,transcriber's ,notes3 ,the ,table of ,contents has been changed to match the actual chapter headings4 ,a few hyphenations have been changed to make them consistent4 ,minor typographic errors have been corrected4 ,,woodwork ,,joints 7,,the ,,woodworker ,,series7 ,,revised ,,edition ,,woodwork ,,joints ,,how ,,they ,,are ,,set ,,out1 ,,how ,,made ,,and ,,where ,,used2 ,,with ,,four ,,hundred ,,illustrations ,,and ,,index ,,revised ,,edition ,,london ,,evans ,,brothers1 ,,limited ,,montague ,,house1 ,,russell ,,square1 ,w4,c4#a ,,the ,,woodworker ,,series ,,woodwork ,,joints4 ,,cabinet ,,construction4 ,,staining ,,and ,,polishing4 ,,woodwork ,,tools4 ,,practical ,,upholstery4 ,,wood ,,turning4 ,,woodcarving4 ,,timbers ,,for ,,woodwork4 ,,furniture ,,repairing ,,and ,,re-,,upholstery4 ,,household ,,repairs ,,and ,,renovations4 ,,carpentry ,,for ,,beginners4 ,,kitchen ,,furniture ,,designs4 ,,bureau ,,and ,,bookcase ,,designs4 ,,light ,,carpentry ,,designs4 ,,doormaking4 ,,evans ,,brothers1 ,,limited1 ,,montague ,,house1 ,,russell ,,square1 ,,london1 ,w4,c4#a4 ,,editorial ,,foreword ,to be successful in woodwork construction the possession of two secrets is essential--to know the right joint to use1 and to know how to make that joint in the right way4 ,the woodwork structure or the piece of cabinet-work that endures is the one on which skilful hands have combined to carry out what the constructive mind planned4 ,and it is just here that the present ,volume will help1 not alone the beginner who wishes preliminary instruction1 but also the expert who desires guidance over ground hitherto unexplored by him4 ,in the preparation of this new edition the ,publishers have secured the services of ,mr4 ,william ,fairham1 by whom the chapters have been carefully revised and re-illustrated4 ,although intended for the practical man1 and not professing to be a graded course of educational woodwork1 the ,volume is one which ,handicraft ,instructors will find of the greatest value in conducting woodwork classes4 ,no book hitherto published contains such a variety of illustrations of joints1 almost all of which will form suitable exercises of practical educational importance in a woodworking course4 ,j4 ,c4 ,s4 ,b4 ,illustration3 ,old ,oak ,chests1 showing the ,method of ,structure which forms the origin of most of our ,english ,furniture4 7,from ,the ,woodworker1 ,january1 #aibg47 ,,contents ,,page ,,the ,,glued ,,joint #a ,,the ,,halved ,,joint #ac ,,the ,,bridle ,,joint #ce ,,the ,,tongued ,,and ,,grooved ,,joint #dh ,,the ,,mortise ,,and ,,tenon ,,joint #fd ,,the ,,dowelling ,,joint #ic ,,the ,,scarf ,,joint #ajc ,,the ,,hinged ,,joint #aji ,,shutting ,,joints #abg ,,the ,,dovetail ,,joint #acb ,,dovetail ,,grooving #afj ,,the ,,mitred ,,joint #afc ,,joints ,,for ,,curved ,,work #agb ,,miscellaneous ,,joints #agf ,,puzzle ,,joints #ahi ,,index #bji ,illustration3 ,staircase of the ,second ,half of ,seventeenth ,century4 7,from ,the ,woodworker1 ,september1 #aibi47 ,,the ,,glued ,,joint ,the glued joint in its various forms is in use in every country in the world1 and is frequently met with in mummy cases and other examples of ancient woodwork4 ,alternative names under which it is known are the butt joint1 the rubbed joint1 the slipped joint1 whilst in certain localities it is known as the slaped 7pronounced slayped7 joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,simplest ,form of ,glued or ,rubbed ,joint4 ,the glued joint is made by planing two pieces of timber so that when placed together they are in contact with each other at every point2 they are then usually united with glue4 ,fig4 #a shows a sketch of a butt joint in its simplest form4 ,in ,fig4 #b is indicated the method of holding the joint whilst being glued2 the upright portion is held rigid in the bench vice1 thus leaving the left hand to hold the piece which is to be jointed1 whilst the right hand operates the glue brush4 ,the pieces of wood which form a butt joint may be glued together with or without the aid of cramps or artificial pressure4 ,if the joint is to be made without cramping1 the two surfaces of the timber are warmed so as not to chill the glue4 ,the surfaces are then glued and put together and rubbed backwards and forwards so as to get rid of the superfluous glue4 ,they are then put aside to dry4 ,,glueing4--,the better the glue penetrates into the pores of the wood1 the stronger the joint will be2 for this reason timber of the loose-fibred variety1 such as pine1 etc41 will hold up at the joint better than hardwoods like teak and rosewood4 ,the glue used for jointing should be neither too thick nor too thin2 the consistency of cream will be found suitable for most purposes4 ,it should be nice and hot1 and be rapidly spread over the surface of the wood4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,how the ,wood is held whilst ,glueing4 ,if light-coloured woods1 such as pine1 satinwood1 sycamore1 etc41 have to be jointed1 a little flake white should be procured and mixed into the liquid glue4 ,this will prevent the glue showing a thin black line on the joint4 ,broad surfaces of close-grained hardwood having a shiny surface are usually carefully roughened with a fine toothing plane blade previous to glueing4 ,,supporting ,,the ,,joint4--,the jointed boards should not be reared up against a bench leg or wall without having any support in the centre1 as dotted line at ,fig4 #e1 because in all probability they will fracture before the glue has time to set2 and1 when we go to take them up to renew working operations1 we shall be annoyed to find that they have assumed a position similar to that at ,fig4 #e 7shown exaggerated71 and this will1 of course1 necessitate re-jointing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,correct ,jointing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,faulty ,jointing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,boards unsupported4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,boards supported4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--7;,a7 ,glued ,slip1 7,b7 ,glued ,moulding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--;,grain alternating4 ,a correct method to adopt is seen at ,fig4 #f4 ,here we have supported the joint by rearing up against the wall a couple of pieces of batten1 one at each end of the board1 thus supporting it throughout its entire width until the glue is thoroughly set4 ,the two or more pieces of timber in a butt joint adhere by crystallisation of the glue and atmospheric pressure4 ,a well-fitted joint made with good quality glue is so strong that1 when boards of #c feet and upwards are jointed together by this method1 the timber in most cases will break with the grain sooner than part at the joint4 ,butt joints may be cramped up1 if desired1 and it is customary to warm them as previously stated4 ,in the absence of the usual iron cramp1 the amateur may make an excellent wooden arrangement out of any odd pieces of timber that happen to be handy4 ,two blocks of hardwood are screwed on the base board at a suitable distance for the work in hand2 the boards to be jointed are glued and placed in position between the blocks2 and the two hardwood wedges are inserted and hammered in opposite directions to each other1 thus exerting the desired pressure4 ,an example of this method of cramping is shown in ,fig4 #be1 which also indicates the use of iron dogs4 ,when jointing1 care should be taken to first plane up the boards true on one side--i4e41 take them out of winding4 ,the method of testing for this is shown at ,fig4 #i1 and it may with advantage be used when jointing the edges of the boards4 ,two laths or strips of wood are planed up to exactly the same width1 having their edges straight and parallel4 ,one edge of each lath may1 if desired1 be bevelled a little4 ,the method of using these twist sticks or winding laths is to put them on the board as indicated1 and sight along their top edges4 ,the winding laths1 being much longer than the width of the board1 show up the irregularity greatly pronounced4 ,,the ,,tools generally used for making the butt joints are3-- ,the jack plane1 for roughing the edges1 etc4 ,the wooden trying plane 7or iron jointing plane7 for trueing up the work4 ,the try square for testing purposes4 ,the winding laths and straight edge4 ,,the ,,method ,,of ,,work is as follows3 ,each board is in turn put in the vice and planed straight lengthwise2 it is then tested with winding laths and a try square 7the latter method is shown at ,fig4 #bb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4--,testing ,surface with ,winding ,laths4 ,the boards are then put on the top of one another as at ,fig4 #a and tested with a straight edge2 they should appear true as shown at ,fig4 #c2 if they show faulty as at ,fig4 #d the joints must be again fitted until the required degree of accuracy is obtained4 ,difficulties may be avoided by care in selecting timber suitable for jointing1 and it must be remembered that timber shrinks circumferentially 7the heart side becoming curved7 as dotted lines in ,fig4 #aj4 ,if the timber be jointed with all the heart side one way as at ,fig4 #aj1 the tendency will be for it to cast as shown by the dotted line4 ,if the timber be alternated as at ,fig4 #aa1 the tendency will be to cast wavy1 whereas if quartered timber can be obtained it will stand practically straight as the tendency to shrink is in thickness only4 ,the grain of quartered timber is shown in ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4--,showing ,heart side of ,timber one way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--;,heart side of ,timber shown alternated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4--;,grain of ,quartered ,timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4--;,boards showing uniformity of ,grain4 ,judgment should also be exercised to avoid jointing in which one piece of timber is wild and large in the grain1 and the adjoining piece of a mild-grained nature4 ,jointed boards should always be glued up with the grain running in the same direction if possible2 this we show at ,fig4 #ac1 and nothing looks worse than a dressing chest end or similar piece of work in which the grain runs haphazard4 ,when jointing thin timber 7say1 #a_/d-;in41 #c_/h-;in41 #a_/b-;in4 and #e_/h-;in4 boards7 the best method is to use a shooting board 7,fig4 #bf74 ,it must be noted1 however1 that a shooting board and plane practically never give a true right angle1 owing to wear and the grinding of the blade4 ,therefore1 the boards should not all be laid with the face mark on the shooting board whilst the edges are shot1 because any inequality would be multiplied by the number of pieces jointed4 ,a better method is to alternate the boards1 face side up1 then face side down1 whilst shooting the edges2 this will prevent convexity or concavity on the face of the jointed board1 because any slight error in the angle is neutralised 7see ,fig4 #h74 ,,applications ,,of ,,the ,,joint4--,the following show various applications of the butt or glued joint3-- ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--;,carcase ,wing-pieces ,glued on4 ,fig4 #g;,a shows a mahogany or other hardwood slip glued on the edge of a cheaper wood1 such as pine or whitewood1 as is the case on bookcase shelves when only the front edge is seen and polished4 ,fig4 #g;,b shows a moulding glued on a shelf1 both mould and shelf in this instance being of polished hardwood4 ,a shelf of this type might be used in a recess1 the object of the overhanging moulding being to hide a small #c_/h-;in4 iron rod which would carry the curtain rings and heading of the curtain which covers the recess4 ,the shelf would be fixed about #c ft4 #i ins4 to #d ft4 #c ins4 from the floor4 ,fig4 #ad shows the wing pieces glued on the top bearer of carcase work4 ,the application of this bearer in its position will be shown in the chapter on ,dovetailing4 ,fig4 #ae shows a butt joint planed at an angle of #de degrees 7commonly called a mitre71 used for box feet1 etc4 ,fig4 #af shows jointing up of an ogee-shaped panel4 ,the dotted lines indicate the thickness of the timber previous to its being worked up to the finished shape4 ,bow-fronted and semicircular panels are jointed in a similar manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4--;,butting ,mitred ,angle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4--;,jointing ,ogee-shaped ,panel4 ,fig4 #ag shows timber jointed at right angles to the upright piece1 and at an angle of #cj degrees4 ,fig4 #ah indicates quarter-circle jointing1 as used in round-cornered chests of drawers1 wardrobes1 cupboards1 etc4 ,fig4 #ai is similar to ,fig4 #ah1 but with hollow 7or concave7 corners4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4--;,jointed ,timber at #cj and #ij angles4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah 7above74--,convex ,corner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai 7below74--,concave ,corner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4--;,jointing a shaped ,spandrel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4--;,building up ,case of ,piano ,front4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4--,use of the ,try-square for ,testing ,edge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4--;,example of ,circular ,laminated work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4--;,glueing ,ploughslips to ,drawer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4--,method of holding ,glued ,joints with ,iron ,dogs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4--,method of using ,shooting ,board4 ,fig4 #bj gives us the jointing up of a shaped spandrel to the required width4 ,in a case of this description suitably grained and coloured wood should be selected1 otherwise the bad match will at once draw attention to the joint4 ,fig4 #ba shows the application of butt or glued jointing to the building up of the core of a piano fall previous to shaping up and veneering4 ,fig4 #bc4--,laminated work--the building up of circular rims for cabinet and joinery work4 ,plan and elevation show rim pattern of a pulley as used in the pattern-making trade4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4--;,cramping ,glued ,joints3 ,handscrews and ,batten shown at left2 temporary ,batten at right to keep the wood flat4 ,fig4 #bd4--,the glueing of a ploughslip to a drawer side is seen here1 the ploughslip being used to carry the drawer bottom4 ,fig4 #bf shows the method of jointing with shooting board and trying plane2 the right hand operates the plane whilst the left hand holds the wood firm upon the shooting board4 ,owing to the importation of narrow and faulty timber the necessity of jointing is greater to-day than ever it was1 wide timber of course meaning higher cost for raw material4 ,the method of using iron dogs is illustrated in ,fig4 #be1 and it will be observed that owing to the wedge-like formation of each fang 7see enlarged sketch7 the dog exerts the necessary pressure to close the joint4 ,at the centre of this illustration is suggested the home-made hardwood blocks1 baseboard and wedges referred to on page #d4 ,fig4 #bg shows how the iron sash cramps are used to apply pressure to the joint4 ,as this method is in some cases apt to bend and distort thin boards it is wise practice to fix 7as a temporary measure7 a stout piece of straight wood on to the board to be joined by using two handscrews as shown at the left hand of the illustration4 ,at the right hand of the sketch a wooden cramping arrangement of the box type is given1 and by wedging up the boards are closed together4 ,it is obvious that if this type of box cramp be used it will prevent the boards buckling and the handscrew method at the left may be dispensed with4 ,,the ,,halved ,,joint ,the halved joint is frequently known as half-lapping1 and sometimes as checking and half-checking4 ,in the majority of cases it is made by halving the two pieces1 i4e41 by cutting half the depth of the wood away4 ,there are1 however1 exceptions to this rule1 as in the case of three-piece halving 7or1 as it is sometimes called1 third lapping7 and in the halving of timber with rebated or moulded edges4 ,halving is one of the simplest methods of connecting two pieces of timber1 especially where it is desired to make frames and bracket supports for either inside or outside use4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4--;,frame1 with various halved joints4 ,these joints1 numbered #a1 #b1 #c1 etc41 are shown in detail in ,figs4 #bi to #ch4 ,fig4 #bh shows the elevation of an imaginary frame which is indicated as made up of a number of halving joints2 it shows also the application of the various joints to this class of work4 ,each joint used in the construction of this frame may be dealt with separately4 ,the numbers marked on ,fig4 #bh refer to the individual joints1 shown separately in ,figs4 #bi to #ch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4--;,halved ,corner ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4--;,halved ,t ,joint4 ,fig4 #bi shows the ,halved ,joint at the corner of the frame where the two pieces form a right angle 7see ,fig4 #bh1 #a74 ,each piece is halved and shouldered at opposite sides1 thus forming a perfect fit one with the other and giving a strong joint with a minimum amount of labour4 ,for inside work the joint would be glued and screwed together1 the screw heads being countersunk so as not to come in contact with the cutting iron of the plane when levelling off the work4 ,for outside work1 in exposed positions where the work will have to withstand the weather1 the alternative method of smearing the joint with paint or with a mixture of varnish and white lead would be advisable1 the joint being nailed or screwed4 ,fig4 #bi shows the two pieces separated4 ,fig4 #cj shows a similar joint to the above1 but in this case the top rail runs through and it is generally spoken of as a ,halved ,t ,joint 7,fig4 #bh1 #b74 ,it may be used in nearly all cases where a top or bottom rail runs through an upright4 ,the method of securing the joint is as before4 ,fig4 #cj shows a sketch of the joint separated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4--,oblique ,halving with ,shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4--,oblique ,halving4 ,at ,fig4 #ca is shown an ,oblique ,halving ,joint1 where the oblique piece1 or strut1 does not run through 7,fig4 #bh1 #c74 ,this type of joint is used for strengthening framings and shelf brackets2 an example of the latter is shown at ,fig4 #dh4 ,a strut or rail of this type prevents movement or distortion to a frame diagonally 7generally spoken of in the trade as racking74 ,fig4 #ca shows the joint apart4 ,fig4 #cb is an example of ,oblique ,halving with the upper piece running through 7,fig4 #bh1 #d74 ,this joint is used in similar positions to ,fig4 #ca1 and has in some cases the disadvantage of showing end grain at the top of the frame4 ,the sketch shows the two pieces separated4 ,fig4 #cc is ,dovetail ,halving1 the dovetail running through the top piece 7,fig4 #bh1 #e74 ,this is a strong joint1 used where outside strain is likely to occur in the top piece1 the dovetail preventing the rail from being drawn away from the shoulder4 ,the two pieces are shown separate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4--;,dovetail ,halving4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4--,mitre ,halving4 ,at ,fig4 #cd is seen ,mitred ,halving1 a somewhat weak joint1 but necessary in mirror frames1 etc41 where good appearance is required on the face side 7,fig4 #bh1 #f74 ,its use is obvious if the face of the frame be moulded with beads or other sections which require to intersect one with the other4 ,this also applies if the frame be moulded on its face edges4 ,fig4 #ce is a halved joint with one side of the piece dovetailed 7,fig4 #bh1 #h74 ,this joint is used in similar positions to ,fig4 #cc1 and rather less labour is required in the making4 ,the two pieces are shown separate for clearness4 ,fig4 #cf indicates the ,halved ,joint1 the pieces at one end showing a double dovetail 7,fig4 #bh1 #g74 ,this particular joint is seldom used except for ,manual ,training purposes4 ,the illustration shows a sketch of the joint apart4 ,fig4 #cg is ,oblique ,dovetail ,halving1 one side of the piece being dovetailed4 ,the joint is used to prevent racking1 and as a cross brace to framing4 ,it is occasionally made with both its sides dovetailed as shown at ,fig4 #cc4 7,for reference1 see ,fig4 #bh1 #i47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4--;,halved ,joint with one side ,dovetailed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4--;,halved ,joint with ,double ,dovetail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4--,oblique ,dovetail ,halving4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4--,stopped ,dovetail ,halving4 ,fig4 #ch shows ,stopped ,dovetail ,halving4 ,in this case the dovetail is similar to ,fig4 #cc1 with the exception that it does not run through the bottom rail4 ,this is an advantage if the bottom edge of the rail is in evidence1 or if it is required to glue a moulding or hardwood facing slip on the lower edge4 ,the glue adheres better with the grain than it would end way of the grain1 and if slight shrinkage occurs across the width of the bottom rail the moulding would not be forced away by the upright 7see example at ,fig4 #bh1 #aj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4--;,cross ,halving ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4--;,cross ,halving ,joint ,edgeways4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4--,tee ,halving ,joint4 ,the joint lettered ,b in ,fig4 #bh is a ,cross ,halving ,joint where each piece runs through the other4 ,fig4 #ci shows this joint separated1 and ,fig4 #dj shows a similar joint separated where the joint is made edgeways4 ,fig4 #da shows a ,tee ,halving ,joint with a dovetail cut on the edge4 ,this is seldom used except as a woodwork exercise4 ,fig4 #db is a ,dovetailed ,halving ,joint used for lengthening timber1 and is also a favourite ,manual ,training model4 ,it might also come under the heading of scarf joint1 although rarely used in actual practice as such4 ,as a practical woodwork exercise it calls for accurate marking out and careful fitting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4--;,dovetailed ,halving ,joint used for ,lengthening ,timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4--;,dovetailed and ,halved ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4--;,dovetailed ,halved ,joint with ,shoulders4 ,fig4 #dc shows a combination of a halved joint dovetailed edgeways1 whilst ,fig4 #dd shows a dovetailed halved joint with the shoulders housed4 ,this latter is seldom used in actual work4 ,at ,fig4 #de we have the application of halving joints when constructing a barrow wheel4 ,the centre portion is an example of three pieces half-lapped or1 as it is sometimes called1 one-third lapped4 ,a sketch of the three pieces separated is shown at ,l1 ,b1 ,c1 ,fig4 #df4 ,this joint is extensively used in the pattern making trade for lap-jointing the arms of pulley patterns1 etc4 ,it is probably the most difficult of the halving joints to mark out and construct with the desired degree of accuracy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4--;,halved ,joints on ,barrow ,wheels4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4--;,detail of ,halved ,joints in ,fig4 #de4 ,fig4 #dg shows a combination of a bevelled dovetail half-lapped joint4 ,this is only used as a puzzle joint4 ,when neatly constructed and glued together it is apparently impossible to make it1 showing as it does a half lap on one side and a dovetailed half lap on the reverse side4 ,fig4 #dh is the end view of a kitchen table with drop leaf1 showing the skirting board scribed to the solid side4 ,a table of this type is fastened to the wall with two iron holdfasts which engage the ends of the table4 ,the hinged bracket frame shows the application of the halving joint to bracket supports for this and similar purposes1 such as brackets to support shelving1 etc4 ,in this example the hinged brackets turn underneath the table top1 and allow the leaf to drop out of the way when not required4 ,the dotted lines show the position of a shelf for boots and shoes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4--;,bevelled ,dovetailed ,half ,lap4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4--;,bracket of ,drop ,table4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #di and #ej4--,separate pieces of ,halved ,moulded ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4--,oblique ,cross ,halving ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4--,manual ,training ,halved ,exercise ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4--;,exercise ,dovetail ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4--;,carpentry ,tie ,joint4 ,figs4 #di and #ej indicate the halving of cross pieces which have their edges moulded2 the pieces are shown separately1 the moulding being omitted to give a clearer representation of the method of construction4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4--;,cross ,halving ,joint with ,housed ,corners4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4--,the parts of ,fig4 #ee shown separate4 ,fig4 #ea is an ,oblique ,cross ,halving ,joint where the two pieces are not at right angles4 ,a plan and elevation of the joint are shown at the left1 whilst a sketch of one piece of the joint is given in the right-hand illustration4 ,figs4 #eb and #ec are principally used as ,manual ,training models1 and call for patience and manual dexterity4 ,fig4 #ed is used in carpentry and joinery where a tie or cross piece ties joists or beams at an angle4 ,fig4 #ee shows the elevation and end view of a ,cross ,halving ,joint with housed or notched shoulders4 ,this joint is seldom used in actual practice4 ,the separate parts are given in ,fig4 #ef4 ,at ,fig4 #eg are shown two cross rails and an upright halved together4 ,this type of joint is used where three pieces meet1 as is the case in building the framing of a poultry house4 ,the joint is nailed together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4--;,cross ,rail and ,upright ,halved ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4--,workshop ,trestle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4--;,cellarette ,partition ,joints4 ,fig4 #eh is the end view of an ordinary workshop trestle1 showing the application of dovetailed halving where the legs have a tendency to strain outwards4 ,the inset sketch of joint shows the housing of the top rail to receive the legs4 ,fig4 #ei shows a deep drawer1 generally known as a cellarette1 and used in a sideboard to accommodate wine bottles4 ,here we have a good example of halving the cross pieces so as to form compartments4 ,the part shown separately illustrates the method of construction4 ,the ends of these pieces engage the housings or grooves of the drawer sides4 ,pigeon holes or compartments in stationery cases1 bookcases and writing bureaux are constructed in a similar manner1 although the method of housing1 or combined halving and housing1 is to be preferred in some cases4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4--;,joint used for ,table with ,circular ,top or ,rim4 ,at ,fig4 #fj is the plan of a circular table having a small circular shelf with the top removed4 ,the rims or framing are built by the method known as laminating 7see ,fig4 #bc in chapter on the ,the ,glued ,joint71 after which they are veneered on the face sides4 ,the application of the halving joint to the shaped bottom rails1 which in this case carry and support the small shelf1 is shown in the part elevation4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa 7,a74--,oxford ,frame with ,halved ,joints4 7,four alternative corner treatments are given47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa 7,b74--,halved ,joint of ,oxford ,frame with front edges champered4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa 7,c74--,back view of ,oxford ,frame4 ,fig4 #fa 7,a7 shows the well-known ,oxford frame1 illustrating halved joints when the edge is rebated4 ,figs4 #fa 7,b7 and #fa 7,c7 make clear the construction of this type of joint4 ,alternative suggestions are shown for the treatment of the corners1 the simple inlay being black and white 7ebony and holly or boxwood74 ,frames of this type are made in various widths and sizes and are used for pictures1 mirrors1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4--,the ,two ,pieces of a ,halved ,joint4 ,the tools used for making joints of the above class are3 planes1 the gauge1 tenon or other saw1 chisels1 try square1 and in some cases a joiner's bevel to obtain and mark the necessary angles1 pencil and marking knife4 ,plane up the face side and face edge of the timber1 gauge and plane to both thickness and width2 mark shoulders with pencil or marking knife2 gauge to the thickness of the required halving2 saw waste portions away2 pare up with chisel to a good fit2 glue or glue and screw1 or use paint as previously mentioned1 and then level off the surfaces4 ,,setting ,,out ,,the ,,halved ,,joint4--,although at first sight the halved joint may appear to be a very easy item of construction1 it requires much care and attention in marking out and sawing4 ,fig4 #fb shows the two pieces which form the joint separated1 and it will be noticed that each piece of wood has half its thickness cut away1 so as to accommodate the other piece4 ,this type of joint is used where two pieces of wood cross each other at right angles1 or at an angle as shown in ,fig4 #ea4 ,the halving joint is used also for joining two pieces of wood at their ends1 as1 for instance1 the corner of a frame1 one half of this joint being shown at ,fig4 #fe 7,b74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4--;,how the ,timber is ,marked4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4--,marking the ,joint with ,try ,square4 ,to make the joint1 the timber should be carefully planed to its exact width and thickness4 ,the two pieces may then be placed upon the bench 7as shown at ,fig4 #fc7 or fixed in the vice4 ,find the centre of the timber1 ,c1 ,fig4 #fc1 and set out half the width of the wood on each side of the dotted centre line4 ,thus1 suppose the wood 7,w7 to be #b ins4 wide1 then set #a in4 on each side of the centre line4 ,take a square as at ,fig4 #fd1 and with a sharp penknife blade score or cut a line all round each piece of timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4--,using the ,marking ,gauge4 ,next take up a marking gauge1 and set the marking point to half the thickness of the wood4 ,the distance may be measured1 and its exactness tested1 by pricking a small hole from each side of the wood with the marking gauge and carefully noting that the pricked holes coincide4 ,the gauge mark is clearly shown in the various illustrations4 ,now1 take a pencil and scribble or mark waste on the parts you intend to cut away4 ,this will save trouble later on1 especially if you are making several joints at once4 ,take your sharp penknife or marking knife blade1 and cut fairly deeply into the marked line on the portion you are going to pare away4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4--;,chiselling away ,wood up to ,gauge ,line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4--;,how work is held when ,sawing ,shoulder4 ,fix the wood firmly in your vice1 or against your cutting board or bench stop1 as may be more convenient to you1 and with a sharp chisel cut away the wood up to the marked line1 as at ,fig4 #ff4 ,the channel in the sketch is exaggerated1 so as to show the method clearly4 ,the object of using a penknife or marking knife to mark your work1 instead of using a pencil1 will be obvious4 ,owing to the knife having scored about #a_/af in4 deep across the fibres of the wood1 the timber will come away cleanly when the chisel is used1 as at ,fig4 #ff4 ,the small channel thus made will form a guide in which to start your tenon or dovetail saw2 it prevents the saw cutting on the wrong side of the marked line and thus making the halving too wide4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4--,paring away ,waste with ,chisel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4--,showing an ,oblique ,halved ,joint4 ,,sawing4--,lay the work on the cutting board as at ,fig4 #fg2 or1 if you prefer1 put the work in the vice4 ,carefully saw down the work until you just touch the gauge line4 ,do not press heavily with the saw2 use it lightly2 the weight of the back iron which is fixed on the saw will ensure the saw feeding into the work quite fast enough4 ,if the saw is newly sharpened it will1 in fact1 be an advantage to slightly ease the weight of the saw from off the wood1 owing to the keenness of its edge4 ,if the halving is a very wide one1 additional cuts may be sawn between the outside marks1 and these will greatly facilitate the removal of the waste wood when paring it away4 ,for sawing the joint reference may be made to the chapter on ,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4--,sawing the ,cheek of a ,halving ,joint4 ,,paring away the waste material with a chisel is the next step1 and this is shown at ,fig4 #fh4 ,the work may be chiselled either in a vertical or a horizontal position4 ,the horizontal position is the easiest for the amateur who has a vice or handscrew1 because he may hold the work securely with a mechanical device and so avoid the unnecessary risk to his fingers4 ,take the chisel and cut away ,a1 ,fig4 #fh2 now turn the chisel and cut away ,b2 after which keep the chisel horizontal and cut off the top of the hill1 as it were1 ,c4 ,repeat the three operations until you gradually pare the wood away exactly to the gauge line4 ,when chiselling1 if you find a tendency for the work to chip or crumble at the back edge owing to the forward pressure of the chisel1 turn your wood round and begin to cut from the other edge1 allowing the chisel to finish paring at the centre4 ,,joints ,,other ,,than ,a ,,right ,,angle4--,if the halving joint is at an angle similar to the sketch shown at ,fig4 #fi1 great care will have to be exercised in the use of the chisel1 owing to the change in the direction of the grain of the wood4 ,the arrow marks in this sketch distinctly indicate the direction in which the chiselling must be done so as to give a smooth result4 ,this change of direction for cutting also applies to the bottom of the halving joint4 ,,cutting ,,joint ,,at ,,end ,,of ,,timber 7,fig4 #gj74--,should the halving joint be used at the end of a piece of wood1 as at ,fig4 #cj1 the waste material may be roughly sawn away and the flat surface trimmed up with a chisel4 ,to saw out this type of halving joint1 proceed to work the shoulder line as already described2 then place the piece of wood obliquely in the vice as shown 7,fig4 #gj7 and proceed to saw down the vertical line1 carefully watching the gauge line to see that you saw on the waste side of the lines4 ,then turn the piece of timber with its opposite edge towards you1 and again use the saw as illustrated4 ,you will this time only have to watch the gauge mark on the edge of the wood1 because the saw will readily follow in the saw kerf already made4 ,now place the wood vertically in the vice1 and keeping the saw in a horizontal position1 saw down to the shoulder line4 ,halving joints properly made and fitted should knock together with the weight of the clenched fist2 the use of a heavy mallet or hammer will deface the work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4--;,joints used in the erection of a ,queen ,post ,roof ,truss4 ,,the ,,bridle ,,joint ,a bridle joint is often defined as the reverse of a mortise and tenon1 and is chiefly used in the carpentry and joinery trades4 ,the name probably originated from the fact that it bears some resemblance to the manner in which a bit slips into the horse's mouth and is fastened to the bridle4 ,there are fewer varieties of the bridle joint than of the halved or the mortise and tenon2 and this being the case we may take the opportunity of giving a few detailed directions1 with explanatory illustrations1 on the setting out and the making4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4--,simple ,bridle ,joint4 ,fig4 #gb shows a bridle joint in what is perhaps its simplest form1 the separate pieces being given at the left and the completed joint at the right4 ,a joint of this type may be applied in nearly all cases where a halved or a mortise and tenon joint could be used4 ,bridle joints have an advantage as regards appearance over the mortise and tenoned variety in cases such as ,fig4 #gc1 which shows an occasional table leg fitted to the circular top framing4 ,the bridle joint here allows the grain of the leg to run through to the top1 and gives a better and more workmanlike appearance to the completed article4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4--,table ,leg ,bridle-jointed to ,rail4 ,fig4 #gd is a ,mitred bridle joint1 the part a showing the upright portion separated4 ,this is a most useful joint for positions similar to that shown in the small glass frame1 ,fig4 #ge4 ,the wood framing in this case is only #a-c_/h in4 in width1 and if a mortise were used it would have to be exceptionally small4 ,the shaped rail at the bottom of this frame again shows the application of the bridle joint4 ,fig4 #gf shows an ,oblique bridle joint1 used in many instances as a brace1 or strut1 to prevent framing from racking4 7,see also ,figs4 #ca and #cb47 ,fig4 #gg is a ,stopped bridle joint1 used in positions where the top or bottom edge of the work meets the eye1 and where1 if the rail were allowed to run through1 the end grain would appear unsightly4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4--,mitre ,bridle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4--,mirror ,frame with ,bridle ,joints4 ,fig4 #gh is a so-called bridle-joint at the corner of a frame4 ,this is also called an ,open slot mortise and tenon joint1 a good strong1 serviceable joint which can be used instead of the closed mortise and tenon type1 its advantage being that less labour is required in the making4 7,see also ,fig4 #afi47 ,fig4 #gi is an ,oblique angle bridle joint1 used in similar positions to the above1 but when the two pieces meet at an acute angle at the end of a frame4 ,fig4 #hj shows the application of the bridle joint to a roof truss4 ,two sketches are shown at the joining of the tie beam and the principal rafter4 ,the joint a is the type generally used4 7,see also ,fig4 #ga for the joints in a queen post roof47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4--,oblique ,bridle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4--,stopped ,bridle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4--;,bridle ,joint at ,corner of ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4--,oblique ,angle ,bridle ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4--;,application of ,bridle ,joint to ,roof ,truss4 ,,setting ,,out ,,and ,,marking4--,it is a safe rule1 when setting out a bridle joint1 to divide the thickness of the timber into three equal parts4 ,this will leave the timber on each side of the tongue equal to the thickness of the tongue1 thus giving uniform strength to the joint4 ,the bridle joint is chiefly used for connecting the internal parts of wooden frames4 ,it is stronger than the halving joint1 and1 owing to its peculiar construction1 requires little in the way of pegs1 screws or nails to secure it in position4 ,fig4 #ha illustrates the joint1 both open and closed4 ,to understand the method of setting out and marking1 glance at the sketch1 ,fig4 #ha4 ,it is not necessary that the bridle piece ,a be the same width as the cross piece ,b2 but it must be remembered when setting out the joint with the marking knife or pencil that the width marked ,w on piece ,b must be equal to the width ,w on the piece ,a4 ,the timber should be fairly accurately sawn or planed to the same thickness1 and all edges should be square and true4 ,the wood is placed upon the bench1 and the joint marked out by using a marking knife or penknife blade and the try square4 ,a knife blade is much better than a pencil1 as the sharp edge severs the fibres of the wood and gives a finer line than the pencil4 ,it is not always necessary to exactly square and trim the end of piece ,a2 it may with advantage in many cases be left at least #a_/d in4 longer than necessary and levelled off with the saw1 plane and chisel after the joint is put together4 7,see ,method of ,cutting in ,fig4 #ib1 page #dg47 ,when the piece ,a has to have a bridle joint fitted at each end1 it is customary to cut the timber about #c_/h in4 longer than necessary1 and mark the shoulder lines ,c to the exact length1 after which the joints are cut4 ,this leaves the ends standing over the horizontal rails1 and1 after fixing the complete frame together1 the small projecting ends are levelled off flush with the cross rails4 ,,gauging4--,after squaring all the shoulder lines round the timber with the knife and try square1 the mortise gauge should be set so as to strike the two gauge lines marked ,g1 ,figs4 #hc and #hd1 at one operation4 ,if the worker does not possess a mortise gauge the lines may be marked at two distinct operations with the aid of the marking gauge 7,fig4 #hb74 ,the gauge should be adjusted so as to mark the wood into thirds1 and the stock of the gauge 7the portion of the gauge containing the thumb screw in ,fig4 #hb7 must be used from the face side of the timber when gauging up the whole of the pieces forming a frame4 ,the face mark on the work is indicated by a glorified comma1 and the edge mark is shown by ,x1 as in the various illustrations4 ,fig4 #hb shows the method of holding the gauge in the right hand whilst gauging the lines on the work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4--;,bridle ,joint1 open and closed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4--;,gauging the ,timber4 ,the joint1 when marked out1 will appear as at ,figs4 #hc and #hd1 and the portions which are to be cut away may be shaded with a pencil as indicated2 this will prevent mistakes arising whilst cutting the work1 especially by one who is not thoroughly familiar with the joint4 ,the distance ,a ,b1 in ,fig4 #hd1 must not be less than the distance ,a ,b in ,fig4 #hc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc41 ,fig4 #hd4 ,the ,two ,parts of the ,joint ,marked4 ,,boring ,,away ,,waste4--,examine ,fig4 #hd2 the shaded portion in the centre has to be cut away1 and it will greatly facilitate the removal of this waste piece by boring a hole with a twist bit at the position shown4 ,the twist bit should be about #a_/h in4 less in diameter than the width between the gauge lines ,g4 ,the easiest method of boring out this hole is shown at ,fig4 #he1 which gives the correct position of the worker4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4--,vertical ,boring previous to ,chiselling4 ,,sawing4--,the wood should be put in the vice as ,fig4 #hf4 ,taking up a saw1 with the index finger on the side of the handle1 commence sawing1 and proceed until you come to the position indicated by the dotted hand and saw ,a2 this will leave a saw kerf or cut running diagonally from the shoulder line to corner of the wood4 ,release the vice and refix the wood so that it leans in exactly the opposite direction to ,fig4 #hf2 then reverse your own position and repeat the sawing1 so as to cut another diagonal saw cut from the shoulder line to the corner4 ,fix the wood upright1 as shown at ,fig4 #hg1 and saw as shown1 when you will find that the saw has no tendency to run out of the guide cuts already formed by the method used at ,fig4 #hf4 ,remember1 when commencing to saw at ,fig4 #hf1 that it is necessary to saw inside the gauge line2 otherwise the joint will be too slack1 owing to the amount of sawdust removed by the thickness of the saw blade4 ,the index finger on the side of the saw1 pointing in the direction of the saw cut1 will greatly help the worker to saw in a straight line1 as it is natural to point with this finger to any object that is to be aimed at4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4--;,how the ,saw is held for the first ,cut4 ,cut down the other line in a similar manner1 and then with a chisel of suitable width carefully chop away the waste material4 ,the wood may be placed edge way upon the bench1 or in the vice1 and the chisel should be held vertically4 ,the hole which has been bored with the twist bit will allow the chips which are cut away to offer little or no resistance to the chisel blade4 ,the chiselling should not all be done from one side1 or a chipped under-edge will be the result2 it is better to chisel the work until half-way through and then turn the other edge of the wood uppermost and again begin to chisel from the top4 ,this method will finish the cutting in the centre of the work and prevent burred and ragged or chipped edges at the shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4--,third1 or ,horizontal ,cut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4--;,chiselling ,operation4 ,,cutting ,,the ,,shoulders4--,with regard to working the piece ,b1 ,fig4 #ha1 place the wood against the bench stop or in the vice1 and taking up a #c_/d-;in4 chisel carefully cut away a small channel1 as shown at ,fig4 #hh2 treat the other shoulder lines in a similar manner4 ,if the marking knife or penknife blade has been used with a fair amount of pressure so as to score the fibres of the wood1 this small channel1 which is to form a guide for the saw1 will quickly and easily be cut4 ,next place the wood in the vice or on the cutting board as shown at ,fig4 #hi1 and begin by sawing lightly at the back edge as shown4 ,when the saw has entered the wood #a_/d in4 gradually bring the handle down from position ,a to position ,b 7dotted lines7 whilst the saw is in motion4 ,continue sawing until just on the gauge line2 then treat the other shoulder lines in a similar manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4--,sawing the ,shoulders4 ,,chiselling ,,away ,,waste4--,fix your wood firmly in any suitable manner1 vice or otherwise1 and1 holding your chisel tilted as at ,fig4 #ij1 pare away the blacked portion #a2 then pare away the blacked portion #b2 after which hold the chisel flat and by gradual operations pare away the dotted lines #c1 until you come down to the gauge line2 then repeat the method of cutting on the opposite side of the wood4 ,if any difficulty be experienced by chipped or ragged edges whilst chiselling1 it can easily be overcome by chiselling alternately from the outside of the wood1 so that the finish of the chisel cut takes place in the centre of the work4 ,some prefer to chisel away the waste by placing the wood on its edge and using the chisel vertically instead of horizontally4 ,the same methods 7#a1 #b and #c7 hold good in this case4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4--;,chiselling away ,waste4 ,,joints ,,other ,,than ,,at #ij4--,the two pieces forming a bridle joint are not always at right angles1 as at ,fig4 #ha2 in many instances it is necessary that the joint be at other than #ij degrees4 ,the work1 however1 is treated in a similar manner1 with the exception that an adjustable joiner's bevel is used instead of a try square to mark out the shoulder lines1 and that a change of direction in the grain of the wood will occur when chiselling out the work4 ,fig4 #ia indicates the change in the grain of the wood1 and the adjustable joiner's bevel is also shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4--;,bridle ,joint at ,angle other than ,right ,angle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4--,sawing off ,waste from ,bridle ,joint4 7,see reference on page #ci47 ,,the ,,tongued ,,and ,,grooved ,,joint ,the tongued and grooved joint is used in one form or another throughout the whole of the woodworking trades1 covering1 as it does1 a great variety of work from the laying of flooring boards to the construction of dressers1 bookcases and other cabinet work4 ,,flooring and match boarding generally have the tongues worked on the solid board1 and examples of a few of the various types are shown as follows3-- ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4--,tongued and ,grooved ,flooring ,board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id41 ,fig4 #ie4 ,method of ,nailing ,hardwood ,floors4 ,fig4 #ic shows the end view of the ordinary #g_/h-;in4 ,tongued and ,grooved ,flooring board1 as used in the construction of floors for mills1 workshops and cottage property4 ,this type of flooring is nailed to the joists in the ordinary manner1 no attempt being made to conceal the nails used4 ,fig4 #id is a section of flooring which is generally made of hardwood1 such as maple1 oak1 or jarrah4 ,it is used in positions such as ballroom and skating rink floors1 etc41 the tongue and groove being worked in such a manner that the joint covers the nails as shown4 ,each nail is driven into its position at one edge of the board1 the groove holding the next board and hiding the nail 7,fig4 #ie74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4--,tongued and ,grooved ,matchboarding1 with ,bead on ,one ,side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4--,tongued and ,grooved ,matchboarding1 with ,bead at ,each ,side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4--,matchboarding1 ,tongued1 ,grooved and ,vee'd4 ,fig4 #if shows an example of matchboarding known as ,tongued1 ,grooved and ,beaded on one side only1 and ,fig4 #ig shows a similar type tongued1 grooved and beaded on both sides4 ,this variety of matchboarding is known in the trade as ,t4 ,g4 and ,b4 ,it is used for nailing on framing to form partitions for rooms1 offices1 etc41 for panelling corridors1 etc41 and for making framed and ledged doors1 building tool houses1 cycle sheds and other outhouses4 ,fig4 #ih is an example of matchboarding that is tongued1 grooved and vee'd on one side1 and ,fig4 #ii shows tongued1 grooved and vee'd both sides4 ,these are used for similar purposes to ,figs4 #if and #ig1 and many prefer the ,v matchboarding variety because it is more easily painted than the beaded variety4 ,the object of working a bead or beads on matchboarding is to break the jointing of the various pieces and to aim at ornamental effect2 also to prevent unsightliness should the timber shrink slightly4 ,when a moderate amount of shrinkage takes place1 as is nearly always the case1 the joint at the side of the bead appears to the casual observer to be the fillet or channel worked at the side of the bead4 ,if the tongues are not painted before the work is put together1 the shrinkage will cause the raw wood to show and thus make the joint too much in evidence4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4--,matchboarding ,vee'd ,both ,sides4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4--;,double-tongued ,matchboarding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4--;,double-dovetailed1 ,tongued and ,grooved4 ,fig4 #ajj shows a ,double tongued and grooved joint used in the wholesale cabinet factories4 ,it is preferred for the jointing of cabinet stock1 and the amateur can make a similar joint by working two grooves and inserting loose tongues4 ,fig4 #aja is the end view of a ,double-dovetailed1 tongued and grooved joint1 and ,fig4 #ajb is a sketch of a similar joint having only one dovetailed tongue4 ,from a constructional point of view ,fig4 #aja is far and away the best joint that has yet been produced4 ,unfortunately1 however1 there is not at the present time any hand tool that will economically produce it1 owing probably to the fact that the joint is the subject of a patent4 ,the dovetail tongue tapers slightly throughout its entire length1 gripping the joint on the principle of the wedge and squeezing the glue into the pores of the wood4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4--;,joint with ,single ,dovetail ,tongue and ,groove4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4--7;,a7 ,cross ,tongue4 7,b7 ,feather ,tongue4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajd4--,method of ,secret-nailing ,hardwood ,flooring ,boards4 ,,cabinet-,,work ,,joints4--,with regard to tongued and grooved joints which apply more particularly to the jointing of cabinet work1 ,fig4 #ic is produced by planes which are specially made for the purpose4 ,one plane makes the tongue and another the groove4 ,the handiest sizes to buy are those which joint #c_/h in41 #e_/h in41 and #c_/d in4 timber1 it being usual to dowel or loose-tongue thicker boards4 ,the #c_/h in4 partitions 7or1 as they are sometimes called1 dustboards7 between the drawers of a sideboard or dressing chest are in good work jointed in this manner4 ,the #e_/h in4 and #c_/d in4 ends and tops of pine or ,american whitewood dressing tables1 wardrobes1 etc41 call for the larger sized plane4 ,,loose ,,tongues4--,there are two methods of jointing with loose tongues1 viz41 the use of the cross tongue1 ,fig4 #ajc ,a1 and the use of the feather tongue1 ,fig4 #ajc ,b4 ,cross tongues are the stronger when glued in their position and can be used very much thinner than feather tongues4 ,feather tongues are cut diagonally across the grain as illustrated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4--;,cradle for ,planing4 ,fig4 #aje is a cradle for planing up loose tongues to the required width 7generally #g_/h in474 ,two grooves are made in a piece of #a-a_/d in4 hardwood2 one groove is used for planing the width way of the tongue and the other for planing the edge way4 ,these tongues can be cut to accurate size on a circular saw bench if power and machinery are at hand4 ,,applications ,,of ,,the ,,joint4--,fig4 #ajf is a sketch of a portion of a sideboard top1 showing the plough groove ready worked out to receive the tongue2 the other half of the top is treated in a similar manner4 ,it will be noticed that the groove is not worked through the full length of the board1 but stopped about #a-a_/d in4 from each end2 this leaves a square joint at each end of the top on which the moulding is worked4 ,if the groove be run through the board it looks very unsightly when the mould is finished4 ,fig4 #ajg is a shaped spandrel1 such as is fixed in the recess of a sideboard or cupboard or shop window fitment4 ,it is of such a width that1 were it cut from a wide board1 the shaped portion would be apt to break off owing to the short grain at ,c4 ,the shaping is therefore built up out of three separate pieces1 the grain running as indicated4 ,the loose tongue is represented by the dotted line and a section is shown of the joint at the line ,a ,b4 ,at the opposite corner the tongue is left blind1 i4e41 not run through the edge4 ,this is the method that should be used when the shaping is above the level of the eye4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4--,part of ,sideboard ,top2 grooved with ends left blind4 7,the boards are shown upright47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajg4--,shaped ,spandrel for ,recess4 ,fig4 #ajh shows part of a carcase of a dressing table4 ,the drawer runner ,a is shown grooved across the end to receive a cross tongue2 this cross tongue engages a similar groove in the front bearer4 ,this method of fastening the runner to the bearer is in everyday use4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4--,part ,carcase of ,dressing ,table4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4--;,framed ,writing ,table ,top4 ,fig4 #aji is a writing table top4 ,the centre boards are first jointed and glued up1 after which the ends and sides are grooved ready to receive the cross tongues4 ,the hardwood margins are shown at one end and at the front1 and the grooves are arranged so that1 on completion1 the marginal frame stands above the top just the amount of the thickness of the leather which will cover the table4 ,in some cases the margin at the end runs the same way of the grain as the top1 thus allowing for slight shrinkage4 ,cross tongues would of course be used in this case4 ,fig4 #aaj is a sketch showing one-quarter of a barred or tracery cabinet door4 ,an enlarged section of the astragal mould which is grooved to fit on the bar which forms the rebate is also shown4 ,fig4 #aaa is a ,combing or corner locking joint1 a method of making boxes by means of a continuous use of tongues and grooves instead of dovetails4 ,this type of joint is generally machine made4 ,the amateur1 however1 who is not proficient to undertake a dovetailed box frequently uses this method4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4--;,corner of ,barred ,door4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4--;,combing or ,locking ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4--,single ,loose ,tongue and ,double-tongue ,joint4 ,,corner ,,joints4--,fig4 #aab shows both a single loose tongue and a double solid tongue4 ,both are methods used to connect circular cornered work1 such as a counter end1 to the front framing4 ,fig4 #aac indicates a tongued and grooved joint suitable for edge or end jointing1 such as fitting matchboarding round a chimney breast1 making small jewel drawers1 etc4 ,fig4 #aad is a tongued and grooved joint with a bead worked on same to hide the joint1 sometimes called a staff-bead4 ,it would be used in positions such as boarding around an upright iron pillar1 etc41 the bead giving a neat finish at each corner4 ,fig4 #aae is a similar joint1 but at an obtuse angle4 ,an example of its use is in fixing boarding around an octagonal column of brickwork4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac41 ,fig4 #aad41 ,fig4 #aae4 ,examples of ,tongued and ,grooved ,corner ,joints4 ,fig4 #aaf shows a tongued and grooved mitre as used for strengthening the corners of cabinet work1 such as tea caddies1 small boxes1 plinths1 etc4 ,two pieces of wood are glued in position and allowed to set prior to glueing and cramping the joint proper4 ,these pieces are afterwards planed away1 thus leaving a clear surface to the box sides4 ,fig4 #aag shows the method of working the groove in the above joints4 ,the pieces are turned back to back1 the mitres thus making a right angle4 ,the guide on the grooving plane thus works against each face of the joint1 and this ensures correct jointing4 ,fig4 #aah is somewhat similar to ,fig4 #aac1 but with a quarter circle mould to hide the joint4 ,fig4 #aai indicates the building up of a double skirting mould4 ,c represents the brickwork1 ,a the oak-framed panelling1 and ,b the packing and fixing block4 ,a wide skirting of this type is made in two portions for convenience in working the moulding and to prevent undue shrinkage4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4--;,cramping a ,tongued and ,grooved ,mitre4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4--,working a ,groove4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4--;,corner ,joint with ,corner ,mould4 ,fig4 #abj illustrates the use of a tongued and grooved joint for fixing together the sides of a corner bracket1 and the same method holds good when jointing a corner cupboard4 ,a capping mould or top shelf will conceal the joint2 it then has the appearance of a glued butt joint1 but is of course considerably stronger4 ,no screws or nails are required if this joint be used4 ,,ploughing4--,when grooves have to be worked in the edge or face of a board to receive tongues1 the process is generally called ploughing1 and it is usually accomplished by a special tool called a plough 7or1 as it is occasionally spelt1 plow74 ,when a plough plane is bought it is usual to procure eight plough bits or blades of various sizes to fit the plane4 ,in ,fig4 #aba is given the sketch of a plough plane with the names of the various parts lettered thereon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4--;,double ,skirting ,mould4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4--;,joint for ,corner ,bracket or ,cupboard4 ,the board or boards which it is desired to groove are first planed straight and true1 exactly as though it were desired to make a glued or butt joint4 ,one of the boards is now placed edge way up in the vice and with the face side to the worker4 ,take the plough plane and select a suitably-sized blade2 fix it in the plane in the usual way1 allowing the cutting edge to project beyond the steel skate about #a_/cb in41 and securely drive up the wedge4 ,next loosen the small boxwood wedges at the side of each stem1 and adjust the plane by tapping the stems with a hammer until the cutting iron is in the desired position2 then knock up the small wedges nice and tight4 ,when setting the fence to or from the blade it is a wise precaution to measure the distance from the fence to the skate at each end of the plane2 this will ensure the skate being parallel to the fence4 ,the neglect of this is a source of annoyance to many amateurs4 ,now adjust the depth stop by turning the screw at the top of the plane1 measuring the depth of the required groove from the edge of the blade to the stop1 and carefully lock the screw which adjusts this stop4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4--,the ,plough ,plane and its ,parts4 ,the plane is now ready for use4 ,hold the fence close up to the side of the timber1 the hands in position as shown at ,fig4 #abb1 the position of the body being that generally assumed in planing4 ,move the plane backwards and forwards in the usual manner1 beginning the cut at the end of the board nearest to the vice jaws 7the front71 and proceed with the planing until the depth stop is in contact with the wood4 ,then take a step backwards and repeat the process until the whole length of the groove is ploughed4 ,care must be taken to force the fence up to the board with the left hand1 whilst the right hand thrusts the plane backwards and forwards1 and the plane must be kept vertical4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4--,method of using the ,plough ,plane4 ,,tongueing4--,the grooves having been completed1 the tongues have to be made4 ,fig4 #abc shows a sketch of a board and the method of marking out cross tongues 7,a7 and feather tongues 7,b74 ,the usual procedure for making cross tongues is to plane the end of the board and use a cutting gauge to give a line the required distance from the end 7see sketch74 ,the board is sawn with a tenon or panel saw1 and the piece of timber for the tongue is thus procured4 ,if a feather tongue is to be used it is cut diagonally from the board 7,b7 and the ends cut square as shown by the dotted line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4--,method of ,marking ,out for ,cross ,tongues and ,feather ,tongues4 ,feather tongues can be obtained in fairly long lengths out of narrow boards1 whilst on the other hand cross tongues are limited by the width of the board4 ,after cutting off the tongues1 they require planing with nicety to fit the grooves1 and the advantage of a grooved board 7,fig4 #aje7 will be appreciated4 ,a glue spoon similar to a plumber's ladle is generally used to pour the glue into the grooves1 and it is customary to glue the tongue into one board first2 after allowing this to set1 the joint is completed in the usual manner4 ,,tongueing ,,planes4--,fig4 #abd shows the end view of a tongueing plane for working matched joints out of the solid4 ,the method of holding and using the plane is similar to the directions given for using the plough4 ,the part lettered ,f 7in front7 represents the fence1 which in this case is not adjustable4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd41 ,fig4 #abe4 ,end ,views of ,tongueing and ,grooving ,planes4 ,in description ,fig4 #abe is similar to ,fig4 #abd4 ,the steel skate runs in the groove and supports the cutting blade similar to that in the plough plane1 and provided a grooving plane of this type is of suitable width it may be used for making grooves for loose tongues4 ,there is on the market a metal plane which is specially designed with handles at both ends4 ,this plane carries a grooving iron on one side and a tongueing iron on the other side2 thus with one plane both the tongue and the groove can be worked4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4--,tongueing ,shoulders of ,tenons4 ,fig4 #abf shows the method of tongueing the shoulders of tenons as used in thick timber which is to be veneered on the face4 ,a temporary piece of wood 7,a7 is put between the tenon cheek and the saw1 thus forming a guide for the latter4 ,after cutting one saw kerf a thicker piece is made and a second saw kerf cut2 the waste between the saw kerfs is now removed with an #a_/h in4 chisel and this completes the groove4 ,a tongue of this type acts as an extra tenon and prevents the joint from lipping 7becoming uneven7 on the face side4 ,,the ,,mortise ,,and ,,tenon ,,joint ,a mortise and tenon joint is the method of joining timber by working a solid rectangular projection in the one piece and cutting a corresponding cavity to receive it in the adjoining piece4 ,the projection is called the tenon1 and the cavity the mortise4 ,joints of this type are secured in various ways4 ,small wedges1 wooden dowels1 metal dowel pins1 glue and paint are frequently used1 and prior to the introduction of glue we have examples of ,egyptian furniture in which the mortise and tenon joints were united by a composition of cheese4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4--;,barefaced ,tenon ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abh4--,stub ,tenon4 ,,barefaced ,,tenons4--,fig4 #abg illustrates the joint in its simplest form and shows a tenon having only one shoulder4 ,this is called a barefaced tenon1 and it will be noticed that the portion which carries the mortise is thicker than the rail on which the tenon is cut4 ,the joint is therefore level 7or flush as it is called7 on one side only1 and it should never be used at the corner of a frame4 ,it is a useful interior joint for framing that has to be covered on the back side with matchboarding1 and allows the work to finish level at the back when the boarding has been applied 7see plan1 ,fig4 #abg74 ,,stub ,,or ,,stump ,,tenon 7,fig4 #abh2 also occasionally called a joggle tenon74--,the illustration shows a tenon as used in the interior of a frame4 ,the tenon is not allowed to run through the stile1 and unsightliness on the edge is thus avoided4 ,this type of tenon is often used at the corner of a frame1 and it then requires to be haunched4 ,a good workshop method of gauging the depth of the mortise for a stub tenon is shown in ,fig4 #abi2 a piece of gummed stamp paper is stuck on the side of the mortise chisel1 indicating the desired depth of the mortise4 ,this greatly facilitates the work1 as it is not necessary to be constantly measuring4 ,a ,,haunched ,,tenon as used at the end of a door frame is shown at ,fig4 #acj4--;,in this case it will be seen that the width of the tenon is reduced1 so that sufficient timber will be left at the end of the stile to resist the pressure of the tenon when the joint is driven together4 ,the short portion 7,a7 which is left on the tenon is called the haunch1 and the cavity it engages is termed the haunching4 ,the haunch and haunching prevent the two pieces of timber lipping1 or becoming uneven on the face side1 as would be the result if it were cut away entirely up to the shoulder4 ,fig4 #aca shows the type of tenon and haunch used when the stile or upright rail is grooved to receive a panel4 ,in this and similar cases the haunch is made the same width and the same depth as the groove2 the groove therefore acts as the haunching4 ,an application of this joint is shown in the top rail of the door frame1 ,fig4 #acb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4--,method of ,gauging for depth of ,tenon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj4--;,haunched ,tenon used at end of ,door ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4--;,haunched ,tenon used when ,stile is ,grooved for ,panel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4--;,application of ,haunched ,tenon ,joint to ,door ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4--,occasional ,stump ,tenon4 ,this type of joint is also used to connect the rail to the leg of an ordinary kitchen table 7see ,fig4 #afg74 ,fig4 #acc is a variation of the stump tenon1 occasionally used where the work in hand demands a thin tenon and a stout stump to take heavy strains4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4--;,joint for ,inside ,framing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4--;,haunched ,barefaced ,tenon4 ,a joint used for inside framing is seen at ,fig4 #acd4 ,the rails may be used as shown1 but in the case of a door frame 7as ,fig4 #acb7 they would have the inside edges grooved to receive the panels2 the tenons would therefore be slightly narrower than shown1 owing to the groove at each edge4 ,a ,,haunched ,,barefaced ,,tenon1 used in similar positions to ,fig4 #aca1 is shown at ,fig4 #ace4 ,the door or frame in this case would be made of matchboarding nailed on the back as shown in the plan at ,fig4 #abg4 ,,wedges4--,fig4 #acf shows the method of cutting wedges which are to be used to wedge the tenons2 this avoids waste of material4 ,some workers cut the wedges from the pieces left out of the haunching of the lock rail1 or the bottom rail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acf4--;,cutting ,wedges from ,waste of ,haunching4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acg4--,stile and ,cross ,rail with ,horn4 ,a ,,stile ,,and ,,cross ,,rail1 framed together1 are shown at ,fig4 #acg4 ,the portion above the rail is called the horn1 and it is usual to leave sufficient length of stile to project above and below the cross rails1 so that there will be no tendency for the stile to burst out at the end whilst the cramping and wedging of the frame is in progress4 ,on completing the framing the horn is cut away4 ,in ,fig4 #ach we have a type of joint frequently used for garden gates4 ,the illustration shows the method of tenoning the three pieces to the top rail1 barefaced tenons being employed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4--;,joint used for ,garden ,gates4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4--,sprocket ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4--;,boring ,tool4 ,,sprocket ,,wheel4--,at ,fig4 #aci are shown the guide bar and chain of a chain-mortising machine1 two enlarged links of the chain being indicated at ,a4 ,the chain is similar in construction to the driving chain of a bicycle1 with the exception that it is provided with teeth which cut away the timber as the chain revolves4 ,when using a chain mortiser the portion of the machine carrying the chain is fed downwards into the timber1 thus cutting a clean and true mortise4 ,if1 however1 a stump mortise is required it is necessary to pare away a certain amount of timber by hand1 because the machine obviously leaves a semicircular bottom to the mortise4 ,to overcome this difficulty the latest types of mortising machines have a square hole-boring attachment fixed alongside the chain4 ,this tool1 the working portion of which is illustrated in ,fig4 #adj1 consists of a square hollow chisel 7,e71 which is sharpened from the inside1 and a revolving twist bit 7,d7 fitted with spurs or nickers1 but without a point 7one spur can be seen at the bottom of the illustration74 ,this bit revolves inside the shell like a chisel1 and bores away the superfluous timber1 whilst the pressure exerted on the chisel causes the corners to be cut away dead square4 ,a mortise #c_/h in4 square by #f ins4 in depth may thus be cut4 ,the portion marked ,a is the shank of the chisel 7,fig4 #adj71 where it is fixed into the body of the machine1 and the hole at ,e allows the boring bit to free itself4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4--,method of ,fitting an ,interior ,table ,leg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb4--;,haunched ,tenon for ,skylight or ,garden ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig #adc4--,long and ,short ,shouldered ,tenon4 ,fig4 #ada indicates the method of fixing an interior leg to a table having a circular or straight top rail4 ,the inlaid leg in this case is stump-tenoned into the top rail1 and the inlaid portion of the leg is allowed to run through the rail1 thus giving continuity of design4 ,fig4 #adb shows the application of the haunched tenon 7,fig4 #ace7 to the making of a skylight or garden frame4 ,in this and similar cases the side rails are rebated as shown in the section1 and the bottom rail is thinner than the side rails to allow the glass to finish level upon it4 ,,long ,,and ,,short ,,shouldered ,,joint4--,fig4 #adc shows a haunched mortise and tenon joint having a long and short shoulder4 ,this is a fairly common joint in framed partitions for offices1 framing for greenhouses1 tool sheds1 etc41 and is a frequent source of annoyance to the amateur4 ,it is necessary to use this joint when both the stiles and uprights are rebated1 and it calls for accurate marking out and great care in the making4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4--;,joint for ,fencing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4--;,example of ,faulty ,tenon4 ,fig4 #add shows the upright and rails of common garden or field fencing4 ,the tenons are bevelled to fit and wedge each other in the mortise4 ,the illustration gives both cross rails as shouldered1 but in many cases shoulders are omitted when the rails are not thick enough to carry them4 ,fig4 #ade indicates faulty methods of working a tenon4 ,at ,a the saw has been allowed to run too far when cutting the shoulder1 thus greatly weakening the tenon4 ,at ,b faulty sawing has again occurred1 and to remedy this defect the worker has resorted to paring the shoulder with a chisel4 ,had the chisel been used vertically an undercut shoulder 7as at ,b7 would not have occurred4 ,the trouble now is that the slightest amount of shrinkage in the width of the stile will show an open joint4 ,the result will be the same if it is necessary to remove a shaving or two when planing or levelling up the face of the frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf4--,self-wedging ,japanese ,tenon ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adg4--,tenoned and ,scribed ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adh4--,mitred and ,moulded ,tenon ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4--,twin ,tenons4 ,a ,,japanese ,,tenoned ,,joint1 little known and rarely used in this country1 is shown at ,fig4 #adf4 ,for clearness the two parts are here shown separate4 ,the joint is self-wedging and will be of interest to ,handicraft ,instructors4 ,a ,,tenoned ,,and ,,scribed ,,joint is seen at ,fig4 #adg4 ,the cross rail is cut at the shoulder1 so as to fit the moulding which is worked on the stile4 ,this is a good joint in everyday use4 ,,mitred ,,and ,,moulded ,,joint4--,fig4 #adh shows a type of joint largely used in light cabinet work4 ,the method of mitreing the moulding and tenoning the stile to rail is indicated4 ,,twin ,,tenons 7,fig4 #adi74--,the method of tenoning the bearers which carry the drawers1 or the midfeather between two drawers1 in a dressing table or similar carcase is here shown4 ,on completion1 the tenons on the midfeather are wedged diagonally4 ,illustration3 ,fig #aej4--,method of ,pinning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4--;,joining ,top ,rails to ,upright ,post4 ,,pinning4--,fig4 #aej shows the tenoning of the inside end of a wardrobe to the top of the carcase4 ,this is also called pinning4 ,the tenons should be wedged diagonally4 ,the tenons and the distance between the tenons are more satisfactory if made equidistant1 because if slight shrinkage occurs this is partially equalised4 ,the width between the tenons should in no case exceed #c ins4 ,,top ,,rails4--,at ,fig4 #aea is shown the method of joining the top rails to the post of a tool shed or similar outhouse4 ,the two rails1 which are at right angles to each other1 are half-lapped and mortised2 the tenon on the post runs entirely through them4 ,a ,,tusk ,,tenon ,,joint1 with wedge1 as used to secure the binder to the girder when making floors1 is indicated at ,fig4 #aec4 ,the tenon here is narrow and engages the mortise1 which is situated in the compressional fibres immediately adjoining the neutral layer4 ,fig4 #aeb shows a tusk tenon furnished with a drawbore pin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4--,tusk ,tenon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec4--,wedged ,tusk ,tenon4 ,fig4 #aed is a variation of ,fig4 #aeb4 ,fig4 #aee shows tusk and wedged tenons as used when making a portable book or medicine cabinet4 ,the shelf is housed into the end1 and the tenons run through the end and are secured by wedges4 ,this allows the article to be quickly and easily taken to pieces for removal or re-polishing4 ,the dotted line in ,fig4 #aee indicates that the shelf may be shaped if desired4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aed4--;,another ,type of ,tusk ,tenon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aee4--,tusk ,tenon and ,wedge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aef4--,wheelwright's ,self-wedging ,tenon ,joint4 ,in ,fig4 #aef a self-wedging mortise and tenon joint used by wheelwrights is shown4 ,the dotted line 7left-hand diagram7 will indicate the amount of taper given to the mortise4 ,,dovetailed ,,and ,,wedged ,,tenon 7,fig4 #aeg74--,when two pieces such as the cross rail and leg of a carpenter's bench are required to be held together by a mortise and tenon1 and to be readily taken apart1 the tenon is dovetailed on one side and the mortise is made of sufficient width to permit the widest part of the dovetailed tenon to pass into it4 ,when the tenon is in its position a hardwood wedge is driven in above the tenon1 as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeg4--;,dovetailed and ,wedged ,tenon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeh4--,method of ,fox-wedging4 ,,fox ,,wedged ,,tenon 7,fig4 #aeh74--,this is the method of securing a stub tenon by small wedges4 ,the mortise is slightly dovetailed and two saw cuts are made in the tenon about #c_/af in4 from each side4 ,into each saw kerf a wedge is inserted and the joint glued up4 ,the cramping operation forces the wedges into the saw cuts1 thus causing the end of the tenon to spread and tightly grip the mortise4 ,,mortise ,,and ,,tenon ,,with ,,mitred ,,face 7,fig4 #aei74--,this is a useful method of jointing framing which has square edges as shown2 and it is equally useful even if the face edges have moulds worked upon them4 ,if the joint has square edges a rebate may be formed to accommodate a panel by fixing a bolection moulding around the frame4 ,a section of the bolection mould planted on the frame is shown in the lower figure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aei4--,tenon ,joint with ,mitred ,face4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afj4--,rafter ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afa4--,roof ,joints4 ,,roof ,,joints4--,fig4 #afj shows the method of tenoning the principal rafter to the king post1 whilst ,fig4 #afa illustrates the tenoning of the struts to the king post1 and the king post to the tie beam4 ,both these examples are used in roof work4 7,see also ,fig4 #ga47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afb4--;,drawbore ,pinning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afc41 ,fig4 #afd4 ,operation of ,pegs in ,drawbore ,pinning4 ,,drawbore ,,pinning4--,at ,fig4 #afb is seen the method of securing a tenon by drawbore pinning1 employed when it is not convenient to obtain the necessary pressure by using a cramp4 ,the joint is made in the usual manner1 and a #c_/h-;in4 twist bit is used to bore a hole through piece ,a4 ,the tenon is driven home and the hole is marked on the side of the tenon 7,b72 the tenon is then withdrawn and the hole bored about #a_/h in4 nearer to the shoulder than as marked on the separate diagram at ,c4 ,when the tenon is finally inserted the holes will not register correctly1 and if a hardwood pin be driven into the joint it will draw the shoulders of the tenon to a close joint and effectually secure the parts4 ,,sash ,,bars4--,fig4 #afe shows how to tenon a moulded sash bar to the rebated cross rail4 ,in this illustration both shoulders of the moulded bar are shown square1 but in the best class work these shoulders may be slightly housed into the cross rail to prevent side play4 ,this type of joint is used for horticultural buildings1 etc4 ,if the lower rail be moulded with the same members as the sash bar1 the end of the sash bar will have to be scribed on to it to make a fit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4--,tenoning ,moulded ,sash ,bar4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aff4--,tenon with ,tongued and ,grooved ,shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afg4--;,detail of ,table ,framing4 ,,tenon ,,with ,,tongued ,,and ,,grooved ,,shoulders 7,fig4 #aff74--,the object of the tongues and grooves here is to prevent the face of the work casting1 or becoming warped1 and thus spoiling the appearance of the surface of the work4 ,if framing is to be veneered on the face side this is an exceptionally good method4 ,,table ,,framing4--,fig4 #afg indicates the framing of a rail to a dining-table leg4 ,in cases similar to this the tenons run into the leg and almost touch each other4 ,they are therefore mitred on the end as shown in the inset4 ,chair frames often call for similar treatment4 ,,twin ,,tenons with haunch1 as used when the timber is of great thickness1 are shown in ,fig4 #afh4 ,,an ,,open ,,slot ,,mortise at the end of a right-angled frame is seen in ,fig4 #afi4 ,fig4 #agj shows an open slot mortise and tenon joint at the end of a frame of #fj4 ,both these joints are occasionally called end bridle joints4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4--,twin ,tenons for ,thick ,timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afi4--,the ,open-slot ,mortise ,joint4 ,,hammer ,,head ,,tenons4--,at ,fig4 #aga is shown the method of jointing framing having semicircular or segmental heads4 ,the left-hand diagram indicates the method of wedging the joint so as to draw up the shoulders2 the right-hand view shows the tongueing of the shoulders1 which is necessary if thick timber has to be wrought4 ,the sketch depicts the stile when taken apart from the shaped head of the frame4 ,,clamping4--,fig4 #agb shows the method of tenoning drawing boards1 desk tops and secretaire falls4 ,this is commonly called clamping4 ,the method is used to prevent wide surfaces from winding4 ,a variation of the joint is shown at the left-hand side1 the corners in this example not being mitred4 ,fig4 #agc shows the tenoning of a wide to a narrow rail when the joint is at an angle4 ,,inserted ,,tenons 7,fig4 #agd74--,where two pieces of timber run together at an acute angle it becomes necessary to use inserted tenons4 ,both pieces of the timber are mortised and the inserted tenons are secured into the widest piece4 ,on the left is shown the inserted tenon1 secured by the method known as fox-wedging2 on the right the inserted tenon has been let into the wide rail from the edge4 ,the narrow rail is secured by wedging the tenons from the outside edge in the ordinary manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agj4--,open-,slot ,mortise at #fj degrees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4--;,hammer-,head ,tenon ,joint4 ,,dreadnought ,,file4--,at ,fig4 #age is a sketch of a portion of a dreadnought file4 ,this has superseded the old-fashioned home-made float used to clean out the sides of a mortise4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4--;,clamping4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4--,tenoning ,narrow ,rail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agd4--;,inserted ,tenons4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #age4--;,dreadnought ,file4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agf4--;,external and ,internal ,joints4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agg4--,setting out ,stiles and ,rails for ,tenoning4 ,,general ,,rule4--,in practically all cases where a single tenon is used the thickness of the tenon should be one-third the thickness of the timber4 ,this leaves the timber at each side of the mortise the same strength as the tenon4 ,mortise and tenon joints for inside work may be united with glue4 ,if1 however1 the work has to stand the weather a better method is to unite the joint with white lead1 which is run down to the required consistency with good outside varnish4 ,,setting ,,out ,,the ,,joint4--,the principal use of the mortise and tenon joint is in the construction of various types of framing1 such as door and window frames4 ,in one or other of its many and varied forms it may be classed as the most important joint in the general woodworking trade4 ,the joint may be used as an internal one1 as shown at the lower rail1 ,fig4 #agf1 or as an external joint1 as the upper rail of the same illustration4 ,whatever type of framing has to be made1 it is necessary that the face side of the wood be planed up straight and out of winding1 and the face mark 7as shown in ,fig4 #agf7 pencilled upon it4 ,the best edge of the timber should next be planed up true in length1 and square to the face side1 and the edge mark 7,x7 clearly placed upon it4 ,the marking gauge is now set to the desired width1 and gauge lines are marked on the wood1 after which the waste wood is planed off until the timber is the required width4 ,the thickness is gauged and treated in a similar manner1 except in such cases where the finished work is to be of a rough and ready character4 ,,the ,,two ,,stiles 7or uprights7 have their faces turned to touch each other1 as shown at ,fig4 #agg1 and their length may be anything from #a in4 to #c ins4 longer than the required finished size4 ,this waste wood at each end of the stiles 7see arrow ,,ho7 is of importance to the work1 as it prevents to a great extent the bursting of the mortise whilst cutting the hole or when knocking together the work4 ,the small projection is called the horn1 and it is cut off after the frame has been put together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agh4--,setting ,out the ,stiles with ,marking ,knife4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agi4--;,how to ,saw the ,tenons--,first ,operation4 ,,the ,,two ,,cross ,,rails 7,fig4 #agg71 have their faces placed together as shown in the sketch4 ,these rails may with advantage be left #a_/b in4 longer than the finished size1 and the portion of the tenon 7which will protrude through the stile #a_/d in4 at each end7 may be cut off after the work is put together4 7,see ,fig4 #ib47 ,set out the stiles with a marking knife or penknife and a try square1 as shown at ,fig4 #agh4 ,in this sketch only one stile is shown for clearness of representation1 but two or more stiles 7as at ,fig4 #agg7 may be marked out at the same time1 provided a #ab-;in4 try square be used2 in fact1 marking out the stiles in pairs is to be recommended1 as all cross lines will be exact owing to their being marked at the same operation4 ,the cut made by the marking knife should be lightly carried all round the work as the mortising is cut from each edge of the stile1 the cutting of the mortising being finished in the centre4 ,the lettering on ,fig4 #agg is as follows3--,,ho1 horn2 ,m1 position of mortise2 ,h1 position of haunching2 ,a1 inside line1 or sight size1 as it is occasionally called4 ,set out the cross rails as at ,fig4 #agg1 lower sketch4 ,the lettering in this figure is as follows3--,t1 tenons2 the small piece of the tenon lettered ,j is called the haunch1 and the shaded portion ,h is cut away to allow the haunch ,j to fit the haunching of the stile4 ,,the ,,tenons 7as already stated7 are generally one-third the thickness of the timber1 thus leaving the same amount of substance at each side of the tenon as the tenon itself is composed of4 ,the mortise gauge is set to the required distance and used as in the case of the marking gauge 7,fig4 #hb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahj4--,second ,operation in ,sawing ,tenons4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aha4--;,cutting ,channel at ,shoulder of ,tenon before ,sawing4 ,to saw the tenons1 place the rail in the vice as at ,fig4 #agi and1 with a panel1 tenon1 or hand saw1 according to the size of the work1 cut down the outside of the tenon line as shown4 ,reverse your position and cut as shown at ,fig4 #ahj1 then place the rail in a vertical position1 and you will find little or no difficulty in sawing down square with the shoulder line4 ,repeat the above methods of sawing until all the tenons are sawn4 ,next saw out the pieces at the side of the tenon by the following procedure4 ,place the rail against the bench stop1 or in the vice1 and cut a small channel in which to run your tenon saw as shown at ,fig4 #aha4 ,if you have scored the line deeply with your knife when you were marking out the work1 you will have little difficulty in removing a small portion with the chisel4 ,the amount removed in the illustration is1 of course1 exaggerated4 ,in the small channel thus made place the tenon saw and1 guiding the saw blade with the finger so as to keep it upright or square 7,fig4 #ahb71 saw away the waste material4 ,remove the waste material at the sides of the tenons in a similar way1 and then saw out the portion marked ,h1 ,fig4 #agg1 lower sketch4 ,,the ,,mortising of the stiles may next be taken in hand by putting the stiles edgeways in the vice and boring away the bulk of the waste wood from the mortise with a suitable-sized twist bit and brace4 ,this method will save a great amount of noise1 as to a great extent it does away with the use of the mallet4 ,take the mallet and chisel and chop down about #c_/h in4 as shown at ,fig4 #ahc2 then turn the chisel to the position shown at ,fig4 #ahd and remove the small piece as shown4 ,continue these two operations until you are about half-way through the wood and then start in a similar manner at the line a1 ,fig4 #ahc1 after which turn the other edge of the timber uppermost and repeat the methods shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahb4--,sawing away ,waste ,material4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahc4--,using the ,chisel and ,mallet for ,mortising4 ,fig4 #ahe shows the sketch of a mortise which has its side removed so as to show the method of successive cuts with a chisel when removing the core from a mortise2 this1 in conjunction with the other sketches1 clearly shows the methods of working4 ,in many woodwork examinations the examiners insist that the mortise shall be removed by successive cuts with the chisel1 but we certainly advise the removal of much of the waste wood with a boring bit1 provided the worker can keep straight and well within the limitations of his gauge lines4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahd4--,removing ,waste of ,mortise with ,chisel4 ,,removing ,,haunching4--,after removing the mortise hole1 the small portion which is called the haunching will require to be removed with a chisel4 ,this calls for no special remark1 as it is clearly shown in ,figs4 #ahg and #ahh4 ,fig4 #ahf shows an everyday type of mortise and tenon joint separated2 it is used in cases where a straight joint is required on the upper or lower edge of the work1 whereas the upper rail of ,fig4 #agf shows the full haunch on the top edge4 ,in cases such as ,figs #ahg and #ahh1 where the edges of the frames are grooved to receive panels1 etc41 the width of the tenon is reduced by the width of the groove4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahe4--,mortise with ,side ,removed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahf4--,the ,joint ,separated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4--,removal of ,haunching4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahh4--;,haunching with ,groove above4 ,this must be remembered by the worker when marking out his stiles with the marking knife4 ,fig4 #ahg 7right-hand sketch7 shows the haunch1 tenon1 and groove ,g at the bottom4 ,fig4 #ahh 7left-hand illustration7 shows ,g 7groove7 at top1 and ,,hh 7the haunch7 at the bottom4 ,tenons may be glued together and wedged as shown at ,fig4 #agf if for inside work2 but if for outside work they are generally smeared with thick paint and wedged up4 ,for light-class cabinet work it is usual to cut the mortise about seven-eighths of the distance through the stile and make the tenon to match it2 the edge of the finished work does not then show any indication of the joint1 and it leaves a nice clean surface at the edge of the work for polishing or varnishing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahi4--;,interlocking ,joint for ,seat ,rails of ,chair to ,leg4 ,,interlocking ,,chair ,,joint4--,a joint designed with a view to strengthening the construction of chairs at the point where they are weakest is shown in ,fig4 #ahi4 ,the joint is an interlocking one so arranged that1 once the chair is glued up1 no motion of the side rail can be possible4 ,the groove in the side rail tenon is cut in such a manner that1 on the insertion of the back rail tenon1 the joint actually draws up and1 having done so1 is locked in position4 ,the exact location of this groove is obtained in a similar manner to that used in marking out tenons for drawbore pinning1 i4e41 the tenon is inserted in its mortise and the position of the back rail mortise transferred to it1 after which the lines are set back by #a_/fd in4 7approximately7 to cause the joint to draw4 ,from the illustration the construction of the joint should be clear4 ,the method is particularly adapted to a section of rectangular form where one side is longer than the other1 such as the back leg of a chair1 as this shape allows for the accommodation of the extra length of tenon required4 ,,the ,,dowelling ,,joint ,dowelling is the term generally given to the method of jointing timber and other materials by wooden or metal pegs1 which are called dowels4 ,for cabinet-making and similar work straight-grained beechwood dowels are mostly used2 these may be bought by the gross1 in lengths of about #cf ins41 and of any desired diameter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aij4--,steel ,dowel ,plate4 ,,making ,,dowels4--,many1 however1 prefer to make what they require for the work in hand1 and the following is the method that is generally employed4 ,pieces of straight-grained wood are wrought to a square section1 after which the corners are planed away to form an octagonal section4 ,the sharp corners are now planed away1 and the roughly formed dowel is driven through a steel dowel plate1 ,fig4 #aij1 by the aid of a heavy hammer1 thus giving the necessary roundness and finish to the dowels4 ,when hammering dowels through a plate the hammer should on no account be allowed to come in contact with the face of the dowel plate1 or the cutting edge of the hole will be spoilt4 ,simply drive the dowel to within #a_/h in4 of the plate and knock it out with the next dowel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aia4--;,cradle for ,planing ,dowels4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aib4--;,dowel with ,groove4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aic4--,sawing ,groove in ,dowel4 ,to plane off the corners a cradle 7,fig4 #aia7 is made and kept for the purpose4 ,the advantage of this cradle is obvious1 preventing as it does any tendency of the partly-formed dowel to slip or wobble4 ,a jig1 or cradle1 is easily made by bevelling the edges of two separate pieces of wood and then glueing and screwing them together as at ,fig4 #aia4 ,a small block of wood is inserted to act as a stop whilst the planing operation is in progress4 ,it is usual to bevel both edges of the timber from which the cradle is formed1 thus accommodating all sizes of dowels from #a_/d in4 to #e_/h in4 in diameter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aid4--,pricking the ,centres ready for ,boring4 ,also showing how ,brace is used in conjunction with ,try ,square4 ,fig4 #aib shows a completed dowel with a small groove running along its entire length4 ,the object of this groove is to allow the air and superfluous glue to escape and thus avoid splitting the work on hand2 the groove also secretes a certain amount of glue1 which increases its hold on the timber4 ,fig4 #aih illustrates the method of marking out and gauging two boards for dowelling4 ,the edges of the boards are first shot to a true joint2 then the face sides are placed together and the lines for the dowels are marked across the edges with a fine pencil and the aid of a try square4 ,the boards are then gauged from the face side1 thus giving the points indicated in the sketch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aie4--;,countersink4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aif4--;,dowel ,rounder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aig4--,twist ,bit4 ,to start the twist bit 7,fig4 #aig7 it is a good plan to prick the board at the point of intersection of the marked lines with a sharp1 circular-pointed marking awl4 ,this obviates any tendency of the boring bit to run out of truth and thus cause unevenness on the face side of the jointed board4 7,see ,fig4 #aid47 ,a safe rule for the spacing of dowels when jointing sideboard tops1 dressing table and wardrobe ends1 etc41 is to place the dowels #i ins4 to #aj ins4 apart1 and place two dowels at each end as shown at ,fig4 #aih4 ,the length of the dowels should be about #g_/h in4 to #a-a_/d in4 long4 ,fig4 #aii shows the two boards prepared ready for glueing4 ,the back one is bored to receive the dowels1 and the front one shows the dowels glued in position4 ,it is customary to warm the edges of the boards before spreading the glue1 and cramps are required to squeeze the joint tight4 ,these should be left on the jointed board from one to four hours according to the state of the weather4 ,in cases where thick timber 7say #b-;in4 or #b-a_/b-;in4 boards7 is to be jointed1 two rows of dowels may be used1 the position of the dowels being as ,fig4 #bjj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aih4--,marking and ,gauging ,boards for ,dowelling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aii4--;,dowelled ,joint ready for ,glueing4 ,fig4 #bja shows the plan of a #c-;in4 cornice pole made to fit a bay window2 the straight portions of the pole are generally turned in the lathe1 the corner portions being afterwards jointed and worked up to the required shape4 ,to avoid any difficulty in the setting out of the dowels1 a disc of cardboard or sheet metal is made to the same diameter as that of the cornice pole2 this disc is called a template4 ,the positions of the dowels are set out geometrically1 and the centres are pricked through with a fine-pointed marking awl 7see sketch of template1 a1 ,fig4 #bja74 ,the template is put on the ends of the straight pole1 and the dowel centres are pricked into the wood4 ,the process is repeated on the ends of the corner block 7b1 ,fig4 #bja71 and if the holes be now bored at the centres indicated a true fit will be obtained4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjj4--,method of ,dowelling ,thick ,timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bja4--,method of ,dowelling ,cornice ,pole by ,means of ,template4 ,fig4 #bja c shows two portions of the circular pole jointed up to a corner block1 and the dotted lines ,p indicate the direct line of pressure and shows the position for the cramp4 ,when the glue is thoroughly set the corner block is sawn and spokeshaved to the desired shape as shown by the dotted line4 ,this method is illustrated to show that1 by the use of a suitable template1 dowels may be exactly set out even when there is no straight or square face from which to use a marking gauge1 and the method may1 of course1 be applied to many other examples of dowelling at the discretion of the workman4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjb4--;,dowelling a ,mitred ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjc4--,method of ,frame ,dowelling4 7,long and ,short ,shoulders47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjd4--,table ,leaf with ,dowels4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bje4--;,block for ,twist ,bit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjf4--;,dowelling for ,moulded ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjg4--;,cap4 ,fig4 #bjb shows one corner of a mitred and dowelled frame4 ,it needs little or no explanation beyond the fact that the dowels should be at right angles to the line of joint1 and consequently the dowel at the outside edge of the frame will have to be much shorter than the others4 ,this gives a strong and serviceable joint1 suitable for many purposes4 ,,frame ,,dowelling4--,fig4 #bjc shows one corner of a frame with long and short shoulders1 such as occurs when the upright is rebated through its entire length4 ,the holes in both pieces are bored for the dowels before they are rebated4 ,this avoids any difficulty in endeavouring to bore with only one side of the twist bit in the wood4 ,a similar type of joint is used on nearly all kinds of glass and door frames in cabinet work4 ,fig4 #bjd is a leaf for the screw type of table4 ,circular dowels are shown at one end1 and rectangular wooden pegs at the other2 both methods are equally good1 and1 of course1 the dowels are only glued into one leaf4 ,the object of these dowels is to guide the table leaf into its proper position when the leaf engages the table proper1 and to make the flat surface of the table top and leaf register correctly and thus ensure a level surface4 ,fig4 #bje is a wooden block made in two portions and held together by screws2 it is used to fasten around a twist bit1 the object being to ensure that all the dowel holes are of uniform depth4 ,it may be adjusted as desired and firmly screwed round the twist bit2 if the hole is made #a_/d in4 in diameter it will clip round a #a_/d-;in4 or #c_/h-;in4 bit and will answer a dual purpose4 ,it is a preventative for bad dowelling4 ,fig4 #bjf is an example of dowelling framing when the moulding on the edge has to be mitred4 ,it is necessary to cut the shoulders away so as to allow the members of the moulding to intersect4 ,the section of the mould is not shown in the sketch for clearness of representation4 ,the portion marked ,h is called the horn1 and it is not cut off until after the frame is glued up2 its object is to prevent the rail splitting or bursting when knocking up the frame or during the cramping process4 ,fig4 #bjg shows the method of dowelling a moulded cap to the top of a wooden bedstead post or similar pillar where it is desired to avoid any unsightliness4 ,fig4 #bjh is a dining-table leg and portion of the framing1 showing the method of dowelling the frame to the leg4 ,chairs1 couch frames1 etc41 are made in a similar manner4 ,fig4 #bji shows the top portion of a table leg and a home-made dowel gauge4 ,the gauge is made of any hardwood1 and steel wire pins are driven through at the required positions and sharpened similar to the spur of a marking gauge4 ,the legs are sawn and planed up true and square1 and the advantage of the gauge is that all legs are marked exactly alike and are therefore interchangeable until glued up4 ,a gauge of this type is easily and quickly made and may be kept for its specific purpose or altered for other work4 ,fig4 #baj indicates the ,queen ,anne type of leg1 a sketch of same broken below the knee also being given4 ,here we have another type of irregular setting out1 which is accomplished in the following manner4 ,saw and plane the broken portion of the leg true as shown2 take the timber which is to be jointed and treat it in a similar manner2 now place four ordinary pins on the lower portion4 ,carefully place the top portion to the required position and smartly give it one tap with the hammer2 this will cause the pin-heads to leave indentations1 and if these be taken as centres for boring1 accurate work will result4 ,the new portion of the leg is afterwards sawn and wrought to the desired shape4 ,this is an example of work where it is next to impossible to use a gauge1 and as only one joint is required it is not worth the time taken to make a template4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjh4--;,dowelling a ,dining-,table ,leg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bji4--;,dowel ,gauge for ,legs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baj4--;,dowelling a ,cabriole ,leg4 ,the tools used in dowelling are3 ,brace1 countersink1 dowel-rounder1 twist bit1 try-square1 marking-awl1 and the usual bench tools4 ,the first four are illustrated at ,figs4 #aid1 #aie1 #aif and #aig respectively4 ,the method of working is3 ,plane up1 mark out1 bore holes1 countersink1 glue dowels and complete joints4 ,,the ,,scarf ,,joint ,the method known as scarfing is used for the joining of timber in the direction of its length1 enabling the workman to produce a joint with a smooth or flush appearance on all its faces4 ,one of the simplest forms of scarfed joint is known as the half lap1 in which a portion is cut out at the end of each beam or joist1 equal in depth to half the full depth of the beam1 and of equal length to the required scarf4 ,the two pieces before they are placed together form a joint as shown at ,fig4 #baa1 the projecting part 7,a7 fitting into the recessed portion marked ,b and the two pieces being secured in their respective positions by screws4 ,fig4 #bab shows a dovetailed scarf joint4 ,this is a variation of ,fig4 #baa1 the length of the dovetail lap being from #f ins4 to #h ins4 in length4 ,fig4 #bac is an illustration of a joint designed to resist a cross strain4 ,the face side is left flush1 whilst the underside is assisted by an iron plate4 ,the joint is secured with nuts1 bolts1 and washers4 ,this type of joint is frequently used for joining purlins in roof work2 the iron plate on the underside is in this case omitted4 ,fig4 #bad is designed to resist both tension and compression and is an excellent joint for all purposes4 ,the joint is brought together by using folding wedges as shown in the centre4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baa4--;,half-,lap ,scarf ,joint for ,light ,timber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bab4--;,dovetailed ,scarf ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bac4--,plated ,scarf ,joint ,used in ,roof ,work4 ,fig4 #bae is a variation of ,fig4 #bad1 and it will be noticed that tenons are provided on the face and underside to resist cross strain4 ,probably this is one of the best varieties of the scarfed joint4 ,unfortunately1 however1 its production is somewhat costly1 and this may be the reason that it is not more universally used4 ,folding wedges are used to secure the two pieces in position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bad4--,tenoned ,scarf ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bae4--;,double ,tenoned ,scarf ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baf4--,scarf ,joint with ,vee'd ends4 ,fig4 #baf is a scarfed joint with undercut vee'd ends which prevent the joint from lipping up or down or sideways4 ,it is a useful joint1 calling for careful setting out and accurate craftsmanship4 ,folding wedges are used in this case to draw up and secure the joint4 ,fig4 #bag is a fished joint1 and the following difference between a scarfed and fished joint should be noted4 ,a fished joint need not necessarily reduce the total length of the beams to be joined1 and fish plates of wood or iron 7or a combination of both7 are fastened at each side of the joint4 ,in a scarf joint all surfaces are flush4 ,in ,fig4 #bag the beams are butt-jointed and secured by wooden plates and iron bolts4 ,the upper plate is let into each beam1 and the lower plate is provided with two wooden keys to prevent the beams sliding 7or creeping7 upon the lower plate4 ,iron nuts1 bolts1 and washers are used to complete the joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bag4--;,fished ,joint4 ,in the case of the scarfed joint at ,fig4 #bah 7used for purlins7 the length of the scarf is usually made about four times that of the depth of tie beam4 ,it has two hardwood keys which force the pieces together and thus tighten the joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bah4--;,detail of ,scarfed ,joint in ,purlins4 ,the methods of scarfing and fish-jointing are many and varied1 and1 in selecting a joint1 the nature of the pieces to be joined and the direction and the amount of the load should be carefully taken into consideration4 ,the above joints come under the heading of carpentry1 and the ordinary tools such as the saw1 plane1 boring-bit and chisels are all that are requisite and necessary to produce a sound and serviceable joint4 ,scarfed joints are generally of large size1 and they are usually made by placing the work upon sawing trestles owing to the bench being too small to accommodate the large timbers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bai4--;,example of ,tabled ,joint with ,straps4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbj4--,lapped ,scarf ,joint with ,bolts for ,heavy ,timber4 ,fig4 #bai is a tabled scarf joint which admirably resists tension and compression4 ,it is very easy to make and fit1 and is not materially affected by shrinkage4 ,the rectangular wrought iron straps are knocked up over the joint after the two pieces engage4 ,the length of the joint should be approximately five times its thickness4 ,fig4 #bbj is an example of a lapped scarf joint which is secured with nuts and bolts4 ,it effectively resists compressional stress in vertical posts and it may1 if required1 be strengthened by the addition of wrought iron fish plates4 ,it is quite a serviceable joint for all general purposes1 such as shed or garage building where fairly heavy timbers are used4 ,,the ,,hinged ,,joint ,one of the most common forms of hinged joint in use to-day is that formed by using the butt hinge1 and many troubles experienced by the amateur1 such as hinge-bound1 stop-bound1 and screw-bound doors1 etc41 are due to a lack of knowledge of the principles of hingeing4 ,hinges call for careful gauging and accurate fitting1 otherwise trouble is certain to occur4 ,a ,,bound door or box lid is said to be hinge-bound when the recess which contains the hinge is cut too deep4 ,the frame and the body portion engage too tightly when closed1 the result being that the door has always a tendency to open a little4 ,this fault may be in many cases remedied by packing behind the hinge with one or two thicknesses of good stiff brown paper4 ,for packing purposes such as this paper will be found to be of much more value than thin strips of wood or knife-cut veneer1 the latter always having a great tendency to split when a screw or bradawl is inserted4 ,a stop-bound door is the name applied when the door is not finished to exactly the same thickness as originally intended4 ,this causes the door to bind on the stops at the back1 as shown at ,fig4 #bba4 ,the difficulty may be remedied by thinning the door a little at the back1 or slightly rounding away the portion which binds4 ,screw-bound is a common fault often overlooked by the amateur4 ,it is caused by using screws of which the heads are too large for the countersunk holes in the hinge1 and may be avoided by slightly sinking the holes in the brasswork with a countersink or rose-bit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bba4--,stop-bound ,door4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbb4--;,butt ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbc4--;,gauging4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbd4--,marking for ,recess4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbe4--,sawing for the ,recess4 ,,alignment4--,another fault that is fairly common is having the axes of the hinges out of alignment4 ,especially is this the case when three hinges are used to hang a wardrobe or other large door4 ,it is absolutely necessary in all cases that the exact centres of the pivot-pins of the hinges should be in a straight line4 ,particular attention to alignment is necessary when the body and the door frame are shaped on the face side4 ,a familiar example that every reader may inspect for himself is the curved side of a railway carriage body and railway carriage door1 where he will notice that a specially wide hinge has to be used at the bottom of the door to give the necessary alignment4 ,hinges fixed on work with their centres out of truth are often overlooked by the inexperienced worker1 and this is a frequent cause of creaking4 ,,gauging4--,fig4 #bbb is a sketch of a brass butt hinge1 open4 ,fig4 #bbc illustrates a similar hinge closed1 and shows the gauge set so that the point of the marker is exactly to the centre of the pivot-pin4 ,this distance we will call ,c4 ,now turn to ,fig4 #bbd4 ,the distance ,c has been gauged from the face side of the frame4 ,the gauge is then set to the thickness of the hinge at its thickest portion1 and to prevent hinge-bind see that the gauge is set on the fine side4 ,remember that the tapered point of the steel spur or marking awl will part the fibres of the timber a little more than the fine point1 and give you a wider gauge line than was anticipated when you set the gauge4 ,the inexperienced worker nearly always overlooks this4 ,the result is a hinge-bound door1 the cause of which is not discovered by the worker because he is so sure that he has set the gauge correctly4 ,the distance ,b1 ,fig4 #bbf1 shows the line gauged for the thickness of the hinge4 ,,position ,,of ,,hinges4--,another difficulty to the beginner is the position for his hinges1 and it may here be stated that the general rule is to carry a line across the face of the work from the inside of the cross rail and place the hinge at ,e1 as ,fig4 #bbd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbf4--,tool ,operation when ,paring ,out the ,hinge ,recess in the ,door4 ,,sawing ,,for ,,the ,,recess4--,after marking out for the hinge1 as shown at ,fig4 #bbd1 take a fine-toothed saw 7a dovetail saw is considered the best7 and saw down as shown at ,fig4 #bbe1 care being taken not to cut beyond the gauge lines4 ,in this sketch three intermediate saw kerfs are shown1 but if the hinge is of great length1 say #e or #f ins41 the removal of the waste wood will be greatly facilitated by the addition of more intermediate saw kerfs4 ,these cuts sever the cross fibres and allow the timber to be easily pared away in short lengths4 ,in ,fig4 #bbf we see the tool operation when paring out the hinge recess4 ,at the left of the drawing the recess is shown marked4 ,take a #c_/d in4 chisel and1 using it as a knife 7see ,a71 deepen the gauge lines4 ,then stab the chisel downwards1 as at ,b1 to deepen the end lines4 ,next1 take the chisel and pare away the back of the recess as at ,c4 ,the work may then be completed by paring neatly till the bottom of the recess is flat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbg41 ,fig4 #bbh4 ,the ,hingeing of a ,box ,lid4 ,,stopped ,,hinged ,,joints ,,for ,,box ,,work4--,fig4 #bbg is a section through a small box similar to a lady's work-box 7the back of the box in the illustration is enlarged in thickness to clearly show the position of the hinge74 ,in this case the knuckle of the hinge is let into the woodwork until it is flush with the back of the box1 and the gauge would have to be set to the total width of the hinge4 ,the back edges of the lid and the back edge of the lower portion of the box are planed away at an angle of #de degrees as indicated by the dotted lines4 ,fig4 #bbh shows the same box with the lid open1 and it will be observed that the chamfered edges come together and form a stop which prevents the lid falling backwards and breaking the box4 ,this method of letting-in the knuckle flush is a useful one for box work because the ordinary stock brass butt hinge can be used4 ,attention may1 however1 be called to the stopped butt-hinge1 which is specially made to answer the above purpose2 in its action a similar mechanical principle as the one applied to the box is used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbi4--,strap ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcj4--,reversible or ,double-folding ,screen ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bca4--,pivot ,hinge for ,screens4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcb4--,non-reversible ,screen ,hinge4 ,,types ,,of ,,hinges4--,fig4 #bbi is an elongated variety of the butt hinge1 known in the trade as strap hinge1 desk hinge1 or bagatelle hinge4 ,as its name indicates1 it is used on folding bagatelle tables1 small writing desks1 and other types of work that have but a narrow margin on which to fix the hinges4 ,the long1 narrow plates are sunk flush into the wood1 the knuckle or rounded portion projecting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcc4--;,back ,flap ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcd4--;,card ,table ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bce4--,pivot ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcf4--,rising ,butt ,hinge4 ,fig4 #bcj is an illustration of the reversible or double-folding screen hinge4 ,half the thickness of this hinge is let into each wing of the draught screen1 allowing the screen to be folded either way4 ,the hinge is costly1 but effective in use4 ,fig4 #bca is a type of pivot hinge which is used to fix at the top and bottom of a screen4 ,fig4 #bcb is the non-reversible screen hinge and1 as its name implies1 will only fold in one direction4 ,fig4 #bcc is a back flap hinge with a specially wide wing1 used for the fall-down leaf of small tables and similar articles4 ,fig4 #bcd is a card table hinge4 ,this is let into the edges of the table1 so that all is flush or level both above and below the surface4 ,,centre ,,or ,,pivot ,,hinges4--,fig4 #bce is a centre or pivot hinge1 used on the top and bottom of wardrobe doors1 more particularly the interior door of a three-winged wardrobe where the method of fixing is confined to the cornice and plinth4 ,the flange carrying the pins or pivot is let into the top and bottom of the door1 the remaining flange being let into the cornice and plinth respectively4 ,,rising ,,butt ,,hinges4--,fig4 #bcf is the rising butt hinge1 used on dining and drawing-room doors1 so that when the door is opened the door rises sufficiently to clear the thickness of the carpet4 ,this hinge has also an advantage over the ordinary butt hinge in that it is self-closing1 i4e41 the weight of the door plus the bevel on the hinge joint causes the door to close4 ,band and hook hinges and other ordinary varieties are too well known to require illustrating4 ,,acute ,,angle ,,hingeing4--,fig4 #bcg is a sectional plan of a corner cupboard showing a good method of hingeing the door4 ,the inset a shows an enlarged view of the corner carrying the hinge1 also the adaptor piece c1 which is fitted to the inside edge of the cupboard so that the hinged edges are at #ij degrees to the face4 ,this is a far better and stronger method than that shown at b1 which is often attempted with disastrous results4 ,the incorrect method b allows insufficient wood for fixing purposes1 and in nearly all cases the thin edge of the door breaks away during the making and fitting1 or soon after completion4 ,the adaptor piece may have a face mould worked upon it to give a pilaster-like appearance if fancy so dictates4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcg4--;,hingeing ,door of ,corner ,cupboard4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bch4--;,inside ,hingeing3 ,method of ,letting ,butt ,hinge into ,door ,frame and ,carcase4 ,,inside ,,hingeing4--,when a door is being hung inside the carcase 7that is1 not hinged over the ends7 it is permissible1 in the case of light work1 to let the whole thickness of the hinge into the door2 and when screwing the door to the carcase it is usual to fix the knuckle of the hinge flush with the face of the carcase1 thus allowing the door frame to stand back1 making a break of about #a_/h in4 with the face4 ,the marking gauge should be set to the full width of the hinge2 the mark1 gauged on the inside of the carcase end1 thus forms a line to guide the worker whilst fixing the door4 ,to successfully fix a door it generally requires two persons1 one to hold the door in position1 whilst the other bores the holes and fixes the screws4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bci4--,showing ,top and ,bottom of ,carcase ,cut ,back to allow ,door to ,close4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdj4--,outside ,hingeing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bda4--,section4 ,fig4 #bch shows the correct method of fitting butt hinges on high-class work4 ,one wing of the hinge is let into the door1 and the other wing is let into the carcase or door jamb1 thus distributing a proportion of the weight to the carcase end instead of allowing the whole of the weight to be carried by the screws as would be the case in a1 ,fig4 #bcg4 ,the method of sinking each portion of the hinge into the door and carcase respectively is costly2 hence it is not the general practice in cheap work4 ,in ,fig4 #bci the top and bottom of carcase 7,t and ,b7 are shown set back to allow the door to close4 ,,outside ,,hingeing4--,fig4 #bdj illustrates the portion of a door frame and carcase end when the door is hung on the face of the carcase4 ,the correct method of letting in the hinge is shown in the enlarged section 7,fig4 #bda71 but1 as previously mentioned1 the hinge may have its entire thickness let into the door frame where it is of a light character4 ,the door frame projects slightly over the carcase end1 and occasionally a bead mould is worked on the edge of the door so as to give a finish and partly hide the joint4 ,the bead would1 of course1 be the same size as the diameter of the knuckle of the hinge2 and the knuckle1 therefore1 will form a continuation of the bead and give a workmanshiplike finish4 ,,fall ,,fronts4--,fig4 #bdb is a sectional view of a fall front writing bureau fitted with centre or pivot hinges and arranged so that the edges form a stop when the desk front is turned to a horizontal position4 ,the position for the fitting of the brass plates carrying the pivot-pin is somewhat awkward2 but1 by first sinking the plates into the carcase ends1 and then slotting the edges of the fall1 it will be found that the fall front may be put in from its horizontal position1 and that sufficient room is left to enable the screwdriver to be manipulated without inconvenience4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdb4--;,fall ,front of ,writing ,bureau4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdc4--,revolving ,fly ,rail for ,table4 ,see ,pivoted ,fly or ,front ,rail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdd4--;,draught ,screen ,tape ,hinge4 ,,fly ,,rail4--,fig4 #bdc is a sketch of a small table with the top removed4 ,a revolving fly rail is shown pivoted upon a piece of #a_/d-;in4 wire4 ,the object of this fly rail is to form a support to the small hinged drop-leaf of the table4 ,this method is suitable for small occasional tables and similar articles4 ,,draught ,,screens4--,fig4 #bdd illustrates the end elevation and plan of a draught screen which is constructed of a light framework and covered with baize or ,american cloth4 ,the reversible double-folding hinge 7,fig4 #bcj7 would answer admirably for such a screen4 ,cases occur1 however1 where it is desired to hinge a screen to be used for an invalid's bedside1 and it is then important that all draught should be excluded through the jointed edges4 ,the double reversible hinge will not fulfil these conditions1 and the following method is therefore adopted4 ,in the plan1 ,fig4 #bdd1 ,a and ,b1 two laths of hardwood 7beech1 birch or mahogany answer splendidly7 are shown4 ,they are made the same length and the same width as the edges of the screen1 the corners being slightly rounded away4 ,a double-folding1 draught-proof hinge is then made as follows3 ,procure good fine webbing1 about #a-a_/d in4 wide1 and the necessary large-headed tacks4 ,lay the laths side by side as shown in ,fig4 #bdd1 and proceed to web them as shown4 ,commence with the web under the lath ,a2 bring it between the laths and over ,b2 now take it round the left-hand edge of ,b1 and round the back and between the laths and over ,a1 continuing this method of wrapping the laths until the lower end is reached1 and then fastening the webbing as indicated by the dotted lines which represent the tacks4 ,this self-contained hinge is then fixed to the edges of the screen by boring suitable holes through the laths and using countersunk screws4 ,this is a cheap and efficient method of overcoming the difficulty4 ,a similar method is used for the household clothes horse4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bde4--;,finger ,joint ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdf4--,the ,knuckle ,joint ,hinge4 ,,finger ,,joint ,,hinge4--,fig4 #bde is a finger joint--a movable interlocking joint used to support the leaf of a ,pembroke table4 ,the small portion is screwed to the table rail and the shaped bracket swings out to support the drop leaf4 ,the shaded portion of the bracket shows the timber chamfered away so that the fingers may be easily put behind the bracket to manipulate it4 ,note that the corners are slightly rounded off1 as indicated by the black portion of the sketch1 and that the mortises are cut about #a_/d in4 deeper than the thickness of the timber used4 ,this joint has now been almost superseded by a cheap stamped galvanised iron bracket of exactly the same pattern4 ,the joint1 however1 is still used for repair work and in cases where a stamped metal bracket has not sufficient overhang4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdg4--,open ,joint ,hingeing4 ,,knuckle ,,joint ,,hinge4--,fig4 #bdf is a similar type of joint to the above1 and is called the knuckle joint4 ,this arrangement of hingeing allows the table leg to swing in an angle of #ahj degrees and is much neater in its appearance4 ,it is often used to connect a movable table leg to the framing1 where it is necessary for the table leg and rail to swing outwards and support a drop leaf4 ,the pivot is formed by a piece of #a_/h-;in4 or #a_/d-;in4 round iron rod running through the centre of the joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdh4--;,clearing the ,architrave ,mould4 ,,open ,,joint ,,hingeing4--,the next three illustrations apply more particularly to the hanging of the ordinary household door4 ,fig4 #bdg is termed open joint hanging1 from the fact that when the door is open a certain amount of open space exists between the edge of the door and the doorpost4 ,this open space varies according to the position in which the butt hinge is fixed4 ,a section is shown at which the pin of the hinge is let in level with the face of the door4 ,this will allow the door to open as shown by the dotted line1 and it will not clear the architrave moulding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdi4--;,close ,joint ,hingeing4 ,fig4 #bdh indicates the position of the hinge fixed so as to allow the door to open and lay flat back to the architrave moulding4 ,in this instance the butts are made with wider wings1 and they are generally provided to take three screws 7see ,fig4 #bcc1 right-hand wing of hinge74 ,to determine the position of the centre pin of the hinge the following rule is observed4 ,the centre of the pivot pin of the hinge must be half the distance between the face of the door1 when closed1 and the outside of the architrave moulding4 ,,close ,,joint ,,hanging4--,the method known as close joint hanging ensures the joint at the hanging stile being in close proximity to the hanging rail2 this is shown at ,fig4 #bdi4 ,the first member of the architrave moulding is generally a bead of the same diameter as the knuckle of the hinge4 ,the butt hinge is let in as shown in the illustration1 and the door when opened forms a close-fitting joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bej4--,rule ,joint ,hinge1 with ,leaf ,open4 ,,the ,,rule ,,joint ,,hinge is used to connect the top and the drop leaf of a table in cases where continuity of design is desired1 so that the edge of the top and the leaf will show an ovolo moulding when the table is either open or closed4 ,to the inexperienced worker it presents several difficulties and1 if it is a first effort1 it is advisable to try out a sample joint on a couple of odd pieces of timber4 ,fig4 #bej illustrates the joint when the leaf is opened or in a horizontal position4 ,at ,fig4 #beb we have the joint when the leaf is let down to a vertical position4 ,it should be observed in the latter figure that the edge ,a of the drop leaf is in alignment with the axis of the hinge4 ,steel or brass back-flap hinges 7,fig4 #bcc7 are generally used and they are sunk into the table as suggested4 ,set out the work full size as at ,fig4 #bea1 and mark point #a1 which is to be the position of the joint4 ,draw #a1 #b1 at right angles to the table top4 ,mark point #c on the vertical line for the centre of the hinge1 and mark point #d approximately as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bea4--,setting ,out for ,rule ,joint ,hinge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beb4--,the ,rule ,joint with ,leaf ,down4 ,with compass point on #c and radius #c to #d1 describe an arc #d to #e4 ,this gives us the true joint line 7#a1 #d1 #e74 ,the distance #j to #c is usually determined by the hinge4 ,the knuckle of the back flap hinge is always let into the under side of the wood and the further it is inserted into the wood the more the joint will overlap at ,a 7,fig4 #beb7 which shows the joint when the flap or leaf is down4 ,,shutting ,,joints ,this chapter deals with the joint made by the upright rail of a door frame which carries the lock1 or handle1 generally called the slamming stile4 ,many and varied are the methods used to make a draught and air-tight joint at the meeting of the slamming stile and the carcase end1 and our sketches illustrate some of the simplest and also some of the best and most expensive methods4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bec4--,shutting ,stile of ,cupboard ,door4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bed4--,showing ,cupboard ,end ,thicknessed 7see ,b74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bee4--;,dust-proof ,cupboard ,door4 ,fig4 #bec is a part plan of the end of a simple cupboard of which the carcase end is all of one thickness 7i4e41 not lined up in thickness74 ,a small strip of wood 7,a7 is glued and screwed on the end to form a stop to the door and to prevent the access of dust to the interior of the cupboard4 ,fig4 #bed illustrates a similar method2 the stop 7,c7 is seen1 as in the previous illustration1 but it will be noticed also that the carcase end in this case is lined up 7see ,b7 to give a pilaster-like appearance to the end1 and the moulding is selected on account of its suitability to hide the joint of the lining piece4 ,fig4 #bee is of a more intricate type1 and is often used on jewellers' showcases4 ,the end at the right hand is slightly rebated to receive the frame1 and both the rail and the end are grooved with a plough plane4 ,a separate bead is made and glued into the groove of the door frame 7,d71 engaging the groove in the carcase end when the door is closed4 ,the shutting stile and the end are worked with a hook joint 7,e71 and if carefully made they are practically dust-tight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bef4--,meeting ,stiles with rebated ,astragal4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beg4--;,door ,rebated for ,astragal4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beh4--;,door with ,brass ,astragal4 ,fig4 #bef shows the meeting of two doors which open outwards1 a separate piece of timber being made to form a rebated astragal mould 7,f7 and glued to the right-hand door4 ,this method gives a neat and effective finish4 ,fig4 #beg is similar to the above1 with the exception that the rail of the door is rebated 7,g7 to receive the astragal moulding4 ,this method is preferred on the best class of work1 because it shows no unsightly joint at the inside of the door frame4 ,fig4 #beh illustrates the type of joint made by using a brass astragal mould 7,h7 as employed on high-class work1 frequently seen on ,french furniture of the ,louis periods4 ,in ,fig4 #bei is shown a piece of brass astragal moulding1 which may be procured from any cabinetmaker's ironmonger in suitable lengths4 ,it is fixed in position by slightly rebating the edge of the door and fastening with ordinary countersunk brass screws4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bei4--;,brass ,astragal4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfj4--;,curved ,cupboard ,doors with ,rebated ,meeting ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfa4--,rebated ,meeting ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfb4--,meeting ,joint with applied ,astragal4 ,fig4 #bfj is a rebated joint1 broken at the front by a bead moulding4 ,the illustration shows its application to a circular-fronted cupboard1 and it will be noticed that the hinged rails are received in a rebate which is worked on the carcase ends4 ,the rebated joint at the centre of the two doors is worked slightly on the bevel1 so as to allow for clearance when opening the door4 ,two of the commonest meeting joints of doors are seen in ,figs4 #bfa and #bfb4 ,in the former case the stiles are rebated 7as already shown in ,fig4 #bfj71 whilst at ,fig4 #bfb an astragal bead is glued to the right-hand stile4 ,in ,fig4 #bfa a bead is worked on the right-hand stile to mask the joint4 ,fig4 #bfc is the hook joint used on good-class joinery and cabinet work4 ,a pair of special wood planes are required to make the joint in a cheap and efficient manner4 ,the cost of a pair of #e_/h-;in4 hook joint planes is from #fs4 to #hs4 ,they are of similar size and general appearance to the ordinary ovolo moulding plane4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfc4--,the ,hook ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfd4--;,hook ,joint with loose ,tongues4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfe4--,rebated ,joint with ,tongue ,slip4 ,fig4 #bfd is a special type of hook joint as used on larger work4 ,the joint may be made by using the plough plane1 the rebate plane and a suitably-sized bead plane1 the loose tongues being inserted as shown and fastened by screws and glue4 ,fig4 #bfe is a rebated joint with loose tongue-slip and astragal mould1 suitable for frames over #a-a_/d in4 in thickness4 ,the loose tongue-slip is glued into the right-hand door frame4 ,fig4 #bff shows a shutting joint used to prevent permeation of dust to the interior of a drawer4 ,the drawer front is grooved and engages a suitably-formed slip which is screwed to the bearer as indicated in the illustration4 ,occasionally some difficulty is experienced when fitting the slip to a narrow drawer1 but this can always be overcome by putting in the screws from the top of the bearer instead of from underneath4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bff4--;,dust-proof ,drawer1 showing the ,front grooved to engage a ,slip which is screwed to the ,bearer ,rail4 ,shutting joints which are required to be light-tight1 such as those used in photographic work1 are generally formed by slightly grooving the frame and inserting a strip of black velvet4 ,the friction of the high pile of the velvet prevents the filtration of light through the joint4 ,when making air-tight showcases1 one of the best and simplest tests is to place a lighted candle in the case and close all the doors2 if the candle goes out within three minutes you have accomplished your object4 ,,the ,,dovetail ,,joint ,nothing definite is known as to the origin of dovetailing1 but a quaint and pleasing little story which is well worth repeating runs as follows3 ,a farmer had called in the local joyner to do sundry repairs at the homestead4 ,one day1 whilst enjoying a humble meal1 he sat watching some doves as they hopped about the yard4 ,struck by the movement of their wedge-shaped tails1 it occurred to him to joint his timber by the interlocking method2 hence we have dovetails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfg4--;,a ,single ,through ,dovetail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfh4--,through ,dovetails on ,carcase ,work 7,p1 ,pins2 ,t1 ,tails74 ,,through ,,dovetailing4--,one of the simplest forms of the dovetail joint is shown in ,fig4 #bfg1 where two pieces of timber are joined by the method known as through dovetailing4 ,this method is used in everyday practice for joining the corners of frames1 bracket trusses1 and a hundred and one other articles4 ,figs4 #bfh and #bfi show the method of through dovetailing as applied to the making of boxes1 plinths1 and general carcase work2 it is used in positions where no objection can be taken to the end grain showing on each side of the finished work4 ,in the case of plinths and furniture cornices the foundation frame is made of yellow pine or other cheap wood1 and the more expensive and rare timbers are glued and mitred around in various thicknesses and shapes1 thus saving the more costly material and strengthening the construction by the method known as laminating4 ,in many cases all that is necessary is to veneer the face sides1 thus covering and hiding any unsightliness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfi4--;,dovetails for ,boxes1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgj4--,lap-dovetailing for ,drawers4 ,,lap-,,dovetailing4--,fig4 #bgj is an example of lap-dovetailing1 such as is used where a drawer side joins with the drawer front4 ,it is not permissible to allow the end grain of the timber to show at the front of a drawer1 and this is why resort is had to the lap-dovetail4 ,as the most general use of the dovetail is for this and similar purposes1 we shall therefore deal fully with the methods of marking out and the making of this class of joint4 ,,angles4--,a most important point in the construction of a dovetail is to avoid having the angles of the pins and tails too acute4 ,an inclination of one in eight is considered correct2 no hard and fast rule need be obeyed1 but the variation should on no account be less than one in six4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bga4--;,how to obtain ,correct ,angles for ,dovetail ,template4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgb4--,squaring and use of ,template4 ,fig4 #bga shows a simple method to obtain the correct angle4 ,take a piece of timber and plane up the face edge 7,a1 ,b7 true and straight2 mark out a line 7,c1 ,d7 at right angles to the face edge and space off #h ins4 as shown2 now measure a distance of #a in4 7,d1 ,e71 and join ,e to point eight4 ,this will give the correct angle for the dovetails1 and it may then be transferred to the joiners' bevel4 ,many workers who are constantly on dovetail work make a zinc template to the exact angle and keep it specially for the purpose 7,fig4 #bgb74 ,,squaring4--,another important point to remember is that the drawer sides must be true and squared to an exact length and planed up to thickness2 otherwise the finished drawer will be in winding and out of truth4 ,to true and square the ends of drawer sides1 drawer backs and drawer front1 a most useful little machine is the mitre trimmer2 failing this1 excellent results can be obtained by using the shooting board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgc4--,method of ,marking with ,cutting ,gauge4 ,,gauging4--,after squaring up the timber accurate gauging of the ends is another important point4 ,the gauge used should be a cutting gauge1 so that the line is incised about #a_/cb in4 in depth1 thus effectually cutting the cross fibres of the timber4 ,fig4 #bgc shows the method of using the cutting gauge4 ,the stock of the gauge must be held well up to the end of the timber4 ,the gauge is a most difficult tool for the novice to use1 and his trouble is generally caused by holding it too flat4 ,tilt the gauge a little so that the thumbscrew shown in the illustration goes nearer to the floor2 the blade will then not bite so keenly1 and better results will be obtained4 ,the dotted lines indicate the positions which the dovetails will occupy when marked out4 ,the gauge is set a trifle less than the thickness of the drawer sides to allow for the thickness of the steel cutter1 and a gauge line is marked on the inside of the front and all round the drawer back4 ,the gauge is now readjusted so as to leave a #a_/d-;in4 lap on the front1 and a line marked on the ends of the front and all round the ends of the sides which will engage the drawer front4 ,a glance at ,figs4 #bgj and #bgc will make this clear4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgd4--,removing the ,waste ,wood4 ,the dovetail pins on drawer part and back are spaced out and marked on the end with the aid of the joiners' bevel1 the lines being then squared down to the gauge line by the method shown at ,fig4 #bgb--that is1 by using the try-square and marking awl4 ,the drawer front is now put into the bench vice1 and the pins are cut as indicated in ,fig4 #bgd4 ,the drawer back is treated in a similar manner1 but of course in this case it is not lap but through dovetailing1 and the saw kerf goes through the timber and down to the gauge line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bge4--;,cutting away the ,half ,dovetails4 ,we now come to the point where it is necessary to remove the superfluous material4 ,fig4 #bgd shows a method commonly adopted and known as sawing out the waste2 the saw is held at an angle and part of the inside portion of the dovetail is cut away as shown4 ,this is a good plan for the amateur1 because it shows him at the commencement of his chopping out which will be the pin and which the tail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgf4--,showing the ,vertical and ,horizontal ,chisel ,operations in ,lap-dovetailing4 ,a3 ,the ,preliminary ,roughing-out4 ,b3 ,vertical ,chiselling2 note that the first stab should be just outside the ,gauge ,line4 ,c3 ,marking the ,horizontal ,cut4 ,fig4 #bgf 7,a7 shows another method that answers well for soft woods such as pine1 ,american whitewood and satin walnut4 ,the drawer front is laid flat on the bench after it has been sawn1 and with a mallet and sharp chisel the corner of the dovetail is knocked off as shown4 ,this takes the bulk of the material away and the dovetail is then pared out square in the usual way4 ,the illustration 7,fig4 #bgf7 also shows how the chisel is held for vertical paring 7,b7 and for horizontal paring 7,c74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgg4--,roughing-out by ,boring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgh4--,marking ,pins on ,drawer ,side4 ,a third method is shown at ,fig4 #bgg4 ,with hard1 curly timbers1 such as tobacco mahogany and satinwood1 it is a laborious process to carefully chop away the timber in small pieces1 and to overcome this difficulty we occasionally see the workman take a twist-bit and bore a series of holes as shown4 ,a great portion of the timber may then be split away by inserting the chisel end-way into the grain1 after which it is pared to a finish4 ,as dovetailing is chiefly used for drawer making1 it will be of interest to give several illustrations of variations of the joint and its uses4 ,fig4 #bgh indicates the method of marking the position of the holes in the drawer side4 ,when the paring out of the dovetails is completed the drawer front is turned over on to the side as shown1 and the position of the recesses which will engage the pin portions are marked with the marking awl as illustrated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgi4--,marking by means of ,saw ,blade4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhj4--;,gauge ,lines1 ,scores and ,saw ,cuts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bha4--,sawing the ,drawer ,side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhb4--,position of ,chisel for ,cutting ,channel4 ,the completed drawer back is marked on the sides in an exactly similar manner4 ,another method of marking through dovetails is shown at ,fig #bgi4 ,the side is held in position on the end1 and the dovetail saw is inserted and drawn out of the saw kerf1 thus leaving the exact mark on the drawer-back4 ,other workers prefer a pounce-bag instead of a saw4 ,a pounce-bag consists of a piece of fairly open woven muslin filled with a mixture of ,french chalk and finely-powdered whiting2 the muslin is tied up with a piece of thin twine like the mouth of a flour sack4 ,all that is necessary is to place the timber in position and bang the bag on the top of the saw-cuts1 when sufficient powder will pass through the bag and down the saw kerf to mark the exact positions of the lines4 ,,sawing ,,the ,,dovetails4--,after marking out the pins on the drawer sides1 we proceed with the next operation1 that is1 sawing the dovetails ready for chopping out the waste material4 ,the drawer side is taken and firmly secured in the bench screw and sawn as at ,fig4 #bha2 it is most important that the saw kerf is kept inside the line which has been scratched by the marking awl4 ,see ,fig4 #bhj1 where the dotted line represents the gauge line and the outside lines indicate the scores of the marking awl4 ,failure to observe this condition will result in faulty dovetailing1 and it will also prove the necessity for using a finely-toothed and thin-bladed dovetail saw4 ,to cut out the waste wood 7or core71 the usual procedure is to saw away the half-dovetails as at ,fig4 #bge4 ,with care1 this can be accomplished with the dovetail saw1 thus avoiding unnecessary labour and the use of the paring chisel4 ,after sawing1 the drawer side is placed flat upon the bench1 one end in contact with the bench to prevent the drawer side from slipping away2 a chisel 7preferably bevelled edged7 of suitable width is now taken and a small channel is cut as at ,a1 ,fig4 #bhb4 ,the method of cutting this channel is shown in the same illustration4 ,the chisel-cut is started about #a_/h in4 from the gauge line2 the cut is made right up to the gauge line1 which 7when gauging7 was made #a_/cb in4 deep so as to cut the cross fibres of the timber4 ,a small piece of waste wood will therefore come away as at ,a4 ,the object of cutting this small channel is so that1 when the chisel is held vertically on the gauge line and struck with the mallet1 the chisel will have no tendency to force its way backward and overshoot the gauge line4 ,the waste or core is now removed by holding the chisel approximately vertical and applying sufficient power to drive it half-way through the timber4 ,the drawer side is now turned over1 the operation repeated1 and the core pushed out4 ,care must be exercised whilst cutting away the core to ensure the chisel being held nearly perpendicular2 if too much lead 7or bevel7 be given1 a faulty and undercut dovetail will be the result4 ,undercut dovetails prevent a proper grip of the glue2 they give a weak joint1 and often cause the face of the drawer side to be splintered whilst driving up the joint4 ,if it be necessary to ease one or two shavings from off the drawer side whilst fitting the completed drawer in the carcase1 the joint will show a greater gap as each succeeding shaving is removed4 ,in common work1 especially in soft timbers1 many workers allow the pins of a drawer back to run through the sides about #a_/af in4 and hammer down the pins of the dovetail4 ,this is called bishoping the dovetails1 and is unnecessary if the work be properly made and fitted4 ,an alternative method of dovetailing is that of cutting the dovetails first1 as shown at ,fig4 #bhc4 ,four or six drawer sides are placed in the vice and the dovetails are sawn at one operation4 ,a little lead 7or bevel7 from front to back is given whilst sawing1 and if this method be used care must be taken to see that the parts of the drawer sides which will be on the inside of the completed drawer are towards the worker1 or the lead will be given to the dovetails in the wrong direction4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhc4--;,cutting several ,dovetails at once4 ,after sawing the dovetails in this manner the sides are placed in their respective positions on the drawer fronts or backs1 and marked with a pounce-bag or by using the saw-blade method4 ,the pins are then cut in the usual way1 care being taken that the saw kerf be on the outside of the marks1 otherwise the pins will finish too slack to engage with the tails4 ,,frame ,,dovetails4--,fig4 #bhd is a sketch of a constructional frame such as is used for building up a cornice or plinth4 ,at the joint marked ,a an edge barefaced dovetail is shown4 ,from the separated sketches of the joint 7,b7 it will be seen that the dovetail can be put together either from the top or the bottom of the framing as all its edges are parallel2 glue is relied upon to hold it in position4 ,the centre stretcher rail at ,fig4 #bhd is similar1 except that in this case it is a complete dovetail in place of a barefaced one4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhd4--;,constructional ,frame 7as for ,plinth or ,cornice7 showing application of the ,dovetail ,joint4 ,some workers1 when making either of the above joints1 prefer to give a slight bevel to the dovetail1 so that it drives tightly into the housing when put together4 ,a variation of this type of dovetail is frequently used to joint internal uprights to the horizontal shelves of writing desks1 cabinets1 and bookcases1 etc4 ,the dovetailed portion is parallel for about three-fourths of its width2 the remaining part is tapered towards the front edge and notched away at the face so as to conceal the method of construction4 ,an illustration of the top portion of a division #ad ins4 wide is shown at ,fig4 #bhd1 ,c4 ,the other portion is of course dovetailed to fit it4 ,,blind ,,lap-,,dovetailing4--,at ,fig4 #bhe is shown a type of blind lap-dovetailing4 ,this makes a good1 sound joint1 but it has the disadvantage of showing a small portion of the timber of the front rail end-way of the grain4 ,joints of this kind are used for cornices1 boxes1 etc41 and also for painted furniture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhe4--;,blind ,lap-,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhf4--;,housed and ,mitred ,dovetail4 ,,housed ,,and ,,mitred ,,dovetail4--,fig4 #bhf is another form of dovetail--commonly called a housed and mitred or rebated and mitred dovetail4 ,in this instance we see that a small portion is mitred at top and bottom edges1 and when used in plinth or cornice work1 or for making tea-caddies1 etc41 the edges are 7when completing the work7 covered either with the moulding1 which is planted on the cornice or plinth1 or with the top and bottom of the box or tea-caddy4 ,the method of making a housed and mitred dovetail joint is seen in ,fig4 #bhf4 ,the ends to be joined are planed up true and square and then rebated as shown4 ,the dotted lines indicate the portion which has been worked away4 ,the dovetails are now sawn and pared out in the usual way and the part denoted by the arrow is afterwards cut away with a chisel and finally finished to a smooth surface with a rebate plane2 the method of working is shown at ,fig4 #bhg1 where the dovetail pins are seen with the waste portions cut away4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhg4--,working a ,housed and ,mitred ,dovetail ,joint4 ,fig4 #bhg also shows the method of cutting away the mitred part4 ,a temporary piece of wood is planed to a true mitre and placed underneath the dovetailed piece to form a template4 ,both pieces of the timber are now secured to the bench with a handscrew or cramp2 the template ,a will form a guide for the chisel and rebate plane and allow a sharp edge or arris to be worked on the mitre4 ,a ,,secret ,,mitred ,,dovetail joint is illustrated at ,fig4 #bhh2 it is used in all the better class of cabinet and box work4 ,fig4 #bhh shows the pieces separated2 note the mitre at the top and bottom edge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhh4--,secret ,mitre ,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhi4--;,dovetailed ,keys for ,wide ,surfaces4 ,,dovetail ,,keying4--,fig4 #bhi is a method used to prevent wide boards such as signboards1 wide and shaped pediments1 etc41 from casting or warping4 ,it is called dovetail keying4 ,beyond calling attention to the fact that the angles at the edges of the keys1 where they are bevelled1 should be at or about #ge degrees1 nothing further need be said1 as the drawing is self-explanatory4 ,angle dovetail keying is shown at ,figs4 #bij and #bia4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bij4--;,dovetail ,key4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bia4--;,dovetail ,keying on the ,angle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bib4--;,bow-fronted ,door ,dovetailed ,edgeways4 ,,other ,,varieties4--,at ,fig4 #bib we have an everyday method of jointing circular-fronted cabinet door frames4 ,great care must be taken in setting out and making1 or a twisted frame will result4 ,then at ,fig4 #bic are shown two familiar examples of dovetailing the bearer to the carcase end of a dressing table or washstand4 ,fig4 #bid4--,lap-dovetailing the top of a wardrobe to the carcase end4 ,other examples1 such as the top of a bookcase to the sides1 will suggest themselves4 ,fig4 #bie4--,side view of a jewel drawer with a moulded drawer front as used on dressing tables1 etc4 ,this shows the necessity of bevelled dovetailing in order that the drawer front may be kept as thin and light as possible4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bic4--;,carcase ,work1 showing ,bearer ,rails ,dovetailed4 ,fig4 #bif4--;,bevelled dovetailing when pins are at right angles to the end cut4 ,fig4 #big4--;,bevelled dovetailing when the centre line of the pins is parallel to the edges of the work1 used for making hoppers1 food troughs1 knife boxes1 etc4 ,one corner of the box shows the joint separated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bid4--,lap-,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bie4--;,jewel ,drawer ,side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bif4--;,bevelled ,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #big4--;,bevelled and ,dovetailed ,box1 showing the ,jointing of ,one ,corner ,separated4 ,fig4 #bih4--;,an example of oblique dovetailing1 as used on hoppers when one piece is vertical and the other piece is inclined4 ,fig4 #bii4--,method of dovetailing small boxes4 ,the box is dovetailed in one width and the top and bottom glued on2 the sides and ends are then cut along the dotted line1 thus forming the lid4 ,it will be noticed that a specially wide dovetail pin must be left so as to form part of the lid and part of the lower portion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bih4--,oblique ,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bii4--;,dovetailing for ,small ,box4 ,,setting ,,out ,,the ,,joint4--,for constructing a dovetail joint at the corner of a frame1 as ,fig4 #cjj1 it is necessary at the outset to trim up the ends of the timber square and true4 ,this may be accomplished by neatly sawing to the line and paring the end of the wood with a sharp chisel1 or by bringing the wood to a finish with a finely-set plane1 such as an iron-faced smoothing plane4 ,the ends of the wood must be perfectly square when tested from either the face side or from the marked edge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjj4--;,corner ,dovetail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cja4--,squaring4 ,take a cutting gauge and set it to equal the thickness of the timber1 and1 holding it as already shown at ,fig4 #bgc1 strike the gauge lines on the wood as illustrated at ,fig4 #cjb1 ,g4 ,proceed to mark out the dovetail pins1 as at ,fig4 #cjc2 in this illustration ,g again shows the gauge line4 ,the inclination of the lines across the end of the wood should not be too great1 or the joint will be a weak one1 and the edges of the dovetails will be liable to crumble away when the work is knocked together4 ,,dovetailing ,,template4--,many workers who are constantly engaged upon dovetail joints make a small wooden template1 as shown at ,fig4 #cjd4 ,this template is generally of hardwood1 such as beech or walnut4 ,the method of obtaining the correct angles of such a template has already been given on p4 #acd4 ,notice that the lines bb 7,fig4 #cjc7 of the dovetail pins do not bevel2 they are parallel to the sides of the wood and at right angles to the end of the wood as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjb4--;,gauging4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjc4--,marking the ,pins4 ,,chisel ,,work4--,after marking out1 as shown at ,fig4 #cjc1 place the wood on the bench and proceed to chop away the centre portion in the following manner4 ,hold the chisel on the bevel and cut out a small piece to form a channel at the gauge line4 ,now hold the chisel in a vertical position1 and with a mallet strike it so as to make a cut about #a_/h in4 deep4 ,then hold the chisel on the bevel again and cut away more waste wood2 proceed alternately1 first forcing the chisel down vertically1 and then paring the wood away with the chisel held obliquely1 until you have cut half-way through the thickness of the wood4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjd4--;,hand-made ,template for ,marking ,dovetails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cje4--,testing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjf4--,the ,marked ,piece4 ,turn the wood over and repeat the various operations until the core1 or waste piece1 is removed4 ,pare away any little irregularities which may be left in the corners with an #a_/h-;in4 chisel1 thus leaving all smooth and neat4 ,lay the piece of wood which is to have the dovetail marked on it flat upon the bench1 and take the piece with the dovetail pins cut upon it and place in the position shown at ,fig4 #cje4 ,,saw ,,work4--,take a marking awl1 or a knitting needle which has had its end sharpened1 and mark the lines of the dovetail in a similar manner to that shown at ,fig4 #cjg4 ,remove the piece ,a1 ,fig4 #cje1 and the lower piece shown at ,fig4 #cje will clearly show the marks aa as they appear in ,fig4 #cjf4 ,place the piece 7,fig4 #cjf7 in the vice1 and saw outside the lines ,,aa1 as shown in ,fig4 #cjh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjg4--,marking ,dovetails with ,marking ,awl4 ,after sawing down the lines ,,aa1 ,fig4 #cjh1 place the wood in the vice and1 guiding the saw blade with the index finger of the left hand1 cut away the small piece at the side 7see ,fig4 #bge74 ,repeat the operation as may be necessary1 and the completed joint will be similar to that shown at ,fig4 #cjj4 ,if the sawing is not neatly done it may be found necessary to pare the shoulder with a sharp chisel4 ,,drawers4--,when dovetailing drawers or boxes it is necessary to square up the ends of all the stock and gauge them1 as shown at ,fig4 #bgc4 ,this illustration shows how to gauge the lines on a drawer side2 the dovetailed joint in this case1 however1 does not run through the drawer front and leave the work unsightly1 as the joint at ,fig4 #cjj would do4 ,the method used is shown at ,fig4 #cji1 and it is commonly known as lap-dovetailing4 ,most workers cut the dovetail pins on the drawer fronts and the drawer backs first1 after which they mark the drawer sides with the marking awl4 ,the dovetailing of the drawer back is shown at ,fig4 #caj4 ,this is the type known as through dovetailing1 the method being similar in regard to tool operations as the single joint shown at ,fig4 #cjj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjh4--,sawing the ,dovetails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cji4--,lap-dovetailing ,drawer ,front to ,drawer ,side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #caj4--,through ,dovetailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #caa4--;,chipping ,waste of ,lap ,dovetail4 ,when the pins on the drawer front have been sawn1 the waste material is cut away1 as at ,fig4 #caa4 ,first stab down with the vertical chisel1 which must make the cut about #a_/cb in4 in front of the gauge line 7see illustration74 ,this commencing of the cut slightly in front of the gauge line is a very important feature4 ,the chisel may be likened to a wedge1 and if the chisel edge be placed exactly upon the gauge line and force be applied to the handle1 it will force the timber away equally on each side of the gauge line1 and the finished depth of the hole will therefore be too deep for the thickness of the drawer side2 in other words1 it will press itself over the gauge line on both sides4 ,by taking the first vertical cut on the waste side of the gauge line1 and then removing a small piece with the chisel held obliquely1 as at ,fig4 #caa1 the wood is removed and less resistance is offered to the chisel when the next vertical cut is made4 ,this overshooting the gauge line is a common fault with the beginner1 who is puzzled at the result because he is certain he had his chisel exactly on the gauge line when he commenced his vertical cut4 ,it is especially noticeable in soft-grained woods4 ,to cut away the waste of a lap-dovetail 7,fig4 #caa71 the vertical and oblique cuts are repeated until the final trimming up is required1 and now is the time to finish both the vertical and the horizontal cuts exactly on the gauge lines4 ,some workers prefer to cut the drawer sides first1 and if this method is preferred 7and it has its advantages for cheap work7 several drawer sides are cut at once by placing four or six behind one another in the vice and sawing them all at one operation4 ,the drawer front is placed in the vice1 and the drawer side held upon it1 whilst the saw blade is placed in the saw kerf and drawn smartly forward4 ,this will give the required marks at the exact position desired4 ,it must be remembered1 however1 to saw just inside these dovetail-pin lines1 otherwise the finished joint will be too slack1 owing to the removal of the sawdust1 which is practically equal to the thickness of the saw blade4 ,,machine-,,made ,,dovetails4--,as a general rule machine-made drawer and box dovetails show both the pins and the tails of exactly the same size4 ,the reason is obvious after an inspection of ,fig4 #cad1 which shows the position in which the pieces are held during the machining operations4 ,in spite of a certain amount of prejudice they are satisfactory and thoroughly reliable and have their place in modern shop and office fittings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cab4--,machine-made ,drawer ,front and ,side1 ,apart4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cac4--,the ,parts ,together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cad4--,position when ,machined4 ,,dovetail ,,grooving ,the dovetail housing joint should first be carefully marked out with a marking knife1 so as to cut across the fibres of the wood4 ,for obtaining the bevel on the edge of the wood a joiner's bevel may be used1 and the angle should not be too acute4 7,see previous chapter47 ,take a chisel and pare away a small channel as at ,a1 ,fig4 #cae1 to form a small shoulder to guide the saw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cae4--,paring away ,channel for ,dovetail ,grooving4 ,with a fine tenon or dovetail saw1 cut the saw kerf as at ,fig4 #caf4 ,if any difficulty is experienced in cutting the kerf true and square1 you may resort to the method shown at ,c1 ,fig4 #cae2 a small temporary piece of timber has been screwed on the top of the work to form a guide for the saw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #caf4--;,cutting the ,saw ,kerf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cag4--,old ,woman's ,tooth ,plane4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cah4--;,guide ,block for ,bevelling4 ,fig4 #cae1 ,b1 shows the small channel formed by the chisel prior to the sawing operation4 ,the sawing of the bevelled side is worked in a similar manner2 but occasionally we find amateurs who adopt the method shown at ,fig4 #cah4 ,a block of wood 7,h7 is first made by boring a #a-a_/d-;in4 hole through its entire length1 and afterwards making a saw cut at the desired bevel4 ,the object of this block1 which is kept specially for the purpose1 is to form a guide for those who have not full control of the dovetail saw2 the back of the saw clears the hole1 and the required bevel is obtained4 ,when a saw cut has been made at each side of the groove1 the surplus timber is pared away in the following manner3 ,cut away portion ,e1 ,fig4 #cai2 then cut away portion ,f1 and lastly cut away the apex portion marked ,g4 ,continue by this method of paring until the approximate depth is reached4 ,to ensure a correct depth throughout the entire groove1 the router plane 7or1 as it is often called1 the old woman's tooth plane1 ,fig4 #cag7 is used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cai4--,showing ,method of ,paring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbj4--;,channelling the ,alternate ,piece4 ,with regard to cutting the alternate piece1 it is necessary to first plane the end of the shelf true and square4 ,with a cutting gauge strike the line ,k1 ,fig4 #cbj2 the required bevel on the edge 7,j7 is then set out1 and with the chisel a small channel is again formed4 ,with the tenon or dovetail saw cut down the line ,k to the required depth1 and carefully pare away the wood with a sharp chisel to the correct shape4 ,,the ,,mitred ,,joint ,although mitreing is used in everyday woodwork1 it comes last in our list of regular joints simply because it has been partly dealt with in almost every previous chapter4 ,for example1 we have mitre halving in ,fig4 #cd1 a mitre bridle joint in ,fig4 #gd1 a tongued and grooved mitre in ,fig4 #aaf1 mitred mortise and tenon joints in ,figs4 #adh and #aei1 a dowelled mitre frame in ,fig4 #bjb1 and a mitred dovetail in ,fig4 #bhf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cba4--,mitred ,skirting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbb4--;,curved ,mitre4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbc4--;,halving the ,angle4 ,,mitreing4--,the term mitreing is generally used to denote the type of joint used at the corner of a picture frame2 or where two pieces of wood are bevelled away so as to fit each other1 as the skirting or plinth mould at ,fig4 #cba4 ,in these cases the timber is cut so that the joint is at #de degrees to the face1 and the two pieces1 when placed together1 form an angle of #ij degrees 7a right angle74 ,the term mitreing1 however1 is not confined to the fitting of timber around a right angle2 it may be justly applied to the fitting of a moulding around an angle irrespective of the number of its degrees4 ,one often hears such terms as a half mitre1 used to denote the fitting of a moulding around an octagonal column or pedestal1 and probably it would be more correct to describe the joint as a mitre cut at #bb-a_/b degrees4 ,mitreing consists of halving the angle and making each piece to fit the line of bisection4 ,should the angle be bounded by straight lines1 as at ,fig4 #cba1 then the mitred joint will be a straight line1 but should the angle be bounded by a curved and a straight line1 as at ,fig4 #cbb1 ,a1 or by two curved lines1 then the mitred joint will have to be a curved line if the mouldings are to be of the same section4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbd4--,sawing ,block for ,mitreing4 ,,finding ,,the ,,angle4--,for straight mitres1 the mitre joint line is found by bisecting the angle1 as shown in the various examples1 and the following instructions are given to enable the reader to follow the diagram 7,fig4 #cbc74 ,take a pair of compasses1 or dividers1 and with any convenient opening strike out the arc ,a1 ,b4 ,put the point of the compasses on ,a1 and mark another arc ,c2 then1 without altering the distance between the points of the compass1 put the point on ,b1 and mark the arc ,d4 ,draw the line ,e from the corner1 so that it cuts through the intersection made by the arcs ,c and ,d4 ,the angle ,a ,b is now halved by the line ,e1 and this method may be applied to any angle4 ,,sawing ,,block4--,for sawing mouldings1 etc41 to their approximate shape1 a home-made sawing block is generally used1 as shown at ,fig4 #cbd4 ,two pieces of wood are glued one on the top of the other1 the required angle is transferred thereto1 and the saw kerf made4 ,in the sketch the saw kerfs are shown at #de degrees1 right and left1 and other angles and kerfs may be made where desired4 ,,planing4--,after sawing the piece to approximately the correct angle1 it is necessary on high-class work to plane the cut end so as to give a perfect finish and enable a glued joint to be made4 ,this may be accomplished by using the plane on the shooting board1 as shown at ,fig4 #cbe1 and1 if the worker is constantly using mitres of various angles1 it is an easy matter to make new angle blocks and fix them on to the board4 ,other workers prefer the screw mitre trap shown at ,fig4 #cbf4 ,this apparatus takes wide plinth or cornice moulds1 and the angle may be altered by fitting temporary packing pieces under the work so as to tilt the moulding to the desired angle4 ,the method of using the plane is indicated in the illustration4 ,another method in everyday use by those workers who are constantly mitreing wide pieces of stock at #de degrees is the donkey's ear shooting board illustrated at ,fig4 #cbg4 ,the plane is laid on its side on the surface of the board marked ,a1 and used in a similar manner to that shown at ,fig4 #cbe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbe4--,use of ,plane and ,shooting ,board for ,mitreing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbf4--,the ,screw ,mitre ,trap4 ,a simple method and one that should always be remembered because it is handy when working without a shooting board is shown at ,fig4 #cbh4 ,set the marking or cutting gauge to the thickness of the wood to be mitred at #de degrees2 then gauge this distance on the wood1 as shown at ,b2 draw from the line to the edge1 as shown1 and saw and plane to a finish4 ,the diagonals of a square give #de degrees1 and this is the method used to mark out the work4 ,the end of the wood must1 of course1 be square with its edges before marking out in this manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbg4--;,donkey's ,ear ,shooting ,board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbh4--;,gauging for ,mitres4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cbi4--,narrow ,inner ,moulding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccj4--,wide ,mitred ,moulding4 ,fig4 #cbi shows a bevelled framing into which has been mitred a narrow moulding ,m so as to show a correct margin around the panel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cca4--;,door with ,curved ,mitres4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccb4--,method of ,setting out for a ,curved ,mitre4 ,fig4 #ccj shows a similar framing1 but with a wide moulding ,m mitred around it4 ,to obtain a correct intersection of this moulding1 the angles ,a and ,b are bisected4 ,the bisection of the angles meets before the width of the moulding is cleared1 therefore the angle ,c will again have to be bisected1 and the finished joint will appear as shown4 ,one of the simplest of mouldings with a large flat face has been chosen to illustrate this4 ,the moulding could be all in one width1 as shown1 or it could be built into the framing in separate pieces1 the wide flat and the piece carrying the mould4 ,,curved ,,mitres4--,we now come to what are probably the most difficult of all mitres1 viz41 curved mitres1 and the writer well remembers in his apprenticeship days his first experience of attempting to fit the mouldings around the door shown at ,fig4 #cca by using straight mitres at ,a4 ,this1 of course1 is impossible if the mouldings are of the same section and it is desired to make all the members correctly intersect4 ,if straight mitres are used the section of the curved moulding will have to be of a different shape from the section of the straight moulding1 and in these days of machine-made mouldings this method is seldom resorted to4 ,it is better1 cheaper1 and easier to make curved mitres when the necessary machinery is at hand4 ,,to ,,set ,,out ,a ,,curved ,,mitre 7see ,fig4 #ccb74--;,draw a section of the moulding full size1 ,a1 as shown at the left hand of the illustration1 and project lines round the framing1 as shown ,v1 ,w1 ,x1 ,y and ,z4 ,where the lines ,v1 ,w1 ,x1 ,y and ,z intersect at the corner ,d1 it clearly shows that a straight mitre will not cut all the points of intersection4 ,a curved line will cut all the intersections1 and a template made of cardboard1 sheet zinc1 or veneer1 should be made to this shape4 ,at the left-hand side the geometrical setting out is shown for obtaining the curve without having to resort to drawing it freehand4 ,take half the width of the moulding1 as shown by dotted line ,a1 and where it cuts the approximation of the curved mitre place the point of the compasses and strike out a circle as shown2 with the same radius place the compass point on ,b--that is1 the inside point of the mitre1 and cut the circle on the right and left with the small arcs shown at aa4 ,with the same radius put the compass point at the junction of the circle and mitre line1 ,c ,v1 and cut the circle at right and left1 viz41 ee4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccc4--,template for ,mitreing4 ,now rule a line through aa1 and another line through ee1 and where these lines cut each other it will give the correct radius of the curved mitre4 ,the advantage of knowing the correct radius of a curved mitre is of great benefit to the skilled machinist1 as it enables him to set up his machine so as to give a definite result4 ,,mitreing ,a ,,moulded ,,door ,,frame4--,fig4 #ccc illustrates the method of mitreing the moulded portion of a door frame where the joint is dowelled1 not tenoned4 ,a small wooden template is made out of beech or other hardwood1 having its ends cut at #de degrees4 ,this template is placed on the rail1 as shown1 and held in position by placing both the rail and the template in the vice4 ,the face of the template forms a guide for a wide chisel1 and enables the worker to gradually pare away the moulding to the correct angle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccd4--,using ,panel ,saw in ,mitre ,box4 ,for sawing the mitres on large mouldings such as are used on the lid of a gramophone or wireless cabinet1 a mitre sawing box and a panel saw may be used as indicated at ,fig4 #ccd4 ,,joints ,,for ,,curved ,,work ,fig4 #cce shows a circular frame made up in two thicknesses1 the segments being screwed to each other and the joints crossed in two layers4 ,this is a very strong method1 and it is used for making circular frames and curbs up to #ae ft4 in diameter4 ,the segments can be either long or short1 the only important condition being that they must be marked out and sawn to the correct radius4 ,fig4 #ccg shows a board marked out in segments for this class of work4 ,the longer the boards the better will they cut up1 as it gives more opportunities of cutting one piece out of the other as at ,a ,a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cce4--;,circular ,frame in ,two ,thicknesses4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccf4--;,circular ,rim in ,halved ,segments4 ,fig4 #cch shows how to begin to put the work together4 ,to continue this1 fit other segments in position and screw them to ,d and ,e respectively4 ,the completed work is illustrated at ,fig4 #cce4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ccg4--;,board ,marked for ,circular ,jointing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cch4--,putting ,circular ,work ,together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cci41 ,fig4 #cdj4 ,method of ,building up ,semicircular ,head of ,door ,frame4 ,fig4 #ccf shows a circular rim1 or curb1 made of segments which are halved together4 ,this method is suitable for heavy work1 where the timbers are of considerable size4 ,the halvings are cut on the ends of the segments to any convenient shape or bevel1 each one being marked so as to fit its fellow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cda4--,part of ,laminated ,table ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdb4--;,half of ,laminated ,core ,box4 ,when extra length is required1 semicircular or circular work is built up out of four or five thicknesses of wood1 and the method is called laminating4 ,the method of building up the semicircular head of a door frame by this method is shown at ,figs4 #cci and #cdj4 ,the shaped framing for kidney-shaped writing tables and similar classes of work is built up by laminating pieces of #c_/d-;in4 or #a-;in4 wood1 after which the face side is veneered so as to hide the glued joints4 ,fig4 #cda shows a sketch of one quarter of an elliptical table frame levelled up and ready for applying the veneer4 ,,lamination4--,if we apply to the dictionary for the word lamination1 we find that lamellar structure is the arrangements in thin plates or layers one over the other1 usually having the end joints alternating1 and it is a condition which allows of cleavage in one direction only4 ,this method is used for nearly all descriptions of free or irregular curves1 such as sweeps1 bends1 ogee shapes1 and segments of circles4 ,the timber is marked out in suitable lengths1 rough-sawn and then planed true on the face1 glued together1 and when set the sides are cleaned up to the required shape4 ,it is one of the strongest methods of construction1 and necessarily costly4 ,pulleys1 pulley rims1 and a hundred and one other jobs are built by this method4 ,fig4 #cdb shows one half of a core box built by this method1 ready to be worked to the required shape4 ,,miscellaneous ,,joints ,weather boards4--,for outdoor buildings1 such as garages1 garden sheds1 toolhouses1 etc41 weatherboarding is often preferred to ordinary matchboarding1 chiefly because of the facility with which it throws off the rain4 ,the boarding can be bought ready prepared4 ,three methods of jointing are shown in the sections at ,fig4 #cdc4 ,the method indicated at ,a shows one of the most satisfactory types1 its boards being planed and moulded as shown4 ,the other two examples are more common4 ,the boarding at ,b is rebated1 whilst at ,c each board overhangs its lower neighbour4 ,the boards for ,c and ,d are always cut tapered as indicated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdc4--,weather ,boards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdd4--,ladder ,rungs4 ,the end grain is usually protected by nailing on a strip of timber1 chamfered on both edges4 ,,ladders4--,fig4 #cdd illustrates the method of fastening the rung 7or stave7 of a ladder to the side4 ,at ,a the common method is shown1 the stave being simply driven into the hole and wedged4 ,at ,b a much better but more expensive method of construction is given4 ,the stave here is socketed and the pin turned to a smaller diameter4 ,in both cases the rung1 or stave1 is painted before being driven into the side and wedged4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cde4--;,cornice ,pole ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdf4--,veneer ,keying4 ,ladder sides are made in two distinct ways4 ,one method is known as a plank side1 the side being cut from a plank as shown at the section ,d2 the other method is called a pole side1 and is constructed by cutting a straight larch pole in half and using half of the pole for each side of the ladder1 as at section ,c4 ,,hinged ,,cornice ,,poles4--,fig4 #cde shows a hinged joint for cornice poles and should be of interest to those who are frequently removing from house to house4 ,the joint will adapt itself to fit any bay window 7even a square bay7 and it is formed by turning and cutting the two pieces shown4 ,to fix a cornice pole to a bay window one of these joints is required for each angle of the bay1 the pole being cut into suitable lengths and fixed to the hinged joints by the use of the dowel screw and a little hot glue4 ,it is perhaps needless to remark that the diameter of the joint should be of the same diameter as the cornice pole1 to enable the rings to easily slide over the surface4 ,for fastening a turned ornament 7or finial7 to the end of a cornice pole a double pointed screw 7known in the trade as a dowel screw7 is used1 one half of which is screwed into each part of the pieces to be joined4 ,,veneer ,,keying4--,fig4 #cdf illustrates the method of strengthening the corners of boxes which are made of #a_/d-;in4 or #c_/h-;in4 timber1 by securing the corners with veneer keys4 ,the box is mitred and glued in the usual manner1 and after allowing sufficient time for the glue to set1 saw kerfs are made as shown at a a4 ,a piece of thin saw-cut veneer is afterwards glued into the saw kerfs1 and when dry the face is levelled off flush4 ,this method is often used previous to veneering the face side of the box with rare veneers1 and it is also useful for repair work4 ,note that the saw cuts are made at an angle4 ,small picture frames are sometimes keyed instead of nailed4 ,,muntin ,,and ,,skirting ,,joint4--,in the case of panelled rooms it is usually necessary to scribe the muntins 7or uprights7 to the skirting4 ,the method is shown in ,fig4 #cdg4 ,the bead moulding of the skirting is only partly removed1 as indicated1 leaving a solid portion to which the muntin is skew-nailed4 ,,cot ,,joint4--,at ,fig4 #cdh is shown an interesting joint used largely in the making of ,indian cots4 ,the illustrations indicate how the cross bar and end bar are mortised into the leg4 ,a turned hardwood peg fits into a suitably provided hole and locks the tenons1 which are dry jointed 7not glued7 in position4 ,the head of this peg forms an ornament 7,a7 at the top of the leg and should fit tightly in position4 ,at ,b are seen the end and cross bars in their relative positions when apart from the leg4 ,c shows the end bar and cross bar when the cot is fixed1 but in this illustration the leg is purposely left out of the drawing for a clear representation4 ,d shows the joints of the leg portion when the part of the leg above the line at ,a is sawn off4 ,the hardwood peg is shown at ,e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdg4--;,fixing ,muntin to ,skirting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdh4--;,joint for ,home-made ,cot4 ,,sideboard ,,pillars1 ,,etc4 7,fig4 #cdi74--;,for economy1 sideboard pillars are sometimes built up as indicated1 the shaft1 the base1 and the swell being made up of three distinct pieces4 ,turned pins are left on the shaft and the base1 and these are secured at the joint by the use of a double-pointed screw called a dowel screw4 ,this does away with the necessity of reducing the squares at the top of the wood and thus getting the turning out of a large piece of wood4 ,,notched ,,joints4--,fig4 #cej is a notched joint1 where two joists1 or scantlings1 cross each other1 the object of the joint being to prevent the joists moving from their position without materially weakening them4 ,for an end notch1 see ,fig4 #ceb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cdi4--,method of ,building up ,turnings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cej4--,notched ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cea4--,the ,saddle ,joint4 ,the saddle joint 7,fig4 #cea7 is used for connecting upright posts to heads or sills of framing1 and undoubtedly takes its name from its similarity to the way in which the saddle fits the horse4 ,it does not weaken the framing as does a mortise and tenon joint1 and shrinkage has little effect upon the joint4 ,the cogged joint1 used for connecting purlins to rafter and joists to girders1 is illustrated in ,fig4 #cec4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ceb4--;,end ,notch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cec4--;,cogged ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ced4--;,birdsmouth ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cee4--;,another type of ,birdsmouth ,joint4 ,,birdsmouth ,,joints4--,fig4 #ced is a birdsmouth joint1 a simple joint which can be readily made by the handsaw1 used when a spar fits on the wall plate4 ,a nail is shown securing it in position4 ,fig4 #cee shows the birdsmouth joint where the spar runs over the outside of the wall plate1 thus allowing a fixing for an ornamental finish4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cef4--,rafter and ,tie ,beam ,joint4 ,,rafter ,,joint4--,fig4 #cef shows an everyday joint1 as used at the juncture of the principal rafter and the tie-beam in roof truss work4 ,a sketch of piece ,a is shown separated1 and it should be noted that the depth of the cut portion ,b should not be more than one-fourth of the total width of the tie-beam4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ceg4--,method of ,pelleting the ,corner of a ,mitred ,picture ,frame4 ,,pelleting4--,fig4 #ceg indicates the method of pelleting and screwing the corner of a picture frame4 ,the mitre joint is first screwed and a pellet of the same timber is made to fill the hole which has been bored to receive the screw head4 ,the pellet is glued in position and levelled off4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ceh4--,patera ,covers to ,hide ,screws4 ,,patera ,,covers4--,in cases where the style of ornament permits of it1 patera covers are used instead of pelleting4 ,fig4 #ceh shows the jointing of shaped spandrails1 etc41 to carcase ends of light portable cabinet work1 etc4 ,a hole is bored about #c_/h in4 deep into the end1 and a screw is used to hold the shaping in position4 ,after fixing the rail a small turned button1 called a turned patera1 is inserted in the hole1 thus giving an ornamental finish1 as shown in the front view4 ,the turned patera is driven fairly tightly into the hole1 but not glued4 ,when it is required to take the article apart a chisel is carefully inserted under the edge of the patera to remove it1 and the screw can then be taken out4 ,this method is often used for the construction of light hanging bookcases and similar objects4 ,for a bookcase having an end #h ins4 wide three of these turned buttons and three screws would be used to secure the shelf to the end4 ,pateras in different styles may be purchased from any dealer in woodworking sundries4 ,,buttoning4--,the tops of tables1 sideboards1 etc41 should not be fixed with screws in the ordinary way4 ,at the front1 screws can be driven upwards through the top rail1 but at the sides and back1 buttons should be employed1 as in ,fig4 #cei1 so that the top is free to shrink4 ,it is otherwise liable to split if immovably fixed4 ,the tops of kitchen tables are usually fixed in this way1 to allow for shrinkage4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cei4--,method of ,buttoning a ,table ,top4 ,,frames ,,for ,,oil ,,paintings4--,the method of making joints for frames on which the canvas is stretched for oil paintings is shown at ,fig4 #cfj4 ,they are generally mitred at the corners and fitted with loose wedges4 ,the four parts of the frame can be held temporarily by a piece of thin board while the canvas is being tacked to the edges of the frame4 ,in the accompanying illustrations ,fig4 #cfj shows the action of the wedges when tightening up the frame1 the result being to open the mitre joint4 ,fig4 #cfa shows the position of the saw cuts for receiving the hardwood wedges4 ,note that the parallel groove is carried the full length of the material for greater convenience in cutting4 ,the other groove is taken from the outer angle of the mitre joint inwards4 ,the cut finishes with due regard to the necessary taper2 see the dotted lines showing taper in ,fig4 #cfj4 ,the grooves will be wide enough after being cut with an ordinary hand-rip saw1 but for large work they are usually grooved on the circular saw bench4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfj41 ,fig4 #cfa4 ,joint and ,method of ,wedging the ,frames of ,oil ,paintings4 ,,corrugated ,,steel ,,fasteners4--,it is now many years ago since the steel saw-edge fastener first appeared on the market1 but probably #hj per cent4 of amateur woodworkers have never yet sampled its advantages4 ,in appearance it resembles a miniature corrugated galvanised sheet such as is used for roofing purposes1 with the exception1 however1 that the corrugations are divergent instead of being parallel and that one end is ground down to a cutting edge 7see ,fig4 #cfc1 ,a74 ,they are made in various sizes from #a_/d in4 to #a in4 in length1 whilst in regard to width they are classed by the number of corrugations and not by their measurement4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfb4--;,jointing ,boards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfc4--;,jointing a ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,the ,use of ,saw-edge ,corrugated ,steel ,fasteners4 ,to use the fastener no special tools are required2 it is simply driven in with a hammer exactly as though it were a nail2 once in position1 however1 to get it out is worse than drawing teeth4 ,the corrugations add to the strength of the device1 the wood fibres closing around them1 age and rust but emphasising their grip4 ,,wall ,,plugs4--,at ,fig4 #cfd four types of wall plugs are shown3 a1 the ordinary rectangular tapered wall plug to drive between the joints of the brickwork2 b1 the circular tapered wall plug as used to plug a wall after a star-shaped brick drill has been used2 d1 a twisted wall plug used for similar purposes to the wedge a1 but considered to be superior in holding power owing to its twisted formation2 c is another type of wall plug considered to have great tenacity by reason of its corrugations4 ,wall plugs are required in nearly all cases where it is necessary to joint woodwork to brickwork1 as1 for instance1 heavily-framed silvered mirrors to the walls of shops4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfd4--,wall ,plugs1 ,four ,varieties4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfe4--,slot ,screwing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cff4--,slot ,screwing a ,bracket4 ,,slot ,,screwing1 ,,or ,,keyhole ,,screwing1 is a most useful way of joining light woodwork in such a manner that the fixing method is not exposed to the eye4 ,a stout screw is inserted to within #c_/h in4 of the head1 as at ,fig4 #cfe4 ,in the adjoining piece a hole is bored with a centre bit and a slot is cut with an #a_/h-;in4 chisel4 ,the two pieces of timber are placed together1 and by sliding the upper piece forward the screw runs up into the slot or keyhole and secures the joint4 ,fig4 #cff shows the application of the joint fixing a shaped bracket to the shaped shelf2 the bracket and shelf are inverted in the illustration to clearly show the method of jointing4 ,for heavy work special brass plates are obtainable for this purpose2 one plate is let flush into the upper piece and the other plate into the lower piece4 ,battening 7,fig4 #cfg74--;,a good method of joining cross battens to drawing boards and other wide surfaces is shown here4 ,after boring for the screws1 slots are cut so as to allow the screws to move along the slots when shrinkage takes place4 ,in ,fig4 #cfh a similar method is applied to secure the drawer bottom to the drawer back4 ,if shrinkage takes place in the drawer bottom and it leaves the groove in the drawer front1 the screws are slackened1 the drawer bottom is knocked up into the groove1 and the screws again inserted4 ,for drawing boards1 etc41 specially made elliptical-shaped slotted brass socket cups are made to receive the screw heads4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfg4--;,battening4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfh4--;,drawer ,bottom ,joint4 ,,puzzle ,,joints ,puzzle ,joints are not only interesting in themselves1 but are often excellent studies in craftsmanship4 ,the majority of them1 if to be satisfactory as puzzles1 call for very careful setting out and cutting1 entailing the same degree of skill that is demanded for high-class cabinet work4 ,for this reason several examples may well find a place in a volume dealing with woodwork joints4 ,as a rule1 these puzzles should be made in hardwood1 such as dark walnut or beech1 as in whitewood the joints are soon liable to wear4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cfi4--,sketch of the ,completed ,chinese ,puzzle4 ,,chinese ,,puzzle4--,the ingenious puzzle of the ,chinese type shown in ,fig4 #cfi is probably older than many of us could guess1 but as it is one that can be made by any woodworker we give full directions as to how it may be constructed4 ,the complete article may be called1 in form1 a six-pointed pyramid4 ,it is made up of twenty-one different pieces1 each cut from wood #a_/b in4 wide and #a_/b in4 thick2 #c_/h in4 wood may be used if preferred4 ,for the purpose either sycamore or white maple is the most useful4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgj41 ,fig4 #cga41 ,fig4 #cgb4 ,the ,three ,cross ,pieces4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgc4--,key ,piece4 ,the pieces required are as follows3-- ,fig4 #cgj4--,six pieces1 #c-a_/b ins4 long1 with a half slot cut in the centre as shown4 ,this slot must be exactly the width of the wood's thickness1 and cut exactly half way through1 so that1 if two pieces are placed across by means of the halved joint1 their surfaces will be flush4 ,the slot must also be exactly in the centre4 ,fig4 #cga4--,six pieces1 size #b-a_/b ins4 long1 with a half-cut centre slot similar to that of ,fig4 #cgj4 ,fig4 #cgb4--,six required1 these being #a-a_/b ins4 in length1 and with slots in the middle as before4 ,fig4 #cgc4--,one of these last six requires special treatment1 as it forms the key block of the puzzle4 ,after its slot has been cut1 one half of the narrow part must be sawn away1 as shown in ,fig4 #cgc4 ,the inner edge must also be gently rounded4 ,the special use of this vital piece1 which we will call the key1 will be fully explained presently4 ,fig4 #cgd4--,then1 in addition to these1 there are three central bars to make4 ,like the other parts they are #a_/b in4 by #a_/b in41 but are each #d-a_/b ins4 long1 and are cut as shown in ,fig4 #cgd4 ,the end projections a are #a_/b in4 long1 and the cut-away part is exactly half the depth of the wood4 ,two of the three pieces 7,x and ,y in ,fig4 #cgd7 are similar1 but the slot b of the third one 7,z7 is only #a_/d in4 wide instead of #a_/b in4 ,as will be noticed1 this #a_/d-;in4 slot is not in the centre1 but corresponds with the right-hand half of the larger slots of ,x and ,y4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgd4--,the ,central ,bars4 ,in making these twenty-one pieces1 what should be borne in mind is that the different parts fit closely into each other4 ,consequently the slots1 in width1 must be cut so as to grip the thickness of the wood2 in depth they must be exactly half this thickness4 ,,fitting ,,the ,,puzzle4--,the three central bars must first be joined1 as those form the skeleton framework of the structure4 ,fig4 #cge shows them in position1 but as it is a puzzle in itself as to how they can be got thus some explanation is necessary4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cge4--,the ,three ,central ,bars in ,position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgf4--;,how to ,adjust the ,bars4 7,note position of projecting ends1 a47 ,,first ,,stage4--,first take the bars ,x and ,y 7see ,fig4 #cgd7 and arrange them as shown in ,fig4 #cgf4 ,it is most important that the projections a of ,x face upwards1 and that the projections a of ,y face towards the centre4 ,then take the bar ,z and bring it flat into the slot of ,x4 ,the little slot of ,z1 however1 must remain above the slot of ,x4 ,then slide the bar ,y along to the centre1 so that the part lettered c slips into the little slot of bar ,z4 ,this may seem confusing to read1 but it is easy to follow when the pieces are in one's hand4 ,the result of this rather clever arrangement is that the six arms of ,fig4 #cge are all exactly the same length1 width1 and thickness4 ,they are also arranged so that in each arm may be clasped one piece each of ,figs4 #cgj1 #cga1 and #cgb4 ,the three central arms may1 of course1 be set up in a different order1 and here we have merely chosen the way that is the most simple to describe and illustrate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgg4--;,beginning to place on the ,cross ,pieces4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgh4--,placing the ,key ,piece to overlap end projection of ,central ,bar4 ,,second ,,stage4--,in the remaining part of the work the chief difficulty is to keep the puzzle from falling to pieces before the key finally locks it4 ,take the longer cross parts1 ,fig4 #cgj1 and clasp one to each arm4 ,the six need not all be put on meanwhile1 but only those which are most easily handled4 ,the next size 7,fig4 #cga7 may then be put on4 ,in the ordinary course each arm could be completed with its three cross pieces till the sixth was attempted1 and here the reader would find that1 at the last moment1 his attempt was frustrated4 ,he could not get the last small piece in1 as other bars lock the puzzle4 ,here it is that the key comes in4 ,,the ,,key ,,piece4--,when the writer fits up the puzzle he finds that three of the arms may straight away be fitted complete with their three cross parts4 ,these are the ones where the longer cross piece 7,fig4 #cgj7 lies flush with the back of the central bar 7see ,fig4 #cgg74 ,this is easily found out when at work on the puzzle4 ,in the case of the other three arms there is1 of course1 a gap caused by the long slots of the central bars4 ,adjust the parts on the first-named three arms1 and then deal with the fourth arm1 putting in all three cross parts4 ,for the little one here1 use the key4 ,by placing the key so that it overlaps the end projection of the arm 7see ,fig4 #cgh7 a space is left at the centre1 and means is thus afforded for getting in the three cross parts on the remaining two arms4 ,this practically ends the puzzle4 ,while the key is in its overlapping position the parts may be separated1 but if it is turned round on its narrow neck1 so that it is in exactly the same position as the other five small cross parts1 it locks the whole thing so tightly that nothing but sheer force could loosen the twenty-one pieces4 ,so far as the order of putting together is concerned1 there are many equally satisfactory ways1 these being determined by the ease or difficulty that one experiences in holding the half-finished puzzle4 ,it all comes to the same in the end1 and the key must be placed on one bar before the last three arms can be completed4 ,the key1 moreover1 must be on one of the bars where a gap is left at the centre1 and not on one where ,fig4 #cgj lies flush against the central arm as in ,fig4 #cgg4 ,,undoing ,,the ,,puzzle4--,to take the puzzle to pieces all that is required is to turn the key half round and push the other two cross bars on that arm towards the outer point4 ,the cross bars below may then be removed1 and the whole structure falls to pieces4 ,,the ,,double ,,dovetail ,,puzzle 7,fig4 #cgi7 consists of two pieces of wood 7usually one dark and the other light7 which1 upon examination1 appear to be dovetailed together from each face4 ,this interlocking arrangement is obviously impossible1 and the solution of the puzzle is only apparent on examining ,fig4 #chj1 where it will be seen that the joint fits together diagonally4 ,at ,fig4 #cha are given the diagrams for setting out4 ,draw the outline of the elevation1 plan and end view4 ,the end view in the first instance is indicated by #c1 #d1 #e and #f1 and it measures #a-g_/h ins4 square4 ,a #a-g_/h-;ins4 square is simply used because #b-;ins4 wood generally finishes this size after it is planed up4 ,set out a square 7,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d7 which stands corner-ways in the larger square 7#c1 #d1 #e1 #f74 ,project the lines ,d ,a and ,c ,b upwards as at #a1 and on to this drawing 7#a71 set out the dovetail according to your own idea of length1 width and bevel4 ,project the four points of your dovetail downwards into the end view1 and where these lines cut ,a1 ,b1 and ,d1 ,c draw them downwards and rebate them into your original plan4 ,this will give the true shape of the two dovetails and it is to this shape that you will cut your joint4 ,the joint is in due course glued up1 and next day you will plane and waste off the four corners of your model4 ,the end view shows one corner shaded ,d1 #c1 ,a2 this and the other three corners are wasted away4 ,the result is that the dovetails are thrown into a plane different from that in which they were made1 showing as ,fig4 #cgi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cgi4--;,double ,dovetail ,puzzle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chj4--,the ,two ,parts ,separated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cha4--;,elevation1 ,plan and ,end ,view1 showing how the ,puzzle ,joint may be correctly ,set ,out4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chb4--;,dovetail ,puzzle4 ,the ,finished ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chc4--,sketch of ,dovetail ,piece4 7,note that dovetail is cut on slant1 the thickness at front being less than at back4 ,see dotted line on plan below47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chd4--,plan1 looking upwards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #che;,a4--,front ,elevation4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #che;,b4--,back ,elevation4 ,the model calls for very accurate workmanship and the joints must not be undercut during the sawing and chiselling operations4 ,the completed model measures #f to #g ins4 ,,the ,,dovetail ,,puzzle joint illustrated at ,fig4 #chb has perhaps caused more argument and controversy amongst woodworkers than any wooden joint4 ,it may be neatly made in maple1 walnut1 or mahogany1 and afterwards glued up4 ,the question everyone asks is3 ,how was it put together8 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chf4--,variation of the ,dovetail ,puzzle4 ,take two pieces of wood such as mahogany1 walnut or birch1 about #f ins4 long by #a-g_/h ins4 wide and #a-a_/d ins4 thick4 ,truly plane them up and then set out and make the tenon and dovetailed piece 7,fig4 #chc74 ,next mark out and cut the cross bar to fit its corresponding piece4 ,the joint will go together in a somewhat diagonal direction as it is pushed into position from the back2 when closed it will appear as at ,fig4 #chb4 ,for guidance1 a plan1 part elevation and back elevation are added4 ,an improvement after you have gained experience in the making of this joint is to make a similar joint1 leaving the face 7,b1 ,fig4 #chf7 blind2 it then does not show the bevelling of the dovetail at the end ,c4 ,in other words1 keep the line ,c1 say1 #a_/d in4 back from the face of ,b4 ,the joint should be glued up and it will then appear to the average worker that it is an impossible proposition4 7,see ,fig4 #dja1 page #bjh47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chg4--;,a ,simple ,variation of the ,dovetail ,puzzle4 ,carefully note that the edges ,a1 ,a are parallel to each other in spite of the fact that they slope in one direction4 ,a further variation of the puzzle is seen in ,fig4 #chg4 ,here the joint is much simpler1 and can easily be followed from the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chh4--,six-piece ,joint ,puzzle4 ,,cross ,,puzzle4--,fig4 #chh illustrates a six-piece puzzle joint1 similar in some respects to ,fig4 #cfi1 but very much simpler4 ,both a back and front view of the piece ,d is shown for clearness of illustration4 ,the method of assembling the pieces is as follows3 ,hold piece ,b upright1 and fit piece ,d across2 at the same time note that the small x marks are opposite each other4 ,take piece ,e and1 holding it as shown1 slide it up the piece ,b 7see arrow7 until ,e engages ,d and the small o marks are opposite each other4 ,piece ,c is now fitted behind ,d1 and then piece ,f will slide in position and push downwards4 ,the key-piece ,a is now put in position1 and the puzzle is completed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #chi4--,mortising ,puzzle1 showing how the ,parts ,fit4 ,,mortising ,,puzzle4--,the ordinary mortising exercise is1 after the first two or three attempts1 generally voted as uninteresting1 but1 although the simple puzzle shown in ,fig4 #chi is practically an exercise in mortising1 yet1 forming as it does a puzzle1 it becomes a fascinating piece of work4 ,the puzzle is composed of three pieces of wood1 each #d ins4 long1 #a-a_/b ins4 wide1 and #a_/b in4 thick4 ,in each piece a mortise #a-a_/b ins4 by #a_/b in4 should be cut as shown at #a1 ,fig4 #cij4 ,in one piece1 marked #b1 a groove is cut on one side1 #c_/h in4 wide1 and in another piece 7#c7 a similar slot1 but #a_/b in4 wide1 is cut1 and this is continued on the other side of the groove to a depth of #a_/h in4 ,the three pieces should be set out on a #ac-;ins4 by #a-a_/b-;ins4 by #a_/b-;in4 length of wood1 as shown at ,fig4 #cia1 and when ready sawn apart4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cij4--,the ,three ,parts1 with ,sizes marked4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cia4--;,how to ,cut the ,parts4 ,the puzzle is put together as shown at ,fig4 #chi4 ,in the first place1 hold ,no4 #a piece upright as shown at ,a1 then take ,no4 #b piece with slot uppermost and push it through the opening in ,no4 #a piece until the nearest side of the slot projects #a_/h in4 as indicated at ,b4 ,next place ,no4 #c piece on with the slot at the back as shown at ,c1 and push it down until it touches the bottom of the opening in ,no4 #b piece as illustrated at ,d4 ,the only thing to do now is to push ,no4 #b piece as far as it will go to make the figure as shown at ,e4 ,in this puzzle the parts should fit together fairly tight1 but should not be too stiff4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cib4--;,chinese ,cross ,puzzle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cic4--,method of ,putting ,together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cid4--,the ,six ,pieces1 each #d ins4 by #a in4 square4 ,,chinese ,,cross4--,fig4 #cib shows a variation of the ,chinese cross1 which is perhaps the most fascinating of all woodwork puzzles4 ,take six pieces of hardwood 7,fig4 #cid7 and accurately plane and saw them so that each piece will measure #d ins4 by #a in4 by #a in4 ,bearing in mind that all the cuts are multiples of #a_/b in41 set out1 saw and chisel five of the pieces to agree with the sketches #a1 #a;,a1 #b1 #b;,a and #c4 ,leave the key piece intact4 ,the puzzle is of course to fit all the six pieces together so as to form the ,chinese cross or block given at ,fig4 #cib4 ,as a clue to the method of assembly we give another sketch 7,fig4 #cic7 showing four of the pieces fixed together4 ,the reader can1 if he so desires1 make the puzzle to a smaller scale by using six pieces of wood each measuring #b ins4 long by #a_/b in4 by #a_/b in4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cie--;,diagonal ,chinese ,cross ,puzzle4 7,two ,pieces required of ,a1 ,three of ,b and ,one of ,c47 ,,diagonal ,,chinese ,,cross4--,at ,fig4 #cie is given a sketch of a completed ,chinese block or cross puzzle in which the various pieces of wood go together diagonally4 ,plane up a piece of hardwood 7which may be about #ad ins4 or #ae ins4 long7 so that it measures on its end #a_/b in4 square4 ,cut the wood into six pieces which measure about #b-a_/d ins4 long1 and then proceed to mark out1 saw and pare up with the chisel two pieces like sketch ,a1 three pieces like ,b1 and one key piece as ,c4 ,now fit these together to make the completed cross4 ,the solution is left to the reader4 ,fig4 #cif shows a combination of six pieces which1 when fitted together1 will make the ,chinese cross similar to ,fig4 #cib4 ,plane up the strip of hardwood 7birch preferred7 so that it measures #a_/b in4 square at the end and proceed to mark out and make two pieces like ,d1 two like ,e1 one like ,f1 and one piece like ,g4 ,put the pieces together to form the ,chinese cross4 ,again the reader is left to solve the problem of fitting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cif4--;,another ,chinese ,cross4 7,two ,pieces required of ,d1 ,two of ,e1 and ,one each of ,f and ,g47 ,,square ,,puzzles are of endless variety4 ,four of these are shown1 all simple to make1 but not equally simple to solve4 ,the only material required for each is a #e-;ins4 square piece of #a_/h-;in4 fretwood or plywood2 or1 if preferred1 pieces of different colour may be used4 ,the diagrams are given exactly half size1 and the lines may be set out direct on the wood4 ,it will be noticed that all four puzzles are strictly geometrical in character4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cig4--,six-piece ,square ,puzzle4 7,for ,guidance in ,setting ,out1 the ,centre of ,top ,line is marked at ,a47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cih4--;,five-piece ,square ,puzzle4 7,in ,setting ,out1 note that the ,angles ,b ,b are ,right ,angles47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cii4--,ten-piece ,square ,puzzle4 7,for ,guidance in ,setting ,out1 the ,centre of the ,four ,outlines are lettered at ,c1 ,c1 ,c1 ,c47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #djj4--,six-piece ,square ,puzzle4 7,the ,centres of the ,four ,outlines are lettered at ,d1 ,d1 ,d1 ,d47 ,fig4 #cig is made up of six pieces and is the simplest of the group to solve4 ,although containing only five pieces1 ,fig4 #cih will be found to give more trouble4 ,fig4 #cii1 with ten pieces1 is undoubtedly the most trying puzzle1 and will be found as baffling as many jig-saw pictures4 ,fig4 #djj1 again1 presents only moderate difficulties4 ,if the reader prefers1 he may cut the squares to the size illustrated instead of enlarging them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dja4--;,blind ,dovetail ,puzzle ,joint 7see page #aii74 ,,index ,angle1 mitre1 #afc1 #afd ,angles for dovetails1 #acd ,astragals1 #abh1 #abi ,back flap hinges1 #aae1 #aaf ,barefaced 7see under ,tenon74 ,barred door joint1 #ee ,barrow-wheel joints1 #bj ,battening1 #ahh ,bevelled dovetailing1 #adi ,bevelling1 guide block for1 #afa ,birdsmouth joints1 #aha ,blind lap-dovetailing1 #ade ,boards1 weather1 #agf ,bolts for scarf joint1 #ajg1 #ajh ,boring away waste1 #da1 #db ,box1 laminated core1 #age ,box lid1 hingeing1 #aac ,boxes1 dovetails for1 #acc ,brace and bit1 use of1 #da1 #db ,brass astragal1 #abi ,bridle joint1 mitred1 #cf1 #cg ,bridle joint1 oblique1 #cg1 #ch ,bridle joints1 #ce ,bridle joints1 setting out1 #ci ,butt hinge1 #aaj1 #aaa ,butt hinge1 rising1 #aae1 #aaf ,butting mitred joint1 #h ,buttoning1 #ahd ,carcase work1 dovetailing1 #adi ,card table hinges1 #aae1 #aaf ,chair joint1 interlocking1 #ia ,chinese cross puzzle1 #bjc ,chinese cross puzzle1 diagonal1 #bjd ,chinese puzzle1 #ahi1 #aij ,chisel used in dovetailing1 #acg1 #ach1 #aec ,chiselling 7bridle joints71 #de ,chiselling 7halved joints71 #cj1 etc4 ,chiselling 7mortise and tenon joints71 #hi1 etc4 ,circular frames1 #agb ,clamping1 #hj1 #hb ,close joint hingeing1 #abe ,cogged joints1 #aha ,column joints1 #agi ,combing joint1 #ee ,core box1 laminated1 #age ,corner dovetail1 #aeb ,corner joints1 halved1 #ad ,corner tongued joints1 #ee1 #ef ,cornice frame dovetailed1 #adc1 #add ,cornice pole1 dowelling1 #ig1 #ih ,cornice pole joints1 #agg ,corrugated steel fasteners1 #ahe ,cot joints1 #agh ,countersink bit1 #if ,cradle for planing1 #eb ,cradle for planing dowels1 #id ,cramping glued joints1 #aa1 #ab ,cramping tongued and grooved mitre joint1 #ef1 #eg ,cross halving joints1 #ah1 #bc ,cross puzzle1 #bjj ,cross puzzle1 ,chinese1 #bjc ,cross puzzle1 diagonal1 #bjd ,cross tongues1 #ea1 #eb ,curved work1 joints for1 #agb ,diagonal cross puzzle1 #bjd ,dogs1 iron1 #aj1 #aa ,donkey's ear shooting board1 #cbg ,door frames1 semicircular head1 #agc1 #age ,door joints1 barred1 #ee ,doors1 bound1 #aji ,doors1 hingeing1 #aaf-aai ,doors1 shutting joints of1 #abg1 #abi ,dovetail angle template1 #acd1 #aed ,dovetail1 corner1 #aeb ,dovetail grooving1 #afj ,dovetail halved joints1 #ag1 #ai1 #bj ,dovetail1 housed and mitred1 #ade ,dovetail joint1 the #acb ,dovetail puzzles1 #aie1 #aif1 #aig1 #aih1 #aii ,dovetail1 secret mitred1 #adf ,dovetail-wedged tenon joint1 #ge ,dovetailed keys1 #adg1 #adh ,dovetailed scarf joint1 #ajc1 #ajd ,dovetailing1 bevelled1 #adi ,dovetailing1 blind lap1 #ade ,dovetailing1 lap1 #acc ,dovetailing1 oblique1 #aea ,dovetailing1 through1 #acb ,dovetails1 frame1 #adc ,dovetails1 machine made1 #aei ,dovetails1 sawing1 #ada1 #aee ,dovetails1 setting out1 #aea ,dowel cradle for planing1 #id ,dowel plate1 steel1 #ic ,dowel rounder1 #if ,dowel with groove1 #id1 #ie ,dowelling frames1 #ajj ,dowelling joints1 #ic ,dowelling table legs1 #aja ,dowels1 making1 #ic ,drawbore pinning1 #gh ,drawer bottom joint1 #ahh ,drawer joints1 dust-proof1 #aca ,drawer ploughslips1 #aj1 #aa ,drawers1 dovetailing1 #acc1 etc41 #aef ,dreadnought file1 #ha1 #hb ,drop table joint1 #bj ,dust-proof drawer joints1 #aca ,fall fronts1 hingeing1 #aai ,fasteners1 corrugated steel1 #ahe ,feather tongues1 #ea1 #eb ,fencing1 joint for1 #ga ,file1 dreadnought1 #ha1 #hb ,finger joint hinge1 #abb1 #abc ,fished joint1 #aje1 #ajf ,flap 7back7 hinges1 #aae1 #aaf ,floor boards1 #dh ,fly rails1 #abj1 #aba ,fox-wedging1 #gf ,frame dovetails1 #adc ,frame joints1 ,oxford1 #bf1 #bg ,frame1 mirror1 with bridle joints1 #cg ,frames1 circular1 #agb ,frames1 dowelling1 #ajj ,frames for oil paintings1 #ahd ,gate joint1 #fh1 #fi ,gauge1 marking1 #bh1 #bi1 #dj ,gauge1 marking dovetails with cutting1 #ace ,gauging boards for dowelling1 #ig1 #ih ,gauging for hinges1 #aaj1 #aaa ,glued joint1 the1 #a ,glueing dowelled joints1 #ig ,glueing rubbed joints1 #b ,grooved joints 7see ,tongued and ,grooved71 #dh ,grooves1 ploughing1 #eh ,grooving1 dovetail1 #afj ,halved and dovetailed joints1 #ag1 #ai1 #bj ,halved and mitred joints1 #af ,halved joint1 the1 #ac ,halved joints1 setting out1 #bh ,halved scarf joint1 #ajc1 #ajd ,halving joints1 cross1 #ah1 #bc ,hammer head tenons1 #hj ,handscrews1 #aa1 #ab ,haunched tenons1 #fe ,hinge1 butt1 #aaj1 #aaa ,hinge1 finger joint1 #abb1 #abc ,hinge1 knuckle joint1 #abb1 #abc ,hinge recesses1 #aab ,hinge1 rule joint1 #abe ,hinged cornice pole1 #agg ,hinged joints1 #aji ,hingeing box lid1 #aac ,hingeing1 close joint1 #abe ,hingeing doors1 #aaf-aai ,hingeing draught screens1 #aba ,hingeing fall fronts1 #aai ,hingeing1 open joint1 #abd ,hinges1 gauging for1 #aaj1 #aaa ,hinges1 various1 #aaj1 #aad1 #aae1 #aaf ,hook joints1 #acj ,housed and mitred dovetail1 #ade ,interlocking chair joint1 #ia ,iron dogs1 #aj1 #aa ,japanese self-wedging tenon joint1 #gb ,joint1 drawer bottom1 #ahh ,joint1 fished1 #aje1 #ajf ,joint1 interlocking chair1 #ia ,joint1 tabled scarf1 #ajg ,joint1 tie beam scarf1 #ajf ,joints1 barefaced tenon1 #fd barred door1 #ee barrow wheel1 #bj battened1 #ahh birdsmouth1 #aha bridle1 #ce butting mitred1 #h cogged1 #aha column and pillar1 #agi combing or locking1 #ee cornice pole1 #agg cot1 #agh cross halving1 #ah1 #bc dovetail1 #acb dovetailed and wedged tenon1 #ge dowelling1 #ic dust-proof drawer1 #aca fencing1 #ga for curved work1 #agb garden gate1 #fh1 #fi glued1 #a halved1 #ac halved and dovetailed1 #ag1 #ai1 #bj haunched tenon1 #fe hinged1 #aji hook1 #acj ladder1 #agg laminated1 #aj1 #aa1 #agb1 #age lap1 #ac light-tight1 #aca meeting1 #abi miscellaneous1 #agf mitre-faced tenon1 #gg mitre bridle1 #cf1 #cg mitre halved1 #af mitred1 #afc mitred and tenoned1 #gb1 #gc mitred and tongued1 #ef1 #eg mortise and tenon1 #fd notched1 #ahj oblique bridle1 #cg1 #ch oblique halved1 #ae1 #bc ogee-shaped1 #h open slot mortise1 #hj partition1 #bd1 #be ploughing for tongued and grooved1 #eh puzzle1 #ahi rafter and tie beam1 #ahb rafter 7tenon71 #gg rebated door1 #abi roof1 #cd1 #cg1 #ch roof 7tenon71 #gg rubbed1 #a saddle1 #ahj sash bar1 #gi scarf1 #ajc screen1 #aad1 #aba scribed and tenoned1 #gb setting out bridle1 #ci setting out halved1 #bh setting out tenon1 #hc shouldered tenon1 #gj1 #ga1 #gi shutting1 #abg skirting and muntin1 #agh ,t1 #ad1 #ah tie1 #bb1 #bc tongued and grooved1 #dh tongued corner1 #ee1 #ef trestle1 #bd tusk tenon1 #gd1 #ge weather board1 #agf wheelwright's self-wedging tenon1 #ge ,keyhole screwing1 #ahg ,keying1 dovetail1 #adg ,keying1 veneer1 #agh ,keys1 dovetailed1 #adg ,knuckle joint hinge1 #abb1 #abc ,ladder joints1 #agg ,laminated joints1 #aj1 #aa ,lamination1 #age ,lap dovetailing1 #acc ,lap dovetailing1 blind1 #ade ,lap joints1 #ac ,laths1 winding1 #c ,lid1 hingeing box1 #aac ,light-tight joints1 #aca ,locking 7inter7 chair joint1 #ia ,locking joint1 #ee ,marking gauge1 #bh1 #bi1 #dj ,matchboarding1 #di ,meeting joints1 #abi ,mirror frame with bridle joints1 #cg ,mitre box1 saw used in1 #aga ,mitre bridle joint1 #cf1 #cg ,mitre1 curved1 #afc1 #afd1 #afh1 #afi ,mitre faced tenon joint1 #gg ,mitre halved joints1 #af ,mitre sawing block1 #afe ,mitre1 setting out a curved1 #afh1 #afi ,mitre template1 #agj ,mitre trap1 screw1 #afe1 #aff ,mitred and housed dovetail1 #ade ,mitred and tenoned joint1 #gb1 #gc ,mitred butting joint1 #h ,mitred dovetail1 secret1 #adf ,mitred frames1 dowelling1 #ii1 #ajj ,mitred joint1 the1 #afc ,mitred tongued joints1 #ef1 #eg ,mitres1 curved1 #afi ,mortise and tenon joints1 #fd ,mortise1 open slot1 #hj ,mortising1 #hg ,mortising puzzle1 #bja ,mouldings1 mitreing1 #afe1 #aga ,muntin joint1 #agh ,notched joints1 #ahj ,oblique bridle joint1 #cg1 #ch ,oblique dovetailing1 #aea ,oblique joints1 halved1 #ae1 #bc ,ogee-shaped joint1 #h ,open-joint hingeing1 #abd ,open slot mortise1 #hj ,oxford frame1 halved joints for1 #bf1 #bg ,partition joints1 #bd1 #be ,patera covers1 #ahc ,pelleting1 #ahb ,piano front joint1 #i1 #aa ,pinning1 #gc ,pinning1 drawbore1 #gh ,pins1 dovetail1 #acf ,pivot hinges1 #aad1 #aae1 #aaf ,plane1 old woman's tooth1 #afa1 #afb ,plane1 the plough1 #eh1 #ei1 #fj ,planes1 tongueing and grooving1 #fa ,planing1 cradle for1 #eb ,planing mitred work1 #afe ,plinth frame dovetailed1 #adc1 #add ,plough plane1 the1 #eh1 #ei1 #fj ,ploughing for tongued and grooved joints1 #eh ,ploughslips1 glueing1 #aj1 #aa ,plugging1 #ahf ,pole joints1 cornice1 #agg ,puzzle1 ,chinese cross1 #bjc ,puzzle1 cross1 #bjj ,puzzle1 diagonal ,chinese cross1 #bjd ,puzzle joints1 #ahi ,puzzle1 mortising1 #bja ,puzzles1 dovetail1 #aie1 #aif1 #aig1 #aih1 #aii1 #bjh ,puzzles1 square1 #bje ,rafter and tie beam joints1 #ahb ,rafter joint 7tenon71 #gg ,rebated door joints1 #abi ,reversible screen hinge1 #aad1 #aae ,rising butt hinge1 #aae1 #aaf ,roof joints1 #cd1 #cg1 #ch ,roof joints 7tenon71 #gg ,roof work1 scarfed joints used in1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #ajf ,rubbed joint1 #a ,rule joint hinge1 #abe ,saddle joints1 #ahj ,sash bar joints1 #gi ,sawing block for mitreing1 #afe ,sawing 7bridle joints71 #da1 etc4 ,sawing dovetails1 #ada1 #aee ,sawing for hinge recesses1 #aab ,sawing 7halved joints71 #cj1 #ca1 etc4 ,sawing 7tenons71 #hd1 etc4 ,scarf joint1 fished1 #aje1 #ajf ,scarf joint for heavy timber1 lapped and bolted1 #ajg1 #ajh ,scarf joint1 tabled1 with straps1 #ajg ,scarf joints1 #ajc ,scarf joints1 tie beam1 #ajf ,screen hinges1 #aad1 #aae1 #aaf ,screens1 hingeing draught1 #aba ,screwing1 slot or keyhole1 #ahg ,screws1 hiding with pateras1 #ahc ,scribed tenon joint1 #gb ,secret mitred dovetail1 #adf ,setting out dovetails1 #aea ,shooting board1 #g1 #aj1 #aa ,shooting board for mitreing1 #afe1 #aff1 #afg ,shoulders1 #ad1 etc41 #ai1 #bc ,shoulders of tenons1 tongueing1 #fc ,shoulders1 sawing1 #de ,shoulders 7tenon71 #gj1 #ga1 #gi ,shoulders1 tenon with tongued and grooved1 #gi ,shutting joints1 #abg ,sideboard pillar joints1 #agi ,skirting and muntin joint1 #agh ,skirting1 mitred1 #afc ,skirting mould1 double1 #ef1 #eh ,slot screwing1 #ahg ,spandrel1 jointing shaped1 #i1 #aa ,spandrel with tongued joint1 #eb1 #ec ,sprocket wheel1 #fh ,square puzzles1 #bje ,steel fasteners1 corrugated1 #ahe ,stiles1 shutting and meeting1 #abh ,stopped bridle joint1 #cg1 #ch ,stopped dovetail halving1 #ag ,strap hinge1 #aad1 #aae ,straps for scarf joints1 #ajg1 #ajh ,stump tenons1 #fe ,t joints1 halved1 #ad1 #ah ,table 7card7 hinges1 #aae1 #aaf ,table frame1 laminated1 #agd1 #age ,table framing1 #gi ,table joint1 drop1 #bj ,table leg with bridle joint1 #cf ,table legs1 dowelled1 #aja ,table tops buttoned1 #ahd ,table with circular rim1 joint for1 #be ,tabled scarf joint1 #ajg ,template1 dovetail angle1 #acd1 #aed ,template for mitreing1 #agj ,tenon 7and mortise7 joints1 #fd ,tenon joint1 dovetailed and wedged1 #ge ,tenon joint1 mitred and moulded1 #gb1 #gc ,tenon joint1 scribed1 #gb ,tenon joint1 self-wedging1 #gb ,tenon joint with mitred face1 #gg ,tenon joint with tongued and grooved shoulders1 #gi ,tenon joints1 barefaced1 #fd ,tenon joints1 drawbore pinning for1 #gh ,tenon joints1 setting out1 #hc ,tenon joints1 shouldered1 #gj1 #ga1 #gi ,tenon joints1 tusk1 #gd1 #ge ,tenoned scarf joint1 #ajc1 #aje ,tenons1 hammer head1 #hj ,tenons1 haunched1 #fe ,tenons1 inserted1 #ha1 #hb ,tenons1 stump or stub1 #fe ,tenons1 tongueing shoulders of1 #fc ,tenons1 twin1 #gb1 #gc1 #hj ,through dovetailing1 #acb ,tie beam and rafter joints1 #ahb ,tie beam scarf joint1 #ajf ,tie joint1 #bb1 #bc ,tongue slips1 #acj ,tongued and grooved joints1 applications of1 #eb ,tongued and grooved joints1 #dh ,tongued and grooved joints1 ploughing for1 #eh ,tongued joints1 corner1 #ee1 #ef ,tongueing and grooving planes1 #fa ,tongues1 cross and feather1 #ea1 #eb ,tongues1 loose1 #ee ,toothing plane1 #afa1 #afb ,trestle joint1 #bd ,try square1 #i1 #bh ,tusk tenon joints1 #gd1 #ge ,twin tenons1 #gb1 #gc1 #hj ,twist bit1 #if ,vee'd matchboarding1 #di1 #ej ,vee'd scarf joint1 #aje ,veneer keying1 #agh ,wall plugs1 #ahf ,weatherboards1 #agf ,wedges for tenon joints1 #fg ,wedging1 fox1 #gf ,wedging frames1 #ahd ,wheel joints1 barrow1 #bj ,wheel1 sprocket1 #fh ,wheelwright's self-wedging tenon joint1 #ge ,winding laths1 #c ,,printed ,,in ,,great ,,britain ,,by ,,the ,,whitefriars ,,press1 ,,ltd41 ,,london ,,and ,,tonbridge4 ,,the ,,woodworker ,,series ,,woodwork ,,joints3 ,,how ,,made ,,and ,,where ,,used 7,revised ,edition74 ,with #djj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,cabinet ,,construction 7,revised ,edition74 ,with #be ,plates1 over #cjj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,carpentry ,,for ,,beginners4 ,with over #cjj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,practical ,,upholstery4 ,with over #ajj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,staining ,,and ,,polishing 7,revised ,edition74 ,illustrated1 and with ,appendix of ,recipes and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,furniture ,,repairing ,,and ,,re-,,upholstery4 ,with #age ,illustrations1 #cj ,photographic ,plates and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,wood ,,turning4 ,fully ,illustrated 7with enlarged details7 and with ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,wood ,,carving4 ,with over #bjj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,period ,,furniture4 #bjj ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,household ,,repairs ,,and ,,renovations 7,revised ,edition74 ,illustrated4 #c_/f net4 ,,timbers ,,for ,,woodwork4 ,illustrated1 with ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,woodwork ,,tools1 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,use ,,them 7,revised ,edition74 ,with #bge ,illustrations and ,index4 #c_/f net4 ,,furniture ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,dining ,,room ,,furniture ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #b_/f net4 ,,bedroom ,,furniture ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,modern ,,bedroom ,,suite ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #b_/f net4 ,,living-,,room ,,furniture ,,designs4 #bd ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,cabinet ,,designs 7,new ,series74 ,over #ej ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,table ,,designs4 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,bureau ,,and ,,bookcase ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #b_/f net4 ,,light ,,carpentry ,,designs 7,new ,series74 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,toy ,,and ,,model ,,designs4 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,outdoor ,,woodwork ,,designs4 #df pages of ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,door ,,making4 ,fully ,illustrated1 and with a series of ,special ,designs4 #b_/f net4 ,,the ,,woodworker4 #f;d4 monthly4 ,free specimen sent on application4 ,,evans ,,brothers ,,limited1 ,,montague ,,house4 ,,russell ,,square1 ,,london1 ,w4,c4#a ,,the ,,woodworker ,,monthly3 ,,price ,,sixpence ,a ,free ,specimen ,copy sent on receipt of postcard ,in this ,magazine the man who does bench work at home will find month by month the precise guidance he needs for efficient1 economical work4 ,the principal features include practical directions1 illustrated by working drawings1 for the construction of plain and ornamental furniture and all kinds of indoor and outdoor woodwork4 ,joint making1 tool manipulation1 staining and polishing1 repairing1 craft problems and everyday difficulties are also regular features dealt with in an eminently practical way4 ,the contributors to ,,the ,,woodworker are expert craftsmen who know exactly where the home woodworker's difficulties lie1 and who1 from long experience1 are able to impart their knowledge to others4 ,if you have not yet seen ,,the ,,woodworker1 send a postcard for a specimen copy4 ,,published ,,monthly ,,price ,,sixpence 7,free ,specimen ,copy sent on receipt of postcard7 ,,the ,,woodworker ,,annual ,,volume1 #cgj pages1 #fs4 #f;d4 net ,from any newsagent or direct from ,evans ,bros41 ,ltd41 ,montague ,house1 ,russell ,square1 ,london1 ,w4,c4#a