file :i* includes ! orig9al illu/rations4 ,see #aigdj-;h4htm or #aigdj-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/i_ /g_/d_/aigdj_/aigdj-;h_/#aigdj-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/i_ /g_/d_/aigdj_/aigdj-;h4zip7 ,transcrib]'s note ,obvi\s pr9t]'s errors h be5 correct$4 ,a li/ ( corrections is f\nd at ! end ( ! text4 ,,make ,,y\r ,,own ,,hats by ,,g5e ,,all5 ,,m>t9 ,director ( ,dome/ic ,arts ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,m9neapolis ,y4,w4,c4,a42 ,design]1 ,demon/rator & ,in/ructor 9 ,mill9]y ,illu/rat$ by ,e4 ,e4 ,m>t9 ,illu/ration ,bo/on & ,new ,york ,h\ghton ,miffl9 ,company ,! ,riv]side ,press ,cambridge ,copyright1 #aiba1 by ,g5e ,all5 ,m>t9 ,all ,rights ,res]v$ ,! ,riv]side ,press ,cambridge 4 ,massa*usetts ,pr9t$ 9 ! ,u4,s4,a4 ,,=eword ,hat-mak+ is an art :i* may be acquir$ by any "o possess+ pati5ce & ord9>y ability4 ,to make a hat = ! trade is n z difficult z to make "o = an individual2 nei!r is x s high a phase ( art4 ,_m rules are giv5 = cr[n-height1 brim-wid?1 & color1 z be+ suit$ to diff]5t types ( faces1 b !y are s (t5 mislead+ t x seems be/ to consid] only a few1 s9ce ! becom+ness ( a hat almo/ inv>iably dep5ds ^u m9or *>act]i/ics ( ! individual = :i* !re are no rules4 ,a girl or woman ) auburn hair may we> grays--gray-gre51 cream color1 salmon p9k2 a t\* ( h5na ) gold or orange2 mulb]ry if ! eyes are d>k4 ,! woman ) d>k hair & blue or d>k eyes may we> any color if ! sk9 is cle>4 ,"o hav+ d>k hair & eyes & a sall[ sk9 may f9d gold5 br[n1 a pale yell[ or cream color becom+--possibly a mulb]ry if j ! "r dep?4 ,a hat ) slightly droop+ brim fac$ ) "s %ade ( rose w add color to ! *eeks4 ,no r$s %\ld be worn unless ! sk9 is cle>4 ,no %ade ( purple or heliotrope %\ld be worn by any "o hav+ blue eyes--x seems to make ! blue pal]4 ,any "o hav+ auburn hair1 blue eyes1 & a cle> sk9 may we> br[ns1 grays1 gre5s1 tan1 blue1 & black4 ,black %\ld n be worn next ! face unless ! sk9 is brilliant4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 v becom+ to blondes1 & to wom5 ^: hair has become q :ite4 ,a black hat is almo/ a necessity 9 e woman's w>drobe1 & x may always be made becom+ by us+ a fac+ ( "s color :i* is especially becom+ to ! we>]--black & :ite is always a sm>t comb9ation1 b v difficult to h&le4 ,9 reg>d to l9es--x is kn[n t a hat ) a droop+ brim takes f ! height ( ! we>] & %\ld nev] be worn by any "o hav+ r\nd %\ld]s or a %ort neck4 ,a hat turn$ up at ! back w\ld be mu* bett]4 ,a n>r[ brim & high cr[n add height to ! we>]4 ,a woman ) a %ort1 turn$-up nose %\ld avoid a hat turn$ up too %>ply f ! face4 ,%ort p %\ld avoid v wide brims4 ,= ! possessor ( a v full1 r\nd face ! high cr[n & n>r[ brim1 or a brim :i* turns up %>ply aga9/ ! cr[n on "o side1 or all ar\nd1 %\ld prove becom+4 ,a tall1 sl5d] woman w\ld d well to we> a droop+ brim1 wide en\gh to be 9 keep+ ) h] height4 ,!re is "o /yle ( hat :i* seems to be1 ) v>i\s modifications1 univ]sally becom+1 & t is ! bicorne1 a =m ( ! ,napoleon /yle ( hat4 ,aft] all1 exp]i5ce is ! be/ tea*]4 ,:5ev] a hat is f\nd to be especially becom+1 "o w\ld d well to f9d out j :y x is s & make a note ( ! color1 size1 & g5]al outl9e4 ,^! notes are ( value if kept = future ref]5ce1 :e!r hats are to be made = ! %op or = home mill9]y4 ,a hat is seldom becom+ all ! way ar\nd1 b ! aim %\ld be to make x s4 ,ov]-ornam5tation %\ld be gu>d$ aga9/1 also too close h>mony 9 color until mu* exp]i5ce has be5 ga9$4 ,a rule by :i* to judge ( ! becom+ness ( a hat & to :i* !re is no exception is ?is--! hat mu/ enhance y\r looks4 ,if y d n look m pleas+ ) x on ?an ) x (f1 x is n z good a model = y z x might be4 ,9 plann+ or *oos+ a hat we unconsci\sly decide ^u ^? colors & outl9es :i* are an outw>d expression ( ourselves4 ,a hat1 z well z any article ( clo?+1 may express _m ?+s--dejection1 happ9ess1 decision1 indecision1 gayety1 dignity1 graci\sness1 a tra9$ or an untra9$ m9d1 =e?\ght1 ref9em5t1 g5]osity1 cruelty1 or recklessness4 ,h[ (t5 we he> "s "o say1 ,t hat looks j l ,mrs4 ,blank6 ,clo?+ ( any k9d is an index to ! p]sonality ( ! we>]4 ,a fri5d once said 9 my pres5ce to a saleswoman :o 0 try+ to sell h] a hat1 ,b ,i d n feel l t hat6 ,! saleswoman repli$1 ,t's j x--y refuse to buy x because y d n feel l x1 :ile ,i tell y t x is mo/ becom+4 ,all ( :i* %[$ t ?is saleswoman _h n ! mo/ remote idea ( :at 0 meant1 & _h a total lack ( und]/&+4 ,clo!s %\ld be a matt] ( feel+1 & ?is same feel+ is some?+ vital & %\ld be cat]$ to if our g>m5ts are to help set our spirits free4 ,:y %\ld we we> any?+ :i* is mislead+ 9 reg>d to ourselves8 ,let u look 9 ! mirror ea* day & ask ourselves :e!r we look to be :at we wi% o!rs to ?9k we are4 ,x is important 9 plann+ a hat to see x 9 broad daylight z well z "u artificial light4 ,x %\ld also be tri$ on 9 a good light :ile /&+ be=e a mirror1 z a hat :i* may seem becom+ :ile sitt+ may n be s :ile /&+1 ) ! :ole figure tak5 into consid]ation4 ,to make "o's own hats1 us+ up old mat]ials1 /imulates orig9ality & gives opportunity = expression4 ,x is amaz+ to see h[ _m new ideas are born :5 we />t out to d some?+ :i* we h ?\ght q impossible4 ,x all helps to give add$ ze/ to life4 ,mak+ "o's own hats appeals to ! con/ructive in/9ct ( e woman aside f ! matt] ( ?rift1 :i* %\ld always be tak5 into consid]ation4 ,"s "o w say1 ,i w\ld n we> any hat ,i might make4 ,h[ (t5 h we worn unbecom+ hats1 poor 9 workman%ip1 besides pay+ "s "o h&somely = ! privilege4 ,let u try to =m "s /&>d by :i* to judge ( ! wor? ( a hat in/ead ( ! mak]'s "n4 ,be=e mak+ a hat1 ! entire w>drobe %\ld be c>efully look$ ov] to see ) :at ! hat mu/ be worn1 & ! k9d ( s]vice we are go+ to expect f x4 ,e article ( a co/ume %\ld be relat$ & h>moni\s z to color1 outl9e1 & suitability4 ,! result %\ld be a p]fect :ole )\t a s+le discord4 ,h[ (t5 we see a gre5 skirt1 mu/>d-color$ coat1 & a bright blue hat--ea* article pleas+ by itself1 b atroci\s :5 worn collectively4 ,bright1 gay little hats are pleas+ :5 se5 seldom1 b we soon tire ( "o if x mu/ be worn daily4 ,"t & our be/ ?\ght are well sp5t 9 plann+ our app>el4 ,! prop] clo?+ gives u confid5ce & self-respect1 & ! respect ( o!rs4 ,to be well dress$ is to be free f ! ?\ght ( clo!s4 ,we judge & are judg$ by ! clo!s we we>--!y are an outw>d expression ( ourselves1 & speak = u1 :ile we mu/ rema9 sil5t4 ,simplicity is ! keynote ( beauty--no "o article ( clo?+ %\ld /& out too conspicu\sly1 unless x is ! hat4 ,nature uses bright colors sp>+ly4 ,if y look at a plant1 y f9d x d>k ne> ! gr\nd1 gr[+ light] ne> ! top ) its gre5 leaves1 & !n ! blossom2 ! glory is at ! top4 ,ev]y?+ 9 nature tea*es u to look up4 ,s ! hat %\ld be ! cr[n+ glory ( a co/ume1 ! c5t] ( int]e/1 & %\ld receive ! mo/ c>eful att5tion z to becom+ness1 suitability1 & workman%ip4 ,,cont5ts ,i4 ,,equipm5t ,,& ,,mat]ials #a ,,ii4 ,,cov]+ ,,frame ,,) ,,velvet #ae ,,iii4 ,,frames ,,( ,,nete5 ,,& ,,cr9ol9e #ca ,,iv4 ,,wire ,,frames #ce ,v4 ,,r\nd ,,cr[n ,,( ,,wire #dd ,,vi4 ,,hat ,,cov]+s #ed ,,vii4 ,,trimm+s #fh ,,viii4 ,,h&-,,made ,,fl[]s #gh ,,ix4 ,,remodel+ ,,& ,,r5ovat+ #ajj ,,illu/rations ,,%[+ ,,%ap$ ,,brim ,,( ,,nete5 ,,) ,,ribbon-,,wire ,,braces ,,ba/$ ,,9 ,,place #d ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,fitt+ ,,fabric ,,to ,,%ap$ ,,brim #af ,,%[+ ,,"u ,,fac+ ,,( ,,brim ,,p9n$ ,,ov] ,,wire ,,ready ,,to ,,sew ,,9 ,,place #af ,,v>i\s ,,processes #cf ,,fancy ,,cr[n-,,tip ,,( ,,braid #dd ,,roll+ ,,wire ,,brim #dd ,,r\nd ,,cr[n ,,( ,,wire #dd ,,"o ,,me?od ,,( ,,/>t+ ,,! ,,braid ,,on ,,cr[n ,,& ,,sew+ ,,9 ,,place #ed ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,cov]+ ,,cr[n ,,) ,,two-,,in* ,,wide ,,bias ,,sat9 #fd ,,ribbon ,,trimm+s #gb ,,h&-,,made ,,fl[]s #gh ,,make ,,y\r ,,own ,,hat ,,*apt] ,i ,,equipm5t ,,& ,,mat]ials ,,equipm5t ,?imble ,?read ,ne$les ,tape-measure ,p9s ,tailor's *alk or p5cil ,mill9]'s pli]s or wire cutt]s ,scissors1 l>ge & small ,pap] = patt]ns ,?imble--good quality ,?read--,g5eva lu/re1 black & :ite1 numb] #cf4 ,color$ ?read z ne$$4 ,ne$les--assort$ pap] ( mill9]'s ne$les1 #h to #aj4 ,tape-measure--( good quality sate54 ,tailor's *alk--:ite & d>k blue4 ,mill9]'s pli]s--pli]s :i* fit ! h&1 n too heavy1 ) blunt po9ts1 & %>p en\gh to cut a ?read4 ,,mat]ials ,,us$ ,,to ,,make ,,hat ,,frames ,fabrics-- ,buckram ,cr9ol9e ,cape net ,nete5 or ,fly net ,will[ plate ,wires-- ,cable ,frame or brace wire ,lace ,tie ,ribbon ,sprung ,pap] = patt]ns-- ,heavy manila ,,buckram-- ,comes 9 black & :ite1 ab\t tw5ty-sev5 in*es wide--a heavy /iff mat]ial1 smoo? on "o side & r r\gh on ! o!r4 ,x is m commonly us$ = hat f\ndations ?an any o!r fabric4 ,!re is also a summ] buckram1 light] 9 weight & smoo? on bo? sides4 ,,cr9ol9e-- ,comes 9 black & :ite1 tw5ty-sev5 in*es wide--a /iff1 ?91 op5-me%$ mat]ial1 us$ to make s(t hat frames1 to cov] wire frames1 & 9 bias /rips to cov] edge wire aft] x is sew$ on ! fabric frame4 ,,nete5 ,,or ,,fly ,,net-- ,a /iff op5-me%$ mat]ial--comes 9 black1 :ite1 & ecru1 "o y>d wide--a v popul> mat]ial on acc\nt ( its great pliability & lightness4 ,x is us$ = block+ frames & copy+1 ! l9es be+ mu* s(t] ?an :5 made ) buckram4 ,v durable4 ,,cape ,,net-- ,a light-weight1 op5-me%$ mat]ial us$ = block+ & = s(t frames4 ,n z pliable z nete54 ,,will[ ,,plate-- ,a co>se /raw-l mat]ial1 light 9 weight1 brittle1 & v exp5sive1 us$ 9 block+2 frames are also made f x )\t block+4 ,mu/ be damp5$ be=e us+4 ,n recomm5d$ = amateurs4 ,,wire comes 9 black1 :ite1 silv]1 & gilt1 & is cov]$ ) cotton1 m]c]iz$ cotton1 & silk4 ,x may be procur$ 9 s+le & d\ble bolts4 ,,cable-- ,l>ge/ wire us$ 9 mill9]y4 ,9 mak+ wire frames1 x is us$ z edge wire & sometimes = ! entire frame4 ,be+ l>g] ?an frame wire1 x makes a pleas+ effect :5 us$ z "p ( ! wire frame design1 if x is to be cov]$ ) %e] mat]ial4 ,,frame ,,or ,,brace ,,wire-- ,us$ 9 mak+ frames & is sew$ on ! edge ( all buckram & fabric hat frames4 ,,lace-- ,small] ?an frame wire1 us$ = wir+ lace ribbon & fl[]s1 & sometimes = mak+ an entire frame :5 a v da9ty design is desir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%[+ ,,%ap$ ,,brim ,,( ,,nete5 ,,) ,,ribbon-,,wire ,,braces ,,ba/$ ,,9 ,,place ,,tie-- ,smalle/ wire us$ 9 mill9]y2 comes w\nd on spools4 ,is us$ to tie o!r wires1 & 9 mak+ h&-made fl[]s4 ,comes 9 black1 :ite1 & gre54 ,,ribbon-- ,a cotton ribbon ab\t ?ree eigh?s ( an in* wide1 ) a f9e wire wov5 ?r\gh ! c5t]1 also a wire on ea* edge4 ,us$ to wire ribbons4 ,,sprung-- ,an uncov]$ /eel wire us$ to make halo brims2 is sometimes sew$ on edge ( buckram or o!r fabric brims1 if ! hat is unusually wide1 or if a brim is to be especially /iff4 ,x is occasionally us$ z an edge wire on wire frames4 ,,hat ,,frames ,,( ,,fabric ,mu* c>e1 ?\ght1 & pati5ce mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 mak+ ! frame ( any hat4 ,x is ! f\ndation ^u :i* we build1 & if poorly made no am\nt ( "w c cov] x up lat]4 ,a hat mu/ be "r e /ep ( ! way4 ,! frame is ! fir/ /ep1 & s ! mo/ important4 ,! simple/ hat to make is ! /raight brim sailor ) a squ>e cr[n1 cov]$ ) velvet4 ,su* a model we w take up at fir/4 ,,sailor ,,hat ,,frame-- ,= conv5i5ce we w use ! foll[+ dim5sions3 ,wid? ( brim1 ?ree in*es2 height ( cr[n1 ?ree & "o-half in*es2 l5g? ( cr[n tip1 eight & "o-half in*es2 wid? ( cr[n tip1 six & "o-half in*es1 & headsize1 tw5ty-f\r in*es4 ,,patt]n ,,= ,,brim-- ,cut f a piece ( manila pap] f\rte5 & "o-half by f\rte5 & "o-half in*es ! l>ge/ possible circle2 ! pap] may be fold$ into halves1 !n qu>t]s1 !n into eigh?s & creas$4 ,a r\nd brim w n be ( equal wid? all ar\nd f headsize wire1 because ! headsize wire mu/ be oval to fit ! head4 ,! front & back w bo? be ab\t an in* n>r[] ?an ! sides4 ,,headsize ,,wire-- ,,to ,,measure--,?is is especially important1 = ^u ! accuracy ( ?is measurem5t dep5ds ! com=t ( ! we>]2 ?is is ! f\ndation wire4 ,pass a tape measure ar\nd ! head ov] ! hair :]e ! hat is to re/ & add two in*es to ?is measure4 ,"o is = lapp+ ! ends & ! o!r in* is to all[ = l9+ & cov]+ ( hat :i* goes up into ! headsize4#g-a ,z our headsize measure is tw5ty-f\r in*es long1 cut a piece ( frame wire tw5ty-six in*es long2 ?is all[s = ! two in*es j m5tion$4 ,lap ! ends "o in* & fa/5 ea* end ) tie wire4#g-b ,wire always laps "o in*--no m1 no less4 ,,to ,,%ape--,) ! h&s inside1 pull ! circle until x is elongat$ to fit ! head4 ,?is headsize wire mu/ n press unduly ^u any "p ( ! head4 ,,to ,,locate ,,headsize ,,on ,,patt]n--,lay patt]n flat1 p9 headsize wire on patt]n ) jo9+ at back crease 9 pap]1 hav+ ! back & front ( brim ( equal wid?1 & ! two sides ( brim ( equal wid?4 ,m>k all ar\nd headsize wire ) a p5cil4 ,remove wire & cut pap] "o-half in* inside ?is m>k4 ,,to ,,cut ,,buckram ,,brim--,lay patt]n on smoo? side ( buckram1 p91 & cut ! edges v smoo?ly4 ,cut headsize same z patt]n4 ,m>k location ( c5t] back & c5t] front4 ,remove patt]n & ) a hot iron press ! buckram p]fectly flat1 be+ c>eful n to break or make a %>p b5d 9 ! buckram1 = if once brok5 x _c be satisfactorily repair$4 ,,to ,,sew ,,headsize ,,wire ,,to ,,brim--,fir/ note ! relation ( headsize wire to brim4 ,if buckram is c>efully cut1 ! wire may be p9n$ on "o-half in* f edge4 ,! brim has be5 cut r\nd & w h ! appe>ance ( a r\nd hat :5 worn & yet1 on acc\nt ( ! oval headsize wire1 ! brim :5 f9i%$ w measure ab\t ?ree & "o-half in*es on ea* side & ab\t two & "o-half in*es back & front4 ,p9 wire on smoo? side ( buckram ) lap at c5t] back1 also p9 front & ea* side1 be+ c>eful n to lose ! %ape ( ! headsize wire4 ,br+ ne$le up f "u side ( brim close to wire1 beg9n+ at lap4 ,take /it* ov] wire to "u side com+ back ?r\gh fir/ /it* to "r side4 ,take next /it* ov] wire "o-f\r? in* f fir/1 com+ back to "r side4 ,repeat all ! way ar\nd until lap is rea*$4 ,fa/5 ?read by tak+ sev]al /it*es close toge!r ov] ends ( wire 9 ord] to jo9 neatly & prev5t _! work+ loose4 ,sla% buckram inside headsize wire e half in* & turn pieces up4 ,?is makes small flaps to :i* cr[n may be fa/5$ lat]4 ,! brim may n[ be tri$ on & *anges made if necess>y4 ,,edge ,,wire-- ,?is is cut f frame wire & mu/ be long en\gh to rea* ar\nd edge ( brim & lap "o in*4 ,edge wire is always sew$ on same side ( brim z ! headsize wire1 :i* is usually ! smoo? side4 ,%ape ?is wire to con=m to %ape ( brim4 ,nev] dep5d on ! hat or ! /it*es to hold a wire 9 place4 ,beg9 at c5t]-back ( hat hold+ wire t[>d y1 & sew+ f "r to left4 ,hold wire z ne> ! edge z possible1 )\t lett+ x slip ov] ! edge4 ,sew on ) ov]ca/+ /it*1 tak+ two /it*es 9 same hole4 ,take ! /it*es j ! dep? ( ! wire4 ,if too %all[1 ! wire w slip (f ov] ! edge1 or1 if too deep1 ! wire w slip back away f ! edge leav+ x unprotect$ & liable to become brok5 & unev5-look+4 ,a frame mu/ be well made 9 e detail to produce satisfactory results :5 f9i%$4 ,,to ,,cov] ,,edge ,,wire--,all edge wire mu/ be cov]$ ) cr9ol9e or a *eap musl94 ,cut a /rip ( su* goods on a true bias1 ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* wide4 ,remove ! selvage & /ret* ! /rip4 ,b9d ! edge wire ) x1 hold+ x v tight4 ,sew close to wire us+ a /ab /it*4 ,,"r ,,side--,,wrong ,,side-- ,?is /it* is made by tak+ a long /it* on "r side & !n a %ort back /it* on wrong side4 ,lap ends ( cr9ol9e "o-f\r? in* at f9i%1 b d n turn ends "u4 ,,squ>e ,,cr[n-- ,a squ>e cr[n is "o hav+ a flat top1 or "o only slightly r\nd$1 ) ! sides slightly slop+ 9 t[>ds ! top4 ,a cr[n ( ?is type ?ree or ?ree & "o-half in*es 9 height w\ld be at lea/ "o & "o-half in*es small] at ! top ?an at ! bottom4 ,any cr[n made sep>ately f ! brim mu/ be l>ge en\gh to cov] ! headsize wire on ! brim at ! base4 ,to elim9ate any sla%es or seams 9 ! side cr[n1 a pap] patt]n %\ld be made4 ,foll[+ p>agraphs expla9 h[ ?is is done4 ,,patt]n ,,= ,,slant+ ,,side ,,cr[n-- ,cut a piece ( manila pap] "o-f\r? in* wid] ?an cr[n height & "o-half in* long] ?an headsize wire measure4 ,sla% across ?is pap] 9 f\r equally di/ant places1 )9 "o-f\r? in* ( edge ( bottom1 !n lap sla%es at top a little m ?an "o-f\r? in*1 or ab\t en\gh to take out ab\t "o & "o-half in*es4 ,p9 sla%es4 ,lap ends ( pap] "o-f\r? in* & p9 toge!r4 ,place ?is patt]n on brim ) jo9+ at back & p9 to upturn$ sla%es on brim4 ,try on to see if any alt]ations are necess>y4 ,x c be decid$ at ?is po9t & *anges made %\ld ! cr[n be too slop+ or too /raight4 ,an amateur %\ld try on a frame (t5 9 ord] to be assur$ ( l9es & curves t are becom+4 ,remove patt]n f brim & cut (f f top & bottom any irregul>ities on ! edge4 ,,to ,,cut ,,side ,,cr[n ,,f ,,buckram-- ,remove ! p9s f ! seam1 all[+ p9s 9 sla%es to rema94 ,lay patt]n flat on smoo? side ( buckram1 l5g?wise ( ! mat]ial to take advantage ( ! natural roll4 ,cut close to patt]n2 lap ! ends "o-f\r? in*4 ,sew1 us+ a f9e back /it* close to ea* edge2 ?is makes two r[s ( /it*+4 ,sew a piece ( frame wire to top & bottom ( side cr[n1 keep+ all jo9+ at back4 ,use same me?od z 9 sew+ edge wire on brim4 ,cov] bo? wires ) cr9ol9e4 ,,cr[n ,,tips-- ,! top ( ! cr[n may be kept s(t-look+ or x may be made ( buckram1 produc+ a /iff effect4 ,bo? me?ods w be giv54 ,,s(t ,,cr[n ,,tip--,fir/ %ape side cr[n to fit headsize wire on brim1 :i* w be an ellipse4 ,cut piece ( cr9ol9e1 ! exact %ape ( ! cr[n1 plus "o in* all ar\nd4 ,p9 ?is ov] top1 puff+ x a v little1 & sew ) /ab /it* close "u wire4 ,cut surplus mat]ial (f to "o-f\r? in*4 ,,/iff ,,cr[n ,,tip1 ,,made ,,( ,,buckram--,lay top ( side cr[n on smoo? side ( buckram & m>k ! %ape ) a p5cil4 ,cut buckram "o-half in* outside ( ?is m>k4 ,next1 9 ord] to fold d[n ?is /iff cr[n tip1 x w be necess>y to cut1 f ?is half-in* ( buckram outside ! p5cil l9e1 small w$ge-l pieces1 ab\t "o in* ap>t4 ,cut !m close to ! l9e drawn4 ,p9 ?is piece on top ( cr[n1 press flaps d[n & sew on ) /ab /it*4 ,,cr[ns-- ,if a r\nd cr[n is to be us$ x is advisable to buy a t5-c5t sep>ate cr[n or a frame ) a r\nd cr[n4 ,if an entire frame is pur*as$1 remove ! cr[n & wire its bottom edge4 ,aft] "s skill has be5 acquir$ by ! /ud5t ( mill9]y1 a r\nd cr[n ( fabric may be block$ by h& ov] a wire cr[n4 ,,to ,,cov] ,,r\nd ,,cr[n-- ,p9 mat]ial on top ( cr[n ) bias at front4 ,pull ) ! /raight ( ! mat]ial & p9 j bel[ edge ( curve4 ,sew "o-half in* bel[ ?is ) /ab /it*1 trim mat]ial (f close "u ?is /it*+4 ,remove p9s4 ,fit a bias piece ( mat]ial1 us+ same me?od & measurem5ts z = side cr[n ( velvet sailor 9 *apt] ,,ii4 ,sew ! cr[n to brim be=e adju/+ ! side cr[n cov]+4 ,pull ?is bias piece ov] cr[n & p9 smoo?ly 9 place4 ,f9i% top & bottom ( ?is b& by turn+ ! edges ov] a wire4 ,use same /it* z 9 f9i%+ edge ( fac+ on brim4#ac-a ,?is makes a neat f9i% = a hat :i* w dem& little trimm+4 ,if ! amateur f9ds x too difficult to f9i% ! bottom ( a side cr[n 9 ?is way1 ! edge may be cov]$ ) a fold ( mat]ial or a n>r[ ribbon2 ! top may also be f9i%$ by a n>r[ ribbon1 b f9i%+ neatly ) a wire %\ld be ma/]$ if possible1 z ?is /yle ( f9i% is us$ 9 _m places4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote #g-a3 ,to cut wire see *apt] ,,iv4 ,footnote #g-b3 ,to tie wire see *apt] ,,iv4 ,footnote #ac-a3 ,see *apt] ,,ii4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,cov]+ ,,frame ,,) ,,velvet ,mat]ial requir$ "o & "o-half y>ds mill9]'s velvet or any velvet eighte5 to tw5ty-f\r in*es wide4 ,if velvet us$ is ?irty-six in*es wide1 "o y>d w be suffici5t4 ,,to ,,cov] ,,brim-- ,place corn] ( velvet at front ( brim on top side 7smoo? side74 ,edgewire & headsize wire %\ld always be on top ( brim4 ,turn velvet ov] edge ( brim & p94 ,/ick p9s ?r\gh at "r angles to brim to avoid m>r+ ! velvet4 ,p9 closely all ar\nd edge ( brim1 pull+ mat]ial ) ! ?read to remove any fullness4 ,d n pull tight en\gh to b5d ! brim4 ,trim velvet (f "o-f\r? in* to turn "u brim4 ,ba/e close to headsize wire on top ) /ab /it*4 ,cut velvet out inside ( headsize wire1 leav+ a half in* to sla% & turn up ) ! buckram4 ,,to ,,sew ,,velvet ,,edge ,,to ,,brim-- ,?is %\ld be done ) a close ov]ca/+ /it* on ! "u side1 be+ c>eful n to prick ?r\gh to ! "r side ( ! velvet4 ,x is sometimes advisable 9 prep>+ ! frame to /it* ! buckram 9 f ! edge ab\t "o-f\r? in* ) ! sew+ ma*9e1 us+ a long /it*4 ,?is /it*+ may !n be us$ to put ! ne$le ?r\gh :5 sew+ ! velvet d[n4 ,if ! velvet seems ?ick & heavy-look+ on "u side aft] sew+1 x may be press$ d[n ) a hot iron4 ,if done quickly & lightly1 x w n %[ on ! "r side4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,fitt+ ,,fabric ,,to ,,%ap$ ,,brim ,,to ,,face ,,"u ,,side ,,( ,,brim-- ,p9 velvet on "u side1 us+ same me?od 9 p9n+ z t on top ( brim4 ,?is mu/ be p9n$ v c>efully4 ,cut (f velvet all ar\nd edge1 leav+ a little less ?an "o-f\r? in* to turn "u4 ,fac+s are usually f9i%$ at ! edge ) a wire4 ,cut a piece ( frame wire ! exact circumf]5ce ( ! brim1 plus "o in* = lap4 ,b5d to %ape ( brim & p9 "u edge ( velvet1 beg9n+ at ! c5t] back4 ,roll velvet ov] wire & br+ out to edge4 ,p9 9 place all ! way ar\nd be=e beg9n+ to sew4 ,place p9s 9 at "r angles to brim4 ,a piece ( velvet held 9 ! left h& w prev5t f+] m>ks f %[+ on ! velvet4 ,beg9 to sew at left ( wire jo9+1 :ile hold+ und]side ( brim t[>ds y4 ,br+ ne$le ?r\gh f back close "u wire4 ,) ! head ( ! ne$le press velvet along "u wire to make a crease or sort ( b$ = ! ?read ( ! next /it*4 ,take ne>ly a half-in* /it* by plac+ ne$le close "u ! wire & com+ ?r\gh betwe5 ! wire & ! upp] fac+4 ,come back "u ! wire ) a v small back /it*1 be+ c>eful to adju/ ! wire z y sew1 & to cat* a little ( ! upp] cov]+ ) ea* back /it*4 ,:5 wire jo9+ is rea*$1 treat ! lapp$ ends z "o wire4 ,fa/5 ends securely by tak+ sev]al small back /it*es4 ,lace wire1 be+ small] ?an frame wire1 is sometimes us$ to f9i% ! edge ( fac+4 ,x does n look z heavy1 b is some:at m difficult = a beg9n] to h&le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%[+ ,,"u ,,fac+ ,,( ,,brim ,,p9n$ ,,ov] ,,wire ,,ready ,,to ,,sew ,,9 ,,place ,,to ,,cov] ,,cr[n ,,top-- ,to cov] ! top1 cut a piece ( velvet ) ! bias at ! front1 same %ape z top ( cr[n plus "o in* all ar\nd4 ,ga!r "o-f\r? in* f edge1 place ov] top1 equalize ! ga!rs1 p9 9 place1 & sew ) /ab /it* ov] l9e ( ga!r+4 ,make ! edge lie z flat z possible & d n draw velvet too tight across ! top4 ,,to ,,cov] ,,side ,,cr[n-- ,cut a piece ( velvet on a true bias two & "o-half in*es wid] ?an height ( cr[n4 ,p9 ?is /rip wrong side out ar\nd side cr[n to f9d l5g? & to locate seam4 ,draw x snugly & p9 seam on /raight ( mat]ial ) w>p ?read4 7,w>p ?read is p>allel ) selvage47 ,remove velvet & /it* seam4 ,op5 x & press by draw+ x ov] ! edge ( a hot iron4 ,,to ,,sew ,,cr[n ,,on ,,brim-- ,! simple/ way to proce$ is to sew ! cr[n on ! brim be=e adju/+ ! side cr[n cov]+4 ,p9 back1 front1 & ea* side ( cr[n to brim1 plac+ seams at back4 ,sew ?r\gh upturn$ flaps ( brim & cr[n "o-f\r? in* f bottom wire4 ,/ret* ! velvet /rip = side cr[n on ! cr[n1 plac+ seam at back1 unless trimm+ has be5 plann$ :i* w cov] ! seam bett] if x is plac$ at "s o!r po9t4 ,turn top & bottom edges "u to fit ! side cr[n1 & press bottom fold d[n close to brim4 ,if ?is b& has be5 fitt$ tight en\gh1 x w n be f\nd necess>y to sew x4 ,,edge ,,( ,,brim ,,fac+1 ,,:5 ,,f9i%$ ,,)\t ,,wire-- ,a brim cov]$ ) velvet or any fabric may also be f9i%$ und]nea? )\t a wire1 ! edges be+ slip/it*$ toge!r4 ,9 ?is case1 ! und]fac+ w\ld be turn$ "u "o-f\r? in* & p9n$ 9 place all ! way ar\nd be=e beg9n+ to sew4 ,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh f und]side ( fac+ to ! v edge ( fold4 ,place po9t ( ne$le directly opposite ?is /it* & take a small /it* 9 upp] fac+1 !n take a small /it* 9 und]fac+4 ,ea* /it* always beg9s j opposite ! end+ ( prec$+ /it*1 s t ! ?read betwe5 ! two fac+s crosses ! seam at "r angles to edge ( brim4 ,?is me?od makes ! "w look smoo?1 & also x w n pull out ( place2 h[ev]1 ?is /yle ( f9i%+ an edge is n popul> & requires mu* practice4 ,,to ,,cov] ,,n>r[ ,,brim ,,sailor ,,)\t ,,an ,,edge ,,seam-- ,?is me?od c be us$ satisfactorily only :5 ! brim is n>r[1 & ! fabric pliable4 ,= conv5i5ce we w give measurem5ts z = a two & "o-half in* brim1 flat sailor1 outside edge measur+ =ty in*es4 ,cut a bias piece ( velvet =ty in*es long & sev5 in*es wide4 ,fold ?is velvet ?r\gh c5t] l5g?wise & /ick p9s e ?ree in*es ?r\gh edge ( fold at "r angles to edge & close to edge4 ,?is is to m>k ! l9e t mu/ be plac$ on ! edge ( ! brim4 ,if ! velvet is n plac$ ev5ly1 !re w be f\nd a great] am\nt ( fullness on "o side ?an on ! o!r4 ,place velvet ov] ! brim & p9 on edge at po9ts m>k$ by p9s4 ,/ret* z tight z possible4 ,on a brim ( ?is wid? all ( ! fullness %\ld be work$ out4 ,if ?is is f\nd to be v difficult1 lay ! brim aside1 ) ! velvet p9n$ on1 = an h\r or = ov]night1 & ! velvet w be f\nd to give a little m4 ,remove z mu* ( ! l5g? z possible4 ,locate seam1 remove f frame1 sew seam1 & replace z be=e4 ,sew on top close to headsize wire1 work+ out all ! fullness possible2 pull "u "p up into headsize4 ,sew "o-f\r? in* above headsize wire onto ! flaps1 be+ c>eful n to pull ! ?read too tight or ! headsize wire w be r$uc$ 9 size4 ,,fac+s-- ,a pleas+ v>iety is sometimes obta9$ by us+ a color$ und]fac+ on a black hat4 ,! entire fac+ may be ( a contra/+ color or ext5d only f headsize wire to )9 an in* ( ! edge ( ! brim4 ,9 ?is case !re c\ld be a /rip ( mat]ial ! same z upp] fac+ an in* & a half wide f9i%$ at ! edge ( ! brim ) a wire4 ,!n ! color$ fac+ w\ld be f9i%$ ov] ! edge ( ?is ) ano!r wire4 ,,brims ,,cov]$ ,,) ,,two ,,k9ds ,,( ,,fabric-- ,a flat brim or mu%room %ape is (t5 cov]$ by us+ two fabrics1 :i* may be ( ! same color or ( contra/+ colors4 ,small pieces ( old mat]ial may (t5 be cons]v$ 9 ?is mann] & ! hat at ! same "t h mu* *>m4 ,= in/ance1 ! edge ( ! hat c\ld h a bias b& ( sat91 two or m in*es wide1 /ret*$ ar\nd ! edge ( ! brim1 ) ! re/ ( ! brim cov]$ ) velvet ov]lapp+ ! sat9 & f9i%$ ) a wire bo? on top & bottom1 or only on "o side4 ,und]side ( brim may be f9i%$ ! same way1 or ! fac+ may be br\ght out ev5 ) ! edge & f9i%$ ) a wire4 ,,%ap$ ,,brim ,,f\ndation-- ,! simple/ %ap$ brim is ! mu%room /yle4 ,,to ,,make ,,patt]n ,,= ,,brim-- ,make a pap] patt]n ! same z = ! /raight brim sailor4 ,measure ! same = ! headsize wire1 jo9 ends ( wire1 %ape to fit ! head1 & p9 on pap] patt]n ( any desir$ wid?4 ,to make ! brim droop1 sla% ! patt]n f ! edge to ! headsize wire 9 f\r diff]5t places equally di/ant4 ,lap ^! sla%es "o-f\r? in* at ! edge1 & p94 ,! patt]n may also be sla%$ 9 eight or m diff]5t places if desir$1 ! sla%es be+ adju/$ by lapp+ m or less accord+ to ! am\nt ( droop :i* may be becom+4 ,aft] ! patt]n is adju/$ satisfactorily1 m>k ) a p5cil all ar\nd j inside ! headsize wire4 ,remove ! wire & cut ! pap] on ?is l9e4 ,cut patt]n 9 two at back & lay out flat on smoo? side ( buckram1 leav+ p9s 9 sla%es4 ,cut close to outside edge & all[ "o-f\r? in* = ! lap at ends4 ,m>k on buckram ) p5cil close to headsize l9e & cut "o-half in* inside ?is m>k4 ,lap ends "o-f\r? in* & back/it* closely at ea* edge ( flap4 ,sew a /rip ( cr9ol9e flat ov] seam to smoo? x up4 ,sew headsize wire on place m>k$1 :i* w be "o-half in* f inside edge4 ,keep all jo9+s at back4 ,sla% buckram f inside edge to headsize wire e half in*4 ,wire edge ( brim & cov] wire ) cr9ol9e--same me?od z us$ on sailor brim4 ,,to ,,cov] ,a ,,mu%room-,,%ap$ ,,brim-- ,if n v droop+1 x may be cov]$ )\t mak+ a seam 9 ! mat]ial4 ,to d ?is1 beg9 by plac+ ! corn] ( ! fabric on top at ! front ( ! brim4 ,p9 ! front1 back1 & ea* side1 always pull+ ) ! ?read ( ! mat]ial1 & p9 closely at edge1 ) p9s at "r angles to ! brim4 ,if cov]$ ) georgette1 sat9 or silk1 :i* is pliable1 ! fullness may all be work$ out )\t a seam4 ,ba/e close to headsize wire & f9i% edge by foll[+ same me?od z us$ 9 f9i%+ sailor brim4 ,also foll[ same me?od ) fac+4 ,if ! mat]ial us$ is n pliable1 or if ! brim is too droop+ to admit ( /ret*+ ! mat]ial smoo?ly1 a seam mu/ be made at ! back4 ,! me?od w\ld be ! same z us$ 9 cov]+ ! roll$ brim4 ,,%e] ,,mat]ials-- ,9 cov]+ ) any?+ z %e] z georgette1 x is advisable to l9e ) "s o!r mat]ial fir/4 ,! color c\ld be made deep] by us+ a l9+ ( ! same color1 or made pal] by l9+ ) :ite4 ,! l9+ %\ld be fitt$ & sew$ on ) ! outside mat]ial4 ,,patt]n ,,= ,,hat ,,) ,,roll$ ,,or ,,close-,,fitt+ ,,brim-- ,! patt]n = any hat is fir/ cut f a flat piece ( pap]4 ,! headsize is m>k$ z = flat sailor & ! headsize wire p9n$ on4 ,! patt]n is !n sla%$ 9 to headsize wire f ! outside edge1 ! sla%es lapp$ ov] & p9n$4 ,if ! hat is to be roll$ m closely on "o side ?an on ! o!r1 ! great] numb] ( sla%es mu/ be plac$ !re4 ,9 ?is way ! patt]n c be adju/$ to any desir$ %ape4 ,x is an advantage sometimes to cut ! pap] patt]n ?r\gh 9 ! back1 leav+ p9s 9 ! sla%es1 & lay out flat on ano!r piece ( pap] = a new patt]n4 ,?is elim9ates "s ( ! sla%es & makes fur!r exp]im5ts easi]4 ,patt]n-mak+ is v important1 & x is ( extreme value to make z _m patt]ns z possible be=e cutt+ ! f\ndation fabric4 ,*ang+ a patt]n ! slighte/ sometimes makes a great deal ( diff]5ce 9 its becom+ness4 ,( c\rse a brim may be *ang$ by add+ a sla% or two 9 ! buckram1 or by ins]t+ a ,v %ape to give m fl>e1 b ! few] seams ! bett] = ! hat frame4 ,a roll$ or close-fitt+ brim is m difficult to cov] ?an a sailor or mu%room %ape4 ,,to ,,cov] ,a ,,close-,,fitt+ ,,or ,,roll$ ,,brim-- ,place corn] ( mat]ial on top ( brim at front & p9 on ! edge4 ,always use ! same me?od ( p9n+ on ! edge z giv5 9 ! fir/ lesson4 ,draw ! mat]ial d[n to ! headsize wire & p94 ,"w ! mat]ial out smoo?ly t[>d ! left & p9 at ! edge2 also at ! headsize wire4 ,!n proce$ 9 ! same way t[>d ! "r1 always p9n+ closely4 ,be sure to keep ! mat]ial tight & smoo? bo? at edge & at ! headsize wire4 ,all[ ! fullness to g :]e x w4 ,! seam %\ld be locat$ at ! c5t] back4 ,cut away all sup]flu\s mat]ial1 all[+ ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* seam at ! c5t] back4 ,turn ! raw edges "u away f ea* o!r at ! seam & slip/it* toge!r neatly4 ,,to ,,slip/it* ,,seam-- ,br+ ne$le ?r\gh edge ( fold on "o side & ent] ! ne$le ?r\gh edge ( fold on o!r side exactly opposite4 ,slip ne$le along 9 ?is fold "o-eigh? ( an in*1 !n br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh to ! edge ( ! fold & take a /it* "o-eigh? ( an in* long 9 ! fold ( ! o!r side1 always be+ c>eful to beg9 ! /it* exactly opposite ! end ( ! "o prec$+4 ,try to cut ! mat]ial out f inside ! headsize wire 9 "o piece s t x may be us$ = some?+ else4 ,exam9e ! mat]ial c>efully to make sure t x fits p]fectly4 ,ba/e ) a /ab /it* close to ! headsize wire on ! outside2 remove all p9s z soon z possible4 ,aft] ba/+ ?is1 y w sometimes f9d t ! mat]ial ne$s a little m adju/+ at ! edge4 ,turn ! velvet ov] ! edge "o-f\r? in* & sew d[n ) an ov]ca/+ /it*4 ,,to ,,glue ,,velvet ,,to ,,! ,,brim-- ,:5 !re is a decid$ roll to a brim1 x is sometimes mo/ difficult to keep ! velvet smoo? & to make x lie close to ! brim1 s we resort to mill9]'s glue4 ,d n use glue on sat91 or on any fabric ?9n] ?an velvet1 or on any frame o!r ?an buckram4 ,c>e %\ld always be tak5 to h ! smoo? side ( ! buckram on top :5 ! velvet is to be glu$ on4 ,aft] fitt+ ! velvet c>efully & sew+ ! seam 9 ! back1 remove ! p9s f ! out] edge & ga!r ! velvet up inside ! headsize :]e x is to be held :ile ! glue is be+ spread on ! buckram4 ,! glue mu/ be spread v ev5ly4 ,x w make a neat] job to glue ! seam ( ! velvet op5 be=e go+ fur!r4 ,be v c>eful to keep ! glue away f ! "r side ( ! velvet4 ,next1 rub ! glue on ! frame ) a /iff bru% until x is smoo?1 !n spread ! velvet back into place1 press+ & smoo?+ x ) ! h&s f ! headsize wire out4 ,wat* x c>efully = any places :i* h n suffici5t glue1 z ! mat]ial may be rais$ be=e x is dry & m glue add$4 ,d n sew ! edge until ! glue has dri$4 ,usually x is only ! mat]ial on ! upp] side ( ! brim :i* ne$s glu+ d[n4 ,! fac+ may be put on z desir$4 ,sometimes ! top ( a cr[n has ind5tations1 & !n ! velvet may be glu$ to /ay 9 place4 ,! "u or out] fac+ may be fitt$ to a roll$ or close-fitt+ brim m easily ?an ! upp]4 ,beg9n+ at ! front ) ! corn] ( ! mat]ial1 p9 at ! edge & at ! headsize wire4 ,keep ! mat]ial smoo?2 "w f "r to left1 & !n f left to "r4 ,"w ! mat]ial ar\nd to :]e ! seam is to be made4 ,cut away all sup]flu\s mat]ial1 all[+ ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* = a seam4 ,slip/it* toge!r z on ! top & f9i% ! edge ov] wire4 ,:5ev] possible a seam %\ld be made on ! /raight ( ! mat]ial4 ,a ,,%irr$ ,,cr[n ,,( ,,fabric-- ,!re are two me?ods ( mak+ a %irr$ cr[n ( fabric 9 :i* taffeta1 sat91 georgette1 or velvet may be us$4 ,velvet is especially beautiful made up 9 ?is way4 ,! fir/ me?od is ! pref]r$4 ,cut a circul> piece ( mat]ial1 hav+ a diamet] ! l5g? ( ! cr[n f front to back1 measur+ ov] ! top f ! headsize wire1 plus f\r in*es4 ,on ! wrong side ( ! mat]ial m>k circles 7conc5tric7 "o-half in* ap>t1 aft] fir/ hav+ m>k$ a circle 9 ! c5t] ab\t ?ree in*es 9 diamet]4 ,ga!r on ! l9e ( ea* circle ) a f9e runn+ /it* & br+ ! ?read ?r\gh to ! "r side z ea* circle is complet$4 ,locate ! exact c5t] ( ! cr[n top & cut a small hole at ?is po9t4 ,pull ?read ( ! smalle/ circle up tight4 ,?is w =m a bag :i* %\ld be pull$ d[n ?r\gh ! hole made at ! c5t] ( ! cr[n top & sew$ securely 9 place4 ,! mat]ial %\ld be p9n$ d[n at f\r equal po9ts at ! edge ( ! cr[n1 ! ?reads ( ! o!r circles pull$ up until ! mat]ial fits ! cr[n snugly4 ,adju/ ! fullness ev5ly & sew 9 place4 ,?is is an excell5t way to use up old mat]ial :i* w\ld o!rwise %[ m>ks or any o!r defects4 ,! second me?od does n make z pleas+ an effect1 b may be us$ :5 ! mat]ial happ5s to be 9 su* %ape t a circle _c be cut f x4 ,a bias /rip ab\t eight in*es wide & long en\gh to rea* ar\nd ! cr[n1 plus ?ree or f\r in*es1 %\ld be jo9$ on ! l5g?wise ?read ( ! mat]ial4 ,! fir/ %irr+ or ga!r+ %\ld be "o-half in* f ! edge1 ! additional ?reads %\ld be run 9 ev5ly e half in*4 ,! fir/ ?read ne> ! edge %\ld !n be drawn up z tightly z possible & ?is edge pu%$ ?r\gh ! hole 9 ! top ( ! cr[n4 ,?is me?od w require a some:at l>g] op5+ ?an ! fir/4 ,! mat]ial is !n drawn d[n on ! outside & p9n$ to ! bottom ( ! cr[n2 ! ?reads are !n pull$ tight & firm & are fa/5$ (f4 ,next adju/ ! ga!rs ev5ly & sew 9 place4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,frames ,,( ,,nete5 ,,& ,,cr9ol9e ,lay ! patt]n on ! nete5 9 su* a way z to br+ ! bias :]e ! greate/ am\nt ( roll is to be1 !n cut mak+ ! same all[ances z if cut f buckram4 ,?is mat]ial %\ld be us$ d\ble to secure ! be/ results4 ,cut "o ?ickness fir/ & p9 ?is on ano!r piece 9 su* a way t ! w>p ?read ( "o piece w lie p>allel to ! wo( ?read ( ! o!r4 ,cut ! two pieces ! same size & be=e remov+ ! p9s ba/e closely all ov] ! brim ) f9e ?read1 mak+ "o in* /it*es4 ,f9e ?read %\ld be us$ = ?is z a co>se ?read might %[ ?r\gh ! cov]+4 ,,to ,,jo9 ,,! ,,seam ,,9 ,,! ,,back-- ,ins]t "o ?ickness betwe5 ! o!r two ends1 & back/it* closely4 ,?is me?od ought to make a fairly smoo? seam4 ,cov] ! seam ) a /rip ( cr9ol9e to smoo? x up4 ,,to ,,sew ,,edge ,,wire ,,on ,,nete5-- ,x is difficult to sew edge wire on nete54 ,a good result is obta9$1 h[ev]1 by sew+ ! wire directly on ! edge or by cov]+ ! edge fir/ ) cr9ol9e & sew+ ! wire on x4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 9 h&l+ nete5 to pres]ve ! %ape1 z x is v easily /ret*$ & pull$ out ( %ape :ile sew+ on ! edge wire4 ,! same me?od is us$ 9 cov]+ a nete5 frame z ) ! buckram frame4 ,! velvet1 if velvet is us$1 c be glu$ on1 b ! mat]ial is s por\s t x is n v satisfactory4 ,nete5 & cr9ol9e make excell5t f\ndations = braid hats1 z ^! mat]ials are light 9 weight1 s(t1 & pliable4 ,!y are also v satisfactory = *ildr5's hats4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,turban ,,frame ,,( ,,nete5 ,,or ,,cr9ol9e-- ,make ! side cr[n f a bias fold ( nete5 or cr9ol9e1 ! height desir$1 plus "o in*4 ,! l5g? %\ld be ! headsize measurem5t plus "o-half in*4 ,?is all[s = a t9y fl>e next to ! face :i* is usually m becom+4 ,jo9 ! ends ( bias /rips on ! w>p ?read4 ,,to ,,wire ,,turban ,,fl>e-- ,sew ! headsize wire "o in* f ! bottom1 be+ c>eful n to /ret* or full ! mat]ial4 ,cut ano!r piece ( brace wire "o or two in*es l>g] ?an headsize wire & sew on ! raw edge at ! bottom1 /ret*+ ! fabric to fit if a fl>e is desir$4 ,a roll may be made by slightly full+ ! fabric on to ! wire1 :i* mu/ be small] ?an = a fl>e4 ,if ! side ( ! cr[n is to be curv$ 9 slightly1 ?is is easily done by tap+ ! side ab\t halfway betwe5 ! top & ! bottom1 draw+ ! tape z tight z is necess>y4 ,next p9 ! tape & sew 9 place4 ,sew ano!r wire high en\gh above ! tape to make ! cr[n ! requir$ height4 ,if ! cr[n is to be fl>$ a little at top1 sew ! wire inside & /ret* ! mat]ial z mu* z desir$4 ,if ! top ( ! cr[n is to be drawn 91 sew ! wire on ! outside1 mak+ ! cr[n slightly small] at ! top4 ,if suffici5t mat]ial is all[$ at ! top ! extra am\nt may be drawn up ov] a small circle ( wire to make ! cr[n top1 b an extra piece cut = ?is purpose is m satisfactory4 ,a smoo? cr[n may be made f an extra piece sew$ ov] ! top aft] ! side is f9i%$4 ,,cov]+ ,,turbans-- ,turbans are becom+ to _m types & are p>ticul>ly suitable = ! matron4 ,gay cov]+s are us$ on !m (t5 :5 !y w\ld be out ( place on a l>g] hat4 ,h[ev]1 any mat]ial may be us$2 braids1 alone or 9 comb9ation ) fabric4 ,velvets1 georgette1 sat91 & taffeta are us$4 ,a turban cov]$ entirely ) fl[]s sew$ d[n flat makes a *>m+ hat3 ! l[] edge inv>iably looks bett] if fir/ b\nd ) a bias piece ( velvet no matt] :at ! cov]+ may be--x seems to give a s(t] look ar\nd ! face4 ,a r\nd cr[n ( buckram makes a good turban frame if a bias /rip ( cr9ol9e an in* wide is sew$ to ! l[] edge to give a little fl>e4 ,a frame ( ?is k9d may be drap$ ) velvet1 sat91 georgette1 or any pliable mat]ial1 & :5 skillfully done ! effect is beautiful inde$4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,wire ,,frames ,,equipm5t ,brace wire or frame wire ,tie wire ,sprung wire ,pli]s ,,to ,,op5 ,,coil ,,( ,,wire-- ,hold ! coil 9 ! left h&2 unfa/5 & all[ x to loos5 gradually 9 ! h&2 pass x ov] ! arm & knock x until ! coils sep>ate4 ,,to ,,cut ,,wire-- ,place wire firmly & squ>ely betwe5 ! jaws ( ! pli]s at ! po9t :]e !y cut & press /raight d[n4 ,be sure to cut ) ! fir/ attempt2 o!rwise1 if ! wire is haggl$ (f1 ! pli]s are injur$ & ! cov]+ loos5$ at ! ends ( ! wire :i* w make x impossible to tie !m toge!r4 ,,to ,,/raight5 ,,wire-- ,pass ! wire betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ) a sweep+ motion4 ,a piece ( clo? or pap] may be held 9 ! h& if ! f+]s become t5d]4 ,d n make small d5ts 9 ! wire 9 attempt+ to /raight5 x1 z x w be impossible to remove !m4 ,,to ,,tie ,,wire-- ,ends ( brace wire p>allel4 ,"r angles ti$ diagonally4 ,brace wire ti$ )\t use ( tie wire4 ,be=e beg9n+ to make a frame ( wire1 "t w be sav$ & necess>y exp]i5ce ga9$ by ty+ a few %ort pieces ( wire1 until a /rong jo9t c be made4 ,cut fifty pieces or m ( tie wire ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* long4 ,cut two pieces ( brace or frame wire two or ?ree in*es long4 ,lap ! ends ( ! heavy wire "o in*1 !n lap "o ( ^! pieces ( tie wire ar\nd once z close to ! end ( ! brace wire z is possible4 ,hold 9 ! left h& & ) ! end ( ! pli]s grasp ! ends ( ! tie wire z close to ! brace wire z possible & twi/ tightly until ! jo9t feels firm4 ,place pli]s back a little & twi/ sev]al times until a little cable is =m$4 ,cut ?is (f1 leav+ an eigh?-in* end4 ,press ?is end d[n flat ) ! jaws ( ! pli]s4 ,tie ! o!r end 9 ! same mann]4 ,practice ?is until a satisfactory jo9t c be made ) ease1 be=e attempt+ to make a frame ( wire4 ,illu/ration3 ,,to ,,tie ,,two ,,wires ,,) ,,tie ,,wire ,illu/ration3 ,,to ,,tie ,,two ,,wires ,,diagonally ,,) ,,use ,,( ,,tie ,,wire ,illu/ration3 ,,me?od ,,( ,,mak+ ,,pap] ,,patt]n ,,= ,,droop+ ,,brim ,illu/ration3 ,,me?od ,,( ,,p9n+ ,,fabric ,,on ,,droop+ ,,brim ,illu/ration3 ,,braid-,,cov]$ ,,brim ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,fill+ ,,9 ,,%ort ,,l5g?s ,,:5 ,,! ,,diff]5ce ,,9 ,,wid? ,,( ,,! ,,two ,,sides ,,is ,,v ,,great ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n ,,p9n$ ,,9 ,,pleats ,,= ,,%ap$ ,,brims ,,( ,,fabric4 ,,illu/ration ,,%[s ,,patt]n ,,p9n$ ,,on ,,buckram ,,ready ,,to ,,cut ,,to ,,fa/5 ,,two ,,pieces ,,( ,,brace ,,wire ,,diagonally-- ,,to ,,fa/5 ,,two ,,pieces ,,( ,,brace ,,wire ,,)\t ,,! ,,use ,,( ,,tie ,,wire-- ,hold ! /r& ( wire aga9/ ! wire to :i* x is to be fa/5$1 at "r angles to x1 ) ab\t two & "o-half or ?ree in*es ext5d+ beyond ! po9t at :i* ! twi/ is to be made4 ,press ! end /raight backw>d1 close to & p>allel ) ! o!r end ( ! wire4 ,! end %\ld pass once & a half ar\nd4 ,use ! jaws ( ! pli]s to press p>allel wires 9 ! twi/ toge!r1 & to tight5 ! twi/4 ,cut ! end (f close & use ! pli]s to press ! end d[n flat4 ,,to ,,make ,,wire ,,frame ,,= ,,hat ,,hav+ ,,flat ,,brim ,,& ,,squ>e ,,cr[n-- ,always rememb] t x w greatly simplify ! "w fir/ to make a pap] patt]n = e hat4 ,a hat is seldom made ) all sections ( ! brim ( equal wid?1 & ?is is "o important reason :y x is m satisfactory fir/ to make a pap] patt]n4 ,,patt]n ,,= ,,brim-- ,make a patt]n ! same z = a /raight-brim sailor1 be+ c>eful to fold ! patt]n 9 halves f front to back1 & to crease %>ply4 ,fold ! halves into f\r?s & ! f\r?s into eigh?s & crease4 ,?is is to det]m9e ! position ( ! wire spokes 9 ! brim4 ,! eight creases w correspond to ! eight spokes 9 ! brim2 ?is is ! correct numb] ( spokes4 ,,headsize ,,wire ,,= ,,wire ,,frame-- ,a wire frame ne$s two headsize wires1 s cut two j alike1 rememb]+ always t ! headsize wire is ! mo/ important wire 9 any hat1 z ! com=t ( ! we>] dep5ds ^u ! measurem5ts tak5 = ?is wire4 ,measure z = ! headsize 9 a fabric hat1 lapp+ ! ends "o in*1 & ty+ !m4 ,try on ^! wires & %ape to fit ! head4 ,!y %\ld usually be elongat$ two in*es4 ,p9 ! headsize wire on ! pap] patt]n1 plac+ ! jo9+ on ! back crease & ! exact c5t] front ( wire on ! front crease2 next p9 ! sides securely1 be+ c>eful to keep ! wire %ap$ to fit ! head4 ,all[ "o-half in* inside ( wire & sla% e half in* out to headsize wire4 ,! patt]n may n[ be tri$ on ! head = any necess>y alt]ations4 ,! brim patt]n may be add$ to or cut away4 ,,work+ ,,measurem5ts ,,ne$$-- ,make a p5cil m>k on ! patt]n ar\nd ! headsize wire4 ,be=e remov+ ! wire1 m>k ! eight diff]5t po9ts :]e x crosses ! creases 9 ! pap] patt]n4 ,remove ! wire f ! patt]n4 ,,/icks ,,= ,,brim-- ,/raight5 & cut f\r pieces ( frame wire ! l5g? ( ! diamet] ( ! brim plus ?ree in*es = f9i%+4 ,place "o ( ^! /icks across ! headsize wire f front to back on ! m>ks made by ! p5cil1 all[+ ! ends to ext5d an equal l5g?4 ,fa/5 to ! headsize wire ) tie wire4 ,place ! next /ick f side to side1 jo9+ on ! p5cil m>ks4 ,! two rema9+ /icks :5 plac$ on ! rema9+ m>ks divide ! circle into eigh?s4 ,?is is call$ ! skeleton ( ! brim2 ! wires are nam$ front1 back1 "r side1 left side1 "r side front1 "r side back1 left side front1 left side back4 ,! position ( ^! ends or spokes %\ld correspond to ! creases 9 ! pap] patt]n1 & ! l5g? ( ea* "o %\ld be det]m9$ by measur+ ! correspond+ crease on ! patt]n4 ,,edge ,,wire-- ,cut a circle ( brace wire ! exact l5g? ( ! circumf]5ce ( ! brim plus "o in* = lap & tie4 ,lay ?is close to ! edge ( ! patt]n & m>k on x ) p5cil :]e ea* crease t\*es x1 always keep+ ! ti$ ends on ! back crease4 ,if ^! measurem5ts are c>efully made1 ! brim w be exactly l ! patt]n4 ,,to ,,jo9 ,,edge ,,wire-- ,beg9 at ! back & place ! m>k on ! edge wire on ! back spoke at ! p5cil m>k4 ,twi/ ! end ( ! spoke once & a half ar\nd ! edge wire1 us+ ! jaws ( ! pli]s to tight5 ! twi/4 ,cut ! end (f close & press ! cut end flat ) ! pli]s4 ,next f9i% ! c5t] front spoke1 !n ! sides & ^? 9 betwe54 ,a great deal dep5ds ^u accuracy 9 mak+ an acceptable wire frame4 ,add z _m circles ( wire betwe5 ! edge wire & ! headsize wire z desir$1 fa/5+ to ! spokes ) tie wire4 ,keep all wire laps at ! back on ! c5t] spoke4 ,,coll> ,,( ,,brim-- ,cut ! wire inside ( ! headsize wire 9 ! c5t]4 ,twi/ ^! wires once & a half ar\nd ! headsize wire1 br++ ! ends up at "r angles to ! headsize wire4 ,jo9 ! second headsize wire to ! top ( ^! wires1 us+ ! same me?od z = jo9+ ! edge wire4 ,?is coll> may be made v l[ or z high z ! wires w p]mit4 ,a sep>ate cr[n ( wire is n always us$ 9 a hat cov]$ ) v %e] mat]ial or %e] braid4 ,9 su* a case ! coll> w\ld be made z high z possible to make a support = ! cr[n trimm+4 ,,squ>e ,,cr[n ,,= ,,wire ,,frame-- ,/raight5 ! brace wire & cut f\r /icks or pieces long en\gh to rea* f ! base ( ! cr[n at ! front up ov] ! propos$ cr[n to ! base ( ! cr[n at ! back1 all[+ eight in*es = f9i%+4 ,cut & jo9 a small circle ( brace wire--ab\t ?ree in*es 9 diamet]--= ! cr[n top4 ,lay ! f\r /icks across ?is circle divid+ x into eight equal sections z at ! beg9n+ ( ! brim1 & jo9 to ! /icks ) tie wire4 ,cut a piece ( brace wire "o in* small] ?an ! headsize wire4 ,lap ! ends & tie ?is wire4 ,elongate slightly4 ,jo9 to ! /icks outside ( ! small circle4 ,keep all lapp$ ends ( circles on ! c5t] back spoke4 ,b5d spokes d[n ov] ?is circle1 !n measure d[n f ?is circle = ! height ( cr[n & m>k on spokes ) p5cil4 ,be v accurate4 ,,base ,,wire ,,= ,,cr[n-- ,measure & cut a l5g? ( brace wire "o-half in* long] ?an = ! headsize wire4 ,lap ! ends "o in* & jo9 ) tie wire4 ,! base wire ( any sep>ate cr[n mu/ be l>ge en\gh to fit ov] ! headsize wire on ! brim4 ,place ?is circle1 aft] hav+ %ap$ x l ! headsize wire1 on ! inside ( ! spokes at ! po9t m>k$1 beg9n+ at ! c5t] back1 & f9i% z any edge wire by twi/+ ! ends ( ! spokes once & a half ar\nd ! wire4 ,press ! wires d[n tight ) ! pli]s4 ,cut ! ends (f close & press flat ) ! jaws ( ! pli]s4 ,_m m circles may be add$ & ti$ on ) tie wire if desir$2 also m spokes may be add$4 ,?is w\ld be desirable if ! frame is to be cov]$ ) braid1 or if us$ = block+ fabric = frames4 ,,transp>5t ,,hats-- ,if a wire frame is to be cov]$ ) ?9 mat]ial1 great c>e & ?\ght %\ld be giv5 to ! frame1 = x !n =ms "p ( ! design ( ! hat4 ,a f9] wire is sometimes us$ 9 ?is case1 or a beautiful frame may be made = ?9 mat]ials by us+ a sat9-cov]$ cable wire1 & us+ z few wires z possible4 ,x may seem advisable aft] a wire frame is made to cut away "s ( ! wires4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,r\nd ,,cr[n ,,( ,,wire ,a r\nd cr[n is "o :i* r\nds f tip to base4 ,fir/ /raight51 measure1 & cut f\r /icks ( brace wire1 z = squ>e cr[n1 ( ! ord9>y l5g?1 all[+ = f9i%+4 ,cut & jo9 ! ends ( a %ort piece ( brace wire five or six in*es long4 ,?is makes a small circle = ! top ( ! cr[n4 ,beg9 by ty+ ! /icks across ?is circle "u x1 divid+ x into halves1 qu>t]s1 & eigh?s1 be+ c>eful t ! divisions are made accurately & t ! /icks ext5d an equal l5g? f ! circle4 ,keep ^! wires flat across ?is circle4 ,! /icks may n[ be curv$ d[n4 ,x is sometimes f\nd easi] to atta* ! base wire at ?is po9t be=e add+ o!r circles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fancy ,,cr[n-,,tip ,,( ,,braid ,illu/ration3 ,,roll+ ,,wire ,,brim4 ,,eight ,,spokes ,,m ,,may ,,be ,,us$ ,,& ,,z ,,_m ,,circles ,,z ,,wi%$1 ,,accord+ ,,to ,,! ,,cov]+ ,,us$ ,illu/ration3 ,,r\nd ,,cr[n ,,( ,,wire ,,base ,,wire-- ,cut a piece ( brace wire "o-half in* long] ?an ! wire us$ = ! headsize wire4 ,lap ! ends "o in*4 ,make ?is ! same %ape z ! headsize wire & te/ ! size by try+ x on ov] ! headsize wire on ! brim = :i* ! cr[n is made4 ,an ord9>y height = a r\nd cr[n w\ld be sev5 in*es f tip to base wire1 b to be safe1 x is always bett] to measure ! head4 ,sometimes1 on acc\nt ( an abundance ( hair or a high coiffure1 a great] height is ne$$4 ,if ! base wire is elongat$ to fit ! head1 ! side measurem5t f ! tip to ! base ( ! cr[n w be f\nd %ort] ?an f ! tip to ! front & ! back4 ,x w be mo/ helpful to take an old cr[n :i* has an elongat$ headsize & ei!r measure x & "w f ! measures or else "w ov] x4 ,! cr[n mu/ be ev5 at ! bottom :5 f9i%$1 & :5 plac$ ^u ! table mu/ re/ ev5ly4 ,! base wire may be ti$ ) tie wire on ! front & back spokes & on ea* side spoke until ! circles betwe5 x & ! cr[n tip are add$4 ,x w !n be f\nd easy to adju/ x be=e f9i%+ (f ! wires2 i4e41 ! cr[n may be made high] or l[]4 ,,circles ,,or ,,hoops-- ,add ?ree circles ( wire betwe5 ! base wire & ! small circle at ! top4 ,! fir/ circle j above ! base wire %\ld be ( ! same size4 ,keep all wire laps at ! back4 ,! o!r two circles w con=m to ! %ape ( ! cr[n & w be f\nd to be a little fur!r ap>t at ! front & back ?an at ! sides4 ,,to ,,f9i% ,,! ,,base ,,( ,,! ,,cr[n-- ,! spokes ( ! cr[n may n[ be turn$ out %>ply :]e ! base wire is to be fa/5$ & f9i%$ (f ! same z ! edge wire on ! brim4 ,a ,,%ap$ ,,wire ,,frame ,,made ,,9 ,,"o ,,piece-- ,! simple/ wire frame :i* is %ap$ at all is ! mu%room %ape or "o t droops a little4 ,be=e beg9n+ ?is hat x w be f\nd easi] to h a patt]n = ! brim1 b x w n be necess>y to make a patt]n = ! cr[n1 :i* may be ei!r r\nd or squ>e1 & = :i* directions h already be5 giv54 ,,patt]n ,,= ,,brim-- ,make a patt]n ( manila pap] = ! brim ! same z = a fabric %ape1 foll[+ ! same directions4 ,x may droop only a v little or fit q close4 ,9 ei!r case ! me?od is ! same4 ,p9 ! headsize wire on ?is patt]n & try on to %ape4 ,m>k on ! wire at ! po9t :]e ! creases t\* ! wire4 ,x is important n to hurry at ?is po9t4 ,make _m patt]ns & !n *oose ! mo/ becom+ "o4 ,aft] ! patt]n is p]fect$1 crease x %>ply ! same z 9 ! sailor brim4 ,take all ! measurem5ts f ?is patt]n & use !m 9 m>k+ ! wires4 ,?is brim patt]n is n ne$$ until ! cr[n has be5 made4 ,9 mak+ a wire frame 9 "o piece1 we beg9 at ! top ( ! cr[n & "w d[n4 ,,cr[n-- ,measure f\r /icks z = ! cr[n 9 ! prec$+ lesson1 plus ! wid? ( ! brim1 plus six in*es = f9i%+4 ,?is is ample to f9i% bo? ends ( wire1 b on acc\nt ( ! ends easily becom+ fray$ x is bett] to h a g5]\s all[ance4 ,beg9 at ! cr[n tip & "w d[n until ready = ! headsize wire4 ,! la/ wire is or %\ld be ( ! same size z ! regul> headsize wire4 ,place ! lap ( ! headsize wire on ! back spoke ( ! cr[n & jo9 by twi/+ ! spokes once & a half ar\nd4 ,jo9 ! front & rema9+ spokes 9 ! same way1 be+ c>eful to jo9 :]e ! wire 0 m>k$ at ! creases on ! patt]n4 ,,brim-- ,we are n[ ready to make use ( ! measurem5ts tak5 f ! patt]n4 ,m>k ! l5g? ( ea* spoke ) a p5cil2 ! di/ance !y are to be ap>t %\ld be m>k$ on ! edge wire4 ,^! measurem5ts are tak5 f ! patt]n4 ,f9i% ! edge ! same z ! sailor brim4 ,add z _m circles betwe5 ! edge wire & ! headsize wire z desir$4 ,we h n[ made 9 wire ! fir/ v>iation f a p]fectly flat brim4 ,always make a patt]n be=e mak+ a wire frame except :5 copy+ & !n measurem5ts may be tak5 f ! hat to be copi$4 ,"h are "s ( ! reasons :y ! patt]n is important3 fir/1 x may be tri$ on & ?is helps to decide if ! /yle is becom+1 be=e work+ x out 9 wire2 second1 ! position ( ! wires may be det]m9$ & m>k$ on ! pap] patt]n2 ?ird1 ! m "w done f a pap] patt]n ! easi] x w be to copy2 f\r?1 x tra9s ! eye1 ?us mak+ free-h& "w mu* easi]4 ,a ,,roll+ ,,brim-- ,:e!r ! hat is made 9 "o piece or ) a sep>ate brim1 ! same me?od is us$4 ,fir/1 z always1 ! pap] patt]n4 ,if ! brim is to roll closely on "o side & mu* high] ?an on ! o!r1 extra wires w be ne$$ to fill ! space4 ,! place = ^! may be det]m9$ on ! pap] patt]n4 ,!y may g all ! way ar\nd1 be+ br\ght m closely toge!r on ! l[ side or only "p way ar\nd z 9 ! illu/ration4 ,wire frame mak+ requires mu* pati5ce & practice4 ,x is an art j z all mill9]y is an art4 ,l9es are all important4 ,because ( ?is ,i urge mu* patt]n mak+4 ,ev5 ?\gh "o may n h ! fundam5tal pr9ciples ( art1 some?+ really good (t5 develops & we f9d we h built bett] ?an we knew4 ,x /imulates orig9ality1 b we mu/ "w )\t fe>4 ,,to ,,color ,,wire ,,frames-- ,wires come 9 bo? black & :ite4 ,a :ite frame may be color$ to mat* any %e] fabric us$ = its cov]+4 ,x w be f\nd to be m simple to color ! frame aft] x is made4 ,any ( ! cold or soap dyes may be us$4 ,if ^! are n available1 a piece ( velvete5 soak$ 9 alcohol & rubb$ on ! frame w give ( its color suffici5tly to t9t ! wire4 ,crepe pap] may also be us$1 or wat]-color pa9ts4 ,r\ge may be us$ effectively if moi/5$4 ,!re are also gold & silv] wires :i* may be us$ = frames :5 desir$1 & :i* w add to ! beauty ( ! design4 ,if !y _c be pur*as$1 a frame ( :ite wire may be gild$ by us+ liquid gilt1 apply+ x to ! frame ) a small bru%4 ,,halo ,,hat ,,brims-- ,halo brims may be made f any fabric1 b to be effective ! mat]ial %\ld be %e]4 ,mal9es1 nets1 georgette crepe1 or *iffon are all us$ to good effect 9 mak+ ?is /yle ( hat4 ,good-look+ halo brims h be5 made f old georgette wai/s1 us+ ! back = ! brim & ! front & sleeves = ! cr[n4 ,only two wires are us$ 9 mak+ ?is brim1 ! edge wire & ! headsize wire4 ,! size ( ! brim is to be det]m9$ & !n a hoop ( sprung wire cut j ! l5g? ( ! circumf]5ce ( ! brim4 ,?is wire is uncov]$2 ! ends j meet & are jo9$ by ! use ( a little clamp1 ! ends be+ ins]t$ & press$ d[n ) ! jaws ( ! pli]s4 ,place ! mat]ial f :i* ! brim is to be made ^u a flat surface4 ,if ( mal9e1 sev]al ?icknesses may be us$4 ,fa/5 ?is mat]ial d[n to ! table slightly ) p9s or ?umb tacks4 ,lay a circle ( sprung wire on ! mat]ial & p9 9 place4 ,beg9 by p9n+ ! back1 front1 & !n ea* side1 be+ c>eful n to pull ! wire out ( %ape4 ,take ! "w up & p9 ! mat]ial closely all ar\nd ! edge4 ,cut (f1 all[+ "o-qu>t] ( an in* to turn ov] ! wire4 ,sew to ! wire closely ) an ov]ca/+ /it* or ) a runn+ /it* j inside ( ! wire4 ,! edge may be b\nd ) a fold ( ! same mat]ial1 a fold ( sat9 or "o r[ ( braid4 ,,headsize ,,wire ,,= ,,halo ,,brim-- ,?is headsize wire is made ( frame wire4 ,fir/ measure1 !n cut1 jo9 ends1 & %ape z = any hat4 ,lay ! headsize wire on ! mat]ial1 hav+ ! jo9+ at ! back4 ,! front & ! back ( ! brim1 if ( equal wid?1 w be some:at n>r[] ?an ! side because ( ! elongat$ headsize wire2 h[ev]1 ! headsize wire may be plac$ on ! brim 9 any position desir$4 ,p9 9 place & sew ) an ov]ca/+ /it*4 ,trim ! mat]ial inside ! headsize wire1 leav+ an ext5sion ( "o-qu>t] ( an in* to turn ov]2 x w be f\nd necess>y to sew ?is d[n ov] ! wire1 mak+ ! edge m secure4 ,ano!r me?od ( mak+ a halo brim is accompli%$ by cutt+ a piece ( mat]ial on ! bias1 twice z wide z ! brim & z long z ! circumf]5ce4 ,/ret* ?is piece ( mat]ial1 !n p9 ! c5t] ( ! /rip ov] ! edge wire1 ga!r ! raw edges to fit ! headsize wire & sew 9 place4 ,?is me?od does n make a smoo? brim1 b is m quickly made4 ,:5 two ?icknesses ( %e] mat]ial are us$ = halo brims a v pretty effect is obta9$ by plac+ flat fl[]s1 petals ( fl[]s1 or fea!rs betwe5 ! two mat]ials4 ,,cr[n ,,= ,,halo ,,brim-- ,?is may be v %e]1 al?\gh a halo brim may be us$ on a braid or sat9 cr[n if desir$4 ,a wire cr[n = a halo brim usually consi/s ( a m]e coll> ( frame wire sev]al in*es high4 ,?is is sew$ to ! headsize wire4 ,! cov]+ = ! cr[n is usually made 9 ! %ape ( a circle ab\t f\rte5 in*es 9 diamet]1 ) ! same numb] ( ?icknesses z ! brim4 ,ga!r "o-qu>t] ( an in* f ! edge1 adju/ fullness & sew to ! headsize wire4 ,! height ( ! cr[n dep5ds ^u ! /yle ( hair dress+4 ,place a b& ( ! same mat]ial z ! cr[n1 or a n>r[ ribbon1 ar\nd ! base ( ! cr[n = trimm+ & to conceal ! wires4 ,a wir$ b[ ( ! %e] mat]ial may be us$ v effectively4 7,see *apt] on ,b[s47 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,hat ,,cov]+s ,,to ,,cov] ,,) ,,braid-- ,great c>e & pati5ce mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 cov]+ a hat ) /raw braid4 ,! l9es :i* are to be emphasiz$ %\ld be c>efully /udi$1 z !re are sev]al me?ods us$ 9 lay+ ! braid on ! frames4 7,see illu/ration47 ,! /it* us$ = sew+ braid is always ! same--a v %ort /it* on ! "r side1 & a /it* "o-qu>t] ( an in* long on ! wrong side4 ,! ?read mu/ n be pull$ too tight1 or ! position ( ! /it*es may be se52 also always mat* ! ?read to ! /raw4 ,/raw braid may be sew$ to a will[1 buckram1 nete51 or cr9ol9e frame except :5 a v s(t hat is desir$2 x may !n be sew$ & %ap$ ov] a wire or buckram frame1 b n on to x1 z x is to be remov$ f ! frame aft] sew+2 or1 if ! braid is co>se1 x may be sew$ to a wire frame :i* has be5 previ\sly cov]$ ) cr9ol9e or mull4 7,see illu/ration47 ,illu/ration3 ,,"o ,,me?od ,,( ,,/>t+ ,,! ,,braid ,,on ,,cr[n ,,& ,,sew+ ,,9 ,,place ,_m hats h a brim fac$ ) /raw1 :ile a fabric is us$ on top4 ,9 ?is case ! braid mu/ be put on fir/ 9 ord] t ! /it*es may be tak5 ?r\gh ! brim1 :i* ! fabric on top w cov]4 ,,to ,,p9 ,,9 ,,place ,,on ,,! ,,frame-- ,place ! out] edge ( ! /raw ev5 ) ! out] edge ( ! brim1 beg9n+ at ! c5t] back1 all[+ ?ree in*es to ext5d to ! "r4 ,p9 9 place & ba/e all ! way ar\nd until ! c5t] back is rea*$4 ,curve ! second r[ gradually up f ! c5t] back2 d n make an abrupt curve1 until ! correct lap is rea*$1 usually "o-eigh? ( an in*4 ,!re w be f\nd a ?read at ! edge ( mo/ braids :i* may be pull$ up to take out ! extra fullness :5 sew$ on a curve4 ,! outside edge ( ! fir/ r[ mu/ be left free = ! edge ( ! fabric1 :i* cov]s ! o!r side1 to be slipp$ "u4 ,d n beg9 sew+ until ! second r[ is ba/$ 9 place4 ,,to ,,sew-- ,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! edge ( ! braid at ! lap f ! "u side & take a t9y /it*1 /abb+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! braid & ! buckram2 ! small /it* on ! "r side w be hidd5 if ! ?read is n pull$ too tight4 ,take a /it* on ! wrong side f "o-qu>t] to "o-half an in* 9 l5g?1 dep5d+ ^u ! wid? & quality ( ! braid4 ,cont9ue ba/+ & sew+ ! braid until ! headsize is rea*$ & ! braid ext5ds up above ! headsize wire "o in*4 ,if ! brim is wid] at "s po9ts ?an at o!rs1 ! wid] side mu/ be fill$ 9 ) %ort /rips foll[+ ! same curve1 be+ c>eful t ! ends are left long en\gh to ext5d up beyond ! headsize wire "o in*4 ,:5 ! brim is v mu* wid] at "s po9ts1 %ort pieces ( braid may be work$ 9 at int]vals z ! braid is sew$2 ?is w\ld n make su* an abrupt curve1 & ! g5]al l9es ( ! braid w\ld be m pleas+4 ,:5 "o side ( ! brim is to be cov]$ ) fabric1 fit ?is to ! brim1 ba/e at ! headsize wire & cut ! edge1 all[+ "o-qu>t] ( an in* to lap ov] ! edge4 ,remove ! ba/+ f ! fir/ r[ ( braid & tuck ! edge ( ! fabric "u4 ,p9 & slip/it* to place ?r\gh ! /raw4 ,,bo? ,,sides ,,( ,,brim ,,cov]$ ,,) ,,braid-- ,all[ ! fir/ r[s to project slightly beyond ! edge ( ! brim bo? on ! top & ! bottom4 ,^! edges may be br\ght toge!r ) a small slant+ /it*1 or if pref]r$ ! edge may be fir/ b\nd ) a bias piece ( sat91 or ) a r[ ( braid or gay-color$ mat]ial4 ,if ! edge ( ! brim is b\nd1 ! edges ( ! fir/ r[s ( braid at ! top & bottom w\ld n meet4 ,! b\nd edge ?us %[+ gives ! effect ( a cord4 ,,to ,,cov] ,a ,,cr[n ,,) ,,braid-- ,beg9 at ! bottom ( ! cr[n1 slant+ ! second r[ (f f ! fir/ r[ ! same z on ! brim4 ,pull ! braid up ) ! ?read 7:i* w be f\nd on ! edge ( ne>ly e braid7 & sew until ! c5t] ( ! cr[n tip is rea*$1 :5 a hole 9 ! top ( ! cr[n may be made & ! end pu%$ ?r\gh & fa/5$ on ! und]side4 ,keep ! braid full en\gh s t x w lie flat all ! way4 ,sometimes x is easi] to beg9 sew+ ! braid on at ! v c5t] ( ! top ( ! cr[n1 or a few r[s may be sew$ to a small circle ( cr9ol9e be=e atta*+ to ! top ( ! cr[n4 ,if a braid is us$ :i* is compos$ ( f\r or five small] braids sew$ toge!r1 ! me?od is ! same until ! cr[n tip is rea*$ or a place :]e x is impossible to make ! braid lie flat4 ,! braid mu/ !n be sep>at$ into ! small] /r&s & "o cut (f at a "t1 & ea* end lapp$ "u ! prec$+ /r&2 proce$ ) ! rema9+ /r&s1 cutt+ "o (f at a "t until only "o rema9s to f9i% ! c5t] )4 ,:5 ! cr[n tip is complet$1 pu% ! rema9+ end ?r\gh a hole 9 ! c5t] ( ! cr[n tip & sew to ! inside ( ! cr[n4 ,:5 us+ ?is k9d ( braid ! op]ation may be rev]s$1 beg9n+ at ! c5t] ( ! top & cov]+ a small circle ( buckram ) braid2 press x ) a w>m iron to flatt5 x1 !n sew 9 place on ! cr[n & complete ! cov]+4 ,?is seems ! easi] me?od1 because ! top ( ! cr[n w look mu* bett] if press$ & ?is w be f\nd h>d to d unless begun on a small sep>ate piece ( buckram4 ,,to ,,piece ,,braid-- ,sometimes a braid mu/ be piec$ at a conspicu\s po9t on ! hat1 :5 c>eful h&l+ w be f\nd necess>y4 ,if ! braid is compos$ ( sev]al small] braids sew$ toge!r1 ! ends %\ld be ripp$ ap>t = sev]al in*es & ! /r&s cut 9 unequal l5g?s2 also ! /r&s ( ! o!r end :i* is to be jo9$ to x %\ld be cut ( su* l5g? z to meet ! correspond+ ends & all[ a lap ( "o in*4 ,! ends cut 9 ?is way may be tuck$ "u "o at a "t )\t ! jo9+ be+ noticeable4 ,if ! braid is v wide x may seem be/ :5 cov]+ a frame to cut & jo9 ! ends ( ! r[ ( braid4 ,x w\ld !n be bett] to make a /raight jo9+ 9 ! back4 ,if a fancy braid is to be piec$1 ! ends are lapp$ diagonally & sew$ flat4 ,if a fancy jo9+ is "p ( ! design1 a simple "o is to lap ! ends to look z ?\gh wov54 ,?is may be employ$ on a cr[n or brim or bo?1 & x !n becomes a "p ( ! design4 ,also ! top ( ! cr[n or any "p ( ! hat may h a wov5 cov]+ ( braid1 b any su* fancy me?od requires an additional am\nt ( braid4 ,! top ( ! cr[n may be cov]$ by lay+ ! braid on /raight f front to back1 all[+ ! ends to ext5d d[n on ! side cr[n an in* or m4 ,! braid ( ! side cr[n %\ld cov] ^! ends4 ,! brim ( a n>r[ hat is (t5 cov]$ ) %ort l5g?s ( braid radiat+ f ! headsize wire1 ! ends ext5d+ up on ! cr[n "o in*4 ,a fabric is (t5 comb9$ ) braid = ! sake ( design1 or if !re is an insuffici5t quantity ( braid4 ,,cr[n ,,top ,,( ,,braid1 ,,side ,,cr[n ,,( ,,fabric-- ,,side ,,cr[n ,,( ,,braid ,,& ,,top ,,( ,,fabric-- ,,b& ,,( ,,mat]ial1 ,,pla9 ,,or ,,cord$1 ,,set ,,9 ,,side ,,cr[n-- ,,brim ,,& ,,cr[n ,,made ,,f ,,small ,,pieces ,,( ,,silk ,,& ,,braid-- ,a v s(t-look+ braid hat may be made by sew+ braid ov] a wire f\ndation :i* has be5 made = ! purpose4 ,! braid may be p9n$ on ! brim ( wire & sew$1 be+ c>eful n to atta* ! braid to ! frame2 slip ! ne$le ov] ! wire & f9i% sew+ ! braid :ile x is /ill p9n$ to ! brim1 !n remove1 press slightly1 & sew a fac+ ( braid to ! "u side ( ! brim if desir$4 ,"s k9ds ( braid may be damp5$ be=e press+1 b x is saf] to exp]im5t fir/ ) a small piece1 = "s braid is ru9$ by press+4 ,a s(t cr[n ( braid %\ld be fitt$ ov] a wire cr[n & sew$ 9 ! same way4 ,aft] remov+ x f ! wire frame1 x c be slightly press$ by hold+ x ov] a ?ick clo? held 9 ! h& & press+ a w>m iron to ! outside4 ,a s(t hat ( braid c m easily be made by fir/ mak+ a frame ( cr9ol9e & sew+ ! braid to x4 ,horsehair braid cr[ns are beautiful :5 %ap$ ov] a wire f\ndation4 ,!y may be press$ slightly 7aft] be+ remov$ f ! wire cr[n ov] :i* !y h be5 %ap$7 :5 !y w be f\nd to keep _! %ape4 ,! brim w\ld ne$ a wire f\ndation to hold x out 9 %ape & ! braid %\ld be caught d[n to ! wire z x is be+ sew$4 ,a small lace wire %\ld be us$ = ?is f\ndation1 f\r spokes toge!r ) ! headsize wire & edge wire be+ suffici5t4 ,! wire %\ld be w\nd ) mal9e or h a fac+ ( mal9e4 ,horsehair braid is transp>5t4 ,!re are _m fanciful ways ( us+ braid on a hat1 b ^! c be readily copi$ if ! =ego+ me?ods h be5 ma/]$4 ,be v c>eful ab\t press+ braids or add+ moi/ure z x ru9s "s braids1 :ile o!rs mu/ be moi/5$ be=e !y c be h&l$ 9 sew+ to a hat frame4 ,,cov]+ ,,wire ,,frames ,,) ,,mal9e1 ,,net ,,or ,,georgette-- ,wire frames :i* are to be cov]$ ) %e] mat]ial1 su* z mal9e1 net1 or georgette1 mu/ be c>efully made1 z ! wire frame becomes a "p ( ! design1 & ! wire %\ld be silk cov]$4 ,if mal9e is us$1 x %\ld be pleat$ or ga!r$ on1 unless ! brim is ( ! halo /yle1 = :i* directions are giv5 else:]e4 ,f\r or five ?icknesses ( mal9e are necess>y4 ,! mat]ial is (t5 ga!r$ 9 small qu>t]-in* tucks at ! po9ts :]e ! tuck may be sew$ to ! circle wire on ! brim or ! cr[n4 ,a small tuck at ! edge wire w\ld make a s(t] look+ edge ?an if put on pla94 ,! fullness is !n ga!r$ 9 & sew$ to ! headsize wire4 ,if ! edge is left pla91 a few r[s ( lacey-look+ braid may be sew$ on ! edge4 ,a wide tuck hang+ d[n f ! edge is sometimes us$ & x is v becom+ to c]ta9 types ( faces4 ,! wires ( a frame are (t5 fir/ w\nd ) n>r[ bias pieces ( net or mal9e4 ,! edges are turn$ 9 & ! mat]ial wrapp$ on smoo?ly & ev5ly4 ,sometimes ! wires are w\nd ) a contra/+ color4 ,an effective cov]+ = any frame may be made f ribbon or bias /rips ( sat9 or silk1 velvet or georgette1 or any s(t fabric4 ,if a wire frame is us$1 x mu/ fir/ be cov]$ ) a ?9 pla9 mat]ial to s]ve z a f\ndation to :i* ! ribbon or /rips ( mat]ial may be sew$1 or a frame ( nete5 or cr9ol9e may be us$ if a v s(t hat is desir$4 ,,ribbon ,,cov]+-- ,if a ribbon is us$1 x mu/ be ga!r$ on "o edge s t x may be drawn d[n to fit ! frame & may be laid on ! same z braid4 ,an in*-wide ribbon is easily h&l$4 ,,bias ,,fabric-- ,if bias /rips ( silk or sat9 are us$1 ! mat]ial %\ld be cut 9 /rips two & "o-half in*es wide1 on a true bias1 & jo9$ 9 "o long /rip4 ,fold l5g?wise ?r\gh ! middle & ga!r ! raw edges toge!r a little less ?an "o-qu>t] ( an in* f ! edge4 ,?is is sew$ to ! frame ! same z braid1 ! fold$ edge ov]lapp+ ! raw edge & ! ?read drawn up to adju/ x z x is p9n$ & sew$ 9 place4 ,?is is an excell5t way to use up old mat]ial4 ,,hat ,,l9+s ,a hat l9+ %\ld receive ! same c>eful consid]ation & workman%ip z ! outside ( ! hat4 ,f ! mill9]'s po9t ( view x is an adv]tisem5t1 ! place :]e we f9d ! design]'s "n4 ,a well-fitt$ l9+1 :e!r ( somb] or gay color$ silk1 enhances ! value ( a hat4 ,sometimes we f9d a t9y sa*et rosebud sew$ to ! l9+1 or a little lace-trimm$ pocket = ! veil4 ,!re are ?ree popul> k9ds ( l9+s-- ,pla9 l9+ ,fr5* l9+ ,tailor$ l9+ ,,pla9 ,,l9+-- ,?is %\ld be made ( a bias /rip ( mat]ial cut ! l5g? ( ! headsize wire1 plus "o in* = seam4 ,! wid? %\ld be ! same z ! cr[n height plus two & "o-half in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,cov]+ ,,cr[n ,,) ,,two-,,in* ,,wide ,,bias ,,sat94 ,,cord ,,sew$ ,,9 ,,"o ,,edge2 ,,! ,,o!r ,,edge ,,is ,,ga!r$ ,,& ,,pull$ ,,up ,,to ,,fit ,,cr[n ,fold "o end ov] "o-half in* & p9 to ! back ( ! hat2 fold ! edge ( ! mat]ial d[n "o-qu>t] ( an in* ar\nd ! inside ( ! cr[n z close z possible to ! edge )\t %[+ :5 ! hat is on ! head4 ,p9 9 place all ! way r\nd & slip/it* ! two ends toge!r2 !n beg9 at ! seam & slip/it* ! l9+ 9 place4 ,! me?od is to br+ ! ne$le f ! und]side ( ! l9+ ?r\gh ! edge ( ! fold1 cat* a few ?reads ( mat]ial on ! hat opposite ?is ?read1 & put ! ne$le back ?r\gh ! fold at ! same po9t2 br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! fold "o-half in* f ! fir/ /it* & proce$ 9 ?is mann] until ! seam is rea*$4 ,turn ! o!r raw edge d[n "o-half in* to ! wrong side & make a runn+ /it* "o-qu>t] in* f ! fold$ edge 9 :i* a n>r[ ribbon %\ld be run1 & drawn d[n z mu* z necess>y to make ! l9+ fit ! cr[n4 ,a cr[n tip is us$ ) ?is l9+1 :i* is made ( a piece ( silk f\r in*es squ>e1 sew$ or glu$ to ! inside ( ! cr[n top4 ,on ?is piece ! design]'s "n is usually f\nd4 ,,fr5* ,,l9+-- ,?is l9+ is made f an oval piece ( silk :i* corresponds to ! cr[n measurem5ts4 ,measure ! cr[n f front to back & f side to side1 add+ "o in* to ^! measurem5ts4 ,fit a small wire to ! inside ( ! hat at ! headsize & tie4 ,lap ! edge ( ! silk ov] ! wire "o-qu>t] ( an in*4 ,ga!r ! silk close to ! wire us+ a small runn+ /it*4 ,aft] complet$1 p9 9 place & slip/it* to ! cr[n4 ,?is l9+ w r$uce ! headsize ( any hat some:at1 s x %\ld nev] be us$ if !re is any dang] ( mak+ ! hat too small = ! head4 ,,tailor$ ,,l9+-- ,?is l9+ is r ! mo/ popul> l9+ us$4 ,l>ge firms s5d _! mat]ial away to be made up = _! trade & ! l9+s may be b\ght ready-made1 b almo/ e "o has pieces ( silk :i* may be easily made into "o ( ^! l9+s4 ,cut an oval ( cr9ol9e two-?irds z l>ge z ! top ( cr[n1 ba/e a piece ( silk l9+ ov] ?is4 ,p9 ?is on top ( ! cr[n1 z ?is c be/ be fitt$ on ! outside & %\ld be done be=e ! hat is made4 ,n[ cut a piece ( bias mat]ial long en\gh to rea* ar\nd ! bottom ( ! cr[n wide en\gh to meet ?is cr[n tip at all po9ts4 ,aft] p9n+ x to ! cr[n tip1 turn up "o-qu>t] ( an in* at ! bottom & p9 to ! bottom ( ! cr[n4 ,/ret* snugly because ! inside ( ! cr[n is small]2 p9 ! fullness to ! cr[n top all ar\nd1 ga!r betwe5 p9s1 & ba/e 9 place4 ,/it* on ! ma*9e4 ,?is seam may be cord$ or a small cord sew$ on to cov] ! seam4 ,l9+s may be made ( taffeta1 *9a silk1 sat91 sate5 or ( almo/ any mat]ial :i* is n too heavy4 ,:5 a wire frame is cov]$ ) ?9 mat]ial & ! frame %[s ?r\gh1 ! hat %\ld h a ?9 l9+4 ,if ! hat is cov]$ ) mal9e1 use a mal9e l9+2 if ) georgette1 a georgette l9+ %\ld be us$4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,trimm+s ,,mill9]',s ,,fold-- ,cut f a piece ( velvet1 sat91 or any fabric :i* is to be us$1 a bias /rip "o & "o-half in*es wide & ( ! desir$ l5g?4 ,?is mu/ be on a true bias1 :i* is f\nd by plac+ ! w>p & wo( ?reads p>allel4 ,any o!r bias is call$ a g>m5t bias4 ,hold ! wrong side t[>d y & turn ! bottom edge up on ! wrong side t[>d y & up to ! c5t] & ba/e close to ! edge4 ,! ba/+ ?read mu/ be loose en\gh to p]mit ! fold to be /ret*$4 ,leave ! ba/+ 94 ,next fold ! o!r raw edge d[n until ! two edges meet1 b d n ba/e4 ,fold aga91 keep+ ?is la/ fold "o-qu>t] ( an in* or a little less f ! o!r fold$ edge4 ,hold 9 place & slip/it* d[n4 ,slip ! ne$le ?r\gh ! edge ( ! fold & take a long /it*1 !n1 go+ d[n ?r\gh to ! o!r side1 take a %ort /it*4 ,come back ?r\gh a little "u ! fold to hide ! /it*4 ,slip ! ne$le along ! edge ( ! fold z be=e1 & cont9ue 9 ?is mann]4 ,! ?read %\ld be kept loose all ! way to p]mit ! fold to be /ret*$ slightly :5 us$4 ,! fold :5 f9i%$ %\ld n twi/ or look z if x _h a /it* 9 x4 ,ano!r sep>ate s+le fold may be add$ to ?is2 x is !n call$ a ,fr5* fold4 ,! mill9]'s fold has _m uses1 su* z f9i%+ ! edge ( hats1 & ! bottom ( cr[ns1 to cov] ! jo9+ ( ! hat to ! brim4 ,x is us$ sometimes ar\nd ! top ( a squ>e cr[n & is mu* us$ 9 m\rn+ mill9]y1 :5 x is made ( crepe4 ,,b[s ,= ! inexp]i5c$ 9 b[-mak+ !re is no bett] plan ?an to copy _m diff]5t /yles ( b[s1 us+ ei!r tissue pap] or *eap cambric1 z ribbons are ru9$ by be+ made ov] too _m times4 ,b[-mak+ is sometimes q difficult = an amateur1 :ile = "s /ud5ts ( mill9]y x is v easy1 b any "o ) pati5ce may become q exp]t 9 "t4 ,cut ! tissue pap] or cambric ! exact wid? ( ! ribbon :i* is to be us$4 ,9 ?is way ! exact am\nt ( ribbon may be det]m9$1 z well z ! l5g? ( ea* loop4 ,if a /iff1 sm>t-look+ b[ is to be made1 fold ! ribbon 9 loops be=e pleat+4 ,if a s(t-look+ or puffy1 fat-look+ b[ is desir$1 pleat ! ribbon s+ly be=e mak+ ! loops4 ,! s(t b[ is (t5 us$ = *ildr5's hats4 ,aft] ! desir$ numb] ( loops is made1 w9d a /rong ?read ar\nd ! c5t] & ov] ?is wrap ! rema9+ end ( ribbon ar\nd ! c5t] sev]al times until ! c5t] is fill$ up suffici5tly to look well4 ,,b[s ,,( ,,mal9e-- ,mal9e is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful mat]ials us$ 9 mill9]y & x l5ds itself to _m uses4 ,hat frames are cov]$ ) mal9e2 x is us$ to cov] w+s to keep fea!rs 9 place2 to cov] fad$ or worn-out fl[]s2 = %irr$ brims & cr[ns2 = pleat+s2 = folds on edges ( brims to give a s(t look2 & = b[s4 ,a b[ ( mal9e requires wir+ ) a v small tie wire or lace wire4 ,! wire may be caught 9 a fold at ! edge ( ! loops1 or ! loops may be made d\ble ) ! wire caught inside4 ,,wir$ ,,ribbon ,,b[s-- ,ribbon is sometimes wir$ if a /iff effect is desir$4 ,silk1 sat91 velvet1 or any k9d ( ribbon c be us$4 ,! flat ribbon wire is sometimes pa/$ betwe5 two ribbons ) mill9]'s glue4 ,(t5 two colors are r effectively us$ 9 ?is way4 ,! wire may also be /it*$ to "o edge ( ! ribbon4 ,?is is done by turn+ ! ribbon ov] ! wire at ! edge & /it*+ on ! sew+ ma*9e4 ,! ends ( ! wire %\ld ext5d two in*es beyond ! ends ( ! loop ( ! b[4 ,aft] ! b[ is arrang$1 ^! ends %\ld be b5t out & back1 mak+ loops :i* are sew$ d[n to ! hat4 ,?is holds ! b[ v firmly1 especially if a small piece ( buckram is plac$ inside ! hat at ! po9t at :i* ! b[ is to be sew$4 ,?is re-en=ces ! frame & makes x /ill m firm4 ,if a b[ is to be plac$ on top ( a cr[n1 a hole may be made & ! ribbon :i* completes ! middle ( ! b[ may be br\ght up f ! inside ( ! cr[n ?r\gh ?is op5+1 ov] ! b[1 & d[n ?r\gh ?is op5+ & fa/5$ inside ( ! cr[n4 ,a n>r[ ribbon ( velvet is v pretty twi/$ ov] a wire & two p]ky loops & ends made4 ,^! are v pretty p]*$ on ! edge ( a brim or among fl[]s on ! hat4 ,,true ,,lov]s' ,,knot-- ,?is is n1 /rictly speak+1 a b[1 b comes "u ?is head4 ,! ribbon us$ is made into ! knot & sew$ flat z x is made4 ,x may be sew$ on ! brim or side cr[n & is v effective made ( gold ribbon4 ,,tailor$ ,,b[-- ,?is b[ is usually made f a piece ( ribbon :i* has bo? sides alike1 al?\gh x may be made f any ribbon4 ,a ,knox tailor$ b[ is made f gros-gra9$ ribbon4 ,cut a small piece ( buckram = a f\ndation to sew ! ribbon on4 ,?is %\ld be suffici5tly small s t ! ribbon w conceal x4 ,make two loops ( equal l5g?1 lett+ ! ribbon lie p]fectly flat4 ,measurem5ts %\ld be v exact4 ,sew ^! loops firmly to ! buckram2 fold ! ribbon back & =? to make ^! loops )\t cutt+4 ,next fold two m loops1 "o on ea* side1 "o-qu>t] ( an in* %ort] & exactly on top4 ,sew firmly & cut ! ribbon (f at ! c5t]4 ,fa/5 two %ort ends to ! back ( ! b[1 all[+ !m to ext5d "o-qu>t] ( an in* & cut diagonally4 ,take a %ort l5g? ( ribbon & pleat x once ?r\gh ! c5t]4 ,wrap ?is once ar\nd ! b[ & fa/5 at ! back4 ,?is b[ is mu* us$ on sailors or any tailor$ hat4 ,!re are _m k9ds ( fancy b[s br\ght out f season to season1 b if ! mak+ ( a few /yles ( /&>d b[s is ma/]$1 o!rs may be easily copi$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,section ,,( ,,mal9e ,,pompon ,,%[+ ,,me?od ,,( ,,fa/5+ ,,on ,,! ,,wire ,illu/ration3 ,,radiat+ ,,pleat+ ,,made ,,on ,,l[ ,,pyramid ,,( ,,buckram ,illu/ration3 ,,true ,,lov]s' ,,knot ,illu/ration3 ,,radiat+ ,,pleat+ ,,made ,,on ,,buckram ,,f\ndation ,illu/ration3 ,,second ,,me?od ,,( ,,mak+ ,,an ,,or*id ,,c5t] 7see page #ia7 ,,pleat+s ,a pleat+ is difficult & requires pati5ce4 ,unless accurately made1 x %\ld nev] be us$ on a hat1 = ^u its accuracy dep5ds its attractiv5ess4 ,! simple/ pleat+ is a side pleat+4 ,?is may be made f pap] or /iff musl9 = practice "w4 ,!re %\ld n be a ?read's diff]5ce 9 ! wid? ( ea* pleat4 ,any simple pleat+ requires ?ree times ! l5g? ( ! space x is to cov]4 ,if a half-in* pleat+ is to be made1 ! folds w come e "o & "o-half in*es4 ,z ea* fold is laid1 ba/e x d[n ) silk ?read4 ,press slightly on ! wrong side be=e us+4 ,,box ,,pleat+-- ,?is is made by turn+ ! fir/ pleat to ! left & ! next to ! "r4 ,! same am\nt ( mat]ial is requir$ z = side pleat+4 ,if ! pleats are to be "o-half in* deep1 ! box pleat w be "o in* across4 ,ba/e ) silk ?read at ! top & bottom1 & press on ! wrong side4 ,a simple box pleat+ may be ba/$ ?r\gh ! c5t] & ! edges caught toge!r4 ,,d\ble ,,or ,,triple ,,box-,,pleat+-- ,?is is made by add+ "o or m pleats1 "o on top ( ! o!r4 ,beg9 by mak+ two or m pleats turn+ to ! left1 !n ! same numb] turn+ to ! "r4 ,be v accurate1 be+ c>eful to keep ! box pleat ! exact wid? desir$4 ,ba/e at ! top & bottom4 ,?is pleat+ is ne>ly always us$ by ba/+ ?r\gh ! c5t]1 aft] hav+ slightly press$4 ,! top & bottom ba/+s are !n remov$4 ,! pleat+ may be caught toge!r at top & bottom ( box pleat1 & x is !n kn[n z rose pleat+4 ,,radiat+-- ,?is is ! mo/ difficult pleat+ to fa%ion1 b v h&some ornam5ts are made 9 ?is way4 ,a f\ndation ( buckram is usually requir$ to sew ! pleats on z !y are laid4 ,! two illu/rations giv5 w suffice4 ,aft] ^! two examples are correctly copi$1 o!r models & orig9al designs c be easily made4 ,,f\ndations ,,( ,,buckram-- ,! f\ndation = ! second is 9 ! %ape ( a l[ pyramid made f buckram4 ,cut a small circle ( buckram1 sla% 9 ?ree equally di/ant places f ! out] edge to )9 "o-eigh? ( an in* ( ! c5t]4 ,lap a small am\nt & sew4 ,?ree r[s or m ( pleat+ may be us$ on ?is ornam5t4 ,an ord9>y ornam5t w require ab\t five y>ds ( in*-wide ribbon4 ,! fir/ r[ w\ld be plac$ ne> ! outside edge ( ! buckram & ea* pleat sew$ z x is laid4 ,! pleat+ %\ld radiate f ! c5t]4 ,to d ?is1 ! inside ( ! pleat+ w lap m ?an ! outside4 ,! next r[ w ov]lap ?is fir/ r[ & ! same me?od w be us$4 ,! pleat+ may be te/$ by hold+ a rul] on a l9e betwe5 ! top & ! l[] edge ( ! pleat+4 ,! pleats %\ld all be on a /raight l9e betwe5 ^! po9ts4 ,! la/ or f9i%+ r[ is ! mo/ difficult ( all4 ,! pleats at ! apex %\ld meet1 & pleats at ! l[] ov]lapp+ edge be on a l9e ) ! re/ ( ! pleat+4 ,a t9y b[ or button is sometimes us$ to f9i% ! top1 b x is mu* h&som] if f9i%$ )\t ei!r b[ or button4 ,,pompons ,mal9e pompons make a v pretty ornam5t = any hat4 ,!y may be made p]fectly r\nd or elongat$ l ! illu/ration4 ,sev]al ?icknesses ( ! mat]ial may be cut at "o "t4 ,! %ape ( ! pieces = ! elongat$ pompon w\ld be cut l patt]n a4 ,ea* piece is fold$ l5g?wise ( ! mat]ial1 & ?is fold is fa/5$ to a wire :i* has be5 previ\sly w\nd ) mal9e4 ,! edges ( ^! pieces are left raw1 & en\gh are us$ to make ! pompon appe> q compact4 ,,ribbon ,,rosettes ,!re are _m diff]5t k9ds ( rosettes made f ribbon4 ,sometimes sev]al loops ( ribbon are made v close toge!r & w\nd ) ?read z !y are ga!r$4 ,a v pretty rosette is made ( n>r[ ribbon "o-qu>t] ( an in* wide4 ,_m loops ?ree in*es long or m ( ?is wid? ribbon may be fa/5$ to a small piece ( buckram4 ,a knot plac$ at ! end ( ea* loop adds to its attractiv5ess4 ,,rosettes ,,f ,,old ,,plumes-- ,an old plume may be us$ to make trimm+ = a hat by cutt+ x f ! quill ) a v %>p knife or razor blade1 reta9+ a small portion ( ! quill :i* w be suffici5t to hold ! fea!rs toge!r4 ,?is %\ld be sew$ onto a f9e wire1 & x may !n be w\nd into a rosette4 ,a small fl[] plac$ 9 ! c5t] is a pleas+ addition4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,h&-,,made ,,fl[]s ,,fl[]s ,,mat]ial ,,requir$3 ,tie wire1 gre5 ,gum tissue1 br[n & gre5 ,cotton batt+ ,mill9]'s glue ,yell[ /am5s ,d>k gre5 tissue pap] ,fl[]s may be made f almo/ any fabric--sat91 velvet1 georgette1 mal9e1 ribbon1 s(t lea!r1 oilclo?1 y>n1 & *5ille4 ,a scrapbag = odds & ends %\ld always be kept = small pieces ( mat]ials4 ,any piece two in*es squ>e may be us$ = fl[]s or fruits4 ,su* a bag ( pieces w prove a v]itable gold m9e to use 9 mak+ fl[]s & fruit trimm+s4 ,ea* ye> br+s out novelties 9 trimm+s1 b h&-made fl[]s are always worn m or less on hats1 g[ns1 suits1 & muffs4 ,!y are especially beautiful on ev5+ g[ns4 ,a g5]\s numb] ( ! be/ examples are giv5 "h ) illu/rations4 ,to prep>e ! petals ( any fl[] is n difficult1 b to arrange !m is ano!r matt]4 ,/udy ! face ( any blossom :i* y are mak+ & try to make x look z natural z possible4 ,p9n+ ! petals 9 place be=e sew+ !m is ( great value1 o!rwise !y are apt to slip back on ! /em z !y are be+ sew$4 ,illu/ration3 ,a4 ,,am]ican ,,beauty ,,rose ,,) ,,detail4 ,b4 ,,ribbon ,,rose4 ,c4 ,,*]ries ,,) ,,detail4 ,d4 ,,or*ids ,,) ,,lilies ,,( ,,! ,,valley4 ,e4 ,,rais9s4 ,f4 ,,wir$ ,,rose ,,) ,,detail4 ,g4 ,,po9settia4 ,,am]ican ,,beauty ,,rose-- ,?is rose may be made ( silk or sat92 x may h z _m petals z desir$4 ,ea* petal is cut f a piece ( fold$ mat]ial l ! diagram 7#a74 ,x is highly important t ! fold$ edge be on a true bias4 ,beg9 ! rose by cutt+ ?ree petals l ! illu/ration1 ) ! bias edge "o & "o-half in*es long4 ,run a ga!r+ ?read "o-eigh? ( an in* f ! curv$ edge1 leav+ a ?read "o in* long s t ! petal may be adju/$ z x is p9n$ 9 place4 ,make a loop "o in* long on ! end ( a piece ( wire six in*es long4 ,cov] ?is loop ) a small circle ( ! mat]ial l ! rose4 ,x is sometimes f\nd to be advantage\s to fill ?is circle ) cotton to make a s(t c5t] = ! rose4 ,= an ord9>y-siz$ rose !re %\ld be eighte5 petals4 ,! fir/ ?ree are already describ$ z hav+ a "o & "o-half-in* bias4 ,! next l>g] 9 size %\ld h a two-in* bias & be correspond+ly wid]2 ! next five %\ld h a two & "o-half-in* bias1 & ! next five a ?ree-in* bias4 ,! ?ree small petals %\ld be arrang$ ar\nd ! cov]$ loop ( wire & p9n$ 9 place be=e sew+4 ,sew securely4 ,ea* r[1 z x is arrang$ accord+ to size1 %\ld be p9n$ 9 place & scrut9iz$ c>efully to see t x is plac$ effectively4 ,ea* r[ %\ld be plac$ a little high] ?an ! prec$+ "o4 ,see t ! face ( ! fl[] looks z ne>ly l a real rose z possible1 all[+ ! back to look z x w4 ,) a little exp]i5ce "o soon becomes effici5t & le>ns h[ to adju/ ! diff]5t mat]ials4 ,"s mat]ials be+ m pliable ?an o!rs1 ! %ape ( ! petals may be *ang$ slightly to meet ! ne$4 ,! back ( ! rose may be f9i%$ by add+ a suffici5t numb] ( gre5 leaves tak5 f "s disc>d$ fl[] or b\ght = ! purpose4 ,a small gre5 cup is also add$ to f9i% ! base2 ^! may be b\ght at ribbon c\nt]s4 ,! bud us$ ) ?is rose may be made by us+ ! ?ree smalle/ petals4 ,"s gre5 foliage mu/ also be us$ ) ?is rose & ! /em b\nd ) a n>r[ gray-gre5 ribbon1 or ) gum tissue :i* %\ld be w>m$ be=e us+4 ,! inside petals may be ( a d>k] %ade ?an ! outside petals4 ,,ribbon ,,rose-- ,to make a m$ium-siz$ ribbon rose requires two y>ds ( sat9 ribbon two in*es wide4 ,!re are sev]al diff]5t me?ods ( mak+ ! c5t] = ?is rose4 ,a simple c5t] = ?is rose may be made f a piece ( ! ribbon1 f\r in*es long4 ,fold ?is 9 half4 ,sew ! selvages toge!r along "o side4 ,turn & fill ) cotton ar\nd :i* has be5 w\nd ! end ( a six-in* piece ( frame wire4 ,a little rose-sc5t$ sa*et p[d] may be spr9kl$ on ?is cotton to add p]fume to ! blossom4 ,ga!r ! sat9 d[n close to ! wire aft] r\nd+ ! corn]s at ! l[] edges4 ,two y>ds %\ld make ?is c5t] & eighte5 petals4 ,m may be add$ or few] may be us$4 ,= ! fir/ r[ cut ?ree l5g?s ?ree in*es long2 ! second r[1 five l5g?s ?ree & "o-half in*es long2 ?ird r[1 five l5g?s f\r in*es long2 f\r? r[ five l5g?s f\r & "o-half in*es long4 ,ea* petal is f9i%$ ! same be=e x is sew$ 9 place ,fold ! two ends toge!r1 turn ea* corn] ( ! fold$ end d[n diagonally & p9 9 place4 ,n[ raise ! end on ! back ( ! petal & cat* ! corn]s d[n ) a few small /it*es4 ,replace ! end & ga!r ! raw edges toge!r1 b d n draw up close4 ,prep>e all ( ! petals 9 ! same way be=e beg9n+ to sew !m to ! c5t]4 ,sometimes a t9y bit ( cotton is plac$ inside ea* petal to make ! rose look l>g]4 ,:5 all ! petals are f9i%$1 beg9 ! rose by add+ ! ?ree smalle/ petals fir/4 ,p9 9 place ar\nd ! c5t]1 wrapp+ !m closely ar\nd x & lett+ !m ext5d ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* above ! po9t4 ,add ! next r[1 p9n+ ea* petal 9 place be=e sew+4 ,place ea* succe$+ r[ "o-eigh? ( an in* above ! prec$+ "o4 ,wat* ! face ( ! blossom c>efully & see t x looks z natural z possible4 ,! back ( ! blossom w be cov]$ :5 f9i%$1 ei!r ) a few old rose leaves & a rose cup1 or po9ts ( gre5 ribbon sew$ to resemble leaves4 ,a rubb] /em may be b\ght to slip ov] ! wire on :i* ! rose is sew$1 or ! wire may be w\nd ) gre5 floss1 baby ribbon1 gre5 tissue pap]1 or gum tissue4 ,if ! rose is to be full bl[n1 x w\ld be mu* bett] to make ! c5t] ( yell[ /am5s4 ,,wild ,,rose ,,( ,,silk-- ,! petals = ! wild rose may be cut f ! same patt]n z = ! fir/ rose giv54 ,?is same patt]n is us$ = _m diff]5t fl[]s--! wild rose1 apple blossom1 sweet pea1 & = foliage4 ,= ! wild rose use ! size hav+ ! two-in* bias4 ,ga!r "o-eigh? ( an in* f ! curv$ edge1 draw d[n tight & fa/5 ! ?read (f4 ,?is rose requires five petals1 & w look m natural if two ( ! petals are ( a d>k] %ade ?an ! o!r ?ree4 ,= ! c5t] wrap a piece ( tie wire ar\nd sev]al yell[ rose /am5s :i* may be b\ght at a mill9]y /ore1 leav+ ! ends ( wire five or six in*es long4 ,arrange ! petals flat ar\nd ?is c5t] & sew 9 place4 ,! petals %\ld lie out flat1 or ne>ly s4 ,a bud = ?is rose is made by fold+ a petal toge!r aft] hav+ ga!r$ x4 ,! bud may be effectively f9i%$ by us+ two leaves ( foliage1 plac+ "o on ei!r side1 p>tially cov]+ ! bud & !n f9i%+ ) ! wire or a small gre5 rose cup4 ,to f9i% ) wire1 make a loop 9 ! c5t] ( a t5-in* piece ( tie wire4 ,to ?is loop sew ! bud4 ,twi/ ! wire sev]al times = an in* bel[ ! bud1 !n turn "o end ( ! wire back & twi/ x ar\nd ! /em until ! bud is rea*$4 ,w9d x sev]al times ov] ! base ( ! bud1 draw x tight & see t ! wire is close toge!r4 ,?is w make a f9i% = ! bud4 ,,foliage-- ,! rose foliage may be made if desir$4 ,cut ! leaves f gre5 sat9 or velvet1 or color !m gre5 ) wat]-color if a light-color$ mat]ial mu/ be us$4 ,aft] cutt+ ! pieces 9 ! %ape ( rose leaves 7x w require two pieces = ea* leaf71 lay "o wrong side up1 cov] ) mill9]'s glue4 ,lay on ! c5t] ( ?is a piece ( tie wire long en\gh = ! /em4 ,place ano!r leaf on ?is & press toge!r4 ,:5 all ! leaves are made aft] ?is me?od1 arrange on a long /em or wire1 & if w\nd ) br[n gum tissue x w look v natural4 ,,small ,,w\nd ,,rose ,,( ,,fabric-- ,cut f a true bias a /rip ( mat]ial "o in* wide & f\r in*es long4 ,fold l5g?wise ?r\gh ! middle4 ,turn ! raw edges 9 on "o end1 & ga!r "o-eigh? in* f ! edge along ! raw edges4 ,draw ! ?read up to "o in* & roll1 beg9n+ ) ! fold$ end1 & sew4 ,a piece ( tie wire may be glu$ inside ! fold be=e ga!r+1 if desir$4 ,^! little roses may be sew$ on a /em or sew$ to a %ap$ piece ( buckram :i* has be5 cov]$ ) silk4 ,x may be 9 ! %ape ( a buckle or a circle & cov]$ ) ^! little roses 9 sev]al colors1 p9k1 blue1 & mauve4 ,sew$ flat aga9/ a cr[n or on a brim1 !y w\ld trim a hat effectively4 ,,wir$ ,,rose-- ,?is rose1 :5 c>efully made1 is mo/ beautiful & sells = an exorbitant price4 ,to make ! rose z illu/rat$ requires "o-qu>t] ( a y>d ( sat9 cut on ! bias & "o-eigh? ( a y>d ( velvet cut on ! bias4 ,if ! velvet is "o or m %ades d>k]1 ! result w be m pleas+4 ,! rose is fa%ion$ f petals cut l ! illu/ration4 ,! fir/ ?ree petals are cut f dim5sions giv5 9 ! illu/ration1 two in*es long & "o & ?ree-qu>t]s in*es wide4 ,! next five petals %\ld be "o-qu>t] ( an in* l>g]1 & ea* succe$+ r[ ( five petals %\ld be "o-qu>t] ( an in* l>g] ?an ! prec$+ "o4 ,! la/ r[ ( petals is to be made f ! velvet4 ,cut a piece ( ! tie wire long en\gh to rea* ar\nd ! outside edge ( ea* petal1 plus "o & "o-half in*es4 ,lay ! petals d[n wrong side up1 b5d ! wire to ! %ape ( ! petal1 lay ! wire close to ! edge & turn ! raw edge ov] ! wire "o-eigh? ( an in* & glue 9 place ) mill9]'s glue4 ,place a light weight on ! petals until ?or\ghly dry4 ,beg9 assembl+ ! fl[] by fir/ mak+ a c5t] f "s ( ! scraps left f ! velvet1 or yell[ rose /am5s may be us$2 fold sev]al small pieces into bud-l %apes ( ab\t "o in* 9 l5g?1 sew /rongly & fa/5 on a loop ( ! wire six in*es long4 ,keep ! po9t :]e all ! petals are jo9$ 9 z small a circumf]5ce z possible4 ,beg9 ) ! ?ree small petals1 pleat !m at ! bottom into z small a space z possible1 & sew to ! c5t] ) ! wrong side to ! c5t]4 ,aft] !y h be5 arrang$1 ! edges may be cr9kl$ d[n some:at4 ,add ! rema9+ petals accord+ to _! size4 ,! la/ r[ ( velvet petals is r pretty if "o or m is plac$ ) ! "r side t[>d ! c5t]4 ,,flat ,,pa/$ ,,blossom-- ,a conv5tional fl[] :i* makes a beautiful trimm+ may be made f ! patt]n = ! wir$ rose fir/ giv54 ,cut five petals 7( any size requir$7 f velvet1 & five ! same size f silk or sat94 ,lay ! velvet petals wrong side up & cov] ) mill9]'s glue4 ,lay on ?is a piece ( tie wire "o-qu>t] ( an in* f ! edge1 all[+ an ext5sion ( ends ( ! wire at ! bottom ( ! petal4 ,lay ! silk petal on top & press firmly4 ,:5 dry arrange ^! five petals ar\nd a clu/] ( yell[ /am5s1 :i* h be5 fa/5$ to a loop ( tie wire4 ,?is blossom %\ld lie out flat :5 f9i%$4 ,( c\rse ! %ape ( ! petals may be *ang$ 9 any way desir$4 ,,po9settias-- ,! petals ( ?is blossom are also pa/$ to a l9+1 ! po9settia mak+ a beautiful ornam5t4 ,:ile a bright r$ is extremely lovely1 a black po9settia is equally effective4 ,! petals %\ld be made ( velvet & l9$ ) ! same color 9 sat94 ,^! petals be+ n>r[1 only ne$ a wire ?r\gh ! c5t]4 ,aft] ! petals h be5 prep>$1 !y %\ld be assembl$ ar\nd a bun* ( yell[ /am5s or knott$ baby ribbon4 ,! foliage is made f gre5 velvet l9$ ) gre5 silk4 ,! accompany+ illu/ration %[s ! proportion ( bo? ! petals ( ! blossom & ! foliage4 ,! /ems may be w\nd ) gre5 or br[n gum tissue4 ,,poppies-- ,poppies may be made f ribbon sev5te5 in*es long & two & "o-qu>t] in*es wide4 ,cut two pieces five & "o-half in*es long4 ,?is leaves "o piece six in*es long4 ,?is w make five petals4 ,cut ! ends r\nd on ! five & "o-half in* pieces1 & cut "o end ( ! six-in* piece r\nd4 ,beg9n+ at ! c5t]1 close to edge1 ga!r ) a small runn+ /it*4 ,turn 9 ! raw edges & draw ! ?read suffici5tly to make ! r\nd$ ends curl ov] "o in*1 & fa/5 (f ! ?read4 ,^! two long pieces make f\r petals4 ,pleat !m v close at ! c5t]1 sew toge!r1 f9i% ! s+le petal ! same & add x to ! f\r petals4 ,knott$ black baby ribbon or yell[ /am5s or bo? w make a beautiful c5t]4 ,,morn+ ,,glories-- ,cut a circle ( pap] f\r in*es 9 diamet]4 ,"o qu>t] section ( ?is w be ! patt]n = a morn+ glory4 ,! circle may be l>g] if desir$1 b ! size %\ld dep5d some:at ^u ! mat]ial us$4 ,^! dim5sions are = a small blossom made ( taffeta silk or org&ie4 ,if made ( velvet or heavy silk1 ! patt]n %\ld be mu* l>g]4 ,lap ! /raight edges "o-eigh? ( an in* 9 & pa/e 9 place4 ,?is makes a cone4 ,cut a piece ( tie wire six in*es 9 l5g?1 lap "o end ov] sev]al knots ( yell[ baby ribbon & twi/ securely4 ,pu% ! o!r end ( wire ?r\gh ! cone f ! inside & draw ! knots d[n into ! po9t4 ,make a %ort b5d 9 ! wire at ! l[] po9t ( ! blossom on ! outside to prev5t its slipp+ d[n on ! wire4 ,! upp] edge ( ! cone may be roll$ ov] a piece ( tie wire & pa/$ if necess>y2 usually x /ays 9 place )\t ei!r sew+ or pa/+4 ,! edge %\ld be /ret*$ slightly4 ,org&ie or taffeta silk w /ay roll$ into place )\t ! tie wire4 ,wat] color is us$ mo/ effectively on ^! fl[]s to make ! %ad+ z true to nature z possible4 ,if made ( velvet !y may be sew$ d[n flat on a hat at ! side jo9+1 :5 a l>ge /am5 ( twi/$ ribbon or *5ille may be made to cov] ! jo9+ 9 ! cone4 ,,or*id-- ,?is blossom is especially adapt$ to ! g[n ( ! matron1 or :]ev] a t\* ( lav5d] is desir$4 ,x is effectively comb9$ ) violets1 or lilies-(-!-valley & maid5hair f]n4 ,! petals are made ( sat9 ribbon "o & "o-qu>t] in*es wide & ( ! peculi> p9ki% lav5d] or*id %ade4 ,!re are five petals 9 all--ea* calls = sev5 in*es ( ribbon4 ,if possible1 ?ree ( ! petals %\ld be "o or two %ades d>k] ?an ! o!r two4 ,fold a sev5-in* piece ( ribbon 7"o & "o-qu>t] in*es wide7 9 half ) ! "r side out4 ,cut into %ape l ! illu/ration4 ,/it* a seam along ! curv$ edge "o-eigh? ( an in* f ! edge4 ,twi/ a v small loop 9 "o end ( a piece ( sev5-in* tie wire & fa/5 up at fold$ end ( ! ribbon4 ,ov]h& ?is wire along ! raw edges1 turn to ! wrong side & sew ! wire 9 ) a "o-eigh?-in* seam on ! wrong side4 ,?is makes a ,fr5* seam4 ,n[ spread ! petal op5 flat1 & pu% x up on ! wire until ! petal measures six in*es 9 l5g?4 ,ga!r ! raw ends & w9d !m tight to ! wire4 ,f9i% ! o!r f\r petals ! same way4 ,,no4 #a ,,patt]n ,,= ,,! ,,c5t]-- ,?is calls = a piece ( velvet ribbon "o & "o-half in*es wide & f\r in*es 9 l5g?4 ,if possible ?is ribbon %\ld be d>k] ?an ! d>ke/ petal1 b ( c\rse %\ld h>monize4 ,roll ! ends & hem !m d[n4 ,ga!r along "o edge & draw d[n close ar\nd ! loop$ end ( a piece ( tie wire 9 :i* a bun* ( yell[ /am5s h be5 fa/5$4 ,! blossom %\ld be arrang$ ) ! ?ree d>k] petals po9t+ up at ! back ( ! c5t] & ! o!r two at ! front droop+4 ,,no4 #b ,,patt]n ,,= ,,! ,,c5t]-- ,?is c5t] is made f a piece ( velvet ribbon ?ree & "o-half in*es long & "o & "o-qu>t] in*es wide4 ,fold l5g?wise1 ) ! sat9 side out4 ,at "o end sew /raight across1 mak+ a seam "o-eigh? ( an in* deep & turn4 ,cut ! o!r end l ! diagram & sew ?is ) ! velvet side out1 leav+ a t9y space at ! bottom to ins]t ! wire4 ,?is n[ looks some?+ l a ,jack 9 ! ,pulpit4 ,twi/ a few yell[ /am5s 9 ! end ( a piece ( sev5-in* tie wire & pu% ! o!r end d[n ?r\gh ! little op5+ left at ! l[] po9t & draw ! /am5s d[n 9 z l[ z desir$4 ,make a small1 %ort loop 9 ! tie wire close to ! blossom to prev5t its slipp+ back d[n on ! wire4 ,ea* ye> !re are new developm5ts 9 fl[] mak+1 b ! pr9ciples are ! same4 ,if a few are ma/]$1 !re is usually v little difficulty exp]i5c$ 9 copy+ o!rs :i* may appe> f ye> to ye>4 ,lovely fl[]s may be made f a few in*es ( hat braids :i* are left ov] or f wool & raffia1 mal9e or color$ nets4 ,,blossoms ,,( ,,mal9e ,,or ,,net-- ,^! may be made by us+ ! same patt]n z = ! ,am]ican ,beauty rose1 select+ ! size requir$4 7,see illu/ration47 ,lay a /rip ( tie wire inside along ! bias fold4 ,ga!r along ! curv$ edge & draw d[n tight4 ,?is br+s ! two ends ( ! tie wire toge!r1 & !y %\ld be twi/$ lightly4 ,arrange f\r or five leaves ar\nd a few yell[ /am5s4 ,if gre5 tie wire is us$1 x is n necess>y to w9d ! /ems2 o!rwise br[n gum tissue may be w\nd ar\nd ! /em4 ,f ?is patt]n _m diff]5t blossoms may be made1 v>y+ x slightly1 su* z rosebuds1 sweet peas1 & apple blossoms4 ,,sweet ,,peas-- ,cut f\r petals aft] ! same patt]n1 mak+ "o ab\t "o & "o-half in*es & two "o in*1 !n a small "o = ! c5t]1 or a few knots ( baby ribbon may be us$ = ! c5t]4 ,arrange ! petals 9 a natural-look+ blossom4 ,,violets-- ,no fl[] is m popul> ?an ! violet1 & a clu/] ( h&some violets make a mo/ acceptable gift at any "t4 ,violet-color$ sat9 ribbon ab\t "o-qu>t] ( an in* 9 wid? is us$4 ,beg9 by ty+ a knot "o in* f ! end1 tie ano!r "o in* f ?is knot2 cont9ue until !re are five or six knots "o in* ap>t4 ,9 ty+1 try to keep ! sat9 side ( ! ribbon out & make z r\nd a knot z possible by pu%+ ! ribbon edges toge!r on ! knot4 ,d n tie too tightly4 ,a little practice is ne$$1 b ! blossom is easily made4 ,hold ! fir/ knot betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 br+ ! ?ird knot up & place ) x1 !n ! fif?1 & s on1 until ! knots are all plac$--usually ?ree on "o side1 & two or ?ree on ! o!r4 ,cut gre5 tie wire six or sev5 in*es long = /ems4 ,w9d an in* ( ! end ov] ! ribbon betwe5 ^! fold$ knots & twi/4 ,cut ! ribbon (f po9t$1 leav+ "o-half in* end4 ,two %ades ( ribbon may be us$ if desir$4 ,sometimes a few yell[ /am5s are fa/5$ 9 ) ! wire or a few ,fr5* knots 9 yell[ add$ at ! c5t] aft] ! blossom is made1 b nei!r is ne$$ & add b little to ! beauty ( ?is little blossom4 ,%ape ! petals up ar\nd ! c5t]4 ,! foliage = ?is fl[] c be b\ght1 or made accord+ to directions giv5 else:]e4 ,a spray ( almo/ any foliage w d4 ,a small rosebud1 a morn+-glory or an or*id add$ to a b\quet ( violets w make x d\bly *>m+4 ,,daisies-- ,daisies may be made f "o-qu>t] in* ribbon1 us+ z _m petals z desir$4 ,cut ! ribbon into two & "o-half-in* l5g?s4 ,tie a knot 9 ! c5t]4 ,sew ! ends to a small1 r\nd piece ( buckram4 ,if two r[s ( petals are us$1 ! second r[ may be made "o-qu>t] ( an in* %ort]4 ,! c5t] may be cov]$ ) ready-made daisy c5t]s or a few ,fr5* knots4 ,! /em ( wire is tack$ to ! buckram on ! back & may be w\nd ) gre5 floss4 ,,g]aniums-- ,^! fl[]s are made ( g]anium-color$ sat9 ribbon4 ,use ! same me?od z 9 mak+ violets1 except t yell[ /am5s %\ld always be add$4 ,,fruit ,,apples-- ,! mat]ial requir$ = mak+ apples is cut into a circle ( any size desir$ & f any mat]ial4 ,! edge %\ld be turn$ 9 "o-sixte5? ( an in* & ga!r$ all ar\nd4 ,place ?is ov] a piece ( cotton batt+1 ov] :i* a piece ( wire has be5 twi/$1 leav+ ends long en\gh = a /em4 ,add a suffici5t am\nt ( cotton to fill ! mat]ial out well4 ,draw ! ?read tight & sew4 ,a /it* may be caught ?r\gh ! c5t] & pull$ d[n1 or a little tuft ( br[n embroid]y ?read sew$ to ! c5t] to give a m reali/ic look4 ,! apple may be t9t$ ) wat]-color if desir$4 ,9 t case ! entire apple %\ld be moi/5$ fir/ & !n ! color appli$ & all[$ to dry4 ,,*]ries-- ,^! are made f a small] circle ( mat]ial ?an ! apple--sat9 or velvet w\ld make a *>m+ clu/]4 ,! me?od us$ is ! same z = ! apple1 except t !re w\ld be no /it* 9 ! c5t]4 ,!y %\ld also be fill$ until !y are h>d4 ,use tie wire = ! /ems4 ,,plums-- ,^! may be made f a piece ( plum-color$ mat]ial on a true bias1 two & "o-qu>t] in*es long & "o & "o-qu>t] in*es wide4 ,sew ! ends toge!r on ! wrong side4 ,turn1 ga!r "o end "o-eigh? ( an in* f ! edge4 ,pull ! ?read up tight & sew4 ,?is makes ! bl[ end4 ,turn ! l[] edge 9 "o-eigh? ( an in* & ga!r4 ,fill ) cotton to :i* a piece ( tie wire has be5 atta*$ & pull close to wire & sew4 ,add z mu* cotton z necess>y to procure ! "r %ape be=e f9i%+4 ,,rais9s-- ,^! may be made f ga!r+ a fold$ circle ( plum-color$ mat]ial "o-eigh? ( an in* f ! edge1 b us$ )\t fill+ ) cotton4 ,sew to ! end ( loop$ tie wire & w9d ! wire ) br[n gum tissue4 ,arrange 9 a clu/]4 ,always w>m ! tissue be=e us+ s t x w adh]e4 ,,grapes-- ,^! are made ! same z *]ries1 except a clu/] w\ld h sev]al sizes4 ,!y are beautiful made f black velvet4 ,a clu/] ( grapes to sew flat to hat may be made by cov]+ diff]5t sizes ( button molds & arrang+ !m on a hat to look l a clu/]4 ,,m\rn+ ,,mill9]y ,hats worn :5 "o is 9 m\rn+ are ne>ly always small & made ( black crepe ) a few folds ( :ite crepe ne> ! face4 ,! cov]+ ( crepe is always l9$1 pref]ably ) %eet wadd+ to give ! s(t appe>ance desir$4 ,! trimm+ is ( mill9]'s folds or flat fl[]s made ( ! crepe4#ih-a ,! m\rn+ veils us$ may h a simple wide hem sew$ d[n by h& or an appli$ hem4 ,! appli$ hem is mu* ! h&som] f9i%4 ,,appli$ ,,hem ,,on ,a ,,veil-- ,= a hem ?ree in*es wide1 cut a /rip six in*es 9 wid? & long en\gh to rea* ar\nd ! edge ( ! veil plus ?ree in*es = ea* corn]4 ,x takes t mu* extra l5g? to mitre a corn] ( a rectangul> veil4 ,fold ?is /rip l5g?wise 9 ! middle & ba/e ) f9e runn+ /it*es "o in* f ! fold to hold ! fold flat4 ,measure ?is /rip at ! edge ( ! veil to locate ! place :]e ! fold mu/ be mitr$ at ! corn]s4 ,cut a ,v-%ap$ piece f ?is fold to )9 "o-qu>t] ( an in* ( ! fold4 ,cut ?r\gh bo? ?icknesses4 ,sew ^! raw edges toge!r 9 a seam "o-qu>t] ( an in* deep & ! result w be a mitr$ corn]4 ,ea* corn] %\ld be c>efully plann$ & mitr$ be=e sew+ to ! veil4 ,next turn bo? raw edges d[n t[>d ! inside "o-qu>t] ( an in* & ba/e sep>ately4 ,slip ! edge ( ! veil betwe51 p9 c>efully 9 place1 ba/e & slip/it* ! edges to ! veil4 ,bo? edges may be /it*$ at ! same "t4 ,if ?is "w is c>efully done1 ! result m ?an repays ! "t sp5t ^u x4 ,! veil is a v important "p ( ! hat & may be adju/$ 9 any becom+ way4 ,x may =m "p ( ! cov]+ ( ! hat1 & is !n arrang$ 9 becom+ folds t[>d ! back & all[$ to fall to any desir$ l5g?4 ,x makes a becom+ backgr\nd = ! face4 ,m\rn+ mill9]y is n us$ z mu* z =m]ly1 b ^? :o desire to adh]e to ! cu/om w f9d ! /yle little *ang$4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote #ih-a3 ,see *apt] on ,fl[]s4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,remodel+ ,,& ,,r5ovat+ ,,/raw ,,%apes-- ,,brim--,bru% well to remove all ! du/4 ,if ! brim is too wide1 a few r[s ( braid may be remov$ f ! edge1 & ! edge ref9i%$ ) "o or m r[s ( ornam5tal braid ( ! same color4 ,if x seems necess>y to use an edge wire1 ?is la/ r[ ( braid may be made to cov] x1 or a bias fold ( sat91 silk1 velvet1 or ribbon may be sew$ ov] ! wire4 ,,cr[n--,:5 ! cr[n ( a /raw hat is f\nd to be too l[ = ! pres5t /yle1 ! cr[n may be ripp$ f ! brim1 a n>r[ piece ( buckram sew$ to ! bottom ( ! cr[n & !n sew$ back to ! brim4 ,( c\rse trimm+ mu/ be plann$ to cov] up ?is buckram4 ,if ! cr[n is too high1 a few r[s ( braid may be remov$ at ! bottom ( ! cr[n1 en\gh to give ! desir$ height4 ,,to ,,put ,a ,,/raw ,,hat ,,into ,,%ape-- ,if ! g5]al outl9es ( a /raw %ape are f\nd to be good1 or if x only ne$s slight re%ap+1 x c be done at home ) satisfactory results4 ,x is really home-block+ by ! use ( heavy c>dbo>d4 ,a r\nd$ cr[n c be made flat on top1 & a slightly roll+ brim c be made into a /raight brim by us+ ?is me?od4 ,x is a joy to take an old1 disc>d$1 batt]$ /raw hat & make x into a fre%-look+ & up-to-date hat1 a piece ( "w :i* any "o may well be pr\d (4 ,cut f a piece ( heavy c>dbo>d ! exact %ape & size ( :i* ! cr[n top is to be made4 ,cut ano!r ! exact height ( ! cr[n & long en\gh to fit ar\nd ! head1 all[+ ! ends to j meet4 ,sew ^! pieces ( c>dbo>d toge!r :i* w make a cr[n ! exact %ape y wi%4 ,damp5 ! /raw cr[n suffici5tly to make x v pliable & pull x into %ape ov] ?is c>dbo>d cr[n4 ,turn ! cr[n upside d[n on a flat surface & place a weight 9 ! cr[n4 ,a flatiron or a small /one j> w make a good weight4 ,b9d ! outside firmly & smoo?ly ) a clo?1 p9 9 place1 & leave to dry4 ,aft] x is ?or\ghly dry1 remove ! clo?1 & be=e remov+ x f ! block1 cov] ) a coat+ or two ( "s good color+ :i* may be b\ght = ! purpose4 ,?is c be procur$ 9 sev]al colors1 b mu/ be put on ) a /iff bru% & rubb$ 9 well 9 ord] to produce an ev5 %ade4 ,if ! brim is roll+ & is to be made flat1 damp5 x ?or\ghly1 press x d[n flat on a smoo? surface1 & cov] ) weights2 leave until dry1 :5 a few coats ( color+ may be appli$4 ,if ! brim is sep>ate f ! cr[n1 ! hat may be completely *ang$ by slipp+ ! brim d[n ov] ! cr[n1 leav+ x an in* or s f ! bottom on "o side or 9 ! back1 mak+ a b&eau :i* l5ds itself to trimm+ ( fl[]s1 ribbons1 or mal9es4 ,9 ?is case ! bottom ( ! cr[n w\ld require a wire sew$ on at ! edge to keep x 9 %ape4 ,if a high lu/] is desir$1 a coat+ ( %ellac may be appli$ ! la/ ?+ be=e trimm+4 ,,light ,,/raw ,,hats-- ,light /raw hats may be clean$ by ! use ( soap & wat] or gasol9e4 ,if ! hat is 9 ne$ ( blea*+1 sulphur & wat] may be us$1 or a comm]cial blea*+ fluid may be b\ght all ready to use accord+ to pr9t$ directions4 ,two or ?ree coat+s ( color+ w *ange ! color4 ,pleas+ results are sometimes obta9$ by us+ two diff]5t colors1 "o ov] ! o!r4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 requires exp]i5ce & %\ld be tri$ out be=e us+ on a hat4 ,,:5 ,,/raw ,,is ,,to ,,be ,,re-,,sew$-- ,rip c>efully f ! f\ndation2 bru% & press c>efully4 ,"s /raw w n /& damp5+1 s try out a small piece fir/4 ,place x on a heavily-padd$ bo>d & press on ! wrong side4 ,,panama ,,hats-- ,x is mu* m satisfactory to s5d a ,panama to a good pr(essional clean]4 ,a ,panama hat may be made less sev]e-look+ by ! addition ( an und]fac+ on ! brim ( "s %e] mat]ial1 su* z georgette or crepe de *9e1 f9i%$ (f at ! edge ov] a wire4 ,! fac+ may be put on top ( ! brim if desir$4 ,! entire cr[n is sometimes *ang$ by cov]+ x ) a figur$ *iffon drawn d[n tightly & f9i%$ at ! bottom ) a b& & b[ ( ribbon4 ,ano!r *ange might be made by cov]+ ! entire cr[n ) fl[] petals sew$ d[n flat & int]m+l$ ) gre5 leaves4 ,!y %\ld !n be cov]$ ) a lay] or m ( mal9e4 ,?is is a good way to use up old fl[]s4 ,! fl[]s w /& a lot ( ret\*+ ) color :5 !y are veil$4 ,,old ,,buckram ,,frames-- ,:5 a cov]$ buckram %ape has become brok5 & out ( %ape1 remove all ! cov]+4 ,damp5 ! frame & press ) a hot iron4 ,a roll ( clo? or pap] mu/ be held 9 ! h& :ile press+ ! cr[n4 ,a break 9 buckram is difficult to remove2 h[ev]1 if new mat]ial is n available1 mu* may be done ) ! old4 ,d n remove ! headsize wire unless a p5cil m>k is made :]e x is to be sew$4 ,if ! headsize wire is too l>ge or too small1 n[ is ! "t to *ange x4 ,if ! g5]al %ape ( ! brim is to be *ang$1 remove ! edge wire & trim to ! requir$ wid?4 ,if x is to droop or roll1 sla% ! brim f ! out] edge to ! headsize wire & lap "o-qu>t] ( an in* at ! edge4 ,sla% 9 sev]al places if necess>y4 ,sew close to bo? lapp$ edges ( ! buckram & cov] ) a /rip ( musl9 or cr9ol9e sew$ on flat4 ,if a brim is to be made m flat or fl>+1 sla% & add ,v-%ap$ pieces ( buckram4 ,if ! headsize is entirely too l>ge1 ?is may be rem$i$ by divid+ ! brim into halves4 ,remove ! headsize wire & ! edge wire1 cutt+ ?r\gh f front to back4 ,lap & sew2 make ! headsize wire ! requir$ size & sew back on ! brim4 ,trim ! out] edge ( ! brim & add ! edge wire4 ,! same ?+ may be done to ! cr[n4 ,if too l>ge1 divide into halves & lap ! edges until x is ! requir$ size1 or a piece ( mat]ial may be add$ to make ! cr[n l>g]4 ,! cr[n may be l[]$ by cutt+ a piece f ! base1 or rais$ by add+ a piece ( heavy mat]ial at ! base4 ,:5 a fabric-cov]$ brim is *ang$ x w be f\nd difficult to use ! old cov]+1 b x c sometimes be done4 ,,block+ ,,ov] ,,wire ,,frames-- ,if a buckram frame ne$s *ang+ radically1 x may be done by block+ ov] a wire frame made = ! purpose4 ,! wire frame %\ld h six /icks in/ead ( f\r1 & circles n m ?an "o in* ap>t1 %ap$ z desir$4 ,old or new buckram1 nete51 or any co>se mat]ial :i* has be5 heavily />*$1 may be us$4 ,wet ! fabric ?or\ghly ) w>m wat]4 ,block ! cr[n fir/4 ,place ! mat]ial ov] ! cr[n & pull x d[n until all ! wr9kles are remov$1 p9 closely to ! headsize wire all ar\nd4 ,:5 dry1 m>k ) a p5cil all ar\nd close to ! headsize wire1 remove f ! frame1 cut on ! p5cil m>k & sew a headsize wire on ! edge4 ,if !re are m>ks ( ! wire to be remov$1 hold a clo? on ! inside ( ! cr[n & press lightly ) a hot iron4 ,! brim is manag$ 9 ! same way4 ,m>k at ! headsize1 cut (f at ?is po9t "o-half in* inside ! m>k1 & sew a headsize wire on ! p5cil m>k4 ,m>k at ! edge wire1 cut (f at ! p5cil m>k1 & f9i% ) edge wire4 ,,new ,,brims ,,= ,,old ,,cr[ns-- ,if ! brim ( a hat is pa/ r5ew+1 a new "o may be made1 or ! wire brim f an old hat may be us$ ) a cr[n ( velvet1 or any fabric or /raw4 ,! wire brim may be re-cov]$ ) georgette--an old1 half-worn wai/ w d nicely1 us+ ! back or sleeves1 or any portions t are n too badly worn4 ,:5 a heavi] cr[n is us$1 ! edge ( a %e] brim %\ld h a fold ( mat]ial l ! cr[n sew$ at ! edge1 or a r[ ( /raw :5 ! cr[n is ( /raw braid4 ,,felt ,,& ,,beav] ,,hats-- ,:5 soil$1 clean ) gasol9e & cornmeal4 ,to re/ore ! gloss1 rub ! hat ) a v f9e piece ( s&pap] :i* has be5 tack$ ov] a small block ( wood4 ,rub ) ! nap4 ,to complete ! process1 remove ! s&pap] & sub/itute a piece ( velvet4 ,rub ?is on a hot iron1 !n on beeswax4 ,cont9ue ! op]ation ( rubb+ ! hat ) ! nap until x is re/or$ to its orig9al fre%ness4 ,! cr[n mu/ be pack$ ) clo? be=e rubb+ to keep x solid en\gh to d satisfactory "w4 ,if ! brim ( a felt or beav] hat ne$s cutt+ d[n at ! edge1 m>k ) a piece ( *alk :]e ! brim is to be cut4 ,sew on ?is l9e ) an un?read$ sew+ ma*9e sev]al times1 & ! felt w be cut ?r\gh & ! edge brok5 (f at ?is po9t4 ,?is looks mu* bett] ?an :5 cut ) %e>s or ) a knife4 ,,r5ovation ,,( ,,hat ,,cov]+s ,,& ,,l9+s-- ,to fre%5 velvet & raise ! pile1 bru% well to remove ! du/4 ,) ! wrong side d[n1 hold x ov] ! sp\t ( a tea-kettle ( rapidly boil+ wat]4 ,an assi/ant is ne$$ to bru% x lightly z x is pass$ back & =? ov] ! /eam4 ,! great =ce ( ! /eam w raise ! pile mu* m quickly ?an ! me?od ( us+ a damp clo? ov] a hot iron4 ,if ! velvet aft] /eam+ is f\nd to be /ill too imp]fect or fad$ to be us$ on ! hat pla91 x may be ga!r$ a half in* ap>t or m & us$ ei!r on ! cr[n or ! brim1 or x may be mirror$ by iron+ on ! "r side ) a hot iron1 always iron+ lightly "o way1 us+ a sweep+ motion4 ,d n let ! iron re/ = a second on ! mat]ial or x w leave a m>k4 ,,to ,,fre%5 ,,crepe ,,= ,,m\rn+ ,,mill9]y-- ,bru% ! crepe ) a f9e bru% to remove ! du/4 ,clean 9 gasol9e if necess>y4 ,crepe may be made to look l new if p9n$ d[n smoo?ly & ev5ly on a padd$ surface1 a damp clo? plac$ ov] x1 !n a hot iron pass$ ov] x )\t t\*+ x1 b ne> en\gh s t a slight am\nt ( /eam w damp5 ! crepe4 ,remove ! clo? & all[ ! crepe to dry 9 place4 ,crepe becomes %abby-look+ quickly if n giv5 ! be/ ( c>e4 ,,clean+1 ,,curl+1 ,,& ,,t9t+ ,,fea!rs-- ,to clean1 imm]se ! fea!r 9 gasol9e to :i* has be5 add$ a few spoonfuls ( cornmeal4 ,draw ! fea!r ?r\gh ! h&s sev]al times until x is clean2 r9se 9 cle> gasol9e & %ake 9 ! fre% air till dry4 ,a v light-color$ or :ite fea!r may be t9t$ by dissolv+ "s oil pa9t 9 ! gasol9e us$ = r9s+4 ,to curl1 draw ! flues1 a v few at a "t1 ov] a blunt knife4 ,a plume is r difficult to sew on a hat & produce ! desir$ effect4 ,! end ( ! quill may be sew$ v firmly to ! hat1 :ile ! tip ( ! plume %\ld n be sew$ close to ! hat1 o!rwise x w look /iff4 ,,ribbons-- ,if soil$1 !y may be clean$ 9 gasol9e or soap & wat]1 us+ a bru%4 ,d n rub or wr+4 ,hang up to drip dry1 or w9d tightly ar\nd a bottle & leave to dry4 ,d n press until aft] tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 if clean$ 9 gasol9e4 ,to produce extra /iffness1 r9se 9 a weak solution ( sug> & wat]4 ,x is also v easy to *ange ! color ( ribbons by us+ any ( ! comm]cial cold dyes4 ,,fl[]s-- ,if fl[]s are fad$1 !y may be t\*$ up ) wat]-color4 ,if !y are p9k1 r\ge may be us$ effectively4 ,if ! edges are mu* fray$1 trim !m slightly ) ! %e>s4 ,gre5 leaves may be dipp$ 9 hot p>aff9e to re/ore _! gloss1 or press$ ) a w>m iron )\t p>aff9e4 ,ev5 v imp]fect fl[]s may be made to look well if veil$ ) mal9e or georgette4 ,,quills-- ,quills are sometimes improv$ by pass+ !m betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] on :i* a small am\nt ( vasel9e or oil has be5 plac$4 ,a quill may be curv$ by hold+ x ov] ! sp\t ( a tea-kettle ( rapidly boil+ wat]4 ,place a dull knife on ! und]side & press ! quill h>d en\gh to make a %>p d5t4 ,d ?is e half in*4 ,if ! quill is suffici5tly /eam$ ?is may be accompli%$ easily1 & ! result is p]man5t4 ,,w+s-- ,loose fea!rs %\ld be glu$ 9 place & ! w+ cov]$ ) mal9e or a hair net ( ! same color4 ,w+s may be cov]$ ) a coat ( %ellac :i* /iff5s !m & gives !m a v glossy look4 ,,lace-- ,mo/ laces may be wa%$ 9 w>m1 soapy wat]4 ,press g5tly 9 ! h&s--d n rub4 ,press ! wat] out aft] hav+ r9s$ ! lace well 9 w>m wat]4 ,%ake g5tly & p9 d[n smoo?ly on a %eet1 be+ c>eful to /ret* & p9 ea* scallop 9 place4 ,all[ x to dry4 ,if necess>y press slightly ) a w>m iron on ! wrong side4 ,"s laces are greatly improv$ by press+4 ,,mal9es-- ,mal9es may be us$ to good advantage1 ev5 if p>ts are badly worn & fad$4 ,place a ?91 damp clo? ov] !m & press ) a w>m iron4 ,all[ to dry ?or\ghly be=e remov+ f ! iron+-bo>d4 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s note ,! foll[+ typographical errors 7 correct$4 ,page ,*ange #ah ,,to ,,cov] ,,side ,,cr[n *ang$ to ,,to ,,cov] ,,side ,,cr[n-- #ajh ,,crepe *ang$ to ,,crepe #aaj ,,w+s *ang$ to ,,w+s--