file :i* includes ! orig9al illu/rations4 ,see #bdjgg-;h4htm or #bdjgg-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#b_/d_ /j_/g_/bdjgg_/bdjgg-;h_/#bdjgg-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#b_/d_ /j_/g_/bdjgg_/bdjgg-;h4zip7 ,transcrib]'s note3 ,text enclos$ by equal signs 0 9 bold face 9 ! orig9al 7bold74 ,additional notes w be f\nd at ! end ( ! book4 ,,textiles ,= ,comm]cial1 ,indu/rial1 & ,dome/ic ,arts ,s*ools2 ,also ,adapt$ to ,^? ,engag$ 9 ,:olesale & ,retail ,dry ,goods1 ,wool1 ,cotton1 & ,dressmak]'s ,trades by ,,william ,h4 ,,dooley ,pr9cipal ,l[ell ,indu/rial ,s*ool ,l[ell1 ,mass4 ,revis$ ,edition ,) ,exp]im5ts ,d4 ,c4 ,hea? ,company ,bo/on ,new ,york ,*icago ,copyright1 #aiaj1 #aiab1 & #aiad1 by ,d4 ,c4 ,hea? & ,company ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,plant ,,preface ,! au?or e/abli%$ & s9ce its inception has be5 9 *>ge ( ! fir/ indu/rial s*ool = boys & girls 9 ,massa*usetts4 ,at an e>ly date he recogniz$ ! ne$ ( special text-books to meet ! dem& ( "y p :o are att5d+ vocational s*ools4 ,!re are pl5ty ( books writt5 on textiles = te*nical s*ool /ud5ts & advanc$ work]s4 ,b ! au?or has fail$ to f9d a book expla9+ ! manufacture & te/+ ( textiles = comm]cial1 indu/rial1 dome/ic arts1 & cont9uation s*ools1 & = ^? :o h j ent]$ ! textile or alli$ trades4 ,?is book is writt5 to meet ?is educational ne$4 ,o!rs may f9d ! book ( int]e/1 p>ticul>ly ! *apt]s describ+ cotton1 wool51 wor/$1 & silk fabrics4 ,! au?or is "u obligations to ,mr4 ,frankl9 ,w4 ,hobbs1 treasur] ( ! ,arl+ton ,mills1 = p]mission to use illu/rations & in=mation f lit]ature publi%$ by ! ,arl+ton ,mills2 to ,mr4 ,s4 ,h4 ,dit*ett1 editor ( ,dry ,goods ,economi/1 = p]mission to use in=mation f 8 publication1 ,dry ,goods ,encyclop$ia2 to ! editor ( ! ,textile ,m]cury2 to ,frank ,p4 ,b5nett1 ( ! ,am]ican ,wool & ,cotton ,report]1 = p]mission to use in=mation f ,cotton ,fabrics ,gloss>y2 & to ! in/ructors ( ! ,lawr5ce ,indu/rial ,s*ool = valuable in=mation4 ,9 addition1 in=mation has be5 obta9$ f ! great body ( textile lit]ature1 :i* ! au?or desires to ackn[l$ge4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,i ,,fib]s ,,page ,animal ,fib]s--,wool1 ,silk1 ,mohair4 ,vegetable--,cotton1 ,flax1 ,jute1 ,hemp4 ,m9]al--,asbe/os1 ,t9sel1 ,metallic4 ,remanufactur$ ,mat]ial--,noils1 ,mungo1 ,%oddy1 ,extract1 & ,flocks4 ,artificial ,fib]s--,spun ,glass1 ,artificial ,silk1 ,slag ,wool4 ,/ructure ( ,wool4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,wool4 ,classification ( ,wool4 ,c>pet & ,knitt+ ,wools4 ,%eep ,%e>+4 ,v>iation 9 ,weight ( ,fleeces4 ,%ipp+ ! ,fleeces4 ,value ( ,wool ,bus9ess4 ,saxony & ,silesian ,wool1 ,au/ralian ,wool1 ,port ,philip ,wool1 ,sydney ,wool1 ,adelaide ,wool1 ,van ,wool f ,tasmania1 ,new ,zeal& ,wool1 ,cape ,wools1 ,wools f ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,russian ,wool1 ,great ,brita9 ,wools1 ,l9coln1 ,leice/]1 ,s\?d[n1 ,%rop%ire2 ,ca%m]e ,wools1 ,norfolkd[n & ,suffolkd[n ,wools1 ,*eviot ,wool1 ,wel% ,wools1 ,%etl& ,wools1 ,iri% ,wools1 ,mohair1 ,alpaca ,wool4 ,h[ ,wool is ,m>ket$ #a ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,wool ,,sort+ ,sort+4 ,class+ ,grades ( ,wool4 ,m]9o ,wool4 ,diff]5ce betwe5 ,lamb's & ,%eep's ,wool4 ,pull$ ,wool4 ,dela9e ,wool4 ,wool ,sort]4 ,wool ,wa%+1 ,wool ,dry+1 ,oil+4 ,burr+ & ,c>boniz+4 ,bur ,pick]1 ,bl5d+ #af ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,wool ,,sub/itutes ,,& ,,wa/e ,,products ,wool ,sub/itutes & ,wa/e ,remanufactur$--,noils1 ,%oddy1 & ,mungo4 ,me?ods ( ,produc+ ,%oddy & ,mungo--,du/+1 ,sort+1 ,seam+1 ,oil+1 ,gr9d+4 ,extract ,wool4 ,flocks #cb ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,wor/$ ,,y>n ,c>d+1 ,comb+4 ,wor/$ ,tops--,gill ,boxes4 ,diff]5t me?ods ( ,sp9n+--,brad=d or ,engli% ,sy/em1 ,fr5* ,sy/em4 ,/ructure ( ,wor/$ ,y>n4 ,uses ( ,wor/$ ,y>n4 ,c\nts ( ,wor/$ ,y>n #ci ,,*apt] ,v ,,wool5 ,,y>n ,op]ations 9 ,produc+ ,wool5 ,y>n--,wa%+1 ,c>d+1 ,sp9n+1 ,mule ,sp9n+4 ,c\nts ( ,wool5 ,y>n4 ,uses ( ,wool5 ,y>n #ej ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,weav+ ,prep>atory to ,weav+--,w>p4 ,weav+--,weav+ ,processes1 ,classes ( ,weave--,pla9 or ,homespun ,weave1 ,twill1 ,sat9 ,weaves1 ,figure ,weav+ 7,jacqu>d app>atus71 ,d\ble ,clo?1 ,pile ,weav+1 ,gauze ,weav+1 ,lappet ,weav+ #ec ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,dye+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ ,dye+4 ,wool ,dye+1 ,piece ,dy$1 ,cross ,dy$1 ,y>n ,dy$4 ,/yle--,design+1 ,f9i%+1 ,p]*+1 ,burl+1 ,m5d+1 ,full+1 ,crabb+1 ,t5t]+1 ,napp+1 ,press+4 ,!ories ( ,color+ 9 ,textile ,design4 ,v>i\s ,me?ods ( ,employ+ ,fancy ,%ades4 ,adult]ation #fe ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,wool5 ,,& ,,wor/$ ,,fabrics ,albatross1 ,alpaca1 ,cord$ ,alpaca1 ,angora1 ,a/rakhan1 ,b&anna1 ,beav] 7,fur ,beav]71 ,b$=d ,cord1 ,beige1 ,b9d+s1 ,bombaz9e1 ,bottany1 ,b\cle1 ,broadclo?1 ,bunt+1 ,cani*e1 ,ca%m]e1 ,ca%m]e ,d\ble1 ,cassim]e1 ,ca/or1 ,*allis1 ,*eviot 7,diagonal or ,*evron71 ,*9*illa1 ,*udah1 ,corduroy1 ,cte ,*eval1 ,c\pure1 ,cov]t1 ,dela9e1 ,doesk91 ,drap d't1 ,empress ,clo?1 p+l9e1 ,etam9e1 ,felt1 ,flannel1 ,dress ,flannel1 ,fr5* ,flannel1 ,%ak] ,flannel1 ,indigo ,blue1 ,mack9aw1 ,navy ,twill$ ,flannel1 ,silk ,w>p1 ,baby ,flannel4 ,flor5t9e1 ,f\le1 ,frieze1 ,gloria1 ,granada1 ,gr5ad9e1 ,h5rietta ,clo?1 ,homespun1 ,hop ,sack+1 ,jeans1 ,k]sey1 ,k]seym]e1 ,l9sey ,woolsey1 ,melrose1 ,melton1 ,meltonette1 ,m]9o1 ,mohair ,brilliant9e1 ,montagnac1 ,orleans1 ,panama ,clo?1 ,prunella1 ,sack+1 ,sangli]1 ,seba/opol1 ,s]ge1 ,%oddy1 ,sicilian1 ,sultane1 ,tamise1 ,t>tans1 ,?ibet1 ,tricot1 ,twe$1 ,veil+1 ,v5etian1 ,vigogne 7,vicua71 ,vig\reux1 ,voiles1 ,:ipcord1 ,wor/$ ,diagonals1 ,zephyr1 ,zibel9e #hc ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,cotton ,r\gh ,p]uvian1 ,ea/ ,indian1 ,egyptian1 ,sea ,isl&4 ,am]ican ,crop--,plant+1 ,pick+1 ,g9n+--,roll] ,g9s1 ,saw ,g9s4 ,cotton ,g94 ,in=mation on ! ,lead+ ,gr[?s ( ,cotton4 ,grades--,full ,grades1 ,half ,grades1 ,qu>t] ,grades4 ,v>ieties--,sea ,isl& 7select$71 ,sea ,isl& 7ord9>y71 ,florida ,sea ,isl&1 ,georgia1 ,egyptian1 ,peel]1 ,orleans or ,gulf ,upl&1 ,texas #aje ,,*apt] ,x ,,manufacture ,,( ,,cotton ,,y>n ,pick] ,room1 ,c>d+ ,ma*9e1 ,comb+1 ,draw+4 ,fly] ,frames--,int]m$iate ,frame1 ,rov+ ,frame1 ,f9e or ,jack ,frame ,sp9n+--,mule ,sp9n+1 ,r+ ,sp9n+ #abe ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,?read ,,& ,,cotton ,,f9i%+ ,manufactur+ ,processes4 ,?read ,numb]s4 ,siz+4 ,cotton ,f9i%+--,blea*+1 ,/>*+1 ,cal5d]+1 ,m]c]iz+4 ,*>act]i/ics ( f9e ,cotton ,clo? #aci ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,knitt+ ,knitt+ ,ma*9es4 ,/ripe ,knitt+1 ,knitt+ ,cotton1 ,knitt+ ,silk1 ,hosi]y ,manufacture1 ,f9i%+ ,process #aec ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,lace ,ne$lepo9t ,lace4 ,pill[ ,lace4 ,lace ,t]ms ,def9$ #afd ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,cotton ,,fabrics ,albatross1 ,awn+1 ,bati/e1 ,b\rrette1 ,b$=d ,cord1 ,buckram1 ,calico1 ,cambric1 ,canvas1 ,*ambray1 ,*eeseclo?1 ,*91 ,*9tz1 ,cotton ,flannel1 ,cra%1 ,crpe1 ,crepon1 ,cretonne1 ,cr9ol9e1 ,damask1 ,d5im1 ,diap]1 ,dimity1 ,domet1 ,duck1 ,drill1 ,eoli5ne1 ,etam9e1 ,flannelette1 ,fu/ian1 ,galatea ,clo?1 ,gauze1 ,g+ham1 ,italian ,clo?1 ,jaconet1 ,khaki1 ,lawn1 ,l+]ie1 ,l9on1 ,long ,clo?1 ,madras1 ,more51 ,mull1 ,mummy1 ,musl91 ,na9sook1 ,org&ie1 ,osnaburg1 ,p]cale1 ,p]cal9e1 ,piqu1 ,popl91 ,plumetis1 ,rep1 ,sate51 ,scrim1 ,silesia1 ,s\ffle1 ,swiss1 ,tape1 ,t>letan1 ,t]ry ,clo?1 ,zephyr ,g+ham #agc ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,flax ,physical ,/ructure4 ,uses4 ,me*anical ,processes--,cru%+ or ,beat+1 ,break+1 ,scut*+1 ,hackl+1 ,blea*+4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,good ,l951 ,notes on ,table ,l95 #aic ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,hemp ,ba/ ,fib]s1 ,sisal ,hemp1 ,manila ,hemp1 ,ramie1 ,jute #aii ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,silk ,cocoons4 ,raw ,silk4 ,silk-produc+ ,c\ntries--,*9a1 ,japan1 ,italy1 ,s\!rn ,france1 ,greece1 ,turkey1 ,we/]n ,asia4 ,?r[+4 ,?r[n ,silk--,tram1 ,crpe ,y>n4 ,embroid]y ,silk4 ,sew+ ,silk4 ,silk ,wa/e1 ,spun ,silk1 ,floss ,silk4 ,ribbons1 ,silk ,?read1 ,silk ,cord4 ,dye+ ,y>ns4 ,silk ,dye+4 ,logwood ,black ,silk ,dye+--7#a7 ,boil+ ,(f1 7#b7 ,mordant+1 7#c7 ,blue ,bottom+1 7#d7 ,weight+ ,ba?1 7#e7 ,mordant+1 7#f7 ,dye+4 ,color$ ,silks4 ,mix$ ,silk ,fabrics4 ,ribbons1 ,velvets1 ,pr9t+1 ,f9i%+1 ,wat]pro(+ #bjc ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,pr9cipal ,,silk ,,fabrics ,alma1 ,b>ge1 ,b5gal9e1 ,b]b]1 ,brocade1 ,brocatel1 ,bombaz9e1 ,*5ille1 ,*iffon1 ,*9a ,silk1 ,crpe1 ,crpe de ,*9e1 ,eoli5ne1 ,f\l>d1 ,glac1 ,india ,silk1 ,japanese ,silk1 ,j]sey ,clo?1 ,meteor1 ,moire1 ,mozambique1 ,organz9e1 ,panne1 ,peau de ,soie1 ,plu%1 ,pongee1 ,popel9e1 ,popl91 ,figur$ ,popl91 ,t]ry ,popl91 ,s>s5et1 ,sat91 ,soleil1 ,taffeta1 ,tulle1 ,vel\r1 ,velvet1 ,velvete51 ,tabby ,velvet1 ,voile #bai ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,artificial ,,silk ,silk ,cotton1 ,artificial ,silk1 ,te/s #bcj ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,sub/itutes ,,= ,,cotton ,wool ,pulp1 ,ramie1 ,p9eapple ,fib]s1 ,spun ,glass1 ,metallic ,?reads1 ,slag ,wool1 ,asbe/os #bcb ,,app5dix ,det]m9+ ,/yle ( ,weave4 ,te/s = ,/r5g? & ,ela/icity4 ,det]m9+ ,c\nt ( ,w>p & ,fill+1 ,%r9kage1 ,weight4 ,te/s = ,con/itu5ts ( ,w>p & ,fill+1 = ,vegetable & ,animal ,fib]s4 ,acid ,te/4 ,cotton ,di/+ui%$ f ,l951 ,silk f ,wool1 ,artificial ,silk f ,silk4 ,te/ = ,%oddy4 ,det]m9ation ( ,dress+4 ,te/ = ,p]man5ce ( ,dyes #bce ,hi/ory ( ,textiles4 ,hi/ory ( ! ,organization ( ,textile ,indu/ries4 ,hi/ory ( ,manufactur+4 ,hi/ory ( ,lace #bde ,,exp]im5ts ,exp]im5ts #a to #fb #bfg ,s\rces ( ,supply #cai ,index #cbc ,,textiles ,,*apt] ,i ,,fib]s ,all ! mat]ials us$ 9 ! manufacture ( clo?+ are call$ textiles & are made ( ei!r long or %ort fib]s4 ,^! fib]s c be made into a cont9u\s ?read4 ,:5 two diff]5t sets ( ?reads are int]lac$1 ! result+ product is call$ clo?4 ,! value ( any fib] = textile purposes dep5ds entirely ^u ! possession ( su* qualities z firmness1 l5g?1 curl1 s(tness1 ela/icity1 etc41 :i* adapt x = sp9n+4 ,! numb] ( fib]s t possess ^! qualities is small1 & may be classifi$ z foll[s3 ,animal ,fib]s3 ,wool1 ,silk1 ,mohair4 ,vegetable ,fib]s3 ,cotton1 ,flax1 ,jute1 ,hemp1 etc4 ,m9]al ,fib]s3 ,asbe/os1 ,t9sel1 & o!r metallic fib]s4 ,remanufactur$ ,mat]ial3 ,noils1 ,mungo1 ,%oddy1 ,extract1 & ,flocks4 ,artificial ,fib]s3 ,spun ,glass1 ,artificial ,silk1 & ,slag ,wool4 ,! ,/ructure ( ,wool4 ,a l>ge "p ( ! p ( ! _w h always us$ wool = _! clo?+4 ,wool is ! s(t1 curly cov]+ :i* =ms ! fleecy coat ( ! %eep & simil> animals1 su* z ! goat & alpaca4 ,wool fib] :5 view$ "u ! microscope is se5 to consi/ r\ghly ( ?ree p>ts3 #a/4 ,epid]mis1 or out] surface1 :i* is a s]ies ( scales ly+ "o ^u ! o!r4 #b;d4 ,cortex1 or int]m$iate sub/ance1 consi/+ ( angul>1 elongat$ cells1 :i* give /r5g? to ! wool4 #c;d4 ,m$ulla1 or pi? ( ! fib]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wool ,,fib] ,highly magnifi$ ,diff]5ce betwe5 ,wool & ,hair4 ,n all animal fib]s are alike4 ,!y v>y 9 f95ess1 s(tness1 l5g?1 & /r5g?1 f ! f9e/ ,m]9o wool to ! rigid bri/les ( ! wild bo>4 ,at j :at po9t x c be said t ! animal fib] ceases to be wool & becomes hair1 is difficult to det]m9e1 because !re is a gradual & imp]ceptible gradation f wool to hair4#a ,! di/9ction betwe5 wool & hair lies *iefly 9 ! great f95ess1 s(tness1 & wavy delicacy ( ! wool5 fib]1 comb9$ ) its highly s]rat$ surface--^u :i* ! lu/] ( ! wool dep5ds4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,wool4 ,! *ief *>act]i/ic ( wool is its felt+ or %r9k+ p[]4 ,?is felt+ prop]ty f :i* wool d]ives mu* ( its value1 & :i* is its special di/9ction f hair1 dep5ds 9 "p ^u ! k9ks 9 ! fib]1 b ma9ly ^u ! scales ) :i* ! fib] is cov]$4 ,^! scales or po9ts are exce$+ly m9ute1 rang+ f ab\t #a1ajj to ! in* to ne>ly #c1jjj4 ,! /em ( ! fib] itself is extremely sl5d]1 be+ less ?an "o ?\s&? ( an in* 9 diamet]4 ,9 good felt+ wools ! scales are m p]fect & num]\s1 :ile inf]ior wools g5]ally possess few] s]rations1 & are less p]fect 9 /ructure4 ,9 ! process ( felt+ ! fib]s become entangl$ ) "o ano!r1 & ! little project+ scales hook into "o ano!r & hold ! fib]s closely int]lock$4 ,! deep] ^! scales fit into "o ano!r ! clos] becomes ! /ructure ( ! ?read4 ,classification ( ,wool4 ,! v>i\s k9ds ( wool us$ 9 comm]ce are nam$ ei!r f ! bre$ ( ! %eep or f ! c\ntry or locality 9 :i* ! %eep are re>$4 ,?us we get ,m]9o wool f ,m]9o %eep1 :ile ,engli%1 ,am]ican1 & ,au/ralian wools are nam$ f ! respective c\ntries4 ,z ! result ( cross bre$+ ( diff]5t %eep 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w1 "u diff]5t climatic conditions1 physical surr\nd+s1 & soil1 !re exi/ a great _m v>ieties ( wool4 ,! wool ( comm]ce is divid$ into ?ree great classes3 7#a7 ,%ort wool or clo?+ wool 7also call$ c>d+ wool71 seldom exce$+ a l5g? ( two to f\r in*es2 7#b7 long wool or comb+ wool1 v>y+ f f\r to t5 in*es2 7#c7 c>pet & knitt+ wools1 :i* are long1 /rong1 & v co>se4 ,! di/9ction betwe5 clo?+ or c>d+ wools on ! "o h&1 & comb+ wools on ! o!r1 is an old "o4 ,comb+ wools are s call$ because !y are prep>$ = sp9n+#b into y>n by ! process ( comb+--t is1 ! fib]s are made to lie p>allel ) "o ano!r prep>atory to be+ spun into ?read4 ,c>d+ wools--made to cross & int]lace & int]lock ) "o ano!r--are %ort] ?an comb+ wools1 & 9 addition !y possess to a mu* great] degree ! p[] ( felt+--t is1 ( matt+ toge!r 9 a close compact mass4 ,comb+ wools1 on ! o!r h&1 are n only long] ?an ! c>d+ wools1 b !y are also h>d]1 m wiry1 & less incl9$ to be spiral or k9ky4 ,x mu/ be und]/ood1 h[ev]1 t "u ! pres5t me?ods ( manufacture1 %ort wools may be comb$ & spun by ! ,fr5* me?od ( sp9n+ j z ! long wools are comb$ & spun by ! ,brad=d or ,engli% sy/em4 ,c>pet & knitt+ wools are ! *eape/1 co>se/1 & h>%e/ sorts ( wools4 ,!y come pr9cipally f ,russia1 ,turkey1 ,*9a1 ,greece1 ,p]u1 ,*ili1 etc41 & f ! m\nta9 di/ricts ( ,engl& & ,scotl&4 ,c>pet wools approa* m ne>ly to hair ?an o!r wools4 ,! only /aple ( ?is class produc$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates is gr[n on ! orig9al ,mexican %eep ( ! great ,s\?we/4 ,few ( ^! ,mexican %eep are left1 = !y h be5 improv$ by cross bre$+1 b !y con/itute ! f\ndation /ock ( mo/ ( our ,we/]n flocks1 :i* n[ produce sup]ior clo?+ & comb+ wool4 ,%eep ,%e>+4 ,9 ord] to get an idea ( ! importance ( ! %eep indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 "o mu/ take a glance at its condition 9 ! big /ates ( ! ,we/4 ,wyom+ has m ?an #d1fjj1jjj %eep )9 its bord]s4 ,montana1 :i* held ! record until #aiji1 has #d1ejj1jjj %eep4 ,!n comes ,idaho ) #b1ejj1jjj1 ,oregon ) #b1jjj1jjj1 & s on d[n ! li/ until ! nation's total rea*es #dj1jjj1jjj %eep1 f\r-fif?s ( :i* are we/ ( ! ,miss\ri riv]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%eep ,,%e>+ ,to h>ve/ ! wool f su* an enorm\s numb] ( backs is a task t calls = exp]t %e>]s1 m5 :o c h&le ! big %e>s ( ! ma*9e clipp]s ) a skill t comes f long practise4 ,! %e>+ mu/ be done at ! "r "t ( ! ye>4 ,if ! wool is clipp$ too e>ly1 ! %eep suff] f ! cold2 if ! %e>+ comes too late1 ! %eep suff] f int5se heat1 & 9 ei!r case are b\nd to lose weight & value4 ,to meet ! exact+ conditions a class ( m5 has ris5 exp]t 9 ! %eep-%e>+ bus9ess4 ,^! %e>]s beg9 "w 9 s\!rn & middle ,cali=nia1 ,utah1 etc4 ,ano!r mon? f9ds !m busy 9 ! great %eep /ates ( ,wyom+1 ,montana1 ,idaho1 & ,oregon1 :]e !y f9d /eady employm5t until ,july1 :5 !y g to ! ranges ( ,canada4 ,9 ?is way ! %e>]s keep busy ne>ly all ! ye>1 & at high wages4 ,! ,mexicans are p>ticul>ly exp]t ) ! h& %e>s1 ?\gh ?is =m ( clipp+ is be+ done away )1 ow+ to ! in/allation ( p[] plants = ma*9e %e>+4 ,^! plants are in/all$ at v>i\s po9ts on ! great %eep ranges4 ,long %$s are erect$ & %aft+ ext5ds d[n bo? sides ( ! %e>+ place4 ,tw5ty or m %e>]s w be l9$ up 9 "o ( ^! %$s1 ea* man op]at+ a clipp+ ma*9e connect$ ) ! %aft+4 ,! %eep are br\ght 9 f ! range 9 b&s ( #b1ejj or m1 & are put 9 ! corrals adjo9+ ! %e>+ %$s4 ,!n !y are driv5 d[n *utes to ! %e>]s4 ,a %e>] rea*es into a small corral beh9d him & pulls out a %eep4 ,) a dext]\s fl+ ! animal is put 9 a sitt+ po/ure betwe5 ! %e>]'s knees1 & !n ! /eel clipp]s beg9 clipp+ (f ! wool4 ,! ma*9e-%e>+ saves mu* wool1 z x gets clos] to ! sk9 ( ! %eep & %e>s m ev5ly4 ,9 fact1 "s %eep own]s say t ! increas$ weight ( _! fleeces at ea* %e>+ is en\gh to pay ! extra exp5se ( runn+ a p[] plant4 ,z fa/ z ! %eep are turn$ out by ! %e>]s !y are run along a n>r[ *ute & ea* "o is br&$4 ,! br&+ m>k is usually a lett] pa9t$ on ! back ( ! %eep s t x c be pla9ly se5 :5 !y are com+ ?r\gh a *ute4 ,! m>k rema9s on ! fleece & is always easily di/+ui%$4 ,fleece4 ,!re is a great v>iation 9 ! weight ( fleeces4 ,"s %eep1 su* z ^? on ! be/ ranges 9 ,oregon1 ,montana1 & ,wyom+1 w av]age an eight-p\nd fleece full ( natural oil1 :ile %eep f ! m /]ile alkal9e ranges ( ,new ,mexico w n av]age mu* m ?an five p\nds ( wool4 ,! %e>+ season on ! pla9s is mu* l ! ?re%+ season 9 agricultural communities4 ,) a crew ( fir/-class %e>]s work+ 9 a %e>+ %$1 x is n long until ! floor is a sea ( wool4 ,boys are kept busy pick+ up ! fleeces1 ty+ !m into compact bundles1 & ?r[+ !m to ! m5 :o h be5 assign$ to ! task ( fill+ ! wool sacks4 ,^! sacks1 :i* hold ab\t #djj p\nds1 are susp5d$ f a wood5 framework1 & z fa/ z ! fleeces are ?r[n 91 !y are tramp$ d[n until ! sacks w n hold a p\nd m4 ,mo/ ( ! sacks are %ipp$ to w>eh\ses 9 su* wool c5t]s z ,casp]1 ,wyom+1 or ,bill+s1 ,montana1 ! latt] place be+ ! greate/ wool %ipp+ c5t] 9 ! _w4 ,"h !y are sold to ,ea/]n buy]s1 :o exam9e ! clips at _! leisure & make _! bids4 ,value ( ,wool ,bus9ess4 ,"s idea ( ! =tunes at /ake 9 ! wool bus9ess c be ga!r$ f ! fact t ! total wool product ( ! c\ntry 9 #aiji 0 valu$ at #gh1bfc1afe4 ,x is expect$ t ! returns f ! wool clip 9 a fairly good ye> w pay all a %eepman's runn+ exp5ses1 su* z hire ( h]d]s1 co/ ( %e>+1 etc4 ,he !n has ! sale ( 8 lambs z cle> pr(it4 ,enorm\s =tunes are be+ made 9 ! %eep bus9ess 9 ! we/1 ow+ to ! high price ( wool & mutton4 ,saxony & ,silesian ,wool4 ,among wools ( all classes ! ,saxony & ,silesian take ! fir/ place1 & = g5]al good qualities1 f95ess1 & regul>ity ( fib]1 !y are unequall$4 ,! fib] is %ort 9 /aple1 possesses good felt+ prop]ties1 & is /rong & ela/ic4 ,?is wool is us$ *iefly 9 ! manufacture ( clo?s :]e mu* mill+#c is requir$1 su* z sup]f9es & dress-fac$ fabrics4 ,au/ralian ,wools4 ,au/ralia furni%es wools ( a sup]ior "*1 & "s ( ! *oice/ clips rival ! ,saxony & ,silesian wools4 ,!y are us$ bo? = wor/$#d & wool5 y>ns4 ,!y are g5]ally /rong & ( an ela/ic "*1 possess num]\s s]rations1 & are ( good color1 ) good felt+ prop]ties4 ,! pr9cipal ,au/ralian wools are ,port ,philip1 ,sydney1 & ,adelaide wools4 ,^! are ! be/ br&s import$ f t c\ntry4 ,port ,philip ,wool4 ,port ,philip wool is suitable = ei!r wor/$ or wool5 y>ns4 ,! fib] is n q z f9e z ,saxony1 b x makes a good ?read1 is fairly s\nd 9 /aple1 & is ( good l5g? & color4 ,x is v wavy & s]rat$4 ,! longe/ & be/ ( ?is wool is us$ = ! v f9e/ wor/$ y>ns1 & w sp9 up to #acj's c\nts4#e ,! %eep are desc5dants ( ! orig9al ,spani% ,m]9o4 ,cross br$ ,port ,philip wool is f ! same ,m]9o %eep cross$ ) ,leice/]s1 :i* yield a m$ium quality fleece ( s\nd fib] & good quality = sp9n+ c\nts f #dj's to #ef's4 ,! y>n has a bright1 cle> appe>ance4 ,sydney ,wools4 ,sydney wools are mod]ately f9e 9 fib] & ( m$ium l5g?4 ,!y are r defici5t 9 /r5g?1 unev5 9 color1 & (t5 conta9 yell[ locks :i* make !m undesirable :5 requir$ = dye+ light %ades4 ,!y are us$ = ne>ly ! same purpose z ,port ,philip wools1 b d n sp9 q z f> 9 wor/$ y>ns1 nor are !y equal 9 mill+ qualities4 ,adelaide ,wool4 ,adelaide wool has a reputation = s\nd ,m]9os1 ! av]age quality be+ a little l[] ?an = ! ,port ,philip & ,sydney wools4 ,its fib] is mod]ately f9e1 b n ( uni=m l5g?2 its color is n s good1 & x conta9s a l>ge am\nt ( yolk4#f ,adelaide wool is us$ = wor/$ dress goods1 weft 7fill+7#g y>n up to #fj's1 & c]ta9 wor/$ w>ps4#g ,x is us$ = m$ium fancy wool5s4 ,van ,wool f ,tasmania4 ,! climate ( ?is isl& is well suit$ to ! gr[+ ( wool1 & produces excell5t qualities1 f9e 9 fib]1 ( good l5g?1 & /rong 9 ! /aple1 :i* w sp9 z high c\nts z #gj's & #hj's wor/$4 ,?is wool is useful = mix+ ) o!r good wools4 ,its color is v :ite1 :i* makes x a useful wool = dye+ light %ades4 ,its mill+ prop]ties are good1 & ! %ort] sorts are suitable = wool5s4 ,new ,zeal& ,wools are v supple1 :i* make !m valuable to ! sp9n]4 ,^! wools are suitable = almo/ all classes ( ,m]9o & crossbr$ y>ns4 ,!y are ( good l5g?1 s\nd /aple1 h good felt+ prop]ties1 & are ( good color4 ,!y are useful = bl5d+ ) mungo & %oddy1 to give to ^! remanufactur$ mat]ials t spr+y1 bulky "* :i* !y lack4 ,cape ,wools4 ,cape ,colony & ,natal produce m]9o wool t is some:at %ort 9 /aple1 r t5d]1 & less wavy ?an "s o!r wools4 ,! %eep are n s well c>$ =1 & are f$ on ! leaves ( a small %rub4 ,! abs5ce ( grass leaves ! gr\nd v s&y1 & ?is makes ! fleece heavy & dirty4 ,its color is fair1 b x lacks ela/icity4 ,x is us$ *iefly to *eap5 bl5ds#h ( #fj's top4#i ,! %ort wool is comb$ = ?ick c\nts = weft & hosi]y1 & is also us$ = %awls & clo?s :]e felt+ is n an ess5tial feature4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m]9o ,,%eep ,wools f ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,^! wools are ( ! same /&>d ( excell5ce z ! ,au/ralian wools1 b !y are g5]ally defici5t 9 /r5g? & ela/icity4 ,bu5os ,ayres & ,montevideo wools are fairly f9e 9 fib]1 b lack /r5g? & ela/icity1 & are defici5t 9 mill+ prop]ties2 !y are also burry4 ,! climate suits ! %eep well1 & ! fe$ is good1 b ! c>eless me?ods ( class+ & pack+ h e>n$ = ^! wools a poor reputation t is well des]v$4 ,! be/ #fj's wool is comb$ 9 oil1 b a l>ge portion ( ! %ort] is comb$ & us$ 9 ?ick c\nts1--#bj's to #cf's wor/$ = ! hosi]y trade4 ,russian ,wool4 ,! /aple ( ?is is g5]ally /rong1 & ! fib]s are ( a m$ium ?ickness2 ! color is milky :ite4 ,x is useful to bl5d ) ,au/ralian or o!r good wools4 ,x produces a good y>n1 & is v (t5 us$ 9 ! fancy wool5 trade & 9 fabrics t require to be f9i%$ 9 ! natural color4 ,great ,brita9 ,wools4 ,^! may be divid$ into ?ree gr\ps3 7#a7 long wools1 ( :i* ! ,l9coln & ,leice/] are typical examples2 7#b7 %ort wools1 :i* include ,s\?d[n1 ,%rop%ire1 ,suffolk1 & o!rs2 & 7#c7 wool f ! m\nta9 or hilly bre$s ( %eep1 su* z ! ,*eviot1 ,scot* ,blackface1 ,%etl&1 ,iri%1 & ,wel%4 ,l9coln ,wool is a typical wool obta9$ f ! long wool %eep1 & not$ = its long1 lu/r\s fib]1 :i* is silky & /rong4 ,! /aple v>ies f t5 to eighte5 in*es 9 l5g?1 & ! av]age fleece w yield f t5 to f\rte5 p\nds 9 weight4 ,leice/] ,wool has a some:at f9] fib] ?an ,l9coln4 ,x is a valuable wool1 ( good color1 uni=m & s\nd 9 /aple1 curly1 ) good1 bright lu/] & no d>k hairs4 ,:ile lu/] wools are gr[n ext5sively 9 ,engl&1 !y also gr[ 9 ,indiana & ,k5tucky1 & are commonly kn[n 9 ! trade z braid wool4 ,s\?d[n is "o ( ! mo/ valuable ( %ort /aple wools4 ,x possesses a f9e hair1 is close & wavy1 & fairly s\nd 9 /aple1 b r defici5t 9 mill+ qualities4 ,! %ort] v>ieties are c>d$ & made into flannels & o!r light fabrics1 :ile ! long] qualities are us$ 9 ! production ( wor/$ goods4 ,! weight ( a ,s\?d[n fleece av]ages f f\r to five p\nds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wool ,,m>ket ,,at ,,bu5os ,,ayres ,%rop%ir$[n wool is ( good quality1 ) /rong1 f9e1 lu/r\s fib]1 ( good l5g?4 ,x resembles ,s\?d[n1 b is n z lu/r\s z mohair1 ! natural colors be+ ei!r :ite1 black1 br[n1 or fawn4 ,x is us$ *iefly 9 ! manufacture ( dress goods4 ,ca%m]e ,wool is ! f9e1 woolly1 extremely s(t1 :ite or gray fur ( ! ,ca%m]e goat :i* is br$ 9 ,?ibet4 ,!re are two k9ds ( fib] obta9$3 "o1 :i* is really ! out] cov]+1 consi/s ( long tufts ( hair2 und]nea? ?is is ! ,ca%m]e wool ( comm]ce1 a s(t1 d[ny wool ( a br[ni%-gray t9t1 ) a f9e1 silky fib]4 ,x is us$ = mak+ ! co/ly ori5tal 7,indian7 %awls & ! f9e/ wraps4 ,! ,norfolkd[n & ,suffolkd[n ,wools are fairly f9e 9 fib] & s(t1 b slightly defici5t 9 /r5g? & ela/icity4 ,*eviot ,wool may be tak5 z repres5tative ( ! hilly bre$s ( %eep4 ,x is an av]age wool1 ) /aple ( m$ium l5g?1 s(t1 & ) /rong & regul> fib]2 x is ( a good1 bright color1 & possesses desirable mill+ prop]ties1 be+ us$ = bo? wool5 & wor/$1 b *iefly 9 ! fancy wool5 trade4 ,! av]age weight ( ! fleece is ab\t #d-a_/b p\nds4 ,! black-fac$ or ,highl& bre$ yields a m$ium wool1 co>s] & m %aggy ?an ! ,*eviot1 & v>y+ mu* 9 quality4 ,x is almo/ all us$ 9 ! production ( rugs1 c>pets1 & blankets4 ,wel% ,wools lack wav9ess & f95ess ( fib]4 ,!y are *iefly us$ = flannels4 ,%etl& ,wools are simil> 9 "* to ,wel% wools1 b slightly f9] 9 fib] & s(t]4 ,!y are us$ 9 ! manufacture ( knitt$ goods1 su* z %awls & wraps4 ,!y lack felt+ prop]ties4 ,iri% ,wools possess a /rong1 ?ick hair ( mod]ate l5g? & f9e color4 ,!y are simil> 9 _m respects to ! ,wel% wools1 & are (t5 class$ ) !m4 ,!y are us$ 9 ! production ( l[ & m$ium twe$s--fancy wool5 clo?s n requir+ small y>ns or mill+ qualities4 ,mohair is a lu/r\s wool obta9$ f ! ,angora goat1 :i* d]ives its "n f ! di/rict ( ,asia ,m9or f :i* x comes4 ,^! animals h also be5 successfully br$ 9 ,spa9 & ,france4 ,! hair is pure :ite1 f9e1 wavy1 & ( good l5g?1 & possesses a high lu/]4 ,x is us$ 9 mak+ plu%es1 velvets1 a/rakhans1 & curl$ fabrics1 also half silk goods & f9e wraps4 ,alpaca ,wool is ! fleece ( ! ,p]uvian %eep1 :i* is a species ( llama4 ,! /aple is ( good l5g? & s(t1 b is n q z lu/r\s z mohair1 ! natural colors be+ ei!r :ite1 black1 br[n1 or fawn4 ,x is us$ *iefly 9 ! manufacture ( dress goods4 ,h[ ,wool is ,m>ket$4 ,! bulk ( ! wool ( comm]ce comes into ! m>ket 9 ! =m ( fleece wool1 ! product ( a s+le ye>'s gr[?1 & cut f ! body ( ! animal usually 9 ,april or ,may4 ,! fir/ & f9e/ clip1 call$ lamb's wool1 may be tak5 f ! "y %eep at ! age ( eight to twelve mon?s4 ,all subsequ5tly cut fleeces are kn[n z we!r wool & possess relatively some:at less value ?an ! fir/ clip4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,hair is /raight & glossy1 /rong] & smoo!r ?an wool1 & gr[s sometimes z long z tw5ty in*es4 #b ,sp9n+ is a process by :i* long or %ort fib]s are twi/$ into a cont9u\s ?read4 #c ,a process ( f9i%+ clo? by cond5s+ ! fib]s s z to make ! clo? /rong] & firm]4 #d ,see footnote1 page #ci4 #e ,! size ( y>n is te*nically call$ ! c\nts & is bas$ on ! numb] ( #efj y>d l5g?s requir$ to weigh "o p\nd4 ,9 ?is case #acj's c\nt #acj #efj1 or #gb1hjj y>ds ( y>n to a p\nd4 #f ,an encru/+ comp\nd ( dirt & grease =m$ on ! fleece4 #g ,see page #ed4 #h ,mixtures4 #i ,aft] wool fib]s are comb$ !y are call$ top4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,wool ,,sort+ ,fleece wool z x comes to ! mill is roll$ up 9 bundles & mu/ be sort$4 ,?is process consi/s 9 sort+ & classify+ ! fib]s ( ! fleece4 ,n only d ! v>i\s species ( %eep furni% widely diff]5t qualities ( wool1 b diff]5t qualities are obta9$ f ! same animal1 accord+ to ! "p ( ! body f :i* ! wool is tak54 ,?is v>iation 9 "s in/ances is v m>k$1 & sometimes is great] ?an t :i* sep>ates ! wools ( ! diff]5t bre$s ( %eep4 ,h5ce ! sort+ & class+ ( wool become necess>y = ! production ( good1 s\nd y>n ( ev5 quality4 ,an attempt to utilize ! fleece z a :ole w\ld result 9 ! sp9n+ ( unev51 faulty1 & unsatisfactory y>ns4 ,z _m z twelve or f\rte5 sorts may be obta9$ f "o fleece 7by v f9e sort+71 b g5]ally n m ?an five or sev5 are made4 ,! foll[+ table %[s ! relative qualities ( wools f ! v>i\s p>ts ( a ,m]9o %eep3 #a & #b4 ,head 7top & sides73 ,! wools gr[n on ^! p>ts are rem>kable = l5g? ( /aple1 s(tness1 & uni=mity ( "*4 ,!y are usually ! *oice/ wools 9 ! fleece4 #c4 ,upp] "p ( ! back3 ,?is also is a wool ( good1 s\nd quality1 resembl+ 9 /aples ,nos4 #a & #b1 b n z s(t or z f9e ( fib]4 #d4 ,lo9 & back3 ,! /aple "h is comp>atively %ort1 n z f9e1 b g5]ally ( unv>y+ "*1 sometimes r t5d]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sort+ ,,room #e4 ,upp] p>ts ( legs3 ,?is wool is m$ium 9 l5g? b co>se ( fib]1 & has a t5d5cy to hang 9 loose1 op5 locks4 ,x is g5]ally s\nd1 b likely to conta9 vegetable matt]4 #f4 ,upp] portion ( ! neck3 ,! /aple clipp$ f ?is "p ( ! neck is ( an inf]ior quality1 frequ5tly faulty & irregul> 9 gr[?1 & conta9s twigs1 ?orns1 etc4 #g4 ,c5tral "p ( ! neck3 ,?is wool is simil> to ,no4 #f b r t5d] 9 /aple4 #h4 ,belly3 ,?is wool is f "u ! %eep1 betwe5 ! =e & h9d legs4 ,x is %ort & dirty1 poor 9 quality1 & g5]ally t5d]4 #i4 ,root ( tail3 ,9 ?is wool ! fib]s are co>se1 %ort1 & glossy4 #aj4 ,l[] p>ts ( ! legs3 ,?is wool is g5]ally dirty & greasy1 ! /aple hav+ no wave & lack+ f95ess4 ,x is g5]ally burry & conta9s mu* vegetable matt]4 #aa4 ,front ( ,head2 #ab4 ,?roat2 #ac4 ,*e/3 ,! wools f ^! p>ts are sometimes class$ toge!r1 all hav+ ! same *>act]i/ics4 ,! fib] is /iff1 /raight1 co>se1 & cov]$ ) fodd]4 #ad4 ,%9s3 ,?is is ano!r %ort1 ?ick1 /raight wool ( glossy fib]1 commonly kn[n z %anks4 ,class+4 ,class+ is a grad+ ( ! fleeces1 & is usually1 b n always1 a process prelim9>y to sort+4 ,x is an important "p ( sort+1 & :5 well done greatly facilitates ! mak+ ( good1 uni=m mat*+s4 ,grades ( ,wool4 ,9 ! grad+ ( wool no set /&>d ( quality exi/s4 ,! same classification may be appli$ 9 diff]5t ye>s1 or 9 diff]5t localities1 to qualities ( wool %[+ mu* v>iation1 ! be/ grade obta9able usually sett+ ! /&>d = ! l[] grades4 ,! highe/ quality ( wool 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates is f\nd on full-blood$ ,m]9o %eep4 ,m]9o ,wool4 ,! ,m]9o %eep 0 br$ = wool & n mutton4 ,! fleece ( ?is bre$ is f9e1 /rong1 ela/ic1 & ( good color2 x also possesses a high felt+ p[]4 ,?\gh naturally %ort1 x is n[ gr[n to good l5g? & ! fleece is d5se4 ,! ,m]9o %eep is a native ( ,spa91 & ,spa9 0 = a long p]iod ! *ief c\ntry ( its production4 ,x 0 also 9 pa/ c5turies ext5sively br$ 9 ,engl& & ,engli% wool owes mu* to ! ,m]9o = ! improvem5t x has effect$ 9 ! fleeces ( o!r bre$s ( ,engli% %eep4 ,x 0 also introduc$ into ,saxony & 0 highly br$ !re1 & ,saxony soon came to surpass ,spani% wool 9 f95ess1 s(tness1 & felt+ prop]ties4 ,! ,m]9o 0 introduc$ into ! ,unit$ ,/ates at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,by #ahaj1 #e1jjj ,m]9o %eep _h be5 import$ & ^! #e1jjj %eep =m$ ! basis ( mo/ ( ! f9e wool-produc+ flocks ( our c\ntry to-day4 ,! t]ms half blood1 ?ree-eigh?s blood1 & qu>t] blood ref] to ! full-blood$ ,m]9o /&>d4 ,z ! scale desc5ds ! wool becomes co>s]1 ! wool ( a qu>t] blood usually be+ a comp>atively co>se fib]4 ,! g5]al classifications ( f9e1 m$ium1 co>se1 & l[1 ref] to ! relative f95ess ( ,m]9o comb+ wools4 ,^! di/9ctions naturally ov]lap accord+ to ! op9ion ( ! p>ties 9 transactions4 ,picklock ,,xxx & ,,xx repres5t ! highe/ grades ( clo?+ wool1 ! grade next l[] be+ ,x1 & !n ,nos4 #a & #b4 ,^! aga9 are us$ 9 connection ) ! locality f :i* ! wool is gr[n1 z ,ohio ,,xx1 ,mi*igan ,x1 ,new ,york ,no4 #a1 etc4 ,diff]5ce ,betwe5 ,lamb's & ,%eep's ,wool4 ,"o ( ! fir/ po9ts to be und]/ood 9 wool sort+ is ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! wool ( lambs & "o-ye>-old %eep1 & t ( %eep two or m ye>s old4 ,lamb's wool is naturally po9t$ at ! end1 because x has nev] be5 clipp$4 ,x is t]m$ hog or hoggett wool1 & is m valuable :5 long]1 ( ab\t f\rte5 mon?s' gr[?4 ,x is f9] 9 quality & possesses m wav9ess1 :i* is a help 9 ! process ( sp9n+4 ,! wool ( %eep two or m ye>s old is kn[n z we!r4 ,! ends ( ! fib] f su* %eep are ?ick & blunt$1 on acc\nt ( hav+ be5 previ\sly cut4 ,x is necess>y to be able to tell at once a hog fleece f a we!r1 & ?is c be done 9 two ways3 by exam9+ ! ends ( ! fib] to see if !y are po9t$2 or by pull+ a /aple out ( ! fleece4 ,if x is we!r1 ! /aple w come out clean1 )\t int]f]+ to any ext5t ) ^? ar\nd x2 b if hog1 "s ( ! fib]s w adh]e to ! "o t is be+ pull$4 ,hog wool is g5]ally m full ( dirt1 moss1 /raw1 & o!r vegetable matt]4 ,dead ,wool is wool obta9$ f ! pelts ( %eep t h di$4 ,pull$ ,wool4 ,pull$ wool is wool f ! pelts#aj z !y come f ! slaught]-h\ses ( l>ge pack+ plants4 ,^! pelts are ?r[n into vats ( wat] & left to soak = tw5ty-f\r h\rs to loos5 ! dirt :i* has become matt$ into ! wool4 ,f ^! vats ! pelts are tak5 to scrubb+ ma*9es f :i* ! wool issues p]fectly clean & :ite4 ,! pelts are next fre$ f any p>ticles ( fle% or fat :i* may h adh]$ to !m1 & are !n tak5 to ! pa9t+ room4 ,"h !y are laid fle% side up & c>efully pa9t$ ) a prep>ation = loos5+ ! roots ( ! wool4 ,?is prep>ation is all[$ to rema9 on ! pelts = tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 :5 x is clean$ (f & ! pelts tak5 to ! pull+ room4 ,ea* wool pull] /&s be=e a small wood5 framework ov] :i* ! pelt is ?r[n1 & ! wool1 be+ all ?or\ghly loos5$ by ! pa9t prep>ation1 is easily & quickly pull$ out by ! h&ful4 ,z x is pull$ x is ?r[n into b>rels conv5i5tly arrang$ accord+ to grade & l5g?4 ,:5 a b>rel is fill$1 x is transf]r$ to a l>ge room across :i* are sev]al r[s ( wire nett+1 rais$ ab\t ?ree feet f ! floor4 ,ea* %eet ( nett+ is ab\t six feet wide4 ,"h ! wool is pil$ on ! nett+ to a dep? ( sev]al in*es & hot air is =c$ und]nea? x by means ( a bl[]4 ,mean:ile x is work$ ov] by m5 ) rakes1 & soon dries4 ,:5 ?or\ghly dry1 x is rak$ up & tak5 to ! /or]oom1 :]e x is dump$ into b9s4 ,"h x usually rema9s op5 = inspection & sampl+ till x is sold1 :5 x is bagg$4 ,! bags ( wool ultimately f9d _! way to ! wool5 mill or sampl+ h\se4 ,sometimes ! fleece w reta9 its fleece =m1 b usually x breaks up4 ,! wool conta9s lime & has to be specially treat$ by a sc\r+ process to prev5t lime f absorb+ ! cleans+ sub/ances us$ = sc\r+ ! wool4 ,dela9e ,wool is a v>iety ( f9e1 long comb+ wool4 ,cotty ,wool1 or cotts1 is wool f %eep t h be5 expos$ to sev]e wea!r & lack ( n\ri%m5t1 & = ^! reasons h fail$ to ?r[ (f ! yolk necess>y to fe$ ! wool4 ,z a result x becomes matt$ or felt$ toge!r1 & is h>d & brittle & almo/ wor?less4 ,wool ,sort]4 ,! sort] beg9s by plac+ ! fleece ^u 8 bo>d or table1 always arrang+ x s t he faces ! nor?1 z ?is gives ! mo/ con/ant light & no gl>e ( ! sun4 ,! fleece ?us spread out %[s a def9ite divid+ l9e ?r\gh ! c5t]4 ,! sort] p>ts ! two halves & proce$s to analyze _! diff]5t qualities4 ,! numb] ( sorts is det]m9$ by ! requirem5ts ( ! manufactur] :o1 9 pur*as+ 8 wool1 buys ^? grades t w produce ! greate/ bulk ( ! qualities = pres5t use1 & t leave 9 /ock ! smalle/ numb] ( sorts & lea/ weight = :i* he has no imm$iate use4 ,! sort] !n removes all extrane\s matt] adh]+ to ! fleece1 su* z /raw1 twigs1 & se$s1 & cuts (f ! h>d lumps ( e>?1 t>1 or pa9t1 :i*1 if n remov$ at ?is "t1 w dissolve 9 ! sc\r+ process & /a9 ! wool4 ,) ^! prelim9>ies f9i%$1 he proce$s to ca/ out ! locks1 accord+ to quality1 into baskets or skeps provid$ = t purpose4 ,aft] skirt+ or tak+ (f ! outside edges ( ! fleece1 usually kn[n z brokes1 & ! legs & tail1 kn[n z bree*1 he sep>ates ! o!r portions f ! bett] qualities4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sort$ ,,wool ,,9 ,,piles ,,ready ,,to ,,be ,,transport$ ,,to ,,! ,,degreas+ ,,plant ,picklock1 prime1 *oice1 sup]1 head1 d[nrights1 seconds1 bree*1 etc41 are "s ( ! t]ms us$4 ,picklock comprises ! *oice/ qualities2 prime is simil> to picklock1 b slightly inf]ior2 *oice is true /aple1 b n z f9e 9 fib]2 sup] is simil> to *oice1 b z a rule n z valuable2 head includes ! inf]ior sorts f ?is "p ( ! %eep2 d[nrights come f ! l[] p>ts ( ! sides2 seconds consi/ ( ! be/ wool clipp$ f ! ?roat & brea/2 bree*1 ! %ort1 co>se fib]s obta9$ f ! skirt+ & edg+s ( ! fleece4 ,9 ! wor/$ trade diff]5t names are us$4 ,! t]ms g5]ally adopt$ are3 blue1 f ! neck2 f9e1 f ! %\ld]s2 neat1 f ! middle ( ! sides & back2 br[n-draw+s1 f ! haun*es2 bree*1 f ! tail & h9d legs2 c[tail1 :5 ! bree* is v /rong2 brokes1 f ! l[] "p ( ! front legs & belly1 :i* are class$ z sup]1 middle1 & common4 ,f9e1 %ort wools are sort$ accord+ to ! numb] ( c\nts ( y>n !y are expect$ to sp91 z #dh's1 #fj's1 #gj's1 & s on4 ,?us we see !re are diff]5t me?ods ( indicat+ qualities 9 diff]5t di/ricts1 & also ( indicat+ diff]5ces ( qualities betwe5 ! wool5 & wor/$ bran*es ( ! trade4 ,x may be not$ t ! quality ( ! wool v>ies 9 ! same way z ! quality ( ! fle%4 ,! %\ld] is f9e/ 9 gra9 & mo/ delicate1 s ! wool is f9] 9 fib]4 ,!re is m we> & te> = ! %eep at its haun*es ?an at its %\ld]s1 h5ce ! wool is long] & /rong]2 ab\t ! neck ! wool is %ort1 to prev5t ! %eep f be+ weight$ d[n :ile eat+1 etc42 ! wool on ! back becomes r\gh & ?91 be+ mo/ expos$ to ! ra94 ,f ! =ego+ x w be readily se5 t !re is necessity = c>eful sort+1 9 ord] to insure obta9+ an ev5 runn+ y>n1 & subsequ5tly a uni=m quality ( fabrics4 ,wool ,wa%+4 ,fleece wool z x comes into ! m>ket is ei!r 9 ! grease1 t is1 unwa%$ & ) all ! dirt :i* ga!rs on ! surface ( ! greasy wool2 or x is receiv$ z wa%$ wool1 ! wa%+ be+ done z a prelim9>y /ep to ! %eep %e>+4 ,wool1 unlike cotton1 _c be work$ into y>n )\t be+ ?or\ghly cleans$ ( its impurities4 ,^! impurities consi/ ( greasy & sweaty secretions1 ( ! nature ( a lubricant to ! fib]4 ,comb9$ ) dirt1 s&1 etc41 :i* adh]e to ! wool1 ^! secretions =m an encru/+ comp\nd1 kn[n z yolk1 :i* acts z a natural pres]vative to ! wool1 keep+ x s(t & supple4 ,?is comp\nd1 ) o!r extrane\s matt]1 mu/ be remov$ be=e ! wool is 9 a workable condition4 ,! am\nt ( yolk v>ies1 ! greate/ am\nt be+ f\nd 9 f9e1 %ort wools f ! w>m climates4 ,9 long-/aple wool ! am\nt ( yolk is comp>atively small4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wa%+ ,,room ,v>i\s me?ods ( remov+ ^! impurities h be5 tri$2 "o is ! use ( absorb5t sub/ances1 su* z fossil meal1 alum9a1 etc41 to )draw ! greasy matt]1 s t ! rema9+ impurities c be easily remov$ by wa%+4 ,9 o!r me?ods1 naph?a or simil> solv5t liquids are us$ to dissolve ! wool fats4 ,?is is foll[$ by wa%+ 9 tepid wat] to dissolve ! pota% salts1 leav+ ! dirt to fall away :5 ! o!r sub/ances are no long] pres5t4 ,to "w ?is me?od ) safety requires a co/ly & intricate plant ) skill$ sup]vision4 ,! me?od :i* is practically 9 univ]sal use is wa%+ ! wool 9 alkal9e solutions1 prop]ties ( :i* comb9e ) & r$uce ! impurities to a la!ry emulsion :i* is easily wa%$ (f f ! wool4 ,great /ress is laid ^u ! necessity ( c>e 9 ! wa%+ process1 z ! lu/] may be de/roy$ & a br[ni%-yell[ t9t giv5 to ! wool1 ! sp9n+ prop]ties v s]i\sly injur$1 ! s(tness de/roy$1 or ! fib] dissolv$4 ,"s wools are easy to wa%1 requir+ little soap & a reasonable temp]ature2 o!r wools are cleans$ ) great difficulty4 ,a note1 !re=e1 %\ld be made ( any p>ticul> br& or class ( wool requir+ special att5tion1 to s]ve z a guide 9 ! treatm5t ( future lots4 ,! dang] lies 9 us+ unsuitable ag5ts1--h>d wat]1 excessive temp]atures1 /rong reag5ts1 etc4 ,cau/ic alkalies h a mo/ de/ructive effect on wool z !y eat into x & de/roy its vitality4 ,c>bonate alkalies are less sev]e4 ,:atev] cleans+ sub/ances are us$1 x is ess5tial t !y %\ld be free f any?+ t is likely to injure ! wool--t !y remove ! impurities & /ill pres]ve all ! qualities 9 ! wool4 ,if ! wa%+ is prop]ly p]=m$ ! alkal9e portion ( ! yolk is remov$1 leav+ only ! colorless animal oil 9 ! fib]4 ,if ! "w is n ?or\ghly done ! wool passes z unm]*antable wa%$4 ,tub wa%$ is ! t]m appli$ to fleeces :i* are brok5 up & wa%$ m or less by h&4 ,sc\r$ wool is tub wa%$ ) w>m wat] & soap1 & !n ?or\ghly r9s$ 9 cold wat] until no?+ rema9s b ! clean fib]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,degreas+ ,,plant--,,remov+ ,,grease ,,f ,,wool ,an improv$ me?od ( wa%+ wool by h& is to h a s]ies ( tanks ) press+ roll]s atta*$ to ea* tank3 ! wool is agitat$ by means ( =ks1 & !n pass$ to ! press+ roll]s & into ea* tank 9 succession4 ,! tanks are usually five 9 numb]1 & s arrang$ t ! liquor c be run f ! upp] to ! l[] tank4 ,^u leav+ ! press+ roll]s ! excess ( wat] is driv5 (f 9 a hydro extractor#aa & ! wool is beat5 into a light1 fluffy condition by means ( a wood5 fan or beat]4 ,wool ,dry+4 ,! process ( dry+ wool is n int5d$ to be c>ri$ to su* an ext5t t ! wool w be 9 an absolutely dry /ate1 = 9 su* a condition x w\ld be lu/]less1 brittle1 & discolor$4 ,x is ! nature ( wool to reta9 a c]ta9 am\nt ( moi/ure s9ce x is hygroscopic1 & to remove x entirely w\ld result 9 p>tial dis9tegration ( ! fib]s4 ,buy]s & sell]s h a recogniz$ /&>d ( moi/ure1 #af p] c5t4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 x is left too wet1 ! fib]s w n /& ! pull+ /ra9 9 ! succe$+ op]ations1 & if n brok51 !y are s unduly /ret*$ t !y h lo/ _! ela/icity4 ,! !ory :i* und]lies ! dry+ process is t dry air is capable ( absorb+ moi/ure1 h5ce by circulat+ curr5ts ( dry air 9 & ar\nd wet wool1 ! absorb+ p[] ( ! air draws (f ! moi/ure4 ,= cont9u\s dry+ free circulation is a necessity1 z o!rwise ! air w\ld soon become saturat$ & incapable ( tak+ up m moi/ure4 ,w>m+ ! air increases its capacity to absorb moi/ure2 ?us a high] temp]ature is capable ( dry+ ! wool mu* quick] ?an ! same volume ( air w\ld at a l[ temp]ature4 ,a free circulation ( air at #ge to #ajj degrees ,f41 ev5ly di/ribut$1 & ) ample provision = ! escape ( ! saturat$ air1 is ess5tial = good "w4 ,oil+4 ,aft] be+ sc\r$ wool g5]ally has to be oil$ be=e x is ready = ! processes ( sp9n+1 bl5d+1 etc4 ,z deliv]$ f ! dry+ app>atus1 ! wool is bright & clean1 b some:at h>% & wiry to ! t\*1 ow+ to ! removal ( ! yolk :i* is its natural lubricant4 ,to r5d] x s(t & ela/ic1 & to improve its sp9n+ qualities1 ! fib] is spr9kl$ ) l>d oil or olive oil4 ,z ! oil is a co/ly item1 x is ( consequ5ce t x be equally di/ribut$ & us$ economically4 ,to atta9 ?is end v>i\s =ms ( oil+ app>atus h be5 inv5t$1 :i* spr9kle ! oil 9 a f9e spray ov] ! wool1 :i* is c>ri$ "u ! spr9kl] by an endless clo?4 ,burr+ & ,c>boniz+4 ,aft] wool has be5 wa%$ & sc\r$ x frequ5tly happ5s t x _c be advanc$ to ! succe$+ op]ations ( manufacture because x is mix$ ) burs1 se$s1 leaves1 sliv]s1 etc41 :i* are pick$ up by ! %eep 9 ! pa/ure4 ,^! vegetable impurities injure ! sp9n+ qualities ( ! /ock1 = if a bur or o!r =eign sub/ance becomes fa/5$ 9 ! /r& ( y>n :ile x is be+ spun1 x ei!r causes ! ?read to break or r5d]s x bun*y & unev54 ,= remov+ burs1 etc41 f ! wool two me?ods are pursu$3 ! "o purely me*anical1 ! o!r *emical1 & kn[n respectively z burr+ & c>boniz+4 ,bur ,pick]4 ,= ! me*anical remov+ ( burs a ma*9e call$ ! bur pick] is employ$4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! wool is fir/ spread out into a ?9 lap or %eet2 !n light wood5 blades1 rotat+ rapidly1 beat ^u e "p ( ! %eet & break ! burs into pieces4 ,! pieces fall d[n into ! du/ box or ^u a grat+ b5ea? ! ma*9e1 & are eject$ toge!r ) a good deal ( ! wool adh]+ to !m4 ,(t5 ! ma*9e fails to beat out f9e pieces & ^! are scatt]$ ?r\gh ! /ock4 ,process ( ,c>boniz+4 ,= ! complete removal ( all =eign vegetable sub/ances f wool ! mo/ effective process is c>boniz+1 9 :i* ! burs1 etc41 are burn$ out by means ( acid & a high degree ( heat4 ,! me?od ( proc$ure is z foll[s3 ,! wool to be treat$ is imm]s$ 9 a solution ( sulphuric or hydro*loric acid = ab\t twelve h\rs1 ! acid ba? be+ plac$ 9 cem5t ci/]ns or 9 l>ge lead-l9$ tubs & n made /rong en\gh to injure ! fib] ( ! wool4 ,dur+ ! imm]sion ! /ock is frequ5tly /irr$4 ,next1 ! wool is dri$ & !n plac$ 9 an enclos$ *amb] & subject$ to a high temp]ature 7#ge degrees ,c474 ,! result ( ?is process is t all ! vegetable matt] conta9$ 9 ! wool is c>boniz$ or burn$ to a crisp1 & on be+ slightly beat5 or %ak5 readily turns to du/4 ,?is du/ is remov$ f ! wool by v>i\s simple processes4 ,! c>boniz+ process 0 fir/ introduc$ 9 #ahge1 ?\gh x made b slight headway aga9/ ! old burr+ me?od until aft] #ahhj4 ,bl5d+4 ,pure wool ( b "o quality is n (t5 us$ 9 ! production ( wov5 fabrics1 s1 be=e ! raw mat]ial is ready = sp9n+ into y>n1 or = o!r processes by :i* x is work$ into useful =ms1 x is bl5d$4 ,wools are bl5d$ = _m reasons 7among :i* *eapness figures prom95tly71 ! add$ mat]ials consi/+ usually ( %oddy1 mungo1 or extract fib]s4 ,ord9>ily1 h[ev]1 bl5d+ has = its object ! secur+ ( a desir$ quality or weight ( clo?4 ,! "q ( color1 z well z quality1 also det]m9es bl5d+ op]ations1 natural color$ wools be+ frequ5tly int]mix$ to obta9 p>ticul> %ades = dress goods1 twe$s1 knitt+ y>ns1 etc4 ,/ock dy$ wools are also bl5d$ = ! production ( mix$ colors1 z br[ns1 grays1 ,ox=ds1 etc4 ,!re is practically no limit to ! v>iety ( %ades & t9ts obta9able by mix+ two or m colors ( wool toge!r4 ,! v>i\s quantities ( wool to be bl5d$ are spread out 9 due proportion 9 ! =m ( ?9 lay]s1 "o on top ( ! o!r1 & !n pass$ ?r\gh a ma*9e call$ ! teas]4 ,! teas] consi/s ( a comb9ation ( l>ge & small roll]s1 ?ickly /udd$ ) small p9s1 :i* op5 ! wool1 pull x ap>t1 & ?or\ghly int]mix x4 ,a bla/ ( air con/antly plays ^u ! wool 9 ! teas] & aids ! spikes & p9s 9 op5+ out ! fib]s4 ,! mat]ial is subject$ to ?is op]ation sev]al times & is f9ally deliv]$ 9 a s(t1 fleecy condition1 ready to be spun into y>n4 ,,footnotes3 #aj ,sk9s4 #aa ,a wire cage enclos$ 9 a metallic %ell :i* revolves at a high spe$ caus+ sixty or sev5ty p] c5t ( ! moi/ure to be remov$4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,wool ,,sub/itutes ,,& ,,wa/e ,,products ,remanufactur$ wool sub/itutes are ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( wool5 & wor/$ goods4 ,!re is no ne$ = ! prejudice t is sometimes met reg>d+ ^! reclaim$ mat]ials1 = by _! use millions ( p are w>mly & *eaply clo!d4 ,if ! imm5se quantity ( ^! mat]ials 7 wa/$1 c\ntless p]sons w\ld be unable to af=d prop] clo?+1 z x is difficult to e/imate :at ! price ( wool w\ld be2 & x is also d\btful if a suffici5t quantity c\ld be produc$ to supply ! ne$4 ,9 almo/ all in/ances ! use ( wool sub/itutes is = ! special purpose ( produc+ clo?s at a mu* l[] price4 ,! clo?s made f wa/e products1 su* z noils1 are n mu* inf]ior 9 quality to ^? produc$ f ! wool f :i* ! noils are obta9$2 b ! great majority ( clo?s made f o!r wa/e products are mu* inf]ior4 ,! foll[+ are ! mo/ important sub/itutes3 noils1 %oddy1 mungo1 extract-wool1 & flocks4 ,noils are ! reject$ fib]s f ! process ( comb+ ! diff]5t wools & hairs2 ?us1 wool noils are f ! %eep1 mohair noils f ! ,angora goat1 & alpaca noils f ! ,p]uvian %eep4 ,noils are divid$ into classes1 namely1 long-wool noils1 %ort or f9e-wool noils1 mohair noils1 & alpaca noils4 ,!y are all obta9$ 9 ! process ( comb+1 t is1 ! process :i* sep>ates ! long f ! %ort fib]s2 ! =m] are kn[n z ! top1 & are us$ 9 wor/$ & 9 ! production ( mohair & alpaca y>ns2 :ile ! latt] are us$ to advantage 9 ! production ( _m diff]5t k9ds ( wool5 fabrics4 ,) ! exception ( l5g?1 noils are practically ( ! same quality z ! tops f :i* !y are tak54 ,long-wool noils are f ! comb+s ( su* wools z ,leice/] & simil> wools4 ,^! noils1 l ! wool f :i* !y are obta9$1 are mu* co>s] 9 quality & fib] ?an ! %ort-wool noils4 ,occasionally1 :5 /r5g? is requir$ 9 ! fabric1 ^! noils are us$1 & !y are also mix$ ) %ort-wool noils4 ,_m ( ! *eviot fabrics are made exclusively ( ^! noils4 ,!y are also mix$ ) %oddy & cotton 9 ! production ( d>k-color$ fabrics1 & 9 m$ium & l[-pric$ goods requir+ a fibr\s appe>ance !y are extremely useful4 ,%ort or f9e-wool noils are ! mo/ valuable1 & are obta9$ f comb+ ,au/ralian & o!r f9e wools4 ,! numb] & v>iety ( uses to :i* !y are put are innum]able4 ,!y are us$ to advantage 9 ! pla9 & fancy wool5 trade1 9 ! manufacture ( %awls & pla9 wool5s ( a s(t nature1 & are also suitable = mix+ ) cotton 9 ! production ( twi/ ?reads4 ,mohair & alpaca noils are obta9$ by ! comb+ ( ^! mat]ials4 ,!y are lack+ 9 felt+ prop]ties1 b are lu/r\s & possess /r5g?1 & are mo/ valuable 9 ! manufacture ( fabrics :]e /r5g? & lu/] are requir$4 ,^! noils are us$ 9 ! production ( y>ns = ,kidd]m9/] c>pets1 z y>ns = ^! c>pets mu/ possess /r5g?1 brightness1 & ?ickness ( fib]4 ,!y are also us$ 9 comb9ation ) %oddy & cotton to produce weft or fill+ y>ns = a l[] quality ( goods4 ,%oddy & ,mungo are 9 reality wool products1 or wool fib] :i* has previ\sly pass$ ?r\gh ! processes ( manufacture :]eby its physical /ructure has be5 consid]ably mutilat$4 ,^! 7 fir/ produc$ ab\t sixty ye>s ago4 ,%oddy is high] 9 value ?an mungo4 ,! value & quality ( ! wa/e or rags f :i* x is made det]m9e ! quality or value ( ! mat]ial4 ,%oddy is d]iv$ f wa/e or rags ( pure unmill$ wool5s1 su* z flannels1 wraps1 /ock+s1 & all k9ds ( s(t goods4 ,mungo is made f rags ( h>d or mill$ "* & is mu* %ort] 9 fib] ?an %oddy4 ,its l5g?1 v>y+ f "o-qu>t] to ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in*1 c be regulat$ by ! treatm5t ! rags receive1 & by ! prop] sett+ ( ! roll]s 9 ! gr9d+ ma*9e4 ,bo? %oddy & mungo may be divid$ into classes4 ,mungo is divid$ into two classes1 namely1 new & old mungo4 ,new mungo is made f rags *iefly compos$ ( tailor's clipp+s1 unus$ patt]n-room clipp+s1 etc4 ,old mungo is made f ca/-(f g>m5ts1 etc4 ,by a c>eful selection ( ! rags previ\s to gr9d+1 x is possible to make a l>ge numb] ( qualities1 & a great v>iety ( colors & %ades )\t dye+4 ,ow+ to _! *eapness %oddy & mungo are us$ 9 clo?s ( l[ & m$ium qualities4 ,%oddies are utiliz$ 9 fabrics ( ! *eviot class & 9 ! production ( back+ y>ns4 ,mungoes ( ! be/ quality are us$ 9 ! l[ fancy twe$ trade1 9 bo? w>p & weft1 b *iefly 9 union & back$ fabrics4 ,me?od ( ,produc+ ,%oddy & ,mungo4 ,be=e ! fibr\s mungo is obta9$1 ! rags h to pass ?r\gh ! foll[+ necess>y prelim9>y op]ations3 ,a4 ,du/+4 ,?is is c>ri$ on 9 a %ak+ ma*9e1 :i* consi/s ( a cyl9d] possess+ long & /rong spikes1 :i* are enclos$1 hav+ und]nea? a grat+ to all[ ! du/ to pass ?r\gh4 ,! du/ is !n driv5 by a fan into a receptacle provid$ = t purpose4 ,b4 ,sort+4 ,all rags1 bo? old & new1 mu/ be sort$1 & consid]able c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ?is op]ation1 z on ?is "w alone dep5ds ! obta9+ ( diff]5t qualities & %ades1 z well z ! secur+ ( ! production ( a regul> & uni=m product4 ,c4 ,seam+4 ,?is is only necess>y ) ! rags procur$ f g>m5ts4 ,x is simply remov+ ! cotton ?reads f ! seams1 & any metallic or h>d sub/ances f ! rags4 ,d4 ,oil+4 ,! rags are oil$ to s(t5 !m & make !m m pliable1 & ?us to facilitate ! gr9d+4 ,e4 ,gr9d+4 ,?is is ! pr9cipal op]ation1 & ! rags are made fibr\s 9 ?is process4 ,! ma*9e by :i* ?is is effect$ is made up ( ! foll[+ p>ts3 fe$ apron1 flut$ roll]s1 swift1 & a funnel = convey+ ! mat]ial out ( ! ma*9e4 ,! pr9cipal features ( ! ma*9e are ! swift & its spe$4 ,! swift is enclos$ 9 a framework1 & is ab\t =ty-two in*es 9 diamet] & eighte5 in*es wide1 ?us possess+ a surface area ( #b1cgf squ>e in*es1 conta9+ f #ab1jjj to #ad1jjj f9e /rong iron spikes4 ,! spe$ ( ! swift may be f #fjj to #hjj revolutions p] m9ute4 ,! rags are f$ by plac+ !m on ! travel+ fe$ apron1 & are ?us convey$ to ! flut$ roll]s4 ,z !y em]ge f ! roll]s !y are pres5t$ to ! swift1 & by /rong iron tee?1 mov+ ) exce$+ly high surface velocity1 !y are torn ?read f ?read & fib] f fib]4 ,! flut$ roll]s run v sl[ly1 & ! rags are held :ile ! swift c>ries out ?is op]ation4 ,by means ( ! /rong curr5t ( air creat$ by ! high spe$ ( ! swift1 ! mungo is expell$ f ! ma*9e ?r\gh ! funnel into a specially arrang$ receptacle4 ,if by any *ance ! ma*9e %\ld be ov]*>g$1 t is1 if too _m rags are pass+ ?r\gh ! roll]s1 ! top flut$ roll] is rais$ up1 & ! rags are simply c>ri$1 or ?r[n by ! swift1 ov] into a box on ! opposite side ( ! ma*9e )\t be+ subject$ to ! te>+ process4 ,! top roll] is weight$ by lev]s ) weights atta*$ to keep x 9 position1 ?us br++ d[nw>d pressure to be> ^u x1 z x is driv5 simply by friction4 ,by ! adju/m5t ( ! fe$ roll]s 9 relation to ! swift1 ! l5g? ( ! fib] may be v>i$ to a small degree4 ,extract ,wool4 ,?is is obta9$ f union clo?s1 t is1 f clo?s hav+ a wool weft & w>p ( cotton1 etc41 also f clo?s hav+ ! same mat]ial = w>p1 b possess+ a wool5 or mungo w>p or fill+1 etc4 ,x is ! wool fib] t is requir$4 ,!re=e ! vegetable matt] 7cotton7 mu/ be extract$ f x by ! process ( c>boniz+4 ,to effect ?is1 ! tissue or rags are /eep$ 9 a solution ( sulphuric acid & wat] & !n subject$ to heat 9 an enclos$ room4 ,! wat] is evaporat$1 leav+ ! acid 9 a conc5trat$ =m1 :i* acts ^u ! cotton1 conv]t+ x into p[d]4 ,! p[d] readily becomes sep>at$1 & ?us ! cotton is elim9at$4 ,! mat]ial t is left is well wa%$ to remove all acid1 dri$1 & !n pass$ ?r\gh a m9iature c>d]1 to imp>t to x ! appe>ance ( a woolly & a s(t] fabric4 ,flocks4 ,^! are ( ?ree k9ds1 & are wa/e products ( ! mill+1 cropp+1 & rais+ op]ations4 ,! mo/ valuable are ^? d]iv$ f ! full+ mill1 be+ clean & ( a bright color4 ,!y are *iefly us$ by sail sp9n]s1 & 9 ! manufacture ( l[ grade clo?s ( a *eviot class4 ,:ite flocks are suitable = bl5d+ ) wool1 & z a rule comm& a fair price4 ,rais+ flocks are ^? obta9$ f ! dress+ or rais+ gigs1 & are appli$ to purposes simil> to ^? = :i* full+ flocks are us$4 ,cutt+ or cropp+ flocks are ! %ort fib]s :i* are remov$ f ! clo?s 9 ?is op]ation4 ,!y are practically ( no value to ! textile manufactur]1 be+ unfit = y>n production1 b are us$ *iefly by wall-pap] manufactur]s 9 produc+ flock-pap]s1 :i* are pap]s ) rais$ figures resembl+ clo?1 made ( poor wool1 & atta*$ ) a gluey v>ni%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,c>d ,,room #a4 ,automatic ,fe$4 #b4 ,bur ,gu>ds4 #c4 ,bur ,tray4 #d4 #a/ ,top ,divid]4 #e4 #b;d ,top ,divid]4 #f4 ,work]s4 #g4 ,/ripp]s4 #h4 ,d(f] ,cyl9d]4 #i4 ,ma9 ,cyl9d]s4 #aj4 ,ma9 ,c>d ,drive on #b;d ,ma9 ,cyl9d] ,%aft4 #aa4 #a/ ,lick]94 #ab4 #b;d ,lick]94 #ac4 #c;d ,lick]94 #ad4 #d? ,lick]94 #ae4 ,fancy ,hood4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,wor/$ ,,y>ns ,c>d+4 ,aft] ! wool is wa%$ x und]goes a numb] ( op]ations be=e x is f9i%$ into wor/$ or wool5 y>n4#ab ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! manufactur+ ( wor/$ y>n is to pass ! wa%$ wool ?r\gh a wor/$ c>d :i* consi/s ( a numb] ( cyl9d]s cov]$ ) f9e wire tee? m\nt$ on a frame4 ,! effect ( ^! cyl9d]s on ! wool is to dis5gage ! wool fib]s1 make !m /raight1 & =m a sliv] or /r&4 ,x is n[ ready = ! comb+ ma*9e4 ,comb+4 ,! process ( comb+ consi/s ( subject+ ! c>d sliv] to ! op]ations ( ! automatic wool comb]1 :i* /raight5s ! fib]s & removes all %ort & tuft$ pieces ( wool4 ,comb+ is a gu>antee t e fib] ( ! wool lies p]fectly /raight1 & t all fib]s foll[ "o aft] ! o!r 9 regul> ord]4 ,comb4 ,a comb is a complicat$ ma*9e4 ,! pr9cipal feature is a l>ge metal r+ ) r[s ( f9e /eel p9s 7p9 circles71 :i* is made to revolve horizontally )9 ! ma*9e4 ,by v>i\s devices ! wool is f$ into ! tee? ( ! r+ 9 ! =m ( tufts4 ,! fib]s ( ! tufts by an intricate process are sep>at$ into long & %ort l5g?s1 & a set ( roll]s draws ea* out sep>ately & w9ds x into a cont9u\s /r& call$ tops4 ,on leav+ ! comb]1 ! wool is free f %ort fib]s1 specks1 & =eign sub/ances1 & pres5ts a f9e1 fl[+1 & lu/r\s appe>ance4 ,! %ort comb$-out wool is call$ noils1 & is us$ 9 mak+ c>pet y>ns1 gr\nd up into %oddy /ock1 or utiliz$ 9 sp9n+ fancy y>ns4 ,wor/$ ,tops4 ,am]ican textile manufactur]s are f9d+ x advantage\s to h _! comb+ done by ^? :o make ! "w a specialty r ?an to d x !mselves4 ,9 ! manufacture ( tops all v>ieties ( comb+ wools are us$3 ,au/ralian1 ,m]9o1 & ,crossbr$ wools1 ,s\? ,am]ican ,m]9o & ,crossbr$ wools1 ,cape ,m]9o wools1 ,m]9o & ,crossbr$ wools gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 ! lu/r\s wools ( pure ,engli% blood1 ,mohair f ,asiatic ,turkey1 & ,alpaca f ! ,&es4 ,tops are sold to wor/$ sp9n]ies4#ac ,_m mills or wor/$ sp9n]ies s5d _! wools1 ei!r sort$ or unsort$ z !y may desire1 to a comb+ mill1 :]e ! wool is put into top at a l[] price ?an t at :i* mo/ sp9n]ies c d _! own comb+4 ,by means ( ! naph?a process a l>g] am\nt ( top f a giv5 am\nt ( wool c be secur$ ?an by any o!r process1 & 9 addition1 a top 9 bett] condition = draw+ & sp9n+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,comb ,,room #a4 ,driv+ pulley on horizontal %aft 7#b74 #c4 ,boxes conta9+ bevel ge>s4 #d4 ,pill>s4 #e4 ,driv+ pulley = dabb+ motion4 #f4 ,boxes conta9+ dabb+-bru% me*anism4 #g4 ,dabb+ bru%es4 #h4 ,/> or /rok] :eels4 #i4 ,l>ge circle conta9+ r[s ( p9s4 #aj4 ,draw+-(f apron & roll]s = l>ge circle4 #aa4 ,brass boxes or conductors4 #ab4 ,guides = comb ball ends4 #ac4 ,comb balls 7#d ends ea*74 #ad4 ,flut$ wood5 roll]s on :i* comb balls re/4 #ae4 ,comb leg 7#d 9 numb]74 #af4 ,f\ndation plate4 ,9 a /r& ( comb$ wool1 call$ top1 no s+le fib] lies across ! /r&2 all lie 9 ! direction ( ! l5g?4 ,?is ord] is pres]v$ until ! fib]s h be5 conv]t$ into y>n1 :i* is accompli%$ by pass+ ?r\gh gill boxes4 ,^! gill boxes are ma*9es ) b>s ( iron hav+ ^u _! surface two r[s ( m9ute /eel p9s1 by ?is means kept p]fectly /raight4 ,! b>s on :i* !y are plac$ are work$ on screws betwe5 two sets ( roll]s4 ,! wool ent]s betwe5 ! fir/ set ( roll]s1 &1 z x passes ?r\gh1 is caught by "o ( ^! gills t is rais$ up = ! purpose1 be+ succe$$ by o!rs z ! roll]s revolve4 ,^! gills are mov$ =w>d on screws 9 ! direction ( ! o!r set ( roll]s1 & ! p9s 9 ! gills always keep ! fib] p]fectly /raight4 ,! second set ( roll]s is t]m$ ! draught roll]s1 s9ce by !m ! wool1 aft] pass+ ?r\gh ! front roll]s1 is drawn out & r$uc$ 9 ?ickness4 ,?is is accompli%$ because ! second roll]s revolve at a high] rate ( spe$ ?an ! fir/ roll]s1 ! spe$ be+ regulat$ accord+ to ! l5g? ( ! wool1 & ! ?ickness ( ! y>n to be produc$4 ,^! gills are us$ 9 ! production ( wor/$ y>n until ! size ( ! rope ( wool has be5 s r$uc$ & twi/$ t !re is no *ance ( any fib] gett+ cross$ or out ( ! ord] ( /raightness4 ,a wor/$ y>n is1 consequ5tly1 a /raight y>n1 or a y>n produc$ f p]fectly /raight fib]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,gill+ #a4 ,cans conta9+ ,comb ,ends or ,sliv]4 #b4 ,ball+ ,head4 #c4 ,/ock f ,ball+ ,head ,no4 #b4 #d4 ,screws = apply+ pressure to ,back ,roll]s4 #e4 ,screws = apply+ pressure to ,front ,roll]s4 #f4 ,fall] ,screws situat$ betwe5 ,no4 #d & ,no4 #e4 #g4 ,gu>d = cov]+ ge>s :i* drive ,back ,roll]s4 #h4 ,gu>d cov]+ ge>s :i* drive ,ball+ ,head4 #i4 ,ball+ ,head4 ,! comb+ ( wool may be disp5s$ ) 9 "s cases1 al?\gh su* a y>n is n 9 common use4 ,:5 comb+ is disp5s$ )1 ! gills1 9 connection ) ! draught ( ! roll]s1 make ! fib]s /raight1 & produce a wor/$ y>n1 al?\gh su* a y>n has a t5d5cy to be unev5 & knotty4 ,be=e ! wool c be spun x mu/ be made into rov+ ( a suitable ?ickness4 ,?is is done by pass+ x1 aft] be+ comb$1 ?r\gh a s]ies ( op]ations t]m$ draw+1 ^: functions are to produce a gradual r$uction 9 ?ickness at ea* /age4 ,al?\gh ! numb] ( ma*9es v>ies accord+ to ! k9d ( wool to be treat$1 /ill ! same pr9ciple applies to all4 ,sp9n+4 ,! process ( sp9n+ is ! la/ 9 ! =mation ( y>n or ?read1 ! subsequ5t op]ations hav+ = _! object ! /r5g!n+ ( ! y>n by comb9+ two or m /r&s & aft]w>d arrang+ !m = weav+ or = ! purpose = :i* ! y>n is requir$4 ,x is also ! la/ "t t ! fib]s are me*anically drawn ov] ea* o!r or draft$1 & ?is is inv>iably done f a s+le rov+4 ,! humidity & temp]ature ( ! sp9n+ room mu/ be adju/$ to conditions4 ,ea* sp9n] is provid$ ) a wet & dry !rmomet] s t ! be/ temp]ature c be asc]ta9$4 ,! mo/ suitable heat & humidity c only be obta9$ by comp>ison & obs]vation4 ,a dry & w>m atmosph]e causes ! wool to become *>g$ ) electricity & !n ! fib]s repel ea* o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wor/$ ,,sp9n+4 ,,brad=d ,,sy/em #a4 ,bobb9s conta9+ ,wor/$ ,y>n4 #b4 ,conical %ape caps plac$ on top ( sp9dles4 #c4 ,t9 ,w+s fa/5$ to ,eyebo>d4 #d4 ,eyebo>d conta9+ pot eyes1 ?r\gh :i* y>n passes to ! bobb94 #e4 ,scrat* flut$ front roll]s4 #f4 ,lea!r cov]$ ,press+ ,roll]s = ,no4 #e ,roll]s4 #g4 ,smoo? metal ,press+ ,roll]s = ,back ,roll]s4 #h4 ,l>ge ,front ,roll] ,ge>4 #i4 ,pulley = driv+ ,twi/ ge>4 #aj4 ,spools ( ,rov+ held by a s]ies ( pegs4 #aa4 ,sp9dle b&s4 #ab4 ,sift] plate or rail4 ,wor/$ y>n is spun by two diff]5t me?ods kn[n respectively z ! ,brad=d or ,engli% sy/em & ! ,fr5* sy/em4 ,! diff]5ce 9 ^! sy/ems ( sp9n+ wor/$s lies pr9cipally 9 ! draw+ & sp9n+ processes1 a radically diff]5t class ( ma*9]y be+ us$ = ea*4 ,! comb+ process is practically ! same 9 bo? cases1 b ! wool is comb$ dry = ! ,fr5* sy/em1 & by ! ,engli% me?od ! /ock is ?or\ghly oil$ be=e be+ comb$4 ,! result ( ! ,engli% me?od is ! production ( a smoo? level y>n 9 :i* ! fib]s lie ne>ly p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,! y>n made accord+ to ! ,fr5* sy/em is some:at fuzzi] & m woolly4 ,on acc\nt ( ! abs5ce ( oil1 ! %r9kage ( ,fr5* spun wor/$ is consid]ably less ?an t made by ! ,brad=d sy/em4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,wor/$ ,y>n4 ,! unique /ructure ( wor/$ y>n makes x invaluable 9 ! production ( textile fabrics 9 :i* lu/] & uni=mity ( surface are ! *ief *>act]i/ics4 ,! me?ods by :i* wor/$ is =m$ r5d] x capable ( su/a9+ m t5sion 9 proportion to its size ?an ! pure wool5 y>n4 ,?is feature1 comb9$ ) its lu/r\s quality1 gives x a pre-em95t position 9 ! manufacture ( f9e coat+s1 dress goods1 etc4 ,! me?od ( arrang+ ! fib]s 9 ! =mation ( a wool5 y>n is su* z to produce a /r& ) a some:at indef9ite & fibr\s surface1 :i* de/roys to a l>ge degree ! cle>ness ( ! patt]n effect 9 ! wov5 piece4 ,9 ! con/ruction ( wor/$ y>n ! fib]s are arrang$ 9 a p>allel relation%ip to ea* o!r1 result+ 9 ! production ( a smoo?1 h>d y>n hav+ a well-def9$ surface2 h5ce weave-ornam5tation ( a decid$ or m>k$ type is possible by its use4 ,!re is1 9 a ^w1 m scope = patt]n effects1 s9ce ! level & regul> /ructure ( ! y>n imp>ts a di/9ction to e "p ( a wov5 design4 ,f ?is peculi>ity arises ! great v>iety ( effects se5 9 ! wor/$ dress fabrics1 coat+s1 tr\s]+s1 etc41 bo? 9 color$ patt]ns & 9 fabrics ( "o %ade ?r\gh\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,spool ,,room #a4 ,jack ,spool] frame4 #b4 ,drum ^u :i* ,jack ,spool re/s4 #c4 ,jack ,spool4 #d4 ,guides = spool ends4 #e4 ,spools conta9+ y>n4 #f4 ,press]s :i* re/ on spools to prev5t slack ends4 #g4 ,spool creel4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fr5* ,,sp9n+ #a4 ,ball+ heads4 #b4 ,bobb9s ^u :i* /ock is w\nd4 #c4 ,rub or cond5s] aprons4 #d4 ,ge>+ = driv+ rub motion4 #e4 ,%ipp] rod & h&les4 #f4 ,bobb9s held 9 place 9 creel by skew]s4 #g4 ,weights ) sy/em ( lev]s = apply+ pressure to roll]s4 ,wor/$ y>n c be made ( pure wool2 & z a rule1 ! wool us$ 9 ! ,engli% sy/em is ( fairly good l5g? & uni=m /aple1 = if o!rwise x is only ) difficulty t ! y>n c be spun /raight4 ,%ort] wool c be comb$ & spun "u ! ,fr5* sy/em1 & ?is is ! reason :y ! ,fr5* sy/em ( sp9n+ is be+ introduc$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 9 ! sp9n+ ( wool5 y>ns great l5g? ( /aple is n ess5tial1 = ! ma*9]y employ$ w "w ! small fib]s4 ,uses ( ,wor/$ ,y>n4 ,wor/$ y>n may be us$ 9 any ( ! foll[+ fabrics3 #a4 ,comb$ wool y>n = ornam5tal ne$lework & knitt+1 z ,b]l91 ,zephyr1 & ,saxony wools4 #b4 ,clo? made f comb$ wool n classifi$ accord+ to mat]ial4 a4 ,fabrics ( all wool--s]ge1 bunt+1 rep1 dress goods1 ) weave effects4 b4 ,wool & ,cotton--union goods1 s]ge l9+s1 la?+4 c4 ,wool & ,silk--ri* popl91 pongee1 h5rietta1 bombaz9e4 d4 ,alpaca & ,mohair--alpaca1 mohair dress goods1 lu/]s1 braids1 laces4 ,c\nts4 ,y>n is measur$ by a sy/em ( c\nts--! numb] ( y>ds ( y>n to ! p\nd4 ,! c\nts ( wor/$ y>n are bas$ on ! numb] ( hanks 9 "o p\nd1 ea* hank conta9+ #efj y>ds4 ,?us ,no4 #cj wor/$ y>n consi/s ( #cj hanks ( #efj y>ds ea*1 or #af1hjj y>ds to ! p\nd4 ,,footnotes3 #ab ,! di/9ct diff]5ce betwe5 wor/$ & wool5 y>ns is t wor/$ y>n is made ( fib]s t are p>allel1 :ile ! fib]s ( wool5 y>n run 9 all directions4 ,! wor/$ y>n is /rong]4 #ac ,mills t manufacture wor/$ y>n4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,wool5 ,,y>n ,9 manufactur+ wor/$ y>n e necess>y op]ation is p]=m$ to arrange ! wool fib]s s t !y w lie smoo?ly & p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,9 ! case ( wool5 y>n e op]ation is p]=m$ s z to h ! fib]s lie 9 e direction & to cross & ov]lap ea* o!r4 ,to produce y>n ( ! wool5 type a set ( ma*9]y entirely diff]5t f t us$ 9 wor/$ manufacture is necess>y4 ,! wool is c>d$1 b no attempt is made to get ! fib]s p>allel4 ,! r$uction 9 ?ickness ( ! sliv] is n br\ght ab\t ^u ! s-call$ draw+ frame1 b by a mule frame :]e ! draw+ & twi/+ are done at ! same op]ation4 ,z nei!r combs nor gills are employ$1 !re is n ! same smoo?1 level y>n1 b "o :i* possesses a fr+e-l cov]+ or fuzzy appe>ance t makes ! wool5 y>n s valuable4 ,! op]ation is z foll[s3 ,c>d+4 ,aft] wa%+ ! mat]ial = wool5 y>n1 x is pass$ ?r\gh ?ree c>d+ processes1 & f ! la/ ( !m is tak5 direct to ! sp9n+ frame to be made into y>n4 ,! object ( wool5 c>d+ is diff]5t f c>d+ 9 any o!r textile manufacture4 ,9 mo/ processes ( c>d+ ! fib]s are subject$ to a comb+ pr9ciple1 & ! aim is to lay ! fib]s p>allel4 ,wool5 c>d+ aims to op5 ! raw wool fib]1 & put x 9 a p]fectly loose condition1 )\t lean+ t[>d any def9ite arrangem5t4 ,! c>d+ ma*9es are call$1 respectively1 fir/1 second1 & ?ird break]4 ,ea* ma*9e consi/s ( a complicat$ s]ies ( c>d-cov]$ cyl9d]s ( diff]5t sizes1 runn+ at diff]5t rates ( spe$--sometimes 9 ! same & sometimes 9 an opposite direction4 ,^! roll]s take ! wool f "o ano!r 9 regul> ord] until x is f9ally deliv]$ f ! ?ird break] 9 a s(t1 fluffy rope or roll call$ a sliv]4 ,?is sliv] is w\nd on a bobb91 & tak5 f ! c>d to ! mule sp9n+ frame4 ,! sliv] on ! bobb9s f ! c>d is tak5 to ! mule sp9n+ frame :]e x is pass$ ?r\gh rolls1 & ! sliv] att5uat$ by means ( a travel+ c>riage4 ,c\nt4 ,9 ! case ( wool5 y>n !re are num]\s sy/ems = d5ot+ ! c\nt1 v>y+ ) ! locality 9 :i* x is spun & ! "* ( ! product4 ,9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates !re are two sy/ems employ$1 b ! "o 9 mo/ g5]al use is kn[n z ,am]ican run c\nts4 ,?is is bas$ on ! numb] ( runs1 ea* conta9+ #a1fjj y>ds to ! p\nd4 ,?us1 a y>n runn+ #h1jjj y>ds to ! p\nd is call$ a #e run y>n1 a y>n ) #e1bjj y>ds to ! p\nd is equal to a #c-a_/d run4 ,9 ! vic9ity ( ,philadelphia wool5 y>n is bas$ on ! cut1 ea* cut consi/+ ( #cjj y>ds1 & ! c\nt is ! numb] ( cuts 9 a p\nd4 ,?us1 ,no4 #cj cut y>n consi/s ( #i1jjj y>ds to ! p\nd4 ,no4 #ae conta9s #d1ejj y>ds to ! p\nd4 ,wool5 y>n is suitable = clo?s 9 :i* ! color+s are bl5d$ & ! fib]s napp$1 z exemplifi$ 9 twe$1 *eviot1 doesk91 broadclo?1 beav]1 frieze1 *9*illa1 blanket1 & flannel4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,weav+ ,prep>atory to ,weav+4 ,y>n is w\nd on bobb9s on ! r+ or mule sp9n+ frame4 ,^! bobb9s are transf]r$ to a ma*9e call$ a spool] :]e ! y>n is re-w\nd on a spool prep>atory to mak+ ! w>p4 ,a w>p is =m$ by obta9+ a def9ite numb] ( ?reads 7call$ ends71 usually 9 a precisely design$ ord] ( giv5 l5g?1 & all[+ ! ends to w9d ov] a cyl9d] call$ a beam4 ,9 ord] to d ?is x is necess>y to h spools plac$ 9 a def9ite position 9 a frame call$ a creel4 ,be=e ! w>p c be plac$ 9 ! loom s z to weave or int]lace x ) fill+ x mu/ be siz$4 ,?is is necess>y = all s+le twi/ w>p y>ns4 ,its prim>y object is to increase ! /r5g? & smoo?ness ( ! ?read1 ?us enabl+ x to )/& ! /ra9 & friction due to ! weav+ op]ation4 ,o!r objects ( siz+ are ! increase ( weight & bulk ( ! ?read & ! improvem5t & feel ( ! clo?4 ,! w>p is usually siz$ by pass+ x ov] a roll] & ?r\gh a ba? ( a />* mixture4 ,! ma*9e = siz+ is call$ a sla%]4 ,! w>p is n[ ready to h ! ends drawn 9 & plac$ 9 ! loom4 ,weav+4 ,e wov5 piece ( clo? is made up ( two di/9ct sy/ems ( ?reads1 kn[n z ! w>p & fill+ 7weft71 :i* are int]lac$ ) ea* o!r to =m a fabric4 ,! w>p ?reads run l5g?ways ( ! piece ( clo?1 & ! fill+ runs across f side to side4 ,! mann] 9 :i* ! w>p & fill+ ?reads int]lace ) ea* o!r is kn[n z ! weave4 ,:5 ! ^w end is us$ 9 connection ) weav+ x always signifies ! w>p ?read1 :ile ea* fill+ ?read is call$ a pick4 ,! f95ess ( ! clo? is always express$ z s _m picks & ends to ! in*4 ,! fabrics produc$ by weav+ are nam$ by ! manufactur]s or m]*ants :o introduce !m4 ,old fabrics are con/antly appe>+ "u new names1 usually ) "s slight modification to suit ! public ta/e4 ,weav+ ,processes4 ,9 ord] to und]/& ! diff]5t k9ds ( weaves x is necess>y to "k1 or at lea/ to und]/&1 ! process ( =m+ clo?1 call$ weav+4 ,?is is done 9 a ma*9e call$ a loom4 ,! pr9cipal p>ts ( a loom are ! frame1 ! w>p-beam1 ! clo?-roll1 ! h$dles1 & _! m\nt+1 ! re$4 ,! w>p-beam is a wood5 cyl9d] back ( ! loom on :i* ! w>p is w\nd4 ,! ?reads ( ! w>p ext5d 9 p>allel ord] f ! w>p-beam to ! front ( ! loom1 & are atta*$ to ! clo?-roll4 ,ea* ?read or gr\p ( ?reads ( ! w>p passes ?r\gh an op5+ 7eye7 ( a h$dle4 ,! w>p ?reads are sep>at$ by ! h$dles into two or m gr\ps1 ea* controll$ & automatically drawn up & d[n by ! motion ( ! h$dles4 ,9 ! case ( small patt]ns ! movem5t ( ! h$dles is controll$ by cams :i* move up ! h$dles by means ( a frame call$ a h>ness2 9 l>g] patt]ns ! h$dles are controll$ by h>ness cords atta*$ to a ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,e "t ! h>ness 7! h$dles7 moves up or d[n1 an op5+ 7%$7 is made betwe5 ! ?reads ( w>p1 ?r\gh :i* ! %uttle is ?r[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,simple ,,h&-,,loom ,%[+ frame1 w>p beam1 clo?-roll1 h$dles1 & re$ ,! fill+ ?read is w\nd on a bobb9 :i* is fa/5$ 9 ! %uttle & :i* p]mits ! y>n to unw9d z x passes to & fro4 ,z fa/ z ea* fill+ ?read is int]lac$ ) w>p x is press$ close to ! previ\s "o by means ( a re$ :i* advances t[>d & rec$es f ! clo? aft] ea* passage ( ! %uttle4 ,?is is done to make ! clo? firm4 ,!re are v>i\s movem5ts on ! loom = controll+ ! t5sion ( ! w>p1 = draw+ =w>d or tak+ up ! clo? z x is produc$1 & = /opp+ ! loom 9 ! case ( breakage ( ! w>p ?read or ! runn+ out ( ! fill+ ?read4 ,weav+ may be p]=m$ by h& 9 h&-looms or by /eam-p[] 9 p[]-looms1 b ! arrangem5ts = bo? are to a c]ta9 ext5t ! same4 ,a great numb] ( diff]5t k9ds ( p[]-looms are manufactur$ = produc+ ! v>i\s classes ( textiles 9 use at ! pres5t "t4 ,^! looms are di/+ui%$ by ! "n ( ! mat]ial :i* !y are design$ to weave1 z ! ribbon-loom1 blanket-loom1 burlaps- & sack+-loom1 plu%-loom1 d\ble-clo? loom1 rug-loom1 fancy cotton-loom1 silk-loom1 wor/$-loom1 etc4 ,weav+ is di/9ct f knitt+1 nett+1 loop+1 & braid+1 :i* are op]ations dep5d+ on ! int]lac+ ( a s+le ?read1 or s+le set ( ?reads1 :ile weav+ is done ) two di/9ct & sep>ate sets ( ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ma9 ,,weave ,,room #a4 ,w>p beam conta9+ w>p4 #b4 ,lease ,rods4 #c4 ,h>nesses4 #d4 ,dobby ,head motion to lift h>nesses4 #e4 ,jacqu>d ,head motion4 #f4 ,c>ds conta9+ design--work+ 9 connection ) ,jacqu>d ,head motion4 #g4 ,:ip ,roll4 ,classes ( ,weave4 ,! "* ( ! weave (f]s ! be/ basis = classification ( wov5 goods4 ,ne>ly all ! v>ieties ( clo? may be classifi$ f ! foll[+ weaves3 7#a7 ,pla9-weav+1 7#b7 ,twill-weav+1 7#c7 ,sat9-weav+1 7#d7 ,figure-weav+1 7#e7 ,d\ble-clo?-weav+1 7#f7 ,pile-weav+1 7#g7 ,gauze-weav+1 7#h7 ,lappet-weav+4 ,pla9 or ,homespun ,weave4 ,pla9 clo? is ! simple/ clo? t c be wov54 ,9 ?is weave "o s]ies ( ?reads 7fill+7 crosses ano!r s]ies 7w>p7 at "r angles1 pass+ ov] "o & "u "o 9 regul> ord]1 ?us =m+ a simple int]lacem5t ( ! ?reads4 ,?is comb9ation makes a /rong & firm clo?1 b does n give a close or a heavy fabric1 z ! ?reads d n lie z close & compact z !y d 9 o!r weaves4 ,9 pla9 clo?1 if n full$ or %runk 9 ! f9i%1 ! result is a fabric p]=at$ ) l>ge or small op5+s accord+ to ! size or twi/ ( y>n us$4 ,if heavy or co>se ?reads are us$ ! p]=ations w be l>ge2 if f9] ?reads1 ! p]=ations w be small]4 ,?is weave is us$ 9 ! production ( %eet+1 musl91 lawn1 g+ham1 broadclo?1 taffeta1 etc4 ,9 pla9 weav+ x is possible to produce /ripes by ! use ( b&s ( color$ w>p1 & *ecks :]e bo? w>p & weft are p>ti-color$4 ,?is weave is commonly us$ :5 ! clo? is int5d$ to be ornam5t$ ) pr9t$ patt]ns4 ,9 weav+ clo? ( only "o color b "o %uttle is us$1 :ile = ! production ( *ecks1 plaids1 etc41 two or m %uttles are requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,girl ,,draw+ ,,ea* ,,?read ,,( ,,w>p ,,?r\gh ,,! ,,re$ ,,& ,,h>ness ,,ready ,,to ,,be ,,plac$ ,,on ,,loom ,a1 w>p beam4 ,b1 w>p4 ,c1 h>ness frame ,twill ,weave4 ,a twill weave has diagonal l9es across ! clo?4 ,9 ?is class ( weaves ! fill+ y>n or ?reads pass ov] #a & "u #b1 or ov] #a & "u #c1 #d1 #e1 or #f1 or ov] #b or #c & "u #a1 #b1 #c1 or #d1 or ov] #d & "u #d1 #c1 #f1 etc4 ,ea* fill+ ?read does n pass "u & ov] ! same set ( w>p ?reads1 z ?is w\ld n give ! desir$ int]lac+s4 ,in/ead ! ord] ( int]lac+ moves "o ?read to ! "r or left ) ea* fill+ ?read t is wov54 ,if !re are ! same numb] ( ?reads to an in* 9 w>p & fill+1 twill l9es w =m an angle ( #de degrees2 if ! w>ps are clos] toge!r ?an ! fill+1 ! angle w be /eep]2 if ! fill+ ?reads are clos] toge!r ! l9es w approa* m ne>ly ! horizontal4 ,diff]5t effects are obta9$ 9 patt]ns by v>iation 9 ! sizes ( ! y>n & twi/1 by ! use ( heavy ?reads to =m cords1 ribs1 etc41 & by ! mixture ( v>i-color$ mat]ials 9 ! y>n4 ,(t5 "o =m ( twill-weave is comb9$ ) ano!r to produce a fancy twill-weave4 ,! object ( ! twill-weav+ is to increase ! bulk & /r5g? ( a fabric1 or to ornam5t x4 ,! disposition ( ! ?reads p]mits ! introduction ( m mat]ial into ! clo?1 & h5ce r5d]s x heavi]1 & ( clos] con/ruction ?an 9 ! case ( pla9-weav+4 ,sat9 ,weaves4 ,! object ( a sat9 weave is to di/ribute ! int]lac+s ( ! w>p & fill+ 9 su* a mann] t no trace ( ! diagonal 7twill7 l9e w be se5 on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,9 weav+ a sat9 design ! fill+ ?read is made to pass "u #a & ov] #d1 #g1 #i1 #aa1 or m if a l>g] plu% sat9 is requir$4 ,! rais+ ( ! w>p end to all[ ! fill+ to pass "u is done 9 su* a way z to prev5t twill l9es f %[+ 9 ! clo?4 ,! result is t practically all ( ! fill+ is on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,?is is call$ a fill+-face sat9 weave4 ,a w>p-face sat9 weave may be produc$ by rev]s+ ! ord]2 9 ?is case practically all ( ! w>p is br\ght to ! face ( ! clo?4 ,9 ?is way a wor/$ w>p & a cotton fill+ might be wov5 s t practically all ( ! w>p w\ld %[ on ! clo?1 & give x ! appe>ance ( a wor/$ fabric4 ,a numb] ( classes ( silk goods are made 9 ?is way1 ) a silk fill+ cov]+ a cotton w>p4 ,?is weave produces an ev51 close1 smoo? surface1 capable ( reflect+ ! light to ! be/ advantage1 & hav+ a lu/r\s appe>ance :i* makes x resemble sat9 clo?4 ,sat9 clo? is made ( silk us+ a sat9 weave4 ,sat9 weaves are us$ v l>gely 9 produc+ diff]5t /yles ( cotton & silk fabrics1 & are also frequ5tly f\nd 9 wool5 goods4 ,!y are m ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( damask & table-cov]s ?an = any o!r class ( goods4 ,sat9 /ripes are frequ5t 9 madras1 %irt+s1 & fancy dress goods 9 connection ) pla9 & figur$ weaves4 ,figure ,weav+4 ,to produce complicat$ & irregul> patt]ns 9 ! loom a l>ge numb] ( diff]5t op5+s 7%$s7 mu/ be made 9 ! w>p1 & to secure su* a l>ge numb] an atta*m5t is plac$ on top ( ! loom call$ a ,jacqu>d app>atus4 ,! ,jacqu>d is m]ely an app>atus = automatically select+ w>p ?reads1 by :i* ea* sep>ate "o c be made to move indep5d5tly ( any ( ! o!rs4 ,x is provid$ ) weight$ /r+s atta*$ to ea* ( ! w>p ?reads4 ,! weight$ /r+s are controll$ by wire ne$les :i* are 9 turn controll$ by p]=at$ c>ds4 ,ea* motion ( ! loom *anges _! position & all[s "s ne$les to g ?r\gh ! holes 9 ! c>ds1 ?us draw+ up ! w>p1 :ile o!rs /rike ! c>d & leave ! w>p d[n4 ,9 ?is way ! p]=ations ( ! c>ds det]m9e ! figure ( ! patt]ns4 ,! ,jacqu>d is *iefly us$ to produce patt]ns ( great wid? 9 :i* all or mo/ ( ! ?reads 9 ! patt]n move indep5d5tly4 ,= ! weav+ ( elaborate effects & fl[+ l9es x is practically indisp5sable4 ,all elaborate designs are class$ "u ! "n ( ,jacqu>ds4 ,d\ble ,clo?4 ,d\ble clo? is a descriptive t]m appli$ 9 weav+ to fabrics produc$ by comb9+ two s+le clo?s into "o4 ,ea* "o ( ^! s+le clo?s is con/ruct$ ) its own sy/ems ( w>p & fill+1 ! comb9ation be+ effect$ 9 ! loom by int]lac+ "s ( ! w>p or fill+ ?reads ( "o clo? into ! o!r clo? at c]ta9 int]vals1 ?us fa/5+ !m securely toge!r4 ,! reasons = mak+ d\ble-clo?s are _m4 ,sometimes x is done to r$uce ! co/ ( heavy weight fabrics by us+ *eap] mat]ials = ! clo? =m+ ! back2 aga9 x may be to produce d\ble-face fabric2 x all[s great fre$om = ! =mation ( color$ patt]ns :i* may or may n correspond 9 patt]n on bo? sides2 x is ! basis ( tubul> weav+ su* z is practis$ = mak+ pill[ cases1 pockets1 seamless gra9 bags1 etc42 m frequ5tly1 ! object is to increase ! bulk or /r5g? ( c]ta9 k9ds ( fabrics1 su* z heavy ov]coat+s1 cloak+s1 pile-fabrics1 golf-clo?1 ri* silk1 etc4 ,pile ,weave4 ,a pile weave is a g5]al t]m "u :i* are class$ num]\s v>ieties ( clo? wov5 ) a pile surface1 z plu%1 velvet1 velvete51 & c>pet+ ( v>i\s k9ds4 ,turki% t[els are an excell5t illu/ration ( pile weav+4 ,a pile surface is a closely set1 ela/ic face cov]+ v>i\s k9ds ( wool51 silk1 & cotton fabrics1 & consi/s ( ?reads /&+ close toge!r1 ei!r 9 ! =m ( loops or z erect ?read-ends %e>$ (f smoo? s z to =m a uni=m & ev5 surface4 ,9 ! production ( a pile fabric a ?ird ?read is introduc$ into ! weav+ & =m$ into loops usually by c>ry+ x ov] ! wires laid across ! bread? ( ! clo?4 ,! wires are aft]w>d drawn out1 leav+ ! loops /&+2 ! loops may !n be cut s z to =m a cut pile1 z 9 velvet & plu%1 or !y may be left 9 _! orig9al =m z 9 ,brussels c>pet & ,turki% t[els4 ,gauze ,weav+4 ,9 gauze weav+ all ! w>p ?reads are n p>allel to ea* o!r1 b are made to int]twi/ m or less among !mselves1 !reby favor+ ! production ( light1 op5 fabrics1 9 :i* _m ornam5tal lace-l comb9ations c be obta9$4 ,two sets ( w>p ?reads are us$1 "o be+ ! gr\nd w>p & ! o!r ! d\p+1 ! latt] p]=m+ ! entw9+ process4 ,gauze is especially *>act]iz$ by its op5ness & yields ! lighte/ & /ronge/ fabric ) ! lea/ mat]ial4 ,:5 gauze is comb9$ ) pla9 weav+ x is /yl$ l5o4 ,gauze fabrics are design$ = wom5's summ] g[ns1 fl\nces1 w9d[-curta9s1 etc4 ,lappet ,weav+4 ,lappet weav+1 really a =m ( embroid]y1 is us$ = produc+ small designs on clo? by means ( ne$les plac$ 9 a slid+-frame1 ! figures be+ /it*$ into ! w>p4 ,elaborate figures are beyond ! range ( lappet weav+1 b !re are _m small effects t c be economically produc$ 9 ?is mann]1 su* z ! deta*$ spots 9 dott$ swiss1 & n>r[ & cont9u\s figures runn+ m or less into /ripes4 ,?is =m ( weav+ imitates embroid]y & is us$ ma9ly on pla9 & gauze fabrics4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,dye+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ ,dye+4 ,:5 a fabric or fib] is impregnat$ ) a uni=m color ov] its :ole surface1 x is said to be simply dy$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if di/9ct patt]ns or designs 9 "o or m colors h be5 impress$ ^u a fabric1 x is call$ pr9t+4 ,vegetable dyes 7 =m]ly us$1 b s9ce ! coal t> dyes h be5 discov]$ ! latt] are us$ entirely4 ,ov] f\rte5 ?\s& colors h be5 produc$ f coal t>4 ,diff]5t fib]s & fabrics attract dye/uffs ) v>y+ degrees ( =ce4 ,wool & silk attract bett] ?an cotton & l954 ,wool ,dye+4 ,! me?ods ( dye+ wool diff] consid]ably f ^? employ$ = cotton & o!r vegetable fib]s4 ,!y may be divid$ into ?ree p>ts3 piece dy$1 cross dy$1 & y>n dy$4 ,piece goods are ^? wov5 ) y>ns 9 _! gray or natural /ate1 & !n cleans$ & dy$ 9 ! piece to su* colors z are requir$4 ,!y are wov5 9 pla9 weaves & 9 a great v>iety ( twills--9 fact1 9 all /yles ( weaves--& are also made on ! ,jacqu>d loom4 ,! pr9cipal fabrics 9 ?is classification are all wool s]ges1 *eviots1 hopsack+s1 suit+s1 sat9es1 prunellas1 :ipcords1 melroses1 ,v5etian broadclo?s1 zibel9es1 ra9pro( clo?s2 nun's veil+1 canvases1 gr5ad9es1 albatrosses1 crpes1 & ,fr5* flannels2 silk w>p ,h5riettas1 voiles1 & sublimes4 ,:5ev] x is possible1 x is bett] to dye textile fabrics 9 ! =m ( wov5 pieces ?an 9 ! y>n4 ,dur+ ! process ( weav+ x is impossible to avoid gett+ y>n dirty & some:at greasy1 & ! sc\r+ necess>y to remove ?is dirt impairs ! color us$ 9 weav+4 ,piece dye+ is ! *eape/ me?od ( apply+ color to textiles4 ,! *ief fault ( piece dye+ is ! dang] ( cl\d spots1 /a9s1 etc41 :i* d n appe> 9 ! o!r two me?ods4 ,!n aga9 9 ! case ( ?ick1 closely wov5 goods ! dye/uff does n p5etrate into ! fabric1 & ! int]ior rema9s ne>ly :ite4 ,! clo? is dy$ by means ( pass+ ov] a roll] into a dye vat4 ,small pieces or swat*es are tak5 f ! ends ( ! fabric1 & comp>$ ) ! patt]n4 ,= x mu/ be rememb]$ t no two lots ( crude dyes are ( equal /r5g?1 & ! wools & cottons ( diff]5t gr[?s & seasons v>y greatly1 s t ! use ( a fix$ quantity ( dye to a giv5 am\nt ( goods w n always give ! exact %ade4 ,9 comp>+ a sample ) ! patt]n ! two are plac$ side by side bel[ ! eyes 7reflect$ light71 & !n held up to ! light & ! eye direct$ along ! surface4 ,a judgm5t mu/ be =m$ quickly1 z a prolong$ gaze fatigues ! eye & r5d]s x unable to p]ceive f9e %ades ( diff]5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dye ,,room #a4 ,dye tub or vat conta9+ dye/uffs4 #b4 ,rolls or cyl9d]s ^u :i* clo? is w\nd4 #c4 ,clo? leav+ dye tub--be+ w\nd ^u ,no4 #b cyl9d]4 ,cross ,dy$4 ,cross-dy$ goods may be describ$ z fabrics wov5 ) black or color$ cotton w>ps & wool or wor/$ fill+ & aft]w>ds dy$ 9 ! piece4 ,s9ce cotton has n ! same attraction = dye/uffs z wool x is a difficult task to dye a fabric wov5 ) cotton & wool s t bo? fib]s w be id5tical 9 dep? ( color1 tone1 & brightness4 ,9 "s cases x is possible to dye a mix$ fabric at a s+le op]ation1 b ! usual process is to dye ! wool 9 y>n /ate & !n dye ! w>p a color z ne> ! color ( ! wool z possible4 ,9 ! weav+ op]ation ! wool is ?r[n to ! surface4 ,9 ano!r me?od ! w>p is dy$ & wov5 ) a :ite wool or wor/$ fill+1 & dy$ 9 ! piece ) a dye/uff t w n affect ! cotton4 ,9 ?is way ! cotton does n take ! wool dye1 b reta9s its orig9al color4 ,?is class ( "w is g5]ally us$ 9 mohair1 alpaca1 & lu/] fabrics1 because ! natural brilliancy ( ! lu/] wool1 alpaca1 or mohair 9 ! fill+ is n impair$ z w\ld be ! case if ! cotton 9 ! goods 7 subject$ to a cotton-dye ba? aft] be+ wov54 ,! pr9cipal clo?s 9 ?is classification are cotton1 w>p figur$ melroses1 ,flor5t9es1 glacs1 brilliant9es1 lu/]s1 alpacas1 & mohairs2 ra9pro( clo?s1 & fancy wai/+s1 & 9 ^! may be f\nd ! same great v>iety ( weaves & patt]ns t is to be f\nd 9 ! piece-dy$ goods already describ$4 ,y>n ,dy$4 ,y>n-dy$ goods diff] f ^? previ\sly describ$ 9 t !y are made ( y>ns t are dy$ be=e be+ wov51 or y>ns spun f dy$ wool4 ,wool may be dy$ 9 ! raw /ate 7fleece71 slubb+1 or y>n4 ,fleece dye+ is pref]able = goods int5d$ to /& friction1 & t 9 spite ( we> & te> mu/ pres]ve _! color4 ,x is pref]r$ = d>k color$ goods :]e mu* friction is to be enc\nt]$1 b is seldom us$ = light colors1 s9ce ^! w\ld be soil$ dur+ subsequ5t processes ( manufacture4 ,9 ?is case e fib] is color$ uni=mly all ov]4 ,! y>n f ?is wool & ! clo? wov5 f x are dy$ ?r\gh & ?r\gh & d n become grayi% or :iti% by we> & te>4 ,slubb+ dye+ is pref]r$ to y>n dye+1 = ! dye/uff p5etrates ! loosely twi/$ rov+1 & if unev5ly dy$1 ! subsequ5t op]ations equalize mo/ ?or\ghly ! irregul>ities 9 color4 ,y>n dye+ is especially applicable to *ecks1 plaids1 & suit+s1 & 9 _! manufacture ! drop box loom 7a loom ) two or m %uttles7 is us$4 ,goods manufactur$ "u ?is classification include cotton w>p *ecks & mixtures2 all wool homespuns1 mixture coat+s & suit+s1 /orm skirt+s1 ra9pro( clo?s4 ,^! goods are made 9 a great v>iety ( weaves1 ! effect 9 ea* be+ secur$ by ! color & ! weave4 ,piece-dy$ fabrics may be di/+ui%$ f y>n-dy$ fabrics by unravel+ ?reads ( ea* k9d4 ,9 ! case ( y>n-dy$ fabrics ! dye/uff has p5etrat$ ?r\gh ! y>n1 :ile 9 ! case ( piece-dy$ fabrics ! dye/uff has no *ance to p5etrate z completely z ! y>n-dy$ fabric4 ,textile ,pr9t+4 ,pr9t$ fabrics su* z pr9t clo?s c g5]ally be di/+ui%$ by obs]v+ ! back side ( ! clo?4 ,if ! figure or patt]n on ! face ( ! clo? does n p5etrate ?r\gh to ! back b only %[s ! outl9e1 ! fabric has be5 pr9t$4 ,fabrics are pr9t$ by com+ into contact ) rotat+ roll]s on :i* ! patt]n is engrav$4 ,! attraction ( cotton = color+ is g5]ally feebl] ?an t ( wool or silk4 ,few ( ! natural dye/uffs atta* !mselves p]man5tly )\t use ( a mordant4 ,a mordant is a sub/ance :i* has an aff9ity =1 or :i* c p5etrate1 ! fib] to be color$1 & :i* possesses ! p[] ( comb9+ ) ! dye/uff & ?us =m+ an insoluble comp\nd ^u ! fib]4 ,cotton is dy$ 9 an unspun /ate1 & also z y>n or spun ?read1 ei!r 9 ! hank or ske94 ,silk is dy$ 9 unspun ske9s1 al?\gh to a consid]able ext5t x is also dy$ 9 ! piece4 ,/yles4 ,s9ce /yles & designs are con/antly *ang+ x is necess>y = ! mills to meet ?is dem& by produc+ new /yles4 ,"s ( ! patt]ns :i* are at ?is "t consid]$ to be 9 ! be/ /yle w\ld h appe>$ mu* out ( date two or ?ree ye>s ago1 :ile p]haps a few ye>s h5ce1 ! patt]ns :i* are n[ almo/ obsolete w1 ) "s *anges1 become ! mo/ popul> sell]s ( ! season4 ,z ! mill (ficials or design]s are n out among ! trade1 !y are n 9 a position to judge :at l9es or patt]ns w\ld mo/ likely appeal to ! m>ket4 ,?is in=mation is obta9$ by ! /yl] ( ! sell+ h\se4 ,! /yl] receives all ! late/ =eign samples & fa%ion pap]s f abroad1 & (t5 goes or s5ds 8 repres5tative to ,europe to asc]ta9 :at goods1 designs1 & colors are tak+ well ov] !re4 ,! sell+ ag5t or /yl] !n supplies ! design+ dep>tm5t ( ! mill ) all ! samples1 in=mation1 & sugge/ions necess>y 9 gett+ out ! samples4 ,con/ruction ( ,clo?4 ,9 reproduc+ a sample ( clo? 9 ! mill x is necess>y t ! con/ruction ( ! clo? be fir/ kn[n1 t is1 !re mu/ be asc]ta9$ ! wid?1 w>p ends1 & picks p] in*1 ! numb] or size ( ! y>n us$ = ! w>p1 ! numb] t is us$ = ! fill+1 & ! numb] ( ounces p] y>d or y>ds p] p\nd4 ,!n ! int]lac+s ( ! ?reads 9 ! sample mu/ be pick$ out 9 ord] to get ! design or weave on ! design pap]1 f :i* ! data are obta9$ = regulat+ ! movem5t ( ! h>ness or h$dles4 ,design pap] is pap] rul$ by l9es into a numb] ( squ>es4 ,an imitation ( ! clo? c be produc$ on ?is pap] by %[+ ! int]lac+s ( ! w>p & fill+4 ,?is is done by fill+ 9 c]ta9 squ>es ) pa9t1 or p5cil m>ks1 :ile ! o!rs are left empty4 ,9 practical "w x is ! g5]al cu/om to make a cross ) a p5cil to indicate ! squ>es t are to be fill$ 91 ?us %[+ t ! w>p ?read is ov] ! fill+ ?read at ?is po9t4 ,:5 a squ>e is left blank x %[s t ! w>p ?read is "u ! fill+ at ?is po9t4 ,:5 a w>p ?read is up on a c]ta9 pick1 ! h>ness :i* controls ?is ?read mu/ be rais$ on ?is pick4 ,f9i%+4 ,! fabric z x comes f ! loom is 9 an imp]fect condition = use4 ,:5 wor/$ fabrics leave ! loom !y require b few & simple f9i%+ op]ations1 & 9 ?is respect diff] mu* f wool5 clo?s1 :i* require elaborate f9i%+ op]ations4 ,! f9i%+ processes ( wool5 & wor/$ clo?s are simil>4 ,! foll[+ description ( processes & ma*9es gives a cle> idea ( ! necess>y f9i%+ processes = a /&>d wool5 or wor/$ clo?2 = p>ticul> /yles ( f9i% ! processes mu/ be v>i$ 9 accordance ) ! p>ticul> requirem5ts ( ! /yle ( fabric 9 h&4 ,p]*+4 ,! fabric z x comes f ! loom receives a p]*+ & measur+ inspection at ! weave room be=e leav+ = ! f9i%+ room4 ,?is exam9ation is to detect quickly su* imp]fections z require prompt att5tion at ! loom4 ,burl+4 ,e knot t has be5 ti$ 9 ! ?reads dur+ w9d+1 dress+1 beam+1 & weav+1 mu/ be look$ = & felt = dur+ burl+1 c>efully drawn to ! surface ( ! clo?1 & !n clipp$ (f ) ! scissors1 leav+ ! ends long en\gh s t no space )\t a ?read w occur4 ,?reads :i* are f\nd loose on ! face or back ( clo?1 caus$ by ! weav] hav+ ti$ 9 a brok5 end1 %\ld be cut (f & n pull$ (f4 ,all places :]e ?reads are n wov5 9 are m>k$ s t ! sew+-9 girl 7m5d]7 c adju/ su* places4 ,! clo? is subject$ to p]*+ aga94 ,x is exam9$ = imp]fections1 & :5 ^! are f\nd1 !y are m>k$ ) *alk to call ! att5tion ( ! m5d]s to su* places4 ,m5d+4 ,! object ( d>n+ or m5d+ is to make all repairs 9 ! /ructure ( ! clo? be=e ! process ( full+4 ,! m5d] mu/ h a good eye = colors necess>y to produce v>i\s effects & = ! int]lac+ ( ! ?reads4 ,m exact "w is requir$ = ?readb>e fabrics t require little if any f9i%+ aft]w>d1 ?an 9 deal+ ) a face f9i% fabric1 :]e ! nap is to be rais$ & w cov] _m imp]fections s t !y w nev] be notic$ 9 ! f9i%$ clo?4 ,full+4 ,! object ( full+ is to r5d] wool5 & wor/$ goods /rong] & firm] 9 body4 ,full+ is simil> to felt+1 ! pr9cipal object ( ea* be+ to cond5se ! fib]s1 !reby increas+ ! firmness4 ,c]ta9 v>ieties ( wool5s are full$ ne>ly "o-half _! orig9al wid? & l5g?4 ,! process ( full+ includes ?ree /eps3 cleans+1 sc\r+1 & cond5s+ ! fib]s ( ! clo?4 ,! object ( sc\r+ is to get rid ( oil us$ prep>atory to sp9n+1 & to remove f ! clo? /a9s & ! siz+ us$ 9 dress+ ! w>p4 ,! clo? is fir/ saturat$ ) hot wat] & soap1 & is !n sc\r$ & rubb$ betwe5 ! sl[-revolv+ roll]s ( ! ma*9e f two to eighte5 h\rs1 accord+ to ! "* ( goods & ! am\nt ( %r9kage desir$4 ,! m prolong$ ! op]ation1 ! m ! mat]ial %r9ks4 ,:5 suffici5tly full$1 ! l5g? ( clo? is sc\r$ to free x f soap4 ,?is is done ) wat]1 w>m$ at fir/1 b gradually cool$1 until at ! end ! clo? is work$ 9 cold wat]4 ,next ! clo? is /ret*$ uni=mly 9 all directions1 s t x may dry ev5ly )\t wr9kles or curls4 ,sometimes ! clo? is plac$ 9 a hot-air *amb] to ha/5 ! dry+4 ,! full+ or %r9k+ is effect$ by ! application ( moi/ure1 heat1 & pressure4 ,e "o is famili> ) ! fact t wool5 blankets1 flannels1 & hosi]y t5d to contract ) frequ5t wa%+s1 ga9+ 9 ?ickness & solidity :at !y lose 9 ela/icity4 ,su* %r9kage is greatly ha/5$ :5 !y are rubb$ vigor\sly 9 hot wat] & !n all[$ to cool sudd5ly4 ,?is *ange is due to ! physical prop]ties ( ! wool fib]4 ,su* goods z beav]s1 k]seys1 meltons1 & fancy cassim]es are seldom full$ m ?an "o-six? ( _! wov5 wid?1 :ile wor/$ goods are %runk b a small fraction ( _! wov5 wid?4 ,! am\nt ( full+ receiv$ is ! di/+ui%+ feature ( _m v>ieties ( clo?4 ,9 ! treatm5t ( broadclo?1 doesk91 & all nap f9i%$ wool5s1 ! full+ is c>ri$ to a po9t :]e ! fib]s become d5sely matt$1 oblit]at+ all traces ( ! weave & giv+ ! clo? ! appe>ance ( felt4 ,crabb+4 ,aft] ! clo? has be5 dri$ 9 ! hydro extractor1 :]e x ?r[s (f sup]flu\s moi/ure1 x mu/ be /ret*$ full wid? = ! future f9i%+ processes1 & set at ?is wid?4 ,crabb+ consi/s ( two op]ations1 fir/ ! loos5+ process1 !n ! sett+ process4 ,goods are run on a cyl9d]1 !n pass$ ov] sev]al rolls1 & are kept tight s z to avoid wr9kles4 ,! cyl9d]s are imm]s$ 9 hot wat] & ! goods are all[$ to rotate 9 ?is wat] = ab\t tw5ty m9utes1 aft] :i* !y are tak5 out = "o or two h\rs4 ,!y are !n return$ to ! ma*9e = ab\t tw5ty-five m9utes & are subject$ to boil+ & also to additional pressure4 ,! boil+ wat] sets ! fabric & ! additional pressure gives ! desir$ f9i%4 ,t5t]+4 ,! object ( t5t]+#ad is to /raight5 & level ! fabric4 ,aft] ! clo? leaves ! t5t]+ ma*9e x has lo/ its natural moi/ure1 & is n at all fitt$1 z f> z fib] condition is conc]n$1 = ! napp+4 ,to br+ x into a fit /ate = ?is op]ation x is pass$ ?r\gh a tr\gh conta9+ a bru% :i* gives x ! desir$ moi/ure4 ,x is !n ready = napp+4 ,napp+4 ,mo/ clo?s at ?is /age ( f9i%+ are m or less unsightly on acc\nt ( long & irregul> fib]s on ! surface4 ,a nap may be rais$ on ! surface ( a fabric = v>i\s reasons3 9 ord] to r5d] ! mat]ial w>m]1 s(t]1 or m pleasant to ! t\*1 z 9 ! case ( blankets & flannels int5d$ to be worn next to ! body2 or = ! purposes ( increas+ ! durability ( ! fabric1 z 9 ! case ( melton1 k]sey1 broadclo?1 & simil> goods2 or a nap may be rais$ ) a view to remov+ all ! fib] f ! und]ly+ /ructure 9 ord] to leave ! patt]n ( ! clo? well def9$ & free f hair9ess4 ,! cov]+ ( nap ov] ! surface ( ! fabric t5ds to conceal _m defects caus$ by imp]fect y>ns & faulty weav+4 ,co>se1 inf]ior y>ns at be/ produce an unsightly fabric1 b :5 ! clo? con/ruct$ ( su* ?reads is f9i%$ ) a f9e1 delicate nap ! surface takes on a s(t] & ri*] appe>ance4 ,n only are ! defects 9 ! /ructure conceal$1 b ! mat]ial is r5d]$ m sightly & desirable & appe>s to be m exp5sive ?an x really is4 ,! op]ation ( napp+ is p]=m$ by pass+ ! clo? 9 a tightly /ret*$ condition ov] a revolv+ cyl9d] cov]$ ) teasels or /eel hooks4 ,^! ?\s&s ( little hooks scrat* ! entire surface ( ! clo?1 op5+ up ! %ort fib]s & cov]+ ! :ole ) a nap4 ,s9ce ! fib]s are ( diff]5t l5g?s x is necess>y to bru% ! fabric vigor\sly & !n pass x ?r\gh ! %e>+ ma*9e 9 ord] to make an ev5 & uni=m l5g?4 ,! %e>+ ma*9e acts on ! pr9ciple ( ! lawn m[] & ei!r cuts ! nap completely or leaves a pile surface4 ,! clo? is clean$ by pass+ ?r\gh a bru%+ ma*9e4 ,press+ ,ma*9e4 ,! fabric n[ requires consolidat+ & lu/]+1 or sm>t+ up 9 appe>ance--practically press+--be=e x is =w>d$ to ! w>eh\se4 ,?is is done by pass+ ! clo? ov] a press+ roll heat$ to a high temp]ature4 ,hav+ obta9$ a satisfactory lu/]1 x is necess>y to fix ?is by w9d+ ! clo? on roll]s & all[+ dry /eam to pass ?r\gh ! piece4 ,?is fixes a p]man5t lu/] & f9i% on ! piece & sets x s z to prev5t %r9kage4 ,! clo? is n[ pack$ & s5t to ! jobb]s or tailors to be cut up into suits4 ,!ories ( ,color+ 9 ,textile ,design4 ,! ?ree prim>y elem5ts ( textile design are weave1 comb9ation ( =m1 & bl5d ( colors4 ,!y ent] ei!r sep>ately or 9 connection ) ea* o!r into e species ( loom effect4 ,weave relates specifically to ! build or /ructure ( ! clo? & is an indisp5sable factor 9 any type ( clo?4 ,s*emes ( weaves w produce 9 "o op]ation an ev5 & firm clo?1 decorat$ ) a type ( patt]n t usually consi/s ( m9ute p>ts b :i* is pron\nc$ & decid$ 9 comb9ation4 ,comb9ation ( =ms is a surface decoration obta9$ by unit+ /raight & curv$ l9es4 ,color bright5s & improves ! qualities ( ! design4 ,9 fact1 ! disc>d+ ( color %ades w\ld dim9i% ! elegance ( ! design & impov]i% its appe>ance & w\ld practically de/roy ! wool5 indu/ry4 ,:e!r ! patt]n be /ripe1 *eck1 figure1 or int]m+l$ effect1 x obta9s its outl9e & detail f me?ods ( color+ adopt$4 ,9 wor/$ !re is a l>g] div]sity ( weave design ?an 9 wool52 b /ill colors are v ext5sively employ$ to develop effects due to weave & =m1 & also to imp>t a *e]ful & lu/r\s appe>ance to clo?4 ,patt]ns 9 dress fabrics1 %irt+s1 & o!r articles made entirely ( cotton are frequ5tly m]e comb9ations ( fancy %ades1 :ile fabrics compos$ ( silk & jute mat]ials1 includ+ silk ties1 h&k]*iefs1 etc4--9 fact ! clo?s 9 :i* fancy %ades are us$--%[ t color+ & its comb9ations 9 all wov5 product embelli%$ ) design1 are elem5ts :i* give tone & "* to ! /yles4 ,?\gh ! clo? may be s(t to ! t\*1 sub/antially made1 ( uni=m /ructure1 & skilfully f9i%$1 yet a lack ( brightness & elegance 9 color+ s p[]fully detracts f ! appe>ance ( ! patt]n t ^! qualities alone are n suffici5t4 ,on subject+ cotton1 silk1 wool1 & wor/$ goods to inspection1 color is f\nd to h a diff]5t tone or ca/ 9 ea* fabric4 ,fancy colors 9 cotton1 :ile decid$ly firm & cle> 9 effect1 are non-lu/r\s1 raw1 & dull 9 ton+4 ,silk color+s1 on ! contr>y1 possess bo? compactness & brilliancy2 wool5 color+s h a unique dep? & saturation ( hue *>act]i/ic ( ! mat]ial employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( wool5 goods2 :ile wor/$ color+s are bright1 def9ite1 & sm>t 9 appe>ance4 ,^! diff]5ces are due to ! physical prop]ties ( ! sev]al fib]s4 ,?us a filam5t ( silk is transp>5t & %9es l smoo? glass :5 light falls ^u x2 t ( wool is solid & opaque 9 ! c5t]1 b its ext]ior consi/s ( a multitude ( semi-transp>5t scales :i*1 :5 ( l>ge dim5sions & uni=mly arrang$--z 9 ! be/ qualities ( wool--reflect light ) a small am\nt ( disp]sion & imp>t to ! wov5 mat]ial a lu/r\s aspect4 ,cotton has no su* p>tially transp>5t %ea?4 ,:at light is reflect$ is s brok5 up t ! color is poor4 ,comp>e ?ree pla9 wov5 crimson textures made ( silk1 wool1 & cotton respectively4 ,! fir/ lit]ally %9es2 lu/]1 brilliance1 & ri*ness are ! elem5ts ( its color+4 ,?\gh bright1 x lacks t fulness & dep? ( color :i* belongs to ! wool product1 ^: millions ( filam5ts1 closely comp\nd$1 all t9t$ alike1 possess a peculi> bloom & weight ( color n to be f\nd ei!r 9 ! silk or cotton article4 ,la/ly1 take ! crimson calico4 ,h[ defici5t 9 w>m? & ri*ness x seems to be1 aft] exam9+ ! wool5 & silk texture6 ,x is dull & has a raw & defici5t "*4 ,! v>i\s me?ods ( employ+ fancy %ades 9 patt]ns obta9$ 9 ! loom may be briefly summ>iz$3 ,i4 ,9 mixture clo?s1 = suit+s1 coat+s1 etc4 a4 ,by comb9+ or bl5d+ v>i\s colors ( mat]ials4 b4 ,by comb9+ sev]al classes ( twi/ ?reads4 ,,ii4 ,9 pla91 twill$1 mat1 & fancy weave designs = tr\s]+s1 coat+s1 suit+s1 jackets1 dresses1 co/umes1 flannels1 %irt+s1 etc4 a4 ,by introduc+ colors into ! w>p1 =m+ /ripes4 b4 ,by introduc+ colors into ! fill+1 produc+ spott$ patt]ns4 c4 ,by introduc+ colors into bo? w>p & fill+1 giv+ *ecks1 brok5 /yles1 etc4 ,,iii4 ,9 figur$ designs = dresses1 ve/+s1 etc4 a4 ,by us+ "o or sev]al s]ies ( extra w>p y>n4 b4 ,by us+ "o or sev]al s]ies ( extra fill+4 ,dress goods fall naturally into two di/9ct classes :5 reg>d$ f ! /&po9t ( fa%ion--/aples & fancies4 ,/aples are ^? fabrics :i* are made ( ! same con/ruction ye> 9 & ye> out4 ,!y v>y only 9 color+ to meet ! *anges ( fa%ion4 ,! ,/aples are3 ,brilliant9es1 ,sicilians1 ,mohairs1 ,imp]ial ,s]ges1 ,/orm ,s]ge1 ,*eviots1 ,panamas1 ,bati/es1 ,taffetas1 ,voile1 ,nun's ,veil+1 ,ca%m]e1 ,%eph]d ,*ecks4 ,! ,fancies are3 ,produc$ ?r\gh ,v>iation ( weave1 ,v>iation ( color1 ,v>iation ( color & weave3 ,brocades1 ,cuspettes1 ,meliores1 ,hopsack+1 etc4 ,color+ includes3 ,/ripes1 ,*ecks1 ,plaids1 ,mal5ges1 ,mixtures4 ,prior to ! factory era our fa!rs & mo!rs made homespun clo!s & wore !m till !y _h pass$ _! p]iod ( usefulness4 ,! av]age consumption ( wool at t "t av]ag$ n m ?an ?ree p\nds p] capita4 ,z weal? increas$ ! home loom & sp9n+-:eel 7 sl[ly supplant$ by ! mill & factory4 ,! diff]5t textile manufactur]s at l5g? f\nd t competition 0 s ke5 t x 0 necess>y to adult]ate1 p>ticul>ly any fabric t 0 popul>4 ,! classes ( goods t are mo/ adult]at$ are ! exp5sive fabrics1 ^? ( wool & silk4 ,!re are su* *anges ( fa%ion 9 dress at ! pres5t day t g>m5ts compos$ ( mat]ials =m]ly consid]$ good en\gh are (t5 ?r[n aside z old-fa%ion$ :5 only half worn4 ,manufactur]s cat] to ! :ims & fancies ( p & import to ?is c\ntry =eign /yles4 ,! rapidly *ang+ /yles cause p to ?r[ ^u ! m>ket a great am\nt ( ca/-(f clo?+ only p>tially worn4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sales ,,dep>tm5t ,,( ,,! ,,sell+ ,,ag5t ,,( ,a ,,l>ge ,,mill ,! result is t !re is n wool en\gh to provide ! public ) clo?+ made ( new wool4 ,! requirem5t p] capita has ris5 to six p\nds4 ,! imm5se am\nt ( fib] 9 ca/-(f clo?+ does n f9d its way into ! pap] mills1 b r into ! %oddy mill1 :]e x is remanufactur$ into clo? aga91 or :]e "p ( ! fib] is mix$ ) good wool to make pure wool clo?4 ,9 o!r words1 ! rapidly *ang+ /yles ( to-day & ! limit$ supply ( wool are responsible = ! :olesale adult]ation :i* is be+ practis$ 9 mod]n clo? manufacture4 ,?is adult]ation fur!rmore is becom+ m & m difficult to detect by reason ( ! rapid improvem5ts made 9 ! f9i%+ processes ( clo? manufacture4 ,h5ce ! necessity = p to "k h[ & :y adult]ation occurs1 h[ x affects prices1 & :at are ! means ( detect+ x4 ,%oddy is consid]$ a legitimate adult]ation 9 wool5 & wor/$ goods4 ,! foll[+ adult]ations are n legitimate unless sold z su*3 #a4 ,cotton comb$ ) wool4 #b4 ,?9 cotton ?reads twi/$ 9 ) wor/$ dur+ ! process ( draw+4 #c4 ,cotton ?reads ( ! same color z ! wool or wor/$ us$ z fill+ or w>p4 #d4 ,cotton v5e]$ ) wool4 #e4 ,cotton ?reads ( ! same color z wool us$ 9 weav+4 ,,footnote3 #ad ,t5t]+ is c>ri$ on 9 ! ,engli% mills4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,wool5 ,,& ,,wor/$ ,,fabrics#ae ,albatross4 ,a dress fabric ( wor/$ w>p & wor/$ fill+2 ( op5 texture & fancy weaves4 ,alpaca4 ,a ?9 fabric ( close texture made f ! fib]s ( an animal ( ! llama species2 mix$ ) silk or ) cotton4 ,x is usually wov5 ) cotton w>p & mohair fill+4 ,imitations ( all cotton are manufactur$ & sold "u ?is "n4 ,cord$ ,alpaca4 ,cord$ weave1 l5g?wise ( ! piece1 cotton w>p alpaca fill+2 "o ( ! fir/ products ( ! ,am]ican loom4 ,angora4 ,! fib] ( ?is goat is comm]cially kn[n z mohair4 ,! sk9s are l>gely us$ 9 ! mak+ ( *ildr5's muffs1 = ! scalps ( dolls1 & = trimm+ coats & capes4 ,c>riage robes also claim a good %>e ( ! sk9s2 ! hair1 be+ ne>ly "o foot 9 l5g?1 makes !m beautiful & s]viceable4 ,! fib] ent]s l>gely into t class ( goods kn[n z ,a/rakhan1 ,crepons1 ,plu%es1 ,brilliant9es1 ,zibel9es1 f9e ,ca%m]es1 & _m o!r fabrics usually sold z all wool or wor/$1 accord+ to ! mode ( prep>+ ! /ock be=e sp9n+ into y>n4 ,x is f\nd 9 ! f9e/ ( silk & wor/$ fabrics = ladies' we>1 also 9 l9+s1 mitt5s1 & f9e cloak+ & ov]coat+4 ,x is not$ especially = its wat] repell+ qualities1 its beauty1 & high lu/]2 & n s mu* = its w>m?-reta9+ prop]ties1 = :i* wool /&s unequall$4 ,a/rakhan4 ,a fabric manufactur$ f ,a/rakhan fib]2 ( a curly1 wavy surface appli$ to a curly fac$ clo? resembl+ ,a/rakhan fleece4 ,b&anna4 ,f ! ,indian b&anna1 to b9d or tie4 ,9 dye+1 ! clo? is ti$ 9 knots :5 dipp$1 & ?us has a cl\d$ effect4 ,beav]4 ,a heavy clo? manufactur$ ( f9e wool1 ) a f9i% on ! surface to resemble ! fur ( ! animal by t "n4 ,fur ,beav]4 ,simil> 9 _m respects to ,beav]1 b hav+ on its surface a long1 d5se nap1 9 imitation ( ! fur ( ! ,beav]4 ,us$ = ov]coats1 cloaks1 & capes4 ,b$=d ,cord4 ,a f9e wool5 fabric1 ) f9e recesses runn+ ) ! piece1 & ext5sively us$ = ladies' dress goods4 ,an all wool clo? ( close texture = g5tlem5's clo?+4 ,! recesses may also be made ) f9e cotton y>n hidd5 9 ! wool fill+4 ,beige4 ,clo? ( undy$ or natural wool4 ,! "n is ! ,fr5* ^w = natural4 ,b9d+s4 ,a species ( n>r[ fabric ( silk1 wor/$ or cotton1 = b9d+ ! edges ( g>m5ts1 ! bottom ( dress skirts1 etc4 ,bombaz9e4 ,a twill$ fabric ( :i* ! w>p is silk & ! fill+ is wor/$4 ,bottany4 ,a t]m appli$ to wor/$ y>ns made f bottany wool4 ,x is consid]$ ! f9e/ ( all wor/$ y>ns1 & is us$ = f9e fabrics ( close texture4 ,b\cle4 ,curl$ hair or wool wov5 9 any clo? 9 su* a way z to %[ ! curl makes b\cle4 ,! ^w is ,fr5* = curl4 ,broadclo?4 ,broadclo? is a s(t1 closely wov5 mat]ial ) a sat9 f9i%4 ,! be/ qualities are call$ sat9 broadclo?4 ,! orig9 ( broadclo? dates back to e>ly times1 ! fir/ hi/orical m5tion ( x be+ made 9 #afda4 ,9 ,am]ica1 among ! fir/ products manufactur$ by ! colonial wool5 mills 7 black & color$ broadclo?s1 & ^! 7) sat9ets7 =m$ ! di/9ctive "* ( ,am]ican wool5 fabrics at t "t4 ,!y 7 hone/ly made ( pure1 f9e-fib]$ ,saxony wool1 & sold z high z #f4ej p] y>d4 ,! w>p & fill+ are made ( c>d$ wool s t ! web 7clo?7 w %r9k or full ev5ly4 ,! /ock is g5]ally dy$ 9 ! raw /ate :5 us$ = m5's we>4 ,:5 tak5 f ! loom x does n h ! smoo?1 lu/r\s appe>ance :i* is its di/9ctive feature4 ,x is r\gh & dull color$1 ) ! ?reads %[+ pla9ly4 ,to improve its appe>ance x is fir/ subject$ to ! action ( ! full+ mill1 ) ! result t ! fib]s ( ! w>p & weft become entangl$ to su* an ext5t t ! clo? nev] unravels4 ,!n ! clo? is slightly napp$ & %e>$ d[n close1 9 ord] to produce a smoo?1 ev5 surface4 ,next x is successively wett$1 /eam$1 cal5d]$1 & hot press$ = ! purpose ( br++ out ! lu/]4 ,x is commonly twill wov51 b is sometimes pla91 f9i%$ ) a slightly napp$ & lu/r\s face4 ,x mu/ h a bright1 beav] f9i%1 & be close & felty 9 ! weave4 ,! broadclo? us$ = wom5's clo?+ is ( a light] weight & is g5]ally piece dy$4 ,x is us$ = ladies' suits1 coats1 & g5tlem5's ev5+ dress suits1 frock coats1 & tux$os4 ,x is exp5sive2 prices range f #a4ge to #c4ej p] y>d 9 ladies' broadclo?1 & high] = m54 ,! price dep5ds on ! quality ( wool us$1 & uni=mity ( ! nap & p]fection ( ! f9i%4 ,bunt+4 ,a pla9 ev5 ?read weave ( mohair1 wool1 or wor/$1 us$ mo/ly = mak+ flags4 ,! "n is f ,g]man1 bunt1 mean+ v>iegat$ or gay color$4 ,cani*e4 ,a "n giv5 to curl$ wool fabric %[+ ! effect ( ! coat ( ! cani*e1 a ,fr5* dog4 ,ca%m]e4 ,a clo? made f ! hair ( ! ,ca%m]e goat4 ,! face ( ! fabric is twill$1 ! twills be+ unev5 & irregul> because ( ! unev5ness ( ! y>n4 ,ca%m]e y>n 0 fir/ h& spun4 ,! goats are gr[n = _! wool 9 ! vale ( ,ca%m]e 9 ! ,himalaya ,m\nta9s4 ,all ,wool ,ca%m]e4 ,z no mat]ial by ?is "n exi/s !re c be no def9ition4 ,:5 ! t]m is us$ 9 def9+ a fabric1 x is a delusion & a sn>e4 ,ca%m]e ,d\ble4 ,a clo? hav+ ,ca%m]e twill on "o side or face & popl9 cord on ! rev]se4 ,cassim]e4 ,! "n is a v>iation ( ,ca%m]e4 ,cassim]e1 :5 prop]ly made1 is ( ,ca%m]e wool4 ,usually a twill weave4 ,ca/or4 ,same z beav]1 ( a light weight4 ,*allis4 7,also spell$ *allie47 ,a "n giv5 to a sup]ior dress fabric ( silk & wool fir/ manufactur$ at ,norwi*1 ,engl&1 9 #ahcb4 ,9 texture ! orig9al mat]ial 0 s(t1 ?91 f9e1 & f9i%$ )\t gloss4 ,:5 fir/ introduc$ x rank$ among ! be/ & mo/ elegant silk & wool textures manufactur$4 ,x 0 compos$ ( f9e mat]ials1 & in/ead ( giv+ x a glossy surface1 su* z is usually produc$ f silk & f9e wool1 ! object 0 to make x )\t lu/]4 ,! "n is n[ appli$ to an extremely light weight summ] dress fabric1 compos$ ( ei!r cotton or wool1 or a mixture ( ^! fabrics4 ,9 /ructure x is bo? pla9 wov5 & figur$1 ! ornam5tal patt]ns be+ produc$ ei!r 9 ! loom or y>n1 dy$ or pr9t$4 ,x is n siz$4 ,all wool *allis does n diff] ess5tially f ! old-fa%ion$ musl9 dela9e4 ,mo/ *allis patt]ns are copi$ f ! ,fr5* silks1 & ?is acc\nts 9 "p = _! ta/eful designs & arti/ic effects4 ,fr5* *allis is a mat]ial simil> to ! above1 ?\gh usually *>act]iz$ by a m glossy f9i%4 ,*eviot4 ,a descriptive t]m ( some:at loose application1 be+ us$ indiscrim9ately ( late ye>s to d5ote almo/ any sort ( /\t wool5 clo? f9i%$ ) a r\gh & %aggy surface4 ,orig9ally ! fabric kn[n z *eviot 0 wov5 9 ,engl&1 f ! /rong1 co>se wool ( ! ,*eviot %eep1 :5ce ! "n4 ,x is at pres5t a wor/$ or wool5 fabric made ( *eviot or pull$ wool1 slightly felt$1 ) a %ort ev5 nap on ! surface & a supple feel4 ,wor/$ *eviots1 9 pla9 color+s or ( fancy effects1 are manufactur$ f comb$ y>n4 ,wool5 *eviots are made f c>d$ y>n4 ,! great] portion ( ?is class ( goods 9 c>d$ y>ns conta9s little or no new wool 9 its make-up4 ,%oddy1 mungo1 & a lib]al mixture ( cotton to hold x toge!r1 bl5d$ 9 ! _m color+s1 help to cov] ! deception4 ,prices range f #ej c5ts to #c4jj4 ,! mat]ial is pla9 or twill wov51 & has _m ( ! qualities ( s]ge4 ,! di/+ui%+ feature ( *eviot1 :atev] ! grade ( clo?1 is ! f9i%1 ( :i* !re are two k9ds4 ,"o is kn[n z ! r\gh f9i%1 & ! o!r z ! close f9i%4 ,real *eviot is a r\gh-f9i%$ fabric1 compos$ ( a /rong1 co>se wool & full$ to a consid]able degree4 ,! process ( f9i%+ *eviot is simple1 & practically ! same me?ods are foll[$ = bo? ! r\gh & ! close /yles4 ,on leav+ ! loom ! clo? is fir/ wa%$ 9 soap & wat] to remove any dirt or o!r =eign matt] x may conta94 ,x is !n full$1 :i* consi/s 9 %r9k+ ! clo? bo? 9 l5g? & bread?1 ?us r5d]+ ! texture heavi] & d5s]4 ,next x is gigg$ or napp$4 ,?is is accompli%$ by pass+ ! face ( ! matt$ clo? aga9/ a cyl9d] cov]$ ) %>p po9t$ teasels :i* draw out ! fib]s f ! y>n4 ,?is op]ation is cont9u$ until a nap m or less d5se is rais$ ov] ! entire surface4 ,f ! gig ! clo? is tak5 to ! %e>+ ma*9e1 ! revolv+ blades ( :i* cut ! long1 irregul> nap d[n to a uni=m level4 ,sometimes ! /yle ( f9i% call$ = is t approa*+ a ?readb>e cassim]e1 & 9 ?is case great c>e is necess>y to prev5t ! blades f cutt+ ! y>n4 ,9 ! r\gh f9i% ! nap1 al?\gh sp>+ly rais$1 is comp>atively long4 ,hav+ be5 napp$ & %e>$1 ! clo? is press$ & c>efully exam9$ = defects1 !n bru%$1 press$1 & highly /eam$4 ,:5 measur$1 roll$1 & /eam$1 x is ready = m>ket1 & is us$ mo/ly = ladies' & g5tlem5's suit+s4 ,! patt]n & design are light /ripes & *ecks ( small dim5sions4 ,*eviot is a "n giv5 to _m mat]ials us$ = suit+4 ,*9*illa4 ,heavy coat+ ) r\gh wavy face4 ,! "n is ,spani% = a fur-be>+ animal ( ! m9k species4 ,*udah4 ,appli$ to billi>d clo?2 relates to color4 ,*udah is ! ,h9doo "n ( a bright gre5 clo?4 ,corduroy4 ,heavy cord$ cotton mat]ial us$ = s]vants' liv]y4 ,! "n is f ! ,fr5* ,corde du ,roi--k+'s cords4 ,cte ,*eval4 ,9 ,france cord$ clo? = rid+ co/umes1 su* z ,b$=d cord1 is call$ cte *eval1 ! application be+ ?r\gh *eval1 horse2 cte1 ribb$ or l9$4 ,c\pure4 ,c\pure is ,fr5* = cut ?r\gh4 ,c\pure or cut ca%m]e is a ca%m]e weave %[+ l9es cut ?r\gh ! twills l5g?wise ( ! piece4 ,cov]t4 ,heavy twill$ clo? 9 natural undy$ %ades1 us$ 9 ,engl& = m5's ov]coats worn :ile rid+ to cov]t 9 fox hunt+4 ,dela9e4 ,f ! ,fr5* ( wool2 applies to ! mo/ primitive weave ( pla9 wool y>n4 ,?irty ye>s ago dela9e 0 ! /aple dress goods /ock4 ,x 0 made 9 solid colors4 ,diagonal ,*eviot4 ,same z *eviot1 only 9 ! weav+ ! patt]n is m>k$ by zigzag l9es or /ripes4 ,doesk94 ,( ! broadclo? range1 made ) %9y napp$ face1 s(t f9i%1 z ! pelt ( a doe4 ,drap d't4 ,a heavy ca%m]e or d\ble w>p m]9o1 ) ! back teasl$ or scrat*$1 us$ mo/ly = cl]gym5's clo?+ & 9 light] weights = wom5's dresses4 ,! "n is ,fr5* = clo? ( summ]4 ,empress ,clo?4 ,simil> to popl92 made ( h>d twi/$ wor/$ fill+ & cotton w>p4 ,0 made a success 9 ! e>ly sev5ties ( ! la/ c5tury by ! ,empress ,eug5ie ( ,france4 ,empress clo? 0 a /aple 9 all well-regulat$ dress goods l9es4 p+l9e4 ,a f9e cord$ fabric ( wool or silk1 %[+ ! cords wov5 close toge!r & appe>+ z if l9$ ) a p9 po9t4 ,?is application is f p+le1 ,fr5* = p94 ,etam9e4 ,fr5* "n = bolt+ or sift+ clo?1 made ( silk = sift+ fl\r2 appli$ to me% or net weaves 9 ,am]ica4 ,felt4 ,fabric made by roll+ or press+ a pulpy mass or mixture ( wool into a flat mat4 ,! "n is f ! process4 ,to felt is to mix & press into %ape4 ,flannel4 ,wales appe>s to h be5 ! orig9al home ( flannel1 & hi/ory in=ms u t ?is 0 ! only textile produc$ 9 t c\ntry = hundr$s ( ye>s4 ,x is con/ruct$ ei!r ( cotton or wool1 or ( an int]mixture ( ^! fib]s1 & is a co>se-?read$1 loosely wov51 light-weight fabric1 m or less spongy & ela/ic1 ) an unf9i%$1 lu/]less surface4 ,g5]ally speak+ all grades ( pla9 color$ flannel are piece dy$1 ! s(t op5 texture ( ! goods p]mitt+ ! fib]s to absorb ! dye z readily 9 ! web z 9 ! y>n4 ,flannels are subject$ to sev]al f9i%+ op]ations1 su* z full+1 teasel+1 press+1 & /ret*+4 ,flannels d n require a great deal ( full+4 ,all t is necess>y is en\gh to give a degree ( /ability & body to ! goods4 ,dress ,flannel4 ,all wool fabric us$ *iefly = wom5's w9t] dresses2 also call$ flannel suit+4 ,x has a div]sity ( qualities1 colors1 & /yles ( f9i%4 ,x is commonly put up 9 d\ble fold1 wid? f tw5ty-six to fifty in*es4 ,fr5* ,flannel4 ,a f9e1 s(t twill1 wov5 v>iety dy$ 9 solid %ades1 & also pr9t$ ) patt]ns aft] ! mann] ( calico2 us$ = morn+ g[ns1 dress+ sacques1 wai/s1 etc4 ,%ak] ,flannel4 ,a v>iety ( :ite flannel f9i%$ ) consid]able nap1 compos$ ( cotton w>p & wool5 weft4 ,indigo ,blue4 ,a sup]ior all wool grade us$ 9 ! manufacture ( m5's suits & p>ticul>ly = ! uni=m ( memb]s ( ! ,g4 ,a4 ,r4 ,mack9aw4 ,! "n appli$ to an extra heavy blanket-l mat]ial us$ 9 cold climates by m9]s & lumb]m5 = %irts & und]we>4 ,navy ,twill$ ,flannel4 ,a heavy all wool v>iety commonly dy$ indigo blue1 commonly us$ 9 ! manufacture ( ov]%irts = out-door labor]s1 firem51 sailors1 & m9]s4 ,silk ,w>p ,flannel4 ,a high grade1 pure v>iety ( flannel wov5 ) a silk w>p & a f9e wool5 weft4 ,x is a v s(t1 light-weight1 loosely wov5 flannel & runs only 9 n>r[ wid?s1 tw5ty-sev5 in*es4 ,if ! f9i%+ process is c>ri$ beyond full+ ! texture is r5d]$ h>d & firm1 ! clo? ?us los+ its s(tness & ela/icity4 ,9 ! teasel+ process x is necess>y = ! nap to be rais$ only slightly1 & ?is is commonly done 9 ! direction ( ! gra9 or twi/ ( ! w>p4 ,! p]fection ( a flannel f9i% lies n 9 ! smoo? appe>ance ( ! clo?1 b 9 its full1 ri* s(tness4 ,sometimes ! nap is %e>$1 b m (t5 x is press$ d[n flat ^u ! face ( ! clo?4 ,aft] a ?or\gh dry+1 & c>eful exam9ation = defects1 ! goods are roll$ on bo>ds1 & are ready = m>ket4 ,x is us$ = infants' we> & %awls1 = und]g>m5ts1 b$ cov]+s1 & also to "s ext5t = out] g>m5ts 9 weights & /yles adapt$ = t purpose4 ,baby ,flannel4 ,a v light-weight v>iety wov5 ( f9e1 s(t wool1 smoo? f9i%1 blea*$ pure :ite4 ,flor5t9e4 ,a heavy twill$ mohair fabric = m5's we> :i* is sold l>gely to ,italy & ,spa94 ,! "n is f ,flor5ce1 ,italy4 ,f\le4 ,a twill$1 un%e>$ clo?2 t is1 ! face appe>s to be uns+$1 & %[s ! woolly r\ghness 9 a slight degree4 ,! clo? :5 wov5 9 ! gray is full$ or %runk5 9 wid? by soak+ 9 soapsuds & pass+ x :ile wet ?r\gh holes ( diff]5t sizes 9 a /eel plate4 ,! "n is f f\l]1 ,fr5*1 to full or %r9k4 ,frieze4 ,frieze is a co>se1 heavy clo? ) a curly surface & made at fir/ ( lamb's wool4 ,x is n[ made f co>se grades ( wool4 ,x is ?ick & heavily napp$1 & is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( w>m out] g>m5ts1 p>ticul>ly = m5's we>4 ,x 0 nam$ aft] ! p ( ,friesl& 9 ,holl& 9 ! #ac? c5tury1 & is fam\s to-day z an ,iri% fabric4 ,iri% frieze has extraord9>y durability1 & ! fib]s are ! longe/ & /ronge/ made4 ,! weave is pla91 small twill1 or h]r+ bone4 ,:5 n ( a solid color x is usually a mixture1 ! colors be+ mix$ 9 ! raw /ate4 ,! wool is dy$ 9 ! raw /ate 9 mass1 !n d\bl$ aft] sp9n+4 ,gloria4 ,pla9 weave ( silk & wool1 & silk & cotton2 fir/ made = umbrella cov]+4 ,"n means bright4 ,granada4 ,popul> weave ( mohair1 made 9 coat+ weight = ,spani% trade4 ,granada is a city 9 ,spa94 ,gr5ad9e4 ,orig9ally a pla91 op5work1 net-l fabric ( silk1 mohair1 cotton1 or wool4 ,we h gr5ad9es 9 ,jacqu>ds & 9 set patt]ns4 ,! "n is an adaptation ( ,granada4 ,h5rietta ,clo?4 ,a twill$ ca%m]e ( light weight & high f9i%1 orig9ally made ) silk w>p & wool fill+ 9 ,york%ire1 ,engl&4 ,! "n 0 giv5 9 honor ( ,h5rietta ,m>ia ( ,engl&1 ,que5 ( ,*>les ,i4 ,! silk w>p1 h&-wov5 fabric 0 fir/ produc$ ab\t ! ye> #affj4 ,homespun4 ,a r\gh1 loosely wov5 mat]ial made f co>se y>n4 ,x is s(t b r clumsy4 ,a g5]al t]m us$ to designate clo? spun or wr\ght at home4 ,! homespun ( ! pres5t day is a wool5 fabric 9 imitation ( ^? fabrics made by h& be=e ! introduction ( textile ma*9]y4 ,x is made ( a co>se1 r\gh1 & unev5 ?read2 usually ( pla9 weave & no felt+4 ,x 0 wov5 by ! e>ly settl]s ( ! ,ea/]n & ,s\!rn ,/ates4 ,x is n[ us$ z wool5 suit+ = m5's we> & 9 v>i\s k9ds ( co>se1 spongy1 %aggy clo? = wom5's g[ns4 ,hop ,sack+4 ,a co>se bagg+ made commonly ( a comb9ation ( hemp & jute1 us$ = hold+ hops dur+ transportation4 ,! "n hop sack+ is also appli$ to a v>iety ( wool5 dress goods made f diff]5t classes ( y>n4 ,x is made ( c>d$ wool5 fabric ( ! pla9e/ k9d4 ,! clo? is *>act]iz$ by an op5 weave1 & a squ>e *eck-l me%1 ! /ructure be+ design$ to imitate t ( ! co>se jute bagg+4 ,x has v little f9i%1 is usually dy$ 9 solid colors1 & is us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's dresses4 ,jeans4 ,cotton or wool5 co>se twill$ fabric4 ,9 cotton us$ = l9+s1 9 wool = m5's *eap clo?+4 ,! "n is f a ,g5oese co91 relat+ to ! price ( ! clo?2 s mu* = "o jean4 ,k]sey4 ,a v heavy1 felt$1 sat9 f9i% wool5 clo? made ) ! cotton weave or cross twill = face1 & cotton weave or f\r h>ness sat9 = back4 ,x 0 orig9ally made ) f9e ,m]9o lamb's wool = face1 & some:at co>s] grade = back4 ,! *eap] grades are manufactur$ f a f9e-fib]$ wool & %oddy1 ) l[ grades ( %oddy & mungo = back4 ,x is nam$ f an ,engli% t[n1 ,k]sey1 :]e f ! elev5? to ! fifte5? c5tury a l>ge wool5 trade 0 c>ri$ on4 ,! ,k]sey ( e>ly hi/ory 0 a co>se clo?1 kn[n "u diff]5t names1 & be=e knitt+ 0 us$ = /ock+s4 ,9 ! con/ruction ( ,k]sey ! clo? is wov5 a few in*es wid] 9 ! loom 7& correspond+ly long]7 ?an x is to appe> 9 ! f9i%$ /ate4 ,?is is done 9 ord] t ! me%es may be clos$ up 9 ! full+ mill to insure a cov]+ ( ?reads4 ,previ\s to full+1 h[ev]1 ! face ( ! clo? is gigg$ to produce a good cov]+ = ! ?reads by =m+ a light nap1 :i* is fitt$ 94 ,9 ! full+ op]ation1 :i* comes next1 ! clo? is %runk to its prop] wid? & d5sity1 usually to a degree r5d]+ x difficult to see ! individual w>p & fill+ ?reads1 s closely are !y matt$ toge!r4 ,full+ is foll[$ by gigg+1 & 9 ?is process a nap m or less heavy is rais$ on ! face ( ! goods by means ( teasels4 ,! clo? is run ?r\gh ! gig sev]al times & !n %e>$ 9 ord] to r5d] ! fib]s =m+ ! nap %ort1 ev51 & ( uni=m l5g?4 ,great c>e is ex]cis$ 9 ! %e>+1 z ! nap mu/ be cropp$ q close & yet n expose ! ?reads or cut ! face4 ,! next op]ation is sc\r+ or /eam+1 9 :i* live /eam is =c$ ?r\gh e "p ( ! goods = ! purpose ( develop+ ! natural lu/] ( ! wool4 ,9 case ! goods are to be piece dy$1 ! dye+ foll[s sc\r+4 ,aft] /eam+1 ! clo? is ?or\ghly matt$ & gigg$ aga91 c>e be+ tak5 to avoid /irr+ up ! gr\nd nap4 ,x is !n dri$ & ! nap briskly bru%$ 9 a /eam bru%] & laid ev5ly 9 "o direction4 ,aga9 ! clo? is slightly /eam$ & prim$1 face up4 ,! result ( ?is treatm5t is ! production ( a texture firm1 yet pliable1 ) a highly lu/r\s face & "o n liable to we> r\gh or ?readb>e4 ,k]sey is us$ = ov]coats4 ,k]seym]e4 ,light weight twill$ wor/$2 same d]ivative ( "n z ,k]sey4 ,l9sey ,woolsey4 ,co>se clo? ( l95 & wool us$ z skirt+s by ! ,briti% peasantry4 ,! "n is f ! compon5ts ( ! clo?4 ,melrose4 ,d\ble twill$ silk & wool fabric2 nam$ = ,melrose1 a t[n on ! ,twe$1 9 ,scotl&4 ,melton4 ,a ?ick1 heavy wool5 fabric ) %ort nap1 feel+ some:at r\gh4 ,meltons are made firm 9 ! loom4 ,! weaves = s+le clo? meltons are usually pla91 & ?ree or f\r h>ness twill4 ,= d\ble clo?s ! pla9 weave is us$1 or a weave ) a pla9 face & a "o-?ird weave on ! back4 ,all trace ( ! weave is de/roy$ 9 ! f9i%+4 ,! colors usually black or d>k blue4 ,meltonette4 ,a clo? ( ! same g5]al appe>ance z melton1 ( light weight1 = wom5's we>4 ,m]9o4 ,a fabric wov5 ( ! wool ( ! ,m]9o %eep1 twill$ on bo? sides1 ! twill be+ unev54 ,m]9o resembles ca%m]e4 ,mohair ,brilliant9e4 ,a dress fabric resembl+ alpaca1 ( sup]ior quality1 & sometimes f9i%$ on bo? sides4 ,! "n is f ! ,arabic mukayyan1 clo? ( goat's hair4 ,x is made f ! long1 silky hair ( ! ,angora goat ( ,asia ,m9or1 a species :i* is be+ introduc$ into ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! fabric has a h>d1 wiry feel1 & if made f ! pure mat]ial has a high lu/]4 ,x has cotton w>p & lu/] wor/$ fill+4 ,! weave is pla9 gr\nd1 or ) a small ,jacqu>d figure1 & :5 a v lu/r\s fabric is want$1 ! w>p y>n is ( f9] c\nts ?an ! fill+ y>n4 ,! w>p & fill+ y>ns are dy$ previ\s to weav+4 ,!y may be ( ! same color or diff]5t colors4 ,! contra/ ( colors 9 connection ) ! weave gives ! fabric a pretty effect4 ,fabrics made ) dy$ y>ns are usually giv5 a dry f9i%1 t is1 simply run ?r\gh ! press & cyl9d] heat$1 aft] :i* !y are roll$ & !n pack$4 ,^? made ) undy$ fill+ are fir/ sc\r$1 !n dy$1 aft] :i* !y are run ?r\gh a rot>y press ) fifty or sixty p\nds ( /eam heat4 ,mohair brilliant9e is us$ = dress goods4 ,montagnac is heavy ov]coat+4 ,! ,fr5* montagne1 = m\nta91 is ! orig9 ( ! "n1 be+ = m\nta9 we>4 ,orleans4 ,clo? ( cotton w>p & bright wool full+1 made 9 ,orleans1 ,france4 ,_m ( ! s-call$ alpacas & mohairs ( to-day are ,orleans4 ,^! fabrics are mo/ly cross-dy$1 t is1 fabrics ) w>p & fill+ ( diff]5t %ades4 ,aft] weav+ !y are cross-dy$ or r$y$ to give solid colors & glac effects4 ,panama ,clo? is a pla9 weave wor/$ fabric ( no uni=m con/ruction or f9i%4 ,fabrics sold "u ?is "n v>y consid]ably4 ,!y are ( solid colors1 usually piece dy$1 & are us$ = suit+s4 ,prunella4 ,f ! ,fr5* prunelle1 :i* means plum1 a /\t wor/$ mat]ial nam$ f its color1 :i* is a purpli% %ade simil> to t ( a ripe plum4 ,! "n 0 orig9ally appli$ to a k9d ( la/+ ( :i* cl]gym5's g[ns 7 made4 ,x is n[ us$ to d5ote a v>iety ( ri*1 sat9-fac$ wor/$ clo? employ$ = wom5's dresses4 ,! fib]s are wor/$4 ,prunella is dy$ ei!r 9 piece or y>n /ate & is h& f9i%$4 ,sack+4 ,pla9 solid color flannel 9 special %ades = wom5's dress+ sacks1 also appli$ to a fabric made ( hemp = gra9 sacks4 ,sangli]4 ,a pla9 fabric ( wiry wor/$ or mohair y>n1 closely wov51 ) a r\gh f9i%$ surface4 ,sangli] is ,fr5* = wild bo>1 ! hairy1 wiry clo? resembl+ ! coat ( ! animal4 ,seba/opol4 ,a twill-fac$ clo? nam$ f ,seba/opol1 ! ,russian =tifi$ t[n captur$ by ! ,engli% & ,fr5* 9 #ahee4 ,s]ge4 ,"u ?is "n are class$ a l>ge numb] ( fabrics ( twill con/ruction4 ,9 weight & texture a mod]n s]ge resembles flannel1 except t x is twill wov5 & compos$ ( f9e y>n f9i%$ ) a smoo!r surface4 ,s]ge comes f ! ,italian ^w s]gea1 mean+ clo? ( wool mix$ ) silk4 ,s]ges are wov5 ( wor/$1 ( silk1 or ( cotton y>n1 & v>i\sly dy$1 f9i%$1 & ornam5t$1 z silk s]ge1 s]ge suit+1 /orm s]ge1 mohair s]ge1 etc4 ,wor/$ s]ges ( v>i\s k9ds & degrees h be5 kn[n s9ce ! twelf? c5tury4 ,wor/$ s]ge appe>s to h come into g5]al use z a mat]ial = m5's we> 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,mod]n s]ges v>y b little f ^? made two c5turies ago4 ,!y are dy$ 9 a great v>iety ( colors4 ,on leav+ ! loom ! clo? is wa%$ & sc\r$ ) soap & wat] to remove ! dirt & oil 7if ^! rema9 ! clo? w n take ! dye prop]ly74 ,aft] dye+1 x is pass$ ?r\gh a pair ( metal roll]s "u pressure1 :i* r5d]s ! surface m regul> & ev5 & ( a bett] lu/]4 ,?is process accompli%es m ?an is requir$1 = x produces a bloom on ! surface :i* w %[ ra9 specks :5 9 ! g>m5t1 if x is all[$ to rema94 ,?is is ord9>y s]ge4 ,9 ord] to make /orm s]ge x is necess>y to remove "p ( ! bloom1 & to accompli% ?is ! clo? is /eam$ suffici5tly to neutralize ! effect ( press+4 ,/eam+ dead5s ! bloom & prev5ts ! effects ( ra9 %[+ on ! clo?4 ,! we>+ qualities ( s]ge are good1 b x gets a %9e easily4 ,x is us$ = dress goods & suit+s4 ,s]ge suit+ us$ = m5's clo?+ is a v>iety ( light1 wiry1 wor/$ y>n wov5 ) a flat twill1 & dy$ black or 9 %ades ( blue1 fifty-f\r in*es 9 wid?4 ,mohair s]ge is wov5 ) a cotton w>p & a mohair fill+1 ?irty-two in*es 9 wid?4 ,?is is dy$ 9 a v>iety ( colors & l>gely us$ z l9+ mat]ial = wom5's clo!s1 m5's coats1 & ov]coats4 ,/orm s]ge1 design$ to )/& exposure to /ormy wea!r1 is a co>se v>iety ( wor/$ dress goods produc$ 9 a wide range ( colors & qualities4 ,! twill is wid]1 ! texture /\t]1 & ! surface r\gh] & clean] ?an t ( ord9>y s]ge4 ,iridesc5t s]ge is a v>iety ( wor/$ dress goods wov5 ) w>p & fill+ ( diff]5t colors1 caus+ a %imm]+ or iridesc5t effect4 ,crav5ette s]ge is a f9e twill$ v>iety hav+ a firm1 closely wov5 texture1 dy$ black & 9 colors1 & is us$ = wom5's g[ns1 m5's summ] suits1 etc4 ,s]ge de ,b>ry is a high-grade dress goods ( f9e texture1 ) f9e twill1 & wiry feel4 ,%oddy is made f old wool5 /ock+s or rags1 %r$d$ or pick$ by h& or ma*9e1 to r5d] ! y>n suitable = sp9n+ a second "t1 or to give a fib] t c be wov5 or felt$ ) a wool or cotton w>p4 ,! "n has come to mean *eap1 make-believe4 ,sicilian4 ,heavy weight cotton w>p1 mohair fill$ clo?4 ,sicili5ne1 ! prop] "n1 0 made 9 ! ,isl& ( ,sicily z a heavy ribb$1 all silk fabric4 ,sultane4 ,twill$ clo? ( silk & wool2 f9i%$ 9 ! r\gh1 n s+$ or %e>$4 ,! "n is f ,sultana1 ! fir/ wife ( ! ,sultan4 ,tamise4 ,simil> to etam9e1 ) a v close me%1 made fir/ ( silk & wool4 ,tamis is ,fr5* = sieve4 ,t>tans4 ,plaids ( ! ,scotti% clans worn by m5 9 ! ,highl&s ( ,scotl& z a diagonal sc>f1 fa/5$ on "o %\ld] & cross+ ! body4 ,ea* clan _h a di/9ctive t>tan or plaid4 ,! "n 0 adapt$ f ! ,fr5* tireta9e1 a ?9 wool5 *eck$ clo?4 ,?ibet4 ,heavy1 co>se weave ( goat's hair1 made by ! ,?ibetans 9 ,asia = m5's we>4 ,tricot4 ,a heavy1 comp\nd fabric *>act]iz$ by a l9e effect runn+ w>p way or fill+ way ( ! piece1 usually produc$ ) ei!r wool5 or wor/$ y>n4 ,tricot 0 orig9ally a "n giv5 to fabrics made ( wool5 y>n or ?read by h& knitt+1 & is ! ,fr5* ^w mean+ knitt+4 ,! t]m 0 lat] appli$ to mat]ials made on a knitt+ frame & n[ kn[n z j]sey clo?4 ,s9ce #ahdj ! "n tricot has be5 appli$ to f9ely wov5 wool5 clo?1 ! weave ( :i* is int5d$ to imitate ! face effect ( a knitt$ fabric4 ,! fabric is compos$ ( wool5 & wor/$ fib]s1 sometimes ) cotton w>p wov5 s z to hide ! cotton 9 f9i%+4 ,! tricot l9e is simil> to ! rib l9e 9 a ribb$ clo? except t x is n s pron\nc$4 ,all tricots are con/ruct$ ) two sets ( w>p ?read & are *>act]iz$ by a texture :i*1 :ile d5se1 is s+ul>ly ela/ic1 9 ?is respect be+ some:at simil> to heavy j]sey clo?4 ,tricots are commonly dy$ 9 pla9 colors1 & are f9i%$ cle> s z to %[ ! fill+4 ,:5 int5d$ = tr\s]s !y are ornam5t$ ) small1 neat patt]ns4 ,twe$4 ,a r\gh unf9i%$ fabric ( s(t1 op51 & flexible texture1 ( wool or cotton & wool1 usually ( y>n ( two or m %ades2 orig9ally ! product ( ! weav]s on ! bank ( ! riv] ,twe$ 9 ,scotl&4 ,! face ( ! clo? pres5ts an unf9i%$ appe>ance r ?an a %>p & cle>ly def9$ patt]n4 ,veil+ includes light weight1 usually pla9 weave fabrics ( v>i\s con/ructions2 g5]ally made ) s+$ or poli%$ y>ns4 ,!y are 9 solid colors4 ,! use is designat$ by ! "n4 ,v5etian4 ,v5etian clo? has a wor/$ or cotton w>p & wor/$ fill+2 nam$ f ,v5etia1 a c\ntry ar\nd ,v5ice4 ,! w>p y>ns are firmly twi/$1 ! twi/ be+ 9 ! opposite direction to ! twi/ 9 ! fill+ y>n4 ,v5etian is a trade t]m ( wide application1 9 use s9ce e>ly times z a descriptive title = v>i\s fabrics1 textures1 & g>m5ts4 ,"o ( ! _m v>ieties is a species ( twill weav+ 9 :i* ! l9es or twills are ( a r\nd$ =m & arrang$ 9 a m or less upright position1 h5ce a closely wov5 wor/$ clo?4 ,! "n is also appli$ to o!r fabrics1 z a twill$ l9+ fabric wov5 ) a cotton w>p & a wor/$ fill+ kn[n z ,italian clo?4 ,x is dy$ 9 pla9 colors & is piece or y>n dy$ = m54 ,= wom5's we> x has light weight & pla9 colors ) mix$ effects & closely %e>$ nap4 ,x is f9i%$ smoo? s z to %[ ! y>ns prom95tly4 ,v5etian clo? has n s mu* felt+ z broadclo?2 x %[s ! weave m1 b has ! same lu/r\s f9i%4 ,vigogne or ,vicua4 ,a s(t wool clo? ( ! *eviot ord]1 ) teasl$ face1 made f ! wool ( ! vicua1 a ,s\? ,am]ican animal4 ,vigogne is ! ,fr5* "n = ! animal4 ,vig\reux4 ,a "n appli$ to a pla9 or twill mixture1 wov5 ( undy$ natural wool y>ns4 ,! ,fr5* sp9n]s f\nd t ! /ronge/ y>ns 7 ^? ( ! undy$ wool4 ,sometimes two or m %ades or tones are spun into "o ?read4 ,! "n is ,fr5* = /rong4 ,voiles4 ,voiles are pla9 weave wor/$ fabrics made ) h>d twi/$ y>ns4 ,z cle> a face z possible is secur$ 9 f9i%+1 ! clo? be+ s+$ or %e>$ closely if ! y>ns are n made comp>atively free f loose fib]s be=e be+ wov54 ,voiles are dy$ 9 solid colors1 & are us$ pr9cipally = dress goods4 ,:ipcord4 ,h>d twi/$ wor/$ twills1 ei!r solid or mix$ colors4 ,! "n is f ! h>d twi/$ la% ( a :ip4 ,wor/$ ,diagonals are *>act]iz$ by prom95t weave effects runn+ diagonally across ! clo?4 ,! goods are usually ( a solid color1 & are giv5 a f9i% :i* br+s ! weave into prom95ce4 ,diagonals are us$ = suit+s4 ,unf9i%$ wor/$ is a fabric wov5 ) y>n ) v little twi/ 9 x1 & f9i%$ s z to make x appe> cov]$ ) loose fib]s1 conceal+ ! twill effect4 ,aft] leav+ ! loom ! clo? is plac$ 9 a full+ ma*9e :i* cond5ses ! fib]s1 ?us increas+ ! d5sity4 ,x is !n pass$ ov] hot presses aft] a slight %e>+4 ,f9i%$ ,wor/$ is wov5 ) y>n ) a consid]able twi/1 & f9i%$ 9 su* a way z to %[ ! con/ruction ( ! clo? cle>ly4 ,! f9i%+ consi/s simply ( sc\r+ ! clo? & n full+ x & !n pass+ x ?r\gh hot wat] ba?s betwe5 heavy rolls to remove all ! soap4 ,x is !n %e>$ & press$4 ,zephyr4 ,light wor/$ y>n1 also light weight cotton g+ham4 ,zephyr is ,greek = ! light we/ w9d4 ,zibel9e4 ,a clo? manufactur$ ) ,m]9o lamb's wool = w>p1 & a light wool mix$ ) camel's hair = fill+2 or1 wor/$ w>p & camel's hair = fill+2 or ei!r ( ! =ego+ w>ps & a mixture ( wool1 camel's hair1 & f9e ca%m]e = fill+4 ,! long ca%m]e hair spreads ov] ! surface4 ,us$ = ladies' tailor-made coats or suits1 accord+ to weight4 ,! "n is d]iv$ f ! ,lat9 ^w sabellum1 mean+ sable1 & 0 appli$ orig9ally to a v>iety ( long-hair$ fur g5]ally ?\ght to be ! same z sable4 ,zibel9e has long hairs on its "r side1 "s grades be+ almo/ l fur4 ,,footnote3 #ae ,,sugge/ions ,,to ,,tea*]s4 ,9 connection ) ! /udy ( fabrics ! au?or has f\nd x advisable to h ! pupils ins]t 9 a blank book a sample ( ! fabric !y are /udy+4 ,9 ?is way ! pupil c exam9e bo? ! fill+ 7weft7 & w>p ?reads4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,cotton ,cotton4 ,cotton is ! mo/ important vegetable fib] us$ 9 sp9n+4 ,! cotton fib] is a s(t1 d[ny sub/ance :i* gr[s ar\nd ! cotton se$4 ,:5 exam9$ "u ! microscope x appe>s z a long twi/$ cell4 ,ow+ to ! fact t ! cotton-plant yields s readily to ! v>y+ conditions ( soil & climate1 !re is a l>ge v>iety ( cottons1 ea* hav+ "s peculi>ity :i* is consid]$ en\gh to place x 9 a di/9ct class4 ,an idea ( ! numb] ( species ( ! cotton-plant c be obta9$ f ! fact t ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture has record$ ab\t "o hundr$ & ?irty v>ieties4 ,! mo/ important v>ieties are3 ,gossypium h]baceum1 ,g4 arboreum1 ,g4 hirsutum1 ,g4 b>bad5se1 & ,g4 p]uvianum4 ,! botanical "n ( a plant is divid$ into two p>ts3 fir/ ! family "n1 foll[$ by ! species "n4 ,! ,gossypium h]baceum gr[s f f\r to six feet 9 height & be>s a yell[ fl[]4 ,! se$s are cov]$ ) a %ort gray d[n4 ,! fib] x be>s is class$ z %ort4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,egypt1 ,asia ,m9or1 ,arabia1 ,india1 & ,*9a4 ,! %ort-/apl$ v>iety ( ,egyptian cotton is f ?is species4 ,! ,g4 arboreum :5 full gr[n atta9s a height f fifte5 to tw5ty feet4 ,! se$ is cov]$ ) a gre5i% fur & is envelop$ 9 a f9e1 silky d[n1 yell[i% :ite 9 color4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,egypt1 ,arabia1 & ,*9a4 ,! ,g4 hirsutum is a %rubby plant1 its maximum height be+ ab\t six feet4 ,! "y pods are hairy1 & ! se$s are num]\s & cov]$ ) a firmly adh]+ gre5 d[n4 ,x is probable t ?is is ! orig9al ( ! gre5-se$$ cotton :i* is n[ cultivat$ s ext5sively 9 ! ,s\!rn ,/ates ( ,am]ica1 & :i* =ms ! bulk ( ! supply f t s\rce4 ,! ,g4 p]uvianum is simil> to ! ,g4 b>bad5se4 ,! ,brazilian & ,p]u cottons are f ?is species4 ,! ,g4 b>bad5se gr[s f six to fifte5 feet high2 its fl[]s are yell[ & its se$s black & smoo?1 be+ q de/itute ( ! hair t di/+ui%es o!r memb]s ( ! species4 ,x is a native ( ,b>badoes or has be5 cultivat$ !re = a long "t4 ,cottons ( ! f9e/ texture belong to ?is species--,sea ,isl& & ,florida cottons--f :i* our f9e/ y>ns are spun1 & x is us$ *iefly 9 ! manufacture ( f9e lace4 ,! long-/apl$ ,egyptian & sev]al o!r v>ieties are said to be f ?is /ock4 ,cotton ,gr[+ ,c\ntries4 ,! mo/ suitable situation = gr[+ cotton is betwe5 #ce degrees nor? & #dj degrees s\? ( ! equator4 ,! *ief cotton gr[+ c\ntries ( ! _w 9 ord] ( importance are3 ,unit$ ,/ates1 ,india1 ,egypt1 & ,brazil4 ,cotton is also gr[n 9 ! foll[+ c\ntries1 b 9 no quantity or quality comp>able ) ! f\r nam$ above--,we/ ,indies1 we/ coa/ ( ,africa1 ,asia ,m9or1 ,*9a1 & ,que5sl&4 ,! be/ soil = gr[+ cotton is a light loam or s&y soil1 :i* receives & reta9s ! heat1 & at ! same "t pres]ves a good supply ( moi/ure4 ,cold1 damp days are n suitable = its gr[?1 :ile deep ri* soils develop too mu* leaf & /alk4 ,! be/ climate = ! cultivation ( cotton is :]e fro/ & sn[ are ( %ort duration1 dews are heavy1 & ! sun bright1 w>m1 & regul>4 ,new soils g5]ally produce ! be/ cotton4 ,! "* ( ! cotton fib] is dep5d5t ^u ?ree ?+s1 ! species ( ! plant1 ! nature ( ! soil1 & ! locality 9 :i* x is gr[n4 ,r\gh ,p]uvian4 ,! nature ( ?is cotton is h>% & wiry & resembles wool s ne>ly t x is almo/ exclusively us$ to mix ) wool5 fabrics4 ,! /aple is r\gh & g5]ally /rong1 & is ( a spr+y t5d5cy1 i4e41 x does n lie close l ,am]ican4 ,ea/ ,indian4 ,india dep5ds ^u ! monsoon = its moi/ure1 & ! success or failure ( ! crop is decid$ by t ph5om5on ( nature4 ,indian cottons z a rule are co>s] & %ort] ?an ,am]ican cottons4 ,! l& is prep>$ be=e ! break+ ( ! monsoon1 & ! plant+ beg9s aft] x4 ,!re is n ! same c>e be/[$ ^u ! cultivation ( ! ,indian cotton1 nor are su* improv$ me?ods practis$ z 9 ,am]ica4 ,! anci5t r\t9e ( pa/ g5]ations /ill p]si/s1 & z a consequ5ce ! yield p] acre is less ?an "o-half t ( ,am]ica4 ,moreov] ! acreage plant$ is only ab\t two-?irds t ( ,am]ica4 ,! bett] gr[?s ( ,ea/ ,indian cotton 7 once l>gely us$ 9 ?is c\ntry = fill+1 ow+ to _! good color & cleanl9ess2 b ( late ye>s ! consumption has /eadily decreas$1 ow+ *iefly to ! increas$ tak+s by ! ,indian mills1 also to ! exports to ,*9a & ,japan1 & to ! pref]5ce %[n by ,engli% sp9n]s = ,am]ican cotton4 ,egyptian ,cotton4 ,egyptian cotton1 on acc\nt ( its long /aple & silky gloss1 is import$ 9 consid]able quantities4 ,egyptian is l>gely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( hosi]y1 & also = mix+ ) wor/$ y>n4 ,ow+ to its gloss x is us$ = mix+ ) silk1 & on acc\nt ( its /r5g? x is made into ! f9] sew+ ?reads4 ,egyptian cotton is sometimes s *>g$ ) grease t x has a greasy smell2 & to make x workable x is necess>y to spr9kle x ) :it5+4 ,x has be5 obs]v$ t velvets wov5 7or pil$7 ) ,egyptian fill+ d n f9i% z well z :5 pick$ ) y>ns made f ,am]ican cotton1 ! reason = ?is be+ t ! greasy nature ( ! ,egyptian cotton fib] (t5 v>ies 9 /r5g?1 caus+ diff]5t %ades 9 ! f9i%$ goods4 ,?is greasy nature is said to be due to two ?+s3 7#a7 ! f]tility ( ! soil2 7#b7 ! ext5t to :i* ! cell walls ( ! fib]s are develop$4 ,9 addition to cotton1 o!r crops are gr[n 9 ,egypt--rice1 sug>1 beans1 b>ley1 onions1 etc4--& ! acreage devot$ to cotton is regulat$ to "s ext5t by ! prospects z to :i* crops are likely to pay be/4 ,x is calculat$ t n m ?an "o-?ird ( ! area is usually devot$ to cotton4 ,sea ,isl& ,cotton4 ,?is is ! f9e/ gr[? ( cotton1 & x comm&s ! highe/ price4 ,! /aple1 :i* is long & silky1 v>ies 9 l5g? f "o & a half to two & a half in*es4 ,x is us$ = mak+ f9e musl9s1 laces1 spool cotton1 & o!r fabrics1 & is also l>gely mix$ ) silk4 ,x is said t ?is cotton 0 fir/ introduc$ into ,am]ica 9 #aghf f ! ,bahama ,isl&s1 :i!r x _h be5 br\ght f ! ,we/ ,indies4 ,x 0 fir/ cultivat$ 9 ,georgia1 :]e x 0 f\nd t ! small isl&s runn+ along ! coa/ 7 be/ adapt$ = its gr[?1 h5ce ! "n ,sea ,isl&4 ,x 0 also gr[n on ! upl&s ( ,georgia1 b al?\gh rema9+ good1 ! quality det]iorat$4 ,c\nts z high z f\r hundr$ are occasionally spun 9 ,sea ,isl& cotton4 ,o!r ,v>ieties4 ,cotton gr[n 9 ! ,s\!rn ,/ates "u widely v>y+ conditions ( ! soil1 climate1 & c>e 9 cultivation1 naturally v>ies 9 l5g?1 /r5g?1 & o!r qualities ( /aple4 ,cotton kn[n z ,upl&s or ,b[$s v>ies 9 l5g? f ?ree-f\r?s to "o & "o-sixte5? in*es & is us$ = fill+2 ?is is gr[n 9 ,nor? & ,s\? ,c>ol9a1 ,georgia1 ,florida1 ,alabama1 & ,t5nessee4 ,cotton us$ = twi/ is gr[n 9 ,texas1 ,l\isiana1 ,mississippi1 & ,arkansas1 & ! l5g? ( ! /aple v>ies f "o to "o & ?ree-sixte5?s in*es4 ,9 ! swampy & bottom l&s 9 "s ( ! /ates 7notably ,alabama1 ,l\isiana1 ,mississippi1 & ,arkansas71 cotton is gr[n ) /aple rang+ f "o & "o-eigh? to "o & "o-f\r? in*es4 ,9 addition to ^!1 !re are especially long /apl$ gr[?s1 kn[n z ,extras1 ,all5 ,se$1 & ,peel]s1 :i* measure "o & ?ree-eigh?s to "o & five-eigh?s in*es4 ,( late !re has be5 an ext5sive dem& = long-/apl$ ,am]ican cotton 7"o & ?ree-sixte5?s to "o & "o-half in*es71 ow+ to ! developm5t ( f9e sp9n+4 ,cotton ,rais+4 ,cotton is plant$ ) a ma*9e1 :i* puts x "u ! gr\nd ab\t "o & "o-half to two in*es4 ,x is n plant$ z corn is1 t is1 dropp$ s f> ap>t1 b is plant$ 9 a cont9u\s /ream4 ,aft] ! cotton comes up out ( ! gr\nd1 :5 x is ab\t ?ree in*es high1 x is ho$ by ord9>y labor ) a hoe1 & is cut out or1 r1 ?9n$4 ,?is is call$ *opp+ out & is = ! purpose ( remov+ ! inf]ior or weak plants until only "o /rong plant is left4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! plants dep5ds on ! nature ( ! plant1 frequ5tly ab\t twelve in*es be+ left betwe5 !m4 ,! ,am]ican ,crop4 ,! fir/ /ep tak5 is ! prep>ation ( ! gr\nd = plant+4 ,?is beg9s 9 ! s\!rn "p ( ,texas z e>ly z ! middle ( ,janu>y1 9 ,florida ab\t ! ?ird week2 9 ,alabama1 ,georgia1 ,mississippi1 & ,l\isiana1 ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ,febru>y2 9 ,arkansas1 ,t5nessee1 & ,s\? ,c>ol9a f ab\t ! middle ( ,febru>y to ! beg9n+ ( ,m>*4 ,actual plant+ beg9s accord+ to latitude1 pr9cipally f ! middle ( ,m>* to ! middle ( ,april1 & ends 9 ! fir/ half ( ,may4 ,^! dates1 h[ev]1 are dep5d5t ^u ! /ate ( ! wea!r4 ,:5 ! wea!r is unusually wet ! />t is late4 ,! plant suff]s f ! rank gr[? ( grass & we$s1 & extra labor is requir$ to keep ! fields clean4 ,9 abnormally hot wea!r1 especially aft] ra9s1 ! plant %$s its leaves1 ?us expos+ ! bolls1 :i* fall (f1 :]eupon replant+ becomes necess>y4 ,9 addition to injuries by ! wea!r ! cotton-plant is subject to depr$ations by insects4 ,( late ye>s ! greate/ pe/ has be5 ! ,mexican boll weevil4 ,! cotton-plant blooms t5 or elev5 weeks aft] plant+4 ,an e>ly bloom is tak5 z a sign ( good crops4 ,:5 ! crop is an e>ly "o1 pick+ may comm5ce 9 ! di/ricts 9 :i* x rip5s fir/ 9 ! latt] half ( ,july2 b ! usual date is ! beg9n+ ( ,augu/1 foll[+ on 9 ! v>i\s di/ricts 9 succession until ! e>ly "p ( ,septemb]4 ,! plant goes on fruit+ z long z ! wea!r is mild & op54 ,x f9i%es 9 ! e>ly regions ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ,decemb]1 ! o!rs foll[+ ?r\gh ,decemb] & clos+ 9 ! lat] regions ab\t ! middle ( ,janu>y4 ,fro/s play an important "p 9 ! ultimate yield4 ,an e>ly kill+ fro/ ov] ! entire belt w\ld curtail ! size ( ! crop by #ejj1jjj bales 9 a season1 z 0 ! case 9 #aiji :5 ab\t #cb1jjj1jjj acres 7 plant$4 ,light fro/s & late fro/s d little h>m to ! cotton-plant2 9 fact x is cont5d$ t ! late fro/s d mu* good "u c]ta9 conditions ( ! crop1 by op5+ ! bolls t o!rwise w\ld n op51 & ?us add+ to ! quantity ( ! late pick+s4 ,! effect ( fro/ ^u ! l9t s pick$ is to produce t+$ & /a9$ cotton4 ,e>ly kill+ fro/s occur 9 "s seasons 9 ! e>ly "p ( ,novemb]1 :5 mu* ( ! yield may be curtail$4 ,:5 kill+ fro/s occur late 9 ! season1 :5 ! fruit+ is practically ov]1 x has little or no effect ^u ! yield except z reg>ds ! color4 ,! rip5+ ( ! crop proce$s 9 ?ree /ages1 ! bolls ne>e/ ! gr\nd matur+ fir/1 !n ^? ar\nd ! middle ( ! plant1 & la/ly ! top crop4 ,pods half ripe are (t5 =c$ op5 & ! fib] s5t on ) good cotton4 ,ea/ ,indian is m highly *>g$ ) unripe cotton ?an ,am]ican4 ,! "w ( pick+ is n heavy1 b becomes t$i\s f its sam5ess4 ,ea* h& z he goes to ! field is suppli$ ) a l>ge basket & a bag4 ,! basket is left at ! head ( ! cotton r[1 ! bag be+ susp5d$ f ! pick]'s %\ld] by a /rap1 & us$ to hold ! cotton z x is pluck$ f ! boll4 ,:5 ! bag is full x is empti$ into ! basket1 & ?is r\t9e cont9u$ ?r\gh\t ! day4 ,ea* h& picks f #adj to #ahj p\nds ( cotton p] day4 ,! av]age yield 9 ! ,s\? v>ies f #ejj to #fjj p\nds p] acre4 ,e boll ( cotton conta9s se$s resembl+ ungr\nd c(fee2 :5 ^! h be5 remov$ by ! g91 !re rema9s ab\t "o-?ird ! weight ( ! boll 9 clean cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pick+ ,,cotton ,g9n+4 ,! next op]ation to :i* cotton is subject$ is t ( g9n+1 or sep>at+ ! se$s f ! fib]4 ,?is "w 0 =m]ly accompli%$ by h&1 & s great 0 ! quantity ( se$s t frequ5tly an entire day 0 occupi$ by a workman 9 sep>at+ !m f "o p\nd ( cotton4 ,at ! pres5t day ! devices = sep>at+ ! l9t f ! se$ are ( two classes3 roll] g9s & saw g9s4 ,! =m] device is ! m anci5t1 hav+ be5 us$ f ! e>lie/ times by ! ,h9doos4 ,9 its simple/ =m x consi/s ( two roll]s made ( metal or h>d wood1 fix$ 9 rude frames1 ?r\gh :i* ! cotton is drawn & ! se$s =c$ out 9 ! process4 ,an improv$ =m ( ! roll] g9 is at pres5t us$ = clean+ ! long-/aple ,sea ,isl& cotton4 ,! saw g91 :i* works on an entirely diff]5t pr9ciple1 is ! ma*9e :i*1 ) its improvem5ts & modifications1 has sep>at$ ! se$ f fib] almo/ exclusively = "o hundr$ ye>s ( ,am]ican cotton gr[+4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! se$ cotton is f$ into a box1 "o side ( :i* is =m$ ( a grat+ ( metal /rips set close toge!r1 leav+ a n>r[ op5+ f "o-eigh? to a qu>t] ( an in* wide4 ,into ^! op5+s a r[ or gang ( ?9 circul> saws project m\nt$ ^u a revolv+ m&rel4 ,! long1 protrud+ tee? ( ! saws1 :irl+ rapidly1 cat* ! fib]s1 & pull !m away f ! se$s4 ,! latt]1 be+ too l>ge to pass ?r\gh ! op5+s ( ! grat+1 roll d[nw>d & out ( ! ma*9e4 ,! l9t1 remov$ f ! r[ ( saws by a revolv+ bru%1 passes betwe5 roll]s & is deliv]$ f ! ma*9e 9 ! =m ( a lap or bat4 ,?is ma*9e is responsible = mu* ( ! nep 7or knots7 f\nd 9 ,am]ican cotton1 :i* is caus$ :5 ! ma*9e is ov]*>g$4 ,! ,:itney g9 w turn ?r\gh m cotton ?an any o!r type ( ma*9e1 & w clean f #bjj to #cjj p\nds p] h\r4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is runn+ at high spe$ ! t5d5cy is to /r+ & knot ! cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,g9 ,! upp] figure %[s ,:itney's inv5tion4 ,! l[] figure %[s a lat] =m4 ,! work+ ( ! ord9>y g9 is z foll[s3 ,! wagon load$ ) cotton is driv5 "u a galvaniz$ sp\t call$ ! suck]1 ?r\gh :i* !re is a suction ( air :i* draws ! cotton into ! g9s4 ,9 ea* ( ! g9s !re are sev5ty circul> saws revolv+ on "o %aft4 ,^! saws are ab\t "o in* ap>t1 & ! tee? g ?r\gh ! g9 brea/1 mu* z if "o 7 to put ! tee? ( "o comb into ! tee? ( ano!r comb4 ,?is process takes ! l9t cotton (f ! se$1 & by ! use ( bru%es ! cotton goes into ! l9t flute1 into ! cond5s]1 & into ! box1 :]e x is revolv$ & made into a bale4 ,:ile ! l9t is go+ ?r\gh ?is process1 ! se$s1 be+ heavi] & small]1 draw to ! bottom ( ! g9s1 fall into an aug] :i* is op]at$ by a belt1 & !n are dropp$ into a conveyor & c>ri$ to ! se$ pile or h\ses4 ,! l9t goes 9 "o direction & ! se$ 9 ano!r4 ,:5 ! se$ is tak5 f ! cotton at ! g91 x is cov]$ ) a l9t ( cotton4 ,9 ord] to remove ?is ! se$s are put ?r\gh a del9t]1 :i* takes (f ! small1 %ort fib] f ! se$s1 leav+ !m clean4 ,?is se$ is !n put ?r\gh a hull] :i* takes (f ! outside hull or ?ick sk94 ,! k]nel is !n put ?r\gh a hydraulic press1 :i* squeezes ! cotton-se$ oil f x & leaves ! meal4 ,cotton-se$ oil is us$ = _m purposes1 su* z mak+ olive oil1 butt] or oleom>g>9e1 l>d1 etc4 ,( late an exp]im5t has be5 made ) ! meal = use 9 ! place ( fl\r1 & has be5 pron\nc$ a success4 ,se$ cru%+ has n[ become an important indu/ry1 ) ! cotton crop ea* ye> am\nt+ to betwe5 #ab1jjj1jjj & #ac1jjj1jjj bales ( #dej p\nds ea*4 ,! ,cotton ,g94 ,! cotton g9 0 inv5t$ 9 #agib by ,eli ,:itney1 a citiz5 ( ,georgia1 b a native ( ,massa*usetts4 ,! importance ( ?is inv5tion to ! cotton indu/ry ( ! _w _c be ov]e/imat$4 ,x 0 ! "o ?+ ne$$ to insure a suffici5t supply ( raw mat]ial to meet ! requirem5ts ( newly inv5t$ ma*9]y = sp9n+ & weav+4 ,! result ( ,:itney's inv5tion 0 ! rapid ext5sion ( ! culture ( cotton 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & its p]man5t e/abli%m5t z "o ( ! lead+ /aples ( ! c\ntry4 ,cotton ,bales4 ,aft] ! cotton is g9n$ & bal$ x is %ipp$ to ! mill4 ,! /&>d size ( a cotton bale 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates is #ed #bg #bg in*es1 & conta9s ne>ly #ejj p\nds4 ,to produce ?is bale ov] #a1fjj p\nds ( se$ cotton are requir$4 ,! bales are wrapp$ 9 jute bagg+ & /rapp$ ) %eet-iron b&s1 ?is cov]+ add+ ab\t tw5ty-five p\nds to ! weight ( ! bale4 ,! ,bessonette cyl9drical bale is turn$ out by a self-fe$+ press1 :i* receives ! lap ( l9t f ! g9 betwe5 two heavy roll]s4 ,! fib] is roll$ ^u a long wood5 spool s tightly z to press out ne>ly all ! air1 & =ms a package ( uni=m %ape & size ?r\gh\t1 hav+ a diamet] ( f\rte5 to sixte5 in*es4 ,! bales are cov]$ ) cotton clo?1 held 9 place by small wire hoops4 ,x is claim$ t ! cotton is roll$ s tightly by ?is process t ! bales are practically firepro( & wat]pro(4 ,egyptian bales are compress$ into a %ape simil> to ! ,am]ican bale1 b ! av]age weight is ov] #gjj p\nds4 ,! ,indian bales1 :i* are m closely compress$ ?an ! ,am]ican1 usually weigh #djj p\nds4 ,cotton is pur*as$ by ! mill au?orities 9 ! %ape ( a bale4 ,! me?od is to pur*ase f cotton brok]s1 samples be+ furni%$ to ! buy] f :i* to make selection4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/oreh\ses ,! comm]cial value ( cotton is det]m9$ by its l5g?1 f95ess1 /r5g?1 pliability1 smoo?ness1 regul>ity1 color1 & cleanl9ess4 ,z a rule1 ! cotton t is ! longe/ is also ! f9e/1 b by no means ! /ronge/4 ,?us1 ,sea ,isl& cotton has ! longe/ /aple ) ! lea/ diamet]1 & ,h+anghat 7an ,indian cotton7 is mu* inf]ior to x 9 bo? respects4 ,! /r5g? ( ! latt]1 h[ev]1 is #ej p] c5t great] ?an ! /r5g? ( ,sea ,isl& cotton4 ,9 e o!r respect ,sea ,isl& cotton is 9 advance ov] ,h+anghat cotton4 ,x is ! mo/ valuable1 especially = ! production ( f9e y>ns4 ,! mo/ regul> cotton is ,orleans1 9 :i* ! l5g? ( ! /aple v>ies only a small fraction ( an in*4 ,9 consequ5ce ( ?is !re is less loss 9 work+ ,orleans ?an is ! case ) ! o!r cottons1 ow+ to ! fact t _! fib]s v>y 9 l5g?4 ,! ,lead+ ,gr[?s ( ,cotton4 ,9 ord] to pur*ase ! raw mat]ial ( ! cotton manufacture1 to arrange ! mix+ or h mu* to d ) ! raw mat]ial 9 any o!r capacity1 "o %\ld "k z mu* z possible ( its *>act]i/ics2 = ignorance may cause mu* tr\ble & no little loss to ^? :o h to sp9 ! cotton4 ,ea* crop diff]s f ! previ\s "o to a great] or less degree1 z x dep5ds entirely ^u ! wea!r4 ,?us1 9 a v dry season !re is a dr\ghty crop :i*1 :ile x may be 7& g5]ally is7 clean & well up 9 class1 w be weak1 %ort1 & ( irregul> fib]4 ,9 ord] to obta9 ! desir$ l5g? & /r5g? ( /aple ! buy] w h to pay a relatively high] price ?an 9 :at may be t]m$ a normal season4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fancy ,,cotton ,,loom ,aga91 9 a crop t is poor 9 class1 a defect t may h be5 caus$ by too mu* ra9 9 ! e>ly or middle /ages ( its gr[?1 or by unfavorable wea!r = ! production ( cotton ( good grade1 ! /aple w probably be all t c\ld be desir$1 leafy & small1 b ! buy] w h to pay m to obta9 8 usual grade1 especially if he requires x = good fill+4 ,!n !re are seasons :5 ! crop turns out fairly well 9 class & /aple1 b ! cotton is wa/y1 dirty1 or abnormally leafy2 & 9 ?is case ! buy] has to ex]cise great c>e & judgm5t 9 calculat+ ! extra loss t w ensue4 ,! t]ms ( pur*ase ( cotton include an all[ance ( #d p] c5t = t>es4 ,t is1 a bale ( cotton weigh+ #djj p\nds w\ld be paid = z #chd p\nds1 or %\ld ! buy] h reason to believe t ! t>es are unusually heavy1 he has ! option ( claim+ ! actual t>e4 ,?is is asc]ta9$ by /ripp+ t5 bales & weigh+ ! cov]+ & ! hoops1 :i* means consid]able "w1 & al?\gh x is at ! option ( ! buy]1 x is an exception r ?an ! rule4 ,z a result ( ^! causes we f9d cotton divid$ into ! foll[+ grades3 ,full ,grades ( ,cotton4 ,egyptian cotton is grad$ z foll[s3 extra f9e1 f9e1 good1 fully good fair1 good fair1 fair1 middl+ fair1 middl+4 ,indian cotton is grad$ z foll[s3 sup]f9e1 f9e1 fully good1 good1 fully good fair1 good fair1 fully fair4 ,brazilian cotton may be class$3 f9e1 good1 good fair1 fair1 middl+ fair1 middl+4 ,am]ican cotton has sev5 grades3 fair1 middl+ fair1 good middl+1 middl+1 l[ middl+1 good ord9>y1 & ord9>y4 ,9 addition to ! full grades !re are half & qu>t] grades4 ,! ,am]ican cottons are grad$ z foll[s3 ,full ,grades4 ,half ,grades4 ,qu>t] ,grades4 ,fair1 ,/rict middl+ fair1 ,b>ely fair1 ,middl+ fair1 ,/rict good middl+1 ,fully middl+ fair1 ,good middl+1 ,/rict middl+1 ,b>ely middl+ fair1 ,middl+1 ,/rict l[ middl+1 ,fully good middl+1 ,l[ middl+1 ,/rict good ord9>y1 ,b>ely good middl+1 ,good ord9>y1 ,/rict ord9>y4 ,fully middl+1 ,ord9>y4 ,b>ely middl+1 ,fully l[ middl+1 ,b>ely l[ middl+1 ,fully good ord9>y1 ,b>ely good ord9>y4 ,! foll[+ are a few ( ! lead+ v>ieties ( cotton1 ) ! numb]s ( y>n !y w make3 ,cotton4 ,l5g?4 ,w>p4 ,fill+4 ,sea ,isl& 7select$7 #a-c_/d to #b-a_/d up to #bjj #bej to #cjj ,sea ,isl& 7ord9>y7 #a-c_/d to #b #aej #bbj ,florida ,sea ,isl& #a-c_/d to #b #aej #bbj ,georgia #a-a_/b to #a-g_/h #abj #ahj ,egyptian #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b #gj #abj ,peel] #a-a_/d to #a-c_/h #ej #gj ,orleans or ,gulf #a-a_/af to #a-a_/d #dj #fj ,upl& #a to #a-a_/h #cj #de ,texas #g_/h to #a-a_/af #be #ce ,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s consid]able discussion has tak5 place among mill m51 bo? 9 ?is c\ntry & abroad1 be>+ ^u ! subject ( moi/ure conta9$ 9 bal$ cotton4 ,( c\rse ! natural moi/ure 9 ! cotton fib] v>ies1 z might be expect$1 f ye> to ye>1 accord+ to ! "* ( ! season dur+ ! pick+4 ,! /&>d ( moi/ure is bas$ ^u :at is kn[n z rega91 t is1 if #ajj p>ts ( absolutely dry cotton are expos$ to ! air1 !y w absorb ab\t #h-a_/b p] c5t ( moi/ure1 al?\gh a mu* high] p] c5t is sometimes f\nd4 ,9 "s ( ! small ,s\!rn mills locat$ 9 ! cotton rais+ section1 ! cotton is deliv]$ by team direct f ! g91 )\t go+ ?r\gh ! compress4 ,9 ?is way !y save ! great] "p ( transportation exp5se4 ,!y also save 9 ! /r5g? ( ! cotton fib] itself1 s9ce ! process ( compression injures ! fib]4 ,!y get bett] cotton1 be+ ne>] ! s\rce ( supply & hav+ bett] opportunities = selection4 ,:5 ! cotton arrives 9 ! %ape ( a bale1 x is necess>y to cut ties & loos5 up ! cotton be=e use4 ,?is may be done 9 two ways4 ,"o me?od be+ to pull ! bale ap>t by h&1 & ! o!r to pass x ?r\gh a bale break] or simil> ma*9e1 :i* loos5s up ! cotton by means ( beat]s4 ,x n[ />ts on a cont9u\s j\rney ?r\gh successive ma*9es until x is made into y>n4 ,! y>n is made into a w>p1 & ! w>p int]lac$ ) ! fill+ y>n to make clo?1 & ! clo? f9i%$ = ! m>ket4 ,n e c\ntry is adapt$ = mak+ cotton y>n1 = c]ta9 conditions are necess>y to manufacture good y>n4 ,if ! atmosph]e is too w>m or too dry1 ! fib]s w become brittle & w n twi/ well2 if too wet !y collapse & /ick4 ,lanca%ire ,c\nty1 ,engl&1 seems to h be5 fitt$ by nature = cotton sp9n+4 ,x has j ! "r climate1 a moi/ temp]ature1 & copi\s wat] supply4 ,!re are hills on ! ea/ ( ! valley1 =m+ a wat] %$1 & ! t[n lies 9 a bas9 cov]$ ) a b$ ( /iff clay1 t holds ! wat]1 all[+ x to evaporate j fa/ en\gh to keep ! air 9 ! moi/ condition ne$$ to fit ! fib]s = weav+4 ,c\ntries t h n ^! conditions are oblig$ to produce !m by artificial means--humidify+1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pick] ,,room #a4 ,hopp] :]e ! cotton f ! bale is f$ into ,pick]4 #b4 ,lap %[+ h[ ! cotton is prep>$ = ! c>d4 #c4 ,pick] ,ma*9e 7complete74 ,,*apt] ,x ,,manufacture ,,( ,,cotton ,,y>n ,illu/ration3 ,,pick] ,,room--,,%[+ ,,end ,,view ,,( ,,pick] #a4 ,lap ( ,cotton4 ,pick] ,room4 ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! conv]sion ( ! bale ( cotton into y>n consi/s 9 giv+ ! cotton fib]s a ?or\gh clean+4 ,?is is accompli%$ by fe$+ ! cotton to a s]ies ( pick] ma*9es call$ 9 ord]1 bale break]1 cotton op5] & automatic fe$]1 break] pick]1 int]m$iate pick]1 & f9i%] pick]4 ,^! ma*9es pull to %r$s ! matt$ locks & wads ( cotton 7z we f9d !m 9 ! bale71 beat out ! dirt1 /ones1 & se$s1 & f9ally leave ! cotton 9 ! =m ( batt+ ^u ! cyl9d]s2 ?is batt+ passes f "o ma*9e to ano!r until x issues f ! f9i%] pick] z a d[ny roll or lap4 7,sometimes ! bale break] is n us$ 9 ! mill47 ,illu/ration3 ,,c>d ,,room #a4 ,rov+ ,c--receptacle to hold ! sliv]4 ,aft] x is fill$ x is transf]r$ to ei!r ribbon lap ma*9e or draw+ frame4 #b4 ,cyl9d] ( ! c>d4 ,! cotton is on ?is cyl9d] 9 ! =m ( a web4 ,c>d+ ,ma*9e4 ,:5 ! lap ( cotton leaves ! pick] x goes to ! c>d+ ma*9e1 :]e x is comb$ into p>allel fib]s by means ( a revolv+ cyl9d] cov]$ ) wire tee? call$ c>d clo?+4 ,z ! cotton is f$ to ! c>d 9 ! =m ( a %eet or lap f ! pick]1 x is suppos$ to h be5 fre$ f a consid]able quantity ( s&1 se$1 etc41 b !re /ill rema9 nep1 f9e leaf1 & %ort fib]s1 :i* are remov$ dur+ c>d+4 ,on leav+ ! c>d cyl9d] ! lap has become a gossam]-l web ?irty-n9e in*es broad4 ,?is web next passes ?r\gh small eyes1 :i* cond5se x into a n>r[ b& ab\t an in* 9 wid?1 kn[n z c>d sliv]4 ,:5 a lap is deliv]$ f ! f9i%] pick]1 x %\ld weigh a giv5 numb] ( ounces p] y>d4 ,! me?od ( asc]ta9+ ! weight is to make ea* lap a /&>d numb] ( y>ds 9 l5g? & weigh ea* lap4 ,! ma*9e c be regulat$ s z to give ! desir$ weight p] y>d4 ,comb+4 ,:5 an extremely f9e & /rong y>n is requir$1 9 addition to c>d+1 ! fib]s are also subject$ to ! process ( comb+4 ,?is may be said to be m]ely a cont9uation ( ! c>d+ process to a m p]fect degree4 ,! *ief object is to extract all fib]s bel[ a c]ta9 requir$ l5g?1 & ca/ !m aside z wa/e4 ,?is is done 9 ord] to secure ! v be/ fib]s calculat$ to give ! /ronge/ & be/ results 9 ! spun y>n4 ,! process ( comb+ foll[s c>d+4 ,! c>d deliv]s ! cotton 9 ! =m ( a sliv] or /r&1 :ile ! comb+ ma*9e requires ! fib]s to be deliv]$ to x 9 ! =m ( %eets1 n9e to twelve in*es wide4 ,?is is done by tak+ a numb] ( c>d sliv]s & =m+ a lap ( !m by pass+ ! sliv] ?r\gh a sliv] lap ma*9e4 ,! laps are pass$ ?r\gh ! comb]4 ,?is ma*9e consi/s ess5tially ( a s]ies ( roll]s1 nipp]s1 & r[s ( metal tee?4 ,by ! action ( ^!1 ! %ort fib]s are sep>at$ & comb$ out1 & ! long ones arrang$ 9 p>allel ord] 9 ! =m ( a ?91 silky /r&1 9 :i* condition x is s5t to ! draw+ frames to be drawn out4 ,( c\rse x mu/ be und]/ood t a comb+ ma*9e is us$ by only a small p]c5tage ( cotton sp9n]s4 ,= ord9>y purposes a suffici5tly good quality c be made )\t a comb]4 ,z !re is f #ae to #ce p] c5t wa/e to ?is op]ation x may be readily se5 t x is co/ly1 & limit$ entirely to ! production ( ! v be/ & f9e/ y>ns1 su* z ^? int5d$ = sew+ or ma*9e ?read1 f9e hosi]y1 lace curta9s1 und]we>1 imitation silks1 & f9e grades ( :ite goods4 ,!re are comb+ ma*9es t comb %ort /aple cotton4 ,draw+4 ,! cans conta9+ ! sliv]s are tak5 f ! c>d or comb+ ma*9e 7z ! case may be7 to ! draw+ frame4 ,! object ( ?is ma*9e is ma9ly to equalize ! sliv]s1 comb9+ a numb] ( !m toge!r s z to di/ribute ! fib]s uni=mly4 ,! condition ( ! fib]s on leav+ ! c>d or comb is su* t a slight pull w lay !m p]fectly /raight or p>allel1 & ?is pull is giv5 by ! draw+ frame roll]s4 ,( c\rse ! fib]s com+ f ! comb are p>allel1 b x is necess>y to alt]nate !m by ! draw+4 ,! draw+ frame is a ma*9e consi/+ ( a numb] ( sets ( roll]s1 ! front roll] hav+ a great] spe$ ?an ! re> ones4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,comb ,,room #a4 ,! cotton 9 ! =m ( a lap ready to pass ?r\gh ! comb4 ,! sliv]s1 :i* are z ne>ly z possible ! same weight p] y>d1 are comb9$ toge!r 9 ! draw+ & em]ge f ! pair ( front roll]s z "o sliv] weigh+ ! same numb] ( gra9s p] y>d z a s+le sliv] f$ up at ! back4 ,?is process is repeat$ two or ?ree times1 accord+ to requirem5ts1 ! mat]ial !n be+ ref]r$ to z hav+ pass$ ?r\gh s _m heads ( draw+4 ,x is n unusual to pass ,indian & ,am]ican cotton ?r\gh ?ree deliv]ies4 ,! object ( all ! processes ?us f> describ$ has be5 t ( clean+ 79 ! pick]71 arrang+ ! fib]s 9 a p>allel position to ea* o!r1 mak+ uni=m1 & draw+ out ! /ock4 ,9 e case ! /ock deliv]$ f a ma*9e is light] ?an :5 f$ into x1 & conta9s j twi/ en\gh to hold x toge!r & prev5t its be+ /ret*$ or /ra9$ :5 unw\nd f ! bobb91 & f$ into ! next ma*9e4 ,! m9imum am\nt ( twi/ 9 rov+ is desirable = ! reason t x p]mits ! /ock to be drawn out m easily & uni=mly1 ! little twi/ t is put 9 ! rov+ by ! slubb] be+ practically elim9at$ :5 x is pass$ ?r\gh ! rolls ( ! int]m$iate4 ,! same applies 9 ! case ( ! rov+ pass+ f ! rov+ to ! sp9n+ frame4 ,fly ,frames4 ,! process 9 ! manufacture ( y>n aft] ! cotton has pass$ ?r\gh ! draw+ frame consi/s ( fur!r att5uation ( ! sliv]1 b z ! cotton sliv] has be5 drawn out z mu* z is possible )\t breakage1 a small am\nt ( twi/ is introduc$ to all[ ( ! cont9u$ draw+ out ( ! sliv]4 ,f ! draw+ frame1 ! draw+ passes ?r\gh two1 ?ree1 or f\r fly frames1 accord+ to ! numb] ( y>n to be made4 ,all ^! ma*9es are id5tical 9 pr9ciple & con/ruction1 & diff] only 9 ! size ( "s ( ! work+ p>ts4 ,!y are ! slubb]1 int]m$iate1 rov+1--& f9e or jack frame-f9e1 & ! function ( ea* is to draw & twi/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rov+ ,,dep>tm5t #a4 ,slubb] ma*9e1 %[+ sliv] ( cotton pass+ ?r\gh ! rolls & !n giv5 a twi/ :ile x is w\nd on ! bobb94 ,int]m$iate ,frame4 ,! function ( ! int]m$iate frame is to receive ! slightly twi/$ rove f ! slubb] & add !reto a little m twi/ & draft4 ,! rove is tak5 f two bobb9s to "o sp9dle 9 ! ma*9e1 an arrangem5t :i* t5ds to insure /r5g? & uni=mity4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! ma*9e is 9 o!r respects ! same z t ( ! slubb+ frame4 ,rov+ ,frame4 ,! function ( ! rov+ frame is to receive ! twi/$ rove f ! int]m$iate & add m twi/ & draft1 !reby fur!r att5uat+ ! rove4 ,z 9 ! int]m$iate frame ! rove is g5]ally tak5 f two bobb9s = "o sp9dle4 ,f9e or ,jack ,frame4 ,?is ma*9e is us$ :5 f9e y>ns h to be made4 ,x is built on ! same pr9ciple z ! prec$+ frames1 ! only diff]5ce be+ t a f9] rove is made f :i* f9] numb]s ( y>n c be spun4 ,z 9 ! slubb]1 int]m$iate1 & rov+ frames1 ! rove is tak5 f two bobb9s = "o sp9dle4 ,sp9n+4 ,9 ! manufacture ( s+le ply y>n ! f9al process is t ( sp9n+1 :i* consi/s 9 draw+ out ! cotton rov+ to ! requir$ size1 & giv+ x ! prop] am\nt ( twi/ necess>y to make ! y>n ( ! requir$ /r5g?4 ,:ile ! sp9n+ frame is built on entirely diff]5t pr9ciples f ! rov+1 int]m$iate1 or slubb] frame1 ! object ( ea* ma*9e is ! same z t ( ! sp9n+ frame4 ,! pr9cipal po9t ( diff]5ce is ! am\nt ( twi/ imp>t$ to ! cotton rov+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rov+ ,,room #a4 ,a draw+ frame %[+ ! sliv] ( cotton pass+ ?r\gh ! ma*9e4 #b4 ,a slubb] %[+ ! sliv] pass+ ?r\gh & w\nd on bobb9s4 #c4 ,rov+ ma*9e %[+ ! cotton pass+ f "o bobb9 ?r\gh ! roll] to ano!r4 ,! objects ( ! sp9n+ process are3 #a4 ,completion ( ! draw+ out ( ! cotton rov+ to ! requir$ size4 #b4 ,ins]tion ( ! prop] am\nt ( twi/ to give ! ?read produc$ /r5g?4 ,excessive spe$ causes defects 9 ! y>n & undue we> & te> on ! ma*9e4 ,!re are two me?ods ( sp9n+3 r+ sp9n+ & mule sp9n+4 ,! mule sp9n+ is ! old] =m4 ,!re are b few mule frames 9 op]ation 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,mule ,sp9n+4 ,! function ( mule sp9n+ is to sp9 on ! b>e sp9dle1 or ^u ! %ort pap] tubes1 :5 su* are requir$ to =m a base = ! cop bottom4 ,! mule w sp9 any c\nts ( y>n requir$1 & is especially adapt$ = y>n 9 :i* ela/icity & cov] are ess5tials4 ,hosi]y y>ns are produc$ on ! ord9>y cotton mule & are v s(t spun4 ,! bobb9s ( rov+ are plac$ 9 a creel at ! back ( ! ma*9e1 ! /&s ( rov+ be+ pass$ ?r\gh ! rolls & drawn out 9 ! same mann] z at ! rov+ frame4 ,! sp9dles are m\nt$ on a c>riage :i* moves backw>d & =w>d 9 its relation to ! rolls1 ! di/ance rov$ be+ ab\t five feet4 ,:5 ! sp9dles are mov+ away f ! frame ! /ock is be+ deliv]$ by ! rolls1 ! spe$ at :i* ! sp9dles move away f ! rolls be+ j en\gh to keep ! ends at a slight t5sion4 ,! twi/ is put 9 ! y>n at ! same "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sp9n+ ,,room4 ,,cotton ,,dep>tm5t #a4 ,humidifi]--an app>atus to give (f moi/ure4 #b4 ,sp9n+ frames--%[+ ! cotton z x comes f ! rov+ frame & passes ?r\gh ! sp9n+ frame4 ,:5 ! sp9dles rea* _! greate/ di/ance f ! rolls1 ! latt] are automatically /opp$ & ! direction ( ! motion ( ! sp9dle c>riage rev]s$4 ,! y>n is w\nd on ! sp9dle :ile ! c>riage is be+ mov$ back t[>d ! rolls1 ! motion ( ! rolls be+ /opp$ 9 ! mean:ile1 ! sp9dles revolv+ only fa/ en\gh to w9d up ! ?read t has be5 spun dur+ ! outw>d move ( ! c>riage4 ,! mule is a mu* m complicat$ ma*9e ?an ! r+ frame1 its floor space is mu* great]1 & m skill$ help is requir$ = its op]ation4 ,"u ord9>y conditions x is n practical to sp9 f9] y>n ?an ,no4 #fjs on a r+1 :ile z high z ,no4 #ejjs is said to h be5 spun on a mule4 ,! same numb] ( y>n c be spun on a mule ) less twi/ ?an on ! r+4 ,?is is important 9 hosi]y y>n4 ,r+ sp9n+ is us$ = co>se numb]s1 & has great] production & requires less labor ?an mule sp9n+4 ,r+-sp9n+ y>n is us$ = w>p purposes4 ,r+ ,sp9n+4 ,! function ( r+ sp9n+ is to draw out ! rove & sp9 x into y>n on a cont9u\s sy/em4 ,! y>n made is spun ^u bobb9s4 ,! r+ sp9n+ diff]s f mule sp9n+ 9 hav+ ! c>riage replac$ by a r+1 f :i* ! ma*9e takes its "n4 ,! r+ is f "o & "o-half to ?ree in*es 9 diamet]1 groov$ inside & out1 & is connect$ ) a flat /eel wire %ap$ l ! lett] ,d1 call$ ! travell]4 ,its (fice is to con/itute a drag ^u ! y>n1 by means ( :i* ! latt] is w\nd ^u a bobb94 ,its size & weight dep5d on ! c\nts ( y>ns to be spun2 co>se y>ns dem& ! l>ge/ r+ & heavie/ travell]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mule ,,room #a4 ,/ocks f ,f9i%] ready to be spun ^u ! mule4 #b4 ,front ,roll]s ) weight lev]s4 #c4 ,cle>]s = ,front ,roll]s4 #d4 ,fall] %afts conta9+ ,sickles4 #e4 ,sp9dles4 #f4 ,spun ,y>n w\nd on cops4 #g4 ,cov]s = c>riage4 #h4 ,body ( c>riage4 #i4 ,draw+ out b&4 #aj4 ,"o ( ! :eels = ! c>riage4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,?read ,,& ,,cotton ,,f9i%+ ,?read4 ,9 g5]al a twi/$ /r& ( cotton1 flax1 wool1 silk1 etc41 spun out to consid]able l5g?1 is call$ ?read4 ,9 a specific s5se1 ?read is a comp\nd cord consi/+ ( two or m y>ns firmly unit$ by twi/+4 ,?read is us$ 9 "s k9ds ( weav+1 b its pr9cipal use is = sew+1 = :i* purpose x is compos$ ( ei!r silk1 cotton1 or flax4 ,?read made ( silk is te*nically kn[n z sew+ silk2 t made ( flax is kn[n z l95 ?read2 :ile cotton ?read int5d$ = sew+ is commonly call$ spool cotton4 ,^! di/9ctions1 :ile g5]ally obs]v$ by trade1 are n always ma9ta9$ by ! public4 ,! spool cotton ( to-day is ( a diff]5t grade f t made be=e ! sew+ ma*9e came into g5]al use4 ,! e>ly ?read 0 b ?ree cord1 & conta9$ su* a l>ge numb] ( knots1 ?9 places1 etc41 t x c\ld n be work$ satisfactorily on ! ma*9es1 s manufactur]s 7 call$ ^u to produce a ?read t w\ld be ( ! same ?ickness 9 e twi/4 ,?is 0 effect$ by mak+ ! ?read ( six cords in/ead ( ?ree1 !reby produc+ a smoo!r & m uni=m /r&4 ,manufactur+ ,processes4 ,! raw cotton = ! manufacture ( ?read mu/ be ( long /aple4 ,if ! fib] is %ort ! ?read made ( x w be weak1 & h5ce unsuit$ = ! purposes requir$ ( x4 ,ord9>y cotton is n adapt$ to ! manufacture ( ! bett] grades ( spool cotton on acc\nt ( ! %ortness ( its fib]4 ,egyptian & ,sea ,isl& cotton are us$ because !y h a mu* long] fib] & are s(t] 9 texture4 ,! raw cotton comes to ! factory pack$ 9 great bales1 & is usually /or$ away = "s mon?s be=e x is us$4 ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! conv]sion ( ! bale ( cotton into ?read consi/s 9 giv+ ! fib] a ?or\gh clean+4 ,?is is accompli%$ by fe$+ x to a s]ies ( pick]s :i* pull ! matt$ locks & wads to %r$s1 beat out ! dirt & se$s1 & roll ! cotton 9 ! =m ( batt+ ^u cyl9d]s until x issues f ! f9i%] lap ma*9es z a d[ny roll or lap4 ,! lap ( cotton !n goes to ! c>d+ rooms1 :]e x is comb$ into p>allel fib]s by means ( a revolv+ cyl9d] cov]$ ) f9e wire tee?1 sometimes #ij1jjj ( !m to ! squ>e foot4 ,on leav+ ! c>d+ ma*9es ! lap has become a gossam]-l web ?irty-n9e in*es broad4 ,?is web is next pass$ ?r\gh a small eye :i* cond5ses x into a n>r[ b& ab\t an in* 9 wid?1 kn[n z ! sliv]4 ,by ?is "t ! fib] has be5 s drawn out t "o y>d ( ! orig9al lap has become #cfj y>ds ( ! sliv]4 ,! sliv] n[ looks almo/ p]fect1 b if x 7 spun x w\ld n make good ?read4 ,x is necess>y to lay e fib] z ne>ly p>allel z possible1 s t !re w be an equal numb] ( fib]s 9 ! /r& p] in*4 ,besides ?is1 ! rema9+ dirt & %ort fib]s mu/ be remov$ & ! knots & k9ks 9 ! fib]s /raight5$ out4 ,to accompli% ^! objects ! cotton mu/ be comb$4 ,fir/1 ! sliv]s are pass$ ?r\gh sev]al sets ( roll]s1 ea* set mov+ fa/] ?an ! prec$+1 s t ! /r&s are drawn out f9e & ?94 ,9 ?is condition ! cotton passes to a d\bl+ frame1 & f !nce to ! lapp+ frame1 a device comb9+ six laps into "o & draw+ ! :ole out into "o f9e1 delicate1 ropy lap4 ,illu/ration3 ,,w>p ,,room #a4 ,beam on :i* ! w>p is w\nd4 #b4 ,w>p4 #c4 ,creel4 #d4 ,spools 9 ! creel4 ,! comb] n[ takes ! lap & combs out all ! impurities & %ort fib]s1 at a sacrifice ( ab\t "o-fif? ( ! mat]ial2 next1 x comb9es six ( ^! fluffy comb$ rolls ( fib] into "o4 ,a numb] ( ^! rolls are !n drawn out by ano!r ma*9e twelve times z long z !y 7 be=e & twi/$ toge!r on a slubb+ frame4 ,?is la/ draw+ r$uces ! roll to ab\t ! ?ickness ( zephyr y>n4 ,aft] be+ fur!r d\bl$ & twi/$1 ! y>n1 or roll1 is ready = ! mule sp9n]1 :i* accompli%es by means ( hundr$s ( sp9dles & :eels :at ! h\sewife once did ) h] sp9n+ :eel4 ,! mule1 h[ev]1 does ! "w ( m ?an #a1jjj h& sp9n]s & takes up mu* less space4 ,on ?is ma*9e #ijj sp9dles take ! y>n f #a1hjj bobb9s1 & by means ( accel]at+ roll]s & a c>riage draw out & twi/ x to ! prop] f95ess = ! size ( ?read want$4 ,hav+ pass$ ?r\gh ! complex processes ( cleans+1 comb+1 draw+1 & sp9n+1 ! cotton is n[ 9 ! =m ( y>n ( v>i\s sizes1 & ! real "w ( ?read mak+1 :i* is a di/9ct art f y>n mak+1 beg9s4 ,! ?read-mak+ process is briefly z foll[s3 ,! y>n is d\bl$ & twi/$2 !n ?ree ( su* y>ns are twi/$ toge!r1 :i* give ! six-fold comb9ation = six-cord ?read4 ,= a ?ree-cord ?read ?ree y>ns are twi/$ toge!r4 ,aft] ! twi/+ is complet$ ! ?read is reel$ into ske9s hav+ a cont9u\s l5g? ( #d1jjj to #ab1jjj y>ds1 accord+ to ! size1 & is !n s5t to ! exam9+ dep>tm5t :]e x is rigidly inspect$4 ,e /r& is look$ ov]1 & any f\nd to be defective are laid aside1 s t :5 ! ?read is put on ! m>ket x %all be z p]fect z c>e & skill c make x4 ,at ?is /age ( ! "w ! ske9s ( ?read are ( ! pale cream color common to all unblea*$ cotton goods1 & are te*nically kn[n z 9 ! gray4 ,!y !re=e h to be blea*$ pure :ite or dy$ 9 fa/ colors4 ,! ske9s1 :e!r int5d$ = :ite or color$ ?read1 are fir/ plac$ 9 l>ge1 /eam-tight iron tanks & boil$4 ,"h ! ?read rema9s subject$ to a furi\s boil+ = six or sev5 h\rs2 :5 remov$ x is p]fectly clean1 b /ill reta9s ! br[ni% gray color ( unblea*$ cotton4 ,x !n goes into a ba? ( *loride ( lime & is blea*$ z :ite z sn[4 ,! ske9s are next drawn ?r\gh an acid solution to neutralize ! *loride4 ,ano!r boil+1 ano!r blea*+1 a ba? ( soapsuds1 & ! f9al r9s+1 complete ! cleans+ & :it5+ process4 ,^? ske9s int5d$ = color$ ?reads are tak5 to ! dye+ room & plac$ 9 tanks fill$ ) suitably prep>$ dye+ solutions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,twi/+ ,,room #a4 ,humidifi]4 #b4 ,twi/] ma*9e4 #c4 ,boxes conta9+ spools ( cotton1 ready to be put 9 creel & =m w>p4 ,f ! blea*+ & dye+ dep>tm5ts ! ske9s ( ?read g back to ! mill to be w\nd on ! bobb9s1 & f ! bobb9s f9ally on ! small wood5 spools4 ,! automatic w9d+ ma*9es c be regulat$ to w9d any giv5 numb] ( y>ds4 ,! small spools are fa/5$ on pivots1 ! ?read f ! bobb9s fa/5$ on ! spools1 & ! ma*9es set 9 motion4 ,at ! requir$ numb] ( y>ds ! spools /op revolv+4 ,! ord9>y spool ( cotton ?read conta9s #bjj y>ds1 & :5 ?is has be5 w\nd on1 ! ?read is cut ) a knife by an att5dant1 :o also cuts ! little nick 9 ! rim ( ! spool & fa/5s !re9 ! end ( ! ?read4 ,?read mills commonly pr9t _! own labels1 & ^! are affix$ to ! spools by special ma*9]y ) rem>kable rapidity4 ,f ! label+ ma*9e ! spools g to an inspector1 :o exam9es ea* "o = imp]fections1 & any t are f\nd faulty are disc>d$4 ,:5 pack$ 9 pa/ebo>d boxes or 9 cab9ets ! ?read is ready = m>ket4 ,?read ,numb]s4 ,spool cotton = ord9>y use is made 9 sizes rang+ f ,no4 #h co>se to ,no4 #bjj f9e4 ,9 cotton y>n numb]+1 ! f95ess ( ! spun /r& is d5ot$ by ! numb] ( hanks1 ea* conta9+ #hdj y>ds1 :i* are requir$ to weigh "o p\nd1 z illu/rat$ 9 ! foll[+ table3 ,:5 #a hank ( cotton y>n 7 #hdj yds47 weigh #a lb4 x is ,no4 #a #aj 7 #h1djj yds47 #aj #af 7#ac1ddj yds47 #af #cj 7#be1bjj yds47 #cj #ej 7#db1jjj yds47 #ej #ajj 7#hd1jjj yds47 #ajj ,! e>ly manufactur$ ?read 0 ?ree cord1 & took its numb] f ! size ( ! y>n f :i* x 0 made4 ,no4 #fj y>n made ,no4 #fj ?read1 ?\gh 9 po9t ( fact ! actual calib] ( ,no4 #fj ?read w\ld equal ,no4 #bj y>n1 be+ ?ree ,no4 #fj /r&s comb9$ toge!r4 ,:5 ! sew+ ma*9e came into ! m>ket z ! great consum] ( ?read1 spool cotton _h to be made a smoo!r & m ev5 product ?an _h previ\sly be5 necess>y = h& ne$les4 ,?is 0 accompli%$ by us+ six /r&s in/ead ( ?ree1 ! y>ns be+ twice z f9e4 ,z ?read numb]s 7 already e/abli%$1 !y 7 n alt]$ = ! new article1 & consequ5tly at ! pres5t "t ,no4 #fj six-cord1 = example1 & ,no4 #fj ?ree-cord are id5tical 9 size1 ?\gh 9 reality ,no4 #fj six-cord is =m$ ( ,no4 #abj y>ns4 ,x is relatively smoo!r1 m ev51 & /rong] ?an ! ?ree-cord grade4 ,all sizes ( six-cord ?reads are made ( six /r&s1 ea* ( ! latt] be+ twice z f9e z ! numb] ( ! ?read z designat$ by ! label4 ,?ree-cord spool cotton is made ( ?ree /r&s ( y>n1 ea* ( ! same numb] z ! ?read4 ,siz+4 ,9 textile manufactur+1 siz+ is ! process ( /r5g!n+ w>p y>ns by coat+ !m ) a prep>ation ( />*1 fl\r1 etc41 9 ord] t !y may )/& ! weav+ process )\t *af+ or break+4 ,! op]ation ( siz+ is also (t5 resort$ to 9 f9i%+ c]ta9 classes ( cotton & l95 fabrics1 :i* are siz$ or dress$ ) v>i\s mixtures 9 ord] to create an appe>ance ( weight & /r5g? :]e ^! qualities d n exi/1 or1 if pres5t1 only 9 a small degree4 ,! object 9 siz+ w>p y>n be=e weav+ is to enable t process to be p]=m$ ) ! m9imum ( ?reads break+4 ,judici\s siz+ adds to ! /r5g? ( ! y>n by fill+ up ! spaces betwe5 ! fib]s1 & by b9d+ ! loose ends on ! outside ( ! ?read to ! ma9 "p4 ,9 ord] to accompli% ?is a numb] ( +r$i5ts are us$ 9 ! size prep>ation1 z no s+le mat]ial us$ alone gives satisfactory results4 ,! fill+ up ( ! m9ute spaces 9 ! y>ns & ! adhesion ( ! fib]s produce a smoo? ?read ) suffici5t h>dness to resi/ ! cont9ual *af+ ( ! %uttles1 re$s1 & h>nesses dur+ ! process ( weav+4 ,fl\r & />* 9 a liquid /ate are us$ = ?is purpose1 b ow+ to ! liability to mildew1 fl\r is n s mu* us$ z />*4 ,bo? ( ^! mat]ials1 h[ev]1 make ! y>n brittle1 & o!r +r$i5ts are comb9$ ) !m to ov]come ! brittl5ess4 ,= a s(t5] on heavy weight goods no?+ has be5 f\nd sup]ior to good beef tall[4 ,on light-weight goods ! s(t5] giv+ ! mo/ g5]al satisfaction is p>aff94 ,:5 prop]ly made ! size prep>ation is a smoo? mass ( uni=m consi/5ce1 free f lumps ( any k9d1 & f all s$im5t & odor4 ,/>*--! pr9cipal mat]ial :i* gives body to any size--requires ! mo/ c>eful treatm5t4 ,x is fir/ mix$ ) cold wat] into a smoo?1 creamy milk1 :i* is sl[ly p\r$ into ! necess>y quantity ( boil+ wat] until a cle>1 uni=m pa/e is =m$4 ,!n ! s(t5]s are add$1 su* z soaps1 oils1 & animal fats2 next a small am\nt ( gelat9e or glue is /irr$ 9 & "s =m ( pres]vative1 usually *loride ( z9c or salicylic acid4 ,! mass is !n ?or\ghly /irr$ 9 tilt$ jacket$ kettles ) me*anical /irr]s4 ,! size may be appli$ to ! y>n ei!r hot or cold4 ,:5 appli$ hot x p5etrates into ! int]ior1 fill+ up e space betwe5 ! fib]s1 b9d+ all toge!r1 & =m+ a h>d coat+ on ! surface ( ! ?read4 ,a ?or\gh wa%+ or /eam+ s]ves to remove all ! size f ! wov5 fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,,f9i%+ ,,room ,cotton ,f9i%+4 ,cotton fabrics1 l o!r textiles1 aft] leav+ ! loom mu/ be subject$ to v>i\s f9i%+ processes s z to br+ !m into comm]cial condition4 ,on piece-dy$ goods "p ( ! f9i%+ is done be=e & "p aft] ! dye+ process4 ,ea* class ( fabrics has def9ite f9i%+ processes4 ,9 "s cases weight+ mat]ials are add$ to ! fabric s z to hide m or less its actual con/ruction4 ,cotton fabrics j f ! loom pres5t a s(t & op5 /ructure1 m s ?an o!r textiles4 ,!re=e x is necess>y to use prop] f9i%+ mat]ials & processes :i* w fill up ! op5+s or int]/ices z produc$ 9 ! fabric by ! int]lac+ ( w>p & fill+1 & at ! same "t give to ! fabric a c]ta9 am\nt ( /iffness4 ,( c\rse ?is f9i% w disappe> dur+ we> or wa%+1 x hav+ be5 imp>t$ to ! fabric to br+ ! latt] into a salable condition4 ,cotton fabrics aft] weav+ may be subject$ to ! foll[+ sub-processes ( f9i%+3 ,inspect+1 ,burl+ & ,trimm+1 ,blea*+1 ,wa%+1 ,scut*+1 ,dry+4 ,aft] ! clo? leaves ! loom x is bru%$2 !n x passes ov] to ! inspection table 9 an upw>d rec$+ direction1 s t ! eye ( ! op]ator c readily detect imp]fections4 ,! ends ( two or m pieces z com+ f ! loom are sew$ into a /r+ = conv5i5t h&l+ 9 ! blea*+4 ,blea*+4 ,! object ( blea*+ is to free ! cotton f its natural color4 ,! anci5t me?od ( blea*+ by exposure to ! action ( ! sun's rays & frequ5t wett+ has be5 sup]s$$ by a m complicat$ process involv+ ! use ( v>i\s *emicals4 ,pieces ( clo? are tack$ toge!r 7sew$7 to =m "o cont9u\s piece ( f ?ree to "o ?\s& y>ds 9 l5g?4 ,! clo? is next pass$ ov] hot cyl9d]s or a r[ ( small gas jets to remove all ! f9e1 loose d[n f ! surface4 ,! goods are !n wa%$ & all[$ to rema9 9 a wet condition = a few h\rs1 aft] :i* !y are pass$ ?r\gh milk ( lime "u heavy pressure1 foll[$ by r9s+ 9 cle> wat]4 ,! goods are next sc\r$ 9 wat] acidulat$ ) hydro*loric acid1 & boil$ 9 a solution ( soda1 !n wa%$ z be=e 9 cle> wat]4 ,next !y are *lor9$ by be+ laid 9 a /one ci/]n conta9+ a solution ( *loride ( lime & all[$ to rema9 a few h\rs4 ,?is op]ation requires great c>e 9 ! prep>ation ( ! *loride ( lime1 = if ! smalle/ p>ticle ( undissolv$ blea*+ p[d] is all[$ to come 9 contact ) & rema9 ^u ! clo? x is liable to produce holes4 ,! goods are !n boil$ = f\r or five h\rs 9 a solution ( c>bonate ( soda1 aft] :i* !y are wa%$4 ,!y are aga9 *lor9$ z be=e & wa%$4 ,! long /rips are f9ally sc\r$ 9 hydro*loric acid1 wa%$1 & well squeez$ betwe5 metal roll]s cov]$ ) clo?4 ,aft] squeez+ & dry+1 ! clo?1 if requir$ = pr9t+1 ne$s no fur!r op]ation1 b if int5d$ to be m>ket$ 9 a :ite /ate1 x mu/ be f9i%$1 t is1 />*$ or cal5d]$4 ,/>*+4 ,! />* is appli$ to ! clo? by means ( roll]s :i* dip into a vat conta9+ ! solution1 :ile o!r roll]s remove ! excess4 ,sometimes ! clo? is artificially weight$ ) f9e clay or gypsum1 ! object be+ to r5d] ! clo? solid 9 appe>ance4 ,cal5d]+4 ,! clo? is n[ put ?r\gh ! cal5d]+ ma*9e1 ! object ( :i* is to give a p]fectly smoo? & ev5 surface1 & sometimes a sup]ficial glaze2 ! common dome/ic smoo?+ iron may be reg>d$ z a =m ( a cal5d]+ ut5sil4 ,! clo? is fir/ pass$ betwe5 ! cyl9d]s ( a ma*9e two1 ?ree1 or f\r times1 accord+ to ! f9i% desir$4 ,! cal5d] f9i%es may be class$ z dull1 lu/]1 glaz$1 wat]$ or moire1 & emboss$4 ,! cal5d] always flatt5s & imp>ts a lu/] to ! clo? pass$ ?r\gh x4 ,) consid]able pressure betwe5 smoo? roll]s a s(t1 silky lu/] is giv5 by equal flatt5+ ( all ! ?reads4 ,by pass+ two folds ( ! clo? at ! same "t betwe5 ! roll]s ! ?reads ( "o make an impression ^u ! o!r1 & give a wiry appe>ance4 ,! iron roll]s are sometimes made holl[ = ! purpose ( admitt+ /eam or gas 9 ord] to give a glaze f9i%4 ,emboss+ is produc$ by pass+ ! clo? "u heat$ metal roll]s ^u :i* are engrav$ suitable patt]ns1 ! effect ( :i* is ! reproduction ( ! patt]n ^u ! surface ( ! clo?4 ,m]c]iz+4 ,?is is a process ( treat+ cotton y>n or fabrics ) cau/ic soda & sulphuric acid :]eby !y are made /rong] & heavi]1 & giv5 a silky lu/] & feel4 ,! lu/] produc$ ^u cotton is due to two causes1 ! *ange 9 ! /ructure ( ! fib]1 & ! remov+ ( ! out] sk9 ( ! fib]4 ,! swell+ ( ! fib] makes x r\nd]1 s t ! rays ( light z !y fall ^u ! surface are reflect$ in/ead ( be+ absorb$4 ,! quality & degree ( lu/] ( m]c]iz$ cotton fabrics dep5ds l>gely ^u ! grade ( cotton us$4 ,! long-/aple ,egyptian & ,sea ,isl& cotton1 s twi/$ z to leave ! fib]s z ne>ly loose & p>allel z possible1 %[ ! be/ results4 ,if ! y>n is s+$ ! result is a fur!r improvem5t4 ,y>ns & fabrics con/ruct$ ( ! ord9>y grades ( cotton _c be m]c]iz$ to advantage4 ,! co/ ( produc+ high-grade m]c]iz$ y>n is ab\t ?ree times t ( an unm]c]iz$ y>n ( ! same c\nt1 spun f ! common] qualities ( cotton4 ,m]c]iz$ y>n is employ$ 9 almo/ e conceivable mann]1 n only 9 ! manufacture ( half-silk & half-wool fabrics1 & 9 lu/r\s all-cotton tissues1 b also 9 ! production ( figures & /ripes ( cotton goods hav+ non-lu/r\s gr\nds4 ,m]c]iz$ y>n us$ 9 connection ) silk is difficult to detect except by an exp]t eye4 ,*>act]i/ics ( a good piece ( ,cotton ,clo?4 ,a p]fect cotton fib] has little convolutions 9 x :i* give ! /rong twi/ & spr+ to a good ?read4 ,9 ?is respect ! ,sea ,isl& cotton is ! be/4 ,!re are five ?+s requisite = cotton clo? to be good1 viz43 #a4 ,! clo? mu/ be made ( good fib]1 t is ripe & long4 #b4 ,! fib] mu/ be c>efully prep>$4 ,all ! processes mu/ be well p]=m$--= ! v f9e ?read fib] mu/ be comb$ to remove poor fib]4 ,! comb+1 h[ev]1 is n always done4 #c4 ,! w>p & wo( ?reads mu/ be 9 good proportion4 #d4 ,! clo? mu/ be s(t1 s t x w n crease easily4 #e4 ,x mu/ be c>efully blea*$--! *emicals us$ mu/ n be /rong4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,knitt+ ,! art & process ( =m+ fabrics by loop+ a s+le ?read1 ei!r by h& ) sl5d] wires or by means ( a ma*9e provid$ ) hook$ ne$les1 is call$ knitt+4 ,cro*et+ is an analog\s art1 b diff]s f knitt+ 9 ! fact t ! sep>ate loops are ?r[n (f & f9i%$ by h& successively1 :]eas 9 knitt+ ! :ole s]ies ( loops :i* g to =m "o l5g? or r\nd are reta9$ on "o or m ne$les1 :ile a new s]ies is be+ =m$ on a sep>ate ne$le4 ,nett+ is p]=m$ by knott+ ?reads into me%es t _c be unravel$1 :ile knitt+ c be unravel$ & ! same ?read appli$ to any o!r use4 ,knitt+ is really c>ri$ on )\t mak+ knots2 ?us1 ! de/ruction ( "o loop ?reat5s ! de/ruction ( ! :ole web1 unless ! me%es are reunit$4 ,! pr9ciple ( knitt+ is q di/9ct f t ( weav+4 ,9 ! weav+ ( clo? ! y>ns ( "o sy/em cross ^? ( ano!r sy/em at "r angles1 ?us produc+ a solid1 firm texture4 ,! great ela/icity ( any k9d ( texture produc$ by knitt+ is ! *ief feature t di/+ui%es hosi]y f wov5 /uffs4 ,! nature ( ! loop =m$ by ! knitt+ ne$le favors elongation & contraction )\t m>r+ 9 ! lea/ ! g5]al /ructure ( ! goods4 ,build]s ( weav]s' looms h at times endeavor$ to secure ?is ela/ic effect by c]ta9 manipulations ( ! me*anism ( ! loom1 b z yet no?+ approa*+ ! product ( ! knitt] has be5 made4 ,! ela/ic feature ( a knitt$ texture r5d]s x peculi>ly adapt$ = all classes & k9ds ( und]g>m5ts1 = x n only fits ! body snugly1 b exp&s m readily ?an any o!r fabric ( simil> weight4 ,knitt+ ,ma*9es4 ,!re are v>i\s ma*9es = knitt+4 ,! circul> knitt+ ma*9e produces a circul> web ( v>i\s degrees ( f95ess1 & 9 sizes rang+ f a *ild's /ock+ to a man's ,no4 #ej und]%irt4 ,! circul> fabric made 9 ?is mann] has to be cut up & jo9$ toge!r by "s me?od to make a complete g>m5t4 ,! knitt+ frame = produc+ fa%ion$ goods makes a flat /rip1 n>r[+ & wid5+ x at c]ta9 places s z to con=m to ! %ape ( ! foot1 leg1 or body4 ,^! /rips !n h to be jo9$ by sew+ or knitt+ to =m a g>m5t4 ,fa%ion+ ma*9es are indisp5sable = knitt+ ! ,niantic & ,fr5* foot1 & also = ! production ( /ripes1 fancy op5work1 & lace hosi]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,knitt+ ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,hosi]y ,all pla9 ma*9es ( any class produce only pla9 knitt$ fabrics1 :ile ribb$ ma*9es make only ribb$ fabrics4 ,/ill1 _m g>m5ts 9 _! make-up include bo? k9ds ( knitt+2 !re=e1 _m ma*9es produce only c]ta9 p>ts ( p>ticul> g>m5ts4 ,9 ! case ( half-hose !re is frequ5tly a ribb$ top1 or 9 und]we> a ribb$ cuff1 & ^! may be made ei!r ( circul> web or full fa%ion$4 ,9 ea* case ! ribb$ portion is fir/ knit & !n transf]r$ to a pla9 ma*9e1 & be+ plac$ ^u ! ne$les is work$ on to ! re/ ( ! g>m5t4 ,9 "s in/ances ! heel is made by ! ma*9e work+ ! leg1 ?\gh !re are num]\s knitt]s specially design$ = turn+ out only ?is p>ticul> "p4 ,among o!r knitt+ ma*9es 9 mod]n use are ! draw]s ma*9e2 ma*9es = hose & half-hose ) app>atus = mak+ ! in/ep1 f9i%+ (f ! toe1 splic+ or ?ick5+ ! heels1 etc42 ma*9es = produc+ ! bottoms or soles ( hose sep>ately1 & also ! in/ep sep>ately2 circul> /ock+ ma*9es = produc+ a tubul> web aft]w>ds cut into suitable l5g?s = all v>ieties ( hose2 circul> sleeve ma*9es1 circul> body ma*9es1 z well z circul> web ma*9es = mak+ bo? body & sleeves ( und]%irts1 j]seys1 sweat]s1 etc4 ,special ma*9es are also made = knitt+ bo? pla9 & ribb$ plait$ goods1 t is1 ) bo? sides wool :ile ! c5t] is ( cotton1 or ) a silk or wor/$ face on "o side & ! back ( an inf]ior y>n4 ,9 ! =m ( auxili>y appliances are produc$ _m k9ds ( /it*+ ma*9es2 circul> lat*-ne$le ma*9es = pla9 ribb$1 mock seam1 & /rip$ goods2 /eam presses2 hose roll+ ma*9es2 hose cutt+ & welt+ ma*9es1 & _m o!r accessories to hosi]y manufacture4 ,illu/ration3 ,,knitt+ ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,und]we> ,at pres5t fully "o-?ird ( ! knit und]we> us$ 9 ?is c\ntry is ( ! ribb$ description4 ,x is made 9 all ! mat]ials t ! old] flat goods are compos$ (1 includ+ silk1 silk mixtures1 l951 wool1 lisle1 & cotton4 ,rib "w is ord9>ily /rong] & m la/+ ?an pla94 ,x is also invaluable = _m purposes on acc\nt ( its t5d5cy to contract & exp& 9 ! direction ( ! circumf]5ce )\t alt]+ its l5g?4 ,?is feature makes x indisp5sable = tops to socks & wri/ "w = %irts1 mitt5s1 gloves1 etc41 & = ! production ( heavy g>m5ts su* z c>digans & sweat]s4 ,! exp5se ( knitt+ rib "w is high] ?an pla9 knitt+1 ow+ to ! fact t ! ma*9es _c turn out s great a quantity )9 a giv5 "t4 ,! =mation ( ! rib 9 knitt$ goods is unique 9 its pr9ciple4 ,! effect is produc$ by rev]s+ ! /it*4 ,9 place ( mak+ ! /it* "w appe> entirely ^u "o side ( ! fabric1 z 9 pla9 "w1 ! ne$les are s arrang$ t e alt]nate r[1 or two r[s alt]nately1 are rev]s$1 ?us mak+ bo? sides alike4 ,pla9 "w is done ) a s+le bank ( ne$les1 :ile rib "w requires two banks1 ! function ( ! second "o be+ to pull & loop ! y>n 9 an opposite direction1 ?us produc+ a ?ick] & m ela/ic web4 ,d\ble "w 9 knitt+ consi/s m]ely 9 runn+ two ?reads :]e "o is commonly us$4 ,! "w is done readily & ) b little extra co/ = labor4 ,co>s] & heavi] ne$les are requir$1 also a wid] gauge = ! ne$le cyl9d]4 ,fancy effects 9 d\ble "w are produc$ by runn+ two colors in/ead ( "o4 ,! t5d5cy is = "o ?read to tw9e ab\t ! o!r1 ?us mak+ attractive d\ble-&-twi/ "w4 ,lumb]m5's socks & l goods are (t5 knitt$ on ?is plan1 ?\gh = ! mo/ "p d\ble "w is = ! heels1 toes1 & soles ( ord9>y hose4 ,/ripe ,knitt+4 ,! process ( /rip+ knitt$ fabrics is accompli%$ automatically by a sy/em ( *ang+ ! y>ns :5 deliv]$ by ! fe$s4 ,circul> ma*9es knitt+ a tubul> web _c be utiliz$ = ?is purpose1 h5ce ! "w is done on fa%ion+ or /ock+ frames4 ,x has only be5 )9 rec5t ye>s t mak]s ( knitt+ ma*9]y h be5 able to (f] ma*9es on :i* m ?an "o k9d ( y>n c\ld be knit at "o "t4 ,!re are n[ 9 use1 h[ev]1 ma*9es t w readily knit sev]al colors ( y>n at ! same "t4 ,knitt+ ,cotton4 ,a v>iety ( loosely twi/$1 f\r-ply cotton y>n1 dy$ 9 v>i\s pla9 & mix$ colors1 employ$ = knitt+ hosi]y1 tidies1 mats1 etc41 by h&4 ,x is numb]$ f #h1 co>se1 to #bj1 f9e1 & commonly put up sixte5 balls 9 a box1 ea* box conta9+ two p\nds1 manufactur]'s weight4 ,knitt+ ,silk4 ,a loosely twi/$ silk ?read ( dome/ic manufacture employ$ = knitt+ mitt5s1 /ock+s1 & o!r articles by h&4 ,x is also mu* us$ = cro*et "w4 ,knitt+ silk is put up 9 ! =m ( balls1 ea* conta9+ "o-half ounce ( ?read4 ,x is made 9 b two sizes1 ,no4 #cjj1 co>se1 & ,no4 #ejj1 f9e2 ea* ball ( ! =m] numb] conta9s #aej y>ds ( silk2 ( ! latt] #bej y>ds4 ,no4 #ejj is manufactur$ only 9 :ite1 cream1 & black2 ! ,no4 #cjj is fa/ dy$ 9 a great v>iety ( colors4 ,hosi]y ,manufacture4 ,accord+ to ! p>ticul> me?od by :i* socks & /ock+s are made1 ( :atev] k9d1 quality1 or mat]ial1 !y are class$ z cut goods1 seamless1 or full fa%ion$4 ,( ! ?ree me?ods ( manufactur+ ! fir/ nam$ is ! lea/ exp5sive4 ,cut goods are made ( r\nd webb+ knitt$ on :at is call$ a circul> knitt+ ma*9e4 ,! web has ! appe>ance ( a long roll ( clo? ab\t ! wid? ( a sock or /ock+ :5 press$ flat4 ,! fir/ op]ation consi/s 9 cutt+ (f pieces ! l5g? ( ! /ock+ desir$1 ^! l5g?s1 ( c\rse1 be+ ! same 7un%ap$7 f end to end4 ,! %ap+ ( ! leg is effect$ ei!r by cutt+ out en\gh ( ! /ock+ f ! calf to ! heel to all[ "p to be sewn up & %ap$ to fit ! ankle1 or by %r9k+4 ,9 ! heel+ room :]e ! pieces next g1 ! cutt]s are furni%$ ) gauges or patt]ns t indicate j :]e to make a slit = ! ins]tion ( ! heel1 g5]ally ( a diff]5t color4 ,:5 ! heel is sewn 91 ! /ock+ beg9s to assume its rightful %ape4 ,! toe is n[ put on & ! /ock+ is practically f9i%$4 ,9 ! case ( socks ! f9al op]ation consi/s 9 atta*+ ! ribb$ top1 :i* t5ds to draw ! upp] "p ( ! leg toge!r1 ?us caus+ x to assume a bett] %ape4 ,! f9al "w includes sc\r+1 dye+1 & %ap+4 ,! co/ ( mak+ cut goods is less by a few c5ts p] doz5 ?an :5 knit seamless4 ,:ile "s v cr$itable hose are produc$ 9 ?is way1 yet ! exi/5ce ( ! heavy seam is an objection :i* conf9es !m to ! poore/ class ( trade4 ,cut goods are made 9 all sizes & k9ds = m51 wom51 & *ildr54 ,seamless hose are made on a specially con/ruct$ ma*9e :i* produces ! entire /ock+1 b leaves ! toe piece to be jo9$ toge!r by a loop+ atta*m5t4 ,on half-hose ! leg is made ! same size d[n to ! ankle1 b on ladies' hose ! /ock+ is %ap$ some:at 9 ! ma*9e4 ,seamless hose are n1 /rictly speak+1 entirely seamless1 inasmu* z all /ock+s made on a circul> knitt+ ma*9e mu/ h a seam some:]e4 ,!re mu/ be a beg9n+ & an end+4 ,9 ! case ( ! /ock+ ! end+ is at ! toe1 & ! op5+ left c only be clos$ ) a seam4 ,9 "s mills ?is op5+ is automatically /it*$ toge!r on special ma*9es2 9 o!rs1 girls d x by h& ) ne$le & ?read4 ,nei!r by ma*9e nor h&work c ! op5+ be clos$ ) exactly ! same /it* z t made by ! ne$les ( ! p[] knitt]4 ,h[ev]1 ! seam is ( small proportions1 & :5 ! goods are sc\r$1 press$1 & f9i%$ ! pres5ce ( ! seam is a m9or item1 z x nei!r incommodes ! we>] nor m>s ! appe>ance ( ! /ock+4 ,seamless goods are made 9 a great v>iety ( qualities1 rang+ f cotton half-hose at fifty c5ts p] doz5 to ! f9e wor/$ /ock+s at #f4jj p] doz54 ,a notable & v comm5dable feature ( seamless hose is ! socket-l %ape ( ! heel1 :i* fits t portion ( ! foot z ?\gh really fitt$ to x4 ,z f> z com=t & fit are conc]n$1 ! manufacture ( seamless hosi]y has n[ rea*$ su* a degree ( p]fection z to br+ x second only to ! full-fa%ion$ v>iety4 ,full-fa%ion$ hose are produc$ by means ( complicat$ & exp5sive knitt+ frames1 :i* automatically drop ! requisite numb] ( /it*es at ! ankle s z gradually to n>r[ ! web d[n & give ! /ock+ ! natural %ape ( ! leg4 ,! toe is produc$ 9 ! same way1 & ! %ap+ ( heel & gusset is br\ght ab\t 9 l mann]4 ,h5ce1 ! goods are call$ full-fa%ion$1 because s fa%ion$ z to con=m to ! proportions ( ! leg & foot4 ,hose & und]we> made by ?is me?od are knit 9 flat /rips & !n seam$ ei!r by h& or ma*9e4 ,g5]ally special ma*9es are us$1 :i* take up & complete ! selv$ges1 ?us avoid+ objectionable seams ) raw edges4 ,! knitt+ frames us$ = mak+ full-fa%ion$ goods are l>ge1 intricate1 exp5sive1 & sl[ 9 op]ation2 !y are difficult to keep 9 ord] & require skilful op]ators4 ,! l>ge/ ones knit f f\rte5 to eighte5 /ock+s at once1 us+ z _m z f\r ?reads ( diff]5t colors 9 ! production ( patt]ns4 ,! fir/ op]ation consi/s 9 knitt+ ! leg d[n to ! foot2 !n ! legs are transf]r$ by exp]t workm5 to ano!r frame :i* knits ! foot4 ,next !y g to ano!r dep>tm5t :]e1 ) ! aid ( a special loop+ ma*9e1 ! heels & toes are /it*$ toge!r4 ,!n ! /ock+s or socks are h&$ ov] to exp]t wom5 op]ators1 :o seam up ! legs on a ma*9e especially adapt$ = ! purpose4 ,aft] be+ sort$ !y are tak5 to be dy$1 bo>d$1 /it*$1 dri$1 & f9ally subject$ to heat & pressure to give !m a f9i%$ appe>ance4 ,x usually requires two weeks f ! "t ! manufactur+ op]ations beg91 = a /ock+ to em]ge f ! factory 9 a f9i%$ =m4 ,full-fa%ion$ hose are made 9 all %ades & grades ( silk & cotton1 9 lisle ?read1 & 9 all k9ds ( ca%m]e1 m]9o1 & wool5 goods4 ,!y are likewise knitt$ pla91 ribb$1 & ) fancy /ripes & embroid]y effects4 ,9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates !re are num]\s important plants engag$ 9 ! production ( full-fa%ion$ goods1 :ile l>ge quantities are annually import$ f ,g]many & ,france4 ,f9i%+ ,process4 ,:5 socks & /ock+s are tak5 (f ( ! knitt+ ma*9es !y pres5t an unf9i%$ appe>ance1 be+ loose1 puck]$1 dirty1 & g5]ally %apeless4 ,sc\r+1 dye+1 %ap+1 & press+ s]ve to improve _! looks1 & ^! f9i%+ op]ations con/itute a di/9ct bran* ( ! indu/ry4 ,:ile /ill 9 a moi/ /ate ! hose are %ap$4 ,?is is effect$ by ! use ( =m+-bo>ds made ( wood & ab\t "o-half ( an in* 9 ?ickness4 ,! sock or /ock+ is c>efully /ret*$ ov] ! =m :ile damp1 & !n plac$ 9 a heat$ *amb] & all[$ to dry4 ,! goods assume ! %ape ( ! wood5 =m1 & w always hold x if ! "w has be5 c>efully & ?or\ghly done4 ,aft] !y h be5 tak5 f ! dry+ *amb] & ! bo>ds remov$ ! hose are press$ betwe5 heavy metal plates or roll]s1 look$ ov] = defects1 & :5 box$ or bundl$ are ready = m>ket4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,lace ,lace4 ,lace is ! "n appli$ to an ornam5tal op5 "w ( ?reads ( flax1 cotton1 silk1 gold1 or silv]1 & occasionally ( mohair or aloe fib]4 ,! latt] are us$ by ! peasants ( ,italy & ,spa94 ,lace consi/s ( two p>ts1 ! gr\nd & ! fl[]4 ,! ?reads may be loop$1 plait$1 or twi/$ 9 "o ( ?ree ways4 ,fir/1 ) a ne$le1 :5 ! "w is kn[n z ne$lepo9t lace4 ,second1 :5 bobb9s1 p9s1 & a pill[ or cu%ion are us$2 ?is is call$ pill[ lace4 ,?ird1 by ma*9]y1 :5 imitations ( bo? po9t & pill[ lace patt]ns are produc$4 ,special patt]ns = ^! laces date f ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! e>ly productions ( ! art _h "s analogy to weav+2 ! patt]ns 7 /iff & geometrical1 sometimes cut out ( l95 or sep>ately sew$ & appli$ to ! me%$ surface1 b m frequ5tly !y 7 d>n$ 91 ! /it*es be+ c\nt$ 91 z 9 tape/ry4 ,?is k9d 0 kn[n z d>n$ nett+4 ,) ! developm5t ( ! r5aissance ( art1 free fl[+ patt]ns & figure subjects 7 introduc$ & work$ 94 ,:e!r ( ne$lepo9t or pill[ make1 bo? ! ornam5t & ! gr\nd are produc$ by ! lace mak]4 ,ne$lepo9t is made by fir/ /it*+ ! net ) ?read along ! outl9e ( a patt]n drawn on pap] or p>*m5t1 ?us produc+ a skeleton ?read patt]n4 ,?is ?readwork s]ves z a f\ndation = ! diff]5t figures :i* are =m$ 9 ! lace4 ,bobb9 or pill[ lace m ne>ly resembles weav+4 ,! ?reads are fix$ ^u a circul> or squ>e pill[1 plac$ v>i\sly to suit ! me?ods ( manufacture 9 vogue 9 diff]5t c\ntries4 ,! object ( us+ ! pill[ is to prev5t too mu* h&l+ ( ! lace4 ,"o end ( ea* ?read is fa/5$ to ! cu%ion ) a p91 ! ma9 supply ( ?read be+ tw9$ ar\nd a small bobb9 ( wood1 bone1 or ivory4 ,! ?reads are twi/$ & plait$ toge!r by ! lace mak]1 :o ?r[s ! bobb9s ov] & "u ea* o!r4 ,! op]ation is fairly simple1 s9ce *ildr5 ( eight or n9e ye>s ( age c be tra9$ to x successfully4 ,x dem&s1 h[ev]1 consid]able dext]ity ) ! f+]s4 ,! design = pill[ lace mu/ ( c\rse be adapt$ to ! te*nical requirem5ts ( ! process1 & _c !re=e be ! same z "o = ne$lepo9t1 :i* has a bett] appe>ance & great] /r5g? ?an pill[ lace4 ,= ?is reason x 0 9 =m] times g5]ally pref]r$ = we> on occasions ( /ate4 ,on ! o!r h&1 pill[ lace has ! quality ( *>m+ suppl5ess1 & = use 9 mantillas1 veils1 & fi*us x is bett] ?an ne$lepo9t1 l5d+ itself ) delicate s(tness & graceful flexibility z a cov]+ to ! head & %\ld]s ( wom54 ,,lace ,,t]ms ,,def9$ ,al5on 7,po9t d'74--,f9e ne$lepo9t lace ) ! gr\nd ( d\ble-twi/ ?read 9 a semi-net effect4 ,is usually work$ ) horsehair on ! edges to give firmness to ! cordonnet4 ,call$ aft] ! city 9 ,france :]e x is made4 ,allov]4--,"n = all wide laces us$ = fl\nc+1 yokes1 & entire wai/s4 ,usually ! lace is ov] eighte5 in*es 9 wid?4 ,am]ican ,laces4--,a g5]al t]m =m]ly us$ to di/+ui% lace made 9 ?is c\ntry1 ! developm5t ( ! indu/ry hav+ n[ r5d]$ ! t]m ne>ly obsolete4 ,anglet]re 7,po9t d'74--,f9e ,brussels pill[ lace1 di/+ui%$ by a rib ( rais$ & plait$ ?reads work$ 9 ! lace4 ,%[n 9 floral1 orni?ological1 & geometrical designs4 ,antique4--,h&-made pill[ lace ( heavy l95 ?read 9 a l>ge1 op51 rectangul> knott$ me%4 ,us$ = curta9s1 b$ sets1 drap]ies4 ,antw]p4--,bobb9 lace1 resembl+ e>ly ,al5on4 ,%[s a pot--t is1 a vase or basket effect--9 ! design4 ,appliqu4--,any lace 9 :i* ! body & ! design are made sep>ately4 ,! body is usually silk & ! design cotton or l954 ,appliqu ,brussels4--,"n sometimes giv5 to ,brussels appliqu laces4 ,arabe 7,po9t d'74--,co>se bobb9 lace made 9 ,belgium & ,france z well z ,arabia4 ,%[s a l>ge1 bold patt]n1 cable edg$1 & is almo/ inv>iably 9 a deep cru tone4 ,us$ = curta9s & drap]ies4 ,arabian4--,same z above4 ,arg5t9e4--,simil> to ,al5on1 ! me% be+ a trifle l>g]4 ,arras4--,v /rong1 inexp5sive1 :ite bobb9 lace1 ( simple patt]n1 some:at resembl+ ,me*l94 ,di/+ui%$ by its light1 s+le ?read gr\nd4 ,nam$ aft] ! city 9 ,france :]e x is made4 ,aurillac4--,some:at resembles ,anglet]re4 ,bobb9 lace made 9 ,aurillac1 ,france4 ,auv]gne4--,any k9d ( bobb9 lace made 9 ,auv]gne1 ,france4 ,diff]5t makes & patt]ns4 ,ave ,m>ia4--,a n>r[ edg+ lace4 ,baby ,lace4--,light & simple edg+ lace made 9 ,engl&4 ,batt5b]g4--,same z ,r5aissance4 ,designs conf9$ to fl[] patt]ns4 ,bayeux4--,bobb9 lace1 usually an imitation ( ,spani% po9t4 ,also a black1 ri* lace made 9 l>ge pieces = %awls1 head sc>fs1 etc4 ,b9*e4--,f9e pill[ lace1 )\t cordonnet4 ,gr\nd resembles a spid]-web ) small dots4 ,made 9 ,b9*e1 ,belgium4 ,bisette4--,co>se1 n>r[ ,fr5* peasant lace 9 simple designs4 ,"n (t5 appli$ to *eap bord]+ laces4 ,blonde4--,s call$1 be+ orig9ally a bobb9 lace made ( unblea*$ silk1 ?\gh n[ %[n 9 black1 :ite1 & colors4 ,made ) two diff]5t sizes ( ?read2 f9e ?read = ! gr\nd1 co>se = ! design4 ,usually takes "s floral =m4 ,v lu/r\s4 ,bobb9 ,lace4--,imitation ( pill[ lace4 ,made 9 ,engl& & ,france4 ,bobb9et4--,! same4 ,bone ,lace4--,an obsolete t]m once giv5 to ,honiton bobb9 lace4 ,bone ,po9t ,lace4--,appli$ to laces hav+ no regul> gr\nd or me%1 su* z ,r5aissance4 ,bord] ,lace4--,practically synonym\s ) edg+4 ,b\rdon4--,a ma*9e lace made ( bo? silk & cotton4 ,%[ scroll-l patt]ns cable-edg$ on a regul> me%4 ,usually dy$ black1 b sometimes blea*$4 ,! outl9e is ( a heavy lu/r\s ?read4 ,us$ *iefly = dress trimm+ & mill9]y4 ,brettone4--,*eap n>r[ edg+4 ,bride ,lace4--,lace ) ! patt]n connect$ ) brides4 ,same z bone po9t lace4 ,brides4--,sl5d] ?reads connect+ diff]5t p>ts ( a patt]n4 ,brussels ,net4--,pla9 net made orig9ally 9 ,brussels1 b n[ produc$ 9 all lace manufactur+ c\ntries4 ,brussels ,pill[4--,f9e pill[ lace ) ! patt]ns jo9$ toge!r by little loops on _! edges4 ,brussels ,po9t4--,%[s an op5 patt]n1 made p>tly 9 op51 p>tly 9 clos$1 /it*1 giv+ ! appe>ance ( %ad+4 ,c>rickmacross4--,t9y ,iri% cambric drawn "w1 appliqu on net4 ,c>tisane4--,guipure or passem5t]ie made ) ?9 silk or gilt-cov]$ /rips ( p>*m5t4 ,*antilly4--,pill[ lace v simil> to blonde4 ,comes f ,*antilly1 ,france4 ,made 9 bo? silk & cotton & usually se5 9 black4 ,non-lu/r\s1 & looks z if made f black l95 ?read4 ,*iffon ,lace4--,*iffon embroid]$ 9 twi/ silk4 ,cluny4--,co>se-?read bobb9 lace1 made 9 bo? l95 & cotton4 ,%[s a close-/it* patt]n d>n$ on an op5 gr\nd4 ,us$ = dress trimm+s & ! manufacture ( curta9s4 ,cork ,lace4--,a sweep+ t]m us$ to designate all laces ( ,iri% make4 ,cotton ,lace4--,all lace made ( cotton4 ,craponne4--,*eap1 /\t ?read furniture guipure4 ,cro*et ,lace4--,any po9t lace made ) ! cro*et hook4 ,d>n$ ,lace4--,a compreh5sive t]m tak+ 9 all net effects ) ! patt]n appli$ 9 ne$lework4 ,devon%ire ,lace4--,lace made 9 ?is "p ( ,engl&1 & especially ,honiton imitation4 ,dieppe4--,f9e ne$lepo9t lace made 9 ,dieppe1 ,france4 ,resembles ,val5ci5nes4 ,made ) a regul> gr\nd ( squ>es ( small me%es alt]nat+ ) op5 squ>es ^u :i* ! patt]n is appli$ 9 close /it*4 ,du*esse4--,pill[ lace ) f9e net gr\nd ) ! patt]ns 9 rais$ "w1 volants1 & ! l4 ,dut* ,lace4--,practically a co>se ,val5ci5nes4 ,engli% ,po9t4--,see ,anglet]re4 ,escurial4--,heavy silk lace made 9 imitation ( ,rose po9t4 ,patt]ns outl9$ ) cable edge4 ,esprit 7,po9t d'74--,dott$ bobb9et ) ! dots ei!r s+ly or 9 clu/]s4 ,filet ,lace4--,any lace made ) a squ>e me% net4 ,flemi% ,po9t4--,ne$lepo9t lace made 9 ,fl&]s4 ,foot+4--,simple ins]tion ( ,brussels net f "o to ?ree in*es 9 wid?4 ,galloon4--,irregul> b& ) a fancy edge4 ,entire piece (t5 9 zigzag or scallop =m4 ,gaze 7,po9t de74--,flemi% po9t lace resembl+ po9t d',al5on1 ?\gh mu* s(t]1 be+ )\t horsehair4 ,gne 7,po9t de74--,op5work embroid]y made on a wool gr\nd :i* is aft]w>ds eat5 away by acid4 ,g5oa4--,heavy lace made ( aloe fib]4 ,ano!r "n = macram4 ,gimp4--,see ,guipure4 ,gold ,lace4--,gimp or braid cov]$ ) gold or imitation gold ?read4 ,grammont4--,:ite pill[ lace us$ = %awls & ! l4 ,black silk lace ne>ly resembl+ blonde4 ,guipure4--,fancy trimm+ ( wire cord :ipp$ r\nd ) silk or cotton ?reads1 & ! small patt]ns /it*$ toge!r4 ,guipure d',art4--,l95 net ^u :i* rais$ int]sect+ patt]ns are work$4 ,guipure de ,fl&]s4--,a pill[ lace made sep>ately1 hav+ fl[]s connect$ by b>s & brides4 ,h& ,embroid]$4--,heavy po9t lace1 usually ( ,plau5 manufacture1 ) fancy floral or o!r figures embroid]$ on ! design4 ,honiton4--,engli% bobb9 lace1 fam$ = ! beauty ( its designs4 ,nam$ = ! city :]e x 0 fir/ manufactur$4 ,n[ made 9 ,belgium1 ,holl&1 & ,france4 ,sprays sometimes made sep>ately1 & !n work$ on a net--,honiton appliqu4 ,honiton ,braid4--,n>r[ ma*9e-made braid ( ornam5tal oval figures connect$ by n>r[ b>s4 ,us$ = coll>s1 h&k]*iefs1 & tidies4 ,honiton ,guipure4--,l>ge fl[]-patt]n lace on v op5 gr\nd1 ! sprays held toge!r ) brides or b>s4 ,imitation ,lace4--,a t]m us$ to designate any ma*9e-made lace 9 contra/ ) h&-made4 ,ins]tion4--,any n>r[ lace ) a pla9 edge on ei!r side t admits ( its be+ ins]t$ 9 a fabric4 ,iri% ,cro*et4--,heavy h&-made lace1 rem>kable = ! beauty & di/9ctness ( its patt]ns1 & ! />tl+ :it5ess ( ! l95 ?read us$ 9 its manufacture4 ,iri% ,lace4--,a g5]al t]m us$ to designate all lace made by ! ,iri% peasantry4 ,iri% ,po9t4--,hybrid comb9ation ( appliqu1 cut "w1 & embroid]y on net ) elaborate ne$le /it*+ 9 ! high] grades4 ,iri% ,trimm+4--,simple1 wov5 lace1 us$ on :ite we>4 ,knott$ ,lace4--,frequ5tly ref]r$ to z knott+4 ,a fancy weave ( twi/$ & knott$ ?reads 9 close imitation ( "s old h& laces4 ,lille 7,also ,lile74--,fr5* lace nam$ aft] ! t[n :]e x is made4 ,some:at resembles ,me*l94 ,%[s a v cle>1 light gr\nd & is ! mo/ beautiful ( all simple ?read laces4 ,lim]ick ,lace4--,a =m ( embroid]y on net or musl94 ,luxeuil4--,a g5]al t]m = h&-made laces ( ,luxeuil1 ,france4 ,m specifically ^? ( a /\t1 heavy nature4 ,us$ = tidies1 curta9s1 drap]ies4 ,macram4--,knott$ h&-made lace1 made ( a v heavy cord4 ,%[n pr9cipally 9 geometrical designs4 ,v popul> 9 deep cru4 ,mal9e4--,f9e silk net4 ,sometimes also appli$ to ,me*l9 lace ) a diamond me%4 ,maltese4--,co>se ma*9e-made cotton lace1 resembl+ tor*on4 ,has no regul> gr\nd1 ! patt]ns be+ usually connect$ ) heavy /it* "w4 ,me*l94--,light pill[ lace ) ! patt]n outl9$ by a f9e b v di/9ct ?read or cord4 ,real ,me*l9 g5]ally has ! gr\nd patt]n wov5 toge!r1 ! latt] runn+ l>gely to fl[]s1 buds1 etc4 ,m$allion4--,s+le1 deta*$ patt]n4 ,m$ici4--,special k9d ( tor*on edg+1 ) "o edge scallop$4 ,mlange4--,h&-made silk pill[ lace1 %[+ a comb9ation ( conv5tional ,*antilly ) ,spani% designs4 ,mignonette4--,light bobb9 lace1 made 9 n>r[ /rips4 ,resembles tulle4 ,mirac\rt4--,sprig effects ( bobb9-lace appli$ on net gr\nd4 ,mexican ,drawnwork4--,little r\nd m$allions ei!r s+le or 9 /rips1 ! ?reads drawn to =m a c>t:eel4 ,mexican & ,t5]iffe drawnwork are practically ! same4 ,ma*9e imitations made 9 ,nott+ham1 ,calais1 & ,/4 ,gall4 ,motif4--,see ,m$allion4 ,n&uly4--,s\? ,am]ican fib]-lace1 made by ne$le 9 small squ>es1 :i* are aft]w>d jo9$ toge!r4 ,design v beautiful & ( rem>kable durability4 ,ne$lepo9t ,lace4--,see ,po9t ,lace4 ,norm&y ,lace4--,see ,val5ci5nes4 ,nott+ham4--,a g5]al t]m includ+ all ! ma*9e-made laces turn$ out 9 t great lace-produc+ c5t] ( ,engl&4 ,ori5tal ,lace4--,really an embroid]y1 be+ produc$ on ! ,s*iffli ma*9e1 ! patt]n be+ !n ei!r cut or eat5 out4 ,also appli$ to po9t d',arabe & c]ta9 filet effects4 ,oyah ,lace4--,a cro*et$ guipure %[n 9 ornate patt]ns4 ,passem5t]ie4--,a decorative edg+ or trimm+1 especially gimp or braid4 ,picots4--,inf9itesimal loops on brides & o!r /r&s4 ,pill[ ,lace 7,bobb9 ,lace74--,made on a pill[ ) bobb9s & p9s4 ,ma*9e-made imitations reta9 ! "n4 ,plau54--,appli$ to all laces emanat+ f t section ( ,saxony & includ+ imitations ( ne>ly all po9t laces1 :i* are embroid]$ on a wool gr\nd1 ?is be+ aft]w>d dissolv$ 9 acid & ! cotton or silk design left intact4 ,po9t de ,gaze4--,f9e gauze-l ne$le-lace4 ,po9t d',irel&e4--,co>se ma*9e lace1 made 9 imitation ( real ,v5etian po9t4 ,po9t de ,milan4--,a v>iety ( guipure1 hav+ a gr\nd ( small me%es1 & a patt]n consi/+ ( bold1 fl[+ scroll devices4 ,po9t de ,p>is4--,a v>iety ( *eap ma*9e lace1 cotton1 ( simple design4 ,po9t ,kant4--,flemi% pill[ lace1 ) a net gr\nd & ! design runn+ l>gely to pot effects--pot lace4 ,po9t ,lace4--,lace made by h& ) ne$le & s+le ?read4 ,ne$lepo9t ! same4 ,po9t d',al5on1 po9t de ,v5ise1 etc41 are all v>iations ( po9t lace & w be f\nd classifi$ "u _! initials4 ,po9t ,plat4--,po9t lace )\t rais$ design4 ,r5aissance4--,mod]n lace1 made ( n>r[ tape or braid =m$ into patt]ns1 held toge!r by brides1 ! brides =m+ subsidi>y designs4 ,batt5b]g is ! same ?+4 ,rep\ss4--,appli$ to ! design1 be+ a patt]n t has ! effect ( be+ /amp$ 94 ,rococo4--,italian lace1 be>+ ! rococo design4 ,rose ,po9t4--,see ,v5etian po9t4 ,seam+ ,lace4--,n>r[1 op5work ins]tion4 ,seville4--,v>iety ( tor*on4 ,spani% ,lace4--,a compreh5sive t]m4 ,conv5t-made1 ne$lepo9t lace4 ,cut drawnwork effects1 also conv5t-made4 ,ne$lepo9t lace 9 l>ge squ>es4 ,black silk lace 9 floral designs4 ,spani% ,po9t4--,anci5t embroid]y ( gold1 silv]1 & silk passem5t]ie4 ,swiss ,lace4--,swiss embroid]$ net 9 imitation ( ,brussels4 ,tamb\r4--,v>iety ( ,lim]ick4 ,tape ,lace4--,h&-made ne$le lace1 simil> to ,r5aissance4 ,?read ,lace4--,made ( l95 ?read1 z di/+ui%$ f cotton & silk laces4 ,tor*on4--,co>se1 op5 bobb9 lace ( /\t b loosely twi/$ ?read 9 v simple patt]ns4 ,mu* se5 9 imitations1 usually 9 n>r[ wid?s4 ,van ,dyke ,po9ts4--,appli$ to laces ) a bord] made 9 l>ge po9ts4 ,val5ci5nes4--,commonly call$ ,val4 ,bobb9 lace1 se5 mo/ly 9 *eap ins]tions & 9 ! =m ( n>r[ edg+s4 ,v5etian ,po9t4--,po9t de ,v5ise4 ,ne$lepo9t lace 9 floral patt]n ) ! designs v close toge!r & connect$ by brides ornam5t$ ) picots4 ,wood ,fib]4--,appli$ to all laces made ( wood silk4 ,yak4--,ma*9e-made wor/$ lace4 ,us$ = trimm+ = %awls1 petticoats1 & und]g>m5ts4 ,y\ghal4--,ne$lepo9t lace ( co>se ?read1 made exclusively 9 ,irel&4 ,ypres4--,bobb9 lace1 some:at co>s] ?an ,val4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,cotton ,,fabrics#af ,albatross4 ,cotton albatross clo? is a fabric made 9 imitation ( a wor/$ fabric ( ! same "n4 ,x has a fleecy surface4 ,! "n is tak5 f ! bird ^: d[ny brea/ ! f9i% ( ! fabric resembles4 ,! w>p is usually #bhs cotton1 ! fill+ #cfs cotton4 ,x is a pla9 weave4 ,fill+ & w>p c\nt #dh picks p] in*4 ,! goods are f9i%$ by be+ burl$1 %e>$1 wa%$1 s+$1 dy$1 r9s$1 dri$1 & press$1 c>e be+ tak5 n to press too h>d4 ,sometimes s+e+ is omitt$4 ,albatross clo? is g5]ally 9 :ite1 black1 or solid colors4 ,x is n (t5 pr9t$4 ,x is light 9 weight1 & is us$ = dress goods4 ,awn+4 ,a cotton clo? us$ z a cov] to %elt] f sun rays4 ,bati/e4 ,bati/e is ( ,fr5* orig91 & is a light1 transp>5t clo?1 made f a f9e quality ( comb$ cotton y>n4 ,!re is a gradual v>iation 9 quality rang+ f a comp>atively co>se to a v f9e fabric4 ,! v>iety ( qualities w sugge/ "s idea ( ! utility ( ! fabric4 ,its uses are ev5 m v>i$ ?an are ! qualities4 ,! f9] grades are us$ = dress goods & all k9ds ( l+]ie = summ] we>1 etc41 :ile ! *eap] grades are us$ = l9+s 9 wa%able & unwa%able %irt wai/s4 ,bati/e is wov5 9 ! gray1 t is1 ) y>n direct f ! sp9n+ frame1 ) ! exception t ! w>p y>n is well siz$1 9 ord] to /& bett] ! /ra9 to :i* x is subject$ dur+ ! weav+ process4 ,b\rrette4 ,a light weight1 s+le clo? fabric1 ) two-ply cotton w>p & wool or a comb9ation ( cotton & %oddy fill+1 made ) ! pla9 weave & 9 appe>ance a semi-r\gh-fac$ wool5 fabric ) fancy effects 9 twi/ scatt]$ ab\t x4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally = ladies' fall suit+s4 ,b$=d ,cord4 ,?is is "o ( ! mo/ popul> types ( fabrics1 ! di/+ui%+ effect be+ a l9e or cord runn+ l5g?wise ( ! clo?1 ! cord be+ m or less prom95t4 ,! clo? is made ( cotton1 or sometimes ( wor/$4 ,! face effect ( ! ,b$=d cord is g5]ally pla94 ,occasionally twill-fac$ cords are us$4 ,! cords v>y 9 wid? f ab\t "o tw5tie? to "o qu>t] ( an in*4 ,to get extra weight )\t alt]+ ! appe>ance ( ! face1 extra w>p y>ns1 t]m$ wadd+ ends1 are ins]t$ betwe5 ! face weave & ! fill+1 float+ at ! back ( ! rib4 ,:5 ^! wadd+ ends are co>se1 !y give a pron\nc$ r\nd$ appe>ance to ! cord4 ,!y run f #hh to #aef picks to an in*4 ,buckram4 ,buckram is d]iv$ f ,bokh>a4 ,x may be describ$ z a co>se1 glue-siz$ fabric1 & is made ( cotton1 hemp1 l951 or cotton & hair 7co>se7 y>ns1 usually f #ajs to #bes4 ,made ( a d\ble clo? w>p1 #bbs cotton1 #cd picks to ! in*1 = ! face or top fabric #a_/ab's#ag2 weight f loom #b4bb ozs4 p] y>d4 ,bottom fabric #a_/ab's cotton2 fill+ #a_/af's cotton2 #ab picks to ! in*4 ,weight p] y>d1 #a4h ounces4 ,^! fabrics dep5d a great deal on ! f9i%+4 ,! m5's we> requires less siz+ on acc\nt ( ! hair x conta9s4 ,! goods are piece dy$4 ,buckram is us$ pr9cipally = /iff5+ g>m5ts1 & to give !m %ape or =m4 ,x is plac$ betwe5 ! l9+ & ! surface clo? ( ! g>m5t 9 p>ticul> p>ts1 su* z ! lapels1 etc4 ,x is us$ 9 ! mill9]y trade1 & is made into hats4 ,mill9]y buckram is siz$ two or ?ree times4 ,calico takes its "n f ,calicut1 a city 9 ,india1 :]e clo? 0 fir/ pr9t$4 ,! majority ( inexp5sive cotton fabrics are con/ruct$ on ! "o up1 "o d[n sy/em1 or pla9 weave4 ,calico is no exception to ?is rule4 ,! pr9t$ designs on calicoes may be some:at elaborate or !y may be simple geometrical figures4 ,9 ord]1 h[ev]1 to comply ) ! true pr9ciples ( art1 su* fabrics z calicoes %\ld h b simple geometrical figures = _! ornam5tal features4 ,new /yles & comb9ations ( colors are produc$ e mon? & fa/] & light] color pr9t$ ea* season4 ,mo/ ( ! designs = calicoes & cotton clo? pr9t+ are made 9 ,p>is4 ,at pres5t ! /eam /yles are mo/ prom95t2 !y are ! fa/e/ & lighte/ to be obta9$4 ,calico is a pr9t$ clo?1 ! pr9t+ be+ done by a pr9t+ ma*9e :i* has a rotat+ impression cyl9d] on :i* ! design has be5 /amp$ or cut out4 ,! clo? 9 pass+ ?r\gh ! ma*9e comes 9 contact ) ! impression cyl9d]4 ,! cyl9d] revolv+ 9 a color tr\gh takes up ! color & leaves ! impression ( ! design on ! clo?4 ,calicoes may be se5 9 almo/ any color4 ,! pr9t+ ma*9e is capable ( pr9t+ sev]al colors 9 "o design4 ,calicoes1 h[ev]1 are usually 9 two colors1 t is1 "o color = gr\nd & ! o!r = figure4 ,! gr\nd color 9 mo/ cases is effect$ by dye+ ! clo? 9 "s solid color4 ,aft] ! clo? is dy$ ! design is pr9t$ on x4 ,! clo?1 aft] x comes f ! loom1 is s+$ & blea*$1 !n %e>$ & bru%$ to take away all ! l9t1 & !n s5t to ! dye h\se4 ,! fir/ process !re is to boil x1 aft] :i* x is imm]s$ 9 ! dye tub4 ,calicoes are usually giv5 :at may be t]m$ a *eap cotton dye4 ,by *eap cotton dye is meant t ! colors are n fa/1 b w run or fade :5 subject$ to wat]4 ,aft] ! fabric is dy$1 x is giv5 to ! pr9t]1 :o ornam5ts ! face ( ! clo? ) "s geometrical design2 !n x is practically ready = ! m]*ant4 ,aft] pr9t+1 ! clo? is dri$ & /eam$ to fix ! color1 aft]w>ds soap$1 wa%$1 f9i%$1 & fold$4 ,! pr9t+ ma*9e turns out ab\t #djj to #hjj fifty-y>d pieces a day4 ,calico is us$ = inexp5sive dresses1 %irtwai/s1 wrapp]s1 etc4 ,cambric4 ,cambric is a heavy1 glaz$ cotton fabric ) a smoo? f9i%4 ,x 0 fir/ made 9 ,cambrai1 ,france4 ,x has a pla9 weave & a wid? ( ?irty-six in*es4 ,cambrics are dy$ 9 a jig ma*9e4 ,aft] dye+ !y are run ?r\gh a mangle conta9+ ! siz+ sub/ance1 !n dri$1 damp5$1 & run ?r\gh a cal5d] ma*9e4 ,! glossy effect is obta9$ 9 ?is la/ f9i%+ process4 ,cambric is us$ = %irtwai/s1 dress goods1 etc4 ,! f9] grades are made f h>d twi/$ cotton ( good quality4 ,canvas4 ,?is is a t]m appli$ to heavy1 pla9 weave clo?s made ) ply cotton y>n4 ,!y are us$ = mail bags1 cov]+ = boats1 etc4 ,*ambray4 ,*ambray is a /aple fabric ( _m ye>s /&+1 be+ next 9 rank among cotton goods aft] ! bett] grade ( g+ham4 ,*ambray is a light-weight s+le clo? fabric t is always wov5 ) a pla9 weave1 & always has a :ite selv$ge4 ,9 effect x is a clo? hav+ b "o color 9 ! w>p1 & wov5 ) a :ite fill+1 ?is comb9ation produc+ a solid color effect1 ! :ite fill+ r$uc+ any h>%ness ( w>p color 9 ! clo?4 ,x is compos$ ( "o w>p & "o fill+1 ei!r all cotton1 cotton & silk1 or all silk4 ,x is tw5ty-sev5 to ?irty in*es 9 wid? & s+le #cjs cotton w>p to s+le #fjs silk1 ! c\nt ( y>n be+ gov]n$ by ! weight p] y>d desir$4 ,! weight p] f9i%$ y>d is two to ?ree & "o-half ounces4 ,good colors = ! w>p are navy blue1 d>k br[n1 lav5d]1 black1 nile gre51 etc4 ,:5 made ( cotton w>p & fill+ ! fabric receives a regul> g+ham f9i%4 ,! loom wid? c be re/or$ by t5t]+ or runn+ ! goods ov] a ma*9e fitt$ und]nea? ) a s]ies ( coils ( /eam pipe4 ,! top ( ?is ma*9e is fitt$ ) an endless *a9 ) a r[ ( /eel ne$les /&+ erect ^u its face4 ,*a9s are adju/$ to ! wid? desir$1 & z ! ma*9e runs1 bo? selv$ges are caught by ! ne$les & ! clo? /ret*$ to ! requir$ wid?4 ,*eese ,clo?4 ,?is is a ?9 cotton fabric ( light weight & l[ c\nts ( y>n1 :i* ranks among ! *eape/ 9 cotton goods4 ,x is us$ = innum]able purposes4 ,! blea*$ fabric is us$ = wrapp+ *eese & butt] aft] !y are press$4 ,x is also mu* 9 dem& = bunt+ = fe/ival occasions1 light curta9s1 masqu]ade dresses1 etc4 ,:5 us$ = bunt+1 drap]ies1 & ! l x is usually 9 colors1 r$1 blue1 cream1 & yell[ seem+ to h ! greate/ dem&4 ,! weave is "o & "o or pla9 weave4 ,*94 ,sometimes appli$ to glac silk1 or cotton two-ton$ effects4 ,! "n is ,fr5*1 mean+ wov5 s z to h a mottl$ effect4 ,*9tz4 ,pr9t$ cotton clo?1 ) l>ge1 _m-color$ designs1 us$ = furniture cov]+4 ,! ,h9doo we>s x z a body cov]+4 ,*9tz is ! ,h9doo ^w mean+ v>iegat$4 ,cotton ,flannel4 ,napp$ cotton flannel4 ,made fir/ = trade 9 ,canton1 ,*9a4 ,cra%4 ,a pla9 fabric = out+ suits1 t[els1 etc4 ,crpe4 ,a f9e1 ?9 fabric ( op5 texture made ( cotton4 ,crepon4 ,l>ge designs 9 figur$ crpe4 ,! "n applies to ! crisp9ess ( ! f9i% & is f ! ,fr5* ^w crp]1 to make crisp4 ,cretonne4 ,heavy cotton clo? pr9t$ 9 l>ge designs1 = drap]y & furniture use4 ,cretonne 0 a ,fr5*man :o fir/ made ! clo?4 ,cr9ol9e4 ,cr9ol9e is a fabric compos$ ( cotton w>p1 horsehair fill+1 or all cotton y>ns4 ,x is sold 9 v>y+ wid?s1 & is us$ by tailors & dress-mak]s 9 /iff5+ clo?+4 ,x is a *eap clo? ( l[ texture & simple con/ruction1 ! di/+ui%+ feature be+ ! /iff f9i% ) ei!r a dull or highly glaz$ face on ! clo?4 ,damask4 ,a clo? ( silk & cotton1 silk & l951 silk & wool1 or all l95 9 fl[]$ or geometrical designs = drap]y or table cov]+4 ,! weaves us$ are mo/ly twills & sate5s4 ,x takes its "n f ,damascus1 :]e x 0 fir/ made4 ,d5im4 ,?is is a /rong fabric usually made ) a two up & "o d[n twill4 ,x is us$ = ov]alls1 furniture cov]+1 & floor cov]+4 ,diap]4 ,a figur$ cotton or l95 fabric1 :i* gets its "n f ! ,greek diapron1 mean+ figur$4 ,x is g5]ally ( good quality z x is subject to excessive wa%+4 ,dimity4 ,a light-weight cotton fabric1 ! di/+ui%+ feature ( :i* is ! cords or ribs runn+ w>pwise ?r\gh ! clo?1 & produc$ by d\bl+ ! w>p ?reads 9 ei!r h$dle or re$ 9 suffici5t quantity to =m ! rib desir$4 ,! "n is f a ,greek ^w mean+ two-?read$4 ,dimity is a ladies' summ] dress fabric1 & is made ( regul> cotton y>n1 f #a_/fj's to ! f9e/ c\nts 9 bo? w>p & fill+4 ,x is made 9 bo? :ite & colors1 solid :ite be+ us$ 9 ! mo/ exp5sive grades4 ,colors are (t5 pr9t$ ^u ! face ( ! fabric aft] x has be5 wov5 9 ! :ite4 ,domet4 ,?is clo? is napp$ simil> to a cotton flannel4 ,x is us$ = %irts1 pajamas1 etc41 & made ) bright color$ /ripes & *eck patt]ns4 ,! "n is f dome/ic1 home made4 ,duck4 ,duck is a heavy s+le clo? fabric made ( co>se two-ply y>n & ( a pla9 weave4 ,x d]ives its "n f its resemblance to a duck's sk94 ,x is ( a light] weight ?an canvas4 ,9 f9i%+ duck is tak5 f ! loom & wa%$ & siz$1 !n dri$ & press$4 ,if a fancy solid color is desir$ ! goods are dy$ 9 ! piece aft] ! fir/ wa%+4 ,duck is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( sails1 t5ts1 c> curta9s1 & = any purpose requir+ a good wat]-tight fabric1 :i* w )/& r\gh usage4 ,duck has a /iff h>d feel1 & excell5t we>+ qualities4 ,! light] weights are us$ = ladies' %irtwai/ suits1 m5's :ite tr\s]s1 etc4 ,drill4 ,a cotton fabric ( m$ium weight g5]ally made ) ! two up & "o d[n twill4 ,x is ext5sively us$ = %oe l9+s4 ,eoli5ne is ! "n appli$ to a f9e dress fabric *>act]iz$ by hav+ ! fill+ ( a mu* co>s] c\nt ?an ! w>p1 ?us produc+ a cord$ effect across ! bread? ( ! goods4 ,?is class ( goods is made up ( a raw silk w>p & ei!r cotton or wor/$ fill+1 ) ! w>p ends p] in* greatly 9 excess ( picks p] in*4 ,! goods are made up 9 gray1 !n dy$ 9 ! piece 9 any color ! trade desires4 ,! d>k] %ades f9d mo/ favor = fall & w9t] use1 :ile ! light] %ades are pref]r$ = summ] we>4 ,! wid? is f tw5ty-sev5 to fifty in*es1 & ! price p] y>d v>ies f #he c5ts to #a4be4 ,etam9e4 ,an etam9e is a ?91 glossy fabric us$ pr9cipally = wom5's dress goods4 ,be+ a common & popul> mat]ial = summ] we>1 x is usually made z a piece-dy$ fabric4 ,a good reason = mak+ x piece-dy$ is t ?is me?od is mu* *eap] ?an if ! y>n is dy$ previ\s to ! weav+4 ,etam9es 7 orig9ally made ) wor/$ y>ns1 :i* ( c\rse are m exp5sive2 h[ev]1 if a good quality ( cotton is us$1 !re is little diff]5ce 9 appe>ance betwe5 wor/$ & cotton etam9e4 ,! diff]5ce is *iefly 9 ! we>+ quality1 wor/$ be+ m durable4 ,! pr9cipal *>act]i/ic ( an etam9e is a crisp1 glossy1 & op5 /ructure4 ,flannelette is a n>r[1 light-weight fabric compos$ ( all cotton y>n1 ! fill+ be+ s(t spun to p]mit ( ! rais+ ( a v slight nap on ! back ( ! goods4 ,! clo? is wov5 ) blea*$ y>n 7w>p & fill+71 ! color effects be+ aft]w>ds pr9t$ ^u ! face ( ! goods by ! pr9t+ ma*9e4 ,flannelette is made ) simple "o or two color$ /ripe patt]ns1 ei!r black & :ite or indigo blue & :ite1 & 9 imitation ( a ,jacqu>d patt]n4 ,! f9i%$ fabrics are sold by ! retail] at f eight c5ts to twelve & "o-half c5ts p] y>d1 are tw5ty-sev5 in*es wide1 & are us$ v ext5sively 9 ! manufacture ( ladies' wrapp]s1 kimonos1 etc41 = h\se we>4 ,fu/ian4 ,a cord$ fabric made on ! ord] ( corduroy & us$ 9 ,engl& = tr\s]+s1 etc4 ,fir/ made at ,fu/at1 a t[n on ! ,nile1 ne> ,cairo4 ,velvete5 & cord+s 9 ! l[]1 co>s] grades 7 sometimes call$ ,fu/ian4 ,galatea ,clo?4 ,galatea clo? has be5 some:at 9 dem& 9 rec5t ye>s by wom5 requir+ s]viceable & neat-appe>+ cotton fabrics at a m$ium price4 ,x is usually f9i%$ tw5ty-sev5 in*es wide & retails at f\rte5 c5ts to tw5ty c5ts p] y>d4 ,x is %[n 9 pla9 colors z well z 9 figures1 & 9 dott$ & /rip$ designs on :ite & color$ gr\nds4 ,! patt]ns are obta9$ by pr9t+4 ,"s manufactur]s h f\nd t !y c take a /&>d type ( fabric & ext5d its use by v>y+ ! process ( f9i%+4 ,! base ( ! clo?--t is1 ! fabric previ\s to dye+ or pr9t+ or blea*+--is no?+ m ?an an ord9>y #e-;end w>p sate5 ( fair quality4 ,gauze4 ,a veil+ net1 made 9 ,gaza 9 ,pale/9e4 ,g+ham4 ,g+ham is a s+le clo? compos$ entirely ( cotton1 & always wov5 ) a pla9 weave4 ,x is y>n-dy$ 9 /ripes or *ecks & 0 orig9ally ( ,indian make4 ,x is ! mo/ widely kn[n fabric on ! m>ket & is made 9 v>i\s grades1 hav+ f fifty to sev5ty-six ends p] in* 9 ! re$1 & ( #a_/bf's to #a_/dj's cotton y>ns 9 bo? w>p & fill+4 ,x is a wa% fabric1 made 9 bo? *eck & plaid patt]ns into :i* an almo/ unlimit$ v>iety ( color comb9ations are introduc$4 ,g+hams are made ) f two colors1 w>p & fill+1 to eight colors 9 w>p & six 9 fill+4 ,g+hams are us$ mo/ commonly 9 ! manufacture ( ladies' & *ildr5's summ] dresses & aprons4 ,italian ,clo? is a light1 glossy fabric made f cotton & wor/$1 cotton & wool1 cotton & mohair1 & all cotton4 ,x is us$ = l9+s = ! heavi] /yles ( ladies' dresses1 also = und]skirts1 fancy pill[ backs1 etc4 ,! clo? is wov5 9 ! gray undy$ y>ns4 ,9 ! f9] grades ! w>p is siz$ s z to facilitate ! weav+ process4 ,jaconet4 ,a ?9 cotton fabric1 heavi] ?an cambric4 ,if prop]ly made "o side is glaz$4 ,d]iv$ f ! ,fr5* ^w jaconas4 ,khaki4 ,twill$ cotton clo? ( a br[n du/ color1 fir/ us$ = m5's clo?+ 9 ,india4 ,! ^w khaki is ,indian = e>?1 or du/-color$4 ,lawn4 ,lawn is a light-weight s+le clo? wa% fabric1 weigh+ f "o & "o f\r? to two & "o f\r? ounces p] y>d1 & 9 wid?s f ?irty-six to =ty in*es f9i%$4 ,x is compos$ ( all cotton y>ns 7blea*$7 f #a_/dj's to #a_/ajj's1 & is always wov5 ) a pla9 weave1 "o up1 "o d[n4 ,! "n is f ,laon1 a place ne> ,rheims1 ,france1 :]e lawn 0 ext5sively made4 ,pla9 lawn is made ( solid :ite or blea*$ y>n 9 bo? w>p & fill+4 ,! fanci] grades1 or ^? hav+ color effects1 are produc$ by pr9t+ v9es1 floral /ripes1 small fl[]s1 etc41 9 bright colors 9 scatt]$ effects on ! face ( ! goods4 ,! patt]ns are always pr9t$1 nev] wov54 ,lawn1 :5 f9i%$1 %\ld h a s(t1 smoo? feel4 ,!re=e ! f9i%+ process includes bru%+1 v light />*+ or siz+1 !n cal5d]+ or press+4 ,lawns h to be h&l$ c>efully 9 ! blea*+ process1 />*$ ) an ord9>y />* mangle 7! siz+ conta9+ a little blue+71 f9i%$ on ! ,/5t] ma*9e1 & dri$ ) hot air4 ,lawns are (t5 t9t$ light %ades ( blue1 p9k1 cream1 pe>l1 gre51 & o!r light t9ts1 ) ! direct colors add$ to ! />*4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally 9 ! manufacture ( ladies' & *ildr5's summ] dresses1 sa% curta9s1 etc4 ,l+]ie4 ,?is relates to all sorts ( ladies' & *ildr5's und]g>m5ts1 su* z skirts1 und]skirts1 infants' %ort dresses1 *emises1 night robes1 draw]s1 corset cov]s1 etc4 ,l9on is a f9e1 closely wov5 pla9 fabric1 well kn[n = its excell5t we>+ & wa%+ qualities4 ,x is made f comb$ cotton y>ns ( long-/apl$ /ocks to resemble z closely z possible f9e l95 fabrics4 ,! clo? /ructure is firmly made 9 ! loom4 ,long ,clo? is a f9e cotton fabric ( sup]ior quality1 made ) a f9e grade ( cotton y>n ( m$ium twi/4 ,orig9ally ! fabric 0 manufactur$ 9 ,engl&1 & subsequ5tly imitat$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! fabric is us$ = infants' long dresses1 f :i* x d]ives its "n1 & = l+]ie4 ,long clo? to "s ext5t resembles bati/e1 f9e musl9s1 ,india l951 & cambric4 ,x is di/+ui%$ f ^! fabrics by ! clos5ess ( its weave1 & :5 f9i%$ ! fabric possesses a :it] appe>ance1 due to ! clos5ess ( ! weave & ! s(t twi/ ( ! y>n4 ,x is n us$ z a dress fabric1 *iefly because ( its f9i%$ appe>ance1 :i* is simil> 9 all respects to fabrics :i* we h be5 accu/om$ to see us$ solely = l+]ie1 nightg[ns1 etc4 ,madras is a light-weight s+le clo? fabric1 compos$ ( all cotton or cotton & silk1 & has excell5t we>+ qualities4 ,x 0 at fir/ a light-color$ *eck$ or /rip$ pla9-fac$ cotton-silk fabric1 made 9 ,madras1 ,india1 = sailors' head-dress4 ,x is tw5ty-sev5 in*es wide1 & is made ( v>y+ grades1 weigh+ f two to ?ree ounces p] y>d1 & is us$ at all seasons ( ! ye>4 ,x is us$ by ladies = summ] skirts1 %irtwai/s1 suits1 etc41 & by m5 9 %irts4 ,x is kn[n by ! :ite & color$ n>r[-/ripe w>p effects1 & is made ( cotton y>ns rang+ f #a_/bf to #a_/hj w>p & fill+1 & f #ej to #ajj or m ends p] in*4 ,! utility ( madras = ne>ly all classes ( p p]mits ! greate/ scope 9 creat+ bo? h>moni\s & contra/+ color & weave comb9ations4 ,! colors mo/ 9 dem& 9 ?is fabric are ri* & delicate %ades ( blue1 rose1 gre51 l951 tan1 lav5d]1 & bright r$2 = prom95t hair-l9e effects black1 navy blue1 d>k gre51 royal blue1 & *]ry r$4 ,good fa/ color is necess>y z x is a wa% fabric4 ,if inf]ior colors are us$1 !y w surely spread dur+ ! f9i%+ processes1 & w cause a cl\d$ /ripe :]e a di/9ct "o 0 int5d$4 ,more54 ,heavy mohair1 cotton1 or silk & cotton clo?1 ) wor/$ or moire face4 ,! mak+ ( more5 is int]e/+4 ,! undy$ clo? is plac$ 9 a tr\gh 9 z _m lay]s z w take ! f9i%4 ,?is f9i% is imp>t$ to ! clo? by plac+ betwe5 ! lay]s %eets ( manila pap]2 ! cont5ts ( ! tr\gh are !n saturat$ ) wat]2 a heavy weight$ roll] is !n pass$ ov] ! wett$ pap] & clo?1 ! movem5t ( ! roll] giv+ ! clo? a wat]$ face4 ,x c !n be dy$ & ref9i%$4 ,! design or m>k+ ( more5 is diff]5t on e piece4 ,more5 0 at fir/ made = uphol/]y & drap]y use4 ,x 0 f\nd to give a ru/l+ s\nd simil> to silk1 s 0 tak5 up = und]skirts4 ,! "n is f ! ,fr5* moire1 mean+ wat]+4 ,mull4 ,a s(t cotton musl9 ( f9e quality1 made fir/ 9 ,india1 lat] 9 ,switz]l&4 ,! "n 9 ,h9doo is mal1 mean+ s(t1 pliable4 ,mummy4 ,a pla9 weave ( flax or l95 y>n4 ,orig9ally ! w9d+ clo? ( ! ,egyptian mummifi$ dead4 ,musl94 ,a f9e cotton clo? ( pla9 weave orig9ally made 9 ,mosul1 a city on ! banks ( ! ,tigris1 9 ,asia4 ,na9sook4 ,na9sook is a light cotton fabric utiliz$ = v>i\s purposes1 su* z infants' clo!s1 wom5's dress goods1 l+]ie1 half curta9s1 etc4 ,! /rip$ & plaid na9sook are us$ = ! same purposes4 ,:5 ! fabric is requir$ = l+]ie & infants' clo!s ! ,engli% fabric is select$ because ( its s(tness4 ,:5 int5d$ = dress or curta9 fabric1 ! ,fr5*-f9i%$ fabric is *os54 ,! latt] f9i% consi/s ( slightly /iff5+ & cal5d]+ ! clo?4 ,! fabric may be di/+ui%$ f f9e lawns1 f9e bati/e1 & f9e cambric by ! fact t x has n z firm con/ruction or z mu* body1 & ! f9i% is n z smoo? or z /iff1 b incl9es to s(tness1 z ! fabric has n ! body to reta9 ! f9i%+ mat]ial4 ,org&ie4 ,an org&ie may be def9$ z a f9e1 transluc5t musl9 us$ exclusively = dress goods4 ,! fabric is made 9 a v>iety ( qualities z reg>ds ! c\nts ( y>n us$1 & 9 a v>iety ( wid?s rang+ f eighte5 to sixty in*es4 ,! pla9 org&ie is popul> 9 pure :ite1 al?\gh consid]able quantities are dy$ 9 ! solid colors1 pale blue1 p9k1 etc41 :ile ! figur$ org&ies are usually blea*$ pure :ite1 !n pr9t$ ) small floral designs4 ,! pr9t$ design is 9 f two to f\r colors1 & 9 delicate %ades 9 con=mity ) ! mat]ial4 ,org&ie consid]$ 9 relation to co/ z we>+ mat]ial is r exp5sive4 ,! reason = ?is is t x has a f9i% peculi> to itself1 s t :5 wa%$ x does n h ! same appe>ance z be=e4 ,x loses its crisp feel+ altoge!r4 ,osnaburg4 ,a co>se clo? ( flax & t[1 made 9 ,am]ica ( cotton1 9 *ecks or plaids1 & us$ = furniture cov]+ & mattress mak+4 ,! t[n ( ,osnaburg1 9 ,g]many1 made ! fabric fir/4 ,p]cale4 ,p]cale is a closely wov5 fabric made ) a good quality ( cotton y>n4 ,! f9] qualities are us$ = h&k]*iefs1 aprons1 etc41 & :5 us$ = ^! purposes are n pr9t$1 b blea*$ aft] ! fabric comes f ! loom4 ,p]cale is *iefly us$ = dress fabrics1 & :5 us$ = ?is purpose is g5]ally pr9t$ on "o side ) geometrical figures1 g5]ally black1 al?\gh o!r colors may be se54 ,! fabric is blea*$ be=e x is subject$ to ! pr9t+ op]ations4 ,p]cal9e4 ,p]cal9e is a highly f9i%$ & dress$ p]cale4 ,! fir/ process to :i* ! clo? is subject$ is to boil x (f1 t is1 to soak x 9 boil+ wat] s z to relieve x f =eign matt] t x may h ga!r$ dur+ ! weav+1 & at ! same "t to prep>e x = dye+4 ,aft] dye+ x is siz$ to /iff5 x1 & also to increase ! gloss on ! clo?4 ,aft] siz+ x is ready = ! cal5d]4 ,9 ord] to give x ! highe/ gloss ! clo? is d\bl$ l5g?wise or ! pieces are put toge!r back to back1 & z x passes ?r\gh ! rolls x is wet by /eam1 ! rolls be+ well heat$ & tightly set toge!r4 ,p]cal9e is us$ *iefly = fem99e we>+ app>el1 pr9cipally = l9+s1 petticoats1 etc4 ,^! purposes require t ! clo? %all be solid color1 ! d>k] colors be+ pref]r$1 z blue1 gre51 & black4 ,sometimes x is se5 9 light] %ades ( br[n & tan4 ,! mo/ att5tion is giv5 to ! f9i%+ process4 ,piqu4 ,piqu is a heavy cotton mat]ial wov5 9 cord$ or figur$ effects4 ,! goods are us$ = su* purposes z ladies' tailor-made suits1 ve/+s1 %irt fronts1 cravats1 b$spreads1 & ! l4 ,x 0 orig9ally wov5 9 diamond-%ap$ designs to imitate quilt+4 ,! "n is ,fr5* = quilt+4 ,! pla9e/ & mo/ common fabrics ( piqu are ^? 9 :i* ! patt]n consi/s ( /raight cords ext5d+ across ! clo? 9 ! direction ( ! weft4 ,9 ! con/ruction ( ^! fabrics1 bo? a face & back w>p are requir$1 & ! cords are produc$ by all ! back w>p ?reads be+ rais$ at int]vals ( six1 eight1 or m picks ov] two or m picks ( ! face clo?1 :i* has a t5d5cy to draw d[n on ! surface ( ! fabric4 ,! goods are always wov5 :ite & no colors are ev] us$4 ,! face w>p ?reads are g5]ally f9] ?an ! back w>p ?reads1 & are 9 ! proportion ( two ?reads = ! face & "o ?read = ! back4 ,on ! heavi] & bett] grades ( piqu co>se picks call$ wadd+ are us$ to increase ! weight1 & also to give m prom95ce to ! cord effect4 ,!y are introduc$ betwe5 ! face & back clo?s4 ,9 ! lighte/ & *eape/ grades nei!r any wadd+ nor back picks are us$4 ,9 ?is case ! back w>p ?reads float on ! back ( ! fabric except :5 rais+ ov] ! face picks to =m ! cord4 ,9 ! figur$ piqu ! b9d+ ( ! back w>p ?reads into ! face clo? is n done 9 /raight l9es z 9 pla9 piqu1 b ! b9d+ po9ts are introduc$ s z to =m figures4 ,^! fabrics are wov5 9 ! :ite1 & ! figures are purely ! result ( b9d+ ! face & back clo?s toge!r4 ,popl94 ,popl9 or popel9e is a "n giv5 to a class ( goods di/+ui%$ by a rib or cord effect runn+ wid? way ( ! piece4 ,x ref]r$ orig9ally to a fabric hav+ a silk w>p & a figure ( wool fill+ heavi] ?an ! w>p4 ,at ! pres5t "t x ref]s m to a ribb$ fabric ?an to "o made f any p>ticul> comb9ation ( mat]ials4 ,cotton popl9 is usually made ) a pla9 weave1 ! rep effect be+ obta9$ ei!r by us+ a f9e w>p z comp>$ ) ! fill+1 or a l>ge numb] ( ends z comp>$ ) picks p] in* on bo?4 ,iri% popl9 is a light-weight v>iety ( popl91 sometimes call$ s+le popl91 & is celebrat$ = its uni=mly f9e & excell5t we>+ qualities4 ,x is pr9cipally made 9 ,dubl94 ,plumetis4 ,%e] cotton or wool5 clo? hav+ rais$ dots or figures 9 relief on pla9 gr\nd4 ,! design %[s a fea!ry effect1 z 9 embroid]y tamb\r4 ,! "n is ,fr5* = ?is k9d ( embroid]y1 & is d]iv$ f plume1 ,fr5* = fea!r4 ,rep4 ,a fabric hav+ a surface ( a cord-l appe>ance4 ,! "n is probably corrupt$ f rib4 ,x is us$ 9 mak+ %irtwai/s & skirts4 ,sate54 ,twill$ cotton clo? ( light weight1 f9i%$ to imitate silk sat94 ,!re are two k9ds1 viz41 w>p sate5 & fill+ sate54 ,scrim4 ,op5 me% weave ( cotton or l95 = curta9s & l9+s4 ,! "n is f scrimp1 ref]r+ to economy 9 weav+4 ,silesia is a light-weight s+le clo? fabric1 hav+ a r high texture1 & weigh+ ab\t ?ree ounces p] y>d4 ,x is compos$ ( all cotton y>n1 & is us$ pr9cipally z a l9+ = ladies' & m5's clo?+4 ,silesia is wov5 ( y>n 9 ! gray /ate1 & is dy$ 9 ! piece 9 su* colors z black1 d>k blue1 br[n1 drab1 slate1 /eel1 etc4 ,an important feature is ! highly glaz$ or poli%$ face ( ! goods1 :i* is due to ! action ( ! heat$ roll] 9 ! cal5d]+ ma*9e ^u ! siz+4 ,s\ffle4 ,! l>ge/ designs ( crepon %[ a rais$ or puff$ appe>ance4 ,s\ffle is f ! ,fr5* & means puff$4 ,swiss4 ,f ,switz]l&1 :]e ! pla9 ,swiss net & figur$ cambric is a specialty 9 ! ,/4 ,gall di/rict4 ,tape4 ,tape is a n>r[ fabric compos$ ei!r ( cotton or l95 y>ns 9 w>p & fill+1 & usually made ) a po9t or brok5 twill weave1 ! break 9 ! weave occurr+ 9 ! c5t] ( ! tape1 & ! twill l9es runn+ 9 a "r- & left-h& direction4 ,x is us$ z a trimm+ 9 ! manufacture ( clo?+1 also z a b9d+ 9 innum]able cases1 & is sold by ! roll1 ea* roll conta9+ a c]ta9 numb] ( y>ds4 ,x is made ( all blea*$ & ( regul> y>ns ab\t #a_/bf's to #a_/cj's & #a_/dj's cotton4 ,t>letan4 ,an op5 me% ( co>se cotton1 us$ mo/ly 9 fruit pack+1 sometimes = dress & drap]y4 ,! "n is f t>lantanna1 ,milanese = co>se weave ( l95 & wool4 ,t]ry ,clo? or ,turki% ,t[el+ is a cotton pile fabric4 ,x is wov5 9 su* a way z to p]mit ! =m+ ( a s]ies ( loops on ea* side ( ! clo? 9 regul> ord]4 ,aft] leav+ ! loom ea* piece is laid sep>ately 9 ! blea*+ ki]4 ,!n ! goods are dri$ on a t5t] frame1 giv5 a light />*+ to add weight1 run ?r\gh a rubb] roll$ mangle & aga9 dri$ on a t5t] frame4 ,?is clo? is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( t[els1 ,turki% ba? robes1 etc4 ,turki% t[el+ is ! orig9al t]ry4 ,! "n is f ! ,fr5* tir]1 to draw or pull4 ,zephyr ,g+ham is ! f9e/ grade ( g+ham made & is a light-weight cotton fabric1 compos$ ( #a_/dj's to #a_/fj's cotton w>p & fill+ y>ns4 ,x is wov5 ) ei!r ! pla9 weave or a small all-ov] dobby effect4 ,x is made 9 attractive patt]ns by us+ good fa/ colors 9 w>p & fill+1 & z a clo? has excell5t we>+ qualities4 ,,footnotes3 #af ,?is in=mation is f ! lead+ au?ority1 ,! ,cotton ,fabrics ,gloss>y1 publi%$ by ! ,am]ican ,wool & ,cotton ,report]1 ,bo/on1 ,mass41 & is repr9t$ "h ?r\gh ! k9dness ( ,mr4 ,frank ,p4 ,b5nett4 #ag #a_/ab's cotton signifies s+le cotton y>n ( #ab's4 #b_/ab's cotton signifies two sets ( s+le cotton y>n ( #ab's twi/$ toge!r4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,flax ,flax4 ,flax or l95 occupies ! fir/ position 9 ! gr\p ( /em fib]s1#ah be+ n only ! olde/1 b next to cotton ! mo/ important vegetable sp9n+ mat]ial kn[n4 ,its value is increas$ by ! fact t ! flax plant readily adapts itself to v>i\s conditions ( soil & climate1 & 9 consequ5ce has ga9$ access to nor!rly di/ricts & cool highl&s4 ,al?\gh flax has lo/ "s ( its importance f ! successful competition ( cotton1 nev]!less x /ill =ms "o ( ! *ief articles ( an indu/ry :i* m]its all ! c>e be/[$ on its cultivation & proves highly pr(itable4 ,! ,physical ,/ructure ( ,flax4 ,flax1 :5 se5 "u ! microscope1 looks l a long1 cyl9drical tube ( uni=m ?ickness1 ) lum9a s small z to be visible only z /raight black l9es l5g?wise ( ! fib]1 & frequ5tly exhibits small transv]se cracks4 ,x is nev] twi/$ l cotton fib]4 ,its color v>ies f pale yell[ to /eel gray or gre5i% t9ts4 ,! diff]5ce 9 color is due *iefly to ! process ( rett+4 ,its av]age l5g? is ab\t tw5ty in*es1 & its t5sile /r5g? is sup]ior to t ( cotton4 ,x w absorb moi/ure1 #ab p] c5t be+ ! /&>d all[ance made4 ,flax is us$ = mak+ l95 ?read & clo?1 y>n1 twi/1 /r+ fabric1 & lace4 ,9 its composition x is almo/ purely an unlignifi$ cellulose1 & its specific gravity is #a4e4 ,flax is a bett] conductor ( heat ?an cotton1 h5ce l95 goods always feel cold] ?an cotton goods4 ,russia produces m ?an "o-half ! _w's supply ( flax1 b t f ,belgium & ,irel& is ( ! be/ quality4 ,italy1 ,france1 ,holl&1 & ,egypt are o!r important produc]s4 ,! plant is an annual1 ( delicate /ructure1 & is ga!r$ j be=e x is ripe1 ! prop] "t be+ indicat$ by ! *ang+ ( ! color f gre5 to br[n4 ,at ! "t ( ga!r+ ! :ole plant is uproot$1 dri$ on ! gr\nd1 & f9ally rippl$ ) iron combs1 to sep>ate ! /alks f ! leaves1 lat]al %oots1 & se$s4 ,! be/ fib] am\nts to ab\t #ge p] c5t ( ! /alk4 ,to sep>ate ?is valuable comm]cial product f ! woody matt] ! /alks are fir/ subject$ to a process t]m$ rett+1 :i* is /eep+ !m 9 wat] until !y are q s(t4 ,!n foll[ ! me*anical processes to fur!r ! production ( ! fib] & free x f all useless matt]4 ,^! are z foll[s3 #a4 ,cru%+ or ,beat+4 ,?is consi/s ( break+ ! woody matt] ) ! aid ( mallets or 9 /amp+ mills4 #b4 ,break+4 ,?is is pass+ ! /alks ?r\gh a s]ies ( horizontal roll]s to break fur!r ! woody matt] & at ! same "t sep>ate ! great] "p ( x f ! fib]4 #c4 ,scut*+4 ,! object ( ?is process is to remove completely ! woody matt]1 & x is done by means ( rapidly revolv+ wood5 arms or blades1 :i* beat ! firmly held flax until x is suffici5tly clean$ & sep>at$4 #d4 ,hackl+4 ,! scut*$ flax is drawn ?r\gh iron combs :i* /ill fur!r op5 ! fib]4 ,f95ess ( fib] dep5ds ^u ! numb] ( times x is hackl$1 ea* "t ) a f9] & f9] in/rum5t1 :i* secures ! diff]5t degrees ( subdivision4 ,!n ! fib]s are sort$ & classifi$ z to l5g? & quality & laid 9 p>allel =ms ready = sp9n+ & manufacture into l954 ,illu/ration3 ,,pull+ ,,flax ,,9 ,,m9nesota ,blea*+4 ,l95 is blea*$ 9 ! =m ( y>n1 ?read1 & clo?4 ,?is is a difficult & long process ow+ to ! l>ge am\nt ( natural impurities pres5t 9 flax fib]1 & ! difficulty ( remov+ or dissolv+ !m4 ,blea*+ is n[ done z a rule by *emical processes1 & :5 *emicals are us$ great c>e mu/ be tak5 ab\t _! /r5g? & ab\t ! "t ! clo? is all[$ to rema9 9 !m4 ,9 old5 times s\r butt]milk 0 appli$ to l95 & rubb$ 91 & !n blea*+ 0 f9i%$ out ( doors by sun & ra94 ,unblea*$ l95 is treat$ 9 ! same way z blea*$1 only ! process is n c>ri$ to su* an ext5t4 ,9 ,irel&1 fam\s = its blea*+1 *emicals are us$ 9 ! e>li] /ages ( ?is process1 & !n f9e l95s are spread out on ! grass to improve _! color1 & to purge !m completely ( any *emicals us$4 ,aft] blea*+1 l95 is wa%$1 dri$1 />*$1 & put ?r\gh heavy ma*9es to give x a glossy f9i%1 & x is !n made up 9 pieces = sale4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,good ,l954 ,l95 is not$ = its smoo?ness ( texture1 its brilliancy--:i* laund]+ increases--its we>+ qualities1 & its exquisite fre%ness4 ,! celebrat$ ,iri% l95 is ! mo/ valuable /aple 9 ! m>ket1 & on acc\nt ( its f95ess & /r5g?1 & p>ticul>ly its bright color1 x atta9s an unapproa*able excell5ce because ! be/ processes are us$ ?r\gh\t ! entire manufacture4 ,l95 is less ela/ic & pliable ?an cotton & blea*es & dyes readily4 ,flax f all c\ntries is wov5 into table l951 ?\gh v f9e l95 mu/ h c>efully prep>$ fib]4 ,l95 %\ld be s(t1 yield+1 & ela/ic1 ) almo/ a lea!ry feel4 ,f95ess ( l95 does n always det]m9e good we>+ qualities4 ,good l95 ranges 9 price f #ge c5ts to #c4jj4 ,iri% l95 has a good blea*4 ,fr5* & ,belgian l95s1 :ile f9e 9 ?read1 are n z s]viceable z ,iri% l954 ,g]many makes a good we>+ l951 b n a l>ge v>iety ( patt]ns4 ,scot* l95s are n[ us$ m ?an o!r k9ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/acks ,,( ,,flax ,,9 ,,belgium ,copyright by ,und]wood ,und]wood1 ,n4 ,y4 ,s\rces ( ,flax ,russia1 ,holl&1 ,belgium1 ,g]many1 ,irel&1 ,canada1 ,u4 ,s4 7= se$ only74 ,s\rces ( ,manufactur$ ,l95s ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,g]many1 ,au/ria1 ,belgium1 ,france1 ,russia1 ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,,manufactur$ ,,l95s ,damasks & ,napk9s ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,g]many1 ,belgium4 ,t[el+s ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,g]many1 ,unit$ ,/ates1 ,russia4 ,glass ,*ecks ,irel&4 ,canvas ,scotl&1 ,irel&4 ,h&k]*ief ,lawns1 ,cambrics1 & ,laces ,irel&1 ,g]many1 ,france4 ,t[els ,g]many1 ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,au/ria1 ,u4 ,s4 7union74 ,l95 ,%eet+s ,irel&1 ,belgium1 ,france1 ,scotl&4 ,bl\se or ,dress ,l95s ,irel&1 ,scotl&4 ,blea*$ ,wai/ ,l95s ,irel&1 ,france1 ,belgium4 ,fancy ,l95s1 ,doylies1 etc4 ,g]many1 ,france1 ,japan1 ,madeira ,isl&s1 ,isl& ( ,t5]iffe4 ,,footnote3 #ah ,! /em fib]s su* z flax1 jute1 ramie are call$ ba/ fib]s1 & be=e any ( !m c be utiliz$ indu/rially1 /eps h to be tak5 to r5d] !m free f gum4 ,:5 ! /ems ( ^! plants are sev]$1 ! juice t5ds to oxidize ?r\gh contact ) ! air & =ms a gum ( a peculi>ly t5aci\s "*4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,hemp ,illu/ration3 ,,load+ ,,hemp ,,9 ,,manila ,hemp is a fib] t is obta9$ f ! hemp plant4 ,x gr[s pr9cipally 9 ,russia1 ,pol&1 ,france1 ,italy1 ,asia1 ,india1 ! ,philipp9es1 ,japan1 & "s p>ts ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates--,k5tucky1 ,miss\ri1 ,t5nessee1 ,ohio1 ,indiana1 & ,new ,york4 ,! orig9al c\ntry ( ! hemp plant 0 d\btless ,asia1 probably t "p ne> ! ,caspian ,sea4 ,! prep>atory treatm5t is simil> to t = ! flax plant1 except t mo/ ( ! "w is done by ma*9]y4 ,consid]$ *emically1 9 addition to cellulose1 hemp fib] conta9s a consid]able am\nt ( woody matt]1 diff]+ 9 ?is respect f cotton4 ,its prop]ties are color 7pe>l gray1 ) gre5 or yell[ t9ts71 f95ess 7:i* dep5ds ^u ! quality ( ! hemp2 x is usually b\ght z f9e z flax71 & t5sile /r5g? 7:i* is consid]able & great] ?an t ( flax74 ,its be/ qualities are its slight lu/] & its ability to resi/ to a great ext5t ! t5d5cy to rot "u wat]4 ,ow+ to ! fact t x is difficult to blea*1 x is us$ *iefly 9 mak+ /r+1 cord1 ropes1 etc4 ,sisal ,hemp4 ,sisal hemp is a v>iety t gr[s ext5sively 9 ,c5tral ,am]ica & ! ,we/ ,indies4 ,! plant1 ! agava rigida1 is simil> to :at is kn[n 9 ?is c\ntry z ! c5tury plant4 ,! fib] is f\nd 9 ! leaves :i* closely surr\nd ! /alks4 ,! common hemp on ! o!r h& is f\nd closely surr\nd+ ! woody "p ( ! /em4 ,! fib] ( ,sisal hemp is obta9$ by scrap+ away ! fle%y "p ( ! leaves ) l>ge wood5 knives or by ma*9es4 ,manila ,hemp4 ,manila hemp is obta9$ 9 ! ,philipp9es4 ,! plant belongs to ! banana family & gr[s z l>ge z a small tree4 ,! hemp is obta9$ f ! leaf /alks :i* appe> to =m ! trunk ( ! tree4 ,! fib] is l>g]1 n s /iff1 b /rong] ?an ,sisal hemp4 ,! fib] ( ,russian hemp is ! /ronge/2 t ( ,italian hemp ! f9e/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,field ,,( ,,sisal ,,hemp ,jute4 ,jute is ! "n giv5 to ! fib]s f\nd 9 c]ta9 plants :i* gr[ pr9cipally 9 ,india1 & ! ,ea/ ,indian ,isl&s4 ,! common jute comes pr9cipally f ! prov9ce ( ,b5gal1 ,india1 :]e x 0 fir/ kn[n to sci5ce 9 #agbe4 ,! t]m jute 0 fir/ appli$ to ! fib] by ,dr4 ,rosburgh 9 #agie4 ,! plant is cut j ab\t ! "t :5 x appe>s 9 full fl[]4 ,! /alks are !n bundl$ & rett$ by /eep+ 9 pools ( /agnant wat]4 ,jute occupies ?ird position 9 importance ( vegetable fib]s 9 ! manufactur+ scale1 be+ inf]ior to cotton & flax4 ,hemp is /rong] ?an jute4 ,jute becomes weak :5 expos$ to dampness4 ,x is ext5sively us$ = mix+ ) silk1 cotton1 flax1 hemp1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,! co>se v>ieties are made into co>se fabrics--sacks1 pack+ clo?1 etc41 :ile ! f9] v>ieties1 9 :i* ! undesirable quality ( gr[+ d>k] ) age is less app>5t1 are us$ = mak+ c>pets1 curta9s1 & heavy plu%es1 = :i* !y are v suitable4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,silk ,silk4 ,! silk ( comm]ce is obta9$ f ! cocoons ( sev]al species ( insects4 ,^! insects resemble /rongly ! ord9>y cat]pill>s4 ,at a c]ta9 p]iod ( its exi/5ce ! silkworm gives (f a secretion ( jelly-l sub/ance4 ,?is h>d5s on exposure to ! air z ! worm =ces x out & w9ds x ab\t its body4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mo?1 ,,silkworm1 ,,& ,,cocoons ,x takes ab\t ?ree days = ! worm to =m ! cocoon4 ,aft] ! cocoon has be5 =m$ ! silkworm passes f ! =m ( a cat]pill> into a mo? :i* cuts an op5+ ?r\gh ! cocoon & flies away4 ,x is v important t ! mo? %\ld n be all[$ to escape f ! cocoon2 ! m]e break+ ( ! cocoon greatly decreases ! value ( ! ?read4 ,! cocoon is pres]v$ by kill+ ! *rysalis by heat4 ,!re are a great _m v>ieties ( cat]pill>s1 b few ( !m secrete a suffici5t quantity ( silk to r5d] !m ( comm]cial value4 ,! pr9cipal species is ! mulb]ry silkworm :i* produces mo/ ( ! silk 9 comm]ce4 ,x is cultivat$ & f$ on mulb]ry leaves4 ,!re are o!r v>ieties ( silkworms t are n capable ( be+ cultivat$ & are call$ wild silkworms4 ,! silk produc$ by ! wild worms ( ,*9a & ,india is call$ tussah 7or tussur74 ,! silk is inf]ior to t produc$ by ! cultivat$ worms & is us$ = mak+ pile fabrics1 su* z velvet1 plu%1 etc4 ,! color ( ! cocoons v>ies greatly4 ,mo/ ( ! ,european cocoons are bright yell[1 ?\gh "s are :ite4 ,! ,ea/]n cocoons1 on ! o!r h&1 are mo/ly :ite1 :ile a few are yell[4 ,! wild silks are = ! mo/ "p cru color1 ?\gh "s are pale gre54 ,! color1 except 9 ! wild silks1 is d]iv$ f ! gum :i* is secret$ by ! worm1 & ) :i* ! fib]s are /uck toge!r4 ,?is gum comprises f #ae to #cj p] c5t ( ! weight & is remov$ by boil+ 9 soap & wat] be=e ! silk is dy$4 ,all silks except ! wild silks1 aft] ! gum is remov$1 are f :ite to cream 9 color4 ,! tussah1 or wild silks1 rema9 an cru color4 ,illu/ration3 ,,reel+ ,,raw ,,silk ,! greate/ c>e has to be ex]cis$ ?r\gh\t 9 ! c>e ( ! mo?s1 eggs1 worms1 & cocoons--?is be+ ! succession ( *anges4 ,t is1 ! mo? lays eggs :i* are collect$ & kept cool till ! prop] season = incubation4 ,!y are !n kept w>m dur+ ! "t occupi$ 9 hat*+1 sometimes ab\t ! p]son ( ! rais]4 ,aft] a "t ^! eggs hat* out worms1 t9y ?+s h>dly l>g] ?an ! head ( a p94 ,aft] ! worms are hat*$ !y require con/ant c>e & fe$+ ) *opp$ mulb]ry leaves till !y rea* maturity4 ,!y are !n ab\t ?ree in*es 9 l5g?1 & sp9 _! cocoons f a fib] & gum :i* !y secrete4 ,:5 ! cocoons are spun ! worms become *rysalises inside ( !m4 ,! cocoons are !n collect$ & ! *rysalises kill$1 g5]ally by heat1 be=e !y c aga9 become mo?s4 ,raw ,silk4 ,! cocoons are next s5t to ! reel]s or filatures4 ,a numb] ( cocoons1 great] or less1 accord+ to ! size ( ?read desir$1 are plac$ 9 a bas9 ( hot wat]1 :i* s(t5s ! gum4 ,aft] ! outside fib]s are remov$ s t ! ends run free1 ! ends are collect$ ?r\gh a guide & are w\nd ^u a reel4 ,z ! silk cools & dries1 ! gum h>d5s1 /ick+ ! fib]s f ! diff]5t cocoons toge!r 9 "o smoo? ?read v>y+ 9 size accord+ to ! numb] ( cocoons us$4 ,aft] ! silk has be5 reel$ & dri$ x is twi/$ into hanks & s5t to ,am]ica & o!r c\ntries z raw silk4 ,mo/ ( ! raw silk ( comm]ce is produc$ 9 ,*9a1 ,japan1 & ,italy4 ,x is also produc$ to a l>ge ext5t 9 ,italy1 ,turkey1 & ,greece1 also ,france & ,portugal4 ,! cultivation ( silk is n only c>ri$ on by private firms1 b is enc\rag$ by ! gov]nm5t to ! ext5t ( grant+ money to ! manufactur]s4 ,v>i\s attempts h be5 made to raise silkworms 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,all h fail$ on acc\nt ( ! high price ( labor necess>y to fe$ ! worms4 ,?r[+4 ,! manufacture 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates beg9s ) raw silk4 ,we import our raw silk *iefly f ,italy1 ,*9a1 & ,japan4 ,x is h&l$ "h fir/ by ! ?r[/]1 :o w9ds x f ! ske9 & makes v>i\s k9ds ( ?read = diff]5t purposes4 ,raw silk w\nd on spools 9 a s+le ?read1 & call$ s+les is (t5 us$ to make w>ps 7t is1 ! ?reads runn+ l5g?wise ( a piece ( clo?7 = piece-dy$ goods1 or clo? :i* is wov5 ) ! gum 9 ! silk1 & aft]w>d boil$ out & dy$4 ,s+les are also sometimes us$ = fill+ 7t is1 cross ?reads7 9 v ?9 fabrics4 ,silk y>n t is us$ = weav+ is divid$ into two k9ds1 tram & organz9e4 ,tram silk is made by twi/+ two or m loosely twi/$ ?reads4 ,x is heavi] ?an organz9e & is us$ = fill+4 ,organz9e silk is produc$ by unit+ a numb] ( /rongly twi/$ ?reads4 ,x is us$ = w>p4 ,crpe y>n is us$ 9 mak+ crpe1 *iffon1 & = o!r purposes4 ,x is v h>d twi/$ ?read1 g5]ally tram1 f =ty to eighty turns p] in*4 ,embroid]y silk is made by w9d+ ! raw silk1 putt+ a l>ge numb] ( ends toge!r1 giv+ !m a slack twi/1 !n d\bl+ & twi/+ 9 ! rev]se direction ) a slack twi/4 ,sew+ silk is made by w9d+ & d\bl+ ! raw product1 !n twi/+ into tram1 giv+ x a slack twi/1 d\bl+ & twi/+ 9 ! rev]se direction "u t5sion4 ,ma*9e twi/ is simil>1 b ?ree ply4 ,! pr9cipal fabrics made ( silk are3 silk1 sat91 plu%1 *5ille1 crpe1 crepon1 gauze1 damask1 brocade1 pongee1 & ribbons4 ,silk ?read & cord are also ext5sively us$4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates is among ! lead]s 9 ! manufacture ( silk fabrics4 ,silk ,wa/e4 ,:5 ! cocoons are s(t5$ = reel+ a c]ta9 portion ( ! silk is f\nd to consi/ ( wa/e & brok5 ?reads4 ,! tangl$ silk on ! outside ( ! cocoon is call$ floss4 ,! residue aft] reel+1 & o!r wa/es 9 reel+1 are kn[n z frisonnets4 ,floss silk is n us$ = weav+4 ,x is a slack twi/$ tram1 g5]ally compos$ ( a l>ge numb] ( ?reads ( s+les4 ,spun ,silk4 ,!re is ano!r class ( ?reads made f wa/e silk by sp9n+ & kn[n z spun silk4 ,wa/e silks include ! pi]c$ cocoons1 t is1 ^? f :i* ! mo? has come out by mak+ ! hole & break+ ! fib]s 9 "o end ( ! cocoon2 ! wa/e made 9 ! filatures 9 produc+ raw or reel$ silk1 *iefly ! outside fib] ( ! cocoon & ! inside next ! *rysalis2 & also ! wa/e made 9 manufacture4 ,! wa/e silk is ungumm$2 t is1 ! gum is remov$ f ! fib]s by boil+ ) soap1 by mac]at+ or rett+1 or by *emical reag5ts4 ,aft] ! gum is remov$ f ! cocoons1 !y are op5$ & comb$1 mo/ ( ! *rysalis %ell be+ remov$4 ,! rema9d]1 ) o!r =eign matt]1 is pick$ out by h& f ! comb$ silk4 ,! silk is put ?r\gh a numb] ( draw+ frames to get ! fib]s ev5 on ! rov+ frames1 :]e x fir/ takes ! =m ( ?read1 !n on ! sp9n+ frames1 :]e x is twi/$4 ,if x is to be us$ z s+les1 ! manufacture ends "h4 ,9 two- or ?ree-ply y>ns1 ! s+les are d\bl$1 twi/$ aga91 s+$ by runn+ ?r\gh a gas flame1 clean$ by friction1 controll$1 t is1 ! knots & lumps tak5 out1 & !n reel$ into ske9s = dye+ or put on spools4 ,spun ,numb]s4 ,!re are two me?ods 9 g5]al use = numb]+ spun silk4 ,9 ! ,fr5* sy/em1 ! numb] is bas$ on ! s+les1 by ! met]s p] kilogram2 two & ?ree cord y>ns h "o-half1 "o-?ird1 etc41 ! l5g? ! numb]s indicate4 ,?us-- ,no4 #ajj s+les has #ajj1jjj met]s p] kilogram4 ,no4 #b-ajj has #ej1jjj met]s p] kilogram4 ,no4 #c-ajj has #cc1ccc met]s p] kilogram4 ,! o!r sy/em :i* is m g5]ally us$ 9 ?is c\ntry1 is ! ,engli% sy/em4 ,! hank is #hdj y>ds1 & ! numb] ( hanks 9 "o p\nd avoirdupois is ! c\nt ( ! y>n4 ,x is bas$ on ! f9i%$ y>n1 & s+les1 two or ?ree cord y>ns ( ! same numb] all h ! same y>ds p] p\nd4 ,?us-- ,no4 #ej s+les has #db1jjj y>ds p] p\nd4 ,no4 #ej-b has #db1jjj y>ds p] p\nd4 ,no4 #ej-c has #db1jjj y>ds p] p\nd4 ,dye+ ,y>ns4 ,g5]ally speak+ !re are two l>ge classes into :i* silk goods may be divid$1 ^? 9 :i* ! ?reads are color$ be=e weav+ & call$ y>n-dy$ goods1 & ^? dy$ or pr9t$ aft] weav+ & call$ piece-dy$ or pr9t$ goods4 ,9 dye+ y>ns1 ! silk is fir/ ungumm$ & clean$ by boil+ 9 soap & wat]1 !n wa%$ 9 cold wat]4 ,if ! ?read is to be weight$1 z is frequ5tly done1 t9 salts1 iron1 or o!r heavy mat]ial is deposit$ on ! fib]4 ,if c>ri$ f>1 ?is is injuri\s1 mak+ ! silk t5d] & weak4 ,sometimes !re is m weight+ ?an silk4 ,y>ns are usually dy$ 9 hot liquors1 anil9e colors be+ ! ones 9 mo/ common use to-day1 ?\gh o!r dyes are us$ = special purposes4 ,"s y>ns are dy$ 9 ! gum1 & "s ) a "p ( ! gum left 94 ,aft] dye+1 !y are wa%$ 9 cold wat]1 dri$1 & w\nd on spools4 ,silk ,dye+4 ,silk occupies 9 sev]al respects an int]m$iate position betwe5 ! animal & vegetable fib]s4 ,l wool1 x is a highly nitrog5\s body1 b conta9s no sulphur4 ,x readily takes up _m ( ! colors :i* c be work$ ^u vegetable fib] by ! aid ( ! mordants4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly ! case ) ref]5ce to a l>ge numb] ( anil9e colors1 :i* require m]ely to be dissolv$ & mix$ ) p]fectly cle> wat] 9 ! dye vessel4 ,! great attraction ( silk = ^! colors simplifies silk dye+ exce$+ly4 ,! sad colors1 on ! o!r h&1 & especially black1 are 9 _m cases exce$+ly complex1 ! ma9 object ( ! dy] be+ n s mu* to color ! silk z to increase its weight4 ,dye+ black on silk is unque/ionably ! mo/ important bran* ( silk dye+1 & x has probably receiv$ m att5tion ?an any o!r bran*1 9 consequ5ce ( :i* x has be5 br\ght to a high degree ( p]fection4 ,blacks on silks are produc$ bo? f natural & artificial color+ matt]s1 ! =m] hav+1 s f>1 reta9$ _! pre-em95ce despite ! rec5t discov]ies ( *emi/s4 ,= v>i\s reasons coal-t> colors h nev] prov$ successful 9 dye+ black on silk4 ,s9ce ! discov]y ( ,am]ica1 logwood blacks h =m$ ! /aple ( ! black-silk dy]1 :o has c>ri$ _! production to a high degree ( excell5ce4 ,b un=tunately1 besides aim+ at a high /ate ( p]fection 9 ! actual dye+ op]ation1 ! black-silk dy] has also aim$ at increas+ ! weight ( ! dy$ silk1 s t n[adays x is possible = him to receive t5 p\nds ( raw silk & to s5d out fifty p\nds ( black silk1 ! extra =ty p\nds be+ additions made 9 ! process ( dye+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,w9d+ ,,silk ,,on ,,swifts ,logwood black-silk dye+ consi/s ess5tially ( alt]nate dipp+s 9 sep>ate ba?s ) ! mordant & dye/uffs suitable = produc+ ! requir$ color & weight4 ,! numb] ( dipp+s & ! l5g? ( "t tak5 9 ea* op]ation dep5d on ! int5sity ( ! black want$ & ! am\nt ( weight+ :i* is desir$4 ,! *ief sub/ances us$ = weight+ are lead salts1 cate*u1 iron1 & nut-galls1 ) soap & oil to s(t5 9 "s degree ! h>%ness ( ! fabric :i* ^! m9]als cause4 ,z ! details ( ! op]ations are practically ! same = all k9ds ( logwood blacks 7rav51 jet1 crape1 dead black1 etc471 ! me?od = produc+ "o w suffice = all4 ,! process involves sev]al di/9ct op]ations1 z foll[s3 #a4 ,! ,boil+ ,(f4 ,?is is ! removal ( ! gum & natural color+ matt] 9 ! silk4 ,x is accompli%$ by boil+ ! ske9s ( silk 9 wat] & good olive oil soap = ab\t "o h\r4 ,?is dissolves ! gum & leaves ! fib] clean & glossy4 #b4 ,mordant+4 ,?is is done 9 a ba? ( nitrate ( iron1 9 :i* ! ske9s ( silk are all[$ to rema9 "o h\r4 ,! silk ga9s "s 9 weight 9 ?is op]ation by absorb+ a quantity ( ! iron 9 ! ba?4 ,aft] hav+ be5 dipp$ 9 ! fir/ ba? ?ree or f\r times1 x is ready = ! soap & iron ba?1 9 :i* x is repeat$ly imm]s$1 ! op]ation caus+ a deposit ( iron-soap on ! fib] :i* adds to its weight1 b at ! same "t does n less5 its flexibility & s(tness4 ,eight dipp+s 9 ! iron & soap ba? increase ! weight ( ! silk ab\t #ajj p] c5t4 #c4 ,blue ,bottom+4 ,! next op]ation is to dye ! silk blue1 :i* is done by imm]s+ x 9 a solution ( pota%4 ,9 ?is x is work$ = half an h\r1 :5 x acquires a deep blue color4 ,x is !n tak5 out1 & aft] r9s+ is ready = ! weight+ op]ations4 #d4 ,weight+ ,ba?4 ,a cate*u ba? is n[ prep>$1 9 :i* ! silk is ent]$ & work$ = an h\r1 & !n all[$ to /eep ov] night4 ,! result is t ! blue on ! silk is decompos$1 & ! goods by absorb+ ! tann9 9 ! cate*u increase 9 weight f #ce to #dj p] c5t4 ,?is ba? is ! mo/ important "o 9 ! dye+ ( weight$ black silks1 z ! dy] c regulate ! /r5g? ( ! ba? by ! addition ( t9 cry/als s z to increase ! weight ( ! silk to an a/oni%+ degree4 ,! proportion ( t9 cry/als us$ is regulat$ by ! numb] ( iron ba?s t h previ\sly be5 giv5 ! silk2 if two ba?s ( iron h be5 giv51 #e p] c5t ( t9 cry/als are us$2 if f\r ba?s1 #aj p] c5t1 & s on4 ,! action ( ^! *emicals is some:at complex4 ,all t is kn[n is t by reason ( "s peculi> quality possess$ by silk x is enabl$ to comb9e ) iron & t91 & t exposure to ! air aft] ! ba?s fixes ^! *emicals p]man5tly ^u ! fib]s1 ?us increas+ _! weight to almo/ any desir$ ext5t4 ,silk1 accord+ to its quality & weight1 w take up ( ^! sub/ances f #ej to #bjj p] c5t )\t creat+ mu* suspicion4 ,in/ances h be5 kn[n 9 :i* silk has be5 increas$ n9e times its own weight4 ,all ! op]ations ?us f> h _h = _! object ! weight+ ( ! silk1 al?\gh ! blue+ & ! cate*u ba?s h "s influ5ce on ! f9i%$ result4 ,aft] ^! come ! dye+ op]ations prop]1 two 9 numb]1 mordant+ & dye+4 #e4 ,mordant+4 ,a ba? ( iron liquor heat$ to #acj degrees ,f4 is provid$4 ,! silk is ent]$1 work$ well = "o h\r1 !n wrung out & hung up to age = two h\rs1 aft] :i* x is ready = ! logwood dye4 #f4 ,dye+4 ,a ba? ( logwood liquor is prep>$ to :i* is add$ #aj p] c5t ( fu/ic1 & ! solution is br\ght to a temp]ature ( #aej degrees ,f4 ,9 ?is ! silk is ent]$ & work$ = an h\r1 !n tak5 out & wrung dry4 ,sometimes ! black does n come up full en\gh1 & 9 su* cases ! ba? is repeat$4 #g4 ,! f9al op]ation has = its object ! re/oration ( ! lu/] & suppl5ess ( ! silk1 :i* has to "s ext5t det]iorat$ f ! _m op]ations ?r\gh :i* x has pass$4 ,! bright5+ & s(t5+ ( ! fib] are effect$ by imm]s+ ! silk 9 a ba? ( olive oil 9 ! =m ( an emulsion4 ,9 ?is ! silk is work$ until x is ?or\ghly impregnat$ ) ! oil1 :5 x is tak5 out & wrung dry1 aft] :i* x is ready = ! loom4 ,practically ! same process is foll[$ 9 piece dye+1 ?\gh only inf]ior grades ( silk are dy$ 9 ! web4 ,color$ ,silks4 ,?is class ( silks is g5]ally pur] ?an black & sad-color$ silks4 ,x is n ne>ly s easy to weight ! =m] z ! latt]1 = ! reason t !re are b few sub/ances capable ( giv+ weight :i* d n int]f]e ) ! effect ( light color$ dyes4 ,! weight+ ag5ts mo/ g5]ally us$ are sug> & acetate ( lead4 ,! weight+ by sug> is done aft] ! silk is dy$4 ,a solution is made ( pure lump sug> by plac+ x 9 a l>ge copp] pan ) wat] & heat+ until dissolv$4 ,9 ?is ba? ! silk is ?or\ghly saturat$1 & !n dri$ & f9i%$2 or1 ! dipp+ process may be repeat$ sev]al times if desir$4 ,"o dipp+ w weight ! silk ab\t #ab p] c5t1 two ab\t #bj p] c5t1 & ?ree ab\t #cj p] c5t4 ,9 a solution ( acetate ( lead1 ea* dipp+ w weight ! silk ab\t #h p] c5t1 & ^! may be repeat$ z (t5 z x is wi%$4 ,9 ?is case ! weight+ is g5]ally done on ! undy$1 boil$-(f silk1 al?\gh x may be done on ! dy$ silk if ! color is su* z w /& ! acid4 ,mix$ ,silk ,fabrics4 ,until lately silk 0 inv>iably dy$ 9 ! /ate ( y>n4 ,:5 ! silk 0 to be wov5 into mix$ fabrics1 su* z sat91 gloria1 etc41 x 0 impossible to dye bo? fib]s exactly ! same %ade4 ,=m]ly su* fabrics 7 wov5 ) ! cotton & silk y>ns dy$ sep>ately1 c>e be+ tak5 to mat* !m z closely z possible4 ,! weav+ ( dy$ y>ns ( diff]5t fib]s is op5 to ! objection t :5 ! fabric comes to be f9i%$ !re is a wide diff]5ce 9 ! color1 no matt] h[ closely !y may h mat*$ 9 ! beg9n+4 ,ribbons4 ,ribbons are wov5 sev]al pieces 9 "o loom1 ) a sep>ate %uttle = ea* piece4 ,! %uttle is c>ri$ ?r\gh ! %$ or w>p by a rack & p9ion1 in/ead ( be+ ?r[n ?r\gh z 9 broad goods2 o!rwise ! weav+ is ! same4 ,velvets4 ,velvets & o!r pile fabrics are wov5 9 two pieces1 "o ov] ! o!r1 ) ! pile ?reads wov5 back & =? betwe5 !m4 ,a knife travels betwe5 ! two pieces cutt+ ! pile ?reads s z to leave ! ends /&+ up /raight4 ,velvets us$ to be wov5 ov] wires & cut by h&1 b ?is me?od is practically obsolete4 ,piece ,dye+4 ,if ! goods are wov5 ) ! gum /ill 9 ! silk1 x mu/ be tak5 out aft]w>d1 & ! goods ei!r dy$ 9 ! piece or prep>$ = pr9t+4 ,pr9t+4 ,! mo/ primitive me?od ( pr9t+ is by ! use ( /5cils4 ,x is ! me?od employ$ by ! ,japanese & ,*9ese4 ,next came block pr9t+1 :i* is /ill ext5sively us$ 9 ,europe4 ,! patt]n is rais$ 9 felt on wood5 blocks1 ! color tak5 up f pads1 "o block = ea* color4 ,! results are good1 b ! "w is v sl[4 ,mo/ silk goods are to-day ma*9e pr9t$4 ,! design is engrav$ or et*$ on copp] cyl9d]s1 "o cyl9d] = ea* color2 ! color ?ick5$ ) gum is suppli$ by rolls runn+ aga9/ ! cyl9d]s1 & ! surplus is scrap$ (f by a knife blade1 leav+ only t 9 ! engrav+ :i* is tak5 up by ! clo?4 ,aft] pr9t+1 ! clo? is /eam$ to set ! colors1 & !n wa%$ 9 ord] to remove ! gum us$ to ?ick5 ! colors = pr9t+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,jacqu>d ,,silk ,,loom ,f9i%+4 ,all silk goods1 :e!r y>n dy$ or piece dy$ or pr9t$1 are giv5 "s k9d ( f9i%2 sometimes x is no m ?an is necess>y to smoo? out ! wr9kles4 ,!re are _m f9i%+ processes by :i* goods may be treat$4 ,!y are run ?r\gh gas flames to s+e (f loose fib]1 & ov] /eam cyl9d]s to dry & /raight5 !m1 ov] a great v>iety ( siz+ ma*9es to /iff5 !m ) />* or glue4 ,!re are cal5d]s or heavy rolls to smoo? & iron !m1 /eam presses ( great p[] to press !m out1 break+ & rubb+ ma*9es to s(t5 !m1 & t5t]+ ma*9es to /ret* !m to uni=m wid?4 ,!re are also moire+ or wat]+1 emboss+1 & v>i\s o!r ma*9es = special purposes4 ,wat]pro(+4 ,"o ( ! wor/ difficulties ) :i* ! manufactur] ( piece-dy$ & pr9t$ silk goods has to cont5d is ! ease ) :i* !y become spott$ ) wat]1 & = a numb] ( ye>s _m p h tri$ to prev5t ?is by v>i\s processes4 ,!re are no less ?an two hundr$ su* processes pat5t$4 ,none ( !m h met ) mu* success1 z !y injur$ ! feel or /r5g? ( ! goods4 ,aft] goods are f9i%$ !y are c>efully inspect$ = imp]fections1 measur$1 & wrapp$ 9 pap] & pack$ 9 cases = %ipm5t4 ,! complexity & numb] ( processes = treat+ silk goods may be realiz$ :5 we "k t a piece-dy$ or pr9t$ fabric is h&l$ its entire l5g? betwe5 fifty & "o hundr$ times aft] x comes f ! loom1 sometimes ev5 m4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,pr9cipal ,,silk ,,fabrics ,alma4 ,clo?1 d\ble twill$ f left to "r diagonally1 fir/ made 9 black only z a m\rn+ fabric4 ,! "n is f ! ,egyptian1 z appli$ to a m\rn] or a s+] at a fun]al4 ,b>ge4 ,%e] /uff ( silk & wool = veil+1 nam$ f ! t[n ( ,b>ges1 9 ,france4 ,b5gal9e4 ,an imitation ( an old silk fabric made = _m c5turies 9 ,b5gal1 ,india1 :5ce ! "n4 ,! weave is simil> to t ( ord9>y rep or popl91 be+ a simple r\nd-cord$ effect4 ,! cord is produc$ by us+ a heavy s(t-spun wool5 weft :i* is s closely cov]$ by ! silk w>p ?reads t x is n expos$ :5 exam9$ f ! wrong side4 ,! same weave is also f\nd 9 all-silk goods1 "u ! designation ( all-silk b5gal9e4 ,:5 *eap5$ by ! use ( a cotton weft 9 place ( wool ! fabric is kn[n z cotton b5gal9e1 al?\gh ! cotton is 9 ! fill+ only4 ,b]b]4 ,sat9-fac$ fabric ( light-weight clo?4 ,x came into favor ab\t ! "t ( ! defeat ( ! ,b]b]s by ,g5]al ,gordon 9 8 campaign aga9/ ! ,mahdi 9 ,nor? ,africa4 ,brocade4 ,rais$ figures on a pla9 gr\nd4 ,brocatel4 ,a k9d ( brocade us$ = drap]ies & uphol/]y2 usually rais$ wool figures on a silk gr\nd4 ,bombaz9e4 ,silk w>p1 wool weft1 f9e twill$ clo?2 orig9ally made 9 black only = m\rn+4 ,x is us$ l>gely = m\rn+ hat b&s4 ,! root ( ! "n is bombyx1 ! ,lat9 = silkworm4 ,*5ille4 ,clo? ( a fuzzy or fluffy face2 wov5 ( cotton1 silk1 or wool2 us$ sometimes = dress goods2 m g5]ally = curta9s & table cov]s4 ,*5ille is ! ,fr5* ^w = cat]pill>1 :i* ! s+le ?read ( ! clo? resembles4 ,*iffon4 ,a ?91 transp>5t silk musl94 ,al?\gh "o ( ! ?9ne/ & gauzie/ ( mod]n silk fabrics1 x is relatively /rong consid]+ its lightness4 ,to convey an idea ( ! f95ess ( ! ?read us$ 9 its manufacture1 x is /at$ t "o p\nd ( x w ext5d a di/ance ( eight miles4 ,9 ! process ( f9i%+ ! fabric receives a dress+ ( pure size4 ,!re are two /yles ( f9i%1 call$ respectively ! demi- or half size & ! full size4 ,*iffon f9i%$ by full siz+ is comp>atively /iff2 :ile ! demi-f9i% produces a s(t] & light] texture4 ,x is dy$ 9 a great v>iety ( colors1 & sometimes is pr9t$ 9 delicate patt]ns4 ,x is especially adapt$ = home & ev5+ we>1 & is us$ = neck & sleeve trimm+1 drap]y ov] silk f\ndations1 fancy "w1 & mill9]y4 ,*9a ,silk4 ,a t]m appli$ to pla9 wov5 silks manufactur$ 9 ,*9a4 ,! t]m ,*9a silk has be5 adopt$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates 9 rec5t ye>s = a class ( ma*9e-wov5 silks made 9 imitation ( ! h&-loom product4 ,^! imitations are n>r[ 9 wid? & lack ! s(t1 lu/r\s quality ( ,ea/]n fabrics1 & are also free f ! unev5 ?reads4 ,*9a silks are di/+ui%$ by _! irregul> ?reads1 caus$ by "s ( ! ?reads be+ heavi] ?an o!rs1 & _! extreme s(tness4 ,! w>p & fill+ are id5tical 9 size & color1 & be+ wov5 ev5ly produce a beautiful natural lu/]4 ,x is g5]ally pla9 color1 al?\gh ! figur$ goods are pr9t$ 9 mu* ! same mann] z calico4 ,x is us$ = g[ns1 wai/s1 und]clo?+1 etc4 ,x laund]s z well z :ite cotton4 ,crpe4 ,a ?91 gauzy fabric1 wov5 9 loose ev5 ?reads ( silk1 heavily siz$ or gumm$1 crimp$ or crp$ 9 ! dye+4 ,crpe 0 fir/ us$ 9 black only z a badge ( m\rn+4 ,x is n[ an accept$ dress fabric1 made 9 colors & :ite & ( _m mat]ials4 ,! "n signifies to crimp or crpe ) a hot iron4 ,crpe de ,*9e4 ,a s(t1 lu/r\s silk crpe1 ! surface ( :i* is smoo!r ?an t ( ! ord9>y v>ieties4 ,x is wov5 z a pla9 weave ) "p ( ! w>p ?reads "r twi/$ & ! re/ left twi/$4 ,x is dy$ almo/ any color & figur$ or pr9t$4 ,eoli5ne4 ,%e] clo? ( silk1 silk & wool1 or silk & cotton1 wov5 9 f9e c>d effect4 ,! "n comes f ! ,greek olus1 god ( ! w9ds4 ,f\l>d4 ,pla9 silk clo?1 sold z dress goods2 orig9ally made = h&k]*iefs only4 ,! "n is ,fr5* = silk h&k]*ief4 ,glac4 ,pla91 lu/r\s silk1 y>n dy$1 ) w>p ( "o color1 & weft ( ano!r4 ,! "n is appli$ to all fabrics hav+ two tones4 ,glac is ,fr5* = icy1 hav+ an icy appe>ance4 ,india ,silk4 ,a "n appli$ to ! pla9 wov5 silks manufactur$ 9 ,india on ! primitive h& looms4 ,! w>p & weft are wov5 ev5ly & produce a beautiful natural lu/]4 ,x is simil> to ,*9a & ,japanese silk4 ,9 fact mo/ ( ^! fabrics come f ,*9a & ,japan1 ,india silk be+ almo/ unkn[n 9 ?is c\ntry z s little ( x is export$4 ,! durability ( ^! silks is ab\t ! same1 & !re is little diff]5ce 9 ! prices4 ,japanese ,silk4 ,a t]m appli$ to ! pla9 wov5 silk manufactur$ 9 ,japan4 ,! w>p & fill+ ( ?is fabric are id5tical 9 size & color1 & be+ wov5 ev5ly produce a beautiful natural lu/]4 ,! weave is smoo? & s(t 9 quality4 ,x is dy$ 9 pla9 colors4 ,! figur$ goods are pr9t$ 9 mu* ! same way z calico4 ,x is us$ = wai/s1 g[ns1 & fancy und]we>4 ,j]sey ,clo?4 ,silk j]sey clo? is popul> at pres5t4 ,x is a knitt$ silk fabric1 n wov51 & is g5]ally dy$ 9 pla9 colors4 ,x is exp5sive & is us$ = wom5's dresses1 wraps1 & silk gloves4 ,meteor4 ,crpe de meteor 0 orig9ally a trade "n = crpe de *9e1 b n[ appli$ to a fabric :i* is di/+ui%able f crpe de *9e4 ,moire4 ,moire is a wav$ or wat]$ effect produc$ ^u ! surface ( v>i\s k9ds ( textile fabrics1 especially on grosgra9 silk & wool5 more54 ,?is wat]$ effect is produc$ by ! use ( engrav$ roll]s & high pressure on c>d$ mat]ial4 ,! object ( develop+ ^u wov5 textiles ! effect kn[n z moire is ! production ( a peculi> lu/] result+ f ! div]g5t reflection ( ! light rays on ! mat]ial1 a div]g5ce br\ght ab\t by compress+ & flatt5+ ! w>p & fill+ ?reads 9 places1 & s produc+ a surface ! diff]5t p>ts ( :i* reflect ! light diff]5tly4 ,! moire effect may be obta9$ on silk1 wor/$1 or cotton fabrics1 ?\gh x is impossible to develop x on o!r ?an a gra9$ or f9e cord$ weave4 ,! pressure appli$ to ! mat]ial be+ unev51 ! gra9$ surface is flatt5$ 9 ! p>ts desir$4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages moire 0 held 9 high e/eem1 & cont9ues to enjoy t di/9ction d[n to ! pres5t day4 ,x is us$ = wom5's dresses1 capes1 & = fac+s1 trimm+s1 etc4 ,mozambique4 ,gr5ad9es1 ) l>ge color$ fl[] designs 9 relief4 ,organz9e4 ,silk fabric1 made ) w>p & fill+ ( ! same size4 ,organz9e is ! "n giv5 ! twi/$ silk ?read 9 ,italy1 :]e x is made4 ,panne4 ,?is "n is appli$ to a range ( sat9-fac$ velvet or silk fabrics :i* %[ a high lu/] produc$ by pressure4 ,! ^w panne is ! ,fr5* = plu%4 ,peau de ,soie4 ,lit]ally1 sk9 ( silk4 ,a v>iety ( heavy1 s(t-f9i%$1 pla9-color$ dress silk1 wov5 ) a patt]n ( f9e close ribs ext5d+ weftwise ( ! fabric4 ,an eight-%aft sat9 ) "o po9t add$ to ! orig9al spots on ! "r or left1 imp>t+ to ! fabric a some:at gra9y appe>ance4 ,! be/ grades ( peau de soie pres5t ! same appe>ance on bo? sides1 be+ rev]sible4 ,! l[] grades are f9i%$ on "o side only4 ,plu%4 ,long pil$ fabric ( ! velvet ord]4 ,pelu*1 ! orig9 ( ! "n1 is ,fr5* = %aggy4 ,pongee4 ,said to be a corruption ( ,*9ese pun*i1 signify+ home made or home wov54 ,ano!r sugge/ion is t ! ^w is a corruption ( pun-%ih1 a native or wild silk4 ,a s(t1 unblea*$1 wa%able silk1 wov5 f ! cocoons ( ! wild silkworm1 :i* fe$s on ! leaves ( ! scrub oak4 ,imm5se quantities 9 a raw /ate are annually %ipp$ f ,*9a to ?is c\ntry & ,europe1 :]e !y are blea*$1 dy$1 & ornam5t$ ) v>i\s /yles ( designs4 ,! "n is also appli$ to a v>iety ( dress goods wov5 ) a wild silk w>p & a f9e wor/$ weft4 ,popel9e4 ,a ,fr5* "n4 ,! ,fr5* fabric is said to h be5 fir/ introduc$ dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury at ,avignon1 !n a papal diocese1 & to h be5 s call$ 9 complim5t to ! reign+ pope4 ,a fabric con/ruct$ ) a silk w>p & a fill+ ( wool heavi] ?an ! silk :i* gives x a cord$ surface4 ,popl9 manufacture 0 introduc$ into ,irel& 9 #afic by a colony ( fugitive ,fr5* ,hugu5ots4 ,! indu/ry conc5trat$ at ,dubl91 :]e x has s9ce rema9$4 ,! ,iri% product has be5 celebrat$ = its uni=mly f9e quality4 ,x is always wov5 on h& looms1 :i* acc\nts = ! high price x comm&s 9 ,engli% & ,am]ican m>kets4 ,! wool us$ is a f9e grade ( ,cape or ,au/ralian1 :i* is ! mo/ suitable 9 texture & l5g? ( fib]4 ,! silk is unweight$ ,*9ese organz9e4 ,! result is a ri*1 h&some fabric resembl+ :ole silk goods 9 appe>ance1 b inf]ior to !m 9 durability & produc$ at a mu* less co/4 ,x is us$ = ladies' wai/s1 wraps1 & g[ns4 ,figur$ ,popl94 ,a /\t v>iety1 ornam5t$ 9 ! loom ) figures4 ,! gr\nd is compos$ ( cle>1 %>p cords ext5d+ across ! web4 ,x is sometimes wov5 entirely ( silk1 b (t5] ( silk & wool4 ,us$ = high-class uphol/]y purposes1 & = curta9s & hang+s4 ,t]ry ,popl94 ,a silk & wool dress fabric 9 ! con/ruction ( :i* ! alt]nate w>ps are ?r[n ^u ! surface 9 ! =m ( m9ute loops4 ,s>s5et4 ,a ?91 s(t-f9i%$ silk fabric ( a veil+ k9d1 n[ us$ z mill9]y l9+4 ,! "n comes f ! ,arab ,s>ac5s1 :o wore x 9 _! head-dress4 ,sat94 ,:5 sat9 fir/ appe>$ 9 trade 9 ,s\!rn ,europe x 0 call$ aceytu94 ,! t]m slipp$ ?r\gh e>ly ,italian lips into zeta91 & com+ we/w>d ! i 0 dropp$1 & smoo!d itself into sat94 ,!re is evid5ce t ! mat]ial 0 kn[n z e>ly z ! f\rte5? c5tury 9 ,engl&1 & probably 9 ,france & ,spa9 previ\s to t "t1 ?\gh "u o!r names4 ,9 ! weav+ ( mo/ silk fabrics ! w>p & fill+ int]sect ea* o!r e alt]nate "t 7z 9 pla9 weav+71 or e ?ird or f\r? "t 7z 9 ord9>y twill weav+7 9 regul> ord]2 b 9 weav+ sat9 ! f9e silk w>p only appe>s ^u ! surface1 ! fill+ be+ effectually cov]$ up & hidd54 ,in/ead ( mak+ ! w>p pass "u & ov] ! fill+ e alt]nate "t1 or ov] two or ?ree fill+ ?reads 9 regul> ord]1 x is made to pass ov] eight1 t51 twelve or m fill+ ?reads2 !n "u "o & ov] eight m1 & s on4 ,9 pass+ ov] ! fill+1 h[ev]1 ! w>ps d n int]weave at regul> int]vals1 :i* w\ld produce a twill1 b at irregul> int]vals1 ?us produc+ an ev51 close1 smoo? surface1 & "o capable ( reflect+ ! light to ! be/ advantage4 ,! fill+ ( l[ grade sat9 is g5]ally cotton1 :ile 9 ! bett] goods x is silk4 ,common sat9 is :at is te*nically kn[n z an eight-leaf twill1 ! ord] 9 :i* ! fill+ ?read rises be+ once 9 eight times4 ,ri* sat9s may consi/ ( sixte5-leaf to tw5ty-leaf twills4 ,! *eap qualities ( cotton-back sat91 p>ticul>ly ^? t sell at :olesale = fifty c5ts & "u1 are n made to any ext5t 9 ?is c\ntry1 our manufactur]s be+ unable to compete ) =eign mills 9 ^! l9es4 ,sat9s are wov5 ) ! face d[nw>d1 because 9 weav+1 say a sixte5-leaf sat91 x w\ld be necess>y1 7 ! surface upw>d1 to keep fifte5 h$dles rais$ & "o d[n1 :]eas ) ! face ( ! clo? "u1 only "o h$dle has to be rais$ at a "t4 ,:5 fir/ tak5 f ! loom ! face ( sat9 is some:at flossy & r\gh1 & h5ce requires to be dress$4 ,?is op]ation consi/s ( pass+ ! pieces ov] heat$ metal cyl9d]s :i* remove ! m9ute fibr\s ends1 & also increase ! natural brilliance ( ! silk4 ,cotton-back sat9s are us$ by c(f9 manufactur]s1 fancy box mak]s1 fan mak]s1 & by ! cutt+-up trade4 ,ri* sat9s are us$ 9 mak+ ladies' g[ns & wai/s4 ,soleil4 ,sat9-fac$ clo?1 wov5 ) a f9e l9e1 a /ripe runn+ l5g?wise ( ! piece4 ,x is usually made 9 solid colors & piece dy$4 ,soleil is ,fr5* = sun1 & applies to ! brightness ( ! f9i%$ clo?4 ,taffeta4 ,d]iv$ f ,p]sian taftah4 ,taffeta is "o ( ! olde/ weaves kn[n1 silk "u ?is "n hav+ be5 9 con/ant use s9ce ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,dur+ ?is long p]iod ! t]m has be5 appli$ at diff]5t times to diff]5t mat]ials4 ,x is a ?91 glossy silk ( pla9 texture or wov5 9 l9es s f9e z to appe> pla9 wov54 ,! weave is capable ( _m effects 9 ! way ( %ot & *angeable arrangem5ts1 :i* are produc$ by ?reads ( diff]5t colors r ?an by any special disposition ( w>p & fill+4 ,taffeta has ! same appe>ance on bo? sides4 ,x is piece dy$ 9 numb]less pla9 colors1 & also produc$ 9 a great v>iety ( ornam5tal patt]ns1 su* z fancy plaids1 cords1 & /ripes 7bo? pr9t$ & wov574 ,! foll[+ consid]ations contribute *iefly to ! p]fection ( taffetas1 viz43 ! silk1 ! wat]1 & ! fire4 ,! silk mu/ n only be ( ! f9e/ k9d1 b x mu/ be work$ a long "t be=e x is us$4 ,! wat]+1 :i* is giv5 lightly by any acidul\s fluid1 is int5d$ to produce ! f9e lu/]1 & la/ly1 ! fire & pressure :i* h a p>ticul> mann] ( application4 ,its we>+ qualities are n ( ! be/4 ,! clo? cracks or breaks1 especially if plait$4 ,x is us$ = g[ns1 %irtwai/s1 l9+s1 petticoats1 etc4 ,tulle4 ,op5work silk net2 made on ! pill[ z lace by "y wom5 ( ,tulle1 ,france4 ,vel\r4 ,fr5* = velvet4 ,a trade t]m ( some:at loose application1 be+ us$ indiscrim9ately to describe a great v>iety ( textures s con/ruct$ or f9i%$ z to pres5t a velvet-l surface4 ,x is usually a velvety fabric made ( co>se wool y>n & silk4 ,vel\r is wov5 ) a co>se /iff pile aft] ! mann] ( plu%2 :ile at pres5t x is made ( jute1 cotton1 & wor/$1 x 0 orig9ally con/ruct$ ( l954 ,x is produc$ 9 numb]less =ms1 bo? pla9 & 9 fancy effects4 ,velvet4 ,f ! ,italian velluto1 feel+ woolly to ! t\*1 z a woolly pelt or hide4 ,f9e velvet is made :olly ( silk4 ,velvete54 ,an imitation velvet1 made ( cotton1 usually ) pla9 back1 n twill$1 z silk velvet4 ,tabby ,velvet4 ,! l[e/ grade ( cotton velvet1 us$ = cov]+ *eap c(f9 l9+ cases1 sold by ! in* 9 wid?s :i* range f sixte5 to ?irty-two in*es4 ,orig9ally made 9 ,bagdad = wall cov]+1 its "n be+ d]iv$ f a section ( t city4 ,voile4 ,f ! ,fr5* voile1 mean+ a veil1 a light fabric usually m or less transp>5t1 int5d$ to conceal ! features 9 :ole or 9 "p or to s]ve z a scre5 aga9/ sunlight1 du/1 insects1 etc41 or to emphasize or pres]ve ! beauty4 ,! cu/om ( we>+ veils _h its orig9 9 ! e>ly ages 9 ! desire ( semi-savage man to hide away ! woman ( 8 *oice1 & is a survival ( ! anci5t cu/om ( hid+ wom5 t is f\nd ev5 d[n to ! pres5t day 9 ,ea/]n c\ntries4 ,voile is a transp>5t1 wiry mat]ial ) a squ>e me%4 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,artificial ,,silk ,silk ,cotton4 ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( silk v>i\s attempts h be5 made to f9d satisfactory sub/itutes = x4 ,!re are c]ta9 se$ cov]+s ( plants t conta9 v f9e hair-l fib]s ) a lu/] almo/ equal to silk1 b ! /aples are %ort1 & ! texture weak4 ,! ,kapok plant furni%es mo/ ( ! comm]cial silk cotton on ! m>ket4 ,! fib]s ( ,kapok are ?9 & transp>5t4 ,!y are extremely light1 & ! l5g? is less ?an half an in*4 ,silk cotton has a smoo? surface & !re=e _c be spun l true cotton :i* has cord$ edges4 ,artificial ,silk4 ,s9ce se$ hairs are compos$1 l all vegetable fib]s1 ( cellulose1 attempts h be5 made to prep>e an artificial silk product f wa/e pap]--t is1 by treat+ wa/e pap] or wood or cotton fib]s ) v>i\s *emicals 9 ord] to obta9 pure cellulose4 ,?is artificial silk is p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ ( artificial fib]s1 b its manufacture is dang]\s1 ow+ to ! ease ) :i* x cat*es fire & explodes4 ,cellulose1 *emically treat$1 c be trans=m$ into a fluid solution kn[n z collodion4 ,! collodion is plac$ 9 /eel cyl9d]s & expell$ by pressure ?r\gh capill>y tubes4 ,aft] dry+1 d5itration1 & wa%+1 x may be spun & dy$ l natural silk4 ,color$ ?reads may be produc$ by ! addition ( c]ta9 dyes4 ,artificial silk be>s a deceptive resemblance to ! natural article1 & has ne>ly ! same lu/]4 ,x lacks ! t5sile /r5g? & ela/icity1 & is ( high] specific gravity ?an true silk4 ,te/s4 ,a simple way ( recogniz+ artificial silk is by te/+ ! ?reads "u moi/ure1 z foll[s3 ,fir/1 unravel a few ?reads ( ! suspect$ fabric1 place !m 9 ! m\? & ma/icate !m vigor\sly4 ,artificial silk readily s(t5s "u ?is op]ation & breaks up into m9ute p>ticles1 & :5 pull$ betwe5 ! f+]s %[s no ?read1 b m]ely a mass ( cellulose or pulp4 ,natural silk1 no matt] h[ ?or\ghly ma/icat$1 w reta9 its fibr\s /r5g?4 ,! artificial silk (f]s no resi/ance to ! tee?1 :i* readily g ?r\gh x2 :]eas natural silk resi/s ! action ( ! tee?4 ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,sub/itutes ,,= ,,cotton ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( cotton v>i\s exp]im5ts h be5 made 9 an ef=t to replace x ) fib] f wood pulp1 grasses1 leaves1 & o!r plants4 ,wood ,pulp4 ,a ,fr5*man has discov]$ a process1 la soyeuse1 ( mak+ spruce wood pulp into a sub/itute = cotton4 ,al?\gh x is call$ a sub/itute1 ! samples %[ t x takes dye1 blea*+1 & f9i%+ m brilliantly ?an ! cotton fib]4 ,x resi/s boil+ 9 wat] or cau/ic pota% solution = "s m9utes1 & does n burn m quickly ?an cotton4 ,! fib] c be made ( any l5g?1 z is also ! case ) artificial silk4 ,! /r5g? ( ! y>n app>5tly exce$s cotton1 & ! co/ ( manufacture is mu* l[]4 ,arrangem5ts are be+ made 9 ,europe = ! ext5sive production ( ?is fib]4 ,ramie4 ,ramie or ,*9a grass is a s(t1 silky1 & extremely /rong fib]4 ,x gr[s 9 s\?we/]n ,asia1 is cultivat$ comm]cially 9 ,*9a1 ,=mosa1 & ,japan1 & is a fib] ( increas+ importance4 ,ramie is a memb] ( ! nettle family & atta9s a height ( f f\r to eight feet4 ,aft] ! /alks are clean$ ( a gummy sub/ance1 insoluble 9 wat]1 x is kn[n z ,*9a grass1 & is us$ 9 ,*9a = summ] clo?+4 ,9 ,europe & ,am]ica by ! use ( mod]n ma*9]y & *emical processes ! fib] is clean$ effectively & *eaply4 ,aft] x is blea*$ & comb$ x makes a f9e silky fib]1 "o-half ! weight ( l951 & ?ree times /rong] ?an hemp4 ,x is us$ 9 ,europe to make fabrics t resemble silk1 & is also us$ 9 mak+ und]we> & velvets4 ,) o!r fabrics x is employ$ z a fill+ = wool5 w>ps4 ,x w probably be us$ widely 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates z soon z *eap] me?ods ( clean+ are devis$4 ,p9eapple & ,o!r ,fib]s4 ,o!r fib]s1 ( :i* t f ! p9eapple is ! mo/ important1 are us$ = textile purposes 9 ,*9a1 ,s\? ,am]ica1 p>ts ( ,africa1 ,mexico1 & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,_! use has n be5 ext5sive on acc\nt ( high co/ ( production4 ,! silk f ! p9eapple is v light & ( excell5t quality4 ,spun ,glass4 ,:5 a glass rod is heat$ 9 a flame until p]fectly s(t x c be drawn out 9 ! =m ( v f9e ?reads :i* may be us$ 9 ! production ( h&some silky fabrics4 ,spun glass c be produc$ 9 colors2 b on acc\nt ( ! l[ ela/icity ( ^! products1 _! practical value is small1 ?\gh ! ?reads are exce$+ly uni=m & h beautiful lu/]4 ,spun glass is us$ by *emi/s = filt]+ /rong acid solutions4 ,a k9d ( glass wool is produc$ by draw+ out to a capill>y ?read two glass rods ( diff]5t degrees ( h>dness4 ,on cool+ !y curl up1 9 consequ5ce ( ! diff]5t con/ruction ( ! two con/itu5t ?reads4 ,metallic ,?reads4 ,metallic ?reads h always be5 us$ = decorat+1 p>ticul>ly 9 ri* fabrics4 ,f9e gold5 ?reads1 z well z silv] gilt ?reads1 & silv] ?reads & copp] wire1 h be5 us$ 9 _m ( ! s-call$ ,cyprian gold ?read fabrics1 s r5[n$ = _! beauty & p]man5ce 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,^! ?reads are n[ produc$ by cov]+ flax or hemp ?reads ) a gilt ( f9e texture4 ,slag ,wool4 ,slag wool is obta9$ by all[+ molt5 slag 7g5]ally f iron7 to run into a pan fitt$ ) a /eam injector :i* bl[s ! slag into fib]s4 ,! fib]s are cool$ by runn+ !m ?r\gh wat]1 & ! f9i%$ product is us$ z a pack+ mat]ial4 ,asbe/os4 ,asbe/os is a silicate ( magnesium & lime1 conta9+ 9 addition iron & alum9um4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,savoy1 ! ,pyr5ees1 ,nor!rn ,italy1 ,canada1 & "s p>ts ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,asbe/os usually occurs 9 :ite or gre5i% glassy fib]s1 sometimes comb9$ 9 a compact mass1 & sometimes easily sep>able1 ela/ic1 & flexible4 ,canadian asbe/os is almo/ pure :ite1 & has long fib]s4 ,asbe/os c be spun into f9e ?read & wov5 into rope or y>n1 b z x is difficult to sp9 ^! fib]s alone1 !y are g5]ally mix$ ) a little cotton1 :i* is aft]w>ds dispos$ ( by heat+ ! f9i%$ fabric to inc&esc5ce4 ,because ( its incombu/ible nature asbe/os is us$ :]e high temp]atures are necess>y1 z 9 ! pack+ ( /eam jo9ts1 /eam cyl9d]s1 hot p>ts ( ma*9es1 & = fire curta9s 9 !atres1 hotels1 etc4 ,x is difficult to dye4 ,,app5dix ,te/+ ,textile ,fabrics4 ,?is is an age ( adult]ation1 & next to food !re is probably no commodity t is adult]at$ z mu* z ! clo?+ we we>4 ,l>ge pur*as]s ( textile fabrics & v>i\s adm9i/rative bodies1 su* z army clo?+ dep>tm5ts1 railway companies1 etc41 h adopt$ def9ite specifications to ensure hav+ good mat]ial & workman%ip4 ,be=e ! fabrics are accept$ !y are exam9$ c>efully by c]ta9 te/s to see if !y meet ! requirem5ts4 ,:olesale & retail m]*ants insi/ on v>i\s conditions :5 pur*as+ fabrics 9 ord] to con=m to ! increas+ ne$s ( ! public4 ,h5ce e manufactur]1 buy]1 or deal] 9 fabrics %\ld be famili> ) ! te/s us$ to det]m9e ! quality ( goods he is ab\t to buy4 ,! te/s us$ are z foll[s3 #a4 ,id5tification ( ! /yle ( weav+4 #b4 ,te/+ ! break+ /r5g? & ! ela/icity by ! dynamomet]4 #c4 ,det]m9+ ! c\nt ( w>p & fill+4 #d4 ,det]m9+ ! %r9kage4 #e4 ,te/+ ! con/itu5ts ( w>p & ( fill+4 #f4 ,te/+ ! f9i% & dress+ mat]ials4 #g4 ,te/+ ! fa/ness ( ! dye4 ,directions = ,det]m9+ ! ,/yle ( ,weave4 ,9 exam9+ a fabric = ! weave x is fir/ necess>y to det]m9e ! direction ( ! w>p & fill+ ?reads4 ,?is is a v simple matt] 9 a great _m fabrics t h a selv$ge--! w>p mu/ be p>allel to ! selv$ge4 ,9 fabrics t h be5 full$1 rais$1 & cropp$1 z bucksk91 flannel1 etc41 ! direction ( ! nap w indicate ! direction ( ! w>p1 s9ce ! nap runs 9 ?is direction4 ,9 ! case ( fabrics ) d\bl$ & s+le ?reads1 ! d\bl$ ?reads are always f\nd 9 ! w>p4 ,9 fabrics compos$ ( cotton & wool5 ?reads runn+ 9 diff]5t directions1 ! cotton y>n usually =ms ! w>p & ! wool5 y>n ! fill+4 ,!n aga9 ! w>p ?reads ( all fabrics are m tightly twi/$ ?an ! fill+ ?reads1 & are sep>at$ at m regul> int]vals4 ,sometimes 9 /iff5$ or />*$ goods ?reads runn+ 9 only "o direction c be se54 ,9 ?is case !y are ! w>p ?reads4 ,if "o set ( ?reads appe>s /iff] & /raight] ?an ! o!r1 ! =m] may be reg>d$ z w>p1 :ile ! r\gh & crook$ ?reads are ! fill+4 ,! y>n also gives "o a h9t1 s9ce ! bett]1 long]1 & high] numb] mat]ial con/itutes ! w>p1 :ile ! ?ick] y>n ! fill+4 ,! direction ( ! twi/ ( ! ?read is conclusive2 if "o set has a /rong "r twi/ & ! o!r a left twi/ ! fir/ is ! w>p4 ,aft] det]m9+ ! direction ( ! w>p & fill+1 ! next po9t is to det]m9e ! int]lac+ ( ! w>p & fill+ ?reads--! weave4 ,?is may be done by inspection or by means ( a pick-glass & ne$le4 ,! weave may be plott$ on design pap] 7plott+ pap]71 ! project+ w>p ?reads be+ indicat$ by fill+ up ! correspond+ squ>e1 & leav+ ^? ref]r+ to ! fill+ ?reads blank4 ,9 ?is way ! weav+ patt]n ( ! sample is obta9$1 & s]ves z a guide to ! weav] 9 mak+ ! fabric1 z well z = ! prep>ation ( ! patt]n c>ds = ! ,jacqu>d loom4 ,te/+ ! ,/r5g? & ,ela/icity ( a ,fabric4 ,! old-fa%ion$ plan ( te/+ clo? by te>+ x by ! h& is unreliable1 because te>+ frequ5tly requires only a c]ta9 skill$ knack :]eby ! be/ mat]ial c be pull$ 9 two4 ,9 ?is way an exp]i5c$ man may tell good f bad clo?1 b he _c det]m9e slight diff]5ces 9 quality1 because he has ex]t$ 8 /r5g? s (t5 t 8 capacity to di/+ui% ! actual =ce has disappe>$4 ,! be/ means ( det]m9+ ! /r5g? ( a fabric is by means ( a me*anical dynamomet]1#ai :i* expresses ! t5sile /r5g? ( ! fabric 9 t]ms ( weight4 ,! ma*9e is v useful to ! manufactur] because x enables him to comp>e accurately 8 v>i\s products ) ^? ( 8 competitors4 ,! value ( ^! te/s is suffici5tly prov$ by ! fact t all army clo?+ dep>tm5ts1 etc41 require _! supplies ( clo?1 etc41 to pass a def9ite te/ = /r5g?4 ,break+ te/s also af=d ! mo/ c]ta9 pro( to blea*]s ( cotton & l95 goods z to :e!r ! blea*+ has burn$ or weak5$ ! goods4 ,! same te/ w quickly det]m9e :e!r a fabric has be5 improp]ly treat$ 9 ! laundry4 ,det]m9+ ! ,c\nt ( ,w>p & ,fill+ ,?reads4 ,e fabric mu/ conta9 a c]ta9 c\nt ( w>p & fill+ ?reads--a def9ite numb] )9 a c]ta9 space = ea* /r5g? ( y>n employ$4 ,a fabric is n up to ! /&>d ( d5sity :5 less ?an ! requisite numb] ( w>p or fill+ ?reads p] in* is f\nd4 ,= example1 if a buy] 0 told t a fabric is #hj squ>e1 t is1 eighty w>p ?reads & eighty fill+ ?reads to ! in*1 & on exam9ation f\nd only #gb squ>e1 he w\ld imm$iately reject ! goods4 ,! c\nt ( w>p & fill+ is det]m9$ by means ( a pick-glass--a small m\nt$ magnify+ glass--! base ( :i* conta9s an op5+ ( "o-half in* by "o qu>t] in*1 or "o qu>t] in* by "o qu>t] in*4 ,if ! pick-glass is plac$ on ! fabric ! numb] ( w>p & fill+ ?reads may be c\nt$1 & ! result multipli$ by ei!r two or f\r1 s z to give ! numb] ( ?reads to ! in*4 ,= example1 if ,i c\nt tw5ty picks & tw5ty ?reads on a "o qu>t]-in* edge1 !re are eighty picks & eighty ?reads to ! in*4 ,a m accurate result c be obta9$ by us+ a pick-glass ) a "o-in* op5+4 ,det]m9ation ( ,%r9kage4 ,a v important factor 9 ! value ( a fabric is ! %r9kage4 ,! ext5t ( ?is may be det]m9$ by p\r+ hot wat] ov] a sample ( ab\t twelve by tw5ty in*es1 & leav+ ! fabric imm]s$ ov] night1 !n dry+ x at a mod]ate temp]ature )\t /ret*+4 ,! diff]5ce 9 l5g? gives ! %r9kage1 :i* is usually express$ 9 p]c5tage4 ,det]m9ation ( ,weight4 ,buy]s & sell]s ( dry goods1 :5 travel+1 are anxi\s to det]m9e ! weight ( fabrics !y exam9e4 ,?is may be done by means ( small pocket balances s con/ruct$ z to give ! numb] ( ounces to ! y>d ( a fabric4 ,te/+ ! ,con/itu5ts ( ! ,w>p & ,fill+4 ,take a sample piece ( ! clo? to be exam9$--! piece mu/ be l>ge en\gh to conta9 specim5s ( all ! diff]5t k9ds ( y>n pres5t 9 ! mat]ial--& sep>ate all ! fill+ & w>p ?reads4 ,be sure t all d\ble ?reads are untwi/$4 ,combu/ion ,te/2 ,te/ = ,vegetable & ,animal ,fib]s4 ,burn sep>ately a sample ( ! untwi/$ w>p & fill+ ?reads4 ,if "o or bo? burn quickly )\t a greasy odor1 !y are vegetable fib]s1 cotton or l954 ,if "o or bo? burn sl[ly & give (f a greasy odor1 !y are animal fib]s1 wool or silk4 ,?is te/ is n conclusive1 & fur!r *emical exam9ation--acid te/--mu/ be made to asc]ta9 :e!r wool is pure or mix$ ) cotton4 ,acid ,te/4 ,! vegetable fib]s1 cotton & l951 are di/+ui%$ f ^? ( animal orig9 by _! behavior 9 ! pres5ce ( acids & alkalies4 ,! vegetable are insoluble :5 boil$ ) a #d p] c5t sodium hydrate solution1 b readily cle> or c>bonize :5 saturat$ ) a #c p] c5t sulphuric acid solution & all[$ to dry at a high temp]ature 9 a hot closet4 ,wool on ! o!r h& is n affect$ by ! action ( weak sulphuric acid4 ,cotton ,di/+ui%$ f ,l954 ,if ! fib]s are vegetable1 cotton may be di/+ui%$ f l95 by /a9+ ! fib]s ) fu*s9e4 ,if ! fib]s turn r$1 & ?is coloration disappe>s on ! addition ( ammonia1 !y are cotton1 if ! r$ color rema9s ! fib]s are l954 ,:5ev] cotton y>n is us$ to adult]ate o!r fabrics1 x we>s %abby & loses its brightness4 ,:5 x is us$ to adult]ate l951 x becomes fuzzy ?r\gh we>4 ,"o may detect x 9 l95 by roll+ ! goods betwe5 ?umb & f+]4 ,l95 is a heavi] fabric1 & wr9kles mu* m readily ?an cotton4 ,x we>s bett]1 & has an exquisite fre%ness t is n notic$ 9 cotton fabrics4 ,silk ,di/+ui%$ f ,wool4 ,place ! fabric or ?reads conta9+ animal fib]s 9 cold1 conc5trat$ hydro*loric acid4 ,if silk is pres5t x w dissolve1 :ile wool m]ely swells4 ,artificial ,silk f ,silk4 ,on acc\nt ( ! l[ value ( ! artificial & ! high value ( g5u9e silk1 !re is a t5d5cy to (f] ! artificial in/ead ( ! pure article4 ,te/3 ,:5 artificial silk is boil$ 9 #d p] c5t potassium hydrate solution x produces a yell[ solution1 :ile pure silk gives a colorless solution4 ,a common te/ is to put ! artificial silk 9 wat]1 :]e x w pull ap>t z ?\gh rott52 or to take out "o /r& ( ! silk1 hold x betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb ( ea* h& & wet ! middle ( ! /r& ) ! tongue1 :5 x w pull ap>t z ?\gh rott54 ,artificial silk is inf]ior 9 /r5g? & ela/icity to pure silk4 ,!n aga9 x is lack+ 9 ! crackl+ feel+ notic$ 9 h&l+ ! g5u9e article4 ,te/ = ,%oddy4 ,x is no easy matt] to detect %oddy 9 wool5 fabrics2 ! color ( ! %oddy ?reads is ! be/ evid5ce4 ,_m p>cels ( rags are ( "o s+le color1 b = ! mo/ "p !y are made ( v>i\s color$ wools2 !re=e1 if on exam9ation ( a fabric ) a magnify+ glass a y>n ( any p>ticul> color is f\nd to conta9 a numb] ( individual fib]s ( gl>+ colors1 ! pres5ce ( %oddy c be assum$ ) c]ta9ty4 ,wool5 goods conta9+ cotton are seldom made f natural wool4 ,%oddy y>ns1 especially 9 w9t] goods1 are f\nd 9 ! "u-fill+ at ! rev]se side ( ! clo?1 z ?ick1 tightly twi/$ y>ns1 curli] ?an ^? f ! pure wool4 ,det]m9ation ( ! ,dress+4 ,dur+ ! v>i\s op]ations ( wa%+1 blea*+1 etc41 ! goods lose 9 weight1 & to make up ?is deficit a mod]ate am\nt ( dress+ or load+ is employ$4 ,dress+ is n reg>d$ z an adult]ation1 b z an embelli%m5t4 ,v>i\s dress+ mat]ials are us$1 su* z />*1 fl\r1 m9]al matt]s1 to give ! goods /iffness & feel on "o h&1 & on ! o!r to conceal defects 9 ! clo?1 & to give a solid appe>ance to goods ( op5 texture4 ,! m9]al sub/ances us$ s]ve *iefly = fill+ & weight+1 & necessitate ! employm5t ( a c]ta9 quantity ( />*1 etc4 ,9 ord] t ! latt] may n r5d] ! clo? too /iff & h>d1 fur!r additions ( "s emolli5t1 su* z glyc]9e1 oils1 etc41 are necess>y4 ,:5 a fabric fill$ 9 ?is mann] is plac$ 9 wat] & rubb$ betwe5 ! h&s1 ! dress+ is remov$1 & ! quantity employ$ c be easily det]m9$4 ,by hold+ fabrics be=e ! light dress+ w be recogniz$1 & su* goods1 if rubb$ betwe5 ! f+]s1 w lose _! /iffness4 ,load+ is reveal$ by ! production ( du/ on rubb+1 & by ! aid ( ! magnify+ glass x c be easily asc]ta9$ :e!r ! cov]+ or dress+ is m]ely sup]ficial or p5etrates into ! sub/ance ( ! fabric4 ,! te/s ( p]man5ce ( dyes on fabrics are z foll[s3 ,wa%+ ,fa/ness4 ,fabrics %\ld /& me*anical friction z well z ! action ( soap liquor & ! temp]ature ( ! wa%+ op]ation4 ,9 ord] to te/ ! fabric = fa/ness a piece %\ld be plac$ 9 a soap solution simil> to t us$ 9 ! ord9>y h\sehold1 & heat$ to #aca degrees ,f4 ,! treatm5t %\ld be repeat$ sev]al times4 ,if ! color fails to run x is fa/ to wa%+4 ,fa/ness ,"u ,friction4 ,/ock+s1 hosi]y y>ns1 corset /uffs1 & all fabrics int5d$ to be worn next to ! sk9 mu/ be p]man5t "u friction1 & mu/ n rub (f1 /a91 or run1 t is1 ! dy$ mat]ials mu/ n give (f _! color :5 worn next to ! human epid]mis 7sk971 or 9 close contact ) color$ articles ( clo?+1 z 9 ! case ( und]we>4 ,! simple/ te/ is to rub ! fabric or y>n on :ite un/>*$ cotton fabric4 ,9 comp>+ ! fa/ness ( two fabrics x is necess>y to h ! rubb+ equal 9 all cases4 ,resi/ance to ,p]spiration4 ,) fabrics com+ 9 contact ) ! human sk9 x is necess>y 9 addition to fa/ness "u friction t !y %\ld )/& ! excretions ( ! body4 ,! acids ( p]spiration 7acetic1 =mic1 & butyric7 (t5 become s conc5trat$ t !y act on ! fib] ( ! fabric4 ,9 ord] to te/ ! fabric = resi/ance1 place ! sample 9 a ba? ( #cj p] c5t dilute acetic acid 7"o teaspoonful to a qu>t ( wat]7 w>m$ to ! temp]ature ( ! body1 #ih4f degrees ,f4 ,! sample %\ld be dipp$ a numb] ( times1 & !n dri$ )\t r9s+ betwe5 p>*m5t pap]4 ,fa/ness aga9/ ,ra94 ,silk & wool5 mat]ials = umbrella mak+1 ra9coats1 etc41 are expect$ to be ra9pro(4 ,^! fabrics are te/$ by plait+ ) undy$ y>ns & left to /& all night 9 cold wat]4 ,resi/ance to ,/reet ,mud & ,du/4 ,ladies' dress goods are expect$ to )/& ! action ( mud & du/4 ,9 ord] to te/ a fabric = ?is resi/ance ! sample %\ld be moi/5$ ) lime & wat] 7#aj p] c5t solution71 dri$1 & bru%$4 ,or spr9kle ) a #aj p] c5t solution ( soda1 dry+1 bru%+1 & not+ any *anges 9 color4 ,fa/ness to ,wea!r1 ,light1 & ,air4 ,v>i\s p h attempt$ to set up /&>d degrees ( fa/ness--= e %ade ( color is affect$ by ! action ( sun1 light1 & air--& z a result fabrics t rema9 )\t appreciable alt]ation = a mon? ( exposure to direct summ] sunlight are classifi$ z fa/1 & ^? und]go+ slight appreciable *ange "u ! same conditions z fairly fa/4 ,mod]ately fa/ colors are ^? alt]+ consid]ably 9 f\rte5 days2 & ^? m or less completely fad$ 9 ! same "t 7f\rte5 days7 are designat$ z fleet+4 ,directions = te/+ fa/ness ( ,color 9 ,sunlight4 ,cov] "o end ( ! sample ( clo? ) a piece ( c>dbo>d4 ,expose ! fabric to ! sunlight = a numb] ( days & exam9e ! clo? ea* day 9 ! d>k & notice :e!r ! "p expos$ has *ang$ 9 color :5 comp>$ ) ! "p cov]$4 ,c\nt ! numb] ( days x has tak5 ! sunlight to *ange ! color4 ,br[n 9 wool5 mat]ials is likely to fade4 ,br[n holds its color 9 all g+ham mat]ials4 ,d>k blue is an excell5t color = wool5s & g+hams4 ,light blues on ! o!r h& usually *ange4 ,black1 gray1 & black ) :ite4 ,^! colors are v satisfactory = wool5 mat]ials4 ,black is n a color :i* we>s v well ) cotton fabrics1 z x %[s ! />* 7siz+7 & (t5 fades4 ,r$ is an excell5t color = all wool5 mat]ials4 ,x looks attractive & we>s well4 ,r$ is a v poor color = cotton4 ,x loses its brilliancy & frequ5t wa%+ spoils x4 ,a deep p9k is an excell5t color = all g+hams = x fades ev5ly & leaves a pretty %ade4 ,gre5 is a poor color = bo? cotton & wool5 mat]ials unless x is high pric$4 ,lav5d] fades m ?an any o!r color 9 textiles4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,textiles ,! ?ree fundam5tal indu/ries t h develop$ f necessity are ! fe$+1 %elt]+1 & clo?+ ( ! human race4 ,^! prim>y wants 7 fir/ gratifi$ be=e su* conv5i5ces z transportation & v>i\s l9es ( manufacture 7 ev5 consid]$4 ,next to furni%+ our food supply1 ! indu/ry ( supply+ clo?+ is ! olde/ & ! mo/ widely diffus$4 ,x is 9 ! manufacture ( textiles--includ+ all mat]ials us$ 9 ! manufactur+ ( clo?+--t human +5uity is be/ illu/rat$4 ,! magnitude ( ! textile indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates is evid5t :5 we consid] t x gives employm5t to a r\nd million ( p1 pay+ !m ne>ly five hundr$ million doll>s annually 9 wages & sal>ies1 produc+ ne>ly "o & ?ree-qu>t]s billion doll>s 9 gross value ea* ye>1 & giv+ a livelihood to at lea/ ?ree millions ( our population4 ,wool1 cotton1 flax1 & silk h be5 us$ s9ce e>ly times4 ,ev5 9 ! e>li] days ^! fib]s 7 wov5 ) great skill4 ,x is n kn[n :i* fib] 0 ! fir/ to be us$ 9 weav+4 ,x is probable1 h[ev]1 t ! possession ( flocks & h]ds l$ to ! sp9n+ & weav+ ( wool be=e cotton1 flax1 or silk fib]s 7 ?us us$4 ,wool4 ,! date at :i* prehi/oric man disc>d$ ! pelt ( sk9s = ! wov5 fabric ( wool m>ks ! orig9 ( ! textile indu/ry4 ,primitive %eep 7 cov]$ ) hair & ! wool :i* n[ *>act]izes !m 0 !n a d[ny "u-coat4 ,z "t w5t on & ! art ( sp9n+ & weav+ develop$1 ! food value ( %eep decreas$1 :ile ! wool value increas$4 ,! hairy flocks 7 br$ out1 & ! %eep ) true wool1 l ! m]9o1 surviv$4 ,%eep 7 br$ pr9cipally = ! wool & n = ! mutton4 ,wool5 fabrics 7 worn by ! e>ly inhabitants ( ,p]sia & ,pale/9e4 ,! ,p]sians 7 not$ = ! excell5t fabrics !y wove f wool4 ,ev5 ! ,hebrews ( an e>ly date 7 v skilful 9 weav+ wool5s4 ,! e>ly ,romans 7 a race ( %eph]ds & ! wom5 ( ! high] classes wove ! clo? 9 _! own homes4 ,:5 ,caes> invad$ ,engl&1 he f\nd 9 ! s\!rn "p ( ! isl& p acqua9t$ ) ! sp9n+ & weav+ ( wool & l954 ,) ! d[nfall ( ,rome1 ! art ( weav+ clo? 9 ,europe 0 almo/ lo/1 & p aga9 wore furs & sk9s4 ,by ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury ,engli% clo? manufactur+ _h begun to revive4 ,9 ! nor!rn "p ( ,italy c]ta9 ,italians _h flocks ( %eep & obta9$ v f9e wool1 & ! p ( ,fl&]s cont9u$ to develop skill 9 weav+ dur+ ! ,d>k ,ages4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ! wool5 manufactur]s ( ,fl&]s _h gr[n to be ( great importance1 & "s ( ! f9e/ goods 7 %ipp$ f !re to _m c\ntries4 ,9 ,engl&1 up to ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iii1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ! wool produc$ 0 export$ to ! ,ne!rl&s1 !re to be wov5 into clo?4 ,edw>d ,,iii invit$ _m ( ! ,flemi% weav]s to come to ,engl& to tea* ! ,engli% p h[ to make _! own clo!s4 ,edw>d 0 call$ ! ,royal ,wool ,m]*ant & also ! ,fa!r ( ,engli% ,comm]ce4 ,dur+ ,elizabe?'s reign 9 ! sixte5? c5tury ! *ief article ( export 0 wool5 clo?4 ,9 #afhe ! ,hugu5ots1 :o 7 driv5 f ,france1 w5t to ,engl& to settle4 ,^! p 7 not$ = _! skill 9 weav+4 ,pati5t ef=t 9 c>e & bre$+ ( %eep %[$ a /eady increase 9 ! quantity & quality ( wool until #ahaj1 & ! proportion ( %eep to ! population 0 !n great] ?an at ! pres5t "t4 ,our own climate is highly favorable = %eep bre$+1 & x is c]ta9 t ! ,am]ican %eep has no sup]ior 9 any wool gr[+ c\ntry1 9 con/itutional vigor & /r5g? ( wool-fib]1 & no wools make m durable or m valuable clo?+4 ,! ob/acles to %eep husb&ry 9 c]ta9 p>ts ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 l ,new ,engl&1 are ma9ly climatic4 ,! natural home ( ! only races ( %eep :i* c be h]d$ 9 l>ge flocks is an elevat$ tablel&1 l ! /eppes ( ,russia & ! great pla9s ( ,asia1 ,arg5t9a1 ,montana1 ,wyom+1 & o!rs ( our we/]n /ates :]e an op5 air range is possible = ne>ly twelve mon?s 9 ! ye>4 ,9 ^! elevat$ l&s !re are grasses :i* are m nutriti\s 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]4 ,! climate ( ,new ,engl& does n p]mit ! gr[? ( su* grasses4 ,e grass :i* w gr[ 9 ,new ,engl& becomes 9 ! cold mon?s froz5 wood fib]4 ,!n aga9 !re is ! frigid & p5etrat+ atmosph]e :i* necessitates h\s+ ! %eep 9 w9t]1 & ^! animals _c be closely h\s$ )\t eng5d]+ a v>iety ( p>asitic diseases4 ,cotton4 ,long be=e hi/ory 0 writt51 cotton 0 us$ 9 mak+ fabrics 9 ,india & ,*9a4 ,cotton has be5 = ?\s&s ( ye>s ! lead+ fabric ( ! ,ea/4 ,! ,h9doos h = c5turies ma9ta9$ almo/ unapproa*able p]fection 9 _! cotton fabrics4 ,x 0 ! ,arabian c>avans t br\ght ,indian calicoes & musl9s into ,europe4 ,cotton 0 fir/ cultivat$ 9 ,europe by ! ,moors 9 ,spa9 9 ! n9? c5tury4 ,9 #adcj x 0 import$ into ,engl& 9 l>ge quantities4 ,! section ( ,engl& ab\t ,man*e/] became 9 "t ! seat ( ! great cotton indu/ry2 ?is 0 due to ! settlem5t ( sp9n]s & weav]s f ,fl&]s4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 ! ,ea/ ,indies ,trad+ ,company 0 e/abli%$4 ,n only 0 cotton import$1 b also ,india musl9s4 ,?is caus$ tr\ble because ( ! decrease 9 ! dem& = wool5 goods manufactur$ 9 ,engl&4 ,a law 0 pass$ prohibit+ ! import+ ( cotton goods & lat] ! manufactur+ ( !m1 b ?is law 0 repeal$ on acc\nt ( ! great dem& = cotton mat]ials4 ,columbus f\nd cotton g>m5ts worn by ! natives ( ! ,we/ ,indies4 ,lat] ,cortez f\nd t cotton 0 us$ 9 ,mexico2 h5ce1 cotton is indig5\s to ,am]ica4 ,9 #aeai ,cortez made ! fir/ record$ export ( cotton f ,am]ica to ,europe4 ,9 #agcd cotton 0 plant$ 9 ,georgia4 ,bales ( cotton 7 s5t to ,engl&1 & ! manufactur+ ( clo? 0 soon "u way4 ,:ile ! colonies 7 try+ to ga9 indep5d5ce1 ,engl& impos$ a f9e on anyone s5d+ cotton ma*9]y to ,am]ica1 & re/rictions 7 put on manufactur+ & imports ( any k9d4 ,aft] ! ,w> ( ,indep5d5ce _m ( ! s\!rn /ates began to raise cotton 9 l>g] quantities4 ,! inv5tion ( ! cotton-g9 by ,eli ,:itney 0 "o ( ! great inv5tions ( ! age4 ,:ile only two p\nds ( cotton c\ld be se$$ by h& by "o p]son 9 a day1 ! g9 made x possible to d sev]al hundr$ p\nds4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,civil ,w> ! great] "p ( ! cotton us$ by ,engli% manufactur]s 0 import$ f ! s\!rn /ates4 ,! clos+ ( ! s\!rn ports dur+ ! w> affect$ ! cotton indu/ry ?r\gh\t ! _w4 ,l>ge mills 9 ,engl& 7 clos$1 & ?\s&s ( p 7 out ( employm5t4 ,/eps 7 !n tak5 to enc\rage p ( ,india1 ,egypt1 ,c5tral & ,s\? ,am]ica to increase _! production ( cotton1 & f t "t on1 cotton f ^! c\ntries has be5 f\nd 9 ! g5]al m>ket4 ,cotton is n[ cultivat$ 9 ne>ly all c\ntries )9 ! limits #de nor? & #ce s\? ( ! equator4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! ,unit$ ,/ates ranks fir/ 9 ! production & export ( cotton4 ,( all ! /ates1 ,texas & ,georgia produce ! l>ge/ am\nt4 ,ab\t "o-?ird ( ! entire crop is us$ 9 our own mills2 #bej1jjj1jjj wor? ( cotton is annually export$1 pr9cipally ?r\gh ,new ,orleans1 ,new ,york1 ,savannah1 & ,galve/on4 ,?ree-fif?s ( ?is quantity goes to mills 9 ,engl&2 ,g]many1 ,france1 & ,switz]l& take a l>ge "p ( ! rema9d]4 ,! value ( cotton is %[n by ! fact t ab\t "o-half ! p ( ! e>? we> clo?+ made entirely ( cotton1 & ! o!r half 7) ! exception ( "s savage tribes7 use x 9 "p ( ! dress4 ,l954 ,l95 has always be5 held 9 great e/eem4 ,! g>m5ts ( ! ,egyptian1 ,hebrew1 ,greek1 & ,roman prie/s 7 made ( ! f9e/ l954 ,dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 ,italy1 ,spa91 & ,france 7 celebrat$ = _! l95 fabrics4 ,religi\s intol]ance 9 ,france drove #cjj1jjj ( h] be/ textile work]s into ,engl&1 ,irel&1 & ,scotl&4 ,iri% l95 weav+ began z e>ly z ! elev5? c5tury4 ,l95 has nev] be5 l>gely wov5 9 ,am]ica except 9 ! co>s] =ms ( cra% & t[el+1 al?\gh l95 weav+ 0 "o ( ! ,puritan dome/ic indu/ries4 ,! reason ,am]ica has n be5 able to equal ,europe 9 its production ( f9e l95s is because ! process = sep>at+ ! fib] f ! /alk requires ! *eape/ =m ( labor to make x pr(itable1 h5ce mo/ ( ! ,am]ican-gr[n flax is rais$ only = se$4 ,silk4 ,silk 0 us$ 9 ! ,ea/ z a fabric = ! nobility4 ,x 0 fir/ us$ 9 ,*9a & lat] 9 ,india4 ,x 0 br\ght into ,europe ab\t ! six? c5tury4 ,up to t "t ! ,*9ese _h a monopoly ( ! indu/ry4 ,by ! t5? & elev5? c5turies silk fabrics 7 made 9 ,spa9 & ,italy4 ,at ! close ( ! sixte5? c5tury silk 0 be+ produc$ at ,lyons1 ,france4 ,x 0 aft]w>ds introduc$ into ,engl&1 & ! ,engli% silk = a long "t replac$ ! ,fr5* 9 ! ,european m>ket4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,organization ,,( ,,textile ,,indu/ries ,! developm5t ( ! textile indu/ry may be divid$ into f\r /ages or p]iods3 fir/1 ! family sy/em2 second1 ! guild sy/em2 ?ird1 ! dome/ic sy/em2 & f\r?1 ! factory sy/em4 ,! ,family ,sy/em4 ,"u ! family sy/em ! "w ( sp9n+ & weav+ 0 c>ri$ on by memb]s ( a h\sehold = ! purpose ( supply+ ! family ) clo?+4 ,!re 7 no sales ( ! product4 ,ea* class 9 society1 f ! peasant class to t ( ! nobleman1 _h its own devices = mak+ clo?+4 ,?is 0 ! sy/em t exi/$ up to ab\t ! t5? c5tury4 ,! ,guild ,sy/em4 ,z communities became l>g] & cities sprang up1 ! textile indu/ry became m ?an a family conc]n4 ,!re 0 a dem& = bett] fabrics1 & to meet ?is dem& x became necess>y to h a l>ge supply ( diff]5t p>ts ( looms4 ,! small weav] :o own$ & con/ruct$ 8 own loom 0 n able to h all ^! p>ts1 s he began to "w = a m prosp]\s weav]4 ,! same conditions appli$ to sp9n+1 & z e>ly z #agdj sp9n+ 0 c>ri$ on by a class di/9ct f ! weav]s4 ,z a result ! small weav] 0 driv5 out by ! gr[? ( organiz$ capital1 & a m p]fect organization1 call$ ! guild sy/em1 arose4 ,by ?is sy/em ! textile indu/ry 0 c>ri$ on by a small gr\p ( m5 call$ ma/]s1 employ+ two1 ?ree or m m5 7di/+ui%$ lat] z j\rneym5 & appr5tices74 ,! ma/]s organiz$ associations call$ guilds & dom9at$ all ! conditions ( ! manufacture to a f> great] ext5t ?an is possible "u pres5t conditions4 ,x 0 ! family sy/em t exi/$ 9 ! ,am]ican colonies at ! beg9n+ ( ! settlem5t1 & = _m ye>s aft]4 ,! guild sy/em 0 n adopt$ 9 ,am]ica because x 0 go+ out ( exi/5ce on ! ,cont95t4 ,! ,dome/ic ,p]iod4 ,by ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury ! textile indu/ry began to break away f ! guilds & spread f cities to ! rural di/ricts4 ,! "w 0 /ill c>ri$ on 9 ! ma/]'s h\se1 al?\gh he _h lo/ ! economic indep5d5ce t he _h "u ! old guild sy/em :]e he act$ bo? z m]*ant & manufactur]4 ,he n[ receiv$ 8 raw mat]ial f ! m]*ant & dispos$ ( ! f9i%$ goods to a middleman1 :o look$ aft] ! dem&s ( ! m>ket4 ,! ,factory ,sy/em4 ,! dome/ic p]iod 0 9 turn cr[d$ out ( exi/5ce by ! factory sy/em4 ,a factory is a place :]e goods are produc$ by p[] = comm]cial use4 ,! factory sy/em fir/ came into prom95ce aft] ! inv5tion ( ! /eam eng9e4 ,no record has be5 f\nd %[+ its exi/5ce prior to ?is inv5tion4 ,engli% weav]s & sp9n]s became v skilful & inv5t$ diff]5t me*anical aids = ! production ( y>n & clo?4 ,^! me*anical aids n only enabl$ "o man to d tw5ty m5's "w1 b fur!r utilization 0 made ( wat] & /eam p[] 9 place ( manual labor4 ,!n began ! organization ( ! indu/ry on a truly gigantic scale1 comb9+ capital & ma*9]y & result+ 9 :at is kn[n z ! factory sy/em4 ,previ\s to ! developm5t ( ! factory sy/em !re 0 no reason :y any indu/ry %\ld be c5t]$ 9 "o p>ticul> di/rict4 ,^u ! utilization ( /eam p[] ! textile indu/ry became subdivid$ into a numb] ( indu/ries1 ea* "o becom+ to a great ext5t localiz$ 9 conv5i5t & suitable portions ( ! c\ntry4 ,?us 9 ,brad=d ! wool ( ,york%ire 7,engl&7 meets ! coal ( ,york%ire & makes ,brad=d ! great wool5 & wor/$ c5t] ( ! _w4 ,! same ?+ took place 9 ,man*e/]1 :]e ! cotton ( ,am]ica meets ! coal ( ,engl& "u satisfactory climatic conditions1 & ar\nd ,man*e/] is ! greate/ cotton manufactur+ ( ! _w4 ,! same is true 9 ,am]ica4 ,lawr5ce became a l>ge wor/$ c5t] on acc\nt ( ! great fall ( wat] & ! use ( ! riv] to deposit wool wa%+s4 ,l[ell1 ,fall ,riv]1 & ,new ,b$=d became l>ge cotton c5t]s = simil> reasons4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,manufactur+ ,illu/ration3 ,,sp9n+ ,,:orl ,"o ( ! e>lie/ devices us$ = sp9n+ ,sp9n+4 ,sp9n+ & weav+ are two ( ! e>lie/ arts practis$ by man4 ,y>n = ! mak+ ( clo? 0 spun 9 ! e>lie/ times by ! use ( ! di/aff & sp9dle4 ,! sp9dle 0 a r\nd /ick ( wood a foot or less 9 l5g?1 tap]+ at ea* end4 ,a r+ ( /one or clay 0 plac$ on ! sp9dle to give x /ead9ess & mom5tum :5 x revolv$4 ,at ! top ( ! sp9dle 0 a slit or not* 9 :i* ! y>n 0 caught4 ,! di/aff 0 a l>g]1 /\t] /ick1 ar\nd "o end ( :i* ! mat]ial to be spun 0 w\nd 9 a loose ball4 ,! sp9n] fix$ ! end ( ! di/aff "u h] left arm s t ! coil ( mat]ial 0 9 a conv5i5t position = draw+ out to =m ! y>n4 ,! end ( ! y>n1 aft] be+ prep>$1 0 ins]t$ 9 ! not*1 & ! sp9dle 0 set 9 motion by roll+ x ) ! "r h& aga9/ ! leg4 ,!n ! sp9n] drew f ! di/aff an additional am\nt ( fib]1 :i* 0 =m$ by ! "r h& into uni=m /r&s4 ,aft] ! y>n 0 twi/$1 x 0 releas$ f ! not* & w\nd ar\nd ! l[] "p ( ! sp9dle4 ,9 ord] to sp9 y>n by ! primitive sp9n]1 x 0 necess>y = ! fib] to h suffici5t l5g? to enable x to be manipulat$1 drawn ov]1 & twi/$ by ! f+]s4 ,x is not$ t ! y>ns = ! gossam]-l ,dacca musl9s ( ,india 7 s f9e t "o p\nd ( cotton 0 spun into a ?read #bec miles long4 ,?is 0 accompli%$ ) ! aid ( a bamboo sp9dle n mu* bigg] ?an a d>n+ ne$le1 :i* 0 lightly weight$ ) a pellet ( clay4 ,s9ce su* a sl5d] ?read c\ld n support ev5 ! weight ( s slight a sp9dle1 ! app>atus 0 rotat$ ^u a piece ( holl[ %ell4 ,x ?us appe>s t ! primitive sp9n]s ) di/aff & sp9dle _h no?+ to le>n 9 po9t ( f95ess f ev5 ! mo/ advanc$ me?ods ( sp9n+ by ma*9]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,h& ,,sp9n+ ,f a ,f\rte5? ,c5tury ,,ms4 9 ! ,briti% ,museum ,c]ta9 rude =ms ( ! sp9n+ :eel seem to h be5 kn[n f "t immemorial4 ,! use ( ! :eel 9 ,europe _c1 h[ev]1 be dat$ back e>li] ?an ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,9 ! primitive :eel ! sp9dle1 hav+ a groove work$ 9 its :orl1 0 m\nt$ horizontally 9 a framework fix$ to ! end ( a b5*4 ,a b& pass$ ar\nd ! :orl & 0 c>ri$ ar\nd a l>ge :eel fix$ f>!r back on ! b5*1 & ?is :eel1 be+ turn$ by ! h& ( ! sp9n]1 gave a rapid rotation to ! sp9dle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,anci5t ,,loom ,f an ,egyptian ,monum5t ,! fib]s to be spun 7 fir/ comb$ out by means ( c>d+ bo>ds--an implem5t ( unkn[n antiquity1 consi/+ ( two bo>ds ) wire tee? set 9 !m at a uni=m angle4 ,! fib] to be c>d$ 0 ?9ly spread ^u "o ( ! bo>ds1 & !n ! o!r 0 pu%$ backw>d & =w>d across x1 ! tee? ( ! two ov]lapp+ at opposite angles1 until ! fib]s 7 comb$ out & laid /raight 9 p>allel l9es4 ,! fib]s 7 !n scrap$ (f ! bo>ds 9 roll]s or c>d+s ab\t twelve in*es long & ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* 9 diamet]4 ,an end ( ! c>d+ 0 !n atta*$ to ! sp9dle & ! :eel set 9 motion4 ,! c>d+ itself 0 held 9 ! h& ( ! sp9n] & gradually drawn out & twi/$ by ! rotation ( ! sp9dle4 ,z soon z a suffici5t l5g? _h be5 att5uat$ & twi/$ to ! requir$ f95ess1 ! ?read s produc$ 0 held at "r angles to ! sp9dle & all[$ to w9d up on x4 ,b = f9e sp9n+ two op]ations ( ! :eel 7 g5]ally necess>y4 ,by ! fir/ sp9n+ ! fib]s 7 drawn out & slightly att5uat$ into :at 0 call$ a rov+1 & by ! second sp9n+ ! rov+ itself pass$ ?r\gh a simil> cycle ( op]ations to br+ x to ! requir$ degree ( att5uation & twi/4 ,_m improvem5ts 9 ! primitive :eel 7 introduc$ f "t to "t4 ,9 its lat] developm5ts two sp9dles 7 employ$1 ! sp9n] be+ ?us enabl$ to manipulate two ?reads at once1 "o 9 ea* h&4 ,?is 0 ! late/ =m ( ! sp9n+-:eel1 & x surviv$ until x 0 sup]s$$ 9 ! eighte5? c5tury by ! great s]ies ( inv5tions :i* inaugurat$ ! indu/rial revolution & l$ 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury to ! introduction ( ! factory sy/em4 ,illu/ration3 ,,e>li] ,,sp9n+ ,,& ,,weav+ ,f a ,fifte5? ,c5tury ,,ms4 9 ! ,briti% ,museum ,weav+4 ,:5 or :]e man fir/ began to weave clo? is n kn[n1 nor is x kn[n :e!r ?is art sprang f "o common c5t] or 0 inv5t$ by _m :o dwelt 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w4 ,!re is su* a sam5ess 9 ! e>ly devices = sp9n+ & weav+ t among "s m5 ( sci5ce x is ?\ght t ! art mu/ h come f a common c5t]4 ,fabrics 7 made on ! f>ms two or ?ree hundr$ ye>s ago 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ! m5 ( ! h\sehold rais$ ! flocks1 :ile ! wom5 spun ! y>n & wove ! fabrics4 ,9 ?is way ! indu/ry prosp]$1 giv+ occupation & income to ?\s&s ( ! agricultural class4 ,y might say t 9 ,engl& fabrics 7 a by-product ( agriculture4 ,z "t w5t on1 f>m]s ( c]ta9 sections ( ,engl& became m exp]t 9 ! art1 & ! weav+ became sep>at$ f ! sp9n+4 ,! weav]s became clu/]$ 9 c]ta9 t[ns on acc\nt ( ! high] skill requir$ = ! f9] fabrics4 ,! r\gh "w ( f>m+ made ! h&s ( ! weav] less skilful4 ,?is1 c\pl$ ) ! fact t ! looms became m complicat$ ) improvem5ts1 call$ = a m exp]i5c$ man4 ,great inv5tions br\ght ab\t a m rapid developm5t ( ! factory4 ,ri*>d ,arkwright1 :o has be5 call$ ! fa!r ( ! factory sy/em1 built ! fir/ cotton mill 9 ! _w 9 ,nott+ham 9 #agfi4 ,! :eels 7 turn$ by horses4 ,9 #agga ,arkwright erect$ at ,craw=d a new mill :i* 0 turn$ by wat] p[] & suppli$ ) ma*9]y to accompli% ! :ole op]ation ( cotton sp9n+ 9 "o mill1 ! fir/ ma*9e receiv+ ! cotton z x came f ! bale & ! la/ w9d+ ! cotton y>n ^u ! bobb9s4 ,*ildr5 7 employ$ 9 ?is mill1 z !y 7 f\nd to be m dext]\s 9 ty+ ! brok5 ends4 ,z ! result ( ?is great inv5tion1 factories sprang up ev]y:]e 9 ,engl&1 *ang+ ! c\ntry sc5e into a collection ( factories1 ) tall *imneys1 brick build+s1 & /reets4 ,f #agcj to ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! developm5t ( inv5tions 0 rapid3 #agcj--;,fir/ cotton y>n spun 9 ,engl& by ma*9]y by ,wyatt4 #agcc--;,engli% pat5t grant$ ,john ,kay = ! inv5tion ( ! fly %uttle4 #agch--,pat5t grant$ ,lewis ,paul = ! sp9n+ ma*9]y suppos$ to h be5 inv5t$ by ,wyatt4 #agdb--;,fir/ mill = sp9n+ cotton built at ,birm+ham2 mov$ by asses2 b n successful4 #agdh--,pat5t on a cyl9d] c>d z fir/ us$ by h&1 grant$ ,lewis ,paul4 #agej--;,fly %uttle 9 g5]al use 9 ,engl&4 #agef--;,cotton velvets & quilt+s fir/ made 9 ,engl&4 #agfj--,/ock c>ds fir/ us$ = cotton by ,j4 ,h>greave4 ,drop box inv5t$ by ,kay4 #agfb-fg--,sp9n+-j5ny inv5t$ by ,h>greave4 #agfi--;,arkwright obta9s 8 fir/ pat5t on sp9n+4 #aggd--;,bill pass$ 9 ,engl& to prev5t ! export ( cotton ma*9]y4 #agge--,second pat5t ( ,arkwright on c>d+1 draw+1 & sp9n+4 #aggi--,mule sp9n+ inv5t$ by ,crompton4 ,peele's pat5t on c>d+1 rov+1 & sp9n+4 #aghb--;,date ( ,watt's pat5t = ! /eam-eng9e4 #aghc--;,b\nty grant$ 9 ,engl& = ! export ( c]ta9 cotton goods4 #aghe--,p[] loom inv5t$ by ,c>twright4 ,cyl9d] pr9t+ inv5t$ by ,bell4 ,a w>p /op-motion describ$ 9 ,c>twright's pat5t4 #aghh--;,fir/ cotton factory built 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 at ,bev]ly4 #aghi--,sea ,isl& cotton fir/ plant$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,samuel ,slat] />ts cotton ma*9]y 9 ,new ,york4 #agij--;,fir/ cotton factory built 9 ,rhode ,isl& by ,slat]4 #agib--;,fir/ ,am]ican loom pat5t grant$ to ,kirk & ,leslie4 #agid--;,cotton-g9 pat5t$ by ,eli ,:itney4 #ahja--;,date giv5 = inv5tion ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e 9 ,france4 #ahjc--;,dress+ ma*9e & w>p] inv5t$ 9 ,engl& by ,radcliffe1 ,ross1 & ,johnson4 #ahjd--;,fir/ cotton mill built 9 ,new ,hamp%ire1 at ,new ,ipswi*4 #ahje--,p[] loom successfully introduc$ 9 ,engl& aft] _m failures4 #ahjf--;,fir/ cotton mill built 9 ,connecticut1 at ,pomfret4 #ahji--;,fir/ cotton mill built 9 ,ma9e1 at ,brunswick4 #ahab--;,fir/ cotton mill built at ,fall ,riv]4 #ahad--;,cotton op5] ) lap atta*m5t inv5t$ 9 ,engl& by ,creighton4 #ahae--,p[] loom introduc$ into ! ,unit$ ,/ates at ,wal?am4 #ahaf--;,fir/ loom temple ( ,ira ,drap] pat5t$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 #ahah--,ma*9]y = prep>+ sew+ cotton inv5t$ 9 ,engl& by ,holt4 #ahbb--;,fir/ cotton factory erect$ at ,l[ell4 #ahbc--;,diff]5tial motion = rov+ frames pat5t$ by ,arnold4 ,fir/ export ( raw cotton f ,egypt to ,engl&4 #ahbd--,tube frame or spe$] pat5t$ by ,dan=?4 #ahbe--,self-act+ mule pat5t$ 9 ,engl& by ,rob]ts4 #ahbh--,r+ sp9n+ pat5t$ by ,john ,?orpe4 ,cap sp9n+ pat5t$ by ,dan=?4 #ahbi--,revolv+ loom temple improvem5ts pat5t$ by ,ira ,drap]4 #ahcb--,/op-motion = draw+ frames inv5t$ by ,ba*eld]4 #ahcc--,r+ sp9n+ frames fir/ built by ,william ,mason4 #ahcd--,weft =k pat5t$ 9 ,engl& by ,ramsbottom & ,hope4 ,%uttle-*ang+ loom by ,reid & ,johnson4 #ahdj--;,automatic loom l$ (f4 ,important temple improvem5t4 #ahdi--;,fir/ cotton mill erect$ 9 ,lawr5ce4 ,?r\gh ?is great *ange f h& to p[] "w1 ?\s&s 7 ?r[n out ( employm5t 9 ! great textile c5t]s1 & mu* suff]+ occurr$1 :i* l$ to ! sma%+ ( ma*9]y4 ,knitt+ ,ma*9]y4 ,l _m o!r indu/ries1 ! hosi]y trade owes its fir/ & mo/ important impetus to ! g5ius ( "o :o 0 n connect$ ) ! bus9ess 9 a practical way4 ,?is ev5t took place :5 ! ,rev4 ,william ,lee inv5t$ ! h& frame4 ,he 0 m>ri$ e>ly 9 life1 & 8 wife 0 oblig$1 on acc\nt ( ! sl5d] family f9ances1 to knit cont9u\sly at home4 ,/ruck ) ! monotony & toil involv$ 9 knitt+ ) ! h& p9s1 ,mr4 ,lee evolv$ a means ( knitt+ by ma*9]y & br\ght out ! h& /ock+-frame1 :i* to-day pres]ves its *ief features v mu* z ,lee inv5t$ !m4 ,:5 knitt+ by h&1 "o mu/ =m ea* loop sep>ately1 & loop foll[s loop labori\sly until ! wid? ( fabric has be5 work$4 ,lee contriv$ to make ! :ole r[ ( loops across ! wid? simultane\sly by arrang+ a ne$le = ea* loop & plac+ 9 connection ) ea* ne$le a s9k] & o!r app>atus = complet+ ! =mation ( ! loop4 ,fir/ ( all1 ! y>n is laid ov] ! ne$les1 :i* are arrang$ horizontally1 & ! s9k]s come d[n on ! y>n & cause x to =m p>tial loops betwe5 ! ne$les4 ,! old loops ( ! previ\s c\rse are n[ br\ght =w>d & ! new y>n is drawn ?r\gh !m 9 ! same way z is done on ! h& p9s4 ,?us ! new y>n ( "o c\rse is drawn ?r\gh ! loops ( ! prec$+ "o1 & s ! :ole fabric is built up4 ,?is frame ( ,lee's held its own 9 ! great c5t]s until "s ?irty ye>s ago4 ,lee's h& frame gave way to :at is t]m$ ! jack & s9k] rot>y frame1 :i* 0 l ! h& frame 9 its *ief features1 b ) ! advantage t all ! motions 7 br\ght ab\t by p[]4 ,! v>i\s op]ations 7 put "u ! control ( a set ( cams#bj & made to p]=m _! movem5ts 9 exactly ! same way z 9 ! case ( ! h& frame4 ,9 ! fir/ p[] ma*9e = knitt+1 ! ma*9e build] us$ ! cam me*anism1 & 9 exam9+ ! late/ ma*9es we f9d t he has p]si/$ 9 ?is c\rse ?r\gh\t4 ,! cam movem5t is *>act]iz$ by great smoo?ness ( work+ & abs5ce ( vibration1 :i* is v necess>y 9 a ma*9e ( ! delicate adju/m5t ( ! knitt+ frame4 ,x is usual to connect "s ( ! p>ts ) two ( ^! cams1 "o ( :i* controls ! up-&-d[n motion & ! o!r ! out-&-9 movem5t4 ,:5 ^! two cams "w 9 conjunction1 we obta9 all ! possible degrees ( h>monic motion4 ,f ! jack & s9k] frame ! next really important /ep 0 tak5 :5 ,william ,cotton br\ght out 8 fam\s ,cotton's pat5t frame4 ,9 8 ma*9e ! frame 0 9 a s5se turn$ on its back1 = ! p>ts1 su* z ! ne$les1 :i* _h be5 horizontal1 7 made v]tical & vice v]sa4 ,he also r$uc$ ! numb] ( ! mov+ p>ts & p]fect$ ! cam arrangem5t4 ,ano!r v important developm5t ( ! ma*9e 0 :5 x 0 built 9 a numb] ( divisions s z to "w a numb] ( articles side by side at "o "t4 ,at pres5t !re are knitt+ frames :i* c make twelve full-siz$ g>m5ts at "o & ! same "t4 ,ano!r important improvem5t 0 effect$ :5 ! fa%ion+ app>atus 0 suppli$ to ! ma*9e1 by means ( :i* ! g>m5ts c\ld be %ap$ accord+ to ! human =m by increas+ or decreas+ ! wid? z desir$4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,lace ,lace1 l porcela91 /a9$ glass1 & o!r arti/ic ?+s1 has always be5 an object ( int]e/ to all classes4 ,special patt]ns ( laces date f ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! *ur* & c\rt h always enc\rag$ its production4 ,:ile ! e>ly lace "w 0 simil> to weav+1 9 t ! patt]ns 7 /iff & geometrical1 sometimes ! patt]ns 7 cut out ( l951 b ) ! developm5t ( ! r5aissance ( art1 free fl[+ patt]ns & figures 7 introduc$ & work$ 94 ,! lace indu/ry fir/ took root 9 ,fl&]s & ,v5ice1 :]e x became an important bran* ( indu/ry4 ,active int]c\rse 0 ma9ta9$ betwe5 ! two c\ntries1 s t int5se rivalry exi/$4 ,france & ,engl& 7 n beh9d ,v5ice & ,fl&]s 9 mak+ lace4 ,! k+ ( ,france1 ,h5ry ,,iii1 enc\rag$ lace "w by appo9t+ a ,v5etian to be patt]n mak] = v>ieties ( l95 ne$lework & lace = 8 c\rt4 ,lat]1 (ficial aid & patronage 7 giv5 to ?is art by ,l\is ,v4 ,?r\gh ! influ5ce ( ^! two m5 ! dem& = lace 0 increas$ to su* an ext5t t x became v popul>4 ,"u ! impulse ( fa%ion & luxury1 lace has receiv$ ! /amp ( ! special /yle ( ea* c\ntry4 ,italy furni%es its ,po9t ( ,v5ice2 ,belgium its ,brussels & ,me*l92 ,france its ,val5ci5nes1 etc4 ,v little is kn[n ( ! e>ly lace manufactur]s ( ,holl&4 ,! laces ( ,holl& 7 ov]%ad[$ by ! ri*] products ( _! ,flemi% neighbors4 ,! ,dut*1 h[ev]1 _h "o advantage ov] o!r nations 9 _! ,ha>lem ?read1 once consid]$ ! be/ ?read 9 ! _w = lace4 ,9 ,switz]l&1 ! c5t] ( ! lace trade1 ! "w 0 c>ri$ on to su* a degree ( p]fection z to rival ! laces ( ,fl&]s1 n alone 9 beauty1 b also 9 quality4 ,attempts h be5 made at v>i\s times1 bo? dur+ ?is c5tury & ! la/1 to assi/ ! peasantry ( ,irel& by in/ruction 9 lace-mak+4 ,! f9e/ patt]ns ( old lace 7 procur$1 & ! ,iri% girls %[$ great skill 9 copy+ !m4 ,lat] a bett] /yle ( "w1 ne$lepo9t1 0 model$ aft] old ,v5etian lace--! exquisite productions = :i* ,am]icans pay fabul\s prices at ! pres5t day4 ,! lace manufactur]s ( ,europe exp]i5c$ a s]i\s set-back 9 #ahah :5 bobb9et 0 fir/ made 9 ,france4 ,fa%ion1 always fleet+1 adopt$ ! new mat]ial4 ,manufactur]s 7 =c$ to l[] prices1 b happily a new *annel = export 0 op5$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! ma*9e-made productions ( ! ,nott+ham looms1 z triumphs ( me*anical +5uity1 des]ve great praise4 ,! fir/ idea ( ! lace-mak+ ma*9e is attribut$ to a common factory h&1 ,hammond ,l9dy1 :o1 :5 exam9+ ! lace on 8 wife's cap1 conceiv$ a plan by :i* he c\ld copy x on 8 loom4 ,improvem5ts foll[$1 & 9 #ahaj a fairly good net 0 produc$4 ,p]haps ! mo/ delicate textile ma*9e kn[n1 9 its s5sitiv5ess to heat & cold1 is a lace ma*9e4 ,a ma*9e c be made to run 9 any climate1 provid$ x is s in/all$ z to be protect$ f ei!r extreme ( temp]ature4 ,! v>i\s sub/itutes = h&-made lace are legion2 = :at ! inv5tor _c a*ieve 9 "o way he c 9 ano!r4 ,!re rema9s h[ev] ! fact t ! productions ( ma*9]y c nev] possess ! *>m ( ! real h&-made "w4 ,ma*9e-made lace is /iff] ?an h&-made lace4 ,,footnotes3 #ai ,! te/+ app>atus may be obta9$ f any textile manufactur+ company1 su* z ,alfr$ ,sut]1 #dhg ,broadway1 ,new ,york4 #bj ,a cam is a device consi/+ ( a special %ap$ :eel atta*$ to a ma*9e to give a special k9d ( motion or movem5t4 ,,exp]im5ts ,exp]im5t #a--;,con/ruction ( ,clo? ,app>atus3 ,pick glass1 dissect+ p91#ba foot-rule4 ,mat]ials3 #d squ>e in*es ( burlap4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles4 ,see page #ed1 ,weav+2 page #a1 ,fib]s4 ,directions #a4 ,look at ! clo? "u ! pick glass & describe ! appe>ance & /ructure ( its int]lac+ ?reads1 call$ weave4 #b4 ,) a p9 sep>ate ! int]lac+ ?reads ( ! clo? :i* are call$ w>p & fill+4 ,w>p is compos$ ( y>n runn+ 9 ! direction ( ! l5g? ( ! clo?4 ,fill+ is compos$ ( y>n runn+ at "r angles to ! w>p4 a4 ,:at are ! int]lac+ ?reads ( clo? call$8 b4 ,( :at is w>p compos$ & 9 :at direction d ! w>p ?reads ext5d8 fill+8 #c4 ,notice ! appe>ance ( ! individual ?reads 7call$ y>n7 ( ! w>p & fill+4 ,te/ ! /r5g? ( ! y>n by try+ to break x4 #d4 ,untwi/ "o ( ! w>p ?reads & "o ( ! fill+ ?reads4 ,notice :e!r ! y>n becomes /rong] or weak] z x is untwi/$4 ,:at effect has twi/ on ! y>n8 #e4 ,aft] untwi/+ "o ( ! ?reads :at rema9s8 ,measure ! l5g? ( sev]al ( ^! ends call$ fib]s4 ,describe ! appe>ance ( ! fib] z to curl1 feel1 f95ess1 etc4 ,que/ions #a4 ,( :at does y>n consi/8 #b4 ,:at causes ! fib]s to cl+ toge!r8 #c4 ,:at is ! process call$ by :i* two sets ( ?reads int]lace8 #d4 ,:5 two sets ( ?reads int]lace or are wov5 :at is produc$8 ,exp]im5t #b--,pla9 or ,homespun ,weave ,app>atus3 ,h& loom1#bb two p5cils1 scissors4 ,mat]ial3 ,y>n ( two colors4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #eh4 ,directions #a4 ,make a w>p on ! h& loom ) gre5 y>n by hav+ p>allel ?reads runn+ ! longe/ way ( ! loom to ! not*es4 #b4 ,a h>ness is a framework on a loom us$ = rais+ c]ta9 w>p ?reads4 ,use a p5cil z a h>ness & raise ! #a/1 #c;d1 & #e? w>p ?reads4 ,a %$ w 9 ?is way be =m$ ?r\gh :i* ! %uttle c>ry+ ! fill+ ?read w pass4 ,use ! r$ y>n = fill+ & atta* x at "o end be=e pass+ x ?r\gh ! %$4 #c4 ,) a second p5cil to act z a second h>ness raise ! #b;d1 #d?1 & #f? w>p ?reads4 ,pass ! fill+ ?r\gh ! %$ ?us =m$4 #d4 ,repeat twice ,directions #b & #c4 #e4 ,tie all ends1 cut ! wov5 sample away f ! loom1 & m\nt 9 note-book4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at "p ( a loom is ! h>ness8 #b4 ,:at is meant by a %$8 #c4 ,:at c>ries ! fill+ ?read ?r\gh ! %$ on a loom8 #d4 ,:at is ! pr9ciple ( pla9 weav+8 #e4 ,"n "s fabrics produc$ by pla9 weav+8 ,see ,textiles1 page #eh4 ,exp]im5t #c--,twill ,weave ,app>atus3 ,h& loom1 f\r p5cils1 scissors4 ,mat]ials3 ,:ite cotton w>p1 color$ y>n fill+4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #eh4 ,directions #a4 ,on ! h& loom make a w>p by ?read+ f\r :ite w>p ?reads to a not* until !re are six sets ( w>p ?reads4 #b4 ,us+ a p5cil z a h>ness 7,see ,exp4 #b7 raise ! fir/ ?read ( ea* set ( w>p ?reads & pass ! fill+ ?read ?r\gh ! %$ ?us =m$4 #c4 ,) ano!r p5cil z a second h>ness raise ! second ?read ( ea* set ( w>p ?reads & pass ! fill+4 #d4 ,) a ?ird p5cil raise ! ?ird ?read ( ea* set ( w>p ?reads & pass ! fill+4 #e4 ,) /ill ano!r p5cil to act z a f\r? h>ness raise ! f\r? ?read ( ea* set & aga9 pass ! fill+4 #f4 ,repeat ! above directions 7#b to #e7 sev]al times4 ,notice t ! mov+ ( ! fill+ ?read1 "o w>p ?read to ! left1 ea* "t x is wov5 is caus+ a diagonal l9e or rib to =m1 call$ twill4 #g4 ,cut ! wov5 sample away f ! loom & m\nt4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y is ?is weave call$ a twill weave8 #b4 ,h[ is ! diagonal l9e or twill =m$8 #c4 ,:y w\ld ?is k9d ( weav+ be spok5 ( z #d-;h>ness weave8 #d4 ,:at popul> dress fabric is ( twill weave8 ,exp]im5t #d--;,comp>ison ( ,pla9 & ,twill ,weave ,app>atus3 ,pick glass1 dissect+ p91 foot-rule4 ,mat]ial3 #d sq4 94 ( burlap1 #d sq4 94 ( s]ge4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #eh1 #ei1 #fj4 ,directions #a4 ,exam9e ! burlap "u ! pick glass1 not+ ! /ructure & numb] ( ?reads to ! in* 9 ! w>p 7call$ ends7 & ! numb] ( ?reads to ! in* 9 ! fill+ 7call$ picks74 ,v]ify ) foot-rule4 #b4 ,repeat ! above1 us+ s]ge4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is meant by a numb] ( ends to ! in*8 a numb] ( picks to ! in*8 #b4 ,h[ _m ends to ! in* 9 ! burlap8 ,h[ _m picks to ! in*8 #c4 ,h[ _m ends to ! in* 9 ! s]ge8 ,h[ _m picks8 #d4 ,note sev]al diff]5ces betwe5 clo? produc$ by pla9 weav+ & clo? produc$ by twill weav+4 ,exp]im5t #e--,pile ,weave ,app>atus3 ,h& loom1 two p5cils1 scissors4 ,mat]ials3 ,:ite cotton w>p1 fill+ y>n ( two colors4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #fb4 ,directions #a4 ,?read ! loom two w>p ?reads to a not* until !re are #bj ends 7w>p ?reads74 #b4 ,use a p5cil z a h>ness4 ,raise ! #a/1 #c;d1 #e?1 #g?1 & #i? sets ( w>p ?reads4 #c4 ,fa/5 securely ! gre5 fill+ y>n at "o end & pass x ?r\gh ! %$ =m$ by c>ry+ out ,direction #b4 ,draw ! fill+ ?read tight & w9d once or twice ar\nd ! outside w>p end4 #d4 ,use a second p5cil z a h>ness & raise ! sets ( w>p ?reads t are n[ d[n1 =m+ a new %$4 #e4 ,fa/5 ! r$ fill+ y>n at "o end & pass x ?r\gh ! %$4 ,w9d once or twice ab\t ! outside w>p end4 #f4 ,raise ! r$ fill+ to =m a loop 9 ea* place :]e x 7! r$ fill+7 has pass$ ov] a w>p end4 #g4 ,=m a %$ by rais+ ! fir/ h>ness & pass ?r\gh ! gre5 fill+ ?read1 draw+ x tight to hold ! r$ fill+ above x 9 place4 ,w9d ab\t ! outside w>p end4 #h4 ,repeat ,directions #b-g sev]al times1 ea* "t rais+ ! r$ fill+ to =m loops & ea* "t draw+ ! gre5 fill+ tight to hold ! r$ 9 place4 #i4 ,cut ) scissors ! loops =m$ by rais+ ! r$ fill+4 #aj4 ,z well z y c ) scissors1 %e> ! pile 7! s(t1 ?ick cov]+ on ! face7 to make a fairly ev5 surface4 #aa4 ,cut ! sample away f ! loom & m\nt4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at are "s v>ieties ( clo? t are wov5 ) a pile surface8 #b4 ,sometimes ! loops ( ! pile are cut & sometimes left z loops4 ,:at fabrics are examples ( cut pile8 uncut pile8 #c4 ,:at is meant by ! pile ( velvet or c>pet8 ,exp]im5t #f--,o!r ,classes ( ,weave ,app>atus3 ,pick glass1 dissect+ ne$le4 ,mat]ials3 ,samples ( sat91 voile1 lace curta9+1 d\ble clo?1 c>pet+4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #eh-fd4 ,sat9 ,weave #a4 ,exam9e ! sample ( sat9 "u ! pick glass4 ,notice t ! w>p & fill+ int]lace 9 su* a way t !re is no trace ( ! diagonal on ! face ( ! clo?4 a4 ,is sat9 ( a close or loose weave8 b4 ,:at c y say ( ! surface ( sat98 c4 ,:at effect has ?is smoo? surface on light8 d4 ,?is is call$ a sat9 weave4 ,:y8 e4 ,:at is ! mo/ ext5sive use ( ! sat9 weave8 7,see ,textiles1 page #a47 ,,note4--,sometimes fabrics ( o!r weaves w h a sat9 /ripe4 ,gauze ,weave #b4 ,exam9e ! sample ( voile "u ! pick glass4 ,?is is a type ( :at is kn[n z gauze weave4 a4 ,:at is ! *ief *>act]i/ic ( ! gauze weave8 b4 ,"n sev]al gauze fabrics4 ,lappet ,weave #c4 ,exam9e a piece ( lace curta9+ "u ! pick glass4 a4 ,if ! fancy figures 7 n pres5t1 ( :at weave w\ld ?is sample be8 ,simple figures are /it*$ into pla9ly wov5 or gauze fabrics by ma*9]y to imitate embroid]y4 ,?is /yle ( weave is kn[n z lappet weave4 b4 ,on fabrics ( :at two weaves is lappet weav+ us$8 c4 ,:at is lappet weav+8 ,jacqu>d ,weave #d4 ,exam9e a piece ( c>pet4 ,notice ! elaborate designs or patt]ns & ! numb] ( colors us$4 ,:5 ! figures are elaborate !y _c be /it*$ 9 by simple lappet weav+4 ,a special atta*m5t call$ ! ,jacqu>d app>atus is plac$ on top ( ! loom4 ,?is app>atus controls ! w>p ?reads s t a great _m %$s may be =m$ & elaborate figures wov5 into fabrics4 ,?is is call$ ,jacqu>d weav+4 a4 ,:at mu/ be add$ to a loom = ,jacqu>d weav+8 b4 ,:at is ! use ( ! ,jacqu>d app>atus8 c4 ,:5 is ! ,jacqu>d weave us$ in/ead ( lappet weave8 #e4 ,read ,textiles1 page #fa4 ,d\ble ,clo? ,weave #f4 ,exam9e ! sample ( d\ble clo?4 ,notice t !re are two s+le clo?s4 ,!y are comb9$ into "o by "h & !re lac+ ! w>p & fill+ ( "o clo? into ! w>p & fill+ ( ! o!r4 ,9 ?is way !y are fa/5$ toge!r securely4 a4 ,:at color is ! sample on "o side8 ! o!r8 b4 ,( :at is d\ble clo? compos$8 c4 ,h[ are ! s+le clo?s comb9$ into "o8 d4 ,read ,textiles1 page #fb4 ,:at are "s ( ! uses ( d\ble clo?8 ,classes ( ,weave #g4 ,h[ _m classes ( weave h be5 /udi$8 #h4 ,"n ! classes ( weave4 #i4 ,"n a fabric to illu/rate ea* weave4 ,exp]im5t #g--;,fib]s ,app>atus3 ,pick glass1 dissect+ ne$le4 ,mat]ials3 ,samples ( broadclo?1 mohair1 silk1 cotton clo?1 l954 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #a2 #ig1 ,mohair2 #bjc1 ,silk2 #aje1 ,cotton2 #aic1 ,l952 #aii1 ,hemp2 #bja1 ,jute2 #bcb1 ,ramie2 #bcc1 ,p9eapple4 ,directions #a4 ,read ,textiles1 page #a1 p>agraph #a4 ,:at are textiles8 #b4 ,clo? is compos$ ( y>n4 ,y>n 9 its turn is compos$ ( _m small ends call$ fib]s4 #c4 ,look at ! sample ( broadclo?4 ,if y did n "k ?is to be broadclo? y w\ld speak ( x z wool5 goods4 ,deta* f ! sample a fill+ ?read & sep>ate x into fib]s4 ,^! are wool5 fib]s4 #d4 ,exam9e ! sample ( mohair & sep>ate a fill+ ?read into fib]s4 ,?is takes ! "n mohair f ! fib]s :i* compose x4 ,mohair is obta9$ f ! ,angora goat4 #e4 ,exam9e a sample ( silk1 also a deta*$ fill+ ?read4 ,! silk fib] consi/s ( a ?read spun by ! silk worm4 #f4 ,wool1 mohair1 & silk fib]s are obta9$ f ! animals1 ! %eep1 goat1 & silk worm1 h5ce !y are call$ animal fib]s4 #g4 ,deta* f ! sample ( cotton clo? a fill+ ?read & sep>ate x into fib]s4 ,^! are cotton fib]s & are obta9$ f ! cotton plant4 #h4 ,exam9e ! sample ( l951 a fill+ ?read & its fib]s4 ,l95 is compos$ ( fib]s obta9$ f ! flax plant4 #i4 ,cotton & l95 fib]s are obta9$ f plants1 & are call$ vegetable fib]s4 ,!re are o!r vegetable fib]s su* z jute1 hemp1 ramie1 p9eapple1 etc41 b cotton & l95 are ! mo/ important4 #aj4 ,"n ! mo/ valuable fib]s = textile use4 ,que/ions #a4 ,( :at is clo? compos$8 #b4 ,( :at does y>n consi/8 #c4 ,h[ are ! fib]s made to jo9 9 "o long ?read8 7,see ,exp]im5t #a47 #d4 ,( :at fib]s are wool5 & wor/$ goods compos$8 #e4 ,( :at animal is wool ! cov]+8 #f4 ,( :at fib]s is mohair compos$8 #g4 ,f :at animal is mohair obta9$8 #h4 ,( :at does ! silk fib] consi/8 #i4 ,:at are ! animal fib]s8 #aj4 ,:y are !y call$ animal fib]s8 #aa4 ,( :at fib]s is cotton clo? compos$8 #ab4 ,f :at plant are cotton fib]s obta9$8 #ac4 ,f :at plant is ! l95 fib] obta9$8 #ad4 ,:at are ! mo/ important vegetable fib]s8 #ae4 ,"n f\r o!r vegetable fib]s4 #af4 ,:y are ^! fib]s call$ vegetable fib]s8 ,exp]im5t #h--,wool ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,pick glass1 microscope1 #b p9e cones1 foot-rule4 ,mat]ials3 ,raw wool1 wool5 y>n4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 *apt] i4 ,directions #a4 ,sep>ate a /r& ( wool5 y>n into fib]s4 ,exam9e bo? ^! fib]s & fib]s pull$ f ! raw wool4 ,w\ld y describe ^! fib]s z co>se or f9e8 #b4 ,h[ d ! fib]s feel to t\*8 #c4 ,te/ ! /r5g? ( ! wool fib]s by try+ to break !m4 #d4 ,measure ! l5g? ( sev]al fib]s4 #e4 ,:y 0 x difficult to /raight5 ! fib]s to measure !m8 #f4 ,ext5d ! fib] to its full l5g?1 !n release4 ,h[ does ?is prove ! fib] to be ela/ic8 #g4 ,exam9e ! fib]s "u ! microscope4 ,describe4 ,notice t ! wool fib] is cyl9drical 9 %ape4 ,notice t x is cov]$ ) scales :i* ov]lap mu* z d ! tiles ( a ro( or ! sp9es ( a p9e cone4 #h4 ,hold "o p9e cone ) ! sp9es po9t+ upw>d4 ,) ! sp9es ( ! o!r po9t+ d[nw>d press ! second cone d[n on ! fir/4 ,:at happ5s8 ,j s ! scales or po9ts ( ! wool fib]s hook into "o ano!r & int]lock4 ,^! scales or s]rations give to ! wool fib] its *ief *>act]i/ic :i* is ! p[] ( int]lock+ kn[n z felt+ or %r9k+4 #i4 ,see ,textiles1 page #b1 ! draw+ ( a magnifi$ wool fib]4 ,make a draw+ ( a wool fib]4 #aj4 ,exam9e "u ! microscope a hair f y\r head4 ,wool is only a v>iety ( hair4 ,notice t ! scales on ! hair lie close to ! /em & d n project z 9 ! wool5 fib]1 h5ce hair fib]s _c int]lock z wool fib]s d4 ,! scales ly+ close to ! hair give a smoo? surface to ! fib] & make lu/] a *>act]i/ic4 #aa4 ,comp>e ! wool fib] ) hair1 not+ two diff]5ces4 ,que/ions #a4 ,) :at is ! wool fib] cov]$8 #b4 ,( :at advantage are ^! scales or po9ts8 #c4 ,:at is ! *ief *>act]i/ic ( wool8 #d4 ,:at is meant by ! %r9k+ or felt+ p[]8 #e4 ,"n five *>act]i/ics ( ! wool fib]4 ,exp]im5t #i--,mohair ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,microscope1 foot-rule4 ,mat]ials3 ,wool fib]s1 mohair fib]s1 sample ( mohair brilliant9e4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #a1 #cg1 #ig4 ,directions #a4 ,pull a mohair fib] f ! fleece4 ,hold x up to ! light4 ,describe ! fib] z y see x4 #b4 ,hold a mohair fib] & a wool fib] side by side to ! light4 ,note ! diff]5ces4 #c4 ,measure sev]al mohair fib]s4 #d4 ,exam9e ! mohair fib] "u ! microscope4 ,! fib] is cov]$ ) scales1 b !y lie close to ! fib] & d n project 9 po9ts z d ! scales on ! wool fib]1 h5ce mohair w n felt to any degree4 #e4 ,! ,angora goat ( ,asia ,m9or furni%es ! mohair4 ,?is goat is be+ rais$ 9 ! we/]n /ates ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates n[4 #f4 ,deta* f ! sample ( mohair brilliant9e a w>p ?read2 a fill+ ?read4 ,:i* is mohair8 ,:i* is cotton8 #g4 ,:at ^w w\ld describe ! feel ( mohair brilliant9e8 ! appe>ance8 #h4 ,:at are ! *>act]i/ics ( ! mohair fib]8 #i4 ,:at are ! uses ( mohair8 ,mohair is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( plu%es1 dress fabrics1 & imitation furs4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y w mohair n felt z wool does8 #b4 ,! scales ly+ close to ! /em w h :at effect on ! surface ( ! fib]8 #c4 ,:at effect w a smoo? surface h on light8 #d4 ,:at *>act]i/ic is giv5 to mohair f ! fact t ! smoo? surface reflects light8 #e4 ,f :at animal is mohair obta9$ 9 greate/ quantity8 #f4 ,:]e is mohair be+ gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates8 ,exp]im5t #aj--;,cotton ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,microscope1 foot-rule4 ,mat]ials3 ,tuft ( cotton fib]s1 cotton ball1 se$s4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 *apt] ix1 page #aje4 ,directions #a4 ,hold a tuft ( cotton fib]s tightly betwe5 ! f+]s & ?umb ( ea* h& & pull ap>t ) a j]k4 ,:at is y\r judgm5t ( ! /r5g? ( ! /aple 7fib]78 #b4 ,loos5 g5tly ! fib]s ( "o ( ! tufts y h pull$ ap>t4 ,:at is ! feel ( cotton8 ! appe>ance z y hold x to ! light8 #c4 ,deta* sev]al fib]s "o by "o4 ,h[ does ! l5g? comp>e ) t ( ! wool & mohair8 ,measure & record ! l5g? ( ?ree fib]s4 #d4 ,h[ d cotton fib]s comp>e 9 f95ess ) wool fib]s8 #e4 ,comp>e ! ela/icity ( cotton ) t ( wool4 #f4 ,exam9e ! cotton fib]s "u ! microscope4 ,obs]ve t ! enl>g$ fib] looks l a twi/$ ribbon4 ,:5 ! fib] 0 gr[+ x 0 cyl9drical 9 %ape4 ,:5 ripe ! plant drew back its life-giv+ fluid f ! fib] & x collaps$ & twi/$ l a corkscrew4 ,! twi/ is peculi> to ! cotton1 be+ pres5t 9 no o!r fib]4 ,! twi/ makes ! cotton fib] suitable = sp9n+1 help+ to hold ! %ort fib]s toge!r4 #g4 ,read ( ! cotton plant f ,textiles1 *apt] ix4 #h4 ,! f\r *ief cotton produc+ c\ntries are ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 ,egypt1 ,india1 ,brazil4 #i4 ,!re are sev]al classifications ( cotton4 ,! mo/ common are ,sea ,isl& 79 ! lead72 ,egyptian 7a close second72 ,upl&s 7t ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 s\!rn "p72 & ,p]uvian4 #aj4 ,upl&s is ! mo/ common cotton ( our ,s\?4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at *>act]i/ic causes ! cotton fib] to be easily recogniz$ "u ! microscope8 #b4 ,:y does ! twi/ r5d] ! cotton fib] suitable = sp9n+8 #c4 ,:at are ! *>act]i/ics ( ! cotton fib]8 #d4 ,:y is cotton kn[n z a vegetable fib]8 #e4 ,"n ! *ief cotton produc+ c\ntries4 #f4 ,:at are ! mo/ common classifications ( cotton8 #g4 ,:at is ! f9e/ gr[? ( cotton8 7,sea ,isl& comm&s at ! pres5t "t #a4jj a lb41 :ile ,middl+ ,upl&s br+s #ae c5ts47 #h4 ,:]e is cotton kn[n z ,upl& ,cotton gr[n8 ,exp]im5t #aa--,silk ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,tripod1 alcohol lamp1 small pan ( wat]1 lead p5cil4 ,mat]ial3 ,silk cocoon4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 *apt] xvii1 page #bjc4 ,directions #a4 ,place ! cocoon 9 a small pan ( wat]4 ,apply heat to ! pan until ! wat] boils4 ,! cocoon is plac$ 9 hot wat] to s(t5 ! glue :i* holds ! fib]s toge!r4 #b4 ,remove ! outside loose fib]s :i* _c be reel$4 ,?is tangl$ silk on ! outside ( ! cocoon is call$ floss4 #c4 ,bru% ! f+] ov] ! cocoon to f9d ! loose ends4 ,unw9d c>efully until y f9d a cont9u\s end4 ,w9d or reel ! silk fib] ov] a lead p5cil4 #d4 ,! silk fib] is ! mo/ beautiful & p]fect ( all fib]s4 #e4 ,hold ! cocoon to ! light z y reel4 ,h[ does ! silk fib] comp>e 9 f95ess ) ! wool & cotton fib]s8 #f4 ,! silk fib] is f #ajjj to #djjj feet long4 ,unlike ! o!r fib]s ! silk fib] is already a ?read4 #g4 ,h[ does light effect ! silk fib]8 ,:5 ! gum is ?or\ghly wa%$ (f ! silk takes on its lu/] :i* is its *ief *>act]i/ic4 #h4 ,break ! fib] aft] y h reel$ a small quantity4 ,notice h[ ! fib] spr+s back4 ,ext5d & release aga94 ,:at *>act]i/ic does ?is illu/rate8 #i4 ,exam9e ! silk fib] "u ! microscope4 ,notice t x is r\nd & smoo? & resembles a glass rod4 ,x %[s :at appe> to be two fib]s unit$ by ! gum secret$ at ! same "t t ! fib] 0 =m$4 ,describe ! silk fib] z x appe>s "u ! microscope4 #aj4 ,silk is tak5 f ! reel & twi/$ into a ske9 ( raw silk & ?us export$4 #aa4 ,! manufacture 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates beg9s ) raw silk4 ,x is h&l$ "h fir/ by ! ?r[/] :o w9ds x f ! ske9 & makes diff]5t v>ieties ( ?read4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y is ! silk cocoon fir/ plac$ 9 hot wat]8 #b4 ,:at is kn[n z floss8 #c4 ,:at is meant by silk reel+8 #d4 ,:at c y say ( ! l5g? ( ! silk fib]8 #e4 ,9 :at way does ! silk fib] diff] f ! o!r fib]s8 #f4 ,:at is ! *ief *>act]i/ic ( ! silk fib]8 #g4 ,:at are o!r *>act]i/ics ( ! silk fib]8 #h4 ,9 :at =m is silk export$8 #i4 ,9 :at c\ntries is mo/ ( ! raw silk produc$8 7,see ,textiles1 page #bjf47 #aj4 ,) :at does ! silk manufacture 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates beg98 #aa4 ,:o is ! ?r[/] & :at is 8 "w8 ,exp]im5t #ab--,l95 ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,microscope4 ,mat]ial3 ,flax fib]s4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 *apt] xv1 page #aic4 ,directions #a4 ,! l95 fib] is obta9$ f ! flax plant4 ,c]ta9 fib]s1 su* z flax1 jute1 & ramie1 are obta9$ f ! /em ( ! plant1 h5ce are kn[n z ba/ fib]s1 & flax is ! mo/ important ba/ fib]4 #b4 ,x is difficult to sep>ate ! flax or l95 fib] f ! woody "p ( ! /em4 ,! process is call$ rett+1 :i* is really rott+ by soak+ ! /em 9 wat]4 #c4 ,be=e ! fib]s are entirely free f ! woody "p ( ! plant !y und]go ! processes ( beat+1 break+1 scut*+1 hackl+1 etc4 #d4 ,read ! acc\nt ( ea* process4 ,see ,textiles1 pages #aid1 #aie4 #e4 ,measure & record ! l5g? ( two l95 fib]s4 #f4 ,te/ ! /r5g? by try+ to break ! fib]4 #g4 ,te/ = ela/icity4 #h4 ,:at is ! appe>ance ( ! l95 fib] :5 held to ! light8 #i4 ,:at is ! color ( ! fib]8 ,:at is ! process call$ by :i* l95 is :it5$8 7,blea*+47 #aj4 ,exam9e ! flax fib]s "u ! microscope4 ,obs]ve t ! fib]s look l long cyl9drical tubes4 ,describe ! appe>ance ( l95 fib]s "u ! microscope4 #aa4 ,! be/ flax is gr[n 9 ,belgium & ,irel&4 ,que/ions #a4 ,f :at "p ( ! plant are ba/ fib]s obta9$8 #b4 ,"n "s ba/ fib]s4 #c4 ,:at is ! mo/ important ba/ fib]8 #d4 ,:at is rett+8 #e4 ,= :at purpose is l95 subject$ to rett+8 #f4 ,?r\gh :at five processes does ! flax fib] pass be=e x is free8 #g4 ,:]e is ! be/ flax gr[n8 ,exp]im5t #ac--;,c>d+ ,app>atus3 ,a pair ( h& c>ds4 ,mat]ial3 ,small quantity ( sc\r$ wool4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #ci & #ej4 ,directions #a4 ,exam9e ! h& c>ds4 ,notice t !re is a f\ndation ( sev]al lay]s ( lea!r4 ,notice t ?is f\ndation is cov]$ ) /aples ( /eel wire4 ,notice t ! /aples are %ap$ l ! lett] ,u ) ! po9ts turn$ "o way4 ,! cov]+ ( ! h& c>ds is call$ c>d clo?+4 #b4 ,hold "o h& c>d 9 ! left h&1 face up1 wires po9t+ to ! left4 ,spread ! wool ov] ! po9t$ wires ( ?is c>d4 #c4 ,hold ! o!r c>d 9 ! "r h&1 face d[n1 ) ! wires po9t+ to ! "r4 ,br+ ! po9t$ wires ( ?is c>d d[n on ! wool & drag x lightly ?r\gh ! wires ( ! o!r c>d4 ,repeat sev]al times4 #d4 ,y h be5 c>d+ wool4 ,! %>p po9ts h be5 te>+ ! wool ap>t or dis5tangl+ ! fib]s4 ,c>d+ bru%es ! fib]s out smoo? & makes !m some:at p>allel4 ,x =ms !m into a ?9 %eet4 #e4 ,! wool mu/ be c>d$ _m times be=e x is suffici5tly dis5tangl$ = draw+ & sp9n+4 ,9 ord] to c>d aga9 ! h& c>d mu/ be /ripp$ ( ! wool s t x may be dragg$ aga9 ?r\gh ! /aples4 #f4 ,hold ! h& c>d1 :i* is 9 y\r "r h&1 erect4 ,notice t ! wires po9t d[nw>d4 ,move ! o!r h& d[nw>d ov] ! wires4 ,notice t ! surface is smoo?4 ,! po9ts d n prick z !y w if y try to bru% ! h& upw>ds ov] ! wires4 #g4 ,hold ! c>d 9 ! left h& 9 a simil> position4 ,raise & br+ ! %>p wires ( ?is c>d d[n on ! smoo? surface ( ! o!r c>d & /rip x ( its wool4 #h4 ,c>d aga91 !n /rip aga94 ,repeat sev]al times until ! fib]s are ?or\ghly dis5tangl$4 #i4 ,?is c>d+ & /ripp+1 once done by h&1 is n[ done 9 ! mill by a p[] ma*9e call$ ! c>d4 7,see picture1 ,textiles1 page #ch47 ,notice t in/ead ( c>ds ?is ma*9e consi/s ( roll]s or cyl9d]s4 ,"s are c>d+ cyl9d]s & "s are /ripp+ cyl9d]s4 ,! pr9ciple is ! same z t ( ! h& c>ds4 ,! wool is c>d$ & /ripp$ aga9 & aga9 & is f9ally deliv]$ 9 a s(t1 fluffy rope call$ a sliv] ready = draw+ & sp9n+4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is ! cov]+ ( ! h& c>d call$8 #b4 ,describe c>d clo?+4 #c4 ,:at does c>d+ d to ! wool8 #d4 ,:5 ! %>p wires ( "o cyl9d] meet ! %>p po9t$ wires ( ano!r cyl9d] :at is ! action on ! wool8 #e4 ,if ! %>p po9ts ( "o cyl9d] meet ! smoo? surface ( ano!r cyl9d] :at happ5s to ! wool on t cyl9d]8 #f4 ,9 :at =m does ! wool f9ally leave ! ma*9e8 ,:at "n is giv5 to ?is fluffy rope8 #g4 ,h[ 0 c>d+ done 9 ! e>ly days8 ,h[ is x done n[8 #h4 ,9 :at way is ! pr9ciple ( ! h& c>ds ! same z t ( ! c>d ( ! mill8 ,exp]im5t #ad--;,draw+ & ,sp9n+ ,app>atus3 ,foot-rule1 ela/ic b&4 ,mat]ial3 ,small quantity ( sc\r$ wool4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #d1 #dd1 #acd2 ,sections3 ,sp9n+3 ,mule ,sp9n+4 ,directions #a4 ,obs]ve ! mass ( wool fib]s4 ,! wool 0 clipp$ f ! %eep1 wa%$1 & oil$ to make x smoo? & pliable4 #b4 ,) ! f+]s g5tly op5 up or loos5 ! mass ( wool fib]s4 ,9 ! mill ?is is done by a ma*9e call$ ! c>d4 7,see picture1 ,textiles1 page #ch47 ,& ! process itself is call$ c>d+4 #c4 ,g5tly draw out ! mass ( fib]s until y h drawn x into "o long /r&4 #d4 ,draw x aga9 & aga9 until to draw x w\ld cause x to break4 #e4 ,?is process 9 ! mill is kn[n z draw+4 ,! wool passes ?r\gh ma*9e aft] ma*9e1 :i* gradually r$uces ! ?ickness ( ! /r&4 #f4 ,y h n[ a /r& call$ rov+1 b n a ?read ) :i* y c\ld weave4 ,:at is call$ ! /r&8 ,:y c\ld y n weave ) x z x is8 ,if y pull$ ! rov+ ap>t x w\ld sep>ate into a numb] ( small ends4 ,:at "n is giv5 to ^! ends8 #g4 ,x is necess>y to hold ^! fib]s toge!r 9 a ?read4 ,hold ! rov+ 9 ! left h& & ) ! "r h& draw ! fib]s out sev]al in*es4 ,z y draw1 twi/ ! rov+ betwe5 ! f+]s & ?umb4 ,! twi/+ is call$ sp9n+4 #h4 ,:5 y h twi/$ suffici5t y>n to atta* to ! end ( a foot-rule1 d s4 ,give a :irl to ! rul]1 :i* is tak+ ! place ( ! old-"t sp9dle1 & let x drop4 ,cont9ue to :irl ! rul] & notice t z x revolves ! y>n is twi/+4 ,:5 well twi/$1 w9d ! y>n on ! rul]4 ,!re 0 a hook on ! old-"t sp9dle4 ,in/ead ( ! hook1 hold ! w\nd y>n 9 place by an ela/ic b&4 ,draw out sev]al in*es aga9 & repeat4 #i4 ,) ! sp9dle a di/aff 0 us$4 ,x held ! rov+ :i* y n[ hold 9 y\r left h&4 7,see picture ( di/aff & sp9dle47 #aj4 ,def9e sp9n+2 see ,textiles1 page #d1 footnote4 ,! e>ly use ( ! sp9dle 0 ! same z its use ( to-day4 ,9 :at two ways is ! sp9dle ( use8 #aa4 ,! improvem5t on ! di/aff & sp9dle 0 ! sp9n+ :eel4 ,n[ ! sp9n+ frame 9 ! mill has replac$ bo?4 ,que/ions #a4 ,aft] %e>+1 ?r\gh :at two processes does wool pass8 #b4 ,:y is x necess>y to oil wool8 #c4 ,:at is ! "w ( ! c>d8 #d4 ,expla9 ! process call$ draw+4 ,:y is x necess>y to repeat ! op]ation sev]al times8 #e4 ,:at foll[$ ! di/aff & sp9dle 9 ! developm5t ( sp9n+8 #f4 ,on :at is ! sp9n+ done n[ 9 ! mill8 ,see ,textiles1 picture1 pages #ace1 #acg4 ,exp]im5t #ae--;,gill+ & ,comb+ ,app>atus3 ,co>se comb1 f9e comb4 ,mat]ial3 ,small quantity ( sc\r$ wool4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #ci-dd4 ,directions #a4 ,op5 up ! wool a little ) ! f+]s4 ,d ?is 9 place ( c>d+1 z y ne$ b a small quantity4 #b4 ,y comb y\r hair to make ! hairs lie p>allel1 side by side1 9 place4 ,combs are us$ on wool = j ! same purpose1 b ! fir/ process ( comb+ is n kn[n z su*4 ,x is call$ gill+1 & ! combs !mselves are call$ fall]s4 ,! ma*9es are kn[n z gill boxes4 ,see ,textiles1 page #dc4 #c4 ,hold ! c>d$ wool 9 ! left h& 9 ! middle ( ! /r&4 ,) ! co>se comb 9 ! "r h&1 comb & ?us /raight5 ! fib]s fir/ at "o end !n at ! o!r4 ,?is is gill+4 ,! pr9ciple ( gill+ is to comb ! fib]s m & m ne>ly p>allel & to draw !m out into m ev5 /r&s4 #d4 ,! co>se comb causes ! hairs to lie p>allel4 ,a f9e comb w fur!r /raight5 ! hairs1 b x w also remove ! sn>l$1 tangl$1 %ort hairs4 ,aga9 wool is to be treat$ l hair4 ,hold ! /r& 9 ! middle z be=e4 ,comb ea* end ) ! f9e comb4 ,notice t ! f9e comb is remov+ ! %ort fib]s & leav+ ! long fib]s betwe5 ! f+]s4 ,?is is ! second process ( comb+1 & is call$ comb+4 #e4 ,! long fib]s are call$ tops & ! %ort fib]s are kn[n z noils4#bc ,comb+ is ! process :i* sep>ates ! long fib]s kn[n z tops f ! %ort fib]s kn[n z noils4 #f4 ,! comb+ ma*9e 9 ! mill is a v complicat$ "o4 ,see picture1 ,textiles1 page #da4 #g4 ,gill & comb sev]al /r&s ( wool4 #h4 ,top is too delicate1 z x comes f ! comb1 to be h&l$4 ,! next process is to comb9e sev]al /r&s into "o4 ,comb9e ! sev]al /r&s y h gill$ & comb$4 ,comb ?is "o end ) ! co>se comb aga9 to be sure t ! fib]s are p]fectly p>allel4 #i4 ,y gill$1 comb$1 & gill$ aga94 ,s x is 9 ! mill4 ,aft] comb+1 ! wool is gill$ aga9 by ma*9es kn[n z f9i%] gill boxes1 & w\nd into a ball call$ a top4 #aj4 ,a top diff]s f top4 ,top is ! /r& ( long fib]s :i* comes f ! comb4 ,a top is ! ball ( comb$ wool z x comes f ! f9i%] gill boxes4 ,x weighs f #g to #ab lbs4 & conta9s #bjj to #bej yds4 #aa4 ,! wool is n[ ready = ! next processes--^? ( draw+ & sp9n+4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y is ! hair comb$8 ,:y is wool comb$8 #b4 ,:at is ! fir/ process ( comb+ call$8 ,:at "n is giv5 to ! combs us$ 9 gill+8 ,:at are ! ma*9es call$8 #c4 ,:at is ! pr9ciple ( gill+8 #d4 ,h[ does a f9e comb act on ! hair8 #e4 ,:5 y comb$ ! wool ) ! f9e comb :at happ5$8 #f4 ,:at are ! long fib]s call$8 ! %ort8 ,( :i* are !re m8 #g4 ,:at is ! second process ( comb+ call$8 #h4 ,:y is x necess>y to comb9e sev]al /r&s ( top into "o end8 #i4 ,:y is x necess>y to gill aga9 aft] comb+8 #aj4 ,9 :at =m does ! wool f9ally leave ! f9i%] gill boxes8 #aa4 ,:at is a top8 #ab4 ,:at two processes foll[ c>d+8 #ac4 ,= :at two processes is wool n[ ready8 ,exp]im5t #af--,raw ,wool to ,y>n ,app>atus3 ,h& c>ds1 co>se & f9e combs1 p5cil4 ,mat]ial3 ,sc\r$ wool4 ,ref]5ce3 ,! prec$+ exp]im5ts4 ,directions #a4 ,?is wool has already be5 subject$ to ! ?ree op]ations ( %e>+1 sc\r+1 & oil+4 #b4 ,c>d ! wool4 ,:at does c>d+ d to ! wool8 #c4 ,/rip ! c>ds4 ,rub ! %eet ( fib]s betwe5 ! palms ( ! h&s into ! =m ( a /r&4 ,x is 9 ?is =m t x leaves ! c>d ( ! mill1 & x is kn[n z a sliv] ( wool4 #d4 ,pull ab\t ?ree in*es ( wool f ! sliv] & p]=m ^u x ! op]ation ( gill+ by comb+ x ) ! co>se comb4 #e4 ,foll[ ! gill+ by ! op]ation ( comb+1 :i* y w d by comb+ aga91 ?is "t ) a f9e comb4 #f4 ,pull ab\t ?ree in*es aga9 f ! sliv]4 ,cont9ue to gill & comb by section until ! entire sliv] has be5 gill$ & comb$4 #g4 ,comb9e sev]al /r&s into "o & subject ! "o /r& to a second process ( gill+ to make sure t all fib]s are side by side4 #h4 ,g5tly draw out ?is /r& ( comb$ long fib]s kn[n z top4 ,z y draw1 sp94 ,z y sp91 w9d on a lead p5cil4 ,! f95ess ( ! y>n dep5ds on ! am\nt ( draw+ & twi/+4 #i4 ,:at is ! s\rce ( wool8 ,y began ) wool1 cov]+ ( ! %eep's body1 & aft] subject+ x to a s]ies ( op]ations y h conv]t$ x into y>n :i* is ready = weav+4 #aj4 ,"n ! op]ations 9 ord]1 ?r\gh :i* raw wool passes be=e x f9ally becomes y>n4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at are ! fir/ ?ree processes ?r\gh :i* wool passes8 ,:at is %e>+8 sc\r+8 #b4 ,:y is wool oil$8 #c4 ,:at is meant by a sliv] ( wool8 #d4 ,:at does gill+ d to ! wool8 #e4 ,:at does comb+ d to ! wool8 #f4 ,:y is !re ano!r op]ation ( gill+ aft] comb+8 #g4 ,:at is meant by draw+8 sp9n+8 #h4 ,:at "n is giv5 to ! wool w\nd on ! p5cil8 #i4 ,on :at does ! f95ess ( ! y>n dep5d8 ,exp]im5t #ag--;,diff]5ce betwe5 ,wool5 & ,wor/$ ,y>n ,app>atus3 ,pick glass4 ,mat]ials3 ,sample ( wool5 clo? & wor/$ clo?4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #ej & #ea4 ,directions ,take a piece ( wor/$ fabric & sep>ate a piece ( y>n f ei!r ! w>p or fill+4 ,d ! same ) a piece ( wool5 fabric4 ,notice ! appe>ance ( ea* piece ( y>n4 ,:i* is smoo!r8 ,:at effect w\ld friction h on ! wor/$ y>n8 ! wool5 y>n8 ,:i* sample ( y>n w\ld %9e & reflect ! light8 ,exp]im5t #ah--;,burl+ & ,m5d+ ,app>atus3 ,*alk1 scissors1 dissect+ p91 ne$le1 pick glass4 ,mat]ial3 #d squ>e in*es ( clo? f ! loom4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #ga4 ,directions #a4 ,clo? f ! loom is f> f be+ a f9i%$ product4 ,x mu/ pass ?r\gh sev]al processes be=e x is f9i%$4 ,^! processes are kn[n z f9i%+4 #b4 ,:at is ! feel ( ?is clo?8 #c4 ,hold ! clo? to ! light & look ?r\gh x4 ,note ! imp]fections & *alk !m4 ,:at defects did y notice8 #d4 ,place ! clo? on ! desk1 face d[n4 ,rub ! f+]s ov] ! back ( ! clo?4 ,:5 ! f+]s locate a knot1 raise x ) ! dissect+ ne$le to be cut (f lat]4 #e4 ,rev]se ! clo?4 ,rub ! f+]s ov] ! face4 ,:5 a knot is f\nd1 =ce x ?r\gh to ! back ) ! dissect+ ne$le4 ,all ! knots are on "o side n[4 ,clip !m (f ) ! scissors4 ,?is is call$ burl+ & is ! fir/ process ( f9i%+4 #f4 ,hold ! clo? to ! light4 ,notice :]e an entire fill+ ?read is miss+4 ,?is is kn[n z a full miss pick4 ,:5 "p ( a fill+ ?read is miss+ x is spok5 ( z a half miss pick4 ,9 g5]al :at does a miss pick mean8 #g4 ,unravel a fill+ ?read f ! l[] edge ( ! clo?4 ,) x ?read a ne$le & replace ! miss+ pick4 ,foll[ ! weave closely1 us+ a pick glass z an aid4 ,y are p]=m+ ! second process ( f9i%+1 t ( m5d+4 #h4 ,if a w>p end is miss+ replace x4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is meant by f9i%+8 #b4 ,:at is ! fir/ process ( f9i%+8 ,:at is burl+8 #c4 ,:at is a full miss pick8 a half miss pick8 #d4 ,:at is ! second process ( f9i%+8 ,:at is m5d+8 ,( :at mu/ ! m5d] be c>eful8 ,exp]im5t #ai--,removal ( ,/a9s ,mat]ial3 ,/a9$ fabrics4 ,textiles are easily /a9$1 !re=e x is necess>y to "k some?+ ab\t ! "* ( /a9s & ! me?ods ( removal4 ,/a9s may be r\ghly divid$ into ! foll[+ classes3 a4 ,/a9s f foods1 su* z grease & fruit acids4 b4 ,/a9s f ma*9]y1 z :eel grease & oils4 c4 ,blood /a9s4 d4 ,inks4 e4 ,*emicals1 su* z acids1 alkalies4 ,food /a9s are usually due ei!r to grease conta9$ 9 s\p1 meat1 milk1 etc41 or to sug> conta9$ 9 c&ies or pres]ves1 or to fruit acids conta9$ 9 fre% fruits or sauces4 ,:eel grease & lubricant /a9s are obta9$ f v>i\s p>ts ( ma*9es1 l elevators1 /reet c>s1 etc4 ,aft] ! clo? leaves ! loom x (t5 conta9s spots ( grease1 oil1 or dirt /a9s due to dripp+s f ! loom or ov]head ma*9]y4 ,^! are remov$ by means ( liquids call$ solv5ts t dissolve ! /a94 ,e!r is ! pr9cipal solv5t us$ 9 ! mill to remove small /a9s4 ,v few p realize t vapors ( cook$ food & fat1 unless c>ri$ out ( a h\se1 w cond5se & settle on fabrics 9 ! =m ( a film :i* collects a great deal ( du/4 7,a bad grease spot usually has a neglect$ grease spot = a f\ndation47 ,9 ord] to break up ?is film x is necess>y to sep>ate ! entangl$ du/4 ,?is is p]=m$ by "s me*anical means1 su* z %ak+ & bru%+4 ,! mo/ effective me?od ( remov+ a /a9 is to place a circle ( absorb5t mat]ial#bd ar\nd ! spot to take up ! excess ( liquid4 ,a :ite clo? %\ld be plac$ "u ! fabric to absorb ! solv5t & %[ :5 ! goods are clean4 ,!n apply ! solv5t ) a clo? ( ! same color & texture 7sat9 is excell5t z x does n gr[ l9ty7 & rub f outside ! spot to ! c5t] to prev5t spread+4 ,x is necess>y to rub v c>efully z excessive rubb+ w remove ! nap & *ange ! color4 ,"o ( ! great dang]s 9 remov+ a /a9 is t y may spoil ! fabric4 ,!re=e great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$4 ,! pr9cipal solv5ts are e!r1 *lor(orm1 alcohol1 turp5t9e1 b5z5e1 & naph?a4 ,ea* solv5t may be us$ to be/ advantage on c]ta9 fabrics4 ,! comm]cial grades ( ! solv5ts (t5 conta9 impurities t leave a br[n r+ aft] evaporation4 ,?is br[n r+ is v objectionable4 ,turp5t9e is us$ only 9 remov+ /a9s f co>se fabrics4 ,*lor(orm1 b5z5e1 & naph?a are us$ on ord9>y silks & l95s4 ,e!r & *lor(orm are us$ to be/ advantage 9 remov+ /a9s f delicate silk1 z !y seldom affect colors & evaporate v quickly4 ,( c\rse x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t :5 a /a9 is remov$ f a fabric t portion t conta9$ ! /a9 loses "s color+ matt] & feels r\gh] ?an ! o!r "p4 ,grease ,spots on ,heavy ,goods t _c be ,laund]$ ,x is usually desirable to use ! foll[+ me?od 9 remov+ grease f a heavy fabric1 su* z c>pets or color$ fabrics4 ,9 case ! grease is fre%1 place ov] ! /a9 a piece ( clean blott+ pap] or a piece ( but*]'s br[n wrapp+ pap] & und]nea? absorb5t pap] or oil clo?1 & !n press ! spot ) a w>m iron4 ,z heat (t5 affects ! %ades ( c]ta9 colors su* z blues1 gre5s1 & r$s1 x is be/ to hold a hot iron ov] ! fabric & see if ! grease is melt$4 ,remove a /a9 f a piece ( c>pet4 ,removal ( ,grease & ,blood ,ord9>y ,fabrics 7wa% goods74 ,wa% ! fabric conta9+ grease or blood /a9 ) tepid wat] & soap4 ,delicate ,fabrics4 ,z /rong soap w spoil "s colors & textures x is necess>y to apply a solv5t :5 a delicate fabric is /a9$4 ,remove /a9s f a wa%able fabric & a delicate fabric4 ,removal ( ,:eel ,grease & ,lubricants on ,f9e ,fabrics ,:eel grease is a mixture ( oils & graphite4 ,apply b5z5e to ! :eel grease spot4 ,?is w dissolve ! oil1 leav+ ! color+ matt] 7graphite7 on ! clo?1 & ?is may be collect$ on ! :ite clo? on ! o!r side4 ,remove a :eel grease /a9 f a dress fabric4 ,removal ( ,acids ,fruit acids & all o!rs1 except nitric acid may be remov$ by putt+ ammonia on ! spot4 ,?is w neutralize ! acid1 =m+ a salt :i* may be ei!r bru%$ or wa%$ (f4 ,9 ! case ( nitric acid ! fib]s ( ! clo? are actually de/roy$ & no am\nt ( ammonia w re/ore ! orig9al condition ( ! fabric4 ,remove a /a9 ( orange juice f a dress or %irt wai/4 ,removal ( ,blood ,blood /a9s may be remov$ f a fabric by wa%+ ) cold or tepid wat]4 ,nev] use hot wat]1 z hot wat] coagulates ! album5 ( ! blood4 ,aft] remov+ ! blood soap & w>m wat] may be us$4 ,9 case ! fabric is a ?ick clo?1 ! blood may be remov$ by applications ( moi/ />*4 ,take diff]5t samples ( fabrics & soil !m ) fruit acids1 s\p1 :eel grease1 ink1 & blood & remove !m4 ,ex]cise great c>e s z n to leave a m>k or remove ! color+4 ,remove blood f a fabric4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is a solv5t8 an absorb5t8 #b4 ,:at is ! be/ solv5t to be us$ 9 remov+ /a9s f silks1 co>se goods1 & l95s8 f delicate silks8 #c4 ,:y is a br[n r+ (t5 left aft] remov+ a /a98 #d4 ,h[ may grease & blood /a9 be remov$ f wa% goods8 #e4 ,:at is :eel grease8 ,h[ may x be remov$8 #f4 ,h[ w ammonia remove acid /a9s8 #g4 ,does x remove all8 ,:y n8 #h4 ,expla9 ! me?od ( remov+ blood /a9 f clo?4 ,exp]im5t #bj--;,dye+ ,wool ,app>atus3 ,l>ge porcela9 di% or cass]ole1 filt]4 ,mat]ials3 ,undy$ piece ( wool5 & wor/$ fabric1 undy$ y>n1 & undy$ raw clo?4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #fe4 ,directions #a4 ,prep>e a solution ( color+ matt] by dissolv+ a half ounce ( diamond dye 7gre5 or r$7 9 a qu>t ( wat]4 ,filt] ! solution4 ,place a piece ( :ite wool5 clo? 9 ! liquid & boil t5 m9utes4 ,!n wa% ! dy$ fabric & notice :e!r ! dye/uff wa%es (f or n4 #b4 ,repeat ! exp]im5t1 us+ ! same weight ( undy$ wool5 y>n4 ,repeat ) wor/$ y>n4 #c4 ,repeat ! exp]im5t us+ ! same weight ( wool sliv]4 #d4 ,notice :i* has ! deep] color4 ,! degree ( color dep5ds on ! am\nt ( twi/ 9 y>n4 ,:i* sample has absorb$ ! greate/ am\nt ( dye/uff f ! liquid8 a4 ,:y is a y>n-dy$ fabric fa/] ?an a piece-dy$8 b4 ,:y is a raw /ock dy$ fabric bett] ?an piece or y>n dy$8 ,exp]im5t #ba--;,dye+ ,cotton ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 filt] /&1 etc4 ,mat]ial3 ,piece ( cotton clo?4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #fg4 ,directions #a4 ,prep>e a solution ( color+ matt] by dissolv+ a half ounce ( logwood 9 a qu>t ( wat]4 ,filt] ! solution4 ,place a piece ( cotton clo? 9 ! liquid & boil t5 m9utes4 ,!n wa% ! dy$ fabric & notice :e!r ! dye/uff wa%es (f or n4 #b4 ,repeat ! same exp]im5t & use a piece ( cotton clo? t has be5 previ\sly wa%$ 9 common alum4#be ,note ! effect4 ,:i* has ! great] attraction = dye/uffs1 cotton or wool8 ,:y is alum us$8 #c4 ,repeat ! same exp]im5t1 us+ fir/ ! same weight ( cotton y>n & !n ! same weight ( cotton sliv]4 ,notice ! results4 ,:i* piece ( cotton holds ! dye be/1 t :i* 0 dipp$ 9 alum or ! "o t 0 simply boil$ 9 ! solution8 ,exp]im5t #bb--,weight+ ,silk4--,aff9ity ( ,metallic ,salts = ,silk ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%es4 ,mat]ial3 ,silk y>n4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #bab-bad4 ,directions #a4 ,weigh sep>ately two ske9s ( dry silk & di/+ui% ske9 ,no4 #a by loop+ "s cotton ?read into x4 ,prep>e a tepid ba? conta9+ #aj gm4 /rong suma* extract 9 #djj cc4 wat]4 ,ent] ! ske9s ( silk & "w = #ae to #bj m9utes1 mean:ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ab\t #aej ,f4 ,remove1 squeeze1 r9se ) wat]1 squeeze1 & dry ske9 ,no4 #a = weigh+4 #b4 ,mean:ile prep>e ano!r ba? conta9+ #d gm4 ( copp]as 7f]r\s sulphate7 9 #djj cc4 cold wat]4 ,"w ske9 ,no4 #b 9 ba? = #aj m9utes cold4 ,remove1 & r9se well2 save ! iron ba?4 ,repeat ! treatm5t 9 ! suma* & iron ba?s sev]al times m1 f9ally wa% ! suma* iron ske9 9 #a p] c5t hot soap solution2 r9se1 squeeze1 & dry4 ,weigh ea* dri$ & cool$ ske9 & note ! increase 9 weight ( ea*4 ,save sample = ,exp]im5t #bc & note ! effect ( weight+ on ! y>n4 ,exp]im5t #bc--;,dye+ ,silk ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 filt] /&1 etc4 ,mat]ial3 ,piece ( silk y>n4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #baj4 ,directions #a4 ,prep>e a solution ( color+ matt] by dissolv+ a half ounce ( logwood 9 a qu>t ( wat]4 ,filt] ! solution4 ,place a piece ( silk ske91 f ,exp]im5t #bb1 9 ! liquid & boil t5 m9utes4 ,!n wa% ! dy$ silk & notice :e!r ! dye/uff wa%es (f or n4 #b4 ,repeat ! same exp]im5t us+ ! same weight ( silk y>n )\t weigh+ x4 ,comp>e ! results4 ,exp]im5t #bd--,te/ to ,di/+ui% ,piece-,dy$ f ,y>n-,dy$ ,fabric ,app>atus3 ,p5 knife4 ,mat]ials3 ,wool5 & cotton fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #ff-fh4 ,directions ,unravel ?reads ( ! suspect$ sample1 & ) a blade ( p5 knife note :e!r ! dye/uff has p5etrat$ ?r\gh ! y>n z not$ by ! dep? ( color 9 ! int]ior ( ! y>n4 ,9 case !re is ! same dep? ( color 9 ! int]ior z on ! surface1 ! fabric is y>n-dy$4 ,if on ! o!r h&1 ! int]ior ( ! y>n is n s highly color$ z ! ext]ior1 x is piece-dy$4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is meant by y>n-dy$ fabric8 #b4 ,:at is meant by piece-dy$ fabric8 #c4 ,h[ may ! two be di/+ui%$8 ,exp]im5t #be--,te/ to ,di/+ui% ,dy$ f ,pr9t$ ,fabrics ,app>atus3 ,knife-blade4 ,mat]ials3 ,cotton fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #fe4 ,pr9t$ fabrics may be di/+ui%$ f dy$ by obs]v+ ! back side ( ! clo?1 & not+ :e!r or n ! patt]n on ! face ( ! clo? p5etrates ?r\gh to ! back1 or only ! outl9e %[s4 ,9 case ! figure or patt]n is on bo? sides ( ! fabric1 x may be di/+ui%$ f ! dy$ by tak+ "o ?read ( ! suspect$ sample1 & by ! means ( a knife-blade attempt+ to scrape (f ! color+ on ! surface ( ! ?read4 ,if ! dye/uff has p5etrat$ into ! int]ior ( ! ?read1 x is n pr9t$4 ,g5]ally speak+1 pr9t$ fabrics are kn[n f dy$ fabrics by ! fact t ! =m] h ! design pr9t$ on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,?is is call$ direct pr9t+4 ,! be/ dy$ fabrics are obta9$ by dye+ 9 :at is call$ a jig1 & ! :ole fabric is saturat$ ) color4 ,mo/1 if n all ! clo?s :i* y see 9 ! retail dry goods /ores :i* are 9 pla9 colors are dy$ 9 ! jig4 ,"s ( ! *eap] qualities ( dy$ fabrics are padd$ 9 a mangle1 b !re has be5 a v small quantity ( ^! goods on ! m>ket = _m ye>s4 ,pr9t$ fabrics may be made z fa/ z dy$ fabrics2 x all dep5ds ^u ! process by :i* ! goods are conv]t$4 ,)9 ! pa/ few ye>s great headway has be5 made 9 dye+ ) :at are t]m$ vat colors4 ,indan?r5e is a vat color & a great _m mills h us$ ?is class ( dye successfully 9 dye+ pla9 %ades4 ,?is is :at w\ld be t]m$ a fa/ color 9 e s5se ( ! ^w4 ,!re are a numb] ( dye/uff mak]s 9 ,europe :o put vat colors on ! m>ket1 b !y all call !m by diff]5t names4 ,vat colors h be5 us$ ) success 9 pr9t+ dur+ ! pa/ ye> or two1 especially on %irt+ fabrics1 & ^! colors are fa/ to bo? light & wa%+4 ,mo/ direct colors us$ = pr9t+ or dye+ are equally fa/ to light & wa%+1 b ( c\rse !y w n /& ! te/ z well z ! vat colors m5tion$ above4 ,! ess5tial qualities ( a good pr9t$ fabric are its ability to )/& exposure to light & wa%+4 ,9 pr9t+1 ( c\rse1 a great] v>iety ( desirable /yles c be obta9$ ?an by dye+1 9 fact !re are c]ta9 popul> l9es ( goods n[ on ! m>ket ! effect ( ! designs ( :i* _c be obta9$ 9 any o!r way ?an by pr9t+4 ,at ! same "t1 al?\gh ! field 9 design+ = dy$ fabrics is limit$1 "s v h&some effects c be obta9$4 ,x w n be _m ye>s be=e a l>ge proportion ( ! pr9t$ & dy$ fabrics put on ! m>ket1 bo? =eign & dome/ic1 w be 9 ! vat colors :i*1 z /at$ above1 are v fa/4 ,ev5 at ! pres5t "t !re are _m mills t are us+ ?is class ( colors entirely1 especially ! mills :i* manufacture wov5 fabrics4 ,que/ions #a4 ,9 pr9t$ fabrics is ! patt]n cle>ly disc]nible on ! back ( ! clo?8 #b4 ,if ! fabric is pr9t$ on bo? sides1 h[ may ?is fact be prov$8 #c4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce betwe5 pr9t$ & dy$ fabrics8 ,exp]im5t #bf--;,blea*+ by ,sulphur ,dioxide ,app>atus3 ,a qu>t bottle4 ,mat]ial3 ,sulphur1 wor/$ or silk fabric4 ,blea*+ p[d] _c be us$ 9 blea*+ animal fib]s su* z wool5 & silk fabrics4 ,x injures ! fib]s & at ! same "t leaves !m yell[4 ,animal fib]s are be/ blea*$ by imm]s+ 9 an aque\s solution ( sulphur\s acid or expos+ !m to fumes ( burn+ sulphur4 ,wet a piece ( dy$ wor/$ or silk fabric & hang x 9 a qu>t bottle conta9+ fumes ( burn+ sulphur4#bf ,! fumes ( burn+ sulphur h an aff9ity = color+ matt]--dye/uff4 ,! fumes 7call$ sulphur dioxide7 d n 9 mo/ cases de/roy ! color+ matt] z *lor9e does1 b simply comb9e ) x to =m colorless comp\nds :i* c be de/roy$4 ,! color c be re/or$ by expos+ ! blea*$ fabric to dilute sulphuric acid4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y is x necess>y t ! fabric be moi/ 9 ord] to be blea*$ by sulphur dioxide fumes8 #b4 ,:at becomes ( ! color+ matt]8 ,exp]im5t #bg--;,blea*+ by ,blea*+ ,p[d] ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%4 ,mat]ial3 ,piece ( calico4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #adh4 ,directions ,place a qu>t] ( an ounce ( blea*+ p[d] 9 a qu>t bottle conta9+ a p9t ( wat]4#bg ,!n place a piece ( calico 9 ! wat] conta9+ ! blea*+ p[d]4 ,:at is ! effect on ! calico8 ,!n remove clo? to ano!r bottle fill$ ) dilute hydro*loric or dilute sulphuric acid4 ,:at is ! effect on ! color8 ,!n wa% ! :it5$ clo? ?or\ghly 9 wat]4 ,:y is x necess>y 9 practice to pass cotton fabrics ?r\gh two ba?s 9 blea*+8 ,:at is conta9$ 9 ! fir/ ba?8 9 ! second ba?8 ,exp]im5t #cj--;,det]m9+ ,/yle ( ,weave ,app>atus3 ,pick glass4 ,mat]ials3 ,diff]5t fabrics4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #ef-eh1 etc4 ,exam9e diff]5t samples ( clo? & classify !m accord+ to ! sev5 /&>ds giv5 on pages #ef-eh1 etc4 ,exp]im5t #ca--;,det]m9+ ! ,size ( ,y>n ,app>atus3 ,y>d /ick4 ,mat]ials3 ,sample ( cotton1 wool51 & wor/$ y>ns4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #di1 #ea1 #eb4 ,z y>ns us$ 9 ! manufacture ( fabrics are ( all degrees ( ?ickness1 x became necess>y to adopt "s me?od ( measur+ ?is ?ickness4 ,= ?is purpose y>ns are numb]$1 s t :5 ! numb] is kn[n an idea ( ! size ( ! y>n may be ga9$4 ,x w\ld seem advisable to numb] y>ns ( all k9ds accord+ to "o fix$ /&>d1 yet un=tunately ?is is n done4 ,! me?ods ( c\nt+ y>ns are _m & v>i$4 ,! usual me?od is to e/imate ! y>n numb] by tak+ ! numb] ( h&s ( a def9ite l5g? :i* make up "s giv5 weight4 ,?us 9 ! wor/$ y>n1 ,no4 #a is a y>n t has #efj y>ds to a p\nd4 ,no4 #b wor/$ y>n has two times #efj y>ds to a p\nd4 ,h[ _m y>ds 9 ,no4 #ab wor/$ y>n8 ,h[ _m y>ds 9 ,no4 #bj cotton y>n8 ,exp]im5t #cb--,te/ = ,twi/ 9 ,y>n ,app>atus3 ,te/ dial4 ,mat]ial3 ,piece ( y>n4 ,ref]5ces3 ,textiles1 pages #aca-acb4 ,z ! am\nt ( twi/ 9 y>n det]m9es its /r5g?1 x is necess>y to "k ! am\nt ( twi/ p] in* 9 giv5 y>n4 ,! /r5g? increases up to a c]ta9 limit4 ,:5 ?is limit is rea*$1 increas$ twi/ does n make ! ?read any /rong]4 ,we may also h twi/ & /r5g? at ! exp5se ( bulk4 ,! te/ consi/s 9 f9d+ out ! numb] ( turns p] in*1 & ?is is done by an arrangem5t :]e a c]ta9 l5g? ( y>n is /ret*$ betwe5 two po9ts on a twi/+ ma*9e & ! twi/ tak5 out4 ,! numb] ( turns requir$ to take ! twi/ completely out are regi/]$ on a dial at ! side ( ! app>atus4 ,poor cotton t goes into co>se goods _c be spun z f9e z ! f9] cotton4 ,! %ort] ! cotton ! m twi/ is requir$ to sp9 x1 & ! m twi/ t is put into ! y>n1 ! less w be ! y>dage4 ,:]eas on ! f9] & long] cotton !re w be less twi/ put into x1 & ! y>n w be mu* /rong]4 ,f9d ! twi/ 9 diff]5t k9ds ( y>n4 ,exp]im5t #cc--;,det]m9+ ! ,direction ( ,w>p & ,fill+ ,app>atus3 ,microscope4 ,mat]ials3 ,silk1 cotton1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bch4 ,:5 "o exam9es a fabric ! fir/ ?+ to d is to det]m9e ! direction ( ! w>p & direction ( ! fill+4 ,fabrics ) ,selv$ge4--,exam9e any fabric ) a selv$ge & notice t ! w>p ?reads run 9 ! same direction z ! l5g? 7longe/ side7 ( ! selv$ge4 ,:at direction w ! fill+ ?reads be> to ! selv$ge8 ,fabrics ) a ,nap4--,exam9e a piece ( flannel & notice ! direction ( ! nap4 ,:y w ! direction ( ! nap be ! same z ! direction ( ! w>p8 ,rememb] ! way 9 :i* ! fabric ent]s ! napp+ ma*9e4 ,fabrics ,conta9+ ,d\ble ,?reads4--,exam9e a fabric conta9+ d\ble & s+le ?reads & notice t ! w>p conta9s ! d\ble ?reads4 ,:y8 ,fabrics ,conta9+ ,cotton & ,wool5 ,y>n4--,exam9e a fabric conta9+ cotton & wool5 ?reads runn+ 9 diff]5t directions & notice t ! cotton ?reads =m ! w>p4 ,:y8 ,ano!r way to tell ! w>p ?reads 9 a fabric is to exam9e w>p & fill+ ?reads v closely & notice :i* set conta9s ! great] twi/8 ,:y8 ,see if !y are sep>at$ at m regul> int]vals4 ,:y8 ,/iff5$ or ,/>*$ ,fabrics4--,exam9e /iff5$ or />*$ goods v closely & notice ! ?reads4 ,if only "o set c be se5 !y are ! w>p ?reads4 ,! /iff] & /raight] ?reads are f\nd 9 ! w>p4 ,:y8 ,! r\gh & crook$ ?reads are se5 9 ! fill+4 ,exp]im5t #cd--;,det]m9+ ! ,d5sity ( a ,fabric ,app>atus3 ,pick glass4 ,mat]ials3 ,samples ( clo?4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bch4 ,directions #a4 ,exam9e diff]5t samples ( clo? & det]m9e ! numb] ( fill+ ?reads & w>p ?reads by means ( a pick glass4 #b4 ,!n exam9e diff]5t pric$ fabrics ( ! same k9d & see :e!r ! l[ or high pric$ fabric has ! great] d5sity4 ,exp]im5t #ce--;,det]m9+ ,weight ,app>atus3 ,balances1 die4 ,mat]ials3 #d squ>e in*es ( clo?4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bci4 ,directions #a4 ,fabrics are b\ght & sold by ! y>d4 ,9 ord] to express ! am\nt ( wool or cotton 9 a fabric ! weight 9 ounces p] y>d is usually giv54 #b4 ,9 ord] to f9d ! numb] ( ounces p] y>d a piece ( clo? ( def9ite size1 usually ab\t #d sq4 941 is /amp$ out by means ( a die1 or cut by means ( a t9 plate exactly #d sq4 94 7#b 94 on ! side74 ,?is is !n weigh$ on v accurate balances & express$ 9 gra9s4 ,f9d ! weight p] y>d4 ,rememb] #gjjj gra9s equal #a lb42 #af oz4 equal #a lb4 ,exp]im5t #cf--;,det]m9+ ,%r9kage ,app>atus3 ,hot wat]4 ,mat]ial3 ,sample ( wool5 fabric4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bci4 ,directions #a4 ,take a sample ( a wool5 fabric #ab 94 by #bj 94 & p\r hot wat] ov] x & leave x imm]s$ ov] night4 ,!n dry x 9 ! morn+ at a mod]ate temp]ature )\t /ret*+4 ,!n measure its l5g? & divide ! diff]5ce 9 l5g?s by ! orig9al l5g?4 ,! quoti5t multipli$ by #ajj w give ! p] c5t ( %r9kage4 #b4 ,repeat ! same exp]im5t ) a wor/$ fabric1 & ) a cotton fabric4 #c4 ,:y does ! wool5 fabric %r9k m ?an ! wor/$8 ,exp]im5t #cg--,te/ ( ,fa/ness#bh ( ,color "u ,wa%+ ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 soap solution4 ,mat]ials3 ,cotton & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdb4 ,directions #a4 ,color$ goods & pr9t$ fabrics %\ld )/& ! action ( wa%+4 ,!y require m c>e ?an :ite goods & %\ld be soak$ 9 cold wat] conta9+ v little soap & no soda4 ,!y %\ld be dri$ 9 ! %ade z a v hot sun w fade !m4 ,if x is necess>y to dry !m 9 ! sun be sure t !y are dri$ wrong side out1 z direct sunlight fades !m ab\t five times z mu* z reflect$ light4 #b4 ,all color$ fabrics %\ld /& me*anical friction z well z ! action ( soap liquor & ! temp]ature ( ! wa%+ op]ation4 ,9 ord] to te/ ! fabric = fa/ness a piece %\ld be plac$ 9 a soap solution simil> to t us$ 9 ! ord9>y h\sehold1 & heat$ to #aca ,f4 ,! treatm5t %\ld be repeat$ sev]al times4 #c4 ,if ! color fails to run x is fa/ to wa%+4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:y %\ld m c>e be ex]cis$ 9 wa%+ color$ goods ?an :ite8 #b4 ,h[ may color$ fabrics be te/$ to %[ t !y /& ! action ( soap solution8 #c4 ,does a mod]ately w>m temp]ature 7#aca ,f47 affect ! fa/ness ( color$ fabric8 ,exp]im5t #ch--,te/ ( ,fa/ness ( ,color "u ,friction ,app>atus3 ,y>n1 :ite un/>*$ cotton fabric4 ,mat]ials3 ,fabrics worn ne> ! sk94 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdb4 ,directions ,/ock+s1 hosi]y y>ns1 corset /uffs1 & all fabrics int5d$ to be worn next to ! sk9 mu/ be closely knitt$ to )/& friction & mu/ n rub (f1 /a91 or run1 t is1 ! dy$ mat]ials mu/ n give (f _! color :5 worn next to ! human epid]mis 7sk971 or 9 close contact ) o!r articles ( clo?+1 z 9 ! case ( und]we>4 ,9 ord] to te/ two fabrics to see :i* is ! bett]1 x is necess>y to rub ! fabric or y>n on :ite un/>*$ cotton fabric4 ,9 comp>+ ! fa/ness ( color ( two fabrics x is necess>y to h ! rubb+ equal 9 all cases4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is meant by friction8 #b4 ,:at is meant by ! expression fa/ness ( color ( two fabrics8 #c4 ,h[ may ! fa/ness ( a color$ mat]ial be te/$ to )/& friction8 ,exp]im5t #ci--,te/ ( ,fa/ness ( ,color aga9/ ,ra9 ,app>atus3 ,wat]1 undy$ y>n4 ,mat]ials3 ,silk & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdc4 ,directions ,silk & wool5 mat]ials = umbrella mak+1 ra9coats1 etc41 are expect$ to be ra9pro(4 ,^! fabrics are te/$ by plait+ ) undy$ y>ns & left to /& all night 9 wat]4 ,notice :e!r ! color ( ! fabric has run into ! undy$ y>ns4 ,take a sample ( ! fabric & %ake "s drops ( wat] on x4 ,notice :e!r x loses its lu/] :5 ! drops h dri$4 ,spott+ may be prev5t$ by plac+ a damp clo? on ! wrong side ( ! mat]ial2 roll ! two toge!r1 & :5 ev5ly damp1 unroll & press ?r\gh ! damp clo? ) a fairly hot iron4 ,place a piece ( ! fabric 9 ! sun s t ! sun & ra9 may come 9 contact ) x4 ,notice :e!r x loses its color & becomes gray & dull4 ,exp]im5t #dj--,te/ ( ,fa/ness ( ,color 9 ,sunlight ,app>atus3 ,c>dbo>d4 ,mat]ials3 ,silk1 wool51 & cotton fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdd4 ,directions ,cov] "o end ( ! sample ( clo? ) a piece ( c>dbo>d4 ,expose ! fabric to ! sunlight = a numb] ( days & exam9e ! clo? ea* day & notice :e!r ! "p expos$ has *ang$ 9 color :5 comp>$ ) ! "p cov]$4 ,c\nt ! numb] ( days x has tak5 ! sunlight to *ange ! color4 ,does direct sunlight h any effect ^u color$ fabrics8 ,:i* is ! mo/ affect$ by ! sun1 silk1 wool51 or cotton fabrics1 dy$ ) same dye/uff1 9 ! same l5g? ( "t8 ,are fabrics *ang$ any soon] by ! sun ?an by ! wea!r8 ,exp]im5t #da--,te/ ( ,fa/ness ( ,color to ,wea!r1 ,light1 & ,air ,mat]ials3 ,cotton1 silk1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdd4 ,directions ,exam9e v>i\s fabrics = fa/ness to wea!r1 light1 & air by plac+ samples outside ( a w9d[ s t !y w be expos$ to ! wea!r1 light1 & air4 ,h duplicate samples ( ! above away f ! wea!r & light4 ,comp>e ! samples expos$ to ! wea!r ) ^? 9 ! h\se & note ! numb] ( days x takes to *ange4 ,classify ! fabrics4 ,:i* ( ! fabrics are mo/ easily affect$ by ! wea!r1 light1 & air8 ,exp]im5t #db--,te/ ( ,fa/ness ( ,color aga9/ ,/reet ,mud & ,du/ ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 lime1 & wat]4 ,mat]ials3 ,cotton1 silk1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdc4 ,ladies' dress goods are expect$ to )/& ! action ( mud & du/4 ,9 ord] to te/ a fabric = ! resi/ance1 ! sample %\ld be moi/5$ ) lime & wat] 7#aj p] c5t solution71 dri$1 & bru%$4 ,or spr9kle ) a #aj p] c5t solution ( soda1 dry+1 bru%+1 & not+ any *ange 9 ! color4 a4 ,is !re any *ange 9 color aft] ! lime wat] has be5 remov$ f ! clo?8 b4 ,) :at may ! action ( ! lime wat] or soda be comp>$8 ,exp]im5t #dc--,te/+ ,rubb]iz$ ,fabrics ,mat]ials3 ,rubb]iz$ fabrics4 ,a great _m rubb]iz$ fabrics are us$ = hospitals1 dome/ic purposes & = clo?+4 ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( excell5t rubb]iz$ fabrics a great _m sub/itutes are plac$ on ! m>ket t are satisfactory to ! eye1 b h n ! we>+ qualities = ! s]vice !y are int5d$ to r5d]4 ,/r5g? & ,resi/ance to ,scrat*+4--,9 ord] to te/ a rubb]iz$ fabric to see if x has ! necess>y /r5g? to /& ev]yday use1 see if x is possible to scrat* x ) ! f+] nail4 ,!n crease x & crumple x betwe5 ! h&s4 ,!n spread x out v c>efully & notice :e!r !re are any brok5 places4 ,if !re are x %\ld be reject$4 ,wat]pro( ,qualities4--,a rubb]iz$ fabric %\ld be wat]pro(4 ,a sample may be te/$ by =m+ a bag ) x & fill+ x ) wat]4 ,crumple ! bag :ile x is fill$ ) wat]4 ,notice :e!r x cracks or leaks4 ,exam9e v>i\s rubb]iz$ fabrics & notice :e!r !y are sub/antial4 ,exp]im5t #dd--,te/ = ,vegetable & ,animal ,fib] ,app>atus3 ,acid1 fire4 ,mat]ials3 ,w>p & fill+ ?reads ( cotton & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bci4 ,directions ,"o ( ! mo/ useful te/s is to see :e!r an article is made ( wool1 cotton1 or silk1 & if a composition ( two or m mat]ials1 to e/imate ! p]c5tage ( ea*4 ,practical exp]i5ce c tea* "o mu* 9 ?is respect1 & 9 _m cases inspection is q insuffici5t4 ,a m reliable te/ is to burn a piece ( mat]ial & notice h[ x burns4 ,take a sample ( a wool5 & cotton fabric2 sep>ate ! w>p & fill+ & untwi/ "o piece ( w>p & "o piece ( fill+ y>n4 ,burn a piece ( untwi/$ y>n & notice :e!r x burns sl[ly & curls up into a black crisp c9d] leav+ a disagreeable smell1 or burns ) a fla% leav+ a light a% beh9d4 ,que/ions #a4 ,describe ! burn+ process4 #b4 ,:at is ! burn+ te/ = vegetable fib]8 #c4 ,:at is ! burn+ te/ = animal fib]8 ,repeat ! same exp]im5t1 plac+ ! untwi/$ y>n 9 sulphuric acid4 ,apply heat & note ! effect4 ,:at is ! acid te/ = vegetable fib]8 ,:at is ! acid te/ = animal fib]8 ,exam9e diff]5t fabrics to see :e!r !y conta9 vegetable or animal fib]s4 ,exp]im5t #de--;,diff]5ce betwe5 ,cotton & ,l95 ,fabrics ,exam9e a real l95 t[el & a cotton t[el4 ,wet y\r h&s & use bo? t[els to dry !m4 ,notice :i* ( ! fabrics absorbs ! moi/ure quick]1 or :i* t[el dries ! h&s bett]4 ,comp>e a cotton table-clo? & a l95 table-clo?4 ,notice t ! l95 fabric has a natural gloss1 a cool1 smoo? feel1 & laund]s mu* bett] ?an cotton4 ,! cotton fabric on ! o!r h& gives (f a fuzz1 & irons dull & %apeless4#bi ,l95 is t\gh & /rong1 cool feel+1 & has a long fib]4 ,l95 _c be giv5 a cotton fabric f9i%4#cj ,cotton on ! o!r h& has a weak1 %ort fib]1 dull1 w>m1 & non-absorb5t4 ,aft] wa%+1 cotton resembles a limp rag :ile l95 reta9s firmness & /iffness4 ,:i* fabric absorbs ! moi/ure m readily8 ,:at is ! diff]5ce 9 appe>ance betwe5 ! two fabrics8 ,betwe5 ! fib]s ( ! fabrics8 ,exp]im5t #df--,te/ to ,di/+ui% ,artificial ,silk f ,silk ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 potassium hydrate4 ,mat]ial3 ,piece ( silk fabric4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdj4 ,s9ce silk fabrics1 p>ticul>ly hosi]y1 are becom+ popul>1 v>i\s attempts h be5 made to produce sub/itutes = real silk4 ,to te/ a silk fabric1 boil ! sample 9 #d p] c5t potassium hydrate solution & note ! effect4 ,if x produces a yell[ solution x is artificial silk1 if colorless x is pure silk4 ,ano!r simple way us$ by "s workm51 al?\gh unhygi5ic1 is to unravel a few ?reads ( ! suspect$ fabric1 place !m 9 ! m\?1 & ma/icate !m vigor\sly4 ,artificial silk w s(t5 "u ! op]ation & break up into a mass ( pulp4 ,natural silk w reta9 its fibr\s /r5g?4 ,te/ v>i\s samples ( *eap silk hosi]y4 ,exp]im5t #dg--,te/ to ,di/+ui% ,silk f ,wool ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%1 hydro*loric acid4 ,mat]ial3 ,silk or wool5 fabric4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdj4 ,silk may be di/+ui%$ f wool by putt+ ! suspect$ ?read or fabric into cold conc5trat$ hydro*loric acid4 ,if silk is pres5t x w dissolve1 :ile wool m]ely swells4 ,te/ v>i\s samples ( silk & wool4 ,exp]im5t #dh--,te/ to ,di/+ui% ,cotton f ,l95 ,app>atus3 ,fu*s9e1 ammonia4 ,mat]ials3 ,cotton & l95 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdj4 ,directions #a4 ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( l95 v>i\s attempts are made to pass cotton (f = l954 ,:ile x is possible sometimes to detect cotton by roll+ ! suspect$ fabric betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 ! bett] way is to /a9 ! fabric ) fu*s9e4 ,if ! fib]s ( ! fabric turn r$1 & ?is coloration disappe>s ^u ! addition ( ammonia1 !y are cotton2 if ! r$ color rema9s1 ! fib]s are l954 ,! mo/ reliable te/ is to exam9e ! fib] "u ! microscope & note ! diff]5ce 9 /ructure4 #b4 ,te/ a *eap l95 fabric = cotton4 #c4 ,:5 cotton y>n is us$ to adult]ate l95 x becomes fuzzy ?r\gh we>1 & :5 us$ to adult]ate o!r fabrics1 x we>s %abby & loses its brightness4 ,l95 is a heavi] fabric1 & wr9kles mu* m readily ?an cotton4 ,x we>s bett]1 & has an exquisite fre%ness t is n f\nd 9 cotton fabrics4 #d4 ,describe a *emical te/ = l954 #e4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce 9 appe>ance & we>+ qualities ( cotton & l958 ,exp]im5t #di--,te/ ( ,fabric to ,)/& ,iron+ & ,press+ ,app>atus3 ,hot iron4 ,mat]ials3 ,silk1 cotton1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,directions ,place ! sample ov] an iron+ bo>d & iron x ) hot iron 7ab\t #bjj ,f474 ,comp>e ! sample imm$iately ) "o n iron$4 ,rememb] t _m colors1 p>ticul>ly color$ silks1 *ange :ile !y are hot4 ,if ! orig9al %ade returns :5 ! fabric has cool$1 !n ! fabric is fa/ to iron+ & press+4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is ! object ( iron+ & press+ clo!s8 #b4 ,is x a good plan to press clo!s (t58 #c4 ,is !re any diff]5ce 9 ! effect ( ! hot iron on ! ?ree k9ds ( fabrics8 ,exp]im5t #ej--,te/ ( ,fabric to ,)/& ,p]spiration ,app>atus3 ,porcela9 di%4 ,mat]ials3 ,silk1 cotton1 & wool5 fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdc4 ,directions #a4 ,9 addition to )/&+ ! action ( com+ 9 contact ) ! human sk91 fabrics l hosi]y1 etc41 %\ld )/& ! excretions ( ! body4 #b4 ,to te/ a fabric = resi/ance1 place ! sample 9 a ba? ( dilute acid made by add+ "o teaspoonful ( acetic acid to a qu>t ( wat] w>m$ to ! temp]ature ( ! body1 #ih4f ,f4 ,! fabric %\ld be dipp$ a numb] ( times1 & !n dri$1 )\t r9s+1 betwe5 p>*m5t pap]4 ,que/ions #a4 ,:at is ! effect ( ! acid solution ^u ! fabrics8 #b4 ,w\ld !y necess>ily )/& ! effect ( p]spiration1 ev5 if !y did )/& ! acetic acid solution8 ,:y8 ,exp]im5t #ea--,te/ = ,det]m9+ ,dress+ ,app>atus3 ,magnify+ glass1 porcela9 di%4 ,mat]ials3 ,v>i\s fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bdb4 ,directions #a4 ,a great _m cotton fabrics su* z musl9 (t5 conta9 consid]able siz+ or dress+4 ,9 ord] to exam9e a fabric & det]m9e :e!r too mu* dress+ has be5 us$1 take a small sample ( ! fabric & cru% x 9 ! h& & rub x toge!r1 s t ! dress+ is remov$ & ! quantity employ$ may be det]m9$4 ,if mu* dress+ has be5 us$1 du/ w be produc$ 9 rubb+4 ,prick ! surface ) y\r f+] nail4 ,notice :e!r ! />* comes (f4 ,!n wet y\r f+] & rub x on ! clo? & all[ x to dry4 ,does ! gloss disappe>8 #b4 ,ano!r me?od is to hold ! sample be=e ! light & notice :e!r y c recognize ! dress+4 ,exam9e ! sample ) a magnify+ glass 7or pick glass7 & notice :e!r ! dress+ is sup]ficial or p5etrates ! sub/ance ( ! fabric4 #c4 ,w\ld y buy l[ pric$ cotton goods ) a ?ick gloss & pa/y look8 #d4 ,notice ! effect 7lu/]less7 ( fabrics conta9+ mu* dress+ aft] wa%+4 #e4 ,a v simple way = tell+ ! am\nt ( load+ or weight+ 9 a cotton fabric is to weigh a giv5 sample1 !n boil ! fabric out 9 hot wat]1--boil+ = sev]al h\rs & !n dry+ x4 ,! diff]5ce 9 weight aft] dry+ & be=e boil+ gives ! weight ( siz+ mat]ial p] sample piece4 #f4 ,if m9]al load+ has be5 us$ to a great ext5t1 a l>ge residue is left aft] burn+4 ,exp]im5t #eb--,te/+ ! ,/r5g? ( ,clo? ,app>atus3 ,dynamomet]4 ,mat]ials3 ,v>i\s fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #bcg4 ,directions #a4 ,an excell5t way to te/ ! /r5g? ( a fabric is to place ! two ?umbs toge!r & press !m d[n on ! sample1 hold+ x tight und]nea?4 ,!n try to break ! ?reads1 fir/ 9 "o direction & !n 9 ! o!r4 ,d !y break easily8 ,notice :e!r "o set is v mu* /rong] ?an ! o!r4 #b4 ,manufactur]s usually te/ y>n & fabrics by means ( an in/rum5t call$ a dynamomet]4 ,9 ?is way "o c f9d out :e!r a y>n or fabric comes up to ! necess>y /r5g?1 & :e!r x has ! requir$ yield or /ret*4 ,bo? ^! po9ts are ( importance 9 practical "w1 = x is ess5tial t ! y>n z %[n %\ld at lea/ be /rong en\gh to be> ! /ra9 ( manufacture4 ,! te/ is made by /ret*+ a hank ( y>n betwe5 ! two hooks ( a clo? te/+ ma*9e4 ,! h&le at ! side is n[ turn$1 s t ! l[] hook desc5ds & puts a /ra9 on ! hank4 ,?is /ra9 is increas$1 & at ! same "t ! po9t] moves ar\nd ! dial1 :i* indicates 9 p\nds ! am\nt ( /ra94 ,:5 ! ?reads ( ! hank beg9 to break1 ! /ra9 is releas$1 & ! cat* at ! side keeps ! po9t] 9 position until ! am\nt ( /ra9 is read on ! dial4 ,! di/ance /ret*$ by ! y>n be=e breakage occurs is %[n 9 in*es & fractions ( an in*1 9 ! small indicator arrang$ ne> ! upp] hook4 ,te/ diff]5t fabrics & y>ns4 ,exp]im5t #ec--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,knitt$ ,fabric ,app>atus3 ,pick glass4 ,mat]ials3 ,knitt$ fabric1 wov5 fabric4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #aec4 ,directions #a4 ,exam9e a piece ( knitt$ fabric "u ! pick glass & notice ! con/ruction4 ,h[ does x diff] f weav+8 ,! s+le ?read is =m$ into r[s ( loops :i* hang ^u ea* o!r1 ?us giv+ ! knitt$ fabric its *>act]i/ic spr+9ess4 ,:y is hosi]y suitable = und]we>8 ,try to obta9 ! ?read ( ! knitt$ fabric & r$uce ! :ole to a heap ( y>n by cutt+ x4 ,is ! y>n intact8 #b4 ,a knitt$ fabric may be told f a wov5 fabric by /udy+ ! foll[+ sket*4 7,see page #caj47 ,note t ! elem5t ( /ret* or ela/icity is :olly lack+ 9 ! wov5 clo? except :at l5g?wise ela/icity may be 9 ! ?reads !mselves4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ref]r+ to ! pr9t$ diagram ( ! knitt$ fabric x w j z readily be se5 t its v /ructure implies su* a corrugation ( its individual loops t if di/5d$ by =ce 9 any direction its t5d5cy is to return to ! normal4 ,! ess5tial *>act]i/ics ( good hose are3 #a4 ,t !y %\ld be )\t seams4 #b4 ,t !y %\ld be s knit z to con=m to ! foot ( ! we>]4 #c4 ,t !y %\ld be ?ick5$ or re9=c$ :]e ! greate/ we> comes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ord9>y ,,weav+ a4 ,weft4 b4 ,w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pla9 ,,/ock+ ,,fabric ,! ess5tial *>act]i/ics ( good und]we> are3 #a4 ,x %\ld be made f ela/ic clo?1 :i* implies a knitt$ clo?4 #b4 ,x %\ld be por\s 9 a high degree--:e!r 9 w9t] weight or summ] weight4 #c4 ,! seams %\ld be made ^u ! mo/ mod]n sew+ ma*9es1 ) z little bulk z possible4 ,exp]im5t #ed--;,exp]im5t to ,illu/rate ,imp]fections 9 ,hosi]y ,app>atus3 ,magnify+ glass4 ,mat]ials3 ,hosi]y 7seconds74 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 page #aei4 ,exam9e a piece ( hosi]y call$ a second1 obta9$ f a hosi]y mill1 & notice :e!r any ( ! foll[+ defects are pres5t3 a4 ,y>n conta9s ?ick bits & buns4 b4 ,knots are badly ti$4 c4 ,discolor$ y>n4 d4 ,lacks solidity & firmness1 due to ! gauge be+ too co>se = ! y>n4 e4 ,full "w-y>n too ?ick = gauge4 ,exp]im5t #ee--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,cro*et ,fabric ,app>atus3 ,cro*et ne$le4 ,mat]ial3 ,?read4 ,directions #a4 ,cro*et+ is ano!r me?od1 l knitt+1 ( mak+ a fabric4 ,exam9e ! op]ation ( cro*et+4 ,notice t only "o ?read is made use (1 & is =m$ into loops by means ( a l>ge ne$le ) a hook at ! end4 ,! *ief po9t is t ! loops are n =m$ 9 uni=m r[s1 b "o loop at a "t1 & ) ! greate/ lib]ty to *oose any "p ( ! article already made to =m a new loop4 ,= ?is reason1 cro*et+ adapts itself to ! production ( fancy patt]ns useful = ornam5t+4 #b4 ,a knitt$ fabric c be told f a cro*et$ fabric by not+ t a knitt$ fabric is compos$ ( r[s or ranks ( loops ( a s+le y>n :i* int]lock successively ) simil> r[s or ranks ( loops1 :ile a cro*et$ fabric consi/s ( a /ructure ! basis ( :i* is a ?read cro*et$ or knitt$ into a *a9 :i* is atta*$ at int]vals to itself4 ,exp]im5t #ef--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,good ,piece ( ,cotton ,clo? ,mat]ials3 ,diff]5t samples ( cotton fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #aea-aeb4 ,directions #a4 ,exam9e diff]5t k9ds ( cotton fabrics4 ,comp>e ! l[e/1 m$ium1 & highe/ pric$ v>ieties ( ! same fabric4 ,notice h[ quickly ! f9i% ( a l[ pric$ cotton fabric ) a ?ick gloss loses its lu/] aft] wa%+4 #b4 ,exam9e ! diff]5t grades ( ! foll[+ fabrics3 :ite lawn1 ,indian ,head cotton suit+1 musl91 lawn1 & cambric4 ,wa% ! samples sev]al times4 ,does x pay to buy *eap cotton fabrics = und]we>1 etc48 ,:at are ! *>act]i/ics ( a good piece ( cotton clo?8 ,exp]im5t #eg--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,good ,piece ( ,wool5 ,clo? ,mat]ials3 ,diff]5t samples ( wool5s4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #ga-hb4 ,directions #a4 ,wool5s diff] f wor/$s 9 hav+ a m or less cov]$ face1 ) ! result t ! weave r>ely is noticeable1 & ! g5]al color effects are mu* smoo!r & s(t] ?an ^? ( wor/$s4 #b4 ,exam9e diff]5t grades ( wool5 fabrics1 su* z s]ges4 ,defects4--,if a piece ( wool5 is n con/ruct$ "r f ! />t or if ! "w is n prop]ly f9i%$1 t is1 en\gh full$ 9 wid? or l5g?1 x is liable to be raggy or slazy4 ,z a great _m fabrics are m or less teasel$1 !re is a possibility ( su* pieces becom+ too woolly & too hairy4 ,exp]im5t #eh--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,good ,piece ( ,wor/$ ,clo? ,mat]ials3 ,diff]5t k9ds ( wor/$ fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #ga-hb4 ,directions #a4 ,a good piece ( wor/$ fabric %\ld h a cle> outl9e ( ! patt]n1 p]fection ( weave l9es1 & :5 ! fabric is expos$ to light %\ld %[ a lu/] )\t poli%4 #b4 ,exam9e diff]5t types ( wor/$ fabrics1 & notice h[ _m con=m to ! above requirem5ts4 #c4 ,! mo/ ess5tial po9t ( wor/$ is t x %\ld h a clean & ev5 look+ face4 ,by clean is meant well %e>$4 ,by ev5 is meant t ! individual ends & picks us$ %\ld be ev5 & n full ( knots1 or ( any =eign matt]4 ,( c\rse1 !re are "s exceptions1 = in/ance1 9 an unf9i%$ wor/$ :i* has m or less nap on ! face1 x c\ld n be %e>$ absolutely cle>1 b at ! same "t1 ! face %\ld be v ev5ly cropp$4 ,defects4--,a s]i\s defect w\ld be if ! clo? 0 n well %e>$ or if x conta9$ _m unev5 cords & picks1 or ends & picks miss+1 or co>se ends & slubs4 ,exam9e diff]5t wor/$s & notice any defects4 ,,wor/$s4--,speak+ g5]ally1 wor/$s may be divid$ into two classes1 di/+ui%able accord+ to ! lu/] ( _! surface1 or to ! s(tness ( _! feel4 ,!y are us$ bo? = ladies' & m5's we>4 ,wor/$ coat+s may also be class$ z wor/$s4 ,! coat+s are wov5 9 bo? s+le & d\ble clo?s 9 fancy weave effects = piece dyes1 m>ket$ 9 v>iety ( f9i%1 accord+ to fa%ion4 ,"u ?is head+ may be classifi$ /aple clo?s1 su* z s]ges1 clays1 & fancy weave effects )\t any illum9ation4 ,!y c be f9i%$ 9 ?ree ways3--,cle>1 undress$1 & *eviot1 us$ = ladies' dress goods or m5's we>1 accord+ to weight4 ,! f9i% ( ! clo? v>ies accord+ to ! fa%ion1 b !re is always a c]ta9 dem& = cle> & undress$ wor/$s1 = m5's we>4 ,exam9e a numb] ( wor/$ fabrics & classify !m4 ,,suit+s4--,! t]m suit+s cov]s v>i\s manipulations ( manufactur$ goods4 #a4 ,t5nis suit+s1 compos$ ( all wool1 or all wor/$1 :ite or cream gr\nd1 decorat$ ) solid color1 silk & weave /ripe effects4 #b4 ,piece-dy$ wor/$s1 su* z a blue gr\nd ) :ite silk l9e1 cable cord1 & fancy weave /ripe effects1 or any o!r gr\nd %ade color ) its complem5t>y decoration appli$4 #c4 ,mixture wool or mixture wor/$ y>ns made into fabrics1 decorations appli$ 9 color2 cable1 silk1 & weave effects 9 /ripes or ov]l9e color *ecks1 suitable = m5's we>1 or decorat$ suitable = woman's we>4 ,! d>k] %ades = fall & ! light] %ades = spr+4 ,g5]al weight ( fabric = m5's we>1 #ab to #ad oz4 p] yd41 #ef 942 g5]al weight ( fabric = ladies' we>1 #h to #ab oz4 p] yd41 #ed 94 #d4 ,z a rule1 :5 "o speaks ( a suit+1 y expect to see a fancy effect1 9 ! =m ( a fancy /ripe1 *eck1 or a color$ mixture1 9 l\d or quiet tones ( decoration4 ,long naps 9 fancy effects are sometimes fa%ionable1 & at o!r times ! clo? f9i% is popul>4 ,?is class may be subdivid$ into #a4 ,light weight = spr+ or fall4 #b4 ,heavy weight = w9t]4 ,! light weight class g5]ally consi/s ( cov]t clo?s 9 light] colors = spr+1 & clo?s usually ( ! undress$ f9i% f wor/$ or wool5 /ock = fall4 ,! heavy weight class g5]ally consi/s ( heavily full$ goods1 su* z meltons1 beav]s1 naps1 etc41 :i* give a heavi] & w>m] coat = w9t] use only1 & :]e an exceptionally heavy coat is requir$1 d\ble & treble clo?s are occasionally employ$4 ,exam9e diff]5t k9ds ( suit+s & classify !m4 ,,tr\s]+s4--,tr\s]+s are m firmly wov5 ?an suit+s & are heavi]4 ,!y inv>iably h a /ripe4 ,! gr\nd %ade ( ! bett] grade ( m5's we> fabrics is g5]ally compos$ ( twi/ w>p y>ns1 rang+ f d>k slate gray to light lav5d] gray4 ,an endless v>iety ( broad & n>r[ f9e l9e effects is produc$ by exp]t manipulation & comb9ation ( weave & silk decorations1 produc+ ! pleas+ effect requir$ = ?is class ( goods4 ,! fill+ is ne>ly always black2 b sometimes a d>k slate is us$4 ,! *eap] grades are g5]ally made ( wool & cotton mixtures & twi/s1 d[n to all cotton1 9 imitation ( ! bett] grades4 ,,ov]coat+s4--,ov]coat+s are heavy wool5 or wor/$ fabrics & heavily teasel$ or gigg$1 giv+ a r\gh1 hairy appe>ance4 ,:e!r ?ick or ?91 co>se or f9e1 !y %\ld always be ela/ic fabrics1 t is1 z mu* s z well full$ wool5 goods c be4 ,:5 h>d or /iff !y nev] make a graceful g>m5t4 ,! special goods made = ov]coats are ne>ly all s(t goods4 ,exam9e diff]5t fabrics & classify !m into ei!r suit+s1 ov]coat+s1 tr\s]+s1 etc4 ,exp]im5t #ei--;,*>act]i/ics ( a ,good ,silk ,fabric ,mat]ials3 ,samples ( diff]5t *eap silk fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #bjc-bah4 ,!re are *eap & exp5sive silk fabrics on ! m>ket4 ,! consum] is (t5 tempt$ to buy ! *eap] fabric & wond]s :y !re is su* a diff]5ce 9 price4 ,! diff]5ce 9 price is due to ! co/ ( raw mat]ial & additional co/ is due to ! c>e 9 manufactur+4 ,= example1 raw silk co/s f #a4ce to #e a p\nd accord+ to its nature1 quality1 & ! c\ntry f :i* x comes4 ,! co/ ( ?r[+ silks prep>atory to dye+ also v>ies1 ! av]age be+ #ee c5ts a p\nd = organz9e or w>p1 & #cc c5ts a p\nd = tram & fill+4 ,! prices "h also v>y accord+ to ! nature ( ! twi/ imp>t$ to ! silk1 :i* is regulat$ by ! k9d ( clo? x is to ent] into4 ,! co/ ( dye+ v>ies f #ee c5ts a p\nd upw>ds to p]haps #a4ej a p\nd1 accord+ to ! dye & ! treatm5t :i* ! silk is to receive 9 ! process ( dye+4 ,! co/ ( w9d+1 quill+1 & sundry labor items necess>y ) s(t silk prior to its be+ wov51 w p]haps av]age ab\t a c5t p] y>d ( wov5 goods = ! *eape/ clo?s & range upw>ds accord+ to ! grade ( ! fabric4 ,! co/ ( weav+ also v>ies ) ! clo?1 & may be #i c5ts = "o fabric & #be c5ts or m p] y>d = ! m exp5sive4 ,weav]s are paid f #b c5ts to #fj c5ts p] y>d = weav+ ! diff]5t fabrics1 & o!r op]ations v>y greatly 9 co/2 = in/ance1 ! co/ ( pr9t+ is entirely dep5d5t ^u ! "w & ! numb] ( colors us$1 :e!r x is blot* pr9t+1 dis*>ge "w1 or block pr9t+4 ,diff]5t processes 9 f9i%+ h widely v>i$ co/s4 ,at ! pres5t "t moire "w is done :i* co/s z high z #be c5ts p] y>d4 ,!re are also o!r mat]ials :i* c be f9i%$ = z little z #a_/b c5t p] y>d4 ,"s goods h to be f9i%$ ov] & ov] aga9 9 ! dye+ & f9i%+ :ile o!rs are v simply done4 ,_m pr9t$ goods are h&l$ #aej times aft] !y come f ! loom4 ,:5 x comes to relative values ( simil> goods produc$ by diff]5t manufactur]s !re are a few g5]al pr9ciples by :i* good con/ruction c easily be det]m9$4 ,mo/ pure dye fabrics :5 burn$ w r %rivel & boil ?an burn1 :ile ^? :i* are weight$ heavily ) metallic salts w simply *> & turn :ite )\t los+ ! /ructure ( ! fabric4 ,a fabric 9 :i* ! quantity ( w>p & fill+ are ( equal weight gives ! maximum /r5g? = ! am\nt ( mat]ial us$4 ,= ! same weight & mat]ial1 t hav+ ! mo/ b9d+s ( w>p & fill+ w give ! great] s]vice4 ,fabrics ) an insuffici5t numb] ( w>p or fill+ ?reads slide easily & d n give good s]vice1 ?\gh sometimes fa%ionable4 ,a fabric hav+ a twi/ 9 ! w>p & fill+ w la/ long] ?an "o us+ ! same am\nt ( silk & ! same b9d+ ) less twi/4 ,all ( ^! ?+s may be taught to wom5 _m times ov]1 b if ! fa%ion dem&s an article :i* breaks all ( ! above laws & is ev]y?+ t x %\ld n be1 !y w buy x 9 pref]5ce to a s]viceable fabric4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ! consum] w be safe/ 9 buy+ goods produc$ by h\ses ( good reputation & ^: products are well kn[n4 ,a l>ge "p ( ! retail value ( silk goods is _! fa%ion dem& & is q indep5d5t ( _! co/ ( production4 ,= in/ance1 at ! pres5t "t crpe fabrics1 brocades1 & pr9ts are comm&+ a premium :ile su* goods z pla9 taffetas c\ld n be sold = ! co/ ( production4 ,! advantages ( ! bett] k9ds ( silks ov] ! *eap ones are pure dye1 long we>1 & m exp5sive manufactur+4 ,exp]im5t #fj--;,h[ to ,det]m9e ! ,c\nt ( ,y>n 9 ,clo? ,app>atus3 ,scales1 rul]4 ,mat]ial3 ,samples ( fabrics4 ,ref]5ce3 ,textiles1 pages #add-adf4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates ,gov]nm5t imposes a tax on c]ta9 import$ fabrics & y>n4 ,9 ! case ( cotton1 ! rates ( duty are to be asc]ta9$ accord+ to ! av]age numb] ( ! y>ns 9 ! condition 9 :i* x is import$4 ,! l5g? ( ! y>n is to be c\nt$ z equal to ! di/ance cov]$ by x 9 ! clo?1 all clipp$ ?reads to be measur$ z if cont9u\s & all ply y>ns to be sep>at$ into s+les & ! c\nt tak5 ( ! total s+les2 any excessive siz+ is to be remov$ by boil+ or o!r suitable processes4 ,! numb] ( ! y>n is ! ,engli% numb] ( #hdj yd4 to a lb4 = a ,no4 #a y>n4 ,! av]age numb] ( y>n may be f\nd )\t unravel+ ! fabric1 & is ! quoti5t ( ! total ?read l5g?1 by ! weight 9 ! proportion ( #hdj yd4 ( y>n equal+ #h-a_/c gra9s1 :i* is equival5t to a ,no4 #a y>n4 ,! foll[+ simple =mula may be us$3 ,multiply ! c\nt ( ?reads p] squ>e in* by ! numb] ( squ>e in*es 9 ! sample us$1 ?is product to be multipli$ by #ajj2 !n divide ! product ?us obta9$ by ! weight ( ! sample 9 gra9s multipli$ by #dcb4 ,! quoti5t w give ! numb] ( ! y>n4 ,= example1 take a sample ( cotton clo? #d 94 squ>e1 :i* equals #af sq4 941 hav+ #bh w>p & #bh wo( ?reads1 a total ( #ef ?reads to ! squ>e in*1 & weigh+ #h4f gra9s4 ,! =mula appli$ w\ld be z foll[s3 #ef #af #ajj #h4f #dcb #bd1 ! numb] ( ! y>n4 ,! =mula may be fur!r simplifi$ by weigh+ a squ>e y>d ( ! clo? & divid+ ! numb] ( ?reads p] squ>e in* by #a_/cjj ( ! weight p] squ>e y>d 9 gra9s4 ,f9d ! numb] ( y>n 9 sev]al cotton fabrics4 ,exp]im5t #fa--,/udy ( ,fabrics ,a great deal ( "t %\ld be devot$ to ! /udy ( /&>d fabrics s t pupils may be able to recognize !m by inspection & "k h[ to te/ !m = adult]ants4 ,?is may be done by hav+ ! pupils /udy ! fabrics "o by "o1 plac+ a sample ( ea* 9 a note-book4 ,und]nea? ! sample %\ld be writt5 ! use ( ! fabric1 ! wid?1 ! diff]5t grades1 ) prices1 we>+ qualities1 & h[ ! fabric is made4 ,9 connection ) ?is "w special ef=t %\ld be made to develop a textile vocabul>y s z to be able to discrim9ate betwe5 ! diff]5t fabrics1 to "k ! types ( weaves1 & ! diff]5t k9ds ( f9i%1 etc4 ,9 ?is way develop ! ability to "k :at mat]ials & colors weave be/1 ! prices :i* %\ld be paid = /rong mat]ials1 ! am\nt ( mat]ial necess>y1 & ! trade names ( fabrics :i* c be dep5d$ ^u = sub/antial goods4 ,occasional te/s 9 recogniz+ fabrics %\ld be giv5 by ! tea*] by plac+ be=e ! pupils unlabel$ fabrics t !y h previ\sly /udi$ & h !m give ! "n1 approximate price or grade1 weave1 qualities1 etc4 ,remnants or small pieces ( /&>d fabrics may be obta9$ f ! lead+ dry goods /ores ( ! c\ntry4 ,tea*]s %\ld h on exhibition 9 cab9ets a l>ge display ( /&>d fabrics ) a c>d atta*$ giv+ ! "n & use ( ea*4 ,exp]im5t #fb--;,h[ to ,exam9e a ,fabric ,! fir/ ?+ a buy] ( clo? notices 9 exam9+ ! fabrics is ! f9i%4 ,! f9i% is te/$ by feel+ & see+4 ,to illu/rate3 broadclo? %\ld h a smoo? face & a nap ev5ly laid4 ,if ! f9i% is 9 keep+ ) ! "* ( ! clo?1 he next exam9es ! fib] ( ! y>n to see :e!r x is compos$ ( pure wool or two or m fib]s 9 comb9ation4 ,!n te/ ! /r5g? ( ! clo? to see if x w meet ! requirem5ts4 ,a te/ %\ld be made to tell :e!r x is poorly dy$ or well dy$4 ,!re is no te/ t c be appli$ to all colors to asc]ta9 ?is1 nei!r is x possible to judge by ! eye4 ,! be/ way is to take a small sample ( ! goods & submit x to ! wa%+ & light te/4 ,,footnotes3 #ba ,dissect+ p9 may be made by plac+ head ( p9 or ne$le 9 a p5 hold]4 #bb ,a h& loom consi/+ ( simply a squ>e frame1 may be obta9$ f ,hammett ,co41 ,devon%ire ,/reet1 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 #bc ,9 ! case ( l95 ! %ort fib]s sep>at$ by comb+ are call$ t[1 & ! long fib]s l9e4 #bd ,absorb5ts are sub/ances t w absorb readily excess ( liquids2 !y include v>ieties ( *alk1 pa/e ( *alk1 or full]s' e>?1 r\gh surface ( a visit+ c>d1 buck:eat fl\r1 crumbs ( bread1 p[d]$ soap/one1 pumice1 :it+4 ,^! sub/ances are us$ to great advantage 9 assi/+ to remove /a9s f delicate fabrics4 ,!y absorb ! excess ( solv5t & ?us prev5t x f spread+4 #be ,alum 9 ?is case is call$ a mordant1 :i* is a sub/ance t w impregnate ! clo? ) some?+ :i* w hold ! color+ matt]4 ,o!r mordants are oxides1 hydroxides1 & basic salts ( alum9um1 iron1 t91 & *romium4 #bf ,place a piece ( sulphur on a deflagrat+ spoon & light x by plac+ x 9 ! flame & all[ x to burn4 ,cov] ! bottle by means ( a glass plate4 #bg ,blea*+ p[d] is prep>$ by pass+ *lor9e gas ov] lay]s ( slak$ lime 7lime to :i* a slight am\nt ( wat] has be5 add$74 ,blea*+ p[d] blea*es by hav+ its hypo*lor\s acid set free1 :i* 9 turn gives up oxyg51 be+ conv]t$ into hydro*loric acid4 ,! ,fr5* use solutions conta9+ *loride & hypo*lorite ( soda4 ,!y are call$ ,lab>raque's dis9fect+ fluid4 ,a simil> solution ( a mixture ( *loride & hypo*lorite is call$ ,eau de ,javelle4 #bh ,a description ( %oe & h& clo?+ may be obta9$ f ,%oemak+1 publi%$ by ,little1 ,br[n ,co41 ,bo/on4 #bi ,9 ,irel& ! co/ ( produc+ a p\nd ( blea*$ l95 clo? #d sq4 yd4 is #af;d4 or #cb cts42 co/ ( hackl+ a p\nd ( flax is #a_/b;d4 or #a ct4 p] lb42 co/ ( prep>+ & sp9n+ a p\nd ( flax is #f;d4 or #ab cts4 p] lb42 co/ ( w9d+ & weav+ a p\nd ( flax is #b-a_/b;d4 or #e cts4 p] lb42 co/ ( blea*+ & f9i%+ a p\nd ( flax is #g;d4 or #ad cts4 p] lb42 #ge is sp5t 9 turn+ #ajj wor? ( flax into y>n2 #ge is sp5t 9 turn+ #ajj wor? ( y>n into br[n l952 #ej is sp5t 9 turn+ #ajj wor? ( br[n l95 into l95 = m>ket4 #cj ,a l95 fabric c be be/ told f cotton by hold+ x up to ! light & exam9+ ! ev5ness ( ! ?reads4 ,cotton c be m easily spun level ?an flax1 !re=e ?reads t pres5t consid]able irregul>ities may be tak5 to be flax4 ,9 a union fabric ! nap is usually cotton & ! ?reads m regul> ?an ! fill+ 7flax74 ,! be/ l95 is made f f9e & fairly regul> ?reads2 common l95 f co>se & irregul> t[ y>ns4 ,l95 is no m subject to weak places 9 weav+ ?an cotton1 al?\gh x is h>d] to blea* & may be weak5$ 9 ?is process4 ,if ea* op]ation is n p]fect ! l95 w become yell[ 9 /orage4 ,,s\rces ,,( ,,supply ,! au?or has f\nd t v ne>ly all manufactur]s are will+ to supply s*ools ) samples ( _! products4 ,b ! dem& = samples has be5 s great t x is necess>y 9 mo/ cases to pay a small sum to cov] ! co/4 ,! foll[+ prom95t firms deal+ 9 textile supplies are nam$ "h to assi/ ! tea*]s 9 writ+ = supplies4 ,! names ( ! lead+ textile pap]s are giv5 s t tea*]s may obta9 !m4 ,!y conta9 a l>ge numb] ( names ( deal]s 9 textiles s t !y may be us$ z ref]5ce books = supplies4 ,catalogues ( ,cotton ,ma*9]y ,kitson ,ma*9e ,%op1 ,l[ell1 ,mass4--,cotton pick]s4 ,h[>d & ,bull\gh1 ,pawtucket1 ,r4 ,i4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,saco-,pettee ,ma*9e ,%op1 ,saco1 ,me4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,l[ell ,ma*9e ,%op1 ,l[ell1 ,mass4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,:it9 ,ma*9e ,works1 ,:it9sville1 ,mass4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,mason ,ma*9e ,works1 ,taunton1 ,mass4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,drap] ,co41 ,hop$ale1 ,mass4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,woonsocket ,ma*9e ,works1 ,woonsocket1 ,r4 ,i4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,fal] ,j5cks1 ,pawtucket1 ,r4 ,i4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,pott] ,johnson1 ,pawtucket1 ,r4 ,i4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,c4 ,e4 ,riley1 #fe ,frankl9 ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,cohoes ,iron ,f\ndry ,co41 ,cohoes1 ,n4 ,y4--,cotton ma*9]y4 ,am]ican ,moi/5+ ,co41 #abj ,frankl9 ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,humidifi]s & textile ma*9]y4 ,/&>d ,textile ,pap]s ,am]ican ,wool & ,cotton ,report]1 ,atlantic ,ave41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 ,am]ican ,silk ,j\rnal1 ,ea/ #bh? ,/41 ,new ,york ,city1 ,n4 ,y4 ,textile ,_w ,record1 ,congress ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 ,te*nical ,education ,bullet9 on ,illu/rative & ,laboratory ,supplies1 publi%$ by ,tea*]s ,college1 ,columbia ,univ]sity1 ,we/ #abj? ,/41 ,new ,york4 ,fibre & ,fabric1 #abg ,f$]al ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 ,textile ,manufactur]s ,j\rnal1 ,atlantic ,ave41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 ,wool1 ,cotton1 & ,silk ,samples ,am]ican ,wool5 ,co41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,booklets on ,f ,wool to ,clo?2 samples ( fabrics4 ,arl+ton ,mills1 ,*auncey ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,samples ( cotton & wool 9 diff]5t /ages ( manufacture2 fabrics4 ,s4 ,blaisdell1 ,jr41 ,*icopee1 ,mass4--,egyptian & ,p]uvian cotton1 etc4 ,frank ,a4 ,ti]ney1 #bfj ,broadway1 ,new ,york--,ramie4 ,geo4 ,c>t]1 #bdf ,broadway1 ,new ,york--,l95 y>ns & ?read4 ,bo/on ,y>n ,co41 #ej ,/ate ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,cotton y>n4 ,wonalancit ,co41 ,na%ua1 ,n4 ,h4--,samples ( cotton4 ,botany ,wor/$ ,mills1 ,passaic1 ,n4 ,j4--,fr5* spun wor/$ y>n4 ,c4 ,e4 ,riley1 #fe ,frankl9 ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,y>ns & fabrics4 ,adirondack ,wool ,co41 ,little ,falls1 ,n4 ,y4--,wools & %oddies4 ,sutcliffe1 ,atlantic ,ave41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,=eign wools4 ,francis ,willey ,co41 #eef ,atlantic ,ave41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,top1 =eign wools4 ,john ,l4 ,f>rell1 #baj ,summ] ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,mohair1 noils1 & c>pet wools4 ,! ,j4 ,r4 ,montgom]y ,co41 ,w9dsor ,locks1 ,conn4--,novelty y>ns4 ,catl9 ,co41 #fg ,*auncey ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,cotton y>ns4 ,norfolk ,wool5 ,co41 ,frankl91 ,mass4--,%oddies4 ,p>k] ,wild] ,co41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,samples ( fabrics4 ,lawr5ce ,co41 ,frankl9 ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,samples ( fabrics4 ,joy1 ,langdon1 ,co41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,samples ( fabrics4 ,cl>k ,?read ,co41 ,new>k1 ,n4 ,j4--,exhibit4 ,george ,a4 ,cl>k ,bro41 #djj ,broadway1 ,new ,york--,cab9et & booklet4 ,*5ey ,bro41 ,s4 ,man*e/]1 ,conn4--,silk samples1 silk fabrics4 ,johnson ,johnson1 ,new ,brunswick1 ,n4 ,j4--,wall *>t ( cotton field4 ,scordill1 #ijb ,canal ,/41 ,new ,orleans1 ,la4--,cotton po/al c>ds4 ,/orey ,cotton ,co41 ,! ,b\rse1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4--,booklet1 ,all ab\t ,cotton4 ,:ite ,oak ,cotton ,mills1 ,gre5sboro1 ,n4 ,c4--,/]eoscopic views4 ,willimantic ,?read ,co41 ,willimantic1 ,conn4 ,flax ,sp9n+ ,co41 ,york ,/41 ,belfa/1 ,irel&4--,pr9ts illu/rat+ l95 manufacture & samples4 ,jas4 ,mc,cutcheon ,co41 #e? ,ave4 & #cd? ,/41 ,new ,york4--,flax cab9et4 ,! ,l95 ,?read ,co41 #if ,frankl9 ,/41 ,new ,york4--,flax cab9et4 ,beld+ ,bro4 ,co41 #ebf ,broadway1 ,new ,york4--,s*ool exhibits ( silk4 ,bra9]d ,arm/rong1 #ajj ,union ,/41 ,new ,london1 ,conn4--,book & cab9et ( silk4 ,*ampla9 ,silk ,mills1 ,:itehall1 ,n4 ,y4--,spun silk & exhibits4 ,m4 ,hem9way ,sons1 ,silk ,co41 ,wat]t[n1 ,conn4--,booklets on silk4 ,nonatuck ,silk ,co41 ,flor5ce1 ,mass4--,seal$ cab9ets & books on silk4 ,william ,sk9n] ,sons1 #dg ,ea/ #ag? ,/41 ,new ,york ,city4--,silks & sat9s4 ,s4 ,mill]1 #cjd ,second ,ave41 ,new ,york4--,wool fib]4 ,milton1 ,bradley ,co41 ,spr+field1 ,mass4--,%eep *>t4 ,a4 ,h4 ,po/1 ,quak] ,hill1 ,new ,york4--,raw wool by ! p\nd4 ,s*]m]horn ,co41 #ab ,we/ #cc;d ,/41 ,new ,york ,city1 ,n4 ,y4--,wall *>t illu/ration ( %eep4 ,l4 ,s4 ,watson ,mfg4 ,co41 ,worce/]1 ,mass4--,h& c>ds4 ,h[>d ,bros41 ,worce/]1 ,mass4--,h& c>ds4 ,pr94 ,columbus ,indu/rial ,s*ool1 ,columbus1 ,ga4--,samples ( cotton plant or bolls4 ,wool5 ,y>ns ,hor/man ,co41 #e? & ,*]ry ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,lion ,y>n ,co41 #djh ,broadway1 ,new ,york4 ,catalogue ( ,wool5 & ,wor/$ ,ma*9]y ,c4 ,g4 ,s>g5t's ,sons1 ,graniteville1 ,mass4--,wool ma*9]y4 ,davis ,f]b] ,co41 ,no4 ,&ov]1 ,mass4--,wool5 & wor/$ ma*9]y4 ,l[ell ,ma*9e ,%op1 ,l[ell1 ,mass4--,wor/$ ma*9]y4 ,crompton ,kn[les1 ,worce/]1 ,mass4--,wor/$ silk ma*9]y4 ,spe$ ,/eph5son1 #agj ,summ] ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,textile ma*9]y4 ,george ,g]ry ,co41 ,a?ol1 ,mass4--,%oddy ma*9]y4 ,tolh\/ ,ma*9e ,works1 ,troy1 ,n4 ,y4--,hydro extractor4 ,p>ks ,woolson ,ma*9e ,co41 ,spr+field1 ,vt4--,ma*9]y4 ,curtis1 ,m>ble ,co41 ,worce/]1 ,mass4--,f9i%+ ma*9]y4 ,g5]al ,electric ,co41 #hd ,/ate ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4--,pictures1 %[+ textile ma*9]y 9 op]ation by motors4 ,hopk9s ,ma*9e ,works1 ,budgeton1 ,r4 ,i4--,f9i%+ ma*9]y4 ,knitt+ ,ma*9]y ,scott ,williams1 #hh ,pe>l ,/41 ,bo/on1 ,mass4 ,nye ,tudick ,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,*emicals1 ,dye/uffs1 & ,siz+ ,mat]ials ,! ,arabol ,mfg4 ,co41 #ajj ,williams ,/41 ,new ,york4--,siz+ mat]ials4 ,cassella ,color ,co41 #ahb ,front ,/41 ,new ,york4--,coal t> products1 dye/uffs1 & lit]ature4 ,arnold ,h(fman ,co41 ,provid5ce1 ,r4 ,i4--,siz+ mat]ials4 ,h4 ,a4 ,metz ,co41 #abb ,hudson ,/41 ,new ,york4--,dye/uffs & lit]ature4 ,badis*e ,co41 #abh ,duane ,/41 ,new ,york4--,dye/uffs & lit]ature4 ,,index ,acid te/1 #bci ,adelaide wool1 #aj ,adult]ations ( wool1 #hj1 #hb ,albatross1 #hc1 #agc ,alma1 #bai ,alpaca1 #a1 #ae1 #cd1 #hc ,am]ican cotton1 #aaj ,am]ican wool1 #c ,angora1 #cb1 #hc ,animal fib]s1 #a ,artificial fib]s1 #a ,artificial silk1 #a1 #bcj ,asbe/os1 #a1 #bcd ,a/rakhans1 #ae1 #hd ,au/ralian wool1 #c1 #h1 #i ,awn+1 #agc ,bal+ cotton1 #aag ,b&anna1 #hd ,b>ge1 #bai ,ba/ fib]s1 #aic ,bati/e1 #agc ,beam1 #ec ,beav] clo?1 #eb1 #hd ,b$=d cord1 #hd1 #agd ,beige1 #he ,b5gal9e1 #bai ,b]b]1 #bai ,b9d+s1 #hd ,blea*+ cotton1 #adh flax1 #aif ?read1 #ada ,bl5d+1 #aa1 #ca ,bombaz9e1 #hd1 #bbj ,bottany1 #hd ,b\cle1 #he ,b\rrette1 #agd ,brad=d sy/em ( sp9n+1 #dd ,br&+ %eep1 #g ,broadclo?1 #eb1 #he ,brocade1 #bai ,brocatel1 #bbj ,buckram1 #agd ,bunt+1 #he ,bur pick]1 #cj ,burl+1 #gb ,burr+1 #bi1 #cj ,cal5d]+1 #adi1 #aej ,calico1 #age ,cani*e1 #hf ,canvas1 #agg ,cape wools1 #aj ,c>boniz+1 #bi1 #cj ,c>d+ cotton1 #abf wool1 #c1 #d ,c>pet wools1 #c1 #d ,ca%m]e1 #he1 #hf goat1 #ac wool1 #ac1 #hg ,ca/or1 #hg ,*allis1 #hg ,*ambray1 #agg ,*>act]i/ics ( cotton clo?1 #aeb ( l95 clo?1 #aif ( wool5 clo?1 #ej ( wor/$ clo?1 #df ,*eese clo?1 #agh ,*5ille1 #bbj ,*eviot1 #cc1 #ce1 #eb1 #hg wool1 #ad ,*iffon1 #bbj ,*9a grass1 #bcb ,*9a silks1 #bbj ,*9*illa1 #eb1 #ih ,*9tz1 #agh ,*udah1 #hi ,clo?-rolls1 #ed ,clo?+ wool1 #c ,cocoons1 #bjc ,comb+ cotton1 #abg ,comb+ wool1 #d1 #ci ,combu/ion te/1 #bci ,con/ruction ( clo?1 #gj1 #ga ,corduroy1 #hi ,cte *eval1 #hi ,cotton1 #a1 #aje c>d+1 #abf comb+1 #abg draw+1 #abh f9i%+1 #adg flannel1 #agh gr[+ c\ntries1 #ajf pick]1 #abe sub/itutes1 #bcb v>ieties (1 #aje1 #ajf1 #aaa1 #aab y>ns1 #abe1 #acd ,cotton-g91 #aad-aaf ,c\nts ( y>n1 #i1 #di1 #ea ,c\pure1 #ij ,cov]t clo?1 #ij ,crabb+1 #gd ,cra%1 #agh ,creel1 #eb ,crpe1 #agi1 #bba ,crpe de ,*9e1 #bba ,crepon1 #agi ,cretonne1 #ij ,cr9ol9e1 #agi ,cro*et+1 #ef1 #bec ,cross-dy$1 #fe1 #fg1 #fh ,cyprian gold1 #bcd ,damask1 #agi ,d>k color$ fib]s1 #cc ,dead wool1 #bj ,dela9e wool1 #bb1 #ij ,d5im1 #agi ,diap] clo?1 #agi ,diff]5ce betwe5 lamb's wool & %eep's wool1 #bj ,diff]5ce betwe5 wool & hair1 #b ,diff]5ce betwe5 wool5 & wor/$ y>ns1 #ci ,dimity1 #agi ,doesk91 #eb1 #ij ,domet1 #ahj ,d\ble-clo?1 #eh1 #fb ,drap d't1 #ij ,dress fac$ fabrics1 #h ,drill1 #ahj ,duck1 #ahj ,du/+ op]ation1 #ce ,dye+1 #ff black silks1 #baj color$ silks1 #baj cotton1 #fg wools1 #fe y>ns1 #fh1 #bji ,ea/ ,indian cotton1 #ajg ,egyptian cotton1 #ajh ,ela/icity ( knitt$ textures1 #bec ,embroid]y silk1 #bjg ,empress clo?1 #ij ,ends1 #ec1 #ed ,engli% sy/em ( sp9n+1 #d1 #dj ,engli% wools1 #c ,eoli5ne1 #aha1 #bba p+l9e1 #ij ,etam9e1 #ia1 #aha ,extract-wool1 #a1 #cb1 #cg ,fancy goods1 #gi ,felt1 #ia ,felt+1 #b1 #d ,fib]s1 #a ,figure weav+1 #eh1 #fa1 #fb ,figur$ popl9s1 #bbe ,f9i%+1 #ga1 #aea ,f9i%+ hosi]y1 #afc ,flannel1 #eb1 #ia-ic ,flannelette1 #aha ,flax1 #a1 #abc prep>ation1 #aic-aie s\rces1 #aid1 #aih ,fleece1 #g ,flocks1 #a1 #cb1 #cg ,flor5t9e1 #ic ,fly frames1 #acj ,f\l>d1 #bba ,f\le1 #ic ,frame1 #ed ,fr5* sy/em ( sp9n+1 #d1 #dd ,frieze1 #eb1 #ic ,full blood1 #ai ,full grade cotton1 #aba ,full+1 #gc ,fu/ian1 #ahj ,galatea clo?1 #ahb ,gauge weav+1 #fc ,gauze1 #ahb ,gill boxes1 #db ,g+ham1 #ahb ,g9n+ cotton1 #aad ,glac1 #bbb ,gloria1 #id ,goat1 #a ,grades ( wool1 #ah ,granada1 #id ,great ,brita9 wools1 #ab ,gr5ad9e1 #id ,gr9d+ rags1 #cf ,gr\nd lace1 #afd ,hackl+1 #aie ,hair1 #b ,half blood1 #ai ,half-grades ( cotton1 #aba1 #abb ,h&-loom1 #ef ,h>ness1 #ee ,h$dles1 #ed ,hemp1 #a1 #aii ,h5rietta clo?1 #id ,hoggett wool1 #bj ,homespun1 #eh1 #id ,hop sack+1 #id ,hosi]y1 #aei ,hosi]y manufacture1 #aei-afc ,humidify+ cotton1 #abd ,hydro extractor1 #bh ,india silk1 #bjd1 #bbb ,indigo blue flannel1 #ib ,inspection ( clo?1 #abc1 #abd ,int]m$iate frame1 #acj ,iri% wools1 #ad ,italian clo?1 #ahc ,jaconet1 #ahc ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #ee ,japanese silk1 #bbb ,jeans1 #ie ,j]sey clo?1 #bbb ,jute1 #a uses (1 #bja ,kapok1 #bcj ,k]sey1 #ie ,k]seym]e1 #if ,khaki1 #ahc ,knitt+1 #bec cotton1 #aei f9i%+1 #afc frames1 #aed rib1 #aeh silk1 #aei /ripe1 #aei wool1 #c ,lace1 #afd1 #afe t]ms1 #aff-agb ,lamb's wool1 #ae1 #bj ,lappet-weav+1 #fc1 #fd ,lawn1 #ahc ,leice/] wool1 #ab ,l5o weav+1 #fc ,l9coln wool1 #ab ,l951 #aif ,l+]ie1 #ahd ,l9on1 #ahd ,l9sey woolsey1 #if ,long clo?1 #ahd manufacture (1 #aid1 #aie ,long or clo?+ wool1 #c ,loom1 #ed ,lu/] ( wool1 #bf ,mack9aw1 #ib ,madras1 #ahe ,manila hemp1 #bjj ,melrose1 #ig ,melton1 #ig ,meltonette1 #ig ,m5d+1 #gb ,m]c]iz+1 #aea ,m]9o1 #b1 #c1 #ah1 #ai1 #ig ,metallic ?reads1 #a1 #bcd ,meteor1 #bbb ,mexican ,%eep1 #d ,mill+1 #h ,m9]al fib]s1 #a ,mohair1 #a1 #ah1 #cd1 #ig ,moire1 #bbc ,moi/ure conta9$ 9 cotton1 #abc ,montagnac1 #ih ,montevideo1 #aa ,mordant1 #fi ,more51 #ahf ,mozambique1 #bbc ,mule sp9n+1 #acd ,mull1 #ahf ,mumm]y1 #ahf ,mungo1 #a1 #aj1 #cb1 #cd me?od ( mak+1 #cb ,musl91 #ahf ,na9sook1 #ahf ,naph?a1 #bf ,napp+1 #ge ,navy twill flannel1 #ib ,nett+1 #bec ,new ,zeal& wool1 #aj ,noils1 #a1 #cb1 #dj ,norfolkd[n wool1 #ad ,oil+ rags1 #ce ,olive oil1 #bi ,org&ie1 #ahf ,organz9e1 #bbc ,orleans1 #ih ,osnaburg1 #ahf ,panama clo?1 #ih ,panne velvet1 #bbc ,peau de soie1 #bbc ,pelts1 #bj ,p]cale1 #ahh ,p]cal9e1 #ahh ,p]*+1 #gb ,p]uvian %eep1 #ae1 #cb ,pick1 #ed ,piece-dye+1 #fe ,pile-weave1 #fb1 #fc ,pill[-lace1 #afe ,p9eapple fib]1 #bcc ,piqu1 #ahh ,pla9 weave1 #eh ,plant+ cotton1 #aaj ,plumetis1 #aij ,plu%es1 #ae1 #bbd ,pongee1 #bbd ,popel9e1 #bbd ,popl91 #aij ,port ,philip wool1 #i ,press+ ma*9e1 #gf ,pr9t+ textiles1 #fe ,prunella1 #ih ,pull$ wool1 #bj ,qu>t] blood1 #ai ,ramie1 #bcb ,raw silk1 #bjf ,reel+ silk1 #bje ,remanufactur$ mat]ial1 #a1 #cb ,rep1 #aij ,rib "w 9 knitt+1 #aeh ,ribbons1 #bae ,r+ sp9n+1 #acd ,russian hemp1 #aii ,russian wool1 #ab ,sack+1 #ii ,sangli]1 #ii ,s>s5et1 #bbe ,sat91 #bbe weav+1 #eh ,sat9e1 #aij ,saxony wool1 #h ,sc\r1 #bg ,scrim1 #aij ,scut*+1 #aie ,sea ,isl& cotton1 #aji ,seam+ rags1 #ce ,seamless hosi]y1 #afa ,seba/opol1 #ii ,s]ges1 #ii ,sew+ silk1 #bjg ,%ak] flannel1 #ic ,%awls1 #cc ,%eep %e>+1 #e1 #f1 #g ,%etl& wool1 #ad ,%oddy1 #a1 #aj1 #cb1 #cd1 #aja ,%ort wools1 #c ,%r9k+ ( wool1 #b1 #c ,%rop%ir$[n wool1 #ac ,%uttle1 #ee ,sicilian1 #aja ,silesia1 #aij ,silesian wool1 #h ,silk1 #a cotton1 #bcj dye+1 #baj f9i%+1 #bah v>ieties (1 #bjg w>p flannel1 #ib wa/e1 #bjg ,sisal hemp1 #bjj ,size ( y>n1 #i1 #di1 #ea ,siz+1 #ec ,slag wool1 #a1 #bcd ,sla%]1 #ec ,sliv]1 #ci ,slubb]1 #acj1 #aca ,soleil1 #bbg ,s\ffle1 #aia ,s\? ,am]ican wool1 #aa ,s\?d[n wools1 #ac ,sp9n+1 #d1 #dj1 #dd1 #ej1 #acd ,spool]1 #ec ,spun glass1 #bcc fib]s1 #bcc ,spun numb]s1 #bji ,spun silk1 #bjh ,/aple goods1 #gi ,/>*+ cotton1 #adi ,/ripe knitt+1 #aei ,/ructure ( wool1 #a1 #b ,/yles1 #gj ,suffolkd[n wool1 #ad ,sultane1 #aja ,sup]f9es1 #h ,swiss musl91 #aia ,sydney wools1 #i ,tabby velvet1 #bbh ,taffeta1 #bbg ,tamise1 #aja ,tape1 #aia ,t>letan1 #aia ,t>tans1 #aja ,teas]1 #ca ,t5t]+1 #gd ,t]ry clo?1 #aia ,t]ry popl91 #bbe ,te/ = animal fib]1 #bci artificial silk f silk1 #bca cotton f l951 #bdj d5sity ( a fabric1 #bci dress+1 #bda fa/ness aga9/ ra91 #bdc fa/ness "u friction1 #bdb fa/ness to wea!r1 light1 & air1 #bdd l951 #bdj p]man5ce ( dyes1 #bdb resi/ance to p]spiration1 #bdc resi/ance to /reet mud & du/1 #bdc %oddy1 #bda silk f wool1 #bdj wa/+ fa/ness1 #bdb ,te/+ con/itu5ts ( fill+1 #bci con/itu5ts ( w>p1 #bci c\nt ( w>p1 #bch c\nt ( w>p & fill+ ?reads1 #bch ela/icity ( fabric1 #bcg = %r9kage1 #bci piece-dy$ fabric1 #fi /r5g? 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= ,girls & ,boys4 ,physiology & hygi5e = int]m$iate grades4 ,illu/rat$4 #de c5ts4 ,br[n's ,heal? 9 ! ,home4 ,illu/rat$4 #ej c5ts4 ,cl>k's ,practical ,me?ods 9 ,microscopy4 ,gives 9 detail descriptions ( me?ods t w lead ! c>eful work] to successful results4 ,illus4 #a4jj ,cl>ke's ,a/ronomical ,lant]n4 ,int5d$ to famili>ize /ud5ts ) ! con/ellations by comp>+ !m ) facsimiles on ! lant]n face4 ,) sev5te5 slides1 giv+ tw5ty-two con/ellations4 #d4ej4 ,cl>ke's ,h[ to ,f9d ! ,/>s4 ,accompanies ! above & helps to an acqua9tance ) ! con/ellations4 ,pap]4 #ae c5ts4 ,colton's ,elem5t>y ,physiology & ,hygi5e4 ,= gramm> grades4 #cag pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #fj c5ts4 ,eck/orm's ,! ,bird ,book4 ,! natural hi/ory ( birds1 ) directions = obs]vation & sugge/ions = /udy4 #cja pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #fj c5ts4 ,guides = ,sci5ce ,tea*+4 ,tea*]s' aids = in/ruction 9 ,natural ,hi/ory4 ,i4 ,hyatt's ,ab\t ,pebbles4 #bf pages4 ,pap]4 #aj cts4 ,,ii4 ,goodale's ,a ,few ,common ,plants4 #fa pages4 ,pap]4 #bj cts4 ,,iii4 ,hyatt's ,comm]cial & o!r ,sponges4 ,illu/rat$4 #dc pages4 ,pap]4 #bj cts4 ,,iv4 ,agassiz's ,fir/ ,lesson 9 ,natural ,hi/ory4 ,illus4 #fd pages4 ,pap]4 #be cts4 ,v4 ,hyatt's ,corals & ,e*9od]ms4 ,illu/rat$4 #cb pages4 ,pap]4 #cj cts4 ,,vi4 ,hyatt's ,mollusca4 ,illu/rat$4 #fe pages4 ,pap]4 #cj cts4 ,,vii4 ,hyatt's ,worms & ,cru/acea4 ,illu/rat$4 #fh pages4 ,pap]4 #cj cts4 ,,xii4 ,crosby's ,common ,m9]als & ,rocks4 ,illu/rat$4 #bjj pages4 ,pap]4 #dj cts4 ,clo?1 #fj cts4 ,,xiii4 ,ri*>ds's ,fir/ ,lessons 9 ,m9]als4 #ej pages4 ,pap]4 #aj cts4 ,,xiv4 ,b[dit*'s ,physiology4 #eh pages4 ,pap]4 #bj cts4 ,,xv4 ,clapp's #cf ,obs]vation ,lessons 9 ,m9]als4 #hj pages4 ,pap]4 #cj cts4 ,,xvi4 ,ph5ix's ,lessons 9 ,*emi/ry4 #bj cts4 ,pupils' ,note-book to accompany ,no4 #ae4 #aj cts4 ,hoag's ,heal? ,/udies4 ,practical hygi5e = gramm> grades4 ,clo?4 ,illu/rat$4 #ge c5ts4 ,rice's ,sci5ce ,tea*+ 9 ! ,s*ool4 ,) a c\rse ( in/ruction 9 sci5ce = ! l[] grades4 #df pages4 ,pap]4 #be c5ts4 ,ricks's ,natural ,hi/ory ,object ,lessons4 ,in=mation on plants & _! products1 on animals & _! uses1 & gives specim5 lessons4 #a4ej4 ,ricks's ,object ,lessons & ,h[ to ,give ,!m4--,vol4 ,,ii4 ,lessons on elem5t>y sci5ce = gramm> & int]m$iate grades4 #ij c5ts4 ,scott's ,nature ,/udy & ! ,*ild4 ,a manual = tea*]s ) outl9es ( lessons & c\rses1 detail$ /udies ( animal & plant life1 & *apt]s on me?ods & ! relation ( nature /udy to expression4 #a4ej4 ,sev]'s ,elem5ts ( ,agriculture4 ,= gramm> grades4 ,illu/rat$4 #ej c5ts4 ,%al]'s ,fir/ ,book 9 ,geology4 ,a helpful introduction to ! /udy ( mod]n text-books 9 geography4 ,illu/rat$4 ,clo?1 #fj c5ts4 ,bo>ds1 #de c5ts4 ,spe>'s ,leaves & ,fl[]s4 ,an elem5t>y botany = pupils "u twelve4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,we$'s ,f>m ,fri5ds & ,f>m ,foes4 ,an elem5t>y text-book on we$s & insects4 ,clo?4 ,illu/rat$4 #ij c5ts4 ,wright's ,seaside & ,wayside ,nature ,read]1 ,no4 #d4 ,elem5t>y lessons 9 geology1 a/ronomy1 _w life1 etc4 ,illu/rat$4 #ej c5ts4 ,see also our li/ ( books 9 ,sci5ce4 ,d4 ,c4 ,,hea? 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,,co41 ,publi%]s1 ,bo/on1 ,new ,york1 ,*icago ,ma!matics4 ,an?ony & ,a%ley's ,descriptive ,geometry4 #b4jj4 ,b>ton's ,plane ,survey+4 ,) complete tables4 #a4ej4 ,b>ton's ,!ory ,( ,equations4 ,a treatise = college classes4 #a4ej4 ,bau] & ,brooke's ,trigonometry4 ,plane & sph]ical4 #a4ej4 ,b[s]'s ,college ,algebra4 ,a full treatm5t ( elem5t>y & advanc$ topics4 #a4ej4 ,b[s]'s ,elem5ts ( ,plane & ,sph]ical ,trigonometry4 #ij cts42 ) tables1 #a4dj4 ,b[s]'s ,treatise on ,plane & ,sph]ical ,trigonometry4 #a4ej4 ,b[s]'s ,five-,place ,log>i?mic ,tables4 #ej cts4 ,c&y's ,plane & ,solid ,analytic ,geometry4 #a4ej4 ,) supplem5t1 #b4jj4 ,coh5's ,diff]5tial ,equations4 #b4jj4 ,coh5's ,introduction to ! ,lie ,!ory4 #b4jj4 ,f9e's ,numb] ,sy/em 9 ,algebra4 ,!oretical & hi/orical4 #a4jj4 ,gilb]t's ,algebra ,lessons4 ,?ree numb]s3 ,no4 #a1 to ,fractional ,equations2 ,no4 #b1 ?r\gh ,quadratic ,equations2 ,no4 #c1 ,high] ,algebra4 ,ea* numb]1 p] doz51 #a4dd4 ,hopk9s's ,plane ,geometry4 ,foll[s ! inductive me?od4 #ge cts4 ,lyman's ,geometry ,ex]cises4 ,supplem5t>y "w = drill4 ,p] doz51 #a4fj4 ,mc,curdy's ,ex]cise ,book 9 ,algebra4 ,a ?or\gh drill book4 #fj cts4 ,ni*ols's ,analytic ,geometry4 ,a treatise = college c\rses4 #a4be4 ,ni*ols's ,calculus4 ,diff]5tial & ,integral4 #b4jj4 ,osborne's ,diff]5tial & ,integral ,calculus4 ,revis$4 #b4jj4 ,pet]son & ,baldw9's ,problems 9 ,algebra4 ,= texts & reviews4 #cj cts4 ,robb9s's ,survey+ & ,navigation4 ,a brief & practical treatise4 #ej cts4 ,waldo's ,descriptive ,geometry4 ,conta9s a l>ge numb] ( problems4 #hj cts4 ,well's ,academic ,ari?metic4 ,) or )\t answ]s4 #a4jj4 ,wells & ,h>t's ,fir/ ,ye> ,algebra4 #ij cts4 ,wells's ,algebra = ,second>y ,s*ools4 #a4bj4 ,wells's ,text-,book 9 ,algebra4 ,a maximum elem5t>y c\rse4 #a4dj4 ,wells's ,ess5tials ( ,algebra4 ,= second>y s*ools4 #a4aj4 ,wells's ,academic ,algebra4 ,) or )\t answ]s4 #a4jh4 ,wells's ,new ,high] ,algebra4 ,= s*ools & colleges4 #a4cb4 ,wells's ,univ]sity ,algebra4 ,octavo4 #a4ej4 ,wells's ,college ,algebra4 #a4ej4 ,"p ,,ii1 beg9n+ ) quadratics4 #a4cb4 ,wells's ,advanc$ ,c\rse 9 ,algebra4 #a4ej4 ,wells's ,new ,geometry4 #a4be4 ,,plane1 #ge cts4 ,,solid1 #ge cts4 ,wells's ,ess5tials ( ,geometry4 #a4be4 ,,plane1 #ge cts4 ,,solid1 #ge cts4 ,wells's ,new ,plane & ,sph]ical ,trigonometry4 ,= colleges & te*nical s*ools4 #a4jj4 ,) six-place tables1 #a4be4 ,) ,robb9s's ,survey+ & ,navigation1 #a4ej4 ,wells's ,complete ,trigonometry4 ,plane & ,sph]ical4 #ij cts4 ,) tables1 #a4jh4 ,,plane1 b\nd sep>ately1 #ge cts4 ,wells's ,new ,six-,place ,log>i?mic ,tables4 #fj cts4 ,wells's ,f\r-,place ,tables4 #be cts4 ,wright's ,ex]cises 9 ,concrete ,geometry4 #ce cts4 ,= ,ari?metics see our li/ ( books 9 ,elem5t>y ,ma!matics4 ,d4 ,c4 ,,hea? ,,co41 ,publi%]s1 ,bo/on1 ,new ,york1 ,*icago ,draw+ & ,manual ,tra9+4 ,?ompson's ,new ,%ort ,c\rse 9 ,draw+4 ,a practical1 well-balanc$ sy/em1 bas$ on correct pr9ciples4 ,c be taught by ! ord9>y tea*] & le>n$ by ! ord9>y pupil4 ,books ,i-,,iv1 #f #i in*es1 p] doz51 #a4bj4 ,books ,v-,,viii1 #i #ab in*es1 p] doz51 #a4ge4 ,manual to ,books ,i-,,iv1 #dj cts4 ,manual to ,books ,v-,,viii1 #dj cts4 ,two-,book ,c\rse3 ,book ,a1 p] doz51 #a4bj2 ,book ,b1 p] doz51 #a4ge2 ,manual1 #dj cts4 ,?ompson's /hetic ,s]ies ( ,draw+4 ,?is s]ies includes ! /udy ( ,hi/orical ,ornam5t & ,decorative ,design4 ,book ,i treats ( ,egyptian art2 ,book ,,ii1 ,greek2 ,book ,,iii1 ,roman2 ,book ,,iv1 ,byzant9e2 ,book ,v1 ,moori%2 ,book ,,vi1 ,go?ic4 ,p] doz51 #a4ej4 ,manual1 #fj c5ts4 ,?ompson's ,educational & ,indu/rial ,draw+4 ,prim>y ,free-,h& ,s]ies 7,nos4 #a-d74 ,ea* ,no41 p] doz41 #a4jj4 ,manual1 #dj cts4 ,advanc$ ,free-,h& ,s]ies 7,nos4 #e-h47 ,ea* ,no41 p] doz41 #a4ej4 ,model & ,object ,s]ies 7,nos4 #a-c74 ,ea* ,no41 p] doz41 #a4ge4 ,manual1 #ce cts4 ,me*anical ,s]ies 7,nos4 #a-f74 ,ea* ,no41 p] doz41 #b4jj4 ,manual1 #ge cts4 ,?ompson's ,manual ,tra9+ ,no4 #a4 ,clay model+1 /ick lay+1 pap] fold+1 color & con/ruction ( geometrical solids4 ,illus4 #ff pp4 #be cts4 ,?ompson's ,manual ,tra9+ ,no4 #b4 ,me*anical draw+1 clay model+1 color1 wood c>v+4 ,illus4 #gj pp4 #be cts4 ,?ompson's ,draw+ ,tablets4 ,f\r ,tablets1 ) draw+ ex]cises & practice pap]1 = use 9 ! e>li] grades4 ,ea* ,no41 p] doz41 #a4bj4 ,draw+ ,models4 ,individual sets & class sets ( models are made to accompany sev]al ( ! diff]5t s]ies 9 ! ,?ompson ,draw+ ,c\rses4 ,descriptive circul>s free on reque/4 ,an?ony's ,me*anical ,draw+4 #ih pages ( text1 & #cb fold+ plates1 #a4ej4 ,an?ony's ,ma*9e ,draw+4 #fe pages ( text1 & #ah fold+ plates4 #a4ej4 ,an?ony's ,ess5tials ( ,ge>+4 #hd pages ( text1 & #ae fold+ plates1 #a4ej4 ,daniels's ,freeh& ,lett]+4 #cd pages ( text1 & #ac fold+ plates4 #ge cts4 ,johnson's ,lessons 9 ,ne$lework4 ,gives1 ) illu/rations1 full directions = "w dur+ six grades4 #aag pages4 ,squ>e #hvo4 ,clo?1 #a4jj4 ,bo>ds1 #fj cts4 ,lunt's ,bru%work = ,k9d]g>t5 & ,prim>y ,s*ools4 ,eighte5 lesson c>ds 9 colors1 ) tea*]'s pamphlet1 9 envelope4 #be cts4 ,seidel's ,indu/rial ,in/ruction 7,smi?74 ,a refutation ( all objections rais$ aga9/ indu/rial in/ruction4 #agj pages1 #ij c5ts4 ,waldo's ,descriptive ,geometry4 ,a l>ge numb] ( problems sy/ematically arrang$1 ) sugge/ions4 #he pages4 #hj c5ts4 ,:itak]'s ,h[ to use ,woodwork+ ,tools4 ,lessons 9 ! uses ( ! hamm]1 knife1 plane1 rule1 squ>e1 gauge1 *isel1 saw & aug]4 #ajd pages4 #fj c5ts4 ,woodw>d's ,manual ,tra9+ ,s*ool4 ,its aims1 me?ods & results2 ) detail$ c\rses ( in/ruction 9 %op-"w4 ,illu/rat$4 #cgd pages4 ,octavo4 #b4jj4 ,s5t po/paid by mail on receipt ( price4 ,d4 ,c4 ,,hea? ,,co41 ,publi%]s1 ,bo/on1 ,new ,york1 ,*icago ,high] ,engli%4 ,bray's ,hi/ory ( ,engli% ,critical ,t]ms4 ,a vocabul>y ( #adjj critical t]ms us$ 9 lit]ature & art1 ) critical & hi/orical data = _! /udy1 #a4jj4 ,cook's ,judi?4 ,) introduction1 translation & gloss>y4 ,octavo4 #agj pages4 #a4jj4 ,esp5%ade's ,ess5tials ( ,composition & ,rhetoric4 ,a work+ text-book = high] s*ools & colleges4 #a4jj4 ,hall's ,be[ulf4 ,a metrical translation ( ?is anci5t epic4 ,octavo4 ,clo?1 #ge c5ts4 ,pap]1 #cj c5ts4 ,kluge & ,lutz's ,engli% ,etymology4 ,a select gloss>y = use 9 ! /udy ( hi/orical gramm>4 #ge c5ts4 ,lewis's ,inductive ,rhetoric4 ,= s*ools & colleges4 #ij c5ts4 ,mac,ewan's ,! ,ess5tials ( ,argum5tation4 ,a sy/ematic discussion ( pr9ciples1 ) illu/rative extracts2 full analysis ( sev]al ma/]pieces1 & a li/ ( propositions = debate4 #a4ab4 ,mac,ewan's ,! ,ess5tials ( ! ,engli% ,s5t5ce4 ,pres5ts a review ( ! ess5tials ( gramm> & bridges ! transition to rhetoric4 #ge c5ts4 ,meiklejohn's ,! ,engli% ,language4 ,"p ,i--,engli% ,gramm>2 ,"p ,,ii--,composition & ,v]sification2 ,"p ,,iii--,hi/ory ( ! ,engli% ,language2 ,"p ,,iv--,hi/ory ( ,engli% ,lit]ature4 #a4be4 ,meiklejohn's ,engli% ,gramm>4 ,conta9s ,p>ts ,i & ,,ii ( ,meiklejohn's ,! ,engli% ,language1 ) ex]cises4 #hj c5ts4 ,o',conor's ,rhetoric & ,oratory4 ,a manual ( precepts & pr9ciples1 ) ma/]pieces = analysis & /udy4 #a4ae4 ,pe>son's ,! ,pr9ciples ( ,composition4 ,beg9s ) ! composition z a :ole4 ,p>agraphs1 s5t5ces & words are treat$ lat]1 & 9 ?is ord]4 #ej c5ts4 ,smi?'s ,! ,writ+ ( ! ,%ort ,/ory4 ,an analytical /udy4 #be c5ts4 ,/rang's ,ex]cises 9 ,engli%4 ,examples 9 ,syntax1 ,accid5ce1 & ,/yle1 = criticism & correction4 ,new edition1 revis$ & enl>g$4 #de c5ts4 ,:itcomb's ,! ,/udy ,( a ,novel4 ,analytic & syn!tic "w = college classes4 ,william's ,composition & ,rhetoric4 ,concise1 practical1 & ?or\gh1 ) little !ory & mu* practice4 #ij c5ts4 ,monographs on ,engli%4 ,b[5's ,hi/orical ,/udy ( ! ,o-v[el4 ,clo?4 #aji pp4 #a4be ,g5ung's ,/udy ( ,rhetoric 9 ! ,college ,c\rse4 ,pap]4 #cb pp4 4#be ,hempl's ,*auc]'s ,pronunciation4 ,/iff ,pap]4 #ci pp4 4#ej ,huffcut's ,engli% 9 ! ,prep>atory ,s*ool4 ,pap]4 #bh pp4 4#be ,woodw>d's ,/udy ( ,engli%4 ,pap]4 #be pp4 4#be ,see also our li/ ( books 9 ,elem5t>y ,engli%1 ,engli% ,lit]ature & ,engli% ,classics4 ,d4 ,c4 ,,hea? ,,co41 ,publi%]s1 ,bo/on1 ,new ,york1 ,*icago ,hea?'s ,engli% ,classics4 ,addison's ,sir ,rog] de ,cov]ley ,pap]s4 ,edit$ by ,w4 ,h4 ,,hudson4 ,clo?4 #bcb pages4 ,n9e full-page illu/rations & two maps4 #ce c5ts4 ,burke's ,spee* on ,conciliation ) ,am]ica4 ,edit$ by ,a4 ,j4 ,,george1 ,ma/] 9 ! ,newton 7,mass47 ,high ,s*ool4 ,clo?4 #aai pages4 #bj c5ts4 ,c>lyle's ,essay on ,burns4 ,edit$1 ) introduction & notes1 by ,,&rew ,j4 ,,george4 ,clo?4 #aei pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,col]idge's ,rime ( ! ,anci5t ,m>9]4 ,edit$ by ,,&rew ,j4 ,,george4 ,clo?4 #if pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #bj c5ts4 ,coop]'s ,la/ ( ! ,mohicans4 ,edit$ by ,j4 ,g4 ,,wight1 ,pr9cipal ,girls' ,high ,s*ool1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,clo?4 ,illu/rat$4 #fei pages4 #ej c5ts4 ,de ,qu9cey's ,flight ( a ,t>t> ,tribe4 ,edit$ by ,g4 ,a4 ,,wau*ope1 ,pr(essor 9 ! ,univ]sity ( ,s\? ,c>ol9a4 ,clo?4 #aab pages4 #be c5ts4 ,dryd5's ,palamon & ,arcite4 ,edit$ by ,,william ,h4 ,,craw%aw1 ,pr(essor 9 ,colgate ,univ]sity4 ,clo?4 #aeh pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,george ,eliot's ,silas ,m>n]4 ,edit$ by ,g4 ,a4 ,,wau*ope1 ,pr(essor 9 ! ,univ]sity ( ,s\? ,c>ol9a4 ,clo?4 #bhh pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #ce c5ts4 ,goldsmi?'s ,vic> ( ,wakefield4 ,) introduction & notes by ,w4 ,h4 ,,hudson4 ,clo?4 #cjj pages4 ,sev5te5 illu/rations by ,c4 ,e4 ,brock4 #ej c5ts4 ,irv+'s ,life ( ,goldsmi?4 ,edit$ by ,h4 ,e4 ,,cobl5tz1 ,s\? ,division ,high ,s*ool1 ,milwaukee4 ,clo?4 #cbh pages4 ,maps & illu/rations4 #ce c5ts4 ,macaulay's ,essay on ,milton4 ,edit$ by ,,alb]t ,,p]ry ,,walk]1 ,ma/] 9 ! ,engli% ,high ,s*ool1 ,bo/on4 ,clo?4 #adf pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,macaulay's ,essay on ,addison4 ,edit$ by ,,alb]t ,,p]ry ,,walk]4 ,clo?4 #aib pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,macaulay's ,life ( ,johnson4 ,edit$ by ,,alb]t ,,p]ry ,,walk]4 ,clo?4 #abb pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,milton's ,p>adise ,lo/4 ,books i & ii4 ,edit$ by ,,alb]t ,,p]ry ,,walk]4 ,clo?4 #ahh pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,milton's ,m9or ,poems4 ,edit$ by ,,alb]t ,,p]ry ,,walk]4 ,clo?4 #aij pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,pope's ,translation ,( ! ,iliad4 ,books i1 vi1 xxii1 & xxiv4 ,edit$ by ,,paul ,,%orey1 ,pr(essor 9 ! ,univ4 ( ,*icago4 ,clo?4 #agb pages4 ,illus4 #be c5ts4 ,scott's ,ivanhoe4 ,edit$ by ,,port] ,,l&] ,,maccl9tock4 ,clo?4 #eef pages4 ,sev5te5 full-page illu/rations by ,c4 ,e ,brock4 #ej c5ts4 ,scott's ,lady ( ! ,lake4 ,edit$ by ,l4 ,,dupont ,,syle1 ,pr(essor 9 ! ,univ]sity ( ,cali=nia4 ,clo?4 #baf pages4 ,illus4 & map4 #ce c5ts4 ,%akespe>e4 ,see ! ,ard5 ,%akespe>e4 ,p] vol41 #be c5ts4 ,t5nyson's ,eno* ,ard51 & ! two ,locksley ,halls4 ,edit$ by ,,calv9 ,s4 ,,br[n1 ,univ]sity ( ,colorado4 ,clo?4 #afh pages4 #be c5ts4 ,t5nyson's ,idylls ( ! ,k+4 ,f\r idylls1 edit$ by ,,ar?ur ,,beatty1 ,univ]sity ( ,wiscons94 ,clo?4 #aij pages4 ,illus4 & map4 #be c5ts4 ,t5nyson's ,! ,pr9cess4 ,) introduction & notes by ,,&rew ,j4 ,,george4 ,clo?4 #adh pages4 ,illu/rat$4 #be c5ts4 ,web/]'s ,fir/ ,bunk] ,hill ,oration4 ,) introduction & notes by ,,&rew ,j4 ,,george4 ,clo?4 #ee pages4 #bj c5ts4 ,d4 ,c4 ,,hea? 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