,,vegetable ,,dyes ,be+ a ,book ( ,recipes & ,o!r ,in=mation ,useful to ! ,dy] by ,,e!l ,m4 ,,mairet ,fab] & ,fab] ,ltd #bd ,russell ,squ>e ,london ,fir/ publi%$ 9 ,mcmxvi by ! ,dit*l+ ,press ,repr9t$1 = ! six? "t ,april ,mcmxxxviii & publi%$ by ,fab] & ,fab] ,limit$ #bd ,russell ,squ>e1 ,london ,pr9t$ at ! ,dit*l+ ,press1 ,dit*l+ ,all rights res]v$ ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,i4 ,wool1 ,silk1 ,cotton & ,l95 #a ,,ii4 ,mordants #f ,,iii4 ,briti% ,dye ,plants #aa ,,iv4 ,! ,li*5 ,dyes #af ,v4 ,blue #bd ,,vi4 ,r$ #ca ,,vii4 ,yell[ #ce ,,viii4 ,br[n & ,black #dj ,,ix4 ,gre5 #dc ,x4 ,! ,dye+ ( ,cotton #df ,,xi4 ,! ,dye+ ( ,silk #ef ,gloss>y #fj ,bibliography #fc ,index #fe ,,*apt] ,i ,,wool ,,silk ,,cotton ,,& ,,l95 ,,wools are ( v>i\s k9ds3-- ,highl&1 ,wel% & ,iri% wools are f small %eep1 n f> remov$ f ! wild /ate1 ) irregul> %ort /apl$ fleeces4 ,=e/ or ,m\nta9 %eep 7,h]dwick1 ,exmoor1 ,*eviot1 ,blackfac$1 ,lime/one7 h bett] wool1 especially ! ,*eviot1 :i* is v ?ick & good = mill+4 ,anci5t ,upl&1 su* z ,s\? ,d[n1 are small] %eep ?an ! la/ nam$1 b ! wool is s(t] & f9]4 ,long ,wooll$ %eep1 7,l9colns1 ,leice/]7 ) long /aple wool 7record l5g?1 #cf47 & fleeces weigh+ up to #ab lbs4 ,! ,leice/] fleece is s(t]1 f9] & bett] ?an ,l9coln4 ,to ! end ( ! #ah? c5tury ,spani% wool 0 ! f9e/ & be/ wool 9 ! _w4 ,spani% %eep h s9ce be5 introduc$ into v>i\s c\ntries1 su* z ,saxony1 ,au/ralia1 ,cape ,colony1 ,new ,zeal&2 & "s ( ! be/ wools n[ come f ! ,colonies4 ,alpaca1 ,vicuna & ,llama wools are f diff]5t species ( ,am]ican goats4 ,mohair f ! ,angora goat ( ,asia ,m9or4 ,ka%mir ,wool f ! ,?ibetan goat4 ,camel hair1 ! s(t "u wool ( ! camel1 :i* is %$ annually4 ,! col\r ( wool v>ies f :ite to a v d>k br[n black1 ) all %ades ( fawn1 grey & br[n 9 betwe54 ,! natural col\rs are n absolutely fa/ to light b t5d to blea* slightly ) ! sun4 ,! pr9cipal fleeces are3 ,lambs1 #c to #f mon?s gr[?1 ! f9e/1 s(te/ & mo/ ela/ic wool4 ,hogs & ,tegs3 ! fir/ %e>+ ( %eep t h n be5 %orn z lambs4 ,we!rs3 all clips succe$+ ! fir/ %e>+4 ,wool comes into ! m>ket 9 ! foll[+ condition4 #a4 ,9 ! grease1 n hav+ be5 wa%$ & conta9+ all ! impurities4 #b4 ,wa%$1 ) "s ( ! grease remov$ & fairly clean4 #c4 ,sc\r$1 ?or\ghly clean$ & all grease remov$4 ,wool c be dy$ ei!r 9 ! fleece1 9 ! y>n1 or 9 ! wov5 clo?4 ,raw wool always conta9s a c]ta9 am\nt ( natural grease4 ,?is %\ld n be wa%$ out until x is ready = dye+1 z ! grease keeps ! mo? out to a consid]able ext5t4 ,h& spun wool is g5]ally spun 9 ! oil to facilitate sp9n+4 ,all grease & oil mu/ be sc\r$ out be=e dye+ is begun1 & ?is mu/ be done v ?or\ghly or ! wool w n take ! col\r4 ,,wat] ,a con/ant supply ( clean s(t wat] is an absolute necessity = ! dy]4 ,ra9 wat] %\ld be collect$ z mu* z possible1 z ?is is ! be/ wat] to use4 ,! dye h\se %\ld be by a riv] or /ream1 s t ! dy] c wa% ) a cont9u\s supply4 ,spr+ & well wat] is1 z a rule1 h>d1 & %\ld be avoid$4 ,9 wa%+1 z well z 9 dye+1 h>d wat] is injuri\s = wool4 ,x ru9s ! brilliancy ( ! col\r1 & prev5ts ! dye+ ( "s col\rs4 ,tempor>y h>dness c be ov]come by boil+ ! wat] 7#bj to #cj m9utes7 be=e us+4 ,an old me?od ( purify+ wat]1 :i* is /ill us$ by "s silk & wool sc\r]s1 is to boil ! wat] ) a little soap1 skimm+ (f ! surface z x boils4 ,9 _m cases x is suffici5t to add a little acetic acid to ! wat]4 ,,to ,,wa% ,,wool ,9 a ba? conta9+ #aj gallons ( w>m wat] add #d fluid ounces ( ammonia =t1 4#hhj1 #a lb4 soda1 & #b oz4 s(t soap1 7pota% soap74 ,/ir well until all is dissolv$4 ,dip ! wool 9 & leave = #b m9utes1 !n squeeze g5tly & wa% 9 w>m wat] until q cle>4 ,or to #aj gallons ( wat] add #f oz4 ammonia & #c oz4 s(t soap4 ,! wat] %\ld nev] be above #adj deg4,f4 & all ! wa%+ wat] %\ld be ( ab\t ! same temp]ature4 ,fleece may be wa%$ 9 ! same way1 b great c>e %\ld be tak5 n to felt ! wool--! less squeez+ ! bett]4 ,!re are f\r pr9cipal me?ods ( dye+ wool4 #a/4--,! wool is boil$ fir/ ) ! mordant & !n 9 a fre% ba? ) ! dye4 #bnd4--,! wool is boil$ fir/ ) ! dye1 & :5 x has absorb$ z mu* ( ! col\r z possible ! mordant is add$ to ! same ba?1 ?us fix+ ! col\r4 ,a sep>ate ba? c be us$ = ea* ( ^! processes1 9 :i* case ea* ba? c be repl5i%$ & us$ aga9 = a fre% lot ( wool4 #crd4--,! wool is boil$ ) ! mordant & dye 9 ! same ba? toge!r4 ,! col\r1 z a rule1 is n s fa/ & good z ) a sep>ate ba?1 ?\gh ) "s dyes a bright] col\r is obta9$4 #d?4--,! wool is mordant$1 !n dy$1 !n mordant$ aga94 ,?is me?od is adopt$ to ensure an extremely fa/ col\r4 ,! mordant %\ld be us$ r sp>+ly4 ,,silk ,!re are two k9ds ( silk 7#a7 raw silk 7reel$ silk1 ?r[n silk1 drawn silk71 & 7#b7 wa/e silk or spun silk4 ,raw silk is t directly tak5 f ! cocoons4 ,wa/e silk is ! silk f cocoons t are damag$ 9 "s way s t !y _c be reel$ (f direct4 ,x is1 !re=e1 c>d$ & spun1 l wool or cotton4 ,silk 9 ! raw /ate is cov]$ ) a silk gum :i* mu/ be boil$ (f be=e dye+ is begun4 ,x is ti$ up 9 canvas bags & boil$ up 9 a /rong solution ( soap = ?ree or f\r h\rs until all ! gum is boil$ (f4 ,if x is a yell[ gum1 ! silk is wr\ght fir/ 9 a solution ( s(t soap at a temp]ature j bel[ boil+ po9t = ab\t an h\r1 !n put into bags & boil$4 ,aft] boil+1 ! soap is well wa%$ out4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! aff9ity ( silk = dyes is simil> b weak] 9 "* to t ( wool4 ,! g5]al me?od = dye+ is ! same z = wool1 except1 9 mo/ cases1 l[] temp]atures are us$ 9 ! mordant+4 ,9 "s cases1 soak+ 9 a cold conc5trat$ solution ( ! mordant is suffici5t4 ,! dye+ ( "s col\rs is also at l[ temp]ature4 ,,cotton ,cotton is ! d[n surr\nd+ ! se$s 9 pods ( c]ta9 %rubs & trees gr[+ 9 tropical & semi-tropical c\ntries4 ,fir/ introduc$ into ,europe by ! ,s>ac5s1 x 0 manufactur$ into clo? 9 ,spa9 9 ! e>ly #ac? c5tury4 ,cotton clo? 0 fir/ made 9 ,engl& 9 ! e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,! col\r ( cotton v>ies f deep yell[ to :ite4 ,! fibre diff]s 9 l5g?1 ! long /apl$ be+ ! mo/ valu$4 ,x is difficult to dye & requires a special prep>ation4 ,a few ( ! natural dye /uffs are capable ( dye+ cotton direct1 )\t a mordant1 su* z ,turm]ic1 ,b>b]ry b>k1 saffl[]1 annatto4 ,= o!r dyes cotton has a special attraction1 su* z cate*u4 ,,l95 ,l95 is flax1 d]iv$ f ! decompos$ /alks ( a plant ( ! g5us ,l9um4 ,x gr[s *iefly 9 ,russia1 ,belgium1 ,france1 ,holl& & ,irel&4 ,! plants aft] be+ ga!r$ are subject$ to a process call$ rett+ :i* sep>ates ! fibre f ! decay+ "p ( ! plant4 ,9 ,irel& & ,russia ?is is usually done 9 /agnant wat]1 produc+ a d>k col\r$ flax4 ,9 ,belgium1 ,holl&1 & ,france1 rett+ is c>ri$ out 9 runn+ wat]1 & ! result+ flax is a light] col\r4 ,l95 is m difficult to dye ?an cotton1 probably on acc\nt ( ! h>d nature ( ! fibre4 ,! same processes are us$ = dye+ l95 z = cotton4 ,to ,blea* ,l95--7,= #ac to #ae y>ds l9574 ,boil #a_/b lb4 soap & #a_/b lb4 soda 9 a gallon ( wat]4 ,put x 9 a copp] & fill up ) wat]1 leav+ room = ! l95 to be put 94 ,put 9 ! l95 & br+ to ! boil4 ,boil = #b h\rs1 keep+ x "u ! wat] & cov]$4 ,/ir occasionally4 ,!n spread out on ! grass = #c days1 wat]+ x :5 x gets dry4 ,repeat ?is boil+ & grass+ #c weeks4 ,! l95 is !n pure :ite4 ,to blea* l95 a cream col\r--,boil #a_/b lb4 soap & #a_/b lb4 soda 9 a gallon ( wat]4 ,fill copp] up ) wat] & put 9 l954 ,boil = #b h\rs4 ,repeat ?is once a day = #d days4 ,! l95 %\ld n be wrung out b kept 9 ! wat] till ready to be put into ! fre% ba?4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,mordants ,any dye belongs to "o ( two classes4 ,sub/antive1 giv+ col\r+ directly to ! mat]ial3 & adjective1 :i* includes ! great] numb] ( dyes & requires ! use ( a mordant to br+ out ! col\r4 ,!re are ?us two processes conc]n$ ) ! dye+ ( mo/ col\rs2 ! fir/ is mordant+ & ! second is ! col\r+ or actual dye+4 ,! mordant+ prep>es ! /uff to receive ! dye 7mord]e1 to bite74 ,! e>ly ,fr5* dy]s ?\ght t a mordant _h ! effect ( op5+ ! pores ( ! fibre1 s t ! dye c\ld m easily ent]2 b accord+ to ,hummel1 & lat] dy]s1 ! action ( ! mordant is purely *emical2 & he gives a def9ition ( a mordant z ! body1 :atev] x may be1 :i* is fix$ on ! fibre 9 comb9ation ) any giv5 col\r+ matt]4 ,! mordant is fir/ precipitat$ on to ! fibre & comb9es ) ! col\r+ matt] 9 ! subsequ5t dye ba?4 ,b1 :e!r ! action is *emical or m]ely physical1 ! fact rema9s t all adjective dyes ne$ ?is prep>ation ( ! fibre be=e !y w fix !mselves on x4 ,! use ( a mordant1 ?\gh n a necessity1 is sometimes an advantage :5 us+ sub/antive dyes4 ,9 e>ly days ! leaves & roots ( c]ta9 plants 7 us$4 ,?is is ! case ev5 n[ 9 ,india & o!r places :]e primitive dye+ me?ods are /ill c>ri$ on4 ,alum has be5 kn[n = c5turies 9 ,europe4 ,iron & t9 fil+s h also be5 us$4 ,alum & copp]as h be5 kn[n 9 ! ,highl&s long ages4 ,mordants %\ld n affect ! physical *>act]i/ics ( ! fibres4 ,suffici5t "t mu/ be all[$ = ! mordant to p5etrate ! fibre ?or\ghly4 ,if ! mordant is only sup]ficial1 ! dye w be unev53 x w fade & w n be z brilliant z x %\ld be4 ,! brilliancy & fa/ness ( ,ea/]n dyes are probably due to a great ext5t to ! l5g? ( "t tak5 ov] ! v>i\s processes ( dye+4 ,! long] "t t c be giv5 to ea* process1 ! m satisfactory w be ! result4 ,diff]5t mordants give diff]5t col\rs ) ! same dye /uff4 ,= example3--,co*9eal1 if mordant$ ) alum1 w give a crimson col\r2 ) iron1 purple2 ) t91 sc>let2 & ) *rome or copp]1 purple4 ,logwood1 also1 if mordant$ ) alum1 gives a mauve col\r2 if mordant$ ) *rome1 x gives a blue4 ,fu/ic1 weld1 & mo/ ( ! yell[ dyes1 give a gre5y yell[ ) alum1 b an old gold col\r ) *rome2 & fawns ( v>i\s %ades ) o!r mordants4 ,silk & wool require v mu* ! same prep>ation except t 9 ! case ( silk1 high temp]atures %\ld be avoid$4 ,wool is g5]ally boil$ 9 a weak solution ( :atev] mordant is us$4 ,) silk1 z a rule1 x is bett] to use a cold solution1 or a solution at a temp]ature bel[ boil+ po9t4 ,cotton & l95 are m difficult to dye ?an wool or silk4 ,_! fibre is n s por\s & w n hold ! dye /uff )\t a m complicat$ prep>ation4 ,! usual me?od ( prep>+ l95 or cotton is to boil x fir/ ) "s a/r+5t4 ,! use ( a/r+5ts 9 dye+ dep5ds ^u ! tannic acid !y conta94 ,9 comb9ation ) ord9>y mordants1 tannic acid aids ! attraction ( ! col\r+ matt] to ! fibre & adds brilliancy to ! col\rs4 ,! a/r+5ts mo/ly us$ are tannic acid1 gall nuts1 suma* & myrobalams4 ,cotton has a natural attraction = tannic acid1 s t :5 once /eep$ 9 its solution x is n easily remov$ by wa%+4 ,,alum ,?is is ! mo/ g5]ally us$ ( all ! mordants1 & has be5 kn[n z su* f e>ly times 9 _m p>ts ( ! _w4 ,= mo/ col\rs a c]ta9 proportion ( cream ( t>t> %\ld be add$ to ! alum ba? z x helps to bright5 ! ultimate col\r4 ,! usual am\nt ( alum is a qu>t] ( a p\nd to a p\nd ( wool4 ,z a rule1 less mordant is ne$$ = light col\rs ?an = d>k4 ,excess ( alum is apt to make ! wool /icky4 ,! usual l5g? ( "t = boil+ is ab\t an h\r4 ,"s dy]s give z mu* z #b-a_/b h\rs4 ,example ( mordant+ ) alum--#a_/d lb4 ( ,alum & #a oz4 cream ( t>t> = e p\nd ( wool4 ,?is is dissolv$ & :5 ! wat] is w>m ! wool is ent]$4 ,raise to boil+ po9t & boil = "o h\r4 ,! ba? is !n tak5 (f ! fire & all[$ to cool ov] night4 ,! wool is !n wrung out 7n wa%$7 & put away 9 a l95 bag 9 a cool place = #d or #e days1 :5 x is ready = dye+1 aft] be+ ?or\ghly wa%$4 ,,iron 7,f]r\s ,sulphate1 copp]as1 gre5 vitriol47 ,iron is "o ( ! olde/ mordants kn[n & is l>gely us$ 9 wool & cotton dye+4 ,x is almo/ z important z alum4 ,! temp]ature ( ! mordant+ ba? mu/ be rais$ v gradually to boil+ po9t or ! wool w dye unev5ly4 ,a g5]al me?od ( deal+ ) copp]as is to boil ! wool fir/ 9 a decoction ( ! col\r+ matt] & !n add ! mordant to ! same ba? 9 a proportion ( #e to #h p] c5t ( ! weight ( ! wool1 & cont9ue boil+ = half an h\r or s long]4 ,) "s dyes a sep>ate ba? is ne$$1 su* z ) ,camwood or ,cate*u4 ,great c>e is ne$$ 9 ! us+ ( copp]as1 z1 unless x is ?or\ghly dissolv$ & mix$ ) ! wat] be=e ! wool is ent]$1 x is apt to /a9 ! wool4 ,x also h>d5s wool if us$ 9 excess or if boil$ too long4 ,a sep>ate ba? %\ld always be kept = dyes or mordants conta9+ iron4 ,! lea/ trace ( x w dull col\rs & x w spoil ! brilliancy ( r$s1 yell[s & oranges4 ,copp]as is mo/ly us$ = ! fix+ ( wool col\rs 7,fu/ic1 etc47 to produce br[n %ades2 ! wool be+ boil$ fir/ 9 a decoction ( ! dye = ab\t #a h\r1 & !n = #a_/b an h\r ) ! addition ( #e to #h p] c5t ( copp]as4 ,if us$ = d>k5+ col\rs1 copp]as is add$ to ! ba? aft] ! dye+1 & ! boil+ cont9u$ = #ae to #bj m9s4 ,,t9 7,/ann\s *loride1 t9 cry/als1 t9 salts1 muriate ( t947 ,t9 is n s useful z a mordant 9 itself1 b z a modify+ ag5t ) o!r mordants4 ,x mu/ always be us$ ) great c>e1 z x t5ds to h>d5 ! wool1 mak+ x h>% & brittle4 ,its g5]al effect is to give bright]1 cle>] & fa/] col\rs ?an ! o!r mordants4 ,:5 us$ z a mordant be=e dye+1 ! wool is ent]$ into ! cold mordant ba?1 conta9+ #d p] c5t ( /ann\s *loride & #b p] c5t oxalic acid2 ! temp]ature is gradually rais$ to boil+1 & kept at ?is temp]ature = #a h\r4 ,x is sometimes add$ to ! dye ba? t[>ds ! end ( dye+1 to int5sify & bright5 ! col\r4 ,x is also us$ ) co*9eal = sc>let on wool 9 ! "o ba? me?od4 ,,*rome 7,potassium di*romate4 ,bi*romate ( ,pota%47 ,*rome is a mod]n mordant1 unkn[n to ! dy] ( fifty ye>s ago4 ,x is excell5t = wool & is easy to use & v effective 9 its action4 ,its great advantage is t x leaves ! wool s(t to ! t\*1 :]eas ! o!r mordants are apt to h>d5 ! wool4 ,! wool %\ld be boil$ = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs ) bi*romate ( pota% 9 ! proportion ( #b to #d p] c5t ( ! wool4 ,x is !n wa%$ well & imm$iately dy$4 ,wool mordant$ ) *rome %\ld n be expos$ to light1 b %\ld be kept well cov]$ ) ! liquid :ile be+ mordant$1 else x is liable to dye unev5ly4 ,an excess ( *rome impairs ! col\r1 #c p] c5t ( *rome is a safe quantity to use = ord9>y dye+4 ,x %\ld be dissolv$ 9 ! ba? :ile ! wat] is heat+4 ,! wool is ent]$ & ! ba? gradually rais$ to ! boil+ po9t1 & boil$ = #c_/d ( an h\r4 ,,copp] 7,copp] ,sulphate1 ,v]digris1 ,blue ,vitriol1 ,blue ,copp]as1 ,blue/one47 ,copp] is r>ely us$ z a mordant4 ,x is usually appli$ z a sadd5+ ag5t1 t is1 ! wool is dy$ fir/1 & ! mordant appli$ aft]w>ds to fix ! col\r4 ,) cream ( t>t> x is us$ sometimes z an ord9>y mordant be=e dye+1 b ! col\rs s produc$ h no advantage ov] col\rs mordant$ by easi] me?ods4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,briti% ,,dye ,,plants ,on ! introduction ( =eign dye woods & o!r dyes dur+ ! #ag? & #ah? c5turies1 ! native dye plants 7 rapidly displac$1 except 9 "s out ( ! way places su* z ! ,highl&s & p>ts ( ,irel&4 ,"s ( ^! ,briti% dye plants _h be5 us$ f e>ly hi/orical times = dye+4 ,"s few are /ill 9 use 9 comm]cial dye "w 7pe>1 sloe1 & a few o!rs72 b _! disuse 0 practically complet$ dur+ ! #ai? c5tury1 :5 ! *emical dyes ou/$ !m f ! m>ket4 ,! majority ( ^! plants are n v important z dyes1 & c\ld n probably n[ be collect$ 9 suffici5t quantities4 ,"s few1 h[ev]1 are important1 su* z woad1 weld1 hea!r1 walnut1 ald]1 oak1 "s li*5s2 & _m ( ! less important ones w\ld produce valuable col\rs if exp]im5ts 7 made ) ! "r mordants4 ,^? :i* h be5 9 use 9 ! ,highl&s are mo/ ( !m good dyes4 ,among ^! are ,ladies ,b$/raw1 :ortleb]ry1 yell[ iris1 brack51 bramble1 mead[ sweet1 ald]1 hea!r & _m o!rs4 ,! yell[ dyes are mo/ pl5tiful & _m ( ^! are good fa/ col\rs4 ,practically no good r$1 9 quantity1 is obta9able4 ,madd] is ! only reliable r$ dye among plants1 & t is no long] indig5\s 9 ,engl&4 ,mo/ ( ! dye plants require a prep>ation ( ! mat]ial to be dy$1 ) alum1 or "s o!r mordant1 b a few1 su* z ,b>b>y & "s ( ! li*5s1 are sub/antive dyes1 & require no mordant4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,r$ ,bir*4 ,betula alba4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,b$-/raw4 ,gallium boreale4 ,roots4 ,common ,sorrel4 ,rumex acetosa4 ,roots4 ,dy]'s ,woodruff4 ,asp]ula t9ctoria4 ,roots4 ,ev]gre5 ,alkanet4 ,an*usa semp]vir5s4 ,gromwell4 ,li?osp]mum arv5se4 ,lady's ,b$/raw4 ,gallium v]um4 ,roots4 ,m>% ,pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,com>um4 ,roots4 ,pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,torm5tilla4 ,roots4 ,wild ,madd]4 ,rubia p]egr9a4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,blue ,devil's ,bit4 ,scabiosa succisa4 ,leaves prep>$ l woad4 ,dog's ,m]cury4 ,m]curialis p]5nis4 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,b]ries4 ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,b]ries ) alum & salt4 ,r$ be>b]ry4 ,arcto/aphylos ,uva-,ursi4 ,sloe4,a ,prunus communis4 ,fruit4 ,:ortleb]ry or ,blaeb]ry4 ,vacc9ium ,myrtillus4 ,b]ries4 ,woad4 ,isatis t9ctoria4 ,yell[ ,iris4 ,iris ,pseudacorus4 ,roots4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,yell[ ,agrimony4 ,agrimonia ,eupatoria4 ,a%4 ,frax9us excelsior4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,b>b]ry4 ,b]b]is vulg>is4 ,/em & root4 ,bir*4 ,leaves4 ,bog ,asphodel4 ,n>!cium ossifragum4 ,bog ,myrtle or ,sweet ,gale4 ,myrica ,gale4 ,brack54 ,pt]is aquil9a4 ,roots4 ,also "y tops4 ,bramble4 ,rubus fructicosus4 ,broom4 ,s>o?ammus ,scop>ius4 ,buck?orn4 ,rhamnus frangula & ,r4 ca?>tica4 ,b]ries & ,b>k4 ,common dock4 ,rumex obtusifolius4 ,root4 ,crab ,apple4 ,pyrus ,malus4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,dy]'s ,gre5wood4 ,g5i/a t9ctoria4 ,"y %oots & leaves4 ,gorse4 ,ulex ,europaeus4 ,b>k1 fl[]s & "y %oots4 ,hea?4 ,erica vulg>is4 ,) ,alum4 ,h$ge /a*ys4 ,/a*ys palu/ris4 ,hop4 ,humulus lupulus4 ,hornbeam4 ,c>p9us ,betulus4 ,b>k4 ,kidney ,vet*4 ,an?yllis ,vuln>>ia4 ,l+4 ,caluna vulg>is4 ,m>% ,m>igold4 ,cal?a palu/ris4 ,m>% pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,com>um4 ,mead[ ,rue4 ,?alictrum flavum4 ,nettle4 ,urtica4 ,) ,alum4 ,pe>4 ,leaves4 ,plum4 ,polygonum ,hydropip]4 ,polygonum ,p]sec>ia4 ,popl>4 ,leaves4 ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,leaves4 ,s4 ,john's ,wort4 ,hyp]icum p]=atum4 ,sawwort4,b ,s]ratula t9ctoria4 ,sp9dle tree4 ,euonymus ,europaeus4 ,/9k+ ,willy1 or ,ragwe$4 ,s5ecio ,jacobaea4 ,sundew4 ,dros]a4 ,teasel4 ,dipsacus ,sylve/ris4 ,way-f>+ tree4 ,viburnum lantana4 ,leaves4 ,weld4 ,res$a luteola4 ,will[4,c ,leaves4 ,yell[ ,camomile4 ,an!mis t9ctoria4 ,yell[ ,c5taury4 ,*lora p]foliata4 ,yell[ ,corydal4 ,corydalis lutea4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,gre5 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,leaves ) alum4 ,fl[]+ re$4 ,phragmites communis4 ,fl[]+ tops1 ) copp]as4 ,l>*4 ,b>k1 ) alum4 ,lily ( ! valley4 ,conval>ia majalis4 ,leaves4 ,nettle4 ,urtica dioica & ,u4 ,ur5s4 ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,b]ries & leaves1 ) alum4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,br[n ,ald]4 ,alnus glut9osa4 ,b>k4 ,bir*4 ,betula alba4 ,b>k4 ,hop4 ,humulus lupulus4 ,/alks give a br[ni% r$ col\r4 ,onion4 ,sk9s4 ,l>*4 ,p9e ne$les1 collect$ 9 ,autumn4 ,oak4 ,qu]cus ,robur4 ,b>k4 ,r$ currants1 ) alum4 ,walnut4 ,root & gre5 husks ( nut4 ,wat] ,lily4 ,nymphaea alba4 ,root4 ,:ortleb]ry4 ,vacc9ium ,myrtillus4 ,"y %oots1 ) nut galls4 ,dulse4 7,seawe$47 ,li*5s4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,purple ,byrony4 ,byronia dioica4 ,b]ries4 ,damson4 ,fruit1 ) alum4 ,d&elion4 ,t>axacum ,d5s-leonis4 ,roots4 ,danewort4 ,sambucus ,ebulus4 ,b]ries4 ,deadly night%ade4 ,atropa ,belladonna4 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,b]ries1 ) alum1 a violet2 ) alum & salt1 a lilac col\r4 ,sundew4 ,dros]a4 ,:ortleb]ry or blaeb]ry4 ,vacc9ium myrtillus4 ,x conta9s a blue or purple dye :i* w dye wool & silk )\t mordant4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,black ,ald]4 ,alnus glut9osa4 ,b>k1 ) copp]as4 ,blackb]ry4 ,rubus fruticosus4 ,"y %oots1 ) salts ( iron4 ,dock4 ,rumex4 ,root4 ,eld]4 ,b>k1 ) copp]as4 ,iris4 ,iris ,pseudacorus4 ,root4 ,mead[sweet4 ,spirea ,ulm>ia4 ,oak4 ,b>k & acorns4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote ,a3 ,on boil+ sloes1 _! juice becomes r$1 & ! r$ dye :i* x imp>ts to l95 *anges1 :5 wa%$ ) soap1 into a blui% col\r1 :i* is p]man5t4 ,footnote ,b3 ,sawwort1 :i* gr[s abundantly 9 mead[s1 af=ds a v f9e pure yell[ ) alum mordant1 :i* greatly resembles weld yell[4 ,x is extremely p]man5t4 ,footnote ,c3 ,! leaves ( ! sweet will[1 salix p5t&ra1 ga!r$ at ! end ( ,augu/ & dri$ 9 ! %ade1 af=d1 if boil$ ) ab\t "o ?irtie? pota%1 a f9e yell[ col\r to wool1 silk & ?read1 ) alum basis4 ,all ! #e species ( ,erica or hea? gr[+ on ?is isl& are capable ( af=d+ yell[ mu* l ^? f ! dy]'s broom2 also ! b>k & %oots ( ! ,lomb>dy popl>1 populus pyramidalis4 ,! ?ree leav$ hellebore1 helleborus trifolius1 = dye+ wood yell[1 is us$ 9 ,canada4 ,! se$s ( ! purple trefoil1 luc]ne1 & f5ugreek1 ! fl[]s ( ! ,fr5* m>igold1 ! camomile1 antemis t9ctoria1 ! a%1 frax9us excelsior1 fumitory1 fum>ia (fic9alis1 dye wool yell[4 ,! ,am]ican gold5 rod1 solidago canad5sis1 af=ds a v beautiful yell[ to wool1 silk & cotton ^u an alum9\s basis4 ,bancr(t4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,li*5 ,,dyes ,"s ( ! mo/ useful dyes & ! lea/ kn[n are to be f\nd among ! ,li*5s4 ,!y seem to h be5 us$ among peasant dy]s f remote ages1 b app>5tly none ( ! great ,fr5* dy]s us$ !m1 nor are !y m5tion$ 9 any ( ! old books on dye+4 ,! only ,li*5 dyes t are kn[n g5]ally among dy]s are ,or*il & ,cudbe>1 & ^! are prep>ations ( li*5s1 n ! li*5s !mselves4 ,!y are /ill us$ 9 "s quantity & are prep>$ r elaborately4 ,b a great _m ( ! ord9>y li*5s yield v good & p]man5t dyes4 ,! ,p>melia saxatilis & ,p>melia omphalodes1 are l>gely us$ 9 ! ,highl&s & ,we/ ,irel&1 = dye+ br[n ( all %ades4 ,no mordant is ne$$1 & ! col\rs produc$ are ! fa/e/ kn[n4 ,crottle is ! g5]al "n = ,li*5s 9 ,scotl&4 ,!y are ga!r$ (f ! rocks 9 ,july & ,augu/1 dri$ 9 ! sun1 & us$ to dye wool1 )\t any prep>ation4 ,! crottle is put into ! ba? ) a suffici5t quantity ( wat]1 boil$ up1 all[$ to cool1 !n boil$ up ) ! wool until ! %ade requir$ is got4 ,?is may take f "o to ?ree or f\r h\rs1 z ! dye is n rapidly tak5 up by ! wool4 ,o!r dy]s use x 9 ! foll[+ way3 ,a lay] ( crottle1 a lay] ( wool1 & s on until ! ba? is full2 fill ) cold wat] & br+ to ! boil1 & boil till ! col\r is deep en\gh4 ,! wool does n seem to be affect$ by keep+ x 9 ! dye a long "t4 ,a small quantity ( acetic acid put ) ! ,li*5 is said to assi/ 9 exhau/+ ! col\r4 ,! grey ,li*51 ,ramal9a scopulorum dyes a f9e %ade ( yell[ br[n4 ,x gr[s v pl5tifully on old /one walls1 especially by ! sea1 & 9 damp woods1 on trees1 & on old rott5 wood4 ,boil ! ,li*5 up 9 suffici5t wat] "o day1 & ! next put 9 ! wool1 & boil up aga9 till ! "r col\r is got4 ,if ! wool is left 9 ! dye = a day or m aft] boil+ x absorbs m col\r1 & x does n hurt ! wool b leaves x s(t & silky to ! t\*1 ?\gh apt to be unev5 9 col\r4 ,"s mordant ! wool fir/ ) alum1 b x does n seem to ne$ x4 ,! be/ kn[n ( ! dye ,li*5s are ,p>melia saxatilis & ,p>melia omphalodes :i* are /ill l>gely us$ 9 ,scotl& & ,irel& = dye+ wool = twe$s4 ,! well-kn[n ,h>ris twe$ smell is p>tly due to ! use ( ?is dye4 ,o!r ,li*5s also kn[n = _! dye+ prop]ties are3 ,p>melia cap]ata1 or ,/one ,crottle1 :i* conta9s a yell[ dye1 ,p4 c]atophylla1 or ,d>k ,crottle1 & ,p4 p>iet9a1 ! common wall ,li*51 :i* gives a col\r simil> to t ( ! ,li*5 itself1 yell[i% br[n4 ,a deep r$ col\r c be got f ! dull grey friable ,li*51 common on old /one walls4 ,! bright yell[ ,li*51 gr[+ on rocks & walls1 & old ro(s1 dyes a f9e plum col\r1 if ! wool is mordant$ fir/ ) ,bi*romate ( ,pota%4 ,9 ,sw$51 ,scotl& & o!r c\ntries ! peasantry use a ,li*51 call$ ,lecanora t>t>ea to furni% a r$ or crimson dye4 ,x is f\nd abundantly on almo/ all rocks1 & also gr[s on dry moors4 ,x is collect$ 9 ,may & ,june1 & /eep$ 9 /ale ur9e = ab\t ?ree weeks1 be+ kept at a mod]ate heat all ! "t4 ,! sub/ance hav+ !n a ?ick & /rong texture1 l bread1 & be+ ( a bluei% black col\r1 is tak5 out & made into small cakes ( ab\t #c_/d lb4 9 weight1 :i* are wrapp$ 9 dock leaves & hung up to dry 9 peat smoke4 ,:5 dry x may be pres]v$ fit = use = _m ye>s2 :5 want$ = dye+ x is p>tially dissolv$ 9 w>m wat]2 #e lbs4 ( ,korkalett is consid]$ suffici5t = ab\t #d ,scot* ells ( clo?4 ,! col\r produc$ is a light r$4 ,x is us$ 9 ! dye+ ( y>n z well z ( clo?4 ,9 ,%etl&1 ! ,p>melia saxatilis 7,scrottyie7 is us$ to dye br[n4 ,x is f\nd 9 abundance on argillace\s rocks4 ,x is consid]$ be/ if ga!r$ late 9 ! ye>1 & is g5]ally collect$ 9 ,augu/4 ,l9naeus m5tions t a beautiful r$ col\r may be prep>$ f ! ,li*5 ,gyrophora pu/ulata4 ,g4 ,cyl9drica is us$ by ,icel&]s = dye+ wooll5 /uffs a br[ni% gre5 col\r4 ,9 ,sw$5 & ,norway1 ,ev]nia vulp9a is us$ = dye+ wooll5 /uffs yell[4 ,icel& ,moss1 ,cetr>ia ,isl&ica1 is us$ 9 ,icel& = dye+ br[n4 ,usnea b>bata is collect$ f trees 9 ,p5nsylvania1 & us$ = an orange col\r = y>n4 ,a g5]al me?od = us+ li*5s is sugge/$ by ,dr4 ,we/r+ ( ,sw$5 9 8 ,exp]im5ts on ,li*5s = ,dye+ ,wools & ,silks3 ,! ,li*5s %\ld be ga!r$ aft] "s days ( ra91 !y c !n be m easily deta*$ f ! rocks4 ,!y %\ld be well wa%$1 dri$1 & r$uc$ to a f9e p[d]3 #be p>ts ( pure riv] wat] are add$ to #a ( p[d]$ li*5 & #a "p ( fre% quick lime to #aj p>ts p[d]$ li*54 ,to #aj lbs4 li*5 half a p\nd sal ammoniac is suffici5t :5 lime & sal ammoniac are us$ toge!r4 ,! vessel conta9+ !m %\ld be kept cov]$ = ! fir/ #b or #c days4 ,sometimes ! addition ( a little common salt or salt-petre w give great] lu/re to ! col\rs4 ,?is me?od c be foll[$ by anyone wi%+ to exp]im5t ) ,li*5s4 ,dr4 ,we/r+ did n use a mordant z a rule4 ,:]e ! same species ( ,li*5 gr[s on bo? rocks & trees1 ! specim5s tak5 f rocks give ! bett] col\rs4 ,,or*il ,,or ,,ar*il ,,& ,,cudbe> are sub/antive or non mordants dyes1 obta9$ f ,li*5s ( v>i\s species ( ,roccella gr[+ on rocks 9 ! ,can>y ,isl&s & o!r tropical & sub-tropical c\ntries4 ,!y us$ to be made 9 c]ta9 p>ts ( ,great ,brita9 f v>i\s li*5s1 b ! manufacture ( ^! has almo/ entirely disappe>$4 ,!y h be5 kn[n f e>ly times z dyes4 ,!y give beautiful purples & r$s1 b ! col\r is n v fa/4 ,! dye is produc$ by ! action ( ammonia & oxyg5 ^u ! cru%$ ,li*5s or we$s z !y are call$4 ,! e>ly way ( produc+ ! col\r 0 by treat+ ! ,li*5 ) /ale ur9e & slak$ lime & ?is me?od 0 foll[$ 9 ,scotl&4 ,or*il is appli$ to wool by ! simple process ( boil+ x 9 a neutral or slightly acid solution ( ! col\r+ matt]4 #c ,sulphuric acid is a useful comb9ation4 ,sometimes alum & t>t> are us$4 ,x dyes sl[ly & ev5ly4 ,x is us$ z a bottom = ,indigo on wool & also = comp\nd %ades on wool & silk4 ,= cotton & l95 dye+ x is n us$4 ,x is r>ely us$ by itself z ! col\r is fugitive1 b by us+ a mordant ( t91 ! col\r is made mu* m p]man5t4 ,_m ( ! ,briti% li*5s produce col\rs by ! same treatm5t z is us$ = produc+ ,or*il4 ,l>ge quantities 7 manufactur$ 9 ,scotl& f li*5s ga!r$ 9 ! ,%etl&s & ,we/]n ,highl&s4 ,?is 0 call$ ,cudbe>4 ,! ,species us$ by ! ,scotti% ,cudbe> mak]s 7 g5]ally ,lecanora t>t>ea & ,urceol>ia calc>ea2 b ! foll[+ li*5s also give ! purple col\r on treatm5t ) ammonia3--,ev]nia pruna/ri1 ,lecanora pallesc5s1 ,umbilic>ia vellea1 ,u4 pu/ulata1 ,p>melia p]lata4 ,sev]al o!rs give col\rs ( simil> "*1 b ( little comm]cial value4 ,! manufacture ( ,ar*il & ,cudbe> f ! v>i\s li*5s is simple 9 pr9ciple4 ,9 all cases ! plant is r$uc$ to a pulp ) wat] & ammonia1 & ! mass kept at a mod]ate heat & all[$ to f]m5t1 ! process tak+ two or ?ree weeks to complete4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,li*5s ,to dye ,br[n ) ,crotal4 ,= #f-a_/d lbs4 7#ajj ozs47 ( wool4 ,dye ba?s may be us$ ( v>y+ /r5g?s ( f #aj to #ej ozs4 ( ,crotal4 ,raise ! ba? to ! boil1 & boil = an h\r4 ,a light tan %ade is got by fir/ dipp+ ! wool 9 a /rong solution ( ,crotal1 a d>k] %ade by boil+ = half-an-h\r1 & a d>k br[n by boil+ = two h\rs or s4 ,x is bett]1 h[ev]1 to get ! %ade by alt]+ ! quantity ( ,crotal us$4 ,! addition ( suffici5t oil ( vitriol or acetic acid to make ! ba? slightly acid w be an improvem5t 7a v small quantity %\ld be us$74 ,to dye r$ ) ,crotal4 ,ga!r ! li*5 (f ! rocks--x is be/ 9 w9t]4 ,put lay]s ( li*5 & wool alt]nately 9 a pot1 fill up ) wat] & boil until y get ! desir$ t9t4 ,too mu* crotal w make ! wool a d>k r$ br[n1 b a v pretty t]ra cotta r$ c be got4 ,no mordant is requir$4 ,to dye ,p9k f a bright yell[ ,li*5 7,p>melia p>iet9a74 ,mordant ! wool ) #c ( ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 !n boil ) ! li*5 = #a h\r or m4 ,to dye ,br[n f ,crotal4 ,boil ! wool ) an equal quantity ( li*5 = #a or #a-a_/b h\rs4 ,no mordant is requir$4 ,to dye r$ purple f ,cudbe> & ,logwood4 ,dye ) equal quantities ( ,cudbe> & ,logwood1 ! wool hav+ be5 mordant$ ) *rome4 ,a light] col\r is got by dye+ ) #h lbs4 cudbe>1 #a_/b lb4 logwood 7= #cj lbs4 wool74 ,to dye ,yell[ on ,l95 ) ! ,li*5 ,peltig]a can9a 7a l>ge flat li*5 gr[+ on rocks 9 woods74 ,mordant ) alum 7#a_/d lb4 to a lb4 ( l957 boil = #b h\rs4 ,!n boil up ) suffici5t quantity ( ! li*5 till ! desir$ col\r is got4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,li*5s ,,us$ ,,by ,,! ,,peasantry ,,( ,,diff]5t ,,c\ntries ,,= ,,wool ,,dye+,d ,,%ades ,,( ,,r$1 ,,purple ,,& ,,orange ,borr]a a%ney4 ,*ut*ele]a4 ,india4 ,conicul>ia aculeata4 v>4 spadicea4 ,br[n prickly cornicul>ia4 ,can>y ,isl&s1 ,highl& ,m\nta9s4 ,ev]nia pruna/ri4 ,ragg$ ho>y ,li*54 ,/ag's horn ,li*54 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl& on trees4 ,isidium corall9um4 ,:ite crottle4 ,on rocks 9 ,scotl&4 ,i4 ,we/r+ii4 ,we/r+'s ,isidium4 ,norway & ,sw$54 ,lecanora t>t>ea4 ,crotal1 ,crottle1 ,corkur1 ,corcir1 ,korkir4 ,f\nd 9 ! ,scot* ,highl&s & ,isl&s1 gr[+ on rocks2 us$ = ! manufacture ( ,cudbe> 9 ,lei? & ,glasg[4 ,l4 p>ella4 ,light ,crottle1 ,crabs ,eye ,li*54 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 ,france & ,engl&1 on rocks & trees2 =m]ly celebrat$ 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france 9 ! mak+ ( ! dye call$ ,orseille d',auv]gne4 ,l4 haematomma4 ,bloody spott$ lecanora1 ,black lecanora4 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl& on rocks & trees4 ,lecidea sangu9>ia4 ,r$ fruit$ lecidea4 ,9 ,scotl&1 on rocks4 ,nephroma p>ilis4 ,*ocolate col\r$ nephroma4 ,scotl&1 on /ones4 ,said to dye blue4 ,p>melia cap]ata4 ,/one ,crottle1 ,arcel4 ,f\nd 9 ,nor? ( ,irel& & ,isle ( ,man1 on trees4 ,said to dye br[n1 orange lemon & yell[4 ,p4 consp]sa4 ,spr9kl$ p>melia4 ,f\nd gr[+ on rocks 9 ,engl&4 ,p4 omphalodes4 ,black ,crottle1 ,cork1 ,cork]1 ,cro/il or ,cro/al 7,scot* ,highl&s74 ,arcel 7,irel&74 ,k5k]ig 7,wales74 ,ala=el leaf 7,sw$574 ,f\nd on rocks1 especially ,alp9e1 9 ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,wales & ,sc&9avia4 ,"o ( ! mo/ ext5sively us$ dye li*5s4 ,x yields a d>k br[n dye readily to boil+ wat]1 & x is easily fix$ to y>ns by simple mordants4 ,x is /at$ to yield a r$1 crimson or purple dye4 ,p4 saxatilis4 ,crottle1 /ane-raw1 ,/aney-raw 7,scotl&74 ,scrottyie 7,%etl&74 ,/5-laf1 ,/5-mossa 7,norway & ,sw$574 ,f\nd on rocks & /ones 9 ,scotl&1 ,%etl&1 & ,sc&9avia4 ,9 w9t] ! ,sw$i% peasantry we> home made g>m5ts dy$ purple by ?is ,li*54 ,by ! ,%etl&]s x is usually collect$ 9 ,augu/1 :5 x is consid]$ ri*e/ 9 col\r+ matt]4 ,ramal9a f>9acea4 ,mealy ramal9a4 ,on trees 9 ,engl&4 ,r4 scopulorum4 ,ivory-l ramal9a4 ,scotl&1 on m>itime rocks4 ,a r$ dye4 ,rocella t9ctoria4 ,orseille4 ,gr[s 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france1 on ! rocks by ! sea4 ,solor9a crocea4 ,saffron yell[ solor9a4 ,9 ,scotl&1 on m\nta9 summits4 ,! col\r+ matt] is ready =m$ & abundant 9 ! ?allus4 ,/icta pulmonacea4 ,on trees4 ,umbilic>ia pu/ulata4 ,bli/]$ umbilic>ia4 ,f\nd on rocks 9 ,norway & ,sw$54 ,urceol>ia calc>ea4 ,corkir1 ,lime/one ,urceol>ia4 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 ,we/]n ,isl&s1 ,%etl& & ,wales1 gr[+ on lime/one rocks4 ,u4 c9]ea4 ,greyi% ,urceol>ia4 ,9 ,engl&1 on rocks4 ,u4 scruposa4 ,rock ,urceol>ia4 ,gr[s on rocks 9 hilly di/ricts 9 ,engl&4 ,usnea b>bata4 ,be>d$ ,usnea4 ,p5nsylvania & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,on old trees4 ,/at$ to dye y>n orange4 ,u4 florida4 ,fl[]+ ,usnea4 ,pale gre5i% yell[ or r$di% br[n4 ,u4 plicata4 ,plait$ ,usnea4 ,on trees4 ,,%ades ,,( ,,br[n ,alectoria jubata4 ,horsehair ,li*51 ,rock hair4 ,on fir trees 9 ,engl&4 ,pale gre5i% br[n4 ,borr]a flavicans4 ,yell[ borr]a4 ,on trees 9 ,g]many4 ,gamboge yell[4 ,cetr>ia ,isl&ica4 ,icel& moss4 ,icel& hea?s & hills4 ,x yields a good br[n to boil+ wat]1 b ?is dye appe>s only to h be5 made available 9 ,icel&4 ,cetr>ia junip]9a4 ,en-mossa4 ,on trees 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,ev]nia flavicans4 ,wolf's-bane ev]nia4 ,on trees 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,gamboge yell[4 ,gyrophora cyl9drica4 ,cyl9drical gyrophora4 ,on rocks 9 ,icel&4 ,gre5i% br[n4 ,also ,g4 deu/a4 ,g4 deu/a4 ,scor*$-look+ gyrophora4 ,on rocks 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,l9naeus /ates t x furni%es a pa9t call$ ,t\s*1 mu* us$ 9 ,sw$54 ,lecanora c&el>ia4 ,ljus massa4 ,on trees 9 ,sw$54 ,lecidea atro-vir5s4 ,map li*54 ,on rocks1 ,sc&9avia4 ,lepr>ia *lor9a4 ,brim/one col\r$ lepr>ia4 ,sc&9avia1 on rocks4 ,l4 ,ioli?us4 ,viol-massa4 ,sw$51 on /ones4 ,gives /ones ! appe>ance ( blood /a9s4 ,p>melia omphalodes4 ,9 ,sc&9avia & ,scotl&4 ,)]+ ass]ts x yields a purple dye1 pal]1 b m p]man5t1 ?an or*il2 :i* is prep>$ 9 ,icel& by /eep+ 9 /ale lye1 add+ a little salt & mak+ x up into balls ) lime4 ,p4 p>iet9a4 ,common yell[ wall li*51 ,wag-massla ,wag-laf4 ,engl& & ,sw$51 on trees1 rocks1 walls1 pal+s4 ,us$ to dye ,ea/] eggs4 ,us$ 9 ,sw$5 = wool dye+4 ,p4 physoides4 ,d>k crottle1 ,bjork-laf4 ,f\nd 9 ,sw$51 ,scotl& & ,sc&9avia1 on rocks & trees4 ,/icta pulmonacea4 ,oak lung1 ,lungwort1 ,aikraw ,hazelraw1 ,oak-rag1 ,hazel crottle1 ,rags4 ,f\nd on trees 9 ,engl&1 ,scotl&1 ,nor? ( ,irel&1 ,sc&9avia4 ,x dyes wool orange & is said to h be5 us$ by ! ,h]e=d%ire peasantry to dye /ock+s br[n4 ,"s species yield beautiful saffron or gamboge col\r$ dyes1 e4g4 ,s4 flava crocata1 aurata4 ,s4 scrobiculata4 ,aik-raw1 ,oak rag4 ,f\nd on trees 9 ,scotl& & ,engl&4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote ,d3 ,f an article by ,dr4 ,laud] ,l9dsay on ,! ,dye+ ,prop]ties ( ,li*5s4 ,! ,ed9burgh ,philosophical ,j\rnal1 ,july to ,octob]1 #ahee4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,blue ,,indigo1 ,,woad1 ,,logwood ,,indigo ,indigo is ! blue matt] extract$ f a plant ,indig(]a t9ctoria & o!r species1 gr[+ 9 ,asia1 ,s\? ,am]ica & ,egypt4 ,x rea*es ! m>ket 9 a f9e p[d]1 :i* is insoluble 9 wat]4 ,!re are two ways ( dye+ ) ,indigo4 ,x may be dissolv$ 9 sulphuric acid or oil ( vitriol1 !reby mak+ an indigo extract4 ,?is process 0 discov]$ 9 #agdj4 ,x gives good blue col\rs b is n v p]man5t1 d>k] col\rs are m s ?an ! pal]4 ,x does n dye cotton or l954 ,! o!r me?od is by ! ,indigo vat process :i* produces fa/ col\rs b is complicat$ & difficult4 ,9 ord] to col\r ) indigo x has to be depriv$ ( its oxyg54 ,! deoxidiz$ indigo is yell[ & 9 ?is /ate p5etrates ! wooll5 fibre2 ! m p]fectly ! indigo 9 a vat is deoxidiz$1 ! bright] & fa/] w be ! col\r4 ,= wool dye+ ! vats are heat$ to a temp]ature ( #ej deg4,c4 ,cotton & l95 are g5]ally dy$ cold4 ,,to ,,make ,,extract ,,( ,,indigo #a lb4 oil ( vitriol 7pure1 n comm]cial74 #b oz4 f9ely gr\nd ,indigo4 #a_/b oz4 precipitat$ *alk4 ,mix a little ( ! indigo ) a small quantity ( oil ( vitriol1 add a little *alk & /ir well4 ,g on mix+ gradually till all is us$ up4 ,?is %\ld take an h\r or two4 ,/ir a few times ea* day = #d or #e days1 add+ ab\t #a_/b oz4 m ( *alk by degrees4 ,x is be/ mix$ 9 a glass /opp]$ bottle or j>1 & /irr$ ) a glass rod4 ,x mu/ be kept f ! air4 ,,indigo ,,extract 7#d to #f lbs4 wool74 ,mordant,e #be ,alum4 ,/ir #b to #c ozs4 ,indigo extract into ! wat] ( dye ba?4 ,! am\nt is det]m9$ by ! dep? ( %ade requir$4 ,:5 w>m1 ent] ! wool & br+ sl[ly to boil+ po9t 7ab\t #a_/b an h\r7 & cont9ue boil+ = ano!r #a_/b h\r4 ,by keep+ x bel[ boil+ po9t :ile dye+1 bett] col\rs are got1 b x is apt to be unev54 ,boil+ levels ! col\r b makes ! %ade gre5]4 ,?is is correct$ by add+ to ! dye ba? a little logwood1 #aj to #bj p] c5t :i* %\ld be boil$ up sep>ately1 /ra9$1 & put 9 ba? be=e ! wool is ent]$2 too mu* logwood dims ! col\r4 ,in/ead ( logwood a little madd] is sometimes us$2 also ,cudbe> or ,b>wood4 ,,indigo ,,vat 7,,t97 ,,= ,,wool ,to #b qu>ts ( wat] add #a_/d lb4 lime1 & make hot4 ,!n add #a oz4 indigo p\nd$ up ) a little ( ! lime wat]2 let x /& & get w>m]4 ,p\nd up #a_/b oz4 t91 ,/ann\s ,*loride1 9 a little lime wat] & add1 toge!r ) #a_/b oz4 z9c4 ,add m lime wat] or t9 accord+ to ! /ate ( ! vat4 ,!re %\ld be a /reaky scum on ! surface1 & ! wat] und]nea? cle> ) a gre5 t+e4 ,pe>l a% c be us$ in/ead ( lime4 ,,hydrosulphite-,,soda ,,vat ,,= ,,wool #b ozs4 p[d]$ indigo4 #g fluid ozs4 ,cau/ic ,soda solution 7,,sg #a4b74 #d p9ts ,sodium ,hydrosulphite 7,,sg #a4a74 ,! ,/ock ,solution4--,take #b ozs4 ( well p\nd$ indigo1 ) en\gh w>m wat] 7#abj deg4,f47 to make a pa/e1 & gr9d 9 a pe/le & mort> = #aj m9utes4 ,empty into a saucepan1 capacity #a gallon4 ,take #ab fluid ozs4 ( wat] add+ gradually #c ozs4 ( comm]cial cau/ic soda #gf p] c5t4 ,?is w give a solution ( ,,sg #a4b1 :i* c be te/$ ) a hydromet] read+ f #ajjj to #bjjj1 ! #ajjj repres5t+ ,,sg #a z = wat]4 ,next take #e p9ts wat]1 add hydrosulphite sl[ly1 /irr+ g5tly until a read+ ( #aajj is %[n 7,,sg #a4a7 on ! hydromet]4 ,if ! hydrosulphite be weigh$ be=eh& & ! /ock ( ! same be kept free f damp air1 or great heat1 = future vats ! hydromet] c be disp5s$ )2 x is simply weigh$ out & add$ sl[ly to ! wat]4 ,if add$ too quickly ! hydrosulphite w cake1 fall to ! bottom & be difficult to dissolve4 ,to ! saucepan conta9+ ! indigo 7#ajj p] c5t7 add #g fluid ozs4 ( ! cau/ic soda solution1 !n gradually add #c-a_/b p9ts ( hydrosulphite solution1 /irr+ g5tly = #ae to #bj m9utes4 ,heat ! saucepan to #abj deg4,f4 & on no acc\nt to m ?an #adj deg4,f4--ov]heat+ w ru9 ! ,/ock ,solution--let x /& = half an h\r1 !n te/ ) a /rip ( glass4 ,?is %\ld %[ a p]fectly cle> gold5 yell[ col\r 7turn+ blue 9 #de secs4 approx471 free f spots4 ,if d>k spots %[1 ?is indicates undissolv$ indigo1 !re=e gradually add hydrosulphite solution 7#b-c fluid ozs474 ,wait #ae m9s4 & te/ ) glass /rip2 if incorrect cont9ue ?is e #ae m9utes until ! glass indicates cle> yell[4 ,if ! ,/ock ,solution is gre5i% :ite & turbid1 undissolv$ indigo :ite is pres5t4 ,add !n n m ?an a teaspoonful at a "t cau/ic soda solution until ! ,/ock ,solution answ]s ! glass te/4 ,! ,dye ,vat %\ld conta9 ab\t #aj gallons ( wat] heat$ to h& hot1 #abj deg4 & n above #adj deg4,f4 ,add #c ozs4 ( hydrosulphite solution /irr+ c>efully1 let x /& = #bj m9utes2 ?is r5d]s h>mless any undissolv$ oxyg54 ,add a small cupful ( ! ,/ock ,solution1 /ir c>efully )\t spla%+4 ,! vats %\ld be gre5i% yell[ & %\ld n feel slimy1 an indication ( too mu* cau/ic4 ,! vat is n[ ready to dye & is kept at #abj deg4 to #adj deg4,f4 ,betwe5 dips add ,/ock ,solution z requir$1 if ! vat goes blue & turbid add #c to #d fluid ozs4 ( hydrosulphite & w>m up to #adj deg4,f4 & wait #cj m9utes4 ,z a la/ resort add cau/ic soda solution v gradually4 ,?is %\ld n be requir$ if ! ,/ock ,solution is prop]ly prep>$4 ,/>t to dye ) weak vats1 #bj to #dj m9ute dips1 & f9i% ) /rong] vats4 ,! m dips giv5 to obta9 a fix$ %ade1 ! fa/] w be ! y>n to wa%+ & rubb+4 ,! y>n mu/ be oxidiz$ by exposure to ! air = ! same l5g? ( "t z dipp$4 ,aft] ! f9al dip1 pass ! y>n ?r\gh a #aj gallon ba? ( wat] to :i* is add$ #c ozs4 ( sulphuric acid1 pure or hydro*loric4 ,?is neutralizes ! cau/ic us$4 ,wa% y>n at lea/ twice 9 wat]4 ,improvem5t ( ,defective ,indigo ,vat ,dyes4 ,if1 aft] wa%+ until cle>1 ! y>n %\ld rub (f badly1 !re is b "o rem$y4 ,wa% same 9 ,full]'s e>?1 & if ! %ade is !n too pale1 re-dye4 ,if1 ?r\gh bad managem5t ( ! vats1 ! y>n is dull1 pass ! y>n ?r\gh a hot ba? 7#ajj wat]1 #a acetic acid7 & wa% 9 two wat]s4 ,if y>n is /reaky1 take #aj gallons ( wat] at #abj deg4,f41 #a oz4 ( hydrosulphite p[d]1 #b fluid ozs4 liquid ammonia =t4 #hhj1 & let y>n lie 9 same = #fj m9utes4 ,wa% 9 two wat]s4 ,! foll[+ facts %\ld be c>efully not$3-- ,! ,cau/ic ,soda is ! alkali :i* dissolves ! ,indigo ,:ite4 ,! ,hydrosulphite r$uces ! ,indigot9e 9 ! ,indigo to ,indigo ,:ite4 ,indigo ,:ite is fix$ on ! y>n z ,indigo ,:ite & on exposure to ! air becomes blue4 ,! y>n1 on removal f ! vat1 %\ld come out gre5i% yell[ or a gre5i% blue4 ,! latt] is = blue y>n & %\ld n turn blue too quickly 7all[ #fj seconds at lea/74 ,re/ ! vats = #a h\r aft] #c h\rs "w4 ,nev] hurry ! vats4 ,x is a good ?+ to h hydrosulphite slightly 9 excess z ?is prev5ts premature oxidization2 too mu* w /rip (f ! indigo :ite already deposit$ on ! y>n4 ,cau/ic ,soda mu/ always be us$ ) ! greate/ caution or ! y>n w be t5d]$ & ru9$4 ,f9ally1 unless ! y>n is completely sc\r$ x is impossible to obta9 a cle> col\r1 or a blue :i* w n rub (f4 ,! figures giv5 are = ,indigo be>+ #ajj ,indigot9e1 !re=e 9 us+ vegetable ,indigo d n add all ! ,cau/ic or ,hydrosulphite1 b dep5d on ! glass te/ r ?an on measurem5ts4 ,,woad ,woad is d]iv$ f a plant1 ,isatis t9ctoria1 gr[+ 9 ! ,nor? ( ,france & 9 ,engl&4 ,x 0 ! only blue dye 9 ! ,we/ be=e ,indigo 0 introduc$ f ,india4 ,s9ce !n woad has be5 little us$ except z a f]m5t+ ag5t = ! ,indigo vat4 ,x dyes wooll5 clo? a gre5i% col\r :i* *anges to a deep blue 9 ! air4 ,x is said to be inf]ior 9 col\r to indigo b ! col\r is mu* m p]man5t4 ,! leaves :5 cut are r$uc$ to a pa/e1 kept 9 heaps = ab\t fifte5 days to f]m5t1 & !n are =m$ into balls :i* are dri$ 9 ! sun2 ^! h a r agreeable smell & are ( a violet col\r4 ,^! balls are subject$ to a fur!r f]m5tation ( n9e weeks be=e be+ us$ by ! dy]4 ,:5 woad is n[ us$ x is always 9 comb9ation ) indigo1 to improve ! col\r4 ,ev5 by itself1 h[ev]1 x yields a good & v p]man5t blue4 ,x is n n[ kn[n h[ ! anci5ts prep>$ ! blue dye1 b x has be5 /at$ 7,dr4 ,pl[right7 t woad leaves :5 cov]$ ) boil+ wat]1 weight$ d[n = half-an-h\r1 ! wat] !n p\r$ (f treat$ ) cau/ic pota% & subsequ5tly ) hydro*loric acid1 yield a good indigo blue4 ,if ! "t ( infusion be increas$1 gre5s & br[ns are obta9$4 ,x is suppos$ t woad 0 vitrum ! dye ) :i* ,caes> said almo/ all ! ,britons /a9$ _! bodies4 ,x is said to gr[ ne> ,tewkesbury1 also ,banbury4 ,x 0 cultivat$ till q lately 9 ,l9coln%ire4 ,!re 7 f\r f>ms 9 #ahif2 "o at ,p>son ,drove1 ne> ,wisbe*1 two f>ms at ,holbea*1 & "o ne> ,bo/on4 ,indigo has q sup]s$$ x 9 comm]ce4 ,,logwood 7,bois de ,campe*e1 ,campea*y ,wood7 ,logwood is a dye wood f ,c5tral ,am]ica1 us$ = produc+ blues & purples on wool1 black on cotton & wool1 & black & violet on silk4 ,x is call$ by old dy]s "o ( ! ,less] ,dyes1 because ! col\r 0 said to lose all its brightness :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,b ) prop] mordants & ) c>eful dye+ ?is dye c produce fa/ & good col\rs4 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s gov]nm5t issu$ an enactm5t entirely =bidd+ ! use ( logwood4 ,! p]son s (f5d+ 0 liable to imprisonm5t & ! pillory4 ,! pr9cipal use = logwood is 9 mak+ blacks4 ,! logwood *ips %\ld be put 9 a bag & boil$ = #bj m9utes to #a_/b an h\r1 j be=e us+4 ,,recipes = ,,dye+ ) ,,logwood 7#a74 ,,black ,mordant ! wool = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs ) #c p] c5t ,*rome & #a p] c5t ,sulphuric ,acid4 ,wa% & dye 9 sep>ate ba? = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs ) #ej p] c5t ,logwood4 ,?is gives a blue black4 ,a dead black is got by add+ #e p] c5t ,fu/ic to ! dye ba?4 ,a gre5 black by add+ m fu/ic4 ,also by add+ #c to #d p] c5t ,alum to ! mordant+ ba? a /ill gre5] %ade c be obta9$4 ,a violet black is produc$ by add+ #b p] c5t ,/ann\s ,*loride to ! dye ba? & cont9ue boil+ = #bj m9utes4 7#b74 ,,lav5d] ,mordant ) #c p] c5t ,bi*romate ( ,pota% = #de m9utes & wa%4 ,dye ) #b p] c5t madd]1 #a p] c5t logwood4 ,ent] ! wool1 raise to ! boil & boil = #de m9utes4 ,! proportion ( logwood to madd] c be s adju/$ z to give v>i\s %ades ( cl>et to purple4 7#c74 ,a ,,fa/ ,,logwood ,,blue 7,highl& recipe47 ,mordant ) #c p] c5t ,bi*romate ( ,pota% & boil wool 9 x = #a-a_/b h\rs4 ,wa% & dry wool4 ,make a ba? ( #ae to #bj p] c5t logwood ) ab\t #c p] c5t *alk add$ to x4 ,boil ! wool = #a h\r1 wa% & dry4 ,! wool c be gre5$ by /eep+ x all night 9 a hot solution ( hea!r till ! desir$ t9t is obta9$4 7#d74 ,,rav5 ,,grey ,,= ,,wool ,mordant ) #be p] c5t ,alum = #a_/b h\r at boil+ heat2 !n take x out1 add to ! same liquor #e p] c5t copp]as1 & "w x at boil+ heat = #a_/b h\r4 ,!n wa%4 ,9 ano!r copp]1 boil #ej p] c5t logwood *ips = #bj m9utes4 ,put ! wool into ?is = #a_/b h\r2 !n return x into ! alum & copp]as = #aj to #ae m9utes4 ,wa% well4 7#e74 ,,d>k ,,r$ ,,purple ,,) ,,logwood 7#b-a_/b lbs47 ,mordant ) #be p] c5t alum & #a p] c5t cream ( t>t> = #a h\r4 ,let cool 9 ! mordant1 !n wr+ out & put away = #d to #e days4 ,dye ) #fj p] c5t logwood & #be p] c5t madd]4 ,boil up ! logwood & madd] 9 a sep>ate ba? & p\r ?r\gh a sieve into ! dye ba?4 ,ent] ! wool :5 w>m & br+ to ! boil4 ,boil f #a_/b h\r to #a-a_/b h\rs4 ,wa% ?or\ghly 9 s(t wat]4 7#f7 ,,purple 7,= #a lb47 ,mordant wool ) #a_/d lb4 alum & #a_/b oz4 t>t> = "o h\r2 wr+ out & put away 9 a bag = "s days4 ,dye ) #a_/d lb4 logwood = #a h\r4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote ,e3 ,if ! ,extract is us$ alone1 a mordant is n ess5tial4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,r$ ,,k]mes ,,co*9eal ,,madd] ,,k]mes ,k]mes1 or ,k]ms1 f :i* is got ! ,sc>let ( ,gra9 ( ! old dy]s1 is "o ( ! old insect dyes4 ,x is consid]$ by mo/ dy]s to be ! fir/ ( ! r$ dyes1 be+ m p]man5t ?an co*9eal & bright] ?an madd]4 ,9 ! #aj? c5tury x 0 9 g5]al use 9 ,europe4 ,! r$s ( ! ,go?ic tape/ries 7 dy$ ) x1 & are v p]man5t1 mu* m s ?an ! r$s ( lat] tape/ries1 :i* 7 dy$ ) co*9eal4 ,bancr(t says ,! ,k]mes r$ or sc>let1 ?\gh less vivid1 is m durable ?an t ( co*9eal4 ,! f9e blood-r$ se5 at ?is "t on old tape/ries 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ,europe1 unfad$1 ?\gh _m ( !m are two or ?ree hundr$ ye>s old1 7 all dy$ f ,k]mes1 ) ! alum9\s basis1 on wooll5 y>n4 ,k]mes consi/s ( ! dri$ bodies ( a small scale insect1 ,coccus ilicis1 f\nd pr9cipally on ! ilex oak1 9 ! ,s\? ( ,europe1 & /ill us$ !re4 ,william ,morris speaks ( ! ,al-k]mes or coccus :i* produces ) an ord9>y alum9\s mordant a c5tral r$1 true v]milion1 & ) a good dose ( acid a full sc>let1 :i* is ! sc>let ( ! ,middle ,ages1 & 0 us$ till ab\t ! ye> #afef1 :5 a ,dut* *emi/ discov]$ ! secret ( gett+ a sc>let f co*9eal by ! use ( t91 & s produc$ a *eap]1 bright] & ugli] sc>let4 ,k]mes is employ$ exactly l co*9eal4 ,x has a pleasant aromatic smell :i* x gives to ! wool :5 dy$ ) x4 ,,co*9eal ,! dri$ r$ bodies ( an insect 7,coccus ,cacti7 f\nd 9 ,mexico are nam$ ,co*9eal4 7#a74 ,,purple1 ,,crimson ,,& ,,sc>let 7,= #a lb4 wool47 ,mordant ) ,bi*romate ( ,pota% 7#c74 ,dye = #a to #b h\rs ) #c oz4 to #f oz4 co*9eal4 ,) alum mordant 7#be7 a crimson col\r is got4 ,) t9 mordant 7#aj7 a sc>let4 ,) iron mordant 7#f7 a purpli% slate or lilac4 7#b74 ,,sc>let ,mordant ) #f p] c5t ,/ann\s ,*loride & #d p] c5t ,cream ( ,t>t>1 boil+ #a h\r4 ,dye ) #ae to #bj p] c5t ,co*9eal1 boil = #a h\r4 ,ent] 9 bo? mordant & dye ba?1 cool1 & raise sl[ly to ! boil4 ,to obta9 a yell[ %ade ( sc>let1 a small quantity ( ,flav91 ,fu/ic1 or o!r yell[ dye may be add$ to ! dye ba?4 7#c74 ,,sc>let 7#a lb47 ,into ! same ba?1 put #a oz4 t91 #a_/h oz4 oxalic acid1 #d oz4 co*9eal4 ,ent] silk & boil = #a h\r4 ,) less oxalic acid1 a less sc>let col\r w be obta9$4 7#d74 ,,crimson ,mordant ) #bj p] c5t alum or ) #ae p] c5t alum & #e p] c5t ,t>t>4 ,dye 9 sep>ate ba?1 aft] well wa%+1 ) #h to #ae p] c5t co*9eal4 ,boil #a h\r4 ,a slight addition ( ammonia to ! dye ba? r5d]s ! %ade blu]4 7#e74 ,,rose ,,r$ 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) ,alum4 ,dye ) #b oz4 ,madd]1 #b-a_/b ozs4 ,co*9eal1 #a_/d oz4 ,oxalic ,acid & #a_/b oz4 t94 7#f74 ,,purple 7= #e lbs47 ,mordant ) #c ozs4 ,*rome4 ,wa%4 ,dye = #b to #c h\rs ) #ac ozs4 ,co*9eal1 :i* has be5 boil$ = #aj m9utes be=e ent]+ wool4 ,a tablespoonful ( v9eg> add$ to ! dye ba? helps ! col\r4 ,wa% ?or\ghly4 ,,madd] ,madd] consi/s ( ! gr\nd-up dri$ roots ( a plant ,rubia t9ctorum1 cultivat$ 9 ,france1 ,holl& & o!r p>ts ( ,europe1 z well z 9 ,india4 ,madd] is "o ( ! be/ & fa/e/ dyes4 ,x is us$ also 9 comb9ation ) o!r dyes to produce comp\nd col\rs4 ,! gradual rais+ ( ! temp]ature ( ! dye ba? is ess5tial 9 ord] to develop ! full col\r+ p[] ( madd]2 long boil+ %\ld be avoid$1 z x dulls ! col\r4 ,if ! wat] is defici5t 9 lime1 bright] %ades are got by add+ a little gr\nd *alk to ! dye ba?1 #a to #b p] c5t4 ,madd] is difficult to dye z x easily rubs (f & ! foll[+ po9ts %\ld be not$4 7#a74 ,! ba?s %\ld be q clean4 ,ru/y ba?s mu/ n be us$4 7#b74 ,be=e dye+1 ! wool mu/ be ?or\ghly wa%$ s z to get rid ( all sup]flu\s mordant4 7#c74 ,a h&ful ( bran to ! p\nd ( wool1 helps to bright5 ! col\r4 7#d74 ,! wool %\ld be ent]$ into a tepid dye ba? & rais$ to boil+ 9 #a h\r & boil$ = #aj m9utes or less4 7#a7 ,,r$ ,mordant ) #a_/d lb4 ,alum to ! p\nd ( wool4 ,boil = #a h\r1 let cool 9 mordant1 wr+ out & put away 9 bag = #c or #d days4 ,wa% v ?or\ghly4 ,!n dye ) #e to #h ozs4 madd] accord+ to dep? ( col\r requir$1 & a h&ful ( bran = e p\nd ( wool4 ,ent] 9 cool ba? & br+ sl[ly to ! boil 9 an h\r or m4 ,boil = a few m9utes4 7#b7 ,,rose ,,r$ ,mordant ) ,alum4 ,dye ) #d to #d-a_/b ozs4 madd] to lb4 wool & a v small quantity ( logwood 7#a_/b oz4 to #a oz4 to #c or #d lbs4 ( wool74 7#c7 ,,br[n 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #b-a_/b ozs4 ,copp] ,sulphate4 ,dye ) #b ozs4 to #d ozs4 ,madd] accord+ to dep? ( col\r requir$4 ,= yell[ br[n add a small quantity ( fu/ic 7#a_/d oz4 to ! lb47 7#d7 ,,r$ ,,br[n ,mordant wool ) #c ,*rome 7see p4 #i71 wa% well & dye ) #e to #h ozs4 madd]1 br++ sl[ly to ! boil1 & boil = #a h\r4 ,v>i\s %ades ( br[ni% r$ c be got by a mixture ( madd]1 fu/ic & logwood ) a ,*rome mordant 9 v>y+ proportions su* z #bh p] c5t ,madd]1 #ab p] c5t ,fu/ic1 #a p] c5t ,logwood = a br[ni% cl>et4 #e p] c5t ,madd]1 #d p] c5t ,fu/ic1 #a_/b p] c5t ,logwood = tan4 ,,brazil ,,woods ,v>i\s legum9\s trees1 includ+ lima1 sapan & pea* wood1 dye r$ ) alum & t>t>1 & a purpli% slate col\r ) bi*romate ( pota%4 ,"s old dy]s use ,brazil wood to height5 ! r$ ( madd]4 ,,camwood1 ,,b>wood1 ,,s&alwood1 or ,,s&]swood1 are *iefly us$ 9 wool dye+1 ) o!r dye woods 7su* z ,old ,fu/ic1 & logwood7 = br[ns4 ,!y dye good b fugitive r$ ) bi*romate ( pota%1 or alum4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,yell[ ,,weld ,,old ,,fu/ic ,,turm]ic ,,qu]citron ,,dy]',s ,,broom ,,hea!r ,,& ,,o!r ,,yell[ ,,dyes ,weld1 ,res$a luteola1 is an annual plant gr[+ 9 wa/e places4 ,! :ole plant is us$ = dye+ except ! root4 ,x is ! be/ & fa/e/ ( ! yell[ natural dyes4 ,! plant is ga!r$ 9 ,june & ,july1 x is !n c>efully dri$ 9 ! %ade & ti$ up 9 bundles4 ,:5 ne$$ = dye+ x is brok5 into pieces or *opp$ f9ely1 ! roots be+ disc>d$1 & a decoction is made by boil+ x up 9 wat] = ab\t #c_/d h\r4 ,x gives a bright yell[ ) alum & t>t> z mordant4 ,) *rome x yields an old gold %ade2 ) t9 x produces m orange col\r$ yell[s2 ) copp] & iron1 olive %ades4 ,! quantity ( weld us$ mu/ be det]m9$ by ! dep? ( col\r requir$4 ,two p] c5t ( /ann\s *loride add$ to ! mordant gives brilliancy & fa/ness to ! col\r4 ,bright & fa/ orange yell[s are got by mordant+ ) #h p] c5t /ann\s *loride in/ead ( alum4 ,) #f p] c5t copp] sulphate & #h p] c5t *alk1 weld gives a good orange yell[4 ,wool mordant$ ) #d p] c5t ( f]r\s sulphate & #aj p] c5t t>t> & dy$ 9 a sep>ate ba? ) weld ) #h p] c5t *alk1 takes a good olive yell[4 #h p] c5t ( alum is (t5 us$ = mordant = weld4 ,a little *alk add$ to ! dye ba? makes ! col\r m int5se2 common salt makes ! col\r ri*] & deep]4 ,weld is ( great] antiquity ?an mo/1 if n all1 o!r natural yell[ dyes4 ,x is cultivat$ = dye+ 9 ,france1 ,g]many & ,italy4 ,x is important z x dyes silk ) a fa/ col\r4 7#a7 ,,old ,,gold ,mordant ) #b p] c5t *rome & dye ) #fj p] c5t ( weld 9 a sep>ate ba?4 #c p] c5t *alk adds to int5sity ( col\r4 7#b7 ,,yell[ ,mordant ) alum1 & dye ) #a lb4 ( weld = e p\nd ( wool4 ,common salt deep5s ! col\r4 ,if alum is add$ to ! dye ba?1 ! col\r becomes pal] & m lively4 ,sulphate ( iron incl9es x to br[n4 7#c7 ,,orange ,mordant ) alum ) a little weld 9 ! ba?4 ,dye ) weld4 ,add teaspoonful ( t9 to ! dye ba?4 ,boil 9 sep>ate ba? ) #a_/d oz4 madd] or co*9eal to ! p\nd4 ,,old ,,fu/ic ,fu/ic is ! wood ( ,morus t9ctoria1 a tree ( ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally = wool4 ,) ,bi*romate ( ,pota% z mordant1 ,old ,fu/ic gives old gold col\r4 ,) alum x gives yell[1 incl9+ to lemon yell[4 ,! brighte/ yell[s are got f x by mordant+ ) t94 ,) copp] sulphate x yields olive col\rs 7#d to #e p] c5t copp] sulphate & #c to #d p] c5t t>t>74 ,) f]r\s sulphate d>k] olives are obta9$ 7#h p] c5t f]r\s sulphate74 ,= silk x does n produce z bright yell[s z weld1 b c be us$ = v>i\s %ades ( gre5 & olive4 ,prolong$ dye+ %\ld always be avoid$1 z ! yell[s are apt to become br[ni% & dull4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,old ,,fu/ic 7#a7 ,,old ,,gold ,boil ! wool ) #c to #d p] c5t *rome = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs4 ,wa%1 & dye 9 a sep>ate ba? = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs at #ajj deg4,c4 ) #bj to #hj p] c5t ( old fu/ic4 7#b7 ,,old ,,gold ,mordant ) #c p] c5t *rome1 = #c_/d h\r & wa%4 ,dye ) #bd p] c5t fu/ic & #d p] c5t madd] = #de m9utes4 7#c7 ,,bright ,,yell[ ,mordant wool ) #h p] c5t ( /ann\s *loride = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs1 & #h p] c5t ( t>t>4 ,wa%1 & dye ) #bj to #dj p] c5t ( fu/ic4 7#d7 ,,gre5i% ,,yell[ ,mordant wool ) #c p] c5t *rome1 = #c_/d h\r & wa%4 ,dye ) #f p] c5t fu/ic1 #cc p] c5t logwood4 ,boil #c_/d h\r4 7#e7 ,,yell[ ,mordant ) #be p] c5t alum1 wa% aft] lay+ by = #b days1 dye ) #e to #f oz4 fu/ic to lb4 ,,turm]ic ,turm]ic is a p[d] obta9$ f ! gr\nd-up tub]s ( ,curcuma t9ctoria1 a plant f\nd 9 ,india & o!r ,ea/]n c\ntries4 ,x gives a brilliant orange yell[1 b has little p]man5ce4 ,x is "o ( ! sub/antive col\rs & does n ne$ any mordant4 ,cotton has a /rong attraction = x1 & is simply dy$ by work+ 9 a solution ( ,turm]ic at #fj deg4,c4 = ab\t #a_/b h\r4 ,) silk & wool x gives a bright] col\r if mordant$ ) alum or t94 ,boil+ %\ld be avoid$4 ,x is us$ sometimes = deep5+ ! col\r ( ,fu/ic or ,weld1 b its use is n recomm5d$1 z al?\gh x gives v beautiful col\rs1 x is a fugitive dye4 ,,qu]citron ,qu]citron is ! inn] b>k ( ! ,qu]cus ,nigra or ,q4 t9ctoria1 a species ( oak gr[+ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,x 0 fir/ introduc$ into ,engl& by ,bancr(t 9 #agge z a *eap sub/itute = weld4 ,he says1 ,! wool %\ld be boil$ = ! space ( #a or #a-a_/d h\rs ) "o six? or "o eigh? ( its weight ( alum2 !n1 )\t be+ r9s$1 x %\ld be put into a dye+ vessel ) clean wat] & also z _m p\nds ( p[d]$ b>k 7ti$ up 9 bag7 z !re 7 us$ ( alum to prep>e ! wool1 :i* is !n to be turn$ 9 ! boil+ liquor until ! col\r appe>s to h tak5 suffici5tly3 & !n ab\t #a lb4 clean p[d]$ *alk = e #ajj lbs4 ( wool may be mix$ ) ! dye+ liquor & ! op]ation cont9u$ #h or #aj m9utes long]1 :5 ! yell[ w h become bo? light] & bright] by ?is addition ( *alk4 ,flav9 is extract ( ,qu]citron b>k1 & is mu* us$ = bright yell[ ) t94 ,,yell[ 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) alum4 ,dye ) #a oz4 ,flav94 ,,orange ,,) ,,flav9 ,,or ,,qu]citron 7#a lb47 ,put into ba? fir/ #a_/b oz4 ,cream ( ,t>t>4 ,!n #c_/d oz4 t9 mix$ ) wat] 7important to ent] ! ,t>t> fir/74 ,ent] y>n & boil = #de m9utes4 ,9 ! meantime h mix$ up #a_/b oz4 ,flav9 & #a_/b oz4 to #c_/d oz4 ,co*9eal 7accord+ to dep? ( orange requir$7 ) #a_/d oz4 t9 ) a little w>m wat]4 ,remove y>n1 ent] flav91 madd] & t91 take (f ! boil1 ent] y>n & /ir well4 ,boil #cj m9utes4 ,,b>b]ry ,! roots & b>k ( ,b]b]is ,vulg>is is us$ pr9cipally = silk dye+1 )\t a mordant4 ,! silk is work$ at #ej deg4 to #fj deg4,c4 9 a solution ( ! dye wood slightly acidifi$ ) sulphuric1 acetic or t>t>ic acid4 ,= d>k %ades mordant ) /ann\s *loride4 ,,dy]',s ,,broom ,g5i/a ,t9ctoria4 ,! plant gr[s on wa/e gr\nd4 ,x %\ld be pick$ 9 ,june or ,july & dri$4 ,x c be us$ ) an alum & t>t> mordant & gives a good bright yell[4 ,x is call$ gre5+ we$ & us$ to be mu* us$ = gre5+ blue wool4 ,,privet ,ligu/rum ,vulg>e4 ,! leaves dye a good fa/ yell[ ) alum & t>t>4 ,,hea!r ,mo/ ( ! hea!rs make a yell[ dye1 b ! "o *iefly us$ is ! ,l+1 ,calluna vulg>is4 ,! tips are ga!r$ j be=e fl[]+4 ,!y are boil$ 9 wat] = ab\t half-an-h\r4 ,! wool1 previ\sly mordant$ ) alum or *rome accord+ to ! %ade ( yell[ want$1 is put into ! dye ba? ) ! boil+ liquor1 :i* has be5 /ra9$4 ,x is !n cov]$ up closely & left till ! morn+4 ,or ! wool c be boil$ 9 ! hea!r liquor till ! desir$ col\r is obta9$4 ,,onion ,,sk9s ,prep>e by mordant+ ) alum4 ,take a suffici5t quantity ( onion sk9s & boil = #cj m9utes4 ,?is gives a good yell[4 ,! addition ( t9 w make ! col\r m orange4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,br[n ,,& ,,black ,,cate*u ,,ald] ,,b>k ,,suma* ,,walnut ,,peat ,,soot ,,logwood ,,& ,,o!r ,,dyes ,,cate*u ,cate*u 7,cut*7 is an old ,indian dye = cotton4 ,x c also be us$ = wool & silk1 & gives a f9e ri* br[n4 ,x is obta9$ f ! wood ( v>i\s species ( ,areca1 ,acacia & ,mimosa trees4 ,bombay ,cate*u is consid]$ be/ = dye+ purposes4 ,cate*u is soluble 9 boil+ wat]4 ,x is l>gely us$ by ! cotton dy] = br[n1 olive1 drab1 grey & black4 7,see pp4 #df1 #dg1 #dh47 ,,light ,,grey 7,= #f lbs47 #a oz4 cut*1 #a oz4 iron4 ,boil = #a_/b an h\r 9 ! cut*1 !n put into boil+ iron1 be+ v c>eful to /ir well4 ,wa% v ?or\ghly4 ,^! proportions c be v>i$ accord+ to ! %ade ( grey requir$2 ! m iron makes ! col\r br[n]1 ! m cut* ! blu] grey4 ,,cate*u ,,br[n ,! wool is boil$ = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs1 ) #aj to #bj p] c5t cate*u1 !n sadd5 ) #b to #d p] c5t ( copp] sulphate1 f]r\s sulphate1 or *rome1 at #ajj deg4,c41 9 a sep>ate ba? = #a_/b h\r4 ,,ald] ,,b>k ,! b>k & twigs ( ald] are us$ = dye+ br[n & black4 ,= #a lb4 wool use #a lb4 ald] b>k4 ,boil ! wool ) x = #b h\rs1 :5 x %\ld be a dull r$di% br[n4 ,add #a_/b oz4 copp] z = e p\nd ( wool = black4 ,,suma* ,suma* is ! gr\nd up leaves & twigs ( ! ,rhus cor>ia gr[+ 9 ,s\!rn ,europe4 ,x dyes wool a yell[ & a yell[ br[n1 b x is *iefly us$ 9 cotton dye+4 ,,walnut ,! gre5 %ell ( ! walnut fruit & ! root are us$ = dye+ br[n4 ,! husks to be us$ = dye+ mu/ be collect$ gre5 & fre%1 !n cov]$ ) wat] & kept f ! light to prev5t !m oxidiz+4 ,9 ! walnut tree !re is an a/r+5t col\rless sub/ance :i* gives a gre5i% yell[ dye4 ,?is has ! prop]ty ( absorb+ oxyg5 f ! air & turn+ d>k br[n4 ,x is only ! unoxidiz$ pale gre5i% /uff t c act z ! dye1 ! d>k br[n itself has no aff9ity = ! wool4 ,acids %\ld be add$ to ! dye ba? to prev5t oxidization4 ,)\t a mordant ! col\r is q fa/1 b if ! wool is mordant$ ) alum a bright] & ri*] col\r is got4 ,:5 us$ !y are boil$ 9 wat] = #a_/d h\r1 !n ! wool is ent]$ & boil$ till ! col\r is obta9$4 ,long boil+ is n good z x makes ! wool h>%4 ,x is mu* us$ z a sadd5+ ag5t2 t is1 = d>k5+ o!r col\rs4 ,! be/ & mo/ endur+ blacks 7 done ) ?is simple dye /uff1 ! goods be+ fir/ dy$ 9 ! indigo or woad vat till !y 7 a v d>k blue1 & !n br[n$ into black by means ( ! walnut root4--,william ,morris4 ,,peat ,,soot gives a good %ade ( br[n to wool4 ,boil ! wool = #a to #b h\rs ) peat soot4 ,c>eful wa%+ is requir$ 9 sev]al *anges ( wat]4 ,x is us$ sometimes = produc+ a hazel col\r1 aft] ! wool has be5 dy$ ) weld & madd]4 ,,oak ,,b>k4 ,mordant ) alum & dye 9 a decoction ( oak b>k4 ,,onion ,,sk9s4 7,br[n47 ,mordant ! wool ) alum4 ,dry+ two or ?ree times 9 betwe5 makes ! col\r m durable4 ,dry4 ,wa%4 ,boil a quantity ( onion sk9s1 & cool2 !n put 9 wool & boil lightly = #a_/b an h\r to #a h\r2 !n keep w>m = a :ile4 ,wr+ out & wa%4 ,,black4 ,mordant ) #c ,bi*romate ( ,pota% = #de m9utes4 ,dye ) #a oz4 ,hemat9 cry/als1 #c_/d oz4 madd]1 #a_/b oz4 ,p]sian b]ries4 ,aft] boil+ = #a h\r remove wool & add #a_/d oz4 cream ( t>t>1 #a oz4 co*9eal1 #c_/d oz4 iron1 #a_/b oz4 copp] sulphate4 ,return wool & boil aga9 = #a_/b h\r4 ,wa% 9 soap4 ,,v>i\s ,,recipes ,,madd] = ,,br[n4 7#a lb4 wool47 ,mordant ) #a oz4 copp]as & #a oz4 cream ( t>t>4 ,dye ) #f ozs4 madd]4 ,,madd]1 etc41 = ,,fr5* ,,br[n4 ,mordant ) #c p] c5t *rome4 ,dye ) #h p] c5t fu/ic1 #b p] c5t madd]1 #a p] c5t cudbe>1 #b p] c5t t>t>4 ,if n d>k en\gh add #a p] c5t logwood4 ,boil = #a_/b h\r4 ,wa% & dry4 ,,tan ,,%ade4 7#f-a_/b lbs4 wool47 ,mordant ) #c ozs4 ,*rome = #de m9utes & wa% 9 cold wat]4 ,boil = #a_/b h\r 9 a bag #e oz4 madd]1 #d oz4 ,fu/ic1 #a_/b oz4 logwood4 ,ent] ! wool1 raise to ! boil1 & boil = #de m9utes4 ,by alt]+ ! proportions ( madd] & fu/ic v>i\s %ades ( br[n c be got4 ,,gre5i% ,,black4 7,= #a lb47 ,mordant ) #c p] c5t ,*rome4 ,dye ) #b ozs4 ,fu/ic1 #b ozs4 logwood1 #a oz4 madd]1 & #a oz4 copp]as4 ,,d>k ,,gre5i%-,,br[n4 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #c p] c5t *rome4 ,dye ) #b ozs4 logwood1 #d ozs4 madd]1 #a oz4 fu/ic1 #a-a_/b ozs4 copp]as4 ,boil = #a h\r4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,gre5 ,gre5 results f ! mix+ ( blue & yell[ 9 v>y+ proportions accord+ to ! %ade ( col\r requir$4 ,e dy] has 8 p>ticul> yell[ we$ ) :i* he gre5s 8 blue dy$ /uff4 ,b ! be/ gre5s are und\bt$ly got f weld & fu/ic4 ,! wool is fir/ dy$ 9 ! blue vat2 !n wa%$ & dri$2 !n aft] mordant+1 dy$ 9 ! yell[ ba?4 ,?is me?od is n arbitr>y z "s dy]s consid] a bett] gre5 is got by dye+ x yell[ be=e ! blue4 ,b ! fir/ me?od produces ! fa/e/ & brighte/ gre5s z ! alum+ aft] ! blue vat cle>s ! wool ( ! loose p>ticles ( indigo & seems to fix ! col\r4 ,if a bright yell[ gre5 is want$1 !n mordant ) alum aft] ! indigo ba?2 if olive gre51 !n mordant ) *rome4 ,! wool c be dy$ blue = gre5 9 ?ree diff]5t ways3--#a/ 9 ! ,indigo vat1 #bnd ) ,indigo ,extract ) ,alum mordant1 #crd ) logwood ) ,*rome mordant4 ,= a good bright gre51 dye ! wool a r light blue1 !n wa% & dry2 ,mordant ) alum1 gre5 x ) a good yell[ dye1 su* z weld or fu/ic1 v>y+ ! proportion ( ea* accord+ to ! %ade ( gre5 requir$4 ,hea!r tips1 dy]'s broom1 dock roots1 popl> leaves1 saw wort are also good yell[s = dye+ gre54 ,if ,indigo ,extract is us$ = ! blue1 fu/ic is ! be/ yell[ = gre5+1 its col\r is less affect$ by ! sulphuric acid ?an o!r yell[s4 ,accord+ to ,bancr(t1 ,qu]citron is ! yell[ above all o!rs = dye+ gre5s4 ,he says3--,! mo/ beautiful ,saxon gre5s may be produc$ v *eaply & exp$iti\sly by comb9+ ! lively yell[ :i* results f ,qu]citron b>k1 murio sulphate ( t9 & alum1 ) ! blue af=d$ by ,indigo :5 dissolv$ 9 sulphuric acid1 z = dye+ ! ,saxon ,blue4 ,= a full bodi$ gre5 he says #f or #h lbs4 ( p[d]$ b>k %\ld be put into a dye+ vessel = e #ajj lbs4 wool1 ) a simil> quantity ( wat]3 ,:5 x beg9s to boil1 #f lbs4 murio-sulphate ( t9 %\ld be add$ 7) ! usual precaution7 & a few m9utes aft]w>ds #d lbs4 alum3 ^! hav+ boil$ #e or #f m9utes1 cold wat] %\ld be add$1 & !n z mu* sulphate ( ,indigo z ne$$ = ! %ade ( gre5 to be dy$1 /irr+ ?or\ghly4 ,! wool is !n put into ! liquor & /irr$ briskly = half an h\r4 ,x is be/ to keep ! wat] j at ! boil+ po9t4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,gre5 7#a7 ,,gre5 ,,) ,,qu]citron ,,= ,,wool ,dye ! wool blue 9 ! indigo vat1 wa% well4 ,= #ajj p>ts ( wool put #c ( *alk & #aj or #ab ( alum4 ,boil wool 9 ?is #a h\r4 ,!n to same ba? add #aj to #ab p>ts qu]citron & cont9ue boil+ = #ae m9utes1 !n add #a "p ( *alk1 ?is addition is repeat$ at int]vals ( #f to #h m9utes till a f9e gre5 is br\ght out4 7#b7 ,,) ,,indigo ,,extract ,,& ,,weld ,,= ,,wool ,mordant #a lb4 wool ) #d ozs4 alum & #a_/b oz4 cream ( t>t>4 ,dye blue ) suffici5cy ( indigo extract1 wa% & dry4 ,prep>e a dye ba? ) weld :i* has be5 previ\sly *opp$ up & boil$4 ,ent] wool & boil = half an h\r or m4 7#c7 ,,gre5 ,,= ,,wool ,mordant ) alum & cream ( t>t>1 add to ! mordant+ ba? a little weld or fu/ic4 ,dye ) #f ozs4 fu/ic 7or weld74 ,dye 9 a sep>ate ba? ) indigo extract1 a r blu] gre5 ?an is want$4 ,!n put into a yell[ ba? till ! "r %ade ( gre5 is got4 7#d7 ,,grass ,,gre5 ,= #a lb4 wool3 #a-a_/b oz4 alum1 #a_/b oz4 sulphuric acid1 #a_/b oz4 salt1 #a_/d oz4 ,t9 cry/als4 ,dissolve t9 9 sep>ate saucepan & mix half ( x ) #a_/d oz4 ,flav91 add bo? to ! ba? toge!r ) indigo extract 7#a_/b tablespoonful74 ,:5 hot ent] y>n & boil h>d = #a to #a-a_/b h\rs4 ,x turns a gre5 :5 expos$ to air4 ,wa% v ?or\ghly4 7#e7 ,,jade ,,gre5 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #a_/c oz4 ,cream ( ,t>t> & #d oz4 ,alum = #a_/b h\r4 ,take out wool & air4 ,cool ba? a little & add half ! am\nt ( ! indigo extract to be us$ 7accord+ to %ade ( gre5 requir$1 #a_/b oz4 indigo extract makes a good col\r74 ,ent] wool & /ir rapidly = #e m9utes or s )\t boil+4 ,take out wool4 ,mix 9 ! re/ ( ! indigo extract4 ,ent] wool & boil = #aj m9utes4 ,take out wool4 ,?r[ away a qu>t] ( ! wat] & add "s ) #c_/d oz4 fu/ic extract4 ,ent] wool & boil = #a_/b h\r to an h\r4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,! ,,dye+ ,,( ,,cotton ,! dye+ ( cotton is difficult ) ! natural dye /uffs1 !re are only a few col\rs :i* c be said to be satisfactory4 ,! fa/e/ kn[n 9 e>li] days 0 ,turkey r$1 a long & difficult process ) madd] & n v practical = ! small dy]4 ,x _h its orig9 9 ,india :]e x is /ill us$2 r$ ,indian cotton is "o ( ! fa/e/ col\rs kn[n4 ,cate*u is ano!r excell5t cotton dye us$ = v>i\s %ades ( br[n1 grey & black4 ,a cold indigo vat is us$ = blue1 ,indigo ,extract is n us$4 ,yell[s c be got ) weld1 flav91 turm]ic 7= :i* cotton has a /rong attraction71 & fu/ic4 ,great c>e is to be tak5 9 dye+ yell[ z x is n v fa/ to light4 ,gre5s may be got by dye+ 9 ! indigo vat & !n ) a yell[ recipe1 purples f logwood ) t9 mordant1 b purples & gre5s are unsatisfactory1 & n suitable to ! vegetable dy]4 ,,boil+ ,,out ,be=e dye+ cotton 9 ! raw /ate1 or 9 y>n spun direct f ! raw /ate1 x mu/ be boil$ = sev]al h\rs to extract its natural impurities4 ,= d>k col\rs wat] alone may be us$1 b = light & bright col\rs a weak solution ( c>bonate ( soda1 #e2 or ( cau/ic soda1 #b1 %\ld be us$4 ,,mordants ,alum4 ,alum 7#a_/d weight ( cotton7 is dissolv$ 9 hot wat] ) c>bonate ( soda cry/als1 or o!r alkali 7#a_/d weight ( alum72 "w cotton 9 ! solution1 /eep = sev]al h\rs or ov]night4 ,!n well wa%4 ,alum9ium acetate solution z = silk 7page #ef7 may be us$4 ,aft] dry+1 ! cotton may be pass$ ?r\gh a fix+ solution ( "s alkali1 = examples see page #ej4 ,be=e mordant+ ) alum1 ! cotton is (t5 prep>$ ) tannic acid4 ,iron4 ,iron is usually employ$ z a sadd5+ ag5t1 i4e4 ! cotton aft] dye+ is /eep$ 9 a cold solution ( ! mordant4 ,a fur!r use is 9 dye+ black1 :5 ! cotton1 aft] be+ prep>$ ) tann91 is /eep$ 9 a cold solution ( ,iron4 ,?is process by itself gives a d>k col\r be=e any dye is us$4 ,t94 ,t9 is r>ely us$ alone z a mordant = cotton b bright5s ! col\r 9 comb9ation ) o!r mordants4 ,*rome4 ,*rome is us$ = br[ns & o!r col\rs ) ,cate*u4 ,aft] boil+ 9 a solution ( ! dye /uff1 boil a %ort "t 9 *rome solution1 ?is oxidizes ! col\r+ matt] ( ! ,cate*u4 ,copp]4 ,copp] is sometimes add$ 9 small quantities to ! dye ba? = br[n or yell[ to v>y ! %ade4 ,tann9 7,tannic acid74 ,cotton & l95 /rongly attract tann9 & :5 prep>$ ) x !y are able to reta9 dyes p]man5tly4 ,cotton saturat$ ) tann9 attracts ! dye /uff m rapidly1 & holds x4 ,tannic acid is ! be/ tann9 = mordant+ z x is ! pure/ & is free f any o!r col\r+ matt]2 x is1 !re=e1 us$ = pale & bright %ades4 ,b = d>k %ades1 sub/ances conta9+ tannic acid are us$1 su* z suma*1 myrobalans1 valonia1 divi-divi1 oak galls1 *e/nut 7#h to #aj p] c5t tann971 cate*u4 ,cotton & l95 are prep>$ ) tann9 aft] !y h be5 ?r\gh ! requir$ cleans+1 &1 if necess>y1 blea*+ op]ations4 ,a ba? is prep>$ ) #b to #e p] c5t ( tannic acid ( ! weight ( ! cotton1 & a suffici5t quantity ( wat]4 ,= d>k %ades1 #e to #aj p] c5t %\ld be us$4 ,! ba? is us$ ei!r hot or cold4 ,x %\ld n be above #fj deg4,c4 ,! cotton is work$ 9 ?is = "s "t1 & !n left to soak = #c to #ab h\rs1 :ile ! ba? cools4 ,x is !n wrung out & slightly wa%$4 ,! foll[+ gives ! relative proportions ( ! v>i\s sub/ances conta9+ tann93--#a lb4 tannic acid equals #d lbs4 suma*1 #ah lbs4 myrobalans1 #ad lbs4 divi-divi1 #aa lbs4 oak galls4 ,examples f v>i\s recipes3 ,= #aj lbs4 cotton use #ab ozs4 tannic acid4 #ej #aj lbs4 suma*4 #dj #aj lbs4 #bj #b lbs4 yell[ 7or black7 cate*u4 #bj #c lbs4 cate*u ) #c ozs4 blue vitriol4 ,"s recipes soak ! cotton #bd h\rs1 o!rs #dh4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ 7#a7 ,,indigo ,,vat ,take #c oz4 well gr\nd indigo1 mix into a pa/e ) hot wat]4 ,slake #c oz4 ,quicklime & boil ) #f oz4 ,pota% or ,soda a% 9 suffici5t wat]1 let x settle1 p\r (f ! cle> liquor 9 :i* dissolve ! indigo pa/e1 boil or keep hot #bd h\rs2 x %\ld !n h ! consi/5cy ( ?ick cream1 ) mu* fro?4 ,dur+ ! boil+1 slake ano!r #c oz4 quicklime1 boil 9 a p9t ( wat] = #ae m9utes1 let settle1 p\r (f ! cle> liquor 9 :i* dissolve #d to #e oz4 gre5 copp]as4 ,add ! indigo & copp]as solutions to #e gallons wat]1 /ir well1 let vat re/1 /ir once or twice dur+ #bd h\rs or until x appe> ready = dye+4 ,be=e use x %\ld be /irr$ & let /& #b h\rs4 ,x %\ld be a cle> yell[i% gre5 ) mu* scum4 ,! cotton to be dy$ %\ld be ent]$ 9 dips ( increas+ l5g?s ( "t1 z #a1 #e1 #aj1 #bj m9utes1 & air$ 9 betwe51 accord+ to dep? ( %ade requir$4 ,x %\ld !n be well wa%$1 pass+ ?r\gh wat] slightly acidulat$ ) ,sulphuric acid 7a teaspoonful to #a gallon74 ,:5 ?is vat appe>s exhau/$ & turns a d>k col\r x may be reviv$ by add+ #b or #c oz4 ,gre5 ,copp]as dissolv$ z be=e4 ,:5 aga9 exhau/$1 m ( all ! +r$i5ts mu/ be add$4 7#b7 ,,lime ,,copp]as ,,vat #b oz4 ,indigo1 #d oz4 ,copp]as1 #e oz4 ,quicklime 7fre%74 ,mix ,indigo into a pa/e ) hot wat]4 ,dissolve copp]as 9 hot wat]4 ,slake lime4 ,fill e>!nw>e j> ) ab\t #e gallons cold wat] & add ! ,indigo1 copp]as & slak$ lime 9 t ord]4 ,/ir well1 cov] & let /& till next day or until vat is 9 prop] condition2 x %\ld be cle> br[ni% yell[ ) possible blue scum4 ,!re w be "s s$im5t4 ,! dye+ process is z 9 7#a74 7#c7 ,,r$ 7,= #a lb4 cotton47 ,! ,turkey ,r$ process is long & difficult4 7#a7 ,boil y>n #f to #h h\rs 9 a solution ( c>bonate ( soda1 #a-a_/b oz41 wa% well & dry4 7#b7 ,prep>e a solution ( #b fluid ozs4 ,turkey ,r$ oil1 #b ozs4 c>bonate ( soda at #ajj deg4,f41 "w cotton 9 ?is till ?or\ghly saturat$1 wr+ out1 dry4 7#c7 ,repeat ,no4 #b4 7#d7 ,repeat ,no4 #b4 7#e7 ,/eep #c or #d h\rs 9 solution ( #a oz4 c>bonate ( soda at #ajj deg4,f41 wr+ out1 dry4 7#f7 ,repeat ,no4 #e ) a slight increase ( soda4 7#g7 z ,no4 #f4 7#h7 ,/eep #aj h\rs 9 wat] at #ajj deg4,f41 dry4 ,! cotton %\ld n[ be cle> :ite4 7#i7 ,/eep #d h\rs 9 solution ( #a-a_/b oz4 tannic acid or #d oz4 ,galls1 at #ajj deg4,f41 wr+ out1 dry4 7#aj7 ,/eep #bd h\rs 9 solution made by dissolv+ #aj oz4 alum 9 hot wat]1 & sl[ly add+ #b-a_/b oz4 c>bonate ( soda cry/als1 wr+ out & dry4 ,! cotton is n[ grey col\r$4 7#aa7 ,dye ) #b lbs4 madd]4 ,br+ sl[ly to ! boil1 boil = #a h\r1 a :ite scum on ! surface d5otes ! cotton has absorb$ all its col\r4 ,a teaspoonful ( *alk may be add$ to ! dye-ba?4 ,! cotton is n[ d>k cl>et col\r4 7#ab7 ,to bright51 boil #c or #d h\rs 9 a solution ( #a_/b oz4 c>bonate ( soda cry/als & #a_/b oz4 soap4 ,! ba? %\ld be cov]$1 except = a small outlet = ! /eam :i* o!rwise %\ld be reta9$ z mu* z possible4 7#ac7 ,! cotton c be fur!r bright5$ by boil+ ) #a_/b oz4 soap & a teaspoonful ( ,t94 ,wa% & dry4 7#d7 ,,r$ 7,= #a lb47 ,aft] boil+ out 9 soda1 wa% & dry4 ,/eep ov]night 9 a hot ba? ( #a-a_/b oz4 ,tannic acid or #d oz4 ,galls1 dry1 /eep 9 cold solution ( #a_/d lb4 alum & #a_/b oz4 *alk1 dry1 add #b oz4 m alum to solution & /eep z be=e1 wa% & dry4 ,dry ) #ab oz4 ,madd]1 br+ to boil 9 #a h\r & boil a few m9utes1 r9se1 re-dye z above1 pass ?r\gh w>m soap ba?1 #b oz41 wa% & dry4 7#e7 ,,yell[ 7,= #a lb47 ,mordant twice 9 ,alum9ium acetate1 z describ$ = silk 7page #gc71 or 9 #a_/d lb4 alum & #a-a_/b oz4 *alk1 /eep+ 9 cold solution4 ,pass ?r\gh weak ba? ( *loride ( lime1 wa%1 dry4 ,dye ) #b-a_/b lbs4 weld & #a_/b oz4 copp] sulphate1 boil = #a h\r1 !n boil ) soap4 ,or dye ) #b to #c oz4 ,qu]citron1 :i* %\ld be br\ght sl[ly to ! boil & boil$ = a few m9utes only4 7#f7 ,,yell[ 7,= #a lb47 ,/eep ov]night 9 hot ba? ( #a-a_/b oz4 ,tannic acid1 or #d oz4 ,galls1 wr+ out1 dry4 ,"w #b h\rs 9 ba? ( #a_/d lb4 alum & #a_/b oz4 *alk1 dry1 pass ?r\gh weak ba? ( *loride ( lime ab\t #a oz41 dry4 ,return to alum ba? & repeat process1 wa% well1 dye sl[ly ) #a-a_/b oz4 ,flav94 7#g7 ,,orange 7,= #a lb47 ,boil #b oz4 ,annatto ) #a oz4 c>bonate ( soda cry/als = #a_/b h\r1 !n add to a ba? conta9+ a teaspoonful ( ,turkey ,r$ ,oil1 boil = #aj m9utes4 ,take (f boil1 ent] y>n1 boil = #a-a_/d h\rs1 let cool to h& heat1 remove y>n1 wa% slightly & dry quickly4 7#h7 ,,br[n 7,= #a lb47 ,ent] 9 "o ba? #a oz4 ,cut*1 9 ano!r #a_/b oz4 ,*rome4 ,ent] cotton 9 cut* ba?1 boil #bj m9utes1 wr+ out1 boil #aj m9utes 9 *rome ba?4 ,add #f oz4 fu/ic or #a oz4 flav9 to cut* ba?1 re-ent] cotton4 ,repeat above until ! requir$ dep? ( col\r is rea*$1 f9i% 9 cut* ba? to obta9 deepe/ %ade1 :i* may be d>k5$ by add+ #a dra*m or s copp] sulphate4 ,a greyi% drab may be got by add+ f]r\s sulphate4 ,all %ades ( br[n may be obta9$ by decreas+ or increas+ ! am\nt ( cut* or by add+ a little logwood or fu/ic1 9 :i* latt] case ! cotton %\ld h be5 previ\sly mordant$4 7#i7 ,,black 7,= #a lb47 ,wa%1 /eep ov]night 9 hot solution ( tannic acid1 #a oz41 wr+ out )\t wa%+1 "w = #aj m9utes 9 soda ba?1 at a temp]ature ( #ej deg4 to #fj deg4,c41 #a-a_/d oz4 ,wr+ out1 "w 9 cold solution ( copp]as1 #a-a_/d oz41 = #a_/b h\r1 return to soda ba? = #a_/d h\r4 ,wa%1 dye 9 ba? ( logwood #ab oz41 madd] #b-a_/b oz41 & fu/ic #h oz4 ,ent] into cold ba? & raise gradually to boil+1 boil = #a_/b h\r1 pass ?r\gh w>m solution ( *rome1 #a oz41 wa%1 "w ?r\gh w>m soap ba?4 ,greys may be obta9$ ) #a to #e p] c5t ( logwood aft] mordant+ 9 a weak solution ( iron4 ,,! ,,z9c-,,lime ,,indigo ,,vat ,! ,z9c-lime ,indigo ,vat4 ,x w be necess>y to expla9 ^! words--,indigo blue is insoluble & _c be us$ = dye+4 ,if h[ev] x is r$uc$ or *ang$ to indigo :ite1 x has1 :ile x is 9 ?is =m1 an aff9ity = vegetable & animal fibre4 ,^! fibres w take x up f ! solution & reta9 x4 ,if !y are !n expos$ to ! air1 ! oxyg5 acts ^u ! indigo 9 ! fibre & turns x back aga9 to indigo blue4 ,v>i\s *emicals c be us$ to r$uce indigo blue to indigo :ite4 ,i propose to describe h[ ! "w is done ) z9c du/ & lime z r$uc+ ag5ts4 ,9 c\rse ( "t ! ^w vat has be5 transf]r$ f ! dye+ vessels !mselves to _! cont5ts2 i4e41 ! indigo dye liquor4 ,by vat1 !re=e1 we und]/& n only ! vessel us$ = dye+ indigo1 b ! solution ( alkali salts ( indigo :ite 9 wat]4 ,?is def9ition di/+ui%es ! indigo vat completely f indigo extract1 or any o!r improp] purposes to :i* indigo may be put4 ,! z9c lime indigo vat is bett] ?an any o!r = dye+ cotton & l954 ,x is also v good = dye+ silk4 ,x has _m advantages ov] ! hydrosulphite vat1 z x is n ne>ly s mu* affect$ by *anges ( temp]ature & wea!r4 ,x c be put to "w aft] a six mon?s' re/4 ,! disadvantage :i* x %>es ) ! copp]as vat1 ?\gh 9 a less degree1 is t !re is a s$im5t :i* mu/ n t\* ! /uff dur+ ! dye+4 ,?is is avoid$ by hang+ a net 9 ! vat aft] ! s$im5t has settl$1 or by dipp+ ! ske9s on rods4 ,x is ess5tial t ! indigo us$ %\ld be ( ! be/ quality1 & gr\nd to s f9e a p[d] t x w float on wat]4 ,co>sely gr\nd indigo w nev] r$uce & c be f\nd at ! bottom ( ! vat un*ang$4 ,x %\ld be s f9e t no r\ghness is felt ) ! tongue4 ,buy ! be/ quality indigo ready gr\nd1 & if possible mix$ to a pa/e ) wat]4 ,a #bj pa/e1 i4e4 #bj ( indigo & #hj ( wat]1 is a usual quantity4 ,if indigo p[d] mu/ be us$ x mu/ be mix$ to a pa/e v c>efully1 z x w1 if prop]ly gr\nd1 fly ab\t l du/4 ,! easie/ me?od ( mix+ is to p\r ! requir$ am\nt ( boil+ wat] into a j> 7previ\sly heat$71 !n put 9 ! indigo4 ,close ! vessel tightly4 ,! /eam :i* rises w moi/5 ! indigo s t x loses its t5d5cy to fly ab\t4 ,aft] #aj or #ae m9utes x c easily be mix$ ) a /ick4 ,! z9c du/ %\ld be dry & n cak$4 ,! lime %\ld be 9 h>d lumps4 ,x %\ld be b\ght f a reliable *emi/ 9 a seal$ conta9]1 & kept seal$ till want$4 ,if x is crumbl+ & crack+ x has be5 expos$ to damp air1 & is p>tly slak$ already1 & !re=e m or less useless4 ,z ! indigo is m quickly r$uc$ 9 a conc5trat$ solution1 a /ock vat is fir/ made & ?is is add$ to ! dye vat z requir$4 ,! vessel = ! /ock vat %\ld h a well-fitt+ lid4 ,a /onew>e j> ) a bung w d v well4 ,to make a /ock vat suffici5t to furni% a dye vat conta9+ #ae-bj gallons use3-- #aj oz4 ,indigo #bj pa/e 7or #b-a_/b oz4 indigo pa/$ ) #g-a_/b oz4 ( wat]71 #a-a_/b oz4 z9c du/1 #d-e oz4 quick lime1 #d-e p9ts ( wat]4 ,mix ! z9c du/ to a pa/e ) a little ( ! wat]1 gradually add ! indigo & ! re/ ( ! wat]4 ,! heat ( ! wat] %\ld be n less ?an #afj deg4,f4 z x w cool :ile ! lime is be+ prep>$4 ,slake ! lime 9 a sep>ate vessel by p\r+ ab\t #e oz4 ( wat] ov] x4 ,:5 x beg9s to hiss & break1 add m wat] little by little4 ,:5 all ! lumps h crack$ up /ir till a ?ick ev5 cream is made4 ,add ?is to ! o!r +r$i5ts 9 ! /ock vat4 ,/ir well4 ,! /ock vat %\ld h a temp]ature ( #abj-adj deg4,f4 ,x %\ld be /irr$ at int]vals4 ,! vessel %\ld be /ood 9 hot wat] to keep ! temp]ature z ne> #abj deg4,f4 z possible4 ,9 ab\t #e h\rs ! mixture has a pure yell[ col\r & is ready to add to ! dye vat4 7,!re is ( c\rse a blue-black scum ( indigo on top47 ,prep>ation ( ! dye vat4 ,! vessel us$ %\ld be deep & upright s t an unnecess>ily l>ge surface is n expos$ to ! air1 & a suffici5t space = dye+ is obta9$ above ! s$im5t4 ,a galvanis$ du/ b91 or a b>rel 7provid$ x is n ( oak or any o!r wood :i* conta9s tann971 make good indigo vats4 ,put #af gallons ( wat] 9 ! vat at a temp]ature ( #fe-gj deg4,f4 ,9 ord] to c\nt]act ! effects ( ! atmosph]ic oxyg5 conta9$ 9 ! wat] ( ! vat1 additions ( z9c du/ & lime are made "s h\rs be=e ! /ock solution is add$4 ,a p9* ( z9c du/ & an ounce ( lime1 previ\sly slak$1 %\ld be add$ & ! vat /irr$4 ,/irr+ mu/ always be done g5tly & smoo?ly1 e ef=t be+ made n to take air into ! vat4 ,at ! same "t x mu/ be /irr$ up f ! bottom s t ! s$im5t is mix$ ) ! liquor above x4 ,! be/ tool = ?is purpose is a broom /ick1 to "o end ( :i* a piece ( wood is nail$1 l a g>d5 rake4 ,:5 all is ready1 c>ry ! /ock solution to ! dye vat1 &1 to avoid spla%+ ?r\gh ! air1 hold x 9 ! wat] ( ! vat :ile g5tly p\r+ out half its cont5ts4 ,/ir up ! vat & cov] x until x %[s a cle> yell[ col\r "u ! surface ( ! scum4 ,?is may n happ5 = #bd h\rs4 ,a good way to te/ ! col\r ( ! vat is to pu% back ! scum ) ! edge ( a sauc] or plate1 !n dip x halfway into ! liquor4 ,aga9/ its :ite surface ! col\r ( ! liquor w be pla9ly se54 ,x %\ld look l good light ale4 ,if ! liquor is gre5i% & suffici5t "t has elaps$1 ano!r p9* ( z9c du/ & a little m lime mu/ be add$ z be=e1 & ! vat aga9 /irr$1 all[$ to settle & aga9 te/$4 ,a little difficulty may be f\nd 9 gett+ ! vat to />t1 b once x has work$ well no difficulty w be f\nd 9 />t+ x aga94 ,x w "w m easily z x gets old]4 ,z indigo does n p5etrate easily1 e ef=t mu/ be made to help x to d s4 ,! /uff to be dy$ mu/ be ?or\ghly sc\r$ s t no p>ticle ( grease1 size1 or any o!r impurity is pres5t4 ,e ef=t mu/ be made to prev5t unr$uc$ indigo f atta*+ itself to ! cotton4 ,nev] beg9 to dye 9 a vat :i* is gre5i%4 ,! unr$uc$ indigo w atta* itself to ! /uff & be wa/$4 ,y\r "t w also be wa/$ 9 wa%+ x (f4 ,! vat %\ld be ?or\ghly /irr$ & all[$ to settle ea* day be=e dye+ beg9s4 ,:5 ! s$im5t has settl$1 ! fro? %\ld be c>efully skimm$ & kept to return to ! vat :5 ! day's dye+ is f9i%$4 ,if a net is to be us$ x %\ld be ?or\ghly wett$ 7if ev]y?+ goes into ! vat wet x w take less air ) x74 ,! net c be kept d[n by ty+ a few /ones 9 a bag or an iron weight to ! c5tre ( x4 ,if ! hanks are to be dipp$ on a rod ?is may be ( iron1 or ( wood suitably weight$4 ,! hanks %\ld n be less ?an #h in*es bel[ ! surface ( ! liquor & ab\t #a ft4 above ! bottom ( ! vat4 ,! hanks %\ld be turn$ aft] ea* dip1 z1 if ! same end goes to ! bottom ea* "t x w be d>k]4 ,a pulley ov] ! vat to draw out ! rod or net is conv5i5t4 ,! dye+s c !n be all[$ to dra9 a few seconds4 ,!n wr+ ea* hank1 %ak+ x out to get ! air into x4 ,aft] a suffici5t air+1 dip aga94 ,_m %ort dips ) air+ betwe5 w produce fa/] col\rs4 ,dip #a m9ute1 wr+ & air #b m9utes4 ,dip #b m9utes1 wr+ & air #d m9utes4 ,dip #e m9utes1 & s on4 ,z l95 & cotton look s v mu* d>k] :5 wet ?an :5 dry1 a bit %\ld be dri$ to judge if ! col\r is "r4 ,indigo c be dy$ f ! pale/ sky blue to black4 ,! v pale/ %ade ( sky blue is nev] v fa/4 ,! virtue :i* indigo alone seems to possess is t1 ?\gh x may become light] ) cont9ual use1 x also becomes a cle>] & m lovely blue4 ,?is is especially s on cotton & l951 = :i* x is a sup]b dye4 ,! v>y+ %ades ( indigo ( but*]s' coats1 sailors' coll>s1 & ,fr5* port]s' bl\ses always give u pleasure4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,! ,,dye+ ,,( ,,silk ,silk is cov]$ ) a natural gum :i* has to be remov$ be=e ! dye+ process c beg94 ,?is is done by boil+ = "o h\r or m 9 a ba? conta9+ soap1 #b to #h ozs4 to ! p\nd ( silk accord+ to ! am\nt ( gum on ! silk4 ,x is !n well wa%$1 & is ready = mordant+4 ,! mordants mo/ly us$ are ,alum1 = mo/ ( ! bright col\rs4 ,t91 = bright5+ "s col\rs1 & z a sep>ate mordant = o!rs4 ,iron1 = black dye+4 ,*rome1 = c]ta9 br[ns su* z cate*u4 ,! pr9cipal ,alum mordant is ,acetate ( ,alum9e1 prep>$ z foll[s3 ,let #c lbs4 ,alum & #c ozs4 *alk be dissolv$ 9 #a gallon ( w>m wat] 9 an e>!nw>e pan1 add ! *alk sl[ly to ! ,alum4 ,add #b lbs4 :ite acetate ( lead1 /ir occasionally dur+ #bd to #cf h\rs4 ,let x rema9 #ab h\rs at re/4 ,decant & pres]ve ! cle> liquor1 be+ c>eful n to /ir up ! s$im5t4 ,p\r #b gallons ( wat] on ! s$im5t1 & /ir occasionally = #ab h\rs4 ,let x re/ #ab h\rs4 ,decant ! cle> & add to ! fir/ lot4 ,bottle = use4 ,x keeps ab\t ?ree weeks4 ,( ! mordant #b p>ts are dilut$ ) #a ( wat]1 & ! silk is well work$ 9 ?is = #aj m9utes1 aft] be+ wett$ d[n4 ,/eep = #ab h\rs1 wr+ out & dry4 ,wet d[n aga9 & return to ! ,alum liquor1 "w = #aj m9utes1 /eep #ab h\rs1 dry4 ,:5 ?or\ghly dry1 wa% well 9 sev]al *anges ( wat] be=e dye+4 ,= less bright col\rs "o mordant+ may be suffici5t4 ,! mordant is us$ = successive bat*es ( silk until exhau/$2 ! fre%] ! mordant1 ! bett] = bright] col\rs4 ,silk %\ld be dy$ z soon aft] x is dri$ z is conv5i5t4 ,ano!r ,alum mordant4 ,dissolve #be p] c5t ( ,alum 9 hot wat] & add #f p] c5t c>bonate ( soda cry/als4 ,fill up a j> ) wat] & /eep silk 9 x ov]-night4 ,x mu/ be wa%$ be=e dye+4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ 7#a7 ,,indigo ,,vat ,,= ,,blue ,silk is dy$ 9 a simil> mann] z describ$ = wool1 b requires /rong] vats & long] dips to obta9 ! same dep? ( col\r4 ,see page #cc4 7#b7 ,,indigo ,,extract ,,= ,,blue ,dye at a temp]ature ( #dj to #ej deg4,c4 ) z mu* ,indigo ,extract dissolv$ 9 ! ba? z is requir$ = ! desir$ dep? ( %ade4 ,if ! silk has be5 fir/ mordant$ ) alum1 comp\nd col\rs c be obta9$ by ! addition ( a r$ or yell[ dye to ! ba?4 7#c7 ,,crimson ,mordant ) ,alum or ,alum9ium ,acetate & dye ) #dj to #ej p] c5t ,co*9eal4 ,a teaspoonful ( ,t91 dissolv$ 9 cold wat]1 may be add$ to bright54 ,boil well4 ,x is advisable to wa% 9 soap aft] us+ t9 z x prev5ts ! latt] mak+ ! y>n brittle4 7#d7 ,,madd] ,,r$ ,mordant ) ,alum or ,alum9ium ,acetate4 ,dye ) #hj to #ajj p] c5t ,madd] & a h&ful ( bran p] p\nd ( silk4 ,br+ sl[ly to ! boil 9 #a h\r1 boil a few m9utes4 ,x %\ld be bright5$ by boil+ a %ort "t 9 soap1 ) a little t94 7#e7 ,,yell[ ,mordant ) ,alum or ,alum9ium ,acetate4 ,v>i\s ,dyes may be us$4 ,weld3 ,dye ) #aej p] c5t4 ,flav93 ,dye ) #a oz4 to ! p\nd1 ) a teaspoonful ,t94 ,fu/ic3 ,dye ) #ej p] c5t1 or m4 ,qu]citron3 ,dye ) #aj to #bj p] c5t4 ,a little *alk may be add$ t[>ds ! end4 ,! %ades may be v>i$ by ! addition ( small quantities ( madd] or co*9eal4 ,orange may be obta9$ by ! use ( ,madd]1 #b to #d ozs4 p] p\nd1 ) ,flav9 or ,fu/ic4 7#f7 ,,gre5 ,gre5s may be obta9$ by dye+ ) any ( ! yell[ dyes & blue+ 9 ! ,indigo ,vat or ) ,indigo ,extract4 ,if ! col\r is ?91 x %\ld be dy$ a deep] blue 9 ! vat & !n re-dy$ ) yell[4 ,a /rong cle> yell[ is ne$$ = a good gre54 7#g7 ,,purple ,dye silk blue 9 ,indigo ,vat4 ,!n dye )\t mordant+ 9 ,cudbe>4 7#h7 ,,orange 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) ,alum ,acetate4 ,dye ) #a_/b lb4 ,madd]1 #b ozs4 ,flav9 & #a oz4 t94 ,ent] ! t9 fir/ 9 a cold ba?4 ,mix ,flav9 & ,madd] into a pa/e & add to ! ba?4 ,br+ to ! boil sl[ly1 boil = #aj m9utes4 ,wa% 9 soap4 7#i7 ,,black 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) ,alum ,acetate4 ,dye ) #f ozs4 logwood1 #c_/d oz4 flav91 #a oz4 ,iron4 ,mix all toge!r & boil = #a_/b h\r4 ,wa% ?or\ghly4 7#aj7 ,,black 7#a7 ,mordant ) basic f]ric sulphate & aft] all[+ ! silk to lie = "s "t1 wa% well & soap at #ij deg4,c4 7#b7 ,dye ) #ej p] c5t ,fu/ic1 #aj p] c5t ,f]r\s ,sulphate & #b p] c5t ,copp] ,acetate4 7#c7 ,dye ) logwood #ej p] c5t & soap4 7#aa7 ,,grey ,,) ,,brack5 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #a oz4 ,iron & #b ozs4 ,cream ( ,t>t>4 ,boil a quantity ( "y brack5 tips = #a_/b h\r4 ,/ra94 ,boil silk 9 ! decoction = ab\t an h\r4 7#ab7 ,,br[n ,,) ,,li*5 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) ,alum ,acetate4 ,put into ! dye ba? ! quantity ( li*5 accord+ to requir$ col\r ) ab\t a teaspoonful ( ,acetic ,acid4 ,boil f #a to #c h\rs4 7#ac7 ,,orange 7#a lb47 #a oz4 t91 #a_/b oz4 ,oxalic ,acid1 #b oz4 ,flav94 ,ent] silk & boil = #a h\r4 ,remove silk & add to ! ba? #a oz4 t91 #a oz4 ,oxalic1 #b oz4 ,co*9eal4 ,boil = #a h\r or m4 7#ad7 ,,black 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #b oz4 logwood extract1 #a-a_/d oz4 fu/ic extract1 #a-a_/d oz4 iron1 #a_/b oz4 copp] sulphate4 ,boil = #a h\r4 ,take out & r9se4 ,to ! same ba? add #a-c_/d oz4 logwood extract1 #a oz4 fu/ic extract1 #g oz4 madd]4 ,ent] silk & boil = #a h\r4 ,wa% 9 soap4 7#ae7 ,,yell[ 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #a oz4 ,bi*romate ( ,pota%4 ,boil #a h\r4 ,9 a sep>ate ba? put #a lb4 weld & boil = #a h\r4 7#af7 ,,r$ 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #a-c_/d oz4 t9 & #a-c_/d oz4 oxalic acid4 ,boil = #a h\r4 ,!n add #c_/d lb4 co*9eal & #f oz4 madd]4 ,boil well & wa% 9 soap4 7#ag7 ,,br[n 7#a lb47 ,mordant ) #a oz4 ,copp] sulphate4 ,boil = #a h\r4 ,take out silk & add #b-a_/b oz4 madd]1 #a oz4 fu/ic *ips1 & boil = #a h\r4 7#ah7 ,,r$ 7#a lb47 ,dissolve #a oz4 ,tannic ,acid 9 hot wat]4 ,ent] silk & leave = #bd h\rs1 /irr+ occasionally4 ,r9se well 9 two wat]s4 ,9 a fre% ba?1 put #d oz4 co*9eal4 ,ent] silk4 ,br+ to boil & let blue col\r develop4 ,lift1 & add #a oz4 co*9eal #a oz4 t94 ,re-ent] silk boil well4 ,wa% 9 soap4 ,,gloss>y ,adjective ,dyes4 ,dyes :i* require mordant4 ,aliz>94 ,! *ief col\r+ pr9ciple ( madd]4 ,x is also ! "n = an ext5sive s]ies ( *emical col\rs produc$ f an?rac5e1 "o ( ! coal t> hydroc>bons discov]$ 9 #ahfh4 ,anil9e4 ,discov]$ #ahbf 7anil4 ,span4 indigo74 ,fir/ prep>$ f indigo by means ( cau/ic pota%1 f\nd 9 coal1 #ahcd4 ,manufactur$ on a l>ge scale aft] ,p]k9's discov]y ( mauve 9 #ahef4 ,annatta4 7,annotto1 ,arnotto1 ,r\c\47 ,a dye obta9$ f ! pulp surr\nd+ ! se$s ( ! ,bixa orellana2 *iefly us$ 9 dye+ silk an orange col\r1 b is ( a fugitive nature4 ,argol4 ,! t>t> deposit$ f w9es completely f]m5t$1 & adh]+ to ! sides ( casks z a h>d cru/4 ,:5 purifi$ x becomes ,cream ( ,t>t>4 ,beck4 ,a l>ge vessel or tub us$ 9 dye+4 ,bois jaune4 ,fu/ic1 yell[ wood4 ,c>?amus4 ,saffl[]1 an annual plant cultivat$ 9 ,s\? ,europe1 ,egypt & ,asia1 = ! r$ dye f its fl[]s4 ,cau/ic ,soda4 ,c>bonate ( soda1 boil$ ) lime4 ,coal ,t> ,col\rs4 ,col\rs obta9$ by di/illation & *emical treatm5t f coal t>1 a product ( coal dur+ ! mak+ ( gas4 ,!re are ov] #b1jjj col\rs 9 use4 ,det]g5t4 ,a cleans+ ag5t4 ,dip4 ,g5]ally appli$ to imm]s+ clo?1 etc41 9 ! blue vat4 ,divi-,divi4 ,! dri$ pods ( ,caesalp9a cori>ia gr[+ 9 ! ,we/ ,indies & ,s4 ,am]ica2 !y conta9 #bj to #ce tann9 & a br[n col\r+ matt]4 ,dy]'s ,_s4 ,aqua =tis1 #aj p>ts2 sal ammoniac1 #e p>ts2 t91 #b p>ts2 dissolv$ toge!r4 ,ent]4 ,to ent] wool1 to put x into ! dye or mordant liquor4 ,f5ugrec4 ,f5ugreek ,trigonnella fa5ugraecum4 ,flav94 ,a col\r+ matt] extract$ f ,qu]citron4 ,full1 to4 ,to treat or beat clo? = ! purpose ( cleans+ & ?ick5+ x4 ,full]'s h]b4 ,sapon>ia (fic9alis4 ,a plant us$ 9 ! process ( full+4 ,full]'s ,?i/le1 or teasle4 ,dipsacus fullonum4 ,us$ = full+ clo?4 ,fu/et4 ,"y fu/ic4 ,v5etian ,suma* ,rhus cot9us4 ,x gives a f9e orange col\r1 :i* has n mu* p]man5ce4 ,galls1 ,gall nuts4 ,oak galls produc$ by ! egg ( an insect1--! female gall wasp4 ,an excresc5ce is produc$ r\nd ! egg1 & ! insect1 :5 develop$1 pi]ces a hole & escapes4 ,^? gall nuts :i* are n pi]c$ conta9 mo/ tannic acid4 ,! be/ come f ,aleppo & ,turkey4 ,gramme or ,gram4 ,ab\t #ae-a_/b gra9s 7,troy74 ,kilo4 ,kilogramme4 ,equals #b lbs4 #c4b oz4 ,litre4 ,ne>ly #a-c_/d p9ts4 ,lixivitation4 ,! process ( sep>at+ a soluble sub/ance f an insoluble by ! p]colation ( wat]4 ,lixivium4 7,lye47 ,a t]m (t5 us$ 9 old dye books1 wat] impregnat$ ) alkal9e salts extract$ by lixivitation f wood a%es4 ,lye or ,ley4 ,any /rong alkal9e solution1 especially "o us$ = ! purpose ( wa%+ su* z soda lye1 soap lye4 ,m]c]is$ ,cotton4 ,cotton prep>$ by treat+ ) a solution ( cau/ic pota% or soda or c]ta9 o!r *emicals4 ,discov]$ by ,john ,m]c] 9 #ahdd4 ,mill+4 ,! op]ation ( full+ clo?4 ,myrobalans4 ,! fruit ( sev]al species ( trees1 gr[+ 9 ,*9a & ! ,ea/ ,indies1 conta9+ tannic acid 7#be-dj tann974 ,oil ( ,vitriol4 ,sulphuric acid4 ,organz9e4 ,twi/$ raw silk f be/ cocoons1 us$ = w>p4 ,pe>l ,a%4 ,c>bonate ( pota%4 ,p]sian ,b]ries4 ,! dri$ unripe fruit ( v>i\s species ( ,rhamnus4 ,also call$ ,fr5* b]ries1 gra9s ( ,avignon4 ,potassium ,c>bonate4 7,pota%es47 ,c>bonate ( pota% has be5 kn[n s9ce anci5t times z a con/itu5t ( ! a%es ( l& plants1 f :i* x is obta9$ by extraction ) wat]4 ,9 mo/ cases ,sodium ,c>bonate1 :i* x /rongly resembles1 c be us$ 9 its place4 ,r$ spirits4 ,t9 ,spirits4 ,appli$ to t9 mordants g5]ally4 ,a solution ( ,/ann\s *loride4 ,r$ woods4 ,camwood1 ,b>wood1 ,s&]swood 7,santal1 ,s&al1 ,r$ ,s&]s71 ,brazil wood1 ,sapan wood1 ,pea*-wood4 ,r\c\4 ,anatta1 ,arnotto4 ,saxon blue4 ,! dye made by indigo dissolv$ 9 oil ( vitriol4 ,scot* ell4 #cg4b in*es4 ,sc\r1 to4 ,to wa%4 ,scroop4 ,! ru/l+ prop]ty ( silk4 ,soda a%4 ,c>bonate ( soda4 ,s\r wat]4 ,to e gallon ( wat]1 add "o gill vitriol2 /ir ?or\ghly4 ,/uff /eep$ 9 ?is %\ld be cov]$ ) ! liquor1 o!rwise x w rot4 7#b7 ,wat] 9 :i* bran has be5 made to gr[ s\r4 #bd bu%els ( bran are put 9 a tub1 ab\t #aj hog%eads ( ne>ly boil+ wat] is p\r$ into x2 acid f]m5tation soon beg9s1 & 9 #be h\rs x is ready to use4 7#c7 ,?r[ "s h&fuls ( bran into hot wat] & let x /& = #bd h\rs1 or until ! wat] becomes s\r1 :5 x is fit = use4 ,/aple4 ,a t]m appli$ to cotton & wool indicat+ l5g? ( fibre4 ,sub/antive ,dye4 ,a dye n requir+ a mordant4 ,suma*4 ,leaves & twigs ( sev]al species ( ,rhus1 conta9+ tannic acid4 ,x is sold 9 ! =m ( cru%$ leaves or z a p[d] 7#ae-bj tann974 ,tram4 ,slightly twi/$ raw silk1 us$ = weft4 ,tyrian purple4 ,a purple col\r obta9$ f c]ta9 %ell fi%1 su* z ,bucc9um & ,purpura4 ,x is m5tion$ by ,pl9y z be+ discov]$ 9 #adjj ,b4,c4 ,x 0 a lo/ art 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,valonia4 ,acorn cups ( c]ta9 species ( oak f ,s\? ,europe1 conta9+ #be-ce ( tannic acid4 ,vegetable alkali4 ,pota%4 ,v]digris4 ,acetate ( copp]4 ,wet out1 to4 ,to damp be=e putt+ ! y>n or clo? into ! dye4 ,,bibliography ,a pr(itable ,boke4 7,on ,dye+47 ,translat$ f ! ,dut*4 #aehc4 ,bancr(t1 ,edw>d4 ,! ,philosophy ( ,p]man5t ,col\rs4 #agid4 ,b]?ollet4 ,! ,art ( ,dye+4 #ahbd4 ,bird1 ,f4 ,j4 ,! ,dy]'s ,h&book4 #ahge4 ,bolton1 ,clem5t4 ,a ,manual ( ,wool ,dye+4 #aiac4 ,b\lg]1 ,pr(essor ,g4 ,s4 ,! ,uses ( plants4 #ahhi4 ,brew/]'s ,ed9burgh ,encyclopa$ia4 #ahcj4 ,dye+4 ,crook1 ,w4 ,dye+ & ,tissue ,pr9t+4 #ahhb4 ,d>w9 & ,meldola4 ,woad4 7,nature1 ,nov4 #ab1 #ahif47 ,edge1 ,alfr$4 ,"s ,briti% ,dye ,li*5s4 7,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,dy]s & ,col\ri/s4 ,may1 #aiad47 ,edmon/on1 ,t4 ,on ! ,native ,dyes ( ! ,%etl& ,isl&s4 7,transactions ( ,botanical ,society ( ,ed9burgh1 ,vol4 #a1 #ahda47 ,engli% ,encyclopa$ia4 ,dye+4 #ahjb4 ,fran*eville4 ,on ,anci5t & ,mod]n ,dyes1 #agfg4 7,royal ,academy ( ,sci5ces1 ,b]l947 ,haigh1 ,james4 ,! ,dy]'s ,assi/ant4 #aggh4 ,hellot1 ,macqu]1 ,m4 le ,pilleur ,d' ,apligny4 ,! ,art ( ,dye+ ,wool1 ,silk & ,cotton4 7,translat$ f ! ,fr5*1 #aghi4 ,new ,edition4 #aija47 ,h5sl[4 ,pr(essor ,g4 ,use ( ,briti% plants4 ,hiscock1 ,g>d9] ,d4 #bj? ,c5tury book ( ,recipes1 ,=mulas & ,processes4 #aijg4 ,hummel1 ,j4 ,j4 ,! ,dye+ ( ,textile ,fabrics4 ,hur/1 ,silk ,dye+ & ,pr9t+4 7,te*nological ,h&book4 #ahib47 ,j>ma91 ,george4 ,on ,wool ,dye+4 #f ,lectures4 #ahgf4 ,kne*t1 ,rawson & ,l[5?al4 ,a ,manuel ( ,dye+4 #ahic4 ,l9dsay1 ,dr4 ,w4 ,l4 ,on ! ,dye+ ,prop]ties ( ,li*5s4 7,ed9burgh ,new ,philosophical ,j\rnal1 #ahee47 ,love1 ,?omas4 ,! ,practical ,dy] & ,sc\r]4 #ahed4 ,mackay1 ,mrs4 ,an/ru!r4 ,simple ,home ,dye+4 ,milroy1 ,r4 ,p4 ,h&book = ,dye+ = ,wooll5 ,homespun ,work]s4 7,conge/$ ,di/ricts ,bo>d = ,irel&47 ,morris1 ,william4 ,( ,dye+ z an ,art4 7,essays by ,memb]s ( ,arts & ,crafts ,exhibition ,society1 #aijc47 ,morris1 ,william4 ,! ,less] ,arts ( ,life4 7f ,ar*itecture1 ,indu/ry & ,weal?4 #aijb47 ,napi]1 ,james4 ,a ,manual ( ,dye+ ,recipes4 #ahee4 ,napi]1 ,james4 ,a ,manual ( ! ,art ( ,dye+4 #ahec4 ,p>nell's ,appli$ ,*emi/ry4--,article on ,dye+4 ,pl[right1 ,dr4 ,briti% ,dye ,plants4 7,j\rnal ( ! ,royal ,horticultural ,society1 ,vol4 #bf4 #aija47 ,rawson1 ,g>d9] & ,laycock4 ,a ,diction>y ( ,dyes1 ,mordants4 #aija4 ,sansome4 ,dye+4 #ahhh4 ,sims1 ,t4 ,dye+ & ,blea*+4 7,briti% ,manufactur+ ,indu/ries4 #ahgg47 ,smi?1 ,david4 ,! ,dy]'s ,in/ructor4 #ahdg4 ,smi?4 ,practical ,dy]'s ,guide4 #ahdi4 ,s[]by4 ,engli% ,botany4 ,s[]by4 ,useful ,plants ( ,great ,brita94 ,! ,art ( ,dye+4 7,translat$ f ! ,g]man4 #agje4 ,repr9t1 #aiac47 ,! ,dy] & ,col\r ,mak]'s ,companion4 #ahei4 ,?omson1 ,john ,m4 ,! ,practical ,dy]'s ,assi/ant4 #ahdi4 ,,index ,acacia1 #dj ,acetate ( ,alum9a1 #df1 #ef ,adjective dyes1 #f1 #fj ,agrimony1 #ab ,ald]1 #aa1 #ad1 #ae1 #dj ,aliz>91 #fj ,alkanet1 #ab ,alpaca1 #a ,alum1 #g1 = silk1 #ef1 cotton1 l951 #df ,ammonia1 #b1 #c1 #cb ,anil9e1 #fj ,annotto1 ,anatta1 ,annatta1 ,arnotto1 #d1 #ej1 #fj ,arcel1 #ba ,ar*il1 #ai ,argol1 #fj ,areca1 #dj ,a%1 #ab ,b>b]ry1 #ab1 = cotton1 #d1 = silk1 #ch ,b>wood1 #cd1 #fb ,be>b]ry1 #ab ,beck1 #fj ,b$/raw1 #aa ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 #i ,bir*1 #aa1 #ab1 #ad ,black1 #bi1 #dj-db dye+ plants1 #ae = cotton1 l951 #ea = silk1 #eh1 #ei f ald]1 #dj f walnut1 #da ) logwood1 #bi ,blackb]ry1 #ae ,blaeb]ry1 #ab1 #ad ,blue1 #bd-cj dye+ plants1 #ab f li*51 #ba logwood1 #bi :ortleb]ry1 #ab ,blue vitriol1 #aj ,blue/one1 #aj ,bog asphodel1 #ab ,bog myrtle1 #ab ,bois de ,campe*e1 #bh ,bois jaune1 #fj ,brack51 #ab ,bran1 #cc1 #eg ,bramble1 #ab ,brazil woods1 #cd ,broom1 #ab ,br[n1 #dj-db dye+ plants1 #ad = cotton1 #ej = wool f cate*u1 #dj f ald] b>k1 #dj crotal1 #ai ,icel& moss1 #bb li*5s1 #bb madd]1 #cc1 #db onion sk9s1 #da peat soot1 #da walnut1 #da ,br[ni% r$1 #ad1 #cd ,bryony1 #ad ,buck?orn1 #ab ,camel hair1 #a ,camomile1 #ac ,campea*y wood1 #bh ,camwood1 #cd1 #fb ,c>bonate ( ,pota%1 #fb ,c>bonate ( ,soda1 #fj ,c>?amus1 #fj ,cate*u1 #dj = cotton1 #df1 #dg1 #ej ,cau/ic pota%1 #bh ,cau/ic soda1 #be-bh1 #fj ,c5taury1 #ac ,*e/nut1 #dg ,*rome1 #i1 #dg1 #ef ,coal ,t> ,col\rs1 #fj ,coccus1 #ca1 #cb ,co*9eal1 #ca ,copp]1 #aj1 #dg ,copp]as1 #h1 #i ,copp] ,sulphate1 #aj ,corydal1 #ac ,cotton1 #d1 #df-ee mordant+1 #df ! col\r (1 #d ,crab ,apple1 #ab ,cream ( ,t>t>1 #g1 #aj ,crimson--f co*9eal1 #cb f li*5s1 #ag1 #ba ,crottle1 ,crotal1 #af1 #ag1 #ai1 #bj1 #ba1 #bc ,cudbe>1 #af1 #bj ,cut*1 #dj ,damson1 #ad ,danewort1 #ad ,d&elion1 #ad ,deadly night%ade1 #ad ,det]g5t1 #fj ,devil's ,bit1 #ab ,dip1 #fj ,divi-divi1 #dg1 #fj ,dock1 #ab1 #ae ,dog's ,m]cury1 #ab ,dulse1 #ad ,dy]'s ,broom1 #ch ,dy]'s ,gre5wood1 #ab ,dy]'s ,_s1 #fj ,dy]'s ,woodruff1 #ab ,eld]1 #ab1 #ad1 #ae ,felt+1 to prev5t1 #c ,f5ugrec1 ,f5ugreek1 #ac1 #fj ,f]r\s sulphate1 #h ,flav91 #ch ,flax1 #d ,fleece1 v>i\s k9ds (1 #a ,fl[]+ re$1 #ad ,fr5* br[n1 #db ,full]'s ,h]b1 #fa ,full]'s ,?i/le1 #fa ,fumitory1 #ac ,fu/ic1 #cf = gre51 #dd ,fu/et1 #fa ,gall nuts1 #dg1 #fa ,gamboge f li*51 #bb ,gold5 rod1 #ac ,gold5 yell[ f weld1 #be ,gorse1 #ab ,gramme1 #fa ,gre51 #dc-de black1 #db dye+ plants1 #ac f ,fu/ic1 #dd ,qu]citron1 #dd ,weld1 #dd ) logwood1 #bi ,indigo extract1 #dd1 #de ,indigo vat1 #dc ,indigo ,extract & weld1 #dd ,gre5 ,vitriol1 #h ,gre5+ we$1 #dc ,gre5i% br[n1 #db ,gre5i% black1 #db ,grey1 #cj ,grey f ,cate*u1 #dj ,gromwell1 #ab ,hazel col\r f ,peatsoot1 #da ,hea?1 #ac ,hea!r1 #aa1 #ci ,hellebore1 #ac ,hemat9 ,cry/als1 #db ,hogs1 #b ,hop1 #ac1 #ad ,hornbeam1 #ac ,hydro*loric acid1 #bh ,hydrosulphite vat1 #be-bh ,icel& ,moss1 #ah1 #bb ,indigo1 #bd ,indigo ,extract1 #be = gre51 #dd1 #de ,indigo ,vats1 #be-bh = cotton1 #dh = cotton 7z9c-lime71 #ea = gre51 #dc1 #dd1 #de ,improvem5t (1 #bg ,indigo ,:ite1 #bg ,indigot9e1 #bg ,iris1 #aa1 #ab1 #ae ,iron1 #h1 #i = cotton1 #dg = silk1 #ef ,iron fil+s1 #f ,ka%mir wool1 #a ,k]mes1 ,k]ms1 #ca ,kilo1 #fa ,korkalett1 #ag ,korkir1 #bj ,lady's ,b$/raw1 #aa1 #ab ,lamb's fleece1 #a ,l>*1 #ad ,lav5d]1 #bi ,lemon yell[ f fu/ic1 #cf f li*51 #bj ,less] ,dye1 #bi ,ley1 #fa ,li*5 dyes1 #ad1 #af-bc li/ etc41 = dye+1 #bj-bb ,lilac ) co*9eal1 #cb ,lily ( ! ,valley1 #ad ,lima wood1 #cd ,lime1 #eb ,l951 #d1 #e ,l+1 #ac ,litre1 #fa ,lixivitation1 #fa ,lixivium1 #fa ,logwood1 #bj1 #bh-cj ,luc]ne1 #ac ,madd]1 #ab1 #cb1 #db ,m>% ,m>igold1 #ac ,mead[ ,rue1 #ac ,mead[sweet1 #ae ,m]c]is$ cotton1 #fa ,mill+1 #fa ,mimosa1 #dj ,mohair1 #a ,mordants1 #h-aj = silk1 #ef = l95 & cotton1 #df ,muriate ( ,t91 #i ,myrobalans1 #dg1 #fa ,nettle1 #ac1 #ad ,oak1 #ad1 #ae ,oak b>k1 #da ,oak galls1 #dg ,oak lung1 #bc ,oak rag1 #bc ,oil ( vitriol1 #bd1 #fa ,old gold f fu/ic1 #cf f weld1 #ce ,old fu/ic1 #cf ,olive f fu/ic1 #cf1 #cg f weld1 #ce ,olive gre51 #dc ,onion sk9s1 #ad1 #ci1 #da ,orange f annatta1 #ej f flav91 #ch f li*51 #ba1 #bb ,orange f weld1 #cf f turm]ic1 #cg ,or*il1 #af1 #ah ,organz9e1 #fa ,orseille d',auv]gne1 #bj ,oxalic acid1 #i ,pea* wood1 #cd ,pe>1 #ac ,pe>l a%1 #be1 #fa ,peat soot1 #da ,p]sian b]ries1 #db1 #fa ,p9k f li*51 #bj ,plum1 #ac ,plum col\r f li*51 #ag ,polygonum1 #ac ,popl>1 #ac ,pota%1 #fb ,potassium ,c>bonate1 #fb ,potassium di*romate1 #i ,pot5til1 #ab1 #ac ,privet1 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #ci ,purple1 f co*9eal1 #cb1 #cc f li*51 #ah1 #bj1 #ba f logwood1 #cj f :ortleb]ry #ad ,purple dye+ plants1 #ad ,purpli% slate1 #cb f ,brazil woods1 #cd f co*9eal1 #cb ,qu]citron1 #cg = cotton & l951 #dh = gre51 #dd ,ragwe$1 #ac ,rav5 grey1 #cj ,r$1 #ca-cd f ,brazil woods1 #cd f li*5s1 #bj-bc f madd]1 #cc = cotton1 #di1 #ej ,r$ br[n1 #cd f ald]1 #dj f li*51 #bj f madd]1 #cd ,r$ currant1 #ad ,r$ dye+ plants1 #aa ,r$ purple ) cudbe> & logwood1 #bj ) logwood1 #cj ,r$ woods1 #cd ,rett+1 #d ,rose r$1 #cc ,r\c\1 #fj1 #fb ,sadd5+1 #aj1 #dj1 #da1 #dg ,saffron f li*51 #bc ,saffl[]1 #d ,s&]swood1 #cd ,s&alwood1 #cd ,sapan wood1 #cd ,sawwort1 #ac ,saxon blue1 #dd1 #fb ,saxon gre51 #dc ,sc>let 7co*9eal71 #cb ,sc>let ( gra91 #cb ,scot* ell1 #fb ,sc\r+ ag5ts1 #b-c ,scroop1 #fb ,scrottyie1 #ag1 #ba ,%eep1 v>i\s k9ds (1 #a-b ,silk1 mordants1 #ef ! dye+ (1 #eg prep>ation (1 #c1 #ef v>i\s k9ds1 ( #c ,slate purple1 #cb ,sloe1 #ab ,soap = sc\r+1 #b ,soda1 #b ,soda a%1 #fb ,sodium c>bonate1 #fb ,s\r wat]1 #fb ,sorrel1 #aa ,spani% wool1 #a ,sp9dle tree1 #ac ,/a*ys1 #ac ,/aple1 #fb ,/4 ,john's wort1 #ac ,/ann\s *loride1 #i ,sub/antive dye1 #f1 #aa1 #ah1 #cg1 #fb ,sulphuric acid1 #bd ,suma*1 #g1 #dj1 #dh1 #fb ,sundew1 #ac1 #ad ,sweet will[1 #ac ,tan1 #db ,tan col\r fr4 li*51 #ai ,tann91 #dg ,tannic acid1 #dg ,teasel1 #ac ,t]ra cotta 7li*571 #ai ,t91 #i1 #dg1 #ef ,t9 cry/als1 #i ,t9 salts1 #i ,t\s*1 #bb ,tram1 #fb ,trefoil1 #ac ,turkey r$ oil1 #di ,turm]ic1 #cg ,tyrian purple1 #fb ,valonia1 #dg1 #fc ,vegetable alkali1 #fc ,v]digris1 #aa1 #fc ,vet*1 #ac ,vicuna1 #a ,violet f eld]1 #ad ,walnut1 #aa1 #ad1 #dj ,wat]1 #b ,wat] lily1 #ad ,wayf>+ tree1 #ac ,weld1 #ac1 #ce ) copp]1 #ce = gre51 #dd ,wet out1 to1 #fc ,we!rs1 #b ,:ortleb]ry1 #ab1 #ad ,will[1 #ac ,woad1 #ab1 #be ,wool1 #a-c col\r (1 #a me?od ( dye+1 #c to wa%1 #b v>i\s k9ds (1 #a1 #b ,yell[1 #ce-ci = cotton 7weld71 #ej = l95 7li*571 #ai = silk1 #eg f weld1 #ce dy]'s broom1 #ch fu/ic1 #cg hea!r1 #ci li*51 #ai1 #bb1 #bc privet1 #ci qu]citron1 #ch suma*1 #da ,yell[ br[n f li*51 #af f suma*1 #da ,yell[ dye+ plants1 #ab-ac ,yell[ gre51 #dc ,yell[ we$1 #dc 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,orig9al spell+1 capitalization1 hyph5ation1 & punctuation h be5 reta9$ f ! orig9al book except = ! foll[+ *anges3 ,page #c3 ,repeat$ 9 delet$4 7#crd4--,! wool is boil$ ) ! mordant & dye 9 ! same ba? toge!r47 ,page #ah3 ,add$ clos+ quote to blockquote 7lu/] to ! col\rs47 ,page #be3 ,*ang$ comma to p]iod aft] ozs4 7#ab fluid ozs4 ( wat]7 ,page #cd3 ,! p]iod 0 remov$ aft] #bh p] c5t = consi/5cy4 ,page #cd3 ,! typographical error w a% 0 *ang$ to wa%4 ,page #ej3 ,"u 7#e7 ,,yell[3 describ$ = silk 7page #gc71 ! ref]5ce to page #gc c\ld possibly be ref]r+ to page #ef1 mordant+ silk 9 g5]al1 or to page #eg1 :]e mordant+ ( yell[ is detail$4 ,page #fe3 7,index73 ,crottle1 ,crotal3 ,! duplicate page #bj 0 remov$4 ,page #ff3 7,index73 ,lixiviation 0 *ang$ to ,lixivitation4 ,page #fh3 ,color 0 *ang$ to col\r 7,tan col\r fr4 li*57 = consi/5cy4 ,a space has be5 add$ be=e ea* lb4 & oz4 & ! space remov$ betwe5 deg4 & ,f4 or ,c4 = consi/5cy4