,,html v]sion ( ?is book because x      
includes almo/ #bjj       illu/rations  
:i* _c be incorporat$ 9 ?is text        
v]sion4       ,see #bjchf-;h4htm or     
#bjchf-;h4zip3                          
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#b_/j_
/c_/j_/bjchf_/bjchf-;h_/#bjchf-;h4htm7  
or                                      
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#b_/j_
/c_/j_/bjchf_/bjchf-;h4zip7             
,fl[]s1 ,plants & ,fi%es1 ,birds1       
,bea/s1 ,flyes1 & ,bees1     ,hils1     
,dales1 ,pla9es1 ,pa/ures1 ,skies1      
,seas1 ,riv]s1 ,trees1     ,!re's no?+  
ne]e at h&1 or f>!/ s\ght1     ,b ) !   
ne$le may be %ap'd & wr\ght4            
--,,john ,,taylor 7,! ,praise ( !       
,ne$le74   ,! ,arti/ic ,crafts ,s]ies ( 
,te*nical ,h&books ,edit$ by ,w4 ,r4    
,le?aby  ,,embroid]y ,,& ,,tape/ry      
,,weav+  ,a ,practical ,text-,book (    
,design & ,workman%ip  by  ,,mrs4       
,,ar*ibald ,h4 ,,*ri/ie  ,) ,draw+s by !
 ,au?or & ,o!r ,illu/rations  ,second   
,edition ,revis$ 7,a repr9t ( ! ,fir/   

,edition1 ) v>i\s slight alt]ations 9   
text7  ,?ird ,edition ,revis$ 7,a repr9t
 ( ! ,second ,edition7        ,publi%$  
by ,john ,hogg #ac ,pat]no/] ,r[ ,london
 #aiab    ,illu/ration3 ,frontispiece   
,see page #bdi4    ,pr9t$ by            
,ballantyne1 ,hanson  ,co4 at !         
,ballantyne ,press1 ,ed9burgh           
,,editor',s ,,preface   ,ne$lework1 :i* 
is /ill practis$ traditionally 9 e h\se1
 0 once a spl5did art1 an art 9 :i*     
,engli% work]s 7 especially fam\s1 s t1 
e>ly 9 ! ,x,i,i,ith c5tury1 ve/m5ts     
embroid]$ 9 ,engl& 7 eag]ly accept$ 9   
,rome1 & ! k9d ( "w wr\ght "h 0 kn[n ov]
 ,europe z ,engli% ,"w4 ,embroid]ies    
facon d',anglet]re (t5 occupy ! fir/    
place 9 =eign inv5tories4  ,at ,durham  
are pres]v$ "s beautiful fragm5ts (     
embroid]y work$ 9 ! ,x? c5tury1 & _m    
examples1 belong+ to ! great p]iod ( !  
,x,i,i,ith & ,x,i,vth c5turies1 are     
pres]v$ at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 :i* 
is p>ticul>ly ri* 9 specim5s ( ?is art4 
,9 ord] to judge ( :at 7 !n its         

possibilities x is wor? :ile to g & see 
!re ?ree notable copes1 ! blue cope1 !  
,sion cope1 & ! rose-col\r ,jesse-tree  
cope1 ! la/ two ( :i* are c]ta9ly       
,engli%1 & ! =m] probably s4 ,! ,sion   
cope be>s a remnant ( an inscription :i*
 has un=tunately be5 cut d[n & o!rwise  
injur$1 s t all t ,i h be5 able to read 
is z foll[s3 ,,davn ,,p]s 3 ,,de 3 ,v   
4442 probably ! "n ( ! donor4  ,9 !     
,x,i,i,ith c5tury ! craft ( embroid]y 0 
practis$ bo? by m5 & wom54  ,t great art
 patron1 ,h5ry ! ,?ird1 *iefly employ$ =
 8 embroid]ies1 says ,mr4 ,hudson       
,turn]1 a c]ta9 ,mabel ( ,bury ,/4      
,edmund's1 ^: skill z an embroid]ess    
seems to h be5 rem>kable1 & _m int]e/+  
records ( h] curi\s p]=mances might be  
collect$4 ,& ,i h f\nd a record ( an    
embroid]$ *asuble made = ! k+ by        
,mabilia ( ,/4 ,edmund's 9 #abdb4 ,! mo/
 spl5did piece ( embroid]y produc$ = ?is
 k+ mu/ h be5 ! alt> frontal ( ,we/m9/] 
,abbey1 complet$ ab\t #abfi4 ,x 0 silk1 
g>ni%$ ) pe>ls1 jewels1 & transluc5t    

enamels4 ,f\r embroid]esses work$ on x =
 ?ree ye>s & ?ree-qu>t]s1 & x seems to h
 co/ a sum equal to ab\t ,l#cjjj ( our  
money4  ,! ,london ,brod]]s did n       
receive a =mal *>t] ( incorporation     
until #aefa1 b !y mu/ h be5 a prop]ly   
organis$ craft c5turies be=e4 ,9 #b     
,h5ry ,,iv4 x 0 report$ to ,p>liam5t t  
div]s p]sons ( ! ,craft ( ,braud]ie made
 unfit "w ( inf]ior mat]ials1 evad+ !   
se>* ( ! ,w>d5s ( ,braud]ie 9 ! said    
,city ( ,london4  ,9 ,p>is1 9 ! ye>     
#abie1 !re 7 n9ety-?ree embroid]]s &    
embroid]esses regi/]$ z belong+ to !    
trade4 ,! t]m ( appr5tice%ip to ! craft 
0 = eight ye>s1 & no employ] might take 
m ?an "o appr5tice at a "t4 ,9 !        
,x,v,ith c5tury ! ,guild 0 at ! height (
 its p[]1 & embroid]ies 7 s mu* 9 dem& t
 ! ,j>d9 des ,plantes 9 ,p>is 0 e/abli%$
 to furni% fl[]-subjects = embroid]y    
design4 ,x 0 f\nd$ by ! g>d5]1 ,jean    
,rob91 & by ,pi]re ,vallet1 brodeur to  
,h5ry ,,iv4 ,9 ! ,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury !  
company numb]$ #bej pa/-ma/]s4  ,to ?is 

craft ! pres5t volume =ms1 ,i believe1  
an admirable introduction & text-book1 n
 only on ! side ( workman%ip1 b also on 
t difficult subject1 design--difficult1 
t is1 f its hav+ be5 s mu* discuss$ 9   
books1 yet entirely simple :5 approa*$1 
z "h1 z a necess>y "p ( workman%ip4 ,x  
is =tunate t we h n z yet le>n$ to bo!r 
our cooks z to :i* "p ( _! "w is design+
 & :i* is m]ely me*anical4 ,( c\rse !   
highe/ ?+s ( design1 z well z (         
workman%ip1 come only aft] long practice
 & to ! specially gift$1 b none ! less e
 human creature mu/ 9 "s sort be a      
design]1 & x has caus$ imm5se h>m to    
raise a cl\d ( :at ,morris call$ %am    
te*nical twaddle betwe5 ! work] & :at   
%\ld be ! spontane\s inspiration ( 8 "w4
 ,:at su* comb9ation has produc$ 9 pa/  
times1 may p]haps be/ be und]/ood by "s 
read+ 9 old *ur* inv5tories ( ! simply  
inf9ite /ore ( magnific5t embroid]$     
ve/m5ts :i* once adorn$ our *ur*es4 ,9  
an inv5tory ( ,we/m9/] ,abbey ,i f9d    
m5tion$ su* patt]ns z roses & birds1    

fleur-de-luces & lyb>des1 angels on     
bran*es ( gold1 roses & %ips1 eagles &  
angels ( gold1 ca/les & lions1 :ite     
h>ts1 swans1 dogs1 & antelopes4  ,w4 ,r4
 ,,le?aby4  ,septemb] #aijf4            
,,au?or',s ,,preface   ,9 ! foll[+ pages
 ! practical sides ( ,embroid]y &       
,tape/ry ,weav+ are discuss$1 _!        
hi/orical developm5t be+ only           
incid5tally t\*$ ^u4  ,! draw+s         
illu/rat+ design & ! practical          
application ( /it*es h be5 tak5 almo/   
)\t exception f actual ,embroid]y or    
,tape/ry2 ! exceptions1 :]e x has be5   
impossible to consult orig9als1 f       
photographic repres5tations obta9$ f    
v>i\s s\rces1 among :i* ! collection (  
,m4 ,l\is de ,f>cy %\ld be m5tion$4  ,i 
h to ?ank ,miss ,may ,morris & ,mrs4 ,w4
 ,r4 ,le?aby = p]mission to reproduce   
pieces ( _! "w1 & ,miss ,killick1       
,colonel ,j4 ,e4 ,butl]-,b[don1 !       
,visc\nt ,falkl&1 & ! ,rev]5d ,f4 ,j4   
,br[n ( ,/eeple ,a/on = p]mission to    
reproduce "w 9 _! possession4 ,also ,i  

mu/ ?ank ! au?orities ( ! ,victoria &   
,alb]t ,museum = help 9 v>i\s ways1 &   
,mr4 ,j4 ,h4 ,taylor1 ,m4,a4 ,oxf4 &    
,cam41 = 8 k9dness 9 read+ ! pro(s4     
,,grace ,,*ri/ie4  ,ewell1 ,septemb]    
#aijf4     ,,cont5ts                    
,,page ,,editor',s ,,preface            
xi  ,,au?or',s ,,preface                
xvii   ,,"p ,i  ,,embroid]y   ,,*apt] ,i
  ,,introduction                        
#bg   ,,*apt] ,,ii  ,,tools1            
,,appliances1 ,,& ,,mat]ials            
,ne$les--,scissors--,?imbles--,frames--,
/& & ,frame comb9$--,tamb\r             
,frame--,cord-mak+                      
,appliance--,requisites = ,transf]r+    
,patt]ns--,prick]--,knife--,sp9dle--,pi]
c]--,mat]ials suitable = ,embroid]+     
^u--,?reads ( all ,k9ds--,/ones1 ,beads1
 c4           #cd   ,,*apt] ,,iii       
,,patt]n ,,design+  ,! ,difficulties (  
,patt]n ,mak+--,a ,/ock-9-,trade--,"s   
,pr9ciples ^u :i* ,patt]ns are ,built   
,up--,spac+-,out--,nature &             
,conv5tion--,%ad+--,figure              

,"w--,limitations--,col\r               
#ea   ,,*apt] ,,iv  ,,/it*es            
,introduction--,*a9 ,/it*--,zigzag      
,*a9--,*equ]$ ,*a9--,twi/$ ,*a9--,op5   
,*a9--,braid ,/it*--,cable ,*a9--,knott$
 ,*a9--,split ,/it*                     
#ge   ,,*apt] ,v  ,,/it*es--7cont9u$7   
,sat9 ,/it*--,long & ,%ort ,/it*--,/em  
,/it*--,ov]ca/ ,/it*--,back             
,/it*--,buttonhole ,/it*--,tailor's     
,buttonhole--,fancy ,buttonhole         
,edg+s--,fl[] 9 ,op5 ,buttonhole        
,/it*--,leaf 9 ,close ,buttonhole       
,/it*es--,petal 9 ,solid ,buttonhol+    
#ie   ,,*apt] ,,vi  ,,/it*es--7cont9u$7 
,knots & ,knot ,/it*es--,h]r+-bone      
,/it*--,fea!r ,/it*--,basket            
,/it*--,fi%bone ,/it*--,cretan          
,/it*--,r\manian ,/it*--,v>i\s ,ins]tion
 ,/it*es--,picots                       
#aah   ,,*apt] ,,vii  ,,canvas ,,"w ,,& 
,,/it*es                                
,introduction--,sampl]s--,petit ,po9t   
,pictures--,cross ,/it*--,t5t           
,/it*--,gobel9 ,/it*--,iri%             

,/it*--,plait ,/it*--,two-sid$ ,italian 
,/it*--,holbe9 ,/it*--,rococo ,/it*     
#adg   ,,*apt] ,,viii  ,,me?ods ,,( ,,"w
  ,c\*+--,braid ,"w--,laid ,"w--,appli$ 
,"w--,inlaid ,"w--,pat* ,"w             
#afd   ,,*apt] ,,ix  ,,me?ods ,,(       
,,"w--7cont9u$7  ,quilt+--,rais$        
,"w--,d>n+--,op5 ,fill+s--,d>n$ ,nett+  
#ahi   ,,*apt] ,x  ,me?ods (            
"w--7cont9u$7  ,drawn ,?read ,"w--,hem  
,/it*+--,simple ,bord] ,patt]ns--,d>n$  
,?read ,patt]ns--,corn]s--,cut or ,op5  
,"w--,v>i\s ,me?ods ( ,refill+ ! ,op5   
,spaces                                 
#bac   ,,*apt] ,,xi  ,,embroid]y ,,)    
,,gold ,,& ,,silv] ,,?reads             
,introduction--,mat]ials--,precautions =
 ! ,prev5tion ( ,t>ni%--,anci5t ,me?od (
 ,c\*+--,its v>i\s ,good                
,po9ts--,description ( ,work+           
,diagram--,work+ a ,rais$ ,b>--,examples
 ( ,patt]ns ,employ$ 9 ,old             
,"w--,illu/rations ^u ,drap$            
,figures--,usual ,me?od ( ,c\*+--,c\*+  
,patt]ns--,outl9e ,"w--,rais$ ,"w--,!   

,use ( ,purls1 ,bullions1 c4            
#bbi   ,,*apt] ,,xii  ,,lett]+1         
,,h]aldry1 ,,& ,,emblems  ,! ,uses (    
,lett]+--,m>k+--,monograms--,h]aldry--,e
mblems         #bei   ,,*apt] ,,xiii    
,,! ,,g>niture ,,( ,,"w  ,f9i%+         
(f--,mak+ up--,edges--,use ( ,cord-mak+ 
,appliance--,cord ,twi/$ by ,h&--,knott$
 ,cord--,fr+es--,tassels--,knots        
#bga   ,,*apt] ,,xiv  ,,practical       
,,directions  ,transf]r+ ,patt]ns--,pa/e
 = ,embroid]y ,purposes--,protection &  
,pres]vation ( ,"w--,wa%+               
,embroid]y--,prev5tion & ,cure ( ,puck]$
 ,"w--,po9ts ab\t ! ,?read--,dress+ !   
,frame           #bib   ,,"p ,,ii       
,,tape/ry ,,weav+   ,,*apt] ,,xv        
,,introduction                          
#cjg   ,,*apt] ,,xvi  ,,necess>y        
,,appliances ,,& ,,mat]ials  ,!         
,loom--,mirror--,bobb9s & ,ne$les--,!   
,comb--,embroid]y ,frame treat$ z a     
,loom--,w>p--,wools--,silk--,gold &     
,silv] ,?read         #cae   ,,*apt]    
,,xvii  ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,"w  ,w>p+ ! 

,loom--,dress+ ! ,coat-,/ave--,trac+ !  
,patt]n ^u ! ,?reads                    
#cbh   ,,*apt] ,,xviii  ,,! ,,te*nique  
,,( ,,weav+  ,weav+--,comm5c+ & ,fa/5+  
,(f--,! ,int]lock+ ,/it*--,f9e          
,draw+--,%ad+--,add$ ,aft]-/it*es       
#cci   ,,notes ,,on ,,! ,,collotype     
,,plates                                
#cee  ,,! ,,collotype ,,plates          
#cfi  ,,index                           
#djb     ,,"p ,i--,,embroid]y           
,,*apt] ,i  ,,introduction   ,9 !       
practice ( embroid]y ! ne$lewoman has an
 advantage n n[ %>$ by work]s 9 any o!r 
craft1 9 t ! te*nical processes are     
almo/ a matt] ( inh]it$ skill4 ,e woman 
c sew1 & x is ) little m ?an ! ne$le &  
?read1 :i* %e habitually employs1 t !   
greate/ ma/]pieces ( ! art h be5 /it*$4 
,! art ( embroid]y1 h[ev]1 is n m]ely an
 affair ( /it*es2 !y are b ! means by   
:i* ideas c be express$ 9 intelligible  
=m1 & memories ( all k9ds ( ?+s be      
pictur$ on /uffs4  ,to labori\sly tra9 !
 h& is sc>cely wor? :ile unless x is    

capable ( express+ some?+ t is at lea/  
pretty4 ,n[adays mu* embroid]y is done )
 ! evid5t int5t ( putt+ into x ! m9imum 
exp5diture ( bo? ?\ght & lab\r1 & su* "w
 furni%es b a poor ideal to fire !      
en?usiasm ( ! novice2 happily1 !re /ill 
exi/ _m f9e examples %[+ :at spl5did    
results may be a*iev$2 )\t "s k ( ?is "w
 we _c obta9 a j idea ( ! possibilities 
( ! art4  ,x is obvi\s t mu* advantage c
 be ga9$ f /udy+ ! accumulat$ exp]i5ce (
 ! pa/ 9 addition to t curr5t 9 our own 
day4 ,to d ?is intellig5tly1 ! hi/ory ( 
embroid]y mu/ be foll[$ 9 ord] t !      
p]iods ri*e/ 9 ! v>i\s k9ds ( "w may be 
asc]ta9$4 ,museums af=d useful          
hunt+-gr\nds = ! /udy ( pa/ "w2 o!r     
s\rces are private collections1 *ur*es1 
co/ume 9 pictures or on engrav$ brasses1
 & manuscript inv5tories su* z ^? (     
ca!dral treasuries1 :i* sometimes conta9
 int]e/+ detail$ descriptions ( _!      
embroid]$ ve/m5ts & hang+s4  ,bl9d copy+
 ( old "w is n ( mu* value2 x is n      
possible or desirable to imitate        

,x,i,i,ith c5tury "w n[1 b mu* c be     
le>n$ by exam9+ f9e examples 9 an       
appreciative & analytical _s4 ,9 :at way
 ! design has be5 built up c be         
discov]$2 ! mo/ complicat$ result may   
(t5 be resolv$ into q elem5t>y l9es4 ,! 
/ud5t mu/ f9d out :]e9 lie ! attraction 
& int]e/1 note good s*emes ( col\r1 &   
le>n ab\t /it*es & me?ods ( "w by close 
exam9ation ( ! embroid]y1 bo? front &   
back4  ,e "o kn[s :at embroid]y is1 & a 
=mal def9ition seems unnecess>y4 ,z a   
matt] ( fact1 x w\ld be a difficult task
 to give "o1 s9ce weav+1 lace-mak+1 &   
embroid]y are b subtle v>iations ( !    
same art4  ,?is art may be ( ! highe/ or
 ! mo/ homely "*1 & ! latt] is by no    
means to be despis$4 ,simple unaffect$  
"w decorat+ ! ?+s ( e-day use c give a  
great deal ( pleasure 9 its way4 ,?is   
%\ld surely be ! accompli%m5t ( e woman1
 = ?\gh %e may n h ! skill to atta9 to !
 highe/ bran*es1 x w\ld at lea/ enable  
h] to decorate h] home ) su* ?+s z !    
c\nt]panes1 curta9s1 & o!r objects t set

 su* a p]sonal /amp ^u ! ,engli% dome/ic
 "w ( sev]al c5turies1 & :i* n[adays c  
h>dly be f\nd except /or$ up 9 museums4 
,x is advisable z a g5]al rule t !      
design be bo? made & c>ri$ out by ! same
 p]son4 ,f ! work]'s own po9t ( view !  
int]e/ mu/ be mu* great] :5 work+ out h]
 own ideas ?an :5 m]ely act+ z amanu5sis
 to ano!r4 ,! idea is m likely to be    
express$ ) _s2 fur!r !re is !           
possibility ( add+ to or alt]+1 & !reby 
improv+1 ! "w z x progresses4 ,! design]
 mu/ 9 any case be well acqua9t$ )      
/it*es & mat]ials1 = !y play an         
important "p 9 a*iev+ good results4 ,!  
individuality ( ! work] %\ld be evid5t 9
 h] "w2 inde$ x g5]ally is1 = ev5 pla9  
hems by two p be> q diff]5t *>act]s2 !  
degree ( individuality pres5t1 v>ies )  
ea* "o1 b 9 any case x w be mu* m m>k$  
if ! design & /it*+ be> ! /amp ( ! same 
p]sonality4  ,! diff]5ce betwe5 good &  
unsatisfactory results %\ld be c>efully 
?\ght out1 = x is (t5 b a small matt]4  
,! be/ k9d ( "w is t :i* appeals to !   

intellig5ce z well z to ! eye1 :i* is   
ano!r way ( say+ !re %\ld be evid5ce (  
m9d ^u ! mat]ial4 ,"w mu/ be int]e/+ 9  
"s way if x is to be attractive2 x _h   
bett] almo/ be faulty & int]e/+ ?an     
dull1 dry1 & correct4 ,x c int]e/ by    
rem9d+ u ( pleasant ?+s1 su* z famili>  
fl[]s1 %ady woods1 or gre5 lawns2 birds1
 bea/s1 & s =? c be depict$ 9 _!        
*>act]i/ic attitudes1 or a /ory c be    
told2 9 fact1 "w c be made attractive 9 
a hundr$ diff]5t ways4 ,x mu/ n %[ signs
 ( hav+ we>i$ ! work] 9 ! do+2 v>iety & 
evid5ce ( ?\ght lavi%ly exp5d$ ^u x w   
prev5t ?is1 & en?usiasm w quick5 x )    
life4  ,! selection ( ! object to "w    
comes at an e>ly /age1 & is a matt] to  
be well consid]$1 = x is a pity to sp5d 
"t & lab\r ^u unsuitable objects :5 !re 
are _m excell5t ones to *oose f4 ,9 ?9k+
 ov] :at to "w x %\ld be realis$ t x    
takes no long] to execute "o r important
 piece ?an sev]al ( a less ambiti\s "*1 
& t ! =m] is g5]ally m wor? ! do+4 ,:e!r
 ! subject is a suitable "o = embroid]y 

or n sometimes dep5ds ^u ! me?od *os5 = 
c>ry+ x out2 = in/ance1 any?+ t has to  
endure h>d we> mu/ be treat$ 9 su* a way
 z to /& x well4  ,dress is a f9e       
subject = embroid]y2 b1 = ! decoration  
to be satisfactory1 ! art ( design+     
dress mu/ be und]/ood1 & ! dress mu/    
also be well cut1 or ! embroid]y w be q 
wa/$ ^u x4 ,:at is t]m$ art dress1      
prov]bially bad1 well des]ves its       
reputation4 ,!re is a great diff]5ce 9 !
 quantity ( "w t may be put into dress  
decoration2 ?is may be simply an        
embroid]$ ve/1 coll>1 & cuffs1 or x may 
be actually an integral "p ( ! co/ume1  
:i* z a mu* bigg] & m difficult und]tak+
 is correspond+ly f9] 9 effect :5       
successfully c>ri$ out4  ,among/ l>g]   
objects t well repay ! lab\r (          
embroid]y1 hang+s ( v>i\s k9ds1 quilts1 
scre5s1 furniture cov]+s1 alt> frontals1
 *ur* ve/m5ts1 may be m5tion$2 among/   
small]1 are bags1 boxes1 book-cov]s1    
gloves or mitt5s1 bell-pulls1 cu%ions1  
mirror frames1 all k9ds ( h\sehold l951 

infants' robes1 & s on1 & = *ur* use su*
 ?+s z alms-bags1 book-m>k]s1 /oles1    
pulpit & lect]n frontals4 ,!n a panel   
may be work$ ) ! delib]ate int5tion (   
fram+ x to hang on a wall4 ,!re is no   
reason :y ! pa9t] %\ld h ! monopoly (   
all ! available wall space1 = decorative
 "w is und\bt$ly 9 place !re2 a piece ( 
embroid]$ "w might well fill a panel ov]
 a mantel-piece4 ,!re is no ne$ to      
discuss :at n to d1 b1 if ! attraction  
to embroid] a tea-cosy is too /rong to  
resi/1 x %\ld surely be ( wa%able       
mat]ials4  ,embroid]y has di/9ct        
practical advantages ov] "s o!r crafts  
practis$ n[adays--no special /udio ne$  
be devot$ to its use1 = mo/ "w c be done
 9 any well-light$ room1 :i* inde$ w be 
r5d]$ m attractive by ! pres5ce ( an    
embroid]y frame1 = ?is is 9 itself a    
*>act]i/ic & da9ty piece ( furniture4 ,x
 ne$ b seldom int]f]e ) "o ( our        
pleasant traditions1 g5ial conv]se )1 & 
ab\t1 our neighb\rs1 = x is a di/9ctly  
sociable occupation4 ,"w ( ?is k9d c be 

put d[n & tak5 up at leisure2 ! necess>y
 outlay 9 mat]ials ne$ n be extravagant1
 & s on4 ,_m o!r po9ts might be ?\ght (1
 b ! claims ( ! art d n dem& any special
 plead+1 = x is pleasant 9 ! actual     
work+1 & c produce an inf9ite v>iety (  
mo/ int]e/+ results4     ,,*apt] ,,ii   
,,tools1 ,,appliances1 ,,& ,,mat]ials   
,ne$les--,scissors--,?imbles--,frames--,
/& & ,frame   comb9$--,tamb\r           
,frame--,cord-mak+                      
,appliance--,requisites =   ,transf]r+  
,patt]ns--,prick]--,knife--,sp9dle--,pi]
c]--,suitable   ,mat]ials = ,embroid]+  
^u--,?reads ( all ,k9ds--,/ones1        
,beads1 c4   ,good workman%ip takes a   
prom95t1 ?\gh n ! fir/1 place4 ,te*nical
 excell5ce 9 ne$lework1 z 9 all o!r     
arti/ic crafts1 is a "q ( ! work]'s     
p]sev]ance & h] ability 9 ! use ( tools4
 ,9 embroid]y ^! are few & simple1 & are
 z foll[s3--  ,ne$les4--,= mo/ purposes 
ne$les kn[n z long-ey$ %>ps are us$4    
,tape/ry ne$les1 simil> to ^!1 b ) blunt
 po9ts1 are useful = canvas "w & d>n$   

nett+4 ,= gold "w a special ne$le c be  
procur$ ) %>p po9t & long wide eye4 ,a  
b5t ne$le makes a crook$ /it*2 b ne$les 
if made ( good /eel %\ld n b5d2 !y break
 if us$ unfairly4 ,! eye %\ld be cleanly
 cut1 or x r\gh5s ! ?read4 ,! ne$le mu/ 
be j /\t en\gh to prep>e = ! ?read an   
easy passage ?r\gh ! mat]ial4           
,scissors4--,?ree pairs may be necess>y2
 = ord9>y "w a small pair ) f9e %>p     
po9ts1 = gold "w small ones ) /rong     
po9ts simil> to nail scissors1 & =      
cutt+-out purposes a l>ge pair ) "o     
r\nd$ & "o %>p po9t4  ,?imbles4--,/eel  
ones are said to be mo/ s]viceable1     
silv] are mo/ usual2 b :atev] ! mat]ial 
!y mu/ be neatly made 9 ord] n to we> ! 
?read4  ,frames4--,a common type ( frame
 is %[n at fig4 #a4 ,x is made 9 v>i\s  
sizes2 ! "o "h repres5t$ measures #ah   
in*es across4 ,x consi/s ( f\r pieces ( 
wood1 two roll]s = ! top & base & two   
side pieces4 ,ea* ( ! roll]s has a piece
 ( webb+ securely nail$ along x1 & its  
extremities are pi]c$ ) holes to receive

 ! side pieces4 ,^! are =m$ ( two long  
wood5 screws1 fitt$ ) movable nuts1 :i* 
adju/ ! wid? ( ! frame & ! tautness ( ! 
/ret*$ "w4 ,! piece ( mat]ial t is      
/ret*$ betwe5 is ! l9k t keeps ! frame  
toge!r1 = ! screw ends fit j loosely 9 !
 holes ( ! roll]s4 ,! side pieces are   
sometimes made ( flat la?s ( wood pi]c$ 
) holes at regul> int]vals2 9 ^! are    
ins]t$ metal p9s1 by means ( :i* ! "w is
 kept /ret*$4 ,fig4 #i repres5ts a frame
 ( ?is type4 ,if ! frame is a v l>ge "o 
x c h a /r5g!n+ b> fix$ across ! c5tre f
 roll] to roll]4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4   
#a4  ,! frame is mo/ conv5i5t = "w :5   
fix$ 9 a /&1 al?\gh x c be us$ lean+    
aga9/ a table or ! back ( a *air4 ,a v  
l>ge frame w\ld be support$ ^u tre/les1 
b = ord9>y purposes1 a /&1 su* z ! "o   
%[n 9 fig4 #b1 is practical4 ,x consi/s 
( two upright wood5 po/s1 a little ov]  
#b feet 9 height1 :i* are connect$ ne> !
 base by a /r5g!n+ cross piece4 ,bo? ?is
 & ! uprights are adju/able2 ! c5tre "p 
( ! po/s is arrang$ to slide up & d[n1 &

 c be fix$ at any conv5i5t height by !  
ins]tion ( a long metal p92 ! wid? ( !  
cross piece is regulat$ 9 simil> fa%ion1
 be+ made firm1 by a screw1 at ! requir$
 wid?1 ?us all[+ v>i\s siz$ frames to be
 us$ 9 ! same /&4 ,! frame is fix$ 9    
place by metal clamps1 & a wood5 pivot  
is arrang$ s z to p]mit ! /ret*$ "w to  
be incl9$ at any angle conv5i5t4 ,bo? /&
 & frame %\ld be well made & ( good     
wood1 = !y mu/ be able to /& /ra9 & be  
p]fectly firm & true :5 fix$ = "w4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4  ,a small       
circul> frame1 su* z is %[n 9 fig4 #c1  
is useful = m>k+ l95 or = any small "w4 
,?is1 =m$ ( two hoops fitt+ closely "o  
)9 ! o!r1 c be procur$ 9 wood1 ivory1 or
 bone1 ( v>i\s sizes1 ! "o illu/rat$ be+
 ab\t #f in*es 9 diamet]4 ,! mat]ial to 
be work$ ^u is /ret*$ betwe5 ^! hoops l 
! p>*m5t on a drum4 ,^! tamb\r frames1 z
 !y are call$1 are sometimes fix$ into a
 small /& or fitt$ ) a wood5 clamp =    
fa/5+ to a table2 ?is frees bo? h&s =   
"w4 ,^! tamb\rs _c well be recomm5d$2 ! 

mat]ial is apt to /ret* unev5ly1 & a    
work$ "p1 if flatt5$ betwe5 ! hoops1 is 
liable to be damag$4  ,illu/ration3     
,fig4 #c4  ,! illu/ration at fig4 #d %[s
 a simple little in/rum5t = mak+ a twi/$
 cord4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ,eti5ne  
,b9et1 :o wrote on embroid]y ab\t #afbj1
 :5 discuss+ "s necess>y equipm5t = an  
embroid]ess m5tions un r\et p\r faire   
les cordons4  ,!re is sometimes a       
difficulty 9 procur+ ! cord j "r to suit
 ! f9i%$ "w2 ! texture may be too co>se 
to put beside f9e embroid]y1 x may n be 
a good mat*1 &1 ev5 if s at fir/1 x may 
fade q diff]5tly f ! work$ silks4 ,= ^! 
& o!r reasons x is a safe me?od to make 
! cord "o's self1 possibly ) "s mat]ials
 ( ! k9d already us$ 9 ! embroid]y4     
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4  ,?is appliance 
enables ! work] to make any k9d ( twi/$ 
cord2 x is z simple z a toy to h&le1 &  
gives excell5t results4 ,x is a metal   
in/rum5t ab\t #h in*es 9 height4 ,! ?ree
 small discs are :eels1 support$ on !   
arms ( an upright cross :i* has a heavy 

circul> base4 ,^! ?ree :eels are        
connect$ by a cord ) a l>g] :eel bel[ t 
has a h&le atta*$ to x4 ,! cord runs 9 a
 groove r\nd ! circumf]5ce ( ea* :eel1 &
 mu/ be held taut 9 position4 ,by turn+ 
! h&le ( ! l>ge :eel ! ?ree small ones  
are set 9 motion4 ,?ree hooks1 atta*$ to
 ! axles ( ! small :eels1 are !re=e     
rotat$ ) !m4 ,"o end ( ea* ply ( ! cord 
9 mak+ is loop$ on to "o ( ^! hooks1 !  
o!r ends are atta*$ to ?ree simil> hooks
 fix$ into a block ( wood :i*1 :5 9 use1
 is firmly clamp$ to ! table4 ,fur!r    
in/ruction 9 ! mak+ ( cords is giv5 9   
,*apt] ,,xiii4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 
,to trace ! patt]n on to ! mat]ial !    
foll[+ articles may be requir$3 ,indian 
ink1 a small f9ely-po9t$ sable bru%1 a  
tube ( oil pa9t1 flake :ite or light r$1
 accord+ to ! col\r ( ! gr\nd mat]ial1  
turp5t9e1 p[d]$ *>coal or :ite *alk =   
p\nce1 trac+ pap]1 draw+-p9s1 & a       
prick]4 ,?is la/-m5tion$ tool is %[n 9  
fig4 #e4 ,x is ab\t #e in*es long1 & is 
l a ne$le ) ! blunt end fitt$ into a    

h&le4 ,= rubb+ on ! p\nce "s s(t cl++   
mat]ial roll$ into a ball is necess>y4  
,a piece ( old silk hose tightly roll$  
up makes an excell5t pad = ! purpose4   
,! knife %[n 9 fig4 #f is useful = cutt+
 out at times :5 ! use ( scissors is n  
practical4 ,x is us$ 9 an upright       
position1 ) ! po9t outw>ds4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4  ,a sp9dle =    
w9d+ gold ?read ^u :il/ work+ is %[n 9  
fig4 #g4 ,x is ab\t #h in*es long4 ,a   
s(t padd+ ( cotton ?read is fir/ plac$  
r\nd 7betwe5 ,a & ,b1 fig4 #g71 & ! gold
 ?read w\nd ^u t4 ,! end ( ! ?read      
passes ?r\gh ! =k$ piece at ! top on its
 way to be+ work$ into ! mat]ial4 ,! use
 ( ?is or "s simil> appliance enables ! 
work] to avoid mu* t\*+ ( ! metal       
?reads4  ,a small tool call$ a pi]c] is 
repres5t$ by fig4 #h2 x is us$ 9 gold   
"w2 ! flat end assi/s 9 plac+ ! gold 9  
position1 & also 9 mak+ ! floss silk lie
 q flat2 ! po9t$ end is us$ = pi]c+     
holes 9 ! mat]ial = pass+ co>se ?read to
 ! back1 & = o!r purposes4 ,?is little  

tool1 made ( /eel1 is ab\t #e in*es 9   
l5g?4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4          
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4   ,,mat]ials  ,!
 surface is a matt] ( special int]e/ 9  
embroid]y "w4 ,?is makes ! *oice (      
mat]ials ( great importance4 ,besides ! 
"q ( appe>ance1 ^! mu/ be suitable to ! 
purpose1 durable1 &1 if possible1       
pleasant to "w ) & ^u4 ,! mat]ials *os5 
%\ld be ! be/ ( _! k9d1 = "t & lab\r are
 too valuable to be sp5t ^u poor /uffs2 
occasionally a piece ( old "w is se5 ) !
 gr\nd mat]ial 9 %r$s & ! embroid]y ^u x
 9 a good /ate ( pres]vation1 :i* is a  
pity1 = a newly appli$ gr\nd ( any k9d  
is nev] z satisfactory z ! orig9al "o4  
,/ill ano!r plea = ! use ( good mat]ials
 is ! moral effect !y may h ^u ! work]1 
incit+ h] to put =? h] be/ ef=ts 9 us+  
!m4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4  ,! purpose
 to :i* ! "w is to be put usually       
decides ! gr\nd mat]ial1 besides gov]n+ 
patt]n1 /it*es1 & ev]y?+ else4 ,a       
backgr\nd is *os51 z a rule1 to %[ to   
advantage & pres]ve :at is to be plac$  

^u x1 ?\gh sometimes x is ! o!r way     
ab\t1 & ! patt]n is plann$ to suit an   
already exi/+ gr\nd4  ,a backgr\nd mu/  
take its "r place1 & n be too mu* 9     
evid5ce1 al?\gh if ( ! "r k9d x may be  
full ( int]e/4 ,!re are1 r\ghly speak+1 
?ree ways ( treat+ ! gr\nd1 leav+ !     
mat]ial j z x is1 cov]+ "p ( x ) /it*+1 
or work+ entirely ov] x4  ,if !re is no 
"w ^u ! gr\nd ! *oice ( mat]ial becomes 
m important4 ,texture1 col\r1 tone1 &   
possibly patt]n1 h all to be consid]$1  
?\gh ! problem is (t5 be/ solv$ by !    
selection ( a pla9 :ite l954 ,! "q (    
texture is sometimes "o ( its           
suitability = /it*+ ^u2 col\r & tone may
 be ( all k9ds & degrees f :ite to      
black2 ^! two1 z a rule1 be+ p>ticul>ly 
happy ones4 ,if ! gr\nd /uff is patt]n$1
 z 9 ! case ( a damask$ silk1 x mu/ be  
specially *os5 to suit ! "w to be plac$ 
^u x2 small diap] patt]ns are frequ5tly 
v good1 s9ce !y break up ! surface      
pleasantly )\t be+ too evid5t4  ,l951   
:i* well answ]s all ! usual requirem5ts1

 is1 = ?is reason1 v frequ5tly *os5 = a 
gr\nd mat]ial4 ,x c be procur$ 9 great  
v>iety1 ! h&made l95s be+ ! be/ ( all4  
,( k9ds besides ! ord9>y are twill$     
l95s1 ( :i* "o nam$ ,kirriemuir twill is
 simil> to ! mat]ial us$ 9 ! f9e old    
embroid]$ curta9s4 ,"s damask l95s look 
v well z backgr\nds = embroid]y2 !      
patt]n is sometimes a slightly rais$    
diap]1 :i* =ms a pleasantly brok5       
surface4 ,loosely wov5 l95s c be obta9$ 
specially suitable = drawn ?read "w4 ,9 
any case1 if !re is dress+ 9 ! new      
mat]ial1 x mu/ be well boil$ be=e !     
embroid]y is comm5c$3 ?is makes x mu*   
s(t] = /it*+ ?r\gh4 ,col\r$ l95s are    
r>ely satisfactory1 a c]ta9 k9d ( blue  
be+ almo/ ! only exception4 ,! safe/    
plan is to keep to pure :ite1 or to !   
unblea*$ v>ieties t h a slightly grey or
 w>m tone ab\t !m4 ,wools1 silks1 & flax
 ?reads all look well ^u a l95 gr\nd2 x 
is n usually 9 good ta/e to embroid] )  
poor ?read ^u a ri* gr\nd mat]ial1 &1 ^u
 ! o!r h&1 gold ?read & floss dem& silk 

or velvet r ?an l951 ?\gh any rule ( ?is
 k9d may on occasion be brok54  ,velvet 
& sat9 make excell5t backgr\nds = ri*   
"w2 !y %\ld n be us$ unless ( good      
quality4 ,! pile ( ! be/ velvet is %ort]
 ?an t ( poor] k9ds1 & s is easi] to    
manipulate1 :i* is a fur!r reason = us+ 
! be/4 ,x is 9 any case a difficult     
mat]ial1 s mu* s t "w is (t5 c>ri$ out  
on l95 & aft]w>ds appli$ to a velvet    
gr\nd4 ,! mod]n velvets1 ev5 ! be/ ( !m1
 are = quality or col\r n comp>able ) ! 
old ones4  ,silk ( diff]5t k9ds is      
l>gely employ$1 s9ce x makes a suitable 
gr\nd = _m k9ds ( embroid]y4 ,twill$ &  
damask$ silks are mu* us$2 9 ! la/-nam$ 
k9d1 patt]ns mu/ be c>efully *os5 to    
suit ! p>ticul> purpose4 ,a ?ick ribb$  
silk is r>ely satisfactory = embroid]y  
purposes4  ,= work+ ) silk ?read1 an    
untwi/$ floss takes ! fir/ place1 b x   
ne$s "s skill 9 manipulation4 ,fil(loss 
is some:at simil>1 b x has a slight twi/
 9 x1 mak+ x easi] to "w1 ?\gh produc+ a
 less satisfactory result4 ,filosel is  

useful = "s k9ds ( "w1 b x is a poor]   
quality ( silk4 ,! purse silks1 & :at is
 call$ embroid]y silk1 are all excell5t2
 !y are tightly twi/$ v>ieties ( f9e    
quality4 ,!re are v>i\s o!rs 9 use2 a   
visit to a good embroid]y depot w       
probably be ! be/ means ( f9d+ out ab\t 
^! & ab\t mat]ials 9 g5]al4  ,wools c be
 obta9$ 9 v>i\s ?icknesses & twi/+s1 ea*
 good 9 _! way4 ,"s work]s pref] a b    
slightly twi/$ wool2 h[ev]1 examples (  
old wool "w are to be f\nd 9 :i* a f9ely
 twi/$ v>iety is us$ ) mo/ satisfactory 
effect4  ,flax ?reads c be obta9$ 9 v   
good col\rs1 & are to be highly         
recomm5d$4 ,!re are v>i\s cottons       
procurable1 ei!r col\r$ or :ite1 t are  
good = m>k+ & o!r embroid]y purposes :]e
 an ev5ly twi/$ ?read is desirable4     
,pe>ls & preci\s /ones take _! place 9  
ri* embroid]ies1 also v>i\s less        
exp5sive b pretty /ones may (t5 be made 
use ( effectively4  ,beads are a        
fasc9at+ mat]ial to "w )2 all k9ds (    
pretty ?+s c be done ) !m1 ei!r sew+ !m 

^u a gr\nd1 knitt+ or cro*et+1 or mak+  
use ( a small bead loom4 ,a good deal ( 
! ready-made b\ght bead "w1 t only      
requires a monoton\s gr\nd to be fill$ 9
 ar\nd an already work$ patt]n ( sorts1 
is n at all sugge/ive ( its             
possibilities4 ,beads ( bo? pa/e & glass
 c be obta9$ 9 mu* great] v>iety ?an is 
usually kn[n1 f ! mo/ m9ute 9 size to   
l>ge v>ieties ( all k9ds ( %apes &      
patt]ns1 ! col\rs ( mo/ ( !m be+        
p>ticul>ly good4 ,! l>g] ornam5tal beads
 are useful 9 _m ways1 sometimes tak+ ! 
place ( tassels or fr+es4  ,_m k9ds (   
mo/ curi\s mat]ials are at times br\ght 
into ! s]vice ( embroid]y1 b !          
above-m5tion$ ones are ! mo/ usual4     
,,*apt] ,,iii  ,,patt]n ,,design+    ,! 
,difficulties ( ,patt]n ,mak+--,a       
,/ock-9-,trade--,"s   ,pr9ciples ^u :i* 
,patt]ns are ,built                     
,up--,spac+-,out--,nature &             
,conv5tion--,%ad+--,figure              
,"w--,limitations--,col\r4   ,a beg9n]  
sometimes exp]i5ces difficulty 9 prep>+ 

h] own patt]ns4 ,a design] ne$s a wide k
 ( _m subjects1 :i* necessitates mu* "t 
be+ giv5 to /udy2 also draw+ ability is 
necess>y to enable ! work] to set d[n h]
 ideas ^u pap]4 ,= mu* simple & pretty  
"w1 h[ev]1 a slight acqua9tance ) draw+ 
& design is suffici5t1 & any "o :o c    
ma/] ! requisite /it*es c also acquire  
"s k ( ^! two subjects4  ,! ^w design   
fright5s "s :o d n "k q :at x means or  
entails4 ,p]haps !y d n realise t !     
design has already be5 begun :5 ! object
 to be work$ has be5 settl$1 & !        
mat]ial1 ?read1 & /it*es h be5 decid$   
^u--! re/ comes 9 mu* ! same way1 p>tly 
by a sy/em ( *oice2 z x is necess>y to  
"k :at mat]ials !re are :i* c be us$1 s 
mu/ ! *ief v>ieties ( patt]n be kn[n f  
:i* *oice c be made4 ,all patt]ns are   
built up on "s fundam5tal plan1 ( :i* ! 
numb] is comp>atively small4 ,! ability 
to *oose1 plan1 & arrange is 9 a great] 
or less degree inh]5t 9 e "o1 s !re %\ld
 be1 aft] all1 no great difficulty 9 !  
design4 ,! necess>y und]ly+ qualities   

are--a nice ta/e1 fre$om f affectation1 
an eye = col\r & =m1 &1 x might be add$1
 a fair %>e ( common s5se4  ,a patt]n   
mak] requires "s /ock-9-trade1 & x is   
wise to collect toge!r a /ore ( "s      
well-classifi$ design mat]ial ( asc]ta9$
 value1 ready to be drawn ^u :5 requir$4
 ,a good k ( plants & fl[]s is v        
necess>y4 ,?is is be/ acquir$ by mak+   
c>eful draw+s f nature4 ,9 *oos+ fl[]s =
 embroid]y purposes1 ! be/-kn[n ones1   
su* z ! daisy1 rose1 or c>nation1 give m
 pleasure to ! obs]v] ?an r>e           
unrecognisable v>ieties4 ,figures1      
birds1 bea/s1 & su* ?+s z inscriptions1 
monograms1 %ields ( arms & emblems1 all 
dem& /udy & draw+1 bo? f miscellane\s   
examples & f embroid]ies4  ,! treatm5t (
 all ^! %\ld be /udi$ 9 old "w1 9 ord] t
 ! curi\s conv5tions & all k9ds ( amus+ 
& int]e/+ ideas t h gradually gr[n up 9 
! pa/ may /ill be made use ( & add$ to1 
in/ead ( be+ ca/ aside 9 a wild endeav\r
 aft] some?+ orig9al4 ,! /ud5t :o       
collects a supply ( ! =ego+ mat]ials w  

f9d %e has consid]ably wid5$ h] k dur+ !
 process1 & is bett] prep>$ to make     
designs4  ,9 mak+ a patt]n ! fir/ ?+ to 
be decid$ ^u is "s ma9 idea1 ! detail t 
is to c>ry x out mu/ !n be consid]$4    
,?is latt] may be ( v>i\s types1 su* z  
fl[]s1 foliage1 figures1 animals1       
geometrical =ms1 int]lac+ /rapwork1     
quatrefoils1 c41 c42 p]haps sev]al ( ^! 
motifs may be comb9$ toge!r 9 ! same    
design4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4  ,"o (
 ! simple/ plans ^u :i* a patt]n c be   
arrang$ is t ( "s =m recurr+ at regul>  
int]vals ov] ! surface4 ,! pr9ciple     
involv$ is repetition2 an example ( x is
 %[n at fig4 #aj4 ,! =m t is us$ "h is a
 sprig ( fl[]1 b ! repeat+ elem5t admits
 ( inf9ite v>iation1 x may be any?+ f a 
dot to an angel4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4   
#aa4  ,copes & *asubles1 b$spreads &    
curta9s1 are (t5 to be se5 decorat$ ) "s
 repeat+ =m4 ,fig4 #aa %[s 9 outl9e a   
conv5tional sprig t is repeat$ 9 ?is    
fa%ion ov] ! surface ( a fam\s cope 9   
,ely ,ca!dral4 ,fig4 #ab is an example (

 a sprig ( fl[] tak5 f a ,x,v,i,ith     
c5tury embroid]$ curta92 simil> bun*es1 
b compos$ ( diff]5t fl[]s1 recur at     
int]vals ov] ?is hang+4  ,x may int]e/ !
 practical work] to "k :at are ! diff]5t
 /it*es us$ ^u ?is figure4 ,! petals ( !
 top fl[] are 9 *a9 /it* 9 gradat$      
col\r+1 ! c5tre is an op5 cross+ ( *a9  
surr\nd$ by /am5s 9 /em /it* 9 v>i$     
col\r1 ! out]mo/ leaves are outl9$ 9 /em
 /it* ) an op5 fill+ ( little cross$    
/it*es4 ,! petals ( ! l[] fl[] are work$
 simil>ly1 & ! c5tre is c>ri$ out 9 *a9 
/it* & ,fr5* knots4 ,! leaves are fill$ 
9 ) +5i\s v>iations ( ^! /it*es4        
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab4  ,! repeat+    
elem5t is p]haps a symbolical figure1 a 
h]aldic %ield1 or x may be "s           
geometrical =m t supplies ! motive4     
,fig4 #ac is a conv5tional sprig (      
haw?orn t ornam5ts 9 ?is way an alt>    
frontal at ,zan!n4 ,x is by no means    
necess>y t ! elem5t :i* repeats %\ld be 
always id5tical2 s long z x is simil> 9 
size1 =m1 & g5]al "* x w probably be ! m

 int]e/+ if v>iety is introduc$4  ,!    
pr9ciple ( repetition is aga9 f\nd 9    
fig4 #ad1 b ) an additional feature2 a  
sprig ( fl[] is us$1 ) ! fur!r          
introduction ( diagonal l9es1 express$  
by leaf sprays1 :i* are arrang$ s z to  
surr\nd ea* fl[] & divide x f ! adjo9+  
ones4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac4  ,x is  
advisable to space out ! requir$ surface
 9 "s way be=e comm5c+ to draw out a    
patt]n2 = c>ry+ out fig4 #ad x w\ld be  
well to p5cil out ! surface z 9 fig4    
#ae2 a connection betwe5 ^! two w be    
p]ceiv$ at a glance4 ,?is spac+-out ( ! 
requir$ surface 9 "o way or ano!r is (  
great assi/ance1 & may ev5 prove        
sugge/ive 9 ! plann+ ( ! design4 ,x     
helps ! regul>ity ( ! "w1 & ord] is     
ess5tial 9 design z 9 mo/ o!r ?+s 9     
life4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4  ,ano!r 
v usual exp$i5t is t ( introduc+ a ma9  
c5tral =m1 ) o!rs bran*+ out on ei!r    
side & symmetrically balanc+ ea* o!r4   
,an example ( ?is is giv5 9 fig4 #af4 ,!
 symmetry may be mu* m free ?an ?is2 a  

tree is symmetrical tak5 z a :ole1 b !  
two sides d n exactly repeat ea* o!r4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae4  ,a plan v     
commonly employ$ is t ( radiat+ ma9 l9es
 all div]g+ f "o c5tral po9t4 ,fig4 #ag 
%[s a design foll[+ ?is pr9ciple2 !re is
 inf9ite v>iety 9 ! ways 9 :i* ?is may  
be c>ri$ out4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4  ,ano!r me?od  
w\ld be to plan a cont9u\s fl[+ l9e )   
=ms bran*+ out on "o side or on bo?4    
,figs4 #ah & #ai are bord] designs1 =   
:i* purpose ?is arrangem5t is (t5 us$1  
?\gh x c also well =m an all-ov] patt]n2
 sometimes ^! l9es us$ ov] a surface are
 made to cross ea* o!r1 t>tan wise1 by  
runn+ 9 two directions1 produc+ an      
app>5tly complicat$ design by v simple  
means4  ,illu/ration3 ,figs4 #ah & #ai4 
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4  ,designs may  
be plann$ on ! c\nt]*ange pr9ciple4 ,?is
 is a sy/em ( mass design+ t involves ! 
problem ( mak+ a patt]n out ( "o %ape1  
cont9ually repeat$1 & fitt+ into itself 
9 su* a way z to leave no int]/ices4 ,! 

simple/ example ( ?is is to be f\nd 9 ! 
*ess bo>d1 & x w easily be se5 t a great
 numb] ( %apes might be us$ in/ead ( !  
squ>e4 ,fig4 #bj is an example ( a      
c\nt]*ange design c>ri$ out 9 inlay2 =  
?is me?od ( "w c\nt]*ange is v suitable4
 ,on ref]5ce to ! *apt] ^u ?is "w ano!r 
example w be f\nd 7page #aha74 ,fig4 #ba
 illu/rates ! same pr9ciple1 fur!r      
complicat$ by ! repetition ( ! =m 9 ?ree
 directions in/ead ( 9 two only4        
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4  ,a me?od (    
fur!r enri*+ a /raight=w>d patt]n1 cov]+
 a pla9 surface1 is to "w a subsidi>y   
patt]n ^u ! backgr\nd4 ,?is is usually (
 a monoton\s & =mal "* 9 ord] n to cla% 
) ! prim>y decoration1 ?\gh ?is         
relation%ip may sometimes be f\nd       
rev]s$4 ,x has ! appe>ance ( be+ "s     
decoration belong+ to ! gr\nd r ?an to !
 prim>y patt]n2 9 its simple/ =m x      
appe>s z a m]e repeat+ dot or a lattice 
7see fig4 #bb71 b x may be s elaborat$ z
 to cov] ) an intricate design e portion
 ( ! expos$ gr\nd n decorat$ ) ! ma9    

patt]n4  ,_m o!r di/9ct k9ds ( "w might 
be m5tion$1 su* z ne$lework pictures1 ! 
/ory-tell+ embroid]ies t c be made s    
p>ticul>ly attractive4 ,embroid]$       
l&scapes1 =mal g>d5s1 my/]i\s woods1    
views ( t[ns & palaces1 are1 if rightly 
treat$1 v f9e4 ,9 ord] to le>n ! way to 
"w su* subjects we mu/ g to ! ,x,v,ith &
 ,x,v,i,ith c5tury petit po9t pictures1 
& to ! detail 9 f9e tape/ries4 ,! wrong 
me?od ( go+ to "w is to imitate ! effect
 s\ght aft] by ! pa9t]4  ,illu/ration3  
,fig4 #bb4  ,x is a mi/ake 9 embroid]y  
design to be too naturali/ic4 ,9 pa9t+ x
 may be ! especial aim to exactly       
imitate nature1 b "h are want$ embroid]y
 fl[]s1 animals & figures1 possess+ ! "*
 & lik5ess ( ! ?+s repres5t$1 b 9 no way
 try+ to make u believe t !y are real4  
,! semblance ( a bumble bee crawl+ ^u ! 
tea clo? gives a h>dly pleasant s5sation
 & mu* sav\rs ( ! practical joke1 :i* is
 seldom 9 good ta/e2 ! ne$le1 h[ev]1    
adds conv5tion to almo/ any?+1 & w      
usually manage ! bee all "r unless !    

work] goes out ( ! way to add a %ad[ & a
 high light4 ,su* ?+s z p]spective1     
light & %ade or modell+ ( =m1 %\ld all  
be v mu* simplifi$ if n avoid$1 =       
embroid]y con=ms to ! requirem5ts (     
decoration & mu/ n falsify ! surface t x
 ornam5ts4 ,%ad+ is made use ( 9 ord] to
 give m v>iety to1 & exhibit ! beauty (1
 col\r by means ( gradation1 to expla9 m
 cle>ly ! design1 & s on2 x is n employ$
 = ! purpose ( fix+ ! light+ ( !        
composition f "o po9t by means (        
sy/ematically adju/$ light & %ade1 or ( 
mak+ a =m /& out s reali/ically z to    
almo/ project f ! backgr\nd4  ,9 avoid+ 
too mu* resemblance to natural =ms x is 
n necess>y to make ?+s ugly2 a          
conv5tional fl[] implies no unmean+     
/raightness or impossible curve1 x may  
keep all its int]e/+ *>act]i/ics1 b x   
has to obey o!r requirem5ts specially   
necess>y 9 ! p>ticul> design4 ,ano!r    
po9t to be not$ is t1 s9ce !re is fre$om
 ( *oice ( fl[]s & o!r objects1 only ^? 
p]fect & well-=m$ %\ld be *os52 all     

accid5ts ( gr[? & disease may1 happily1 
be omitt$2 if any?+ ( ?is k9d is put 9 x
 helps to give ! naturali/ic look :i* is
 to be avoid$4 ,bo? sides ( a leaf %\ld 
mat*1 ?\gh x may happ5 9 nature1 ?r\gh  
mis=tune1 t "o is de=m$ & small4  ,9    
figure "w1 :i*1 ?\gh ambiti\s1 is "o ( !
 mo/ int]e/+ k9ds ( embroid]y1 !        
figures1 l all o!r ?+s1 mu/ be treat$ ) 
a c]ta9 am\nt ( simplicity2 v little    
attempt mu/ be made to obta9 fle% tones1
 r\ndness ( =m1 p]spective1 or =e%ort5+4
 ,! "w %\ld be j suffici5tly ne> to     
nature to be a good embroid]y r5d]+ ( x4
 ,h[ev]1 )\t ov]/epp+ ! limits !re is a 
great deal t may be express$1 su* ?+s z 
"*1 ge/ure1 grace1 col\r1 & s on1 matt]s
 :i* are aft] all ( fir/ importance4    
,detail1 if ( ! "r k9d1 may be fill$ 91 
b x is wrong to attempt :at is to !     
craft v labori\s to obta91 = ?is w\ld be
 misdirect$ en]gy1 :i* is great wa/e4 ,a
 "r use ( ! figure c be se5 9 !         
,x,i,i,ith c5tury embroid]y pictures1   
:i*1 cov]+ m$iaeval *ur* ve/m5ts1 (t5   

display episodes f ! lives ( ! sa9ts4   
,^! are "s ( ! ma/]pieces ( ! art (     
embroid]y2 obs]vation ( nature is c>ri$ 
to a m>vell\s pit*1 b ! execution nev]  
s9ks into commonplace realism4  ,c]ta9  
re/rictions are always pres5t1 9 mak+ a 
design1 t mu/ be con=m$ to1 su* z1 !    
limit ( space1 ! mat]ials ) :i* ! "w is 
to be c>ri$ out1 ! use to :i* x w be    
put1 & s on4 ,^!1 in/ead ( be+          
difficulties1 c af=d help 9 ! way (     
sugge/ion & limitation4 ,a bad design   
may look z if x obey$ !m unwill+ly--a =m
 is p]haps cramp$1 p]haps /ret*$ out 9  
ord] to fit its place1 in/ead ( look+ z 
if x naturally fitt$ x :e!r ! conf9+    
l9es 7 !re or n4 ,9 ! e>ly h]bals1      
illu/rat$ ) woodcuts1 examples c be f\nd
 ov] & ov] aga9 ( a fl[] fill+ a requir$
 space simply & well2 fig4 #bc is tak5 f
 ! h]bal ( ,c>olus ,clusius1 pr9t$ at   
,antw]p 9 #afja by ! great h\se (       
,plant94 ,! draughtsman 9 ?is case _h to
 draw a plant to fit a /&>d-siz$        
engrav]'s block1 & he _h a c]ta9 numb] (

 facts to tell ab\t x2 he drew ! plant z
 simply & /raight=w>dly z possible1 mak+
 good use ( all ! available space1 !    
result be+ a well-plann$ & balanc$ piece
 ( "w1 ) no affectation or unnecess>y   
l9es ab\t x4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4  
,f9e col\r is a quality appreciat$ at   
fir/ sight1 ?\gh (t5 unconsci\sly4 ,x is
 a difficult subject to speak ( v       
def9itely2 an eye = col\r is natural to 
"s1 b 9 any case ! faculty c be         
cultivat$ & develop$4 ,by way ( /udy+ ! 
subject1 we c g to nature & le>n z mu* z
 we are capable ( appreciat+2 ev5 su*   
?+s z butt]flies1 %ells1 & birds' eggs  
are sugge/ive4 ,aga91 embroid]ies1      
illum9at$ manuscripts1 pictures1 pa9t$  
decoration1 may be /udi$1 & s on2 9     
fact1 col\r is s univ]sal t x is n      
possible to get away f x4 ,un=tunately  
we are sometimes =c$ to le>n :at to     
avoid z well z :at to emulate4  ,col\r  
is entirely relative1 t is to say x     
dep5ds ^u its imm$iate surr\nd+s = :at x
 appe>s to be4 ,also x has effects v>y+ 

) ! mat]ial :i* x dyes2 wool is ( an    
absorb5t nature1 :]eas silk has p[]s (  
reflection4 ,x is a safe plan to use    
true col\rs1 real blue1 r$ or gre51 n   
slate1 t]ra cotta1 & olive4 ,gold1      
silv]1 :ite & black1 are valuable       
additions to ! col\r palette2 x %\ld be 
rememb]$ ab\t ! =m] t preci\s ?+s mu/ be
 us$ ) economy or !y become *eap &      
p]haps vulg>4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 
,= gett+ satisfactory col\r !re is a    
useful me?od :i* c at times be made use 
(2 ?is is to /it* x d[n 9 alt]nate l9es 
( two diff]5t t9ts1 :i*1 se5 toge!r at a
 little di/ance1 give ! desir$ effect4  
,backgr\nds c be cov]$ ov] ) "s small   
geometrical patt]n c>ri$ out 9 ?is way1 
su* z is %[n 9 fig4 #bd1 p]haps us+ 9   
alt]nation bright blue & black in/ead ( 
a s+le m$ium t9t ( blue all ov]4 ,at a  
slight di/ance ! tone may be ! same 9   
ei!r case1 b ?is me?od gives a          
pleasantly v>i$ & ref9$ effect1 :i*     
avoids mudd9ess1 & %[s up ! patt]n      
bett]4 ,?is same me?od is us$ = express+

 =m m cle>ly z well z = col\r2 waves (  
hair1 = in/ance1 are mu* m cle>ly       
express$ :5 work$ 9 ?is way4     ,,*apt]
 ,,iv  ,,/it*es    ,introduction--,*a9  
,/it*--,zigzag ,*a9--,*equ]$            
,*a9--,twi/$   ,*a9--,op5 ,*a9--,braid  
,/it*--,cable ,*a9--,knott$ ,*a9--,split
   ,/it*4   ,x is necess>y = e work] to 
h a c]ta9 am\nt ( k ( /it*es1 = !y are1 
s to speak1 ! language ( ! art1 & ?\gh n
 ( fir/ importance1 /ill !re is a great 
deal 9 /it*]y4 ,! ne$lewoman %\ld be    
absolute ma/] ( h] ne$le1 = !re is a    
great *>m 9 beautifully c>ri$ out /it*+2
 also a good design c be made me*anical 
& un9t]e/+ by a wrong me?od ( execution4
 ,! simple/ & mo/ common /it*es are !   
be/1 & are all t are necess>y = ! do+ ( 
good "w4 ,"w c>ri$ out entirely 9 "o    
/it* has a c]ta9 unity & "* t is v      
pleas+4 ,!re are a great numb] ( /it*es 
9 exi/5ce1 t is1 if ea* slight v>iation 
has a diff]5t "n assign$ to x4 ,! names 
are sometimes mislead+1 = (t5 ! same    
/it* is kn[n by sev]al diff]5t ones2    

descriptive names h :]e possible be5    
*os5 = ^? discuss$ 9 ! foll[+ pages4  ,a
 work] may f9d x useful to keep by h] a 
sampl] ) ! mo/ *>act]i/ic /it*es plac$  
^u x2 a glance at ?is w be sugge/ive :5 
%e is 9 d\bt z to :i* to use1 = x is (t5
 difficult to recollect j ! "r & mo/    
suitable "o at a mom5t's notice4 ,x is  
necess>y to le>n only ! ma9 v>ieties1 = 
ea* individual work] c adapt1 comb9e1 & 
inv5t v>iations to suit a special       
purpose4  ,! direction ( ! /it* is      
important2 tone1 if n col\r1 c be v mu* 
alt]$ by *ange 9 direction2 also gr[? & 
=m c be sugge/$ by x2 = in/ance1 l9es   
go+ across a /em are n usually s        
satisfactory z ^? runn+ ! l5g? ( x2 ^!  
sugge/+ gr[? bett]4 ,folds ( drap]y are 
(t5 expla9$ by direction ( ! l9es (     
/it*+ q z mu* z by gradation ( col\r4   
,) ref]5ce to ! /it*es describ$ 9 !     
foll[+ *apt]s1 ! work] is advis$ to try 
to "w !m by simply exam9+ ! diagrams1 &1
 if 9 any difficulty1 !n to ref] to !   
pr9t$ description1 = su* directions are 

apt to be t$i\s4 ,! simple/ way to ma/] 
^! is to let "s "o read !m out /ep by   
/ep1 & to "w f dictation4 ,x %\ld be    
rememb]$ t ! use ( a p>ticul> ?read (t5 
makes or m>s a /it*1 "s requir+ s(t     
silks to %[ !m to advantage1 :il/ o!rs  
may ne$ a /\tly twi/$ ?read4  ,*a9 /it* 
is univ]sal1 & "o ( ! mo/ anci5t (      
/it*es4 ,x is ! mo/ commonly us$ ( a    
gr\p t might be describ$ z l9k$ /it*es4 
,mu* beautiful "w has be5 c>ri$ out     
entirely 9 x1 & :5 a monoton\s ev5 l9e  
is requir$1 ?is is a mo/ suitable /it*  
to employ4 ,x is equally 9 reque/ =     
outl9e & fill+ 91 & its *a9-l           
adaptability makes x specially good =   
foll[+ out curv$ =ms or spiral l9es4    
,tamb\r /it* is practically ! same 9    
result1 ?\gh work$ 9 q a diff]5t mann]1 
= x is c>ri$ out 9 a frame ) a f9e      
cro*et hook1 in/ead ( ) a ne$le4 ,?is   
makes x quick] 9 execution1 b m         
me*anical 9 appe>ance1 s x is n to be z 
mu* recomm5d$4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4
  ,to "w *a9 /it* 7fig4 #be7 br+ ! ne$le

 ?r\gh at ! top ( ! trac$ l9e1 hold !   
work+ ?read d[n t[>ds ! left ) ! ?umb1  
ins]t ! ne$le at ! po9t :]e ! ?read has 
j come ?r\gh & br+ x up on ! trac$ l9e  
ab\t "o-sixte5? ( an in* fur!r along1   
draw ! ?read ?r\gh ov] ! held d[n ?read4
 ,x %\ld %[ a neat l9e ( back-/it*+ on !
 rev]se side4 ,! *a9 c be made broad] by
 ins]t+ ! ne$le a little to ! "r1 in/ead
 ( at ! exact po9t :]e ! la/ ?read came 
?r\gh4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 9 ! work+ n to  
draw ! ?read too tightly1 z ?is /it* is 
incl9$ to puck] ! mat]ial1 especially :5
 x is work$ 9 curv$ l9es4  ,a fl[] &    
leaf work$ ) a solid fill+ ( *a9 /it*   
are %[n 9 fig4 #bf4 ,! d>k outl9e ( !   
fl[] is 9 back /it*1 ! c5tre a mass (   
,fr5* knots1 & ! /em 9 /em /it*4 ,by    
work+ ! petals 9 curv$ l9es 9 ?is way ! 
%ape is well sugge/$1 & ! play ( light  
on ! curves is p>ticul>ly happy1        
especially if ! ?read us$ is silk or    
gold4 ,ano!r slight v>iation f ?is w\ld 
be to "w ! l9es ( *a9 /it* 9 diff]5t    
%ades ( col\r1 & s get ea* petal        

gradually ei!r light] or d>k] t[>ds its 
base2 ?is gives a v pretty effect4 ,fig4
 #bg %[s an oak leaf c>ri$ out 9 ?is    
way1 ! l9es ^u x indicate ! way 9 :i* ! 
/it*es w\ld be work$4 ,! rule 9 solid   
fill+s is to "w f ! outside inw>ds :]e  
possible1 & ?us make sure ( a good      
outl9e4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4  ,9 ! 
,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum !re is a :ite
 l95 dress#a da9tily embroid]$ 9 *a9    
/it*4 ,x is an excell5t example ( a k9d 
( design suitable to ?is /it*2 ! leaves 
& fl[]s are c>ri$ out 9 l9es ( *a9 /it* 
foll[+ ! outl9e1 & 9 ^! l9es use is made
 ( /rongly contra/+ col\r to bo? %[ up !
 =m bett]1 & also decorate x4 ,! leaf 9 
fig4 #bh is 9 /yle some:at simil> to    
?is1 & is int5d$ to be c>ri$ out 9 two  
di/9ct col\rs4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4
  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4  ,*a9 /it*es 
c be work$ s+ly2 !y are us$ 9 ?is way z 
a p[d]+ ov] a backgr\nd4 ,sometimes !y  
may be se5 conv5tionally sugge/+ ! small
 fea!rs on ! %\ld] ( a bird's w+ by be+ 
dott$ ov] x at regul> int]vals4 ,fig4   

#bi %[s h[ !y might be us$ to c>ry out a
 t9y fl[]1 five sep>ate /it*es repres5t 
! petals1 & two m ! leaves at ! base2   
?is is a simpl] & m satisfactory me?od  
?an to attempt v m9ute =ms ) sat9       
/it*es4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4  ,!   
common *a9 makes a p>ticul>ly neat bord]
 /it* tak5 9 zigzag fa%ion4 ,to "w ?is  
7fig4 #cj7--,trace two p>allel l9es on !
 mat]ial & "w ! *a9 across f side to    
side at an angle ( #de deg4 to ! trac$  
l9es4 ,= fur!r security x is well to    
cat* d[n ! end ( ! /it* j complet$ ) !  
ne$le z x comm5ces ! foll[+ "o4 ,! l9e c
 be fur!r decorat$ by plac+ a ,fr5*     
knot1 p]haps 9 a contra/+ col\r1 9 ea*  
little triangul> space left by work+ !  
/it*4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj4         
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca4  ,!re is an    
+5i\s me?od ( work+ ord9>y *a9 /it* 9 a 
*equ]+ ( two col\rs 7fig4 #ca74 ,x is q 
simple to "w4 ,?read a ne$le ) two      
diff]5t col\r$ ?reads1 comm5ce ! *a9    
/it* 9 ! usual way until ! ?read has to 
be plac$ "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le = =m+ !    

loop4 ,place only "o ( ! two ?reads     
und]nea?1 leav+ ! o!r on "o side out ( !
 way1 !n draw ! ne$le & ?read ?r\gh ov] 
! "o held d[n4 ,a *a9 /it* w h be5 =m$ )
 ! ?read t 0 loop$ "u ! ne$le4 ,= ! next
 /it*1 ! alt]nate ?read is plac$ "u1 & s
 on1 tak+ ea* ?read 9 turn4 ,! ?read n 9
 use ea* "t usually requires a little   
adju/m5t to make x entirely disappe> f !
 surface4  ,twi/$ *a9 is work$ v        
simil>ly to ! ord9>y *a9 /it*4 ,x has n 
su* a decid$ly loop$ appe>ance1 :i* is  
sometimes an advantage4 ,to "w x 7fig4  
#cb7--;,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! top ( !  
l9e1 hold x d[n "u ! ?umb to ! left1 &  
ins]t ! ne$le to ! left ( ! trac$ l9e1  
slightly bel[ ! po9t :]e ! ?read has    
come ?r\gh4 ,br+ x out aga9 on ! trac$  
l9e1 ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* l[] d[n1 &  
draw x ?r\gh ov] ! held d[n ?read4  ,an 
entirely diff]5t effect c be obta9$ by  
work+ ?is /it* mu* clos] toge!r1 b 9    
exactly ! same way4 ,x w !n resemble a  
sat9 /it* slightly rais$ on "o side4    
,?is is kn[n z rope /it* & is at times v

 useful4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc4  ,op5 *a9 /it* 
makes a good broad l9e2 x looks be/ :5  
work$ ) a /\t ?read4 ,to c>ry out ! /it*
 7fig4 #cc7--,trace two p>allel l9es ^u 
! mat]ial1 ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t1 
& br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! top ( ! left-h&
 "o4 ,hold ! ?read d[n ) ! ?umb & ins]t 
! ne$le exactly opposite on ! o!r l9e1  
br+ x up "o-eigh? ( an in* l[] d[n &    
draw ! ?read ?r\gh ov] ! held d[n "p1   
leav+ a r slack loop ^u ! mat]ial4 ,!n  
ins]t ! ne$le on ! fir/ l9e aga91 inside
 ! slack loop1 & br+ x out "o-eigh? ( an
 in* bel[4 ,repeat ?is on ea* side      
alt]nately4 ,fig4 #cd is a draw+ f a    
piece ( :ite l95 "w 9 :i* ! op5 *a9 /it*
 is us$ 9 comb9ation ) o!r /it*es4 ,?is 
figure1 ) its op5-"w c5tre1 is repeat$  
diagonally ov] a :ite l95 clo? exhibit$ 
9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4         
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd4  ,braid /it* r 
resembles a fancy braid laid ^u !       
mat]ial4 ,x looks be/ :5 c>ri$ out ) a  
/\tly twi/$ ?read4 ,to "w x 7fig4       

#ce7--,trace two p>allel l9es ^u !      
mat]ial ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t1 &  
br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! "r-h& end ( ! l[]
 l9e4 ,?r[ ! ?read across to ! left &   
hold x slackly "u ! ?umb4 ,place ! ne$le
 po9t+ t[>ds ! work] "u ?is held ?read1 
!n twi/ x r\nd t[>ds ! left & ov] ! held
 ?read until x po9ts 9 ! opposite       
direction4 ,x w n[ h ! ?read twi/$      
loosely ov] x4 ,next1 ins]t ! ne$le on !
 upp] l9e "o-eigh? ( an in* f !         
/>t+-po9t1 & br+ x ?r\gh on ! l[] l9e   
exactly und]nea?4 ,place ! ?umb ov] !   
/it* 9 process ( mak+ & draw ! ?read    
?r\gh z ! diagram %[s4 ,x c be work$    
op5ly or m closely z pref]r$4           
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #cf4  ,cable *a9 is descriptively 
nam$1 =1 :5 work$ ) a /\tly twi/$ ?read1
 x has v mu* ! appe>ance ( a *a9 laid ^u
 ! mat]ial1 r too mu* s p]haps to be a  
pretty embroid]y /it*4 ,to "w x 7fig4   
#cf7--;,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh at ! top ( !  
trac$ l9e1 ?r[ ! ?read r\nd to ! left & 
hold x d[n ) ! ?umb ne> :]e x has come  

?r\gh ! mat]ial4 ,pass ! ne$le "u ! held
 d[n ?read f left to "r & draw x ?r\gh  
until !re is only a small loop left4    
,ins]t ! ne$le 9 ! c5tre ( ?is loop1 on 
! trac$ l9e ab\t "o-sixte5? ( an in*    
bel[ ! />t+-po9t4 ,br+ x out a qu>t] (  
an in* bel[ & outside ! loop4 ,take !   
?read 9 ! "r h& & tight5 ! loop t has n[
 be5 =m$1 & !n pass ! ?read "u ! po9t ( 
! ne$le t[>ds ! left 7see diagram74     
,place ! left ?umb ov] ! /it* 9 process 
( mak+ & draw ! ?read ?r\gh2 ?is w      
complete ! fir/ two l9ks ( ! *a92 to    
cont9ue1 repeat f ! beg9n+4  ,knott$ *a9
 is a pretty /it*2 to look well x mu/ be
 work$ ) a /\t ?read4 ,to c>ry x out    
7fig4 #cg7--,trace two p>allel l9es ^u !
 mat]ial1 ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t4  
,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! "r h& end 9 !   
c5tre betwe5 ! two l9es1 !n ins]t !     
ne$le on ! upp] l9e "o-sixte5? ( an in* 
fur!r along1 & br+ x ?r\gh on ! l[] l9e 
imm$iately bel[4 ,draw ! ?read ?r\gh &  
!re w be a %ort slant+ l9e left ^u !    
mat]ial4 ,?r[ ! ?read r\nd to ! left &  

hold x "u ! ?umb1 !n pass ! ne$le &     
?read ?r\gh ! slant+ l9e f above        
d[nw>ds1 leav+ ! ?read a little slack4  
,place ! ?read aga9 "u ! ?umb1 !n 9 !   
same way z be=e1 f above d[nw>ds1 pass !
 ne$le & ?read ?r\gh ?is slack loop4    
,?is makes ! fir/ two l9ks ( ! *a92 !   
la/ "o w n be prop]ly fix$ 9 place until
 ! next /it* is tak54 ,! dott$ v]tical  
l9e on ! diagram %[s ! piece ( mat]ial  
tak5 up by ! ne$le ^u comm5c+ ! next    
/it*4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4         
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch4  ,split /it* is
 a mo/ useful "o = _m purposes4 ,x is   
difficult to di/+ui% f a f9e *a9 :5     
done1 b 9 ! work+ x mu* m resembles /em 
/it*4 ,x c be c>ri$ out 9 ! h& or 9 a   
frame4 ,?is /it*1 frequ5tly se5 ^u      
anci5t "w1 0 mu* us$ = bo? drap]ies &   
features2 ! l9es ( ! /it*+ usually1 by  
_! direction1 express+ m\ld+ ( =m or    
folds ( drap]y4 ,to "w x 7fig4          
#ch7--;,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! l[] end (
 ! trac$ l9e1 !n ins]t ! ne$le ab\t     
"o-eigh? ( an in* fur!r along1 & br+ x  

?r\gh on ! l9e two or ?ree ?reads ne>] !
 />t+-po9t2 :il/ br++ x ?r\gh take x    
also ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! work+ ?read1 :i* 
?us splits ea* /it*4  ,,footnote3  #a   
,no4 #ahd1 #ahih4     ,,*apt] ,v        
,,/it*es--7cont9u$7    ,sat9            
,/it*--,long & ,%ort ,/it*--,/em        
,/it*--,ov]ca/   ,/it*--,back           
,/it*--,buttonhole ,/it*--,tailor's     
,buttonhole--,fancy   ,buttonhole       
,edg+s--,fl[] 9 ,op5 ,buttonhole        
,/it*--,leaf 9 ,close   ,buttonhole     
,/it*es--,petal 9 ,solid ,buttonhol+4   
,,sat9 ,,& ,,simil> ,,/it*es  ,sat9 /it*
 is p]haps ! mo/ commonly us$ ( all     
/it*es4 ,x is m quickly work$ by h&1 b =
 complicat$ "w ! help ( a frame is      
requir$4 ,floss silk ?read is se5 to    
greate/ advantage 9 a /it* ( ?is k9d1 = 
x %[s (f ! gloss9ess ( silk p>ticul>ly  
well4 ,x is /raight=w>d 9 ! work+ & ne$s
 no fur!r description ?an is giv5 by !  
diagram 7fig4 #ci74 ,! /it*es may v>y 9 
l5g?1 !y mu/ nei!r be impracticably long
 nor1 on ! o!r h&1 too mu* cut up1 le/ !

 silky effect be p>tly lo/4 ,^! /it*es  
lie close toge!r & 9 p>allel l9es2 !    
*ief diff]5ce betwe5 sat9 & sev]al o!r  
closely alli$ /it*es be+ t ^! o!rs may  
radiate or v>y 9 direction accord+ to ! 
space to be fill$4 ,! /it* is usually   
work$ 9 oblique l9es2 /ems1 leaves1 &   
petals w\ld be treat$ 9 ?is way2        
sometimes x is work$ regul>ly hav+ reg>d
 to ! w>p & wo( ( ! mat]ial2 x w\ld be  
treat$ ?us :5 us$ 9 conjunction ) cross 
or /roke /it*4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci4
  ,x w be se5 t !re is z mu* silk at !  
back z on ! front ( ! "w4 ,!re is a     
me?od ( c>ry+ out ! /it* by :i* ?is wa/e
 ( mat]ial at ! back is avoid$2 ! ?read 
is return$ to ! front close to :]e x w5t
 ?r\gh in/ead ( cross+ ov] & com+ up on 
! o!r side4 ,! effect on ! "r side1     
h[ev]1 is n s good1 s ?is me?od _c be   
recomm5d$4  ,"o ( ! te*nical            
difficulties ) sat9 /it* is to get a    
neat firm l9e at ! edges ( ! fill$      
space2 ?is is excell5tly atta9$ by !    
,*9ese & ,japanese1 :o use ?is sat9 /it*

 a great deal4 ,!y frequ5tly "w ea*     
petal ( a complicat$ fl[] sep>ately1    
leav+ z a division1 betwe5 ea* "o & !   
next1 a f9e l9e ( mat]ial firmly &      
cle>ly drawn4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj4 
,! /it* is mu* us$ = rais$ "w1 & also   
l5ds itself well to gradation ( col\r4  
,fig4 #dj is an example ( %ad+ 9 sat9   
/it*4 ,9 ?is case ea* new r[ ( /it*es   
fits 9 j betwe5 ^? ( ! la/ r[2 ?is is a 
bold b v effective me?od ( express+     
gradation4 ,a v>iation ^u ?is is %[n 9  
fig4 #db2 ! b&s ( diff]5t col\r are "h  
necess>ily work$ 9 a *evron patt]n :i*  
makes ! %ad+ r m gradual4 ,an example ( 
! same ?+ c be se5 9 fig4 #dd 9 ! leaf  
^u :i* ! squirrel sits4 ,ap>t f         
gradation ( col\r1 ! surface to be cov]$
 by sat9 /it* has (t5 to be p>tition$ up
 9 "s way 9 ord] to make ! sat9 /it*es (
 a practical l5g?4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 
#da4  ,long & %ort /it* is a v slight   
v>iation1 if any1 f sat9 /it*4 ,! "n    
describes ! me?od ( work+1 = x is c>ri$ 
out by work+ alt]nately a long & a %ort 

/it*1 ! /it*es be+ pick$ up j z 9 sat9  
/it*4 ,x is useful = close fill+s & %ad$
 "w1 & also z a solid outl9e = any k9d (
 op5 fill+4 ,! work+ ( ! /it* c be se5 9
 fig4 #da1 :]e ! b& ( lighte/ col\r on !
 upp] "p ( ! leaf is work$ 9 long & %ort
 /it*4 ,! advantage ( ?is way ( work+ c 
be se5 at once1 x makes a firm outl9e on
 ! "o edge & a nicely brok5-up "o on !  
o!r1 j ready = ano!r %ade to be work$ 94
 ,9 ord] to c>ry out ! re/ ( ! %ad+ on !
 leaf 9 ! same way ! /it*es c be all ( !
 same l5g?2 ?is w always ensure a brok5 
l9e at ! edge1 :i* is a necessity = ?is 
me?od ( gradation4 ,long & %ort /it* us$
 z an outl9e = a leaf ) an op5 fill+ c  
be se5 on page #bji4 ,! opus plum>ium or
 fea!r /it* t we read ( 9 ! descriptions
 ( ! old embroid]ies 0 a simil> /it* to 
?is1 & s call$1 "s say1 because x       
resembl$ ! plumage ( a bird4            
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db4  ,/em /it*1    
well kn[n & frequ5tly 9 use = v>i\s     
purposes1 su* z = l9es1 outl9es1 gradat$
 & flat fill+s1 & s on1 is usually done 

9 ! h&1 & is q simple2 fig4 #dc expla9s 
! work+4 ,if a broad l9e is requir$ !   
ne$le is put 9 m obliquely1 & a rais$   
effect c be obta9$ by work+ ov] a laid  
?read4 ,! ?read mu/ be kept to ! same   
side ( ! ne$le1 ei!r to ! left or to !  
"r z bett] suits ! purpose 9 h&2 !      
effect is m l9e-l :5 x is kept to ! "r4 
,occasionally1 :5 j a d\ble l9e is to be
 work$1 x is delib]ately done 9 ! two   
ways1 & !n ! l9e resembles a n>r[ plait4
 ,a solid fill+ 9 /em /it* %\ld be work$
 9 l9es z illu/rat$ 9 ! squirrel 9 fig4 
#dd4 ,?is little bea/ is tak5 f ! curta9
 %[n 9 ,plate ,,vii41 & is a good       
example ( ! life & int]e/ t !           
introduction ( su* ?+s adds to          
embroid]ies4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc4  
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd4  ,! /it*es j   
describ$ 7 l>gely us$ 9 crewel "w4 ,?is 
is a r vague "n t d5otes a decorative   
k9d ( ne$lework c>ri$ out ) col\r$ wools
 ^u a pla9 :ite l95 gr\nd4 ,! design is 
usually compos$ ( conv5tionally treat$  
leaves & fl[]s1 (t5 gr[+ f boldly curv$ 

/ems4 ,^! 7 p>tly %ad$ 9 solid /it*es1  
p>tly work$ ) geometrical op5 fill+s2   
ornam5tal birds & bea/s ( all k9ds 7    
introduc$1 & ! effect ( ! :ole 0 v      
beautiful4 ,! "w is *>act]i/ically      
,engli%1 & a great deal ( x 0 execut$ 9 
! ,x,v,i,ith c5tury4 ,plates ,,vii4 &   
,,viii4 are illu/rative ( ! type ( "w1 &
 fig4 #de repres5ts a detail4 ,! v>i\s  
/it*es :i* occur 9 ?is draw+ are /em1   
h]r+-bone1 long & %ort1 knot1 basket1   
buttonhole1 s+le *a9 & sat9 /it*es4     
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #df4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dg4    
,ov]ca/ /it* 9 embroid]y is practically 
a v %ort rais$ sat9 /it*4 ,x requires   
neat workman%ip1 & !n makes a bold cle> 
l9e or outl9e4 ,to "w x 7fig4 #df7--,run
 or c\* d[n a ?read on ! trac$ l9e1 !n )
 f9e ?read cov] ?is ov] ) close upright 
/it*es1 pick+ up z little mat]ial z     
possible ea* "t 9 ord] to make ! l9e    
cle> & r\nd4 ,! /it* is work$ mo/       
p]fectly 9 a frame4  ,back /it*         
sometimes makes a good l9e or outl9e4   

,to "w x 7fig4 #dg7--;,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh
 "o-sixte5? ( an in* f ! end ( ! trac$  
l9e1 ins]t x at ! comm5cem5t & br+ x    
?r\gh aga9 "o-sixte5? ( an in* beyond   
:]e x fir/ came out4 ,ea* /it*1 x w be  
se51 comm5ces at ! po9t :]e ! la/ "o    
f9i%$4   ,,buttonhole ,,/it* ,,& ,,its  
,,application  ,buttonhole /it*1 :i* is 
well kn[n 9 pla9 ne$lework1 is v useful 
also 9 embroid]y1 besides be+ an        
important /it* 9 ne$lepo9t lace4 ,ow+ to
 its con/ruction x is well suit$ = !    
cov]+ ( raw edges1 b x is also adaptable
 to a v>iety ( o!r purposes1 su* z are  
op5 or close fill+s ( leaves & fl[]s1   
cut "w1 & ! outl9+ ( appli$ "w4         
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dh4  ,!re are two  
ways ( =m+ ! /it*1 ! common buttonhole &
 :at is call$ tailor's buttonhole4  ,to 
"w ! ord9>y buttonhole /it* 7fig4       
#dh7--;,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh at ! left-h&  
end ( ! trac$ l9e1 hold ! ?read d[n to !
 left ) ! ?umb & ins]t ! ne$le z %[n 9 !
 diagram1 draw x ?r\gh ov] ! held ?read 
to complete ! /it*4 ,x is work$ op5ly 9 

! diagram1 b x may1 z requir$1 be ei!r m
 or less op5 or q clos$4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #di4  ,! tailor's buttonhole is = 
"s purposes m satisfactory2 ! /it* is   
firm] ?an ! o!r k9d ow+ to ! head+ hav+ 
an extra knot 9 x2 ?is makes x also m   
ornam5tal4 ,to "w x 7fig4               
#di7--;,comm5ce 9 ! same way z ! la/    
/it* until ! ne$le & ?read are 9 !      
position %[n 9 fig4 #dh !n1 ) ! "r h&   
take hold ( ! ?read ne> ! eye ( ! ne$le1
 br+ x d[n & loop x "u ! po9t f "r to   
left1 draw ! ne$le & ?read ?r\gh ov] ^! 
two loops1 & ! fir/ /it* is made4       
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ej4  ,buttonhole   
/it* c be v>i$ 9 _m ways1 dep5d5t ma9ly 
^u ! spac+ ( ! /it* & ! direction t !   
ne$le takes :5 pick+ up ! mat]ial4 ,fig4
 #ej %[s f\r simple v>ieties2 ! fir/ is 
! op5 buttonhole spac$ slightly         
irregul>ly & ) a ?read slipp$ und]nea?  
x2 any v>iety ( spac+ c be arrang$1 & ! 
?read %[n runn+ und]nea?1 :i* sometimes 
=ms a pretty addition1 is usually ( a   
contra/+ col\r or mat]ial4 ,! second %[s

 ! /it*es tak5 slant+-wise1 s t !y cross
 ea* o!r4 ,9 ! ?ird ! /it*es are at     
diff]5t angles & ( unequal l5g?4 ,! f\r?
 example %[s two l9es ( spac$ buttonhole
 /it* fitt+ neatly ! "o into ! o!r & =m+
 a solid l9e4 ,"o r[ is work$ fir/1     
leav+ j suffici5t space betwe5 ea* /it* 
= ! second r[ to fill up1 :i* c be c>ri$
 out by rev]s+ ! position ( ! mat]ial & 
exactly repeat+ ! fir/ l9e 9 ! same or 9
 a diff]5t col\r4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4  
#ea4  ,a fl[] fill$ 9 ) op5 buttonhole  
/it* is %[n at fig4 #ea4 ,! c5tre       
consi/s ( a mass ( ,fr5* knots1 & !     
outside l9e is 9 sat9 /it*4 ,! inn]mo/  
circle ( buttonhol+ is work$ fir/1 !    
next r[ is work$ ov] ! head+ ( ! fir/ r[
 z well z into ! mat]ial2 ! succe$+ r[s 
are work$ 9 ! same way until ! outside  
limit is rea*$1 & !re ! sat9 /it* j     
cov]s ! head+ ( ! la/ r[ ( buttonhole   
/it*+4 ,gradation ( col\r c easily be   
introduc$ by us+ a diff]5t %ade = ea*   
circle ( /it*es1 & ?is produces a v     
pretty effect4 ,an op5 me?od ( fill+ a  

space1 :e!r fl[]1 leaf1 drap]y1 or      
backgr\nd1 is sometimes pref]able to a  
solid fill+1 & ! two me?ods c v well be 
us$ toge!r z ea* %[s (f ! o!r4 ,^! light
 fill+s give opportunity = fur!r v>iety 
& +5uity 9 ! /it*+1 & prev5t ! "w f     
look+ heavy4 ,a butt]fly1 c>ri$ out     
p>tly 9 op5 /it*es1 is illu/rat$ 9 fig4 
#eb4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eb4  ,fig4   
#ec is1 9 ! orig9al1 a gay little fl[]  
c>ri$ out 9 orange & yell[4 ,! /it*     
employ$ "h is a close buttonhole4       
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ec4  ,ano!r example
 ( ! use ( close buttonhole is %[n 9 !  
ivy leaf 9 fig4 #ed4 ,! /it* is work$ 9 
two r[s1 back to back1 9 ea* lobe ( !   
leaf1 & ! result+ ridge d[n ! c5tre r   
happily sugge/s ! ve9+4 ,?is me?od (    
fill+ 9 might be j rev]s$ = a rose leaf2
 ! head+ ( ! /it* w\ld !n sugge/ !      
s]rat$ edge1 & ! meet+ ( ! two r[s d[n !
 c5tre ! l9e ( ! ve94  ,illu/ration3    
,fig4 #ed4  ,a clu/] ( b]ries c be v    
prettily work$ 9 buttonhole /it* 9 ! way
 %[n 9 fig4 #ee4 ,! /it*es are s arrang$

 t ! head+ outl9es ea* b]ry1 & ! ne$le  
ent]s ! mat]ial at ! same po9t1 always 9
 ! c5tre4 ,a bullion /it* 9 a d>k] col\r
 m>ks ! eye ( ! b]ry4  ,illu/ration3    
,fig4 #ee4  ,a good me?od ( fill+ a     
space ) solid buttonhole /it*+ is %[n 9 
fig4 #ef4 ,ea* r[ is work$ into ! head+ 
( ! prec$+ r[1 & ! /it*es d n pi]ce !   
mat]ial except 9 ! fir/ r[ & at !       
extremities ( succe$+ r[s4 ,!y are plac$
 r close toge!r 9 ord] to completely    
cov] ! gr\nd4 ,! /it* is work$1 fir/1 f 
left to "r1 !n = ! next r[ f "r to left2
 ?is is q easy & enables ! "w to be     
cont9u\sly c>ri$ out4 ,sometimes1 :5 !  
fir/ r[ is done1 ! ?read is ?r[n across 
to ! side :]e ! r[ began1 & !re made    
fa/2 !n ! second r[ is work$ ) /it*es   
:i* take up ! ?r[n ?read z well z !     
head+ ( ! fir/ r[4 ,by us+ a m op5      
buttonhole & ?us p>tly expos+ ! laid    
?read1 a fill+1 bo? quick & effective1  
is obta9$4 ,?is is a useful me?od to    
employ :5 ! "w is done ov] a padd+ (    
?reads1 = !re is no necessity to pi]ce !

 mat]ial except at ! edges4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ef4     ,,*apt]    
,,vi  ,,/it*es--7cont9u$7    ,knots &   
,knot ,/it*es--,h]r+-bone ,/it*--,fea!r 
,/it*--,basket   ,/it*--,fi%bone        
,/it*--,cretan ,/it*--,r\manian         
,/it*--,v>i\s   ,ins]tion               
,/it*es--,picots4   ,,knots ,,& ,,knot  
,,/it*es  ,x w\ld be difficult to g f> 9
 embroid]y )\t requir+ knots = "o       
purpose or ano!r4 ,!y are useful 9 all  
sorts ( ways1 & make a pleasant contra/ 
to ! o!r /it*es4 ,= ! enri*m5t ( bord]  
l9es & v>i\s p>ts ( ! "w1 bo? patt]n &  
backgr\nd1 !y are mo/ s]viceable1 & also
 = solid fill+s2 = su* places z c5tres (
 fl[]s or p>ts ( leaves1 !y are aga9    
valuable4 ,!y h be5 us$ to =m a cont9u\s
 outl9e1 b ow+ to _! t5d5cy to make a   
weak l9e1 n frequ5tly2 inde$ !y usually 
%[ to bett] advantage :5 slightly       
sep>at$4  ,examples are to be se5 (     
,engli% knott$ l9e "w 9 :i* ! knott+ 0  
execut$ 9 ! ?read previ\sly to embroid]+
 ) x4 ,! knott+ ( ?read 0 a pa/ime )    

ladies 9 ! ,x,v,i,ith c5tury4 ,! ?read1 
usually a l95 "o & z a rule home spun1 0
 w\nd ^u a nett+-ne$le1 & by ! aid ( ?is
 a close s]ies ( knots 0 made ^u x2 :5  
f9i%$ x some:at resembl$ a /r+ ( beads4 
,balls ( ?is prep>$ knott$ ?read may    
/ill be f\nd1 treasur$ up 9 old "w      
receptacles4 ,:5 prep>$ x 0 c\*$ on to !
 mat]ial ) f9e ?read1 l a cord or braid1
 & made to foll[ out "s pre>rang$       
patt]n4 ,9 :ite l95 "w x 0 us$ = c>ry+  
out ornam5tal bord]+s on infants' robes 
& o!r da9ty articles4  ,illu/ration3    
,fig4 #eg4  ,fr5* knots c be work$ 9 !  
h& or 9 a frame4 ,!y are easi] to manage
 9 ! latt]1 & to look well !y mu/ be    
neatly & firmly made4 ,complet$ !y %\ld 
resemble beads ly+ end upw>ds on !      
mat]ial4 ,to "w ! ,fr5* knot 7fig4      
#eg7--;,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh ! mat]ial at !
 requir$ po9t1 take hold ( x ) ! left   
f+] & ?umb ne> ! />t+-po9t 7,a on plan71
 !n let ! po9t ( ! ne$le encircle ! held
 ?read twice1 twi/ ! ne$le r\nd & ins]t 
x at po9t ,b on plan1 draw ! ?read ?r\gh

 to ! back1 n lett+ g ! held ?read until
 necess>y4 ,fig4 #eh %[s "s ,fr5* knots 
decorat+ a leaf spray1 & v>i\s o!r      
examples ( _! use c be f\nd 9 ! book4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eh4  ,bullion knots
 resemble tight curls ( ?read laid on ! 
mat]ial4 ,!y c be us$ z a v>iation f    
,fr5* knots1 & ev5 = ! repres5tation (  
petals & small leaves4 ,to be           
satisfactory !y mu/ be firm1 /\t1 &     
tightly coil$2 "s knack is requir$ to   
make !m prop]ly4 ,to "w ! bullion knot  
7fig4 #ei7--;,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at !    
requir$ place1 ins]t ! ne$le "o-eigh? ( 
an in* f ?is po9t & br+ x ?r\gh aga9    
exactly at x4 ,take hold ( ! ?read ab\t 
two in*es f :]e x came ?r\gh & twi/ x   
sev]al times r\nd ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 !   
numb] ( times be+ dep5d5t on ! requir$  
l5g? ( ! knot4 ,place ! left ?umb ^u !  
tight coil on ! ne$le1 9 ord] to keep x 
9 place1 & draw ! ne$le & ?read ?r\gh x1
 !n pass ! ?read ?r\gh to ! back at !   
po9t :]e ! ne$le 0 la/ ins]t$ 7po9t ,a  
on plan74 ,! ?umb mu/ n be remov$ until 

x is 9 ! way4 ,fig4 #fj repres5ts a     
fl[]1 ( :i* ! c5tre is =m$ ( bullion    
toge!r ) ,fr5* knots4  ,illu/ration3    
,fig4 #ei4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fj4    
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fa4  ,fig4 #fa %[s 
a knott$ /it* t is simil> 9 result to ! 
knott$ ?reads discuss$ e>li] 9 ! *apt]4 
,9 ?is case ! knott+ ( ! ?read & ! fix+ 
to ! mat]ial is done at ! same "t4 ,x is
 a useful /it* :5 a jagg$ l9e is want$1 
& c be se5 us$1 = in/ance1 = ! bran*+   
ve9s 9 op5 "w leaves1 z 9 fig4 #fb4 ,!  
diagram expla9s ! work+ ( ! /it*2 at    
po9t ,a on ! plan ! left ?umb holds !   
?read d[n :il/ ! /it* is 9 progress4    
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fb4                
,,miscellane\s ,,/it*es  ,illu/ration3  
,fig4 #fc4  ,! /it* illu/rat$ at fig4   
#fc is v simil> to ! common h]r+-bone4  
,! only practical diff]5ce is t 9 ! pla9
 ne$lework /it* !re is usually a small] 
piece ( mat]ial pick$ up by ! ne$le ea* 
"t4 ,to "w x z 9 ! diagram--,trace two  
p>allel l9es on ! mat]ial & br+ ! ?read 
?r\gh at ! comm5cem5t ( ! l[] l9e1 ins]t

 x on ! opposite l9e r f>!r along & !re 
pick up a /it*1 z ! ne$le is do+ 9 !    
figure4 ,!n on ! opposite l9e pick up a 
simil> /it* a little 9 advance ( ! "o j 
f9i%$4 ,aft] ?is "w ! /it*es on ei!r l9e
 alt]nately1 comm5c+ ea* "o at ! po9t   
:]e ! la/ "o end$2 ?is =ms on ! und]side
 a d\ble r[ ( back /it*es4 ,x is q easy 
to "w ?is /it* ) ! back /it*es on !     
work+ side1 & :5 !y are requir$ to be on
 ! surface x is advisable to d x 9 t    
way4 ,:5 embroid]+ ^u a semi-transp>5t  
mat]ial ?is /it* is a satisfactory "o to
 use1 ! back /it*+ foll[s out ! outl9e  
on ei!r side ( ! =m1 & ! cross+ ( !     
?reads on ! "u side %[s ?r\gh prettily4 
,?is /it* sometimes goes by ! "n ( d\ble
 back /it*4 ,x is useful 9 _m ways1 mak+
 a light /it* = /ems1 leaves1 or fl[]s2 
x c be sometimes f\nd 9 ,ea/]n "w us$ = 
an entire embroid]y4 ,:5 us$ = fl[]s or 
leaves ! wid? & ! clos5ess ( ! /it* are 
v>i$ to suit ! %ape to be fill$4 ,an    
example ( its use z a fl[] fill+ is %[n 
9 ! c>nation at fig4 #fd1 :i* is c>ri$  

out 9 f\r %ades ( col\r4 ,consid]able   
use is made ( ?is /it* 9 embroid]$      
curta9 %[n 9 ,plate ,,vii42 x is !re    
employ$ = all ! /ems & v>i\s fl[]s ^u ! 
hang+4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fd4        
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fe4  ,! fea!r /it*1
 (t5 us$ to decorate pla9 ne$lework1 is 
n[ to be discuss$2 al?\gh simil> 9 "n x 
mu/ n be confus$ ) ! fea!r or plumage   
/it* t has already be5 m5tion$4 ,! /it* 
is s simple & s mu* 9 use z h>dly to ne$
 description2 fig4 #fe expla9s ! work+4 
,!re c be _m slight v>iations ( ! /it*1 
! work] p]haps devis+ !m ne$le 9 h&4    
,two are %[n 9 fig4 #ff4 ,! "o to ! left
 is work$ v l ! ord9>y /it*2 ! ne$le    
picks up ! mat]ial 9 a /raight l9e      
in/ead ( slightly obliquely1 & ea* /it* 
t\*es ! "o imm$iately above2 x is "h    
made use ( z a c\*+ /it*1 a bun* (      
?reads ( a contra/+ col\r is laid on !  
mat]ial1 & ! /it* work$ ov] x f side to 
side4 ,! "r-h& example %[s ! ord9>y     
fea!r /it* work$ m closely & 9 a broad] 
l9e2 c>ri$ out 9 ?is way1 x c be us$ = a

 leaf fill+4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ff4  
,basket /it*1 useful = a solid l9e1 %[s 
up v cle>ly :5 work$ ) a /\t twi/$      
?read4 ,?is /it* w\ld be appropriately  
us$ :5 appli$ to "s repres5tation (     
basket "w4 ,to c>ry out ! diagram 7fig4 
#fg7--,trace two p>allel l9es on !      
mat]ial1 & to comm5ce1 br+ ! ?read ?r\gh
 on ! left-h& l9e1 !n ins]t ! ne$le on !
 "r-h& l9e ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* l[]   
d[n & br+ x ?r\gh on ! left-h& l9e      
exactly opposite 7see ne$le 9 fig472 !  
next /it* is work$ by ins]t+ ! ne$le on 
! "r-h& l9e b above ! la/ /it*1 t is at 
po9t ,a on diagram1 & br++ x ?r\gh at   
,b4 ,to cont9ue1 repeat f ! beg9n+4     
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fg4  ,a p>ticul>ly 
good l9e = a bord] is made by fi%bone   
/it*4 ,x c be work$ 9 "o col\r1 or z    
easily 9 a *equ]+ ( two or ?ree1 z %[n 9
 ! diagram 7fig4 #fh72 to c>ry x out 9  
?is way ! work] mu/ h two ?reads 9 use1 
br++ ?r\gh ea* z requir$4 ,= su*        
purposes z ! fill+s ( small leaves1 ?is 
/it* is v useful 7see fig4 #eh74 ,!     

meet+ ( ! /it*es 9 ! c5tre sugge/ ! ve9+
 l9e1 also ! *ange 9 direction ( ! ?read
 gives1 to ! two sides ( ! leaf1        
pleasant v>iation 9 tone4 ,to "w        
x--,trace ?ree p>allel l9es ^u ! mat]ial
 & br+ ! ?read ?r\gh on ! upp] l9e at ! 
left-h& end4 ,ins]t ! ne$le & br+ x     
?r\gh z 9 process 9 ! diagram1 !n repeat
 ! same /it* on ! o!r side ! rev]se way1
 t is1 ins]t ! ne$le j ov] ! c5tral l9e 
& br+ x ?r\gh on ! upp] "o close to !   
la/ /it*4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! /it*es   
cross well ov] ea* o!r at ! c5tre1 or ! 
mat]ial w %[ ?r\gh4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4
 #fh4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fi4  ,! /it*
 %[n 9 fig4 #fi1 kn[n z plait or        
,cretan1 is commonly se5 on ,cretan &   
o!r ,ea/]n embroid]ies4 ,x c be us$ z a 
solid bord] /it* or z a fill+1 v>y+ 9   
wid? z requir$4 ,to "w x--,br+ ! ?read  
?r\gh on ! l[] c5tral l9e1 !n ins]t !   
ne$le on ! upp]mo/ l9e & br+ x ?r\gh on 
! next bel[ z 9 process 9 ! diagram2 !n1
 /ill keep+ ! ?read to ! "r1 ins]t !    
ne$le imm$iately und]nea? on ! l[e/ l9e 

& br+ x ?r\gh on ! l9e next above1 9    
fa%ion simil> to ! la/ /it*1 b 9 rev]se 
direction4 ,to cont9ue1 "w ! /it*       
alt]nately on "o side & ! o!r1 always   
keep+ ! ?read to ! "r ( ! ne$le4 ,9 ord]
 to make ! c5tral plait broad] take up r
 less mat]ial ) ! ne$le2 ?is w decrease 
! out] & increase ! inn] l9es4 ,fig4 #gj
 is tak5 f a ,cretan embroid]y1 9 :i*   
?is /it* is ma9ly us$4  ,illu/ration3   
,fig4 #gj4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ga4    
,ano!r simil> b m simple /it*1 (t5 se5 9
 ,ea/]n "w1 is %[n 9 fig4 #ga4 ,x c also
 frequ5tly be f\nd employ$ on ,x,v,i,ith
 c5tury ,engli% wool "w hang+s4 ,x is   
sometimes call$ ,r\manian /it*1 & is    
compos$ ( "o long /it* cross$ by a %ort 
"o 9 ! c5tre4 ,to "w x--,trace two      
p>allel l9es on ! mat]ial & br+ ! ?read 
?r\gh on ! left-h& l9e at ! top4 ,ins]t 
! ne$le on ! opposite l9e & br+ x ?r\gh 
ne> ! c5tre1 z %[n 9 process 9 !        
diagram4 ,= ! next half ( ! /it* ! ne$le
 ent]s ! mat]ial at po9t ,a on plan1 &  
is br\ght ?r\gh aga9 on ! left-h& l9e   

close to ! la/ /it*1 & s 9 position to  
comm5ce aga94 ,an illu/ration ( ?is /it*
 9 use z a fill+ c be se5 at fig4 #gb4  
,x is work$ 9 f\r %ades ( gre5 wool1 &  
ea* l9e ( /it*es is s arrang$ z to      
encroa* slightly on ! l9e be=e by means 
( sett+ ea* /it* j betwe5 two ( ! la/   
r[4 ,?is me?od ( work+ has two          
advantages2 ! %ad+ is ?us made m        
gradual1 & a pleasant undulat+ effect is
 giv5 to ! surface ( ! leaf4 ,?is c be  
mo/ easily und]/ood by a practical trial
 ( ! /it* & me?od4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 
#gb4   ,,ins]tion ,,/it*es  ,!re is     
occasion sometimes 9 embroid]y to jo9   
edges toge!r visibly4 ,?is gives an     
opportunity = "s additional pretty      
/it*+--! addition ( some?+ l ?is1 t is  
p]haps n absolutely necess>y1 has extra 
value f ! evid5ce x gives ( ! work]'s   
int]e/ & delight 9 h] "w1 a quality     
always appreciat$2 on ! o!r h&1 "w done 
f ! motive ( gett+ a result ) z little  
lab\r z possible is valu$ at j its wor?4
  ,^! ins]tion /it*es are useful = jo9+ 

toge!r edges ( cu%ion cov]s1 bags1      
deta*$ b&s1 also = ! ornam5tation (     
dress1 & = embroid]ies ^u :i* drawn     
?read "w is n possible4 ,a /\t ?read is 
usually suitable = ! purpose4 ,! raw    
edges mu/ fir/ be turn$ 9 & flatt5$1 & !
 p>ts to be jo9$ c if necess>y be tack$ 
9 place on a tempor>y gr\nd su* z toile 
ciree4  ,fig4 #gc illu/rates a twi/$    
ins]tion /it* t is quickly execut$ & v  
frequ5tly us$4 ,! diagram suffici5tly   
expla9s ! work+ )\t fur!r description4  
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gc4  ,buttonhole   
/it* c be turn$ to acc\nt = ?is purpose4
 ,fig4 #gd %[s ! tailor's buttonhole us$
 z an ins]tion /it*2 = ?is purpose x is 
! bett] ( ! two k9ds ( buttonhole4 ,!   
/it*es c\ld be arrang$ 9 v>i\s ways2 9 !
 pres5t example ?ree are work$ closely  
toge!r on ei!r side 9 turn4 ,! only     
difficulty ) ?is buttonhole ins]tion is 
t on "o side ! /it* has to be work$ 9   
direction contr>y to t usual1 t is f "r 
to left in/ead ( f left to "r4 ,9 !     
diagram ! ne$le is %[n work+ 9 ?is      

rev]se way4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gd4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ge4  ,fig4 #ge is a
 knott$ ins]tion /it*2 ! knot at ea*    
side makes ! /it* a v rigid "o4 ,to "w  
x--,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh at ! l[] left-h&  
side1 ins]t ! ne$le on ! upp] side a    
little t[>ds ! "r1 draw ! ?read ?r\gh1 &
 !n tie ! knot on x z 9 process 9 !     
diagram4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gf4  ,a r
 m complicat$ jo9+ /it* is %[n 9 fig4   
#gf4 ,x c\ld be c>ri$ out ) diff]5t     
col\r$ ?reads4 ,! two sides mu/ be fir/ 
work$ ) ! edg+1 :i* is practically !    
braid /it* describ$ on page #hh4        
,comm5ce ! /it* 9 exactly ! same way z  
:5 c>ry+ out braid /it*1 b "w on ! edge 
( ! mat]ial z 9 buttonhol+1 ! work+ edge
 9 ?is case be+ away f ! work]4 ,let !  
work]1 hav+ rea*$ ! po9t ( pull+ ! ?read
 ?r\gh to complete ! /it*1 draw x out 9 
! direction away f h]4 ,?is w draw !    
/it* t[>ds ! edge1 :]e x w =m a knot4 ,9
 ! diagram "o ( ! /it*es has be5 p>tly  
undone 9 ord] to %[ ! work+ m cle>ly4   
,:5 ! two sides are b\nd ) ! /it*1 !y c 

be lac$ toge!r ) ano!r ?read z 9 !      
illu/ration4   ,,picots  ,picots are    
commonly 9 use 9 lace "w & !y are       
sometimes requir$ = embroid]y purposes1 
especially 9 ! k9ds ( "w ne>ly alli$ to 
lace1 su* z cut "w1 or = an add$ ornam5t
 to an edg+ /it*4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4  
#gg4  ,fig4 #gg %[s too small picots    
add$ to a buttonhole b>1 & on ! l[] b>  
is %[n ! me?od ( work+ ! left-h& picot4 
,! p9 t passes into ! mat]ial beh9d ! b>
 c be fix$ 9 ! b> itself if !re happ5s  
to be no mat]ial und]nea?4 ,aft] rea*+ !
 po9t illu/rat$ 9 ! diagram1 ! ne$le    
draws ! ?read ?r\gh1 ?us mak+ a firm    
knot r\nd ! loop4 ,?is completes !      
picot1 ! b> is !n buttonhol$ to ! end4  
,! second picot is made 9 mu* ! same    
way2 in/ead1 h[ev]1 ( putt+ ! ne$le z ! 
diagram %[s1 br+ ! ?read up ?r\gh !     
c5tre ( ! loop1 !n r\nd "u ! p9 f left  
to "r1 & x w be 9 position to make ?ree 
buttonhole /it*es along ! loop1 :i*     
completes ! second example4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gh4  ,! upp] b> on 

fig4 #gh %[s a buttonhol$ picot4 ,! b>  
mu/ be work$ to ! left-h& end ( !       
requir$ picot2 ! ?read is !n f !re tak5 
back ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* & ?read$    
?r\gh ! edge ( ! buttonhole4 ,?is is    
repeat$ to & fro until !re is a loop    
compos$ ( ?ree ?reads ready to be       
buttonhol$ ov]4 ,^u ?is be+ done1 !     
?read w h arriv$ at ! "r po9t to cont9ue
 ! b>4  ,bullion /it* makes ano!r simple
 picot--,"w ! b> to ! po9t :]e ! picot  
is requir$1 !n1 in/ead ( tak+ ! next    
/it*1 ins]t ! po9t ( ! ne$le 9 ! head+ (
 ! la/ /it*4 ,leave ! ne$le 9 ?is       
position1 & twi/ ! ?read six or eight   
times r\nd ! po9t ( x1 j z = ! bullion  
knot 7fig4 #ei74 ,place ! left ?umb ov] 
! tight coil ?us =m$1 & pull ! ne$le &  
?read ?r\gh tightly 9 ord] to make !    
/it* d\ble up into a tight semi-circle1 
!n cont9ue ! buttonhol+ to ! end ( ! b>4
     ,,*apt] ,,vii  ,,canvas ,,"w ,,&   
,,/it*es                                
,introduction--,sampl]s--,petit ,po9t   
,pictures--,cross ,/it*--,t5t           

,/it*--,gobel9 ,/it*--,iri%             
,/it*--,plait ,/it*--,two-sid$          
,italian ,/it*--,holbe9 ,/it*--,rococo  
,/it*4   ,canvas "w1 kn[n 9 ! ,x,i,i,ith
 c5tury z opus pulv9>ium or cu%ion "w1  
is ( great antiquity1 & seems to h _h an
 indep5d5t orig9 9 sev]al c\ntries4 ,x  
is sometimes giv5 ! mislead+ "n (       
tape/ry1 p]haps ow+ to hang+s ( all k9ds
 be+ call$ tape/ries1 :e!r loom-wov51   
work$ ) ! ne$le1 or pa9t$4 ,l>ge wall   
hang+s ) designs simil> to ^? ( wov5    
tape/ries h be5 mo/ successfully c>ri$  
out on canvas 9 cross or t5t /it*2 z a  
rule1 h[ev]1 small] objects are work$1  
su* z furniture cov]+s1 scre5s or       
cu%ions1 :5ce x is obvi\s canvas "w     
receiv$ its anci5t & descriptive ,lat9  
"n4 ,_m ,ea/]n c>pets are work$ ^u a    
/rong canvas 9 a k9d ( t5t /it*1 & s    
come "u ! head+ ( canvas "w4 ,x is a    
p>ticul>ly durable me?od ( embroid]+1 & 
?is makes x suitable = use ^u any?+     
subject$ to h>d we>4  ,! "w has usually 
a v decid$ & attractive "* ( its own4 ,a

 famili> example ( ?is c be se5 9 !     
,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury sampl]s4 ,its       
peculi> "* is p]haps due to ! fact t x  
_c break away f a c]ta9 conv5tionality  
due to con/ant use ( ! same /it*1 & its 
dep5d5ce ^u ! web ( ! fabric4 ,?is      
regul>ity prev5ts ! "w f %[+ c]ta9      
faults ( design t o!r me?ods may        
exagg]ate4 ,x is h>dly possible to copy 
a natural spray ( fl[]s 9 cross /it* &  
keep x v naturali/ic4 ,! /it* be+ squ>e 
& alike all ov] gives a =mality (       
treatm5t to e "p ( ! design1 also1 "s   
detail is p]=ce omitt$ ow+ to !         
impossibility ( putt+ x 92 all ( ?is    
t5ds to a "r me?od ( treatm5t1 :i* r5d]s
 ! sampl] an admirable lesson n only 9  
workman%ip b also 9 design4  ,! ,x,v,ith
 & ,x,v,i,ith c5tury pictorial subjects 
work$ ^u f9e canvas 9 cross or t5t /it* 
af=d in/ances ( mo/ int]e/+ "w 9 canvas 
/it*es4 ,"s ( ^!1 ?\gh1 z a rule1 v mu* 
small] 9 size1 equal1 9 _! way1 ! f9e/  
tape/ries4 ,mo/ ( !m1 if judg$ f a      
pa9t]'s /&po9t1 w\ld be pron\nc$        

failures1 b ?is effect is n :at is s\ght
 aft]2 ! me?od ( treatm5t belongs r to !
 great traditions ( ! tape/ry weav]1 &  
is n gov]n$ by ! canons ( ! pa9t]4      
,plate ,,vi4 %[s a detail ( foliage f a 
p>ticul>ly f9e example ( ?is "w lately  
add$ to ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum    
collection4#b  ,9 :at w5t by ! "n (     
,b]l9 wool "w1 popul> 9 ! e>ly ,x,i,xth 
c5tury1 we h be=e u a deg5]ate (f%oot ( 
?is f9e & poetic k9d ( "w 9 :i* all its 
possibilities are miss$1 ) a result t is
 prosaic 9 ! extreme4 ,"s ( ! canvas-"w 
seat cov]s decorat$ ) geometrical       
designs1 se5 on ,*ipp5dale *airs1 7 a   
pleasant & satisfactory v>iation 9 _!   
way1 b 9 mo/ ( ! "w aft] t p]iod1 !     
attempt at impossible naturali/ic effect
 gave su* unsatisfactory results z to   
almo/ deal a dea? bl[ to all canvas     
embroid]y4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 a me?od too    
good & useful to die out2 x mu/ always  
be m or less 9 vogue4  ,patt]ns c>ri$   
out 9 canvas /it*es are sometimes to be 
se5 work$ app>5tly ^u velvet or simil>  

gr\nd mat]ials4 ,?is is done by fir/    
lay+ ! canvas ^u ! velvet & /it*+ ?r\gh 
bo? mat]ials2 ?is w\ld h to be c>ri$ out
 9 a frame4 ,! ?reads ( ! canvas are    
aft]w>ds ei!r )drawn or closely cut (f4 
,9 ! =m] case1 ! /it*es mu/ be drawn    
tight1 or ! f9i%$ "w w n look well4 ,?is
 me?od has ! advantage ( sav+ ! lab\r ( 
work+ ! backgr\nd1 & sometimes x suits !
 patt]n to h a contra/ 9 ! gr\nd        
mat]ial4 ,9 old embroid]ies1 h]aldic    
devices may be se5 successfully treat$ 9
 ?is way4  ,! usual canvas /it*es c be  
work$ ^u o!r fabrics t h an ev5 & squ>e 
me%1 su* z v>i\s k9ds ( l952 also o!r   
embroid]y /it*es1 su* z /em1 sat91 or   
*a91 c be us$ ^u canvas2 !y are !n      
always work$ ) a c]ta9 regul>ity1 foll[+
 ! web ( ! mat]ial4  ,canvas "w c be    
done 9 ! h& or 9 a frame1 b ! te*nique  
is (t5 bett] 9 "w done 9 a frame4 ,9    
all-ov] "w x is important t n ev5 a     
sugge/ion ( ! gr\nd fabric %\ld be all[$
 to %[ ?r\gh2 = ?is reason "w 9 light   
col\rs %\ld be done on :ite canvas1 &   

vice v]sa1 z f> z possible1 also ! ?read
 us$ mu/ suit 9 ?ickness ! me% ( !      
canvas4 ,to "w a pla9 gr\nd well is less
 easy ?an to "w ! patt]n1 ?\gh x may    
s\nd m simple4 ,! back ( ! "w1 ?\gh n   
necess>ily simil> to ! front1 mu/ be    
alike 9 /it* all ov]1 = ! direction !   
/it* takes at ! back affects ! regul>ity
 ( appe>ance ( ! front4 ,! /it* mu/ n be
 comm5c$ 9 exactly ! same place 9 ea*   
r[1 le/ a ridge %\ld appe> ^u ! surface2
 ?is c be avoid$ by us+ ?reads ( diff]5t
 l5g?s4 ,a gr\nd is usually comm5c$ at !
 l[] left-h& corn]1 & a patt]n1 if a    
complicat$ "o1 f ! c5tre outw>ds4 ,^!   
te*nical po9ts are ( importance1 b !y   
are ( little value unless ! /it*es are  
at ! same "t express+ an int]e/+ &      
suitable design4  ,! /it*es us$ are     
exce$+ly num]\s2 ^? describ$ 9 ! foll[+ 
pages are ! v>ieties mo/ commonly se54  
,cross /it*1 ! be/ kn[n 9 ?is gr\p1 c be
 work$ 9 slightly diff]5t ways1 accord+ 
to ! purpose = :i* x is requir$4 ,on !  
surface x is always ! same1 b x c v>y at

 ! back4 ,= in/ance1 :5 us$ = m>k+      
purposes x %\ld =m on ! rev]se side ei!r
 a cross or a squ>e1 to d ei!r ( :i*    
dem&s "s +5uity on ! "p ( ! work]4 ,=   
ord9>y "w ! really correct me?od is to  
complete ea* /it* be=e go+ on to ! next1
 ?\gh gr\nd+ is frequ5tly done by work+ 
! fir/ half ( ! /it* along an entire    
l9e1 & complet+ ! cross ^u a return     
j\rney4 ,9 any case1 ! cross+ mu/ always
 be work$ 9 ! same direction4  ,cross   
/it* is a d\ble /it* work$ diagonally   
ov] two ?reads ( ! canvas ea* way4 ,x c1
 h[ev]1 be tak5 ov] m or few] ?reads if 
requir$ l>g] or small]4 ,to "w x 7fig4  
#gi7--;,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh on ! upp] left
 side ( ! ?reads to be cov]$1 & take x  
back aga9 on ! l[] "r1 !n br+ x ?r\gh on
 ! upp] "r side & return x to ! back on 
! l[] left1 :i* completes ! fir/ /it*4  
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gi4  ,t5t /it*     
7fig4 #hj7 is ! f9e/ canvas /it*1 & is  
!re=e suitable = "w involv+ mu* detail4 
,pictorial & h]aldic subjects are       
frequ5tly c>ri$ out 9 x4 ,x is work$    

diagonally ov] a p]p5dicul> & horizontal
 ?read ( ! canvas4 ,! diagram %[s !     
me?od ( work+ bo? back & front4 ,x w be 
notic$ t ?\gh ! l9e goes alt]nately f   
left to "r & f "r to left1 ! /it* is    
always ! same at ! back z well z ! same 
^u ! front2 if ?is 7 n s1 alt]nate r[s  
w\ld h a diff]5t appe>ance ^u ! "r side4
 ,! diagram does n %[ ! connection      
betwe5 ! fir/ & ! second r[1 b x is     
evid5t t x mu/ be a %ort upright l9e4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hj4  ,gobel9 /it*  
is a useful v>iety2 x l5ds itself to    
%ad+ bett] ?an cross /it*4 ,x is mo/ (t5
 work$ ^u a f9e s+le canvas1 & x c be   
us$ z a rais$ /it*4 ,fig4 #ha repres5ts 
! /it*2 x is work$ simil>ly to t5t /it* 
b ov] two ?reads 9 height & "o 9 wid?1  
no matt] :e!r ! s+le or d\ble ?read     
canvas is us$4 ,9 ord] to "w x z a rais$
 /it*1 a l9e ( "s k9d ( padd+ is ?r[n   
across ! canvas1 & ! /it* tak5 ov] x4   
,?is l9e c be arrang$ to %[ 9 "p1 9 :i* 
case ! mat]ial mu/ be "o pres5table1 su*
 z a gold cord or n>r[ braid4 ,! padd+  

w\ld be cov]$ ) /it*+ to =m ! backgr\nd1
 & left expos$ = ! patt]n1 :i* w\ld     
probably be a simple repeat+ =m ( "s    
k9d4 ,gobel9 /it* is sometimes work$ q  
p]p5dicul>ly j ov] two ?reads 9 height4 
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ha4  ,iri% /it* is 
pretty & quickly work$4 ,x is usually   
tak5 p]p5dicul>ly ov] f\r ?reads ( !    
canvas 7fig4 #hb71 ?\gh ! numb] ov] :i* 
x is tak5 may v>y4 ,x is work$ 9 su* a  
way z to make ! /it*es ( ea* succe$+ r[ 
fit betwe5 ^? ( ! la/ r[1 & c be c>ri$  
out ei!r diagonally or 9 horizontal     
l9es4 ,:at is kn[n z ,flor5t9e "w is    
c>ri$ out 9 a /it* ( ?is k9d4 ,! patt]n 
9 ?is k9d ( "w is tak5 horizontally     
across ! gr\nd 9 a succession ( %ad$    
zigzag l9es4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hb4  
,plait /it* is (t5 us$ = gr\nd+4 ,x     
resembles a simple plait laid 9 close   
r[s to & fro on ! gr\nd4 ,x c frequ5tly 
be se5 us$ ^u ! ,italian ,x,v,ith c5tury
 l95 "w1 t 9 :i* ! patt]n is left 9 pla9
 l951 & ! gr\nd work$ 9 "s col\r4 ,!    
diagram 9 fig4 #hc %[s ! me?od ( work+ !

 /it*4 ,if c>ri$ out correctly1 ! back (
 ! mat]ial %\ld %[ a r[ ( %ort          
p]p5dicul> l9es1 ea* compos$ ( two      
?reads4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hc4       
,two-sid$ ,italian /it* is descriptively
 nam$1 = x is alike on bo? sides4 ,?is  
is frequ5tly se5 on ,x,v,ith &          
,x,v,i,ith c5tury ,italian l95 "w1      
simil> to t m5tion$ above4 ,a loosely   
wov5 l95 makes a suitable gr\nd mat]ial1
 = 9 ! work+ ! /it*es mu/ be pull$      
firmly1 s z to draw ! ?reads ( ! fabric 
toge!r2 ?is gives ov] ! gr\nd a squ>$   
op5-"w effect1 :i* is v pretty4 ,fig4   
#hd expla9s ! work+ ( ! /it*2 x is %[n 9
 f\r /ages1 & is q simple2 ! f9al result
 is a cross surr\nd$ by a squ>e4 ,! l[e/
 figure 9 ! diagram %[s ! la/ /age1 = ! 
upp] side ( ! squ>e is fill$ 9 :5 ! r[  
above is work$4 ,! draw+ toge!r ( ! web 
is n %[n1 b at a trial x %\ld be done1 =
 9 t lies ! special "* ( ! /it*4 ,! silk
 us$ mu/ be j ?ick en\gh to well cov] ! 
l951 b n too ?ick1 = !n ! "w w\ld be    
clumsy4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hd4       

,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #he4  ,holbe9 /it*  
7fig4 #he71 also kn[n z /roke or l9e    
/it*1 is alike on bo? sides1 & is (t5   
us$ 9 conjunction ) cross & sat9 /it*1 z
 well z alone4 ,v intricate & int]e/+   
patt]ns c be devis$ to be c>ri$ out ) ^!
 ?ree /it*es1 work$ always ) reg>d to ! 
web ( ! l954 ,squ>$ pap] c\ld be us$ =  
plann+ ! design1 z ! /it*es w\ld all be 
practically ( ! same l5g?1 & ! patt]n   
mu/ be "o t c be easily c>ri$ out alike 
on bo? sides4 ,! /it* is work$ z foll[s3
 ,an ev5 runn+ /it*1 pick+ up z mu*     
mat]ial z x leaves1 is tak5 all r\nd !  
patt]n4 ,?is does half ! "w on ei!r     
side2 ! gaps are !n fill$ up by ! runn+ 
/it* be+ tak5 9 a contr>y direction1 :i*
 completes ! patt]n4 ,occasionally      
/it*es g (f at an angle f ! runn+       
patt]n2 ^! are complet$ on ! fir/ j\rney
 by a sat9 /it* be+ made at ! necess>y  
po9t4 ,! pres5t diagram is a zigzag l9e1
 ) "o ( ^! /it*es go+ (f at ea* angle4  
,fig4 #hf is an example ( a bord] design
 c>ri$ out 9 ,holbe9 /it*4              

,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hf4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #hg4  ,! /it* illu/rat$ 9 fig4 #hg
 is kn[n z rococo /it*4 ,x is a useful  
"o = c>ry+ out a conv5tional design1 su*
 z1 to give a simple illu/ration1 a fl[]
 sprig repeat+ 9 ! spaces =m$ by a      
trellis patt]n4 ,! effect ( ! /it* :5   
work$ _c be judg$ f ?is diagram2 to see 
?is prop]ly a piece ( canvas mu/ be     
work$ entirely ov] ) x4 ,! patt]n *os5  
is usually "o t l5ds itself to be+ work$
 9 diagonal l9es1 z ?is /it* is be/     
work$ 9 t way4 ,x entirely hides !      
canvas backgr\nd1 & is c>ri$ out v      
simil>ly to ! ori5tal /it* 9 fig4 #ga4  
,by ! help ( t diagram & description & !
 pres5t "o1 :i* gives v>i\s /eps1 !     
work] w easily ma/] ! /it*1 :i* is q    
simple4 ,! ord9>y c>ry+ out ( ! /it* is 
%[n :]e ! ne$le is at "w1 & 9 ano!r "p !
 diagram1 by "s loos5$ /it*es1          
illu/rates h[ to pass f "o clu/] to !   
next4  ,"s f9e examples ( canvas "w     
design1 introduc+ a v>iety ( /it*es1 may
 be se5 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 

,^! are l>ge panels fill$ ) foliage &   
fl[]s gr[+ ab\t ar*itectural columns4#c 
,,footnotes3  #b ,no4 #hgi1 #aijd4  #c  
,no4 #eag-ebb1 #ahif4     ,,*apt] ,,viii
  ,,me?ods ,,( ,,"w    ,c\*+--,braid    
,"w--,laid ,"w--,appli$ ,"w--,inlaid    
,"w--,pat*   ,"w4   ,,c\*+  ,c\*+ is !  
"n giv5 to a me?od ( embroid]y 9 :i* "o 
?read is atta*$ to ! mat]ial by ano!r   
"o4 ,sometimes n only "o ?read b a numb]
 ( ?reads are c\*$ d[n toge!r2 or x may 
be cord1 braid1 or metal ?read t is     
atta*$ to ! mat]ial 9 ?is way4 ,fig4 #hh
 %[s "s c\*+ 9 progress4 ,! me?od       
probably arose ?r\gh ! difficulty       
exp]i5c$ 9 pass+ ei!r co>se or v        
delicate ?reads ?r\gh a mat]ial4 ,c\*+  
is con/antly 9 use ) gold ?read         
embroid]y1 & x is fur!r discuss$ 9 !    
*apt] ^u t subject1 :]e also is describ$
 an entirely diff]5t me?od1 :i* is to be
 recomm5d$ = c\*+ o!r z well z = gold   
?reads4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hh4  ,c\*+
 is useful 9 a v>iety ( ways1 e4g4 =    
c>ry+ out "w 9 l9e or = outl9+ o!r      

embroid]y1 appli$ "w = in/ance1 :i* is  
frequ5tly f9i%$ (f by means ( a c\*$    
?read2 9 ! case ( a difficult gr\nd     
mat]ial1 x is "o ( ! mo/ manageable     
me?ods ( work+4 ,! geometrical op5      
fill+s ( leaves & backgr\nds are (t5    
compos$ ( l9es ( ?read ?r[n across &    
c\*$ d[n at regul> int]vals4 ,fig4 #hi  
is an example ( a fav\rite fill+ ( ?is  
k9d4 ,embroid]y /it*es c be made use ( =
 c\*+ d[n o!r ?reads2 a bun* ( ?reads   
may be laid ^u ! mat]ial1 & an op5 *a91 
buttonhole1 or fea!r /it* work$ ov] 9   
ord] to fix x 9 place4  ,illu/ration3   
,fig4 #hi4  ,braid "w is quickly &      
easily execut$2 x ne$s only a suitable  
patt]n & a pretty braid = c\*+ d[n to be
 mo/ successful4 ,!re are a few po9ts to
 be obs]v$ ab\t ! te*nique--! cut edge (
 a braid is awkw>d to manage1 = x mu/1 )
 a special ne$le1 be tak5 ?r\gh to !    
back ( ! mat]ial & !re made secure &    
flat2 = ?is reason ! design %\ld be s   
plann$ z to h z few breaks z possible4  
,int]lac+ /rap "w designs1 ( :i* a      

simple example is giv5 9 fig4 #ij1 are v
 suitable = braid "w4 ,! ?read t c\*es  
d[n ! braid may be q invisible1 or1 on !
 o!r h&1 x may be made use ( to fur!r   
decorate ! braid by be+ plac$ visibly   
across x1 p]haps =m+ a *equ]+ or o!r    
simple patt]n1 z %[n 9 fig4 #ia4        
,ravell+s ( ! braid may be us$ z        
invisible c\*+ ?reads = /it*+ x d[n4    
,curves & %>p corn]s ne$ special        
att5tion by way ( extra /it*es4 ,!      
complet$ "w is mu* improv$ by sev]al    
h\rs' pressure "u a weight4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ij4   ,,laid ,,"w  
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ia4  ,laid "w might
 be describ$ z c\*+ on a m ext5d$       
scale--a giv5 space is cov]$ ) ?reads   
tak5 f side to side 9 p>allel l9es close
 toge!r1 fix$ at ei!r extremity by ent]+
 ! mat]ial4 ,fur!r security is usually  
giv5 by small c\*+ /it*es dott$ d[n at  
int]vals ov] ! laid ?reads1 or by ?r[+  
s+le l9es ( ?read across 9 a contr>y    
direction & ty+ ^! d[n at int]vals )    
c\*+ /it*es4 ,yet ano!r way is1 to "w a 

split or /em /it* ov] ! laid ?reads1 &  
?us fix !m d[n4 ,fig4 #ib %[s a fl[]    
c>ri$ out 9 laid "w4 ,! ty+-d[n ?reads c
 (t5 be made use ( 9 "o way or ano!r to 
fur!r decorate1 or to expla9 =m1 by     
means ( contra/+ col\r1 *ange 9         
direction1 & s on4 ,! laid /it*es 9 ?is 
fl[] are tak5 f ! c5tre outw>ds & fix$ 9
 place by c\*$ circul> l9es ( ?read4 ,! 
c5tre ( ! fl[] has a geometrical fill+1 
compos$ ( a c\*$ lattice patt]n ) ,fr5* 
knots betwe54 ,conv5tional c5tres ( ?is 
& l k9ds are v pretty = embroid]y fl[]s2
 su* patt]ns z ^? %[n 9 fig4 #ic c (t5  
be se5 9 use1 & !y ne$ only a trial to  
be frequ5tly adopt$4  ,illu/ration3     
,fig4 #ib4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ic4    
,laid "w %[s (f ! gloss & texture ( silk
 to great advantage1 :i* is due to !    
?read be+ laid ^u ! mat]ial )\t be+ cut 
up into small /it*es4 ,floss silk is mu*
 us$ = ! "w2 x mu/ n be at all twi/$ 9 !
 lay+ d[n1 s9ce ?is m>s ! effect4 ,! "w 
is c>ri$ out 9 a frame2 x is quickly    
execut$ & economical1 ! ?read be+       

practically all ^u ! surface4 ,ow+ to ! 
l5g? ( ! /it*es1 ?is is n a v durable   
me?od1 s x %\ld n be subject$ to h>d    
we>4 ,! "w has sometimes a flimsy1      
unsatisfactory appe>ance1 probably      
because ( ^! long /it*es4 ,x w be se5 t 
! silk pass+ ?r\gh to ! back1 & !n      
imm$iately to ! front aga91 takes up v  
little ( ! mat]ial4 ,a me?od 9 use =    
giv+ great] /r5g? 9 ?is way is to lay ! 
silk fir/ 9 alt]nate l9es & to fill up !
 gaps ?us left ^u a second j\rney across
 ! =m4 ,= add$ /r5g?1 use might be made 
( a l95 ?read at ! back1 z 9 ! po9t c\*e
 r5tre ou retire me?od t is discuss$    
lat]4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #id4  ,a gold
 ?read outl9e gives a nice f9i% to laid 
"w4 ,if !re is no?+ 9 ! way ( an outl9e1
 & ! patt]n & gr\nd are bo? cov]$ ) laid
 ?reads1 ! edges ( ! patt]n are likely  
to look weak4 ,fig4 #id %[s a leaf fill$
 9 ) r loosely laid ?reads & outl9$ &   
ve9$ ) gold pass+1 ! ve9+ answ]+ ! d\ble
 purpose ( fix+ d[n ! laid ?reads & ve9+
 ! leaf at ! same "t4  ,9 ?is "w1 !     

col\r+ is frequ5tly 9 flat tones1 b if  
necess>y x is q easy to introduce       
gradation4 ,fur!r v>iety c be obta9$ by 
a contra/ 9 col\r 9 ! ty+-d[n ?reads4   
,,appli$ ,,"w  ,! anci5t ,lat9 t]m opus 
consutum1 & ! mod]n ,fr5* "o applique1  
:i* is p]haps ! "n mo/ commonly 9 use1  
bo? ref] to ! same k9d ( "w2 :at is n[  
call$ cut "w is q diff]5t f ?is1 & is   
describ$ else:]e4 ,"u ! head+ ( appli$  
"w comes any?+ t1 cut out ( "o mat]ial1 
is appli$ to ano!r2 x may h be5         
previ\sly embroid]$1 or x may be j !    
pla9 /uff4 ,bo? k9ds c1 z has be5 prov$1
 be c>ri$ out ) excell5t effect1 b mu*  
unsuitable & badly design$ "w has be5   
done by ?is me?od1 ) ! result t ! v "n  
has fall5 into disrepute4  ,! simple/   
k9d ( appli$ "w is t 9 :i* ! design1    
trac$ ^u "o mat]ial1 !n cut out along ! 
outl9e ( ! patt]n1 is appli$ to ano!r   
mat]ial1 ! junction ( ! two mat]ials be+
 hidd5 by a cord or suitable /it*4 ,!   
appli$ "w is mo/ (t5 flat1 b x c be 9   
slight or 9 /rong relief4 ,! texture ( !

 mat]ials employ$ may be an important   
factor 9 ! result1 = a contra/ 9 mat]ial
 z well z 9 col\r is (t5 want$2         
sometimes ! =m] alone is suffici5t4 ,!  
*oice ( mat]ial dep5ds v mu* ^u ! use to
 :i* ! f9i%$ "w w be put1 b ?is simple  
=m ( appli$ "w (t5 relies = "p ( its    
effect ^u an intr9sic int]e/ 9 !        
mat]ial1 s x is usually c>ri$ out ) su* 
mat]ials z velvet1 sat91 or silk1 ei!r  
pla9 or figur$4  ,! design = ?is k9d (  
"w %\ld be ( a bold conv5tional type1   
su* z l>ge foliage ) ! "* ( ! h]aldic   
mantl+2 any naturali/ic fl[]s1 figures1 
or animals easily become grotesque4 ,a  
simple outl9e to ! =ms is necess>y1 bo? 
because ( ! te*nical difficulties & = ! 
effect ( ! f9i%$ "w4 ,?is k9d ( "w is   
h>dly suitable = express+ f9e detail2   
(t5times x is se5 f a di/ance1 & _m     
ind5tations on an outl9e sometimes t5d  
to weak5 x4 ,h]aldry c be well express$ 
by ?is me?od4 ,fig4 #ie is an example f 
a piece ( ,x,i,i,ith c5tury "w1 a       
fragm5t ( ! surcoat ( ,william de       

,=tibus1 ?ird ,e>l ( ,albem>le1 :o liv$ 
9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii42 ! example c be
 se5 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,?is me?od (  
"w is also p>ticul>ly suitable = su*    
purposes z ! decoration ( wall surfaces1
 = hang+s ( v>i\s k9ds1 or bann]s2 x c1 
h[ev]1 be us$ = _m o!r purposes1 provid$
 ! design & ! mat]ials are well *os54   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ie4  ,ow+ to !     
difficulty ( work+ ^u "s gr\nd /uffs1 ! 
me?od has aris5 ( c>ry+ out ! embroid]y 
^u an easily work$ gr\nd1 su* z l952    
cutt+ x out1 :5 f9i%$1 along ! outl9e & 
apply+ x to ! prop] gr\nd1 ! junction ( 
! two mat]ials be+ hidd5 by a cord or "s
 equival5t4 ,x is usually fur!r complet$
 by light sprays or "s o!r k9d ( f9i%+  
t\*es be+ plac$ ar\nd ! appli$ "p1 ^!   
work$ directly on to ! prop] gr\nd4 ,?is
 prev5ts ! embroid]y f look+ too bald & 
deta*$ f its surr\nd+s1 ( :i* !re is    
always a dang] :5 x is c>ri$ out        
sep>ately & !n atta*$2 if at all        
possible x is always m satisfactory to  
"w directly on to ! "r gr\nd4  ,z a     

matt] ( fact x is almo/ always possible 
to d ?is2 ! work]s ( ! ,x,i,i,ith       
c5tury1 ! p]iod at :i* ! art ( embroid]y
 0 at its height1 c>ri$ out ! mo/       
exquisitely f9e /it*+ & design on su*   
gr\nds z velvet t _h almo/ z long a pile
 z "s v>ieties ( plu%4 ,! fam\s cope (  
,engli% "w kn[n z ! ,b[d5 cope1 ( :i* a 
detail is giv5 9 ,plate ,i41 is an      
excell5t illu/ration ( ?is po9t4 ,^u    
c>eful exam9ation ( ! "w x is app>5t t  
betwe5 ! /it*+ & ! velvet !re is a lay] 
( mat]ial1 compos$ ei!r ( f9e l95 or    
silk4 ,?is w\ld be ( great help 9 !     
c>ry+ out ( ! /it*+4 ,x is exce$+ly     
probable t ?is lay] ( f9e mat]ial 0 at !
 comm5cem5t ( ! "w laid completely ov] !
 velvet backgr\nd ( ! cope2 = "o ?+1 !  
design1 ) its f9ely drawn detail1 c\ld  
easily be p]fectly trac$ ^u a surface ( 
?is k9d & only imp]fectly ^u velvet2    
ano!r advantage ( ?is me?od w\ld be1 t !
 backgr\nd w\ld be kept q free f du/ & f
 gett+ soil$ by ! h&s dur+ ! l5g?y      
process ( ! "w4 ,! /it*+ w\ld be c>ri$  

?r\gh all ! surfaces1 & :5 f9i%$1 ! f9e 
surface lay] w\ld be cut away close r\nd
 ! edges ( ! design1 :i* w\ld be q      
easily done4 ,?is me?od ( work+ ^u a    
difficult gr\nd is well wor? try+ 9     
place ( ! appli$ me?od4  ,to return to !
 discussion ( appli$ embroid]y--let u   
suppose ! embroid]$ piece to be j       
complet$ on its l95 gr\nd1 /ill /ret*$ 9
 ! frame 9 :i* x 0 work$4 ,9 ano!r      
frame1 /ret* ! backgr\nd mat]ial & trace
 ^u x ! exact outl9e ( ! piece to be    
appli$4 ,cut out ! embroid]$ piece      
c>efully r\nd ! edge1 all[+ ab\t        
"o-sixte5? ( an in* m>g9 outside ! work$
 "p1 leav+1 if necess>y1 little connect+
 ties ( mat]ial "h & !re = tempor>y     
support4 ,) f9e /eel p9s or ne$les fix !
 cut-out "w exactly ov] ! trac+ already 
made on ! gr\nd mat]ial1 !n make x      
secure r\nd ! edge ) r close /it*es (   
silk plac$ at "r-angles to ! outl9e2 )  
f9e mat]ials ! raw edge ( ! appli$ "p c 
be neatly tuck$ "u & fix$ 9 place by ?is
 ov]ca/ /it*4 ,a cord is next sewn on to

 hide ! fix+ & give a f9i% to ! edge4 ,!
 col\r ( ?is cord is important1 s9ce its
 col\r may increase ! expanse ( ei!r !  
appli$ "p or ! gr\nd4 ,sometimes a d\ble
 cord is put r\nd1 & 9 ?is case ! inn]  
"o is atta*$ to ! embroid]y be=e x is   
cut out ( ! frame1 & ! second atta*$    
aft]w>ds4 ,! inn] "o is (t5 ( a col\r   
pr$om9at+ 9 ! embroid]y1 & ! out] "o ( !
 col\r ( ! gr\nd4 ,gold cord is v usual2
 if a col\r$ silk "o is us$ x mu/ be a  
p]fect mat*4 ,! ord9>y twi/$ cord looks 
be/ atta*$ invisibly2 to d ?is1 slightly
 untwi/ x :il/ /it*+1 & ins]t ! ne$le 9 
! op5+ ?us =m$4 ,"s k9ds ( flat braids  
look well ) ! fix+ /it*es tak5          
delib]ately ov] !m & =m+ "p ( !         
ornam5tation 7see fig4 #ia74 ,bun*es (  
silk are sometimes c\*$ r\nd ) a        
buttonhole or o!r /it*1 b :atev] !      
outl9e may consi/ (1 x %\ld be a firm   
bold l9e4  ,! "w mu/ be p]fectly flat :5
 complet$4 ,puck]+ may occur ?r\gh want 
( c>e 9 ! prelim9>y /ra9+ or 9 ! fix+ on
 ( ! appli$ p>ts4 ,"s mat]ials are m    

easy to manage ?an o!rs4 ,! difficult   
ones c if necess>y h a prelim9>y back+  
appli$1 :i* is useful also if ! mat]ial 
is incl9$ to fray4 ,! back+ may consi/ (
 a ?9 coat+ ( embroid]y pa/e1 or (      
tissue pap] or f9e holl& pa/$ ov] ! "p  
to be appli$4 ,! m all ?is k9d ( ?+ c be
 avoid$1 ! bett] ! "w1 = pa/+ ( any k9d 
is apt to give a /iff me*anical look2   
also1 if ! "w is int5d$ to hang 9 folds 
any /iffness w\ld be mo/ impracticable4 
,ev5 m ?an simpl] "w appli$ embroid]y   
ne$s ! f9i% ( "s light "w ^u ! gr\nd4   
,gold ?reads & spangles1 arrang$ 9      
fa%ion simil> to ! sprays 9 fig4 #aab1  
are v (t5 us$4 ,sometimes1 in/ead ( ?is1
 "s small patt]n 9 outl9e is run all ov]
 ! gr\nd 9 ord] to enri* x4   ,,inlaid  
,,"w  ,inlaid "w is 9 effect simil> to !
 appli$1 & x is us$ = ! same purposes4  
,! diff]5ce ) ?is is t bo? backgr\nd &  
patt]n are cut out & fitt$ into ea* o!r1
 in/ead ( only "o ( !m be+ cut out &    
laid on an entire gr\nd4 ,! me?od ( "w  
is economical1 = !re ne$ be v little    

wa/e ( mat]ial4 ,:at is left f cutt+ out
 ! patt]n & backgr\nd = "o piece c be   
us$ z gr\nd & patt]n = ano!r & possibly 
companion piece4 ,!re is 9 ,p]ugia a    
*ur* :i* possesses a complete set (     
drap]ies ( ?is description1 t 7 made at 
a good p]iod = ?is "w1 e>ly ,x,v,ith    
c5tury1 & evid5tly 7 design$ = !        
position !y occupy4 ,on fe/ivals1 !     
pi]s1 pulpit1 & p>ts ( ! wall are hung )
 ^! rose & gold-col\r$ hang+s ( inlaid  
"w4 ,! design is a conv5tional scroll-"w
 patt]n1 & ! v>i\s hang+s h alt]nately !
 rose gr\nd ) gold patt]n1 & gold gr\nd 
) rose patt]n1 ! :ole =m+ a ri* &       
h>moni\s int]*ange ( col\r4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #if4  ,fig4 #if is  
an example ( inlaid "w4 ,x is a ,x,vth  
c5tury tab>d said to h belong$ to ,*>les
 ! ,bold1 & n[ 9 ! ,musee ,hi/orique at 
,b]ne4 ,! patt]n1 x w be notic$1 is     
plann$ on ! c\nt]*ange pr9ciple1 :i* is 
p>ticul>ly well suit$ = ?is me?od ( "w4 
,a v anci5t piece ( ! same k9d ( inlaid 
"w is ! fun]al t5t ( ,que5 ,isi-em-,keb1

 dat$ ab\t #ihj ,b4,c41 :i* is 9 !      
,b\lak ,museum1 ,cairo4 ,x is compos$ ( 
?\s&s ( pieces ( gazelle hide dy$ 9     
v>i\s col\rs & /it*$ toge!r s z to =m a 
wond]ful design4#d  ,to c>ry out !      
"w--,/it* 9 a frame "s holl& to use z a 
backgr\nd2 ?is may be only tempor>y1 be+
 remov$ :5 ! "w is complet$1 or x may be
 left = additional /r5g?4 ,! mat]ials = 
bo? backgr\nd & patt]n mu/ fir/ be      
c>efully cut out4 ,x is a good plan1 :]e
 possible1 to cut ! two toge!r s z to   
ensure exact simil>ity1 = !y h to fit   
toge!r aft]w>ds l ! p>ts ( a puzzle4 ,! 
cut edges _c be all[$ to fray1 s if !re 
is any dang] ( ?is1 precautions mu/ be  
tak5 to prev5t x1 ?\gh ! bett] way is to
 *oose 9 ! fir/ place m suitable        
mat]ial4 ,lea!r is a p>ticul>ly good    
example ( "o4 ,any pa/+ or back+ :i*    
might be us$ = prev5tion ( fray+ w\ld   
prev5t also t possibility ( expos+ bo?  
sides ( ! "w1 :i* 9 inlay is sometimes a
 valuable quality2 also1 ! /iff5+ :i*   
unavoidably results f pa/+ is r>ely an  

improvem5t4 ,:5 mat]ials ( diff]5t      
?icknesses are us$ toge!r1 ! ?9n] "o c  
be l9$ ) f9e holl& s z to make x ne>]   
equal 9 /r5g?4 ,aft] ! mat]ials are cut 
out ! next process is to lay !m 9       
position on ! prep>$ holl& & tack !m to 
x4 ,!n1 ) an ov]ca/ /it* t mu/ n be     
all[$ to pi]ce ! "u surface1 jo9 all !  
edges toge!r1 & cov] ! /it*es ) a f9i%+ 
cord or braid4 ,! back+ c n[ be remov$  
if ne$ be4   ,,pat*work  ,pat*work c    
h>dly atta9 to a high position among/ ! 
v>i\s bran*es ( embroid]y4 ,! ma9 object
 ( do+ pat*work frequ5tly is to make    
good use ( valuable scraps ( wa/e       
mat]ial4 ,unless1 h[ev]1 ! product %[s  
evid5ce ( well ?\ght out col\r &        
arrangem5t1 x _c come "u ! head+ (      
embroid]y4 ,int]e/+ results1 h[ev]1 ( _m
 k9ds c be produc$ f ?is pa9t-box (     
brightly col\r$ scraps ( mat]ial by     
+5i\s mix+ & %ap+ ( !m4 ,pat*work inf]s 
a r m mosaic-l design ?an inlaid "w1 to 
:i* x is 9 "s respects simil>4 ,!       
geometrically plann$ mosaic & inlay     

pavem5ts t are to be se5 s commonly 9   
,italy & ! ,ea/ sugge/ great v>iety (   
patt]ns t c\ld be appli$ to pat*work4 ,!
 illu/ration at fig4 #ig is a simple    
example tak5 f ?is s\rce4 ,too (t5 !    
results are only al>m+1 z ! ,c\ntess (  
,wilton expressively puts x1 ?9k+1      
probably1 ( ! patt]ns frequ5tly se5 ^u  
cu%ions1 patt]ns m resembl+             
bright-col\r$ bricks set 9 corn]wise ?an
 any?+ else4 ,!y are ! mo/ unre/ful     
look+ ?+s imag9able4 ,! important       
elem5ts ( ! "w lie 9 ! col\r1 %ape1 &   
texture ( ! pieces us$1 = ^u ! "r       
selection ! result :olly dep5ds4 ,!     
%apes *os5 mu/ be simple ow+ to !       
necessity ( fitt+ & /it*+ !m toge!r1 b  
!re is pl5ty ( v>iety obta9able )       
simplicity4 ,! design may consi/ ( "o   
%ape repeat$ or sev]al4 ,if only "o1 x  
is limit$ to a few geometrical figures1 
su* z ! squ>e1 hexagon1 or %ell %ape2 if
 m ?an "o1 !re c be great] v>iety (     
patt]n4 ,fig4 #ih is an example 9 :i*   
f\r %apes are made use (1 a l>ge & small

 circle1 an octagon1 & an ,s-l twi/4    
,f\r ( ^! twi/s toge!r make ! figure t  
int]laces ov] ! surface4 ,embroid]y     
/it*+ c be add$ to pat*work2 = in/ance1 
?is example might h a neat bord] patt]n 
work$ on all ! ,s-%apes1 z sugge/$ 9 !  
diagram1 :i* w\ld probably consid]ably  
increase its int]e/4 ,fig4 #ii %[s fl[]s
 spr++ f ! base ( ! %ell-=m 9 use ^u x4 
,! embroid]y c\ld be simply c>ri$ out 9 
"o col\r1 or if a m gorge\s result 7    
requir$1 v>iety c\ld be introduc$ 9 ?is 
way z well z 9 ! gr\nd1 & a m>vell\s    
comb9ation ( intricate col\r c\ld be ?us
 produc$4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ig4     
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ih4  ,= ! "w to be 
made up satisfactorily x is necess>y t !
 %apes be accurately cut out4 ,to ensure
 ?is1 a metal plate is cut & all ! %apes
 are tak5 f x2 sometimes1 9 lieu ( ?is1 
a patt]n is cut out 9 /iff c>dbo>d4 ,lay
 ?is patt]n-%ape on ! wrong side ( !    
mat]ial & p5cil x r\nd1 !n c>efully cut 
out ! /uff1 leav+ ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* 
= turn+ 94 ,next lay ! patt]n-%ape ^u a 

piece ( /iff pap] or ?9 c>d-bo>d & aga9 
trace (f ! %ape1 ?is "t cutt+ x out     
exactly to ! patt]n1 tack ! mat]ial to !
 pap]1 & /it* d[n ! raw edges at ! back4
 ,lay ! prep>$ pat*es on a table & put  
!m 9 place by ref]r+ to ! design1 & !n  
comm5ce sew+ ! edges toge!r ) an ov]ca/ 
/it* on ! wrong side4 ,:5 all are sewn1 
remove ! pap]s & flatt5 ! seams ) an    
iron4 ,any braid or /it* t may be       
requir$ to mask ! jo9 is next put on2   
?is may be made ornam5tal by int]lac+   
knots at ! corn]s1 or by any o!r device 
t happ5s to suit ! "w4 ,! la/ ?+ to be  
done is to put a neat l9+ ^u ! back to  
cov] & protect ! num]\s raw edges4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ii4  ,,footnote3   
#d ,= fur!r in=mation see ,! ,fun]al    
,t5t ( an ,egyptian ,que51 by ,villi]s  
,/u>t4     ,,*apt] ,,ix  ,,me?ods ,,(   
,,"w--7cont9u$7     ,quilt+--,rais$     
,"w--,d>n+--,op5 ,fill+s--,d>n$ ,nett+4 
,quilt+ is a me?od ( work+ by :i* ?ree  
mat]ials are fix$ toge!r by m or less   
all-ov] /it*+4 ,x probably develop$     

?r\gh ! necessity ( keep+ ! ?ree lay]s 9
 place4 ,= practical purposes only1 !   
sew+ ma*9e does ! "w excell5tly1 b by   
mak+ ! /it*+ foll[ out "s pre>rang$     
design1 x is rais$ to ! level ( art4    
,plate ,,iii4 is an int]e/+ example %[+ 
:at c be done 9 ! way ( design ) ! /it*+
 ov] ! surface4 ,embroid]y may be add$  
to ! quilt+1 & ?is is (t5 an improvem5t4
 ,! ,ea/]n nations c>ry out m>vell\sly  
intricate designs 9 quilt+1 & ,engli%   
,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury "w ( ?is k9d %[s    
,ea/]n influ5ce /rongly4 ,a good example
 ( ?is is a v int]e/+ piece 9 !         
,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4#e  ,! fir/  
aim 9 quilt+ 0 evid5tly w>m?1 & ! "n    
d5otes "o ( ! *ief uses to :i* x is put4
 ,x is made use ( also = curta9s1       
infants' caps or gloves 7see fig4 #ajj71
 all ^! ?+s requir+ ! ?ree lay]s = w>m?4
 ,! mat]ials usually consi/ ( a surface 
"o1 :i* c be silk1 f9e l95 or any?+     
else2 an int]l9+ ( "s s(t] mat]ial hav+ 
a c]ta9 am\nt ( spr+ 9 x1 su* z flannel1
 cotton wadd+1 or wool2 & = ! ?ird1 an  

und]nea? l9+ ( "s k9d4 ,a cord is       
sometimes ins]t$ in/ead ( ! inn] lay] ( 
/uff1 ! l9es ( /it*+ runn+ along ei!r   
side to keep x 9 place4 ,occasionally   
!re are only ! top & ! "u lay]1 ) no    
int]v5+ mat]ial4 ,! /it* usually employ$
 is a runn+1 back1 or *a9 /it*1 & x c be
 ( ! col\r ( ! surface1 or a contra/ to 
x4 ,gold silk is (t5 se5 ^u a :ite l95  
gr\nd4 ,! *ief int]e/ 9 ! "w lies 9 !   
*oice ( patt]n1 su* ?+s z col\r1 v>iety 
( /it*+1 int]e/ 9 mat]ial1 are n made   
mu* (4 ,9 plann+ ! patt]n1 use is made (
 ! k t ! closely /it*$ p>ts w lie m     
flatly1 s x frequ5tly happ5s t ! gr\nd  
has a small diap] runn+ ov] x1 & !      
patt]n "p1 be+ less work$ ^u1 p]haps    
only outl9$1 /&s out m & =ms an         
effective contra/4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 
#ajj4   ,,rais$ ,,"w  ,9 ! ,x,i,vth     
c5tury rais$ "w 0 commonly done1 b few  
examples are kn[n ( date e>li] ?an ?is4 
,! rais$ effect is obta9$ by an int]pos$
 lay] ( padd+1 :i* is a good me?od (    
gett+ a c]ta9 k9d ( effect4 ,x is p]haps

 wise to err on ! side ( too little r   
?an too mu* relief4 ,an example ( too   
mu* & also ( a wrong k9d is ! ,engli%   
/ump "w t 0 popul> 9 ! ,x,v,i,ith       
c5tury1 :5 figures 7 /uff$ l dolls1 !   
clo!s made sep>ately & atta*$1 ev5 to ! 
%oes & /ock+s4 ,g]ma9 de ,/4 ,aub91     
writ+ 9 #agfi1 describes ) mu*          
admiration a k9d ( brod]ie en ronde     
bosse1 app>5tly mu* ! same ?+ & 9       
equally d\btful ta/e1 ?\gh ! skill      
requir$ to c>ry x out mu/ h be5         
consid]able4  ,! "w1 usually done 9 a   
frame1 mu/ be well c>ri$ out te*nically2
 ! padd+ %\ld be q p]fect 9 ! =m requir$
 be=e ! f9al surface lay] is work$ ov]  
x1 = ?is "o w n make any defici5cy "r1 b
 w only s]ve to %[ x up ! m4 ,ano!r po9t
 to be c>eful ab\t is to make ! padd+   
/op well )9 ! trac$ l9e ( ! patt]n1     
o!rwise ! f9i%$ design w turn out mu*   
l>g] ?an 0 orig9ally int5d$4 ,! outl9e  
is sometimes work$ r\nd at ! comm5cem5t1
 :]eby its correctness is ensur$4       
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aja4  ,illu/ration3

 ,fig4 #ajb4  ,_m diff]5t mat]ials are  
br\ght into use = padd+ purposes4 ,"o ( 
! simple/ & mo/ durable is a runn+ (    
?read z illu/rat$ 9 fig4 #aja4 ,! ?read 
c be arrang$ s z to be ?ick] 9 ! c5tre  
?an at ! edges by lay+ "s extra /it*es  
ov] t "p4 ,if a q flat padd+ is requir$1
 ! %ape1 cut out 9 clo?1 felt1 or       
p>*m5t1 is atta*$ by /it*es to ! mat]ial
 z %[n 9 fig4 #ajb2 ! surface /it*+ w\ld
 be tak5 across x4 ,c>dbo>d1 sometimes  
pa/$ on to ! gr\nd1 is us$ = ?is        
purpose1 b x is unsatisfactory 9 sev]al 
ways2 = in/ance1 c>dbo>d lett]s are     
procurable = embroid]+ initials ^u l951 
b !y are n at all practical = any?+ t   
goes ?r\gh ! wa%2 moreov]1 ! lett]s are 
sometimes ( bad design4 ,cotton wool is 
us$ z a /uff+1 its surface be+ usually  
cov]$ ov] ) musl91 b ?is aga9 w\ld n /& 
mu* we> ( any k9d1 & s c\ld only be us$ 
"u c]ta9 conditions4  ,illu/ration3     
,fig4 #ajc4  ,ano!r good me?od is to c\*
 d[n a hank ( ?reads ( f9e cotton or    
p]haps wool z illu/rat$ 9 fig4 #ajc4 ,= 

rais$ l9es !re is a special k9d ( /r+   
procurable t c be c\*$ to ! gr\nd       
mat]ial at ! requir$ places4 ,! padd+1  
:atev] x may be compos$ (1 %\ld be z    
ne>ly z possible ( ! same col\r z !     
surface lay]1 9 view ( any aft] we> &   
te> misplac+ ! ?reads4  ,illu/ration3   
,fig4 #ajd4  ,! top lay] ( und]lay mu/  
lie 9 direction contr>y to ! surface    
embroid]y /it*+1 :i* is v (t5 "s =m (   
sat9 /it* tak5 f side to side ov] !     
padd+4 ,in/ead ( go+ ?r\gh ! mat]ial x c
 be fix$ on ea* side ) a c\*+ /it*1 z 9 
fig4 #ajd4 ,a /rong] way ?an ^! w\ld be 
t %[n 9 fig4 #abi4 ,buttonhole is a good
 /it* = work+ ov] a padd+2 x w\ld be    
work$ solidly 9 ! mann] describ$ &      
illu/rat$ on page #aag1 b tak51 z !re   
%[n1 ov] a padd+ in/ead ( ov] a flat    
surface4   ,,d>n+  ,!re is a mo/        
practical s\nd ab\t d>n+2 x c1 h[ev]1 be
 made good use ( 9 embroid]y z well z 9 
pla9 ne$lework4 ,!re are two r diff]5t  
k9ds 9 use2 9 bo? ! /it* is a runn+ "o &
 done 9 mu* ! same way t a ?9 place w\ld

 be d>n$ 9 m5d+4  ,"o k9d ( d>n+ is r   
popul> at ! pres5t mom5t1 & examples ( x
 may be famili>2 x is a l>ge1 bold k9d (
 "w1 (t5 c>ri$ out ) a co>se twi/$ silk4
 ,^u ! backgr\nd1 ! l9es ( /it*+ usually
 run /raight across or up & d[n1 9 !    
patt]n1 !y radiate accord+ to ! %ape ( !
 =m to be fill$4 ,! entire mat]ial is   
cov]$ "o way or ano!r by ! runn+ /it*es1
 & j "o ?read ( ! gr\nd fabric is pick$ 
up :]e necess>y at irregul> int]vals2 a 
loosely wov5 l95 is (t5 *os5 = work+ ^u1
 "o 9 :i* x is easy to pick up ! s+le   
?read4 ,gradation ( col\r c easily be   
introduc$2 ! design *os5 is mo/         
frequ5tly "s k9d ( conv5tional fl[] &   
leafy scroll4 ,?is me?od ( embroid]y is 
se5 to be/ advantage :5 us$ ^u l>ge     
surfaces4  ,! second k9d is call$ patt]n
 d>n+2 9 x ! /it*es are pick$ up 9 "s   
regul> ord]1 s t !y =m v>i\s geometrical
 patt]ns ov] ! surface4 ,x is work$ by  
c\nt+ ! ?reads ( ! f9e l95 gr\nd & pick+
 up a s+le ?read or m 9 "s regul>       
sequ5ce4 ,! ?reads are run 9 p>allel    

l9es close toge!r1 ei!r horizontally or 
v]tically1 s z to take advantage ( ! web
 ( ! fabric4 ,! "w is p>ticul>ly pretty 
& n difficult1 requir+ only pati5ce &   
good eyesight4 ,fig4 #aje gives "s      
simple examples ( ! "w--,! fir/ is a    
*evron patt]n1 =m$ by pick+ up "o ?read 
& leav+ ab\t five ea* "t2 ea* succe$+ r[
 moves a /ep =w>d or backw>d z requir$  
to c>ry out ! patt]n4 ,9 ! second       
example ! d>n+ is tak5 two ways ( !     
mat]ial2 9 ! c5tre1 :]e x meets &       
crosses1 x entirely cov]s ! gr\nd4 ,a   
diff]5t col\r might be us$ = ea*        
direction1 :i* w\ld look v well at !    
cross+ 9 ! c5tre4 ,! f\r corn]s are     
fill$ up ) a *equ] d>n2 ?is ea* "t picks
 up z mu* mat]ial z x leaves4 ,! ?ird   
example %[s ! d>n+ /it* =m+ a diamond   
patt]n4 ,sampl]s1 dat$ e>ly ,x,i,xth    
c5tury1 may be se5 entirely fill$ ) ^!  
patt]n d>ns2 !y are cov]$ ) mo/         
intricate & beautiful sample squ>es %[+ 
v>i\s patt]ns 9 d>n+1 & 7 possibly done 
9 ord] to le>n h[ to repair damask table

 l954 ,9 a collection ( e>ly ,egyptian  
"w 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 !re  
is "s patt]n d>n+1 dat$ ,v,ith to ,i,xth
 c5tury1 ,a4,d41 :i* proves x to be a v 
e>ly me?od ( embroid]+4  ,illu/ration3  
,fig4 #aje4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajf4  
,?is patt]n d>n+1 h[ev]1 is s pretty t x
 is (t5 possible to make use ( x 9      
embroid]y "w = all k9ds ( purposes4 ,x  
makes a v good backgr\nd if !re is      
suffici5t space to %[ ! patt]n1 if !re  
is n1 ! irregul> d>n+ might be us$      
in/ead1 = x w\ld 9 t case be j z good & 
mu* quick] to "w4 ,to patt]n-d>n ! gr\nd
 ) ! ornam5t ^u x left 9 ! pla9 mat]ial1
 p]haps n work$ ^u at all1 is a v       
effective me?od ( c>ry+ out a design1   
see fig4 #ajf = example4 ,aga9 x might v
 well be us$ = ! conv5tional c>ry+ out (
 drap]ies 9 ! same way z 9 po9t c\*e    
r5tre ou retire4#f ,! drap]ies on !     
figure 9 ! frontispiece c\ld easily be  
c>ri$ out ) silk ?read 9 ! d>n+ /it*1 9 
fact ?is me?od ( decoration m closely   
resembles ! e>ly c\*+ ?an any o!r2 x is 

n q z satisfactory because ! s+le ?reads
 ( ! backgr\nd t are pick$ up prev5t !  
gr\nd %[+ no?+ b silk4 ,b&s ( ?is "w may
 be se5 ornam5t+ ne$le books or "w      
cases2 x %[s to be/ advantage :5 work$  
f9ely ) floss or filosel silk1 ! co>se  
twi/$ silks are too ?ick = ! purpose4   
,,op5 ,,"w ,,fill+s  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4
 #ajg4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajh4       
,patt]ns c be c>ri$ out 9 l9e1 !y c be  
work$ q solidly1 & !re is a me?od t lies
 betwe5 ^! two kn[n z op5 fill+4 ,! op5 
& solid fill+s are (t5 us$ toge!r 9 !   
same piece ( "w2 examples ( ?is c be se5
 on ! ,x,v,i,ith c5tury wool-"w curta9s1
 ! l>ge scroll+ leaves are sometimes    
p>tly work$ op5ly & a portion1 possibly 
reflex$1 fill$ 9 ) solid /it*es 9       
gradat+ col\r2 see = an example ,plate  
,,viii4 ,?is has a v good effect1 x     
prev5ts ! "w look+ too heavy1 %[s up !  
=m m cle>ly1 & all[s ( m v>iety 9 !     
/it*+4 ,) op5 fill+s ! outl9e surr\nd+  
!m mu/ always be "s firm decid$ l9e1 su*
 z is made by a b& ( sat9 or long & %ort

 /it*1 or1 9 ! case ( l>g] =ms1 by      
sev]al r[s ( diff]5t l9e /it*es work$   
closely toge!r1 "o inside ! o!r1 mo/    
likely 9 diff]5t %ades ( col\r4 ,a fill+
 ( op5 "w c be c>ri$ out 9 a v>iety (   
ways2 x may be a decorat$ trellis1 a    
regul> dott+ ( "s k9d1 or "s geometrical
 patt]n 9 outl9e1 or "s light /it* su* z
 an op5 buttonhole 7see fig4 #ajg71 :i* 
w\ld be treat$ ea* z a diap]+ ov] ! =m  
to be fill$4 ,x does n mu* matt] :at !  
fill+ is z long z x is disp]s$ pretty   
regul>ly ov] ! space1 giv+ ! effect at a
 little di/ance ( a light p]vad+ tone1 &
 :5 exam9$ closely exhibit+ an int]e/+  
small patt]n4 ,! op5 fill+ me?od c be   
us$ entirely ?r\gh\t a design ) v pretty
 effect2 an example ( ?is may be se5 on 
an embroid]$ cov]let & pill[ case 9 !   
,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4#g ,! patt]n1
 compos$ ( v9e leaves & grapes1 is c>ri$
 out 9 d>k br[n silk on a l95 gr\nd1 !  
leaves be+ all outl9$ ) sat9 /it*4 ,!re 
is wond]ful v>iety 9 ! patt]ns1 no two  
alike1 :i* =m ! op5 fill+s ( ! leaves2  

?is makes !m mo/ int]e/+ to exam9e1 & is
 evid5ce ( en?usiasm 9 _! design+4 ,fig4
 #ajh1 a leaf tak5 f ?is specim51 %[s "o
 me?od ( fill+ a =m ) op5 "w4#h ,fig4   
#aji %[s a collection ( patt]ns tak5 f !
 same piece ( embroid]y4 ,x w be obs]v$ 
t small /it*es ( ! same l5g? compose !  
patt]n1 :i* c be design$ ^u squ>$ pap] &
 easily copi$ on to ! l95 gr\nd by      
always pick+ up ! same numb] ( ?reads4  
,to look well ^! little =ms mu/ be      
accurately work$1 & !y or simil> k9ds c 
be us$ ^u fl[]s1 leaves1 bea/s1         
drap]ies1 or any?+ else q               
indiscrim9ately4 ,fig4 #aaj1 f a cap 9 !
 ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 is a draw+ 
%[+ ! same k9d ( op5 fill+ 9 use ^u a   
bird4#i  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aji4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aaj4  ,a quick] way
 ( c>ry+ out ^! geometrical fill+s is by
 us+ su* =ms z a lattice & ?r[+ ! l9es f
 side to side across ! %ape to be fill$1
 fix+ !m d[n1 :]e !y cross ea* o!r1 )   
c\*+ /it*es2 ! int]/ices left betwe5 !  
?reads c be fill$ 9 ) little />s1       

crosses1 or dots 7see fig4 #aaa74       
,buttonhole /it*1 if made use ( z an op5
 fill+1 w\ld be tak5 9 l9es /raight     
across a =m1 ! /it*es be+ work$ possibly
 two or ?ree closely toge!r & !n a      
space1 & s on4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4     
#aaa4  ,fig4 #aab sugge/s ano!r me?od ( 
lightly fill+ a leaf ) a conv5tional    
ve9+ & dott+4 ,!re is no limit to !     
v>iety :i* c be obta9$ 9 ?is me?od (    
work+4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aab4  ,op5 
fill+s are effective = use ^u any "w t  
is int5d$ to be se5 ) a light at ! back2
 !y make v decorative ! v>i\s =ms !y    
fill1 9 su* ?+s z musl9 w9d[ bl9ds1     
curta9s1 fire scre5s1 :e!r h& scre5s or 
! l>g] type4 ,= articles ( ?is k9d !    
patt]ns %\ld be r m solid & less l9$ 9  
"*2 fig4 #aac1 tak5 f a w9d[ bl9d       
exhibit$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1
 exemplifies :at is meant2 mo/ ( !      
patt]ns illu/rat$ 9 fig4 #ajj c\ld be   
treat$ 9 a m solid mann] if necess>y1 & 
w\ld look equally well t way4 ,:5 work+ 
^u transp>5t gr\nds special c>e mu/ be  

tak5 ) ! rev]se side z well z ) !       
surface1 = ! "w to be practically alike 
^u bo? sides2 !re mu/ be no ?reads runn+
 f "o =m to ano!r nor any visible fa/5+ 
(f ( ends4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aac4   
,,d>n$ ,,nett+  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4     
#aad4  ,d>n$ nett+1 or lacis1 z x is    
sometimes call$1 might almo/ come "u !  
head+ ( ei!r lace or embroid]y4 ,x is   
us$ effectively ) o!r k9ds ( :ite l95   
"w1 b&s or squ>es ( x be+ let into !    
l952 ! contra/ ( ! solid ) ! m op5 "w   
gives a pretty effect4 ,fig4 #aad is an 
example ( ?is "w4 ,! d>n+ is done on a  
pla9 nett$ gr\nd :i* c be prep>$ by !   
work] if acqua9t$ ) nett+1 if n1 !      
squ>es c be obta9$ ready = work+ ^u4 ,! 
patt]n mu/ be design$ ^u squ>$ pap] z = 
cross /it* "w1 !n x is simply a "q (    
foll[+ out ! patt]n ^u ! squ>e net      
gr\nd4 ,e squ>e ( ! patt]n$ "p mu/ be   
cross$ 9 ea* direction by two l9es (    
d>n+1 :i* %\ld ab\t fill x up4 ,! v>i\s 
l9es are run 9 & out z cont9u\sly z     
possible1 s z to avoid unnecess>y fa/5+ 

(f or pass+ f "o "p to ano!r4 ,:5 a fre%
 ?read is requir$1 jo9 x ) a knot to !  
end ( ! la/ "o 7see figs4 #afe & #aff71 
& d>n ! ends 9 neatly ) ! o!r ?reads4   
,^! knots are (t5 us$ 9 embroid]y1 = !y 
are bo? /rong & small4 ,deta*$ /it*es & 
p>ts mu/ be work$ by !mselves2 ! ?read  
%\ld n be c>ri$ f "o to ! o!r4 ,! "w mu/
 be done 9 a frame & c>ri$ out ) a      
blunt-po9t$ ne$le4 ,! same ?read is us$ 
= ! nett$ gr\nd & = ! d>n$ patt]n4 ,a   
me?od ( "w t ! ,fr5* call desse9 res]ve 
is1 9 result1 r simil> to ?is1 b x is   
work$ 9 j ! rev]se way4 ,! patt]n1      
:atev] x may be1 is left 9 ! pla9 l951 &
 ! backgr\nd has c]ta9 ?reads 9 ea*     
direction )drawn at regul> int]vals1    
:]eby ! effect ( ! squ>$ net gr\nd is   
obta9$4  ,,footnotes3  #e ,no4 #aefd1   
#aijb4  #f ,= description ( ?is me?od1  
see page #bch4  #g ,a piece belong+ to  
,"l ,falkl&4  #h ,fig4 #ah is a draw+ f 
! bord] ( ! same example4  #i ,no4 #cjh1
 #aijb4     ,,*apt] ,x  ,,me?ods ,,(    
,,"w--7cont9u$7    ,drawn ,?read        

,"w--,hem ,/it*+--,simple ,bord]        
,patt]ns--,d>n$   ,?read                
,patt]ns--,corn]s--,cut or ,op5         
,"w--,v>i\s ,me?ods (   ,refill+ ! ,op5 
,spaces4   ,?is me?od ( "w is !         
ackn[l$g$ l9k betwe5 embroid]y & lace1 &
 0 possibly ! orig9 ( ! latt]4 ,drawn "w
 is t 9 :i* ! ?reads ( ei!r ! w>p or !  
weft ( ! mat]ial are )drawn & ^? rema9+ 
work$ into a patt]n1 by ei!r clu/]+     
toge!r or work+ ov] !m 9 "s fa%ion4 ,!  
cut or op5 "w1 z x is sometimes call$1  
is t 9 :i* bo? w>p & weft are 9 places  
cut away1 & ! op5 spaces ?us =m$ are    
p>tly refill$ ) a device ( "o k9d or    
ano!r4  ,! "w is mo/ (t5 c>ri$ out 9    
:ite ?read on :ite l951 b col\r$ ?reads 
may occasionally be introduc$ )         
advantage4 ,x is a durable me?od ( "w1 &
 p>ticul>ly suitable = ! decoration (   
v>i\s h\se-l95s1 ?+s t mu/ und]go daily 
we> & wa%2 its r unobtrusive "* too     
makes x ! m suitable = ?is purpose4 ,!  
"w is us$ 9 conjunction ) o!r k9ds (    
embroid]y1 p]haps mak+ a neat f9i% to an

 edge1 or light5+ :at w\ld o!rwise be   
too heavy 9 appe>ance4  ,drawn ?read &  
cut "w c be c>ri$ out ) su* detail &    
f95ess z to really become mo/ delicate  
lace4 ,9 ?is *apt]1 h[ev]1 x is int5d$  
to be treat$ r z an adjunct to o!r      
embroid]y1 !re=e only elem5t>y "w w be  
discuss$4 ,m att5tion might ) advantage 
be paid to ! design ( ?is k9d ( "w1 = m 
might be done ) x ?an sometimes is4 ,=  
"o ?+1 !re is v little v>iety 9 !       
patt]ns1 & ! result (t5 seems a spid]y  
mass ( incompreh5sible ?reads ) no v    
p]ceivable plan2 p]haps if m att5tion 7 
paid to ! proportion & mass+ ( ! solid &
 op5 p>ts1 a bett] result might be      
atta9$4 ,neatness & simplicity are good 
qualities 9 ! patt]n1 ! me?od ( "w n be+
 suit$ to ! expression ( ! v>i\s l>g] & 
bold] types ( design4   ,,drawn ,,?read 
,,"w  ,9 drawn "w ! "q is h[ to treat ! 
rema9+ w>p ?reads aft] ! weft has be5   
)drawn4 ,!y c be clu/]$ 9 bun*es 9      
diff]5t ways ) ornam5tal /it*es add$1 or
 be entirely cov]$ ov] ) d>n+ or ov]ca/ 

/it*es 9 su* a way z to =m a patt]n4  ,!
 beg9n+ ( mo/ drawn ?read "w is hem     
/it*+1 ! two edges m>k+ ! limit ( !     
)drawn ?reads h usually to be hem /it*$ 
be=e any patt]n c be c>ri$ out4 ,"o     
me?od ( do+ ?is is 9 progress 9 fig4    
#aae4 ,9 ord] to "w x1 draw out ?ree or 
f\r ?reads ( ! w>p & tack ! hem d[n to !
 top edge ( ! l9e ?us made4 ,! diagram  
expla9s ! rema9d] ( ! work+4            
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aae4  ,fig4 #aaf   
%[s 9 ! fir/ example clu/]s ( f\r ?reads
 drawn toge!r at ea* edge by hem /it*+ 9
 su* a way z to =m a ladd]-l patt]n4    
,?is & ! "o bel[ are ! ornam5tations ( a
 pla9 hem t are mo/ commonly se54 ,!    
v>iation 9 patt]n 9 ! l[] "o is obta9$  
by draw+ toge!r on ! l[] edge two ?reads
 f two consecutive bun*es 9 ! upp] r[   
in/ead ( j repeat+ ov] aga9 ! same      
division+ z be=e4 ,^! two examples are  
drawn to %[ ! rev]se1 n ! work+ side4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aaf4  ,ano!r way ( 
dispos+ ( ! undrawn ?reads is to cov] !m
 ) a k9d ( d>n+ /it*1 z illu/rat$ 9 fig4

 #aag4 ,?is k9d ( "w is m solid ?an !   
o!r1 & is = t reason v durable4 ,?is    
example is comm5c$ at ! "r-h& corn]1 :]e
 ! ?reads are drawn loosely 9 ord] to   
expla9 ! work+4 ,! ne$le1 :i* %\ld h a  
blunt po9t1 takes ! ?read to & fro      
alt]nately ov] & "u two clu/]s ( w>p    
?read1 draw+ !m toge!r a little dur+ !  
process2 half-way d[n1 ! ne$le leaves ! 
fir/ set ( ?reads & cont9ues work+ ) !  
second & a new set 7see ne$le 9         
diagram74 ,:5 ?is is work$ d[n to ! base
 ! ne$le takes ! ?read invisibly up !   
c5tre ( ! work$ "p to ! po9t :]e x is   
requir$ = ! cont9uation ( ! patt]n4 ,!  
work+ ( ?is simple patt]n expla9s !     
pr9ciple ^u :i* all k9ds ( pretty & m   
complicat$ designs c be c>ri$ out4 ,!   
d>n+ ?read may be col\r$2 9 a m         
intricate design two or ?ree diff]5t    
col\rs might be introduc$4              
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aag4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #aah4  ,fig4 #aah %[s ano!r      
patt]n 9 ! same k9d ( "w4 ,! d>n+ /it*  
beg9s by work+ to & fro ov] & "u f\r    

clu/]s ( w>p ?reads1 "p way d[n x       
cont9ues ov] ! two c5tral ones only1    
leav+ ! outside clu/]s alone = ! pres5t4
 ,x f9i%es up1 z at ! beg9n+1 to & fro  
ov] ! f\r4 ,! ?reads t 7 left are next  
cov]$ ) an ov]ca/ /it*1 ! adjo9+ ones 9 
ea* case are caught toge!r 9 ! c5tre 9  
ord] to =m ! ,x %ape t recurs along !   
patt]n4 ,?is d>n+ k9d ( "w is v closely 
alli$ to weav+1 & especially ! k9d (t5  
se5 9 ,coptic "w1 9 :i* b&s ( ! wo(     
?reads are purposely omitt$ 9 places1   
:il/ ! fabric is be+ made1 9 ord] t a   
patt]n may be h&-wov5 9 aft]w>ds to take
 _! place4 ,_m beautiful examples ( ?is 
"w are on view 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t   
,museum4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aai4  ,9 
work+ a drawn ?read bord] r\nd a squ>e  
%ape1 at ea* corn] !re comes an op5     
space t requires a fill+4 ,fig4 #aai %[s
 two :eels t are commonly us$ to ornam5t
 su* places4 ,! squ>e 9 ! fir/ "o has a 
prelim9>y gr\ndwork ( ?reads ?r[n across
 f corn] to corn] & f side to side1 all 
meet+ & cross+ 9 ! c5tre4 ,! work+ ?read

 is br\ght ?r\gh at ?is po9t & ! :eel   
comm5c$ by tak+ a k9d ( back /it* ov] a 
b> & br++ ! ne$le up beyond ! next b>4  
,x !n takes ! ?read a /ep back & ov] !  
same b> & br+s x up beyond ! next2 ?is  
goes on until ! circle is ( suffici5t   
size1 ! /it*es gr[+ a little long] 9 ea*
 succe$+ r[4 ,9 ! diagram ! ?read is    
loos5$ at ! end to expla9 ! work+4 ,!   
l[] example is a commonly us$ :eel1 :i* 
is made by ! ?read runn+ r\nd alt]nately
 ov] & "u a b> until ! :eel is complet$4
 ,x %\ld be z solid z ! upp] "o1 b is   
purposely left loose 9 ! diagram4 ,ei!r 
( ! :eels c\ld h a l9e ( buttonhole     
/it*+ work$ r\nd ! edge z a f9i%4 ,?is  
figure %[s also ! two usual ways ( mak+ 
firm ! raw edges 9 cut "w--! squ>e %ape 
is b\nd by an ov]ca/ /it*1 & ! r\nd "o  
by buttonhol+4   ,,cut ,,or ,,op5 ,,"w  
,cut "w c be mo/ int]e/+ bo? to look at 
& to c>ry out4 ,9 ! ,x,v,i,ith c5tury   
,italy 0 fam\s = its punto tagliato or  
cut "w4 ,john ,taylor m5tions r>e       
,italian cutworke 9 ,! ,praise ( !      

,ne$le4 ,?is poem may p]haps be ( int]e/
 to "s2 x 0 prefix$ to a book (         
embroid]y patt]ns ( cut "w nam$ ,!      
,ne$le's ,excell5cy4 ,x ran ?r\gh twelve
 editions1 ! fir/ ( :i* 0 pr9t$ 9 #afba1
 & sold at ! signe ( ! ,m>igold 9       
,paules ,*ur*y>d4 ,copies may be se5 9 !
 ,briti% ,museum ,libr>y2 9 ! ,bodleian1
 ,ox=d1 9 ! ,ryl&'s ,libr>y1 ,man*e/]1 &
 occasionally else:]e4 ,fig4 #abj %[s a 
patt]n tak5 f ?is book4  ,!re are sev]al
 di/9ct v>ieties ( cut "w1 = in/ance1 t 
kn[n z r5aissance embroid]y1 :i* is     
usually compos$ ( an arabesque design f 
:i* ! backgr\nd is cut away1 leav+ !    
patt]n 9 ! l952 ! cut edges are outl9$ &
 protect$ by an ov]ca/ /it*4 ,! patt]n  
has to be specially plann$ ) ! idea (   
hold+ /rongly toge!r1 b1 if necess>y1   
buttonhol$ b>s c be add$ to =m /r5g!n+  
ties 9 any weak "p4  ,ano!r k9d ( cut "w
 is t kn[n z brod]ie anglaise1 &        
sometimes z ,madeira "w1 ov] :i* our    
gr&mo!rs sp5t mu* "t1 p]haps )\t        
adequate result4 ,! patt]n is foll[$ out

 by r\nd holes pi]c$ 9 ! l95 ) a /iletto
 & !n ov]ca/ r\nd ! edges4 ,at ! pres5t 
day ! "w is done mo/ly by ma*9]y1 ?\gh  
h& "w also is procurable4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #abj4  ,p]haps ! prettie/ k9d (  
cut "w is t 9 :i* v>i\s-%ap$ spaces are 
cut out ( ! l951 & ^! fill$ 91 9 "p1 )  
"s design built up ) /it*es4 ,!re are   
v>i\s me?ods ( refill+ ! spaces cut out1
 "o ( ! simple/ is a diap]+ =m$ by "s   
lace /it*1 su* z an op5 buttonhole4 ,z a
 rule1 ! decoration ( ! op5 spaces is   
bas$ ^u b>s ( ?read t are ei!r compos$ (
 w>p or wo( ?reads left1 in/ead ( be+   
cut away1 or else ^u fre% ?reads ?r[n   
across 9 v>i\s directions4 ,! patt]n is 
plann$ on & ab\t ^! /r5g!n+ ties1 & :]e 
necess>y receiv+ support f !m4 ,an +5i\s
 work] w soon devise ways ( refill+ !   
spaces by all k9ds ( int]e/+ patt]ns1   
:i* c be geometrical or floral1 or any  
k9ds ( objects t c be attractively      
repres5t$ 9 conv5tional fa%ion1 su* z   
figures1 birds1 insects1 %ips 9 full    
sail1 or any?+ else4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be  

rememb]$ t ! v>i\s =ms fill+ ! spaces   
are = use 9 ! way ( /r5g? z well z =    
ornam5t1 & t ! "w is (t5 put ^u objects 
t h to endure daily we>4  ,op5 "w is    
frequ5tly mix$ ) o!r1 & especially )    
:ite embroid]y1 & su* ?+s z c\nt]panes  
may be se5 arrang$ ) a *equ]+ ( alt]nate
 squ>es ( embroid]$ l95 & op5 "w4  ,fig4
 #aba %[s 9 progress a simple me?od (   
fill+ a space1 ma9ly mak+ use ( !       
/r5g!n+ ?reads t h be5 left at regul>   
int]vals ov] ! cut "p4 ,! ?reads are    
cov]$ ) an ov]ca/ /it*1 & alt]nate      
squ>es ( ^? t recur ov] ! space are     
decorat$ ) a cross4 ,?is is made by !   
work+ ?read1 aft] rea*+ ! "r po9t at !  
c5tre ( an ov]ca/ l9e1 be+ ?r[n across !
 space & !n twi/$ back ov] itself to !  
/>t+-po9t1 :]e x is 9 ! "r position =   
cont9u+ ! ov]ca/ l9e4 ,! crosses be+ put
 9 at ! same "t z ! ov]ca/+ ( ! b>s     
r5d]s "s =e?\ght necess>y to get ea* 9  
at j ! "r "t & place4  ,illu/ration3    
,fig4 #aba4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abb4  
,ano!r k9d ( fill+ c be se5 9 progress 9

 fig4 #abb4 ,! /it*es us$ 9 x are ov]ca/
 & buttonhole4 ,) ! help ( ?is          
la/-m5tion$ /it* patt]ns ( all k9ds c be
 c>ri$ out1 = ea* succe$+ r[ ( ! /it* c 
be work$ into ! head+ ( ! la/ r[1 & 9   
?is way x is possible to build up any   
requir$ %ape4 ,?is figure is a work+    
diagram ( a piece ( cut "w ( :i* !      
complet$ squ>e ) its surr\nd+ decoration
 c be se5 9 fig4 #cd4 ,aft] ov]ca/+ !   
raw edges a diagonal ?read is ?r[n      
across 7,e ,d on plan71 ^u :i* ! patt]n 
%all be built up2 ! ?read is tak5 once  
to & fro & !n twi/$ back aga9 = a ?ird  
cross+4 ,comm5ce by ov]ca/+ ! ?reads f  
po9t ,d1 & ^u rea*+ ! "p :]e ! patt]n is
 wid5$ out1 *ange ! /it* to an op5      
buttonhol+ 7z %[n on l9e ,b74 ,x is     
work$ op5ly 9 ?is way 9 ord] to leave   
space = ano!r r[ ( ! same k9d ( /it*+ to
 be fitt$ 9 f ! opposite side1 :i* is ! 
next ?+ to be done4 ,!n an out] r[ (    
buttonhole /it* is work$ on ea* side ( !
 c5tral b> & into ! head+ ( ! fir/ r[ ( 
/it*+2 ?is is %[n 9 progress :]e ! ne$le

 is at "w4 ,! entire patt]n is c>ri$ out
 9 ?is way1 fir/ lay+ d[n f\ndation     
?reads 9 ! necess>y places & !n cov]+ !m
 up ) ei!r ov]ca/+ or buttonhole /it* z 
requir$4 ,x is easily possible to c>ry  
out fl[]s & all k9ds ( o!r ?+s          
suffici5tly well to make !m pleasantly  
recognisable4     ,,*apt] ,,xi          
,,embroid]y ,,) ,,gold ,,& ,,silv]      
,,?reads                                
,introduction--,mat]ials--,precautions =
 ! ,prev5tion (   ,t>ni%--,anci5t ,me?od
 ( ,c\*+--,its v>i\s ,good              
,po9ts--,description ( ,work+           
,diagram--,work+ a ,rais$               
,b>--,examples ( ,patt]ns ,employ$ 9    
,old ,"w--,illu/rations ^u   ,drap$     
,figures--,usual ,me?od ( ,c\*+--,c\*+  
,patt]ns--,outl9e   ,"w--,rais$ ,"w--,! 
,use ( ,purls1 ,bullions1 c4   ,gold &  
silv] ?reads h always play$ an important
 "p 9 embroid]$ "w1 & are a mo/ valuable
 addition to ! work]'s /ock ( mat]ials1 
= !y give a spl5d\r & ri*ness t is n    
obta9able 9 any o!r way4 ,!y h be5      

utilis$ f ! e>lie/ times 9 bo? embroid]y
 & weav+2 9 scripture & o!r anci5t      
hi/orical writ+s !re is abundant pro( ( 
?is fact4  ,! e>lie/ =m ( gold ?read 9  
use 0 ! pure metal beat5 into ?9 plates 
& !n cut into long n>r[ /rips2 t x 0    
sometimes r\nd$ into wire =m is v       
probable4 ,! fir/ wire-draw+ ma*9e is   
said to h be5 inv5t$ by a workman at    
,nuremb]g1 b x 0 n until two c5turies   
lat] t ! draw+-mills 7 introduc$ into   
,engl&4  ,gold ?read1 simil> to t we n[ 
use1 entw9$ ab\t a silk "o1 is m5tion$ 9
 a ,x,i,vth c5tury ,lat9 poem2 also1 x  
is kn[n t 9 ! ,x,i,i,ith c5tury our     
,engli% ladies prep>$ _! own gold ?read 
be=e work+ x 91 & x 0 ( ! same type z   
ours1 ! gold be+ spirally twi/$ r\nd a  
?read ( silk or flax4#aj  ,to be a      
skill$ work] ) gold ?read ne$s          
consid]able application & practice4 ,!re
 is mu* v>iety 9 ! "w1 "s bran*es ( x   
be+ m simple to manipulate ?an o!rs4 ,x 
is desirable = all work]s to und]/&     
some?+ ( gold "w1 = x is frequ5tly      

employ$ 9 conjunction ) o!r embroid]y1 z
 well z alone4 ,fig4 #abc %[s a c\*$ l9e
 ( gold ?read outl9+ "s silk embroid]y1 
:i* gives a pretty jewel-l effect (     
some?+ preci\s 9 a sett+ ( gold4        
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abc4  ,gold        
embroid]y may be divid$ r\ghly into ?ree
 ma9 classes1 outl9e "w1 solid flat "w1 
& rais$ "w4 ,outl9e "w is1 z f> z       
te*nique is conc]n$1 "o ( ! simple/ =ms 
( gold embroid]y4 ,! patt]n is foll[$   
r\nd ) a gold cord or d\ble ?read (     
pass+1 fix$ ei!r visibly or invisibly ) 
a c\*+ /it*2 ! "w ne$s b an int]e/+     
design & suitable backgr\nd to be mo/   
successful4 ,fig4 #abd illu/rates a     
portion ( a design1 c>ri$ out ) gold    
cord ^u a velvet gr\nd1 :i* has be5     
fur!r enri*$ by ! addition ( little     
appli$ :ite fl[]s4 ,! rais$ "w1 & t :i* 
introduces ! use ( purls & bullions1 is 
at once m complicat$1 & p]haps h>dly z  
pleas+ z ! simpl] flat "w4              
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abd4  ,! me?od (   
apply+ ! gold to ! mat]ial is usually by

 c\*+ ( "o =m or ano!r1 = mo/ ( ! ?reads
 are too inflexible to be /it*$ ?r\gh4  
,! gr\nd1 if x %[s at all1 is usually a 
ri* /uff1 su* z velvet1 sat91 or silk1 9
 ord] to be 9 keep+ ) ! valuable ?read4 
,if ! gr\nd *os5 is difficult to "w ^u1 
! embroid]y is c>ri$ out ^u l951 & !    
f9i%$ "w aft]w>ds appli$ to ! gr\nd4 ,if
 bo? backgr\nd & patt]n are solidly     
embroid]$1 l95 c be us$ z ! p]man5t     
gr\nd4 ,x is usual to h two lay]s (     
mat]ial = work+ ^u1 = gold ?reads are   
heavy & require ! support ( ! d\ble     
gr\nd4 ,!re are sev]al advantages 9 ?is 
d\ble mat]ial1 z ! old work]s knew1 = we
 f9d !y commonly us$ two4 ,! "u-lay] c  
be a /rong l951 & ! surface "o silk1    
sat91 or a f9e l951 z requir$4          
,,mat]ials  ,a v>iety ( metal ?reads are
 manufactur$ = embroid]y purposes1 & !y 
are all obta9able 9 gold1 silv]1 or     
imitations ( ^!2 alum9ium ?read has be5 
made lately1 & has ! advantage ( be+    
unt>ni%able1 b its col\r & quality d n  
seem q satisfactory1 & x is n popul>4 ,!

 imitation ?reads are nev] wor? ! us+2  
!y t>ni% to a worse col\r1 & are m      
difficult 9 manipulation2 :at goes by ! 
"n ( real gold1 is silv] or copp]1 plat$
 ) ! m valuable metal4 ,! pure gold     
?read is said n to be s practical z ?is1
 be+ too brittle2 b someh[ or o!r x 0 m 
successfully manufactur$ 9 ! pa/ ?an    
n[adays1 = "s gold "w six c5turies old  
exhibits beautifully bright ?reads4  ,! 
foll[+ li/ comprises ! *ief ?reads us$ 9
 ?is "w3--  ,pass+4--,?is is a bright   
smoo? ?read1 resembl+ 9 appe>ance a gold
 wire2 x consi/s ( a n>r[ flat /rip (   
gold spirally twi/$ r\nd a silk5 ?read4 
,x c be obta9$ 9 diff]5t sizes1 ! f9e/  
qualities go+ by ! "n ( tamb\r4 ,mo/    
pass+ has to be c\*$ on to ! mat]ial1 b 
x is possible to /it* 9 ! tamb\r l      
ord9>y ?read4  ,purl4--,?is resembles a 
smoo? r\nd holl[ tube ( metal1 v pliable
 & ela/ic2 :5 pull$ l5g?ways x is f\nd  
to be con/ruct$ l a closely coil$ spiral
 spr+4 ,x is manufactur$ 9 l5g?s ( ab\t 
"o y>d1 & = use x is cut into small     

sections ( any requir$ size ) scissors  
or a knife4 ,!re are sev]al v>ieties (  
purl1 namely1 ! smoo?1 r\gh1 *eck1 &    
wire *eck4 ,! smoo? has a bright poli%$ 
appe>ance1 :i* is obta9$ by a flat gold 
wire be+ spun spirally r\nd2 ! r\gh has 
a dull] & m yell[ appe>ance1 :i* is ow+ 
to ! wire hav+ be5 r\nd$2 ! *eck is     
bright & sp>kl+1 & consi/s ( ! flatt5$  
wire spun 9 a diff]5t way1 s t p>ts ( x 
cat* ! light & sp>kle2 ! wire *eck is ! 
same ?+1 b dull] & ( a deep] yell[1 ow+ 
aga9 to its be+ made ( ! r\nd wire4     
,bullion4--,?is is ! "n giv5 to ! l>g]  
sizes ( purl4  ,pe>l ,purl4--,?is is    
manufactur$ 9 ! same spiral tube-l      
fa%ion z ! o!r purl1 b ! gold wire is   
previ\sly holl[$ out 9 ?is inv]t$ ,u    
%ape1 ! convex side be+ ! "o expos$4    
,?is1 :5 spun r\nd1 has ! appe>ance ( a 
/r+ ( t9y gold beads4 ,x is frequ5tly   
us$ z an outl9+ ?read4  ,v>i\s gold     
twi/s & cords c be obta9$2 !y are       
compos$ ( sev]al ?reads twi/$ up 9 !    
usual cord fa%ion1 ea* ply consi/+ (    

gold spun r\nd a silk ?read4  ,plate is 
a flat /rip ( metal commonly ab\t       
"o-sixte5? ( an in* wide2 x c be obta9$ 
9 diff]5t wid?s4  ,spangles4--,^! are   
small v>i\sly %ap$ pieces ( ?9 metal1   
usually pi]c$ ) a hole 9 ! c5tre = fix+ 
on to ! mat]ial4 ,!y are frequ5tly      
circul> 9 %ape1 & ei!r flat or slightly 
concave2 ! latt] are ! pretti]4 ,_m     
fancy %apes also are obta9able1 b !y are
 incl9$ to look tawdry1 & sugge/ive ( ! 
pantomime4  ,clo? ( ,gold &             
,silv]4--,?is is a fabric manufactur$ ( 
silk1 ) gold or silv] ?read inwov5 9 !  
mak+4 ,x is n n[ s mu* us$ z =m]ly1 :5 x
 0 9 great reque/ = robes ( k+s & o!r   
high dignit>ies ( *ur* or /ate4  ,a     
special make ( silk = c\*+ d[n gold     
?read is obta9able 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,x is
 call$ horsetail or sew+s1 & is bo? f9e 
& /rong4  ,padd+ = use 9 rais$ gold "w  
is usually yell[1 & = silv]1 :ite or    
grey4 ,yell[ s(t cotton1 l95 ?read1 or  
silk1 are all us$ = ! purpose4  ,v>i\s  
precautions c & mu/ be tak5 to keep !   

gold ?read bright1 = "u unfav\rable     
circum/ances x rapidly assumes a bad    
col\r2 ! silv] ?read is ev5 m liable to 
t>ni% ?an ! gold1 & x turns a worse     
col\r1 go+ black4 ,!re is a special pap]
 manufactur$ to wrap ?reads 91 & ! /ock 
supply %\ld be kept 9 a t9 or air-tight 
bottle2 ?is is 9 ord] to protect ! metal
 f damp1 :i* is mo/ injuri\s2 to d ?is  
is a difficult matt] 9 ! ,engli%        
climate4 ,l95 us$ = work+ ^u1 or z      
back+1 is be/ unblea*$1 = sometimes !   
*emicals us$ 9 ! blea*+ process h a     
delet]i\s effect ^u ! gold2 a piece (   
gold embroid]y wrapp$ up 9 cotton wool =
 pres]vation has be5 f\nd completely    
spoil$ by "s *emical 9 ?is wool1 :i*    
prov$ m disa/r\s ?an exposure to air    
w\ld h be54 ,gas1 /rong sc5ts1 h&l+     
7especially ) hot h&s71 all h an evil   
effect1 & s %\ld be avoid$ z mu* z      
possible4 ,"w ev5 :il/ 9 progress %\ld  
be kept cov]$ z mu* z is practicable1 & 
%\ld n be all[$ to hang ab\t2 ! quick] x
 is done ! bett]4 ,a piece ( f9i%$ "w c 

be poli%$ up ) a lea!r pad or a bru%1   
simil> to a h\semaid's bru% =           
silv]-clean+ purposes2 ?is ( c\rse1 mu/ 
be us$ ) c>e4   ,,anci5t ,,me?od ,,(    
,,c\*+  ,gold ?read c be c\*$ on to !   
mat]ial 9 two di/9ct ways1 "o ( !m 9 use
 at ! pres5t day1 ! o!r "o t 0 commonly 
practis$ 9 ! ,x,i,i,ith & ,x,i,vth      
c5turies4 ,ab\t ! second half ( !       
la/-nam$ c5tury ! e>li] me?od 0         
supplant$ by ! pres5t "o4 ,almo/ e      
example ( e>ly gold ?read "w exhibits   
?is obsolete & +5i\s me?od ( c\*+4 ,!   
,syon cope & ! ,jesse cope 9 ! ,victoria
 & ,alb]t ,museum may be m5tion$ z fam\s
 examples4 ,m4 ,l\is de ,f>cy#aa draws  
especial att5tion to ?is beautiful me?od
 ( work+1 to :i* he gives ! "n po9t c\*e
 r5tre ou retire1 & /rongly urges its   
revival2 he po9ts out _m di/9ct         
advantages x has ov] ! me?od n[ 9 use4  
,! durability is v great1 ow+ to ! c\*+ 
?read be+ ^u ! rev]se side1 :]e x is    
protect$ f we> & te>1 & be+ out ( sight 
c be made /rong & durable4 ,if a ?read  

is accid5tally brok5 x does n necess>ily
 give way along an entire l9e1 z may    
easily happ5 9 ! pres5t me?od4 ,a pro( (
 ?is po9t c be se5 ^u ! beautiful       
,ascoli cope lately 9 ! ,victoria &     
,alb]t ,museum1 ab\t :i* !re has be5 s  
mu* discussion ( late z to 9 :at c\ntry 
x orig9at$1 & :o 0 ! rightful own]4 ,!  
e>ly c\*+ work$ entirely ov] ! backgr\nd
 ( ! cope is 9 a /ate ( p]fect          
pres]vation2 portions ( ! gold ?read    
drap]y h "h & !re be5 c\*$ by ! o!r     
me?od1 ! ty+ d[n ?reads h1 9 ^? p>ts1   
mo/ly disappe>$1 & ! gold hangs loose & 
ragg$ ^u ! surface4  ,by ! way 9 :i* x  
is work$1 !re results a p>ticul>ly      
pleas+ & ev5 surface1 agreeably v>i$ by 
play ( light & %ade4 ,ano!r advantage ( 
! anci5t me?od is t ! complet$ "w is v  
flexible2 ?is po9t w appeal to ^? :o h  
exp]i5c$ ! extreme /iffness ( a l>ge    
surface ( ord9>ily c\*$ metal ?reads4   
,flexibility is an invaluable quality = 
any "w de/9$1 l copes & curta9s1 to hang
 9 folds4  ,repres5tations ( drap]ies ^u

 figures are well express$1 = by ! way 9
 :i* !y are work$ !re comes an          
ind5tation along ! l9es m>k+ ! folds2   
?is emphasises !m r happily1 & also     
breaks up ! surface 9 a satisfactory    
mann]4  ,fig4 #abe is a diagram t w aid 
9 expla9+ ! work+1 x gives bo? ! front &
 ! rev]se side4 ,?is has be5 f\nd to be 
! simple/ & ! mo/ practical me?od (     
obta9+ a result simil> to ! e>ly        
examples2 !re is1 h[ev]1 no means o!r   
?an exam9ation ( result :]eby to get at 
?is obsolete me?od4 ,to all appe>ance   
!re is ^u ! surface a k9d ( sat9 /it*   
work$ 9 gold pass+1 ! /it*es c>ry+ out  
"s geometrical patt]n1 su* z a *evron or
 lattice2 b at ! back a l95 ?read is se5
 runn+ to & fro 9 close p>allel l9es 9 !
 same direction z ! surface ?read1 & at 
regul> int]vals encircl$ by ! gold      
pass+1 j z if ?is 0 int5d$ to c\* d[n ! 
l95 ?read4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abe4   
,front4 ,back4  ,! +5uity &             
satisfactor9ess ( ! me?od mu/ be admitt$
 by all :o give x a trial1 & x is       

int]e/+ to conjecture h[ x may h aris54 
,possibly weav+ sugge/$ x to !          
embroid]]s1 =1 take away ! int]v5+      
mat]ial1 & x is n unlike wov5 "w1 & ^!  
two arts w\ld v likely be ! accompli%m5t
 ( ! same p]son4 ,p]haps ! commonly us$ 
me?od ( tak+ a co>se ?read ?r\gh to !   
back 7see fig4 #afg7 sugge/$ x1 = ?is is
 briefly ! :ole process4  ,9 ord] to try
 ! c\*+1 a two-fold gr\nd mat]ial mu/ be
 firmly /ret*$ 9 an embroid]y frame1 a  
/rong l95 und]nea? & a ?9n] closely wov5
 "o ^u ! upp] side4 ,"s f9e gold pass+ &
 "s /rong l95 ?read1 well wax$1 are     
requir$ to "w )1 also an embroid]y ne$le
 ) long eye & %>p po9t1 ! size1 :i* is  
important1 dep5d+ ^u ! ?reads 9 use2 !  
ne$le has to pi]ce ! two-fold gr\nd     
mat]ial1 mak+ a hole only j l>ge en\gh =
 ! passage ( a d\ble gold ?read4  ,if ! 
l95 has a regul> ev5 ?read ! drawn      
patt]n %[n 9 ! diagram c be work$ by    
c\nt+ ! ?reads ( ! gr\nd fabric1 b if   
?is is difficult or impossible1 z 9 !   
case say ( a twill$ surface1 a c>eful   

trac+ mu/ be made ^u ! l952 a beg9n] may
 f9d ?is ! easi] way 9 any case4  ,! end
 ( ! gold ?read1 :i* by n[1 9 read9ess =
 work+1 w be w\nd ^u ! bobb9 or sp9dle1 
mu/ be pass$ ?r\gh to ! back at !       
/>t+-po9t1 ! top left-h& corn] 9 !      
diagram4 ,! l95 ?read secures x at !    
back & !n comes ?r\gh to ! front ^u !   
trac$ l9e exactly b5ea? 7see arr[ on    
plan74 ,x n[ encircles ! gold ?read :i* 
! left h& draws out r tautly1 & !n      
returns by ! same hole to ! back1 pull+ 
! metal ?read ?r\gh ) x4 ,!re is knack 9
 tak+ ! gold ?read only j ?r\gh & leav+ 
! complet$ /it* /raight & flat ^u !     
surface4 ,! process is n[ repeat$1 ! l95
 ?read com+ ?r\gh to ! front aga9 ^u !  
next trac$ l9e1 & s on4 ,:5 ! base ( !  
patt]n is rea*$ ! gold ?read is tak5    
?r\gh once ^u t l9e1 & !n comm5ces a l  
j\rney upw>ds4  ,?is practically expla9s
 ! c\*+2 v>iety is obta9$ by *ange (    
patt]n1 b ! me?od ( c>ry+ x out is      
always ! same4 ,figs4 #abf1 #abg1 & #abh
 %[ ?ree patt]ns tak5 f old examples (  

?is c\*+4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abf4    
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abg4  ,!           
difficulties 9 te*nique are easily      
ov]come2 an important aid 9 ?is matt] is
 ! use ( mat]ials exactly "r2 ?is means 
ne$les & ?reads ( ! correct size1 !     
gr\nd compos$ ( suitable fabrics1 &     
prop]ly /ra9$ 9 a frame4 ,! aim 9 !     
work+ is to get ea* /it* p]fectly flat &
 /raight 9 its correct place 9 spite ( !
 ob/9acy ( ! metal ?read2 to avoid mak+ 
! p]=ation l>g] ?an necess>y1 = ?is     
makes ! "w clumsy2 to make ea* succe$+  
l9e lie closely beside ! la/ "o1 = !    
surface mu/ be ( solid gold1 & if !     
gr\nd %[$ ?r\gh 9 places x w\ld impov]i%
 ! effect4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abh4   
,! direction ( ! c\*$ ?read is usually  
ei!r v]tical or horizontal1 & x may be  
bo? ( ^! 9 ! same piece ( "w4 ,! reason 
( ?is may be because x is work$ by c\nt+
 ! ?reads ( ! fabric1 or because !      
patt]n is always treat$ z a diap] &     
plac$ ^u ! surface )\t reg>d to cont\r4 
,! exception to ?is rule ( direction is 

:5 ! c\*+ is tak5 along a /em or ! n>r[ 
hem ( a robe to =m ! bord]1 or along a  
girdle1 x !n foll[s ! direction ( ! b&1 
?is be+ evid5tly ! mo/ /raight=w>d &    
satisfactory me?od to use = ! purpose4  
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abi4 ,front4 ,back4
  ,! po9t c\*e r5tre ou retire is an    
excell5t me?od to use = work+ a rais$   
b>4 ,fig4 #abi %[s ! front & rev]se     
sides ( a b> work$ by x4 ,! gold ?read  
comes cleanly ?r\gh f ! back ( ! mat]ial
 in/ead ( be+ clumsily d\bl$ ^u !       
surface1 & ! durability is evid5tly     
great4 ,! l95 ?read1 x w be se51 runs to
 & fro at ! back1 at ea* turn secur+ !  
gold ?read4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acj4  
,9 fig4 #acj ?is c\*+ is to be se5 9 use
 ^u drap]y4 ,x is tak5 entirely ov] !   
ext]ior surface ( ! cloak1 & ^u ! cr[n1 
sceptre1 & model ( ! *ur*4 ,! l9es      
express+ ! folds ( drap]y are 9 ?is case
 %[n by ! c\*+ at ^! places be+ tak5 9 a
 diff]5t direction4 ,f9e gold pass+ is  
us$ = ! c\*$ ?read1 mu* f9] ?an c       
possibly be %[n 9 ! draw+1 & ! patt]n   

*os5 = ! c\*+ d[n is a *evron4 ,! o!r   
p>ts ( ! "w are done ) silk ?read 9 a   
f9e *a9 or split /it*4 ,! play ( light  
^u ! v>i$ surface ( ! gold5 cloak is v  
beautiful2 ! draw+ ( ! figure is p]haps 
primitive1 &1 reg>d$ f ! draughtsman's  
po9t ( view1 some:at ludicr\s2 x is     
h[ev] suffici5tly good to express all t 
its au?or int5d$1 & !re is some?+ v     
human 9 ?is dignifi$ little k+ :o w\ld n
 h y =get t he f\nd$ a *ur*4 ,! k+ :o is
 p]sonifi$ "h is ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 s 
! *ur* is ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 ( :i* he 0 ! 
f\nd]4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aca4  ,!   
,madonna & *ild =m+ ! frontispiece ( !  
"w is ano!r example ( ?is c\*+4 ,! me?od
 ( express+ ! folds ( drap]y is slightly
 diff]5t f t employ$ ^u ! k+'s robes4   
,all drap]y c>ri$ out 9 ?is /it* is     
work$ 9 some:at ! same fa%ion1 t is1 !  
c\*+ runn+ to & fro betwe5 ! l9es m>ks  
ea* fold z r\ghly %[n at fig4 #aca4 ,?is
 me?od leaves an ind5t$ l9e to express !
 drap]y1 :i* is a m satisfactory way ?an
 a simple l9e ( d>k col\r work$ ov] !   

gold1 z 9 m mod]n "w4 ,! ind5t$ l9e is  
(t5 fur!r emphasis$ by a l9e ( d>k silk 
/it*$ along x1 :i* is done 9 ?is case4  
,! figures are tak5 f ! ,jesse cope 9 ! 
,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum2#ab ?is      
ve/m5t1 ) its r$ silk backgr\nd & its   
f9ely col\r$ & drawn ance/ors ( ,*ri/   
pos$ among/ encircl+ v9e bran*es1 is a  
mo/ beautiful1 ?\gh sadly mutilat$1     
example ( ,x,i,i,ith c5tury design &    
workman%ip4   ,,mod]n ,,me?od ,,( ,,c\*+
  ,9 ! usual =m ( c\*+ ! gold ?read is  
atta*$ to ! mat]ial by f9e /rong silk4  
,! ?read is fa/5$ d[n z a rule two-fold1
 sometimes ev5 ?ree-fold2 ?is me?od is  
bo? quick] & m effective ?an c\*+ ea*   
?read sep>ately4 ,z ! c\*+ ?read is     
necess>ily 9 evid5ce1 decorative use is 
(t5 made ( x z well z practical2 !      
/it*es1 = in/ance1 may be plann$ s z to 
c>ry out "s patt]n 7see fig4 #acb7      
in/ead ( be+ put d[n at r&om4 ,!re is no
 limit to ! v>iety ( ! patt]ns t c be   
devis$ 9 ?is way4  ,decorative use c be 
made ( ! col\r ( ! c\*+ ?read2 a hot    

col\r w>ms ! tone ( ! gold & a cool "o  
does ! rev]se2 & ! m contra/+ ! col\r ! 
m x is 9 evid5ce4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4  
#acb4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acc4  ,!    
gold ?read may be c\*$ solidly 9 /raight
 l9es1 z ! above figure %[s1 or x may be
 arrang$ 9 wavy l9es ei!r close or op51 
z 9 fig4 #acc4 ,! ?read is wav$ by b5d+ 
x r\nd ! po9t$ end ( a pi]c] j be=e fix+
 d[n4 ,?is wav+ l9e is p>ticul>ly       
suitable = ! gold ?read1 s9ce ! slight  
*ange 9 direction all[s ! light to play 
^u ! metal v prettily4 ,= ?is reason    
gold is (t5 c\*$ solidly 9 circul> or   
%ell =m ov] a gr\nd4 ,9 gold embroid]y1 
!re=e1 ! direction ( ! ?read is a       
specially important matt]4              
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acd4  ,at ! end ( a
 l9e a te*nical difficulty sometimes    
arises 9 ! turn+ ( ! ?read1 :i* is apt  
to be clumsy4 ,?is difficulty is ov]come
 9 v>i\s ways2 ! mo/ usual is to return 
! d\bl$ ?read z neatly z possible &     
cont9ue ! next l9e2 ano!r is to cut !   
?read %>p (f1 secure x close to ! end ) 

a d\ble /it*1 & recomm5ce 9 l fa%ion2 ! 
?read c sometimes be pass$ ?r\gh to !   
back & br\ght up 9 position = work+ !   
next l9e4 ,! f9e po9t ( a leaf may      
pres5t difficulties 9 ! same way2       
sometimes "o ( ! two ?reads is          
tempor>ily let slip & ! po9t complet$ ) 
! s+le "o1 ! left ?read be+ pick$ up ^u 
! return 7see fig4 #acd74 ,= su*        
occasions z ?is x is m practical to w9d 
! two ?reads ( pass+ ^u sep>ate bobb9s1 
& br+ !m toge!r at ! work+4 ,ano!r way (
 ov]com+ ! po9t difficulty is %[n at    
fig4 #ace4   ,,rais$ ,,"w  ,! c\*$ gold 
?reads may be rais$ 9 p>ts by means ( "s
 k9d ( padd+ int]pos$ betwe5 x & !      
gr\nd4 ,!y are v effective s treat$1    
s9ce ! rais$ metal cat*es & reflects !  
light 9 a pleas+ mann]4 ,?is rais+ ( !  
?read1 h[ev]1 has be5 c>ri$ to su*      
extremes z to resemble goldsmi?'s "w r  
?an embroid]y1 & x is !n h>dly 9 good   
ta/e4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ace4  ,a    
simple me?od ( rais+ ! gold is to lay   
d[n l9es ( /r+ at /at$ int]vals ov] !   

gr\nd4 ,! well-kn[n =m call$ basket /it*
 is done 9 ?is way2 fig4 #acf illu/rates
 ?is /it*1 a "p ( ! squ>e is left       
unwork$ 9 ord] to expose ! "u-lay] (    
/r+4 ,to c>ry out ! diagram--,fir/ c\*  
d[n ! l9es ( /r+ at regul> int]vals ov] 
! surface1 !n comm5ce lay+ on ! gold by 
c>ry+ a d\bl$ ?read ( pass+ ov] two b>s 
( /r+1 & !re fix+ x d[n to ! mat]ial1 !n
 ov] two m & fix+ x d[n aga91 & s on to 
! end ( ! l9e4 ,?is is exactly repeat$ =
 a second l9e ( pass+1 !n1 = ! next two 
l9es1 comm5ce by c>ry+ ! pass+ = ! fir/ 
/it* ov] "o b> only1 & = ! rema9d] ( !  
l9e ov] ! two z be=e4 ,?is process      
repeat$ makes ! wick]-l patt]n s        
frequ5tly se5 9 gold "w4 ,x c be us$ z a
 fill+ or z a bord]4 ,x is evid5t t ) ! 
same arrangem5t ( /r+s _m o!r patt]ns   
c\ld be c>ri$ out by v>y+ ! po9ts ( c\*+
 d[n4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acf4  ,ano!r
 way 9 :i* /r+ is us$ = padd+ ! gold is 
illu/rat$ 9 fig4 #acg4 ,! patt]n1 :i* 9 
! fir/ "p is two diamond %apes & a bord]
 l9e1 is laid d[n 9 /r+4 ,! d\bl$ gold  

?read is !n tak5 horizontally to & fro 9
 close p>allel l9es ov] ! "p to be      
work$1 & fix$ by c\*+ /it*es at necess>y
 int]vals2 :]ev] else ^! /it*es may be  
put1 "o mu/ always be plac$ ^u ea* side 
( a rais$ l9e to make x %>p & cle>4 ,o!r
 k9ds ( padd+ are us$ 9 ?is me?od ( "w2 
= in/ance1 a loz5ge %ape may be /uff$ ) 
lay]s ( s(t cotton1 z %[n 9 ! second "p 
( ?is same diagram4 ,sometimes mo/      
complicat$ patt]ns are laid d[n 9 /r+ & 
cov]$ ) gold ?read 9 ?is way1           
e4g43--fig4 #ach %[s an int]lac+ patt]n 
tak5 f ! bord] ( an orphrey ^u a ,x,vth 
c5tury *asuble4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4    
#acg4   ,,! ,,use ,,( ,,fancy ,,gold    
,,?reads  ,a cursory glance mu/ be giv5 
to ! use ( purls & o!r fancy ?reads1 b  
^! are mo/ly us$ n[adays = badges on    
uni=ms1 or = masonic purposes1 & are    
c>ri$ out by ! trade4 ,^! ?reads1 :5    
t>ni%$1 are v difficult to clean1 !y    
easily turn a bad col\r & cat* ! du/1 & 
= real embroid]y purposes are n z       
satisfactory z ! pla9] ?reads4          

,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ach4  ,purl &      
bullion mu/ be cut v accurately into    
pieces ( ! requir$ size1 & atta*$ to !  
mat]ial z a bead w\ld be4 ,! metal mu/  
be z little z possible t\*$ ) ! f+]s2 ! 
cut pieces c be plac$ ^u a tray l9$ ) "s
 s(t spr+y sub/ance1 su* z felt1 9 ord] 
to be easily pick$ up ) ! po9t ( !      
ne$le1 & !y c be adju/$ to _! "r        
position ^u ! "w by ! aid ( ! flat end (
 ! pi]c]2 unnecess>y h&l+ may be avoid$ 
9 ?is way4  ,^! ?reads1 laid ov] padd+  
ei!r /raight across or at an angle1 may 
be us$ = ! /ems or petals ( conv5tional 
fl[]s4 ,! v>i\s k9ds1 dull1 bright1 &   
*eck1 may p]haps be us$ 9 succession4   
,plate is frequ5tly tak5 to & fro ov] ! 
same k9d ( =ms ov] a prep>$ padd+1 be+  
caught d[n by a /it* on ea* side by a   
me?od ! ,fr5* call le guipe4 ,x ne$s    
skill & practice to d ?is well4 ,cr9kl$ 
plate us$ to be c\*$ on to "w1 b n[ is n
 mu* us$ 9 ?is way4  ,pe>l purl is mo/  
(t5 se5 outl9+ a =m fill$ 9 ) ! o!r     
?reads2 an enl>g$ example ( ?is ?read   

lies v]tically d[n ! c5tre ( fig4 #aci1 
! end ( x is pull$ out1 9 ord] to %[ !  
=mation ( ! ?read4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 
#aci4  ,spangles are usually sewn d[n   
sep>ately2 !y may be atta*$ by /it*es f 
! c5tre outw>ds or by ! ?read be+ pass$ 
?r\gh a piece ( purl & !n return+ to !  
back ?r\gh ! hole 9 ! c5tre ( ! spangle4
 ,fig4 #aci illu/rates ano!r way ( us+  
^! spangles to =m a long tail %ape4 ,"h 
aga9 !y are atta*$ ) ! help ( pieces (  
purl4 ,9 ! same figure are giv5 "s      
illu/rations ( ! use ( ! fancy ?reads2  
to le>n m ab\t !m ! /ud5t %\ld exam9e   
,x,v,ith to ,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury gold "w 
dur+ :i* p]iod !y 7 9 popul> use4       
,,footnotes3  #aj ,see ,dr4 ,rock's     
,textile ,fabrics4  #aa ,9 ,la ,brod]ie 
du ,onzieme ,siecle jusqu'a ,nos ,j\rs4 
#ab ,no4 #age1 #ahhi4     ,,*apt] ,,xii 
,,lett]+1 ,,h]aldry1 ,,& ,,emblems    ,!
 ,uses (                                
,lett]+--,m>k+--,monograms--,h]aldry--,e
mblems4   ,lett]+ ( "o k9d or ano!r is  
frequ5tly 9 reque/4 ,x is useful =      

inscriptions1 v]ses1 names atta*$ to    
figures1 ! sign+ & dat+ ( "w1 & = ! m   
ord9>y purposes ( m>k+ l95 & s =?4      
,sign$ & dat$ "w has peculi>            
attractiv5ess3 x c be plac$ amid/       
def9ite hi/orical associations3 an      
au!nticat$ piece ( embroid]y1 say ( !   
reign ( ,k+ ,ri*>d ,coeur de ,lion1     
,que5 ,anne1 or ,george ,,iii41 w\ld be 
an hi/orical docum5t & a /&>d to gauge !
 p]iod ( any un9scrib$ examples4 ,al?\gh
 few ( u are likely to possess treasures
 ( ! ,x,i,i,ith c5tury1 sign$ & dat$    
pieces ( our great-gr&mo!rs' embroid]ies
 are int]e/+ p]sonal l&m>ks 9 family    
hi/ory1 s = ?is reason1 among/ o!rs1    
uno/5tati\s m>ks ( id5tification are by 
no means out ( place4 ,descriptive names
 or v]ses are also a means ( amplify+ ! 
/ory & s enliv5+ our curiosity4         
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adj4  ,lett]+ c    
answ] a fur!r purpose /ill2 x c enri* ! 
design1 =1 if rightly *os5 & employ$1   
lett]s are v decorative4 ,!y may be se5 
=m+ a bord] to a piece ( "w4 ,! ?ree    

lett]s 9 fig4 #adj 7 tak5 f an ,x,ith   
c5tury embroid]$ cope1 :i* has a f9e    
inscription runn+ r\nd ! entire l[]     
m>g94#ac ,! names ( ! sa9ts & m>tyrs /&+
 9 r[s 9 ! column$ arcades1 affect$ at  
c]ta9 p]iods1 are sometimes inscrib$ 9 !
 m\ld+s ( ! ar*es above !m or along !   
base2 kneel+ donors c be se5 naively    
pres5t+ a little scroll inscrib$ )      
pray]s1 & _m o!r int]e/+ uses ( lett]+  
might be recall$4 ,! names ,/4 ,luke &  
,/4 ,john1 %[n 9 fig4 #ada1 are tak5 f a
 beautiful embroid]$ example ( ,go?ic   
lett]+4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ada4      
,illum9at$ manuscripts supply f9e       
examples ( initial lett]s & writ+4 ,a   
visit to ! %[-cases 9 ! ,k+'s ,libr>y at
 ! ,briti% ,museum w be ( great int]e/  
to ! /ud5t2 ! illu/rations also to be   
se5 !re1 ! beautifully compos$ & col\r$ 
figure-subjects1 w\ld be equally        
suitable = c>ry+ out 9 embroid]y2 inde$ 
x is v probable t _m ( ! figure         
compositions on ! old copes & *asubles 7
 d]iv$ f su* a s\rce4 ,fig4 #adb gives z

 an example ( an alphabet "o tak5 f a   
,b5$ictionale ( late ,x,vth c5tury date4
  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adb4  ,a         
practical purpose to :i* lett]+ is (t5  
put is ! m>k+ ( l954 ,to le>n h[ to d   
?is us$ to be a recognis$ "p ( a girl's 
education1 & 0 "o ( ! objects ( !       
sampl]4 ,m>k+ c be any?+ f a simple     
cross-/it* initial to an elaborately    
work$ monogram4 ,= simple "w ! corn] to 
be m>k$ c be tack$ ^u toile ciree1 a    
mat]ial n unlike ,am]ican clo?4 ,tamb\r 
frames also are useful = ?is purpose4   
,fig4 #adc %[s ! /it*es mo/ us$ = work+ 
simple lett]s su* z ^? se5 ^u ! old     
sampl]s4 ,! fir/ is cross /it*1 :i* =   
m>k+ purposes %\ld be work$ s z to be   
alike on bo? sides4 ,to d ?is requires  
"s =e?\ght :il/ ! "w progresses1 &      
necessitates an occasional d\bl+ ( "o ( 
! cross$ /it*es1 9 ord] to rea* ! po9t =
 comm5c+ ! next "o & at ! same "t       
pres]v+ a cross on ea* side4            
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adc4  ,! second    
/it* 9 ! diagram %[s a squ>e on "o side 

& is a cross ^u ! rev]se4 ,?is makes a  
good /it* = ! purpose1 is q simple to   
manipulate1 & is easi] to manage ?an !  
cross on bo? sides4  ,! ?ird example is 
made use ( :5 a l>g] lett] is requir$4  
,x is kn[n z blanket /it*1 & is us$ = ! 
m>k+ ( su* ?+s4 ,x may be fur!r complet$
 by a neat back /it* j fitt+ along !    
outside edges ( ! o!r /it*es4           
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #add4  ,_m embroid]y
 /it*es are suitable = m>k+ purposes1   
su* z sat91 *a91 /em1 back1 rope1       
basket1 & o!rs4 ,! ,ori5tal /it* :i*    
c>ries out ! lett] 9 fig4 #add is a good
 "o :5 bo? sides c be se51 = ?\gh ^! are
 q diff]5t1 x is pres5table ^u ei!r4 ,! 
diagram %[s ! appe>ance ( ! /it* on !   
front & on ! back4  ,a simple initial   
lett] may be made int]e/+ by enri*+ !   
gr\nd beh9d x ) "s =m ( diap] patt]n+4  
,an example ( ?is is %[n 9 fig4 #ade4 ,!
 lett] c\ld be work$ 9 a pla9 sat9 /it* 
ov] a padd+ ( ?reads1 & ! patt]n on !   
gr\nd 9 a d>n+ /it* & ,fr5* knots1 or 9 
any o!r suitable way4  ,illu/ration3    

,fig4 #ade4  ,a monogram c>ri$ out 9    
embroid]y c be a v pretty ?+2 !re is    
scope 9 x = +5uity bo? ( design & (     
/it*+4 ,! lett]s may be decorat$ & ti$  
up ) a floral spray1 /rap "w or a       
comb9ation ( sev]al motifs4 ,fig4 #adf  
%[s a monogram compos$ ( ! lett]s ,i4   
,g4 ornam5t$ & b\nd toge!r by a ribbon-l
 int]lac+ b&4 ,! lett]s are work$ 9 a   
rais$ sat9 /it*1 & a runn+ /it* 9 ano!r 
col\r ?reads 9 & out d[n ! c5tre ( ea*  
lett]4 ,! outl9e is /em /it* 9 a d>k]   
col\r4 ,! b& is outl9$ on bo? sides ) an
 ov]ca/ /it*1 :i* always makes a        
p>ticul>ly neat edg+ = any?+ ( ?is sort4
 ,! c5tre is fill$ ) a r[ ( ,fr5* knots1
 ! tassels are work$ 9 close l9es ( /em 
/it*1 & ! petals ( ! small fl[]s 9 sat9 
/it*1 f9i%$ (f ) a ,fr5* knot at !      
c5tre4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adf4       
,ano!r m>k ( proprietor%ip & orig9 0 !  
%ield ( arms ( ! own]1 :i* introduces ! 
subject ( h]aldry4 ,a %ield execut$ ) ! 
ne$le is (t5 se51 & looks p>ticul>ly    
ri*4 ,h]aldry is an intricate sci5ce1   

full ( pitfalls = ! unw>y1 & dem&s an   
e>ne/ /udy ( its complex rules &        
regulations4 ,e "o %\ld "k at lea/ "s   
f9e examples ( great national %ields su*
 z ! ,lions ( ,engl&1 ! ,fleur de ,lys (
 ,france1 & ! ,imp]ial ,eagle4 ,examples
 ( %ields surm\nt$ by helmets & cre/s ) 
qua9t & fl[+ mantl+ are to be se5 9 all 
k9ds ( art "w4  ,v>i\s /it*es & me?ods  
specially l5d !mselves to ! expression (
 h]aldry4 ,^? :i*1 l cross /it*1 impose 
a c]ta9 simplicity1 are v good4 ,ano!r  
suitable m$ium is appli$ "w1 ( :i* an   
illu/ration c be se5 on page #ie4 ,gold 
& silv] ?read are v useful "h1 & look   
exceptionally ri* :5 c\*$ 9 ! ,x,i,i,ith
 c5tury me?od4 ,fig4 #adg is an         
embroid]$ coat ( arms dat$ ! fir/ half (
 ! ,x,i,vth c5tury4 ,x is execut$ almo/ 
entirely 9 ! po9t c\*e r5tre ou retire4 
,! arms are ^? ( ! ,cl9ton & ,leyburne  
families--arg5t1 #f cross crosslets     
fit*ee #c1 #b & #a on a *ief azure1 two 
mullets or4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adg4  
,9 design+ h]aldic "w c>e mu/ be tak5 to

 introduce no debas$ =ms su* z 7 curr5t 
aft] ! ,x,vth c5tury4 ,! ,x,i,i,ith &   
,x,i,vth c5turies are ! p]iods consid]$ 
be/ = ! /udy ( ?is subject4 ,h]aldry    
sometimes adds hi/oric int]e/ to        
embroid]ies2 own]s or donors may be     
trac$ by _! coat ( arms appe>+ ^u "s "p 
( ! "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adh4      
,alli$ to h]aldry & m>k+ are a numb] (  
decorative objects t h acquir$ peculi>  
traditional significance ( an emblematic
 or symbolical nature1 h>d to def9e4 ,! 
,cross ( ,*ri/ianity may be in/anc$1 !  
olive bran* ( peace1 ! mirror ( tru?1 & 
! snake ( et]nity4 ,! "n ( a sa9t is    
frequ5tly decl>$ by an emblem accompany+
 ! figure4 ,9 appropriate surr\nd+s     
emblems may (t5 be us$ effectively4 ,= k
 ab\t ^! ?+s ! /ud5t mu/ g to v>i\s     
books t deal ) ! special subject4 ,fig4 
#adh is an illu/ration ( ! well-kn[n    
emblem1 ! ,pelican 9 h] piety4          
,,footnote3  #ac ,?is cope is full (    
int]e/ 9 e detail4 ,see ,m4 ,l\is de    
,f>cy1 ,la ,brod]ie du ,onzieme ,siecle 

jusqu'a ,nos ,j\rs4 ,plate ,,ii4        
,,*apt] ,,xiii  ,,! ,,g>niture ,,( ,,"w 
,f9i%+ (f--,mak+ up--,edges--,use (     
,cord-mak+ ,appliance--,cord   ,twi/$ by
 ,h&--,knott$                           
,cord--,fr+es--,tassels--,knots4   ,:5 !
 embroid]y is complet$1 ! mak+ up1 !    
addition ( ta/eful f9i%+ t\*es1 & su*   
?+s z fr+es1 tassels1 & l9+s1 mu/ all be
 consid]$4 ,^! w1 if judici\sly made use
 (1 give a di/9ction & "* to ! "w t     
might be miss$ if due c>e & ?\ght 7 n   
exp5d$ ^u su* details4 ,?is "p ( ! "w   
might be comp>$ to ! g>ni%+ ( a boil$   
f[l ) lemon & p>sley1 a m9or detail1 b a
 v effective "o4  ,x is possible1 by !  
help ( su* exp$i5ts1 to emphasise c]ta9 
col\rs & br+ out po9ts ( ! design1 z    
well z to give complet5ess & f9i%4 ,su* 
?+s z fr+es1 cords1 & tassels are (t5 m 
satisfactory :5 made by ! work] & )     
mat]ials l ^? us$ 9 ! embroid]y1 = su* w
 be m likely to be 9 keep+ ) ! "* ( !   
re/1 & to be m int]e/+ 9 detail4 ,9 !   
f9i%+ (f ! same ta/e & neatness (       

execution is requir$ z 9 ! embroid]y4   
,good "w c be v mu* m>r$ 9 ! mak+ up2 on
 ! o!r h&1 a little extra int]e/ add$ on
 a "p n (t5 se5 r5d]s x d\bly valuable4 
,! m\nt+ ( c]ta9 ?+s %\ld n be attempt$ 
at home2 boxes %\ld be h&$ ov] to !     
cab9etmak]1 books to ! bookb9d]1 & s on1
 = x is n possible = any "o n an exp]t  
to d ^! ?+s prop]ly1 & ev5 good "w c    
look poor if badly set4  ,! "q h[ to    
appropriately f9i% (f an edge (t5       
arises2 let x be hem /it*$ r ?an pla9   
hemm$2 or a n>r[ l9e ( drawn ?read "w   
may be ins]t$1 = an op5-"w bord] is     
frequ5tly a set-(f to ! re/ ( !         
embroid]y4 ,if a b9d+ is plac$ ov] !    
edge ?is c be fix$ ) a pretty /it*1 or !
 /it* alone c b9d ! edge1 "o su* z      
buttonhole1 ov]ca/1 or t %[n 9 fig4 #gf4
 ,) "s /it*es ! edge ( ! mat]ial c be   
roll$ ov] a pip+ cord & ! /it* work$ ov]
 ! ?us emphasis$ m>g94  ,! difficulty ( 
procur+ cord suitable = use ) embroid]$ 
"w makes ! appliance illu/rat$ at fig4  
#adi a useful possession4#ad ,! cords   

made ^u ?is :eel c be ( any ?ickness1   
accord+ to ! numb] ( plies & ! sub/ance 
9 ea*4 ,diff]5t col\rs & mat]ials c be  
twi/$ up toge!r1 su* z a gold & silk    
?read4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adi4  ,to  
make a ?ree-pli$ cord1 cut ?ree equal   
l5g?s ( ?read r long] ?an ! requir$ cord
 is to be1 z x %ort5s 9 ! twi/+4 ,make a
 loop at ea* end ( ! ?read1 or1 bett]   
/ill1 atta* t9y metal r+s at ! ends4    
,hook ! ?reads 9 position z %[n 9 !     
diagram1 & place ! in/rum5t f> en\gh f !
 clamp$ block ( wood to make ! ?reads t 
are /ret*$ betwe5 q taut4 ,n[ comm5ce ! 
twi/+ by turn+ ! l>ge :eel quickly ) an 
ev5 motion 9 ! direction t cont9ues to  
twi/ up ! ?reads1 keep+ ! left h& on !  
in/rum5t to /eady x1 = x gradually      
slides t[>ds ! block z ! twi/+ cont9ues4
 ,:5 corkscrew-l knots beg9 to come 9 ! 
?reads1 /op revolv+ ! :eel1 unhook ! two
 out] ?reads & place !m bo? on ! c5tral 
hooks toge!r ) ! ?ird ?read1 keep+ !m   
taut dur+ ! process4 ,revolve ! l>ge    
:eel aga91 9 ! direction opposite to t 9

 :i* x has be5 work+1 & cont9ue turn+   
until ! cord is tightly twi/$ up4 ,x is 
n[ made1 & c be remov$ f ! ma*9e4 ,!    
second twi/+ _h bett] be ov]-done r ?an 
n suffici5tly1 s9ce if ov]-twi/$ ! cord 
rights itself ^u be+ remov$ f ! ma*9e4  
,a two-ply cord is made 9 l mann]1 by   
us+ fir/ ! two out] hooks only1 & !n    
plac+ bo? ?reads toge!r on ! c5tral     
hooks4  ,!re is a simple way ( mak+ ?is 
cord )\t ! help ( any in/rum5t1 b x is n
 possible to get ! p]fect result t !    
ma*9e gives4 ,x is mo/ easily c>ri$ out 
by two p]sons1 ?\gh "o c d x4 ,9 ord] to
 make a two-pli$ cord1 by h&1 take a    
?read r m ?an twice ! l5g? ( ! requir$  
cord4 ,let ea* work] take an end ( !    
?read 9 ! "r h& & comm5ce to twi/ x     
betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 ea* work+ 9        
direction opposite to ! o!r & keep+ !   
?read at t5sion4 ,:5 twi/$ z mu* z      
possible )\t gett+ corkscrew-l knots 9 !
 ?read1 ! cord mu/ be d\bl$ 9 half by   
hold+ x at ! c5tre & br++ toge!r ! two  
ends1 :i* are !n knott$4 ,dur+ ! entire 

process ! ?read mu/ be kept "u t5sion4  
,if "o end ( ! cord is n[ let g x %\ld  
imm$iately twi/ itself up tight1 & rema9
 9 t position4 ,if any small knots =m   
dur+ ! process run ! cord %>ply ?r\gh ! 
f+]s once or twice to /raight5 x out4   
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aej4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #aea4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aeb4 
,ano!r pretty k9d ( cord is a knott$ "o4
 ,x is made 9 ! h& 9 mo/ primitive      
fa%ion by us+ ! two fir/ f+]s z cro*et  
hooks4 ,! ?read us$ = mak+ x %\ld be /\t
 & firm4 ,to comm5ce mak+ ! cord1 knot  
two pieces ( ?read toge!r & place !     
?reads 9 position z %[n 9 fig4 #aej4 ,! 
next /ep is %[n 9 fig4 #aea1 :i* is !   
index f+] ( ! left h& br++ ! d>k] ?read 
?r\gh ! loop4 ,fig4 #aeb %[s ?is ?read  
loop$ on ! f+]1 ! cord held 9 ! left h& 
in/ead ( ! "r1 & ! "r h& 9 process (    
draw+ ! light] ?read1 :i* 0 ! la/ loop1 
tight4 ,! next move1 fig4 #aec1 %[s !   
"r-h& fir/ f+] mak+ ! new loop ) !      
light] ?read1 & fig4 #aed %[s ! loop on 
! f+]1 ! cord pass$ ov] to be held 9 !  

"r h& aga91 & ! left h& ?is "t pull+ !  
la/ loop tight4 ,cont9ue mak+ ! cord by 
foll[+ out ! la/ f\r positions          
consecutively4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4     
#aec4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aed4  ,a v  
usual f9i% to an edge is a fr+e4 ,?is c 
be made ei!r by fray+ out ! mat]ial or  
by add+ a deta*$ fr+e1 ei!r knott+ x 9  
or atta*+ x 9 "s o!r way4 ,if ! fr+e is 
to be a fray$-out "o1 ! be/ way to d x  
is to fir/ draw out a few w>p ?reads :]e
 ! head ( ! fr+e is to come1 !n hem /it*
 ! upp] edge ( ?is1 see ! "r-h& end (   
fig4 #aee2 ?is makes ! head+ ( ! fr+e   
secure1 aft] :i* ! rema9d] ( ! w>p      
?reads c be )drawn4 ,:5 fr++ a squ>e 9  
?is fa%ion1 x is well to save "s ( !    
fray+s out to knot 9 at ! f\r corn]s :]e
 o!rwise !re w\ld be gaps4              
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aee4  ,to knot an  
add$ fr+e into ! bord] is a v simple    
matt]4 ,beg9 by cutt+ ! ?reads t are to 
compose x all to "o l5g?1 ab\t d\ble t (
 ! requir$ fr+e4 ,take a few toge!r to  
=m a bun* & d\ble x 9 half4 ,) a /iletto

 make a hole ne> ! edge ( ! mat]ial2 !n 
br+ f ! back a cro*et hook ?r\gh ?is    
hole1 & draw ! loop =m$ by ! d\bl+ ( !  
bun* a little way ?r\gh1 !n take ! ends 
( ! bun* ?r\gh ! loop & draw !m tight 9 
ord] to make ! knott+ firm4             
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aef4  ,!re are _m  
ways ( patt]n+ a pla9 fr+e1 sometimes a 
*ange ( col\r 9 ! knott$-9 ?reads is    
suffici5t1 z %[n 9 fig4 #aef4 ,ano!r v  
usual way is to divide ! bun*es & refa/5
 !m toge!r 9 "s way to =m a patt]n4     
,fig4 #aeg is an example ( ?is2 !y may  
be ei!r knott$ toge!r1 z 9 ! fir/ half (
 ! diagram1 or b\nd ) ?read z 9 ! second
 half1 ! ne$le rea*+ ! requir$ places by
 runn+ 9 zigzag fa%ion up ! ?read & d[n 
aga94  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aeg4  ,a    
simple fr+e c be made ( /r&s twi/$      
toge!r1 z 9 ! fir/ half ( fig4 #aeh4    
,?is is made ^u ! same pr9ciple z !     
twi/$ cord already describ$4 ,ab\t ?ree 
?reads ( ! fr+e are twi/$ up tight1 & an
 adjo9+ ?ree treat$ 9 ! same fa%ion4 ,^!
 ?rees are !n twi/$ toge!r 9 ! direction

 opposite to t :i* has j be5 us$1 & ?us 
are securely lock$ toge!r4 ,! ends ( !  
complet$ fr+e may require a little      
trimm+ (f to make all ( an equal l5g?4  
,! second half ( ! diagram %[s a durable
 & simple fr+e made by a close s]ies (  
knots d[n ! ?read4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 
#aeh4  ,fig4 #aei sugge/s two me?ods by 
:i* a /it*+ ( col\r$ ?read ne> ! m>g9 c 
help to decorate a pla9 fr+$ edge4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aei4  ,a r[ (      
tassels makes a pretty f9i% to v>i\s    
?+s4 ,complicat$ tassel-mak+ requires a 
pr(essional h&2 ev5 a simple tassel     
requires mak+ prop]ly4 ,! fir/ proce$+  
is to w9d "s ?read r\nd a piece (       
c>dbo>d1 :i* %\ld be a little wid] ?an !
 tassel is to be long2 !n d\ble a piece 
( ! same ?read & ?read ! two ends into a
 ne$le1 ?us leav+ a loop at ! usual knot
 end4 ,slip ! ne$le ?r\gh ! c5tre ( !   
w\nd ?read close to ! c>dbo>d1 !n ?r\gh 
! loop & draw ! ?read tight2 ?is w b9d !
 ?reads securely at t po9t4 ,!y c !n be 
cut exactly opposite ?is on ! o!r side1 

:i* w release ! c>dbo>d4 ,give ! b9d+   
?read ano!r tight5+ pull1 & !n take !   
ne$le & ?read /raight ?r\gh ! c5tre1 z  
%[n 9 fig4 #afj1 & fa/5 x (f ) a good   
knot4 ,?is knot w be 9 ! ball "p ( !    
tassel & w help to make x r\nd4 ,next1  
d\ble ! tassel into %ape ready = !      
coll>4 ,?read ! ne$le z be=e & make !   
?read encircle ! tassel1 z %[n 9 !      
second figure 9 ! diagram1 draw+ ! ?read
 q tight1 &1 if necess>y1 w9d+ x sev]al 
times r\nd ! neck ( ! tassel until !    
coll> is ( suffici5t wid?1 !n take !    
ne$le & ?read /raight ?r\gh ! c5tre1    
br++ x out at ! top1 :]e x c be made use
 ( to fix ! tassel 9 its place ^u ! "w4 
,) %>p scissors trim ! edge ( ! tassel  
:i* n[ is complete4 ,! ball "p c be     
fur!r decorat$ by cov]+ x ) an op5      
network ( /it*es 9 "s contra/+ col\r2   
buttonhole & v>i\s lace /it*es c be us$ 
= ! purpose4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afj4 
,,knots  ,knots1 :i* c be v pretty1 are 
at times requir$ 9 embroid]y2 any?+ t   
requires a fa/5+ may give an opportunity

 = "s pretty int]lac+ /rap "w or knott+4
 ,also knots may be practically useful 9
 bo? weav+ & embroid]y1 = sometimes a   
f9i%+ ?read mu/ be knott$ on to a new   
"o1 s9ce !re may be no opportunity (    
mak+ a firm comm5cem5t ) ! aid ( !      
mat]ial4  ,! knot %[n 9 fig4 #afa is    
call$ ! girdle knot2 x might be made use
 ( 9 _m o!r ways4 ,to c>ry x out1 make a
 loop ) "o end ( ! cord & hold x betwe5 
! left f+] & ?umb1 ! loop$ "p be+ t[>ds 
! "r1 & ! end t po9ts d[nw>ds to ! left 
pass+ ov] ! o!r end4 ,take up ! o!r     
piece ( cord1 pass x diagonally across !
 surface ( ! loop1 comm5c+ f ! "r-h& l[]
 side1 !n r\nd "u "o end & ov] ! o!r1 !n
 up into ! loop f und]nea?1 ov] its own 
end t crosses ! loop !re1 & !n out "u ! 
loop at ! top "r-h& corn]4              
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afa4  ,! ,*9ese    
knot1 :i* is us$ = a sailor's coll>1 is 
%[n 9 fig4 #afb4 ,! loop$ end c be left 
z l>ge z necess>y4 ,to "w x ! fir/ "p ( 
! knot is laid 9 position on ! table1   
comm5c+ at po9t ,a2 = ! latt] "p 7f po9t

 ,c7 ! ?read is int]lac$ ?r\gh to !     
f9i%4 ,x c !n be pull$ tight1 tak+ c>e 9
 ! draw+-toge!r process t ! v>i\s loops 
are adju/$ 9 "r position4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #afb4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afc4 
,ano!r ornam5tal knot is %[n at fig4    
#afc4 ,to make x--,=m a loop & hold x   
betwe5 ! left ?umb & f+]1 ! loop po9t+  
to ! "r1 ! long] end po9t+ upw>ds &     
pass+ ov] ! end t po9ts d[nw>ds4 ,take  
hold ( ! end po9t+ upw>ds1 pass x       
p]p5dicul>ly d[nw>ds across ! surface ( 
! loop1 !n r\nd "u ! o!r end1 up ov] its
 own end1 "u ! side ( ! loop1 ov] its   
own end t lies across ! loop1 & out "u !
 loop at ! "r-h& end4 ,pull z tight z   
requir$4 ,all ^! knots may be made (    
d\ble cord by runn+ a second ?r\gh1     
foll[+ ! lead ( ! fir/1 j be=e tight5+  
up ! knot4 ,! "o la/ describ$ may be    
made ( d\bl$ cord f ! comm5cem5t1 !     
loop$ end be+ us$ z ! work+ end3 ! knot 
w !n f9i% (f ) a loop at "o end1 :i* c  
be us$ z a loop or cut if requir$4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afd4  ,fig4 #afd is

 an example ( a pretty piece ( int]lac+ 
/rap "w atta*$ to a fa/5+4  ,! weav]s'  
knot 7fig4 #afe7 is useful = practical  
purposes 9 bo? weav+ & embroid]y2 ?is   
knot is univ]sally employ$ by ! cotton  
weav]s :5 ! w>p breaks4 ,x is made z    
foll[s--,place ! two ends t are to be   
knott$ toge!r betwe5 ! ?umb & fir/ f+] (
 ! left h& 9 su* a way t !y cross ea*   
o!r at "r angles1 ! end t po9ts t[>ds ! 
left pass+ "u ! "o po9t+ t[>ds ! "r4    
,pass ! long end ( ?read t hangs d[n    
t[>ds ! "r1 & :i* is ! newly atta*+     
piece1 ov] ! ?umb1 r\nd ! back ( ! end  
po9t+ to ! left 9 front ( ! o!r end1 &  
let x hang d[n aga9 t[>ds ! "r1 hold+ ! 
loop ?us made betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]2 !n   
pass ! end po9t+ t[>ds ! "r d[n ?r\gh   
?is loop & out on ! opposite side4 ,to  
draw ! knot tight1 pull ! end :i* hangs 
d[n t[>ds ! "r1 :i* w tight5 ! loop & s 
complete ! knot4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4   
#afe4  ,! reef knot 7fig4 #aff7 is ano!r
 useful "o1 & x has ?is advantage ov] ! 
weav]'s knot1 t bo? %ort ends return    

p>allel to ! long ones in/ead ( go+ (f  
at an angle2 ?is makes x neat] = "s     
purposes4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aff4    
,,footnote3  #ad ,?is w be f\nd describ$
 9 detail 9 ,*apt] ,,ii4 ,!re is an     
int]e/+ draw+ ( a neat little ma*9e1    
simil> to ?is1 b work$ by cog:eels1 9   
,l',art du ,brodeur1 by ,g]ma9 de ,/4   
,aub9 7#aggj74     ,,*apt] ,,xiv        
,,practical ,,directions    ,transf]r+  
,patt]ns--,pa/e = ,embroid]y            
,purposes--,protection &   ,pres]vation 
( ,"w--,wa%+ ,embroid]y--,prev5tion &   
,cure (   ,puck]$ ,"w--,po9ts ab\t !    
,?read--,dress+ ! ,frame4   ,! be/ me?od
 ( gett+ ! patt]n on to ! mat]ial is to 
draw x on directly ) a bru%2 s9ce ?is1  
h[ev]1 is n always possible1 o!r ways ( 
do+ x c be employ$4  ,! patt]n c be     
transf]r$ to ! backgr\nd by a process   
call$ p\nc+4 ,to d ?is fix "s trac+-pap]
 ov] ! design & c>efully take ! outl9e2 
a good m>g9 ( pla9 pap] %\ld be left    
r\nd ! outside 9 ord] to prev5t any ( ! 
p\nce gett+ accid5tally rubb$ on to !   

embroid]y4 ,! next process is ! p]=ation
 ( ! patt]n4 ,lay ! trac+ ^u "s sub/ance
 ( ! nature ( ?ick felt1 !n ) a prick]  
or a ne$le1 held 9 an upright position1 
pi]ce t9y holes all r\nd ! outl9e ( !   
patt]n1 v close toge!r4 ,?is complet$1  
atta* ! p]=at$ trac+ securely to !      
mat]ial1 ! smoo? side ( ! p]=ations     
t[>ds ! /uff4 ,bo? mat]ial & trac+ pap] 
may be fix$ to a bo>d ) draw+ p9s4      
,next1 rub ! p\nce1 :i* consi/s ( f9ely 
p[d]$ *>coal or ( :ite *alk1 lightly ov]
 ! p]=at$ p>ts ) a s(t pad1 keep+ !     
rubb+ always 9 ! same direction2 once or
 twice at ! mo/ ov] ! surface is q      
suffici5t1 (t5 too mu* is rubb$ ?r\gh1  
:i* aft]w>ds is only 9 ! way4 ,! pad1   
fir/ dipp$ into ! p\nce1 is rubb$       
prep>atorily ^u "s pap] to remove !     
sup]flu\s p[d]1 & !n ^u ! actual "w4    
,c>efully remove ! trac+-pap]2 !re %\ld 
n[ be visible ^u ! surface ( ! mat]ial1 
9 *>coal du/1 a p]fectly cle>           
reproduction ( ! patt]n4 ,%\ld1 h[ev]1 !
 impression be blurr$1 x is q easy to   

flick ev]y?+ away ) a du/] & repeat !   
process4 ,! causes ( failure w\ld mo/   
probably be t ! p]=ations 7 too l>ge or 
too f> ap>t1 or t !re 0 "s movem5t (    
ei!r pap] or mat]ial dur+ ! process4 ,x 
is necess>y = ! patt]n to be p]man5tly  
fix$ ^u ! gr\nd mat]ial2 bl[ lightly to 
remove any sup]flu\s p[d]1 !n1 ) a bru% 
dipp$ 9 light r$ oil-pa9t moi/5$ )      
turp5t9e1 trace a f9e cle> l9e ov] !    
p[d]$ patt]n4 ,:5 ?is is dry1 :at is    
left ( ! *>coal c be lightly du/$ away4 
,r$ is 9 mo/ cases a good col\r to use =
 trac+ purposes1 = if by *ance any trac+
 %\ld %[ or come (f on ! ?read x w be a 
clean-look+ col\r1 & "o comp>atively    
easily remov$ 9 any aft] clean+4  ,r$ or
 blue c>bonis$ pap] is us$ = trac+      
patt]ns2 x is n a good m$ium ?\gh x may 
be an exp$iti\s "o4 ,if x is us$1 an    
aft] pa9t+ ov] ! outl9e w make ! m>k+   
p]man5t4  ,:5 p\nc+ or pa9t+ is         
difficult1 a me?od ( indicat+ ! patt]n  
^u ! /uff is to trace ! design on tissue
 pap]1 & tack x to ! gr\nd mat]ial )    

cotton1 ! /it*+ ( :i* %\ld foll[ !      
outl9e ( ! design1 & be kept z mu* z    
possible ^u ! front4 ,! ?9 pap] is !n   
torn away1 & !re w be "s sugge/ion (    
patt]n left ^u ! mat]ial4  ,transp>5t   
gr\nd /uffs ne$ only be laid ^u !       
patt]n2 !n ! trac+ c be tak5 directly on
 ! /uff4  ,pa/e is sometimes 9 reque/ = 
embroid]y purposes2 ! foll[+ is a good  
recipe--,p\r r less ?an half a p9t (    
cold wat] into a saucepan1 add to ?is a 
piece ( c>p5t]'s glue ab\t ! size ( a   
small filb]t & place x on ! fire to     
heat4 ,put ?ree teaspoonfuls ( fl\r into
 a bas91 & ) cold wat] mix to a smoo?   
pa/e2 :5 ! wat] 9 ! saucepan boils add x
 to ! pa/e1 /irr+ well all ! "t2 !n     
place ! mixture 9 ! saucepan & boil =   
ab\t two m9utes4 ,:5 cold x is ready =  
use4 ,x may be requir$ z a pres]vative2 
= in/ance1 canvas "w :5 f9i%$ c h a ?9  
coat+ ( pa/e rubb$ ov] ! back 9 ord] to 
pres]ve ! /it*es f giv+ or runn+2 :5 !  
"w is to be us$ = su* ?+s z furniture   
cov]+s ?is may be a good ?+ to d4       

,appli$ "w is sometimes pa/$ on to its  
new gr\nd1 & a back+ may be fix$ to !   
surface mat]ial by pa/e4 ,! m all ?is c 
be avoid$ ! bett]1 = its t5d5cy is to   
give a /iff me*anical look to "w2       
pr(essional p1 h[ev]1 are r fond ( !    
pa/e pot4 ,pa/e1 if us$1 mu/ be ( ! "r  
k9d1 or x w d m h>m ?an good4 ,x %\ld be
 v fre%1 & h no acid 9 its +r$i5ts1 (   
:i* gum arabic mu/ n be "o if any aft]  
/it*+ has to take place ?r\gh ! /uff1 = 
gum makes x h>d & less p5etrable4 ,!    
pa/e mu/ be appli$ & all[$ to dry       
?or\ghly be=e ! "w is remov$ f ! frame4 
,a f+] makes a good bru% = ! purpose4 ,!
 pa/e %\ld be put on z ?9ly & ev5ly z   
possible1 c>e be+ tak5 n to rub on !    
cross ( ! mat]ial1 s9ce ?is might /ret* 
x unev5ly4  ,%oemak]s' pa/e is easily   
procur$1 & c be us$ = embroid]y         
purposes4 ,?is is made f rye fl\r1 & is 
v /rong4 ,x is h>mless if p]fectly fre%4
  ,a good _m ?+s g to ! keep+ ( "w fre% 
& ord]ly1 :i* is a v important matt]4 ,!
 "w mu/ be kept c>efully cov]$ up :5 n 9

 use2 f9i%$ p>ts c sometimes be cov]$   
:il/ ! "w is go+ on1 = ! cov]+ is easily
 rais$ :5 comp>ison ) ! "p 9 progress is
 necess>y4 ,! "w %\ld h "s protection if
 ! h& re/s on x2 ! work] %\ld we> a :ite
 apron ) sleeves4 ,! work]'s h& %\ld be 
cool1 dry1 & smoo?2 hot h&s %\ld        
frequ5tly be wa%$4 ,! use ( pumice /one 
cures slight r\ghness1 b f9e "w _c be   
attempt$ if ! f+]s are = any reason     
con/antly r\gh4 ,wools & silks ne$ a    
case to keep !m ord]ly & clean4 ,! be/  
way to pres]ve valuable embroid]y is to 
frame x1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 is n always      
practicable1 b x is a sure safegu>d     
aga9/ mo? & du/4  ,= wa%+ embroid]y     
special soap %\ld be procur$4 ,x is n   
well to use any ord9>y soap1 = ?is may  
conta9 alkali1 :i* w\ld injure ! col\rs 
9 ! "w4 ,dissolve ! soap 9 boil+ wat]1 &
 add cold to make x j w>m & ( ! requir$ 
/r5g?4 ,imm]se ! embroid]y 9 ! la!r ?us 
made1 & "w x ab\t g5tly1 avoid+ any     
friction4 ,:5 clean1 r9se fir/ 9 w>m    
wat]1 aft]w>ds 9 cold1 to :i* a little  

salt may be add$4 ,! wat] mu/ be squeez$
 out c>efully & ! mat]ial quickly dri$4 
,if iron+ is necess>y x mu/ be done on !
 wrong side1 b if ! "w c be p9n$ out on 
a bo>d to dry1 & 9 ?is way /ret*$ &     
smoo!d )\t any iron+1 s mu* ! bett]1 = !
 embroid]y w n be flatt5$ at all4 ,ano!r
 way ( iron+ embroid]y t is n h>mful is 
to d x f und]nea? :ile "s "o holds out !
 mat]ial4  ,x is easy to prev5t ! puck]+
 ( "w :5 x is c>ri$ out 9 ! frame2 !re  
is1 h[ev]1 no necessity = x to occur 9  
h& "w4 ,c]ta9 /it*es are m incl9$ to    
draw up ! mat]ial ?an o!rs1 & extra c>e 
has to be tak5 9 work+ ^u ! cross ( !   
fabric4 ,! "w %\ld be held 9 convex     
fa%ion ov] ! f+]s ( ! left h&4 ,weights 
are occasionally atta*$ to ! corn]s ( ! 
"w to prev5t any unconsci\s draw+ ( x   
up4  ,!re are rem$ies = ! cure (        
slightly puck]$ "w4 ,place on a         
draw+-bo>d "s clean blott+-pap]1 damp x 
ev5ly ov] ) a wet h&k]*ief1 & !n lay !  
"w1 "r side up1 ^u x4 ,fix ! "w d[n to !
 bo>d ) draw+-p9s1 ins]t$ at regul> %ort

 int]vals r\nd ! edge1 endeav\r+ dur+ ! 
process to /ret* ! mat]ial to its       
orig9al %ape4 ,?is ne$s do+ c>efully1 = 
x is q possible to /ret* x to a wrong   
%ape1 & x w rema9 z n[ p9n$ out4 ,next1 
lay "s :ite pap] or a h&k]*ief ^u !     
surface ( ! "w1 & !n place ^u x a flat  
weight t presses equally on e "p ( !    
embroid]y4 ,leave x undi/urb$ = a night1
 & ! puck]+ w probably be cur$4 ,"w1 if 
n puck]$1 may be improv$ by go+ ?r\gh   
?is process1 :i* practically am\nts to a
 mild iron+1 b )\t any injuri\s effects4
  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afg4  ,!re are   
v>i\s po9ts ab\t ! ?read t %\ld be kn[n4
 ,to comm5ce a new ?read run a few      
/it*es 9 ! mat]ial ^u ! "r side ^u a "p 
t w aft]w>ds be cov]$ by ! work+4 ,?is  
is a bett] way ?an a fa/5+ on ! wrong   
side1 = x is bo? neat] & m secure4 ,a   
knot made at ! beg9n+ is fairly safe1 b 
x is undesirable = sev]al reasons4 ,!   
ne$leful %\ld n be l5g?y le/ x gets worn
 be=e x is all work$ 94 ,) "s ?reads x  
is important to ?read only ! prop] end  

into ! eye ( ! ne$le1 s9ce "o way !y w  
"w 9 r\ghly & ! o!r way smoo?ly4 ,an end
 ( a co>se ?read c be tak5 ?r\gh to !   
back ( ! mat]ial by ! help ( a f9e "o2 !
 f9e ?read is br\ght ?r\gh f ! back by !
 ne$le1 x !n encircles ! co>se "o1 &    
returns to ! back by ! same hole1 pull+ 
! co>se ?read ) x1 z 9 process 9 fig4   
#afg4 ,tak+ x ?r\gh by ! aid ( a ?ick   
ne$le w\ld make too l>ge a hole4 ,?read 
c be knott$ into ! eye ( ! ne$le if =   
any reason x is requir$ to be q safe f  
accid5tal un?read+4 ,! neate/ way ( do+ 
?is is to pass ! ne$le ?r\gh ! c5tre ( !
 ?read & draw x tight2 ?is is a useful  
trick = any unskill$ work] ) ne$les &   
?read1 = re-?read+ also may be a        
difficulty4 ,:5 "w has to be unpick$ x  
is bett] to cut ! ?reads r ?an d any    
draw+ out1 = !y are 9 any case unfit =  
fur!r use1 & ?is me?od we>s ! mat]ial   
less2 a beg9n] mu/ n %irk unpick+ if    
fir/-rate results are to be obta9$4     
,,frame ,,"w  ,c]ta9 /it*es & me?ods (  
"w _c be c>ri$ out except ) ! help ( a  

frame1 o!rs are h& /it*es1 & "s few c be
 work$ ei!r way4 ,"w done 9 a frame     
takes long] ?an t done by h&1 & is r m  
fatigu+4 ,ea* me?od has its advantages2 
9 ! frame x is p]haps easi] to get good 
te*nique1 = difficulties su* z puck]+ ! 
mat]ial1 irregul> /it*+1 & s on1 are m  
easily avoid$1 also x is m possible to  
see ! effect ( ! :ole :il/ ! "p         
progresses4 ,9 frame "w a ?imble is     
requir$ = ea* h&1 = "o pu%es ! ne$le    
?r\gh f above & "o f bel[4 ,x is a re/  
to be able to rev]se ! h&s1 s bo? %\ld  
be equally dext]\s 9 ei!r position4  ,to
 dress ! frame correctly is an important
 prelim9>y1 = unless done well ! effect 
( mu* aft] lab\r may be spoil$4 ,9 !    
*apt] ^u tools & appliances 9 fig4 #i is
 %[n a piece ( l95 /ret*$ 9 ! frame     
ready = comm5c+ "w4  ,! squ>e ( mat]ial 
t is se5 to be ins]t$ 9 ! c5tre ( !     
/ret*$ l95 is to %[ h[ a v small piece  
or a portion ( a l>ge surface c\ld be   
/ret*$ 9 ! same siz$ frame4 ,a corn] may
 require m>k+ or a small detail (       

embroid]y c>ry+ out ^u x4 ,a portion is 
cut out ( ! c5tre ( ! /ret*$ l951 & !   
piece or "p ( ! mat]ial to be work$     
/it*$ securely to x1 z illu/rat$ 9 !    
diagram4 ,! rema9d] ( ! mat]ial1 if !re 
is any1 c be fold$ up & p9n$ out ( ! way
 ov] ! roll]s4  ,to return to ! dress+ (
 ! frame--! l95 to be /ret*$1 be=e be+  
fix$ 9 place1 mu/ be hemm$ or h]r+-bon$ 
d[n at ! top & base & !n sewn ) ov]ca/  
/it*es to ! webb+s1 incl9+ dur+ !       
process to puck] ! webb+ r ?an !        
mat]ial4 ,! side pieces c n[ be put     
?r\gh ! holes at ! ends ( ! roll]s & !  
metal p9s ins]t$1 or nuts adju/$1 z !   
case may be1 9 ord] to /ret* ! mat]ial  
to ! "r t5sion4 ,! raw edges at ! sides 
mu/ n[ be turn$ 9 or b\nd ) tape1 & a   
/r+ securely atta*$ at int]vals along ! 
edge2 ?is is = lac+ ! /r+ ?r\gh t n[    
braces ! mat]ial to ! sides ( ! frame   
7see fig4 #a74 ,! screw-sid$ frame has  
an advantage ov] ! side pieces %[n 9    
fig4 #i1 9 t 9 ! =m] an extra turn c1 at
 ?is po9t1 be giv5 to ! nuts to /ill    

fur!r /ret* ! mat]ial2 on ! o!r h&1 "s  
work]s pref] ! flat side pieces1 ?9k+ t 
!y make ! frame m rigid4  ,if ! mat]ial1
 :5 fix$ to ! two webb+s1 is too long = 
! frame1 x mu/ be w\nd r\nd "o ( !      
roll]s until ( ! correct size4 ,?is mu/ 
be done c>efully1 = a delicate fabric   
might get damag$ 9 ! process2 ! roll] c 
be padd$ ) s(t pap]1 & an int]l9+ (     
tissue pap] c be ins]t$ & w\nd up ) !   
mat]ial4 ,x may n always be desirable to
 d ?is w9d+ r\nd ! roll]s2 9 t case f9e 
glaz$ holl& c be /ret*$ 9 ! frame1 & !  
"p to be fir/ embroid]$ fix$ to x4 ,:5 !
 fir/ "p ( ! "w is complet$1 ! holl& is 
cut out ( ! frame & fre% pieces         
sub/itut$ z ! "w goes on4 ,if x is n    
wi%$ t ! /it*es %\ld be tak5 ?r\gh bo?  
surfaces1 z w\ld "h be ! case1 x w\ld be
 possible to cut ! l95 p>tly away       
und]nea?1 & use x only z a k9d ( inn]   
frame = /ret*+ ! mat]ial on1 9 a way    
some:at l t already describ$ 7see fig4  
#i74  ,a back+ to ! mat]ial1 h[ev]1 is  
(t5 a necessity--p]haps heavy "w may be 

put on x or ! /uff itself is fragile2 9 
su* cases !re mu/ be a back+ ( "s k9d4  
,?is usually consi/s ( f9e holl& or l951
 :i* is fir/ /ret*$ 9 ! frame & !n has !
 surface mat]ial securely /it*$ to x )  
ov]ca/ /it*es1 c>e be+ tak5 t bo?       
mat]ials are equally /ra9$4  ,to frame  
velvet1 sew x to ! webb+ by ! selv$ges  
or t way ( ! mat]ial1 s9ce ! pile ) t   
arrangem5t is m manageable :5 !         
embroid]y is 9 progress4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #afh4     ,,"p ,,ii  ,,tape/ry    
,,weav+     ,,*apt] ,,xv  ,,introduction
   ,weav+1 a mo/ anci5t art1 naturally  
prec$es embroid]y1 = ?is necessitates an
 already exi/+ gr\nd /uff1 :i* is       
g5]ally "s k9d ( wov5 mat]ial4 ,all     
v>ieties ( weav+ are done by "o         
little-v>i$ me?od1 t ( ! weft pass+ to &
 fro 9 & out ( ! w>p1 & ?us b9d+ ! :ole 
into a fabric or web4  ,! k9d ( weav+   
:i* dem&s f ! work] ! greate/ arti/ic   
skill is t :i* produc$ ! great          
ma/]pieces ( ,fl&]s1 once kn[n z ,arras1
 f ! t[n ( t "n1 & n[ commonly call$    

,gobel9s tape/ry1 s nam$ f !            
,manufacture des ,gobel9s 9 ,p>is1 at   
:i* e/abli%m5t1 f\nd$ ov] ?ree hundr$   
ye>s ago1 x is /ill produc$4  ,x is ?is 
k9d ( weav+ t is n[ to be discuss$1 b   
)\t ! lea/ sugge/ion t ! pupil %\ld "w  
^u a scale s l>ge z is usually foll[$1  
?\gh !re is no reason aga9/ do+ s if x  
is practicable4 ,tape/ry weav+ is s     
con/antly associat$ ) objects ( l>ge    
size1 su* z wall hang+s1 t x is sc>cely 
realis$ z an art 9 ?is small] way & z an
 alt]native to embroid]y4 ,yet x c be "w
 ( a mo/ int]e/+ k9d ev5 :5 produc$ 9   
pieces only six in*es squ>e1 z is well  
%[n by exi/+ specim5s ( ! "w ( ! weav]s 
9 ,egypt :o fl\ri%$ 9 ! e>ly c5turies ( 
! ,*ri/ian era4 ,examples ( ?is "w c be 
se5 9 _m museums2 !y consi/ frequ5tly ( 
decorative panels ( tape/ry "w inlaid 9 
l95 tunics & /uffs t h be5 us$ z grave  
clo!s4 ,^! e>ly ,coptic examples are1 l 
all tape/ry1 built up by int]weav+ v>i\s
 ?reads ^u w>p-/r+s /ret*$ 9 close      
p>allel l9es4 ,by v>y+ ! col\r ( !      

?reads t are ?us manipulat$ ^u ! w>p1   
patt]ns ( any degree ( complexity c be  
built up directly by h&1 & )\t !        
assi/ance ( any fur!r me*anical         
contrivance4 ,! peculi>ity ( ?is anci5t 
weav+ is t ! patt]ns are frequ5tly wov5 
^u ! w>p-?reads ( "s fabric1 f :i* !    
weft ei!r has be5 remov$1 or1 :at is    
p]haps m probable1 be5 purposely left   
out :5 ! mat]ial 0 made1 to leave space 
= ?is decorative patt]n weav+ to be add$
 to x4  ,! ,lat9 "n = ! workman :o 9 ?is
 way wove 9 ! ornam5tal patt]ns 0       
,plum>ius1 :i* is a "n kn[n to be appli$
 to an embroid]] also4 ,?is weav+ (     
small subjects is c]ta9ly v little      
remov$ f embroid]y2 x may fairly be     
call$ ne$lework1 = x is z (t5 c>ri$ out 
) ne$les z ) bobb9s1 ! =m] be+ frequ5tly
 bett] suit$ to ! size ( ! "w4  ,9      
execution weav+ is n m difficult ?an    
embroid]$ "w2 x c be done 9 an ord9>y   
room & ^u a simple loom t is n m        
cumb]some ?an an embroid]y frame2 9 fact
 an embroid]y frame c sometimes be us$ 9

 ! place ( a loom4  ,weav+ takes ab\t z 
long 9 do+ z f9ely /it*$ solid          
ne$lework1 = 9 weav+ ! entire fabric is 
made1 bo? patt]n & gr\nd4 ,! spe$ ) :i* 
! "w c be done ( c\rse v>ies            
consid]ably1 be+ ma9ly dep5d5t ^u !     
design t is be+ c>ri$ out4 ,also !      
quality ( ! mat]ials us$ affects ! rate 
( work+2 = in/ance1 ! ?ickness ( !      
w>p-/r+s & ! plac+ ( !m ne>] toge!r or  
fur!r ap>t4 ,moreov] ! weft may be      
compos$ ( "o /r& or ( sev]al /r&s       
toge!r4  ,9 weav+1 unless ! mat]ials us$
 are v f9e1 x is impossible to get m9ute
 detail 9 draw+2 =tunately x is seldom  
necess>y to attempt mu* ( ?is4 ,! simpl]
 & m direct "w is z good z1 & sometimes 
bett] ?an1 t ) f9ely gradat$ col\r1     
%ad+1 & =m4 ,on ! o!r h&1 "w1 small 9   
scale1 ev5 ?\gh simply treat$1 does n   
look well :5 c>ri$ out ) v co>se        
mat]ials1 = !y seem out ( proportion to 
! size ( x4  ,! ma9 difficulty 9 !      
te*nique ( ! "w lies 9 ! atta9m5t ( good
 draughtsman%ip1 :i* ( c\rse includes   

light & %ade z well z outl9e4 ,x is     
naturally m difficult to draw by means (
 bobb9 & ?read1 9 horizontal l9es1 ?an  
to "w unre/rict$ly ) a p5cil1 or ev5 )  
an embroid]y ne$le4  ,!re is a great    
deal 9 ! prep>ation ( ! design2 z 9 all 
o!r crafts ?is mu/ be suit$ to ! me?od (
 "w2 o!rwise ! difficulties ( execution 
w be greatly increas$ & ! result w be   
less satisfactory4 ,?is is ev5 m        
important 9 weav+ ?an 9 embroid]y1 = 9 !
 latt] ! /it* & me?od may possibly be   
*os5 to suit ! design1 b 9 weav+ no     
v>iation ( /it* is possible2 all mu/ be 
c>ri$ out 9 ! same way4  ,tape/ry weav+1
 :e!r = wall hang+s or = small objects1 
has ! same te*nical difficulties1 &     
c]ta9 re/rictions gov]n all "w ( ! k9d4 
,"o po9t to be obs]v$ is1 ! ma9 l9es ( !
 design %\ld g z little z possible 9 !  
same direction z ! w>p ?reads4 ,?is is  
because ) ea* *ange ( col\r 9 ! weft t  
occurs 9 ! direction ( ! w>p1 !re comes 
an inevitable sep>ation 9 ! wov5        
mat]ial1 :i*1 (t repeat$1 w\ld mat]ially

 impair ! /r5g? ( ! fabric4 ,! less     
frequ5tly ?is occurs1 ( c\rse1 ! bett]1 
s9ce x entails additional lab\r1 ei!r a 
jo9+-toge!r /it* at ! "t ( work+ or an  
aft]-sew+ up f ! back4 ,long l9es made  
by *ange ( col\r go+ /raight or at a    
slight angle across ! w>p-?reads1 are   
p]fectly simple to manage1 & ! hat*+    
l9es ( %ad+1 z well z ! outl9e1 %\ld be 
tak5 z mu* z possible 9 ?is direction4  
,x w be notic$ t mo/ tape/ries h ! ribb$
 l9es ( w>p go+ horizontally across2 9 !
 loom ^! l9es are p]p5dicul>1 s ?is     
means t ! design has be5 plac$ & c>ri$  
out sideways ^u x4 ,?is is = ! reason j 
"u discussion1 = ! long l9es ( a design 
are mo/ frequ5tly p]p5dicul>1 take1 =   
in/ance1 l9es ( figures1 drap]ies1 or   
ar*itecture1 & s by plac+ ! design      
sideways 9 ! loom1 mo/ ( ! important    
l9es w come 9 ! direction mo/ easy = !  
work+ ( !m4  ,) small pieces x frequ5tly
 does n matt] :i* way x is c>ri$ out1 b 
x is useful to "k :5 mak+ ! design t !re
 is ! alt]native ( plac+ x ei!r way ^u !

 w>p-?reads4 ,if ?is matt] 7 n consid]$ 
& arrang$1 !re might come a good deal ( 
twi/+ r\nd "o or two w>p-?reads :i* w\ld
 be mo/ unsatisfactory 9 work+ & 9      
appe>ance4 ,a b& ( pla9 col\r fram+ a   
squ>e piece ( "w w be f\nd to be        
completely deta*$ f ! c5tre "p ^u ea*   
side ( ! squ>e1 al?\gh work+ 9 v        
/raight=w>dly at ! top & base2 if1      
in/ead ( be+ a /raight b&1 ! inn] edge 0
 v&yk$1 ! "w w\ld be well knitt$ toge!r 
^u all sides 7see fig4 #afi74 ,9 su*    
ways z ?is ! te*nical pitfalls c be     
some:at avoid$ by a design] :o und]/&s !
 me?od ( ! "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4     
#afi4  ,to lay d[n def9ite rules =      
design+ is practically impossible2 "r & 
wrong dep5d ^u s _m circum/ances4 ,!    
/udy ( f9e tape/ries ( ! be/ p]iods is  
"o ( ! mo/ satisfactory ways ( le>n+ :at
 "o may or may n attempt2 ! beautifully 
fl[]$ gr\nds 9 _m ( ^! %[ :at excell5t  
motives fl[]s make1 & h[ !y %\ld be     
treat$4 ,x is n usually a good plan to  
introduce 9 any "p ( ! "w mu* pla9      

gr\nd1 = x is incl9$ to look poor2 ?is  
is v likely ! reason :y ! grass 9       
tape/ry-l& is (t5 cov]$ ) su* pr(usion (
 fl[]s4 ,tape/ry calls = beautiful      
col\r1 ri*ness1 & pl5ty ( int]e/+       
detail2 x is ess5tially decorative "w1 &
 mu/ be treat$ z su*4 ,! arrangem5t (   
col\rs & tones ne$ to be %>ply def9$2 if
 by *ance a d>k leaf comes aga9/ ano!r  
d>k "o1 a l9e ( light col\r is sometimes
 delib]ately run betwe51 p]haps %ad+ or 
outl9+ "o ( ! =ms2 a fl[] may ev5 *ange 
its col\r z x passes ov] diff]5t        
backgr\nds2 :at is m rem>kable is t ?is 
*ange1 unless s\ght =1 is imp]ceptible4 
,! "w may be appli$ to all k9ds ( uses1 
su* z cov]+s = furniture1 mats1 curta9s1
 bell-pulls1 book-cov]s1 bags1 boxes1 & 
s =?4 ,any?+ t hangs ^u a wall is       
p>ticul>ly suitable = work+ 9 tape/ry1 =
 at a little di/ance ?is k9d ( "w %[s up
 m effectively ?an embroid]$ "w does4 ,a
 great _m articles1 su* z alms-bags1    
frontals ( all k9ds1 /oles & book-m>k]s1
 = use 9 *ur*es c\ld mo/ excell5tly be  

c>ri$ out 9 tape/ry4     ,,*apt] ,,xvi  
,,necess>y ,,appliances ,,& ,,mat]ials  
,! ,loom--,mirror--,bobb9s & ,ne$les--,!
 ,comb--,embroid]y ,frame   treat$ z a  
,loom--,w>p--,wools--,silk--,gold &     
,silv] ,?read4   ,,tools ,,&            
,,appliances  ,! *ief requisite = weav+ 
is ! loom2 ?is c be made by a c>p5t] f a
 work+ draw+4 ,9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t   
,museum !re is a model ( a small tape/ry
 loom1 pres5t$ by ,william ,morris1 :i* 
a novice w d well to exam9e4 ,x is q    
possible to c>ry out a small piece (    
weav+ ^u an embroid]y frame1 b to "w 9 a
 loom :i* has all ! prop] appliances is 
always quick]1 bett]1 & absolutely      
necess>y ) "w ( any size4  ,!re are two 
ma9 v>ieties ( tape/ry loom1 "o 9 :i* ! 
w>p-?reads are horizontal1 & ano!r 9 :i*
 !y are v]tical4 ,! latt] k9d is        
consid]$ to give ! be/ results1 ma9ly   
ow+ to ! possibility ( ! work]'s see+ ! 
"r side ( ! "w :il/ x is 9 progress4    
,?is is a great advantage1 = tape/ry is 
wov5 ) ! rev]se side t[>ds ! work]1 &   

progresses by su* gradual /eps t ! weav]
 is prone to lose sight ( ! :ole :il/   
pay+ att5tion to ! "p 9 progress1 & x w 
be easily und]/ood t to be able to g    
r\nd & view ! entire piece is ( imm5se  
help4 ,a detail may p]haps be correct$  
dur+ ! progress ( ! "w1 b aft]w>ds ?is  
w\ld be an awkw>d matt]4 ,x is "o ( !   
difficulties ( weav+ to h to f9i%       
completely ea* /ep z x comes up4 ,work+ 
f ! wrong side is n s h>d z x might     
seem1 = bo? sides are practically alike2
 ! side t[>ds ! work]1 h[ev]1 %[s ends (
 ?read & ?read pass+ f "o place to      
ano!r1 :i* make x some:at unpres5table4 
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agj4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #aga4  ,fig4 #agj %[s a draw+ ( a
 small loom ) "s w>p /ret*$ ^u x 9      
read9ess = comm5c+ "w4 ,x /&s ^u !      
gr\nd1 & is ab\t #d feet high by #b-a_/b
 feet wide4 ,x is made ( bee*wood2 a h>d
 wood l ?is is be/1 = !re mu/ be no     
possibility ( ! roll]s b5d+ ) ! /ra9 ( !
 w>p4 ,! loom consi/s ( two uprights /&+
 ^u heavy feet2 ^! uprights are jo9$    

toge!r at ! top & base by /r5g!n+ cross 
b>s4 ,two wood5 roll]s are fix$ into !  
uprights 7see ,a & ,b 9 fig4 #agj7 & 9 !
 surface ( ea* ( ^! a n>r[ groove is    
holl[$ out l5g?wise 7see fig4 #aga72 ?is
 is = ! purpose ( hold+ a long metal p91
 by means ( :i* ! w>p-?reads are kept 9 
place4 ,! roll]s are fitt$ at "o        
extremity ) a h&le = turn+ !m r\nd1 & at
 ! o!r ) a rat*et & too!d :eel to prev5t
 unw9d+4 ,! purpose ( ! upp] roll] is to
 hold ! supply ( w>p-?read & unw9d x z  
requir$2 ! l[] "o is = w9d+ up ! web z !
 "w progresses1 s t ^u a loom ( ?is size
 a piece ( "w ( consid]able l5g? c      
easily be c>ri$ out4  ,illu/ration3     
,fig4 #agb4  ,! w>p soon aft] x passes f
 ! top roll] is divid$ into two leaves  
by a cyl9drical wood5 b> ab\t "o in* 9  
diamet]1 call$ ! cross /ave 7see fig4   
#agb74 ,! cross /ave may be oval or r\nd
 9 section2 if x is oval ! w>p-?reads   
may be mov$ m widely ap>t :5 requir$ by 
turn+ ! /ave r\nd1 b ?is is n (t5       
necess>y4 ,! upp] "p ( ! cross /ave c be

 se5 9 position 9 ! loom diagram1 :i*   
%[s also h[ ! /ave divides ! ?reads1 :i*
 pass alt]nately "o 9 front & "o beh9d !
 b>4 ,aft] ?is ! ?reads are pass$ ?r\gh 
a comb-l in/rum5t1 hav+ ab\t f\rte5     
divisions to ! in* 7see fig4 #agc74 ,?is
 ext5ds f side to side ( ! loom1 & lies 
9 a groove made 9 ! b> t fixes !        
coat-/ave 7,c 9 fig4 #agj7 9 position at
 ei!r extremity4 ,x c be tak5 out &     
ex*ang$ = ano!r ) a diff]5t division+1  
if necess>y2 )\t do+ ?is1 h[ev]1 x is q 
possible to put at int]vals two ?reads  
?r\gh "o division1 or to pass ov] "o    
occasionally if ne$ be4 ,! ?reads are   
next fix$ 9 ! l[] roll]4  ,illu/ration3 
,fig4 #agc4  ,! coat-/ave c be se5      
project+ f ne> ! top ( ! loom4 ,a numb] 
( loop$ ?reads call$ coats are fix$ to  
x1 & ea* "o ( ^! encircles a ?read ( !  
w>p4 ,!y are atta*$ only to ^? ?reads t 
7 pass$ beh9d ! cross /ave & =m ! back  
leaf ( ! w>p1 & !y are = ! purpose (    
pull+ ^! =w>d :5 requir$4  ,und]nea? !  
l[] roll] is fix$ a wood5 tray1 :i* is  

useful = hold+ bobb9s1 comb1 or         
scissors4  ,on ! loom is hung a small   
mirror fac+ ! "r side ( ! "w 7see fig4  
#agj74 ,?is enables ! weav] to glance n[
 & !n ?r\gh ! w>p-/r+s at any detail t  
is 9 progress4  ,small] looms c be made1
 suitable = plac+ ^u a table2 ^!1 /&+   
ab\t two feet 9 height1 mu/ 9 "s way be 
firmly fix$ to ! table1 9 ord] to be    
prop]ly rigid = "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4
 #agd4  ,! ?read compos+ ! wo( is w\nd  
^u a wood5 bobb9 or %uttle1 su* z t %[n 
9 fig4 #agd4 ,! *ief po9t ab\t ?is is1 t
 x may n h %>p angles t might cat* 9 !  
w>p :il/ pass+ to & fro4 ,! po9t$ end is
 sometimes made use ( to poke betwe5 !  
w>p-?reads & press d[n ! weft4 ,a fre%  
bobb9 is employ$ = ea* col\r1 & ! wool  
is w\nd ^u x two or ?ree /r&s toge!r1 j 
z may happ5 to be requir$ = ! "w4 ,l>ge 
blunt-po9t$ ne$les ab\t ?ree in*es long 
7fig4 #age7 are (t5 us$ 9 place (       
bobb9s1 = ) small pieces ( "w sometimes 
s little ( a col\r is requir$ z to make 
x unnecess>y to w9d a quantity on a     

bobb91 :i* is1 aft] all1 only a ne$le ) 
an extra long ?read4  ,illu/ration3     
,fig4 #age4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agf4  
,a comb is necess>y = press+ d[n ! weft 
:il/ ! "w is 9 progress4 ,combs v>y 9   
size & %ape2 fig4 #agf %[s "o suitable =
 ?is type ( "w2 x is #a-a_/b in*es      
squ>e1 slightly w$ge-%ap$1 & ab\t       
"o-eigh? ( an in* ?ick4 ,boxwood is !   
mo/ suitable wood to make !m f1 s9ce x  
is p>ticul>ly h>d & f9e 9 ! gra94 ,!y   
are sometimes made ( metal1 ivory1 or   
bone2 = l>ge "w1 metal combs ( a heavi] 
type are us$4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agg4
  ,an embroid]y frame1 :i* has be5      
already m5tion$ z a possible sub/itute =
 ! loom1 is (t5times an article m easily
 procur$4 ,fig4 #agg illu/rates h[ a    
frame ( ?is k9d may be prep>$ )         
w>p-?reads = weav+4 ,"o ) ! screw side  
pieces is ! be/1 = ^! enable ! t5sion ( 
! w>p to be slightly adju/$ if ! work+  
%[s any t5d5cy to slack5 ! ?read4  ,to  
prep>e ! frame = weav+--,place ! p>ts   
toge!r at ! requir$ di/ance f ea* o!r2  

secure ! end ( "s w>p-?read to "s "p ( !
 frame1 & !n comm5ce to w9d x r\nd &    
r\nd ov] ! two roll]s1 plac+ ! ?reads at
 approximately ! "r di/ance ap>t1 tak+  
into acc\nt :5 do+ ?is t ! two leaves   
?us =m$ w ev5tually be br\ght into !    
same plane4 ,:5 ! requir$ wid? (        
w>p-?read is w\nd ^u ! roll]s1 secure ! 
end ( ! /r+ & proce$ to br+ ! front &   
back leaves toge!r by d>n+ a            
knitt+-ne$le or "s simil> article 9 &   
out ( ! ?reads at ! c5tre4 ,!n slide x  
up close to ! top roll] & secure x by   
ty+ x ) /r+ at ea* end 7see diagram74 ,!
 same process is gone ?r\gh ) a second  
p91 :i* is ti$ to ! l[] roll]4  ,!      
w>p-?reads c n[ be adju/$ to _! prop]   
di/ance ap>t1 z !y w probably be a      
little irregul>ly spac$4 ,! next process
 is to weave two or ?ree c\rses (       
w>p-?read close to ! knitt+-p9s at ei!r 
end2 ?is br+s ! w>p /ill ne>] to be+ 9 !
 "o plane1 & enables ! ?reads to be     
arrang$ 9 p]fect ord] by ! aid ( ! po9t 
( ! bobb9 or a ne$le1 & !y w rema9 z n[ 

plac$4  ,! frame is n[ ready = "w4 ,a   
piece ( pla9 web1 ab\t half an in* 9    
wid?1 is usually wov5 be=e ! actual     
design is begun2 ?is s]ves z a selv$ge =
 turn+ 9 :5 ! complet$ "w is m\nt$1 &   
also gets ! w>p into condition mu* bett]
 = work+ ^u4  ,a ?ick knitt+-ne$le c be 
pass$ betwe5 ! alt]nate ?reads ( ! w>p &
 plac$ t[>ds ! top ( ! frame1 z %[n 9 ! 
diagram4 ,?is takes ! place ( !         
cross-/ave 9 ! loom1 &1 by ?us divid+ ! 
w>p into two leaves1 is ( assi/ance :5 !
 %uttle goes 9 "o direction4 ,coats _c  
easily be appli$ to an embroid]y frame4 
,x is q possible ^u a frame ( ?is k9d to
 weave a long n>r[ b& ( any k9d4 ,! w>p 
mu/ be w\nd on & arrang$ 9 position at !
 necess>y l5g? by sep>at+ ! roll]s &    
tempor>ily fix+ !m ap>t at ! di/ance    
requir$ = ! b&4 ,! surplus w>p is !n    
w\nd up on ! upp] roll] until ! side    
pieces w fit into ! ends4 ,z x gets     
work$ ^u1 ! complet$ "p is w\nd ^u ! l[]
 roll]4 ,a piece bo? long & wide w\ld be
 impracticable1 especially if any w9d+  

on & (f ! roll]s 7 necess>y4            
,,mat]ials  ,!re are v few mat]ials     
requir$ = tape/ry weav+2 !y consi/ (1   
/r+ = w>p1 wools1 silks1 & maybe gold & 
silv] ?read = ! weft4  ,! w>p is usually
 compos$ ( a smoo?1 /rong1 ev5ly twi/$  
?read1 specially made = ! purpose4 ,x c 
be procur$ ( v>i\s ?icknesses4 ,x happ5s
 sometimes t 9 p>ts ! w>p %[s1 z a fr+e 
or 9 "s o!r way2 9 ?is case x c\ld be   
made ( a /rong silk ?read1 su* z purse  
silk1 ?\gh = edges ( mats1 ! ord9>y /r+ 
w>p fr+$ out is q suitable4             
,occasionally weav+ is c>ri$ out 9 su* a
 way z to expose ! w>p 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! 
"w1 ! patt]n be+ wov51 b ! gr\nd left   
altoge!r unwork$4 ,9 a case ( ?is k9d ! 
col\r & composition ( ! w>p is naturally
 important1 & mu/ be consid]$4 ,9 a     
%[-case 9 ! ,briti% ,museum !re c be se5
 a small book ) an int]e/+ wov5 b9d+    
c>ri$ out aft] ?is mann]4 ,! w>p is     
compos$ ( gold pass+1 & ! effect ( ?is )
 a patt]n c>ri$ out 9 brightly col\r$   
silks is v pretty inde$1 ! gold add+ a  

ri* gl[ to ! :ole4  ,wool & silk are !  
*ief mat]ials us$ = ! wo(4 ,x is well to
 *oose ^? ( f9e texture1 = sev]al /r&s c
 !n be w\nd toge!r ^u "o bobb91 :i*1 )  
co>se mat]ials1 w\ld be too clumsy a    
me?od4 ,:5 work+ 9 ?is way !re is m     
opportunity ( v>y+ col\r & texture1 =   
?ree %ades may be w\nd ^u ! bobb9 toge!r
 to get a requir$ col\r1 & ?is has (t5 a
 pretti] effect ?an ! use ( an unbl5d$  
col\r2 also1 silk & wool are v          
satisfactory w\nd & work$ 9 toge!r1 ea* 
texture %[+ ! o!r to advantage4  ,f9e   
gold or silv] ?reads are frequ5tly us$ 9
 tape/ry weav+4 ,!y c be wov5 9 alone1  
:i* gives a metallic look1 or !y may be 
mix$ ) /r&s ( silk4 ,bo? ways are v     
good1 & ! use ( ! metal ?read adds great
 ri*ness to ! "w4 ,^! ?reads make f9e   
backgr\nds1 & !y c be us$ 9 _m ways ^u !
 design2 x is a common practice to c>ry 
out ! light+ ( drap]ies & ( o!r p>ts 9  
real gold1 j z !y are treat$ 9 illum9at$
 manuscripts4     ,,*apt] ,,xvii        
,,prep>ations ,,= ,,"w    ,w>p+ !       

,loom--,dress+ ! ,coat-,/ave--,trac+ !  
,patt]n ^u   ! ,?reads4   ,^u comm5c+ ! 
w>p+ ( ! loom ! fir/ matt] to be decid$ 
is ! l5g? ( ! ?reads4 ,"s extra l5g? mu/
 be measur$ (f besides t actually us$ = 
weav+1 to all[ = :at is tak5 up 9 fix+ !
 ?reads & w9d+ !m r\nd ! roll]s1 & z x  
is n conv5i5t to "w m ?an ab\t half-way 
up ! loom1 ?is also has to be all[$ = 9 
! l5g?4 ,! ?reads mu/ all be cut to "o  
size1 & s9ce !y h to be d\bl$ 9 halves  
:5 plac$ on ! loom1 ?is %\ld be twice ! 
requir$ l5g?4  ,ano!r "q = e>ly decision
 is ! numb] ( w>p-?reads t may be all[$ 
p] in*4 ,?is v>ies ) ! co>s5ess ( ! /r+s
 & ! ?ickness ( ! weft t w h to pass to 
& fro betwe5 !m2 :at gov]ns bo? ( ^!    
po9ts is ! design1 :e!r !re is mu*      
detail or n1 = if ! draw+ is complicat$ 
! w>p-/r+s mu/ be f9e 9 ord] to be able 
to c>ry x out2 ?is po9t w be bett]      
und]/ood aft] "s exp]i5ce ( work+4      
,f\rte5 to sixte5 ?reads to ! in* is a v
 usual numb]4  ,! fix+ ( ! ?reads 9 !   
upp] roll] is a v simple matt]4 ,x is   

done by d\bl+ ea* 9 halves & plac+ !    
loop ?us =m$ ov] ! metal p91 :i* = ?is  
purpose may be tempor>ily susp5d$ by /r+
 to ! frame ( ! top ( ! loom j above !  
roll]4 ,x c be dropp$ into its place 9 !
 groove :5 all ! ?reads are loop$ ^u x1 
& made secure !re = ! mom5t by ty+ "s   
/r+ r\nd ! extremities ( ! roll]4  ,ea* 
?read is n[ tak5 sep>ately ?r\gh !      
comb-l in/rum5t4 ,! cross-/ave is laid  
^u ?is1 s x is well to put x 9 place n[1
 & c>ry ! ?reads alt]nately 9 front &   
beh9d x1 :il/ pass+ !m ?r\gh ! comb4 ,! 
?read+ ( ! /r+s ?r\gh ! comb decides !  
numb] !re w be to ! in*1 s !y mu/ be put
 ?r\gh at ! requir$ di/ance ap>t4  ,!   
upp] roll] is next giv5 a complete turn1
 :i* w make ! metal p9 & ! ?reads t are 
r\nd x secure 9 ! groove4 ,! w9d+ up mu/
 be cont9u$ until only ab\t ?ree in*es (
 ! w>p-/r+ hang bel[ ! l[] roll]4 ,"s   
k9d ( t5sion mu/ be appli$ to ! ?reads  
:il/ ?is w9d+ is go+ on1 or x w be done 
irregul>ly2 a h&1 or sev]al h&s1 hold+  
x1 answ]s ! purpose well en\gh4  ,! next

 process is to fix ! ?reads securely 9 !
 l[] roll]4 ,! difficulty "h lies 9     
gett+ ! plac+ & t5sion ( ! ?reads betwe5
 ! two roll]s exactly regul> & ev54 ,if 
"s 7 slack & o!rs tight x w\ld be v     
awkw>d to correct aft]w>ds1 & impossible
 to weave ^u prop]ly if incorrect4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agh4  ,fig4 #agh   
%[s a practical me?od by :i* ! w>p may  
be fix$ 9 ! l[] roll]1 b any contrivance
 w d t ga9s ! requir$ result4 ,to c>ry  
out ! fix+ z 9 ! diagram1 ! roll] mu/ be
 turn$ s t ! groove comes j at ! c5tre 9
 ! front4 ,f\r l9es ( w>p-?read are !n  
fix$ f end to end ( ! roll]1 two above &
 two bel[ ! groove4 ,ea* w>p-/r+ 9 turn 
is n[ ?read$ 9 & out ( ^! cross l9es1 z 
%[n 9 ! diagram4 ,?is places !m 9 regul>
 ord]1 at ! correct di/ance ap>t1 &     
keeps !m at v ne>ly ! same t5sion       
?r\gh\t4 ,! metal p9 is n[ plac$ 9 !    
groove & pu%es ! ?reads be=e x4 ,x mu/  
be tempor>ily made firm !re by /r+ ti$  
r\nd ! roll] at int]vals4  ,! next      
process is to tie ! w>p-?reads 9 knots1 

ei!r two or f\r toge!r1 j :]e !y em]ge  
bel[ ! p94 ,?is prev5ts any giv+ way1 & 
if ! ?reads are pull$ j equally tight   
imm$iately be=e ! knott+1 ! t5sion ( !  
entire w>p w be ! same4 ,! l[] roll] is 
next turn$ r\nd until ! metal p9 is made
 q firm 9 its place by ! w>p-?reads     
pass+ across ! face ( ! groove4 ,! w>p w
 n[ be fix$ 9 ! loom z %[n 9 ! draw+ 9  
fig4 #agj4  ,! plac+ ( ! coats ^u !     
coat-/ave is ! next "p ( ! prep>atory   
"w4 ,comm5ce by fix+ a l9e ( w>p-?read  
along ! ext]ior side ( ! coat-/ave1 mak+
 x secure to ! b> at bo? ends4 ,! coats1
 encircl+ ! /ave & a ?read ( w>p1 are   
fix$ to ?is /r+ by a k9d ( buttonhole   
/it* 7see fig4 #agi74 ,x is important t 
ea* loop %\ld be ( exactly ! same size2 
?is c be ensur$ by tempor>ily fix+ a rod
 across ! loom at ! po9t :]e ! loops w  
encircle ! w>p-?read1 & !n tak+ ! loop  
r\nd ?is b> z well z r\nd ! ?read4      
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agi4  ,to comm5ce  
mak+ ! coats1 take a long ne$leful (    
w>p-?read & secure ! end ( x to ! /r+ at

 ! "r-h& end1 & !n make ab\t ?ree small 
loop$ /it*es ^u x 7see ne$le 9 progress 
9 ! diagram72 next1 in/ead ( mak+ ano!r 
( ! same /it*es1 take ! ?read d[n bel[ !
 /ave1 let x encircle ! fir/ ?read ( !  
back leaf & !n be br\ght up ov] !       
coat-/ave & /r+ & be loop$ "u ! ?read to
 complete ! /it* 7see ,b74 ,usually a   
long & a %ort /it* are tak5 alt]nately1 
b ! numb] ( %ort ones may be v>i$4 ,?is 
process is cont9u$ until all ! ?reads ( 
! back leaf are encircl$ ea* by a loop4 
,a new l5g? ( ?read mu/ be knott$ on to 
! la/ "o z x gets us$ up4 ,! weav]s'    
knot1 :i* is %[n on p4 #bia1 might be   
us$ = ! purpose4 ,x w\ld be made use (  
also if by *ance ! w>p-?read 7 brok51 = 
x is a knot specially good = ! purpose4 
,:5 ! coats are complet$ !re are /ill "o
 or two prep>ations to be made be=e     
actually comm5c+ to weave4 ,ei!r a metal
 rod or a long n>r[ piece ( wood mu/ n[ 
be ?read$ 9 & out ( ! w>p-/r+s & plac$ 9
 position at ! base4 ,?is rod c be se5  
prop]ly plac$ 9 position 9 fig4 #agi 9  

front ( ! l[] cyl9d]4 ,?is is put !re to
 keep ! l9es ( ! wo( horizontal :5 !y   
are be+ beat5 d[n by ! comb4  ,next w9d 
on a bobb9 "s w>p-?read simil> to t     
already on ! loom1 or1 if t happ5s to be
 v co>se1 let ?is be a little f9]4 ,n[  
weave two c\rses ) ?is w>p-?read & beat 
x d[n ) ! comb1 leav+ ! wo( dur+ !      
process r loose4 ,! te*nique ( weav+ )  
all its difficulties is discuss$ 9      
,*apt] ,,xviii4 ,:5 two ( ! w>p-?read   
c\rses are complete1 ins]t ei!r ! po9t$ 
end ( ! bobb9 or a blunt ne$le betwe5 ! 
w>p-?reads bel[ ! wov5 portion1 & if    
necess>y move ! w>p-/r+s a little to or 
fro until !y are equally sep>at$ ea* f !
 o!r all along ! l9e4 ,next weave ab\t  
f\r m c\rses ( ! wo(2 ^! w s]ve to keep 
! arrang$ w>p-?reads /ill m firmly 9    
place4 ,!n ) a r$ p5cil rule a          
horizontal l9e /raight across ! w>p-/r+s
 ab\t "o-?ird ( an in* above ! wov5     
portion4 ,w9d on ano!r bobb9 "s wool &  
weave x to & fro until ! space betwe5 ! 
wov5 portion & ! r$ l9e is fill$ 94     

,betwe5 ea* c\rse ! comb mu/ beat !     
wo(-?reads firmly d[n4 ,x is (t5        
necess>y to weave ov] "s portions ( !   
surface m ?an ov] o!rs z ! ?reads pack  
d[n tight] 9 "s p>ts4 ,! loom %\ld be n[
 9 p]fect ord] = comm5c+ "w4 ,!         
prep>atory weav+ t has be5 done is (t5  
useful aft]w>ds z a selv$ge4  ,x is     
necess>y to h a col\r$ draw+ ( ! design 
= frequ5t ref]5ce :il/ ! "w is 9        
progress2 also a trac+ ( ! outl9e mu/ be
 m>k$ ^u ! w>p-?reads = ! work]'s fur!r 
guidance4 ,! trac+ ^u ! ?reads mu/ be a 
reflection ( ! patt]n ow+ to ! fact t ! 
"w is done f ! back4 ,x does n affect ! 
matt] if ! design is a symmetrical "o1 b
 to f9d ! lions ( ,engl& fac+ ! wrong   
way 9 "s complet$ piece ( h]aldic "w    
w\ld be mo/ annoy+4 ,9 ord] to get a    
trac+ ( ! design ^u ! ?reads1 a %eet (  
pap]1 ) a di/9ct outl9e ( ! patt]n ^u x1
 mu/ be atta*$1 possibly by p9n+1 to !  
fur!r side ( ! w>p-?reads1 exactly :]e !
 weav+ is to take place4 ,! outl9e w be 
cle>ly p]ceivable ?r\gh ! ?reads1 & !   

next process is to take p5 & ,indian ink
 & make a dot ^u ea* w>p-?read 9 sequ5ce
 r\nd ! outl9e ( ! patt]n4 ,:5 ?is is   
complet$1 ! trac+-pap] c be remov$1 & ! 
dots ^u ! w>p mu/ be tak5 all r\nd ea*  
?read in/ead ( m>k+ "o side only4 ,!    
m>k+ r\nd is done by hold+ a w>p-?read  
betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb1 plac+ ! side ( !   
nib aga9/ "o ( ! dots1 & !n twi/+ !     
?read to & fro aga9/ x4 ,all ! m>ks ^u !
 fir/ ?read are treat$ 9 succession 9   
?is way1 !n ! next ?read is tak5 up &   
treat$ 9 simil> fa%ion1 & s on until all
 are done4 ,fig4 #ahj %[s a leaf m>k$ ^u
 ! w>p-?reads 9 read9ess = work+4 ,?is  
m>k+ %\ld be cle>1 %>p1 & decid$1 all ! 
l9es be+ tak5 horizontally r\nd1 z 9    
fig4 #ahj2 if ! patt]n seems to run up a
 ?read1 a m>k j half-way up is suffici5t
 guide4 ,9 a piece ( "w ( any size !    
trac+ mu/ be done1 a "p at a "t1 = !    
?reads mov+ slightly :5 ! w>p is unw\nd 
& ! web w\nd up may displace ! m>ks &   
make ! guid+ l9es incorrect4            
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahj4     ,,*apt]   

,,xviii  ,,! ,,te*nique ,,( ,,weav+     
,weav+--,comm5c+ & ,fa/5+ ,(f--,!       
,int]lock+ ,/it*--,f9e                  
,draw+--,%ad+--,add$ ,aft]-/it*es4   ,! 
way 9 :i* ! wo( ?read+ 9 & out ( ! w>p  
makes ! web is %[n at ,c1 fig4 #agi4 ,"h
 ! wo( has be5 tak5 once to & fro2 a    
movem5t call$ a weft or a c\rse1 "o way 
only1 goes by ! "n ( a half pass or a   
%oot4 ,by ! use ( ! cross /ave = "o     
direction1 & ( ! coats = ! o!r1 !       
t$i\sness ( ! process ( d>n+ 9 & out & s
 pick+ up ! "r ?reads is avoid$4 ,x is n
 always practical to make use ( ^!      
appliances2 = in/ance1 9 work+ ov] only 
two or ?ree ?reads x may n be wor? :ile1
 b :5 !y c be made use ( ! "w is done   
twice z rapidly by _! help4  ,! bobb9   
ent]s ! loom r high up1 = !re ! division
 ( ?reads is greate/4 ,"o h& />ts !     
bobb9 ^u its j\rney1 ! o!r h&1 ent]+    
betwe5 ! divid$ w>p-?reads1 takes x on &
 out z requir$4 ,sometimes ! bobb9 has  
to g ! entire way betwe5 ! leaves1 & at 
o!rs x may be only ov] two or ?ree      

?reads1 ?is dep5d+ ^u ! patt]n4 ,to     
enable ! bobb9 to make ! return passage1
 ! w>p mu/ be r$ivid$1 ! ?reads t are at
 ! back mu/ be br\ght to ! front2 ?is is
 manag$ by ! help ( ! coats--a bun* ( !m
 is tak5 9 ! h& 9 ord] to pull =w>d !   
?reads to :i* !y are atta*$4 ,?is c be  
done by sections all along ! l9e1 or j 9
 "o "p ( x if x be s requir$4  ,! weft  
is almo/ always tak5 9 horizontal l9es  
to & fro4 ,! exceptions to ?is rule     
occur :5 x is v evid5t t to run up & d[n
 a n>r[ slant+ l9e f end to end is f>   
simpl] ?an to "w up 9 a horizontal      
zigzag fa%ion along x4  ,ab\t an in* (  
?read is left at ! end & at ! comm5cem5t
 ( ea* l5g? ( weft2 ^! are secur$ by !  
tight pack+ d[n ( ! ?reads above !m1 s  
!re is z a rule no ne$ = any knot or    
fa/5+ (f1 :i* w\ld be necess>y only 9 ! 
case ( comm5c+ or end+ (f r\nd a s+le   
?read1 b x is important = ! future      
durability ( ! "w to see t ! ends are   
secur$4 ,sometimes a comm5cem5t or a    
f9i% is made j :]e a natural division ( 

! fabric occurs2 9 ?is case1 ! end (    
?read w\ld n be secure1 = x might "w    
loose or appe> ^u ! "r side4 ,?is c     
usually be avoid$ by comm5c+ a little   
fur!r along ! l9e4 ,! few times t fa/5+ 
(f or on is necess>y1 ! ?read c be run  
into ! "p already wov5 ) a small] ne$le1
 or else be knott$ on to a loose end (  
wool4  ,! bobb9s n actually 9 use hang  
d[n fix$ z 9 lace "w by a half-hit*4    
,fig4 #aha %[s ?is 9 process ( mak+2 !  
loop is pass$ f ! f+] on to ! bobb92 x w
 unw9d z want$ & yet hold firm :il/     
hang+ d[n4 ,! ?read is always c>ri$1 if 
practicable1 f "o place to :]e x is next
 requir$1 9 ord] to avoid unnecess>y    
break+ (f4 ,tape/ry is sometimes wov5 ) 
bo? sides alike1 :i* means only t all ! 
ends mu/ be cut close (f4 ,x is said t  
"w s treat$ is q durable4  ,illu/ration3
 ,fig4 #aha4  ,special c>e mu/ be tak5 t
 ! weft is turn$ neatly r\nd at ! m>g9s1
 because if x is at all loose !re ! "w  
has a ragg$1 untidy appe>ance4 ,?is     
applies also to any turn+s t may occur 9

 o!r p>ts due to ! c>ry+ out ( ! patt]n2
 if 9 ^! places ! ?read is too loose ^u 
! w>p1 ! fabric w be unev5 & pu%$ out ( 
place2 if on ! o!r h& ! ?read !re is too
 tight1 ! slits w gape1 & if ^! are     
aft]w>ds clos$ by /it*+1 ! entire       
mat]ial w be drawn 94 ,a new ?read is   
nev] comm5c$ actually at ! m>g91 = x    
w\ld !n be se5 ^u ! "r side2 x is q easy
 to avoid ?is happ5+ by comm5c+ an in*  
fur!r 94 ,?is may entail beg9n+ 9 a     
direction :i* is app>5tly wrong = pick+ 
up ! prop] ?reads1 t is1 ^? n pick$ up 9
 ! r[ bel[2 b ?is mu/ happ5 at times1 & 
! "w packs d[n & q prev5ts ! w>p %[+1 z 
x might be incl9$ to d 9 su* a case4 ,x 
is sometimes at ! m>g9 a good plan to   
pick up two w>p-?reads toge!r1 = ?is    
emphasises ! edge r pleasantly2 ?is     
might be advisable 9 c>ry+ out a long   
ribbon-l bord] ( any k9d4  ,aft] ea*    
%oot1 ! po9t ( ! bobb91 ! comb1 or maybe
 ! f+]s1 %\ld press d[n ! wo( to make x 
lie close ^u ! r[ be=e1 & s entirely    
cov] up ! w>p4 ,fig4 #ahb %[s ! comb 9  

action1 & also ! bobb9s hang+4 ,! weft  
mu/ be left a little slack along ! l9e =
 ?is purpose1 & "s exp]i5ce is requir$ 9
 ord] to leave j ! "r slackness4 ,! turn
 at ! edge is arrang$ fir/1 & !n ! ?read
 eas$ ev5ly along its l5g? 9 read9ess = 
be+ press$ d[n2 x mu/ h ! appe>ance n ( 
runn+ /raight across ! w>p-/r+s1 b ( ly+
 loosely r\nd !m4 ,= pack+ d[n a long   
l9e1 mu* m play ( weft is requir$ ?an = 
a %ort "o4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahb4   
,! usual fault ) beg9n]s is to draw !   
web too tight "h & !re4 ,?is is a fault 
to be specially avoid$1 = x causes !    
fabric to be drawn 91 & to v>y 9 wid?1  
spoil+ its appe>ance & mak+ ! ?reads    
difficult to "w ^u2 also ! pack+ d[n ( !
 weft c\ld n be prop]ly done1 :i* w\ld  
cause ! w>p-?reads to be expos$ 9 p>ts4 
,! ?or\ghness ( ?is pack+ d[n ( ! weft  
is = sev]al reasons v important4 ,!     
durability ( ! "w is mu* affect$ by x1  
bo? = ! secur+ ( ! ends ( wool already  
m5tion$1 & = ! mak+ ( a /rong1 well-knit
 piece ( fabric4 ,ano!r reason is1 t !  

draw+ ( ! v>i\s =ms 9 ! design may be   
made incorrect1 9 ?is way3 suppose an   
apple 7 wov5 91 app>5tly correctly1 b ! 
wefts 7 n press$ d[n ?or\ghly1 ! weav+ &
 pack+ d[n ( ! wefts above x w\ld be    
sure to press ! "p und]nea? clos]       
toge!r1 & ! effect ( ?is w\ld be to make
 ! r\nd apple assume a flatt5$ oval     
%ape1 & cause simil> *anges ?r\gh\t !   
"w4  ,x has already be5 m5tion$ t :]ev] 
a *ange ( col\r occurs v]tically1 t is1 
9 ! direction ( ! w>p-?reads1 !re       
results ( necessity a division or slit 9
 ! web2 ! slit1 :i* may be ( any l5g?1  
if noticeable1 mu/ be clos$4 ,?is c be  
done :il/ ! weav+ is 9 progress by a    
me?od ( int]lock+ ! two wefts z !y meet1
 or else by /it*+ up at ! back :5 ! "w  
is f9i%$4 ,! latt] way is call$ f9e     
draw+1 & mu/ be v c>efully done1        
especially ) l>ge tape/ries4  ,bo?      
me?ods are us$2 ! fir/ takes long]1 b is
 ! mo/ durable4 ,old & worn tape/ries w 
usually be se5 to h giv5 way :]e ?is    
/it*+ up at ! back has tak5 place4 ,9   

small pieces ( "w1 h[ev]1 !re is n mu*  
likelihood ( /ra91 s ! ov]sew+ at ! back
 answ]s fairly well4 ,! two ways c be   
us$ 9 conjunction4 ,suppos+ a bord]1 ow+
 to its be+ ( a diff]5t col\r1 _h to be 
jo9$ ! entire l5g? ( ! "w1 ! int]lock+  
/it*es might be made at int]vals ( ab\t 
half an in*1 & :5 ! "w 0 f9i%$ ! ov]sew+
 at ! back might be tak5 ! entire l5g?4 
,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahc4  ,fig4 #ahc is
 a diagram illu/rat+ ! way 9 :i* ! wefts
 may be int]lock$ :il/ ! weav+ goes on4 
,exam9ation ( ! draw+ w probably be     
suffici5t explanation2 h[ev]1 int]lock+ 
is effect$ ?us3 ,comm5c+ at ! base1 run 
a weft ( ! d>k] wool to & fro1 leav+ x  
slack at ! turn+ po9t4 ,a half pass ( ! 
light]-col\r$ wo( is !n run ?r\gh1 x is 
?read$ 9 an upw>d direction ?r\gh !     
slack loop ( ! d>k] wool1 waits !re :il/
 ano!r weft ( ! d>k] col\r is work$1 &  
!n is ?read$ d[n ?r\gh ! second loop t  
has be5 =m$1 & returns to ! />t+-po9t4  
,x !n comes back aga9 & is ?read$ upw>ds
 ?r\gh ?is same loop1 & waits1 z be=e1 =

 ano!r to be =m$1 & returns back ?r\gh  
x--& s on4 ,if ?is is done prop]ly1 no  
*ange is visible on ! "r side4 ,! jo9$  
weft w la/ z long z any o!r "p ( !      
weav+4  ,! process ( /it*+ up at ! back 
is simply an ov]sew+ ) silk or o!r /rong
 ?read4 ,! /it*es mu/ be r close1 draw+ 
! edges j suffici5tly toge!r1 & !y mu/ n
 %[ ?r\gh to ! "r side4 ,! /it*+ toge!r 
%\ld be done :ile ! "w is on ! loom1    
s9ce ! web w\ld !n be 9 less dang] (    
pull+ out ( %ape4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4  
#ahd4  ,%ad+ 9 tape/ry weav+ is c>ri$   
out by a hat*+ process :i* is mo/ simply
 expla9$ by a diagram 7fig4 #ahd74 ,!   
difficulty is n 9 ! work+1 b 9 gett+ !  
=m ( ! %ad[ or light correctly express$4
 ,!re is no ne$ = f9e gradation ( col\r 
& tone1 = ! %ad+ looks be/ :5 c>ri$ out 
simply & boldly1 b ! draw+ ( x %\ld be  
decid$ & good4 ,! above figure gives b  
"o int]m$i>y tone 9 %ad+ f "o col\r to  
ano!r1 :i* is ! anci5t me?od ( work+2 at
 ! pres5t day ! weav]s 9 ! ,manufacture 
des ,gobel9s employ sev]al o!r int]m$i>y

 tones1 ?us all[+ ( f9] gradation2      
possibly h[ev] ^! f9e gradations are n (
 su* great importance1 & s ne$ n h an   
unnecess>y am\nt ( att5tion & "t devot$ 
to _! accompli%m5t4  ,! /ud5t w d well  
to exam9e f9e examples & make c>eful    
draw+s f !m1 s9ce ?is w tea* ! "r way ( 
go+ to "w bett] ?an any?+ else c4 ,fig4 
#ahe is simply a %ad$ leaf tak5 at r&om 
f a piece ( weav+2 ! same leaf 0 %[n 9  
outl9e 9 fig4 #ahj1 s ! two %[ !        
comm5cem5t & completion ( ! same piece4 
,x w be notic$ ^u /udy+ tape/ry t       
usually all ! light p>ts ( a "w are     
hat*$ ) ! same col\r1 (t5 a buff %ade1  
^? ( ri* tape/ries ) gold ?read4 ,?is   
sam5ess ( col\r ?r\gh\t gives unity to !
 "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahe4         
,sometimes aft] ! weav+ is complet$ a   
few f9i%+ t\*es c be satisfactorily put 
9 by means ( s+le /it*es tak5 ?r\gh !   
fabric ) a %>p-po9t$ embroid]y ne$le4 ,!
 dots repres5t+ ! se$s ^u a /rawb]ry    
c\ld be /it*$ 9 aft]w>ds 9 ?is way1 = to
 ins]t !m :ile ! "w is go+ on w\ld be v 

t$i\s4 ,?is k9d ( ?+ mu/ n be ov]done1  
h[ev]1 = ! /it*es are apt1 unless v     
deftly treat$1 to h a laid-on look1 &   
c>e mu/ be tak5 n to m> ! ev5ly ribb$   
effect1 :i* is "o ( ! *>act]i/ics (     
tape/ry4  ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahf4     
,?is weav+ is a mo/ fasc9at+ k9d ( "w1 z
 w be f\nd ^u a trial4 ,! simple/       
patt]ns look v int]e/+ :5 wov51 &1 on ! 
o!r h&1 ! "w c be c>ri$ to any degree ( 
complexity t ! work] desires4 ,= a fir/ 
trial a piece might be done ) no attempt
 at %ad+2 ev5 "o su* z t illu/rat$ at   
fig4 #ahf w\ld be suitable4 ,?is example
 happ5s to be a =m p>ticul>ly easy =    
c>ry+ out 9 weav+4 ,! work] %\ld beg9 at
 ! l[] "r-h& corn] & "w ! successive    
flights ( /eps diagonally1 z %[n by !   
unf9i%$ portion ( ! diagram4  ,9 ! way (
 actual te*nique !re is 9 ! art (       
tape/ry weav+ n ne>ly z mu* to be le>nt 
z !re is 9 embroid]y1 = !re are no      
v>ieties ( me?ods & ( /it* to be        
acquir$2 /ill = a p]son to become a     
skill$ weav]1 capable ( c>ry+ out l>ge  

wall hang+s1 is a ?+ v difficult (      
atta9m5t--inde$ x is said t x takes z   
long z fifte5 ye>s ( con/ant application
 to acquire ! necess>y k & skill4 ,to   
c>ry out designs ( less magnitude &     
intricacy is a v diff]5t matt]2 success 
9 ?is small] way is f> m easily atta9$1 
& is well )9 ! rea* ( unpr(essional p4  
,,notes ,,on ,,! ,,collotype ,,plates   
,,plate ,i4--,a ,detail f a ,x,i,vth    
,c5tury ,engli% ,cope4--,! figure (     
,*ri/ :i* is %[n 9 ?is plate is tak5 f a
 c5tral gr\p1 repres5t+ ! coronation ( !
 ,virg91 9 a fam\s cope 9 ! possession (
 ,colonel ,j4 ,e4 ,butl]-,b[don4 ,!     
gr\nd is ( ri* r$ silk velvet2 ! face1  
h&s1 & l9+s ( ! drap]ies are work$ 9    
silk 9 split /it*2 ! drap]y1 cr[n1 &    
surr\nd+ ar*itectural decoration are 9  
gold ?read c\*$ by ! e>ly me?od4 ,!     
twi/$ column ) oak leaves & ! five lob$ 
ar* are bo? *>act]i/ic ( ,engli% "w (   
?is p]iod4 ,note ! use ( pe>ls 9 !      
lion's head & 9 ! acorns1 also ! *>m+ly 
drawn bird4 ,an int]e/+ te*nical po9t   

display$ 9 ?is example is t ! "w is done
 directly on to ! velvet gr\nd1 in/ead (
 be+ fir/ work$ ^u l95 & aft]w>ds z a   
complet$ piece ( embroid]y appli$ to !  
velvet4 ,! me?od 9 use "h1 if at all    
possible1 is always ! mo/ satisfactory4 
,size ( detail1 ab\t elev5 in*es by six4
   ,,plate ,,ii4--,two ,heads f a       
,x,i,vth ,c5tury ,engli% ,cope pres]v$  
at ,/eeple ,a/on1 ,ox=d%ire4--,! cope is
 n n[ 9 its orig9al /ate1 = x has be5   
divid$ into two p>ts & us$ = !          
decoration ( ! alt>4 ,! backgr\nd is    
compos$ ( a ?9 greyi% :ite silk back$ ) 
a /rong] mat]ial4 ,! :ite may h be5     
orig9ally "s o!r col\r2 x is1 h[ev]1 9  
its pres5t /ate1 v beautiful & h>moni\s4
 ,! draw+ ( ! features 9 ?is cope is    
rem>kably ref9$ & true to nature 7!     
reproduction does n d full ju/ice to !  
orig9al74 ,! anci5t me?od1 ( work+ !    
faces 9 split /it* comm5c+ ) ! middle ( 
! *eek & cont9u+ spirally r\nd1 !n      
aft]w>ds press+ ! c5tre d[n by "s       
me*anical means1 is pla9ly to be obs]v$ 

"h4 ,! effective draw+ ( ! tresses (    
hair 9 alt]nate l9es ( two col\rs is    
well se5 9 ! left-h& example4 ,! gold   
?read :i* is freely made use ( all ov] !
 cope1 ^u ! drap]ies1 nimbi1 & surr\nd+ 
foliage1 is m>vell\sly bright & sp>kl+1 
al?\gh ne>ly six hundr$ ye>s old4 ,!    
manufacture ( unt>ni%able gold =        
embroid]y purposes seems beyond pres5t  
day ent]prise4  ,wid? ( nimbus1 two & a 
half in*es4   ,,plate ,,iii4--,a small  
portion ( a ,quilt$ ,cov]let1 probably (
 ,sicilian "w4 ,date ab\t #adjj4--;,9   
?is int]e/+ example ( quilt+1 :i* is    
exhibit$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1
 ! gr\nd is compos$ ( a buff-col\r$ l954
 ,! rais$ effect is obta9$ by an        
int]padd+ ( wool4 ,! backgr\nd is run   
ov] irregul>ly ) :ite ?read1 9 ord] to  
keep x m or less flat1 & ! design1 :i*  
is 9 fairly high relief1 is outl9$ )    
br[n ?read4 ,! entire cov]let is        
embroid]$ ) sc5es f ! life ( ,tri/an4   
,tri/an frequ5tly engag$ 9 battle aga9/ 
,k+ ,languis1 ! oppressor ( 8 c\ntry4   

,?is detail repres5ts ,h[ ,k+ ,languis  
7( ,irel&7 s5t to ,cornwall = ! tribute4
  ,size ( detail1 two feet by ?ree4     
,,plate ,,iv4--,a portion ( an ,alt>    
,clo? ,b&1 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silk      
?reads ^u a :ite l95 gr\nd4--,?is is a  
piece ( ,g]man ,x,vth c5tury "w exhibit$
 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,x is  
embroid]$ almo/ entirely 9 "o /it*1 :i* 
might be describ$ z a v>iety (          
h]r+-bone4 ,! design is made up ( two   
motives :i* repeat alt]nately along !   
b&--a squ>e %ap$ tree & a circle1 !     
latt] decorat$ ) floral sprays &1 9 !   
c5tre ( x1 a gr\p ( emblems4 ,d[n !     
middle ( ! design runs a s]ies ( names 9
 f9e ,go?ic lett]+--,ursula & ,augu/9us 
be+ ! two t occur 9 ?is plate4  ,wid? ( 
embroid]$ b&1 f\r & a half in*es4       
,,plate ,v4--,a portion ( a late ,x,vth 
c5tury ,orphrey1 embroid]$ ) ! arms (   
,h5ry ,/af=d1 ,duke ( ,buck+ham4--,!    
gr\nd is ( r$ velvet1 & is embroid]$ )  
gold ?read & col\r$ silks4 ,! two %ields
 "h repres5t$ be> ! arms ( ! families ( 

de ,bohun & ,fitzwalt]4 ,ea* %ield has =
 support]s two swans1 & is surr\nd$ by  
floral sprays4 ,! ,/af=d knot unites !  
sprays betwe5 ! %ields4 ,! *asuble ^u   
:i* ?is orphrey is plac$ is made ( a    
lovely brocad$ silk decorat$ ) falcons1 
peah5s1 & roses4  ,wid? ( embroid]$     
orphrey1 ab\t eight in*es4   ,,plate    
,,vi4--,a detail ( ,foliage tak5 f a    
late ,x,v,ith c5tury ,embroid]$ ,picture
 repres5t+ ! /ory ( ,daphne4--,! picture
 is work$ 9 col\r$ wools & silks 9 cross
 /it* ^u canvas1 & is an admirable      
example ( ?is k9d ( "w1 & ?is p>ticul>  
detail is a good illu/ration ( a v      
satisfactory treatm5t ( foliage4 ,! :ole
 panel measures ab\t sev5 feet by two1 &
 is exhibit$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t     
,museum4  ,height ( detail1 t5 & a half 
in*es4   ,,plate ,,vii4--,an ,embroid]$ 
,x,v,i,ith or ,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury       
,wool-"w ,curta94--,?is curta91 !       
prop]ty ( ,miss ,killick1 is a pretty   
example ( a small crewel-"w hang+4 ,!   
design is ( a type t 0 (t5 us$ ^u hang+s

 ( t p]iod4 ,x is embroid]$ ) brightly  
col\r$ wools ^u a :ite l95 gr\nd1 & is 9
 a good /ate ( pres]vation4 ,mu* +5uity 
z well z v>iety ( /it*+ are %[n 9 !     
execution ( ! "w4  ,size ( curta91 ab\t 
five feet by ?ree4   ,,plate ,,viii4--,a
 portion ( a l>ge ,x,v,i,ith c5tury ,l95
 ,hang+ embroid]$ ) col\r$ wools4--,9   
bo? design & execution ?is curta9 is    
rem>kably f9e4 ,! entire hang+ is ab\t  
eighte5 feet 9 wid? by sev5 9 height4 ,x
 is embroid]$ ) a conv5tional           
repres5tation ( a =e/2 9 ! bran*es ( !  
trees lodge all k9ds ( birds & bea/s4 ,!
 type ( design %[n 9 ?is plate & 9 ! la/
 is d]iv$ f ,ea/]n "w2 its introduction 
into ,engl& 0 due to ! increase ( trade 
) ori5tal nations1 :i* develop$ ab\t ?is
 "t4  ,size ( detail1 ab\t six feet by  
f\r4   ,,plate ,,ix4--,cutwork ,lett]+  
tak5 f a ,x,v,i,ith c5tury ,engli%      
,sampl]4--,! lett]s & surr\nd+          
decoration %[n 9 ?is example ( cut or   
op5 "w are built up on a squ>e network (
 w>p & weft ?reads t 7 left at regul>   

int]vals ?r\gh\t ! space1 :5 !          
unnecess>y ?reads 7 )drawn1 & !n cov]$ )
 a k9d ( d>n+ /it*4 ,! lett]s are work$ 
9 buttonhole /it*1 ea* fre% l9e be+ tak5
 into ! head+ ( ! la/ "o4 ,! o!r p>ts ( 
! "w are c>ri$ out 9 ei!r buttonhole or 
ov]ca/ /it*4 ,! complete sampl] is a    
long n>r[ /rip ( l951 across :i* run    
specim5 b&s ( v>i\s k9ds ( "w4 ,x is    
exhibit$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4
  ,wid? ( cutwork detail1 six in*es4    
,,plate ,x4--,an ,embroid]$ ,sampl]4--,!
 "w is c>ri$ out 9 col\r$ silks 9 m9ute 
cross-/it* & occasional r[s ( sat9 /it*1
 ^u a gr\nd ( f9e s+le-?read canvas4 ,x 
is dat$ #agih1 & 0 work$ by ,alice      
,knight1 ! au?or's great-gr&mo!r4 ,!    
birds1 trees1 & fl[]s1 ! *>m+ little    
bord] patt]ns1 & ! comical cats /&+ on  
ei!r hillocks or h\setops1 are all      
*>act]i/ic ( sampl] "w4 ,work+ ! sampl] 
0 once ! regul> introduction to m5d+1   
m>k+1 & embroid]y1 & "o 0 done by almo/ 
e ,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury *ild z a "p (     
education1 inde$ ! practice ( work+     

sampl]s 0 cont9u$ "s decades into !     
,x,i,xth c5tury4  ,actual size (        
orig9al1 eighte5 in*es by twelve4       
,,plate ,,xi4--,an ,example ( ,p]sian   
,embroid]y4--,=m]ly 9 ! collection ( ,"l
 ,leighton1 & n[ 9 t ( ! ,london ,c\nty 
,c\ncil's ,c5tral ,s*ool ( ,arts &      
,crafts4 ,! embroid]y is c>ri$ out almo/
 entirely 9 *a9 /it* ) brilliantly      
col\r$ silks1 ^u a f9e semi-transp>5t   
gr\nd4 ,! fl[]s t appe> d>k 9 !         
reproduction are work$ 9 a bright rosy  
r$1 o!rs are yell[ & orange1 & ! leaves 
are 9 pale grey gre5 outl9$ ) a d>k     
myrtle %ade ( ! same4  ,size ( panel1   
ab\t five feet by f\r4   ,,plate        
,,xii4--,a ,detail f an ,embroid]$      
,tableclo?4--,! entire surface ( ?is f9e
 :ite l95 clo? is /rewn ) a pr(usion (  
beautiful fl[]s1 work$ 9 floss silk 9   
bright col\rs4 ,! fl[]s 7 all drawn     
directly f nature by ! work]1 ,mrs4 ,w4 
,r4 ,le?aby4   ,,plate ,,xiii4--,an     
,embroid]$ ,alt> ,frontal1 execut$ by   
,miss ,may ,morris1 design$ by ,mr4     

,philip ,webb4--,! "w is c>ri$ out )    
floss silk 9 bright col\rs & gold ?read1
 bo? backgr\nd & patt]n be+ embroid]$4  
,! five crosses1 t are plac$ at regul>  
int]vals betwe5 ! v9e leaves1 are c\*$ 9
 gold pass+ ^u a silv]y silk gr\nd4     
,,plate ,,xiv4--,two ,pieces ( ,anci5t  
,weav+ tak5 f ,tombs 9 ,egypt4--,^! are 
exhibit$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4
 ,! upp] example is ab\t five in*es     
squ>e1 dat$ ,i,i,ird to ,v,i,ith c5tury1
 ,egypto-,roman "w1 & is said to h      
decorat$ a *ild's tunic4 ,x is wov5 9   
col\r$ silks ^u a gre5 gr\nd2 ! col\rs  
are /ill wond]fully fre% & bright4      
,weav]s may see v>i\s int]e/+ te*nical z
 well z o!r po9ts 9 ?is e>ly "w4 ,=     
in/ance1 h[ ! difficulty ( ! n>r[ deta*$
 v]tical l9es1 necessitat$ by *ange (   
col\r 9 ! weft1 has be5 ov]come by us+  
surface /it*+ in/ead1 ! easi] horizontal
 l9es be+ wov5 9 ! usual way4 ,a good   
deal ( ?is surface /it*+ c be se5 9 !   
anci5t weav+2 sometimes an entire patt]n
 is pick$ out by ?is me?od1 ! gr\nd hav+

 be5 fir/ wov5 all ov] 9 "s pla9 col\r4 
,! l[] bord] patt]n is a b& ( weav+ ab\t
 two in*es 9 wid?1 ,s>ac5ic "w4 ,x is   
wov5 9 col\r$ silks & l95 ?read ^u !    
actual w>p ?reads ( ! g>m5t t x         
decorates4 ,! weft ?reads 7 probably    
omitt$ = ! space ( "o & a half in*es :5 
! fabric 0 be+ made 9 ord] t "s         
ornam5tation might be put 91 9 ?is way4 
,"s ( ! weft ?reads h p]i%$1 leav+ ! w>p
 expos$ to sight2 ?is enables ! /ud5t to
 und]/& bett] ! mann] 9 :i* x 0 c>ri$   
out4   ,,plate ,,xv4--,an ,example ( a  
,tape/ry ,field /rewn ) ,fl[]s4--,?is   
k9d ( decoration is *>act]i/ic ( _m     
tape/ry gr\nds1 = ! /yle is p>ticul>ly  
suit$ to ! me?od ( "w1 & v happy 9      
result4 ,! detail %[n 9 ?is plate is    
tak5 f a piece ( late ,x,v,ith c5tury   
,flemi% "w2 x c>ries on1 h[ev]1 a mu*   
e>li] tradition4 ,! gr\nd is ( a d>k    
blue col\r1 & ! fl[]s v>i$ z 9 nature4  
,,plate ,,xvi4--,a ,tape/ry ,bag1 wov5 9
 col\r$ silk & gold ?read by !          
,au?or4--,! gr\nd is wov5 ) black silk1 

decorat$ ) gold at ! top & base4 ,!     
c5tre panel is c>ri$ out 9 brightly     
col\r$ silks & gold ?read4 ,! v>i\s     
comp>tm5ts are fill$ ) repres5tations ( 
fl[]s1 birds1 & fi%es1 ^u an alt]nat+   
purple & blue backgr\nd4 ,! divid+ l9es 
are ( gold ?read4  ,size ( bag1 t5 in*es
 by six4     ,,! ,,collotype ,,plates   
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,i4--,a detail f a 
,x,i,vth ,c5tury ,engli% ,cope4         
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,ii4--,two ,heads 
f a ,x,i,vth ,c5tury ,engli% ,cope      
pres]v$ at ,/eeple ,a/on1 ,ox=d%ire4    
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,iii4--,a small   
portion ( a ,quilt$ ,cov]let1 probably (
 ,sicilian "w4 ,date ab\t #adjj4        
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,iv4--,a portion (
 an ,alt> ,clo? ,b&1 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ 
silk ?reads ^u a :ite l95 gr\nd4        
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,v4--,a portion ( a
 late ,x,vth ,c5tury ,orphrey1 embroid]$
 ) ! arms ( ,h5ry ,/af=d1 ,duke (       
,buck+ham4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate        
,,vi4--,a detail ( ,foliage tak5 f a    
late ,x,v,ith ,c5tury ,embroid]$        

,picture1 repres5t+ ! /ory ( ,daphne4   
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,vii4--,an        
,embroid]$ ,x,v,i,ith or ,x,v,i,i,ith   
,c5tury ,wool-"w ,curta94  ,illu/ration3
 ,plate ,,viii4--,a portion ( a l>ge    
,x,v,i,ith ,c5tury ,l95 ,hang+1         
embroid]$ ) col\r$ wools4  ,illu/ration3
 ,plate ,,ix4--,cutwork ,lett]+ tak5 f a
 ,x,v,i,ith ,c5tury ,engli% ,sampl]4    
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,x4--,an ,embroid]$
 ,sampl]4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate         
,,xi4--,an example ( ,p]sian ,embroid]y4
  ,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xii4--,a detail
 f an ,embroid]$ ,tableclo?4 ,design$ & 
execut$ by ,mrs4 ,w4 ,r4 ,le?aby4       
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xiii4--,an       
,embroid]$ ,alt> ,frontal1 execut$ by   
,miss ,may ,morris1 design$ by ,mr4     
,philip ,webb4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate    
,,xiv4--,two pieces ( ,anci5t ,weav+    
tak5 f ,tombs 9 ,egypt4  ,illu/ration3  
,plate ,,xv4--,an example ( a ,tape/ry  
,field /rewn ) ,fl[]s4  ,illu/ration3   
,plate ,,xvi4--,a ,tape/ry ,bag1 wov5 9 
col\r$ silk & gold ?read by ! ,au?or4   

,,index   ,alt>-clo? b& 7,plate ,,iv47  
,alt> frontal 7,plate ,,xiii47          
,appliances1 #cd  ,appliances & mat]ials
 = tape/ry weav+1 #cae  ,appli$         
embroid]y1 #agd  ,appli$ "w1 #agb       
,backgr\nd1 !1 #df  ,bag1 tape/ry       
7,plate ,,xvi47  ,beads1 #ej  ,bobb9s1  
#cba  ,braid "w1 #aff  ,brod]ie         
anglaise1 #bbb  ,bullions1 #bce1 #bef   
,canvas "w1 #adg  ,coat-/ave1 #ccc      
,collotypes1 descriptive notes on1 #cef 
,col\r1 #gb  ,comb1 #cbb1 #cdd  ,cope at
 ,/eeple ,a/on 7,plate ,,ii471 #ceg     
,cope1 detail f ,x,i,vth c5tury ,engli% 
7,plate ,i471 #cef  ,cord1 #dj1 #bga    
,cord-mak+ appliance1 #ci1 #bgc         
,cotton1 #di  ,c\*+1 #afd  ,c\*+ gold1  
anci5t me?od (1 #bch  ,c\*+ gold1 usual 
me?od1 #bej  ,cov]let1 quilt$ ,sicilian 
7,plate ,,iii471 #ceh  ,crewel "w1 #ajc 
,curta91 ,x,v,i,ith c5tury 7,plate      
,,viii471 #cfa  ,curta91 ,x,v,i,ith     
c5tury wool-"w 7,plate ,,vii471 #cfa    
,cutwork1 #bac1 #bba   ,d>n$ nett+1 #baj
  ,d>n+1 #aif  ,d>n+1 patt]n1 #aig      

,design1 #cj1 #ea  ,design = tape/ry1   
#caa  ,design+1 patt]n1 #ea             
,directions1 practical1 #bib  ,drawn    
?read "w1 #bac  ,dress+ ! coat-/ave1    
#ccc   ,egyptian weav+ 7,plate ,,xiv471 
#cfd  ,emblems1 #bgj  ,embroid]y frame  
us$ z a loom1 #cbc  ,embroid]y1 wa%+1   
#big  ,embroid]y ) gold & silv] ?reads1 
#bbi   ,figure "w1 #fi  ,f9e draw+1 #cdf
  ,flax ?reads1 #di  ,foliage1 detail ( 
7,plate ,,vi471 #cfj  ,frames1          
embroid]y1 #ce  ,frame "w1 #cja  ,fr+es1
 #bhj   ,g>niture ( "w1 !1 #bga  ,gold &
 silv] ?reads1 embroid]y )1 #bbi  ,gold 
?read embroid]y1 #bbi   ,h]aldry1 #bfh  
,inlaid "w1 #ahj  ,int]lock+ /it*1 #cdg 
,knife1 #dc  ,knots1 #aah1 #bhf  ,knott$
 cord1 #bgg  ,knott$ ?read1 #aai   ,laid
 "w1 #afh  ,lett]+1 #bei  ,lett]+1      
cutwork1 ,x,v,i,ith c5tury 7,plate      
,,ix471 #cfb  ,l951 #dg  ,loom1 #cae    
,madeira "w1 #bbb  ,m>k+1 #bfb          
,mat]ials1 #dd  ,mat]ials & appliances =
 tape/ry weav+1 #cae  ,mat]ials = gold  
"w1 #bcc  ,me?ods ( "w1 #afd            

,monograms1 #bei   ,ne$les1 #ce1 #cbb   
,objects to "w1 #ca1 #cad  ,op5-"w      
fill+s1 #bja  ,opus plum>ium1 #aja      
,orphrey1 ,x,vth c5tury 7,plate ,v471   
#cei   ,pa/ "w1 /udy (1 #bh1 #ec  ,pa/e1
 embroid]y1 #bie  ,pat* "w1 #ahc        
,patt]n d>n+1 #aig  ,patt]n design+1 #ea
  ,patt]n trac+1 #cbh  ,patt]ns1        
transf]5ce (1 #db1 #bib  ,p]sian        
embroid]y 7,plate ,,xi471 #cfc  ,petit  
po9t pictures1 #adi  ,picots1 #adc      
,pi]c]1 #dc  ,practical directions1 #bib
  ,preci\s /ones1 #ej  ,prick]1 #db     
,puck]$ "w1 cure (1 #bih  ,purls1 #bef  
,quilt+1 #ahi   ,rais$ gold "w1 #bec    
,rais$ "w1 #aib   ,sampl]1 embroid]$    
7,plate ,x471 #cfb  ,sampl]s1 #adh      
,sat91 #dh  ,scissors1 #ce  ,%ad+1 #fh1 
#cdh  ,silk1 #dh1 #cbg  ,silk ?reads1   
#di  ,silv] & gold ?reads1 embroid]y )1 
#bbi  ,sp9dle1 #dc  ,/&s1 embroid]y     
frame1 #cg  ,/it*es1 #ge  ,/it*1 back1  
#ajg  ,/it*1 basket1 #aca  ,/it*1 braid1
 #hh  ,/it*1 bullion1 #aba  ,/it*1      
buttonhole1 #ajg  ,/it*1 cable *a91 #ij 

,/it*1 *a91 #gg  ,/it*1 *equ]$ *a91 #hd 
,/it*1 ,cretan1 #acd  ,/it*1 cross1 #aeb
  ,/it*1 d\ble back /it*1 #abg  ,/it*1  
fea!r /it*1 #abi  ,/it*1 fi%bone1 #aca  
,/it*1 ,fr5* knot1 #abj  ,/it*1 ,gobel91
 #aed  ,/it*1 h]r+-bone1 #abf  ,/it*1   
,holbe91 #aei  ,/it*1 ins]tion1 v>i\s1  
#aci  ,/it*1 int]lock+1 #cdg  ,/it*1    
,iri%1 #aee  ,/it*1 knot1 #abd  ,/it*1  
knott$ *a91 #ib  ,/it*1 long & %ort1 #ii
  ,/it*1 op5 *a91 #hf  ,/it*1 ov]ca/1   
#ajf  ,/it*1 plait1 #aef  ,/it*1 rococo1
 #afb  ,/it*1 rope1 #hf  ,/it*1         
,r\manian1 #acf  ,/it*1 sat91 #ie       
,/it*1 split1 #id  ,/it*1 /em1 #aja     
,/it*1 /roke1 #aei  ,/it*1 tailor's     
buttonhole1 #aji  ,/it*1 tamb\r1 #gg    
,/it*1 t5t1 #aec  ,/it*1 twi/$ *a91 #he 
,/it*1 two-sid$ ,italian1 #aef  ,/it*1  
zigzag *a91 #hc   ,tableclo?1 embroid]$ 
7,plate ,,xii471 #cfd  ,tamb\r frame1   
#ci  ,tape/ry bag 7,plate ,,xvi471 #cfe 
,tape/ry1 example 7,plate ,,xv471 #cff  
,tape/ry weav+1 introduction to1 #cjg   
,tassels1 #bhc  ,t>ni% ( gold & silv]   

?reads1 #bcg  ,?imbles1 #ce  ,?reads1   
#di1 #bii1 #cbg  ,?reads1 gold & silv]1 
#bbi  ,tools1 #cd  ,tools = tape/ry     
weav+1 #cae  ,trac+ patt]ns1 #db1 #cbh  
,trac+ patt]ns on w>p1 #ccf  ,transf]r+ 
patt]ns1 me?ods (1 #bib  ,transf]r+     
patt]ns1 requisites =1 #db   ,velvet1   
#dh   ,w>p1 #cbf  ,w>p+ ! loom1 #cbh    
,wa%+ embroid]y1 #big  ,weav+1 #cci     
,weav+1 ,egyptian 7,plate ,,xiv471 #cfd 
,weav+1 tape/ry1 #cje  ,"w1 g>niture (1 
#bga  ,"w1 me?ods (1 #afd  ,"w1         
prep>ations =1 #cbh  ,"w1 protection &  
pres]vation (1 #bib  ,wools1 #di1 #cbg  
,pr9t$ by ,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson  ,,co4 
,ed9burgh  ,london            99        
99       99       99       99           
,,embroid]y ,,mat]ials  ,,george ,,k5n+ 
,,son1 ,,goldsmi?s1 ,,gold ,,lacem51 ,,&
 ,,embroid]]s1 are ! actual manufactur]s
 ( all mat]ials t are be/ = ,embroid]y (
 any & e description4  ,illu/ration     
,illu/ration  ,! foll[+ are a few       
articles f ! great v>iety !y            
manufacture3 ,?reads1 ,tamb\rs1 ,braids1

 ,laces1 & ,cords 9 ,gold1 ,silv]1      
,t9sel1 & ,alum9ium2 also ,spangles1    
,sequ9s1 ,ornam5ts1 & ,beads ( e        
possible v>iety4  ,please insi/ on y\r  
,drap] or ,fancy ,w>eh\seman supply+    
only mat]ials manufactur$ by ,,george   
,,k5n+  ,,son4  ,,manufactory3 #a_/d    
,,little ,,brita91 ,e4,c4  ,& at        
,liv]pool1 ,glasg[1 & ,man*e/]4         
,,ribbon ,,weav+ ,,factory1 ,,cov5try   
99       99       99       99       99  
,j4 ,,maygrove  ,,co4 ,,ltd4  ,,mills-- 
,,w>eh\se-- ,,/4 ,,albans4       #ea    
,,ald]sgate ,,/reet1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4   
,manufactur]s ( ,silks = ,weav+ &       
,embroid]y4  ,= ,,really ,,reliable     
,,boil+ & ,,unfad+ ,,dyes4              
,,maygrove',s ,,du*esse ,,floss4        
,,maygrove',s ,,twi/$ ,,embroid]y4      
,,maygrove',s ,,filoselle1 c4           
,,unequall$ ,,= ,,lu/re1 ,,p]man5ce1 ,,&
 ,,arti/ic ,,graduations ,,( ,,col\r4   
,,ready ,,= ,,use4   ,,= ,,weav+4  ,,*9a
 ,,tram                 #ajjj ,%ades4   
,,tussah ,,tram ,,& ,,organz9e   #ejj   

,%ades4 ,,ori5tal ,,flo*e               
#ejj ,%ades4 ,,wor/$ ,,y>ns--,,cotton   
,,y>ns4   ,,/ock$ ,,ready ,,= ,,dye+4   
,organz9es1 ,sew+s1 ,flosses1 ,twi/s1 & 
,,spun ,,silks4 ,,wor/$ ,cords1         
,g5appes1 ,mohairs1 c4 c4          99   
99       99       99       99   ,,pla/] 
,,ca/s  ,,lett]+ ,,= ,,lett] ,,cutt]s   
,,by ,a4 ,e4 ,r4 ,,gill  ,pla/] ,ca/s ( 
! ,/ones %[n on ! ,collotype ,plates1   
numb]s #ac1 #ad1 & #ae1 9 ! ,portfolio1 
,manuscript & ,inscription ,lett]s1 by  
,edw>d ,john/on1 price #cs4 #f;d4 net1  
are obta9able f ! ,publi%]1 or direct f 
,messrs4 ,c4 ,,smi?  ,,sons1 ,m\ld]s1   
#ae ,k5ti% ,t[n ,road1 ,london1 ,n4,w41 
at ! foll[+ prices3--  ,roman ,capital  
,lett]s 7,incis$74         ,l[]-case    
,italics1 c4 7,incis$74      #abs4 net  
p] set ( ?ree4 ,rais$ ,lett]s1          
,capitals1 c4                           
,,pack$--,,deliv]$ ,,free ,,9           
,,london--,,c>riage ,,=w>d ,,= ,,c\ntry 
,^! ,ca/s be+ facsimiles ( ! actual     
/ones make ! be/ k9d ( models = ,lett]  

,cutt]s & ,sculptors1 & all :o h to d ) 
,inscriptions4 ,be+ small1 !y are easily
 h&l$4  ,! ,portfolio1 ,manuscript &    
,inscription ,lett]s1 by ,edw>d         
,john/on1 is int5d$ z a work+ supplem5t 
to 8 h&book1 ,writ+ & ,illum9at+1 &     
,lett]+1 price #fs4 #f;d4 net4 ,x       
conta9s #af plates 9 all1 measur+       
#i-g_/h x #ab-c_/h in*es1 ) full        
descriptions & notes4  ,,john ,,hogg1   
,publi%]1 #ac ,,pat]no/] ,,r[1 ,,london1
 ,e4,c4          99       99       99   
99       99   ,,rob]t ,s4 ,,ronald      
,decorator & ,uphol/]]  ,illu/ration    
,loom ,mak] to ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art1  
,s\? ,k5s+ton  ,table or ,p$e/al ,looms 
to ,ord]  ,prices on ,application       
,(fice & ,works-- ,,/4 ,,ann',s ,,hill1 
,,w&swor?1 ,,london1 ,s4,w4          99 
99       99       99       99   ,,!     
,,arti/ic ,,crafts ,,s]ies   ,,bookb9d+ 
,,& ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,books4 ,by ,,d\glas 
,,cock]ell4 ,?ird ,edition4 #abb ,draw+s
 by ,,noel ,,rooke4 #h ,pages ,collotype
 ,reproductions4 #ceb pp4 #es4 net4     

,,extract ,,f ,! ,times4    444 ,a      
capital pro( ( ! reason$ ?or\ghness 9   
workman%ip1   :i* is ! fir/ article 9 ! 
cre$ ( ^? :o 444 are   attempt+ to c>ry 
into practice ! indu/rial tea*+ ( ,rusk9
   & ,william ,morris4   ,,silv]work ,,&
 ,,jewell]y4 ,by ,h4 ,,wilson4 ,second  
,edition4 #bhj ,diagrams by ! ,au?or4   
#cb ,pages ( ,collotype ,reproductions4 
#ejj pp4 #fs4 #f;d4 net4  ,conta9+      
special *apt]s1 fully illu/rat$1 bas$ on
 demon/rations & ) notes by ,pr(essor   
,,unno ,,bisei & ,pr(essor ,t4          
,,kobaya%i1 ( ! ,imp]ial ,f9e ,art      
,college at ,tokyo1 giv+ ! traditional  
me?od ( ,ca/+1 ,damasc5+1 ,incru/ation1 
,inlay+1 ,engrav+1 & ,metal ,col\r+ /ill
 practis$ 9 ,japan1 also on ,niello1 !  
,mak+ ( ,boxes & ,c>d ,cases1 ) *apt]s  
on ,egyptian & ,ori5tal me?ods ( "w4    
,,woodc>v+3 ,,design ,,& ,,workman%ip4  
,by ,,george ,,jack4 #gi ,draw+s by !   
,au?or4 #af ,pages ( ,collotype         
,reproductions4 #cbj pp4 #es4 net4      
,,extract ,,f ,! ,build]s' ,j\rnal4     

,und\bt$ly ! be/ guide to ,woodc>v+     
extant4444 ,a practical   "w1 writt5 )  
cle>ness & lit]>y p[] by a practical man
   444 ( great arti/ic tal5t4444 ,!     
illu/rations are excell5t4   ,,/a9$     
,,glass ,,"w4 ,by ,c4 ,w4 ,,:all4 #gc   
,diagrams by ,two ( ,8 ,appr5tices4 #af 
,pages ( ,collotype ,reproductions4 #cib
 pp4 #es4 net4  ,,extract ,,f ,!        
,scotsman4    ,x provides an exposition 
at once in/ructive & int]e/+ (   !      
work%op practice ( ! craft 444 ( ,/a9$  
,glass1 animat$   ?r\gh\t by an enc\rag+
 & *e]ful s5se ( ! dignity &   ! elevat+
 influ5ce ( su* an occupation4          
,,embroid]y ,,& ,,tape/ry ,,weav+4 ,by  
,mrs4 ,a4 ,h4 ,,*ri/ie4 #agh ,diagrams &
 ,illu/rations by ! ,au?or4 #af ,pages (
 ,collotype ,reproductions4 #cbj pp4    
#fs4 net4 7,?ird ,edition47  ,,extract  
,,f ,! ,pall ,mall ,gazette4    ,mrs4   
,*ri/ie has p]=m$ h] task to admiration1
 444 & h]   lucid explanations ( v>i\s  
k9ds ( /it*es 444 %\ld be (   value to  
all work]s at embroid]y or tape/ry weav+

 & to   novices anxi\s to le>n4         
,,writ+ ,,& ,,illum9at+1 ,,& ,,lett]+4  
,by ,,edw>d ,,john/on4 #bbg             
,illu/rations & ,diagrams by ! ,au?or & 
,,noel ,,rooke4 #h ,pages ( ,examples 9 
,r$ & ,black4 #bd ,pages ( ,collotype   
,reproductions4 #eab pp4 7,fif?         
,edition47  ,,extract ,,f ,! ,a!naeum4  
444 ,?is book belongs to t extremely r>e
 class 9 :i* e   l9e be>s ! impress (   
complete ma/]y ( ! subject4 ,we         
congratulate ,mr4 ,john/on on hav+      
produc$ a "w at once orig9al   &        
complete4   ,,h&-,,loom ,,weav+4 ,by    
,,lu!r ,,hoop]4 #abe ,draw+s by ! ,au?or
 & ,,noel ,,rooke4 ,col\r$ & ,collotype 
,reproductions4 #cfh pp4 #fs4 net4      
,,extract ,,f ,! ,morn+ ,po/4    444 ,e 
phase & process 9 weav+ is describ$ ) s 
cle>   & c>eful an exactitude1 t1 help$ 
z ! text is by !   ,au?or's sket*es &   
diagrams1 ! read] %\ld h no difficulty  
9 conqu]+ ) its aid ! rudim5ts ( !      
craft4   ,,portfolios 79 ! ,s]ies7      
already issu$4  ,,s*ool ,,copies ,,&    

,,examples4 ,select$ by ,w4 ,r4 ,,le?aby
 & ,a4 ,h4 ,,*ri/ie4 #ab ,draw+ ,copies 
7#a 9 col\rs71 ) ,descriptive           
,lett]press4 #cs4 #f;d4 net4            
,,manuscript ,,& ,,inscription ,,lett]s4
 ,= ,s*ools & ,classes & ! ,use (       
,craftsm54 ,by ,,edw>d ,,john/on4 ,) #e 
,plates by ,a4 ,e4 ,r4 ,,gill1 #af      
,plates 9 all4 ,full ,notes &           
,descriptions by ! ,au?or4 #cs4 #f;d4   
net4 7,second ,edition47   ,,new        
,,volume ,,9 ,,! ,,press  ,,h]aldry ,,= 
,,craftsm5 ,,& ,,design]s  ,,by  ,w4 ,h4
 ,,/4 ,,john ,,hope1 ,m4,a4  ,fur!r     
,volumes & ,portfolios 9 prep>ation4    
,,on ,,workman%ip  ,a ,,lecture ,,by ,h4
 ,,wilson  ,,au?or ,,( ,,silv]work ,,&  
,,jewell]y  #as4 #f;d4 net   ,,john     
,,hogg1 #ac ,,pat]no/] ,,r[1 ,,london