,textiles & ,clo?+ ,,by ,,kate ,,he9tz ,,watson ,,graduate ,,arm\r ,,in/itute ,,( ,,te*nology ,,=m]ly ,,in/ructor ,,9 ,,dome/ic ,,art ,,lewis ,,in/itute ,,lectur] ,,univ]sity ,,( ,,*icago ,illu/ration3 ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,home ,economics seal ,,*icago ,,am]ican ,,s*ool ,,( ,,home ,,economics #aijg ,,copyright #aijf1 #aijg1 ,,by ,,home ,,economics ,,association ,,! ,,libr>y ,,( ,,home ,,economics ,a ,,complete ,,home-,,/udy ,,c\rse ,,on ,,! ,,new ,,pr(ession ,,( ,,home-,,mak+ ,,& ,,art ,,( ,,"r ,,liv+2 ,,! ,,practical ,,application ,,( ,,! ,,mo/ ,,rec5t ,,advances ,,9 ,,! ,,arts ,,& ,,sci5ces ,,to ,,home ,,& ,,heal? ,,prep>$ ,,by ,,tea*]s ,,( ,,recogniz$ ,,au?ority ,,= ,,home-,,mak]s1 ,,mo!rs1 ,,tea*]s1 ,,physicians1 ,,nurses1 ,,dietitians1 ,,pr(essional ,,h\se ,,manag]s1 ,,& ,,all ,,int]e/$ ,,9 ,,home1 ,,heal?1 ,,economy ,,& ,,*ildr5 ,,twelve ,,volumes ,,ne>ly ,,?ree ,,?\s& ,,pages1 ,,"o ,,?\s& ,,illu/rations ,,te/$ ,,by ,,use ,,9 ,,correspond5ce ,,in/ruction ,,revis$ ,,& ,,supplem5t$ ,illu/ration3 ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,home ,economics seal ,,*icago ,,am]ican ,,s*ool ,,( ,,home ,,economics #aijg ,copyright1 #aijg by ,home ,economics ,association ,ent]$ at ,/ation]s' ,hall1 ,london ,all ,rights ,res]v$4 ,,au?ors ,,isabel ,,bevi]1 ,ph4 ,m4 ,pr(essor ( ,h\sehold ,sci5ce1 ,univ]sity ( ,ill9ois4 ,au?or ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s1 ,developm5t ( ,! ,home ,economics ,movem5t 9 ,am]ica1 etc4 ,,alice ,,pel\bet ,,norton1 ,m4 ,a4 ,assi/ant ,pr(essor ( ,home ,economics1 ,s*ool ( ,eduction1 ,univ]sity ( ,*icago2 ,director ( ! ,*autauqua ,s*ool ( ,dome/ic ,sci5ce4 ,s4 ,,m>ia ,,elliott ,in/ructor 9 ,home ,economics1 ,simmons ,college2 ,=m]ly ,in/ructor ,s*ool ( ,h\sekeep+1 ,bo/on4 ,,anna ,,b>r[s ,director ,*autauqua ,s*ool ( ,cook]y2 ,lectur] ,tea*]s' ,college1 ,columbia ,univ]sity1 & ,simmons ,college2 =m]ly ,editor ,am]ican ,kit*5 ,magaz9e2 ,au?or ,home ,sci5ce ,cook ,book4 ,,alfr$ ,,clevel& ,,cotton1 ,a4 ,m41 ,m4 ,d4 ,pr(essor ,diseases ( ,*ildr51 ,ru% ,m$ical ,college1 ,univ]sity ( ,*icago2 ,visit+ ,physician ,presbyt]ian ,hospital1 ,*icago2 ,au?or ( ,diseases ( ,*ildr54 ,,b]?a ,m4 ,,t]rill1 ,a4 ,b4 ,pr(essor 9 ,home ,economics 9 ,h>t=d ,s*ool ( ,p$agogy2 ,au?or ( ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s4 ,,kate ,,he9tz ,,watson ,=m]ly ,in/ructor 9 ,dome/ic ,economy1 ,lewis ,in/itute2 ,lectur] ,univ]sity ( ,*icago4 ,,m>ion ,,fo/] ,,wa%burne ,editor ,! ,mo!rs' ,magaz9e2 ,lectur] ,*icago ,froebel ,association2 ,au?or ,ev]yday ,essays1 ,family ,secrets1 etc4 ,,m>g>et ,e4 ,,dodd ,graduate ,massa*usetts ,in/itute ( ,te*nology2 ,tea*] ( ,sci5ce1 ,wood>d ,in/itute4 ,,amy ,,elizabe? ,,pope ,) ! ,panama ,canal ,commission2 ,=m]ly ,in/ructor 9 ,practical & ,!oretical ,nurs+1 ,tra9+ ,s*ool = ,nurses1 ,presbyt]ian ,hospital1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,,maurice ,,le ,,bosquet1 ,s4 ,b4 ,director ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,home ,economics2 ,memb] ,am]ican ,public ,heal? ,association & ,am]ican ,*emical ,society4 ,,contributors ,,& ,,editors ,,ell5 ,h4 ,,ri*>ds ,au?or ,co/ ( ,food1 ,co/ ( ,liv+1 ,co/ ( ,%elt]1 ,food ,mat]ials & ,_! ,adult]ation1 etc41 etc42 ,*airman ,lake ,placid ,conf]5ce on ,home ,economics4 ,,m>y ,,h9man ,,abel ,au?or ( ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s1 ,practical ,sanit>y & ,economic ,cook+1 ,sale ,food1 etc4 ,,?omas ,d4 ,,wood1 ,m4 ,d4 ,pr(essor ( ,physical ,education1 ,columbia ,univ]sity4 ,h4 ,m4 ,,lufk91 ,m4 ,d4 ,pr(essor ( ,physical ,diagnosis & ,cl9ical ,m$ic9e1 ,univ]sity ( ,m9nesota4 ,,otto ,,fol91 ,ph4 ,d4 ,special ,inve/igator1 ,mc,lean ,hospital1 ,wav]ly1 ,mass4 ,t4 ,,mit*ell ,,prudd51 ,m4 ,d41 ,,ll4 ,d4 ,au?or ,du/ & ,its ,dang]s1 ,! ,/ory ( ! ,bact]ia1 ,dr9k+ ,wat] & ,ice ,supplies1 etc4 ,,frank ,,*\teau ,,br[n ,ar*itect1 ,bo/on1 ,mass42 ,au?or ( ,! ,five ,ord]s ( ,ar*itecture1 ,lett]s & ,lett]+4 ,,mrs4 ,,melvil ,,dewey ,secret>y ,lake ,placid ,conf]5ce on ,home ,economics4 ,,hel5 ,,l\ise ,,johnson ,pr(essor ( ,home ,economics1 ,james ,millikan ,univ]sity1 ,decatur4 ,,frank ,w4 ,,all91 ,m4 ,d4 ,in/ructor ,ru% ,m$ical ,college1 ,univ]sity ( ,*icago4 ,,manag+ ,,editor ,,maurice ,,le ,,bosquet1 ,s4 ,b4 ,director ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,home ,economics4 ,,bo>d ,,( ,,tru/ees ,,( ,,! ,,am]ican ,,s*ool ,,( ,,home ,,economics ,,mrs4 ,,ar?ur ,,c\rt5ay ,,neville ,presid5t ( ! ,bo>d4 ,,miss ,,m>ia ,,p>loa ,f\nd] ( ! fir/ ,cook+ ,s*ool 9 ,bo/on2 ,au?or ( ,home ,economics1 ,"y ,h\sekeep]1 ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s1 etc4 ,,mrs4 ,,m>y ,,h9man ,,abel ,co-work] 9 ! ,new ,engl& ,kit*51 & ! ,rum=d ,food ,laboratory2 ,au?or ( ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s1 ,practical ,sanit>y & ,economic ,cook+1 etc4 ,,miss ,,alice ,,rav5hill ,special ,commission] s5t by ! ,briti% ,gov]nm5t to report on ! ,s*ools ( ,home ,economics 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates2 ,fell[ ( ! ,royal ,sanit>y ,in/itute1 ,london4 ,,mrs4 ,,ell5 ,m4 ,,h5rot9 ,honor>y ,presid5t ,g5]al ,f$]ation ( ,woman's ,clubs4 ,,mrs4 ,,fr$]ic ,w4 ,,s*(f ,presid5t ,national ,congress ( ,mo!rs4 ,,mrs4 ,,l9da ,,hull ,,l>n$ ,pa/ ,presid5t ,national ,h\sehold ,economics ,association2 ,au?or ( ,ho/ess ( ,to-day4 ,,mrs4 ,,walt] ,mc,n,a,b ,,mill] ,*airman ( ! ,pure ,food ,committee ( ! ,g5]al ,f$]ation ( ,woman's ,clubs4 ,,mrs4 ,j4 ,a4 ,,kimb]ly ,vice ,presid5t ( ,national ,h\sehold ,economics ,association4 ,,mrs4 ,,john ,,hoodless ,gov]nm5t ,sup]9t5d5t ( ,dome/ic ,sci5ce = ! prov9ce ( ,ont>io2 ,f\nd] ,ont>io ,normal ,s*ool ( ,dome/ic ,sci5ce1 n[ ! ,mac,donald ,in/itute4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dress ,,mak+ ,,9 ,,mexico ,,cont5ts ,primitive ,me?ods #c ,weav+ #ad ,fib]s #bi ,cotton #bi ,wool #cg ,flax #dc ,silk #ec ,mod]n ,me?ods #ei ,weav+ #fi ,weaves #gb ,blea*+ & ,dye+ #gh ,pr9t+ #ha ,f9i%+ #hc ,cotton ,goods #he ,l95s #hf ,wool5s & ,wor/$s #hh ,silks #ij ,names ( ,fabrics #id ,bibliography on ,textiles #ajc ,h& ,sew+ #ajg ,ornam5tal ,/it*es #aad ,hems #abc ,tucks & ,seams #abh ,plackets #ace ,sew+ on ,b&s #ach ,fa/5+s #ada ,pat*+ #adi ,d>n+ #aee ,mit]+ ,embroid]y1 ,jo9+ ,lace #aeh ,ma*9e ,sew+ #afb ,dressmak+ #afg ,patt]ns #aga ,mak+ ,sev5-,gor$ ,skirt #agb ,mak+ ,%irt ,wai/s #ahb ,l9$ ,wai/ #ahf ,sleeves #aid ,coll>s #aih ,seamless ,yokes #bjj ,press+ #bja ,con/ruction & ,ornam5t 9 ,dress #bjc ,ornam5t ( ,textiles #bab ,color #bad ,*ildr5's ,clo!s #baf ,c>e ( ,clo?+ #bai ,clean+ #bba ,repair+ #bbe ,bibliography on ,sew+ & ,dressmak+ #bbi ,ref]5ces3 ,hi/ory ( ,co/ume2 ,ornam5t & ,design #bcd ,program = ,supplem5tal ,/udy #bcf ,index #bda ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,?read ,,( ,,life ,sp9n+ ) ! ,di/aff & ,sp9dle4 ,f a ,pa9t+4 ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,sid5ote3 ,orig9 ( ,textile ,arts ,sp9n+ & weav+ are among ! e>lie/ arts4 ,9 ! twi/+ ( fib]s1 hairs1 grasses1 & s9ews by roll+ !m betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]s1 palms ( ! h&s1 or palms & nak$ ?igh1 we h ! orig9al ( ! sp9n+ :eel & ! /eam-driv5 cotton sp9dle2 9 ! r\ghe/ plait+ we h ! fir/ h9t ( ! f9e/ wov5 clo?4 ,! ne$ ( secur+ ?+s or o!rwise /r5g!n+ !m !n l$ to b9d+1 fa/5+1 & sew+4 ,! wattle-"w hut ) its ro( ( int]lac$ b\ghs1 ! sk9s sewn by f9e ne$les ) entrails or s9ews1 ! matt$ twigs1 grasses1 & ru%es are all ! crude beg9n+s ( an art :i* tells ( ! settl$ life ( to-day4 ,sid5ote3 ,primitive ,me?ods ,no?+ is def9itely kn[n ( ! orig9 ( ^! arts2 all is conjecture4 ,!y d\btless _h _! beg9n+ long be=e m5tion is made ( !m 9 hi/ory1 b ^! crafts--sp9n+ & weav+--modifi$ & complicat$ by inv5tions &1 9 mod]n times transf]r$ l>gely f man to ma*9e1 7 di/9ctively woman's employm5t4 ,! v primitive type ( sp9n+1 :]e no sp9dle 0 us$1 0 to fa/5 ! /r&s ( goats' hair or wool to a /one :i* 0 twirl$ r\nd until ! y>n 0 suffici5tly twi/$ :5 x 0 w\nd ^u ! /one & ! process repeat$ ov] & ov]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,italian ,,woman ,,sp9n+ ,,flax ,sp9dle & ,di/aff4 ,f ,hull ,h\se ,museum4 7,9 ,?is ,s]ies ( ,pictures ! ,sp9n]s & ,weav]s ,are 9 ,native ,co/ume47 ,illu/ration3 ,,russian ,,sp9n+ ,flax ,held on ,frame1 ,leav+ ,bo? ,h&s ,free to ,manage ! ,?read & ,sp9dle4 ,f ,hull ,h\se ,museum4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ) ! ,sp9dle ,! next me?od ( twi/+ y>n 0 ) ! sp9dle1 a /raight /ick eight to twelve in*es long on :i* ! ?read 0 w\nd aft] twi/+4 ,at fir/ x _h a cleft or split 9 ! top 9 :i* ! ?read 0 fix$2 lat] a hook ( bone 0 add$ to ! upp] end4 ,! sp9dle is yet us$ by ! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indians1 ! ,italians1 & 9 ! ,ori5t4 ,! bun* ( wool or flax fib]s is held 9 ! left h&2 ) ! "r h& ! fib]s are drawn out sev]al in*es & ! end fa/5$ securely 9 ! slit or hook on ! top ( ! sp9dle4 ,a :irl+ motion is giv5 to ! sp9dle on ! ?igh or any conv5i5t "p ( ! body2 ! sp9dle is !n dropp$1 twi/+ ! y>n1 :i* is w\nd on ! upp] "p ( ! sp9dle4 ,ano!r bun* ( fib]s is drawn out1 ! sp9dle is giv5 ano!r twirl1 ! y>n is w\nd on ! sp9dle1 & s on4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9dle ,:orl ,a sp9dle conta9+ a quantity ( y>n 0 f\nd to rotate m easily1 /eadily & cont9ue long] ?an an empty "o1 h5ce ! next improvem5t 0 ! addition ( a :orl at ! bottom ( ! sp9dle4 ,^! :orls are discs ( wood1 /one1 clay1 or metal :i* keep ! sp9dle /eady & promote its rotation4 ,! process 9 effect is precisely ! same z ! sp9n+ done by our gr&mo!rs1 only ! sp9n+ :eel did ! twi/+ & r$uc$ ! "t requir$ = ! op]ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sp9n+ ,,) ,,crude ,,:eel ,,& ,,di/aff ,di/aff ,?ru/ ,into ! ,belt4 ,illu/ration3 ,,gossip ,,9 ,,! ,,old5 ,,times ,illu/ration3 ,,colonial ,,wool ,,:eel ,! ,l>ge ,:eel ,revolv$ by ,h& ,?us ,turn+ ! ,sp9dle & ,twi/+ ! ,y>n1 ,:i* ,is ,!n ,w\nd on ! ,sp9dle2 ,int]mitt5t 9 ,action4 ,illu/ration3 ,,colonial ,,flax ,,:eel ,work$ by a ,foot ,tr$dle2 ,di/aff on ! ,frame ( ! ,:eel2 ,fli]s on ! ,sp9dle1 ,cont9u\s 9 ,action2 ,capacity ,sev5 ,times ,t ( ,h& ,sp9dle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dut* ,,:eel ,sp9n] ,sits 9 ,front ( ! ,:eel ,sp9n+ ,flax at ,hull ,h\se4 ,sid5ote3 ,di/aff ,lat] ! di/aff 0 us$ = hold+ ! bun* ( wool1 flax1 or o!r fib]s4 ,x 0 a %ort /ick on "o end ( :i* 0 loosely w\nd ! raw mat]ial4 ,! o!r end ( ! di/aff 0 held 9 ! h&1 "u ! arm or ?ru/ 9 ! girdle ( ! sp9n]4 ,:5 held ?us1 "o h& 0 left free = draw+ out ! fib]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,graphic ,diagram ,%[+ ,"t ,dur+ :i* ,diff]5t ,me?ods ( ,sp9n+ ,has ,be5 ,us$4 ,sid5ote3 ,:eel ,sp9n+ ,on ! small sp9n+ :eel ! di/aff 0 plac$ 9 ! end ( ! :eel b5* 9 front ( ! fill]s2 ?is left bo? h&s free to manage ! sp9dle & to draw out ! ?reads ( ! fib]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,syrian ,,sp9n+ ,sp9n] ,sits on ! ,floor1 ,:eel ,turn$ by a ,crank2 ,sp9dle ,held 9 ,place by ,two ,mutton ,jo9ts ,:i* ,conta9 ,en\gh ,oil = ,lubrication4 ,at ,hull ,h\se4 ,! flax sp9n+ :eel1 work$ by means ( a treadle1 0 inv5t$ 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury & 0 a great improvem5t ^u ! di/aff & sp9dle4 ,?is x w be se5 0 a comp>atively mod]n inv5tion4 ,! rude :eel us$ by ! natives ( ,japan & ,india may h be5 ! prog5itor ( ! ,european :eel1 z ab\t ?is "t int]c\rse betwe5 ! ,ea/ & ,europe increas$4 ,^! :eels 7 us$ = sp9n+ flax1 wool1 & aft]w>ds cotton1 until ,h>greaves' inv5tion sup]s$$ x4 ,,weav+ ,someone has said t weav+ is ! climax ( textile indu/ry4 ,x is an art practic$ by all savage tribes & d\btless 0 kn[n be=e ! dawn ( hi/ory4 ,! art is b a developm5t ( mat-mak+ & basketry1 us+ ?reads =m$ or made by sp9n+ 9 place ( co>s] filam5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pueblo ,,woman ,,work+ ,,h$dle ,,9 ,,weav+ ,a ,,belt ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,navajo ,,belt ,,weav] ,illu/ration3 ,,zuni ,,woman ,,weav+ ,,c]emonial ,,belt ,illu/ration3 ,,primitive ,,h$dles ,sid5ote3 ,! ,h$dle ,9 ! beg9n+ ( ! art ! w>p ?reads 7 /ret*$ betwe5 conv5i5t objects on ! gr\nd or f horizontal supports4 ,at fir/ ! wo( or fill+ ?reads 7 wov5 back & =? betwe5 ! w>p ?reads z 9 d>n+4 ,an improvem5t 0 ! device call$ ! heald or h$dle1 by means ( :i* alt]nate w>p ?reads c\ld be drawn away f ! o!rs1 mak+ an op5+ ?r\gh :i* ! fill+ ?read c\ld be pass$ quickly4 ,"o =m ( ! h$dle 0 simply a /raight /ick hav+ loops ( cord or s9ew ?r\gh :i* c]ta9 ( ! w>p ?reads 7 run4 ,ano!r =m 0 a slott$ frame hav+ op5+s or eyes 9 ! slats4 ,?is 0 c>v$ f "o piece ( wood or o!r mat]ial or made f _m4 ,alt]nate w>p ?reads pass$ ?r\gh ! eyes & ! slots4 ,by rais+ or l[]+ ! h$dle frame1 an op5+ 0 =m$ ?r\gh :i* ! fill+ ?read1 w\nd on a rude %uttle1 0 ?r[n4 ,! next movem5t ( ! h$dle frame cross$ ! ?reads ov] ! fill+ & made a new op5+ = ! return ( ! %uttle4 ,at fir/ ! fill+ ?read 0 w\nd on a /ick mak+ a primitive bobb94 ,lat] ! %uttle to hold ! bobb9 0 devis$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,navajo ,,loom ,"o on ! ,e>lie/ ,types ( ,looms4 ,at ,hull ,h\se4 ,illu/ration3 ,,simple ,,colonial ,,loom ,sid5ote3 ,! ,re$ ,be=e ! re$ 0 inv5t$1 ! fill+ ?reads 7 drawn ev5ly into place by means ( a rude comb & driv5 home by sword-%ap$ piece ( wood or batt54 ,! re$ accompli%$ all ?is at "o "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,japanese ,,loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,f\r ,,h>ness ,,h& ,,loom ,weav+ ,l95 9 ! ,m\nta9s ( ,virg9ia4 7,photograph by ,c4 ,r4 ,dodge74 ,illu/ration3 ,,typical ,,colonial ,,h& ,,loom ,two ,h>nesses 9 ,use2 ,weav+ ,wool at ,hull ,h\se4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,a ,,h& ,,loom ,a--,w>p ,beam2 ,b--,clo? ,beam2 ,,dd--,lees ,rods2 ,h--,h>ness2 ,t--,tr$dle4 ,sid5ote3 ,def9ition ( a ,loom ,x is probable t ! ,european looms 7 d]iv$ f ^? ( ,india z !y seem to be made on ! same pr9ciple4 ,f crude beg9n+s1 ! h& loom ( our gr&mo!rs' "t develop$4 ,a loom has be5 def9$ z a me*anism :i* affects ! foll[+ necess>y movem5ts3 #a4 ,! lift+ ( ! healds to =m an op5+1 or %$1 or race = ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh4 #b4 ,! ?r[+ ( ! weft or fill+ by means ( a %uttle4 #c4 ,! beat+ up ( ! weft left 9 ! %$ by ! %uttle to ! clo? already =m$4 ,?is ?read may be adju/$ by means ( ! batt51 ne$le1 comb1 or any sep>ate device l ! re$4 #d #e4 ,! w9d+ up or tak+ up ( ! clo? z x is wov5 & ! lett+ (f ( ! w>p z ! clo? is tak5 up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sw$i% ,,h& ,,loom ,norwegian ,woman ,weav+ ,l95 at ,hull ,h\se4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,,! ,,work+ ,,p>ts ,,( ,a ,,loom4 ,s--,%uttle = c>ry+ ! wo(2 ,r--,re$ = beat+ up ! wo(2 ,h--,frame hold+ h$dles1 ) pullies 7,p7 mak+ ! h>ness2 ,t--,tr$dles = mov+ ! h>ness4 ,sid5ote3 ,colonial ,loom ,no ess5tial *anges h be5 made s9ce our gr&mo!rs made clo? a hundr$ ye>s ago4 ,! h>nesses move "p ( ! w>p n[ up1 n[ d[n1 & ! %uttle c>ries ! weft f side to side to be driv5 home by ! re$s to ! wov5 clo?4 ,our gr&mo!rs did all ! "w ) swift movem5ts ( h&s & feet4 ,! mod]n weav] has h] loom h>ness$ to ! electric dynamo & moves h] f+]s only to keep ! ?reads 9 ord]4 ,if %e wi%es to weave a patt]n 9 ! clo?1 no long] does %e pick up ?reads ( w>p n[ "h1 n[ !re1 accord+ to ! designs4 ,x is all work$ out = h] on ! loom4 ,ea* ?read ) almo/ human intellig5ce settles automatically into its appo9t$ place1 & ! weav] is only a ma*9e t5d]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fly ,,%uttle ,,h& ,,loom4 ,! ,pull+ ( ! ,re$ ,automatically ,?r[s ! ,%uttle ,back & ,=? & ,works ! ,h>ness1 ,mak+ a ,%$ at ! ,prop] ,"t4 ,sid5ote3 ,primitive ,fabrics ,no textiles ( primitive p 7 ev] wov5 9 pieces or bolts ( y>ds & y>ds 9 l5g? to be cut into g>m5ts4 ,! clo? 0 made ( ! size & %ape to s]ve ! p>ticul> purpose = :i* x 0 design$4 ,! mat1 robe1 or blanket _h tribal outl9es & proportions & 0 made accord+ to ! mat]ials & ! use ( common =ms t prevail$ among ! tribes4 ,! designs 7 always conv5tional & sometimes monoton\s4 ,! decoration nev] int]f]$ ) its use4 ,! fir/ beauty ( ! savage woman 0 uni=mity :i* belong$ to ! texture & %ape ( ! product4 ,! uni=mity 9 textile1 basketry1 or pott]y1 aft] acquir+ a family trait1 0 nev] lo/ sight (4 ,_! designs 7 sugge/$ by ! natural objects ) :i* !y 7 famili>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pick+ ,,cotton4 ,f ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture ,bullet91 ,! ,cotton ,plant4 ,,fib]s ,bo? ! animal & vegetable k+doms furni% ! mat]ials = clo?+ z well z = all ! textiles us$ 9 ! home4 ,! fleece ( %eep1 ! hair ( ! goat & camel1 silk1 furs1 & sk9s are ! *ief animal products4 ,! pr9cipal vegetable fib]s are cotton1 flax1 ramie1 jute1 & hemp4 ,sid5ote3 ,*ief ,fib]s ,cotton l951 wool1 & silk h h]et(ore =m$ ! f\ndation ( all textiles & are ! pr9cipal fib]s us$ = clo?+ mat]ials4 ,ramie or ,*9a grass & p9eapple fib]s are sometimes us$ z adult]ants 9 ! manufacture ( silk4 ,:5 wov5 alone1 !y give s(t silky textiles ( great /r5g? & beauty4 ,,cotton ,illu/ration3 ,,production ,,( ,,cotton ,cotton is n[ our *ief vegetable fib]1 ! ye>ly crop be+ ov] six billion p\nds1 ( :i* ! ,unit$ ,/ates raises ?ree-f\r?s4 ,texas is ! l>ge/ produc]1 foll[$ by ,georgia1 ,alabama1 & ,mississippi4 ,! rema9d] ( ! _w supply comes *iefly f ,india1 ,egypt1 ,russia1 & ,brazil4 ,! ,h9doos 7 ! fir/ anci5t p to make ext5sive use ( ! cotton fib]4 ,n until ! inv5tion ( ! cotton g9 by ,eli ,:itney 9 #agid did ! cotton beg9 to rea* its pres5t importance4 ,only f\r or five p\nds ( ! fib] c\ld be sep>at$ by h& f ! se$ by a week's labor4 ,! mod]n saw g9s turn out ov] five ?\s& p\nds daily4 ,sid5ote3 ,native ,home ,cotton is ! :ite d[ny cov]+ ( ! se$ ( sev]al special ( cotton ( cotton plant4 ,x is a native ( _m p>ts ( ! _w1 be+ f\nd by ,columbus gr[+ 9 ! ,we/ ,indies & on ! ma9 l&1 by ,cortez 9 ,mexico1 & ,piz>ro 9 ,p]u4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,fib] ,,atta*$ ,,to ,,se$ ,sid5ote3 ,sea ,isl& ,cotton ,! value ( cotton dep5ds ^u ! /r5g?1 & ev5ness ( ! fib]4 ,9 ord9>y cotton ! individual fib] is ab\t an in* 9 l5g?4 ,! sea isl& cotton gr[n *iefly on ! isl&s (f ! coa/ ( ,georgia1 ,c>ol9a1 & ,florida is ! mo/ valuable v>iety1 hav+ a f9e fib]1 "o & "o-half to two in*es 9 l5g?4 ,"s ( ! ,egyptian cotton belongs to ?is species4 ,sea isl& cotton is us$ *iefly = f9e laces1 ?read & knit goods & = ! f9e/ lawns & musl9s4 ,sid5ote3 ,upl& ,cotton ,! %ort fib] or upl& cotton is ! mo/ common & useful v>iety4 ,x is gr[n 9 ,georgia1 ,nor? & ,s\? ,c>ol9a & ,alabama4 ,texas cotton is simil> to upl&1 b sometimes is h>% ) %ort] fib]4 ,gulf cotton occupies a position betwe5 upl& & sea isl& cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,upl& ,,cotton ,,plant ,,) ,,fully ,,develop$ ,,boles ,f ,bullet9 ,no4 #ca1 ,georgia ,exp]im5t ,/ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,bole ,,fully ,,develop$ ,f ,ye> ,book ( ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 #aijc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bole ,,op5$1 ,,cotton ,,ready ,,= ,,pick+ ,ye> ,book ( #aijc4 ,! ,brazilian & ,p]uvian cotton yields a long /aple & is sometimes us$ to adult]ate silk & o!r fib]s4 ,"s v>ieties ( ?is cotton are h>% & wooly & are priz$ = use 9 mix+ ) wool4 ,sid5ote3 ,nank9 ,cotton ,! ,nank9 cotton gr[n 9 ,*9a & ,india & 9 ! s\?we/]n "p ( ,l\isiana is *>act]iz$ by its yell[ color4 ,x is us$ 9 weav+ clo? ( v>i\s k9ds 9 ! fireside indu/ries :i* h become popul> 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,engl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,fib]s ,a ,a--,unripe ,fib]s2 ,b ,b--,half-ripe ,fib]s2 ,c ,c--,ripe ,fib]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ,qualities ,v f9e y>n c be spun f cotton because ( ! spiral "* ( ! fib]s4 ,?is twi/ ( ! fib]s is peculi> to cotton1 be+ pres5t 9 no o!r animal or vegetable fib]4 ,on acc\nt ( ?is twi/1 cotton clo?s are mu* m ela/ic 9 "* ?an ^? wov5 f l951 ! fib]s ( :i* are /iff & /raight4 ,aft] ! removal ( ! se$1 no o!r fib] is s free f impurities--#e p] c5t is ! loss su/a9$ by clean+ & blea*+4 ,9 its natural condition1 cotton w n dye readily because ( a waxy sub/ance on ! surface ( ! fib]s4 ,?is mu/ be remov$ by wa%+4 ,sid5ote3 ,pick+ & ,g9n+ ,cotton %\ld be pick$ only :5 x is fully ripe :5 ! pods are fully bur/ & ! fib]s exp&$4 ,! unripe fib] is glassy1 does n atta9 its full /r5g? & resi/s ! dye4 ,aft] pick+1 ! cotton is s5t to ! g9n+ factory to h ! se$ remov$4 ,x is !n press$ into bales by hydraulic presses1 five hundr$ p\nds be+ ! /&>d bale 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,bales ,sid5ote3 ,physical ,*>act]i/ics ,purifi$ blea*$ cotton is ne>ly pure cellulose4 ,x resi/s ! action ( alkalis well1 b is h>m$ by hot1 /rong acids1 or if acid is all[$ to dry on ! fabric4 ,x is n h>m$ by high temp]ature1 & s may be iron$ ) a hot iron4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wool ,,fib] ,,& ,,sub/itutes #a4 ,s\? ,am]ican ,wool2 #b4 ,noil f ! ,same2 #c4 ,tangl$ ,wa/e2 #d4 ,wa/e ,comb$ ,out2 #e4 ,lap ,wa/e2 #f4 ,%oddy4 ,,wool ,sid5ote3 ,"* ( ,fib] ,wool is ! mo/ important animal fib]4 ,/rictly speak+ ! "n applies only to ! hairy cov]+ ( %eep1 b ! hair ( c]ta9 goats & ( camels is g5]ally classifi$ "u ! same t]ms4 ,! wool fib] is di/+ui%$ by its scale-l surface :i* gives x its felt+ & sp9n+ prop]ties4 ,hair z di/+ui%$ f wool has little or no scaly /ructure be+ 9 g5]al a smoo? filam5t ) no felt+ prop]ties & sp9n+ only ) great difficulty4 ,fur is ! und]gr[? f\nd on mo/ fur-be>+ animals & has 9 a modifi$ way ! scaly /ructure & felt+ prop]ties ( wool4 ,illu/ration3 ,,microscopic ,,appe>ance ,,( ,,wool ,,fib]s ,sid5ote3 ,value = ,clo?+ ,! great value ( wool z a fib] lies 9 ! fact t x is /rong1 ela/ic1 s(t1 v susceptible to dye /uffs & be+ wov51 furni%es a great numb] ( air spaces1 r5d]+ clo?+ made f x v w>m & light4 ,sid5ote3 ,quality ( ,wool ,climate1 bre$1 & food influ5ce ! quality ( ! wool4 ,:]e ! pa/urage is b>r5 & rocky1 ! wool is apt to be co>se4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m]9o ,,rams ,! ,v>iety ( ,%eep ,giv+ ! ,f9e/ ,wool4 ,sid5ote3 ,v>ieties ( ,%eep ,!re are suppos$ to be ab\t ?irty di/9ct v>ieties ( %eep1 ne>ly half ( :i* are natives ( ,asia1 "o-?ird ( ,africa1 & only f\r com+ f ,europe1 & two f ,am]ica4 ,wool is divid$ into two g5]al classes--long & %ort /aple1 accord+ to ! av]age l5g? ( fib]4 ,! long fib] wool is commonly c>d$1 comb$ & spun into wor/$ y>n4 ,! %ort fib] is usually c>d$ & spun into wool5 y>n4 ,! %ort fib] obta9$ 9 comb+ long /aple wool is call$ noil4 ,x is us$ = wool5s4 ,sid5ote3 ,goat ,wools ,alpaca1 ,vicuna & ,llama wools are obta9$ f animals :i* are native to ! m\nta9s ( ,p]u & ,*ile4 ,! ,angora goat1 orig9ally f ,asia ,m9or1 furni%es ! mohair ( comm]ce4 ,?is fib] does n resemble ! hairs ( common goats 9 any respect4 ,x is a v beautiful fib] ( silky lu/]1 :i* con/itutes its *ief value4 ,illu/ration3 ,,angora ,,goats ,sid5ote3 ,fur ,! fur ( beav]s & rabbits c be & is us$ 9 manufacture1 ei!r spun into y>n or made into felt4 ,! fib]s ( bo? animals ent] l>gely into ! manufacture ( felt hats4 ,sid5ote3 ,sort+ ,wool ,! fleece ( %eep aft] be+ %e>$ is divid$ into diff]5t p>ts or sort$1 accord+ to ! quality ( ! wool1 ! be/ wool com+ f ! sides ( ! animal4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wool ,,fib]s a--,m$ium ,wool2 b--,camel's ,hair2 c--,diseas$ ,fib]2 d--,m]9o ,wool2 e--,mohair4 ,sid5ote3 ,sc\r+ ,wool ,z x comes f ! %eep1 ! wool conta9s _m sub/ances besides ! wool fib] :i* mu/ be remov$ be=e dye+ or sp9n+4 ,?is cleans+ is call$ sc\r+4 ,be=e sc\r+1 ! wool is usually du/$ by ma*9es to remove all loose dirt4 ,! sc\r+ mu/ be done by ! milde/ means possible 9 ord] to pres]ve ! natural fluff9ess & brilliancy ( ! fib]4 ,! *ief impurity is ! wool grease or yolk :i* is secret$ by ! sk9 gl&s to lubricate ! fib] & prev5t x f matt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"o ,,me?od ,,( ,,wool ,,sort+ #a--,! ,be/ ,grade2 #b--,l[e/ ,grade2 #c--;,fair2 #d--,m$ium ,grade4 ,sid5ote3 ,sc\r+ ,ag5ts ,9 ! sc\r+ ( wool1 soap is ! pr9cipal ag5t4 ,s(t soap made f cau/ic pota% is g5]ally us$ z x is less h>mful ?an ord9>y h>d soda soap4 ,potassium c>bonate--pe>l a%--is (t5 us$ 9 connection ) ! soap4 ,if ! wat] = sc\r+ is h>d1 x is s(t5$ ) pe>l a%4 ,! temp]ature ( wa% wat] is nev] all[$ to g above #abj ,f4 ,! sc\r$ wool weighs f a little ov] a half to "o-?ird or less ( ! weight ( ! fleece4 ,sid5ote3 ,hydroscopic ,moi/ure ,wool has ! rem>kable prop]ty ( absorb+ up to #cj p] c5t or m ( its weight ( wat] & yet n feel p]ceptibly damp to ! t\*4 ,?is is call$ hydroscopic moi/ure4 ,to ?is prop]ty wool owes its sup]iority z a textile = und]clo?+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wool ,,sort+ ,! ?or\ghly cleans$ fib] is made up *iefly ( ! *emical sub/ance k]at91 be+ simil> 9 composition to horn & fea!rs4 ,9 burn+ x gives (f a *>act]i/ic disagreeable odor4 ,x is a sub/ance v weakly acid 9 its nature1 = :i* reason x comb9es readily ) _m dyes4 ,wool resi/s ! action ( acids v well1 b is mu* h>m$ by ! alkalis1 be+ dissolv$ completely by a w>m solution ( cau/ic soda4 ,high temp]ature h>ms wool4 ,,flax ,next to wool & cotton1 flax is us$ mo/ l>gely 9 our textile manufactures4 ,! l95 fib] consi/s ( ! ba/ cells ( c]ta9 species ( flax gr[n 9 ,europe1 ,africa1 & ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,all ba/ fib]s are obta9$ ne> ! out] surface ( ! plant /ems4 ,! pi? & woody tissues are ( no value4 ,! flax plant is an annual & to obta9 ! be/ fib]s x mu/ be ga!r$ be=e x is fully ripe4 ,to obta9 se$ f :i* ! be/ quality ( l9se$ oil c be made x is usually necess>y to sacrifice ! quality ( ! fib]s to "s ext5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,flax ,sid5ote3 ,treatm5t ( ,flax ,unlike cotton1 flax is contam9at$ by impurities f :i* x mu/ be fre$ be=e x c be wov5 into clo?4 ,! fir/ process to :i* ! fre%ly pull$ flax is submitt$ is t ( rippl+ or ! removal ( ! se$ capsules4 ,rett+1 next 9 ord]1 is ! mo/ important op]ation4 ,?is is done to remove ! sub/ances :i* b9d ! ba/ fib]s to ea* o!r & to remove ! fib] f ! c5tral woody portion ( ! /em4 ,?is consi/s ( /eep+ ! /alks 9 wat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,field ,,( ,,flax ,,9 ,,m9nesota ,! ,flax ,mu/ ,be ,pull$ ,up by ! ,roots to ,give ,fibres ) ,tap]$ ,ends4 7,photograph ( ,c4 ,r4 ,dodge74 ,sid5ote3 ,rett+ 7#a7 ,cold wat] rett+1 ei!r runn+ or /agnant wat]4 7#b7 ,dew rett+4 7#c7 ,w>m wat] rett+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rett+ ,,tank ,a--,inlet2 ,b--,undi/urb$ ,wat]2 ,c--,bundles ( ,flax4 ,cold wat] rett+ 9 runn+ wat] is practic$ 9 ,belgium4 ,rett+ 9 /agnant wat] is ! me?od usually employ$ 9 ,irel& & ,russia4 ,! rett+ 9 /agnant wat] is m rapidly done1 b !re is dang] ( ov]-rett+ on acc\nt ( ! organic matt] reta9$ 9 ! wat] :i* favors f]m5tation4 ,9 ?is case ! fib] is weak5$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rett+ ,,flax ,,9 ,,! ,,riv] ,,lys1 ,,belgium ,f ! ,gov]nm5t ,bullet91 ,flax = ,se$ & ,fib]4 ,9 dew rett+1 ! flax is spread on ! field & expos$ to ! action ( ! wea!r = sev]al weeks )\t any previ\s /eep+4 ,?is me?od ( rett+ is practic$ 9 ,g]many & ,russia4 ,w>m wat] rett+ & *emical rett+ h met ) limit$ success4 ,:5 ! rett+ is complete1 ! flax is set up 9 %eaves to dry4 ,! next op]ations consi/ ( break+1 scut*+1 & hackl+ & are n[ done by ma*9]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fib]s ,,( ,,flax ,break+ removes ! woody c5t] f ! rett$ & dri$ flax by be+ pass$ ?r\gh a s]ies ( flut$ roll]s4 ,! p>ticles ( woody matt] adh]+ to ! fib]s are deta*$ by scut*+4 ,sid5ote3 ,hackl+ ,hackl+ or comb+ /ill fur!r sep>ates ! fib]s into _! f9e/ filam5ts--l9e & t[4 ,! flax l9e is ! long & valuable fib]2 ! t[1 ! %ort co>se tangl$ fib] :i* is spun & us$ = weav+ co>se l954 ,illu/ration3 ,,flax ,a1 ,un?ra%$ ,/raw2 ,b1 ,rett$2 ,c1 ,clean$ or ,scut*$2 ,d1 ,hackl$ or ,dress$4 7,photograph ( ,c4 ,r4 ,dodge74 ,illu/ration3 ,,hackl+ ,,flax ,,by ,,h& ,! ,t[ ,is ,se5 at ! ,left & a ,bun* ( ,flax l9e on ! ,b5*4 7,photograph ( ,c4 ,r4 ,dodge1 ,special ,ag5t ,u4 ,s4 ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture47 ,sid5ote3 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,l95 ,:5 fre$ f all impurities ! *ief physical *>act]i/ics ( flax are its sn[y :it5ess1 silky lu/] & great t5acity4 ,! individual fib]s may be f t5 to twelve in*es 9 l5g?2 !y are mu* great] 9 diamet] ?an cotton4 ,x is less pliant & ela/ic ?an cotton & blea*es & dyes less readily4 ,l95 clo? is a bett] conductor ( heat ?an cotton & clo?+ made f x is cool]4 ,:5 pure1 x is1 l cotton1 ne>ly pure cellulose4 ,sid5ote3 ,ramie ,besides ! l951 !re is a great numb] ( ba/ fib]s fit = textile purposes1 "s sup]ior1 "s inf]ior4 ,india alone has ov] ?ree hundr$ plants t are fib] yield+4 ,"o-?ird ( ^! furni% useful fib]s = cordage & fabrics4 ,! next 9 importance to l95 is ramie or rhea1 & ,*9a grass4 ,*9a grass comes f a diff]5t plant b is ab\t ! same z ramie4 ,! /aple is long] & f9] ?an l954 ,! great /r5g? ( y>n made f x is due to l5g? ( ! /aple4 ,! v>iety & great value ( ! ramie fib]s has long be5 recogniz$1 b difficulties att5d+ ! sep>ation & degumm+ ( ! fib]s h prev5t$ its employm5t 9 ! manufactures to any great ext5t4 ,! native ,*9ese split & scrape ! plant /ems1 /eep+ !m 9 wat]4 ,! common rett+ process us$ = flax is n effective on acc\nt ( ! l>ge am\nt ( gummy matt]1 & al?\gh easy to blea* x is difficult to dye 9 full bright %ades )\t injur+ ! lu/] ( ! fib]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,jute & ,hemp ,jute & hemp belong to ! l[] ord] ( ba/ fib]s4 ,! fib] is l>ge & is unfit = any b ! co>se/ k9d ( fabrics4 ,jute is ma9ly cultivat$ 9 ,b5gal4 ,! fib] is sep>at$ f ! plant by rett+1 beat+1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,jute ,,gr[+ ,,9 ,,l\isiana4 ,f ,culture ( ,hemp & ,jute1 ,report ( ,u4 ,s4 ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dry+ ,,hemp ,,9 ,,k5tucky ,f ,culture ( ,hemp & ,jute4 ,sid5ote3 ,olona ,olona1 ! textile fib] ( ,hawaii1 is f\nd to h promis+ qualities4 ,?is plant resembles ramie & belongs to ! nettle family also1 b x is )\t ! tr\blesome res9 ( ! ramie4 ,! fib] is f9e1 light1 /rong1 & durable4 ,! ,philipp9es are ri* 9 fib] produc+ plants4 ,! manila hemp is ! mo/ prom95t1 ( :i* co>se clo? is wov51 besides ! valuable cordage4 ,! sisal hemp1 p9eapple1 yucca1 & a numb] ( fib] plants gr[+ 9 ! s\!rn "p ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates are wor?y ( note4 ,^! fib] indu/ries are conduct$ 9 a rude way1 ! fib] be+ clean$ by h&1 except ! p9eapple4 ,,silk ,! silk fib] is ! mo/ p]fect z well z ! mo/ beautiful ( all fib]s4 ,x is ne>ly faultless1 f9e & cont9u\s1 (t5 measur+ f #ajjj to #djjj feet long1 )\t a scale1 jo9t1 or a blemi%1 ?\gh n ( ! same diamet] or f95ess ?r\gh\t its entire l5g?1 z x becomes f9] z ! int]ior ( ! cocoon is approa*$4 ,silk diff]s f all o!r vegetable or animal fib]s by be+ devoid ( all cellul> /ructure4 ,sid5ote3 ,:]e ,produc$ ,s\!rn ,europe leads 9 ! silk worm culture--,italy1 s\!rn ,france1 & ,turkey1 ) ,*9a & ,india4 ,sev]al species ( mo?s1 natives ( ,india1 ,*9a1 & ,japan1 produce ! wild silk4 ,! mo/ important ( ! wild silks are ! ,tussah4 ,silk plu% & ! co>s] v>ieties ( buff color$ fabrics are made ( ?is silk4 ,:ile manufactur]s d n favor ! wild silk1 ! co>se unev5 weave & s(tness make x a favorite ) arti/s & x is be+ us$ = int]ior decoration z well z = clo?+4 ,sid5ote3 ,silk ,worm ,! silk ( comm]ce beg9s ) an egg no bigg] ?an a mu/>d se$1 out ( :i* comes a dim9utive cat]pill>1 :i* is kept 9 a frame & f$ ^u mulb]ry leaves4 ,:5 ! cat]pill>s are full gr[n1 !y climb ^u twigs plac$ = !m & beg9 to sp9 or make ! cocoon4 ,! silk comes f two little orifices 9 ! head 9 ! =m ( a glut9\s gum :i* h>d5s into a f9e ela/ic fib]4 ,) a motion ( ! head some:at l ! figure eight1 ! silk worm ?r[s ?is ?read ar\nd ! body f head to tail until at la/ x is entirely envelop$4 ,! body gr[s small] & ! ?read gr[s f9] until at la/ x has spun out mo/ ( ! sub/ance ( ! body & ! task is done4 ,if left to itself1 :5 ! "t came1 ! mo? w\ld eat its way out ( ! cocoon & ru9 ! fib]4 ,a few ( ! be/ cocoons are sav$ = a new supply ( cat]pill>s2 ! rema9d] are bak$ at a l[ heat :i* de/roys ! worm b pres]ves ! silk4 ,?is n[ becomes ! cocoon ( comm]ce4 ,sid5ote3 ,reel+ ,silk ,next ! cocoons g to ! reel]s :o w9d ! filam5ts into ! silk y>n t makes ! raw mat]ial ( our mills4 ,! cocoons are ?r[n into w>m wat] mix$ ) soap 9 ord] to dissolve ! gum4 ,! out] or co>s] cov]+ is bru%$ (f d[n to ! real silk & ! end ( ! ?read f\nd4 ,f\r or five cocoons are w\nd toge!r1 ! /icky fib]s cl++ to ea* o!r z !y pass ?r\gh ! v>i\s guides & are w\nd z a s+le ?read on ! reels4 ,! silk is dri$ & ti$ into hanks or ske9s4 ,z ! ?read unw9ds f ! cocoon1 x becomes small]1 s o!r ?reads mu/ be add$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,silk3--,,cat]pill>1 ,,cocoon1 ,,*rysalis1 ,,mo? ,sid5ote3 ,organize & ,tram ,at ! mill ! raw silk goes to ! ?r[/] :o twi/s ! silk ?reads ready = ! loom4 ,^! ?reads are ( two k9ds--organize or w>p & tram or fill+4 ,! w>p runs ! long way ( wov5 fabric or p>allel ) ! selvage & x mu/ be /rong1 ela/ic1 & n easily p>t$ by rubb+4 ,to prep>e ! w>p1 two ?reads ( raw silk are slightly twi/$4 ,twi/ is always put into y>n ( any k9d to increase its /r5g?4 ,^! ?reads are unit$ & twi/$ toge!r & ?is makes a /rong ?read capable ( )/&+ any reasonable /ra9 9 ! loom & x w n r\gh54 ,= ! wo( or tram :i* is c>ri$ across ! wov5 clo? on ! %uttle1 ! ?read %\ld be z loose & fluffy z possible4 ,sev]al ?reads are put toge!r1 subject$ to only a v slight twi/--j en\gh to hold ! ?reads toge!r s !y w lie ev5ly 9 ! f9i%$ fabric4 ,sid5ote3 ,boil+ ,(f ,aft] ! y>n leaves ! sp9n]s x is aga9 run (f on reels to be tak5 to ! dye h\se4 ,fir/ ! y>n is boil$ (f 9 soapy wat] to remove ! rema9+ gum4 ,n[ ! silk takes on its lu/]4 ,be=e x 0 dull l cotton4 ,! silk is n[ f9] & h>d] & is kn[n z s\ple4 ,sid5ote3 ,load+ ,silk ,! silk fib] has a rem>kable prop]ty ( absorb+ c]ta9 metallic salts1 /ill reta9+ mu* ( its lu/]4 ,?is process is kn[n z load+ or weight+1 & gives increas$ body & weight to ! silk4 ,silk )\t weight+ is kn[n z pure dye1 ( :i* !re is little made1 z su* goods take too mu* silk4 ,illu/ration3 ,,reel+ ,,silk ,= ! weight+ ( :ite or light color$ silk goods1 t9 cry/als 7/an\s *loride7 are us$ & = d>k %ades & black1 iron salts & tann94 ,by ?is means ! orig9al weight ( ! fib] may be increas$ ?ree or f\r hundr$ p] c5t4 ,?is result is n atta9$1 h[ev]1 except ?r\gh ! weak5+ ( ! fib]4 ,sid5ote3 ,action ( ,common ,salt ,common salt has a v curi\s action on weight$ silk4 ,x sl[ly weak5s ! fib]4 ,a silk dress may be ru9$ by be+ spla%$ ) salt wat] at ! sea%ore4 ,mo/ (t5 holes appe> aft] a dress comes back f ! clean]s2 ^! he may n be to blame =1 z salt is abundant 9 ne>ly all ! bodily secretions1--te>s1 p]spiration1 ur9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,artificial ,silk ,artificial silk is made by dissolv+ cellulose obta9$ f cotton4 ,x is lack+ 9 /r5g? & wat] spoils all k9ds manufactur$ at pres5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,*>act]i/ics ( ,silk ,silk1 l wool1 has ! prop]ty ( absorb+ consid]able moi/ure )\t becom+ p]ceptibly damp4 ,l wool & all ! animal fib]s1 x is h>m$ by alkalis4 ,! important physical prop]ties ( silk are its beautiful lu/]1 /r5g?1 ela/icity & ! read9ess ) :i* x takes dyes4 ,silk comb9es well ) o!r fib]s1 animal & vegetable4 ,sid5ote3 ,value ( ,raw ,fib]s ,a comp>ison ( ! relative value ( textile fib]s may be se5 f ! foll[+ approximate prices3 ,cotton--4#jg to 4#ad p] p\nd2 loss 9 clean+ & blea*+ #e p] c5t4 ,flax--4#ab to 4#cj p] p\nd2 loss 9 clean+ & blea*+ ab\t #bj p] c5t4 ,wool--4#ae to 4#cj p] p\nd2 loss 9 sc\r+ #bj to #fj p] c5t4 ,raw ,silk--#g4jj to #aj4jj p] p\nd2 loss 9 boil+ (f ab\t #cj p] c5t :i* is made up & mu* m by load+4 ,,mod]n ,,me?ods ,all ! complex processes & ma*9]y ( ! textile indu/ry are b developm5ts ( ! old-"t me?ods ( ! home4 ,brief outl9es only w be giv5 "h = ! processes are mo/ intricate 9 detail4 ,,sp9n+ ,! sp9n+ ( cotton y>n 7?read7 is typical ( all ! fib]s4 ,! /ages may be divid$ into-- #a4 ,op5+ & pick+4 #b4 ,c>d+4 #c4 ,comb+4 #d4 ,draw+4 #e4 ,sp9n+4 ,sid5ote3 ,pick+ & ,c>d+ ,! pick+ & c>d+ h = _! object ! removal ( all =eign sub/ances ) z little damage to ! fib] z possible4 ,! =eign sub/ances 9 cotton are s&1 dirt1 pieces ( leaves1 se$1 husk1 etc41 :i* h become mix$ ) ! fib] dur+ ! process ( gr[+1 g9n+ & transportation4 ,sid5ote3 ,clean+ ,! cotton bales are op5$ & ?r[n into ! automatic fe$] :i* c>ries up a lay] ( cotton on a spik$ apron f :i* x is remov$ by a rapidly revolv+ d(f] und]nea? :i* is a scre5 :i* cat*es "s ( ! dirt4 ,x is next f$ betwe5 rolls 9 front ( a rapidly revolv+ blunt-edg$ knife :i* ?r[s out m ( ! dirt ?r\gh a scre54 ,!re is a suction ( air ?r\gh ! scre5 :i* helps remove ! =eign sub/ances4 ,! cotton passes ?r\gh sev]al ( su* ma*9es1 be+ =m$ into a s(t web or lap :i* is w\nd into a roll4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>d+ ,! c>d+ ma*9e fur!r cleans ! fib]s & lays !m 9 a g5]al p>allel position4 ,f ?is ma*9e ! web is =m$ into sliv]1 a loose rope ( cotton fib] ab\t two in*es 9 diamet]4 ,?is is receiv$ 9 circul> cans4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,op5] ,,& ,,pick] ,! cotton f ! bale is ?r[n into ,a1 c>ri$ by ! spik$ aprons ,b & ,c1 ev5$ by ,e1 remov$ f ! apron by ,f 7"s ( ! dirt falls ?r\gh ! scre5 into box ,g7 is beat5 by ! revolv+ knife1 ,n ,p1 m dirt be+ remov$ ?r\gh scre5 ,n1 !n goes ?r\gh ! flue ,c to ! next ma*9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,comb+ ,! comb+ is omitt$ = %ort fib] cotton1 b is us$ 9 wor/$ sp9n+ & ) long /aple cotton to remove ! %ort fib]s4 ,cotton to be us$ = mak+ y>n suitable = hosi]y1 und]we>1 sew+ ?read1 lace1 & = v f9e cotton fabrics is c>d$4 ,9 draw+1 f six to sixte5 sliv]s are run toge!r & ! fib]s drawn out 9 sev]al /ages until ! s(t rope is ab\t an eigh? ( an in* 9 diamet]1 call$ rov+4 ,?is t5ds to get rid ( any unev5ness & makes ! fib]s all p>allel4 ,f ?is ma*9e ! rov+ is w\nd on a bobb9 ready = ! sp9n+ frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,c>d ,! roll ( webb+ ,a is beat5 & transf]r$ to ! cyl9d] ,h ,h1 c>d$ by ! spik$ belt ,e1 remov$ by ! d(f] & =m$ into a sliv] :i* runs into ! c ,m4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ,! sp9n+ frame may h a hundr$ sp9dles or m1 ea* "o ( :i* is draw+ out its supply ( rov+ to ! requir$ size ( y>n & giv+ x ! twi/ necess>y to b9d ! fib]s toge!r4 ,! y>n to be us$ = ! w>p is giv5 a h>d] twi/ s t x may be /rong en\gh to /& ! /ra9 9 weav+4 ,! y>n = fill+ is usually left s(t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cotton ,,comb1 ,,us$ ,,= ,,long ,,/aple ,illu/ration3 ,,receiv+ ,,! ,,sliv] ,,at ,,! ,,back ,,( ,,! ,,draw+ ,,frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,,draw+ ,,frame ,draw+ ! ,rov+ ,f9]4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,fly ,,sp9n+ ,,frame ,! ,spools ( ,rov+ ,above ,are ,be+ ,drawn ,out1 ,giv5 ! ,twi/ by ! ,fli]s1 & ,w\nd on ,bobb9s ,bel[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mule ,,draw+ ,,& ,,sp9n+ ,,frame ,always us$ = wool4 ,"p ( ! ma*9e moves away f ! frame1 ?us draw+ out ! ?read1 :i* is !n twi/$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mod]n ,,r+ ,,sp9n+ ,,frame ,,= ,,cotton4 ,,sixty-,,eight ,,sp9dles ,gives ! ,l>ge/ ,production4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,pla9 ,,p[] ,,loom ,,weav+ ,,l95 ,! y>n = w>p is n[ usually giv5 a coat+ or siz+ ( />* & gums s t ! ?read may n become unw\nd & break dur+ weav+4 ,! process ( sp9n+ is mu* ! same = flax & = wool1 al?\gh some:at diff]5tly con/ruct$ ma*9es mu/ be us$4 ,flax is usually spun wet4 ,,weav+ ,sid5ote3 ,mod]n ,loom ,! mod]n p[] driv5 loom is a wond]ful piece ( ma*9]y4 ,! pr9ciple ( its op]ation is ess5tially ! same z ! h& loom1 b x is almo/ p]fectly automatic 9 its action1 a man or woman be+ able to t5d f t5 to fifte5 looms weav+ pla9 cotton goods4 ,sid5ote3 ,w>p+ ,! y>n com+ f ! sp9n+ frame is sometimes dy$ be=e weav+4 ,! w>p is =m$ by w9d+ z _m ?reads z ! wid? ( ! fabric is to conta9 on a sl[ly revolv+ drum1 call$ a beam1 9 ! same relative position 9 :i* !y are to appe> 9 ! f9i%$ clo?4 ,f its position on ! beam at ! back ( ! loom1 ea* ?read is br\ght ?r\gh its p>ticul> loop or eye ) ! h$dle1 !n passes ?r\gh its own slot 9 ! re$1 & d[n to ! roll] or clo? beam t is to take up ! wov5 clo?4 ,?is is call$ draw+ 9 ! w>p4 ,if !re is a piece ( clo? com+ f ! loom1 ! "w is v simple1 = ! ends ( ! new w>p are ti$ to ! ends rema9+ f ! w>p t has be5 wov5 out4 ,! %uttle ) its bobb91 conta9+ ! y>n ( ! fill+1 is mu* ! same z is us$ 9 ! h& looms1 except = =m & size1 :i* v>ies accord+ to ! requirem5ts & size ( ! w>p be+ us$4 ,at fir/ only "o %uttle 0 us$1 b 9 #agfj ,rob]t ,kay inv5t$ a me*anism by :i* sev]al %uttles conta9+ diff]5t grades or colors ( y>n might be us$4 ,ea* ?r[ ( ! %uttle across ! wid? ( ! goods is call$ a pick4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,h>ness ,9 mak+ a clo? ) pla9 weave1 t is1 ) e ?read int]lac+ ) e o!r1 z 9 d>n+1 only two h>nesses are requir$1 b ! mod]n loom may h up to ab\t tw5ty-f\r h>nesses s t an inf9ite v>iety ( weaves may be obta9$4 ,v>i\s cams & lev]s move ! h>ness frame & s raise or l[] ! ?reads requir$ = ! design4 ,sid5ote3 ,jacqu>d ,loom ,! ,jacqu>d loom is arrang$ on a diff]5t pr9ciple4 ,9 ?is loom1 all k9ds ( fancy weaves may be obta9$ z 9 table l951 tape/ries & c>pets4 ,ea* w>p ?read is suppli$ ) a sep>ate hook & by means ( p]=at$ c>d ! desir$ ?reads are rais$ or depress$ at ea* ?r[ ( ! %uttle4 ,! c>ds are work$ out by ! design]4 ,a set ( a ?\s& or m c>ds may be requir$ to produce ! desir$ design4 ,jacqu>d looms are sometimes to be se5 at fairs & expositions weav+ h&k]*iefs ) "s picture design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,jacqu>d ,,h& ,,loom ,weav+ ,+ra9 ,c>pet at ,hull ,h\se4 ,,weaves ,! great v>iety ( weaves f\nd 9 ! textiles ( to-day are modifications ( a few fundam5tal weaves inv5t$ 9 ! e>lie/ times4 ,! *ief fundam5tal weaves are3 7#a7 ,pla9 weave4 7#b7 ,twills4 7#c7 ,sate54 ,to :i* may be add$ ! d]ivatives-- 7#d7 ,rib weave4 7#e7 ,basket weave4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,,fancy ,,knit ,,goods ,^! d n include ! _m fancy weaves1 too num]\s to classify1 & ! op5 "w weaves1 made 9 ! ,l5o loom1 9 :i* "s ( ! ?reads are cross$4 ,knit goods are made by ! int]loop+ ( a s+le ?read1 by h& or on circul> knitt+ ma*9es & lace by an analog\s process1 us+ sev]al sy/ems ( ?reads4 ,felt is made up ( matt$ fib]s ( fur & wool & has no ?read /ructure4 ,illu/ration3 ,,weave ,,diagrams ,sid5ote3 ,pla9 ,weave ,! pla9 weave is ! mo/ common1 ne>ly all light weight goods be+ ?us wov54 ,9 pla9 weav+1 ea* ?read ( bo? w>p & fill+ passes alt]nately ov] & "u ! ?reads at "r angles4 ,?is makes a comp>atively op5 clo?1 requir+ ! smalle/ am\nt ( y>n = ! surface cov]$4 ,?is weave is us$ 9 ne>ly all cotton goods1 z 9 musl9s1 %eet+s1 calicoes1 g+hams1 & ?9 wool5 goods4 ,ev5 9 ! pla9 weave v>iety is obta9$ by hav+ "s ( ! ?reads l>g] ?an o!rs1 ei!r 9 w>p or fill+ or bo?1 ?us produc+ /ripes & *eck$ effects4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sections ,,( ,,weaves a--,pla9 weave2 b--,prunella twill2 c--,cassim]e twill2 d--,swansd[n twill4 ,sid5ote3 ,twills ,aft] ! pla9 weave ! twill is ! mo/ common1 be+ mu* us$ = dress goods1 suit+s1 etc41 z well z "s ( ! ?ick] cottons4 ,9 ?is weave ! int]sections ( ! ?reads produce *>act]i/ic l9es diagonally across ! fabric1 mo/ (t5 at an angle ( #de4 ,! twill may be h>dly visible or v pron\nc$4 ,! simple/ twills are ! s-call$ doesk9 & prunella4 ,9 ! doesk9 ! fill+ ?reads pass ov] "o & "u two ( ! w>p ?reads & 9 ! prunella twill ov] two & "u "o4 ,! mo/ common twill is ! cassim]e twill 9 :i* bo? ! w>p & fill+ run ov] two & "u two ( ! ?reads at "r angles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,,rib ,,& ,,basket ,,weave ,,& ,,d\ble ,,clo? ,sid5ote3 ,unev5 ,twills ,a twill made by runn+ bo? w>p & fill+ "u "o & ov] ?ree ?reads is call$ a swansd[n twill & ! rev]se is kn[n z ! cr[ weave4 ,9 ^! ! diagonal twill$ effect is mu* m m>k$4 ,v>i\s twills are (t5 comb9$ ) ea* o!r & ) pla9 weave1 mak+ a great v>iety ( texture4 ,num]\s unev5 twills are made1 two ov] & ?ree "u1 etc41 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,sate5 ,weave ,9 ! sate5 weave1 ne>ly all ( ei!r ! w>p or ! fill+ ?reads are on ! surface1 ! object be+ to produce a smoo? surface fabric l sate54 ,) ?is weave x is possible to use a cotton w>p & silk fill+1 hav+ mo/ ( ! silk appe> on ! surface ( ! fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,,textile ,,design ,a--,on cross-section pap]2 ,b--,graphic diagram4 ,sid5ote3 ,rib & ,basket ,weaves ,! rib & basket weaves are d]ivatives ( ! pla9 weave1 two or m ?reads replac+ ! s+le /r&4 ,9 ! rib weave1 ei!r ! w>p or ! fill+ ?reads run d\ble or m1 ?us mak+ a cord$ effect4 ,9 ! basket weave1 bo? w>p & fill+ are run d\ble or treble1 giv+ a co>se texture4 ,?is weave is sometimes call$ ! panama weave4 ,sid5ote3 ,d\ble ,clo? ,9 ! ?ick] fabrics l m5's suit+s & ov]coat+s1 !re may be a d\ble s]ies ( w>p ?reads1 only "o s]ies appe>+ on ! face ( ! goods1 & 9 ! /ill ?ick] fabrics1 !re may be a d\ble set ( bo? w>p & fill+ ?reads1 mak+ d\ble clo?1 ! two sides ( :i* may be entirely diff]5t 9 color & design4 ,sid5ote3 ,velvet ,9 weav+ plu%1 velvet & velvete51 loops are made 9 ! fill+ or w>p ?reads :i* are aft]w>ds cut1 produc+ ! pile4 ,,blea*+1 ,,dye+1 ,,pr9t+1 ,,f9i%+ ,:5 ! clo? comes f ! loom x is by no means ready = ! m>ket4 ,ne>ly all k9ds are wa%$ & press$ & 9 "s classes ( goods ! f9i%+ process is v elaborate4 ,,blea*+ ,,& ,,dye+ ,! fib] may be dy$ 9 a loose or unspun /ate1 z is cu/om>y ) wool2 aft] x has be5 spun & is 9 ! =m ( y>n1 z 9 ! case ( silk & l952 & :5 x has be5 wov5 to =m clo?1 z is mo/ commonly ! case ) cotton4 ,sid5ote3 ,madd] ,blea* ,! blea*+ ( cotton involves a numb] ( /eps1 ! mo/ ?or\gh process be+ call$ ! madd] blea*1 9 :i* ! clo? is 7#a7 wet out1 7#b7 boil$ ) lime wat]1 7#c7 r9s$1 7#d7 treat$ ) acid1 7#e7 r9s$1 7#f7 boil$ ) soap & alkali1 7#g7 r9s$1 7#h7 treat$ ) blea*+ p[d] solution1 7#i7 r9s$1 7#aj7 treat$ ) acid1 7#aa7 f9ally r9s$ aga94 ,all ?is is done by ma*9es & hundr$s ( y>ds g ?r\gh ! process at a "t4 ,! product is a pure :ite clo? suitable = dye+ light %ades & = :ite goods4 ,:5 clo? is to be dy$ a d>k %ade ! treatm5t is less elaborate4 ,sid5ote3 ,s+e+ & ,%e>+ ,if ! clo? is to be pr9t$ = calicoes1 be=e blea*+ x is s+$ by pass+ ?r\gh gas flames or ov] a r$ hot plate & !n %e>$ 9 a %e>+ ma*9e con/ruct$ some:at on ! pr9ciple ( ! lawn m[]1 ! clo? be+ run close to ! rapidly revolv+ knives4 ,al?\gh cotton is usually dy$ 9 ! piece1 x may be dy$ 9 ! =m ( y>n1 z = g+hams1 & sometimes be=e be+ wov51 9 ! loose /ate4 ,sid5ote3 ,mordant ,colors ,cotton is m difficult to dye ?an wool or silk4 ,al?\gh !re are n[ :at are call$ direct cotton colors1 ! usual process is to fir/ treat ! cotton goods ) a mordant--v>i\s salts ( alum9um1 *romium1 iron1 t9 & copp]1 fix+ ^! on ! fib] by means ( tann9 or alkali4 ,! mordant$ clo? is !n ent]$ into ! dye ba? & boil$ = an h\r or long]1 until ! desir$ %ade is obta9$ or ! dye ba? exhau/$4 ,! salts ( alum9um are us$ z mordants = ! light] %ades1 ! salts ( *romium = ! m$ium %ades1 & iron = ! d>k %ades4 ,9 g5]al1 *romium mordants give ! fa/e/ dyes4 ,sid5ote3 ,anil9e ,dyes ,! discov]y ( ! s-call$ anil9e dyes has greatly increas$ ! v>iety ( colors available4 ,al?\gh "s ( ! fir/ anil9e dyes to be made 7 n fa/ to wa%+ or to light & !y ?us receiv$ a bad reputation1 !y are n[ to be obta9$ :i* comp>e favorably 9 fa/ness ) ! natural dye /uffs su* z co*9eal1 madd]1 etc41 provid$ suffici5t "t & c>e are giv5 to dye+4 ,! *ief tr\ble is t 9 ! endeavor to furni% *eap goods1 processes are hurri$ & results are unsatisfactory4 ,sid5ote3 ,home ,dye+ ,home dye+ is practically conf9$ to ! use ( direct anil9e colors4 ,^! are put up 9 small quantities & sold 9 _m places4 ,directions = _! use are giv5 on ! packages4 ,! *ief precautions are to h ! goods p]fectly clean & ?or\ghly wet be=e ent]+ into ! dye ba? 7?is is by no means z easy z "o might ?9k71 & to keep ! goods 9 motion :ile dye+ s z to prev5t unev5ness ( %ade4 ,wool & silk dyes _c be us$ = cotton & l951 nor ! rev]se4 ,( c\rse clo? already color$ _c be dy$ a light] %ade ( ! same color & ! orig9al %ade mu/ be v light to enable "o to *ange ! color1 say f r$ to blue1 etc4 ,! orig9al color always modifies t ( ! dye some:at & x is be/ to exp]im5t fir/ ) a small portion ( ! dye & clo?4 ,r d>k %ades are apt to be mo/ successful4 ,sid5ote3 ,natural ,dye/uffs ,indigo = blue1 madd] = ,turkey r$1 logwood ) fu/ic = black1 cut* or gambia = br[ns on cotton are ab\t all ! natural dye/uffs :i* are us$ to any ext5t comm]cially at ! pres5t "t4 ,! artificial product aliz]91 ! active pr9ciple ( madd]1 has ab\t sup]s$$ ! natural dye/uff1 & artificial indigo is ga9+ on ! natural product4 ,l95 is blea*$ & dy$ 9 mu* ! same mann] z cotton1 al?\gh ! process is m difficult4 ,! process ( blea*+ weak5s l95 m ?an cotton4 ,sid5ote3 ,dye+ ,wool5 & ,silk ,wool5 & silk may be dy$ directly ) a great v>iety ( dyes )\t ! addition ( a mordant1 al?\gh !y are (t5 mordant$4 ,bo? mu/ be well wa%$ or sc\r$ be=e dye+4 ,:5 :ite or delicate %ades on wool5 or silk are desir$ !y are blea*$4 ,! blea*+ is usually done ) sulphur\s acid gas1 ! clo? or y>n be+ expos$ 9 a damp condition to ! fumes ( burn+ sulphur4 ,7 x n = ! exp5se1 hydrog5 p]oxide w\ld be ! ideal blea*+ ag5t = ! animal fib]s4 ,,pr9t+ ,a great v>iety ( color$ designs are produc$ on ! loom by us+ diff]5t color$ w>p & fill+ y>ns & diff]5t weaves1 b 9 all ^! ! designs are easily made only 9 some:at rectangul> patt]ns4 ,sid5ote3 ,block & ,ma*9e ,pr9t+ ,pr9t goods h d\btless evolv$ f ! decoration ( fabrics ) ! bru%4 ,block pr9t+ 0 fir/ us$1 ! design be+ engrav$ 9 relief on blocks ( wood4 ,^! are dipp$ 9 ! color$ pa/e1 spread ?9ly1 & appli$ to successive portions ( ! clo? by h&4 ,^! blocks are n[ replac$ 9 ! pr9t+ ma*9e by engrav$ copp] rolls1 ! design be+ su* t x is repeat$ once or a numb] ( times 9 ea* revolution ( ! cyl9d]4 ,!re is a pr9t+ roll = ea* color ( ! design4 ,sometimes bo? ! backgr\nd & ! design are pr9t$ on ! clo?1 b ! m common process is = ! design only to be pr9t$ on ! clo? :i* may be dy$ aft]w>ds4 ,9 ! pa/e ( ! pr9t$ design !re is "s *emical :i* prev5ts ! portions pr9t$ f tak+ ! dye1 consequ5tly ^! rema9 :ite or a diff]5t color4 ,?is is call$ ! resi/ process4 ,ano!r process is to fir/ dye ! clo? & !n pr9t on "s *emical :i*1 :5 ! calico is /eam$1 dis*>ges ! color4 ,?is is call$ ! dis*>ge process4 ,sometimes ?is weak5s ! goods 9 ! places :]e ! color has be5 dis*>g$4 ,sid5ote3 ,fix+ ! ,pr9t ,! color pa/e us$ = pr9t+ conta9s bo? ! dye & ! mordant4 ,aft] ! calico has be5 pr9t$ x is /eam$ to develop & fix ! color1 wa%$1 sometimes v slightly blea*$1 to cle> ! :ites1 & usually giv5 a siz+ ( />* or gum1 & !n press$ & dri$ by pass+ ov] sl[ly revolv+1 /eam-heat$ drums4 ,9 g5]al pr9t goods are n s fa/ to wa%+ & to light z ^? t h be5 dy$ 9 ! regul> way1 al?\gh ! bett] grades are reasonably fa/4 ,pr9ts are sometimes made 9 imitation ( ! m co/ly g+ham or o!r goods 9 :i* ! color design is made 9 ! weav+4 ,x is easy to detect ! imitation z ! design ( pr9t$ fabrics does n p5etrate to ! back ( ! clo?4 ,sid5ote3 ,w>p ,pr9t+ ,sometimes ! w>ps are pr9t$ be=e ! clo? is wov51 ?us giv+ v pretty indef9ite designs1 especially 9 silk4 ,,f9i%+ ,sid5ote3 ,burl+ & ,m5d+ ,! f9i%+ ( wool5 & wor/$ goods has mu* to d ) _! appe>ance4 ,no clo? comes f ! loom 9 a p]fect condition1 !re=e inspection is ! fir/ process4 ,loose ?reads & knots are c>efully cut (f by ! burl] & imp]fections 9 ! weav+ rectifi$ by ! m5d]s4 ,! goods may n[ be s+$ & %e>$4 ,sid5ote3 ,full+ ,sid5ote3 ,flocks ,wool5s1 & sometimes wor/$s1 are next full$ or felt$ by be+ run r\nd & r\nd 9 a ma*9e :ile moi/5$ ) soap4 ,! friction ( ! clo? on itself produces "s heat :i*1 ) ! moi/ure & soap1 causes ! goods to %r9k 9 l5g? & wid? :ile increas+ 9 ?ickness4 ,dur+ ?is process1 flocks are (t5 add$1 especially = smoo? f9i%$ wool5 goods4 ,^! flocks are f9e fib]s ( wool obta9$ f ! %e>+ ma*9e or made by cutt+ up old wool5 clo?4 ,!y are felt$ ) ! fib]s ( ! goods & add weight & firmness4 ,sid5ote3 ,rais+ ! ,nap ,aft] ! full+1 ! goods is wa%$ to remove ! soap1 dy$1 if desir$1 & (t5 speck dy$ ) a special dye :i* colors ! bits ( burs1 rema9+ 9 ! clo?1 b n ! wool4 ,! next process is ! gigg+ :i* raises ! nap4 ,! clo? is run close to rapidly revolv+ teazels & also may be run ?r\gh a napp+ ma*9e4 ,x may be %e>$ aga9 & !n /eam$ & press$4 ,?is is b a brief outl9e2 !re are g5]ally m processes4 ,wool5 clo? com+ f ! loom may be s treat$ 9 ! f9i%+ room z to produce fabrics entirely diff]5t 9 appe>ance4 ,"o ( ! *ief objects ( ! f9i%+ is to give to ! clo? z f9e an appe>ance z possible to attract ! buy]4 ,mu* ( ! f9e f9i% disappe>s ?r\gh we>1 especially ) inf]ior goods made f poor mat]ials4 ,! we>+ quality ( ! goods is prim>ily dep5d5t ^u ! /r5g? & quality ( ! fib]s ( :i* x is made1 s t ! y>n ( ! fill+ & ! w>p %\ld be exam9$ :5 select+ mat]ials4 ,9 g5]al h>d twi/$ y>n w give ! bett] we>+ clo?4 ,,fabrics ,! pres5t day %ops (f] su* a great v>iety ( fabrics t only a few ( ! mo/ important c be m5tion$ "h4 ,,cotton ,,goods ,cotton is cool & heavy1 is a non-conductor ( heat1 cru%es easily1 b l all vegetable fib]s x may be laund]$ )\t injury to ! fib]s4 ,cotton does n take ! d>k] dyes z well z animal fib]s & = ?is reason x does n comb9e satisfactorily ) wool4 ,z an adult]ant x we>s %abby & loses its brightness4 ,x is only :5 cotton does n pret5d to be any?+ else t x is our mo/ useful & durable textile4 ,! read9ess ) :i* cotton takes ! light] dyes & improv$ me?ods ( g9n+1 sp9n+1 & weav+ h made cotton goods sup]ior to any o!r = summ] use4 ,sid5ote3 ,musl9 ,musl91 calico1 & g+ham mu/ always head ! li/ ( cotton goods4 ,musl9 is co>se & f9e1 blea*$1 unblea*$1 & half blea*$1 twill$ or pla9 weave4 ,"u ! head ( musl9 br\ght to a high degree ( p]fection 9 weave & f9i% w be f\nd dimity1 mull1 ,indian lawn1 org&ie1 ,swiss1 & ,madras1 & a ho/ ( o!rs equally beautiful4 ,madras musl9 has a ?9 transp>5t gr\nd ) a heavily rais$ patt]n wov5 ( a s(t1 ?ick ?read unlike ! gr\nd "w4 ,wa/e is us$ = ! patt]n4 ,org&ie musl9 is s(t1 opaque1 :ite1 or color$1 ) rais$ dots ( patt]n & pla9 weave4 ,dimity has a f9e cord runn+ ) ! selvage4 ,g+ham is a smoo?1 close cotton usually wov5 9 *ecks or /ripes4 ,! y>n is dy$ be=e be+ wov51 mak+ ! clo? alike on bo? sides1 & ! weave is ei!r pla9 or twill$4 ,g+hams are also wov5 ( silk & cotton mix$ or ( silk & ramie4 ,cretonne1 *9tz1 dress l9+s1 crape1 velvete51 & lace are made ( cotton4 ,flannelette1 :i* is wov5 to imitate flannel1 is s(t & light & is pref]r$ by _m :o f9d wool5 irritat+4 ,x does n %r9k z wool5 does & is made 9 beautiful1 s(t colors & ! be/ grades d n fade4 ,= nightdresses1 und]we>1 & %eets1 dur+ cold wea!r ?is inexp5sive fabric is unequal$4 ,among ! heavi] cotton fabrics may be m5tion$ d5im & tick+ :i* are n[ pr9t$ 9 beautiful designs & colors & us$ = int]ior decoration z well z = clo?+ & b$d+4 ,! great v>iety ( fib]s1 ! _m diff]5t ways ( prep>+ ea* = manufacture1 ! diff]5ces 9 ! prep>atory processes 9 sp9n+1 weav+1 or 9 any ( ! lat] processes ( f9i%+ produce ! v>i$ appe>ance ( ! f9i%$ product 9 cotton z 9 o!r fabrics4 ,,l95s ,l95 is "o ( ! olde/ textiles2 x 0 us$ by ! e>ly ,egyptians = ! prie/s' g>m5ts & = ! wrapp+s ( mummies4 ,_m h\sekeep]s ?9k t !re is no mat]ial = %eets & pill[ cases comp>able to l951 b x is n an ideal dress+ = b$s1 = 9 spite ( its heavi] body1 x wr9kles & musses mu* m readily ?an good cotton4 ,= table s]vice1 h[ev]1 = ! toilet1 & = m9or ornam5tal purposes l95 has no equal4 ,its smoo?ness ( texture1 its brilliancy :i* laund]+ increases1 its we>+ qualities1 its exquisite fre%ness1 make x ! "o fabric fit = ! table4 ,sid5ote3 ,table ,l95 ,table l95 is wov5 pla9 & figur$1 *eck$ & diap]$4 ,9 ! figur$ or damask clo? ! patt]ns /& out di/9ctly4 ,?is is due to ! play ( light & %ade on ! horizontal & v]tical l9es4 ,9 "s lights ! patt]n is sc>cely noticeable4 ,:5 buy+ a clo?1 let x be betwe5 ! obs]v] & ! light1 = 9 ?is position ! patt]n w %[ to ! be/ advantage4 ,!re is a c]ta9 am\nt ( %ade on all horizontal l9es or ( %ad[ ca/ by !m1 :ile ! v]tical l9es are illum9at$1 ?us al?\gh ! w>p & wo( ?reads are ( ! same color1 ! patt]n seems to /& out f ! backgr\nd4 ,l95 %\ld n be adult]at$4 ,x %\ld be = use & n = %[1 = use bright5s & :it5s x4 ,l95 adult]at$ ) cotton becomes fuzzy ?r\gh we> because ( ! mu* %ort] cotton fib]s4 ,! t5d5cy c (t5 be se5 by roll+ ! goods betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]s4 ,cra% ( diff]5t wid?s & quality furni%es tea t[els1 huck1 damask & o!r weaves come 9 v>i\s wid?s & may be pur*as$ by ! y>d4 ,russia cra% is be/ = kit*5 t[els4 ,,wool5s ,,& ,,wor/$s ,sid5ote3 ,/&>d ,goods ,! _m grades ( wool ) ! great v>iety ( weaves & f9i% make an almo/ inf9ite v>iety ( wool5 & wor/$ fabrics4 ,new goods are con/antly be+ put ^u ! m>ket1 or old goods ) new names4 ,/&>d goods1 su* z s]ges1 ca%m]e1 ,h5rietta clo?1 & cov]t clo?1 are always to be f\nd 9 ! %ops4 ,^! are all twill$ goods4 ,! s]ges are wov5 ( comb$ wool & are h>%1 t\gh1 spr+y1 wor/$ fabrics ( m$ium & heavy weight1 ) a di/9ct twill1 r smoo? surface1 & pla9] back4 ,!re are also loosely wov5 s]ges4 ,ca%m]e & ,h5rietta clo? h a f9e1 irregul> twill--! f9e/ made4 ,!y are wov5 ) silk1 wool1 & cotton w>p1 b ! latt] gives an inf]ior textile4 ,sid5ote3 ,twe$s ,twe$s & homespuns are names giv5 to co>se clo? ( :i* ! wool is spun by h& & wov5 on h& looms4 ,^! goods v>y accord+ to ! locality 9 :i* !y are made4 ,! wool is mix$ )\t reg>d to color1 ! y>n be+ spun & twi/$ 9 ! mo/ primitive mann]1 giv+ ! clo? an unev51 unf9i%$ appe>ance4 ,^! are among ! be/ we>+ clo?s on ! m>ket & are especially suitable = suits t w receive h>d we>4 ,scotl& & ,irel& are fam\s = _! twe$s & homespuns & :at are kn[n z ! cottage indu/ries h be5 rec5tly reviv$ 9 ^? c\ntries z ! products ( _! h& looms h become des]v$ly popul> abroad4 ,sid5ote3 ,h>ris ,twe$s ,! ,h>ris ,twe$s1 made on ! ,isl& ( ,lewis & ,h>ris1 nor? ( ,scotl&1 are 9 ! old /yle by ! cr(t]s4 ,aft] weav+ ! goods are waulk$--mill$ or felt$--) ! b>e feet1 accompani$ by s++ ! waulk+ song & beat+ "t ) ! feet4 ,! dye+ is done 9 pots 9 ! old-fa%ion$ way & until rec5tly ! dye/uffs 7 obta9$ f mosses1 li*5s1 hea!r1 broom1 & o!r plants4 ,n[1 h[ev]1 "s ( ! be/ anil9e dyes are be+ us$4 ,a peculi> *>act]i/ic ( ! ,h>ris twe$ is ! peat smoke smell caus$ by ! fabric be+ wov5 9 ! cr(t]s' cottages1 :]e !re is always a /rong odor ( peat reek f ! peat :i* is burn$ = fuel4 ,! ord9>y s-call$ ,h>ris twe$s sold 9 ?is c\ntry are made on ! s\!rn bord] ( ,scotl&1 9 factories1 & are b imitations ( ! real ,h>ris twe$s4 ,! light color$ twe$s--natural color ( wool--come f ! isl& ( ,/4 ,kilda4 ,?is isl& /&s out 9 mid ocean1 b>r5 & wild1 devoid ( plants or %rubs ( any k9d = mak+ dyes4 ,! cr(t]s cont5t !mselves )\t dye/uffs4 ,! indu/ry is ma9ta9$ by nobility to help ! isl&]s & ! fabrics are fa%ionable & high pric$4 ,cov]t clo? is a twill$ wov5 clo? ( great beauty & durability4 ,x is r heavy1 ( h>d f9i% & is us$ = jackets & w9t] suits4 ,to ?is li/ ( wool5 goods may be add$ ! crape clo? ) cr9kl$1 r\gh surface1 nun's veil+1 flannel :i* is wov5 9 a v>iety ( ways1 broadclo?1 wool canvas1 & popl9s4 ,?is li/ includes only a few ( ! fabrics manufactur$1 b ^! are always to be f\nd on ! m>ket1 are always good 9 color & are ! be/ ( all wool textiles = we>4 ,sid5ote3 ,mohair ,sid5ote3 ,alpaca ,mohair is a mat]ial made f ! hair ( ! angora goat1 wov5 ) silk1 wool1 wor/$1 or cotton w>p4 ,x is a du/-%$d+ mat]ial1 does n %r9k1 & be>s h>d we> well4 ,alpaca1 on acc\nt ( its s(tness1 ela/icity1 & exemption f %aggy defects1 comb9es admirably ) cotton 9 ! manufacture ( f9e goods1 :i* atta9s almo/ ! glossy brightness ( silk4 ,! y>n is us$ = weav+ alpaca l9+s & light coat+s = w>m climates4 ,,silks ,_m silks c be wa%$ )\t injury to ! fib]s1 b !y _c be boil$ )\t de/roy+ ! lu/]4 ,silks may be _h 9 v>i\s wid?s & endless v>iety ( weaves4 ,_m are rev]sible4 ,sid5ote3 ,load+ ,silk ,silks are adult]at$ ) cotton & ramie fib]s4 ,! *emicals us$ 9 load+ or dynamit+ to give ! weight lo/ by clean+ or remov+ ! gum f ! raw silk give to ! *eap] grades ! /iff1 h>% feel+ & cause ! splitt+ & crack+ ( ! silk1 h5ce ! quality ( ! fib] %\ld be consid]$ :5 select+ a silk1 n ! weight4 ,taffeta is (t5 heavily load$4 ,f\l>d & surah are twill$ silks4 ,cord$ silks are wov5 ) a cord runn+ f selvage to selvage4 ,to ?is class belong ! grosgra9s1 ,ottoman1 faille ,francaise--a silk resembl+ grosgra91 b s(t] & bright]4 ,iri% popl9s & b5gal9es h wool = ! fill+ in/ead ( silk4 ,sid5ote3 ,wa% ,silks ,great improvem5t has be5 made 9 ! manufacture ( wa% silks4 ,!y are f9e 9 color & h a glossy surface4 ,pongee is a beautiful1 durable silk 9 diff]5t %ades ( natural color4 ,x is wov5 9 diff]5t wid?s4 ,?is silk is especially valuable = und]we>4 ,! fir/ co/ is great]1 b x outwe>s musl9 or l954 ,x is also us$ = *ildr5's g>m5ts & = outside wraps4 ,= _m purposes1 no bett] textile c be f\nd4 ,crepe de ,*9e is an incomp>able textile possess+ z mu* s(tness z /r5g?4 ,x is always supple1 nev] creases1 laund]s well1 & comes 9 ! mo/ beautiful s(t %ades z well z 9 black & d>k colors4 ,sat9 is di/+ui%$ by its glossy1 lu/r\s surface1 obta9$ 9 ! weav+4 ,sid5ote3 ,pil$ ,fabrics ,pil$ fabrics are ri*1 ?ick mat]ials made ( silk1 wool1 mohair1 & cotton1 compris+ ! velvets1 velvete5s1 plu%es1 corduroys1 & wilton & velvet c>pets4 ,! s(t1 rais$ pile is fir/ wov5 9 loops--,brussels c>pet is a good example--& ! loops are cut4 ,! back ( ! goods is pla94 ,sid5ote3 ,velvet ,velvet has always & ju/ly be5 reg>d$ z ! mo/ beautiful ( textiles4 ,no matt] h[ fa%ions *ange 9 reg>d to o!r mat]ials1 velvet nev] loses its vogue4 ,= robes & cloaks1 = mantles & jackets1 = hats & bonnets1 = trimm+ & decoration1 velvet has be5 popul> = a great] p]iod ?an ! life ( any liv+ mortal1 b nev] be=e has x be5 s *eap1 s v>i$ & s beautiful z x is n[4 ,"o c 9 ! pass+ ?rong ( p$e/rians on any cr[d$ /reet see ! use & abuse ( ?is noble mat]ial4 ,!re is sc>cely an article ( dress into ^: composition x does n ent] & x is worn ^u all occasions4 ,_m ?+s h br\ght ab\t ?is result4 ,! t5d5cy ( fa%ion is t[>ds ! decorative & picturesque & 9 ^! qualities velvet excels all o!r fabrics4 ,silk wa/e & ?read are *eap] ?an ev] be=e s t velvet co/s mu* less ?an =m]ly4 ,! m5 beh9d ! looms h evolv$ m designs & novelties 9 ! mak+ ( velvet ?an has ev] be5 kn[n & colors beautiful 9 !mselves are seem+ly enhanc$ :5 appli$ to velvet4 ,sid5ote3 ,velvete5 ,all t has be5 said 9 favor ( velvet applies equally z well to ! be/ velvete51--9 fact x is a textile ( ev5 great] value & beauty ?an velvet4 ,! be/ grades are n *eap1 b !y we> bett] ?an silk velvet1 are f9e & silky1 excell5t 9 color & %e51 laund] well1 & d n press-m>k z does silk velvet4 ,velvete5 takes ! dye s beautifully & f9i%es s well t x has tak5 rank ) our be/ /&>d fabrics4 ,x is made entirely ( cotton4 ,x v>ies 9 wid? b is always wid] ?an velvet4 ,sid5ote3 ,wid?s ( ,fabrics ,a k ( ! v>i\s wid?s ( textiles is important 9 buy+4 ,transp>5t fabrics are usually wid] ?an heavi] goods made ( ! same fib]4 ,musl9 is wid] ?an calico or ord9>y pr9t1 & ?9 silk fabrics su* z mull & *iffon are wid] ?an velvet4 ,9 wool dress goods v>i\s di/9ct wid?s are kn[n z s+le--?irty & ?irty-six in*es--d\ble fold 7=ty-five & fifty-f\r in*es71 etc4 ,silk1 velvet1 & velvete5 are s+le wid?4 ,! velvet ranges f eighte5 to tw5ty-f\r in*es 9 wid? & velvete5 tw5ty-sev54 ,bodice l9+s v>y f ?irty-five to ?irty-eight in*es2 skirt l9+s come 9 bo? s+le & d\ble fold4 ,h\sehold l95 includ+ b$d+ v>ies 9 wid? f "o y>d to two & "o-f\r? & two & "o-half y>ds = %eet+ & f ?irty-eight to fifty-f\r in*es = pill[ case musl94 ,table l95 is wov5 9 bo? squ>e & circul> clo?s ( v>i\s sizes1 & napk9s v>y 9 wid? f ! small sizes to a y>d squ>e4 ,no fix$ wid?s c be giv5 = any textile z wid? (t5 *anges ) ! weave4 ,,names ,,( ,,fabrics ,textiles usually take _! names f ! c\ntry1 city1 port1 or prov9ce f :5ce !y orig9at$2 f ! names ( ! mak]s2 & me?ods ( weav+1 dye+1 ornam5tation1 etc4 ,! fix+ ( localities1 me?ods1 etc41 is (t5times guesswork4 ,! textiles ( to-day be>+ ! same "n z ^? ( ! middle ages h no?+ 9 common4 ,buckram 0 orig9ally made 9 & call$ f ,bokk>a4 ,9 ! middle ages x 0 co/ly1 f9e1 & beautiful1 us$ = *ur* ve/m5ts1 veils = cov]+ lect]ns1 ca!dral flags1 & 9 ! #af? c5tury = ! l9+ ( velvet g[ns4 ,! co>se1 heavy1 pla9-wov5 l95 or cotton mat]ial kn[n z buckram today is us$ = /iff5+1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,fu/ian ,fu/ian1 a k9d ( corduroy or velvete51 0 orig9ally wov5 at ,fu/at on ! ,nile4 ,! w>p 0 /\t l951 ! wo( ( cotton s twill$ & cut t x gave a l[ ?ick pile4 ,*auc]'s knight 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury wore fu/ian4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury ,naples 0 fam\s = ! weav+ ( fu/ians4 ,a clo? made 9 ,france at a t[n call$ ,mu/revilli]s 0 kn[n z mu/yrd devells4 ,sid5ote3 ,damask ,*9a is suppos$ to be ! fir/ c\ntry to weave patt]n$ silks4 ,india1 ,p]sia1 ,syria1 & ,byzant9e ,greece foll[$4 ,^? 7 kn[n z diaspron or diap]1 a "n giv5 !m at ,con/ant9ople4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury1 ! city ( ,damascus1 long fam$ = h] beautiful textiles1 out/ripp$ all o!r places = beauty ( design & gave ! ,damasc5 or damask1 s we h 9 mod]n times all fabrics :e!r ( silk1 cotton1 wool1 or l951 curi\sly wov5 & design$1 kn[n z damask1 & diap]1 :i* means patt]n1 is almo/ =gott51 or only a "p ( ! elaborate design on damask4 ,b&ek91 a co/ly clo?1 took its "n f ,bagdad4 ,dorneck an inf]ior damask wov5 ( silk1 wool1 l951 ?read & gold1 0 made 9 ,fl&]s at ! city ( ,dorneck4 ,sid5ote3 ,musl9 ,f ! ,asiatic city ,mosul came ! musl9 us$ !n z x is n[ ?r\gh\t ! _w4 ,s skill$ 7 its weav]s t ! ?reads 7 ( hair-l f95ess4 ,?is 0 kn[n z ! invisible musl91 ! weav+ ( :i* has become a lo/ art4 ,to ?is beautiful clo? 7 giv5 _m fanciful & poetic names4 ,x 0 wov5 ) /rips ( gold & silv]4 ,sid5ote3 ,calico ,calico d]ives its "n f ! city ( ,calicut 9 ,india4 ,! city is sc>cely kn[n to-day2 x 0 ! fir/ ,indian city visit$ by ,europeans4 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury ,arras 0 fam\s = its are/e or tape/ry1 ! noble/ ( ! weav+ arts2 9 x !re is no?+ me*anical4 ,me*anical weav+ repeats ! patt]n on ! clo? )9 comp>atively n>r[ limits & ! numb] ( colors is 9 mo/ cases limit$ to f\r or five4 ,silks & cottons are di/+ui%$ ?r\gh _! colors & %ades4 ,t>sus 0 a purple silk4 ,o!r cities gave _! "n to v>i\s %ades1 accord+ z !y 7 dy$ at ,antio*1 ,alex&ria1 or at ,naples4 ,wat]$ or moire silk takes its "n f ! f9i%4 ,f canabis1 ! ,lat9 "n = hemp or flax1 we h ! ^w canvas to mean any texture wov5 ( hemp5 ?read4 ,to ?is li/ ( fabrics might be add$ _m o!rs ( cotton1 l951 wool1 & silk ) new names1 closely resembl+ ! old mat]ials1 hav+ great] or less m]it4 ,! foll[+ li/s ( fabrics & t]ms may be helpful = ref]5ce3 ,art l95--,) r\nd1 h>d twi/$ ?reads4 ,alb]t clo?--,nam$ = ,engl&'s pr9ce1 is a rev]sible all-wool mat]ial ea* side ( diff]5t colors & s f9i%$ t no l9+ is requir$4 ,x is us$ *iefly = ov]coats & bett] kn[n z golf clo?1 plaid back1 etc4 ,armure--,a clo? wov5 9 m9iature imitation ( feudal metal armor plates1 h]aldic devices1 diamonds1 birdseye1 & se$$ effects4 ,a/rakhan--,a wool5 or silk mat]ial ) a long & closely curl$ pile 9 imitation ( ! fur f :i* x is nam$4 ,back$-clo? wor/$s or o!r fabrics :i* are wov5 ) an extra lay] ( w>p or o!r fill+ und]nea? ! face1 usually = increas$ weight & bulk4 ,bati/e--,! ,fr5* ^w = lawn1 f9e :ite cotton or l95 fabric4 ,sometimes pr9t$4 ,batt+ or padd+1 cotton or wool prep>$ 9 %eets = quilt+ or int]l9+4 ,beav]--,simil> to ,k]sey1 b ) a long] nap1 s(t1 ?ick nap inside4 ,b$=d cord--,a closely wov5 wool5 or cotton clo? hav+ a rais$ cord$ surface simil> to pique1 us$ = wom5's suits4 ,bonde--,a loosely wov5 fabric ) a curly1 hairy surface1 usually made ) a j]sey or /ock9et body4 ,b\rette--,an effect ( weav+ produc$ by fancy y>ns %[+ 9 lumps at int]vals ov] ! face ( ! clo?2 us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's suits4 ,bev]te5--,a heavy cotton clo? us$ = m5's hunt+ g>m5ts4 ,broadclo?--,a f9e wool5 clo? ) a glossy f9i%$ surface1 ! bett] grades be+ wov5 ) a twill$ back4 ,x takes its "n f its wid?4 ,x is us$ = m5's & wom5's we>4 ,buckram--,a co>se1 heavy1 pla9-wov5 l95 or cotton mat]ial us$ = /iff5+4 ,bucksk9--,a /\t doe sk9 ) a m def9$ twill4 ,butt]nut--,! co>se br[n twill$ homespun clo? wov5 ( wool prior to ! ,civil ,w>--color$ br[n ) dye f ! butt]nut or walnut tree2 us$ = m5's we> & = decorative purposes4 ,cambric--,f9e :ite l951 also made 9 cotton 9 imitation4 ,camel's hair--,a beautiful1 s(t1 silky fabric1 usually wov5 l *eviot ( hair ( camel & goat4 ,canvas--,a l951 cotton1 silk1 or wool clo? ( diff]5t weaves & wid?s1 us$ = _m purposes--clo?+1 z a backgr\nd = embroid]y1 hang+s1 spreads1 etc4 ,canton flannel--,a /\t1 twill$ cotton clo? ) a nap on "o or bo? sides1 us$ = clo?+ & decorative purposes4 ,cassim]e--,a g5]al t]m = all-wool fabrics wov5 ei!r pla9 or twill$1 co>se or f9e1 ( wool5 y>n4 ,! patt]n is always wov5 pla9 & di/9ct & ! clo? is nev] napp$4 ,ca/or ,beav]--,a heavy1 mill$1 face-f9i%$1 all-wool clo? light] 9 weight ?an ord9>y beav]4 ,*9*illa--,a ?ick1 heavy1 d\ble wov5 fabric ) a long napp$ surface curl$ up into little tufs 9 imitation ( *9*illa fur2 us$ = coats4 ,clan ,t>tan--,! plaids ( ! v>i\s highl& clans ( ,scotl&4 ,clay--,a "n giv5 to s]ges1 wor/$s1 & diagonals wov5 aft] a process ( ,j4 ,p4 ,clay ( ,hadd]sfield1 ,engl&4 ,coat+--,^? wool5 & wor/$ fabrics mo/ especially adapt$ to m5's dress & ov]coats4 ,corduroy--,a ?ick cotton pile mat]ial1 cord$ or ribb$ on ! surface2 us$ = m5's1 wom5's & *ildr5's we>4 ,corkscrew-wor/$ goods--,s-call$ f its fanci$ resemblance to ! twi/s ( ! corkscrew4 ,cotton wor/$--,all cotton or "p cotton wor/$-wove clo?4 ,cottonade--,/\t cotton clo? 9 imitation ( wool5 or wor/$2 us$ = m5's tr\s]s4 ,cov]t--,a twill-wov5 clo? sometimes ) full face1 sometimes %e>$ to imitate :ipcord4 ,crape clo?--,a /\t wor/$ fabric ) surface 9 imitation ( silk crape1 us$ = dress coats4 ,cra%--,a /rong1 c\rse l95 clo? ( diff]5t wid?s1 us$ = t[els1 suits1 table l951 hang+s1 b$ spreads2 9 fact1 !re is no end to ! uses to :i* ?is textile c be adapt$4 ,crav5ette--,clo?s treat$ & f9i%$ be=e weav+ by an improv$ process :i* r5d]s !m ra9pro(4 ,a secret process own$ by ! ,crav5ette ,company & by ,prie/ly ,company ( ,engl& & ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,crepe--,a light weight silk1 silk & wool1 or all wool or cotton clo? ( irregul> weave4 ,diagonal--,a wor/$ clo? ) prom95t diagonal ridges4 ,doesk9--,a compact twill$ wool51 s(t & pliable4 ,drap ,d',alma--,a f9e1 close1 flat-ribb$1 twill$ fabric ( wool or silk & wool1 f9i%$ on b "o side4 ,drap ,d',ete--,a f9e1 light wor/$ fabric wov5 9 longitud9al cords4 ,drill+--,g5]al t]m = v>i\s cotton /uffs us$ = l9+ m5's we>1 & g5]al purposes4 ,empress clo?--,a heavy dress goods ) napp$ or cord$ surface1 nam$ = ! ,empress ,eug5ia2 sometimes call$ ,electrol clo? or ,b]etz4 ,etam9e--,a light wool5 clo? simil> to bati/e & nun's clo?1 us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's we>4 ,faille ,francaise--,a s(t1 lu/r\s silk ( wid] cord ?an grosgra91 b n>r[] ?an ottoman4 ,f>m] ,sat9--,a l9+ ( cotton *a9 or w>p & wool fill+1 f9i%$ ) a high lu/re1 also call$ ,italian clo?4 ,flannel--,a s(t1 light weight wool5 fabric ( :i* ! y>n is b lightly twi/$1 pla9 weave or twill$2 us$ = clo?+ etc4 ,flannelette--,a half cotton or all cotton flannel-l fabric4 ,frieze--,a ?ick1 %aggy1 heavy nap wool5 ov]coat clo?4 ,g+ham 0 fir/ manufactur$ 9 ,gonghamp 9 ,france & 0 kn[n z ,madras g+ham4 ,se]suck] g+ham 0 orig9ally a ?9 l95 fabric made 9 ! ,ea/ ,indies4 ,zephyr g+ham is a s(t f9e v>iety ( ,scot* & ,fr5* g+hams1 are sup]ior qualities1 heavi] 9 weight4 ,fur ,beav]--,a long napp$ clo? imitation fur4 ,grass clo?--,a f9e1 smoo?1 l95 wov5 9 *ecks ( blue & :ite1 r$ & :ite1 etc41 us$ = di% t[els2 also a ?9 dress mat]ial ( ramie & cotton1 etc4 ,gr5ad9e--,a ?ick silk gauze1 ei!r pla9 ) a solid design or patt]n ^u x or comb9$ 9 /ripes ) o!r weaves1 z sat91 moire1 etc4 ,grosgra9--,a close-wov51 f9ely ribb$ or cord$ silk ) b little lu/re4 ,hairclo?--,a clo? wov5 ( horse hair1 f :i* x takes its "n1 = weft ) cotton or l95 w>p2 us$ = fac+s1 l9+s1 furniture cov]1 etc4 ,holl&--,a /\t1 pla9-wove1 unblea*$1 l95 clo? us$ = l9+s1 w9d[ %ades1 etc4 ,homespun--,a clo? wov5 on h& looms or made 9 imitation ( su* clo? = bo? m5's & wom5's we>4 ,hop-sack+--,a pla9 wov5 canvas dress fabric ( wool4 ,hu*aback--,a corruption ( huck/]-back1 mean+ orig9ally p$l]'s w>e--,t[el+ made ( all l951 l95 & cotton1 cotton & wool1 ei!r by ! y>d or z sep>ate t[els2 ! "p wool huck always sep>ate t[els4 ,iri% l95--,full blea*$1 f9e1 pla9 wov5 l95 us$ = %irts1 coll>s1 cuffs1 etc41 ( diff]5t wid?s4 ,j]sey clo?--,wool5 /ock9ette4 ,kaikai--,a ?9 ,japanese silk4 ,k]sey--,a heavy1 closely wov5 clo? ) a smoo? face & glossy f9i%4 ,k]seym]e--,a f9e1 twill$1 wool5 clo? ( peculi> texture1 "o ?read ( w>p & two ( wool be+ always above4 ,khaki--,a light1 yell[-br[n color$ cotton clo? us$ = army s]vice 9 hot c\ntries4 ,ladies' clo?--,a f9e1 wide1 wool flannel1 slightly napp$1 simil> to broadclo?4 ,lu/]9e--,a ?91 twill$1 cotton l9+ f9i%$ ) high lu/re 9 imitation ( silk4 ,m>seilles--,a sort ( figur$ pique1 us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's clo!s & = m5's coats4 ,matelasse--,a silk & wool or all wool brocade1 usually = coats4 ,melton--,a /\t wool5 clo?1 full$1 %e>$1 & f9i%$ )\t a nap2 l ,k]sey1 b )\t a gloss4 ,m]9o--,a ?9 wool5 fabric made ( ! f9e wool ( ! m>ion %eep1 g5]ally us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's we>1 ve/+s1 & und]clo?+4 ,mohair--,a %9y fabric ( great durability1 made f ! wool ( ! ,angora goat2 us$ = bo? m5's & wom5's clo?+4 ,moire--,! wat] effect produc$ on silk1 more51 & l fabrics4 ,! f9e/ wat]$ silks are kn[n z ,moire ,antique4 ,more5 is a wool5 or mix$ fabric to :i* ! same process has be5 appli$4 ,molesk9--,a m$ium heavy twill$ cotton clo?1 napp$ inside2 us$ = m5's we> & ornam5tal purposes4 ,musl9--,a cotton fabric ( v>i\s classes & names2 blea*$ & unblea*$1 half blea*$1 cambric1 book musl91 long clo?1 mull1 org&ie1 lawns1 etc42 us$ = all purposes4 ,nanke5--,a peculi> fabric ( a pale dull yell[ or orange color1 wov5 out ( ! fibr\s tissue :i* lies betwe5 ! out] & sap-wood ( a tree or %rub t gr[s 9 ! ,ea/ ,indies & especially 9 ,*9a4 ,! "n is d]iv$ f ! city ( ,nank94 ,an imitation is made out ( cotton1 color$ ) ,annato4 ,! g5u9e nanke5 is nev] m ?an eighte5 or tw5ty in*es wide & is us$ = light summ] clo?+4 ,ov]coat+--,fabrics wov5 especially = ov]coats--cov]t1 k]sey1 melton1 beav]1 frieze1 vicuna1 :ipcord1 *eviot1 *9*illa1 etc41 made ( bo? wool & wor/$4 ,pique--,a heavy cotton clo? hav+ a surface t is cord$ or hav+ a rais$ loz5ge patt]n2 us$ = wom5's & *ildr5's suits1 m5's ve/s1 etc4 ,prunella--,la/+ clo?4 ,sate5--,a close twill$ cotton fabric1 s(t & glossy1 us$ = l9+4 ,sat9--,a silk fabric hav+ a high lu/re on its face4 ,sat9et--,a *eap clo?+ mat]ial simil> to cassim]e1 made ) a cotton w>p & a fill+ ( %ort1 inf]ior1 %oddy wool :i* is mix$ ) en\gh long wool to enable x to be spun & wov5 9 a way to br+ t fill+ to ! surface ( ! clo?2 aft]w>ds full$1 %e>$1 & ! patt]n pr9t$ on ! face4 ,s]ge--,a l9+ ( cotton or l95 w>p & a wool or mohair fill+1 wov5 ?ree-leaf twill4 ,s]ge--,a f9e1 diagonal1 twill$1 wor/$--bo? all wor/$ & ) a wor/$ w>p & wool5 fill+2 us$ = m5's & wom5's suits4 ,%etl&s--,v %aggy ov]coat+s1 nam$ f ! ,%etl& pony1 ! coat ( :i* x is suppos$ to imitate 9 appe>ance4 ,%oddy--,wa/e ?r[n (f 9 sp9n+--%r$d$ rags1 & bits ( clo? manipulat$ into new clo?4 ,sicilian--,a mohair fabric4 ,silesia--,a light1 close-wov51 f9e twill$ cotton fabric us$ = dress l9+s1 etc4 ,/ock9et--,a pla91 ela/ic texture made on a knitt+ frame1 us$ = und]we>1 etc4 ,surah--,a twill$ silk simil> to s]ge2 fir/ made 9 ,surat1 ,india4 ,tricot--,a d\ble-twill clo? hav+ bo? a w>p & fill+ effect4 ,twe$--,mu* l homespun 9 appe>ance1 bo? be+ ei!r twill$ or pla94 ,!y are made f r\gh wor/$ y>n spun at home4 ,9 twe$ ! y>n is h>d] twi/$1 giv+ a m di/9ct twill4 ,x is g5]ally m compact1 less r\gh1 & bett] f9i%$ ?an homespun4 ,uni=m clo?--,clo? suitable = uni=ms1 usually a /\t1 full$1 wool5 clo?1 simil> to k]sey4 ,v5etian--,a clo? mill$ & cropp$ b>e 9 f9i%4 ,vicuna--,a s(t twill$ clo? simil> to *eviot1 made ( ! ,&es vicuna1 h5ce its "n4 ,:ipcord--,a wor/$ clo? hav+ a small1 prom95t twill4 ,ya*t clo?--,a flannel heavi] ?an ord9>y s]ge or flannel4 99 99 99 99 99 ,cord--,! g5]al t]m is appli$ to any fabric 9 :i* ! l9es run 9 ! same direction z ! selvage4 ,c\nt--,9 sp9n+1 ! numb] giv5 to any ?read or y>n1 except silk1 to indicate its relative f95ess1 bas$ on ! numb] ( y>ds requir$ to weigh "o p\nd4 ,felt--,a clo? ( wool1 hair1 fur1 etc41 n wov51 b felt$ toge!r2 us$ = hats1 slipp]s1 boot tops1 etc4 ,flock--,f9ely divid$ wool5 wa/e us$ 9 f9i%+ *eap wool5s4 ,kemps--,fib]s or hair l /ructure t sometimes come 9 wool1 always 9 goat hair4 ,!y d n take ! dye4 ,m]c]iz$--,a t]m appli$ to cotton fabrics ( :i* ! y>n is *emically treat$ ) a /rong solution ( cau/ic soda1 giv+ ! appe>ance ( silk1 m or less p]man5t2 nam$ aft] ,m]c]1 discov]] ( ! process4 ,mill ends--,trade t]m ref]r+ to %ort l5g?s1 seconds1 damag$ pieces1 etc41 ( clo?1 embroid]ies1 etc41 t accumulate 9 mills & %ops & are usually sold at a nom9al price4 ,n>r[ clo?--,trade t]m = fabrics less ?an #bi in*es wide4 ,wid] clo?s are call$ broad clo?s4 ,oil-boil$--,trade t]m = colors s treat$ to insure p]man5ce4 ,oil$ silk--,! pla9 silk boil$ 9 oil4 ,silk boil$ 9 oil & dri$1 becom+ transluc5t & wat]pro(2 us$ z a p]spiration gu>d4 ,pepp]-&-salt--,a black & :ite or grayi% mixture1 effect$ 9 weav+4 ,rubb] clo?--,usually cotton %eet+ or drill+ ) a coat+ ( rubb] on "o side2 us$ z a protective clo? = v>i\s purposes4 ,%eph]d *eck--,t9y *ecks1 usually black & :ite4 ,twill$--,wov5 9 su* a mann] z to produce l9es or ribs diagonally or across ! surface ( ! fabric4 ,wool5s--,"n ( fabrics or c>d$ wool1 usually s(t wov54 ,wor/$s--,fabrics made ( comb$ wool1 usually h>d wov54 ,! comb+ is ! process ( arrang+ ! fib]s ( wool1 mohair1 cotton1 l951 into a p>allel condition1 prep>atory to sp9n+ into a smoo?1 ev5 & regul> y>n4 ,! p]fect$ application ( ! comb+ pr9ciple4 ,,bibliography ,,on ,,textiles ,hi/orical & ,art ,arts & ,crafts ,essays #a4jj ,morris1 ,crane1 et al4 ,po/age 4#aj ,colonial ,days 9 ,old ,new ,engl& #a4be ,alice ,morse ,e>le4 ,po/age 4#ab ,! ,primitive ,family #a4be ,/>cke4 ,po/age 4#ab ,man ,be=e ,metals #a4ge ,joly4 ,po/age 4#ad ,orig9 ( ,inv5tions #a4ej ,mason4 ,po/age 4#af ,woman's ,%>e 9 ,primitive ,culture #a4ge ,mason4 ,po/age 4#af ,textiles--,! ,less] ,arts #a4jj ,william ,morris4 ,po/age 4#aj ,indu/rial ,evolution ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates #a4be ,c>roll ,d4 ,wright4 ,po/age 4#af ,te*nical ,books ,?r\gh a special arrangem5t ) ! ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,correspond5ce we are able to l5d or sell to our /ud5ts "s ( _! textile books1 :i* are te*nical ?\gh simple4 ,price #ej c5ts p] "p1 po/age #d;c4 ,textile ,*emi/ry & ,dye+4 #d ,p>ts4 ,"p ,i4 ,textile ,fib]s4 ,"p ,,ii4 ,blea*+4 ,"p ,,iii4 ,mordants & ,natural ,dyes4 ,"p ,,vi4 ,artificial ,dye/uffs4 ,cotton ,fib]4 ,cotton ,sp9n+4 #e p>ts4 ,weav+4 #c ,p>ts4 ,textile ,design4 #e ,p>ts4 ,wool5 & ,wor/$ ,sp9n+4 #d p>ts4 ,wool5 & ,wor/$ ,f9i%+4 #d p>ts4 ,textile ,fib]s #c4ej ,ma!ws4 ,po/age 4#af ,textile ,fabrics 4#ij ,rock4 ,po/age 4#jh ,dye+ ( ,textile ,fabrics #a4ge ,hummell4 ,po/age 4#ab ,blea*+ & ,calico ,pr9t+ #d4jj ,du]r4 ,po/age 4#ad ,note4--,books may be ord]$ ?r\gh ! ,s*ool or may be borr[$ by memb]s = "o week4 ,s5d po/age ) reque/4 ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,publication ,free ( ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c43 ,flax = ,se$ & ,fib]1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #bg4 ,cotton ,se$ & ,its ,products1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #cf4 ,rais+ ,%eep1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #if4 ,! ,angora ,goat1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #acg4 ,silk ,worm ,culture1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #afe4 ,ess5tial ,/eps 9 ,secur+ an ,e>ly ,crop ( ,cotton1 ,f>m]s' ,bullet9 ,no4 #bag4 ,! ,cotton ,se$ ,indu/ry1 ,repr9t ,no4 #bci4 ,! ,hemp ,indu/ry 9 ,u4 ,s41 ,repr9t ,no4 #bed4 ,improvem5t ( ,cotton by ,se$ ,selection1 ,repr9t ,no4 #bgi4 ,! ,gr[+ ( ,long-,/aple ,upl& ,cotton1 ,repr9t ,no4 #cad4 ,pr9cipal ,comm]cial ,plant ,fib]s1 ,repr9t ,no4 #cba4 ,= sale by ! ,sup]9t5d5t ( ,docum5ts1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c4 ,s5d co9 or money ord]1--/amps n accept$3 ,%eep & ,wool1 ,report ,no4 #ff1 ,(fice ( ! ,secret>y4 ,price #e;c4 ,! ,cotton ,plant3 ,its ,hi/ory1 ,botany1 ,*emi/ry1 ,enemies1 & ,uses4 ,bullet9 ,no4 #cc4 ,(fice ( ,exp]im5t ,/ations4 ,price #fj;c4 ,cotton ,culture 9 ,egypt4 ,bullet9 ,no4 #db4 ,price #e;c4 ,,(fice ,,( ,,fib] ,,inve/igations4 ,uncultivat$ ,ba/ ,fib]s4 ,report ,no4 #f4 ,price #aj;c4 ,cultivation ( ,ramie4 ,report ,no4 #g4 ,price #aj;c4 ,culture ( ,hemp & ,jute4 ,report ,no4 #h4 ,price #aj;c4 ,flax ,culture = ,se$ & ,fib]4 ,report ,no4 #aj4 ,price #aj;c4 ,,te/ ,,que/ions ,! foll[+ que/ions con/itute ! writt5 recitation :i* ! regul> memb]s ( ! ,a4 ,s4 ,h4 ,e4 answ] 9 writ+ & s5d 9 = ! correction & comm5t ( ! in/ructor4 ,!y are int5d$ to emphasize & fix 9 ! memory ! mo/ important po9ts 9 ! lesson4 ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,"p ,i ,,read ,,c>efully4 ,place y\r "n & address on ! fir/ %eet ( ! te/4 ,use a light grade ( pap] & write on "o side ( ! %eet only4 ,leave space betwe5 ! answ]s = ! notes ( ! in/ructor4 ,answ] e "q fully4 ,read ! lesson pap] a numb] ( times be=e attempt+ to answ] ! "q4 #a4 ,give a brief outl9e ( ! craft ( sp9n+1 primitive & mod]n4 #b4 ,outl9e ! same = weav+4 #c4 ,describe ! h& loom4 #d4 ,describe ! cotton fib]4 ,:at k9ds are !re8 #e4 ,:o inv5t$ ! cotton g9 & h[ did ?is inv5tion affect ! cotton indu/ry8 #f4 ,give ! *ief *>act]i/ics ( wool4 ,"n ! wool & fur be>+ animals4 ,h[ does wool diff] f hair8 #g4 ,trace briefly ! prep>ation ( wool f ! fleece to ! f9i%$ product4 #h4 ,describe flax & outl9e ! me?od = ! prep>ation ( ! fib]s4 ,:at is ! "n ( ! manufactur$ product ( flax8 #i4 ,"n "s o!r ba/ fib]s & _! products8 #aj4 ,h[ d ! textile fib]s comp>e 9 ! raw /ate 9 condition & price8 #aa4 ,give a brief description ( silk f ! egg to ! wov5 clo?4 #ab4 7a7 ,:at is ! *ief con/itu5t ( ! vegetable fib]s8 7b7 ,h[ does _! aff9ity = dye/uffs comp>e ) wool & silk8 7c7 ,h[ d ! alkalies affect wool8 #ac4 ,describe ! pr9cipal weaves & give examples ( ea*4 #ad4 7a7 ,h[ are cotton & flax blea*$8 7b7 ,:at is a mordant8 7c7 ,h[ %\ld mat]ial be prep>$ = dye+8 7d7 ,/ate :at y "k ab\t old "t me?ods ( dye+4 #ae4 ,h[ are pr9t goods made8 ,"n "s pr9t$ fabrics4 #af4 ,def9e wool5s & wor/$s4 #ag4 ,describe ! f9i%+ ( wool5 & wor/$ clo?s4 #ah4 ,:at is noil2 %oddy2 felt2 flocks8 #ai4 ,) :at dress goods h y _h exp]i5ce1 & ) :at results8 #bj4 ,:at factors det]m9e ! use ( fabrics8 #ba4 ,( :at value is ! /udy ( textiles8 ,:at h y ga9$ by ! /udy ( ?is lesson8 ,note4--,aft] complet+ ! te/ sign y\r full "n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,embroid]$ ,,initials ,w & ,l--,sew$ on initials2 ,b--,sat9 /it* 9 wrea? ( fea!r /it*es2 ,c--,outl9e & se$ "w2 ,d--,*a9 & ,fr5* knots2 ,h--,cross /it*2 ,l--,*a92 ,h--,at ! "r1 & ! cross /it* ,h are made ov] canvas & ! canvas ?reads drawn4 ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,"p ,,ii ,,h& ,,sew+ ,good sew+1 good press+1 well f9i%$ ends & corn]s1 lightness ( t\* :i* holds ! "w )\t app>5tly t\*+ x1 ?us giv+ to ! f9i%$ g>m5t a fre% look--all ^! are important consid]ations4 ,sid5ote3 ,k9ds ( ,sew+ ,! sew+ done on wool1 silk1 & dresses ( all k9ds diff]s f t on und]we> & :ite "w4 ,musl9 und]we> requires frequ5t wa%+ & iron+1 h5ce ! fir/ ess5tial is durability2 close1 small /it*es1 all raw edges c>efully turn$ & /it*$ securely4 ,seams t are to come close to ! body %\ld lie p]fectly flat4 ,a r\nd seam w\ld we> out soon] by com+ into frequ5t contact ) ! wa%bo>d & iron1 besides irritat+ ! sk94 ,9 dressmak+1 unless ! /it*+ is us$ = ornam5tal purposes1 x %\ld nev] %[ on ! outside4 ,p]iods ( beautiful & dignifi$ co/ume h be5 p]iods ( f9e ne$lework--"o art lead+ to & help+ on ! production ( ! o!r4 ,sid5ote3 ,pla9 ,/it*es ,/it*es may be divid$ into pla9 & ornam5tal4 ,! pla9 /it*es are ! 7#a7 ba/+1 7#b7 runn+1 7#c7 ! runn+ & back /it*1 7#d7 half back /it*1 7#e7 back /it*1 7#f7 ov]h& or :ipp+ /it*1 7#g7 ov]ca/1 7#h7 hemm+1 & 7#i7 bl9d or slip /it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,ornam5tal ,/it*es ,! ornam5tal /it*es mo/ frequ5tly us$ are 7#a7 outl9e1 7#b7 *a91 7#c7 cat or h]r+bone1 7#d7 blanket or loop1 7#e7 fea!r1 coral or bri>1 7#f7 hem/it*+1 7#g7 ,fr5* knots1 7#h7 button hole1 & 7#i7 cross /it*4 ,except+ ! cross /it*1 ^! are all v>iations ( ! pla9 & button hole /it*es4 ,! pla9 /it*es may be us$ = ornam5tal purposes4 ,! ba/+ /it* is kn[n z ,que5 ,anne d>n$ "w4 ,! back /it*1 kn[n z se$ "w1 is us$ 9 embroid]+ lett]s & monograms4 ,! ov]h& /it* is us$ z an ornam5tal /it* = jo9+ selvages & 9 hemm+4 ,! *a9 /it*1 besides be+ ornam5tal1 makes "o ( ! be/ d>n+ /it*es1 reproduc+ ! /it* 9 knitt+4 ,! cat /it* is also useful 9 b9d+ d[n op5 seams = flannel hems1 pat*+1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,ba/+ 7#a7 ,ba/+ prop] is us$ only 9 ! prep>ation ( "w to hold ! /uff & l9+1 or any two or m p>ts ( ! "w toge!r :ile x is be+ /it*$1 none be+ left 9 ! f9i%$ g>m5t4 ,x is also us$ z a guide = sew+1 fea!r /it*+1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,tack+ ,! slant+ ba/+ /it* or tack+ is us$ 9 dressmak+ = hold+ l9+s4 ,! ne$le is po9t$ t[>ds ! work]4 ,ev5 ba/+ is us$ = hold+ sev]al ?icknesses ( clo? & if ! g>m5t is to be fitt$1 ! /it*es %\ld be plac$ r close4 ,unev5 ba/+ is us$ = hems & seams to be ma*9e /it*$4 ,sev]al %ort /it*es ) "o long "o are us$ to ba/e crape & wiry fabrics1 = ?is me?od holds !m bett] ?an /it*es ( equal l5g?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ba/+ ,,/it*es a--,ev52 b--,unev52 c--,= wiry fabrics2 d--,tack+2 e--,ov]ca/+2 f--,d\ble or tailor ov]ca/+4 ,sid5ote3 ,fa/5+ ! ,?read ,all ba/+ %\ld be fa/5$ at />t ) a knot or knot & back /it* & f9i%$ ) two or ?ree back /it*es4 ,! l5g? ( ?read may be brok5 or cut f ! spool1 b %\ld always be cut f ! "w4 ,break+ weak5s ! fa/5+ & bit+ (f soils delicate "w ) ! moi/ure f ! brea?1 to say no?+ ( ! injury to ! tee?4 ,ba/+ = l>ge "w %\ld usually be done ) ! goods ly+ flat on ! sew+ table4 ,sid5ote3 ,draw+ ,ba/+ ,?reads ,= ord9>y "w1 ba/+ ?reads %\ld be cut e few in*es & drawn out4 ,9 velvet1 e alt]nate /it* %\ld be cut & drawn out on ! "r side ) ! pile ( ! goods4 ,9 ! ba/+ = velvet :]e ! slant+ /it* is us$1 only "o end ( ! /it* t\*es ! l9e ( ! seam--! re/ is on ! outside ( ! seam4 ,silk ?read %\ld be us$ to ba/e velvet & gauze2 ! ?read %\ld be us$ = ba/+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,position ,,( ,,! ,,h&s ,,9 ,,runn+ ,sid5ote3 ,runn+ ,/it* 7#b7 ,runn+ is closely relat$ to ba/+4 ,x is n us$ = any seams t h to be> great /ra91 b = jo9+ seams 9 ?is mat]ial1 ga!r+1 tuck+1 mak+ cords1 etc4 ,! /it*es are usually ( equal l5g? on bo? sides4 ,take "o /it* 9 ! seam & hold ! goods betwe5 ! ?umb & fir/ f+] ( ea* h&1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration1 ) ! back ( ! ?imble on ! eye ( ! ne$le4 ,!n1 ) z free wri/ motion z possible1 run or %ake ! ne$le ?r\gh ! mat]ial4 ,! motion ( ! h& %\ld come f ! elb[ jo9t4 ,ga!r+1 gaug+1 cas+1 etc41 are us$ = draw+ up ! fullness ( skirts1 ruffles1 fl\nces1 etc41 into a giv5 space4 ,! runn+ /it* is us$ = ^!4 ,sid5ote3 ,ga!r+ ,= ga!r+1 ! clo? is held 9 ! same mann] z = runn+4 ,! ne$le1 ord9>ily1 ne$ n be tak5 out ( ! "w1 ! /it*es be+ pu%$ back ov] ! eye z !y are made2 b = runn+ long skirt seams 9 delicate mat]ial :i* w\ld cr9kle at ! l9e ( sew+ & r\gh5 ! seam1 ! ne$le %\ld be drawn ?r\gh & ! l9e ( sew+ smoo!d on ! ?read at ea* ne$leful ( /it*es4 ,sid5ote3 ,/rok+ ,nev] use a d\ble ?read = ga!r+1 z x is apt to knot1 b put 9 two l9es ( ga!r+ ?reads--"o a full "o-eigh? ( an in* bel[ ! o!r--& slip ! /it*es along ! ne$le z describ$ above4 ,?is me?od is a sav+ ( "t 9 ! end4 ,:5 ! ga!r+ ?reads are 91 remove ! ne$le1 place a p9 v]tically close to ! la/ /it*1 & w9d ! ?read ar\nd x a few times 9 ! =m ( a figure eight4 ,use a co>se ne$le = /rok+4 ,hold ! "w betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]s ( ! left h& ) ! ?umb on ! ga!r+ ?reads4 ,to place ! ga!rs1 put ! po9t ( ! ne$le "u ! l[] ga!r+ ?read & press ! plait or ga!r "u ! ?umb1 draw+ ! ne$le d[n1 or simply press+ on ! ne$le4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 n to scrat* or te> ! mat]ial4 ,cont9ue entirely across ! ga!rs1 putt+ ! ne$le "u ea* /it* & hold+ ! plait firmly betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]3 turn ! mat]ial & /roke ! upp] edge ( ! ga!rs4 ,sid5ote3 ,gaug+ ,! gaug+ /it* is usually long] on ! face ?an on ! back1 draws ! mat]ial up into di/9ct plaits1 mak+ x easy to dispose ( ! fullness neatly1 regul>ly & securely by ov]h&+ ! top edge ( ea* plait to ! bottom edge ( ! b&4 ,! "r side ( ! skirt & ! "r side ( ! belt are plac$ aga9/ ea* o!r & ea* ga!r ov]sew$ to ! belt4 ,! space into :i* ! mat]ial is to be ga!r$ det]m9es ! l5g? ( ! long /it*4 ,! succe$+ r[s ( /it*es %\ld be directly "u ^? ( ! fir/4 ,sid5ote3 ,runn+ & ,back ,/it* 7#c7 ,! runn+ & back /it* is made by tak+ a few runn+ /it*es1 draw+ out ! ne$le & mak+ a back /it* ov] ! la/ runn+ /it* to /r5g!n ! seam4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 n to hold ! side next ! work] too full & n to miss ! "u mat]ial1 b to take ! /it*es ev5 on bo? sides4 ,sid5ote3 ,half ,back ,/it* 7#d7 ,! half-back /it* is made by tak+ "o /it* & plac+ ! ne$le half way back1 !n br++ x out twice ! l5g? ( ! /it* & plac+ ! ne$le half way back ea* "t f :]e ! la/ /it* end$4 ,! appe>ance on ! "r side w be ( regul> space z 9 ! runn+ /it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,back ,/it* 7#e7 ,! back /it* is made by plac+ ! ne$le back to ! la/ /it*1 br++ x out once ! l5g? ( ! la/ /it*1 !n plac+ ! ne$le back into ! la/ /it*1 & s on1 mak+ ! /it*es foll[ ea* o!r )\t any space betwe54 ,?is is us$ 9 all places t are to be> great /ra94 ,illu/ration3 ,,pla9 ,,/it*es a--,runn+2 b--,runn+ & back2 c--,half back2 d--,back /it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,:ipp+ ,/it* 7#f7 ,ov]h&+1 ov]sew+1 :ipp+1 top sew+ are "o & ! same--small /it*es tak5 ov] edges1 to jo9 fold$ edges or selvages1 = sew+ b&s on ga!rs1 sew+ lace & ins]tion1 & = sew+ c>pet /rips toge!r4 ,! pieces = an ov]h& seam %\ld be p9n$ c>efully1 plac+ ! p9s at "r angles to ! edge4 ,! fold$ edges or selvages are plac$ toge!r1 ! "r side ( ! goods be+ 94 ,d n use a knot to beg9 sew+1 b leave ! knot end ( ! ?read & sew x 9 ) ! fir/ /it*es1 c>ry+ ! ?read on top ( ! seam4 ,to f9i% (f ! seam1 ov]h& back ov] ! la/ few /it*es4 ,sid5ote3 ,position 9 ,ov]h&+ ,9 sew+ ?is seam1 ! goods %\ld be held betwe5 ! ?umb & fir/ f+] ( ! left h& p>allel ) ! *e/1 n ov] ! end ( f+]4 ,po9t ! ne$le t[>ds ! left %\ld]1 ?us giv+ a slant+ /it*4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 n to puck] or draw ! seam4 ,:5 ! seam is f9i%$1 x %\ld be op5$ & press$ flat4 ,sid5ote3 ,ov]ca/+ 7#g7 ,ov]ca/+ is a slant+ /it* us$ to keep raw edges f ravell+4 ,?is /it*1 l ov]sew+1 may be work$ f "r to left or f left to "r4 ,! hem /it* & bl9d or slip /it* w be consid]$ "u hems4 ,,ornam5tal ,,/it*es ,nev] use a knot 9 any embroid]y1 b />t by runn+ a few /it*es along ! l9e :i* is to be cov]$4 ,sid5ote3 ,outl9e ,/it* 7#a7 ,! outl9e /it* is ! simple/ ( all embroid]y /it*es4 ,take a long /it* on ! surface1 ) ! ne$le po9t+ t[>ds ! *e/ 9 ! l9e to be cov]$1 & a %ort back /it* on ! "u side ( ! mat]ial4 ,! effect ( ! "u or wrong side ( ! mat]ial is exactly t ( an ord9>y back /it*4 ,! beauty ( ?is /it* dep5ds ^u its regul>ity & 9 always keep+ ! ?read on ! same side ( ! ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ornam5tal ,,/it*es a--,outl9e2 b--,*a92 c--,cat2 c'--,cat*2 d--,s+le ,fea!r2 e--,d\ble ,fea!r2 f--,tripple ,fea!r2 g--,modifi$ ,fea!r2 h--,d\ble ,fea!r ) ,knots2 i--,fr5* ,knots & ,outl9e2 j--,h]r+ ,bone2 k--,fancy ,fea!r2 l--,cat ,/it* ) ,fr5* ,knots4 ,sid5ote3 ,*a9 ,/it* 7#b7 ,! *a9 /it* :5 p]fectly done %\ld look l ! /it* made by a s+le-?read ma*9e4 ,?is /it* is made by tak+ ! ?read t[>d ! work]1 & be=e ! ne$le is drawn out ( ! clo? ! ?read is held by ! ?umb "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 z 9 a buttonhole1 mak+ a loop4 ,! ne$le is ins]t$ 9 ! la/ loop = ! next /it*4 ,! *a9 /it* is us$ 9 mod]n embroid]y z an outl9e & = d>n+1 b 9 old embroid]y1 ! outl9e & *a9 /it*es 7 us$ = fill+ z well4 ,!y are f\nd 9 ,p]sian1 ,indian1 & ,italian ,r5aissance "w4 ,l ! fea!r /it*1 ! *a9 /it* is work$ t[>ds ! work]4 ,sid5ote3 ,cat ,/it* 7#c7 ,! cat /it* or h]r+bone /it* is an alt]nate slant+ back /it*1 ! ne$le be+ plac$ fir/ to ! "r & !n to ! left4 ,?is /it* mu/ be work$ ev5ly to be effective4 ,x is us$ to f9i% flannel seams & hems1 fa/5 d[n l9+s1 op5$ seams1 & canvas fac+s & fea!rbone1 9 mill9]y--9 fact1 ?is /it* is "o ( ! mo/ useful 9 sew+4 ,! cat* /it* is a v>iation ( ! cat /it*4 ,in/ead ( po9t+ ! ne$le t[>ds ! *e/1 ! /it* is tak5 p>allel ) ! *e/4 ,x is us$ = ab\t ! same purposes z ! cat /it*4 ,z ) ! outl9e /it*1 ! cat /it* is work$ f ! work]4 ,sid5ote3 ,loop ,/it* 7#d7 ,blanket or loop /it*1 us$ to ornam5t ! edge ( blankets1 etc41 & = f9i%+ ! edge ( /ock9et or web mat]ial1 is work$ f left to "r1 ! edge ( ! mat]ial be+ held t[>ds ! work]4 ,/>t ) ?ree or f\r runn+ /it*es along ! edge s ! l9e ( /it*+ w cov] !m4 ,ins]t ! ne$le ! desir$ wid? f ! edge1 draw x t[>ds y d[n ov] ! ?read1 be+ c>eful n to draw ! ?read too tightly ov] ! edge ( ! flannel4 ,fa/5 ! ?read by tak+ runn+ /it*es "u ! la/ blanket /it* on ! wrong side4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hem ,,/it*+ a--,position ( ,ne$le2 a'--,f9i%$ ,hem ,/it*2 b--,ladd] ,/it*2 c--,example ( ,drawn ,"w ,f9i%$ ) ,loop & ,cat ,/it*es4 ,sid5ote3 ,fea!r ,/it* 7#e7 ,s+le1 d\ble1 & triple fea!r or coral /it*es may be made v ornam5tal & are us$ 9 all k9ds ( sew+ & on all mat]ials4 ,!y are always made t[>ds ! work]1 ! /it*es be+ tak5 alt]nately to ! "r & left ( ! l9e ( ! design4 ,! ?read %\ld always be c>ri$ "u ! ne$le z 9 a buttonhole /it*4 ,! design may be v>i$ by tak+ ! /it*es diagonally or /raight1 by mak+ !m close or sep>at$1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,hem ,/it* 7#f7 ,hem/it*+ is us$ = ornam5t 9 mak+ hems & tucks4 ,! fir/ /ep 9 hem/it*+ is ! draw+ ( ?reads4 ,rubb+ ! clo? along ! l9e ( ?reads to be drawn w make ! draw+ easi] if ! clo? is siz$4 ,aft] ! ?reads are drawn1 ! hem is turn$ & ba/$ ev5 ) ! l[e/ edge ( ! drawn space4 ,ins]t ! ne$le into ! edge ( ! hem & mat]ial1 tak+ up a clu/] ( ?reads br+ ! ?read "u ! ne$le to =m a buttonhole /it* or make a simple /it* 9 ! edge ( ! fold4 ,! numb] ( ?reads drawn & ! numb] 9 a clu/] mu/ be det]m9$ by ! co>s5ess or f95ess ( ! mat]ial1 ! great] numb] be+ drawn & tak5 9 f9e mat]ial4 ,!re are sev]al me?ods ( hem/it*+1 b ! results are ab\t ! same4 ,illu/ration3 ,,embroid]y ,,/it*es ,eyelet ,embroid]y1 ,embroid]y ,button ,hole1 ,flat ,sat9 ,/it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,fr5* ,knots 7#g7 ,fr5* knots are us$ 9 connection ) o!r /it*es = bord]s enclos$ 9 outl9e & *a9 /it*es1 9 initials1 c5t]s ( fl[]s1 & z a fill+-9 /it*4 ,! simple/ me?od is ( tak+ a small back /it*1 br++ ! ?read f ! eye ( ! ne$le "u ! po9t f "r to left & draw+ ! ne$le p]p5dicul>ly f ! clo?4 ,place ! ne$le back ( ! knot & br+ ! po9t out 9 ! place :]e ! next knot is to be made4 ,! size ( ! ?read w det]m9e ! size ( ! knot4 ,sid5ote3 ,embroid]y ,buttonhole 7#h7 ,! embroid]y buttonhole /it* has _m possibilities & _m v>iations4 ,x is work$ f left to "r in/ead ( f "r to left z 9 a buttonhole4 ,! ?read f ! "w is c>ri$ "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le f left to "r1 j ! rev]se ( ! buttonhole4 ,?is /it* is us$ on flannel & 9 embroid]y ( all k9ds2 x may be padd$ or work$ flat & ! /it*es may be tak5 a di/ance ap>t or ne> toge!r4 ,sid5ote3 ,cross ,/it* 7#i7 ,! cross /it* is work$ on l951 scrim1 canvas1 or any op5-me%$ mat]ial4 ,if done on a flat1 smoo? surface1 x w be necess>y to "w ov] canvas1 aft]w>ds draw+ out ! canvas ?reads4 ,! canvas %\ld be well ba/$ on ! mat]ial1 ! w>p ?reads ( ! canvas ly+ p]fectly /raight on a l9e ) ! w>p ?reads ( ! mat]ial on :i* ! patt]n is work$4 ,! /it*es %\ld always run ! same way4 ,if ! fir/ gr\nd /it*es are made f left to "r1 f bottom t[>ds ! top1 ! cross /it*es %\ld be made f "r to left f ! top t[>ds ! bottom4 ,all ! gr\nd /it*es run "o way & ! cross /it*es 9 ! opposite way4 ,?is /it* is us$ = m>k+ table l951 und]we>1 & embroid]y designs4 ,:5 m>k+ l95 & unl9$ "w1 make ! "u side v neat by runn+ ! ?read "u ! /it*es already made1 in/ead ( tak+ a long /it* :5 beg9n+ 9 ano!r "p ( ! lett] or design4 ,sid5ote3 ,sat9 ,/it* 7#aj7 ,! sat9 /it* is an ov] & ov] /it* & is us$ on mat]ials ( all k9ds = m>k+ l951 etc4 ,! padd+ is ! fir/ /ep & %\ld be done 9 long ev5 /it*es plac$ closely & ov] "o ano!r 9 ! c5t]4 ,! size & proportions ( ! figure or lett]s det]m9e ! size ( ! ?read4 ,f9e ?read gives ! be/ results4 ,! outl9e %\ld be run twice2 ?is keeps ! edge firm4 ,an ev5 d>n+ or ba/+ /it*es1 *a9 /it*es or outl9e /it* may be us$ if ! space is n too small4 ,! padd+ may be work$ 9 an embroid]y hoop to keep x smoo? & ev54 ,scallops may be padd$ 9 ! same way or work$ flat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,embroid]y ,,button ,,hole ,,& ,,blanket ,,/it*es ,scallops ,outl9$ & ,padd$4 ,9 l>ge figures ! /it*es are laid closely & exactly p>allel ! entire l5g? ( ! =m4 ,!y may be /raight across or at an angle1 b ! "o slant mu/ be ma9ta9$ ?r\gh\t4 ,9 small curv$ figures1 ! /it*es may be plac$ m closely at ! inn] edge & spread slightly at ! out] edge4 ,9 flat "w :]e ! leaf or petal is l>ge1 two or ?ree /it*es tak5 9 ! clo?1 back ( ! face /it*1 holds !m ev5 & prev5ts misplacem5t 9 laund]+4 7,all embroid]y %\ld be iron$ on ! wrong side47 ,illu/ration3 ,,arr[ ,,head1 ,,d\ble ,,arr[ ,,head ,,& ,,cr[',s ,,foot4 ,sid5ote3 ,eyelet ,embroid]y ,eyelet embroid]y is a simple ov] & ov] /it* =m+ a smoo?1 r\nd edge4 ,l sat9 /it*1 all outl9es are run ) an ev5 d>n+ /it*1 except ! v small eyelet holes1 made ) a /iletto4 ,long or oval op5+s mu/ be cut ?r\gh ! c5t]4 ,sid5ote3 ,%ad[ ,embroid]y ,%ad[ embroid]y is work$ on ! wrong side ( ?9 mat]ial1 us+ ! cat /it*4 ,! outl9e ( ! design only %[s on ! "r side1 ! body ( ! design be+ se5 dimly ?r\gh ! mat]ial4 ,sid5ote3 ,arr[ ,heads ,! arr[ head & cr['s foot are ornam5tal fa/5+s us$ 9 f9e tailor+ z end+s = seams1 tucks1 plaits1 & at corn]s4 ,!y are made z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4 ,m]c]iz$ cotton1 l951 or any ( ! embroid]y silks c be us$ = ^! /it*es1 9 all sizes & colors1 or !y c be work$ ) ord9>y ?read1 cotton or l951 sew+ silk1 or twi/4 ,cotton ?read we>s bett] ?an l954 ,,hems ,sid5ote3 ,fold+ ,hems ,a hem is a fold ( goods twice fold$ to protect a raw edge4 ,! fir/ turn or fold ( ! hem is ! mo/ important4 ,x %\ld be /raight & ev51 fold$ to a ?read1 = ^u x dep5ds ! beauty ( ! hem4 ,! hem %\ld always be turn$ t[>ds ! work] & creas$ firmly1 b nev] pleat$ along ! fold4 ,fir/ crease ! n>r[ fold1 !n crease ! second fold ! desir$ wid?1 m>k+ by a measure & ba/e n too ne> ! edge4 ,! fir/ fold along ! wo( ?reads %\ld be at lea/ "o-f\r? ( an in* 9 wid?1 z ! wo( ?reads give or /ret* m ?an ! w>p ?reads2 o!rwise x w n lie flat4 ,sid5ote3 ,sew+ ,hems ,9 sew+ ! hem1 ! ne$le %\ld take up only ! edge to be hemm$ d[n & j en\gh to hold on ! clo? or l9+4 ,9 :ite "w ! /it*es %\ld be f9e1 %[+ z little z possible4 ,sid5ote3 ,bias ,hem ,all bias & curv$ edges %\ld h ! fir/ fold ba/$4 ,9 clo? or silk ?is fir/ ba/+ ?read %\ld mat* ! mat]ial & n be tak5 out4 ,sid5ote3 ,fac$ hem ,a fac+ or fac$ hem is also us$ z a protection to ! edge ( a g>m5t4 ,a true bias or fitt$ fac+ %\ld be us$ = a fac+ if ! edges ( ! g>m5t are curv$4 ,an ext5sion hem is "o 9 :i* ! :ole wid? ( ! hem is us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hemm+ a--,%[s me?od ( cutt+ to d away ) a clumsey corn]4 ,sid5ote3 ,slip-,/it*+ ,slip-/it*+ or invisible hemm+ is done on silk1 wool1 & ?ick mat]ial4 ,! hem is press$ ) an iron1 a /it* z f9e z possible is tak5 on ! surface ( ! clo? & ! ne$le slipp$ "u & ?r\gh ! fir/ fold1 draw+ ! ?read lightly4 ,! ne$le & ?read us$ 9 ?is /it* mu/ be v f9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mit]$ ,,corn]s ,me?od ( ,fold+ & ,cutt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,roll$ ,,hem ,,& ,,:ipp$ ,,ga!rs a--,roll$ ,hem ,ga!r$2 b--,:ipp$ ,roll2 c--,d\ble ,:ipp$2 d--,roll ,hemm$2 e--,ga!rs ,sew$ to ,b&4 ,sid5ote3 ,roll$ ,hem ,roll$ hem & :ipp$ ga!rs are made ) ! wrong side ( ! mat]ial next ! work]4 ,make a t9y roll ( ! edge t[>ds ! work]1 us+ ! left ?umb & index f+]1 roll+ an in* at a "t 7& no m7 be=e hemm+4 ,make f9e1 ev5 /it*es 9 ! roll & goods4 ,keep ! hem p]fectly r\nd1 firm & n too l>ge4 ,?is hem is adapt$ only to f9e mat]ial & ! edge across ! w>p is ! m easily roll$4 ,sid5ote3 ,:ipp$ ,ga!rs ,to ga!r1 :ip ! roll$ hem )\t hemm+1 mak+ ov]ca/+ /it*es t[>ds y1 ev5 & n too f9e4 ,use co>s] ?read ?an = hemm+4 ,?is ga!r+ ?read is us$ to hold d[n ! edge z well z = draw+ up ! ga!rs & x n to be tak5 out1 z is ! ord9>y ga!r+ ?read4 ,x %\ld n cat* 9 ! roll4 ,h ! ?read ! l5g? ( ! pla9 space to :i* x is to be sew$ & regulate ! ga!rs z y d ! ga!r+4 ,aft] ! edge is roll$1 :ipp$ & ga!r$1 x is sew$ to ! g>m5t by ! little scallops or rais$ p>ts made by ! :ipp+4 ,?is is us$ only = mak+ ruffles or ga!r+ on v f9e h& "w4 ,sid5ote3 ,fr5* ,hem ,! ,fr5* hem is us$ = table l954 ,fold z 9 an ord9>y hem1 !n fold ! hem back on ! "r side & ov]h& ! edge =m$1 tak+ f9e /it*es4 ,press ! hem flat f ! "r side4 ,sid5ote3 ,flannel ,hems ,flannel hems %\ld n be twice fold$1 = !re w be a ridge in/ead ( a flat surface aft] ! g>m5t has be5 laund]$1 ow+ to ! felt+ prop]ties ( ! wool4 ,hems on flannel %\ld n be /it*$ by h& or ma*9e1 b cat /it*$ on ! wrong side & f9i%$ on ! "r side ) any ornam5tal /it*4 ,hems 9 infants' clo?+ may be turn$ on ! "r side & made ornam5tal by fea!r /it*+4 ,no selvage %\ld ev] be us$ on a hem4 ,! selvage is m closely wov5 & w draw or puck] 9 laundry+4 ,,tucks ,tucks are folds made on ?9 mat]ial = ornam5t1 to %ort5 or to provide = l5g!n+ a g>m5t4 ,if done by h&1 a c>d measure is pref]able to a tape measure = m>k+ ! space & wid? ( ! tucks4 ,! folds %\ld be creas$ to a ?read1 ba/$ & sew$ ) a runn+ /it* %[+ b little on ! face1 or /it*$ on ! ma*9e4 ,f9e ?read %\ld be us$4 ,,seams ,a seam is ! l9e ( sew+ t jo9s mat]ial2 x may be pla9 or ornam5tal4 ,! mo/ important are ! ov]h&1 fell$1 ,fr5*1 slot1 lapp$1 flannel1 & bead$4 ,! ov]h& seam is describ$ "u ! ov]h& /it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,fell$ ,seam ,a fell is a seam hemm$ d[n to ! goods to protect ! raw edge4 ,x is usually made 9 night dresses1 draw]s1 corset cov]s1 etc4 ,ba/e ) ! piece f>!/ f ! work] ext5d$ "o-eigh? ( an in* beyond ! o!r & sew$ ) ! gra9 ( ! goods1 beg9n+ at ! wide/ "p ( any bias4 ,press ! seam ) ! nail on ! "r side1 turn ! wide edge d[n flat to cov] ! raw edge & l9e ( sew+1 & hem flat ei!r by h& or ma*9e4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 to keep ! seam flat on ! "r z well z on ! wrong side4 ,if ! fell+ is done ) ! ma*9e hemm]1 ! wide edge mu/ be on ! opposite side4 ,! seam may be ba/$ ) bo? edges ev5 if pref]r$1 cutt+ (f "o edge aft] /it*+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seams a--,full2 b--,fr5* ,scre54 ,illu/ration3 ,,bead$ ,,& ,,tap$ ,,seams ,a--,tape ba/$ on "o edge1 & ! o!r edge turn$ & /it*$2 ,b--,bead+ :ipp$ to ! fold$ edges2 a--,/it*$ hem2 b--,hem f9i%$ ) fea!r /it*+4 ,sid5ote3 ,fr5* ,seam ,a ,fr5* seam is sew$ twice--fir/ on ! "r side z ne> ! raw edge z possible4 ,cut (f all fray$ edges1 turn ! mat]ial by fold+ on ! seam or l9e ( sew+1 s ! seam is fold$ inside & ! second sew+ is on ! wrong side bel[ ! raw edges4 ,?is is n a good seam = und]we> worn next ! body1 z x leaves a ridge on ! wrong side1 b x is useful = skirts ( ?9 mat]ial1 etc4 ,x is m easily made ?an a fell4 ,sid5ote3 ,bead$ ,seam ,bead$ seams us$ = f9e :ite "w h a l9e ( bead+ ov]h&$ betwe5 gores1 hems1 or ga!rs4 ,! hem along ! seam %\ld be fold$ on ! "r side1 leav+ a p]fectly flat surface to iron on ! wrong side1 & f9i%$ ) an ornam5tal /it* cov]+ ! hem4 ,sid5ote3 ,slot ,seams ,! slot seam1 us$ 9 clo? dresses & jackets1 requires exact ba/+ ) silk or v f9e ?read ) small1 ev5 /it*es4 ,if a co>se ?read is us$1 ! mat]ial w be badly m>k$4 ,aft] ba/+1 press ! seam op5 z if x _h be5 /it*$1 & ba/e ! /rap or "u /rip ( ! dress mat]ial 7:i* has be5 cut p]fectly /raight & ev57 ov] ! wrong side ( ! seam1 hav+ ! c5t] ( ! seam on ! c5t] ( ! /rap4 ,/it* any wid? desir$ beyond ! c5t] ?r\gh ! ?ree ?icknesses4 ,?is w hold ! seam 9 position4 ,n[ remove ! ba/+s f ! seam & ! slot effect is complete4 ,if desir$1 !re may be a d\ble r[ ( /it*+1 an extra r[ on ! edge ( ! fold or plait4 ,^! seams may be f9i%$ at ! bottom ) arr[ heads or /it*$ designs4 ,! l9es ( ma*9e /it*+ %\ld n end )\t "s ornam5t to appe> to hold ! plait4 ,illu/ration3 ,,slot ,,seam ,,f9i%$ ,,) ,,arr[ ,,head ,illu/ration3 ,,flannel ,,seams ,,& ,,hems ,f9i%$ ) v>i\s ,ornam5tal ,/it*es4 ,sid5ote3 ,lapp$ ,seam ,9 ! lapp$ seam ! edges are fold$ ea* )9 ! o!r or "o ov] ! o!r s t bo? sides are alike4 ,if made ( heavy mat]ial1 ! raw edges are left unturn$2 9 musl9 or l95 ! edges are inturn$1 lapp$1 ba/$ & ! hem /it*$ on bo? edges or hemm$ d[n on bo? sides by h&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plackets ,a--,made by fold+ a wide hem ov] a n>r[ "o2 ,b--,tape fac$ sew+ = ! purpose ( a gusset4 ,me?od ( fold+ ! tape %[n4 ,sid5ote3 ,flannel ,seams ,flannel seams %\ld be /it*$1 op5$ & press$ flat1 ei!r on ! "r or wrong side ( ! g>m5t4 ,if on ! "r side1 taffeta ribbon %\ld be ba/$ ov] ! seam1 s t ! raw edges ( flannel w n %[1 & cat /it*$ or buttonhole /it*$ on bo? sides ( ! ribbon1 or any fancy /it*--n too long--may be us$4 ,?is is ! ,doro?y seam4 ,= ! seam on ! wrong side1 ! edges %\ld be cat /it*$ ) f9e ?read4 ,any ornam5tal /it* may be us$ on ! "r side ( ! seam4 ,always press flannel seams & hems be=e f9i%+4 ,flannel %\ld nev] be hem /it*$4 ,,plackets ,a placket is an op5+ 9 a g>m5t all[+ x to be put on4 ,! simple/ placket is made by cutt+ a slit & fold+ a wide hem ov] a n>r[ "o turn$ on ! face ( ! goods2 ?is makes a pleat bel[ ! v5t4 ,!re %\ld be a d\ble l9e ( /it*+ across ! bottom ( ! hem to /r5g!n ! placket4 ,sid5ote3 ,tape ,fac$ ,placket ,! tape fac$ placket is /rong] & may be us$ 9 *ildr5's draw]s1 etc41 9 place ( a gusset to /r5g!n ! end ( ! op5+4 ,a s+le piece ( tape fold$ back z = a loop is /it*$ along all edges1 mak+ an op5+ )\t a lap4 ,?is (f]s z mu* resi/ance z a gusset & is m quickly done4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fac$ ,,placket ,a--,wrong side1 op5$1 %[+ tape2 ,b--,"r side %[+ on-set piece2 aa & bb ! same ends ( ! tape2 #a-b me?od ( fold+ & cutt+ end ( on-set piece4 ,sid5ote3 ,fac$ ,placket ,9 a ?ird k9d ( placket1 ! op5+ is fac$ ) a cont9u\s piece ( tape on bo? sides & f9i%$ ) a piece ( mat]ial on ! outside4 ,see illu/ration4 ,?is makes a /rong & simple placket4 ,:5 a tape _c be us$1 a hem or fac+ may be made on ! "u side ( ! op5+ & a fac+ on ! upp] side1 ov] :i* ! on-set piece is /it*$4 ,! on-set piece & fac+ may be cut f "o piece1 b ! fitt+ is m tr\blesome4 ,9 figur$ goods1 ! piece set on %\ld mat* ! patt]n exactly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,skirt ,,placket ,,) ,,lap ,a simple placket = und]we> is made f a s+le /rip ( ! goods put on l an ext5sion hem4 ,on draw]s x may be turn$ 9 at ! buttonhole end1 b n /it*$ d[n except at ! b&4 ,! placket ( a skirt %\ld h an und]lap ext5d+ well bel[ ! op5+4 ,,sew+ ,,on ,,b&s ,sid5ote3 ,ga!r+ ,divide ! top ( unhemm$ edge ( ! g>m5t 9 halves & m>k ) a cross /it*1 not* or p94 ,ga!r f ! placket to ! middle ( ! front gore1 if a skirt1 apron1 or dress4 ,take a new ?read & ga!r ! rema9d]4 ,put 9 a second ga!r+ ?read "o-eigh? to "o-f\r? ( an in* bel[ ! fir/4 ,two ga!r+ ?reads are bett] ?an "o & !y %\ld be long] ?an ! l5g? ( space to be ga!r$4 ,/roke or lay ! ga!rs above & bel[ ! ?reads4 ,divide ! b& & p9 ! middle to ! c5t] ( ! g>m5t1 plac+ ! "r side ( ! b& on ! wrong side ( ! g>m5t4 ,p9 9 ! middle & at ea* end1 secure ! ga!r+ ?reads by w9d+ ar\nd ! p91 adju/ ! ga!rs1 & ba/e betwe5 ! ga!r+ ?reads4 ,/it* j bel[ ! l9e ( ba/+4 ,fold ! b& ov] on ! "r side1 press1 ba/e ov] ! l9e ( /it*+1 press aga91 !n /it* on ! "r side aft] hav+ turn$ 9 bo? ends & ov]-sew$4 ,turn ! top ( ! b& ov] on ! "r side "o-eigh? or "o-f\r? ( an in* & /it* securely4 ,?is upp] fold keeps ! edge f we>+ & /ret*+ & is a /ay = *ildr5's skirts & draw]s :]e button holes are us$ & s]ves z a f9i% = ! top ( ! b&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,f9i%es a--,bias ,fac+2 b--,b& on ,ga!rs2 c--,cord$ edge4 ,= flannel1 pleat+ or ga!rs may be us$ to put fullness into a b&4 ,two r[s ( ga!r+ ?reads %\ld be us$ & ! /it*es %\ld n be too f9e4 ,! b& %\ld be made ( cotton or at lea/ l9$ ) x to avoid clums9ess & prev5t %r9k+4 ,ruffles are set 9 hems1 etc41 9 ! same mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,draw ,,tape ,,f9i% ,,= ,,"u ,,skirt ,sid5ote3 ,draw+ ,tapes ,9 f9i%+ ! top ( an und]skirt1 _m l to disp5se ) ! placket & fitt$ b&4 ,?is may be done by us+ draw+ tapes at ! back4 ,! upp] edge is fac$ ) a piece ( mat]ial :i* %\ld be bias 9 front to accommodate x to ! curve1 b may be /raight across ! back4 ,"w a button hole at ea* side ( ! back1 ins]t a tape ?r\gh "o button hole & draw x ov] an in* beyond ! opposite "o & fa/5 securely by two l9es ( /it*+ across ! tape4 ,a second tape is put ?r\gh ! o!r button hole & fa/5$ 9 ! same way4 ,by pull+ ! tape on ea* side ! fullness may be adju/$4 ,sid5ote3 ,bias ,fac+s ,all fac+s ar\nd curves1 su* z arm holes & neck1 %\ld be a true bias :i* is cut by hold+ ! w>p ?reads diagonally across ! wo( ?reads4 ,^! /rips = fac+s1 pip+s1 ruffles1 etc41 %\ld be cut exactly ev5 9 wid?4 ,all b&s1 ruffles1 etc41 ( s]ge1 twill$1 or diagonal mat]ials %\ld be cut across ! twill & n ) x1 9 ord] to h ! ruffle hang well4 ,,fa/5+s ,! /&>d fa/5+s are buttons & button holes1 hooks & eyes or h& made loops1 lac+s ?r\gh r+s & eyelet holes1 loops ov] buttons1 & fancy frogs1 clasps1 /uds1 ball & socket1 notta-hooks1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,mak+ ,button ,holes ,button holes %\ld be c>efully measur$ & m>k$ be=e cutt+4 ,!y %\ld be a little long] ?an ! diamet] ( ! button = flat buttons & "o & "o-qu>t] ! diamet] = r\nd buttons4 ,hav+ decid$ ^u ! di/ance ap>t !y are to be plac$1 cut a m>k] f a piece ( c>dbo>d & measure (f ! space1 m>k+ ) p9s1 ,fr5* *alk1 p5cil1 or ?read4 ,! di/ance f ! edge 7"o-f\r? in*71 z well z ! l5g? ( ! button hole may also be m>k$ ) ! c>d4 ,! scissors %\ld be %>p1 ! h& mu/ be /eady1 & ! cut %\ld be made ) "o firm sla%1 n ) two or ?ree j]ks4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 t ea* button hole is ( ! same l5g?4 ,! goods %\ld be cut to a ?read1 = x is impossible to make a neat buttonhole if x is improp]ly cut4 ,9 cutt+ a r\nd end buttonhole = ?ick goods1 a pun* may be us$ = ! end1 aft] :i* ! rema9d] ( ! buttonhole is cut directly on a l9e ) ! c5t] ( ! circle4 ,! same m>k] may be us$ to m>k ! position = ! buttons4 ,all m>k+s = buttons & buttonholes1 or = hooks & eyes1 %\ld be made at "o "t4 ,sid5ote3 ,ov]ca/+ ,buttonholes ,aft] cutt+1 ! button holes are ov]ca/4 ,?is %\ld always be done directly aft] cutt+1 especially if ! goods ravels easily1 o!rwise x w be impossible to "w a neat buttonhole4 ,ov]ca/+ %\ld be done ) v f9e ?read 7,no4 #aej = :ite goods71 split silk = wool & silk4 ,?ree ov]ca/ /it*es on ea* side are suffici5t = an ord9>y size buttonhole4 ,a v good plan to foll[ 9 cutt+ a buttonhole 9 heavy mat]ial or mat]ial t frays easily is to *alk ! position & l5g? ( ! buttonhole1 !n /it* a r[ ( ma*9e /it*+ ea* side ( ?is m>k1 ! two r[s be+ a little m ?an "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t4 ,?is holds all ! ?icknesses toge!r & ! buttonhole may !n be cut easily4 ,x also s]ves z a guide 9 work+ ! buttonhole /it*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,buttons1 ,,button ,,holes1 ,,eyelets1 ,,loops ,! buttonhol+ is begun at ! inn] side ( ! slit4 ,always place ! knot on ! outside ( ! g>m5t a %ort di/ance to ! "r ( ! buttonhole1 leav+ a long /it* und]nea? :i* c be cut (f :5 ! buttonhole is f9i%$4 ,a buttonhole %\ld be complet$ ) "o ?read if possible z x is difficult to m5d ! ?read securely & neatly4 ,lett] ,d = twi/ is usually employ$4 ,sid5ote3 ,mak+ ,buttonholes ,ins]t ! ne$le 9 ! edge ( ! mat]ial & :5 half way ?r\gh1 take ! two ?reads at ! eye ( ! ne$le1 br++ !m t[>ds y at ! "r & "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 & draw ! ?read f y1 mak+ ! purl or loop /it* directly on ! edge ( ! buttonhole4 ,! /it*es %\ld be ab\t ! wid? ( ! ne$le ap>t to all[ = ! purl4 ,be c>eful to complete ea* /it* ) a uni=m movem5t s t ! l9e w be p]fectly /raight & n wavy4 ,! /it*es are plac$ m closely toge!r 9 ! r\nd$ end ( ! buttonhole :]e ! *ief we> comes4 ,sid5ote3 ,/ay+ ,_m work]s1 p>ticul>ly tailors1 always /ay or b> ar\nd a buttonhole be=e work+4 ,?is may be done ) sev]al ?reads ( twi/ or ) a cord s t ! work$ edge ( ! buttonhole w be firm & di/9ct4 ,tailors usually use a cord z ?is makes ! edges heavi]4 ,x is always well to /ay buttonholes 9 heavy mat]ial z x /r5g!ns !m v mu* & improves _! appe>ance4 ,sid5ote3 ,b> ,tack ,:5 ! buttonhole has be5 work$ all ar\nd1 ! end is complet$ ) a b> tack made by tak+ two or ?ree /it*es across ! end ( ! buttonhole1 draw+ ! edges clos] toge!r4 ,?is b> is cov]$ ) buttonhole /it*es work$ close toge!r4 ,! ?read is fa/5$ securely on ! wrong side4 ,sid5ote3 ,l>ge ,buttonholes ,aft] v l>ge buttonholes are f9i%$1 _! /raight edges %\ld be closely ba/$ toge!r by an ov] & ov] /it* & !n press$ "u a damp clo?4 ,be=e !y are dry1 a bodk9 or /iletto %\ld be pu%$ vigor\sly up ?r\gh ea* eyelet until t op5+ becomes p]fectly r\nd & ! /it*es on its edges are regul> & di/9ct4 ,:5 ! ba/+ is remov$1 ! buttonhole w be symmetrical 9 appe>ance4 ,buttonholes :i* are to be> a /ra9 are cut 9 ! direction ( ! pull1 b sometimes !y are cut 9 ! opposite direction1 z = a %irt wai/4 ,su* a buttonhole may be complet$ ) a b> tack on ea* end4 ,sid5ote3 ,sew+ on ,buttons ,ord9>y buttons %\ld nev] be sew$ d[n tightly1 b ! ?read %\ld be loose s t x may be w\nd ar\nd at ! end1 ?us protect+ ! hold+ ?reads f we>4 ,! %ank prev5ts ! buttonhole f be+ cr[d$ out ( %ape4 ,loose sew+ c mo/ easily be done by plac+ a p9 or ne$le across ! top ( ! button & sew+ ov] x4 ,if a button is mu* concav$1 ! p9 may be plac$ und]nea?4 ,! p9 is remov$ be=e w9d+4 ,9 sew+ on a f\r-hole button1 ! /it*es %\ld be made symmetrically1 ei!r p>allel or cross$1 b n bo?4 ,if p>allel or 9 a two-hol$ button ! /it*es %\ld run 9 ! l9e ( ! buttonhole4 ,! ?read %\ld always be fa/5$ at ! beg9n+ & at ! end ( ! "w4 ,place ! knot ^u ! outside ( ! g>m5t :]e x may be cut (f :5 ! button is sew$ securely4 ,! knot is sometimes plac$ "u ! button4 ,sid5ote3 ,cloak ,buttons ,9 sew+ buttons on a cloak or coat an extra /rip ( canvas or silesia ov] ! canvas int]l9+ %\ld be plac$ ! entire l5g? ( ! button+ = /r5g?4 ,?is %\ld be appli$ be=e ! "w on ! g>m5t is too f> advanc$ & if cut suffici5tly wide1 w all[ any slight alt]ation4 ,! sew+ %\ld g ?r\gh ! canvas fac+ & /ay1 b n ?r\gh ! "u side or fac+ ( ! mat]ial4 ,9 sew+ buttons on bodices a tape %\ld be sew$ ov] ! front ba/+ = a /ay4 ,if suffici5t mat]ial has n be5 all[$ = a lap1 ?is %\ld be add$1 z a lap is necess>y "u ! op5+ ( su* buttonholes4 ,buttons may be sew$ ?r\gh l9+ hav+ a small button on ! wrong side4 ,?is me?od prev5ts ! clo? f te>+ & makes an ornam5tal f9i% z well z a sub/antial "o4 ,buttons :i* are suppli$ ) wire %anks %\ld be sew$ d[n firmly z ! %ank already provid$ p]mits ! buttons to set up well f ! mat]ial4 ,!y %\ld be plac$ 9 su* a position t ! wire %ank w run p>allel ) ! buttonhole & n cross x4 ,sid5ote3 ,hooks & ,eyes ,! position = hooks & eyes %\ld be m>k$ be=e sew+ on4 ,! simple/1 ?\gh lea/ desirable1 me?od ( sew+-on ^! fa/5+s is to place ! eye at ! edge ( ! seam or fac+ & ! hook suffici5tly f> back f ! opposite side to give a lap4 ,a mu* pref]able me?od is to ba/e a bias /rip ( cr9ol9e along ! positions to be occupi$ by ! hooks & eyes2 ?is gives /r5g? to ! f9i%4 ,suffici5t mat]ial %\ld be all[$ = fold+ ov] ! %anks aft] ! hooks & eyes h be5 sew$ on1 or !y may be cov]$ ) silk ribbon1 slipp+ ! edge "u ! beak ( ea* hook & !n cat/it*$ 9 position4 ,! hooks & eyes are sew$ securely ?r\gh ! cr9ol9e & "o ?ickness1 b ! /it*es %\ld n %[ on ! outside4 ,ov] & ov] /it*es are tak5 ?r\gh ! small r+s 9 ! l9e ( ! full & aga9 on ea* b> ( ! eye & on ! %ank ( ! hook s t !y may be held 9 position securely4 ,9 _m cases1 x is advisable to h an und]lap ( ! mat]ial4 ,?is %\ld be slip-/it*$ 9 position on ! g>m5t aft] ! eyes h be5 sew$ 9 place4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hooks ,,& ,,eyes ,sew$ on tape1 ,%anks cov]$ ) taffeta tape & ) fold ( ! goods4 ,sid5ote3 ,eyelets ,eyelet holes are made ) a /iletto :i* =ces ! ?reads aside1 b does n cut !m4 ,! edge is f9i%$ ) ov] & ov] /it*es plac$ closely toge!r1 or ) a buttonhole /it* mak+ ! purl on ! out] edge ( ! /it*es4 ,loops are made by buttonhol+ v closely ov] sev]al f\ndation ?reads1 mak+ ! purl on ! outside edge4 ,! ne$le may be run "u ! loop eye fir/ if pref]r$4 ,,pat*+ ,sid5ote3 ,und]set ,pat* ,) ! und]set pat* h ! "p to be pat*$ press$ smoo?1 ba/e ! pat* on ! wrong side ( ! g>m5t be=e cutt+ out ! worn place4 7,if ! g>m5t or article to be m5d$ is worn or fad$ & %runk5 by laund]+1 boil ! piece 9 soap1 soda & wat] to fade ! pat*1 if ( cotton or l9547 ,aft] ba/+1 cut away all ! worn clo?1 mak+ a squ>e or oblong hole4 ,cut to a ?read4 ,cut ea* corn]1 diagonally1 "o-eigh? or "o-qu>t] ( an in*1 turn all f\r edges ( ! g>m5t t[>ds ! wrong side4 ,beg9 at ! c5t] ( "o side & hem all ar\nd ! squ>e1 tak+ slant+ ev5 /it*es1 n too close toge!r4 ,remove ! ba/+1 trim ! edges ( ! pat*1 press ! pat* on ! wrong side & cat* /it* to ! g>m5t4 ,?is %[s less on ! "r side & does n make a h>d l9e z if ! pat* 7 turn$ back on ! edge4 ,if ! clo? has a patt]n or /ripe1 mat* x p]fectly1 hav+ ! w>p ?reads ( bo? runn+ ! same way4 ,cut bo? hole & pat* squ>e4 ,an oval or r\nd pat* is unworkmanlike & does n we> well4 ,keep ! corn]s squ>e & hem d[n well4 ,! object ( press+ is to keep bo? g>m5t & pat* flat & ev54 ,flannel pat*es %\ld be cat-/it*$ on ! "r side4 ,no flannel edges %\ld ev] be inturn$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,und]set ,,pat*1 ,,"r ,,side1 ,,edge ,,turn$ ,,& ,,hemm$ ,,to ,,pat* ,illu/ration3 ,,wrong ,,side ,,( ,,pat*1 ,,cat ,,/it*$ ,illu/ration3 ,,wrong ,,side ,,( ,,pat* ,,9 ,,table ,,clo?--,,raw ,,edge ,,ov]ca/ ,sid5ote3 ,onset ,pat* ,! onset pat* is us$ on l9$ g>m5ts & l9+s4 ,! pat* %\ld be rectangul> & l>g] ?an ! worn place4 ,fold ! f\r edges on ! wrong side ( ! pat*1 place ! pat* ) its wrong side on ! "r side ( ! g>m5t directly ov] ! c5t] ( ! hole4 ,?is w br+ ! fold$ edges ( ! pat* betwe5 ! two pieces ( clo? & bo? "r sides t[>ds ! work]4 ,d n ba/e1 b p9 c>efully4 ,aft] ! g>m5t has be5 fold$ back until !re are two fold$ edges side by side1 ov]h& ! seam ) ev5 slant+ /it*es4 ,see t ! corn]s are well sew$1 t w>p & wo( ?reads run 9 ! same direction1 t patt]n & /ripes mat*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,l95 ,,pat*2 ,,cross ,,/it* ,,initial ,illu/ration3 ,,"r ,,side ,,( ,,flannel ,,pat* ,edge cat /it*$ b n turn$1 back cat /it*$ 9 ! same way4 ,! worn "p ( ! g>m5t "u ! pat* is cut away1 leav+ "o-f\r? ( an in* on ! ?ree sides4 ,cut ! corn]s diagonally & turn back ! edge qu>t] ( an in*1 ov]ca/ & press4 ,if ?is pat* is sew$ on a l9+1 ! worn "p is n cut away4 ,if ?is pat* is us$ to repair skirts ne> ! b&1 only ?ree sides are ov]sew$1 ! upp] edge %\ld be ga!r$ into ! b&4 ,a l>ge pat* is less conspicu\s ?an a small "o4 ,sid5ote3 ,pat* = ,tr[s]s ,an onset pat* may be us$ = ! seats ( tr\s]s by %ap+ ! pat* l ! pieces on ! seats ( bicycle tr\s]s & /it*+ on ! ma*9e4 ,heavy clo? w ne$ no inturn$ edges4 ,! same precautions are necess>y reg>d+ w>p & wo(1 patt]n1 etc4 ,,d>n+ ,sid5ote3 ,?read = ,d>n+ ,d>n+ is usually done ) a runn+ /it*1 ) or )\t a piece ( net or clo? und]set4 ,?read = d>n+ %\ld be z ne> z possible ! size ( ! ?reads 9 ! g>m5t4 ,:5ev] x c be done1 a w>p ?read ( ! g>m5t %\ld be us$4 ,no sew+ silk is f9e en\gh to use )\t sep>at+ ! ?read & us+ "o ( ! /r&s4 ,nev] use ! ?read z x is1 z x is too h>d twi/$4 ,cotton & l95 ?read ( ! f9e/ quality1 untwi/$1 %\ld be us$ = d>n+ /ock+s & und]we>4 ,l95 may be d>n$ ) l95 or m]c]iz$ cotton4 ,cotton is pref]able4 ,a long sl5d] ne$le ) a l>ge eye %\ld be us$4 ,d>n+ %\ld nev] be comm5c$ ) a knot1 nor f9i%$ ) a back /it*4 ,sid5ote3 ,bias ,d>n ,a bias or diagonal cut & a ?ree-corn]$ te> are ! mo/ difficult to repair4 ,if ! place is badly pull$ & fray$1 a piece ( ! same mat]ial %\ld be ba/$ on ! wrong side ( ! mat]ial & d>n$ 9 ev5 /it*es4 ,always d>n+ p>allel ) ! w>p ?reads & ! wo( ?reads4 ,9 ! diagonal te>1 z ! ?reads are cut diagonally1 to prev5t draw+ ap>t1 ! d>n+ ?reads mu/ cross ea* o!r4 ,! /it*es ar\nd any d>n %\ld n end 9 a /iff ev5 l9e2 ?is makes a h>d edge :i* does n we> & is unsightly1 & uncom=table if on und]we>4 ,sid5ote3 ,d>n+ a ,?ree ,corn]$ ,te> ,! ?ree-corn]$ te> may be d>n$ 9 two ways4 ,beg9 by d>n+ diagonally ?r\gh ! c5t]1 d>n+ back & =? t[>ds ! end ( ! te> until "o-half has be5 f9i%$2 !n beg9 at ! c5t] & "w 9 ! opposite direction4 ,at ! corn]1 ! /it*es %\ld =m ! %ape ( a fan4 ,! o!r me?od1 :i* is ! /rong]1 is done by d>n+ a squ>e 9 ! angle1 fir/ ) ! w>p ?reads1 !n ) ! wo( ?reads & f9i%+ ea* end across ! te>4 ,/ock+ d>n+ may be done on ! "r side4 ,beg9 by pick+ up ! /it*es & draw+ ! edges toge!r4 ,?is %\ld always be done 9 any k9d ( /ock+ d>n+1 b n s close z to make a wr9kle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/ock9et ,,d>n+ ,,ov] ,,net ,int]lac$ ,/it*es & ,*a9 ,/it*es4 ,9 knees & heels ( /ock+s1 or knitt$ und]we>1 a piece ( net l>ge en\gh to ext5d beyond ! ?9 "p %\ld be ba/$ c>efully2 !n d>n d[n ! out] edges ( ! net & f9ally ! hole or ?9 place4 ,?is makes a /rong1 neat piece ( m5d+4 ,if ! hole is l>ge1 ! net may be cov]$ ) ! *a9 /it*1 ?us imitat+ ! knitt+ /it*4 ,?is %\ld be done on ! "r side ( ! g>m5t4 ,if ! hole is to be fill$ 9 ) ! int]lac$ /it*es1 draw ! edges toge!r1 d>n beyond ! ?9 places l5g?wise ( ! knitt$ g>m5t1 mak+ ea* l9e ( /it*es long] until ! c5t] ( ! hole is rea*$1 !n decrease 9 ! same mann]1 mak+ a diamond 9 %ape4 ,d>n across ! hole 9 ! same way1 tak+ up e alt]nate /it* z 9 weav+4 ,leave a t9y loop at ! end ( ea* r[ ( d>n+1 s t ! ?reads w n draw4 ,sid5ote3 ,ma*9e ,d>n+ ,d>n+1 satisfactory = "s purposes1 may be done quickly on a d\ble ?read sew+ ma*9e4 ,x is be/ done 9 an embroid]y r+1 fir/ draw+ ! edges toge!r4 ,loos5 ! t5sion on ! press] foot1 use f9e ?read ) light t5sion4 ,sew back & =?1 fir/ along ! w>p ?reads & !n at "r angles along ! wo( ?reads4 ,! ma*9e w be sew+ backw>ds "p ( ! "t1 b if ! pressure is light1 !re w be no difficulty4 ,= l>ge holes1 pap] may be plac$ und]nea?4 ,,mit]+ ,,embroid]y ,,or ,,lace ,! mit]+ ( lace or embroid]y is (t5 necess>y 9 mak+ coll>s & 9 f9i%+ corn]s4 ,be=e apply+1 plan c>efully & select a scallop or portion ( ! embroid]y :i* w produce ! be/ effects :5 f9i%$4 ,?is c be accompli%$ by fold+ ! embroid]y ov] at v>i\s portions ( ! patt]n until a suitable po9t is f\nd4 ,fold ov] at "r angles & m>k along ! l9e to be mit]$4 ,! triangle may n[ be cut1 b an extra wid? mu/ always be all[$ = ! seam1 z !re is frequ5tly a slight unev5ness & "o side may h to be held a little full or /ret*$ to make a p]fect mat*4 ,! mit]$ seam is ov]-sew$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mit]+ ,,& ,,jo9+ ,,embroid]y ,a--,f9i%$ ) a /it*$ seam2 ,b--,edge hemm$ d[n & clo? cut away und]nea?2 ,c--,jo9$ ) lapp$ seam4 ,aft] ! corn] is prop]ly made1 cut away ! clo? ( ! embroid]y1 all[+ only en\gh = an inturn$ seam on ! edge4 ,?is seam may be /it*$ on ! ma*9e on bo? edges1 or ov]sew$ to ! goods1 or ! embroid]y may be securely sew$ on ! pla9 "p1 aft] :i* ! und]ly+ clo? may be cut away4 ,?is w make an almo/ p]fect corn]4 ,lace may be mat*$ & mit]$ 9 a simil> way4 ,,mat*+ ,,& ,,jo9+ ,,lace ,9 jo9+ lace1 avoid a seam if possible4 ,select portions ( ! design t w mat*1 plac+ "o patt]n ( ! same design ov] ! o!r4 ,cut away a portion ( ! ?ick "p ( ! patt]n und]nea? & hem ! edges & inn] "p ( ! design d[n ) f9e ?read4 ,smyrna or ,tor*on lace is m difficult to hem or jo9 :5 v op5 or v f9e4 ,a small1 fell$ seam is bett] ?an lapp+ & try+ to mat* ! patt]n4 ,embroid]y c be mat*$ 9 ! same way4 ,nev] let two heavy designs lap ov] ea* o!r4 ,! "o on ! wrong side %\ld be cut out & ! edge sew$ securely to ! upp] "p ( ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ins]tion ,,) ,,mitr$ ,,corn]1 ,,tap$ ,,& ,,fac$2 ,,embroid]y ,,roll$ ,,:ipp$ ,,& ,,ga!r$ ,! pla9 mat]ial above ! embroid]y c be jo9$ by a lapp$ seam1 turn+ fir/ ! "r side & !n ! wrong side & hemm+ on bo? sides ( ! seam4 ,,ma*9e ,,sew+ ,! sew+ ma*9e has tak5 away mu* ( ! drudg]y ( home sew+1 b its use does n less5 ! ne$ ( skill 9 h& "w4 ,no ma*9e c f9i% ends ( belts1 coll>s1 sew on trimm+s1 fa/5+s1 & l "w & ! f9i% has mu* to d ) ! g5]al appe>ance ( a g>m5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,types ( ,ma*9es ,all ! prom95t makes ( sew+ ma*9es 7 inv5t$ 9 ! decade foll[+ ,h[e's pat5t 9 #ahdf4 ,! two *ief types ( ma*9es are ! lock /it*1 us+ d\ble ?read1 & ! *a9 or loop /it*1 us+ a s+le ?read4 ,:atev] ! make ( ma*9e x %\ld be run 9 accordance ) ! rules accompany+ x4 ,! work] %\ld famili>ize h]self ) ! directions = sett+ & ?read+ ! ne$le1 w9d+ ! bobb91 regulat+ ! t5sion & ! /it* & all o!r te*nicalities ( ! p>ticul> ma*9e %e has to op]ate4 ,ag5cies ( ! v>i\s ma*9es usually h skill$ work]s to give in/ruction to beg9n]s4 ,:ile x is n always an economy ( "t to use ! atta*m5ts = hemm+1 tuck+1 etc41 unless mu* "w is to be done1 x is wor? :ile to "k h[ to use !m if desir$4 ,z mu* or m skill is requir$ = neat ma*9e "w z = h& sew+4 ,results w n be satisfactory )\t c>eful ba/+4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>e ( ! ,ma*9e ,! ma*9e %\ld be kept well oil$1 free f du/ & gum & x %\ld he run ev5ly4 ,9 case x becomes gumm$ a drop ( k]os5e on ! p>ts t h be5 oil$ w cut ! gum4 ,remove ! %uttle & run ! ma*9e rapidly = a mom5t1 !n wipe (f all ! k]os5e & oil ! ma*9e c>efully ) good ma*9e oil--only ! be/ %\ld be us$4 ,a ma*9e %\ld always be wip$ ?or\ghly be=e any "w is plac$ ^u x4 ,sid5ote3 ,ne$les & ,?read ,z 9 h& sew+1 ne$les & ?read %\ld be select$ ) c>e4 ,a blunt or b5t ne$le %\ld nev] be us$1 x %\ld h a f9e %>p po9t & ! eye %\ld be suffici5tly l>ge to c>ry ! ?read easily4 ,! ne$le & ?read %\ld be suitable = ! mat]ial to be sew$4 ,glaz$ ?read %\ld nev] be us$ 9 a ma*9e4 ,! be/ quality ( ?read & silk %\ld be pur*as$ b only en\gh = imm$iate use1 z x loses /r5g? ) age1 *iefly because ( ! action ( ! dyes & *emicals4 ,ev5 :ite ?read may become t5d] f ! *emicals us$ 9 blea*+ x4 ,sew+ silk & cotton %\ld be kept 9 a clos$ box to exclude ! light & air4 ,= sew+ cotton or l95 ! be/ cotton ?read %\ld be us$4 ,wool51 silk1 & velvet %\ld be /it*$ ) ! be/ ma*9e silk4 ,! ?read %\ld mat* ! mat]ial 9 color4 ,cotton ?read fades or loses its brightness :5 expos$ to ! light1 !re=e = /it*+ t w %[ x is always bett] to use silk4 ,! ?read on ! bobb9 %\ld be w\nd ev5ly & c>efully to insure an ev5 /it* & ! t5sion ( bo? ?reads %\ld be equal1 o!rwise ! /it* w n be p]fect4 ,z a lock /it* ma*9e requires two ?reads :ile 9 h& sew+ only "o is us$1 ! two ne$ n be z co>se z ! s+le ?read4 ,= ord9>y home sew+1 und]we>1 ?9 g[ns & ! l1 ,no4 #gj to ,no4 #ajj w be f\nd satisfactory4 ,f9] ?read may be us$ :5 ! mat]ials dem& x1 b no co>s] ?an ,no4 #ej %\ld be us$ 9 ! ma*9e & ?is only ) ! co>se/ mat]ial4 ,sid5ote3 ,fa/5+ ,?reads ,mu* "t may be sav$ 9 fa/5+ ! ?reads at ! ends ( tucks1 hems on %eets1 t[els1 etc41 by c>eful manipulation ( ! ma*9e4 ,= example1 on %eets beg9 to /it* along ! hem at ! selvage1 or if ! end ( ! hem is ov]-sew$1 beg9 an in* f ! edge & /it* ! hem t[>ds ! selvage1 !n lift ! press]-foot s z to turn ! "w1 & retrace ! bit ( /it*+1 cont9u+ across ! :ole hem4 ,:5 ! end is rea*$1 release ! press]-foot1 turn ! "w1 & /it* back = an in* or m 9 ! same l9e1 z 0 done at ! beg9n+ ( ! hem4 ,by ?is me?od ! ?reads are fa/5$ mu* m easily & quickly ?an by draw+ !m ?r\gh on to ! wrong side & ty+ or sew+ !m by h& &1 ( c\rse1 x is m satisfactory ?an ! %op way ( cutt+ !m (f %ort4 ,tucks or seams may be fa/5$ 9 ! same way4 ,if f9e ?read is us$ ! d\ble /it*+ at ! ends is h>dly noticeable4 ,sid5ote3 ,bias ,side ,next ,fe$ ,:5 /it*+ a seam hav+ "o bias & "o /raight side1 let ! bias side come next to ! fe$1 t is1 on ! und]side4 ,?is is especially important 9 ?9 mat]ials4 ,if ! mat]ial is v %e]1 /rips ( s(t pap]--newspap] w answ] = ord9>y purposes--%\ld be sew$ 9 ! seam4 ,?is w insure a seam free f puck]s & :5 f9i%$ ! pap] c be pull$ away easily4 ,sid5ote3 ,/it*+ ,ga!rs ,9 sew+ ga!rs on a b& !y %\ld also come next ! fe$1 z x takes up ! side next to x a little fa/] ?an ! upp] side4 ,:5 ! bias1 or cross-way side ( ! seam1 or ga!rs are next to ! fe$ ! mat]ial runs along smoo?ly1 b if ! /raight side is t[>ds x !re is apt to be a puck]4 ,/it*+ c be done m easily on ! "r ( ! press] foot ) ! bulk ( ! mat]ial ly+ to ! left4 ,! t5d5cy ( ! fe$ or tee? is to cr[d ! "w (f ! edge z well z =w>d & ! /it*+ may be guid$ bett] on ! "r side4 ,all /raight seams %\ld be /ret*$ to ! full ext5t ( _! /raight edge 9 /it*+1 z ! "w passes "u ! press] foot4 ,:5 a l>ge am\nt ( ma*9e sew+ is to be done--su* z h\sehold l951 %eets1 pill[ cases & und]we>--x is a good plan to d all ! ba/+ & h& "w fir/ & keep ! ma*9e /it*+ = a ra9y or a damp day1 z ! ?read is !n less apt to break4 ,a curr5t ( air or a breeze f an op5 w9d[ on a dry day w (t5 cause ! ?read to snap4 ,= ! same reason ! ma*9e %\ld nev] /& ne> ! fire or radiator4 ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,"p ,,ii ,,read ,,c>efully4 ,?is te/ consi/s ( two p>ts1--answ]s to ! que/ions & ! mak+ ( models4 ,bo? %\ld be s5t to ! ,s*ool = inspection & correction4 ,all models %\ld be made ab\t #d by #f in*es s t !y may be put into ! envelope provid$ )\t be+ fold$4 ,two s]ies ( models are giv52 ei!r or bo? may be made4 #a4 ,:at in/ruction h y ev] _h 9 sew+8 7b7 ,has ! subject any educational value8 #b4 ,:at are ! common ba/+ /it*es1 & = :at are !y us$8 #c4 ,c y make ! runn+ /it* prop]ly8 ,h[ is x done8 #d4 ,= :at purpose may ! cat /it* be us$8 #e4 ,hems & ,seams3 ,describe ! diff]5t k9ds = ?ick & ?9 mat]ials1 includ+ ^? = flannel & /ate :5 !y %\ld be us$4 #f4 ,describe ?ree k9ds ( plackets4 #g4 ,h[ are ga!rs made1 & h[ sew$ into a b&8 #h4 ,:at c y say ( fa/5+s8 #i4 ,) :at sew+ ma*9e are y mo/ famili>1 & :at are its peculi>ities8 #aj4 ,:at /it*es or me?ods describ$ 9 ?is lesson are new to y8 ,note3 ,aft] complet+ ! answ]s1 sign y\r full "n4 ,,models1 ,,fir/ ,,s]ies ,i4 ,,/it*es4 ,on a piece ( cotton ab\t #d by #f in*es1 make ) color$ ?read 7#a7 a l9e ( ev5 ba/+ /it*es1 7#b7 unev5 ba/+ /it*es1 7#c7 tack+1 7#d7 runn+1 7#e7 back /it*1 7#f7 runn+ & back1 7#g7 half back4 ,) embroid]y silk make a r[ ea* ( 7#a7 cat /it*1 7#b7 s+le fea!r1 7#c7 d\ble fea!r1 7#d7 *a91 7#e7 r[s ( ,fr5* knots ) bord] ( outl9e /it*4 ,make y\r initial 9 "o corn]1 us+ any /it* pref]r$4 ,ov]ca/ "o long edge ( ! model1 d\ble ov]ca/ ! opposite side1 f9i% "o end ) pla9 loop or blanket /it*1 & ! o!r end ) "s fancy loop /it*4 ,fa/5 all ?reads z describ$ 9 ! text4 ,,ii4 ,,seams ,,& ,,hems4 7a7 ,jo9 two pieces ( f9e cotton ) a ,fr5* seam at ! long edge1 ab\t #b by #e in*es1 ) w>p runn+ l5g?wise4 7b7 ,cut a piece ( musl9 on a true bias & atta* ! bias edge to a ) a fell$ seam4 7c7 ,trim ! model & hem all sides s t ! f9i%$ model may measure #d by #f in*es4 ,,iii4 ,,d>n+ ,,& ,,pat*+4 7a7 ,9 g+ham or figures cotton1 make an und]set pat* ( a squ>e hole1 mat*+ ! goods4 7b7 ,d>n a ?ree-corn]$ te>4 ,,iv4 ,,fa/5+s4 ,! prop] di/ance f ! edge ( fold$ goods make 7a7 button hole1 "o end r\nd$ & ! o!r f9i%$ ) a b> tack4 7b7 ,"u x make a p>tly f9i%$1 b>r$ buttonhole4 7c7 ,bel[ ?is make an eyelet hole1 7d7 bel[ ! eyelet hole a loop1 & sew on an eye4 ,on a second piece ( fold$ goods opposite ! fir/ buttonhole1 7a7 sew a f\r-hole button1 correspond+ 9 size to ! buttonhole4 7b7 ,opposite ! second buttonhole sew on a two-hole button2 7c7 bel[1 sew on two hooks correspond+ 9 position to ! loop & eye4 ,make ! two p>ts ( ! model s t ! correspond+ fa/5+s w jo94 ,v4 ,,apron4 ,us+ f9e musl91 make a doll's apron1 ga!r+ into b& at top4 ,above hem at ! bottom1 make two clu/]s ( tucks ( ?ree ea*4 ,,models4 ,,second ,,s]ies4 ,,= ,,exp]i5c$ ,,work]s ,i4 ,,roll$ ,,hem2 ,,hem ,,/it*+4 ,make a doll's apron ( f9e musl91 atta* top to b& ) roll$1 :ipp$ ga!rs4 ,make two clu/]s ( tucks ( ?ree ea* at ! bottom & hem /it* ! bottom hem4 ,,ii4 ,,sleeve ,,placket4 ,make a tap$ sleeve placket z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4 ,,iii4 ,,make ,a ,,slot ,,seam1 us+ dress goods & f9i% ) an arr[ head4 7b7 ,make a l>ge cloak buttonhole4 ,,iv4 ,,mitre ,,embroid]y & f9i% z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4 7b7 ,mat* & jo9 ! same4 ,v4 ,,embroid]y3 ,make some?+ small & useful--a doily1 /ock1 coll>--illu/rat+ "s /yle ( embroid]y1 or make a model ( ! fir/ s]ies :i* w af=d y ! mo/ new exp]i5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mak+ ,,mexican ,,drawn-,,"w ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,"p ,,iii ,,dressmak+ ,sid5ote3 ,good ,tools ,necess>y ,! greate/ ob/acle to home sew+ ( any k9d is ! failure to provide suitable mat]ials ) :i* to d ! "w4 ,to d good "w--to make attractive g[ns--! simple tools :i* ! "w requires mu/ be provid$4 ,fir/1 !re %\ld be ne$les & p9s ( ! be/ quality & make4 ,!y %\ld be f9e & well po9t$4 ,! ne$le %\ld be suitable to ! mat]ial to be sewn & suffici5tly l>ge to c>ry ! ?read easily4 ,a blunt or b5t ne$le %\ld nev] be us$4 ,long or mill9]'s ne$les are pref]r$ by _m = ba/+4 ,sid5ote3 ,?read ,a good supply ( ?read %\ld be kept on h&--n too great a quantity1 b ! /ock %\ld be add$ to z x is us$4 ,!re %\ld be bo? silk & color$ cotton1 also twi/ = button holes1 loops & arr[ heads & knitt+ silk to sew on & f9i% fea!r bone4 ,sid5ote3 ,scissors ,two pairs ( scissors are requir$--"o ) long1 %>p blades1 & a pair ( m$ium sizes = snipp+ ma*9e /it*es4 ,among ! o!r necess>y articles are a tape measure1 cake ( wax1 p5cils or tailor's *alk1 trac+ :eel1 em]y1 lap bo>d4 ,canvas1 scrim1 or any l mat]ial %\ld be kept 9 ! sew+ room1 z ^! are invaluable = fac+s1 l9+s ( coll>s1 cuffs1 etc4 ,hooks1 eyes1 buttons1 tape1 l9+s1 fea!rbone & %ields are requisites n to be =gott54 ,sid5ote3 ,tapes ,tape is con/antly ne$$4 ,l95 tape is ?9n] & makes a neat] f9i% = "s purposes ?an cotton tape4 ,! bias tape or b9d+ n[ kept by ! l>g] /ores is v useful = b9d+ curv$ edges & = o!r purposes4 ,sid5ote3 ,cutt+ ,table ,if a regul> cutt+ table is n available1 ! d9+ room table %\ld be us$4 ,skirts1 bodices1 ruffles1 & bias b&s %\ld be cut on firm1 ev51 & l>ge surfaces4 ,if cut ^u ! floor or b$ & press$ on a co>se cra% t[el1 ! g>m5t w h ! undesirable home-made look4 ,sid5ote3 ,press+ ,bo>d ,a good press+ bo>d %\ld be provid$ & if possible a sleeve bo>d4 ,9 ! process ( g>m5t mak+ ( any k9d too mu* /ress _c be laid ^u con/ant & c>eful press+4 ,! iron+ bo>d %\ld h = its outside cov] a f9ely wov51 p]fectly smoo? clo?1 tightly /ret*$1 free f wr9kles1 & securely tack$4 ,:]e !re is gas1 a small1 portable /ove %\ld be kept ne> ! sew+ table ) a m$ium-siz$ flat iron4 ,lack+ gas1 "o ( ! s+le burn] oil /oves may be us$4 ,an electric flat iron is especially conv5i5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,bu/ ,=m ,a bu/ =m is a great conv5i5ce 9 fitt+ & almo/ a necessity = "o :o does mu* home dress+4 ,^! may be pur*as$ at dep>tm5t /ores4 ,"s k9ds are adju/able1 b x is always be/ to make a c>efully fitt$ l9+ = x & pad out to ! correct %ape & size4 ,! patt]n %\ld be "o t ext5ds well ov] ! hips & heavy unblea*$ musl9 may be us$4 ,aft] padd+ firmly1 ! front op5+ %\ld be ov]sew$4 ,special c>e %\ld be tak5 ) %\ld]s & neck & ! neck b& %\ld be c>efully adju/$ on ! figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,,padd$ ,,bu/ ,,=m 7,f ,dressmak+ ,up-to-,date1 ,butt]ick ,co47 ,a padd$ sleeve l9+ is also v useful 9 mak+ sleeves4 ,dressmak+ nev] %\ld be begun until ea* ne$$ article requir$ = ! "w has be5 pur*as$4 ,! sew+ room %\ld be 9 ord]2 ! ma*9e well oil$ & wip$ be=e any "w is und]tak54 ,sid5ote3 ,skill & ,ta/e ,if ! f9i%$ g>m5t is to be p]fect1 c>eful att5tion mu/ be giv5 to e detail ( ! cutt+ & mak+ up4 ,to possess me*anical skill alone is n suffici5t4 ,a successful g>m5t dep5ds n only ^u ! dext]ity ) :i* ! work] manipulates ! actual tools ( h] craft1 b ^u all h] faculties & h] p[] ( apply+ !m4 ,%e mu/ h a compreh5sion ( ! laws ( beauty 9 dress1 con/ruction1 ornam5t1 color1 selection1 economy4 ,! artisan kn[s ! te*nical "p only1 & looks ^u ea* dress--ea* piece ( lace & velvet--z s mu* mat]ial to be snipp$ & cut & sew$1 copy+ f ! fa%ion plate1 mak+ g[n aft] g[n alike4 ,! arti/1 on ! o!r h&1 makes ! g[n to suit ! individual we>]1 consid]+ ea* dress no matt] h[ simple--& ! simpl]1 ! m arti/ic--z a creation design$ to suit ! woman = :om x 0 plann$4 ,p :o /udy economy f pr9ciple w nev] adopt any?+ extreme 9 weave1 or color1 or make4 ,^! extreme fa%ions are nev] la/+2 !y are too conspicu\s & are vulg>iz$ by bad copies1 :ile a ?+ :i* is kn[n to be good & beautiful once w rema9 s = all "t4 ,^? :o are beg9n]s 9 ! art ( dressmak+ %\ld select pla9 designs until skill is acquir$4 ,! mak+ up & f9i%+ ( new fabrics & new or untri$ me?ods are problems t (t5 dismay ev5 ! mo/ exp]i5c$ dressmak]4 ,,patt]ns ,sid5ote3 ,selection ( ,patt]ns ,! mak]s ( good & reliable patt]ns are _m4 ,always buy patt]ns ( firms t make proportion ( figure z well z fa%ion a /udy4 ,^! patt]ns /ate l5g? ( skirt1 wai/ & hip measure & quantity ( mat]ial requir$ 9 all wid?s4 ,buy a skirt patt]n ) correct hip size1 z x is mu* m difficult to *ange ?is ?an to alt] ! dim5sions ( a wai/4 ,adju/ ! patt]n to ! figure = :i* ! g>m5t is to be cut & see t x is "r 9 all ( its proportions4 ,always foll[ ! not*es indicat$ 9 ! seams ( ! patt]n1 & ?us avoid putt+ wrong pieces toge!r4 ,be sure t ! patt]n is plac$ correctly ^u ! mat]ial ) ! /raight gra9 or w>p ?reads ( ! goods runn+ directly on a l9e ) ! /raight p]=ations indicat$ 9 ! patt]n4 ,lay ! entire patt]n ^u ! clo?4 ,?is gives an idea j :]e e piece is to come out4 ,sid5ote3 ,:at ! ,patt]n ,gives ,all patt]ns give "o-half ( ! bodice & ! skirt1 f c5t] ( back to c5t] ( front4 ,! pla9 wai/ patt]n consi/s ( back1 curv$ side piece1 "u arm piece 7sometimes ^! two pieces are 9 "o7 front1 upp] & "u sleeve1 coll> or neck b&4 ,"s patt]ns all[ = seams--o!rs d n4 ,skirt patt]ns give only "o-half ( ! front gore4 ,! seam edges ( front gore are m>k$ by "o not* ne> ! wai/ l9e4 ,! front or /raight edge ( ! fir/ side gore has "o not*1 & two on ! back edge ( side gore4 ,all ! gores may be di/+ui%$ f ! edges ( ! back gores by ! less] numb] ( not*es4 ,?is is true ( all skirt patt]ns4 ,if ! patt]ns are /udi$ c>efully1 all skirt cutt+ becomes v easy4 ,! object ( gor+ a g>m5t is to take out unnecess>y fullness at ! top2 r$uc+ ! weight1 mak+ ! g>m5t less clumsy1 & giv+ a nicety ( f9i% :i* c\ld n be done 9 heavy mat]ial if all ! goods 7 left to fit into a b&4 ,skirts may be l9$ or unl9$1 gor$ or full4 ,,sev5-,,gor$ ,,skirt ,! /yle may v>y ) ! fa%ion1 b a well-fitt+ skirt %\ld hang ev5 ar\nd ! bottom edge1 %\ld fit easily ar\nd ! hips )\t be+ /ra9$ or def9+ ! figure too closely1 or ride up :5 sitt+1 %\ld fl>e slightly f hips to ! bottom ( ! skirt1 %\ld n fall 9 betwe5 ! feet1 ! back %\ld fall well beh9d ! figure4 ,= heavy goods1 z little mat]ial z possible consi/5t ) ! prevail+ /yle %\ld be us$4 ,,plan ,,( ,,skirt ,,mak+ ,%ort5+ or l5g!n+ ( patt]n if necess>y4 ,plac+ ( goods4 ,p9n+ on ( patt]n s !re is no wa/e4 ,cutt+4 ,remov+ & c>e ( patt]ns4 ,p9n+1 ba/+1 or tack+ ( skirt to l9+4 ,jo9+ ( seams1 fitt+4 ,/it*+4 ,press+4 ,f9i%+ ( seams & placket hole4 ,mak+ & putt+ on wai/-b&4 ,m>k+ l5g? & f9i%+ ! bottom4 ,fa/5+s1 loops1 braids1 hooks & eyes4 ,sid5ote3 ,l5g!n+ or ,%ort5+ ,patt]ns ,to l5g!n or %ort5 a skirt patt]n1 measure ! figure & regulate ! l5g? ( ! patt]ns by mak+ a fold 9 ea* gore two-?irds ( ! way f ! top ( ! patt]n if too long4 ,?is is = ! simple/ skirt patt]n4 ,! %ape ( ! skirt may require two folds1 "o two-?irds f ! top & a small fold ne> ! bottom to pres]ve ! outl9e4 ,if too %ort p9 ! patt]n on ! mat]ial1 cut ar\nd ! top ( gore & on ea* side two-?irds ( ! di/ance f ! top ( gore4 ,unp9 & draw ! patt]n d[n to ! bottom & cut ! requir$ l5g?4 ,except = wa% mat]ial1 d n turn a gor$ skirt up at ! bottom to =m a wide hem1 z ! fullness made by turn+ is h>d to dispose ( neatly & ! "r curve at ! bottom ( ! skirt may be lo/4 ,ano!r way to l5g!n ! patt]n is to cut x 9 two1 two-?irds ! di/ance f ! top4 ,see t all pleats or tucks are exactly ! same wid? & at ! exact di/ance f ! top or bottom ( ! gore1 also t all seams are ( ! "r l5g?4 ,a %ort] skirt mu/ be proportionately n>r[]4 ,sid5ote3 ,te/+ ,patt]ns ,x is well to te/ ! skirt & wai/ patt]ns by us+ inexp5sive mat]ials1 su* z calico1 g+ham1 or *eap l9+4 ,cut1 ba/e1 fit1 & make ?is z c>efully z if x 7 ! be/ clo? or silk4 ,if ! skirt & wai/ are satisfactory1 ! patt]n w d duty = sev]al seasons4 ,! pla9 wai/ patt]n is ! f\ndation = any wai/ & _m *anges c be made easily ) a well-fitt+ skirt & pla9 wai/ patt]n z a basis4 ,sid5ote3 ,clo? ,patt]ns ,z pap] patt]ns soon we> out1 aft] a wai/ & skirt h be5 p]fectly fitt$1 x is a good plan to cut an exact patt]n ( cambric1 bo? skirt & wai/1 trac+ seams & not*+ ! p>ts4 ,?is w enable ! home dressmak] to cut & make all ord9>y dresses ) little tr\ble & ) b "o try+ on4 ,x is always well to try on once1 z mat]ials diff] 9 texture & a slight *ange may be necess>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plac+ ,,patt]ns ,at ! left1 on pla9 or symmetrical designs2 at ! "r1 on figur$ or napp$ goods4 a--,half ( front gore2 b--,second gore2 c--,?ird gore2 d--,back gore2 e--,front wai/2 f--,"u arm piece2 g--,side back2 h--,back2 i--,outside sleeve2 j--,"u sleeve2 c' d'--,piec+ ( gores c1 d4 ,sid5ote3 ,plac+ ,patt]ns ,if ! mat]ial is pla91 has no nap1 or if ! design is p]fectly symmetrical1 ! gores may be alt]nat$1 ! top ( "o gore com+ opposite ! bottom ( ! next4 ,! half patt]n ( ! front gore is always laid on a l5g?wise fold ( ! goods4 ,if ! goods is wide1 ! o!r gores may be cut d\ble ) ! clo? fold$ l5g?wise4 ,) n>r[ goods1 ! clo? may be fold$ end to end aft] ! middle gore has be5 cut out1 & ! o!r gores cut d\ble4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 t ! l9e ( holes 9 ! middle ( ! gores runs exactly 9 a l9e ) ! w>p ( ! mat]ial1 i4 e41 p>allel to ! selvage4 ,if ! goods has a figure1 ! design %\ld run upw>ds4 ,any nap %\ld run d[nw>d1 except ) velvet or velvete51 9 :i* x %\ld run upw>ds4 ,) su* goods1 ! gores if cut d\ble mu/ be plac$ on a l5g?wise fold1 ) ! l5g?s runn+ ! same way4 ,if ! goods is n>r[1 ! gores may h to be cut s+le1 rev]s+ ! patt]n 7turn+ x ov]7 s t bo? pieces may n be = ! same side4 ,sid5ote3 ,p9n+ ,patt]ns ,p9 ! middle ( ! patt]n to ! goods & smoo? t[>ds ea* end1 p9n+ securely at top & bottom4 ,avoid too _m p9s & p9 c>efully1 o!rwise ! patt]n w be displac$4 ,sid5ote3 ,cutt+ ,out ,aft] ! patt]n is securely p9n$1 cut out ! gores1 us+ long1 %>p %e>s4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 n to lift ! mat]ial f ! table1 n to h jagg$1 unev5 edges1 z bo? "t & mat]ial w be wa/$ 9 /raight5+ !m4 ,op5 ! %e>s z wide z possible1 tak+ a long sweep ( ! mat]ial1 & d n all[ ! po9ts ( ! %e>s to come toge!r4 ,m>k all not*es ) ba/+ ?read1 tailor's *alk1 or not* ! goods if x does n ravel4 ,! back gores %\ld be cut 9 ! same way4 ,!y are usually wid] ?an ! front gores & may require piec+1 :i* %\ld be done along ! w>p ?reads4 ,n[ remove ! patt]n1 p9 c>efully all pieces toge!r & fold z little z possible4 ,! tr9ity--p91 ba/e1 press--%\ld be writt5 9 l>ge lett]s 9 e sew+ room1 = mu* ( ! beauty ( ! g[n dep5ds ^u ^! ?ree4 ,sid5ote3 ,jo9+ ! ,skirt ,to jo9 ! skirt1 p9 ! side gores to ! front gores1 beg9n+ at ! top1 ) p9s runn+ across ! seams1 !n beg9 at ! top ( ! skirt & ba/e d[nw>d1 all[+ all unev5ness to come out at ! bottom4 ,ba/e /raight & ev5ly1 tak+ "o /it* at a "t4 ,sev]al /it*es %\ld nev] be tak5 at once on ?ick or pil$ goods1 z ! side next to ! sew] is apt to be full] 9 t case4 ,:5 all seams are ba/$1 try on ! skirt & make all *anges necess>y be=e /it*+4 ,bo? ! outside skirt & any "u or drop skirt %\ld be fitt$ z c>efully z a wai/4 ,sid5ote3 ,l9$ ,skirt ,if ! skirt is to be l9$ ! l9+ %\ld be made & fitt$ fir/1 !n ripp$ & ! outside c>efully ba/$ on ! l9+1 be+ well /ret*$ ov] ! l9+1 c>e be+ tak5 to h ! w>p ( ! outside & ! l9+ run ! same way4 ,?is w prev5t ! l9+ f draw+ ! goods4 ,sid5ote3 ,/it*+ ,skirts ,a /it* ( m$ium l5g? %\ld be us$ on all seams :e!r :ite goods or clo?4 ,if ! /it* is too long1 ! seam w gap & w %[ ! ?read2 if too %ort1 ! seam is apt to draw4 ,! l9e ( /it*+ mu/ be absolutely p>allel inside or outside ( ! ba/+ or ! curve w be ru9$4 ,use silk or ! be/ cotton = /it*+ skirts & be sure t ! ne$le is n too co>se4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i%+ ,seams ,aft] /it*+1 all ba/+s along ! seams %\ld be tak5 out by cutt+ ! ?read 9 sev]al places4 ,nev] pull a ba/+ ! l5g? ( ! skirt4 ,! seams %\ld be op5$ & press$ accord+ to directions4 ,! seams may be f9i%$ ) a taffeta b9d+1 ov]ca/1 /it*$ flat or not*$1 z ! case dem&s4 ,sid5ote3 ,/iff5+ ,if /iff5+ is us$ at ! bottom ( a l9$ skirt x %\ld be fitt$ to ea* l9+ gore sep>ately & securely /it*$4 ,a light weight canvas %\ld be /it*$ to a heavy clo? skirt at ! bottom1 if sev]al r[s ( /it*+ or braid are to f9i% ! bottom ( ! skirt4 ,sid5ote3 ,placket ,! placket may be f9i%$ be=e ! two back gores are p9n$ to ! front1 if pref]r$4 ,if done be=e jo9+ ! gores ! placket c be press$ bett] & ! front is n s liable to be cru%$4 ,on ! left side ( ! skirt sew an und]lap ( suffici5t l5g? to ext5d well bel[ ! end ( ! op5+4 ,face ! "r side ( ! op5+ ) a piece ( ! goods1 or tape n too wide1 hem or cat-/it* to ! skirt1 & f9i% ) hooks & eyes1 loops1 or any fa/5+ t w secure ! placket4 ,sid5ote3 ,putt+ on ,b& ,! skirt is n[ ready = ! b&1 :i* %\ld be n>r[4 ,always cut p>allel ) ! selvage & ! l5g? ( ! und]lap long] ?an ! wai/ measure1 all[+ = turn+ at ! ends4 ,! b& %\ld nev] be ?ick & clumsy & n too tight4 ,try on ! skirt & fit ! b& c>efully1 m>k+ ! seam ) p9s1 a l9e ( ba/+1 or *alk4 ,hold ! skirt easy on ! b& & ba/e ) small /it*es1 !n /it* on ! ma*9e4 ,if ! skirt is too tight ar\nd ! hips ! plaits w fall ap>t at ! back4 ,if ! skirt is /ret*$ on ! b& ! seams w n fall 9 a /raight l9e4 ,aft] ! b& is securely /it*$ & f9i%$ ) hooks & eyes adju/ ! l5g? by turn+ "u at ! bottom & p9n+1 aft] :i* ba/e all ar\nd & try on aga9 to make sure t ! l5g? is correct4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i%+ ! ,bottom ,a gor$ outside g>m5t %\ld be f9i%$ ) a true bias or a fitt$ fac+1 c>efully /it*$ on4 ,x is possible to f9i% ! bottom ( a simple h\se dress or ?9 skirt ) a hem if ! fullness made by turn+ is dispos$ ( 9 ga!rs or f9e pleats4 ,a bias fac+1 h[ev]1 is always pref]able4 ,if ( heavy or l9$ goods ! f9i% %\ld be velvete5 or braid ! same color z ! skirt4 ,^! b9d+s come 9 diff]5t wid?s & grades4 ,braids %\ld always be %runk5 by wett+ & dry+ ?or\ghly2 "o wett+ is n en\gh4 ,velvete5 %\ld be appli$ loosely1 s z n to %r9k or draw aft] x becomes damp on ! skirt4 ,sid5ote3 ,apply+ ,velvete5 ,b9d+ ,! "r side ( ! velvete5 %\ld be c>efully ba/$ ) small1 ev5 /it*es to ! edge ( ! fac+4 ,x may be hemm$ to ! fac+ or ma*9e /it*$ j inside ! ba/+1 :i* ne$ n be remov$4 ,x is !n turn$1 all[+ a v n>r[ portion to %[ bel[ ! edge1 & ba/$ ) close /it*es1 press$1 hemm$ d[n to ! fac+ by h&1 or cat /it*$ )\t turn+ ! edge4 ,be c>eful n to let ! /it*es %[ on ! "r side1 nor let ! b9d+ twi/ or puck]4 ,! jo9+ ( ! velvete5 %\ld be ne> ! seam 9 ! back4 ,ano!r me?od is to cut (f ! bottom edge ( ! skirt a qu>t] ( an in* f ! turn+ l9e2 apply ! wrong side ( ! velvete5 to ! "r side ( ! skirt1 ba/e c>efully close to ! edge & /it* on ! ma*9e ?r\gh velvete51 clo?1 & l9+ 7or fac+7 j inside ! ba/+ :i* is left 94 ,! bottom ( ! raw edge is turn$ up1 ba/$ close to ! edge all[+ ! velvete5 to %[ a v little4 ,! upp] edge ( ! velvete5 is secur$ z be=e by turn+ & hemm+ or cat/it*$ )\t turn+4 ,! illu/ration %[s ?is me?od ( apply+ ! velvete5 :i* is fir/ /it*$ to ! l9+ & turn$ ) ! edge4 ,?is makes a firm1 r /iff f9i%4 ,sid5ote3 ,braid ,braid is /it*$ on to ! bottom ( a skirt ) a n>r[ edge %[+1 or x may be appli$ l ! velvete51 ) a d\bl$ edge at ! bottom4 ,! d\bl$ edge w we> bett]4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i% ( ,wa% ,skirts ,skirts t are to be wa%$ & !re=e :i* are v likely to %r9k mu/ be f9i%$ at ! bottom ) a wide hem--at lea/ six in*es--! fullness made by turn+ be+ dispos$ ( c>efully 9 pleats or ga!rs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,apply+ ,,velvete5 ,,b9d+ ,if desir$1 ! bias seam d[n ! back ( ! skirt may h a n>r[ wov5 tape or selvage ( ?9 goods /it*$ 9 ) ! seam4 ,?is /r5g!ns ! seam & prev5ts dragg+4 ,! skirt :5 f9i%$ %\ld always be long] 9 front ?an 9 ! back4 ,all clo? dresses dem& e detail ( f9i% to make !m complete & able to /& h>d usage1 b simple h\se dresses & ?9 summ] dresses d n require su* c>eful f9i%4 ,,%irt ,,wai/s ,sid5ote3 ,trace ,seams ,9 plann+ a wai/ ! same rules %\ld be obs]v$ 9 plac+ patt]ns1 etc41 z describ$ = skirts1 except t ! l9es & seams %\ld be trac$ ) a trac+ :eel or m>k$ c>efully4 ,9 mak+ a wai/ ( any k9d c>e mu/ be tak5 to cut all ! pieces ! prop] way ( ! mat]ial4 ,sid5ote3 ,ba/e ,lavi%ly ,! difficulty ( putt+ g>m5ts toge!r aft] !y h be5 cut prop]ly is due to undue ha/e1 lack ( c>e 9 details & insuffici5t press+4 ,! app>5tly simple act ( ba/+ is really ( primal importance1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! mak+ ( a wai/4 ,"o ne$ nev] be afraid ( ba/+ too mu* or too c>efully4 ,economize clo? & "t 9 cutt+1 b use ba/+ lavi%ly4 ,sid5ote3 ,alt]+ ,wai/ ,patt]ns ,! wai/ patt]n may be made %ort] by lay+ folds across bo? back & front4 ,! fold across ! back %\ld be two in*es above ! wai/ l9e & across ! front two in*es bel[ ! arm's eye 79 ! back74 ,securely p9 or ba/e ! folds 9 ! patt]n4 ,if ! patt]n is ( ne>ly ! correct size x may be only necess>y to make ! wai/ %ort] & small]4 ,! neck & arm's eye w seldom ne$ alt]+4 ,! sleeves may be %ort5$ 9 ! same way by lay+ folds 9 ! patt]n1 above & bel[ ! elb[4 ,,plan ,,= ,,mak+ ,a ,,%irt ,,wai/ ,aft] ! wai/ is cut1 remove & c>e = ! patt]ns4 ,make ! sleeves1 cuffs & coll> b& fir/4 ,make box plait on "r or left side z lik$ by ! we>] & hem on ! o!r side or face4 ,ba/e %\ld]s & "u-arm seams4 ,try on ! wai/1 mak+ all *anges necess>y by enl>g+ or tak+ up seams4 ,p9 = neck b& & m>k = seams4 ,fit sleeves & m>k places = seams4 ,arrange fullness & place tape at back ( wai/ l9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,mak+ ,pla9 ,sleeve ,if ! patt]n is = a pla91 "o-seam sleeve ) ! cuff op5+ at ! end ( ! seam1 hem ea* side ( ! op5+ "o or two in*es f ! bottom1 ga!r ! bottom betwe5 ! not*es1 lay ! ga!rs1 ba/e ! "r side ( ! sleeve b& or cuff to ! wrong side ( ! sleeve1 /it* & press1 fold 9 a hem on all edges ( ! cuff1 fold ! cuff ov] on ! wrong side ( ! sleeve1 ba/e1 ov]sew ! ends ( ! cuff1 press & /it* ! cuff close to all edges4 ,aft] ?us atta*+ ! cuff1 ba/e & /it* ! long seam ( ! sleeve & ga!r at ! top betwe5 not*es4 ,! cuff is usually cut 9 ! direction ( ! w>p ( ! goods4 ,! sleeve describ$ is ! simple/ t c be made4 ,if ! sleeve is to op5 at ! back & f9i%$ ) a tape1 ) a placket1 /rap or fancy lap1 ! seam 9 ! sleeve is /it*$ fir/ & ! cuff aft]w>d adju/$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pla9 ,,sleeve ,,) ,,cuff1 ,,%[+ ,,g5]al ,,me?ods ,,( ,,sew+ ,,on ,,b&s ,! box plait is made if desir$ & ! "u arm & %\ld] seams ba/$ :5 ! %irt wai/ is ready to try on4 ,make any *ange 9 ! seams necess>y4 ,! neck b& is put on 9 ! same way z ! cuffs1 sleeves sew$ 91 fullness arrang$ at ! back & a tape plac$ at ! wai/ l9e4 ,?ree hooks or o!r fa/5+s %\ld always be plac$ at ! back to atta* to correspond+ fa/5+s 9 ! skirt b&4 ,! bottom edge ( ! wai/ may be f9i%$ by ov]ca/+4 ,sid5ote3 ,bottom ,f9i% ,if x is desir$ to h ! fullness cut away at ! wai/ l9e 9 front1 det]m9e ! l5g?1 all[+ suffici5t = a bl\se1 ga!r ! wai/ at ! bottom & sew ! fullness on to a b&4 ,sometimes ?is b& is c>ri$ entirely ar\nd ! wai/4 ,sid5ote3 ,fit ( ,coll> ,! fit ( ! coll> or neck b& is v important 9 any k9d ( a wai/4 ,bo? ! front & ! back may be cut high] ?an ! patt]n1 z x is easy to cut (f 9 adju/+ & m goods _c be add$4 ,to ! unskill$ ! simple/ g>m5t is suffici5tly difficult4 ,x is wis] to make two or ?ree p]fectly pla9 g>m5ts be=e attempt+ to make an elaborate "o4 ,aft] ! patt]n has be5 te/$1 fitt$ & all necess>y *anges made1 cut a patt]n f ! fitt$ wai/ ( cambric or *eap new musl9 & m>k or trace all seams4 7,nev] use old1 worn-out %eets f :i* to cut a patt]n47 ,aft] ?is p]man5t patt]n has be5 made1 d n *ange a s+le l9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,tuck$ ,wai/ ,sid5ote3 ,full ,bu/$ ,wai/ ,if a plait$ or tuck$ wai/ is to be made1 all plait+ & tuck+ %\ld be done fir/1 aft] :i* ! same ord] ( mak+ is to be foll[$ = a pla9 wai/4 ,no wai/ %\ld draw or /ra9 across ! bu/4 ,?is is especially important 9 tuck$ or pleat$ wai/s4 ,to gu>d aga9/ ?is t5d5cy1 a graduat$ tuck c be p9n$ on ei!r side ( ! front1 beg9n+ ) no?+ at ! %\ld]s & wid5+ at ! wai/ l9e4 ,?is is done be=e ! patt]n is cut & w all[ = especially full bu/4 ,! fold %\ld be on a ?read ( ! goods4 ,,l9$ ,,wai/s ,! pla91 closely fitt$1 l9$ wai/1 ) ! curv$ back & side =ms is ! mo/ difficult to make & requires ! greate/ nicety 9 h&l+ f beg9n+ to f9i%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,typical ,,bodice ,,patt]ns 7a7 ,front4 7b7 ,"u ,arm ,piece4 7c7 ,side ( ,back4 7d7 ,back4 7e7 ,coll>4 7f7 ,outside ,sleeve4 7g7 ,inside ,sleeve4 ,! patt]n = a bodice ( ?is k9d %\ld be ( su* a %ape t 9 ea* "p ! wo( ?reads w g z /raight ar\nd ! wai/ z possible4 ,?is makes ! w>p ?reads p]p5dicul> & w give almo/ a p]fect bias on ! curr5t seams 9 ! back4 ,d n cut ! side =ms out ( any piece t is big en\gh1 )\t reg>d to ! w>p & wo( ?reads4 ,if ?is is done1 ! ?reads 9 ea* w run diff]5tly & all ways b ! "r "o4 ,9 a well-design$ patt]n ! back =ms %\ld be ne>ly z wide at ! arm's eye z !y are at ! wai/ l9e4 ,! swell ( bu/ & %\ld]s %\ld be accommodat$ by ! back & front =ms4 ,:5 mat]ial is to be cut on ! bias be c>eful to h a true bias 7! diagonal ( a squ>e7 ar\nd ! wai/ & up ! front & back seams4 ,,plan ,,= ,,mak+ ,,fitt$1 ,,l9$ ,,wai/4 ,p9 patt]n to l9+1 cut out trace seams4 ,ba/e all seams on trac$ l9es4 ,try on l9+4 ,make *anges4 ,rip l9+1 ba/e on outside & cut by fitt$ l9+4 ,ba/e seams & try on4 ,make *anges if necess>y4 ,m>k ! turn = hem d[n ! front1 face & m>k = fa/5+s4 ,/it* & f9i% seams4 ,put on fea!rbone4 ,put on coll>2 sew 9 sleeves4 ,f9i%4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i% ,l9+ ,fir/ ,9 mak+ a l9$ wai/1 ! l9+ is cut1 ba/$1 & fitt$ be=e ! outside is cut4 ,aft] fitt+1 ! l9+ is ripp$ ap>t & ! outside cut by x4 ,= all firm1 heavy mat]ials ! l9+ %\ld be slightly full] ?an ! outside1 t is1 ! dress goods %\ld be well /ret*$ ov] ! l9+1 j z 9 a l9$ skirt1 & ba/$ closely & ev5ly1 ! w>p & ! wo( ?reads ( ! outside & l9+ correspond+4 ,9 lay+ ! patt]n = cutt+ ! l9+1 j z mu* att5tion %\ld be paid to ! direction ( ! ?reads z 9 cutt+ a /rip$ or figur$ goods4 ,sid5ote3 ,m>k+ ,seams ,all seams %\ld be trac$ on ! l9+ ) ! trac+ :eel1 ) a sl[ backw>d & =w>d movem5t1 mak+ ! p]=ations cle> & di/9ct4 ,s(t spongy goods t _c be trac$ may be m>k$ ) a l9e ( ba/+1 tailor's *alk or by tak+ /it*es ) a p9 along ! l9e to be m>k$ & twi/+ !m 9 ! goods4 ,?is w make holes t c be se51 b ! twi/+ does n h>m ! goods4 ,always trace or m>k ! wai/ l9e1 z ?is is ! />t+ po9t f :i* to p9 or ba/e4 ,bodice seams %\ld nev] be begun at ! top or bottom1 b at ! m>ks or not*es t %[ ! wai/ l9e1 work+ t[>ds ! top & bottom4 ,aft] ! l9+ is cut out1 ! seams %\ld be ba/$ exactly along ! trac$ l9es1 ) seams out1 :5 x is ready to be tri$ on4 ,sid5ote3 ,mak+ ,*anges 9 ,/raight ,seams ,if ! patt]n has be5 cut or draft$ by ! correct bu/ measure1 ! back seams %\ld nev] be *ang$4 ,if possible1 make all *anges requir$ by lett+ out or tak+ 9 on ! /raight "u-arm seams1 leav+ ! curv$ ones & ! d>ts unt\*$4 ,sid5ote3 ,p9n+ & ,ba/+ ,p9s %\ld be us$ pl5tifully :ile ! fitt+ is be+ done1 b !y %\ld be replac$ ) regul> ba/+ z soon z !y are remov$4 ,d n be afraid ( tak+ up fullness 9 ! l9+ by d>ts crosswise at ! top ( ! corset or :]e ! fullness naturally falls 9 front or back4 ,su* d>ts %\ld be ba/$1 /it*$ & press$ flat4 ,if ! l9+ is too %ort1 x may be l5g!n$ by lett+ out ! %\ld] seams4 ,sid5ote3 ,outside ,cut by ,l9+ ,aft] ! l9+ is fitt$1 x is ripp$ ap>t1 ! outside cut1 ba/$ to x & ! seams are ba/$1 beg9n+ at ! wai/ l9e4 ,nev] use a long ?read 9 ba/+ & always use %ort1 ev5 /it*es1 especially :]e any curv$ seams are to be /it*$ on ! ma*9e4 ,?is rule mu/ be foll[$ inv>iably if puck]+ is to be avoid$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wai/ ,,l9+ ,,ba/$1 ,,seams ,,out ,sid5ote3 ,%\ld] ,seams ,! patt]n at ! %\ld] seams %\ld be %ort] 9 front ?an at ! back4 ,9 jo9+ ?is seam1 p9 ! two portions s t ! ends ( ! seam meet exactly at ! neck & arm's eye4 ,9 ba/+1 /ret* ! front piece to fit ! back1 hold+ x 9 or puck]+ x if ne$ be4 ,press+ w bani% ! puck] & give an easy seam t w hug ! curve ( ! %\ld]1 z 9 a man's coat4 ,sid5ote3 ,fitt+ ,:5 ! wai/ is on ! figure1 pull x well d[n to ! wai/ l9e1 p9 ! front l9+s toge!r beg9n+ ) ! neck1 !n lift ! wai/ a little 9 front to give fullness & p9 to ! wai/ l9e4 ,m>k = ! hem d[n ! front1 f9i% ! edge ) a well-fitt$ fac+ "u :i* is a ?9 bias /rip ( canvas int]l9+ = buttons or hooks & eyes4 ,m>ks %[+ ! position ( fa/5+s %\ld be made at ?is "t4 ,sid5ote3 ,fitt+ ( ,neck & ,sleeves ,! neck & arm's eye %\ld be fitt$ by mak+ sla%es 9 ! curve--nev] cut ar\nd ! curve4 ,= ! coll> or neck b& h a true bias ( ?9 canvas or cr9ol9e & draw x ar\nd ! neck & p9 ) ! ends out1 t[>ds ! work]4 7,nev] lap any edges ( wai/1 belt or coll> :5 fitt+47 ,m>k on ! wai/ :]e ! l[] edge ( ! neck b& t\*es4 ,draw ! sleeve on ! arm1 p9 & m>k :]e x sets "r1 see+ t ! elb[ fullness is 9 ! "r place & t x does n twi/ at ! h&4 ,z 9 ! l9+1 all *anges necess>y 9 fitt+ %\ld1 if possible1 be made 9 ! /raight seams1 z x is difficult to pres]ve ! prop] l9es ( ! curv$ ones4 ,! %\ld] seams %\ld be ! la/ "o to be ba/$4 ,aft] all faults are rem$i$1 ! seams are c>efully /it*$ along ! l9e or ba/+1 ! ba/+s remov$1 ! seams press$ & f9i%$4 ,! la/ seam to be /it*$ securely %\ld be ! "o at ! %\ld]4 ,by leav+ ?is op51 all fullness c be smoo!d upw>ds & any trimm+ c be let into ! seam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,back ,,( ,,wai/1 ,,well ,,mat*$ ,sid5ote3 ,bon+ ,sew 9 fea!rbone by cat /it*+ to ! seam1 fir/ f9i%+ ! ends by button-hol+4 ,all seams %\ld be /ret*$ well :5 sew+ on bones ( any k9d4 ,curv$ seams %\ld be not*$ e "o or two in*es at ! curve & b\nd or ov]ca/4 ,?is all[s !m to lie flat4 ,sid5ote3 ,drap$ ,wai/ ,9 a drap$ wai/ ! l9+ is made sep>ate & n /it*$ into any seam ( ! outside except at ! %\ld]4 ,9 fitt+ ! outside ! back is p9n$ on to ! l9+ firmly1 !n ! front & f9ally at ! und]>m seams4 ,! seams are !n ba/$1 ! wai/ tri$ on aga91 alt]ations made1 if necess>y1 seams /it*$ & ! bottom f9i%$ ) ! l9+1 z desir$4 ,?ree eyes or o!r fa/5+s %\ld always be sew$ at ! seams 9 ! wai/ l9e at ! back to secure ! skirt to ! wai/1 ?us prev5t+ x f s9k+ bel[ ! wai/ l9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i% ( ,bottom ( ,wai/ ,! f9i% ( ! l[] edge ( ! wai/ is (t5 a problem4 ,if ! wai/ is to be worn "u ! skirt1 j h[ to f9i% or :e!r to f9i% x at all is a "q4 ,! fir/ /ep is to trim ! edges ev5ly4 ,a l9e ( /it*+ & simple ov]ca/ w %[ less ?r\gh a close-fitt+ skirt ( light weight mat]ial4 ,:5 b9d+ is us$1 x %\ld lie p]fectly flat1 twice /it*$ & press$ well4 ,if ! wai/ is to be worn outside ! skirt1 a n>r[ bias /rip ( canvas %\ld be ba/$ on ! wrong side1 ! wai/ turn$ up ov] ?is z direct$ = sleeve & coll> f9i%4 ,ov] ?is a bias fac+ ( silk may be hemm$ or cat-/it*$4 ,sid5ote3 ,fitt+ ,irregul>ity ( ,figure ,9 spite ( c>eful measur+ & all c>e 9 cutt+1 ! wai/ may n fit1 ow+ to "s de=mity or peculi>ity ( ! figure4 ,su* figures require especially c>eful fitt+ & ! holl[ place %\ld be fill$ out ) wadd+4 ,?is ne$s to be done ) ! greate/ c>e & nicety4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mak+ ,,bias ,,/rips ,,= ,,fac+s ,avoid too frequ5t fitt+s4 ,! bias portions ( ! bodice are liable to /ret* out ( %ape & too mu* h&l+ ( ! wai/ takes away ! fre%ness4 ,?is is "o reason :y x is advisable to make ! sleeves & coll> fir/ 9 ord] t ! :ole wai/ may be fitt$ at once & all alt]ations made to fit bo? sides4 ,a p]fect figure is ! exception r ?an ! rule & ! side t is n develop$ %\ld be well fitt$1 :e!r sleeve or bodice4 ,,coat ,,or ,,tight ,,fitt+ ,,sleeves ,sid5ote3 ,alt]+ ,patt]ns ,if x is necess>y to l5g!n ! sleeve1 say two in*es1 cut ! patt]n at "r angles to ! l9es indicat$ by ! dots1 above & bel[ ! elb[4 ,! sla%+ %\ld be done exactly at ! same di/ance ap>t 9 ! upp] & "u portions ( ! sleeve 9 ord] to reta9 ! prop] %ape & size ( ! top & bottom4 ,sep>ate ! p>ts1 all[+ "o in* above & "o in* bel[ ! elb[4 ,to %ort5 ! sleeve1 lap ! sla%$ "p or lay a fold 9 ! patt]n in/ead ( sla%+4 ,9 ei!r case1 c>e %\ld be tak5 t ! fold or lap is ( ev5 wid? all ! way across1 s t ! orig9al %ape ( ! sleeve w n be lo/4 ,sid5ote3 ,plac+ ( ,patt]ns ,too mu* c>e _c be tak5 9 arrang+ ! patt]n ( ! sleeve accord+ to ! ?read ( ! goods4 ,especially is ?is ! case 9 ! two-piece or coat sleeve4 ,g5]ally ! top "p ( ! outside seam & ! l[] "p ( ! same side %\ld be plac$ at ! edge or fold ( ! goods1 s t ! two run 9 ! same /raight l9e4 ,9 all cases1 ! f\ndation sleeve or l9+ %\ld be cut & fitt$ be=e ! out] portion is adju/$4 ,ample "t %\ld be giv5 to ! fitt+ & ba/+ ( ! sleeve4 ,! set ( ! sleeve is v (t5 unsatisfactory because ! cutt+ & orig9al ba/+ 0 done 9 a c>eless mann]4 ,rememb] t great] c>e is requir$ 9 sleeve mak+ ?an 9 any "p ( ! g>m5t4 ,ea* sleeve is complete 9 itself & "o mu/ n deviate f ! o!r 9 size1 arrangem5t or ornam5t1 or g5]al appe>ance4 ,!y %\ld be cut1 ba/$ & fitt$ alike & if ! arms diff] 9 size or l5g? ! sleeves mu/ be s adju/$ z to conceal ! inequality4 ,! sleeves %\ld be made at ! same "t & be=e ! cuffs1 !n ! cuffs1 puffs1 or :atev] special trimm+ is to be appli$ to !m %\ld be put on bo? sleeves at ! same "t4 ,if ! second sleeve is n made or trimm$ until aft] ! fir/ is f9i%$1 x w be mu* m difficult to secure exactly ! same effect4 ,if x is impossible to complete bo? sleeves at "o "t1 make ! sleeves "o day & ! cuffs or trimm+ ! next day4 ,9 mak+ ! coat sleeves ! g5]al me?ods are ! same1 b ea* season br+s out new /yles :i* ! mak] w h to und]/& be=e prop] mak+ & f9i%+ c be acquir$4 ,always ma/] ! simple & /&>d patt]ns & ! m9or *anges dictat$ by fa%ion--new fancies & effects--w n be difficult to acquire aft] a little exp]i5ce has be5 ga9$4 ,! l9+ = bo? sleeves %\ld be fitt$ & ! outside cut by !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,jo9+ ! ,p>ts ,aft] economical cutt+1 trace ! seams c>efully1 & ba/e ! outside to ! l9+1 ba/+ bo? upp]s be=e ! "u sections4 ,jo9 ! "u & upp] p>ts by p9n+ & ba/+1 ! outside seam fir/1 beg9n+ 9 ! middle ( ! sleeve & work+ t[>d ea* end4 ,! outside seams %\ld be begun at ! not* at ! elb[1 work+ t[>d ea* end4 ,:]e ! sleeve calls = ga!r+ ! fullness %\ld be di/ribut$ betwe5 ! not*es & ! two portions ( ! sleeve %\ld be secur$ at ?is po9t1 be=e or aft] ba/+ ! upp] or l[] portions ( ea* sleeve4 ,illu/ration3 ,,f9i%+ ,,( ,,seams ,not*$ at ,curves & ,b\nd or ,ov]ca/4 ,/it* ! seams j outside ! ba/+1 !n remove ! l9e ( ba/+ along ! seam & press4 ,trim (f all r\gh edges4 ,! inside seam is op5$ & not*$ at ! b5d ( ! elb[ & an in* or two above & bel[ & b\nd ) silk b9d+ ribbon or ev5ly ov]ca/ ) twi/ or m]c]iz$ cotton4 ,sid5ote3 ,add+ ,cuffs ,if an elaborate cuff or trimm+ is to be add$ to ! sleeve1 :e!r full or pla91 x %\ld be made sep>ately & bl9d /it*$ to ! fac$ sleeve4 ,9 case ! sleeve is ga!r$ ! fullness c be put into a n>r[ b&1 ! exact size ( ! cuff1 ! cuff !n sew$ on ! b&4 ,sid5ote3 ,putt+ 9 ,sleeves ,9 putt+ ! sleeve 9 ! armhole1 be sure t bo? seams are at ! same po9t1 t bo? h ! same am\nt ( fullness at ! top1 & t ! plaits or ga!rs are equally di/ribut$ f front to back4 ,! sleeve %\ld be held next to ! work] & %\ld lie easy f seam to seam at ! "u arm4 ,ba/e ) close1 ev5 /it*es or back /it* ) co>se cotton or twi/ ! same color z ! wai/4 ,/it* 9 ! sleeves on ?is l9e ( ba/+1 keep+ ! armholes curv$ :ile ! /it*+ is be+ done4 ,trim (f edges & f9i% ) b9d+ or close ov]ca/+4 ,! mo/ c>eful b9d+ is clumsy comp>$ to ! ov]ca/ f9i%4 ,turn ! seam t[>d ! %\ld] & hem to ! l9+ ov] ! %\ld]s4 ,?is w d away ) ! /&-up look t sleeves sometimes h4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i% at ,wri/ ,= ! sleeve f9i%$ pla9ly ar\nd ! wri/1 a piece ( bias cr9ol9e %\ld be fitt$ at ! h&4 ,to d ?is1 turn ! sleeve "r side out & slip ! cr9ol9e 9 ! sleeve ov] ! left h& & adju/ by mov+ ! f+]s until ! cr9ol9e %apes itself to ! sleeve p]fectly1 !n p9 & ba/e at ! top & bottom4 ,9 ?is way ! cr9ol9e w be nei!r too %ort nor too loose & all wr9kl+ w be prev5t$4 ,turn ! sleeve inside out & cut (f ! cr9ol9e "o-f\r? ( an in* f ! edge1 keep+ a p]fectly true edge1 turn ! sleeve ov] ! cr9ol9e1 ba/e ! outside "p ( ! sleeve & cat-/it* to ! cr9ol9e1 !n cat-/it* ! cr9ol9e to ! l9+4 ,remove ! l[] ba/+ & press4 ,a bias /rip ( silk suffici5tly wide to cov] ! cr9ol9e is hemm$ at ! l[] edge & to ! sleeve l9+ j above ! int]l9+4 ,:5ev] x is possible to d s use ! cat-/it*4 ,x is a neat f9i%1 easily & quickly done1 takes less "t ?an hemm+1 besides be+ less bulky4 ,if ! bottom ( a coat sleeve is to be left op5 at ! back or sla%$1 an int]fac+ ( light weight canvas w be necess>y4 ,turn ! outside portion ( ! sleeve ov] ! canvas1 c>e be+ tak5 to turn all corn]s at ! sla%1 & curves1 press & /it*1 face aft] ! /it*+ is done4 ,x may be /it*$ bett] if ! back seam is left op54 ,sid5ote3 ,press+ ,sleeves ,9 ! coat sleeve bo? seams are curv$ & %\ld be press$ on a curv$ bo>d4 ,a rock+ *air inv]t$1 ) ! rock] cov]$ ) s(t clo?1 makes a good bo>d on :i* to press ! curv$ seams ( a sleeve4 ,,coll>s ,! %ap$1 /&+ coll> is worn ) wai/s ( all k9ds & is always a popul> neck f9i%4 ,9 a close-fitt+ coll> made ( heavy mat]ial an int]l9+ ( canvas or cr9ol9e is necess>y4 ,! int]l9+ %\ld be cut "o-f\r? ( an in* small] all ar\nd if ! coll> is to be bl9d /it*$ to ! wai/4 ,if x is to be sew$ to ! neck1 9 a seam1 ! l9+ %\ld be ! same size z ! coll> at ! neck4 ,ba/e ?is int]l9+ to ! coll> mat]ial1 cut out ! corn]s ( ! mat]ial1 & hem ! ext5d$ portion to ! int]l9+4 ,! int]l9+ %\ld always be cut bias1 :e!r ! outside is bias or /raight4 ,hem ! coll> l9+ to ! coll>4 ,sid5ote3 ,putt+ on ,coll>s ,to sew ! coll> to ! neck ( ! g>m5t1 fir/ p91 beg9n+ at ! back seam & ba/e t[>ds ! end4 ,! l9+ may be left free at ! l[] edge & fell$ ov] ! neck edge aft] ! coll> has be5 /it*$ to ! g>m5t1 or ! l9+ may be /it*$ 9 ! seam1 ! seam press$ op5 & a bias fac+ ( silk or light weight mat]ial hemm$ on ov] ! seam4 ,! beauty ( coll>s & cuffs dep5ds l>gely ^u ! exact turn+ ( corn]s & f9i% ( ends4 ,^! %\ld nev] be left bulky or clumsy4 ,if pref]r$1 ! l9+ & outside ( coll> may be seam$ & turn$4 ,place ! "r sides ( outside & l9+ toge!r1 ! int]l9+ next to ! l9+1 /it* ar\nd bo? ends & top ( coll>1 !n turn & press4 ,^! rules may be foll[$ 9 mak+ sailor or any l9$ coll>s4 ,coll>s made ( all ov] embroid]y %\ld be fac$ ) tape on ! wrong side be=e ! trimm+ is appli$ to cov] ! edge ( ruffle or lace4 ,! pla9 or %irt wai/ patt]n w d duty = _m g>m5ts--corset cov]1 night dress1 dress+ jacket1 etc4 ,! upp] "p ( ! wai/ w answ] = yoke patt]n ( diff]5t %apes4 ,,seamless ,,yokes ,sid5ote3 ,patt]n = ,yoke ,to make a patt]n = a seamless yoke ba/e toge!r ! %\ld] seams ( ! fitt$ wai/ patt]n1 place ! upp] "p ( ! patt]n on cambric or /iff pap]1 ) ! front ( wai/ on /raight edge or fold ( pap]1 trace ! %ape ( ! neck yoke any desir$ dep? bel[ ! neck l9e4 ,! l[] edge c be cut 9 any %ape1 ! neck ei!r high or l[1 r\nd or squ>e4 ,?is p]fectly fitt$ yoke patt]n c be us$ = a f\ndation = lace1 velvet1 ribbon1 net1 or any ?9 mat]ial4 ,! circul> yoke made ( lace & ribbon or bias /rips c be made to op5 9 front or back4 ,! /rips ( ins]t+ & ribbon %\ld be ba/$ on ! pap] patt]n & jo9$ by fancy /it*es or ov] sew$4 ,! p>ts next ! neck w ne$ to be held full] ?an ! outside curve ( ! ins]t+4 ,all yokes to be worn "u ! g[n %\ld be made on a well-fitt$ l9+4 ,nev] tru/ to p9n+1 ba/+1 or hook+ ! yoke to ! wai/4 ,! f9i% ( coll>1 cuffs1 girdle & placket are hallm>ks ( good dressmak+4 ,well f9i%$ ends & corn]s1 ! c>eful adju/m5t ( fa/5+s1 %ields c>efully fitt$ to ! arm's eye & caught smoo?ly to ! l9+--all ^! are little ?+s t c\nt = m ?an money sp5t 9 exp5sive ornam5t4 ,,press+ ,sid5ote3 ,press+ ,bo>d ,! success ( ! f9i% ( e g>m5t dep5ds ^u ! press+1 :e!r ! mat]ial be heavy or light1 cotton or wool4 ,g>m5ts are always press$ on ! wrong side1 :5 be+ made4 ,! iron us$ %\ld nei!r be too hot nor too heavy & ! "w %\ld be done on a p]fectly smoo?1 well-cov]$ bo>d4 ,= press+ black or d>k clo?1 ! cov] ( ! bo>d %\ld be d>k & free f l9t1 :ile a p]fectly clean light cov] %\ld be sub/itut$ :5 :ite or light goods are to be press$4 ,sid5ote3 ,plac+ ! ,iron ,! :ole face ( an iron %\ld nev] be put d[n on a seam or any "p ( a wai/1 b ! side or po9t %\ld be us$1 c>e be+ tak5 n to /ret* a curv$ seam4 ,a small roll+ p91 a broom /ick1 a *air rock]1 or any r\nd$ /ick well cov]$ c be us$ = press+ curv$ seams or sleeves4 ,?is less5s ! dang] ( m>k+ ! seams on ! "r side4 ,^! are only make%ifts2 a regul> half r\nd sleeve b\nd %\ld be obta9$ if mu* "w is to be done4 ,9 press+1 ! iron %\ld nev] be %ov$ or pu%$1 z 9 iron+4 ,only heavy mat]ials require great /r5g?4 ,x is possible to press too mu* z well z too little4 ,:atev] ! mat]ial1 press+ is "w t requires to be done c>efully & sl[ly4 ,all[ ! iron to t\* only ! c5t] ( ! seam1 ! edges ( ! seam w n !n be outl9$ ^u ! goods4 ,pil$ goods require inf9ite c>e4 ,uncut velvet1 crape1 etc41 %\ld nev] be press$ ) ! iron flat on ! seam4 ,! seam %\ld be op5$ c>efully & ov] ! r\nd$ surface ( ! bo>d1 cov]$ ) v s(t cotton flannel into :i* ! pile c s9k )\t be+ flatt5$4 ,run ! iron ) ! pile1 or ! iron may be plac$ on ! side or flat end & ! seams drawn sl[ly along ! edge ( ! iron ! same way ! pile runs--only ! edge ( ! iron t\*+ ! edge ( ! seam4 ,cord$ seams %\ld be press$ 9 ! same way to avoid flatt5+ ! cord4 ,sid5ote3 ,wet ,press+ ,v heavy clo?s & *9*illa %\ld h a small /ream ( wat] c>ri$ along ! seam1 foll[$ by ! iron2 or ! seam may be damp5$ by a s(t clo?--v wet4 ,?is is ! wet press+ us$ by tailors1 :i* is adapt$ to ! requirem5ts ( mat]ials us$ by !m1 su* z s]ge1 twe$s1 etc4 ,press+ on ! "r side "u a damp clo? is apt to give m>ks if ! clo? gets too dry or if ! iron is too hot1 b is necess>y on f9i%$ wool g>m5ts4 ,silk scor*es easily & %\ld be press$ v c>efully ) a cool iron1 light 9 weight4 ,"s light colors fade or *ange 9 press+4 ,try a piece ( ! goods be=e press+ ! g>m5t4 ,if ! color does n come back :5 cold or :5 expos$ to ! light1 d n use a hot iron on ! g>m5t4 ,,con/ruction ,,& ,,ornam5t ,,= ,,dress ,sid5ote3 ,pr9ciples ( ,ornam5t ,_m ( ! pr9ciples gov]n+ ar*itecture & art apply equally z well to art 9 dress4 ,bo? 9 ar*itecture & dress1 con/ruction %\ld be decorat$--decoration %\ld nev] be purposely con/ruct$4 ,x is by ! ornam5t ( a build+ t "o c judge m truly ( ! creative p[] :i* ! arti/ has br\ght to be> ^u 8 "w4 ,! g5]al proportion may be good1 ! m\ld+s accurate1 b ! in/ant ornam5t is attempt$1 ! ar*itect or ! dressmak] reveals h[ mu* ( an arti/ he is4 ,to put ornam5t 9 ! "r place--:]e x s]ves a purpose--is inde$ difficult2 to r5d] t ornam5t at ! same "t an add$ beauty & an expression ( ! desir$ unity is f> m difficult4 ,sid5ote3 ,purpose ( ,ornam5t ,all decoration %\ld be plann$ to enri*--n to ass]t4 ,all jewelry or ornam5t %\ld =m a note 9 ! g5]al h>mony ( color--a decorative t\* to add beauty & to be subord9at$ to ! object decorat$4 ,x %\ld s]ve ! purpose ( seem+ to /r5g!n ! :ole or to protect ! p>ts receiv+ mo/ we>4 ,ornam5t is ev]y:]e attempt$4 ,we see ornam5t at e turn--good & bad alike--9 our homes1 on clo!s1 l951 & kit*5 ut5sils4 ,c>lyle tells u t ,! fir/ want ( b>b>\s man is decoration4 ,we h no record ( :5 ?is ne$ 0 felt fir/4 ,primitive man aft] supply+ 8 actual ne$s1 seem$ to develop a long+ = ! beautiful1 s he ornam5t$ 8 own body1 scrat*$ rude patt]ns on 8 tools & weapons & gradually develop$ ! arti/ic s5se4 ,?is love ( ornam5t dates back to ! beg9n+s ( ! human race & !re are no records ( a race or a p]iod devoid ( x4 ,sid5ote3 ,errors 9 ,ornam5tation ,we see g[ns totally lack+ 9 good results because too mu* has be5 attempt$4 ,! we>] has n consid]$ ! effect z a :ole1 b has gratifi$ h] lik+ = a multiplicity ( ornam5ts & color :i*1 p]haps w\ld be good 9 !mselves1 if appli$ sep>ately1 b :i* becomes an incongru\s mixture :5 br\ght toge!r on "o g>m5t4 ,g>m5ts :i* seem to h requir$ great ef=t 9 ! mak+ & :i* appe> complex 9 con/ruction %\ld be avoid$1 = ! effect is n pleas+4 ,! g[n %\ld set (f ! we>]1 n ! we>] ! g[n4 ,to avoid committ+ errors aga9/ good ta/e x is ess5tial fir/ to consid] ! use ( any g>m5t & see if x answ]s ! purpose = :i* x 0 design$4 ,if any "p appe>s mean+less1 ?is is a sure indication t x is want+ 9 grace & beauty4 ,! ornam5t %\ld h>monize ) ! mat]ials1 use1 & con/ruction ( ! object to :i* x is appli$4 ,! color mu/ be mass$ ) effect & detail$ ) c>e4 ,sid5ote3 ,embroid]y ,!re c be no ornam5tation equal to t :i* is work$ into ! mat]ial1 su* z embroid]y4 ,! design %\ld be appropriate 9 =m & color & always conv5tional4 ,fl[]s are us$ mo/ frequ5tly = embroid]y & passem5t]ie & ! simple1 s+le fl[]s are ! mo/ effective1 su* z ! daisy1 ! wild rose1 & ! fl[]s ( ! lily family4 ,^! simple fl[]s are ! be/ because !y radiate f a c5tral po9t1 h /rong =ms & decid$ proportions1 c be mo/ fully express$ 9 a few /it*es requir+ ! fewe/ %ades ( color1 & are admirably adapt$ = amateur work]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,fl[]s z ,ornam5t ,old ,indian /uffs1 jewelry1 & enamels are ri* 9 sugge/ions ( conv5tionaliz$ fl[]s4 ,! simple1 s+le fl[]s are repeat$ con/antly1 ! daisy appe>+ to be ! favorite 9 ^! beautiful ornam5ts4 ,! mo/ beautiful ( all conv5tional fl[] "w1 jewel /udd$1 is f\nd 9 samples ( "w ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,!y simply sugge/ ! =ms ( nature4 ,! repetition ( ! same fl[] 9 all its aspects is m pleas+ & less tiresome to ! eye ?an a v>iety ( fl[]s or figures4 ,sid5ote3 ,geometrical ,designs ,we f9d ^u analysis t ! simple =ms are ! basis ( all decorative art "w4 ,geometrical designs & arabesques are ! mo/ difficult1 requir+ ! mo/ exact+ & c>eful "w4 ,n>r[ b&s1 braid$1 outl9$1 or *a9-/it*$ 9 simple designs are effective1 easily done1 & we> well4 ,braids & any ( ^! /it*es may be comb9$1 mak+ durable & effective trimm+ = sleeves & neck4 ,^! simple designs are also appropriate = *ildr5's frocks4 ,! ,fr5* knots are ornam5tal & durable4 ,all embroid]y & passem5t]ie %\ld be ri*1 close1 & cont9u\s4 ,x %\ld n be cut up into pieces & sew$ on :]e x does n s]ve1 or appe> to s]ve1 a purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,passem5t]ie ,,( ,,good ,,design ,illu/ration3 ,,poor ,,design1 ,,weak ,,connection ,sid5ote3 ,passem5t]ie ,!re is v little passem5t]ie t is at all suitable = =m+ edges1 z x is n suffici5tly sub/antial1 b :5 x c be f\nd firm & ( ! "r %ade x is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful ornam5ts to edge neck & sleeves4 ,x may be all[$ to ext5d beyond ! dress mat]ial1 s t ! fle% t9ts may %[ ?r\gh ! design1 ?us gradually s(t5+ ! outl9e4 ,(t5 a n>r[ passem5t]ie c be f\nd ) "o /rong edge & a good bord] c be made by jo9+ ! two4 ,?is _c be done :]e ! patt]n is unit$ by a b& runn+ ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! ornam5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,jo9+ ,,n>r[ ,,passem5t]ie ,,to ,,=m ,a ,,bord] ,sid5ote3 ,b&s ,a b& ( velvet or clo? embroid]$ 9 outl9e /it* & ,fr5* knots ( same %ade z ! g>m5t is a satisfactory edge4 ,except = yokes1 ! knots %\ld always be held toge!r ) ! outl9e edge4 ,! ri* silk braids & passem5t]ies are made ( silk w\nd or wov5 ov] cotton & %\ld be us$ only on dresses :i* are n int5d$ = h>d we>4 ,su* trimm+s are1 ( c\rse1 inappropriate on s]ges & homespuns & soon become %abby if giv5 mu* r\gh s]vice4 ,sid5ote3 ,use ( ,laces ,laces1 l all trimm+s1 h def9$ limits )9 :i* !y %\ld be us$1 ?\gh !y are (t5 worn indiscrim9ately4 ,ma*9e made laces1 (t5 good 9 make & design1 are n[ v common1 b ! be/ ma*9e-made laces are n *eap 9 price4 ,sid5ote3 ,design ( ,lace ,h&some lace %\ld be appli$ r pla9ly1 z ! patt]n is (t5 lo/ 9 ! ga!rs4 ,f9e laces are out ( h>mony ) heavy or co>se mat]ials4 ,:5 lace is desir$ = fl\nces t ) runn+ patt]ns :i* nei!r advance nor retreat1 except 9 ! folds :i* may be made1 w be f\nd mo/ pleas+4 ,di/9ct objects1 su* z baskets1 cr[ns1 vases1 etc41 :i* sugge/ weight1 are unsuitable patt]ns = s light a fabric z lace4 ,sid5ote3 ,plac+ ( ,decorations ,att5tion to details is ess5tial 9 ! plac+ ( ^! decorations1 z 9 ! selection or mak+ ( !m4 ,! work] %\ld take into consid]ation ! %ape & size ( ! b&s or pieces ( trimm+ & %\ld note c>efully ! *ief *>act]i/ics ( ! design & above all ! junction ( leaves1 fl[]s1 arabesques1 especially 9 ! f9i%+ ( ! corn]s ( coll>s & cuffs4 ,sid5ote3 ,simplicity & ,h>mony ,^? at all skillful ) ! use ( ! ne$le c atta9 ! mo/ beautiful & arti/ic results if "r laws 9 color & design are adh]$ to1 ev5 by ! use ( ! simple/ /it*es1 = ! beauty ( dress lies n s mu* 9 ! ri*ness & v>iety ( mat]ial us$ z ^u simplicity & h>mony--a fact too (t5 disreg>d$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,b[ ,p]haps no ornam5t is m abus$ ?an ! b[4 ,9 ord] n to appe> intrusive1 ribbons require ! mo/ delicate h&l+4 ,! only excuse = a ribbon z an ornam5t is :5 x makes a pret5se ( ty+4 ,:5 us$ z a sa% :]e folds or ga!rs are conf9$1 ! tone ( ! ribbon %\ld1 9 g5]al1 v>y sc>cely f t ( ! dress4 ,sid5ote3 ,fitness ( ,place ,:atev] ! ornam5t us$1 :e!r embroid]$ b&1 a ribbon1 a cord t laces1 a diamond p91 or a jewel$ buckle1 ?\gh x may possess great intr9sic value & beauty1 x _c be consid]$ ( real wor? z an ornam5t unless x fulfills ! mo/ important condition--fitness ( place4 ,al?\gh ! art ( dress admits ( innum]able v>iations1 l all o!r arts x is subject to ! ?ree rules ( beauty--ord]1 proportion & h>mony4 ,ornam5ts are appropriate on ! hems or edges ( g>m5ts :]e x s]ves ! purpose ( /r5g!n+ & protect+ ! p>ts mo/ worn1 & n simply :]e fancy or fa%ion dictates4 ,sid5ote3 ,natural ,c5t]s ,! natural fa/5+s & fold c5t]s %\ld be along ! axis or c5t] ( ! body4 ,any jewelry1 buckle1 broo*1 or ornam5t us$ to fa/51 secure1 or /r5g!n ^! c5t]s or to hold b&s ( embroid]y1 coll>1 or folds toge!r %\ld be suffici5tly /rong to s]ve ! purpose4 ,!re mu/ be a reason = position & ! purpose ( its use mu/ be app>5t to satisfy ! eye4 ,! eye is unconsci\sly & irresi/ibly drawn to ^! natural c5t]s & dem&s "s object !re on :i* to re/--"s sub/ance f :i* ! fold emanate--"s reason = _! det5tion4 ,if ?is ornam5t at ! ?roat or wai/ fa/5+ coll> or hold+ folds by a girdle or clasp is omitt$1 ! eye is disappo9t$4 ,?is does n mean t ! ornam5t1 jewel1 passem5t]ie1 or embroid]y %\ld always be plac$ 9 ! axis or c5tral l9e ( ! figure--?is may be c>ri$ too f>4 ,slight irregul>ities (t5 give an effect to hat or g[n t is *>m+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,passem5t]ie ,,cov]+ ,,fac+ ,sid5ote3 ,trimm+ ,rememb] t trimm+ is n int5d$ to cov] up1 b to beautify & /r5g!n4 ,:51 = economy's sake1 x is us$ to cov] worn places or o!r defects1 x mu/ be select$ & appli$ ) great c>e or x w l\dly proclaim its mission4 ,sid5ote3 ,unity 9 ,dress ,trimm+ %\ld mean some?+--:e!r jewelry or passem5t]ie4 ,b&s t b9d no?+1 /raps1 b[s1 buckles1 or p9s t conf9e no?+ (f5d ! ta/e4 ,a girdle %\ld seem1 ev5 if x does n1 to belt 9 fullness2 x has no use on a close-fitt+1 pla9 wai/4 ,no drap]ies %\ld be invisibly held2 supply "s app>5t means ( conf9+ ! ga!rs4 ,to pres]ve ! l9es ( ! figure !re %\ld be unity 9 ! dress4 ,a tight-fitt+ skirt bel[ a ga!r$ wai/ or a full1 ga!r$ skirt bel[ a pla9 wai/ gives ! appe>ance ( two portions ( ! body in/ead ( ! on5ess desir$4 ,! figure %\ld nev] be cut across1 ei!r above or bel[ ! wai/-l9e ) contra/+ colors1 diff]5t %ades ( ! same color1 or b&s ( diff]5t texture4 ,bel[ ! wai/-l9e ! figure %\ld sugge/ ! elem5ts ( /r5g? & ^! horizontal b&s cut ! l9es ( ! figure at an angle ( opposition1 de/roy+ ! rhy?m & grace ( ! l9es4 ,mu* exp]i5ce is requir$ 9 plac+ horizontal l9es ( ornam5t on a skirt effectively4 ,9 g5]al1 r[s ( tucks or ornam5t %\ld dim9i% 9 wid? f ! bottom t[>ds ! top4 ,! pla9 spaces %\ld be great] ?an ^? ornam5t$4 ,:5 ornam5t gives absolute ev5ness ( space division 9 skirt or wai/ ! effect is apt to be monoton\s & unsatisfactory4 ,! natural places ( support = g>m5ts are ! neck1 %\ld]s & wai/4 ,ornam5tation :i* emanates f ^! c5t]s or :5 us$ = bord]s1 if appropriate 9 design1 is usually successful4 ,,ornam5t ,,( ,,textiles ,9 addition to ornam5t add$ to g>m5t1 ! ornam5t 9 ! textile itself mu/ be consid]$4 ,sid5ote3 ,appropriate ,designs ,textiles may be beautiful 9 weave1 b spoil$ by ! design4 ,q z important z intr9sic beauty is appropriat5ess ( patt]n4 ,h[ (t5 d we see wov5 on our curta9s1 c>pets1 & g>m5t mat]ials fans1 bun*es ( roses ti$ ) ribbons--b[s ) long1 flutt]+ ends--l&scapes1 sn[ sc5es1 etc4 ,no?+ is beautiful out ( its place4 ,a fan sugge/s coolness & grace ( motion1 b wov5 9 our textiles x gives ! same impression z a butt]fly m\nt$ on a p9--some?+ p]v]t$1 imprison$1 or robb$ ( its natural use4 ,no?+ is or ev] c be beautiful )\t use--)\t h>mony4 ,decorations on textiles are n to tell /ories4 ,!re is a diff]5ce betwe5 l&scape pa9t+ & us+ l&scapes z a motive = decorat+ textiles or pott]y4 ,9 "o case ! aim is to annihilate surface by produc+ ! impression ( di/ance2 9 ! o!r1 ! object is to glorify ! surface only4 ,sid5ote3 ,advantage ( ,pla9 ,mat]ial ,= ! woman ( limit$ income x is wis] to select pla9 mat]ial ( good texture & weave4 ,su* mat]ial is nev] conspicu\s1 c be made ov]1 & is always re/ful & may be int]e/+4 ,any good textile mu/ impress itself ^u ! m9d by its sugge/iv5ess & beauty ( color4 ,!re is a diff]5ce betwe5 :at may be call$ arti/ic & decorative embelli%m5t ( textiles4 ,ea* has its place 9 ! _w ( beauty1 b "o is ! poetry1 ! o!r ! prose ( ! art4 ,sid5ote3 ,/ripes ,!re is a dignity & re/fulness 9 pla9 mat]ial :i* is nev] obta9$ by v>i$ patt]ns4 ,:5 a /ripe is us$ to v>y ! mat]ial1 ! /yle ( ! textile is *ang$1 elongat$ if ! /ripe is v]tical1 & wid5+ if x is horizontal4 ,if ! ma9 /ripe is cut at "r angles ) a second /ripe1 ! textile appe>s m complicat$ & repose is lo/4 ,! same is true ( *ecks1 b no patt]n is m di/ract+ ?an l>ge plaids1 especially :5 us$ = wai/s1 because ! regul>ity ( ! design r5d]s v conspicu\s any inequalities 9 ! %\ld]s or bu/1 & ! great v>iety ( colors detracts f ! dignity ( ! dress4 ,) small *ecks & n>r[1 self-color$ /ripes ! effect is diff]5t1 caus+ ! texture to appe> only %ad$ & n de/roy+ ! unity4 ,sid5ote3 ,conv5tionaliz$ ,designs ,on g>m5t fabrics ! ornam5tation %\ld be flat1 )\t %ad[ or relief4 ,! patt]n mu/ enhance & n m> ! figure4 ,if fl[]s1 foliage1 or o!r natural objects are us$ = ! designs1 !y %\ld be conv5tionaliz$--n direct copies ( nature4 ,a figur$ textile requires m c>eful plann+ ?an pla9 mat]ial4 ,x may be beautiful :5 us$ prop]ly1 b x w appe> hide\s if di/ort$ 9 ! mak+4 ,a conv5tional fleur-de-lis patt]n1 or a long da% :i* appe>s & disappe>s :5 us$ 9 long1 graceful folds1 adds to ! app>5t height4 ,^! same figures wrongly us$ spread out awkw>dly or become di/ort$4 ,sid5ote3 ,size ( ,design ,! size ( ! design %\ld be regulat$ by ! mat]ial--small patt]ns be+ us$ = close1 ?ick fabrics & l>g] designs1 ) m delicate colors1 = ?9 mat]ial ( op5 texture4 ,?ick1 heavy fabrics require ri*1 w>m colors & ! patt]n likewise %\ld be ri* & decorative4 ,velvets1 velvete5s1 & heavy clo?s = dresses are beautiful 9 !mselves & %\ld n be m>r$ by patt]ns or trimm+s4 ,spirals or curv$ l9es runn+ crosswise on textiles di/ort ! natural curves ( ! figure by mak+ seem+ undulations :]e none %\ld be & acc5tuat+ ! prom95ce ( hips & bu/4 ,su* patt]ns %\ld n be us$ 9 folds4 ,,color ,sid5ote3 ,texture & ,color ,mu* is to be consid]$ 9 *oos+ colors & x is folly to sugge/ a p>ticul> %ade = a p]son )\t tak+ into acc\nt texture ( ! textile4 ,?\gh ! color may be good1 ! weave may de/roy :at might o!rwise h be5 a success4 ,n only mu/ color 9 itself be /udi$1 b quality ( color 9 textiles z well4 ,a %ade ( r$1 = example1 9 dull silk or lu/]less mat]ial may be mo/ unbecom+ = a woman ( a c]ta9 type1 :ile x may be worn successfully if made 9 ri* velvet or glossy silk4 ,"s wom5 ma9ta9 t !y _c we> gre51 b ne>ly all c dress becom+ly 9 ?is color if ! %ade & texture is select$ c>efully4 ,! same may be said ( o!r colors = ! _m v>iations %\ld be tak5 into consid]ation4 ,! av]age woman 9 select+ mat]ials = g[ns or h\se furni%+s is apt to be influ5c$ too mu* by details1 z %e w\ld judge ! m]its ( a f9e piece ( ne$lework1 h5ce ! value ( good1 broad color s*emes fails to appeal to h]4 ,! *5ille curta91 p]haps1 suits h] because x is full ( complex decoration4 ,sid5ote3 ,h>mony ,n ,contra/ ,aft] hav+ det]m9$ ! prevail+ color ( a co/ume1 ! details %\ld be 9 h>mony1 r ?an 9 contra/ ) x4 ,diff]5t tones ( "o color are m satisfactory ?an /rik+ contra/s1 & ev5 /rong pat*es ( light & %ade ( ! same color %\ld be avoid$1 z well z pat*es ( crude & vivid color4 ,! pleas+ contra/s f\nd 9 nature cease to be happy :5 attempt$ 9 textiles4 ,use few colors1 avoid bright %ades except 9 small quantities4 ,all bright colors %\ld be plac$ ne> ! face1 r ?an on or ne> ! bottom ( skirts or ! edge ( sleeves4 ,avoid /rong contra/s2 ! bright] ! color & ! great] ! contra/ ) o!r colors1 ! l\d] & crud] w be ! effect4 ,no color h>mony is ( a high ord] unless x involve indescribable t9ts4 ,,*ildr5',s ,,clo!s ,sid5ote3 ,infants' ,clo?+ ,pla9ness1 purity1 s(tness ( texture r ?an elaborate ornam5t %\ld be ! ma9 consid]ation = infants' clo!s4 ,! f9e/ & s(te/ ( ,fr5* & ,scot* flannels1 ,fr5* l951 dimity1 na9sook1 & ,india silk are always da9ty & !y %\ld be made up v simply ) little trimm+1 b t ( ! f9e/4 ,hems & seams %\ld be small & neatly done )1 p]haps1 ! da9tie/ bead+ inset by h& & fea!r /it*$4 ,hem/it*+ is always beautiful1 b makes a weak spot :i* is apt to give out 9 ! con/ant laund]+ necess>y = *ildr5's clo!s4 ,! skirt & %irt made 9 "o piece1 ) sleeves to slip into ! little outside g>m5t1 bo? to op5 d[n ! back s t all may be slipp$ on at ! same "t )\t worry to ei!r nurse or baby1 w be f\nd a great conv5i5ce4 ,sid5ote3 ,/ock9et ,und]g>m5ts ,/ock9et or webb+1 all wool1 p>tly wool1 or all cotton1 is pref]r$ by _m to ! pla9 clo?4 ,! cotton is non-%r9kable1 easily made1 & f9i%$4 ,?is g>m5t fabric has rea*$ su* a high degree ( p]fection t = infants & *ildr5 ( l>g] gr[? no?+ bett] c be desir$ = %irts1 skirts1 draw]s1 & tights4 ,x may be _h 9 ei!r light or heavy weight1 is easily laund]$ & ela/ic1 hav+ all ! qualities desir$ 9 und]g>m5ts4 ,g>m5ts made ( ?is mat]ial 9 ! mann] describ$ give p]fect fre$om = all organs1 besides ev5ness ( cov]+ = ! body & lightness ( weight--all important consid]ations 9 infants' & *ildr5's clo?+4 ,!re %\ld be ! same simplicity 9 con/ruction & mat]ial 9 ! g>m5ts ( *ildr5 ( l>g] gr[?4 ,! design %\ld be small]1 m reali/ic & ! color bright] ?an = gr[n p4 ,sid5ote3 ,*ildr5's ,dresses ,= *ildr5's dresses1 ! pretty g+hams 9 small *ecks1 *ambray1 dimity1 s]ge1 flannels1 ca%m]e are appropriate & s]viceable4 ,9 mak+ up ^! simple mat]ials no?+ bett] c be sugge/$ ?an ! pla91 /raight wai/1 fitt+ easily1 to :i* a full skirt is fa/5$4 ,! sleeves may be ( any fa%ion to add v>iety4 ,su* a frock is simple & dignifi$ & has a c]ta9 ar*aic beauty & qua9tness t ! huge1 ugly coll>s & l ornam5t c nev] give4 ,) ! pla9 body ! grace ( ! *ildi% =m is n lo/4 ,! body may be %ort or long1 ) ! trimm+ at ! bottom or edge ( ! skirt4 ,! ga!rs fall 9 long l9es or folds1 no elem5t ( opposition de/roy+ ! rhy?m & grace ( ! figure cont\r1 :5 ! trimm+ is plac$ at ! bottom ( ! frock in/ead ( sev]al b&s divid+ ! skirt4 ,! wai/ %\ld always be wid] 9 front ?an 9 ! back4 ,! discom=t & injury caus$ by ill fitt+ g>m5ts1 grad$ accord+ to age in/ead ( accord+ to size1 ?us re/rict+ ! expansion ( ! *e/ & ! play ( ! lungs1 _c be e/imat$4 ,) ! prop] k9d ( frock a *ild c indulge 9 any game )\t becom+ 9 ! lea/ disord]$4 ,dresses = little girls may h draw]s made ( ! same mat]ial1 ?us p]mitt+ !m ! same fre$om z ! boys4 ,! life ( ! *ild is play4 ,un=tunate is ! *ild ^: clo?+ is too good to play 94 ,( c\rse !re %\ld be frocks = gala occasions4 ,*ildr5 are s5sitive to color & receive mu* innoc5t enjoym5t f be+ prettily dress$4 ,a *ild may be made unhappy & timid by ugly clo!s1 b pla9ness ne$ n mean ugl9ess4 ,!re are _m arti/ic & simple patt]ns n[ be+ put on ! m>ket & _m ( ! ready-made frocks f\nd 9 ! be/ %ops are satisfactory4 ,,c>e ,,( ,,clo?+ ,rusk9 says1 ,clo!s c>efully c>$ = & rightly worn1 %[ a balance ( m9d & self respect4 ,sid5ote3 ,little ,att5tions ,! fre%ness ( g[n or wrap may be pres]v$ by ! little att5tions be/[$ ^u x ea* "t x is worn1 :i* take b a few m9utes & mean s mu* 9 all dep>tm5ts ( dress4 ,by c>efully bru%+ & %ak+ into folds1 remov+ all spots1 hang+ "r side out1 pick+ & pull+ /raight fl[]s1 b[s1 & ribbons z soon z remov$1 add+ buttons & tak+ up dropp$ /it*es :5 ne$$1--all ^! little att5tions if giv5 promptly w keep a w>drobe fre% & 9 good ord]4 ,new braid on ! bottom ( skirts1 spong+ & press+1 little alt]ations & addition ( new trimm+ to coll> & cuffs1 w help to pres]ve ! orig9al fre%ness ( ! g[n & cause ! we>] to appe> well dress$4 ,wai/s %\ld be turn$ wrong side out :5 remov$ & all[$ to air ne> a w9d[4 ,%ields %\ld be cleans$ ) alcohol & wat]4 ,ribbons %\ld be roll$ up imm$iately :5 tak5 (f & if treat$ 9 ?is way w la/ mu* long] & look mu* da9ti]4 ,clo?+ if moi/ & du/y & toss$ into a d>k corn] ( a closet or trunk c nev] appe> fre% aga91 & w betray ! "* ( ! we>]4 ,x is n ! we>+ ( clo!s :i* tells s sadly ^u !m1 b ! mann] 9 :i* !y are c>$ =4 ,a few g>m5ts nicely made1 well fitt$ & prop]ly c>$ = are f> pref]able to twice ! numb] ( inf]ior quality & make4 ,sid5ote3 ,ruffl$ ,skirts ,skirts ( ?9 mat]ial hav+ ruffles ar\nd ! bottom %\ld be hung upside d[n by loops sew$ "u ! ruffles at ! seams4 ,by hang+ 9 ! opposite direction f :i* !y fall :5 worn1 ruffles rega9 _! fre%ness4 ,sid5ote3 ,pack+ ,away ,clo?+ ,all clo?+ = ! season %\ld be put away 9 p]fect ord] to be ready = any sudd5 em]g5cy :i* may arise4 ,no clo?+ ( any k9d %\ld be /or$ = ! season )\t ?or\gh clean+ & repair+ :]e necess>y4 ,g>m5ts t are outgr[n %\ld be dispos$ (1 in/ead ( pack+ !m away4 ,wool g>m5ts %\ld be c>efully bru%$ & hung 9 ! sun to remove & de/roy any eggs ( mo?s :i* may be pres5t4 ,!y may be hung 9 tight cotton bags or pack$ 9 tight boxes ) all op5+s po/$ ov] z a protection aga9/ mo?s4 ,tailors' boxes :i* come flat are n exp5sive & are useful = ?is4 ,!y %\ld be pla9ly label$ ) _! cont5ts4 ,sid5ote3 ,fold+ ,g>m5ts ,to fold1 lay all articles on ! b$ or table & fold on ! seams if possible4 ,p>ticul> att5tion %\ld be giv5 to sleeves & coll>s4 ,coat lapels %\ld be turn$ to lie flat1 coll>s turn$ up1 & ! coat fold$ directly ?r\gh ! c5t] seam4 ,skirts & coats ) bias seams are n improv$ by hang+ z ! bias p>ts are apt to /ret* out ( %ape4 ,sid5ote3 ,remove ,p9s ,no clo?+ %\ld be put away = ! night1 ev51 )\t fir/ remov+ all /eel p9s1 z ! lea/ dampness may cause ru/ spots4 ,sid5ote3 ,hang]s ,clo!s =ms & hang]s are s inexp5sive t e g[n & coat %\ld h its own4 ,skirts %\ld be hung exactly on ! =m & no "p ( ! b& %\ld be all[$ to sag4 ,if fancy wai/s are put 9 draw]s or boxes1 !y %\ld h ! sleeves fill$ ) tissue pap] & ! coll>s & b[s %\ld be pull$ /raight4 ,,clean+ ,l>ge g>m5ts require ! greate/ c>e 9 h&l+ & 9 ord] to be done successfully1 !y %\ld be s5t to ! pr(essional clean]4 ,sid5ote3 ,fruit & ,w9e ,/a9s ,all /a9s & spots %\ld be remov$ z soon z possible4 ,fruit & w9e /a9s may be remov$ by /ret*+ ! fabric ov] a vessel & p\r+ boil+ wat] ?r\gh ! clo? f a height ( a foot or two4 ,! wat] mu/ be boil+4 ,sid5ote3 ,ink ,/a9s ,ink /a9s c be tak5 out ( clo?+ by dipp+ ! clo? 9 milk1 squeez+ ! black5$ milk into "o di% & dipp+ imm$iately into cle> milk until ! /a9 has disappe>$4 ,!n f9i% by wa%+ ! clo? 9 w>m wat] & 9 soapy wat] to remove ! fat 9 ! milk4 ,sid5ote3 ,iron ,ru/ ,iron ru/ may be remov$ f l95 & cotton by us+ lemon juice & salt4 ,wet ! spot ) ! juice ( a lemon1 cov] ) salt & lay 9 ! sun1 repeat+ ! op]ation until ! /a9 is remov$1 !n r9se out ! lemon & salt ?or\ghly4 ,?is ( c\rse _c be us$ on color$ fabrics1 z x fades ! color4 ,sid5ote3 ,grease ,spots ,grease is "o ( ! wor/ foes to g>m5ts & ! greate/ c>e is ne$$ to remove su* spots f delicate fabrics4 ,if n done at once1 ! du/ & grease toge!r (t5 prove ru9\s4 ,:5 ! color & fabric w n be injur$ by x1 w>m wat] & soap is ! be/ ag5t1 o!rwise absorb5ts may be us$4 ,fr5* *alk or magnesia p[d]$1 plac$ ^u ! spot1 & all[$ to rema9 = a "t w (t5 absorb ! grease effectually4 ,if ! fir/ application is n effective1 bru% (f1 & apply aga9 until ! spot disappe>s4 ,:]e wat] c be us$ )\t injur+ ! clo?1 ! *alk or magnesia c be made into a pa/e & spread ov] ! spot4 ,:5 dry1 bru% (f ) a s(t bru%4 ,9 remov+ fre% grease spots1 blott+ pap] ) a w>m iron may (t5 be us$ effectively4 ,if ! heat *anges ! color ( ! clo?1 ! iron %\ld be held above ! goods4 ,sid5ote3 ,blood ,/a9s ,blood /a9s may be remov$ by mak+ a pa/e ( />* & apply+ x to ! spot4 ,sev]al applications may be necess>y4 ,sid5ote3 ,solv5ts ,sid5ote3 ,clean+ ,g>m5ts ,sid5ote3 ,soap & ,ammonia ) ,gasol9e ,only ! be/ & pure/ b5z9e1 naph?a1 gasol9e1 & turp5t9e %\ld be us$ = clean+ g>m5ts4 ,= remov+ pa9ts f co>se clo?1 pure turp5t9e is useful1 :ile = silks1 velvets & wool5s1 b5z9e1 naph?a & gasol9e are to be pref]r$4 ,! secret ( success 9 ! use ( any ( ^! cleans+ ag5ts lies 9 imm]s+ ! g>m5ts 9 l>ge quantities ( ! liquid4 ,n less ?an a gallon %\ld be us$ = a wai/ & two gallons w d ! "w f> m satisfactorily4 ,an ef=t %\ld be made to remove all ! wor/ spots be=e imm]s+ ! :ole g>m5t4 ,^? :i* h n disappe>$ %\ld !n be m>k$ ) :ite ?read1 color$ ?read may leave a m>k4 ,x is a good plan to enclose ! spot ) a l9e ( ba/+4 ,soak ! g>m5t = "s "t 9 ! liquid1 !n soap all spots ?or\ghly & rub g5tly betwe5 ! h&s until !y disappe>4 ,f9ally wa% & r9se ! g>m5t 9 cle> liquid & hang 9 ! op5 air until all odor has pass$ away4 ,soap may be us$ freely ) gasol9e ) good effect4 ,"s pr(essional clean]s use a little ( ! /ronge/ ammonia 9 _! gasol9e tanks4 ,! goods %\ld be %ak5 well & all folds pull$ out /raight ) ! ?reads ( ! goods4 ,velvete51 corduroy1 & l pil$ fabrics c be clean$ successfully if n too mu* worn1 b no am\nt ( clean+ w re/ore ! pile t is worn (f4 ,if all[$ to /& until ! impurities h settl$ & ! cle> liquid p\r$ into clean bottles1 x may be us$ = a numb] ( times4 ,?is %\ld always be done 9 ! op5 air4 ,*lor(orm may be us$ = clean+ ! mo/ delicate silks1 ?\gh ?is is r exp5sive4 ,sid5ote3 ,absorb+ ,pad ,:5ev] any ( ^! liquids are us$ to remove spots alone1 ! spots %\ld be plac$ ^u a s(t pad ( sev]al ?icknesses ( old clo? or blott+ pap] to absorb ! surplus liquid & ! spot %\ld be rubb$ f ! outside t[>ds ! c5t]4 ,a hole may be cut 9 v s(t clo? or blott+ pap] & plac$ ar\nd ! spot to absorb ! solv5t ar\nd ! /a9 & prev5t ! d>k r+ be+ =m$4 ,! clo? %\ld be rubb$ lightly & briskly until x is dry4 ,if ! fabric is light color$1 a sponge or a s(t piece ( light clo? %\ld be us$1 :ile = d>k fabrics1 ! clo? us$ = rubb+ ! spot %\ld also be d>k & free f l9t4 ,! rubb+ %\ld be done lightly s z n to we> or injure ! texture ( ! fabric4 ,! blott+ pap] or clo? und]nea? %\ld be *ang$ frequ5tly until ! spot has entirely disappe>$4 ,sid5ote3 ,clean+ ,velvet ,velvet hats & bonnets1 aft] all trimm+ is remov$1 may be clean$ by repeat$ dipp+s 9 b5z9e or gasol9e4 ,! vessel us$ %\ld be l>ge en\gh to hold a suffici5t quantity ( ! liquid to completely cov] ! hat4 ,( c\rse all du/ %\ld be c>efully bru%$ (f & all folds ripp$ & loos5$ be=e putt+ ! hat into ! liquid4 ,! secret ( success lies 9 hav+ ! article entirely free f du/ & us+ a l>ge quantity ( ! b5z9e or gasol9e4 ,sid5ote3 ,be=e ,s5d+ to ,clean]s ,be=e s5d+ out g>m5ts to be dy$ or clean$1 be sure t !y are 9 good condition4 ,all worn places %\ld be m5d$ c>efully & all buttons %\ld be remov$4 ,g>m5ts t are ripp$ %\ld h all cut ?reads pull$ out & be free f du/4 ,du/ silk fabrics ) a piece ( clean flannel & wool5 mat]ial ) a bru% or broom4 ,,repair+ ,sid5ote3 ,economical ,m5d+ ,fabrics are s mu* *eap] & s mu* easi] to obta9 t pat*+ has almo/ become "o ( ! lo/ arts4 ,! tw5tie? c5tury woman feels t h] "t is too valuable to be sp5t 9 m5d+ ! old clo!s & t %e c bett] af=d to buy new4 ,h[ev] t may be1 no "o disputes ! utility ( m5d+4 ,l s _m o!r duties1 m5d+ is half done :5 well begun4 ,a well made g>m5t ( good mat]ial %\ld n be disc>d$ :5 slightly worn1 = a pat* well put 9 or a neat piece ( d>n+ detracts 9 no way f ! value ( a g>m5t & may ev5 be a "w ( art4 ,! *ildr5's clo!s p>ticul>ly %\ld be kept 9 good ord]1 = !y are made uncom=table by we>+ g>m5ts t are out ( repair1 to say no?+ ( ! demoraliz+ effect ^u _! *>act]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,laund]+ & ,repairs ,laund]+ is ! great ally to te>s & n only d\bles ! size ( ! hole1 b pulls ! ?reads ap>t s t x is impossible to make ! m5d$ place neat & smoo?1 !re=e all clo?+ %\ld be m5d$ be=e wa%+4 ,/ock+s & wov5 und]we> are mu* worn by ! rubb+ on ! wa%bo>d & ?9 places go+ into ! wa%+ frequ5tly come out z holes1 s t x is true economy ( ef=t & "t to run or d>n ! ?9 places be=e !y are worn ?r\gh4 ,x requires mu* less "t & ! g>m5ts la/ long]4 ,x is a good plan1 especially 9 knees ( /ock+s & knitt$ und]we>1 to ba/e a piece ( f9e net ov] a worn or brok5 place & d>n ov] x4 7,see ,d>n+47 ,?read us$ = d>n+ %\ld be z ne> z possible ! size ( ! ?reads 9 ! g>m5t4 ,d>n+ cotton1 l951 wool1 & silk ( all %ades c be b\ght1 s t ! problem ( mat*+ is no long] a difficult "o4 ,sid5ote3 ,boys' ,tr[s]s ,9 m5d+ ! knees ( boys' tr\s]s a r\nd pat* %\ld nev] be us$4 ,! seams %\ld be ripp$ & ! piece set 9 !n1 if ! seams are press$ well1 ! pat* w sc>cely be noticeable4 ,sid5ote3 ,sleeves ,:5 bodices are worn "u ! arm1 rip ! seams & set 9 a new "u arm piece4 ,a good plan = "o ^: dresses are apt to we> ?r\gh quickly is to h ! "u arm pieces & ! adjac5t p>ts ( ! front made ( two ?icknesses ( ! goods2 !n1 z ! outside we>s ?r\gh1 ! edges c be hemm$ d[n or tak5 into ! seam4 ,sid5ote3 ,table ,clo?s ,:5 table clo?s beg9 to we> 9 ! middle fold or along ! edge ( ! table1 a few in*es cut (f "o end & "o side ( ! clo? w *ange ! fold & ! place :]e x falls ov] ! table & give x a new lease ( life4 ,if ! hem is turn$ d[n once & cat /it*$1 x w resemble ! selvage m ?an a twice turn$ hem4 ,sid5ote3 ,l5g!n+ ,g>m5ts ,9 repair+ or l5g!n+ g>m5ts t h become too %ort1 mu* c be done by add+ to ! bottom ( ! skirt & sleeves mat]ial ( diff]5t texture4 ,a clo? or s]ge skirt may be l5g!n$ by fac+ ) velvet ( ! same %ade1 cov]+ ! l9e ( sew+ ) cord1 braid1 or passem5t]ie ( ! same %ade or black4 ,!re %\ld be an und]fac+ ( light-weight cr9ol9e to make ! bottom ( ! skirt firm & to give /r5g?4 ,! same fac+ & passem5t]ie may be us$ at neck & sleeves4 ,sid5ote3 ,ext5sion ,hem & ,tucks ,?9 g[ns ( lawn1 dimity1 etc41 c be l5g!n$ ) a fac$ or ext5sion hem1 ! l9e ( sew+ to be cov]$ ) fea!r /it* or any ( ! fancy /it*es ( :ite or color$ ?read4 ,if ! lawn or dimity has a color$ figure1 ! embroid]y silk or cotton may mat* ?is4 ,"u skirts & draw]s may be l5g!n$ 9 ! same way or r[s ( tucks may be add$4 ,sid5ote3 ,wai/ ,repair+ ,9 wai/ repair+1 ! sew+ silk %\ld mat* ! mat]ial4 ,set ! pat* into ! seams :5 possible & tru/ to c>eful press+4 ,if ! mat]ial beg9s to we> ne> ! end ( ! bones1 cut (f ! bones an in* & take 9 ! d>t or seam4 ,if ! silk we>s (f ar\nd ! hooks & eyes1 move !m along ev] s little4 ,make a virtue ( worn out seams by tak+ !m 9 & cov]+ !m ) fancy /it*+4 ,if ! g>m5t is l9$1 ! outside %\ld be c>efully ba/$ to ! l9+ be=e /it*+ to take 9 ! seam4 ,x has be5 said t silk wai/s are s]viceable z long z ! upp] p>ts ( ! sleeves rema9 good4 ,if g>m5ts h n be5 well c>$ = f ! fir/ & beyond a c]ta9 po9t1 mak+ ov] is poor economy4 ,nev] attempt clean+ & mak+ ov] old clo!s unless ! mat]ial is good en\gh to make x wor? :ile to d ! "w well4 ,sid5ote3 ,m5d+ ,baskets ,! m5d+ basket is an important adjunct ( m5d+ & %\ld be well suppli$ ) d>n+ cotton ( all colors & sizes1 good ,engli% tape1 black & :ite1 ( diff]5t wid?s1 l95 tape1 bias tape1 diff]5t k9ds & sizes ( ne$les1--sew+1 d>n+1 %oe1 c>pet1 & tape ne$les4 ,sid5ote3 ,use ( ,tape ,= repair+ b&s & fac+s1 :]e buttons h be5 torn (f by wr+] or iron1 & = /r5g!n+ weak places1 tape is invaluable4 ,x saves ! "t requir$ to turn 9 ! edges ( ! clo? & is less clumsy & bungl+4 ,sid5ote3 ,use ( ,judgm5t 9 ,m5d+ ,! m5d] %\ld use good judgm5t z to ! am\nt ( "w to be appli$ to ea* g>m5t4 ,%e %\ld sub/itute ! ma*9e ne$le :5ev] possible & n put t9y /it*es by h& into half worn g>m5ts or 9 unse5 places4 ,ripp$ tucks & b&s c be sew$ 9 a few m9utes on ! ma*9e4 ,s]viceable d>n+ c be done on ! ma*9e4 ,be=e putt+ away fre%ly laund]$ clo!s x is a good plan to take out ! clo!s already 9 ! draw]s & lay ! ones wa%$ la/ on ! bottom1 ?us all g>m5ts w we> alike1 ea* article 9 its regul> turn4 ,,bibliography ,home & ,s*ool ,sew+1 ,frances ,patton1 74#fj1 po/age #f;c74 ,s*ool ,ne$lework1 ,olive ,c4 ,hapgood1 74#ge1 po/age #f;c74 ,sew+ ,c\rse = ,s*ools1 ,m>y ,s*5ck ,woolman1 7#c4ej1 po/age #bj;c74 ,progressive ,lessons 9 ,ne$lework1 ,ca!r9e ,f4 ,johnson1 74#ij1 po/age #h;c74 ,sew+ & ,g>m5t ,draft+1 ,m>g>et ,l4 ,blair1 7#a4be1 po/age #aj;c74 ,manual ( ,ex]cises 9 ,h& ,sew+1 ,m>g>et ,l4 ,blair1 7#a4be1 po/age #aj;c74 ,dressmak+ ,up to ,date1 ,butt]ick ,pub4 ,co41 74#be1 po/age #h;c74 ,note3 ,! above books may be borr[$1 "o at a "t1 by memb]s ( ! ,s*ool4 ,s5d ! po/age giv5 ) reque/4 ,!y may be pur*as$ if desir$4 ,,te/ ,,que/ions ,! foll[+ que/ions con/itute ! writt5 recitation :i* ! regul> memb]s ( ! ,a4 ,s4 ,h4 ,e4 answ] 9 writ+ & s5d 9 = ! correction & comm5t ( ! in/ructor4 ,!y are int5d$ to emphasize & fix 9 ! memory ! mo/ important po9ts 9 ! lesson4 ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,"p ,,iii ,,read ,,c>efully4 ,to make ?is te/ ( greate/ value to y1 write fully f y\r p]sonal /&po9t & exp]i5ce4 ,try z _m me?ods giv5 9 ! text z y\r "t w all[ s t y may ask = explanation if ! descriptions are n cle> to y4 ,me?ods are _m2 if y d n agree ) ^! giv51 sugge/ bett] ones4 #a4 7a7 ,:at are ! requisites = good dressmak+8 7b7 ,h[ does dressmak+ diff] f :ite sew+ 9 make1 f9i%1 & ornam5tation8 #b4 ,f y\r po9t ( view :at d y consid] a successful g>m5t8 #c4 ,give me?ods ( alt]+ patt]ns4 #d4 ,give briefly ! cutt+ & mak+ ( a wool g>m5t f patt]ns3 7a7 wai/1 7b7 sleeve1 7c7 skirt1 7d7 coll>1 includ+ me?ods ( /it*+1 press+ & f9i%1 /at+ h[ patt]ns %\ld be plac$ on l9+ & outside mat]ials4 #e4 ,h[ may press+ be done to give ! be/ results8 ,:at g>m5ts require little or no press+1 & :y8 #f4 7a7 ,/ate "s ( ! pr9ciples & purposes ( ornam5t4 7b7 ,:at is y\r idea ( ornam5t appli$ to g>m5ts8 7c7 ,give "s errors 9 ornam5tation n nam$ 9 text4 #g4 ,cut f magaz9es illu/rations %[+ y\r idea ( good & faulty ornam5tation 9 dress4 ,give reason = y\r op9ion4 #h4 ,illu/rate 9 "s way1 ei!r by picture1 draw+1 embroid]y1 braid1 or /it*+1 "s design appropriate = ornam5t "w on neck or sleeve4 #i4 ,:]e %\ld ornam5t be plac$1 & :y8 #aj4 7a7 ,give y\r idea ( appropriate design on textiles4 7b7 ,! advantage & disadvantage ( pla9 mat]ials4 #aa4 ,make a color c>d ( silk1 wool1 pap] or raffia %[+ colors t contra/4 7b7 ,colors t h>monize4 #ab4 ,:at colors d y f9d satisfactory = y\r own we>1 & :y8 #ac4 ,:at mat]ials are be/ suit$ = infants' g>m5ts8 7b7 ,:at c y say 9 reg>d to *ildr5's clo?+8 #ad4 ,:at is y\r op9ion ( ! c>e ( clo?+8 7b7 ,:at exp]i5ce h y _h 9 clean+ 7a7 cotton1 7b7 wool1 7c7 l951 7d7 silk1 7e7 velvet8 #ae4 ,d y consid] x economy to repair g>m5ts8 ,c y sugge/ bett] me?ods ?an ^? giv5 9 ! text8 #af4 ,if possible make "s g>m5t1 %irt wai/1 skirt1 or simple dress :ile /udy+ ?is lesson & describe 9 detail h[ y w5t ab\t x1 ! result1 "t tak51 total co/4 ,tell :y y select$ ! design1 ! color1 ! mat]ial4 #ag4 ,h y f\nd ! ready made g>m5ts satisfactory 9 und]we> & dresses8 #ah4 ,tell ( "s ( y\r failures 9 dressmak+ & give ! reasons = y\r lack ( success4 #ai4 ,:at me?ods1 new to y1 h y tri$ 9 connection ) ?is lesson8 ,:at que/ions h y to ask8 #bj4 ,c y add any sugge/ions t w\ld be helpful to o!rs 9 ?is "w8 #ba4 ,:]e9 h ! lessons be5 ( practical value to y8 #bb4 ,= ,tea*]s4 ,draw up an outl9e = a c\rse 9 sew+ to comb9e two consid]ations3 7a7 adaptability to ! *ild's int]e/s & capacities1 7b7 ord]ly sequ5ce 9 ! te*nical "p4 ,note3 ,aft] complet+ ! answ]s1 sign y\r full "n4 ,,ref]5ces3 ,,ornam5t ,,& ,,design ,ba*eld]--,pr9ciples ( ,design 9 ,am]ica4 7#c4jj47 ,br[n--,hi/ory ( ,decorative ,art4 7#a4be47 ,c>t]1 ,mrs4 ,h4 ,j4--,hi/oric ,ornam5t 9 ,color4 7#ae;c4 a %eet74 ,prang4 ,clif=d--,p]iod ,decoration4 7#c4jj47 ,crane--,claims ( ,decorative ,art4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,crane--,l9e & ,=m4 7#b4be47 ,daniels--,tea*+ ( ,ornam5t4 7#a4ej47 ,day--,application ( ,ornam5t4 7#a4be47 ,day--,nature 9 ,ornam5t4 7#d4jj47 ,day--,ornam5tal ,design4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,day--,plann+ ( ,ornam5t4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,day--,decorative ,design ( all ,ages4 7#j4dj47 ,day--,ornam5t & ,its ,application4 7#c4be47 ,day--,ornam5tal ,design1 ,anatomy ( ,patt]n1 ,plann+ ( ,ornam5t4 7#c4jj47 ,day--,"s ,pr9ciples ( ,ev]yday ,art4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,glazi]--,manual ( ,hi/oric ,ornam5t4 7,new edition 9 press47 ,hulme--,bir? & ,developm5t ( ,ornam5t4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,jones--,gramm> ( ,ornam5t4 7#ah4jj47 ,prang--,art & ,ornam5t 9 ,egypt4 7#a4ej47 ,note--,! books out ( pr9t may be f\nd 9 "s public libr>ies4 ,,ref]5ces3 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,co/ume ,e>le--,co/ume ( ,colonial ,times4 7#a4be47 ,e>le--,two ,c5turies ( ,co/ume 9 ,am]ica1 #b vols4 7#b4ej ea*47 ,evans--,*apt]s on ,greek ,dress4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,fairholt--,co/ume ( ,engl&1 #b vols4 7#a4ej ea*47 ,hill--,hi/ory ( ,engli% ,dress4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,mc,clellan--,hi/oric ,dress 9 ,am]ica4 7#aj4jj47 ,plan*et--,hi/ory 9 ,briti% ,co/ume4 7#a4ej47 ,quegly--,:at ,dress ,makes ( ,u4 7#a4be47 ,rac9et--,co/ume4 7#b4jj47 ,rhead--,*ats on ,co/ume4 7#a4ej47 ,s*ild--,old ,engli% ,peasant ,co/ume f ,boadicea to ,que5 ,victoria4 7,out ( pr9t47 ,,supplem5t>y ,,program ,,arrang$ ,,= ,,class ,,/udy ,,on ,,textiles ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,meet+ ,i 7,/udy pages #a-ei7 ,,primitive ,,me?ods ,endeavor to obta9 a ,colonial sp9n+-:eel 9 work+ ord]1 & get "s "o to op]ate x4 ,if possible1 obta9 samples ( weav+ done on a h& loom4 ,exam9e a h&-loom if possible4 ,!y may be se5 at ! manufactur]s ( rag & remade c>pets4 ,ref]5ces3 ,woman's ,%>e 9 ,primitive ,culture1 ,mason1 ,*apt] ,,iii1 ,! ,weav]4 7#a4ge1 po/age #af;c47 ,colonial ,days 9 ,old ,new ,engl&1 by ,e>le4 7#a4be1 po/age #ab;c47 ,,textile ,,fibres ,collect an exhibit ( raw fibres & fibres 9 process ( manufacture4 ,s5d to ! ,u4 ,s4 ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 ,dep>tm5t ( ,botany1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c41 = small samples2 to manufactur]s ( ?read2 to fri5ds 9 manufactur+ t[ns4 ,te/ ! v>i\s fibres by burn+4 ,exam9e "u a microscope ) a small h&-glass1 if great] p[] _c be obta9$4 ,try w>m acid--sulphuric1 hydro*loric1 or oxalic--on ! fibres2 let ! fibres dry4 ,also try a solution ( cau/ic soda on ! fibres4 ,ref]5ces3 ,! ,textile ,fibres1 by ,mat!ws4 7#c4ej1 po/age #af;c47 ,textile ,fibres & ,cotton ,fibre1 pamphlets ( ! ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,correspond5ce4 7#ej;c4 ea*1 po/age #d;c4 ea*47 ,s5d = all ! ,gov]nm5t ,bullet9s m5tion$ 9 ! ,bibliography1 page #ajd4 ,note t ! free bullet9s are obta9$ simply by address+ ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c41 b ! sale bullet9s only by s5d+ co9 or money ord] to ! ,sup]9t5d5t ( ,docum5ts1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c4 ,,meet+ ,,ii 7,/udy pages #ei-ajb7 ,,mod]n ,,me?ods ,visit a textile mill if possible1 aft] /udy+ ! text4 ,practice home dye+4 ,read c>efully ! directions giv5 by ! manufactur]s ( ! dyes4 ,see ! booklet ,diamond ,dyes1 to be obta9$ at _m drug /ores1 or s5d = x to ,wells ,ri*>dson1 ,burl+ton1 ,v]mont4 ,ref]5ces3 ,text-books ( ! ,am]ican ,s*ool ( ,correspond5ce--especially ,textile ,*emi/ry & ,dye+4 7,p>ts ,i1 ,,ii1 ,,iii1 & ,,iv1 po/age #d;c4 ea*47 ,! ,dye+ ( ,textile ,fabrics1 by ,hummell4 7#a4ge1 po/age #ab;c47 ,blea*+ & ,calico ,pr9t+ 7conta9+ samples71 by ,du]r4 7#d4jj1 po/age #ad;c47 ,,weaves ,,& ,,fabrics ,%[ z _m diff]5t k9ds ( weaves z possible4 ,sep>ate ! ?reads & exam9e "u a h& microscope4 ,get ! local dry-goods or dep>tm5t /ore to co-op]ate ) y 9 gett+ up an exhibit ( samples ( /&>d goods--cotton1 wool51 wor/$1 l951 & silk4 ,label ea* sample ) ! wid? & price4 ,te/ "s ( ! samples ( wa% goods = fa/ness to wa%+ & light1 by wa%+ 9 w>m wat] & soap 7or boil+ 9 ! soap & wat]7 & expose to sunlight all day = ?ree or f\r days4 ,keep a "p ( ea* sample = comp>ison4 7,select a composite set ( answ]s to ! ,te/ ,que/ions on ,"p ,i & s5d to ! ,s*ool1 ) report on ! supplem5tal "w done & ,meet+s ,i & ,,ii47 ,,meet+ ,,iii 7,/udy pages #ajg-abc7 ,,sew+3 ,,pla9 ,,/it*es ,s5d to manufactur]s = samples %[+ ! process ( manufacture ( p9s1 ne$les1 etc4 ,demon/rate diff]5t ways ( mak+ ! same /it*es2 discuss be/ me?ods4 ,,embroid]y ,%[ h[ all ! embroid]y /it*es are made4 ,get up an exhibit ( all k9ds ( embroid]y1 includ+ ,ori5tal1 ,japanese1 old sampl]s1 etc4 ,h memb]s make ,model ,i1 ,fir/ ,s]ies4 ,ref]5ces3 ,home & ,s*ool ,sew+1 by ,patton4 7#j4fj1 po/age #f;c47 ,s*ool ,ne$lework1 by ,hapgood4 7#j4ge1 po/age #f;c47 ,manual ( ,ex]cise 9 ,h& ,sew+1 by ,blair4 7#a4be1 po/age #aj;c47 ,topic3 ,educational ,value ( ,sew+ 9 ! ,public ,s*ools4 ,me?ods4 ,see ,a ,sew+ ,c\rse1 by ,m>y ,s4 ,woolman1 ,introduction 7#c4ej1 po/age #bj;c471 & ,! ,tea*+ ( ,dome/ic ,sci5ce 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,am]ica1 by ,alice ,rav5hill1 pages #i-aj1 #dc-df4 7#j4ge1 po/age #ab;c47 ,,meet+ ,,iv 7,/udy pages #abc-afe7 ,,hems1 ,,seams1 ,,fa/5+s1 ,,d>n+1 ,,pat*+ ,h all memb]s make models ,,ii1 ,,iii1 ,,iv1 & ,v4 ,previ\sly assign memb]s to furni% models or examples ( all o!r hems1 seams1 fa/5+s1 pat*es1 d>ns1 etc41 illu/rat$ or describ$ 9 ! text1 & z _m m z possible4 ,,ma*9e ,,sew+ ,get ! local sew+ ma*9e ag5t to give a demon/ration ( ! work+s ( ! atta*m5ts ( ! ma*9e4 7,select models & answ]s to ,te/ ,que/ions on ,"p ,,ii & s5d !m to ! ,s*ool1 ) a report ( ,meet+s ,,iii & ,,iv47 ,,meet+ ,v 7,/udy pages #afg-bjj7 ,,dressmak+ ,get ! local dry-goods or dep>tm5t /ore to l5d diff]5t k9ds ( dress =ms4 ,%[ h[ patt]ns are alt]$ to suit ! figure4 7,see text & ,dressmak+ ,up to ,date47 ,z _m z possible cut out & beg9 mak+ a simple %irt-wai/ or skirt4 ,%[ f9i%$ g>m5t at next meet+1 giv+ accurate acc\nt ( co/ & "t sp5t4 ,ref]5ces3 ,dressmak+ ,up to ,date1 ,! ,butt]ick ,co4 7#j4be1 po/age #h;c47 ,sew+ & ,g>m5t ,draft+1 by ,m>g>et ,l4 ,blair4 7#a4be1 po/age #ab;c47 ,,meet+ ,,vi 7,/udy pages #bje-bbh7 ,,con/ruction ,,& ,,ornam5t ,,9 ,,dress2 ,,color ,collect illu/rations %[+ good & faulty ornam5tation4 ,procure samples ( fabrics %[+ good & faulty ornam5tation4 ,make a color c>d %[+ contra/ & h>mony ( color4 7,see ,"q #aa47 ,ref]5ces3 ,see li/ on pages #bcd & #bce4 ,,*ildr5',s ,,clo?+ ,get up an exhibit ( simple & satisfactory clo?+ = *ildr51 includ+ color1 mat]ial1 /yle & make4 ,discuss *ildr5's clo!s 9 ref]5ce to laund]+4 ,,c>e ,,& ,,repair ,,( ,,clo!s ,%[ examples ( successful repair+4 ,try "s ( ! me?ods ( clean+4 7,see1 also ,*emi/ry ( ! ,h\sehold pages #gc-hd47 7,select answ]s to ,te/ ,que/ions on ,"p ,,iii & s5d !m to ! ,s*ool1 ) report on ,meet+s ,v & ,,vi47 ,,index ,adult]ation ( l951 #hg ,alpaca1 #ij ,alt]+ sleeve patt]ns1 #aid ,angora wool1 #ci ,anil9e dyes1 #gi ,arr[ heads1 #abc ,back /it*1 #aab ,ba/+1 #ajh ,bibliography1 #ajc1 #bbi ,blea*+1 #gh ,bobb91 #ai ,bon+ wai/1 #aib ,b[1 !1 #bjh ,burl+1 #hc ,bu/ =m1 #afh ,button holes1 #ada l>ge1 #ade mak+1 #add ,buttons1 sew+ on1 #ade ,c>d+1 #ei ,c>e ( clo?+1 #bai ,cassim]e twills1 #gc1 #ge ,cat /it*1 #aaf ,cat* /it*1 #aaf ,*a9 /it*1 #aaf ,*ecks1 #bac ,*ildr5's clo!s1 #baf1 #bag ,clean+1 #ei1 #bba ,coll>s1 #aih putt+ on1 #aii ,color 9 dress1 #bad ,colors1 mordant1 #gi ,comb+1 #fj ,conv5tional designs1 #bac ,co/umes1 ref]5ces1 #bcd ,cotton1 #bi boles1 #cb fib]s1 #cd ,cotton goods1 #he home (1 #cj ,nank91 #cd sea isl&1 #cj upl&1 #cj ,cross /it*1 #abj ,cuffs1 #aif ,cutt+ table1 #afh ,d>n+1 #aee on ma*9e1 #aeh ov] net1 #aeg ,decorations1 plac+1 #bjh ,di/aff1 #ab ,d\ble clo?1 #gg ,drap$ wai/1 #aib ,draw+ tapes1 #adj ,dressmak+1 #afg ,dye+1 #gh home1 #hj ,dyes1 anil9e1 #gi ,dye/uffs1 natural1 #hj ,embroid]y1 #bjd z ornam5t1 #bjd eyelet1 #abb %ad[1 #abc /it*es1 #aad ,ext5sion hem1 #bbg ,eyelet embroid]y1 #abb ,eyelets1 #adi ,fabrics1 #he li/ (1 #if-ajb names (1 #id primitive1 #bg wid? (1 #ic ,fac+1 bias1 #ada skirt1 #agi ,fa/5+ ! ?read1 #aji ,fa/5+s1 #ada ,fea!r /it*1 #aah ,fib]s1 #bi cotton1 #bi flax1 #dc silk1 #ec wool1 #cg ,f9i%es1 #aci ,f9i%+ skirt1 #agi seams1 #aif wai/1 #aib ,f9i%+1 wool5s1 #hc ,fitt+1 #agc1 #aic sleeves1 #aij wai/s1 #aij ,flax1 #dc fib]s1 #dg hackl+1 #dd1 #dg ,flocks1 #hc ,fold+ g>m5ts1 #bbj ,fr5* hem1 #abg knots1 #aai seam1 #aca ,full+1 #hc ,fur1 #dj ,ga!r+1 #aaa1 #ach ,ga!rs1 :ipp$1 #abg ,gaug+1 #aab ,gigg+1 #hc ,g+ham1 #hf ,grease spots1 #abb ,h& sew+1 #ajg ,h>mony 9 dress1 #bae ,h>ness1 !1 #gj ,h$dle1 #ag ,hemp1 #ej ,hem /it*1 #aah ,hems1 #abc bias1 #abd fac$1 #abd flannel1 #abg ,fr5*1 #abg fold+1 #abc ,hems1 roll$1 #abf ,h]r+bone /it*1 #aaf ,home dye+1 #hj ,hook & eyes1 #adg ,hydroscopic moi/ure1 #db ,jacqu>d loom1 #gj ,jo9+ lace1 #afj ,jute1 #ej ,knit goods1 #gb ,lace1 design (1 #bjh ,laces1 use (1 #bjg ,laund]+1 #bbe ,l5g!n+ g>m5ts1 #bbf ,l951 #hf adult]ation (1 #hg *>act]i/ics (1 #dg ,l9+1 cutt+1 #ahh ,load+ silk1 #ef ,looms1 #ag ,colonial1 #ai1 #ba1 #bb developm5t (1 #ai diagram (1 #bc fly %uttle1 #bf f\r h>ness1 h&1 #ba ,jacqu>d1 #gj ,japanese1 #bj mod]n1 #be1 #fi ,navajo1 #ah ,sw$i% h&1 #bd ,loop /it*1 #aaf ,madd] blea*1 #gh ,ma*9e d>n+1 #aeh sew+1 #afb ,m5d+1 #hc1 #bbe ,mit]+ embroid]y1 #aeh ,mod]n me?ods1 #ei ,mohair1 #ij ,mordant colors1 #gi ,musl91 #he ,nank9 cotton1 #cd ,natural dye/uffs1 #hj ,olona1 #ec ,ornam5t1 #bjc embroid]y z1 #bjd fitness (1 #bji fl[]s z1 #bje ( textiles1 #bab ,ornam5tal /it*es1 #ajh1 #aad ,ornam5tation1 errors 91 #bjd ,outl9e /it*1 #aad ,ov]ca/+1 #aad1 #adb ,ov]sew+1 #aac ,pack+ clo?+1 #bbj ,passem5t]ie1 #bjf ,pat*+1 #adi ,patt]ns1 #aga alt]+1 #agc clo?1 #agd l5g!n+1 #agc p9n+1 #agf plac+1 #agf selection (1 #aga te/+1 #agd use (1 #agb ,pick+1 #ei ,pil$ fabrics1 #ia ,plackets1 #ace fac$1 #acg ,plaids1 #bac ,pla9 mat]ial1 #bab ,plu%1 #gg ,press+1 #bja bo>d1 #afh1 #bja wet1 #bjb ,primitive me?ods1 #c ,pr9t+1 #ha block1 #ha ma*9e1 #ha w>ps1 #hb ,ramie1 #ej ,raw silk1 #ef ,re$1 #ai ,reel+ silk1 #ed ,repair+1 #bbe ,rett+ flax1 #de ,rov+1 #fa ,runn+ /it*1 #aaj ,sate5 weave1 #gi ,sat91 #ia /it*1 #aba ,sc\r+ ag5ts1 #da ,sea isl& cotton1 #cj ,seams1 #abh bead$1 #aca fell$1 #abh flannel1 #ace ,fr5*1 #aca lapp$1 #acc slot1 #aca ,s]ges1 #hh ,sev5-gor$ skirt1 #agb ,sew+1 h&1 #ajg ma*9e1 #afb ,sew+ ma*9es1 #afb c>e (1 #afb types (1 #afb use (1 #afd ,%ad[ embroid]y1 #abc ,%eep1 #ci ,%irt wai/s1 cutt+1 #ahb plan = mak+1 #ahc ,%uttle1 #ai ,silk1 #ec artificial1 #eh boil+ (f1 #ef fib]1 #ec load+1 #ef1 #ij production1 #ec raw1 #ef twill$1 #ia ,silk1 wa%1 #ia ,silk worm1 #ed ,silks1 #ij ,s+e+1 #gh ,skirt1 #agb b&1 #agi ,skirt b9d+1 #ahj braid1 #ahj mak+1 #agg placket1 #agh plan ( mak+1 #agc /iff5+1 #agh ,sleeve mak+1 #ahc patt]ns1 #aid ,sleeves1 cutt+1 #aid1 #aie f9i% (1 #aig press+1 #aih putt+ 91 #aig ,slip-/it*+1 #abe ,slot seams1 #aca ,speck dye1 #hc ,sp9dle1 #f :orl1 #f ,sp9n+1 #c1 #ei primitive1 #c :eel1 #ab ) sp9dle1 #f ,/a9s1 #bba ,/it*es1 #ajg ornam5tal1 #ajh1 #aad pla91 #ajg ,/ock9et und]g>m5ts1 #baf ,/ripes1 #bac ,/rok+ ga!rs1 #aaa ,table l951 #hg ,teazels1 #hc ,textile arts1 orig9 (1 #c ,textiles1 #he1 #bab design (1 #bab li/ (1 #if1 #ajb ornam5t (1 #bab weaves1 #gb ,texture1 #bad ,trimm+1 #baj ,twe$s1 #hh ,h>ris1 #hi ,twills1 #gd ,cassim]e1 #gc1 #ge unev51 #ge ,tuck$ wai/1 #ahe ,tuck+1 #ajh ,tucks1 #abh ,unity 9 dress1 #baa ,upl& cotton1 #cj ,velvet1 #ib weave (1 #gg ,velvete51 #ib ,wai/s1 #ahe l9$1 #ahf plan = mak+1 #ahg repair+1 #bbg tuck$1 #ahe ,wa% silk1 #ia ,w>p+1 #fi ,weave1 #gb diagrams1 #gc pla91 #gc basket1 #gf d\ble clo?1 #gg rib1 #gf sate51 #gf twill1 #gd velvet1 #gg ,weav+1 #ad1 #fi ,wet ,press+1 #bjb ,:eel sp9n+1 #ab ,:ipp+ /it*1 #aac ,:orl1 sp9dle1 #f ,wid?s ( fabrics1 #ic ,wool1 #cg *>act]i/ics (1 #cg fib]1 #cf quality (1 #ch sc\r+1 #dj sort+1 #dj value = clo?+1 #cg ,wool5s1 #hh ,wor/$s1 #hh ,yokes1 #bj