file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #bciia-;h4htm or #bciia-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ c_/i_/i_/bciia_/bciia-;h_/#bciia-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#b_/ c_/i_/i_/bciia_/bciia-;h4zip7 ,,mission ,,furniture ,how ,to ,make ,it ,,part ,,two ,popular ,mechanics ,handbooks ,chicago ,popular ,mechanics ,company ,copyrighted1 #aiaj by ,h4 ,h4 ,windsor ,this book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the ,popular ,mechanics ,co4 ,like the magazine1 these books are written so you can understand it1 and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all4 ,the texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this ,handbook ,series1 by experts2 are up-to-date1 and have been revised by the editor of ,popular ,mechanics4 ,the dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed1 sanded and cut to length4 ,if the workman desires to have a complete home-made article1 allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces4 ,s-#d-,s and ,s-#b-,s are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides4 ,contents ,,an ,,oak ,,buffet1 #e ,,oak ,,stain1 #i ,a ,,plain ,,oak ,,hall ,,clock1 #aj ,a ,,rocking ,,chair1 #ad ,a ,,curved ,,back ,,arm ,,chair1 #ah ,a ,,plate ,,rack1 #ba ,,tool ,,for ,,marking ,,dowel ,,holes1 #bc ,a ,,magazine ,,table1 #bd ,a ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket1 #bg ,,an ,,oak ,,writing ,,desk1 #bi ,,an ,,oak ,,couch ,,with ,,cushions1 #cc ,,electric ,,shade ,,for ,,the ,,dining ,,room1 #cg ,,how ,,to ,,bend ,,wood1 #dj ,a ,,smoking ,,stand1 #dc ,a ,,china ,,closet1 #dg ,a ,,leather-,,covered ,,footstool1 #ej ,,arts-,,crafts ,,mantel ,,clock1 #eb ,a ,,music ,,stand1 #ee ,,making ,,screws ,,hold ,,in ,,the ,,end1 #eh ,,grain ,,of ,,wood1 #eh ,a ,,wall ,,case ,,with ,a ,,mirror ,,door1 #ei ,a ,,side ,,chair1 #fb ,,an ,,arm ,,chair1 #ff ,a ,,bookcase1 #gj ,a ,,lamp ,,stand1 #gc ,,an ,,extension ,,dining ,,table1 #gg ,,an ,,oak-,,bound ,,cedar ,,chest1 #gi ,a ,,tool ,,for ,,making ,,mortises1 #hd ,a ,,dresser ,,for ,,child',s ,,playroom1 #he ,,cutting ,,tenons ,,with ,a ,,hand-,,saw1 #ij ,,arts ,,and ,,crafts ,,oil ,,lamp1 #ia ,,another ,,china ,,closet1 #id ,,an ,,oak ,,bedstead1 #ii ,,an ,,oak ,,footstool1 #aja ,a ,,library ,,set ,,in ,,pyro-,,carving1 #aje ,a ,,grille ,,with ,,pedestals ,,to ,,match1 #ajg ,a ,,lady',s ,,writing ,,desk1 #ajh ,a ,,telephone ,,stand ,,and ,,stool1 #aab ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,dowel-,,cutting ,,tool1 #aae ,a ,,medicine ,,cabinet1 #aaf ,list of ,illustrations ,finished ,buffet1 #e ,details of ,buffet1 #e ,hall ,clock ,complete1 #aa ,details of ,hall ,clock1 #aa ,rocking ,chair ,complete1 #ae ,details of ,rocking ,chair1 #ae ,arm ,chair ,having ,bent-,wood ,back1 #ai ,details of ,curved ,back ,arm ,chair1 #ai ,parts ,held ,together by ,keys1 #bb ,details of ,plate ,rack1 #bc ,marking ,bore ,holes for ,dowels1 #bd ,table ,complete1 #be ,details of ,magazine ,table1 #bg ,illustration1 #bg ,illustration1 #bi ,detail of ,writing ,desk1 #bi ,writing ,desk ,complete1 #ca ,couch ,complete1 #cd ,details of ,mission ,couch1 #ce ,details of ,shade1 #ch ,electric ,shade ,complete1 #ci ,steaming ,box1 #da ,hose ,attached to ,teakettle1 #da ,form ,blocks1 #da ,smoking ,stand ,details1 #dc ,finished ,smoking ,stand1 #dc ,details of ,china ,closet1 #dg ,china ,closet ,complete1 #di ,footstool ,leather ,covered1 #ea ,details of ,footstool1 #eb ,mantel ,clock with ,wood and ,copper ,front1 #ec ,details of ,mantel ,clock1 #ed ,details of ,music ,stand1 #ee ,music ,stand ,complete1 #ee ,illustration1 #eh ,wall ,case ,details1 #fj ,case with ,mirror ,door1 #fa ,side ,chair ,complete1 #fc ,details of ,side ,chair1 #fd ,arm ,chair ,complete1 #fg ,details of ,chair1 #fh ,completed ,bookcase1 #gj ,details of ,bookcase1 #gj ,details of ,lamp ,stand1 #gd ,electric ,lamp ,stand ,complete1 #ge ,extension ,dining ,table ,complete1 #gg ,details of ,dining ,table1 #gg ,details of ,cedar ,chest1 #gi ,cedar ,chest ,complete1 #hc ,boring ,holes for ,tenons1 #hd ,details of ,dresser1 #he ,dresser ,complete1 #hh ,drawer ,construction1 #hi ,sawing ,tenons1 #ia ,artistic ,mission ,style ,oil ,lamp1 #ia ,bronze ,shade ,holder1 #ia ,china ,closet with ,latticework ,doors and ,sides1 #if ,details of ,china ,closet1 #if ,oak ,bedstead ,complete1 #ii ,details of ,oak ,bedstead1 #aja ,details of ,footstool1 #ajc ,footstool ,complete1 #ajc ,table and ,seat ,decorated in ,pyro-,carving1 #aje ,grille for an ,arch1 #ajg ,details of ,writing ,desk1 #aji ,desk ,complete1 #aaj ,stand and ,stool ,complete1 #aab ,details of ,stand and ,stool1 #aab ,easy ,way to ,make ,dowels1 #aaf ,medicine ,cabinet ,complete1 #aaf ,details of ,medicine ,cabinet1 #aag ,,an ,,oak ,,buffet ,illustration3 ,finished ,buffet ,illustration3 ,details of ,buffet ,the accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously regarded4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome piece of mission furniture4 ,the material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,following is a list of the stock needed3 #b back posts1 #b by #b by #dg-c_/d in4 #b front posts1 #b by #b by #de-a_/b in4 #d rails1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ej-a_/b in4 #b end rails1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ah-a_/b in4 #d end rails1 #c_/d by #d by #ah-a_/b in4 #d pieces for end panel1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #ba in4 #b panels1 #c_/h by #ab by #ba in4 #a top board1 #c_/d by #ag-a_/b by #dg-a_/d in4 #a back board1 #c_/d by #aa-a_/b by #dg-a_/d in4 #a shelf board1 #c_/d by #b by #df in4 #b brackets1 #a by #b by #g-c_/d in4 #d pieces for doors1 #c_/d by #d by #aa in4 #b panels1 #c_/h by #aa by #ag-a_/b in4 #a piece for drawer1 #c_/d by #h by #bb-a_/b in4 #a piece for drawer1 #c_/d by #g-a_/b by #bb-a_/b in4 #a piece for drawer1 #c_/d by #g by #bb-a_/b in4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #h by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #g-a_/b by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #g by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #a piece1 #a_/b by #h by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #a piece1 #a_/b by #g-a_/b by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #a piece1 #a_/b by #g by #ai-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #a bottom board1 #c_/d by #ag-a_/b by #dg-a_/d in42 soft wood4 #b partitions 7several pieces71 #c_/d by #bj by #bd-c_/d in4 #b front pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #bc in4 #b back pieces4 #c_/d by #b by #bc in42 soft wood4 #b side pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #ba-a_/b in42 soft wood4 #a back 7several pieces71 #c_/h by #be by #df in4 #a mirror frame 7to suit mirror74 ,x_/ ,start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length in pairs and beveling the tops as shown4 ,clamp all four pieces on a flat surface with the bottom ends even1 then lay out the mortises for the rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square4 ,this insures getting the mortises all the same height4 ,the back posts also have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown4 ,lay out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same manner4 ,cut them to fit the mortises in the posts1 also rabbet the back rails for the backing4 ,cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and the side pieces for the panels4 ,lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the corners to fit about the posts4 ,these boards are fastened to the #a-a_/b-;in4 square rails with dowels and glue4 ,they can now be glued together and set away to dry4 ,the top board is of oak1 and be sure to get the best side up1 while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if desired4 ,the partitions are made of several boards glued together4 ,be careful to get an oak board on the outer edge4 ,the drawer slides are set into the partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the inside4 ,the top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown4 ,the shelf is also rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws4 ,a plate glass mirror should be provided for the back4 ,this is fitted to the back board as shown1 then the brackets put up at the ends of the mirror frame4 ,the main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together4 ,before applying any glue1 see that all the joints fit together perfectly4 ,the end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry4 ,be very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and straight1 else you will have trouble later on4 ,when these ends are dry slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already fastened to the top and bottom boards4 ,the back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done4 ,pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to dry4 ,the doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take the #c_/h-;in4 panel which is glued in place4 ,the drawers are made as shown in the sketch4 ,the front board should be oak1 but the remainder can be made of soft wood4 ,the joints are nailed and glued4 ,suitable hinges for the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided4 ,antique copper trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware store4 ,the back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner4 ,scrape all surplus glue from about the joints1 as stain will not take where there is any glue4 ,finish smooth with fine sandpaper1 then apply the stain you like best4 ,this can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,,oak ,,stain ,an easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the fumed effect1 is to boil catechu in the proportion of #a_/d lb4 to #f lb4 of water1 after which cool and strain4 ,apply this to the wood1 and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion as with the catechu4 ,bichromate of potash alone in water will give a good stain4 ,a solution of #b oz4 of pearl ash and #b oz4 of potash mixed in a quart of water makes a good stain4 ,potash solution darkens the wood1 and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue1 due to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber4 ,a ,,plain ,,oak ,,hall ,,clock ,the hall clock shown in the illustration should be made of plain oak4 ,the following pieces will be needed to make it3 #b back posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ha in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b front posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ba in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b front posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #dd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #aj front and back horizontals1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #aj side horizontals1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a face1 #c_/h by #ad by #ad in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,,front ,,doors #d rails1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ah in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d stiles1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ab in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #c_/d by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #c_/d by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,,back #a piece1 #c_/h by #ad by #ba in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b pieces1 #c_/h by #ad by #ah in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #ad in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,,top ,,side ,,panels #b pieces1 #c_/h by #i-a_/b by #ad in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #f vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #ad in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b middle side panels1 #c_/d by #i-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,,lower ,,side ,,panels #h vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #c_/d by #ah in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h vertical mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #ah in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #c_/d by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h horizontal mullions1 #c_/af by #e_/h by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,if the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard lengths1 he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with no more work for himself4 ,begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing4 ,lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails4 ,these mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later with lag screws as is the clock shown4 ,they may be what are known as stub tenons and mortises4 ,the tenons are not more than #a_/b in4 long1 just enough to keep the rail from turning about4 ,next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails4 ,bore the holes for the lag screws1 being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes will miss each other4 ,use a #c_/h by #c-;in4 lag screw1 boring the hole in the tenon with a #a_/d-;in4 bit the full depth the screw is to enter4 ,the side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails1 and before the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places4 ,illustration3 ,hall ,clock ,complete ,illustration3 ,details of ,hall ,clock ,the mullions of the lower side panels1 it will be noted1 are specified #e_/h and #c_/d in4 wide4 ,the #e_/h-;in4 pieces are for the central parts of the frame and the others for the outside4 ,the frame is to be made #a_/h in4 larger all around than the distance between the posts and between the rails so that it may be set in grooves cut in the posts and the rails to a similar depth1 #a_/h in4 ,this is true1 also1 of the mullions of the front doors4 ,square up the shelves so that they may be set into grooves in the adjacent rails4 ,the middle shelf is to have an overhang and will rest upon the rails4 ,the mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width1 and it is not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts4 ,the wood panel back of them gives ample strength4 ,it is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are placed1 and which becomes the face of the clock4 ,it is better to fit this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front4 ,make the doors1 tenoning the rails into the stiles and grooving both to receive the mullioned framework of #c_/af-;in4 stuff4 ,put the whole frame together1 using good hot glue for the joints4 ,when the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off1 fit the doors and hinge them4 ,butterfly surface hinges look well and are the easiest to apply4 ,thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts preparatory to applying the finish4 ,to finish1 apply one coat of mission oak water stain4 ,when dry1 sandpaper lightly1 using ,no4 #jj paper4 ,apply a second coat1 diluted with an equal amount of water4 ,sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat of shellac to keep the filler color1 which follows1 from discoloring the high lights4 ,when the shellac has had time to harden1 sand lightly and put on a coat of paste filler4 ,use light filler1 colored with umber and ,venetian red in the proportion of #ab oz1 of umber1 and #d oz4 of red to #bj lb4 of filler4 ,the directions for applying the filler will be found on the can labels4 ,on the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,sand the shellac lightly and put on several coats of some good floor wax1 polishing well according to the directions on the can4 ,this is what is known as a mission oak finish and is quite popular for this type of furniture design4 ,the metal figures for the dial come with the clock movement4 ,some of the movements come already set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do is to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing boxes and fasten them to the frame with screws from the back4 ,a clock with dial figures1 eight-day movement1 striking the hours and half hours1 with cathedral gong can be bought for #d1 possibly less4 ,a ,,rocking ,,chair ,in furniture construction such as this1 nothing is gained by trying to plane up the stock out of the rough4 ,this is mere drudgery and can be more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery4 ,there will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts4 ,order the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below4 ,plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate4 ,some people like quartered white oak better1 however4 ,the cost is about the same4 ,the stock for the chair is as follows3 ,widths and thicknesses are specified exact except for the rear posts and the rockers2 but to the lengths enough surplus stock has been added to allow for squaring the ends4 #b front posts1 #a-e_/h by #b-a_/d by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b back posts1 #a-e_/h by #aa by #dj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a front horizontal1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #bb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back horizontal1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b back horizontals1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b side horizontals1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b back slats1 #e_/af by #c-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b arms1 #a by #d-a_/b by #be in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a rocker1 #b-a_/d by #f by #cc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #e bottom slats1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,illustration3 ,rocking ,chair ,complete ,illustration3 ,details of ,rocking ,chair ,begin work on the posts first4 ,the front posts should have one end of each squared1 after which they can be cut to the exact length4 ,the rear posts1 according to the stock bill1 are specified for the exact thickness4 ,by exercising forethought1 both may be got from the piece ordered4 ,the tops and bottoms of the posts should have their edges slightly chamfered to prevent their slivering4 ,the shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary1 but the drawing indicates quite clearly how it is cut4 ,the arm is fastened to the posts by means of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair have been put together4 ,now prepare the curved parts of the back4 ,these parts are worked to size1 after which they are thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms described on another page4 ,these forms should have a surface curve whose radius is #bb in4 ,while the parts are drying out1 go ahead with the cutting of the mortises and tenons of post and rail4 ,inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back by #b in41 allowance must be made for slant either in the tenons of the side rails or in the mortises4 ,this will necessitate the use of the bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons4 ,the slats for the bottom are made long enough so that their ends may be let into the front and back rails1 a #c_/d-;in4 groove being plowed to receive them4 ,assemble the back1 then the front2 and when the glue on them has dried1 put the side rails in place1 then the arms4 ,the chair should now be scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish4 ,the cushion shown in the picture is made of ,spanish roan skin leather and is filled with elastic felt4 ,such cushions can be purchased at the upholsterer's or they can be made by the craftsman himself4 ,frequently the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather thongs4 ,a ,,curved ,,back ,,arm ,,chair ,the arm chair1 the picture and drawing of which is given herewith is a companion piece to the rocker described on another page4 ,with the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives the thicknesses and widths exact4 ,to the length1 however1 enough has been added to allow squaring up the ends4 ,plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this4 ,front posts1 #b pieces1 #a-e_/h by #b-a_/d by #bf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,back posts1 #a piece1 #a-e_/h by #h by #de in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,front horizontals1 #b pieces1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #ba-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,rear horizontals1 #d pieces1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #ai-a_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,side horizontals1 #d pieces1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,back slats1 #b pieces1 #e_/af by #c-a_/b by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,arms1 #b pieces1 #a-a_/h by #d by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,seat slats1 #e pieces1 #a_/b by #b-a_/d by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the rear ones ,chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall not splinter through usage4 ,next lay out the mortises and tenons4 ,the curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed as described on another page4 ,the curved form to which the steamed piece is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than is wanted in the piece1 as the piece when released will tend to straighten a little4 ,the arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the forms4 ,the rails of the front and back may be tenoned1 too4 ,it should be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back4 ,this will necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the shoulders ,the bevel square will be needed in laying out the shoulders of the tenons4 ,illustration3 ,arm ,chair ,having ,bent-,wood ,back ,illustration3 ,details of ,curved ,back ,arm ,chair ,assemble the back1 then the front4 ,when the glue has hardened on these parts so that the clamps may be removed1 put in the side rails or horizontals and again adjust the clamps4 ,the arms are to be fastened to the posts with dowels and glue4 ,the seat1 it will be seen from the drawing1 is to be a loose leather cushion to rest upon slats4 ,these seat slats may be fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back seat rails or they may be let in to these rails by grooving their inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place4 ,the latter method is more workmanlike1 but more difficult4 ,a cushion such as is shown can be purchased ready made up1 or it may be made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of ,spanish leather cut to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather thong4 ,it may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers use4 ,probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak4 ,put on a coat of weather oak oil stain1 sandpaper lightly when dry and then put on a very thin coat of shellac4 ,sand this lightly and follow with two or more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well4 ,a ,,plate ,,rack ,the plate rack shown in the accompanying illustration is designed for use in a room furnished in mission style4 ,the dimensions may be changed to suit the wall space4 ,the parts are held together entirely by keys4 ,the bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out1 but this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall4 ,the following list of material will be needed1 and1 if the builder does not care to do the rough work1 the stock can be ordered planed1 sanded and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given4 #b ends1 #g_/h by #e by #bj in4 #a top1 #g_/h by #f by #cf in4 #a shelf1 #g_/h by #e by #cf in4 #a bar1 #g_/h in4 square by #cf in4 #d keys4 ,scrap pieces will do4 ,lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the shelf1 also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings4 ,in laying these out1 work from the back edge of the pieces4 ,cut the tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces1 numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in the proper mortises4 ,mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive the tenons on the end pieces4 ,illustration3 ,parts ,held ,together by ,keys ,in laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when the keys are driven in the mortises4 ,all the mortises and diamond shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides of the board4 ,if the bar is used1 it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as shown4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,plate ,rack ,finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain4 ,when thoroughly dry1 apply a very thin coat of shellac4 ,finish with two coats of wax4 ,the rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates fastened on the back edges of the end pieces4 ,,tool ,,for ,,marking ,,dowel ,,holes ,on some work it is quite difficult to locate the exact point for a dowel1 but with the tool illustrated placed between the joint to be made and the parts gently pressed together you have the exact point for the dowel in each piece4 ,the tool is made from a piece of sheet steel about #a_/b in4 square with a pin having a point on both ends driven in the center1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,the tool is placed between the pieces that are to be joined1 as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the small pin will mark the point for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite4 ,illustration3 ,marking ,bore ,holes for ,dowels ,a ,,magazine ,,table ,this little magazine table will be found a very useful piece of furniture for the den or library4 ,its small size permits it to be set anywhere in a room without being in the way4 ,quarter-sawed oak should be used in its construction1 and the following pieces will be needed3 #d legs1 #b by #b by #bi in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d end slats1 #a_/b by #b by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a shelf1 #a by #af by #cj in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #a top board1 #a by #ah by #cf in41 ,s-#a-,s4 ,if you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,this will save you considerable labor4 ,the four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to prevent the corners from splitting4 ,the mortises for the shelf should be cut #i in4 from the top of each leg1 as shown in the sketch4 ,care should be taken to make these a perfect fit4 ,illustration3 ,table ,complete ,the shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges1 and the corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs4 ,an enlarged view of this joint is shown in the sketch4 ,the top board may have to be made of two #i-;in4 boards1 dove-tailed and glued together4 ,it should be finished on the top side and the edges4 ,the edges can be beveled if desired4 ,the board is fastened to the legs by means of screws through four small brass angles4 ,these angles can be made or they can be purchased at any hardware store4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,magazine ,table ,the top board and the shelf should be mortised at each end for the #a_/b by #b-;in4 slats4 ,these slats should be finished on all sides4 ,the table is now ready to be assembled and glued together4 ,the glue should dry at least #bd hours before the clamps are removed4 ,after the glue is dry1 carefully go over the entire table with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots4 ,it can now be finished in any one of the mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,a ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket ,a waste paper basket of pleasing design1 and very easy to construct1 is shown in the accompanying sketch4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use1 and it is also the easiest to obtain4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #a bottom piece1 #c_/d by #i in4 square4 #d corner pieces1 #c_/d in4 square by #ae-a_/b in4 #d top rails1 #c_/d in4 square by #g-a_/b in4 #ab slats1 #a_/d by #c_/d by #af-a_/d in4 #d blocks1 #a in4 square4 #d ,f4,h4 screws1 #b-a_/b in4 long4 #bd ,r4,h4 screws1 #c_/d in4 long4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket ,if the pieces are ordered from the mill cut to length1 squared and sanded1 much labor will be saved4 ,first bevel the ends of the corner posts and the slats1 as shown1 and finish them with sandpaper4 ,bore the holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel pins4 ,these pins should be about #c_/h in4 in diameter and #c_/d in4 long4 ,when this is done the parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry4 ,the four blocks #a in4 square are for the feet4 ,bore holes through these blocks and the corners of the bottom board for the large screws to go through4 ,fasten them together by running the screws through the blocks1 and the board into the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch4 ,the #a_/d-;in4 slats can now be fastened on with the small round-headed screws4 ,they should be evenly spaced on the four sides4 ,this completes the basket except for the finish4 ,this can be any one of the many finishes supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,details ,,of ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket ,,an ,,oak ,,writing ,,desk ,for the writing desk shown in the accompanying picture the following stock will be needed4 ,the thicknesses of all the pieces are specified4 ,on the legs the widths1 too1 are specified4 ,quarter-sawed white oak is the best wood to use1 and it should be well seasoned and clear of shakes and other imperfections4 ,,stock ,,bill #b front posts1 #a-e_/h by #a-e_/h by #cd in41 ,s-#d-,s41 oak4 #b back posts1 #a-e_/h by #a-e_/h by #db in41 ,s-#d-,s41 oak4 #b lower side rails1 #c_/d by #c-a_/d by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a lower back rail1 #c_/d by #c-a_/d by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #i by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #aj-a_/b by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a back1 #c_/d by #i by #bf in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a back1 #c_/d by #aj-a_/b by #bf in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a top1 #c_/d by #f by #cj-;in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a lid1 #c_/d by #ae by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #b side shelves1 #c_/d by #e by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #d braces1 #c_/d by #a-a_/d by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #a bottom of case1 #c_/d by #af by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 ,,interior #a piece1 #c_/d by #af by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #d drawer and case bottom supports1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #f drawer and case bottom supports1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #d drawer guides1 #c_/d by #c_/d by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 ,,drawers #b front pieces1 #c_/d by #g-a_/b by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s41 oak4 #d side pieces1 #c_/h by #g-a_/b by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #b back pieces1 #c_/h by #g by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #b bottom pieces1 #c_/h by #af by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 ,,pigeon ,,holes #a bottom1 #c_/af by #g-a_/d by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #a top1 #c_/af by #d-a_/b by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #d verticals1 #c_/af by #g-a_/d by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #a vertical1 #c_/af by #d-a_/b by #d in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #e horizontals1 #c_/af by #g-a_/b by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #b horizontals1 #d-a_/b by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 ,,drawers ,,in ,,pigeon ,,holes #b front1 #c_/h by #b-a_/d by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #d sides1 #c_/af by #b-a_/d by #g-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #b backs1 #c_/af by #b-a_/d by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 #b bottoms1 #c_/af by #g-a_/d by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s41 poplar4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,writing ,desk ,begin work by cutting the posts to length and shape4 ,having done this1 lay out the tenons on the lower rails so as to have the required distances between the shoulders1 and then cut them4 ,now cut the parts to be worked into the frames that support the drawer and bottom of the case1 and glue them properly4 ,while this is drying1 the other parts of the case may be laid out and shaped4 ,it is intended that the sides of the case shall splice on the edge of the bottom of the pigeon hole case4 ,in this manner the side shelves will cover the joint on either end4 ,the back may be made up into one solid piece4 ,make the side pieces of the case long enough to be housed into the posts about #c_/h in4 at each end4 ,illustration3 ,writing ,desk ,complete ,the shelves at the ends of the desk should be fastened after the frame is put together and before the bottom of the case for the pigeon holes is fitted and fastened4 ,in so doing the shelves may be fastened from the inside of the case4 ,the angles of the braces are #cj-fj deg4 ,it will be noted that the edges of the lid are rabbeted4 ,another way is to have the lid large enough to fit entirely over the sides of the case and change the slope to correspond4 ,the drawers may be made next4 ,the fronts should be of oak1 but the other parts of yellow poplar4 ,an examination of an ordinary drawer will show the manner of construction4 ,make the frame of the pigeon holes of #c_/af-;in4 yellow poplar4 ,the drawing shows an arrangement entirely independent of the sides of the desk so that the frame can be made and slipped in place after the finish has been put on4 ,two drawers are shown4 ,these are faced front and back alike so as to secure as much room in the drawer as possible4 ,in the finishing1 the poplar wood should be finished with white shellac in the natural light color of the wood4 ,for the oak parts the following is appropriate for this design3 ,apply one coat of green ,flemish water stain4 ,when this has dried1 sandpaper lightly until the raised grain has been removed1 and apply another coat of stain diluted one-half with water4 ,when dry1 sand lightly and apply a very thin coat of shellac4 ,sand lightly and apply a coat of dark filler1 natural filler colored with lamp-black1 according to the somberness of the finish desired4 ,upon this put a coat of orange shellac4 ,after this1 put on two coats of a good rubbing varnish4 ,rub the first coats with curled hair or haircloth and the last with pulverized pumice stone and raw linseed oil or crude oil4 ,,an ,,oak ,,couch ,,with ,,cushions ,this beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate cost1 if the material used for the cushions is of good imitation leather4 ,these substitutes for leather last fully as long and the difference can only be detected by an expert4 ,white oak will give the best results except for the frames or slats on which the cushions rest and these may be made of poplar or pine4 ,if a mill or woodworking shop of any kind is handy1 the hardest part of the work can be saved by securing the following list of material1 cut1 planed1 sanded and squared up to the exact sizes given3 #b posts1 #c in4 square by #ag in4 #b posts1 #c in4 square by #bf in4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #h by #hb in4 #a rail1 #g_/h by #h by #be in4 #a end1 #g_/h by #ah by #be in4 #a piece1 #g_/h by #i by #bd-a_/b in4 ,the last piece on the list when sawed diagonal makes the two slanting pieces at the head of the couch4 ,the corner braces are made from two pieces of straight-grained oak1 #b by #d-a_/b by #d-a_/b in41 sawed on the diagonal1 and cut as shown in the enlarged plan section to make the four pieces4 ,first be sure the legs are perfectly square1 the two short ones and the two long ones of equal length respectively4 ,either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired1 chisel and plane the taper on the lower ends4 ,lay out and cut all the tenons on the rails--#a in4 is the amount allowed at each end in the stock dimensions given4 ,arrange the posts and rails in the positions they are to occupy in the finished couch4 ,number each tenon and the place its corresponding mortise is to be cut in the post4 ,mark each mortise directly from the tenon which is to fit into it1 taking care to have all the rails an equal distance from the floor4 ,bore and chisel out all mortises and see that all the rails fit perfectly1 before proceeding with the work4 ,illustration3 ,couch ,complete ,the next step will be to fit in the slanting side pieces at the head of the couch4 ,these must be let into the long posts #a_/b in4 and held also by a dowel in the side rail4 ,in order to get these pieces into place1 the mortise in the long post must be made #a_/b in4 longer than the tenon on the sloping side piece so the tenon may be first pushed into the mortise and then the side clamped down on the rail over the dowel4 ,the whole couch should fit together perfectly before gluing any of the parts4 ,glue the end parts together first4 ,hot glue will hold best if the room and lumber are warm2 if these cannot be had1 use cold glue4 ,after the ends have set for at least #bd hours1 glue in place the side rails and slanting head pieces4 ,screw in place the corner braces4 ,be sure when making these braces to have the grain running diagonally across the corner1 or the brace will be weak1 also1 be sure the sides are square with the ends2 this may be determined by measuring the diagonals to find if they are equal4 ,if it is decided to use frames for the cushions1 then the following material will be necessary3 #b pieces1 #g_/h by #b by #ef in4 #b pieces1 #g_/h by #b by #be in4 #d pieces #g_/h by #b by #ba in4 ,this material may be of pine or poplar4 ,these pieces are made into two frames as shown in the drawing and held together with long screws or nails4 ,fasten with glue and screw short blocks on the inside of the couch rails for holding the two frames in place4 ,tack pieces of cheap burlap across the frame and cover with ordinary black cambric4 ,this will give a strong1 springy rest for the cushions4 ,should slats be used instead of frames for holding the cushions1 then the following list of material should be substituted for the frame material list3 #b cleats1 #g_/h by #b by #ef in4 #b cleats1 #g_/h by #b by #be in4 #ab slats1 #c_/d by #e by #be in4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,mission ,couch ,the materials listed may be of soft wood the same as for the frame4 ,the cleats are fastened to the inside of the rails of the couch with screws1 so the top edge will be #b in4 lower than the top edge of the rails4 ,the slats are spaced evenly on these cleats4 ,after the glue is all set1 remove the clamps and scrape off any glue that may be on the wood4 ,if this glue is not removed it will keep the stain from entering the wood1 which will show up when finished in white spots4 ,this couch may be stained in any of the shades of brown or dark to harmonize with its lines of construction4 ,a water stain will penetrate the wood best and after this is applied and thoroughly dried the surface should be well sanded to remove the roughness of the raised grain4 ,apply one coat of thin shellac and when this is dry1 put on two coats of wax4 ,in making up the cushions1 use either hair or elastic felt for the filling4 ,,electric ,,shade ,,for ,,the ,,dining ,,room ,the dining shade shown is constructed of wood and glass4 ,there will be needed the following3 #h pieces1 #c_/d by #c_/d by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #d pieces1 #c_/d by #c_/d by #d in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #d pieces1 #c_/d by #c_/d by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #d pieces1 #c_/h by #c_/d by #bc in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #h pieces1 #c_/h by #c_/d by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #d pieces1 #c_/h by #c_/d by #i in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 #a piece1 #c_/d by #h by #h in41 ,s-#d-,s1 oak4 ,begin work by shaping the ends of the longest pieces as shown in the drawing4 ,all the angles are #de deg4 ,next lay out the cross-lap joints at the corners so that two sets of horizontal frames shall be formed #bc by #bc in4 ,cut four pieces to a length of #c in4 each4 ,also shape up the false extensions of these pieces which are to be fastened below the lower frame at the corners4 ,since these are to be cut from the pieces just specified1 the easiest way is to shape the end of each to the required angle and then crosscut4 ,rabbet these pieces sufficient to allow the art glass to set in on the back sides and be fastened--about #a_/d in4 will do--and put them together with glue and brads4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,shade ,now make the top square in a similar manner1 except the rabbets4 ,in this top square is to be fitted the #c_/d-;in4 board which is to hold the lights and to which the chains are to be fastened4 ,the sloping sides are next to be made4 ,the sides are to be built up separately1 the corners being lapped and glued after rabbeting the under arrises sufficient to let the glass in4 ,the four sides are mitered together at their edges and reinforced by covering the joint with copper4 ,these sides are next mitered to the top and bottom frames and made fast on the under sides with copper strips1 glue being used on the edges of the wood4 ,the shade shown had a mottled glass in which greens predominated4 ,the sizes and shapes of these pieces of glass would better be determined after the woodwork is finished4 ,illustration3 ,electric ,shade ,complete ,one manner of fastening the chains is clearly shown in the photograph4 ,such a combination will call for an extra piece of oak1 #c_/d by #c-a_/d by #c-a_/d in4 finished stock4 ,a good finish for this shade is obtained as follows3 ,put on a coat of silver gray water stain4 ,when this has dried1 sand lightly with ,no4 #jj sandpaper and apply a coat of golden oak oil stain4 ,allow this to dry after wiping the surplus off with a cloth4 ,put on a coat of black paste filler and allow to harden over night4 ,when dry1 sand lightly and put on a coat of very thin shellac4 ,sand this lightly when hard and put on a coat of wax4 ,this is a very dark finish relieved by high lights of lighter brown and is known as ,antwerp oak4 ,,how ,,to ,,bend ,,wood ,the process for making bent wood for furniture parts is the same as for any other kind of bent-wood work4 ,the pieces should be made close to the size1 with only enough material left on them for cleaning up after the bending has been done4 ,the pieces used for the bent work should be good1 clean1 live lumber4 ,lumber dried on the stump will not bend4 ,a box must be made in which to steam the pieces of wood to be bent4 ,a design of a steaming box is shown in the illustration4 ,such a box is made by nailing four boards together into a square or rectangular form1 the boards having a length sufficient to take in the length of the furniture parts to be bent4 ,both ends of the finished box are squared up and closed with a board cut to the size1 using felt or gunny sack in the joint to make it as tight as possible4 ,these ends can be nailed on1 but it is best to hold them with a bar of metal set against each one4 ,nailing the ends a few times would spoil the box for further use in steaming4 ,illustration3 ,,steaming ,,box ,illustration3 ,,hose ,,attached ,,to ,,teakettle4 ,illustration3 ,,form ,,blocks ,a good teakettle will serve the purpose for a steam generator4 ,a hose is attached to the spout of the teakettle1 as shown in the illustration1 and to the steaming box in a like manner4 ,the steaming box should be provided with a short piece of gas pipe turned into a hole bored into one of the sides used for the top on which to attach the hose4 ,a small hole should be bored into one side of one end of the steaming box1 and this end should be arranged a trifle lower than the other end4 ,the hole will permit the water of condensation to escape4 ,steam should not escape from the box when a charge of wood is being softened4 ,steam which escapes from the box in the form of vapor has done no work whatever1 and is just so much waste of fuel4 ,in order to give up its heat to the wood1 the steam must condense and come away from the box as water4 ,therefore1 in steaming a charge of pieces in the box1 never crowd the teakettle so hard that the steam escapes around the heads of the box or through any other joints4 ,the steam should be supplied to the box just as fast as it condenses1 and no faster4 ,when the pieces are placed in the box they should be so arranged that the steam can find ready access to all sides of each piece4 ,the curve or bend of the piece to be made must be marked out on a wide board or on the floor4 ,nail down several blocks of wood or pieces cut out like brackets on the board or floor against the drawing1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the wood is sprung between these blocks or forms after it has been softened by steam4 ,when taking the steamed pieces from the box do not lose any time in securing them to the forms4 ,do not take out more than one piece at a time1 as it must be bent to the forms immediately after taking it from the hot steam4 ,the time of the steaming will vary with the size of the pieces4 ,small strips may be steamed in #ae or #bj minutes1 while large ones may require several hours to become soft enough to bend4 ,the pieces must be left in the forms until they are thoroughly dry4 ,a ,,smoking ,,stand ,when making the smoking stand shown in the accompanying photograph1 use quarter-sawed oak1 if possible1 as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains4 ,this little piece of furniture is very attractive1 easy to construct1 and is an article that a smoker would appreciate4 ,if the stock is purchased finished and sandpapered1 it will save much of the hard work4 ,the material needed is as follows3 ,one piece1 #g_/h by #ab in4 by #i ft4 long1 for the legs4 ,one piece1 #g_/h by #aj in4 by #d ft4 long1 for the top4 ,one piece1 #g_/h by #h in4 by #a ft4 long1 for the shelves4 ,one piece1 #a_/b by #b in4 by #f ft4 long1 for the pipe rack4 ,the legs can be made first4 ,cut four pieces off the #ab-;in4 board1 each exactly #be in4 long1 and lay each one out with a pair of compasses as shown in the detail drawing at ,fig4 #a4 ,with a circle or keyhole saw cut out the piece1 then shave out the saw marks and sandpaper smooth4 ,illustration3 ,smoking ,stand ,details ,illustration3 ,finished ,smoking ,stand ,next take the #h-;in4 board and make the shelves4 ,set a bevel protractor at a #de-;deg4 angle1 lay out the pieces as shown in ,fig4 #e1 and cut them out with a saw4 ,eight pieces are cut out as shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,these pieces can be cut out of the scraps left from cutting the legs and shelves4 ,cut them so that the grain runs the long way4 ,place two of these braces on the bench with the beveled ends toward each other1 but with a piece of #g_/h-;in4 stock between them1 and the other two beveled ends resting against a straightedge4 ,fasten them to the bench with a couple of nails1 leaving the heads sticking up so that you can pull them later with a claw hammer4 ,remove the straightedge and slide the piece that is between the braces along until it projects #d or #e in4 from the side formed by the straightedge4 ,then place two more braces in the corners formed by this piece1 put two #g_/h-;in4 pieces between the two braces that are fastened1 and the two that are loose1 so that each brace will be in its proper place4 ,fasten the last two the same as the first pair4 ,then remove all the pieces from between the braces and place the tops of the legs in their stead4 ,these should be fastened to the braces with #a-;in4 screws of small diameter1 put in at an angle4 ,bore a hole in straight for about #a_/d-;in4 with a #a_/d-;in4 bit for each screw1 and then run a gimlet at an angle into the leg4 ,after you have the legs fastened to the first set of braces1 measure up from the bench #aj in4 and put in another set1 being careful to get them all the same distance from the bench1 as the inner corners of the shelves rest on these braces4 ,now pull out the nails and set the stand on its feet4 ,next put in the shelves4 ,place the inner corner of one on one of the braces1 and fasten it there with a screw put through the brace from the bottom4 ,now fasten a clamp on each leg at the ends of the shelf in such a manner as to form a support on the top side of the shelf4 ,then put four screws through the shelf from the bottom into the legs4 ,repeat the operation on each shelf1 being careful to get them all the same height4 ,four pieces like ,fig4 #c should now be made4 ,these pieces will have to be fitted in place as they should slant outward so that it will be easy to put articles through the holes4 ,the holes should be about #e_/h-;in4 diameter4 ,the top can be made by cutting off two pieces from the #aj-;in4 board1 each #bj in4 long1 and fastening them together with dowels4 ,smooth the ends and be sure that the boards match evenly4 ,it makes a better job to glue the top together1 in addition to the dowels1 and1 if you do this1 it would be better to make the top first4 ,then it will have time to dry before you are ready to use it4 ,in putting on the top1 care should be taken to get each of the corners an equal distance from the legs4 ,then a screw may be put up through each one of the braces and two or three through each leg into the top4 ,now smooth all rough and uneven places with fine sandpaper and apply the finish4 ,secure some metal matchsafes and scratchers1 fasten on as shown in the photograph1 and the stand is complete4 ,a ,,china ,,closet ,this beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made by anyone who has a few good tools and knows how to use them4 ,the cost is very moderate and if you are convenient to a mill a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering the pieces ready cut to length1 squared1 and sanded4 ,quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as follows3 #d posts1 #b by #b by #ed in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b top and bottom boards1 #c_/d by #ae-c_/d by #ci-a_/b in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #b shelves1 #c_/d by #ae-a_/b by #ch in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lower end braces1 #c_/d by #e by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b upper end braces1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a lower front board1 #c_/d by #c by #dj in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #a upper front board1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #dj in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #d door frames1 #c_/d by #a-c_/d by #dc-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d door frames1 #c_/d by #b by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d upright end pieces1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ci-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #e back pieces1 #a_/b by #h by #df-a_/b in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #b cleats1 #a by #a by #cg-c_/d in41 soft wood4 #d cleats1 #a by #a by #ab-c_/d in41 soft wood4 #d blocks1 #a_/b by #a by #a-a_/b in4 ,first be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length4 ,either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired4 ,the mortises can be laid out and cut1 or they can be left until the tenons are all made and then marked and cut directly from each tenon4 ,the top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts as shown in the drawing4 ,the top board should be finished on both sides and the bottom one on the upper side only and be sure to get the best side up4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,china ,closet ,cut the tenons on the front boards back #a_/d in4 from the face as shown in the end view4 ,the boards should be finished on the outside sides and edges4 ,the end pieces are fitted and finished in a similar manner except that the inside edge is rabbeted for the glass as shown4 ,the side pieces are also rabbeted for the glass and the posts have grooves #a_/b in4 deep cut in them to hold these side pieces4 ,they are glued in place and this can be done after the frame is put together4 ,illustration3 ,china ,closet ,complete ,the two shelves are finished on both sides and the front edges4 ,the doors are fitted in the usual manner by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends4 ,they are rabbeted on the inside for the glass and are finished on all sides4 ,before gluing any of the parts together1 see that they all fit and go together perfectly square4 ,the posts1 side1 and front pieces should be glued and assembled1 then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the clamps are put on4 ,leave dry for about #bd hours1 then scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints as the finish will not take when there is any glue4 ,fasten the top and bottom boards to the frame by means of screws through cleats as shown in the drawing4 ,the backing is put on and finished on the front side4 ,a mirror can be put in the back without much trouble1 if it is desired4 ,the shelves should be put in place and held at the back by screws through the backing and at the front by two small blocks on the posts as shown4 ,after the closet is all assembled it should be thoroughly gone over with fine sandpaper before any finish is applied4 ,it can be finished in any one of the many mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,a ,,leather-,,covered ,,footstool ,the illustration shows a very handy footstool in mission style4 ,the following list of materials will be needed3 #d oak posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ab in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #c by #ab in41 soft wood4 #b ends1 #c_/d by #c by #h in41 soft wood4 #a bottom1 #c_/d by #h by #ab in41 soft wood4 #a small box of #h oz4 tacks #b-a_/b doz4 ornamental head nails4 #a piece of dark leather1 #af by #bj in4 #a_/b lb4 hair and a small portion of mission stain4 ,the posts are the only parts made of quarter-sawed oak1 the other parts1 being covered with leather1 can be made of any kind of soft wood4 ,chamfer the top end of each post1 and taper the lower ends as shown in detail4 ,when this is done the mortises can be cut for the sides as shown in the post detail4 ,when cutting the mortises and tenons take care to make them fit perfectly1 as there is nothing to brace the legs at the bottom4 ,the strength of the stool depends upon the joints4 ,make the surface of the posts smooth by first using ,no4 #a sandpaper1 then finishing with ,no4 #jj4 ,illustration3 ,footstool ,leather ,covered ,the parts are now assembled4 ,first clamp the ends together1 using plenty of glue on the joints1 and drive some small nails on the inside of the posts through the tenon ends4 ,when the glue has set1 the remaining sides can be put together the same as the ends4 ,fit the bottom on the inside about #a in4 from the top4 ,this can be made fast by driving nails through the sides and ends of the board4 ,the finishing is done by putting on the mission stain as the directions state on the can1 then wax the surface to get a dull gloss4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,footstool ,the leather is now put on4 ,notch out the corners to fit around the posts1 but do not cut the ends off4 ,lap them under the cover4 ,before nailing on the cover fix the hair evenly over the top1 about #f in4 deep4 ,draw the leather over the hair and fasten the edges with the #h-oz4 tacks4 ,the ornamental nails are driven in last1 as shown in the drawing1 to make a good appearance4 ,,arts-,,crafts ,,mantel ,,clock ,the clock shown in the illustration was designed especially for rooms furnished in mission style4 ,the clock1 however1 may be made of mahogany or other wood to match the furniture in any room where it is to be placed4 ,if the mission effect is desired1 an oxidized or copper sash should be used4 ,movements can be bought at the salesroom of a clock company4 ,a movement should be selected that is wide enough from the front to the back to allow the clock case to be made sufficiently deep for standing without being easily upset4 ,illustration3 ,mantel ,clock with ,wood and ,copper ,front ,quarter-sawed white oak is the best material for this clock1 but any other wood which works easily and takes a stain well may be used4 ,two pieces1 #c_/h in4 thick1 #f-a_/b in4 wide1 and #h-a_/b in4 long1 will be needed for the front and back4 ,one piece1 #e in4 wide1 #f in4 long1 and with a thickness sufficient for the clock movement1 is needed for the middle part4 ,the thickness of this piece depends on the movement secured4 ,after the front and back pieces are finished1 and a piece of hammered copper screwed on the front as shown in the drawing1 the middle piece must be made just thick enough to make the whole distance from the front of the copper to the back of the clock equal to the depth of the movement4 ,plane one edge on both front and back pieces4 ,lay out the design and the centers for the circular holes from this planed edge4 ,use a plane and chisel to cut the outside design4 ,the hole can be bored out with an expansive bit1 or sawed out with a scroll saw1 and filed perfectly round with a half-round wood file4 ,the bit will give the best results4 ,if the bit is used1 bore holes in a piece of scrap wood until the exact size is found4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,mantel ,clock ,the outside design of the piece of copper is made to correspond to the design of the clock4 ,the circular hole in the copper can be cut with the expansive bit by first punching a hole in the center to receive the spur of the bit1 placing on a block of wood and boring through a little way4 ,the spur on the cutter will cut out the copper4 ,fasten the copper to the front with copper nails or round-headed screws4 ,if good glue can be had1 the three pieces of wood may be glued together4 ,if the glue cannot be relied upon1 put in two flat-headed screws from the back4 ,the clock can be finished with a dark stain and waxed1 or1 as it is small1 it can be easily fumed4 ,if stain is used1 stain and wax the pieces before putting them together4 ,the fuming process is more easily done after the clock is assembled4 ,secure a bucket1 a peck measure1 or any receptacle large enough1 when inverted1 to put over the clock4 ,pour about #b oz4 of strong ammonia into a saucer or small pan4 ,support the clock above the saucer and cover both with the inverted bucket4 ,allow it to stand for three or four days--the longer it stands the darker the fumed finish will be4 ,finish with two coats of bleached wax4 ,do not use ordinary uncolored wax1 as it will show in the unfilled pores of the wood4 ,the works of the clock should not be in the frame while fuming4 ,a ,,music ,,stand ,the attractive and useful piece of mission furniture shown in the accompanying illustration is made of quarter-sawed oak4 ,considerable labor can be saved in its construction if the stock is ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,the stock list consists of the following pieces3 #a top1 #c_/d by #af by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #aa-a_/b by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ab by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ad-a_/b by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #af by #ae in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #d legs1 #c_/d by #e by #da in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lower crosspieces1 #c_/d by #c by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b upper crosspieces1 #c_/d by #b by #i in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d end slats1 #e_/h by #b by #cd in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #bj ,r4,h4 screws1 #b in4 long4 ,the four shelves and the top are so wide that it will be necessary to make them from two or more pieces glued together4 ,the top should have a #a_/d-;in4 bevel cut around the upper edge as shown in the drawing4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,music ,stand ,illustration3 ,music ,stand ,complete ,the curve of the legs can be cut with a bracket saw or a drawknife1 care being taken to get the edges square and smooth4 ,the four crosspieces are fastened to the legs by means of tenons and mortises4 ,the end slats are joined to the crosspieces in the same manner4 ,the legs can be assembled in pairs with the slats and crosspieces in place4 ,they can be glued in this position1 and when dry they should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper to remove all rough spots4 ,the shelves can now be put in place4 ,they should be fastened to the legs with round-headed screws4 ,the top is also fastened on with screws4 ,when applying the finish1 remove the top board and the shelves and finish them separately4 ,the stand can be finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,this handsome piece of furniture can be used as a magazine stand as well as a music stand1 if desired1 and1 if it is made and finished well1 it will prove an ornament to any home4 ,,making ,,screws ,,hold ,,in ,,the ,,end ,,grain ,,of ,,wood ,illustration3 ,,making ,,screws ,,hold ,,in ,,end ,,grain ,it is often necessary to fasten one piece of wood to the end of another by means of screws4 ,wood being a fibrous material1 it can be readily understood that when a screw having sharp threads is put in the end grain parallel to these fibers the threads cut them in such a way that1 when an extra strain is put upon the parts1 the screw pulls out1 bringing with it the severed fibers4 ,the accompanying sketch shows how this difficulty may be overcome1 and at the same time make the screw hold firmly4 ,a hole is bored and a dowel1 preferably of hardwood1 glued in it1 the grain at right angles to that of the piece4 ,the size of the dowel1 and its location1 can be determined by the diameter and the length of the screw4 ,the dowel need not extend all the way through the piece1 but should be put in from the surface where the grain of the dowel will be least objectionable4 ,when putting screws in hard wood much labor will be saved by applying soap to the threads4 ,a ,,wall ,,case ,,with ,a ,,mirror ,,door ,the wall case shown in the accompanying picture will serve well as a medicine case4 ,having a paneled door in which is set a mirror1 it serves equally well as a shaving case4 ,it is best made of some hard wood1 though a soft wood such as pine or yellow poplar will work up easier and look well finished with three or four coats of white enamel paint4 ,there will be needed the following pieces3 #b sides1 #e_/h by #f by #cb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top and #a bottom1 #e_/h by #f by #ah in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top of back1 #a_/b by #d by #af-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a bottom of back1 #a_/b by #c by #af-a_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a shelf1 #e_/h by #e by #af in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back1 #a_/d by #af by #ba in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,,door #b stiles1 #e_/h by #c by #bj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top rail1 #e_/h by #b by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a bottom rail1 #e_/h by #d by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a backing for door1 #c_/af by #aj by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,first shape the ends of the two side pieces as shown in the drawing4 ,next square the top and bottom pieces of the case to size1 and lay out and cut the tenons on the ends4 ,lay out and cut the mortises in the side pieces1 also the groove for the shelf1 having first squared the shelf to size4 ,cut and shape the top and bottom pieces of the back as shown4 ,cut the rebates in the side pieces into which these pieces are to rest their ends4 ,cut the rebate for the back4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper these parts and assemble them4 ,cut and fit the back in place4 ,illustration3 ,wall ,case ,details ,the door is to be made next4 ,plan the different parts of the door so that the edges may be planed to fit the opening2 that is1 make the door a good quarter larger at top and bottom than the opening4 ,in cutting the rebate the easiest way is to use a rabbeting plane and cut the full length of the pieces4 ,by using a tenon on the rails in which one shoulder is as much longer than the other as the rebate is deep there is no resulting groove showing at the corner4 ,illustration3 ,case with ,mirror ,door ,the wood should be finished before the glass is set1 at least1 it should be filled1 if of hard wood1 and one coat of paint put on1 if of soft wood which is to be enameled4 ,in setting the glass1 place a thin cushion of putty between the rebate and the glass and another thin cushion between the glass and the fillet of wood or the backing which is to protect the back of the glass4 ,fit the door1 and then put on the hinges and lock4 ,if desired1 the tenons may be made keyed as shown in the photograph instead of through as shown in the drawing4 ,to finish the case1 if of oak1 apply a coat of light paste filler1 the directions being on the filler can4 ,next put on a coat of white shellac4 ,when this has hardened apply two coats of some good varnish4 ,allow time for each coat to harden and rub the first coats with haircloth or curled hair1 and the last with pulverized pumice and raw linseed oil or crude oil4 ,if the wood is soft and an enamel white is desired1 the enamel is applied not unlike paint4 ,the directions will be found on the cans in which the paint is purchased4 ,a ,,side ,,chair ,a side chair of simple design and construction is here given4 ,the great difficulty with most chair designs is that the back is generally designed narrower than the front1 thus necessitating the rails entering the posts or legs at angles4 ,to the amateur this is quite confusing4 ,the chair illustrated is the same in width1 both back and front1 so that the shoulders of all the rails are at right angles to the sides4 ,the back of the chair is straight1 thus simplifying the design still more4 ,illustration3 ,side ,chair ,complete ,another thing which is confusing to the beginner in his efforts to lay out the mortises is the irregular placing of the rails4 ,it will be noted that in this design the rails of side1 front and back are on the same level4 ,plain sawed red oak will be appropriate for this piece4 ,have the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides to size1 allowing #a_/b in4 extra to the lengths for squaring up the ends4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,side ,chair ,there will be needed the following3 #d rails1 #g_/h by #b by #ag-a_/b in4 #d rails1 #c_/d by #b by #ag-a_/b in4 #b front posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ai in4 #b rear posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #cg-a_/b in4 #a back1 #c_/d by #i-c_/d by #ag-a_/b in4 #b cleats1 #c_/h by #a by #af in4 #d slats1 #c_/h by #b by #af-a_/b in4 ,begin work by cutting the posts to the lengths indicated in the drawing4 ,the lower ends should be chamfered slightly to prevent their splintering from usage4 ,the top ends are cut to an angle of #de deg41 the slope beginning #a_/b in4 below the top4 ,lay out and cut the mortises4 ,to do this1 lay off the measurements on one of the posts1 then place all four side by side on the bench1 with the face marks up4 ,even the ends with the try-square and then carry the measurements just made across all of them1 using the try-square4 ,the rails ought to be shouldered on all four sides4 ,three-eighths inch is a good thickness for the tenons4 ,the width may be #a-a_/d in4 and the length #a in4 ,place the rails side by side on the bench with the joint-edges up and the ends evened4 ,measure off the desired length on one of them and carry the lines across all of them to indicate the location of the shoulder lines4 ,separate the pieces and square these lines entirely around all of the sides of each piece4 ,with the tenon saw rip and cross cut to these lines4 ,the back1 it will be noted1 is set on a slant to add comfort4 ,thoroughly clean all the parts and assemble them1 using good hot glue4 ,put the back together first1 then the front4 ,after these have dried1 put the side rails in place4 ,cut and fit the two cleats--one to the front rail and one to the rear rail4 ,keep them even with the lower edge of the rail so as to form a slight recess at the top when the slats are in place4 ,this is to keep the cushion from sliding off4 ,the slats need not be let into the cleats but merely fastened to their top edges4 ,the cushion may be made of ,spanish roan skin and should be filled with elastic felt4 ,in the chair shown1 the joints are reinforced by the addition of lag screws4 ,if the glue is good and the joints well fitted1 these are not necessary4 ,,an ,,arm ,,chair ,the arm chair here described and illustrated is intended to be one of the set of diners made after the design of the side chair described on another page4 ,the same general directions for making the side chair apply equally to the arm chair4 ,the stock given in the following list should be purchased surfaced on four sides and well sandpapered3 #b rear posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ch in4 #b front posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bf-a_/b in4 #i rails1 #g_/h by #b by #ai-a_/b in4 #a rail1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ai-a_/b in4 #c slats1 #a_/b by #b by #ab-a_/b in4 #b arms1 #g_/h by #d-a_/b by #bj-a_/b in4 #b brackets1 #g_/h by #b-a_/d by #b-a_/b in4 #b cleats1 #c_/h by #a by #ai in4 #d slats1 #c_/h by #b by #ai in4 ,prepare the posts first by cutting them to the lengths shown in the drawing4 ,in the photograph the front posts have their tops cut off square and the arms fastened to them by means of lag screws4 ,a better way from a mechanical point of view would be to shoulder the top ends on the four sides1 cut through-mortises in the arms and insert these tenoned posts into these mortises1 pinning the arm to the post by means of small dowels in the edge of the post and through the tenon4 ,the brackets under the arms are to be fastened to the posts and arms by means of concealed dowels and glue of good quality4 ,all of the rails should be tenoned into the posts thoroughly1 even if the lag screw fastenings are used4 ,if the lag screws are used1 the tenons may be what are known as stubb tenons--tenons of short length4 ,good hot glue should be used in either case4 ,the shape of the arms is indicated in the drawing4 ,they are fastened to the rear posts by means of dowels and glue4 ,illustration3 ,arm ,chair ,complete ,the slats1 or verticals1 of the back should not have their ends tenoned but should have the mortises in the rails cut sufficiently large to let in the whole end of each4 ,this is much easier and more likely to result in a satisfactory fit than to shoulder them4 ,any unevenness in the lengths of the respective slats will not affect the fitting of the joints by this latter method4 ,the tops of the rear posts in this chair1 as in the side chair1 are cut to angles of #de deg41 beginning the slope at lines marked #a_/b in4 from the tops4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,chair ,the bottom is made up of #b-;in4 slats fitted between the front and back rails and fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the insides of the front and back rails4 ,keep these cleats low enough on the rails so that the top surfaces of the slats shall rest somewhat below the top edges of the rails4 ,cushions1 such as the one shown1 can be purchased ready made or they can be easily made by the amateur4 ,a good finish for this chair and its mates is obtained as follows3 ,apply one coat of brown ,flemish water stain4 ,this stain in the original package is very dark in tone and unless an almost black finish is wanted1 it should be lightened by the addition of one-half or two-thirds water4 ,apply with a brush or sponge and allow to dry over night4 ,when dry1 sandpaper lightly with fine or worn sandpaper to remove the raised grain caused by the water of the stain4 ,put on a very thin coat of shellac4 ,this is to prevent the high lights in close-grained woods from being discolored by the stain in the filler which is to follow4 ,the shellac being very thin does not fill the pores of the wood perceptibly4 ,next1 sand the shellac coat lightly when it has hardened4 ,apply a coat of paste filler colored considerably darker than the stain to the tone desired for the open grain4 ,if the filler is well stirred and properly applied1 one coat ought to be sufficient4 ,if it does not fill the pores satisfactorily1 apply another coat when the first has had time to harden4 ,vandyke brown is used to color the filler1 if none but natural color is to be had4 ,on the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,on this apply several coats of wax4 ,the directions for waxing will be found upon the cans in which the wax comes4 ,a ,,bookcase ,this beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate cost by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools4 ,considerable labor can be saved by ordering the material from the mill ready cut to size1 dressed and sanded4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is comparatively easy to obtain4 ,plain-sawed oak looks well1 but is more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones used4 ,for the complete bookcase the following material will be needed3 #a top1 #c_/d by #ae by #ca-a_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#a-,s4 #a top back board1 #c_/d by #d by #cj-a_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#a-,s4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #ad by #ej in41 hard wood1 ,s-#a-,s4 #a bottom1 #c_/d by #ad by #bh-c_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#a-,s4 #a bottom rail1 #c_/d by #d by #bh-c_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#a-,s4 #a center piece1 #c_/d by #b by #de-c_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#b-,s4 #d door sides1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #de-a_/d in41 hard wood1 ,s-#b-,s4 #d door ends1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ad in41 hard wood1 ,s-#b-,s4 #d pieces door lattice1 #a_/b by #a_/b by #ab-a_/b in41 hard wood4 #d pieces door lattice1 #a_/b by #a_/b by #g in41 hard wood4 #b bottom cleats1 #a-a_/d by #a-a_/d by #ac in41 soft wood4 #b top cleats1 #a by #a by #ab-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #c shelves1 #a_/b by #ab by #bh-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #ab pieces backing1 #c_/h by #d by #bi-c_/d in41 soft wood4 #d hinges4 #b door handles4 ,begin with the sides by cutting them so they will pair up all right4 ,the front edges are rounded while the back edges are rabbeted on the inside as deep as the backing to be used4 ,the bottoms are cut as shown in the sketch4 ,holes about #a_/b in4 deep should be bored on the inside at the proper places for the wooden pegs which hold up the shelves4 ,illustration3 ,completed ,bookcase4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,bookcase ,the top and bottom boards should have the front edges rounded and sanded the same as the sides4 ,the top board is sanded on one side only and care should be taken to get the best side up4 ,now cut and fit the top back board4 ,this is fastened to the top by means of screws4 ,screw two cleats to each of the sides as shown and by running screws through these into the top and bottom boards the frame is completed4 ,the backing which can be made of some cheap lumber is now put on4 ,next put in the center upright piece between the doors by means of a tenon and mortise at the top and nail at the bottom4 ,the front edge should be rounded and the edge and sides sanded4 ,cut and fit the bottom rail as shown4 ,it is fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back side4 ,the doors are put together by means of a tenon and mortise4 ,they should be rabbeted for the lattice work and the glass4 ,this lattice work can be omitted and leaded glass put in its place which is very becoming to this kind of work4 ,when the case is completed it must be carefully gone over with sandpaper before any finish is applied4 ,a mission stain is suitable for work of this kind1 but it can also be finished in golden oak which is done in the following manner3 ,first put on a golden oak stain and after it has dried for about #b hours1 apply the filler4 ,let this dry about #aj minutes then rub off with an old rag4 ,then go over the case again with some very fine sandpaper and after seeing that all parts are free from dust and dirt the varnish can be applied4 ,three coats of varnish will give a beautiful glossy finish4 ,a ,,lamp ,,stand ,a mission table lamp stand for those who use electric lights is shown in the accompanying illustration4 ,it is suitable for either the office or the home and is very simple in design and construction4 ,the stock should be quarter-sawed oak and it can be ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #a post1 #a-a_/b in4 sq4 by #bc in4 #a arm1 #a-_/h by #c_/d by #ac-a_/b in4 #a block1 #c_/d in4 thick by #f in4 square4 #a block1 #a in4 thick by #i in4 square4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,lamp ,stand ,square up the base blocks and fasten them together with screws as shown in the detail sketch4 ,a mortise1 #a in4 square1 is cut in the center of the blocks for the center post44 ,lead weights1 covered with felt1 should be attached to the bottom1 as shown4 ,the post has a tenon cut on one end to fit the base1 and a mortise cut in the other for the arm4 ,holes are bored in the arm from the ends for the wires4 ,they can be plugged after the wires are in place4 ,a hole is also bored in the top of the center post to connect with the holes in the arm for the lead wire4 ,illustration3 ,electric ,lamp ,stand ,complete ,it is best to glue the joints together1 although this is not necessary if the joints are a tight fit4 ,sandpaper the parts thoroughly1 then stain to match the other furniture4 ,illustration3 ,extension ,dining ,table ,complete ,,an ,,extension ,,dining ,,table ,the accompanying sketch and photograph show a simple design of an extension dining table of the mission style4 ,it is very easy to construct and can be built at home by anyone who is at all handy with tools4 ,it should be made of quarter-sawed oak1 which can be secured at the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,order the following pieces3 #b top pieces1 #a by #bc by #df in4 #b extra leaves1 #a by #ab by #df in4 #b rails1 #c_/d by #c by #dd in4 #d rails1 #c_/d by #c by #bb in4 #b pieces for posts1 #c_/d by #h by #bd in4 #b pieces for posts1 #c_/d by #f by #bd in4 #d pieces for feet1 #c by #c by #ad in4 #d pieces for feet1 #c by #c by #e in4 #d pieces for feet1 #a by #d by #d in4 #d pieces moulding1 #a by #a by #aj in4 #a piece1 #a by #ab by #bg in41 birchwood4 #b brackets1 #c_/d by #c by #cb in41 birchwood4 #b pieces for slide1 #a-c_/d by #c by #cf in41 birchwood4 #d pieces for slide1 #a by #c by #cf in41 birchwood4 #ab pieces for slide1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #cf in41 birchwood4 ,the feet can be made first by squaring up one end of each and beveling the other as shown in the drawing4 ,the short pieces are fastened to the long ones by means of long screws and glue4 ,the four square pieces should be nailed to the outer ends and holes bored in them for the casters4 ,prepare the pieces for the posts1 and before nailing them together fasten the feet to them with long screws4 ,be careful to get them on square1 else the table will not set level when complete4 ,now nail and glue the pieces forming the table together and fasten the moulding at the bottom4 ,this moulding should have mitered corners as shown in the bottom view4 ,also fasten the rest piece to the top of the post1 using long screws and glue4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,dining ,table ,the slides can be made next4 ,the pieces are made and fastened together with screws as shown in the enlarged detail view4 ,this slide1 if made with care1 is a good one4 ,the center piece should be firmly fastened to the post rest with long screws4 ,the screws that fasten into the top should be inserted from below through counter-bored holes as shown4 ,miter the rails at the corners and glue them to the top4 ,blocks can be used on the inside if desired1 which will make a much stronger construction4 ,screw the two brackets to the top as shown4 ,these help to support the table when it is extended4 ,when complete the table should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper1 and all glue and rough spots removed4 ,apply stain of the desired color4 ,this can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,,an ,,oak-,,bound ,,cedar ,,chest ,this cedar chest for storing unused bedding or furs is not a difficult thing to make and when made1 the hard oak binding takes the wear and protects the softer cedar so that the chest ought to serve several generations4 ,order the stock as follows3 ,,cedar #b top and bottom pieces1 #g_/h by #af-a_/b by #cd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b sides1 #g_/h by #ah-g_/h by #cd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b ends1 #g_/h by #ah-g_/h by #ad-c_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,,oak #b overhanging top pieces1 #a by #a by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b overhanging top pieces1 #a by #a by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b lock and hinge rails1 #a by #b-a_/b by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lock and hinge rails1 #a by #b-a_/b by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b base pieces1 #a by #c-a_/d by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b base pieces1 #a by #c-a_/d by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,cedar ,chest ,specify thoroughly seasoned ,tennessee red cedar and plain sawed white oak and have the different pieces mill-planed and sandpapered as indicated in the stock-bill4 ,this bill allows #a_/b in4 extra on the length and the width of each piece for squaring up of all pieces except those marked to be surfaced on four sides4 ,begin by squaring the sides and ends to size4 ,probably the best joint for the corners is the dovetail4 ,if the worker is not experienced in woodworking1 some of the more simple joints will do4 ,it will be noted that the drawing and stock-bill call for the simplest form of joint1 that in which the sides of the chest lap over the end4 ,for the dovetail joint it will be necessary to add #b in4 more to the length of the end pieces1 making them #af-c_/d in4 each in the rough4 ,having got the sides and ends ready1 fasten them together4 ,the perspective shows the sides fastened to the ends with ornamental headed nails4 ,common nails are first used1 being equally spaced1 and the ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as to cover their heads4 ,next square the bottom and nail it to the parts just assembled4 ,square the top to the same size4 ,the base stuff is squared on one edge only4 ,the second edge--the upper one--is to be beveled or sloped #a_/h in4 to facilitate dusting and for appearance sake4 ,fit these base pieces to place1 mitering the joints4 ,before fastening the parts to the chest proper1 gauge a line #c_/d in4 from the lower edge and to a point #d-a_/b in4 from each end1 cut out to this line and shape the base as shown in the drawing4 ,use finishing nails for fastening the base to the chest4 ,the heads should be set so they may be covered later with a putty colored to match the finish4 ,in a similar manner plane up1 cut and fit the back and hinge rails4 ,these rails should be kept a scant #a_/h in4 below the top edges of the chest proper4 ,the overhang of the lid fits down over in such a way as to form a dust-proof joint between lid and chest proper4 ,the overhang of the lid of #a in4 by #a-;in4 stock may next be mitered1 fitted and nailed to the lid4 ,thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so treated and finish as follows3 ,put on all the oak pieces1 two coats of natural paste filler4 ,this is best done before they are fastened in place4 ,directions will be found on the cans in which the filler is kept4 ,the red of the cedar may be heightened by applying a mahogany stain made of ,bismark brown aniline and boiling water1 in the proportion of #c qt4 of water to #a oz4 of aniline4 ,if applied hot the stain will enter the wood better4 ,when dry1 sandpaper lightly with ,no4 #jj paper1 both this and the oak-filled pieces4 ,fasten the oak pieces in place and give the whole exterior a very thin coat of shellac4 ,after this has hardened1 apply two coats of wax4 ,wax comes in paste form and is to be applied with a cloth very sparingly4 ,allow it to stand five or ten minutes then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish4 ,the first coat is allowed to stand #bd hours before the second is applied in a similar manner4 ,another finish1 known as an egg-shell gloss shellac finish1 is obtained by omitting the wax and instead applying from two to five more coats of shellac4 ,allow each coat #bd hours in which to harden1 and rub each hardened coat to a smooth finish1 using curled hair1 or fine steel wool1 or fine oiled sandpaper1 before applying the next4 ,illustration3 ,cedar ,chest ,complete ,the metal reinforcements for the corners can be bought at a hardware store1 as can the lock1 hinges1 and handles4 ,these parts are applied in the usual manner--butt hinges being used4 ,if well made1 the chest is practically airtight4 ,the interior is all of red cedar1 while the effect of the exterior in combining the light oak and the red cedar is striking4 ,a ,,tool ,,for ,,making ,,mortises ,in the construction of mission furniture where mortise joints are mostly used1 those who cannot have access to a mortising machine will find the following method of great assistance in obtaining a true mortise1 which is necessary in work of this kind4 ,illustration3 ,boring ,holes for ,tenons ,take a block of wood1 ,a1 the exact thickness of the piece ,b to be mortised1 and with an auger bore a hole1 the same size as the width of the mortise to be made1 exactly parallel to the sides of the block4 ,this can best be done on a drill press or a wood boring machine4 ,if no machine is available1 great care should be taken in boring by hand1 to get the hole as nearly true as possible4 ,then nail a cleat1 ,c1 on the side of the block1 ,a1 and let it extend down on piece ,b4 ,use a clamp to hold the block in place while boring out the mortise4 ,by changing the position of the block and boring a number of holes1 any length of mortise can be made4 ,the holes should afterwards be squared up with a chisel4 ,a ,,dresser ,,for ,,child',s ,,playroom ,this dresser can be made of two kinds of wood as marked on the drawing or it can be made all of one kind4 ,the original dresser was made of oak and walnut and was finished natural1 the contrast between the light and dark woods adding much to the value of the piece in the eyes of the little ones4 ,have all surfaces that will show well sandpapered at the mill4 ,the following is a list of the material wanted3 #d oak posts1 #a-a_/b in4 square by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #c walnut drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #e by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #f yellow poplar drawer sides1 #c_/h by #e by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c yellow poplar backs1 #c_/h by #d-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c yellow poplar bottoms1 #c_/h by #ab by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d oak front stretchers1 #g_/h by #a-c_/d by #ag-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d oak side rails1 #g_/h by #b by #ab in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b walnut side panels1 #a_/d by #aa by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h oak drawer slides1 #g_/h by #b by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #f oak drawer guides1 #a_/b by #c_/d by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d oak back stretchers1 #g_/h by #b by #ag-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a oak top1 #e_/h by #ad by #bj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c sq4 ft4 of #c_/h in4 matched yellow pine ceiling for back4 ,,mirror ,,support #a walnut piece1 #g_/h by #a-c_/d by #bj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a walnut piece1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ah in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a oak piece1 #c_/d by #a-a_/d by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b oak pieces1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a walnut bracket piece1 #g_/h by #a-a_/d by #e in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,,mirror ,,frame ,,parts #b walnut pieces1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ab-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b walnut pieces1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b oak pieces1 #a_/d by #c_/h by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b oak pieces1 #a_/d by #c_/h by #h in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back1 #c_/af by #h by #aj in41 soft wood4 #b cleats1 #c_/h by #a-a_/d by #h in4 #a plain mirror glass1 #g-a_/b by #i-a_/b in4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,dresser ,begin by planing the four posts to length4 ,the lower ends should be slightly beveled to prevent their slivering4 ,cut the mortises for the tenons that are on the ends of the side rails4 ,these rails are to be #g_/h by #b in4 and the tenons should be #c_/h by #a-a_/d in4 wide by #c_/d in4 long4 ,the posts should be rabbeted down to their middles to a depth of #c_/h in4 so as to receive the #a_/d-;in4 end panels4 ,the end rails should be cut to length and their tenons worked after one edge of each has been rabbeted as were the posts4 ,illustration3 ,dresser ,complete ,having squared the panels to size1 put the two ends of the dresser together with glue4 ,next make the four frames which are to carry the drawers4 ,they should measure from outside to outside1 in length #ag-a_/b in42 in width1 #ab-a_/b in4 ,it is intended that the short pieces shall be tenoned into the long ones4 ,when these frames are ready1 cut out each corner as indicated in the cross section drawing4 ,reduce to size the drawer guides and fasten them in place4 ,dowel the frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated on the drawing4 ,put on the back1 nailing into frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated and fasten the top in place1 putting screws into it from the under side4 ,the mirror frame and support should next be made4 ,the drawing shows quite clearly the parts and their relation to each other4 ,all the slopes are of #de deg4 ,instead of rabbeting the mirror frame1 a #a_/d by #c_/h-;in4 fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess1 the walnut frame and oak fillet making a pretty contrast4 ,all nail holes are to be filled with putty colored to match the finish4 ,wooden pins or round-head screws are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to its support and should be placed above center an inch or so4 ,the drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner4 ,it is a good plan to make the grooves #a_/af in4 narrower than the stock is thick to insure a fit1 chamfering the under or back sides of the bottom and back if necessary4 ,make the sides of the drawers of such a length that when the drawer has been pushed in as far as it will go1 the front will be recessed about #a_/d in4 behind the front crosspieces4 ,groove the inside of the drawer front #c_/af in4 to receive the bottom4 ,the mirror should not be placed until the wood has been finished4 ,illustration3 ,,drawer ,,construction ,finish the wood natural1 apply three coats of varnish4 ,rub the first two with haircloth or curled hair and the last with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil4 ,this gives an egg-shell gloss4 ,for a dull finish1 rub the varnish after it has become bone dry with pulverized pumice stone and water1 using a piece of rubbing felt4 ,rub until the surface is smooth and even1 and clean with a wet sponge or chamois skin4 ,if a polished finish is desired1 rub first with pulverized pumice stone and water1 then with rotten stone and water4 ,finish with a mixture of oil and a little pulverized rotten stone4 ,,cutting ,,tenons ,,with ,a ,,hand-,,saw ,this home-made tool will be a great help in the construction of mission furniture4 ,with its use1 tenons may be entirely cut with a saw1 discarding the use of a chisel and mallet4 ,the device consists of a convenient length of straight board1 ,a1 ,fig4 #a1 wide enough to cover the widest piece to be tenoned4 ,a piece of board1 ,b1 is fastened to ,a with brads or small screws4 ,this board should have a thickness equal to the piece to be cut from the side of the tenon4 ,the piece ,c is fastened to ,a and ,b with small cleats at their upper ends4 ,the space between ,b and ,c should be wide enough for the blade of a saw to run through easily1 and also long enough to take in the widest part of the saw blade4 ,the tool and piece to be tenoned are placed in a vise as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the width of the piece removed for the tenon may be varied by putting in pieces of cardboard between the work1 ,e1 and the piece ,a1 ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,sawing ,tenons ,,arts ,,and ,,crafts ,,oil ,,lamp ,electricity and gas are not always accessible in suburban or country homes and the regular type of a mission lamp would be of little use4 ,the illustration shows an ordinary round wick kerosene lamp fitted out in mission style4 ,illustration3 ,artistic ,mission ,style ,oil ,lamp ,illustration3 ,bronze ,shade ,holder ,a few modifications were made in the design of an expensive lamp to simplify the construction4 ,the lamp should have a tall chimney4 ,the dimensions given in the drawings1 and the photograph1 will explain themselves4 ,many of the details can be worked up by the maker4 ,the body of the lamp is made of #a_/b-;in4 oak and is provided with openings as shown4 ,the interior receptacle is very handy for holding a match box1 smoking articles1 etc4 ,a piece of copper band1 #a in4 wide1 is fastened to the body with large upholsterers' tacks1 to give it a finished appearance4 ,the base is #g_/h in4 thick and in order to prevent tilting is provided with four square feet1 #a_/d in4 thick4 ,the top piece of the body is #a_/b-;in4 oak1 which is provided with a hole large enough to receive the bowl of the lamp4 ,if such a lamp is not at hand1 one can be purchased at a very reasonable price4 ,the shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded art glass panels4 ,the different sections of the frames are fastened together with brass screws and the glass is held in place by triangular cleats of oak4 ,be sure and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering the glass4 ,the cardboard can be used as a pattern in cutting the glass1 and the glass will then fit without recutting1 which is quite difficult4 ,the glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color to harmonize with the finished lamp4 ,the shade is supported by four brackets cast in bronze from a wood pattern 7dimensions given7 and finished by filing1 buffing and lacquering4 ,,another ,,china ,,closet ,the china closet shown in the accompanying illustration is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance4 ,it can be made of any one of the several furniture woods in common use1 but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect4 ,the stock should be ordered from the mill ready sawed to length1 squared and sanded4 ,in this way much hard labor will be saved4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #a top1 #a by #ai by #ch in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #d posts1 #c_/d by #c by #ei in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d side rails1 #c_/d by #c by #ca in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #d end uprights1 #a by #b by #dh-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d end rails1 #a by #c by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lattice rails1 #a by #b by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a top board1 #c_/d by #c by #cf in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #d side door rails1 #c_/d by #b by #dg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #f cross rails1 #c_/d by #b by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slats1 #a_/b by #c_/d by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slats1 #a_/b by #c_/d by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h slats1 #a_/b by #c_/d by #ab-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d shelves1 #e_/h by #af by #cb in41 ,s-#a-,s41 poplar4 #d cleats1 #a in4 sq4 by #ee in41 soft wood4 #d cleats1 #a in4 sq4 by #bh in41 soft wood4 #d cleats1 #a in4 sq4 by #ad in41 soft wood4 ,illustration3 ,china ,closet with ,latticework ,doors and ,sides ,illustration3 ,details of ,china ,closet ,having this material on hand1 start with the four posts1 as they are all alike4 ,clamp them together1 being careful to have them of the right length1 and the ends square4 ,trim the bottom1 as shown in the detail drawing1 and then lay out the mortises for the front and back rails4 ,these rails can now be laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises in the posts4 ,the back rails should1 in addition1 be rabbeted for the back board as shown4 ,the end rails are fastened to the posts by means of screws through #a-;in4 square cleats1 fastened on the inside of the posts as shown in the section ,a-,a4 ,in all cases the screws should be run through the cleats into the framing so the heads will not show4 ,the end rails should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass4 ,the back board should have the corners rounded as shown and be fastened to the top board with screws through from the bottom side4 ,the top board is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the same manner4 ,the doors are put together by means of tenons and mortises4 ,the frames should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass4 ,leaded glass can be used in place of this latticework1 if it is desired4 ,suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied4 ,these can be purchased at any hardware store4 ,the shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit around the cleats4 ,they rest on small blocks which are fastened to the cleats1 or if desired1 small holes can be drilled and pins used instead4 ,the back is put on in the usual manner4 ,a mirror can be put in without much trouble if it is desired4 ,when putting the frame together1 glue should be used on the joints1 as it makes them much stiffer4 ,be careful to get the frame together perfectly square1 or it will be hard to fit the doors and the glass4 ,when it is complete1 go over the whole carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots4 ,scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints1 as stain will not take when there is any glue4 ,the closet can be finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,oak ,bedstead ,complete ,,an ,,oak ,,bedstead ,the accompanying sketches show an artistic design for a mission bed1 so simple in construction and design that most any one that has a few tools and a knowledge of their use can make it4 ,it is best made of quarter-sawed oak1 as this wood is the easiest to procure and work up and looks well with any finish4 ,if the stock is ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded1 much of the hard labor will be saved4 ,the following is a list of the material needed3 #b posts1 #b-a_/b by #b-a_/b by #ej in4 #b posts1 #b-a_/b by #b-a_/b by #dd in4 #b end rails1 #a by #f by #ef in4 #b side rails1 #a by #f by #gh in4 #e end rails1 #a by #d by #ef in4 #c end rails1 #a by #b by #ef in4 #h vertical slats1 #c_/h by #f by #aa-a_/b in4 #aj vertical slats1 #c_/h by #b by #aa-a_/b in4 #b cleats1 #a by #a by #gh in4 #e slats1 #c_/d by #c by #ee-a_/b in4 #bj blocks1 #a by #a by #c in4 ,square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the mortises as per drawing4 ,to do this1 lay them side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and mark them with a try-square4 ,the tenons on the end rails are laid out in the same manner as the posts4 ,four of the end rails should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the detail drawing4 ,the tenons on the end rails are about #a in4 long1 while those on the slats can be #c_/d in4 long4 ,fit all the parts together before gluing to see that they fit square and tight4 ,after the glue has been applied clamp them together perfectly square and set them away to dry4 ,they should dry at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are removed4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,oak ,bedstead ,while the ends are drying1 the side rails can be made4 ,these have a #a-;in4 square cleat screwed to the inner side for the slats to rest upon4 ,if springs are used1 five slats will be sufficient4 ,they can be placed where the springs will rest upon them4 ,after the position of the slats has been located1 nail small blocks at their sides to hold them in place4 ,for fastening the side rails to the posts1 patent devices can be purchased at a local hardware store4 ,the posts will have to be mortised to receive these1 and care should be exercised to get them in the right place4 ,when the bed is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints1 as the finish will not take where there is any glue4 ,remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper2 then apply the stain you like best1 which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,if this bed is well made and finished1 it will be an ornament to any home4 ,,an ,,oak ,,footstool ,the footstool shown in the illustration can be made from any kind of wood1 but when it is intended to be finished in mission style1 quarter-sawed oak will produce the best effect4 ,the material needed will be as follows3 #a top1 #a by #i-a_/b by #ab in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #b legs1 #c_/d by #h by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a brace1 #c_/d by #g by #i in41 ,s-#a-,s4 ,order these pieces cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,a full-sized layout of the front view should be made to get the correct bevels for the legs and brace4 ,the design of the legs can be varied to suit the fancy of the maker4 ,for such a design as shown draw one-half of it on paper2 fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by following the lines drawn4 ,trace around this pattern on the wood1 and saw out with a compass or keyhole saw4 ,the sawed edges should be smoothed and sandpapered4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,footstool ,the perforation in the top board is made by first boring holes1 then trimming out the edges with a sharp chisel4 ,be sure to get the best side of the board up4 ,illustration3 ,footstool ,complete ,the legs are fastened to the top and to the braces with #a-c_/d-;in4 wood screws as shown in the detail drawing4 ,after the stool is assembled1 go over it carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots before applying the finish4 ,this finish can be any one of the many different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,if this stool is well made and finished1 it will be a useful and attractive article4 ,illustration3 ,table and ,seat ,decorated in ,pyro-,carving ,a ,,library ,,set ,,in ,,pyro-,,carving ,the multitude of indifferently executed small articles which followed the introduction of pyrography is beginning to disappear1 people are considering the art more seriously and applying it to more dignified uses4 ,pyro-carving is one of the new methods of decorating furniture which is both beautiful and practical1 two qualities which do not always go together4 ,the library set illustrated consists of a table1 #cj by #ej in41 with two benches1 #ad in4 wide of the same length4 ,the supports are made of selected white pine1 which must be absolutely free from pitch4 ,the pine is soft enough to work easily with the point and stands wear much better than basswood4 ,the tops and braces are made of curly fir1 all of the material must be #b-;in4 lumber1 which dresses to about an inch and a half4 ,all surfaces1 except the faces of the supports1 are given a well-rubbed coat of oil with a little burnt umber1 the stain to be applied directly to the wood without a filler4 ,on the outside of the supports the design is drawn in with pencil1 the background is then cut out smoothly with a chisel to the depth of an eighth of an inch1 leaving the decoration in relief4 ,it is then burned deeply1 the background in straight flat strokes1 the outlines having the effect of a sloping1 dark edge4 ,the shadows are burned in as deeply as possible and the shading is put in with the flat of the point4 ,a wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish is most suitable for this set4 ,illustration3 ,grille for an ,arch ,a ,,grille ,,with ,,pedestals ,,to ,,match ,the accompanying sketch shows something unique in a grille that adds to the appearance of a home furnished in mission style4 ,when it is stained and finished to match the furniture1 it gives a consummate tone that would be difficult to obtain by any other means4 ,to get the best results it should be made to blend with the furniture and the arch in which it is to fit1 in both weight and style4 ,this will depend very much upon one's preference1 and for this reason full dimensions are not given4 ,no difficulty will be experienced1 however1 by anyone handy with tools1 in making it4 ,the material should be quarter-sawed oak1 which can be secured planed and sanded at the mill4 ,for the grille order #a by #a-a_/b-;in4 and #a_/b by #a-a_/b-;in4 stock4 ,the method of making the bars is shown in the detailed sketch4 ,the two end bars should be made of solid pieces1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b in41 with two rectangular slots mortised in each to receive the supports4 ,the supports should be just the right length to go in the arch4 ,to erect1 slip the end bars on the supports1 hold the grille in place and fasten the bars to the sides of the arch with screws4 ,the size of the pedestals and the connecting pieces will depend upon the size of the arch4 ,these connecting pieces should be well mortised into the post1 and if you own your own home and intend the pedestals to become a fixture1 they should also be mortised into the sides of the arch4 ,if not1 they may be fastened to the arch with blind screws4 ,the amount of material required will depend upon the size of the arch4 ,a ,,lady',s ,,writing ,,desk ,this desk of mission style is a little more complicated than some of the other pieces of mission furniture that have been described1 but anyone who has a fair knowledge of tools will not have much trouble in constructing it in the home workshop if the plans are carefully followed4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use1 as it is easy to work and looks best when finished4 ,order the stock from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,following is a list of the stock needed3 #b front posts1 #b by #b by #cj in4 #b back posts1 #b by #b by #ej in4 #a bottom rail1 #c_/d by #c by #ca in4 #b end rails1 #c_/d by #c by #ah in4 #a stretcher1 #c_/d by #h by #cc-a_/b in4 #b end slats1 #c_/h by #h by #ae in4 #a back slat1 #c_/h by #h by #ae-a_/b in4 #b back slats1 #c_/h by #c by #ae-a_/b in4 #a front drawer rail1 #c_/d by #a-a_/d by #ca-a_/d in4 #b side drawer rails1 #c_/d by #c by #ah-a_/d in4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #f by #cj in4 #a desk lid1 #c_/d by #ah by #ca-a_/d in4 #a desk board1 #c_/d by #ai-a_/d by #ca-a_/d in4 #b end boards1 #c_/d by #ai by #ba-a_/d in4 #a top board1 #c_/d by #aj by #cd in4 #a top back board1 #c_/d by #e by #ca-a_/d in4 #a back board1 #c_/d by #cj by #bb in4 #b drawer sides1 #a_/b by #f by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s4,w4 #a drawer end1 #a_/b by #f by #bi in41 ,s4,w4 #a drawer bottom1 #a_/b by #ah by #bi in41 ,s4,w4 #b pieces for pigeon holes1 #c_/h by #g by #bc in41 ,s4,w4 #h pieces for pigeon holes1 #c_/h by #d by #f-c_/d in41 ,s4,w4 ,start with the back posts1 being sure they are square and of the right length2 place them side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower rails1 the desk rails and the top back boards1 as shown in the accompanying detail drawing4 ,lay out the front posts in the same manner4 ,cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the posts4 ,also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end slats4 ,the end rails have a mortise in them for the tenons on the ends of the foot boards4 ,clamp the ends of the desk together1 with the end rails in place2 then fit the side boards4 ,bore holes through the posts into the side boards for dowels as shown4 ,after the dowels are in place the holes can be plugged4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,writing ,desk ,cut and fit the top back board1 the bottom rail1 the back board and the stretcher4 ,cut the top and desk boards at the back corners to clear the posts4 ,the top board is to be fastened to the side boards with blind screws4 ,the back board is fastened to the posts with dowels as shown4 ,illustration3 ,desk ,complete ,when all the parts fit square and tight they can be glued together4 ,the ends of the desk should be glued up first and left to dry1 then the other parts put in place and glued4 ,when clamping the parts together see that they fit perfectly square and tight4 ,while the glue is drying the drawer can be made4 ,the front board is made of oak1 but the other parts may be made of some soft wood4 ,the side pieces are mortised and glued to the front board1 ,the end and bottom boards can be nailed together4 ,the drop lid of the desk is made as shown4 ,two or more boards may have to be glued together for the lid1 the desk bottom and the back board4 ,the lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges1 and it should be so arranged that when closed it will be even with the sides4 ,brackets or chains are fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when it is open4 ,small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side boards will prevent it from closing too far4 ,a lock1 if desired1 can be purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place4 ,suitable handles for the drawer should also be provided4 ,when the desk is complete go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots4 ,scrape all glue from about the joints1 as the finish will not take where there is any glue4 ,the pigeonholes are made from #c_/h-;in4 stock4 ,they may be tacked in place after the desk is finished4 ,the finish can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,if the desk is well made and finished1 it will have a very neat and attractive appearance4 ,a ,,telephone ,,stand ,,and ,,stool ,the stand shown in the accompanying illustration is for use with a desk telephone4 ,the stool when not in use1 slides on two runners under the stand4 ,a shelf is provided for the telephone directory1 paper1 pencil1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,stand and ,stool ,complete ,illustration3 ,details of ,stand and ,stool ,the joints may be made with dowels1 or the mortise and tenon may be used1 as desired4 ,if the latter is decided upon1 allowance must be made on the length of the rails for the tenons4 ,the list given is for the dowel-made joints4 ,the following stock list gives the amount of material needed which should be ordered planed and sanded4 ,this work can be done by hand if the builder has the time and desires to have an entire home-made article4 ,however1 the list is given for the mill-planed material4 ,,stand #d posts1 #a-a_/b in4 square by #bi in4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #e by #aa in4 #a rail1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ac in4 #a rail1 #g_/h by #e by #ac in4 #b runners1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ad in4 #a top1 #g_/h by #ah by #bj in4 #a shelf1 #g_/h by #ab-g_/h by #ac-c_/d in4 ,,stool #d posts1 #a-a_/b in4 square by #ag in4 #d rails1 #g_/h by #d by #f-a_/b in4 #d rails1 #g_/h by #b by #f-a_/b in4 #a stretcher1 #g_/h by #d by #g-a_/d in4 #a top1 #g_/h by #ab-a_/b in4 square4 ,the exact lengths for the posts are given in the list4 ,should the builder desire to square them up1 allowance must be made for this when ordering stock4 ,arrange all the pieces in the position they are to occupy in the finished stand and stool and number all the joints4 ,locate the centers and bore holes for all the dowels4 ,assemble the two sides of the table first4 ,notch the runners and fasten them to the posts with flat-head screws4 ,use hot glue on the dowel joints if possible4 ,cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and assemble the frame of the table4 ,use round-head screws through the rails to hold the shelf4 ,the top may be fastened in two ways1 with screws through cleats on the inside of the rails and under the top1 or with screws slanting through the upper part of the rails and into the top as shown4 ,the stool1 is assembled in the same manner as the stand4 ,the stand and stool should be finished to harmonize with the furniture and woodwork of the room in which they are to be used4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,dowel-,,cutting ,,tool ,secure a piece of steel about #a_/d in4 thick1 #a-c_/d in4 wide and #h in4 long4 ,drill various sized holes through the steel as shown in ,fig4 #a1 leaving the edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make them4 ,cut off a block of wood the length necessary for the dowels and split it up into pieces about the size for the particular dowel to be used4 ,lay the steel on something flat1 over a hole of some kind1 then start one of the pieces of wood in the proper size hole for the dowel and drive it through with a hammer1 as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the sharp edges on the steel will cut the dowel as smooth and round as if it were turned in a lathe4 ,illustration3 ,easy ,way to ,make ,dowels ,a ,,medicine ,,cabinet ,this cabinet is best made of quarter-sawed oak1 as this wood is the most easily procured and looks well when finished4 ,order the stock from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bh in4 #d side rails1 #c_/d by #b by #af in4 #d end rails1 #c_/d by #b by #g in4 #b door rails1 #c_/d by #b by #ae in4 #b door rails1 #c_/d by #b by #bb-c_/d in4 #a door panel1 #a_/d by #aa-a_/b by #ai-a_/d in4 #a back panel1 #a_/d by #ae-a_/b by #bc-a_/d in4 #b end panels1 #a_/d by #f-a_/b by #bc-a_/d in4 #b pieces for top and bottom1 #a_/b by #f-c_/d by #ae-c_/d in4 ,illustration3 ,medicine ,cabinet ,complete ,square the four posts and bevel the tops as shown4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,medicine ,cabinet ,cut grooves in them with a plow plane to receive the #a_/d-;in4 panels4 ,the tenons on the rails are cut #a_/d in4 wide and fit into the grooves in the posts the same as the panels4 ,the rails have grooves cut at the inside edges for the panels4 ,the front posts do not have grooves on the inside but have two mortises1 one at each end for the top and bottom rails4 ,the back has a panel fitted in the same as the ends4 ,see that the pieces fit together perfectly square and tight1 then glue them together and give it time to dry4 ,the top and bottom boards are next put in place4 ,the top is placed in the center of the top rails while the bottom is put even with the lower edge of the bottom rails1 as shown in the detail drawing4 ,the door frame is mitered at the corners and rabbeted on the inner edge to take the panel4 ,a mirror can be used in place of the panel if desired4 ,suitable hinges and a catch1 which can be purchased at a hardware store1 should be supplied for the door4 ,the shelves are of soft wood and are to be arranged to suit the maker4 ,before applying a finish1 go over the cabinet with fine sandpaper and remove all the surplus glue about the joints and the rough spots1 else the finish will not take evenly4 ,the finish can be any one of the many different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,,contents ,arm ,chair #ff ,arm ,chair1 ,curved ,back #ah ,basket1 ,waste ,paper #bg ,bedstead1 ,oak #ii ,bend ,wood1 ,how to #dj ,bookcase #gj ,buffet1 ,oak #e ,cabinet1 ,medicine #aaf ,cedar ,chest1 ,oak-,bound #gi ,chair1 ,arm #ff ,chair1 ,curved ,back ,arm #ah ,chair1 ,rocking #ad ,chair1 ,side #fb ,chest1 ,oak-,bound ,cedar #gi ,china ,closet #dg ,china ,closet1 ,another #id ,clock1 ,arts-,crafts ,mantel #eb ,clock1 ,plain ,oak ,hall #aj ,couch1 ,oak1 with ,cushions #cc ,desk1 ,lady's ,writing #ajh ,desk1 ,oak ,writing #bi ,dining ,table1 ,extension #gg ,dowel-,cutting ,tool1 ,how to ,make #aae ,dowel ,holes1 ,tool for ,marking #bc ,dresser for ,child's ,playroom #he ,electric ,shade for ,dining ,room #cg ,footstool1 ,leather-,covered #ej ,footstool1 ,oak #aja ,grille with ,pedestals to ,match #ajg ,hall ,clock1 ,plain ,oak #aj ,lamp1 ,arts and ,crafts ,oil #ia ,lamp ,stand #gc ,library ,set in ,pyro-,carving #aje ,magazine ,table #bd ,mantel ,clock1 ,arts-,crafts #eb ,medicine ,cabinet #aaf ,mortises1 ,tool for ,making #hd ,music ,stand #ee ,oak ,stain #i ,plate ,rack #ba ,pyro-,carving1 ,library ,set in #aje ,rocking ,chair #ad ,screws1 ,making ,hold in ,end ,grain of ,wood #eh ,shade1 ,electric for ,dining ,room #cg ,side ,chair #fb ,smoking ,stand #dc ,stain1 ,oak #i ,stand and ,stool1 ,telephone #aab ,stand1 ,lamp #gc ,stand1 ,music #ee ,stand1 ,smoking #dc ,stool1 ,telephone ,stand and #aab ,table1 ,extension ,dining #gg ,table--,library ,set in ,pyro-,carving #aje ,table1 ,magazine #bd ,telephone ,stand and ,stool #aab ,tenons1 ,cutting with a ,hand-,saw #ij ,tool1 ,dowel-,cutting1 ,how to ,make #aae ,tool for ,marking ,dowel ,holes #bc ,tool for ,making ,mortises #hd ,wall ,case with a ,mirror ,door #ei ,waste ,paper ,basket #bg ,wood1 ,how to ,bend #dj 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,the ,table of ,contents was added for the reader's convenience4 ,folio #aah3 perfectly was perfecly4 ,folio #d and #ha mill-planed was millplaned4 ,added captions for clarity3 ,folio #bg3 ,a ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket4 ,folio #bh3 ,,details ,,of ,,waste ,,paper ,,basket4 ,folio #eh3 ,,making ,,screws ,,hold ,,in ,,end ,,grain4