,,sam ,,lambert ,,and ,,the ,,new ,,way ,,store ,a ,book for ,clothiers and ,their ,clerks ,published by ,grand ,rapids ,show ,case ,co4 ,grand ,rapids3 ,michigan ,copyright1 #aiab1 ,grand ,rapids ,show ,case ,co4 ,grand ,rapids1 ,mich4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,sam ,lambert had the best clothing store in ,medeena ,county--a corner store on the main street of ,medeena opposite the ,court ,house ,square4 ,medeena had four clothing stores1 not counting ,the ,blue ,front1 down by the ,depot1 with its collection of cheap watches in the window1 a yellow guitar1 two large accordions and a fiddle with a broken ,e string4 ,everybody in the ,county knew ,sam ,lambert4 ,as a merchant and a citizen he was a whole bunch of live wires4 ,a big-boned1 free-hearted fellow--lucky enough to just escape being run for sheriff1 as some thought he was too good natured1 the gang was afraid he was not pliant enough1 and ,sam didn't want to be away from the store4 ,sam took great pride in his clothing business and kept pace with the most advanced ideas in the trade4 ,he was awake to the marvelous development of the ready-to-wear business4 ,he carried the best and took a positive delight in each season's new models4 ,he recalled the old days of hand-me-downs1 and he had lived to see the two best tailors in ,medeena take to bushelling ready garments1 with less and less of that to be done--principally changing a button or shortening a trouser's length4 ,sam was broad-gauge in everything he did4 ,he sold his goods at the marked price1 for cash only--got a decent profit and told you so4 ,why shouldn't he8 ,he had a sense of style4 ,he was keenly alive to the artistry of clothes and his enthusiasm was contagious4 ,sam was firmly convinced that a man has to spend money to make money in the clothing business4 ,he said that a part of the value you deliver to a customer consists in giving him a better opinion of himself3 making him feel like a king for a day and that the best is none too good for him4 ,a store1 he would tell the boys1 cannot be run on the low gear4 ,you must keep her keyed up4 ,relax when the store is empty1 but when you go to meet a customer put on the tension--take a brace--get spring into your step--learn to bunch your vitality and get it across4 ,but keep your energy inside4 ,don't bounce and don't talk too much4 ,keep yourself in hand4 ,be quiet but alert4 ,concentrate6 ,for the time being there is but one person in the world and that is the customer1 and the most interesting thing in life is the thing he came in to see4 ,you can size up your man while you are going forward to meet him4 ,but by all means take him easy4 ,undue interest might embarrass him4 ,suppose he only wants a pair of #ae;c4 socks2 if he does1 there is a test of your ability that you may not realize4 ,many a clerk who can close a ,twenty dollar transaction with tact and dispatch never seems able to handle a ,ten cent sale so that the customer goes out feeling pleased with himself4 ,nine men out of ten who come into the store are self-conscious4 ,the thing to do is to make your man feel that his requirement is important simply because it is his requirement4 ,a good salesman keeps his own personality in the background3 he keeps the store and the sale in the background4 ,he puts all the emphasis on service to the customer1 and to do this he must mentally put himself in the customer's place4 ,try to be as interested in the customer's finding what he wants as if the article was for yourself2 but don't insist on his taking only the thing that appeals to you4 ,quietly dominate the sale1 but leave him plenty of room for the exercise of his own taste and ideas4 ,most men1 though they may not show it1 are slightly on the defensive when they come into a clothing store4 ,that is why it is so very important that there be no talking or laughing among the clerks4 ,you may find it hard to realize the effect of a whisper or a titter on the part of the store's help when a customer is present4 ,in nearly every case the man becomes sensitive or resentful and thinks he is being ridiculed4 ,try it yourself sometime by going into a strange store in another line of business in a distant city3 when you hear a laugh or a remark passed among the clerks1 see if you don't wonder if there isn't something wrong with your clothes or feel sure that comment is being made on your appearance or behavior4 ,there is another form of impatience or self-consciousness on the part of a customer who is more or less acquainted with the store4 ,he hurries past everyone in front1 headed for the part of the store where he thinks the goods he wants are kept4 ,it is bad policy to step in front of him or otherwise impede his progress4 ,if there is no one to wait on him follow quietly and be on hand when he lands at his destination4 ,a clerk often wonders why customers persist in doing this4 ,it is because they have an idea of the location of what they want and blindly strike out for it with a certain nervous desire to cover the intermediate ground as quickly as possible4 ,remember that while you feel perfectly at home in the store1 few customers do4 ,it is your business to put them at ease and certainly to do nothing to make them uncomfortable4 ,when a man comes in for a suit of clothes he usually has some sort of a mental picture of the thing he desires4 ,an idea1 clearly defined or hazy1 is in his mind as to the general color and effect of the suit he wants4 ,it is something he has noticed worn by someone else--looked at in a show window1 or seen in an illustration4 ,in most cases it will not be the thing he finally buys4 ,it may be a chalk-line stripe or a ,shepherd's ,plaid worn by a drummer who boarded the #f4cj ,lightning ,express4 ,in the glow of the lamps and the bustle and excitement of the ,station platform the thing looked possible3 but confronted in the store with the very style and pattern he backs away from it1 though 'it looked good on the other man4' ,find out what he has in mind2 meet it as nearly as you can and get it out of the way4 ,otherwise he will not concentrate on other goods4 ,he will hold to this mental picture and measure everything you show him by it--much to your disadvantage4 ,one of the worst possible things is to ask a man about what price suit he wants4 ,keep price in the background4 ,time enough to feel him out on that subject4 ,no man likes to have you take the measure of his pocket-book4 ,you must use your judgment in gauging him as to what to show him4 ,the important thing is to get at the picture he has in mind1 and the price too1 if you can do so without asking him to name the figure4 ,never ask a customer how he liked the last suit you sold him4 ,let by-gones be by-gones4 ,this is a new deal4 ,whether he was entirely satisfied is not the point now4 ,don't raise dangerous questions4 ,there are a dozen reasons why his last purchase may not be remembered with pleasure--reasons that have nothing to do with the value he received or the actual merit of the clothes4 ,if he voluntarily mentions the last suit with praise take it as a natural occurrence and pass it over2 you will try to do even better by him this time4 ,if he complains of his last purchase don't argue4 ,leave the subject as soon as possible and get down to the question in hand4 ,have confidence in your goods1 in your prices and in yourself as a salesman4 ,there are more sales lost for lack of firmness and decision at the right time than for any other cause4 ,among the clerks in the best and biggest of stores there are ten good openers of a sale to one good closer4 ,be a closer4 ,it requires judgment and decision of character1 but you can learn to do it4 ,when a woman goes into a cloak and suit department1 she is not satisfied to buy until she has been made to feel that she has pretty well canvassed the assortment1 seen practically everything in the stock at the range and along the line she is seeking4 ,she has merchandise imagination and thinks of the possible garments back there in the stock that she might have liked better4 ,in this regard a man is somewhat easier to handle4 ,it is a fact often demonstrated that clerks can close a sale more quickly where the stock is kept on hangers instead of piled on tables4 ,the preliminaries are more quickly covered4 ,having walked down the line the customer is better satisfied that the whole selection is placed at his disposal4 ,there is no secret about it4 ,nothing held back4 ,no mysterious pile of garments on a table that he cannot see4 ,note the tendency of the customer to investigate a pile of coats--lifting up the corners and looking at the patterns4 ,a coat in plain view1 taken off the hanger1 is more obviously a thoughtful selection of a garment definitely suited for him and he is the more ready to make it his own4 ,the important thing in closing a sale is to narrow down the choice as soon as you can to one or two strong possibilities1 flanked by a bad one--that is1 a style or a pattern that you know the customer doesn't want4 ,when this point is reached it is well to move the customer away from the rest of the stock1 say to some distant corner where he can stand on a rug and look in the mirror-- ,where his whole attention can be given to one suit1 or at most a choice between two4 ,a sale must be opened easily4 ,the customer should never be made to feel that he is being restricted in his selection4 ,but the moment you can form an idea of what he wants you can probably think of just the thing for him4 ,if you handle him right he accepts your knowledge of the assortment1 instead of demanding a complete canvass of the stock4 ,it is then you may know that you have established his confidence4 ,in a comparatively short time you can narrow him down to a choice where by a tactful show of firmness you can help him decide4 ,in the handling of almost every sale there is a point beyond which the customer begins to flounder and show indecision4 ,the weak salesman leads him on and on with no stopping point--no place to close--and the prospective sale fades to a 'just looking today' excuse4 ,this is a universal fault among retail clerks4 ,the test of salesmanship is in closing a sale4 ,be a closer6 ,never guy a customer or 'kid him along' for the amusement of a by-stander or a fellow clerk4 ,this is a common practice in some clothing stores4 ,the offender is usually a self-satisfied clerk who has had just enough success as a salesman to make him egotistical4 ,he thinks he is a regular dare-devil and that by making sport of his customer he may win a reputation as the village cut-up4 ,his favorite victim is some half-witted fellow--tho' a customer who is partly deaf may do and he is always ready for a yokel or a foreigner4 ,there is no doubt1 said ,sam ,lambert1 that the medal for the longest ears and the loudest bray in the clothing business belongs to this ,smart ,aleck type of clerk known as a 'kidder'4 ,to say nothing of the respect he owes the customer1 it is astonishing how he can presume to work his cheap little side-play on any human being1 when even a dog is sensitive to ridicule and knows when he is being laughed at4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,no one questioned ,sam ,lambert's power as a business getter1 nor the alertness of his store-keeping methods4 ,he was prodigal of his own energy--never spared himself4 ,he looked after the important things and left details to others4 ,as with every man who is a constructive force in the world of affairs1 ,sam's friends and relatives shook their heads--said that he needed a balance-wheel4 ,this was dinned into his ears so often that he finally came to believe it4 ,so after many ,sunday afternoon business discussions1 it was arranged that he was to take into the business his wife's cousin1 one ,lemuel ,stucker1 who had spent twenty years saving #ijjj as general manager for a flour and feed concern4 ,stucker had worked out elaborate sets of figures to prove the needed economies of management4 ,he was so tireless and sincere1 so careful and exact1 that it was with a great sense of relief that ,sam turned the store over to him4 ,here1 at last1 was a man who could lift from his shoulders the daily burden of management4 ,sam's real interest in the change1 as those who knew him might have guessed1 was a desire for new enterprise4 ,he had long had an eye on a fine opening for a clothing store in the neighboring town of ,bridgeville1 twenty miles away1 and he lost no time in carrying out this project4 ,during the ensuing year he was so engrossed with the ,bridgeville branch that ,medeena rarely saw him1 and ,lemuel ,stucker's rather discouraging reports on the state of business were attributed to ,lem's conservatism and natural depression of mind4 ,lem was ,sam's opposite in almost every particular4 ,a small1 sallow man with a black shoe-string necktie and a look of general regret4 ,he spent most of his time untying knots in pieces of string1 picking up bits of wrapping paper and sharpening short lead-pencils1 and he was great on buying brooms4 ,his effect on the store was one of immediate and prevalent blight4 ,you may wonder why the boys did not complain of conditions to ,sam1 but ,lem was manager--and there is something so virtuous and convincing about a first-class retrencher4 ,his wise saws and thrifty sayings are infectious and he makes everybody so low-spirited that they are ready to catch anything4 ,no more good window displays--tacks1 colored cheesecloth and other accessories cost money1 and the sun was bad for the goods4 ,no more trim on the counters and shelves4 ,stop the high-power electric light in front of the store and reduce the lamps inside4 ,these things did not all occur at once1 but so gradually that it was hard to realize just what had happened to the store4 ,the windows got streaky and the inside of the store looked dingy and cold4 ,then the conservative spirit got into the buying4 ,nothing but black cheviots with a few drab and gray worsteds4 ,perhaps it was just as well1 for when a customer came into the store and saw ,stucker he thought it was raining outside4 ,sam ,lambert had always prided himself on keeping alive what he called the buying spirit in the store4 ,nowadays a customer got a sense of caution4 ,the feeling was one of disapproval of all extravagance4 ,instead of purchasing a suit1 the man wondered where his next month's rent was coming from1 bought a pair of cottonade pants and hurried home4 ,trade fell off steadily4 ,affairs went on this way for a twelvemonth and then something happened4 ,two of ,sam's principal competitors were reported to be remodeling their stores--and what was more1 they were going to put in wardrobe systems and carry all their garments on hangers4 ,this aroused ,sam and he made an immediate investigation4 ,he found that one of the stores had contracted for the old type of wooden wall cabinets where the clothes hung behind panelled doors4 ,but the other was installing glass wardrobes1 where the stock would be on view4 ,this discovery cut ,sam like a knife4 ,he investigated further1 and was delighted to find that his wardrobe competitor1 with the temptation to save a few dollars1 had ordered a second-rate type of glass wardrobe1 with pull-out rods that swing inside the case1 without a locking device to prevent them from breaking the glass4 ,without saying anything to ,stucker he telegraphed the best wardrobe concern in the country to send their representative at once4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,at eleven o'clock the following day a quiet man wearing double-lens spectacles and a pre-occupied air came into the store1 asked for ,mr4 ,lambert and was directed to the rear where ,stucker was showing ,sam the wisdom of leaving the night covers over the black goods during the day to protect the stock from dust4 ,sam was so keyed up on the wardrobe question that he heard only about half that ,stucker was saying4 ,when the man with the spectacles arrived ,sam guessed his mission without waiting for a word of greeting4 ,you1 said ,sam1 are here to talk wardrobes2 let's see what you've got4 ,before ,i talk wardrobes1 or1 if you please1 the ,new ,way system1 began the salesman1 ,i would prefer to get a fair idea of the amount and kind of stock you carry and how you care for it now4 ,just as ,i thought1 interrupted ,stucker4 ,you're afraid our stock is too big for your wardrobe capacity4 ,well1 ,i don't want to discourage you1 but when you count the suits on the table1 don't forget to add about #ej dozen pair of knee pants and odd trousers stored in case-goods boxes under the tables4 ,remember too1 that when you take the tables out1 you must find another place for our last years sweaters1 mufflers1 caps1 gloves and underwear1 as well as all our advance stock of shirts1 hosiery and ties which we keep under the tables because we have no room for them on our side shelving4 ,you can see it is piled to the ceiling now2 and all that on top is active stock4 ,that reminds me1 ,mr4 ,stucker1 of a joke your friend ,jones1 over at ,dennisville1 played on ,sakes1 his partner4 ,before we remodelled their store1 they had a lot of money tied up in stock piled under the tables like you have4 ,most of it was odds and ends--left overs of many seasons that ,jones knew even a clearance sale would not clean up4 ,he inventoried the lot and shipped #gb dozen pair of knee pants to ,new ,york1 and wrote the auctioneer to send a check for whatever amount they brought4 ,the funny part of it1 ,sakes never discovered that the stock was gone until about three weeks later1 when he noticed a check in the mail and asked ,jones what it was for4 ,you can do the same thing1 ,mr4 ,stucker1 with your stock under the tables1 and the check you will get will help buy ,new ,way sectional shelving that will give you about three times the capacity your furnishing department has now2 so it will not be necessary to climb to the ceiling for your active stock or dig under the tables for your out of season goods4 ,before we discuss detail1 ,mr4 ,lambert1 continued the salesman1 ,i have something to say about the practical arrangement of the inside of the store4 ,the business of a store is to sell goods4 ,a customer may come in for one item4 ,you want him to buy two or three or a half a dozen4 ,the easier you make it for him1 the less he has to cross and recross the store to complete his purchases--the more goods you will sell him4 ,what you want--what every merchant wants--and what few have--is a practical1 natural selling arrangement of the goods4 ,the invention of a practical wardrobe merely made the right plan possible4 ,our business is to suggest the plan and fit the wardrobe arrangement to the needs of a store4 ,every clothing store has its own individuality4 ,each problem must be worked out on the ground with a full knowledge of the stock and the business1 the history of the store1 the nature of its trade and the personality of its proprietor4 ,sam's interest was excited4 ,this point of view was new to him1 but he could see the truth of it and he was impatient to get at the heart of the matter as far as his own store was concerned4 ,you're right1 he said1 about the personality and individuality of a store2 and for that reason don't tell me to put the furnishing goods shelving down the middle of the store4 ,this is a clothing store and not a haberdashery4 ,mr4 ,lambert1 said the salesman1 you have hit the nail squarely on the head4 ,this is a double room1 a very different problem from that of a single store4 ,i looked over the place of one of your competitors this morning4 ,he also has a double store with much the same arrangement as yours and ,i find that he is making a mistake--adopting a plan that is about five years behind the times4 ,you see1 in the earlier days of the wardrobe1 there was no such thing as a center wardrobe4 ,therefore the clothing had to be hung against the wall in pull-out cabinets4 ,when the clothing went to the side walls the furnishings had to move to the center floor space4 ,such an arrangement is not practical for a double store and the effect is bad4 ,it kills the first impression of a big store4 ,the shelving will look bare if it is not trimmed1 and if it is trimmed your big double room looks like two small stores divided by a wall4 ,the center shelving will always have stock boxes piled on top and that will throw one side of the store always in shadow4 ,besides1 this arrangement divides the trade and screens half of it from view4 ,the stock is cut in two and looks small4 ,one salesman can not wait on the furnishing goods trade without neglecting half of it all the time4 ,if you have two clerks1 a customer must be taken from one side to the other for his ties or underwear1 and there you are again1 both on one side at the same time4 ,if another customer came along they'd have to stop in the middle of a sale and refer him to a clerk around in the other aisle4 ,a furnishing goods department should be continuous4 ,the sale of a shirt will lead to the purchase of a tie or a collar or hosiery4 ,the goods should be in sight so that they automatically suggest themselves4 ,you enter this store and the first impression you get is a big clothing store4 ,that is what you want4 ,clothing dominates the store4 ,furnishing goods and hats are important and necessary side lines4 ,no one would mistake it for a haberdasher's4 ,you have been known from the beginning as the leading clothier4 ,that's the reputation you want to keep4 ,mr4 ,lambert1 one of the important problems of this store is to house your stock in new fixtures and at the same time widen your aisles4 ,you can not see how that is possible4 ,it is really the only problem ,i have to solve for you1 and it is easy4 ,the little man with the big spectacles had things moving4 ,he was not much of a salesman but he knew all about merchandising in a retail store4 ,and he certainly was familiar with every store fixture and selling device that had ever been invented1 its good and bad points1 where it was practical and where it was not4 ,before a merchant puts money into store equipment1 said the wardrobe man1 he ought to be sure that he is getting the very latest and most improved models4 ,he owes this to himself as a protection for his investment4 ,there is always a temptation to save a few dollars by adopting a poor imitation or some out-of-date device4 ,the latest and best is the cheapest in the end1 especially when you consider convenience and durability4 ,a pretty safe guide is to see what the biggest and best stores everywhere are installing today4 ,you will find such merchants as ,john ,wanamaker in his ,philadelphia and ,new ,york stores equipping his clothing departments solely with ,new ,way ,crystal ,wardrobes2 ,browning1 ,king ,company in seventeen cities2 ,schuman1 ,kennedy1 ,posner1 ,talbot ,company1 ,jordan-,marsh ,company1 ,leopold ,morse ,company1 ,mc,cullough ,parker in ,boston2 ,george ,muse ,company in ,atlanta2 ,mullen ,bluett of ,los ,angeles2 ,becker of ,san ,francisco2 ,burkhardt of ,cincinnati2 ,lazarus1 and ,meyer ,israel of ,new ,orleans2 ,and more than a thousand others--all the representative stores of their localities4 ,these men have selected the ,new ,way ,crystal ,wardrobes after careful comparison with every other device on the market4 ,they have found the ,new ,way ,crystal ,wardrobe the most sightly and compact--having the largest capacity with the greatest ease of operation4 ,they find that they show the goods better2 that the clerks can work faster from them2 that half a dozen clerks can sell from one wardrobe at the same time2 that one boy can keep the stock in good shape where four were inadequate under any other plan4 ,they find that the ,new ,way people have basic patents on special features1 such as the ,new ,way disappearing doors that divide in the center1 and slide into the ends of the wardrobe and do not project into the aisle4 ,the ,new ,way revolving rack with the patent locking device1 which works loaded or unloaded with equal ease--no friction1 no leverage1 no noise4 ,they find the ,new ,way low center wardrobes give an unobstructed view all over the store and are the only wardrobes made that are entirely practical for grouping in front of a furnishing or hat department4 ,likewise the high double deck wall wardrobes have more than double the capacity of tables4 ,the wardrobe man illustrated his talk with photographs and backed his arguments with figures4 ,the upshot of it was that he made a complete ground plan of the ,lambert store with a modern selling arrangement and ,new ,way fixtures in their proper places4 ,but before ,stucker would admit the wisdom of the improvement1 he argued it from every point of view4 ,the farmer trade1 he said1 would imagine that they would have to pay higher prices for clothing to make up the cost of new fixtures4 ,this1 mind you1 today when the farmer is the most enlightened member of the community--when he is using progressive methods in marketing his own product1 to reduce his costs and increase his profits6 ,lem acknowledged that the clothiers who are handling the finest merchandise are fitting up their stores with ,new ,way ,crystal ,wardrobes1 and he didn't like to admit that the ,lambert ,store didn't sell high grade merchandise4 ,he conceded that fine goods in every other line of trade are treated with the care and respect they deserve1 otherwise they would suffer in the handling and cease to be fine merchandise4 ,finally1 ,lem admitted that the discerning public does judge a merchant's stock by the way he treats it1 so that the store with ,new ,way ,wardrobes as a feature is not only the most progressive store1 but in practically every instance the most prosperous in the clothing trade of its locality4 ,after ,sam had given the order his one thought was impatience for the completion of the job4 ,i must have that stuff all installed so that ,i can have my opening a week ahead of the other people4 ,here1 ,stucker1 called ,sam to that gloomy soul1 who had gone behind a stock of work-shirts1 while the order was being signed1 we'll let you dispose of the old fixtures4 ,that's a job that's just about your size4 ,i tell you1 ,stucker1 a natural-born retrencher has his virtues4 ,but if you give him rope enough he will retrench you out of business4 ,he never builds anything4 ,if it wasn't for the creative man there would be nothing to retrench4 ,the retrencher is all right if you don't pay him too much4 ,he is worth about #aj a month1 because you can find fifty of them in any old man's home that you can hire for less money than that4 ,no1 ,lem1 ,i won't be unfair4 ,you're not as bad as all that4 ,it takes all kinds of people to make a world and there is plenty of room for both of us in this business--there always will be leaks to stop and work to do for an earnest man who has the interest of the store at heart4 ,the fault has been in the division of our labor4 ,i'll show you the way we can get the best out of ourselves4 ,sam1 said ,lem1 ,i reckon ,i've been looking at the world through a crack in the fence and ,i'll have to widen out my view a little4 ,you give me the books and the sales slips to look after4 ,in the meantime ,i'm going to make the most exact inventory this store ever had and be ready to check in the fresh stock that is to go in these ,new ,way wardrobes4 ,my talents are all right if ,i don't try to cover too much territory4 ,the two men shook hands4 ,all was in readiness on the day set4 ,everybody in ,medeena ,county came to the ,grand ,opening1 and ,sam ,lambert's ,new ,way ,store is doing the business of the town4