,aborig9al ,am]ican ,weav+              
---- ,,by ----                          
,,miss ,,m>y ,,lois ,,kissell1          
,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1    
,,new ,,york ,,city4   ,a ,pap] ,read   
be=e ,! ,national ,association ( ,cotton
 ,manufactur]s   at _! ,eighty-eigh?    
,meet+ at ,me*anics ,fair ,build+1      
,bo/on1                        ,mass41  
,april #bg?1 #aiaj4                     
,illu/ration                            
,,aborig9al ,,am]ican ,,weav+4   ,,miss 
,,m>y ,,lois ,,kissell1 ,am]ican ,museum
 ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york         
,city4   ,wond]ful z is ! developm5t (  
mod]n ma*9]y = ! manufacture ( ,am]ican 
textiles--ma*9]y :i* seems almo/ human 9
 ! way x conv]ts raw mat]ials into f9i%$
 clo?2 j z surpris+ are ! mo/ primitive 
looms ( ! ,am]ican aborig9es1 :o )\t !  
aid ( ma*9]y make int]e/+ weav+s ) only 
a b> ^u :i* to susp5d ! w>p ?reads :ile 
! human h& completes all ! processes (  
manufacture4 ,mod]n man's inv5tive g5ius
 9 ! textile art has be5 exp5d$ ^u      

p]fect+ ! ma*9]y1 :ile primitive man's  
+5uity has result$ 9 mak+ a beautiful   
weav+ ) v simple means4  ,no d\bt c\ld  
we "k ! hi/ory ( primitive loom "w 9    
,am]ica prior to ! com+ ( ! :ite man1 we
 w\ld f9d an ext5d$ di/ribution ( weav+1
 b all e>ly textiles h be5 lo/ ow+ to ! 
de/ructability ( ! mat]ial & ! lack (   
climatic & o!r conditions suitable = _! 
pres]vation--conditions su* z are pres5t
 9 ! hot des]t l&s ( ! ,s\?we/ & ! coa/ 
region ( ,p]u4 ,h[ev]1 s _m impressions 
( weav+s h be5 f\nd on e>ly pott]y z to 
assure u t beautiful "w ( ?is k9d 0 made
 9 ea/]n1 middle & s\!rn ,unit$ ,/ates4 
,9 we/]n ,briti% ,columbia at ! pres5t  
"t !re are tribes c>ry+ on c]ta9 =ms (  
weav+ :i* %[ f\r int]e/+ types4         
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #a4--,,kwakiutl  
,,squaw1 ,,weav+4  ,! simple/ type is ! 
c$> b>k mat wov5 ( flat /rips 9         
horizontal & v]tical l9es4 ,9 beg9n+    
wide /rips ( ! inn] b>k are hung f _!   
c5tre ov] a crossb> ( wood :i* is       
support$ at ei!r end by an upright beam4

 ,! halves ( ! /rips hang+ 9 front are  
!n split into /r&s ( ! desir$ wid? & a  
l9e ( f9e tw9+ wov5 across to hold !m   
securely4 ,! *eck] weav+ ( ! mat is n[  
begun at ! left edge by d\bl+ ! weft    
elem5t ov] ! la/ w>p & !n weav+ ) !     
d\bl$ elem5t ov] & "u "o w>p until ! "r 
edge is rea*$ :]e x is turn$ back &     
slipp$ "u an in* ( ! weav+ j complet$4  
,figure #a %[s a squaw at "w on su* a   
mat1 & :5 %e has complet$ ?is half ( !  
mat ! second half w be und]tak54 ,%e    
f9i%es ! edge by turn+ up ! w>p ends    
bel[ ! la/ l9e ( weft & b9ds !m ) a r[ (
 tw9+ j above ?is la/ weft4             
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #b4--,,mat ,,)   
,,*eck$ ,,design4  ,9 _! indu/ries1     
primitive p always utilize ! mat]ials   
f\nd 9 _! environm5t1 because no means  
is af=d$ !m1 z 9 mod]n life1 = !        
transportation ( mat]ials f a di/ance4  
,briti% ,columbia is ri* 9 c$> trees1 s 
x is n /range t mat]ial f ?is tree ent]s
 s l>gely into ! weav+ ( ?is region4    
,c$> b>k l5ds itself v delightfully to !

 te*nic ( ^! mats1 & its gold5 br[n     
*eck$ surface is at times cross$ by     
black l9es or brok5 by a gr\p ( black   
*ecks 9 simple designs4 ,^! v>y greatly1
 b only "o example 7,figure #b7 c be %[n
 "h4      ,illu/ration3 ,,figure        
#c4--,,primitive ,,loom ,,) ,,plait$    
,,mat4  ,! second type ( weav+1 also (  
c$> b>k1 is begun l ! la/ mat1 b !      
elem5ts are s plac$ z to cross ! surface
 diagonally--alt]nate /rips pass+       
diagonally d[nw>d to ! "r & left z 9    
,figure #c4 ,^! /rips are n wov5 b      
plait$ ov] & "u ea* o!r )\t ! addition (
 a weft elem5t z 9 weav+4 ,:5 ! side    
edge is rea*$ ! /rips turn ov] at "r    
angles & cont9ue to plait 9 ! *ang$     
oblique direction4 ,! l[] edges are     
f9i%$ by b5d+ ! elem5ts at "r angles &  
plait+ !m obliquely back = an in* into !
 complet$ surface4 ,*eck$ weav+ & plait+
 is employ$ 9 a v>iety ( ways1 = aside f
 matt+s x ent] into ! con/ruction (     
baskets1 p\*es1 bags1 sails1 ra9coats1  
baby's hoods1 & a numb] ( o!r articles4 

,illu/ration3 ,,figure #d4--;,,ano!r    
,,type ,,( ,,loom4  ,c$> b>k :i* has be5
 s(t5$ & %r$d$ plays an important "p 9 !
 clo?+ ( ?is region1 especially 9       
blankets l t 9 ,figure #d4 ,! blanket   
"h1 h[ev]1 is n ( c$> b>k b ( goat's    
hair = a numb] ( mat]ials are made use (
 by ?is te*nic4 ,9 ?is weav+ ! w>ps are 
n ?r[n ov] ! crossbeam z 9 ! o!r loom b 
are support$ on a cord :i* itself is    
b\nd to ! beam by ano!r cord4 ,nei!r are
 ! w>ps unit$ by a /rip ( weft runn+ ov]
 & "u b by a two /r& weft elem5t :i*    
tw9es ab\t ! w>ps4 ,to my k ?is =m (    
weav+ has nev] be5 reproduc$ by ma*9]y z
 no ma*9e c make ?reads tw9e4 ,!        
blankets ( c$> b>k are undecorat$1 b ^? 
( wool frequ5tly h /r&s ( ano!r color   
pass$ across ! surface & caught into !  
weav+ f "t to "t1 produc+ simil> designs
 to t 9 ,figure #d4 ,z obs]v$ 9 !       
illu/ration ! l9es ( weft are n driv5   
home b are set "s di/ance ap>t1 ! space 
betwe5 v>y+ on diff]5t g>m5ts4 ,at ! l[]
 edge1 h[ev]1 !re is frequ5tly f\nd a b&

 ( closely wov5 tw9+1 at o!r times a b& 
( fur1 or a long fr+e may complete !    
edge4      ,illu/ration3 ,,figure       
#e4--,,unf9i%$ ,,*ilkat ,,blanket4  ,!  
mo/ beautiful weav+ ( we/]n ,briti%     
,columbia is ! ,*ilkat blanket1 ,figures
 #e & #f1 a weav+ :i* is unique 9 te*nic
 & design1 bo? 9 primitive & mod]n      
textile art4 ,x is a c]emonial g>m5t & !
 gorge\s designs 9 :ite1 blue1 yell[ &  
black are ( totemic significance &      
relate to ! c]emonial life ( ! ,indian4 
,9 e>lie/ times ?is blanket 0           
undecorat$1 a pla9 field ( :ite2 !n     
color 0 introduc$ on ! :ite field 9     
/ripes ( h]r+-bone patt]n typify+ rav5's
 tail1 because simil> to ! vanes ( !    
tail fea!rs2 & lat] ! elaborate         
geometric designs ( pres5t day blankets 
develop$4 ,^! designs are fir/ pa9t$ ^u 
a patt]n bo>d ! size & %ape ( ^? :i* are
 to appe> ^u ! blanket1 & x is f ?is    
patt]n bo>d t ! squaw weaves h] patt]n4 
,b al?\gh ! woman 7,figure #g7 does     
weave ! blanket1 ! man also has 8 "p 9 !

 process z he furni%es ! loom1 ! patt]n 
bo>d & ! sk9 ( ! goat4 ,! squaw prep>es 
all ! mat]ials & collects ! b>k1 = ! w>p
 is ( %r$d$ two-ply c$> b>k wrapp$ ) a  
?read ( wool1 :ile ! weft is entirely ( 
! s(t wool ( ! m\nta9 goat4             
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #f4--,,old       
,,*ilkat ,,blanket4      ,illu/ration3  
,,figure #g4--,,squaw ,,weav+ ,,*ilkat  
,,blanket4  ,lieut4 ,g4 ,t4 ,,emmons    
tells u t ! goat ( ?is region ab\nds 9 !
 rugg$ coa/ m\nta9s f ,puget ,s\nd to   
,cook's ,inlet1 b is unkn[n on ! outly+ 
isl&s4 ,its pref]5ce is ! glacial belt &
 sn[-fields ( ! mo/ brok5 c\ntry & !    
t]rac$ sides ( ! precipit\s cliffs4 ,x  
is greg>i\s 9 habit be+ f\nd 9 b&s ( f  
t5 to fifty or m4 ,f ,septemb] until    
,april ! sk9 is 9 prime condition ) an  
abundance ( s(t wool "u a heavy cov]+ ( 
long co>se hair2 b ! hunt+ is only done 
9 ! autumn4 ,to prep>e = ! pluck+1 ! sk9
 mu/ be kept wet on ! und]side s x is   
moi/5$ & roll$ up = sev]al days1 ?us    
loos5+ ! hold ( ! fleece4 ,) ?umb & f+]s

 ( bo? h&s ! squaw1 seat$ ^u ! gr\nd1   
pu%es ! fleece f h]1 procur+ by ?is     
process great pat*es ( wool & hair4 ,!n 
! hairs are pluck$ out & ?r[n away & !  
wool is ready to be spun4 ,dur+ ! sp9n+ 
! woman also sits ^u ! gr\nd ) legs     
out/ret*$1 ) ! crude wool by h] left    
side )9 easy rea*4 ,?is %e draws out )  
h] left h& & fe$s to h] "r1 9 ! am\nt   
necess>y to =m ! requir$ size ( ?read4  
,z x is receiv$ betwe5 ! palm ( ! "r h& 
& ! "r ?igh1 x is roll$ f ! body & falls
 to ! side 9 loose1 connect$ ?read4 ,?is
 s(t ?read is next spun betwe5 ! palm ( 
! h& & ! ?igh to =m a s+le tightly twi/$
 /r&2 & by ! same process two ( ^! /r&s 
are roll$ toge!r to =m ! weft ?read = ! 
blanket4 ,9 te*nic ! blanket is relat$  
to ! la/ "o describ$ = x is a tw9e      
weav+1 b a twill$ tw9e z ! two /r& weft 
encloses two w>ps at a move & ) ea*     
succe$+ l9e ( weft advances "o w>p giv+ 
! surface a twill$ effect4 ,x is int]e/+
 t ! small blocks ( design are wov5     
sep>ately some?+ z a tape/ry1 & lat] !  

blocks are sew$ toge!r ) a ?read ( s9ew 
f ! c>ib\ or :ale4      ,illu/ration3   
,,figure #h4--;,a ,,?ird ,,type ,,(     
,,loom4      ,illu/ration3 ,,figure     
#i4--,,navajo ,,loom4  ,! weav+ f ?is   
region :i* mo/ ne>ly approa*es ma*9e "w 
9 process ( mak+ is ! dog-hair & goat's 
wool blanket4 ,x is wov5 ^u a loom ( two
 revolv+ cyl9drical beams1 support$ by  
upright po/s at ei!r end 7,figure #h74  
,! end ( ! w>p ?read is atta*$ to a /ay+
 cord /ret*$ f po/ to po/ ab\t midway   
betwe5 ! revolv+ beams4 ,! w>p !n       
encircles ! loom1 cat*es "u ! /ay+ cord1
 !n turns & travels back to its />t+    
po9t1 !re to cat* "u ! /ay+ cord &      
repeat ! op]ation4 ,! weft moves across 
! w>ps z 9 twill$ clo?1 ov] two1 "u two1
 ) an advance ( "o w>p at ea* l9e (     
weft4 ,dog's hair1 duck d[n & goat's    
wool are ! mat]ials us$1 especially !   
latt]4 ,^! mat]ials are spun 9 two-ply  
?read twi/$ p>tly ^u ! ?igh ( ! weav] & 
f9i%$ on a sp9dle4  ,leav+ ?is weav+    
area 9 we/]n ,briti% ,columbia we pass  

to ! o!r locality ( note 9 ,nor? ,am]ica
 :]e primitive weav+ is practis$1--9    
s\?we/]n ,unit$ ,/ates & nor!rn ,mexico4
 ,"h ! loom "w is at a m advanc$ /age ( 
developm5t ?an t ( ! nor!rn area1 !     
weav]s mak+ use ( a loom frame1 %$s1    
healds1 batt5 & an improvis$ %uttle4 ,! 
,navajo ,indians are ! mo/ skill$ weav]s
 nor? ( ,mexico & a description ( _!    
weav+ is fairly typical ( ?is area4 ,z !
 w>ps are ( s(t pliable ?reads !y mu/ ( 
necessity be /ret*$ betwe5 two beams4   
,^! are susp5d$ v]tically if ! weav+ is 
to be ( any great size1 ! di/ance betwe5
 !m be+ t ( ! propos$ l5g? ( ! blanket  
7,figure #i74 ,! w>p ?reads are n /ret*$
 across ! beams ) an oval movem5t b are 
lac$ ov] !m1 =m+ two %$s1 ! upp] ( :i*  
is held intact by means ( ! %$-rod1 & ! 
l[] by a set ( healds pass+ ov] a       
heald-rod4 ,a wood5 =k s]ves z a re$ & a
 sl5d] twig z a %uttle4 ,^u ?is twig is 
loosely w\nd f end to end ! weft ?read4 
,! %uttle at "o move crosses less ?an   
half ( ! w>ps z ! batt5--a flat /ick (  

h>d oak--is too %ort to op5 m ?an t l5g?
 ( ! %$ = ! passage ( ! %uttle4         
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #aj4--;,,hopi    
,,blanket4      ,illu/ration3 ,,figure  
#aa4--;,,hopi ,,weav+4                  
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #ab4--,,mexican  
,,s]ape4  ,9 ,figure #aj only a portion 
( a blanket f ! ,hopi ,indians is %[n1 t
 ! delicate design may be bett] se54 ,a 
numb] ( ,hopi patt]ns h ?is f9e :ite l9e
 ( trac]y ^u ! d>k backgr\nd & x is ?is 
play ( ! f9e l9e patt]n on ! fabric :i* 
is "o ( ! *ief beauties ( ,hopi weav+s4 
,! sp>kle ( :ite is ev5 m brilliant 9   
,figure #aa1 ano!r small] weav+ f ! same
 p4 ,!y make con/ant use ( ! diagonal or
 twill$ te*nic1 a weave :i* requires t !
 w>ps be divid$ into f\r %$s1 ! upp]    
suppli$ ) a %$ /ick1 ! ?ree l[] )       
healds4 ,! %$s are %ift$ 9 a v>iety (   
ord]s = ! con/ruction ( diff]5t patt]ns4
      ,illu/ration3 ,,figure            
#ac4--;,,hui*ol ,,weav+4  ,"o ( ! mo/   
beautiful weav+s ! writ] has ev] se5 f !
 s\?we/ is t pictur$ 9 ,figure #ab1 :i* 

is1 h[ev]1 only a small c5t] portion ( !
 beautiful sirape f ,mexico4 ,! patt]n 9
 two colors ( indigo ^u a tan color$    
gr\nd is especially effective1 :ile !   
t9y blue dots spr9kl$ ^u ! tan surface &
 ! tan dots ov] ! blue design add a     
subtle & delightful *>m n frequ5tly met 
)4  ,! la/ two examples1 ,figures #ac & 
#ad1 are also f ,mexico1 ! fir/ a bit ( 
weav+ ) animal designs f ! ,hui*ol      
,indians1 & ! la/ a belt loom f ! same  
p4 ,9 mak+ belts & o!r n>r[ fabrics !   
loom is ei!r horizontal or oblique 9    
position1 /ret*+ f "s po/ or tree to !  
weav] & !re atta*$ to a loop :i* passes 
ei!r ab\t ! wai/ or "u ! ?ighs & r5d]$  
t5se by ! weight ( ! weav]4 ,^! belts   
may be wov5 ) two or f\r %$s accord+ to 
! /yle ( weav+ desir$1 :ile ano!r me?od 
( patt]n "w on two %$ weav+ has !       
addition ( a r\nd /ick run into ! w>ps s
 z to raise c]ta9 ?reads :ile ! weft    
passes two or ?ree times und]nea?       
produc+ a v>iety ( damask weav+4  ,!    
/ret* betwe5 ^! simple me?ods (         

primitive peoples & ma*9e me?ods ( mod]n
 life is great inde$ & we w long cont9ue
 to wond] t ) su* crude devices ^! p    
c\ld produce results :i* comp>e         
favorably ) our mod]n weav+s4           
,illu/ration3 ,,figure #ad4--,,mexican  
,,belt ,,loom4