file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #aigdj-;h4htm or #aigdj-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ i_/g_/d_/aigdj_/aigdj-;h_/#aigdj-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ i_/g_/d_/aigdj_/aigdj-;h4zip7 ,transcriber's note ,obvious printer's errors have been corrected4 ,a list of corrections is found at the end of the text4 ,,make ,,your ,,own ,,hats by ,,gene ,,allen ,,martin ,director of ,domestic ,arts ,department of the ,minneapolis ,y4,w4,c4,a42 ,designer1 ,demonstrator and ,instructor in ,millinery ,illustrated by ,e4 ,e4 ,martin ,illustration ,boston and ,new ,york ,houghton ,mifflin ,company ,the ,riverside ,press ,cambridge ,copyright1 #aiba1 by ,gene ,allen ,martin ,all ,rights ,reserved ,the ,riverside ,press ,cambridge 4 ,massachusetts ,printed in the ,u4,s4,a4 ,,foreword ,hat-making is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing patience and ordinary ability4 ,to make a hat for the trade is not as difficult as to make one for an individual2 neither is it so high a phase of art4 ,many rules are given for crown-height1 brim-width1 and color1 as being suited to different types of faces1 but they are so often misleading that it seems best to consider only a few1 since the becomingness of a hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the individual for which there are no rules4 ,a girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays--gray-green1 cream color1 salmon pink2 a touch of henna with gold or orange2 mulberry if the eyes are dark4 ,the woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the skin is clear4 ,one having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown1 a pale yellow or cream color becoming--possibly a mulberry if just the right depth4 ,a hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of rose will add color to the cheeks4 ,no reds should be worn unless the skin is clear4 ,no shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any one having blue eyes--it seems to make the blue paler4 ,any one having auburn hair1 blue eyes1 and a clear skin may wear browns1 grays1 greens1 tan1 blue1 and black4 ,black should not be worn next the face unless the skin is brilliant4 ,it is1 however1 very becoming to blondes1 and to women whose hair has become quite white4 ,a black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe1 and it may always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is especially becoming to the wearer--black and white is always a smart combination1 but very difficult to handle4 ,in regard to lines--it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having round shoulders or a short neck4 ,a hat turned up at the back would be much better4 ,a narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer4 ,a woman with a short1 turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too sharply from the face4 ,short people should avoid very wide brims4 ,for the possessor of a very full1 round face the high crown and narrow brim1 or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side1 or all around1 should prove becoming4 ,a tall1 slender woman would do well to wear a drooping brim1 wide enough to be in keeping with her height4 ,there is one style of hat which seems to be1 with various modifications1 universally becoming1 and that is the bicorne1 a form of the ,napoleon style of hat4 ,after all1 experience is the best teacher4 ,whenever a hat is found to be especially becoming1 one would do well to find out just why it is so and make a note of the color1 size1 and general outline4 ,these notes are of value if kept for future reference1 whether hats are to be made for the shop or for home millinery4 ,a hat is seldom becoming all the way around1 but the aim should be to make it so4 ,over-ornamentation should be guarded against1 also too close harmony in color until much experience has been gained4 ,a rule by which to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception is this--the hat must enhance your looks4 ,if you do not look more pleasing with it on than with it off1 it is not as good a model for you as it might be4 ,in planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves4 ,a hat1 as well as any article of clothing1 may express many things--dejection1 happiness1 decision1 indecision1 gayety1 dignity1 graciousness1 a trained or an untrained mind1 forethought1 refinement1 generosity1 cruelty1 or recklessness4 ,how often we hear some one say1 ,that hat looks just like ,mrs4 ,blank6 ,clothing of any kind is an index to the personality of the wearer4 ,a friend once said in my presence to a saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat1 ,but ,i do not feel like that hat6 ,the saleswoman replied1 ,that's just it--you refuse to buy it because you do not feel like it1 while ,i tell you that it is most becoming4 ,all of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most remote idea of what was meant1 and had a total lack of understanding4 ,clothes should be a matter of feeling1 and this same feeling is something vital and should be catered to if our garments are to help set our spirits free4 ,why should we wear anything which is misleading in regard to ourselves8 ,let us look in the mirror each day and ask ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are4 ,it is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as under artificial light4 ,it should also be tried on in a good light while standing before a mirror1 as a hat which may seem becoming while sitting may not be so while standing1 with the whole figure taken into consideration4 ,to make one's own hats1 using up old materials1 stimulates originality and gives opportunity for expression4 ,it is amazing to see how many new ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought quite impossible4 ,it all helps to give added zest to life4 ,making one's own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from the matter of thrift1 which should always be taken into consideration4 ,some one will say1 ,i would not wear any hat ,i might make4 ,how often have we worn unbecoming hats1 poor in workmanship1 besides paying some one handsomely for the privilege4 ,let us try to form some standard by which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name4 ,before making a hat1 the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over to see with what the hat must be worn1 and the kind of service we are going to expect from it4 ,every article of a costume should be related and harmonious as to color1 outline1 and suitability4 ,the result should be a perfect whole without a single discord4 ,how often we see a green skirt1 mustard-colored coat1 and a bright blue hat--each article pleasing by itself1 but atrocious when worn collectively4 ,bright1 gay little hats are pleasing when seen seldom1 but we soon tire of one if it must be worn daily4 ,time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel4 ,the proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect1 and the respect of others4 ,to be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes4 ,we judge and are judged by the clothes we wear--they are an outward expression of ourselves1 and speak for us1 while we must remain silent4 ,simplicity is the keynote of beauty--no one article of clothing should stand out too conspicuously1 unless it is the hat4 ,nature uses bright colors sparingly4 ,if you look at a plant1 you find it dark near the ground1 growing lighter near the top with its green leaves1 and then the blossom2 the glory is at the top4 ,everything in nature teaches us to look up4 ,so the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume1 the center of interest1 and should receive the most careful attention as to becomingness1 suitability1 and workmanship4 ,,contents ,i4 ,,equipment ,,and ,,materials #a ,,ii4 ,,covering ,,frame ,,with ,,velvet #ae ,,iii4 ,,frames ,,of ,,neteen ,,and ,,crinoline #ca ,,iv4 ,,wire ,,frames #ce ,v4 ,,round ,,crown ,,of ,,wire #dd ,,vi4 ,,hat ,,coverings #ed ,,vii4 ,,trimmings #fh ,,viii4 ,,hand-,,made ,,flowers #gh ,,ix4 ,,remodeling ,,and ,,renovating #ajj ,,illustrations ,,showing ,,shaped ,,brim ,,of ,,neteen ,,with ,,ribbon-,,wire ,,braces ,,basted ,,in ,,place #d ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,fitting ,,fabric ,,to ,,shaped ,,brim #af ,,showing ,,under ,,facing ,,of ,,brim ,,pinned ,,over ,,wire ,,ready ,,to ,,sew ,,in ,,place #af ,,various ,,processes #cf ,,fancy ,,crown-,,tip ,,of ,,braid #dd ,,rolling ,,wire ,,brim #dd ,,round ,,crown ,,of ,,wire #dd ,,one ,,method ,,of ,,starting ,,the ,,braid ,,on ,,crown ,,and ,,sewing ,,in ,,place #ed ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,covering ,,crown ,,with ,,two-,,inch ,,wide ,,bias ,,satin #fd ,,ribbon ,,trimmings #gb ,,hand-,,made ,,flowers #gh ,,make ,,your ,,own ,,hat ,,chapter ,i ,,equipment ,,and ,,materials ,,equipment ,thimble ,thread ,needles ,tape-measure ,pins ,tailor's chalk or pencil ,milliner's pliers or wire cutters ,scissors1 large and small ,paper for patterns ,thimble--good quality ,thread--,geneva lustre1 black and white1 number #cf4 ,colored thread as needed4 ,needles--assorted paper of milliner's needles1 #h to #aj4 ,tape-measure--of good quality sateen4 ,tailor's chalk--white and dark blue4 ,milliner's pliers--pliers which fit the hand1 not too heavy1 with blunt points1 and sharp enough to cut a thread4 ,,materials ,,used ,,to ,,make ,,hat ,,frames ,fabrics-- ,buckram ,crinoline ,cape net ,neteen or ,fly net ,willow plate ,wires-- ,cable ,frame or brace wire ,lace ,tie ,ribbon ,sprung ,paper for patterns-- ,heavy manila ,,buckram-- ,comes in black and white1 about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff material1 smooth on one side and rather rough on the other4 ,it is more commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric4 ,there is also a summer buckram1 lighter in weight and smooth on both sides4 ,,crinoline-- ,comes in black and white1 twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff1 thin1 open-meshed material1 used to make soft hat frames1 to cover wire frames1 and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the fabric frame4 ,,neteen ,,or ,,fly ,,net-- ,a stiff open-meshed material--comes in black1 white1 and ecru1 one yard wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and lightness4 ,it is used for blocking frames and copying1 the lines being much softer than when made with buckram4 ,very durable4 ,,cape ,,net-- ,a light-weight1 open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft frames4 ,not as pliable as neteen4 ,,willow ,,plate-- ,a coarse straw-like material1 light in weight1 brittle1 and very expensive1 used in blocking2 frames are also made from it without blocking4 ,must be dampened before using4 ,not recommended for amateurs4 ,,wire comes in black1 white1 silver1 and gilt1 and is covered with cotton1 mercerized cotton1 and silk4 ,it may be procured in single and double bolts4 ,,cable-- ,largest wire used in millinery4 ,in making wire frames1 it is used as edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame4 ,being larger than frame wire1 it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame design1 if it is to be covered with sheer material4 ,,frame ,,or ,,brace ,,wire-- ,used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric hat frames4 ,,lace-- ,smaller than frame wire1 used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers1 and sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is desired4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,shaped ,,brim ,,of ,,neteen ,,with ,,ribbon-,,wire ,,braces ,,basted ,,in ,,place ,,tie-- ,smallest wire used in millinery2 comes wound on spools4 ,is used to tie other wires1 and in making hand-made flowers4 ,comes in black1 white1 and green4 ,,ribbon-- ,a cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide1 with a fine wire woven through the center1 also a wire on each edge4 ,used to wire ribbons4 ,,sprung-- ,an uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims2 is sometimes sewed on edge of buckram or other fabric brims1 if the hat is unusually wide1 or if a brim is to be especially stiff4 ,it is occasionally used as an edge wire on wire frames4 ,,hat ,,frames ,,of ,,fabric ,much care1 thought1 and patience must be exercised in making the frame of any hat4 ,it is the foundation upon which we build1 and if poorly made no amount of work can cover it up later4 ,a hat must be right every step of the way4 ,the frame is the first step1 and so the most important4 ,the simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square crown1 covered with velvet4 ,such a model we will take up at first4 ,,sailor ,,hat ,,frame-- ,for convenience we will use the following dimensions3 ,width of brim1 three inches2 height of crown1 three and one-half inches2 length of crown tip1 eight and one-half inches2 width of crown tip1 six and one-half inches1 and headsize1 twenty-four inches4 ,,pattern ,,for ,,brim-- ,cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half inches the largest possible circle2 the paper may be folded into halves1 then quarters1 then into eighths and creased4 ,a round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire1 because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head4 ,the front and back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides4 ,,headsize ,,wire-- ,,to ,,measure--,this is especially important1 for upon the accuracy of this measurement depends the comfort of the wearer2 this is the foundation wire4 ,pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this measure4 ,one is for lapping the ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which goes up into the headsize4#g-a ,as our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long1 cut a piece of frame wire twenty-six inches long2 this allows for the two inches just mentioned4 ,lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire4#g-b ,wire always laps one inch--no more1 no less4 ,,to ,,shape--,with the hands inside1 pull the circle until it is elongated to fit the head4 ,this headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part of the head4 ,,to ,,locate ,,headsize ,,on ,,pattern--,lay pattern flat1 pin headsize wire on pattern with joining at back crease in paper1 having the back and front of brim of equal width1 and the two sides of brim of equal width4 ,mark all around headsize wire with a pencil4 ,remove wire and cut paper one-half inch inside this mark4 ,,to ,,cut ,,buckram ,,brim--,lay pattern on smooth side of buckram1 pin1 and cut the edges very smoothly4 ,cut headsize same as pattern4 ,mark location of center back and center front4 ,remove pattern and with a hot iron press the buckram perfectly flat1 being careful not to break or make a sharp bend in the buckram1 for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily repaired4 ,,to ,,sew ,,headsize ,,wire ,,to ,,brim--,first note the relation of headsize wire to brim4 ,if buckram is carefully cut1 the wire may be pinned on one-half inch from edge4 ,the brim has been cut round and will have the appearance of a round hat when worn and yet1 on account of the oval headsize wire1 the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on each side and about two and one-half inches back and front4 ,pin wire on smooth side of buckram with lap at center back1 also pin front and each side1 being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire4 ,bring needle up from under side of brim close to wire1 beginning at lap4 ,take stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right side4 ,take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first1 coming back to right side4 ,repeat all the way around until lap is reached4 ,fasten thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in order to join neatly and prevent their working loose4 ,slash buckram inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up4 ,this makes small flaps to which crown may be fastened later4 ,the brim may now be tried on and changes made if necessary4 ,,edge ,,wire-- ,this is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge of brim and lap one inch4 ,edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim as the headsize wire1 which is usually the smooth side4 ,shape this wire to conform to shape of brim4 ,never depend on the hat or the stitches to hold a wire in place4 ,begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward you1 and sewing from right to left4 ,hold wire as near the edge as possible1 without letting it slip over the edge4 ,sew on with overcasting stitch1 taking two stitches in same hole4 ,take the stitches just the depth of the wire4 ,if too shallow1 the wire will slip off over the edge1 or1 if too deep1 the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking4 ,a frame must be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when finished4 ,,to ,,cover ,,edge ,,wire--,all edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a cheap muslin4 ,cut a strip of such goods on a true bias1 three-eighths of an inch wide4 ,remove the selvage and stretch the strip4 ,bind the edge wire with it1 holding it very tight4 ,sew close to wire using a stab stitch4 ,,right ,,side--,,wrong ,,side-- ,this stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a short back stitch on wrong side4 ,lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch at finish1 but do not turn ends under4 ,,square ,,crown-- ,a square crown is one having a flat top1 or one only slightly rounded1 with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top4 ,a crown of this type three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom4 ,any crown made separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire on the brim at the base4 ,to eliminate any slashes or seams in the side crown1 a paper pattern should be made4 ,following paragraphs explain how this is done4 ,,pattern ,,for ,,slanting ,,side ,,crown-- ,cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure4 ,slash across this paper in four equally distant places1 within one-fourth inch of edge of bottom1 then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch1 or about enough to take out about one and one-half inches4 ,pin slashes4 ,lap ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together4 ,place this pattern on brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim4 ,try on to see if any alterations are necessary4 ,it can be decided at this point and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight4 ,an amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and curves that are becoming4 ,remove pattern from brim and cut off from top and bottom any irregularities on the edge4 ,,to ,,cut ,,side ,,crown ,,from ,,buckram-- ,remove the pins from the seam1 allowing pins in slashes to remain4 ,lay pattern flat on smooth side of buckram1 lengthwise of the material to take advantage of the natural roll4 ,cut close to pattern2 lap the ends one-fourth inch4 ,sew1 using a fine back stitch close to each edge2 this makes two rows of stitching4 ,sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom of side crown1 keeping all joining at back4 ,use same method as in sewing edge wire on brim4 ,cover both wires with crinoline4 ,,crown ,,tips-- ,the top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of buckram1 producing a stiff effect4 ,both methods will be given4 ,,soft ,,crown ,,tip--,first shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim1 which will be an ellipse4 ,cut piece of crinoline1 the exact shape of the crown1 plus one inch all around4 ,pin this over top1 puffing it a very little1 and sew with stab stitch close under wire4 ,cut surplus material off to one-fourth inch4 ,,stiff ,,crown ,,tip1 ,,made ,,of ,,buckram--,lay top of side crown on smooth side of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil4 ,cut buckram one-half inch outside of this mark4 ,next1 in order to fold down this stiff crown tip1 it will be necessary to cut1 from this half-inch of buckram outside the pencil line1 small wedge-like pieces1 about one inch apart4 ,cut them close to the line drawn4 ,pin this piece on top of crown1 press flaps down and sew on with stab stitch4 ,,crowns-- ,if a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent separate crown or a frame with a round crown4 ,if an entire frame is purchased1 remove the crown and wire its bottom edge4 ,after some skill has been acquired by the student of millinery1 a round crown of fabric may be blocked by hand over a wire crown4 ,,to ,,cover ,,round ,,crown-- ,pin material on top of crown with bias at front4 ,pull with the straight of the material and pin just below edge of curve4 ,sew one-half inch below this with stab stitch1 trim material off close under this stitching4 ,remove pins4 ,fit a bias piece of material1 using same method and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter ,,ii4 ,sew the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering4 ,pull this bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place4 ,finish top and bottom of this band by turning the edges over a wire4 ,use same stitch as in finishing edge of facing on brim4#ac-a ,this makes a neat finish for a hat which will demand little trimming4 ,if the amateur finds it too difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way1 the edge may be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon2 the top may also be finished by a narrow ribbon1 but finishing neatly with a wire should be mastered if possible1 as this style of finish is used in many places4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote #g-a3 ,to cut wire see chapter ,,iv4 ,footnote #g-b3 ,to tie wire see chapter ,,iv4 ,footnote #ac-a3 ,see chapter ,,ii4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,covering ,,frame ,,with ,,velvet ,material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet eighteen to twenty-four inches wide4 ,if velvet used is thirty-six inches wide1 one yard will be sufficient4 ,,to ,,cover ,,brim-- ,place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side 7smooth side74 ,edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim4 ,turn velvet over edge of brim and pin4 ,stick pins through at right angles to brim to avoid marring the velvet4 ,pin closely all around edge of brim1 pulling material with the thread to remove any fullness4 ,do not pull tight enough to bend the brim4 ,trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under brim4 ,baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch4 ,cut velvet out inside of headsize wire1 leaving a half inch to slash and turn up with the buckram4 ,,to ,,sew ,,velvet ,,edge ,,to ,,brim-- ,this should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side1 being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet4 ,it is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine1 using a long stitch4 ,this stitching may then be used to put the needle through when sewing the velvet down4 ,if the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking on under side after sewing1 it may be pressed down with a hot iron4 ,if done quickly and lightly1 it will not show on the right side4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,fitting ,,fabric ,,to ,,shaped ,,brim ,,to ,,face ,,under ,,side ,,of ,,brim-- ,pin velvet on under side1 using same method in pinning as that on top of brim4 ,this must be pinned very carefully4 ,cut off velvet all around edge1 leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to turn under4 ,facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire4 ,cut a piece of frame wire the exact circumference of the brim1 plus one inch for lap4 ,bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet1 beginning at the center back4 ,roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge4 ,pin in place all the way around before beginning to sew4 ,place pins in at right angles to brim4 ,a piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent finger marks from showing on the velvet4 ,begin to sew at left of wire joining1 while holding underside of brim towards you4 ,bring needle through from back close under wire4 ,with the head of the needle press velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread of the next stitch4 ,take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper facing4 ,come back under the wire with a very small back stitch1 being careful to adjust the wire as you sew1 and to catch a little of the upper covering with each back stitch4 ,when wire joining is reached1 treat the lapped ends as one wire4 ,fasten ends securely by taking several small back stitches4 ,lace wire1 being smaller than frame wire1 is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing4 ,it does not look as heavy1 but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,under ,,facing ,,of ,,brim ,,pinned ,,over ,,wire ,,ready ,,to ,,sew ,,in ,,place ,,to ,,cover ,,crown ,,top-- ,to cover the top1 cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front1 same shape as top of crown plus one inch all around4 ,gather one-fourth inch from edge1 place over top1 equalize the gathers1 pin in place1 and sew with stab stitch over line of gathering4 ,make the edge lie as flat as possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top4 ,,to ,,cover ,,side ,,crown-- ,cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than height of crown4 ,pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find length and to locate seam4 ,draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of material with warp thread4 7,warp thread is parallel with selvage47 ,remove velvet and stitch seam4 ,open it and press by drawing it over the edge of a hot iron4 ,,to ,,sew ,,crown ,,on ,,brim-- ,the simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before adjusting the side crown covering4 ,pin back1 front1 and each side of crown to brim1 placing seams at back4 ,sew through upturned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire4 ,stretch the velvet strip for side crown on the crown1 placing seam at back1 unless trimming has been planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other point4 ,turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown1 and press bottom fold down close to brim4 ,if this band has been fitted tight enough1 it will not be found necessary to sew it4 ,,edge ,,of ,,brim ,,facing1 ,,when ,,finished ,,without ,,wire-- ,a brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath without a wire1 the edges being slipstitched together4 ,in this case1 the underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place all the way around before beginning to sew4 ,bring the needle through from underside of facing to the very edge of fold4 ,place point of needle directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing1 then take a small stitch in underfacing4 ,each stitch always begins just opposite the ending of preceding stitch1 so that the thread between the two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim4 ,this method makes the work look smooth1 and also it will not pull out of place2 however1 this style of finishing an edge is not popular and requires much practice4 ,,to ,,cover ,,narrow ,,brim ,,sailor ,,without ,,an ,,edge ,,seam-- ,this method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow1 and the fabric pliable4 ,for convenience we will give measurements as for a two and one-half inch brim1 flat sailor1 outside edge measuring forty inches4 ,cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches wide4 ,fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to edge4 ,this is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the brim4 ,if the velvet is not placed evenly1 there will be found a greater amount of fullness on one side than on the other4 ,place velvet over the brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins4 ,stretch as tight as possible4 ,on a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked out4 ,if this is found to be very difficult1 lay the brim aside1 with the velvet pinned on1 for an hour or for overnight1 and the velvet will be found to give a little more4 ,remove as much of the length as possible4 ,locate seam1 remove from frame1 sew seam1 and replace as before4 ,sew on top close to headsize wire1 working out all the fullness possible2 pull under part up into headsize4 ,sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire onto the flaps1 being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the headsize wire will be reduced in size4 ,,facings-- ,a pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing on a black hat4 ,the entire facing may be of a contrasting color or extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the brim4 ,in this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a wire4 ,then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this with another wire4 ,,brims ,,covered ,,with ,,two ,,kinds ,,of ,,fabric-- ,a flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics1 which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors4 ,small pieces of old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the same time have much charm4 ,for instance1 the edge of the hat could have a bias band of satin1 two or more inches wide1 stretched around the edge of the brim1 with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom1 or only on one side4 ,underside of brim may be finished the same way1 or the facing may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire4 ,,shaped ,,brim ,,foundation-- ,the simplest shaped brim is the mushroom style4 ,,to ,,make ,,pattern ,,for ,,brim-- ,make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor4 ,measure the same for the headsize wire1 join ends of wire1 shape to fit the head1 and pin on paper pattern of any desired width4 ,to make the brim droop1 slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four different places equally distant4 ,lap these slashes one-fourth inch at the edge1 and pin4 ,the pattern may also be slashed in eight or more different places if desired1 the slashes being adjusted by lapping more or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming4 ,after the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily1 mark with a pencil all around just inside the headsize wire4 ,remove the wire and cut the paper on this line4 ,cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side of buckram1 leaving pins in slashes4 ,cut close to outside edge and allow one-fourth inch for the lap at ends4 ,mark on buckram with pencil close to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark4 ,lap ends one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap4 ,sew a strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up4 ,sew headsize wire on place marked1 which will be one-half inch from inside edge4 ,keep all joinings at back4 ,slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every half inch4 ,wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline--same method as used on sailor brim4 ,,to ,,cover ,a ,,mushroom-,,shaped ,,brim-- ,if not very drooping1 it may be covered without making a seam in the material4 ,to do this1 begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top at the front of the brim4 ,pin the front1 back1 and each side1 always pulling with the thread of the material1 and pin closely at edge1 with pins at right angles to the brim4 ,if covered with georgette1 satin or silk1 which is pliable1 the fullness may all be worked out without a seam4 ,baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same method as used in finishing sailor brim4 ,also follow same method with facing4 ,if the material used is not pliable1 or if the brim is too drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly1 a seam must be made at the back4 ,the method would be the same as used in covering the rolled brim4 ,,sheer ,,materials-- ,in covering with anything as sheer as georgette1 it is advisable to line with some other material first4 ,the color could be made deeper by using a lining of the same color1 or made paler by lining with white4 ,the lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material4 ,,pattern ,,for ,,hat ,,with ,,rolled ,,or ,,close-,,fitting ,,brim-- ,the pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper4 ,the headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on4 ,the pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge1 the slashes lapped over and pinned4 ,if the hat is to be rolled more closely on one side than on the other1 the greater number of slashes must be placed there4 ,in this way the pattern can be adjusted to any desired shape4 ,it is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern through in the back1 leaving pins in the slashes1 and lay out flat on another piece of paper for a new pattern4 ,this eliminates some of the slashes and makes further experiments easier4 ,pattern-making is very important1 and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as possible before cutting the foundation fabric4 ,changing a pattern the slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its becomingness4 ,of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two in the buckram1 or by inserting a ,v shape to give more flare1 but the fewer seams the better for the hat frame4 ,a rolled or close-fitting brim is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape4 ,,to ,,cover ,a ,,close-,,fitting ,,or ,,rolled ,,brim-- ,place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge4 ,always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first lesson4 ,draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin4 ,work the material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge2 also at the headsize wire4 ,then proceed in the same way toward the right1 always pinning closely4 ,be sure to keep the material tight and smooth both at edge and at the headsize wire4 ,allow the fullness to go where it will4 ,the seam should be located at the center back4 ,cut away all superfluous material1 allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back4 ,turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and slipstitch together neatly4 ,,to ,,slipstitch ,,seam-- ,bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite4 ,slip needle along in this fold one-eighth of an inch1 then bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the fold of the other side1 always being careful to begin the stitch exactly opposite the end of the one preceding4 ,try to cut the material out from inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for something else4 ,examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits perfectly4 ,baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the outside2 remove all pins as soon as possible4 ,after basting this1 you will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at the edge4 ,turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down with an overcasting stitch4 ,,to ,,glue ,,velvet ,,to ,,the ,,brim-- ,when there is a decided roll to a brim1 it is sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim1 so we resort to milliner's glue4 ,do not use glue on satin1 or on any fabric thinner than velvet1 or on any frame other than buckram4 ,care should always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the velvet is to be glued on4 ,after fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back1 remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the buckram4 ,the glue must be spread very evenly4 ,it will make a neater job to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further4 ,be very careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet4 ,next1 rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth1 then spread the velvet back into place1 pressing and smoothing it with the hands from the headsize wire out4 ,watch it carefully for any places which have not sufficient glue1 as the material may be raised before it is dry and more glue added4 ,do not sew the edge until the glue has dried4 ,usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim which needs gluing down4 ,the facing may be put on as desired4 ,sometimes the top of a crown has indentations1 and then the velvet may be glued to stay in place4 ,the under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting brim more easily than the upper4 ,beginning at the front with the corner of the material1 pin at the edge and at the headsize wire4 ,keep the material smooth2 work from right to left1 and then from left to right4 ,work the material around to where the seam is to be made4 ,cut away all superfluous material1 allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam4 ,slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire4 ,whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material4 ,a ,,shirred ,,crown ,,of ,,fabric-- ,there are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which taffeta1 satin1 georgette1 or velvet may be used4 ,velvet is especially beautiful made up in this way4 ,the first method is the preferred4 ,cut a circular piece of material1 having a diameter the length of the crown from front to back1 measuring over the top from the headsize wire1 plus four inches4 ,on the wrong side of the material mark circles 7concentric7 one-half inch apart1 after first having marked a circle in the center about three inches in diameter4 ,gather on the line of each circle with a fine running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each circle is completed4 ,locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this point4 ,pull thread of the smallest circle up tight4 ,this will form a bag which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the crown top and sewed securely in place4 ,the material should be pinned down at four equal points at the edge of the crown1 the threads of the other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly4 ,adjust the fullness evenly and sew in place4 ,this is an excellent way to use up old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects4 ,the second method does not make as pleasing an effect1 but may be used when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be cut from it4 ,a bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to reach around the crown1 plus three or four inches1 should be joined on the lengthwise thread of the material4 ,the first shirring or gathering should be one-half inch from the edge1 the additional threads should be run in evenly every half inch4 ,the first thread near the edge should then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the hole in the top of the crown4 ,this method will require a somewhat larger opening than the first4 ,the material is then drawn down on the outside and pinned to the bottom of the crown2 the threads are then pulled tight and firm and are fastened off4 ,next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in place4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,frames ,,of ,,neteen ,,and ,,crinoline ,lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where the greatest amount of roll is to be1 then cut making the same allowances as if cut from buckram4 ,this material should be used double to secure the best results4 ,cut one thickness first and pin this on another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie parallel to the woof thread of the other4 ,cut the two pieces the same size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with fine thread1 making one inch stitches4 ,fine thread should be used for this as a coarse thread might show through the covering4 ,,to ,,join ,,the ,,seam ,,in ,,the ,,back-- ,insert one thickness between the other two ends1 and backstitch closely4 ,this method ought to make a fairly smooth seam4 ,cover the seam with a strip of crinoline to smooth it up4 ,,to ,,sew ,,edge ,,wire ,,on ,,neteen-- ,it is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen4 ,a good result is obtained1 however1 by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it4 ,great care must be taken in handling neteen to preserve the shape1 as it is very easily stretched and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire4 ,the same method is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame4 ,the velvet1 if velvet is used1 can be glued on1 but the material is so porous that it is not very satisfactory4 ,neteen and crinoline make excellent foundations for braid hats1 as these materials are light in weight1 soft1 and pliable4 ,they are also very satisfactory for children's hats4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,turban ,,frame ,,of ,,neteen ,,or ,,crinoline-- ,make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline1 the height desired1 plus one inch4 ,the length should be the headsize measurement plus one-half inch4 ,this allows for a tiny flare next to the face which is usually more becoming4 ,join the ends of bias strips on the warp thread4 ,,to ,,wire ,,turban ,,flare-- ,sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom1 being careful not to stretch or full the material4 ,cut another piece of brace wire one or two inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom1 stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired4 ,a roll may be made by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire1 which must be smaller than for a flare4 ,if the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly1 this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and the bottom1 drawing the tape as tight as is necessary4 ,next pin the tape and sew in place4 ,sew another wire high enough above the tape to make the crown the required height4 ,if the crown is to be flared a little at top1 sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired4 ,if the top of the crown is to be drawn in1 sew the wire on the outside1 making the crown slightly smaller at the top4 ,if sufficient material is allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle of wire to make the crown top1 but an extra piece cut for this purpose is more satisfactory4 ,a smooth crown may be made from an extra piece sewed over the top after the side is finished4 ,,covering ,,turbans-- ,turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the matron4 ,gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of place on a larger hat4 ,however1 any material may be used2 braids1 alone or in combination with fabric4 ,velvets1 georgette1 satin1 and taffeta are used4 ,a turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a charming hat3 the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be--it seems to give a softer look around the face4 ,a round crown of buckram makes a good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to the lower edge to give a little flare4 ,a frame of this kind may be draped with velvet1 satin1 georgette1 or any pliable material1 and when skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,wire ,,frames ,,equipment ,brace wire or frame wire ,tie wire ,sprung wire ,pliers ,,to ,,open ,,coil ,,of ,,wire-- ,hold the coil in the left hand2 unfasten and allow it to loosen gradually in the hand2 pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils separate4 ,,to ,,cut ,,wire-- ,place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the point where they cut and press straight down4 ,be sure to cut with the first attempt2 otherwise1 if the wire is haggled off1 the pliers are injured and the covering loosened at the ends of the wire which will make it impossible to tie them together4 ,,to ,,straighten ,,wire-- ,pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion4 ,a piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become tender4 ,do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten it1 as it will be impossible to remove them4 ,,to ,,tie ,,wire-- ,ends of brace wire parallel4 ,right angles tied diagonally4 ,brace wire tied without use of tie wire4 ,before beginning to make a frame of wire1 time will be saved and necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire1 until a strong joint can be made4 ,cut fifty pieces or more of tie wire three-quarters of an inch long4 ,cut two pieces of brace or frame wire two or three inches long4 ,lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch1 then lap one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close to the end of the brace wire as is possible4 ,hold in the left hand and with the end of the pliers grasp the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm4 ,place pliers back a little and twist several times until a little cable is formed4 ,cut this off1 leaving an eighth-inch end4 ,press this end down flat with the jaws of the pliers4 ,tie the other end in the same manner4 ,practice this until a satisfactory joint can be made with ease1 before attempting to make a frame of wire4 ,illustration3 ,,to ,,tie ,,two ,,wires ,,with ,,tie ,,wire ,illustration3 ,,to ,,tie ,,two ,,wires ,,diagonally ,,with ,,use ,,of ,,tie ,,wire ,illustration3 ,,method ,,of ,,making ,,paper ,,pattern ,,for ,,drooping ,,brim ,illustration3 ,,method ,,of ,,pinning ,,fabric ,,on ,,drooping ,,brim ,illustration3 ,,braid-,,covered ,,brim ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,filling ,,in ,,short ,,lengths ,,when ,,the ,,difference ,,in ,,width ,,of ,,the ,,two ,,sides ,,is ,,very ,,great ,illustration3 ,,pattern ,,pinned ,,in ,,pleats ,,for ,,shaped ,,brims ,,of ,,fabric4 ,,illustration ,,shows ,,pattern ,,pinned ,,on ,,buckram ,,ready ,,to ,,cut ,,to ,,fasten ,,two ,,pieces ,,of ,,brace ,,wire ,,diagonally-- ,,to ,,fasten ,,two ,,pieces ,,of ,,brace ,,wire ,,without ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,tie ,,wire-- ,hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened1 at right angles to it1 with about two and one-half or three inches extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made4 ,press the end straight backward1 close to and parallel with the other end of the wire4 ,the end should pass once and a half around4 ,use the jaws of the pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together1 and to tighten the twist4 ,cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down flat4 ,,to ,,make ,,wire ,,frame ,,for ,,hat ,,having ,,flat ,,brim ,,and ,,square ,,crown-- ,always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a paper pattern for every hat4 ,a hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width1 and this is one important reason why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper pattern4 ,,pattern ,,for ,,brim-- ,make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor1 being careful to fold the pattern in halves from front to back1 and to crease sharply4 ,fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease4 ,this is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim4 ,the eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim2 this is the correct number of spokes4 ,,headsize ,,wire ,,for ,,wire ,,frame-- ,a wire frame needs two headsize wires1 so cut two just alike1 remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in any hat1 as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements taken for this wire4 ,measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat1 lapping the ends one inch1 and tying them4 ,try on these wires and shape to fit the head4 ,they should usually be elongated two inches4 ,pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern1 placing the joining on the back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease2 next pin the sides securely1 being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the head4 ,allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out to headsize wire4 ,the pattern may now be tried on the head for any necessary alterations4 ,the brim pattern may be added to or cut away4 ,,working ,,measurements ,,needed-- ,make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire4 ,before removing the wire1 mark the eight different points where it crosses the creases in the paper pattern4 ,remove the wire from the pattern4 ,,sticks ,,for ,,brim-- ,straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter of the brim plus three inches for finishing4 ,place one of these sticks across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the pencil1 allowing the ends to extend an equal length4 ,fasten to the headsize wire with tie wire4 ,place the next stick from side to side1 joining on the pencil marks4 ,the two remaining sticks when placed on the remaining marks divide the circle into eighths4 ,this is called the skeleton of the brim2 the wires are named front1 back1 right side1 left side1 right side front1 right side back1 left side front1 left side back4 ,the position of these ends or spokes should correspond to the creases in the paper pattern1 and the length of each one should be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern4 ,,edge ,,wire-- ,cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the brim plus one inch for lap and tie4 ,lay this close to the edge of the pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it1 always keeping the tied ends on the back crease4 ,if these measurements are carefully made1 the brim will be exactly like the pattern4 ,,to ,,join ,,edge ,,wire-- ,begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark4 ,twist the end of the spoke once and a half around the edge wire1 using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist4 ,cut the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers4 ,next finish the center front spoke1 then the sides and those in between4 ,a great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame4 ,add as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired1 fastening to the spokes with tie wire4 ,keep all wire laps at the back on the center spoke4 ,,collar ,,of ,,brim-- ,cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center4 ,twist these wires once and a half around the headsize wire1 bringing the ends up at right angles to the headsize wire4 ,join the second headsize wire to the top of these wires1 using the same method as for joining the edge wire4 ,this collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit4 ,a separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very sheer material or sheer braid4 ,in such a case the collar would be made as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming4 ,,square ,,crown ,,for ,,wire ,,frame-- ,straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown to the base of the crown at the back1 allowing eight inches for finishing4 ,cut and join a small circle of brace wire--about three inches in diameter--for the crown top4 ,lay the four sticks across this circle dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim1 and join to the sticks with tie wire4 ,cut a piece of brace wire one inch smaller than the headsize wire4 ,lap the ends and tie this wire4 ,elongate slightly4 ,join to the sticks outside of the small circle4 ,keep all lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke4 ,bend spokes down over this circle1 then measure down from this circle for the height of crown and mark on spokes with pencil4 ,be very accurate4 ,,base ,,wire ,,for ,,crown-- ,measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the headsize wire4 ,lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire4 ,the base wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize wire on the brim4 ,place this circle1 after having shaped it like the headsize wire1 on the inside of the spokes at the point marked1 beginning at the center back1 and finish as any edge wire by twisting the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire4 ,press the wires down tight with the pliers4 ,cut the ends off close and press flat with the jaws of the pliers4 ,many more circles may be added and tied on with tie wire if desired2 also more spokes may be added4 ,this would be desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid1 or if used for blocking fabric for frames4 ,,transparent ,,hats-- ,if a wire frame is to be covered with thin material1 great care and thought should be given to the frame1 for it then forms part of the design of the hat4 ,a finer wire is sometimes used in this case1 or a beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered cable wire1 and using as few wires as possible4 ,it may seem advisable after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires4 ,,chapter ,v ,,round ,,crown ,,of ,,wire ,a round crown is one which rounds from tip to base4 ,first straighten1 measure1 and cut four sticks of brace wire1 as for square crown1 of the ordinary length1 allowing for finishing4 ,cut and join the ends of a short piece of brace wire five or six inches long4 ,this makes a small circle for the top of the crown4 ,begin by tying the sticks across this circle under it1 dividing it into halves1 quarters1 and eighths1 being careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks extend an equal length from the circle4 ,keep these wires flat across this circle4 ,the sticks may now be curved down4 ,it is sometimes found easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other circles4 ,illustration3 ,,fancy ,,crown-,,tip ,,of ,,braid ,illustration3 ,,rolling ,,wire ,,brim4 ,,eight ,,spokes ,,more ,,may ,,be ,,used ,,and ,,as ,,many ,,circles ,,as ,,wished1 ,,according ,,to ,,the ,,covering ,,used ,illustration3 ,,round ,,crown ,,of ,,wire ,,base ,,wire-- ,cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for the headsize wire4 ,lap the ends one inch4 ,make this the same shape as the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over the headsize wire on the brim for which the crown is made4 ,an ordinary height for a round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire1 but to be safe1 it is always better to measure the head4 ,sometimes1 on account of an abundance of hair or a high coiffure1 a greater height is needed4 ,if the base wire is elongated to fit the head1 the side measurement from the tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to the front and the back4 ,it will be most helpful to take an old crown which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the measures or else work over it4 ,the crown must be even at the bottom when finished1 and when placed upon the table must rest evenly4 ,the base wire may be tied with tie wire on the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles between it and the crown tip are added4 ,it will then be found easy to adjust it before finishing off the wires2 i4e41 the crown may be made higher or lower4 ,,circles ,,or ,,hoops-- ,add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at the top4 ,the first circle just above the base wire should be of the same size4 ,keep all wire laps at the back4 ,the other two circles will conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little further apart at the front and back than at the sides4 ,,to ,,finish ,,the ,,base ,,of ,,the ,,crown-- ,the spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim4 ,a ,,shaped ,,wire ,,frame ,,made ,,in ,,one ,,piece-- ,the simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or one that droops a little4 ,before beginning this hat it will be found easier to have a pattern for the brim1 but it will not be necessary to make a pattern for the crown1 which may be either round or square1 and for which directions have already been given4 ,,pattern ,,for ,,brim-- ,make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric shape1 following the same directions4 ,it may droop only a very little or fit quite close4 ,in either case the method is the same4 ,pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape4 ,mark on the wire at the point where the creases touch the wire4 ,it is important not to hurry at this point4 ,make many patterns and then choose the most becoming one4 ,after the pattern is perfected1 crease it sharply the same as in the sailor brim4 ,take all the measurements from this pattern and use them in marking the wires4 ,this brim pattern is not needed until the crown has been made4 ,in making a wire frame in one piece1 we begin at the top of the crown and work down4 ,,crown-- ,measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson1 plus the width of the brim1 plus six inches for finishing4 ,this is ample to finish both ends of wire1 but on account of the ends easily becoming frayed it is better to have a generous allowance4 ,begin at the crown tip and work down until ready for the headsize wire4 ,the last wire is or should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire4 ,place the lap of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting the spokes once and a half around4 ,join the front and remaining spokes in the same way1 being careful to join where the wire was marked at the creases on the pattern4 ,,brim-- ,we are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern4 ,mark the length of each spoke with a pencil2 the distance they are to be apart should be marked on the edge wire4 ,these measurements are taken from the pattern4 ,finish the edge the same as the sailor brim4 ,add as many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired4 ,we have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim4 ,always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied4 ,here are some of the reasons why the pattern is important3 first1 it may be tried on and this helps to decide if the style is becoming1 before working it out in wire2 second1 the position of the wires may be determined and marked on the paper pattern2 third1 the more work done from a paper pattern the easier it will be to copy2 fourth1 it trains the eye1 thus making free-hand work much easier4 ,a ,,rolling ,,brim-- ,whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim1 the same method is used4 ,first1 as always1 the paper pattern4 ,if the brim is to roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other1 extra wires will be needed to fill the space4 ,the place for these may be determined on the paper pattern4 ,they may go all the way around1 being brought more closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the illustration4 ,wire frame making requires much patience and practice4 ,it is an art just as all millinery is an art4 ,lines are all important4 ,because of this ,i urge much pattern making4 ,even though one may not have the fundamental principles of art1 something really good often develops and we find we have built better than we knew4 ,it stimulates originality1 but we must work without fear4 ,,to ,,color ,,wire ,,frames-- ,wires come in both black and white4 ,a white frame may be colored to match any sheer fabric used for its covering4 ,it will be found to be more simple to color the frame after it is made4 ,any of the cold or soap dyes may be used4 ,if these are not available1 a piece of velveteen soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color sufficiently to tint the wire4 ,crepe paper may also be used1 or water-color paints4 ,rouge may be used effectively if moistened4 ,there are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when desired1 and which will add to the beauty of the design4 ,if they cannot be purchased1 a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt1 applying it to the frame with a small brush4 ,,halo ,,hat ,,brims-- ,halo brims may be made from any fabric1 but to be effective the material should be sheer4 ,malines1 nets1 georgette crepe1 or chiffon are all used to good effect in making this style of hat4 ,good-looking halo brims have been made from old georgette waists1 using the back for the brim and the front and sleeves for the crown4 ,only two wires are used in making this brim1 the edge wire and the headsize wire4 ,the size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim4 ,this wire is uncovered2 the ends just meet and are joined by the use of a little clamp1 the ends being inserted and pressed down with the jaws of the pliers4 ,place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat surface4 ,if of maline1 several thicknesses may be used4 ,fasten this material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks4 ,lay a circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place4 ,begin by pinning the back1 front1 and then each side1 being careful not to pull the wire out of shape4 ,take the work up and pin the material closely all around the edge4 ,cut off1 allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the wire4 ,sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a running stitch just inside of the wire4 ,the edge may be bound with a fold of the same material1 a fold of satin or one row of braid4 ,,headsize ,,wire ,,for ,,halo ,,brim-- ,this headsize wire is made of frame wire4 ,first measure1 then cut1 join ends1 and shape as for any hat4 ,lay the headsize wire on the material1 having the joining at the back4 ,the front and the back of the brim1 if of equal width1 will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the elongated headsize wire2 however1 the headsize wire may be placed on the brim in any position desired4 ,pin in place and sew with an overcasting stitch4 ,trim the material inside the headsize wire1 leaving an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over2 it will be found necessary to sew this down over the wire1 making the edge more secure4 ,another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece of material on the bias1 twice as wide as the brim and as long as the circumference4 ,stretch this piece of material1 then pin the center of the strip over the edge wire1 gather the raw edges to fit the headsize wire and sew in place4 ,this method does not make a smooth brim1 but is more quickly made4 ,when two thicknesses of sheer material are used for halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers1 petals of flowers1 or feathers between the two materials4 ,,crown ,,for ,,halo ,,brim-- ,this may be very sheer1 although a halo brim may be used on a braid or satin crown if desired4 ,a wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of a mere collar of frame wire several inches high4 ,this is sewed to the headsize wire4 ,the covering for the crown is usually made in the shape of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter1 with the same number of thicknesses as the brim4 ,gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge1 adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire4 ,the height of the crown depends upon the style of hair dressing4 ,place a band of the same material as the crown1 or a narrow ribbon1 around the base of the crown for trimming and to conceal the wires4 ,a wired bow of the sheer material may be used very effectively4 7,see chapter on ,bows47 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,hat ,,coverings ,,to ,,cover ,,with ,,braid-- ,great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw braid4 ,the lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied1 as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames4 7,see illustration47 ,the stitch used for sewing braid is always the same--a very short stitch on the right side1 and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong side4 ,the thread must not be pulled too tight1 or the position of the stitches may be seen2 also always match the thread to the straw4 ,straw braid may be sewed to a willow1 buckram1 neteen1 or crinoline frame except when a very soft hat is desired2 it may then be sewed and shaped over a wire or buckram frame1 but not on to it1 as it is to be removed from the frame after sewing2 or1 if the braid is coarse1 it may be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with crinoline or mull4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,one ,,method ,,of ,,starting ,,the ,,braid ,,on ,,crown ,,and ,,sewing ,,in ,,place ,many hats have a brim faced with straw1 while a fabric is used on top4 ,in this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches may be taken through the brim1 which the fabric on top will cover4 ,,to ,,pin ,,in ,,place ,,on ,,the ,,frame-- ,place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim1 beginning at the center back1 allowing three inches to extend to the right4 ,pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back is reached4 ,curve the second row gradually up from the center back2 do not make an abrupt curve1 until the correct lap is reached1 usually one-eighth of an inch4 ,there will be found a thread at the edge of most braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed on a curve4 ,the outside edge of the first row must be left free for the edge of the fabric1 which covers the other side1 to be slipped under4 ,do not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place4 ,,to ,,sew-- ,bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch1 stabbing the needle through the braid and the buckram2 the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the thread is not pulled too tight4 ,take a stitch on the wrong side from one-quarter to one-half an inch in length1 depending upon the width and quality of the braid4 ,continue basting and sewing the braid until the headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one inch4 ,if the brim is wider at some points than at others1 the wider side must be filled in with short strips following the same curve1 being careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the headsize wire one inch4 ,when the brim is very much wider at some points1 short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is sewed2 this would not make such an abrupt curve1 and the general lines of the braid would be more pleasing4 ,when one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric1 fit this to the brim1 baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge1 allowing one-quarter of an inch to lap over the edge4 ,remove the basting from the first row of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under4 ,pin and slipstitch to place through the straw4 ,,both ,,sides ,,of ,,brim ,,covered ,,with ,,braid-- ,allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim both on the top and the bottom4 ,these edges may be brought together with a small slanting stitch1 or if preferred the edge may be first bound with a bias piece of satin1 or with a row of braid or gay-colored material4 ,if the edge of the brim is bound1 the edges of the first rows of braid at the top and bottom would not meet4 ,the bound edge thus showing gives the effect of a cord4 ,,to ,,cover ,a ,,crown ,,with ,,braid-- ,begin at the bottom of the crown1 slanting the second row off from the first row the same as on the brim4 ,pull the braid up with the thread 7which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid7 and sew until the center of the crown tip is reached1 when a hole in the top of the crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the underside4 ,keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the way4 ,sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very center of the top of the crown1 or a few rows may be sewed to a small circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown4 ,if a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids sewed together1 the method is the same until the crown tip is reached or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat4 ,the braid must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a time1 and each end lapped under the preceding strand2 proceed with the remaining strands1 cutting one off at a time until only one remains to finish the center with4 ,when the crown tip is completed1 push the remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to the inside of the crown4 ,when using this kind of braid the operation may be reversed1 beginning at the center of the top and covering a small circle of buckram with braid2 press it with a warm iron to flatten it1 then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering4 ,this seems the easier method1 because the top of the crown will look much better if pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small separate piece of buckram4 ,,to ,,piece ,,braid-- ,sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat1 when careful handling will be found necessary4 ,if the braid is composed of several smaller braids sewed together1 the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strands cut in unequal lengths2 also the strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one inch4 ,the ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without the joining being noticeable4 ,if the braid is very wide it may seem best when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid4 ,it would then be better to make a straight joining in the back4 ,if a fancy braid is to be pieced1 the ends are lapped diagonally and sewed flat4 ,if a fancy joining is part of the design1 a simple one is to lap the ends to look as though woven4 ,this may be employed on a crown or brim or both1 and it then becomes a part of the design4 ,also the top of the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid1 but any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid4 ,the top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from front to back1 allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an inch or more4 ,the braid of the side crown should cover these ends4 ,the brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid radiating from the headsize wire1 the ends extending up on the crown one inch4 ,a fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design1 or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid4 ,,crown ,,top ,,of ,,braid1 ,,side ,,crown ,,of ,,fabric-- ,,side ,,crown ,,of ,,braid ,,and ,,top ,,of ,,fabric-- ,,band ,,of ,,material1 ,,plain ,,or ,,corded1 ,,set ,,in ,,side ,,crown-- ,,brim ,,and ,,crown ,,made ,,from ,,small ,,pieces ,,of ,,silk ,,and ,,braid-- ,a very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire foundation which has been made for the purpose4 ,the braid may be pinned on the brim of wire and sewed1 being careful not to attach the braid to the frame2 slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid while it is still pinned to the brim1 then remove1 press slightly1 and sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired4 ,some kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing1 but it is safer to experiment first with a small piece1 for some braid is ruined by pressing4 ,a soft crown of braid should be fitted over a wire crown and sewed in the same way4 ,after removing it from the wire frame1 it can be slightly pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a warm iron to the outside4 ,a soft hat of braid can more easily be made by first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it4 ,horsehair braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation4 ,they may be pressed slightly 7after being removed from the wire crown over which they have been shaped7 when they will be found to keep their shape4 ,the brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed4 ,a small lace wire should be used for this foundation1 four spokes together with the headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient4 ,the wire should be wound with maline or have a facing of maline4 ,horsehair braid is transparent4 ,there are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat1 but these can be readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered4 ,be very careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some braids1 while others must be moistened before they can be handled in sewing to a hat frame4 ,,covering ,,wire ,,frames ,,with ,,maline1 ,,net ,,or ,,georgette-- ,wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material1 such as maline1 net1 or georgette1 must be carefully made1 as the wire frame becomes a part of the design1 and the wire should be silk covered4 ,if maline is used1 it should be pleated or gathered on1 unless the brim is of the halo style1 for which directions are given elsewhere4 ,four or five thicknesses of maline are necessary4 ,the material is often gathered in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to the circle wire on the brim or the crown4 ,a small tuck at the edge wire would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain4 ,the fullness is then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire4 ,if the edge is left plain1 a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge4 ,a wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very becoming to certain types of faces4 ,the wires of a frame are often first wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline4 ,the edges are turned in and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly4 ,sometimes the wires are wound with a contrasting color4 ,an effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias strips of satin or silk1 velvet or georgette1 or any soft fabric4 ,if a wire frame is used1 it must first be covered with a thin plain material to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may be sewed1 or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft hat is desired4 ,,ribbon ,,covering-- ,if a ribbon is used1 it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid4 ,an inch-wide ribbon is easily handled4 ,,bias ,,fabric-- ,if bias strips of silk or satin are used1 the material should be cut in strips two and one-half inches wide1 on a true bias1 and joined in one long strip4 ,fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge4 ,this is sewed to the frame the same as braid1 the folded edge overlapping the raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as it is pinned and sewed in place4 ,this is an excellent way to use up old material4 ,,hat ,,linings ,a hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and workmanship as the outside of the hat4 ,from the milliner's point of view it is an advertisement1 the place where we find the designer's name4 ,a well-fitted lining1 whether of somber or gay colored silk1 enhances the value of a hat4 ,sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the lining1 or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil4 ,there are three popular kinds of linings-- ,plain lining ,french lining ,tailored lining ,,plain ,,lining-- ,this should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the headsize wire1 plus one inch for seam4 ,the width should be the same as the crown height plus two and one-half inches4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,covering ,,crown ,,with ,,two-,,inch ,,wide ,,bias ,,satin4 ,,cord ,,sewed ,,in ,,one ,,edge2 ,,the ,,other ,,edge ,,is ,,gathered ,,and ,,pulled ,,up ,,to ,,fit ,,crown ,fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the hat2 fold the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the hat is on the head4 ,pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the two ends together2 then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in place4 ,the method is to bring the needle from the underside of the lining through the edge of the fold1 catch a few threads of material on the hat opposite this thread1 and put the needle back through the fold at the same point2 bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached4 ,turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow ribbon should be run1 and drawn down as much as necessary to make the lining fit the crown4 ,a crown tip is used with this lining1 which is made of a piece of silk four inches square1 sewed or glued to the inside of the crown top4 ,on this piece the designer's name is usually found4 ,,french ,,lining-- ,this lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the crown measurements4 ,measure the crown from front to back and from side to side1 adding one inch to these measurements4 ,fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the headsize and tie4 ,lap the edge of the silk over the wire one-quarter of an inch4 ,gather the silk close to the wire using a small running stitch4 ,after completed1 pin in place and slipstitch to the crown4 ,this lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat1 so it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too small for the head4 ,,tailored ,,lining-- ,this lining is rather the most popular lining used4 ,large firms send their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be bought ready-made1 but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be easily made into one of these linings4 ,cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown1 baste a piece of silk lining over this4 ,pin this on top of the crown1 as this can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is made4 ,now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points4 ,after pinning it to the crown tip1 turn up one-quarter of an inch at the bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown4 ,stretch snugly because the inside of the crown is smaller2 pin the fullness to the crown top all around1 gather between pins1 and baste in place4 ,stitch on the machine4 ,this seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam4 ,linings may be made of taffeta1 china silk1 satin1 sateen or of almost any material which is not too heavy4 ,when a wire frame is covered with thin material and the frame shows through1 the hat should have a thin lining4 ,if the hat is covered with maline1 use a maline lining2 if with georgette1 a georgette lining should be used4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,trimmings ,,milliner',s ,,fold-- ,cut from a piece of velvet1 satin1 or any fabric which is to be used1 a bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length4 ,this must be on a true bias1 which is found by placing the warp and woof threads parallel4 ,any other bias is called a garment bias4 ,hold the wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge4 ,the basting thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched4 ,leave the basting in4 ,next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges meet1 but do not baste4 ,fold again1 keeping this last fold one-quarter of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge4 ,hold in place and slipstitch down4 ,slip the needle through the edge of the fold and take a long stitch1 then1 going down through to the other side1 take a short stitch4 ,come back through a little under the fold to hide the stitch4 ,slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before1 and continue in this manner4 ,the thread should be kept loose all the way to permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used4 ,the fold when finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it4 ,another separate single fold may be added to this2 it is then called a ,french fold4 ,the milliner's fold has many uses1 such as finishing the edge of hats1 and the bottom of crowns1 to cover the joining of the hat to the brim4 ,it is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and is much used in mourning millinery1 when it is made of crepe4 ,,bows ,for the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy many different styles of bows1 using either tissue paper or cheap cambric1 as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times4 ,bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur1 while for some students of millinery it is very easy1 but any one with patience may become quite expert in time4 ,cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is to be used4 ,in this way the exact amount of ribbon may be determined1 as well as the length of each loop4 ,if a stiff1 smart-looking bow is to be made1 fold the ribbon in loops before pleating4 ,if a soft-looking or puffy1 fat-looking bow is desired1 pleat the ribbon singly before making the loops4 ,the soft bow is often used for children's hats4 ,after the desired number of loops is made1 wind a strong thread around the center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well4 ,,bows ,,of ,,maline-- ,maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it lends itself to many uses4 ,hat frames are covered with maline2 it is used to cover wings to keep feathers in place2 to cover faded or worn-out flowers2 for shirred brims and crowns2 for pleatings2 for folds on edges of brims to give a soft look2 and for bows4 ,a bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire4 ,the wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops1 or the loops may be made double with the wire caught inside4 ,,wired ,,ribbon ,,bows-- ,ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired4 ,silk1 satin1 velvet1 or any kind of ribbon can be used4 ,the flat ribbon wire is sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue4 ,often two colors are rather effectively used in this way4 ,the wire may also be stitched to one edge of the ribbon4 ,this is done by turning the ribbon over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine4 ,the ends of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the bow4 ,after the bow is arranged1 these ends should be bent out and back1 making loops which are sewed down to the hat4 ,this holds the bow very firmly1 especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat at the point at which the bow is to be sewed4 ,this re-enforces the frame and makes it still more firm4 ,if a bow is to be placed on top of a crown1 a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this opening1 over the bow1 and down through this opening and fastened inside of the crown4 ,a narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two perky loops and ends made4 ,these are very pretty perched on the edge of a brim or among flowers on the hat4 ,,true ,,lovers' ,,knot-- ,this is not1 strictly speaking1 a bow1 but comes under this head4 ,the ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made4 ,it may be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold ribbon4 ,,tailored ,,bow-- ,this bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides alike1 although it may be made from any ribbon4 ,a ,knox tailored bow is made from gros-grained ribbon4 ,cut a small piece of buckram for a foundation to sew the ribbon on4 ,this should be sufficiently small so that the ribbon will conceal it4 ,make two loops of equal length1 letting the ribbon lie perfectly flat4 ,measurements should be very exact4 ,sew these loops firmly to the buckram2 fold the ribbon back and forth to make these loops without cutting4 ,next fold two more loops1 one on each side1 one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top4 ,sew firmly and cut the ribbon off at the center4 ,fasten two short ends to the back of the bow1 allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut diagonally4 ,take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the center4 ,wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back4 ,this bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat4 ,there are many kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season1 but if the making of a few styles of standard bows is mastered1 others may be easily copied4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,of ,,maline ,,pompon ,,showing ,,method ,,of ,,fastening ,,on ,,the ,,wire ,illustration3 ,,radiating ,,pleating ,,made ,,on ,,low ,,pyramid ,,of ,,buckram ,illustration3 ,,true ,,lovers' ,,knot ,illustration3 ,,radiating ,,pleating ,,made ,,on ,,buckram ,,foundation ,illustration3 ,,second ,,method ,,of ,,making ,,an ,,orchid ,,center 7see page #ia7 ,,pleatings ,a pleating is difficult and requires patience4 ,unless accurately made1 it should never be used on a hat1 for upon its accuracy depends its attractiveness4 ,the simplest pleating is a side pleating4 ,this may be made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work4 ,there should not be a thread's difference in the width of each pleat4 ,any simple pleating requires three times the length of the space it is to cover4 ,if a half-inch pleating is to be made1 the folds will come every one and one-half inches4 ,as each fold is laid1 baste it down with silk thread4 ,press slightly on the wrong side before using4 ,,box ,,pleating-- ,this is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the right4 ,the same amount of material is required as for side pleating4 ,if the pleats are to be one-half inch deep1 the box pleat will be one inch across4 ,baste with silk thread at the top and bottom1 and press on the wrong side4 ,a simple box pleating may be basted through the center and the edges caught together4 ,,double ,,or ,,triple ,,box-,,pleating-- ,this is made by adding one or more pleats1 one on top of the other4 ,begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left1 then the same number turning to the right4 ,be very accurate1 being careful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired4 ,baste at the top and bottom4 ,this pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center1 after having slightly pressed4 ,the top and bottom bastings are then removed4 ,the pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat1 and it is then known as rose pleating4 ,,radiating-- ,this is the most difficult pleating to fashion1 but very handsome ornaments are made in this way4 ,a foundation of buckram is usually required to sew the pleats on as they are laid4 ,the two illustrations given will suffice4 ,after these two examples are correctly copied1 other models and original designs can be easily made4 ,,foundations ,,of ,,buckram-- ,the foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from buckram4 ,cut a small circle of buckram1 slash in three equally distant places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the center4 ,lap a small amount and sew4 ,three rows or more of pleating may be used on this ornament4 ,an ordinary ornament will require about five yards of inch-wide ribbon4 ,the first row would be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid4 ,the pleating should radiate from the center4 ,to do this1 the inside of the pleating will lap more than the outside4 ,the next row will overlap this first row and the same method will be used4 ,the pleating may be tested by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the pleating4 ,the pleats should all be on a straight line between these points4 ,the last or finishing row is the most difficult of all4 ,the pleats at the apex should meet1 and pleats at the lower overlapping edge be on a line with the rest of the pleating4 ,a tiny bow or button is sometimes used to finish the top1 but it is much handsomer if finished without either bow or button4 ,,pompons ,maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat4 ,they may be made perfectly round or elongated like the illustration4 ,several thicknesses of the material may be cut at one time4 ,the shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be cut like pattern a4 ,each piece is folded lengthwise of the material1 and this fold is fastened to a wire which has been previously wound with maline4 ,the edges of these pieces are left raw1 and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact4 ,,ribbon ,,rosettes ,there are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon4 ,sometimes several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with thread as they are gathered4 ,a very pretty rosette is made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide4 ,many loops three inches long or more of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram4 ,a knot placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness4 ,,rosettes ,,from ,,old ,,plumes-- ,an old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade1 retaining a small portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers together4 ,this should be sewed onto a fine wire1 and it may then be wound into a rosette4 ,a small flower placed in the center is a pleasing addition4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,hand-,,made ,,flowers ,,flowers ,,material ,,required3 ,tie wire1 green ,gum tissue1 brown and green ,cotton batting ,milliner's glue ,yellow stamens ,dark green tissue paper ,flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin1 velvet1 georgette1 maline1 ribbon1 soft leather1 oilcloth1 yarn1 and chenille4 ,a scrapbag for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials4 ,any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits4 ,such a bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers and fruit trimmings4 ,each year brings out novelties in trimmings1 but hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats1 gowns1 suits1 and muffs4 ,they are especially beautiful on evening gowns4 ,a generous number of the best examples are given here with illustrations4 ,to prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult1 but to arrange them is another matter4 ,study the face of any blossom which you are making and try to make it look as natural as possible4 ,pinning the petals in place before sewing them is of great value1 otherwise they are apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed4 ,illustration3 ,a4 ,,american ,,beauty ,,rose ,,with ,,detail4 ,b4 ,,ribbon ,,rose4 ,c4 ,,cherries ,,with ,,detail4 ,d4 ,,orchids ,,with ,,lilies ,,of ,,the ,,valley4 ,e4 ,,raisins4 ,f4 ,,wired ,,rose ,,with ,,detail4 ,g4 ,,poinsettia4 ,,american ,,beauty ,,rose-- ,this rose may be made of silk or satin2 it may have as many petals as desired4 ,each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the diagram 7#a74 ,it is highly important that the folded edge be on a true bias4 ,begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration1 with the bias edge one and one-half inches long4 ,run a gathering thread one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge1 leaving a thread one inch long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place4 ,make a loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long4 ,cover this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose4 ,it is sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to make a soft center for the rose4 ,for an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals4 ,the first three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias4 ,the next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly wider2 the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias1 and the next five a three-inch bias4 ,the three small petals should be arranged around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing4 ,sew securely4 ,each row1 as it is arranged according to size1 should be pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed effectively4 ,each row should be placed a little higher than the preceding one4 ,see that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a real rose as possible1 allowing the back to look as it will4 ,with a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to adjust the different materials4 ,some materials being more pliable than others1 the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the need4 ,the back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the purpose4 ,a small green cup is also added to finish the base2 these may be bought at ribbon counters4 ,the bud used with this rose may be made by using the three smallest petals4 ,some green foliage must also be used with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon1 or with gum tissue which should be warmed before using4 ,the inside petals may be of a darker shade than the outside petals4 ,,ribbon ,,rose-- ,to make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon two inches wide4 ,there are several different methods of making the center for this rose4 ,a simple center for this rose may be made from a piece of the ribbon1 four inches long4 ,fold this in half4 ,sew the selvages together along one side4 ,turn and fill with cotton around which has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire4 ,a little rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add perfume to the blossom4 ,gather the satin down close to the wire after rounding the corners at the lower edges4 ,two yards should make this center and eighteen petals4 ,more may be added or fewer may be used4 ,for the first row cut three lengths three inches long2 the second row1 five lengths three and one-half inches long2 third row1 five lengths four inches long2 fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long4 ,each petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place ,fold the two ends together1 turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and pin in place4 ,now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the corners down with a few small stitches4 ,replace the end and gather the raw edges together1 but do not draw up close4 ,prepare all of the petals in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center4 ,sometimes a tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look larger4 ,when all the petals are finished1 begin the rose by adding the three smallest petals first4 ,pin in place around the center1 wrapping them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an inch above the point4 ,add the next row1 pinning each petal in place before sewing4 ,place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the preceding one4 ,watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it looks as natural as possible4 ,the back of the blossom will be covered when finished1 either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup1 or points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves4 ,a rubber stem may be bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed1 or the wire may be wound with green floss1 baby ribbon1 green tissue paper1 or gum tissue4 ,if the rose is to be full blown1 it would be much better to make the center of yellow stamens4 ,,wild ,,rose ,,of ,,silk-- ,the petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the first rose given4 ,this same pattern is used for many different flowers--the wild rose1 apple blossom1 sweet pea1 and for foliage4 ,for the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias4 ,gather one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge1 draw down tight and fasten the thread off4 ,this rose requires five petals1 and will look more natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three4 ,for the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose stamens which may be bought at a millinery store1 leaving the ends of wire five or six inches long4 ,arrange the petals flat around this center and sew in place4 ,the petals should lie out flat1 or nearly so4 ,a bud for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered it4 ,the bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage1 placing one on either side1 partially covering the bud and then finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup4 ,to finish with wire1 make a loop in the center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire4 ,to this loop sew the bud4 ,twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud1 then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until the bud is reached4 ,wind it several times over the base of the bud1 draw it tight and see that the wire is close together4 ,this will make a finish for the bud4 ,,foliage-- ,the rose foliage may be made if desired4 ,cut the leaves from green satin or velvet1 or color them green with water-color if a light-colored material must be used4 ,after cutting the pieces in the shape of rose leaves 7it will require two pieces for each leaf71 lay one wrong side up1 cover with milliner's glue4 ,lay on the center of this a piece of tie wire long enough for the stem4 ,place another leaf on this and press together4 ,when all the leaves are made after this method1 arrange on a long stem or wire1 and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very natural4 ,,small ,,wound ,,rose ,,of ,,fabric-- ,cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches long4 ,fold lengthwise through the middle4 ,turn the raw edges in on one end1 and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges4 ,draw the thread up to one inch and roll1 beginning with the folded end1 and sew4 ,a piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering1 if desired4 ,these little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk4 ,it may be in the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in several colors1 pink1 blue1 and mauve4 ,sewed flat against a crown or on a brim1 they would trim a hat effectively4 ,,wired ,,rose-- ,this rose1 when carefully made1 is most beautiful and sells for an exorbitant price4 ,to make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet cut on the bias4 ,if the velvet is one or more shades darker1 the result will be more pleasing4 ,the rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration4 ,the first three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration1 two inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide4 ,the next five petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger1 and each succeeding row of five petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one4 ,the last row of petals is to be made from the velvet4 ,cut a piece of the tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal1 plus one and one-half inches4 ,lay the petals down wrong side up1 bend the wire to the shape of the petal1 lay the wire close to the edge and turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place with milliner's glue4 ,place a light weight on the petals until thoroughly dry4 ,begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the scraps left from the velvet1 or yellow rose stamens may be used2 fold several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length1 sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long4 ,keep the point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as possible4 ,begin with the three small petals1 pleat them at the bottom into as small a space as possible1 and sew to the center with the wrong side to the center4 ,after they have been arranged1 the edges may be crinkled down somewhat4 ,add the remaining petals according to their size4 ,the last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is placed with the right side toward the center4 ,,flat ,,pasted ,,blossom-- ,a conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from the pattern for the wired rose first given4 ,cut five petals 7of any size required7 from velvet1 and five the same size from silk or satin4 ,lay the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue4 ,lay on this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge1 allowing an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal4 ,lay the silk petal on top and press firmly4 ,when dry arrange these five petals around a cluster of yellow stamens1 which have been fastened to a loop of tie wire4 ,this blossom should lie out flat when finished4 ,of course the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired4 ,,poinsettias-- ,the petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining1 the poinsettia making a beautiful ornament4 ,while a bright red is extremely lovely1 a black poinsettia is equally effective4 ,the petals should be made of velvet and lined with the same color in satin4 ,these petals being narrow1 only need a wire through the center4 ,after the petals have been prepared1 they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or knotted baby ribbon4 ,the foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk4 ,the accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the blossom and the foliage4 ,the stems may be wound with green or brown gum tissue4 ,,poppies-- ,poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide4 ,cut two pieces five and one-half inches long4 ,this leaves one piece six inches long4 ,this will make five petals4 ,cut the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces1 and cut one end of the six-inch piece round4 ,beginning at the center1 close to edge1 gather with a small running stitch4 ,turn in the raw edges and draw the thread sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch1 and fasten off the thread4 ,these two long pieces make four petals4 ,pleat them very close at the center1 sew together1 finish the single petal the same and add it to the four petals4 ,knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens or both will make a beautiful center4 ,,morning ,,glories-- ,cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter4 ,one quarter section of this will be the pattern for a morning glory4 ,the circle may be larger if desired1 but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used4 ,these dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or organdie4 ,if made of velvet or heavy silk1 the pattern should be much larger4 ,lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place4 ,this makes a cone4 ,cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length1 lap one end over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely4 ,push the other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots down into the point4 ,make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire4 ,the upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted if necessary2 usually it stays in place without either sewing or pasting4 ,the edge should be stretched slightly4 ,organdie or taffeta silk will stay rolled into place without the tie wire4 ,water color is used most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature as possible4 ,if made of velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at the side joining1 when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may be made to cover the joining in the cone4 ,,orchid-- ,this blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron1 or wherever a touch of lavender is desired4 ,it is effectively combined with violets1 or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern4 ,the petals are made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar pinkish lavender orchid shade4 ,there are five petals in all--each calls for seven inches of ribbon4 ,if possible1 three of the petals should be one or two shades darker than the other two4 ,fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon 7one and one-quarter inches wide7 in half with the right side out4 ,cut into shape like the illustration4 ,stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge4 ,twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and fasten up at folded end of the ribbon4 ,overhand this wire along the raw edges1 turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch seam on the wrong side4 ,this makes a ,french seam4 ,now spread the petal open flat1 and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six inches in length4 ,gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire4 ,finish the other four petals the same way4 ,,no4 #a ,,pattern ,,for ,,the ,,center-- ,this calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and four inches in length4 ,if possible this ribbon should be darker than the darkest petal1 but of course should harmonize4 ,roll the ends and hem them down4 ,gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been fastened4 ,the blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front drooping4 ,,no4 #b ,,pattern ,,for ,,the ,,center-- ,this center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide4 ,fold lengthwise1 with the satin side out4 ,at one end sew straight across1 making a seam one-eighth of an inch deep and turn4 ,cut the other end like the diagram and sew this with the velvet side out1 leaving a tiny space at the bottom to insert the wire4 ,this now looks something like a ,jack in the ,pulpit4 ,twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired4 ,make a small1 short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its slipping back down on the wire4 ,each year there are new developments in flower making1 but the principles are the same4 ,if a few are mastered1 there is usually very little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from year to year4 ,lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids which are left over or from wool and raffia1 maline or colored nets4 ,,blossoms ,,of ,,maline ,,or ,,net-- ,these may be made by using the same pattern as for the ,american ,beauty rose1 selecting the size required4 7,see illustration47 ,lay a strip of tie wire inside along the bias fold4 ,gather along the curved edge and draw down tight4 ,this brings the two ends of the tie wire together1 and they should be twisted lightly4 ,arrange four or five leaves around a few yellow stamens4 ,if green tie wire is used1 it is not necessary to wind the stems2 otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem4 ,from this pattern many different blossoms may be made1 varying it slightly1 such as rosebuds1 sweet peas1 and apple blossoms4 ,,sweet ,,peas-- ,cut four petals after the same pattern1 making one about one and one-half inches and two one inch1 then a small one for the center1 or a few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center4 ,arrange the petals in a natural-looking blossom4 ,,violets-- ,no flower is more popular than the violet1 and a cluster of handsome violets make a most acceptable gift at any time4 ,violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is used4 ,begin by tying a knot one inch from the end1 tie another one inch from this knot2 continue until there are five or six knots one inch apart4 ,in tying1 try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the knot4 ,do not tie too tightly4 ,a little practice is needed1 but the blossom is easily made4 ,hold the first knot between the thumb and finger1 bring the third knot up and place with it1 then the fifth1 and so on1 until the knots are all placed--usually three on one side1 and two or three on the other4 ,cut green tie wire six or seven inches long for stems4 ,wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded knots and twist4 ,cut the ribbon off pointed1 leaving one-half inch end4 ,two shades of ribbon may be used if desired4 ,sometimes a few yellow stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few ,french knots in yellow added at the center after the blossom is made1 but neither is needed and add but little to the beauty of this little blossom4 ,shape the petals up around the center4 ,the foliage for this flower can be bought1 or made according to directions given elsewhere4 ,a spray of almost any foliage will do4 ,a small rosebud1 a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of violets will make it doubly charming4 ,,daisies-- ,daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon1 using as many petals as desired4 ,cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths4 ,tie a knot in the center4 ,sew the ends to a small1 round piece of buckram4 ,if two rows of petals are used1 the second row may be made one-quarter of an inch shorter4 ,the center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers or a few ,french knots4 ,the stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the back and may be wound with green floss4 ,,geraniums-- ,these flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon4 ,use the same method as in making violets1 except that yellow stamens should always be added4 ,,fruit ,,apples-- ,the material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size desired and from any material4 ,the edge should be turned in one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around4 ,place this over a piece of cotton batting1 over which a piece of wire has been twisted1 leaving ends long enough for a stem4 ,add a sufficient amount of cotton to fill the material out well4 ,draw the thread tight and sew4 ,a stitch may be caught through the center and pulled down1 or a little tuft of brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic look4 ,the apple may be tinted with water-color if desired4 ,in that case the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied and allowed to dry4 ,,cherries-- ,these are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin or velvet would make a charming cluster4 ,the method used is the same as for the apple1 except that there would be no stitch in the center4 ,they should also be filled until they are hard4 ,use tie wire for the stems4 ,,plums-- ,these may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias1 two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide4 ,sew the ends together on the wrong side4 ,turn1 gather one end one-eighth of an inch from the edge4 ,pull the thread up tight and sew4 ,this makes the blow end4 ,turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather4 ,fill with cotton to which a piece of tie wire has been attached and pull close to wire and sew4 ,add as much cotton as necessary to procure the right shape before finishing4 ,,raisins-- ,these may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored material one-eighth of an inch from the edge1 but used without filling with cotton4 ,sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with brown gum tissue4 ,arrange in a cluster4 ,always warm the tissue before using so that it will adhere4 ,,grapes-- ,these are made the same as cherries1 except a cluster would have several sizes4 ,they are beautiful made from black velvet4 ,a cluster of grapes to sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster4 ,,mourning ,,millinery ,hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face4 ,the covering of crepe is always lined1 preferably with sheet wadding to give the soft appearance desired4 ,the trimming is of milliner's folds or flat flowers made of the crepe4#ih-a ,the mourning veils used may have a simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem4 ,the applied hem is much the handsomer finish4 ,,applied ,,hem ,,on ,a ,,veil-- ,for a hem three inches wide1 cut a strip six inches in width and long enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each corner4 ,it takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a rectangular veil4 ,fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat4 ,measure this strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be mitred at the corners4 ,cut a ,v-shaped piece from this fold to within one-quarter of an inch of the fold4 ,cut through both thicknesses4 ,sew these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the result will be a mitred corner4 ,each corner should be carefully planned and mitred before sewing to the veil4 ,next turn both raw edges down toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately4 ,slip the edge of the veil between1 pin carefully in place1 baste and slipstitch the edges to the veil4 ,both edges may be stitched at the same time4 ,if this work is carefully done1 the result more than repays the time spent upon it4 ,the veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any becoming way4 ,it may form part of the covering of the hat1 and is then arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any desired length4 ,it makes a becoming background for the face4 ,mourning millinery is not used as much as formerly1 but those who desire to adhere to the custom will find the style little changed4 ,,footnotes3 ,footnote #ih-a3 ,see chapter on ,flowers4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,remodeling ,,and ,,renovating ,,straw ,,shapes-- ,,brim--,brush well to remove all the dust4 ,if the brim is too wide1 a few rows of braid may be removed from the edge1 and the edge refinished with one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color4 ,if it seems necessary to use an edge wire1 this last row of braid may be made to cover it1 or a bias fold of satin1 silk1 velvet1 or ribbon may be sewed over the wire4 ,,crown--,when the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the present style1 the crown may be ripped from the brim1 a narrow piece of buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the brim4 ,of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram4 ,if the crown is too high1 a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom of the crown1 enough to give the desired height4 ,,to ,,put ,a ,,straw ,,hat ,,into ,,shape-- ,if the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good1 or if it only needs slight reshaping1 it can be done at home with satisfactory results4 ,it is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard4 ,a rounded crown can be made flat on top1 and a slightly rolling brim can be made into a straight brim by using this method4 ,it is a joy to take an old1 discarded1 battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking and up-to-date hat1 a piece of work which any one may well be proud of4 ,cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which the crown top is to be made4 ,cut another the exact height of the crown and long enough to fit around the head1 allowing the ends to just meet4 ,sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact shape you wish4 ,dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown4 ,turn the crown upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown4 ,a flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight4 ,bind the outside firmly and smoothly with a cloth1 pin in place1 and leave to dry4 ,after it is thoroughly dry1 remove the cloth1 and before removing it from the block1 cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be bought for the purpose4 ,this can be procured in several colors1 but must be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an even shade4 ,if the brim is rolling and is to be made flat1 dampen it thoroughly1 press it down flat on a smooth surface1 and cover with weights2 leave until dry1 when a few coats of coloring may be applied4 ,if the brim is separate from the crown1 the hat may be completely changed by slipping the brim down over the crown1 leaving it an inch or so from the bottom on one side or in the back1 making a bandeau which lends itself to trimming of flowers1 ribbons1 or malines4 ,in this case the bottom of the crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape4 ,if a high luster is desired1 a coating of shellac may be applied the last thing before trimming4 ,,light ,,straw ,,hats-- ,light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or gasoline4 ,if the hat is in need of bleaching1 sulphur and water may be used1 or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use according to printed directions4 ,two or three coatings of coloring will change the color4 ,pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two different colors1 one over the other4 ,this1 of course1 requires experience and should be tried out before using on a hat4 ,,when ,,straw ,,is ,,to ,,be ,,re-,,sewed-- ,rip carefully from the foundation2 brush and press carefully4 ,some straw will not stand dampening1 so try out a small piece first4 ,place it on a heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side4 ,,panama ,,hats-- ,it is much more satisfactory to send a ,panama to a good professional cleaner4 ,a ,panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material1 such as georgette or crepe de chine1 finished off at the edge over a wire4 ,the facing may be put on top of the brim if desired4 ,the entire crown is sometimes changed by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon4 ,another change might be made by covering the entire crown with flower petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves4 ,they should then be covered with a layer or more of maline4 ,this is a good way to use up old flowers4 ,the flowers will stand a lot of retouching with color when they are veiled4 ,,old ,,buckram ,,frames-- ,when a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape1 remove all the covering4 ,dampen the frame and press with a hot iron4 ,a roll of cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown4 ,a break in buckram is difficult to remove2 however1 if new material is not available1 much may be done with the old4 ,do not remove the headsize wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed4 ,if the headsize wire is too large or too small1 now is the time to change it4 ,if the general shape of the brim is to be changed1 remove the edge wire and trim to the required width4 ,if it is to droop or roll1 slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap one-quarter of an inch at the edge4 ,slash in several places if necessary4 ,sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat4 ,if a brim is to be made more flat or flaring1 slash and add ,v-shaped pieces of buckram4 ,if the headsize is entirely too large1 this may be remedied by dividing the brim into halves4 ,remove the headsize wire and the edge wire1 cutting through from front to back4 ,lap and sew2 make the headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim4 ,trim the outer edge of the brim and add the edge wire4 ,the same thing may be done to the crown4 ,if too large1 divide into halves and lap the edges until it is the required size1 or a piece of material may be added to make the crown larger4 ,the crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base1 or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base4 ,when a fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old covering1 but it can sometimes be done4 ,,blocking ,,over ,,wire ,,frames-- ,if a buckram frame needs changing radically1 it may be done by blocking over a wire frame made for the purpose4 ,the wire frame should have six sticks instead of four1 and circles not more than one inch apart1 shaped as desired4 ,old or new buckram1 neteen1 or any coarse material which has been heavily starched1 may be used4 ,wet the fabric thoroughly with warm water4 ,block the crown first4 ,place the material over the crown and pull it down until all the wrinkles are removed1 pin closely to the headsize wire all around4 ,when dry1 mark with a pencil all around close to the headsize wire1 remove from the frame1 cut on the pencil mark and sew a headsize wire on the edge4 ,if there are marks of the wire to be removed1 hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot iron4 ,the brim is managed in the same way4 ,mark at the headsize1 cut off at this point one-half inch inside the mark1 and sew a headsize wire on the pencil mark4 ,mark at the edge wire1 cut off at the pencil mark1 and finish with edge wire4 ,,new ,,brims ,,for ,,old ,,crowns-- ,if the brim of a hat is past renewing1 a new one may be made1 or the wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet1 or any fabric or straw4 ,the wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old1 half-worn waist will do nicely1 using the back or sleeves1 or any portions that are not too badly worn4 ,when a heavier crown is used1 the edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown sewed at the edge1 or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid4 ,,felt ,,and ,,beaver ,,hats-- ,when soiled1 clean with gasoline and cornmeal4 ,to restore the gloss1 rub the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a small block of wood4 ,rub with the nap4 ,to complete the process1 remove the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet4 ,rub this on a hot iron1 then on beeswax4 ,continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap until it is restored to its original freshness4 ,the crown must be packed with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory work4 ,if the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the edge1 mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut4 ,sew on this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times1 and the felt will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point4 ,this looks much better than when cut with shears or with a knife4 ,,renovation ,,of ,,hat ,,coverings ,,and ,,linings-- ,to freshen velvet and raise the pile1 brush well to remove the dust4 ,with the wrong side down1 hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water4 ,an assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it is passed back and forth over the steam4 ,the great force of the steam will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp cloth over a hot iron4 ,if the velvet after steaming is found to be still too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain1 it may be gathered a half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim1 or it may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron1 always ironing lightly one way1 using a sweeping motion4 ,do not let the iron rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark4 ,,to ,,freshen ,,crepe ,,for ,,mourning ,,millinery-- ,brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust4 ,clean in gasoline if necessary4 ,crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly and evenly on a padded surface1 a damp cloth placed over it1 then a hot iron passed over it without touching it1 but near enough so that a slight amount of steam will dampen the crepe4 ,remove the cloth and allow the crepe to dry in place4 ,crepe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not given the best of care4 ,,cleaning1 ,,curling1 ,,and ,,tinting ,,feathers-- ,to clean1 immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few spoonfuls of cornmeal4 ,draw the feather through the hands several times until it is clean2 rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air till dry4 ,a very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing4 ,to curl1 draw the flues1 a very few at a time1 over a blunt knife4 ,a plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired effect4 ,the end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat1 while the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat1 otherwise it will look stiff4 ,,ribbons-- ,if soiled1 they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water1 using a brush4 ,do not rub or wring4 ,hang up to drip dry1 or wind tightly around a bottle and leave to dry4 ,do not press until after twenty-four hours1 if cleaned in gasoline4 ,to produce extra stiffness1 rinse in a weak solution of sugar and water4 ,it is also very easy to change the color of ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes4 ,,flowers-- ,if flowers are faded1 they may be touched up with water-color4 ,if they are pink1 rouge may be used effectively4 ,if the edges are much frayed1 trim them slightly with the shears4 ,green leaves may be dipped in hot paraffine to restore their gloss1 or pressed with a warm iron without paraffine4 ,even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if veiled with maline or georgette4 ,,quills-- ,quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed4 ,a quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water4 ,place a dull knife on the underside and press the quill hard enough to make a sharp dent4 ,do this every half inch4 ,if the quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily1 and the result is permanent4 ,,wings-- ,loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline or a hair net of the same color4 ,wings may be covered with a coat of shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look4 ,,lace-- ,most laces may be washed in warm1 soapy water4 ,press gently in the hands--do not rub4 ,press the water out after having rinsed the lace well in warm water4 ,shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet1 being careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place4 ,allow it to dry4 ,if necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side4 ,some laces are greatly improved by pressing4 ,,malines-- ,malines may be used to good advantage1 even if parts are badly worn and faded4 ,place a thin1 damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron4 ,allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board4 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's note ,the following typographical errors were corrected4 ,page ,change #ah ,,to ,,cover ,,side ,,crown changed to ,,to ,,cover ,,side ,,crown-- #ajh ,,crepe changed to ,,crepe #aaj ,,wings changed to ,,wings--