,transcriber's ,note3 ,minor typographical errors have been corrected without note4 ,dialect spellings1 contractions and discrepancies have been retained4 ,illustration3 ,,lady ,,curzon ,,the ,,woman ,,beautiful ,by ,,mme4 ,,qui ,,vive 7,,helen ,,follett ,,stevans7 ,,chicago ,,jamieson-,,higgins ,,co4 #aija ,,copyright1 #ahii1 ,,by ,,stevans ,,and ,,handy ,,preface ,the ,woman ,beautiful is not a radiant creature of gorgeous plumage and artificial beauty1 but a woman of wholesome health1 good hard sense1 sparkling vivacity and sweet lovableness4 ,her beauty-creed hangs not from rouge pots and bleaches1 but suspends like a banner of truth from the laws of wise1 hygienic living4 ,her cheeks are tinted with the glow that comes from good1 well-circulated blood1 her eyes are bright and lovely because her mind is so1 and her complexion is transparent and soft and velvety for the reason that the true art is known to her4 ,the ,woman ,beautiful is all sincerity4 ,she doesn't like to sail under false colors and so insult old ,dame ,nature1 whose kindnesses and benefits are so well meant and freely offered4 ,,table ,,of ,,contents ,,page ,,the ,,complexion #i ,expression #ad ,useless ,beauty #af ,washing the ,face #bj ,facial ,eruptions and ,blackheads #bc ,tan1 ,sunburn and ,freckles #bg ,complexion ,powders #cb ,wrinkles #ce ,recipes for the ,complexion #ci ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,hair #df ,dressing the ,hair #ef ,superfluous ,hair #fc ,recipes for the ,hair #fe ,,the ,,hands #fh ,bathing the ,hands #ga ,care of the ,finger ,nails #gc ,recipes for the ,hands #ge ,,the ,,eyes #gi ,the ,girl ,who ,cries #hc ,the ,eyelashes #hf ,the ,eyebrows #hf ,,the ,,teeth #hh ,,bathing #ic ,,diet #ajj ,,sleep #aji ,,exercise #aad ,,stooped ,,shoulders #abe ,,breathing #acj ,,massage #acf ,,dress #add ,,the ,,thin ,,girl #adi ,,the ,,plump ,,girl #aed ,,the ,,working ,,girl #afa ,,the ,,nervous ,,one #afg ,,perfumes #agd ,the ,woman ,beautiful ,,the ,,complexion ,the bloom of opening flowers1 unsullied beauty1 ,softness and sweetest innocence she wears1 ,and looks like ,nature in the world's first ,spring4 --,rowe4 ,bad complexions cause more heartaches than crushed ambitions and cases of sudden poverty4 ,the reason is plain4 ,ordinary troubles roll away from the mind of a cheery1 energetic woman like water from a duck's back1 but beauty worries--well6 they have the most amazingly insistent way of sticking to one4 ,you may say you won't think of them1 but you do just the same4 ,it was always thus1 and thus it always will be4 ,diogenes searched untiringly for an honest man--so they say4 ,woman1 bless her dear1 ambitious heart1 seeks with unabating energy the ways and means of becoming beautiful4 ,after all1 they're not so hard to find when once the secret of it is known4 ,like the keys and things rattling about in her undiscoverable pocket1 they're right with her4 ,if she will but stop her fretting for a moment1 sit down and think1 then gird on her armor and begin the task--why1 that's all that's needed4 ,there are three great rules for beauty4 ,the first is diet1 the second bathing1 and the third exercise4 ,all can be combined in the one word health4 ,but1 alas6 how few of us have come into the understanding of correct living6 ,it is woman's impulse--so ,i have found--to buy a jar of cream and expect a miracle to be worked on a bad complexion in one brief night4 ,how absurd1 when the cause of the worry may be a bad digestion1 impure blood or general lack of vitality6 ,one might just as well expect a corn plaster to cure a bad case of pneumonia1 or an eye lotion to remedy locomotor ataxia4 ,the cream may struggle bravely and heal the little eruptions for a day or so1 but how can it possibly effect a permanent cure when the cause flourishes like a blizzard at ,medicine ,hat or a steam radiator in the first warm days of ,april8 ,cold cream1 pure powders and certain harmless face washes are godsends to womankind1 but they can't do everything6 ,they have their limitations1 just like any other good thing4 ,you may have a perfect paragon of a kitchen lady1 whose angel food is more heavenly than frapped snowflakes1 but you can't really expect her to build you a four-story house with little dofunnies on the cupolas4 ,of course not4 ,angel cake is her limit6 ,and that's the way with those lovely liquids and things on your pretty spindle-legged dressing table4 ,they can do a good deal in the beautifying line1 but they can't do everything4 ,give them the help of perfect health and scrupulous cleanliness of the skin1 and lo6 what wonders they will work6 ,there is but one way--and it's so simple--of making oneself good to look upon4 ,resolve to live hygienically4 ,there is nothing in the world which works swifter toward a clear1 glowing1 fine-textured and beautiful complexion than a simple1 natural diet of grains and nuts and fruits4 ,but you women--oh6 it positively pains me to think of the broiled lobsters1 the deviled crabs with tartar sauce1 the pickles1 and the conglomerate nightmare-lunches that you consume4 ,and yet you're forever fussing over leathery skins1 dark-circled eyes and a lack of rosy pink cheeks4 ,oh1 woman6 woman6 why aren't you wise8 ,here are some rules4 ,they're golden1 too3 ,eat with wisdom and good sense4 ,that means to pension off the pie and its companion workers of physical woe4 ,take a tepid sponge bath every day1 either upon arising in the morning or just before going to bed4 ,limit the hot scrubbings to one a week4 ,exercise with regularity1 and dress as a rational human being should4 ,drink three pints of pure1 distilled water every day4 ,see that the bedroom is well ventilated1 and don't heap up the pillows until you have a mountain range upon which to rest your poor1 tired head4 ,a flat bed and a low pillow help toward a fine1 straight figure and a good carriage4 ,keep your feet warm4 ,give those pretty round yellow silk garters to the girl you hate1 and invest in sensible hose supporters4 ,if your circulation is defective1 wear wool stockings4 ,don't fret4 ,bear in mind what ,sheridan said3 ,a night of fretful passion may consume ,all that thou hast of beauty's gentle bloom2 ,and one distempered hour of sordid fear ,prints on thy brow the wrinkles of a year4 ,then rest4 ,don't1 ,i beg of you1 live on the ragged edge of your nerve force4 ,you need quiet1 and all you can get of it4 ,we victims of civilization go through life at a breakneck gallop1 and it's an immense mistake4 ,anyhow1 those who know say so4 ,and it sounds reasonable4 ,but1 after all1 the complexion is only a small part toward the making of a beautiful woman4 ,the hair must be kept sweet and clean and healthy1 and the teeth should be white and lovely4 ,it was ,rousseau1 you know1 who said that no woman with good teeth could be ugly4 ,then the hands and nails must have proper attention4 ,deep breathing should be practiced daily and the body properly exercised4 ,the carriage must be graceful1 the walk easy and without effort1 the eyes bright1 the expression of the face cheerful and animated1 the shoulders and head well poised--but all these are different stories4 ,there's a chapter in each one of them4 ,above all1 remember this one rule3 ,don't fret4 ,don't wear a look of trouble and worry4 ,above everything else1 remember those delicious lines of the immortal bard3 ,you have such a ,february face1 ,so full of frost1 of storm1 of cloudiness4 ,and after remembering1 refrain4 ,,expression4 ,one of the first things to remember in the cultivation of beauty is expression4 ,who doesn't enjoy looking upon the young girl1 with a bright1 cheerful face1 laughing eyes and all that8 ,everybody6 ,and when the grumpy lady or the whiney lady or the lady of woes trots in and sullies your near landscape1 how do you feel8 ,just about as cheery as if she'd come to ask you to attend a funeral6 ,my dear girls1 it doesn't matter if you have got a freckle or two1 or if your nose does tilt up just a little too much1 if you have a jolly1 bright face people will call you pretty4 ,you can count on that every time4 ,good nature is a splendid beautifier4 ,it brightens the eyes1 discourages approaching wrinkles1 and brings the apple blossom tints into your cheeks4 ,another thing to remember is this3 ,keep the mind active4 ,there's nothing that will make a stolid1 bovine face like a brain that isn't made to get up and hustle4 ,don't sit around and read lovey-dovey novels or spend your time chatting with that stupid woman next door4 ,don't forget that life is short and there's not a moment to waste4 ,when hubby discusses the question of expansion just pipe up and show him what you know about it4 ,don't get into an argument with him1 but let him see that you read the papers and that you know a thing or two about passing events4 ,then don't stay cooped up in the house4 ,go out every day1 if it's only to the corner market1 and if you have to wade through snowdrifts4 ,in short1 be up and doing4 ,don't dwell on past griefs or griefs that have not yet arrived4 ,study is mental development1 and mental development usually means a bright1 pleasing expression4 ,,useless ,,beauty4 ,as a general rule1 the man of brains and good sense--and he's the only man worth considering seriously--heartily despises the useless beauty4 ,by this ,i mean the woman who is always togged up and crimped and curled and looks as if she were not worth a row of pins except as a means of livelihood to the modistes and the milliners and the hairdressers6 ,the kind of beauty that ,i like is the sort that is active1 doing1 achieving1 and working for some good4 ,i believe1 and fully too1 that we can all appear at our best and yet not look as if we were made of cut glass and ,dresden that would crack or break or peel off if the lake winds happened to take a fancy to blow our way4 ,it may sound at a frightful variance from the general preaching of the beauty teacher1 but--between you and me and the ice cream soda that we do not drink because it upsets our stomachs and ruins our complexions--,i have simply no use whatever for the little girl who puts in the entire day 7and half the night7 fussing over her complexion1 kinking her hair into seventeen little twists and curlycues1 and dabbling lotions and things on her nose till you can't rest4 ,a certain amount of all this is necessary1 but don't give your life over to it4 ,the waste of time is enough to make one want to be a ,patagonian lady whose sole adornments in the beautifying line consist of a necklace of elephant's teeth and a few ,patagonian babies4 ,when beautifying gets to the stage where one has no time for mental refurbishing it ceases to be beauty culture1 and is simply nonsense and loss of time4 ,i can spot this class of women a block away4 ,in my mind's eye ,i can see them fussing and primping for hours before they are ready to don their street clothes and get down into the shopping district for the day's work of pricing real lace and buying hairpins4 ,and ,i always look around me and think of what a vast deal of work there is in this great1 big1 sorrowful old world1 and what direful need there is of every one pitching in and helping4 ,to me1 the useless woman is not a pretty woman4 ,she is an ornament1 like the shepherdess on the mantelpiece or the ,spanish lady in the picture frame that hangs in the hallway4 ,but the other woman--the pretty and the useful woman--oh1 but she is a sight to make old eyes grow young4 ,her gown is spotless1 her hair all fluffy and lovely1 her hat just at the correct angle4 ,she steps along quickly1 and you know by the very air about her that she is a worker1 be she of the smart set or of the humdrum life that toils and spins from morn till eve4 ,her eyebrows are not penciled1 there is not a trace of rouge on her cheeks1 but she is a healthy1 well-built1 active woman1 whose very appearance of neatness1 sweetness and buoyancy tells all who see her that she is a devotee of the daily bath1 the dumb-bells1 the correct and hygienic life4 ,in half an hour any woman should be able to take her plunge1 coddle her complexion1 dress her hair1 manicure her nails1 and attend to her teeth4 ,if more time be needed1 then the work is hardly worth the while1 for life is mighty short1 my dears1 and things that must be done pile up as the years go by4 ,at night in fifteen minutes the face and hands can be well washed1 the hair brushed and combed and plaited1 the teeth well cleaned1 and the complexion massaged with a little pure home-made cream4 ,of course1 when the hair is shampooed or the nails manicured with particular care1 or the complexion subjected to a thorough cleansing by steam or massage1 then more time is necessary4 ,but the gist of it all is this3 ,let us not spend so much time on the exterior effect that we will forget that which is most necessary to a beautiful woman--the bright1 interesting mind1 the love of learning things1 the desire to be keeping apace with just a little bit of the world's progress1 and1 best of all1 teaching oneself how to live wisely and well4 ,there never was--to my way of thinking--a brainless1 silly woman who was beautiful4 ,it takes the light of intellect1 the splendor of sweet womanliness1 the glory of kindness1 unselfishness and goodness to complete a perfect picture of the woman beautiful4 ,,washing ,,the ,,face4 ,a good old stand-by query is about the simple matter of keeping one's face clean4 ,there is no manner of doubt but that the hard water which we have in the cities is responsible for many complexion ills1 and that we must not use it too generously upon our complexions if we long for the colors of the rose and the lily in our cheeks4 ,there is nothing in the world so excellent as rain-water for the skin1 but it's a great bulging problem as to how those of us who live in yardless flats and apartments can manage to catch the elusive rain-drops4 ,we might as well hope to lasso an electric car and hitch it onto our back porches for the babies to play in1 ,i think4 ,when city people persist in telling others to wash their faces in rain-water and thus secure beauty everlasting and glorious1 ,i always have a mental picture of a frantic lady with golden locks a-streaming and her eyes brimful of wildness1 rushing madly down the street with basins and things in her outstretched hands4 ,it's all right if one has rain-barrels or cisterns1 but1 after years of perspiring and nerve-sizzling flat hunting1 ,i have failed to find apartments provided with either of these luxuries4 ,with folding beds built in the sleeping apartments and steam radiators with real steam in them1 the landlords feel that their duties are done4 ,but to return to our muttons4 ,those who cannot have real rain-water should use the harder brand sparingly on their faces4 ,a thorough scrubbing at night before going to bed is an absolute necessity1 lest the pores of the skin become clogged with the smoke and dust of our murky atmosphere4 ,a little castile soap and a camel's-hair face brush will assist the cleansing operation4 ,to soften the water1 ,i would advise the following delightful lotion3 ,four ounces of alcohol4 ,one ounce ammonia4 ,one dram oil of lavender4 ,one teaspoonful to a large basin of water is sufficient4 ,to keep the skin free from harshness and on unpleasant terms with wrinkles and turkey tracks1 a little pure cold cream should be used4 ,if1 in the morning1 the skin has not absorbed all the oils of the cream1 then wipe away with a cloth just slightly moistened4 ,when at other times the face needs washing1 let me suggest that this toilet milk be used4 ,it is also excellent to apply before fluffing powder over the cheeks3 ,milk of violets3 ,cucumber juice1 boiled and cooled1 one ounce4 ,spirit of soap1 one ounce4 ,rose-water or orange flower water1 four ounces4 ,by remembering that there are two tablespoonfuls to the ounce1 the measuring will not be at all difficult4 ,if one wishes a stronger perfume add a few drops of violet extract4 ,whether rose-water or orange flower be used is left to one's own choice4 ,they are equally excellent for the skin4 ,,facial ,,eruptions ,,and ,,blackheads4 ,with most women1 pimples are caused by indigestion or constipation4 ,unless the body throws off its waste material as it should1 the poisonous matter will endeavor to find a way out through the pores of the skin4 ,the face1 being the most sensitive1 is usually the first part of the body to be afflicted4 ,the remedy for facial blemishes is found in exercise1 baths and a careful diet4 ,and that reminds me that ,i would like to remark right here that the combinations that girls and women get when they order lunches are appalling enough to raise the hair right off one's head1 most particularly if one has any idea at all of the general rules of hygiene and health4 ,it is just as easy to put beautifying foods into your stomach if you will but once make up your mind to it4 ,and what a host of trouble it will save you6 ,not only in cosmetics1 but doctor bills4 ,what you eat is the fuel that keeps the engine of life going4 ,good food makes good strong muscles1 pure blood and a fair1 healthy1 firm skin4 ,if there are troublesome little blotches on your face then mend your eating ways1 even though it breaks your heart to give up those awful and indigestible dainties that you dote on so religiously4 ,in place of the pastries and the sweets and the pickles and the highly spiced dishes1 substitute fruit and vegetables4 ,save all those nickels and dimes that you invest in ice cream soda1 and instead exchange them for lemons and oranges that will help drive away the unsightly pimples and red blemishes4 ,if possible1 make your entire breakfast of fruit1 either cooked or raw4 ,if the apples and oranges and peaches and pears do not make active the digestive organs1 then go to a reliable druggist and have this harmless and excellent prescription filled3 ,extract of dandelion1 one dram4 ,powdered rhubarb1 q4 s4 ,divide into three and one-half grain pills and take one every night1 or oftener if necessary4 ,a state of nervousness will ofttimes bring a heart-wringing crop of eruptions to the surface of the skin1 and this condition is best remedied by plenty of baths1 lots of fresh air1 exercise1 and a stiff but cheerful determination to brace up and not have any nerves--which1 by the way1 is much easier said than done1 as most of us know to our sorrow4 ,no matter of what order the facial eruptions may be1 they must be treated with the greatest gentleness possible4 ,there is nothing in the world worse than rubbing them with a coarse towel1 a proceeding strongly advised by the old-fashioned ones who--bless their hearts--are so likely to stick to old-timey notions till the cows come home1 no matter what arguments may be brought up to convince them of their mistaken views4 ,pimples must never be irritated4 ,breaking or bruising the skin only adds to its diseased condition and general irritation4 ,if the complexion is unsightly with red blotches1 a solution of boric acid in boiling water1 used warm1 will be an effective lotion4 ,its application should1 of course1 be combined with proper living as laid out above1 care being taken as to diet1 exercise and the tepid daily bath4 ,a good cold cream should also be used4 ,i have been told by many that continuous applications of creme marquise had done away with pimples and blackheads1 and it is frequently found that nothing more than a sensible diet and some simple pure face cosmetic is needed4 ,when the skin is merely inflamed--that is1 red of color and very tender1 there is nothing better than a soothing cream like this4 ,listerine1 witch hazel and eau de cologne are all good as external lotions for pimples4 ,a paste of sulphur and spirits of camphor1 which should be put on at night and washed off the following morning1 will do good work1 provided the beauty patient knows the laws of health4 ,illustration3 ,,mrs4 ,,ogden ,,armour ,when there are both blackheads and pimples the latter must first be gotten rid of4 ,when the skin is perfectly free of these1 then begin with a camel's hair face-scrubbing brush to do away with the blackheads4 ,wash the face thoroughly with the brush every night just before going to bed1 using warm water and pure castile soap4 ,if the blackheads are very bad add alcohol to the water4 ,that is very cleansing1 but as it is also drying1 a face cream must be smeared on immediately after the face is rinsed and wiped4 ,for some days it may seem that the pores are large and coarse and open1 but they are simply undergoing a cleansing process that in the end will bring a lovely white1 perfect skin4 ,whenever ,i hear women say that they never wash their faces1 but use a cream instead1 ,i always wonder if they really feel clean4 ,i am sure ,i would not4 ,fancy the state of our hands were we never to wash them6 ,and the face1 having more oil glands1 is in still greater need of soap and water4 ,however1 let me say right here that no soap at all is better than a cheap scented soap1 and unless the very best and purest soaps can be had it is much more desirable to substitute almond meal or something of the sort4 ,treatment for blackheads calls for the same care of the health as does treatment for pimples4 ,,tan1 ,,sunburn ,,and ,,freckles4 ,tan1 like borrowing friends1 and various other afflictions1 is awfully easy to get1 but really more than passing difficult to remove4 ,it is delightful to sit on a big bowlder that dots a great1 lovely1 sandy waste and watch your hands gradually turn from their customary whiteness to a deep burnt orange4 ,one has to have something to show for a trip out of town1 one thinks1 else the doubting ,thomases will arise and give vent to suspicions that one has been merely concealing oneself in an attic or back bedroom4 ,it is pleasant1 too1 to go fishing1 with a dainty1 absurd little hat that1 although it looks pretty1 is about as useful as would be a beaten biscuit pinned to one's tresses4 ,you feel your nose becoming unusually warm1 and it begins to tingle and smart as if the pores were filling up with hot sand4 ,all of which is quite in keeping with summer-resort existence1 and you are as proud as ,lucifer when you trail back to town to show this cerise-tinted evidence of your outing4 ,but the friends who you thought would envy you giggle and smirk and nudge each other and make suggestions that are supposed to be mirth-compelling4 ,and then and there you decide to do differently next summer4 ,a sunburned nose may be a treasurable possession away from town1 but back among the hosts of the city it is a different matter4 ,more than that1 it is an affliction4 ,if the weeks at the seashore or the lakes would only brown the summer girl it would not matter so much4 ,but instead of making the skin a beautiful1 poetical olive tint1 it usually turns it to a hue which is best compared to the flaunting colors of the auctioneer's emblem4 ,if the girl is reckless1 if she runs here and there without a hat1 and gives never a moment to the care of her skin1 her own mother is not likely to recognize her unless the summer girl soon repents and mends her ways4 ,what mischief ,old ,sol cannot do1 the brisk winds will contribute4 ,the result is usually a red-eyed1 red-nosed1 flakey-skinned little woman1 whom one would never suspect of having been rollicking through a few weeks of midsummer joys4 ,if her ears are not blistered1 her nose is1 and if her complexion is not harsh and rough from lack of care1 it is bespeckled with freckles and covered with a deep layer of golden brown tan that has distributed itself like patches on a crazy quilt4 ,there is not one woman in forty who can afford to ignore the ordinary precautions for preserving her complexion during the summer months4 ,a parasol is the first necessity4 ,a white gauze veil is another1 although this can be dispensed with if the skin is not particularly sensitive to sun and wind4 ,never1 under any circumstances1 must you bathe your face in soap and water before going out of door or just after coming in4 ,this habit will make the freckles pop out in fine order4 ,after coming in from a tramp or a fishing party bathe the face at once in half a cupful of sweet milk in which a pinch of soda has been dissolved4 ,if this is inconvenient1 as it often is when one is a hotel guest and not a cottager1 then use a good face cream4 ,strong soaps containing an excess of alkali are bad enough at any time1 but during the hot weather they are particularly trying to almost any skin4 ,too much care cannot be taken to get proper soaps4 ,the following sedative lotion applied to the face will prevent its tanning or freckling to any extent1 that is1 if one takes proper care of one's skin3 ,distilled witch hazel1 #c ounces4 ,prepared cucumber juice1 #c ounces4 ,rose-water1 #a-a_/b ounces4 ,essence white rose1 #a-a_/b ounces4 ,simple tincture of benzoin1 one-half ounce4 ,after rubbing this into the skin with the finger tips and letting the cuticle absorb it well1 apply a pure vegetable powder4 ,when the face becomes sunburned apply plenty of cold cream4 ,but be sure that it is your own home-made cream1 else you may be putting lard or something else on your face1 which1 in a most amazing short time1 will produce a thrifty growth of tiny1 fine hairs4 ,and then you will wish you had never lived to see the coming of the happy summertime4 ,lastly1 to remove freckles1 quickly apply lemon juice with a camel's hair complexion brush4 ,let the juice dry in and massage with creme marquise4 ,,complexion ,,powders4 ,whenever women fail for congenial topics of dispute they can always fall back on the old topic of the best face-powder4 ,i have used that delightful velvety ',blush ,rose' for years and years1 says ,mrs4 ,lovely1 and ,i think it is simply fine4 ,blush ,rose8 shrieks ,mrs4 ,pretty4 ,why1 ,i wouldn't use that for a-an-any-thing6 ,my husband's brother-in-law1 who worked in a drug store1 once told me that ',blush ,rose' had lead and bismuth and ever so many other dreadful1 awful things in it4 ,now1 ,i dote on ',velvety ,carnation4' ,i know that that is perfectly pure4 ,and it sticks just like your husband's relatives--simply never lets go6 ',velvety ,carnation6' repeats ,mrs4 ,lovely4 ,you poor child4 ,i don't wonder that you have such a time with your skin-- ,and so on until both charming disputants march airily away1 each deciding that the other will soon be in her grave if such foolishness in the choice of a face powder is continued4 ,women need not discuss finances or peace policies4 ,they have their own little face-powder question that is good for all time to come1 no matter whether we all go and settle in the ,philippines or hand these interesting islands back to ,spain with a much-obliged1 thank you4 ,i have often thought how thankful we should all be that we are not ,dahomey ladies1 who have no opportunities for these pleasant little arguments4 ,we may have to put up with a good many discomforts in our life of civilization1 but we don't miss quite everything in the way of joys4 ,the formula for face powder which ,i am about to give is not only perfectly harmless1 but of exceptional medicinal qualities4 ,nothing is better for an irritated skin than boracic acid1 so the girl with facial eruptions can feel perfectly safe in using this powder4 ,oxide of zinc1 in the quantity given1 can do no possible injury2 many of the manufactured preparations being made almost entirely of this ingredient4 ,poudre des ,fees 7,fairy ,powder73 #a ounce ,lubin's rice powder4 #c ounces best1 purest oxide of zinc4 #a_/b ounce carbonate of magnesia1 finely powdered4 #bj grains boracic acid4 #b drops attar of rose4 ,when purchasing your ingredients ask the druggist to powder each separately in a mortar4 ,first put your rice powder through a fine sieve1 and then through bolting cloth4 ,do the same thing with the oxide of zinc1 the magnesia and the boracic acid before adding them to the rice powder4 ,when all are combined put twice through bolting cloth4 ,after each sifting throw away any tiny particles that remain4 ,it is very necessary that all the ingredients be made fine and soft and fluffy4 ,add the oil of rose last4 ,by putting in the tiniest suggestion of finely powdered carmine you can get the cream powder1 and by putting in still more you will have the rose or pink tint4 ,while blonds1 with clear1 perfect skins1 can use either the white or the pink very nicely1 cream is the more acceptable color for brunettes4 ,consuelo ,powder3 #e ounces of talcum4 #e ounces of rice flour4 #b-a_/b ounces of the best zinc oxide4 #b drops each of oils of bergamot1 ylang-ylang and neroli4 ,the three main ingredients should be sifted over and over again1 and if flesh color is desired1 a little carmine must be added1 the sifting continuing4 ,then add the perfumes and sift again1 so as to avoid any lumps4 ,a formula for violet powder is given in the chapter on perfumes4 ,,wrinkles4 ,it doesn't matter whether or not you are afflicted with wrinkles1 it's an excellent thing to give them some attention4 ,freckles are bothersome and provoking1 and red noses make us as cross as black cats1 but wrinkles6--they are the worst of all1 for with them comes the sickening realization that the freshness of one's complexion is beginning to fade1 and that youth itself is slipping away4 ,it is before the lines really appear that they should be considered1 for then they're much more easily managed than when they--with their sisters and their cousins and their aunts1 to say nothing of grandmas and babies--settle down for a nice long stay4 ,wrinkles are worse than bogie men1 and they'll git you if yo' don't watch out6 ,wrinkles are unnecessary evils--anyway1 until one gets to be a hundred or so4 ,that is1 if you are so lucky as not to have troubles enough to keep you awake six nights out of seven1 which seems to be the case with most people these days4 ,even then perhaps you can deceive yourself into believing that life is one big1 lovely1 roseate dream after all4 ,worry is a paragon of a wrinkle-maker4 ,and1 by the way1 did you ever know why8 ,it is not so much for the reason that screwing up the face traces lines and seams in the skin as it is because the fretting upsets the stomach4 ,it has a most depressing effect on that hyper-sensitive organ4 ,haven't you often noticed what a finicky1 doleful sort of an appetite you have whenever you are indulging in a fit of the blues8 ,the physiological explanation is the very close alliance of the great sympathetic nerves1 which make up a little telegraph line more perfect and complete than any yet constructed by man4 ,the poor1 worn brain is fagged and tired4 ,this fact is immediately communicated to the stomach1 which1 in true sisterly fashion1 mopes and sulks out of sheer sympathy4 ,then1 of course1 with an unruly digestion1 all sorts of complications begin4 ,the eyes get dull1 the face thin and sallow1 the complexion bad1 and the flesh flabby4 ,at that stage the wrinkles1 with their aforesaid relatives1 sail in upon the scene4 ,and there you are6 ,and--ten chances to one--it's a cheerful time you'll have getting rid of them4 ,that's why ,i say you must take them in hand before they arrive1 and dole out discouragement to them by correct living and the necessary facial massage4 ,the skin of the face wrinkles exactly for the same reason and by the same mechanism that the skin of an apple wrinkles4 ,the pulp of the fruit under the skin begins to shrink and contract as the juices dry up1 and1 quite naturally1 the skin which was once taut and smooth1 now being much too large for the contents1 puckers up and lays itself in tiny folds4 ,it's the same way with the skin of the face4 ,when the subcutaneous fat of the cheeks and brow--which1 when we are young and plump and rosy1 is abundant--begins to be absorbed and to gradually disappear1 then the cuticle straightway starts in to shrivel and fall into minute lines4 ,so it is wisdom to anticipate the coming of wrinkles and lay plans to ward them off4 ,live after strict rules of hygiene1 as told in the chapters on ,exercise1 ,baths1 ,sleep1 ,diet1 and ,dress4 ,have a tonic method of living4 ,invigorate your muscles and the skin of your body by sponge baths and brisk drying with a coarse bath towel4 ,friction is a great beautifier4 ,eat only that food which is going to do you some good1 and take your exercise with regularity4 ,add to this a happy1 hopeful disposition of mind and a big fat jar of pure1 properly-made skin food1 then read the chapter on massage and follow the instructions given therein4 ,if any wrinkles or crow's feet come and lodge with you after that1 then ,i'll take off my hat to their perseverance4 ,,recipes ,,for ,,the ,,complexion4 ,in compounding face creams one cannot be too careful and painstaking4 ,it is much like preparing a salad or a charlotte russe1 either of which can be utterly ruined by lack of care--or too much fussing4 ,the creme marquise is especially difficult for the woman who tumbles things together in a haphazard fashion4 ,unless compounded just so carefully1 it will be likely to crumble1 but when done according to directions it makes a cosmetic that is absolutely unrivaled4 ,the other creams which follow this formula are more easily made for the reason that they contain less fats and are therefore less apt to separate from the rose-water4 ,the creme marquise is a whiter1 harder preparation than any of the others4 ,creme ,marquise3 #a_/d ounce of white wax4 #b-a_/b ounces of spermaceti4 #b-a_/b ounces of oil of sweet almonds4 #a-a_/b ounces of rose-water4 #a drop attar of rose4 ,shave the wax and spermaceti1 and melt in a porcelain kettle4 ,add the almond oil and heat slightly1 but do not let boil4 ,remove from the stove and add the rose-water1 to which the perfume has been added4 ,beat until creamy1 and put in jars4 ,cease beating before the mass becomes really hard4 ,be sure that your druggist weighs the wax carefully1 for too much of this ingredient will spoil the creme by making it too firm4 ,this delightful preparation should be applied immediately after washing the face1 but can be used at any time4 ,it is absolutely harmless4 ,get the best materials--and see that your almond oil is the real thing instead of a cheap imitation1 which acts almost as poison to the skin4 ,strawberry ,cream3 ,white wax1 #a_/b ounce4 ,spermaceti1 #a_/b ounce4 ,sweet almond oil1 #b-a_/b ounces4 ,strawberry juice1 #c_/d of an ounce4 ,benzoin1 #c drops4 ,take large fresh berries4 ,wash and drain thoroughly4 ,macerate and strain the juice through a piece of muslin4 ,heat the white wax1 the spermaceti and the oil of almonds4 ,remove from the fire and add the strawberry juice very quickly4 ,beat briskly till fluffy1 adding the three drops of benzoin just as the mixture begins to cool4 ,put in jars and keep in a very cool place4 ,this quantity will fill a three-ounce jar4 ,apply every night as a cold cream4 ,this is particularly excellent for sunburn4 ,orange ,flower ,skin ,food3 ,spermaceti1 #a_/b ounce4 ,white wax1 #a_/b ounce4 ,sweet almond oil1 #b ounces4 ,lanoline1 #a ounce4 ,cocoanut oil1 #a ounce4 ,tincture benzoin1 #c drops4 ,orange flower water1 #a ounce4 ,melt the first five ingredients in a porcelain kettle4 ,take from the fire1 and add the benzoin and the orange flower water1 fluffing it with an egg-beater till cold4 ,this recipe will make five ounces1 quite enough to prepare at one time4 ,for those who dislike oily creams it will be found delightful1 as the skin absorbs it4 ,the mission of the skin food is to do away with wrinkles4 ,massage must1 of course1 accompany its application4 ,for hollow cheeks or dry1 rough skin it is unexcelled4 ,its fattening qualities plumpen the tissues and so raise the lines of the face and gradually obliterate them4 ,clover ,cream3 ,spermaceti1 #a ounce4 ,white wax1 #a ounce4 ,oil sweet almonds1 #e ounces4 ,rose-water1 #a-c_/e ounces4 ,powdered borax1 #bj grains4 ,essence of clover1 #e drops4 ,dissolve the borax in the rose-water and add the essence of clover4 ,melt the white wax1 the spermaceti and the oil of almonds1 using a porcelain kettle1 as tin or iron is injurious to the oils4 ,when melted remove from the heat and add the rose-water 7all at once74 ,then beat quickly with an egg-beater until the mixture is cold and firm4 ,it is impossible for the rose-water to separate from the oils if directions are carefully followed4 ,the recipe given above will fill an eight-ounce jar1 so perhaps one-half the quantity should be tried at first4 ,camphor ,cold ,cream3 ,take one-half ounce each of spermaceti and white wax1 melt and add three and one-fourth ounces of oil of sweet almonds1 then add one-fourth ounce of camphor1 broken into small pieces1 and stir until dissolved4 ,then pour in one and one-half ounces of distilled water in which fifteen grains of borax have been dissolved4 ,stir until well mixed and beginning to thicken1 then add four drops oil of rose1 one drop oil of rose geranium1 one drop oil of ylang-ylang1 two drops tincture of musk1 and two drops tincture of civet4 ,continue to beat until cold4 ,cold ,cream3 ,white wax1 #a_/b ounce4 ,spermaceti1 #a_/b ounce4 ,orange flower water1 #b ounces4 ,almond oil1 #d ounces4 ,melt all together gently and pour into cups to cool4 ,when cold pour off the water1 remelt1 and pour into jars to keep4 ,oatmeal ,lotion3 ,two tablespoonfuls fine oatmeal4 ,boil and strain4 ,when cold add ,one dessertspoonful of wine 7white ,rhine preferred71 and the juice of one lemon4 ,fluff over the face before going to bed1 not wiping it all away4 ,this is excellent for sallow complexion4 ,rose ,toilet ,vinegar3 ,this toilet vinegar is made by taking one ounce of dried rose leaves1 pouring over them half a pint of white wine vinegar1 and letting stand for two weeks4 ,then strain1 throwing rose leaves away1 and add half a pint of rose-water4 ,it can be used either pure or diluted1 and is especially good for an oily skin4 ,lavender ,lotion 7to soften water73 #d ounces of alcohol4 #a ounce of ammonia4 #a dram oil of lavender4 ,add one teaspoonful to two quarts of water4 ,a stringent ,wash3 ,place in a half-pint bottle one ounce of cucumber juice1 half fill bottle with elderflower water1 and add two tablespoonfuls of eau de cologne4 ,shake well and add very slowly one-half ounce simple tincture of benzoin1 shaking the mixture now and then4 ,fill bottle with elderflower water4 ,this is very whitening1 but its best mission is that of making large1 open pores less noticeable and disfiguring4 ,cucumber ,milk3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #b ounces4 ,fresh cucumber juice1 #aj ounces4 ,white castile soap1 #a_/d ounce4 ,essence of cucumbers1 #c ounces4 ,tincture of benzoin1 #ch drops4 ,get the juice by slicing the cucumbers1 unpeeled1 boiling in a little water and straining carefully4 ,the essence is made by mixing the juice with equal parts of alcohol4 ,first dissolve the soap in the essence1 add the juice1 then the sweet almond oil very slowly1 and finally the benzoin4 ,shake well for half an hour if possible4 ,this is a most effective remedy for tan and sunburn4 ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,hair ,her luxuriant hair--it was like the sweep of a swift wing in visions4--,willis4 ,pretty hair can redeem a whole host of irregular features4 ,with little waves and kinks1 and clinging1 cunning tendrils that lie close to the temples1 a crown of glory will transform an ordinarily plain woman into one passably good to look upon4 ,if you doubt this1 just create a mental picture of yourself in the last stages of a shampoo6 ,isn't it awful8 ,the damp1 straight locks hanging in one's eyes1 and the long1 fluffy strands1 that aren't fluffy at all but as unwavy as a shower bouquet of macaroni1 and the tag ends and whisps sprouting out here and there like a box full of paint brushes six ways for ,sundays--well1 one is always mentally thankful at such times that one's dearest and best isn't anywhere around to behold the horrible sight4 ,but after awhile the long1 damp tresses are patted and fussed over until they are dry1 and then they're combed out and curled up and kinked and twisted1 and1 oh1 my countrymen1 what a change is there6 ,the harsh lines of the mouth are softened1 the eyes look bright and pretty1 the complexion comes out in all its sweetness like the glorious rainbow of a week ago4 ,it makes all the difference in the world6 ,but of course you will straightway exclaim3 ,that's all right to say about those lucky girls who have nice long tresses1 but how about us poor mortals whose 'crown' consists of eighteen hairs of eighteen different lengths1 and all of them falling out as fast as they can8 ,to be sure1 conditions do--once in a while--alter cases4 ,but ,i claim1 and always will claim--till the day comes when beauty matters won't matter at all--that every woman can have pretty hair if she will take the time and use the good1 uncommon sense which seems necessary to acquire it4 ,you know1 and ,i know1 and every other woman knows1 that women treat their hair as they treat their watches--to unpardonable abuse4 ,of course1 one's hair isn't dropped on the sidewalk or prodded with stickpins until the mainspring breaks1 but it is subjected to even deeper and more trying insults4 ,one night1 when the little woman is in a real good1 amiable mood1 the tresses are carefully taken down1 brushed1 doctored with a nice smelly tonic1 patted caressingly and gently plaited in nice little braids4 ,the next night it is crimped until each individual hair has acute curvature of the spine2 then it is burned off in chunks and triangles and squares2 it is yanked out by the handfuls1 it is wadded and twisted and tugged at and built up into an ,eiffel tower1 and--after a few hours of such torture--the little woman takes out the sixty odd hairpins1 shakes it loose1 gets every hair into a three-ply tangle of its own1 and then hops into bed6 ,when she gets up in the morning she pulls out and combs out more hair than she can make grow in after seven months' careful treatment4 ,i tell you that is the one great trouble with women4 ,they will not stick to one particular method4 ,if they feel like fussing and coddling they will1 but if they're tired or cross or in a hurry to get to sleep1 well1 they just let their hair take care of itself4 ,one's tresses need regular care just as do plants or babies or people4 ,make up your mind that you have hit upon the best way to treat your hair and then stick to it1 no matter whether school keeps or not4 ,to disentangle the hair use only a coarse comb1 being sure that every tooth is smooth and firm1 so that it will not tear or split the silky fibers4 ,the fine comb is a thing of horror1 and has no place upon the dressing-table4 ,it irritates the scalp1 bringing forth a prosperity year crop of dandruff and attendant unhappiness4 ,added to this1 it splits the hair shafts and injures the roots4 ,brushing the hair is sadly overestimated4 ,a dozen or two strong strokes each night will remove the day's dust and dirt1 will promote circulation and sweep out flaky matter4 ,the brushing must be done firmly but gently1 and not with the violent methods of a carpet sweeping machine4 ,really1 it is simply appalling the way some women dress their hair4 ,a few tugs and yanks with a comb of uneven1 unsmooth teeth1 a scattering brushing back of scolding locks1 some singes here and there with a red-hot curling iron1 a twist1 a roll1 a pat and the application of a dozen hairpins1 and the hairdressing for the day is done4 ,instead1 the comb should be used with gentleness1 not dug into the scalp1 as is the practice of some mistaken beskirted mortals4 ,there is an old saying to this effect3 ,wash the scalp1 but not the hair2 comb the hair1 but not the scalp1 which saying1 ,i leave to you1 is good enough to paste in one's hat--or rather on the back of one's hair brush4 ,after the brushing each night it is an excellent plan to part the hair into small strands and wipe off with a cloth slightly moistened4 ,this is a sort of sponge bath which tones and invigorates the growth4 ,combs should never be washed1 but cleaned with a stout thread4 ,brushes1 however1 must have frequent washings in warm ammonia water1 taking care to keep the backs dry4 ,they should never be put in the sunlight when wet1 but left to dry in an open window4 ,curling irons certainly do heaps of damage4 ,any woman who has ever found herself suddenly bereft of a nice fluffy bang1 and in its place a stubby little burned-off fringe1 will say that this is true1 while those numerous hair-crimping girls who have known the humiliating and painful experience of having a hot curling iron do frolics down their backs can add startling testimony1 and1 what is more1 show disfiguring scars as proof4 ,if the iron is used carefully and at proper heat1 the hair is not injured4 ,but certain it is that when the iron is smoking-hot it kills the life and lovely texture of the hair4 ,besides1 how very ugly and unkempt those burned little ends look6 ,it was surely not of such that ,pope wrote3 ,fair tresses man's imperial race ensnare1 ,and beauty draws us with a single hair4 ,soft papers in which the short locks are wound is a good method for the girl who singes her top-knot every time she tries to curl a few little tendrils4 ,kid curlers are all right1 providing the hair does not become entangled in the small ends1 and so have to be torn when the hair is taken down4 ,there is a certain secret in the hair-curling process which is too intangible for written description4 ,the hair must not be wound tightly and the effect must be loose1 fluffy and natural4 ,the great necessity for keeping the hair perfectly trimmed is to rid it of the split ends1 for hair cannot be nice under such conditions4 ,when the nourishment within each hair shaft does not extend the full length1 then the hair cracks into several finer hairs1 and one of these perhaps resumes the growth4 ,that leaves a rough1 bad shaft4 ,the best way to keep the hair clipped properly is to twist it in rolls and to singe off all the little ends that stick out4 ,it is almost impossible to state positively how often the hair should be shampooed4 ,oily hair needs a thorough washing every two weeks1 while drier tresses should not be given a bath oftener than once a month4 ,half the reason for falling hair1 or hair that seems never to grow1 is caused by improper shampooing4 ,the scalp must be kept scrupulously clean4 ,and ,i doubt very much whether the soap and soiled water can be thoroughly rinsed out without the use of running water1 the bath spray being the most convenient means of getting this4 ,how often1 after washing one's hair1 one finds a white1 sticky substance clinging to the teeth of the comb6 ,this should never be1 and the hair must be continually washed until it is fluffy and soft and absolutely without any suggestion of the shampoo4 ,when the hair is very oily a dessertspoonful of ammonia and a pinch of borax should be added to two quarts of warm water4 ,this will soften the water and make the soap more easily rinsed out of the hair4 ,the liquid verbena soap makes a delightful shampoo4 ,recipe can be found at the end of this chapter4 ,when shampooing1 rub the lather through the strands gently1 and with the finger tips remove all the little particles of dust and dandruff which may be clinging to the scalp4 ,and may ,i gently suggest that you do not go at the task as if you were scrubbing a grease spot out of a rug8 ,you must neither dig the scalp with your nails nor wring out your hair as you would a wash-rag4 ,try not to get your hair into a more mussed-up and tangled condition than is absolutely necessary4 ,after using the bath spray liberally dry with warm towels1 then--if possible--get some one to vigorously massage the scalp4 ,this will almost invariably prevent one from taking cold4 ,never begin combing out your locks until they are nearly dry4 ,a sun bath of twenty minutes is a good tonic4 ,occasionally an egg shampoo is more beneficial than the usual one of soap4 ,this is especially true when one has just recovered from a fever or when one's scalp is in an unhealthy condition or afflicted with dandruff4 ,the rosemary formula is very effective4 ,dandruff is nearly always the result of neglect4 ,if the scalp is washed as frequently as it should be1 dandruff is not so likely to accumulate1 although it is a perfectly natural formation4 ,when the hair is excessively oily or the scalp unusually crowded with dandruff1 the weekly shampoo should not be neglected4 ,blond hair should always be washed with the yolk of an egg1 as that will make it keep its golden tints4 ,mixing the egg with a pinch of borax and a pint of warm water is a good plan4 ,hair dyeing is one of the mistakes of unwise femininity4 ,all dyes containing either mercury or lead are very dangerous4 ,but why should women dye their hair8 ,goodness only knows4 ,one might as well ask why women fib about their age1 or why women shop three hours just to buy a pair of dress shields4 ,there are some questions of life which we are destined never to solve4 ,there is nothing lovelier than white hair4 ,combine with it a fine complexion and a pair of animated brown eyes and you have as picturesque a beauty as ever awakened emotions in the heart of man4 ,but1 nevertheless1 women moan and wail over every stray gray hair4 ,they go off downtown and proceed to lug home a cartload of mysterious bottles which they keep religiously away from hubby's investigating eye4 ,i won't tell the result of the experience1 for it is too well known4 ,it is a certain episode through which half the women of forty years have passed--sooner or later4 ,when comes the desire to transform those little threads of silver into deeper shades remember the charming lines of ,bancroft3 ,by common consent gray hairs are a crown of glory1 the only object of respect that can never excite envy4 ,unknown washes1 as well as dyes1 do great mischief4 ,good health1 wholesome food and proper care of the scalp are the three most important essentials toward beautiful and luxuriant hair4 ,there are some simple lotions1 harmless and easily prepared1 which will assist the growth and nourish the roots4 ,,dressing ,,the ,,hair4 ,it has always been a double-turreted wonder to me why romancers are forever harping about heroines with tresses in artistic disarray4 ,all the tresses in such condition that ,i have ever gazed upon have looked most slovenly and ofttimes positively waggish4 ,how any one can think that a girl with a tangled braid hanging down her back1 a little wad over one ear1 a ragged1 jagged fringe edging its way into her eyes and half a dozen little wisps standing out here and there in haystack fashion--how one can even fancy that such a head as that is pretty is more than ,i can explain4 ,clothes may make the man1 but rational hairdressing goes a pretty long way toward making the woman4 ,observe my lady in curl-papers and my lady togged up for a dinner party4 ,comment is unnecessary1 for you have all seen her--or yourselves1 which is quite the same thing4 ,those fortunate women to whom straight hair is becoming should never indulge in curls4 ,there is nothing prettier than hair drawn loosely away from the face4 ,it leaves displayed those lovely lines on the temples about which artists and poets go mad4 ,as to the style of dressing one's hair1 that must be left solely to one's taste4 ,if the lines of the head1 the shape of the face and the hair itself are studied a bit the solution of the most becoming coiffure is very easily solved4 ,a head that looks like a wax image in a hairdresser's window is certainly anything but pretty4 ,neither is it artistic1 for the correctly crimped and waved side-locks are too mechanically planned to look at all natural4 ,to nearly all women the plainer the mode of hairdressing the more becoming it is4 ,that does not mean that you should comb your hair straight back and wad it into a funny little bump4 ,quite the contrary4 ,comb it back if you will1 but have the coil loose and graceful4 ,it is very bad for the hair either to be pulled back tightly or to be closely arranged4 ,ventilation is necessary1 and1 by the way1 caressing and smoothing the hair with the fingers is a good tonic for its growth and beauty4 ,a few loose short curls about the face seem necessary to the good looks of the majority of women1 but the heavy bang was shelved years ago4 ,wasn't it hideous8 ,but perhaps you are too young to remember4 ,get out the family album1 then1 and see for yourself4 ,illustration3 ,,mrs4 ,,john ,,jacob ,,astor ,there are certain rules for hairdressing that were just as good in ,eve's hairpinless age as they will be a hundred years hence4 ,by keeping these rules in mind you can make a picture or a cartoon of yourself1 just as you wish4 ,the one thing to remember is that the lines and proportions of the face must be carefully considered and a mode of hairdressing adopted which will lessen and not exaggerate those lines and proportions4 ,be alert to your defects1 and do not forget that what may be essentially appropriate for one woman will be dismally inappropriate for another4 ,suppose a woman has a square1 heavy jaw4 ,she is just the one who flings defiance at prevailing fashions and clings to the dear old straight bangs deep over her eyes4 ,the heavy chin makes a straight line1 the heavy fringe makes another1 and the result is that her face is as perfectly square as rules and measurements could make it4 ,let this deluded lady shake herself together and mend her ways4 ,by making the top of her head appear wider the broad jaws will--according to all laws of reasoning--seem to be narrower4 ,a few dainty puffs towering up prettily and a soft1 fluffy fringe left flying out over the ears will not only add grace to the forehead but lighten the heaviness of the lower part of the face4 ,a bow of ribbon or any other perky little headdress will detract from the straight cross lines4 ,then there is the woman with the sharp chin1 the woman of the wedge-shaped face4 ,she invariably wears her hair over her ears and so elongates the ,v lines of her chin4 ,by arranging the hair close to the sides of her head and putting it in a soft low coil on the top a much more pleasing effect can be got4 ,the same rule for the heavy-chinned woman applies to the chubby1 fat-faced feminine mortal4 ,the roly-poly visage looks less roly-poly when the front hair is drawn back and up in pompadour style and the long tresses piled into a nice little tower4 ,the pompadour mode of hairdressing also holds good with the girl whose eyes are set too high4 ,this helps along the old-time idea that the eyes of a woman should be in the middle of her head--that is1 that they must be set midway between the bottom of the chin and the top of the hair4 ,for the women with eyes set too low an exactly opposite arrangement should be adopted4 ,instead of drawing the hair away from the face1 bring it down to it4 ,part the hair and let it come low on the temples and brow4 ,i have never seen anything or anybody look much funnier than does a woman with a sharp-pointed nose and a pysche knot4 ,the nose bumps out in the front and the wad of hair sticks out in the back with a similarity that is positively convulsing to any one with half an eye for the humorous4 ,it gives one an idiotic longing to take a measuring rule and find out the exact distance from tip to tip4 ,another waggish picture is made by the snub-nosed girl with her hair arranged a la ,madonna4 ,these long hirsute lamberquins on either side of her face make the poor little nose appear even smaller1 like unto a wee dab of putty or a diminutive biscuit4 ,don't caricature your facial defects4 ,don't get the lines of your head and face out of drawing4 ,don't twist your hair up after every new fashion that chances to come along4 ,study the contour of your head from every side and then adopt that style of hairdressing which at once brings out the good points and conceals the bad ones4 ,the most becoming coiffure is the one that gives the most artistic balance to the face4 ,what will do for the fat1 dumpy ,miss ,plump will make a human joke out of the lank1 willowy ,miss ,slender4 ,,superfluous ,,hair4 ,if there is one blemish more than another that gnaws out our very heart supports and gives a good hard case of nervous chills1 it is this4 ,what woman can look at another so afflicted without a feeling of deep pity8 ,there is something so masculine and altogether impossible in a bearded lady1 even if she be merely a poor imitation of the real exhibited thing4 ,unless proper means are taken to abolish it1 superfluous hair should be left religiously alone4 ,the more it is pulled out or irritated the lustier and heartier will be the growth that follows4 ,as for cutting it--well6 who does not know what the result is sure to be8 ,a challenging ,kaiser ,william mustache1 maybe1 or perchance a ,herr ,most style of hirsute trimmings4 ,in applying creams of any sort to the face1 it is wisdom to leave the upper lip untouched with the cosmetic1 although one may feel perfectly safe in using home-made emollients which do not contain animal fats4 ,heat1 rubbing and friction are all conducive to the pests1 and such oils and fats as vaseline1 glycerin1 olive oil and mutton tallow or suet should never be used4 ,depilatories likewise should be shunned4 ,the powdered preparations are usually composed either of sulphite of arsenic or caustic lime1 and merely burn the hair off to the surface of the skin4 ,it seems quite impossible for any such powder to kill or dissolve the hair roots without injury4 ,the sticky plasters1 made of galbanum or pitch1 and which are known as heroic measures1 are equally undesirable1 since they are not permanent cures any more than the depilatory powders4 ,the worst feature of these cures is that for every hair pulled out or burnt off a coarser one takes its place1 and for every tiny1 downy growth a fully developed hair appears4 ,of course1 the plaster removes this soft lanuginous growth with the hardier one1 and for that reason should be left severely alone4 ,the tweezers are therefore less objectionable than the plaster1 but this is such a painful way of getting happiness that ,i cannot advise it4 ,there is no doubt but that electrolysis is the best cure4 ,the only objection to this is that an incompetent operator will cause her patron considerable pain1 and will also be likely to scar the skin4 ,a dainty little woman who has been an expert in this work for years tells me that it is not at all necessary for the beauty patient to hold the little handles--,i know not the technical term--of the battery1 although this causes a little more careful work on the part of the operator4 ,at the same time1 it makes the operation less painful1 and really not at all hard to endure4 ,the general desire to have the work done quickly causes the scars4 ,if the hairs are picked out here and there and not close together the skin can heal and the rest of the horrors be destroyed at the next sitting4 ,to remove a very prolific growth several seances will be necessary4 ,but the result will be clear1 unscarred skin1 and no future chance of the wee worries coming back to bring heart-hurts and mental agony4 ,to those who have any timidity at all about the electric needle1 there is peroxide of hydrogen and diluted ammonia4 ,use one as a lotion one night and the other the next4 ,this will often prove a permanent cure1 while a better1 less noticeable state is certain4 ,the remedy is one1 however1 that will take time and patience4 ,the superfluous hair will gradually become light-colored and almost white1 and the ammonia will1 if used persistently1 deaden the growth4 ,do not expect the bleach to take effect right away1 for it won't4 ,if the skin is at all irritated rub on pure1 thick cream4 ,,recipes ,,for ,,the ,,hair4 ,liquid ,verbena ,soap3 ,cut in small pieces one-half pound of pure imported castile soap4 ,put in porcelain kettle with two quarts of warm water and dissolve by boiling4 ,when cold it should be of the consistency of rather thin cream2 if thicker1 add more water4 ,stir in one-fourth pint of alcohol and let stand several days in a warm room4 ,all the alkali and impurities will settle to the bottom of the bottle1 leaving the liquid as clear as crystal4 ,pour off carefully1 leaving the residue for kitchen purposes4 ,perfume with a few drops of oil of verbena1 or any scent one may prefer4 ,a small quantity of this used in the shampoo is delightfully cleansing4 ,shampoo for ,dandruff3 ,yolk of one egg4 ,one pint of warm water4 ,one ounce spirits of rosemary4 ,follow with thorough washing with liquid verbena soap4 ,egg ,shampoo3 ,shake the yolk of an egg in a pint of alcohol1 strain and bottle4 ,to a bowl of warm water add two tablespoonfuls of the liquid4 ,dandruff ,cure and ,hair ,tonic3 ,forty-eight grains resorcin4 ,one-fourth ounce glycerine4 ,alcohol sufficient to fill a two-ounce bottle4 ,apply every night to the scalp1 rubbing it in well4 ,this is good for falling hair4 ,lemon ,hair ,wash 7for blond tresses73 ,one ounce salts of tartar4 ,juice of three lemons4 ,one quart of water4 ,apply a cupful to the hair and scalp just before the shampoo4 ,quinine ,tonic for ,oily ,hair3 ,one-half pint alcohol4 ,one-half pint water4 ,thirty grains of quinine4 ,apply every other night1 rubbing into the scalp4 ,hair-curling ,fluid3 ,mix one and one-half drams of gum tragacanth with three ounces of proof spirits and seven ounces of water4 ,perfume with a drop or two of attar of rose4 ,if too thick add a little rose-water4 ,,the ,,hands ,i take thy hand1 this hand1 ,as soft as dove's down1 and as white as it2 ,or ,ethiopia's tooth1 or the fann'd snow1 ,that's bolted by the northern blast twice o'er4 --,shakespeare4 ,pretty hands--like sweet tempers and paragons of husbands--are largely a matter of care and cultivation4 ,much more so1 in fact1 than most of us are aware4 ,while tapering fingers and perfect palms count for considerable1 the general beauty of the hand lies not in its correct outline so much as in the whiteness and velvety softness of the skin and the perfectly trimmed1 well-kept nails4 ,i have seen hands as plump as rotund little butter rolls1 with fingers like wee sausages1 and ,i have also gazed upon long1 slender hands as perfect of form and proportion as any hand ever put into a ,gainsborough masterpiece4 ,and both have been called beautiful4 ,of course1 we all know that the ,gainsborough model is perfection1 but nevertheless we can content ourselves with the knowledge that really ideal hands are as rare as a few other nice things in this world1 and that we can struggle along very well with our good imitations providing we are able to keep them clean and well groomed4 ,the poets have raved their wildest over the beauty of women's hands from the time when ,adam had his first desire to write jingles--if he ever was so silly--to the present day of ,kipling's entrancing verse4 ,shakespeare in his many tributes to the unfortunate young ,juliet spoke of the white wonder of her hands1 and there has probably never lived a versifier who has not1 at one time or another1 gone into paroxysms of poetry over lovely fingers1 and dainty palms1 and all that4 ,and ,i don't wonder1 do you8 for a woman's hand--when it is beautiful--is certainly a most adorable thing4 ,it should be soft and yielding and caressing--with small1 dainty joints1 a satiny surface and carefully manicured nails of shell-pink tint4 ,first of all1 tight sleeves and very tight gloves must be condemned4 ,next1 relaxation and repose are to be cultivated4 ,a beautiful hand that fidgets continually is not to be admired for anything beyond its ceaseless efforts to be doing4 ,ben ,jonson once said3 ,a busy woman is a fearful nuisance1 and it's more than likely that he had in mind some fussy dame whose nervous fingers were everlastingly picking at things and continually on the wiggle4 ,the hand can easily be taught to move gracefully4 ,the ordinary ,delsarte movements of swinging the wrist backward and forward1 of raising the hands high above the head1 and the general exercises for the cultivation of gesture and expression are all good and can bring about the habit of spontaneous relaxation and activity4 ,no gestures at all1 though1 are better than awkward ones4 ,large joints are very unsightly4 ,it is said of the ,countess of ,soissons that she never closed her hands for fear of hardening the joints4 ,funny1 isn't it1 to what extremes those old-time ladies went8 ,and yet the ,nordauites say we are degenerates6 ,of ,mme4 ,crequy it is recorded that she was a woman most resolute1 and in proof of that assertion the chronicler says that if no lackey were within call she opened the doors herself--without fear of blistering her hands6 ,it was the desire for dainty1 delicate white hands that first gave nice little boys the task of trotting after stately dames and carrying my lady's prayerbook or fan4 ,fancy one of those porcelain-like creatures of helplessness hanging onto the strap in a ,state ,street cable car6 ,perish the thought6 ,and what a jolly time ,mme4 ,crequy would have had could she have indulged in a ,christmas shopping scrimmage4 ,after a few tussels with the swing doors that bar our entrance to the big stores1 ,mme4 ,crequy would have blistered her hands to the queen's taste and the poultice stage4 ,there's no chance of a doubt about that4 ,,bathing ,,the ,,hands4 ,with the hands1 as with almost everything else in the strife toward beauty culture1 cleanliness is the first great essential4 ,you cannot keep your hands smooth and pretty without an occasional hard scrubbing4 ,unless the hands are unusually moist naturally1 hot water should not be used4 ,have the bath tepid--just warm enough to be cleansing4 ,say a fond farewell to all highly-scented soaps and bring yourself down to a steady and constant faith in the pure white imported castile4 ,i doubt very much if there is a soap manufactured which can equal this for its harmlessness and purity4 ,the best way is to buy a large bar1 letting it dry thoroughly1 and cutting off small slices as they are needed4 ,never fail to let the soapy water out of the basin and fill again with a clear rinsing bath4 ,when drying be sure that the towel is not coarse or rough1 and that it absorbs every particle of moisture4 ,very gently press back the cuticle around the nail4 ,a little orange-wood stick or a piece of ivory will assist you when the skin is inclined to stick close to the nail4 ,let the hands have their most cleansing bath just before you go to bed1 and then is the time to apply your cold cream or cosmetic jelly1 which--in nearly all cases--is all that is needed to keep the hands soft and nice4 ,wearing gloves at night is very uncomfortable and quite unnecessary4 ,lotions can be put on an hour or so before one goes to bed1 and by that time they are usually pretty well absorbed into the cuticle4 ,if the hands are red use lemon juice1 applying cold cream as soon as the juice is dry4 ,for callous spots rub with pumice stone4 ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,finger ,,nails4 ,there has been a great change in manicuring methods of late4 ,the old steel implements of torture are banished1 and the ivory instruments have long since taken their place4 ,steel should never be put to the fingers1 except to use the scissors when the nails are too long1 or to trim the skin in order to free it from hangnails4 ,the best operators no longer cut away the cuticle about the base of the nail1 and the manicure who does that nowadays is not a student of the ,french method of manicuring1 which supplanted every other some time ago4 ,the same effect--and better1 in fact--is got by simply pressing back the flesh with the end of an ivory or orange-wood instrument4 ,the gouging and snipping1 so irritating to a person of nerves1 is thus avoided4 ,however1 if you only know how1 you can manicure your nails at home and they will look every bit as well as if you trotted downtown and spent half a day and a nice big dollar4 ,fill a china wash basin with a suds of warm water and castile soap4 ,soak the hands for five minutes4 ,with an old soft linen towel push back the skin around the nails4 ,if there are hangnails snip them away carefully4 ,cutting the cuticle at the base of the nail was a barbaric feature of a new science which disappeared when it became more rational and refined4 ,never1 under any circumstances1 must the inside of the nail be scraped with a sharp instrument4 ,another thing to be avoided is the vulgar application of pink nail cosmetics4 ,who has not seen a pretty hand made hideous by nails all gummed up with red paste8 ,oh1 yes1 and claw-like nails6 ,they1 too1 have been called in1 now that progress1 good sense and civilization go marching on at a two-step pace4 ,the nails should be trimmed the same shape as the finger tips1 and left neither too long nor too short4 ,there's a happy medium that is easily discovered1 because of its usefulness1 its convenience1 and its artistic beauty4 ,a too-highly polished surface is also a vulgarity invented by the old-time manicure4 ,a little powder rubbed briskly on the nail with a heavily padded polisher is a great improvement1 but when the nails shine with door-knob brilliancy it's high time to call a halt4 ,as for jagged1 uneven nails--there's no excuse for them4 ,,recipes ,,for ,,the ,,hands4 ,cosmetic ,jelly3 ,take thirty grains of gum tragacanth1 soak in seven ounces of rose-water for two days1 strain through muslin and add one-half ounce each of glycerin and alcohol1 previously mixed4 ,this dries in a moment after application4 ,glycerin ,balsam3 ,white wax1 one-half ounce4 ,spermaceti1 one ounce4 ,oil of sweet almonds1 four and one-half ounces4 ,glycerin1 one and one-half ounces4 ,oil of rose geranium1 eight drops4 ,melt the oils4 ,remove from fire and beat in the glycerin and perfume4 ,stir briskly until cold and white4 ,creme ,duchesse3 ,benzoinated mutton tallow1 three ounces4 ,oil of sweet almonds1 one ounce4 ,glycerin1 two drams4 ,rose-water1 two drams4 ,oil rose geranium1 twenty drops4 ,heat the tallow and oil of almonds in one vessel and the other three ingredients in another4 ,mix the two and stir until cold4 ,on account of the mutton tallow1 which might possibly cause a growth of superfluous hair1 this cream is not desirable as a face cosmetic4 ,the benzoinated mutton tallow can be made by taking one-half pound of the tallow and one-half ounce of the benzoin1 and keeping at a high temperature until the alcohol has completely evaporated4 ,strain through muslin4 ,almond ,meal3 ,orris root in fine powder1 four ounces4 ,wheat flour1 four ounces4 ,white castile soap1 powdered1 one ounce4 ,powdered borax1 one ounce4 ,oil of bitter almonds1 ten drops4 ,oil of bergamot1 one fluid dram4 ,tincture of musk1 one-half fluid dram4 ,mix well and pass through a sieve4 ,to make the hands soft3 ,take one quart of warm water1 and in it soak one-half pound of oatmeal over night1 then strain and add one tablespoonful of lemon juice and one teaspoonful each of olive oil1 rose-water1 cologne1 glycerin and diluted ammonia4 ,rub into the skin three times a day4 ,to plumpen the hands3 ,one-fourth ounce tincture of benzoin1 eight ounces of rose-water1 and four ounces of refined linseed oil4 ,rub in morning and night4 ,this is equally nice for the neck and arms4 ,wash3 ,rose-water1 three ounces4 ,bay rum1 #b ounces4 ,glycerin1 one-half ounce4 ,borax1 one-half ounce4 ,amandine3 ,blanched bitter almonds1 three and one-half ounces4 ,powdered orris root1 three-fourths ounce4 ,powdered white castile soap1 three-fourths ounce4 ,glycerite of starch1 one and three-fourths ounces4 ,clarified honey1 one ounce4 ,oil of lavender flowers1 one-half dram4 ,oil of bergamot1 one-half dram4 ,oil of bitter almonds1 four drops4 ,beat the blanched almonds with a small quantity of water to a smooth paste1 add the other ingredients1 and mix intimately4 ,a solution of cochineal will color it4 ,,the ,,eyes ,tell me1 sweet eyes1 from what divinest star did ye drink in your liquid melancholy8--,bulwer ,lytton4 ,you would think1 wouldn't you1 that women would be good to themselves8 ,but they aren't4 ,not a bit of it6 ,they abuse their complexions with cosmetics as deadly as ,mrs4 ,youngwife's first plum pudding4 ,they touch up their tresses with acids terrific enough to remove the spots of a leopard4 ,they paddle around in the rain like ducks in petticoats and overshoes1 and then sit down and chat with the woman next door for a whole hour1 so that the damp skirts can more properly inaugurate a horrible cold that will settle down and stay for six weeks or more4 ,and their eyes--but that's a story in itself4 ,an oculist once said that every dot in a woman's veil was worth #e to the gentlemen of his profession4 ,the eye is being constantly strained to avoid these obstacles in its way1 and1 of course1 it is weakened and tortured4 ,think of a woman paying #a4ej for something that will1 in time1 destroy her eyesight just as sure as fate6 ,i leave it to you if she's not a ninny8 ,but women do these things in spite of everything--except when the overworked eyes begin to pain1 and then they're glad enough to do almost anything for quick relief4 ,to keep one's eyes in good1 healthy condition1 rigid laws must be laid down and carried out1 though the heavens fall and the floods descend and everything gets up and floats out into ,lake ,michigan4 ,you must not read in bed1 and you must kiss good-by to that becoming black veil of many dots and spots4 ,when you crawl out of bed in the morning do not dig your fists into your eyes and rub and rub until1 when at last you do open those sleepy windows of the soul1 there is two of everything in the room1 and big black spots are whizzing through the air4 ,pressure on the eyeball flattens the lens of the eye1 and is sure to produce myopia1 or shortsightedness4 ,if the eyes are not inflamed at all they should be washed every morning in moderately cold water4 ,in case of inflammation an application of hot water and milk in equal parts will be found most beneficial4 ,dry with a piece of old1 soft linen1 being sure to wipe inward toward the nose so as not to issue invitations to those horrors of womankind--crow's feet6 ,great care should be taken to keep all foreign substances1 especially soap and other irritants1 from the delicate skin of the lids1 and particularly from the still more sensitive eyeballs4 ,gaslight brings direful havoc to good eyes1 especially when the flame is in a mood to flicker and splutter1 as gas sometimes does4 ,take a faint1 wavering light and a piece of embroidery and you have as fine a recipe for premature blindness as can be unearthed in a month of ,sundays4 ,sewing in the twilight is equally disastrous1 as is the habit of facing the light when writing or reading4 ,few women realize the great need of resting the eyes occasionally1 and the unhappy result of trying them to the utmost limit4 ,the very moment that the eyeballs ache work should be suspended1 no matter how necessary or urgent4 ,rose-water and plantain in equal parts makes a refreshing wash1 and elderberry water is said to be good when there is a disagreeable itching4 ,if the eyes are hot and watery use hot water which has been poured over rose leaves4 ,witch hazel1 that good old stand-by1 is always refreshing and is especially good when combined with camphor water4 ,it is best when applied at night and allowed to dry on the lids4 ,weak tea1 which is the eye tonic of our grandmothers1 is also splendid4 ,a lotion that has been tried over and over again and found excellent for tired and inflamed eyes1 is made by rubbing one teaspoonful of pulverized boracic acid in fifteen drops of spirits of camphor and pouring over this two-thirds of a cup of hot water4 ,stir and strain1 and use as needed4 ,to brighten the eyes1 steep good green tea in rose-water1 soak bits of absorbent cotton in the liquid1 and bind on at night4 ,for granulated lids--and what is more maddening and painful8--make an alum paste4 ,this is done by rubbing a small piece of alum into the white of an egg until a curd is formed4 ,apply to the lids upon retiring at night1 tying a piece of soft linen over the eyes4 ,so many girls say that they look a fright in eyeglasses1 and ask if they should wear them4 ,most certainly if the eyes are worn out and failing4 ,an oculist of the very best reputation should be consulted4 ,the fee does not exceed that of the quack1 and the eyes are tested with greater thoroughness4 ,glasses must be chosen with the utmost care1 as ill-fitting lenses can make a great deal of trouble4 ,they are worse than no glasses at all4 ,then1 after eyeglasses are put on1 they must be changed now and then to suit the changing conditions of the sight4 ,if the eyes are not in a bad state1 wearing spectacles for a few months may strengthen them so that the glasses can be discarded4 ,also1 if the oculist knows his business as he should1 he can give you much valuable information concerning the care of your eyes4 ,,the ,,girl ,,who ,,cries4 ,now1 about the girl who weeps4 ,you don't see many of her these days4 ,women used to think that big1 sad eyes1 just ready to send forth a ,november gale of tears1 was quite the proper thing1 especially if there chanced to be a man about4 ,women of experience--and who should really know--say that tears are worn-out weapons for bringing masculinity to time4 ,we later-day mortals go in for everything that bespeaks strength and backbone and a certain amount of strong-mindedness4 ,when little wifey wife begins to snivel nowadays1 ,mr4 ,husband doesn't upset the furniture in his efforts to kiss away the tears4 ,he is quite likely to straighten up and say3 ,oh1 brace up1 ,pauline6 or else1 ,go look in the glass1 my love1 and see what a beautifully tinted nose you have6 ,yes1 these are unromantic days1 and there's no mistaking that fact6 ,there's little room for the weepy1 wailing woman whose big1 inflated ambition is to dampen stunning neckties and deluge nicely laundered shirt-fronts4 ,of course1 women must have their good1 comfortable cries once in a while1 but if they're wise they will retire to their own rooms and have it out by themselves4 ,this is not quite so satisfactory as the old-time methods1 for the reason that loneliness does not inspire an exhibition of woe1 and if one doesn't look out one is apt to forget what one is boo-hooing about4 ,but1 take it all in all1 it's safer and more in keeping with fin de siecle rules and regulations4 ,it used to be that a man would say3 ,well1 it breaks me all up to see a woman cry4 ,i just can't stand it6 ,but now it's different4 ,instead1 he remarks wearily3 ,anything but a yowling woman6 ,the poets have written lots of lovely things about tears4 ,notwithstanding that fact1 there is an old ,german proverb3 ,nothing dries sooner than a tear1 which isn't so bad4 ,and ,byron1 you know1 said that the busy have no time for tears4 ,which1 one must acknowledge1 is quite true when one thinks how everybody is up and hustling these days4 ,they're either wearing themselves down to skin and bone trying to earn a living and to reside in a #fj flat with electric lights and a real back yard1 or else they're gradually killing themselves in an effort to enjoy life and to have a good1 jolly time all around4 ,however1 that's neither here nor there4 ,so let's jog along to more timely topics4 ,,the ,,eyelashes4 ,who hasn't bumped into the woman who is woefully wandering around minus her eyelashes8 ,my dear girls1 you make the mistake of your life when you begin to snip and clip and tinker with those pretty little curtains that fall over your eyes4 ,if eyelashes are cut in infancy they will grow longer1 but when one gets big enough to wear long skirts and to do one's hair up high and wear a little bonnet with jet dofunnies on it1 there's not much of a show for eyelashes being made longer by trimming4 ,touching the lashes with castor oil will increase the growth1 and moistened salt is also good4 ,,the ,,eyebrows4 ,the eyebrows must be kept well brushed1 and by persistent care can be pinched into graceful lines4 ,a heavy eyebrow can be trained with really little effort4 ,the brush should be small and rather stiff and firm4 ,it will at once cleanse and invigorate4 ,i cannot approve of penciled eyebrows4 ,a professional in the make-up art can touch the eyebrows here and there and bring a marvelous change4 ,but for the ordinary amateur it is better left undone4 ,besides1 if coloring is applied1 it is only a short time before the hair will fall out4 ,and then won't you look pretty8 ,eyebrows that meet over the nose are really very disfiguring1 and the cure is so simple that there is no need of this blemish1 providing1 of course1 that one can afford to take the necessary treatment4 ,the electric needle is the only sure and certain cure1 and two sittings will be sufficient to remove them for good and always4 ,be sure that you patronize only the best operator1 as you will surely regret it if you don't4 ,sage tea1 with a few drops of alcohol added1 will darken the eyebrows without injury4 ,cocoanut oil makes an excellent tonic to increase the growth4 ,,the ,,teeth ,some ask'd how pearls did grow1 and where8 ,then spoke ,i to my girl1 ,to part her lips1 and shew me there ,the quarrelets of pearl4 --,herrick4 ,femininity may be heir to many beauty woes1 but ugly teeth is one trouble which is often caused by sheer neglect4 ,how many of us can recall the days of childhood and girlhood without remembering the fibs we told to escape cleaning our teeth8 ,the blessed mothers implored and begged and threatened and fussed1 but we went our way joyful and serene1 making all due preparations for future unhappiness4 ,but when the girl began to think more about her personal appearance1 and less of the frivolities of advanced babyhood--oh1 that we were all back at that jolly time of life6--things were very different4 ,the neglected teeth got good attention then1 but often the mischief had already been done4 ,i trust that the younger readers of this volume on beauty will remember that this is hopelessly true1 and something not to be forgotten--like yesterday's toasted marshmallows or to-day's lesson in political economy4 ,i have heard it said that too much brushing will injure the teeth1 but don't you believe it6 ,the sooner you become accustomed to a moderately stiff brush1 that will do its work well and thoroughly1 the better4 ,all foreign matter must be constantly removed1 else decay will come as sure as fate4 ,a perfect state of cleanliness cannot be unless the teeth have proper and constant attention4 ,by this ,i do not mean that you must cease all other occupations and take up that of eternal scrubbing4 ,simply keep your teeth clean4 ,toothpicks must not be used excessively1 cold water should not be applied--or very hot1 either1 for that matter--and all powders containing gritty substances must be tabooed4 ,it is quite unnecessary for me to add that you must not bite thread or break nuts with your teeth1 for all of us have had this bit of information dinned into our ears since the time when little children should be seen and not heard made life a worry and a care4 ,i must confess1 however1 that ,i have seen women untie knots and do various bits of very remarkable mechanical work in this unique manner4 ,my experience has been so broad in this particular line of observation that the expression biting ten-penny nails has never appeared to me to be much overdrawn4 ,if one seriously desires fine1 beautiful1 white teeth--and who doesn't8--one must treat them well4 ,just before going to bed1 give them a thorough cleaning1 using waxed dental floss to remove any large particles which may be between them4 ,use only a pure powder1 the ingredients of which you know4 ,be sure that all powder is well rinsed away4 ,see that your brush is kept scrupulously clean4 ,upon arising in the morning rinse the mouth with diluted listerine4 ,this makes an excellent wash1 especially when the gums are tender and liable to bleed4 ,brush the teeth with tepid water4 ,after breakfast1 luncheon and dinner1 wash them again1 letting the last cleansing be the most searching and thorough4 ,once in a while it is wisdom to squeeze a little lemon juice onto the brush4 ,this will remove the yellow appearance that often comes1 and will also keep your teeth free from tartar4 ,illustration3 ,,princess ,,henry ,,of ,,pless ,every six months visit your dentist and have your teeth thoroughly examined4 ,the smallest cavities should be filled at once1 and the pain will be less than when these agonizing crevices get so large that you feel that it's a flip-up between going to a dentist or jumping into the lake4 ,i know that most of us women are cowards when it comes to seances in dentist chairs1 but all such things--like house-cleaning and writing letters to folks you don't like1 and entertaining your husband's maiden aunt--all these things are heaps nicer when they're well over with4 ,they are the events which we prefer should ornament the past instead of the future4 ,to ,sweeten the ,breath3 ,alcohol1 twelve ounces4 ,cinnamon1 two and one-half drams4 ,ginger1 one-half dram4 ,essence of peppermint1 one dram4 ,cloves1 one-eighth dram4 ,mix and leave in infusion for two weeks in a tightly covered vessel2 filter and bottle4 ,put one teaspoonful in a glass of water1 and rinse the mouth with this every morning4 ,recipe for violet tooth powder appears in the chapter on perfumes4 ,,bathing ,even from the body's purity1 the mind ,receives a secret sympathetic aid4 --,thomson4 ,the road to beauty has never been better known than it was to the ,greek and ,roman women of centuries ago1 yet they did not begin to have the resources in cosmetic arts that we have now4 ,but they bathed incessantly1 believing that cleanliness and health were the vital points in their endeavors to be lovely4 ,they went in for athletic games to a large degree1 and thereby hangs the secret of well-developed figures and fine1 stately carriage4 ,creamy lotions for the face1 made mostly of almond oil and the oil of cocoanut1 were their complexion solaces4 ,no doubt these beauties of the past centuries had more time than we for their baths and games1 but nevertheless let us make a strong1 stern effort to follow in the wake of their excellent teachings4 ,surely they proved the wisdom of them in their own incomparable beauty4 ,speaking of baths reminds me of ,mme4 ,tallien1 the beautiful ,french woman1 who lived in the time of the first ,napoleon4 ,she went in for baths galore4 ,let me tell you what she did4 ,she gathered together all the strawberries or raspberries that the corner grocery could supply4 ,these were mashed to a pulp and the bathtub filled4 ,in this ,mme4 ,tallien bathed until the idea of milk and perfumed baths appeared to her fancy4 ,there were many absurd and useless fads those days as well as wise beautifying practices--just the same state of affairs as now confronts us4 ,how much more rational than ,mme4 ,tallien's notions were the methods of ,diana of ,poitiers1 who1 history tells us1 was fresh and lovely at sixty-five6 ,she left the berries and things to their rightful place1 the breakfast table1 and each morning took a refreshing bath in a big tub of clear rain-water4 ,there has nothing yet been found1 even in this progressive age of electric elixirs and beautifying compounds1 that can equal this old-time aid to loveliness4 ,with the delightfully convenient bath-rooms1 that even the most ordinary apartment or flat has now1 bathing is not a matter of trouble and bother1 but is1 instead1 an invigorating pleasure4 ,i believe firmly in the need of the daily bath4 ,not the thorough scrubbing1 mind you1 but the quick sponging and the plunge4 ,let the thorough scrubbing be at least twice during the week1 and the five-minute plunges on other days4 ,certain it is that one is much refreshed by the dipping luxury1 and still more certain is the fact that in no other way can the flesh be kept healthy and firm4 ,to those who are robust enough to stand it1 the cold bath is very good1 but ,i would not advise it as a general thing for women4 ,for actual cleansing warm water and pure soap are necessary4 ,the shock of cold water immediately closes the pores1 and they then retain all the impurities that they should cast out4 ,the temperature of the water for the daily tepid bath should be about seventy-five or eighty degrees1 never more than that4 ,whether or not the bath should be taken at night or in the morning is a question which each must decide for herself4 ,while it has often been claimed that a bath at night will quiet the nerves and make one sleep sweetly1 ,i have known many persons who found it an utter impossibility1 as it caused them to be restless and wide-awake4 ,one reason why the bath before going to bed is desirable is that a soothing emollient can be applied to the face1 neck and hands1 and thus will the skin be whitened and beautified4 ,after a warm plunge the pores of the skin are opened and in excellent condition to absorb a good skin food or a pleasant cream4 ,bath bags are simply luxuries4 ,they are pleasant ones1 to be sure1 but they should never take the place of the flesh brush4 ,it is best to follow the scrubbing with a gentle washing with a bath bag1 for the almond meal and the orris root will give a charming1 velvety appearance to the skin4 ,they should never be used a second time1 as the bran frequently becomes sour after a drying4 ,so1 if you are of an economical turn of mind1 you will make your bath bags very small1 just large enough to serve for one beauty bath4 ,a little starch thrown into the bath will sometimes whiten the skin4 ,salt is not cleansing at all1 but is very invigorating and a pleasant tonic if one is worn out and languid4 ,turkish baths are splendid complexion-makers1 but must not be indulged in too frequently4 ,if the skin is dry and feverish1 a dry bath--or massage--with oil of sweet almonds will promote a healthy skin and bring about good circulation4 ,constant bathing is the best remedy for excessive perspiration4 ,but this is not really effective unless a little benzoin is added to the water1 and the armpits well dried1 and dusted with powder afterward4 ,a good bathing powder for this purpose is made of two and one-half drams of camphor1 four ounces of orris root and sixteen ounces of starch4 ,reduce to a fine powder and tie in coarse muslin bags4 ,remember that a coarse complexion1 with black1 disfiguring1 open pores1 can be almost entirely cured by keeping the pores of the body free from sebaceous matter4 ,have the bathtub carefully scoured each day1 as the oils and dust washed from the body invariably collect on the sides just where the water reached4 ,for the thorough cleansing have the tub half filled with warm water4 ,use a coarse rag1 a bath brush and large1 coarse towels4 ,before stepping into the water wash the face and neck well with castile soap and a camel's-hair brush1 this being particularly necessary when the pores are clogged and acne has formed4 ,rinse thoroughly and dry with gentle pats4 ,when using the brush1 do not forget to let the scrubbing go well down onto the chest1 lest your neck will be bleached white and nice only part of the way4 ,once in the tub1 go over the body briskly with the flesh brush1 using plenty of good soap and not being at all sparing of elbow grease4 ,this scrubbing is very invigorating1 for it exercises the muscles and stirs up one's blood as well4 ,after the scrubbing use the bath spray1 letting the water get gradually chilled4 ,the drying should be brisk and quick1 and a warm robe of some sort must be donned while the hair is being combed for the night1 the teeth brushed and the face anointed with a pure home-made cosmetic4 ,then go to bed4 ,if you don't find a prettier1 fresher complexion with you next morning1 then ,i'll miss my guess1 and will take up another occupation than that of doling out beauty advice4 ,quireda ,bath ,bags3 ,one pound of fine oatmeal4 ,one-half quart of new clean bran4 ,two-fifths pound powdered orris root4 ,two-fifths pound almond meal4 ,one-fourth pound white castile soap1 dried and powdered4 ,one ounce primrose sachet powder4 ,dipped in tepid water and used as a sponge these bath bags make a velvety lather that softens and whitens the skin in a way that warms the cockles of one's heart4 ,,diet ,good food is the basis of good conduct1 and consequently of happiness2 more divorces are caused by hash than by infidelity4--,hetty ,green4 ,the object of eating is nourishment to build up the nerves1 the muscles1 the blood1 the tissues1 and1 in fact1 the whole body4 ,judging by woman's mad devotion to things she should not eat1 this is a piece of information which has never before been confided to her4 ,let the food be well cooked1 daintily served and delicately flavored--for all that aids digestion with persons of sensibility and refinement--but see to it that the ingredients are wholesome and of the best and freshest qualities4 ,a fifteen-cent lunch at one of the tearooms1 where dishes are prepared with some idea of the rules of hygiene1 is much better than a twenty-five-cent course dinner at a cheap restaurant4 ,this is a hint for the business girl who lunches downtown4 ,ripe fruits1 served upon green leaves1 are always appetizing1 even if there is nothing more than toast or rolls to go with them4 ,cereals1 such as rice1 barley or hominy 7they must be steamed for hours71 served with rich cream1 make ideal luncheons4 ,a baked apple1 a bit of rice pudding1 or a custard--they1 too1 are worth the while and the price4 ,eggs1 either boiled or carefully scrambled1 or made into an omelet1 flavored with a dash of parsley1 and chops or fish delicately broiled1 are substantial viands4 ,soups or broths1 breads1 fruits and an occasional salad make desirable luncheons4 ,a noonday meal of creamed potatoes and green peas is not to be despised1 and it's a godsend to the poor stomach that has been heroically tussling with cocoanut pudding1 fruit cake and chocolate rich enough to own a castle in ,europe4 ,such dishes as ,italian spaghetti1 with tomato sauce and ,parmesan cheese1 or celery or cress salad1 with no other dressing than the best olive oil and a teaspoonful of vinegar1 will do very well4 ,there is no economy in buying badly cooked luncheons4 ,seek quality1 not quantity1 and1 so far as health and good looks go1 you'll find yourself getting along famously4 ,rich foods1 especially pastries1 can bring forth an array of facial eruptions that is positively maddening to the poor victim4 ,ice cream soda1 too1 deranges the stomach and creates all sorts of disagreeable disturbances4 ,hot bread and rolls1 indulged in to an appalling extent in southern households1 can do more real damage to a good1 fair skin than all the winds and wintry blasts that ever shook chimneys or swept friskily around corners and alleyways4 ,overeating not only brings indigestion and creepy dreams1 but invariably makes the complexion coarse1 high-colored and overruddy4 ,that does not mean that one should nibble at things and not demolish a good square meal4 ,eating should be understood--rules laid down and religiously carried out4 ,usually hygienic dishes and health foods comprise a complete list of one's special horrors4 ,most girls who have tried them say so4 ,but just the same1 there are dozens--yes1 hundreds--of nutritious viands that are decidedly more palatable and appetizing than the sweets and indigestible doughy nothings that not only make of you a physical wreck but set you to wishing most heartily that the man who invented mirrors had died of the measles in his early infancy4 ,rice is a good old stand-by as a builder-up of a run-down constitution4 ,but you don't like it8 ,well1 then1 stew it with chicken sometime and you will soon discover what great possibilities are in this despised grain4 ,oatmeal1 as it is usually cooked1 is a thing of horror1 to be shunned and avoided and run away from4 ,but oatmeal left to slowly simmer for a full hour1 and served half liquid1 fluffed over with a bit of powdered sugar and covered with rich cream1 is fit for a queen--most especially if the royal lady is ambitious for a fair visage with sweet1 soft skin and cheeks just touched with the crimson of health4 ,a thick porterhouse steak1 broiled quickly and well seasoned with salt1 pepper and butter1 or rare little chops of lamb1 are always excellent tonics1 as well as complexion tinters4 ,very often a lack of beauty is nothing more than a lack of proper nourishment4 ,the best cure in the world for a haggard1 wan1 white face is a proper understanding of good foods4 ,sometimes a tonic of iron is needed to brace the wearied physical state4 ,cod liver oil1 which is so very disagreeable to most people1 is the sure cure for the girl whose extreme slenderness causes her to lie awake nights to fret and worry4 ,but when the oil is prepared with malt it is even better1 and also less trying to swallow4 ,a combination of malt and hypo-phosphates is excellent too1 and will bring back the fire of energy to the eye1 and the roses to the cheeks4 ,a dessertspoonful taken before meals will stimulate and strengthen1 and get the tired body into a better state to resist the wear and tear of ill health or overwork4 ,one beautiful woman of my acquaintance declares that the secret of her radiant looks is simply lettuce and olive oil4 ,she eats lettuce summer and winter1 and this queer complexion cure has certainly worked like a charm in her case4 ,she buys the crisp young head lettuce1 being careful to use only the inner leaves4 ,over this she pours two tablespoonfuls of the best olive oil and the very slightest dash of vinegar4 ,salt and the least wee bit of sugar finish the salad4 ,the good qualities of lettuce are usually destroyed by rich1 mustardy dressings1 that breed acute dyspepsia and desperate despair over good looks4 ,but olive oil and lettuce is as good a combination for rugged health and a fair face as one can find in a year's search from ,cape ,horn to the ,yukon4 ,others besides the lovely lady of whom ,i speak have found it so4 ,the secret1 though1 is1 ,i fancy1 in the olive oil1 which is an excellent aperient4 ,a complexion-destroying habit is that of eating late lunches just before going to bed4 ,an apple or an orange is a benefit--as is also plenty of cold1 distilled water--but when it comes to gnawing chicken bones1 devouring big slabs of rich cake or finishing up a dish of leftover salad1 then is the time that kind relatives or guardians should step in1 say a word and take a hand4 ,the girl should be saved from herself at almost any expense4 ,fruit is a panacea for many complexion ills4 ,what a pity1 then1 that blind womankind persists in dabbing things on her nose instead of putting healthful1 purifying beauty food into her stomach4 ,there is no reason in the world why fruit should be considered a luxury4 ,it should be used as a staple article of diet4 ,surely that must have been the original intention4 ,but alas1 how many housewives will pay forty cents for a can of lobster that will upset stomachs1 frazzle pleasant tempers1 cause all sorts of complexion horrors and bring a perfect comet trail of nightmares and dyspepsia6 ,and these same women will wrap themselves in a sanctimonious mantle of economy when the woman next door pays the same sum for a dozen great juicy oranges4 ,grapes and apples are among the most nutritious fruits1 and there is nothing in the world so good for a skin of oily surface or yellow hue as a grape diet4 ,besides1 grapes are extremely appetizing1 are very easily digested and are sure to agree with even the most delicate stomach4 ,ripe peaches have nearly all the merits of the grape1 and1 if in proper condition1 are also quite unlikely to bring about indigestion or stomach disorders4 ,there has never yet been concocted a better spring tonic than strawberries4 ,the reason why they are particularly excellent to enrich and purify the blood is because they contain a larger percentage of iron than any other fruit4 ,it is a shame ever to embarrass and humiliate the luscious things by imprisoning them in the indigestible layers of a shortcake4 ,a fluff of pure powdered sugar and a dash of whipped cream and you have a toothsome dish fit for the most finicky god that ever graced ,olympia's pleasant realms4 ,the woman who has a dingy1 muddy skin must pin her faith to oranges1 lemons and limes4 ,these are simply unrivaled as complexion clearers4 ,the juice of the grape fruit is fine1 too4 ,fruits of this class stimulate and make active the digestive organs1 which1 as you probably know1 are the main seat of nearly all complexion ills4 ,a breakfast of oranges and strawberries will do more toward making you a pretty1 wholesome1 healthy woman than almost anything else4 ,to be perfectly wholesome1 fruit with firm flesh1 like plums or apples or cherries1 must be thoroughly masticated4 ,the skin of raw fruit should under no circumstances be eaten4 ,it is covered invariably with multitudes of minute germs which always swarm upon the surface of the fruit and multiply rapidly under favorable conditions of warmth4 ,before eating grapes or cherries all dust and impurities must be removed by careful washing in several waters4 ,but to sum up the entire question of diet1 eat what you know will agree with you1 and choose the blood-making1 nourishing foods4 ,let fruit and vegetables predominate in your meals1 but do not avoid meats entirely4 ,cake is not harmful unless very rich1 but greasy pastries--like pies and tarts and things of that sort--are simply utterly1 hopelessly impossible6 ,fats make the skin oily and coarse1 pastries produce pimples and blackheads faster than you can doctor them away1 and too much sweets will have about the same effect4 ,instead of buying candies1 save your money and acquire a fine complexion along with a bank account4 ,it will pay in the end4 ,,sleep4 ,what a delightful thing rest is6 ,the bed has become a place of luxury to me4 ,i would not exchange it for all the thrones in the world4--,napoleon ,i4 ,if womankind half realized the beauty benefits of plenty of restful1 refreshing sleep1 all femininity would be crawling into bed at sunset4 ,i've often wondered why the great sisterhood that is praying and working and fretting for physical loveliness does not understand that more real help comes from rational1 hygienic living than can be squeezed out of all the cosmetic jars that ever enticed weak feminine hearts4 ,beauty sleep6 ,why1 we've heard of it since the long-ago days when our blessed mothers sung it1 lullaby-fashion1 into our ears6 ,as little girls it brightened the sand-man hour and made us go contentedly to bed4 ,as women it should rightly continue its good work1 and the dear ,lord knows we need it more now than we did then1 for--perhaps--the crow's feet have begun to show their ugly little tracks and the fine complexion of early girlhood is losing its luster and brightness1 and is growing a bit dull and yellowed--like a leaf first touched with the autumn chill4 ,perhaps you won't believe it1 but there are right ways of sleeping and wrong ways as well4 ,the girl who curls up like a shrimp is the one who will be writing to me in a great flurry and worry1 telling me that her shoulders are round1 and that she simply can't make them nice and square as they should be for the new tailor-made that is to transform her into a happy little ,easter girl6 ,the woman who is horrified to find wrinkles appearing like wee birds of omen does not have to tell me that she is a pillow fiend and sleeps with her head half a foot higher than her heels4 ,it stands to reason that a pillow will push the flesh of the face up into little lines4 ,there is no necessity for pillows at all1 and girls don't need them for comfort any more than a little puppy dog needs patent leathers or overshoes4 ,the bed should be hard and perfectly flat1 with springs that do not sag or give and let the poor sleeper roll down in the middle in a jumbled-up heap4 ,a hair mattress is the best for health and comfort1 but others will do nicely if they are only perfectly flat and not too soft4 ,the first thing to do1 then1 is to dispense with the pillow4 ,if this change cannot be accomplished all at once1 then let your pillow be gradually made smaller and smaller until none at all is desired4 ,your sleep will be much better1 and after the habit is once formed a pillow is looked upon with derision4 ,i know foolish mothers who put their children to sleep on pillows as big as a school-girl's love for caramels1 and the poor babies tumble and toss1 and the next morning those mothers dose them for a pain in the tum-tum4 ,alack-a-day6 ,babies don't need pillows--unless it be those little soft cushions of down that are as flat as pancakes4 ,but to return from babies to beauty4 ,if your sleep is restless and you awaken with a dull headache and the feeling of weariness that makes you want to begin the night over again so as to get refreshed1 you may be sure that something is wrong--either you are worried or troubled or are working too hard for your own good4 ,perhaps your digestion is out of order1 or the room is not properly ventilated4 ,it may be any of these things that keep you from getting the rest that is really so very necessary for health and comfort and good looks4 ,heavy bedding is also distressing1 and as good a maker of nightmares as deviled crabs or plum pudding4 ,light blankets make the best covering4 ,let the window be open at top and bottom1 so as to have perfect ventilation4 ,don't eat an indigestible lunch before retiring2 this is the greatest of all beauty follies4 ,lie on the abdomen1 with your hands at your sides4 ,this position will keep your shoulders back1 will give you a good figure and a better carriage4 ,when you have followed these directions and still find that you spend most of the night crawling around over your bed vainly seeking a comfortable and restful spot1 then you can make up your mind that you need a good tonic and a doctor's counsel1 for your nerves or your digestive organs are not as they should be4 ,to sum it all up in a nutshell3 ,you must sleep well1 and you must sleep a great deal if you wish to be the woman beautiful4 ,sitting up late at night will cause grey hair as will nothing else4 ,it makes those dark circles about the eyes1 and causes the windows of the soul1 to lose half their luster and softness and beauty4 ,who ever saw a pretty woman with dull1 lifeless eyes8 ,she wouldn't be pretty were she so afflicted4 ,by sleeping properly1 the body is kept stronger and fresher1 and thus the complexion is benefited greatly4 ,wrinkles do not come so soon1 the skin does not take on that muddy1 yellow hue as it would otherwise1 and cheeks are pink and rosy with that greatest of all rouges--,health4 ,there's a heap of truth in all this4 ,if you do not believe it1 then give up late hours--be they for study or pleasure--and see if the problem won't work itself out nicely with you4 ,i think it will4 ,in fact1 ,i am really quite sure of it4 ,,exercise ,better to hunt in fields for health unbought ,then fee the doctor for a nauseous draught ,the wise for cure on exercise depend2 ,god never made ,his work for man to mend4 --,dryden4 ,it would have done your heart good to see her4 ,she came into the room with the briskness of a ,march flurry of snow4 ,her cheeks were poppy-red1 her eyes sparkled with the mere joy of living4 ,and she chuckled happily as she tucked back the curly scolding locks that were flying about1 all helter-skelter1 like feathers unloosed or fluffy chicks blowing away from the mother wing4 ,isn't it jolly8 she chirped1 as she threw her muff on the floor and made a dive for ,peter ,jackson4 ,peter ,jackson is a cat1 as black as the ace of spades and as pugilistic a feline as ever walked a fence4 ,isn't what jolly8 ,i queried4 ,the weather or your sprightly self8 ,do you know1 you'd make a splendid poster now for some new-fangled cork-soled walking shoe8 ,or perhaps a bearskin ulster for ,klondike wear4 ,i'm sure a feather boa concern would pay a fortune for your picture4 ,i would ,i were an artist man1 with a little brush and a little pencil and a little palette with nice little paint puddles on it---- ,what-in-the-world8 ,here ,i start in to dilate upon the joys of exercise and off you go1 just like a musical top with your buzz-buzz-buzz1 and your incomprehensible talk about little painters and little palettes and little paint puddles4 ,i'm sure it's not a bit nice of you4 ,peter ,jackson was shoved to the floor4 ,but walking is jolly6 she piped1 and ,i've just had the very gloriousest tramp and ,i feel as fine as a--what is it they say8 ,oh1 as fine as a violin--,i--,i mean fiddle4 ,i walked miles and miles--perhaps not quite so far--and the wind was blowing a blue streak right in my face4 ,ugh6 first it made me shiver and creep up into my collar4 ,but bimeby ,i got nice and warmy1 and my cheeks tingled4 ,i felt as if ,i could walk from here to the place where the sun goes down4 ,do you know1 ,i never before realized how much fun it was to take a good tramp4 ,i've half a mind to reform from my role of lazy-bones and walk every day1 whether it snows1 blows1 cyclones1 or turns warm1 and fells us all with sunstrokes and heat prostrations4 ,health is the vital principle of bliss1 and exercise of health1 said ,i1 quoting ,thomson4 ,oh1 well1 and my pretty1 rosy-cheeked guest arose4 ,i must be going4 ,you know how it is when one gets to preaching physical culture and spouting poetry4 ,ta-ta6 and away she went1 like the fleeting memory of last night's dream4 99 99 99 99 99 ,if women paid as much attention to exercise as do men there would not be so many wrinkles and stooped shoulders among the feminine sex1 and old age wouldn't rap on the door ahead of time4 ,the girl who goes in for outdoor sport1 who isn't afraid of walking a block or two1 who loves the cold air and who revels in wheeling and swimming and skating1 is the one who won't be an old woman in appearance while she is still young in years4 ,keep the muscles firm and healthy by exercise4 ,this will not only improve your carriage and add to your general development1 but will aid the digestive organs in their work and keep you animated and cheery4 ,who of us does not know the inspiration of a walk in the open air after a few days spent in the close atmosphere of the house8 ,fresh air is the elixir of life4 ,we can't have too much of it1 and--oh1 my girls--think of the exceeding cheapness of it6 ,it can be got for the asking1 which is more than one can say for the various beauty pomades and lotions that beckon us toward poverty4 ,walking and skating are the best exercises during the winter1 but all kinds of exercises are acceptable1 providing they are gone about in the proper manner4 ,it is easy enough to see why thorough and regular exercise is absolutely necessary to health4 ,we all know--at least1 we all should know--that the general size of the human body depends on muscular development4 ,the same bony frame which makes a slim-jim girl that tips the scales at seventy-five pounds can be padded with good solid flesh until it boasts of a triple chin1 fingers like wee roly-poly puddings1 and a full #bjj pounds in weight4 ,the framework of the body counts little toward size4 ,the muscles are like the various bits of machinery which go to make up a steam engine4 ,in performing their work they produce heat and motion4 ,the fuel which supplies this force is taken into the body as food1 prepared for use in the intestinal tract1 and from there carried by the blood to be stored up in the muscles and various tissues as latent force4 ,through the circulation of the blood the whole body is heated by muscular exercise4 ,it stands to reason that continual exercise of a certain kind will develop certain muscles4 ,for instance1 there's the arm of the blacksmith or the firmly developed legs of the danseuse4 ,the same muscle that grows when used within certain limits will waste away when deprived of proper exercise4 ,in physical culture the object is the symmetrical development of all the muscles1 not one at the expense of the other4 ,so1 for that reason1 don't pin your faith to dumb-bells and ,indian clubs and neglect more necessary exercise4 ,if you do you will in time find yourself possessed of big ,sandow arms that will make the rest of you look as spindle-like as a last year's golden-rod stalk4 ,walking is as good a form of exercise as anything yet discovered4 ,but walking as most girls and women walk won't do you one bit of good4 ,you might just as well spend your time trying to count #gjj backward or while away the hours talking #ahhj fashions with the woman next door1 for all the health or happiness or physical development that you will get out of it4 ,corsets and bands and belts must be done away with4 ,you must have full1 free use of your lungs4 ,then1 don't wear heavy petti-coats that will retard the free movements of your legs and make your hips ache with their tiresome weight4 ,dress warmly but as lightly as possible4 ,above everything else don't stick your fingertips into a muff and waddle along like a little duck in sealskin and purple velvet trimmings4 ,your arms must swing easily at your sides4 ,thus equipped walking should not be a task1 but a great1 big1 lovely joy1 no matter if the frost does nip your nice little nose and make your cheeks feel as if they had been starched1 dried1 ironed and hung on the line to air4 ,english women who come to ,america can tell us a thing or two about long walks4 ,only the other day a pretty ,englishwoman with a complexion like apple blossoms casually divulged the information that a walk of ten or fifteen miles was an old1 old story to her4 ,so1 when ,i say that three miles a day--the three miles ought really to be covered inside an hour--is not a bit too much to give one's muscles the necessary exercise1 ,i hope you won't lean back in your chair and gracefully expire4 ,some of you will gasp1 no doubt1 for a walk of five blocks to a suburban station is usually looked upon as a heroic martyrdom to circumstances and environments4 ,alas1 for woman's fickleness6 ,and alas1 for her playful habit of going to extremes6 ,suppose1 for instance1 that ,polly ,jones says she is going to take a nice long walk every day of her life2 that she knows the bountiful blessings and benefits of a brisk tramp1 and that she will take that tramp in spite of obstacles as big as the ,auditorium or as immense as her longing for a cherry-colored silk petticoat4 ,the first day--and1 mind you1 she has not walked a mile for weeks1 the lazy girl--she covers five miles in an hour and ten minutes4 ,and when she comes home she's such a wreck that the whole family is up in arms in a jiffy1 and whisk out the tomahawks ready for war4 ,that's the end of ,polly ,jones' pedestrian exercises4 ,and ,daisy ,brown4 ,she does quite the same thing1 only not so violently4 ,the first day she walks four miles1 the next two1 and then comes a trip around the corner to get arnica and liniments for her poor1 aching bones4 ,thus also terminates ,daisy's stern resolution to take daily constitutionals4 ,but the wise woman4 ,daisy's and ,polly's methods are not hers4 ,far from it6 ,when she begins to walk for health and beauty she dons loose1 comfortable clothes1 and with swinging arms and head well back1 strides along briskly and easily4 ,her first day's walk is scarcely a mile4 ,the second tramp is longer2 and gradually the distance is increased until the three miles are covered in about fifty minutes4 ,the wise woman does not take her exercise in the afternoon1 but in the morning1 an hour or so after breakfast1 when the day is young and everything seems bright and hopeful and cheery4 ,then it is that the babies are out in their go-carts and carriages1 and the chillens are trooping to school4 ,it's heaps pleasanter than an afternoon walk when one has more of the worries and events of the day on one's mind4 ,illustration3 ,,queen ,,helena ,,of ,,italy ,it is the regularity of exercise--and living1 in fact--that brings the best results4 ,a stated time for baths1 meals1 rests and walks is the proper plan for those fortunate ones who are not rushed into a condition of decrepit antiquity trying to do fourteen different tasks in thirteen small1 limited minutes4 ,some of us1 the very busy ones1 cannot have the necessary rests during the day1 but baths and exercise can usually be arranged and carried out4 ,they should be1 for they are of more vital import than most of us realize4 ,running is splendid exercise1 but we city folk have few opportunities for exhilarating fun of that sort4 ,a woman sprinting for a cable car might quite as well be a trained bear in a pink mosquito netting petticoat for the sensation and giggles she creates4 ,with a bonnet perched over one ear or dangling dizzily from an escaping empire knot she is neither a dignified nor an inspiring picture4 ,so it's quite as well all around to run in one's own room4 ,in fact1 the best way to run is to run in one small spot and not go ahead4 ,that sounds befuddled1 but it is easily explained4 ,get into loose clothes1 throw open the window1 place your hands on your hips and go through the movements of running4 ,it is best to be in stocking feet or light slippers1 else that odious woman in the flat below may knock on the steam pipe as a signal for peace and quiet4 ,after fifteen minutes of mock running take an invigorating1 tepid sponge bath with just a dash of benzoin in the water4 ,after that comes vigorous friction with a rough towel4 ,then take a nap if you can spare the time4 ,of course one must guard against exposure to cold after one is heated by the exertion of exercise4 ,dancing would be one of the best of exercises were it not for the close1 ill-ventilated rooms1 the tight clothes1 the exposed shoulders and the nervous strain which is always on hand at large social affairs4 ,as for skating1 there is nothing better4 ,it makes a woman feel like a new man4 ,i say that quite consciously1 as1 in my opinion1 to feel like a new woman--that poor1 long-ridiculed creature--would be more humiliating than joyful4 ,don't you think so8 ,horseback riding is questionable exercise4 ,the side saddle is apt to increase the tendency to curvature of the spine1 while tight corsets prevent the good that would come to the heart and lungs and digestive organs4 ,swimming is good1 particularly for nervous1 high-strung persons4 ,and the wheel8 ,well1 that best of all exercises--for it is the best when indulged in by the wise woman1 not the crooked-back1 scorching1 silly--is a story in itself4 ,,stooped ,,shoulders ,her grace of motion and of look1 the smooth ,and swimming majesty of step and tread1 ,the symmetry of form and feature1 set ,the soul afloat1 even like delicious airs ,of flute or harp4 --,milman4 ,stooped shoulders is one beauty ill that is wholly unnecessary4 ,any girl with real brains and a little energy and will power can make herself straight and bestow upon herself a good carriage4 ,it is entirely a matter of doing and persevering4 ,most of us know remedies for our small failings1 but how many of us apply them persistently until a cure is brought about8 ,few indeed1 and more's the pity4 ,when starting the reform always bear in mind that the chest must be held upward and outward4 ,when this is done it is not necessary to keep the shoulders back in a forced1 strained position1 and so make little crowfeet in the back of your gown4 ,the benefits of holding the chest thus are more than one--or two1 either1 for that matter4 ,if practiced continually it will strengthen the lungs4 ,it will also develop the chest and neck as no masseure of miracle-working fingers can ever hope to4 ,breathing exercises are also excellent4 ,incorrect positions during sleep cause many stooped shoulders4 ,the big fat pillow of our grandmother's day is the worst kind of a horror4 ,no pillow at all is best1 and after one becomes accustomed to sleeping that way it will be found much more restful and altogether comfortable4 ,the best position for sleep is to lie face downward1 with the arms straight at the sides4 ,of course1 ,i am fully aware that most women sleep curled up like kittens1 but they can change their ways if they will but try4 ,the woman with straight1 good shoulders never carries her arms heaped full of bundles1 for that draws them forward and makes them droop as dismally as an ostrich plume in a blizzard4 ,instead1 the budgets are carried with the arms down at the sides4 ,neither does she clutch the back of her skirt in that bantamlike fashion practiced by the woman of less judgment4 ,the back breadths of her new tailor-made are grasped about six inches from the belt1 and held up just so that they clear the ground4 ,hats worn deep over the eyes are not desirable1 this wise woman also knows1 for however tightly they are pinned to one's back hair1 they are mighty likely to keep one's body at an uncomfortable slant4 ,the plump woman who wears her hose supporters pinned to the front of her corsets seldom knows that the constant pulling of the elastics has a tendency to make her shoulders droop4 ,shoes of high heels and narrow toes are equally bad1 for the wearer is plunged forward in an ungraceful and line-destroying attitude4 ,the low-heeled1 square-toed shoe--that is now in vogue--is the thing to wear1 and blessed be the ,lord for at last bringing womankind to a rational understanding of what she should wear on her much-abused little feet6 ,the tailor-made gown is serviceable as a promoter of good figures1 for usually1 unless one keeps one's shoulders back1 the front of the bodice proceeds to lay wrinkles in itself and so spoil the good effect that women love as they do their pet jelly dishes and their ,dresden teacups4 ,other things to be remembered are3 ,always stand on the front or ball of the foot and keep the knees straight4 ,carry yourself so that a string extended downward from your chest would reach the floor without touching another part of the body4 ,do not push your head forward and do not be in a hurry so that you will waddle along like a little duckling with absolutely no grace or carriage4 ,dress comfortably1 have your clothing well fastened1 and your gown loose enough to give your lungs opportunity for the full expansion that1 for the sake of your health1 they should have4 ,make sofa cushions of your pillows and sleep always face downward1 flat on the mattress4 ,last1 but not least1 don't be a woeful lady and amble along in a disconsolate1 sloppy-weather fashion that is so utterly hopeless that ,i could never set before me the awful task of suggesting a remedy4 ,one of the secrets of happiness and success is cheerfulness4 ,men and women and even babies like cheerful folk1 while they will race their overshoes off trying to get away from the unhappy ones of dismal tales and many worries4 ,be cheerful1 even though the laundress has washed your best handkerchief into a real-lace sieve1 or the rains and snows of ,december have descended upon your best ,sunday bonnet and made a pocket edition of a rag-bag thereof1 or even if the gas range has blown itself and all the kitchen windows into the next block4 ,be cheerful at all hazards6 ,it pays6 ,really it does6 ,,breathing ,the common ingredients of health and long life are1 ,great temp'rance1 open air1 ,easy labor1 little care4 --,sir ,philip ,sidney4 ,among the first lessons that the beauty student must learn is how to breathe properly4 ,i know1 my girls1 that that sounds awfully stupid1 but there are yards and acres of truth in it nevertheless1 and the subject is well worth your while--you can depend upon that4 ,haven't you ever noticed that most of the women who have gone in for vocal culture have round1 pretty waists8 ,almost invariably the singer is a woman of fine figure1 well-poised head1 firmly-set shoulders and easy carriage4 ,and the reason is simple4 ,she has learned from the beginning that she must breathe properly1 that every breath must come from the abdomen and not from the chest1 and that to breathe in that way she must hold up her chin and expand her lungs4 ,we often mistake carriage for fine figure4 ,it is the woman who poises her head well and who keeps her shoulders back that attracts the eye of other women4 ,there is something brisk and energetic and active about her that makes of her a sight good to look upon2 while another woman with perhaps a much better figure will trail about with a down-in-the-mouth air and a slow1 doleful gait that will give one the blues and an absence of appetite for weeks to come4 ,you cannot possibly breathe properly and have your shoulders stooped--at least you cannot make such a combination without a mighty big lot of discomfort4 ,if you breathe as you should you will develop the chest and bust1 give better lines to the shoulders and--unless you are naturally inclined to be plump and rotund--will make your waist become round and slender and pretty4 ,if you doubt this1 try for yourself and see4 ,i wish that ,i could impress my readers with the fact that improper breathing brings many ills4 ,breathing is a highly important function1 and bad breathing not only produces symptoms of consumption1 but makes the waist unduly large4 ,the reason for this is that holding the chest up will keep all the internal organs in their proper places1 and so not allow them to spread the waist in the unsightly way that usually denotes deficient vitality instead of the ,greek health upon which physicians are wont to dilate4 ,good breathing strengthens muscles and makes the flesh firm4 ,the reward is a perfect1 round1 slender figure and a trim waist4 ,begin your breathing lessons in the morning just after getting out of bed1 when you will have no tight skirts or bands to hinder the full expansion of the lungs4 ,raise every window and get all of ,god's blessed air that you can1 and1 above all things1 let not this practice cease when the winds of winter blow as if from ,greenland's icy mountains4 ,the breathing exercise is all the better then4 ,place your hands on your hips and walk slowly across the room1 your chest held upward and outward1 and every breath coming deeply from the abdomen4 ,after three trips you will find yourself pretty well tired out4 ,rest for a few moments and try again4 ,the next morning make the exercises longer1 and as soon as the muscles that hold your chest up become firm and strong there will be little exhaustion4 ,vary the exercise by standing still1 taking as long a breath as possible and holding it for several seconds4 ,this practice1 indulged in for five or ten minutes every day1 is most beneficial4 ,but the main motive in all breathing exercises is to get into the habit of standing straight with the shoulders held back and the chest up4 ,play that you are trying to make your chest creep up and touch your chin4 ,one of the greatest injuries that come from wearing tightly laced corsets is the compression of the ribs4 ,the unyielding steel and buckram will not permit a variation in the waist measure as a deep breath is inhaled or expelled4 ,the proper and healthful corset is the one that expands or contracts with each respiration of its wearer1 and that is why ,i am such an enthusiastic devotee of the corset waist with the elastic bands on either side4 ,it matters not one bit how tight the clothing may be1 so long as it is given elasticity and is yielding4 ,this is absolutely necessary to perfect health and the proper development of a woman's figure4 ,with the breathing capacity increased1 enlargement of the lungs and development of the chest are sure to be the results4 ,but1 be it understood1 please1 that this growth is not the work of a day or a week1 or a month even4 ,however1 if it is continued religiously there will be a difference of five or six1 or even seven1 inches in your chest measure in the course of a year1 to say nothing of the improvement in carriage and figure1 and the health and strength that correct breathing will give4 ,there are a number of things to remember4 ,the first is that one must secure breath control1 the next that the best authorities condemn thoracic or upper chest breathing4 ,keep the chest up and out1 and let the expansion be at the waist line4 ,inhale slowly and smoothly as much air as you can1 swelling out the lower chest at the sides just below the arm pits as the air is drawn in4 ,hold this air five seconds4 ,then exhale it slowly and gradually1 crushing in the ribs gently with the hands as the air goes out4 ,during the exhalation be sure to keep the upper chest still4 ,do not let it sink1 as it will be apt to if not restrained by an effort of the will4 ,exhale again and hold the breath for ten seconds1 then for fifteen seconds1 and finally for twenty seconds4 ,this exercise will do for the first day4 ,increase the power of holding the breath by practicing regularly each day4 ,be careful not to make any motion suddenly4 ,in calisthenics of any kind the more slowly and carefully the exercise is performed the greater will be the benefit4 ,but best of all1 keep in mind that these breathing exercises are not only making you a pretty woman of pretty figure1 but giving you that greatest of all beauty elixirs--health4 ,,massage ,the love of beauty is one of the most firmly implanted qualities of the human mind1 and only those who are mentally deficient fail to appreciate it4 ,from the human standpoint there is no edifice so beautiful as that earthly temple which enshrines the soul4--,dr4 ,cyrus ,edson4 ,massage is as old as the hills4 ,most really good things are1 ,i've found4 ,the ,grecian and ,roman women preserved their wondrous1 wholesome beauty by reveling in luxuriant baths and then undergoing vigorous massage by their stout-armed slaves4 ,massage is a natural alleviator and comfort-giver4 ,the first thing a baby does when he bumps his precious head is to rub the injured spot with his little fist4 ,relief seems to come with friction4 ,if one's temples hurt1 the hands seem to itch and tingle to get to rubbing and smoothing out the aches there4 ,and the reason for it is that friction makes active the nerves and blood vessels and exercises the tired or fretting muscles4 ,massage is exercise4 ,if we were to cease using our arms the muscles would shrink and soon become incapable of movement4 ,the skin outside would1 of course1 be affected by the general warpings of the tissues1 and the result would be everything that is dreadful to the mind feminine--crow's feet1 wrinkles1 sallowness and lack of the tints and colors of health4 ,you who have enjoyed the pleasures of a ,turkish bath must know how new and robust and fresh you feel after the invigorating cleansing and pummeling by a strong and experienced masseuse4 ,we all know about the system of decay and renewing which the skin constantly undergoes4 ,it is much the same way with the muscles4 ,the very tiny cells of which the muscles are composed are continually being repaired4 ,as the wornout particles are rejected the new fiber is created4 ,does it not stand to reason that massage will facilitate this process1 make the flesh firmer1 restore vigor to the muscles and give new life to the entire system8 ,the muscles of the face1 more than those of any other part of the body1 are lazy and torpid4 ,as the troubles of life descend1 the wear and tear of bothersome existence begins to show4 ,the circulation becomes defective1 and this brings flabby tissues and a wrinkled1 sallow skin4 ,then1 oh1 woe6 woe6 ,one feels as if one might just as well be dead and gone as to be trailing through life so afflicted4 ,massage means ,i knead4 ,while the professional masseuse should be well informed concerning the muscles of the face and neck1 the location of the veins and arteries1 and the general formation of the skin1 the little home body who wishes to rub away a few wrinkles or turkey tracks can easily dispense with the acquiring of so much knowledge4 ,with knowing what not to do1 she will get along very well1 although it has always been my opinion that the simplest and most satisfactory way to learn to massage one's own cheeks and brow is to go to a first-class professional for one or two treatments4 ,if you keep your eyes open you will easily learn the simplest and most effective movements4 ,the first thing to remember is that massage will both create and reduce flesh1 according to the treatment given and the time devoted to it4 ,severe rubbing and rolling of the flesh between the fingers will gradually dissolve the fatty tissues4 ,the flesh will then become soft and flabby1 and the skin will be likely to fall into tiny lines unless an astringent wash1 like weak alum water 7used hot71 is applied to tighten and harden it slightly1 and so make the flesh firm4 ,if the massage is continued1 the flabby flesh will also be reduced1 especially when the astringent wash is applied to help the hardening process4 ,when the face is to be plumpened or wrinkles removed1 then rub the skin very gently with a rotary motion1 which is not a mere rubbing but a kneading as well1 and follow with light tapping movements4 ,never roll the flesh between the fingers unless reduction is the object4 ,also1 never massage oftener than once every twenty-four hours1 and then only for fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,so much for the don'ts4 ,before beginning the massage have the face perfectly clean4 ,wash with tepid water and pure castile soap4 ,otherwise the dust and powder are kneaded into the pores and the result is frequently extremely irritating4 ,the reasons for massage are many4 ,it facilitates and stimulates the skin in its continual effort to throw off the tiny flakes of dried1 dead cuticle4 ,it is exercise for the muscles1 and at the same time it inspires a livelier circulation of the blood4 ,it is easy to understand then why massage is so beneficial for the face1 and why it makes a rosy1 healthy complexion4 ,massage alone will remedy many a complexion ill1 for when the muscles are sluggish and torpid1 the tissues weak and flabby1 the circulation as slow as the messenger boys in the funny papers1 and the skin sallow and wrinkled1 all in the world that is needed is a little gentle patting and coddling and rubbing into a less lifeless state4 ,great care must be taken lest the skin become bruised and irritated4 ,for this reason a cream or skin food is used4 ,let me suggest that this emollient be of the good1 pure1 home-made kind1 not the cheap cosmetic which has mutton tallow or lard as a principal foundation4 ,the orange flower skin food 7formula appears in the chapter on the complexion7 is the best formula for this purpose1 as it will1 by absorption1 fatten and build up the impoverished tissues1 and at the same time strengthen1 whiten and soften the skin4 ,mineral oils must never be used4 ,glycerin not only makes the complexion darker and rather yellow1 but it dries the secretions of the skin very rapidly1 and a dry1 harsh surface is the sure result4 ,vaseline--as we should know from its reputation as a hair tonic--will not prove a happiness to one4 ,the skin food should be rubbed in all over the face and far down upon the neck with a firm1 circular movement4 ,when the cream is partially absorbed begin the manipulations1 starting at the forehead4 ,place the thumbs on the temples and in that way hold the skin firm and taut4 ,with the tips of the first and second fingers of both hands rub the lines transversely4 ,if there be wrinkles across the forehead1 rub up and down1 holding the skin tight at the top of the forehead with the first fingers and manipulating with the second and third4 ,another movement which is excellent for wrinkles is to place the first finger of each hand crosswise of the wrinkles about half an inch apart4 ,then push up a little fold4 ,as the left hand finger pushes its way along the wrinkle1 let the right hand one rub up and down1 always keeping the line up into a little hill4 ,in massaging the lines about the eyes the movement should begin by rubbing the eyelid from the nose outward half an inch beyond the end of the eye1 then returning below the eye toward the nose4 ,this will make the massage sweep back crosswise of the crow's feet4 ,another movement is to hold the skin taut and then knead the lines firmly with the first and second fingers of the right hand4 ,if the chin is fleshy and you wish to massage it down to smaller proportions1 you must dissolve the fatty tissues by picking up the flesh between the thumb and forefinger and rolling and rubbing as much as you possibly can without injuring or breaking the skin4 ,then1 in order to keep the flesh from getting flabby the rotund little chin must be bathed in cold water1 in which is a small pinch of alum1 a piece the size of a bean being plenty for a pint of water4 ,this alum bath1 remember1 is only to be applied when you are reducing the carbon or fat4 ,the kneading movement is very beneficial4 ,this is done very gently with the thumb and forefinger only--precisely the motion used in kneading bread4 ,the smoothing manipulation for the wrinkles is probably better explained as an ironing out motion4 ,all lines can stand these two movements4 ,whenever the skin seems particularly dull of color and generally lifeless1 then the patting comes in excellent play4 ,this is merely a gentle tattoo over the entire face4 ,electricity is an excellent accessory to massage--but that is another story4 ,after the massage1 wet a wash cloth in water slightly chilled1 and lay over the face4 ,this will close the pores nicely4 ,dry and apply powder4 ,i trust that my beauty students will easily understand the foregoing--it is certainly a difficult topic to explain lucidly4 ,as ,i said before1 it is a wise plan to go to some one who thoroughly understands the art and let her teach you4 ,while massage can be given at home1 it is more satisfactory if done by a professional whose knowledge of anatomy will assist her toward the best results4 ,,dress ,be plain in dress1 and sober in your diet2 ,in short1 my deary1 kiss me6 and be quiet4 --,lady ,w4 ,montague4 ,the world has its full share of silly women--more's the pity--but there is not one who can hold a candle to the girl who trots about in the cold1 bleak days of winter clad in summery undergarments fit only for the warm atmosphere of a baker's oven in ,august4 ,so long as these exhibitions of utter absurdity continue we cannot consistently harp upon woman's recently acquired good sense in dress4 ,it seems more and more the fad for girls to boast that they have never worn a vulgar outfit of flannel undergarments1 but it is quite observable that these same girls are the very ones who are eternally grunting and groaning and coughing and fussing4 ,and how can they help it8 ,you can't have good health if you keep yourself in a semi-refrigerated state4 ,a sleeveless vest of silk is not sufficient to keep one's body warm1 even though the prettiest bodice in ,christendom and the swellest of coaties cover it4 ,skirts of white muslin1 with pretty frills and lacey trimmings that fall in soft folds and ruffles around one's feet1 are mighty dainty things for the summer girl--but is there a colder sound than that of a starched white petticoat in the dead of winter8 ,bur-r-rr6 it gives one the cold chills to even think of it6 ,who has not beheld the stunningly gowned girl stalking majestically around the shopping district in a little tailor-made jacket topped off with a fur collarette8 ,she tells herself that she is perfectly warm and comfortable1 but you and ,i know better1 my dear1 for we have seen her unhappy efforts to crawl up into this same collarette1 and we have beheld her shivering misery as a good stiff gust of ,january wind sends her flying around a corner4 ,i am a firm believer in the tailor-made gown1 and ,i am of the opinion that style often counts more than real beauty with women of stately carriage and pretty figure4 ,but nevertheless1 ,i believe first in keeping warm and in protecting one's health4 ,the girl in the smart little jacket could well afford to wear a winter coat over it on the coldest days1 and even then she would not swelter from the heat4 ,really1 it is torture for a woman of common sense to go along the shopping district and see her poor1 miserable sisters who let comfort fly to the four winds of heaven while they revel madly in appearances4 ,it's all very well1 my girls1 to look your best4 ,but don't make sacrifices that will injure your health4 ,i'd rather see a woman in a last winter's coat with the seams shiny than look upon a foolish but radiant creature in a bit of a cape that would keep her about as warm as would two good-sized cobwebs stitched together4 ,the first woman would have the advantage of displaying evidence of real brains on the inside of her head4 ,and beauty without brains isn't real beauty at all1 but a sad1 shop-worn1 tear-wringing imitation4 ,it is my opinion that in choosing underclothing for cold weather finely-woven cotton is the best of all4 ,silk is not durable1 and wool1 even of the finest quality1 will often prove irritating4 ,besides1 so many of us spend most of our time in steam-heated homes or offices that woolen garments keep one too warm4 ,the cotton union suit makes a very desirable undergarment4 ,this should be high-necked1 long-sleeved1 and made to come well down over the ankles4 ,for the girl whose particular worry is a nose of flaming red1 let me say that in fleece-lined stockings1 calfskin boots and warm overshoes lies her only hope of a less flamboyant nasal appendage4 ,there is no need of fourteen petticoats1 notwithstanding the fact that really nice old ladies insist upon wearing that number4 ,one skirt of silk or moreen1 together with a tiny short one of white muslin and a pair of sensible1 warm1 woolen equestrian tights will make one more comfortable and will allay that immense swelling about the hips which much be-petticoated old ladies have4 ,the tights1 however1 should be worn only when one is out of doors4 ,during really cold weather no woman with sense enough to fill a one-grain quinine capsule will venture out of the house without thus properly clothing her lower limbs4 ,let femininity come to the understanding that in proper dressing and rational eating she will find the first and best materials for building her house of beauty4 ,it's all very well to wear pretty1 fluffy1 lace-trimmed undergarments1 but if you think that a wan1 white1 pinched little face pays you for such extravagances in silliness1 then you are a ninny4 ,wear the fluffy things if you will1 but put on the warm ones1 too4 ,in making a choice between the raiments of a ballet dancer and those of an ,eskimo lady1 ,i'd point the finger of approval toward the latter--at least at those times when the thermometer is lounging around the zero point4 ,,the ,,thin ,,girl ,beauty gives ,the features perfectness1 and to the form ,its delicate proportions4 --,willis4 ,diogenes and his lantern had an easy1 simple task4 ,if they had started out together to turn their searchlight of discovery upon a woman who was neither too fat nor too thin1 no doubt they'd been poking around in other people's affairs ever since4 ,i once heard of a woman to whom the idea of gaining or reducing flesh had never occurred1 but she died before ,i got a chance to look at her1 so of course ,i am rather doubtful as to the truth of the story4 ,to my mind she should have been made president of something or other or else been put on exhibition where the rest of suffering womankind could have gone and feasted their eyes upon such an impossible paragon4 ,if there is not a general wail about over-weight or under-weight1 then it's a thin neck1 or big hips1 or an inclination to too much tum-tum1 or skinny arms1 or cheeks like miniature pumpkins--and goodness only knows what else4 ,and by the time one particular horror is massaged out of existence another crops up like a spook in the closet of a fraidy-cat girl1 and then the business is begun all over again4 ,therefore1 say ,i this3 ,don't worry yourself into your grave about too much flesh or a lack of it unless you find yourself taking on the extreme proportions of a skeleton lady1 or a museum exhibit of unusual plumpness4 ,a thin neck may be a bad thing--as all girls so afflicted can testify--but if that thin neck is rebellious1 and pays absolutely no attention to tonics or massage or other coddling for which it should rightly be grateful1 then merely say1 ,all right1 if you insist6 ,and turn your attention to other things4 ,what admirer of feminine beauty would not look upon a bright mind1 quick1 kindly wits1 and sweet lovableness as a thousand times more acceptable than a neck as round and perfect as that of a ,venus8 ,on the other hand1 let me say that1 if you will merely look after your health--exercise every day1 be out of doors1 eat proper foods and take your daily sponge bath--you will keep your chest broad and full1 and your waist trim and neat4 ,breathing exercises every morning are excellent for this happy condition of affairs4 ,it is my firm belief that women could mold their bodies as they would if they only had patience and perseverance--not so much in flesh-gaining or flesh-losing1 but in being wholesomely strong and healthy4 ,this is most necessary1 not only to prolong life and make it pleasanter and more livable in every way1 but to be what ,god evidently intended--a robust1 well-developed and perfectly formed woman4 ,thin girls must be lazy and plump ones busy4 ,if you work hard and have the usual load of worries that half the women lug about with them as they do their powder rags and their purses1 then you may never hope to revel in a vast amount of fat4 ,fretters are invariably thin2 they simply worry off the flesh faster than nature can create it4 ,when a woman is unusually slender it is her duty to get fat1 not any more for the reason that she will look prettier with the angles filled out than for the reason that she will be stronger and healthier and in a better condition to resist illness and fatigue4 ,she should have at least ten hours' sleep out of twenty-four1 and this must be healthy sleep in a well-ventilated bedroom1 on a hard mattress1 and with no high pillows to make her stoop-shouldered and of ungainly figure4 ,a nap during the day is a good thing if one can afford the time4 ,absolute freedom from care and anxiety are necessary1 but--alas--we cannot always regulate the antics of fate or circumstances that deny us these sweet privileges4 ,the diet must be of the most nourishing1 and should consist mostly of food containing starch and sugar1 such as good fresh butter1 rich milk1 cream1 fruits both raw and cooked1 macaroni1 fish1 corn1 sweet potatoes1 peas1 beans1 ice creams1 desserts without pastries1 and nourishing broths4 ,cereals1 poultry1 game1 chocolate and sweet grapes are all excellent4 ,avoid all spiced1 acid or very salty foods4 ,while plenty of outdoor life is most essential1 a great deal of exercise is not4 ,if there is any internal disease1 especially the slightest inclination to dyspepsia or liver trouble1 one cannot possibly gain flesh until the cause of the extreme slenderness is removed4 ,when the body is plump in one part and fails in another1 either massage or a gymnastic course is advised4 ,dumb-bells and ,indian clubs will develop the arms2 massage with a fattening emollient1 together with loose clothing1 tepid baths and breathing exercises1 will increase the size of the chest and bust1 while swimming1 moderate bicycling and walking are good for nearly all plaints of the thin lady4 ,but until these changes are brought about--and it will take lots of time--do not fret or worry4 ,merely wear your clothing very loose1 substitute a comfortable little waist for stiff1 unwieldy corsets1 and see that your gowns are made full and dainty4 ,in this last particular you will have an immense advantage over the woman who would sell the shoes off her feet to be thin and willowy4 ,,the ,,plump ,,girl ,what's female beauty but an air divine1 ,through which the mind's all-gentle graces shine8 ,they1 like the sun1 irradiate all between2 ,the body charms1 because the soul is seen4 --,young4 ,if one had to choose between being too fat or too lean1 the wise woman would certainly take the smaller allowance of flesh4 ,jack ,sprat might incite pleasant ridicule1 but ,jack ,sprat's wife--lo6 there would be naught but pity and tears for her6 ,it is better by far to be the butt of jokes concerning walking shoestrings or perambulating umbrella cases than to waddle through life burdened to death with an excessive amount of flesh4 ,the thin sister can pad out the angles1 put frills and puffy things over the bony places1 but alas for the fat one6 ,she gets into clothes that are skin-tight1 and she draws in her corset string until it snaps and gives at every breath and sneeze1 and even then she does not look graceful and pretty1 for the fat--like secrets--will out1 and it rolls over and around like the little bumps and humps in a pudding bag4 ,illustration3 ,,lady ,,naylor-,,leland ,yet1 after all1 there's more hope for her than for her sister in misery4 ,while some thin girls might revel in cod liver oil and nearly convert themselves into a hospital storeroom of tonics and fattening foods1 they can't get round and rotund--the ,lord seems to will it that certain persons are to amble disconsolately through life minus the proper allotment of flesh4 ,but with the overplump lady it all lies within herself as to whether she is to be stout and buxom or of more artistic and beautiful proportions4 ,it is simply a matter of getting up and hustling1 a condition of animation frequently foreign to her nature1 but not at all impossible to even the most unwieldy4 ,while a certain careful routine of living is necessary for a speedy change for the better1 the two main points to remember are diet and exercise4 ,to the girl who says3 ,but ,i can't diet4 ,i get hungry4 ,i love sweets and goodies1 and have to have them1 ,i must reply3 ,well1 then1 be fat4 ,what is worth having is worth working for1 and the woman who is too fat for her own comfort and personal appearance invariably has ahead of her the dreadful bogy of additional flesh as the years go on4 ,and surely that should be enough to inspire her to mend her ways4 ,in beginning the change--that is1 in starting out on a regular system of dieting and exercising--you should remember that the reform must be worked gradually4 ,one must go slowly into the more healthful manner of living4 ,the severe methods of flesh-reducing cannot be too greatly deplored1 and many a woman has lost her life by these extreme measures4 ,i do not mean that they have died at their exercisers or that they fell exhausted because they did not have enough to eat1 but that in their mad efforts to become thin quickly they undermined their health and laid a good foundation for physical disorders4 ,good health1 with too much plumpness1 is preferable to beautiful proportions and the listlessness and pain of ill health4 ,so you can follow my advice with the greatest safety1 as health--to my way of thinking--is greater than beauty1 for the last depends upon the first1 invariably4 ,to-morrow1 when you get up1 throw on a loose1 warm wrapper1 and then open the window4 ,stand in the cool1 crisp morning air1 and expand your lungs a dozen times1 holding your hands on your hips and raising yourself lightly on your toes4 ,vary this by walking across the room1 taking long1 full breaths from the abdomen4 ,this practice is equally good for the thin girl1 or any other kind of a girl1 for that matter4 ,after airing your lungs close the window and run into the bath-room1 where you should have a quick sponge bath1 rubbing the body briskly with a heavy towel4 ,a quick alcohol rub can follow1 just as one pleases4 ,for breakfast let there be fresh uncooked fruit1 especially oranges4 ,tea or coffee must be taken clear1 as neither milk nor sugar should be indulged in by the beauty patient whose chief ambition it is to lose flesh4 ,toast must always be eaten instead of bread1 and butter used sparingly at all times4 ,avoid fats1 starchy cereals1 flesh-producing vegetables and pastries4 ,this is very simple1 when you once make up your mind to it4 ,do not fancy you are thus left with nothing whatever to eat--like ,mother ,hubbard's unhappy dog4 ,meats1 either cold or broiled1 are good if eaten in moderation4 ,poultry1 fish and game are all right4 ,asparagus1 string beans1 spinach and tomatoes are the most appetizing of vegetables1 and in these four alone there will be sufficient variety1 especially when salads of all sorts are included1 although these must1 of course1 be taken without oil4 ,young onions are also excellent1 as are condiments1 dried fruits and acidulated drinks4 ,a hot lemonade1 taken every night1 is good1 but it must have little sugar1 else the effects of the acid will be overbalanced4 ,as for exercise1 walking is best of all4 ,running is very beneficial1 but the unique witticisms of the average small boy will probably keep this form of exercise confined strictly to the house4 ,begin by walking half a mile for several days1 then make the distance a mile1 and keep increasing your daily walk until you cover at least five miles4 ,that may sound like an impossibility1 but don't you believe it1 for it's not at all4 ,in ,great ,britain a walk of fifteen miles is not considered half an effort1 and who does not know that the ,english girls have the most superb complexions in the world8 ,besides this1 they are healthy1 wholesome1 well-developed women1 and that counts a good deal in the race for beauty4 ,if the five-mile walk is too exhausting1 then take a longer time getting to the point1 when it will be exhilarating instead of enervating4 ,sleep must be limited to seven hours1 and daily naps are strictly tabooed4 ,to those who prefer1 mechanical massage can be given1 and this will take the place of long walks1 although they are really preferable1 as the fresh air is necessary4 ,oxygen destroys or burns out carbon1 and carbon is fat4 ,the more exercise and fresh air1 the more oxygen1 and consequently destruction of fat by the one healthy means of remedying obesity4 ,soda phosphates and the various fat-reducing preparations are not desirable4 ,the only way to cajole willowiness of body into coming in your direction is to diet and to take plenty of exercise4 ,do not drink much water4 ,a little lemon juice added to it will make it less fattening4 ,there1 now1 plump lady1 are your rules6 ,abide by them and your woes will surely disappear with a swiftness that will make you laugh4 ,,the ,,working ,,girl ,labor is life6--',tis the still water faileth2 ,idleness ever despaireth1 bewaileth2 ,keep the watch wound1 or the dark rust assaileth4 --,mrs4 ,frances ,s4 ,osgood4 ,it has often occurred to me that there are a vast number of plucky little bread-winning girls and women to whom even a tiny jar of creme marquise is a hopeless impossibility4 ,for them is this chapter written4 ,in the first place1 we all feel pretty sure that--in the great1 wonderful beginning of things--it was never meant that women should work4 ,we can't help knowing this when we look about us every night at six o'clock and see the weary1 patient1 brave little faces that line either side of the elevated trains or the crowded street cars4 ,women are not given to the solving of problems1 so we won't go into the great whys or the wherefores4 ,that's a loss of time anyhow4 ,but we will do heaps better than that4 ,we will try to be hopeful and cheery1 and learn how to make the best of the little happinesses that do come our way4 ,the working girl--and we all take off our hats to her pluck--needs more than any other class of womankind to take care of her health4 ,she is out in all kinds of weather1 she works hard1 and ofttimes struggles through a daily routine that is harrowing beyond everything4 ,after hours there is mending to be done1 or a thousand and one little duties to keep her busy until1 tired out and nerve-weary1 she goes to bed to gain rest and strength for the struggles of the morrow4 ,she cannot afford the little luxuries of the toilet that are so dear and near to the heart of womankind the world over4 ,the joys of having her hair done or her pretty cheeks massaged are not hers--and the pity of it is that often enough the fault lies not within herself1 but in the unhappy circumstances of fate that have placed her among the less fortunate sisterhood4 ,let a large bar of castile soap be the working girl's first investment4 ,i say a large bar for the reason that it is much cheaper when bought that way4 ,a good-sized piece of the pure white castile can be bought at some of the drug stores for fifteen or twenty cents4 ,this should be cut into small cakes and put on a high shelf1 where it will become dry and hard and so it will be more lasting4 ,with plenty of warm water1 a few good wash-rags and this pure soap you will have a beauty outfit that will be more beneficial than all the rouges and eyebrow pencils that were ever put into the windows of beauty shops4 ,the bath should be daily4 ,now do not say that you have not the time1 for the sponge bath--which will make the blood tingle and the flesh glow--can be got through with in almost no time4 ,it is most imperative that the secretions of the skin and the dust gathered during the day should be removed4 ,when the body is not kept scrupulously clean the complexion is sure to suffer1 for there the pores of the skin are most susceptible1 and eruptions and blackheads come from very slight causes4 ,when the hands become rough and tender1 and will not stand soap1 prepare a little almond meal4 ,this1 too1 is very inexpensive1 for1 instead of the powdered almonds1 you can use the pressed almond cake1 which is nearly as good and very cheap1 and in place of the orris root wheat flour can be used4 ,take three ounces of the first and seven of the latter4 ,if you can afford it1 add a little powdered talcum4 ,a cream for the face and hands1 and one which can be used with perfect safety1 is benzoinated mutton tallow4 ,this is simply the best mutton tallow to which benzoin has been added1 and both ingredients kept at a steady heat until the alcohol of the benzoin has been completely evaporated4 ,about the hair3 ,the greatest secret of luxuriant locks is absolute cleanliness4 ,there are many women who vainly fancy that they keep their pretty locks perfectly clean1 when they really do not at all4 ,only plenty of running water can thoroughly rinse the soap or shampoo out4 ,if the hair is at all sticky1 or if a slight oily substance adheres to the comb1 then the hair is not clean4 7,and let me say right here1 combs and brushes too must be kept as scrupulously clean as the hair itself47 ,castile soap makes the best shampoo in the world1 especially when a little piece is dissolved in warm water and a tiny bit of ammonia or alcohol added1 although for dry hair neither the alcohol nor ammonia is at all necessary4 ,if a tonic is needed1 then use the sage tea1 which1 however1 must not be put on light1 blond tresses4 ,common kerosene1 if one can endure the odor1 is an unsurpassed remedy for falling hair4 ,rubbing the scalp every night with the finger tips until the flesh tingles and glows is a most inexpensive way of stimulating the circulation1 and frequently makes the hair grow long and nice and fine4 ,what one eats plays such a leading part in the beauty-getting efforts--but ,i have but little space left now to tell about that4 ,summed up in a nutshell1 it is this3 ,eat very little pastry1 and shun greasy foods or fat meats1 like pork or bacon4 ,pin your faith to vegetables and fruit4 ,a luncheon of two apples is of greater nourishment1 and more1 real value to good looks1 than a repast of mince pie and coffee--two unspeakable horrors to any one who regards health and beauty as worth the having or the striving for4 ,as for the dress1 ,i could write a seven volume treatise on that4 ,it sounds prosy1 ,i know1 and very stupid1 but let me tell you that it is the wise girl who buys for comfort1 utility and wear1 instead of style and elaborateness4 ,a plain little fedora1 if well brushed1 makes a trimmer1 neater appearance than a cheap velvet hat ornamented with feathers that have straightened out and flowers that have long since lost their glory in the rains and storms of autumn time4 ,it is the same way with shoes and gloves4 ,if one can possibly afford it1 calfskin boots and heavy gloves should always be purchased4 ,they will not only outwear two or three pairs of the lighter1 less durable kind1 but they will give warmth and comfort and a well-groomed look as well4 ,,the ,,nervous ,,one ,the beautiful seems right by force of beauty2 and the feeble wrong because of weakness4--,elizabeth ,barrett ,browning4 ,of all the unfortunates on the face of the globe there is none so worthy of real all-wool pity and yard-wide sympathy as the woman of nerves4 ,yes1 and her family needs a dash of consolation1 too4 ,one nervous woman can create more nervousness among other women than could a cageful of mice or a colony of cows suddenly let loose4 ,it is not for herself that the fuss-budget should mend her ways1 but for the great good of humanity at large4 ,we are all of us more or less nervous1 and it is really interesting to observe what strange outlets woman's natural nervousness chooses4 ,i'd walk from ,hyde ,park to the city hall at midnight and never be a bit scared4 ,but let me stay in the flat alone after dark and ,i'm in a state of terror that would make you weep were you to behold me1 confesses nervous lady ,no4 #a4 ,i have nerves of iron1 pipes up nervous lady ,no4 #b4 ,except when there is a thunderstorm4 ,then ,i wish ,i were as dead as ,julius ,caesar4 ,well6 drawls nervous lady ,no4 #c4 ,i don't believe in ghosts at all1 but ,i'm scared to death of 'em4 ,sometimes ,i not only keep the gas burning all night1 but ,i sit up in bed so as to be right ready to run away from 'em4 ,some people have contempt for the nervous ones4 ,i have only pity4 ,any one who has gone through the tortures of hearing imaginary burglars three nights in the week for ten or twelve years on an endless stretch needs consolation and then a good1 straight talk on the beautiful convenience of horse sense4 ,most women are always hearing burglars4 ,probably one in a thousand turns out to be a real1 live housebreaker4 ,whenever the wise woman hears one fussing with the lock on the front door or trying to squeeze into the pantry window1 she just says3 ,same old burglar4 ,he'll be gone in the morning1 and he always is4 ,that's a heap better plan than arousing the household and suffering the unmerciful torture that a family given to ridicule can inflict4 ,i heard a woman say the other day that she never knew what it was to be nervous until a certain ragman began to take pedestrian exercises up and down the alley back of her house4 ,he carries a canvas bag over his shoulder1 and he yells ,eny ol' racks until that woman locks herself in a closet and stuffs sofa cushions into her ears4 ,his ,eny ol' racks has got on her nerves so that she is simply beside herself until that man takes himself and his yell out of hearing distance4 ,to be sure1 he yells through his nose1 but why in the world that woman should make herself miserable about something she can't possibly help is a double-turreted mystery to me4 ,the thing for her to do is to sit down placidly on the back porch and make up her mind that the ragman is not going to upset the tranquillity of her existence2 that he hasn't any right to interfere with her happiness1 and that she isn't going to be fool enough to let him4 ,i'll wager a peseta against a gum drop that she could do it1 too1 and without half an effort1 if she would only once be consistent and determined4 ,there is no use in beating about the bush4 ,i feel sorry for the nervous woman at all times and every day in the week1 but there's no chance of a doubt that the nervous woman is mentally unbalanced for want of courage and lack of will power4 ,some place1 way back in the far corners of her intellect1 there are numerous little sore spots that need the healing tonic of level-headedness and the bravery of belief in her own strength4 ,those wise gentlemen of pellets and pills tell us that when there is a defect in the structure of the nervous system1 some certain region of cells not well flushed with blood is usually at the bottom of the infirmity4 ,the cure1 they say1 is discipline and training1 good food1 exercise and plenty of sleep and good fresh air4 ,illustration3 ,,mrs4 ,j4 ,r4 ,,de ,,lamar ,sunlight is a glorious medicine for the woman of nerves4 ,if ,i had a nervous fuss-budget under my care1 the first thing ,i would do would be to feed her well4 ,i'd give her nourishing broths and daintily-served vegetables1 and little steaks and chops and plenty of fattening cereals and drinks4 ,i would bundle her off to the parks every morning with sealed orders not to come back until she was dead tired and as hungry as a small girl at a boarding school4 ,i would impress upon her mind the great need of throwing worry to the winds and taking in good1 long breaths of ,god's blessed fresh air4 ,then1 after feeding her some more1 ,i'd make her take a nice1 refreshing sponge bath and tumble early into bed4 ,after several days of such treatment ,i'd corner her where she couldn't get away and lay down the laws4 ,now it's just with yourself1 the lecture would begin with1 whether you are to be a jolly-hearted1 wholesome-looking woman or a tailor-made gown with a bundle of nerves inside of it4 ,no matter what comes1 don't make yourself wretched by fretting4 ,every one has troubles4 ,you can't escape them4 ,sometimes they come with a sweep-like tornadoes gone mad1 and you'll say to yourself3 ',my heavens6 ,i wonder if ,i'll live through it all8' ,but you will1 and between you and me1 my dear1 it's just as well to come out of the battle with a smiling face as with eight additional crow's feet and a new scolding lock of gray hair4 ,just say to yourself3 ',i will not grind my teeth because the man next to me in the street car is chewing a toothpick4 ,i am not responsible for his lack of manners4 ,i positively refuse to have fits because the woman in the flat next to mine plays the flute eight hours a day4 ,if it's convenient ,i'll move2 if it isn't ,i'll not make existence a daylight nightmare4' ,school yourself6 ,i will continue4 ,get lots of starch in you and a backbone that is a backbone6 ,don't fall down in a heap and mope over things you can't help4 ,the agreeable things in life are as rare as sage-brush growing in ,gotham1 while the disagreeable is bobbing up eternally4 ,so brace up1 my friend1 and make the best of it4 ,discipline yourself4 ,keep your mind fresh and bright1 and your body strong and healthy4 ,if you have hard work to do then do it with the least possible expenditure of worry and nerve-force4 ,be in the open air as much as you can1 and above everything else dwell not on the unhealthy state of your nerves4 ,let self-mastery be your shibboleth and 'no nerves' your prayer4 ,,perfumes ,oh1 how much more doth beauty beauteous seem1 ,by that sweet ornament which truth doth give6 ,the rose looks fair1 but fairer we it deem1 ,for that sweet odor which doth in it live4 --,shakespeare4 ,women love delicate perfumes as they do silk stockings and violets4 ,it's just born in 'em1 like their deep-rooted horror of mice and bills and burglars4 ,from the time when the baby girl sniffs the sweetness of the powder puff as it fluffs about her soft1 pretty neck until the white-haired lady lovingly fondles the lavender sachets that lie between the folds of her time-yellowed wedding gown1 she loves sweet odors4 ,the true gentlewoman never uses strong perfumes1 yet her hats and clothing and handkerchiefs always send forth a faint scent of fragrant flowers4 ,the odor is so very slight that it does not suggest the dashing on of perfume1 but1 instead1 bespeaks scrupulous cleanliness of body and garments1 with perhaps an added suggestion of the soft winds that blow over a clover field4 ,no perfume at all is far better than too much1 for who does not look with suspicious eyes upon the woman who1 when passing one on the street1 seems to be in an invisible vapor of white rose or jockey club--strong enough to work on the streets8 ,there is a secret about it all1 and such a simple one6 ,it is merely choosing one particular odor and using it in every possible way4 ,there is nothing sweeter than violet perfume1 so suppose ,i illustrate with that8 ,begin by using orris root for your teeth1 combined1 of course1 with the other necessary ingredients4 ,then1 if you can afford it1 get the expensive imported violet soaps1 although as a matter of beautifying there is nothing better than the pure white castile4 ,the odor of this1 disliked by some1 can be entirely done away with by using a little violet toilet water in the bath and touching the ear lobes with it afterward4 ,then1 between the folds of your gowns and in the crowns of your hats lay little violet sachets1 always removing them before the gown or hat is worn1 as the perfume must be faint and delicate4 ,a few drops of essence of violet will scent your face powder1 if it is not already perfumed1 and bath bags of orris--and other good things--will add to your galaxy of sweet odors4 ,if you use creme marquise or any of the other delightful cosmetics told about in our beauty book1 add a little essence of violets to them while they are being mixed4 ,putting it all in a nutshell3 ,simply choose your favorite perfume and carry it out in every detail4 ,for those who are fond of violet ,i will give the following recipes3 ,creme de la ,violettes3 ,place in a porcelain kettle one ounce each of white wax and spermaceti1 cut in fine shavings4 ,when melted add to this five ounces oil of sweet almonds and heat1 but do not let boil4 ,remove from fire and pour in quickly one and one-half ounces of rose-water in which ten grains of borax has been dissolved4 ,beat briskly4 ,when beginning to thicken1 add one-half teaspoonful essence of violets4 ,when nearly cold put in little jars4 ,use as cold cream or any general face cosmetic4 ,it is more effective when applied at night1 just after the face is bathed in warm water and while the flesh is pink and moist4 ,perfume--,violettes de ,bois3 ,essence of violets1 five ounces4 ,essence of acacia1 one ounce4 ,essence of rose1 one ounce4 ,extract of iris root1 one ounce4 ,oil of bitter almonds1 five drops4 ,violet ,lotion3 ,alcohol1 four ounces4 ,ammonia1 one ounce4 ,essence of violets1 one dram4 ,add one teaspoonful of this to a bowl of water when bathing the face1 neck and arms4 ,hard water is the cause of many bad complexions1 and this will remedy that particular trouble of the beauty-seeker4 ,poudre de ,vicomtesse3 ,talcum powder1 seven and one-half ounces4 ,finest starch1 one and one-fourth ounces4 ,powdered orris root1 one and one-fourth ounces4 ,oil of orris1 ten drops4 ,violet ,bath ,bags3 ,two pounds of finely ground oatmeal4 ,three ounces of almond flour4 ,one cake of best white castile soap1 shaved fine4 ,one-quarter pound powdered orris root4 ,take one yard of cheese cloth and make it into little bags about four inches square and fill with the mixture4 ,these will make a soft white lather1 and afterward the face1 neck and arms should be rinsed in water containing a few drops of benzoin4 ,larger bags can be made for the regular bath4 ,for the ,teeth3 ,one-fourth pound of prepared chalk1 finely powdered4 ,three-fourths ounce pulverized castile soap4 ,one ounce powdered orris root4 ,one-half dram oil of sassafras4 ,one ounce pulverized sugar4 ,violet ,sachet3 ,black currant leaves1 powdered1 one-fourth pound4 ,rose leaves1 one-fourth pound4 ,cassia buds1 one-eighth pound4 ,orris1 ground1 one-half pound4 ,gum benzoin1 one-eighth pound4 ,grain musk1 powdered1 one-fourth dram4 ,mix thoroughly and let stand for one week4 ,violet ,toilet ,water3 ,essence of violet1 one and three-fourth ounces4 ,essence of rose1 one-half ounce4 ,essence of cassie1 one-half ounce4 ,alcohol1 #ad ounces4 ,essence de ,fleur d',oranges3 ,one-half ounce pure neroli4 ,one pint alcohol4 ,one ounce essence of jonquille4 ,violet ,sachet ,powder3 ,eight ounces of orris root4 ,five drops oil of bergamot4 ,three drops oil of bitter almonds4 ,four drops oil of rose4 ,one fluid dram tincture of musk4 ,mix thoroughly4 ,lavender ,sachet ,powder3 ,one pound powdered lavender4 ,one-quarter pound gum benzoin 7powdered74 ,six ounces oil of lavender4 ,mix4 ,heliotrope ,sachet ,powder3 ,one-quarter pound rose leaves4 ,two ounces tonquin1 ground fine4 ,one-quarter pound pulverized orris root4 ,one ounce vanilla 7powdered74 ,one-half grain musk4 ,two drops oil of almonds4 ,mix by fluffing through a sieve4