of these twin arts4 ,in ,biblical lore ,naa-mah1 a sister of ,tubal ,cain1 belonging to the seventh generation after ,cain1 is said to have invented both spinning and weaving4 ,this tradition is strengthened by the assertions of some historians that the ,phrygians were the oldest of races1 since their birthplace was in ,armenia1 which in turn is credited with having the ,garden of ,eden within its boundaries4 ,the ,chinese also can advance very substantial claims that primeval man was born with eyes aslant4 ,they at least have a fixed date for the invention of the loom4 ,this was in #bfdj ,b4 ,c4 by ,lady of ,si-,ling1 the wife of a famous emperor1 ,huang-ti4 ,the ,egyptians who1 according to their traditions1 sprung from the soil1 and who despised the ,greeks for their late coming into the human arena1 were probably quite as ancient as the ,phrygians4 ,it is known positively that in the wonderful valley of the ,nile there has lived for more than six thousand years a race remarkable for its inventive faculties and the developing of the industrial arts4 ,in the first dawn of human progress1 while his nomadic neighbours roamed carefree about him1 the ,egyptian toiled steadily1 and left the records of his achievements beside his ,god1 the ,nile4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,of ,,funeral ,,tent ,,of ,,an ,,egyptian ,,queen ,made in a patchwork of coloured goatskins ,illustration3 ,,old ,,english ,,appliqu ,figure of a knight on horseback4 ,thirteenth century ,when investigating any subject1 the ability to see the actual thing itself is more helpful than pages of description4 ,in ,egypt are preserved for us thousands of wonderful tombs which serve as storehouses of facts concerning the early civilization of this land4 ,the mummy wrappings reveal very distinctly the development of the textiles and decorative arts4 ,the ,egyptians1 since the earliest historical times1 were always celebrated for their manufacture of linen1 cotton1 and woollen cloths1 and the products of their looms were eagerly sought by surrounding nations4 ,the fine linen and embroidered work1 yarns and woollen fabrics of both upper and lower ,egypt1 were held in the highest esteem4 ,sir ,j4 ,gardner ,wilkinson1 in his history of ,ancient ,egypt1 tells of their knowledge of dyeing and of the nature of the fabrics found in the tombs3 ,the quantity of linen manufactured and used in ,egypt was very great2 and1 independent of that made up into articles of dress1 the numerous wrappers required for enveloping the mummies1 both of men and animals1 show how large a supply must have been kept ready for the constant demand at home as well as for that of the foreign market4 ,the actual experiments made1 with the aid of powerful microscopes 444 on the nature of the fibres of linen and cotton threads1 have shown that the former invariably present a cylindrical form1 transparent1 and articulated1 or joined like a cane1 while the latter offer the appearance of a flat riband1 with a hem or border at each edge2 so that there is no possibility of mistaking the fibres of either1 except1 perhaps1 when the cotton is in an unripe state1 and the flattened shape of the centre is less apparent4 ,the results having been found similar in every instance1 and the structure of the fibres thus unquestionably determined1 the threads of mummy cloths were submitted to the same test1 and no exception was found to their being linen1 nor were they even a mixture of linen and cotton4 ,another very remarkable discovery of the ,egyptians was the use of mordants4 ,they were acquainted with the effect of acids on colour1 and submitted the cloth they dyed to one of the same processes adopted in our modern manufactories2 and while1 from his account1 we perceive how little ,pliny understood the process he was describing1 he at the same time gives us the strongest evidence of its truth4 ,illustration3 ,,fifth ,,century ,,appliqu ,illustration3 ,,armenian ,,patchwork ,illustrating the story of ,st4 ,george and the dragon1 and other ,christian subjects ,in ,egypt1 he says1 they stain cloths in a wonderful manner4 ,they take them in their original state1 quite white1 and imbue them1 not with a dye1 but with certain drugs which have the power of absorbing and taking colour4 ,when this is done1 there is still no appearance of change in the cloths2 but so soon as they are dipped into a bath of the pigment1 which has been prepared for the purpose1 they are taken out properly coloured4 ,the singular thing is1 that though the bath contains only one colour1 several hues are imparted to the piece1 these changes depending on the natures of the drug employed2 nor can the colour be afterward washed off2 and surely if the bath had many colours in it1 they must have presented a confused appearance on the cloth4 ,the ability of the ,egyptians to have a variety of colours for use in their embroideries and patchworks contributed much to the beauty of these arts4 ,embroidery in various forms1 applied to all sorts of objects1 was commonly practised throughout ancient ,egypt1 and the ,israelites1 at the time of the ,exodus1 carried their knowledge of the textile arts with them to ,india4 ,ezekiel in chapter twenty-seven1 verse seven1 in telling of the glories of ,tyre1 says3 ,of fine linen with broidered work ,egypt was thy sail1 that it might be to thee for an ensign4 ,in ,de ,bello ,judaico1 by ,flavius ,josephus1 another reference is made to ancient needlework3 ,when ,herod the ,great rebuilt the temple of ,jerusalem nineteen years before our era1 he was careful not to omit in the decoration of the sanctuary the marvels of textile art which had been the chief embellishment of the tabernacle during the long wanderings in the desert4 ,before the doors of the most sacred place he hung a ,babylonian tapestry fifty cubits high by sixteen wide3 azure and flax1 scarlet and purple were blended in it with admirable art and rare ingenuity1 for these represented the various elements4 ,scarlet signified fire2 linen1 the earth2 azure1 the air2 and purple1 the sea4 ,these meanings were derived in two instances from similarity of colour3 in the other two from their origin1 the earth yielding linen and the sea purple4 ,the whole range of the heavens1 except the signs1 was wrought upon this veil or hanging4 ,the porticos were also enriched with many coloured tapestries ornamented with purple flowers4 ,there is very meagre information concerning the character and style of tapestry in ,egypt during the rule of the ,pharaohs4 ,,mm4 ,perrot and ,chipiex1 in their ,histoire de l',art dans l',antiquit1 publish a painting containing a hanging of purely ornamental design formed of circles1 triangles1 and palm leaves reversed4 ,wilkinson describes an ,egyptian hanging--an original1 not a reproduction--found in an ,english collection3 ,in the centre1 on a green ground1 stands a boy in white1 with a goose beside him2 and around this centre a border of red and blue lines2 then white figures on a yellow ground2 again blue lines and red ornaments2 and lastly red1 white1 and blue embroideries4 ,this is a very ancient example of true applied work combined with embroidery4 ,in the ,psalms it is said that ,pharaoh's daughter shall be brought to the king in a raiment of needlework and that her clothing is of wrought gold4 ,the huge columns1 bas-reliefs1 and the various architectural details of the early ,egyptian buildings were all decorated in vivid colours4 ,the interiors of their temples were also covered with gayly coloured scenes which have preserved for us a most extensive knowledge of their life and customs4 ,their mummy cases were painted in the most brilliant hues1 and often the wrappings of the mummies themselves bore brightly coloured portraits of the deceased4 ,since the ,egyptians lived in an atmosphere of brilliant colour1 with ever-shining sun1 the bluest of skies1 and the purple glow of the desert always before them1 it is not surprising that they used their brushes with lavish hand4 ,every plane surface called for ornamentation1 whether on temple or shroud4 ,their pigments1 both mineral and vegetable1 were remarkable for their permanence4 ,the crude and childish way in which the ,egyptians applied their paint in distinct patches would lead one to believe that patchwork was included in their earliest needlework1 even if no actual proof existed4 ,but all nations have at some period used the needle to copy the masterpieces of great artists4 ,the ,english1 as a typical example of this spirit of imitation1 sought on a background of cloth of gold to embroider the saints from the canvas of ,fra ,angelico4 ,also the ,french1 in the manufacture of their tapestries1 copied the works of many of the old masters4 ,positive proof of the existence of patchwork1 or as some choose to call it1 applied work1 in ,egypt at a very early period is found on a robe belonging to an early sovereign4 ,this article of apparel was of linen and1 in general design1 resembled a modern apron4 ,according to ,wilkinson1 it was richly ornamented in front with lions' heads and other devices1 probably of coloured leather2 and the border was formed of a row of asps1 the emblem of royalty4 ,sometimes the royal name with an asp on each side was embroidered upon it4 ,illustration3 ,,persian ,,quilted ,,linen ,,bath ,,carpet ,seventeenth century ,illustration3 ,,old ,,english ,,hanging ,,with ,,appliqu ,,figures ,the most ancient example of patchwork is a coloured gazelle hide presented in the ,museum of ,cairo4 ,the colours of the different pieces of skin are bright pink1 deep golden yellow1 pale primrose1 bluish green1 and pale blue4 ,this patchwork served as the canopy or pall of an ,egyptian queen about the year #ifj ,b4 ,c4 ,she was the mother-in-law of ,shishak1 who besieged and captured ,jerusalem shortly after the death of ,solomon4 ,on its upper border this interesting specimen has repeated scarabs1 cartouches with inscriptions1 discs1 and serpents4 ,the lower border has a central device of radiating lotus flowers2 this is flanked by two narrow panels with cartouches2 beyond these are two gazelles facing toward the lotus device4 ,next to the gazelles on each side is a curious detail consisting of two oddly shaped ducks1 back to back2 then come the two outer compartments of the border1 each of which enclose a winged beetle1 or scarabus1 bearing a disc or emblem of the sun4 ,the other main division of the field is spotted in regular order with open blossom forms4 ,there is decided order in the repetition and arrangement of these details1 which gives a rather stiff and formal look to the whole design4 ,to-day ,egyptians are making patchwork that is undoubtedly a development of the very art practised in the days of ,ptolemy1 ,rameses1 and ,cleopatra4 ,they do not use their patchwork to adorn quilts1 since these are unknown in the warm ,nile valley1 but as covers for cushions1 panels for screens1 and decorations suitable for wall hangings4 ,generally but two kinds of material are employed in its construction3 a rather loosely woven cotton cloth1 and a firm1 coarse linen4 ,the cottons used are all gayly dyed in plain colours1 and the linens are in the natural shades1 with perhaps a slight mixture of white4 ,the patchwork designs are typically ,egyptian1 many pieces being covered with replicas of paintings found on tombs and temples4 ,these paintings are copied as faithfully in colour as in design1 even the hieroglyphics being exactly reproduced1 and altogether make very striking and effective decorations4 ,illustration3 ,,modern ,,egyptian ,,patchwork ,four cushion covers ,illustration3 ,,modern ,,egyptian ,,patchwork ,panels for screens ,the modern ,egyptians have the innate taste and ability of all ,orientals for harmonizing colour4 ,their universal use of black to outline and define most of the designs produces a beautiful harmony between otherwise clashing hues4 ,with nearly as many shades at their disposal in cloth as a painter has in paint1 they are quite ambitious in their attempts to produce realistic scenes4 ,on some of the best specimens of modern ,egyptian patchwork gods and goddesses are shown sitting enthroned surrounded by attendants and slaves bearing trophies of war and chase as offerings to the divine beings4 ,on others1 groups of men and women are shown1 humbly presenting salvers of fruit and the sacred flower--the lotus--to their gods4 ,some of the most effective work is decorated with a simple life-size figure of ,osiris or ,rameses the ,great in brilliant colours4 ,a few of the more subdued patchwork designs consist of a solitary scarab1 the sacred beetle of the ,pharaohs1 or an asp or two gracefully entwined4 ,the smaller pieces make practical and admirable cushion covers4 ,there are many attractive shops in ,cairo that sell quantities of this gay patchwork1 and few tourists leave ,egypt without a specimen or two as mementoes of the paintings that give us a glimpse of ,egypt's ancient splendour4 ,while among the ancient ,greeks and ,romans all the arts of the needle were held in the greatest esteem1 comparatively little attention was paid to the adornment of their sleeping apartments4 ,accounts of early ,greek houses state that1 while the bedchambers were hung all about with curtains and draperies1 these were usually of plain fabrics with little attempt at decoration4 ,of patchwork or appliqu1 as known to the ,egyptians and ,hebrews1 the ,greeks and ,romans have left us no trace4 ,however1 as substantiating the regard shown for needlework by the ,greeks and ,romans1 the following two pleasing myths have come down to us3 one1 the ,story of ,arachne1 as related by ,ovid2 the other from the ,odyssey of ,homer4 ,arachne1 a most industrious needleworker1 had the audacity to contest against ,pallas1 the goddess of the art of weaving4 ,with her bobbins1 ,arachne wove such wonderful pictures of the ,loves of the ,gods that ,pallas1 conscious of having been surpassed by a mortal1 in an outburst of anger struck her4 ,arachne1 humiliated by the blow1 and unable to avenge it1 hanged herself in despair4 ,whereupon the goddess relented1 and with the intention of gratifying ,arachne's passionate love of weaving1 transformed her into a spider and bade her weave on forever4 ,the other interesting incident of ancient times is that of ,penelope's patient weaving4 ,it is related that1 after one short year of wedded happiness1 her husband ,ulysses was called to take part in the ,trojan ,war4 ,not a single message having been received from him by ,penelope during his long absence1 a doubt finally arose as to his being still alive4 ,numerous suitors then sought her hand1 but ,penelope begged for time and sought to put them off with many excuses4 ,one of her devices for delay was that of being very busy preparing a funeral robe for ,ulysses' father4 ,she announced that she would be unable to choose another husband until after this robe was finished4 ,day after day she industriously wove1 spending patient hours at her loom1 but each night secretly ravelled out the product of her day's labour4 ,by this stratagem ,penelope restrained the crowd of ardent suitors up to the very day of ,ulysses' return4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,patchwork ,,and ,,quilting ,,during ,,the ,,middle ,,ages ,in the early days of ,christianity the various organizations of the mother church took a deep interest in all the textile arts1 and we are indebted to the ecclesiastical orders for what progress was made in needlework during the beginning of the ,middle ,ages4 ,the makers of church hangings and vestments were stimulated by thoughts of the spiritual blessings with which they were assured their work would be rewarded4 ,much of this early ecclesiastic needlework is extremely elaborate and was always eagerly desired by the holy orders4 ,at one time the craze for gorgeous vestments reached such an extreme that we have record of one worthy bishop chiding his priests because they carried their religion on their backs instead of in their hearts4 ,illustration3 ,,modern ,,egyptian ,,patchwork ,panels for wall decoration ,illustration3 ,,double ,,nine ,,patch ,made in ,ohio in #ahjh4 ,colours3 blue and white1 and beautifully quilted ,the artistic needlework of the ,christian era consists almost entirely of embroidery2 no positive reference to patchwork or quilting being found in western ,europe prior to the time of the ,crusades4 ,but with this great movement1 thousands of the most intelligent men in ,europe1 urged by religious enthusiasm combined with love of adventure1 forced their way into eastern countries whose culture and refinements of living far surpassed their own4 ,the luxuries which they found in ,syria were eagerly seized and carried home to all the western lands4 ,returning ,crusaders exhibited fine stuffs of every description that roused the envy of all who obtained a glimpse of them4 ,a vigorous commerce with the east was immediately stimulated4 ,from ,syria merchants brought into ,italy1 ,spain1 and ,france silks and cottons to supplement the native linen and wool1 and also many kinds of embroidered work of a quality much finer than ever known before4 ,as a result dyeing1 weaving1 and needlework entered on an era of great development4 ,previous to the eleventh century so memorable in the history of the ,crusaders1 references to quilting and patchwork are few and uncertain1 but from that time on these twin arts became more and more conspicuous in the needlecraft of nearly every country in western ,europe4 ,this is explained by the stimulus which was given to these arts by the specimens of appliqu hangings and garments brought from ,syria1 where the natives wrought for centuries the identical applied work carried into ,palestine from ,egypt in ,biblical times by the ,hebrews and the ,phoenicians4 ,about the earliest applied work of which we have record were the armorial bearings of the ,crusaders4 ,a little later came rather elaborate designs applied to their cloaks and banners4 ,among other specimens of ,old ,english needlework is a piece of applied work at ,stonyhurst ,college depicting a knight on horseback4 ,that this knight represents a ,crusader is beyond question since the cross1 the insignia of the cause1 is a prominent figure in the ornamentation of the knight's helmet and shield1 and is also prominent on the blanket on the horse4 ,noticeable progress in the arts of both quilting and appliqu was made during the ,middle ,ages in ,spain4 ,spanish women have always been noted for their cleverness with the needle1 and quite a few of the stitches now in use are credited to them4 ,at the time of ,king ,ferdinand and ,queen ,isabella1 applied work had long been known4 ,whether it developed from imitating garments brought home by the returning ,crusaders1 or was adopted from the ,moors1 who gave the best of their arts to ,spain during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries1 cannot be positively stated4 ,however1 it is worthy of notice that whenever the ,christian came in contact with the ,moor1 a great advance in the textile arts of the former could generally be observed4 ,this holds true even down to this day1 our eagerness to possess the rugs of ,turkey and ,afghanistan1 and the imitation of these designs in the manufacture of domestic carpets1 being a case in point4 ,during the reign of ,king ,philip ,,ii1 #aebg-aeih1 the grandees of the ,spanish court wore beautifully wrought garments1 rich with applied work and embroidery4 ,a sixteenth-century hanging of silk and velvet appliqu1 now preserved in ,madrid1 is typical of the best ,spanish work4 ,it is described as having a gray-green silk foundation1 on which are applied small white silk designs outlined with yellow cord2 alternating with the green silk are bands of dark red velvet with ornamented designs cut from the green silk1 and upon which are small pieces of white silk representing berries4 ,also1 another handsome specimen of ,spanish applied work of the seventeenth century is a linen curtain richly embellished with heraldic emblems couched with gold thread4 ,horse trappings and reposters1 loaded with appliqu flowers cut from gold and silver cloth1 were much in evidence among the ,spanish nobility of this period4 ,of particular interest1 as showing how oriental quilting designs filtered into ,europe through the intercourse of the early ,portuguese traders and missionaries with the ,east ,indies1 is the brief mention by ,margaret ,s4 ,burton of a very elaborate old quilt now in a ,new ,york collection3 ,my next find was a tremendous bed quilt which is used as a portire for double folding doors4 ,it formed part of a collection of hangings owned by the late ,stanford ,white4 ,he claimed there were only four of its kind in existence1 and this the only one in ,america4 ,it is valued at #a1jjj4 ,it is a ,portuguese bed quilt and was embroidered centuries ago by the ,portuguese missionary monks sent to ,india4 ,they were commissioned by their queen to embroider them for her to present as wedding gifts to her favourite ladies-in-waiting4 ,on account of intricacy and originality of design this quilt represents years of patient work4 ,it is hand embroidered in golden coloured floss upon a loosely woven linen which had been previously quilted very closely4 ,the work is in chain stitch1 and there are at least fifty different stitch patterns4 ,in the centre panel is the sacred cat of ,india4 ,doves bearing olive branches1 pomegranates1 daisies1 and passion flowers are intermingled in the beautiful design4 ,illustration3 ,,pieced ,,baskets ,a design much used by the old-time quilt makers4 ,this quilt1 which is about #he years old1 is unusual1 in that the baskets are so small ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,bedroom ,cochran residence1 ,deerfield1 ,mass41 showing colonial bedstead with quilt and canopy ,while the uses of patchwork were known over ,europe long before the ,renaissance1 some credit its introduction1 into ,italy at least1 to the ,florentine painter1 ,botticelli 7#addf-aeaj74 ,the applied work1 or thought work1 of the ,armenians so appealed to him that he used it on hangings for church decoration4 ,under his influence the use of the applied work1 opus conservetum1 for chapel curtains and draperies was greatly extended4 ,in time these simple patchwork hangings were supplanted by the mural paintings and tapestries now so famous4 ,there are still in existence some rare pieces of ,italian needlework of the sixteenth century having designs of fine lace interspersed among the embroidered appliqu of silk4 ,a homely cousin of the gorgeous opus conservetum1 which has filled its useful though humble office down to the present day1 is the heavy quilted and padded leather curtain used in many ,italian churches in lieu of a door4 ,many of the church doors are too massive and cumbersome to be opened readily by the entering worshippers1 so they are left constantly open4 ,leather hangings often several inches thick and quilted with rows of horizontal stitches rather widely spaced1 are hung before the open doorways4 ,even these curtains are often quite stiff and unyielding1 so that holding back corners for the passage of both worshipper and tourist forms a favourite occupation for numerous beggars4 ,appliqu1 described as opus consutum1 or cut work1 was made in ,florence and ,venice1 chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes1 during the height of their glory in the fifteenth century4 ,one such piece of ,florentine cut work is remarkable for its great beauty and the skill shown in bringing together both weaving and embroidery4 ,much of the architectural accessories is loom wrought1 while the extremities of the evangelists are all done by the needle2 but the head1 neck1 and long beard are worked by themselves upon very fine linen1 and afterward put together in such a way that the full white beard overlaps the tunics4444 ,for the sake of expedition1 all the figures were sometimes at once shaped out of woven silk1 satin1 velvet1 linen1 or woollen cloth1 and sewed upon the grounding of the article4444 ,sometimes the cut work done in this way is framed1 as it were1 with an edging either in plain or gilt leather1 hempen or silken cord1 like the leadings of a stained-glass window4 ,gold and silver starlike flowers1 sewn on appliqu embroideries1 were common to ,venice and also southern ,germany in the fifteenth century4 ,belonging to the ,italian ,renaissance period are some marvellous panels1 once part of a curtain1 which are now preserved in the ,south ,kensington ,museum in ,london4 ,the foundation of these panels is of beautiful blue damask having applied designs cut from yellow satin4 ,these hangings are described as being very rich in effect and unusually handsome1 and nothing in the annals of needlework of their period was more glorious4 ,a very ingenious patchwork1 originating in ,italy during the sixteenth century and peculiar to that country and ,spain1 consisted of patterns designed so as to be counter hanging4 ,for example1 if one section of a length of such patchwork consisted of a blue satin pattern on a yellow velvet ground1 the adjoining section would1 through the interchange of materials1 consist of a yellow velvet pattern on a blue satin ground4 ,the joints of the patching were overlaid with cord or gimp1 stitched down so as to conceal them entirely and give definition to the forms constituting the pattern4 ,italian needleworkers were very fond of this transposed appliqu upon two fabrics1 especially when composed of designs of foliage conventionally treated1 or of arabesques and scrolls4 ,on a piece of old ,milanese damask1 figured with violet on violet1 appear designs in appliqu cut from two shades of yellow satin4 ,these are remarkable for their powerful relief1 suggesting sculpture rather than embroidery1 and have been pronounced worthy of the best masters of their time--namely1 that period so rich in suggestions of ornament--the seventeenth century4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bedtime ,,quilt ,with its procession of night-clad children will be excellent company for a tot1 to whom a story may be told of the birds that sleep in the little trees while the friendly stars keep watch ,closely related to patchwork1 but not as commonly used1 is inlay4 ,in the making of this style of decoration one material is not laid on to another1 but into it4 ,it is the fitting together of small sections of any desired fabric in a prearranged design4 ,for convenience1 all the pieces are placed upon a foundation of sufficient firmness1 but which does not appear when the work is finished4 ,ornamental stitches conceal the seams where the edges meet1 and it is especially adapted for making heraldic devices4 ,during the ,renaissance it was much used by both ,spaniards and ,italians1 who learned the art from the ,moors4 ,an example of quilting1 attributed to the ,island of ,sicily about the year #adjj1 is described as being a ground of buff-coloured linen4 ,the raised effect is obtained by an interpadding of wool1 and the designs are outlined in brown thread4 ,this entire coverlet is embroidered with scenes from the life of ,tristan1 who frequently engaged in battle against ,king ,langair1 the oppressor of his country4 ,this bit of quilting hangs in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum in ,london4 ,another hanging of the fourteenth century1 belonging to the same collection1 shows a spirited naval battle between galleys4 ,a striking peculiarity of this hanging is that floral designs are scattered in great profusion among the boats of the combatants4 ,a patchwork made by the application of bits of leather to velvet was extensively used in some ,european countries during the ,middle ,ages4 ,as leather did not fray and needed no sewing over at the edge1 but only sewing down1 stitching well within the edge gave the effect of a double outline4 ,this combination of leather and velvet was introduced from ,morocco4 ,a wonderful tent of this leather patchwork1 belonging to the ,french king1 ,franois ,i1 was taken by the ,spanish at the battle of ,pavia 7#aebe71 and is still preserved in the armoury at ,madrid4 ,some of the very finest specimens of the quilting of the ,middle ,ages have been preserved for us in ,persia4 ,here the art1 borrowed at a very early period from the ,arabs1 was developed in an unusual and typically oriental manner4 ,prayer rugs1 carpets1 and draperies of linen1 silk1 and satin were among the products of the ,persian quilters4 ,we are indebted to ,mr4 ,alan ,s4 ,cole for the following description of a seventeenth-century ,persian quilted bath carpet1 now preserved at the ,south ,kensington ,museum in ,london4 ,this typical ,persian embroidery is a linen prayer or bath carpet1 the bordering or outer design of which partly takes the shape of the favourite ,persian architectural niche filled in with such delicate scrolling stem ornament as is so lavishly used in that monument of sixteenth-century ,mohammedan art1 the ,taj ,mahal at ,agra4 ,in the centre of the carpet beneath the niche form is a thickly blossoming shrub1 laid out on a strictly geometric or formal plan1 but nevertheless depicted with a fairly close approach to the actual appearance of bunches of blossoms and of leaves in nature4 ,but the regular and corresponding curves of the stems1 and the ordered recurrence of the blossom bunches1 give greater importance to ornamental character than to any intention of giving a picture of a tree4 ,similar stems1 blossoms1 and leaves are still more formally and ornamentally adapted in the border of the carpet1 and to fill in the space between the border and the niche shape4 ,the embroidery is of chain stitch with white1 yellow1 green1 and red silks4 ,but before this embroidery was taken in hand the whole of the linen was minutely stitched4 ,worthy of mention is a patchwork panel made in ,resht1 ,persia1 in the eighteenth century3 ,the foundation ground is of ivory coloured cloth1 and applied to it1 almost entirely covering the ivory background1 are designs cut from crimson1 cinnamon1 pink1 black1 turquoise1 and sapphire coloured cloths1 all richly embroidered in marigold and green silk4 ,the following is a quilt anecdote1 typically oriental1 which contains a bit of true philosophy4 ,it seems that the hero1 ,nass-ed-,din ,hodja1 was a ,turkish person who became chief jester to the terrible ,tamerlane during his invasion of ,asia ,minor4 ,he was also the hero1 real or imaginary1 of many other stories which originated during the close of the fourteenth and the beginning of the fifteenth centuries4 ,his tomb is still shown at ,akshekir4 ,the story is given entire as it appeared in ,turkey of the ,ottoman by ,l4 ,m4 ,garnett3 ,,how ,,the ,,hodja ,,lost ,,his ,,quilt ,one winter's night1 when the ,hodja and his wife were snugly asleep1 two men began to quarrel and fight under the window4 ,both drew knives and the dispute threatened to become serious4 ,hearing the noise1 the ,hodja's wife got up1 looked out of the window and1 seeing the state of affairs1 woke her husband1 saying3 ',great heavens1 get up and separate them or they will kill each other4' ,but the ,hodja only answered sleepily3 ',wife1 dear1 come to bed again2 on my faith there are no men in the world2 ,i wish to be quiet2 it is a winter's night4 ,i am an old man1 and perhaps if ,i went out they might beat me4' ,the ,hodja's wife was a wise woman4 ,she kissed his hands and his feet4 ,the ,hodja was cross and scolded her1 but he threw the quilt about him1 went downstairs and out to where the disputants were1 and said to them3 ',for the sake of my white beard cease1 my sons1 your strife4' ,the men1 in reply1 pulled the quilt from the ,hodja's shoulders and made off with it4 ',very well1' observed the old man4 ,he rentered1 locked the door1 and went upstairs4 ,said his wife3 ',you did very well to go out to those men4 ,have they left off quarrelling8' ',they have1' replied the ,hodja4 ',what were they quarrelling about1 ,hodja8' ',fool1' replied the ,hodja1 'they were quarrelling for my quilt4 ,henceforward my motto shall be1 ,beware of serpents4' ,illustration3 ,,jacob',s ,,ladder ,one of the most striking of the quilts having ,biblical names4 ,colours3 blue and white ,illustration3 ,,conventional ,,tulip ,made in ,ohio about #ahdj4 ,beautifully quilted in medallions and pineapples of original design4 ,colors3 red1 pink1 and green ,appliqu1 or applied work1 has never been used in ,france to the same extent as in ,england1 even though the ,french name appliqu is more frequently used than any other4 ,however1 there is one striking example of appliqu work1 of ,rhenish or ,french origin1 now hanging in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum in ,london4 ,this realistic patchwork represents a fight between an armoured knight mounted on a high-stepping white horse and a ferocious dragon4 ,the designs are arranged in a fashion similar to the blocks in a modern quilt1 and depict several scenes showing the progress of the combat4 ,there is also a border covered closely with figures of monks1 knights1 and ladies4 ,an extract from ,first ,steps in ,collecting1 by ,grace ,m4 ,vallois1 gives an interesting glimpse of an old ,french attic4 ,an object of great interest to us is the old1 unfinished quilt she discovered there3 ,a rummaging expedition in a ,french grenier yields more treasures than one taken in an ,english lumber room4 ,the ,french are more conservative2 they dislike change and never throw away anything4 ,among valuable antiques found in the grenier of a ,louis ,,xv house in the ,pyrenees were some rare curtains of white linen ornamented with designs cut from beautiful old chintz2 the edges of the applied designs were covered with tightly twisted cotton cord4 ,also1 in the same room1 in a drawer of an old chestnut-wood bureau1 was found an unfinished bed quilt very curiously worked4 ,it was of linen with a filling of rather soft cotton cord about an eighth of an inch wide4 ,these cords were held in place by rows of minute stitching of white silk1 making the bedcover almost solid needlework4 ,besides the quilting there were at rather wide intervals conventional flowers in peacock shades of blue and green silk executed in chain stitch4 ,when found1 the needle was still sticking in one of the flowers1 and many were traced ready for work4 ,the traced lines appear to have been made with ,india ink and were very clear and delicate4 ,what caused the abrupt interruption of the old quilt no one can tell4 ,it is possible that the great terror of #agic caused the patient maker to flee from her unfinished task4 ,in the countries of northern ,europe there is scarcely any record concerning the art of quilting and patchwork1 and little can be said beyond the fact that both existed in some form or other4 ,in ,germany the quilt so familiar to us is practically unknown4 ,in the past appliqu was very little used1 except as cut work1 or opus consutum1 in blazonments and heraldic devices4 ,the thick feather beds of medieval ,germany were covered with various kinds of thick comforts filled with either wool or feathers1 and sometimes sparsely quilted4 ,the only decoration of the comfort consisted of a band of ornamental work1 ten to twenty inches wide1 usually worked in cross-stitch design with brightly coloured yarns4 ,these bands were generally loose upon the comfort1 one edge being held down by the pillow1 but occasionally they were sewed to the edge of the bedcover4 ,in a work on arts and crafts relating to their presence in ,sweden1 it is written that woven hangings were used to decorate the timbered walls of the halls of the vikings4 ,they were hung over the temples1 and they decorated the timber sepulchres of the dead4 ,when the timbered grave of the ,danish queen1 ,fyra ,danabode1 who died about #iej1 was opened1 remains of woven woollen cloth were found4 ,as far back as ,swedish records go it can be shown that ,swedish women wove and sewed figured material4 ,illustration3 ,,fine ,,example ,,of ,,old ,,german ,,appliqu ,now in the ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,illustration3 ,,double ,x ,a modern quilt4 ,colours3 blue and white ,on account of the cold there is urgent need of wall hangings1 and they are used extensively throughout ,scandinavia4 ,on festive occasions the stiff1 cold appearance of ,swedish peasants' homes is transformed by the gay wall coverings to one of hospitality and warmth4 ,the hangings used are made of linen1 either painted or embroidered in bright colours4 ,the painted ones are especially interesting as they depict many historical scenes4 ,allegorical and religious subjects are also used to decorate many of these linen hangings4 ,the ,swedes are very patriotic1 and on their wall hangings show all the saints clad in typical ,swedish costumes4 ,the apostles wear ,swedish jack boots1 loose collars1 and pea jackets2 and ,joseph1 as governor of ,egypt1 is shown wearing a three-cornered hat and smoking a pipe4 ,there is a valuable collection of ,swedish needlework in the ,northern ,museum of ,stockholm1 dating from #afci to the nineteenth century4 ,among this collection there are a few small pieces of applied work3 some cushions1 glove gauntlets1 and a woman's handbag4 ,it is possible that patchwork was used more extensively than the museum's display would indicate1 but since large pieces are very rarely found1 patchwork was evidently not held in the same esteem as embroidery and painting4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,patchwork ,,and ,,quilting ,,in ,,old ,,england ,in searching for the beginning of needlework in ,england1 the first authentic date revealed relating directly to this subject is #gji1 when the ,bishop of ,sherborne writes of the skill ,englishwomen had attained at that time in the use of the needle4 ,preserved in various museums are some examples of ,anglo-,saxon embroidery of uncertain date1 that are known to have been made before the ,bishop of ,sherborne's time4 ,mention should also be made of the wonderful ,bayeux ,tapestry4 ,this ancient piece is #bbg feet long and twenty inches wide1 and is of great historical interest1 in that it illustrates events of ,english history from the accession of ,edward the ,confessor to the ,english defeat at ,hastings by the ,normans in #ajff4 ,there is some doubt as to whether this tapestry1 which has the characteristic of typical appliqu--namely1 the absence of shading--is actually of ,english workmanship1 but it is unquestionably of ,anglo-,saxon origin4 ,it was first hung in ,bayeux ,cathedral in #adgf4 ,illustration3 ,,puss-,,in-,,the-,,corner ,a beautifully quilted design made about #ahee4 ,colours3 a dull green calico having small red flowers and white ,illustration3 ,,tea ,,leaves ,a quaint old design combining a pieced block with an applied leaf stem4 ,colours3 green and white ,it is a generally accepted fact that appliqu and embroidery are closely related and of about equal age1 although relatively few examples of the former are preserved in collections of needlework4 ,one of the oldest authentic bits of appliqu is at ,stonyhurst ,college4 ,it represents a knight clad in full armour1 mounted on a spirited galloping horse4 ,the horse is covered with an elaborately wrought blanket and has an imposing ornament on his head4 ,the knight wears a headdress of design similar to that of the horse and1 with arm uplifted and sword drawn1 appears about to attack a foe4 ,this work is well done1 and the pose of both man and horse shows spirit4 ,it is said to have been made during the thirteenth century4 ,preserved to us from this same period is the tattered fragment of a coat worn by ,edward1 the ,black ,prince1 and which now hangs over his tomb in ,canterbury ,cathedral4 ,with it are the helmet and gauntlets he wore and the shield he carried4 ,the coat is of a red and blue velvet1 now sadly faded1 applied to a calico background and closely quilted4 ,it is too elaborate to have been made to wear under his armour1 and was probably worn during state functions where armour was not required1 although it was then customary to wear thickly padded and quilted coats and hoods in order to ease the weight of the heavy and unyielding coats of mail4 ,much of the best needlework in ,england at this early period was for the church4 ,neither labour nor expense was spared to make the magnificent decorations used in the old cathedrals4 ,aside from the linens1 silks1 and velvets used in this construction1 much gold and silver bullion was wrought into the elaborate altar hangings1 altar fronts1 and ecclesiastical vestments4 ,in their ornamentation applied work was freely used1 especially on the large hangings draped over the altar4 ,it was during the earliest period that the ,latin name opus consutum was commonly used to designate patchwork4 ,chain stitch also was much used on early ,english embroidery2 to such an extent that it is now of great service as an identification mark to fix the dates of medieval needlework4 ,chain stitch was dignified by the ,latin name opus anglicanum4 ,only the most elaborate and richest of embroideries have been preserved2 the reason being that much of the work was done with silver and gold threads which were in reality fine wires of these precious metals4 ,being exceedingly costly1 they were given unusual care1 many being kept with the royal plate and jewels4 ,one specimen made in #ije by ,aelfled1 the queen of ,edward1 the ,elder1 is now treasured in ,durham ,cathedral4 ,it is described as being of almost solid gold thread1 so exquisitely embroidered that it resembles a fine illuminated manuscript1 and is indescribably beautiful4 ,in many instances the fabrics of these old embroideries have partly fallen away1 leaving only frail fragments of the original material held together by the lasting threads of gold and silver4 ,the great amount of precious metals used in making the richest garments and hangings sometimes made them objects to be desired by avaricious invaders4 ,in an inventory of the contents of ,cardinal ,wolsey's great palace at ,hampton ,court there are mentioned1 among many other rare specimens of needlework of that period1 #bcj bed hangings of ,english embroidery4 ,none of them is now in existence1 and it is supposed that they were torn apart in order to fill the coffers of some vandal who preferred the metal in them to their beauty as hangings4 ,among the sumptuous furnishings belonging to the ,tudor period1 applied work held a prominent place4 ,vast spaces of cold palace walls were covered by great wall hangings1 archways were screened1 and every bed was enclosed with curtains made of stoutly woven material1 usually more or less ornamented4 ,this was before the advent of ,french tapestry1 which later supplanted the ,english appliqu wall draperies4 ,the ,tudor period was also the time when great rivalry in dress existed4 ,the esquire endeavoured to outshine the knight1 the knight the baron1 the baron the earl1 the earl the king himself1 in the richness of his apparel4 ,illustration3 ,,feather ,,star ,made about #ahej4 ,colours3 blue and white ,illustration3 ,,drunkard',s ,,path ,a modern quilt after an old pattern4 ,colours3 light blue and white ,in direct contrast to the long inventories of beautiful and valuable clothing1 bedcovers1 and hangings of the rich1 are the meagre details relating to the life and household effects of the landless ,english peasant4 ,in all probability he copied as far as he was able some of the utilities and comforts used by his superiors4 ,if he possessed a cover for his bed1 it was doubtless made of the cheapest woven material obtainable4 ,no doubt the pieced or patched quilt contributed materially to his comfort4 ,in ,arts and ,crafts in the ,middle ,ages1 ,julia de ,wolf ,addison describes a child's bed quilt included in an inventory of furniture at the ,priory in ,durham in #addf1 which was embroidered in the four corners with the ,evangelistic symbols4 ,in the ,squier of ,lowe ,degree1 a fifteenth-century romance1 there is allusion to a bed of which the head sheet is described as embroidered with diamonds and rubies bright4 ,it was during the gorgeous reign of ,henry ,,viii that the finest specimens of combined embroidery and patchwork1 now preserved in various museums1 were made4 ,it was really patch upon patch1 for before the motives were applied to the foundation they were elaborately embroidered in intricate designs2 and after being applied1 they had their edges couched with gold and silver cord and ornate embroidery stitches4 ,mrs4 ,lowes relates in ,old ,lace and ,needlework that1 during the time of ,henry ,,viii1 embroidery1 as distinct from garment making1 appeared2 and every article of wearing apparel became an object worthy of decoration4 ,much fine stitching was put into the fine white undergarments of that time1 and the overdresses of both men and women became stiff with gold thread and jewels4 ,much use was made of slashing and quilting1 the point of junction being dotted with pearls and precious stones4 ,noble ladies wore dresses heavily and richly embroidered with gold1 and the train was so weighty that train bearers were pressed into service4 ,in the old paintings the horses belonging to kings and nobles wear trappings of heavily embroidered gold4 ,even the hounds1 which are frequently represented with their masters1 have collars massively decorated with gold bullion4 ,mary1 ,queen of ,scots1 was devoted to the needle and was expert in its use4 ,it is said that while in ,france she learned lace making and embroidery4 ,many wall hangings1 bed draperies1 bedcovers1 and house linens are the work of her skilful fingers1 or were made under her personal direction4 ,a number of examples of her work are now owned by the ,duke of ,devonshire4 ,it is said also that many of the ,french costumes and laces of her wardrobe were appropriated by ,queen ,elizabeth1 who had little sympathy for the unfortunate queen4 ,as a solace during long days of loneliness1 ,queen ,mary found consolation in her needle1 as have many women of lower degree before and since her unhappy time4 ,she stands forth as the most expert and indefatigable of royal needleworkers4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,iris ,,design ,in this design the iris has been conventionalized so as to make it consistent with its natural growth--the flowers stretching up in a stately array beyond their long-pointed leaves ,hardwick ,hall is intimately associated with ,queen ,mary's life1 and is rich in relics of her industry4 ,in one room named for her there are bed curtains and a quilt said to be her own work4 ,extracts from old letters relating to her conduct during captivity show how devoted she was to her needlework4 ,an attendant1 on being asked how the queen passed her time1 wrote1 that all day she wrought with her nydil and that the diversity of the colours made the work seem less tedious and that she contynued so long at it that veray payn made hir to give over4 ,this shows that fatigue alone made her desist from her beloved work4 ,there is a very interesting fragment of a bed hanging at ,hardwick ,hall said to have been made by ,queen ,mary4 ,it is of applied patchwork1 with cream-coloured medallions curiously ornamented by means of designs singed with a hot iron upon the light-coloured velvet4 ,the singed birds1 flowers1 and butterflies are outlined with black silk thread4 ,the worked medallions are applied to a foundation of green velvet1 ornamented between and around them with yellow silk cord4 ,this is only one of a number of examples of curious and beautiful patchwork still in existence and attributed to the ,tudor period4 ,queen ,elizabeth herself was not devoted to needlework1 but judging from the accounts of the gorgeous costumes which she delighted to wear1 she was one of its greatest patronesses4 ,it is said that at her death she left one of the most extensive wardrobes of history3 in it were more than a thousand dresses1 which were most voluminous in style and elaborately trimmed with bullion1 pearls1 and jewels4 ,before the precious stones were applied1 her garments were solidly covered with gold and silver quilting and embroidery1 which made them so heavy as to be a noticeable burden even for this proud and ambitious queen4 ,in ,berkeley ,castle1 as prized mementoes of ,queen ,elizabeth1 are five white linen cushions beautifully embroidered with silver threads and cherry-coloured silk4 ,also with them is the quilt1 a wonderful piece of needlework1 that matches the hangings of the bed wherein she slept4 ,illustration3 ,,star ,,of ,,the ,,east ,elaborate pineapple quilting designs in the corners4 ,colours3 red and white ,illustration3 ,,white ,,quilt ,,with ,,tufted ,,border ,now in ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,the magnificence of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign gave great impetus to all kinds of needlework4 ,france at that time led in the development of fine arts1 and furnished many of the skilled workmen employed by the nobility solely as embroiderers4 ,there seemed to be no limit to the ambitions of these workers1 and the gorgeous results of their labours were beyond anything attempted after them4 ,to those who wish to study the work of the ,tudor period1 ,hardwick ,hall is recommended as the place where the best specimens have been preserved4 ,to ,elizabeth1 daughter of ,john ,hardwick1 born in #aebj1 and so poor that her marriage portion as the bride of the ,earl of ,shrewsbury was only thirty pounds1 credit is given for the richness of this collection4 ,she was a woman of great ability in the management of her estates1 became very wealthy1 and gave employment to many people4 ,included among her dependents were many needleworkers who plied their trade under rigorous administration4 ,elizabeth of ,shrewsbury was a hard mistress1 but not above doing an occasional bit of needlework herself1 for some pieces bearing her initials and done with remarkable skill are preserved in the collection4 ,she1 as much as any ,englishwoman1 fostered and developed applied patchwork along the ambitious line of pictorial needlework4 ,in ,hardwick ,hall are several hangings of pictorial needlework that are very interesting4 ,one of black velvet has a picture of a lady strongly resembling ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,she carries a book in her hand and at her feet reclines a turbaned ,turk4 ,in the background is an ecclesiastical hanging which is embroidered to represent a cathedral window4 ,the realistic effect of the whole picture is gained by the use of coloured silks cut in correct proportions and applied to the velvet foundation2 very little embroidery entering into the main composition4 ,another hanging1 also of black velvet1 has an even more ambitious design4 ,it is described by ,m4 ,jourdain in ,the ,history of ,english ,secular ,embroidery as follows3 ,the ornamentation on the black velvet is with appliqu in coloured silks consisting of figures under arches4 ,in the centre is ',lucrecia1' on the left ',chastite1' and on the right ',liberalitas4' ,the oval panel on the right contains a shield bearing the arms of ,hardwick4 ,at each end of the hanging are fluted ,ionic columns1 and a decorated frieze is carried across the top4 ,the figures have grace and beauty2 the drapery of their robes falls in natural folds2 and altogether it is a remarkable picture to have been made with patches4 ,that this fine collection of medieval needlework is preserved for the admiration of people to-day is due to the faithful execution of the ,countess of ,shrewsbury's will1 in which she left all her household furnishings1 entailed as heirlooms1 to always remain in her ,house of ,hardwick4 ,in the interesting ,hardwick collection are pieces of beautiful needlework known to have been used by ,mary1 ,queen of ,scots1 during the years she spent as a prisoner at ,tutbury4 ,her rooms there1 furnished in regal splendour1 are still kept just as she arranged them4 ,the ,earl of ,shrewsbury was her custodian1 and his wife1 the countess1 often sat and sewed with the unfortunate queen1 both making pastime of their needlework4 ,during the ,middle ,ages appliqu was in universal use1 and not confined merely to wall hangings1 quilts1 and bed draperies4 ,it was used to ornament all kinds of wearing apparel1 including caps1 gloves1 and shoes4 ,special designs were made for upholstery1 but because of the hard wear imposed upon stools and chairs but few specimens of this work have been preserved4 ,quilting also came into vogue in the making of bedspreads1 of which great numbers were required during the winter nights in the poorly heated bedrooms4 ,the quilts intended for service were made of substantial1 well-wearing material4 ,none of these strictly utilitarian quilts is left1 but they were certainly plentiful4 ,the old chroniclers give us a glimpse of what the women of these days cherished by telling us that in #aedj ,katherine ,howard1 afterward wife of ,henry ,,viii1 was presented with twenty-three quilts of ,sarsenet1 closely quilted1 from the ,royal ,wardrobe4 ,tradition says that1 during the reign of ,henry ,,viii1 the much used and popular black work or ,spanish work was introduced into ,england by his ,spanish wife1 ,catherine of ,aragon4 ,it has been found that this work did not originate in ,spain but was taken there probably by the ,moors or by the ,crusaders1 for it is known to have been perfected at a very remote period in both ,persia and ,china4 ,the following interesting description of black work is from ,mrs4 ,lowes' ,chats on ,old ,lace and ,needlework3 ,illustration3 ,,sunburst ,,and ,,wheel ,,of ,,fortune ,comparatively modern quilts4 ,colours3 blue and white ,illustration3 ,,tree ,,of ,,paradise ,made in ,indiana over #ge years ago4 ,colours3 red and green ,the work itself was a marvel of neatness1 precision1 and elegant design1 but the result cannot be said to have been commensurate with the labour of its production4 ,more frequently the design was of scrollwork1 worked with a fine black silk back stitching or chain stitch4 ,round and round the stitches go1 following each other closely4 ,bunches of grapes are frequently worked solidly1 and even the popular peascod is worked in outline stitch1 and often the petit point period lace stitches are copied1 and roses and birds worked separately and afterward stitched to the design4 ,there are many examples of this famous ,spanish work in the ,south ,kensington ,museum in ,london4 ,quilts1 hangings1 coats1 caps1 jackets1 smocks1 are all to be seen1 some with a couched thread of gold and silver following the lines of the scrolls4 ,this is said to be the ,spanish stitch referred to in the old list of stitches1 and very likely may be so1 as the style and manner are certainly not ,english2 and we know that ,catherine of ,aragon brought wonders of ,spanish stitchery with her1 and she herself was devoted to the use of the needle4 ,the story of how1 when called before ,cardinal ,wolsey and ,campeggio1 to answer to ,king ,henry's accusations1 she had a skein of embroidery silk round her neck1 is well known4 ,the black silk outline stitchery on linen lasted well through the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,very little of it is seen outside the museums1 as1 not being strikingly beautiful or attractive1 it has been destroyed4 ,another phase of the same stitchery was working cotton and linen garments1 hangings and quilts in a kind of quilted pattern with yellow silk4 ,the finest materials were used1 the padding being placed bit by bit into its place4 ,the quilting work was made in tiny panels1 illustrating shields and other heraldic devices1 and had a surface as fine as carved ivory4 ,when1 as in the case of one sample at ,south ,kensington1 the quilt is additionally embroidered with fine floss silk flowers1 the effect is very lovely4 ,one interesting feature of black work and similar flat embroideries was their constant use in decorating furnishings for the bedroom4 ,it was peculiarly well adapted for quilts1 as its rather smooth surface admirably resisted wear4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,bed ,,with ,,quilt ,,and ,,canopy ,,and ,,trundle ,,bed ,,beneath ,now in ,memorial ,hall1 ,deerfield1 ,mass4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,white ,,tufted ,,bedspreads ,both made in ,pennsylvania about #ajj years ago ,fashions in needlework changed1 but not with the same rapidity as in clothing4 ,gradually ideas and customs from other countries crept into ,england and new influences were felt4 ,an established trade with the ,orient brought ,eastern products to her markets1 and oriental designs in needlework became popular4 ,about this time crewel was much in vogue4 ,this was embroidery done with coloured woollen threads and was a step backward in the art4 ,some of this crewel work1 done in the seventeenth century1 is described by ,m4 ,jourdain in ,english ,secular ,embroidery3 ,these hangings1 bed curtains1 quilts1 and valances are of linen or a mixture of cotton and linen1 and one type is embroidered with bold1 freely designed patterns in worsted4 ,they are worked almost always in dull blues and greens mixed with more vivid greens and some browns1 but rarely any other colouring4 ,a very curious custom of these days was the use of mourning beds1 with black hangings1 coverlets1 and even sheets4 ,as these funereal articles of furniture were quite expensive1 it was a friendly custom to lend these mourning beds to families in time of affliction4 ,in #afdd ,mrs4 ,eure wrote to ,sir ,ralph ,verney3 ,sweet ,nephew1 ,i am now overrun with miserys and troubles1 but the greatest misfortune that could happen to me was the death of the gallantest man 7her husband7 that ,i ever knew4 ,whereupon ,sir ,ralph1 full of sympathy1 offers her the loan of the great black bed and hangings from ,claydon4 ,interesting indeed are descriptions of wonderful old quilts that are now guarded with zealous care in ,english museums4 ,one1 an original and striking design1 is closely quilted all over in small diamonds4 ,upon it is embroidered an orange tree in full leaf and loaded with fruit4 ,this tree1 together with the fancy pot in which it is planted1 covers practically the entire quilt4 ,in the lower corners a gentleman is shown picking oranges and a lady in a patient attitude is waiting to receive them1 the figures of both being scarcely taller than the flower pot4 ,the whole design is made up of gayly coloured silks evidently worked in after the quilting was done4 ,mention is also made of an elaborate quilt said to be the work of ,queen ,anne1 which is preserved at ,madresfield ,court4 ,sarah1 ,duchess of ,marlborough1 in giving an order for house furnishings for her wild1 unmerciful house about #agbj1 asks for a vast number of feather beds1 some filled with swansdown1 and a vast number of quilts4 ,mrs4 ,delany1 who lived from #agjj to #aghh1 and left a large correspondence relating to needlework1 which was later edited by ,lady ,llanover1 was a most prolific worker with her needle as well as a profuse letter writer4 ,she was often quoted as an authority and given credit for much originality in her designs4 ,a quilt that she made is described as follows3 ,of white linen worked in flowers1 the size of nature1 delineated with the finest coloured silks in running stitch1 which is made use of in the same way as by a pen etching on paper2 the outline was drawn with pencil4 ,each flower is different1 and evidently done at the moment from the original4 ,another quilt of ,mrs4 ,delany's was made upon a foundation of nankeen4 ,this was unique in that no colours were used besides the dull yellow of the background4 ,applied designs of leaves tied together with ribbons1 all cut from white linen and stitched to the nankeen with white thread1 made a quilt no wise resembling the silken ones of earlier periods4 ,this quilt may be termed a forerunner of the vast array of pieced and patched washable quilts belonging to the nineteenth century4 ,the embroidering of quilts followed the process of quilting1 which afforded the firm foundation essential for heavy and elaborate designs4 ,there were many quilts made of white linen quilted with yellow silk thread1 and afterward embroidered very tastefully with yellow silk floss4 ,terry1 in the history of his ,voyage to the ,east ,indies1 made about the middle of the seventeenth century1 says3 ,the natives show very much ingenuity in their manufactures1 also in making excellent quilts of their stained cloth1 or of fresh-coloured taffeta lined with their prints1 or of their satin with taffeta1 betwixt which they put cotton wool1 and work them together with silk4 ,among many articles in a list of ,eastern products1 which ,charles ,i1 in #afca1 permitted to be brought to ,england1 were quilts of ,china embroidered in ,gold4 ,there is a possibility that these quilts were appreciated quite as much for the precious metal used in the embroidery as for the beauty of design and workmanship4 ,it was but a short time after this that women began to realize how much gold and silver had gone into all forms of needlework4 ,they looked upon rare and beautiful embroidery with greedy eyes1 and a deplorable fashion sprang up1 known in ,france as parfilage and in ,england as drizzling4 ,this was nothing more or less than ripping up1 stitch by stitch1 the magnificent old hangings1 quilts1 and even church vestments1 to secure gold and silver thread4 ,lady ,mary ,coke1 writing from the ,austrian ,court1 says3 ,all the ladies who do not play cards pick gold4 ,it is the most general fashion ,i ever saw1 and they all carry their bags containing the necessary tools in their pockets4 ,they even begged sword knots1 epaulettes1 and galons that they might add more of the precious threads to the spool on which they wound the ravelled bullion1 which they sold4 ,to the appreciative collector this seems wanton sacrilege4 ,illustration3 ,,tufted ,,bedspread ,,with ,,knotted ,,fringe ,a design of very remarkable beauty4 ,over #ajj years old ,illustration3 ,,unknown ,,star ,a ,new ,england quilt about #aae years old4 ,colours3 once bright red and green are now old rose and dull green4 ,the original quilting designs are very beautiful ,john ,locke1 #afcb-agjd1 a very famous man of ,charles ,,ii's time1 and one of the greatest philosophers and ardent champions of civil and religious rights which ,england ever produced1 mentioned quilts in his ,thoughts ,concerning ,education4 ,in telling of the correct sort of beds for children he writes as follows3 ,let his ,bed be hard1 and rather ,quilts than ,feathers4 ,hard ,lodging strengthens the ,parts1 whereas being buryed every ,night in ,feathers melts and dissolves the ,body4444 ,besides1 he that is used to hard ,lodging at ,home will not miss his ,sleep 7where he has most ,need of it7 in his travels ,abroad for want of his soft ,bed1 and his ,pillows laid in ,order4 ,pepys1 a contemporary of ,locke1 in his incomparable and delicious ,diary1 remarks3 ,home to my poor wife1 who works all day like a horse1 at the making of her hanging for our chamber and bed1 thus telling us that he was following the fashion of the day in having wall1 window1 and bed draperies alike4 ,it is plain1 too1 by his frequent and so to bed1 that his place of sleep and rest was one of comfort in his house4 ,a quilt depending solely upon the stitching used in quilting1 whether it be of the simple running stitch1 the back stitch1 or the chain stitch1 is not particularly ornamental4 ,however1 when viewed at close range1 the effect is a shadowy design in low relief that has a distinctive but modest beauty when well done4 ,early in the eighteenth century a liking for this fashion prevailed1 and was put to a variety of uses4 ,frequently there was no interlining between the right and wrong sides4 ,at ,canons ,ashby there are now preserved some handsome quilted curtains of this type1 belonging to ,sir ,alfred ,dryden1 ,baronet4 ,illustration3 ,,combination ,,rose ,more than #he years old4 ,colours3 rose1 pink1 and green ,illustration3 ,,double ,,tulip ,made in ,ohio1 date unknown4 ,the tulips are made of red calico covered with small yellow flowers4 ,the roses have yellow centres ,during the ,middle ,ages instruction in the use of the needle was considered a necessary part of the ,english girl's education4 ,by the seventeenth century working fine works with the needle was considered of equal importance with singing1 dancing1 and ,french in the accomplishments of a lady of quality4 ,in the eighteenth century much the same sentiment prevailed1 and ,lady ,montagu is quoted as saying3 ,it is as scandalous for a woman not to know how to use a needle as for a man not to know how to use a sword4 ,the ,spectator of that time sarcastically tells of two sisters highly educated in domestic arts who spend so much time making cushions and sets of hangings that they had never learned to read and write6 ,a sober-minded old lady1 grieved by frivolous nieces1 begs the ,spectator to take the laudable mystery of embroidery into your serious consideration1 for1 says she1 ,i have two nieces1 who so often run gadding abroad that ,i do not know when to have them4 ,those hours which1 in this age1 are thrown away in dress1 visits1 and the like1 were employed in my time in writing out receipts1 or working beds1 chairs1 and hangings for the family4 ,for my part ,i have plied the needle these fifty years1 and by my good-will would never have it out of my hand4 ,it grieves my heart to see a couple of proud1 idle flirts sipping the tea for a whole afternoon in a room hung round with the industry of their great-grandmothers4 ,another old lady of the eighteenth century1 ,miss ,hutton1 proudly makes the following statement of the results of years of close application to the needle3 ,i have quilted counterpanes and chest covers in fine white linen1 in various patterns of my own invention4 ,i have made patchwork beyond calculation4 ,emblems and motifs were great favourites with the quilt workers of ye olden times and together with mottoes were worked into many pieces of embroidery4 ,the following mottoes were copied from an old quilt made in the seventeenth century3 ,covet not to wax riche through deceit1 ,he that has lest witte is most poore1 ,it is better to want riches than witte1 ,a covetous man cannot be riche4 ,illustration3 ,,morning ,,glories ,in one of their many beautiful and delicate varieties were chosen for this quilt1 and while the design is conventional to a certain extent it shows the natural grace of the growing vine ,the needle and its products have always been held in great esteem in ,england1 and many of the old writers refer to needlework with much respect4 ,in #afdj ,john ,taylor1 sometimes called the ,water ,poet1 published a collection of essays1 etc41 called ,the ,needle's ,excellency1 which was very popular in its day and ran through twelve editions4 ,in it is a long poem entitled1 ,the ,prayse of the ,needle4 ,the following are the opening lines3 ,to all dispersed sorts of ,arts and ,trades ,i write the needles prayse 7that never fades7 ,so long as children shall begot and borne1 ,so long as garments shall be made and worne4 ,so long as ,hemp or ,flax or ,sheep shall bear ,their linnen ,woollen fleeces yeare by yeare2 ,so long as silk-worms1 with exhausted spoile1 ,of their own entrailes for man's game shall toyle2 ,yea1 till the world be quite dissolved and past1 ,so long at least1 the ,needles use shall last4 ,it is interesting to read what ,elizabeth ,glaister1 an ,englishwoman1 writes of quilts in ,england3 ,perhaps no piece of secular needlework gave our ancestors more satisfaction1 both in the making and when made1 as the quilt or bed coverlet4 ,we have seen a good many specimens of them1 both of the real quilted counterpanes1 in which several thicknesses of material were stitched together into a solid covering1 and the lighter silken or linen coverlets ornamented with all sorts of embroidery4 ,cradle quilts also were favourite pieces of needlework and figure in inventories of ,henry ,,viii's time4 ,the real quilts were very handsome and the amount of labour bestowed on them was enormous4 ,the seventeenth century was a great time for them1 and the work of this period is generally very good4 ,the quilting of some of them is made by sewing several strands of thick cotton between the fine linen of the surface and the lining4 ,when one line was completed the cotton was laid down again next to it1 and another line formed4 ,a sort of shell pattern was a favourite for quilting4 ,when a sufficient space was covered with the ground pattern1 flowers or other ornaments were embroidered on this excellent foundation4 ,perhaps the best results as a work of art were attained when both quilting and flowers were done in bright yellow silk2 the effect of this colour on a white ground being always particularly good4 ,a handsome quilt may be worked with a darned background4 ,it is done most easily on huckaback towelling of rather loose weave1 running the needle under the raised threads for the ground4 ,illustration3 ,,princess ,,feathers ,made in ,indiana about #ahce4 ,colours3 soft dull green and old rose ,illustration3 ,,princess ,,feathers ,,with ,,border ,notice the maple leaf inserted in the border4 ,colours3 red and green ,a very effective quilt in quite a different style is made in applied work on unbleached cotton sheeting4 ,a pattern of yellow fruit or flower with leaves is cut out in coloured serges sewn on with crewels in buttonhole stitch2 stems1 veins1 and buds being also worked in crewels1 and the ground slightly darned in dim yellow crewel4 ,it is elaborate1 but a very pleasant and repaying piece of work4 ,many beautiful old quilts are made of silk and satin embroidered in pure silks or in gold and silver twist4 ,most of the best specimens are from ,france and ,italy1 where from the arrangement of the houses the beds have continued to be more en evidence than has been the case in ,england for the last two centuries4 ,many also are of ,indian origin2 the ground of these is sometimes of fine soft silk and sometimes of thick muslin1 over which the pattern is worked in silk4 ,others1 though of ,indian workmanship1 show a ,european influence1 of which the most curious are those worked at ,goa1 under ,portuguese dominion in the seventeenth century4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,quilt ,,in ,,america ,the date of the quilt's advent into ,america is unknown1 and--because of the lack of knowledge concerning the house furnishings of the early colonists--can never be positively determined4 ,quilts were in such general use and were considered as such ordinary articles that the early writers about family life in the colonies neglected to mention them4 ,we do know1 however1 that quilted garments1 bedspreads1 curtains1 and the like were very essential to the comfort and well-being of the original settlers along the ,atlantic seaboard4 ,illustration3 ,,peonies ,about #ge years old4 ,made for exhibition at state fairs in the ,middle ,west4 ,colours3 red1 green1 and yellow ,illustration3 ,,north ,,carolina ,,lily ,over #hj years old4 ,flowers3 red and green2 the border has green buds with red centres4 ,the quilting designs are remarkable for their beauty and originality ,extensive investigation has shown that the introduction of the arts of patchwork and quilting to the ,american continent is due entirely to the ,english and the ,dutch4 ,no evidence has been found that ,spanish or ,french colonists made use of quilting4 ,the ,spaniards in the warm lands of the ,south had little real need of warm clothing1 and--outside of possible appliqu heraldic devices on the coats of the early explorers--may be considered as having brought to the ,new ,world none of the art so popular in ,spain at the time4 ,the ,french who opened up ,canada brought none of the quilting or patchwork of ,france with them4 ,while needlework was taught at a very early date in the convents of ,quebec1 it was apparently only the more fanciful kinds of embroidery4 ,as a protection against the biting northern winters1 the early ,french settlers sought protection under furs1 which could be obtained quite readily in the great woods4 ,to secure more bed clothing1 it was very much easier to engage in a little hunting than to go through the laborious processes of piecing and quilting4 ,to both ,spanish and ,french1 the new world was strictly a man's country--to adventure in and win riches upon which to retire to a life of ease in their native lands4 ,with them1 therefore1 the inspiration of founding a home and providing it with the comforts of life was lacking2 and without such inspiration the household arts could never flourish4 ,the ,english and ,dutch planted their colonies along the coast from ,virginia to ,massachusetts with the primary object of founding new homes for themselves4 ,with them came their wives and daughters1 who brought along as their portion such household comforts and conveniences as they possessed4 ,under their willing hands spinning1 weaving1 and the manufacture of garments began immediately4 ,their poorly heated log houses made necessary an adequate supply of bedding and hangings for protection against the winter cold4 ,substantial1 heavy curtains1 frequently lined and quilted1 were hung over both doors and windows and were kept closely drawn during the bitter winter nights4 ,in the more imposing homes were silk damask curtains with linings of quilted silk to keep out the drafts of cold that swept through the rooms4 ,in ,massachusetts in the early colonial days quilted garments1 especially petticoats1 were in general use4 ,it is a curious circumstance that we owe this bit of information largely to the description of runaway slaves4 ,the ,boston ,news ,letter of ,october1 #agjg1 contains an advertisement describing an ,indian woman who ran away1 clad in the best garments she could purloin from her mistress's wardrobe3 ,a tall ,lusty ,carolina ,indian ,woman1 named ,keziah ,wampun ,had on a striped red1 blue and white ,home-spun ,jacket and a ,red one1 a ,black and quilted ,white ,silk ,crape ,petticoat1 a ,white ,shift and also a blue with her1 and a mixt ,blue and ,white ,linsey ,woolsey ,apron4 ,in #agbh the ,news ,letter published an advertisement of a runaway ,indian servant who1 wearied by the round of domestic drudgery1 adorned herself in borrowed finery and fled3 ,she wore off a ,narrow ,stript pinck cherredary ,gown turned up with a little floured red and white ,callico4 ,a ,stript ,home-spun quilted petticoat1 a plain muslin ,apron1 a suit of plain ,pinners and a red and white flowered knot1 also a pair of green stone earrings1 with white cotton stockings and leather heel'd wooden shoes4 ,a few items in a list of articles ordered from ,england for a ,new ,england bride1 ,miss ,judith ,sewall1 who was married in #agbj1 give some idea of what was considered as a suitable wedding outfit during that period4 ,the bride belonged to a rich family and no doubt had furnishings much more extensive than usual3 ,a ,duzen of good ,black ,walnut ,chairs1 ,a ,duzen ,cane ,chairs1 and a great chair for a chamber1 all black ,walnut4 ,one ,duzen large ,pewter ,plates1 new fashion1 a ,duzen ,ivory-hafted knives and forks4 ,four ,duzen small glass salt cellars1 ,curtains and ,vallens for a ,bed with ,counterpane1 ,head ,cloth1 and ,tester made of good yellow watered camlet with ,trimming4 ,send also of the same camlet and trimming as may be enough to make cushions for the chamber chairs4 ,a good fine larger ,chintz quilt1 well made4 ,this list also includes such items as kitchen utensils1 warming pans1 brass fenders1 tongs1 and shovels1 and four pairs of large ,brass candlesticks4 ,as the resources of the new country were developed1 the women were given some respite from their spinning1 weaving1 and garment making4 ,much of their hard-won leisure was spent piecing quilts4 ,in the rigorous climate of bleak ,new ,england there was great need of warm clothing and bedding1 and the spare moments of the housekeeper were largely occupied in increasing her supply4 ,to make the great amount of bedding necessary in the unheated sleeping rooms1 every scrap and remnant of woollen material left from the manufacture of garments was saved4 ,to supplement these1 the best parts of worn-out garments were carefully cut out1 and made into quilt pieces4 ,illustration3 ,,feather ,,star ,,with ,,appliqu ,the ,feather ,star pieced blocks alternate with blue and white blocks on which are applied scroll designs4 ,this quilt1 which is the only one of this pattern1 was made about #ahce4 ,it was designed by a ,mr4 ,hamill for his sweetheart1 ,mary ,hayward ,illustration3 ,,tulip ,,tree ,,leaves ,a modern quilt made by the mountaineers of ,south ,carolina4 ,colours3 light blue and pink ,beautiful1 even gorgeous1 materials were imported for costumes of the wives and daughters of the wealthy colonists4 ,there may be a greater variety of fabrics woven to-day1 but none is more splendid in texture and colour than those worn by the stately ladies of colonial times4 ,the teachings of the strict ,puritans advocated plainness and simplicity of dress2 even the ministers in the churches preached against the sinfulness of display of fine raiment4 ,notwithstanding the teachings and pleadings of the clergy1 there was great rivalry in dress among the inhabitants of the larger colonial towns4 ,costly thy habit as thy purse can buy1 was unnecessary advice to give to the rich colonist or to his wife4 ,men's attire was also of costly velvets lined with handsome brocades2 beautifully embroidered waistcoats1 silk stockings1 and gold lace trimmings were further additions to their costumes during the pre-,revolutionary period4 ,after these gay and costly fabrics had served their time as wearing apparel1 they were carefully preserved and made over into useful articles for the household4 ,the pinch of hard times during the struggle for independence made it imperative for many well-to-do families to economize4 ,consequently1 in many old patchwork quilts may be found bits of the finest silks1 satins1 velvets1 and brocades1 relics of more prosperous days4 ,alice ,morse ,earle1 in her charming book on ,home ,life in ,colonial ,days1 gives us a rare insight into our great-grandmothers' fondness for patchwork1 and how highly they prized their bits of highly coloured fabrics3 ,the feminine love of colour1 the longing for decoration1 as well as pride in skill of needlecraft1 found riotous expression in quilt making4 ,women revelled in intricate and difficult patchwork2 they eagerly exchanged patterns with one another2 they talked over the designs1 and admired pretty bits of calico and pondered what combinations to make1 with far more zest than women ever discuss art or examine high art specimens together to-day4 ,there was one satisfactory condition in the work1 and that was the quality of cottons and linens of which the patchwork was made4 ,real ,india chintzes and palampores are found in these quilts1 beautiful and artistic stuffs1 and the firm1 unyielding1 high-priced1 'real' ,french calicoes4 ,illustration3 ,,mexican ,,rose ,made in #ahdb4 ,colours3 red and green4 ,note the exquisite quilting ,illustration3 ,,currants ,,and ,,cockscomb ,small red berries combined with conventionalized leaves4 ,this quilt has captured first prizes at many state fairs ,portions of discarded uniforms1 old coat and cloak linings1 brilliantly dyed worn flannel shirts and well-worn petticoats were component parts of quilts that were needed for warmth4 ,a magnificent scarlet cloak1 worn by a ,lord ,mayor of ,london and brought to ,america by a member of the ,merrit family of ,salisbury1 ,massachusetts1 went through a series of adventures and migrations and ended its days as small bits of vivid colour1 casting a grateful glory and variety on a patchwork quilt in the ,saco ,valley of ,maine4 ,around the outstretched quilt a dozen quilters could sit1 running the whole together with fanciful set designs of stitchery4 ,sometimes several quilts were set up1 and ,i know of a ten days' quilting bee in ,narragansett in #ageb4 ,the women who came from ,holland to make their homes on the narrow island at the mouth of the ,hudson were housekeepers of traditional ,dutch excellence4 ,they delighted in well-stocked linen closets and possessed unusual quantities of sheets1 pillow cases1 and bedding1 mostly of their own spinning and weaving4 ,like their ,english neighbours to the north1 in ,connecticut and ,massachusetts1 they adopted quilted hangings and garments for protection against the severity of winter4 ,their quilted petticoats were the pride and joy of these transplanted ,hollanders1 and in their construction they exerted their highest talents in design and needlework4 ,these petticoats1 which were worn short enough to display the home-knitted hose1 were thickly interlined as well as quilted4 ,they were very warm1 as the interlining was usually of wool4 ,the fuller the purse1 the richer and gayer were the petticoats of the ,new ,amsterdam dames4 ,while not so strict in religious matters as their ,puritan neighbours1 the early inhabitants of ,new ,amsterdam always observed ,sunday and attended church regularly4 ,within the fort at the battery stood the church1 built of ,manhattan ,stone in #afdb4 ,its two peaked roofs with the watch-tower between was the most prominent object of the fortress4 ,on ,sunday mornings the two main streets1 ,broadway and ,whitehall1 were filled with dignified and sedate churchgoers arrayed in their best clothes4 ,the tucked-up panniers worn by the women displayed to the best advantage the quilted petticoats4 ,red1 blue1 black1 and white were the favourite and predominating colours1 and the different materials included fine woollen cloth1 camlet1 grosgrain silk1 and satin4 ,of all the articles of feminine attire of that period the quilted petticoat was the most important4 ,they were worn short1 displaying the low shoes with high heels and coloured hose with scarlet clockings2 silken hoods partially covered their curled and powdered hair2 altogether a charming and delightful picture4 ,the low1 flat land of ,south ,manhattan lying along the ,hudson1 because of its similarity to their mother country1 was a favourite dwelling-place in ,new ,netherlands4 ,this region1 known as ,flatbush1 was quickly covered with ,dutch homes and big1 orderly1 flourishing gardens4 ,a descendant of one of the oldest ,dutch families which settled in this locality1 ,mrs4 ,gertrude ,lefferts ,vanderbilt1 in her book1 ,the ,social ,history of ,flatbush1 has given many interesting details of early ,new ,york life4 ,she tells of the place quilt making held in the community1 and how the many intricate patterns of patchwork pleasantly occupied the spare moments of the women1 thus serving as a means of expression of their love of colour and design4 ,the following little domestic picture shows how conveniently near the thrifty housewife kept her quilt blocks3 ,a low chair with a seat of twisted osier1 on which was tied a loose feather-filled cushion1 covered with some gay material4 ,on the back of these chairs hung the bag of knitting1 with the little red stocking and shining needles plainly visible1 indicating that this was the favourite seat of the industrious mother of the family2 or a basket of patchwork held its place upon a low stool 7bankje7 beside the chair1 also to be snatched up at odd intervals 7ledige tyd74 ,one reliable source of information of the comforts and luxuries that contributed to pleasant dwelling in old ,new ,york is found in old inventories of household effects4 ,occasionally complete lists are found that throw much light on the furnishings of early days4 ,such an inventory of the household belongings of ,captain ,john ,kidd1 before he went to sea and turned pirate1 mentions over sixty different kinds of house furnishings1 from a skillet to a dozen chairs embellished with ,turkish embroidery4 ,among the articles with which ,john ,kidd and his wife ,sarah began housekeeping in ,new ,york in #afib1 as recorded in this inventory1 were four bedsteads1 with three suits of hangings1 curtains1 and valances to go with them4 ,feather beds1 feather pillows1 linen sheets1 tablecloths1 and napkins1 ten blankets1 and three quilts4 ,how much of this store of household linens was part of his wife's wedding dower is not stated4 ,illustration3 ,,conventional ,,appliqu ,the designs are buttonholed around4 ,colours3 soft green and rose4 ,this quilt is over #ajj years old ,illustration3 ,,single ,,tulip ,colours3 red and yellow4 ,seventy-five years old ,the early settlers in ,virginia and the ,carolinas were mostly ,english of the better class1 who had been landed proprietors with considerable retinues of servants4 ,as soon as these original colonists secured a firm foothold1 large estates were developed on which the manners and customs of old ,england were followed as closely as possible4 ,each plantation became a self-supporting community1 since nearly all the actual necessities were produced or manufactured thereon4 ,the loom worked ceaselessly1 turning the wool1 cotton1 and flax into household commodities1 and even the shoes for both slave and master were made from home-tanned leather4 ,for their luxuries1 the ships that carried tobacco and rice to the ,english markets returned laden with books1 wines1 laces1 silverware1 and beautiful house furnishings of every description4 ,in the colonial plantation days of household industry quilts1 both patchwork and plain1 were made in considerable numbers4 ,quilts were then in such general use as to be considered too commonplace to be described or even mentioned4 ,consequently1 we are forced to depend for evidence of their existence in those days on bills of sale and inventories of auctions4 ,these records1 however1 constitute an authority which cannot be questioned4 ,in #aggd ,belvoir1 the home of the ,fairfax family1 one of the largest and most imposing of houses of ,virginia1 was sold and its contents were put up at auction4 ,a partial list of articles bought at this sale by ,george ,washington1 then ,colonel ,washington1 and here given1 will show the luxury to which the ,southern planter was accustomed3 ,a mahogany shaving desk1 settee bed and furnishings1 four mahogany chairs1 oval glass with gilt frame1 mahogany sideboard1 twelve chairs1 and three window curtains from dining-room4 ,several pairs of andirons1 tongs1 shovels1 toasting forks1 pickle pots1 wine glasses1 pewter plates1 many blankets1 pillows1 bolsters1 and nineteen coverlids4 ,illustration3 ,,daisy ,,quilt ,for a child's bed ,it was customary in the good old days after a dinner or ball for the guests1 who necessarily came from long distances1 to stay all night1 and many bedrooms1 frequently from ten to twenty-five1 besides those needed for the family1 were provided in the big houses4 ,all were beautifully furnished with imported1 massive1 carved furniture from ,france and ,england4 ,in one year1 #agfh1 in ,charlestown1 ,south ,carolina1 occurred twelve weddings among the wealthy residents of that city1 and all the furniture for these rich couples came from ,england4 ,the twelve massive beds with canopies supported by heavily carved posts1 decorated with rice stalks and full heads of grain1 were so high that steps were needed in order to climb into them4 ,elaborate and expensive curtains and spreads were furnished to correspond4 ,in one early inventory of an extensively furnished house there are mentioned four feather beds1 bolsters1 two stools1 looking-glass tipt with silver1 two ,turkey carpets1 one yellow mohair bed counterpane1 and two green silk quilts4 ,from this it is evident that the quilt had already found its place1 and no doubt in great numbers1 on account of the many beds to furnish in the spacious house of the rich planters4 ,shortly after the ,revolution came the great migration from ,virginia over the ridges of the ,blue and the ,appalachian chains into what was then the wilderness of ,tennessee and ,kentucky4 ,the descendants of these hardy pioneers who first forced their way westward still live among the ,kentucky and ,virginia hills under the conditions which prevailed a hundred years ago4 ,in this heavily timbered rough country they manage to eke out a precarious existence by cultivating small hillside patches of cotton1 corn1 and a few vegetables4 ,immured in the seclusion of the mountains they have remained untouched by the world's progress during the past century4 ,year after year they are satisfied to live this secluded existence1 and but rarely make an acquaintance with a stranger4 ,educational advantages1 except of the most elementary sort1 are almost unknown1 and the majority of these mountaineers neither read nor write4 ,as a result of this condition of isolated and primitive living1 existing in the mountains of ,virginia1 ,kentucky1 ,tennessee1 and the ,carolinas1 the household crafts that flourished in this country before the advent of machinery are still carried on exactly as in the old days4 ,illustration3 ,,ohio ,,rose ,this ,rose quilt was made in ,ohio about #hj years ago4 ,colours3 red1 pink1 and two shades of green ,illustration3 ,,rose ,,of ,,sharon ,made in ,indiana about #fe years ago4 ,it has a wool interlining instead of the usual cotton ,the simple needs of the family are almost entirely supplied by the women of the household4 ,they spin1 weave1 and make the few plain garments which they and their families wear4 ,day after day1 year in and year out1 these isolated women must fill in the hours with little tasks connected with home life4 ,as in many other instances where women are dependent upon their own resources for amusement1 they have recourse to their needles4 ,consequently1 it is in the making of quilts1 coverlets1 and allied forms of needlework that these mountain women spend their hours of recreation4 ,the quilts1 both pieced and patched1 that are made in mountaineers' cabins have a great variety of designs4 ,many designs have been used again and again by each succeeding generation of quilters without any variation whatever1 and have well-known names4 ,there are also designs that have been originated by a proficient quilt maker1 who has made use of some common flower as the basis for her conventional design4 ,it has not been a great many years since the materials used in making the mountain quilts were dyed as well as woven in the home4 ,the dyes were homemade from common roots and shrubs gathered from nearby woods and meadows4 ,blue was obtained from wild indigo2 brown from walnut hulls2 black from the bark of scrub-oak2 and yellow from laurel leaves4 ,however1 the materials which must be purchased for a quilt are so meagre1 and the colours called oil boiled--now used to dye calico--are so fast1 that the mountain women seldom dye their own fabrics any more4 ,they bring in a few chickens or eggs to the nearest village1 and in exchange obtain a few yards of precious coloured calico for their quilts4 ,miss ,bessie ,daingerfield1 a ,kentuckian1 who is in close touch with these mountaineers1 tells us what a void the quilt fills in the lives of the lonely women of the hills3 ,while contemporary women out in the world are waging feminist war1 those in the mountains of the long ,appalachian chain still sit at their quilting frames and create beauty and work wonders with patient needles4 ,there is much beautiful and skilful handiwork hidden away in these hills4 ,the old women still weave coverlets1 towels1 and table linen from wool from their own sheep and from flax grown in their own gardens4 ,the girls adorn their cotton gowns with 'compass work1' exact1 exquisite4 ,in some places the men and boys1 girls and women1 make baskets of hickory reeds and willows to delight the heart of the collector4 ,but from the cradle to the grave1 the women make quilts4 ,the tiny girl shows you with pride the completed four patch or nine patch1 square piled on square1 which 'mammy aims to set up for her ag'inst spring4' ,the mother tells you half jesting1 half in earnest1 'the young un will have several ag'inst she has a home of her own4' ,no bride of the old country has more pride in her dower chest than the mountain bride in her pile of quilts4 ,the old woman will show you a stack of quilts from floor to ceiling of her cabin4 ,one dear old soul told me she had eighty-four1 all different1 and 'ever' stitch1 piecin'1 settin' up1 quiltin'1 my own work and ne'er another finger tetched hit4' ,patchwork was an important factor in making plain the knotty problems of existence1 as ,eliza ,calvert ,hall clearly shows when she makes ,aunt ,jane of ,kentucky say3 ,how much piecin' a quilt is like livin' a life6 ,many a time ,i've set and listened to ,parson ,page preachin' about predestination and free will1 and ,i've said to myself1 ',if ,i could jest git up in the pulpit with one of my quilts ,i could make it a heap plainer to folks than parson's makin' it with his big words4' ,you see1 you start out with jest so much caliker2 you don't go to the store and pick it out and buy it1 but the neighbours will give you a piece here and a piece there1 and you'll have a piece left over every time you cut a dress1 and you take jest what happens to come4 ,and that's like predestination4 ,but when it comes to the cuttin' out1 why1 you're free to choose your own pattern4 ,you can give the same kind o' pieces to two persons1 and one'll make a 'nine patch' and one'll make a 'wild-goose chase1' and there'll be two quilts made out of the same kind of pieces1 and jest as different as they can be4 ,and that is jest the way with livin'4 ,the ,lord sends us the pieces1 but we can cut them out and put 'em together pretty much to suit ourselves1 and there's a heap more in the cuttin' out and the sewin' than there is in the caliker4 ,in the great ,central ,west1 from ,ohio to the ,mississippi1 the early settlers passed through the same cycle of development as did their ancestors in the beginnings of the original colonies along the seaboard4 ,the same dangers and privations were faced1 and the women1 as well as the men1 quickly adapted themselves to the hardships of life in a new country4 ,shortly after the ,war of #ahab1 which secured to the ,united ,states a clear title to this vast region1 the great migration into the ,ohio ,valley began4 ,some families came by way of the ,great ,lakes1 some by wagon over the ,pennsylvania ridges1 and still others by horseback over the mountains from ,virginia4 ,one and all of these pioneer families brought with them their most cherished household possessions4 ,it is hardly necessary to say that every family had one or more quilts among its household goods4 ,many cases are on record of rare old mahogany bureaus and bedsteads transported hundreds of miles over trails through the wilderness on pack horses4 ,upon arrival at the site chosen for the future home1 the real work of house building and furnishing began4 ,illustration3 ,,original ,,floral ,,designs ,this quilt contains twenty blocks1 each of a different design4 ,the border is composed of festoons decorated with cockscomb and sprays of flowers4 ,a southern ,indiana quilt made about #ahbe ,illustration3 ,,conventional ,,tulip ,made from a pattern used #acj years ago4 ,colours3 pink and green ,only he who knows what it means to hew a home out of the forest2 of what is involved in the task of replacing mighty trees with corn2 only he who has watched the log house rising in the clearing1 and has witnessed the devotedness that gathers around the old log schoolhouse and the pathos of a grave in the wilderness1 can understand how sobriety1 decency1 age1 devoutness1 beauty1 and power belong to the story of those who began the mighty task of changing the wild west into the heart of a teeming continent4 ,thus ,jenkin ,lloyd ,jones1 in his address on ,the ,father of ,lincoln1 gives a graphic picture of the labours and trials confronting those who made the first settlements in what are now the flourishing states of ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,kentucky1 ,illinois1 and ,michigan4 ,as in the colonies of ,new ,england1 so here1 the comforts of the family depended upon the thrift1 energy1 and thoughtfulness of the women4 ,practically every article of clothing worn by the entire family1 as well as all household supplies1 were the work of their busy hands4 ,all day in the frontier cabin could be heard the hum of the spinning wheel1 the clack of the loom1 or the click of knitting needles4 ,in many localities the added work of teaching the children fell to the mothers1 and the home lessons given around the fireplace1 heaped with glowing logs1 were the only ones possible for many boys and girls4 ,it is of particular interest to note how often learning and housekeeping went hand in hand in the first homes of this new country4 ,the few lines following are extracts from the diary of a busy ,indiana housewife of the period preceding the ,mexican ,war1 and show how fully occupied was the time of the pioneer woman3 ,november #ajth4 ,to-day was cider-making day1 and all were up at sunrise4 ,december #ast4 ,we killed a beef to-day1 the neighbours helping4 ,illustration3 ,,conventional ,,rose ,a very striking pattern1 made in ,indiana about #ge years ago4 ,colours3 red1 pink1 and green ,illustration3 ,,conventional ,,rose ,,wreath ,this ,wreath of ,roses design has been in use for over #ajj years4 ,colours3 red1 green1 pink1 and yellow ,december #dth4 ,i was much engaged in trying out my tallow4 ,to-day ,i dipped candles and finished the ',vicar of ,wakefield4' ,december #hth4 ,to-day ,i commenced to read the ',life of ,washington1' and ,i borrowed a singing book4 ,have been trying to make a bonnet4 ,the cotton we raised served a very good purpose for candle-wicking when spun4 ,in the ,middle ,west1 without friendly coperation1 the lot of the pioneer would have been much more difficult than it was4 ,julia ,henderson ,levering tells of the prevalence of this kindly custom in her interesting ,historic ,indiana3 ,the social pleasures of the earliest days were largely connected with the helpful neighbourhood assistance in the homely1 necessary tasks of the frontier4 ,if a new cabin was to be built1 the neighbours assembled for the house raising1 for the logs were too heavy to be handled alone4 ,when a clearing was made1 the log rolling followed4 ,all men for miles around came to help1 and the women to help cook and serve the bountiful meals4 ,then there were corn huskings1 wool shearings1 apple parings1 sugar boilings1 and quilting bees4 ,about #ahbj a new channel of commerce was opened to the inhabitants of the ,ohio ,valley1 in the advantages of which every household shared4 ,this was the establishing of steamboat and flatboat communication with ,new ,orleans4 ,from out of the ,wabash ,river alone over a thousand flatboats1 laden with agricultural products1 passed into the ,ohio during the annual spring rise on their way to the seaport by the ,gulf of ,mexico4 ,on their return voyage these boats were laden with sacks of coffee1 quaint ,chinese boxes of tea1 china and silk from ,france1 and mahogany and silver from ,england4 ,in this manner the finest fabrics1 which were hitherto obtainable only in those cities that possessed sea communication1 were available in every river hamlet4 ,many of the fine old quilts now being brought to light in the ,central ,west were wrought of foreign cloth which has made this long journey in some farmer's scow4 ,in ,england during the middle of the past century1 the ,victorian period was known chiefly for its hideous array of cardboard mottoes done in brilliant wools1 crochet tidies1 and wax flowers4 ,it is particularly fortunate that at this time the women of the ,united ,states were too fully occupied with their own household arts and industries to take up with the ideas of their ,english sisters4 ,by far the best needlework of this period were the beautiful quilts and bedspreads1 exquisite in colour and design1 which were the product of ,american women4 ,the finest quilts were wrought along designs largely original with the quilters themselves1 who plied their needles in solitary farmhouses and out-of-the-way hamlets to which the influence of ,english idea in needlework could not penetrate4 ,in no locality in our country can so many rare and beautiful quilts be found as in the ,middle ,west4 ,many of the best were made during those early days of struggle for mere existence1 when they served the busy housewife as the one precious outlet for her artistic aspirations4 ,the type of quilt that may be called distinctively ,american was substantial in character2 the material that entered into its construction was serviceable1 of a good quality of cotton cloth1 or handwoven linen1 and the careful work put into it was intended to stand the test of time4 ,the coloured materials combined with the white were also enduring1 the colours being as nearly permanent as it was possible to procure4 ,some cottons were dyed by the quilt makers themselves1 if desirable fast shades could not be readily procured otherwise4 ,the fundamental idea was to make a quilt that would withstand the greatest possible amount of wear4 ,some of the artistic possibilities in both colour and design were often subordinated to the desire to make quilts as nearly imperishable as possible4 ,the painstaking needlework required to produce a quilt deserved the best of material for its foundation4 ,silks1 satins1 velvets1 and fine linen and cotton fabrics of delicate shades were not favoured as quilt material by the old-time needleworkers1 who wrought for service first and beauty afterward4 ,a most beautiful example of the ,american quilt at its best is found in the ,indiana ,wreath4 ,its pleasing design1 harmonious colours1 and exquisite workmanship reveal to us the quilter's art in its greatest perfection4 ,this quilt was made by ,miss ,e4 ,j4 ,hart1 a most versatile and skilful needlewoman1 in #aheh1 as shown by the small precise figures below the large wreath4 ,the design is exceedingly well balanced in that the entire quilt surface is uniformly covered and no one feature is emphasized to the detriment of any other4 ,the design element of the wreath is a compact group of flowers1 fruit1 and leaves1 which is repeated ten times in making the complete circle4 ,the vase filled with drooping sprays1 flowers1 and conventionalized buds forms an ideal centre for this wreath4 ,curving vines intermingled with flowers make a desirable and graceful border4 ,this quilt is a little more than two and a half yards square1 and the central wreath fills a space equal to the width of a double bed1 for which it was evidently intended4 ,illustration3 ,,poinsettia ,an appliqu quilt of red1 blue1 and green ,illustration3 ,,whig ,,rose ,on the reverse side is a small gold pocket in which valuables may be secreted4 ,colours3 yellow1 red1 and green ,miss ,hart displayed unusual ability in choosing and combining the limited materials at the disposal of the quilt maker in a newly settled region4 ,the foundation is fine white muslin2 the coloured material is calico1 in the serviceable quality manufactured at that time1 and of shades considered absolutely fast1 then known as oil boiled4 ,only four colours are used in the design3 green1 red1 yellow1 and pink1 the latter having a small allover printed design in a darker shade4 ,miss ,hart planned her quilting quite carefully4 ,in the large blank spaces in the corners are placed special1 original designs that have some features of the much-used feather pattern4 ,aside from these triangular corner designs all the quilting is in small diamonds1 which form a very pleasing background for the effective coloured designs4 ,the maker's name and the date are closely quilted in white in plain bold-faced type just below the wreath4 ,in the centre of the wreath1 in neat script in black thread1 is quilted the name ,indiana ,wreath1 and all the stitchery of top and quilting is the very perfection of quilt making4 ,the beautiful white quilts that are treasured as relics of past industry by their fortunate owners deserve special mention4 ,they are rare because nowadays no one will expend the large amount of time necessary to complete one4 ,the foundation of such a quilt is fine white muslin1 or fine homespun and woven linen1 with a very thin interlining4 ,the beauty of the quilt depends upon the design drawn for the quilting and the fine stitches with which the quilting is done4 ,there is usually a special design planned for these white quilts which includes a large central panel or pattern1 with smaller designs for the corners embodying some of the ideas of the central panel4 ,around these decorative sections the background is so closely quilted as to resemble a woven fabric4 ,this smooth1 even background throws the principal designs into low relief4 ,after the entire quilt is quilted and removed from the frames1 the main design is frequently further accentuated by having all the most prominent features1 such as the leaves and petals of flowers1 stuffed4 ,to accomplish this tiny holes are made on the wrong side of each section of the design and cotton is pushed in with a large needle until the section is stuffed full and tight4 ,this tedious process is followed until every leaf and petal stands out in bold relief4 ,illustration3 ,,poppy ,,design ,this is applied patchwork and therefore much more easily made than pieced work2 very simple quilting gives prominence to the design ,the fashion which has prevailed for many years of dressing beds all in white has no doubt caused the destruction of many beautiful quilts4 ,the white quilts that have been preserved are now considered too valuable to be subjected to hard wear4 ,the most exquisite ones were made in the last of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries4 ,it was the rage for white bed coverings that shortened the lives of many old pieced and patched quilts of good colouring4 ,the ,country ,contributor tells of her experiences in dressing up the white beds3 ,i remember with regret the quilts ,i wore out1 using them white side up in lieu of white ,marseilles spreads4 ,the latter we were far too poor to own2 the 'tufted' ones had worn out2 and ,i loathed the cheap 'honeycombed' cotton things we were forced to use unless we were going to be frankly 'poor' and cover our beds with plain patchwork1 made up hurriedly and quilted in simple 'fans' in plebeian squares1 as poor folk who haven't time for elegant stitches did theirs4 ,so ,i used the old quilts1 making their fine stitches in intricate patterns serve for the design in a 'white spread1' turning the white muslin lining up4 ,a beautiful white spread it made1 too1 ,i realize now1 more fully than ,i did then1 though ,i now would know much better than to turn the wonderful appliqu stars and flowers and wheels from view4 ,strange1 is it not1 that we relinquish so much of life's best joy and pleasure before we know what actually is good8 ,this fashion prevails to-day1 in some instances insisted upon for sanitary reasons1 but it has lost to us many of the finest examples of quilting that existed because where there were no coloured patterns to relieve the white expanse1 the quilting had to be perfect4 ,if you have a white quilt treasure it1 for competent quilters are no longer numerous and few there are who can reproduce it4 ,,chapter ,v ,,how ,,quilts ,,are ,,made ,it is only in comparatively recent years that many articles of wearing apparel and house furnishings have been manufactured outside the home4 ,one after another1 spinning1 weaving1 shoemaking1 candlemaking1 tailoring1 knitting1 and similar tasks have been taken from the homekeeper because the same articles can be made better and cheaper elsewhere4 ,the housewife still keeps busy1 but is occupied with tasks more to her liking4 ,among the few home occupations that have survived is quilting4 ,with many serviceable substitutes it is not really necessary for women to make quilts now1 but the strange fascination about the work holds their interest4 ,quilt making has developed and progressed during the very period when textile arts in the home have declined under the influence of the factory4 ,more quilts are being made at the present time and over a wider area than ever before4 ,quilts1 as known and used to-day1 may be divided into two general classes1 washable and non-washable1 depending upon the materials of which they are made4 ,the methods for constructing each class are the same1 and are so very simple that it seems hardly necessary to explain them4 ,the name quilt implies two or more fabrics held together with many stitches4 ,webster defines a quilt as ,anything that is quilted1 especially as a quilted bedcover or a skirt worn by women2 any cover or garment made by putting wool1 cotton1 etc41 between two cloths and stitching them together4 ,the verb1 to quilt1 he defines as ,to stitch or to sew together at frequent intervals in order to confine in place the several layers of cloth and wadding of which a garment1 comforter1 etc41 may be made4 ,to stitch or sew in lines or patterns4 ,the ,encyclopdia ,britannica is a little more explicit and also gives the derivation of the name1 quilt1 as follows3 ,probably a coverlet for a bed consisting of a mass of feathers1 down1 wool1 or other soft substances1 surrounded by an outer covering of linen1 cloth1 or other material4 ,in its earlier days the quilt was often made thick and sewed as a form of mattress4 ,the term was also given to a stitched1 wadded lining for body armour4 ,the word came into ,english from old ,french cuilte4 ,this is derived from ,latin culcitra1 a stuffed mattress or cushion4 ,from the form culcitra came old ,french cotra1 or coutre whence coutre pointe2 this was corrupted into counterpoint1 which in turn was changed to counterpane4 ,the word 'pane' is also from the ,latin pannus1 a piece of cloth4 ,thus 'counterpane1' a coverlet for a bed1 and 'quilt' are by origin the same word4 ,broadly speaking1 from these definitions1 any article made up with an interlining may be called a quilt4 ,however1 usage has restricted the meaning of the word until now it is applied to a single form of bed covering4 ,in the ,united ,states the distinction has been carried even farther and a quilt is understood to be a light weight1 closely stitched bedcover4 ,when made thicker1 and consequently warmer1 it is called a comfort4 ,the three necessary parts of a quilt are the top1 the lining or back1 and the interlining4 ,the top1 which is the important feature1 unless the quilting is to be the only ornamentation1 may be a single piece of plain cloth2 or it may be pieced together from many small pieces different in size1 colour1 and shape1 so as to form either simple or fanciful designs4 ,the top may also be adorned with designs cut from fabrics of varying colours and applied to the foundation with fancy stitches1 or it may be embroidered4 ,the materials may be either cotton1 linen1 wool1 or silk4 ,the back is usually of plain material1 which requires no description4 ,the interlining1 if the quilting is to be close and elaborate1 must be thin4 ,if warmth is desired a thicker interlining is used and the lines of quilting are spaced farther apart4 ,the design of the top and the quilting lend themselves very readily to all manner of variations1 and as a result there is an almost infinite variety of quilts4 ,for convenience in making1 nearly every quilt is composed of a number of blocks of regular form and size which1 when joined together1 make the body of the quilt4 ,each of these blocks may have a design complete in itself1 or may be only part of a large and complicated design covering the whole top of the quilt4 ,illustration3 ,,harrison ,,rose ,this quilt is at least #ge years old4 ,the rose is pieced of old rose and two shades of pink2 the stem and leaves are appliqu ,illustration3 ,,detail ,,of ,,harrison ,,rose1 ,,showing ,,quilting ,illustration3 ,,quilting ,,designs 7a7 ,single ,diagonal ,lines 7b7 ,double ,diagonal ,lines 7c7 ,triple ,diagonal ,lines ,there is a radical distinction between the verbs to piece and to patch1 as used in connection with the making of quilts4 ,in this instance the former means to join together separate pieces of like material to make sections or blocks that are in turn set together to form the top of the quilt4 ,the pieces are usually of uniform shape and size and of contrasting colours4 ,they are sewed together with a running stitch1 making a seam upon the wrong side4 ,the quilt called ,star of the ,east is an excellent example of a pieced quilt in which a number of small pieced sections are united to form a single design that embraces the entire top of the quilt4 ,patches are commonly associated with misfortune4 ,the one who needs them is unfortunate1 and the one who has to sew them on is usually an object of sympathy1 according to a wise old saw3 ,a hole may be thought to be an accident of the day1 but a patch is a sure sign of poverty4 ,but patch quilts belong to a different class than the patches of necessity1 and are the aristocrats of the quilt family1 while the pieced quilts came under the heading of poor relations4 ,however1 this term is a misnomer when applied to some pieced quilts4 ,many of the scrap quilts1 as they are called in some localities1 are very pretty when made from gay pieces--carefully blended--of the various shades of a single colour4 ,the stars in the design called ,the ,unknown ,star are made of a great variety of different patterns of pink calico1 yet the blending is so good that the effect is greatly heightened by the multiplicity of shades4 ,pieced quilts make a special appeal to women who delight in the precise and accurate work necessary in their construction4 ,for those who enjoy making pieced quilts1 there is practically no limit to the variety of designs available1 some of which are as intricate as the choicest mosaic4 ,the bold and rather heavy design known as ,jacob's ,ladder is a good example of the pieced quilt4 ,another is the ,feathered ,star1 whose lightness and delicacy make it a most charming pattern4 ,the pieced quilt with one large star in the centre1 called by some ,the ,star of the ,east and by others ,the ,star of ,bethlehem1 is a striking example of mathematical exactness in quilt piecing4 ,in quilts made after this pattern all the pieces must be exactly the same size and all the seams must be the same width in order to produce a perfect star4 ,the ,french word appliqu is frequently used to describe the patched or laid-on work4 ,there is no single word in the ,english language that exactly translates appliqu4 ,the term applied work comes nearest and is the common ,english term4 ,by common usage patchwork is now understood to mean quilt making1 and while used indiscriminately for both pieced and patched quilts1 it really belongs to that type where the design is cut from one fabric and applied upon another4 ,sewed on and laid quilts are old terms given to appliqu or patched quilts4 ,the distinction between pieced and patched quilts is fittingly described by ,miss ,bessie ,daingerfield1 the ,kentuckian who has written interestingly of her experiences with mountain quilt makers4 ,she says3 ,to every mountain woman her piece quilts are her daily interest1 but her patch quilts are her glory4 ,even in these days1 you women of the low country know a piece quilt when you see one1 and doubtless you learned to sew on a 'four-patch' square4 ,but have you among your treasures a patch quilt8 ,the piece quilt1 of course1 is made of scraps1 and its beauty or ugliness depends upon the material and colours that come to hand1 the intricacy of the design1 and one's skill in executing it4 ,i think much character building must be done while hand and eye coperate to make1 for example1 a star quilt with its endless tiny points for fitting and joining1 but a patch quilt is a more ambitious affair4 ,for this the pattern is cut from the whole piece and appliqud on unbleached cotton4 ,the colours used are commonly oil red1 oil green1 and a certain rather violent yellow1 and sometimes indigo blue4 ,these and these only are considered reliable enough for a patch quilt1 which is made for the generations that come after4 ,the making of such a quilt is a work of oriental patience4 ,illustration3 ,,original ,,rose ,,design ,,made ,,in #ahdj ,the maker was lame1 and only able to walk about in her garden4 ,colours3 red1 green1 pink1 and yellow ,illustration3 ,,pineapple ,,design ,colours3 red and green ,appliqu work is thought by some to be an inferior kind of embroidery1 although it is not4 ,it is not a lower but another kind of needlework in which more is made of the stuff than of the stitching4 ,in appliqu the craft to the needleworker is not carried to its limit1 but1 on the other hand1 it calls for great skill in design4 ,effective it must be3 coarse it may be3 vulgar it should not be3 trivial it can hardly be3 mere prettiness is beyond its scope3 but it lends itself to dignity of design and nobility of treatment4 ,the foregoing quotation is from ,art in ,needlework by ,louis ,f4 ,day and ,mary ,buckle4 ,it is of interest because it explains how appliqu or laid-on needlework ranks with other kinds4 ,after all the different parts of a quilt top are either pieced or decorated with applied designs1 they are joined together with narrow seams upon the wrong side of the quilt4 ,if a border is included in the design it should harmonize in colour and design with the body of the quilt4 ,however1 in many quilts1 borders seem to be a thing apart from the remainder of the top and1 apparently1 have been added as an afterthought to enlarge the top after the blocks had been joined4 ,in old quilts a border frequently consisted of simple bands of colours similar to those found in the body of the quilt1 but more often new material entirely different in colour and quality was added when greater size was desired4 ,many old quilts were three yards or more square1 generous proportions being very essential in the old days of broad four-posters heaped with feather beds4 ,illustration3 ,,quilting ,,designs 7a7 ,diamonds 7b7 ,hanging ,diamonds 7c7 ,broken ,plaid ,the top being completed1 the back or lining1 of the same dimensions as the top1 is next made of some light-weight material1 usually white cotton4 ,the quilt1 to quote the usual expression1 is then ready for the frames4 ,in earlier days the quilting frame could be found in every home1 its simple construction making this possible4 ,in its usual form it consists of four narrow pieces of wood1 two somewhat longer than a quilt1 and two shorter1 perhaps half as long1 with holes bored in the ends of each piece4 ,these pieces are made into an oblong frame by fastenings of bolts or pegs1 and are commonly supported on the backs of chairs4 ,more pretentious frames are made with round pieces for the sides1 and with ends made to stand upon the floor1 about the height of a table1 these ends having round holes into which the side pieces fit4 ,such a frame is then self-supporting and frequently has a cogwheel attachment to keep the sides in place and to facilitate the rolling and unrolling of the quilt4 ,the majority of frames are very plain1 but occasionally a diligent quilter is encountered who has one made to suit her particular requirements1 or has received an unusually well-built one as a gift4 ,one old frame worthy of mention was made of cherry with elaborate scroll designed ends1 cherry side bars1 and a set of cogwheels also made of cherry2 all finished and polished like a choice piece of furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,virginia ,,rose ,this original rose design was made by ,caroline ,stalnaker of ,lewis ,county1 ,west ,virginia4 ,she was one of the thirteen children of ,charles ,stalnaker1 who was a rock-ribbed ,baptist1 and an ardent ,northern sympathizer4 ,during the ,civil ,war this quilt was buried along with the family silver and other valuables to protect it from depredations by ,confederate soldiers4 ,one of ,caroline ,stalnaker's neighbors and friends was ,stonewall ,jackson4 ,in this quilt1 as in many old ones1 the border has been omitted on the side intended to go at the head of the bed4 ,this quilt is still unfinished1 having never been quilted ,illustration3 ,,rose ,,of ,,lemoine ,an old and distinctly ,american design ,each side bar or roll of the quilting frame is tightly wound with cotton strips or has a piece of muslin firmly fastened to its entire length1 to which is sewed the edges of the lining1 one side to each bar4 ,then the extra length is rolled up on one side of the frame1 and after being tightly stretched1 the wooden pieces are securely fastened4 ,on this stretched lining or back of the quilt1 the cotton or wool used for filling or interlining is spread very carefully and smoothly2 then with even greater care the top is put in place1 its edge pinned or basted to the edge of the lining1 and drawn tightly over the cotton4 ,the ends of the quilt must also be stretched4 ,this is done by pinning pieces of muslin to the quilt and wrapping them around the ends of the frame4 ,great care is required to keep all edges true and to stretch all parts of the quilt uniformly4 ,upon this smooth top the quilting is drawn1 for even the most expert quilters require outlines to quilt by4 ,if the quilt top is light in colour the design is drawn with faint pencil lines2 if the colours are too dark to show pencil markings1 then with a chalked line4 ,it is a fascinating thing to children to watch the marking of a quilt with the chalk lines4 ,the firm cord used for this is drawn repeatedly across a piece of chalk or through powdered starch until well coated1 then held near the quilt1 and very tightly stretched1 while a second person draws it up and lets it fly back with a snap1 thus making a straight white line4 ,how closely the lines are drawn depends wholly upon the ambition and diligence of the quilter4 ,the lines may be barely a quarter of an inch apart1 or may be placed only close enough together to perform their function of keeping the interlining in place4 ,patterns of quiltings are not as plentiful as designs for the patchwork tops of quilts2 only about eight or ten standard patterns being in general use4 ,the simplest pattern consists of single diagonal lines1 spaced to suit the work in hand4 ,the lines are run diagonally across the quilt instead of parallel with the weave1 in order that they may show to better advantage1 and also because the cloth is less apt to tear or pull apart than if the quilting lines are run in the same direction as the threads of the fabric4 ,the elaboration of the single diagonal into sets of two or more parallel lines1 thus forming the double and triple diagonals1 is the first step toward ornamentation in quilting4 ,a further advance is made when the quilting lines are crossed1 by means of which patterns like the square1 diamond1 and hanging diamond are produced4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sunflower ,,quilt ,shows a realistic1 bold design of vivid colouring4 ,the border is harmonious1 suggesting a firm foundation for the stems4 ,the quilting in the centre is a design of spider webs1 leaves1 and flowers ,wavy lines and various arrangements of hoops1 circles1 and segments of circles are among the more complex quilting patterns1 which are not particularly difficult4 ,plates and saucers of various diameters are always available to serve as markers in laying out such designs4 ,the pineapple1 broken plaid1 and shell patterns are very popular1 especially with those who are more experienced in the art4 ,one very effective design used by many quilters is known as the ,ostrich ,feather4 ,these so-called feathers are arranged in straight bands1 waved lines1 or circles1 and--when the work is well done--are very beautiful4 ,the fan and twisted rope patterns are familiar to the older quilters but are not much used at the present time4 ,illustration3 ,,quilting ,,designs 7a7 ,rope 7b7 ,shell 7c7 ,fan ,illustration3 ,,quilting ,,designs 7a7 ,feathers in ,bands 7b7 ,feathers in ,waved ,lines 7c7 ,feathers in ,circles ,frequently the quilting design follows the pieced or patched pattern and is then very effective1 especially when a floral pattern is used4 ,some quilters show much originality and ingenuity in incorporating into their work the outlines of the flowers and leaves of the quilt design4 ,sometimes the pieced top is of such common material as to seem an unworthy basis for the beautiful work of an experienced quilter1 who stitches with such patient hand1 wasting1 some may think1 her art upon too poor a subject4 ,however1 for the consolation of those who consider quilting a wicked waste of time1 it may be added that nowadays expert quilters are very few indeed1 and enthusiasts who have spent weeks piecing a beautiful quilt have been known to wait a year before being able to get it quilted by an expert in this art4 ,on the thin cotton quilts that have the elaborate quilting designs and are the pride of the owner1 the quilting is done with fine cotton thread1 about number seventy4 ,the running stitch used in quilting should be as small and even as it is possible for the quilter to make4 ,this is a very difficult feat to accomplish1 since the quilt composed of two thicknesses of cloth with an interlining of cotton is stretched so tightly in the frame that it is quite difficult to push the needle through4 ,also the quilter1 while bending over the frame with one hand above and one hand below1 is in a somewhat unnatural strained position4 ,it requires much patience to acquire the knack of sitting in the rather uncomfortable quilter's position without quickly tiring4 ,skill and speed in quilting can be acquired only through much practice4 ,perfect quilting cannot be turned out by a novice in the art1 no matter how skilful she may be at other kinds of needlework4 ,the patience and skill of the quilter are especially taxed when1 in following the vagaries of some design1 she is forced to quilt lines that extend away from her instead of toward her4 ,as the result of many years spent over the quilting frame1 some quilters acquire an unusual dexterity in handling the needle1 and occasionally one is encountered who can quilt as well with one hand as with the other4 ,illustration3 ,,original ,,designs ,,from ,,old ,,quilts ,illustration3 ,,charter ,,oak ,with the ,american eagle in the border ,illustration3 ,,puffed ,,quilt ,,of ,,silk ,this is a very popular pieced quilt1 composed of carefully saved bits of silks and velvets ,quilting is usually paid for by the amount of thread used1 no consideration being given to the amount of time expended on the work4 ,a spool of cotton thread1 such as is found in every dry-goods store1 averaging two hundred yards to the spool1 is the universal measure4 ,the price charged is more a matter of locality than excellence of workmanship4 ,a certain price will prevail in one section among all quilters there1 while in another1 not far removed1 two or three times that price will be asked for the same work4 ,when many of the old quilts1 now treasured as remembrances of our diligent and ambitious ancestors1 were made1 one dollar per spool was the usual price paid for quilting4 ,however1 as the number of quilters has decreased1 the price of quilting has increased1 until as much as five dollars per spool is now asked in some parts of the country4 ,even at the advanced prices1 it is exceedingly difficult to find sufficient quilters to complete the many pieced and appliqu quilts being made4 ,after the space of some twelve inches1 which is as far as the quilter can reach conveniently1 has been quilted1 the completed portion is rolled up on the side of the frame nearest the quilter4 ,from the other side another section is then unrolled and marked for quilting1 and quilted as far as the worker can reach4 ,thus quilting and rolling are continued until the whole quilt is gone over1 after which it is taken from the frame and the edges neatly bound with a narrow piece of bias material1 either white or of some harmonizing colour4 ,since all of the stitches are taken entirely through the quilt1 the design worked into the top is repeated on the lining1 so that the back makes a white spread of effective pattern in low relief4 ,very often the back or reverse side is as beautiful as the top1 and many lovely quilts have ended their years of service as white counterpanes during that period when the vogue for white beds reigned4 ,now1 however1 owners are glad to display them in all their gorgeousness1 and they no longer masquerade as white bedspreads4 ,occasionally the date of making and the initials of the maker are quilted in a corner1 but it is seldom that even this much is visible to tell of the quilt's origin4 ,how interesting it would be if some bits of the story of the maker could have been sewed into a few of the old quilts2 for such works of art1 that are so long in making1 deserve to have some facts relating to them live at least as long as they4 ,when a bedcover of exceptional warmth is desired1 several sheets of cotton or wool prepared for that purpose are laid one over the other between the top and back4 ,as this is too thick to allow a needle to be pushed through easily1 and even stitches cannot be taken1 then quilting gives way to tying or knotting4 ,threads of silk1 cotton1 linen1 or wool are drawn through with coarse needles and the ends tied in tight1 firm knots4 ,these knots are arranged at close1 regular intervals to prevent the interlining from slipping out of place4 ,to this kind of covering is applied the very appropriate name of comfort4 ,holland1 ,germany1 ,switzerland1 and all of ,scandinavia use quilted down and feather comforts4 ,in fact1 the down comfort has become international in its use4 ,it is found in almost every home in the colder regions of ,europe and ,america1 and on chilly nights is a comfort indeed4 ,they are usually made in one colour and1 aside from the quilting1 which is in bold1 artistic designs1 are without other decoration4 ,the quilting on down comforts is done by machines made expressly for that work4 ,quilting is not confined to the making of quilts4 ,the petticoats worn by the women of ,holland are substantial affairs made of either woollen cloth or satin1 as the purse permits1 heavily interlined and elaborately quilted4 ,the ,dutch belle requires from four to nine of these skirts to give her the figure typical of her country4 ,both the ,chinese and ,japanese make frequent use of quilting in their thickly padded coats and kimonos1 and it may be that from them the early ,dutch voyagers and traders brought back the custom to ,holland4 ,illustration3 7a7 ,design from an ,old ,english ,quilt 7b7 ,medallion ,design 7c7 ,pineapple ,design ,illustration3 ,,variegated ,,hexagon1 ,,silk ,colours3 cherry1 light blue1 pink1 black1 and a yellow centre ,illustration3 ,,roman ,,stripe1 ,,silk ,a knowledge of the simplest form of sewing is all that is necessary to piece quilts4 ,the running stitch used for narrow seams is the first stitch a beginner learns4 ,there are other stitches needed to make a patchwork quilt1 which frequently develops into quite an elaborate bit of needlework4 ,the applied designs should always be neatly hemmed to the foundation2 some1 however1 are embroidered and the edges of the designs finished with a buttonhole stitch1 and other fancy stitches may be introduced4 ,in quilt making1 as in every other branch of needlework1 much experience is required to do good work4 ,it takes much time and practice to acquire accuracy in cutting and arranging all the different pieces4 ,a discriminating eye for harmonizing colours is also a great advantage4 ,but above all requirements the quilt maker must be an expert needleworker1 capable of making the multitude of tiny stitches with neatness and precision if she would produce the perfect quilt4 ,appreciation of nature is an attribute of many quilt makers1 as shown by their efforts to copy various forms of leaf and flower4 ,there are many conventionalized floral patterns on appliqu quilts that give evidence of much ability and originality in their construction4 ,for the pioneer woman there was no convenient school of design1 and when she tired of the oft-repeated quilt patterns of her neighbourhood she turned to her garden for suggestions4 ,the striking silhouettes of familiar blossoms seen on many quilts are the direct result of her nature study4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,quilt ,,names ,among the most fascinating features of quilt lore are the great number and wonderful variety of names given to quilt designs4 ,a distinct individuality is worked into every quilt by its maker1 which in most instances makes it worthy of a name4 ,the many days spent in creating even a simple quilt give the maker ample time in which to ponder over a name for the design1 so that the one selected generally reflects some peculiarity in her personality4 ,history1 politics1 religion1 nature1 poetry1 and romance1 all are stitched into the gayly coloured blocks and exert their influence on quilt appellations4 ,careful consideration of a large number of quilts reveals but few that have been named in a haphazard way2 in nearly every instance there was a reason or at least a suggestion for the name4 ,in most cases the relation between name and design is so evident that the correct name at once suggests itself1 even to the novice in quilt making4 ,the common star pattern1 in which one star is made the centre of each block1 is invariably known as the ,five-pointed ,star4 ,a variation in the size of the stars or the number of colours entering into their composition has not resulted in any new name4 ,it is quite usual1 however1 when there is a slight deviation from a familiar pattern1 resulting from either the introduction of some variation or by the omission of a portion of the old design1 to make a corresponding change in the name4 ,good illustrations of this custom are the minor alterations which have been made in the tree trunk of the tree pattern4 ,these may be so slight as to be entirely unobserved by the casual admirer1 yet they are responsible for at least three new names3 ,pine ,tree1 ,temperance ,tree1 and ,tree of ,paradise4 ,a minor change in the ordinary ,nine ,patch1 with a new name as a result1 is another striking example of how very slight an alteration may be in order to inspire a new title4 ,in this case1 the central block is cut somewhat larger than in the old ,nine ,patch1 and the four corner blocks are1 by comparison with the centre block1 quite small4 ,this slight change is in reality a magical transformation1 for the staid ,nine ,patch has now become a lively ,puss-in-the-,corner4 ,the changes in some patterns have come about through efforts to make a limited amount of highly prized colour brighten a whole quilt4 ,this circumstance1 as much as any other1 has been the cause of new names4 ,illustration3 ,,american ,,log ,,cabin1 ,,silk ,,and ,,wool ,in ,colonial days this was known as a pressed quilt ,illustration3 ,,democrat ,,rose ,made in ,pennsylvania about #ahde ,important events occurring during the construction periods of old quilts are quite frequently recalled to us by their names4 ,the stirring frontier activities and the great men of history made impressions on the mind of the housewife which found expression in the names of her quilts4 ,washington's ,plumes1 ,mexican ,rose1 and ,rose of ,dixie are old quilt names reflecting domestic interest in important events4 ,the hardships and vicissitudes endured by the sturdy pioneers were constantly in the minds of the early ,american quilters and inspired many names4 ,pilgrim's ,pride1 ,bear's ,paws1 ,rocky ,road to ,kansas1 ,texas ,tears1 and ,rocky ,road to ,california have great interest as they reveal to us the thoughts of our great-grandmothers over their quilting frames4 ,the names having political significance1 which were attached to quilts1 show that the women as well as the men had a keen interest in the affairs of our country in its earlier days4 ,old ,tippecanoe1 ,lincoln's ,platform1 ,harrison ,rose1 ,democrat ,rose1 ,whig ,rose1 and ,radical ,rose are all suggestive of the great discussion over slavery4 ,of the last name1 an old lady1 famous for her quilt making1 said3 ,here's my ',radical ,rose4' ,i reckon you've heard ,i was the first human that ever put black in a ,radical ,rose4 ,thar hit is1 right plumb in the middle4 ,well1 whenever you see black in a ,radical ,rose you can know hit war made atter the second year of the war 7,civil ,war74 ,hit was this way1 ever' man war a-talkin' about the ,radicals and all the women tuk to makin' ,radical ,roses4 ,one day ,i got to studying that thar ought to be some black in that thar pattern1 sence half the trouble was to free the niggers1 and hit didn't look fair to leave them out4 ,and from that day to this thar's been black in ever' ,radical ,rose4 ,other names having patriotic1 political1 or historical significance are3 ,union ,yankee ,puzzle ,continental ,union ,calico ,quilt ,star-,spangled ,banner ,confederate ,rose ,boston ,puzzle ,there is also the ,centennial in commemoration of the ,centennial ,exposition held at ,philadelphia in #ahgf1 and ,the ,world's ,fair1 ,world's ,fair ,puzzle1 and ,world's ,fair ,blocks to perpetuate the grandeurs of the great exposition held at ,chicago in #ahic4 ,religion is closely associated with the life of the industrious1 sober-minded dwellers of our villages and farms1 and it is the most natural thing in the world for the ,biblical teachings to crop out in the names of their quilts1 as the following names indicate3 ,garden of ,eden ,golden ,gates ,jacob's ,ladder ,joseph's ,coat ,solomon's ,temple ,solomon's ,crown ,star of ,bethlehem ,tree of ,paradise ,forbidden ,fruit ,tree ,the glories of the sky enjoy ample prominence among quilt names4 ,beginning with the ,rising ,sun1 of which there are several different designs1 there follow ,sunshine and ,sunburst1 then ,rainbow1 and finally a whole constellation of ,stars3 ,blazing ,star ,brunswick ,star ,combination ,star ,chicago ,star ,columbia ,star ,crosses and ,stars ,cluster of ,stars ,california ,star ,diamond ,star ,eight-pointed ,star ,evening ,star ,feather ,star ,five-pointed ,star ,flying ,star ,four ,x ,star ,four ,stars ,patch ,joining ,star ,ladies' ,beautiful ,star ,morning ,star ,new ,star ,novel ,star ,odd ,star ,premium ,star ,ribbon ,star ,rolling ,star ,sashed ,star ,seven ,stars ,star ,lane ,star of ,bethlehem ,star and ,chains ,star of ,many ,points ,star and ,squares ,star and ,cubes ,star ,puzzle ,shooting ,star ,star of the ,west ,star and ,cross ,star of ,texas ,stars upon ,stars ,squares and ,stars ,st4 ,louis ,star ,star1 ,a ,twinkling ,star ,union ,star ,wheel and ,star ,western ,star ,in connection with the ,star quilt names it is worthy of notice that geometric names outnumber those of any other class4 ,squares1 triangles1 and circles are well represented1 but the ,stars easily lead with nearly fifty names4 ,names of various other geometric patterns appear below3 ,art ,square ,barrister's ,blocks ,beggar's ,blocks ,box ,blocks ,circle within ,circle ,cross within ,cross ,cross and ,crown ,cube ,work ,cube ,lattice ,diamonds ,diamond ,cube ,diamond ,design ,double ,squares ,domino and ,square ,eight-point ,design ,five ,stripes ,fool's ,square ,four ,points ,greek ,cross ,greek ,square ,hexagonal ,interlaced ,blocks ,maltese ,cross ,memory ,blocks ,memory ,circle ,new ,four ,patch ,new ,nine ,patch ,octagon ,pinwheel ,square ,red ,cross ,ribbon ,squares ,roman ,cross ,sawtooth ,patchwork ,square and ,swallow ,square and a ,half ,squares and ,stripes ,square and ,triangle ,stripe ,squares ,the ,cross ,the ,diamond ,triangle ,puzzle ,triangular ,triangle ,variegated ,diamonds ,variegated ,hexagons ,illustration3 ,,pink ,,rose ,,design ,names of a nautical turn are to be expected for quilts which originate in seaside cottages and seaport villages4 ,bounding ,betty1 ,ocean ,waves1 and ,storm at ,sea have a flavour as salty as the spray which dampens them when they are spread out to sun by the sandy shore4 ,that poetry and romance have left their mark on the quilt is shown by the names that have been drawn from these sources4 ,lady of the ,lake1 ,charm1 ,air ,castle1 ,wheel of ,fortune1 and ,wonder of the ,world are typical examples4 ,sentimental names are also in evidence1 as ,love ,rose1 ,lovers' ,links1 ,true ,lovers' ,knot1 ,friendship ,quilt1 and ,wedding ,knot4 ,nature furnishes more suggestions for beautiful quilt designs than any other source4 ,so frequently are her models resorted to by quilt makers the world over that many different designs have been inspired by the same leaf or flower4 ,the rose especially is used again and again1 and will always be the favourite flower of the quilter4 ,there are at least twenty rose names to prove how this flower has endeared itself to the devotees of piece-block and quilting frame3 ,rose ,california ,rose ,complex ,rose ,confederate ,rose ,democrat ,rose ,dutch ,rose ,harrison ,rose ,harvest ,rose ,love ,rose ,mexican ,rose ,prairie ,rose ,rose of ,sharon ,rose of ,dixie ,rose of the ,carolinas ,rosebud and ,leaves ,rose ,album ,rose of ,le,moine ,radical ,rose ,whig ,rose ,wild ,rose ,wreath of ,roses ,other flowery names are also popular3 ,basket of ,lilies ,bouquet ,cleveland ,lilies ,cactus ,blossom ,chrysanthemums ,double ,peony ,daisies ,daffodils and ,butterflies ,field ,daisies ,flower ,basket ,iris ,jonquils ,lily ,quilt ,pattern ,lily of the ,valley ,morning ,glory ,morning ,gray ,wreath ,persian ,palm ,lady ,poppy ,pansies and ,butterflies ,single ,sunflowers ,sunflowers ,tulip in ,vase ,tassel ,plant ,tulip ,blocks ,three-flowered ,sunflower ,the ,mayflower ,tulip ,lady ,finger ,white ,day ,lily ,when seeking flowers that lend themselves readily to quilt designs it is best to choose those whose leaves and blossoms present clear1 distinct1 and easily traced outlines4 ,the names of many of the quaint varieties that flourish in old-fashioned gardens1 as lilacs1 phlox1 larkspur1 and marigolds1 are absent from the list4 ,this is because their lacy foliage and complex arrangement of petals cannot be reproduced satisfactorily in quilt materials4 ,even the lowly vegetables secure some mention among quilt names with ,corn and ,beans4 ,the fruits and trees are well represented1 as noted by the following list3 ,apple ,hexagon ,cherry ,basket ,california ,oak ,leaf ,cypress ,leaf ,christmas ,tree ,fruit ,basket ,grape ,basket ,hickory ,leaf ,imperial ,tea ,indian ,plum ,live ,oak ,tree ,little ,beech ,tree ,maple ,leaf ,may ,berry ,leaf ,olive ,branch ,orange ,peel ,oak ,leaf and ,tulip ,oak ,leaf and ,acorns ,pineapple ,pine ,tree ,sweet ,gum ,leaf ,strawberry ,tea ,leaf ,tufted ,cherry ,temperance ,tree ,tulip ,tree ,leaves ,the names of birds and insects are almost as popular as those of flowers1 as this list will bear witness3 ,bluebird ,brown-tailed ,moth ,butterflies ,bird's ,nest ,crow's ,foot ,chimney ,swallows ,cockscomb ,dove in the ,window ,duck and ,ducklings ,four ,little ,birds ,goose ,tracks ,goose in the ,pond ,honeycomb ,honeycomb ,patch ,hen and ,chickens ,king's ,crows ,peacocks and ,flowers ,spider's ,den ,shoo ,fly ,spider's ,web ,swarm of ,bees ,the ,two ,doves ,wild ,goose ,chase ,illustration3 ,,original ,,rose ,,no4 #c ,made in ,indiana about #ge years ago4 ,colors3 red and green ,illustration3 ,,white ,,quilt1 ,,with ,,stuffed ,,quilting ,,designs ,this quilt was made in ,new ,england1 and was finished in #ahja1 but how long a period was occupied in the making is unknown4 ,it was designed by a young architect for an ambitious young quilter ,the animals also must be credited with their share of names3 ,bear's ,foot ,bear's ,paws ,bat's ,wings ,bunnies ,cats and ,mice ,flying ,bat ,four ,frogs ,quilt ,leap ,frog ,puss-in-the-,corner ,the ,snail's ,trail ,toad in the ,puddle ,the ,lobster 7#ahab7 ,occasionally the quilt maker was honoured by having her name given to her handiwork1 as ,mrs4 ,morgan's ,choice1 ,mollie's ,choice1 ,sarah's ,favourite1 and ,fanny's ,fan4 ,aunts and grandmothers figure as prominently in the naming of quilts as they do in the making of them4 ,aunt ,sukey's ,patch1 ,aunt ,eliza's ,star ,point1 ,grandmother's ,own1 ,grandmother's ,dream1 and ,grandmother's ,choice are typical examples4 ,quilt names in which reference is made to persons and personalities are quite numerous1 as is proved by the list given below3 ,coxey's ,camp ,crazy ,ann ,dutchman's ,puzzle ,everybody's ,favourite ,eight ,hands ,around ,grandmother's ,choice ,garfield's ,monument ,gentleman's ,fancy ,handy ,andy ,hands ,all ,around ,hobson's ,kiss ,indian ,plumes ,indian ,hatchet ,jack's ,house ,joseph's ,necktie ,king's ,crown ,lady ,fingers ,ladies' ,wreath ,ladies' ,delight ,mary's ,garden ,mrs4 ,cleveland's ,choice ,old ,maid's ,puzzle ,odd ,fellows' ,chain ,princess ,feather ,president's ,quilt ,sister's ,choice ,the ,tumbler ,the ,hand ,the ,priscilla ,twin ,sisters ,vice-,president's ,quilt ,widower's ,choice ,washington's ,puzzle ,washington's ,sidewalk ,washington's ,plumes ,names derived both from local neighbourhoods and foreign lands occupy a prominent place in the quilt list3 ,arabic ,lattice ,american ,log ,patch ,arkansas ,traveller ,alabama ,beauty ,blackford's ,beauty ,boston ,puzzle ,columbian ,puzzle ,cross ,roads to ,texas ,double ,irish ,chain ,french ,basket ,grecian ,design ,indiana ,wreath ,irish ,puzzle ,kansas ,troubles ,linton ,london ,roads ,mexican ,rose ,oklahoma ,boomer ,philadelphia ,beauty ,philadelphia ,pavement ,rocky ,glen ,royal ,japanese ,vase ,rocky ,road to ,kansas ,rocky ,road to ,california ,road to ,california ,roman ,stripe ,rockingham's ,beauty ,rose of ,dixie ,rose of the ,carolinas ,star of ,texas ,texas ,flower ,the ,philippines ,texas ,tears ,venetian ,design ,village ,church ,virginia ,gentleman ,sometimes the names of a flower and a locality are combined1 as in ,persian ,palm ,lily and ,carolina ,lily4 ,this latter design is quite a popular one in the ,middle ,west1 where it is known also as ,star ,flower4 ,figures and letters come in for some attention1 for a few of the designs thus named are quite artistic4 ,the best known are ,boxed ,i's1 ,capital ,i1 ,double ,z1 ,four ,e's1 ,fleur-de-,lis1 ,letter ,h1 ,letter ,x1 and ,t ,quartette4 ,inanimate objects1 particularly those about the house1 inspired many names for patterns1 some of which are quite appropriate4 ,a number of such names are given here3 ,album ,base ,ball ,basket ,quilt ,block ,album ,brickwork ,quilt ,carpenter's ,rule ,carpenter's ,square ,churn ,dash ,cog ,wheel ,compass ,crossed ,canoes ,diagonal ,log ,chain ,domino ,double ,wrench ,flutter ,wheel ,fan ,fan ,patch ,fan and ,rainbow ,ferris ,wheel ,flower ,pot ,hour ,glass ,ice ,cream ,bowl ,log ,patch ,log ,cabin ,necktie ,needle ,book ,new ,album ,pincushion and ,burr ,paving ,blocks ,pickle ,dish ,rolling ,pinwheel ,rolling ,stone ,sashed ,album ,shelf ,chain ,snowflake ,snowball ,stone ,wall ,sugar ,loaf ,spools ,shield ,scissor's ,chain ,square ,log ,cabin ,the ,railroad ,the ,disk ,the ,globe ,the ,wheel ,tile ,patchwork ,watered ,ribbon ,wind ,mill ,occasionally the wag of the family had his opportunity1 for it took some one with a strain of dry humour to suggest ,old ,bachelor's ,puzzle1 ,drunkard's ,path1 and ,all ,tangled ,up1 or to have ironically called one quilt a ,blind ,man's ,fancy4 ,imagination was not lacking when it came to applying apt names to some of the simplest designs4 ,to have called rows of small triangles running diagonally across a quilt the ,wild ,goose ,chase1 the maker must have known something of the habits of wild geese1 for as these migrate from ,north to ,south and back again following the summer's warmth1 they fly one behind the other in long ,v-shaped lines4 ,the resemblance of these lines1 swiftly moving across the sky1 to her neat rows of triangles supplied the quilt maker with her inspiration4 ,illustration3 ,,white ,,quilt ,a very beautiful and original design1 made in ,new ,england over #abe years ago4 ,only part of the design has been stuffed ,illustration3 ,,old ,,ladies ,,quilting ,names that are grotesque1 or fanciful1 or so descriptive that their mention is sure to provoke a grin1 occur with pleasing frequency4 ,who can help but smile at ,hairpin ,catcher1 ,hearts and ,gizzards1 or ,tangled ,garters8 ,other grotesque names worthy of mention are3 ,an ,odd ,pattern ,autograph ,quilt ,boy's ,nonsense ,brick ,pile ,broken ,dish ,cake ,stand ,crazy ,quilt ,devil's ,puzzle ,fantastic ,patch ,fool's ,puzzle ,no ,name ,quilt ,pullman ,puzzle ,puzzle ,file ,robbing ,peter to ,pay ,paul ,state ,house ,steps ,steps to the ,altar ,swing in the ,centre ,the ,x quisite ,tick-,tack-,toe ,vestibule ,the everyday quilts1 not particularly beautiful1 perhaps1 but nevertheless so essential to the family comfort1 are also considered worthy of names4 ,homely and prosaic as their owners1 the following names have a peculiar rugged quality entirely lacking in the fanciful ones given to their more artistic sisters3 ,an ,old ,patchwork ,bedtime ,coarse ,woven ,patch ,country ,farm ,crib ,quilt ,crosses and ,losses ,economy ,home ,treasure ,odds and ,ends ,odd ,patchwork ,old ,scrap ,patchwork ,right and ,left ,simple ,design ,swinging ,corners ,the ,old ,homestead ,twist and ,turn ,twist ,patchwork ,winding ,walk ,workbox ,in the old days grown-up folks were not the only ones who had to do with naming the quilts2 children shared in the honour1 and many of the quaint and fantastic names were the result of humouring their fancies4 ,there was no ,b'rer ,rabbit in quilt lore1 but he was not missed when the two or three youngsters who cuddled in the old-fashioned trundle bed could have so many other fascinating names for their quilts4 ,four ,little ,birds1 ,ducks and ,ducklings1 ,children's ,delight1 ,the ,little ,red ,house1 ,goose in the ,pond1 ,the ,house ,that ,jack ,built1 ,toad in the ,puddle1 and ,johnny ,around the ,corner are some of the old names still in use to-day4 ,any one of these patterns made up into a quilt was a treasure to imaginative children1 and it was doubly so when they could pick out among the tiny blocks bits of colour that were once in their own gay dresses and pinafores4 ,clinging lavender wisteria1 sweet jasmine1 and even scarlet amaryllis pale beside the glowing colours displayed during sunny spring days on the gallery rails of many country homes through ,delaware and ,virginia4 ,these picturesque scenes1 in which the familiar domestic art supplies the essential touch of colour1 are aptly described by ,robert and ,elizabeth ,shackleton1 those indefatigable searchers for the beautiful among the relics of our forefathers4 ,in many a little village1 and in many an isolated mountain home1 the old-time art of making patchwork coverlets is remembered and practised4 ,some may be found that are generations old2 others are new1 but made in precisely the old-time way1 and after the same patterns4 ,many are in gorgeous colours1 in glowing yellows1 greens1 and purples2 and being a matter of housewifely pride1 they are often thrown over the 'gallery rail' so their glory may be seen4 ,one guest bed had nineteen quilts6 ,not to sleep under such a padded mountain1 but it was the most natural method of display4 ,each quilt had its name4 ,there was the ,western ,star1 the ,rose of the ,carolinas1 the ,log ,cabin1 the ,virginia ,gentleman1 the ,fruit ,basket1 the ,lily of the ,valley--as many special names as there are designs4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,quilt ,,collections ,,and ,,exhibitions ,in spite of their wide distribution and vast quantity1 the number of quilts readily accessible to those who are interested in them is exceedingly small4 ,this is particularly true of those quilts which possess artistic merit and historic interest1 and a considerable amount of inquiry is sometimes necessary in order to bring forth even a single quilt of more than ordinary beauty4 ,it is unfortunate for this most useful and pleasant art that its masterpieces are so shy and loath to display their charms1 for it is mainly from the rivalry induced by constant display that all arts secure their best stimulus4 ,however1 some very remarkable achievements in quilting have been brought to light from time to time1 to the great benefit of this best of household arts4 ,there is in existence to-day no complete collection of quilts readily available to the public at large4 ,no museum in this country or abroad has a collection worthy of the name1 the nearest approach to it being in the great ,south ,kensington ,museum in ,london4 ,while many institutions possess one or more specimens1 these have been preserved more often on account of some historic association than because of exceptional beauty or artistic merit4 ,it is only in the rare instance of a family collection1 resulting from the slow accumulation by more than one generation of quilt enthusiasts1 that a quilt collection at all worth while can be found4 ,in such a case the owner is generally so reticent concerning his treasures that the community as a whole is never given the opportunity to profit by them4 ,in families where accumulations have reached the dignity in numbers that will justify being called collections1 the quilts belonging to different branches of the family have been passed along from one generation to another1 until they have become the property of one person4 ,among collections of this sort are found many rare and beautiful quilts1 as only the best and choicest of all that were made have been preserved4 ,there are also occasional large collections of quilts that are the work of one industrious maker who has spent the greater portion of her life piecing and quilting4 ,the ,kentucky mountain woman who had eighty-three1 all different1 and all her own makin'1 is a typical example of this class4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,wind-,,blown ,,tulip ,,design ,seems to bring a breath of springtime both in form and colour4 ,even the border flowers seem to be waving and nodding in the breeze ,the vastness of their numbers and the great extent of their everyday use serve to check the collecting of quilts4 ,as a whole1 quilts are extremely heterogeneous and democratic2 they are made so generally over the whole country that no distinct types have been developed1 and they are possessed so universally that there is little social prestige to be gained by owning an uncommonly large number4 ,consequently even the most ardent quilt lovers are usually satisfied when they possess enough for their own domestic needs1 with perhaps a few extra for display in the guest chambers4 ,much of the social pleasure of the pioneer women was due to their widespread interest in quilts4 ,aside from the quilting bees1 which were notable affairs1 collecting quilt patterns was to many women a source of both interest and enjoyment4 ,even the most ambitious woman could not hope to make a quilt like every design which she admired1 so1 to appease the desire for the numerous ones she was unable to make1 their patterns were collected4 ,these collections of quilt patterns--often quite extensive1 frequently included single blocks of both pieced and patched designs4 ,there was always a neighbourly and friendly interest taken in such collections1 as popular designs were exchanged and copied many times4 ,choice remnants of prints and calicoes were also shared with the neighbours4 ,occasionally from trunks or boxes1 long hidden in dusty attics1 some of these old blocks come to light1 yellowed with age and frayed at the edges1 to remind us of the simple pleasures of our grandmothers4 ,at the present time there is a marked revival of interest in quilts and their making4 ,the evidences of this revival are the increasing demand for competent quilters1 the desire for new quilt patterns1 and the growing popularity of quilt exhibitions4 ,concerning exhibits of quilts1 there is apparent--at least in the northern part of the ,united ,states--a noticeable increase in popular appreciation of those held at county and state fairs4 ,this is a particularly fortunate circumstance for the development of the art1 because the county fair1 our one steadfast institution in a world of change1 is so intimately connected with the lives and is so dear to the hearts of our people4 ,illustration3 ,,quilts ,,on ,a ,,line ,illustration3 ,,grapes ,,and ,,vines ,in addition to the pleasures and social diversions which that annual rural festival--the county fair--affords1 it is an educational force that is not sufficiently appreciated by those who live beyond the reach of its spell4 ,at best1 country life contains long stretches of monotony1 and any interest with which it can be relieved is a most welcome addition to the lives of the women in rural communities4 ,at the fair women are touched to new thoughts on common themes4 ,they come to meet each other and talk over the latest kinks in jelly making1 the progress of their children1 and similar details of their family affairs4 ,they come to get standards of living and to gather ideas of home decoration and entertainment for the long evenings when intercourse1 even with the neighbours1 becomes infrequent4 ,there is not the least doubt concerning the beneficial influence of the local annual fair on the life of the adjacent neighbourhood4 ,at such a fair the presence of a varied and well-arranged display of needlework1 which has been produced by the womenfolk1 is of the greatest assistance in making the community one in which it is worth while to live4 ,not only does it serve as a stimulus to those who look forward to the fair and put into their art the very best of their ability in order that they may surpass their competitor next door1 but it also serves as an inspiration to those who are denied the faculty of creating original designs1 yet nevertheless take keen pleasure in the production of beautiful needlework4 ,it is to this latter class that an exhibition of quilts is of real value1 because it provides them with new patterns that can be applied to the quilts which must be made4 ,with fresh ideas for their inspiration1 work which would otherwise be tedious becomes a real pleasure4 ,for the women of the farm the exhibit of domestic arts and products occupies the preminent place at the county fair4 ,in this exhibit the display of patchwork is sure to arouse the liveliest enthusiasm4 ,a visitor at a fair in a western state very neatly describes this appreciation shown to quilts3 ,we used to hear a great deal about the sad and lonely fate of the western farmer's wife1 but there was little evidence of loneliness in the appearance of these women who surrounded the quilts and fancywork in the ,domestic ,arts ,building4 ,in connection with the display of needlework at rural fairs1 it is interesting to note how ancient is this custom4 ,in the ,social ,history of ,ancient ,ireland is the following description of an ,irish fair held during the fourth century--long before the advent of ,st4 ,patrick and ,christianity3 ,the people of ,leinster every three years during the first week of ,august held the ',fair of ,carman4' ,great ceremony and formality attended this event1 the ,king of ,leinster and his court officiating4 ,music formed a prominent part of the amusement4 ,one day was set apart for recitation of poems and romantic tales1 another for horse and chariot racing4 ,in another part of the ,fair people indulged in uproarious fun1 crowded around showmen1 jugglers1 clowns with painted faces or hideously grotesqued masks4 ,prizes publicly presented by ,king or dignitary were given to winners of various contests4 ,needlework was represented by 'the slope of the embroidering women1' where women actually did their work in the presence of spectators4 ,a very important factor in the recent revival of interest in quilts has been the springing up of impromptu exhibits as benefits for worthy causes1 the raising of funds for which is a matter of popular interest4 ,does a church need a new roof1 a hospital some more furnishings1 or a college a new building8 ,and have all the usual methods of raising money become hackneyed and uninspiring to those interested in furthering the project8 ,to those confronted with such a money-raising problem the quilt exhibition offers a most welcome solution4 ,for not only does such an exhibition offer a new form of entertainment1 but it also has sources of interesting material from which to draw that are far richer than commonly supposed4 ,not so very long ago ,the ,country ,contributor undertook the task of giving a quilt show1 and her description of it is distinctly worth while3 ,my ideas were a bit vague4 ,i had a mental picture of some beautiful quilts ,i knew of hung against a wall somewhere for people to come and look at and wonder over4 ,so we announced the quilt show and then went on our way rejoicing4 ,a good-natured school board allowed us to have the auditorium at the high school building for the display and the quilt agitation began4 ,illustration3 ,,as ,,golden ,,butterflies ,,and ,,pansies ,are so often playmates of little ones in the garden1 and beloved by them1 they were chosen for the motifs of this child's quilt ,a day or two before the show1 which was to be on a ,saturday1 it began to dawn upon me that ,i might be buried under an avalanche of quilts4 ,the old ones were terribly large4 ,they were made to cover a fat feather bed or two and to hang down to hide the trundle bed underneath1 and1 though the interlining of cotton was very thin and even1 still the weight of a quilt made by one's grandmother is considerable4 ,we betook ourselves to the school building at an early hour on ,saturday morning and the fun began4 ,we were to receive entries until one o'clock1 when the exhibition was to begin4 ,in looking back now at this little event1 ,i wonder we could have been so benighted as to imagine we could do it in a day6 ,after about an hour1 during which the quilts came in by the dozen1 ,i sent in a general alarm to friends and kindred for help4 ,we engaged a carpenter1 strung up wires and ropes1 and by some magic of desperation we got those quilts on display1 #aah of them1 by one o'clock4 ,one lovely feature of this quilt show was the reverence with which men brought to us the quilts their mothers made4 ,plain farmers1 busy workers1 retired business men1 came to us1 their faces softened to tenderness1 handed us1 with mingled pride and devotion1 their big bundle containing a contribution to the display1 saying in softened accents1 ',my mother made it4' ,and each and every quilt brought thus was worthy of a price on its real merit--not for its hallowed association alone4 ,time and space would fail if ,i should try to tell about the quilts that came in at our call for an exhibition4 ,there were so many prize quilts 7fully two thirds of the quilts entered deserved prizes7 that it is difficult to say what finally decided the blue ribbon4 ,however1 the quilt which finally carried it away was fairly typical of those of the early part of the nineteenth century4 ,a rose pattern was applied in coloured calicoes on each alternate block4 ,the geometrical calculation1 the miraculous neatness of this work1 can scarcely be exaggerated4 ,but this is not the wonder of the thing4 ,the real wonder is the quilting4 ,this consisted in copying the design1 petal for petal1 leaf for leaf1 in needlework upon every alternate block of white muslin4 ,how these workers accomplished the raised designs on plain white muslin is the mystery4 ,how raised flowers1 leaves1 plumes1 baskets1 bunches of fruit1 even animal and bird shapes1 could be shown in bas-relief on these quilt blocks without hopelessly 'puckering' the material1 none of us can imagine4 ,no other inspiration that can equal our fairs has been offered to the quilters of our day4 ,public recognition of good work and the premiums which accompany this recognition augment the desire to excel in the art of quilt making4 ,the keen competition engendered results in the most exact and painstaking work possible being put upon quilts that are entered for the blue ribbon4 ,the materials1 designs1 and colours chosen for these quilts are given the most careful consideration1 and the stitchery is as nearly perfect as it is possible to make it4 ,some of the finest old quilts that have been preserved are repeatedly exhibited at county and state fairs1 and have more than held their own with those made in recent years4 ,one shown at an exhibition of quilts and coverlets1 held in a city in southern ,indiana in #aiad1 had been awarded the first premium at thirty-seven different fairs4 ,this renowned and venerable quilt had been made more than seventy-five years before4 ,its design is the familiar one known as the ,rose of ,sharon2 both the needlework on the design and the quilting are exquisite1 the stitches being all but invisible4 ,a striking instance of the influence of fairs upon quilt making is shown in the number of beautiful quilts that have been made expressly for display in exhibitions at state fairs in the ,middle ,west4 ,one such collection1 worthy of special notice1 consists of seven quilts3 three of elaborate designs in patchwork and four made up of infinitesimal pieces4 ,every stitch1 both on the handsome tops and in the perfect quilting1 was wrought with careful patience by an old-time quilt maker4 ,the aggregate amount of stitching upon these seven quilts seems enough to constitute the work of a lifetime4 ,the material in these quilts1 except one which is of silk1 is fine white muslin and the reliable coloured calicoes of fifty years ago4 ,this extraordinary and beautiful collection is now being carefully preserved by an appreciative daughter1 who tells how it was possible for her mother to accomplish this great task of needlework4 ,the maker was the wife of a busy and prosperous farmer of northern ,indiana4 ,as on all farms in that region during the pioneer days1 the home was the centre of manufacture of those various articles necessary to the welfare and comfort of the family4 ,this indulgent farmer1 realizing that his wife's quilt making was work of a higher plane than routine housekeeping1 employed two stout daughters of a less fortunate neighbour to relieve her of the heavier household duties4 ,such work that required her direct supervision1 as jelly making and fruit canning1 was done in the evenings4 ,this allowed the ambitious little woman ample time to pursue her art during the bright clear hours of daylight4 ,belonging to the collections of individuals are many old quilts which possess more than ordinary interest1 not so much on account of their beauty or unusual patterns1 but because of their connection with some notable personage or historic event4 ,the number of quilts which are never used1 but which are most carefully treasured by their owners on account of some sentimental or historic association1 is far greater than generally supposed4 ,while most of the old quilts so jealously hidden in closet and linen chest have no extraordinary beauty1 yet from time to time there comes into notice one which possesses--in addition to its interesting connection with the past--an exquisite and mellow beauty which only tasteful design enhanced by age can give4 ,quite often beautiful quilts are found in old trunks and bureaus1 which have gathered dust for untold years in attics and storerooms4 ,opportunities to ransack old garrets are greatly appreciated by collectors1 as the uncertainty of what may be found gives zest to their search4 ,it was of such old treasure trove that the hangings were found to make what ,harriet ,beecher ,stowe in her novel1 ,the ,minister's ,wooing1 calls the garret boudoir4 ,this was a cozy little enclosure made by hanging up old quilts1 blankets1 and coverlets so as to close off one corner of the garret4 ,her description of an old quilt used in this connection is especially interesting4 ,it was a bed quilt pieced in tiny blocks1 none of them bigger than a sixpence1 containing1 as ,mrs4 ,katy said1 pieces of the gowns of all her grandmothers1 aunts1 cousins1 and female relatives for years back2 and mated to it was one of the blankets which had served ,mrs4 ,scudder's uncle in his bivouac at ,valley ,forge4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,snowflake ,,quilt ,,design ,brings to one's imagination the sharp-pointed1 glistening snowflakes against a background of blue sky4 ,the quilting in fine stitches simulates the applied pattern1 and the border suggests drifts of snow as one sees them after a winter's storm ,to view the real impromptu exhibitions of quilts--for which1 by the way1 no admission fee is charged--one should drive along any country road on a bright sunny day in early spring4 ,it is at this time that the household bedding is given its annual airing1 and consequently long lines hung with quilts are frequent and interesting sights4 ,during this periodical airing there becomes apparent a seemingly close alliance between patchwork and nature1 as upon the soft green background of new leaves the beauty of the quilts is thrown into greater prominence4 ,all the colours of the rainbow can be seen in the many varieties of design1 for there is not a line that does not bear a startling ,lone ,star of ,texas1 ,rising ,sun1 or some equally attractive pattern4 ,gentle breezes stir the quilts so that their designs and colours gain in beauty as they slowly wave to and fro4 ,when the apple1 cherry1 and peach trees put on their new spring dresses of delicate blossoms and stand in graceful groups in the background1 then the picture becomes even more charming4 ,this periodical airing spreads from neighbour to neighbour1 and as one sunny day follows another all the clothes lines become weighted with burdens of brightest hues4 ,of course1 there is no rivalry between owners1 or no unworthy desire to show off1 yet1 have you ever seen a line full of quilts hung wrong side out8 ,it has been suggested that at an exhibition is the logical place to see quilts bloom4 ,yet1 while it is a rare chance to see quilts of all kinds and in all states of preservation1 yet it is much like massing our wild ,sweet ,williams1 ,spring ,beauties1 and ,violets in a crowded greenhouse4 ,they bravely do their best1 but you can fairly see them gasping for the fresh1 free air of their woodland homes4 ,a quilt hung on a clothes line in the dooryard and idly flapping in the wind receives twice the appreciation given one which is sedately folded across a wire with many others in a crowded1 jealous row4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,quilt',s ,,place ,,in ,,american ,,homes ,the dominant characteristics of quilt making are companionship and concentrated interest4 ,both of these qualities1 or--better yet--virtues1 must be in evidence in order to bring a quilt to successful completion4 ,the sociable1 gossipy quilting bee1 where the quilt is put together and quilted1 has planted in every community in which it is an institution the seeds of numberless lifelong friendships4 ,these friendships are being made over the quilting frames to-day just as they were in the pioneer times when a quilting was almost the only social diversion4 ,content with life1 fixity of purpose1 development of individuality1 all are brought forth in every woman who plans and pieces a quilt4 ,the reward of her work lies1 not only in the pleasure of doing1 but also in the joy of possession--which can be passed on even to future generations1 for a well-made quilt is a lasting treasure4 ,all this is quite apart from the strictly useful functions which quilts perform so creditably in every home1 for quilts are useful as well as artistic4 ,in summer nights they are the ideal emergency covering for the cool hour before dawn1 or after a rapid drop in temperature1 caused by a passing thunderstorm4 ,but in the long chill nights of winter1 when the snow sifts in through the partly raised window and all mankind snuggles deeper into the bed clothes1 then all quilts may be truly said to do their duty4 ,and right well they do it1 too1 as all those who love to linger within their cozy shelter on frosty ,december mornings will testify4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,dogwood ,,quilt ,offers another choice in flower designs4 ,the full-grown blossoms on the green background remind us of the beauty of trees and flowers in early spring ,as a promoter of good-will and neighbourly interest during the times when our new country was being settled1 and woman's social intercourse was very limited1 the quilting bee holds a worthy place close beside the meeting-house4 ,the feeling of coperation so noticeable in all men and growing communities1 and which is really essential for their success1 is aptly described in the old ,annals of ,tennessee1 published by ,dr4 ,j4 ,g4 ,m4 ,ramsey in #ahec 7,dedicated to the surviving pioneers of ,tennessee73 ,to say of one he has no neighbours was sufficient1 in those times of mutual wants and mutual benefactions1 to make the churl infamous and execrable4 ,a failure to ask a neighbour to a raising1 clearing1 a chopping frolic1 or his family to a quilting1 was considered a high indignity2 such an one1 too1 as required to be explained or atoned for at the next muster or county court4 ,each settler was not only willing but desirous to contribute his share to the general comfort and public improvement1 and felt aggrieved and insulted if the opportunity to do so were withheld4 ',it is a poor dog that is not worth whistling for1' replied the indignant neighbour who was allowed to remain at home1 at his own work1 while a house raising was going on in the neighbourhood4 ',what injury have ,i done that ,i am slighted so8' ,quilts occupied a preminent place in the rural social scheme1 and the quilting bees were one of the few social diversions afforded outside of the church4 ,much drudgery was lightened by the joyful anticipation of a neighbourhood quilting bee4 ,the preparations for such an important event were often quite elaborate4 ,as a form of entertainment quilting bees have stood the test of time1 and from colonial days down to the present have furnished much pleasure in country communities4 ,in a quaint little book published in #ahgb by ,mrs4 ,p4 ,g4 ,gibbons1 under the title1 ,pennsylvania ,dutch1 is a detailed description of a country quilting that ,mrs4 ,gibbons attended4 ,the exact date of this social affair is not given1 but judging from other closely related incidents mentioned by the writer1 it must have taken place about #ahdj1 in ,lancaster ,county1 ,pennsylvania4 ,the account reads as follows3 ,aunt ,sally had her quilt up in her landlord's east room1 for her own was too small4 ,however1 at about eleven she called us over to dinner1 for people who have breakfasted at five or six have an appetite at eleven4 ,we found on the table beefsteaks1 boiled pork1 sweet potatoes1 ',kohl-slaw1' pickled cucumbers and red beets1 apple butter and preserved peaches1 pumpkin and apple pie1 sponge cake and coffee4 ,after dinner came our next neighbours1 'the maids1' ,susy and ,katy ,groff1 who live in single blessedness and great neatness4 ,they wore pretty1 clear-starched ,mennonist caps1 very plain4 ,katy is a sweet-looking woman and1 although she is more than sixty years old1 her forehead is almost unwrinkled1 and her fine hair is still brown4 ,it was late when the farmer's wife came--three o'clock2 for she had been to ,lancaster4 ,she wore hoops and was of the 'world's people4' ,these women all spoke ',dutch1' for the maids1 whose ancestors came here probably one hundred and fifty years ago1 do not speak ,english with fluency yet4 ,the first subject of conversation was the fall house-cleaning2 and ,i heard mention of 'die carpett hinaus an der fence' and 'die fenshter und die porch1' and the exclamation1 ',my goodness1 es was schlimm4' ,i quilted faster than ,katy ,groff1 who showed me her hands1 and said1 ',you have not been corn husking1 as ,i have4' ,so we quilted and rolled1 talked and laughed1 got one quilt done1 and put in another4 ,the work was not fine2 we laid it out by chalking around a small plate4 ,aunt ,sally's desire was rather to get her quilting finished upon this great occasion than for us to put in a quantity of fine needlework4 ,about five o'clock we were called to supper4 ,i need not tell you all the particulars of this plentiful meal2 but the stewed chicken was tender and we had coffee again4 ,polly ,m's husband now came over the creek in the boat1 to take her home1 and he warned her against the evening dampness4 ,the rest of us quilted a while by candles1 and got the second quilt done at about seven4 ,at this quilting there was little gossip1 and less scandal4 ,i displayed my new alpaca and my dyed merino and the ,philadelphia bonnet which exposes the back of my head to the wintry blast4 ,polly1 for her part1 preferred a black silk sunbonnet2 and so we parted1 with mutual invitations to visit4 ,the proverbial neatness of the ancestors of the ,dutch colonists in ,america was characteristic of their homes in the new land4 ,this is well illustrated in the following description of a ,pennsylvania ,dutch farmer's home1 similar to the one in which the quilting above mentioned took place3 ,we keep one fire in winter4 ,this is in the kitchen which1 with nice housekeepers1 is the abode of neatness1 with its rag carpet and brightly polished stove4 ,adjoining the kitchen is a state apartment1 also rag-carpeted1 and called 'the room4' ,will you go upstairs in a neat ,dutch farmhouse8 ,there are rag carpets again4 ,gay quilts are on the best beds1 where green and red calico1 perhaps in the form of a basket1 are displayed on a white ground2 or the beds bear brilliant coverlets of red1 white1 and blue1 as if to 'make the rash gazer wipe his eyes4' ,there are many things to induce women to piece quilts4 ,the desire for a handsome bed furnishing1 or the wish to make a gift of one to a dear friend1 have inspired some women to make quilts4 ,with others1 quilt making is a recreation1 a diversion1 a means of occupying restless fingers4 ,however1 the real inducement is love of the work2 because the desire to make a quilt exceeds all other desires4 ,in such a case it is worked on persistently1 laid aside reluctantly1 and taken up each time with renewed interest and pleasure4 ,it is this intense interest in the work which produces the most beautiful quilts4 ,on quilts that are made because of the genuine interest in the work1 the most painstaking efforts are put forth2 the passing of time is not considered2 and the belief of the majority of such quilt makers1 though unconfessed1 doubtless1 is the equivalent of the old ,arab proverb that ,slowness comes from ,god1 but hurry from the devil4 ,all women who are lonely do not live in isolated farmhouses1 prairie shacks1 or remote villages4 ,in reality1 there are more idle1 listless hands in the hearts of crowded bustling cities than in the quiet country4 ,city women1 surrounded by many enticing distractions1 are turning more and more to patchwork as a fascinating yet nerve-soothing occupation4 ,not only is there a sort of companionship between the maker and the quilt1 but there is also the great benefit derived from having found a new interest in life1 something worth while that can be built up by one's own efforts4 ,an anecdote is told of a woman living in a quiet little ,new ,england village who complained of her loneliness there1 where the quilting bees were the only saving features of an otherwise colourless existence4 ,she told the interested listener that in this out-of-the-way hamlet she did not mind the monotony much because there were plenty of quiltings1 adding that she had helped that winter at more than twenty-five quilting bees2 besides this1 she had made a quilt for herself and also helped on some of those of her immediate neighbours4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,wild ,,rose ,that loves to grow in fragrant1 tangled masses by the roadside was made to march in prim rows on this child's quilt ,american women rarely think of quilts as being made or used outside of their own country4 ,in reality quilts are made in almost every land on the face of the earth4 ,years ago1 when the first ,new ,england missionaries were sent to the ,hawaiian ,islands1 the native women were taught to piece quilts1 which they continue to do down to this day4 ,these ,hawaiian women treasure their handiwork greatly1 and some very old and beautiful quilts are to be found among these islands4 ,in creating their patchwork they have wandered from the ,puritanical designs of their teachers1 and have intermingled with the conventional figures the gorgeous flowers that bloom beside their leaf-thatched1 vine-covered huts4 ,to these women1 also1 patchwork fills a place4 ,it affords a means of expression for individuality and originality in the same way that it does for the lonely ,new ,england women and for the isolated mountaineers of ,kentucky4 ,harriet ,beecher ,stowe1 immortalized by ,uncle ,tom's ,cabin1 produced other stories1 not now so familiar to us as to our countrymen of the ,civil ,war period1 which showed an intimate knowledge of the home life of the ,american people as well as the vital questions of her day4 ,in her novel entitled the ,minister's ,wooing1 which ran first as a serial in the ,atlantic ,monthly in #ahei1 she describes a quilting supposed to have been given about the year #ahjj4 ,here we can view at close range a real old-fashioned quilting1 and gain some insight into its various incidents of sociability and gossip1 typical of an early ,new ,england seafaring village1 as set forth in ,mrs4 ,stowe's inimitable style3 ,by two o'clock a goodly company began to assemble4 ,mrs4 ,deacon ,twitchel arrived1 soft1 pillowy1 and plaintive as ever1 accompanied by ,cerinthy ,ann1 a comely damsel1 tall and trim1 with a bright black eye and a most vigorous and determined style of movement4 ,good ,mrs4 ,jones1 broad1 expansive1 and solid1 having vegetated tranquilly on in the cabbage garden of the virtues since three years ago1 when she graced our tea party1 was now as well preserved as ever1 and brought some fresh butter1 a tin pail of cream1 and a loaf of cake made after a new ,philadelphia receipt4 ,the tall1 spare1 angular figure of ,mrs4 ,simeon ,brown alone was wanting2 but she patronized ,mrs4 ,scudder no more1 and tossed her head with a becoming pride when her name was mentioned4 ,the quilt pattern was gloriously drawn in oak leaves1 done in indigo2 and soon all the company1 young and old1 were passing busy fingers over it1 and conversation went on briskly4 ,madame de ,frontignac1 we must not forget to say1 had entered with hearty abandon into the spirit of the day4 ,she had dressed the tall china vases on the mantelpiece1 and1 departing from the usual rule of an equal mixture of roses and asparagus bushes1 had constructed two quaint and graceful bouquets where garden flowers were mingled with drooping grasses and trailing wild vines1 forming a graceful combination which excited the surprise of all who saw it4 ',it's the very first time in my life that ,i ever saw grass put into a flower pot1' said ,miss ,prissy1 'but ,i must say it looks as handsome as a picture4 ,mary1 ,i must say1' she added1 in an aside1 ',i think that ,madame de ,frontignac is the sweetest dressing and appearing creature ,i ever saw2 she don't dress up nor put on airs1 but she seems to see in a minute how things ought to go2 and if it's only a bit of grass1 or leaf1 or wild vine1 that she puts in her hair1 why1 it seems to come just right4 ,i should like to make her a dress1 for ,i know she would understand my fit2 do speak to her1 ,mary1 in case she should want a dress fitted here1 to let me try it4' ,at the quilting ,madame de ,frontignac would have her seat1 and soon won the respect of the party by the dexterity with which she used her needle2 though1 when it was whispered that she learned to quilt among the nuns1 some of the elderly ladies exhibited a slight uneasiness1 as being rather doubtful whether they might not be encouraging papistical opinions by allowing her an equal share in the work of getting up their minister's bed quilt2 but the younger part of the company was quite captivated by her foreign air and the pretty manner in which she lisped her ,english2 and ,cerinthy ,ann even went so far as to horrify her mother by saying that she wished she'd been educated in a convent herself1 a declaration which arose less from native depravity than from a certain vigorous disposition1 which often shows itself in young people1 to shock the current opinions of their elders and betters4 ,of course1 the conversation took a general turn1 somewhat in unison with the spirit of the occasion2 and whenever it flagged1 some allusion to a forthcoming wedding1 or some sly hint at the future young ,madame of the parish was sufficient to awaken the dormant animation of the company4 ,illustration3 ,,morning ,,glory ,it must be early to bed and early to rise for the child who would see the sweet morning glory in all its loveliness1 as it must be found before all the dew is gone ,cerinthy ,ann contrived to produce an agreeable electric shock by declaring that for her part she never could see into it how any girl could marry a minister2 that she should as soon think of setting up housekeeping in a meeting-house4 ',oh1 ,cerinthy ,ann6' exclaimed her mother1 'how can you go on so8' ',it's a fact1' said the adventurous damsel2 'now other men let you have some peace1 but a minister's always round under your feet4' ',so you think the less you see of a husband1 the better8' said one of the ladies4 ',just my views6' said ,cerinthy1 giving a decided snip to her thread with her scissors4 ',i like the ,nantucketers1 that go off on four years' voyages1 and leave their wives a clear field4 ,if ever ,i get married1 ,i'm going up to have one of those fellows4' ,it is to be remarked1 in passing1 that ,miss ,cerinthy ,ann was at this very time receiving surreptitious visits from a consumptive-looking1 conscientious young theological candidate1 who came occasionally to preach in the vicinity1 and put up at the house of the deacon1 her father4 ,this good young man1 being violently attacked on the doctrine of election by ,miss ,cerinthy1 had been drawn on to illustrate it in a most practical manner1 to her comprehension2 and it was the consciousness of the weak and tottering state of the internal garrison that added vigour to the young lady's tones4 ,as ,mary had been the chosen confidante of the progress of this affair1 she was quietly amused at the demonstration4 ',you'd better take care1 ,cerinthy ,ann1' said her mother1 'they say that those who sing before breakfast will cry before supper4 ,girls talk about getting married1' she said1 relapsing into a gentle melancholy1 'without realizing its awful responsibilities4' ',oh1 as to that1' said ,cerinthy1 ',i've been practising on my pudding now these six years1 and ,i shouldn't be afraid to throw one up chimney with any girl4' ,this speech was founded on a tradition1 current in those times1 that no young lady was fit to be married till she could construct a boiled ,indian pudding of such consistency that it could be thrown up a chimney and come down on the ground outside without breaking2 and the consequence of ,cerinthy ,ann's sally was a general laugh4 ',girls ain't what they used to be in my day1' sententiously remarked an elderly lady4 ',i remember my mother told me when she was thirteen she could knit a long cotton stocking in a day4' ',i haven't much faith in these stories of old times1 have you1 girls8' said ,cerinthy1 appealing to the younger members at the frame4 ',at any rate1' said ,mrs4 ,twitchel1 'our minister's wife will be a pattern2 ,i don't know anybody that goes beyond her either in spinning or fine stitching4' ,mary sat as placid and disengaged as the new moon1 and listened to the chatter of old and young with the easy quietness of a young heart that has early outlived life and looks on everything in the world from some gentle1 restful eminence far on toward a better home4 ,she smiled at everybody's word1 had a quick eye for everybody's wants1 and was ready with thimble1 scissors1 or thread1 whenever any one needed them2 but once1 when there was a pause in the conversation1 she and ,mrs4 ,marvyn were both discovered to have stolen away4 ,they were seated on the bed in ,mary's little room1 with their arms around each other1 communing in low and gentle tones4 ',mary1 my dear child1' said her friend1 'this event is very pleasant to me1 because it places you permanently near me4 ,i did not know but eventually this sweet face might lead to my losing you who are in some respects the dearest friend ,i have4' ',you might be sure1' said ,mary1 ',i never would have married1 except that my mother's happiness and the happiness of so good a friend seemed to depend on it4 ,when we renounce self in anything we have reason to hope for ,god's blessing2 and so ,i feel assured of a peaceful life in the course ,i have taken4 ,you will always be as a mother to me1' she added1 laying her head on her friend's shoulder4 ',yes1' said ,mrs4 ,marvyn2 'and ,i must not let myself think a moment how dear it might have been to have you more my own4 ,if you feel really1 truly happy1 if you can enter on this life without any misgivings----' ',i can1' said ,mary firmly4 ,at this instant1 very strangely1 the string which confined a wreath of seashells around her glass1 having been long undermined by moths1 suddenly broke and fell down1 scattering the shells upon the floor4 ,illustration3 ,,keepsake ,,quilt ,the sunbonnet lassies suggest an outing or a call from playmates on the morrow4 ,these lassies may be dressed in bits of the gowns of the little maid1 and the quilt thus become a keepsake quilt ,both women started1 for the string of shells had been placed there by ,james2 and though neither was superstitious1 this was one of those odd coincidences that make hearts throb4 ',dear boy6' said ,mary1 gathering the shells up tenderly2 'wherever he is1 ,i shall never cease to love him4 ,it makes me feel sad to see this come down2 but it is only an accident2 nothing of him will ever fall out of my heart4' ,mrs4 ,marvyn clasped ,mary closer to her1 with tears in her eyes4 ',i'll tell you what1 ,mary1 it must have been the moths did that1' said ,miss ,prissy1 who had been standing1 unobserved1 at the door for a moment back2 'moths will eat away strings just so4 ,last week ,miss ,vernon's great family picture fell down because the moths eat through the cord2 people ought to use twine or cotton string always4 ,but ,i came to tell you that supper is all set1 and the doctor out of his study1 and all the people are wondering where you are4' ,mary and ,mrs4 ,marvyn gave a hasty glance at themselves in the glass1 to be assured of their good keeping1 and went into the great kitchen1 where a long table stood exhibiting all that plentitude of provision which the immortal description of ,washington ,irving has saved us the trouble of recapitulating in detail4 ,the husbands1 brothers1 and lovers had come in1 and the scene was redolent of gayety4 ,when ,mary made her appearance1 there was a moment's pause1 till she was conducted to the side of the doctor2 when1 raising his hand1 he invoked a grace upon the loaded board4 ,unrestrained gayeties followed4 ,groups of young men and maidens chatted together1 and all the gallantries of the times were enacted4 ,serious matrons commented on the cake1 and told each other high and particular secrets in the culinary art which they drew from remote family archives4 ,one might have learned in that instructive assembly how best to keep moths out of blankets1 how to make fritters of ,indian corn undistinguishable from oysters1 how to bring up babies by hand1 how to mend a cracked teapot1 how to take out grease from a brocade1 how to reconcile absolute decrees with free will1 how to make five yards of cloth answer the purpose of six1 and how to put down the ,democratic party4 ,miss ,prissy was in her glory2 every bow of her best cap was alive with excitement1 and she presented to the eyes of the astonished ,newport gentry an animated receipt book4 ,some of the information she communicated1 indeed1 was so valuable and important that she could not trust the air with it1 but whispered the most important portions in a confidential tone4 ,among the crowd1 ,cerinthy ,ann's theological admirer was observed in deeply reflective attitude2 and that high-spirited young lady added further to his convictions of the total depravity of the species by vexing and discomposing him in those thousand ways in which a lively1 ill-conditioned young woman will put to rout a serious1 well-disposed young man1 comforting herself with the reflection that by and by she would repent of all her sins in a lump together4 ,vain1 transitory splendours6 ,even this evening1 so glorious1 so heart cheering1 so fruitful in instruction and amusement1 could not last forever4 ,gradually the company broke up2 the matrons mounted soberly on horseback behind their spouses1 and ,cerinthy consoled her clerical friend by giving him an opportunity to read her a lecture on the way home1 if he found the courage to do so4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,marvyn and ,candace wound their way soberly homeward2 the doctor returned to his study for nightly devotions2 and before long sleep settled down on the brown cottage4 ',i'll tell you what1 ,cato1' said ,candace1 before composing herself to sleep1 ',i can't feel it in my bones dat dis yer weddin's gwine to come off yit4' ,,list ,,of ,,quilt ,,names ,,arranged ,,alphabetically ,air ,castle ,alabama ,beauty ,album ,all ,tangled ,up ,alpine ,rose ,american ,log ,patch ,apple ,hexagon ,arabic ,lattice ,arkansas ,traveller ,art ,square ,ashland ,rose ,aunt ,eliza's ,star ,point ,aunt ,sukey's ,patch ,autograph ,quilt ,bachelor's ,puzzle ,barrister's ,blocks ,base ,ball ,basket of ,lilies ,basket ,quilt ,bat's ,wing ,bear's ,foot ,bear's ,paws ,bedtime ,beggar's ,blocks ,big ,dipper ,bird's ,nest ,blackford's ,beauty ,blazing ,star ,blind ,man's ,fancy ,block ,album ,bluebird ,boston ,puzzle ,bounding ,betty ,bouquet ,box ,blocks ,boxed ,i's ,boy's ,nonsense ,brick ,pile ,brickwork ,quilt ,broken ,dish ,brown-tailed ,moth ,brunswick ,star ,bunnies ,bunnies and ,baskets ,butterflies ,cactus ,blossom ,cake ,stand ,california ,oak ,leaf ,california ,rose ,california ,star ,capital ,i ,carolina ,lily ,carpenter's ,rule ,carpenter's ,square ,cats and ,mice ,centennial ,charm ,charter ,oak ,cherry ,basket ,chicago ,star ,children's ,delight ,chimney ,swallows ,christmas ,tree ,chrysanthemums ,churn ,dash ,circle ,within ,circle ,circuit ,rider ,cleveland ,lilies ,cluster of ,stars ,coarse ,woven ,patch ,cockscomb ,cog ,wheel ,columbian ,puzzle ,columbia ,star ,combination ,star ,compass ,complex ,rose ,confederate ,rose ,continental ,corn and ,beans ,cottage ,tulip ,country ,farm ,coxey's ,camp ,crazy ,ann ,crazy ,quilt ,crib ,quilt ,cross1 ,the ,cross and ,crown ,crosses and ,losses ,crosses and ,stars ,crossed ,canoes ,cross ,roads to ,texas ,cross ,within ,cross ,crow's ,foot ,cube ,lattice ,cube ,work ,cypress ,leaf ,daffodils and ,butterflies ,daisies ,democrat ,rose ,devil's ,claws ,devil's ,puzzle ,diagonal ,log ,chain ,diamond1 ,the ,diamond ,cube ,diamond ,design ,diamonds ,diamond ,star ,disk1 ,the ,dogwood ,domino ,domino and ,square ,double ,irish ,chain ,double ,peony ,double ,squares ,double ,wrench ,double ,x1 ,no4 #a ,double ,x1 ,no4 #b ,double ,x1 ,no4 #c ,double ,x1 ,no4 #d ,double ,z ,dove in the ,window ,dutchman's ,puzzle ,dutch ,rose ,drunkard's ,patchwork ,drunkard's ,path ,ducks and ,ducklings ,ecclesiastical ,economy ,eight ,hands ,around ,eight-point ,design ,eight-pointed ,star ,enigma ,evening ,star ,everybody's ,favourite ,fan ,fan and ,rainbow ,fan ,patch ,fanny's ,fan ,fantastic ,patch ,feather ,star ,ferris ,wheel ,field ,daisies ,five-pointed ,star ,five ,stripes ,fleur-de-,lis ,flower ,basket ,flower ,pot ,flutter ,wheel ,flying ,bat ,flying ,star ,fool's ,puzzle ,fool's ,square ,forbidden ,fruit ,tree ,forest ,pattern ,four ,e's ,four ,frogs ,quilt ,four ,little ,birds ,four ,points ,four ,stars ,patch ,four ,x ,star ,french ,basket ,friendship ,quilt ,fruit ,basket ,garden of ,eden ,garfield's ,monument ,gentleman's ,fancy ,georgetown ,circle ,girl's ,joy ,globe1 ,the ,golden ,gates ,goose in the ,pond ,goose ,tracks ,gourd ,vine ,grandmother's ,choice ,grandmother's ,dream ,grandmother's ,own ,grape ,basket ,grapes and ,vines ,grecian ,design ,greek ,cross ,greek ,square ,hairpin ,catcher ,hand1 ,the ,hands ,all ,around ,handy ,andy ,harrison ,rose ,harvest ,rose ,hearts and ,gizzards ,hen and ,chickens ,hexagonal ,hickory ,leaf ,hobson's ,kiss ,home ,treasure ,honeycomb ,honeycomb ,patch ,hour ,glass ,house ,that ,jack ,built ,ice ,cream ,bowl ,imperial ,tea ,indiana ,wreath ,indian ,hatchet ,indian ,plumes ,interlaced ,blocks ,iris ,irish ,puzzle ,jack's ,house ,jacob's ,ladder ,job's ,tears ,johnny ,around the ,corner ,joining ,star ,jonquils ,joseph's ,coat ,joseph's ,necktie ,kansas ,troubles ,king's ,crown ,king's ,crows ,ladies' ,beautiful ,star ,ladies' ,delight ,ladies' ,wreath ,lady ,fingers ,lady of the ,lake ,leap ,frog ,letter ,h ,letter ,x ,lily of the ,valley ,lily ,quilt ,pattern ,lincoln's ,platform ,linton ,little ,beech ,tree ,little ,red ,house1 ,the ,live ,oak ,tree ,lobster1 ,the ,log ,cabin ,log ,patch ,london ,roads ,love ,rose ,lover's ,links ,magic ,circle ,maltese ,cross1 ,no4 #a ,maltese ,cross1 ,no4 #b ,maple ,leaf ,mary's ,garden ,may ,berry ,leaf ,mayflower1 ,the ,memory ,blocks ,memory ,circle ,mexican ,rose ,missouri ,beauty ,mollie's ,choice ,moon and ,stars ,morning ,glory ,morning ,glory ,wreath ,morning ,star ,mosaic 7,more than #be7 ,mother's ,fancy ,mrs4 ,cleveland's ,choice ,mrs4 ,morgan's ,choice ,needle ,book ,necktie ,new ,album ,new ,four ,patch ,nine ,patch ,new ,star ,no ,name ,quilt ,none ,such ,novel ,star ,oak ,leaf and ,acorns ,oak ,leaf and ,tulip ,ocean ,waves ,octagon ,octagon ,file ,odd ,fellows' ,chain ,odd ,patchwork ,odd ,pattern1 ,an ,odds and ,ends ,odd ,star ,ohio ,beauty ,oklahoma ,boomer ,old ,homestead1 ,the ,old ,maid's ,puzzle ,old ,patchwork1 ,an ,old ,scrap ,patchwork ,old ,bachelor's ,puzzle ,old ,tippecanoe ,olive ,branch ,orange ,peel ,paving ,blocks ,pansies and ,butterflies ,peacocks and ,flowers ,peony ,block ,persian ,palm ,lily ,philadelphia ,beauty ,philadelphia ,pavement ,philippines1 ,the ,pickle ,dish ,pilgrim's ,pride ,pincushion ,pincushion and ,burr ,pineapple ,patterns 7#c in number7 ,pine ,tree ,pinwheel ,square ,poinsettia ,poppy ,prairie ,rose ,premium ,star ,president's ,quilt ,princess ,feather ,priscilla1 ,the ,pullman ,puzzle ,puss-in-the-,corner ,puzzle ,file ,pyrotechnics ,quartette1 ,the ,radical ,rose ,railroad1 ,the ,rainbow ,red ,cross ,ribbon ,squares ,ribbon ,star ,right and ,left ,rising ,sun ,road to ,california ,robbing ,peter to ,pay ,paul ,rockingham's ,beauty ,rocky ,glen ,rocky ,road to ,california ,rocky ,road to ,kansas ,rolling ,pinwheel ,rolling ,star ,rolling ,stone ,roman ,cross ,roman ,stripe ,rose ,rose ,album ,rose and ,feather ,rosebud and ,leaves ,rose of ,dixie ,rose of ,le,moine ,rose of ,st4 ,louis ,rose of the ,carolinas ,rose of ,sharon ,rose ,sprig ,royal1 ,the ,royal ,japanese ,vase ,sarah's ,favourite ,sashed ,album ,sashed ,star ,sawtooth ,patchwork ,scissor's ,chain ,seven ,stars ,shelf ,chain ,shield ,shoo ,fly ,shooting ,star ,simple ,design ,single ,sunflowers ,sister's ,choice ,snail's ,trail1 ,the ,snowball ,snowflake ,solomon's ,temple ,solomon's ,crown ,spider's ,den ,spider's ,web ,spools ,square and a ,half ,square and ,swallow ,square and ,triangle ,square ,log ,cabin ,squares and ,stars ,squares and ,stripes ,star1 ,a ,star and ,chains ,star and ,cross ,star and ,cubes ,star and ,squares ,star of ,bethlehem ,star of ,many ,points ,star of ,texas ,star of the ,east ,star ,lane ,star ,puzzle ,star-,spangled ,banner ,stars upon ,stars ,state ,house ,steps ,steps to the ,altar ,st4 ,louis ,star ,stone ,wall ,storm at ,sea ,strawberry ,stripe ,squares ,sugar ,loaf ,sunbonnet ,lassies ,sunburst ,sunflowers ,sunshine ,swarm of ,bees ,sweet ,gum ,leaf ,swinging ,corners ,swing in the ,centre ,tangled ,garter ,tassel ,plant ,tea ,leaf ,temperance ,tree ,texas ,flower ,texas ,tears ,three-flowered ,sunflower ,tick-,tack-,toe ,tile ,patchwork ,toad in the ,puddle ,tree of ,paradise ,triangular ,triangle ,triangle ,puzzle ,true ,lover's ,knot ,tufted ,cherry ,tulip ,blocks ,tulip in ,vase ,tulip ,lady ,finger ,tulip ,tree ,leaves ,tumbler1 ,the ,twin ,sisters ,twinkling ,star ,twist and ,turn ,twist ,patchwork ,two ,doves1 ,the ,union ,union ,calico ,quilt ,union ,star ,unknown ,star ,valentine ,quilt ,variegated ,diamonds ,variegated ,hexagons ,venetian ,design ,vestibule ,vice-,president's ,quilt ,village ,church ,virginia ,gentleman ,washington's ,puzzle ,washington's ,plumes ,washington's ,sidewalk ,watered ,ribbon ,way of the ,world ,wedding ,knot ,western ,star ,w4 ,c4 ,t4 ,union ,wheel1 ,the ,wheel and ,star ,wheel of ,fortune ,whig ,pattern ,whig ,rose ,white ,day ,lily ,widower's ,choice ,wild ,goose ,chase ,wild ,rose ,wind-blown ,tulips ,winding ,walk ,wind ,mill ,wonder of the ,world ,workbox ,world's ,fair1 ,the ,world's ,fair ,blocks ,world's ,fair ,puzzle ,wreath of ,roses ,x quisite1 ,the ,yankee ,puzzle ,,list ,,of ,,references ,,the ,,carolina ,,mountains4 ,margaret ,m4 ,morley4 ,,the ,,minister',s ,,wooing4 ,harriet ,beecher ,stowe4 ,,aunt ,,jane ,,in ,,kentucky4 ,hall4 ,,colonial ,,days ,,and ,,ways4 ,helen ,evesten ,smith4 ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,city ,,of ,,new ,,york4 ,charles ,burr ,todd1 #ahhh4 ,,the ,,social ,,history ,,of ,,flatbush4 ,gertrude ,lefferts ,vanderbilt1 #ahhb4 ,,social ,,history ,,of ,,ancient ,,ireland4 ,p4 ,w4 ,joyce4 ,,chats ,,on ,,old ,,lace ,,and ,,needlework4 ,mrs4 ,lowes4 ,,the ,,crusades4 ,archer and ,kingsford4 ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,antique4 ,walter ,a4 ,dyer4 ,,art ,,in ,,needlework4 ,lewis ,f4 ,day and ,mary ,buckle4 ,,home ,,life ,,in ,,colonial ,,days4 ,alice ,morse ,earle4 ,,customs ,,and ,,fashions ,,in ,,old ,,new ,,england4 ,alice ,morse ,earle4 ,,pennsylvania ,,dutch4 ,mrs4 ,p4 ,e4 ,gibbon4 ,,on ,,education4 ,john ,locke1 #afcb-agjd4 ,,old ,,embroideries4 ,alan ,s4 ,cole in ,home ,needlework ,magazine1 #aijj-aija4 ,,the ,,annals ,,of ,,tennessee4 ,j4 ,g4 ,m4 ,ramsey1 ,a4 ,m41 ,m4 ,d41 #ahec4 ,,woman',s ,,handiwork ,,in ,,modern ,,homes4 ,constance ,cary ,harrison1 #ahha4 ,,peasant ,,art ,,in ,,sweden1 ,,ireland1 ,,and ,,lapland4 ,edited by ,charles ,holmes4 ,,first ,,steps ,,in ,,collecting4 ,grace ,m4 ,vallois4 ,,needlework4 ,elizabeth ,glaister4 ,,embroidery ,,and ,,tapestry ,,weaving4 ,mrs4 ,a4 ,h4 ,christie4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,needlework4 ,edited by ,countess ,wilton4 ,,english ,,secular ,,embroidery4 ,m4 ,jourdain4 ,,the ,,ancient ,,egyptians4 ,sir4 ,j4 ,gardner ,wilkinson1 ,d4 ,c4 ,l41 ,f4 ,r4 ,s4 ,,de ,,bello ,,judaico4 ,flavius ,josephus4 ,,turkey ,,of ,,the ,,ottoman4 ,l4 ,m4 ,garnett4 ,,histoire ,,de ,l',,art ,,dans ,l',,antiquit4 ,perrot and ,chipiex4 ,,arts ,,and ,,crafts ,,in ,,the ,,middle ,,ages4 ,julia de ,wolf ,addison4 ,,saco ,,valley ,,families4 ,ridlon4 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,note ,minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note4 ,this book contains some archaic spelling and dialect2 all instances have been kept as printed4 ,hyphenation has been made consistent as follows3 ,page vii--,bed-time amended to ,bedtime ,page #abe--,puss in the ,corner amended to ,puss-in-the-,corner ,page #add--oldtime amended to old-time ,the following amendments have been made3 ,page #e--;,gerdin amended to ,gardner--,sir ,j4 ,gardner ,wilkinson1 in his history 444 ,page #g--;,judaics amended to ,judaico--,in ,de ,bello ,judaico1 by ,flavius ,josephus1 444 ,page #h--;,historic amended to ,histoire--444 in their ,histoire de l',art dans l',antiquit1 publish 444 ,page #ah--,phoenecians amended to ,phoenicians--444 in ,biblical times by the ,hebrews and ,phoenicians4 ,page #ie--;,eor amended to ,for--,for those who enjoy making pieced quilts 444 ,page #aca--;amarylis amended to amaryllis--444 and even scarlet amaryllis pale beside the glowing colours 444 ,page #adc--;excell amended to excel--444 the desire to excel in the art of quilt making4 ,page #agd--repeated instance of ,st4 ,louis ,star deleted4 ,page #agg--,,mountaina amended to ,,mountains--,,the ,,carolina ,,mountains4 ,page #agg--,m4 amended to ,f41 and ,,and amended to ,,in--,,art ,,in ,,needlework4 ,lewis ,f4 ,day and ,mary ,buckle4 ,page #agg--;,alam amended to ,alan--,alan ,s4 ,cole in 444 ,page #agh--,s4 ,c4 ,l4 amended to ,d4 ,c4 ,l4--,sir ,j4 ,gardner ,wilkinson1 ,d4 ,c4 ,l41 ,f4 ,r4 ,s4 ,page #agh--;,,judaics amended to ,,judaico--,,de ,,bello ,,judaico4 ,page #agh--;,,dams amended to ,,dans--,,histoire ,,de ,l',,art ,,dans ,l',,antiquit4 ,the following amendments have been made in the list of quilt names at the end of the text1 for consistency with the main text3 ,aunt ,eliza's ,star ,quilt amended to ,aunt ,eliza's ,star ,point 7p4 #afi7 ,baseball amended to ,base ,ball 7p4 #afi7 ,blindman's ,fancy amended to ,blind ,man's ,fancy 7p4 #afi7 ,cogwheels amended to ,cog ,wheel 7p4 #agj7 ,double ,square amended to ,double ,squares 7p4 #aga7 ,duck and ,ducklings amended to ,ducks and ,ducklings 7p4 #aga7 ,fleur de ,lis amended to ,fleur-de-,lis 7p4 #aga7 ,french ,baskets amended to ,french ,basket 7p4 #aga7 ,hair ,pin ,catcher amended to ,hairpin ,catcher 7p4 #agb7 ,indian ,plums amended to ,indian ,plumes 7p4 #agb7 ,needlebook amended to ,needle ,book 7p4 #agc7 ,road to ,oklahoma amended to ,road to ,california 7p4 #agd7 ,washington ,puzzle amended to ,washington's ,puzzle 7p4 #agf7 ,windmill amended to ,wind ,mill 7p4 #agf7 ,xquisite1 ,the amended to ,x quisite1 ,the 7p4 #agf7 ,please note that not all of the quilt patterns mentioned in the main text are included in the list4 ,the single oe ligature 7in the word ,phoenicians7 has not been retained in this version4 ,illustrations have been moved slightly where necessary so that they were not in the middle of a paragraph4 ,the frontispiece illustration has been moved to follow the title page4