,,mission ,,furniture ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,it ,,part ,i ,,popular ,,mechanics ,,handbooks ,,chicago ,,popular ,,mechanics ,,co4 ,copyrighted1 #aiji1 by ,h4,h4 ,,windsor ,this book is one of the series of ,handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the ,popular ,mechanics ,company4 ,like ,popular ,mechanics ,magazine1 and like the other books in this series1 it is written so you can understand it4 ,the purpose of ,popular ,mechanics ,handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class1 up-to-date and accurate text-books1 suitable for home study as well as for class use1 on all mechanical subjects4 ,the text and illustrations1 in each instance1 have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts1 and revised by the editor of ,popular ,mechanics4 ,,contents ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,chair1 #e ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,lamp ,,stand1 #h ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,porch ,,chair1 #ae ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,tabouret1 #ag ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,morris ,,chair1 #bb ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,book ,,rack1 #bg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,mission ,,library1 #bi ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,candlestick1 #ce ,,another ,,style ,,of ,,mission ,,chair1 #cf ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,and ,,finish ,a ,,magazine ,,stand1 #db ,,home-,,made ,,lawn ,,swing1 #dg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,portable ,,table1 #ej ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,combination ,,billiard ,,table ,,and ,,davenport1 #ea ,,easily ,,made ,,book ,,shelves1 #ef ,a ,,blacking ,,case ,,tabouret1 #eg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,roll ,,top ,,desk1 #fb ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,roman ,,chair1 #fg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,settee1 #gj ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,pyrographer',s ,,table1 #gd ,,mission ,,stains1 #gf ,,filling ,,oak1 #gg ,,wax ,,finishing1 #gh ,,fuming ,,of ,,oak1 #gh ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,black ,,wax1 #gi ,,the #dj ,,styles ,,of ,,chairs1 #hj ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,piano ,,bench1 #hg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,mission ,,shaving ,,stand1 #hi ,a ,,mission ,,waste-,,paper ,,basket1 #ic ,a ,,cellarette ,,pedestal1 #if ,a ,,dresser1 #ajj ,a ,,mission ,,sideboard1 #ajc ,a ,,hall ,,or ,,window ,,seat1 #ajg ,a ,,mission ,,plant ,,stand1 #aji ,a ,,bedside ,,medicine ,,stand1 #aab ,a ,,mission ,,hall ,,chair1 #aae ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,suitable for ,dining ,room ,use1 #e ,details of ,chair ,construction1 #f ,the ,completed ,lamp1 #i ,construction of ,shade1 #aa ,details of ,construction of ,library ,lamp ,stand1 #ab ,details of ,home-,made ,porch ,seat1 #ad ,porch ,chair ,finished1 #af ,details of ,tabouret1 #ah ,tabouret as ,completed1 #bj ,complete ,morris ,chair ,without ,cushion1 #bc ,details of a ,morris ,chair1 #bd ,light but ,strong1 #bg ,details of ,stand1 #bh ,this ,picture is from a ,photograph of the ,mission ,table ,described in ,this ,article1 #bi ,showing ,dimensions of ,table1 #cj ,details of ,table ,construction1 #cb ,candlestick1 #ce ,details of ,candlestick1 #ce ,mission ,chair ,complete1 #cg ,details of ,mission ,chair ,construction1 #ci ,completed ,stand1 #dc ,details of the ,magazine ,stand1 #de ,the ,completed ,swing1 #dg ,details of ,seat1 #dh ,showing ,construction of ,stand1 #di ,table for ,outdoor ,use1 #ej ,by ,swinging the ,top ,back the ,table is ,transformed into the ,elegant ,davenport ,seen on the ,opposite ,page1 #eb ,the ,billiard ,table as ,converted into a ,luxurious ,davenport--,a ,child ,can ,make the ,change in a ,moment1 #ec ,details ,showing ,dimensions of ,parts1 #ed ,details of ,shoe ,rest1 #ef ,details of ,tabouret ,construction1 #eg ,the ,desk ,complete1 #eh ,details of ,tabouret ,construction1 #ei ,the ,desk ,complete1 #fa ,rolltop ,details1 #fb ,details1 #fd ,detail of ,pigeonholes1 #ff ,the ,roman ,chair1 #fg ,details of ,parts of ,chair1 #fi ,a ,complete ,two-,cushion ,settee1 #ga ,details of a ,mission ,settee1 #gb ,details of the ,cushion1 #gc ,convenient ,pyrographer's ,table1 #gd ,storage for ,apparatus1 #ge ,chairs #a1 #ha ,chairs #b1 #hc ,chairs #c1 #he ,chairs #d1 #hf ,piano ,bench1 #hg ,piano ,bench ,details1 #hh ,shaving ,stand ,details1 #ij ,shaving ,stand ,complete1 #ia ,mirror ,frame and ,standards ,details1 #ib ,waste-,paper ,basket to ,match ,library ,table1 #ic ,detail of ,waste-,paper ,basket1 #id ,plain-,oak ,cellarette ,pedestal1 #ig ,detail of ,cellarette ,pedestal1 #ii ,dresser in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak1 #aja ,detail of the ,dresser1 #ajb ,detail of the ,mission ,sideboard1 #ajd ,mission ,sideboard in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak1 #aje ,seat ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak1 #ajg ,detail of the ,hall or ,window ,seat1 #aji ,detail of the ,plant ,stand1 #aaj ,complete ,plant ,stand1 #aaa ,medicine ,stand in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak1 #aac ,detail of the ,medicine ,stand1 #aad ,detail of the ,hall ,chair1 #aaf ,complete ,hall ,chair in ,plain ,oak1 #aag ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,chair ,illustration3 ,suitable for ,dining ,room ,use ,illustration3 ,details of ,chair ,construction ,a mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture4 ,the materials can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and mortises4 ,the material list can be made up from the dimensions given in the detail drawing4 ,the front legs or posts1 as well as the back ones1 are made from #a-c_/d-;in4 square stock1 the back ones having a slope of #b in4 from the seat to the top4 ,all the slats are made from #g_/h-;in4 material and of such widths as are shown in the detail4 ,the three upright slats in the back are #c_/d-;in4 material4 ,the detail drawing shows the side and back1 the front being the same as the back from the seat down4 ,all joints are mortised in the posts1 as shown4 ,the joints1 however1 can be made with dowels if desired4 ,if making dowel joints they must be clamped very tight when glued and put together4 ,the seat can be made from one piece of #g_/h-;in4 material1 fitted with notches around the posts4 ,this is then upholstered with leather without using springs4 ,leather must be selected as to color to suit the kind of wood used in making the chair4 ,the seat can also be made with an open center for a cane bottom by making a square of four pieces of #g_/h-;in4 material about #d in4 wide4 ,these pieces are fitted neatly to the proper size and dowelled firmly together4 ,after the cane is put in the opening the cane is covered over and upholstered with leather in the same manner as with a solid bottom4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,lamp ,,stand ,,and ,,shade ,a library light stand of pleasing design and easy construction is made as follows3 ,square up a piece of white oak so that it shall have a width and thickness of #a-c_/d in4 with a length of #ac in4 ,square up two pieces of the same kind of material to the same width and thickness1 but with a length of #ab in4 each4 ,square up two pieces to a width and length of #c in4 each with a thickness of #a-a_/h in4 ,if a planing mill is near1 time and patience will be saved by ordering one piece #a-c_/d in4 square and #dj in4 long1 two pieces #a-a_/h in4 thick and #c in4 square1 all planed and sandpapered on all surfaces4 ,the long piece can then be cut at home to the lengths specified above4 ,the #ac-;in4 piece is for the upright and should have a #a_/b-;in4 hole bored the full length through the center4 ,if the bit is not long enough to reach entirely through1 bore from each end1 then use a red-hot iron to finish4 ,this hole is for the electric wire or gas pipe if gas is used4 ,the two pieces for the base are alike except the groove of one is cut from the top and of the other from the under side1 as shown4 ,shape the under sides first4 ,this can best be done by placing the two pieces in a vise1 under sides together1 and boring two holes with a #a-;in4 bit4 ,the center of each hole will be #b-a_/b in4 from either end and in the crack between the pieces4 ,the pieces can then be taken out1 lines gauged on each side of each1 and the wood between the holes removed with turning saw and scraper steel4 ,illustration3 ,the ,completed ,lamp ,the width of the grooves must be determined by laying one piece upon the other2 a try-square should be used to square the lines across the pieces2 however1 gauge for depth1 gauging both pieces from their top surfaces4 ,chisel out the grooves and round off the corners as shown in the sketch1 using a #c_/d-;in4 radius4 ,these parts may be put together and fastened to the upright by means of two long screws from the under side1 placed to either side of the #a_/b-;in4 hole4 ,this hole must be continued through the pieces forming the base4 ,the braces are easiest made by taking the two pieces which were planed to #a-a_/h in4 thick and #c in4 square and drawing a diagonal on each4 ,find the middle of this diagonal by drawing the central portion of the other diagonal2 at this point place the spur of the bit and bore a #a-;in4 hole in each block4 ,saw the two blocks apart1 sawing along a diagonal of each4 ,plane the surfaces on the saw cut smooth and sandpaper the curve made by the bit4 ,fasten the braces in place by means of roundhead blued screws4 ,to make a shade such as is shown in the illustration is rather difficult4 ,the shade is made of wood glued up and has art glass fitted in rabbets cut on the inner edges4 ,such shades can be purchased ready to attach4 ,the sketch shows one method of attaching4 ,four small pieces of strap iron are bent to the shape shown and fastened to the four sides of the upright4 ,electric globes--two1 three or four may be attached as shown4 ,illustration3 ,construction of ,shade ,the kind of wood finish for the stand will depend upon the finish on the wooden shade1 if shade is purchased4 ,brown ,flemish is obtained by first staining the wood with ,flemish water stain diluted by the addition of two parts water to one part stain4 ,when this is dry1 sandpaper the whiskers which were raised by the water and fill with a medium dark filler4 ,directions will be found on the filler cans4 ,when filler has hardened1 apply two coats of wax4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,construction of ,library ,lamp ,stand ,the metal shade as shown in the sketch is a layout for a copper or brass shade of a size suitable for this particular lamp4 ,such shades are frequently made from one piece of sheet metal and designs are pierced in them as suggested in the layout4 ,this piercing is done by driving the point of a nail through the metal from the under side before the parts are soldered or riveted together4 ,if the parts are to be riveted1 enough additional metal must be left on the last panel to allow for a lap4 ,no lap is needed when joints are soldered4 ,a better way1 and one which will permit the use of heavier metal1 is to cut each side of the shade separately and fasten them together by riveting a piece of metal over each joint4 ,the shape of this piece can be made so as to accentuate the rivet heads and thus give a pleasing effect4 ,for art-glass the metal panels are cut out1 the glass is inserted from the under side and held in place by small clips soldered to the frame of the shade4 ,pleasing effects are obtained by using one kind of metal1 as brass1 and reinforcing and riveting with another metal1 such as copper4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,home-,made ,porch ,seat ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,porch ,,chair ,the illustration shows a very comfortable and attractive porch chair that can be made with few tools and easily procured material4 ,most any kind of wood will answer1 says the ,american ,carpenter and ,builder1 but if open grained wood1 such as oak or chestnut1 is used1 the parts should be filled with a paste filler4 ,if the natural color of the wood is not desired1 the wood may first be stained1 the filler being colored somewhat darker than the stain4 ,procure enough lumber to make all the pieces shown in the detail drawing and finish to the dimensions shown1 being careful to make the corresponding pieces exactly alike in order to preserve the perfect symmetry which is necessary in work of this kind4 ,in boring the holes care must be taken to keep both edges of the holes sharp and clean4 ,the holes should each be bored until the spur shows2 the bit should then be withdrawn and the rest of the boring be done from the other side4 ,the semicircular notches are made by placing the two pieces edge to edge in the vise and placing the spur of the bit in the crack4 ,the #a-;in4 bit is used4 ,as it will be difficult to finish the boring of these blocks from the second side1 the parts remaining may be cut out with the knife after the pieces have been separated4 ,five #a_/b-;in4 dowel rods are needed4 ,it is possible to get these in one long piece if you happen to live near a mill and then all you will have to do is to saw off the desired lengths4 ,however1 if they cannot be got easily you can make your own4 ,two rods each #ah-a_/d in4 long2 two rods each #bj-a_/d in4 and one rod #bb-a_/d in4 give the exact lengths4 ,it is well to cut each piece a little longer than required so that the ends which are imperfectly formed may be cut off4 ,these rods should fit tight and may be fastened in addition with a small screw or nail from the under or back side4 ,illustration3 ,porch ,chair ,finished ,the hand rests should be nailed to the arms with small nails or brads before the arms are bolted4 ,the illustration of the assembled chair shows the relative position4 ,the bolts should be #a_/d in4 and of the following lengths3 #d bolts #b-a_/d in4 long2 #b bolts #b in4 long2 #b bolts #c in4 long4 ,washers should be placed between adjacent pieces of wood fastened together with bolts and also at both ends of the bolts4 ,this will require #bf washers in all4 ,while the size of the chair may be varied1 it will be necessary to keep the proportions if the parts are to fold properly4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,tabouret ,secure from the planing mill the following pieces and have them planed and sandpapered on two surfaces3 ,for the top1 one piece #g_/h in4 thick and #ag in4 square4 ,for the legs1 four pieces #g_/h in4 thick1 #d-c_/d in4 wide and #ah-a_/b in4 long4 ,for the lower stretchers1 two pieces #g_/h in4 thick1 #b-c_/d in4 wide and #ae-c_/d in4 long4 ,for the top stretchers1 two pieces #g_/h in4 thick1 #b-a_/d in4 wide and #ac-a_/d in4 long4 ,no stock need be ordered for the keys1 as they can be made out of the waste pieces remaining after the legs are shaped4 ,begin work on the four legs first4 ,while both sides of each leg slope1 it will be necessary to plane a joint edge on each leg from which to lay out the mortises1 grooves and to test the ends4 ,it will be necessary to have a bevel square to use in marking off the slopes and for testing them4 ,to get the setting for the bevel square1 make a full sized lay out or drawing of the necessary lines in their proper relation to one another and adjust the bevel to those lines4 ,from the joint edge lay out the mortises1 grooves and the slopes of sides and ends of the legs4 ,cut the mortises and grooves first1 then shape up the sides4 ,saw the sides accurately and quite close to the lines1 finishing with the steel cabinet scraper4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,tabouret ,next make the bottom stretchers4 ,in laying out the cross lap joint1 the working faces are both to be up when the joint is completed1 therefore lay off one groove on the face of one piece and on the side opposite the face on the other4 ,in gauging for depth1 however1 be careful to keep the gauge block against the working face of each piece4 ,in laying out the mortises for the keys1 the opening on the top surface is to be made #a_/h in4 longer than on the under surface4 ,the slope of the key will therefore be #a_/h in4 of slope to each #g_/h in4 of length4 ,the drawing shows the mortise as #g_/h in4 from the shoulders of the tenon4 ,this distance is the same as the thickness of the leg and to insure the key's pulling the shoulder up against the leg firmly1 should any of the legs happen to be a little less than #g_/h in41 it is well to make the mortise slightly nearer the shoulder than #g_/h in4 ,it is a good plan to lay out the mortise in the tenon at the same time the shoulders of the tenons are laid out4 ,otherwise the joint edge being cut off in making the tenon there is no convenient way to locate this mortise accurately4 ,lay off the top stretchers according to the dimensions shown in the drawing4 ,observe the same precautions about the cross lap joint as were given for the lower stretchers1 except that the joint edges are to be placed up in this latter case4 ,make sure the grooves are laid out in the middle before cutting4 ,as a test1 place the pieces side by side1 examine the markings1 then turn one of them end for end and again examine4 ,the grooves into which the legs pass are #a_/h in4 deep and must be very carefully cut4 ,their purpose is to give rigidity to the tabouret frame4 ,bore two holes in each stretcher for the screws that are to fasten the top in place4 ,make the keys1 scrape all the parts and sandpaper those that were not so treated at the mill4 ,use glue to fasten the tops of the legs to the top stretchers and assemble these parts4 ,the top is octagonal or eight-sided4 ,to make it1 square up a piece to #af-a_/b by #af-a_/b in4 ,measure the diagonal1 take one-half of it and measure from each corner of the board each way along the edges to locate the places at which to cut off the corners4 ,connect these points1 saw and plane the remaining four sides4 ,there is to be a #e_/h-;in4 bevel on the under side of the top4 ,scrape and sandpaper these edges and secure the top to the stretchers with screws4 ,illustration3 ,tabouret as ,completed ,much time can be saved and a better result obtained if the wood finishing is done before the parts are put together4 ,especially is this true if stain and filler are used4 ,a very pretty finish and one easily put on even after the parts are put together is obtained as follows3 ,take a barrel and stuff up the cracks or paste paper over them so as to make it as near airtight as possible4 ,in some out-of-the-way place put a dish with about #b oz4 of strong ammonia4 ,set the tabouret over this dish and quickly invert the barrel over the tabouret4 ,allow the fumes to act on the wood for at least #ae hours4 ,remove the barrel and allow the fumes to escape4 ,polish with several coats of wax such as is used upon floors4 ,directions for waxing will be found on the cans that contain the wax44 ,this produces the rich nut-brown finish so popular in ,arts and ,crafts furniture and is known as fumed oak4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,morris ,,chair ,the stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list3 #d posts #a-c_/d by #c by #bf in4 #b front and back rails #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #bd in4 #b side rails #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #bh in4 #b arm pieces #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #cg in4 #g slats #c_/h by #b by #bd in4 #b cleats #a by #a by #bb-a_/b in4 #b back stiles #a by #b-a_/b by #bd-a_/b in4 #b back rails #a by #b by #ag in4 #c back slats #c_/h by #a-a_/b by #ai in4 #a back support #c_/d by #c_/d by #bd in4 #b support rests #a by #a-a_/b by #h-a_/b in4 #b dowels #a_/b in4 diameter1 #f in4 long4 ,first make and put together the sides of the chair4 ,while the glue is setting on these parts make and assemble the back4 ,the front and back rails may next be made and placed and the cleats and bottom slats fastened4 ,with the adjustment of the back the chair is ready for the finish4 ,the posts are to be tenoned on the upper ends4 ,these tenons are to project #c_/af in4 above the arm and should be slightly beveled4 ,the lower ends of the posts1 likewise1 all other projecting ends1 should be beveled to avoid their splintering4 ,all sharp corners1 as on the arms1 should be sandpapered just enough to take their sharpness off1 so as not to injure the hand4 ,that the chair may be properly inclined1 the rear posts are cut #a in4 shorter than the forward ones4 ,to get the correct slant on the bottoms of these posts1 lay a straightedge so that its edge touches the bottom of the front post at its front surface1 but keep it #a in4 above the bottom of the rear post4 ,mark with pencil along the straightedge across both posts4 ,illustration3 ,complete ,morris ,chair ,without ,cushion ,illustration3 ,details of a ,morris ,chair ,at the rear ends of the arms are the notched pieces that allow the back to be adjusted to different angles4 ,these pieces may be fastened in place either by means of roundhead screws from above or flatheads from underneath the arms4 ,the notches are to be cut #c_/d in4 deep4 ,if more than three adjustments are wanted1 the arms must be made correspondingly longer4 ,the dimensions for the tenons on all the larger pieces will be found on the drawing4 ,for the back1 the tenons of the cross pieces1 the rails1 should be #c_/h by #a-a_/d-;in4 ,for the slats1 the easiest way is to not tenon them but to let in the whole end1 making the mortises in the rails #c_/h by #a-a_/b in4 ,this will necessitate cutting the sides of the mortises very accurately1 but this extra care will be more than compensated by not having to bother with the cutting of tenons on each end of the three back slats4 ,to finish the chair1 put on a coat of water stain1 first removing all surplus glue and thoroughly scraping and sandpapering all the parts that were not so treated at the mill4 ,the color of the stain will depend upon the finish desired1 whether golden1 mission1 etc4 ,water stains cause the grain of the wood to roughen1 so it will be necessary to resandpaper the surfaces after the stain has dried1 using fine paper4 ,next apply a coat of filler colored to match the stain4 ,directions for its application will be found upon the cans in which the filler comes4 ,after the filler has hardened put on a very thin coat of shellac4 ,what step is taken next will depend upon what kind of a surface is desired4 ,several coats of polishing wax may be put on4 ,this is easily done--directions will be found on the cans--and makes the most satisfactory finish for mission and craftsman furniture4 ,it is the easiest to apply4 ,several coats of shellac or of varnish might be put on instead of wax4 ,each coat of the shellac should be rubbed when thoroughly dried with curled hair or fine steel wool or fine oiled sandpaper4 ,rub the first coats of varnish with hair-cloth or curled hair and the last coats with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil4 ,cushions for the chair can be made at home4 ,they may be made of art leather such as ,spanish roan skin and the top and bottom parts fastened together by lacing leather thongs through holes previously punched along the edges of the parts4 ,a very pretty effect is obtained by using thongs of a different but harmonious color4 ,the manner of lacing may be any one of the various laces such as are used in lacing belts or as shoestrings4 ,these cushions may be filled with hair or cotton felt4 ,denim or burlap may also be used as a covering and are much less expensive than the leather4 ,lace one side and the two ends1 then place filling and finish lacing4 ,art leather cushions retail at from #af to #bj a pair and the denim and burlap at #f to #i4 ,the bottom cushion should be made the full size of the chair4 ,the front and back rails extend a little above the slats and thus hold it in place4 ,the back cushion will settle down a little and therefore may be made nearly the full length from the slats to the top of the back4 ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,book ,,rack ,illustration3 ,light but ,strong ,when making the book rack as shown in the accompanying photograph use quarter-sawed oak if possible1 as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains4 ,this piece of furniture is very attractive and simple to construct4 ,the upper shelf can be used for vases or a plant of some kind1 while the lower shelves afford ample room for books and magazines4 ,the slats and legs are fastened to the shelves with #b-;in4 round-headed brass screws4 ,these can be purchased from any hardware store4 ,one screw is used at each joint of a slat and shelf which calls for #cb screws in all4 ,holes should be bored into the slats and legs in which to insert the screws4 ,this will keep the wood from splitting4 ,the dimensions are given in the diagram sketch1 although these may be changed to suit the requirement of the builder4 ,if no glue is used on the joints when setting up1 the rack can easily be taken apart and put in a small bundle for moving4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,stand ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,mission ,,library ,,table ,the mission library table1 the drawings for which are here given1 has been found well proportioned and of pleasing appearance4 ,it can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use1 such as selected1 quarter-sawed white oak which will be found exceptionally pleasing in the effect produced4 ,illustration3 ,this ,picture is from a ,photograph of the ,mission ,table ,described in ,this ,article ,if a planing mill is at hand the stock can be ordered in such a way as to avoid the hard work of planing and sandpapering4 ,of course if mill-planed stock cannot be had1 the following dimensions must be enlarged slightly to allow for squaring up the rough4 ,illustration3 ,showing ,dimensions of ,table ,for the top1 order #a piece #a-a_/h in4 thick1 #cd in4 wide and #df in4 long4 ,have it ,s-#d-,s 7surface on four sides7 and squared to length4 ,also specify that it be sandpapered on the top surface1 the edges and ends4 ,for the shelf1 order #a piece #g_/h in4 thick1 #bb in4 wide and #db in4 long1 with the four sides surfaced1 squared and sandpapered the same as for the top4 ,for the side rails1 order #b pieces #g_/h in4 thick1 #f in4 wide and #cg in4 long1 ,s-#d-,s and sanded on one side4 ,for the end rails1 #b pieces #g_/h in4 thick1 #f in4 wide and #be in4 long4 ,other specifications as for the side rails4 ,for the stretchers1 into which the shelf tenons enter1 #b pieces #a-a_/h in4 thick1 #c-c_/d in4 wide and #be in4 long1 surfaced and sanded on four sides4 ,for the slats1 #aj pieces #e_/h in4 thick1 #a-a_/b in4 wide and #ag in4 long1 surfaced and sanded on four sides4 ,for the keys1 #d pieces #c_/d in4 thick1 #a-a_/d in4 wide and #b-g_/h in4 long1 ,s-#d-,s4 ,this width is a little wide2 it will allow the key to be shaped as desired4 ,the drawings obviate any necessity for going into detail in the description4 ,fig4 #a gives an assembly drawing showing the relation of the parts4 ,fig4 #b gives the detail of an end4 ,the tenons for the side rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post as are those on the end4 ,care must be taken1 however1 not to cut any mortises on the post below1 as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table4 ,a good plan is to set the posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate positions of the mortises4 ,the legs can then be laid flat and the mortises accurately marked out with a fair degree of assurance that they will not be cut where they are not wanted and that the legs shall pair properly when effort is made to assemble the parts of the table4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,table ,construction ,the table ends should be glued up first and the glue allowed to harden1 after which the tenons of the shelf may be inserted and the side rails placed4 ,there is a reason for the shape1 size and location of each tenon or mortise4 ,for illustration1 the shape of the tenon on the top rails permits the surface of the rail to extend almost flush with the surface of the post at the same time permitting the mortise in the post to be kept away from that surface4 ,again1 the shape of the ends of the slats is such that1 though they may vary slightly in length1 the fitting of the joints will not be affected4 ,care must be taken in cutting the mortises to keep their sides clean and sharp and to size4 ,in making the mortises for the keyed tenons1 the length of mortise must be slightly in excess of the width of the tenon--about #a_/h in4 of play to each side of each tenon4 ,with a shelf of the width specified for this table1 if such allowance is not made so that the tenons may move sideways1 the shrinkage would split the shelf4 ,in cutting across the ends of the shelf1 between the tenons1 leave a hole in the waste so that the turning saw or compass saw can be inserted4 ,saw within one-sixteenth of the line1 after which this margin may be removed with chisel and mallet4 ,in ,fig4 #c is shown two views of the keyed tenon and the key4 ,the mortise for the key is to be placed in the middle of the tenon4 ,it will be noted that this mortise is laid out #a-a_/af in4 from the shoulder of the tenon while the stretcher is #a-a_/h in4 thick4 ,this is to insure the key's pulling the shelf tightly against the side of the stretcher4 ,keys may be made in a variety of shapes4 ,the one shown is simple and structurally good4 ,whatever shape is used1 the important thing to keep in mind is that the size of the key and the slant of its forward surface where it passes through the tenon must be kept the same as the mortise made for it in the tenon4 ,the top is to be fastened to the rails by means either of wooden buttons1 ,fig4 #d1 or small angle irons4 ,there are a bewildering number of mission finishes upon the market4 ,a very satisfactory one is obtained by applying a coat of brown ,flemish water stain1 diluted by the addition of water in the proportion of two parts water to #a part stain4 ,when this has dried1 sand with ,no4 #jj paper1 being careful not to cut through4 ,next1 apply a coat of dark brown filler2 the directions for doing this will be found upon the can in which the filler is bought4 ,one coat usually suffices4 ,however1 if an especially smooth surface is desired1 a second coat may be applied in a similar manner4 ,after the filler has hardened1 a very thin coat of shellac is to be put on4 ,when this has dried1 it should be sanded lightly and then one or two coats of wax should be properly applied and polished4 ,directions for waxing are upon the cans in which the wax is bought4 ,a beautiful dull gloss so much sought by finishers of modern furniture will be the result of carefully following these directions4 ,,home-,,made ,,mission ,,candlestick ,there are many kinds of mission candlesticks1 but few of them carry out the mission design throughout4 ,herewith is illustrated a candlestick which may be made from the various woods that will have the style and lines of mission craft work4 ,the base is made from #a-;in4 material1 #d-a_/b in4 square4 ,two holes are bored and countersunk for screws to hold the post and handle4 ,the post is #b-a_/d in4 high1 bored in one end to fit the size of a candle4 ,the post is covered with a #c_/h-;in4 thick cap1 #b in4 square4 ,this1 also1 is bored to fit the candle4 ,the handle is #c_/h in4 thick and #c in4 long with a #c_/h-;in4 square mortise and is notched to fit the base4 ,the wood may be selected to match any other piece of furniture and finished in any of the mission stains4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,details of ,candlestick ,,another ,,style ,,of ,,mission ,,chair ,the material necessary to make a mission chair as shown in the accompanying illustration may be secured from a planing mill with all four surfaces squared and sandpapered4 ,the mill can do this work quickly and the expense will be nothing compared with the time it takes to do the work by hand4 ,the following is the stock list3 #d legs1 #b-a_/b by #b-a_/b by #cb-a_/b in4 #b bottom end rails #g_/h by #e-c_/d by #bc-a_/b in4 #b bottom side rails #g_/h by #e-c_/d by #bh-a_/b in4 #b top end rails #g_/h by #d-a_/b by #bc-a_/b in4 #a top back rail #g_/h by #d-a_/b by #bh-a_/b in4 #b cleats #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #bf-a_/b in4 #g slats #a_/b by #b by #bd in4 ,this design was purposely made simple4 ,if it is considered too severe and the worker has had some experience in woodwork1 it can easily be modified by adding vertical slats in back and sides4 ,these should be made of #a_/b-;in4 stock and their ends should be let into the rails by means of mortises4 ,either plain red oak or quarter-sawed white oak will do4 ,begin by squaring up one end of each leg1 marking and cutting them to length and planing up the second ends so that they shall be square4 ,both the top and bottom of each leg should be beveled or rounded off about #a_/d in4 so that they may not splinter or cause injury to the hand4 ,when all of the legs have been made of the same length1 set them on end in the positions they are to have relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate locations of the mortises4 ,next1 place them on the bench1 side by side1 even the ends and square sharp lines across to indicate the ends of the mortises4 ,the drawing shows the dimensions to use4 ,a sharp pencil should be used for this marking and the lines should be carried entirely across the two faces of each piece4 ,illustration3 ,mission ,chair ,complete ,set the gauge for the side of the mortise nearest the face edge4 ,with this setting1 mark all the mortises1 then set for the second side of the mortise and complete the gauging4 ,there are two ways of cutting small mortises in common use4 ,one is by using a chisel of a width just equal to that of the mortise4 ,the other is by using a smaller chisel after the mortise has first been bored with the brace and bit4 ,in the first method the cutting is begun at the middle of the mortise where a ,v-shaped opening is made the full depth of the mortise that is to be4 ,continuing from the middle1 vertical cuts are taken first toward one end and then toward the other4 ,the chips are pried out as the cutting proceeds4 ,in making the last cut this prying must be omitted1 otherwise the edge of the mortise would be ruined4 ,it will be necessary to stand so as to look along the opening in order to get the sides plumb4 ,this method of cutting1 when once the knack has been attained1 will be found much easier1 quicker and more accurate for small openings1 such as these1 than the usual method4 ,the second method1 which is the usual one1 needs no description4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,mission ,chair ,construction ,the rails should next have the tenons cut on their ends4 ,it may not be out of place to remind the amateur that the lengths of the various like pieces can best be laid off by placing them on the bench1 measuring off the proper distances on one of them and then with try-square marking across the edges of all of them at once4 ,this not only saves time in that but one set of measurements need be made1 but it insures all the pieces being similarly laid off4 ,in measuring off for the shoulders of the tenons1 begin at the middle of the length of the rail and measure half of the distance each way4 ,by doing so1 if there are any slight differences in the lengths of the pieces this difference will be divided between the two tenons and no harm will be done4 ,in gauging the tenons take the precaution to mark a working face and joint edge1 even if all the surfaces were finish-planed at the mill4 ,it is very important that all tenon gauging be done from these faces4 ,the same is true of the legs or posts1 and the slats if there are to be any4 ,to avoid confusion it is well to number each tenon by means of the chisel with a ,roman numeral and its corresponding mortise with the same4 ,this will prevent the fitting of one tenon into more than one mortise4 ,put the parts together with warm glue if it can be had1 otherwise use the prepared cold glue4 ,in cold weather the wood ought to be warmed before the glue is applied4 ,put the ends of the chair together first4 ,when the glue has set on these put the other rails in place4 ,when clamping up the second set of rails make sure the frame of the chair is square4 ,the best way to test for squareness is to measure the diagonals with a stick4 ,spring the frame until they measure alike1 using a brace to hold the frame in position until the glue can harden4 ,before staining1 scrape off any surplus glue1 for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing to remove it4 ,fasten cleats to the front and back rails with screws4 ,to these cleats fasten the slats as shown in the drawing4 ,a cushion of ,spanish leather1 such as is shown in the photograph1 can be bought at the furniture store or the upholsterer's4 ,it can be made by the amateur quite easily1 however4 ,the two parts are fastened together with leather thongs and the filling is of hair or elastic felt4 ,a cushion for the back might well be provided4 ,to finish the wood to match a brown leather proceed as follows3 ,with a cloth or brush1 stain the wood with brown ,flemish water stain diluted by the addition of four parts of water4 ,when this has dried1 sandpaper smooth1 using ,no4 #jj paper held on the tips of the fingers4 ,apply a dark brown filler4 ,when this has flatted1 i4e41 when the gloss has disappeared1 which will be in the course of ten or fifteen minutes1 wipe off clean with excelsior and then with waste or a cloth4 ,allow this to dry over night1 then apply two or three coats of wax4 ,polish each coat with a flannel cloth by briskly rubbing it4 ,a settle can be made after this design by using longer front and back rails4 ,rails #db in4 between shoulders will make a good length for a settle4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,and ,,finish ,a ,,magazine ,,stand ,for the magazine stand shown herewith there will be needed the following pieces3 #a top1 #g_/h in4 by #ae-a_/b in4 by #af-a_/b in4 #a shelf1 #g_/h in4 by #aa-a_/b in4 by #ab-a_/b in4 #a shelf1 #g_/h in4 by #ab-a_/b in4 by #ad-c_/d in4 #a shelf1 #g_/h in4 by #ac-a_/b in4 by #af-a_/b in4 #b sides1 #g_/h in4 by #ad-a_/b in4 by #cc-a_/b in4 #a brace1 #g_/h in4 by #c-a_/d in4 by #ag in4 #a brace1 #g_/h in4 by #b-a_/b in4 by #aa-a_/b in4 #f braces1 #g_/h in4 by #b in4 by #b in4 ,order these pieces mill-planed on two surfaces to the thickness specified above and also sandpapered4 ,quarter-sawed white oak makes the best appearance of all the woods that are comparatively easy to obtain4 ,plain sawed red or white oak will look well but are more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed4 ,this is quite an element in pieces as wide as these4 ,begin work on the sides first4 ,plane a joint edge on each and from this work the two ends4 ,the ends will be square to the joint edge but beveled to the working face4 ,a bevel square will be needed for testing these beveled ends4 ,to set the bevel make a drawing1 full size or nearly so1 of the front view and place the bevel on the drawing1 adjusting its sides to the angle wanted4 ,work from a center line in laying off the drawing4 ,having planed the ends1 lay off the sides4 ,this is done by measuring from the joint edge along the bottom #ad in41 from the joint edge along the top #a-a_/b in4 and from this #aa in4 ,connect the points by means of a pencil and straightedge4 ,illustration3 ,completed ,stand ,before cutting off the joint edges of the pieces measure off and square lines across to indicate the locations of the shelves4 ,put both pieces together and mark across both joint edges at once to insure getting both laid off alike4 ,the design at the bottom can be varied to suit the fancy of the worker4 ,for such a design as is shown1 draw on paper1 full size1 half of it2 fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by cutting along the line just drawn4 ,trace around this pattern on the wood1 and saw out with compass or turning saw4 ,the shelves may now be made4 ,the bevel of the ends of the shelves will be the same as for the ends of the side pieces4 ,the lengths may be obtained by measuring the drawing4 ,remember that length is always measured along the grain and that the end grain of the shelves must extend from side to side in this stand4 ,the widths may be obtained by measuring the width of the sides at the points marked out on them for the location of the shelf ends4 ,it is best not to have the shelves the full width of the sides1 since the edges of the shelves are to be faced with leather4 ,make each shelf #a_/b in4 less than the width of the side1 at the place that the shelf is to be fastened4 ,the top will be squared up in the usual manner1 #ae in4 wide by #af in4 long4 ,these parts may now be put together4 ,they may be fastened in any one of a variety of ways4 ,round-head blued screws may be placed at regular intervals through the sides4 ,finishing nails may be used and the heads set and covered with putty stained to match the wood4 ,finish nails may be placed at regular intervals and fancy headed nails used to cover the heads4 ,illustration3 ,details of the ,magazine ,stand ,the braces should be formed and fitted but not fastened until the finish has been applied4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts not already so treated4 ,probably no other finish appeals to so many people as golden oak4 ,there is no fixed standard of color for golden oak4 ,different manufacturers have set standards in their part of the country1 but the prevailing idea of golden oak is usually that of a rich reddish brown4 ,proceed as follows3 ,egg shell gloss3 #a4--,one coat of golden oak water stain1 diluted with water if a light golden is desired4 #b4--;,allow time to dry1 then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper4 ,this is to smooth the grain and to bring up the high lights by removing the stain from the wood4 ,use ,no4 #jj sandpaper and hold it on the finger tips4 #c4--;,apply a second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with water4 ,this will throw the grain into still higher relief and thus produce a still greater contrast4 ,apply this coat of stain very sparingly1 using a rag4 ,should this stain raise the grain1 again rub lightly with fine worn sandpaper1 just enough to smooth4 #d4--,when this has dried1 put on a light coat of thin shellac4 ,shellac precedes filling that it may prevent the high lights--the solid parts of the wood--from being discolored by the stain in the filler1 and thus causing a muddy effect4 ,the shellac being thin does not interfere with the filler's entering the pores of the open grain4 #e4--,sand lightly with fine sandpaper4 #f4--;,fill with paste filler colored to match the stain4 #g4--;,cover this with a coat of orange shellac4 ,this coat of shellac might be omitted1 but another coat of varnish must be added4 #h4--,sandpaper lightly4 #i4--;,apply two or three coats of varnish4 #aj4--,rub the first coats with hair cloth or curled hair and then with pulverized pumice stone1 crude oil or linseed oil4 ,affix the braces just after filling1 using brads and puttying the holes with putty colored to match the filler4 ,the shelves may be faced with thin leather harmonizing with the oak1 ornamental headed tacks being used to fasten it in place4 ,,home-,,made ,,lawn ,,swing ,illustration3 ,the ,completed ,swing ,the coming of spring and summer calls forth various kinds of porch and lawn furniture4 ,a porch or lawn swing to accommodate two or more persons is a thing desired by most people4 ,the lawn swing as shown in the picture is portable and does not need stakes to hold it to the ground4 ,while this swing is substantial and rigid it can be moved from place to place on the lawn1 or the chains can be fastened with heavy hooks to the ceiling of a porch instead of using the stand4 ,either ropes or chains may be used to hang the swing and should be of such length that the seat will be about #bj in4 from the ground or floor4 ,the drawing giving the dimensions for constructing the seat shows how the parts are put together4 ,the front and back apron pieces are mortised to receive a #a-;in4 square tenon cut on the crosspieces that support the slats4 ,each end of the apron pieces extends #d in41 and a hole is bored at ,a into which the hanging ropes or chains are fastened4 ,if ropes are used1 bore the holes to fit the rope and when the end of each rope is put through a hole it is tied in a knot to keep from slipping out4 ,chains can be fastened with eye bolts4 ,small carriage or stove bolts are used to hold the slats on the framework and cross pieces4 ,the arm rests are fastened with wood screws4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,seat ,the drawing for the stand gives all the dimensions for its construction4 ,split the upright pieces or legs with a saw cut to the length as shown4 ,a bolt should be put through each piece edgewise at the end of the saw cut1 to keep the wood from splitting any farther when the ends are spread to receive the bolts through the cross pieces at the top4 ,the upper ends of the ropes or chains are fastened close to and under the bolt holding the inside forks of the uprights4 ,this bolt can be long enough to fasten a clevis that will hang underneath for this purpose4 ,the whole swing can be painted with a forest green color which is very suitable for summer outdoor furniture4 ,illustration3 ,showing ,construction of ,stand ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,portable ,,table ,illustration3 ,table for ,outdoor ,use ,a table for outdoor use that can be taken apart1 stored or changed from place to place may be made at small expense4 ,fasten cleats with screws1 as shown in ,fig4 #a1 to the bottom of a board of suitable size4 ,the legs are built with a cross piece1 ,a1 ,fig4 #d1 at the top which fits into slot formed by the cleats1 ,,cc1 and a crosspiece1 ,b1 that has two cleats1 ,d1 making a place to receive the bottom end of the brace1 ,e1 ,fig4 #b4 ,the upper ends of the braces1 ,,ee1 fit in between two pieces1 ,f1 fastened in the middle of the board4 ,the three pins fitting loosely in ,,dd and ,f1 ,fig4 #b1 are all that holds table together4 ,the end view is shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,combination ,,billiard ,,table ,,and ,,davenport ,a small size billiard table which can be converted quickly into a davenport is made as follows3 ,secure clear1 selected plain sawed white oak in sizes as indicated by the drawing4 ,have these planed at the mill to the widths and thicknesses specified4 ,the lower part should be made first4 ,cut the four posts to length1 chamfering the ends somewhat so that they will not splinter when in use4 ,lay out and cut the mortises which are to receive the rails4 ,the lower rails are to be #a-a_/h in4 thick and the mortises are to be laid out in the legs so as to bring their outer surfaces almost flush with those of the posts4 ,the upper rails are #b-a_/d in4 wide4 ,the slats are #c_/d in4 thick4 ,tenons should be thoroughly pinned to the sides of the mortises as shown in the illustration4 ,the braces are #a-c_/d in4 thick and are fastened to place with roundhead screws and glue4 ,the seat may be made by putting in a solid bottom that shall rest upon cleats fastened to the inner surfaces of the rails4 ,the top of this bottom should rest about #c_/d in4 below the top edge of the rails4 ,a well filled leather cushion completes this part4 ,a more satisfactory result is obtained by putting in springs and upholstering the seat4 ,upon this the leather cushion can be placed4 ,illustration3 ,by ,swinging the ,top ,back the ,table is ,transformed into the ,elegant ,davenport ,seen on the ,opposite ,page ,illustration3 ,the ,billiard ,table as ,converted into a ,luxurious ,davenport--,a ,child ,can ,make the ,change in a ,moment ,the top or table is built upon and about a heavy frame of well seasoned #a-c_/d-;in4 by #e-c_/d-;in4 white pine4 ,the parts to this frame are thoroughly mortised and tenoned together4 ,middle stretchers1 lengthwise and crosswise1 give added strength and rigidity4 ,upon this frame the slate bed is leveled by planing the frame wherever necessary4 ,slats are fastened to the bed by screws1 the heads of which are countersunk so that they may be covered over even with plaster of paris4 ,illustration3 ,details ,showing ,dimensions of ,parts ,the top and side facings are built together1 the angle being reinforced with block and glue1 as shown in detail4 ,these facings1 to which the cushions are attached1 are afterward made fast to the frame by ornamental headed screws4 ,the detail and photograph show the manner of applying the under facing4 ,before attaching the top and side facings1 the bed cloth should be placed over the slate and fastened4 ,the nap of the cloth should run from the head toward the opposite end of the table4 ,draw the cloth as tight as possible1 taking care that there shall be no wrinkles4 ,the billiard cushions can be bought ready to cover4 ,the bumpers which keep the top from striking the front posts can be obtained by making proper selection from oak door bumpers carried in stock by hardware dealers4 ,the brass swing bars1 most likely1 can be obtained at the same place4 ,the upholstering on the under side of the top--the back of the davenport--is to be built upon a stout frame made of some suitable common wood1 and the whole set in the recess formed as shown in the detail drawing--the whole being fastened from the back before the slate bed is put in position4 ,effort should be made to select leather of a color that will harmonize with the wood finish which is to be applied4 ,,easily ,,made ,,book ,,shelves ,very cheap but useful and attractive book shelves are shown in the accompanying drawing4 ,the vertical strips1 ,a1 may be #c_/d in4 by #b in4 and are screwed to four shelves1 ,b1 each cut to the shape of a quarter circle4 ,the screws are all countersunk and as the heads all come on the side next to the wall1 they do not show4 ,the design might be varied somewhat to suit the fancy of the builder1 although the appearance of the shelves constructed as shown is very pleasing1 especially so if the workmanship is good and the wood carefully stained and varnished4 ,the total cost of construction was less than #ge cents4 ,illustration ,a ,,blacking ,,case ,,tabouret ,illustration ,a substantial piece of mission furniture which may be used as a tabouret or plant stand as well as a blacking case1 in which there is a receptacle for brushes1 blacking and a shoe rest1 is shown in the illustration4 ,the stock can be secured mill-planed1 sandpapered and in lengths almost ready to be assembled4 ,the stock list consists of the following pieces3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ag in4 #d side rails1 #a by #f-a_/b by #i-a_/b in4 #b top pieces1 #a by #h-a_/d by #af-a_/b in4 #a bottom1 #a_/d by #i-a_/b by #i-a_/b in4 #a cleat1 #a by #a by #ah in4 ,the posts and cleat are surfaced on four sides1 while the other pieces are surfaced on only two sides4 ,the allowance of #a_/b in4 on the side rails1 top and bottom1 is for fitting the joints4 ,be sure the surfaces of the pieces for the posts are square and the ends sawed square off1 making the posts exactly the same length when they come from the mill4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,shoe ,rest ,square up the four side rails to #f by #i in4 ,cut one end of each post tapering with a chisel2 face and sandpaper the posts and side rails before making the joints4 ,the side rails are attached to the posts with three dowels to each joint4 ,the place for each dowel is located by making a line exactly in the middle lengthwise on each end of each side rail4 ,three lines are made to intersect this middle line1 as shown in the detail4 ,drive a #a_/b-;in4 brad in each intersection allowing a small portion of each brad to project1 and cut off the heads4 ,gauge a line in the middle of each post at the top where the joints are to be made and press the end of a side rail containing the brads against the post4 ,this will mark the places to bore holes for the dowels4 ,pull out the brads and bore holes for the dowel pins4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,tabouret ,construction ,when gluing up the side rails and posts1 first put on a coat of glue on the ends of the side rails and let it dry4 ,this will fill up the pores in the end grain of the wood which will make a strong joint when finally glued together4 ,the dowel pins are made #c_/h in4 square with a slight taper at the ends4 ,these can be easily forced into the holes1 when the ends of the side rails are coated with glue and ready to be put together1 by clamps pressing on the outside of the posts4 ,the bottom is held in position with narrow strips tacked on the lower edge of the side rails4 ,square up the top pieces to #h by #af in4 and fasten one piece to the top with cleats and screws as shown in the drawing4 ,the other piece is hinged to the first one with two #b-;in4 hinges4 ,the shoe rest can be made from a block of wood and covered with sheet tin1 copper or brass1 or a cast-iron rest can be purchased4 ,the rest is fastened to the under side of the hinged top4 ,stain the wood any dark color and apply a very thin coat of shellac4 ,put on wax and you will have a finish that can be renewed at any time by wiping with a little turpentine and rewaxing4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,roll ,,top ,,desk ,illustration3 ,the ,desk ,complete ,the materials for this roll top desk can be purchased from a mill dressed and sandpapered so the hardest part of the work will be finished4 ,the wood must be selected to suit the builder and to match other articles of furniture4 ,the following list of materials will be required3 #fh lineal ft4 of #a by #c in4 hardwood4 #fe lineal ft4 of #a by #b in4 hardwood4 #c lineal ft4 of #a_/d by #bd in4 hardwood4 #de lineal ft4 of #a_/d by #aj-a_/b in4 hardwood4 #cf lineal ft4 of #a by #ab in4 hardwood4 #ce lineal ft4 of #c_/h by #i in4 soft wood4 #ajj sq4 ft4 of #a_/b by #ab in4 soft wood4 #a piece #cd in4 wide and #ed in4 long hardwood4 #cj pieces #a by #a in4 #dh in4 long4 ,illustration ,the upper and lower back panels are constructed very similar1 the only difference being in the height4 ,the inside edge of the #c-;in4 pieces is plowed with a #a_/d-;in4 plow #c_/h in4 deep exactly in the center and also both edges of each #b-;in4 piece4 ,the #af-;in4 pieces in the upper back panel and the #bd-;in4 pieces in the lower back panel must be cut #a_/b in4 longer and a #a_/d-;in4 tongue made on each end to fit into the plowed groove and form a mortise joint4 ,the upper back panel is filled in with four boards #i-a_/b in4 wide and #af-a_/b in4 long1 while the four boards in the lower back panel are #i-a_/b in4 wide and #bd-a_/b in4 long cut from the #a_/d-;in4 hard wood4 ,when the grooves are cut properly1 the joints made perfect and the boards fitted to the right size1 these two panels can be assembled and pressed together in cabinet clamps4 ,this will make the outside dimensions as given in the drawing4 ,the end panels are made very similar to the lower back panel1 the only difference being in the width of the filling boards1 which are #aj-a_/b in4 for the outside end panels and #aj in4 for the inside panels4 ,one end panel and one inside panel make the sides of one pedestal4 ,as the end panels are #a in4 wider than the inside panels they overlap the back panel and cover up the rough ends of the boards4 ,a #a-;in4 piece #b in4 wide is fastened at the top and bottom of each end and inside panels as shown by the dotted lines4 ,the lower back panel is fastened on by turning screws through the back and into the ends of these pieces4 ,the bottom pieces have #b-;in4 notches cut out1 as shown1 into which to fit two crosspieces across the bottom of the pedestal for holding the casters4 ,the top end panels are made as shown in the drawing1 the inside edge of the pieces being plowed out1 making a groove the same size as in the other pieces of the panels4 ,the panel board is cut to the proper shape from the #a_/d-;by #bd-;in4 material4 ,the length given in the material list will be sufficient if the pointed ends are allowed to pass each other when laying out the design4 ,illustration ,instead of cutting a groove for the roll top curtain1 one is made by fastening a #a_/b-;by #c_/d-;in4 strip #g_/h in4 down from the edge and on the inside of the panel4 ,a thin #a_/d-;by #a-c_/d-;in4 strip is bent to form the shape of the edge and fastened with round-headed brass screws4 ,a #a-;in4 piece is fastened at the back and a groove cut into it as shown by the dotted line into which to slide a #a_/d-;in4 back board4 ,the top is a #ab-;in4 board #ed in4 long4 ,as both pedestals are made alike1 the detail of only one is shown4 ,the partitions upon which the drawers slide are made up from #a-;in4 square material with a #b-;in4 end fitted as shown4 ,dimensions are given for the divisions of each drawer1 but these can be changed to suit the builder4 ,the detail of one drawer is shown1 giving the length and width1 the height being that of the top drawer4 ,the roll top curtain is made up from #a-;in4 pieces #c_/d in4 thick and #dh in4 long1 cut in an oval shape on the outside1 tacked and glued to a piece of strong canvas on the inside4 ,the end piece is #b in4 wide1 into which two lift holes or grooves are cut and a lock attached in the middle of the edge4 ,a drawer lock can be made as shown and attached to the back panel and operated by the back end of the roll top curtain when it is opened and closed4 ,the top board1 which is #cd by #ed in41 can be fitted with end pieces as shown or left in one piece with the edges made rounding4 ,at this point in the construction of the parts they can be put together4 ,the sides of each pedestal are fastened together by screws passed through the #a-;in4 square pieces forming the partition and into the sides of the panels4 ,when each pedestal is put together the lower back panel is fastened to them with screws turned into the pieces provided as stated in making the end panels4 ,the top board is now adjusted with equal edges projecting and fastened in position with finishing nails4 ,as the top panels cover directly over where the nails are driven1 the heads will not show4 ,the upper back panel is fastened to the curved ends and the whole top held to the top board with cast corner brackets that can be purchased at any hardware store4 ,the top should not be drawn together too close before the #a_/d-;in4 back board is put in the grooves and the roll top curtain placed in position4 ,illustration ,the detail showing the pigeon holes gives sizes for #cj openings #c by #d in41 two book stalls at the ends1 #c in4 wide1 and two small drawers4 ,this frame is built up as shown from the #c_/h-;in4 soft wood1 and fastened in the back part of the top with small brads4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,roman ,,chair ,in making this roman chair1 as well as other articles of mission furniture1 the materials can be ordered from the mill with much of the hard work completed4 ,order the stock to make this chair as follows3 #d posts1 #a-g_/h by #a-g_/h by #cj in4 #b top rails1 #g_/h by #b-c_/d by #bj in4 #b bottom rails1 #g_/h by #b-a_/d by #bj in4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #d by #af in4 #b side rails1 #g_/h by #d by #bh in4 #a stretcher1 #g_/h by #c by #cj in4 ,illustration3 ,the ,roman ,chair ,have all these pieces mill planed on the four sides straight and square1 also have them sandpapered on the four sides of each4 ,plain sawed white or red oak finishes nicely and is easily obtained4 ,the sizes are specified exact as to thickness and width1 but the lengths are longer than is needed4 ,this is to allow for cutting and fitting4 ,begin by squaring one end of each post2 measure the length #bh in4 and1 placing all of them side by side1 square a line across the four1 saw1 then plane these ends square4 ,the top and bottom side rails are treated in a similar manner1 their length being #ai-a_/h in4 each4 ,these pieces extend right through the posts projecting #e_/h in4 beyond the surface4 ,the mortises in the posts must be cut smoothly and of exact size4 ,wood pins fasten these rails and posts together4 ,the other rails have tenons #a_/b by #c in4 shouldered on the two edges and one side4 ,the mortise in the post is placed central4 ,on the ends of the chair the shouldered side is turned in 7see photograph71 while on the front and back they are turned out4 ,miter the ends of these tenons4 ,these tenons are to be glued and clamped--the ends of the chair being put together first4 ,when this is dry the sides are clamped4 ,the stretcher should have its ends shouldered on the two edges so as to make a #b-a_/b-;in4 tenon4 ,allow the tenons to extend #a-a_/h in4 beyond the cross rail and cut mortises in these tenons for the keys4 ,all projecting tenons1 as well as the tops and bottoms of the posts1 should be chamfered about #a_/h in4 ,for the seat1 screw cleats to the insides of the rails and place a platform of thin boards so that its top surface is #a_/b in4 below the top of the rails4 ,a cushion can be made1 as shown in the photograph1 by lacing with leather thongs two pieces of ,spanish leather cut to proper length and width4 ,when nearly laced fill with any of the common upholsterer's fillings4 ,illustration3 ,details of ,parts of ,chair ,for a brown stain1 dissolve by boiling in #d oz4 of water1 extract of logwood the size of a walnut4 ,apply hot and repeat until the desired color is obtained4 ,stains can be bought ready prepared1 however1 and are quite satisfactory4 ,finish by applying several coats of wax4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,settee ,this handsome piece of mission furniture is designed to be made up in three different pieces as desired1 the only changes necessary being in the length of the one front and the two back rails4 ,the settee can be made into a three-cushion length by adding the length of another cushion to the dimensions of the one front and two back rails4 ,a companion piece chair can be made by using suitable length rails to admit only one cushion4 ,the following stock list of materials ordered mill-planed and sandpapered will be sufficient to make up the settee as illustrated4 ,oak is the most suitable wood which can be finished in either mission or a dark golden oak4 #c rails #a by #d by #eb-a_/d in4 #d end rails #a by #d by #bd-a_/d in4 #d posts #b-a_/d in4 square by #cd-a_/b in4 #ac slats #a_/b by #e by #ba-a_/d in4 #b cleats #a in4 square by #ea in4 ,all the rails are mortised into the posts for a depth of #e_/h in41 also the slats are mortised #e_/h in4 into the rails4 ,the material list gives the exact dimensions for the rails and slats as they will not need to be squared for entering the mortises1 provided you are careful to get all lengths cut to dimensions4 ,when cutting the mortises take care to get them square and clean4 ,the posts have #a_/b in4 extra added for squaring up and cutting the corners sloping on the top ends4 ,the joints are all put together with glue4 ,nails can be driven into the posts intersecting the tenons of the rails on the inside1 as they will not show and will help to make the settee more solid4 ,illustration3 ,a ,complete ,two-,cushion ,settee ,illustration3 ,details of a ,mission ,settee ,the cushions can be made with or without springs as desired4 ,if made without springs1 #ae slats must be provided in the material list #a_/b in4 thick1 #b in4 wide and #bd in4 long to be placed on the cleats fastened to the inside of each bottom rail4 ,the two cleats are fastened one on each inside of the front and back rails with screws4 ,the location as to height of these cleats will depend upon the kind of cushions used4 ,the parts necessary to make the cushions with springs are as follows3 #d pieces #a by #b-a_/b by #bf in4 #h pieces #a by #b-a_/b by #bd in4 #d pieces #a by #b-a_/b by #bb in4 #cb #h-;in4 springs4 #b pieces leather about #bi by #ca in4 ,illustration3 ,details of the ,cushion ,an open box is made from two #bf-;in4 and two #bb-;in4 pieces1 and across the bottom are mortised and set in four #bd-;in4 pieces to form slats on which to set the springs4 ,the tops of the springs are tied or anchored with stout cords running in both directions and fastened to the inside of the pieces forming the open box4 ,these should be tied in such manner as to hold each spring so it cannot slip over and come in contact with another spring4 ,roan or pebbled leather are very popular for cushions for this style of furniture4 ,the leather is drawn over the springs and tacked to the outside of the open box frame4 ,when complete the cushions are set in loose on the cleats1 which should1 in this case1 be placed about #a in4 from the top of the rails4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,pyrographer',s ,,table ,illustration3 ,convenient ,pyrographer's ,table ,any pyrographer will appreciate the construction of the table and cabinet as illustrated4 ,anyone doing burnt wood work will know the annoyance of building up a steady support for the arm to the level of the article on which the work is to be done4 ,the size of this table may be made to suit the surroundings and the space of the builder4 ,figure #a shows the table with a slot cut in the side support in which to place the thumb screw of the bracket as shown on top of the table4 ,it will be noticed1 ,fig4 #b1 that while both drawer and cabinet are available for storing the apparatus1 they are not in the way of the operator while sitting at his work2 the drawer overhangs the knees and the cabinet is far enough back not to interfere with sitting up close to the work4 ,the bracket shelf slides in the slot at the side of the table1 and is fastened to any height by the thumb screw ,there is also a smaller slide bracket on the shelf to clamp irregular objects to the side of the table4 ,the thumb screws1 hinges and drawer pulls can be purchased from any hardware store4 ,when the table is not in use for pyrography it can be used for a writing table or a round top provided and attached on which to play games4 ,when used for this purpose the bracket1 as well as the pyrographic outfit1 is stowed away in the cabinet as shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,storage for ,apparatus ,,mission ,,stains ,what is mission oak stain8 ,there are many on the market1 with hardly two alike in tone4 ,the true mission oak stain may be said to show a dull gray1 the flakes showing a reddish tint1 while the grain of the wood will be almost a dead black4 ,to produce such a stain take #a lb4 of drop black in oil and #a_/b oz1 of rose pink in oil1 adding a gill of best japan drier1 thinning with three half-pints of turpentine4 ,this will make about #a qt4 of stain4 ,use these proportions for a larger quantity of stain4 ,strain it through cheese cloth4 ,japan colors will give a quicker drying stain than that made with oil colors1 and in this case omit the japan and add a little varnish to bind it4 ,one of the most popular of all the fancy oaks has been that known as ,flemish1 and this in spite of its very somber color1 says ,wood ,craft4 ,there are several ways of producing ,flemish finish2 you can fill the wood with a paste filler strained with raw umber1 and when dry apply a stain of transparent flat raw umber1 and for the darker shades of finish use drop black with the umber4 ,varnish and rub down4 ,according to a foreign technical journal1 ,french workmen mahoganize various kinds of woods by the following method3 ,the surface of the wood to be stained is made perfectly smooth4 ,then it is given a coating of dilute nitric acid which is rubbed well into the wood fiber4 ,then it is stained with a mixture made by dissolving #a-a_/b oz4 of dragon's blood in a pint of alcohol1 this solution being filtered1 and then there is added to it one-third of its weight of sodium carbonate4 ,apply this mixture with a brush1 and repeat the coats at intervals until the surface has the appearance of polished mahogany4 ,in case the luster should fail it may be restored by rubbing with a little raw linseed oil4 ,the description of the process is meager1 and hence he who would try it will have to experiment a little4 ,a good cheap mission effect for oak is to mix together equal parts of boiled linseed oil and good asphaltum varnish1 and apply this to the wood with a brush2 in a minute or so you may rub off surplus with a rag1 and when dry give a coat of varnish4 ,a gallon of this stain will cover about #fjj sq4 ft4 ,,filling ,,oak ,a very good hardwood filler for oak1 either for a natural or golden effect1 may be made from two parts of turpentine and one part of raw linseed oil1 with a small amount of good japan to dry in the usual time4 ,to this liquid add bolted gilder's whiting to form a suitable paste1 it may be made thin enough for use1 if to be used at once1 or into a stiff paste for future use1 when it can be thinned down for use1 says ,woodworkers' ,review4 ,after applying a coat of filler1 let stand until it turns gray1 which requires about #bj minutes1 depending upon the amount of japan in the filler1 when it should be rubbed off with cotton waste or whatever you use for the purpose4 ,a filler must be rubbed well into the wood1 the surplus only being removed4 ,the application of a coat of burnt umber stain to the wood before filling is in order1 which will darken the wood to the proper depth if you rub off the surplus1 showing the grain and giving a golden oak effect4 ,the filling should stand at least a day and night before applying shellac and varnish4 ,,wax ,,finishing ,in wax-finishing hardwoods1 use a paste filler and shellac varnish to get a good surface4 ,of course1 the wax may also be rubbed into the unfilled wood but that gives you quite a different effect from the regular wax polish1 says a correspondent of ,wood ,craft4 ,with soft woods you first apply a stain1 then apply a liquid filler or shellac1 according to the quality of work to be done4 ,the former for the cheaper job4 ,the usual proportion of wax and turpentine is two parts of the former to one part of the latter1 melting the wax first1 then adding the spirits of turpentine4 ,for reviving or polishing furniture you can add three or four times as much turpentine as wax1 all these proportions to be by weight4 ,to produce the desired egg-shell gloss1 rub vigorously with a brush of stiff bristles or woolen rag4 ,,the ,,fuming ,,of ,,oak ,darkened oak always has a better appearance when fumed with ammonia4 ,this process is rather a difficult one1 as it requires an airtight case1 but the description herewith given may be entered into with as large a case as the builder cares to construct4 ,oak articles can be treated in a case made from a tin biscuit box1 or any other metal receptacle of good proportions1 provided it is airtight4 ,the oak to be fumed is arranged in the box so the fumes will entirely surround the piece2 the article may be propped up with small sticks1 or suspended by a string4 ,the chief point is to see that no part of the wood is covered up and that all surfaces are exposed to the fumes4 ,a saucer of ammonia is placed in the bottom of the box1 the lid or cover closed1 and all joints sealed up by pasting heavy brown paper over them4 ,any leakage will be detected if the nose is placed near the tin and farther application of the paper will stop the holes4 ,a hole may be cut in the cover and a piece of glass fitted in1 taking care to have all the edges closed4 ,the process may be watched through the glass and the article removed when the oak is fumed to the desired shade4 ,wood stained in this manner should not be ,french polished or varnished1 but waxed4 ,the process of waxing is simple3 ,cut some bees-wax into fine shreds and place them in a small pot or jar4 ,pour in a little turpentine1 and set aside for half a day1 giving it an occasional stir4 ,the wax must be thoroughly dissolved and then more turpentine added until the preparation has the consistency of a thick cream4 ,this can be applied to the wood with a rag and afterward brushed up with a stiff brush4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,black ,,wax ,when putting a wax finish on oak or any open-grained wood1 the wax will often show white streaks in the pores of the wood4 ,these streaks cannot be removed by rubbing or brushing4 ,prepared black wax can be purchased1 but if you do not have any on hand1 ordinary floor wax can be colored black4 ,melt the floor wax in a can placed in a bucket of hot water4 ,when the wax has become liquid mix thoroughly into it a little drop black or lampblack4 ,allow the wax to cool and harden4 ,this wax will not streak1 but will give a smooth1 glossy finish4 ,,the #dj ,,styles ,,of ,,chairs ,there are #dj distinct styles of chairs embracing the period from #cjjj ,b4,c4 to #aijj ,a4,d4--nearly #g1jjj years4 ,of all the millions of chairs made during the centuries1 each one can be classified under one or more of the #dj general styles shown in the chart4 ,this chart was compiled by the editor of ,decorative ,furniture4 ,the ,colonial does not appear on the chart because it classifies under the ,jacobean and other styles4 ,a condensed key to the chart follows3 ,egyptian4--#cjjj ,b4,c4 to #ejj ,b4,c4 ,seems to have been derived largely from the ,early ,asian4 ,it influenced ,assyrian and ,greek decorations1 and was used as a motif in some ,french ,empire decoration4 ,not used in its entirety except for lodge rooms1 etc4 ,grecian4--#gjj ,b4,c4 to #bjj ,b4,c4 ,influenced by ,egyptian and ,assyrian styles4 ,it had a progressive growth through the ,doric1 ,ionic and ,corinthian periods4 ,it influenced the ,roman style and the ,pompeian1 and all the ,renaissance styles1 and all styles following the ,renaissance1 and is still the most important factor in decorations today4 ,roman4--#gej ,b4,c4 to #dej ,a4,d4 ,rome took her art entirely from ,greece1 and the ,roman is purely a ,greek development4 ,the ,roman style revived in the ,renaissance1 and in this way is still a prominent factor in modern decoration4 ,pompeian4--#ajj ,b4,c4 to #gi ,a4,d4 ,sometimes called the ,grecian-,roman style1 which well describes its components4 ,the style we know as ,greek was the ,greek as used in public structures4 ,the ,pompeian is our best idea of ,greek domestic decoration4 ,pompeii was long buried1 but when rediscovered it promptly influenced all ,european styles1 including ,louis ,,xvi1 and the various ,georgian styles4 ,byzantine4--#cjj ,a4,d4 to #adej ,a4,d4 ,the ,eastern ,roman style1 originating in the removal of the capital of the ,roman ,empire to ,constantinople 7then called ,byzantium74 ,it is a combination of ,persian and ,roman4 ,it influenced the various ,moorish1 ,sacracenic and other ,mohammedan styles4 ,gothic4--#aajj to #aeej4 ,it had nothing to do with the ,goths1 but was a local ,european outgrowth of the ,romanesque4 ,it spread all over ,europe1 and reached its climax of development about #aeej4 ,it was on the ,gothic construction that the ,northern ,european and ,english ,renaissance styles were grafted to form such styles as the ,elizabethan1 etc4 ,illustration ,moorish4--#gjj to #afjj4 ,the various ,mohammedan styles can all be traced to the ancient ,persian through the ,byzantine4 ,the ,moorish or ,moresque was the form taken by the ,mohammedans in ,spain4 ,indian4--#bjjj ,b4,c4 to #aijf ,a4,d4 ,the ,east ,indian style is almost composite1 as expected of one with a growth of nearly #d1jjj years4 ,it has been influenced repeatedly by outside forces and various religious invasions1 and has1 in turn1 influenced other far ,eastern styles4 ,chinese4--#cejj ,b4,c4 to #aijf ,a4,d4 ,another of the ancient styles4 ,it had a continuous growth up to #bcj ,b4,c41 since when it has not changed much4 ,it has influenced ,western styles1 as in the ,chippendale1 ,queen ,anne1 etc4 ,japanese4--#abjj ,b4,c4 to #aijf ,a4,d4 ,a style probably springing originally from ,china1 but now absolutely distinct4 ,it has influenced recent art in ,europe and ,america1 especially the ,new ,art styles4 ,italian ,gothic4--#aajj to #aejj4 ,the ,italian ,gothic differs from the ,european and ,english ,gothic in clinging more closely to the ,romanesque-,byzantine originals4 ,tudor4--#adhe to #aeeh4 ,the earliest entry of the ,renaissance into ,england4 ,an application of ,renaissance to the ,gothic foundations4 ,its growth was into the ,elizabethan4 ,italian ,renaissance1 ,fifteenth ,century4--#adjj to #aejj4 ,the birth century of the ,renaissance4 ,a seeking for revival of the old ,roman and ,greek decorative and constructive forms4 ,italian ,renaissance1 ,sixteenth ,century4--#aejj to #afjj4 ,a period of greater elaboration of detail and more freedom from actual ,greek and ,roman models4 ,italian ,renaissance1 ,seventeenth ,century4--#afjj to #agjj4 ,the period of great elaboration and beginning of reckless ornamentation4 ,spanish ,renaissance4--#aejj to #agjj4 ,a variation of the ,renaissance spirit caused by the combination of three distinct styles--the ,renaissance as known in ,italy1 the ,gothic and the ,moorish4 ,in furniture the ,spanish ,renaissance is almost identical with the ,flemish1 which it influenced4 ,dutch ,renaissance4--#aejj to #agjj4 ,a style influenced alternately by the ,french and the ,spanish4 ,this style and the ,flemish had a strong influence on the ,english ,william and ,mary and ,queen ,anne styles1 and especially on the ,jacobean4 ,german ,renaissance4--#aeej to #agjj4 ,a style introduced by ,germans who had gone to ,italy to study4 ,it was a heavy treatment of the ,renaissance spirit1 and merged into the ,german ,baroque about #agjj4 ,francis ,i4--#aeae to #aedi4 ,the introductory period when the ,italian ,renaissance found foothold in ,france4 ,it is almost purely ,italian1 and was the forerunner of the ,henri ,,ii4 ,henri ,,ii4--#aedi to #afaj4 ,in this the ,french ,renaissance became differentiated from the ,italian1 assuming traits that were specifically ,french and that were emphasized in the next period4 ,louis ,,xiii4--#afaf to #afdc4 ,a typically ,french style1 in which but few traces of its derivation from the ,italian remained4 ,it was followed by the ,louis ,,xiv4 ,elizabethan4--#aeeh to #afjc4 ,a compound style containing traces of the ,gothic1 much of the ,tudor1 some ,dutch1 ,flemish and a little ,italian4 ,especially noted for its fine wood carving4 ,jacobean4--#afjc to #afhi4 ,the ,english period immediately following the ,elizabethan1 and in most respects quite similar4 ,the ,dutch influence was1 however1 more prominent4 ,the ,cromwellian1 which is included in this period1 was identical with it4 ,william and ,mary4--#afhi to #agjb4 ,more ,dutch influences4 ,all furniture lighter and better suited to domestic purposes4 ,illustration ,queen ,anne4--#agjb to #agad4 ,increasing ,dutch influences4 ,jacobean influence finally discarded4 ,chinese influence largely present4 ,louis ,,xiv4--#afdc to #agae4 ,the greatest ,french style4 ,an entirely ,french creation1 marked by elegance and dignity4 ,toward the end of the period it softened into the early ,rococo4 ,georgian4--#agad to #ahbj4 ,a direct outgrowth of the ,queen ,anne1 tempered by the prevailing ,french styles4 ,it includes ,chippendale1 ,hepplewhite and ,sheraton1 but these three great cabinetmakers were sufficiently distinct from the average ,georgian to be worthy separate classification4 ,chippendale4--#aged to #ahjj4 ,the greatest ,english cabinet style4 ,based on the ,queen ,anne1 but drawing largely from the ,rococo1 ,chinese and ,gothic1 he produced three distinct types1 viz43 ,french ,chippendale1 ,chinese ,chippendale and ,gothic ,chippendale4 ,the last is a negligible quantity4 ,louis ,,xv4--#agae to #aggd4 ,the ,rococo period4 ,the result of the efforts of ,french designers to enliven the ,louis ,,xiv1 and to evolve a new style out of one that had reached its logical climax4 ,hepplewhite4--#agge to #ahjj4 ,succeeded ,chippendale as the popular ,english cabinetmaker4 ,by many he is considered his superior4 ,his work is notable for a charming delicacy of line and design4 ,louis ,,xvi4--#aggd to #agic4 ,the ,french style based on a revival of ,greek forms1 and influenced by the discovery of the ruins of ,pompeii4 ,sheraton4--#agge to #ahjj4 ,a fellow cabinetmaker1 working at same time as ,hepplewhite4 ,one of the ,colonial styles 7,georgian74 ,r4 ,j4 ,adam4--#agfb to #ahjj4 ,fathers of an ,english classic revival4 ,much like the ,french ,louis ,,xvi and ,empire styles in many respects4 ,empire4--#ahjd to #ahad4 ,the style created during the ,empire of ,napoleon ,i4 ,derived from classic ,roman suggestions1 with some ,greek and ,egyptian influences4 ,new ,arts4--#aijj to date4 ,these are various worthy attempts by the designers of various nations to create a new style4 ,some of the results are good1 and they are apt to be like the little girl who had a little curl that hung in the middle of her forehead1 in that when they are good they are very1 very good1 but when they are bad they are horrid4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,piano ,,bench ,illustration ,all the material used in the making of this piano bench is #a in4 thick1 excepting the two rails1 which are #g_/h in4 thick4 ,the bench can be made from any of the furniture woods1 but the case may demand one made from mahogany4 ,if so1 this wood can be purchased from a piano factory4 ,the following stock list of materials may be ordered from a mill1 planed and sandpapered3 #a top1 #a by #af by #cf-a_/b in4 #b ends1 #a by #ad by #ah in4 #a stretcher1 #a by #d by #ca-a_/b in4 #b side rails1 #g_/h by #d by #bi-a_/b in4 #b keys1 #a by #a by #c-a_/b in4 #f cleats1 #a by #a by #d in4 ,the dimensions given1 with the exception of the keys and cleats1 are #a_/b in4 longer than necessary for squaring up the ends4 ,the two rails are cut slanting from a point #a-a_/b in4 from each end to the center1 making them only #c in4 wide in the middle4 ,the rails are let into the edges of the ends so the outside of the rails and end boards will be flush4 ,the joints are put together with glue and screws4 ,the cleats are fastened with screws to the inside of the rails and to the top4 ,the stretcher has a tenon cut on each end which fits into a mortise cut in each end4 ,the tenons will have sufficient length to cut the small mortise for the key4 ,illustration ,the kind of wood used will determine the color of the stain for the finish4 ,this also depends on matching other pieces of furniture4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,mission ,,shaving ,,stand ,this attractive and useful piece of mission furniture will be appreciated by the person that does his own shaving4 ,the shaving stand can be made at home by a handy man in his spare time as the stock can be ordered from a mill ready for making the joints and attaching the few pieces of hardware4 ,the following is a stock list of materials3 #d posts #a-a_/b in4 square by #ej-a_/b in4 #d slats #g_/h by #a by #cb-a_/b in4 #b cross rails #a by #a-a_/b by #ae in4 #b end rails #a by #a-a_/b by #ac in4 #a top #g_/h by #af-a_/b by #ai-a_/b in4 #a bottom #g_/h by #ae by #ag in4 #b ends #g_/h by #ab-a_/b in4 square4 #a back #g_/h by #ab-a_/b by #ad-a_/b in4 #a door #g_/h by #f-a_/b by #ab-a_/b in4 #b drawer ends #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #g-a_/b in4 #a partition #g_/h by #ab by #ad in4 #a partition #g_/h by #g by #ad in4 #g pieces of soft wood #a_/b by #g-a_/b by #ab in4 #b posts #a in4 square by #aj-a_/b in4 #a bottom piece #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ah-a_/b in4 #d mirror frame pieces #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ad-a_/b in4 #b sticks for pins4 #b hinges #a lock #b drawer pulls #a beveled glass mirror #aa-a_/b by #aa-a_/b in4 ,while this piece of furniture can be made in any kind of wood1 the novice will find that quarter-sawed oak will work up and finish better than the other woods4 ,the stock list given has dimensions #a_/b in4 larger in some instances for dressing and squaring where necessary4 ,illustration ,the tenons and mortises are first cut for the crosspieces at the bottom of the posts1 and1 as it is best to use dowels at the top1 holes are bored in the bottom piece and also the ends of the slats for pins4 ,the bottom piece is also fastened to the posts with dowels4 ,the bottom must have a square piece cut out from each corner almost the same size as the posts4 ,when setting the sides together the end board and posts can be doweled and glued together and after drying well the posts can be spread apart far enough to insert the bottom rail and two slats4 ,the rail and slats should be tried for a bit before putting on any glue1 which may save some trouble4 ,illustration3 ,shaving ,stand ,complete ,after the sides are put together1 the back is put in and glued4 ,the top is then put on and fastened with cleats from the inside4 ,the partitions are put in as shown and the door fitted4 ,two drawers are made from the ends and the soft wood material4 ,the drawer ends may be supplied with wood pulls of the same material or matched with metal the same as used for the hinges4 ,illustration3 ,mirror ,frame and ,standards ,details ,the pieces for the mirror frame must be rabbeted #a_/b in4 deep to take the glass1 and the ends joined together with a miter at each corner4 ,the two short posts are tenoned and mortises cut in the bottom piece for joints and these joints well glued together4 ,the bottom piece is then fastened to the top board of the stand4 ,this will form the standards in which to swing the mirror and its frame4 ,this is done with two pins inserted in holes bored through the standards and into the mirror frame4 ,after the parts are all put together1 cleaned and sandpapered1 the stand is ready for the finish4 ,a ,,mission ,,waste-,,paper ,,basket ,illustration3 ,waste-,paper ,basket to ,match ,library ,table ,the basket shown in the accompanying sketch is designed to be used with a library table having slats in the ends and wooden handles on the drawers4 ,the finish is made to match that of the table by fuming1 when completely assembled1 in a large-size size1 clean garbage can1 with fumes of concentrated ammonia4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,waste-,paper ,basket ,the following quarter-sawed white-oak stock should be procured in the exact dimensions given4 ,this may be had1 planed and cut to lengths1 from a mill for a slight extra charge4 ,it is advisable not to have them sandpapered1 as the very coarse sandpaper generally used1 gives a bad surface for finishing4 #d posts1 #a-a_/d by #a-a_/d by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d rails1 #c_/d by #c by #aj-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d rails1 #c_/d by #b by #aj-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #ab slats1 #c_/h by #b-a_/d by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d handle pieces1 #a by #a by #b-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b handle pieces1 #a_/b by #a_/b by #f in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a bottom1 #c_/h by #i-a_/b by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,see that the posts are absolutely square cross section4 ,mark with a pencil--not gauge--the chamfers on the ends of the posts and plane them off4 ,carefully mark the tenons on the ends of all the rails with a knife and gauge lines4 ,be sure that the distance from the tenon shoulder at one end of rail to the shoulder at the other end is exactly the same on each rail4 ,cut the tenons1 using a backsaw and chisel4 ,arrange the pieces as they are to stand in the finished basket1 and number each tenon and mortise4 ,mark all the mortises on the posts1 being sure to keep the distances between the top and lower rail the same on each post4 ,cut each mortise to fit the correspondingly numbered tenon4 ,next1 mark the mortises for the slats in the rails1 allowing the whole slat to go in #a_/d in4 ,the handles are next in order4 ,the pieces going into the rail should be fastened with a round #a_/b-;in4 tenon cut on one end and glued in place4 ,the crosspiece should be mortised all the way through these pieces and held in place by a brad from the under side4 ,now put the whole basket together without gluing1 in order that errors1 if any1 may be detected4 ,if everything fits perfectly1 the basket is ready to be glued4 ,for best results hot glue should be used4 ,first glue up two opposite sides with the slats in place4 ,clamps must be used4 ,when these have set for at least #bd hours1 the other rails and slats may be glued in place and clamped4 ,it is a good idea to pin the tenons in place with two #a-;in4 brads driven from the inside4 ,the handles are then glued in place1 using hand screws to hold them until the glue sets4 ,the bottom should rest on thin cleats1 without being nailed to them1 so that it may be removed when the basket is to be emptied of small papers1 etc4 ,before applying the stain1 see that all glue spots are removed and all surfaces sanded to perfect smoothness4 ,if a fumed finish is not desired1 any good stain may be used1 after which a thin coat of shellac and two coats of wax should be applied4 ,allow plenty of time for drying between the coats4 ,a ,,cellarette ,,pedestal ,illustration3 ,plain-,oak ,cellarette ,pedestal ,the illustration shows a unique article for the den4 ,it serves as a pedestal and has one side which opens on hinges allowing the inside to be used as a smoker's cabinet or cellarette4 ,all the lines are straight and the corners square1 making it easy to construct4 ,white oak will make up best1 although ash1 birch or southern pine may be used with good effect4 ,stock of the following sizes should be bought1 surfaced and cut to width and length3 #b top pieces1 #g_/h by #ab by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b base pieces1 #g_/h by #ad by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b sides1 #g_/h by #h by #ce-e_/h in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a back1 #g_/h by #f-a_/d by #ce-e_/h in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a door1 #g_/h by #f-a_/d by #cd-c_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d blocks1 #g_/h by #d by #d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d shelves1 #g_/h by #f-a_/d by #f-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d pieces1 #g_/h by #a by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,make the top and base of two pieces1 glued and screwed together with the grain crossed4 ,this method prevents warping4 ,to keep the end grain from showing1 a strip of #c_/h-;in4 lumber may be put on all around as shown in the drawing4 ,have the sides1 front and back squared up perfectly4 ,the sides are to overlap the back and to be fastened to it with round-head brass or blue screws4 ,to the center of the top and base attach one of the #f-a_/d-;in4 square pieces4 ,over these1 fit the sides and back and fasten them with screws or nails4 ,the four corner blocks are now put under the base4 ,two or more shelves may be set in as shown4 ,brass or copper hinges will look well if a dark stain is to be used4 ,around the sides and back a #a-;in4 strip should be fastened to the base to give added strength4 ,if a dull finish is desired1 apply two coats of stain and two of prepared wax4 ,if a polished surface is wanted1 first fill the pores of the wood with any standard filler1 which can be purchased at a paint store4 ,after this has dried partly1 rub off any surplus filler1 rubbing across the grain of the wood4 ,when perfectly dry apply one coat of shellac and as many coats of varnish as desired1 rubbing down each coat1 except the last1 with ,no4 #jj sandpaper and pumice stone4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,cellarette ,pedestal ,a ,,dresser ,the dresser shown in the illustration was made of quarter-sawed white oak and finished golden and waxed4 ,the mirror is of beveled glass and the following is the stock bill3 #a top1 #c_/d by #ai-a_/b by #cc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d posts1 #a-c_/d by #a-c_/d by #bh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d end rails1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d stiles1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b panels1 #c_/af by #ab by #ah in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c facings1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #bi in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b top frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #cb in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b top frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b mirror supports1 #a by #b by #cc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a mirror support1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #cc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #g-a_/d by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #f-a_/d by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #e-a_/d by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a partition1 #c_/d by #a by #f in4 #b mirror-frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #dj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b mirror-frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,the following material list may be of common stock and not quarter-sawed3 ,mirror-backing pieces equivalent to #a_/d by #ah-a_/b by #cf in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b cleats1 #c_/d by #b by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d drawer-support frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #bi in4 #g drawer-support frame pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #ae in4 ,slides taken from scrap stock1 #c_/d by #a by #ae in4 #c back pieces1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b back pieces1 #a_/d by #h by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h drawer sides1 #a_/b by #g-a_/d by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer backs1 #c_/h by #g by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer backs1 #c_/h by #g by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #ae by #bg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #ae by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,in working up the various parts proceed in the usual manner4 ,if not thoroughly familiar with the various tool processes involved1 it will be necessary to investigate pieces of near-by furniture and to read up some good text dealing with the processes involved4 ,illustration3 ,dresser in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,the exact size of the mirror is #ah by #cf in4 and the frame should be rabbeted to correspond4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,dresser ,for a finish1 a coat of paste filler colored so as to give a rich golden brown should be applied first4 ,allow this to harden1 after rubbing and polishing it in the usual manner1 then apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,sand this lightly when hard1 and over this apply a coat of orange shellac4 ,over the shellac put several coats of some good rubbing wax and polish each coat well4 ,if a striking contrast is wanted for the medullary rays of the quartering1 apply a golden-oak stain first4 ,sand this lightly1 then apply a second coat diluted one-half with solvent and sand again lightly4 ,apply a thin coat of shellac1 then1 when dry1 sand lightly and apply paste1 and proceed as before4 ,a ,,mission ,,sideboard ,oak is the most suitable material for making this sideboard and it should be first-class stock1 planed and cut to the dimensions given in the following list3 #a top1 #g_/h by #bb by #dh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a top shelf1 #g_/h by #ab by #dh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a bottom1 #g_/h by #bb by #dh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b back posts1 #b by #b by #eg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b front posts1 #b by #b by #cf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b standards1 #b by #b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b mirror rails1 #g_/h by #b by #dg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b mirror rails1 #g_/h by #b by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c front and back rails1 #g_/h by #c by #df in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d end rails1 #g_/h by #c by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d standard rails1 #g_/h by #b by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b vertical pieces1 #g_/h by #ai-a_/b by #bb in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a horizontal piece1 #g_/h by #bb by #ad-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a drawer front1 #g_/h by #f by #ad-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a piece1 #g_/h by #c by #c in4 #d vertical door pieces1 #g_/h by #b by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d horizontal door pieces1 #g_/h by #b by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer sides1 #g_/h by #e by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a drawer bottom1 #a_/d by #ad by #ad-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a back panel1 #a_/d by #af-a_/b by #dd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b door panels1 #a_/d by #aj-a_/b by #ae-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b side panels1 #a_/d by #ah-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,mission ,sideboard ,begin work by cutting the posts to the length indicated in the detail drawing4 ,the top ends are tapered with a #a_/b-;in4 slant4 ,these posts are cut in pairs and it is best to stand them up in the same position they will be in the finished sideboard1 and mark the sides to be mortised with a pencil4 ,also cut the grooves into which the panels are to fit4 ,these are to be #a_/d in4 wide and a little over #a_/d in4 deep4 ,illustration3 ,mission ,sideboard in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,the rails are cut with tenon ends to match the mortises1 and also have grooves to receive the panels4 ,the bottom part of the back is closed with a panel and two rails1 one at the same height from the floor as the front bottom rail1 and the top one even with the under side of the top4 ,the large panel is for the opening thus formed4 ,these parts are now put together1 using plenty of good hot glue1 and spreading it well on the mortises and tenon ends4 ,when drawing the frame together with the clamps1 care must be taken to get it square4 ,after the glue is hard enough to remove the clamps1 the top and bottom are put in place4 ,the corners of the top are notched out to fit around the posts1 while the bottom is cut to fit on the inside of the rails and is held in place by putting screws in at an angle through the bottom into the rails4 ,the top is also fastened in this way1 except that the screws are run through the rails into the top4 ,the two vertical pieces are now put in place4 ,drive nails through the bottom and into these pieces4 ,on the top end use screws driven at an angle4 ,glue may be used if desired4 ,the doors are made to match these openings4 ,the corners are mitered and the backs rabbeted to receive the panels4 ,these panels may be made in art glass if so desired4 ,the horizontal piece for the drawer to rest upon is now put in place and fastened by driving nails through the vertical pieces4 ,the drawer is made to fit this opening1 and it should be lined with velvet to keep the silverware in good condition4 ,the standards and shelves are put on as shown in the drawing4 ,the mirror is put in a frame1 which is made to fit the back opening and has the corners mitered and the back rabbeted to receive the mirror4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts that are visible4 ,the sideboard is now ready to be finished as desired4 ,a ,,hall ,,or ,,window ,,seat ,illustration3 ,seat ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,a simple design for a hall or window seat is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing4 ,anyone who has a few sharp tools1 and is at all handy with them1 can make this useful and attractive piece of furniture in a few spare hours4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use in its construction1 as it looks best when finished and is easy to procure4 ,if the stock is ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded1 much of the labor will be saved4 ,the following is a list of the material needed3 #d corner posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b side rails1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b end rails1 #c_/d by #d by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b side braces1 #a by #a by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b end braces1 #a by #a by #ad-a_/b in4 ,s-#d-,s4 #a seat1 #a by #af by #ce-c_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b top end braces1 #c_/d by #b by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #f slats1 #c_/d by #b by #f-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,square up the four posts and lay out the mortises according to the drawing4 ,to do this1 lay them on a flat surface with the ends square and mark them with a try-square4 ,the tenons on the end and side rails are laid out in the same manner as the posts4 ,the end rails should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the detail drawing4 ,fit the end and side braces with mortise and tenon joints4 ,the two end frames can now be glued and clamped together and set away to dry4 ,put all the parts together before gluing to see that they fit square and tight4 ,the seat should be made of one piece if possible1 otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together4 ,the corners should be cut out to fit around the posts4 ,it rests on the side rails and cleats fastened to the inner side of the end rails4 ,when the window seat is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints1 as the finish will not take where there is any glue4 ,remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper1 then apply the stain best liked1 which may be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,if this window seat is well made and finished1 it will be an ornament to any home4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,hall or ,window ,seat ,a ,,mission ,,plant ,,stand ,for the mission plant stand shown in the illustration secure the following list of quarter-sawed white-oak stock1 cut and finished to size3 #a top1 #c_/d by #ae-a_/b by #ae-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d posts1 #a-a_/d by #a-a_/d by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d rails1 #c_/d by #c by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b rails1 #c_/d by #b by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #f by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slats1 #a_/d by #b by #ab-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b slats1 #a_/d by #b by #ab-c_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,test all surfaces of the posts with a try-square to see that they are square with each other4 ,lay out the tenons on the ends of the rails as shown in the sketch and cut with a tenon saw and chisel4 ,arrange the posts and rails as they are to stand and number each tenon and mortise4 ,lay out the mortises in the legs1 taking the measurements directly from the tenon which is to fit that mortise4 ,cut the mortises1 first having bored to the depth with a #a_/d-;in4 bit4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,plant ,stand ,the slats should now be made and mortised into the top rail #a_/d in4 ,they come outside of the lower rail and are held to it with two small brads1 fancy-headed tacks1 or round-head screws4 ,in laying out the mortises for the lower rails1 care must be taken to have them set #a_/h in4 farther in than the upper rails so the slats may come outside4 ,set up the stand without glue or screws to see that all pieces fit accurately4 ,then glue up the sides with the slats first4 ,after these have set for #bd hours1 fit in the other two rails and the shelf4 ,three flat-head screws should be used to hold the shelf in place4 ,these must be placed so the slats will cover them when they are attached4 ,illustration3 ,complete ,plant ,stand ,when this work is completed it is ready for the top4 ,a good method of attaching the top is shown in the sketch4 ,the screws used for fastening should be #b-;in4 ,no4 #aj4 ,bore into the rail #a-a_/b in4 with a bit #a_/af in4 larger than the head of the screw4 ,then bore through the rest of the way with a bit a little larger than the shank of the screw4 ,thus a little space is left for expansion and shrinkage of the top4 ,scrape and sandpaper thoroughly to remove all marks or glue spots4 ,finish with two coats of weathered-oak stain1 followed by two coats of black wax4 ,a ,,bedside ,,medicine ,,stand ,the accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a bedside stand4 ,this is a very desirable piece of furniture and is simple and easy to make4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use in its construction4 ,the material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,the following list of material will be required3 #d posts1 #a-c_/d by #a-c_/d by #cc in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top board1 #a by #ai by #ai in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #c intermediate boards1 #c_/d by #ae-a_/b by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b side boards1 #c_/d by #e by #ae-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back board1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d side rails1 #c_/d by #b by #af in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a door1 #c_/d by #i by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back board1 #c_/d by #aj-a_/d by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b panels1 #c_/h by #i-a_/b by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #f slats1 #a_/d by #a by #h-c_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b sides for drawer1 #a_/b by #d-a_/d by #af in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back for drawer1 #a_/b by #d-a_/d by #ac-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #a bottom for drawer1 #a_/b by #ac-a_/b by #ae in41 soft wood4 ,illustration3 ,medicine ,stand in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,start work on the four posts by rounding the top corners and shaping the feet as shown4 ,the four posts are identical and the mortises should be laid out on all four at once so as to get them all alike4 ,these should be carefully cut with a sharp chisel4 ,on the inner surface of each leg cut a groove to hold the side boards of the lower compartment4 ,next prepare the two wide and the four narrow crosspieces1 tenoning them to fit the mortises already cut in the legs4 ,the lower crosspieces should also have grooves cut in them to hold the side boards of the compartment4 ,the two complete sides can now be glued and clamped together and set away to dry4 ,while they are drying the remaining parts of the stand can be made4 ,the three horizontal boards are now made by notching out the corners to fit around the legs4 ,they are supported by fastening small cleats to the inner surface of each crosspiece4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,medicine ,stand ,the two ends can now be set up and connected4 ,notch out the corners of the top board and fit it in place4 ,the top is fastened down by means of screws set in at an angle from below4 ,the back boards can be of soft wood and are fastened in place in the usual manner4 ,the door should be of one piece if possible and should have suitable hinges and a catch4 ,make and fit the drawer in place1 and the stand is ready for the finish4 ,first scrape all the surplus glue from about the points so the stain will not be kept from the wood4 ,finish smooth with fine sandpaper1 then apply stain of the color desired4 ,a ,,mission ,,hall ,,chair ,this hall chair is designed to take up as little room as possible4 ,for its construction the following stock will be needed3 #a back1 #g_/h by #ad by #dd in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b sides1 #g_/h by #ad by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a seat1 #g_/h by #ad by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #g_/h by #f by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a brace1 #g_/h by #e by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a piece1 #g_/h by #g_/h by #dd in41 for cleats4 ,these dimensions are for finished pieces1 therefore #a_/d in4 should be allowed for planing if the stock cannot be secured finished4 ,lay out and cut the design on the back1 sides1 and brace4 ,to cut the openings1 first bore a hole near one corner to get the blade of a coping saw through and proceed to saw to the lines4 ,smooth the edges after sawing by taking a thin shaving with a sharp chisel4 ,a file will not leave a good surface4 ,mark the tenons on the ends of the stretcher and cut them with a backsaw and make smooth with a chisel4 ,from the tenons mark the mortises in the sides through which they are to pass4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,hall ,chair ,illustration3 ,complete ,hall ,chair in ,plain ,oak ,to cut these mortises1 first bore a row of holes with a #e_/h in4 bit1 boring halfway from each side so as not to split off any pieces4 ,now make of scrap material the two keys and from them mark the small mortises in the tenons4 ,before putting the chair together1 the cleats for holding the seat should be fastened to the sides1 back and brace4 ,use flat-head screws for this purpose4 ,then put the sides and stretcher together1 and fasten the back to the sides with flat-head screws4 ,the brace should be put in next1 using three round-head screws in each end4 ,there only remains the top1 which is held by screws through the cleats from the under side4 ,stain with two coats of weathered or mission-oak stain1 and then apply a thin coat of under-lac or shellac and two coats of wax4 ,illustration 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,table of ,contents was moved to the front of the doument ,bold text in the original manuscript is indicated with 444 ,folio #hd3 ,chipppendale changed to ,chippendale4 ,folio #ij3 #b drawer ends #g_/h x 8 x #g-a_/b was changed to an assumed #e-a_/b from context of the illustration4 ,a table of contents was added to the front of the text4 ,a list of illustrations was added to the front of the text4