from the ,university of ,michigan ,digital ,libraries47 ,transcriber's note3 ,the accentuation and spelling of the original has been retained4 ,this may at times seem variable3 e4g41 manati and manat4 ,greek transliterations appear between signs4 ,this symbol3 o1 which appears once to represent the letter o with a line above it4 ,italics are indicated by under-scores1 as in this example3 ,,new ,,york34 ,the illustrations are viewable in the ,,xhtml version4 ,illustration3 ,,palms ,,on ,,the ,,middle ,,amazon4 ,,the ,,andes ,,and ,,the ,,amazon3 ,,or1 ,,across ,,the ,,continent ,,of ,,south ,,america4 ,by ,,james ,,orton1 ,m4,a4 ,,professor ,,of ,,natural ,,history ,,in ,,vassar ,,college1 ,,poughkeepsie1 ,n4,y41 ,,and ,,corresponding ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,academy ,,of ,,natural ,,sciences1 ,,philadelphia4 ,,with ,a ,,new ,,map ,,of ,,equatorial ,,america ,,and ,,numerous ,,illustrations4 ,,new ,,york3 ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,publishers1 ,,franklin ,,square #ahgj4 ,entered1 according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahfi1 by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court of the ,united ,states for the ,southern ,district of ,new ,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,to ,,charles ,,darwin1 ,m4,a41 ,f4,r4,s41 ,f4,l4,s41 ,f4,g4,s41 ,,whose ,,profound ,,researches ,,have ,,thrown ,,so ,,much ,,light ,,upon ,,every ,,department ,,of ,,science1 ,,and ,,whose ,,charming ,,voyage ,,of ,,the ,,beagle ,,has ,,so ,,pleasantly ,,associated ,,his ,,name ,,with ,,our ,,southern ,,continent1 ,,these ,,sketches ,,of ,,the ,,andes ,,and ,,the ,,amazon ,,are1 ,,by ,,permission1 ,,most ,,respectfully ,dedicated4 99 99 99 99 99 ,among the scenes which are deeply impressed on my mind1 none exceed in sublimity the primeval forests undefaced by the hand of man2 whether those of ,brazil1 where the powers of ,life are predominant1 or those of ,terra del ,fuego1 where ,death and ,decay prevail4 ,both are temples filled with the varied productions of the ,god of ,nature3 no one can stand in these solitudes unmoved1 and not feel that there is more in man than the mere breath of his body4--,,darwin',s ,journal1 p4 #ejc4 ,,preface4 ,this volume is one result of a scientific expedition to the equatorial ,andes and the river ,amazon4 ,the expedition was made under the auspices of the ,smithsonian ,institution1 and consisted of the following gentlemen besides the writer3 ,colonel ,staunton1 of ,ingham ,university1 ,leroy1 ,n4,y42 ,f4,s4 ,williams1 ,esq41 of ,albany1 ,n4,y42 and ,messrs4 ,p4,v4 ,myers and ,a4 ,bushnell1 of ,williams ,college4 ,we sailed from ,new ,york ,july #a1 #ahfg2 and1 after crossing the ,isthmus of ,panama and touching at ,paita1 ,peru1 our general route was from ,guayaquil to ,quito1 over the ,eastern ,cordillera2 thence over the ,western ,cordillera1 and through the forest on foot to ,napo2 down the ,rio ,napo by canoe to ,pebas1 on the ,maraon2 and thence by steamer to ,par4#a ,footnote #a3 ,another division1 consisting of ,messrs4 ,h4,m4 ,myers1 ,r4,h4 ,forbes1 and ,w4 ,gilbert1 of ,williams ,college1 proceeded to ,venezuela1 and after exploring the vicinity of ,lake ,valencia1 the two former traversed the ,ilanos to ,pao1 descended the ,apur and ascended the ,orinoco to ,yavita1 crossed the portage of ,pimichin 7a low1 level tract1 nine miles wide1 separating the waters of the ,orinoco from those of the ,amazon71 and descended the ,negro to ,manos1 making a voyage by canoe of over #bjjj miles through a little-known but deeply-interesting region4 ,a narrative of this expedition will soon be given to the public4 ,nearly the entire region traversed by the expedition is strangely misrepresented by the most recent geographical works4 ,on the ,andes of ,ecuador we have little besides the travels of ,humboldt2 on the ,napo1 nothing2 while the ,maraon is less known to ,north ,americans than the ,nile4 ,many of the following pages first appeared in the ,new ,york ,evening ,post4 ,the author has also published ,physical ,observations on the ,andes and the ,amazon and ,geological ,notes on the ,ecuadorian ,andes in the ,american ,journal of ,science1 an article on the great earthquake of #ahfh in the ,rochester ,democrat1 and a paper ,on the ,valley of the ,amazon read before the ,american ,association at ,salem4 ,these papers have been revised and extended1 though the popular form has been retained4 ,it has been the effort of the writer to present a condensed but faithful picture of the physical aspect1 the resources1 and the inhabitants of this vast country1 which is destined to become an important field for commercial enterprise4 ,for detailed descriptions of the collections in natural history1 the scientific reader is referred to the various reports of the following gentlemen1 to whom the specimens were committed by the ,smithsonian ,institution3 ,volcanic ,rocks ,dr4 ,t4 ,sterry ,hunt1 ,f4,r4,s41 ,montreal4 ,plants ,dr4 ,asa ,gray1 ,cambridge4 ,land and ,fresh-water ,shells4 ,m4 ,crosse1 ,paris1 and ,thomas ,bland1 ,esq41 ,new ,york4 ,marine ,shells ,rev4 ,dr4 ,e4,r4 ,beadle1 ,philadelphia4 ,fossil ,shells ,w4,m4 ,gabb1 ,esq41 ,philadelphia4 ,hemiptera ,prof4 ,p4,r4 ,uhler1 ,baltimore4 ,orthoptera ,s4,h4 ,scudder1 ,esq41 ,boston4 ,hymenoptera and ,nocturnal ,lepidoptera ,dr4 ,a4,s4 ,packard1 ,jr41 ,salem4 ,diurnal ,lepidoptera ,tryon ,reakirt1 ,esq41 ,philadelphia4 ,coleoptera ,george ,d4 ,smith1 ,esq41 ,boston4 ,phalangia and ,pedipalpi ,dr4 ,h4,c4 ,wood1 ,jr41 ,philadelphia4 ,fishes ,dr4 ,theodore ,gill1 ,washington4 ,reptiles ,prof4 ,e4,d4 ,cope1 ,philadelphia4 ,birds ,john ,cassin1 ,esq41#b ,philadelphia4 ,bats ,dr4 ,h4 ,allen1 ,philadelphia4 ,mammalian ,fossils ,dr4 ,joseph ,leidy1 ,philadelphia4 ,footnote #b3 ,this eminent ornithologist died in the midst of his examination4 ,mr4 ,george ,n4 ,lawrence1 of ,new ,york1 has identified the remainder1 including all the hummers4 ,many of the type specimens are deposited in the museums of the ,smithsonian ,institution1 the ,philadelphia ,academy of ,natural ,science1 the ,boston ,society of ,natural ,history1 the ,peabody ,academy of ,science1 and ,vassar ,college2 but the bulk of the collection was purchased by ,ingham ,university1 ,leroy1 ,new ,york4 ,the ,map of ,equatorial ,america was drawn with great care after original observations and the surveys of ,humboldt and ,wisse on the ,andes1 and of ,azevedo1 ,castlenau1 and ,bates on the ,amazon4#c ,the names of ,indian tribes are in small capitals4 ,most of the illustrations are after photographs or drawings made on the ground1 and can be relied upon4 ,the portrait of ,humboldt1 which is for the first time presented to the public1 was photographed from the original painting in the possession of ,sr4 ,aguirre1 ,quito4 ,unlike the usual portrait--an old man1 in ,berlin--this presents him as a young man in ,prussian uniform1 traveling on the ,andes4 ,footnote #c3 ,we have retained the common orthography of this word1 though ,amazons1 used by ,bates1 is doubtless more correct1 as more akin to the ,brazilian name ,amazonas4 ,we desire to express our grateful acknowledgments to the ,smithsonian ,institution1 ,hon4 ,william ,h4 ,seward1 and ,hon4 ,james ,a4 ,garfield1 of ,washington2 to ,cyrus ,w4 ,field1 ,esq41 and ,william ,pitt ,palmer1 ,esq41 of ,new ,york2 to ,c4,p4 ,williams1 ,esq41 of ,albany2 to ,rev4 ,j4,c4 ,fletcher1 now ,united ,states ,consul at ,oporto2 to ,chaplain ,jones1 of ,philadelphia2 to ,dr4 ,william ,jameson1 of the ,university of ,quito2 to ,j4,f4 ,reeve1 ,esq41 and ,captain ,lee1 of ,guayaquil2 to the ,pacific ,mail ,steamship1 ,panama ,railroad1 and ,south ,pacific ,steam ,navigation companies2 to the officers of the ,peruvian and ,brazilian steamers on the ,amazon2 and to the eminent naturalists who have examined the results of the expedition4 ,,note4--,osculati has alone preceded us1 so far as we can learn1 in obtaining a vocabulary of ,zparo words2 but1 as his work is not to be found in this country1 we have not had the pleasure of making a comparison4 ,,introduction ,,by ,,rev4 ,j4,c4 ,,fletcher1 ,,author ,,of ,,brazil ,,and ,,brazilians4 ,in this day of many voyages1 in the ,old ,world and the ,new1 it is refreshing to find an untrodden path4 ,central ,africa has been more fully explored than that region of ,equatorial ,america which lies in the midst of the ,western ,andes and upon the slopes of these mountain monarchs which look toward the ,atlantic4 ,in this century one can almost count upon his hand the travelers who have written of their journeys in this unknown region4 ,our own ,herndon and ,gibbon descended--the one the ,peruvian and the other the ,bolivian waters--the affluents of the ,amazon1 beginning their voyage where the streams were mere channels for canoes1 and finishing it where the great river appears a fresh-water ocean4 ,mr4 ,church1 the artist1 made the sketches for his famous ,heart of the ,andes where the headwaters of the ,amazon are rivulets4 ,but no one whose language is the ,english has journeyed down and described the voyage from the plateaux of ,ecuador to the ,atlantic ,ocean until ,professor ,orton and his party accomplished this feat in #ahfh4 ,yet it was over this very route that the ,king of ,waters 7as the ,amazon is called by the aborigines7 was originally discovered4 ,the auri sacra fames1 which in #aeda urged the adventurous ,gonzalo ,pizarro to hunt for the fabled city of ,el ,dorado in the depths of the ,south ,american forests1 led to the descent of the great river by ,orellana1 a knight of ,truxillo4 ,the fabled women-warriors were said to have been seen in this notable voyage1 and hence the name of the river ,amazon1 a name which in ,spanish and ,portuguese is in the plural4 ,it was not until nearly one hundred years after ,orellana was in his grave that a voyage of discovery ascended the river4 ,in #afcg ,pedro ,teixeira started from ,par with an expedition of nearly two thousand 7all but seventy of whom were natives71 and with varied experiences1 by water and by land1 the explorer in eight months reached the city of ,quito1 where he was received with distinguished honor4 ,two hundred years ago the result of this expedition was published4 ,the ,amazon was from that time1 at rare intervals1 the highway of ,spanish and ,portuguese priests and friars1 who thus went to their distant charges among the ,indians4 ,in #agde the ,french academician ,de la ,condamine descended from ,quito to ,par1 and gave the most accurate idea of the great valley which we had until the first quarter of this century4 ,the narrow policy of ,spain and ,portugal was most unfruitful in its results to ,south ,america4 ,a jealous eye guarded that great region1 of which it can be so well said there are ,realms unknown and blooming wilds1 ,and fruitful deserts1 worlds of solitude1 ,where the sun smiles and seasons teem in vain4 ,now1 the making known to the world of any portion of these fruitful deserts is performing a service for the world4 ,this ,professor ,orton has done4 ,his interesting and valuable volume hardly needs any introduction or commendation1 for its intrinsic merit will exact the approbation of every reader4 ,scientific men1 and tourists who seek for new routes of travel1 will appreciate it at once2 and ,i trust that the time is near at hand when our mercantile men1 by the perusal of such a work1 will see how wide a field lies before them for future commercial enterprise4 ,this portion of the tropics abounds in natural resources which only need the stimulus of capital to draw them forth to the light2 to create among the natives a desire for articles of civilization in exchange for the crude productions of the forest2 and to stimulate emigration to a healthy region of perpetual summer4 ,it seems as if ,providence were opening the way for a great change in the ,valley of the ,amazon4 ,that immense region drained by the great river is as large as all the ,united ,states east of the ,states of ,california and ,oregon and the ,territory of ,washington1 and yet it has been so secluded1 mainly by the old monopolistic policy of ,portugal1 that that vast space has not a population equal to the single city of ,rio de ,janeiro or of ,brooklyn4 ,two million five hundred thousand square miles are drained by the ,amazon4 ,three fourths of ,brazil1 one half of ,bolivia1 two thirds of ,peru1 three fourths of ,ecuador1 and a portion of ,venezuela are watered by this river4 ,riches1 mineral and vegetable1 of inexhaustible supply have been here locked up for centuries4 ,brazil held the key1 but it was not until under the rule of their present constitutional monarch1 ,don ,pedro ,,ii41 that the ,brazilians awoke to the necessity of opening this glorious region4 ,steamers were introduced in #ahec1 subsidized by the government4 ,but it is to a young ,brazilian statesman1 ,sr4 ,a4,c4 ,tavares ,bastos1 that belongs the credit of having agitated1 in the press and in the national parliament1 the opening of the ,amazon1 until public opinion1 thus acted upon1 produced the desired result4 ,on another occasion1 in ,may1 #ahfh1 ,i gave several indices of a more enlightened policy in ,brazil1 and stated that the opening of the ,amazon1 which occurred on the #gth of ,september1 #ahfg1 and by which the great river is free to the flags of all nations1 from the ,atlantic to ,peru1 and the abrogation of the monopoly of the coast-trade from the ,amazon to the ,rio ,grande do ,sul1 whereby #djjj miles of ,brazilian sea-coast are open to the vessels of every country1 can not fail not only to develop the resources of ,brazil1 but will prove of great benefit to the bordering ,hispano-,american republics and to the maritime nations of the earth4 ,the opening of the ,amazon is the most significant indication that the leaven of the narrow monopolistic ,portuguese conservatism has at last worked out4 ,portugal would not allow ,humboldt to enter the ,amazon ,valley in ,brazil4 ,the result of the new policy is beyond the most sanguine expectation4 ,the exports and imports for ,par for ,october and ,november1 #ahfg1 were double those of #ahff4 ,this is but the beginning4 ,soon it will be found that it is cheaper for ,bolivia1 ,peru1 ,ecuador1 and ,new ,granada1 east of the ,andes1 to receive their goods from1 and to export their ,india-rubber1 cinchona1 etc41 to the ,united ,states and ,europe1 via the great water highway which discharges into the ,atlantic1 than by the long1 circuitous route of ,cape ,horn or the trans-,isthmian route of ,panama4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,guayaquil4--,first and ,last ,impressions4--,climate4--,commerce4--,t he ,malecon4--,glimpse of the ,andes4--,scenes on the ,guayas4--,bodegas4--,mounted for ,quito4--,la ,mena4--,a ,tropical ,forest444444,page #be ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,our ,tambo4--,ascending the ,andes4--,camino ,real4--,magnificent ,views4 --,guaranda4--,cinchona4--,the ,summit4--,chimborazo4--,over the ,andes4--,chuquipoyo the ,wretched4--,ambato4--,a ,stupid ,city4--,cotopaxi4--,the ,vale of ,machachi4--,arrival at ,quito444444#dj ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,early ,history of ,quito4--,its ,splendor under the ,incas4--,crushed by ,spain4 --,dying now4--,situation4--,altitude4--,streets4 --,buildings444444#ef ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,population of ,quito4--,dress4--,manners4--,character4 --,commerce4--,agriculture4 --,manufactures4--,arts4--,education4--, amusements4--,quito ,ladies444444#fh ,,chapter ,v4 ,ecuador4--,extent4--,government4--,reli gion4--,a ,protestant ,cemetery in ,quito4--,climate4--,regularity of ,tropical ,nature4 --,diseases on the ,highlands444444#he ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,astronomic ,virtues of ,quito4--,flora and ,fauna of the ,valley of ,quito4 --,primeval ,inhabitants of the ,andes4--,quichua ,indians444444#ig ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,geological ,history of ,south ,america4--,rise of the ,andes4--,creation of the ,amazon4--,characteristic ,features of the ,continent4--,andean ,chain4--,the ,equatorial ,volcanoes444444#aad ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,the ,volcanoes of ,ecuador4--,western ,cordillera4--,chimborazo4--,iliniza4 --,corazon4--,pichincha4--,descent into its ,crater4 ,page #abg ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,the ,volcanoes of ,ecuador4--,eastern ,cordillera4--,imbabura4--,cayambi4--,an tisana4 --,cotopaxi4--,llanganati4--,tunguragua4 --,altar4--,saugai444444#adc ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,valley of ,quito4--,riobamba4--,a ,bed of ,fossil ,giants4--,chillo ,hacienda4 --,otovalo and ,ibarra4--,the ,great ,earthquake of #ahfh444444aeb ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,the ,province of the ,orient1 or the ,wild ,napo ,country4--,the ,napos1 ,zaparos1 and ,jvaros ,indians4--,preparations to cross the ,continent444444#afd ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,departure from ,quito4--,itulcachi4--,a ,night in a ,bread-tray4--,crossing the ,cordillera4--,guamani4--,papallacta4--, domiciled at the ,governor's4--,an ,indian ,aristides4--,our ,peon ,train4--,in the ,wilderness444444#agg ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,baeza4--,the ,forest4--,crossing the ,cosanga4--,curi-urcu4--,archidona4--,ap pearance1 ,customs1 and ,belief of the ,natives4--,napo and ,napo ,river444444#ahg ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,afloat on the ,napo4--,down the ,rapids4--,santa ,rosa and its mulish ,alcalde4 --,pratt on ,discipline4--,forest ,music4--,coca4--,our ,craft and ,crew4--,storm on the ,napo444444#bjj ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,sea-,cows and ,turtles' ,eggs4--,the ,forest4--,peccaries4--,indian ,tribes on the ,lower ,napo4--,anacondas and ,howling ,monkeys4--,insect ,pests4--,battle with ,ants4--,barometric ,anomaly4--,first ,view of the ,amazon4--,pebas444444#bae ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,down the ,amazon4--,steam on the ,great ,river4--,loreto4--,san ,antonio4--,tabatinga4 --,brazilian ,steamers4--,scenery on the ,amazon4--,tocantns4--,fonte ,boa4--,ega4--,rio ,negro4--,manos444444#bcj ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,down the ,amazon4--,serpa4--,villa ,nova4--,obidos4--,santarem4--,a ,colony of ,southerners4--,monte ,algre4--,porto do ,moz4--,leaving the ,amazon4 --,breves4--,par ,river4--,the ,city of ,par4--,legislation and ,currency4 --,religion and ,education4--,nonpareil ,climate4 ,page #bdg ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,the ,river ,amazon4--,its ,source and ,magnitude4--,tributaries and ,tints4--,volume and ,current4--,rise and ,fall4--,navigation4--,expeditions on the ,great ,river444444#bfd ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,the ,valley of the ,amazon4--,its ,physical ,geography4--,geology4--,climate4 --,vegetation444444#bhj ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,life within the ,great ,river4--,fishes4--,alligators4--,turtle s4--,porpoises and ,manats444444#bie ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,life around the ,great ,river4--,insects4--,reptiles4--,birds4- -,mammals444444#cjj ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,life around the ,great ,river4--,origin of the ,red ,man4--,general ,characteristics of the ,amazonian ,indians4--,their ,languages1 ,costumes1 and ,habitations4 --,principal ,tribes4--,mixed ,breeds4--,brazilians and ,brazil444444#cae ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,how to ,travel in ,south ,america4--,routes4--,expenses4--,outfit 4--,precautions4 --,dangers444444#cbe ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,in ,memoriam444444#ccd ,,appendices ,,appendix ,a ,barometrical ,measurements across ,south ,america ,page #cch ,,appendix ,b ,vocabularies from the ,quichua1 ,zparo1 ,ygua1 and ,cmpas ,languages #cdj ,,appendix ,c ,commerce of the ,amazon #cdd ,,addenda #cdi ,,index #cdi ,,illustrations ,palms on the ,middle ,amazon ,frontispiece ,cathedral of ,guayaquil ,page #bg ,equipped for the ,andes #cg ,ascending the ,andes #db ,quito from the ,north #fa ,water-carriers #fb ,street in ,quito #fc ,capitol at ,quito #ff ,indian ,dwellings #gh ,washerwomen #hc ,ecclesiastics #hh ,profiles of ,ecuadorian ,volcanoes #abc ,crater of ,pichincha #ace ,humboldt in #ahjb #aef ,ibarra #aeh ,napo ,peon #ahd ,autograph of an ,indian #ahe ,papaya-tree #bjb ,trapiche1 or ,sugar-mill #bjh ,our ,craft on the ,napo #baa ,hunting ,turtle-eggs #bag ,a ,howler #bbc ,kitchen on the ,amazon #bch ,natives on the ,middle ,amazon #bda ,a ,siesta #bdd ,santarem #bej ,par #bee ,fruit-peddlers #bei ,igarap1 or ,canoe-path #bfe ,coca-plant #bic ,iguana #cje ,toucans #cjg ,brazilian ,hummers ,page #cji ,capybara #caj ,jaguar #caa ,native ,comb #cag ,colonel ,staunton ,to face page #ccd ,map of ,equatorial ,america ,end4 ,,the ,,andes ,,and ,,the ,,amazon4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,guayaquil4--,first and ,last ,impressions4--,climate4--,commerce4--,t he ,malecon4--,glimpse of the ,andes4--,scenes on the ,guayas4--,bodegas4--,mounted for ,quito4--,la ,mona4--,a ,tropical ,forest4 ,late in the evening of the #aith of ,july1 #ahfg1 the steamer ,favorita dropped anchor in front of the city of ,guayaquil4 ,the first view awakened visions of ,oriental splendor4 ,before us was the ,malecon1 stretching along the river1 two miles in length--at once the most beautiful and the most busy street in the emporium of ,ecuador4 ,in the centre rose the ,government ,house1 with its quaint old tower1 bearing aloft the city clock4 ,on either hand were long rows of massive1 apparently marble1 three-storied buildings1 each occupying an entire square1 and as elegant as they were massive4 ,each story was blessed with a balcony1 the upper one hung with canvas curtains now rolled up1 the other protruding over the sidewalk to form a lengthened arcade like that of the ,rue de ,rivoli in imperial ,paris4 ,in this lower story were the gay shops of ,guayaquil1 filled with the prints1 and silks1 and fancy articles of ,england and ,france4 ,as this is the promenade street as well as the ,broadway of commerce1 crowds of ,ecuadorians1 who never do business in the evening1 leisurely paced the magnificent arcade2 hatless ladies sparkling with fire-flies#d instead of diamonds1 and far more brilliant than koh-i-noors1 swept the pavement with their long trains2 martial music floated on the gentle breeze from the barracks or some festive hall1 and a thousand gas-lights along the levee and in the city1 doubling their number by reflection from the river1 betokened wealth and civilization4 ,footnote #d3 ,the ,pyrophorus noctilucus1 or cucujo1 found also in ,mexico and the ,west ,indies4 ,it resembles our large spring-beetle4 ,the light proceeds from two eye-like spots on the thorax and from the segments underneath4 ,it feeds on the sugar-cane4 ,on the ,upper ,amazon we found the ,p4 clarus1 ,p4 pellucens1 and ,p4 tuberculatus4 ,at ,bahia1 on the opposite coast1 ,darwin found ,p4 luminosus1 the most common luminous insect4 ,we landed in the morning to find our vision a dissolving view in the light of the rising sun4 ,the princely mansions turned out to be hollow squares of wood-work1 plastered within and without1 and roofed with red tiles4 ,even the squares were only distant approximations2 not a right angle could we find in our hotel4 ,all the edifices are built 7very properly in this climate7 to admit air instead of excluding it1 and the architects have wonderfully succeeded2 but with the air is wafted many an odor not so pleasing as the spicy breezes from ,ceylon's isle4 ,the cathedral is of elegant design4 ,its photograph is more imposing than ,notre ,dame1 and a ,latin inscription tells us that it is the ,gate of ,heaven4 ,but a near approach reveals a shabby structure1 and the pewless interior is made hideous by paintings and images which certainly must be caricatures4 ,a few genuine works of art imported from ,italy alone relieve the mind of the visitor4 ,excepting a few houses on the ,malecon1 and not excepting the cathedral1 the majority of the buildings have a tumble-down appearance1 which is not altogether due to the frequent earthquakes which have troubled this city2 while the habitations in the outskirts are exceedingly primitive1 floored and walled with split cane and thatched with leaves1 the first story occupied by domestic animals and the second by their owners4 ,the city is quite regularly laid out1 the main streets running parallel to the river4 ,a few streets are rudely paved1 many are shockingly filthy1 and all of them yield grass to the delight of stray donkeys and goats4 ,a number of mule-carts1 half a dozen carriages1 one omnibus1 and a hand-car on the ,malecon1 sum up the wheeled vehicles of ,guayaquil4 ,the population is twenty-two thousand1 the same for thirty years past4 ,of these1 about twenty are from the ,united ,states1 and perhaps twenty-five can command #ajj1jjj4 ,no foreigner has had reason to complain that ,guayaquilians lacked the virtues of politeness and hospitality4 ,the ladies dress in excellent taste1 and are proverbial for their beauty4 ,spanish1 ,indian1 and ,negro blood mingle in the lower classes4 ,the city supports two small papers1 ,los ,andes and ,la ,patria1 but they are usually issued about ten days behind date4 ,the hourly cry of the night-watchman is quite as musical as that of the muezzin in ,constantinople4 ,at eleven o'clock1 for example1 they sing ,ave ,maria purissima6 los once han dedo1 noche clara y serena4 ,viva la ,patria6 ,illustration3 ,cathedral of ,guayaquil4 ,the full name of the city is ,santiago de ,guayaquil4#e ,it is so called1 first1 because the conquest of the province was finished on the #beth of ,july 7the day of ,st4 ,james71 #aecc2 and1 secondly1 after ,guayas1 a feudatory cacique of ,atahuallpa4 ,it was created a city by ,charles ,v41 ,october #f1 #aece4 ,it has suffered much in its subsequent history by fires and earthquakes1 pirates and pestilence4 ,it is situated on the right bank of the ,river ,guayas1 sixty miles from the ocean1 and but a few feet above its level4 ,though the most western city in ,south ,america1 it is only two degrees west of the longitude of ,washington1 and it is the same distance below the equator--,orion sailing directly overhead1 and the ,southern ,cross taking the place of the ,great ,dipper4 ,the mean annual temperature1 according to our observations1 is #hc4 ,there are two seasons1 the wet1 or invierno1 and the dry1 or verano4 ,the verano is called the summer1 although astronomically it is winter2 it begins in ,june and terminates in ,november4#f ,the heavy rains come on about ,christmas4 ,march is the rainiest month in the year1 and ,july the coldest4 ,it is at the close of the invierno 7,may7 that fevers most abound4 ,the climate of ,guayaquil during the dry season is nearly perfect4 ,at daybreak there is a cool easterly breeze2 at sunrise a brief lull1 and then a gentle variable wind2 at #c ,p4,m4 a southwest wind1 at first in gusts1 then in a sustained current2 at sunset the same softened down to a gentle breeze1 increasing about #g ,p4,m41 and dying away about #c ,a4,m4 ,notwithstanding heaps of filth and green-mantled pools1 sufficient to start a pestilence if transported to ,new ,york1 the city is usually healthy1 due in great part1 no doubt1 to countless flocks of buzzards which greedily wait upon decay4 ,these carrion-hawks enjoy the protection of law1 a heavy fine being imposed for wantonly killing one4#g ,it is during the rainy season that this port earns the reputation of being one of the most pestiferous spots on the globe4 ,the air is then hot and oppressive1 reminding the geologist of the steaming atmosphere in the carboniferous period2 the surrounding plains are flooded with water1 and the roads1 even some of the streets of the city1 become impassable2 intolerable musquitoes1 huge cockroaches1 disgusting centipedes1 venomous scorpions1 and still more deadly serpents1 keep the human species circumspect1 and fevers and dysenteries do the work of death4 ,footnote #e3 ,the ancient name was ,culenta4 ,footnote #f3 ,the continuity of the dry season is broken by a rainy fit commencing a few days after the autumnal equinox1 and called el ,cordonazo de ,san ,francisco4 ,throughout ,south ,america 7observes ,mr4 ,spruce7 the periodical alternations of dry and rainy weather are laid to the account of those saints whose 'days' coincide nearly with the epochs of change4 ,but if the weather be rainy when it ought to be fair1 or if the rains of winter be heavier than ordinary1 the blame is invariably laid on the moon4 ,footnote #g3 ,the turkey-buzzard1 the ,john ,crow of the ,west ,indies1 is not a social bird1 though a score are often seen together3 each comes and goes by himself4 ,the ,guayas is the largest river on the ,pacific coast2 and ,guayaquil monopolizes the commerce of ,ecuador1 for it is the only port4 ,esmeraldas and ,peylon are not to be mentioned4 ,through its custom-house passes nearly every import and export4 ,the green banks of the ,guayas1 covered with an exuberant growth1 are in strong contrast with the sterile coast of ,peru1 and the possession of ,guayaquil has been a coveted prize since the days of ,pizarro4 ,few spots between the tropics can vie with this lowland in richness and vigor of vegetation4 ,immense quantities of cacao--second only to that of ,caracas--are produced1 though but a fraction is gathered1 owing to the scarcity of laborers1 so many ,ecuadorians have been exiled or killed in senseless revolutions4 ,twenty million pounds are annually exported1 chiefly to ,spain2 and two million pounds of excellent coffee1 which often finds its way into ,new ,york under the name of pure ,java4 ,there are three or four kinds of indigenous cacao on this coast1 all richly deserving the generic title ,theobroma1 or food for the gods4 ,the best grows in ,esmeraldas1 as it contains the largest amount of oil and has the most pleasant flavor4 ,but very little of it is exported1 because it rots in about six months4 ,the cacao de arriba1 from up the ,river ,guayas1 is the best to export1 as it keeps two years without damage4 ,next in order is the cacao de abajo1 from down the river1 as ,machala1 ,santa ,rosa1 ,balao1 and ,manabi1 below ,guayaquil4 ,a still richer nut is the mountain cacao1 but it is never cultivated4 ,it is small and white1 and almost pure oil4 ,this oil1 called cacao-butter1 is used by the natives for burns1 sores1 and many cutaneous diseases4 ,cacao contributes more to the commerce of the republic than any other production of its soil4 ,the flowers and fruit grow directly out of the trunk and branches4 ,a more striking example 7says ,humboldt7 of the expansive powers of life could hardly be met with in organic nature4 ,the fruit is yellowish-red1 and of oblong shape1 and the seeds 7from which chocolate is prepared7 are enveloped in a mass of white pulp4 ,the tree resembles our lilac in size and shape1 and yields three crops a year--in ,march1 ,june1 and ,september4 ,spain is the largest consumer of cacao4 ,the ,mexican chocolalt is the origin of our word chocolate4 ,tucker gives the following comparative analysis of unshelled beans from ,guayaquil and ,caracas3 ,guayaquil4 ,caracas4 ,theobromine #j4fc #j4ee ,cacao-red #d4ef #f4ah ,cacao-butter #cf4ch #ce4jh ,gluten #b4if #c4ba ,starch #j4ec #j4fb ,gum #a4eh #a4ai ,extractive matter #c4dd #f4bb ,humic acid #h4eg #i4bh ,cellulose #cj4ej #bh4ff ,ash #c4jc #b4ia ,water #f4bj #e4eh ----- ----- #ih4ch #ii4dh ,the coffee-tree is about eight feet high1 and has dark green leaves1 white blossoms1 and green1 red1 and purple berries at the same time4 ,each tree yields on an average two pounds annually4 ,the other chief articles of exportation are hides1 cotton1 ,panama hats1 manufactured at ,indian villages on the coast1 cinchona bark1 caucho1 tobacco1 orchilla weed1 sarsaparilla1 and tamarinds4#h ,the hats are usually made of the ,toquilla 7,carludovica palmata71 an arborescent plant about five feet high1 resembling the palm4 ,the leaf1 which is a yard long1 is plaited like a fan1 and is borne on a three-cornered stalk4 ,it is cut while young1 the stiff parallel veins removed1 then slit into shreds by whipping it1 and immersed in boiling water1 and finally bleached in the sun4 ,the same straw is used in the interior4 ,the ,mocora1 which grows like a cocoa-nut tree1 with a very smooth1 hard1 thorny bark1 is rarely used1 as it is difficult to work4 ,the leaves are from eight to twelve feet in length1 so that the straws will finish a hat without splicing4 ,such hats require two or three months1 and bring sometimes #aej2 but they will last a lifetime4 ,they can be packed away in a vest pocket1 and they can be turned inside out and worn1 the inside surface being as smooth and well finished as the outside4 ,toquilla hats are whiter than the mocora4 ,footnote #h3 ,in #ahfg there were exported to ,europe of cacao1 #aig1bfj quintals2 cotton1 #aj1bdg do42 caucho1 #hiaa do42 sarsaparilla1 #adi do42 orchilla1 #aj1bdg packages2 quinine1 #ejjj do42 tobacco1 #bjjj do42 coffee1 #afaa do42 tamarinds1 #fe bbls42 sides of leather1 #bb1ead2 hats1 #hcig4 ,the exports from ,guayaquil bear no proportion to the capabilities of the country2 ,ecuador has no excuse for being bankrupt4 ,most of the imports are of ,english origin2 lard comes from the ,united ,states1 and flour from ,chile4 ,the ,malecon and river present a lively scene all the year round2 the rest of the city appears deserted in comparison4 ,the ,british steamers from ,panama and ,payta arrive weekly2 ,yankee steam-boats make regular trips up and down the ,guayas and its tributaries2 half a dozen sailing vessels1 principally ,french1 are usually lying in the stream1 which is here six fathoms deep2 and hundreds of canoes are gliding to and fro4 ,but the balsas are the most original1 and1 therefore1 the most attractive sight4 ,these are rafts made of light balsa wood1 so buoyant as to be used in coasting voyages4 ,they were invented by the old ,peruvians1 and are the homes of a literally floating population4 ,by these and the smaller craft are brought to the mole of the ,malecon1 besides articles for exportation1 a boundless variety of fruits--pine-apples 7whose quality has made ,guayaquil famous71 oranges1 lemons1 limes1 plantains1 bananas1 cocoa-nuts1 alligator pears1 papayas1 mangos1 guavas1 melons1 etc42 many an undescribed species of fish known only to the epicure1 and barrels or jars of water from a distant point up the river1 out of the reach of the tide and the city sewers4 ,ice is frequently brought from ,chimborazo1 and sold for #a per pound4 ,a flag hoisted at a favorite caf announces that snow has arrived from the mountains1 and that ice-cream can be had4 ,the market1 held every morning by the river side1 is an animated scene4 ,the strife of the half-naked fishmongers1 the cry of the swarthy fruit-dealers--,pinas6 ,naranjas6 etc41 and the song of the itinerant dulce-peddler--,tamales6 mingled with the bray of the water-bearing donkeys as they trot through the town1 never fail to arrest the attention of every traveler4 ,but there is another sight more attractive still--one worth a long voyage1 for ,nature nowhere else repeats the picture4 ,from the balconies of ,guayaquil can be seen on a clear day the long1 towering range of the ,andes4 ,we may forget all the incidents in our subsequent journey1 but the impression produced by that glorious view is unfading4 ,the sun had nearly touched the ,pacific when the clouds1 which for days had wrapped the ,cordilleras#i in misty robes1 suddenly rose like a curtain4 ,there stood1 in inconceivable grandeur1 one of the stupendous products of the last great revolution of the earth's crust1 as a geologist would say1 but1 in the language of history1 the lofty home of the ,incas1 made illustrious by the sword of ,pizarro and the pen of ,prescott4 ,on the right a sea of hills rose higher and higher1 till they culminated in the purple mountains of ,assuay4 ,far to the left1 one hundred miles northeasterly1 the peerless ,chimborazo lifted its untrodden and unapproachable summit above its fellows--an imposing background to lesser mountains and stately forests4 ,the great dome reflected dazzlingly the last blushes of the west1 its crown of snow fringed with black lines1 which were the steep and sharp edges of precipitous rocks4 ,it was interesting to watch the mellowing tints on the summit as the shadows crept upward3 gold1 vermilion1 violet1 purple1 were followed by a momentary glory2 then darkness covered the earth1 and a host of stars1 trembling with excess of light1 burst suddenly into view over the peaks of the ,andes4 ,footnote #i3 ,cordillera 7pronounced ,cor-de-yr-ra71 literally a long ridge1 is usually applied to a longitudinal subdivision of the ,andes1 as the east and west cordilleras inclosing the valley of ,quito2 ,sierra 7from the ,spanish for saw or ,arabic sehrah1 an uncultivated tract7 is a jagged spur of the ,andes2 ,cerro1 a hog-backed hill4 ,paramo 7a desert7 is the treeless1 uninhabited1 uncultivated rolling steppes just below the snow-limit4 ,bidding adios to our ,guayaquilian friends1 we took passage in one of ,captain ,lee's little steamers to ,bodegas1 seventy miles up the river4 ,the ,ecuadorian government1 strange to say1 does not patronize these steamers1 but carries the ,quito mail in a canoe4 ,the ,guayas is a sluggish stream1 its turbid waters starting from the slope of the ,andes1 and flowing through a low1 level tract1 covered with varied forms of vegetable life4 ,forests of the broad-leaved plantain and banana line the banks4 ,the fruit is the most common article of food in equatorial ,america1 and is eaten raw1 roasted1 baked1 boiled1 and fried4 ,it grows on a succulent stem formed of sheath-like leaf-stalks rolled over one another1 and terminating in enormous light green1 glossy blades nearly ten feet long by two feet wide1 so delicate that the slightest wind will tear them transversely4 ,each tree 7vulgarly called the tree of paradise7 produces fruit but once1 and then dies4 ,a single bunch often weighs #fj or #gj pounds2 and ,humboldt calculated that #cc pounds of wheat and #ii pounds of potatoes require the same space of ground as will produce #djjj pounds of bananas4 ,they really save more labor than steam1 giving the greatest amount of food from a given piece of ground with the least labor4 ,they are always found where the palm is2 but their original home is the foot of the ,himalayas4 ,the banana 7by some botanists considered a different species from the plantain7 is about four inches long1 and cylindrical1 and is eaten raw4 ,the plantain is twice as large and prismatic1 and uncooked is unhealthy4 ,there is another variety1 platanos de ,otaheite1 which resembles the banana in size and quality1 but is prismatic4 ,a belt of jungle and impenetrable brushwood intervenes1 and then cacao and coffee plantations1 vast in extent1 arrest the eye4 ,passing these1 the steamer brings you alongside of broad fields covered with the low1 prickly pine-apple plant2 the air is fragrant with a rich perfume wafted from a neighboring grove of oranges and lemons2 the mango spreads its dense1 splendid foliage1 and bears a golden fruit1 which1 though praised by many1 tastes to us like a mixture of tow and turpentine2 the exotic bread-tree waves its fig-like leaves and pendent fruit2 while high over all the beautiful cocoa-palm lifts its crown of glory4#aj ,animal life does not compare with this luxuriant growth4 ,the steamer-bound traveler may see a few monkeys1 a group of gallinazos1 and many brilliant1 though songless birds2 but the chief representative is the lazy1 ugly alligator4 ,large numbers of these monsters may be seen on the mud-bank basking in the hot sun1 or asleep with their mouths wide open4 ,footnote #aj3 ,the mango of ,asia is superior in size and flavor to that of ,america4 ,it is eaten largely in ,brazil by negroes and cattle4 ,the cocoa-palm is also of ,asiatic origin1 and is most abundant in ,ceylon4 ,it has a swollen stem when young1 but becomes straight and tall when mature4 ,the flowers burst into a long plume of soft1 cream-colored blossoms4 ,it is worthy of remembrance that the most beautiful forms of vegetation in the tropics are at the same time most useful to man4 ,eight hours after leaving the ,malecon we arrived at ,bodegas1 a little village of two thousand souls1 rejoicing in the synonym of ,babahoyo4 ,this has been a place of deposit for the interior from the earliest times4 ,in the rainy season the whole site is flooded1 and only the upper stories are habitable4 ,cock-fighting seems to be the chief amusement4 ,we breakfasted with the governor1 a portly gentleman who kept a little dry-goods store4 ,his excellency1 without waiting for a formal introduction1 and with a cordiality and courtesy almost confined to the ,latin nations1 received us into his own house1 and honored us with a seat at his private table1 spread with the choicest viands of his kingdom1 serving them himself with a grace to which we can not do justice4 ,much as we find to condemn in tropical society1 we can not forget the kindness of these simple-hearted people4 ,though we may portray1 in the coming pages1 many faults and failings according to a ,new ,york standard1 we wish it to be understood that there is another side to the picture2 that there are virtues on the ,andes to which the ,north is well-nigh a stranger4 ,how many times 7says an ,american resident of ten years7 ,i have arrived at a miserable hut in the heart of the mountains1 tired and hungry1 after traveling all day without any other companion than the arriero1 to receive a warm-hearted welcome1 the best1 perhaps the only chair or hammock offered to me1 the fattest chicken in the yard killed on my account1 and more than once they have compelled me by force to take the only good bed1 because ,i must be tired1 and should have a good night's rest4 ,a man may travel from one end of the ,andes to the other1 depending altogether on the good people he meets4 ,at ,bodegas travelers take to mules or horses for the mountains1 hiring one set for ,guaranda and another at that village for ,quito2 muleteers seldom allow their animals to pass from one altitude to the other4 ,these arrieros1 or muleteers1 form a very important class in ,ecuador4 ,their little caravans are the only baggage and express trains in the republic2 there is not a single regularly established public conveyance in the land4 ,the arrieros and their servants 7peons7 are ,indians or half-breeds4 ,they wear a straw or felt hat1 a poncho striped like an ,arab's blanket1 and cotton breeches ending at the knees4 ,for food they carry a bag of parched corn1 another bag of roasted barley-meal 7mashka71 and a few red peppers4 ,the beasts are thin1 decrepit jades1 which threaten to give out the first day2 yet they must carry you halfway up the ,andes4 ,the distance to the capital is nearly two hundred miles4 ,the time required is usually eight or nine days2 but officials often travel it in four4 ,illustration3 ,equipped for the ,andes4 ,we left ,bodegas at noon4 ,it was impossible to start the muleteer a moment earlier1 though he had promised to be ready at seven4 ,patience is a necessary qualification in a ,south ,american traveler4 ,in our company were a ,jesuit priest1 with three attendants1 going to ,riobamba1 and a young ,quito merchant1 with his mother--the mother of only twenty-five children4 ,this merchant had traveled in the ,united ,states1 and could not help contrasting the thrift and enterprise of our country with the beggary and laziness of his own1 adding1 with a show of sincerity1 ,i am sorry ,i have ,spanish blood in my veins4 ,the suburbs of ,bodegas reminded us of the outskirts of ,cairo2 but the road soon entered a broad savannah instead of a sandy desert4 ,at #c ,p4,m4 we passed through ,la ,mona1 a village of twenty-five bamboo huts1 all on stilts1 for in the rainy season the whole town is under water4 ,signs of indolence and neglect were every where visible4 ,idle men1 with an uncertain mixture of ,european1 ,negro1 and ,indian blood2 sad-looking ,quichua women1 carrying a naked infant or a red water-jar on the back2 black hogs and lean poultry wandering at will into the houses--such is the picture of the motley life in the inland villages4 ,strange was the contrast between human poverty and natural wealth4 ,we were on the borders of a virgin forest1 and the overpowering beauty of the vegetation soon erased all memory of the squalor and lifelessness of ,la ,mona4 ,our road--a mere path1 suddenly entered this seemingly impenetrable forest1 where the branches crossed overhead1 producing a delightful shade4 ,the curious forms of tropical life were all attractive to one who had recently rambled over the comparatively bleak hills of ,new ,england4 ,delight is a weak term to express the feelings of a naturalist who for the first time wanders in a ,south ,american forest4 ,the superb banana1 the great charm of equatorial vegetation1 tossed out luxuriantly its glossy green leaves1 eight feet in length2 the slender but graceful bamboo shot heavenward1 straight as an arrow2 and many species of palm bore aloft their feathery heads1 inexpressibly light and elegant4 ,on the branches of the independent trees sat tufts of parasites1 many of them orchids1 which are here epiphytal2 and countless creeping plants1 whose long flexible stems entwined snake-like around the trunks1 or formed gigantic loops and coils among the limbs4 ,beneath this world of foliage above1 thick beds of mimos covered the ground1 and a boundless variety of ferns attracted the eye by their beautiful patterns4#aa ,it is easy to specify the individual objects of admiration in these grand scenes1 but it is not possible to give an adequate idea of the higher feelings of wonder1 astonishment1 and devotion which fill and elevate the mind4 ,this road to the ,andes is a paradise to the contemplative man4 ,there is something in a tropical forest 7says ,bates7 akin to the ocean in its effects on the mind4 ,man feels so completely his insignificance1 and the vastness of nature4 ,the ,german traveler ,burmeister observes that the contemplation of a ,brazilian forest produced on him a painful impression1 on account of the vegetation displaying a spirit of restless selfishness1 eager emulation1 and craftiness4 ,he thought the softness1 earnestness1 and repose of ,european woodland scenery were far more pleasing1 and that these formed one of the causes of the superior moral character of ,european nations4 ,live and let live is certainly not the maxim taught in these tropical forests1 and it is equally clear that selfishness is not wanting among the people4 ,here1 in view of so much competition among organized beings1 is the spot to study ,darwin's ,origin of ,species4 ,we have thought that the vegetation under the equator was a fitter emblem of the human world than the forests of our temperate zone4 ,there is here no set time for decay and death1 but we stand amid the living and the dead2 flowers and leaves are falling1 while fresh ones are budding into life4 ,then1 too1 the numerous parasitic plants1 making use of their neighbors as instruments for their own advancement1 not inaptly represent a certain human class4 ,footnote #aa3 ,ferns constitute one sixth of the flora of ,south ,america2 ,spruce counted #adj species within the space of three square miles4 ,their limits of growth are #ejj and #gjjj feet above the sea4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,our ,tambo4--,ascending the ,andes4--,camino ,real4--,magnificent ,views4--,guaranda4--,cinchona4--,the ,summit4--,chimborazo4--,over the ,andes4--,chuquipoyo the ,wretched4--,ambato4--,a ,stupid ,city4--,cotopaxi4--,the ,vale of ,machachi4--,arrival at ,quito4 ,we reached ,savaneta at #e ,p4,m4 ,this little village of hardly twenty houses becomes the ,bodegas1 or place of deposit for the mountains six months in the year1 for in the invierno the roads are flooded1 and canoes take the place of mules from ,savaneta to ,babahoyo4 ,even in the dry season the dampness of this wilderness is so great that the traveler's sugar and chocolate are melted into one1 and envelopes seal themselves4 ,we put up at a tambo1 or wayside inn1 a simple two-storied bamboo hovel1 thatched with plantain leaves without and plastered with cobwebs within1 yet a palace compared with what sheltered us afterward4 ,the only habitable part was the second story1 which was reached by a couple of notched bamboo sticks4 ,a hammock1 two earthen kettles1 two plates1 and a few calabashes constituted the household furniture4 ,the dormitory was well ventilated1 for two sides were open4 ,our lodging1 however1 cost us nothing2 travelers only pay for yerba for their beasts4 ,though this has been the royal road to ,quito for three centuries1 there is but one posada between ,guayaquil and ,ambato1 a distance of one hundred and fifty miles2 travelers must carry their own bedding and provisions4 ,illustration3 ,ascending the ,andes4 ,leaving ,savaneta at dawn1 and breakfasting at a wayside hut owned by an old negro1 we struck about noon the ,rio ,charriguajaco1 dashing down the mountains in hot haste for the ,guayas4 ,it was refreshing to look upon living waters for the first time since leaving the hills of our native country4 ,fording this stream we know not how many times1 and winding through the dense forest in narrow paths often blockaded by laden donkeys that doggedly disputed the passage1 we soon found ourselves slowly creeping up the ,andes4 ,we frequently met mountaineers on their way to ,bodegas with loads of potatoes1 peas1 barley1 fowls1 eggs1 etc4 ,they are generally accompanied by their wives or daughters1 who ride like the men1 but with the knees tucked up higher4 ,on the slippery tracks which traverse this western slope1 bulls are often used as beasts of burden1 the cloven hoofs enabling them to descend with great security4 ,but mules are better than horses or asses4 ,that a hybrid 7muses ,darwin7 should possess more reason1 memory1 obstinacy1 social affection1 powers of muscular endurance1 and length of life than either of its parents1 seems to indicate that art has here outdone nature4 ,toward evening the ascent became rapid and the road horrible beyond conception1 growing narrower and rougher as we advanced4 ,indeed1 our way had long since ceased to be a road4 ,in the dense forest1 where sunshine never comes1 rocks1 mud1 and fallen trees in rapid alternation macadamize the path1 save where it turns up the bed of a babbling brook4 ,in the comparatively level tracts1 the equable step of the beasts has worn the soil into deep transverse ridges1 called camellones1 from their resemblance to the humps on a camel's back4 ,in the precipitous parts the road is only a gully worn by the transit of men and beasts for ages1 aided by torrents of water in the rainy season4 ,as we ascend1 this changes to a rocky staircase1 so strait that one must throw up his legs to save them from being crushed1 and so steep that horse and rider run the risk of turning a somersault4 ,it is fearful to meet in a narrow defile1 or where the road winds around the edge of a precipice1 a drove of reckless donkeys and mules descending the mountain1 urged on by the cries and lashes of the muleteers behind4 ,yet this has been the highway of ,ecuadorian commerce for three hundred years4 ,in vain we tried to reach the little village of ,camino ,real on the crest of the ridge2 but the night was advancing rapidly1 and crawling up such a road by starlight was not a little dangerous4 ,so we put up at a miserable tambo1 ,pogyos by name4 ,it was a mud hut of the rudest kind1 windowless and unfloored2 very clean1 if it had been left to nature1 but man and beast had rendered it intolerably filthy4 ,our hostess1 a ,quichua woman1 with tattered garments1 and hair disheveled and standing up as if electrified1 set a kettle on three stones1 and1 making a fire under it1 prepared for us a calabash of chicken and locro4 ,locro1 the national dish in the mountains1 is in plain ,english simply potato soup4 ,sitting on the ground1 we partook of this refreshment by the aid of fingers and wooden spoons1 enticing our appetites by the reflection that potato soup would support life4 ,the unkempt ,indian by our side1 grinning in conscious pride over her successful cookery1 did not aid us in this matter4 ,fire is used in ,ecuador solely for culinary purposes1 not for warmth4 ,it is made at no particular spot on the mud floor1 and there is no particular orifice for the exit of the smoke save the chinks in the wall4 ,there is not a chimney in the whole republic4 ,as the spare room in the establishment belonged to the women1 we gentlemen slept on the ground outside1 or on beds made of round poles4 ,the night was piercingly cold4 ,the wished-for morning came at last1 and long before the sun looked over the mountains we were on our march4 ,it was the same terrible road1 running zigzag1 or quingo fashion1 up to ,camino ,real1 where it was suddenly converted into a royal highway4 ,we were now fairly out of the swamps of the lowlands1 and1 though under the equator1 out of the tropics too4 ,the fresh mountain breeze and the chilly mists announced a change of climate4#ab ,fevers and dysenteries1 snakes and musquitoes1 the plantain and the palm1 we had left behind4 ,camino ,real is a huddle of eight or ten dwellings perched on the summit of a sierra a thousand feet higher than the top of ,mount ,washington4 ,the views from this stand-point compensate for all past troubles4 ,the wild chaos of mountains on every side1 broken by profound ravines1 the heaps of ruins piled up during the lapse of geologic ages1 the intense azure of the sky1 and the kingly condor majestically wheeling around the still higher pinnacles1 make up a picture rarely to be seen4 ,westward1 the mountains tumble down into hills and spread out into plains1 which1 in the far distant horizon1 dip into the great ,pacific4 ,the setting sun turns the ocean into a sheet of liquid fire4 ,long columns of purple light shoot up to the zenith1 and as the last point of the sun sinks beneath the horizon1 the stars rush out in full splendor2 for at the equator day gives place to night with only an hour and twenty minutes of twilight4 ,the mountains are ,alpine1 yet grander than the ,alps2 not so ragged as the granite peaks of ,switzerland1 but with rounder heads4 ,the prospect down this occidental slope is diversified by deep valleys1 lands-lides1 and flowering trees4 ,magnificent are the views eastward1 ,where ,andes1 giant of the western star1 ,looks from his throne of clouds o'er half the world4 ,footnote #ab3 ,the altitude of #gjjj feet is the usual limit of the rain-line on the west slope of the ,andes4 ,the condensation which produces rain takes place at the equator two or three times higher than in our latitude4 ,the majestic dome of ,chimborazo was entirely uncovered of clouds1 and presented a most splendid spectacle4 ,there it stood1 its snow-white summit1 unsullied by the foot of man1 towering up twice as high as ,etna4 ,for many years it received the homage of the world as the highest point in ,america2 but now the ,aconcagua of ,chile claims the palm4 ,still1 what a panorama from the top of ,chimborazo1 could one reach it1 for the eye would command ten thousand square miles6 ,our road gently winds down the sierra1 giving us at every turn sublime ideas of what nature can do in tossing up the thin crust of our globe4 ,but sublimity is at a discount here--there is too much of it4 ,suddenly we are looking down into the enchanting valley of ,chimbo4 ,this romantic and secluded spot is one of those forgotten corners of the earth which1 barricaded against the march of civilization by almost impassable mountains1 and inhabited by a thriftless race1 has been left far behind in the progress of mankind4 ,distance lends enchantment to the view4 ,we are reminded of the pastoral vales of ,new ,england4 ,wheat takes the place of the sugar-cane1 barley of cacao1 potatoes of plantains1 and turnips of oranges4 ,bamboo sheds have given way to neatly whitewashed villages1 and the fields are fenced with rows of aloe4 ,but1 drawing nearer1 we find the habitations are in reality miserable mud hovels1 without windows1 and tenanted by vermin and ragged poverty4 ,there are herds of cattle and fields of grain2 yet we shall not find a quart of milk or a loaf of bread for sale4 ,the descent into the valley is very precipitous1 and1 after a rain1 alarmingly slippery4 ,mules1 drawing their legs together1 slide down with startling velocity1 and follow the windings with marvelous dexterity4 ,we arrived at ,guaranda at #e ,p4,m4 on the third day after leaving ,bodegas4 ,this is a desolate town of two thousand souls1 dwelling in low dilapidated huts made of the most common building material in the ,andes--adobe1 or sun-dried blocks of mud mingled with straw4#ac ,footnote #ac3 ,from adoub1 an ,egyptian word still used by the ,copts2 carried by the ,moors to ,spain1 thence to ,america2 and from ,america the word has gone to the ,sandwich ,islands4 ,the streets are rudely paved1 and pitch to the centre1 to form an aqueduct1 like the streets of old ,sychar4 ,the inhabitants are in happy ignorance of the outside world4 ,they pass the day without a thought of work1 standing on the ,plaza1 or in front of some public office1 staring vacantly into space1 or gossiping4 ,a cockfight will soonest rouse them from their lethargy4 ,they seem to have no purpose in life but to keep warm under their ponchos and to eat when they are hungry4 ,guaranda is a healthy locality1 lying in a deep valley on the west bank of the ,chimbo1 at an elevation1 according to our barometer1 of #hhdj feet1 and having a mean temperature slightly less than that of ,quito4 ,it is a place of importance1 inasmuch as it is the resting-place before ascending or after descending the still loftier ranges1 and much more because it is the capital of the region which yields the invaluable cinchona1 or ,peruvian bark4#ad ,this tree is indigenous to the ,andes1 where it is found on the western slope between the altitudes of two thousand and nine thousand feet1 the species richest in alkaloids occupying the higher elevations1 where the air is moist4 ,dr4 ,weddell enumerates twenty-one species1 seven of which are now found in ,ecuador1 but the only one of value is the the ,c4 succirubra 7the calisaya has run out71 and this is now nearly extinct1 as the trees have been destroyed to obtain the bark4 ,this species is a beautiful tree1 having large1 broadly oval1 deep green1 shining leaves1 white1 fragrant flowers1 and red bark1 and sometimes1 though rarely1 attains the height of sixty feet4 ,a tree five feet in circumference will yield fifteen hundred pounds of green bark1 or eight hundred of the dry4 ,the roots contain the most alkaloid1 though the branches are usually barked for commerce4 ,the true cinchona barks1 containing quinine1 quinidine1 and cinchonine1 are distinguished from the false by their splintery-fibrous texture1 the latter being pre-eminently corky4 ,the cascarilleros begin to hunt for bark in ,august4 ,dr4 ,taylor1 of ,riobamba1 found one tree which gave #cfjj worth of quinine4 ,the general yield is from three to five pounds to a quintal of bark4 ,the tree has been successfully transplanted to the ,united ,states1 and particularly to ,india1 where there are now over a million of plants4 ,it was introduced into ,india by ,markham in #ahfa4 ,the bark is said to be stronger than that from ,ecuador1 yielding twice as much alkaloid1 or eleven per cent4 ,the quinine of commerce will doubtless come hereafter from the slopes of the ,himalayas instead of the ,andes4 ,in #ahfg only five thousand pounds of bark were exported from ,guayaquil4 ,the ,indians use the bark of another tree1 the ,maravilla1 which is said to yield a much stronger alkaloid than cinchona4 ,it grows near ,pallatanga4 ,footnote #ad3 ,this celebrated febrifuge was first taken to ,europe about the middle of the seventeenth century1 and was named after the ,countess of ,chinchon1 who had been cured of intermittent fever at ,lima4 ,afterward1 when ,cardinal de ,lugo spread the knowledge of the remedy through ,france1 and recommended it to ,cardinal ,mazarin1 it received the name of ,jesuits' ,bark4 ,the ,french chemists1 ,pelletier and ,caverton1 discovered quinine in #ahbj4 ,we left ,guaranda at #e ,a4,m4 by the light of ,venus and ,orion1 having exchanged our horses for the sure-footed mule4 ,it was a romantic ride4 ,from a neighboring stand-point ,church took one of his celebrated views of ,the ,heart of the ,andes4 ,but the road1 as aforetime1 was a mere furrow1 made and kept by the tread of beasts4 ,for a long distance the track runs over the projecting and jagged edges of steeply-inclined strata of slate1 which nobody has had the energy to smooth down4 ,at many places on the road side were human skulls1 set in niches in the bank1 telling tales of suffering in their ghastly silence2 while here and there a narrow passage was blocked up by the skeleton or carcass of a beast that had borne its last burden4 ,at nine o'clock we came out on a narrow1 grassy ridge called the ,ensillada1 or ,saddleback1 where there were three straw huts1 with roofs resting on the ground1 and there we breakfasted on locro4 ,during our stay the ,indians killed a pig1 and before the creature was fairly dead dry grass was heaped upon it and set on fire4 ,this is the ordinary method of removing the bristles4 ,still ascending1 we lose sight of the valley of the ,chimbo1 and find ourselves in a wilderness of crags and treeless mountains clothed with the long1 dreary-looking paramo grass called paja4 ,but we are face to face with the monarch of the ,andes1 and we shall have its company the rest of the day4 ,the snowy dome is flooded with the golden light of heaven2 delicate clouds of softest hues float around its breast2 while1 far below1 its feet are wrapped in the baser mists of earth4 ,we attained the summit of the pass at #aa ,a4,m4 ,all travelers strive to reach it early in the morning1 for in the afternoon it is swept by violent winds which render it uncomfortable1 if not dangerous4 ,this part of the road is called the ,arenal1 from the sand and gravel which cover it4 ,it is about a league in length1 and crosses the side of ,chimborazo at an elevation of more than fourteen thousand feet4 ,chimborazo stands on the left of the traveler4 ,how tantalizing its summit6 ,it appears so easy of access2 and yet many a valiant philosopher1 from ,humboldt down1 has panted for the glory and failed4 ,the depth of the snow and numerous precipices are the chief obstacles2 but the excessively rarefied air is another hinderance4 ,even in crossing the ,arenal1 a native of the lowlands complains of violent headache1 a propensity to vomit1 and a difficulty of breathing4 ,the ,arenal is often swept by snow-storms2 and history has it that some of the ,spanish conquerors were here frozen to death4 ,the pale yellow gravel is considered by some geologists as the moraine of a glacier4 ,it is spread out like a broad gravel walk1 so that1 without exaggeration1 one of the best roads in ,ecuador has been made by ,nature's hand on the crest of the ,andes4 ,it was interesting to trace the different hypsometrical zones by the change of vegetation from ,bodegas to this lofty spot4 ,the laws of the decrease of heat are plainly written on the rapid slopes of the ,cordilleras4 ,on the hot1 steaming lowlands of the coast reign bananas and palms4 ,as these thin out1 tree-ferns take their place4 ,losing these1 we found the cinchona bedewed by the cool clouds of ,guaranda2 and last of all1 among the trees1 the polylepis4 ,the twisted1 gnarled trunk of this tree1 as well as its size and silvery foliage1 reminded us of the olive1 but the bark resembles that of the birch4 ,it reaches the greatest elevation of any tree on the globe4 ,then followed shrubby fuchsia1 calceolaria1 eupatoria1 and red and purple gentians2 around and on the ,arenal1 a uniform mantle of monocotyledonous plants1 with scattered tufts of valeriana1 viola1 and geranium1 all with rigid leaves in the characteristic rosettes of super-alpine vegetation2 and on the porphyritic and trachytic sides of ,chimborazo1 lichens alone4 ,snow then covers the last effort of vegetable life4#ae ,the change in the architecture of the houses indicated1 likewise1 a change of altitude4 ,the open bamboo huts1 shingled with banana leaves1 were followed by warmer adobe houses1 and these1 in turn1 by the straw hovels of the mountain-top1 made entirely of the long1 wiry grass of the paramos4 ,footnote #ae3 ,according to ,sir ,j4 ,hooker1 among the flowers which adorn the slopes of the ,himalayas1 rhododendrons occupy the most prominent place1 and primroses next4 ,there are no orchids1 neither red gentians1 but blue4 ,organic life ceases #cjjj feet lower than on the ,andes2 yet it is affirmed that flowering plants occur at the height of #ah1dfj feet1 which is equivalent to the summit of ,chimborazo in point of temperature6 ,the polylepis 7,p4 racemosa7 is one of the ,sanguisorbace2 in ,quichua it is ,sachaquinoa4 ,leaving the ,arenal1 we rapidly descended by the usual style of road--stone stairs4 ,but down we went1 as all the goods for ,quito1 the grand capital1 have done since the ,spanish ,conquest4 ,the old road from ,beirt to ,damascus is royal in comparison4 ,the general aspect of the eastern slope is that of a gray1 barren waste1 overgrown with paja2 but now and then we crossed deep gulleys1 whose sides were lined with mosses and sprinkled with calceolarias1 lupines1 etc4 ,in our descent we had before us the magnificent ,valley of ,quito1 and beyond it the eastern ,cordillera4 ,below us was ,riobamba1 and far away to the right the deep gorge of the ,pastassa4 ,nevertheless1 this is one of the loneliest rides earth can furnish4 ,not a tree nor human habitation is in sight4 ,icy rivulets and mule-trains are the only moving objects on this melancholy heath4 ,even ,drake's ,plantation ,bitters1 painted on the volcanic cliffs of ,chimborazo1 would be a relief4 ,at last we reached our rude accommodations for the night4 ,it was a solitary mud tambo1 glorying in the euphonious name of ,chuquipoyo4 ,the court-yard was a sea of mud and manure1 for this is the halting-place for all the caravans between ,quito and the coast4 ,our room was a horrid hole1 dark1 dirty1 damp1 and cold1 without a window or a fire4 ,there was one old rickety bedstead1 but as that belonged to the lady in our party1 the rest betook themselves to benches1 table1 and floor4 ,we filled our stomachs with an unpalatable potato soup containing cheese and eggs1 and laid down--to wait for the morning4 ,grass is the only fuel here2 but this is not the chief reason why it is so difficult to make good tea or cook potatoes at this wretched tambo4 ,water boils at #aij1 or before it is fairly hot3 it is well the potatoes are small4 ,the muleteers slept with their beasts outside1 though the night was fearfully cold1 for ,chuquipoyo lies on the frigid side of ,chimborazo1 at an elevation of over twelve thousand feet above the sea4 ,as ,johnson said to ,boswell1 ,this is a dolorous place4 ,gladly we left this cheerless tambo1 though a cold1 heavy mist was falling as we rode northward1 over the seemingly endless paramo of ,sanancajas4 ,here1 as throughout the highlands of ,ecuador1 ditches are used for fences2 so that1 should the traveler wander from the path1 he finds himself stopped by an impassable gulf4 ,in two hours and a half we reached ,mocha1 a lifeless pueblo under the shadow of ,carguairazo4 ,slowly descending from our high altitude1 we gradually entered a more congenial climate--the zone of wheat and barley1 till1 finally1 signs of an eternal spring were all around us--ripening corn on one side1 and blossoming peas on the other4 ,late in the afternoon the road led us through a sandy1 sterile tract1 till suddenly we came in sight of ,ambato1 beautifully situated in a deep ravine1 eight thousand five hundred and fifty feet above the ,pacific4 ,the city ranks next to ,quito in beauty4 ,it is certainly an oasis1 the green foliage of its numerous shade-trees and orchards contrasting with the barren hills around4 ,it is two degrees warmer than ,quito1 and is famous for its fruit and fine climate4 ,it is the ,lynn of ,ecuador1 the chief articles of manufacture being boots and shoes--cheap1 but of poor quality4 ,it was destroyed by an earthquake in #afih4 ,the houses are built of sun-dried brick1 and whitewashed4 ,the streets1 with gutters in the centre1 are at right angles1 and paved1 and adorned with numerous cypress-looking trees1 called sauce1 a species of willow4 ,the ,plaza1 which contains a useful if not ornamental fountain1 presents a lively scene on ,sunday1 the great market-day4 ,the inn is a fair specimen of a public house in ,spanish ,america4 ,around the court-yard1 where the beasts are fed1 are three or four rooms to let4 ,they are ventilated only when opened for travelers4 ,the floor is of brick1 but alive with fleas2 the walls are plastered1 but veiled with cobwebs4 ,the furniture1 of primitive make and covered with dust1 consists of a chair or two1 a table1 and a bed of boards covered with a thin straw mat4 ,there is not a hotel in ,ecuador where sheets and towels are furnished4 ,the landlords are seldom seen2 the entire management of the concern is left to a slovenly ,indian boy1 who is both cook and hostler4 ,no amount of bribery will secure a meal in less than two hours4 ,ten years ago there was not a posada in the country2 now there is entertainment for man and beast at ,guayaquil1 ,guaranda1 ,mocha1 ,ambato1 ,tacunga1 ,machachi1 and ,quito4 ,riobamba has a billiard saloon1 but no inn4 ,leaving ,ambato1 we breakfasted at ,cunchebamba1 an ,indian village of half a dozen straw huts4 ,thence the road for a long distance winds through vast deposits of volcanic dbris1 the only sign of vegetation being hedges of aloe and cactus4 ,arid hills and dreary plains1 covered with plutonic rocks and pumice dust1 tell us we are approaching the most terrible volcano on the earth4 ,crossing the sources of the ,pastassa1 we entered ,latacunga1#af situated on a beautiful plain at the foot of ,cotopaxi1 seven hundred feet higher than ,ambato4 ,its average temperature is #ei4 ,the population1 chiefly ,indians1 numbers about fifteen thousand4 ,it is the dullest city in ,ecuador1 without the show of enterprise or business4 ,not even grass grows in the streets--the usual sign of life in the ,spanish towns4 ,it is also one of the filthiest2 and though it has been many times thoroughly shaken by earthquakes1 and buried under showers of volcanic dust1 it is still the paradise of fleas1 which have survived every revolution4 ,ida ,pfeiffer says that1 after a night's rest in ,latacunga1 she awoke with her skin marked all over with red spots1 as if from an eruptive disease4 ,we can certify that we have been tattoed without the night's rest4 ,the town has a most stupid and forlorn aspect4 ,half of it is in ruins4 ,it was four times destroyed between #afih and #agig4 ,in #agef the ,jesuit church was thrown down1 though its walls were five feet thick4 ,the houses are of one story1 and built of pumice1 widely different from the palaces and temples which are said to have stood here in the palmy days of the ,incas4 ,cotopaxi stands threateningly near1 and its rumbling thunder is the source of constant alarm4 ,footnote #af3 ,this is shortened in parlance to ,tacunga4 ,the full name1 according to ,la ,condamine1 is ,llacta-cunga1 llacta meaning country1 and cunga1 neck4 ,from ,latacunga to ,quito there is a very fine carriage road1 the result of one man's administration--,seor ,g4 ,garcia ,moreno4 ,for many miles it passes over an uncultivated plateau1 strewn with volcanic fragments4 ,the farms are confined to the slopes of the ,cordilleras1 and1 as every where else1 the tumbling haciendas indicate the increasing poverty of the owner4 ,superstition and indolence go hand in hand4 ,on a great rock rising out of the sandy plain they show a print of the foot of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 who alighted here on a visit--surely to the volcanoes1 as it was long before the red man had found this valley4 ,abreast of ,cotopaxi the road cuts through high hills of fine pumice inter-stratified with black earth1 and rapidly ascends till it reaches ,tiupullo1 eleven thousand five hundred feet above the sea4 ,this high ridge1#ag stretching across the valley from ,cotopaxi to ,iliniza1 is a part of the great water-shed of the continent--the waters on the southern slope flowing through the ,pastassa and ,amazon to the ,atlantic1 those on the north finding their way to the ,pacific by the ,rio ,esmeraldas4 ,at this bleak place we breakfasted on punch and guinea-pig4 ,footnote #ag3 ,sometimes called ,chisinche4 ,as soon as we began to descend1 the glittering cone of ,cotopaxi1 and the gloomy plain it has so often devastated1 passed out of view1 and before us was a green valley exceedingly rich and well cultivated1 girt by a wall of mountains1 the towers of which were the peaks of ,corazon and ,rumiagui4 ,loathsome lepers by the wayside alone disturbed the pleasing impression4 ,three hours more of travel brought us to the straggling village of ,machachi1 standing in the centre of the beautiful plain1 at an altitude of nine thousand nine hundred feet4 ,nature designed this spot for a home of plenty and comfort1 but the habitations of the wretched proprietors are windowless adobe hovels1 thatched with dried grass1 and notorious for their filth4 ,we must needs make one more ascent1 for the ridge of ,tambillo hides the goal of our journey4 ,the moment we reached the summit1 views unparalleled in the ,andes or any where else met our astonished vision whithersoever we looked4 ,far away to the south stretched the two ,cordilleras1 till they were lost in the mist which enshrouded ,chimborazo and ,tunguragua4 ,turning to the north1 we beheld the city of ,quito at our feet1 and ,pichincha and ,antisana standing like gallant sentinels on either side of the proud capital4 ,beautiful were the towering mountains1 and almost as delightful now are the memories of that hour4 ,a broad1 well-traveled road1 gentlemen on horseback clad in rich ponchos1 droves of ,indians bowed under their heavy burdens1 and long lines of laden donkeys hurrying to and fro1 indicate our approach to a great city4 ,winding with the road through green pastures and fields of ripening grain1 and crossing the ,machngara by an elegant bridge1 we enter the city of the ,incas4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,early ,history of ,quito4--,its ,splendor under the ,incas4--,crushed by ,spain4--,dying now4--,situation4--,altitude4--,streets4 --,buildings4 ,quito is better known than ,ecuador4 ,its primeval history1 however1 is lost in obscurity4 ,in the language of ,prescott1 the mists of fable have settled as darkly round its history as round that of any nation1 ancient or modern1 in the ,old ,world4 ,founded1 nobody knows when1 by the kings of the ,quitus1 it was conquered about the year #ajjj by a more civilized race1 the ,cara nation1 who added to it by conquest and alliance4 ,the fame of the region excited the cupidity of the ,incas of ,peru1 and during the reign of ,cacha 7#adge71 ,huayna-,capac the ,great moved his army from ,cuzco1 and by the celebrated battle of ,hatuntaqui1 in which ,cacha was killed1 ,quito was added to the realm of the ,incas4 ,huayna-,capac made ,quito his residence1 and reigned there thirty-eight years--the most brilliant epoch in the annals of the city4 ,at his death his kingdom was divided1 one son1 ,atahuallpa1#ah reigning in ,quito1 and ,huascar at ,cuzco4 ,civil war ensued1 in which the latter was defeated1 and ,atahuallpa was chosen ,inca of the whole empire1 #aecb4 ,during this war ,pizarro arrived at ,tumbez4 ,every body knows what followed4 ,strangled at ,caxamarca1 the body of ,atahuallpa was carried to ,quito1 the city of his birth1 in compliance with his dying wish1 and buried there with imposing obsequies4 ,refounded by ,benalcazar in #aecd1 ,quito was created an imperial city by ,charles ,v4 seven years later4 ,it formed part of ,peru till #agaj2 then of ,santa ,f till #agbb2 and again of ,peru till its independence4 ,the power of ,spain in ,south ,america was destroyed at the battle of ,ayacucho1 ,dec4 #i1 #ahbd4 ,in #ahcj ,venezuela separated from ,colombia1 and ,ecuador followed the same year4 ,the first ,congress was held in ,riobamba2 but ,quito has ever since been the political focus4 ,the first president was ,general ,flores4 ,footnote #ah3 ,the son of his ,quito love4 ,the name was first written ,atauhuallpa1 meaning fortunate in war2 after the fratricide1 he was called ,atahuallpa1 or game-cock4 ,he was the ,boabdil of this occidental ,granada4 ,he is called traitor by ,peruvian writers1 and is not admitted by them into the list of their ,incas4 ,under the diadem of the ,incas1 ,quito assumed a magnificence which it never saw before and has not displayed since4 ,it was the worthy metropolis of a vast empire stretching from the equator to the desert of ,atacama1 and walled in by the grandest group of mountains in the world4 ,on this lofty site1 which amid the ,alps would be buried in an avalanche of snow1 but within the tropics enjoys an eternal spring1 palaces more beautiful than the ,alhambra were erected1 glittering with the gold and emerald of the ,andes4 ,but all this splendor passed away with the sceptre of ,atahuallpa4 ,where the pavilion of the ,inca stood is now a gloomy convent1 and a wheat-field takes the place of the ,temple of the ,sun4 ,the colonial history of this favored spot is as lifeless as the history of ,sahara4 ,not a single event occurred of which even ,spain can be proud2 not a monument was raised which reflects any credit upon the mother country4 ,every thing was prescribed by law1 and all law emanated from a tribunal five thousand miles distant4 ,there was no relation of private life with which the government did not interfere3 what the colonist should plant and what trade he should follow2 where he should buy and where he should sell2 how much he should import and export2 and where and when he should marry1 were regulated by the ,council of the ,indies and the ,inquisition4 ,in the words of a native writer1 ,the great majority of the people knew nothing of sciences1 events1 or men4 ,their religion consisted of outward observances1 and an imperfect knowledge of the papal bulls2 their morality1 in asceticism and devotion to their king2 their philosophy1 in the subtleties of ,aristotle2 their history1 in the history of the mother country2 their geography1 in the maps of ,spanish ,america and of ,spain2 their press1 in what sufficed to print bill-heads and blank forms2 their commerce1 in an insignificant coasting trade2 their ambition and highest aspirations1 in titles of nobility2 their amusements1 in bull-fights4 ,the arrival of a mail was an event of great moment1 and with ringing of bells was received the cajon de ,espaa which announced the health of the sovereigns4 ,thus1 while ,europe was passing through the stormy times of ,louis ,,xiv42 while the philosophical writings of the illustrious men of those times found their way into the remotest corners of the globe2 while the ,english colonies of ,north ,america conquered their independence2 while the ,old ,world was drenched in blood to propagate the ideas which the ,french ,revolution had proclaimed1 the ,presidency of ,quito1 walled in by its immense cordilleras and the ocean1 and ruled by monkish ignorance and bigotry1 knew as little of men and events as we now know of men and events in the moon4#ai ,footnote #ai3 ,geografia de la ,repblica del ,ecuador1 por ,dr4 ,villavicencio4 ,this work abounds with erroneous and exaggerated statements1 but it is nevertheless a valuable contribution to ,ecuadorian literature4 ,from an iron despotism which existed for three centuries1 ,quito passed to a state of unbridled licentiousness4 ,without any political experience whatever1 the people attempted to lay the foundation of a new system of government and society4 ,with head and hearts perverted by monkish superstition and ,spanish tyranny1 yet set on fire by the ,french ,revolution1 what did they know of liberty6 ,endless civil wars have followed independence4 ,political ambition1 says a late ,united ,states minister1 personal jealousies1 impracticable theories1 official venality1 reckless disregard of individual rights and legal obligations1 foolish meddling and empirical legislation1 and an absolute want of political morality1 form the principal features of their republican history4#bj ,to-day they tread on the dust of an ancient race whose government was in every respect a most complete contrast to their own4 ,footnote #bj3 ,four ,years among ,spanish ,americans1 by ,hon4 ,f4 ,hassaurek3 a truthful work1 to which we refer the reader for details1 especially concerning ,ecuadorian life and manners4 ,at the foot of volcanic ,pichincha1 only five hours' travel from its smoking crater1 lies the city above the clouds1 the navel of the world1 magnificent ,quito4 ,on the north is the plain of ,rumibamba1 the battle-field where ,gonzalo ,pizarro routed the first viceroy of ,peru1 and the scene1 two centuries later1 of the nobler achievements of ,la ,condamine1 which made it the classic ground of astronomy4 ,on the southern edge of the city rises ,panecillo1 reminding one of ,mount ,tabor by its symmetrical form1 and over-looking the beautiful and well-watered plain of ,turubamba4 ,on the east flows the ,rio ,machngara1 and just beyond it stand the ,puengasi hills hiding the ,chillo valley1 while the weary sun goes early to rest behind the towering peaks of ,pichincha4 ,so encircled is this sequestered spot1 the traveler1 approaching by the ,guayaquil road1 sees only a part of it1 and is disappointed2 and even when standing on ,panecillo1 with the entire city spread out before him1 he is not wholly satisfied4 ,buried between treeless1 sombre sierras1 and isolated from the rest of the world by impassable roads and gigantic ,cordilleras1 ,quito appears to us of the commercial nineteenth century as useless as the old feudal towns perched on the mountains of ,middle ,europe4 ,not a chimney rises above the red-tiled roofs1 telling of homely hearths beneath4 ,no busy hum greets the ear2 there are bugles instead of spindles1 and jingling church bells in place of rattling carriages4 ,the wandering eye does not look for a railroad or a telegraph1 for even the highways1 such as they are1 seem deserted1 and1 save the music made for soldiers and saints1 all is silent4 ,the very mountains1 too1 with their snow-mantled heads1 and their sides scarred by volcanic eruptions and ruptured by earthquake shocks1 have a melancholy look4 ,in the words of a great artist1 ,they look like a world from which not only the human1 but the spiritual presences had perished1 and the last of the archangels1 building the great ,andes for their monuments1 had laid themselves down to eternal rest1 each in his snow-white shroud4 ,but let us enter4 ,passing the ruined chapel ,del ,seor del buen pasaje1 and crossing by a substantial stone bridge the little ,machngara hastening to pay tribute to the ,pacific1 we leave behind us the dirty1 dilapidated suburbs of the capital4 ,soon we cross another bridge--the ,bridge of ,buzzards--spanning a deep ravine1 and gallop through the ,plaza de ,santo ,domingo4 ,very different are the sights and sounds from the stir and style of ,central ,park4 ,the scene has a semi-oriental cast--half ,indian1 half ,egyptian1 as if this were the confluence of the ,maraon and ,nile4 ,groups of men--not crowds1 for there is plenty of elbow-room in ,ecuador--in gay ponchos stand chatting in front of little shops1 or lean against the wall to enjoy the sunshine2 beggars in rags or sackcloth stretch forth their leprous hands for charity2 monks in white1 and canons in black1 walk in the shade of immense hats2 shoeless soldiers saunter to and fro2 ,indians from the mountains in every variety of costume cluster around heaps of vegetables for sale2 women in red1 brown1 and blue frocks are peddling oranges and alligator pears1 or bearing huge burdens on their heads2 children1 guiltless of clothing1 and obtuse donkeys1 wander whithersoever they will2 and water-carriers1 filling their jars at the fountain1 start off on a dog-trot4 ,illustration3 ,quito1 from the ,north4 ,we cross the ,plaza diagonally1 pass down the ,calle de ,san ,fernando1 up the ,calle del ,algodon1 and through the busy ,calle del ,correo1 till we reach the ,casa ,frances1 opposite the mansion of the late ,general ,flores4 ,this is our hotel--owned by a ,frenchman1 but kept by an ,indian4 ,we ride under the low archway1 bowing with ill grace1 like all republicans unaccustomed to royalty1 tie our beasts in the court-yard1 ascend to our spacious quarters on the second floor1 and1 ordering coffee1 seat ourselves in the beautiful balcony to talk of ,quito and ,quitonians4 ,illustration3 ,water-carriers4 ,quito1 though not the highest city on the globe1 is two thousand feet higher than the ,hospice of ,great ,st4 ,bernard on the ,alps1 which is the only permanent place of abode in ,europe above six thousand five hundred feet4 ,when ,mr4 ,hassaurek was appointed ,united ,states ,minister to ,ecuador1 he thanked ,mr4 ,lincoln for conferring upon him the highest gift in his power4 ,the mean result of our numerous observations with ,green's standard barometer places the ,grand ,plaza nine thousand five hundred and twenty feet above the sea1 or fifty feet lower than the calculation of ,humboldt4 ,water boils at #aid4e4 ,cuzco and ,potosi may surpass it in altitude1 but there is not a city in the world which can show at once such a genial climate1 such magnificent views1 and such a checkered history4 ,it is unique likewise in its latitude1 lying only fifteen miles below the equator2 no other capital comes within three hundred miles of the equinoctial line4 ,illustration3 ,street in ,quito4 ,whatever may have been the plan of ,quito in the days of ,huayna-,capac1 it is evident that the ,spanish founders were guided more by the spurs of ,pichincha than by astronomy4 ,the streets make an angle of forty-five degrees with the meridian1 so that not a single public building faces any one of the four cardinal points of the compass4 ,two deep ravines come down the mountain1 and traverse the city from west to east4 ,they are mostly covered by arches1 on which the houses rest2 but where they are open1 they disclose as fit representatives of the place of torment as the ,valley of ,hinnom4 ,the outline of the city is as irregular as its surface4 ,it incloses one square mile4 ,twenty streets1 all of them straiter than the apostolic one in ,damascus1 cross one another very nearly at right angles4 ,none of them are too wide1 and the walks are painfully narrow2 but1 thanks to ,garcia ,moreno1 they are well paved4 ,the inequality of the site1 and its elevation above the ,machngara1 render the drainage perfect4#ba ,the streets are dimly lighted by tallow candles1 every householder being obliged to hang out a lantern at #g ,p4,m41 unless there is moonshine4 ,the candles1 however1 usually expire about ten o'clock4 ,there are three squares--,plaza ,mayor1 ,plaza de ,san ,francisco1 and ,plaza de ,santo ,domingo4 ,the first is three hundred feet square1 and adorned with trees and flowers2 the others are dusty and unpaved1 being used as market-places1 where ,indians and donkeys most do congregate4 ,all the plazas have fountains fed with pure water from ,pichincha4 ,footnote #ba3 ,the following quotation1 however1 is true to the letter1 and will apply equally well to ,guayaquil and to ,madrid--the mother of them both3 ,there is another want still more embarrassing in ,quito than the want of hotels--it is the want of water-closets and privies1 which are not considered as necessary fixtures of private residences4 ,men1 women1 and children1 of all ages and colors1 may be seen in the middle of the street1 in broad daylight1 making privies of the most public thoroughfares2 and while thus engaged1 they will stare into the faces of passers-by with a shamelessness that beggars description4--,hassaurek4 ,few buildings can boast of architectural beauty1 yet ,quito looks palatial to the traveler who has just emerged from the dense forest on the coast1 crossing bridgeless rivers1 floundering over bottomless roads1 and ascending and descending immense mountains4 ,he is astonished to find such elegant edifices and such a proud aristocracy in this lofty lap of the ,andes4 ,the ,indian habitations which girdle the city have no more architectural pretensions than an ,arab dwelling4 ,they are low mud hovels1 the scene within and without of dirt and disorder4 ,as we approach the ,grand ,plaza1 the centre of the city1 the buildings increase in size1 style1 and finish4 ,the ordinary material is adobe1 not only because it is cheap1 but also because it best resists earthquake shocks4 ,fear of a terremoto has likewise led to a massiveness in construction which is slightly ludicrous when we see the poverty which it protects2 the walls are often two or three feet thick4 ,the ground floor is occupied by servants1 whose rooms--small enough to be called niches--surround the paved court-yard1 which is entered from the street by a broad doorway4 ,within this court is sometimes a fountain or flower-plot4 ,around it are arches or pillars supporting a gallery1 which is the passage-way to the apartments of the second story4 ,all the rooms are floored with large square bricks4 ,with few exceptions1 the only windows are folding glass doors leading to balconies overhanging the pavement4 ,the tiled roofs project far over into the street1 and from these project still farther uncouth water-spouts1 such as used to be seen in ,rio ,janeiro1 but have now been banished to the antiquarian museum4 ,only three or four private residences rise above two stories4 ,the shops are small affairs--akin to the cupboards of ,damascene merchants2 half a dozen modern ladies can keep out any more customers4 ,the door serves as entrance1 exit1 window1 and show-case4 ,the finest structures cluster around the plazas4 ,here are the public buildings1 some of them dating back to the times of ,philip ,,ii4 ,they are modeled after the old ,spanish style2 there is scarcely a fragment of ,gothic architecture4 ,they are built of large brick1 or a dark volcanic stone from ,pichincha4 ,illustration3 ,palacio de ,gobierno--,capitol4 ,the ,government ,house1 which serves at once as ,white ,house and ,capitol1 is an imposing edifice fronting the ,grand ,plaza1 and adorned with a fine colonnade4 ,on its right rises the cathedral2 on the left stands the unpretending palace of the nuncio4 ,the former would be called beautiful were it kept in repair2 it has a splendid marble porch1 and a terrace with carved stone balustrade4 ,the view above was taken from this terrace4 ,the finest faade is presented by the old ,jesuit church1 which has an elaborate front of porphyry4 ,the ,church of ,san ,francisco1 built by the treasures of ,atahuallpa1 discovered by an ,indian named ,catuna1 is the richest4 ,it is surmounted by two lofty towers1 and the interior is a perfect blaze of gilding4 ,the monastery attached to it is one of the largest in the world1 but the greater part of it is in ruins1 and one of the wings is used as a barrack4 ,those unsightly1 unadorned convents1 which cling to every church save the cathedral1 have neutralized nearly all architectural effect4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,population of ,quito4--,dress4--,manners4--,character4 --,commerce4--,agriculture4 --,manufactures4--,arts4--,education4--, amusements4--,quito ,ladies4 ,quitonians claim for their capital eighty thousand inhabitants2 but when we consider that one fourth of the city is covered with ecclesiastical buildings1 and that the dwelling-houses are but two stories high1 we see that there is not room for more than half that number4 ,from thirty thousand to forty thousand is the estimate of the venerable ,dr4 ,jameson1 who has resided here for a generation4#bb ,census taking is as difficult as in ,constantinople2 the people hide themselves to escape taxation4 ,the women far outnumber the men4 ,the white population--a stiff aristocracy of eight thousand souls--is of ,spanish descent1 but not more than half a dozen can boast of pure blood4 ,the coarse black hair1 prominent cheek-bones1 and low foreheads1 reveal an ,indian alliance4 ,this is the governing class2 from its ranks come those uneasy politicians who make laws for other people to obey1 and hatch revolutions when a rival party is in power4 ,they are blessed with fair mental capacity1 quick perception1 and uncommon civility2 but they lack education and industry1 energy and perseverance4 ,their wealth1 which is not great1 consists mainly in haciendas1 yielding grain1 cotton1 and cattle4 ,the ,aguirre family is one of the noblest and wealthiest in the city2 their mansion is on the ,grand ,plaza1 facing the ,capitol4 ,the pure ,indians of ,quito number perhaps #aj1jjj2 not all those seen in the city are citizens1 as many serranos1 or mountaineers1 come in to sell produce4 ,they are the serfs that do the drudgery of the republic2 they are the tillers of the soil1 and beasts of burden4 ,many sell themselves for money in advance1 and then are ever kept in debt4 ,excepting a few ,zambos 7the children of ,indians and ,negroes71 and a very few foreigners and ,negroes1 the remainder1 constituting the bulk of the population1 are ,cholos--the offspring of whites and ,indians4 ,they are not strictly half-breeds1 for the ,indian element stands out most prominent4 ,though a mixed race1 they are far superior to their progenitors in enterprise and intelligence4 ,they are the soldiers1 artisans1 and tradesmen who keep up the only signs of life in ,quito4 ,i know not the reason1 says ,darwin1 but men of such origin seldom have a good expression of countenance4 ,this may be true on the pampas1 but ,quito1 where there is every imaginable mixture of ,indian and ,spaniard1 is wonderfully free from ugly features4 ,it may be owing to the more peaceful and civilized history of this mountain city4 ,footnote #bb3 ,spanish rhetoric is given to exaggeration4 ,all their geese are swans4 ,a ,peruvian assured us that ,cuzco contained #bjj1jjj souls4 ,it is1 in fact1 about as large as ,quito2 ,gibbon says #bj1jjj4 ,as to dress1 black is the color of etiquette1 but is not so national as in ,madrid4 ,the upper class follow la mode de ,paris1 gentlemen adding the classic cloak of ,old ,spain4 ,this modern toga fits an ,ecuadorian admirably2 it favors habits of inactivity1 preventing the arms from doing any thing1 and covers a multitude of sins1 especially pride and poverty4 ,the poncho1 so peculiar to the ,west ,coast and to the ,gauchos of ,buenos ,ayres1 is a piece of cloth of divers colors1 with a slit in the centre1 through which the head is passed4 ,it is the only variable article of the wardrobe4 ,it is an excellent riding habit1 and is made of heavy woolen for mountain travel1 and of silk or cotton for warmer altitudes4 ,no gentleman will be seen walking in the streets of ,quito under a poncho4 ,hence citizens are divided into men with ponchos1 and gentlemen with cloaks4 ,the pauelon is the most essential article of female gear4 ,it answers to the mantilla of the mother country1 though it is not worn so gracefully as on the banks of the ,tagus4 ,andean ladies are not troubled with the distressing fluctuations in the style of hats2 a bonnet in ,quito is as much out of place as a turban in ,new ,york4 ,when the daughter of our late minister resident appeared in the cathedral with one1 the innovation was the subject of severe remark4 ,the ,spanish hair is the glory of the sex4 ,it is thick and black 7red1 being a rarity1 is considered a beauty71 and is braided in two long tresses4 ,a silk dress1 satin shoes1 and fancy jewelry complete the visible attire of the belles of ,quito4 ,the ordinary costume of the ,indians and ,cholos consists of a coarse cotton shirt and drawers1 and silk1 cotton1 or woolen poncho of native manufacture1 the females adding a short petticoat1 generally of a light blue or butter-nut color1 belted around the waist with a figured woolen belt woven by themselves4 ,the head1 arms1 legs1 and feet are often bare1 but1 by those who can afford it1 the head is covered with a straw or white felt broad-brim1 and the feet protected by sandals1 called alpargates1 made of the fibres of the aloe4 ,they are very fond of bracelets and necklaces4 ,infants are usually swathed from neck to feet with a broad strip of cloth1 so that they look like live mummies4 ,quitonians put us to shame by their unequaled courtesy1 cordiality1 and good-nature1 and are not far below the grave and decorous ,castilian in dignified politeness4#bc ,footnote #bc3 ,i must express my admiration at the natural politeness of almost every ,chileno4 ,we met1 near ,mendoza1 a little and very fat negress1 riding astride on a mule4 ,she had a gotre so enormous that it was scarcely possible to avoid gazing at her for a moment2 but my two companions almost instantly1 by way of apology1 made the common salute of the country by taking off their hats4 ,where would one of the lower or higher classes in ,europe have shown such feeling politeness to a poor and miserable object of a degraded race8--,darwin's ,naturalist's ,voyage4 ,rudeness1 which some ,northerners fancy is a proof of equality and independence1 we never met with1 and duels and street quarrels are almost unknown4 ,we detected none of the touchy sensitiveness of the punctilious ,spanish hidalgos4 ,their compliments and promises are without end2 and1 made in the magnificent and ceremonious language of ,spain1#bd are overwhelming to a stranger4 ,thus a fair ,quitonian sends by her servant the following message to another lady3 ,go to the ,seorita ,fulana de ,tal1 and tell her that she is my heart and the dear little friend of my soul2 tell her that ,i am dying for not having seen her1 and ask her why she does not come to see me2 tell her that ,i have been waiting for her more than a week1 and that ,i send her my best respects and considerations2 and ask her how she is1 and how her husband is1 and how her children are1 and whether they are all well in the family2 and tell her she is my little love1 and ask her whether she will be kind enough to send me that pattern which she promised me the other day4#be ,this highly important message the servant delivers like a parrot1 not omitting a single compliment1 but rather adding thereto4 ,footnote #bd3 ,the ,spanish tongue is the manly son of the ,latin1 as the ,italian is the fair daughter2 a language in which1 as ,charles ,v4 said1 ,god ought alone to be addressed in prayer4 ,it is spoken in ,america with an ,andalusian rather than ,toledan pronunciation4 ,footnote #be3 ,we are indebted to ,mr4 ,hassaurek for this capital illustration4 ,every lady1 married or unmarried1 is addressed ,seorita1 or ,miss4 ,a newly-arrived foreigner is covered with promises3 houses1 horses1 servants1 yea1 every thing is at his disposal4 ,but1 alas6 the traveler soon finds that this ceremony of words does not extend to deeds4 ,he is never expected to call for the services so pompously proffered4 ,so long as he stays in ,quito he will not lose sight of the contrast between big promise and beggarly performance4 ,this outward civility1 however1 is not hypocritical2 it is mere mechanical prattle2 the speaker does not expect to be taken at his word4 ,the love of superlatives and the want of good faith may be considered as prominent characteristics4 ,the readiness with which they break a promise or an agreement 7wrote ,colonel ,hall forty years ago7 can only be equaled by the sophistical ingenuity with which they defend themselves for having done so4 ,the ,quitonians1 who are sensible of their shortcomings1 have this standing apology3 ,our vices we owe to ,spain2 our virtues to ourselves4#bf ,footnote #bf3 ,when speaking of these countries1 the manner in which they have been brought up by their unnatural parent1 ,spain1 should always be borne in mind4 ,on the whole1 perhaps1 more credit is due for what has been done1 than blame for that which may be deficient4--,darwin's ,journal of ,researches1 p4 #aeh4 ,such is the mutual distrust1 partnerships are almost unknown2 we do not remember a single commercial firm1 save a few made up of brothers1 or father and son4 ,with this moral debility is joined the procrastinating spirit of the oriental4 ,maana 7to-morrow71 like the ,boukra of the ,arabs1 is the universal winding up of promises4 ,and very often1 if one promises a thing to-morrow1 he means the day after that4 ,it is impossible to start a man into prompt compliance2 he will not commence a piece of work when you wish nor when he promises4 ,no amount of cajolery1 bribery1 or threats will induce a ,quitonian to do any thing or be any where in season4 ,if there were a railroad in ,ecuador1 every body would be too late for the first train4 ,there are only one or two watch-tinkers in the great city1 and1 as may be inferred1 very few watches are in running order4 ,as a consequence1 the people have very little idea of time4 ,but this is not the sole reason for their dilatoriness2 they are indifferent4 ,nobody seems to want to make money 7though all are in sad need of it72 nobody is in a hurry2 nobody is busy save the tailors1 who manifest a commendable diligence4 ,contempt for labor1 a ,spanish inheritance1 and lack of energy1 are traits which stand out in alto relievo4 ,one can form his own judgment of the spiritless people from the single statement which we have from ,dr4 ,jameson1 that during the last forty years not ten ,quitonians have visited the grand crater of ,pichincha1 though it is possible to ride horseback to its very edge4 ,plenty of gentlemen by profession walk the streets and cathedral terrace1 proud as a ,roman senator under his toga1 yet not ashamed to beg a cup of coffee at the door of a more fortunate fellow-citizen4 ,society is in a constant struggle between ostentation and want4 ,nature has done more for ,ecuador than for ,ecuadorians4 ,she laid out this beautiful valley for an ,elysian field2 de ,quito al ,cielo 7from ,quito to ,heaven7 is not an empty adage2 and it is painful to look upon tottering walls and impassable roads1 upon neglected fields and an idle population--poor as poverty in the lap of boundless natural wealth4 ,the only really live man in the republic is the president1 ,seor ,g4 ,garcia ,moreno1 a man of wide views and great energy1 standing in these respects head and shoulders above his fellow-citizens4 ,quito and ,quito ,valley owe nearly all their improvements to this one man4 ,it is easy to say what would be the industry of a people who spend much of their time repeating traditions of treasures buried by the ,incas1 and stories of gold deposits in the mountains4 ,of commerce there is scarcely enough to deserve the name4 ,quito is an ecclesiastical city1 and is nearly supported by ,guayaquil4 ,without capital1 without energy1 without business habits1 ,quitonians never embark in grand commercial schemes and industrial enterprises4 ,there is not a highway for commerce in any direction1 only a natural path 7called by the innocent natives a road71 which rises to the altitude of fourteen thousand feet1 by which the beasts of burden pick their way over the ,cordillera4 ,and this is open only six months in the year4 ,should a box designed for ,quito arrive at ,guayaquil at the beginning of the rainy season1 it must tarry half a year till ,nature makes the road passable4 ,the unstable condition of the country does not encourage great undertakings2 all business is periodically paralyzed by revolution4 ,merchants generally buy their goods in ,lima1 to which city and ,guayaquil the fabrics of ,england and ,france are brought by foreigners in foreign ships4 ,the shops of ,quito1 as we have remarked1 are very small1 without windows1 and with only one wooden door4 ,the door is double1 and is fastened by a ponderous padlock4 ,they are open from #g ,a4,m4 till sunset1 excepting between nine and ten and between three and four1 when the stores are closed for breakfast and dinner2 the merchants never trusting their clerks1 even when they have any1 which is not usually the case4 ,they have no fixed price1 but get what they can4 ,the majority know nothing of wholesale1 and refuse to sell by the quantity1 fearing a cheat4 ,an ,indian woman will sell you a real's worth of oranges any number of times1 but she would object to parting with a dollar's worth--her arithmetic can not comprehend it4 ,in the portals or arcades of the ,aguirre mansion and the nuncio's palace are the stalls of the haberdashers4 ,articles are not wrapped in paper2 customers must get them home the best way they can4 ,ladies of the higher class seldom go out shopping1 but send for samples4 ,it is considered disgraceful to either sex to be seen carrying any thing through the streets of ,quito4 ,the common people buy only for immediate wants--a dose of medicine1 or a handful of potatoes at a time4 ,nearly all liquids1 kerosene as well as wine1 are sold by the bottle4 ,there was no bank in ,quito in #ahfg1 but an attempt has just been made to establish one4 ,the paper money of ,guayaquil is often at nine per cent4 discount in the capital4 ,the currency is silver adulterated with one third of copper4 ,the smallest coin1 the cal1 is worth about two and a half cents4 ,above that are medios 7five cents71 reals 7ten cents71 two1 four1 and eight reals4 ,eight reals make a soft dollar 7#j #hj72 ten reals1 a hard dollar 7#a #jj74 ,there is no copper coin--oranges and loaves of bread are sometimes used to make change2 and nearly all the gold in circulation are ,new ,granada condors and ,peruvian onzas4 ,many of the silver pieces have large holes cut in the centre1 so that they resemble rings4 ,government set the example 7and the people followed7 on the plea that it would prevent the exportation of coin4 ,the plan has succeeded1 for it does not pass out of the valley4 ,nearly the only sign of progress is the late introduction of the grape and silk-worm2 and these give so much promise of success that the threadbare nobility have already begun to count their coming fortunes4 ,husbandry is more pastoral than agricultural4 ,thousands of cattle are raised on the paramos1 but almost wholly for beef4 ,a dislike to milk 7observes ,humboldt71 or at least the absence of its use before the arrival of ,europeans1 was1 generally speaking1 a feature common to all nations of the ,new ,continent1 as likewise to the inhabitants of ,china4 ,some cheese 7mostly unpressed curd7 and a little butter are made1 but in the patriarchal style4 ,only one ,american churn is in operation2 the people insist upon first boiling the milk and then stirring with a spoon4 ,custom is omnipotent here1 and its effects hereditary4 ,milking is done at any hour of the day1 or whenever milk is wanted4 ,the operation is a formidable one to these bull-fighting people4 ,stopping at a hacienda near ,pelilo for a drink of milk1 we were eye-witness of a comical sight4 ,a mild-looking cow was driven up to the door2 the woman1 evidently the bravest member of the household1 seized the beast by the horns2 a boy tied the hind legs with a long rope1 and held on to one end of it at a respectful distance2 while the father1 with outstretched arms1 milked into a calabash4 ,agricultural machinery is not in use4 ,the first threshing-machine ,quito ever saw was made in #ahfg by some ,california miners1 but it remained unsold when we last saw it4 ,the spade is not known2 the nearest approach to it is a crowbar flattened at one end4 ,hoes are clumsy and awkward4 ,yankee plows are bought more as curiosities than for use4 ,many a crooked stick is seen scratching the land1 as in ,egypt1 which the cattle drag by their horns4 ,sometimes a number of sharp-nosed hogs are tied together and let into a field1 and driven from place to place till the whole is rooted up4 ,corn is planted by making holes in the ground with a stick1 and dropping in the seed4 ,the soil and climate of ,ecuador1 so infinitely varied1 offer a home to almost every useful plant4 ,the productions of either ,india could be naturalized on the lowlands1 while the highlands would welcome the grains and fruits of ,europe4 ,but intertropical people do not subdue nature like the civilized men of the ,north2 they only pick up a livelihood4 ,spanish ,americans1 like ,castilians on the banks of the ,tagus1 have a singular antipathy to trees4 ,when ,garcia ,moreno made a park of the dusty ,plaza ,mayor1 he was ridiculed1 even threatened4 ,to plant a fruit or shade tree 7a thing of foresight and forethought for others7 in a land where people live for self1 and from hand to mouth1 is considered downright folly in theory and practice4 ,a large portion of the valley1 left treeless1 is becoming less favorable for cultivation4 ,yet1 as it is1 the traveler is charmed by the emerald verdure of the coast1 and by evergreen ,quito--more beautiful than the hanging gardens of ,babylon--suspended far above the ordinary elevation of the clouds4 ,in the ,san ,francisco market we find wheat1 barley1 maize1 beans1 peas1 potatoes1 cabbages1 beets1 salads1 pine-apples1 chirimoyas1 guavas1 oranges1 lemons1 pears1 quinces1 peaches1 apricots1 melons1 and strawberries--the last all the year round4 ,most of these are exotics2 the early discoverers found not a cereal grain of the ,old ,world1 not an orange or apple1 no sugar-cane or strawberries4#bg ,footnote #bg3 ,the vase is still shown in which ,father ,rixi brought the first wheat from ,europe4 ,it was sown in what is now the ,san ,francisco ,plaza1 the chief market-place of the city4 ,there is but little manufacturing industry in the interior of ,ecuador1 but much more than on the coast4 ,the chief articles manufactured are straw hats1 shoes1 baskets1 carpets1 embroidery1 tape1 thread1 ponchos1 coarse woolen and cotton cloth1 saddles1 sandals1 soap1 sugar1 cigars1 aguardiente1 powder1 sweetmeats1 carved images1 paints1 and pottery4 ,wines1 crockery1 glassware1 cutlery1 silks1 and fine cloth are imported4 ,there are three cotton mills in the country2 one in ,chillo 7established by ,seors ,aguirre in #ahdb71 another in ,otovalo 7built by ,seor ,parija in #ahei71 and a third in ,cuenca 7#ahfa74 ,the machinery of the ,chillo factory came from ,england2 that of ,otovalo from ,patterson1 ,n4,j4 ,the latter was utterly destroyed in the late great earthquake1 and the proprietor killed4 ,the cotton is inferior to that of ,new ,orleans2 it is not fat1 as mechanics say2 the seeds yield only two per cent4 of oil4 ,but it is whiter than ,american cotton1 though coarse1 and can be used only for very ordinary fabrics4 ,the average length is five eighths of an inch4 ,one pod will produce on an average three pennyweights4 ,the mills of ,chillo and ,otovalo consume #dbe1jjj pounds annually4 ,the first sugar-mill was erected by the ,aguirres in #ahdj at ,nanegal4 ,illustration3 ,indian ,dwellings4 ,quito is more than a century behind this age of steam and lightning4 ,to form an adequate idea of the mechanic and fine arts in that city of the kings1 we must transport ourselves to the ,saxon period of ,european civilization4 ,both the material and the construction of the houses would craze ,sir ,christopher ,wren4 ,with fine quarries close at hand1 they must build with mud mixed with stones1 or plastered on wattles1 like the ,druses of ,mount ,lebanon4 ,living on the equatorial line and on the meridian so accurately measured by the highest mathematics of ,france and ,spain1 ,quitonians must needs leave out every right angle or straight line in the walls1 and every square beam and rafter4 ,except on the grand road from ,quito to ,ambato1 commenced by ,president ,moreno1 there is not a wheel-barrow to be seen2 paving-stones1 lime1 brick1 and dirt1 are usually carried on human backs4 ,saint ,crispin never had the fortitude to do penance in the shoes of ,quito1 and the huge nails which enter into the hoofs of the quadrupedants remind one of the ,cyclops4 ,there are not six carts in ,quito4 ,if you wish to move1 you must coax a dozen ,indians1 who care little for your money or your threats4 ,horse-hire1 peonage1 and most mechanical work must be paid for in advance4 ,carriages--antique vehicles1 of which there are two or three in the city--are drawn by mules4 ,the first was introduced by ,seor ,aguirre so late as #ahei1 and he was fined by the police for the privilege of riding in it4 ,quitonians are not a traveling people1 and they are painfully ignorant of their own country4 ,the most enterprising merchant ignores every thing but ,quito and the road to ,guayaquil4 ,we can not praise the musical talent of ,spanish ,americans2 their intonation is too nasal1 while in their jumpings and chirpings they take after the grasshopper4 ,a resident ,englishman1 who has traveled in many countries1 and sings the songs of nearly every nation1 told us he could not remember one of ,ecuador4 ,pianos they have brought over the mountains at great expense2 but they are more at home with the guitar4 ,the embroidery and lace1 wood carving and portrait painting of ,quito1 are commendable2 but the grandeur of the ,andes1 like the beauty of the ,alps1 was never sketched by a native4 ,ecuador boasts of one ,university and eleven colleges2 yet the people are not educated4 ,literature1 science1 philosophy1 law1 medicine1 are only names4 ,nearly all young gentlemen are doctors of something2 but their education is strangely dwarfed1 defective1 and distorted2 and their knowledge1 such as they have1 is without power1 as it is without practice4 ,the ,university of ,quito has two hundred and eighty-five students1 of whom thirty-five are pursuing law1 and eighteen medicine4 ,there are eleven professors4 ,they receive no fees from the students1 but an annual salary of #cjj4 ,the library contains eleven thousand volumes1 nearly all old ,latin1 ,spanish1 and ,french works4 ,the cabinet is a bushel of stones cast into one corner of a lumber-room1 covered with dust1 and crying out in vain for a man in the ,university to name them4 ,the ,college of ,tacunga has forty-five students2 a fine chemical and philosophical apparatus1 but no one to handle it2 and a set of rocks from ,europe1 but only a handful from ,ecuador4 ,the ,college of ,riobamba has four professors1 and one hundred and twenty students4 ,in the common schools1 the pupils study in concert aloud1 ,arab fashion4 ,there are four papers in the republic2 two in ,guayaquil1 one in ,cuenca1 and one in ,quito4 ,el ,nacional1 of the capital1 is an official organ1 not a newspaper2 it contains fourteen duodecimo pages1 and is published occasionally by the ,minister of the ,interior4 ,like the ,gazeta of ,madrid1 it is one of the greatest satires ever deliberately published by any people on itself4 ,there is likewise but one paper in ,cuzco1 ,el ,triumfo del ,pueblo4 ,the amusements of ,quito are few1 and not very amusing4 ,indo-,castilian blood runs too slowly for merry-making4 ,there are no operas or concerts1 no theatres or lectures1 no museums or menageries4 ,for dramas they have revolutions2 for menageries1 bull-baitings4 ,a bull-bait is not a bull-fight4 ,there is no coliseum or amphitheatre2 no matador gives the scientific death-wound4 ,unlike their fraternity in the ring of ,seville1 where they are doomed to die1 the animals are only doomed to be pothered2 they are scotched1 not killed4 ,they are teased and tormented by yelling crowds1 barking dogs1 brass bands1 red ponchos1 tail-pulling1 fire-crackers1 wooden lances1 and such like4 ,the ,plaza de ,toros is the ,plaza de ,san ,francisco4 ,this sport is reserved for the most notable days in the calendar3 ,christmas1 ,new ,year's1 ,inauguration-day1 and ,independence-day--the #ajth of ,august4 ,cock-fights come next in popularity1 and are bona fide fights4 ,often the roosters are so heroic that both leave their blood in the arena1 and never crow again4 ,little knives are fastened to the natural spurs1 with which the fowls cut each other up frightfully4 ,the interesting scene takes place on ,sundays and ,thursdays1 near the ,church of ,santa ,catalina1 and is regulated by a municipal tribunal4 ,the admission fee of five cents1 and the tax of two per cent4 on bets1 yield the city a monthly revenue of #ajj4 ,other pastimes are carnivals and masquerades4 ,carnival is observed by pelting one another with eggs and sprinkling with water4 ,whoever invented this prelude to ,lent should be canonized4 ,masquerades occur during the holidays1 when all classes1 in disguise or fancy dress1 get up a little fun at each other's expense4 ,the monotony of social life is more frequently disturbed by fashionable funerals than by these amusements2 and1 as the principal families are inter-related1 the rules of condolence keep the best part of society in mourning1 and the best pianos and guitars silent for at least six months in the year4 ,a word about the ladies of ,quito4 ,we concur in the remark of our minister1 ,mr4 ,hassaurek1 that their natural dignity1 gracefulness1 and politeness1 their entire self-possession1 their elegant but unaffected bearing1 and the choiceness of their language1 would enable them to make a creditable appearance in any foreign drawing-room4 ,their natural talents are of a high order2 but we must add that the seoras are uneducated1 and are incapable of either great vices or great virtues4 ,their minds1 like the soil of their native country1 are fertile1 but uncultivated2 and their hearts1 like the climate1 are of a mean temperature4 ,prayer-books and ,french novels 7imported1 as wanted1 for there is not a book-store in the city7 are the alpha and the omega of their literature2 ,paris is considered the centre of civilization4 ,they are comely1 but not beautiful2 ,venus has given her girdle of fascination to few4 ,sensible of this1 they paint4 ,holinski gives his impressions by contrasting the fair ,quitonians with the fairer ,guayaquilians3 ,les yeux vifs et ardent1 le pied fine et mignon1 les teintes chaudes et dores distinguish the latter4 ,in the ladies of the high capital there is nothing of this3 ,les yeux ne lancent pas de flammes1 le pied est sans gentillesse1 l'epiderme ne reflte pas les rayons du soleil4 ,the ladies on the coast take all possible pains to preserve the small size of the foot2 a large foot is held in horror4 ,von ,tschudi once overheard some ladies extolling in high terms the beauty of an ,english lady2 all their praise1 however1 ending with this exclamation1 ,but what a foot6 ,good heavens6 it is like a great boat6 ,gibbon is continually talking of beautiful seoras and seoritas on the ,andes2 surely the lieutenant is in sport4#bh ,footnote #bh3 ,the young ladies of ,cuzco are1 in general1 very beautiful1 with regular features1 fresh olive complexions1 bright eyes full of intelligence1 furnished with long lashes1 and masses of black hair plaited in two tails4--,markham4 ,the ladies of ,quito give few entertainments for lack of ready money4 ,they spend much of their time in needle-work and gossip1 sitting like ,turkish sultanas on divans or the floor4 ,they do not rise at your entrance or departure4 ,they converse in a very loud1 unmusical voice4 ,we never detected bashfulness in the street or parlor4 ,they go to mass every morning1 and make visits of etiquette on ,sundays4 ,they take more interest in political than in domestic affairs4 ,dust and cobwebs are unmistakable signs of indifference4 ,brooms are rarities2 such as exist are besoms made of split stick4 ,since our return1 we have sent to a ,quitonian gentleman1 by request1 a package of broom-corn seed1 which1 we trust1 will be the forerunner of a harvest of brooms and cleaner floors in the high city4 ,not only the lords1 but also the ladies1 are inveterate smokers4 ,little mats are used for spittoons4 ,illustration3 ,washerwomen4 ,perhaps ,quitonian ladies have too many ,indian servants about them to keep tidy2 seven or eight is the average number for a family4 ,these are married1 and occupy the ground floor1 which swarms with nude children4 ,they are cheap1 thievish1 lazy1 and filthy4 ,no class1 pure-blood or half-breed1 is given to ablution1 though there are two public baths in the city4 ,washerwomen repair to the ,machngara1 where they beat the dirty linen of ,quito over the smooth rocks4 ,we remember but two or three table-cloths which entirely covered the table1 and only one which was clean4 ,there are but two daily meals2 one does not feel the need of more2 they are partaken at nine and three1 or an hour earlier than in ,guayaquil4 ,when two unwashed1 uncombed cooks bend over a charcoal fire1 which is fanned by a third unkempt individual1 and all three blinded by smoke 7for there is no chimney71 so that it is not their fault if capillaries and something worse are mingled with the stew1 with onions to right of them1 onions to left of them1 onions in front of them1 and achote already in the pot in spite of your repeated anathemas and expostulations--achote1 the same red coloring matter which the wild ,indians use for painting their bodies and dyeing their cloth--and with several aboriginal wee ones romping about the kitchen1 keen must be the appetite that will take hold with alacrity as the dishes are brought on by the most slovenly waiter imagination can body forth4#bi ,the aim of ,ecuadorian cookery is to eradicate all natural flavor2 you wouldn't know you were eating chicken except by the bones4 ,even coffee and chocolate somehow lose their fine ,guayaquilian aroma in this high altitude1 and the very pies are stuffed with onions4 ,but the beef1 minus the garlic1 is most excellent1 and the dulce unapproachable4 ,footnote #bi3 ,we noticed at ,riobamba a custom which formerly prevailed also at ,quito4 ,as soon as the guests have finished1 and before they have risen1 the ,indian waiter kneels devoutly down beside the table1 and offers thanks in a very solemn1 touching tone4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,ecuador4--,extent4--,government4--,reli gion4--,a ,protestant ,cemetery in ,quito4--,climate4--,regularity of ,tropical ,nature4--,diseases on the ,highlands4 ,the republic of ,ecuador looks like a wedge driven into the continent between the ,maraon and the ,putumayo4 ,it has #abjj miles of ,pacific coast1 and an area of about two hundred thousand square miles1 including the ,galpagos ,islands4 ,peru1 however1 claims the oriental half1 drawing her northern boundary from ,tumbez through ,canlos and ,archidona2 and she is entitled to much of it1 for she has established a regular line of steamers on the ,maraon1 while the ,quito government has not developed an acre east of the ,andes4 ,ecuador is hung between and upon two cordilleras1 which naturally divide it into three parts3 the western slope1 the ,quitonian valley1 and the ,napo region4 ,the fluvial system is mainly made up of the ,napo1 ,pastassa1 and ,santiago1 tributaries of the ,maraon1 and the ,mira1 ,esmeraldas1 and ,guayaquil1 flowing westward into the ,pacific4 ,there are no lakes proper1 but the natives enumerate fifty-five lagunes1 the largest of which1 ,capucuy1 is not over five miles long4 ,villavicencio tells the world that his country has a total population of #a1cjh1jdb4 ,but ,dr4 ,jameson believes it does not exceed #gjj1jjj4 ,the government is based on the ,constitution of #ahde1 amended in #ahec4 ,the president is chosen by a plurality of votes1 holds his office for four years1 and has a salary of #ab1jjj4 ,he can not be re-elected1#cj nor can he exercise his functions more than twenty-five miles from the capital4 ,but the law is often set aside by those in power4 ,during the administration of ,garcia ,moreno1 prominent citizens were shot or banished by his order1 without trial by jury4 ,to every plea for mercy the stern president replied1 that as he could not save the country according to the ,constitution1 he should govern it according to his own views of public necessity4 ,footnote #cj3 ,since this was written1 ,garcia ,moreno has been re-elected to the presidency and the ,constitution revised4 ,congress assembles on the #aeth of ,september every other year1 and consists of eighteen senators and thirty representatives4 ,the chambers are small1 and literally barren of ornament4 ,the members sit in two rows facing each other1 have no desks1 and give an affirmative vote by a silent bow4 ,politics has less to do with principles and parties than with personalities4 ,often it has a financial aspect2 and the natural expression on learning of a revolution is1 ,somebody is out of money4 ,the party in feathers its nest as fast as possible2 there is scarcely a public officer who is not open to bribery4 ,the party out plots a premature resurrection to power by the ladders of corruption1 slander1 and revolution4#ca ,revolution has so rapidly followed revolution that history has ceased to count them2 and it may be said of them what ,milton wrote of the wars of the ,saxon ,heptarchy1 that they are not more worthy of being recorded than the skirmishes of crows and kites4 ,the ,grand ,plaza1 the heart where all the great arteries of circulation meet and diverge1 is where the high tides of ,quito affairs ebb and flow4 ,footnote #ca3 ,government has more than once paid its debts by repudiation4 ,congress lately voted to pay only seven per cent4 of the claims against the state which are dated prior to a certain year4 ,among the sufferers is the venerable ,dr4 ,jameson1 a distinguished foreigner1 who has served this country faithfully for forty years1 first as assayer1 then as director of the mint1 and always by his scientific position4 ,the ,supreme ,court consists of five judges4 ,criminal cases only are tried by jury2 and an attorney is not permitted to question a witness4 ,there are no penitentiaries3 second-class criminals are made to work for the public1 while political offenders are banished to the banks of the ,napo1 or to ,peru4 ,here1 as in no other country1 every man's house is his castle4 ,no search-warrants are allowed2 a policeman can be shot dead on the threshold4 ,the person and property of a foreigner are safe2 and no native in the employ of a foreigner can be taken by the government for military purposes4 ,all1 except pure ,indians1 can vote if over twenty-one1 and can read and write4 ,a man's signature is without value if it lacks his flourish--a custom of ,spanish origin4 ,the permanent army consists of two regiments4 ,the soldiers are mostly half-breeds1 and are generally followed by their wives4 ,they are poorly paid2 and as they are impressed into the service1 they carry out the principle by helping themselves wherever they go4 ,in marching1 they have a quicker step than ,northern soldiers4 ,the chief expenditure of the republic is for the army1 about #ejj1jjj2 the next is for the payment of the national debt1 #cfj1jjj4 ,the foreign debt is #a1dgj1cgd4 ,ecuadorians claim a revenue of a million and a half1 of which one half is from the custom-house1 and one fiftieth from the post-office4 ,one would suppose that the people who breathe this high atmosphere1 and enjoy this delightful climate1 and are surrounded by all that is truly grand and beautiful1 would have some corresponding virtues4 ,but we find that ,nature1 here as every where1 has mingled base and noble elements4 ,the lofty mountains1 bearing in their steadfastness the seal of their appointed symbol--,god's righteousness is like the great mountains--look down upon one of the lowest and most corrupt forms of republican government on earth2#cb their snowy summits preach sermons on purity to ,quitonian society1 but in vain2 and the great thoughts of ,god written all over the ,andes are unable to lift this proud capital out of the mud and mire of medival ignorance and superstition4 ,the established religion is the narrowest and most intolerant form of ,romanism4 ,mountains usually have a more elevating1 religious influence than monotonous plains4 ,the ,olympian mythology of the ,greek was far superior to the beastly worship on the banks of the ,nile4 ,and yet at the very feet of glorious ,chimborazo and ,pichincha we see a nation bowing down to little images of the rudest sculpture with a devotion that reminds us of the ,middle ,ages4 ,footnote #cb3 ,asking the late ,chilian minister for his view of the rank of the different ,south ,american states1 he gave us this order3 ,chile1 ,brazil1 ,argentine ,republic1 ,venezuela1 ,new ,granada1 ,central ,america1 ,mexico1 ,peru1 ,bolivia1 ,ecuador4 ,illustration3 ,ecclesiastics4 ,the belief is called ,la ,fe1 or the only true one4 ,the oath of a ,protestant is not regarded in courts of law4 ,one fourth of ,quito is covered by convents and churches4 ,the convents alone number fifty-seven1 and are very extensive1 sometimes spreading over eight or nine acres4 ,the ,church revenue amounts to #hjj1jjj4 ,there are more than four hundred priests1 monks1 and nuns in the capital4 ,the native ecclesiastics are notorious for their ignorance and immorality4 ,it is a very common thing 7says ,dr4 ,terry7 for a curate to have a whole flock of orphan nephews and nieces1 the children of an imaginary brother4 ,there is one ex-president who has the reputation of tying a spur on the leg of a game-cock better even than a curate4 ,the imported ,jesuits are the most intelligent and influential clergy4 ,they control the universities and colleges1 and education generally4 ,active and intellectual1 though not learned1 they have infused new life into the fat indolence of the ,spanish system4 ,men of this world rather than the next1 they have adopted a purely mundane policy1 abjured the gloomy cowl1 raised gorgeous temples1 and say1 ,he that cometh unto us shall in no wise lose heaven4 ,their chief merit1 however1 is the discovery of the turkey and quinine4 ,the ,protestant in ,quito is annoyed by an everlasting jingling of bells and blowing of bugles night and day4 ,the latter are blown every third hour4 ,the bells are struck by boys1 not rung4 ,a bishop1 returning from a visit to ,london1 was asked if there were any good bells in ,england4 ,very fine1 he replied1 but there is not a man there who knows how to ring them4 ,foreign machinery is sprinkled with holy water to neutralize the inherent heresy2 but a miller1 for example1 will charge more for his flour after the baptism4 ,lotteries are countenanced by both ,church and ,state1 and in turn help support them2 we saw one grand scheme carried out on the cathedral terrace and defended by bayonets4 ,at half past nine in the morning all ,quito is on its knees1 as the great bell of the cathedral announces the elevation of the ,host4 ,the effect is astonishing4 ,riders stop their horses2 foot-passengers drop down on the pavement2 the cook lets go her dishes and the writer his pen2 the merchant lays aside his measure and the artisan his tool2 the half-uttered oath 7carjo67 dies on the lips of the ,cholo2 the arm of the cruel ,zambo1 unmercifully beating his donkey1 is paralyzed2 and the smart repartee of the lively donna is cut short4 ,the solemn stillness lasts for a minute1 when the bell tolls again1 and all rise to work or play4 ,holidays are frequent4 ,processions led by a crucifix or wooden image are attractive sights in this dull city1 simply because little else is going on4 ,occasionally a girl richly dressed to represent the humble mother of ,god is drawn about in a carriage1 and once a year the figures of the ,virgin belonging to different churches are borne with much pomp to the ,plaza1 where they bow to each other like automatons4 ,this is a bad country to live in1 and a worse one to die in1 said ,dr4 ,jameson4 ,but times have changed1 even in fossil ,quito4 ,through the efforts of our late minister1 ,hon4 ,w4,t4 ,coggeshall1 the bigoted government has at last consented to inclose a quarter of an acre outside the city for the subterranean burial of heretics4 ,the cemetery is on the edge of the beautiful plain of ,iaquito1 and on the right of the road leading to ,gupolo4 ,what a shame1 said a ,quitonian lady of position1 that there should be a place to throw ,protestant dogs6 ,on ,st4 ,nathaniel's day died ,colonel ,phineas ,staunton1 ,vice-,chancellor of ,ingham ,university1 ,new ,york4 ,an artist by profession1 and one of very high order1 ,colonel ,staunton joined our expedition to sketch the glories of the ,andes1 but he fell a victim to the scourge of the lowlands one week after his arrival in ,quito4 ,we buried him at noon-day#cc in the new cemetery1 wherein was never man laid1 and by the act consecrated the ground4 ,peace to his ashes2 honor to his memory4 ,that #hth of ,september1 #ahfg1 was a new day in the annals of ,quito4 ,on that day the imperial city beheld1 for the first time in three centuries1 the decent burial of a ,protestant in a ,protestant cemetery4 ,somewhere1 mingled with the ashes of ,pichincha1 is the dust of ,atahuallpa1 who was buried in his beloved ,quito at his own request after his murder in ,caxamarca4 ,but dearer to us is that solitary grave2 the earth is yet fresh that covers the remains of one of nature's noblemen4 ,footnote #cc3 ,this was a new thing under the sun4 ,quitonians bury at dead of night1 with lanterns dimly burning4 ,the dirges sung as the procession winds through the streets are extremely plaintive1 and are the most touching specimens of ,ecuadorian music4 ,the corpse1 especially of a child1 is often carried in a chair in a sitting posture4 ,the wealthy class wall up their dead in niches on the side of ,pichincha1 hypothetically till the resurrection1 but really for two years1 when1 unless an additional payment is made1 the bones are thrown into a common pit and the coffin burnt4 ,to prevent this1 a few who can afford it embalm the deceased4 ,one of the most distinguished citizens of ,quito keeps his mummified father at his hacienda1 and annually dresses him up in a new suit of clothes6 ,turn we now to a more delightful topic than the politics and religion of ,quito4 ,the climate is perfect4 ,fair ,italy1 with her classic prestige and ready access1 will long be the land of promise to travelers expatriated in search of health4 ,but if ever the ancients had reached this ,andean valley1 they would have located here the ,elysian ,fields1 or the seat of the blessed1 the happy1 and long-lived of ,anacreon4#cd ,no torrid heat enervates the inhabitant of this favored spot2 no icy breezes send him shivering to the fire4 ,nobody is sun-struck2 nobody's buds are nipped by the frost4 ,stoves and chimneys1 starvation and epidemics1 are unknown4 ,it is never either spring1 summer1 or autumn1 but each day is a combination of all three4 ,the mean annual temperature of ,quito is #eh4h1 the same as ,madrid1 or as the month of ,may in ,paris4 ,the average range in twenty-four hours is about #aj4 ,the coldest hour is #f ,a4,m42 the warmest between #b and #c ,p4,m4 ,the extremes in a year are #de and #gj2 those of ,moscow are-#ch and #hi4 ,it is a prevalent opinion that since the great earthquake of #agig the temperature has been lower4 ,it was suddenly reduced 7says the ,encycl4 ,metropolitana7 from #ff or #fh to #dj or #de--;a manifest error4 ,the natives say that since the terremote of #ahei the seasons have not commenced so regularly1 nor are they so well defined2 there are more rainy days in summer than before4 ,it remains to be seen whether the late convulsion has affected the climate4 ,footnote #cd3 ,in the mountain-town of ,caxamarca1 farther south1 there were living in #agib seven persons aged #aad1 #aag1 #aba1 #aca1 #acb1 #ada1 and #adg4 ,one of them1 when he died1 left behind him eight hundred living descendants to mourn his loss4 ,we confess1 however1 that we saw very few old persons in ,quito4 ,foreigners outlive the natives1 because they live a more regular and temperate life4 ,the mean diurnal variation of the barometer is only 4#jhd4 ,so regular is the oscillation1 as likewise the variations of the magnetic needle1 that the hour may be known within fifteen minutes by the barometer or compass4 ,such is the clock-like order of ,nature under the equator1 that even the rains1 the most irregular of all meteorological phenomena in temperate zones1 tell approximately the hour of the day4 ,the winds1 too1 have an orderly march--the ebb and flow of an aerial ocean4 ,no wonder watch-tinkers can not live where all the forces in nature keep time4 ,nobody talks about the weather2 conversation begins with benedictions or compliments4 ,the greatest variations of the thermometer occur in autumn1 and the greatest quantity of rain falls in ,april4#ce ,while on the western side of the ,andes1 south of the equator1 the dry season extends from ,june to ,january1 on the eastern side of the ,cordillera the seasons are reversed1 the rain lasting from ,march to ,november4 ,the climate of the central valley is modified by this opposition of seasons on either side of it1 as also by the proximity of snowy peaks4 ,nine such peaks stand around ,quito within a circle of thirty miles4 ,the prevailing winds in summer are from the northeast2 in the winter the southwest predominate4 ,footnote #ce3 ,the mean annual fall of rain at ,quito is #gj inches4 ,charleston is #de4i inches4 ,new ,york is #db4bc ,albany is #dj4ic ,montreal is #cf ,madrid is #aj4 ,there are only three small drug-stores in the great city of ,quito4 ,the serpent is used as the badge of apothecary art4 ,physicians have no offices1 nor do they1 as a general rule1 call upon their patients4 ,when an invalid is not able to go to the doctor1 he is expected to die4 ,yellow fever1 cholera1 and consumption are unknown2 while intermittent fevers1 dysentery1 and liver complaints1 so prevalent on the coast1 are uncommon4 ,the ordinary diseases are catarrhal affections and typhoid fever4 ,cases of inflammation of the lungs are rare2 more coughing may be heard during a ,sunday service in a ,new ,england meeting-house than in six months in ,quito4 ,the diseases to which the monks of ,st4 ,bernard are liable are pulmonary1 and the greater number become asthmatic4 ,asthma is also common in ,quito1 while phthisis increases as we descend to the sea4 ,individuals are often seen with a handkerchief about the jaws1 or bits of plaster on the temples2 these are afflicted with headache or toothache1 resulting from a gratified passion for sweetmeats1 common to all ages and classes4 ,digestive disorders are somewhat frequent 7contrary to the theory in ,europe71 but they spring from improper food and sedentary habits4 ,the cuisine of the country does not tempt the stomach to repletion1 and the climate is decidedly peptic4 ,so the typhoid fever of ,quito is due to filth1 poor diet1 and want of ventilation4 ,corpulency1 especially among the men1 is astonishingly rare4 ,according to ,dr4 ,lombard1 mountain districts favor the development of diseases of the heart2 and contagious diseases are not arrested by the atmosphere of lofty regions4 ,this is true in ,quito4 ,but while nervous diseases are rare in the inhabited highlands of ,europe1 in ,quito they are common4 ,sleep is said to be more tranquil and refreshing1 and the circulation more regular at high altitudes2 but our experience does not sustain this4 ,gotre is quite common among the mountains4 ,it is a sign of constitutional weakness1 for the children of gotred parents are usually deaf and dumb1 and the succeeding generation idiots4 ,boussingault thinks it is owing to the lack of atmospheric air in the water2 but why is it nearly confined to the women8 ,in the southern provinces about ,cuenca1 cutaneous affections are quite frequent4 ,in the highlands generally1 scrofulous diseases are more common than in the plains4 ,there are three hospitals for lepers2 one at ,cuenca with two hundred patients1 one at ,quito with one hundred and twelve patients1 and one at ,ambato4 ,near ,riobamba is a community of dwarfs4 ,d',orbigny made a post-mortem examination of some ,indians from the highest regions1 and found the lungs of extraordinary dimensions1 the cells larger and more in number4 ,hence the unnatural proportion of the trunk1 which is plainly out of harmony with the extremities4 ,the expanded chest of the mountaineers is evidently the result of larger inspirations to secure the requisite amount of oxygen1 which is much less in a given space at ,quito than on the coast4 ,this is an instance1 observes ,prichard1 of long-continued habit1 and the result of external agencies modifying the structure of the body1 and with it the state of the most important functions of life4 ,we tried the experiment of burning a candle one hour at ,guayaquil1 and another part of the same candle for the same period at ,quito4 ,temperature at ,guayaquil1 #hj2 at ,quito1 #fb4 ,the loss at ,guayaquil was #adj grains2 at ,quito1 #aad1 or #bf grains less at the elevation of #iejj feet4 ,acoustics will also illustrate the thinness of the air4 ,m4 ,godin found 7#agde7 that a nine-pounder could not be heard at the distance of #aba1ecg feet2 and that an eight-pounder at ,paris1 at the distance of #ajb1ffd feet1 was louder than a nine-pounder at ,quito at the distance of #fg1bdj feet4 ,according to ,dr4 ,archibald ,smith1 the power of muscular exertion in a native of the coast is greatly increased by living at the height of #aj1jjj feet4 ,but it is also asserted by observing travelers that dogs and bulls lose their combativeness at #ab1jjj feet1 and that hence there can never be a good bull-fight or dog-fight on the ,sierras4 ,this is literally true3 the dogs seem to partake of the tameness of their masters4 ,cats do not flourish at all in high altitudes2 and probably the lion1 transplanted from the low jungle to the table-lands1 would lose much of his ferocity4 ,still1 cock-fights seem to prosper2 and the battle of ,pichincha was fought on an elevation of nearly #aa1jjj feet4 ,bolivar and the ,spaniards1 also1 fought like tigers on the high plain of ,junin4#cf ,footnote #cf3 ,gibbon states that the temperature of the blood of a young bull in ,cuzco was #ajj2 air1 #eg4 ,at the base of the ,andes a similar experiment resulted in #aja for the blood1 air #gh4 ,the lieutenant jocosely adds3 ,the ,spaniards have forced the hog so high up on the ,andes that he suffers every time he raises his bristles1 and dies out of place4--,puna has been attributed to the presence of arsenical vapor4 ,the sickness felt by some travelers at great elevations--violent headache and disposition to vomit--is called veta2 and the difficulty of breathing from the rarity of the air is termed puna4 ,gerard complained of severe headache and depression of spirits at the height of #ae1jjj feet on the ,himalayas2 ,dr4 ,barry1 in ascending ,mont ,blanc 7#ae1gjj feet71 speaks of great thirst1 great dryness and constriction of skin1 loss of appetite1 difficult breathing1 tendency to syncope1 and utter indifference4 ,baron ,mller1 in his ascent of ,orizava 7#ag1hjj feet71 found great difficulty in breathing1 and experienced the sensation of a red-hot iron searing his lungs1 and agonizing pains in the chest1 followed by fainting-fits and torrents of blood from his mouth2 ,humboldt1 in scaling ,chimborazo1 suffered from nausea akin to sea-sickness1 and a flow of blood from the nose and lips2 while ,herndon1 on the slope of ,puy-puy 7#ae1gjj feet71 said he thought his heart would break from his breast with its violent agitation4 ,though ascending the ,andes to the height of #af1jjj feet1 and running up the last few rods1 we experienced nothing of this except a temporary difficulty in respiration4 ,we were exhilarated rather than depressed4 ,the experience of ,darwin on the ,portillo ridge 7#ad1jjj feet7 was only a slight tightness across the head and chest4 ,there was some imagination even in this 7he adds72 for1 upon finding fossil shells on the highest ridge1 ,i entirely forgot the puna in my delight4 ,de ,saussure says truly3 ,the strength is repaired as speedily as it has been exhausted4 ,merely a cessation of movement for three or four minutes1 without even seating one's self1 seems to restore the strength so perfectly that1 on resuming progress1 one feels able to climb at a single stretch to the very peak of the mountain4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,astronomic ,virtues of ,quito4--,flora and ,fauna of the ,valley of ,quito4--,primeval ,inhabitants of the ,andes4--,quichua ,indians4 ,quito1 with a position unparalleled for astronomical purposes1 has no observatory4 ,the largest telescope in the city is about five feet long1 but the astute professor of natural philosophy in the ,jesuit ,college who has charge of it had not the most distant idea that an eclipse of the sun would occur on the #bith of ,august1 and an eclipse of the moon fifteen days later4 ,in ancient days this holy city had within it the ,pillar of the ,sun1 which cast no shadow at noon1 and a temple was built for the god of light4 ,the title of the sovereign ,inca was the ,child of the ,sun2 but there was very little knowledge of astronomy1 for1 being the national religion1 it was beyond the reach of scientific speculation4 ,the atmosphere of ,quito is of transparent clearness4 ,humboldt saw the poncho of a horseman with the naked eye at a horizontal distance of ninety thousand feet4 ,the sky is of a dark indigo color2 the azure is less blended with white because of the extreme dryness of the air4 ,the stars stand out with uncommon brilliancy1 and the dark openings between them the great ,german compared to tubes through which we look into the remotest depths of space4 ,it is true at ,quito1 as ,humboldt noticed at ,cumana1 that the stars do not twinkle when they are more than fifteen degrees high2 the soft planetary light of the stars overhead is not mere rhetoric4 ,living under the equatorial line1 ,quitonians enjoy the peculiar privilege of beholding the stars of both hemispheres1 the guiding stars of ,ursa ,major as well as the ,magellanic ,clouds and ,southern ,cross1 not omitting that black spot near the latter1 the unappropriated region in the skies reserved by ,manager ,bingham for deposed ,american presidents4 ,the zodiacal light here appears in all its glory4 ,this strange phenomenon has long puzzled philosophers1 and they are still divided4 ,it is generally considered to be produced by a continuous zone of infinitesimal asteroids4 ,the majority place this zone beyond the orbit of the earth1 and concentric with the sun4 ,but ,rev4 ,george ,jones1 of ,philadelphia1 who has spent several years in observing this light1 including eight months in ,quito1 considers it geocentric1 and possibly situated between the earth and its satellite4 ,at ,new ,york only a short pyramidal light1 and this only at certain seasons1 is to be seen2 but here1 an arch twenty degrees wide1 and of considerable intensity1 shoots up to the zenith1 and ,mr4 ,jones affirms that a complete arch is visible at midnight when the ecliptic is at right angles to the spectator's horizon4 ,we have not been so fortunate as to see it pass the zenith2 and ,professor ,barnard contends that it never does pass4 ,we may remark that the main part of the zodiacal light shifts to the south side of the celestial equator as we cross the line4 ,to us the most magnificent sight in the tropical heavens is the ,milky ,way1 especially near ,sobieski's ,shield1 where it is very luminous4 ,we observed that this starry tract divided at ,greek3 a ,centauri1 as ,herschel says1 and not at ,greek3 b1 as many maps and globes have it4 ,the brightest stars in the southern hemisphere follow the direction of a great circle passing through ,greek3 e ,orionis and ,greek3 a ,crucis4 ,another thing which arrests the attention of the traveler is the comparatively well-defined boundary-line between day and night4 ,the twilight at ,quito lasts only an hour and a half2 on the coast it is still shorter4 ,nor is there any harvest moon1 the satellite rising with nearly equal intervals of forty-eight minutes4 ,from the stars we step down to the floral kingdom on the ,andes1 using as our ladder of descent the following sentence from ,humboldt1 at the age of seventy-five3 ,if ,i might be allowed to abandon myself to the recollections of my own distant travels1 ,i would instance among the most striking scenes of nature the calm sublimity of a tropical night1 when the stars--not sparkling1 as in our ,northern skies--shed their soft and planetary light over the gently heaving ocean2 or ,i would recall the deep valleys of the ,cordilleras1 where the tall and slender palms pierce the leafy veil around them1 and wave on high their feathery and arrow-like branches4 ,father ,velasco praises ,ecuador as the noblest portion of the ,new ,world4 ,nature has doubtless gifted it with capabilities unsurpassed by those of any other country4 ,situated on the equinoctial line1 and embracing within its limits some of the highest as well as lowest dry land on the globe1 it presents every grade of climate1 from the perpetual summer on the coast and in the ,orient to the everlasting winter of the ,andean summits1 while the high plateau between the ,cordilleras enjoys an eternal spring4 ,the vegetable productions are consequently most varied and prolific4 ,tropical1 temperate1 and arctic fruits and flowers are here found in profusion1 or could be successfully cultivated4 ,as the ,ecuadorian sees all the constellations of the firmament1 so ,nature surrounds him with representatives of every family of plants4 ,there are places where the eye may embrace an entire zone1 for it may look up to a barley-field and potato-patch1 and down to the sugar-cane and pine-apple4 ,confining our attention to the ,quito ,valley1 we remark that the whole region from ,pichincha to ,chimborazo is as treeless as ,palestine4 ,the densest forest is near ,baos4 ,the most common tree is the ,aliso 7,betula acuminata74 ,walnut is the best timber4 ,there are no pines or oaks4#cg ,the slopes of the mountains1 between twelve and fifteen thousand feet1 are clothed with a shrub peculiar to the high altitudes of the ,andes1 called ,chuquiragua4 ,this is a very valuable shrub2 the twigs are used for fuel1 and the yellow buds as a febrifuge4 ,the castor-oil-tree grows naturally by the road side1 sometimes to the height of twelve feet4 ,footnote #cg3 ,on the ,himalayas are oaks1 birches1 pines1 chestnuts1 maples1 junipers1 and willows2 no tree-ferns1 bamboos1 or palms4 ,a very useful as well as the most ordinary plant in the valley is the ,american aloe1 or ,century ,plant4#ch ,it is the largest of all herbs4 ,not naturally social1 it imparts a melancholy character to the landscape as it rises solitary out of the arid plain4 ,most of the roads are fenced with aloe hedges4 ,while the majority of tropical trees have naked stems with a crown of leaves on the top1 the aloe reverses this1 and looks like a great chandelier as its tall peduncle1 bearing greenish-yellow flowers1 rises out of a graceful cluster of long1 thick1 fleshy leaves4 ,when cultivated1 the aloe flowers in much less time than a century2 but1 exhausted by the efflorescence1 it soon dies4 ,nearly every part serves some purpose2 the broad leaves are used by the poorer class instead of paper in writing1 or for thatching their huts2 sirup flows out of the leaves when tapped1 and1 as they contain much alkali1 a soap 7which lathers with salt water as well as fresh7 is also manufactured from them2 the flowers make excellent pickles2 the flower-stalk is used in building2 the pith of the stem is used by barbers for sharpening razors2 the fibres of the leaves and the roots are woven into sandals and sacks2 and the sharp spines are used as needles4 ,a species of yucca1 resembling the aloe1 but with more slender leaves and of a lighter green1 yields the hemp of ,ecuador4 ,footnote #ch3 ,the ,agava ,americana of botanists1 cabulla of ,ecuadorians1 maguey of ,venezuelans1 and metl of ,mexicans4 ,it is an interesting fact1 brought to light by the researches of ,carl ,neuman1 that the ,chinese in the fifth century passed over to ,america by way of the ,aleutian ,islands1 and penetrated as far south as ,mexico1 which they called the land of fusung1 that being the celestial name of the aloe4 ,terzozomoc1 the high-priest of the ancient ,mexicans1 gave aloe leaves1 inscribed with sacred characters1 to persons who had to journey among the volcanoes1 to protect them from injury4 ,the crack fruit of ,quito1 and1 in fact1 of ,south ,america1 is the chirimoya4#ci ,its taste is a happy mixture of sweetness and acidity4 ,hanke calls it a masterwork of ,nature1 and ,markham pronounces it a spiritualized strawberry4 ,it grows on a tree about fifteen feet high1 having a broad1 flat top1 and very fragrant flowers4 ,the ripe fruit1 often attaining in ,peru the weight of sixteen pounds1 has a thick green skin1 and a snow-white pulp containing about seventy black seeds4 ,other pomological productions are alligator pears1 guavas1 guayavas1 granadillas1 cherries 7a small black variety71 peaches 7very poor71 pears 7equally bad71 plums1 quinces1 lemons1 oranges 7not native71 blackberries1 and strawberries 7large1 but flavorless74#dj ,the cultivation of the grape has just commenced4 ,of vegetables there are onions 7in cookery1 the first1 and last1 and midst1 and without end71 beets1 carrots1 asparagus1 lettuce1 cabbages1 turnips1 tomatoes 7indigenous1 but inferior to ours71 potatoes 7also indigenous1 but much smaller than their descendants71#da red peppers1 peas 7always picked ripe1 while green ones are imported from ,france671 beans1 melons1 squashes1 and mushrooms4 ,the last are eaten to a limited extent2 ,terra del ,fuego1 says ,darwin1 is the only country in the world where a cryptogamic plant affords a staple article of food4 ,footnote #ci3 ,bollaert derives the name from chiri 7cold7 and muhu 7seed74 ,footnote #dj3 ,dr4 ,jameson has found the following species of ,rubus in the valley of ,quito3 macrocarpus1 stipularis1 glabratus1 compactus1 glaucus1 rosflorus1 loxensis1 urticfolius1 floribundus1 and nubigenus4 ,the common strawberry1 ,fragaria vesca1 grows in the valley1 as also the ,chilensis4 ,footnote #da3 ,lieutenant ,gilliss praises the potatoes of ,peru1 but we saw no specimens in ,ecuador worthy of note4 ,the ,irish potato is a native of the ,andes4 ,it was unknown to the early ,mexicans4 ,it grows as far south on this continent as lat4 #ej4 ,the ,spaniards carried the potato to ,europe from ,quito early in the sixteenth century4 ,from ,spain it traveled to ,italy1 ,belgium1 and ,germany4 ,sir ,walter ,raleigh imported some from ,virginia in #aehf1 and planted them on his estate near ,cork1 ,ireland4 ,it is raised in ,asiatic countries only where ,europeans have settled1 and for their consumption4 ,it is successfully grown in ,australia and ,new ,zealand1 where there is no native esculent farinaceous root4 ,von ,tschudi says there is no word in ,quichua for potato4 ,it is called papa by the ,napos4 ,the most important grains are barley1 red wheat1 and corn1 with short ears1 and elongated kernels of divers colors4 ,near the coast three crops of corn a year are obtained2 at ,quito it is of slower growth1 but fuller4 ,the sugar-cane is grown sparingly in the valley1 but chiefly on the ,pacific coast4 ,its home is ,polynesia4 ,quito consumes about one hundred and fifty barrels of flour daily4 ,the best sells for four dollars a quintal4 ,the common fodder for cattle is alfalfa1 an imported lucerne4 ,there is no clover except a wild1 worthless1 three-leaved species 7,trifolium amabile74 ,nearly all in the above list are cultivated for home consumption only1 and many valuable fruits and vegetables which would grow well are unknown to ,quitonians4 ,as ,bates says of the ,brazilians1 the incorrigible nonchalance and laziness of the people alone prevent them from surrounding themselves with all the luxuries of a temperate as well as tropical country4 ,it would be an endless task to speak of the flowers4 ,it must suffice to state that a ,synopsis ,plantarum quatoriensium1 the life-work of the venerable ,professor ,jameson1 of the ,university of ,quito1 has just been published by the tardy government4 ,botanists will find in these two small volumes many new species unknown to ,american science1 and others more correctly described by one who has dwelt forty years among the ,andes4 ,the last zone of vegetation nearest the snow-line consists chiefly of yellow-flowering ,composit4 ,in fact1 this family includes one fourth of the plants in the immediate vicinity of ,quito4 ,the next most numerous family is the ,labiat1 and then follow ,leguminos and ,gentians4 ,although the ,rosace is represented1 there is not one species of the genus ,rosa not even in the whole southern hemisphere4 ,the magnificent ,befaria1 found in the lower part of the valley1 is called the ,rose of the ,andes4 ,fuchsias may be considered characteristic of ,south ,america1 since they are so numerous2 only one or two kinds occur in any other part of the world4 ,flowers are found in ,quito all the year round1 but the most favorable months are ,december and ,may4 ,yellow is the predominating color4 ,the higher the altitude1 the brighter the hues of any given species4 ,thus the ,gentiana sedifolia is a small1 light blue flower in the lowlands1 but on the ,assuay it has bright blue petals three times as large and sensitive4 ,this accords with ,herschel's statement3 ,the chemical rays of the spectrum are powerfully absorbed in passing through the atmosphere1 and the effect of their greater abundance aloft is shown in the superior brilliancy of color in the flowers of ,alpine regions4 ,america is plainly the continent of vegetation2 and wherever the vegetable element predominates1 the animal is subordinated4 ,we must not look1 therefore1 for a large amount or variety of animal life in the ,ecuadorian forests4 ,time was when colossal megatheroids1 mastodons1 and glyptodons browsed on the foliage of the ,andes and the ,amazon2 but now the terrestrial mammals of this tropical region are few and diminutive4 ,they are likewise old-fashioned1 inferior in type as well as bulk to those of the eastern hemisphere1 for ,america was a finished continent long before ,europe4 ,it seems most probable 7says ,darwin7 that the ,north ,american elephants1 mastodons1 horse1 and hollow-horned ruminants migrated1 on land since submerged near ,behring's ,straits1 from ,siberia into ,north ,america1 and thence1 on land since submerged in the ,west ,indies1 into ,south ,america1 where for a time they mingled with the forms characteristic of that southern continent1 and have since become extinct4#db ,the rise of the ,mexican table-land split up the ,new ,world into two well-defined zoological provinces4 ,a few species1 as the puma1 peccari1 and opossum1 have crossed the barrier2 but ,south ,america is characterized by possessing a family of monkeys1 the llama1 tapir1 many peculiar rodents1 and several genera of edentates4 ,footnote #db3 ,journal of ,researches1 p4 #acb4 ,the tapir1 the largest native quadruped1 is sometimes found on the mountains1 but never descends into the ,quito ,valley4 ,a link between the elephant and hog1 its true home is in the lowlands4 ,the tapir and peccari 7also found on the ,andean slopes7 are the only indigenous pachyderms in ,south ,america1 while the llama#dc and deer 7both abounding in the valley7 are the only native ruminants2 there is not one native hollow-horned ruminant on the continent4 ,the llama is the only native domesticated animal2 indeed1 ,south ,america never furnished any other animal serviceable to man3 the horse1 ox1 hog1 and sheep 7two1 four1 and six-horned71 are importations4 ,of these animals1 which rendered such important aid in the early civilization of ,asia and ,europe1 the genera even were unknown in ,south ,america four centuries ago2 and to-day pure ,indians with difficulty acquire a taste for beef1 mutton1 and pork4 ,the llama is still used as a beast of burden2 but it seldom carries a quintal more than twelve miles a day4 ,the black bear of the ,andes ascends as high as ,mont ,blanc1 and is rarely found below three thousand five hundred feet4 ,the puma1 or maneless ,american lion1 has an immense range1 both in latitude and altitude1 being found from ,oregon to the ,straits of ,magellan1 and nearly up to the limit of eternal snow4 ,it is as cowardly as the jaguar of the lowlands is ferocious4 ,it is a very silent animal1 uttering no cry even when wounded4 ,its flesh1 which is very white1 and remarkably like veal in taste1 is eaten in ,patagonia4 ,squirrels1 hares1 bats 7a small species71 opossums1 and a large guinea-pig 7,cuye del ,monte71 are found in the neighborhood of ,quito4 ,footnote #dc3 ,the llama1 or mountain-camel is a beautiful animal1 with long1 slender neck and fine legs1 a graceful carriage1 pointed ears1 soft1 restless eyes1 and quivering lips4 ,it has a gentle disposition2 but when angry it will spit1 and when hurt will shed tears4 ,we have seen specimens entirely white2 but it is generally dark brown1 with patches of white4 ,it requires very little food and drink4 ,since the introduction of horses1 asses1 and mules1 the rearing of llamas has decreased4 ,they are more common in ,peru4 ,the llama1 gunaco1 alpaca1 and vicua were the four sheep of the ,incas3 the first clothing the common people1 the second the nobles1 the third the royal governors1 the fourth the ,incas4 ,the price of sheep's wool in ,quito was formerly four cents a pound2 it is now twelve4 ,as only about sixty species of birds are common to ,north and ,south ,america1 the traveler from the ,united ,states recognizes few ornithic forms in the ,valley of ,quito4 ,save the hummers1 beautiful plumage is rare1 as well as fine songsters4 ,but the moment we descend the ,eastern ,cordillera into the interior of the continent1 we find the feathered race in robes of richest colors4 ,the exact cause of this brilliant coloring in the tropics is still a problem4 ,it can not be owing to greater light and heat1 for the birds of the ,galpagos ,islands1 directly under the equator1 are dull4#dd ,footnote #dd3 ,mr4 ,gould1 however1 holds that the difference of coloration is due to the different degrees of exposure to the sun's rays1 the brilliantly-colored species being inhabitants of the edges of the forest4 ,birds from ,ucayali1 in the centre of the continent1 are far more splendid than those which represent them in countries nearer the sea1 owing to the clearer atmosphere inland4 ,but it is a fact1 at least exceptional to this theory1 that the ,cock of the ,rock 7,rupicola7 on the western side of the ,andes 7,esmeraldas7 is of a richer1 deeper color than the same species on the eastern slope 7,napo74 ,in keeping with ,mr4 ,gould's theory is the statement by ,mr4 ,bates1 that the most gaudy butterflies 7the males7 flutter in the sunshine4 ,the males1 both of birds and butterflies1 are the most gaudily dressed4 ,in the highlands the most prominent birds are the condor and the humming-bird4 ,these two extremes in size are found side by side on the summit of ,pichincha4 ,the condor appears in its glory among the mountains of ,quito4 ,its ordinary haunt is at the height of ,etna4 ,no other living creature can remove at pleasure to so great a distance from the earth2 and it seems to fly and respire as easily under the low barometric pressure of thirteen inches as at the sea-shore4 ,it can dart in an instant from the dome of ,chimborazo to the sultry coast of the ,pacific4 ,it has not the kingly port of the eagle1 and is a cowardly robber3 a true vulture1 it prefers the relish of putrescence and the flavor of death4 ,it makes no nest1 but lays two eggs on a jutting ledge of some precipice1 and fiercely defends them4 ,the usual spread of wings is nine feet4 ,it does not live in pairs like the eagle1 but feeds in flocks like its loathsome relative1 the buzzard4 ,it is said to live forty days without food in captivity1 but at liberty it is very voracious4 ,the usual method of capture is to kill an old mare 7better than horse1 the natives say71 and allow the bird to gorge himself1 when he becomes so sluggish as to be easily lassoed4 ,it is such a heavy sleeper1 it is possible to take it from its roost4 ,the evidences in favor of and against its acute smelling powers are singularly balanced4 ,for reasons unknown1 the condor does not range north of ,darien1 though it extends its empire through clouds and storms to the ,straits of ,magellan4 ,in the ,inca language it was called cuntur1 and was anciently an object of worship4 ,the condor1 gallinazo1 turkey-buzzard1 and caracara eagle 7says ,darwin7 in their habits well supply the place of our carrion crows1 magpies1 and ravens--a tribe of birds widely distributed over the rest of the world1 but entirely absent in ,south ,america4 ,the condor appears on the gold coins of ,new ,granada and ,chile4 ,of ,trochilid there are hosts4 ,the valley swarms with these winged jewels of varied hues1 from the emerald green of ,pichincha to the white of ,chimborazo4 ,they build long1 purse-like nests by weaving together fine vegetable fibres and lichens1 and thickly lining them with silk-cotton4 ,in this delicate cradle1 suspended from a branch1 the female lays two eggs1 which are hatched in about twelve days4 ,the eggs are invariably white1 with one exception1 those of a species on the ,upper ,amazon1 which are spotted4 ,the young have much shorter bills than their parents4 ,the humming-bird is exclusively ,american3 the nearest form in the ,old ,world is the nectarinia1 or sunbird4 ,other birds most commonly seen in the valley are3 ,cyanocitta turcosa 7,jay71 ,poecilothraupis atrierissa1 ,pheuticus chrysogaster1 ,chlorospingus superciliaris1 ,buthraupis chloronata1 ,tanagra ,darwini1 ,dubusia selysia1 ,buarremon latinuchus1 and ,b4 assimilis4 ,the only geese in the valley are a few imported from ,europe by ,seor ,aguirre1 of ,chillo1 and these refuse to propagate4 ,reptiles are so rare in the highlands the class can hardly be said to be represented4 ,during a residence of nearly three months in the ,quito ,valley we saw but one snake4#de ,nevertheless1 we find the following sentence in such a respectable book as ,bohn's ,hand-book of ,modern ,geography3 ,the inhabitants of ,quito are dreadfully tormented by reptiles1 which it is scarcely possible to keep out of the beds6 ,of frogs there are not enough to get up a choir1 and of fishes there is but one solitary species1 about a finger long4#df ,the entomology of ,quito is also brief1 much to the satisfaction of travelers from the insectiferous coast4 ,musquitoes and bedbugs do not seem to enjoy life at such an altitude1 and jiggers#dg and flies are rare4 ,fleas1 however1 have the hardihood to exist and bite in the summer months1 and if you attend an ,indian fair you will be likely to feel something gently o'er you creeping4 ,but fleas and lice are the only blood-thirsty animals1 so that the great ,valley of ,quito is an almost painless paradise4 ,of beetles and butterflies there are a few species1 the latter belonging for the most part to the familiar ,north ,american genera ,pyrameis and ,colias4 ,at ,vinces1 on the coast1 we found the pretty brown butterfly1 ,anartia ,jatroph1 which ranges from ,texas to ,brazil4 ,a light-colored coleopter is eaten roasted by the inhabitants4 ,the cochineal is raised in the southern part of the valley1 particularly in ,guananda1 at the foot of ,tunguragua1 where the small1 flat-leaved cactus 7,opuntia tuna71 on which1 the insect feeds1 is extensively cultivated4 ,the male is winged1 but the female is stationary1 fixed to the cactus1 and is of a dark brown color4 ,it takes seventy thousand to make a pound1 which is sold in the valley for from sixty cents to #c4 ,the best cochineal comes from ,teneriffe1 where it was introduced from ,honduras in #ahce4 ,the silk-worm is destined to work a revolution in the finances of ,ecuador2 ,quito silk gained a gold medal at the ,paris ,exhibition4 ,no bees are hived in the republic2 the people seem to be content with treacle4 ,the ,italian species would undoubtedly thrive here4 ,the bees of ,ecuador1 like all the bees of the ,new ,world1 are inferior to those of the ,old ,world4 ,their cells are not perfectly hexagonal1 and their stings are undeveloped4 ,they are seldom seen feeding on flowers4 ,mollusca in the ,quito ,valley are not great in number or variety4 ,they belong principally to the genera ,bulimus1 ,cyclostoma1 and ,helix4 ,the first is as characteristic of the ,southern ,continent as ,helix of the ,north and ,achatina of ,africa4 ,footnote #de3 ,herpetodryas carinatus1 which we observed also at ,guayaquil and on the ,maraon4 ,we procured two or three species from the natives1 and several new forms from ,pallatanga1 on the west slope4 ,footnote #df3 ,antelopus lvis at ,ambato1 and ,a4 longirostris1 a new species from ,antisana ,hacienda1 were the only frogs noticed4 ,the little fish is ,pimelodes cyclopum 7preadilla of the ,spaniards1 imba of the ,indians71 the same that was thrown out in the eruptions of ,imbabura and ,caraguairazo4 ,footnote #dg3 ,the jigger1 chigoe1 or nigua 7,pulex penetrans of science7 is a microscopic flea1 that buries itself under the skin and lays a myriad eggs2 the result is a painful tumor4 ,jiggers are almost confined to sandy places4 ,from the animal creation we mount by a short step to the imbruted ,indian4 ,when and by whom the ,andes were first peopled is a period of darkness that lies beyond the domain of history4 ,but geology and archology are combining to prove that ,sorata and ,chimborazo have looked down upon a civilization far more ancient than that of the ,incas1 and perhaps coeval with the flint-flakes of ,cornwall1 and the shell-mounds of ,denmark4 ,on the shores of ,lake ,titicaca are extensive ruins which antedate the advent of ,manco ,capac1 and may be as venerable as the lake-dwellings of ,geneva4 ,wilson has traced six terraces in going up from the sea through the province of ,esmeraldas toward ,quito2 and underneath the living forest1 which is older than the ,spanish invasion1 many gold1 copper1 and stone vestiges of a lost population were found4 ,in all cases these relics are situated below high-tide mark1 in a bed of marine sediment1 from which he infers that this part of the country formerly stood higher above the sea4 ,if this be true1 vast must be the antiquity of these remains1 for the upheaval and subsidence of the coast is exceedingly slow4 ,philology can aid us little in determining the relations of the primeval ,quitonians1 for their language is nearly obscured by changes introduced by the ,caras1 and afterward by the ,incas1 who decreed that the ,quichua1 the language of elegance and fashion three hundred years ago1 should be the universal tongue throughout the empire4#dh ,quichua is to-day spoken from the equator to #bh ,s4 7except by the ,aymar people71 or by nearly a million and a half4 ,we found it used1 corrupted1 however1 by ,spanish1 at the month of the ,napo4 ,there are five dialects1 of which the purest is spoken in ,cuzco1 and the most impure in ,quito4 ,the ,indians of the northern valley are descendants of the ancient ,quitus1 modified by ,cara and ,peruvian blood4 ,they have changed little since the invasion of ,pizarro4 ,they remember their glory under the ,incas1 and when they steal any thing from a white man1 they say they are not guilty of theft1 as they are only taking what originally belonged to them4 ,some see in their sacred care of ,incarial relics a lingering hope to regain their political life4 ,we noticed that the pure mountaineers1 without a trace of ,spanish adulteration1 wore a black poncho underneath1 and we were informed by one well acquainted with their customs that this was in mourning for the ,inca4 ,we attended an ,indian masquerade dance at ,machachi1 which seemed to have an historical meaning4 ,it was performed in full view of that romantic mountain which bears the name of the last captain of ,atahuallpa4 ,there is a tradition that after the death of his chief1 ,rumiagui burned the capital1 and1 retiring with his followers to this cordillera1 threw himself from the precipice4 ,the masquerade at ,machachi was evidently intended to keep alive the memory of the ,incas4 ,three ,indians1 fantastically adorned with embroidered garments1 plumed head-dresses1 and gold and silver tinsel1 representing ,atahuallpa and his generals1 danced to music of the rudest kind1 one individual pounding on a drum and blowing on a pipe at the same time4 ,before them went three clowns1 or diablos1 with masks1 fit caricatures of the ,spaniards4 ,like all other ,indian feasts1 this ended in getting gradually and completely drunk4 ,during the ceremony a troop of horsemen1 gayly dressed1 and headed by one in regimentals with a cocked hat1 galloped twice around the ,plaza1 throwing oranges at the people2 after which there was a bull-bait4 ,footnote #dh3 ,history 7says ,prescott7 furnishes few examples of more absolute authority than such a revolution in the language of an empire at the bidding of a master4 ,the pronunciation of ,quichua requires a harsh1 explosive utterance4 ,gibbon says the sound of it to him resembled ,welsh or ,irish2 that of ,aymar1 ,english4 ,the letters b1 d1 f1 g1 and o are wanting in the ancient tongue of ,quito2 p was afterward changed to b1 t to d1 v to f1 c to g1 and u to o3 thus ,chim-pu-razu is now ,chimborazo4 ,a few words bear a striking analogy to corresponding ,sanscrit words2 as ,ynti1 the ,inca for sun1 and ,indra1 the ,hindoo god of the heavens4 ,the features of the ,quichuans have a peculiar cast1 which resembles1 in ,d',orbigny's opinion1 no other ,american but the ,mexican1 and some ethnologists trace a striking similarity to the natives of ,van ,diemen's ,land4 ,they have an oblong head 7longitudinally71 somewhat compressed at the sides and occiput2 short and very slightly arched forehead2 prominent1 long1 aquiline nose1 with large nostrils2 large mouth1 but not thick lips2 beautiful enduring teeth2 short chin1 but not receding2 cheek-bones not prominent2 eyes horizontal1 and never large2 eyebrows long2 thick1 straight1 coarse1 yet soft jet black hair2 little or no beard2 a long1 broad1 deep1 highly-arched chest2 small hands and feet2 short stature1 seldom reaching five feet1 and the women still shorter2 a mulatto color 7olive-brown says ,d',orbigny1 bronze says ,humboldt71 and a sad1 serious expression4 ,their broad chests and square shoulders remind one of the gorilla2 but we find that1 unlike the anthropoid ape1 they have very weak arms2 their strength lies in their backs and legs4 ,they have shrewdness and penetration1 but lack independence and force4 ,we never heard one sing4#di ,always submissive to your face1 taking off his hat as he passes1 and muttering1 ,blessed be the altar of ,god1 he is nevertheless very slow to perform4 ,soured by long ill treatment1 he will hardly do any thing unless he is compelled4 ,and he will do nothing well unless he is treated as a slave4 ,treat him kindly1 and you make him a thief2 whip him1 and he will rise up to thank you and he your humble servant4 ,a certain curate could never trust his ,indian to carry important letters until he had given him twenty-five lashes4 ,servile and timid1 superstitious and indolent1 the ,quichuans have not half the spirit of our ,north ,american ,indians4 ,it has passed into a proverb that the ,indian lives without shame1 eats without repugnance1 and dies without fear4 ,abject as they are1 however1 they are not wholly without wit4 ,by a secret telegraph system1 they will communicate between ,quito and ,riobamba in one hour4 ,when there was a battle in ,pasto1 the ,indians of ,riobamba knew of it two hours after1 though eighty leagues distant4 ,footnote #di3 ,their favorite musical instrument is the rondador1 a number of reeds of different lengths tied in a row4 ,the plaintive national songs which ,markham heard at ,cuzco are not sung in ,ecuador4 ,the civilization of ,south ,america three centuries ago was nearly confined to this ,andean family1 though they had attained only to the bronze period4 ,in the milder character of their ancient religion and gentleness of disposition they are strongly distinguished from the nations that encircled the vale of ,anahuac1 the centre of civilization on the northern continent4 ,but little of this former glory is now apparent4 ,the ,incas reached an astronomical knowledge which astonished the ,spaniards1 but the ,quichuans of to-day count vaguely by moons and rains4 ,great is the contrast between the architecture of this century and that in the days of ,huayna-,capac4 ,there are few ,incarial relics1 however1 in the ,valley of ,quito1 for the ,incas ruled there only half a century4 ,the chief monuments are the tolas or mounds 7mostly at ,cuenca71 containing earthen vessels and bronze hatchets and earrings2 the ,inga-pirrca1 or oval fortress1 and the ,intihuaicu1 or temple of the sun1 near ,caar2 the ,inga-chungana1 a massive stone resembling a sofa1 where the ,inca reposed to enjoy the delightful prospect over the ,valley of ,guln2 and remnants of causeways and roads4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,geological ,history of ,south ,america4--,rise of the ,andes4--,creation of the ,amazon4--,characteristic ,features of the ,continent4--,andean ,chain4--,the ,equatorial ,volcanoes4 ,three cycles ago an island rose from the sea where now expands the vast continent of ,south ,america4 ,it was the culminating point of the highlands of ,guiana4 ,for ages this granite peak was the solo representative of dry land in our hemisphere south of the ,canada hills4 ,in process of time1 a cluster of islands rose above the thermal waters4 ,they were the small beginnings of the future mountains of ,brazil1 holding in their laps the diamonds which now sparkle in the crown of ,dom ,pedro ,,ii4 ,long protracted eons elapsed without adding a page to the geology of ,south ,america4 ,the ,creator seems to have been busy elsewhere4 ,decorating the north with the gorgeous flora of the carboniferous period1 till1 in the language of ,hugh ,miller1 to distant planets our earth must have shone with a green and delicate ray1 he rubbed the picture out1 and ushered in the hideous reptilian age1 when monstrous saurians1 footed1 paddled1 and winged1 were the lords of this lower world4 ,all the great mountain chains were at this time slumbering beneath the ocean4 ,the city of ,new ,york was sure of its site2 but huge dinotheria wallowed in the mire where now stand the palaces of ,paris1 ,london1 and ,vienna4 ,at length the morning breaks upon the last day of creation1 and the fiat goes forth that the proud waves of the ,pacific1 which have so long washed the table-lands of ,guiana and ,brazil1 shall be stayed4 ,far away toward the setting sun the white surf beats in long lines of foam against a low1 winding archipelago--the western outline of the coming continent4 ,fierce is the fight for the mastery between sea and land1 between the denuding power of the waves and the volcanic forces underneath4 ,but slowly--very slowly1 yet surely--rises the long chain of islands by a double process2 the submarine crust of the earth is cooling1 and the rocks are folded up as it shrivels1 while the molten material within1 pressed out through the crevices1 overflows and helps to build up the sea-defiant wall4 ,a man's life would be too short to count even the centuries consumed in this operation4 ,the coast of ,peru has risen eighty feet since it felt the tread of ,pizarro3 supposing the ,andes to have risen at this rate uniformly and without interruption1 seventy thousand years must have elapsed before they reached their present altitude4 ,but when we consider that1 in fact1 it was an intermittent movement--alternate upheaval and subsidence--we must add an unknown number of millennia4 ,three times the ,andes sank hundreds of feet beneath the ocean level1 and again were slowly brought up to their present height4 ,the suns of uncounted ages have risen and set upon these sculptured forms1 though geologically recent1 casting the same line of shadows century after century4 ,a long succession of brute races roamed over the mountains and plains of ,south ,america1 and died out ages ere man was created4 ,in those pre-,adamite times1 long before the ,incas ruled1 the mastodon and megatherium1 the horse and the tapir1 dwelt in the high valley of ,quito2 yet all these passed away before the arrival of the aborigines3 the wild horses now feeding on the pampas of ,buenos ,ayres were imported from ,europe three hundred and thirty-three years ago4#ej ,footnote #ej3 ,at ,paita1 the most western point of ,south ,america1 there is a raised beach three hundred feet high4 ,the basal slate and sandstone rocks1 dipping ,s4 of ,e41 are covered by conglomerate1 sand1 and a gypseous formation1 containing shells of living species4 ,additional to those described by ,d',orbigny we found here ,cerithium lviuscula1 ,ostrea gallus1 and ,ampullina ,ortoni1 as determined by ,w4,m4 ,gabb1 ,esq41 of ,philadelphia4 ,darwin found shells in ,chile #acjj feet above the sea1 covered with marine mud4 ,president ,loomis1 of ,lewisburg ,university1 ,pa41 informs the writer1 that in #ahec1 after nearly a day's ride from ,iquique1 he came to a former sea-beach4 ,it furnished abundant specimens of ,patell and other shells1 still perfect1 and identical with others that ,i had that morning obtained at ,iquique with the living animal inhabiting them4 ,this beach is elevated #bejj feet above the ,pacific4 ,the same observer says that near ,potosi there is one uninterrupted mass of lava1 having a columnar structure1 not less than one hundred miles in length1 fifty miles wide1 and eight hundred feet thick4 ,it overlies a bed of saliferous sandstone which has been worked for salt4 ,fifty feet within a mine1 and in the undisturbed rock which forms its roof1 the doctor found fragments of dicotyledonous trees with the bark on1 undecomposed1 uncharred1 and fibrous4 ,and now the ,andes#ea stand complete in their present gigantic proportions1 one of the grandest and most symmetrical mountain chains in the world4 ,starting from the ,land of ,fire1 it stretches northward and mounts upward until it enters the ,isthmus of ,panama1 where it bows gracefully to either ocean1 but soon resumes1 under another name1 its former majesty1 and loses its magnificence only where the trappers chase the fur-bearing animals over the ,arctic plains4 ,nowhere else does ,nature present such a continuous and lofty chain of mountains1 unbroken for eight thousand miles1 save where it is rent asunder by the ,magellanic ,straits1 and proudly tossing up a thousand pinnacles into the region of eternal snow4 ,nowhere in the ,old ,world do we see a single well-defined mountain chain1 only a broad belt of mountainous country traversing the heart of the continent4 ,footnote #ea3 ,the name ,andes is often derived from anta1 an old ,peruvian word signifying metal4 ,but ,humboldt says3 ,there are no means of interpreting it by connecting it with any signification or idea2 if such connection exist1 it is buried in the obscurity of the past4 ,according to ,col4 ,tod1 the northern ,hindoos apply the name ,andes to the ,himalayan ,mountains4 ,the moment the ,andes arose1 the great continental valley of the ,amazon was sketched out and moulded in its lap4 ,the tidal waves of the ,atlantic were dashing against the ,cordilleras1 and a legion of rivulets were busily plowing up the sides into deep ravines2 the sediment produced by this incessant wear and tear was carried eastward1 and spread out stratum by stratum1 till the shallow sea between the ,andes and the islands of ,guiana and ,brazil was filled up with sand and clay4 ,huge glaciers 7thinks ,agassiz71 afterward descending1 moved over the inclined plane1 and ground the loose rock to powder4#eb ,eddies and currents1 throwing up sand-banks as they do now1 gradually defined the limits of the tributary streams1 and directed them into one main trunk1 which worked for itself a wide1 deep bed1 capable of containing its accumulated flood4 ,then and thus was created the ,amazon4 ,footnote #eb3 ,on this point see ,chapter ,,xvii4 ,in ,south ,america ,nature has framed her works on a gigantic scale4 ,where else combined do we see such a series of towering mountains1 such a volume of river-water1 and such wide-spreading plains8 ,we have no proper conception of ,andine grandeur till we learn that the top of the tallest mountain in ,north ,america is nearly a mile beneath the untrodden dome of ,chimborazo2 nor any just view of the vast dimensions of the ,amazonian ,valley till we find that all the ,united ,states could be packed in it without touching its boundaries2 nor any adequate idea of the ,amazon itself till we ascertain that it drains a million square miles more than the ,mississippi4 ,south ,america is a triangular continent1 with its axis1 the ,andes1 not central1 as in ,europe1 but lying on its extreme western edge1 and in harmony with the well-known law that the highest mountains and the grandest volcanoes face the broadest ocean4 ,the highlands of ,brazil and ,guiana have neither volcanic nor snow-clad peaks4#ec ,like all the dry land which first appeared1 these primitive mountains on the ,atlantic border trend east and west4 ,the result of this position is a triple river system--the ,orinoco1 ,amazon1 and ,la ,plata1 draining three immense plains--the llanos of ,venezuela1 the sylvas of ,brazil1 and the pampas of the ,argentine ,republic4 ,the continuity and extent of these vast depressions are more remarkable even than the height and length of the mountain chains4#ed ,footnote #ec3 ,the interior plateau of ,brazil 7says ,dr4 ,lund7 is composed of horizontal strata of the transition period1 which are nowhere covered with the secondary or tertiary formations4 ,the highest point in ,brazil is #egee feet4 ,darwin speaks of some ancient submarine volcanic rocks 7in the province of ,la ,plata7 worth mentioning1 from their rarity on this eastern side of the continent4 ,with the exception of the coast of ,venezuela1 the eastern system is little exposed to earthquakes4 ,footnote #ed3 ,these three plains constitute four fifths of all ,south ,america east of the ,andes4 ,the west slope of the ,ecuadorian ,andes is about #bge feet per mile2 on the east it is #abe feet4 ,such are the characteristic features of ,south ,america2 they are not repeated in any other continent4#ee ,not one feature could be changed without destroying those peculiarities of soil and climate which so remarkably distinguish ,south ,america4 ,its position on the equator places it in the path of the vapory trade winds1 which continually sweep over it westward till they strike the ,andes1 which1 like a great condenser1 roll a thousand streams eastward again to feed the mighty ,amazon4 ,so effectual is that barrier1 not a drop of moisture passes it1 and the trade wind is not felt again on the ,pacific till you are one hundred and fifty miles from the coast4 ,were the ,andes on the ,atlantic side1 ,south ,america would be turned into a vast ,sahara4 ,as it is1 the interest which attaches to this continent1 save a few relics of the ,incas1 is exclusively that of pure nature4 ,nowhere does ,nature affect us more deeply with the feeling of her grandeur2 nowhere does she exhibit wilder freaks or more startling contrasts2 nowhere do we find such a theatre for the free development of vegetable and animal life4 ,footnote #ee3 ,there is1 however1 a striking coincidence between the mountain and river systems of the northern and southern continents of this hemisphere4 ,thus1 ,the ,andes represent the ,rocky ,mountains1 ,highland of ,guiana represent the ,canadian ,mountains4 ,brazil ,appalachian ,amazon ,saskatchewan4 ,la ,plata ,mississippi4 ,orinoco ,mackenzie4 ,the long and lofty chain of the ,andes is certainly one of the grandest results of the plications and uplifts of the earth's crust4 ,while the waves of the ,pacific1 from ,panama to ,patagonia1 submissively kiss the feet of the ,andes1 and the showers that swell the ,amazon fall within sight of the mariner on that peaceful ocean1 the ,rocky ,mountains are situated five hundred miles from the sea4 ,the space west of the ,andes does not contain #bj1jjj square leagues1 while the country east of it equals #dbd1fjj4 ,while the compact ,andes have an average width of only sixty miles1#ef the straggling mountain system beyond the ,mississippi has the breadth of the ,empire ,state2 but the mean elevation of the latter would scarcely reach the bottom of the ,quito ,valley4 ,the mountains of ,asia may surpass the ,cordilleras in height1 but1 situated beyond the tropics1 and destitute of volcanoes1 they do not present that inexhaustible variety of phenomena which characterizes the latter4 ,the outbursts of porphyry and trachytic domes1 so characteristic of the high crests of the ,cordilleras1 impart a physiognomy quite distinct from that presented by the mountains of ,europe4 ,the ,andes offer1 in the least space1 the greatest possible variety of impressions4#eg ,there is near ,huanca1 ,peru1 a coal-bed lifted up to the enormous height of #ad1gjj feet1 and on the side of ,chimborazo there is a salt spring #ac1jjj feet above the sea4 ,marine shells have not been found in ,europe above the summit of the ,pyrenees1 or #aa1gjj feet2 but the ,andes can show some a thousand feet higher4 ,a strange sight1 to see shells once crawling on the bottom of the ocean now resting at an elevation twice the height of ,mount ,washington6 ,footnote #ef3 ,the width of the chain south of the equator varies with that of the continent4 ,footnote #eg3 ,no mountains which ,i have seen in ,hungary1 ,saxony1 or the ,pyrenees are as irregular as the ,andes1 or broken into such alternate substances1 manifesting such prodigious revolutions of nature4--,helms4 ,more sublime than the ,alps by their ensemble1 the ,andes lack those curious and charming details of which ,nature has been so lavish in the old continent4--,holinski4 ,beneath the ,southern ,cross1 out of a sea perpetually swept by fearful gales1 rise the rocky hills of ,terra del ,fuego4 ,it is the starting-point of that granite chain which winds around the earth in a majestic curve1 first northwesterly to the ,arctic ,sea1 thence by the ,aleutian and ,japanese ,isles to ,asia1 crossing the ,old ,world southwesterly from ,china to ,south ,africa4 ,skirting the bleak shores of ,patagonia in a single narrow sierra1 the ,andes enter ,chile1 rising higher and higher till they culminate in the gigantic porphyritic peak of ,aconcagua4 ,at the boundary-line of ,bolivia1 the chain1 which has so far followed a precise meridional direction1 turns to the northwest1 and1 at the same time1 separates into two ,cordilleras1 inclosing the great table-land of ,desaguadero4 ,this wonderful valley1 the ,thibet of the ,new ,world1 has four times the area of ,new ,york ,state1 and five times the elevation of the ,catskill ,mountain ,house4 ,at one end of the valley1 perched above the clouds1 is silvery ,potosi1 the highest city in the world2 at the other stands the once golden capital of ,cuzco4 ,between them is ,lake ,titicaca#eh 7probably an ancient crater71 within which is an island celebrated as the cradle of the strange empire of ,peru1 which1 though crushed by ,pizarro in its budding civilization1 ranks as the most extraordinary and extensive empire in the annals of ,american history4 ,the ,cordillera1 of which ,sahama1 ,sorata1 and ,illimani are the pinnacles1 so completely inclose this high valley that not a drop of water can escape except by evaporation4 ,at the silver mines of ,pasco the ,andes throw off a third cordillera1 and with this triple arrangement and a lower altitude1 enter the republic of ,ecuador4 ,there they resume the double line1 and surpass their former magnificence4 ,twenty volcanoes1 presided over by the princely ,chimborazo and ,cotopaxi1 rise out of a sublime congregation of mountains surrounding the famous valley of ,quito4 ,in ,new ,granada there is a final and unique display of ,andine grandeur3 the ,cordilleras combine just above the equator into one dizzy ridge1 and then spread out like a fan1 or1 rather1 like the graceful branches of the palm4 ,one sierra bends to the east1 holding in its lap the city of ,bogota1 and1 rolling off a thousand streams to swell the ,orinoco1 terminates in the beautiful mountains of ,caracas2 the central range culminates in the volcanic ,tolima1#ei but is soon lost in the ,caribbean ,sea2 the western chain turns to the left1 humbling itself as it threads the narrow isthmus1 and expands into the level table-land of ,mexico4 ,you may cross ,mexico from ocean to ocean in a carriage1 but no wheeled vehicle ever crossed ,south ,america4 ,footnote #eh3 ,this lake is the largest fresh-water accumulation in ,south ,america4 ,it has diminished within the historic period4 ,its surface is #ab1gie feet above the ,pacific1 or higher than the highest peaks of the ,pyrenees4 ,footnote #ei3 ,this is the loftiest summit of the ,andes in the northern hemisphere1 being #ah1bjj feet4 ,it is also remarkable for being situated farther from the sea 7#abj miles7 than any other active volcano4 ,illustration3 ,profiles of ,ecuadorian ,volcanoes #aj1jjj ft4 ,chimborazo4 #aj1jjj ft4 ,cotopaxi4 #aj1jjj ft4 ,caraguairazo4 #aj1jjj ft4 ,pichincha4 ,we will now speak more particularly of the ,andes of the equator4 ,the mountain chain is built up of granite1 gneissoid1 and schistose rocks1 often in vertical position1 and capped with trachyte and porphyry4#fj ,large masses of solid rock are rarely seen2 every thing is cracked1 calcined1 or triturated4 ,while in ,bolivia the ,eastern ,cordillera shows a succession of sharp1 ragged peaks1 in contrast with the conical summits of the ,cordillera of the coast1 there is no such distinction in the ,andes of the equator4#fa ,the ,eastern ,cordillera has a greater mean height1 and it displays more volcanic activity4 ,twenty volcanic mountains surround the valley1 of which twelve are in the oriental chain4 ,three of the twenty are now active 7,cotopaxi1 ,sangai1 and ,pichincha71 and five others are known to have erupted since the ,conquest 7,chiles1 ,imbabura1 ,guamani1 ,tunguragua1 and ,quirotoa74 ,the truncated cone of ,cotopaxi1 the jagged1 ,alpine crest of ruined ,altar1 and the dome of ,chimborazo1 are the representative forms of the volcanic summits4 ,the extinct volcanoes usually have double domes or peaks1 while the active peaks are slender cones4 ,antisana and ,cayambi are fashioned after ,chimborazo1 though the latter is table-topped rather than convex2 ,caraguairazo1 ,quirotoa1 ,iliniza1 ,sincholagua1 ,rumiagui1 and ,corazon1 resemble ,altar2 ,tunguragua1 ,sangai1 ,llanganati1 ,cotocach1 ,chiles1 and ,imbabura1 imitate ,cotopaxi2 ,pichincha1 ,atacatzo1 and ,guamani are irregular4 ,the ,ecuadorian volcanoes have rarely ejected liquid lava1 but chiefly water1 mud1 ashes1 and fragments of trachyte and porphyry4 ,cotopaxi alone produces pure1 foam-like pumice1 and glossy1 translucent obsidian4#fb ,the paucity of quartz1 and the absence of basalt1 are remarkable4 ,some of the porphyroids are conglomerate1 but the majority are true porphyries1 having a homogeneous base4 ,dr4 ,t4 ,sterry ,hunt calls them porphyroid trachytes4 ,they have a black1 rarely reddish1 vitreous1 or impalpable base1 approaching obsidian1 with a specific gravity of #b4ei in pure specimens1 and holding crystals or crystalline grains of glassy feldspar1 and sometimes of pyroxene and hematite4 ,they differ from the ,old ,world porphyries in containing no quartz1 and seldom mica4#fc ,d',orbigny considers the porphyries of the ,andes to have been ejected at the close of the cretaceous period1 and formed the first relief of the ,cordillera4 ,the prevalence of trachyte shows that the products have cooled under feeble pressure4 ,footnote #fj3 ,as a general rule1 whenever the mass of mountains rises much above the limit of perpetual snow1 the primitive rocks disappear1 and the summits are trachyte or trappean porphyry4--,humboldt4 ,in general1 the great ,cordilleras are formed of innumerable varieties of granites1 gneiss1 schists1 hornblende1 chloritic slates1 porphyries1 etc41 and these rocks alternate with each other in meridional bands1 which in the ridges frequently present the appearance of a radiated or fan-shaped structure1 and under the plains are more or less vertical4--,evan ,hopkins1 ,f4,g4,s4 ,footnote #fa3 ,von ,tschudi makes the incorrect statement that throughout the whole extent of ,south ,america there is not a single instance of the ,western ,cordillera being intersected by a river4 ,witness the ,esmeraldas4 ,footnote #fb3 ,it is a singular fact that true trachyte1 pumice1 and obsidian are wanting in the volcanic ,galpagos ,islands1 only #gjj miles west of ,pichincha4 ,footnote #fc3 ,as many of the crystals are partly fused1 or have round angles1 the porphyries were probably formed by the melting of a crystalline rock1 the base becoming fused into a homogeneous material1 while the less fusible crystals remain imbedded4--,dr4 ,hunt4 ,from the deluges of water lately thrown out have resulted deep furrows in the sides2 and from the prevalence of the east wind1 which is always met by the traveler on the crest of either ,cordillera1 there is a greater accumulation of ashes1 and less snow on the west slope4 ,cotopaxi is a fine example of this4 ,in ,pichincha1 ,altar1 and ,rumiagua1 however1 the western wall is lowest1 apparently broken down4#fd ,there is no synchronism in the eruptions of ,cotopaxi and ,pichincha4 ,these volcanoes must have independent reservoirs1 for the former is #cjjj feet higher than the latter1 and only thirty miles distant4 ,the reputed eruptions of ,pichincha are dated #aecd1 #aeci1 #aeff1 #aege1 #aehh1 and #affj2 that of #aecd resting on the assertions of ,checa1 ,garcilazo1 and ,herrera1 indorsed by ,humboldt4 ,excepting the traditional eruption in #aecd1 which probably is confounded with that of ,pichincha1 ,cotopaxi did not open till #agdb2 then followed the eruptions of #agdc1 #agdd1 #agdf1 #agff1 #agfh1 #ahjc1 #ahea1 and #ahee4 ,we must mention1 however1 that1 since the recent awakening of ,pichincha1 ,cotopaxi has been unusually silent4 ,there is also a remarkable coincidence 7which may not be wholly accidental7 in the renewed activity of ,pichincha1 and the great eruption of ,mauna ,loa1 both occurring in ,march1 #ahfh4 ,it is generally believed by the natives that ,cotopaxi and ,tunguragua are sympathetic4 ,footnote #fd3 ,in the ,galpagos volcanoes the south wall is lowest1 while the craters in ,mexico and ,sandwich ,islands are lowest on the northeast4 ,there are fifty-one volcanoes in the ,andean chain4 ,of these1 twenty girdle the ,valley of ,quito1 three active1 five dormant1 and twelve extinct4#fe ,besides these are numerous mountain peaks not properly volcanic4 ,nowhere on the face of the earth is there such a grand assemblage of mountains4 ,twenty-two summits are covered with perpetual snow1 and fifty are over ten thousand feet high4#ff ,footnote #fe3 ,the altitudes of the most important ,ecuadorian volcanoes are3 ,,western ,,chain4 ,chimborazo1 #ba1dbj feet 7,humboldt74 ,caraguairazo1 #ai1ahc feet 7,humboldt74 ,it is variously estimated from #ae1fgc feet to #ai1gbj feet2 #ah1jjj feet is not far from the truth4 ,iliniza1 #ag1cgj feet 7,wisse72 #af1cjj 7,hall74 ,cotocach1 #af1ddj feet 7,humboldt72 #af1dji 7,wisse74 ,pichincha1 #ae1ibb feet 7,humboldt72 #ae1hbg 7,orton74 ,,eastern ,,chain4 ,cayambi1 #ai1fdh feet 7,humboldt72 #ai1ceh 7,wisse74 ,antisana1 #ai1adh feet 7,humboldt72 #ai1bgi 7,wisse74 ,cotopaxi1 #ah1hhj feet 7,humboldt72 #ah1hfb 7,wisse74 ,altar1 #ag1djj feet4 ,sangai1 #ag1abj feet 7,wisse74 ,tunguragua1 #af1egi feet 7,humboldt74 ,sincholagua1 #af1dcd feet 7,humboldt74 ,footnote #ff3 ,the snow limit at the equator is #ae1hjj feet4 ,no living creature1 save the condor1 passes this limit2 naked rocks1 fogs1 and eternal snows mark the reign of uninterrupted solitude4 ,the following is the approximate limit of perpetual snow in different latitudes3 #j #ae1hjj feet4 #bg #ah1hjj #cc #ab1ghj #dj #h1cjj feet4 #ed #c1gjj #gj #c1cjj ,the limit appears to descend more rapidly going south of the equator than in going north4 ,all of these would be visible from a single stand-point--the summit of ,cotopaxi4 ,the lofty peaks shoot up with so much method as almost to provoke the theory that the ,incas1 in the zenith of their power1 planted them as signal monuments along the royal road to ,cuzco4 ,the eastern series is called the ,cordillera real1 because along its flank are the remnants of the splendid highway which once connected ,quito and the ,peruvian capital4#fg ,it can also boast of such tremendous volcanoes as ,cotopaxi and ,sangai4 ,the ,western ,cordillera contains but one active volcano2 but then it can point to peerless ,chimborazo and the deep crater of ,pichincha4 ,these twenty volcanic mountains rise within a space only two hundred miles long and thirty miles wide4 ,it makes one tremble to think of the awful crevice over which they are placed4#fh ,footnote #fg3 ,we traveled over a portion of this ancient road in going from ,riobamba to ,cajabamba4 ,it is well paved with cut blocks of dark porphyry4 ,it is not graded1 but partakes of the irregularity of the country4 ,designed1 not for carriages1 but for troops and llamas1 there are steps when the ascent is steep4 ,footnote #fh3 ,grand as the ,andes are1 how insignificant in a general view6 ,how slightly they cause our globe to differ from a perfect sphere6 ,cotopaxi constitutes only #a_/aajj of the earth's radius2 and on a globe six feet in diameter1 ,chimborazo would be represented by a grain of sand less than #a_/bj of an inch in thickness4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,the ,volcanoes of ,ecuador4--,western ,cordillera4--,chimborazo4--,iliniza4--, corazon4--,pichincha4--,descent into its ,crater4 ,coming up from ,peru through the cinchona forests of ,loja1 and over the barren hills of ,assuay1 the traveler reaches ,riobamba1 seated on the threshold of magnificence--like ,damascus1 an oasis in a sandy plain1 but1 unlike the ,queen of the ,east1 surrounded with a splendid retinue of snowy peaks that look like icebergs floating in a sea of clouds4 ,on our left is the most sublime spectacle in the ,new ,world4 ,it is a majestic pile of snow1 its clear outline on the deep blue sky describing the profile of a lion in repose4 ,at noon the vertical sun1 and the profusion of light reflected from the glittering surface1 will not allow a shadow to be cast on any part1 so that you can easily fancy the figure is cut out of a mountain of spotless marble4 ,this is ,chimborazo--yet not the whole of it--you see but a third of the great giant4 ,his feet are as eternally green as his head is everlastingly white2 but they are far away beneath the bananas and cocoa-palms of the ,pacific coast4 ,rousseau was disappointed when he first saw the sea2 and the first glimpse of ,niagara often fails to meet one's expectations4 ,but ,chimborazo is sure of a worshiper the moment its overwhelming grandeur breaks upon the traveler4 ,you feel that you are in the presence-chamber of the monarch of the ,andes4 ,there is sublimity in his kingly look1 of which the ocean might be proud4 ,all that expands the spirit1 yet appals1 ,gathers around this summit1 as if to show ,how earth may pierce to heaven1 yet leave vain man below4 ,well do we remember our disappointment as we stood before that wonder of the world--,st4 ,peter's4 ,we mounted the pyramid of steps and looked up1 but were not overcome by the magnificence4 ,we read in our guide-book that the edifice covers eight acres1 and to the tip-top of the cross is almost five hundred feet2 that it took three hundred and fifty years and twelve successive artists to finish it1 and an expenditure of #ej1jjj1jjj1 and now costs #cj1jjj per annum to keep it in repair2 still we did not appreciate its greatness4 ,we pushed aside the curtain and walked in--walked a day's journey across the transept and up and down the everlasting nave1 and yet continued heterodox4 ,we tried hard to believe it was very vast and sublime1 and knew we ought to feel its grandeur1 but somehow we did not4 ,then we sat down by the ,holy of ,holies1 and there we were startled into a better judgment by the astounding fact that the ,cathedral of ,st4 ,paul--the largest edifice in ,great ,britain--could stand upright1 spire1 dome1 body1 and all1 inside of ,st4 ,peter's6 that the letters of the inscription which run around the base of the dome1 though apparently but an inch1 are in reality six feet high6 ,then1 for the first time1 the scales fell from our eyes2 the giant building began to grow2 higher and higher still it rose1 longer and deeper it expanded1 yet in perfect proportions2 the colossal structure1 now a living temple1 put on its beautiful garments and the robe of majesty4 ,and that dome6 the longer we looked at it the vaster it grew1 till finally it seemed to be a temple not made with hands2 the spacious canopy became the firmament2 the mosaic figures of cherubim and seraphim were endowed with life2 and as we fixed our eyes on the zenith where the ,almighty is represented in glory1 we thought we had the vision of ,stephen4 ,long we gazed upward into this heaven of man's creation1 and gazed again till we were lost in wonder4 ,but the traveler needs no such steps to lift him up to the grand conception of the divine ,architect as he beholds the great white dome of ,chimborazo4 ,it looks lofty from the very first4 ,now and then an expanse of thin1 sky-like vapor would cut the mountain in twain1 and the dome1 islanded in the deep blue of the upper regions1 seemed to belong more to heaven than to earth4 ,we knew that ,chimborazo was more than twice the altitude of ,etna4 ,we could almost see the great ,humboldt struggling up the mountain's side till he looked like a black speck moving over the mighty white1 but giving up in despair four thousand feet below the summit4 ,we see the intrepid ,bolivar mounting still higher2 but the hero of ,spanish-,american independence returns a defeated man4 ,last of all comes the philosophic ,boussingault1 and attains the prodigious elevation of nineteen thousand six hundred feet--the highest point reached by man without the aid of a balloon2 but the dome remains unsullied by his foot4 ,yet none of these facts increase our admiration4 ,the mountain has a tongue which speaks louder than all mathematical calculations4 ,there must be something singularly sublime about ,chimborazo1 for the spectator at ,riobamba is already nine thousand feet high1 and the mountain is not so elevated above him as ,mont ,blanc above the vale of ,chamoun1 when1 in reality1 that culminating point of ,europe would not reach up even to the snow-limit of ,chimborazo by two thousand feet4#fi ,it is only while sailing on the ,pacific that one sees ,chimborazo in its complete proportions4 ,its very magnitude diminishes the impression of awe and wonder1 for the ,andes on which it rests are heaved to such a vast altitude above the sea1 that the relative elevation of its summit becomes reduced by comparison with the surrounding mountains4 ,its altitude is #ba1dbj feet1 or forty-five times the height of ,strasburg ,cathedral2 or1 to state it otherwise1 the fall of one pound from the top of ,chimborazo would raise the temperature of water #cj4 ,one fourth of this is perpetually covered with snow1 so that its ancient name1 ,chimpurazu--the mountain of snow--is very appropriate4#gj ,it is a stirring thought that this mountain1 now mantled with snow1 once gleamed with volcanic fires4 ,there is a hot spring on the north side1 and an immense amount of dbris covers the slope below the snow-limit1 consisting chiefly of fine-grained1 iron-stained trachyte and coarse porphyroid gray trachyte2 very rarely a dark vitreous trachyte4 ,chimborazo is very likely not a solid mountain3 trachytic volcanoes are supposed to be full of cavities4 ,bouguer found it made the plumb-line deviate #g or #h4 ,footnote #fi3 ,but ,chimborazo is steeper than the ,alp-king2 and steepness is a quality more quickly appreciated than mere massiveness4 ,mont ,blanc 7says a writer in ,frazer's ,magazine7 is scarcely admired1 because he is built with a certain regard to stability2 but the apparently reckless architecture of the ,matterhorn brings the traveler fairly on his knees1 with a respect akin to that felt for the leaning tower of ,pisa1 or the soaring pinnacles of ,antwerp4 ,footnote #gj3 ,white ,mountain is the natural and almost uniform name of the highest mountains in all countries3 thus ,himalaya1 ,mont ,blanc1 ,hocmus1 ,sierra ,nevada1 ,ben ,nevis1 ,snowdon1 ,lebanon1 ,white ,mountains of ,united ,states1 ,chimborazo1 and ,illimani4 ,the valleys which furrow the flank of ,chimborazo are in keeping with its colossal size4 ,narrower1 but deeper than those of the ,alps1 the mind swoons and sinks in the effort to comprehend their grim majesty4 ,the mountain appears to have been broken to pieces like so much thin crust1 and the strata thrown on their vertical edges1 revealing deep1 dark chasms1 that seem to lead to the confines of the lower world4 ,the deepest valley in ,europe1 that of the ,ordesa in the ,pyrenees1 is #cbjj feet deep2 but here are rents in the side of ,chimborazo in which ,vesuvius could be put away out of sight4 ,as you look down into the fathomless fissure1 you see a white fleck rising out of the gulf1 and expanding as it mounts1 till the wings of the condor1 fifteen feet in spread1 glitter in the sun as the proud bird fearlessly wheels over the dizzy chasm1 and then1 ascending above your head1 sails over the dome of ,chimborazo4#ga ,could the condor speak1 what a glowing description could he give of the landscape beneath him when his horizon is a thousand miles in diameter4 ,if ,twelve fair counties saw the blaze from ,malvern's lonely height1 what must be the panorama from a height fifteen times higher6 ,footnote #ga3 ,humboldt's statement that the condor flies higher than ,chimborazo has been questioned2 but we have seen numbers hovering at least a thousand feet above the summit of ,pichincha4 ,baron ,mller1 in his ascent of ,orizaba1 saw two falcons flying at the height of full #ah1jjj feet2 ,dr4 ,hooker found crows and ravens on the ,himalayas at #af1ejj feet2 and flocks of wild geese are said to fly over the peak of ,kintschinghow1 #bb1gef feet4 ,chimborazo was long supposed to be the tallest mountain on the globe1 but its supremacy has been supplanted by ,mount ,everest in ,asia1 and ,aconcagua in ,chile4#gb ,in mountain gloom and glory1 however1 it still stands unrivaled4 ,the ,alps have the avalanche1 the thunderbolt of snow1 and the glaciers1 those icy ,niagaras so beautiful and grand4 ,here they are wanting4#gc ,the monarch of the ,andes sits motionless in calm serenity and unbroken silence4 ,the silence is absolute and actually oppressive4 ,the road from ,guayaquil to ,quito crosses ,chimborazo at the elevation of fourteen thousand feet4 ,save the rush of the trade wind in the afternoon1 as it sweeps over the ,andes1 not a sound is audible2 not the hum of an insect1 nor the chirp of a bird1 nor the roar of the puma1 nor the music of running waters4 ,mid-ocean is never so silent4 ,you can almost hear the globe turning on its axis4 ,there was a time when the monarch deigned to speak1 and spoke with a voice of thunder1 for the lava on its sides is an evidence of volcanic activity4 ,but ever since the morning stars sang together over man's creation1 ,chimbo has sat in sullen silence1 satisfied to look from his throne of clouds o'er half the world4 ,there is something very suggestive in this silence of ,chimborazo4 ,it was once full of noise and fury2 it is now a completed mountain1 and thunders no more4 ,how silent was ,jesus1 a completed character6 ,the reason we are so noisy is that we are so full of wants2 we are unfinished characters4 ,had we perfect fullness of all things1 the beatitude of being without a want1 we should lapse into the eternal silence of ,god4 ,footnote #gb3 ,mount ,everest is #bi1jjj feet1 and ,aconcagua #bc1bjj4 ,schlagintweit enumerates thirteen ,himalayan summits over #be1jjj feet1 and forty-six above #bj1jjj4 ,we have little confidence in the estimates of the ,bolivian mountains4 ,chimborazo has nearly the same latitude and altitude as the loftiest peak in ,africa1 ,kilima ,njaro4 ,footnote #gc3 ,humboldt ascribes the absence of glaciers in the ,andes to the extreme steepness of the sides1 and the excessive dryness of the air4 ,dr4 ,loomis1 above quoted1 mentions indications of glacial action--moraines1 and polished and striated rocks--on the crest of the ,cordillera1 between ,peru and ,bolivia1 lat4 #ba ,s4 ,chimborazo is a leader of a long train of ambitious crags and peaks2 but as he who comes after the king must not expect to be noticed1 we will only take a glimpse of these lesser lights as we pass up the ,western ,cordillera1 and then down the ,eastern4 ,the first after leaving the monarch is ,caraguairazo4 ,the ,indians call it the wife of ,chimborazo4 ,they are separated only by a very narrow valley4 ,one hundred and seventy years ago the top of this mountain fell in1 and torrents of mud flowed out containing multitudes of fishes4 ,it is now over seventeen thousand feet high1 and is one of the most ,alpine of the ,quitonian volcanoes1 having sharp pinnacles instead of the smooth trachytic domes--usually double domes--so characteristic of the ,andean summits4 ,and now we pass in rapid succession numerous picturesque mountains1 some of them extinct volcanoes1 as ,iliniza1 presenting two pyramidal peaks1 the highest seventeen thousand feet above the sea1 and ,corazon1 so named from its heart-shaped summit1 till we reach ,pichincha1 whose smoking crater is only five miles distant in a straight line from the city of ,quito1 or eleven by the traveled route4 ,the crown of this mountain presents three groups of rocky peaks4 ,the most westerly one is called ,rucu-,pichincha1 and alone manifests activity4 ,to the northeast of ,rucu is ,guagua-,pichincha1 a ruined flue of the same fiery furnace2 and between the two is ,cundur-guachana4#gd ,pichincha is the only volcano in ,ecuador which has not a true cone-crater4 ,some violent eruption beyond the reach of history or tradition has formed an enormous funnel-shaped basin #bejj feet deep1#ge #aejj in diameter at the bottom1 and expanding upward to a width of three fourths of a mile4 ,it is the deepest crater on the globe4 ,that of ,kilauea is #fjj feet2 ,orizaba1 #ejj2 ,etna1 #cjj2 ,hecla1 #ajj4 ,vesuvius is a portable furnace in comparison4 ,the abyss is girt with a ragged wall of dark trachyte1 which rises on the inside at various angles between #de and perpendicularity4 ,as we know of but one ,american besides the members of our expedition 7,mr4 ,farrand1 a photographer7 who has succeeded in entering the crater of this interesting volcano1 we will give a brief sketch of our visit4 ,footnote #gd3 ,pichincha1 in the ,inca language1 signifies the boiling mountain2 ,rucu means old2 ,guagua1 young2 and ,cundur-guachana1 the condor's nest4 ,footnote #ge3 ,more accurately1 #bebg feet2 ,wisse and ,moreno made it #bdfj4 ,illustration3 ,crater of ,pichincha4 ,leaving ,quito in the afternoon by the old arched gateway at the foot of ,panecillo1 and crossing a spur of the mountain1 we stopped for the night at the ,jesuit hacienda1 situated in the beautiful valley of ,lloa1 but nearly ruined by the earthquake of #ahei4 ,on the damp walls of this monastery1 perched #aj1bfh feet above the ocean1 we found several old paintings1 among them a copy of the ,visitation by ,rubens4 ,the sunset views in this heart of the ,andes were surpassingly beautiful4 ,mounting our horses at break of day1 and taking an ,indian guide1 we ascended rapidly1 by a narrow and difficult path1 through the forest that belts the volcano1 up to the height of #ab1jjj feet1 emerging gradually into a thicket of stunted bushes1 and then entered the dreary paramo4 ,splendid was the view of the ,eastern ,cordillera4 ,at least six dazzling white volcanoes were in sight just across the ,valley of ,quito1 among them table-topped ,cayambi1 majestic ,antisana1 and princely ,cotopaxi1 whose tapering summit is a mile above the clouds4 ,toiling upward1 we reached the base of the cone1 where vegetation ceased entirely2 and1 tying our horses to some huge rocks that had fallen from the mural cliff above1 started off on hands and feet for the crater4 ,the cone is deeply covered with sand and cinders for about two hundred feet1 and the sides are inclined at an angle of about #ce4 ,at ten o'clock we reached the brim of the crater1 and the great gulf burst suddenly into view4 ,we can never forget the impression made upon us by the sight4 ,we speak of many things here below as awful1 but that word has its full meaning when carried to the top of ,pichincha4 ,there you see a frightful opening in the earth's crust nearly a mile in width and half a mile deep1 and from the dark abyss comes rolling up a cloud of sulphurous vapors4 ,monte ,somma in the time of ,strabo was a miniature2 but this crater is on the top of a mountain four times the height of the ,italian volcano4 ,imagination finds it difficult to conceive a spectacle of more fearful grandeur or such solemn magnificence4 ,it well accords with ,milton's picture of the bottomless pit4 ,the united effect of the silence and solitude of the place1 the great depth of the cavity1 the dark precipitous sides1 and the column of smoke standing over an unseen crevice1 was to us more impressive than thundering ,cotopaxi or fiery ,vesuvius4 ,humboldt1 after standing on this same brink1 exclaimed1 ,i have never beheld a grander or more remarkable picture than that presented by this volcano2 and ,la ,condamine compared it to the ,chaos of the poets4 ,below us are the smouldering fires which may any moment spring forth into a conflagration2 around us are black1 ragged cliffs--fit boundary for this gateway to the infernal regions4 ,they look as if they had just been dragged up from the central furnace of the earth4 ,life seems to have fled in terror from the vicinity2 even lichens1 the children of the bare rocks1 refuse to clothe the scathed and beetling crags4 ,for some moments1 made mute by the dreadful sight1 we stood like statues on the rim of the mighty caldron1 with our eyes riveted on the abyss below1 lost in contemplating that which can not be described4 ,the panorama from this lofty summit is more pleasing1 but equally sublime4 ,toward the rising sun is the long range of the ,eastern ,cordillera1 hiding from our view the great valley of the ,amazon4 ,to right and left are the peaks of another procession of august mountains from ,cotocach to ,chimborazo4 ,we are surrounded by the great patriarchs of the ,andes1 and their speaker1 ,cotopaxi1 ever and anon sends his muttering voice over the land4 ,the view westward is like looking down from a balloon4 ,those parallel ridges of the mountain chain1 dropping one behind the other1 are the gigantic staircase by which the ice-crowned ,chimborazo steps down to the sea4 ,a white sea of clouds covers the peaceful ,pacific and the lower parts of the coast4 ,but the vapory ocean1 curling into the ravines1 beautifully represents little coves and bays1 leaving islands and promontories like a true ocean on a broken shore4 ,we seem raised above the earth1 which lies like an opened map below us2 we can look down on the upper surface of the clouds1 and1 were it night1 down too upon the lightnings4 ,the crater of ,pichincha has a sharp1 serrated edge1 which1 happily for ,quito1 is broken down on the west side1 so that in the next eruption the volcano will doubtless pour its contents into the wilds of ,esmeraldas4 ,the highest pinnacle is #ae1hbg feet2 so that the mountain just enters the region of perpetual winter4 ,water boils at #ahe4 ,the summit is generally bare1 though snow is always found in the clefts of the rocks4 ,it is not compact or crystalline1 but resembles a conglomerate of little hailstones4#gf ,out of the mingled snow and pumice-dust rise a few delicate flowers1 particularly the violet ,sida ,pichinchensis1 the same which we had observed on the side of ,chimborazo4 ,think of gay flowers a thousand feet higher than the top of ,mont ,blanc6 ,footnote #gf3 ,the snow on the top of ,mont ,blanc is like dry dust2 in ,lapland1 in open places1 it consists of hexagonal crystals1 and is called by the inhabitants sand-snow4 ,the ,french and ,spanish mathematicians1 ,bouguer1 ,la ,condamine1 and ,ulloa1 in their story of ascending ,pichincha1 give a long and dreadful account of their sufferings from cold and rarefied air3 whilst eating1 every one was obliged to keep his plate over a chafing-dish of coals1 to prevent his food from freezing4 ,the traveler nowadays finds only a chilling wind4 ,this rise of temperature1 coupled with the fact that ,la ,condamine 7#agde71 ,humboldt 7#ahjb71 ,boussingault 7#ahca71 and ,wisse 7#ahfc7 give to ,quito a decreasing altitude1 inclines us to believe1 with ,boussingault1 that the ,andes are sinking4 ,since the activity of the volcano in #ahfh1 the summit has been so warm that the snow has totally disappeared4 ,ice-cream has in consequence risen in price in ,quito1 as snow must be brought from ,sincholagua1 four days' journey4 ,the first to reach the brink of the crater were the ,french ,academicians in #agdb4 ,sixty years after1 ,humboldt stood on the summit4 ,but it was not till #ahdd that any one dared to enter the crater4 ,this was accomplished by ,garcia ,moreno1 now ,president of ,ecuador1 and ,sebastian ,wisse1 a ,french engineer4 ,humboldt pronounced the bottom of the crater inaccessible1 from its great depth and precipitous descent4 ,we found it accessible1 but exceedingly perilous4 ,the moment we prepared to descend our guide ran away4 ,we went on without him1 but when halfway down were stopped by a precipice4 ,on the #bb;d of ,october1 #ahfg1 we returned to ,pichincha with another guide1 and entered the crater by a different route4 ,manuel1 our ,indian1 led us to the south side1 and over the brink we went4 ,we were not long in realizing the danger of the undertaking4 ,here the snow concealed an ugly fissure or covered a treacherous rock 7for nearly all the rocks are crumbling72 there we must cross a mass of loose sand moving like a glacier down the almost vertical side of the crater2 and on every hand rocks were giving way1 and1 gathering momentum at each revolution1 went thundering down1 leaping over precipices1 and jostling other rocks1 which joined in the race1 till they all struck the bottom with a deep rumbling sound1 shivered like so many bombshells into a thousand pieces1 and telling us what would be our fate it we made a single misstep4 ,we followed our ,indian in single file1 keeping close together1 that the stones set free by those in the rear might not dash those below from their feet2 feeling our way with the greatest caution1 clinging with our hands to snow1 sand1 rock1 tufts of grass1 or any thing that would hold for a moment2 now leaping over a chasm1 now letting ourselves down from rock to rock2 at times paralyzed with fear1 and always with death staring us in the face2 thus we scrambled for two hours and a half1 till we reached the bottom of the crater4 ,here we found a deeply-furrowed plain1 strewn with ragged rocks1 and containing a few patches of vegetation1 with half a dozen species of flowers4 ,in the centre is an irregular heap of stones1 two hundred and sixty feet high by eight hundred in diameter4 ,this is the cone of eruption--its sides and summit covered with an imposing group of vents1 seventy in number1 all lined with sulphur and exhaling steam1 black smoke1 and sulphurous gas4 ,the temperature of the vapor just within the fumarole is #ahd1 water boiling beside it at #ahi4 ,the central vent1 or chimney1 gives forth a sound like the violent bubbling of boiling water4 ,as we sat on this fiery mount1 surrounded by a circular rampart of rocks1 and looked up at the immense towers of dark dolerite which ran up almost vertically to the height of twenty-five hundred feet above us1 musing over the tremendous force which fashioned this awful amphitheatre--spacious enough for all the gods of ,tartarus to hold high carnival--the clouds which hung in the thin air around the crest of the crater pealed forth thunder after thunder1 which1 reverberating from precipice to precipice1 were answered by the crash of rocks let loose by the storm1 till the whole mountain seemed to tremble like a leaf4 ,such acoustics1 mingled with the flash of lightning and the smell of brimstone1 made us believe that we had fairly got into the realm of ,pluto4 ,it is the spot where ,dante's ,inferno ought to be read4 ,finishing our observations1 and warming our dinner over the steaming crevices1 we prepared to ascend4 ,the escape from this horrid hole was more perilous than the entrance1 and on reaching the top we sang1 with grateful hearts1 to the tune of ,old ,hundred1 ,praise ,god1 from whom all blessings flow4 ,we doubt whether that famous tune and glorious doxology were ever sung so near to heaven4 ,the second line1 ,praise him all creatures here below1 had a strange meaning fifteen thousand feet high4 ,there have been five eruptions of ,pichincha since the ,conquest4 ,the last was in #affj2 that of #aeff covered ,quito three feet deep with ashes and stones1 while boiling water and bitumen descended in torrents4 ,in #ahfg the column of smoke did not rise above the crest of the crater1 but the volcano has lately been showing signs of activity1 such as it has not exhibited since the last grand eruption two centuries ago4 ,on the #aith of ,march1 #ahfh1 detonations were audible at ,quito1 and three days after there were more thunderings1 with a great column of vapor visible from ,chillo1 twelve miles to the east4 ,these phenomena were accompanied by an unusual fall of rain4 ,since the great earthquake of ,august #afth1 ,pichincha has continued to send forth dense columns of black smoke1 and so much fine sand that it is not possible to reach the crater4 ,the solid products of ,pichincha since the ,conquest have been chiefly pumice1 coarse-grained and granular trachyte1 and reddish porphyroid trachyte4 ,the roads leading to ,quito cut through hills of pumice-dust4 ,on the plain of ,iaquito and in the valley of ,esmeraldas are vast erratic blocks of trachyte1 some containing twenty-five cubic yards1 having sharp angles1 and in some cases a polished1 unstriated surface4 ,m4 ,wisse does not consider them to have been thrown out of ,pichincha1 as ,la ,condamine and others have judged4 ,it is true1 as he says1 that they could not have come out of the present cone at a less angle than #de1 for they would have hit the sides of the high rocky rampart and rolled back again2 and at a higher angle they would not have reached their present location4 ,but we see no reason why they could not be the upper portion of the solid trachyte cone blown into the air at the great eruption which cleared out this enormous crater4 ,there is a rumipamba1 or field of stones1 around each of the ,quitonian volcanoes4 ,leaving ,pichincha1 we travel northward along the battlemented ,andes1 passing by the conical mountains of ,yana-urcu and ,cotocach4 ,yana-urcu1 or black mountain1 is a mass of calcined rocks4 ,cotocach 7from cota8 and cach1 salt7 is always snow-clad4 ,on its side is ,cuycocha1 one of the highest lakes in the world 7#aj1bjj feet71 and formed by the subsidence of a part of the volcano4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,the ,volcanoes of ,ecuador4--,eastern ,cordillera4--,imbabura4--,cayambi4--,an tisana4--,cotopaxi4--,llanganati4 --,tunguragua4--,altar4--,sangai4 ,near the once busy city of ,otovalo1 utterly destroyed in the late earthquake1 the two ,cordilleras join1 and1 turning to the right1 we go down the eastern range4 ,the first in order is ,imbabura1#gg which poured forth a large quantity of mud1 with thousands of fishes1 seven years before the similar eruption of ,caraguairazo4 ,at its feet is the beautiful lake of ,san ,pablo1 five miles in circumference1 and very deep4 ,it contains the little black fish 7,pimelodes cyclopum7 already referred to as the only species in the valley1 and the same that was cast out by ,imbabura and ,caraguairazo4 ,next comes the square-topped ,cayambi--the loftiest mountain in this ,cordillera1 being nineteen thousand five hundred feet4 ,it stands exactly on the equator1 a colossal monument placed by the hand of ,nature to mark the grand division of the globe4 ,it is the only snowy spot1 says ,humboldt1 which is crossed by the equator4 ,beautiful is the view of ,cayambi from ,quito1 as its enormous mass of snow and ice glows with crimson splendor in the farewell rays of the setting sun4 ,no painter's brush could do justice to the prismatic tints which hover around the higher peaks4 ,but this flood of glory is soon followed by the pure whiteness of death4 ,like a gigantic ghost shrouded in sepulchral sheets1 the mountain now hovers in the background of the landscape1 towering ghastly through the twilight until darkness closes upon the scene4 ,footnote #gg3 ,from imba 7fish71 and bura1 to produce4 ,its name can not be older than #afia1 unless the mountain made similar eruptions before4 ,it has frequently ejected water4 ,ten miles farther south is the bare-headed ,guamani range1 over which passes the road to the wild ,napo country4#gh ,the view from the crest is magnificent2 but1 like every grand panorama1 eludes description4 ,as we look eastward over the beginnings of the mighty forest which stretches unbroken to the ,atlantic1 the vast ridges1 trending north and south1 and decreasing in height as they increase in distance1 seem like the waves of a great ocean rolling toward the mountains4 ,footnote #gh3 ,the culminating point of ,guamani is ,sara-urcu1 a volcano which threw out a vast quantity of ashes in #ahdc and #ahef4 ,near by stands ,antisana in his snowy robe4 ,this volcano ranks next to ,chimborazo in dignity4 ,it has a double dome1 and an elevation of #ai1jjj feet4 ,snow of ,dian purity covers it for over #cjjj feet2 but1 judging from the enormous streams of lava on its sides1 it must have been a fierce volcano in ages past4 ,the lava streams are worthy of the great mountain from which they flowed4 ,one of them 7called ,volcan d',ansango7 is ten miles long and five hundred feet deep1 with an average slope of #ae4 ,it is a magnificent sight1 as seen from the surrounding paramo--a stream of dark1 ragged rocks coming down out of the clouds and snows which cover the summit4 ,the representative products of ,antisana are a black1 cellular1 vitreous trachyte1 a fine-grained1 tough porphyroid trachyte1 and a coarse reddish porphyroid trachyte4 ,an eruption1 as late as #aeij1 is recorded in ,johnston's ,phys4 ,atlas4 ,humboldt saw smoke issuing from several openings in ,march1 #ahjb4 ,we ascended this volcano to the height of sixteen thousand feet4 ,on its side is the celebrated hacienda of ,antisana1 which1 more than sixty years ago1 sheltered the great ,humboldt from the sleet and rain and blast of this lofty region4 ,it was a welcome refuge to us1 for we had well nigh perished with cold on the dreary paramo4 ,it is one of the highest human habitations in the world1 being thirteen thousand three hundred feet above the sea1 or a thousand feet higher than the ,peak of ,teneriffe4#gi ,the mean temperature is the same as that of ,quebec1 so that thirteen thousand feet in elevation at the equator is equal to #dg in latitude4#hj ,here is an extensive corral1 inclosing thousands of cattle1 owned by a rheumatic old gentleman1 ,seor ,valdevieso1 who supplies the beef-market of ,quito4#ha ,a desire for beef has alone brought man and his beast to this chilly altitude4 ,it is difficult to get a quart of milk1 and impossible to find a pound of butter at this hacienda4 ,the predominant colors of the cattle are red and black4 ,they feed on the wild paramo grass1 and the beef is not only remarkably cheap1 but superior in quality4 ,the lasso is used in catching the animals1 but not so skillfully as by the ,gauchos of ,rio ,plata4 ,it is a singular fact that cattle have followed men over the whole earth1 from the coast of ,africa to the highlands of ,antisana4 ,the same species is attacked by crocodiles and condors4 ,footnote #gi3 ,m4 d',abbadie professes to have visited a village in ,abyssinia 7,arquiage7 which is #ab1dej feet above the sea4 ,potosi stands #ac1ejj feet4 ,footnote #hj3 ,this agrees with ,humboldt's calculation that a difference of elevation of #bgh feet produces the same effect on the annual temperature as a change of one degree of latitude4 ,according to the experiments of ,captain ,pullen1 the minimum temperature of the great depths of the ocean #ce1 and it commences soon after passing #ab1jjj feet4 ,footnote #ha3 ,the great dpts of cattle in ,ecuador are at the two extremes of elevation1 the lowlands of ,st4 ,elena and the highlands of ,antisana4 ,on the slope of ,cayambi is another extensive cattle estate4 ,the atmospheric pressure is here so small that they frequently bleed at the nose and mouth when hunted4 ,we have already given our experience in ascending high altitudes4 ,we may add that while the pulse of ,boussingault beat #ajf pulsations at the height of #ah1fjj feet on ,chimborazo1 ours was #hg at #af1jjj feet on ,antisana4 ,de ,saussure says that a draught of liquor which would inebriate in the lowlands no longer has that effect on ,mont ,blanc4 ,this appears to be true on the ,andes2 indeed1 there is very little drunkenness in ,quito4 ,so the higher we perch our inebriate asylums1 the better for the patients4 ,near the hacienda is a little lake called ,mica1 on which we found a species of grebe1 with wings so short it could not fly4 ,its legs1 also1 seem fitted only for paddling1 and it goes ashore only to lay its eggs4 ,it peeps like a gosling4 ,associated with them were penguins 7in appearance72 they were so shy we could not secure one4 ,the query is1 ,how came they there8 ,was this a centre of creation1 or were the fowls upheaved with the ,andes8 ,they could not have flown or walked to this lofty lake1 and there are no water-courses leading to it2 it is surrounded with a dry1 rolling waste1 where only the condor lives4 ,we turn to ,darwin for an answer4#hb ,footnote #hb3 ,the grebe is considered by ,messrs4 ,cassin and ,lawrence to be the ,podiceps occipitalis1 ,lisson 7,p4 calipareus et ,chilensis of ,garnot71 which occurs in large flocks on the coast of ,chile and in the ,straits of ,magellan4 ,it is quite different from the ,p4 micropterus of ,lake ,titicaca4 ,at ,morococha1 ,peru1 #ae1fjj feet above the sea1 ,herndon found snipes and ducks4 ,the ragged ,sincholagua#hc and romantic ,rumiagui follow ,antisana1 and then we find ourselves looking up at the most beautiful and most terrible of volcanoes4 ,this is the far-famed ,cotopaxi1 or more properly ,cutu-pacsi1 meaning a brilliant mass4 ,humboldt calls it the most regular and most picturesque of volcanic cones4 ,it looks like a huge truncated cone rising out of the ,valley of ,quito1 its sides deeply furrowed by the rivers of mud and water which have so often flowed out4 ,the cone itself is about six thousand feet high4 ,the east side is covered with snow1 but the west is nearly bare1 owing to the trade winds1 which1 sweeping across the continent1 carry the ashes westward4 ,cotopaxi is the loftiest of active volcanoes1 though its grand eruptions are a century apart1 according to the general rule that the higher a volcano the less frequent its eruptions1 but all the more terrible when they do occur4 ,imagine ,vesuvius on the summit of ,mont ,blanc1 and you have the altitude of ,cotopaxi4 ,footnote #hc3 ,in ,brigham's ,notes on the ,volcanic ,phenomena of the ,hawaiian ,islands1 this volcano is put down as active1 but there has been no eruption in the memory of man4 ,its lithology is represented in our collection by porous1 gray1 granular trachyte1 fine-grained1 compact trachyte1 and dark porphyroid trachyte4 ,the derivation of ,sincholagua is unknown1 ,rumiagui means the face of a rock1 ,cotopaxi1 ,sincholagua1 and ,rumiagui1 and ,cotopaxi1 ,pichincha1 and ,guamani1 form equilateral triangles4 ,the top just reaches the middle point of density in the atmosphere1 for at the height of three miles and a half the air below will balance that above4 ,the crater has never been seen by man2 the steepness of the sides and the depth of the ashes covering them render it inaccessible4 ,the valiant ,col4 ,hall tried it with scaling ladders1 only to fail4 ,the telescope reveals a parapet of scoria on the brim1 as on ,teneriffe4 ,humboldt's sketch of the volcano1 so universally copied1 is overdrawn4 ,it makes the slope about #ej1 while in truth it is nearer #cj4 ,the apical angle is #abb #cj'4hd ,footnote #hd3 ,,mm4 ,zurcher and ,margalli make the slope #ee6 and ,guzman1 #fi #cj'66 ,the slope of ,mauna ,loa is #f #cj'2 of ,etna1 #i2 of ,teneriffe1 #ab #cj'2 of ,vesuvius1 #ce4 ,while cinder-cones may have an angle of #dj1 lava-cones seldom exceed #aj4 ,cotopaxi is slumbering now2 or1 as ,mr4 ,coan says of ,hilo1 it is in a state of solemn and thoughtful suspense4 ,the only signs of life are the deep rumbling thunders and a cloud of smoke lazily issuing from the crater4#he ,sometimes at night the smoke looks like a pillar of fire1 and fine ashes and sand often fall around the base1 to the great annoyance of the farmers4 ,on the south side is a huge rock of porphyry1 called the ,inca's ,head4 ,tradition has it that this was the original summit of the volcano1 torn off and hurled down by an eruption on the very day ,atahuallpa was murdered by ,pizarro4 ,the last great eruption occurred in #ahjc1 though so late as #ahee it tossed out stones1 water1 and sand4 ,heaps of ruins1 piled up during the lapse of ages1 are scattered for miles around the mountain1 among them great boulders twenty feet square4 ,in one place 7,quinchevar7 the accumulation is #fjj feet deep4 ,between ,cotopaxi and ,sincholagua are numerous conical hills covering the paramo1 reminding one of the mud volcanoes of ,jorullo4 ,footnote #he3 ,even this has now 7,august1 #ahfi7 ceased1 save an occasional grumble1 and the ,tacungans are trembling with fear of another eruption4 ,pumice and trachyte are the most common rocks around this mountain1 and these are augitic or porphyroid4 ,obsidian also occurs1 though not on the immediate flank1 but farther down near ,chillo4 ,in plowing1 thousands of pieces as large as flints are turned up4 ,the natives know nothing about their origin or use2 the large specimens were anciently polished and used for mirror4 ,but ,cotopaxi is the great pumice-producing volcano4 ,the new road up the valley cuts through a lofty hill formed by the successive eruptions2 the section1 presenting alternate layers of mud1 ashes1 and pumice1 is a written history of the volcano4#hf ,the cone itself is evidently composed of similar beds super-imposed1 and holding fragments of porphyry and trachyte4 ,what is ,vesuvius1 four thousand feet high1 to ,cotopaxi1 belching forth fire from a crater fifteen thousand feet higher1 and shooting its contents three thousand feet above its snow-bound summit1 with a voice of thunder heard six hundred miles6 ,footnote #hf3 ,compare the following sections3 ,,cotopaxi 7near ,tiupullo74 ,soil #a ft4 #j in4 ,fine yellow pumice #e #j ,compact black ashes1 with seams of pumice #aj #j ,fine yellow pumice #a #f ,compact black ashes #ab #j ,fine yellow pumice #b #j ,compact black ashes1 with seams of pumice4 ,,vesuvius 7at ,pompeii74 ,soil #c ft4 #j in4 ,brown incoherent tuff #a #f ,small scori and white lapilli #j #c ,brown earthy tuff #d #i ,whitish lapilli #j #a ,gray solid tuff #j #c ,pumice and white lapilli #j #c ,leaving this terrible safety-valve to the imprisoned fires under our feet1 we travel along the wooded flanks and savage valleys of the ,llanganati ,mountains1 whose lofty blue ridge is here and there pointed with snow4#hg ,it is universally believed that the ,incas buried an immense quantity of gold in an artificial lake on the sides of this mountain during the ,spanish invasion1 and many an adventurous expedition has been made for it4 ,the inhabitants will tell you of one ,valverde1 a ,spaniard1 who1 from being very poor1 had suddenly become very rich1 which was attributed to his having married an ,indian girl whose father showed him where the treasure was hidden1 and accompanied him on various occasions to bring away portions of it2 and that ,valverde returned to ,spain1 and on his death-bed bequeathed the secret of his riches to the king4 ,but since ,padre ,longo suddenly disappeared while leading an expedition1 the timid ,ecuadorians have been content with their poverty4#hh ,footnote #hg3 ,immediately south of ,cotopaxi1 the ,cordillera consists of paramos sown with lakes and morasses1 and is rarely covered with snow4 ,llanganati is probably from llnga1 to touch3 they touch the sources of nearly all the ,ecuadorian rivers4 ,footnote #hh3 ,the story is doubtless due to the fact that the eastern streams1 which issue from the foot of this cordillera1 are auriferous4 ,and now we have reached the perfect cone of ,tunguragua1 the rival of ,cotopaxi in symmetry and beauty4#hi ,it stands #af1ejj feet above the ,pacific1 its upper part covered with a splendid robe of snow1 while the sugar-cane grows in the romantic town of ,baos1 #aj1jjj feet below the summit4 ,a cataract1 #aejj feet high1 comes down at three bounds from the edge of the snow to the warm valley beneath2 and at ,baos a hot ferruginous spring and a stream of ice-water flow out of the volcano side by side4 ,here1 too1 the fierce youth of the ,pastassa1 born on the pumice slopes of ,cotopaxi1 dashes through a deep tortuous chasm and down a precipice in hot haste1 as if conscious of the long distance before it ere it reaches the ,amazon and the ocean4 ,tunguragua was once a formidable mountain1 for we discovered a great stream of lava reaching from the clouds around the summit to the orange-groves in the valley1 and blocking up the rivers which tumble over it in beautiful cascades4 ,it has been silent since #aghj2 but it can afford to rest1 for then its activity lasted seven years4#ij ,footnote #hi3 ,from ,tungri1 the ankle-joint1 alluding to its apical angle4 ,it is a little steeper than ,cotopaxi1 having a slope of #ch4 ,footnote #ij3 ,spruce asserts that he saw smoke issuing from the western edge in #aheg2 and ,dr4 ,terry says that in #ahcb smoke ascended almost always from the summit4 ,dr4 ,taylor1 of ,riobamba1 informs the writer that smoke is now almost constantly visible4 ,the characteristic rock is a black vitreous trachyte resembling pitchstone1 but anhydrous4 ,close by rises beautiful ,altar1 a thousand feet higher4 ,the ,indians call it ,capac-urcu1 or the ,chief4 ,they say it once overtopped ,chimborazo2 but1 after a violent eruption1 which continued eight years1 the walls fell in4 ,its craggy crest is still more ,alpine than ,caraguairazo2 eight snowy peaks shoot up like needles into the sky1 and surround an altar to whose elevated purity no mortal offering will ever attain4 ,the trachyte which once formed the summit of this mountain is now spread in fragments over the plain of ,riobamba4 ,leaving this broken-down volcano1 but still the most picturesque in the ,andes1 we travel over the rough and rugged range of ,cubillin1 till our attention is arrested by terrific explosions like a naval broadside1 and a column of smoke that seems to come from the furnace of the ,cyclops4 ,it is ,sangai1 the most active volcano on the globe4 ,from its unapproachable crater1 three miles high1 it sends forth a constant stream of fire1 water1 mud1 and ashes4#ia ,footnote #ia3 ,la ,condamine 7#agdb7 adds sulphur and bitumen4 ,no intermission has been noticed since the ,spaniards first saw it three hundred years ago4 ,stromboli is the only volcano that will compare with it4 ,its ashes are almost always falling on the city of ,guayaquil1 one hundred miles distant1 and its explosions1 generally occurring every hour or two1 are sometimes heard in that city4 ,wisse1 in #ahdi1 counted #bfg explosions in one hour4 ,we have now completed the series4 ,what an array of snow-clad peaks wall in the narrow ,valley of ,quito--,nature's ,gothic spires to this her glorious temple6 ,if ever there was a time when all these volcanoes were active in concert1 this secluded vale must have witnessed the most splendid pyrotechnics conceivable4 ,imagine fifty mountains as high as ,etna1 three of them with smoking craters1 standing along the road between ,new ,york and ,washington1 and you will have some idea of the ride down this gigantic colonnade from ,quito to ,riobamba4 ,if1 as ,ruskin says1 the elements of beauty are in proportion to the increase of mountainous character1 ,ecuador is artistically beautiful to a high degree4 ,here1 amid these ,plutonic peaks1 are the energies of volcanic action best studied4 ,the constancy of the volcanic fires is a striking fact4 ,first we have the deluges of submarine lavas1 which were poured out long before the ,andes lifted their heads above the waters2 then alternate porphyritic strata1 feldspathic streams1 and gypseous exhalations2 then1 at a later day1 floods of basaltic lava2 next the old tertiary eruptions2 and1 lastly1 the vast accumulations of boulders1 gravel1 ashes1 pumice1 and mud of the present day1 spread over the ,valley of ,quito and the west slope of the ,cordilleras to an unknown depth beneath the sea4 ,the incessant eruptions of ,sangai1 and the frequent earthquakes1 show that the subterranean energy which heaved the ,andes is not yet expended4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,valley of ,quito4--,riobamba4--,a ,bed of ,fossil ,giants4--,chillo ,hacienda4--,otovalo and ,ibarra4--,the ,great ,earthquake of #ahfh4 ,the ,valley of ,quito has about the same size and shape as the basin of ,salt ,lake1 but it is five thousand feet higher4#ib ,the two cordilleras inclosing it are tied by the mountain-knots of ,assuay and ,chisinchi1 so that the valley is subdivided into three basins1 those of ,cuenca1 ,ambato1 and ,quito proper1 which increase in beauty and altitude as we travel north4 ,there are several subordinate transversal dikes and some longitudinal ridges1 but all the basins lie parallel to the axes of the cordilleras--a characteristic feature of the ,andes4 ,the deep valleys on the outside flanks are evidently valleys of erosion1 but the basins between the cordilleras were created with them4 ,footnote #ib3 ,compare the table-lands in the ,old ,world3 ,thibet #aa1ejj feet4 ,south ,africa #f1jjj ,mysore 7,india7 #b1hhj ,spain #b1bdj ,bavaria #a1ggj ,the first is fifty miles long4 ,it contains the cities of ,loja and ,cuenca1#ic the former distinguished for its cinchona forests1 the latter for ,inca graves and mines of precious metals4 ,the middle basin 7#acj miles in length7 is covered with vast quantities of volcanic dbris1 the outpourings of ,cotopaxi1 ,tunguragua1 and ,altar1 on one side1 and of ,chimborazo and ,caraguairazo on the other4 ,nothing relieves the barrenness of the landscape but hedges of century plant1 cactus1 and wild heliotrope1 which border the roads4 ,whirlwinds of sand are often seen moving over the plain4 ,the mean temperature is #fa4e4 ,here exist1 we can not say thrive1 the cities of ,riobamba1 ,ambato1 and ,tacunga1 already noticed4 ,riobamba1#id properly ,rayobamba1 the plain of lightning1 was founded at the beginning of this century1 or shortly after the destruction of the old city4 ,excepting the ecclesiastical buildings1 the houses are of one story1 built of stone plastered with mud1 sometimes of adobe or bamboo1 and the windows are grated like those of a prison4 ,as in all ,spanish-,american towns1 the main church fronts the great ,plaza where the weekly fairs are held4 ,save on fair-day1 the city is lifeless4 ,nothing is exported to the coast except a few eggs and fowls1 lard and potatoes4 ,such is the power of habit1 an ,indian will take a hen to ,bodegas and sell it for four reals 7#ej cents7 when he could get three for it in ,riobamba1 and six on the road4 ,another instance of this dogged adherence to custom was related to us by ,dr4 ,taylor3 ,the ,indians were accustomed to bring the curate of a certain village a bundle of alfalfa every day4 ,a new curate1 having no use for so much1 ordered them not to bring any more4 ,he was besieged by five hundred of his wild parishioners1 and had he not been a powerful man1 they would have killed him4 ,they told him they were accustomed to bring the curate that much of alfalfa1 and should continue4 ,footnote #ic3 ,the altitude of ,loja is #fgfh feet2 of ,cuenca1 #hfdj feet4 ,footnote #id3 ,according to ,villavicencio1 ,rio 7or ,rie7 is ,quichua for road2 bamba is plain4 ,old ,riobamba 7,cajabamba7 is situated twelve miles to the west4 ,this has been the scene of some of the most terrible paroxysms that over shook the ,andes4 ,in #agig a part of ,mount ,cicalfa was thrown down1 crushing the city at its foot2 hills arose where valleys existed2 rivers disappeared1 and others took their places2 and the very site of the city was rent asunder4 ,the surviving inhabitants could not tell where their houses had stood1 and property was so mingled that litigation followed the earthquake4 ,judging from the numerous sculptured columns lying broken and prostrate throughout the valley1 the city must have had a magnificence now unknown in ,ecuador4 ,around a coat of arms 7evidently ,spanish7 we read these words3 ,malo mori quam fedari1 ,i would rather die than be disgraced4 ,in the spring of #ahfh another convulsion caused a lake to disappear and a mountain to take its place4 ,near ,punn1 seven miles southwest of ,riobamba1 we discovered in a deep ravine numerous fossil bones1 belonging chiefly to the mastodon1 and extinct species of the horse1 deer1 and llama4 ,they were imbedded in the middle of an unstratified cliff1 four hundred feet high1 of very compact silt or trachytic clay1 free from stones1 and resting on a hard quartzoze sandstone4 ,in the bed of the stream which runs through the ravine 7charged with nitrate of soda7 are some igneous rocks4 ,the bones were drifted to this spot and deposited 7many of them in a broken state7 in horizontal layers along with recent shells4 ,we have1 then1 this remarkable fact1 that this high valley was tenanted by elephantine quadrupeds1 all of which passed away before the arrival of the human species1 and yet while the land1 and probably the sea also1 were peopled with their present molluscan inhabitants4 ,this confirms the statement of ,mr4 ,lyell1 that the longevity of mammalian species is much inferior to that of the testacea4 ,it is interesting to speculate on the probable climate and the character of the vegetation in this high valley when these extinct mammifers lived4 ,the great pachyderm would have no difficulty in thriving at the present day at ,quito1 on the score of temperature or altitude4 ,the mammoth once flourished in ,siberia2 and ,gibbon met an elephant on the high table-lands of ,bolivia that had walked over the ,cordillera at the pass of ,antarangua1 sixteen thousand feet above the sea4 ,darwin thinks that the climate of the ,cordilleras has changed since the pleistocene period4 ,it is a marvelous fact in the history of mammalia 7says this naturalist7 that in ,south ,america a native horse should have lived and disappeared1 to be succeeded in after ages by the countless herds descended from the few introduced with the ,spanish colonists4 ,the high ridge of ,chisinchi1 stretching across the great plateau from ,cotopaxi to ,iliniza1 separates the evergreen ,valley of ,quito from the arid and melancholy valleys of ,cuenca and ,ambato4 ,it rolls out like a rich carpet of emerald verdure between the towering mountains of ,pichincha and ,antisana1 ,cotacachi and ,cayambi4 ,this was the centre of the most ancient native civilization after that of ,titicaca4 ,here1 while the darkness of the ,middle ,ages was settling over ,europe1 dwelt the ,quitus1 whose origin is lost in the mists of fable4 ,then1 while ,peter the ,hermit was leading his fanatic host against the ,saracens1 the ,cara nation waged a more successful crusade1 and supplanted the ,quitus4 ,here1 too1 in the bloody days of ,pizarro1 reigned1 and was buried1 the last of the ,incas1 ill-fated ,atahuallpa4 ,to him1 indeed1 it was a more delightful spot than the vale of ,vilcamayu--the paradise of ,peru4 ,the ,puengasi ,hills1 running through the valley from north to south1 partially divide the capital and its vicinity from the charming ,valley of ,chillo1 spread out at the foot of ,antisana4 ,here is the venerable hacienda of ,chillo1 where ,humboldt and ,bonpland resided for some time4 ,it is owned by the ,aguirres1 who are grand-nephews of ,don ,carlos ,montufar1 the companion of the famous travelers4 ,the hacienda contains two valuable paintings--an original ,crucifixion by ,titian1 and a portrait of the great ,german from life1 as he appeared in #ahjc4 ,this latter relic interested us exceedingly1 and1 through the kindness of ,sr4 ,aguirre1 we were allowed to photograph it4 ,it represents ,humboldt in his prime1 a traveler on the ,andes1 dressed after the court-fashion of ,berlin2 very different from the usual portrait--an old man in his library1 his head1 thinly covered with gray hair1 resting on his bosom4 ,illustration3 ,humboldt in #ahjb4 ,thirty miles north of ,quito1 near the volcanic ,imbabura1 is the ruined city of ,otovalo1 a thousand feet lower than the capital4 ,it was well built1 and contained #gjjj inhabitants4 ,quichua was the prevailing language4 ,its chief trade was in saddles1 ponchos1 straw hats1 and fruit4 ,here was the cotton factory1 or quinta1 of ,sr4 ,pareja4 ,three miles from ,otovalo was the enterprising ,indian village of ,cotocach1 at the mountain of the same name4 ,it was noted for its hand-loom products4 ,a heap of ruins now marks the locality4 ,it is a doomed spot1 suffering more than any other town in #ahei4 ,four miles northwest of ,otovalo was the city of ,ibarra1 picturesquely seated on a plain #bjjj feet lower than ,quito1 and surrounded with orchards and gardens4 ,it numbered nearly #aj1jjj souls4 ,it was not a commercial place1 but the residence of landed proprietors4 ,the neighborhood produced cotton1 sugar1 and fruit4 ,a league distant was ,carranqui1 the birthplace of ,atahuallpa4 ,and1 finally1 the great valley fitly terminates in the plain of ,atuntaqui1#ie where the decisive battle was fought which ushered in the reign of the ,incas4 ,illustration3 ,ibarra4 ,footnote #ie3 ,atuntaqui received its name from the big drum which was kept here in the days of ,huayna-,capac1 to give the war-signal4 ,this northern province of ,imbabura was the focus of the late terrible earthquake4 ,at half past one on ,sunday morning1 ,august #af1 #ahfh1 with scarcely a premonitory sign 7save a slight trembling at #c ,p4,m4 the previous day71 there was an upheaving of the ground1 and then one tremendous shock and rocking of the earth1 lasting one minute4 ,in that brief moment the rich and flourishing province became a wilderness1 and ,misericordia6 went up1 like tho sound of many waters1 from ten villages and cities4 ,otovalo1 ,ibarra1 ,cotocach1 and ,atantaqui are heaps of ruins4 ,at ,otovalo #fjjj perished4 ,after the first shock1 not a wall a yard high remained4 ,houses1 in some instances1 seemed to have been cut from their foundation1 and thrown ten feet distant4 ,the large stone fountain in the ,plaza was thrown many yards4 ,the cotton factory1 which was built on the edge of a ravine1 was by one stroke reduced to fragments4 ,such was the force of the concussion1 the looms smashed each other1 the carding-machines were thrown on their sides1 and the roof1 with part of the machinery1 was found in the river below4 ,the proprietor was killed4 ,throughout this whole region roads were broken up1 and vast chasms created crossing the country in all directions4 ,one is #bjjj yards long1 #ejj yards broad1 and #hj yards deep4 ,large fissures were opened on the sides of ,cotocach and ,imbabura1 from which issued immense torrents of water1 mud1 and bituminous substances1 carrying away and drowning hundreds of cattle4 ,a caravan of mules going to ,chillo with cotton-bales was found four days after grazing on a narrow strip of land1 on each side of which was a fearful chasm1 while the muleteers were killed4 ,at ,quito comparatively little damage was done4 ,fifteen lives were lost1 and the churches1 convents1 and many private houses are in a state of dilapidation4 ,domes and arches1 which are much used because of the scarcity of timber1 were first to fall4 ,in the fierceness of the shock1 and the extent of the territory shaken1 the earthquake of ,august1 #ahfh1 is without a parallel in the ,new ,world4 ,the destruction of life 7#ej1jjj officially reported in ,ecuador alone7 has not been equaled in any other earthquake during this century4 ,the tremor was felt over four republics1 and from the ,andes to the ,sandwich ,islands4 ,the water-wave was felt on the coast of ,new ,zealand sixteen hours after it had set a ,united ,states gunboat1 on the sand-hills of ,arica4 ,in some respects it is surpassed only by the ,lisbon earthquake1 which reached from ,sweden to the ,west ,indies1 and from ,barbary to ,scotland4 ,the loss of property seems to have been greatest in ,peru1 and the loss of life greatest in ,ecuador4 ,the commotion seemed to be most violent along the ,western ,cordillera1 though it was felt even on the ,napo4 ,there are few places where the crust of our planet is long at rest4 ,brazil1 ,egypt1 ,russia1 and ,greenland are comparatively free from earthquakes4 ,but had we delicate instruments scattered throughout the world1 upheaval and subsidence would doubtless be detected in every part of the so-called terra firma4 ,the sea1 and not the land1 is the true image of stability4 ,time writes no wrinkle on thy azure brow3 ,such as creation's dawn beheld1 thou rollest now4 ,earthquakes have occurred in every period of geological history1 and are independent of latitude4 ,the first well-known earthquake came in the year #fc1 and shattered ,pompeii and ,herculaneum sixteen years before they were overwhelmed by the first recorded eruption of ,vesuvius4 ,the most celebrated earthquake1 and perhaps the most terrible manifestation of force during the human period1 was in #agee4 ,the shock1 which seemed to originate in the bed of the ,atlantic1 pervaded one twelfth of the earth's surface4 ,unhappy ,lisbon stood in its path4 ,an earthquake is a vertical vibration1 having an undulatory progression4 ,an example of the simple bounding movement occurred in #agig1 when the city of ,riobamba1 in the ,quito ,valley1 was buried under part of a mountain shaken down by the violent concussion1 and men were tossed several hundred feet4 ,we saw one massive structure which had nearly turned a somersault4 ,the ordinary vibrations seldom exceed two feet in height4 ,the wave-movement has a rate of from twenty to thirty miles a minute1 depending on the elasticity of the rock and the elevations on the surface4 ,when two undulations cross each other1 a rotatory or twisting motion is produced4 ,the waves are generally transmitted along the lines of primary mountain chains1 which are doubtless seated on a fracture4 ,the ,lisbon waves moved from southwest to northeast1 or parallel to the mountain system of the ,old ,world2 those of the ,united ,states1 in #ahdc1 ran parallel to the volcanic chain in ,mexico4 ,in ,south ,america they roll along the ,andes4 ,that of #agig left its tracks along a westerly line from ,tunguragua through ,pelilo and ,guno4 ,it is a little singular1 that while the late trembling at ,quito seemed to come from the north1 the great shock in ,peru preceded that in ,ecuador by three days4 ,though the origin of earthquakes is deep-seated1 the oscillation is mostly superficial1 as deep mines are little disturbed4 ,the most damage is done where the sedimentary plains abut against the hard1 upturned strata of the mountains4 ,the shock is usually brief4 ,that of ,caracas lasted fifty seconds1 that of ,lisbon six minutes2 but ,humboldt witnessed one in ,south ,america which continued a quarter of an hour4 ,several hypotheses have been advanced to account for earthquakes4 ,rogers ascribes them to billowy pulsations in the molten matter upon which the flexible crust of the earth floats4 ,mallet thinks they may be viewed as an uncompleted effort to establish a volcano4 ,dana holds that they are occasioned by the folding up of the rocks in the slow process of cooling and consequent contraction of the earth's crust4 ,in this process there would occur enormous fractures to relieve the tension2 tilted strata would slip1 and caverns give way4 ,all this no doubt takes place2 but the sudden1 paroxysmal heavings incline us to refer the cause to the same eruptive impulse which makes ,vesuvius and ,cotopaxi discharge pent-up subterranean vapor and gas4 ,the most destructive earthquakes occur when the overlying rocks do not break and give vent to the imprisoned gas4 ,there is some connection between volcanoes and earthquakes2 the former are1 to a certain extent1 safety-valves4 ,the column of smoke from the volcano of ,pasto suddenly disappeared just before the great earthquake at ,riobamba4 ,in the spring of #ahfh ,pichincha and ,cotopaxi showed signs of increasing activity1 but in the summer became quiet again4 ,cotocach and ,sangai1 #bjj miles apart1 were awaked simultaneously2 the former1 silent for centuries1 sent forth dense masses of earth and volcanic matter to a distance of many miles1 covering thousands of acres2 the latter thundered every half hour instead of hourly1 as before4 ,still1 the greatest earthquakes do not occur in the vicinity of active volcanoes4 ,lisbon and ,lima 7where1 on an average1 forty-five shocks occur annually1 and two fearful ones in a century7 are far distant from any volcanic vent2 likewise ,northern ,india1 ,south ,africa1 ,scotland1 and the ,united ,states4 ,an earthquake is beyond the reach of calculation4 ,professor ,perrey1 of ,dijon1 ,france1 is endeavoring to prove that there is a periodicity in earthquakes1 synchronous with that in the tides of the ocean1 the greatest number occurring at the time of new and full moon4#if ,if this theory be sustained1 we must admit the existence of a vast subterranean sea of lava4 ,but all this is problematical4 ,earthquakes appear independently of the geology of a country1 though the rate of undulation is modified by the mineral structure4 ,earthquake waves seem to move more rapidly through the comparatively undisturbed beds of the ,mississippi ,valley than through the contorted strata of ,europe4 ,meteorology is unable to indicate a coming earthquake1 for there is no sure prophecy in sultry weather1 sirocco wind1 and leaden sky4 ,the ,lisbon shock came without a warning4 ,sudden changes of the weather1 however1 often occur after an earthquake4 ,since the great convulsion of #agig the climate of the ,valley of ,quito is said to be much colder4 ,a heavy rain often follows a violent earthquake in ,peru4 ,footnote #if3 ,professor ,quinby1 of the ,university of ,rochester1 has1 at our request1 calculated the position of the moon at the late earthquake3 ,august #afth1 #ahfh1 #a ,a4,m41 the moon was on meridian #acg #ba' east of that of ,quito1 or #db #cj' past the lower meridian of ,quito1 assuming the longitude of ,quito west of ,greenwich to be #gi1 which it is very nearly4 ,this is but little after the vertex of the tidal wave should have passed the meridian of ,quito1 on the supposition that the interior of the earth is a liquid mass4 ,the age of the moon at that time was #bg4cf days1 i4e41 it was only about two days before new moon4 ,at the time of the earthquake1 #h ,a4,m41 ,march #bb1 #ahei1 the moon was on meridian #be #dh' east of that of ,quito1 and was #ag4f days old4 ,shocks have since occurred1 ,march #bjth at #c ,a4,m41 and ,april #ajth at #h ,a4,m41 #ahfi4 ,no amount of familiarity with earthquakes enables one to laugh during the shock1 or even at the subterranean thunders which sound like the clanking of chains in the realm of ,pluto4 ,all animated nature is terror-stricken4 ,the horse trembles in his stall2 the cow moans a low1 melancholy tune2 the dog sends forth an unearthly yell2 sparrows drop from the trees as if dead2 crocodiles leave the trembling bed of the river and run with loud cries into the forest2 and man himself becomes bewildered and loses all capacity4 ,when the earth rocks beneath our feet 7the motion resembling1 in the words of ,darwin1 that felt by a person skating over thin ice which bends under the weight of his body71 something besides giddiness is produced4 ,we feel our utter insignificance in the presence of a mysterious power that shakes the ,andes like a reed4 ,but more3 there is an awful sensation of insecurity4 ,a moment 7says ,humboldt7 destroys the illusion of a whole life3 our deceptive faith in the repose of nature vanishes1 and we feel transported1 as it were1 into a region of unknown destructive forces4 ,a judgment day seems impending1 and each moment is an age when one stands on a world convulsed4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,the ,province of the ,orient1 or the ,wild ,napo ,country4--,the ,napos1 ,zaparos1 and ,jvaros ,indians4--,preparations to cross the ,continent4 ,on the eastern slope of the ,ecuadorian ,andes1 between the ,maraon and its tributary the ,putumayo1 lies the ,napo country4 ,this almost unknown region has the area of ,new ,york and ,new ,england together4 ,the government of ,quito1 by a sonorous decree in #ahed1 baptized it ,la ,provincia del ,oriente4 ,peru likewise claims it1 but neither republic has done any thing to colonize it4 ,a dense primeval forest1 broken only by the rivers1 covers the whole territory1 and is the home of wild races untouched by civilization4#ig ,there is not a road in the whole province4 ,a footpath1 open only in the dry season1 and barely passable then1 connects ,quito and the ,rio ,napo4 ,congress lately promised to put ,canlos in communication with the capital2 but the largest villages in this vast and fertile region--,archidona1 ,canlos1 and ,macs--still remain isolated from the outer world4#ih ,ecuador once appointed a functionary under the high-sounding title of ,governor of the ,orient1 with a salary of #gjj2 but now the ,indians are not troubled with any higher official than an alcalde4 ,footnote #ig3 ,the boundary-line between ,ecuador and ,peru is about as indefinite as the eastern limit of ,bolivia1 ,brazilians claiming as far west as the cattle of the empire roam4 ,footnote #ih3 ,quito might be made more accessible on the ,atlantic than on the ,pacific side4 ,but ,ecuadorians dote on ,guayaquil1 and refuse to connect themselves directly with the great nations of the ,east4 ,we believe there is a glorious future for ,quito1 when it will once more become a city of palaces4 ,but it will not come until a road through the wilderness and a steamer on the ,napo open a short communication with the wealth of ,amazonia and the enterprise of ,europe4 ,the country is very thinly inhabited4 ,the chief tribes are the semi-,christianized ,napos 7sometimes called ,quijos71 dwelling on the north bank of the ,napo2 the peaceful but uncivilized ,zaparos1 living between the ,napo and ,pastassa1 and the warlike ,jvaros1 spread over the unexplored region between the ,pastassa and ,santiago4 ,these oriental tribes would probably be assigned by ,d',orbigny to the ,antisian branch of the ,alpine races of ,south ,america4 ,dwelling amid the darkness of primeval forests1 and on the gloomy banks of mountain torrents1 they have acquired modifications of character1 physical and moral1 which distinguish them from the natives of the high and open regions1 or the steaming lowlands of the ,amazon4 ,in color1 however1 they do not appear to us to be entitled to the name of white men2 they approach nearer to the bronze complexion of the ,quichuans than the yellow cast of the ,brazilians4 ,we see no evidence of that bleaching process resulting from a life under the dense canopy of foliage of which the learned ,french naturalist speaks1 neither did we perceive the force of his statement that the color of the ,south ,american bears a very decided relation to the humidity of the atmosphere4 ,the features of the ,napo ,indians are ,quichuan1 especially the low forehead1 squarely-built face1 and dull expression2 but in stature they exceed the mountaineers4 ,from a skull in our possession we take the following measurements1 adding for comparison the dimensions of an ancient ,peruvian cranium in ,dr4 ,morton's collection3 ,napo4 ,peruvian4 ,longitudinal diameter #f-a_/b in4 #f4a in4 ,parietal #e-c_/h #f4 ,frontal #d #d4g ,vertical #d-a_/b #e4e ,capacity #hc-a_/fd cub4 in4 #hc cub4 in4 ,facial angle #gj #ha ,from this it will be seen that the capacity of this individual ,napo is #h cubic inches greater than the average bulk 7#ge cubic inches7 of the old ,peruvians2 a trifle less than the average ,north ,american 7#hd72 #aj cubic inches less than the ,european 7#id72 and the same as the average ,polynesian and native ,african4 ,he has a rounded head1 somewhat prominent vertex1 not an excessive protuberance of brain behind--a line through the meatus dividing it into very nearly equal parts2 but a narrow front as viewed from above1 small vertical diameter1 quadrangular orbits1 vertical teeth1 and low facial angle4 ,these characters place him between the ,toltecan and the more barbarous tribes of the ,new ,world4 ,the ,napos are nominally subject to the ,ecuadorian government1 which is represented by three or four petty alcaldes2 but the ,jesuit missionaries1 who have established a bishopric and three curacies1 generally control affairs--spiritual1 political1 and commercial4 ,the ,indians of each village annually elect one of their number governor1 who serves without salary1 and whose only show of authority is a silver-headed cane about four feet long4 ,he is attended by half a dozen justices1 whose duty it is to supply the curate1 alcalde1 and any traveling blanco who may happen to be in town with daily food at a reasonable rate4 ,the religion of the ,napos is a mixture of ,paganism and ,christianity4 ,in common with all the other orient tribes1 they believe in good and evil principles1 and in metempsychosis4 ,they swear in the name of the devil4 ,they bury their dead horizontally1 in a coffin made of a part of a canoe1 with a lid of bamboo4 ,they are very kind to the aged4 ,monogamy is the rule3 the usual age of wedlock is sixteen or seventeen4 ,the parents negotiate the marriage1 and the curate's fee is one castellano 7#c4ej74 ,when a person dies they hold an ,irish wake over the body1 and then take the widow to the river and wash her4 ,they have seven semi-religious feasts in a year4 ,to us they appeared to be nothing more than meaningless drunken frolics4 ,attired in their best1 with head-dresses consisting of a circlet of short1 richly-colored feathers from the breast of the toucan1 surmounted with the long tail-feathers of the macaw1 and with necklaces of beads1 seeds1 and monkeys' teeth1 they keep up a constant monotonous tapping on little drums1 and trot around a circle like dogs on a treadmill1 stopping only to drink chicha4 ,this is kept up for three weeks1 when they all start off1 with wives and children1 for the forest to hunt monkeys for meat4 ,chicha1 the favorite drink of all the ,andean ,indians1 is here brewed from yuca1 not from corn and barley as in the ,quito ,valley4 ,so true is it1 as ,humboldt remarks1 that almost every where man finds means of preparing some kind of beverage from the vegetable kingdom4 ,the ,chilotans1 ,darwin informs us1 make chicha from a species of ,bromelia4 ,in every zone1 too1 we find nations in a low degree of civilization living almost exclusively upon a single animal or plant4 ,thus the ,laplander has his reindeer1 the ,esquimaux his seal1 the ,sandwich ,islander his tara-root1 the ,malay his sago-palm1 the ,napo ,indian his yuca4 ,yuca is the staple food in this region4 ,it is more commonly roasted1 but is sometimes ground into flour4 ,the manufacture of chicha is primitive1 and not a little disgusting4 ,a bee1 usually old women1 sit around a wooden trough2 each one takes a mouthful of yuca root1 and1 masticating it1 throws it into the trough4 ,the mass is then transferred to large earthen jars containing water1 and left to ferment4 ,the liquor is slightly acid1 but not intoxicating unless taken in excess4 ,this is done on feast-days1 when the poor ,indian keeps his stomach so constantly distended for weeks that the abdominal protrusion is not only unsightly1 but alarming to a stranger4 ,chicha-drinking is a part of the worship of these simple aborigines4 ,they seem to think that the more happy they make themselves while paying their devotions to the ,creator1 the better he is satisfied4 ,the ,jesuits have found it impossible to change this method of praise4 ,here1 as among all rude nations1 an ancient custom is one half the religion4 ,in eating meat 7usually monkey1 sea-cow1 and peccari71 we observed that they did not tear or bite it1 but1 putting one end of a long piece in the mouth1 cut off what they could not get in1 as ,darwin noticed among the ,fuegians4 ,they keep no domestic animals except fowls4 ,as to dress1 they make use of a coarse cotton cloth1 called lienzo1 woven by the more enlightened ,indians of ,quito1 dyeing it a dull brown by means of achote juice4 ,the men wear a strip of this around the loins1 and the women a short skirt4 ,on feast-days1 or when musquitoes are thick1 the men add a little poncho and pantaloons4 ,they do not properly tattoo1 but color the skin with achote or anatto4 ,this substance1 which serves so many purposes in this part of the world1 is the red powder which covers the seeds contained in the prickly bur of the ,bixa orellana4 ,the pigment is an article of commerce on the ,amazon1 and is exported to ,europe1 where it is used for coloring butter1 cheese1 and varnish4 ,they have no fixed pattern2 each paints to suit his fancy4 ,usually1 however1 they draw horizontal bands from the month to the ears1 and across the forehead2 we never saw curved lines in which higher savages1 like the ,tahitians1 tattoo4 ,the ,napos have the provoking apathy of all the ,new ,world aborigines4 ,as ,humboldt observed of another tribe1 their poverty1 stoicism1 and uncultivated state render them so rich and so free from wants of every kind1 that neither money nor other presents will induce them to turn three steps out of their ways4 ,they maintain a passive dignity in their bearing not seen in the proudest pope or emperor4 ,they seldom laugh or smile1 even under the inspiration of chicha1 and months of intercourse with them did not discover to us the power of song1 though ,villavicencio says they do sometimes intone fragments of prose in their festival orgies4 ,they manifest little curiosity1 and little power of mimicry1 in which wild men generally excel the civilized4#ii ,the old ,spartans were never so laconic4 ,in conversation each says all he has to say in three or four words till his companion speaks1 when he replies in the same curt1 ejaculatory style4 ,a long sentence1 or a number of sentences at one time1 we do not remember of hearing from the lips of a ,napo ,indian4#ajj ,footnote #ii3 ,all savages appear to possess to an uncommon degree the power of mimicry4--,darwin4 ,footnote #ajj3 ,gibbon observes of his ,indian paddlers on the ,marmor3 ,they talk very little2 they silently pull along as though they were sleeping1 but their eyes are wandering all the time in every direction4 ,the women do most of the work1 while their lazy lords drink up the chicha and swing in their hammocks1 or possibly do a little hunting4#aja ,they catch fish with bone hooks1 seines1 spears1 and by poisoning the water with barbasco4#ajb ,this last method is quite common throughout equatorial ,america4 ,mashing the root1 they throw it into the quiet coves of the river1 when almost immediately the fish rise to the surface1 first the little fry and then the larger specimens4 ,the poison seems to stupefy rather than kill1 for we observed that some individuals behaved in a most lively manner shortly after they were caught4 ,the ,indians drink the water with impunity4 ,footnote #aja3 ,some of these feminines1 however1 have a method of retaliation which happily does not exist further north4 ,they render their husbands idiotic by giving them an infusion of floripondio1 and then choose another consort4 ,we saw a sad example of this near ,riobamba1 and heard of one husband who1 after being thus treated1 unconsciously served his wife and her new man like a slave4 ,floripondio is the seed of the ,datura sanguinea1 which is allied to the poisonous stramonium used by the priests of ,apollo at ,delphi to produce their frantic ravings4 ,footnote #ajb3 ,jacquinia armillaris1 an evergreen bush4 ,the ,indians on the ,tapajos use a poisonous liana called timb 7,paullinia pinnata74 ,the ,napos are not brave2 their chief weapons for hunting are spears of chonta wood1 and blowpipes 7bodaqueras7 made of a small palm having a pith1 which1 when removed1 leaves a polished bore1 or of two separate lengths of wood1 each scooped out with patient labor and considerable skill by means of the incisor teeth of a rodent4 ,the whole is smeared with black wax1 a mouth-piece fitted to the larger end1 and a sight made of bone imbedded in the wax4 ,through this tube1 about ten feet long1 they blow slender arrows cut from the leaf-stalks of a palm4 ,these are winged with a tuft of silk-cotton 7common cotton would be too heavy71 and poisoned with urar1 of which we shall speak hereafter4 ,this noiseless gun is universally used on the ,upper ,amazon4#ajc ,footnote #ajc3 ,it is there called zarabatana or gravatana2 by the ,peruvians pucuna4 ,it corresponds to the sumpitan of ,borneo4 ,it is difficult to recognize the use of the blow-gun1 but the natives will kill at the distance of #aej feet4 ,one which we brought home sent the slender arrow through the panel of a door4 ,the ,zaparos in physiognomy somewhat resemble the ,chinese1 having a middle stature1 round face1 small eyes set angularly1 and a broad1 flat nose4 ,their language is of simple construction1 but nasal and guttural4 ,they have no words for numbers above three1 but show their fingers2 above ten they know nothing4 ,they take to themselves single names1 not double4 ,they reckon time by moons and the ripening of certain fruits4 ,their name for ,god is ,pitzo1 but we could not learn that it conveyed any distinct idea4 ,they believe the evil spirit1 ,mungia1 is a black spectre dwelling in the woods4 ,they think the souls of the good and brave enter beautiful birds and feed on delicious fruits1 while cowardly souls become dirty reptiles4 ,polygamy is common4 ,they bury in the sitting posture1 with the hammock of the deceased wrapped around him4 ,the very old men are buried with the mouth downward4 ,they make use of a narcotic drink called ,ayahuasca1 which produces effects similar to those of opium4 ,the ,zaparos are pacific and hospitable1 but there is little social life among them2 they never cluster into large villages1 but inhabit isolated ranchos4 ,nomadic in their habits1 they wander along the banks of the ,napo1 between the ,andes and the ,maraon4 ,they manufacture1 from the twisted fibre of the chambiri-palm1#ajd most of the twine and hammocks seen in ,eastern ,ecuador4 ,their government is patriarchal4 ,footnote #ajd3 ,this thorny palm is called tucum in ,brazil4 ,the fibres of the budding top are used4 ,a woman will twist a hundred yards of twine a day1 and make a living by selling hammocks for twenty-five cents a piece4 ,the ,jvaros1 or ,red ,indians par excellence1 are the most numerous and the most spirited of the oriental tribes4 ,they are brave and resentful1 yet hospitable and industrious4 ,while the ,napos and ,zaparos live in rude1 often temporary huts of split bamboo1 the warlike ,jvaros erect houses of hard wood with strong doors4 ,blood relations live together on the communal principle1 the women keeping the rear half of the house1 which is divided by a partition4 ,many ,jvaros approach the ,caucasian type1 the beard and lighter skin hinting a percentage of ,spanish blood2 for this tribe was never conquered by the ,incas1 nor did it brook ,spanish avarice and cruelty1 but in one terrible conflict 7#aeii7 the intruder was swept out of existence4 ,the wives of the ,el ,dorado adventurers spent the rest of their days in the harems of the ,jvaros4 ,these ,indians have the singular custom and art of compressing the heads of their notable captives2 taking off the skin entire and drying it over a small mould1 they have a hideous mummy which preserves all the features of the original face1 but on a reduced scale4#aje ,they also braid the long black hair of their foes into girdles1 which they wear as mementoes of their prowess4 ,they use chonta-lances with triangular points1 notched and poisoned1 and shields of wood or hide4 ,they have a telegraphic system which enables them to concentrate their forces quickly in time of war2 large drums are placed on the tops of the hills1 and a certain number of strokes1 repeated along the line1 rapidly convey intelligence to the most distant habitation4 ,footnote #aje3 ,bates 7ii41 #acb7 speaks of a similar custom among the ancient ,mundurucus3 ,they used to sever the head with knives made of broad bamboo1 and then1 after taking out the brain and fleshy parts1 soak it in bitter vegetable oils1 and expose it several days over the smoke of a fire1 or in the sun4 ,an odd custom prevails among these wild ,indians when an addition is made to the family circle4 ,the woman goes into the woods alone1 and on her return washes herself and new-born babe in the river2 then the husband immediately takes to his bed for eight days1 during which time the wife serves him on the choicest dainties she can procure4#ajf ,they have also the unique practice of exchanging wives4 ,the ,jvaro speech is sonorous and energetic4 ,they do not use salt2 so that they distinguish the ,napo tribes as the ,indians who eat salt4 ,the chief articles manufactured by them are cotton goods and blowpipes4 ,they trade mostly at ,canlos and ,macs1 generally purchasing iron implements1 such as hatchets and knives4 ,footnote #ajf3 ,a like custom existed among some ,brazilian and ,guiana tribes4 ,it also prevailed to some extent among the ancient ,cantabrians and ,corsicans1 the ,congos and ,tartars1 and in the ,southern ,french provinces4 ,canlos consists of about seventy families of ,quichua-speaking ,indians1 and lies on the south bank of the ,bobonaza4 ,a trail connects it with ,baos1 at the foot of ,tunguragua4 ,canlos was founded in #aecf1 and derives its name from its situation in the ,canla1 or ,american cinnamon forest4 ,the bark of the tree has the flavor of the ,ceylon aromatic2 but1 according to ,dr4 ,taylor1 it is cassia4 ,macs1 in the days of ,spanish adventure a prosperous city under the name of ,sevilla de ,oro1 is now a cluster of huts on the banks of the ,upano4 ,its trade is in tobacco1 vanilla1 canela1 wax1 and copal4 ,the ,spaniards took the trouble to transplant some genuine cinnamon-trees from ,ceylon to this locality1 and they flourished for a time4 ,on the #cjth of ,october we left ,quito on our march across the continent1 by the way of the ,napo wilderness4 ,the preparations for our departure1 however1 commenced long before that date4 ,to leave ,quito in any direction is the work of time4 ,but to plunge into that terra incognita el ,oriente1 where for weeks1 perhaps months1 we should be lost to the civilized world and cut off from all resources1 east or west1 demanded more calculation and providence than a voyage round the world4 ,we were as long preparing for our journey to the ,amazon as in making it4 ,in the first place1 not a man in ,quito could give us a single item of information on the most important and dangerous part of our route4 ,quitonians are not guilty of knowing any thing about trans-,andine affairs or oriental geography4 ,from a few petty traders who had1 to the amazement of their fellow-citizens1 traversed the forest and reached the banks of the ,napo1 we gleaned some information which was of service4 ,but on the passage down the ,napo from ,santa ,rosa to the ,maraon1 a distance of over five hundred miles1 nobody had any thing to say except the delightful intelligence that in all probability1 if we escaped the fever1 we would be murdered by the savages4 ,the information we received was about as definite and reliable as ,herndon obtained respecting any tributary to the ,lower ,amazon3 ,it runs a long way up3 it has rapids2 savages live upon its banks2 every thing grows there4 ,from ,m4 ,gillette1 a ,swiss gentleman trading at ,par in ,moyabamba hats1 we learned about the movements of the ,peruvian steamer on the ,maraon2 but how long it would take us to cross the mountains and the forest1 and descend the river1 we must find out by trial4 ,the commissary department was of primal importance4 ,as1 from all we could learn1 we could not depend upon obtaining supplies from the ,indians or with our guns1#ajg it was necessary to take provisions to last till we should reach the ,maraon4 ,but how long we should be in the forest and on the river1 or what allowance to make for probable delays1 it was impossible to prophesy4 ,the utmost caution and forethought were therefore needed1 for to die of starvation in the wilderness was1 for all practical purposes1 equivalent to falling into the hands of cannibals4 ,as it turned out1 however1 we made a most fortunate hit1 for on arriving at ,pebas--the first village on the ,maraon--we found we had just enough solid food left to have one grand jubilee dinner4 ,footnote #ajg3 ,the scarcity of game is well illustrated by the fate of ,pizarro and his comrades4 ,in returning from their expedition to the ,napo country1 they nearly perished with hunger1 living on lizards1 dogs1 horses1 saddles1 sword-belts1 etc41 and reached ,quito looking more like spectres than men4 ,for the benefit of future travelers1 and for the curiosity of others1 we give the bill of fare we provided for this journey--stomachs1 five2 time1 forty-two days3 ,flour #ajj lbs4 ,corn meal #bg ,pea flour #cj ,mashka #dg ,crackers #ajj ,rice #ej ,sugar #ij ,chocolate #be ,dried meat#ajh #dg ,salt #aj ,lard #aj ,cream tartar #a-a_/b ,soda #a ,tea #b ,ham #aj ,tamarinds #i ,eggs #agj4 ,anisado pts4 #e4 ,footnote #ajh3 ,jerked beef1 as it is called in ,south ,america1 consists of thin strips cut off the carcass after skinning and dried in the sun4 ,the butchers do not distinguish between sirloin and round4 ,to this we added by purchase from the ,indians a few chickens and eggs1 five gallons of sirup1 and a peck of rice2 and on the river we helped ourselves to a little wild game1 as fish1 peccari1 deer1 and turtles' eggs4 ,but these made only a drop in the commissary bucket2 had we depended upon finding provisions on the road1 we must have perished from sheer hunger4 ,game1 in the dry season1 is exceedingly scarce4 ,our provisions were packed in kerosene cans1 a part of which were soldered up to keep out moisture 7for the ,valley of the ,napo is a steaming vapor-bath7 and to keep out the hands of ,indians4 ,more than once have these treacherous yet indispensable guides robbed the white man of his food1 and then left him to his fate2 we lost not a pound by theft4 ,a four-gallon keg of aguardiente1#aji from which we dealt out half a gill daily to each man1 kept our ,indians in good humor4 ,footnote #aji3 ,this is the rum of the ,andes1 corresponding to the cashaa of ,brazil4 ,it is distilled from sugar-cane4 ,when double-distilled and flavored with anise1 it is called anisado4 ,as we must ascend to the cold altitude of fifteen thousand feet1 and then descend to the hot ,valley of the ,amazon1 we were obliged to carry both woolen and cotton garments1 besides rubber ponchos to shield them from the rain by day1 and to form the first substratum of our bed at night4 ,two suits were needed in our long travel afoot through the forest2 one kept dry for the nightly bivouac1 the other for day service4 ,at the close of each day's journey we doffed every thread of our wearing apparel1 and donned the reserved suit1 for we were daily drenched either from the heavens above or by crossing swollen rivers and seas of mud4 ,then1 too1 as boots would not answer for such kind of travel1 we must take alpargates1 a native sandal made of the aloe fibre1 and of these not a few1 for a pair would hardly hold together two days4 ,two bales of lienzo1 besides knives1 fish-hooks1 thread1 beads1 looking-glasses1 and other trinkets1 were also needed2 for the ,napo ,indians must be paid in such currency4 ,there lienzo1 not gold and silver1 is the cry4 ,on this we made a small but lawful profit1 paying in ,quito eighteen cents per yard1 and charging on the river twenty-five4 ,an extensive culinary apparatus1 guns and ammunition1 taxidermal and medicinal chests1 physical instruments1 including a photographic establishment1 rope1 macheta1 axe1 saw1 nails1 candles1 matches1 and a thousand et ctera1 completed our outfit4 ,among the essential et ctera were generous passports and mandatory letters from the ,president of ,ecuador and the ,peruvian ,charg d',affaires1 addressed to all authorities on the ,napo and the ,maraon4 ,they were obligingly procured for us by ,seor ,hurtado1 the ,chilian minister 7then acting for the ,united ,states71 through the influence of a communication from our own government1 and were of great value to the expedition4#aaj ,footnote #aaj3 ,the following is a copy of the ,president's order3 ,,republica ,,del ,,ecuador ,ministeria de ,estado ,quito #ah de ,octubre1 en el ,despacho del ,interior4 de #ahjg4 ,,apertoria4 ,a las autoridades del transito hasta el ,napo1 i los demas empleados civiles i militares de la provincia del ,oriente3 ,el ,sor4 ,james ,orton1 ciudadano de los ,,ee4 ,,uu4 de ,amrica1 profesor de la ,universidad de ,rochester en ,nueva-,york1 i jefe de una comision cientifica del ,instituto de ,smithsonian de ,washington1 v la provincia de ,oriente con el objeto de esplorarla en cumplimiento de su encargo4 ,s4,e4 el ,presidenta de la ,repblica ordena ,u4,u4 presten al espresado ,sor4 ,orton i su comitiva cuantas consideraciones merecen sus personas1 i los ausilios i co-operacion que necesiten para verificar su viaje i hacer sus estudios i observaciones4 ,dios gue4 ,u4,u4 ,r4 ,,carvajal4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,departure from ,quito4--,itulcachi4--,a ,night in a ,bread-tray4--,crossing the ,cordillera4--,guamani4--,papallacta4--, domiciled at the ,governor's4--,an ,indian ,aristides4--,our ,peon ,train4--,in the ,wilderness4 ,forty miles east-southeast of ,quito1 on the eastern slope of the ,eastern ,cordillera1 and on the western edge of the great forest1 is the ,indian village of ,papallacta4 ,from the capital to this point there is a path just passable for horses2 but thence to the ,napo travelers must take to their feet4 ,through the intervention of the curate of ,papallacta1 who has great influence over his wild people1 but who has wit enough to reside in ,quito instead of his parish1 we engaged the ,indian governor to send over thirteen beasts and three peons to carry our party and baggage to ,papallacta4 ,wednesday morning the quadrupeds were at the door of our hotel1 five of them bestias de silla4 ,these horses1 judging by size1 color1 shape1 and bony prominences1 were of five different species4 ,the saddles1 likewise1 differed from one another1 and from any thing we had ever seen or desired to see4 ,one of them was so narrow and deep none of us could get into it2 so1 filling up the cavity with blankets1 we took turns in riding on the summit4 ,by noon1 ,october #cjth1 we had seen our ,andean collections in the hands of arrieros bound for ,guayaquil1 whence they were to be shipped by way of ,panama to ,washington1 and our baggage train for ,napo headed toward the rising sun4 ,so1 mounting our jades1 we defiled across the ,grand ,plaza and through the street of ,st4 ,augustine1 and down the ,carniceria to the ,alameda1 amid the vivas and adeos of our ,quitonian friends1 who turned out to see the largest expedition that ever left the city for the wild ,napo country since the days of ,pizarro4 ,few there were who expected to hear of our safe arrival on the shores of the ,atlantic4 ,crossing the magnificent plain of ,iaquito1 we reached in an hour the romantic village of ,gupulo4 ,here is an elegant stone church dedicated to the ,virgin of ,guadaloupe1 to which the faithful make an annual pilgrimage4 ,thence the road led us through the valley of the ,guaillabamba 7a tributary to the ,esmeraldas71 here and there blessed with signs of intelligent life--a mud hut1 and little green fields of cane and alfalfa1 and dotted with trees of wild cherry and myrtle1 but having that air of sadness and death-like repose so inseparable from a ,quitonian landscape4 ,the greater part of this day's ride was over a rolling country so barren and dreary it was almost repulsive4 ,what a pity the sun shines on so much useless territory6 ,just before sunset we arrived at ,itulcachi1 a great cattle estate at the foot of the eastern chain of mountains4 ,the hacienda had seen better days1 and was poorly fitted to entertain man or beast4 ,the major-domo1 however1 managed to make some small potato soup1 and find us shelter for the night4 ,in the room allotted us there were three immense kneading-troughs and two bread-boards to match1 for a grist-mill and bakery were connected with the establishment4 ,in default of beds1 we made use of this furniture4 ,five wiser men have slept in better berths1 but few have slept more soundly than we did in the bread-trays of ,itulcachi4 ,the following day we advanced five miles to ,tablon1 an ,indian hamlet on the mountain side4 ,here we waited over night for our cargo train1 which had loitered on the road4 ,this was the only spot in ,south ,america where we found milk to our stomachs' content2 ,itulcachi1 with its herds of cattle1 did not yield a drop4 ,our dormitory was a mud hovel1 without an aperture for light or ventilation1 and in this dark hole we all slept on a heap of barley4 ,splendid was the view westward from ,tablon4 ,below us were the beautiful valleys of ,chillo and ,puembo1 separated by the isolated mountain of ,ilal2 around them1 in an imposing semicircle1 stood ,cayambi1 ,imbabura1 ,pichincha1 ,corazon1 ,iliniza1 ,rumiagui1 ,cotopaxi1 ,sincholagua1 and ,antisana4 ,as the sun went down in his glory behind the western range1 the rocky head of ,pichincha stood out in bold relief1 and cast a long shadow over the plain4 ,at this halting-place we made the mortifying discovery that the bare-legged ,indian who had trotted by our side as a guide and body-servant1 and whom we had ordered about with all the indifference of a surly slaveholder1 was none other than his ,excellency ,eugenio ,mancheno1 governor of ,papallacta6 ,after this we were more respectful4 ,the next morning1 our baggage having come up1 we pushed up the mountain through a grand ravine1 and over metamorphic rocks standing on their edges with a wavy strike1 till we reached a polylepis grove1 #ab1jjj feet above the sea4 ,we lunched under the wide-spreading branches of these gnarled and twisted trees1 which reminded us of the patriarchal olives in the ,garden of ,gethsemane1 and then1 ascending over the monotonous paramo1 we stood at the elevation of #ae1jjj feet on the narrow summit of the ,guamani ridge4 ,some priest had been before us and planted a cross by the roadside1 to guide and bless the traveler on his way4 ,of the magnificent prospect eastward1 over the beginning of the ,amazonian ,valley1 which this lofty point commands1 we have already spoken4 ,there was a wild grandeur in the scene--mountain behind mountain1 with deep intervening valleys1 all covered with one thick1 unbroken mass of foliage4 ,a tiny brook1 the child of everlasting snows still higher up1 murmured at our feet1 as if to tell us that we were on the ,atlantic slope1 and then dashed into the great forest1 to lose itself in the mighty ,amazon1 and be buried with it in the same ocean grave4 ,the trade-wind1 too1 came rushing by us fresh from that sea of commerce which laves the shores of two worlds4 ,guamani gave us also our finest view of ,antisana1 its snow-white dome rising out of a wilderness of mountains1 and presenting on the north side a profile of the human face divine4 ,and now we rapidly descended by a steep1 narrow path1 and over paramo and bog1 to a little tambo1 where we had the luxury of sleeping on a bed of straw4 ,here we made the acquaintance of two ,indians from the ,napo1 who were on the way to ,quito with the mail--probably half a dozen letters4 ,a strip of cloth around the loins1 and a short cape just covering the shoulders1 were all their habiliments4 ,we noticed that they never sat down1 though a bench was close by them2 they would squat for an hour at a time4 ,the day following we took our last horseback ride in ,south ,america4 ,it was short1 but horrible4 ,through quagmire and swamp1 and down a flight of rocky stairs1 in striking imitation of ,general ,putnam's famous ride--over rocks1 too1 made wondrously slippery by a pitiless rain1 but which our unshod ,indian horses descended with great dexterity1 only one beast and his rider taking a somerset--thus we traveled two hours1 reaching ,papallacta at #aa ,a4,m4 ,we put up at the governor's4 ,this edifice1 the best in town1 had sides of upright poles stuccoed with mud1 a thatched roof1 and ground floor1 on which1 between three stones1 a fire was built for cookery and comfort4 ,three or four earthen kettles1 and as many calabashes and wooden spoons1 were the sum total of kitchen utensils4 ,a large flat stone1 with another smaller one to rub over it1 was the mill for grinding corn2 and we were astonished to see how quickly our hostess reduced the grains to an impalpable meal4 ,the only thing that looked like a bed was a stiff rawhide thrown over a series of round poles running lengthwise4 ,this primitive couch1 and likewise the whole house1 the obsequious governor gave up to us1 insisting upon sleeping with his wife and little ones outside1 though the nights were cold and uncomfortable4 ,parents and children were of the earth1 earthy--unwashed1 uncombed1 and disgustingly filthy4 ,we found the governor one day taking lice for his lunch4 ,sitting behind his little boy1 he picked out the little parasites with his nails1 and crushed them between his teeth with a look of satisfaction4 ,eating lice is an old ,indian custom1 and universal in the ,andes4 ,in ,inca times it was considered an infallible remedy against sore eyes4 ,we have seen half a dozen women sitting on the ground in a row1 picking out vermin from each other's heads4 ,we thought the arrangement was a little unfair1 for the first in the series had no lice to eat1 and the animals were left to roam undisturbed in the capillary forest of the last4 ,papallacta is a village of thirty dwellings1 situated in a deep valley on the north slope of ,antisana1 nearly surrounded by an amphitheatre of sandstone and basaltic precipices4 ,here1 too1 is the terminus of the fourth great lava stream from the volcano2 it is not mentioned by ,humboldt4 ,papallacta is a thousand feet higher than ,quito1 yet vegetation is more tropical4 ,its name signifies the potato country1 but not a potato could we find here4 ,though ,mancheno was governor1 he was not really the greatest man in ,papallacta4 ,this was ,carlos ,caguatijo2 he was the ruling man1 for he could read1 write1 and speak ,spanish1 while the governor knew nothing but ,quichua4 ,carlos1 moreover1 was a good man2 he had an honest1 ,quaker-like air about him1 and his face reminded us of ,george ,washington's4 ,in all his transactions we noticed no attempt to prevaricate or deceive2 what he promised he performed to the letter4 ,it was refreshing to meet one such upright soul in ,ecuador1 though we found him not of ,caucasian blood1 nor dwelling under the tiled roofs of the proud capital4 ,the old man was the spiritual father of ,papallacta1 and1 in the absence of the curate1 officiated in the little church4 ,with him1 therefore1 and not with our host the governor1 we negotiated for peons to take us through the wilderness4 ,the journey from ,papallacta to the ,napo occupied us thirteen days1 including four days of rest4 ,it was performed on foot1 for the road is a trail4 ,but the untraveled reader can have little idea of a trail in a tropical forest3 fording bridgeless rivers1 wading through interminable bogs1 fens1 marshes1 quagmires1 and swamps1 and cutting one's way through dense vegetation1 must be done to be understood4 ,half the year there is no intercourse between ,quito and its ,oriental province1 for the incessant heavy rains of summer swell every rivulet into a furious torrent1 and the path is overgrown and rendered impassable even by an ,indian4 ,the only time for travel is between ,november and ,april1 for then1 though it rains nearly every day1 the clouds drop down in showers1 not floods4 ,but even then the traveler must sometimes wait two or three weeks beside a swollen river in imminent danger of starving1 and throughout the journey entertain the comforting prospect that his ,indians may eat up his provisions to lighten their load1 or suddenly desert him as they did ,dr4 ,jameson4 ,there are other routes across ,south ,america much more feasible than the one we chose2 these will be described in ,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,but they all yield in interest to this passage along the equatorial line1 and especially in the line of history4 ,who has not heard of ,gonzalo ,pizarro and his fatal yet famous expedition into the land of cinnamon8 ,how he was led farther and farther into the wilderness by the glittering illusions of an ,el ,dorado1#aaa till the faithless ,orellana1 deserting him1 floated down the ,napo and made the magnificent discovery of the mighty ,amazon4 ,gonzalo1 who was held to be the best lancer that ever went to these countries--and all confess that he never showed his back to the enemy--returned to ,quito with a few survivors to tell a tale of almost unparalleled suffering4 ,a century elapsed 7#aecj-afcg7 before any one ascended from ,par to ,quito by way of the ,rio ,napo2 this was accomplished by ,pedro ,teixeira4 ,illustration3 ,napo ,peon4 ,footnote #aaa3 ,the king of this fabulous land was said to wear a magnificent attire fragrant with a costly gum1 and sprinkled with gold dust4 ,his palace was of porphyry and alabaster1 and his throne of ivory4 ,an ,indian will carry three arrobas 7seventy-five pounds7 besides his own provisions1 his provisions for the journey consisting of about twenty-five pounds of roasted corn and barley-meal4 ,the trunk or bundle is bound to his back by withes1 which pass across the forehead and chest2 a poncho or a handful of leaves protects the bare back from chafing4 ,all our luggage 7amounting to nearly fifteen hundred pounds7 was divided and packed to suit this method of transportation1 so that we required twenty ,indians4 ,so many1 however1 of the right kind--for they must be athletic young men to endure the fatigues of such a journey--could not be furnished by the little village of ,papallacta1 so we were obliged to wait a few days till more ,indians could be summoned from a neighboring town4 ,when these arrived1 the little world of ,papallacta1 men1 women1 and children1 assembled in front of the governor's house1 while ,don ,carlos sat by our side on a raised seat by the doorway4 ,a long parley ensued1 resulting in this3 that we should pay one hundred ,ecuadorian dollars for the transfer of our baggage to ,archidona2 while ,carlos solemnly promised for the young men that they should start the next morning1 that they should arrive at ,archidona within a stipulated time1 and that they should not depend upon us for an ounce of food4 ,the powerful influence of the curate1 which we had secured1 and the proclamation from the president1 which ,carlos read aloud in the ears of all the people1 together with the authoritative charge of ,carlos himself1 had the desired effect2 not a transportation company in the ,united ,states ever kept its engagement more faithfully than did these twenty peons--and this1 too1 though we paid them in advance1 according to the custom of the country4 ,upon a blanket spread at our feet the money was counted out1 and ,carlos slowly distributed it with a grave and reverend air1 to every ,indian five dollars4#aab ,footnote #aab3 ,we give below the autograph of this wisest man in all the ,oriente3 ,recibio del ,seor ,james ,orton la suma de centos 7#ajj7 pesos por vente 7#bj7 peones hasta ,archidona4 ,illustration3 reproduction of a signature is here ,papallacta1 #d ,nov41 #ahfg4 ,tuesday morning1 ,november #eth1 the peons promptly shouldered their burdens1 and we1 shod with alpargates1 and with ,alpine staff in hand 7more needed here than in ,switzerland71 followed after1 leaving the governor to sleep inside his mansion1 and to eat his lice unmolested4 ,on a little grassy knoll just outside the town our train halted for a moment--the ,indians to take their fill of chicha1 and bid their friends good-by1 and we to call the roll and take an inventory4 ,our leader was ,isiro1 a bright1 intelligent1 finely-featured1 stalwart ,indian4 ,he could speak ,spanish1 and his comrades acknowledged his superiority with marked deference4 ,ten women and children followed us for two days1 to relieve the men of their burdens4 ,their assistance was not needed in the latter part of the journey1 for our keen appetites rapidly lightened the provision cans4 ,starting again1 we plunged at once into the forest1 taking a northeasterly course along the left bank of a tributary to the ,coca4 ,the ups and downs of this day's travel of twelve miles were foreshadowings of what might come in our views afoot in ,south ,america4 ,we encamped at a spot the ,indians called ,maspa4 ,herndon says3 ,the 7,peruvian7 ,indians take no account of time or distance2 they stop when they get tired1 and arrive when ,god pleases4#aac ,but our ,napo companions measured distance by hours quite accurately1 and they always traveled as far as we were willing to follow4 ,in ten minutes they built us a booth for the night2 driving two crotchets into the ground1 they joined them with a ridge-pole1 against which they inclined a number of sticks for rafters4 ,these they covered with palm-leaves1 so adroitly put together that our roof was generally rain-proof4 ,after ablution and an entire change of garments1 we built a fire1 using for fuel a green tree called sindicaspi 7meaning the wood that burns71 a special provision in these damp forests where every thing is dripping with moisture4 ,the fall of a full-grown tree under the strokes of a ,yankee axe was a marvel in the eyes of our ,indians4 ,our second day's journey was far more difficult than the first1 the path winding up steep mountains and down into grand ravines1 for we were crossing the outlying spurs of the ,eastern ,cordillera4 ,every where the track was slippery with mud1 and often we sank two feet into the mire4 ,how devoutly we did wish that the ,ecuadorian ,congress was compelled to travel this horrid road once a year6 ,at #aj o'clock we reached a lone habitation called ,guila1 where wooden bowls are made for the ,quito market4 ,here we procured a fresh ,indian to take the place of one of our peons who had given out under his burden4 ,we advanced this day sixteen miles in ten hours1 sleeping under an old bamboo hut beside a babbling brook bearing the euphonious name of ,pachamama4 ,footnote #aac3 ,distance is frequently estimated by the time that a man will occupy in taking a chew of coca1 or #cg-a_/b minutes4--,herndon4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,baeza4--,the ,forest4--,crossing the ,cosanga4--,curi-urcu4--,archidona4--,ap pearance1 ,customs1 and ,belief of the ,natives4--,napo and ,napo ,river4 ,eight hours' hard travel from ,pachamama brought us to ,baeza4 ,this ,antigua ,ciudad1 as ,villavicencio calls it1 was founded in #aeeb by ,don ,egilio ,ramirez ,dvalos1 and named after the quite different spot where ,scipio the ,younger routed ,asdrubal a thousand years before4 ,it consists of two habitations1 the residence of two families of ,tumbaco ,indians1 situated in a clearing of the forest on the summit of a high ridge running along the right bank of the ,coca4 ,this point1 about one hundred miles east of ,quito1 is important in the little traffic of the ,oriente4 ,all ,indian trains from the capital to the province pass through ,baeza1 where the trail divides2 one branch passing on easterly to ,san ,jos1 and thence down through ,abila and ,loreto to ,santa ,rosa2 the other leading to the ,napo through ,archidona4 ,here we rested one day1 taking possession of one half of the larger hut--a mere stockade with a palm-leaf roof1 without chairs1 chimney1 or fire-place1 except any place on the floor4 ,we swung our hammocks1 while our ,indians stretched themselves on the ground beneath us4 ,the island of ,juan ,fernandez is not a more isolated spot than ,baeza4 ,a dense forest1 impenetrable save by the trails1 stretches away on every side to the ,andes and to the ,atlantic1 and northerly and southerly along the slope of the entire mountain chain4 ,the forest is such an entangled mass of the living and the fallen1 it is difficult to say which is the predominant spirit--life or death4 ,it is the cemetery1 as well as the birthplace1 of a world of vegetation4 ,the trees are more lofty than on the ,lower ,amazon1 and straight as an arrow1 but we saw none of remarkable size4 ,a perpetual mist seems to hang on the branches1 and the dense foliage forms dark1 lofty vaults1 which the sunlight never enters4 ,the soil and air are always cool1 and never dry4 ,every thing is penetrated with dampness4 ,all our watches stopped1 and remained immovable till we reached ,par4 ,it is this constant and excessive humidity which renders it so difficult to transport provisions or prepare an herbarium4 ,the pending branches of moss are so saturated with moisture that sometimes the branches are broken off to the peril of the passing traveler4 ,yet the climate is healthy4 ,the stillness and gloom are almost painful2 the firing of a gun wakes a dull echo1 and any unlooked-for noise is startling4 ,scarce a bird or a flower is to be seen in these sombre shades4 ,nearly the only signs of animal life visible thus far were insects1 mostly butterflies1 fire-flies1 and beetles4 ,the only quadruped seen on our journey to the ,napo was a long-tailed marten caught by the ,indians4 ,the silence is almost perfect2 its chief interruption is the crashing fall of some old patriarch of the forest1 overcome by the embrace of loving parasites that twine themselves about the trunk or sit upon the branches4 ,the most striking singularity in these tropical woods is the host of lianas or air-roots of epiphytous plants1 which hang down from the lofty boughs1 straight as plumb-lines1 some singly1 others in clusters2 some reaching half way to the ground1 others touching it and striking their rootlets into the earth4 ,we found lianas over one hundred feet long4 ,sometimes a toppling tree is caught in the graceful arms of looping sips1 and held for years by this natural cable4 ,it is these dead trunks1 standing like skeletons1 which give a character of solemnity to these primeval woods4 ,the wildest disorder is seen along the mountain torrents1 where the trees1 prostrated by the undermining current1 lie mingled with huge stones brought down by the force of the water4 ,in many places the crowns of stately monarchs standing on the bank interlock and form a sylvan arch over the river4 ,we left ,baeza by the southerly trail for ,archidona4 ,from ,papallacta we had traveled east1 or parallel to the streams which flow down from the mountains4 ,we were now to cross them 7and their name is legion71 as also the intervening ridges2 so that our previous journey was nothing to that which followed4 ,sometimes we were climbing up an almost vertical ascent1 then descending into a deep1 dark ravine1 to ford a furious river2 while on the lowlands the path seemed lost in a jungle of bamboos1 till our ,indian bushwhackers opened a passage with their machetas1 and we crept under a low arcade of foliage4 ,this day we enjoyed something unusual in our forest trail--a distant view4 ,the path brought us to the verge of a mountain1 whence we could look down on the savage valley of the ,cosanga and upward to the dazzling dome of ,antisana2 it was our farewell view of that glorious volcano4 ,at the distance of twelve miles from ,baeza we reached the banks of the ,rio ,cosanga1 camping at a spot called ,chiniplaya4 ,this is the river so much dreaded by ,indians and whites traversing the ,napo wilderness4 ,it is fearfully rapid--a very ,tigris from its source to its junction with the ,coca4 ,the large1 smooth boulders strewn along its bed show its power4 ,here1 sixty miles from its origin in the glaciers of ,antisana1 it is seventy-five feet wide1 but in the wet season it is one hundred yards4 ,the day following we threaded our difficult way1 a via dolorosa1 fifteen miles up the left bank of the ,cosanga1 where we crossed and camped on the opposite side4 ,the ,indians had thrown a log over the deepest part of the river1 and the rest we forded without much danger2 but that very night the rain raised the river to such a magnitude that the little bridge was carried off4 ,had we been one day later1 we might have waited a week on the other side of the impassable gulf4 ,between this point where we forded and ,chiniplaya1 fifteen miles below1 the barometer indicated a fall of five hundred feet4 ,the roar of the rushing waters is like that of the sea4 ,in the beautiful language of ,darwin 7,journal1 p4 #caf73 ,the sound spoke eloquently to the geologist2 the thousands and thousands of stones1 which1 striking against each other1 made the one dull1 uniform sound1 were all hurrying in one direction4 ,it was like thinking on time1 when the minute that now glides past is irrecoverable4 ,so was it with these stones4 ,the ocean is their eternity1 and each note of that wild music told of one more step toward their destiny4 ,on account of the heavy rain and the sickness of a peon1 whom finally we were obliged to leave behind1 we rested one day2 but on the morrow we traveled fourteen miles1 crossing the lofty ,guacamayo ridge1#aad fording at much risk the deep ,cochachimbamba1 and camping at a spot 7the ,indians have a name for almost any locality in the forest7 called ,guayusapugaru4 ,the next day we must have advanced twenty miles1 besides crossing the furious ,hondachi4 ,this river was very much swollen by the rains1 and it was only by the aid of a rope that we made the passage4 ,one stout ,indian was carried down stream1 but soon recovered himself4 ,footnote #aad3 ,humboldt speaks of this as an active volcano1 from which detonations are heard almost daily4 ,we heard nothing4 ,it is possible that he meant ,guamani4 ,as we had lowered our altitude since leaving ,papallacta seven thousand feet1 the climate was much warmer1 and vegetation more prolific4 ,nowhere else between the ,andes and the ,atlantic did we notice such a majestic forest4 ,the tree-ferns1 ennobled by the tropical sun and soil1 have a palm-like appearance1 but with rougher stems and a usual height of fifty feet4 ,plants akin to our scouring rush rise twenty-five feet4 ,we saw to-day the water tree1 or huadhuas of the natives1 a kind of bamboo1 which sometimes yields between the joints two quarts of clear1 taste-less water4 ,late in the evening we reached an old rancho called ,curi-urcu 7the mountain of gold72 but we had traveled so far ahead of our cargo-train we did not see it again till the next morning4 ,we were obliged1 therefore1 to sleep on the ground in our wet clothes1 and put up with hard commons--half parched corn1 which our ,indian guides gave us1 and unleavened cakes or flour-paste baked on the coals4 ,thence1 after a short day's journey of ten miles1 we arrived at ,archidona1 by a path1 however1 that was slippery with a soft yellow clay4 ,we were a sorry-looking company1 soaked by incessant rains1 exhausted by perspiration1 plastered with mud1 tattered1 and torn2 but we were kindly met by the ,jesuit bishop1 who took us to his own habitation1 where one ,indian washed our feet1 and another prepared a most refreshing drink of guayusa tea4 ,we then took up our quarters at the ,government ,house1 opposite the bishop's1 sojourning several days on account of our swollen feet1 and also on account of a swollen river which ran between us and the ,napo4 ,here we made a valuable collection of birds1 lizards1 fishes1 and butterflies4 ,archidona is situated in a beautiful plain on the high northern bank of the ,misagualli1 two thousand feet above the ,atlantic4 ,the site is a cleared spot in the heart of an almost boundless forest2 and it was a relief1 not easily conceived1 to emerge from beneath the dense leafy canopy into this open space and look up to the sky and to the snowy ,andes4 ,the climate is uniform and delightful1 the mean annual temperature being seventy-seven degrees4 ,sand-flies1 however1 resembling our punkies1 abound2 and the natives are constantly slapping their naked sides1 eating the little pests as the ,papallactans do their lice4#aae ,archidona is the largest village in the ,napo country1 containing about five hundred souls4 ,the houses are of split bamboo and palm-thatch1 often hid in a plantation of yuca and plantain4 ,the central and most important structure is the little church2 its rude belfry1 portico1 chancel1 images1 and other attempts at ornament remind us of the fitting words of ,mrs4 ,agassiz1 that there is something touching in the idea that these poor1 uneducated people of the forest have cared to build themselves a temple with their own hands1 lavishing upon it such ideas of beauty and taste as they have1 and bringing at least their best to their humble altar4 ,founded by ,dvalos in #aefj1 ,archidona has been a missionary station for two hundred years4 ,the people are child-like and docile1 but the bishop confessed there was no intellectual advance4 ,every morning and evening1 at the tinkling of a little bell1 all ,archidona assembled in the open porch1 where the bishop taught them to sing and pray4 ,it was a novel sight to see these children of the forest coming out of the woods on all sides and running up to the temple--for these natives1 whenever they move1 almost invariably go on a run4 ,the men are tall and slim and of a dark red color1 and their legs are bent backward at the knees4 ,the governor was the only portly individual we saw4 ,the women are short1 with high shoulders1 and are very timid2 they seldom stand erect1 and with the knees bent forward they run sneakingly to church4 ,their eyes have a characteristic1 soft1 drooping look4 ,they carry their babes generally on the hip2 not on the back1 as in ,quito4 ,the men are hatless1 shirtless1 and shoeless2 their only garments are short drawers1 about six inches long1 and little ponchos1 both of lienzo1 dyed a dark purple with achote--the red seeds of the bixa1 which the cooks of ,quito use to color their soups4 ,all paint their bodies with the same pigment4 ,the women wear a frock reaching from the waist to the knees2 it is nothing more than a yard or two of lienzo wound around the body4 ,the ,archidonians are the most ,christianized of all the ,napo ,indians1 but they can not be called religious4 ,their rites 7they can hardly be said to have a creed7 are the a1 b1 c1 of ,romanism1 mingled with some strange notions--the relics of a lost paganism4 ,they are very superstitious1 and believe1 as before remarked1 in the transmigration of souls4 ,maniacs they think are possessed by an evil demon1 and therefore are treated with great cruelty4 ,negroes 7of whom a few specimens have come up the ,napo from ,brazil7 are held to be under the ban of the ,almighty1 and their color is ascribed to the singeing which they got in the flames of hell4 ,they do not believe in disease2 but1 like the ,mundurucus on the ,tapajos1 say that death is always caused by the sorceries of an enemy4 ,they usually bury in the church or in the tambo of the deceased4 ,celibacy and polygamy1 homicide and suicide1 are rare4 ,footnote #aae3 ,the ,chasuta ,indians1 ,herndon says1 eat musquitoes that they catch on their bodies with the idea of restoring the blood which the insect has abstracted4 ,the only sign of industry in ,archidona is the manufacture of pita thread from the aloe4 ,it is exported to ,quito on human backs4 ,the inhabitants also collect copal at the headwaters of the ,hondachi1 and use it for illumination4 ,it can be bought in ,archidona for three or four cents a pound4 ,the gum exudes from a lofty leguminous tree having an oak-like bark4 ,it resembles the anim of ,madagascar rather than the copal of ,india1 which flows from an entirely different tree4 ,guayusa1 or ,napo tea1 is another and celebrated production of ,archidona4 ,it is the large leaf of a tall shrub growing wild4 ,an infusion of guayusa1 like the mat of ,paraguay 7which belongs to the same genus ,ilex71 is so refreshing it supplies for a long time the place of food4 ,the ,indians will go to ,quito on this beverage alone1 its virtues being similar to those of coca1 on the strength of which the posts of the ,incas used to travel incredible distances4 ,it is by no means1 however1 such a stimulant4 ,it is a singular fact1 observes ,dr4 ,jameson1 that tea1 coffee1 cacao1 mat1 and guayusa contain the same alkaloid caffeine4 ,the last1 however1 contains only one fifteenth as much of the active principle as tea1 and no volatile oil4 ,herndon found guayusa on the ,ucayali4 ,at ,archidona we took a new set of peons for ,napo1 as the ,papallactans do not travel farther4 ,the distance is sixteen miles1 and the path is comparatively good1 though it crosses two rivers1 the ,misagualli and ,tena4 ,on this journey we found the only serpent seen since leaving ,quito4 ,this solitary specimen was sluggish and harmless1 but exceedingly beautiful4 ,it was the ,amphisboena fuliginosa1 or slow-worm4 ,it lives in the chambers of the ,saba ants4 ,we met a procession of these ants1 each carrying a circular piece of a leaf vertically over its head4 ,these insects are peculiar to tropical ,america1 and are much dreaded in ,brazil1 where they soon despoil valuable trees of their foliage4 ,they cut the leaves with their scissor-like jaws1 and use them to thatch the domes at the entrance of their subterranean dwellings4 ,at ,napo we took possession of the governor's house4 ,each village in the ,napo province was obliged to build an edifice of split bamboo for that dignitary2 and1 as he no longer exists1 they are left unoccupied4 ,they generally stand on the highest and best site in the town1 and are a god-send to travelers4 ,immediately on our arrival1 the ,indian governor and his staff of justices called to see what we wanted1 and during our stay supplied us with chickens1 eggs1 plantains1 yucas1 and fuel4 ,his excellency would always come1 silver-headed cane in hand1 though the justices had only six eggs or a single fowl to bring us4 ,the alcalde also paid us his respects4 ,he is an old blanco 7as the whites are called71 doing a little traffic in gold dust1 lienzo1 and pita1 but is the highest representative of ,ecuador in the ,napo country4 ,here1 too1 we met1 to our great delight1 ,mr4 ,george ,edwards1 a native of ,connecticut1 who has settled himself1 probably for life1 in the depths of this wilderness4 ,he was equally rejoiced to see the face and hear the speech of a countryman4 ,his industry and upright character have won for him the respect and good-will of the ,indians1 and he is favorably known in ,quito4 ,the government has given him a tract of land on the ,yusupino1 two miles west of ,napo village4 ,here he is cultivating vanilla1 of which he has now three thousand plants1 and also his patience1 for six years elapse after transplanting before a pod appears4 ,he has been so long in the country 7thirteen years7 his ,english would now and then run off into ,spanish or ,quichua4 ,napo is prettily situated on the left bank of the ,rio ,napo1 a dense forest inclosing it on every side4 ,the maximum number of inhabitants is eighty families2 but many of these are in town only in festival seasons4 ,it was well for us that we reached the ,napo during the feasts2 otherwise we might not have found men enough to man our canoes down the river4 ,there are three or four blancos1 petty merchants1 who follow the old ,spanish practice of compulsory sales1 forcing the ,indians to take lienzo1 knives1 beads1 etc41 at exorbitant prices1 and making them pay in gold dust and pita4 ,this kind of commerce is known under the name of repartos4 ,it is hard to find an ,indian whose gold or whose labor is not claimed by the blancos4 ,the present and possible productions of this region are3 bananas1 plantains1 yucas1#aaf yams1 sweet potatoes1 rice1 beans1 corn1 lemons1 oranges1 chirimoyas1 anonas 7a similar fruit to the preceding71 pine-apples1 palm cabbages1 guavas1 guayavas1 castor-oil beans1 coffee1 cacao1 cinnamon1 ,india-rubber1 vanilla 7two kinds71#aag chonta-palm nuts1 sarsaparilla1 contrayerva 7a mint71 tobacco 7of superior quality71 and guayusa2 of woods1 balsam1 red wood1 ,brazil wood1 palo de cruz1 palo de sangre1 ramo caspi1 quilla caspi1 guayacan 7or holy wood1 being much used for images71 ivory palm1 a kind of ebony1 cedar1 and aguana 7the last two used for making canoes72 of dyewoods1 sarne 7dark red71 tinta 7blue71 terriri1 and quito 7black72 of gums1 estoraque 7a balsam7 and copal1 besides a black beeswax1 the production of a small 7,trigona7 bee1 that builds its comb in the ground2 of manufactures1 pita1 hammocks1 twine1 calabashes1 aguardiente 7from the plantain71 chicha 7from the yuca71#aah sugar and molasses 7from the cane1 which grows luxuriantly71 and manati-lard2 of minerals1 gold dust4 ,the gold1 in minute spangles1 is washed down by the rivers at flood time1 chiefly from the ,llanganati ,mountains4 ,the articles desired in exchange are lienzo1 thread1 needles1 axes1 hoes1 knives1 fish-hooks1 rings1 medals1 crosses1 beads1 mirrors1 salt1 and poison4 ,quito nearly monopolizes the trade2 though a few canoes go down the ,napo to the ,maraon after salt and poison4 ,the salt comes from near ,chasuta1 on the ,huallaga2#aai the urari from the ,ticuna ,indians4 ,it takes about twenty days to paddle down to the ,maraon1 and three months to pole up4 ,the ,napo is navigable for a flat-bottomed steamer as far as ,santa ,rosa1#abj and it is a wonder that ,anglo-,saxon enterprise has not put one upon these waters4 ,the profits would be great1 as soon as commercial relations with the various tribes were established4#aba ,four yards of coarse cotton cloth1 for example1 will exchange for one hundred pounds of sarsaparilla4 ,urari is sold at ,napo for its weight in silver4 ,by a decree of the ,ecuadorian ,congress1 there will be no duty on foreign goods entering the ,napo for twenty years4 ,the ,napo region1 under proper cultivation1 would yield the most valuable productions of either hemisphere in profusion4 ,but agriculture is unknown2 there is no word for plow4 ,the natives spend most of their time in idleness1 or feasting and hunting4 ,their weapons are blow-guns and wooden spears2 our guns they call by a word which signifies thunder and lightning4 ,laying up for the future or for commerce is foreign to their ideas4 ,the houses are all built of bamboo tied together with lianas1 and shingled with leaves of the sunipanga palm4 ,the ,indians are peaceful1 good-natured1 and idle4 ,they seldom steal any thing but food4 ,their only stimulants are chicha1 guayusa1 and tobacco4 ,this last they roll up in plantain leaves and smoke1 or snuff an infusion of it through the nose from the upper bill of a toucan4 ,the ,peruvians 7says ,prescott1 quoting ,garcilasso7 differ from every other ,indian nation to whom tobacco was known by using it only for medicinal purposes in the form of snuff4 ,there is no bread on the ,napo2 the nearest approach to flour is yuca starch4 ,there are no clocks or watches2 time is measured by the position of the sun4 ,the mean temperature at ,napo village is about one degree warmer than that of ,archidona4 ,its altitude above the sea is #adej feet4 ,the nights are cool1 and there are no musquitoes2 but sand-flies are innumerable4 ,jiggers also have been seen4 ,there are no well-defined wet and dry seasons2 but the most rain falls in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,the lightning1 ,edwards informed us1 seldom strikes4 ,dysentery1 fevers1 and rheumatism are the prevailing diseases2 and we saw one case of gotre4 ,but the climate is considered salubrious4 ,few twins are born2 and there are fewer children than in ,archidona--a difference ascribed by some to the exposure of the ,napo people in gold washing2 by others to the greater quantity of guayusa drunk by the ,archidonians4 ,footnote #aaf3 ,sometimes called yuca dulce1 or sweet yuca1 to distinguish it from the yuca brava1 or wild yuca1 the mandioca of the ,amazon1 from which farina is made4 ,the yuca is the beet-like root of a little tree about ten feet high4 ,it is a good substitute for potatoes and bread4 ,footnote #aag3 ,vanilla belongs to the orchid family1 and is the only member which possesses any economical value4 ,it is a graceful climber and has a pretty star-like flower4 ,footnote #aah3 ,in ,peru1 the liquor made from yuca is called masato4 ,footnote #aai3 ,rock-salt is found on both sides of the ,andes4 ,the general character of the geology of these countries would rather lead to the opinion that its origin is in some way connected with volcanic heat at the bottom of the sea4--,darwin's ,observations1 pt4 iii41 p4 #bce4 ,footnote #abj3 ,the ,napo 7,herndon was told7 is very full of sand-banks1 and twenty days from its mouth 7or near the confluence of the ,curaray7 the men have to get overboard and drag the canoes6--,report1 p4 #bbi4 ,footnote #aba3 ,the chief difficulty throughout the ,upper ,amazon is in getting the ,indians to concentrate along the bank4 ,but honorable dealing would accomplish this in time4 ,the ,napo is the largest river in the republic4 ,from its source in the oriental defiles of ,cotopaxi and ,sincholagua to its embouchure at the ,maraon1 its length is not far from eight hundred miles1 or about twice that of the ,susquehanna4#abb ,from ,napo village to the mouth of the river our barometer showed a fall of a thousand feet4 ,at ,napo the current is six miles an hour2 between ,napo and ,santa ,rosa there are rapids2 and between ,santa ,rosa and the ,maraon the rate is not less than four miles an hour4 ,at ,napo the breadth is about forty yards2 at ,coca the main channel is fifteen hundred feet wide2 and at ,camindo it is a full ,spanish mile4 ,below ,coca the river throws out numerous canals1 which1 isolating portions of the forest-clad lowlands1 create numerous picturesque islands4 ,around and between them the river winds1 usually making one bend in every league4 ,the tall trees covering them are bound together by creeping plants into a thick jungle1 the home of capybaras and the lair of the jaguar4 ,the islands1 entirely alluvial1 are periodically flooded1 and undergo a constant round of decay and renovation4 ,indeed1 the whole river annually changes its channel1 so that navigation is somewhat difficult4 ,the ,indians1 on coming to a fork1 were frequently at a loss to know which was the main channel4 ,then1 too1 the river is full of snags and plaias1 or low1 shelving sand-banks1 rising just above the water-level--the resort of turtles during the egg season4 ,it was interesting to trace the bed of the river as we floated down2 on the rapid slope of the ,cordilleras rushing over or rolling along huge boulders1 which farther on were rapidly reduced in size1 till1 in time1 boulders were broken into pebbles1 pebbles turned into sand1 and sand reduced to impalpable mud4#abc ,the plaias are not auriferous4 ,below ,coca there is a wilderness of lagunes1 all connected with the river1 the undisturbed retreat of innumerable water-fowl4 ,the only spot on the ,napo where the underlying rocks are exposed is near ,napo village4 ,there it is a dark slate1 gently dipping east4 ,farther west1 in fact1 throughout this side of the ,andes1 the prevailing rock is mica-schist4 ,but the entire ,napo country is covered with an alluvial bed1 on the average ten feet thick4 ,footnote #abb3 ,its actual source is the ,rio del ,valle1 which runs northward through the ,valle ,vicioso4 ,its longest tributary1 the ,curaray1 rises only a few miles to the south in the ,cordillera de los ,mulatos4 ,the two rivers run side by side #d of longitude before meeting4 ,coca1 the northern branch1 originates in the flanks of ,cayambi4 ,the ,napo and its branches are represented incorrectly in every map we have examined4 ,the ,aguarico is confounded with the ,santa ,maria and made too long1 and the ,curaray is represented too far above the mouth of the ,napo4 ,there are no settlements between ,coca and ,camindo4 ,footnote #abc3 ,from specimens of sand which we obtained at different points in descending the river1 we find that at ,coca it contains #ag4e per cent4 of pure quartz grains1 the rest being colored dark with augite3 at the mouth of the ,napo there is #ej per cent4 of pure quartz1 the other half being light-colored and feldspathic4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,afloat on the ,napo4--,down the ,rapids4--,santa ,rosa and its mulish ,alcalde4--,pratt on ,discipline4--,forest ,music4--,coca4--,our ,craft and ,crew4--,storm on the ,napo4 ,we embarked ,november #bjth on our voyage down the river4 ,it is no easy matter to hire or cajole the ,indians for any service4 ,out of feast-time they are out of town1 and during the festival they are loth to leave1 or are so full of chicha they do not know what they want4 ,we first woke up the indolent alcalde by showing him the ,president's order1 and then used him to entice or to compel 7we know not his motive power7 eight ,indians1 including the governor1 to take us to ,santa ,rosa4 ,we paid them about twenty-four yards of lienzo1 the usual currency here4 ,they furnished three canoes1 two for baggage and one covered with a palm-leaf awning for ourselves4 ,the canoes were of red cedar1 and flat-bottomed2 the paddles had oval blades1 to which short1 quick strokes were given perpendicularly to the water entering and leaving4 ,but there was little need of paddling on this trip4 ,the ,napo starts off in furious haste1 for the fall between ,napo village and ,santa ,rosa1 a distance of eighty miles1 is three hundred and fifty feet4 ,we were about seven hours in the voyage down1 and it takes seven days to pole back4 ,the passage of the rapids is dangerous to all but an ,indian4 ,as ,wallace says of a spot on the ,rio ,negro1 you are bewildered by the conflicting motions of the water4 ,whirling and boiling eddies burst as if from some subaqueous explosion2 down currents are on one side of the canoe1 and an up current on the other2 now a cross stream at the bows and a diagonal one at the stern1 with a foaming ,scylla on your right and a whirling ,charybdis on the left4 ,but our nervousness gave way to admiration as our popero1 or pilot1 the sedate governor1 gave the canoe a sheer with the swoop of his long paddle1 turning it gracefully around the corner of a rock against which it seemed we must be dashed1 and we felt like joining in the wild scream of the ,indians as our little craft shot like an arrow past the danger and down the rapids1 and danced on the waters below4 ,in four hours we were abreast the little village of ,aguano2 on the opposite bank we could see the tambos of the gold washers4 ,at #e ,p4,m4 we reached the deserted site of ,old ,santa ,rosa1 the village having been removed a few years ago on account of its unhealthy location4 ,it is now overgrown with sour orange and calabash trees1 the latter bearing large fruit shells so useful to the ,indians in making pilches or cups4 ,in pitch darkness and in a drizzling rain we arrived at ,new ,santa ,rosa1 and swung our hammocks in the ,government ,house4 ,santa ,rosa1 once the prosperous capital of the ,provincia del ,oriente1 now contains about two hundred men1 women1 and children4 ,the town is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river1 about fifteen feet above the water level4 ,a little bamboo church1 open only when the missionary from ,archidona makes his annual visit1 stood near our quarters4 ,the ,indians were keeping one of their seven feasts in a hut near by1 and their drumming was the last thing we heard as we turned into our hammocks1 and the first in the morning4 ,the alcalde1 ,pablo ,sandoval1 is the only white inhabitant1 and he is an ,indian in every respect save speech and color4 ,his habitation is one of the largest structures on the ,napo2 the posts are of chonta-palm1 the sides and roof of the usual material--split bamboo and palm leaves4 ,it is embowered in a magnificent grove of plantains and papayas4 ,in the spacious vestibule is a bench1 on which the ,indian governor and his staff seat themselves every morning to confer with the alcalde4 ,in one corner stands a table 7the only one we remember seeing on the ,napo72 on the opposite side are heaped up jars1 pots1 kettles1 hunting and fishing implements1 paddles1 bows and arrows4 ,between the posts swing two chambiri hammocks4 ,from ,santa ,rosa to ,par the hammock answers for chair1 sofa1 tte--tte1 and bed4 ,when a stranger enters1 he is invited to sit in a hammock2 and at ,santa ,rosa we were always presented with a cup of guayusa2 in ,brazil with a cup of coffee4 ,sandoval wore nothing but shirt and pantaloons2 the dignity of the barefooted functionary was confined to his ,spanish blood4 ,he had lived long among the ,zaparos2 and from him1 his daughter1 and a ,zaparo servant1 we obtained much valuable information respecting that wild and little-known tribe4 ,illustration3 ,papaya-tree4 ,at ,santa ,rosa we procured ,indians and canoes for the ,maraon4 ,this was not easily done4 ,the ,indians seemed reluctant to quit their feasts and go on such a long voyage1 and the alcalde was unwilling they should go1 and manufactured a host of lies and excuses4 ,he declared there was but one large canoe in town1 and that we must send to ,suno for another1 and for men to man it4 ,there were indeed few ,indians in ,santa ,rosa1 for while we were disputing a largo number went off with shoutings down the river1 to spend weeks in the forest hunting monkeys4#abd ,it was a stirring sight to see these untamed red men in the depths of the ,napo wilderness starting on a monkey crusade2 but it was still more stirring to think of paddling our own canoe down to ,brazil4 ,after some time lost in word-fighting1 we tried the virtues of authority4 ,we presented the president's order1 which commanded all civil and military powers on the ,napo to aid1 and not to hinder1 the expedition2 then we put into his hand an official letter from the alcalde of ,napo 7to whom ,pablo was subordinate71 which1 with a flourish of dignified ,spanish1 threatened ,santa ,rosa with the doom of ,sodom and ,gomorrah if any impediment was placed in our way4 ,footnote #abd3 ,monkeys form an article of food throughout tropical ,america4 ,the meat is tough1 but keeps longer than any other in that climate4 ,the ,indians told ,gibbon that the tail is the most delicate part when the hair is properly singed4 ,to all this ,edwards1 who had kindly accompanied us down the river thus far1 added1 with frightful gestures1 that he purposed to report him to the ,quito government4 ,after this bombardment ,sandoval was another man1 and the two canoes and four ,indians we wanted were forthcoming4 ,we had to wait1 however1 two days for the ,indians to prepare their chicha for the journey and to cover the canoes with palm awnings4 ,the price of a canoe for the ,maraon is twenty-five varas of lienzo1 and the same for each ,indian4 ,unfortunately we had only fifty varas left2 but1 through the influence of the now good-natured alcalde1 we induced the ,indians to take the balance in coin4 ,after many delays1 we put our baggage into one canoe1 and ourselves into the other1 and pushed off into the rapid current of the ,napo4 ,we had three styles of valediction on leaving4 ,our ,indian quartet1 after several last drinks of chicha1 bade their friends farewell by clasping hands1 one kissing the joined hands1 and then the other4 ,sandoval muttered adios in reply to ours1 meaning1 no doubt1 good riddance1 while we shouted a hearty good-bye to ,edwards as he pushed his way up stream to continue his lonely but chosen ,indian life on the banks of the ,yusupino4 ,the ,napo at ,santa ,rosa runs at least five miles an hour1 and we were soon picking our way--now drifting1 now paddling--through a labyrinth of islands and snags4 ,the ,indians1 so accustomed to brutal violence from the hands of the whites1 had begged of us1 before our departure1 that we would not beat them4 ,but shortly after we left1 one of them1 who was literally filled with chicha1 dropped his paddle and tumbled into a heap at the bottom of the canoe1 dead drunk4 ,pratt1 our gigantic ,mississippi boatman1 whom we had engaged at ,quito as captain and cook down the river1 and who was an awful ,goliath in the eyes of the red-skins1 seized the fellow and gave him a terrible shaking1 the like of which was never seen or heard of in all ,napo4 ,at once the liquor left the muddled brain of the astonished culprit1 and1 taking his paddle1 he became from that hour the best of the crew4 ,this was the only case of discipline on the voyage4 ,always obsequious1 they obeyed us with fear and trembling4 ,none of them could speak ,spanish1 so we had provided ourselves with a vocabulary of ,quichua4 ,but some ,english words1 like the imperative paddle6 were more effective than the tongue of the ,incas4 ,indeed1 when we mixed up our ,quichua with a little ,anglo-,saxon1 they evidently thought the latter was a terrible anathema1 for they sprang to their places without delay4 ,in seven hours we arrived at ,suno1 a collection of half a dozen palm booths1 five feet high1 the miserable owners of which do a little fishing and gold-washing4 ,they gave us possession of their largest hut1 in which they had been roasting a sea-cow1 and the stench was intolerable4 ,nevertheless1 one of our number bravely threw down his blanket within1 and went to sleep2 two swung their hammocks between the trees1 and the rest slept in the canoe4 ,here1 for the first time since leaving ,guayaquil1 we were tormented by musquitoes4 ,bats were also quite numerous1 but none of them were blood-thirsty2 and we may add that nowhere in ,south ,america were we troubled by those diabolical imps of imaginative travelers1 the leaf-nosed species4 ,so far as our experience goes1 we can say1 with ,bates1 that the vampire1 so common on the ,amazon1 is the most harmless of all bats4 ,it has1 however1 a most hideous physiognomy4 ,a full-grown specimen will measure twenty-eight inches in expanse of wing4 ,bates found two species on the ,amazon--one black1 the other of a ruddy line1 and both fruit-eaters4 ,the nocturnal music of these forests is made by crickets and tree-toads4 ,the voice of the latter sounds like the cracking of wood4 ,occasionally frogs1 owls1 and goat-suckers croak1 hoot1 and wail4 ,between midnight and #c ,a4,m4 almost perfect silence reigns4 ,at early dawn the animal creation awakes with a scream4 ,pre-eminent are the discordant cries of monkeys and macaws4 ,as the sun rises higher1 one musician after another seeks the forest shade1 and the morning concert ends at noon4 ,in the heat of the day there is an all-pervading rustling sound1 caused by the fluttering of myriad insects and the gliding of lizards and snakes4 ,at sunset parrots and monkeys resume their chatter for a season1 and then give way to the noiseless flight of innumerable bats chasing the hawk-moth and beetle4 ,there is scarcely a sound in a tropical forest which is joyous and cheering4 ,the birds are usually silent2 those that have voices utter a plaintive song1 or hoarse1 shrill cry4 ,our door-yards are far more melodious on a ,may morning4 ,the most common birds on the ,napo are macaws1 parrots1 toucans1 and ciganas4 ,the parrots1 like the majority in ,south ,america1 are of the green type4 ,the toucan1 peculiar to the ,new ,world1 and distinguished by its enormous bill1 is a quarrelsome1 imperious bird4 ,it is clumsy in flight1 but nimble in leaping from limb to limb4 ,it hops on the ground like a robin1 and makes a shrill yelping--pia-po-o-co4 ,ecuadorians call it the predicador1 or preacher1 because it wags its head like a priest1 and seems to say1 ,god gave it you4 ,the feathers of the breast are of most brilliant yellow1 orange1 and rose colors1 and the robes of the royal dames of ,europe in the sixteenth century were trimmed with them4 ,the cigana or gypsy 7in ,peru called chansu7 resembles a pheasant4 ,the flesh has a musky odor1 and it is for this reason1 perhaps1 that they exist in such numbers throughout the country4 ,the ,indians never eat them4 ,in no country as in the ,amazonian ,valley is there such a variety of insects2 nowhere do we find species of larger size or greater beauty4 ,it is the richest locality for butterflies2 ,bates found twelve hundred species in ,brazil alone1 or three times as many as in all ,europe4 ,the splendid metallic-blue1 and the yellow and transparent-winged1 are very abundant on the ,napo2 some rise high in the air2 others1 living in societies1 look like fluttering clouds4 ,moths are comparatively rare4 ,the most conspicuous beetle on the river is a magnificent green species 7,chrysophora chrysochlora71 always found arboreal1 like the majority of tropical coleopters2 they look like emerald gems clinging to the branches4 ,there are two kinds of bees1 the black and yellow1 which the ,napos name respectively cushillo mishke 7monkey honey7 and sara mishke 7corn honey74 ,it is singular these ,indians have no term for bees1 but call them honey1 and distinguish them by their color4 ,the black species is said to make the most honey1 and the yellow the best4 ,the quadrupeds of the ,oriente are few and far between in the dry season4 ,not a sloth nor armadillo did we see4 ,but when the rains descend the wilderness is a menagerie of tigers and tapirs1 pumas and bears1 while a host of reptiles1 led by the gigantic boa1 creep forth from their hiding-places4 ,the most ferocious carnivores are found in the mountains1 and the most venomous serpents haunt the lowlands4 ,darwin says that we ought not to expect any closer similarity between the organic beings on the opposite sides of the ,andes than on the opposite shores of the ocean4 ,we will remark that we obtained a peccari1 a number of birds not accustomed to high flights1 and five reptilian species1 on the ,pacific slope1 identical with species found on the ,napo4 ,breakfasting on fried yucas1 roasted plantains1 fish1 and guayusa1 we set sail1 arriving at ,coca at #b ,p4,m4 ,this little village1 the last we shall see till we come within sight of the ,amazon1 is beautifully located on the right bank1 twenty-five feet above the river1 and opposite the confluence of the ,rio ,coca4 ,though founded twenty years ago1 it contains only five or six bamboo huts1 a government-house1 church1 alcalde's residence1 and a trapiche for the manufacture of aguardiente and sirup from the cane4#abe ,the alcalde was a worthless blanco1 who spent most of his time swinging in a hammock slung between the posts of his veranda1 and playing with a tame parrot when not drunk or asleep4 ,this spot is memorable in history4 ,pizarro having reached it from ,quito by way of ,baeza and the ,coca1 halted and built a raft or canoe 7,prescott says a brig71 in which ,orellana was sent down the river to reconnoitre1 but who never returned4 ,up to this point the ,napo has an easterly course2 but after receiving the ,coca1 it turns to the southeast4 ,we remained here two days to construct a more comfortable craft for our voyage to the ,amazon1 a distance of at least five hundred miles4 ,the canoe is the only means of navigation known to the ,indians4 ,but the idea of spending fifteen days cooped1 cribbed1 and cramped in a narrow canoe1 exposed to a tropical sun and furious rains1 was intolerable4 ,illustration3 ,trapiche4 ,footnote #abe3 ,the trapiche or sugar-mill of the ,andes is a rude affair4 ,the cane is pressed between cogged wooden cylinders worked by bullocks1 and the juice is received in troughs made of hollowed logs4 ,our ,santa ,rosa canoes were about thirty feet long4 ,these were placed about five feet apart and parallel1 and then firmly secured by bamboo joists4 ,over these we spread a flooring of split bamboo1 and planted four stout chonta sticks to support a palm-thatched roof4 ,a rudder 7a novel idea to our red-skinned companions71 and a box of sand in the stern of one of the boats for a fire-place1 completed our rig4 ,the alcalde1 with a hiccough1 declared we would be forever going down the river in such a huge craft1 and the ,indians smiled ominously4 ,but when our gallant ship left ,coca obediently to the helm1 and at the rate of six miles an hour when paddles and current worked together1 they shouted bueno6 ,our trunks and provision-cans were arranged along the two sides of the platform1 so that we had abundance of from for exercise by day and for sleeping under musquito-tents at night4 ,a little canoe1 which we bought of the alcalde1 floated alongside for a tender1 and was very serviceable in hunting1 gathering fuel1 etc4 ,in the forecastle--the bows of the large canoes which projected beyond our cabin--sat three ,indians to paddle4 ,the fourth1 who was the governor of ,santa ,rosa1 we honored with the post of steersman2 and he was always to be seen on the poop behind the kitchen1 standing bolt upright1 on the alert and on the lookout4 ,on approaching any human habitation1 the ,indians blew horns to indicate that they came as friends4 ,these horns must have come from ,brazil1 as there are no bovines on the ,napo4 ,whenever they enter an unknown lagune they blow their horns also to charm the yacu-mama1 or mother-of-waters1 as they call the imaginary serpent4 ,at different points down the river they deposited pots of chicha for use on their return4 ,the mass breeds worms so rapidly1 however1 as ,edwards informed us1 that after the lapse of a month or two it is a jumble of yuca scraps and writhing articulates4 ,but the owner of the heap coolly separates the animal from the vegetable1 adds a little water1 and drinks his chicha without ceremony4 ,during leisure hours the ,indians busied themselves plaiting palm leaves into ornaments for their arms and heads4 ,not a note did they whistle or sing4 ,yet they were always in good humor1 and during the whole voyage we did not see the slightest approach to a quarrel4 ,at no time did we have the least fear of treachery or violence4 ,the ,napos are not savages4 ,their goodness1 however1 as ,bates says of the ,cucma tribe1 consists more in the absence of active bad qualities than in the possession of good ones4 ,of an apathetic temperament and dull imagination1 we could not stir them into admiration or enthusiasm by any scientific wonder2 the utmost manifestation of surprise was a cluck with the tongue4#abf ,upon presenting the governor with a vest1 he immediately cut off the buttons1 and1 dividing the cloth into four parts1 shared it with his fellows4#abg ,when it rained they invariably took off their ponchos1 but in all our intercourse with these wild men we never noticed the slightest breach of modesty4 ,they strictly maintained a decent arrangement of such apparel as they possessed4 ,a canoe containing a young ,indian1 his bride1 and our governor's wife and babe1 accompanied us down to the ,maraon4 ,they were going after a load of salt for ,sandoval4 ,the girl was a graceful paddler1 and had some well-founded pretensions to beauty4 ,her coarse1 black hair was simply combed back1 not braided into plaits as commonly done by the ,andean women4 ,all1 both male and female1 painted their faces with achote to keep off the sand-flies4 ,illustration3 ,our ,craft on the ,napo4 ,footnote #abf3 ,bates says the ,mundurucus express surprise by making a clicking sound with their teeth1 and ,darwin observes that the ,fuegians have the habit of making a chuckling noise when pleased4 ,footnote #abg3 ,the like perfect equality exists among the ,fuegian tribes4 ,a piece of cloth given to one is torn into shreds and distributed1 and no one individual becomes richer than another4--,darwin4 ,pratt managed the helm 7the governor could not work the ,yankee notion7 and the kitchen4 ,at ,santa ,rosa we had added to our ,quito stock of provisions some manati-lard 7bottled up in a joint of a bamboo7 and sirup1 and at ,coca we took in three fowls1 a bag of rice1 and a bunch of bananas4 ,so we fared sumptuously every day4 ,we left ,coca on ,thanksgiving ,day1 ,november #bhth1 and to imitate our distant friends1 we sacrificed an extra meal--fricasseed chicken1 jerked beef1 boiled yucas1 bananas1 oranges1 lemonade1 and guayusa4 ,favored by a powerful current and the rhythmic paddling of our ,santa ,rosans1 we made this day sixty miles2 but our average daily run was fifty miles4 ,the winds 7doubtless the trades7 were almost unchangeably from the east2 but an occasional puff would come from the northwest1 when we relieved our paddlers by hoisting a blanket for a sail4 ,six o'clock was our usual hour of departure1 and ten or twelve hours our traveling time1 always tying up at a plaia or island1 of which there are hosts in the ,napo1 but never to the main land1 for fear of unfriendly ,indians and the still more unwelcome tiger4 ,our crew encamped at a respectful though hailing distance4 ,on the second day from ,coca we were caught in a squall1 and to save our roof we ran ashore4 ,nearly every afternoon we were treated to a shower1 accompanied by a strong wind1 but seldom by thunder and lightning1 though at ,coca we had a brilliant thunder-storm at night4 ,they always came after a uniform fashion and at a regular hour1 so that we learned when to expect them4 ,about noon the eastern horizon would become suddenly black1 and when this had spread to the zenith we heard the rush of a mighty wind sweeping through the forest1 and the crash of falling trees1 and then down fell the deluge4 ,the ,indians have a saying that the path of the sun is the path of the storm4 ,these storm-clouds moved rapidly1 for in half an hour all was quiet on the ,napo4 ,at ,quito1 two hundred miles west1 the usual afternoon shower occurs two hours later4 ,to-day we enjoyed our last glimpse of the ,andes4 ,far away across the great forest we had traversed we could see the beautiful cone of ,cotopaxi and the flat top of ,cayambi standing out in proud pre-eminence4 ,long will it be ere we forget this farewell view of the magnificent ,cordillera4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,sea-,cows and ,turtles' ,eggs4--,the ,forest4--,peccaries4--,indian ,tribes on the ,lower ,napo4--,anacondas and ,howling ,monkeys4--,insect ,pests4--,battle with ,ants4--,barometric ,anomaly4--,first ,view of the ,amazon1--,pebas4 ,the thirtieth of ,november was an exciting day on the monotonous ,napo4 ,we fell in with numerous sea-cows sporting in the middle of the stream4 ,they were greatly disturbed by the sight of our huge craft1 and1 lifting their ugly heads high out of the water1 gave a peculiar snort1 as if in defiance1 but always dived out of sight when fired upon4 ,the sea-cow is called vaca marina by the ,spaniards1 peixe boy by the ,brazilians1 and manati in the ,west ,indies4 ,it has no bovine feature except in its upper lip4 ,the head and skin remind one of a large seal4 ,in many respects it may be likened to a hippopotamus without tusks or legs4 ,it has a semicircular flat tail1 and behind the head are two oval fins1 beneath which are the breasts1 which yield a white milk4 ,the flesh resembles pork1 with a disagreeable1 fishy flavor4 ,to-day we anchored at several plaias to hunt turtles' eggs4 ,our ,indians were very expert in finding the nests4 ,guided approximately by the tracks of the tortugas1 as the turtles are called1 they thrust a stick into the sand1 and wherever it went down easily they immediately commenced digging with their hands1 and invariably struck eggs4 ,in four nests1 whose contents we counted1 there were one hundred and thirty-two1 one hundred and fourteen1 one hundred and twelve1 and ninety-seven2 but we have heard of one hundred and sixty eggs in a single nest4 ,the turtles lay in the night1 and in pits about two feet deep1 which they excavate with their broad1 webbed paws4 ,the eggs are about an inch and a half in diameter1 having a thin1 leathery shell1 a very oily yolk1 and a white which does not coagulate4 ,the ,indians ate them uncooked4 ,we used them chiefly in making corn griddles4 ,here1 as throughout its whole course1 the ,napo runs between two walls of evergreen verdure4 ,on either hand are low clay banks 7no rocks are visible71 and from these the forest rises to a uniform height of seventy or eighty feet4 ,it has a more cheerful aspect than the sombre1 silent wilderness of ,baeza4 ,old aristocrats of the woods are overrun by a gay democracy of creepers and climbers1 which interlace the entire forest1 and1 descending to take root again1 appear like the shrouds and stays of a line-of-battle ship4 ,monkeys gambol on this wild rigging1 and mingle their chatter with the screams of the parrot4 ,trees as lofty as our oaks are covered with flowers as beautiful as our lilies4 ,here are orchids of softest tints2#abh flowering ferns1 fifty feet high2 the graceful bamboo and wild banana2 while high over all countless species of palm wave their nodding plumes4 ,art could not arrange these beautiful forms so harmoniously as nature has done4 ,footnote #abh3 ,some orchid is in flower all the year round4 ,the finest species is the odontoglossum1 having long1 chocolate-colored petals1 margined with yellow4 ,such is their number and variety 7wrote ,humboldt7 that the entire life of a painter would be too short to delineate all the magnificent ,orchide which adorn the recesses of the deep valleys of the ,peruvian ,andes4 ,for many curious facts respecting the structure of these flowers1 see ,darwin's ,fertilization of ,orchids4 ,illustration3 ,hunting ,turtles' ,eggs ,the tropics1 moreover1 are strangers to the uniformity of association seen in temperate climes4 ,we have so many social plants that we speak of a forest of oaks1 and pines1 and birches2 but there variety is the law4 ,individuals of the same species are seldom seen growing together4 ,every tree is surrounded by strangers that seemingly prefer its room to its company2 and1 such is the struggle for possession of the soil1 it is difficult to tell to which stem the different leaves and flowers belong4 ,the peculiar charm of a tropical forest is increased by the mystery of its impenetrable thicket4 ,within that dense1 matted shrubbery1 and behind that phalanx of trees1 the imagination of the traveler sees all manner of four-footed beasts and creeping things4 ,tropical vegetation is of fresher verdure1 more luxuriant and succulent1 and adorned with larger and more shining leaves than the vegetation of the north4 ,the leaves are not shed periodically--a character common1 not only to the equator1 but also to the whole southern hemisphere4 ,yet there is a variety of tints1 though not autumnal4 ,the leaves put on their best attire while budding instead of falling--passing1 as they come to maturity1 through different shades of red1 brown1 and green4 ,the majority of tropical trees bear small flowers4 ,the most conspicuous trees are the palms1 to which the prize of beauty has been given by the concurrent voice of all ages4 ,the earliest civilization of mankind belonged to countries bordering on the region of palms4 ,south ,america1 the continent of mingled heat and moisture1 excels the rest of the world in the number and perfection of her palms4 ,they are mostly of the feathery and fan-like species2 the latter are inferior in rank to the former4 ,the peculiarly majestic character of the palm is given not only by their lofty stems1 but also in a very high degree by the form and arrangement of their leaves4 ,how diverse1 yet equally graceful1 are the aspiring branches of the jagua and the drooping foliage of the cocoa1 the shuttlecock-shaped crowns of the ubuss and the plumes of the jupati1 forty feet in length4 ,the inflorescence always springs from the top of the trunk1 and the male flowers are generally yellowish4 ,unlike the oak1 all species of which have similar fruit1 there is a vast difference in the fruits of the palm3 compare the triangular cocoa-nut1 the peach-like date1 and grape-like assai4 ,the silk-cotton tree is the rival of the palm in dignity2 it has a white bark and a lofty flat crown4 ,among the loveliest children of ,flora we must include the mimosa1 with its delicately pinnated foliage1 so endowed with sensibility that it seems to have stepped out of the bounds of vegetable life4 ,the bamboo1 the king of grasses1 forms a distinctive feature in the landscape of the ,napo1 frequently rising eighty feet in length1 though not in height1 for the fronds curve downward4 ,fancy the airy grace of our meadow grasses united with the lordly growth of the poplar1 and you have a faint idea of bamboo beauty4 ,the first day of winter 7how strangely that sounds under a vertical sun67 was ,sunday2 but it was folly to attempt to rest where punkies were as thick as atoms1 so we floated on4 ,it was only by keeping in mid-river and moving rapidly enough to create a breeze through our cabin1 that life was made tolerable4 ,a little after noon we were again obliged to tie up for a storm4 ,not a human being nor a habitation have we seen since leaving ,coca2 and to-day nothing is visible but the river1 with its islands1 and plains1 and the green palisades--the edges of the boundless forest4 ,not a hill over one hundred feet high are we destined to see till we reach ,obidos1 fifteen hundred miles eastward4 ,were it not for the wealth of vegetation--all new to trans-tropical eyes--and the concerts of monkeys and macaws1 oppressively lonely would be the sail down the ,napo between its uninhabited shores4 ,but we believe the day1 though distant1 will come when its banks will be busy with life4 ,toward evening three or four canoes pulled out from the shore and came alongside4 ,they were filled with the lowest class of ,indians we have seen in ,south ,america4 ,the women were nearly nude2 the man 7there was only one7 had on a sleeveless frock reaching to the knees1 made from the bark of a tree called llanchama4 ,all were destitute of eyebrows2 their hair was parted in the middle1 and their teeth and lips were dyed black4 ,they had rude pottery1 peccari meat1 and wooden lances to sell4 ,like all the ,napo ,indians1 they had a weakness for beads1 and they wore necklaces of tiger and monkey teeth4 ,they were stupid rather than brutal1 and probably belonged to a degraded tribe of the great ,zaparo family4 ,with ,darwin1 one's mind hurries back over past centuries1 and then asks1 could our progenitors have been men like these8--men whose very signs and expressions are less intelligible to us than those of the domesticated animals2 men who do not possess the instinct of those animals1 nor yet appear to boast of human reason1 or1 at least1 of arts consequent on that reason4 ,i do not believe it is possible to describe or paint the difference between savage and civilized man4 ,it is the difference between a wild and tame animal2 and part of the interest in beholding a savage is the same which would lead every one to desire to see the lion in his desert1 the tiger tearing his prey in the jungle1 or the rhinoceros wandering over the wild plains of ,africa4 ,on the morrow our falcon-eyed ,indians whispered cuche long before we saw any thing4#abi ,williams went ashore and came upon a herd of peccaries1 killing two4 ,the peccari is a pugnacious1 fearless animal4 ,it is not frightened by the noise of fire-arms1 and when wounded is a dangerous foe2 but captured when young1 it is easily tamed4 ,it has a higher back than the domestic hog1 and cleanlier habits2 an odoriferous gland on the loins1 and three-toed hind feet4 ,we preserved the skins for science and a ham for the table2 the rest we gave to our crew and fellow-voyagers1 who devoured every thing1 even the viscera4 ,they sat up late that night1 around their camp-fire1 cooking peccari meat3 part they parboiled in a pot1 and some they roasted1 skewered on sticks which slanted over the flames2 the rest they cured with smoke1 for lack of salt4 ,the meat1 though rank1 is palatable1 but not equal to macaw1 which we served up the next day4#acj ,footnote #abi3 ,in the ,quichua of ,quito the peccari is called saino4 ,footnote #acj3 ,the ,uaupes on the ,napo1 according to ,wallace1 will not eat peccari meat4 ,meat putrifies in this climate 7of the ,tapajos7 in less than twenty-four hours1 and salting is of no use unless the pieces are cut in thin slices and dried immediately in the sun4--,bates4 ,we had now passed the mouth of the ,aguarico1 leaving behind us the ,christian ,quitus and the peaceful ,zaparos4 ,henceforth the right bank of the ,napo is inhabited by the ,mazanes and ,iquitos2 while on the left are the wilder ,santa ,marias1 ,anguteros1 ,oritos1 and ,orejones4 ,the ,orejones1 or ,big ,ears1 enlarge those appendages to such an extent that they are said to lie down on one ear and cover themselves with the other4 ,this practice is now going out of fashion4 ,these ,indians received their name1 ,orejones1 or ,oregones1 from the ,spaniards1 on account of this singular custom of inserting disks of wood in the ears to enlarge them2 the like practice prevailed among the tribes on the ,columbia ,river1 ,oregon4 ,they trade in hammocks1 poisons1 and provisions4 ,the ,anguteros1 or ,putumayos1 have a bad reputation4 ,they are reported to have killed and robbed sarsaparilla traders coming up stream4 ,nevertheless1 we kept watch only one night during the voyage1 though we always anchored to an island1 and between ,coca and the ,amazon we did not see twenty-five men4 ,equally rare were the savage brutes--not a jaguar showed himself1 and only one anaconda4 ,the anaconda1 or water-boa 7,eunectes murinus#aca71 is larger and more formidable than the boa-constrictor which lives on the land4 ,it has a hideous appearance1 broad in the middle1 and tapering abruptly at both ends4 ,we did not learn from the natives that anacondas over twenty feet long had been seen on the ,napo1 but specimens twice that size are found on the ,amazon4 ,land boas do not often exceed fifteen feet in length4 ,footnote #aca3 ,the specific name was strangely given for its habit1 when young1 of darting upon mice4 ,anaconda is a ,ceylonese word4 ,illustration3 ,a ,howler4 ,gangs of the large howling monkeys often entertained us with their terrific1 unearthly yells1 which1 in the truthful language of ,bates1 increased tenfold the feeling of inhospitable wildness which the forest is calculated to inspire4 ,they are of a maroon color 7the males wear a long red beard71 and have under the jaw a bony gotre--an expansion of the os hyoides--by means of which they produce their loud1 rolling noise4 ,they set up an unusual chorus whenever they saw us1 scampering to the tops of the highest trees1 the dams carrying the young upon their backs4 ,they are the only monkeys which the natives have not been able to tame4 ,vast numbers of screaming parrots and macaws flew over our heads1 always going in pairs and at a great height4 ,groups of gypsy-birds were perched on the trees overhanging the river1 and black ducks1 cormorants1 and white cranes floated on the water or stalked along the plaias4 ,but one form of life superabounded4 ,from the rising of the sun to the going down thereof clouds of ubiquitous sand-flies filled our cabin1 save when the wind was high4 ,as soon as the sand-flies ceased1 myriads of musquitoes began their work of torture1 without much preparatory piping1 and kept it up all night4#acb ,these pests were occasionally relieved or assisted by piums--minute flies that alight unnoticed1 and squatting close to the skin1 suck their fill of blood1 leaving dark spots and a disagreeable irritation4 ,our hands were nearly black with their punctures4 ,we also made the acquaintance of the montca1 a large black fly whose horny lancets make a gash in the flesh1 painless but blood-letting4 ,all these insects are most abundant in the latter part of the rainy season1 when the ,maraon is almost uninhabitable4 ,the apostrophe of ,midshipman ,wilberforce was prompted by sufferings which we can fully appreciate3 ,ye greedy animals6 ,i am ashamed of you4 ,can not you once forego your dinner1 and feast your mind with the poetry of the landscape8 ,right welcome was the usual afternoon squall1 which sent these pests kiting over the stern4 ,footnote #acb3 ,sand-flies are called by the natives musquitoes1 and what we call musquitoes they call sancudos4 ,on ,wednesday we fell in with a petty sarsaparilla trader1 with two canoes1 bound for the ,maraon4 ,he was sick with fever4 ,sarsaparilla 7written salsaparrilha in ,brazil1 and meaning bramble vine7 is the root of a prickly1 climbing plant found throughout the whole ,amazonian forest1 but chiefly on dry1 rocky ground4 ,on the morning of the seventh day from ,coca we passed the mouth of the ,curaray1 the largest tributary of the ,napo4 ,it rises on the slopes of the ,llanganati mountains1 and is considered auriferous4 ,it is probably derived from curi1 gold4 ,seeing a hut on the banks1 we sent an ,indian to purchase provisions2 he returned with a few yucas and eggs4 ,the day following we were attacked from a new quarter4 ,stopping to escape a storm1 a party went ashore to cut down a tree of which we desired a section4 ,it fell with its top in the river1 just above our craft2 when lo6 to our consternation1 down came countless hosts of ants 7,ecitons74 ,myriads were1 of course1 swept down stream1 but myriads more crawled up the sides of our canoes1 and in one minute after the tree fell our whole establishment1 from hold to roof1 was swarming with ants4 ,we gave one look of despair at each other1 our provisions and collections1 and then commenced a war of extermination4 ,it was a battle for life4 ,the ants1 whose nest we had so suddenly immersed in the ,napo1 refused to quit their new lodgings4 ,as we were loosely dressed1 the tenacious little creatures hid themselves under our clothing1 and when plucked off would leave their heads and jaws sticking in the skin4 ,at last the deck was cleared by means of boots1 slippers1 and towels2 but1 had the ants persevered1 they might have taken possession of the boat4 ,to-day we saw a high bank 7called in ,quichua pucaurcu1 or red hill7 consisting of fine laminated clays of many colors--red1 orange1 yellow1 gray1 black1 and white4 ,this is the beginning of that vast deposit which covers the whole ,amazonian ,valley4 ,it rests upon a bed of lignite1 or bituminous shale1 and a coarse1 iron-cemented conglomerate4 ,the latter is not visible on the ,napo1 but crops out particularly at ,obidos and ,par4 ,the ,indians prepare their paints from these colored clays4 ,our ,santa ,rosans seemed to have little tact in fishing2 still their spears and our hooks gathered not a few representatives of ichthyic life in the ,napo4 ,the species most common belong to the genus ,pimelodus1 or catfish tribe4 ,below tho ,curaray the sand bars yielded turtles' eggs of a different kind from those found above1 the tracaj4 ,they were smaller and oval1 and buried only six or eight inches deep1 thirty in a nest4 ,december #i4--,passed early this morning the mouth of the ,mazan2 four huts at the junction4 ,to-day we noticed the anomaly first observed by ,herndon4 ,from ,papallacta to the ,curaray the rise of the mercury was regular1 but on the lower ,napo there were great fluctuations4 ,at one time both barometer and boiling apparatus1 with which we made daily and simultaneous observations1 unanimously declared that our canoes were gliding up stream1 though we were descending at the rate of five miles an hour4 ,the temperature is decidedly lower and the winds are stronger as we near the ,amazon4 ,december #aj4--,our last day on the ,napo4 ,in celebration of the event we killed a fine young doe as it was crossing the river4 ,it closely resembled the ,virginia deer4 ,at #i ,a4,m4 the ,indians shouted in their quiet way--,maraon6 ,it was as thrilling as ,thalatta to ,xenophon's soldiers4 ,we were not expecting to reach it till night1 being deceived by ,villavicencio's map1 which1 in common with all others1 locates the ,curaray and ,mazan too far to the north4 ,we halted for an hour at ,camindo1 a little fishing hamlet claimed by ,peru1 and then hastened to get our first sight of the ,amazon4 ,with emotions we can not express1 we gazed upon this ocean-stream4 ,the march of the great river in its silent grandeur is sublime4 ,in its untamed might it rolls through the wilderness with a stately1 solemn air1 showing its awful power in cutting away the banks1 tearing down trees1 and building up islands in a day4 ,down the river we can look till the sky and water meet as on the sea1 while the forest on either hand dwindles in the perspective to a long black line4 ,between these even walls of ever-living green the resistless current hurries out of ,peru1 sweeps past the imperial guns of ,tabatinga into ,brazil1 and plows its way visibly two hundred miles into the ,atlantic4 ,at a small island standing where the ,napo pays tribute to the monarch of rivers1 mingling its waters with the ,huallaga and ,ucayali1 which have already come down from the ,peruvian ,andes1 we bade adieu to our captain and cook1 who1 in the little canoe1 paddled his way westward to seek his fortune in ,iquitus4 ,at this point the ,maraon 7for so the natives call the ,upper ,amazon7 does not appear very much broader than the ,napo2 but its depth is far greater1 and there are few sand-bars4#acc ,the water is always of a turbid yellow2 while the ,napo1 though muddy during our voyage1 is usually clear4 ,the forest1 moreover1 on the banks of the ,maraon1 is not so striking as on the tributary4 ,the palms are not so numerous1 and the uniform height of the trees gives a monotonous1 sea-like horizon4 ,footnote #acc3 ,herndon makes the mouth of the ,napo #aej yards broad1 and the soundings six or seven fathoms4 ,this is not a fair representation2 for the ,napo1 like all the other tributaries1 empties its waters by several mouths4 ,at ,camindo1 five miles above the confluence1 the ,napo is certainly a mile wide4 ,we arrived at ,pebas ,december #ab1 ten hours after leaving the mouth of the ,napo1 and a month and a half from ,quito4 ,the first individual we met addressed us in good ,english1 and proved to be ,mr4 ,hauxwell of birds and insects1 who has resided thirty years on the ,amazon4 ,his house1 the largest and best in town1 though but a roofed stockade1 was generously placed at our disposal1 and the fatted calf--an immense turtle--was immediately killed4 ,to us1 after the transit of the ,andes and the dangers and hardships of the wilderness and the river1 it seemed as if we had reached the end of our journey1 though we were over two thousand miles from the ,atlantic4 ,pebas is situated on a high clay bluff beside the ,ambiyacu1 a mile above its entrance into the ,maraon4 ,excepting ,mr4 ,hauxwell1 the ,peruvian governor1 and two or three other whites1 the inhabitants are ,indians of the ,orejones and ,yagua tribes4 ,the exportations are hammocks1 sarsaparilla1 palo de cruz1 and urar4 ,palo de cruz is the very hard1 dark-colored wood of a small leguminous tree bearing large pink flowers4 ,urar is the poison used by all the ,amazonian ,indians2 it is made by the ,ticunas on the ,putumayo1 by boiling to a jelly the juices of certain roots and herbs1 chiefly of the ,strychnos toxifera1 though it does not contain any trace of strychnine4 ,tipped with urar1 the needle-like arrow used in blow-guns will kill an ox in twenty minutes and a monkey in ten4 ,we have reason to congratulate ourselves 7wrote the facetious ,sidney ,smith7 that our method of terminating disputes is by sword and pistol1 and not by these medicated pins4 ,but the poison appears to be harmless to man and other salt-eating animals1 salt being an antidote4#acd ,we were not troubled with sand-flies after leaving the plaias of the ,napo1 but the musquitoes at ,pebas were supernumerary4 ,perhaps1 however1 it was a special gathering on our account1 for the natives have a notion that just before the arrival of a foreigner the musquitoes come in great numbers4 ,footnote #acd3 ,urar is mentioned by ,raleigh4 ,humboldt was the first to take any considerable quantity to ,europe4 ,the experiments of ,virchau and ,mnster make it probable that it does not belong to the class of tetanic poisons1 but that its particular effect is to take away the power of voluntary muscular movement1 while the involuntary functions of the heart and intestines still continue4 ,see ,ann4 de ,chim4 et de ,phys41 t4 xxxix41 #ahbh1 p4 #bd2 and ,schmberg's ,reisen in ,britisch ,guiana1 th4 i41 s4 #dda4 ,the frightful poison1 tieut of ,india1 is prepared from a ,java species of strychnos4 ,many of the ,indians are disfigured by dark blotches on the skin1 the effect of a cutaneous disease very prevalent in ,central ,amazonia4 ,here we first noticed the singular habit among the children of eating clay4 ,this habit is not confined to the ,otomacs on the ,oronoco1 nor to ,indians altogether2 for negroes and whites have the same propensity--,mr4 ,hauxwell found it impossible to restrain his own children4 ,bates ascribes the morbid craving to the meagre diet4 ,this may be true to some extent1 but it is certainly strange that the extraordinary desire to swallow earth 7chiefly unctuous clays7 is found only in the tropics1 where vegetation is so rank and fruit so abundant4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,down the ,amazon4--,steam on the ,great ,river4--,loreto4--,san ,antonio4--,tabatinga4--,brazilian ,steamers4--,scenery on the ,amazon4--,tocantns4--,fonte ,boa4--,ega4--,rio ,negro4--,manos4 ,we left ,pebas for ,tabatinga in the ,peruvian steamer ,morona1 ,captain ,raygado4 ,going up to ,jerusalem by railroad1 or ascending the ,nile by a screw whisking the sacred waters1 is not so startling as the sight of a steamer in the heart of ,south ,america4 ,there is such a contrast between the primeval wildness of the country and the people and this triumph of civilized life2 and one looks forward to the dazzling future of this great valley1 when the ships of all nations will crowd the network of rivers for the gold and perfumes1 the gems and woods of this western ,ophir4 ,the natives call the steamer the devil's boat1 or big canoe2 but they manifest little curiosity4 ,our ,napo ,indians were evidently afraid of it1 and stood afar off4 ,the first steamers that broke the deep solitude of the ,maraon were the ,huallaga and ,tirado1 brought out in #ahec by ,dr4 ,whittemore1 for ,peru4 ,they were built in ,new ,york1 of ,georgia pine1 costing ,peru #ge1jjj1 and reflected no credit on the ,united ,states2 they lie rotting near ,nauta4 ,peru has now two iron steamers of ,london make--the ,morona and ,pastassa--besides two smaller craft for exploring the tributaries4 ,these steamers are for government service1 but three more are building in ,england with passenger accommodations4 ,the ,morona has a tonnage of five hundred1 and an engine of one hundred and fifty horse-power4 ,the engineers are ,english1 and the cook is a ,chinaman4 ,she makes monthly trips between ,yurimaguas1 on the ,huallaga ,river1 and ,tabatinga1 on the ,brazilian frontier4 ,her rate down stream is eighteen miles an hour1 and from eleven to twelve against the current4 ,these steamers do not pay expenses at present2 but they preserve the authority of ,peru on the ,maraon1 and supply with material the government works at ,iquitos4 ,they also do a little commerce1 taking down sarsaparilla and ,moyabamba hats1 and bringing up ,english dry-goods4 ,there were not half a dozen passengers on board4 ,the only towns of any consequence west of ,pebas are ,iquitos1 ,nauta1 and ,yurimaguas4 ,peru claims them--in fact1 all the villages on the ,maraon4 ,iquitos is the most thriving town on the ,upper ,amazon4 ,it is situated on an elevated plain on the left bank of the river1 sixty miles above the mouth of the ,napo4 ,in ,herndon's time it was a fishing village of #bbg inhabitants2 it now contains #bjjj4 ,here are the government iron-works1 carried on by ,english mechanics4 ,in #ahfg there were six engineers1 two iron-molders1 two brass-molders1 two coppersmiths1 three blacksmiths1 three pattern-makers1 two boiler-makers1 five shipwrights1 three sawyers1 besides bricklayers1 brick-makers1 carpenters1 coopers1 etc42 in all forty-two4 ,all the coal for the furnaces is brought from ,england--the lignite on the banks of the ,maraon is unfit for the purpose4 ,a floating dock for vessels of a thousand tons has just been built4 ,nauta lies on the north bank of the ,maraon1 opposite the entrance of the ,ucayali4 ,its inhabitants1 about #ajjj1 trade in fish1 sarsaparilla1 and wax from ,ucayali4 ,yurimaguas is the port of ,moyabamba1 a city of #aj1jjj souls1 six days' travel southwest4 ,this vast eastern slope1 lying on the branches of the ,maraon1 is called the ,montaa of ,peru4 ,it is a region of inexhaustible fertility1 and would yield ample returns to energy and capital4 ,the villages are open to foreign commerce1 free of duty2 but at present the voice of civilized man is seldom heard1 save on the main fluvial highway between ,moyabamba and the ,brazilian frontier4 ,the ,portuguese are the most adventurous traders4 ,the value of imports to ,peru by the ,amazonian steamers during #ahfg was #cbd1ecc2 of exports1 #bfg1gdh4 ,in two hours and a half we arrive at ,maucallacta1 or ,old ,town1 an ,indian village on the right bank of the river4 ,here our passports were visd by the ,peruvian governor1 and the steamer wooded up4 ,one of the hands on the ,morona was ,manuel ,medina1 a mameluco1 who was employed by ,bates and ,agassiz in their explorations4 ,we left at noon of the following day1 and anchored for the night off ,caballococha1 for the ,peruvian steamers run only in the daytime4 ,caballococha1 or ,horse-lake1 is a ,ticuna town1 situated on a level tract of light loam1 closely surrounded by the dense forest1 and beside a cao of clear water leading to a pretty lake4 ,ecuador claims this town1 and likewise all the settlements on the ,maraon2 but her learned geographer1 ,villavicencio1 with characteristic ignorance of the country1 has located it on the north bank of the river6 ,we passed in the afternoon the little tug ,napo1 having on board ,admiral ,tucker1 the rebel1 who1 with some associates1 is exploring the tributaries of the ,upper ,amazon for the ,peruvian government4 ,they had just returned from a voyage of two hundred and fifty miles up the ,javar4 ,one of the party had a tame tiger-cat in his arms4 ,we arrived at ,loreto early the next morning4 ,this village of twenty houses and a church is prettily situated on the left bank1 with a green slope in front4 ,it is the most easterly town of ,peru on the ,amazon4 ,here resides ,mr4 ,wilkens1 the ,brazilian consul1 of ,german birth1 but ,north ,american education4 ,the inhabitants are ,peruvians1 ,portuguese1 ,negroes1 and ,ticuna ,indians4 ,the musquitoes hold high carnival at this place4 ,in two hours we were at ,san ,antonio1 a military post on the ,peruvian frontier1 commanded by a ,french engineer1 ,manuel ,charon1 who also studied in the ,united ,states4 ,one large building1 and a flag-staff on a high bluff of red clay1 were all that was visible of ,san ,antonio2 but the ,morona brought down a gang of ,indians 7impressed1 no doubt7 to build a fort for twenty guns4 ,the site is in dispute1 a ,brazilian claiming it as private property4 ,the white barracks of ,tabatinga1 the first fortress in ,brazil1 are in plain sight1 the voyage consuming but twenty minutes4 ,between ,san ,antonio and ,tabatinga is a ravine1 on either side of which is a white pole1 marking the limits of the republic and the empire4 ,tabatinga has long been a military post1 but1 excepting the government buildings1 there are not a dozen houses4 ,numerous ,indians1 however1 of the ,ticuna tribe1 dwell in the neighboring forest4 ,the commandante was ,o ,illustrissimo ,seor ,tenente ,aristides ,juste ,mavignier1 a tall1 thin1 stooping officer1 dressed in brown linen4 ,he received us with great civility1 and tendered a house and servant during our stay in port4 ,we preferred1 however1 to accept the hospitalities of the ,morona till the arrival of the ,brazilian steamer4 ,seor ,mavignier was commandante of ,manos when visited by ,agassiz1 and presented the ,professor with a hundred varieties of wood4 ,with the like courtesy1 he gave us a collection of reptiles1 all of them rare1 and many of them new species4 ,he showed us also a live raposa1 or wild dog1 peculiar to the ,amazon1 but seldom seen4 ,tabatinga stands on an eminence of yellow clay1 and is defended by twelve guns4 ,the river in front is quite narrow1 only about half a mile wide4 ,here our passports1 which had been signed at ,maucallacta and ,loreto1 were indorsed by the commandante4 ,they were afterward examined at ,ega1 ,manos1 and ,par4 ,the mean temperature of ,tabatinga we found to be #hb4ace ,some rubber and salt fish are exported1 but nothing of consequence is cultivated4 ,grapes1 the people say1 grow well1 but are destroyed by the ants4 ,the only fruit-trees we noticed were the mama 7in ,spanish1 papaya71 arac1 and abo4 ,the papaw-tree bears male and female flowers on different trees1 and hence receives the name of papaya or mama1 according to one's view of the pre-eminence of the sex4 ,the juice of this tree is used by the ladies of the ,west ,indies as a cosmetic1 and by the butchers to render the toughest meat tender4 ,the fruit is melon-shaped1 and of an orange-yellow color4 ,vauquelin discovered in it fibrine1 till lately supposed to be confined to the animal kingdom4 ,footnote #ace3 ,according to ,lieutenant ,azevedo1 the latitude of ,tabatinga is #d #ad' #cj2 longitude1 #gj #b' #bd2 magnetic variation1 #f #ce' #aj ,n4,e4 ,the ,peruvian steamers connect at ,tabatinga with the ,brazilian line4 ,there are eight imperial steamers on the ,amazon3 the ,icamiaba1 running between ,tabatinga and ,manos2 the ,tapajos and ,belem1 plying between ,manos and ,par2 the ,inca and ,manos1 between ,obidos and ,par2 besides two steamers on the ,tocantns1 one between ,par and ,chares1 and projected lines for the ,negro1 ,tapajos1 and ,madeira4 ,the captains get a small salary1 but the perquisites are large1 as they have a percentage on the freight4 ,one captain pocketed in one year #ijjj4 ,we embarked1 ,december #ab1 on the ,icamiaba1 which promptly arrived at ,tabatinga4 ,the commander1 formerly a lieutenant in the ,imperial ,navy1 and for twelve years a popular officer on the ,upper ,amazon1 was a polished gentleman1 but rigid disciplinarian4 ,as an example of ,brazilian etiquette1 we give his full address from one of our letters of introduction3 ,ilmo4 ,sr4 ,capn4 de ,fragata ,nuno ,alvez ,pereira de ,mello ,cardozo1 ,digno ,commandante de ,vapor ,icamiaba4 ,the ,icamiaba was an iron boat of four hundred and fifty tons1 with two engines of fifty horse-power each4 ,the engineer was an ,austrian1 yet the captain gave his orders in ,english1 though neither could speak the language4 ,the saloon1 with berths for twenty-five passengers1 was above deck1 and open at both ends for ventilation4 ,the passengers1 however1 usually swung their hammocks on the upper deck1 which was covered by an awning4 ,this was a delightfully breezy and commanding position2 and though every part of the steamer was in perfect order1 this was scrupulously neat4 ,here the table was spread with every tropical luxury1 and attentively served by young men in spotless attire4 ,happy the traveler who sits at the table of ,commandante ,cardozo4 ,the refreshment hours were3 ,coffee as soon as the passengers turned out of their hammocks1 and sometimes before2 breakfast at ten1 dinner at five1 and tea at eight4 ,live bullocks1 fowls1 and turtles were kept on board1 so that of fresh meat1 particularly beef 7the first we had tasted since leaving ,quito71 there was no lack4 ,at breakfast we counted nine different courses of meat4 ,the ,peruvian steamers are limited to turtle and salt fish4 ,rice and farina are extensively used in ,brazil1 but we saw very little tapioca4 ,farina is the flour of the country1 and is eaten in hard1 dry grains2 it will not keep in any other form4 ,it can not be very nutritious1 as it contains little gluten4 ,all bread and butter are imported from the ,united ,states and ,england4 ,the captains of ,brazilian steamers are their own stewards2 and in the midst of other business in port1 they stop to negotiate for a chicken1 or a dozen eggs1 with an ,indian or ,negro4 ,the ,icamiaba left ,tabatinga with only three first-class passengers1 besides our own party4 ,on no ,amazon steamer did we meet with a lady passenger4 ,madame ,godin1 who came down the river from the ,andes1 and ,mrs4 ,agassiz1 who ascended to ,tabatinga1 were among the few ladies who have seen these upper waters4 ,but how differently they traveled6 one on a raft1 the other on the beautiful ,icamiaba4 ,between ,tabatinga and ,teff1 a distance of five hundred miles1 is perhaps the most uncivilized part of the main river4 ,ascending1 we find improvements multiply as we near the mountains of ,peru2 descending1 we see the march of civilization in the budding cities and expanding commerce culminating at ,grand ,par4 ,the scenery from the deck of an ,amazonian steamer1 if described1 appears monotonous4 ,a vast volume of smooth1 yellow water1 floating trees and beds of aquatic grass1 low1 linear-shaped1 wooded islets1 a dark1 even forest--the shores of a boundless sea of verdure1 and a cloudless sky occasionally obscured by flocks of parrots3 these are the general features4 ,no busy towns are seen along the banks of the ,middle ,amazon2 only here and there a palm hut or semi-,indian village half buried in the wilderness4 ,we agree with ,darwin 7speaking of the ,plata71 that a wide expanse of muddy water has neither grandeur nor beauty4 ,the real grandeur1 however1 of a great river like this is derived from reflecting upon its prospective commercial importance and its immense drainage4 ,a lover of nature1 moreover1 can never tire of gazing at the picturesque grouping and variety of trees1 with their mantles of creeping plants2 while a little imagination can see in the alligators1 ganoid fishes1 sea-cows1 and tall gray herons1 the ichthyosaurus1 holoptychius1 dinotherium1 and brontozoum of ancient days4 ,here and there the river is bordered with low alluvial deposits covered with feathery-topped arrow-grass and amphibious vegetation2 but generally the banks are about ten feet high and magnificently wooded2 they are abrupt1 and land-slides are frequent4 ,a few minutes after leaving ,tabatinga we passed the mouth of the ,javar1 which forms the natural boundary between ,peru and ,brazil4 ,henceforth the river loses the name of ,maraon1 and is called ,solimoens1 or1 more commonly1 simply ,amazon4 ,we were ten hours in reaching ,san ,paulo1 a wretched ,ticuna village of five hundred souls1 built on a grassy table-land nearly one hundred feet high4 ,steps have been cut in the slippery clay bluff to facilitate the ascent4 ,swamps lie back of the town1 rendering it unhealthy4 ,on damp nights 7says the ,naturalist on the ,amazon7 the chorus of frogs and toads which swarm in weedy back-yards creates such a bewildering uproar that it is impossible to carry on a conversation in doors except by shouting4 ,in ten hours more we had passed the ,putumayo and entered the ,tunantns1 a sluggish1 dark-colored tributary emptying into the ,amazon about two hundred miles below the ,javar4#acf ,on the bank of white earth1 which strongly contrasts with the tinted stream1 is a dilapidated hamlet of twenty-five hovels1 built of bamboo plastered with mud and whitewashed4 ,we saw but one two-storied house2 and all have ground-floors and double-thatched roofs4 ,the inhabitants are semi-civilized ,shumna and ,pass ,indians and half-breeds2 but in the gloomy forest which hugs the town live the wild ,caishnas4 ,the atmosphere is close and steaming1 but not hot1 the mercury at noon standing at #hc4 ,the place is alive with insects and birds4 ,the nights on the ,amazon were invariably cool2 on the ,lower ,amazon1 cold1 so that we required a heavy blanket4 ,footnote #acf3 ,herndon says 7p4 #bda71 the ,tunantns is about fifty yards broad1 and seems deep with a considerable current4 ,illustration3 ,kitchen on the ,amazon4 ,taking on board wood1 beeves1 turtles1 salt fish1 and water-melons1 we left at half past #b ,p4,m4 ,the ,brazilian steamers run all night1 and with no slackening of speed4 ,at one o'clock we were awakened by a cry from the watch1 ,stop her6 ,and immediately after there was a crash2 but it was only the breaking of crockery caused by the sudden stoppage4 ,the night was fearfully dark1 and for aught we knew the steamer was running headlong into the forest4 ,fortunately there was no collision1 and in a few minutes we were again on our way1 arriving at ,fonte ,boa at #d ,a4,m4 ,this little village stands in a palm grove1 on a high bank of ochre-colored sandy clay1 beside a slue of sluggish black water1 eight miles from the ,amazon4#acg ,the inhabitants1 about three hundred1 are ignorant1 lazy mamelucos4 ,they dress like the majority of the semi-civilized people on the ,amazon3 the men content with shirt and pantaloons1 the women wearing cotton or gauze chemises and calico petticoats4 ,fonte ,boa is a museum for the naturalist1 but the headquarters of musquitoes1 small but persistent4 ,taking in a large quantity of turtle-oil1 the ,icamiaba turned down the cao1 but almost immediately ran aground1 and we were two hours getting off4 ,these yearly shifting shoals in the ,amazon can not be laid down in charts1 and the most experienced pilots often run foul of them4 ,in twelve hours we entered the ,teff1 a tributary from the ,bolivian mountains4 ,just before reaching the ,great ,river it expands into a beautiful lake1 with a white1 sandy beach4 ,on a grassy slope1 stretching out into the lake1 with a harbor on each side of it1 lies the city of ,ega4 ,a hundred palm-thatched cottages of mud and tiled frame houses1 each with an inclosed orchard of orange1 lemon1 banana1 and guava trees1 surround a rude church1 marked by a huge wooden crucifix on the green before it1 instead of a steeple4 ,cacao1 assa1 and pupunha palms rise above the town1 adding greatly to its beauty2 while back of all1 on the summit of the green slope1 begins the picturesque forest1 pathless1 save here and there a faint hunter's track leading to the untrodden interior4 ,the sheep and cattle grazing on the lawn1 a rare sight in ,alto ,amazonas1 gives a peaceful and inviting aspect to the scene4 ,the inhabitants1 numbering about twelve hundred1 are made up of pure ,indians1 half-castes1 negroes1 mulattoes1 and whites4 ,ega 7also called ,teff7 is the largest and most thriving town between ,manos and ,iquitos1 a distance of twelve hundred miles4 ,it is also one of the oldest settlements on the river1 having been founded during the ,english revolution1 or nearly two centuries ago4 ,tupi is the common idiom4 ,the productions of the country are cacao1 sarsaparilla1 ,brazil nuts1 bast for caulking vessels1 copaiba balsam1 ,india-rubber1 salt fish1 turtle-oil1 manati1 grass hammocks1 and tiles4 ,bates calculates the value of the annual exports at nearly forty thousand dollars4 ,the ,icamiaba calls here twice a month2 besides which there are small schooners which occupy about five months in the round trip between ,ega and ,par4 ,the place is healthy 7writes the charming ,naturalist on the ,amazon71 and almost free from insect pests2 perpetual verdure surrounds it2 the soil is of marvelous fertility1 even for ,brazil2 the endless rivers and labyrinths of channels teem with fish and turtle2 a fleet of steamers might anchor at any season of the year in the lake1 which has uninterrupted water communication straight to the ,atlantic4 ,what a future is in store for the sleepy little tropical village6 ,here ,bates pursued butterflies for four years and a half1 and ,agassiz fished for six months4 ,footnote #acg3 ,smyth says the town gets its name from the clearness of the water2 but ,herndon found it muddy1 and1 to our eyes1 it was dark as the ,negro4 ,illustration3 ,natives on the ,middle ,amazon4 ,ega is the half-way point across the continent1 but its exact altitude above the sea is unknown4 ,herndon's boiling apparatus gave two thousand feet1 and1 what is worse1 the lieutenant believed it4 ,our barometer made it one hundred feet2 but as our instrument1 though perfect in itself1 behaved very strangely on the ,middle ,amazon1 we do not rely on the calculation4 ,the true height is not far from one hundred and twenty-five feet1 or one fifth the elevation of the middle point in the ,north ,american continent4#ach ,taking on board salt fish1 turtle-oil1 and tiles1 we left ,ega two hours after midnight1 reaching ,coary at noon4 ,the ,amazon began to look more like a lake than a river1 having a width of four or five miles4 ,floating gulls and rolling porpoises remind one of the sea4 ,coary is a huddle of fifteen houses1 six of them plastered without1 whitewashed1 and tiled4 ,it is situated on a lake of the same name--the expanded outlet of a small river whose waters are dark brown1 and whose banks are low and covered with bushes4 ,here we took in turtles and turtle-oil1 ,brazil nuts and cocoa-nuts1 rubber1 salt fish1 and wood2 and1 six hours after leaving1 more fish and rubber were received at ,cudaj4 ,cudaj is a lonely spot on the edge of an extensive system of back-waters and lakes1 running through a dense unexplored forest inhabited by ,mra savages4 ,footnote #ach3 ,for a discussion of the barometric perturbations on the ,amazon1 see ,american ,journal of ,science for ,sept41 #ahfh4 ,at three in the afternoon of ,christmas1 seventy-four hours' running time from ,tabatinga1 we entered the ,rio ,negro4 ,strong is the contrast between its black-dyed waters and the yellow ,amazon4 ,the line separating the two rivers is sharply drawn1 the waters meeting1 not mingling4 ,circular patches of the dark waters of the ,negro are seen floating like oil amid the turbid waters of the ,amazon4 ,the sluggish tributary seems to be dammed up by the impetuous monarch4 ,the banks of the latter are low1 ragged1 perpendicular beds of clay1 covered with a bright green foliage2 the ,negro is fringed with sandy beaches1 with hills in the background clothed with a sombre1 monotonous forest containing few palms or leguminous trees4 ,musquitoes1 piums1 and montucas never trouble the traveler on the inky stream4 ,when seen in a tumbler1 the water of the ,negro is clear1 but of a light-red color2 due1 undoubtedly1 to vegetable matter4 ,the visible mouth of the river at this season of the year 7,december7 is three miles wide1 but from main-land to main-land it can not be less than twenty4 ,illustration3 ,a ,siesta4 ,in forty minutes after leaving the ,amazon we arrived at ,manos4 ,this important city lies on the left bank of the ,negro1 ten miles from its mouth and twenty feet above high-water level4 ,the site is very uneven1 and consists of ferruginous sandstone4 ,there was originally a fort here1 erected by the ,portuguese to protect their slave-hunting expeditions among the ,indians on the river--hence the ancient name of ,barra4 ,on the old map of ,father ,fritz 7#agjg7 the spot is named ,taromas4 ,since #aheb it has been called ,manos1 after the most warlike tribe4 ,some of the houses are two-storied1 but the majority are low adobe structures1 white and yellow washed1 floored and roofed with tiles1 and having green doors and shutters4 ,every room is furnished with hooks for hanging hammocks4 ,we did not see a bed between ,quito and ,new ,york except on the steamers4 ,the population1 numbering two thousand1#aci is a mongrel set--,brazilians1 ,portuguese1 ,italians1 ,jews1 ,negroes1 and ,indians1 with divers crosses between them4 ,laziness is the prominent characteristic4 ,a gentleman offered an ,indian passing his door twenty-five cents if he would bring him a pitcher of water from the river1 only a few rods distant4 ,he declined4 ,but ,i will give you fifty cents4 ,whereupon the half-clothed1 penniless aboriginal replied3 ,i will give you a dollar to bring me some4#adj ,while every inch of the soil is of exuberant fertility1 there is always a scarcity of food4 ,it is the dearest spot on the ,amazon4 ,most of the essentials and all of the luxuries come from ,liverpool1 ,lisbon1 and ,new ,york4 ,agriculture is at a discount on the ,amazon4 ,brazilians will not work2 ,european immigrants are traders2 nothing can be done with ,indians2 and negroes are few in number1 the slave-trade being abolished1 emancipation begun1 and the ,paraguayan war not ended4 ,a laboring class will ever be a desideratum in this tropical country4 ,with a healthy climate1#ada and a situation at the juncture of two great navigable rivers1 ,manos is destined to become the ,st4 ,louis of ,south ,america4 ,in commercial advantages it is hardly to be surpassed by any other city in the world1 having water communication with two thirds of the continent1 and also with the ,atlantic4 ,it is now the principal station for the ,brazilian line of steamers4 ,here all goods for a higher or lower point are reshipped4 ,the chief articles of export are coffee 7of superior quality71 sarsaparilla1 ,brazil nuts1 piassaba1 and fish4 ,the ,negro at this point is really five or six miles wide1 but the opposite shore is masked by low islands1 so that it appears to be but a mile and a half4 ,footnote #aci3 ,official returns for #ahdh give #cfad2 ,bates 7#ahej7 reckons #cjjj4 ,footnote #adj3 ,darwin met a similar specimen in ,banda ,oriental3 ,i asked two men why they did not work4 ,one gravely said the days were too long2 the other that he was too poor4 ,footnote #ada3 ,it is1 however1 one of the warmest spots on the river4 ,the average temperature1 according to ,azevedo and ,pinto1 is only #gi4g2 but the highest point readied on the ,amazon in #ahfb 7#hg4c7 was at ,manos1 and the extraordinary height of #ie has been noted there4 ,the country around ,manos is quite romantic for the ,amazonian ,valley4 ,the land is undulating and furrowed by ravines1 and the vegetation covering it is marvelously rich and diversified4 ,in the forest1 two miles from the city1 there is a natural curiosity celebrated by all travelers from ,spix and ,martius down4 ,a rivulet coming out of the wilderness falls over a ledge of red sandstone ten feet high and fifty feet broad1 forming a beautiful cascade4 ,the water is cool1 and of a deep orange color4 ,the foundation of a fine stone cathedral was laid in ,manos fourteen years ago1 but this generation is not likely to witness the dedication4 ,life in this ,amazonian city is dull enough3 commerce is not brisk1 and society is stiff2 balls are about the only amusements4 ,on ,sunday 7the holiday7 every body who can afford it comes out in ,paris fashions4 ,there are carts1 hut no coaches4 ,we called upon the ,president at his ,palace--an odd term for a two-storied1 whitewashed edifice4 ,his excellency received us with less formality and more cordiality than we expected to find in the solemn officials of the empire4 ,the first glance at the reception-room1 with the four chairs for visitors set in two lines at right angles to the chair of state1 promised cold etiquette2 but he addressed us with considerable familiarity and evident good-will4 ,we found1 however1 that his authority was quite limited1 for a written order which he gave us for a subordinate did not receive the slightest consideration4 ,at the house of a ,jew named ,levy we met a party of ,southerners1 ,captains ,mallory1 ,jones1 ,sandedge1 and ,winn1 commanded by ,dr4 ,dowsing1 who1 since the late onpleasantness1 as ,nasby calls it1 have determined to settle in this country4 ,the government grants them twenty square leagues of land on any tributary1 on condition that they will colonize it4 ,they were about to start for the ,rio ,branco on an exploring tour4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,down the ,amazon4--,serpa4--,villa ,nova4--,obidos4--,santarem4--,a ,colony of ,southerners4--,monte ,algre4--,porto do ,moz4--,leaving the ,amazon4--,breves4--,par ,river4--,the ,city of ,par4--,legislation and ,currency4--,religion and ,education4--,nonpareil ,climate4 ,at #aj ,p4,m4 we left ,manos in the ,tapajos1 an iron steamer of seven hundred tons4 ,we missed the snow-white cleanliness and rigid regularity of the ,icamiaba1 and ,captain ,jos ,antunes ,rodrigues de ,oliveira ,catramby was quite a contrast to ,lieutenant ,nuno4 ,there were only five first-class passengers besides ourselves 7and four of these were dead-heads71 though there were accommodations for sixty-four4 ,between ,manos and ,par1 a distance of one thousand miles1 there were fourteen additions4 ,passing the mouth of the ,madeira1 the largest tributary to the ,amazon1 we anchored thirty miles below at ,serpa1 after nine hours' sailing4 ,serpa is a village of ninety houses1 built on a high bank of variegated clay1 whence its ,indian name1 ,ita-coatiara1 or painted rock4 ,it was the most animated place we had seen on the river4 ,the town is irregularly laid out and overrun with weeds1 but there is a busy tile factory1 and the port was full of canoes1 montarias1 and cubertas4 ,the ,african element in the population began to show itself prominently here1 and increased in importance as we neared ,par4 ,the ,negroes are very ebony1 and are employed as stevedores4 ,the ,indians are well-featured1 and wear a long gown of bark-cloth reaching to the knees4 ,taking on board rubber and salt fish1 the ,tapajos steamed down stream1 passing the perpendicular pink-clay cliffs of ,cararauc1 arriving in ten hours at ,villa ,nova1#adb one hundred and fifty miles below ,serpa4 ,villa ,nova is a straggling village of mud huts standing on a conglomerate bank4 ,the trade is chiefly in rubber1 copaiba1 and fish4 ,the location is healthy1 and in many respects is one of the most desirable places on the river4 ,here the ,amazon begins to narrow1 being scarcely three miles wide2 but the channel1 which has a rocky bed1 is very deep4 ,one hundred miles from ,villa ,nova is ,obidos1 airily situated on a bluff of pink and yellow clay one hundred feet above the river4 ,the clay rests on a white calcareous earth1 and this on red sandstone4 ,it is a picturesque1 substantially-built town1 with a population1 mostly white1 engaged in raising cacao and cattle4 ,cacao is the most valuable product on the ,amazon below ,villa ,nova4 ,the soil is fertile1 and the surrounding forest is alive with monkeys1 birds1 and insects1 and abounds with precious woods and fruits4 ,obidos is blessed with a church1 a school1 and a weekly newspaper1 and is defended by thirty-two guns4 ,this is the ,thermopyl of the ,amazon1 the great river contracting to a strait not a mile in width1 through which it rushes with tremendous velocity4 ,the depth is forty fathoms1 and the current #b4d feet per second4 ,as ,bates remarks1 however1 the river valley is not contracted to this breadth1 the southern shore not being continental land1 but a low alluvial tract subject to inundation4 ,back of ,obidos is an eminence which has been named ,mount ,agassiz in honor of the ,naturalist4 ,there is no mountain between it and ,cotopaxi save the spurs from the ,eastern ,cordillera4 ,five miles above the town is the mouth of the ,trombetas1 where ,orellana had his celebrated fight with the fabulous ,amazons4 ,footnote #adb3 ,otherwise called1 on ,brazilian maps1 ,villa ,bella da ,imperatriz4 ,illustration3 ,santarem4 ,adding to her cargo wood1 hides1 horses1 and ,paraguayan prisoners 7short1 athletic men71 the ,tapajos sailed for ,santarem4 ,the river scenery below ,obidos loses its wild and solitary character1 and is relieved with scattered habitations1 factories1 and cacao plantations4 ,we arrived at ,santarem in seven hours from ,obidos1 a distance of fifty miles4 ,this city1 the largest on the ,amazon save ,par1 stands on a pretty slope at the mouth of the ,rio ,tapajos1 and five hundred miles from the sea4#adc ,it mainly consists of three long-rows of whitewashed1 tiled houses1 girt with green gardens4 ,the citizens1 made up of ,brazilians1 ,portuguese1 mulattoes1 and blacks1 number about two thousand five hundred4 ,the surrounding country1 which is an undulating campo1 with patches of wood1 is sparsely inhabited by ,tapajocos4 ,cattle estates and cacao plantations are the great investments1 but the soil is poor4 ,considerable sarsaparilla of superior quality1 rubber1 copaiba1 ,brazil nuts1 and farina come down the ,tapajos4 ,the climate is delightful1 the trade-winds tempering the heat and driving away all insect pests4 ,leprosy is somewhat common among the poorer class4 ,at ,santarem is one of the largest colonies which migrated from the disaffected ,gulf ,states for ,brazil4 ,one hundred and sixty ,southerners pitched their tents here4 ,many of them1 however1 were soon disgusted with the country1 and1 if we are to believe reports1 the country was disgusted with them4 ,on the #ast of ,january1 #ahfh1 only seventy-five remained4 ,the colony does not fairly represent the ,united ,states1 being made up in great part of the roughs of ,mobile4 ,a few are contented and are doing well4 ,amazonia will be indebted to them for some valuable ideas4 ,bates says3 ,butter-making is unknown in this country2 the milk1 ,i was told1 was too poor4 ,but these ,anglo-,saxon immigrants have no difficulty in making butter4 ,santarem sends to ,par for sugar2 but the cavaliers of ,alabama are proving that the sugar-cane grows better than in ,louisiana1 attaining the height of twenty feet1 and that it will yield for ten or twelve years without transplanting or cultivation4 ,it is not1 however1 so sweet or juicy as the ,southern cane4 ,some of the colonists are making tapioca and cashaa or ,brazilian rum2 others have gone into the pork business2 while one1 ,dr4 ,jones1 expects to realize a fortune burning lime4 ,here we met the rebel ex-,general ,dobbins1 who had been prospecting on the ,tapajos ,river1 but had not yet located himself4 ,footnote #adc3 ,herndon makes ,santarem #dfj miles from the ,negro1 and #fej from the sea4 ,bates calls it #djj miles from the ,atlantic1 and nearly #ej from ,obidos4 ,below ,santarem the ,amazon vastly increases in width2 at one point the southern shore was invisible from the steamer4 ,the waves often run very high4 ,at #aj ,a4,m41 eight hours from ,santarem1 we entered the romantic port of ,monte ,algre4 ,the road from the river to the village1 just visible inland1 runs through a pretty dell4 ,back of the village1 beyond a low1 swampy flat1 rise the table-topped blue hills of ,almeyrim4 ,it was an exhilarating sight and a great relief to gaze upon a mountain range from three hundred to one thousand feet high1 the greatest elevations along the ,amazon east of the ,andes4 ,agassiz considers these singular mountains the remnants of a plain which once filled the whole valley of the ,amazon2 but ,bates believes them to be the southern terminus of the high land of ,guiana4 ,their geological constitution--a pebbly sandstone--favors the ,professor's theory4 ,the range extends ninety miles along the north bank of the river1 the western limit at ,monte ,algre bearing the local name of ,serra ,erer4 ,mount ,agassiz1 at ,obidos1 is a spur of the same table-land4 ,the ,amazon is here about five miles wide1 the southern shore being low1 uninhabited1 and covered with coarse grass4 ,five schooners were anchored in the harbor of ,monte ,algre1 a sign of considerable trade for the ,amazon4 ,the place exports cattle1 cacao1 rubber1 and fish4 ,in four hours we reached ,prayinha1 a dilapidated village of forty houses1 situated on a low1 sandy beach4 ,the chief occupation is the manufacture of turtle-oil4 ,in ten hours more we were taking in wood at ,porto do ,moz1 situated just within the mouth of the ,xing1 the last great tributary to the ,amazon4 ,dismal was our farewell sail on the great river4 ,with the highlands came foul weather4 ,we were treated to frequent and furious showers1 accompanied by a violent wind1 and the atmosphere was filled with smoke caused by numerous fires in the forest4 ,where the ,xing comes in1 the ,amazon is ten miles wide1 but it is soon divided by a series of islands1 the first of which is ,grand ,island4 ,twenty miles below ,porto do ,moz is ,gurup1 where we took in rubber4 ,the village1 nearly as inanimate as ,pompeii1 consists of one street1 half deserted1 built on an isolated site4 ,forty miles below ,gurup we left the ,amazon proper1 turning to the right down a narrow channel leading into the river ,par4 ,the forest became more luxuriant1 the palms especially increasing in number and beauty4 ,at one place there was a forest of palms1 a singularity1 for trees of the same order are seldom associated4 ,the forest1 densely packed and gloomy1 stands on very low1 flat banks of hard river mud4 ,scarcely a sign of animal life was visible2 but1 as we progressed1 dusky faces peered out of the woods2 little shanties belonging to the seringeros1 or rubber-makers1 here and there broke the solitude1 and occasionally a large group of half-clad natives greeted us from the shore4 ,a labyrinth of channels connects the ,amazon with the ,par2 the steamers usually take the ,tajapur4 ,this natural canal is of great depth1 and from fifty to one hundred yards in width2 so that1 hemmed in by two green walls1 eighty feet-high1 we seemed to be sailing through a deep gorge2 in some places it was so narrow it was nearly overarched by the foliage4 ,one hundred and twenty-five miles from ,gurup is ,breves1 a busy little town on the southwest corner of the great island of ,maraj4 ,the inhabitants1 mostly ,portuguese1 are engaged in the rubber trade2 the ,indians in the vicinity manufacture fancy earthen-ware and painted cuyas or calabashes4 ,soon after leaving ,breves we entered the ,par ,river1 which suddenly begins with the enormous width of eight miles4 ,it is1 however1 shallow1 and contains numerous shoals and islands4 ,it is properly an estuary1 immense volumes of fresh water flowing into it from the south4 ,the tides are felt through its entire length of one hundred and sixty miles1 but the water is only slightly brackish4 ,it has a dingy orange-brown color4 ,a narrow blue line on our left1 miles away1 was all that was visible1 at times1 of the island of ,maraj2 and as we passed the broad mouth of the ,tocantns1 we were struck with the magnificent sea-like expanse1 for there was scarcely a point of mainland to be seen4 ,illustration3 ,par4 ,at #d ,p4,m41 eighteen hours from ,breves1 we entered the peaceful bay of ,goajara1 and anchored in front of the city of ,par4 ,beautiful was the view of the city from the harbor in the rays of the declining sun4 ,the towering spires and cupolas1 the palatial government buildings1 the long row of tall warehouses facing a fleet of schooners1 ships1 and steamers1 and pretty white villas in the suburbs1 nestling in luxuriant gardens1 were to us1 who had just come down the ,andes from medival ,quito1 the ultima thule of civilization4 ,we seemed to have stepped at once from the ,amazon to ,new ,york or ,london4 ,we might1 indeed1 say ne plus ultra in one respect--we had crossed the continent1 and ,par was the terminus of our wanderings1 the end of romantic adventures1 of privations and perils4 ,we were kindly met on the pier by ,mr4 ,james ,henderson1 an elderly ,scotchman1 whom a long residence in ,par1 a bottomless fund of information1 and a readiness to serve an ,anglo-,saxon1 have made an invaluable cicerone4 ,we shot through the devious1 narrow streets to the ,hotel ,diana1 where we made our toilet1 for our habiliments1 too1 had reached their ultima thule4 ,as ,la ,condamine said on his arrival at ,quito3 ,je me trouvai hors d'tat de paroitre en public avec dcence4 ,the same year which saw ,shakspeare carried to his grave beside the ,avon witnessed the founding of ,par1 or1 speaking more respectfully1 of ,santa ,maria de ,belm do ,gram ,par4 ,the city stands on a low elbow of land formed by the junction of the rivers ,guam and ,par1 seventy-five miles from the ocean4 ,the great forest comes close up to the suburbs2 and1 in fact1 vegetation is so rapid the city fathers have a hard struggle to keep the jungle out of the streets4 ,the river in front is twenty miles wide1 but the vast expanse is broken by numerous islets4 ,ships of any size will float within1 one hundred and fifty yards of the shore4 ,all passengers and goods are landed by boats at the custom-house wharf4 ,the city is regularly laid out1 there are several public squares1 and many of the streets1 especially in the commercial part1 are well paved4 ,magnificent avenues1 lined with silk-cotton trees1 cocoa-palms1 and almonds1 lead out to beautiful rocinhas1 or country residences1 of one story1 but having spacious verandas4 ,the ,president's house1 built in the ,italian style1 whose marble staircase is a wonder to ,brazil2 the six large churches1 including the cathedral1 after patterns from ,lisbon2 the post-office1 custom-house1 and convent-looking warehouses on the mole--these are the most prominent buildings4 ,the architecture is superior to that of ,quito4 ,the houses1 generally two-storied1 are tiled1 plastered1 and whitewashed or painted2 the popular colors are red1 yellow1 and blue4 ,a few have porcelain facing4 ,the majority have elegant balconies and glass windows1 but not all the old projecting lattice casements have disappeared4 ,some of the buildings bear the marks of the cannonading in the ,revolution of #ahce4 ,instead of bedrooms and beds1 the largest apartments and verandahs have hooks in the wall for hammocks4 ,a carpeted1 cushioned room is seldom seen1 and is out of place in the tropics4 ,coaches and gas are supplanting ox-carts and candles4 ,there are two hotels1 but scant accommodations for travelers4 ,beef is almost the only meat used2 the fish are poor and dear2 the oysters are horrible4 ,bananas1 oranges1 and coffee are the best native productions on the table4 ,illustration3 ,fruit ,peddlers4 ,the population of ,par is thirty-five thousand1 or double what it was when ,wallace and ,bates entered it twenty years ago4 ,it is the largest city on the largest river in the world1 and the capital of a province ten times the size of ,new ,york ,state4 ,the enterprising1 wealthy class consists of ,portuguese and pure ,brazilians1 with a few ,english1 ,germans1 ,french1 and ,north ,americans4 ,the multitude is an amalgamation of ,portuguese1 ,indian1 and ,negro4 ,the diversity of races1 and the mingled dialects of the ,amazon and ,europe1 make an attractive street scene4 ,side by side we see the corpulent ,brazilian planter1 the swarthy ,portuguese trader1 the merry ,negro porter1 and the apathetic ,indian boatman4 ,some of the more recent offspring are dressed la ,adam before the fall2 numbers wear only a shirt or skirt2 the negro girls who go about the streets with trays of sweetmeats on their heads are loosely yet prettily dressed in pure white1 with massive gilded chains and earrings2 but the middle and upper classes generally follow ,paris fashions4 ,the mechanic arts are in the hands of free ,negroes and ,indians1 mulattoes and mamelucos4#add ,commerce is carried on almost exclusively by ,portuguese and other foreigners4 ,dry-goods come chiefly from ,england and ,france2 groceries from ,portugal2 flour and hardware from the ,united ,states4 ,the principal exports are rubber1 cacao1 coffee1#ade sugar1 cotton1 ,brazil nuts1 sarsaparilla1 vanilla1 farina1 copaiba1 tobacco1 rum1 hides1 fish1 parrots1 and monkeys4#adf ,par exceeds in the number of its indigenous commodities any other port in the world1 but the trade at present is insignificant when we consider the vast extent and resources of the country4 ,the city can never have a rival at the mouth of the ,amazon1 and is destined to become a great emporium4 ,but ,brazilian legislation stands in the way4 ,heavy import duties are charged--from #ce to #de per cent42 and on the #ast of ,january1 #ahfh1 it was ordered that #ae per cent4 must be paid in ,english gold4 ,the consequence has been that gold has risen from #bh to #cj above par1 creating an additional tax4 ,exportation is equally discouraging4 ,there is a duty of nine per cent4 to be paid at the custom-house1 and seven per cent4 more at the consulado4 ,but this is not the sum total4 ,those who live outside of the province of ,par1 say above ,obidos1 must first pay an import of thirteen per cent4 to get their produce into ,par4 ,for example3 up the river crude rubber can be bought for twenty-five cents a pound2 the trader pays twenty-five cents an arroba 7thirty-two pounds7 for transportation to ,par from ,santarem1 exclusive of canoe hire and shipping2 thirteen per cent4 duty in entering ,par1 ten per cent4 to the commission merchant1 and sixteen per cent4 more as export tax2 making a total loss on labor of about fifty per cent4 ,brazil abounds with the most valuable woods in the world1 but is prevented from competing with other nations by this system of self-strangulation4 ,in #ahfg the import duty on timber was twelve per cent4 ,though situated on the edge of a boundless forest1 ,par consumes large quantities of ,north ,american pine4 ,there is not a grist-mill on the ,amazon1 and only two or three saw-mills4 ,a dozen boards of red cedar 7a very common timber7 costs #fjjjj per thousand 7about thirty dollars7 at ,santarem4 ,there is no duty on goods going to ,peru4 ,the current money1 besides foreign gold1 consists of copper coins and imperial treasury notes4 ,the basis of calculation is the imaginary rey1 equivalent to half a mill4 ,the coins in use are the vintem 7twenty reys71 answering to our cent1 the half vintem1 and double vintem4 ,the currency has so fluctuated in value that many of the pieces have been restamped4 ,fifty vintems make a milrey1 expressed thus3 #ajjj4 ,this is the smallest paper issue4 ,unfortunately1 the notes may suddenly fall below par4 ,as a great many counterfeits made in ,portugal are in circulation1 the government recalls the issue which has been counterfeited1 notifying holders1 by the provincial papers1 that all such bills must be exchanged for a new issue within six months4 ,those not brought in at the end of that period lose ten per cent4 of their value1 and ten per cent4 for each following month1 until the value of the note is nil4 ,the result has been that many persons trading up the river have lost heavily1 and now demand hard money4 ,change is very scarce in ,par4 ,footnote #add3 ,we are inclined to doubt the assertion of ,mansfield that ,paraguay is the only country in eastern ,south ,america with an industrious peasantry4 ,footnote #ade3 ,brazil yields more than one half the quantity of coffee consumed by the world4 ,that of ,cear is the best4 ,footnote #adf3 ,in ,january1 #ahfh1 the current prices were as follows3 ,refined ,sugar1 per arroba #c #jj ,rice #a #dj ,cacao #c #bj ,coffee #c #ej ,farina #ge ,tapioca #c #jj ,pure rubber #aa #ej ,plassaba cord #f #ej ,tobacco #a #ej ,sarsparilla #aa #ej ,the ,brazilian arroba is seven pounds heavier than the ,spanish4 ,the province of ,par is governed by a president chosen at ,rio1 and every four years sends representatives to the ,imperial ,parliament4 ,the ,constitution of ,brazil is very liberal2 every householder1 without distinction of race or color1 has a vote1 and may work his way up to high position4 ,there are two drawbacks--the want of intelligence and virtue in the people1 and the immense staff of officials employed to administer the government4 ,there are also many formalities which are not only useless1 but a hinderance to prosperity4 ,thus1 the internal trade of a province carried on by ,brazilian subjects is not exempt from the passport system4 ,a foreigner finds as much trouble in getting his passport en rgle in ,par as in ,vienna4 ,the religion of ,par is ,romish1 and not so tolerant as in ,rio4 ,we arrived during festa4 7,when did a traveler enter a ,portuguese town on any other than a feast day87 ,that night was made hideous with rockets1 fire-crackers1 cannon1 and bells4 ,music1 noise1 and fireworks1 says ,wallace1 are the three essentials to please a ,brazilian populace4 ,the most celebrated shrine in ,northern ,brazil is ,our ,lady of ,nazareth4 ,the little chapel stands about a mile out of the city1 and is now rebuilding for the third time4 ,the image is a doll about the size of a girl ten years old1 wearing a silver crown and a dress of blue silk glittering with golden stars4 ,hosts of miracles are attributed to ,our ,lady1 and we were shown votive offerings and models of legs1 arms1 heads1 etc41 etc41 the grateful in memoriam of wonderful cures1 besides a boat whose crew were saved by invoking the protection of ,mary4 ,the facilities for education are improving4 ,there are several seminaries in ,par1 of which the chief is the ,lyceo da ,capital4 ,too many youths1 however1 as in ,quito1 are satisfied with a little rhetoric and law4 ,the city supports four newspapers4 ,parenses may well be proud of their delightful climate4 ,wallace says the thermometer ranges from #gd to #hg2 our observation made the mean annual temperature #hj4b4 ,the mean daily temperature does not vary more than two or three degrees4 ,the climate is more equable than that of any other observed part of the ,new ,world4#adg ,the greatest heat is reached at two o'clock1 but it is never so oppressive as in ,new ,york4 ,the greater the heat1 the stronger the sea-breeze2 and in three hundred out of three hundred and sixty-five days1 the air is farther cooled by an afternoon shower4 ,the rainiest month is ,april2 the dryest1 ,october or ,november4 ,lying in the delta of a great river1 in the middle of the tropics1 and half surrounded by swamps1 its salubrity is remarkable4 ,we readily excuse the proverb1 ,quem vai para ,par para 7,he who goes to ,par stops there72 and we might have made it good1 had we not been tempted by the magnificent steamer ,south ,america1 which came up from ,rio on the way to ,new ,york4 ,on the moonlit night of the #gth of ,january1 when the ice-king had thrown his white robes over the ,north1 we turned our backs upon the glimmering lights of ,par1 and noiselessly as a canoe glided down the great river4 ,as the sun rose for the last time to us upon the land of perpetual verdure1 our gallant ship was plowing the mottled waters on the edge of the ocean--mingled yellow patches of the ,amazon and dark streaks from the ,par floating on the ,atlantic green4 ,far behind us we could see the breakers dashing against the ,braganza ,banks2 a moment after ,cape ,magoary dropped beneath the horizon1 and with it ,south ,america vanished from our view4 ,footnote #adg3 ,the traveler1 in going from the equator toward the tropics1 is less struck by the decrease of the mean annual temperature than by the unequal distribution of heat in different parts of the year4--,humboldt4 ,the great ,german fixes the mean temperature of the equator at #ha4e2 ,brewster1 at #hb4h2 ,kirwan1 #hc4i2 ,atkinson1 #hd4e4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,the ,river ,amazon4--,its ,source and ,magnitude4--,tributaries and ,tints4--,volume and ,current4--,rise and ,fall4--,navigation4--,expeditions on the ,great ,river4 ,near the silver mines of ,cerro ,pasco1 in the little ,lake of ,lauricocha1 just below the limit of perpetual winter1 rises the ,king of ,waters4#adh ,for the first five hundred miles it flows northerly1 in a continuous series of cataracts and rapids1 through a deep valley between the parallel ,cordilleras of ,peru4 ,upon reaching the frontier of ,ecuador1 it turns to the right1 and runs easterly two thousand five hundred miles across the great equatorial plain of the continent4#adi ,no other river flows in the same latitude1 and retains1 therefore1 the same climatic conditions for so great a distance4 ,the breadth of the ,amazon1 also1 is well proportioned to its extraordinary length4 ,at ,tabatinga1 two thousand miles above its mouth1 it is a mile and a half wide2 at the entrance of the ,madeira1 it is three miles2 below ,santarem1 it is ten2 and if the ,par be considered a part of the great river1 it fronts the ,atlantic one hundred and eighty miles4 ,brazilians proudly call it the ,mediterranean of the ,new ,world4 ,its vast expanse1 presenting below ,teff magnificent reaches1 with blank horizons1 and forming a barrier between different species of animals2 its system of back channels1 joining the tributaries1 and linking a series of lagunes too many ever to be named2 its network of navigable waters stretching over one third of the continent2 its oceanic fauna--porpoises and manatis1 gulls and frigate-birds--remind the traveler of a great inland sea1 with endless ramifications1 rather than a river4 ,the side-channels through the forest1 called by the ,indians igaraps1 or canoe-paths1 are one of the characteristic features of the ,amazon4#aej ,they often run to a great distance parallel to the great river1 and intersecting the tributaries1 so that one can go from ,santarem a thousand miles up the ,amazon without once entering it4 ,these natural highways will be of immense advantage for inter-communication4 ,illustration3 ,igarap1 or ,canoe-path4 ,footnote #adh3 ,herndon gives1 for the altitude of ,cerro ,pasco1 #ac1hjb feet2 ,rivero1 #ad1bgi4 ,the lieutenant thus describes his first view from the rough hills surrounding this birthplace of the greatest of rivers3 ,i can compare it to nothing so fitly as looking from the broken and ragged edges of a volcano into the crater beneath4 ,footnote #adi3 ,from ,lauricocha to its mouth1 the ,amazon1 following the main curves1 is #bgdj miles long1 as estimated by ,bates2 in a straight line1 #bjej2 from ,par to the head of the ,ucayali1 #cjjj4 ,from north to south the tributaries stretch #agbj miles4 ,footnote #aej3 ,igarap is sometimes limited to a creek filled with back-water2 paranamirim is the proper term for a narrow arm of the main river2 and furos are the diminutive mouths of the tributaries4 ,but extraordinary as is this network of natural canals1 the tributaries of the ,amazon are still more wonderful4 ,they are so numerous they appear on the map like a thousand ribbons streaming from a main mast1 and many of the obscure affluents1 though large as the ,hudson1 are unknown to geography4 ,from three degrees north to twenty degrees south1 every river that flows down the eastern slope of the ,andes is a contributor--as though all the rivers between ,mexico and ,mount ,hooker united their waters in the ,mississippi4 ,while the great river of the northern continent drains an area of one million two hundred thousand square miles1 the ,amazon 7not including the ,tocantns7 is spread over a million more1 or over a surface equal to two thirds of all ,europe4 ,let us journey around the grand trunk and take a glimpse of the main branches4 ,the first we meet in going up the left bank is the ,rio ,negro4 ,it rises in the ,sierra ,tunuhy1 an isolated mountain group in the llanos of ,colombia1 and enters the ,amazon at ,manos1 a thousand miles from the sea4 ,the upper part1 down to the parallel of one degree north1 has a very rapid current2 at ,san ,gabriel are the first rapids in ascending2 between ,san ,gabriel and ,barcellos the rate is not over two or three miles per hour2 between ,barcellos and ,manos it is a deep but sluggish river1 and in the annual rise of the ,amazon its waters are stagnant for several hundred miles up1 or actually flow back4 ,its extreme length is twelve hundred miles1 and its greatest breadth is at ,barcellos1 where it is twelve or fifteen miles4 ,excepting this middle section1 the usual breadth of the ,negro below the equatorial line is about one mile4 ,it is joined to the ,orinoco by the navigable ,cassiquiari1#aea a natural canal three fourths of a mile wide1 and a portage of only two hours divides the head of its tributary1 the ,branco1 from the ,essequibo of ,guiana4 ,the ,negro yields to commerce coffee1 cacao1 farina1 sarsaparilla1 ,brazil nuts1 pitch1 piassaba1 and valuable woods4 ,the commerce of ,brazil with ,venezuela by the ,rio ,negro amounted in #ahfg to #bb1jjj1 of which #ijjj was the value of imports4 ,the principal villages above ,manos are ,san ,miguel and ,moroa 7which contain about fifty dwellings each71 ,tireguin1 ,barcellos1 ,toma1 ,san ,carlos1 ,coana1 ,san ,gabriel1 and ,santa ,isabel4 ,footnote #aea3 ,the ,cassiquiari belongs indifferently to both river systems1 the level being so complete at one point between them as to obliterate the line of water-shed4--,herschel4 ,the next great affluent is the ,japur4 ,it rises in the mountains of ,new ,granada1 and1 flowing southeasterly a thousand miles1 enters the ,amazon opposite ,ega1 five hundred miles above ,manos4 ,its principal mouth is three hundred feet wide1 but it has a host of distributing channels1 the extremes of which are two hundred miles apart4 ,its current is only three quarters of a mile an hour1 and it has been ascended by canoes five hundred miles4 ,a natural canal like the ,cassiquiari is said to connect it with the ,orinoco4 ,the products of the ,japur are sarsaparilla1 copaiba1 rubber1 cacao1 farina1 ,brazil nuts1 moira-pirnga--a hard1 fine-grained wood of a rich1 cherry-red color--and carajur1 a brilliant scarlet dye4 ,parallel to the ,japur is the ,putumayo or ,iss4 ,its source is the ,lake of ,san ,pablo1 at the foot of the volcano of ,pasto2 its mouth1 as given by ,herndon1 is half a mile broad1 and its current two and three fourths miles an hour4 ,farther west are the ,napo and ,pastassa1 starting from the volcanoes of ,quito4 ,the former is nearly seven hundred miles long1 navigable five hundred4 ,the latter is an unnavigable torrent4 ,one of its branches1 the ,topo1 is one continued rapid2 of those who have fallen into it1 only one has come out alive4 ,another1 the ,patate1 rises near ,iliniza1 runs through the plain to a little south of ,cotopaxi1 receives all streams flowing from the eastern side of the western ,cordillera from ,iliniza to ,chimborazo1 and unites near ,tunguragua with the ,chambo1 which rises near ,sanga4 ,castelnau and ,bates saw pumice floating on the ,amazon2 it was probably brought from ,cotopaxi by the ,pastassa4 ,crossing the ,maraon1 and going eastward1 we first pass the ,huallaga1 a rapid river of the size of the ,cumberland1 coming down the ,peruvian ,andes from an altitude of eight thousand six hundred feet1 and entering the great river nearly opposite the ,pastassa4 ,its mouth is a mile wide1 and for a hundred miles up its average depth is three fathoms4 ,in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september the steamers are not able to ascend to ,yurimaguas4 ,canoe navigation begins at ,tinga ,maria1 three hundred miles from ,lima4 ,the fertile plain through which the river flows is very attractive to an agriculturist4 ,cotton is gathered six months after sowing1 and rice in five months4 ,at ,tarapoto a large amount of cotton-cloth is woven for export4 ,the next great tributary from the south is the ,ucayali4 ,this magnificent stream originates near ancient ,cuzco1 and has a fall of 4#hg of a foot per mile1 and a length nearly equal to that of the ,negro4 ,for two hundred and fifty miles above its mouth it averages half a mile in width1 and has a current of three miles an hour4 ,at ,sarayacu it is twenty feet deep4 ,the ,ucayali is navigable for at least seven hundred miles4 ,the ,morona1 a steamer of five hundred tons1 has been up to the entrance of the ,pachita in the dry season1 a distance of six hundred miles1 and in the wet season ascended that branch to ,mayro4 ,a small ,peruvian steamer has recently ascended the ,tambo to within sixty miles of ,fort ,ramon1 or seven hundred and seventy-three miles from ,nauta4 ,leaving the ,ucayali1 we pass by six rivers rising in the unknown lands of ,northern ,bolivia3 the ,javar1 navigable by steam for two hundred and fifty miles2 the sluggish ,jutah1 half a mile broad and four hundred miles long2 the ,juru1 four times the size of our ,connecticut1 and navigable nearly its entire length2 the unhealthy1 little-known ,teff and ,coary2 and the ,purus1 a deep1 slow river1 over a thousand miles long1 and open to navigation half way to its source4 ,soldan and ,pinto claim to have ascended the ,javar1 in a steamer1 about one thousand miles1 and it is said ,chandlers went up the ,purus one thousand eight hundred miles4 ,the ,teff is narrow1 with a strong current4 ,of all these six rivers1 the ,purus is the most important4 ,it is probably the ,amaru-mayu1 or serpent-river1 of the ,incas1 and its affluents enjoy the privilege of draining the waters of those beautiful ,andes which formed the eastern boundary of the empire of ,manco ,capac1 and fertilizing the romantic valley of ,paucar-tambo1 or ,inn of the ,flowery ,meadow4 ,the banks of this noble stream are now held by the untamable ,chunchos2 but the steam-whistle will accomplish what the rifle can not4 ,the ,purus communicates with the ,madeira1 proving the absence of rapids and of intervening mountains4 ,sixty miles below the confluence of the ,negro1 the mighty ,madeira1 the largest tributary of the ,amazon1 blends its milky waters with the turbid king of rivers4 ,it is about two thousand miles in length2 one branch1 the ,beni1 rising near ,lake ,titicaca1 drains the fertile valleys of ,yungus and ,apollo1 rich in cinchona1 chocolate1 and gold2 the ,marmor springs from the vicinity of ,chuquisaca1 within fifteen miles of a source of the ,paraguay1 traversing the territory of the brave and intelligent ,moxos2 while the ,itinez washes down the gold and diamonds of ,matto ,grosso4 ,were it not for the cascade four hundred and eighty miles from its mouth1 large vessels might sail from the ,amazon into the very heart of ,bolivia4 ,when full1 it has a three-mile current1 and at its junction with the ,amazon it is two miles wide and sixty-six feet deep4 ,five hundred miles from its mouth it is a mile wide and one hundred feet deep4 ,it contains numerous islands1 and runs in a comparatively straight course4 ,it received its name from the vast quantity of drift-wood often seen floating down4 ,the value of ,brazilian commerce with ,bolivia by the ,madeira was1 in #ahfg1 #dc1jjj4aeb ,footnote #aeb3 ,in the map of ,friar ,fritz1 published in #agjg1 the ,madeira is one of the most insignificant of the tributaries1 and the ,ucayali and ,putumayo are the largest4 ,at ,santarem the ,amazon receives another great tributary1 the ,tapajos 7or ,rio ,preto1 as the ,portuguese call it71 a thousand miles long1 and1 for the last eighty miles1 from four to twelve miles in breadth4 ,it rises amid the glittering mines of ,matto ,grosso1 only twenty miles from the headwaters of the ,rio ,plata1 and flows rapidly down through a magnificent hilly country to the last cataract1 which is one hundred and sixty miles above ,santarem1 and is the end of navigation to sailing vessels4 ,thence to the ,amazon it has little current and no great depth4 ,from ,santarem to ,diamantino it is about twenty-six days' travel4 ,large quantities of sarsaparilla1 rubber1 tonka beans1 mandioca1 and guarana are brought down this river4 ,parallel to the ,tapajos1 and about two hundred miles distant1 flows the ,xing4 ,it rises in the heart of the empire1 has the length of the ,ohio and ,monongahela1 and can be navigated one hundred and fifty miles4 ,this is the last great tributary of the ,amazon proper2 if1 however1 we consider the ,par as only one of the outlets of the great river1 we may then add to the list the grand ,tocantns4#aec ,this splendid river has its source in the rich province of ,minas 7the source1 also1 of the ,san ,francisco and ,uruguay71 not six hundred miles from ,rio ,janeiro--a region possessing the finest climate in ,brazil1 and yielding diamonds and rubies1 the sapphire1 topaz and opal1 gold1 silver1 and petroleum4 ,the ,tocantns is sixteen hundred miles long1 and ten miles broad at its mouth2 but1 unfortunately1 rapids commence one hundred and twenty miles above ,camet4 ,the ,araguaia1 its main branch1 is1 according to ,castelnau1 one mile wide1 with a current of three fourths of a mile an hour4 ,footnote #aec3 ,we are inclined to hold1 with ,bates and others1 that the ,par ,river is not1 strictly speaking1 one of the mouths of the ,amazon4 ,it is made to appear so on many of the maps in common use1 because the channels which connect it with the main river are there given much broader than they are in reality1 conveying the impression that a large body of water finds an outlet from the main river into the ,par4 ,it is doubtful1 however1 if there be any considerable stream of water flowing constantly downward through these channels4 ,there is a great contrast in general appearance between the ,par and the main ,amazon4 ,in the former the flow of the tide always creates a strong current upward1 while in the ,amazon the turbid flow of the mighty stream overpowers all tides1 and produces a constant downward current4 ,the color of the water is different2 that of the ,par being of a dingy orange-brown1 while the ,amazon has an ochreous or yellowish-clay tint4 ,the forests on their banks have a different aspect4 ,on the ,par1 the infinitely diversified trees seem to rise directly out of the water1 the forest-frontage is covered with greenery1 and wears a placid aspect2 while the shores of the main ,amazon are encumbered with fallen trunks1 and are fringed with a belt of broad-leaved grasses4--,naturalist on the ,amazon1 i41 p4 #c-e4 ,here are six tributaries1 all of them superior to any river in ,europe1 outside of ,russia1 save the ,danube1 and ten times greater than any stream on the west slope of the ,andes4 ,while the ,arkansas joins the ,mississippi four hundred miles above ,new ,orleans1 the ,madeira1 of equal length1 enters the ,amazon nine hundred miles from ,par4 ,but1 vast as are these tributary streams1 they seem to make no impression on the ,amazon2 they are lost like brooks in the ocean4 ,our ideas of the magnitude of the great river are wonderfully increased when we see the ,madeira coming down two thousand miles1 yet its enormous contribution imperceptible half way across the giant river2 or the dark waters of the ,negro creeping along the shore1 and becoming undistinguishable five miles from its mouth4 ,though the ,amazon carries a larger amount of sediment than any other river1 it has no true delta1 the archipelago in its mouth 7for1 like our own ,st4 ,lawrence1 it has its ,bay of a ,thousand ,isles7 not being an alluvial formation1 but having a rocky base4 ,the great island of ,maraj1 in physical configuration1 resembles the mainland of ,guiana4 ,the deltoid outlet is confined to the tributaries1 nearly all of them1 like the disembogning ,nile1 emptying themselves by innumerable embouchures4 ,to several tributaries the ,amazon gives water before it receives their tribute4 ,thus1 by ascending the ,negro sixty miles1 we have the singular spectacle of water pouring in from the ,amazon through the ,guariba ,channel4 ,the waters of this great river system are of divers tints4 ,the ,amazon1 as it leaps from the ,andes1 and as far down as the ,ucayali1 is blue1 passing into a clear olive-green2 likewise the ,pastassa1 ,huallaga1 ,tapajos1 ,xing1 and ,tocantns4 ,below the ,ucayali it is of a pale1 yellowish olive2 the ,madeira1#aed ,purus1 ,juru1 ,jutah1 ,javar1 ,ucayali1 ,napo1 ,ia1 and ,japur are of similar color4 ,the ,negro1 ,coary1 and ,teff are black4 ,humboldt observes that a cooler atmosphere1 fewer musquitoes1 greater salubrity1 and absence of crocodiles1 as also of fish1 mark the region of these black rivers4 ,this is not altogether true4 ,the ,amazon throughout is healthy1 being swept by the trade-winds4 ,the branches1 which are not so constantly refreshed by the ocean breezes1 are occasionally malarious2 the white-water tributaries1 except when they have a slack current in the dry season1 have the best reputation1 while intermittent fevers are nearly confined to the dark-colored streams4 ,much of the sickness on these tropical waters1 however1 is due to exposure and want of proper food rather than to the climate4 ,the river system of ,south ,america will favorably compare1 in point of salubrity1 with the river system of its continental neighbor4#aee ,footnote #aed3 ,the ,madeira has often a milky color which it receives from the white clay along its banks4 ,footnote #aee3 ,the average temperature of the water in the ,lower ,amazon is #ha1 that of the air being a little less4 ,the temperature of the ,huallaga at ,yurimaguas was #ge when the air was #hh in the shade2 in another experiment both the river and air were #hj4 ,the ,maraon at ,iquitos was #gi when the air was #ij4 ,at the mouth of the ,juru1 ,herndon found both water and air #hb4 ,in the tropics the difference between the temperature of the water and air is proportionally less than in high latitudes4 ,as we might expect1 the volume of the ,amazon is beyond all parallel4 ,half a million cubic feet of water pour through the narrows of ,obidos every second1 and fresh water may be taken up from the ,atlantic far out of sight of land4 ,the fall of the main easterly trunk of the ,amazon is about six and a half inches per mile1 equivalent to a slope of #ba'--the same as that of the ,nile1 and one third that of the ,mississippi4 ,below ,jaen there are thirty cataracts and rapids2 at the ,pongo de ,manseriche1 at the altitude of #aafd feet 7according to ,humboldt71 it bids adieu to mountain scenery4 ,between ,tabatinga and the ocean the average current is three miles an hour4 ,it diminishes toward ,par1 and is every where at a minimum in the dry season2 but it always has the swing of an ocean current4 ,though not so rapid as the ,mississippi1 the ,amazon is deeper4 ,there are seven fathoms of water at ,nauta 7#bbjj miles from the ,atlantic71 eleven at ,tabatinga1 and twenty-seven on the average below ,mandos4#aef ,footnote #aef3 ,the assertion of the ,ency4 ,metropolitana1 that its current has great violence and rapidity1 and its depth is unfathomable1 must be received with some allowance4 ,the ,amazon and its branches are subject to an annual rise of great regularity4 ,it does not take place simultaneously over the whole river1 but there is a succession of freshets4 ,at the foot of the ,andes the rise commences in ,january2 at ,ega it begins about the end of ,february4 ,coinciding with this contribution from the west1 the ,october rains on the highlands of ,bolivia and ,brazil swell the southern tributaries1 whose accumulated floods reach the main stream in ,february2 and the latter1 unable to discharge the avalanche of waters1 inundates a vast area1 and even crowds up the northern tributaries4 ,as the ,madeira1 ,tapajos1 and ,purus subside1 the ,negro1 fed by the spring rains in ,guiana and ,venezuela1 presses downward till the central stream rolls back the now sluggish affluents from the south4 ,there is1 therefore1 a rhythmical correspondence in the rise and fall of the arms of the ,amazon1 so that this great fresh-water sea sways alternately north and south2 while the onward swell in the grand trunk is a progressive undulation eastward4 ,as the ,cambridge ,professor well says3 ,in this oceanic river the tidal action has an annual instead of a daily ebb and flow2 it obeys a larger orb1 and is ruled by the sun and not the moon4 ,as the southern affluents have the greatest volume1 the ,amazon receives its largest accession after the sun has been in the southern hemisphere4 ,the rise is gradual1 increasing to one foot per day4 ,one lowland after another sinks beneath the flood2 the forest stands up to its middle in the water1 and shady dells are transformed into navigable creeks4#aeg ,swarms of turtles leave the river for the inland lakes2 flocks of wading birds migrate to the banks of the ,negro and ,orinoco to enjoy the cloudless sky of the dry season2 alligators swim where a short time before the jaguar lay in wait for the tapir2 and the natives1 unable to fish1 huddle in their villages to spend the winter of their discontent4 ,the ,lower ,amazon is at its minimum in ,september or ,october4 ,the rise above this lowest level is between seven and eight fathoms4 ,if we consider the average width of the ,amazon two miles1 we shall have a surface of at least five thousand square miles raised fifty feet by the inundation4 ,an extraordinary freshet is expected every sixth year4 ,footnote #aeg3 ,the flooded lands are called gapos4 ,the ,atlantic tide is perceptible at ,obidos1 four hundred and fifty miles above ,par1 and ,bates observed it up the ,tapajos1 five hundred and thirty miles distant4 ,the tide1 however1 does not flow up2 there is only a rising and falling of the waters--the momentary check of the great river in its conflict with the ocean4 ,the bore1 or pirorco1 is a colossal wave at spring tide1 rising suddenly along the whole width of the ,amazon to a height of twelve or fifteen feet1 and then collapsing with a frightful roar4 ,the ,amazon presents an unparalleled extent of water communication4 ,so many and far reaching are its tributaries1 it touches every country on the continent except ,chile and ,patagonia4 ,south ,america is well nigh quartered by its river system3 the ,amazon starts within sixty miles of the ,pacific2 the ,tapajos and ,madeira reach down to the ,la ,plata2 while the ,negro mingles its waters with those of the ,orinoco4 ,the tributaries also communicate with each other by intersecting canals1 so numerous that central ,amazonia is truly a cluster of islands4 ,wagons and railroads will be out of the question for ages hence in this aquatic basin4 ,no other river runs in so deep a channel to so great a distance4 ,for two thousand miles from its month there are not less than seven fathoms of water4 ,not a fall interrupts navigation on the main stream for two thousand five hundred miles2 and it so happens that while the current is ever east 7for even the ocean can not send up its tide against it71 there is a constant trade-wind westward1 so that navigation up or down has always something in its favor4 ,as a general rule1 the breeze is not so strong during the rise of the river4 ,there are at least six thousand miles of navigation for large vessels4 ,it was lately said that the ,mississippi carries more vessels in a month1 and the ,yang-tse-,kiang in a day1 than the ,amazon all the year round4 ,but this is no longer true4 ,steamers already ascend regularly to the port of ,moyabamba1 which is less than twenty days' travel from the ,pacific coast4 ,the ,amazon was opened to the world ,september #g1 #ahfg2 and the time can not be far distant when the exhaustless wealth of the great valley--its timber1 fruit1 medicinal plants1 gums1 and dye-stuffs--will be emptied by this great highway into the commercial lap of the ,atlantic2 when crowded steamers will plow all these waters--yellow1 black1 and blue--and the sloths and alligators1 monkeys and jaguars1 toucans and turtles1 will have a bad time of it4 ,officially free to the world1 the great river is1 however1 for the present practically closed to foreign shipping1 as it is difficult to compete with the ,brazilian steamers4 ,for1 by the contract which lasts till #ahgg1 the company is allowed an annual subsidy of #d1jjj1jjj1 which has since been increased by #bej milreys per voyage4 ,in #ahfg the steamers and sailing vessels on the ,amazon were divided as follows1 though it must be remembered that few of the foreign ships1 excepting ,portuguese1 ascended beyond ,par3 ,nationality4 ,no4 ,tonnage ,united ,states #cg #ci1ija-a_/b ,brazil #di #bh1fci ,england #eb #ac1bgf-a_/b ,portugal #bd #g1hga ,france #ah #e1cdd ,prussia #d #hhi-a_/b ,holland #c #ech ,denmark #b #ebe ,holstein #c #dih ,norway #a #ace ,spain #a #ij ,the vessels carrying the stars and stripes exported from ,par to the value of #c1bce1jgciej1 or eight times the amount carried by ,brazilian craft1 and #ej1jjj milreys more than ,england4 ,while1 therefore1 the ,imperial ,company has the monopoly of trade on the ,amazon1 our ships distribute one third of the products to the world4 ,the ,united ,states is the natural commercial partner with ,brazil2 for not only is ,new ,york the half-way house between ,par and ,liverpool1 but a chip thrown into the sea at the mouth of the ,amazon will float close by ,cape ,hatteras4 ,the official value of exports from ,par in #ahfg was #i1ibf1iabeeg1 or about five millions of dollars1 an increase of one million over #ahff4 ,the early expeditions into the ,valley of the ,amazon1 in search of the ,gilded ,king1 are the most romantic episodes in the history of ,spanish discovery4 ,to the wild wanderings of these worshipers of gold succeeded the more earnest explorations of the ,jesuits1 those pioneers of geographical knowledge4 ,pinzon discovered the mouth of the river in #aejj2 but ,orellana1 who came down the ,napo in #aeda1 was the first to navigate its waters4 ,twenty years later ,aguirre descended from ,cuzco2 in #afcg1 ,texeira ascended to ,quito by the ,napo2 ,cabrera descended from ,peru in #afci2 ,juan de ,palacios by the ,napo in #agbe2 ,la ,condamine from ,jaen in #agdd1 and ,madame ,godin by the ,pastassa in #agfi4 ,the principal travelers who preceded us in crossing the continent this century were ,mawe 7#ahbh71 ,poeppig 7#ahca71 ,smyth 7#ahcd71 ,von ,tschudi 7#ahde71 ,castelnau 7#ahdf71 ,herndon and ,gibbon 7#ahea71 and ,marcoy 7#ahfg71 who came down through ,peru1 and a ,spanish commission 7,almagro1 ,spada1 ,martinez1 and ,isern71 who made the ,napo transit in #ahfe4 ,to ,spix and ,martius 7#ahbj71 ,bates and ,wallace 7#ahdh-aheg71 ,azevedo and ,pinto 7#ahfb-ahfd71 and ,agassiz 7#ahfe71 the world is indebted for the most scientific surveys of the river in ,brazil4 ,such is the ,amazon1 the mightiest river in the world1 rising amid the loftiest volcanoes on the globe1 and flowing through a forest unparalleled in extent4 ,it only wants 7wrote ,father ,acua71 in order to surpass the ,ganges1 ,euphrates1 and the ,nile in felicity1 that its source should be in ,paradise4 ,as if one name were not sufficient for its grandeur1 it has three appellations3 ,maraon1 ,solimoens1 and ,amazon2 the first applied to the part in ,peru1 the second to the portion between ,tabatinga and ,manos1 and the third to all below the ,rio ,negro4#aeh ,we have no proper conception of the vast dimensions of the thousand-armed river till we sail for weeks over its broad bosom1 beholding it sweeping disdainfully by the great ,madeira as if its contribution was of no account1 discharging into the sea one hundred thousand cubic feet of water per second more than our ,mississippi1 rolling its turbid waves thousands of miles exactly as it pleases1--plowing a new channel every year1 with tributaries twenty miles wide1 and an island in its mouth twice the size of ,massachusetts4 ,footnote #aeh3 ,the upper part of the ,maraon1 from its source to ,jaen1 is sometimes called the ,tunguragua4 ,solimoens is now seldom heard2 but1 instead1 ,middle ,amazon1 or simply ,amazon4 ,the term ,alto ,amazonas or ,high ,amazon is also applied to all above the ,negro4 ,maraon1 says ,velasco1 derives its name from the circumstance that a soldier1 sent by ,pizarro to discover the sources of the ,rio ,piura1 having beheld the mighty stream from the neighborhood of ,jaen1 and1 astonished to behold a sea of fresh water1 exclaimed1 ,hac mare an non8 ,orellana's pretended fight with a nation of female warriors gave rise to the ,portuguese name of the river1 ,amazonas 7anglicized ,amazon71 after the mythical women in ,cappadocia1 who are said to have burnt off their right breasts that they might use the bow and javelin with more skill and force1 and hence their name1 ,greek3 ,amazones from ,greek3 a and ,greek3 mazos4 ,orellana's story probably grew out of the fact that the men wear long tunics1 part the hair in the middle1 and1 in certain tribes1 alone wear ornaments4 ,some derive the name from the ,indian word amassona1 boat-destroyer4 ,the old name1 ,orellana1 after the discoverer1 is obsolete1 as also the ,indian term ,parana-tinga1 or ,king of ,waters4 ,in ordinary conversation it is designated as the river1 in distinction from its tributaries4 ,in all parts of the world 7says ,hamboldt71 the largest rivers are called by those who dwell on their banks1 ,the ,river1 without any distinct and peculiar appellation4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,the ,valley of the ,amazon4--,its ,physical ,geography4--,geology4--,climate4--,vege tation4 ,from the ,atlantic shore to the foot of the ,andes1 and from the ,orinoco to the ,paraguay1 stretches the great ,valley of the ,amazon4 ,in this vast area the ,united ,states might be packed without touching its boundaries4 ,it could contain the basins of the ,mississippi1 the ,danube1 the ,nile1 and the ,hoang-,ho4 ,it is girt on three sides by a wall of mountains3 on the north are the highlands of ,guiana and ,venezuela2 on the west stand the ,andes2 on the south rise the table-lands of ,matto ,grosso4 ,the valley begins at such an altitude1 that on the western edge vegetation differs as much from the vegetation at ,par1 though in the same latitude1 as the flora of ,canada from the flora of the ,west ,indies4 ,the greater part of the region drained by the ,amazon1 however1 is not a valley proper1 but an extensive plain4 ,from the mouth of the ,napo to the ocean1 a distance of eighteen hundred miles in a straight line1 the slope is one foot in five miles4#aei ,at ,coca1 on the ,napo1 the altitude is #hej feet1 according to our observations2 at ,tinga ,maria4 on the ,huallaga1 it is #bbjj according to ,herndon2 at the junction of the ,negro with the ,cassiquiari1 it is #djj according to ,wallace2 at the mouth of the ,marmor1 it is #hjj according to ,gibbon2 at the ,pongo de ,manseriche1 below all rapids1 it is #aafj according to ,humboldt2 and at the junction of ,araguaia with the ,tocantns1 it is #bjj according to ,castelnau4 ,these barometrical measurements represent the basin of the ,amazon as a shallow trough lying parallel to the equator1 the southern side having double the inclination of the northern1 and the whole gently sloping eastward4 ,farthermore1 the channel of the great river is not in the centre of the basin1 but lies to the north of it3 thus1 the hills of ,almeyrim rise directly from the river1 while the first falls on the ,tocantns1 ,xing1 and ,tapajos are nearly two hundred miles above their mouths2 the rapids of ,san ,gabriel1 on the ,negro1 are one hundred and seventy-five miles from the ,amazon1 while the first obstruction to the navigation of the ,madeira is a hundred miles farther from the great river4 ,footnote #aei3 ,professor ,agassiz gives the average slope as hardly more than a foot in ten miles1 which is based on the farther assertion that the distance from ,tabatinga to the sea-shore is more than #bjjj miles in a straight line4 ,the distance is not #afjj1 or exactly #aejj1 from ,par4--,see ,a ,journey in ,brazil1 p4 #cdi4 ,of the creation of this valley we have already spoken4 ,no region on the face of the globe of equal extent has such a monotonous geology4 ,around the rim of the basin are the outcroppings of a cretaceous deposit2 this rests on the hidden mezozoic and palozoic strata which form the ribs of the ,andes4 ,above it1 covering the whole basin from ,new ,granada to the ,argentine ,republic1#afj are the following formations3 first1 a stratified accumulation of sand2 second1 a series of laminated clays1 of divers colors1 without a pebble2 third1 a fine1 compact sandstone2 fourth1 a coarse1 porous sandstone1 so ferruginous as to resemble bog iron-ore4 ,this last was1 originally1 a thousand feet in thickness1 but was worn down1 perhaps1 in some sudden escape of the pent-up waters of the valley4 ,the table-topped hills of ,almeyrim are almost the sole relics4#afa ,finally1 over the undulating surface of the denuded sandstone an ochraceous1 unstratified sandy clay was deposited4 ,footnote #afj3 ,messrs4 ,myers and ,forbes found this red clay on the ,negro1 most abundantly near ,barcellos2 also in small quantities on the ,orinoco above ,maipures4 ,the officers of the ,morona assured us that the same formation was traceable far up the ,ucayali and ,huallaga4 ,this clay from the ,amazon1 as examined microscopically by ,prof4 ,h4 ,james ,clark1 contains fragments of gasteropod shells and bivalve casts4 ,the red earth of the ,pampas1 according to ,ehrenberg1 contains eight fresh-water to one salt-water animalcule4 ,footnote #afa3 ,on the ,south ,american coast1 where tertiary and supra-tertiary beds have been extensively elevated1 ,i repeatedly noticed that the uppermost beds were formed of coarser materials than the lower2 this appears to indicate that1 as the sea becomes shallower1 the force of the waves or currents increased4--,darwin's ,observations1 pt4 ii41 #aca4 ,nowhere in the ,pampas is there any appearance of much superficial denudation4--,pt4 iii41 #ajj4 ,it is a question to what period this great accumulation is to be assigned4 ,humboldt called it ,old ,red ,sandstone2 ,martius pronounced it ,new ,red2 ,agassiz says ,drift--the glacial deposit brought down from the ,andes and worked over by the melting of the ice which transported it4#afb ,the ,professor farther declares that these deposits are fresh-water deposits2 they show no sign of a marine origin2 no sea-shells nor remains of any marine animal have as yet been found throughout their whole extent2 tertiary deposits have never been observed in any part of the ,amazonian basin4 ,this was true up to #ahfg4 ,neither ,bates1 ,wallace1 nor ,agassiz found any marine fossil on the banks of the great river4 ,but there is danger in building a theory on negative evidence4 ,these explorers ascended no farther than ,tabatinga4 ,two hundred miles west of that fort is the little ,peruvian village of ,pebas1 at the confluence of the ,ambiyacu4 ,we came down the ,napo and ,maraon1 and stopped at this place4 ,here we discovered a fossiliferous bed intercalated between the variegated clays so peculiar to the ,amazon4 ,it was crowded with marine tertiary shells6 ,this was ,pebas vs4 ,cambridge4 ,it was unmistakable proof that the formation was not drift1 but tertiary2 not of fresh1 but salt water origin4 ,the species1 as determined by ,w4,m4 ,gabb1 ,esq41 of ,philadelphia1 are3 ,neritina pupa1 ,turbonilla minuscula1 ,mesalia ,ortoni1 ,tellina ,amazonenis1 ,pachydon obliqua1 and ,p4 tenua4#afc ,all of these are new forms excepting the first1 and the last is a new genus4 ,it is a singular fact that the ,neritina is now living in the ,west ,india waters1 and the species found at ,pebas retains its peculiar markings4 ,so that we have some ground for the supposition that not many years ago there was a connection between the ,caribbean ,sea and the ,upper ,amazon2 in other words1 that ,guiana has only very lately ceased to be an island4 ,there is no mountain range on the water-shed between the ,orinoco and the ,negro and ,japur1 but the three rivers are linked by natural canals4#afd ,interstratified with the clay deposit are seams of a highly bituminous lignite2 we traced it from near the mouth of the ,curaray on the ,rio ,napo to ,loreto on the ,maraon1 a distance of about four hundred miles4 ,it occurs also at ,iquitos4 ,this is farther testimony against the glacial theory of the formation of the ,amazonian ,valley4 ,the paucity of shells in such a vast deposit is not astonishing4 ,it is as remarkable in the similar accumulation of reddish argillaceous earth1 called ,pampean mud1 which overspreads the ,rio ,plata region4#afe ,some of the ,pampa shells1 like those at ,pebas1 are proper to brackish water1 and occur only on the highest banks4 ,the ,pampean formation is believed by ,mr4 ,darwin to be an estuary or delta deposit4 ,we will mention1 in this connection1 that silicified wood is found at the head waters of the ,napo2 the ,indians use it instead of flint 7which does not occur there7 in striking a light4 ,darwin found silicified trees on the same slope of the ,andes as the ,uspallata ,pass4 ,footnote #afb3 ,a ,journey in ,brazil1 p4 #bej1 #daa1 #dbd4 ,again1 in his ,lecture before the ,lowell ,institute1 #ahff3 ,these deposits could not have been made by the sea1 nor in a large lake1 as they contain no marine nor fresh-water fossils4 ,footnote #afc3 ,these interesting fossils are figured and described in the ,am4 ,journal of ,conchology4 ,footnote #afd3 ,the whole basin between the ,orinoco and the ,amazon is composed of granite and gneiss1 slightly covered with dbris4 ,there is a total absence of sedimentary rocks4 ,the surface is often bare and destitute of soil1 the undulations being only a few feet above or below a straight line4--,evan ,hopkins1 in ,quart4 ,jour4 ,geol4 ,soc41 vol4 vi4 ,footnote #afe3 ,see ,darwin on the absence of extensive modern conchiferous deposits in ,south ,america1 ,geological ,observations1 pt4 iii41 ch4 v4 ,the climatology of the ,valley of the ,amazon is as simple as its physical geography4 ,there is no circle of the seasons as with us--nature moves in a straight line4 ,the daily order of the weather is uniform for months4 ,there is very little difference between the dry and hot seasons2 the former1 lasting from ,july to ,december1 is varied with showers1 and the latter1 from ,january to ,june1 with sunny days1 while the daily temperature is the same within two or three degrees throughout the year4 ,on the water-shed between the ,orinoco and ,negro it rains throughout the year1 but most water falls between ,may and ,november1 the coolest season in that region4 ,on the ,middle ,negro the wet season extends from ,june #ast to ,december #ast1 and is the most sultry time4 ,comparatively few insects1 birds1 or beasts are to be seen in summer2 but it is the harvest-time of the inhabitants1 who spend the glorious weather rambling over the plaias and beaches1 fishing and turtle-hunting4 ,the middle of ,september is the midsummer of the valley4 ,the rainy season1 or winter1 is ushered in by violent thunder-storms from the west4 ,it is then that the woods are eloquent with buzzing insects1 shrill cicadas1 screaming parrots1 chattering monkeys1 and roaring jaguars4 ,the greatest activity of animal and vegetable life is in ,june and ,july4 ,the heaviest rains fall in ,april1 ,may1 and ,june4 ,scarcely ever is there a continuous rain for twenty-four hours4 ,castelnau witnessed at ,pebas a fall of not less than thirty inches in a single storm4 ,the greatest amount noticed in ,new ,york during the whole month of ,september was #ab4b inches4 ,the humidity of the atmosphere1 as likewise the luxuriance of vegetation and the abundance and beauty of animal forms1 increases from the ,atlantic to the ,andes4 ,at the foot of the ,andes1 ,poeppig found that the most refined sugar in a few days dissolved into sirup1 and the best gunpowder became liquid even when inclosed in canisters4 ,so we found the ,napo steaming with vapor4 ,fogs1 however1 are rarely seen on the ,amazon4 ,the animals and plants are not all simultaneously affected by the change of seasons4 ,the trees retain their verdure through the dry verao1 and have no set time for renewing their foliage4 ,there are a few trees1 like ,mongruba1 which drop their leaves at particular seasons2 but they are so few in number they create the impression of a few dead leaves in a thick-growing forest4 ,leaves are falling and flowers drooping all the year round4 ,each species1 and1 in some cases1 each individual1 has its own particular autumn and spring4 ,there is no hibernation nor stivation 7except by land shells72 birds have not one uniform time for nidification2 and moulting extends from ,february to ,may4 ,amazonia1 though equatorially situated1 has a temperate climate4 ,it is cooler than ,guinea or ,guiana4 ,this is owing to the constant evaporation from so much submerged land1 and the ceaseless trade winds4 ,the mean annual temperature of the air is about #ha4aff ,the nights are always cool4 ,there are no sudden changes1 and no fiery dog days4 ,venereal and cutaneous affections are found among the people2 but they spring from an irregular life4 ,a traveler on the slow black tributaries may take the tertiana1 but only after weeks of exposure4 ,yellow fever and cholera seldom ascend the river above ,par2 and on the ,middle ,amazon there are neither endemics nor epidemics1 though the trades are feebly felt there1 and the air is stagnant and sultry4 ,according to ,bates1 swampy and weedy places on the ,amazon are generally more healthy than dry ones4 ,whatever exceptions be taken to the branches1 the main river is certainly as healthy as the ,mississippi3 the rapid current of the water and the continual movement of the air maintaining its salubrity4 ,the few ,english residents 7,messrs4 ,hislop1 ,jeffreys1 and ,hauxwell71 who have lived here thirty or forty years1 are as fresh and florid as if they had never left their native country4 ,the native women preserve their beauty until late in life4 ,great is the contrast between the gloomy winters and dusty summers1 the chilly springs and frosty autumns of the temperate zone1 and the perennial beauty of the equator6 ,no traveler on the ,amazon would exchange what ,wallace calls the magic half-hour after sunset for the long gray twilight of the north4 ,the man accustomed to this climate 7wrote ,herndon7 is ever unwilling to give it up for a more bracing one4 ,footnote #aff3 ,agassiz calls the average temperature #hd1 which1 it seems to us1 is too high4 ,the mean between the temperatures of ,par1 ,manos1 and ,tabatinga is #hj4g4 ,the mineral kingdom is represented only by sand1 clay1 and loam4 ,the solid rock 7except the sandstone already mentioned7 begins above the falls on the tributaries4 ,the precious gems and metals are confined to the still higher lands of ,goyaz1 ,matto ,grosso1 and the slopes of the ,andes4 ,the soil on the ,lower ,amazon is sandy2 on the ,solimoens and ,maraon it is a stiff loam or vegetable mould1 in many places twenty feet deep4 ,both in botany and zoology1 ,south ,america is a natural and strongly-marked division1 quite as distinct from ,north ,america as from the ,old ,world2 and as there are no transverse barriers1 there is a remarkable unity in the character of the vegetation4 ,no spot on the globe contains so much vegetable matter as the ,valley of the ,amazon4 ,from the grassy steppes of ,venezuela to the treeless ,pampas of ,buenos ,ayres1 expands a sea of verdure1 in which we may draw a circle of eleven hundred miles in diameter1 which shall include an ever green1 unbroken forest4 ,there is a most bewildering diversity of grand and beautiful trees--a wild1 unconquered race of vegetable giants1 draped1 festooned1 corded1 matted1 and ribboned with climbing and creeping plants1 woody and succulent1 in endless variety4 ,the exuberance of nature displayed in these million square acres of tangled1 impenetrable forest offers a bar to civilization nearly as great as its sterility in the ,african deserts4 ,a macheta is a necessary predecessor3 the moment you land 7and it is often difficult to get a footing on the bank71 you are confronted by a wall of vegetation4 ,lithe lianas1 starred with flowers1 coil up the stately trees1 and then hang down like strung jewels2 they can be counted only by myriads1 yet they are mere superfluities4 ,the dense dome of green overhead is supported by crowded columns1 often branchless for eighty feet4 ,the reckless competition among both small and great adds to the solemnity and gloom of a tropical forest4 ,individual struggles with individual1 and species with species1 to monopolize the air1 light1 and soil4 ,in the effort to spread their roots1 some of the weaker sort1 unable to find a footing1 climb a powerful neighbor1 and let their roots dangle in the air2 while many a full-grown tree has been lifted up1 as it were1 in the strife1 and now stands on the ends of its stilt-like roots1 so that a man may walk upright between the roots and under the trunk4#afg ,footnote #afg3 ,buttress roots are not peculiar to any one species1 but common to most of the large trees in the crowded forest1 where the lateral growth of the roots is made difficult by the multitude of rivals4 ,the ,paxiuba1 or big-bellied palm1 is a fine example4 ,the mass of the forest on the banks of the great river is composed of palms 7about thirty species#afh71 leguminous or pod-bearing trees1 colossal nut-trees1 broad-leaved ,musace or bananas1 and giant grasses4 ,the most prominent palms are the architectural ,pupunha1 or peach-palm1 with spiny stems1 drooping1 deep green leaves1 and bunches of mealy1 nutritious fruit2 the slender ,assa1 with a graceful head of delicate green plumes2 the ,ubuss1 with mammoth1 undivided fronds2 the stiff1 serrated-leaved ,buss1 and gigantic ,mirit4 ,one of the noblest trees of the forest is the ,massaranduba1 or cow-tree 7,brosimum galactodendron71 often rising one hundred and fifty feet4 ,it is a hard1 fine-grained1 durable timber1 and has a red bark1 and leathery1 fig-like foliage4 ,the milk has the consistency of cream1 and may be used for tea1 coffee1 or custards4 ,it hardens by exposure1 so as to resemble gutta-percha4 ,another interesting tree1 and one which yields the chief article of export1 is the ,caucho1 or ,india-rubber tree#afi 7,siphonia ,brasiliensis71 growing in the lowlands of the ,amazon for eighteen hundred miles above ,par4 ,it has an erect1 tall trunk1 from forty to eighty feet high1 a smooth1 gray bark1 and thick1 glossy leaves4 ,the milk resembles thick1 yellow cream1 and is colored by a dense smoke obtained by burning palm-nuts4 ,it is gathered between ,august and ,december4 ,a man can collect six pounds a day1 though this is rarely done4 ,it is frequently adulterated with sand4 ,the tree belongs to the same apetalous family as our castor-oil and the mandioca2 while the tree which furnishes the caoutchouc of the ,east ,indies and ,africa is a species of ,ficus1 and yields an inferior article to the rubber of ,america4 ,other characteristic trees are the ,mongruba1 one of the few which shed their foliage before the new leaf-buds expand2 the giant ,samama1 or silk-cotton tree 7called huimba in ,peru72 the ,calabash1 or cuieira1 whose gourd-like fruit furnishes the cups used throughout the ,amazon2 the ,itauba1 or stone-wood1 furnishing ship-timber as durable as teak2 the red and white ,cedar1 used for canoes 7not coniferous like the northern evergreen1 but allied to the mahogany72 the ,jacarand1 or rose-wood1 resembling our locust2 ,palo de sangre1 one of the most valuable woods on the river2 ,huacap1 a very common timber2 ,capirona1 used as fuel on the steamers2 and ,tauar1 a heavy1 close-grained wood1 the bark of which splits into thin leaves1 much used in making cigarettes4 ,the ,piassaba1 a palm yielding a fibre extensively manufactured into cables and ropes1 and exported to foreign countries for brushes and brooms1 being singularly elastic1 strong1 and more durable than hemp2 and the ,moira-pinima1 or tortoise-shell wood1 the most beautiful wood in all ,amazonia1 if not in the world1 grow on the ,upper ,rio ,negro4 ,a small willow represents the great catkin family4 ,footnote #afh3 ,von ,martius1 in his great work on the ,brazilian ,palms1 enumerates in all #ehb species4 ,footnote #afi3 ,the ,portuguese and ,brazilians call it seringa1 or syringe1 in which form it is still used extensively1 injections forming a great feature in the popular system of cures4 ,the tree mentioned above yields most of the rubber of commerce1 and is considered distinct from the species in ,guiana1 ,s4 elastica2 while the rubber from the ,upper ,amazon and ,rio ,negro comes from the ,s4 lutea and ,s4 brevifolia4 ,agassiz puts milk-weed in the same family6 ,the valley is as remarkable for the abundance1 variety1 and value of its timber as for any thing else4 ,within an area of half a mile square1 ,agassiz counted one hundred and seventeen different kinds of woods1 many of them eminently fitted1 by their hardness1 tints1 and beautiful grain1 for the finest cabinet-work4 ,enough palo de sangre or moira-pinima is doubtless wasted annually to veneer all the palaces of ,europe4 ,while most of our fruits belong to the rose family1 those of the ,amazon come from the myrtle tribe4 ,the delicious flavor1 for which our fruits are indebted to centuries of cultivation1 is wanting in many of the torrid productions4 ,we prefer the sweetness of ,pomona in temperate climes to her savage beauty in the sunny south4 ,it is a curious fact1 noticed by ,herndon1 that nearly all the valuable fruits of the valley are inclosed in hard shells or acid pulps4 ,they also reach a larger size in advancing westward4 ,the common ,brazil nut is the product of one of the tallest trees in the forest 7,bertholletia excelsa74 ,the fruit is a hard1 round shell1 resembling a common ball1 which contains from twenty to twenty-four nuts4 ,eighteen months are required for the bud to reach maturity4 ,this tree1 says ,humboldt1 offers the most remarkable example of high organic development4 ,akin to it is the ,sapucaya or chickens' nuts 7,lecythis sapucaya71 whose capsule has a natural lid1 and is called monkey's drinking-cup4 ,the nuts1 about a dozen in number1 are of irregular shape and much richer than the preceding4 ,but they do not find their way to market1 because they drop out of the capsule as soon as ripe1 and are devoured by peccaries and monkeys4 ,the most luscious fruit on the ,amazon is the atta of ,santarem4 ,it has the color1 taste1 and size of the chirimoya2 but the rind1 which incloses a rich1 custardly pulp1 frosted with sugar1 is scaled4 ,next in rank are the melting pine-apples of ,par1 and the golden papayas1 fully equal to those on the western coast4 ,this is the original home of the cacao4 ,it grows abundantly in the forests of the upper river1 and particularly on the banks of the ,madeira4 ,the wild nut is smaller but more oily than the cultivated4 ,the ,amazon is destined to supply the world with the bulk of chocolate4 ,the aromatic tonka beans 7,cumar7 used in flavoring snuff1 and the ,brazilian nutmegs 7,puxiri71 inferior to the ,ceylon1 grow on lofty trees on the ,negro and ,lower ,amazon4 ,the ,guaran beans are the seeds of a trailing plant2 from these the ,mauhs prepare the great medicine1 on the ,amazon1 for diarrhoea and intermittent fevers4 ,its active principle1 caffeine1 is more abundant than in any other substance1 amounting to #e4jg per cent42 while black tea contains only #b4ac4 ,coffee1 rice1 tobacco1 and sugar-cane are grown to a limited extent4 ,rio ,negro coffee1 if put into the market1 would probably eclipse that of ,cear1 the best ,brazilian4 ,wild rice grows abundantly on the banks of the rivers and lakes4 ,the cultivated grain is said to yield forty fold4 ,most of the tobacco comes down from the ,maraon and ,madeira4 ,it is put up in slender rolls from three to six feet long1 tapering at each end1 and wound with palm fibre4 ,the sugar-cane is an exotic from ,southeastern ,asia1 but grows well4 ,the first sugar made in the ,new ,world was by the ,dutch in the island of ,st4 ,thomas1 #afaj4 ,farina is the principal farinaceous production of ,brazil4 ,the mandioca or cassava 7,manihot utilissima7 from which it is made is supposed to be indigenous1 though it is not found wild4 ,it does not grow at a higher altitude than #bjjj feet4 ,life and death are blended in the plant1 yet every part is useful4 ,the cattle eat the leaves and stalks1 while the roots are ground into pulp1 which1 when pressed and baked1 forms farina1 the bread of all classes4 ,the juice is a deadly poison3 thirty-five drops were sufficient to kill1 in six minutes1 a negro convicted of murder2 but it deposits a fine sediment of pure starch that is the well-known tapioca2 and the juice1 when fermented and boiled1 forms a drink4 ,on the upper waters grow the celebrated coca1 a shrub with small1 light-green leaves1 having a bitter1 aromatic taste4 ,the powdered leaves1 mixed with lime1 form ypad4 ,this is to ,peruvians what opium is to the ,turk1 betel to the ,malay1 and tobacco to the ,yankee4 ,thirty million pounds are annually consumed in ,south ,america4 ,it is not1 however1 an opiate1 but a powerful stimulant4 ,with it the ,indian will perform prodigies of labor1 traveling days without fatigue or food4 ,von ,tschudi considers its moderate consumption wholesome1 and instances the fact that one coca-chewer attained the good old age of one hundred and thirty years2 but when used to excess it leads to idiocy4 ,the signs of intemperance are an uncertain step1 sallow complexion1 black-rimmed1 deeply-sunken eyes1 trembling lips1 incoherent speech1 and stolid apathy4 ,coca played an important part in the religious rights of the ,incas1 and divine honors were paid to it4 ,even to-day the miners of ,peru throw a quid of coca against the hard veins of ore1 affirming that it renders them more easily worked2 and the ,indians sometimes put coca in the mouth of the dead to insure them a welcome in the other world4 ,the alkaloid cocane was discovered by ,whler4 ,flowers are nearly confined to the edges of the dense forest1 the banks of the rivers and lagunes4 ,there are a greater number of species under the equator1 but we have brighter colors in the temperate zone4 ,there is grandeur and sublimity in the tropical forest 7wrote ,wallace1 after four years of observation71 but little of beauty or brilliancy of color4 ,perhaps the finest example of inflorescence in the world is seen in the ,victoria ,regia1 the magnificent water-lily discovered by ,schmberg in #ahcg4 ,it inhabits the tranquil waters of the shallow lakes which border the ,amazon4 ,the leaves are from fifteen to eighteen feet in circumference1 and will bear up a child twelve years old2 the upper part is dark1 glossy green1 the under side violet or crimson4 ,the flowers are a foot in diameter1 at first pure white1 passing1 in twenty-four hours1 through successive hues from rose to bright red4 ,this queen of water-plants was dedicated to the ,queen whose empire is never at once shrouded in night4 ,illustration3 ,coca-plant4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,life within the ,great ,river4--,fishes4--,alligators4--,turtle s4--,porpoises and ,manats4 ,the ,amazon is a crowded aquarium1 holding representatives of every zoological class--infusoria1 hydras1 fresh-water shells 7chiefly ,ampullaria1 ,melania1 and ,unios71 aquatic beetles 7belonging mostly to new genera71 fishes1 reptiles1 water birds1 and cetaceans4 ,the abundance and variety of fishes are extraordinary2 so also are the species4 ,this great river is a peculiar ichthyic province1 and each part has its characteristics4 ,according to ,agassiz1 the whole river1 as well as its tributaries1 is broken up into numerous distinct fauna4#agj ,the piraruc1 or redfish 7the ,sudis gigas of science71 is at once the largest1 most common1 and most useful fish4 ,the ,peruvian ,indians call it payshi4 ,it is a powerful fish1 often measuring eight feet in length and five in girth1 clad in an ornamental coat-of-mail1 its large scales being margined with bright red4 ,it ranges from ,peru to ,par4 ,it is usually taken by the arrow or spear4 ,salted and dried1 the meat will keep for a year1 and forms1 with farina1 the staple food on the ,amazon4 ,the hard1 rough tongue is used as a grater4 ,other fishes most frequently seen are the prettily-spotted catfish1 ,pescada1 ,piranha1 ,acar1 which carries its young in its mouth1 and a long1 slender needle-fish4 ,there are ganoids in the river1 but no sturgeons proper4 ,pickerel1 perch1 and trout are also wanting4 ,the sting-ray represents the shark family4 ,as a whole1 the fishes of the ,amazon have a marine character peculiarly their own4 ,footnote #agj3 ,we await the ,professor's examination of his more than #hj1jjj specimens before we give the number of new species4 ,the reptilian inhabitants of this inland sea are introduced by numerous batrachians1 water-snakes 7,heliops71 and anacondas4 ,but alligators bear the palm for ugliness1 size1 and strength4 ,in summer the main river swarms with them2 in the wet season they retreat to the interior lakes and flooded forests4 ,it was for this reason that we did not see an alligator on the ,napo4 ,at low water they are found above the entrance of the ,curaray4 ,about ,obidos1 where many of the pools dry up in the fine months1 the alligator buries itself in the mud1 and sleeps till the rainy season returns4 ,it is scarcely exaggerating to say 7writes ,bates7 that the waters of the ,solimoens are as well stocked with large alligators in the dry season as a ditch in ,england is in summer with tadpoles4 ,there are three or four species in the ,amazon4 ,the largest1 the ,jacar-uass of the natives1 attains a length of twenty feet4 ,the ,jacar-tinga is a smaller kind 7only five feet long when full grown71 and has the long1 slender muzzle of the extinct teleosaurus4 ,the ,south ,american alligators are smaller than the crocodiles of the ,nile or ,ganges1 and they are also inferior in rank4 ,the head of the ,jacar-uass 7the ordinary species7 is broad1 while the gavial of ,india has a long1 narrow muzzle1 and that of the ,egyptian lizard is oblong4 ,the dentition differs3 while in the ,old ,world saurian the teeth interlock1 so that the two jaws are brought close together1 the teeth in the upper jaw of the ,amazonian cayman pass by the lower series outside of them4 ,the latter has therefore much less power4 ,it has a ventral cuirass as well as dorsal1 and it is web-footed1 while the crocodile has the toes free--another mark of inferiority4 ,sluggish on land1 the alligator is very agile in its element4 ,it never attacks man when on his guard1 but it is cunning enough to know when it may do this with safety4 ,it lays its eggs 7about twenty7 some distance from the river bank1 covering them with leaves and sticks4 ,they are larger than those of ,guayaquil1 or about four inches long1 of an elliptical shape1 with a rough1 calcareous shell4 ,negro venders sell them cooked in the streets of ,par4 ,turtles are1 perhaps1 the most important product of the ,amazon1 not excepting the piraruc4 ,the largest and most abundant species is the ,tortaruga grande4 ,it measures1 when full grown1 nearly three feet in length and two in breadth1 and has an oval1 smooth1 dark-colored shell4 ,every house has a little pond 7called currl7 in the back yard to hold a stock of turtles through the wet season4 ,it furnishes the best meat on the ,upper ,amazon4 ,we found it very tender1 palatable1 and wholesome2 but ,bates1 who was obliged to live on it for years1 says it is very cloying4 ,every part of the creature is turned to account4 ,the entrails are made into soup2 sausages are made of the stomach2 steaks are cut from the breast2 and the rest is roasted in the shell4#aga ,the turtle lays its eggs 7generally between midnight and dawn7 on the central and highest part of the plaias1 or about a hundred feet from the shore4 ,the ,indians say it will lay only where itself was hatched out4 ,with its hind flippers it digs a hole two or three feet deep1 and deposits from eighty to one hundred and sixty eggs 7,gibbon says from one hundred and fifty to two hundred74 ,these are covered with sand1 and the next comer makes another deposit on the top1 and so on until the pit is full4 ,egg-laying comes earlier on the ,amazon than on the ,napo1 taking place in ,august and ,september4 ,the tracaj1 a smaller species1 lays in ,july and ,august2 its eggs are smaller and oval1 but richer than those of the great turtles4 ,footnote #aga3 ,the natives have this notion about the land-tortoise1 that by throwing it three times over the head1 the liver 7the best part7 will be enlarged4 ,the mammoth tortoise of the ,galpagos lays an egg very similar in size and shape to that of the ,tortaruga1 but a month later1 or in ,october4 ,the hunting of turtle eggs is a great business on the ,amazon4 ,they are used chiefly in manufacturing oil 7mantca7 for illumination4 ,thrown into a canoe1 they are broken and beaten up by human feet2 water is then poured in1 and the floating oil is skimmed off1 purified over the fire in copper kettles1 and finally put up in three-gallon earthen jars for the market4 ,the turtles are caught for the table as they return to the river after laying their eggs4 ,to secure them1 it suffices to turn them over on their backs4 ,the turtles certainly have a hard time of it4 ,the alligators and large fishes swallow the young ones by hundreds2 jaguars pounce upon the full-grown specimens as they crawl over the plaias1 and vultures and ibises attend the feast4 ,but man is their most formidable foe4 ,the destruction of turtle life is incredible4 ,it is calculated that fifty millions of eggs are annually destroyed4 ,thousands of those that escape capture in the egg period are collected as soon as hatched and devoured1 the remains of yolk in their entrails being considered a great delicacy4 ,an unknown number of full-grown turtles are eaten by the natives on the banks of the ,maraon and ,solimoens and their tributaries1 while every steamer1 schooner1 and little craft that descends the ,amazon is laden with turtles for the tables of ,manos1 ,santarem1 and ,par4 ,when we consider1 also1 that all the mature turtles taken are females1 we wonder that the race is not well-nigh extinct4 ,they are1 in fact1 rapidly decreasing in numbers4 ,a large turtle which twenty years ago could be bought for fifty cents1 now commands three dollars4 ,one would suppose that the males1 being unmolested1 would far outnumber the other sex1 but ,bates says they are immensely less numerous than the females4 ,the male turtles1 or ,capitaris1 are distinguishable by their much smaller size1 more circular shape1 and the greater length and thickness of their tails4 ,near the ,tapajos we met a third species1 called ,mat-mat4 ,it has a deeply-keeled carapax1 beautifully bossed1 and a hideous triangular head1 having curious1 lobed1 fleshy appendages1 and nostrils prolonged into a tube4 ,it is supposed to have great virtues as a remedy for rheumatism4 ,but the most noticeable feature of the ,amazonian fauna1 as ,agassiz has remarked1 is the abundance of cetaceans through its whole extent4 ,from the brackish estuary of ,par to the clear1 cool waters at the base of the ,andes1 these clumsy refugees from the ocean may be seen gamboling and blowing as in their native element4 ,four different kinds of porpoises have been seen4 ,a black species lives in the ,bay of ,maraj4 ,in the ,middle ,amazon are two distinct porpoises1 one flesh-colored2#agb and in the upper tributaries is the ,inia ,boliviensis1 resembling1 but specifically different from the sea-dolphin and the soosoo of the ,ganges4 ,it was several years 7says the ,naturalist on the ,amazon7 before ,i could induce a fisherman to harpoon dolphins 7,boutos7 for me as specimens1 for no one ever kills these animals voluntarily2 the superstitious people believe that blindness would result from the use of the oil in lamps4 ,the herbivorous manati 7already mentioned1 ,chap4 ,,xv47 is found throughout the great river4 ,it differs slightly from the ,atlantic species4 ,it rarely measures over twelve feet in length4 ,it is taken by the harpoon or nets of chambiri twine4 ,both ,herndon and ,gibbon mention seals as occurring in the ,peruvian tributaries2 but we saw none1 neither did ,bates1 ,agassiz1 or ,edwards4 ,they probably meant the manati4 ,footnote #agb3 ,dephinus pallidus4 ,bates observed this species at ,villa ,nova2 we saw it at ,coary1 #ejj miles west2 and ,herndon found it in the ,huallaga4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,life around the ,great ,river4--,insects4--,reptiles4--,birds4- -,mammals4 ,the forest of the ,amazon is less full of life than the river4 ,beasts1 birds1 and reptiles are exceedingly scarce2 still there is1 in fact1 a great variety1 but they are widely scattered and very shy4 ,in the animal1 as in the vegetable kingdom1 diversity is the law2 there is a great paucity of individuals compared with the species4#agc ,insects are rare in the dense forest2 they are almost confined to the more open country along the banks of the rivers4 ,ants are perhaps the most numerous4 ,there is one species over an inch long4 ,but the most prominent1 by their immense numbers1 are the dreaded sabas4 ,well-beaten paths branch off in every direction through the forest1 on which broad columns may be seen marching to and fro1 each bearing vertically a circular piece of leaf4 ,unfortunately they prefer cultivated trees1 especially the coffee and orange4 ,they are also given to plundering provisions2 in a single night they will carry off bushels of farina4 ,they are of a light red color1 with powerful jaws4 ,in every formicarium or ant colony there are three sets of individuals--males1 females1 and workers2 but the sabas have the singularity of possessing three classes of workers4 ,the light-colored mounds often met in the forest1 sometimes measuring forty feet in diameter by two feet in height1 are the domes which overlie the entrances to the vast subterranean galleries of the saba ants4 ,these ants are eaten by the ,rio ,negro ,indians1 and esteemed a luxury2 while the ,tapajos tribes use them to season their mandioca sauce4 ,akin to the vegetable-feeding sabas are the carnivorous ecitons1 or foraging ants1 of which ,bates found ten distinct species4 ,they hunt for prey in large organized armies1 almost every species having its own special manner of marching and hunting4 ,fortunately the ecitons choose the thickest part of the forest4 ,the fire-ant is the great plague on the ,tapajos4 ,it is small1 and of a shiny reddish color2 but its sting is very painful1 and it disputes every fragment of food with the inhabitants4 ,all eatables and hammocks have to be hung by cords smeared with copaiba balsam4 ,footnote #agc3 ,amazonia is divided into four distinct zoological districts3 those of ,ecuador1 ,peru1 ,guiana1 and ,brazil2 the limits being the ,amazon1 ,madeira1 and ,negro4 ,the species found on one side of these rivers are seldom found on the other4 ,the traveler on the ,amazon frequently meets with conical hillocks of compact earth1 from three to five feet high1 from which radiate narrow covered galleries or arcades4 ,the architects of these wonderful structures are the termites1 or white ants1 so called1 though they belong to a higher order of insects1 widely differing from the true ants4 ,the only thing in common is the principle of division of labor4 ,the termite neuters are subdivided into two classes1 soldiers and workers1 both wingless and blind4 ,their great enemy is the ant-eater2 but it is a singular fact1 noticed by ,bates1 that the soldiers only attach themselves to the long worm-like tongue of this animal1 so that the workers1 on whom the prosperity of the termitarum depends1 are saved by the self-sacrifice of the fighting caste4 ,the office of the termites in the tropics seems to be to hasten the decomposition of decaying vegetation4 ,but they also work their way into houses1 trunks1 wardrobes1 and libraries4 ,it is principally owing to their destructiveness 7wrote ,humboldt7 that it is so rare to find papers in tropical ,america older than fifty or sixty years4 ,dragon-flies are conspicuous specimens of insect life on the ,amazon4 ,the largest and most brilliant kinds are found by the shady brooks and creeks in the recesses of the forest1 some of them with green or crimson bodies seven inches long1 and their elegant lace-like wings tipped with white or yellow4 ,still more noticeable are the butterflies4 ,there is a vast number of genera and species1 and great beauty of dress1 unequaled in the temperate zone4 ,some idea of the diversity is conveyed by the fact mentioned by ,mr4 ,bates that about #gjj species are found within an hour's walk of ,par1 and #eej at ,ega2 while the total number found in the ,british ,islands does not exceed #ff1 and the whole of ,europe supports only #cjj4 ,after a shower in the dry season the butterflies appear in fluttering clouds 7for they live in societies71 white1 yellow1 red1 green1 purple1 black1 and blue1 many of them bordered with metallic lines and spots of a silvery or golden lustre4 ,the sulphur-yellow and orange-colored kinds predominate4 ,a colossal morpho1 seven and a half inches in expanse1 and visible a quarter of a mile off1 frequents the shady glades2 splendid swallow-tailed papilios1 green1 rose1 or velvety-black1 are seen only in the thickets2 while the ,hetaira esmeralda1 with transparent wings1 having one spot of a violet hue1 as it flies over the dead leaves in the dense forest looks like a wandering petal of a flower4 ,very abundant is the ,heliconius1 which plays such an important figure1 by its variations1 in ,wallace's theory of the origin of species4 ,on the ,maraon we found ,callidryas eubule1 a yellow butterfly common in ,florida4 ,the most brilliant butterflies are found on the ,middle ,amazon1 out of reach of the strong trade winds4 ,the males far outnumber the other sex1 are more richly colored1 and generally lead a sunshiny life4 ,the females are of dull hues1 and spend their lives in the gloomy shadows of the forest4 ,caterpillars and nocturnal moths are rare4 ,there are no true hive-bees 7,apides7 in ,south ,america1#agd but instead there are about one hundred and fifty species of bees 7mostly social ,moliponas71 smaller than the ,european1 stingless1 and constructing oblong cells4 ,their colonies are much larger than those of the honey-bee4 ,the ,trigona occurs on the ,napo4 ,unlike the ,melipona1 it is not confined to the ,new ,world4 ,a large sooty-black ,bombus represents our humble-bee4 ,shrill cicadas1 blood-thirsty mantucas1 piums1 punkies1 and musquitoes are always associated in the traveler's memory with the glorious river4 ,of the last there are several kinds4 ,the forest musquito belongs to a different species from that of the town1 being much larger and having transparent wings4 ,it is a little cloud that one carries about his person every step on a woodland ramble1 and their hum is so loud that it prevents one hearing well the notes of birds4 ,the town musquito has opaque1 speckled wings1 a less severe sting1 and a silent way of going to work4 ,the inhabitants ought to be thankful the big noisy fellows never come out of the forest 7,bates1 ii41 #chf74 ,there are few musquitoes below ,ega2 above that point a musquito net is indispensable4 ,beetles abound1 particularly in shady places1 and are of all sizes1 from that of a pin's head to several inches in length4 ,the most noticeable are the gigantic ,megalosoma and ,enema1 armed with horns4 ,very few are carnivorous4 ,this is the more remarkable1 observes ,darwin1 when compared to the case of carnivorous quadrupeds1 which are so abundant in hot countries4 ,very few are terrestrial1 even the carnivorous species being found clinging to branches and leaves4 ,in going from the pole to the equator we find that insect life increases in the same proportion as vegetable life4 ,there is not a single beetle on ,melville ,island2 eleven species are found in ,greenland2 in ,england1 #bejj2 in ,brazil1 #hjjj4 ,here lives the king of spiders1 the ,mygale ,blondii1 a monstrous hairy fellow1 five inches long1 of a brown color1 with yellowish lines along its stout legs4 ,its abode is a slanting subterranean gallery about two feet in length1 the sides of which are beautifully lined with silk4 ,other spiders barricade the walks in the forest with invisible threads2 some build nests in the trees and attack birds2 others again spin a closely-woven web1 resembling fine muslin1 under the thatched roofs of the houses4 ,footnote #agd3 ,the honey-bee of ,europe was introduced into ,south ,america in #ahde4 ,of land vertebrates1 lizards are the first to attract the attention of the traveler on the equator4 ,great in number and variety1 they are met every where--crawling up the walls of buildings1 scampering over the hot1 dusty roads1 gliding through the forest4 ,they stand up on their legs1 carry their tails cocked up in the air1 and run with the activity of a warm-blooded animal4 ,it is almost impossible to catch them4 ,some of them are far from being the unpleasant-looking animals many people imagine2 but in their coats of many colors1 green1 gray1 brown1 and yellow1 they may be pronounced beautiful4 ,others1 however1 have a repulsive aspect1 and are a yard in length4 ,the iguana1 peculiar to the ,new ,world tropics1 is covered with minute green scales handed with brown 7though it changes its color like the chameleon71 and has a serrated back and gular pouch4 ,it grows to the length of five feet1 and is arboreal4 ,its white flesh1 and its oblong1 oily eggs1 arc considered great delicacies4 ,we heard of a lady who kept one as a pet4 ,frogs and toads1 the chief musicians in the ,amazonian forest1 are of all sizes1 from an inch to a foot in diameter4 ,the ,bufo gigas is of a dull gray color1 and is covered with warts4 ,tree-frogs 7,hyla7 are very abundant2 they do not occur on the ,andes or on the ,pacific coast4 ,their quack-quack1 drum-drum1 hoo-hoo1 is one of our pleasant memories of ,south ,america4 ,of snakes there is no lack2 and yet they are not so numerous as imagination would make them4 ,there are one hundred and fifty species in ,south ,america1 or one half as many1 on the same area1 as in the ,east ,indies4 ,the diabolical family is led by the boa1 while the rear is brought up by the ,amphisbnas1 or double-headed snakes1 which progress equally well with either end forward1 so that it is difficult to make head or tail of them4 ,the majority are harmless4 ,the deadly corl is found on both sides of the ,andes1 and wherever there is a cacao plantation4 ,one of the most beautiful specimens of the venomous kind is a new species 7,elaps imperator1 ,cope71 which we discovered on the ,maraon4 ,it has a slender body more than two feet in length1 with black and red bands margined with yellow1 and a black and yellow head1 with permanently erect fangs4 ,illustration3 ,iguana4 ,we have already mentioned the most common birds4 ,probably1 says ,wallace1 no country in the world contains a greater variety of birds than the ,amazonian ,valley4 ,but the number does not equal the expectations of the traveler2 he may ramble a whole day without meeting one4 ,the rarity1 however1 is more apparent than real2 we forget1 for the moment1 the vastness of their dwelling-place4 ,the birds of the country1 moreover1 are gregarious1 so that a locality may be deserted and silent at one time and swarming with them at another4 ,parrots and toucans are the most characteristic groups4 ,to the former belong true parrots1 parroquets1 and macaws4 ,the first are rarely seen walking1 but are rapid flyers and expert climbers4 ,on the trees they are social as monkeys1 but in flight they always go in pairs4 ,the parroquets go in flocks4 ,the ,hyacinthine macaw 7the ,araruna of the natives7 is one of the finest and rarest species of the parrot family4 ,it is found only on the south side of the ,amazon4 ,the macaw was considered sacred by the ,maya ,indians of ,yucatan1 and dedicated to the sun4 ,the ,quichuans call it guacamayo1 guaca meaning sacred4 ,of toucans there are many species2 the largest is the toco1 with a beak shaped like a banana2 the most beautiful are the curb-crested1 or ,beauharnais toucans1 and the ,p4 flavirostris1 whose breast is adorned with broad belts of red1 crimson1 and black4 ,wherefore such a beak8 every naturalist has asked2 but the toucan still wags his head1 as much as to say1 you can not tell4 ,there must be some other reason than adaptation4 ,birds of the same habits are found beside it--the ibis1 pigeon1 spoonbill1 and toucan are seen feeding together4 ,how astonishing are the freaks and fancies of ,nature6 7wrote the funny ,sidney ,smith74 ,to what purpose1 we say1 is a bird placed in the woods of ,cayenne with a bill a yard long1 making a noise like a puppy-dog1 and laying eggs in hollow trees8 ,the toucan1 to be sure1 might retort1 to what purpose are certain foolish1 prating members of ,parliament created1 pestering the ,house of ,commons with their ignorance and folly1 and impeding the business of the country8 ,there is no end to such questions2 so we will not enter into the metaphysics of the toucan4 ,illustration3 ,toucans4 ,on the flooded islands of the ,negro and ,upper ,amazon is found the rare and curious umbrella bird1 black as a crow1 and decorated with a crest of hairy plumes and a long lobe suspended from the neck1 covered with glossy blue feathers4 ,this latter appendage is connected with the vocal organs1 and assists the bird in producing its deep1 loud1 and lengthy fluty note4 ,there are three species4 ,another rare bird is the ,uruponga1 or ,campanro1 in ,english the tolling-bell bird1 found only on the borders of ,guiana4 ,it is of the size of our jay1 of a pure white color1 with a black tubercle on the upper side of the bill4 ,orpheus himself 7says ,waterton7 would drop his lute to listen to him1 so sweet1 so novel1 and romantic is the toll of the pretty1 snow-white ,campanro4 ,the ,campanro may be heard three miles6 7echoes ,sidney ,smith74 ,this single little bird being more powerful than the belfry of a cathedral ringing for a new dean6 ,it is impossible to contradict a gentleman who has been in the forests of ,cayenne1 but we are determined1 as soon as a ,campanro is brought to ,england1 to make him toll in a public place1 and have the distance measured4#age ,but the most remarkable songster of the ,amazonian forest is the ,realejo1 or organ-bird4 ,its notes are as musical as the flageolet4 ,it is the only songster1 says ,bates1 which makes any impression on the natives4 ,besides those are the ,jacamars1 peculiar to equatorial ,america1 stupid1 but of the most beautiful golden1 bronze1 and steel colors2 sulky ,trogons1 with glossy green backs and rose-colored breasts2 long-toed ,jaanas1 half wader1 half fowl2 the rich1 velvety purple and black ,rhamphocoelus ,jacapa1 having an immense range from ,archidona to ,par2 the gallinaceous yet arboreal ,ciganas2 scarlet ibises1 smaller1 but more beautiful than their sacred cousins of the ,nile2 stilted flamingoes1 whose awkwardness is atoned for by their brilliant red plumage2 glossy black ,mutums1 or curassow turkeys2 ghostly storks1 white egrets1 ash-colored herons1 black ducks1 barbets1 kingfishers1 sandpipers1 gulls1 plovers1 woodpeckers1 oreoles2 tanagers1 essentially a ,south ,american family1 and1 excepting three or four species1 found only east of the ,andes2 wagtails1 finches1 thrushes1 doves1 and hummers4 ,the last1 by western ,indians living sunbeams named1 are few1 and not to be compared with the swarms in the ,andean valleys4 ,the birds of the ,amazon have no uniform time for breeding4 ,the majority1 however1 build their nests between ,september and ,new ,year's1 and rarely lay more than two eggs4 ,footnote #age3 ,review of ,waterton's ,wanderings in ,south ,america4 ,illustration3 ,brazilian ,hummers4 ,illustration3 ,capybara ,amazonia1 like ,australia1 is poor in terrestrial mammals1 and the species are of small size4 ,nearly the only game a hunter can depend upon for food1 besides toucans and macaws1 is peccari4 ,one species of tapir1 to represent the elephants and rhinoceroses of the ,old ,world2 three small species of deer1 taking the places of deer1 antelopes1 buffaloes1 sheep1 and goats of the other continent2 three species of large ,felid2 one peccari1 and a wild dog1 with opossums1 ant-eaters1 armadilloes1 sloths1 squirrels 7the only rodents which approach ours71#agf capybaras1 pacas1 agoutis1 and monkeys1 comprise all the quadrupeds of equatorial ,america4 ,the last two are the most numerous4 ,marsupial rats take the place of the insectivorous mammals4 ,of ant-eaters1 there are at least four distinct species2 but they are scattered sparingly1 and are seldom found on the low flooded lands4 ,four or five species of armadillo inhabit the valley4 ,these little nocturnal burrowing edentates are the puny representatives of the gigantic ,glyptodon of ,pleistocene times1 and the sloths are the dwindling shadows of the lordly ,megatherium4 ,there are two species of three-toed sloths--one inhabiting the swampy lowlands1 the other confined to the terra-firma land4 ,they lead a lonely life1 never in groups1 harmless and frugal as a hermit4 ,they have four stomachs1 but not the long intestines of ruminating animals4 ,they feed chiefly on the leaves of the trumpet-tree 7,cecropia71 resembling our horse-chestnut4 ,the natives1 both ,indian and ,brazilian1 hold the common opinion that the sloth is the type of laziness4 ,the capybara or ronsoco1 the largest of living rodents1 is quite common on the river side4 ,it is gregarious and amphibious1 and resembles a mammoth guinea-pig4 ,pacas and agoutis are most abundant in the lowlands1 and are nocturnal4 ,these semi-hoofed rodents1 like the ,toxodon of old1 approach the ,pachyderms4 ,the tapir1 or gran-bestia1 as it is called1 is a characteristic quadruped of ,south ,america4 ,it is a clumsy-looking animal1 with a tough hide of an iron-gray color1 covered with a coat of short coarse hair4 ,its flesh is dry1 but very palatable4 ,it has a less powerful proboscis than the ,malay species4 ,m4 ,roulin distinguishes another species from the mountains1 which more nearly resembles the ,asiatic4 ,the tapir1 like the condor1 for an unknown reason1 is not found north of #h ,n41 though it wanders as far south as #dj4 ,we met but one species of peccari1 the white-lipped 7,d4 labiatus74 ,it is much larger than the ,mexican hog1 and1 too thick-headed to understand danger1 is a formidable antagonist4 ,the raposa is seen only on the ,middle ,amazon1 and very rarely there4 ,it has a long tapering muzzle1 small ears1 bushy tail1 and grayish hair4 ,it takes to the water1 for the one we saw at ,tabatinga was caught while crossing the ,amazon4 ,fawn-colored pumas1 spotted jaguars1 black tigers1 tiger-cats--all members of the graceful feline family--inhabit all parts of the valley1 but are seldom seen4 ,the puma1 or panther1 is more common on the ,pacific side of the ,andes4 ,the jaguar#agg is the fiercest and most powerful animal in ,south ,america4 ,it is marked like the leopard--roses of black spots on a yellowish ground2 but they are angular instead of rounded1 and have a central dot4 ,there are also several black streaks across the breast1 which easily distinguish it from its transatlantic representative4 ,it is also longer than the leopard2 indeed1 ,humboldt says he saw a jaguar whose length surpassed that of any of the tigers of ,india which he had seen in the collections of ,europe4 ,the jaguar frequents the borders of the rivers and lagunes1 and its common prey is the capybara4 ,it fears the peccari4 ,the night air is alive with bats of many species1 the most prominent one being the ,dysopes perotis1 which measures two feet from tip to tip of the wings4 ,if these ,cheiropters are as impish as they look1 and as blood-thirsty as some travelers report1 it is singular that ,bates and ,waterton1 though residing for years in the country1 and ourselves1 though sleeping for months unprotected1 were unmolested4 ,footnote #agf3 ,large rats abound on the ,marnaon1 but they are not ,american4 ,footnote #agg3 ,the ,tupi word for dog is yaguara1 and for wolf1 yagua-men1 or old dog4 ,illustration3 ,jaguar4 ,about forty species of monkeys1 or one half of the ,new ,world forms1 inhabit the ,valley of the ,amazon4 ,wallace1 in a residence of four years1 saw twenty-one species--seven with prehensile and fourteen with non-prehensile tails4 ,they all differ from the apes of the other hemisphere4 ,while those of ,africa and ,asia 7,europe has only one7 have opposable thumbs on the fore feet as well as hind1 uniformly ten molar teeth in each jaw1 as in man1 and generally cheek-pouches and naked collosities1 the ,american monkeys arc destitute of the two latter characteristics4 ,none of them are terrestrial1 like the baboon2 all 7save the marmosets7 have twenty-four molars2 the thumbs of the fore-hands are not habitually opposed to the fingers 7one genus1 ,ateles1 the imperfect1 is thumbless altogether72 the nostrils open on the sides of the nose instead of beneath it1 as in the gorilla1 and the majority have long prehensile tails4 ,they are inferior in rank to the anthropoids of the ,old ,world1 though superior to the lemurs of ,madagascar4 ,they are usually grouped in two families--,marmosets and ,cebidre4 ,the former are restless1 timid1 squirrel-like lilliputs 7one species is only seven inches long71 with tails not prehensile--in the case of the scarlet-faced1 nearly wanting4 ,the ,barigudos1 or gluttons 7,lagothrix71 are the largest of ,american monkeys1 but are not so tall as the ,coaitas4 ,they are found west of ,manos4 ,they have more human features than the other monkeys1 and1 with their woolly gray fur1 resemble an old negro4 ,there are three kinds of howlers 7,mycetes7--the red or mono-colorado of ,humboldt1 the black1 and the ,m4 beelzebub1 found only near ,par4 ,the forest is full of these surly1 untamable guaribas1 as the natives call them4 ,they are gifted with a voice of tremendous power and volume1 with which they make night and day hideous4 ,they represent the baboons of the ,old ,world in disposition and facial angle 7#cj71 and the gibbons in their yells and gregarious habits4#agh ,the ,sapajous 7,cebus7 are distributed throughout ,brazil1 and have the reputation of being the most mischievous monkeys in the country4 ,on the west coast of ,south ,america there are at least three or four species of monkeys1 among them a black howler and a ,cebus capucinus4 ,the ,coitas1 or spider-monkeys1 are the highest of ,american quadrumana4 ,they are slender-legged1 sluggish1 and thumbless1 with a most perfectly prehensile tail1 terminating in a naked palm1 which answers for a fifth hand4 ,the ,indians say they walk under the limbs like the sloth4 ,they are the most common pets in ,brazil1 but they refuse to breed in captivity4 ,both ,coitas and ,barigudos are much persecuted for their flesh1 which is highly esteemed by the ,indians4 ,footnote #agh3 ,rtimeyer has found a fossil howler in the ,swiss ,jura--middle cocene4 ,mr4 ,bates has called our attention to the arboreal character of a large share of the animals in the ,amazonian forest4 ,all the monkeys and bats are climbers1 and live in the trees4 ,nearly all the carnivores are feline1 and are therefore tree-mounters1 though they lead a terrestrial life4 ,the plantigrade ,cercoleptes has a long tail1 and is entirely arboreal4 ,of the edentates1 the sloth can do nothing on the ground4 ,the gallinaceous birds1 as the cigana and curassow--the pheasant and turkey of the ,amazon--perch on the trees1 while the great number of arboreal frogs and beetles is an additional proof of the adaptation of the fauna to a forest region4 ,even the epiphytous plants sitting on the branches suggest this arboreal feature in animal life4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,life around the ,great ,river4--,origin of the ,red ,man4--,general ,characteristics of the ,amazonian ,indians4--,their ,languages1 ,costumes1 and ,habitations4--,principal ,tribes4--,mixed ,breeds4--,brazilians and ,brazil4 ,we come now to the genus ,homo4 ,man makes a very insignificant figure in the vast solitudes of the ,amazon4 ,between ,manos and ,par1 the most densely-peopled part of the valley1 there is only one man to every four square miles2 and the native race takes a low place in the scale of humanity4 ,as the western continent is geologically more primitive than the eastern1 and as the brute creation is also inferior in rank1 so the ,american man1 in point of progress1 seems to stand in the rear of the ,old ,world races4 ,both the geology and zoology of the continent were arrested in their development4 ,vegetable life alone has been favored4 ,the aboriginal ,american 7wrote ,von ,martius7 is at once in the incapacity of infancy and unpliancy of old age2 he unites the opposite poles of intellectual life4#agi ,footnote #agi3 ,i think ,i discover in the ,americans 7said ,humboldt7 the descendants of a rare which1 early separated from the rest of mankind1 has followed up for a series of years a peculiar road in the unfolding of its intellectual faculties and its tendency toward civilization4 ,the ,south ,american ,indian seems to have a natural aptitude for the arts of civilized life not found in the red men of our continent4 ,we will not touch the debatable ground of the red man's origin1 nor inquire whether he is the last remains of a people once high in civilization4 ,but we are tempted to express the full belief that tropical ,america is not his centre of creation4 ,he is not the true child of the tropics2 and he lives as a stranger1 far less fitted for its climate than the ,negro or ,caucasian4 ,yet a little while1 and the race will be as extinct as the ,dodo4 ,he has not the supple organization of the ,european1 enabling him to accommodate himself to diverse conditions4 ,among the ,andean tribes there are seldom over five children1 generally but one1 in a family2 and ,bates1 speaking of ,brazilian ,indians1 says their fecundity is of a low degree1 and it is very rare to find a family having so many as four children4#ahj ,footnote #ahj3 ,we do not infer1 however1 from this fact alone1 that the race is exotic1 for the ,negroes of ,central ,africa multiply very slowly4 ,while it is probable that ,mexico was peopled from the north1 it is very certain that the ,tupi and ,guarani1 the long-headed hordes that occupied eastern ,south ,america1 came up from the south1 moving from the ,paraguay to the banks of the ,orinoco4 ,from the ,tupi nation 7perhaps a branch of the ,guarani7 sprung the multitudinous tribes now dwelling in the vast valley of the ,amazon4 ,in such a country--unbroken by a mountain1 uniform in climate--we need not look for great diversity4 ,the general characters are these3 skin of a brown color1 with yellowish tinge1 often nearly the tint of mahogany2 thick1 straight1 black hair2 black1 horizontal eyes2 low forehead1 somewhat compensated by its breadth2 beardless2 of the middle height1 but thick-set2 broad1 muscular chest2 small hands and feet2 incurious2 unambitious2 impassive2 undemonstrative2 with a dull imagination and little superstition2 with no definite idea of a ,supreme ,being1 few tribes having a name for ,god1 though one for the ,demon2 with no belief in a future state2 and1 excepting civility1 with virtues all negative4 ,the semi-civilized along the ,lower ,amazon1 called ,tupuyos1 seem to have lost 7in the language of ,wallace7 the good qualities of savage life1 and gained only the vices of civilization4 ,there are several hundred different tribes in ,amazonia1 each having a different language2 even the scattered members of the same tribe can not understand each other4#aha ,this segregation of dialects is due in great part to the inflexibility of ,indian character1 and his isolated and narrow round of thought and life4 ,when and where the ,babel existed1 whence the many branches of the great ,tupi family separated1 we know not4 ,we only know that though different in words1 these languages have the same grammatical construction4 ,in more than one respect the polyglot ,american is antipodal to the ,chinese4 ,the language of the former is richest in words1 that of the latter the poorest4 ,the preposition follows the noun1 and the verb ends the sentence4 ,ancient ,tupi is the basis of the ,lingoa ,geral1 the inter-tribal tongue on the ,middle ,amazon4 ,the semi-civilized ,ticunas1 ,mundurucus1 etc41 have one costume--the men in trowsers and white cotton shirts1 the women in calico petticoats1 with short1 loose chemises1 and their hair held in a knot on the top of the head by a comb1 usually of foreign make1 but sometimes made of bamboo splinters4 ,the wild tribes north and south go nearly or quite nude1 while those on the western tributaries wear cotton or bark togas or ponchos4 ,the habitations are generally a frame-work of poles1 thatched with palm-leaves2 the walls sometimes latticed and plastered with mud1 and the furniture chiefly hammocks and earthen vessels4 ,illustration3 ,native ,comb4 ,footnote #aha3 ,authors compute in ,south ,america from #bhj to #gjj languages 7,abb ,royo said #bjjj71 of which four fifths are composed of idioms radically distinct4 ,the ,mundurucus are the most numerous and warlike tribe in ,amazonia4 ,they inhabit both banks of the ,tapajos1 and can muster1 it is said1 #bjjj fighting men4 ,they are friendly to the whites1 and industrious1 selling to traders large quantities of farina1 sarsaparilla1 rubber1 and tonka beans4 ,their houses are conical or quadrangular huts1 sometimes open sheds1 and generally contain many families4 ,according to ,wallace1 the ,mundurucus are the only perfectly tattooed nation in ,south ,america4 ,it takes at least ten years to complete the tattooing of the whole person4 ,the skin is pricked with spines1 and then the soot from burning pitch rubbed in4 ,their neighbors1 the ,parrautes1 are intractable1 wandering savages1 roaming through the forest and sleeping in hammocks slung to the trees4 ,they have delicately-formed hands and feet1 an oval face1 and glistening black eyes4 ,on the west side of the ,tapajos1 near ,villa ,nova1 are the ,mauhs1 an agricultural tribe1 well formed1 and of a mild disposition4 ,on the ,lower ,madeira are the houseless1 formidable ,arras1 who paint their chins red with achote 7anatto71 and usually have a black tattooed streak on each side of the face4 ,they have long made the navigation of the great tributary hazardous4 ,above them dwell the ,parentintns1 light colored and finely featured1 but nude and savage4 ,in the labyrinth of lakes and channels at the mouth of the ,madeira live the lazy1 brutal ,mras1 the most degraded tribe on the ,amazon4 ,they have a darker skin than their neighbors1 an extraordinary breadth of chest1 muscular arms1 short legs1 protuberant abdomens1 a thin beard1 and a bold1 restless expression4 ,they pierce the lips1 and wear peccari tusks in them in time of war4 ,the ,indians on the ,purus live generally on the communal principle1 and are unwarlike and indolent4 ,the ,puru-purs bury in sandy beaches1 go naked1 and have one wife4 ,on the great northwest tributary of the ,rio ,negro1 the ,uacaiari1 there are numerous tribes1 collectively known as the ,uaups4 ,they have permanent abodes1 in shape a parallelogram1 with a semicircle at one end1 and of a size to contain several families1 sometimes a whole tribe4 ,one of them1 ,wallace informs us1 was #aae feet long by #ge broad1 and about #cj high4 ,the walls are bullet-proof4 ,partitions of palm-leaves divide it into apartments for families1 the chief occupying the semicircular end4 ,the men alone wear clothes and ornaments1 but both sexes paint their bodies with red1 black1 and yellow colors in regular patterns4 ,the men have a little beard1 which they pull out1 as also the eyebrows1 and allow the hair to grow unshorn1 tying it behind with a cord and wearing a comb2 while the women cut theirs and wear no comb4 ,they are an agricultural people--peaceable1 ingenious1 apathetic1 diffident1 and bashful4 ,the ,catauishs inhabit the banks of the ,teff4 ,they perforate the lips1 and wear rows of sticks in the holes4 ,at the mouth of the ,juru are the uncivilized1 but tall1 noble-looking ,maraus4 ,they pierce the ears and lips1 and insert sticks4 ,they live in separate families1 and have no common chief4 ,above them live the treacherous ,araus4#ahb ,on the opposite side of the ,amazon are the nearly extinct ,passs and ,jurs1 the finest tribes in central ,south ,america4 ,they are peaceable and industrious1 and have always been friendly to the whites4 ,the ,passs are a slenderly-built1 light-colored1 dignified1 superior race1 distinguished by a large square tattooed patch in the middle of the face4 ,the ,jurs tattoo in a circle round the mouth4 ,near by are the ,unambeus1 or ,humming-birds1 distinguished by a small blue mark on the upper lip4 ,higher up the ,japur is the large cannibal tribe of ,mirnhas1 living in isolated families2 and on the ,tocantns dwell the low ,caishnas1 who kill their first-born children4 ,along the left bank of the ,amazon1 from ,loreto to ,japur1 are the scattered houses and villages of the ,tucnas4 ,this is an extensive tribe1 leading a settled agricultural life1 each horde having a chief and a medicine-man1 or priest of their superstitions4 ,they are good-natured and ingenious1 excelling most of the other tribes in the manufacture of pottery2 but they are idle and debauched1 naked except in the villages1 and tattooed in numbers of short1 straight lines on the face4 ,the ,marbos1 on the ,javar1 have a dark complexion and a slight beard2 and on the west side of the same river roam the ,majernas--fierce1 hostile1 light colored1 bearded cannibals4 ,in the vicinity of ,pebas dwell the inoffensive ,yaguas4 ,the shape of the head 7but not their vacant expression7 is well represented by ,catlin's portrait of ,black ,hawk1 a ,sauk chief4 ,they are quite free from the encumbrance of dress1 the men wearing a girdle of fibrous bark around the loins1 with bunches looking like a mop hanging down in front and rear1 and similar bunches hung around the neck and arms4 ,the women tie a strip of brown cotton cloth about the hips4 ,they paint the whole body with achote4#ahc ,they sometimes live in communities4 ,one large structure1 with ,gothic roof1 is used in common2 on the inside of which1 around the walls1 are built family sleeping-rooms4 ,the ,yaguas are given to drinking and dancing4 ,they are said to bury their dead inside the house of the deceased1 and then set fire to it2 but this conflicts with their communal life4 ,perhaps1 with the other tribes on the ,japur1 ,ia1 and ,napo1 they are fragments of the great ,omgua nation2 but the languages have no resemblance4 ,of the ,oriente ,indians we have already spoken4 ,the tall1 finely-built ,cucmas near ,nauta are shrewd1 hard-working canoe-men1 notorious for the singular desire of acquiring property2 and the ,ymeos1 a white tribe1 wander across the ,maraon as far as ,sarayac4 ,on the ,ucayali are numerous vagabond tribes1 living for the most part in their canoes and temporary huts4 ,they are all lazy and faithless1 using their wives 7polygamy is common7 as slaves4 ,infanticide is practiced1 i4e41 deformed children they put out of the way1 saying they belong to the devil4 ,they worship nothing4 ,they bury their dead in a canoe or earthen jar under the house 7which is vacated forever71 and throw away his property4#ahd ,the common costume is a long gown1 called cushma1 of closely-twilled cotton1 woven by the women4 ,their weapons are two-edged battle-axes of hard wood1 as palo de sangre1 and bows and arrows4 ,the arrows1 five or six feet long1 are made from the flower-stalk of the arrow-grass 7,gynerium71 the head pointed with the flinty chonta and tipped with bone1 often anointed with poison4 ,at the base two rows of feathers are spirally arranged1 showing the ,indian's knowledge of the rifle principle4 ,when they have fixed abodes several families live together under one roof1 with no division separating the women1 as among the ,red ,indians on the ,pastassa4 ,the roof is not over ten feet from the ground4 ,the ,piros are the highest tribe2 they have but one wife4 ,the ,conibos are an agricultural people1 yet cannibals1 stretching from the ,upper ,ucayali to the sources of the ,purus4 ,they are a fair-looking1 athletic people1 and1 like the ,shipibos1 of ten wear a piece of money under the lip4 ,the ,cmpas are the most numerous and warlike4#ahe ,they are little known1 as travelers give them a wide berth4 ,herndon fancied they were the descendants of the ,inca race4 ,they are said to be cannibals1 and from the specimen we saw we should judge them uncommonly sharp4 ,he was averse to telling us any thing about his tribe1 but turned our questions with an equivocal repartee and a laugh4 ,the ,cashbos1 on the ,pachita1 is another cannibal tribe4 ,they are light colored and bearded4 ,the dwarfish1 filthy ,rimos alone of the ,ucayali ,indians tattoo1 though not so perfectly as the ,mundurucus1 using black and blue colors4 ,the other tribes simply paint4 ,it was among these wild ,indians on the ,ucayali that the ,franciscan friars labored so long and zealously1 and with a success far greater and more lasting than that which attended any other missionary enterprise in the valley4 ,footnote #ahb3 ,near the sources of this river ,castlenau locates the ,canamas and ,uginas2 the former dwarfs1 the latter having tails a palm and a half long--a hybrid from an ,indian and ,barigudo monkey4 ,footnote #ahc3 ,query3 ,is the name ,yagua 7blood7 derived from the practice of coloring the body red8 ,footnote #ahd3 ,compare the ancient burial custom on the ,andes3 ,on the decease of the ,inca his palaces are abandoned3 all his treasures1 except those that were employed in his obsequies1 his furniture and apparel1 were suffered to remain as he left them1 and his mansions1 save one1 were closed up forever4--,prescott4 ,footnote #ahe3 ,the women circumcise themselves1 and a man will not marry a woman who is not circumcised4 ,they perform the singular rite upon arriving at the age of puberty1 and have a great feast at the time4 ,other tribes flog and imprison their daughters when they reach womanhood4 ,the remaining inhabitants of the ,amazon are mixed-breeds1 ,negroes1 and whites4 ,the amalgamations form the greater part of the population of the large towns4 ,von ,tschudi gives a catalogue of twenty-three hybrids in ,peru1 and there are undoubtedly as many1 or more1 in ,brazil4 ,the most common are ,mamelucos 7offspring of white with ,indian71 ,mulattoes 7from white and ,negro71 ,cafuzos or ,zambos 7from ,indian and ,negro71 ,curibocos 7from ,cafuzo and ,indian72 and ,xibaros 7from ,cafuzo and ,negro74 ,to define their characteristics correctly1 says ,von ,tschudi1 would be impossible1 for their minds partake of the mixture of their blood4 ,as a general rule1 it may be said that they unite in themselves all the faults without any of the virtues of their progenitors4 ,as men they are generally inferior to the pure races1 and as members of society they are the worst class of citizens4 ,yet they display considerable talent and enterprise1 as in ,quito2 a proof that mental degeneracy does not necessarily result from the mixture of white with ,indian blood4 ,there is1 however1 confesses ,bates1 after ten years' experience1 a considerable number of superlatively lazy1 tricky1 and sensual characters among the half-castes1 both in rural places and in the towns4 ,our observations do not support the opinion that the result of amalgamation is a vague compound1 lacking character and expression4 ,the moral part is perhaps deteriorated2 but in tact and enterprise they often excel their progenitors4 ,negroes are to be seen only on the ,lower ,amazon4 ,by the new act of emancipation1 such as are slaves continue so1 but their children are free4 ,negroes born in the country are called creoles4 ,of the white population1 save a handful of ,english1 ,french1 and ,german1 the ,portuguese immigrants are the most enterprising men on the river4 ,they are willing to work1 trade1 or do any thing to turn a penny4 ,those who acquire a fortune generally retire to ,lisbon4 ,the ,brazilians proper are the descendants of the men who declared themselves free and independent of the mother country4 ,few of them are of pure ,caucasian descent1 for the immigration from ,portugal for many years has been almost exclusively of the male sex4 ,it is generally considered bad taste in ,brazil to boast purity of descent 7,bates1 i1 #bda74 ,brazilians are stiff and formal1 yet courteous and lively1 communicative and hospitable1 well-bred and intelligent4 ,they are not ambitious1 but content to live and enjoy what nature spontaneously offers4 ,the most a ,brazilian wants is farina and coffee1 a hammock and cigar4 ,brazilian ladies have led a dreary life of constraint and silence1 without education or society1 the husband making a nun of his wife after the old bigoted ,portuguese notion2 but during the last twenty years the doors have been opened4 ,brazil attained her independence in #ahbc2 ,brazilian women in #ahdh4 ,here1 in this virgin valley1 where every plant is an evergreen1 possessing the most agreeable and enjoyable climate in the world1 with a brilliant atmosphere1 rivaled only by that of ,quito1 and with no changes of seasons--here we may locate the paradise of the lazy4 ,life may be maintained with as little labor as in the ,garden of ,eden4 ,perhaps no country in the world is capable of yielding so large a return for agriculture4 ,nature1 evidently designing this land as the home of a great nation1 has heaped up her bounties of every description--fruits of richest flavors1 woods of finest grain1 dyes of gayest colors1 and drugs of rarest virtues2 and left no sirocco or earthquake to disturb its people4 ,providence1 moreover1 has given the present emperor a wise and understanding heart2 and the government is a happy blending of imperial dignity and republican freedom4 ,white1 ,negro1 half-caste1 and ,indian may be seen sitting side by side on the jury-bench4 ,certainly the nation can not be a despicable one whose best men are able to work themselves up to positions of trust and influence4 ,god bless the ,empire of the ,south6 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,how to ,travel in ,south ,america4--,routes4--,expenses4--,outfit 4--,precautions4--,dangers4 ,the most vague and incorrect notions prevail in respect to traveling in ,south ,america4 ,the sources of trustworthy and desirable information are very meagre4 ,murray has not yet published a ,hand-book for the ,andes2 routes1 methods1 and expenses of travel are almost unknown2 and the imagination depicts vampires and scorpions1 tigers and anacondas1 wild ,indians and fevers without end1 impassable rivers and inaccessible mountains as the portion of the tourist4 ,the following statements1 which can be depended upon1 may therefore be acceptable to those who contemplate a trip on the ,andes and the ,amazon4 ,the shortest1 cheapest1 most feasible1 and least interesting route across the continent is from ,valparaiso to ,buenos ,ayres4 ,the breadth of ,south ,america is here only eight hundred miles4 ,by railroad from ,valparaiso to the foot of the ,andes2 thence a short mule-ride by the ,uspallata ,pass 7altitude #ab1jjj feet71 under the shadow of ,aconcagua to ,mendoza2 thence by coach across the pampas to the ,rio ,plata4 ,the ,portillo ,pass 7traversed by ,darwin7 is nearer1 but more lofty and dangerous4 ,bolivia offers the difficult path of ,gibbon3 ,from the coast to ,cochabamba2 thence down the ,marmor and ,madeira4 ,there are three routes through ,peru3 ,first1 from ,lima to ,mayro1 by way of ,cerro ,pasco and ,hunaco1 by mule1 ten days2 thence down the ,pachita1 by canoe1 six days2 thence down the ,ucayali to ,iquitos1 by steamer1 six days 7forty-five hours' running time74 ,when the road from ,lima to ,mayro is finished the passage will be shortened four days4 ,no snow is met in crossing the ,andes in summer1 but in winter it is very deep4 ,second 7,herndon's route71 from ,lima to ,tinga ,maria1 by way of ,hunaco1 by mule1 fifteen days1 distance three hundred miles 7the passage is difficult in the rainy season72 thence by canoe fifteen days down the ,huallaga to ,yurimaguas4 ,third and best1 by mule from ,truxillo to ,caximrca1 five days 7note the magnificent ruins72 thence to ,chachapoyas1 seven days 7here are pre-,incarial relics72 thence to ,moyabamba1 eight days2 thence on foot to ,balsa ,puerto1 four days2 thence by canoe to ,yurimaguas1 two days4 ,price of a mule from ,truxillo to ,moyabamba is #cj2 canoe-hire1 #aj4 ,the ,peruvian steamers arrive at ,yurimaguas the fifth of every month and leave the seventh2 reach ,nauta the ninth and ,iquitos the tenth2 leave ,iquitos the sixteenth and arrive at ,tabatinga the nineteenth1 to connect with the ,brazilian line4 ,going up1 they leave ,tabatinga the twenty-first and arrive at ,iquitos the twenty-fourth1 stopping six days4 ,running time from ,yurimaguas to ,tabatinga1 forty-eight hours2 fare1 #gj1 gold2 third-class1 #ag4 ,la ,condamine's route1 via ,loxa and the ,maraon1 is difficult2 and ,md4 ,godin's1 via the ,pastassa1 is perilous on account of rapids and savages4 ,the transit by the ,napo we will now give in detail4 ,six hundred dollars in gold will be amply sufficient for a first-class passage from ,new ,york to ,new ,york across the continent of ,south ,america1 making no allowance for stoppages4 ,for necessary expenses in ,ecuador1 take a draft on ,london1 which will sell to advantage in ,guayaquil2 so will ,mexican dollars4 ,american gold should be taken for expenses on the ,amazon in ,brazil2 at ,par it commands a premium4 ,on the ,maraon it is below par2 ,peruvian gold should therefore be bought at ,guayaquil for that part of the route4 ,also ,french medios1 or quarter francs2 they will be very useful every where on the route1 especially on the ,upper ,amazon1 where change is scarce4 ,fifty dollars' worth will not be too many2 for1 as the ,scotchman said of sixpences1 they are canny little dogs1 and often do the work of shillings4 ,take a passport for ,brazil4 ,leave behind your delicacies and superfluities of clothing2 woolen clothes will be serviceable throughout4 ,a trunk for mountain travel should not exceed #bd by #ae by #ae inches--smaller the better4 ,take a rubber air-pillow and mattress3 there is no bed between ,guayaquil and ,par4 ,a hammock for the ,amazon can be bought on the ,napo4 ,the ,pacific ,mail steamships1 which leave ,new ,york on the first and sixteenth of each month1 connect at ,panama without delay with the ,british ,steam ,navigation line on the ,south ,pacific4 ,fare1 first-class1 from ,new ,york to ,guayaquil1 by way of ,panama and ,paita1 #bae1 gold2 second-class1 #abh4 ,time to ,panama1 eight days2 to ,paita1 four days2 to ,guayaquil1 one day4 ,a coasting steamer leaves ,panama for ,guayaquil the thirteenth of each month4 ,there are two so-called hotels in ,guayaquil4 ,los tres ,mosqueteros1 kept by ,sr4 ,gonzales1 is the best4 ,take a front room 7#a per day71 and board at the ,fonda ,italiana or ,la ,santa ,rosa 7#a per day74 ,here complete your outfit for the mountains3 saddle1 with strong girth and crupper2 saddle-bags1 saddle-cover1 sweat-cloth1 and bridle 7#dj1 paper71 woolen poncho 7#i71 rubber poncho 7#d71 blanket 7#f71 leggins1 native spurs and stirrups1 knife1 fork1 spoon1 tea-pot1 chocolate 7tea1 pure and cheap1 should be purchased at ,panama71 candles1 matches1 soap1 towels1 and tarpaulin for wrapping up baggage4 ,convert your draft into paper1 quantum sufficit for ,guayaquil2 the rest into silver4 ,besides this outer outfit1 an inner one is needed--of patience without stint4 ,you will soon learn that it is one thing to plan and quite another to execute4 ,to get out of the inn is one half of the journey is very appropriately a ,spanish proverb4 ,spaniards do nothing d'appressado 7in a hurry71 but every thing maana 7to-morrow74 ,you will find fondas1 horses1 and roads divided into the bad1 the worse1 and the worst1 and bad is the best4 ,but fret not thyself4 ,serenity of mind1 wrote ,humboldt1 almost the first requisite for an undertaking in inhospitable regions1 passionate love for some class of scientific labor1 and a pure feeling for the enjoyment which nature in her freedom is ready to impart1 are elements which1 when they meet together in an individual1 insure the attainment of valuable results from a great and important journey4 ,the journey to ,quito must be made between ,may and ,november2 in the rainy season the roads are impassable4 ,from ,guayaquil to ,bodegas by ,yankee steamer2 fare1 #b2 time1 eight hours4 ,at ,bodegas hire beasts at the ,consignacion for ,guaranda2 price for riding and cargo beasts1 #d each4 ,no extras for the arriero4 ,a mule will carry two hundred and fifty pounds4 ,buy bread at ,bodegas and ,guaranda4 ,the ,indians on the road are very loth to sell any thing2 buy a fowl1 therefore1 at the first opportunity1 or you will have to live on dirty potato soup1 and be glad of that4 ,at the tambos1 or wayside inns1 you pay only for yerba 7fodder74 ,never unsaddle your beast till it is cool2 an ,indian will even leave the bridle on for a time4 ,to ,guaranda1 three full days4 ,there take mules 7safer than horses in climbing the mountains7 for ,quito2 #f #be1 silver1 per beast2 time1 five days4 ,be sure to leave ,guaranda by #d a4m41 for in the afternoon ,chimborazo is swept by furious winds4 ,also start with a full stomach2 you will get nothing for two days4 ,drink sparingly of the snow-water which dashes down the mountain4 ,you will be tempted to curse ,chuquipoyo2 but thank heaven it is no worse4 ,there are two hotels in ,quito1 ,french and ,american2 the former has the better location1 the latter the better rooms4 ,best front room1 furnished1 half a dollar a day2 cheaper by the month4 ,meals 7two71 twenty-five cents each4 ,the beef is excellent1 but the cuisine--oh1 onions6 ,god sends the meat1 and the evil one cooks4 ,you can hire a professional male cook 7,indian7 for #e a month1 but you can't teach him any thing4 ,fish is not to be had in ,quito4 ,gibbon speaks of having some in ,cuzco1 but does not tell us where it came from4#ahf ,price of best flour1 #c #fj per quintal2 butter1 thirty cents a pound2 beef1 #a an arroba 7twenty-five pounds72 refined sugar1 #c #ej an arroba2 brown sugar 7rapidura71#ahg five cents a pound2 cigars1 from six to sixteen for a dime2 cigarettes1 five cents a hundred4 ,horse hire1 from fifty cents to #a per day4 ,if you are to remain some time1 buy a beast3 a good mule costs #dj2 an ordinary horse1 #ej4 ,the ,post-office ,department is a swindle4 ,if you pay through you will find on your arrival home that your letters have been paid at both ends4 ,ask our consul at ,guayaquil to forward them4 ,footnote #ahf3 ,the ,guayaquil market is well supplied with fish of a fair quality4 ,usually the fish of warm tropical waters are poor1 but the cold ,humboldt current1 which passes along the west coast of ,ecuador1 renders them as edible as those of temperate zones4 ,footnote #ahg3 ,called chancaca in ,peru4 ,in flavor it is very nearly equal to maple-sugar4 ,the necessary preparations for the ,napo journey have been given in a previous chapter 7,chap4 ,,xi74 ,we might add to the list a few cans of preserved milk from ,new ,york1 for you will not see a drop between the ,andes and the ,atlantic4 ,fail not to take plenty of lienzo2 you must have it to pay the ,indians1 and any surplus can be sold to advantage4 ,a bale of thirty varas costs about five dollars4 ,rely not at all on game2 a champion sharpshooter could not live by his rifle4 ,santa ,rosa and ,coca will be represented to you as small ,new ,yorks2 but you will do well if you can buy a chicken between them4 ,from ,quito to ,papallacta1 two days and a half2 riding beast1 #b silver1 and #a #bj for each cargo of three arrobas4 ,at ,papallacta hire ,indians for ,archidona2 each carries three arrobas1 and wants #e silver in advance4 ,you take to your feet2 time1 nine days1 including one day of rest at ,baeza4 ,at ,archidona you take a new set of peons for ,napo at twenty-five cents apiece2 time1 one day4 ,from ,napo down the river to ,santa ,rosa1 one day4 ,you give two and a half varas of lienzo to each ,indian1 and the same for the canoe4 ,from ,santa ,rosa to ,pebas1 on the ,maraon1 fifteen days2 cost of an ,indian1 twenty-five varas2 ditto for a canoe4 ,we advise you to stop at ,coca and rig up a raft or craft of some kind2 we ascribe our uninterrupted good health to the length and breadth of our accommodations4 ,the ,peruvian steamer from the west arrives at ,pebas on the sixteenth of each month2 fare to ,tabatinga1 #ae gold2 time1 four days2 running time1 eleven hours4 ,brazilian steamer leaves ,tabatinga the twentieth of each month2 fare to ,manos1 #dd #dd gold2 time1 five days2 distance1 one thousand miles4 ,from ,manos to ,par1 #ee #ee gold2 time1 six days2 distance1 one thousand miles4 ,the ,brazilian steamers make semi-monthly trips4 ,we found two hotels in ,par--the ,italiana1 dear and poor2 the ,diana1 unpretending but comfortable4 ,charges at the latter for room and board1 #b a day4 ,the best time for traveling on the ,amazon is between ,july and ,december4 ,the ,united ,states and ,brazilian steamships on their homeward voyage call at ,par the seventh of each month2 fare to ,new ,york1 #aej gold 7the same as down the whole length of the ,amazon72 second class1 #ge2 time1 fourteen days2 distance by way of ,st4 ,thomas1 #afaj #adjj miles4 ,steamer for ,rio the ninth of each month2 fare1 #abe2 time1 twelve days2 distance1 #baij miles4 ,fare from ,rio to ,new ,york1 #bjj4 ,fare by sailing vessel from ,par to ,new ,york1 from #ej to #ge2 time1 three weeks4 ,a ,british steamer from ,rio stops at ,par and ,lisbon4 ,a word about health4 ,first1 take one grain of common-sense daily2 do as the natives do1 keep out of the noon-day sun1 and make haste slowly4 ,secondly1 take with you quinine in two-grain pills1 and begin to take them before leaving ,new ,york1 as the great ,african traveler1 ,du ,chaillu1 recommended us4 ,as preventive against the intermittent fevers on the lowlands and rivers1 nothing is better than ,dr4 ,copeland's celebrated pills--quinine1 twelve grains2 camphor1 twelve grains2 cayenne pepper1 twelve grains4 ,mix with mucilage1 and divide into twelve pills3 take one every night or morning as required4 ,on the ,amazon carry guarana4 ,woolen socks are recommended by those who have had much experience of tropical fevers4 ,never bathe when the air is moist2 avoid a chill2 a native will not bathe till the sun is well up4 ,rub yourself with aguardiente 7native rum7 after a bath1 and always when caught in a shower4 ,freely exercise in ,quito to ward off liver complaints4 ,drink little water2 coffee or chocolate is better1 and tea is best4 ,avoid spirits with fruit1 and fruit after dinner4 ,the sickliest time in ,guayaquil is at the breaking up of the rainy season4 ,as to dangers3 ,first1 from the people4 ,traveling is as safe in ,ecuador as in ,new ,york1 and safer than in ,missouri4 ,there are no ,spanish banditti1 though some places1 as ,chambo1 near ,riobamba1 bear a bad name4 ,it is not wise to tempt a penniless footpad by a show of gold2 but no more so in ,ecuador than any where4 ,we have traveled from ,guayaquil to ,damascus1 but have never had occasion to use a weapon in self-defense2 and only once for offense1 when we threatened to demolish an ,arab sheik with an umbrella4 ,secondly1 from brutes4 ,some travelers would have us infer that it is impossible to stir in ,south ,america without being affectionately entwined by a serpent1 or sprung upon by a jaguar1 or bitten by a rattlesnake2 jiggers in every sand-heap and scorpions under every stone 7,edinburgh ,review1 xliii1 #caj74 ,padre ,vernazza speaks of meeting a serpent two yards in diameter6 ,but you will be disappointed at the paucity of animal life4 ,we were two months on the ,andes 7,august and ,september7 before we saw a live snake4 ,they are plentiful in the wet season in cacao plantations2 but the majority are harmless4 ,dr4 ,russel1 who particularly studied the reptiles of ,india1 found that out of forty-three species which he examined not more than seven had poisonous fangs2 and ,sir ,e4 ,tennent1 after a long residence in ,ceylon1 declared he had never heard of the death of an ,european by the bite of a snake4 ,it is true1 however1 that the number and proportion of the venomous species are greater in ,south ,america than in any other part of the world2 but it is some consolation to know that1 zoologically1 they are inferior in rank to the harmless ones2 and certainly1 adds ,sidney ,smith1 a snake that feels fourteen or fifteen stone stamping on his tail has little time for reflection1 and may be allowed to be poisonous4 ,if bitten1 apply ammonia externally immediately1 and take five drops in water internally2 it is an almost certain antidote4 ,the discomforts and dangers arising from the animal creation are no greater than one would meet in traveling overland from ,new ,york to ,new ,orleans4 ,finally1 of one thing the tourist in ,south ,america may be assured--that dear to him1 as it is to us1 will be the remembrance of those romantic rides over the ,cordilleras amid the wild magnificence of nature1 the adventurous walk through the primeval forest1 the exciting canoe-life on the ,napo1 and the long1 monotonous sail on the waters of the ,great ,river4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,in ,,memoriam4 ,a life that all the ,muses decked ,with gifts of grace that might express ,all comprehensive tenderness1 ,all-subtilizing intellect4--,,tennyson4 ,on the east of the city of ,quito is a beautiful and extensive plain1 so level that it is literally a table-land4 ,it is the classic ground of the astronomy of the eighteenth century3 here the ,french and ,spanish academicians made their celebrated measurement of a meridian of the earth4 ,as you stand on the edge of this plain just without the city1 you see the dazzling summit of ,cayambi looking down from the north2 on your left are the picturesque defiles of ,pichincha2 on your right the slopes of ,antisana4 ,close by you1 standing between the city and the plain1 is a high white wall inclosing a little plot1 like the city above1 four square4 ,you are reminded by its shape1 and also by its position relative to ,quito and ,pichincha1 of that other sacred inclosure just outside the walls of ,jerusalem and at the foot of ,olivet1 the ,garden of ,gethsemane4 ,this is the ,protestant ,cemetery4 ,illustration3 ,p4 ,staunton ,through the efforts of our late representative--now also numbered with the dead--this place was assigned by the government for the interment of foreigners who do not die in the ,romish faith4 ,and there we buried our fellow-traveler1 ,,colonel ,,phineas ,,staunton1 the artist of the expedition1 and ,vice-,chancellor of ,ingham ,university1 ,new ,york4 ,on the #hth of ,september1 #ahfg1 we bore him through the streets of ,quito to this quiet resting-place1 without parade and in solemn silence--just as we believe his unobtrusive spirit would have desired1 and just as his ,savior was carried from the cross to the sepulchre4 ,no splendid hearse or nodding plumes2 no long procession1 save the unheard tread of the angels2 no requiem1 save the unheard harps of the seraphs4 ,we gave him a ,protestant ,christian burial1 such as ,quito never saw4 ,in this corner of nature's vast cathedral1 the secluded shrine of grandeur and beauty not found in ,westminster ,abbey1 we left him4 ,we parted with him on the mount which is to be the scene of his transfiguration4 ,it would be difficult for an artist to find a grave whose surroundings are so akin to his feelings4 ,he lies in the lofty lap of the ,andes1 and snow-white pinnacles stand around him on every side1 just as we imagine the mountains are around the city of ,god4 ,we think we hear him saying1 as ,fanny ,kemble ,butler said of another burial-ground3 ,i will not rise to trouble any one if they will let me sleep here4 ,i will only ask to be permitted1 once in a while1 to raise my head and look out upon this glorious scene4 ,no dark and dismal fogs gather at evening about that spot4 ,it lies nearer to heaven than any other ,protestant cemetery in the world4 ,it is good 7says ,beecher7 to have our mortal remains go upward for their burial1 and catch the earliest sounds of that trumpet which shall raise the dead4 ,and the day is coming when that precious vein of gold that now lies in the bosom of the mighty ,andes shall leave its rocky bed and shine in seven-fold purity4 ,indeed1 the artist is already in that higher studio among the mountains of ,beulah4 ,a simple sculptured obelisk of sorrow stands over the dust of ,colonel ,staunton3 his most fitting monument is his own life-work4 ,he was the very painter ,humboldt longed for in his writings--the artist1 who1 studying in nature's great hot-house bounded by the tropics1 should add a new and more magnificent kingdom of nature to art4 ,colonel ,staunton1 true and lovely in his own character1 was ever seeking in nature for whatsoever things are lovely1 whatsoever things are pure1 and now was about to add whatsoever things are grand4 ,he was a ,christian artist1 in sympathy with such men as ,raphael and ,leonardo de ,vinci4 ,the habitual choice of sacred subjects 7says ,ruskin7 implies that the painter has a natural disposition to dwell on the highest thoughts of which humanity is capable4 ,no shallow or false person could have conceived his ,ascension4 ,only the highest qualities of the intellect and heart--a soul already half ascended--could have given such ethereal lightness to those two men in white apparel4 ,only the pure in heart see ,god4 ,as we revisit in imagination the spot where he sleeps so well1 we behold1 in the calm sublimity of the mountains that surround his grave1 an image of the undisturbed repose of his spirit on the ,rock of ,ages4 ,,appendices4 ,,appendix ,a4 ,,barometrical ,,measurements ,,across ,,south ,,america4#ahh ,footnote #ahh3 ,first published in the ,american ,journal of ,science for ,september1 #ahfh1 to which the reader is referred for other physical observations4 ,the barometric anomaly1 noticed particularly on the ,lower ,amazon1 was also observed by ,herndon1 ,castelnau1 ,chandlers1 ,spruce1 and ,wallace4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,locality4 ,altitude4,barometer4,boiling,regnault's ,difference4,other ,point4 ,equiv4 ,estimates4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,pacific #j #bi4icj #bab4ja ,bar4 of ,ocean ,visse1 #bi4ijd2 ,boussingault1 #bi4hfg4 ,guayaquil #aj #bi4hii #baa4ie #bi4hca -4#jjh;,b4,p4 of ,visse1 #baa4h ,guaranda #h1hdj #ba4igf ,alt4 of ,visse1 #hhgb2 ,hall1 #hibh4 ,arenal #ad1bej #ah4abc ,alt4 of ,visse1 #ac1iag2 ,hall1 #ad1bfh4 ,mocha #aj1ijj #bj4cic ,ambato #h1dij #bb4bda ,alt4 of ,visse1 #heda2 ,boussingault1 #hghg4 ,bar4 of ,jameson1 #bb4bah4 ,tacunga #i1aha #ba4fic ,alt4 of ,visse1 #iahj2 ,boussingault1 #ichd4 ,bar4 of ,jameson1 #ba4gjj4 ,tiupullo #aa1ffb #ai4heh ,alt4 of ,visse1 #aa1gjb4 ,machachi #i1ijj #ba4bab ,alt4 of ,visse1 #ihbc4 ,quito #i1ebj #ba4ecj #aie4h #ba4dhe -4#jde;,alt4 of ,la ,condamine1 #ieif2 ,humboldt1 #iegj2 ,caldas1 #hidg2 ,boussingault1 #iefg2 ,aguilar1 #idif2 ,visse1 #icjg2 ,bureau des ,longs41 #iedj2 ,tramblay's ,ann41 #iech2 ,jameson1 #ieac4 ,bar4 of ,la ,condamine1 #ba4djd2 ,humboldt1 #ba4djc2 ,aguilar1 #ba4dfe2 ,jameson1 #ba4eff4 ,b4,p4 of ,visse1 #aie4f2 ,tramblay1 #ahd4ah4 ,panecillo #aj1aja #ba4jdc ,alt4 of ,humboldt1 #aj1bdd2 ,aguilar1 #aj1ace4 ,bar4 of ,jameson1 #ba4bjg4 ,b4,p4 of ,visse1 #aid4g ,pichincha1 #ae1hbg #ag4jch #ahd4e #ag4jcj -4#jjh;,alt4 of top ,la ,condamine1 #ae1fjf2 ,humboldt1 #ae1ibb2 ,boussingault1 #ae1fgf2 ,visse1 #af1bjj2 ,hall1 #ae1chj2 ,jameson1 #ae1gjd4 ,bar4 of ,visse1 #af4idb4 ,pichincha1 #ac1cjj #ahi4b #ah4fgb ,alt4 of crater ,visse and ,moreno1 #ah1fjj4 ,antisana #ac1cjj #ah4ehc ,alt4 of ,h4 ,humboldt1 #ac1dfe2 ,boussingault1 #ac1cef4 ,bar4 of ,aguirre1 #ah4egc2 ,jameson1 #ah4fcj4 ,on #af1jjj #af4ghb ,antisana ,pinatura #aj1daj #bj4gia ,alt4 of ,boussingault1 #aj1cdh4 ,padregal #aa1hfj #ai4hag ,on #ab1fij #ai4jjd ,cotopaxi ,riobamba #i1bjj #ba4gje ,alt4 of ,visse1 #iaeg2 ,boussingault1 #idac4 ,cajabamba #aj1iah #bj4eab ,alt4 of ,la ,condamine1 #aa1jjj4 ,itulcachi #h1hhe #bb4jjf ,tablon #aj1eaf #bj4hjj ,papallacta #aj1eaa #bj4hjc #aic4h #bj4eih -4#bje ,guila #h1fbb #bb4bjf ,pachamama #g1ibj #bb4gea ,baeza #f1fbe #bc4gic ,cochachim- #d1beb #be4hcb bamba ,curi-urcu #c1bdg #bf4gdf ,archidona #b1aae #bg4haf #bji4jj #bh4ahj 4#cfd ,napo #a1dej #bh4dai #bji4d #bh4djg -4#jab ,santa ,rosa #a1ajj #bh4had #baj4d #bh4ihb 4#afh ,coca #heh #bi4jbb #baj4fe #bi4abg 4#aje ,mouth of #ehf #bi4cba #baa4jj #bi4cca 4#jaj the ,river ,aguarico ,do4 ,river #ejj #bi4djh #baj4h #bi4bae -4#aic ,curaray ,do4 ,river #che #bi4ebf #baa4d #bi4eff 4#jdj;,alt4 at ,napo ,nauta1 by ,castelnau1 #cfe4 ,pebas #cde #bi4eaj #baa4a #bi4cij -4#abj;,alt4 of ,herndon1 #ecg4 ,b4,p4 of ,herndon1 #baa4a4 ,loreto #baa4d #bi4eff ,san #bef #bi4fee ,antonio ,tabatinga #bee #bi4fef #baa4e #bi4fbe -4#jda;,alt4 of ,spix and ,martius1 #fgj2 ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #aej2 ,agassiz1 #bjj4 ,tunantins #ach8 #bi4ggj ,alt4 of ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #abd4 ,ega #ajj8 #bi4hac #baa4i #bi4hfb 4#jdi;,alt4 of ,herndon1 #bjeb2 ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #abj4 ,b4,p4 of ,herndon1 #bjh4b4 ,manos #aii8 #bi4gje ,alt4 of ,herndon1 #adge2 ,castelnau1 #bic2 ,spix and ,martius1 #eef2 ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #ib4 ,b4,p4 of ,herndon1 #bji4c2 ,gibbon1 #baj4hg2 ,wallace1 #bab4e4 ,serpa #aeh8 #bi4geb ,alt4 of ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #hd4 ,obidos #aad #bi4hjb ,alt4 of ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #eh2 ,agassiz1 #de4 ,santarem #ajg #bi4hjh #baa4e #bi4fbe -4#ahc;,alt4 of ,herndon1 #hdf2 ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #ej4 ,b4,p4 of ,herndon1 #baj4e4 ,mount #hc #bi4hcd ,algre ,gurup #ch #bi4hij ,alt4 of ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #db4 ,par #ae #bi4hhi #baa4ie #bi4hia 4#jjb;,alt4 of ,herndon1 #cbj2 ,azevedo and ,pinto1 #ce2 ,dewey1 #ce4 ,bar4 of ,herndon1 #bi4gjh2 ,dewey1 #bi4ida2 ,orton 7reduced to level of river71 #bi4iad4 ,b4,p4 of ,herndon1 #baa4e4 ,atlantic -#b #bi4icb #bab4af ,bar4 of ,dewey ,ocean #bi4igg4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,appendix ,b4 ,,vocabularies ,,from ,,the ,,quichua1 ,z,,paro1 ,y,,gua1 ,,and ,c,,mpas ,,languages4 ,,spanish ,,pronunciation ,english4 ,quichua4 ,zparo4 ,ygua4 ,father1 ,yya1 ,apochjo1 ,yen4 ,mother1 ,mma1 ,ano1 ,nihu4 ,son 7said by father71 ,chri1 ,nito1 ,pon4 ,son 7said by mother71 ,cri huhua1 ,tauq1 ,pon4 ,daughter 7said by father71 ,ushshi1 ,conit or cuniat4 ,daughter 7said by mother71 ,hurmi huhua1 ,itm4 ,own father1 ,ququin yya1 ,cuqu mno4 ,own mother1 ,ququin mma1 ,la cuno4 ,step-father1 ,la yya1 ,tma qura4 ,step-mother1 ,la mma1 ,tma qura 7mma874 ,own son1 ,ququin chri1 ,ia cunina4 ,step-son1 ,qupai chri1 ,saquna cunina4 ,elder son 7said by father71 ,cra 7or upa7 chri1 ,cuniapra4 ,elder son 7said by mother71 ,cra 7or upa7 huhua1 ,cuniapra4 ,younger son 7said by mother71 ,sllca 7or qupa7 chri1 ,nuno4 ,younger daughter 7said by father71 ,sllca 7or qupa7 ushshi1 ,nuno cuniat4 ,only son 7said by father71 ,zaplla 7or zapa7 chri1 ,noqu cunin1 ,tqui rai 7huahua74 ,only son 7said by mother71 ,zaplla 7or zapa7 cri huhua1 ,noqu tuco cunin1 ,tqui rai 7huahua74 ,grandson1 ,cri huhuay1 ,cuajeno4 ,granddaughter1 ,hurmi huhuay4 ,great-grandson1 ,cri vllca1 ,cuajeno4 ,great-great-grandson1 ,cri chupllu4 ,grandfather1 ,htun yya1 ,quirrato pitzo1 ,yen4 ,grandmother1 ,htun mma1 ,quitrato ocuje4 ,great-grandfather1 ,machi yya1 ,quirishepi4 ,great-grandmother1 ,pya 7or pa7 ,pra4 mma1 ,great-great-grandfather1 ,apsqui 7or ,pitzo4 apnche7 yya1 ,ancestors1 ,apsqui cna1 ,idasipa4 ,brother 7said by male71 ,hauaqui1 ,cuquiho1 ,rai tare4 ,brother 7said by female71 ,tri1 ,cuuno1 ,rai puipun4 ,sister 7said by male71 ,pni1 ,cuirimto1 ,rai ppo4 ,sister 7said by female71 ,nna1 ,taqu1 ,rai tare tu4 ,elder brother1 ,crac huaqui1 ,irisha cuquo4 ,younger brother1 ,sllca huaqui1 ,noqu4 ,cousin 7said by male71 ,chspa huaqui1 ,cuanerno1 ,primone4 ,cousin 7said by female71 ,chspa pni1 ,cuanerno1 ,primane4 ,second cousin1 ,calla chspa ,cuanerno huaqui1 7or cuaram1 relation74 ,third cousin1 ,cru chspa ,cuanerno 7or huaqui1 cuaram1 relation74 ,uncle 7father's brother71 ,yayapc huaqui ,tuco4 7or hchi71#ahi ,uncle 7mother's brother71 ,mamapc 7or caca7 ,cunoro4 tri1 ,aunt 7father's sister71 ,ypa 7on ,maraon1 ,cuiqua4 tiane71 ,aunt 7mother's sister71 ,mamapc a1 ,cuno cuo4 ,father-in-,law1 ,cacy 7of male72 quihuach 7of female74 ,mother-in-law1 ,quihuc 7of male72 quihuach 7of female74 ,son-in-,law1 ,msha1 ,acama1 ,quiria4 ,daughter-in-law1 ,kachn1 ,cuar rno4 ,brother-in-law1 ,masan ,cuajinojno4 7or caty71 ,sister-in-law1 ,ypa 7or kachn pra74 ,god-son1 ,chri cshcai 7or chscai71 7,not used74 ,god-father1 ,shutichc 7or shutshca7 yya1 ,na achiatno4 ,god-mother1 ,shutichc 7or shutshca7 mma1 ,noaichozno4 ,relation1 ,allu1 ,cuaram1 7,same as brother74 ,husband1 ,csa1 ,cuirn1 ,rai-huno4 ,wife1 ,hurmi1 ,cuirichn1 ,rai-huatur4 ,widower1 ,huccha cri1 ,machcho4 ,widow1 ,huccha hurmi1 ,machcho4 ,twins1 ,yshcai huachshca 7or huachc74 ,srro4 ,hand1 ,maqu1 ,cuichoc4 ,samut4 ,foot1 ,chaqu1 ,cuioc1 ,nimut4 ,fingers1 ,maqu plca1 ,canas1 7,no terms for ,toes1 ,chaqu plca1 ,cuioc canas4 fingers and toes74 ,thumb1 7,no separate terms ,cumacan4 for thumb and big toe74 ,nails1 ,silh1 ,anahuach4 ,god1 ,apnchi-yya 7,god our ,father71 ,pitzo1 ,tupana4 ,one1 ,shuc 7or ,shug71 ,noqu1 ,tiqu4 ,two1 ,ishcay1 ,ammasaniqu1 ,nanojoi4 ,three1 ,qunsa1 ,imuc maraqu 7above three they have no names1 but show their fingers2 do not count above ten74 ,momuh4 ,four1 ,chscu1 ,naunjia4 ,five1 ,pshca ,tanajo4 7or ptchca71 ,six1 ,scta1 ,tiqu ihte4 ,seven1 ,cnchis1 ,naoujaite4 ,eight1 ,psac 7or pusag71 ,momunhuaite4 ,nine1 ,iscn1 ,naauyua-te4 ,ten1 ,chnga1 ,nanjui4 7,go no higher47 ,eleven1 ,chnga shug4 ,twelve1 ,chnga shcay1 etc4 ,twenty1 ,ishcay-chnga4 ,twenty-one1 ,ishcay-chnga shug1 etc4 ,thirty1 ,qunsa chnga4 ,one hundred1 ,pchac 7or ptzag74 ,one thousand1 ,guarnga4 ,ten thousand1 7,would be chnga-guarnga2 but they never go over #ajjj74 ,ordinal numbers1 7,niqu is joined to the number3 e4g41 first is shug niqu3 second1 ishcy niqu74 ,footnote #ahi3 ,qu'ichua on ,maraon1 tiuit4 7,the ,conibos count by twos4 ,thus1 one is avcho2 two1 rabi4 ,above two1 so many twos1 as four is rabi-rabi2 and six1 rabi-rabi-rabi4 ,ten is expressed by spreading both hands1 and twenty by bringing fingers and toes together4 ,thus the ,caribs4 ,decimal numeration is found among all the ,american aborigines1 ancient and modern1 juxtaposition usually designating multiplication47 99 99 99 99 99 ,,campas ,,words4 ,mother1 ,ina4 ,nose1 ,aqury4 ,leg1 ,atse4 ,brother 7said ,mouth1 ,apa-anti4 ,belly1 ,amtse4 by male71 ,incho4 ,hand1 ,nco4 ,wrist1 ,ac4 ,brother 7said ,foot1 ,atse-cunda4 ,knee1 ,airit4 by female71 ,iga ,lips1 ,achra4 ,ankle1 ,atnque4 ,sister 7said by ,teeth1 ,aiqu4 ,nails1 ,achte4 by male71 ,incho4 ,hair1 ,qusti4 ,fly1 ,chimbque4 ,head1 ,atu4 ,neck1 ,aqunce4 ,musquito1 ,chtu4 ,eyes1 ,oqu4 ,arm1 ,ac4 ,armadillo ,pcha4 ,curasson1 ,choichtes4 ,rope1 ,piaminta4 ,turtle1 ,tut4 ,twine1 ,quiritar4 ,monkey1 ,tsep4 ,maize1 ,chnque4 ,cocoa1 ,quinbto4 ,one1 ,panro4 ,clay1 ,quipate4 ,two1 ,pitin4 ,shirt1 ,ppani4 ,three1 ,pariotohuy4 ,fire1 ,pamar4 ,four1 ,pariopatta4 ,hammock1 ,quio-ots4 ,five1 ,pariotohuaygae4 7,my informant on numerals1 a boy1 though quite intelligent1 could go no farther2 but the tribe undoubtedly count ten47 ,,appendix ,c4 ,,commerce ,,of ,,the ,,amazon4 ,i4--,,value ,,of ,,products ,,exported ,,from ,,different ,,towns ,,on ,,the ,,amazon ,,by ,,the ,,imperial ,,steamers ,,in #ahfg4aij ,footnote #aij3 ,this ,table is taken from the ,relatoria da ,companhia de ,navegaao e ,commercio do ,amazonas1 and includes only the commerce by the ,brazilian steamers and the staple products4 ,the vast amount carried by sailing craft and by ,peruvian steamers on the ,maraon is unknown to us4 ,the number of passengers transported by the steamers in #ahfg was #ac1hhf2 receipts from passage1 #ge1gdd2 from freight1 #baj1fed4 ,in the reduction1 the milrey has been taken at #ej cts4 ,u4,s4 currency1 which was the rate very nearly in #ahfg4 ,the alquiere 7alq47--4#ihh of a bushel2 arr4 arroba of #cb lbs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,products4 ,camet4,braves4,macap4,gurup4,porto ,prainha4 do ,moz4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,brazil ,nuts4 4444 #fjj #djj #bij #aj #af ,cacao4 #dd1jed #a1fae #f1dbi #a1cde #bega1fgg ,cattle4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 #a1ege ,coffee4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,copaiba4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,cotton1 raw4 4444 4444 #ajj #ij 4444 4444 ,dried ,meat4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 #ade ,farina4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,guarana4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,hides4 #ach #hjj #c1cjb #heh #bga #aeb ,horses4 4444 #ge #fjj 4444 4444 #cge ,india-rubber4 #abc1dfjabh1ddjcjf1hhj #he1aaj #he1ghj #a1dcj ,piassaba4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,pirarucu4 4444 #aj #bj 4444 #bjj #a1hje ,sasparilla4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 #fj ,tallow4 4444 #ab #bab 4444 4444 #fj ,tobacco4 4444 #ej 4444 #be 4444 #be ,tonka ,beans4 4444 4444 4444 #dc 4444 4444 ,turtles4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,turtle-oil4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,products4 ,mt4 ,santarum4,obidos4,villa ,serpa4 ,manos4,cudajaz4 ,algre4 ,nova4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,brazil ,nuts4 4444 #a1ccd #f1ich #b1efd #f1hhfae1jaja1ddb ,cacao4 #hf #fi1aaa #agb1dba #bh1ijg #cd1dfb #ch1hjb #a1ide ,cattle4 #fjj #eej #be 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,coffee4 4444 #ef #cc #g 4444 #agb 4444 ,copaiba4 4444 #ah #a1dbb #d1chc #h1fea #e1age #acb ,cotton1 raw4 4444 4444 4444 4444 #ajc #bic 4444 ,dried ,meat4 4444 #b1gdd #ae1fii #afg 4444 4444 4444 ,farina4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,guarana4 4444 #a1fbj #gej #bd1bdj #ad1eej #fj 4444 ,hides4 4444 #b1dbf #d1jhg #e1ghg #f1bij #b1ajc 4444 ,horses4 #c1bbe #c1ige #b1ajj 4444 4444 #cjj 4444 ,india-rubber4 4444 #bb1fgj #h1fdj #bj1ajjbji1djjbai1cdjcj1dfh ,piassaba4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 #g1fab 4444 ,pirarucu4 #ebe #ah1ijb #ca1ebe #dj1hbg #ba1jbe #gi1jee #h1bgc ,sasparilla4 4444 #b1cgf #a1cib #ajh #cgb #cc1gjh #bjg ,tallow4 4444 #bjj #a1dhd #a1cfh #d1afd #af 4444 ,tobacco4 4444 4444 4444 #bbe #a1ahg #bcg 4444 ,tonka ,beans4 4444 4444 #abj #a1jgj #e #i 4444 ,turtles4 4444 4444 #gj 4444 #b #gf #acf ,turtle-oil4 4444 4444 #ajj 4444 #e #h1bbj #baf ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,products4 ,coary4,ega4 ,fonte,touantina4,s4 ,tabatluga4 ,boa4 ,paulo4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,brazil ,nuts4 #dih #cbe 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,cacao4 #e1aib #d1ijg #ieg #cfe #caj #bbg ,cattle4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,coffee4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 #be ,copaiba4 4444 #a1eei #abc 4444 4444 4444 ,cotton1 raw4 4444 4444 #a #f 4444 #bcb ,dried ,meat4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,farina4 #hj #cg #ae #aje #aj 4444 ,guarana4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,hides4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,horses4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,india-rubber4 #g1fdd #f1hjhe1dfj #b1beb #i1aee #ae1jed ,piassaba4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,pirarucu4 #e1idd #f1bjeg1egb #f1gfh #b1jah #ibj ,sasparilla4 #idc #e1afcd1hgf #e1bji #b1ccd #c1gjc ,tallow4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,tobacco4 #dh #cjj 4444 4444 #ab #cfj ,tonka ,beans4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,turtles4 #ci #cc #aj #ej #c #c ,turtle-oil4 #b1chb #c1abca1fic #a1fdf #bih #cce ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,products4 ,quantity4 ,mean ,total ,price4,value4 ---------------------------------------- -- ,brazil ,nuts4 #ah1cig alq4 #b4jj #ce1gid ,cacao4 #cad1cbg arr4 #c4jj #idb1iha ,cattle4 #aaj #be4jj #b1gej ,coffee4 #gi arr4 #c4gj #bib ,copaiba4 #gb1jcj lbs4 4#cj #b1afj ,cotton1 raw4 #fec arr4 #a4be #haf ,dried ,meat4 #f1hba #b4ge #ah1geg ,farina4 #ij alq4 #b4ej #bdg ,guarana4 #a1cgd arr4 #cj4jj #da1bbj ,hides4 #aa1hga #b4jj #bc1gdb ,horses4 #adb #ge4jj #aj1fej ,india-rubber4 #abh1iee arr4 #aj4jja1bhi1eej ,piassaba4 #g1fab #a4jj #g1fab ,pirarucu4 #id1caf #b4ej #bce1gij ,sasparilla4 #e1aai #aa4hj #fj1ddb ,tallow4 #a1hic #d4jj #g1egb ,tobacco4 #bje #ab4bc #b1ebe ,tonka ,beans4 #bfj #d4hj #a1bdh ,turtles4 #cca #a4hj #eif ,turtle-oil4 #c1gfb j'rs4 #d4ge #ag1gfj ---------------------------------------- -- ,,ii4 ,,articles ,,exported ,,from ,,par ,,to ,,the ,,united ,,states ,,in #ahfj4 ,annatto lbs4 #fd1hcb ,balsam ,copaiba #hi1fgj ,cacao #ade1hhh ,copper1 old #a1aga ,hides1 wet #faf1agb dry #d1ejc ,nuts1 ,brazil #bc1ehb unshelled #ai1dha ,piassaba lbs4 #c1dhh ,rubber1 fine #b1cid1fef mixed #fi1abj coarse #dbj1jjj ,skins1 ,deer #fd1djf ,tapioca #aah1jhj ,tonka ,beans #ah1bih ,,iii4 ,,articles ,,imported ,,from ,,the ,,united ,,states ,,to ,,par ,,in #ahfj4 ,axes dozens1 #a1hbf ,candles boxes1 #eid ,chairs dozens1 #ccc ,codfish drums1 #a1idc ,clocks number1 #ffj ,combs dozens1 #g1cec ,domestics package1 #b1cgj ,drugs #dce ,flour barrels1 #af1gee ,fire-crackers boxes1 #a1hjj ,gunny-bags number1 #ac1jjj ,gunpowder kegs1 #b1aej ,hams tierces1 #ch ,hardware packages1 #bja ,hats1 ,palm-leaf cases1 #ejf ,knives dozens1 #b1aie ,lard packages1 #b1gji ,lumber feet1 #ge1iee ,nails kegs1 #ehh ,matches cases1 #agd ,oars number1 #eib ,pepper bags1 #aij ,rosin barrels1 #a1eef ,rubber and other ,shoes pairs1 #c1cih ,shooks 7box7 number1 #af1dbh ,soap boxes1 #f1hia ,specie1 in ,gold dollars1 #aac1hbg ,straw ,paper reams1 #ab1ijc ,soda-biscuit #ab-lb4 tins1 #e1ied ,saltpetre kegs1 #ie ,tea chests1 #bce ,tea boxes1 #ecc ,tar and ,pitch barrels1 #cbi ,tobacco boxes1 #beg ,twine1 ,cotton pounds1 #ac1cbb ,tortoise-shell #bii-a_/b ,,iv4 ,,duties ,,on ,,principal ,,imports ,,from ,,united ,,states ,,at ,,par4 ,axes and ,hatchets #cj reys per pound4 ,biscuit1 ,soda #djj arroba4 ,brooms #fjj dozen4 ,chairs1 cane-seat #a1jjj article4 rocking #c1jjj extra #f1jjj ,cinnamon1 ,ceylon #ejj pound4 ,combs1 rubber #fjj ivory #b1jjj ,cotton ,goods #ij sq4 vara4 colored twills #aej ,candles #bdj pound4 ,cigars #a1bjj ,cordage #ej ,dirks1 ordinary #f1jjj article4 extra #ab1jjj ,flour #aej arroba4 ,hats1 ,palm-leaf4 #ahj article4 ,hams #gj pound4 ,homoeopathic ,medicine #cjj ounce4 ,knives #bej article4 ,lard #a1ejj ,matting1 ,india #bdj pound4 ,nails1 to two inches #dj over #bj ,padlocks1 brass #bej iron #ahj ,pearl ,barley #djj arroba4 ,pepper1 ,india #gj pound4 ,plows free4 ,pork #fjj arroba4 ,powder #bjj pound4 ,paper1 ,straw #cj ,pilot ,bread #aej arroba4 ,roman ,cement #ej ,rosin #a1bjj ,sieves1 iron wire #cj pound4 brass #ej ,shoes1 ,rubber #djj ,store ,trucks #ijj article4 ,shooks1 boxes #djj arroba4 ,soap1 ,yellow #cj pound4 ,scales1 simple #abj ,tar and ,pitch #bjj arroba4 ,tortoise-shell #b1ejj pound4 ,tea #dej ,twine1 ,cotton #cjj ,trunks1 #b to #d palms #b1gjj article4 over #d #c1fjj ,tobacco1 chewing #d1hjj arroba4 cut #i1fjj arroba4 ,this ,tariff went into operation ,february #bc1 #ahfa4 ,,addenda4 ,orchilla1 page #bi4--,this valuable lichen comes chiefly from ,tumbez4 ,it is not found on the rocks1 like the orchilla of the ,old ,world1 but grows on various trees4 ,the foliage of a tree disappears when the orchilla commences4 ,the sea air is indispensable to its production1 as it is found only near the coast4 ,religious ,intolerance1 p4 #ia4--,the expression ,protestant dogs has since been publicly repeated by a priest in a sermon1 who told the people to confess1 or they would be treated in a similar way4 ,it called forth a remonstrance from ,mr4 ,hamilton1 the ,british ,minister1 directed to the archbishop1 declaring such conduct inhuman and unchristian4 ,the ,pope's ,nuncio left ,quito for good in ,july1 #ahfi4 ,fish in the ,quito ,valley1 p4 #ajg4--;,dr4 ,gill informs me that the true name of this little fish is ,cyclopium ,humboldtii1 ,swainson4 ,it belongs to the sub-family ,trachelypterin1 under ,silurid4 ,hummers' ,nests1 p4 #ajh4--,they are not always of a lengthened form1 as the text would imply1 but are sometimes quite shallow4 ,they are invariably lined with the softest vegetable materials and covered with moss4 ,the nests are not as compact as those of our ,northern hummer1 and1 so far as we observed1 are never shingled with flat lichens4 ,humboldt in #ahjb1 p4 #aef4--;,he spent five months in the valley of ,quito4 ,pebas ,fossils1 p4 #bhb4--;,in a letter to the author1 ,mr4 ,darwin says3 ,your discovery of marine shells high up the ,amazon possesses extreme interest1 not only in itself1 but as one more most striking instance how rash it is to assert that any deposit is not a marine formation because it does not contain fossils4 ,as for myself1 ,i never believed for a moment in ,agassiz's idea of the origin of the ,amazonian formation4 ,agassiz candidly confesses 7,lyell's ,principles1 i41 #dfh7 that he failed to discover any of those proofs which we are accustomed to regard1 even in temperate latitudes1 as essential for the establishment of the former existence of glaciers where they are now no more4 ,no glaciated pebbles1 or far-transported angular blocks with polished and striated sides2 no extensive surface of rock1 smooth1 and traversed by rectilinear furrows1 were observed4 ,the fossiliferous bed at ,pebas is as plainly in situ as the ,medina sandstone at ,genesee ,falls4 ,tropical ,flowers1 p4 #bib4--;,during twelve years spent amid the grandest tropical vegetation1 ,i have seen nothing comparable to the effect produced on our landscapes by gorse1 broom1 heather1 wild hyacinths1 hawthorns1 purple orchises1 and buttercups4--,wallace's ,malay ,archipelago4 ,coca-plant1 p4 #bic4--,the engraving conveys the impression that the leaves are parallel-veined2 but the coca is a dicotyledon1 with the under surface of the leaf strongly marked with veins1 of which two1 in addition to the midrib1 run parallel with the margin4 ,pedrero1 ,map4--,this town on the ,rio ,negro is also written ,pedreira4 ,,index4 ,adobe dwellings1 page #df4 ,agassiz1 ,mount1 #bej4 ,prof41 on the geology of the ,amazonian valley1 #bhj1 #bhb1 #cdg4 ,agriculture on the ,amazon1 #bdc4 ,andes1 #ge4 ,aground on the ,amazon1 #bci4 ,aguano1 #bja4 ,aguardiente1 #age4 ,alcalde's house1 #bjb4 ,alligators1 #ce1 #bif4 ,almeyrim ,hills1 #beb4 ,aloe1 ,american1 #ajj4 ,alpargates1 #gj4 ,altar1 volcano of1 #aej4 ,amazon ,river1 annual rise1 #bgd4 birds on1 #cjf4 cetaceans1 #bii4 climate1 #bgc1 #bhd4 commerce1 #bgg4 current1 #bgc4 delta1 #bgb4 depth1 #bgd4 etymology1 #bgh4 expeditions1 #bgg4 first view of1 #bbf4 fishes1 #bie4 foreign vessels on1 #bgf4 insects1 #cjj4 life within1 #bie4 magnitude1 #bfd1 #bgb1 #bgh4 natural canals1 #bfe4 navigation1 #bgf4 reptiles1 #bif4 scenery1 #bcf4 source1 #bfd4 tints1 #bgb4 tributaries1 #bff1 #bga4 volume1 #bgc4 ,valley1 #bhj4 creation of1 #aag4 forest1 #bhg4 fruits1 #bhi4 geology1 #bha1 #cdg4 minerals1 #bhf4 slope1 #bhj4 soil1 #bhf4 trees1 #bhi4 zoology1 #bhd4 ,amazonian ,indians1 #caf4 ,ambato1 #eb1 #aec4 ,america1 the continent of vegetation1 #ajc4 ,america1 ,south1 geology of1 #aad4 ,amphisboena1 #aid4 ,amusements in ,quito1 #hj4 ,anacondas1 #bbb4 ,andean chain1 #aai4 ,andes1 as a geological boundary1 #bjg4 birds on the1 #aje1 #adf4 equipped for the1 #cg4 first sight of the1 #cc4 heart of the1 #dh4 last view of the1 #bad4 of ,ecuador1 #aba4 reptiles on the1 #ajg4 rise of the1 #aae4 sinking of the1 #ach4 summit of the1 #di1 #acd4 valleys of the1 #acj4 views from the1 #de1 #acd1 #ada4 ,anguteros ,indians1 #bbb4 ,animal life1 dearth of1 #ahh4 ,animals on the ,napo1 #bjg4 ,antisana1 volcano of1 #add1 #ahj4 hacienda1 #add4 ,ants1 battle with1 #bbe4 on the ,amazon1 #cjj4 on the ,napo1 #aid4 ,apothecaries in ,quito1 #ic4 ,archidona1 #aia4 ,architecture in ,quito1 #gh4 ,arenal1 #di4 ,armadillo1 #caj4 ,army of ,ecuador1 #hg4 ,arrieros1 #cf4 ,arrows1 ,indian1 #cba4 ,arts in ,quito1 #gh4 ,ascending the ,andes1 #dc1 #if1 #add4 ,astronomy on the ,andes1 #ig4 ,atahuallpa1 #ef4 ,atmosphere of ,quito1 #ig4 ,baeza1 #ahg4 ,balsas1 #cb4 ,bamboos on the ,napo1 #bbj4 ,banana1 #cd4 ,baos1 #adi4 ,barometric measurements1 #ccg4 anomaly1 #bda1 #bbf4 variations at ,quito1 #ib4 ,barra1 #bdc4 ,bartholomew1 ,st41 #ed4 ,bats1 #bje1 #cab4 ,bears1 #aje4 ,bed1 ,andean1 #aha4 ,bees on the ,amazon1 #cjc4 of ,quito1 #ajh4 on the ,napo1 #bjg4 ,beetles on the ,amazon1 #cjc4 on the ,napo1 #bjf4 ,bells of ,quito1 #hi4 ,big-ear ,indians1 #bbb4 ,birds on the ,amazon1 #cjf4 coloration of1 in the tropics1 #aje4 moulting of1 #bhe4 of ,south ,america1 #aje4 ,blow-guns1 #agj4 ,boa-constrictor1 #bbc4 ,bodegas1 #ce4 ,botany of ,south ,america1 #bhf4 ,brazilian etiquette1 #bce1 #bdf4 frontier1 #bcc4 steamers1 #bcd4 ,brazilians1 #cbc4 ,brazil-nut trees1 #bij4 ,bread-tree1 #cd4 ,breves1 #bed4 ,buildings1 ,andean1 #df4 ,bull-baits1 #hj4 ,burial ,customs1 #ia1 #cba4 at ,quito1 #ia4 ,butter1 #bea4 ,butterflies on the ,amazon1 #cjb4 on the ,napo1 #bjf4 ,buzzards1 #bi4 ,caballococha1 #bcb4 ,cacao1 #cj1 #bij4 ,cajabamba1 #aec4 ,calabash-tree1 #bhi4 ,camino ,real1 #de4 ,camellones1 #dc4 ,camindo on the ,napo1 #bbf4 ,cmpas ,indians1 #cbb4 ,canlos1 #agb4 ,canoe-life on the ,napo1 #bac4 ,canoe-paths1 #bfe4 ,canoes on the ,napo1 #bjj4 ,capybara1 #caj4 ,caraguairazo1 #acb4 ,carnival1 #ha4 ,carranqui1 #aeg4 ,cassiquiari ,canal1 #bfg4 ,cathedral of ,guayaquil1 #bf4 of ,quito1 #ff4 ,cattle on the ,andes1 #ade4 ,caucho-tree1 #bhh4 ,cayambi1 #adc4 ,cedar on the ,amazon1 #bhi4 ,cemetery1 ,protestant1 #ia4 ,century-plant1 #ajj4 ,cerro1 #cc4 ,cetaceans in the ,amazon1 #bii4 ,chicha1 #afg1 #baj4 ,chillo hacienda1 #aee4 ,chimbo1 ,valley of1 #df4 ,chimborazo1 #cc1 #dd1 #di1 #abg4 ,chimneys1 absence of1 #dd4 ,chirimoya1 #aja4 ,chuquipoyo1 #ea4 ,chuquiragua1 #ajj4 ,cigna1 #bjf1 #cjh4 ,cinchona1 #dg4 ,cinnamon1 ,american1 #agb4 ,circumcision1 #cbb4 ,civility1 ,ecuadorian1 #ce1 #ga4 ,civilization on the ,amazon1 #bcf4 ,clay-eating1 #bbi4 formation of the ,amazon1 #bbe4 ,climate of ,guayaquil1 #bh4 of ,quito1 #ia4 of the ,amazon1 #bch1 #bea4 ,coary1 ,river1 #bdb1 #bfi4 ,coca-chewing1 #bia1 #cdh4 ,coca village1 #bjg4 ,cochineal1 #ajh4 ,cock-fighting1 #ce1 #hj4 ,cocoa-palm1 #ce4 ,coffee1 #ca1 #bei1 #bij4 ,colleges of ,ecuador1 #gi4 ,combativeness on the ,andes1 #ie4 ,commerce on the ,amazon1 #cdb4 ,compressed heads1 #aga4 ,compulsory commerce1 #aie4 ,condor1 #ajf1 #aca4 ,cones of volcanoes1 #abb4 ,conibos ,indians1 #cba4 ,cookery in ,quito1 #dd1 #hd4 ,copal-gum1 #aic4 ,cordillera1 #cc1 #abf4 ,cosanga ,river1 #ahi4 ,costumes of ,amazonian ,indians1 #bci1 #bda4 ,cotocach1 village1 #aed4 volcano1 #adb4 ,cotopaxi1 #ee1 #adf4 eruptions of1 #abe4 ,cotton-mills1 #gg1 #aee4 ,cow-tree1 #bhh4 ,craft on the ,napo1 #bji4 ,craters1 deep1 #acc4 ,crocodiles1 #bif4 ,cudaj1 #bdb4 ,cuenca1 #aeb4 ,cunchebamba1 #ec4 ,curaray ,river1 #bbd4 ,curassow1 #cjh4 ,curi-urcu1 #aia4 ,currency of ,par1 #bfj4 ,quito1 #ge4 ,cuzco ladies1 #hb4 ,dangers in ,south ,america1 #cca4 ,darwin on the geology of the ,pampas1 #bhb4 ,darwin on the geology of the ,amazon1 #cdg4 ,debt of ,ecuador1 #hg4 ,deer on the ,napo1 #bbf4 fossil1 #aed4 ,descent into ,pichincha1 #aci4 ,discipline on the ,napo1 #bjd4 ,diseases on the ,andes1 #ic1 #cca4 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