,transcribers ,note3 ,the spelling in this text has been preserved as in the original4 ,obvious printer's errors have been corrected4 ,you can find a list of the corrections made at the end of this e-text4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,modern ,,lace-,,making4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,price3 ,,fifty ,,cents ,,or ,,two ,,shillings4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,published ,,by ,the ,butterick ,publishing ,co4 7,limited74 ,london and ,new ,york4 #ahia ,,printed ,,in ,,new ,,york4 ,illustration ,,introduction4 ,owing to the growing popularity of the fascinating art of lace-making and the appeals of our readers to place it within their reach1 we have prepared this pamphlet4 ,in making it a perfect instructor and a reliable exponent of the favorite varieties of lace1 we have spared neither time nor expense1 and are most happy to offer to our patrons what a celebrated maker of ,modern ,lace has pronounced as the finest book upon lace-making to be found on either continent4 ,the illustrations1 in the main1 are direct reproductions from genuine1 hand-made modern laces1 such as any lady may make who masters the instructions found upon these pages4 ,the beauty of these laces is beyond question1 their durability all that can be desired1 and their textures may be varied from an extreme delicacy to a sumptuous opposite4 ,in introducing the art of modern lace-making into the realms of our readers1 we feel all of the pleasure we are sure we thus convey4 ,the ,butterick ,publishing ,co41 ,limited4 ,,contents4 ,pages #e to #i-- ,lace-,making1 ,ancient and ,modern ,methods4 ,pages #i to #ai-- ,stitches used in ,modern ,lace-,making4 ,pages #ai to #bb-- ,fancy ,braids ,cords1 ,rings and ,buttons4 ,pages #bb to #if-- ,designs1 ,lace ,articles1 ,edgings1 etc41 etc41 in ,modern ,lace4 ,pages #if to #abe-- ,darned ,net ,samples1 ,kerchiefs1 ,tidies1 ,edgings1 ,insertions1 etc41 etc41 with ,designs for the same and other ,articles4 ,lace-,making ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern ,,methods4 ,the art of making lace in one form or another has existed from the earliest ages4 ,there are ,scriptural references to various web-like fabrics1 which were of rude construction1 no doubt1 but whose general characteristics were identical with those productions of modern skill which have for centuries been known as lace4 ,homer and other ancient writers constantly mention net-works of fancifully embroidered materials2 gold thread-work was known to the ,romans2 and as ,egyptian robes of state are depicted upon the tombs of the earlier dynasties as being fashioned from a looped net-work or crochet1 it is probable that the ,israelites learned the art from the ,egyptians4 ,museums contain specimens of lace dating back to periods that to us of the present day seem mere dreams of reigns and eras1 and history includes a scattered literature of lace which proves that the art must have been practised almost from the beginning4 ,up to the ,sixteenth ,century1 however1 open work embroidery was the favorite decoration1 and from it the tangible origin of lace seems derived4 ,during the ,renaissance period the first book of embroidery patterns and lace-work appeared4 ,the earliest volume bearing a date was printed at ,cologne in #aebg2 and it was during the reign of ,richard ,,iii4 of ,england that the word lace was first used in the descriptions of the royal wardrobe4 ,at first the best known laces were those of ,venice1 ,milan and ,genoa4 ,the ,italians claim the invention of point or needle-made lace2 but the ,venetian point is now a product of the past1 and ,england and ,france supply most of the fine laces of the present time4 ,lace-makers in the various ,european countries are trained to the work from childhood2 but it is said that the makers of ,honiton lace1 the fabric of which ,queen ,victoria's wedding gown was made1 are rapidly decreasing in numbers1 so that there are few persons now living who understand the construction of this exquisite pillow lace4 ,the costly point and ,honiton and the dainty ,mechlin and ,valenciennes of bygone days can only be produced by trained lace-workers1 whose skilful fingers weave bobbins of cobweb-like thread to and fro over the pillow necessary to antique methods2 and for this reason fine lace-making is practically beyond the skill of the amateur4 ,besides1 some of the threads in the very filmy laces are so fine that they cannot be successfully manipulated except in a moist atmosphere1 such as that of ,great ,britain2 and even there some of the more exquisite specimens must perforce be made in underground rooms1 since it is only there that the proper degree of moisture can be obtained4 ,in dry climates these gossamer-like threads would roughen and break at almost the slightest touch4 ,referring to the known origin of some of the earlier laces1 a writer upon the subject says3 ,they say it was a woman1 ,barbara ,uttmann1 who invented pillow lace in the #afth century4 ,women have ever been patrons of lace-making4 ,victoria has kept the ,honiton laces in fashion1 and it was the ,duchess of ,argyle who introduced lace-making in ,scotland4 ,the ,countess of ,erne and ,lady ,denny and ,lady ,bingham began it in ,ireland1 and ,lady ,de ,vere gave her own ,brussels point for patterns when the first ,irish point was made at ,curragh4 ,it was ,elizabeth of ,denmark who introduced lace-making in that country1 and the ,archduchess ,sophia who started lace schools in ,bohemia4 ,now at least ,i can have laces1 said ,anne of ,austria1 when ,louis ,,xiii41 her husband died1 and her court was famous for its cleanliness and its ,spanish point4 ,colbert had three women as coadjutors when he started lace-making in ,france4 ,it was because ,josephine loved point d',alencon that ,napoleon revived it4 ,eugenie spent #e1jjj for a single dress flounce1 and had #a1jjj1jjj in fine laces4 ,victoria's favorite1 ,honiton1 is not considered a particularly beautiful lace1 although its weaving is so tedious and difficult4 ,real ,honiton laces1 so says an authority1 are made up of bits and bits fashioned by many different women in their own little cottages--here a leaf1 there a flower1 slowly woven through the long1 weary days1 only to be united afterward in the precious web by other workers who never saw its beginning4 ,there is a pretty lesson in the thought that to the perfection of each of these little pieces the beauty of the whole is due--that the rose or leaf some humble peasant woman wrought carefully1 helps to make the fabric worthy the adorning of a queen or the decoration of an altar1 even as the sweetness and patient perfection in any life makes all living more worthy and noble4 ,a single flower upon which taste and fancy were lavished1 and which sustained and deft labor brought to perfection1 represents the lives of many diligent women workers4 ,it has become so much the fashion to worship all things ancient that most lovers of fine lace would prefer to have it a century old2 and yet there never was a time when laces were more beautiful1 more artistic and more unique in design than just at the present day2 for modern laces preserve the best features of the laces that have gone before them1 and have added so many new inspirations that except for the sentiment1 the romance or the history connecting this scrap with a title1 that with a famous beauty1 and another with some cathedral's sacred treasure1 the palm would certainly be given to the gauze-like production of the poor flax thread spinner of the present day4 ,not all people know the difference between point lace which is made with the needle1 and pillow lace which is made with the bobbins--but much of the beautiful point lace of the present day is made with the needle1 and its beauty stands a favorable comparison with the more costly pillow lace4 ,strictly modern lace-making is a result of ,american ingenuity1 and it has so simple a basis and is so easy to learn that any woman of average skill may1 with little difficulty1 produce by its different processes1 laces that are really magnificent and quite as substantial and useful as they are exquisitely beautiful4 ,in ,america modern lace-making has been developed to a high degree of perfection by its pioneer1 ,mrs4 ,grace ,b4 ,mc,cormick1 in whose designing rooms at ,no4 #ibc ,broadway1 ,new ,york1 may be seen specimens of modern laces of every variety1 from dainty needle-point to a very elaborate kind known as the ,royal ,battenburg4 ,this ,english name for an ,american production was selected in honor of the ,battenburg nuptials1 which occurred about the time a patent for making the lace was applied for at ,washington4 ,only a few years have elapsed since this plucky little woman made a single piece of lace edging from common braid as an experiment1 and sold it for a trifling sum4 ,love for the work and perseverance have enabled her to overcome obstacles that would have discouraged a woman of ordinary energy1 and she has gradually improved upon her earlier methods until modern lace occupies a front rank among the numerous dainty forms of needle-work of the day4 ,one of the finest specimens lately placed on exhibition is a table-cloth intended for use at elaborate dinners4 ,it is made of the finest table linen and ,royal ,battenburg lace4 ,the cloth is1 of course1 very large1 and the lace1 in the form of wide insertion1 is let in above the border and is also arranged to divide the center into three squares4 ,an outside border of edging to match completes this exquisite production1 which has been two years in course of construction1 and is valued at four hundred and seventy-five dollars4 ,the same style of lace may be made by any one who studies the art and in any width or form1 and it may be produced in many textures1 although really intended for heavy effects4 ,the making of such lace possesses a great charm for womankind in general1 and will undoubtedly retain favor as long as needlecraft remains a pastime and employment with the gentler sex4 ,,materials4 ,the requirements of modern lace-making are few4 ,the products are classed as ,honiton1 ,point1 ,duchesse1 ,princesse1 ,royal ,battenburg or ,old ,english ,point1 etc41 etc42 but all are made with various braids arranged in different patterns and connected by numerous kinds of stitches1 many different stitches often appearing in one variety of lace4 ,the materials required are neither numerous nor expensive4 ,the following is a complete list3 ,tracing cloth1 leather or toile ciree1 lace braids of various kinds1 linen thread1 two or three sizes of needles1 a good thimble and a pair of fine sharp scissors4 ,for each kind of lace there is a special sort of braid in various patterns1 and the selection of the thread depends entirely upon the variety and quality of lace to be made4 ,this selection should be left to the decision of the teacher or the skilled maker of laces1 as she knows from experience the proper combinations of materials4 ,thus1 in making ,honiton and point lace1 thread in twelve different degrees of fineness is used2 and as the braids also vary in size1 the thread must always be adapted to the braid4 ,for ,battenburg lace the thread is in eight sizes1 the finest being used only for whipping curves or drawing edges into the outlines required4 ,the ,ideal ,honiton is a new lace made with fancy ,honiton braid and wash-silk floss in dainty colors1 and is exquisite for doilies1 mats1 table scarfs and center-pieces4 ,designs sold by lace-makers are usually drawn upon tracing cloth1 as this is flexible and much more agreeable to work upon than any other material4 ,the tracing cloth1 when the braid is arranged1 is basted to a foundation of leather or toile ciree2 or smooth wrapping-paper may be basted under the design and will furnish all the support that is necessary1 while being lighter than the toile ciree4 ,it must be remembered that the work is really wrong side out while in progress1 so that it will not show its true beauty until finished and removed from the foundation or pattern4 ,according to the braid and thread selected1 these laces may be made of fairy-like fineness or of massive elegance--general results being dainty enough for the gown of a bride or sumptuous enough for the adornment of an altar4 ,lace-making establishments will furnish designs of any width or shape desired1 and will also originate designs for special articles for which there are only occasional calls4 ,regular edging designs are ordinarily made in four widths--from quite narrow to very wide2 and not infrequently a handkerchief design is enlarged sufficiently to form a square for a table or a fancy stand4 ,in filling in the spaces of any design or pattern1 the worker may choose the stitches that please her best1 if she does not like those accompanying the design that she has selected or that has been sent her4 ,,stitches ,,used ,,in ,,modern ,,lace-,,making4 ,as in all fancy work which has a set of foundation stitches peculiar to it that may be varied according to the proficiency and ingenuity of the maker1 so has ,modern ,lace a series of primary stitches from which may be evolved many others4 ,a large number of illustrations of stitches1 some of which are primary or foundation stitches1 while others are combinations1 are here presented1 with full instructions for making2 and the entire series given will make perfectly plain to the student the ease with which she may combine or invent stitches1 when those of the design she is to work are not to her liking4 ,the first stitch given is the main foundation stitch4 ,,plain ,,point ,,stitches4 ,,nos4 #a ,,and #b4--,,point ,,de ,,bruxelles ,,or ,,brussels ,,point4--,among the stitches most used in lace-making is ,point de ,bruxelles or ,brussels point4 ,it is simply a button-hole stitch worked loosely1 and it must be done with regularity1 as the beauty of the work depends almost wholly upon the evenness of the stitches4 ,brussels point is occasionally used as an edge1 but is more frequently seen in rows worked back and forth to fill in spaces1 or as a ground work4 ,the illustrations clearly represent the method of making this stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4--,point de ,bruxelles 7,brussels ,point74 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4--,point de ,bruxelles ,worked in ,rows4 ,,no4 #c4--,,point ,,de ,,venise1 ,,or ,,venice ,,point4--,this stitch is worked from left to right1 like ,brussels point4 ,work #a loose button-hole stitch1 and in this stitch work #d button-hole stitches tightly drawn up1 then work another loose button-hole stitch1 then #d more tight button-hole stitches in the loose one2 repeat to the end of the row1 and fasten off4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4--,point de ,venise 7,venice ,point74 ,,no4 #d4--,,petit ,,point ,,de ,,venise1 ,,or ,,little ,,venice ,,point4--,this stitch is worked in the same manner as point de ,venise1 but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose button-hole stitch4 ,this is a most useful stitch for filling in small spaces4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4--,petit ,point de ,venise 7,little ,venice ,point74 ,,no4 #e4--;,,italian ,,lace ,,stitch4--,commence at the right side and pass the thread to the left4 ,first row4--,make a loose button-hole stitch into the braid to form a loop1 then pass the needle under the line of thread1 making the loops an eighth of an inch apart4 ,second row4--,pass the thread back to the left1 make a button-hole stitch in every loop1 and pass the needle under the line of thread after each button-hole stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4--;,italian ,lace ,stitch4 ,,no4 #f4--;,,cobweb ,,lace ,,stitch4--,commence at the right side1 pass the thread to the left1 work #c button-hole stitches1 miss the space of #c1 which will leave a small loop1 and continue these details to the end4 ,second row4--,pass the thread back to the left side1 work #c button-hole stitches in each loop1 taking up the line of thread with the loop1 as seen in the engraving4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4--;,cobweb ,lace ,stitch4 ,,no4 #g4--,,point ,,brabancon4--,this stitch is worked as follows from left to right3 ,first row4--,make #a long1 loose point de ,bruxelles1 and #a short loose one alternately1 to end of row4 ,second row4--,make #g tight point de ,bruxelles in the #a long1 loose stitch1 and #b short1 loose point de ,bruxelles in the short1 loose stitch on previous row1 and repeat across the row4 ,third row4--,same as first4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4--,point ,brabancon4 ,,no4 #h4--,,point ,,de ,,valenciennes1 ,,or ,,valenciennes ,,stitch4--,this stitch appears complicated1 but is really easy to work4 ,begin at the left hand and work #f point de ,bruxelles stitches at unequal distances1 every alternate stitch being the larger4 ,second row4--,upon the first large or long stitch1 work #i close button-hole stitches1 then #a short point de ,bruxelles stitch under the one above1 then #i close stitches1 and so on to the end of the row 7right to left74 ,third row4--,make #e close button-hole stitches in the #i of previous row1 #a short point de ,bruxelles1 #b close1 in the ,bruxelles stitch1 #a short point de ,bruxelles1 #e close1 #a short point de ,bruxelles1 #b close1 #a short1 #e close1 #a short and repeat4 ,fourth row4--,make #e close1 #a short point de ,bruxelles1 #b close1 #a short1 #e close1 #a short1 #b close1 #a short1 and repeat4 ,continue the rows until sufficient of the pattern is worked4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4--,point de ,valenciennes 7,valenciennes ,stitch74 ,,no4 #i4--,,point ,d',,espagne1 ,,or ,,spanish ,,point4--,this variety of stitch is worked from left to right as follows3 ,insert the needle in the edge of the braid1 keeping the thread turned to the right1 and bringing it out inside the loop formed by the thread 7see illustration ,no4 #i72 the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it4 ,pass the needle under the stitch and bring it out in front1 thus twice twisting the thread1 which produces the cord-like appearance of this stitch4 ,at the end of each row fasten to the braid and sew back1 inserting the needle once in every open stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #i4--,point d',espagne 7,spanish ,point74 ,,no4 #aj4--;,,genoa ,,lace ,,stitch4--,commence at the right side1 and work as follows3 ,first row4--,work #d button-hole stitches1 miss the space of #c1 work #c1 miss the space of #c1 work #d4 ,continue to the end4 ,second row4--,work #i stitches close together1 #c into the spaces of the #d1 and #c more into the loop at each side of it4 ,miss the #c stitches1 and make #i as before4 ,third row4--,make #i close stitches1 #c into the last #c spaces of the #i1 #c into the loop1 and #c into the first spaces of the #i next1 and so on to the end4 ,fourth row4--,repeat the first1 making the #c stitches into the loop1 and the #d into the center spaces of the nine4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aj4--;,genoa ,lace ,stitch4 ,,no4 #aa4--;,,flemish ,,lace ,,stitch4--,commence at the right side1 and work as follows3 ,first row4--,work #b button-hole stitches close together1 miss the space of #b1 work #b1 miss the space of #h2 this will leave a large loop and a small one alternately4 ,second row4--,make #h button-hole stitches in the larger loops and #b in the small ones4 ,third row4--,repeat the first row1 making #b stitches in each loop of the second row4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aa4--;,flemish ,lace ,stitch4 ,,no4 #ab4--,,point ,,de ,,fillet1 ,,or ,,net ,,groundwork ,,stitch4--,this stitch is also represented at ,no4 #ba1 on page #ac1 but the method of making the knot is here illustrated4 ,it is used for ground-work where ,brussels net is not imitated1 and is very effective wherever it is used4 ,it is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space to be filled4 ,a loose point de ,bruxelles stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid1 then passed twice through the braid as shown in the illustration1 and worked in rows backward and forward as follows3 #a point de ,bruxelles stitch1 then before proceeding to the next stitch1 pass the needle under the knot1 over the thread1 and again under it1 as shown in the illustration4 ,this stitch is very quickly worked4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ab4 ,point de ,fillet 7,net ,groundwork ,stitch74 ,,no4 #ac4--,,point ,,de ,,reprise4--,this stitch is worked by darning over and under two threads forming a triangle4 ,the space is filled by parallel and crosswise bars placed at equal distances1 and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is worked4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ac4--,point de ,reprise4 ,,no4 #ad4--,,point ,,turque1 ,,or ,,turkish ,,point4--,this easy and effective stitch is very appropriate for filling either large or small spaces2 the thread employed should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be filled4 ,first row4--,work a loop into the braid1 bringing the thread from right to left1 passing the needle through the twist and through the loop 7see engraving71 draw up tight and repeat4 ,second row4--#a straight thread from right to left4 ,third row4--,work the same as first1 using the straight thread in place of the braid1 and passing the needle through the loop of the previous row1 as shown in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ad4--,point ,turque 7,turkish ,stitch74 ,,no4 #ae4--,,treble ,,point ,d',,espagne4--,this stitch is worked in exactly the same way as the open and close varieties just mentioned1 as follows3 #c close stitches1 #a open1 #c close to the end of each row4 ,sew back1 and in the next row make #a open1 #c close1 #a open1 #c close to the end2 repeat the rows as far as necessary1 taking care that the close and open stitches follow in regular order4 ,diamonds1 stars1 squares1 blocks and various other pretty patterns may be formed with this stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ae4--,treble ,point d',espagne4 ,,no4 #af4--,,point ,d',,espagne 7,,close74--,this stitch is worked like open point d',espagne 7see ,no4 #i1 page #aj7 but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass through in the next row4 ,it is also worked from left to right1 and is fastened to the braid at the end of each row4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #af4--,point d',espagne4 7,close47 ,,no4 #ag4--,,point ,,de ,,grecque ,,or ,,grecian ,,point4--,point de ,grecque is made from left to right1 and is worked backward and forward4 ,it is begun by #a stitch in loose point de ,bruxelles and followed by #c of close point d',espagne2 then #a ,bruxelles1 #c point d',espagne1 to the end of the row2 in returning work in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ag4--,point de ,grecque 7,grecian ,point74 ,,no4 #ah4--,,point ,,de ,,cordova4--,this stitch is useful as a variation1 and resembles the point de reprise of ,guipure lace making4 ,it is worked in a similar manner1 over and under the sides of squares formed by intersecting straight lines of the thread4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ah4--,point de ,cordova4 ,,no4 #ai4--,,point ,d',,alencon1 ,,with ,,twisted ,,stitch4--,this stitch is used to fill in narrow spaces where great lightness of effect is desired1 and is usually seen along the sides of insertions and the tops of edgings4 ,plain point d',alencon is worked over and under in bars in a sort of herring-bone pattern1 and a twisted stitch is made as seen in the engraving1 by twisting the thread three times around each bar and knotting it at the angles as pictured4 ,the effect is similar to one of the drawn-work hem-stitches4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ai4--,point d',alencon1 with ,twisted ,thread4 ,,no4 #bj4--,,point ,d',,angleterre4--,this lace is worked as follows3 ,cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about an eighth of an inch apart1 then form cross-lines1 intersecting those already made and passing alternately under and over them2 work a rosette on every spot where two lines cross by working over and under the two lines about #af times round2 then twist the thread twice round the ground-work thread1 and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bj4--,point d',angleterre4 ,,no4 #ba4--,,point ,,de ,,fillet ,,and ,,point ,,de ,,reprise4--,the net-work seen in this engraving is the first stitch mentioned1 while the block-work is the second4 ,both are clearly illustrated and need no written explanation of the methods employed in making them4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ba4--,point de ,fillet ,and ,point de ,reprise4 ,,no4 #bb4--,,point ,,de ,,tulle4--,this stitch is used as a ground-work for very fine work1 and is worked in rows backward and forward in the same stitch as open point d' ,espagne4 ,when this is completed the work is gone over a second time by inserting the needle under one twisted bar1 bringing it out and inserting it at and bringing it out again at the dot4 ,this produces a close double twist which is very effective4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bb4--,point de ,tulle4 ,,no4 #bc4 ,,fan ,,lace ,,stitch4--,commence at the right side1 and work as follows3 ,first row4--,make #a button-hole stitch and miss the space of #h1 which will leave a long loop4 ,second row4--,make #h button-hole stitches in each loop4 ,third row4--,make #g stitches into the spaces between the #h1 and so decrease one in every row until only one remains1 as may be seen by referring to the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bc4--;,fan ,lace ,stitch4 ,,no4 #bd4--,,rose ,,point ,,lace ,,stitch4--,make a foundation of single threads1 crossing them to form the large squares4 ,work a button-hole stitch at each crossing to make it firm4 ,now begin at the top1 at the right side and fill the first square with ,brussels net stitches1 finishing at the lower left corner4 ,fill every alternate square in the same way as seen in the picture4 ,now cross the open squares diagonally with two threads1 twisting each thread around the adjoining one as represented4 7,carry one thread across all the squares from corner to corner first1 then twist back1 fastening at the corner started from2 cross these threads in the same way from the opposite direction74 ,when twisting the thread back from the last set of crossings1 make a rosette at each center crossing as follows3 ,keep the space open with a pin and trace round it with a darning movement five or six times2 commence at the single thread and work a close button-hole stitch over the tracing entirely around1 and then twist along the single thread to the center of the next square4 ,this is a very effective design for spaces4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bd4--,rose ,point ,lace ,stitch4 ,,wheels ,,and ,,rosettes4 ,wheels and rosettes are used to fill up spaces1 or in combination1 to form lace4 ,,no4 #be4--,,rosette ,,in ,,raised ,,point ,d',,angleterre4--,this rosette is worked in a manner similar to the ,english wheel1 the difference being that after each stitch is passed round and under the bars1 the thread is passed loosely around in the reverse direction1 as shown in the illustration1 before proceeding to make the next stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #be4--,rosette in ,raised ,point d',angleterre4 ,,no4 #bf4--,,mechlin ,,lace ,,wheels4--,this is one of the prettiest stitches in point lace1 but also one of the most difficult to work correctly4 ,it is made thus3 ,work a number of diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction1 then begin at the opposite side in the same way1 and work #e or #f stitches past the spot where the two lines cross2 pass the thread round the cross twice1 under and over the thread to form a circle4 ,work in button-hole stitch half of one-quarter1 make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight1 and work #c button-hole stitches in the loop held open by the pin1 then take the pin out and continue as before4 ,beginners will do well to omit the dot1 leaving the loop only on the wheel4 ,mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and parallel lines of thread4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bf4--,mechlin ,lace ,wheels4 ,,no4 #bg4--;,,english ,,wheel4--,this is worked in the same manner as ,sorrento wheels1 but instead of winding the thread over and under the bars1 the needle is inserted under each bar1 and brought out again between the thread and the last stitch2 this produces a kind of button-hole stitch1 and gives the square1 firm appearance possessed by this wheel4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bg4--;,english ,wheel4 ,,nos4 #bh ,,and #cj4--,,sorrento ,,wheel4--,this is worked by fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up1 as indicated by the letters4 ,fasten it first to the place a1 then at place b1 carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round2 fasten again at c1 carrying it back again to the center by winding it around the bar1 and so on to all the letters2 then work over and under the bars thus formed4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bh4--,sorrento ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cj4--,sorrento ,wheel4 ,,no4 #bi4--;,,close ,,english ,,wheels4--,these wheels may be used in open spaces and may be very easily made from the engraving4 ,they are much like the wheels used in drawn work--indeed1 many of the stitches used in lace are identical with those used in drawn-work4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bi4--;,close ,english ,wheels4 ,,bars ,,and ,,picots4 ,the word ,bar is applied to the many stitches used to connect the various parts of point lace1 and the beauty of the work depends greatly upon the class of bar selected and its suitability to the lace stitches used4 ,,nos4 #ca ,,and #cb4--,,raleigh ,,bars4--,these bars are much used in making ,battenburg lace and are very effective4 ,they are worked over a foundation or net-work of coarse thread1 and are twisted in places so that they will more easily fall into the desired form4 ,by following the numbering from #a to #ba1 in ,no4 #ca1 a square place may be easily filled1 and portions of this arrangement applied to form ground-work of any shape desired4 ,upon this ground-work tight point de ,bruxelles stitches are made1 and the dot worked upon these in one of the following ways3 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ca4--,net-work for ,working ,raleigh ,bars4 ,,dot ,,or ,,picot4--,first ,method4--,make #e tight point de ,bruxelles stitches1 #a loose point de ,bruxelles2 pass the needle under the loop and over the thread1 as shown in point de ,venise bars at ,no4 #dg1 on page #ah1 and draw up1 leaving a small1 open loop as in tatting4 ,work #e tight point de ,bruxelles stitches1 and repeat4 ,second ,method4--,proceed as above directed1 but instead of continuing the tight stitches1 work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed and repeat4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cb4--,raleigh ,bars4 ,third ,method4--,work #d tight point de ,bruxelles stitches2 #a loose1 through which pass the needle point1 wind the thread three or four times round the point 7see ,no4 #dh1 page #ah71 press the thumb tightly on this1 and draw the needle and thread through the twists4 ,this is a quick mode of making the picot1 and imitates most closely the real ,spanish lace4 ,illustration ,no4 #dh shows how this stitch may also be applied as a regular ground-work1 but the beauty of old point ground-work bars consists of variety in form4 ,,no4 #cc4--;,,italian ,,ground ,,stitch4--,commence at the left side1 and work as follows3 ,first row4--,make a loose button-hole stitch to form a loop a quarter of an inch wide1 and then make a plain stitch into the loop to twist it1 and continue to the end4 ,second row4--,make two plain stitches into each loop1 working back to the left4 ,third row4--,repeat first row4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cc4--;,italian ,ground ,stitch4 ,,no4 #cd4--,,open ,,lace ,,bars4--,pass a thread from right to left4 ,make it firm by working a second stitch into the braid2 work #b button-hole stitches on this line of thread1 close together4 ,then work #a button-hole stitch on the lower thread at the left hand side1 and draw it close to the #b stitches on the line of thread4 ,miss the space of #b and repeat4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cd4--,open ,lace ,bars4 ,,nos4 #ce ,,and #cf4--,,sorrento ,,bars4--,each of the bars is worked from right to left1 a straight thread being carried across and fastened securely with a stitch4 ,the return consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread2 three of these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between the groups4 ,the thread is sewn carefully over the braid in passing from one spot to another4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ce4--,sorrento ,bars4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cf4--,sorrento ,bars4 ,,nos4 #cg ,,and #ch4--,,venetian ,,bars4--,the bar at ,no4 #cg is so simple that it really needs no description4 ,it is worked over two straight threads in reverse button-hole stitch4 ,no4 #ch shows the ,venetian bar used as the veining of a leaf and worked upon ,sorrento bars4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cg4--,venetian ,bars4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ch4--,venetian ,bars4 ,,no4 #ci4--,,point ,d',,anvers ,,bars4--,two upright bars form the foundation4 ,the thread is carried over and under them as seen in the engraving1 the side loops being added by the method depicted at the top of the point4 ,the over and under work in point d',anvers bars1 without the side loops1 is often used for plain bars for filling in odd spaces or wheels in heavy lace4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ci4--,point d',anvers ,bars4 ,,no4 #dj4--,,point ,,grecque ,,bars4--,these bars are so simply made that they are great favorites with beginners4 ,they are begun at the top of the point1 one straight thread being carried to the bottom2 then the cross bars are worked after the method seen in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dj4--,point ,grecque ,bars4 ,,no4 #da4--;,,bars ,,of ,,point ,d',,angleterre4--,these bars may be worked singly or to fill up a space1 as in the illustration4 ,work rosettes as in point d',angleterre2 when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the foundation thread to the top1 fasten with one stitch1 then pass it under the parallel line running through the center and over into the opposite braid2 repeat on each side of each rosette1 inserting the threads as seen in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #da4--;,bars of ,point d',angleterre4 ,,no4 #db4--,,point ,,de ,,venise ,,bars 7,,edged74--,begin at the right hand and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid1 fastening it with one tight stitch of point de ,bruxelles4 ,upon this line work a succession of tight point de ,bruxelles stitches4 ,then in every third stitch work one point de ,venise stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #db4--,point de ,venise ,bars 7,edged74 ,,no4 #dc4--;,d',,alencon ,,and ,,sorrento ,,bars4--,at ,nos4 #ce and #cf 7page #af71 a description of the method of making ,sorrento bars is given1 while at ,no4 #ai 7page #ab71 is a description of plain and fancy d',alencon stitches4 ,the two methods are combined in the work seen at ,no4 #dc where the process is so clearly illustrated that a mere novice in lace-work could not fail to produce it perfectly4 ,the combined stitch is used in filling in spaces1 etc41 etc4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dc4--;d',alencon ,and ,sorrento ,bars4 ,,no4 #dd4--,,picot ,,or ,,dot ,,on ,,sorrento ,,bar4--,this dot is worked between rows of point de ,bruxelles1 #c twisted stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread2 this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dd4--,picot or ,dot on ,sorrento ,bar4 ,,no4 #de4--;,d',,alencon ,,bars4--,these bars are worked upon point de ,bruxelles edging1 and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern1 never being used as ground-work bars4 ,the thread is merely passed three times over and under the point de ,bruxelles stitches1 the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled2 when the third bar is completed a tight point de ,bruxelles stitch fastens off the bars1 and the thread is passed through the next point de ,bruxelles stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #de4--;d',alencon ,bars4 ,,no4 #df4--,,plain ,,venetian ,,bars4--,these bars are worked so as to form squares1 triangles1 etc41 in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread4 ,the arrow in the illustration points to the direction for working the next stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #df4--,plain ,venetian ,bars4 ,,no4 #dg4--;,,dotted ,,point ,,de ,,venise ,,bars4--,these pretty bars are worked as follows3 ,stretch the thread from right to left2 on this work #e tight stitches of point de ,bruxelles1 then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it open and loose1 pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the thread1 as clearly shown in the illustration1 and in this loop work #c tight point de ,bruxelles stitches4 ,then work #e more stitches and repeat to end of row4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dg4--;,dotted ,point de ,venise ,bars4 ,the making of the dots or purls before mentioned as picots1 is an important feature in bar work4 ,all three names are employed for the same class of stitch4 ,,no4 #dh4--,,third ,,method ,,of ,,making ,,picots ,,or ,,dots4--,this method has been fully described in connection with the making of ,raleigh ,bars at ,nos4 #ca and #cb 7page #ae71 and requires no further description at this point4 ,all dots and picots render work much more effective1 and may be introduced at will by the worker4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dh4--,third ,method of ,making ,picots or ,dots4 ,in making modern lace1 the various kinds require appropriate braids4 ,there are three classes of these braids--those for ,battenburg lace1 those for plain ,honiton and point1 and those for the newest kind of lace1 which is called the ,ideal ,honiton4 ,each class of braids contains many designs and widths1 and a large number of them1 together with various cords1 buttons and rings also used are illustrated on following pages4 ,,fancy ,,braids1 ,,cords1 ,,rings ,,and ,,buttons4 ,,braids4 ,the braids1 cords1 rings and buttons illustrated upon the following two pages are all used in modern lace-making4 ,they are all made of pure linen thread1 and according to the fancy1 the lace including them may be heavy or light4 ,royal ,battenburg lace1 as originated1 was heavy--in some cases massive2 but at present many lighter varieties are made1 as will be surmised upon an inspection of the braids for its manufacture which are represented on the pages mentioned4 ,as shown by ,no4 #a1 these braids are about a third narrower than their actual width1 and the picot edges numbered #af and #ag are plain tatting made for the purpose1 as the picot edges woven for lighter laces are not heavy enough for ,battenburg lace4 ,the numbers opposite the specimens are simply for convenience in ordering1 if the order is sent the lady mentioned in another part of the book as the ,pioneer of ,lace-,making in ,america2 but in ordering from other lace-makers or manufacturers of braids1 these numbers will be of little use1 as every lace-maker or manufacturer has his or her own individual identifications for materials4 ,almost any of the braids1 or those very similar1 may be found at large fancy stores1 but in buying them at such stores1 be careful to get linen braids1 as cotton braids do not make pretty lace1 neither do they wear or launder well4 ,in ordering these braids from other lace-makers or from fancy stores1 it will be necessary to forward the illustration of the kind wanted1 as the braids cannot be described with sufficient accuracy to obtain the desired varieties4 ,some are sold by the yard1 some by the dozen yards and others by the piece1 according to the position to be occupied in the work4 ,the point1 ,honiton and ,princess braids are represented full size1 and are much daintier in texture than the ,battenburg braids4 ,of this class of braids 7see ,no4 #b7 are made the plain ,honiton and point laces1 and the braids for these two laces combined produce the ,princess lace--a creation whose beauty fully entitles it to its royal name4 ,the braids seen at ,no4 #c1 page #ba1 are those which are used in making the new ,ideal ,honiton lace represented in another portion of the book4 ,as illustrated1 these braids are three-quarters of their proper widths1 the top braid1 ,no4 #ch1 being just one inch wide in the fabric itself4 ,the ,ideal ,honiton is one of the prettiest laces made1 and is very appropriate for tidies1 doilies1 squares and scarfs4 ,it is daintily secured to the finest of lawn in charming designs1 and then the lawn is cut out from beneath it4 7,see doily1 page #cc74 ,the cords seen at ,no4 #d are used in making ,battenburg laces1 and greatly increase the beauty of the work in addition to forming a distinctive species of lace4 ,after the ordinary ,battenburg is worked with quite thick braid1 the cord1 in any size desired1 is used to follow one edge of the design1 as will be seen from illustrations upon other following pages4 ,,rings ,,and ,,buttons4 ,the rings and buttons illustrated1 are made throughout of linen thread in layers of button-hole stitches1 and are sold by the dozen or gross4 ,buttons arranged as grapes 7see ,no4 #ej1 page #ba71 add greatly to the sumptuous effect of a heavy lace1 and may be purchased already arranged as illustrated1 or they may be arranged by the purchaser of a quantity of them4 ,the latter method is a good plan if spaces are to be filled with clusters which must be of a certain shape4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4--;,braids used in ,making ,battenburg ,lace4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4--;,braids used in ,making ,honiton1 ,point and ,princess ,lace4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4--;,braids used in ,making ,ideal ,honiton ,lace4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4--;,cords1 ,rings and ,buttons used in ,making ,battenburg ,lace4 ,,designs1 ,,lace ,,articles1 ,,edgings1 ,,insertions1 ,,etc41 ,,in ,,modern ,,lace4 ,of necessity1 most of the designs and specimens given on this and the following pages are smaller than the articles they represent1 but they afford a correct idea of the method of making and the beauty of ,modern ,lace1 and also its adaptability to dainty accessories of the toilet and the household4 ,as before mentioned any design desired can be obtained from any lace-making establishment in any size1 width or shape1 according to the requirements of the article or lace to be made1 and individual taste4 ,ingenious students will no doubt be able to adapt for themselves the designs offered1 but it is not advisable for those who have no talent in the matter of drawing or designing to undertake an elaborate adaptation1 though they may easily accomplish a simple one4 ,besides1 a professional designer will furnish the design for a moderate sum1 perfectly outlined upon tracing cloth1 with ink1 and with the proper filling-in stitches perfectly delineated2 and if the student wishes it1 will select the thread and braid appropriate for the design2 or the student may select the braid she fancies1 and the designer will then select the thread suitable for the braid4 ,no4 #a4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,lace ,,handkerchief4 ,this design is suitable for point lace braid1 but is of course very much reduced in size1 in order to show the effect and arrangement of a design ready for working1 as sent out from the lace-maker's4 ,by a reference to the various stitches illustrated on preceding pages1 the stitches shown in one corner of the design may be readily identified4 ,the following engraving shows how braid is applied to a design before the stitches are begun4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4--;,design for a ,lace ,handkerchief4 ,no4 #b4 ,,method ,,of ,,placing ,,braid ,,upon ,,designs4 ,this illustration shows the method of arranging braid upon designs for modern lace1 and how1 after the braid is basted along the pattern1 the tracing cloth is basted to toile ciree or to smooth1 light brown wrapping paper to provide sufficient firmness for working4 ,the following instructions apply particularly to engraving ,no4 #b1 but their principle should be observed and applied to any design decided upon1 as good results in lace-making largely depend upon the arrangement of the braid4 ,run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge1 with fine stitches1 working as shown1 from left to right4 ,take another piece of braid1 or the other end of the same piece1 and begin to lay the braid by running stitches in its center1 keeping it as smooth and even as possible4 ,the outer edge presents no difficulty1 but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread1 as follows3 ,fasten whipping thread securely1 and insert the needle in and out of the edge of the braid1 as if for fine gathering2 this thread when drawn up will keep the braid in its place4 ,two or three fastening-off stitches should be worked when each circle1 half circle1 or rounded curve of a pattern is finished1 as the drawing or gathering thread remains in the work1 and forms an important1 though unseen1 part of its structure4 ,before cutting off the braid run a few stitches across it to prevent it from widening4 ,joins should be avoided1 but when a join is indispensable1 stitch the braid together1 open and turn back the ends1 and stitch each portion down separately4 ,when passing the thread from one part to another1 run it along the center of the braid1 allowing the stitches to show as little as possible4 ,in commencing1 make a few stitches1 leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and cutting it off afterwards4 ,in fastening off1 make a tight button-hole stitch1 run in three stitches1 bring the needle out at the back1 and cut off4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4--,method of ,placing ,braid upon ,designs4 ,no4 #c4 ,,royal ,,battenburg ,,lace ,,bureau-,,scarf4 ,the engraving on the opposite page represents the article above mentioned1 and shows the effectiveness of this magnificent and durable lace4 ,in actual size the scarf is about a yard and one-half long and one-half yard wide1 and is made of a heavy ,battenburg braid1 having a fancy edge 7,see ,nos4 #e or #g1 on page #bj7 and cord1 rings and buttons4 ,the main part of the design is outlined with the braid1 cord is used as a veining for the leaves1 and the rings and buttons are introduced here and there over the surface1 as seen in the picture4 ,raleigh bars with picots connect the border and center designs1 while the palms along the border as well as other small spaces are filled in with point ,turque and point de ,grecque stitches4 ,sorrento bars are also used in some of the long leaf-like spaces1 while in a few of the circular spaces point d',angleterre rosettes are introduced4 ,these rosettes are also frequently called spiders1 and are made1 according to the space1 large or small2 and according to the requirements of the braid selected1 heavy or light4 ,for convenience in giving the name of this lace1 the full title is rarely used--,battenburg ,lace being considered sufficient to identify the fabric from the other and lighter laces4 ,battenburg lace is made both heavy and light1 according to personal taste or the object for which the lace is intended1 but it was originally designed for heavy work only4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4--,royal ,battenburg ,lace ,bureau-scarf4 ,no4 #d4 ,,point ,,lace ,,doily ,,for ,a ,,toilet ,,cushion4 ,this dainty doily may be made of the point lace braids illustrated at ,nos4 #cj and #ca1 together with the picot edging ,no4 #cf1 seen on page #bj4 ,in filling in the spaces1 thread suitable for the braid is used1 and the stitches are point de ,valenciennes1 point d',espagne1 ,sorrento bars1 point de ,bruxelles1 open rings and spiders4 ,as all of these stitches1 with many others are illustrated in that section of this book devoted to stitches1 it will be unnecessary to repeat the details for making1 as they are fully given in the department mentioned4 ,it will also be understood that most of the articles illustrated are not of full size1 but in some instances are nearly so4 ,the doily just described is illustrated about three-quarters of its actual size2 but by using a fine braid a doily of fairy-like texture1 and just the size of the engraving may be produced4 ,any one accustomed to drawing may enlarge this or any of the designs given1 but only clever fingers should try this experiment4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4--,point ,lace ,doily for a ,toilet ,cushion4 ,no4 #e4 ,,battenburg ,,edging1 ,,with ,,cord4 ,this is a very elegant looking lace1 though simply made after the regular ,battenburg method4 ,a plain braid 7,no4 #aj1 page #bj7 is chosen to form the outlines1 and after the stitches are filled in1 cord of a suitable size is carried around the petals and foliage of the design1 and rows of it are also used to indicate the vine1 though the latter may be outlined with the tape and then with the cord4 ,the petals of the blossoms are filled in in point de ,bruxelles and point de ,venise stitches1 while point d',espagne and point ,brabancon are used for the foliage and vine4 ,point ,grecque and d',alencon bars are also used at the very heart of the blossom1 and ,raleigh net-work bars connect the design to the edge and are dotted here and there with spiders4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4--;,battenburg ,lace1 with ,cord4 ,no4 #f4 ,,battenburg ,,insertion1 ,,with ,,cord4 ,this insertion matches the edging or lace above described1 and is1 therefore1 made in exactly the same way1 except that the design is double4 ,both the edging and insertion may be made of any width desired2 and the design will be found very pretty for fancy-edge or plain braids without the cord4 ,buttons or rings may be used in place of the spiders seen in the engravings if preferred4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4--;,battenburg ,insertion1 with ,cord4 ,no4 #g4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,honiton ,,lace ,,cap4 ,the design illustrated is1 of necessity1 much smaller than the cap it is intended for2 but the clever student may easily enlarge it to1 or design one for herself of the size required4 ,lace-makers will duplicate designs in any size desired for a moderate sum1 thus saving the amateur much work and at the same time putting her to little expense4 ,the design here illustrated might also be used for handkerchief corners1 scarf-ends1 etc41 etc42 and any of the stitches illustrated on preceding pages may be selected for filling-in purposes4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4--;,design for a ,honiton ,lace ,cap4 ,no4 #h4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,corner ,,in ,,battenburg1 ,,point1 ,,or ,,honiton ,,lace4 ,according to the article to be decorated1 this design will be found appropriate for either of the braids used for the laces above mentioned4 ,for table scarfs1 tidies1 heavy borders1 etc41 etc41 the ,battenburg braids should be selected2 but for handkerchiefs or doilies1 the point or ,honiton braids are the proper ones to choose for this design4 ,raleigh bars1 ,brussels point and any other stitches preferred1 may be used in filling in the spaces4 ,when a design is procured from a lace-maker a portion of it is always marked with the stitches to be used2 but this is not an arbitrary matter1 since the one who is to make the lace1 may desire to and may insert other stitches in preference to those indicated4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4--;,design for a ,corner in ,battenburg1 ,point1 or ,honiton ,lace4 ,no4 #i4 ,,doily ,,in ,,ideal ,,honiton ,,lace-,,work ,,and ,,linen ,,lawn4 ,one of the prettiest and the very newest of the modern laces is here illustrated4 ,it is made of two of the many varieties of ,honiton braids1 wash-silk floss and linen lawn4 ,the braid is basted smoothly upon a square of lawn in the design illustrated 7though individual taste will no doubt suggest many other equally pretty designs71 after which the inner edges of the braid are permanently secured by a short and long stitch4 ,this is merely a short and long button-hole stitch reversed so that the cross loops are on the edge of the braid1 while the stitches them selves extend beyond the braid1 into the lawn1 as seen in the engraving4 ,two short stitches alternate with single long ones throughout this part of the work4 ,the outer edges are then fastened to the square by tiny button-hole scollops4 ,then the lawn is cut from under the squares formed by the braid1 and the openings are button-holed through the lawn and braid so that the edges of the lawn will not fray4 ,when this is done the spaces are filled in with fancy stitches1 and when they are completed the lawn is cut away from the edge-scollops with a pair of fine sharp1 scissors4 ,in the doily illustrated spiders and point de ,venise stitches are used for filling in the spaces4 ,the floss used may be white or tinted1 the latter washing as well as the white2 but as a rule1 white or yellow flosses are selected in preference to other colors4 ,ideal ,honiton scarfs1 tidies1 doilies1 pillow shams1 tray cloths1 etc41 etc41 may be purchased with the braid already basted on in a pretty design and with the necessary threads or floss1 or they may be designed at home1 and by either method will result in a beautiful variety of modern lace4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #i4--;,doily of ,ideal ,honiton ,lace and ,linen ,lawn4 ,no4 #aj4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,corner ,,in ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,although this design is intended for ,battenburg lace1 and may be made up of any of the braids used for that kind of lace1 it will also be found suitable for the finer point or ,honiton braids for handkerchiefs1 doilies1 mats1 etc41 etc4 ,as illustrated it would be suitable for a handkerchief4 ,enlarged and followed in ,battenburg braid it would make a very handsome border for a table-scarf1 curtains or draperies1 or a substantial decoration for a gown of wash fabric or other goods4 ,raleigh bars1 spiders and point de ,bruxelles stitches are used for filling in1 and a dainty picot edge is sewed to the outer line of the braid4 ,plain or fancy braid may be used for this design4 ,if fancy loop-edge braid is selected1 the picot edge will not be needed1 the loops taking its place4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aj4--;,design for a ,corner in ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #aa4 ,,battenburg ,,edging4 ,the edging here illustrated is represented about one-third less than its actual width1 but the design is so distinctly brought out that its beauty in any width may be readily conceived4 ,it is formed of fancy ,battenburg braid1 but may be made from a plain variety if preferred4 ,the design is known as the fern leaf and is easy to follow4 ,sorrento bars are used to connect the work1 and spiders are made here and there to add variety to the work4 ,point de ,bruxelles stitches are used to fill in the spaces at the sides of the leaves1 and1 with the fancy braid1 produce a very dainty1 delicate effect4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aa4--;,battenburg ,edging4 ,no4 #ab4 ,,battenburg ,,insertion4 ,this insertion is made to match the edging seen above it1 but is much wider than the edging1 though formed of the same braid4 ,either design could be varied so as to result in an edging and insertion of equal width1 or the edging could be arranged for an insertion1 and the insertion illustrated changed into an edging4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ab4--;,battenburg ,insertion4 ,no4 #ac4 ,,finger-,,bowl ,,doily ,,of ,,princess ,,lace ,,and ,,linen ,,lawn4 ,princess lace1 7also known as ,duchesse lace7 as elsewhere mentioned1 results from combining ,honiton and point lace braids in one design2 and a charming specimen of this lovely lace is here illustrated4 ,the doily is pictured only a trifle smaller than its actual size1 and even in its full size is a very dainty affair4 ,after the braids are basted along the design1 they are then connected by twisted bars that are an adaptation from the point d',alencon bars with the twisted stitch2 and the spaces are filled in in small d',angleterre rosettes or spiders4 ,as few bars as possible are employed for the spiders1 in order to produce a very delicate effect4 ,the lawn center is added last4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ac4--;,finger-,bowl ,doily of ,princess ,lace and ,linen ,lawn4 ,no4 #ad4 ,,design ,,for ,,insertion1 ,,or ,a ,,center-,,piece1 ,,in ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,as suggested by the title1 the design here presented may be used for insertion1 or for a center to a table cloth or scarf1 or a handsome spread4 ,as represented it is intended for a center-piece1 and the lace from which the engraving was made is about half-a-yard long and one-fourth of a yard wide4 ,the ground-work is formed of ,raleigh bars made with picots1 and the loops of braid are filled in with twisted point d',alencon bars4 ,this center-piece is very pretty made of ribbon with silk thread for the bars1 and in this event it may be made of any color desired1 and added to a spread or scarf of ,surah silk or fine cloth1 for which a border to match may be made4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ad4--;,design for ,insertion1 or a ,center-piece1 in ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #ae4 ,,queen ,,anne ,,tray-,,cloth ,,of ,,battenburg ,,lace ,,and ,,linen4 ,this pretty cloth is intended for a ,queen ,anne tray1 and its lace edges curve upward and just over the rim of the tray when it is laid upon it4 ,the center is of fine table-linen1 while the edge is formed of ,battenburg braid1 buttons and fancy stitches4 ,as will be seen1 the corner spaces are filled in with point d',angleterre rosettes or spiders1 the large border spaces and corresponding corner ones are filled in with picot bars1 while the very fine work seen in the triangles and square spaces are point de ,venise stitches1 and half-spiders are made in the other triangles4 ,the narrow1 straight inner border is composed of bars and tiny buttons arranged as represented4 ,the cloth is hem-stitched before the braid is laid on1 and the corners are cut out from underneath after the work is otherwise completed4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ae4--,queen ,anne ,tray-,cloth of ,battenburg ,lace and ,linen4 ,no4 #af4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,butterfly ,,in ,,point ,,lace4 7,,full ,,size74 ,butterflies for the corners of handkerchiefs1 scarf-ends and the points of caps or coiffures are favorite designs in point and ,honiton laces4 ,the one illustrated is very dainty and exceedingly simple to execute4 ,the upper portion of each wing has a point de reprise ground-work1 but the solid sections are tiny spiders instead of point de reprise triangles4 ,the outer tips of the wings are filled in with ,raleigh bars1 while similar bars1 point de ,bruxelles stitches and a point d',angleterre rosette complete the lower wings4 ,any of the fine point or ,honiton braids may be chosen for the outlining of the butterfly1 and a fine over-and-over stitch or fine cord may be used to mark the lines extending from the head4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #af4--;,design for a ,butterfly in ,point ,lace4 7,full ,size74 ,no4 #ag4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,doily ,,or ,,handkerchief ,,of ,,point ,,or ,,honiton ,,lace4 ,this design1 as illustrated1 is of course too small for either a doily or handkerchief1 but an expert lace-maker can enlarge it to any size desired2 and the clever amateur will find no difficulty in doing the same thing1 as the outlines are not at all intricate1 and may be easily followed4 ,in sending for the braid for this1 or similar designs1 it is advisable to permit the lace-maker addressed to select them1 and of course1 the thread1 since her long experience enables her at once to correctly judge what materials are appropriate for the articles you wish to make1 especially if she knows the size the article is desired to be4 ,the stitches1 as here indicated1 are point d',angleterre rosettes1 and point de fillet1 with small spiders on the latter4 ,a dainty picot-braid edges the design4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ag4--;,design for a ,doily or ,handkerchief of ,point or ,honiton ,lace4 7,half ,size47 ,no4 #ah4 ,,cardinal',s ,,point ,,lace4 ,this engraving represents a modern adaptation of an ancient lace which may be made of fancy ,battenburg braid and plain ,raleigh bars4 ,the design is not especially definite in its outlines1 and may be imitated with any variations which may seem pleasing to the copyist4 ,the picots are made after the method directed at the illustration of point de ,venise bars in the department devoted to stitches4 ,cardinal's point of genuine make is of ,italian origin1 and in the earlier eras1 was largely used for the decoration of church vestments and draperies4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ah4--;,cardinal's ,point ,lace4 ,nos4 #ai and #bj4 ,,battenburg ,,edging ,,and ,,insertion1 ,,with ,,cord4 ,these two engravings show a very pretty design for ,battenburg lace made with a cord finish4 ,the application of the cord has been fully described elsewhere1 where a different design of the same kind of work is given4 ,in the present instance the spaces are filled in with twisted bars1 spiders and rosettes in point d',angleterre4 ,the specimens from which the engravings were made are a trifle wider than seen in the pictures2 but the width is a matter of individual taste1 and also a result of the braid selected4 ,a professional lace-maker will enlarge or adapt the design to accord with personal requirements4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ai4--;,battenburg ,edging1 with ,cord4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bj4--;,battenburg ,insertion1 with ,cord4 ,no4 #ba4 ,,tape-,,guipure ,,design1 ,,found ,,in ,,an ,,old ,,church4 ,the design here illustrated was found in the old church of ,santa ,margherita1 in ,italy4 ,it was drawn on parchment1 and was undoubtedly intended as a design for altar lace4 ,it was mentioned in a book of accounts for the year #aeib1 found in the archives of the church designated and is therefore of antique origin2 but it may be easily adapted to modern methods of lace-making1 and could be appropriately filled in with either ,italian or ,genoa lace stitches or with a combination of both1 and twisted bars4 ,done with fancy ,battenburg braid1 it would be quite similar in effect to the ,cardinal's ,point illustrated on another page4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ba4--,tape-,guipure ,design1 found in an ,old ,church4 ,no4 #bb4 ,,battenburg ,,church ,,lace4 ,the engraving opposite illustrates a magnificent specimen of ,modern ,church ,lace made of ,battenburg braid with a limited introduction of ,honiton braid4 ,the specimen itself is considerably wider than represented1 but as the width is a matter of individual taste1 the engraving will serve as a design for a narrow church lace4 ,sorrento bars are used to connect the braids and to form foundations for the spiders or rosettes here and there inserted1 and the lace is delicately bordered with a dainty picot-braid4 ,the fancy stitches in the main portions of the cross are point de ,valenciennes1 while those in the minor sections are point de ,bruxelles4 ,point de fillet is used for the central portion of the large ,t-shaped symbol1 while the stitch forming the other symbol is one never used except for church lace1 and consists of two or three sets of fine stitches so interlaced as to seem to form one solid stitch4 ,in making church lace any insignia desired can be introduced by a professional designer--an accomplishment that is usually beyond the inventive powers of the novice in lace-making4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bb4--;,battenburg ,church ,lace4 ,no4 #bc4 ,,english ,,needle-,,point4 ,this is a very handsome design combining the lily and the rose4 ,the foundation work is made with unbleached linen braid having an ornamental edge1 and the filling-in is done with fine and coarse linen thread in various stitches4 ,raleigh bars with picots define the upper edge of the edging1 and ,sorrento bars on which buttons are worked form the ground work4 ,point de ,grecque1 point d',angleterre1 d',alencon bars plain and twisted1 point de ,bruxelles and spiders are also used in making this lace1 as will be seen from a close inspection of the engraving4 ,this specimen of lace is very handsome when developed in black silk braids and silk thread1 for black costumes4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bc4--;,english ,needle ,point4 ,no4 #bd4 ,,punch-,,glass ,,doily ,,of ,,point ,,lace ,,and ,,lawn4 ,as represented this doily is about three-fourths of its actual size4 ,it is made of fine linen lawn1 and a set generally comprises a dozen4 ,fine point lace braid is used to outline the design1 and then rosettes in point d',angleterre1 and spiders or small rosettes are made in the openings as represented4 ,the alternate outer scallops are filled in with point de ,bruxelles stitches1 and a dainty picot-braid is added to the edge by the usual over-and-over stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bd4--,punch-,glass ,doily of ,point ,lace and ,lawn4 ,no4 #be4 ,,point ,,lace ,,collar ,,and ,,cuff4 ,a very handsome point lace set is here illustrated1 and may be easily followed by an expert lace-maker2 but it will be wiser for the novice to obtain a pattern or design of the shape and size desired1 from a professional lace-maker4 ,point de ,grecque1 point de ,bruxelles1 point de ,venise1 ,sorrento bars1 and rosettes and rings are all employed in carrying out this design4 ,as elsewhere mentioned1 any fine stitch preferred may be used for filling-in purposes when those suggested or marked out upon a design are not admired4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #be4--,point ,lace ,collar and ,cuff4 ,no4 #bf4 ,,design ,,for ,,table ,,scarf ,,in ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,the scarf-end from which this design was copied is about ten inches deep1 and it is about fourteen or fifteen inches wide4 ,it will be seen from these dimensions1 that it is impossible to produce a full-size design of it on these pages1 but one of any size desired may be obtained at any lace-makers2 or1 a clever student of lace-making may enlarge the design to suit her own requirements4 ,according to the size of the scarf-end1 wide or narrow braid must be selected1 with thread to correspond4 ,the stitches used in filling in are point de fillet1 point de ,bruxelles and point d',angleterre1 and ,raleigh1 ,sorrento and d',alencon bars1 and rosettes and spiders4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bf4--;,design for a ,table ,scarf in ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #bg4 ,,apple ,,design ,,for ,a ,,corner ,,in ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,this design is for the corner of a scarf1 spread1 tidy or pillow-sham and is very popular1 as it is effective though simply made4 ,the fine stitches are point de ,bruxelles1 while the others are ,raleigh1 ,sorrento and point ,grecque bars4 ,plain or fancy braid1 or a combination of both may be used in this design with a charming effect4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bg4--;,apple ,design for a ,corner in ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #bh4 ,,roman ,,punch-,,glass ,,doily ,,in ,,point ,,lace4 ,doilies of this description are generally made about four inches square4 ,the engraving opposite pictures the doily mentioned as somewhat smaller1 but the design is sufficiently large to enable the student to make her doilies as large as she desires them to be1 as it is easy to follow4 ,the corner spaces are filled in with twisted bars and rings worked at the same time2 but rosettes or spiders may be worked in place of the rings if preferred4 ,the corner spaces are filled in in point ,brabancon1 and for those at each side point de ,bruxelles is used4 ,the doily is edged with a fine picot-braid that finishes it daintily1 and very sheer linen lawn is used for the center4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bh4--,roman ,punch-,glass ,doily in ,point ,lace4 ,no4 #bi4 ,,modern ,,russian ,,lace4 ,the design illustrated may be followed in ,battenburg braid or plain lace tape1 and any of the fancy stitches mentioned and described among the rosettes1 bars and picots may be employed for filling-in purposes4 ,cream white or unbleached braids or tapes are prettier for ,russian lace than pure white4 ,russian lace is a very durable as well as effective trimming for household draperies1 and also for gowns of wash fabrics or those of cotton fabrics which will not need renovating4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bi4--,modern ,russian ,lace4 ,no4 #cj4 ,,russian ,,lace4 ,this engraving represents a specimen of genuine ,russian lace made of fine braid1 and wrought with bars similar to ,raleigh bars1 except that they have no picots4 ,the ,russians have always been noted for their exquisite needle-work1 but as a nation they have never had any established lace manufactory4 ,the workers of the small amount of lace produced are scattered about at their own houses1 and many of them are poor ladies of gentle birth4 ,most of the laces1 however1 are made by the peasantry1 who bring them to ,st4 ,petersburg where sale for them is found4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cj4--,russian ,lace4 ,no4 #ca4 ,,bow-,,knot ,,design ,,for ,,modern ,,lace4 ,this fashionable design may be developed in various widths and braids as an insertion1 or as an applique on lawn4 ,the ground-work may be formed of ,raleigh bars1 or of twisted bars made like the net-work for ,raleigh bars4 ,the loops of the bows may be filled in with point de ,bruxelles or any fine stitch preferred4 ,the design is pretty for bordering table scarfs1 tidies1 valances and curtains when heavy braids are selected4 ,the finer braids render the design appropriate for handkerchiefs and dainty trimming laces4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ca4--;,bow-,knot ,design for ,modern ,lace4 ,no4 #cb4 ,,princess ,,lace ,,doily ,,design4 ,the design here illustrated may be enlarged or simplified to please individual taste1 and it may be made of ,honiton braid as well as point4 ,the connecting stitches may be point de ,bruxelles1 ,raleigh and ,sorrento bars1 spiders or any of the fine stitches described and illustrated in the department devoted to stitches4 ,a dainty picot braid follows the outer edge of the doily4 ,this design1 enlarged sufficiently1 would form an elegant pattern for a lace handkerchief4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cb4--,princess ,lace ,doily ,design4 ,no4 #cc4 ,,altar ,,lace 7,,battenburg74 ,this very elegant specimen of altar lace is1 in reality1 about nine or ten inches deep2 but1 for want of space the engraving represents it as only about half as wide4 ,the design1 however1 is perfect in detail1 and the illustration fully displays its effectiveness1 and discloses the variety of connecting and filling-in stitches used4 ,a delicate ,battenburg braid is chosen for the foundation1 and in addition to regular lace stitches1 those from drawn work are here and there interspersed4 ,the cross is filled in in point de ,venise1 7or side stitch as it is sometimes called71 and the same stitch is seen in the central design at each side of the cross4 ,drawn-work effects are seen also in these central figures and along the borders4 ,sorrento bars are here made and knotted at the center like drawn strands1 or are connected by rosettes or spiders made in drawn-work style4 ,at the center of the cross is a large drawn-work wheel1 while small ,maltese crosses and half-crosses are made elsewhere in the work by the drawn-work method1 ,sorrento bars taking the place of the usual strands4 ,the central section of the border at the right of the cross is done in point de ,bruxelles which is afterward button-holed as in bar-work1 and a button-hole picot edge follows the lower outlines of the pattern4 ,raleigh bars with picots form the connecting ground-work throughout the work4 ,this beautiful specimen shows two distinct methods of filling in the sections between the crosses4 ,either may be used alone1 or the two may be used alternately with the crosses4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cc4--;,altar ,lace 7,battenburg47 ,no4 #cd4 ,,battenburg ,,or ,,point ,,lace ,,collar ,,and ,,cuff4 ,these engravings represent a very graceful design for a lace collar and cuffs4 ,as suggested in the title1 the set may be made of point or ,battenburg braid4 ,the leaf-points are all filled in with d',alencon bars in the twisted stitch1 while the centers are completed with rosettes or small open spiders1 and the latter are distributed elsewhere as will be seen by inspecting the engraving4 ,point de ,grecque is also introduced into some of the spaces1 and ,raleigh bars are used for the ground-work4 ,any of the stitches previously described may be used in making such a collar if those mentioned are not admired2 and the addition of buttons or rings will improve the work greatly4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cd4--;,battenburg or ,point ,lace ,collar and ,cuff4 ,no4 #ce4 ,,flounce ,,in ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,a very elegant flounce of ,battenburg lace may be made after the design represented on the opposite page4 ,the picture shows the flounce just one-half its actual width2 but even this width would be very handsome as a band for the bottom of a dress4 ,by a close inspection of the stitches seen and a reference to these illustrated in the department devoted to stitches1 the various kinds here used may be easily identified4 ,they consist of point de ,venise1 point de ,bruxelles1 ,sorrento and d',alencon bars and spiders4 ,a fine picot braid edges each side of the flounce4 ,the design can be obtained in any width desired from a reliable lace-maker4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ce4--;,flounce in ,battenburg ,lace 7,one-,half the ,actual ,width74 ,no4 #cf4 ,,butterfly ,,design ,,for ,,point ,,lace4 ,this design is for point lace braid1 and is very easily made4 ,fancy bars made after an adaptation from the d',alencon bars1 and point de ,venise stitches are used for filling in4 ,the butterfly may be used as a portion of an edging design1 or as a corner or center for any small article to be decorated4 ,the lines extending from the head are made with a fine over-and-over stitch1 or a fine cord4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cf4--;,butterfly ,design for ,point ,lace4 ,no4 #cg4 ,,venetian ,,point ,,lace4 ,this is a design containing many of the features of antique lace patterns1 and is made of narrow tape and fine cord combined with fancy stitches4 ,the lace from which the engraving is made is about twice as wide as the picture represents it1 but as the pattern differs in its sections for several inches at a time1 the design could not be given full size4 ,it will be seen that in the section illustrated no two figures are alike4 ,the filling-in stitches consist of combinations and groupings of many of the stitches previously illustrated and described4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #cg4--,venetian ,point ,lace4 ,no4 #ch4 ,,butterfly ,,design ,,for ,,fine ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,this design1 developed in ,battenburg lace with d',alencon and ,sorrento bars and small spiders or dots1 makes a pretty ornament for centers or corners1 or is effective when introduced as a part of an edging design4 ,point or ,honiton braids may also be made up by this design4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ch4--;,butterfly ,design for fine ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #ci4 ,,design ,,for ,,insertion4 ,a very pretty design for insertion is here given4 ,the braid may be basted as seen in the picture1 and then the bars may be made of single threads1 and of single threads over-wrought with button-hole stitches4 ,or1 any of the bars or other stitches described1 may be used to connect the braid and fill in the spaces4 ,tiny spiders are already used to fill in the circles4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ci4--;,design for ,insertion4 ,no4 #dj4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,lace ,,border ,,and ,,corner4 ,a great deal must be left to the ingenuity of the worker in filling in this design1 which is not of the orthodox modern variety but may be readily transformed into that class by an adaptation of modern stitches4 ,with the methods of the latter well mastered1 the worker will have no trouble in bringing out the design just as it is illustrated2 but she may also by the exercise of a little judgment and taste substitute many other pretty filling-in stitches for those here pictured4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dj4--;,design for a ,lace ,border and ,corner4 ,no4 #da4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,butterfly ,,in ,,point ,,lace4 ,another butterfly design is here given for point lace1 though it may also be developed in a larger size in ,battenburg braid for decorative purposes4 ,the filling-in stitches are d',alencon and ,raleigh bars1 point de ,venise and point de ,bruxelles1 and point d',angleterre rosettes4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #da4--;,design for a ,butterfly in ,point ,lace4 ,no4 #db4 ,,italian ,,lace4 ,this lace is of a conventional ,italian pattern1 and is filled in with the ,italian lace and ground-stitches1 and ,sorrento bars4 ,the lower edge is very daintily completed with a button-hole effect4 ,the design is simple1 elegant1 and popular1 and may be wrought in ,battenburg or the finer braids1 and in any width desired1 the braid selected and the width decided upon determining the use to which the lace shall be put4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #db4--;,italian ,lace 7,half ,size74 ,no4 #dc4 ,,modern ,,venetian ,,point4 ,the engraving shows a reduced representation of a very elegant specimen of modern lace--the reduction in size being necessary in order to present the whole design4 ,in making the lace1 narrow braid and cord are used for the foundation of the design1 and then the filling-in stitches are made and at the same time rings and buttons and bars and picots are introduced4 ,some of the filling-in stitches are combinations--as in the figures with very open bars where point d',espagne and point ,brabancon are combined1 and at the middle section of the central figure where point de ,valenciennes and point ,brabancon are combined4 ,other stitches used are d',alencon bars1 ,raleigh bars1 church stitch1 point de ,bruxelles1 spiders1 ,sorrento bars1 and picots4 ,the greater the variety in the filling-in stitches1 the more beautiful the lace4 ,a picot edge finishes the lace in a very dainty manner along its lower outline1 while a cord forms the upper edge4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dc4--,modern ,venetian ,point4 ,no4 #dd4 ,,design ,,for ,,modern ,,lace4 ,this design may be made up in ,battenburg braid1 or of point or ,honiton braid according to the texture of the lace desired4 ,in making it for garments or articles that are to be renovated occasionally1 the ,battenburg braids are advisable2 but for daintier uses1 point or ,honiton may be chosen4 ,the ,raleigh-bar stitch1 point de ,bruxelles1 and spiders may be used in following the outlines given for stitches4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dd4--;,design for ,modern ,lace4 ,no4 #de4 ,,corner ,,in ,,modern ,,lace4 ,the suggestions given above will also apply to this design1 which may be used for a table spread1 or a handkerchief1 according to the braid selected4 ,as illustrated1 the design is of pretty dimensions for a doily or a toilet-cushion cover1 or for a handkerchief4 ,all of the bar work seen may be done with single threads instead of the complete ,raleigh method1 and the rosettes or spiders may be larger or smaller as preferred4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #de4--;,corner in ,modern ,lace4 ,no4 #df4 ,,pillow-,,sham ,,of ,,battenburg ,,lace ,,and ,,linen4 ,a very elaborate pillow-sham is here illustrated4 ,it is made of ,battenburg braid and appropriate thread1 together with an intermingling of rings1 and forms one of the most elegant appointments of a handsomely furnished bed-room4 ,the pattern is very distinct and is called the rose and leaf design4 ,the ground-work is formed of rings and ,raleigh bars1 while the centers of the roses and their leaves are filled in in various fancy stitches which include the crosses and rosettes used in drawn-work1 ,sorrento bars1 points de ,venise and ,bruxelles1 d',alencon bars1 etc41 etc4 ,if desired the linen square may be made larger1 and the lace but one row of blossoms in width4 ,the square is made of the finest household linen and is completed with a broad hem-stitched hem before the lace is added4 ,the lace design may be obtained in any width desired by sending to a professional lace-maker2 or1 a clever student may be able to enlarge the design herself4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #df4--,pillow-,sham of ,battenburg ,lace and ,linen4 ,no4 #dg4 ,,design ,,for ,,princess ,,or ,,duchesse ,,lace ,,collar ,,and ,,cuffs4 ,although this design is represented very small1 it is sufficiently clear to convey a good idea of its outlines1 and enable a student of average ability to adapt it to collar and cuffs of any size desired4 ,raleigh bars are used in connecting the various portions of the braids1 while any of the fine stitches preferred may be chosen to fill in around the loops of the blossoms and foliage4 ,a fine picot braid finishes the edge4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dg4--;,design for ,princess or ,duchesse ,lace ,collar and ,cuffs4 ,no4 #dh4 ,,english ,,needle-,,point ,,lace4 ,this engraving illustrates a very beautiful specimen of modern-point lace in a design combining the lily and the rose4 ,raleigh bars and buttons render the heavy part of the work effective1 while the daintier point stitches and bars are used to fill in the floral sections--coarse and fine thread being used in the work4 ,this lace1 like any of the varieties now fashionable may be made wide or narrow1 or fine or coarse by designs furnished as required by lace-makers in general2 and the patterns may also be developed in silk or ribbon needle-point1 which is a style of ornamentation appearing extensively as a decoration for scarfs1 piano and table covers1 mantel valences1 etc41 etc4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #dh4--;,english ,needle-,point ,lace4 ,no4 #di4 ,,royal ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,this design was among the first ones of this lace to appear1 and is fully entitled to its royal name4 ,fancy ,battenburg braid was selected for the foundation1 and various stitches chosen for filling-in purposes4 ,among the stitches are point de ,bruxelles1 made similarly to the ,italian lace stitch1 point de fillet1 plain ,raleigh bars1 point d',alencon1 rosettes1 rings and point de ,grecque4 ,the central figure conveys a hint of the outlines of the royal crown1 and the lace is really sumptuous in design and texture4 ,in #ahhc1 ,mrs4 ,grace ,mc,cormick1 the originator of the design and lace was awarded a diploma for her work which was forwarded from ,washington1 where she applied for a patent for her specimens of ,royal ,battenburg lace1 of which this is one4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #di4--,royal ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #ej4 ,,roman ,,lace 7,,coral ,,pattern74 ,the design here given is for a lappet or scarf-end1 and will afford a suggestion for the making of larger articles or edging in similar arrangements of braid4 ,it will be observed that the braid forms irregular lines that recall the branchings of coral1 and it will be a very easy matter for an amateur lace-maker to similarly arrange her braid for any purpose she desires4 ,fine ,raleigh bars form the connecting work1 and a button-hole picot-finish is made along the edge of the braid which forms the border4 ,in making an edging1 a definite outline could be kept for the lower edge1 and above this an irregular or indefinite outline arranged4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ej4--,roman ,lace 7,coral ,pattern74 ,no4 #ea4 ,,tidy ,,of ,,battenburg ,,lace4 ,the tidy here illustrated is made entirely of ,battenburg lace1 and is a beautiful specimen of this kind of work4 ,the border design is the same as the one previously described for a pillow-sham1 except that but one row of the blossoms and foliage is used4 ,the center is composed of rows of braid crossed to form squares or open spaces that are filled in with rosettes in point d',angleterre4 ,this center is attached to the braid at the inner edge of the border by a series of bars arranged in d',alencon style and then wrought with the thread after the method used in d',anvers bars4 ,this tidy1 enlarged1 forms an elegant design for a pillow-sham4 ,when laid over a tinted silk spread or pillow1 a sham of this design shows its full beauty4 ,when the braid is basted on in the outlines desired1 the remainder of the work will be a pleasing pastime1 as none of it is so fine as to require very close attention4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ea4--,tidy of ,battenburg ,lace4 ,no4 #eb4 ,,modern ,,lace4 ,a handsome specimen of lace is here illustrated4 ,it will be observed that the braid from which it is made is woven like fine binding braid1 and in this respect differs from any of the lace-braids herein illustrated4 ,it will also be seen that no two figures of the design are alike1 and that various stitches are used in completing them1 many being combinations of or adaptations from the stitches illustrated at the beginning of this pamphlet4 ,the engraving is sufficiently plain to enable the worker to decide which stitches are used alone or in combination1 and to guide her correctly in their application4 ,the picot-edge is done in point de ,venise stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #eb4--,modern ,lace4 ,no4 #ec4 ,,modern-,,point ,,lace ,,edging4 ,this is an easy design to follow and is simply made4 ,heavy ,sorrento bars with picot loops form the ground-work1 while the filling-in stitches are of the same class done in fine thread in regular squares and also a combination of point de fillet and point de ,grecque4 ,a dainty picot-finish is added at the lower edge4 ,this edging is pretty for bordering draperies or decorating dresses1 and may be made as fine or as coarse as desired4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ec4--,modern-,point ,lace ,edging4 ,no4 #ed4 ,,square ,,in ,,modern-,,point ,,lace4 ,in this design will be observed a favorite combination--the rose and the butterfly4 ,close inspection will also disclose that the filling-in stitches are of a diverse character1 and that to this diversification much of the beauty of the work is due4 ,as most of the stitches are easily recognized1 and as the copyist can easily adapt methods for the combinations seen1 it will not be necessary to definitely describe them4 ,the square may be used for a scarf-end in connection with the edging ,no4 #ec seen on page #ia1 if the braid selected is sufficiently fine4 ,when coarser braid is chosen1 the square will be pretty for doilies1 tidies or the center of a table spread4 ,the design may be daintily made up of ribbon1 with silk for the stitches4 ,in this event it may be set into a scarf or drapery of ,china or ,surah silk with charming results4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ed4--,square in ,modern-,point ,lace4 ,no4 #ee4 ,,louis ,,xiv4 ,,curtain-,,lace4 ,this is a very popular decoration for curtains and vestibule doors and is made of heavy ecru or white net and braid4 ,the design selected is generally a border with a corner piece1 and sometimes a center piece4 ,the specimen here given is simply a square of the net decorated as illustrated to convey an idea of this at present fashionable curtain lace4 ,the design is first traced on tracing cloth that is then underlaid with brown paper to hold it stiffly in place4 ,the net is then laid over this and smoothly basted down so that the tracing shows through plainly4 ,then ecru or white ,battenburg braid is used to follow the design1 and is shaped into the leaves and flowers seen1 rings being used for the centers of the blossoms and ecru or white cord for the stems4 ,the net is cut from under the rings at the centers of the large roses1 and each opening is filled in with point de fillet and ,english wheels4 ,the effect is very rich and the work is not difficult to do4 ,when a curtain is thus embroidered or decorated with braid1 it is bordered the same as the square illustrated1 or upon that principle1 with rows and points of ,battenburg braid4 ,ribbon is often used in this way for tidies1 bureau scarfs and various other little household decorations1 and in this event the flower and foliage tints may be carried out in the design4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ee4--,louis ,,xiv4 ,curtain-,lace4 ,,darned-,,net ,,scarfs1 ,,kerchiefs1 ,,tidies1 ,,edgings1 ,,insertions1 ,,etc41 ,,etc41 ,,with ,,designs ,,for ,,the ,,same ,,and ,,other ,,articles4 ,bobbin net1 or bobbinet1 or net as it is now commonly called1 was first made by machinery in #ahji1 and was so called because the threads from which it was made were wound upon bobbins1 and twisted into meshes instead of being looped in knitting style as they were previous to the invention of the machine4 ,the latter was invented by ,john ,heathcoat1 the son of an ,english farmer2 but to ,france must be given the credit of introducing the darned work by which some of its costliest net laces were first made4 ,from these laces originated the industry of darning net by machinery and by hand1 and in all grades from fine silk-blonde and ,brussels net to the coarsest wash net1 such as is used for curtains and draperies4 ,in the earlier days the pattern was stamped on the net by means of wooden blocks1 and the net was then placed in a frame1 and the darner with her left hand under the lace followed the design with her needle and cotton1 linen or silk floss held over the work in the right hand4 ,this method may be employed at the present time2 or1 the design may be drawn on thick paper and the net basted over it2 or1 if the net is coarse the design may be followed by counting the meshes and inserting the needle and floss accordingly2 or the design may be transferred to the net itself by black or colored pencils1 or stamping4 ,the darner must decide for herself which method for holding the work she will use4 ,some of the most expert darners simply hold the net loosely in their hands and copy the design by eye alone4 ,wash-silk floss1 ,india floss which is of linen but looks like silk1 and ordinary darning flosses are all used for this work4 ,darned net is liked for many purposes1 as will be observed by the variety of designs and illustrations given on these pages4 ,no4 #a4 ,,scarf-,,end ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,this illustration pictures a very pretty scarf-end1 but presents it only half of its actual width4 ,the scarf is about a yard in length and is darned with linen floss and edged with the finest feather-edge braid4 ,the center portions of the flowers and foliage are cut out after the solid darning is made1 and the spaces are then filled in with a fancy mesh done with fine cotton in point de ,bruxelles stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4--,scarf-,end of ,darned ,net 7,half ,size74 ,no4 #b4 ,,narrow ,,cuff ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,this engraving presents a cuff of darned net in its actual width4 ,the design is also suitable for an edging and may be easily changed into an insertion4 ,feather-edge braid is used to complete the cuff4 ,a collar may be made to match if desired4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4--,narrow ,cuff of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #c4 ,,corner ,,of ,,kerchief ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,this kerchief is made similarly to the scarf-end illustrated on page #ig1 and as represented1 the corner is only one-half its actual size4 ,the kerchief itself is about twenty-two inches square and is very dainty in effect4 ,the stars which fill in the central portion are very simple to make1 and the eyelets in each are punched with a bodkin and then worked once around in point de ,bruxelles or button-hole stitch4 ,the kerchief is made of fine ,brussels net and the darning is done with ,india floss4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4--;,corner of ,kerchief of ,darned ,net 7,half ,size74 ,no4 #d4 ,,tidy ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,this engraving represents a charming little tidy made of coarse wash-net darned with wash-silk floss in ,oriental colorings4 ,the tidy has an inch wide hem and is about eleven inches wide and twelve long4 ,the hem is fastened down by three rows of darning stitches1 the outer row being deep garnet1 the middle row bright old-rose and the inner row deep orange4 ,one small fan is made of the orange and pale-blue1 another of the old-rose with sulphur-yellow1 and the third peacock-blue and crimson4 ,one large fan is made of pale-pink and silver-gray 7darned together71 and wood-brown2 another is made of the garnet and the sulphur-yellow1 while the third is made of orange and pale-blue4 ,the scrolls meeting at the center are made1 one of wood-brown1 one of sulphur-yellow and one of garnet1 and the rest of the design is made in different shades of dull green4 ,laid over white1 this tidy is very effective4 ,it may be darned in one color on white1 black or ecru net if preferred1 and with linen floss4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4--,tidy of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #e4 ,,tie-,,end ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,a tie-end in its actual width is here illustrated4 ,the tie is about three-quarters of a yard long1 and is darned in all-over style in the design seen in the engraving1 with linen floss4 ,a line of fine feather-edge braid finishes the tie in a dainty manner4 ,this design may be used for any other article preferred1 and its details will also suggest other designs of a similar character which may be invented by the worker4 ,this scarf as well as the others just described1 may be made up in black if preferred2 and in this event it will be easier for the darner to follow the meshes if she bastes her net over a white background4 ,the design may or not be traced on this background4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4--,tie-end of ,darned ,net 7,full ,width74 ,no4 #f4 ,,darned-,,net ,,edging1 ,,with ,,over-,,wrought ,,stitch4 ,this handsome edging is darned upon a wide strip of net with coarse and fine embroidery cotton1 and after the pattern is completed the lower edge of the net is cut away4 ,the coarse cotton is used to outline the design and fill in some of the central portions1 while the fine is darned in between the outer and center portions1 and is used for the over-wrought portions4 ,these portions are run back and forth loosely to form a raised foundation for the buds and rose-centers before the over-wrought work is done4 ,the edging is given full-size and no difficulty will be experienced in following the design or making the lace2 and the design may be adapted to any article of wear that can be made of darned net4 ,a scarf or kerchief1 dotted with rosebuds made like those of this design would be a very dainty article of personal adornment2 and the buds might be made of pale-pink or yellow floss with a charming effect4 ,the floral idea might be further carried out by using shaded green floss for the foliage4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4--;,darned-,net ,edging1 with ,overwrought ,stitch 7,full ,size74 ,nos4 #g and #h4 ,,darned-,,net ,,edgings4 ,it will not be necessary to give special instructions for either of the edgings here illustrated1 as both are given full size and the designs are perfectly distinct4 ,no4 #g is finished with a button-holed scallop from which the net is cut away when the work is completed4 ,either edging may be made of white1 ecru or black net as preferred1 and the floss may be white or tinted1 or of cotton1 linen or silk4 ,in making ,no4 #h upon black net1 silver or gilt thread or colored flosses will be found very effective4 ,black net thus darned is very pretty for ruching and jabots for dress-waists4 ,in making darned edgings1 net may be purchased in various edging widths1 and in this style is often called footing4 ,when bobbin net 7or bobbinet as it is now called7 was first invented1 it was made only one inch wide but now it may be purchased three and one-half yards wide if desired4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4--;,darned-,net ,edging4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4--;,darned-,net ,edging4 ,no4 #i4 ,,pillow-,,sham ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,this engraving represents one of the many uses to which darned net is put4 ,moderately coarse net was selected1 and the darning was done with linen floss in the various patterns seen1 and which are repeated in a larger form on the following pages4 ,the sham was hemmed after the darning was finished1 and a frill of darned-net edging was then added4 ,tinted silk or sateen should be laid under such a sham in order to bring out the beauty of the work4 ,the ambitious darner may make a bed-spread to correspond with her shams1 if she has the time to devote to the task and the patience to complete it2 and in making such a set1 she need not confine herself to the designs here given1 but may select any others she admires1 or may originate a design herself4 ,individual ideas as to decoration so widely differ1 that clever workers are sure to evolve designs of various characters and a generally uniform beauty4 ,blossoms1 leaves1 carvings1 ,oriental figures1 brocades1 etc41 etc41 all afford dainty ideas for designs for darned net4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #i4--,pillow-,sham of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #aj4 ,,center ,,of ,,pillow-,,sham4 ,this engraving presents an enlarged representation of the center of the pillow-sham seen on page #aji1 and also shows its suitability for the center of a tidy4 ,the inner design is very easy to follow1 as will be seen by referring to ,no4 #ab on page #aac1 where a large illustration of it is seen supplemented by a vine-border at each side4 ,the outer border of this center-piece is very simple1 and may be darned in diamonds as large or as small as desired4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aj4--;,center of ,pillow-,sham4 ,no4 #aa4 ,,section ,,of ,,pillow-,,sham4 ,in looking at the sham illustrated on page #aji1 the design illustrated at ,no4 #aa will be seen at either side of the middle-stripe design4 ,as here represented it will be easy to copy either for a pillow-sham or for any article of decoration or personal use desired4 ,the ingenious worker will find many methods of combining it with other designs or applying it as an insertion1 a border or an edging2 and she may also use her own taste as to darning with white or colored floss1 or using white1 ecru1 fancy-colored or black net4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aa4--,section of ,pillow-,sham4 ,no4 #ab4 ,,section ,,of ,,pillow-,,sham4 ,this design has been mentioned in connection with the pillow-sham seen upon page #aji1 and the engraving represents it perfectly4 ,it may be employed for the purpose mentioned or adapted to any other use required1 and may be copied exactly or varied to suit individual taste4 ,black net darned with gold thread in this design would be pretty for decorating a black silk gown or trimming a black hat4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ab4--,section of ,pillow-,sham4 ,no4 #ac4 ,,section ,,of ,,pillow-,,sham4 ,another portion of the pillow-sham mentioned is here illustrated1 but the design is quite as appropriate for any other decorative purpose4 ,yokes for night-dresses may be darned in this pattern1 or in any of the ones previously given1 with a very pretty effect2 and when tinted ribbon1 mull or lawn is laid under the darned stripes1 the effect is very dainty indeed4 ,yokes to children's dresses may also be darned in this pattern or the others1 and little caps or hoods may be made to match and lined with a tinted or white fabric4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ac4--,section of ,pillow-,sham4 ,no4 #ad4 ,,end ,,of ,,drapery-,,scarf ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,the end of the drapery-scarf from which this engraving was made is about fourteen inches square1 and the sides are turned under for about a quarter of an inch1 or a little more1 and darned down closely to represent a selvedge4 ,the design is ,oriental in outline and is easy to follow4 ,as represented the scarf is made of white net and darned with white linen floss2 but the ,oriental effect may be carried out more perfectly if the darning is done with colored flosses with an intermingling of silver or gilt thread4 ,white1 black1 ecru or colored net may be used4 ,two ends are made and then gathered to a smaller square of net4 ,this small square is then drawn together through the center under a bow of wide satin ribbon1 and the scarf is then fastened to the article of furniture it is to decorate4 ,to its ends may be added tassels1 rings or any edge-finish that is in accord with the materials of the scarf4 ,black net darned with gold1 crimson1 peacock-blue1 and pale-yellow and pale-olive1 results in a charmingly ,eastern or ,oriental effect4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ad4--;,end of ,drapery-,scarf of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #ae4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,corner ,,or ,,square ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,a very pretty design1 as simple as it is effective1 is here represented4 ,according to the purpose for which the work is intended1 and the color of the net selected1 the darning may be done in cotton1 linen or silk1 and in white1 black1 ecru or colors4 ,the pattern may be modified in any way pleasing to the taste1 or diversified by the introduction of portions of other designs or individual ideas4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ae4--;,design for a ,corner ,or ,square of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #af4 ,,border ,,for ,,darned ,,net4 ,a pretty border for tidies1 draperies1 flounces1 yokes1 collars or any article requiring a border is here illustrated4 ,any of the suggestions given above may be adopted in making this border1 which may be used separately or in combination with other borders1 according to individual taste4 ,gold thread upon black or white net would1 in this design1 result in a very effective dress decoration4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #af4--;,border for ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #ag4 ,,design ,,for ,,darned ,,net4 ,this pretty pattern may be used as a border1 insertion or stripe for personal or household articles1 and is one of the most popular designs in use4 ,it is very easy to follow and is illustrated full size4 ,it might be used to border the lower edge of a wide flounce for a petticoat1 or1 with equal propriety1 applied to a tidy or a window drapery1 providing the worker regulates the size of the design appropriately for the work in hand4 ,for window draperies it would need to be much broader and larger in other ways than as represented4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ag4--;,design for ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #ah4 ,,edging ,,of ,,darned ,,net4 ,the design here presented is of full size1 and very easy to work4 ,a dainty edge in button-hole stitch is worked for the border1 and the net is afterward cut out to form the tiny scallops4 ,this is a pretty pattern for neck and wrist frills1 jabots or ruffles1 or for the adornment of kerchiefs for the neck or pockets1 or for any purpose for which lace edging is selected4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ah4--;,edging of ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #ai4 ,,design ,,for ,,darned ,,net4 ,this engraving represents a flounce of darned-net in its actual size or width4 ,it will be seen that the design is simple1 but at the same time very effective4 ,the flounce is for a child's dress made of net darned all over in the pattern seen in the picture1 and worn over a tinted silk slip4 ,the all-over work is very pretty indeed1 and the design may be put to any of the many uses for which darned net is suitable4 ,it is pretty for yokes1 pillow-shams1 counterpanes1 infants' dresses and carriage-robes1 parasol-covers1 sofa-pillow covers1 and in fact for any article that may be made of lace4 ,the points of the flounce are darned back and forth in selvedge effect2 but they may be worked in button-hole stitch if preferred4 ,a touch of color may be given the work by using a little tinted or colored floss with the white1 though the latter is most generally selected for darning net4 ,in using tints1 more delicate shades will be found in silk darning-flosses4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ai4--;,design for ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #bj4 ,,design ,,in ,,darned ,,net4 ,this design is extremely simple1 and it may be used separately as a border or insertion1 or in combination with parts of other designs in making up a large or elaborately-worked article4 ,it is dainty enough for the decoration of an infant's garment if desired for such ornamentation1 or heavy enough for elaborating an adult's attire4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bj4--;,design in ,darned ,net4 ,no4 #ba4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,yoke ,,or ,,section ,,of ,a ,,garment ,,in ,,darned ,,net4 ,the yoke1 sleeves1 collar1 cuffs and flounce of a child's dress were beautifully darned in the design illustrated by this engraving1 and the effect was far more charming than can be conveyed by a picture4 ,the little gown was airy enough for a sprite1 and its greatest cost was in the outlay of the time devoted to its construction2 and even this could not be counted a real outlay1 as only odd moments of leisure were employed in making the pretty garment4 ,white net1 white floss and white ,india lawn were the composing materials4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ba4--;,design for a ,yoke or ,section of a ,garment in ,darned ,net4 ,nos4 #bb and #bc4 ,,designs ,,for ,,darned ,,net4 ,both of these designs are very pretty for diverse purposes1 and also very easy to follow4 ,either may be used as a heading1 an insertion or a border1 separately or in conjunction with other designs4 ,many of the suggestions given concerning other designs upon previous pages will apply to these two designs1 which fact leaves little to suggest for them individually4 ,each darner will think out for herself many uses to which to put designs1 many combinations in which they will prove effective1 and many colorings suggested by the tints which govern her room or her wardrobe2 all of which would be an impossible task for any one person1 unacquainted with the surroundings of all our students to accomplish4 ,one idea from one person will suggest another idea to a second person1 and thus1 in the lace-work at the beginning and after part of this book1 as in all fancy work1 upon an evolution of ideas must rest the great responsibility of an endless variety of designs4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bb4--;,design for ,darned ,net4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bc4--;,design for ,darned ,net4 ,mrs4 ,grace ,b4 ,mc,cormick1 ,,lace-,,maker ,,for ,,the ,,best ,,families ,,of ,,new ,,york ,,and ,,other ,,cities1 ,designer and ,manufacturer of ,modern ,hand-,made ,laces1 ,,and ,importer of ,materials for ,laces1 ,needle-,work and ,general ,household ,decorative ,work1 and also of ,fine ,linens and ,linen ,lawn4 ,illustration ,designs for ,borders1 ,pillow-,shams1 ,edgings1 ,insertions1 ,tray-,cloths1 ,center-,pieces1 ,buffet and ,bureau ,scarfs1 ,tidies1 ,pin-,cushion ,covers1 ,doilies1 ,collars and ,cuffs1 ,coiffures1 ,dress ,sets1 ,panels1 ,handkerchiefs1 ,flounces1 ,vestibule and ,window ,curtains1 ,and ,all ,household ,garnitures2 also ,exceptionally ,rich ,designs for ,church and ,altar ,laces1 etc41 etc4 ,,these ,,designs ,,will ,,be ,,furnished ,,for ,royal ,battenburg1 ,honiton1 ,english ,needle-,point1 ,princess1 ,russian and ,ideal ,honiton ,laces1 in ,,any ,,size or ,,shape ,,required4 ,,also ,,designs ,,for ,,darned ,,net4 ,particular attention paid to ,,making ,,estimates1 and ,drafting ,,special ,,designs and ,selecting the ,,proper ,,braids1 ,,threads1 ,,needles1 ,,etc41 ,,etc41 for the same4 ,,also1 ,,always ,,on ,,hand ,a ,,fine ,,assortment ,,of ,imported and ,american ,samples of ,,crocheted ,,laces2 also ,,crocheted ,,mats1 ,,doilies1 ,,tidies1 ,,scarf-,,ends1 ,etc41 ,etc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,curtains and ,fine ,laces ,skilfully ,cleaned and ,repaired4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,all ,,information ,,desired ,,concerning ,modern or ,antique ,laces1 ,materials1 ,quantities and ,prices1 cheerfully ,supplied upon ,receipt of ,inquiry1 ,full ,address and ,return ,postage4 ,address1 ,,mrs4 ,,grace ,b4 ,mc,c,o,r,m,i,c,k1 #ibc ,,broadway1 ,,new ,,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,summarized here are the corrections applied to the text4 corner or crosswise of the space crosswise was printed as crossswise cloth is basted to toile ciree ciree was printed as circe match may be made4 this was printed as may be mad what materials are appropriate appropriate was printed as appropiate as it is easy to follow4 is was missing in text ,no4 #ca4 ,the heading was missing4 d',alencon bars and spiders4 d' was missing also be developed in a larger size in was printed twice ,no4 #de4 ,no4 #dd4 ,headings #dd and #de where mixed up