,,mission ,,furniture ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,it ,,part ,,three ,,popular ,,mechanics ,,handbooks ,,chicago ,,popular ,,mechanics ,,company ,copyrighted1 #aiab ,,by ,h4 ,h4 ,,windsor ,this book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the ,popular ,mechanics ,co4 ,like the magazine1 these books are written so you can understand it1 and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all4 ,the texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this ,handbook ,series1 by experts2 are up-to-date1 and have been revised by the editor of ,popular ,mechanics4 ,the dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed1 sanded and cut to length4 ,if the workman desires to have a complete home-made article1 allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces4 ,s-#d-,s and ,s-#b-,s are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides4 ,,contents ,piano ,bench1 #e ,library ,table1 #g ,princess ,dresser1 #aj ,sewing ,box1 #ad ,fern ,stand1 #ag ,wardrobe1 #bj ,finish1 #bd ,oak ,table1 #be ,book ,trough1 #bh ,oak ,serving ,table1 #cj ,umbrella ,stand1 #cc ,chafing-,dish ,buffet1 #ce ,writing ,desk1 #ch ,music ,rack and ,bookstand1 #da ,dictionary and ,magazine ,stand1 #dc ,leather-,back ,armchair1 #dg ,wall ,shelf1 #ej ,pedestal1 #ec ,magazine ,rack1 #ee ,hall ,tree1 #eh ,table for the ,den1 #fj ,table1 ,sewing1 #fd ,burlap-,covered ,window ,seat1 #fe ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,settee1 #fg ,screen1 #ga1 #id ,mission ,bookrack1 #gd ,round ,extension ,dining ,table1 #ge ,arm ,dining ,chair1 #gi ,hall ,bench1 #hb ,sewing ,table1 #hd ,side ,chair1 #hh ,another ,piano ,bench1 #ia ,another ,screen1 #ie ,folding ,card ,table1 #ig ,magazine ,stand1 #ajb ,tabouret1 #aje ,porch ,swing1 #aji ,foot ,warmer1 #aaa ,plate ,rack for ,dining ,room1 #aac ,mission ,sideboard1 #aaf ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,piano ,bench ,detail of the ,piano ,bench ,detail of the ,library ,table ,the ,finished ,library ,table ,dresser ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,detail of the ,princess ,dresser ,sewing ,box ,made of ,walnut and ,ash ,detail of the ,sewing ,box ,detail of the ,fern ,stand ,finished ,stand in ,quartered ,oak ,the ,wardrobe ,complete ,detail of ,wardrobe ,detail of ,construction ,finished ,table ,detail of ,book ,trough ,book ,trough ,complete ,serving ,table ,complete ,detail of ,serving ,table ,umbrella ,stand ,detail of ,umbrella ,stand ,buffet in ,quartered ,oak ,method of ,fastening with ,screws ,detail of the ,chafing-,dish ,buffet ,writing ,desk ,made of ,plain-,sawed ,oak ,detail of the ,writing ,desk ,complete ,stand ,detail of the ,stand ,detail of the ,dictionary and ,magazine ,stand ,stand ,made in ,oak ,arm ,chair ,complete ,detail of the ,arm ,chair ,complete ,wall ,shelf ,wall ,shelf ,detail ,completed ,pedestal ,detail of the ,pedestal ,detail of the ,magazine ,rack ,magazine ,rack ,complete ,detail and ,finished ,view of ,hall ,tree ,table ,completed ,detail of a ,den ,table ,fig4 #a--,the ,rough ,cedar ,box ,without the ,covering ,fig4 #b--;,design of the ,covering ,strip ,put on ,over the ,burlap ,mission ,settee ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,detail of the ,oak ,settee ,detail of ,one ,section ,screen of ,three ,sections ,detail of the ,bookrack ,the ,complete ,bookrack ,detail of the ,table ,table for the ,dining-,room ,set ,armchair of the ,dining-,room ,set ,detail of the ,armchair ,detail of the ,hall ,bench ,bench ,made of ,plain ,oak ,sewing ,table in ,plain ,oak ,detail of the ,sewing ,table ,construction of the ,drawer ,side ,chair of ,dining-,room ,set ,detail of the ,side ,chair ,detail of the ,piano ,bench ,piano ,bench in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,plain-,oak ,frame with ,burlap ,panels ,detail of the ,frame ,detail of the ,card ,table ,card ,table ,ready for ,use ,the ,legs ,fold on the ,under ,side of ,top ,stand ,complete ,detail of ,stand ,detail of ,tabouret ,finished ,tabouret ,complete ,porch ,swing ,detail of the ,porch ,swing ,detail of the ,foot ,warmer ,oak ,stool with ,brass ,cover ,detail of ,plate ,rack ,dining-,room ,plate ,rack ,sideboard for the ,dining-,room ,set ,detail of the ,sideboard ,a ,,piano ,,bench ,illustration3 ,piano ,bench in ,black ,walnut ,the piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black walnut and was finished natural4 ,the finish was applied in the following manner3 ,first1 all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered1 then the surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil4 ,after this had stood several hours1 or until it had had time to penetrate the wood1 the surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth4 ,after the oil had stood for #dh hours1 a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to harden overnight4 ,the next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly with ,no4 #jj paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions which are found upon every can4 ,two more coats of wax were applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed4 ,the effect is very pleasing4 ,the oil brings out the rich color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color4 ,the following stock is needed3 #a top1 #a by #af-a_/b by #dj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #d-a_/d by #cf in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #d-a_/d by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lower rails1 #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #g_/h by #c-c_/d by #cf in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #f slats1 #c_/h by #a-a_/d by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,with the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces4 ,the legs are specified planed on four sides4 ,square the legs to length and the rails1 stretcher1 slats1 etc41 to width and length4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,piano ,bench ,lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher4 ,the slats are best made without tenons1 the whole end of each slat being housed into the rails4 ,the reason for this is obvious--it is a difficult matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned4 ,when the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts itself4 ,it is necessary1 however1 to chisel the sides of the mortises carefully1 but this is a simple matter compared with getting the shoulders of the tenons1 etc41 all just alike4 ,assemble the parts1 using good hot glue4 ,put the ends of the bench together first4 ,when the glue has hardened on these1 place the stretcher and side rails4 ,fasten the top to the frame from the under side1 either by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons4 ,a ,,library ,,table ,a library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing4 ,this table looks best when finished in quarter-sawed oak1 although any of the other furniture woods can be used if desired4 ,if the material is ordered from the mill cut to length1 squared and sanded1 much of the hard labor can be avoided4 ,order the following pieces3 #d legs1 #b by #b by #cj-a_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #a-a_/h by #cj by #db in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b end pieces1 #c_/d by #ag-a_/h by #bi in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b top rails1 #g_/h by #b by #cg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b top rails1 #g_/h by #b by #be-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a lower brace1 #c_/d by #b by #cb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d shelves1 #c_/d by #g by #bi in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h slats1 #a_/d by #a-a_/h by #ag-a_/h in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #e-c_/d by #be in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d drawer sides1 #c_/h by #c-c_/d by #ad in41 soft wood4 #b drawer ends1 #c_/h by #c-c_/h by #bd-a_/d in41 soft wood4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #ac-a_/d by #bd-a_/d in41 soft wood4 #b drawer supports1 #c_/d by #b by #bc-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #b drawer supports1 #c_/d by #b by #be in41 soft wood4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,library ,table ,start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section ,,bb4 ,care should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same height4 ,this is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the ends square1 and then laying out the mortises across all four at once with a try-square4 ,illustration3 ,the ,finished ,library ,table ,the table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued together4 ,be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the joints a tight fit4 ,the corners should be cut out for the posts as shown4 ,the posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws4 ,the holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged4 ,the top rails are also fastened to the top board by means of screws4 ,the end pieces can now be made4 ,two or more boards will have to be glued together for these4 ,the top corners will have to be cut to fit about the top rails4 ,cleats can be used in fastening them to the top board4 ,the shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in the posts4 ,they are held to the end boards by means of screws4 ,if the parts all fit perfectly square and tight1 they can be glued and screwed together1 which will complete the table except for the slats and drawers4 ,the slats can be fastened on with nails1 then the heads covered with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose4 ,the drawer supports can now be put in4 ,they are screwed to the end boards as shown4 ,a bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady the table4 ,the two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch4 ,no handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for pulling them out4 ,when the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots removed4 ,scrape the glue from about the joints as finish will not take where there is any glue4 ,apply the stain preferred or the one that matches the other furniture4 ,this can be any of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,a ,,princess ,,dresser ,a design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing4 ,the cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away1 a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as follows3 ,illustration3 ,dresser ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak #d posts1 #a-c_/d by #a-c_/d by #bg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top board1 #c_/d by #ag by #cg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #e side rails1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #cg-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d end rails1 #c_/d by #b by #ag-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b end panels1 #a_/d by #af-a_/d by #af-c_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a drawer partition1 #a by #g-c_/d by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back board1 #c_/d by #d-a_/b by #cf in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b mirror supports1 #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #cj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b side pieces for mirror1 #c_/d by #b by #db in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b end pieces for mirror1 #c_/d by #b by #ba-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #g by #ag-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #g by #cf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a #bj by #ch bevel mirror4 ,the following pieces may be of any soft wood3 #e drawer slides1 #c_/d by #b by #ag in4 #f drawer sides1 #a_/b by #g by #ag in4 #b drawer bottoms1 #a_/b by #ag by #ag in4 #a drawer bottom1 #a_/b by #ag by #ce-a_/b in4 #d-a_/b sq4 ft4 of #c_/h-;in4 pine for back4 ,first be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length4 ,either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired4 ,the mortises can now be laid out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and then marked and cut directly from each tenon4 ,the posts as well as the end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the #a_/d-;in4 end panels4 ,the top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts4 ,the corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing4 ,the end sections of the dresser can be glued together first1 care being taken to get the joints square and tight4 ,when these are dry the side rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place4 ,the top board is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the rails4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,princess ,dresser ,the mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side pieces as shown4 ,it is rabbeted on the back to hold a #bj by #ch-;in4 mirror4 ,after the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass4 ,the frame swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the body of the dresser as shown4 ,the drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner4 ,the drawing shows two drawers in the top compartment1 but one exactly like the lower can be made and used instead by simply leaving out the #a in4 partition4 ,suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store4 ,the back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner4 ,scrape all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where there is any glue4 ,finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain desired1 which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,a ,,sewing ,,box ,a rather unique sewing box1 and one that is quite as convenient as unique1 is shown in the illustration4 ,the material is walnut and ash4 ,the posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash4 ,both are finished in their natural colors4 ,the following is the stock bill3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b in4 in diameter and #ae in4 long1 walnut4 #a bottom1 #c_/h by #af-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s1 walnut4 #d top rails1 #c_/h by #a-a_/b by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s1 ash4 #d under rails1 #e_/h by #c_/d by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s1 walnut4 #gb slats1 #a_/h by #e_/h by #f-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s1 ash4 ,in ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses4 ,if not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the verticals1 it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock1 lay it off and work it into an eight-sided prism4 ,after this1 the arrises may again be planed until it has #af and then #cb sides4 ,the rest may be removed with sandpaper4 ,or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be available4 ,saw these posts to length and leave the ends square4 ,illustration3 ,sewing ,box ,made of ,walnut and ,ash ,square up the stock for the other parts4 ,work the bottom piece to a #af-;in4 square4 ,the rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered each in turn4 ,the bottom is fastened to the posts by metal brackets4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,sewing ,box ,chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted4 ,insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place4 ,place the lower of the two top rails1 notching out the posts as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails in position4 ,fasten to the posts4 ,miter and place the top rails4 ,the slats1 it will be noted1 are fastened to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails from the inner side4 ,brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are required4 ,in finishing1 sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled linseed oil4 ,allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean4 ,after this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of shellac and allow it to harden4 ,sand the shellac when hard with ,no4 #jj sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax1 polishing in the usual manner4 ,two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be moved about4 ,a ,,fern ,,stand ,when making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible1 as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains4 ,considerable labor can be saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,order the following pieces3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #cj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h side rails1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b shelf supports1 #c_/d by #a by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #c_/d by #af by #af in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ae by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #af slats1 #c_/h by #c by #e in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,the legs are made first4 ,be sure they are square and of equal length4 ,the mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the side rails are all made1 then marked and cut from each tenon4 ,the top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides1 as the table is square4 ,in addition to the tenons on the rails1 grooves should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing4 ,holes should be cut in the slats as shown4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,fern ,stand ,the top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts4 ,it is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the top rails4 ,the bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into the posts as shown4 ,the top and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible1 otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together4 ,before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square and tight4 ,the posts and rails should be glued and assembled1 then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the clamps are put on4 ,illustration3 ,finished ,stand in ,quartered ,oak ,leave to dry for about #bd hours before removing the clamps4 ,fasten the top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots4 ,a ,,wardrobe ,the wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all4 ,it provides ample room for hanging suits1 dresses and other wearing apparel1 as well as space for boots and shoes4 ,it can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use1 but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect4 ,the stock should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,in this way much labor will be saved4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #d posts1 #a-c_/d by #a-c_/d by #fd-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b front rails1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #cg-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top and #a bottom board1 each #c_/d by #ah-a_/b by #cg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top back rail1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #cg-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a lower back rail1 #c_/d by #d by #cg-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #f end rails1 #c_/d by #f by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d end uprights1 #c_/d by #d by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h end panels1 #c_/h by #g-a_/b by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #e shelves1 #c_/d by #ag-c_/d by #ai-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #d-c_/d by #h-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a door1 #c_/d by #g-c_/d by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a shelf partition1 #c_/d by #aj by #ai in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #g by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #h by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a partition 7several pieces71 #c_/d by #ai-a_/b by #eg-c_/d in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d door uprights1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #eg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b top rails1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b middle rails1 #c_/d by #f by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b lower rails1 #c_/d by #d-a_/b by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d center uprights1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #bc in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h panels1 #c_/h by #f by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d pieces1 #c_/h by #d-c_/d by #ai in41 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #c_/h by #h by #ai in41 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #c_/h by #d-a_/d by #h in41 soft wood4 #d pieces1 #a_/b by #g by #ai in41 soft wood4 #c pieces1 #a_/b by #af-a_/b by #ai in41 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #f-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #h by #ai in41 soft wood4 #a piece1 #a_/b by #g-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 soft wood4 #a back 7several pieces71 #c_/h by #cf by #eh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,illustration3 ,the ,wardrobe ,complete ,first be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length4 ,the upper ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired4 ,the two front posts are alike1 as are the back ones4 ,the mortises should be laid out in each pair of posts and then cut with a sharp chisel1 or they can be left until the tenons are all made1 and then marked and cut from each tenon4 ,grooves should be cut on one side of all the posts to take the end panels4 ,the front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each end1 but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut for the panels the same as the posts4 ,the top back rail serves as a top back board and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail drawing4 ,the frame can now be assembled4 ,glue should be used on all the joints as it makes them much stiffer4 ,be careful to get the frame together perfectly square1 or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves4 ,the top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts4 ,the closet is divided into two compartments by a partition4 ,this can be made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends1 as desired4 ,place the shelves in position as shown4 ,they are held in place by means of cleats and screws4 ,the one shelf has a partition in its center with a door on one side and two small drawers on the other4 ,drawers should be fitted to three of the other compartments4 ,they are made in the usual manner except that the front boards should be cut out at the top for a handhold as shown4 ,the doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends4 ,they have a centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet4 ,suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied4 ,these can be purchased at any hardware store4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,wardrobe ,the backing is put on in the usual manner4 ,it should be finished on the front side4 ,when complete1 the closet should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed4 ,apply stain of the desired color4 ,this may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,a ,,finish ,an appropriate finish is obtained as follows3 ,first thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the various parts1 then apply a coat of brown ,flemish water stain4 ,allow this to dry well1 then sand it lightly with ,no4 #jj sandpaper to lay the grain4 ,again apply the ,flemish stain1 but this time have it weakened by the addition of an equal amount of water4 ,when dry1 sand again as on the first coat4 ,upon the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,this is to protect the high lights from the stain in the filler which is to follow4 ,sand lightly1 then apply a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark field for the brown ,flemish4 ,clean off the surplus and polish in the usual manner4 ,upon the filler1 after it has hardened overnight1 apply a coat of orange shellac4 ,successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish4 ,polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair1 and the last with pulverized pumice stone1 mixed with raw linseed or crude oil4 ,,an ,,oak ,,table ,the accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table4 ,the stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require only the work of making the joints and putting them together3 #d posts1 #b in1 square #cj-e_/h in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d upper rails1 #g_/h by #f-a_/b by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b lower rails1 #g_/h by #c by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b top pieces1 #g_/h by #ab-a_/b by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #f slats1 #c_/h by #c-a_/b by #ae-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #g_/h by #h-a_/b by #ba-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,this table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as desired4 ,if dowels are used1 the upper and lower rails should be made #b in4 shorter than shown in the drawing4 ,be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to each other and their ends sawed square off4 ,this will simplify the assembling a great deal4 ,make the posts exactly the same length1 #cj-a_/b in41 and chamfer a #c_/h-;in1 bevel on their tops4 ,square up the four upper rails1 #f by #bb in41 marking the working face and edge to work from when laying out the tenons later4 ,square up the two lower rails1 #b-a_/b by #bb in4 ,these must be exactly the same length as the upper rails4 ,the two ends of the table having the slats should be glued up first4 ,lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these two ends and be sure to work from the marked face and edges1 using a knife line4 ,cut the tenons1 and1 by placing them against the posts in the exact position they are to occupy1 mark the places for the mortises4 ,these joints should be numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,construction ,finished ,table ,square up the slats1 #c by #ae-a_/h in41 and cut mortises in the upper and lower rails #a_/d in4 deep to let them in4 ,the number of these slats1 their size and spacing may be arranged to suit one's own idea4 ,put the posts1 upper and lower rails1 and slats together without glue first to determine if the parts fit properly1 and then glue and clamp them together4 ,hot glue will hold best1 if the room and lumber are warm2 if not1 it is best to use ordinary liquid glue4 ,while the glue on these two ends of the table is setting1 the other upper rails1 top1 and stretcher may be finished4 ,the top will have to be made of two or three pieces joined together with dowels and glue4 ,if possible1 use only two boards and be sure the grain in both pieces runs the same way when they are put together4 ,after the ends which were glued have set at least #bd hours1 the clamps may be taken off and the other two upper rails tenoned and mortised in place4 ,the stretcher may be held with two #c_/h-;in4 dowels in each end1 or with two round-head screws put through the lower rails4 ,when gluing up the whole table1 be sure the sides are square to each other4 ,the top may now be squared up #bd by #bd in4 and the corners cut out for the top of the posts4 ,the top may be fastened as shown at ,a and ,b in the drawing1 or by cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and top4 ,before staining1 be sure that all surplus glue is scraped off and the surfaces sanded clean4 ,a weathered or fumed oak stain is suitable for this table4 ,a good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a little drop black ground in oil with turpentine and a little linseed oil4 ,put this stain on with a brush and allow to stand until it begins to flatten or dull1 then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of cotton waste4 ,when thoroughly dry1 apply one coat of very thin shellac4 ,after this has dried1 finish with two coats of wax4 ,the shellac prevents the turpentine in the wax from rubbing out the stain4 ,to get a good wax finish the work should dry until it will not show finger marks1 before rubbing4 ,,book ,,trough ,illustration3 ,detail of ,book ,trough ,a very cheap but attractive book trough is shown in the accompanying photograph4 ,this piece of mission furniture will be found useful in the home or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools4 ,the material should be either oak or chestnut1 which can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and mortises4 ,the stock needed will be as follows3 #b ends1 #g_/h in4 by #aj in4 by #ca in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #g_/h in4 by #aj in4 by #ce in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #b trough pieces1 #g_/h in4 by #d in4 by #ce in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h keys1 #e_/h in4 by #e_/h in4 by #c in4 ,illustration3 ,book ,trough ,complete ,the two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off and the lower end1 which is of simple design1 can be cut out with a bracket saw and smoothed with a wood rasp4 ,the mortises should then be laid out according to the sketch and cut1 by first boring #c_/d-;in4 holes and finishing with a chisel1 being careful to keep all edges clean and free from slivers4 ,the shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to fit the end pieces4 ,the space between the two tenons at each end can be cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp4 ,the key holes should be mortised as shown in the sketch4 ,the trough pieces are made in a similar manner1 care being taken to have all tenons and mortises perfectly square and a good fit1 so the trough when assembled will have a neat and workmanlike appearance4 ,the trough can be finished in any one of the many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,,an ,,oak ,,serving ,,table ,the serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made in mission style4 ,this table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained very light4 ,the stock order is as follows3 #b posts1 #b by #b by #cg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b posts1 #b by #b by #ca in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #a by #ba by #dj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b side rails1 #c_/d by #c by #cd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d end rails1 #c_/d by #c by #ae-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a back panel1 #c_/d by #d by #cd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #a by #e by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a slat1 #a_/b by #a-a_/b by #cf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,illustration3 ,serving ,table ,complete ,the four posts are ordered #a in4 longer than necessary for squaring to length and the two back posts should be chamfered #a_/d in4 on top1 as they are the longest and project above the back panel4 ,all of the posts are cut tapering for a space of #d in4 from the bottom ends4 ,mortises in the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions in the drawing4 ,these parts are then well glued and put together4 ,the top1 which should be of well seasoned wood1 is cut to fit around the back posts so the back edge and the back side of the posts are flush4 ,the back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners of the back posts4 ,this is done so the back surface of the panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top4 ,the slat is fastened with round-headed brass screws on the front of the two back posts about half way between the top and the ends of the posts4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,serving ,table ,the top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods4 ,one way is to use a small button made of wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and then fastened to the top with screws4 ,about six of these buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place4 ,the other method is to bore a hole slanting on the inside of the rails1 directing the bit toward the top1 which will make a seat--if not cut too deep--for a screw that can be turned direct into the top4 ,the glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain4 ,the directions for staining will be found on the can in which it is sold4 ,the grain of the wood will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after staining4 ,,an ,,umbrella ,,stand ,illustration ,the umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration will be found quite appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in mission style4 ,it can be made of any of the furniture woods1 but quarter-sawed oak gives the best results4 ,the stock necessary to make this stand can be secured from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded1 and is given in the following list3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d top rails1 #g_/h by #b by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d lower rails1 #g_/h by #c by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slats1 #c_/h by #c by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a bottom1 #g_/h by #aj by #aj in4 ,first square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail sketch4 ,place them side by side1 on a flat surface with the ends square and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the same time4 ,this will insure your getting them all straight and of the same height4 ,now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and cut them to fit the mortises in the posts4 ,mortises should also be cut in the rails for the ends of the side slats as shown4 ,try all the joints and see that they fit tight and square4 ,glue two sides of the stand together and let them dry for at least #bd hours1 then glue the remaining parts1 being careful to get everything together perfectly square4 ,the bottom board can now be fitted in place4 ,it should have a hole cut in it for the drip pan4 ,the pan should be about #f or #g in4 in diameter4 ,one suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store4 ,the bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the under side1 or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon4 ,illustration ,when the stand is complete1 scrape all glue from about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper1 removing all rough spots4 ,apply the finish you like best1 or the one that will match your other furniture4 ,should the builder want an entire hand-made stand1 the drip pan may be beaten into shape from sheet brass or copper4 ,this kind of work is known as repousse4 ,after beating the pan into shape1 it can be finished in antique1 old copper or given a polished surface1 as desired4 ,a ,,chafing-,,dish ,,buffet ,the chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for the dining room4 ,for the best effect it should be made of quartered oak1 stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass hardware4 ,illustration3 ,buffet in ,quartered ,oak ,to save a great deal of uninteresting labor1 secure the following pieces of stock1 surfaced on four sides and cut to length3 #d legs1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #cf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d rails1 #g_/h by #d by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #c by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b panels1 #c_/h by #i-c_/h by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a panel1 #c_/h by #f-a_/b by #i-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b shelves1 #g_/h by #ab by #ai in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #g_/h by #af by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b stiles for door1 #g_/h by #b by #ab in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails for door1 #g_/h by #c by #aj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back1 #g_/h by #ab by #ac in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h slats1 #c_/h by #a by #h in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand4 ,have them all squared up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and thickness4 ,mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw and chisel4 ,when this is finished1 try the legs to see that they are all the same length and that their surfaces are square with each other4 ,next mark the mortises in the legs for the tenons of the rails4 ,to make the mortises1 first bore to depth with a bit #a_/h in1 smaller than the width of the mortise and cut to the line with a chisel4 ,illustration3 ,method of ,fastening with ,screws ,before gluing up the sides1 cut the mortises in two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of the shelves4 ,these tenons1 with the smaller mortises in them for the keys1 should be cut first4 ,square up the two side panels and cut grooves #c_/h in4 wide and #a_/d in4 deep for them in the rails and part of the legs4 ,make the eight slats #h in4 long1 #a in4 wide and #c_/h in4 thick1 and cut mortises for them in the two upper rails4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,chafing-,dish ,buffet ,the two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped4 ,while the glue on these is setting1 make the door4 ,the rails are mortised into the stiles #a_/b in4 and both are grooved to receive the panel4 ,it is best to get the stock a little full for the door so that it may be made up a little larger than necessary and planed down to fit4 ,there only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back4 ,the top and back are held with screws as shown in sketch4 ,taper the keys only slightly1 otherwise they will keep working loose4 ,stain with two coats of weathered oak1 give one coat of thin shellac to fix the stain and two coats of wax for a soft-gloss finish4 ,a ,,writing ,,desk ,the desk shown in the illustration was made of plain-sawed white oak4 ,the copper lighting fixtures were made by the amateur as were the hinges and the drawer pulls4 ,the doors are fitted with art-glass panels4 ,the following stock list is needed3 #a top1 #c_/d by #bb-a_/b by #da in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d posts1 #b by #b by #ca in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #c_/d by #f-a_/d by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b rails1 #c_/d by #f-a_/d by #ce in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b rails1 #c_/d by #c-a_/d by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #c_/d by #c-a_/d by #ce in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d drawer sides1 #a_/b by #d-a_/d by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer backs1 #c_/h by #d by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #ai by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slides1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h guides1 #c_/d by #b by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b cabinet posts1 #a by #a by #af in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d cabinet posts1 #a by #a by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back1 #c_/d by #af by #ce in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #h by #ce in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b shelves1 #c_/d by #h by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d door pieces1 #e_/h by #a by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h door pieces1 #e_/h by #a by #d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,square the legs to length and lay out and cut the mortises thereon4 ,lay off the tenons on the rails1 after having squared the rails to length and width1 and cut them4 ,work up the top of the table and then the drawer stock and cabinet4 ,assemble the ends of the frame first1 using good hot glue and enough clamps to hold the parts together properly4 ,after the glue has hardened on these1 the clamps may be removed and the front1 back rails and the stretcher assembled4 ,illustration3 ,writing ,desk ,made of ,plain-,sawed ,oak ,while the glue is hardening on the main frame the top cabinet may be built and assembled4 ,this cabinet is detachable from the table proper and is to be held in place by means of cleats upon the back4 ,these cleats are not specified in the bill2 they may be obtained from scrap stock4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,writing ,desk ,for a piece of woodwork of this style some of the softer browns of the mission stains will be most appropriate4 ,after all parts have been thoroughly cleaned by scraping and sandpapering1 a stain may be applied4 ,allow this to dry1 then sand it lightly and apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,sand the shellac lightly and apply a filler of a color to match the stain1 but darker in tone1 of course4 ,clean off the surplus in the usual manner and then apply a coat of shellac4 ,sand this lightly and apply several coats of some good polishing wax4 ,,music ,,rack ,,and ,,bookstand ,the illustration shows a very handy music and bookstand1 which also can be used at the bedside as a reading stand4 ,the following list of material will be required for construction3 #a standard1 #a-a_/h by #a-a_/h by #cg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a horizontal1 #a-a_/h by #a-a_/h by #ae in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a crosspiece1 #a-a_/h by #a-a_/h by #ad in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a crosspiece1 #a-a_/h by #a-a_/h by #ab in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b braces1 #a-a_/h by #a-a_/h by #i in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a board1 #a_/b by #h by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d blocks1 #a-a_/h in4 square4 #b gauge clamps4 #a strip1 #a_/b by #a by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h round-head brass screws4 #a brass rod1 #a_/d in4 in diameter and #ab in1 long4 #a brass piece1 #a_/d by #c_/d by #aj in4 ,illustration3 ,complete ,stand ,cut a tenon on the lower end of the upright and make a mortise in the center of the long crosspiece to receive the tenon4 ,the horizontal has tenons cut on both ends which fit into mortises cut in the sides of both crosspieces4 ,the upper corners on the ends of both crosspieces are cut sloping on a #de-;deg4 angle4 ,the blocks for the feet are attached to the under side and at the end on each crosspiece with screws and hot glue1 the screw heads being sunk so that they will not catch on carpets or mar the floor4 ,the braces are attached with round-head screws after they are cut on each end to fit the standard and crosspiece4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,stand ,the book rest is cut from the board4 ,the openings are made by sawing the pieces out with a coping saw1 and the edges are dressed up with a sharp chisel4 ,the lip strip is then glued to the lower edge of the board4 ,one end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut in one of the gauge clamps4 ,the slot must be cut at the right angle to give the desired slope to the book rest4 ,the gauge clamps are joined with two small square strips of oak as shown4 ,the small rod brace is flattened at both ends and a hole drilled in each to fasten it with screws as shown4 ,the brass strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled to receive screws for fastening it in the corner of the upright and horizontal pieces4 ,a ,,dictionary ,,and ,,magazine ,,stand ,the accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for holding a large-size dictionary4 ,the shelves may be utilized for holding books1 magazines or sheet music4 ,it will stand wear best if made of some hard wood1 such as oak4 ,of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain for finishing1 being hardly distinguishable from red oak4 ,the following pieces will be necessary3 #b sides1 #c_/d by #af by #ch-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ae-a_/b by #ba in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ad by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/d by #ac-a_/b by #ba in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a top1 #c_/d by #ac by #ag in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a lip1 #c_/h by #c_/d by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h keys1 #c_/d by #a by #c-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner surfaces to indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves4 ,next1 smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves and square them to size on one edge and the two ends4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,dictionary and ,magazine ,stand ,illustration3 ,stand ,made in ,oak ,return to the side pieces and lay out the outline1 but do not cut to these lines until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends of the shelves and their tenons have been laid out and cut4 ,laying out these outlines at this time is done so as to give the exact width the shelves are to have4 ,these dimensions can be determined by measuring across the sides between the outlines at the points where the shelves are to be placed4 ,the shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides #a_/d in4 ,they should be shouldered #a_/b in4 back from the edge so that the groove will not show on the face4 ,the lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened by means of very small brads1 the heads of which should be covered with putty1 colored to match the finish4 ,a suitable finish may be obtained as follows3 ,first see that all the mill marks are removed1 using a smooth plane and steel scraper and sandpaper1 then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water stain4 ,when dry1 sandpaper lightly1 using ,no4 #jj paper4 ,apply a second coat of stain1 diluting it by the addition of an equal volume of water4 ,this is to produce a stronger contrast4 ,sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat of shellac to bind the filler and to prevent the stain in the filler which follows from discoloring the high lights4 ,sand this lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to the directions that will be found on the can4 ,this filler should be colored in the following proportions3 ,light paste filler1 #bj lb42 ,van ,dyke brown1 #a lb4 ,after the filler has hardened1 sand it lightly and put on a coat of orange shellac4 ,follow this with several coats of some good rubbing varnish4 ,the first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair1 and the last with powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil4 ,a ,,leather ,,back ,,arm ,,chair ,illustration3 ,arm ,chair ,complete ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,arm ,chair ,a mission arm chair of simple design and construction is shown in the accompanying illustration4 ,this chair is suitable for any room of the house and can be made of wood to match other furniture4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the wood most generally used1 and it is also very easy to obtain4 ,the stock can be ordered from the mill1 cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,following is a list of the material that will be needed3 #b front legs1 #b by #b by #bf-c_/d in4 #b back legs1 #b by #d by #dc in4 #b arm rests1 #a by #d by #bf in4 #e rails1 #c_/d by #d by #ba-a_/b in4 #e rails1 #c_/d by #b by #b-a_/b in4 4 #b back pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #af-a_/b in4 #a piece leather1 #ca in1 square4 #a piece burlap1 #bh in1 square4 #b pieces leather1 #ac by #ah in4 #b pieces burlap1 #ac by #ah in4 #a box #h oz4 tacks4 #e-a_/b doz4 ornamental nails4 ,start with the front legs4 ,cut a tenon #a-a_/d in4 square and #c_/d in1 long on one end to fit the arm rests4 ,the mortises for the side rails are cut #a_/b in4 wide and #g_/h in1 deep4 ,the tenons on the rails are cut to fit these mortises1 care being taken to get them all the same length between shoulders4 ,the back legs are cut with an offset of #b in4 as shown in the detail drawing and also have mortises cut in them for the back crosspieces4 ,the upright pieces in the back are fastened into the crosspieces by means of tenons and mortises1 and should be in place when the crosspieces are fastened to the legs4 ,the arms are cut from the #a by #d by #bf-;in4 pieces4 ,be careful to get them so they will pair4 ,the outside edge can be either curved or straight as desired4 ,the front ends of the arms are held in place by mortises which fit over the tenons on the ends of the front legs1 while the back ends are held in place by round-headed screws as shown4 ,the chair is now ready to be glued4 ,be sure to get the parts together perfectly square1 and when dry scrape off all surplus glue around the joints1 for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing to remove it4 ,go over the parts carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough marks4 ,then apply the stain you wish to use4 ,to make the seat1 first fit boards in the bottom and nail them to the side rails as shown4 ,fill the space with hair or elastic cotton felt to about #c in4 above the edge of the rails4 ,bind this down tightly with a piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails4 ,cut out the corners of the burlap so that it will fit about the posts4 ,put the leather on over this and tack the edges to the bottoms of the rails4 ,then finish with the ornamental nails as shown4 ,to finish the back1 first tack a piece of burlap over the opening1 then place a layer of hair or cotton felt on this about #a in4 thick4 ,stretch the leather over this and fasten with ornamental nails4 ,the back side is finished in the same manner1 except that the hair is omitted4 ,a ,,wall ,,shelf ,coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and take a more satisfactory finish than close-grained woods4 ,for this reason chestnut or oak is suggested for this shelf4 ,chestnut has a beautiful grain and is soft and easily worked4 ,there will be needed the following pieces3 ,sides1 #b pieces1 #c_/d by #g-a_/d by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,lower shelf1 #a piece1 #c_/d by #f-a_/d by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,upper shelf1 #a piece1 #c_/d by #d-c_/d by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,lower back1 #a piece1 #c_/h by #c-a_/b by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,upper back1 #a piece1 #c_/h by #c by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,in making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified #a_/d in4 wider and #a_/b in1 longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for squaring up4 ,the thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all that is necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two broad surfaces4 ,it is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a particular set of books to place in the shelf4 ,in such a case the length of the horizontals should be lengthened or shortened to meet the particular demands when ordering the lumber4 ,illustration3 ,complete ,wall ,shelf ,begin work by squaring the horizontals to size4 ,they are to be all of the same length4 ,next shape up the end pieces4 ,the amount of slope for the front edges is indicated on the drawing4 ,after all these pieces have been squared up and the mill-marks removed1 the dadoes or grooves and gains may be laid out and cut4 ,beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the mill-marks off before putting on any finish4 ,when boards are planed at the mill the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving above or below the board--sometimes both above and below at the same time4 ,these knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and hollows across the grain4 ,these hollows1 though they are hardly visible to the eye on the unfinished surface1 show up as ugly streaks upon the surface after it has had a finish of stain and filler applied4 ,the joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how they are to be made from any good book on wood-working4 ,illustration3 ,wall ,shelf ,detail ,there are several ways of fastening the parts4 ,they may be fastened by means of round-head blued screws4 ,they may be fastened with carriage screws4 ,the one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent old-fashioned hand-wrought nails4 ,it will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before the parts are assembled4 ,a suitable finish is obtained as follows3 ,after the parts are thoroughly sanded1 put on a coat of ,filipino water stain1 wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the wood very much4 ,allow this to dry4 ,then sand lightly1 using ,no4 #jj paper1 after which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste filler--directions will be found on the can4 ,follow this1 when hardened1 with several coats of floor wax4 ,a ,,pedestal ,the pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of furniture that can be made in the mission style4 ,it is very simple in design and construction1 and can be made by anyone who has a few simple tools and a slight knowledge of their use4 ,it is best to make it of quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also looks the best when finished4 ,if you order the material from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded1 much hard labor will be saved4 ,following is a list of the material needed3 #a top1 #c_/d by #ab by #ab in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #a bottom1 #c_/d by #ab by #ab in41 ,s-#a-,s #h pieces1 #c_/d by #b by #aa in4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #e by #bf in41 ,s-#a-,s4 #b sides1 #c_/d by #c-a_/b by #bf in4 #a piece1 #c_/d by #f by #f in4 #d blocks1 #a in4 square4 ,illustration3 ,completed ,pedestal ,having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square1 nail them together as shown in the detail drawing4 ,use finishing nails1 then set the heads and fill the holes with putty4 ,next1 nail the #c_/d by #f-;in4 piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all sides4 ,pick out the best board for the top4 ,on the under side and #a_/b4 in4 in from the edges1 nail four of the #c_/d by #b by #aa-;in4 pieces which have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view4 ,now fasten this top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top piece into the top board4 ,be careful to get this top on square with the post and exactly in center4 ,the bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is nailed to the lower end of the post as shown4 ,four #a-;in4 square blocks should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on4 ,when complete1 sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose4 ,illustration ,after staining the wood1 the surface can be given a polished or dull finish1 as desired4 ,mission furniture requires a dull finish1 and this may be obtained by applying a coat of wax1 well rubbed on the wood4 ,,magazine ,,rack ,the accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its rich1 massive appearance when properly finished4 ,it is so constructed that each piece may be polished1 stained and finished before it is finally put together4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use4 ,plain-sawed oak looks well1 but it is more liable to warp than quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones here used4 ,following is a list of the material needed3 #d posts1 #b by #b by #dj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #e shelves1 #a by #ad by #bd in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #bj ,f4,h4 screws1 #b in4 long4 ,considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,the corner posts should be made first4 ,the most convenient and accurate method of laying out the mortises is to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench flat1 with the squared ends even with each other2 then clamp them securely and lay out the mortises on one side across all four pieces at once2 then loosen the clamp and project the marks to the other side with a try-square4 ,now saw along these marks1 making each cut just deep enough to bring the mortises diagonally across the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as shown in the detail sketch4 ,be careful not to get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick4 ,bevel the tops of the posts as shown4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,magazine ,rack ,illustration3 ,magazine ,rack ,complete ,see that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth1 then set a scratch gauge so that the scriber is just #b in4 from the face of the block and mark this distance off each way from the corner of the shelves4 ,saw these corners diagonally across as shown1 being careful not to saw off too much4 ,the parts can now be assembled4 ,place all the parts in position1 then pass a rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick4 ,if this is properly done1 you can now pick up the rack and handle it in any way you wish4 ,the screws can now be put in the corners4 ,you can use flat-head screws and plug the holes1 or you can use round-head blue screws and let the heads project4 ,after the screws are all in1 dress off all unevenness where the shelves are mortised into the posts1 then mark each shelf and post so that you can put it together again after the parts are finished4 ,take the rack apart and transfer the marks to some part of the mortises and shelves that will not be covered with the finish you intend to put on4 ,apply the finish you wish to use and when the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and your rack will be complete4 ,a ,,hall ,,tree ,when making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use quarter-sawed oak if possible1 as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains4 ,this is a very useful and attractive piece of mission furniture and is also very easy to construct4 ,the stock can be purchased ready cut to length1 mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list3 #a post1 #b by #b by #ei in4 #d posts1 #b by #b by #aj in4 #h braces1 #g_/h by #b by #g-a_/b in4 #d arms1 #g_/h by #b by #e-c_/d in4 ,illustration3 ,detail and ,finished ,view of ,hall ,tree ,first square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown4 ,then cut the mortises making them #a_/b in4 wide and #g_/h in4 deep4 ,cut the tenons on the braces to fit these mortises4 ,be careful to get the distance between the shoulders of the braces all of the same length4 ,a good way to do this is to place them all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and lay them all out at once4 ,the top arms can be made in the same manner4 ,the tenons should fit good and tight in all the posts4 ,the parts can now be glued and clamped together4 ,when they are dry1 scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper1 removing all rough spots4 ,apply the finish you like best or the one that will match your other furniture4 ,purchase a few hooks at a hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown1 and the hall tree is complete4 ,a ,,table ,,for ,,the ,,den ,the table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for the den2 it might be used in any other part of the house as well4 ,it may be built of plain-sawed red oak1 or of quarter-sawed white oak4 ,the wood should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections4 ,order the material as follows3 #a top piece1 #c_/d in4 thick by #cf in4 square1 ,s-#b-,s4 #d legs1 #b-a_/b in4 square by #cj in4 long1 ,s-#d-,s4 #b upper horizontals1 #a-a_/h by #b by #cf in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b lower horizontals1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #ce in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d keys1 #a_/b by #a by #e in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,lay out and cut the circular top first4 ,next cut the four legs to length4 ,to get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons1 lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel along these lines1 adjusting the parts to the lines4 ,illustration3 ,table ,completed ,the top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts to set in4 ,this is to give the frame more rigidity4 ,the lower horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed4 ,that the keys may be alike in size1 a good plan is to make them first1 then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond4 ,work the keys to the proper thickness1 unless they were ordered so1 then to length and joint one edge straight and square4 ,next lay off across the key the lines ,a and ,b of the drawing so that ,a shall measure #a_/b in4 and ,b #c_/h in4 ,draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the key to size and shape4 ,round the top of the key as shown4 ,then mortise1 in the tenon1 for the key can then be laid out to #a_/b in4 for the top opening and #c_/h in4 for the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,detail of a ,den ,table ,the most satisfactory finish for mission designs1 and the easiest to apply1 is wax4 ,it is an old finish that was superseded by varnish4 ,our ancestors used to make wax polish by cutting beeswax with turpentine4 ,cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of turpentine4 ,heat to the boiling point in a double boiler4 ,or1 melt a quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine4 ,care must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire4 ,rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days4 ,they require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result4 ,too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly1 white1 chalk-like spottings as the wax dries4 ,these are especially noticeable upon dark finishes4 ,waxes colored black overcome this1 but are not necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied4 #a--,stain the wood1 if a very dark finish is desired4 #b--;,if the wood is coarse grained1 put on one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully1 that a smooth surface may be prepared4 ,allow the stain #ab hours in which to dry1 also each coat of filler4 #c--,with a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax as can be and still cover the wood4 ,wax is in paste form4 #d--;,allow this to stand five or ten minutes1 then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish4 #e--,let stand #bd hours1 then apply another coat4 ,illustration3 ,,window ,,seat ,fig4 #a--,the ,rough ,cedar ,box ,without the ,covering ,a ,,burlap-,,covered ,,window ,,seat ,a portable window seat of neat appearance1 which is designed to take the place of a cedar chest1 is shown in the accompanying sketch4 ,if care is taken to make the joints fit well1 the box will be practically airtight and mothproof1 providing a place in which to store extra bedding or furs4 ,the following list of materials will be needed3 #cf ft4 #a-;in4 thick cedar boards for the box4 #a piece pine1 #b by #b in4 by #ab ft4 long4 #cb ft4 of #a_/d by #b-;in4 oak strips4 #ed ft4 of #a_/d by #a-;in4 oak strips4 #af doz4 ,r4,h4 #c_/d-;in1 long brass screws4 #a piece green burlap1 #bd by #dh in4 #b pieces green burlap1 #bj by #dd in4 #b pieces green burlap1 #bj by #bj in4 #bj pieces red burlap1 #c-a_/d in4 square4 ,the box as shown in ,fig4 #a is made first4 ,nail the sides and the bottom to the ends1 being careful to get the box perfectly square4 ,the corners can be dovetailed together if desired4 ,the extra time it takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box4 ,the box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts #b in4 square placed on the inside4 ,cleats should also be placed on the inside1 at the bottom1 as shown4 ,fasten four blocks1 #b in4 square1 to the bottom for the box to rest upon4 ,these can be attached with long screws run through from the bottom of the box4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b--;,design of the ,covering ,strip ,put on ,over the ,burlap ,the green burlap is glued to the outside of the box4 ,be careful not to apply too much glue on the burlap1 or it will soak through4 ,this should be tried out on a scrap piece1 and when the proper application of glue is ascertained1 applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box4 ,place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all sides4 ,the oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit4 ,after the miters are all cut and the location of the squares1 found1 they are marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before the slats are fastened permanently4 ,the slats are put in place over the burlap and fastened with small brass screws4 ,cover the top or lid with green burlap1 allowing the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips4 ,this top can be stuffed with excelsior1 if desired1 and tacks with large heads driven in to hold it in place4 ,the slats can be stained any color to suit the maker4 ,they should be removed from the box when being stained so as not to spot or stain the burlap4 ,,quarter-,,sawed ,,oak ,,settee ,the mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak4 ,the material needed will be as follows3 #d posts1 #c-a_/d by #c-a_/d by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d end rails1 #a-a_/b by #e by #cb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #ab end slats1 #e_/h by #c-a_/b by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a front rail1 #a-a_/b by #g by #hg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a lower back rail1 #a-a_/b by #i by #hg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a upper back rail1 #a-a_/b by #ab by #hg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b cleats for seat frame1 #a-a_/b by #b by #hb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b cleats for seat frame1 #a-a_/b by #b by #cb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,illustration3 ,mission ,settee ,made of ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,on account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of this settee1 it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before putting them together1 otherwise shrinkage will cause them to crack open4 ,begin work by making the ends of the settee first4 ,cut the posts to length1 chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter or cause injury to the hands4 ,next lay out and cut the mortises as shown on the drawing4 ,with the posts finished1 lay out the end rails1 cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are to be fitted4 ,it should be noted that the drawing calls for the setting in of the whole of the ends of the slats1 there being no shoulders4 ,this is much easier and gives just as satisfactory a result1 provided the sides of the mortises are carefully cut4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends together4 ,in addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons and mortises4 ,these pins may be put in flush and permanent on the ends of the settee4 ,on the side rails1 however1 the pins are to be allowed to project so that they can be removed1 and no glue is used in the joint4 ,while the glue of the ends is hardening1 prepare the rails of front and back4 ,scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from the ends put the whole frame together4 ,the ends of all projecting tenons are chamfered4 ,the illustration shows a loose leather cushion4 ,there is quite a variety of materials out of which such a cushion can be made4 ,the best1 of course1 is leather4 ,in the highest class of furniture where loose cushions are used1 the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame together on which is woven a heavy cane seating4 ,this in turn is fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture1 and the cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat4 ,the stock bill for this settee calls for such a frame4 ,wood slats may be substituted if desired4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,oak ,settee ,this piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak4 ,see that all glue is removed from the surface1 and that the wood is clean and smooth1 and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain4 ,sandpaper this lightly with ,no4 #jj paper when the stain has thoroughly dried1 and put on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent4 ,a ,,screen ,in selecting or making up mission furniture for the home1 a screen is necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room4 ,the screen shown in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are easily put together4 ,the stock can be bought of any planing mill planed1 sanded and cut to the proper lengths4 ,the cloth1 which should be of dark color1 can be purchased at a dry goods store4 ,the following list of material will be needed4 #f posts1 #a in4 square by #fe in4 #f rails1 #c_/d in4 square by #ah in4 #f rails1 #a_/b in4 square by #ah in4 #c panels1 #a_/d by #c by #ah in4 #f yd4 of cloth4 #d double-acting hinges4 #b doz4 #b-a_/b-;in4 slender screws4 ,cut or plow a groove #a_/d in4 wide and #a_/d in4 deep in the center of one surface on each of the #c_/d-;in4 rails4 ,cut out the ends with a compass saw4 ,the five holes are bored with a #a-;in4 bit4 ,the edges of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the #c_/d-;in4 rails1 using plenty of good glue4 ,when the glue has dried for at least #bd hours the screen frame can be put together4 ,holes for the screws should be bored through the posts where the #c_/d-;in4 rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain of each rail4 ,scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well4 ,when this is done the finish can be applied4 ,any one of the mission stains can be used and finished with wax and polished4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,one ,section ,the cloth is cut to length1 a hem sewed on each end and one #a_/b-;in4 rail put through each hem4 ,place the top rail in position and screw it fast4 ,stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower #a_/b-;in4 rail with screws at the bottom4 ,each section of the screen is finished in the same way4 ,the hinges are attached about #d in4 from each end of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door4 ,the sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder4 ,instead of using cloth1 heavy paste-board1 or board made up to take the place of plaster on walls of dwellings1 may be substituted1 thus forming a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations4 ,a piece of this material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section4 ,illustration3 ,screen of ,three ,sections ,a ,,mission ,,bookrack ,the accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission lines4 ,enough stock may be found among the scrap1 as no piece is over #a in1 in width or thickness4 ,if stock is not on hand1 secure the following1 cut to exact lengths3 #b stretchers1 #a by #a by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d posts1 #a by #a by #g-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d rails1 #a by #a by #g in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #h slats1 #a_/b by #a_/b by #c-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number both parts of each joint4 ,there will be twelve lap joints1 and great care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half the depth of each piece4 ,first fit the posts and rails of the ends4 ,to mark the width of each notch1 lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size4 ,knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge lines for the depth of each notch4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,bookrack ,next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends4 ,in each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the rails #a_/d in4 ,glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews4 ,a rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring of the surface upon which the rack is to rest4 ,illustration3 ,the ,complete ,bookrack ,mission1 weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well4 ,a waxed finish should be used4 ,before applying the wax1 it is well to use a very thin coat of shellac as a foundation4 ,let this coat stand for a few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax4 ,should the rack wind a little1 it may be remedied by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks4 ,a ,,round ,,extension ,,dining ,,table ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,table ,this extension table should be made of some hard wood1 preferably white oak4 ,it will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock4 ,it will be possible1 however1 to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores4 ,if the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well1 the lighter weight1 due to the white-pine core1 being an advantage4 ,the circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this4 ,order the following stock3 #d legs1 #c by #c by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a leg1 #e by #e by #cj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d rails1 #a-a_/h by #e by #bc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d facing segments1 #a-a_/h by #c-a_/d in4 on a #bd-;in4 radius4 #a top1 #a-a_/h in4 thick on a #bg-;in4 radius1 ,s-#b-,s2 #c extra boards1 #a-a_/h by #ab by #ee in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d slides1 #a-a_/h by #b-c_/d by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s1 maple4 #b slides1 #a-a_/d by #b-c_/d by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s1 maple4 #d frame pieces1 #g_/h by #c by #i in41 ,s-#d-,s1 maple4 #b frame pieces1 #g_/h by #f by #bh in41 ,s-#d-,s1 maple4 #b frame pieces1 #g_/h by #d by #bc-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s1 maple4 ,illustration3 ,table for the ,dining-,room ,set ,there are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other4 ,several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial manufacturers4 ,the amateur will do well to secure a set before he undertakes to work these slides to shape4 ,prepare the legs by cutting them to length4 ,lay out and work the mortises4 ,the ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the posts4 ,prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower edges as shown in the drawing4 ,prepare the top4 ,after this1 assemble this much of the frame1 using plenty of clamps and good hot glue4 ,next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown4 ,there will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it is fastened to the top1 etc4 ,for a finish1 apply a filler colored1 as desired4 ,upon this1 after it has hardened and been sanded with ,no4 #jj paper1 apply a coat of shellac4 ,upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing varnish4 ,rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil4 ,if an effect is wanted that will contrast1 stain the wood first with a water stain4 ,sand this lightly when dry1 then apply a second coat of stain diluted one-half with water4 ,again sand and then apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,sand this lightly1 and apply the filler and the varnish as described above4 ,,an ,,arm ,,dining ,,chair ,illustration3 ,armchair of the ,dining-,room ,set ,this armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak4 ,quarter-sawed oak might be used1 or black walnut if desired4 ,the stock bill specifies the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible4 ,if some amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing1 thereby saving somewhat on the expense1 he should add #a_/d in4 to the width of each piece1 providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness4 ,it is hardly profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done by hand4 ,the following is the stock bill3 #b front posts1 #a-c_/d by #a-c_/d by #be in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a piece for back posts1 #a-c_/d by #f by #dc in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b arm pieces1 #g_/h by #d by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b seat rails1 #a by #b-a_/b by #bb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b seat rails1 #a by #b-a_/b by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d lower side rails1 #e_/h by #a-a_/b by #bb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b front and back lower rails1 #e_/h by #b-c_/d by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #bd in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b slats1 #c_/h by #b by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a slat1 #c_/h by #d-a_/b by #af-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b braces1 #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #e-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,the design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is the same4 ,also the back leg parallels the front below the seat4 ,in commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well as above4 ,as this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by machinery4 ,the ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring common chairs4 ,for mission effects the chair looks well with front and back the same width4 ,prepare the front posts first and then the rear4 ,the rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of stock specified4 ,by proper planning both pieces may be gotten out without trouble4 ,lay off and cut the mortises4 ,saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons4 ,the back rails are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats4 ,instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive the whole end--in other words1 house the ends4 ,shape the two arms1 then glue up the back and then the front of the chair4 ,after the glue has set sufficiently1 assemble the remainder of the parts4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,armchair ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish4 ,for a seat1 either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner1 using webbing on heavy canvas1 and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather2 the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental nails4 ,a ,,hall ,,bench ,all the stock for this bench should be of #g_/h-;in4 oak1 excepting the slats1 which may be of a cheaper wood4 ,the following list of lumber will be required to build it3 #d slats1 #g_/h by #d by #ag in41 cheap wood4 #b cleats1 #g_/h by #a by #bf in41 cheap wood4 #d end rails1 #g_/h by #b by #af-a_/d in41 oak1 ,s-#b-,s4 #b ends1 #g_/h by #af by #af-a_/d in41 oak1 ,s-#b-,s4 #b sides1 #g_/h by #d by #be in41 oak1 ,s-#b-,s4 #b pieces1 #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #be in41 oak1 ,s-#b-,s4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,hall ,bench ,start the work by first cutting the two pieces of #g_/h by #e-a_/b by #be-;in4 material diagonally #a in4 from each corner1 thus making the legs4 ,the edges are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that there will be no splinters projecting4 ,the legs are mortised #a in4 deep for the side rails4 ,the tenon ends are cut on the rails1 care being taken to get the right angle and a good fit4 ,these can now be fastened together1 using hot glue on the entire surface of the joint4 ,illustration3 ,bench ,made of ,plain ,oak ,while these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan4 ,the #c by #d-;in4 holes are cut at equal distances apart4 ,be sure that each end is perfectly square1 then glue and dowel the #b-;in4 strips at each end4 ,the ends are then glued and nailed to the sides1 using finishing nails1 which are set and the holes filled with colored putty4 ,the cleats are now fastened1 extra care being taken when fastening them over the joints where the legs receive the side rails1 as this will help to strengthen the joints4 ,the slats rest on these cleats and are placed at equal distances apart4 ,the bench is now finished1 but before applying the stain1 see that all parts are free from glue and are well sandpapered4 ,the leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize with the finish4 ,a ,,sewing ,,table ,this convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman4 ,it has two drawers for sewing material1 and two drop leaves to spread the work upon4 ,the following list of material will be needed for its construction4 ,the sizes given are exact1 so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed and squared1 a slight allowance must be made for this4 #d posts1 #a-a_/d by #a-a_/d by #bg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #i rails1 #g_/h by #b by #ad-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a top1 #g_/h by #ah by #ah in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b leaves1 #g_/h by #aj by #ah in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #e by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d drawer sides1 #c_/h by #e by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer backs1 #c_/h by #d-a_/h by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #ab-c_/d by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d drawer slides1 #g_/h by #b by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #c panels1 #c_/h by #i-c_/h by #ad in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b brackets1 #g_/h by #c by #d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other4 ,the ends must be square with all surfaces1 but need not be planed smooth as neither will be seen in the finished table4 ,illustration3 ,sewing ,table in ,plain ,oak ,arrange the rails in position4 ,the two rails in each side and back are placed with the #b-;in4 surface out1 while the three in the front have the #b-;in4 surface up for the drawers to slide upon4 ,mark the tenons1 #a in1 by #c_/h in41 with a knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for the sides and back4 ,mark the tenons1 #c_/d in4 by #g_/h in41 as shown in the sketch1 on each end of front rails4 ,cut all the tenons with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,sewing ,table ,carefully mark the mortises in the legs1 taking measurements for each mortise from the tenon which is to go into it4 ,fit together all rails and legs without glue to detect any errors4 ,see that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the surfaces smooth4 ,mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back rails and legs4 ,cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth of #a_/d in4 ,glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first4 ,while the glue is setting1 square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly4 ,now glue up the whole table1 having set in the front and back rails and panel4 ,the drawer slides1 two on each side1 should next be put in4 ,a nail through them and into each leg will hold them1 as there is only the weight of the drawers resting on them4 ,fasten the top with screws through the rails from the under side4 ,the leaves are attached with two #b-;in4 butt hinges which must be set in flush with the under surface to prevent a crack showing between the table top and leaf when the latter is raised4 ,the small bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf4 ,illustration3 ,construction of the ,drawer ,the drawers are now made4 ,allow the side to lap over the front #a_/b in4 as shown in sketch and fasten it with nails4 ,the bottom should be let into the sides and front #a_/d in41 but must not be nailed to them1 because this would cause the drawer to stick1 when the bottom expands4 ,metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls4 ,stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is wanted1 or with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a highly polished surface4 ,a ,,side ,,chair ,a companion piece to the chair with arms and the sideboard is the side chair illustrated herewith4 ,it should be made of the same kind of wood and finished to correspond with the armchair4 ,order the following stock list3 #b front posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #ah-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a piece for back posts1 #a-a_/b by #e-a_/b by #ch-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d seat rails1 #a by #b by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d lower side rails1 #e_/h by #a-a_/d by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b lower front and back rails1 #e_/h by #b-a_/b by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #c_/d by #b-a_/d by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #c_/d by #b by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a slat1 #c_/h by #c by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b slats1 #c_/h by #a-a_/b by #ac-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,square up the front posts to length4 ,from the single piece specified cut out the back posts1 giving them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing4 ,set these four posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another in the finished piece1 and mark off1 as with penciled circles1 the approximate locations of mortises4 ,after this1 lay them on the bench side by side1 even the lower ends and locate accurately the ends of the mortises4 ,gauge their sides4 ,saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of the tenons and cut them4 ,plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails4 ,illustration3 ,side ,chair of ,dining-,room ,set ,while the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal width1 the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires4 ,a measurement of a common chair will give the proportions4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,side ,chair ,place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had time to harden1 assemble the remaining parts4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts1 carefully removing any surplus glue4 ,wood finish will not take hold where any glue has been allowed to remain4 ,the seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair4 ,this should not be done1 however1 until the finish has been applied4 ,a simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler of a soft brown color1 if oak has been used4 ,apply and clean this off in the manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had #bd hours in which to harden1 sand it lightly with ,no4 #jj paper4 ,over this apply a thin coat of shellac4 ,allow this to harden1 then sandpaper lightly with fine paper4 ,upon the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing wax4 ,follow the directions that are to be found upon the cans1 being careful not to apply too much at a time4 ,if too much wax is applied1 it stays in the small pores of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like appearance4 ,,another ,,piano ,,bench ,the piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be finished in the natural color for walnut1 but stained some rich brown for oak4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #a top1 #a by #ae-a_/b by #ch-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b legs1 #a by #ad-a_/b by #bj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #c-c_/d by #cf-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a stretcher1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #cg in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,the keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the other parts4 ,square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the working drawing4 ,in a similar manner square up the stretcher to width and length4 ,there will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be cut off on a slant4 ,square up the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting ends1 smoothing them with the plane4 ,lay off and work the shape on their under edges4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,piano ,bench ,the ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a piece of rather heavy paper will do4 ,lay off the main dimensions on a center line4 ,sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been laid out4 ,lay out the form at the bottom1 then fold the paper along the center line and trace the other half4 ,with this pattern lay off the outline upon the wood4 ,for convenience in laying out the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the tenon on the stretcher1 it is well to work a face edge upon each leg and allow this to remain until these joints have been made and the parts fitted4 ,the shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive and may be modified as desired4 ,lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher4 ,then lay out and work the grooves upon the rails4 ,each side of each rail is grooved #a_/h in1 to allow the leg to be recessed4 ,this is done to give the bench the bracing that is needed to make it stand firmly4 ,work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for the rails4 ,illustration3 ,piano ,bench in ,quarter-,sawed ,oak ,it should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be laid out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is made are cut off4 ,otherwise there would be no place to put the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise for the key4 ,thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them4 ,no glue is needed4 ,the rails are held in place by dowel pins1 the heads of which are allowed to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental effect4 ,the top is attached by means of small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws fastened to the corners made by top and rails4 ,,another ,,screen ,the screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and plain-sawed oak4 ,the stock list follows3 #b posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #dj in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b base pieces1 #c by #c by #ab-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b horizontals1 #c_/d by #d-a_/d by #ch in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a horizontal1 #c_/d by #a-a_/b by #ch in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a vertical1 #c_/d by #a-c_/d by #bj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d braces1 #a-a_/h by #d-a_/d by #f-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,the two base pieces may be shaped first4 ,the drawing shows the form and the dimensions4 ,make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the base pieces for the uprights1 before these face edges are removed to make the slanting sides4 ,work the verticals to length1 laying out and cutting the tenons at the bottoms1 and shaping the tops as shown4 ,lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown1 working the tenons upon the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the middle vertical4 ,for the braces1 secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of each to that4 ,lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out4 ,use this block as a pattern or template to lay off the others4 ,thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts1 then assemble them1 using clamps and good hot glue4 ,take care to see that there is no warp in the frame as it lies in the clamps4 ,after the glue on the frame has hardened1 remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces4 ,the braces are secured by means of round-head screws4 ,illustration3 ,plain-,oak ,frame with ,burlap ,panels ,remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired4 ,for the paneling1 frames will be needed about which to fasten the burlap4 ,these may be made of #a_/b-;in1 soft wood and the following pieces will be necessary3 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #b by #cf in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b pieces1 #a_/b by #b by #h in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d pieces1 #a_/b by #b by #ah in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d pieces1 #a_/b by #b by #ai in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to allow for burlap and tacks4 ,these frames are held in place by putting fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached4 ,holes are bored in the rails to correspond to them4 ,the lower edges of the frames are held in place by nails inserted up through the rails upon which the frames rest4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,frame ,a ,,folding ,,card ,,table ,the accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use4 ,we would advise making two tables at the same time1 as the material for both can be purchased nearly as cheaply as for one4 ,the material necessary for making one table is given in the following list3 #a piece1 #g_/h by #a-c_/af by #bg-a_/b in41 basswood or poplar4 #b pieces1 #g_/h by #a-c_/af by #bi-a_/d in41 basswood or poplar4 #d legs1 #a in4 square1 #bd-c_/d in4 long2 oak4 #d pieces1 #a in4 square1 #e in4 long2 oak4 #d side pieces1 #c_/h by #a-c_/h by #bi-e_/h in42 oak4 #d pieces1 #bg-a_/b in4 long1 single groove electric wire moulding with batten4 #a piece cardboard1 #a_/h in4 thick1 #bi-a_/d in4 square4 #d pieces brass rod1 #c-af in4 diameter1 #ae in4 long4 #cj small copper washers1 #c_/h or #g_/af in4 outside diameter and drilled #c_/af in4 #d brass corners1 #a-c_/h in1 deep4 #b-a_/b doz4 ,no4 #e oval head brass screws1 #c_/d in4 long4 #d ,no4 #b1 #g_/h-;in4 rubber screw tips4 #a piece felt1 #a yd4 square4 #a sheet wadding1 #a yd4 square 7if pad is wanted under felt74 #a pt4 wood stain4 #c doz4 ,no4 #ad wire beads1 #b in4 long4 ,some #b-oz41 #d-oz41 and #f-oz4 flat-head tacks4 ,begin by squaring up the four legs making them all #bd-c_/d in4 long and #a in4 square4 ,also square up the crosspieces marked ,b in the detail drawing4 ,these should be #e in4 long and should have #a_/d-;in4 holes about #a in4 deep drilled in both ends of each for the #a_/d-;in4 oak swivel pins4 ,measure back #a-a_/b in4 from one end of each and bore a #i_/af-;in4 hole1 #g_/h in4 deep as shown4 ,now cut a tenon on one end of each leg1 #c_/d in4 long1 that will fit tightly in this #i_/af-;in4 hole4 ,round the corners of the piece ,b at the top as shown at ,c4 ,fasten the two pieces together with glue and brads1 being careful to get them square with each other4 ,after the glue is set bore a #c_/af-;in4 hole in the center of the leg1 #g in4 from the edge of the crosspiece1 for the brace rod4 ,bevel the corners as shown4 ,sandpaper them smooth1 then stain and polish4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,card ,table ,illustration3 ,card ,table ,ready for ,use ,lay the two pieces marked ,d and ,e in the sketch on a level surface with the #g_/h-;in4 edge up1 place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces1 using #f-oz4 tacks4 ,place the center piece in and tack it fast also4 ,fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads4 ,the four pieces of electric wire moulding should each measure exactly #bg-a_/b in4 long1 or the same length as the center piece4 ,fit a piece of wood about #d in4 long in the groove at each end of the moulding1 plane down and fasten with brads4 ,next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with the moulding and bore a #a_/b-;in4 hole in the center1 #f in1 from one end1 and a #a_/d-;in4 hole1 #h-c_/af in4 from the other end4 ,with a gouge cut a slot #a_/d in4 wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in the section ,a-,a4 ,sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding with small brads driven in about #b in4 apart4 ,at a point #c_/d in4 from each end and in the center drill #a_/d-;in4 holes through the moulding at the small ends of the slots4 ,these are for the ends of the brace rods to spring into1 to lock the legs when they are open4 ,tack the two pieces of moulding marked ,f and ,j on the remaining edges of the cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at opposite sides1 then place the other two pieces 7,g and ,h7 #e in4 inside of these1 or just the length of the cross ends of the legs1 with the slots facing the first two placed 7,f and ,j7 and tack fast with #d-oz4 tacks4 ,use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the #a_/d-;in4 holes4 ,this part of the table can now be stained or painted the same as the legs4 ,the #c_/h-;in4 side pieces can also be stained at this time4 ,the ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise4 ,one end should be #a in4 long and should be square with the stock4 ,measure #aa-a_/d in4 center to center and bend in opposite direction1 leaving this end at a slight angle out from square4 ,just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer on4 ,now place five of the copper washers on the #a-;in4 end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off4 ,they should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace4 ,slip a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the #c_/af-;in4 hole in the leg from the short end side1 place another washer on the rod1 saw off and rivet down the end4 ,illustration3 ,the ,legs ,fold on the ,under ,side of ,top ,to put the legs in the table1 slip the end of one of the braces and the washers in the large hole in the slot1 shove it up until the #a_/d-;in4 hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet1 then drive an oak dowel or rod into each end4 ,this is the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on4 ,when the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should spring into the #a_/d-;in4 hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place4 ,rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs4 ,two wooden buttons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at ,k for locking the legs when they are closed4 ,the felt can now be put on the top of the table4 ,stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table4 ,now fasten on the #c_/h-;in4 side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass screws as shown on the drawing1 and the table is complete4 ,,magazine ,,stand ,if you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material used in this piece of furniture1 it can be purchased from a mill already planed1 sanded and cut to lengths given in the list4 ,any kind of wood can be used1 but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed1 gives the best appearance4 ,the following pieces will be needed3 #b shelves1 #c_/h by #h by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/h by #aj by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a shelf1 #c_/h by #ab by #ae in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h slats1 #c_/h by #a-a_/h by #ch in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b slats1 #a_/d by #a-a_/h by #ch in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d doz4 #a in4 ,no4 #i round-head screws4 ,take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly4 ,mark the places for the slats across the edges of the shelves1 making the first line #a_/b in4 from their ends4 ,use a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface4 ,another line is drawn #a-a_/h in4 from the first1 or the width of the slat4 ,the ends of the shelves are marked in the same manner1 beginning from the back edges and making the first line #a_/b in4 from them1 and then another line #a-a_/h in4 from the first1 or the width of the slat4 ,make a line across the ends1 #a_/b in4 from the front edge of the #h-;in1 shelves1 and another line #a-a_/h in4 back from the first one4 ,this will leave #b-a_/b in4 and #d-a_/b in4 of space respectively from the front edges of the #aj-;in4 and #ab-;in4 shelves4 ,shift the shelves so they will be even on the front edges and mark them the same as the back4 ,make a #a_/d-;in4 depth mark on all edges between the lines and cut this material out4 ,this can be done while the shelves are clamped together4 ,illustration3 ,stand ,complete ,illustration3 ,detail of ,stand ,place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the back slats on both ends first1 then screw on the two front slats4 ,turn the stand down and put on the two back slats4 ,attach the two front slats on the top shelf first4 ,then bore the places for the remaining holes and turn in the screws4 ,this will bend the slats into place4 ,the two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting them in1 making the spaces equal4 ,mark each slat #a_/b in4 below the bottom shelf and saw them off4 ,the stand can be taken apart1 sandpapered and stained4 ,a ,,tabouret ,the stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in the accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut to length1 squared and sanded4 ,quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to secure4 ,order the following pieces3 #d legs1 #a-a_/b in4 square by #bb in4 long4 #a top1 #c_/d in4 thick by #ad in4 square4 #d top rails1 #c_/d by #d by #ab in4 #d lower rails1 #c_/d by #c by #ab in4 ,first square up the four legs4 ,bevel the tops at an angle of #cj deg4 and hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch4 ,clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at once4 ,cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises4 ,lay them out in the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance between shoulders4 ,the upper rails should be cut out underneath as shown4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,tabouret ,the rails and posts can now be glued together4 ,be careful to get them joined perfectly square4 ,when they are dry cut and fit the top as shown4 ,this is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside4 ,remove all surplus glue from about the joints1 as the finish will not take where there is any glue4 ,go over the whole with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots1 then apply the finish you like best4 ,illustration3 ,finished ,tabouret ,illustration3 ,complete ,porch ,swing ,a ,,porch ,,swing ,the porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine at a very moderate cost4 ,it should be suspended by rustless black chains and eyebolts passing through the lower rails4 ,if cushions are desired they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim cloth4 ,these pieces1 dressed and sanded1 may be bought at the mill3 #b rails1 #a-c_/d by #c by #ga in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a rail1 #a-c_/d by #c by #fe in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b posts1 #a-c_/d by #c by #be in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b posts1 #a-c_/d by #c by #ag in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #a-c_/d by #c by #bb-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b arm rests1 #g_/h by #d by #bh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #e slats1 #c_/h by #e by #af in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #h ft4 flooring for bottom4 #b cleats1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #eg in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts4 ,lay out the lap joints for the back rails and posts4 ,use a knife line for this and saw exactly to the line to avoid trimming with the chisel4 ,when sawing be careful to cut exactly halfway through the thickness of each piece4 ,in the same way make the lap joints between the front rail and posts4 ,have the two end rails exactly the same length and proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them1 using #d-;in4 lag screws and washers4 ,bore through the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails for the lag screws4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,porch ,swing ,the slats are mortised #a_/b in4 into the back rails1 or a #c_/h-;in4 groove may be planed in these rails1 the entire distance between joints1 to receive the slats4 ,a rabbeting plane will be needed for this4 ,the arm rests lap over the back posts and are held to them with #b-;in4 round-head screws4 ,they may be fastened to the top of the front posts with round-head screws or dowel pins4 ,ordinary pine flooring makes a good1 tight seat1 or #g_/h-;in4 board may be used if desired4 ,fasten the cleats1 which support the seat1 to the front and back lower rails with #a-a_/b-;in4 screws4 ,to bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine1 stain it brown or black and finish with two coats of waterproof varnish4 ,a ,,foot ,,warmer ,this foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and placed inside of the stool4 ,oak is the most suitable wood to use1 and the following pieces will be needed3 #d legs1 #a-a_/d by #a-a_/d by #h in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d side rails1 #g_/h by #c by #h-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d top pieces1 #g_/h by #a-a_/b by #ab in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a bottom piece1 #g_/h by #h-a_/b by #h-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a piece asbestos1 #h-a_/b by #h-a_/b in4 #d pieces asbestos1 #b by #h-a_/b in4 #a sheet of brass1 #ac by #ac in41 #ag gauge4 #b hinges1 #a elbow catch1 #c doz4 ornamental tacks4 ,the work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the mortises for the rails4 ,tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises made in the posts4 ,they are then glued together1 care being taken to get the stool perfectly square4 ,the top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass4 ,the frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with the inside of the rails4 ,this in turn is fastened to the stool with the two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,foot ,warmer ,the design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board1 laying out the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool4 ,this leaves the design raised with a smooth surface4 ,the brass can now be removed from the board1 placed on the frame and fastened with the ornamental tacks4 ,turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with asbestos2 then place the bricks on the inside of the stool4 ,both should fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place4 ,illustration3 ,oak ,stool with ,brass ,cover ,the stool is now ready for the finish1 which can be of some stain to match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used4 ,a ,,plate ,,rack ,,for ,,the ,,dining ,,room ,this plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match other pieces of furniture in the room1 but as it is of mission design1 oak is the most suitable lumber1 as it takes the mission stain so nicely4 ,the material required is as follows3 #d posts1 #a-a_/b by #a-a_/b by #bh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #g_/h by #g-a_/d by #dh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b plate rails1 #g_/h by #f-a_/d by #cb in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b back boards1 #g_/h by #g-a_/d by #be in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b side boards1 #g_/h by #e-a_/d by #be in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #d shelves1 #g_/h by #f-a_/b by #h-a_/d in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b plate rests1 #g_/h by #g_/h by #cb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 ,illustration3 ,detail of ,plate ,rack ,this stock is specified to exact thickness1 but some allowance is made for trimming on the edges and ends4 ,begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends1 then trim the back and side boards4 ,these are nailed together1 lapping the back board over the side board4 ,the posts are fastened with dowels placed at equal distances apart4 ,hot glue is used in the joints4 ,illustration3 ,dining-,room ,plate ,rack ,the four shelves are now put in place4 ,these are notched out to fit around the posts and are nailed and glued4 ,while the glue is hardening on these1 the plate rails can be cut4 ,these have #g_/h-;in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates when resting against the two strips placed #e in4 above the plate rails and far enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward4 ,the rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels1 three at each end being sufficient4 ,the two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces4 ,the top is then put on4 ,this fits around the posts and rests on the sides4 ,hooks on which to hang cups are placed under the rails4 ,all parts are thoroughly sandpapered before the stain is applied4 ,a ,,mission ,,sideboard ,illustration3 ,sideboard for the ,dining-,room ,set ,the sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair with similar paneling design4 ,like these chairs the sideboard should be made of hard wood and should be similarly finished4 ,the drawer pulls1 if not made of wood1 should be of such metal and design as to harmonize with the mission style4 ,wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are appropriate4 ,drawer sides1 bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood1 such as yellow poplar4 ,the small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for holding silverware4 ,obtain the following stock3 #b posts1 #b by #b by #ej in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b posts1 #b by #b by #ci in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a top1 #a by #bc by #eh in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b plate rails1 #a_/b by #b by #eh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a plate rail1 #a_/b by #a-a_/b by #eh in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #b by #ba in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #ba in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b rails1 #g_/h by #c by #ba in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d slats1 #c_/h by #a-a_/b by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b slats1 #c_/h by #c-a_/b by #aj-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b panels1 #c_/h by #ah-c_/d by #aj in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a back rail1 #g_/h by #b by #ed in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #g_/h by #c-a_/h by #ed in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back rail1 #g_/h by #c by #ed in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b back stiles1 #g_/h by #a-c_/d by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b back stiles1 #g_/h by #b-a_/b by #aa in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #a back panel1 #c_/h by #aj by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a back panel1 #c_/h by #aa-a_/b by #ec in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #b back panels1 #c_/h by #aa by #aa in41 ,s-#b-,s4 #a drawer front1 #c_/d by #c by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #d by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer fronts1 #c_/d by #f by #eb-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b drawer ends1 #a_/b by #c by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s1 poplar4 #d drawer ends1 #a_/b by #d by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s1 poplar4 #d drawer ends1 #e_/h by #f by #bj in41 ,s-#d-,s1 poplar4 #c drawer backs1 #c_/h by #d by #bd in41 ,s-#b-,s1 poplar4 #b drawer backs1 #c_/h by #f by #eb in41 ,s-#b-,s1 poplar4 #c drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #bj by #bd in41 ,s-#b-,s1 poplar4 #b drawer bottoms1 #c_/h by #bj by #eb in41 ,s-#b-,s1 poplar4 #b drawer supports1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #bd-a_/b in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #d drawer supports1 #c_/d by #b-a_/b by #ed in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #aj drawer slides1 #c_/d by #b by #bb in41 ,s-#d-,s4 #b middle verticals1 #c_/d by #bb by #ac in41 ,s-#b-,s4 ,drawer guides can be made from scrap stock4 ,a detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as this4 ,anyone capable of building it1 will know the order of the different operations that are required in its construction4 ,illustration3 ,detail of the ,sideboard ,it may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small drawers may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so choose4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,folio #d3 ,millplaned changed to ,mill-planed ,folio #cd3 ,started new paragraph at ,the bottom board4444 ,added captions to ,illustrations3 ,folio #cc3 ,umbrella ,stand ,folio #cd3 ,detail of ,umbrella ,stand ,folio #ed ,detail of ,pedestal