by the ,bibliothque nationale de ,france 7,bn,f_/,gallica7 at http3_/_/gallica4bnf4fr7 ,,prehistoric ,,textile ,,art ,,of ,,eastern ,,united ,,states ,,by ,,william ,,henry ,,holmes ,,contents ,page ,introductory #i ,scope of the work #i ,definition of the art #aj ,materials and processes #aj ,sources of information #aa ,products of the art #ac ,wattle work #ac ,basketry #ae ,types of basketry #ae ,baskets #ae ,sieves and strainers #ag ,cradles #ah ,shields #ah ,matting #ah ,pliable fabrics #ba ,development of spinning and weaving #ba ,cloths #bb ,nets #bf ,feather-work #bg ,embroidery #bh ,fossil fabrics #bh ,modes of preservation #bh ,fabrics from caves and shelters #bi ,charred remains of fabrics from mounds #ce ,fabrics preserved by contact with copper #cf ,fabrics impressed on pottery #cg ,,index ,,illustrations ,page ,,plate ,i4 ,products of the textile art3 a1 ,openwork fish baskets of ,virginia ,indians2 b1 ,manner of weaving3 c1 ,basket strainer2 d1 ,quiver of rushes2 e1 ,mat of rushes #ah ,,ii4 ,mat of split cane #bh ,,iii4 ,mantle or skirt of light-colored stuff #cj ,,iv4 ,fringed skirt #cb ,v4 ,frayed bag and skeins of hemp fiber #cd ,,vi4 ,charred cloth from mounds in ,ohio #cf ,,vii4 ,drawings of charred fabric from mounds #ch ,,viii4 ,copper celts with remnants of cloth #dj ,,ix4 ,bits of fabric-marked pottery1 with clay casts of same #dd ,,fig4 #a4 ,fish weir of the ,virginia ,indians #ad #b4 ,use of mats in an ,indian council #ai #c4 ,use of mat in sleeping #bj #d4 ,section of cliff showing position of grave shelter #ca #e4 ,portion of mantle showing manner of weaving #cb #f4 ,analysis of the weaving of fringed skirt #cb #g4 ,former costumes of woman and girl in ,louisiana #cc #h4 ,border of bag #cd #i4 ,sandal or moccasin from a ,kentucky cave #ce #aj4 ,fine1 closely woven cloth preserved by contact with copper beads #cf #aa4 ,small portion of rush matting preserved by contact with copper #cg #ab4 ,split-cane matting from ,petite ,ause island1 ,louisiana #ch #ac4 ,fabric-marked vase from a mound in ,north ,carolina #ci #ad4 ,diagonal fabric1 ancient pottery of ,tennessee #ci #ae4 ,fabric from the ancient pottery of ,alabama #dj #af4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee #dj #ag4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee #dj #ah4 ,twined fabric from ancient salt vessel1 ,illinois #da #ai4 ,twined fabric from ancient salt vessel1 ,illinois #da #bj4 ,twined fabric from a piece of clay1 ,arkansas #db #ba4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee #db #bb4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,missouri #db #bc4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,carter county1 ,tennessee #dc #bd4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee #dc #be4 ,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee #dc #bf4 ,twined fabric1 with patterns1 ,ohio valley #dd #bg4 ,net from ancient pottery1 ,district of ,columbia #dd #bh4 ,net from ancient pottery1 ,north ,carolina #de ,,prehistoric ,,textile ,,art ,,of ,,eastern ,,united ,,states ,,by ,w4 ,h4 ,,holmes ,,introductory4 ,,scope ,,of ,,the ,,work4 ,about the year #ahij the writer was requested by the ,director of the ,bureau of ,ethnology to prepare certain papers on aboriginal art1 to accompany the final report of ,dr4 ,cyrus ,thomas on his explorations of mounds and other ancient remains in eastern ,united ,states4 ,these papers were to treat of those arts represented most fully by relics recovered in the field explored4 ,they included studies of the art of pottery1 of the textile art and of art in shell1 and a paper on native tobacco pipes4 ,three of these papers were already completed when it was decided to issue the main work of ,dr4 ,thomas independently of the several papers prepared by his associates4 ,it thus happens that the present paper1 written to form a limited section of a work restricted to narrow geographic limits1 covers so small a fragment of the aboriginal textile field4 ,the materials considered in this paper include little not germane to the studies conducted by ,dr4 ,thomas in the mound region1 the collections used having been made largely by members of the ,bureau of ,ethnology acting under his supervision4 ,two or three papers have already been published in the annual reports of the ,bureau in which parts of the same collections have been utilized1 and a few of the illustrations prepared for these papers are reproduced in this more comprehensive study4 ,until within the last few years textile fabrics have hardly been recognized as having a place among the materials to be utilized in the discussion of ,north ,american archeology4 ,recent studies of the art of the mound-building tribes have1 however1 served to demonstrate their importance1 and the evidence now furnished by this art can be placed alongside of that of arts in clay1 stone1 and metal1 as a factor in determining the culture status of the prehistoric peoples and in defining their relations to the historic ,indians4 ,this change is due to the more careful investigations of recent times1 to the utilization of new lines of archeologic research1 and to the better knowledge of the character and scope of historic and modern native art4 ,a comparison of the textiles obtained from ancient mounds and graves with the work of living tribes has demonstrated their practical identity in materials1 in processes of manufacture1 and in articles produced4 ,thus another important link is added to the chain that binds together the ancient and the modern tribes4 ,,definition ,,of ,,the ,,art4 ,the textile art dates back to the very inception of culture1 and its practice is next to universal among living peoples4 ,in very early stages of culture progress it embraced the stems of numerous branches of industry afterward differentiated through the utilization of other materials or through the employment of distinct systems of construction4 ,at all periods of cultural development it has been a most indispensable art1 and with some peoples it has reached a marvelous perfection1 both technically and esthetically4 ,woven fabrics include all those products of art in which the elements or parts employed in construction are more or less filamental1 and are combined by methods conditioned chiefly by their flexibility4 ,the processes employed are known by such terms as wattling1 interlacing1 plaiting1 netting1 weaving1 sewing1 and embroidering4 ,,materials ,,and ,,processes4 ,viewing the entire textile field1 we find that the range of products is extremely wide4 ,on the one hand there is the rude interlacing of branches1 vines1 roots1 and canes in constructing houses1 weirs1 cages1 rafts1 bridges1 and the like1 and on the other1 the spinning of threads of almost microscopic fineness and the weaving of textures of marvelous delicacy and beauty4 ,the more cultured peoples of ,central ,america and ,south ,america had accomplished wonders in the use of the loom and the embroidery frame1 but the work of the natives of the ,united ,states was on a decidedly lower plane4 ,in basketry and certain classes of garment-making1 the inhabitants of the ,mississippi valley were well advanced at the period of ,european conquest1 and there is ample evidence to show that the mound-building peoples were not behind historic tribes in this matter4 ,in many sections of our country the art is still practiced1 and with a technical perfection and an artistic refinement of high order1 as the splendid collections in our museums amply show4 ,the degree of success in the textile art is not necessarily a reliable index of the culture status of the peoples concerned1 as progress in a particular art depends much upon the encouragement given to it by local features of environment4 ,the tribe that had good clay used earthenware and neglected basketry1 and the community well supplied with skins of animals did not need to undertake the difficult and laborious task of spinning fibers and weaving garments and bedding4 ,thus it appears that well-advanced peoples may have produced inferior textiles and that backward tribes may have excelled in the art4 ,caution is necessary in using the evidence furnished by the art to aid in determining relative degrees of culture4 ,,sources ,,of ,,information4 ,the failure of the textile art to secure a prominent place in the field of archeologic evidence is due to the susceptibility of the products to decay4 ,examples of archaic work survive to us only by virtue of exceptionally favorable circumstances2 it rarely happened that mound fabrics were so conditioned1 as the soil in which they were buried is generally porous and moist2 they were in some cases preserved through contact with objects of copper1 the oxides of that metal having a tendency to arrest decay4 ,the custom of burial in caves and rock shelters has led to the preservation of numerous fabrics through the agency of certain salts with which the soil is charged4 ,preservation by charring is common1 and it is held by some that carbonization without the agency of fire has in some cases taken place4 ,considerable knowledge of the fabrics of the ancient ,north ,american tribes is preserved in a way wholly distinct from the preceding4 ,the primitive potter employed woven textiles in the manufacture of earthenware2 during the processes of construction the fabrics were impressed on the soft clay1 and when the vessels were baked the impressions became fixed4 ,the study of these impressions led to meager results until the idea was conceived of taking castings from them in clay1 wax1 or paper2 through this device the negative impression becomes a positive reproduction and the fabrics are shown in relief1 every feature coming out with surprising distinctness2 it is possible even to discover the nature of the threads employed and to detect the manner of their combination4 ,evidence of the practice of textile arts by many ancient nations is preserved to us by such implements of weaving as happened to be of enduring materials2 spindle-whorls in clay and stone are perhaps the most common of these relics4 ,these objects tell us definitely of the practice of the art1 but give little insight into the character of the products4 ,it is a notable fact that evidence of this class is almost wholly wanting in the ,united ,states2 spindle-whorls have in rare cases been reported from southern localities1 and a few writers have mentioned their use by modern tribes4 ,it happens that in some cases we may learn something of the progress made by vanished peoples in this art by a study of the forms of such of their earthen vessels as were manifestly derived from baskets1 or made in imitation of them4 ,the ornamental art of peoples well advanced in culture often bears evidence of the influence of the system of combination of parts followed originally in the textile arts1 and little art1 ancient or modern1 in which men have endeavored to embody beauty1 is without strongly marked traces of this influence4 ,by the study of archaic ornament embodied in clay1 wood1 and stone1 therefore1 the archeologist may hope to add something to the sum of his knowledge of ancient textiles4 ,it should be noted that the pottery of the mound-builders shows less evidence of the influence of textile forms than does that of most other nations1 and some groups of their ware appear to present no recognizable traces of it whatever4 ,although much information has been brought together from all of the sources mentioned1 it is not at all certain that we can form anything like a complete or correct notion of the character and scope of the art as practiced by the mound-builders4 ,no doubt the finest articles of apparel were often buried with the dead1 but a very small fraction only of the mortuary wrappings or costumes has been preserved1 and from vast areas once thickly inhabited by the most advanced tribes nothing whatever has been collected4 ,of embroideries1 featherwork1 and the like1 so frequently mentioned by early travelers1 hardly a trace is left4 ,the relations of our historic tribes to the ancient peoples of our continent and to all of the nations1 ancient and modern1 who built mounds and earthworks1 are now generally considered so intimate that no objection can be raised to the utilization of the accounts of early explorers in the elucidation of such features of the art as archeology has failed to record4 ,the first step in this study may consist quite properly of a review of what is recorded of the historic art4 ,subsequently the purely archeologic data will be given4 ,,products ,,of ,,the ,,art4 ,in undertaking to classify the textile fabrics of the mound region it is found that1 although there is an unbroken gradation from the rudest and heaviest textile constructions to the most delicate and refined textures1 a number of well-marked divisions may be made4 ,the broadest of these is based on the use of spun as opposed to unspun strands or parts1 a classification corresponding somewhat closely to the division into rigid and pliable forms4 ,material1 method of combination of parts1 and function may each be made the basis of classification1 but for present purposes a simple presentation of the whole body of products1 beginning with the rudest or most primitive forms and ending with the most elaborate and artistic products1 is sufficient4 ,the material will be presented in the following order3 7#a7 ,wattle work2 7#b7 basketry2 7#c7 matting2 7#d7 pliable fabrics or cloths4 ,,wattle ,,work4 ,the term wattling is applied to such constructions as employ by interlacing1 plaiting1 etc41 somewhat heavy1 rigid1 or slightly pliable parts1 as rods1 boughs1 canes1 and vines4 ,primitive shelters and dwellings are very often constructed in this manner1 and rafts1 cages1 bridges1 fish weirs1 and inclosures of various kinds were and still are made or partly made in this manner4 ,as a matter of course1 few of these constructions are known to us save through historic channels2 but traces of wattle work are found in the mounds of the lower ,mississippi valley1 where imprints of the interlaced canes occur in the baked clay plaster with which the dwellings were finished4 ,when we consider the nature of the materials at hand1 and the close correspondence in habits and customs of our prehistoric peoples with the tribes found living by the earliest explorers and settlers1 we naturally conclude that this class of construction was very common at all known periods of native ,american history4 ,the constructors of native dwellings generally employed pliable branches or saplings1 which are bound together with vines1 twigs1 and other more pliable woody forms4 ,john ,smith says of the ,indians of ,virginia#a that-- ,their houses are built like our ,arbors1 of small young springs bowed and tyed1 and so close covered with ,mats1 or the barkes of trees very handsomely1 that notwithstanding either winde1 raine1 or weather1 they are as warm as stooues1 but very smoaky1 yet at the toppe of the house there is a hole made for the smoake to goe into right over the fire4 #a ,hist4 ,virginia1 ,john ,smith4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 vol4 ,i1 p4 #acj4 ,butel-,dumont also1 in describing the dwellings of the ,natchez ,indians of the lower ,mississippi region1 speaks of the door of an ,indian cabin made of dried canes fastened and interlaced on two other canes placed across4#b ,a singular use of wattle work is mentioned by ,lafitau4 ,he states that the young men1 when going through the ordeal of initiation on attaining their majority1 were placed apart in-- ,an inclosure very strongly built1 made expressly for this purpose1 one of which ,i saw in #afid1 which belonged to the ,indians of ,paumankie4 ,it was in the form of a sugar loaf and was open on all sides like a trellis to admit the air4#c ,of a somewhat similar nature was the construction of biers described by ,butel-,dumont4 ,speaking of the ,mobilians1 he says3 ,when their chief is dead they proceed as follows3 ,at #ae or #bj feet from his cabin they erect a kind of platform raised about #d feet from the ground4 ,this is composed of four large forked poles of oak wood planted in the earth1 with others placed across2 this is covered with canes bound and interlaced so as to resemble greatly the bed used by the natives4#d ,according to ,john ,lawson1 similarly constructed hurdles were in use among the ,carolina ,indians4 ,illustration3 #a4--;,fish weir of the ,virginia ,indiana 7after ,hariot74 ,the tide-water tribes of the ,atlantic coast region made very frequent use of fish weirs1 which were essentially textile in character4 ,john ,smith mentions their use in ,virginia1 and ,hariot gives a number of plates in which the weirs are delineated4 ,the cut here given 7figure #a7 is from ,hariot's plate ,,xiii4 ,it represents a very elaborate trap2 much simpler forms are shown in other plates4 ,slender poles set in the shallow water are held in place by wattling or interlacing of pliable parts4 ,it is probable that traps of similar character were used by the mound-building tribes wherever the conditions were favorable4 ,the only apparent traces of such weirs yet found in any part of the country are a number of stumps of stakes discovered by ,h4 ,t4 ,cresson in ,delaware river near ,wilmington1 but these appear to be much heavier than would have been used for the purpose by the natives4 ,another somewhat usual use of wattling is mentioned by various authors4 ,butel-,dumont speaks of a raft made of poles and canes1 and ,du ,pratz1 writing of the ,louisiana ,indians1 says3 ,the conveniencies for passing rivers would soon be suggested to them by the floating of wood upon the water4 ,accordingly one of their methods of crossing rivers is upon floats of canes1 which are called by them ,cajeu1 and are formed in this manner4 ,they cut a great number of canes1 which they tie up into faggots1 part of which they fasten together sideways1 and over these they lay a few crossways1 binding all close together1 and then launching it into the water4#e ,we learn from various authors that cage-like coffins were constructed of canes and reeds something after the wattle style2 and hampers1 cages for animals1 chests for treasures or regalia1 biers1 carrying chairs1 fish baskets1 beds and seats were often similarly made4 ,these articles1 being generally light and portable1 and constructed of delicate parts1 can as well be classed with basketry as with wattle work4 #a ,hist4 ,virginia1 ,john ,smith4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 vol4 ,i1 p4 #acj4 #b ,memoires ,historiques sur la ,louisiane1 ,george ,marie ,butel-,dumont4 ,paris1 #agec1 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #ajd4 #c ,moeurs dea ,sauvages ,ameriquains1 ,pre ,joseph ,franois ,lafitau4 ,paris1 #agbd1 vol4 ,i1 p4 #bhf4 #d ,op4 cit41 vol4 ,i1 p4 #bdd4 #e ,hist4 ,louisiana1 ,le ,page ,du ,pratz4 ,english translation1 ,london1 #agfc1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #bbh-bbi4 ,,basketry4 ,,types ,,of ,,basketry4 ,perhaps no branch of the textile art was of greater importance to the aborigines than basketry4 ,this term may be made to cover all woven articles of a portable kind which have sufficient rigidity to retain definite or stable form without distention by contents or by other extraneous form of support4 ,it will readily be seen that in shape1 texture1 use1 size1 etc41 a very wide range of products is here to be considered4 ,basketry includes a number of groups of utensils distinguished from one another by the use to which they are devoted4 ,there are baskets proper1 hampers1 cradles1 shields1 quivers1 sieves1 etc4 ,there is frequent historical mention of the use of basketry1 but the descriptions of form and construction are meager4 ,an excellent idea of the ancient art can be gained from the art of the present time1 and there is every reason to believe that close correspondence exists throughout4 ,,baskets4 ,lawson refers to basket-making and other textile arts of the ,carolina ,indians in the following language3 ,the ,indian women's work is to cook the victuals for the whole family1 and to make mats1 baskets1 girdles1 of possum hair1 and such like4 99 99 99 ,the mats the ,indian women make are of rushes1 and about five feet high1 and two fathom long1 and sewed double1 that is1 two together2 whereby they become very commodious to lay under our beds1 or to sleep on in the summer season in the day time1 and for our slaves in the night4 ,there are other mats made of flags1 which the ,tuskeruro ,indians make1 and sell to the inhabitants4 ,the baskets our neighboring ,indians make are all made of a very fine sort of bullrushes1 and sometimes of silk grass1 which they work with figures of beasts1 birds1 fishes1 c4 ,a great way up in the country1 both baskets and mats are made of the split reeds1 which are only the outward shining part of the cane4 ,of these ,i have seen mats1 baskets1 and dressing boxes1 very artificially done4#f ,james ,adair1 although1 a comparatively recent writer1 gives such definite and valuable information regarding the handiwork of the ,southern ,indians that the following extracts may well be made4 ,speaking of the ,cherokees1 he remarks3 ,they make the handsomest clothes baskets1 ,i ever saw1 considering their materials4 ,they divide large swamp canes1 into long1 thin1 narrow splinters1 which they dye of several colours1 and manage the workmanship so well1 that both the inside and outside are covered with a beautiful variety of pleasing figures2 and1 though for the space of two inches below the upper edge of each basket1 it is worked into one1 through the other parts they are worked asunder1 as if they were two joined a-top by some strong cement4 ,a large nest consists of eight or ten baskets1 contained within each other4 ,their dimensions are different1 but they usually make the outside basket about a foot deep1 a foot and an half broad1 and almost a yard long4#g ,this statement could in most respects be made with equal truth and propriety of the ,cherokee work of the present time2 and their pre-,columbian art must have been even more pleasing1 as the following paragraph suggests3 ,the ,indians1 by reason of our supplying them so cheap with every sort of goods1 have forgotten the chief part of their ancient mechanical skill1 so as not to be well able now1 at least for some years1 to live independent of us4 ,formerly1 those baskets which the ,cheerake made1 were so highly esteemed even in ,south ,carolina1 the politest of our colonies1 for domestic usefulness1 beauty1 and skilful variety1 that a large nest of them cost upwards of a moidore4#h ,that there was much uniformity in the processes and range of products and uses throughout the country is apparent from statements made by numerous writers4 ,speaking of the ,louisiana ,indians1 ,du ,pratz says3 ,the women likewise make a kind of hampers to carry corn1 flesh1 fish1 or any other thing which they want to transport from one place to another2 they are round1 deeper than broad1 and of all sizes4 99 99 99 ,they make baskets with long lids that roll doubly over them1 and in these they place their earrings and pendants1 their bracelets1 garters1 their ribbands for their hair1 and their vermillion for painting themselves1 if they have any1 but when they have no vermillion they boil ochre1 and paint themselves with that4#i ,it happens that few baskets have been recovered from mounds and graves1 but they are occasionally reported as having been discovered in caverns and shelters where conditions were especially favorable to their preservation4 ,such specimens may as reasonably be attributed to the mound-building as to the other ,indians4 ,the following statement is from ,john ,haywood3 ,on the south side of ,cumberland river1 about #bb miles above ,cairo1 99 99 99 is a cave 99 99 994 ,in this room1 near about the center1 were found sitting in baskets made of cane1 three human bodies2 the flesh entire1 but a little shrivelled1 and not much so4 ,the bodies were those of a man1 a female and a small child4 ,the complexion of all was very fair1 and white1 without any intermixture of the copper colour4 ,their eyes were blue2 their hair auburn1 and fine4 ,the teeth were very white1 their stature was delicate1 about the size of the whites of the present day4 ,the man was wrapped in #ad dressed deer skins4 ,the #ad deer skins were wrapped in what those present called blankets4 ,they were made of bark1 like those found in the cave in ,white county4 ,the form of the baskets which inclosed them1 was pyramidal1 being larger at the bottom1 and declining to the top4 ,the heads of the skeletons1 from the neck1 were above the summits of the blankets4#aj ,,sieves ,,and ,,strainers4 ,it is apparent that baskets of open construction were employed as sieves in pre-,columbian as well as in post-,columbian times4 ,almost any basket could be utilized on occasion for separating fine from coarse particles of food or other pulverulent substances1 but special forms were sometimes made for the purpose1 having varying degrees of refinement to suit the material to be separated4 ,bartram mentions the use of a sieve by the ,georgia ,indians in straining a cooling sort of jelly called conti1 made by pounding certain roots in a mortar and adding water4 ,butel-,dumont describes the sieves and winnowing fans of the ,louisiana ,indians4 ,the ,indian women1 he says1 make very fine sieves-- ,with the skin which they take off of the canes2 they also make some with larger holes1 which serve as bolters1 and still others without holes1 to be used as winnowing fans4 99 99 99 ,they also make baskets very neatly fashioned1 cradles for holding maize2 and with the tail feathers of turkeys1 which they have much skill in arranging1 they make fans not only for their own use1 but which even our ,french women do not disdain to use4#aa ,le ,page ,du ,pratz says that for sifting the flour of their maiz1 and for other uses1 the natives make sieves of various finenesses of the splits of cane2#ab and a similar use by the ,indians of ,virginia is recorded by ,john ,smith3 ,they use a small basket for their ,temmes1 then pound againe the great1 and so separating by dashing their hand in the basket1 receive the flowr in a platter of wood scraped to that forme with burning and shels4#ac ,from ,hakluyt we have the following3 ,their old wheat they firste steepe a night in hot water1 and in the morning pounding yt in a morter1 they use a small baskett for the boulter or searser1 and when they have syfted fourth the finest1 they pound againe the great1 and so separating yt by dashing their hand in the baskett1 receave the flower in a platter of wood1 which1 blending with water1 etc4#ad ,,cradles4 ,that cradles of textile construction were used by the mound-builders may be taken for granted4 ,the following is from ,du ,pratz1 who is speaking of the work of the inhabitants of the lower ,mississippi3 ,this cradle is about two feet and a half long1 nine inches broad4 ,it is skillfully made of straight canes of the length desired for the cradle1 and at the end they are cut in half and doubled under to form the foot4 ,the whole is only half a foot high4 ,this cradle is very light1 weighing only two pounds4 99 99 99 ,the infant being rocked lengthwise1 its head is not shaken as are those who are rocked from side to side1 as in ,france4 99 99 99 ,the cradle is rocked by means of two ends of canes1 which make two rollers4#ae ,,shields4 ,woven targets or shields would seem to be rather novel objects1 but such are mentioned by ,john ,smith1 who used those belonging to friendly ,indians in an encounter on the ,chesapeake3 ,here the ,massawomek ,targets stood vs in good stead1 for vpon ,mosco's words we had set them about the forepart of our ,boat like a forecastle1 from whence we securely beat the ,salvages from off the plaine without any hurt4 99 99 99 ,arming ourselues with these light ,targets 7which are made of little small sticks woven betwixt strings of their hempe and silke grasse1 as is our cloth1 but so firmly that no arrow can possibly pierce them74#af #f ,hist4 of ,carolina1 etc41 ,john ,lawson4 ,london1 #agad1 pp4 #cjg1 #cjh4 #g ,history of the ,american ,indians4 ,london1 #agge1 p4 #dbd4 #h ,ibid41 p4 #dbd4 #i ,hist4 ,louisiana4 ,english translation1 ,london1 #agfc1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #bbg-bbh4 #aj ,nat4 and ,abor4 ,hist4 of ,tenn41 ,john ,haywood4 ,nashville1 #ahbc1 pp4 #aia-aib4 #aa ,op4 cit41 vol4 ,i1 p4 #aed4 #ab ,op4 cit41 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #bbf4 #ac ,hist4 ,virginia1 ,john ,smith4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 p4 #abg4 #ad ,hist4 of ,travaile into ,virginia3 ,win4 ,strachey1 ,hakluyt ,society1 ,lond41 #ahdd1 vol4 ,,vi1 p4 #gc4 #ae ,hist4 ,louisiana1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #caj1 #caa4 #af ,op4 cit41 p4 #ahe4 ,,matting4 ,no class of articles of textile nature were more universally employed by the aborigines than mats of split cane1 rushes1 and reeds1 and our information1 derived from literature and from such remnants of the articles themselves as have been recovered from graves and caves1 is quite full and satisfactory4 ,mats are not so varied in form and character as are baskets1 but their uses were greatly diversified2 they served for carpeting1 seats1 hangings1 coverings1 and wrappings1 and they were extensively employed in permanent house construction1 and for temporary or movable shelters4 ,a few brief extracts will serve to indicate their use in various classes of construction by the tribes first encountered by the whites4 ,hariot says that the houses of the ,virginia ,indians-- ,are made of small poles made fast at the tops in rounde forme after the maner as is vsed in many arbories in our gardens of ,england1 in most townes couered with barkes1 and in some with artificiall mattes made of long rushes2 from the tops of the houses downe to the ground4#ag ,illustration3 ,,pl4 ,i4 ,,products ,,of ,,the ,,textile ,,art4 a1 ,openwork fish baskets of ,virginia ,indians2 b1 manner of weaving2 c1 basket strainer2 d1 quiver of rushes2 e1 mat of rushes4 ,it would appear from a study of the numerous illustrations of houses given by this author that the mats so often referred to were identical in construction with those still in use among the tribes of the upper ,mississippi and the far west4 ,the rushes are laid close together side by side and bound together at long intervals by cords intertwined across4 ,in e1 plate ,i1 is reproduced a small portion of a mat from ,hariot's engraving of the dead-house of the ,virginia ,indians1 which shows this method of construction4 ,the modern use of mats of this class in house construction is known by an example which ,i have seen represented in a small photograph1 taken about the year #ahfh1 and representing a ,chippewa village1 situated somewhere in the upper ,missouri valley1 probably not far from ,sioux ,city1 ,iowa4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,use of mats in an ,indian council 7after ,lafitau74 ,mats were used not only in and about the dwellings of the aborigines1 but it was a common practice to carry them from place to place to sleep on1 or for use as seats or carpeting in meetings or councils of ceremonious nature4 ,the latter use is illustrated in a number of the early accounts of the natives4 ,figure #b1 copied from ,lafitau1 serves to indicate the common practice4 ,the omnipresent sweat-house of the aborigines is thus described by ,smith3 ,sometimes they are troubled with dropsies1 swellings1 aches1 and such like diseases2 for cure whereof they build a ,stone in the forme of a ,doue-house with mats1 so close that a few coales therein covered with a pot1 will make the patient sweat extreamely4#ah ,bartram1 speaking of the ,seminoles1 states that the wide steps leading up to the canopied platform of the council house are covered with carpets or mats1 curiously woven of split canes dyed of various colours4#ai ,the use of mats in the mound country in very early times is described by ,joutel as follows3 ,their moveables are some bullocks' hides and goat skins well cured1 some mats close wove1 wherewith they adorn their huts1 and some earthen vessels which they are very skilful at making1 and wherein they boil their flesh or roots1 or sagamis1 which1 as has been said1 is their pottage4 ,they have also some small baskets made of canes1 serving to put in their fruit and other provisions4 ,their beds are made of canes1 raised #b or #c feet above the ground1 handsomely fitted with mats and bullocks' hides1 or goat skins well cured1 which serve them for feather beds1 or quilts and blankets2 and those beds are parted one from another by mats hung up4#bj ,the mats so much used for beds and carpets and for the covering of shelters1 houses1 etc41 were probably made of pliable materials such as rushes4 ,de la ,potherie illustrates their use as beds1#ba one end of the mat being rolled up for a pillow as shown in figure #c4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,use of mat in sleeping 7after ,de la ,potherie74 ,the sizes of mats were greatly varied2 the smallest were sufficient for seating only a single person1 but the largest were many yards in length1 the width being restricted to a few feet by the conditions of construction4 ,mats were woven in two or more styles4 ,where the strands or parts were uniform in size and rigidity they were simply interlaced1 but when one strong or rigid series was to be kept in place by a pliable series1 the latter were twisted about the former at the intersections as in ordinary twined weaving4 ,the heavy series of strands or parts were held together side by side by the intertwined strands placed far apart1 a common practice yet among native mat-makers4 ,much variety of character and appearance was given to the fabric by varying the order of the strands in intersection4 ,it was a common practice to interweave strands of different size1 shape1 or color1 thus producing borders and patterns of no little beauty4 ,du ,pratz thus mentions the use of dyes by the ,louisiana ,indians3 ,the women sometimes add to this furniture of the bed mats woven of cane1 dyed of #c colours1 which colours in the weaving are formed into various figures4#bb ,this is well illustrated in the mat from a rock shelter in ,tennessee1 later to be described1 and the ,indians of the east and north practiced the same art4 ,speaking of the ceremony of smoking the calumet among the ,iroquois1 ,de la ,potherie says3 ,the ceremony is held in a large cabin in winter and in summer in an open field4 ,the place being chosen1 it is surrounded with branches to shade the company4 ,in the center is spread a large mat of canes dyed in various colors1 which serves as a carpet4#bc ,frequent mention is made of the use of mats in burial4 ,two brief extracts will serve to illustrate this use4 ,butel-,dumont makes the following statement regarding tribes of the lower ,mississippi3 ,the ,paskagoulas and ,billoxis do not inter their chief when he dies1 but they dry the corpse with fire and smoke in such a way that it becomes a mere skeleton4 ,after it is reduced to this state they carry it to the temple 7for they have one as well as the ,natchez7 and put it in the place of its predecessor1 which they take from the spot it occupied and place it with the bodies of the other chiefs at the bottom of the temple1 where they are arranged one after the other1 standing upright like statues4 ,as for the newly deceased1 he is exposed at the entrance of the temple on a sort of altar or table made of cane and covered with a fine mat very neatly worked in red and yellow squares with the skin of the canes4#bd ,brackenridge#be says that a few years ago1 in the state of ,tennessee1 ,two human bodies were found in a copperas cave in a surprising state of preservation4 ,they were first wrapped up in a kind of blanket1 supposed to have been manufactured of the lint of nettles1 afterwards with dressed skins1 and then a mat of nearly #fj yards in length4 #ag ,a ,brief and ,true account of the ,new ,found ,land of ,virginia1 ,thomas ,hariot1 p4 #bd4 #ah ,a ,brief and ,true account of the ,new ,found ,land of ,virginia1 ,thomas ,hariot1 p4 #acg4 #ai ,william ,bartram's ,travels1 etc4 ,london1 #agib1 p4 #cjb4 #bj ,joutel1 in ,b4 ,f4 ,french's ,historical ,collections of ,louisiana4 ,new ,york1 #ahdf1 p4 #adi4 #ba ,hist4 de l',amr4 ,sept41 ,bacqueville de la ,potherie4 ,paris1 #agbb1 vol4 ,,iii4 ,plate opposite p4 #bd4 #bb ,hist4 ,louisiana1 ,du ,pratz4 ,english translation4 ,london1 #agfc1 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #bbg4 #bc ,hist4 de l',amr4 ,sept41 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #ag4 #bd ,mem4 sur la ,louisiane1 vol4 ,i1 pp4 #bdj-bda4 #be ,views of ,louisiana1 ,h4 ,m4 ,brackenridge1 #ahag1 p4 #agh4 ,,pliable ,,fabrics4 ,,development ,,of ,,spinning ,,and ,,weaving4 ,the use of simple strands or parts in textile art precedes the use of spun threads1 but the one use leads very naturally up to the other4 ,in employing rushes1 stems1 grasses1 etc41 the smaller strands were doubled to secure uniformity of size1 and when a number of parts were used they were combined into one by twisting or plaiting4 ,in time the advantage in strength and pliability of twisted strands came to be recognized1 and this led to the general utilization of fibrous substances1 and finally to the manufacture of suitable fibers by manipulating the bark of trees and plants4 ,spinning was probably not devised until the weaver's art had made considerable advance1 but its invention opened a new and broad field and led to the development of a magnificent industry4 ,semi-rigid fabrics served for a wide range of uses1 as already described1 but soft and pliable cloths for personal use and ornament were made possible only by the introduction of spinning4 ,on the arrival of the whites the native art was well advanced2 thread1 cordage1 and even ropes of considerable weight were made with a degree of uniformity and refinement that surprises us4 ,the finest threads with which ,i am acquainted are perhaps not as fine as our no4 #aj ordinary spool cotton thread1 but we are not justified in assuming that more refined work was not done4 ,what we have is only that which happened to be preserved through burial with the dead or by impression on the plastic surface of clay used in the arts4 ,the materials employed for spinning by the aborigines were greatly diversified4 ,through historical as well as through purely archeologic sources we learn that both vegetal and animal filaments and fibers were freely used4 ,the inner bark of the mulberry was a favorite material1 but other fibrous barks were utilized4 ,wild hemp1 nettles1 grasses1 and other like growths furnished much of the finer fibers4 ,the hackling was accomplished by means of the simplest devices1 such as pounding with hammers or sticks4 ,the hair and sinews of animals were frequently spun into threads and woven into cloth4 ,a few citations from early authors will indicate sufficiently for present purposes the methods of spinning and weaving employed by tribes which1 if not in all cases mound-builders1 were at least the neighbors and relatives of the mound-building ,indians4 ,,cloths4 ,the character of the woven articles is to a great extent indicated in the extracts which follow4 ,it evidently was not customary to weave piece goods1 but rather to make separate units of costumes1 furnishing1 etc41 for use without cutting1 fitting1 and sewing4 ,each piece was practically complete when it came from the frame or loom4 ,for clothing and personal use there were mantles1 shawls1 and cloaks to be worn over one or both shoulders or about the body as described by ,hariot1 ,smith1 the ,knight of ,elvas1 ,du ,pratz1 and others2 there were skirts fastened about the waist and drawn with an inserted cord or looped over a belt2 there were belts1 sashes1 garters1 shot pouches1 and bags4 ,for household use there were hangings1 covers for various articles1 and bedclothing2 there were nets for fishing and cords for angling4 ,some of these extracts describe the whole group of activities included in the practice of the art as well as the use of the products4 ,i have considered it preferable to quote as a unit all that is said on the subject by each author1 giving cross reference1 when necessary1 in discussing particular topics under other headings4 ,weaving among the ,indians of ,new ,jersey1 ,pennsylvania1 ,new ,york1 and the northeast is described by ,kalm1 ,de la ,potherie1 and others4 ,the following extracts are from ,kalm1 and will serve to indicate the status of the art over a wide area3 ,apocynum cannabinum was by the ,swedes called ,hemp of the ,indians2 and grew plentifully in old corn grounds1 in woods on hills1 and in high glades4 ,the ,swedes had given it the name of ,indian hemp1 because the ,indians formerly1 and even now1 apply it to the same purposes as the ,europeans do hemp2 for the stalk may be divided into filaments1 and is easily prepared4 ,when the ,indians were yet settled among the ,swedes1 in ,pensylvania and ,new ,jersey1 they made ropes of this apocynum1 which the ,swedes bought1 and employed them as bridles1 and for nets4 ,these ropes were stronger1 and kept longer in water1 than such as were made of common hemp4 ,the ,swedes commonly got fourteen yards of these ropes for one piece of bread4 ,many of the ,europeans still buy such ropes1 because they last so well4 ,the ,indians likewise make several other stuffs of their hemp4 ,on my journey through the country of the ,iroquese1 ,i saw the women employed in manufacturing this hemp4 ,they made use neither of spinning wheels nor distaffs1 but rolled the filaments upon their bare thighs1 and made thread and strings of them1 which they dyed red1 yellow1 black1 etc41 and afterwards worked them into stuffs1 with a great deal of ingenuity4 ,the plant is perennial1 which renders the annual planting of it altogether unnecessary4 ,out of the root and stalk of this plant1 when it is fresh1 comes a white milky juice1 which is somewhat poisonous4 ,sometimes the fishing tackle of the ,indians consists entirely of this hemp4 ,the ,europeans make no use of it1 that ,i know of4#bf ,in another place this author describes the weaving of bark fibers3 ,the ,direa palustris1 or ,mouse-wood1 is a little shrub which grows on hills1 towards swamps and marshes1 and was now in full blossom4 ,the ,english in ,albany call it ,leather-wood1 because its bark is as tough as leather4 ,the ,french in ,canada call it ,bois de ,plomb1 or ,leaden-wood because the wood itself is as soft and as tough as lead4 ,the bark of this shrub was made use of for ropes1 baskets1 etc41 by the ,indians1 whilst they lived among the ,swedes4 ,and it is really very fit for that purpose1 on account of its remarkable strength1 and toughness1 which is equal to that of the ,lime-tree bark4 ,the ,english and the ,dutch in many parts of ,north ,america1 and the ,french in ,canada1 employ this bark in all cases where we make use of ,lime-tree bark in ,europe4 ,the tree itself is very tough1 and you cannot easily separate its branches without the help of a knife3 some people employ the twigs for rods4#bg ,de la ,potherie1 who wrote at an earlier date than ,kalm1 says-- ,the women spin on their knees1 twisting the thread with the palm of the hand2 they make this thread1 which should rather be called twine 7fisselle71 into little balls4#bh ,hariot1 ,john ,smith1 and ,adair bear witness to the primitive practice of the art in ,virginia and the ,carolinas4 ,smith uses the following words3 ,betwixt their hands and thighes1 their women vse to spin1 the barkes of trees1 ,deere sinewes1 or a kinde of grasse they call ,pemmenaw1 of these they make a thread very even and readily4 ,this thread serveth for many vses4 ,as about their housing apparell1 as also they make nets for fishing1 for the quantitie as formally as ours4 ,they make also with it lines for angles4#bi ,the ,cherokees and other ,indians with whom ,adair came in contact preserved in their purity many of the ancient practices4 ,the following extracts are1 therefore1 of much importance to the historian of the textile art in ,america3 ,formerly1 the ,indians made very handsome carpets4 ,they have a wild hemp that grows about six feet high1 in open1 rich1 level lands1 and which usually ripens in ,july3 it is plenty on our frontier settlements4 ,when it is fit for use1 they pull1 steep1 peel1 and beat it2 and the old women spin it off the distaffs1 with wooden machines1 having some clay on the middle of them1 to hasten the motion4 ,when the coarse thread is prepared1 they put it into a frame about six feet square1 and instead of a shuttle1 they thrust through the thread with a long cane1 having a large string through the web1 which they shift at every second course of the thread4 ,when they have thus finished their arduous labour1 they paint each side of the carpet with such figures1 of various colours1 as their fruitful imaginations devise2 particularly the images of those birds and beasts they are acquainted with2 and likewise of themselves1 acting in their social1 and martial stations4 ,there is that due proportion and so much wild variety in the design1 that would really strike a curious eye with pleasure and admiration4 ,j4 ,w--t1 ,esq41 a most skilful linguist in the ,muskohge dialect1 assures me1 that time out of mind they passed the woof with a shuttle2 and they have a couple of threddles1 which they move with the hand so as to enable them to make good dispatch1 something after our manner of weaving4 ,this is sufficiently confirmed by their method of working broad garters1 sashes1 shot pouches1 broad belts1 and the like1 which are decorated all over with beautiful stripes and chequers4 ,the women are the chief1 if not the only1 manufacturers2 the men judge that if they performed that office1 it would exceedingly depreciate them4 99 99 99 ,in the winter season1 the women gather buffalo's hair1 a sort of coarse1 brown1 curled wool2 and having spun it as fine as they can1 and properly doubled it1 they put small beads of different colours upon the yarn1 as they work it1 the figures they work in those small webs1 are generally uniform1 but sometimes they diversify them on both sides4 ,the ,choktah weave shot-pouches which have raised work inside and outside4 ,they likewise make turkey feather blankets with the long feathers of the neck and breast of that large fowl--they twist the inner end of the feathers very fast into a strong double thread of hemp1 or the inner bark of the mulberry tree1 of the size and strength of coarse twine1 as the fibres are sufficiently fine1 and they work it in manner of fine netting4 ,as the feathers are long and glittering1 this sort of blankets is not only very warm1 but pleasing to the eye4#cj ,the extent and importance of the art among the ,gulf tribes are indicated by a number of early observers4 ,the ,knight of ,elvas speaks of the use of blankets by the ,indians1 #hc degrees west longitude1 and #cb degrees north latitude1 or near the central portion of ,georgia3 ,these are like shawls1 some of them are made from the inner barks of trees1 and others from a grass resembling nettle1 which1 by threading out1 becomes like flax4 ,the women use them for covering1 wearing one about the body from the waist downward1 and another over the shoulder1 with the right arm left free1 after the manner of the gypsies3 the men wear but one1 which they carry over their shoulders in the same way1 the loins being covered with a bragueiro of deer-skin1 after the fashion of the woolen breech-cloth that was once the custom of ,spain4 ,the skins are well dressed1 the color being given to them that is wished1 and in such perfection1 that1 when of vermilion1 they look like very fine red broadcloth1 and when black1 the sort in use for shoes1 they are of the purest4 ,the same hues are given to blankets4#ca ,at ,cutifachiqui similar fabrics were observed3 ,in the barbacoas were large quantities of clothing1 shawls of thread1 made from the barks of trees and others of feathers1 white gray1 vermilion and yellow1 rich and proper for winter4#cb ,the frequent mention of fabrics used by the ,indians for shawls1 mantles1 etc41 makes it plain that such were in very general use when the town of ,pacaha was captured1 and the ,spaniards clothed themselves with mantles1 cassocks1 and gowns made from these native garments4 ,everywhere woven shawls were a principal feature of the propitiatory gifts of the natives to the ,spaniards4 ,the extent of this manufacture of hempen garments by the ,indians of the lower ,mississippi is well indicated in the account of the adventures of the expedition on the western side of the ,mississippi at ,aminoga4 ,the ,spaniards undertook the construction of brigantines by means of which they hoped to descend the ,mississippi and to pass along the gulf coast to ,mexico4 ,a demand was made upon the natives for shawls to be used in the manufacture of sails1 and great numbers were brought4 ,native hemp and the ravelings of shawls were used for calking the boats4#cc ,what a novel sight must have been this first ,european fleet on the great river1 consisting of five brigantines impelled by sails of native manufacture6 ,it is worthy of note that in this region 7of the lower ,mississippi7 the ,spaniards saw shawls of cotton1 brought1 it was said1 from the west--probably the ,pueblo country1 as they were accompanied by objects that from the description may have been ornaments of turquois4#cd ,the following is from ,du ,pratz3 ,many of the women wear cloaks of the bark of the mulberry-tree1 or of the feathers of swans1 turkies1 or ,india ducks4 ,the bark they take from young mulberry shoots that rise from the roots of trees that have been cut down2 after it is dried in the sun they beat it to make all the woody part fall off1 and they give the threads that remain a second beating1 after which they bleach them by exposing them to the dew4 ,when they are well whitened they spin them about the coarseness of pack-thread1 and weave them in the following manner3 they plant two stakes in the ground about a yard and a half asunder1 and having stretched a cord from the one to the other1 they fasten their threads of bark double to this cord1 and then interweave them in a curious manner into a cloak of about a yard square with a wrought border round the edges4 99 99 99 ,the girls at the age of eight or ten put on a little petticoat1 which is a kind of fringe made of threads of mulberry bark4#ce ,this is illustrated farther on4 ,the manner of weaving in the middle and upper ,mississippi country is described by ,hunter1 who1 speaking of the ,osage ,indians and their neighbors1 says3 ,the hair of the buffalo and other animals is sometimes manufactured into blankets2 the hair is first twisted by hand1 and wound into balls4 ,the warp is then laid of a length to answer the size of the intended blanket1 crossed by three small smooth rods alternately beneath the threads1 and secured at each end to stronger rods supported on forks1 at a short distance above the ground4 ,thus prepared1 the woof is filled in1 thread by thread1 and pressed closely together1 by means of a long flattened wooden needle4 ,when the weaving is finished1 the ends of the warp and woof are tied into knots1 and the blanket is ready for use4 ,in the same manner they construct mats from flags and rushes1 on which1 particularly in warm weather1 they sleep and sit4#cf ,fabrics of various kinds were employed in burial1 although not generally made for that purpose4 ,the wrappings of dead bodies were often very elaborate1 and the consignment of these to tombs and graves where the conditions were favorable to preservation has kept them for long periods in a most perfect state4 ,by exhumation we have obtained most of our information on this subject4 ,our knowledge is1 however1 greatly increased by descriptions of such burial customs as were witnessed in early times4 ,extracts already given refer to the use of fabrics in mortuary customs4 ,many others could be cited but the following seems sufficient3 ,after the dead person has lain a day and a night in one of their hurdles of canes1 commonly in some out house made for that purpose1 those that officiate about the funeral go into the town1 and the first young men they meet withal1 that have blankets or match coats on1 whom they think fit for their turn1 they strip them from their backs1 who suffer them so to do without any resistance4 ,in these they wrap the dead bodies1 and cover them with two or three mats which the ,indians make of rushes or cane2 and1 last of all1 they have a long web of woven reeds or hollow canes1 which is the coffin of the ,indians1 and is brought round several times and tied fast at both ends1 which1 indeed1 looks very decent and well4 ,then the corps is brought out of the house into the orchard of peach trees1 where another hurdle is made to receive it1 about which comes all the relations and nation that the dead person belonged to1 besides several from other nations in alliance with them2 all which sit down on the ground upon mats spread there for that purpose4#cg ,,nets4 ,the manufacture and use of nets by natives in various parts of the country are recorded by early writers1 some of whom have already been quoted4 ,speaking of the ,iroquois ,de la ,potherie says3 ,the old men and those who can not or do not wish to go to war or the chase1 make nets and are fishers4 ,this is a plebian trade among them4 ,their nets are made of thread of nettles or of white wood1 the bark of which they make into thread by means of lye which renders it strong and pliable4#ch ,in another place the same author says3 ,the ,sauteurs1 who are beyond the ,missisakis1 take their name from a ,saut 7waterfall7 which flows from ,lake ,superior into ,lake ,huron by a great fall whose rapids are extremely violent4 ,these people are very skillful in fishery by which they obtain white fish as large as salmons4 ,they cross all these terrible rapids into which they cast a net like a sack1 a little more than half an ell in width by one in depth attached to a forked stick about #ae feet long4#ci ,a novel use of nets is recorded by this author as follows3 ,for taking pigeons in summer in nets1 they make a broad path in the woods and attach to two trees1 one on each side1 a large net made in the shape of a sack well opened4#dj ,du ,pratz1 speaking of the fishing nets of the ,louisiana ,indians1 states that they are meshed like ours and made of lime-tree bark2 the large fish are shot with arrows4#da ,,feather ,,work4 ,feather work was one of the most remarkable arts of the natives of ,mexico and other southern countries at the period of the conquest4 ,the feathers were sometimes woven in with the woof and sometimes applied to a network base after the fashion of embroidery4 ,rarely1 it may be imagined1 were either spun or unspun fabrics woven of feathers alone4 ,very pleasing specimens of ancient ,peruvian feather work are recovered from graves at ,ancon and elsewhere1 and the method of inserting the feathers is illustrated in the ,sixth ,annual ,report of the ,bureau of ,ethnology4#db ,in few instances has such work been recovered from mounds or burial places1 but there can be no doubt that the mound-building tribes were experts in this art4 ,frequent mention is made of the feather work of the natives by the earliest explorers of the ,mississippi valley1 and the character of the work may be gathered from the extracts already given and from those which follow4 ,john ,smith1 speaking of the feather work of the ,virginia ,indians1 says3 ,we haue seene some vse mantels made of ,turky feathers1 so prettily wrought and woven with threads that nothing could be discerned but the feathers4#dc ,lawson mentions a doctor of the ,santee nation who was warmly and neatly clad with a match coat1 made of turkies feathers1 which makes a pretty show1 seeming as if it was a garment of the deepest silk shag4#dd ,in another place the same author says3 ,their feather match coats are very pretty1 especially some of them1 which are made extraordinary charming1 containing several pretty figures wrought in feathers1 making them seem like a fine flower silk shag2 and when new and fresh1 they become a bed very well1 instead of a quilt4 ,some of another sort are made of hair1 raccoon1 bever1 or squirrel skins1 which are very warm4 ,others again are made of the greenpart of the skin of a mallard's head1 which they sew perfectly well together1 their thread being either the sinews of a deer divided very small1 or silk grass4 ,when these are finished1 they look very finely1 though they must needs be very troublesome to make4#de ,du ,pratz thus describes the art in ,louisiana3 ,if the women know how to do this kind of work they make mantles either of feathers or woven of the bark of the mulberry tree4 ,we will describe their method of doing this4 ,the feather mantles are made on a frame similar to that on which the peruke makers work hair2 they spread the feathers in the same manner and fasten them on old fish nets or old mantles of mulberry bark4 ,they are placed1 spread in this manner1 one over the other and on both sides2 for this purpose small turkey feathers are used2 women who have feathers of swans or ,india ducks1 which are white1 make these feather mantles for women of high rank4#df ,butel-,dumont describes feather work of the natives of ,louisiana briefly as follows3 ,they the women also1 without a spinning wheel or distaff1 spin the hair or wool of cattle of which they make garters and ribands2 and with the thread which they obtain from lime-tree bark1 they make a species of mantle1 which they cover with the finest swan's feathers fastened one by one to the material4 ,a long task indeed1 but they do not count this trouble and time when it concerns their satisfaction4#dg ,,embroidery4 ,the use of beads1 quills1 and other articles to beautify the surfaces of fabrics and skins was as common1 no doubt1 with the ancient as with the modern native inhabitants of the ,mississippi valley4 ,in discoursing on the dress of native women of ,louisiana ,butel-,dumont says that the young girls wear-- 99 99 99 a sort of network attached to the waist and terminating in a point1 99 99 99 both sides of which are ornamented with ribbons of thread made from lime-tree fiber1 also made into network4 ,from the waist to the knees hang several cords of the same thread1 to the ends of which are attached claws of birds of prey1 such as eaglets1 crows1 etc41 so that when the girls walk these make a rattling noise which is highly pleasing to them4 ,this kind of ornament does not illy resemble those nets which we use to cover our horses to protect them from flies4#dh ,from ,du ,pratz we have the following3 ,the women make also designs in embroidery with the skin of the porcupine2 they remove for this purpose the skin of this animal1 which is white and black2 they split it very fine to use as embroidery thread1 dye a part of the white skin a red color1 another part yellow1 and a third part is left white2 they usually work on black skin1 and dye the black a reddish brown2 but if they work on bark1 the black threads remain the same4 ,their designs are very similar to some of those found in ,gothic architecture2 they are composed of straight lines which form right angles at their conjunction1 which is commonly called the corner of a square4 ,they also work similar designs on mantles and coverings which they make with the bark of the mulberry tree4#di ,john ,smith testifies to the same practices in ,virginia as shown in the following lines3 ,for their apparell1 they are sometimes covered with the skinnes of wilde beasts1 which in ,winter are dressed with the hayre1 but in ,sommer without4 ,the better sort use large mantels of ,deare skins1 not much differing in fashion from the ,irish mantels4 ,some imbrodered with white beads1 some with ,copper1 other painted after their manner4 99 99 99 ,we haue seene some use mantels made of ,turky feathers1 so prettily wrought and woven with threads that nothing could be discerned but the feathers4#ej #bf ,travels in ,north ,america1 ,peter ,kalm4 ,english translation1 ,london1 #agga1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #aca1 #acb4 #bg ,ibid41 pp4 #adh-adi4 #bh ,hist4 de l',amrique1 ,sept41 vol4 ,,iii1 p4 #cd4 #bi ,hist4 ,virginia4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 pp4 #acb-acc4 #cj ,history of the ,american ,indians4 ,london1 #agge1 pp4 #dbb1 #dbc4 #ca ,narratives of the ,career of ,hernando de ,soto in the ,conquest of ,florida as told by a ,knight of ,elvas4 ,translated by ,buckingham ,smith4 ,new ,york1 #ahff1 p4 #eb4 #cb ,ibid41 p4 #fc4 #cc ,narratives of the ,career of ,hernando de ,soto in the ,conquest of ,florida as told by a ,knight of ,elvas4 ,translated by ,buckingham ,smith4 ,new ,york1 #ahff1 p4 #afj-gj4 #cd ,ibid41 p4 #afd4 #ce ,hist4 ,louisiana1 op4 cit41 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #bc4 #cf ,memoirs of a captive among the ,indians of ,north ,america1 ,john ,d4 ,hunter4 ,london1 #ahbc1 pp4 #bhi-bij4 #cg ,hist4 of ,carolina1 ,john ,lawson4 ,london1 #agad2 reprint1 ,raleigh1 ,n4 ,c41 #ahjj1 pp4 #bic-bid4 #ch ,histoire de l',amrique ,septentrionale1 ,bacqueville de la ,potherie1 vol4 ,,iii1 pp4 #cc-cd4 #ci ,ibid41 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #fj-fa4 #dj ,ibid41 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #hj4 #da ,histoire de la ,louisiane1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #agi-ahj4 #db ,the ,textile ,art1 ,w4 ,h4 ,holmes1 p4 #bca4 #dc ,hist4 ,virginia1 ,john ,smith4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 vol4 ,i1 p4 #acj4 #dd ,hist4 ,carolina1 ,john ,lawson4 ,raleigh1 #ahfj1 p4 #cg4 #de ,ibid41 pp4 #caa-cab4 #df ,hist4 de la ,louisiane1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #aia-aib4 #dg ,memoire sur la ,louisiane4 ,paris1 #agec1 vol4 ,i1 pp4 #aed-aee4 #dh ,ibid41 vol1 ,i1 pp4 #ach-aci4 #di ,historie de la ,louisiane1 vol4 ,,ii1 pp4 #ahd-ahe4 #ej ,hist4 ,virginia4 ,richmond1 #ahai1 vol4 ,i1 pp4 #abi-acj4 ,,fossil ,,fabrics4 ,,modes ,,of ,,preservation4 ,contenting myself with the preceding references to the practice of the arts of spinning and weaving in the various regions of the country1 ,i pass on to an examination of the archeologic material which includes traces or remnants of the weaver's work from all sections of the country4 ,as already mentioned1 there are a number of ways in which textile articles or data relating to them may be preserved in such manner as to permit examination and study4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,ii ,,mat ,,of4 ,,split ,,cane4 ,through charring by the use of fire in burial rites1 and by contact with copper or preservative salts in burial caves1 numerous pieces of cloth and parts of costumes have come into our possession4 ,one of the most fertile sources of information has but recently been made available4 ,the ancient potter employed woven fabrics in handling1 finishing1 and decorating pottery4 ,from mounds1 graves1 and dwelling sites1 all over the country1 vases and sherds are found covered with impressions of these fabrics1 and so well preserved that by taking casts in clay or wax entirely satisfactory restorations are made4 ,something may be learned from the recovery of implements of spinning and weaving1 but up to this time the only relics secured are a few rather rude spindle whorls4 ,i shall present in the following paragraphs such portions of the available data as seem calculated to illustrate briefly and clearly the nature of the ancient art4 ,,fabrics ,,from ,,caves ,,and ,,shelters4 ,at an early date in the history of the country reports began to find their way into print relating to the discovery of mortuary fabrics in caverns and shelters4 ,extracts from some of these publications may be given4 ,from the writing of ,john ,haywood historian of ,tennessee1 we have the following3 ,in the spring of the year #ahaa1 was found in a copperas cave in ,warren county1 in ,west ,tennessee1 about #ae miles southwest from ,sparta1 and #bj from ,mc,minnville1 the bodies of two human beings1 which had been covered by the dirt or ore from which copperas was made4 ,one of these persons was a male1 the other a female4 ,they were interred in baskets1 made of cane1 curiously wrought1 and evidencing great mechanic skill4 ,they were both dislocated at the hip joint1 and were placed erect in the baskets1 with a covering made of cane to fit the baskets in which they were placed4 ,the flesh of these persons was entire and undecayed1 of a brown dryish colour1 produced by time1 the flesh having adhered closely to the bones and sinews4 ,around the female1 next her body1 was placed a well dressed deer skin4 ,next to this was placed a rug1 very curiously wrought1 of the bark of a tree and feathers4 ,the bark seemed to have been formed of small strands well twisted4 ,around each of these strands1 feathers were rolled1 and the whole woven into a cloth of firm texture1 after the manner of our common coarse fabrics4 ,this rug was about three feet wide1 and between six and seven feet in length4 ,the whole of the ligaments thus framed of bark were completely covered with feathers1 forming a body of about one eighth of an inch in thickness1 the feathers extending about one quarter of an inch in length from the strand to which they were confined4 ,the appearance was highly diversified by green1 blue1 yellow and black1 presenting different shades of colour when reflected upon by the light in different positions4 ,the next covering was an undressed deer skin1 around which was rolled1 in good order1 a plain shroud manufactured after the same order as the one ornamented with feathers4 ,this article resembled very much in its texture the bags generally used for the purpose of holding coffee exported from ,havanna to the ,united ,states4 ,the female had in her hand a fan formed of the tail feathers of a turkey4 ,the points of these feathers were curiously bound by a buckskin string1 well dressed1 and were thus closely bound for about one inch from the points4 ,about three inches from the point they were again bound1 by another deer skin string1 in such a manner that the fan might be closed and expanded at pleasure4 99 99 99 ,the cave in which they were found1 abounded in nitre1 copperas1 alum1 and salts4 ,the whole of this covering1 with the baskets1 was perfectly sound1 without any marks of decay4#ea ,there was also a scoop net made of bark thread2 a mockasin made of the like materials2 a mat of the same materials1 enveloping human bones1 were found in saltpetre dirt1 six feet below the surface4 ,the net and other things mouldered on being exposed to the sun4#eb ,in the year #ahae a remarkably interesting set of mortuary fabrics was recovered from a saltpeter cave near ,glasgow1 ,kentucky4 ,a letter from ,samuel ,l4 ,mitchell1 published by the ,american ,antiquarian ,society1 contains the following description of the condition of the human remains and of the nature of its coverings3 ,the outer envelope of the body is a deer skin1 probably dried in the usual way1 and perhaps softened before its application1 by rubbing4 ,the next covering is a deer skin1 whose hair had been cut away by a sharp instrument1 resembling a hatter's knife4 ,the remnant of the hair1 and the gashes in the skin1 nearly resemble the sheared pelt of beaver4 ,the next wrapper of cloth is made of twine doubled and twisted4 ,but the thread does not appear to have been formed by the wheel1 nor the web by the loom4 ,the warp and filling seemed to have been crossed and knotted by an operation like that of the fabricks of the northwest coast1 and of the ,sandwich islands4 99 99 99 ,the innermost tegument is a mantle of cloth like the preceding2 but furnished with large brown feathers1 arranged and fastened with great art1 so as to be capable of guarding the living wearer from wet and cold4 ,the plumage is distinct and entire1 and the whole bears a near similitude to the feathery cloaks now worn by the nations of the northwestern coast of ,america4#ec ,the ,bureau of ,ethnology had the good fortune to secure recently a number of representative pieces of burial fabrics of the classes mentioned in the preceding extracts1 and somewhat detailed descriptions of these will sufficiently illustrate the art as practiced by the early inhabitants of the middle portions of the country4 ,the relics which have come into the possession of the ,bureau were obtained in #ahhe by ,mr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,mc,gill from a rock shelter on ,clifty or ,cliff ,creek1 ,morgan county1 ,tennessee4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,w4 ,emmert1 through whom they were procured1 reports that they were found in a grave #c feet below the surface and in earth strongly charged with niter and perhaps other preservative salts4 ,the more pliable cloths1 together with skeins of vegetal fiber1 a dog's skull1 some bone tools1 and portions of human bones and hair1 were rolled up in a large split-cane mat4 ,the grave was situated about as shown in the accompanying section 7figure #d74 ,a shelf some #bj feet in width1 with depressed floor1 occurs about midway between the creek bed and the slightly overhanging ledge above1 the whole height being estimated at #cjj feet4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,iii ,,mantle ,,or ,,skirt ,,of ,,light-,,colored ,,stuff4 ,the mat1 a very excellent piece of work1 is #f feet #f inches by #c feet #d inches4 ,by reference to plate ,,ii it will be seen that it is neatly and artistically made and quite well preserved4 ,the strands are from one-third to three-sixteenths of an inch in width and are even on the edges and smoothly dressed on the back4 ,the hard1 glistening outer surface of the cane is light in color and the dressed surface is dark naturally or artificially1 and the weaving is so managed that a tasteful border and a checkered effect are produced by alternately exposing the light and dark sides4 ,this piece probably very fairly represents the split-cane work of the whole cane-producing region4 ,a similar piece of work from the gulf coast is illustrated in figure #ab4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4--,section of cliff showing position of grave shelter4 ,inclosed with the mat were three pieces of fabric of especial interest1 all pertaining1 no doubt1 to the costume of the person buried4 ,the piece of cloth shown in plate ,,iii probably served as a mantle or skirt and is #df inches long by #bd wide4 ,it is of coarse1 pliable1 yellowish-gray stuff1 woven in the twined style so common all over ,america4 ,the fiber was doubtless derived from the native hemp1 and the strands are neatly twisted and about the size of average wrapping cord4 ,the warp strands1 #bd inches in length1 extend across the piece2 and on the left margin1 as seen in the illustration1 they are looped for the passage of a gathering string1 while on the left they have been cut to form a short fringe4 ,the opposing series 7the woof strands7 have been passed through with the length of the cloth in pairs1 which are twisted half around at each intersection1 inclosing the web strands in alternating pairs as shown in detail in figure #e4 ,these twined strands are placed three-eights of an inch apart1 the web being so close that the fabric is but slightly open4 ,the twined strands are carried back and forth in groups of four as shown at the ends in the plate1 and are knotted as illustrated in the figure4 ,a piece of fabric of much interest is presented in plate ,,iv4 ,it may be an unfinished garment of the class shown in the preceding illustration1 but it is more likely a complete skirt1 the narrow woven band with its gathering string serving as a belt and the long fringe being the skirt4 ,the length at the gathered edge is #cd inches1 and the pendant length is #bj inches4 ,the material and the weaving are the same as in the piece of cloth already described1 although the work is somewhat coarser4 ,a detailed study of the border is given in figure #f1 the vertical series of threads being pulled apart to show more distinctly the manner of combination4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4--,portion of mantle showing manner of weaving4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--;,analysis of the weaving of fringed skirt4 ,threads natural size4 ,the two pieces just described would seem to correspond pretty closely with the garments formerly worn by women and girls of the lower ,mississippi country1 as illustrated by ,du ,pratz in a plate facing page #caj1 volume ,,ii1 of his ,histoire de la ,louisiane4 ,his plate is reproduced in figure #g4 ,the following are translations of his descriptions of the garments delineated3 ,the women in warm weather have only a half ell of limbourg1 with which they are covered2 they fold this cloth around the body and are well clothed from the waist to the knees2 when they have no limbourg they use in the same way a deer skin4#ed4 ,when the girls reach the age of eight or nine years they are clothed from the waist to the ankles with a fringe of threads of mulberry bark1 fastened to a band ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,iv ,,fringed ,,skirt4 which is attached below the abdomen2 there is also another band above the abdomen which meets the first at the back2 between the two the body is covered in front by a network which is held there by the bands1 and at the back there are merely two large cords1 each having a tassel4#ee ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4--;,former costumes of woman and girl in ,louisiana 7after ,du ,pratz74 ,of equal interest to the preceding is the badly frayed bag shown in plate ,v4 ,it is #bj inches in length and #ac inches in depth4 ,the style of weaving is the same as that of the two preceding examples2 a peculiar open effect is produced by the rotting out of certain strands of dark color1 which were arranged in pairs alternating with eight lighter threads4 ,the construction of the border or rim of this bag is quite remarkable4 ,as shown in figure #h1 the upper ends of the vertical strands are gathered in slightly twisted groups of four and carried up free for about two inches1 when they are brought together and plaited with remarkable neatness into a string border4 ,as if to convey to the curious investigator of modern times a complete knowledge of their weavers' art1 the friends of the dead deposited with the body not only the fabrics worn during life but a number of skeins of the fiber from which the fabrics were probably made4 ,this fiber has been identified as that of the ,cannabis sativa1 or wild hemp4 ,two of the skeins are shown in plate ,v4 ,the presence of these unworked materials makes it probable that the individual burned was a female1 for the distaff and the loom have been and are universal emblems of the practical enslavement of that sex4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,border of bag4 ,a small but very instructive group of burial fabrics is preserved in the ,national ,museum4 ,these specimens were found with a desiccated body in #ahgg in a cave #h miles from ,mammoth cave1 ,kentucky4 ,they consist of a number of bags and other articles woven in the usual styles of bast and hemp4 ,nearly all of the articles are worn or fragmentary1 but the fiber is wonderfully preserved and the original colors are as fresh as if the burial had taken place but yesterday4 ,there are three wide-mouthed1 shallow bags1 resembling the one from ,tennessee illustrated in plate ,v4 ,the largest is #cd inches long when closed1 and #ae inches deep4 ,both web and woof are of bast4 ,there is a border of open work bound by a plaited band as seen in figure #h1 and the manner of weaving is identical with that shown in that figure4 ,the second bag is #bb inches long and #af deep4 ,the web is of bast1 the woof of hemp4 ,the smaller specimen is #ad by #i inches and is made exclusively of hemp1 and is thus much more pliable than the others4 ,the small remnant of a larger bag shows a web of heavy1 plaited bast strands resembling the specimen impressed on pottery and shown in a1 plate ,,ix4 ,besides these pieces there is a bit of heavy1 compactly woven stuff1 resembling the broad part of a sling1 which shows traces of a geometric pattern1 and a piece of flattish rope #ab feet long and #ab inches broad plaited very neatly of hempen twine4 ,among a number of cave relics from ,kentucky donated to the ,museum by ,mr4 ,francis ,klett1 are some textile articles4 ,among these is a sandal or moccasin woven or plaited very neatly of bast4 ,it is shown in figure #i4 ,prof4 ,f4 ,w4 ,putnam and other explorers of these caves have obtained numerous textile articles of interest4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,v ,,frayed ,,bag ,,and ,,skeins ,,of ,,hemp ,,fiber4 ,,charred ,,remains ,,of ,,fabrics ,,from ,,mounds4 ,that the well-preserved fabrics just illustrated represent fairly the textile work of the mound-builders is practically demonstrated by the evidence furnished by the mounds themselves4 ,from hundreds of sources come the same story2 and it is not necessary here to enter into any elaborate discussion of the subject or to multiply illustrations4 ,i present in plates ,,vi and ,,vii specimens of mound fabrics which1 since they were burned with the dead1 undoubtedly formed part of the clothing of the living or were wrappings of articles deposited with the bodies4 ,these coarse cloths may be considered as fairly representing the weaving of the mound-builders4 ,there are among them some finer examples of weaving than those obtained from the caves and shelters of ,tennessee and ,kentucky1 but there is nothing specifically different in material or methods of combination1 and there is nothing whatever to suggest a higher stage of culture than that of the historic ,indian4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4--,sandal or moccasin from a ,kentucky cave4 ,the fiber is quite fine and is more probably of hemp than of the bark of trees4 ,the strands are generally well twisted and even1 the twist being in most cases to the right1 or as if twisted on the thigh with a downward movement of the right-hand1 the thread being held in the left4 ,as in the case of cave fabrics as well as the work of the modern peoples of the region1 the weaving is nearly all in the twined style1 of which there are two varieties2 one in which each strand of the web is in turn inclosed simply by the woof twisted in pairs1 and the other in which alternate pairs of the web strands are inclosed by the twined pairs of the woof4 ,cloths woven in the first method are often quite close1 as the woof threads are readily pressed or pounded down on one another entirely hiding the web strands1 giving a fabric of much compactness and strength4 ,the second variety is usually somewhat open and net-like1 and very often the pairs of twined woof strands are placed far apart1 as shown in several of the illustrations given in this paper4 ,the finest mesh observed is in the first of these styles1 and includes about twenty intersections to the inch4 ,from the ,ohio mounds also there are examples of plain as well as of diagonal interlacing4 ,in appearance the cloth is much the same as that done in the twined style4 ,in a few cases a border or selvage of very simple construction is seen4 ,a looped margin for the passage of a gathering cord is common4 ,in plate ,,vi a number of bits of charred cloth are shown2 being quite black the camera fails to give them with clearness1 but the drawings presented in plate ,,vii serve to make clear all details of the strands and their combination4 ,the charring has taken place in cremating the dead1 in the burning of offerings or through accidental subjection to heat4 ,in some cases very considerable portions of the cloth are found1 but it is usually in a very fragile state and little has been preserved4 ,specimens preserved in this way are obtained from a large area1 including the ,ohio and a large portion of the ,mississippi valleys4 ,,fabrics ,,preserved ,,by ,,contact ,,with ,,copper4 ,the preservation of woven textures through association in burials with implements or other articles of copper is of common occurrence4 ,our museums contain many examples of copper celts retaining on their surfaces portions of cloth so well preserved that the fibers retain much of their original strength as well as color4 ,in plate ,,viii three examples are shown from a mound near ,davenport1 ,iowa1 and a fourth from a mound near ,savannah1 ,georgia4 ,the fabrics on a and b are of the twined style and1 although occurring #hjj miles apart1 are identical in every respect4 ,the cloth on c is very closely woven and has the appearance of simple interlacing4 ,the finest piece of work that has come to my notice is a bit of cloth from a mound in ,pike county1 ,ohio4 ,it has from thirty-five to forty strands to the inch1 and looks much like coarse twilled goods4 ,it is woven in the twined style1 however1 and is therefore of native origin4 ,it was preserved by contact with a large number of copper beads1 four of which are shown in the cut1 figure #aj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,fine1 closely woven cloth preserved by contact with copper beads4 ,traces of basketry are rarely preserved either by charring or by contact with copper4 ,matting is occasionally preserved in these ways4 ,figure #aa illustrates a piece of rush matting found fixed to the surface of a bit of copper in a mound near ,augusta1 ,georgia4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,vi ,,charred ,,cloth ,,from ,,mounds ,,in ,,ohio4 ,the weaving of the hair of many species of quadrupeds1 the buffalo1 the opossum1 the rabbit1 etc41 is noted by a number of authors1 and a few specimens of haircloth have been recovered from mounds4 ,mr4 ,henry ,r4 ,howland found in a mound near ,alton1 ,illinois1 two varieties of cloth preserved by contact with a copper ornament representing a turtle-shell2 they are described as follows3 ,closely fitting over the outer surface of the copper shell is1 first1 a woven cloth of a vegetable fibre1 similar in its general character to the outer matting above described1 but of a stronger and better preserved fibre1 apparently more like that which forms the woven coating of the ,davenport axes4 ,this is covered in turn with a softer1 finer fabric1 now of a dark-brown color1 formed of twisted strands1 laid or matted closely together1 though apparently not woven4 ,the material of which these strands are formed proves1 under microscopic examination1 to be animal hair4#ef ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--,small portion of rush matting preserved by contact with copper4 ,an illustration of ancient split cane matting is presented in figure #ab4 ,the specimen was obtained from ,petite ,anse island1 near ,vermilion bay1 southern coast of ,louisiana1 and a photograph was presented to the ,smithsonian ,institution in #ahff1 by ,j4 ,f4 ,cleu4 ,the following description1 as given by ,prof4 ,joseph ,henry1 appears on the label attached to the specimen3 ,this fragment of matting was found near the surface of the salt1 and about #b feet above it were remains of tusks and bones of a fossil elephant4 ,the peculiar interest in regard to the specimen is in its occurrence in situ #b feet below the elephant remains1 and about #ad feet below the surface of the soil1 thus showing the existence of mart on the island prior to the deposit in the soil of the fossil elephant4 ,the material consists of the outer bark of the common southern cane 7,arundinaria macrosperma71 and has been preserved for so long a period both by its silicious character and the strongly saline condition of the soil4 ,,fabrics ,,impressed ,,on ,,pottery4 ,it was a common practice among the aborigines to employ woven fabrics in the construction and ornamentation of earthenware4 ,impressions were thus left on the clay1 and by baking these were rendered as lasting as if engraved on stone4 ,from no other source do we obtain so wide a range of fabrics4 ,the fabric-marked vases and sherds are obtained from mounds1 graves1 and village sites all over the country4 ,there is not a state within the ,mississippi or ,atlantic drainage that does not furnish some example of the preservation of native fabric impressions on earthenware4 ,the perfection with which every character of these textures is preserved is well shown in a number of the figures here introduced4 ,a somewhat extended study of this subject was published in the ,third ,annual ,report of the ,bureau of ,ethnology1 and illustrations of nearly all the styles of weaving were given4 ,as indicated by subsequent investigations1 a number of slight inaccuracies of analysis and drawing occur in that paper1 but they are of such minor importance that detailed correction is unnecessary4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,split-cane matting from ,petite ,anse island1 ,louisiana4 ,it would seem that imprints of cloth woven in the plain interlaced style appear to be quite rare1 although it is difficult1 from the impressions on clay1 to distinguish this from other forms when the threads are closely impacted4 ,in somewhat rare cases the interlacing is so arranged and alternated as to give diagonal effects as in a specimen shown in figure #ac4 ,these effects are peculiar to the interlaced fabrics1 not being produced in twined or netted work4 ,it has been supposed that vessels of clay were often modeled in baskets1 and that the native earthenware preserved numerous impressions of baskets4 ,on closer analysis these impressions turn out to be the application of pliable cloths1 or of cords singly or in groups1 or of stamps covered with textiles or having geometric textile-like patterns engraved on them4 ,i can not recall a single example from eastern ,united ,states in which it is entirely clear that the clay vessel was modeled in a basket4 ,the impressions of basket work occasionally seen are only partial1 having been applied after the vessel was practically finished4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,vii ,,drawings ,,of ,,charred ,,fabric ,,from ,,mounds4 ,i present in figure #ac1 a small earthen vessel from a mound in ,north ,carolina1 the entire exterior surface of which is marked with a fabric1 a pliable cloth or bag woven in the twined styled4 ,the impressions are not the result of a single application of the texture1 but consist of several disconnected imprintings as if the hand or a paddle covered with cloth had been used in handling the vessel or in imparting a desired finish to the surface4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--;,fabric-marked vase from a mound in ,north ,carolina4 ,specimens of diagonal fabrics1 restored from potsherds1 are given in figures #ad and #ae4 ,the first is a very neatly woven diagonal from the ancient pottery of ,polk county1 ,tennessee4 ,two series of cords have been interwoven at right angles to each other1 but so arranged as to produce the diagonal effect4 ,one series of the cords is fine and well twisted1 the other coarser and very slightly twisted4 ,the second is a piece of matting restored from the impression on a small piece of pottery collected in ,alabama4 ,it was probably made of rushes or heavy blades of grass4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--;,diagonal fabric1 ancient pottery of ,tennessee4 ,twined weaving prevails in the fabrics impressed on pottery as in those from all other aboriginal sources4 ,an example of the simplest form1 obtained from a small fragment of pottery found in ,polk county1 ,tennessee1 is shown in figure #af4 ,two series of threads are interwoven at right angles1 the warp being arranged in pairs and the woof singly4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--;,fabric from the ancient pottery of ,alabama4 ,at each intersection the pairs of warp threads are twisted half around upon themselves1 inclosing the woof threads and holding them quite firmly1 so that the open net-like effect is well preserved even under strain or in long continued use4 ,there are many varieties of this form of fabric resulting from differences in size and spacing of the threads4 ,these differences are well brought out in the succeeding figures4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee4 ,in figure #ag we have a characteristic example of this fabric1 obtained from a fragment of pottery from a mound at ,sevierville1 ,tennessee4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,viii ,,copper ,,celts ,,with ,,remnants ,,of ,,cloth4 ,the impression is quite perfect4 ,the cords are somewhat uneven1 and seem to have been only moderately well twisted4 ,they were probably made of hemp fiber4 ,it will be observed that the threads of the web are placed at regular intervals1 while those of the woof are irregularly placed4 ,it may be noticed that in one case the woof has not been doubled1 the single thread having1 as a consequence1 exactly the same relation to the opposing series as corresponding threads in simple interlacing4 ,the impression1 of which this is only a part1 indicates that the cloth used in shaping the vessel was considerably distorted when applied to the soft clay4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--,twined fabric from ancient salt vessel1 ,illinois4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,twined fabric from ancient salt vessel1 ,illinois4 ,nowhere else are found so many fine impressions of fabrics on clay vessels as in the ancient salt-making localities of the ,mississippi valley4 ,the huge bowls or vats used by the primitive salt-maker have generally been modeled in coarse1 open fabrics1 or have had cloths impressed upon them for ornament4 ,in figures #ah and #ai fine examples of these impressions are given4 ,the latter engraving illustrates a specimen in which every detail is perfectly preserved4 ,only a small portion of the original is shown in the cut4 ,it is noticeable that the cords are quite heavy and well twisted1 although the spacing is somewhat irregular4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--,twined fabric from a piece of clay1 ,arkansas4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee4 ,the example given in figure #bj1 impressed on a fragment of clay from ,arkansas1 has an ornamental border produced by looping the cords of the web1 which seem to have been five in number1 each one passing over four others before recrossing the frame4 ,a specimen showing a somewhat different border is given in figure #ba4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,missouri4 ,the interesting specimen illustrated in figure #bb was obtained from a small fragment of pottery found in ,ripley county1 ,missouri4 ,the combination of the two series of strands clearly indicates the type of fabric1 the twisted cords of the woof being placed very far apart4 ,the warp is of braid formed by plaiting strands of untwisted fiber1 probably bast4 ,all the details are shown in the most satisfactory manner in the clay cast4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,carter county1 ,tennessee4 ,in figure #bc we have a similar fabric closely woven or impacted4 ,i have made the drawing to show fillets of fiber appearing at the ends2 these do not appear in the impression4 ,it is highly probable1 however1 that these fillets are plaited bands1 as in the preceding example4 ,they are wide and flat1 giving somewhat the effect of basket-work of splints or rushes4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--,twined fabric from ancient pottery1 ,tennessee4 ,another variety of the twined fabrics1 distinguished by peculiarities in the combinations of the threads1 is illustrated in figures #bd and #be4 ,the threads of the warp are arranged in pairs as in the specimens already described1 but are twisted in such a way as to inclose two of the opposing series instead of one1 each succeeding pair of warp threads taking up alternate pairs of the woof threads4 ,figure #be is from a small piece of pottery exhumed from a mound on ,fain island1 ,jefferson county1 ,tennessee4 ,the threads of the woof are quite close together1 those of the web being far apart4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4--,twined fabric1 with patterns1 ,ohio valley4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--,net from ancient pottery1 ,district of ,columbia4 ,that the native love of decoration had a marked influence on the weavers' art in its simplest and rudest as well as higher forms is well evinced even in the meager vestiges brought to light by researches in the mounds4 ,decorative borders and fanciful combinations of strands are shown in some of the preceding cuts1 and figure #bf1 copied from a pottery fragment obtained in the ,ohio valley1 indicates a more ambitious attempt at embellishment4 ,the fabric was evidently of ornate design and the execution excellent4 ,illustration3 ,,bureau ,,of ,,ethnology ,,thirteenth ,,annual ,,report ,,pl4 ,,ix ,,bits ,,of ,,fabric-,,marked ,,pottery1 ,,with ,,clay ,,casts ,,of ,,same ,plate ,,ix is intended to convey a clear notion of the nature and appearance of fabric-marked pottery and of the manner of securing positive impressions in clay4 ,three bits of pottery from ,illinois are placed at the left1 and the three casts appear at the right4 ,all illustrate open fabrics of comparatively simple pattern done in the characteristic twined style4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--,net from ancient pottery1 ,north ,carolina4 ,nets were in use by the ,indians of ,florida and ,virginia at the time of the discovery1 and the ancient pottery of the ,atlantic states has preserved impressions of innumerable specimens4 ,the piece shown in figure #bg is from a small fragment of pottery picked up in the ,district of ,columbia4 ,the impression is so perfect that the twist of the cord and the form of the knot may be seen with ease4 ,most of the examples from this locality are of much finer cord and have a less open mesh than the specimen illustrated4 ,the net illustrated in figure #bh is from a specimen of ,north ,carolina pottery4 ,netting of this class was still in use among the natives of the ,chesapeake region when the ,english colonies were founded4 ,the lesson of the prehistoric textile art of eastern ,united ,states is simple and easily read1 and goes far to round out the story of native occupation and culture4 ,colonial records furnish definite knowledge of the woven fabrics and weaving of the nations first encountered by the whites4 ,graves1 mounds1 and caves give us an insight into the pre-,columbian status of the art1 and evidence furnished by associated industries which happen to echo features of the textile art contribute to our information4 ,charred cloths from the great mounds are identical in material1 combination of parts1 and texture with the fabrics of the simple savage4 ,cloths preserved by contact with copper implements and ornaments characteristic of the art of the builders of the mounds do not differ in any way from the humble work of the historic peoples4 ,all tell the same story of a simple1 primitive culture1 hardly advanced beyond the grade separating the savage from the barbarous condition4 #ea ,nat4 and ,abor4 ,hist1 of ,tenn41 ,john ,haywood4 ,nashville1 #ahbc1 pp4 #afc-afe4 #eb ,ibid41 p4 #fb4 #ec ,trans4 and ,coll4 ,amer4 ,antiq4 ,soc4 ,worcester1 #ahbj1 vol4 #a1 pp4 #cah1 #cai4 #ed ,histoire de la ,louisiane4 ,du ,pratz4 ,paris1 #ageh1 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #aia4 #ee ,histoire de la ,louisiane1 ,du ,pratz4 ,paris1 #ageh1 vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #aic4 #ef ,recent ,archological ,discoveries in the ,american ,bottom4 ,bulletin of the ,buffalo ,society of ,natural ,sciences1 ,march #b1 #ahgg1 p4 #bjh4 ,,index ,,adair1 ,,james1 on ,cherokee basketry #af weaving #bc ,indian method of spinning #bc ,,alabama1 ,fabric-impressed pottery from #ci ,,apogynum1 ,indian use of1 in weaving #bc ,,arkansas1 ,fabric-impressed pottery from #db ,,art1 textile1 ,memoir on #c-de ,,bags1 ,woven1 described #cc1 #cd ,,bark clothing #ag fiber used in weaving #bc1 #bd1 #be ,mulberry1 used for fringe #cb used in embroidery designs #bh net making #bg spinning #bb ,,bartram1 ,w41 on council houses of mats #ai on sieve of ,georgia ,indians #ag ,,basketry discussed #ae ,earthenware derived from #aa ,lack of pottery modeled from #ch rarely preserved by charring #cf ,,beads used in embroidery #bh ,,biloxi1 ,mortuary customs of the #ba ,,brackinridge1 ,h4 ,m4 on ,tennessee mortuary customs #ba ,,bridges of wattle work #ac ,,butel-,,dumont1 ,g4 ,m41 on ,louisiana indian embroidery #bh featherwork #bh mortuary mats #ba sieves #ag ,mobilian wattled biers #ad ,natchez dwellings #ad rafts of poles and canes #ae ,,cages of wattle work #ac ,,california ,,indians1 ,stone chipping by #da ,,canes used for matting #ah ,,carolina ,,indians1 ,textile fabrics of #ad1 #af ,,caves1 ,fabrics preserved in #bi ,,charring1 ,fabrics preserved by #ce ,,chase1--1 on ceremonial knives #af ,,cherokee1 ,basketry of the #af ,weaving by the #bc ,,choctaw1 ,woven pouches and blankets of the #bd ,,claws of birds used with embroidery #bh ,,cleu1 ,j4 ,f41 ,split cane matting found by #cg ,,cloth4 ,methods of manufacture of #bb ,,conti1 a ,georgia ,indian food #ag ,,copper as a fabric preservative #cf used in embroidery #bh ,,cordage1 ,primitive manufacture of #ba ,,costumes of ,louisiana indian women #cb1 #cc ,,cotton shawls of lower ,mississippi #be ,,cradles1 ,textile1 described #ah ,,cresson1 ,h4 ,t41 ,remains of fish-weirs found by #ae ,,delaware1 ,remains of weirs in #ae ,,de ,,soto1 ,h41 ,expedition of #be ,,district ,,of ,,columbia1 ,fabric-impressed pottery from #dd1 #de ,,du ,,pratz1 ,,le ,p41 on ,louisiana basketry #af cane rafts #ae clothing #bb1 #be1 #cb1 #cc dyes #bj embroidery #bh feather work #bg nets #bg sieves #ag textile cradles #ah ,,dwellings of wattle work #ac ,,dyeing of basketry by the ,cherokee #af embroidery materials #bh ,,dyes1 use of1 by ,louisiana ,indians #bj ,,elvas1 ,,knight ,,of1 on ,georgia indian blankets #bd ,,elvas1 ,,knight ,,of on ,georgia indian costume #bb ,,embroidery1 ,lack of remains of #ab of southern ,indians #bh ,,emmeet1 ,j4 ,w41 mortuary fabrics procured by #cj ,,fans of turkey feathers #ag ,,feather blankets of the ,choctaw #bd weaving among ,louisiana ,indians #be work described #bg ,lack of remains of #ab ,,fish-,,weirs of ,virginia indians #ad of wattle work #ac ,,florida indians1 ,nets made and used by #de ,,fossil fabrics discussed #bh ,,georgia1 ,fabrics from #cf indians1 ,textile fabrics of #ag ,remains of matting from #cf ,,grasses employed in spinning #bb ,,hair used in weaving #bb1 #bd1 #be1 #bh1 #cf ,,hakluyt1 ,,richard1 on ,indian sieves #ag ,,hariot1 ,,thomas1 on indian costume #bb mat houses #ah indian fish-weirs #ad method of spinning #bc ,,haywood1 ,,john1 ,mortuary fabrics described by #ag1 #bi ,,hemp1 ,indian1 in spinning and weaving #bb1 #bc1 #bd1 #be1 #cd ,,henry1 ,,joseph1 ,description of cane matting by #cg ,,holmes1 ,w4 ,h41 ,memoir by1 on prehistoric textile art #c-de on ,peruvian feather-work #bg ,,howland1 ,h4 ,r41 ,copper-preserved cloth found by #cg ,,hunter1 ,j4 ,d41 on ,osage weaving #be ,,illinois1 ,copper-preserved cloth from #cg ,fabric-impressed pottery from #da1 #de ,,iowa1 ,fabrics from #cf ,,iroquois1 ,nets of #bf ,,joutel1--1 on indian use of mats #bj ,,kalm1 ,,peter1 on indian weaving #bb ,,klett1 ,f41 ,description of textiles found by #cd ,,lafitau1 ,j4 ,e41 ,illustration by1 of council mats #ai on ,pamunki initiatory shelters #ad ,,lawson1 ,,john1 on ,carolina baskets #af mortuary wrappings #bf ,santee feather-work #bg wattled hurdles #ad ,,louisiana1 ,split-cane matting from #cg1 #ch ,,lye1 ,use of1 in net-making #bf ,m,c,gi,l,l1 ,a4 ,j41 ,mortuary fabrics procured by #cj ,,mats1 cane1 ,burial accompaniments found in #cj of ,carolina indians #af flags and rushes #bf ,,matting discussed #ah preserved by charring #cf of split cane from ,louisiana #cg1 #ch ,,missouri1 fabric-impressed pottery from #db ,,mitchell1 ,s4 ,l41 ,mortuary fabrics described by #cj ,,mobilians1 ,wattled biers of the #ad ,,mortuary customs of the ,louisiana tribes #ba fabrics preserved in caves #bi1 #cj wrappings #bf ,,mound-,,builders1 ,character of pottery of #ab ,,mouse-,,wood1 ,indian use of1 in weaving #bc ,,mulberry ,,bark used in weaving #bd1 #be ,,natchez dwellings of wattle-work #ad ,,nets of ,florida and ,virginia indians #de ,manufacture and use of #bf ,,nettles employed in spinning #bb ,,north ,,carolina1 ,fabric-impressed pottery from #ch1 #de ,,ohio1 ,fabric from mound in #cf ,,osage ,,indians1 ,weaving by #be ,,pamunki initiatory shelters #ad ,,paskagula mortuary customs #ba ,,pemmenaw1 ,use of1 in weaving #bc ,,pliable fabrics described #ba ,,porcupine skins used in embroidery #bh ,,potherie1 ,b4 ,,de ,,la1 on indian nets #bf sleeping mats #bj spinning #bc weaving #bb ,iroquois ceremonial mats #ba ,,pottery1 ,fabrics impressed on #cg ,use of textiles in manufacture of #aa ,,preservation of fossil fabrics #bh ,,putnam1 ,f4 ,w41 ,textile articles found by #ce ,,rafts of poles and canes #ae wattle work #ac ,,reeds used for matting #ah ,,rope1 primitive manufacture of #ba ,,rushes used for matting #ah ,,sandal1 woven1 described and figured #cd1 #ce ,,santee feather-work #bg ,,sauteurs1 ,use of nets by the #bf ,,shawls1 ,indian1 used by ,spaniards as sails #be ,,shelters1 ,fabrics preserved in #bi ,,shields of ,virginia ,indians #ah ,,sieves of basketry #ag ,,sinew1 ,cloth of #bb ,,smith1 ,,john1 on indian costume #bb method of spinning #bc shields #ah ,virginia indian embroidery #bh feather work #bg fish-weirs #ad ,,smith1 ,,john1 on ,virginia indian sieves #ag wattled houses #ac ,,spindle ,,whorls as evidence of textile manufacture #aa ,,spinning1 ,development of #ba ,,strainers of basketry #ag ,,sweat-,,houses made of mats #ai ,,targets1 ,woven #ah ,,tennessee1 ,fabric-impressed pottery from #ci1 #dj1 #db1 #dc1 #dd ,,thomas1 ,,cyrus1 ,mound exploration by #i ,,thread1 primitive1 ,manufacture of #ba ,,turquois among indians of lower ,mississippi #be ,,tuskarora1 ,basketry of the #af ,,virginia indian nets #de ,,wattle ,,work defined and described #ac ,,weaving1 ,development of #ba ,early descriptions of #bb