,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,their ,history from ,plantation to ,consumer ,by ,,arthur ,w4 ,,knapp ,b4 ,sc4 7,b'ham471 ,f4,i4,c41 ,b4 ,sc4 7,lond47 ,member of the ,society of ,public ,analysts2 ,member of the ,society of ,chemical ,industry2 ,fellow of the ,institute of ,hygiene4 ,research ,chemist to ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,ltd4 ,,london ,,chapman ,,and ,,hall1 ,,ltd4 #aibj ,,preface ,although there are several excellent scientific works dealing in a detailed manner with the cacao bean and its products from the various view points of the technician1 there is no comprehensive modern work written for the general reader4 ,until that appears1 ,i offer this little book1 which attempts to cover lightly but accurately the whole ground1 including the history of cacao1 its cultivation and manufacture4 ,this is a small book in which to treat of so large a subject1 and to avoid prolixity ,i have had to generalise4 ,this is a dangerous practice1 for what is gained in brevity is too often lost in accuracy3 brevity may be always the soul of wit1 it is rarely the body of truth4 ,the expert will find that ,i have considered him in that ,i have given attention to recent developments1 and if ,i have talked of the methods peculiar to one place as though they applied to the whole world1 ,i ask him to consider me by supplying the inevitable variations and exceptions himself4 ,the book1 though short1 has taken me a long time to write1 having been written in the brief breathing spaces of a busy life1 and it would never have been completed but for the encouragement ,i received from ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,ltd41 who aided me in every possible way4 ,i am particularly indebted to the present ,lord ,mayor of ,birmingham1 ,mr4 ,w4,a4 ,cadbury1 for advice and criticism1 and to ,mr4 ,walter ,barrow for reading the proofs4 ,the members of the staff to whom ,i am indebted are ,mr4 ,w4 ,pickard1 ,mr4 ,e4,j4 ,organ1 ,mr4 ,t4,b4 ,rogers2 also ,mr4 ,a4 ,hackett1 for whom the diagrams in the manufacturing section were originally made by ,mr4 ,j4,w4 ,richards4 ,i am grateful to ,messrs4 ,j4,s4 ,fry and ,sons1 ,limited1 for information and photographs4 ,in one or two cases ,i do not know whom to thank for the photographs1 which have been culled from many sources4 ,i have much pleasure in thanking the following3 ,mr4 ,r4 ,whymper for a large number of ,trinidad photos2 the ,director of the ,imperial ,institute and ,mr4 ,john ,murray for permission to use three illustrations from the ,imperial ,institute series of handbooks to the ,commercial ,resources of the ,tropics2 ,m4 ,ed4 ,leplae1 ,director-,general of ,agriculture1 ,belgium1 for several photos1 the blocks of which were kindly supplied by ,mr4 ,h4 ,hamel ,smith1 of ,tropical ,life2 ,messrs4 ,macmillan and ,co4 for five reproductions from ,c4,j4,j4 van ,hall's book on ,cocoa2 and ,west ,africa for four illustrations of the ,gold ,coast4 ,the photographs reproduced on pages #b1 #bc1 #ci1 #dg1 #di and #ga are by ,jacobson of ,trinidad1 on pages #he and #hf by ,underwood ,underwood of ,london1 and on page #da by ,mrs4 ,stanhope ,lovell of ,trinidad4 ,the industry with which this book deals is changing slowly from an art to a science4 ,it is in a transition period 7it is one of the humours of any live industry that it is always in a transition period74 ,there are many indications of scientific progress in cacao cultivation2 and now that1 in addition to the experimental and research departments attached to the principal firms1 a ,research ,association has been formed for the cocoa and chocolate industry1 the increased amount of diffused scientific knowledge of cocoa and chocolate manufacture should give rise to interesting developments4 ,a4,w4 ,,knapp4 ,birmingham1 ,february1 #aibj4 ,,contents ,,page ,,preface v ,,introduction #a ,,chapter ,i ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate--,a ,,sketch ,,of ,,their ,,history #e ,,chapter ,,ii ,,cacao ,,and ,,its ,,cultivation #ag ,,chapter ,,iii ,,harvesting ,,and ,,preparation ,,for ,,the ,,market #de ,with a dialogue on ,the ,kind of ,cacao the ,manufacturers ,like4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,cacao ,,production ,,and ,,sale #ha ,with notes on the chief producing areas1 cacao markets1 and the planter's life ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate #aai ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,chocolate #aci ,,chapter ,,vii ,,by-,,products ,,of ,,the ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,,industry #aeg 7a7 ,cacao ,butter1 7b7 ,cacao ,shell ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,composition ,,and ,,food ,,value ,,of ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate #afe 7including ,milk ,chocolate7 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,adulteration1 ,,and ,,the ,,need ,,for ,,definitions #agi ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,consumption ,,of ,,cacao #ahc ,,bibliography #aia ,a ,list of the ,important ,books on ,cocoa and ,chocolate from the earliest times to the present day4 ,,index #bjg ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,cacao ,pods ,old ,drawing of an ,american ,indian1 with ,chocolate ,whisk1 etc4 ,native ,american ,indians ,roasting the ,beans1 etc4 ,ancient ,mexican ,drinking ,cups ,cacao ,tree1 with ,pods and ,leaves ,cacao ,tree1 shewing ,pods ,growing from ,trunk ,flowers and ,fruits on main branches of a ,cacao ,tree ,cacao ,pods ,cut ,pod1 revealing the ,white ,pulp round the ,beans ,cacao ,pods1 shewing ,beans inside ,drawing of ,typical ,pods illustrating varieties ,tropical ,forest1 ,trinidad ,characteristic ,root ,system of the ,cacao ,tree ,nursery with the ,young ,cacao ,plants in ,baskets1 ,java ,planting ,cacao from ,young ,seedlings in ,bamboo ,pots1 ,trinidad ,cacao in its ,fourth ,year ,copy of an ,old ,engraving shewing the ,cacao ,tree1 and a tree shading it ,cacao ,trees shaded by ,kapok1 ,java ,cacao ,trees shaded by ,bois ,immortel1 ,trinidad ,cacao ,tree with ,suckers ,cutlassing ,common ,types of ,cacao ,pickers ,gathering ,cacao ,pods1 ,trinidad ,collecting ,cacao ,pods into a ,heap ,men ,breaking ,pods1 etc4 ,sweating ,boxes1 ,trinidad ,fermenting ,boxes1 ,java ,charging ,cacao on to ,trucks in the ,plantation1 ,san ,thome ,cacao in the ,fermenting ,trucks1 ,san ,thome ,tray-barrow for ,drying ,small ,quantities ,spreading the ,cacao ,beans on mats to dry1 ,ceylon ,drying ,trays1 ,grenada ,hamel ,smith ,rotary ,dryer ,drying ,platforms with ,sliding ,roofs1 ,trinidad ,cacao ,drying ,platforms1 ,san ,thome ,washing the ,beans1 ,ceylon ,claying ,cacao ,beans1 ,trinidad ,sorting ,cacao ,beans1 ,java ,diagram3 ,world's ,cacao ,production ,,map of the ,world1 with only ,cacao-,producing ,areas marked ,raking ,cacao ,beans on the ,driers1 ,ecuador ,gathering ,cacao ,pods1 ,ecuador ,sorting ,cacao for ,shipment1 ,ecuador ,,map of ,south ,america and the ,west ,indies ,workers on a ,cacao ,plantation ,,map of ,africa1 with only ,cacao-,producing ,areas marked ,foreshore at ,accra1 with ,stacks of ,cacao ready for ,shipment ,carriers conveying ,bags of ,cacao to ,surf ,boats1 ,accra ,crossing the ,river1 ,gold ,coast ,drying ,cacao ,beans1 ,gold ,coast ,shooting ,cacao from the ,road to the ,beach1 ,accra ,rolling ,cacao1 ,gold ,coast ,rolling ,cacao1 ,gold ,coast ,carrying ,cacao to the ,railway ,station1 ,gold ,coast ,wagon ,loads of ,cacao being taken from ,depot to the ,beach1 ,accra ,the ,buildings of the ,boa ,entrada ,cacao ,estate1 ,san ,thome ,drying ,cacao1 ,san ,thome ,barrel ,rolling1 ,gold ,coast ,bagging ,cacao1 ,gold ,coast ,surf ,boats by the ,side of the ,ocean ,liner1 ,accra ,bagging ,cacao ,beans for ,shipment1 ,trinidad ,transferring ,bags of ,cacao to ,lighters1 ,trinidad ,diagram showing ,variation in ,price of ,cacao ,beans1 #aiac-aiai ,group of ,workers on ,cacao ,estate ,carting ,cacao to ,railway ,station1 ,ceylon ,the ,carenage1 ,grenada ,early ,factory ,methods ,women ,grinding ,chocolate ,cacao ,bean ,warehouse ,cacao ,bean ,sorting and ,cleaning ,machine ,diagram of ,cacao ,bean ,cleaning ,machine ,section through ,gas ,heated ,cacao ,roaster ,roasting ,cacao ,beans ,cacao ,bean1 ,shell and ,germ ,section through ,kibbling ,cones and ,germ ,screens ,section through ,winnowing ,machine ,cacao ,grinding ,section through ,grinding ,stones ,a ,cacao ,press ,section through ,cacao ,press-pot and ,ram-plate ,chocolate ,melangeur ,plan of ,chocolate ,melangeur ,chocolate ,refining ,machine ,grinding ,cacao ,nib and ,sugar ,section through ,chocolate ,grinding ,rolls ,conche ,machines ,section through ,conche ,machine ,machines for ,mixing or ,conching ,chocolate ,chocolate ,shaking ,table ,girls ,covering or ,dipping ,cremes1 etc4 ,the ,enrober ,a ,confectionery ,room ,factory at which ,milk is ,evaporated for ,milk ,chocolate ,manufacture ,cocoa and ,chocolate ,despatch ,deck ,boxing ,chocolates ,packing ,chocolates ,factory at which ,milk is ,evaporated for ,milk ,chocolate ,manufacture ,cacao ,pods1 ,leaves and ,flowers ,,introduction ,in a few short chapters ,i propose to give a plain account of the production of cocoa and chocolate4 ,i assume that the reader is not a specialist and knows little or nothing of the subject1 and hence both the style of writing and the treatment of the subject will be simple4 ,at the same time1 ,i assume that the reader desires a full and accurate account1 and not a vague story in which the difficulties are ignored4 ,i hope that1 as a result of this method of dealing with my subject1 even experts will find much in the book that is of interest and value4 ,after a brief survey of the history of cocoa and chocolate1 ,i shall begin with the growing of the cacao bean1 and follow the cacao in its career until it becomes the finished product ready for consumption4 ,cacao or ,cocoa8 ,the reader will have noted above the spelling cacao1 and to those who think it curious1 ,i would say that ,i do not use this spelling from pedantry4 ,it is an imitation of the word which the ,mexicans used for this commodity as early as #aejj1 and when spoken by ,europeans is apt to sound like the howl of a dog4 ,the ,mexicans called the tree from which cacao is obtained cacauatl4 ,when the great ,swedish scientist ,linnaeus1 the father of botany1 was naming and classifying 7about #agce7 the trees and plants known in his time1 he christened it ,theobroma ,cacao1 by which name it is called by botanists to this day4 ,theo-broma is ,greek for ,food of the ,gods4 ,why ,linnaeus paid this extraordinary compliment to cacao is obscure1 but it has been suggested that he was inordinately fond of the beverage prepared from it--the cup which both cheers and satisfies4 ,it will be seen from the above that the species-name is cacao1 and one can understand that ,englishmen1 finding it difficult to get their insular lips round this outlandish word1 lazily called it cocoa4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,pods 7,amelonado type7 in various states of growth and ripeness4 ,in this book ,i shall use the words cacao1 cocoa1 and chocolate as follows3 ,cacao1 when ,i refer to the cacao tree1 the cacao pod1 or the cacao bean or seed4 ,by the single word1 cacao1 ,i imply the raw product1 cacao beans1 in bulk4 ,cocoa1 when ,i refer to the powder manufactured from the roasted bean by pressing out part of the butter4 ,the word is too well established to be changed1 even if one wished it4 ,as we shall see later 7in the chapter on adulteration7 it has come legally to have a very definite significance4 ,if this method of distinguishing between cacao and cocoa were the accepted practice1 the perturbation which occurred in the public mind during the war 7in #aiaf71 as to whether manufacturers were exporting cocoa to neutral countries1 would not have arisen4 ,it should have been spelled cacao1 for the statements referred to the raw beans and not to the manufactured beverage4 ,had this been done1 it would have been unnecessary for the manufacturers to point out that cocoa powder was not being so exported1 and that they naturally did not sell the raw cacao bean4 ,chocolate4--,this word is given a somewhat wider meaning4 ,it signifies any preparation of roasted cacao beans without abstraction of butter4 ,it practically always contains sugar and added cacao butter1 and is generally prepared in moulded form4 ,it is used either for eating or drinking4 ,cacao ,beans and ,coconuts4 ,in old manuscripts the word cacao is spelled in all manner of ways1 but cocoa survived them all4 ,this curious inversion1 cocoa1 is to be regretted1 for it has led to a confusion which could not otherwise have arisen4 ,but for this spelling no one would have dreamed of confusing the totally unrelated bodies1 cacao and the milky coconut4 7,you note that ,i spell it coconut1 not cocoanut1 for the name is derived from the ,spanish coco1 grinning face1 or bugbear for frightening children1 and was given to the nut because the three scars at the broad end of the nut resemble a grotesque face74 ,to make confusion worse confounded the old writers referred to cacao seeds as cocoa nuts 7as for example1 in ,the ,humble ,memorial of ,joseph ,fry1 quoted in the chapter on history71 but1 as in appearance cacao seeds resemble beans1 they are now usually spoken of as beans4 ,the distinction between cacao and the coconut may be summarised thus3 ,cacao4 ,coconut4 ,botanical ,name ,theobroma ,cacao ,cocos nucifera ,palm ,tree ,palm ,fruit ,cacao pod1 containing ,coconut1 which with outer many seeds 7cacao beans7 fibre is as large as a man's head ,products ,cocoa ,broken coconut 7copra7 ,chocolate ,coconut matting ,fatty ,constituent ,cacao butter ,coconut oil ,,chapter ,i ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate--,a ,,sketch ,,of ,,their ,,history ,did time and space allow1 there is much to be told on the romantic side of chocolate1 of its divine origin1 of the bloody wars and brave exploits of the ,spaniards who conquered ,mexico and were the first to introduce cacao into ,europe1 tales almost too thrilling to be believed1 of the intrigues of the ,spanish ,court1 and of celebrities who met and sipped their chocolate in the parlours of the coffee and chocolate houses so fashionable in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,cocoa and ,chocolate 7,whymper74 ,on opening a cacao pod1 it is seen to be full of beans surrounded by a fruity pulp1 and whilst the pulp is very pleasant to taste1 the beans themselves are uninviting1 so that doubtless the beans were always thrown away until 444 someone tried roasting them4 ,one pictures this someone1 a pre-historic ,aztec with swart skin1 sniffing the aromatic fume coming from the roasting beans1 and thinking that beans which smelled so appetising must be good to consume4 ,the name of the man who discovered the use of cacao must be written in some early chapter of the history of man1 but it is blurred and unreadable3 all we know is that he was an inhabitant of the ,new ,world and probably of ,central ,america4 ,original ,home of ,cacao4 ,the corner of the earth where the cacao tree originally grew1 and still grows wild to-day1 is the country watered by the mighty ,amazon and the ,orinoco4 ,this is the very region in which ,orellano1 the ,spanish adventurer1 said that he had truly seen ,el ,dorado1 which he described as a ,city of ,gold1 roofed with gold1 and standing by a lake with golden sands4 ,in reality1 ,el ,dorado was nothing but a vision1 a vision that for a hundred years fascinated all manner of dreamers and adventurers from ,sir ,walter ,raleigh downwards1 so that many braved great hardships in search of it1 groped through the forests where the cacao tree grew1 and returned to ,europe feeling they had failed4 ,to our eyes they were not entirely unsuccessful1 for whilst they failed to find a city of gold1 they discovered the home of the golden pod4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,drawing ,,of ,,an ,,american ,,indian2 ,,at ,,his ,,feet ,a ,,chocolate-,,cup1 ,,chocolate-,,pot1 ,,and ,,chocolate ,,whisk ,,or ,,molinet4 7,from ,traitez ,nouveaux et ,curieux du ,cafe1 du ,the1 et du ,chocolate4 ,dufour1 #afic74 ,montezuma--the ,first ,great ,patron of ,chocolate4 ,when ,columbus discovered the ,new ,world he brought back with him to ,europe many new and curious things1 one of which was cacao4 ,some years later1 in #aeai1 the ,spanish conquistador1 ,cortes1 landed in ,mexico1 marched into the interior and discovered to his surprise1 not the huts of savages1 but a beautiful city1 with palaces and museums4 ,this city was the capital of the ,aztecs1 a remarkable people1 notable alike for their ancient civilisation and their wealth4 ,their national drink was chocolate1 and ,montezuma1 their ,emperor1 who lived in a state of luxurious magnificence1 took no other beverage than the chocolatl1 a potation of chocolate1 flavoured with vanilla and other spices1 and so prepared as to be reduced to a froth of the consistency of honey1 which gradually dissolved in the mouth and was taken cold4 ,this beverage if so it could be called1 was served in golden goblets1 with spoons of the same metal or tortoise-shell finely wrought4 ,the ,emperor was exceedingly fond of it1 to judge from the quantity--no less than fifty jars or pitchers being prepared for his own daily consumption3 two thousand more were allowed for that of his household4#a ,it is curious that ,montezuma took no other beverage than chocolate1 especially if it be true that the ,aztecs also invented that fascinating drink1 the cocktail 7xoc-tl74 ,how long this ancient people1 students of the mysteries of culinary science1 had known the art of preparing a drink from cacao1 is not known1 but it is evident that the cultivation of cacao received great attention in these parts1 for if we read down the list of the tributes paid by different cities to the ,lords of ,mexico1 we find #bj chests of ground chocolate1 #bj bags of gold dust1 again #hj loads of red chocolate1 #bj lip-jewels of clear amber1 and yet again #bjj loads of chocolate4 #a ,prescott's ,conquest of ,mexico4 ,another people that share with the ,aztecs the honour of being the first great cultivators of cacao are the ,incas of ,peru1 that wonderful nation that knew not poverty4 ,the ,fascination of ,chocolate4 ,that chocolate charmed the ladies of ,mexico in the seventeenth century 7even as it charms the ladies of ,england to-day7 is shown by a story which ,gage relates in his ,new ,survey of the ,west ,indias 7#afdh74 ,he tells us that at ,chiapa1 southward from ,mexico1 the women used to interrupt both sermon and mass by having their maids bring them a cup of hot chocolate2 and when the ,bishop1 after fair warning1 excommunicated them for this presumption1 they changed their church4 ,the ,bishop1 he adds1 was poisoned for his pains4 ,cacao ,beans as ,money4 ,cacao was used by the ,aztecs not only for the preparation of a beverage1 but also as a circulating medium of exchange4 ,for example1 one could purchase a tolerably good slave for #ajj beans4 ,we read that3 ,their currency consisted of transparent quills of gold dust1 of bits of tin cut in the form of a ,t1 and of bags of cacao containing a specified number of grains4 ,blessed money1 exclaims ,peter ,martyr1 which exempts its possessor from avarice1 since it cannot be long hoarded1 nor hidden underground6 ,derivation of ,chocolate4 ,the word was derived from the ,mexican chocolatl4 ,the ,mexicans used to froth their chocolatl with curious whisks made specially for the purpose 7see page #f74 ,thomas ,gage suggests that choco1 choco1 choco is a vocal representation of the sound made by stirring chocolate4 ,the suffix atl means water4 ,according to ,mr4 ,w4,j4 ,gordon1 we owe the name of chocolate to a misprint4 ,he states that ,joseph ,acosta1 who wrote as early as #afjd of chocolatl1 was made by the printer to write chocolate1 from which the ,english eliminated the accent1 and the ,french the final letter4 ,illustration3 ,,native ,,american ,,indians ,,roasting ,,and ,,grinding ,,the ,,beans1 ,,and ,,mixing ,,the ,,chocolate ,,in ,a ,,jug ,,with ,a ,,whisk4 7,from ,ogilvy's ,america1 #afga7 ,first ,cacao in ,europe4 ,the ,spanish discoverers of the ,new ,world brought home to ,spain quantities of cacao1 which the curious tasted4 ,we may conclude that they drank the preparation cold1 as ,montezuma did1 hot chocolate being a later invention4 ,the new drink1 eagerly sought by some1 did not meet with universal approval1 and1 as was natural1 the most diverse opinions existed as to the pleasantness and wholesomeness of the beverage when it was first known4 ,thus ,joseph ,acosta 7#afjd7 wrote3 ,the chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke which they call ,chocholate1 whereof they make great account1 foolishly and without reason2 for it is loathsome to such as are not acquainted with it1 having a skumme or frothe that is very unpleasant to taste1 if they be not well conceited thereof4 ,yet it is a drincke very much esteemed among the ,indians1 whereof they feast noble men as they passe through their country4 ,the ,spaniards1 both men and women1 that are accustomed to the country are very greedy of this chocholate4 ,it is not impossible that the ,english1 with the defeat of the ,armada fresh in memory1 were at first contemptuous of this ,spanish drink4 ,certain it is1 that when ,british sea-rovers like ,drake and ,frobisher1 captured ,spanish galleons on the high seas1 and on searching their holds for treasure1 found bags of cacao1 they flung them overboard in scorn4 ,in considering this scorn of cacao1 shown alike by ,british buccaneers and ,dutch corsairs1 together with the critical air of ,joseph ,acosta1 we should remember that the original chocolatl of the ,mexicans consisted of a mixture of maize and cacao with hot spices like chillies1 and contained no sugar4 ,in this condition few inhabitants of the temperate zone could relish it4 ,it however only needed one thing1 the addition of sugar1 and the introduction of this marked the beginning of its ,european popularity4 ,the ,spaniards were the first to manufacture and drink chocolate in any quantity4 ,to this day they serve it in the old style--thick as porridge and pungent with spices4 ,they endeavoured to keep secret the method of preparation1 and1 without success1 to retain the manufacture as a monopoly4 ,chocolate was introduced into ,italy by ,carletti1 who praised it and spread the method of its manufacture abroad4 ,the new drink was introduced by monks from ,spain into ,germany and ,france1 and when in #affj ,maria ,theresa1 ,infanta of ,spain1 married ,louis ,,xiv1 she made chocolate well known at the ,court of ,france4 ,she it was of whom a ,french historian wrote that ,maria ,theresa had only two passions--the king and chocolate4 ,chocolate was advocated by the learned physicians of those times as a cure for many diseases1 and it was stated that ,cardinal ,richelieu had been cured of general atrophy by its use4 ,from ,france the use of chocolate spread into ,england1 where it began to be drunk as a luxury by the aristocracy about the time of the ,commonwealth4 ,it must have made some progress in public favour by #afgc1 for in that year a ,lover of his ,country wrote in the ,harleian ,miscellany demanding its prohibition 7along with brandy1 rum1 and tea7 on the ground that this imported article did no good and hindered the consumption of ,english-grown barley and wheat4 ,new things appeal to the imaginative1 and the absence of authentic knowledge concerning them allows free play to the imagination--so it happened that in the early days1 whilst many writers vied with one another in writing glowing panegyrics on cacao1 a few thought it an evil thing4 ,thus1 whilst it was praised by many for its wonderful faculty of quenching thirst1 allaying hectic heats1 of nourishing and fattening the body1 it was seriously condemned by others as an inflamer of the passions6 ,chocolate ,houses and ,clubs4 ,the drinking here of chocolate ,can make a fool a sophie4 ,in the spacious days of ,queen ,elizabeth1 tea1 coffee1 and chocolate were unknown save to travellers and savants1 and the handmaidens of the good queen drank beer with their breakfast4 ,when ,shakespeare and ,ben ,jonson forgathered at the ,mermaid ,tavern1 their winged words passed over tankards of ale1 but later other drinks became the usual accompaniment of news1 story1 and discussion4 ,in the sixteen-sixties there were no strident newspapers to destroy one's equanimity1 and the gossip of the day began to be circulated and discussed over cups of tea1 coffee1 or chocolate4 ,the humorists1 ever stirred by novelty1 tilted1 pen in hand1 at these new drinks3 thus one rhymster described coffee as ,syrrop of soot or essence of old shoes4 ,the first coffee-house in ,london was started in ,st4 ,michael's ,alley1 ,cornhill1 in #afeb 7when coffee was seven shillings a pound72 the first tea-house was opened in ,exchange ,alley in #afeg 7when tea was five sovereigns a pound71 and in the same year 7with chocolate about ten to fifteen shillings per pound7 a ,frenchman opened the first chocolate-house in ,queen's ,head ,alley1 ,bishopsgate ,street4 ,the rising popularity of chocolate led to the starting of more of these chocolate houses1 at which one could sit and sip chocolate1 or purchase the commodity for preparation at home4 ,pepys' entry in his diary for #bdth ,november1 #affd1 contains3 ,to a coffee house to drink jocolatte1 very good4 ,it is an artless entry1 and yet one can almost hear him smacking his lips4 ,silbermann says that ,after the ,restoration there were shops in ,london for the sale of chocolate at ten shillings or fifteen shillings per pound4 ,ozinda's chocolate house was full of aristocratic consumers4 ,comedies1 satirical essays1 memoirs and private letters of that age frequently mention it4 ,the habit of using chocolate was deemed a token of elegant and fashionable taste1 and while the charms of this beverage in the reigns of ,queen ,anne and ,george ,i4 were so highly esteemed by courtiers1 by lords and ladies and fine gentlemen in the polite world1 the learned physicians extolled its medicinal virtues4 ,from the coffee house and its more aristocratic relative the chocolate house1 there developed a new feature in ,english social life--the ,club4 ,as the years passed the ,chocolate ,house remained a rendezvous1 but the character of its habitues changed from time to time4 ,thus one1 famous in the days of ,queen ,anne1 and well known by its sign of the ,cocoa ,tree1 was at first the headquarters of the ,jacobite party1 and the resort of ,tories of the strictest school4 ,it became later a noted gambling house 7,the gamesters shook their elbows in ,white's and the chocolate houses round ,covent ,garden1 ,national ,review1 #ahgh71 and ultimately developed into a literary club1 including amongst its members ,gibbon1 the historian1 and ,byron1 the poet4 ,tax on ,cacao4 ,the growing consumption of chocolate did not escape the all-seeing eye of the ,chancellors of ,england4 ,as early as #affj we find amongst various custom and excise duties granted to ,charles ,,ii3 ,for every gallon of chocolate1 sherbet1 and tea made and sold1 to be paid by the maker thereof 44444 #h;d4 ,later the raw material was also made a source of revenue4 ,in ,the ,humble ,memorial of ,joseph ,fry1 of ,bristol1 ,maker of ,chocolate1 which was addressed to the ,lords ,commissioners of the ,treasury in #aggf 7,messrs4 ,fry and ,sons are the oldest ,english firm of chocolate makers1 having been founded in #agbh71 we read that ,chocolate 444 pays two shillings and threepence per pound excise1 besides about ten shillings per hundredweight on the ,cocoa ,nuts from which it is made4 ,in #aghd a preferential customs rate was proposed in favour of our ,colonies4 ,this they enjoyed for many years before #ahec1 when the uniform rate1 until recently in force1 was introduced4 ,this restrictive tariff on foreign growths rose in #ahjc to #es4 #aj;d4 per pound1 against #as4 #aj;d4 on cacao grown in ,british possessions4 ,from this date it gradually diminished4 ,high duties hampered for many years the sale of cocoa1 tea and coffee1 but in recent times these duties have been brought down to more reasonable figures4 ,for many years before #aiae the import duty was #a;d4 per pound on the raw cacao beans1 #a;d4 per pound on cacao butter1 and #bs4 a hundredweight 7less than a farthing a pound7 on cacao shells or husks4 ,in the ,budget of ,september1 #aiae1 the above duties were increased by fifty per cent4 ,a further and greater increase was made in the ,budget of ,april1 #aiaf1 when cacao was made to pay a higher tax in ,britain than in any other country in the world4 ,in #aiai ,imperial preference was introduced after a break of over sixty years1 the duty on cocoa from foreign countries being #c_/d;d4 a pound more than that from ,british ,possessions4 ,duty on ,cacao4 #ahee-aiae4 #aiae4 #aiaf4 #aiai4 ,cacao beans per lb4 #a;d4 #a-a_/b;d4 #f;d4 #d-a_/b;d4 foreign1 #c-c_/d;d4 ,british ,cacao butter per lb4 #a;d4 #a-a_/b;d4 #f;d4 #d-a_/b;d4 foreign1 #c-c_/d;d4 ,british ,cacao shells per cwt4 #bs4 #cs4 #abs4 #fs4 foreign1 #es4 ,british ,in considering this duty and its effect on the price of the finished article1 it should be remembered that there are substantial losses in manufacture4 ,thus the beans are cleaned1 which removes up to #j4e per cent42 roasted1 which causes a loss by volatilisation of #g per cent42 and shelled1 the husks being about #ab per cent4 ,therefore1 the actual yield of usable nib1 which has to bear the whole duty1 is about #hj per cent4 ,it may be well to add that the yield of cocoa powder is #dh per cent4 of the raw beans1 or roughly1 one pound of the raw product yields half a pound of the finished article4 ,introduction of ,cocoa ,powder4 ,the drink cocoa as we know it to-day was not introduced until #ahbh4 ,before this time the ground bean1 mixed with sugar1 was sold in cakes4 ,the beverage prepared from these chocolate cakes was very rich in butter1 and whilst the ,british ,navy has always consumed it in this condition 7the sailors generally remove with a spoon the excess of butter which floats to the top7 it is a little heavy for less hardy digestions4 ,van ,houten 7of the well-known ,dutch house of that name7 in #ahbh invented a method of pressing out part of the butter1 and thus obtained a lighter1 more appetising1 and more easily assimilated preparation4 ,as the butter is useful in chocolate manufacture1 this process enabled the manufacturer to produce a less costly cocoa powder1 and thus the circle of consumers was widened4 ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 of ,birmingham1 first sold their cocoa essence in #ahff1 and ,messrs4 ,fry and ,sons1 of ,bristol1 introduced a pure cocoa by pressing out part of the butter in #ahfh4 ,growing ,popularity of ,cacao ,preparations4 ,the incidence of import duties did not prevent the continuous increase in the amount of cacao consumed in the ,british ,isles4 ,when ,queen ,victoria came to the throne the cacao cleared for home consumption was about four or five thousand tons1 more than half of which was consumed by the ,navy4 ,at the time of ,queen ,victoria's death it had increased to four times this amount1 and by #aiae it had reached nearly fifty thousand tons4 7,for statistics of consumption1 see p4 #ahc74 99 99 99 99 99 ,this brief sketch of the history of cacao owes much to ,cocoa--all about it1 by ,historicus 7the pseudonym of the late ,richard ,cadbury74 ,this work is out of print1 but those who are fortunate enough to be able to consult it will find therein much that is curious and discursive4 ,illustration3 ,,ancient ,,mexican ,,drinking ,,cups 7,british ,museum7 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,cacao ,,and ,,its ,,cultivation ,o tree1 upraised in far-off ,mexico6 ,ode to the ,chocolate ,tree1 #affd4 ,how seldom do we think1 when we drink a cup of cocoa or eat some morsels of chocolate1 that our liking for these delicacies has set minds and bodies at work all the world over6 ,many types of humanity have contributed to their production4 ,picture in the mind's eye the graceful coolie in the sun-saturated tropics1 moving in the shade1 cutting the pods from the cacao tree2 the deep-chested sailor helping to load from lighters or surf-boats the precious bags of cacao into the hold of the ocean liner2 the skilful workman roasting the beans until they fill the room with a fine aroma2 and the girl with dexterous fingers packing the cocoa or fashioning the chocolate in curious1 and delicate forms4 ,to the black and brown races1 the negroes and the ,east ,indians1 we owe a debt for their work on tropical plantations1 for the harder manual work would be too arduous for ,europeans unused to the heat of those regions4 ,climate ,necessary4 ,cacao can only grow at tropical temperatures1 and when shielded from the wind and unimpaired by drought4 ,enthusiasts1 as a hobby1 have grown the tree under glass in ,england2 it requires a warmer temperature than either tea or coffee1 and only after infinite care can one succeed in getting the tree to flower and bear fruit4 ,the mean temperature in the countries in which it thrives is about #hj degrees ,f4 in the shade1 and the average of the maximum temperatures is seldom more than #ij degrees ,f41 or the average of the minimum temperatures less than #gj degrees ,f4 ,the rainfall can be as low as #de inches per annum1 as in the ,gold ,coast1 or as high as #aej inches1 as in ,java1 provided the fall is uniformly distributed4 ,the ideal spot is the secluded vale1 and whilst in ,venezuela there are plantations up to #bjjj feet above sea level1 cacao cannot generally be profitably cultivated above #ajjj feet4 ,factors of ,geographical ,distribution4 ,climate1 soil1 and manures determine the possible region of cultivation--the extent to which the area is utilised depends on the enterprise of man4 ,the original home of cacao was the rich tropical region1 far-famed in ,elizabethan days1 that lies between the ,amazon and the ,orinoco1 and but for the enterprise of man it is doubtful if it would have ever spread from this region4 ,monkeys often carry the beans many miles--man1 the master-monkey1 has carried them round the world4 ,first the ,indians spread cacao over the tropical belt of the ,american continent and cultivated it as far ,north as ,mexico4 ,then came the ,spanish explorers of the ,new ,world1 who carried it from the mainland to the adjacent ,west ,indian islands4 ,cacao was planted by them in ,trinidad as early as #aebe4 ,since that date it has been successfully introduced into many a tropical island4 ,it was an important day in the history of ,ceylon when ,sir ,r4 ,horton1 in #ahcd1 had cacao plants brought to that island from ,trinidad4 ,the carefully packed plants survived the ordeal of a voyage of ten thousand miles4 ,the most recent introduction is1 however1 the most striking4 ,about #ahhj a native of the ,gold ,coast obtained some beans1 probably from ,fernando ,po4 ,in #ahia1 the first bag of cacao was exported2 it weighed #hj pounds4 ,in #aiae1 #bd years later1 the export from the ,gold ,coast was #abj million pounds4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,tree1 ,,with ,,pods ,,and ,,leaves ,the ,cacao ,tree4 ,tropical vegetation appears so bizarre to the visitor from temperate climes that in such surroundings the cacao tree seems almost commonplace4 ,it is in appearance as moderate and unpretentious as an apple tree1 though somewhat taller1 being1 when full grown1 about twenty feet high4 ,it begins to bear in its fourth or fifth year4 ,smooth in its early youth1 as it gets older it becomes covered with little bosses 7cushions7 from which many flowers spring4 ,i saw one fellow1 very tall and gnarled1 and with many pods on it2 turning to the planter ,i enquired ,how old is that tree8 ,he replied1 almost reverentially3 ,it's a good deal older than ,i am2 must be at least fifty years old4 ,it's one of the tallest cacao trees ,i've seen4 ,i wonder--4 ,the planter perceived my thought1 and said3 ,i'll have it measured for you4 ,it was forty feet high4 ,that was a tall one2 usually they are not more than half that height4 ,the bark is reddish-grey1 and may be partly hidden by brown1 grey and green patches of lichen4 ,the bark is both beautiful and quaint1 but in the main the tree owes its beauty to its luxuriance of prosperous leaves1 and its quaintness to its pods4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,tree1 ,,showing ,,pods ,,growing ,,from ,,trunk4 ,illustration3 ,,flowers ,,and ,,fruits ,,on ,,main ,,branches ,,of ,a ,,cacao ,,tree4 7,reproduced from van ,hall's ,cocoa1 by permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan ,co474 ,the ,flowers1 ,leaves and ,fruit4 ,although cacao trees are not unlike the fruit trees of ,england1 there are differences which1 when first one sees them1 cause expressions of surprise and pleasure to leap to the lips4 ,one sees what one never saw before1 the fruit springing from the main trunk1 quite close to the ground4 ,an old writer has explained that this is due to a wise providence1 because the pod is so heavy that if it hung from the end of the branches it would fall off before it reached maturity4 ,the old writer talks of providence2 a modern writer would see in the same facts a simple example of evolution4 ,on the same cacao tree every day of the year may be found flowers1 young podkins and mature pods side by side4 ,i say found advisedly--at the first glance one does not see the flowers because they are so dainty and so small4 ,the buds are the size of rice grains1 and the flowers are not more than half an inch across when the petals are fully out4 ,the flowers are pink or yellow1 of wax-like appearance1 and have no odour4 ,they were commonly stated to be pollinated by thrips and other insects4 ,dr4 von ,faber of ,java has recently shown that whilst self-pollination is the rule1 cross fertilisation occurs between the flowers on adjacent or interlocking trees4 ,these graceful flowers are so small that one can walk through a plantation without observing them1 although an average tree will produce six thousand blossoms in a year4 ,not more than one per cent4 of these will become fruit4 ,usually it takes six months for the bud to develop into the mature fruit4 ,the lovely mosses that grow on the stems and branches are sometimes so thick that they have to be destroyed1 or the fragile cacao flower could not push its way through4 ,whilst the flowers are small1 the leaves are large1 being as an average about a foot in length and four inches in breadth4 ,the cacao tree never appears naked1 save on the rare occasions when it is stripped by the wind1 and the leaves are green all the year round1 save when they are red1 if the reader will pardon an ,hibernianism4 ,and indeed there is something contrary in the crimson tint1 for whilst we usually associate this with old leaves about to fall1 with the cacao1 as with some rose trees1 it is the tint of the young leaves4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,pods4 ,the ,cacao ,pod4 ,the fruit1 which hangs on a short thick stalk1 may be anything in shape from a melon to a stumpy1 irregular cucumber1 according to the botanic variety4 ,the intermediate shape is like a lemon1 with furrows from end to end4 ,there are pods1 called ,calabacillo1 smooth and ovate like a calabash1 and there are others1 more rare1 so nobbly that they are well-named ,alligator4 ,the pods vary in length from five to eleven inches1 with here and there the great pod of all1 the blood-red sangre-tora4 ,the colours of the pods are as brilliant as they are various4 ,they are rich and strong1 and resemble those of the rind of the pomegranate4 ,one pod shows many shades of dull crimson1 another grades from gold to the yellow of leather1 and yet another is all lack-lustre pea-green4 ,they may be likened to ,chinese lanterns hanging in the woods4 ,one does not conclude from the appearance of the pod that the contents are edible1 any more than one would surmise that tea-leaves could be used to produce a refreshing drink4 ,i say as much to the planter1 who smiles4 ,with one deft cut with his machete or cutlass1 which hangs in a leather scabbard by his side1 the planter severs the pod from the tree1 and with another slash cuts the thick1 almost woody rind and breaks open the pod4 ,there is disclosed a mass of some thirty or forty beans1 covered with juicy pulp4 ,the inside of the rind and the mass of beans are gleaming white1 like melting snow4 ,sometimes the mass is pale amethyst in colour4 ,i perceive a pleasant odour resembling melon4 ,like little ,jack ,horner1 ,i put in my thumb and pull out a snow-white bean4 ,it is slippery to hold1 so ,i put it in my mouth4 ,the taste is sweet1 something between grape and melon4 ,inside this fruity coating is the bean proper4 ,from different pods we take beans and cut them in two1 and find that the colour of the bean varies from purple almost to white4 ,illustration3 ,,cut ,,pod1 ,,revealing ,,the ,,white ,,pulp ,,round ,,the ,,beans 7,,ceylon47 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,pods1 ,,shewing ,,beans ,,inside4 ,botanical ,description4 ,theobroma ,cacao belongs to the family of the ,sterculiaceae1 and to the same order as the ,limes and ,mallows4 ,it is described in ,strasburger's admirable ,text-,book of ,botany as follows3 ,family4 ,sterculiaceae4 ,,important ,,genera4 ,the most important plant is the ,cocoa ,tree 7,theobroma ,cacao74 ,it is a low tree with short-stalked1 firm1 brittle1 simple leaves of large size1 oval shape1 and dark green colour4 ,the young leaves are of a bright red colour1 and1 as in many tropical trees1 hang limply downwards4 ,the flowers are borne on the main stem or the older branches1 and arise from dormant axillary buds 7,cauliflory74 ,each petal is bulged up at the base1 narrows considerably above this1 and ends in an expanded tip4 ,the form of the reddish flowers is thus somewhat urn-shaped with five radiating points4 ,the pentalocular ovary has numerous ovules in each loculus4 ,as the fruit develops1 the soft tissue of the septa extends between the single seeds2 the ripe fruit is thus unilocular and many-seeded4 ,the seed-coat is filled by the embryo1 which has two large1 folded1 brittle cotyledons4 ,the last sentence conveys an erroneous impression4 ,the two cotyledons1 which form the seed1 are not brittle when found in nature in the pod4 ,they are juicy and fleshy4 ,and it is only after the seed has received special treatment 7fermentation and drying7 to obtain the bean of commerce1 that it becomes brittle4 ,varieties of ,theobroma ,cacao4 ,as mentioned above1 the pods and seeds of ,theobroma ,cacao trees show a marked variation1 and in every country the botanist has studied these variations and classified the trees according to the shape and colour of the pods and seeds4 ,the existence of so many classifications has led to a good deal of confusion1 and we are indebted to ,van ,hall for the simplest way of clearing up these difficulties4 ,he accepts the classification first given by ,morris1 dividing the trees into two varieties--,criollo and ,forastero3 ,illustration3 ,,drawings ,,of ,,typical ,,pods1 illustrating varieties4 ,,criollo ,,forastero ,,forastero 7,,calabacillo ,,variety7 ,extremes of ,characteristics4 ,criollo4 ,forastero4 7,old ,red1 ,caracas1 etc47 ,grading from ,cundeamor 7bottle-necked7 to ,calabacillo 7smooth74 ,pod walls4 ,thin and warty4 ,thick and woody4 ,beans4 ,large and plump4 ,small and flat4 ,white4 ,heliotrope to purple4 ,sweet4 ,astringent4 ,the cacao of the criollo variety has pods the walls of which are thin and warty1 with ten distinct furrows4 ,the seeds or beans are white as ivory throughout1 round and plump1 and sweet to taste4 ,the forastero variety includes many sub-varieties1 the kind most distinct from the criollo having pods1 the walls of which are thick and woody1 the surface smooth1 the furrows indistinct1 and the shape globular4 ,the seeds in these pods are purple in colour1 flat in appearance1 and bitter to taste4 ,this is a very convenient classification4 ,personally ,i believe it would be possible to find pods varying by almost imperceptible gradations from the finest1 purest1 criollo to the lowest form of forastero 7namely1 calabacillo74 ,the criollo yields the finest and rarest kind of cacao1 but as sometimes happens with refined types in nature1 it is a rather delicate tree1 especially liable to canker and bark diseases1 and this accounts for the predominance of the forastero in the cacao plantations of the world4 ,the ,cacao ,plantation4 ,one can spend happy days on a cacao estate4 ,are you going into the cocoa8 they ask1 just as in ,england we might enquire1 ,are you going into the corn8 ,illustration3 ,,tropical ,,forest1 ,,trinidad4 ,this has to be cleared before planting begins4 ,coconut plantations and sugar estates make a strong appeal to the imagination1 but for peaceful beauty they cannot compare with the cacao plantation4 ,true1 coconut plantations are very lovely--the palms are so graceful1 the leaves against the sky so like a fine etching--but the slender coco's drooping crown of plumes is altogether foreign to ,english eyes4 ,sugar estates are generally marred by the prosaic factory in the background4 ,they are dead level plains1 and the giant grass affords no shade from the relentless sun4 ,whereas the leaves of the cacao tree are large and numerous1 so that even in the heat of the day1 it is comparatively cool and pleasant under the cacao4 ,cacao plantations present in different countries every variety of appearance--from that of a wild forest in which the greater portion of the trees are cacao1 to the tidy and orderly plantation4 ,in some of the ,trinidad plantations the trees are planted in parallel lines twelve feet apart1 with a tree every twelve feet along the line2 and as you push your way through the plantation the apparently irregularly scattered trees are seen to flash momentarily into long lines4 ,in other parts of the world1 for example1 in ,grenada and ,surinam1 the ground may be kept so tidy and free from weeds that they have the appearance of gardens4 ,clearing the ,land4 ,when the planter has chosen a suitable site1 an exercise requiring skill1 the forest has to be cleared4 ,the felling of great trees and the clearing of the wild tangle of undergrowth is arduous work4 ,it is well to leave the trees on the ridges for about sixty feet on either side1 and thus form a belt of trees to act as wind screen4 ,cacao trees are as sensitive to a draught as some human beings1 and these wind breaks are often deliberately grown--,balata1 ,poui1 ,mango 7,trinidad71 ,galba 7,grenada71 ,wild ,pois ,doux 7,martinique71 and other leafy trees being suitable for this purpose4 ,suitable ,soil4 ,it was for many years believed that if a tree were analysed the best soil for its growth could at once be inferred and described1 as it was assumed that the best soil would be one containing the same elements in similar proportions4 ,this simple theory ignored the characteristic powers of assimilation of the tree in question and the digestibility of the soil constituents4 ,however1 it is agreed that soils rich in potash and lime 7e4g41 those obtained by the decomposition of certain volcanic rocks7 are good for cacao4 ,an open sandy or loamy alluvial soil is considered ideal4 ,the physical condition of the soil is equally important3 heavy clays or water-logged soils are bad4 ,the depth of soil required depends on its nature4 ,a stiff soil discourages the growth of the tap root1 which in good porous soils is generally seven or eight feet long4 ,illustration3 ,,characteristic ,,root ,,system ,,of ,,the ,,cacao ,,tree4 ,note the long tap root4 7,reproduced from the ,imperial ,institute series of ,handbooks to the ,commercial ,resources of the ,tropics1 by permission47 ,manure4 ,the greater part of the world's cacao is produced without the use of artificial manures4 ,the soil1 which is continually washed down by the rains into the rivers1 is continually renewed by decomposition of the bed rock1 and in the tropics this decomposition is more rapid than in temperate climes4 ,in ,guayaquil1 notwithstanding the fact that the same soil has been cropped consecutively for over a hundred years1 there is as yet no sign of decadence1 nor does a necessity yet arise for artificial manure4#a ,however1 manures are useful with all soils1 and necessary with many4 ,happy is the planter who is so placed that he can obtain a plentiful supply of farmyard or pen manure1 as this gives excellent results4 ,mulching is also recommended4 ,this consists of covering the ground with decaying leaves1 grasses1 etc41 which keep the soil in a moist and open condition during the dry season4 ,if artificial manures are used they should vary according to the soil1 and1 although he can obtain considerable help from the analyst1 the planter's most reliable guide will be experiment on the spot4 #a ,bulletin1 ,botanic ,dept41 ,jamaica1 ,february1 #aijj4 ,planting4 ,in the past insufficient care has been taken in the selection of seed4 ,the planter should choose the large plump beans with a pale interior1 or he should choose the nearest kind to this that is sufficiently hardy to thrive in the particular environment4 ,he can plant 7#a7 direct from seeds1 or 7#b7 from seedlings--plants raised in nurseries in bamboo pots1 or 7#c7 by grafting or budding4 ,it is usual to plant two or three seeds in each hole1 and destroy the weaker plants when about a foot high4 ,the seeds are planted from twelve to fifteen feet apart4 ,the distance chosen depends chiefly on the richness of the soil2 the richer the soil1 the more ample room is allowed for the trees to spread without choking each other4 ,interesting results have been obtained by ,hart and others by grafting the fine but tender criollo on to the hardy forastero1 but until yesterday the practice had not been tried on a large scale4 ,experiments were begun in #aiac by ,mr4 ,w4,g4 ,freeman in ,trinidad which promise interesting results4 ,by #aiai the ,department of ,agriculture had seven acres in grafted and budded cacao4 ,in a few years it should be possible to say whether it pays to form an estate of budded cacao in preference to using seedlings4 ,illustration3 ,,nursery1 ,,with ,,the ,,young ,,cacao ,,plants ,,in ,,baskets1 ,,java4 7,reproduced from van ,hall's ,cocoa1 by permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan ,co474 ,illustration3 ,,planting ,,cacao1 ,,trinidad1 ,,from ,,young ,,seedlings ,,in ,,bamboo ,,pots4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,in ,,its ,,fourth ,,year 7,,samoa74 ,there are no longer any mystic rites performed before planting4 ,in the old days it was the custom to solemnize the planting1 for example1 by sacrificing a cacao-coloured dog 7see ,bancroft's ,native ,races of the ,pacific ,states47 ,shade3 ,temporary and ,permanent4 ,illustration3 ,,copy ,,of ,,an ,,old ,,engraving ,,showing ,,the ,,cacao ,,tree1 ,,and ,a ,,tree ,,shading ,,it4 7,from ,bontekoe's ,works47 ,when the seeds are planted1 such small plants as cassava1 chillies1 pigeon peas and the like are planted with them4 ,the object of planting these is to afford the young cacao plant shelter from the sun1 and to keep the ground in good condition4 ,incidentally the planter obtains cassava 7which gives tapioca71 red peppers1 etc41 as a catch crop whilst he is waiting for the cacao tree to begin to yield4 ,bananas and plantains are planted with the same object1 and these are allowed to remain for a longer period4 ,such is the rapidity of plant growth in the tropics that in three or four years the cacao tree is taller than a man1 and begins to bear fruit in its fourth or fifth year4 ,now it is agreed that1 as with men1 the cacao tree needs protection in its youth1 but whether it needs shade trees when it is fully grown is one of the controverted questions4 ,when the planter is sitting after his day's work is done1 and no fresh topic comes to his mind1 he often re-opens the discussion on the question of shade4 ,the idea that cacao trees need shade is a very ancient one1 as is shown in a very old drawing 7possibly the oldest drawing of cacao extant7 beneath which it is written3 ,of the tree which bears cacao1 which is money1 and how the ,indians obtained fire with two pieces of wood4 ,in this drawing you will observe how lovingly the shade tree shelters the cacao4 ,the intention in using shade is to imitate the natural forest conditions in which the wild cacao grew4 ,sometimes when clearing the forest certain large trees are left standing1 but more frequently and with better judgment1 chosen kinds are planted4 ,many trees have been used3 the saman1 bread fruit1 mango1 mammet1 sand box1 pois doux1 rubber1 etc4 ,in the illustration showing kapok acting as a parasol for cacao in ,java1 we see that the proportion of shade trees to cacao is high4 ,leguminous trees are preferred because they conserve the nitrogen in the soil4 ,hence in ,trinidad the favourite shade tree is ,erythrina or ,bois ,immortel 7so called1 a humourist suggests1 because it is short-lived74 ,it is also rather prettily named1 ,mother of ,cacao4 ,usually the shade trees are planted about #dj feet apart1 but there are cacao plantations which might cause a stranger to enquire1 ,is this an ,immortel plantation8 so closely are these conspicuous trees planted4 ,when looking down a ,trinidad valley1 richly planted with cacao1 one sees in every direction the silver-grey trunks of the ,immortel4 ,in the early months of the year these trees have no leaves1 they are a mass of flame-coloured flowers1 each shafted like a scimitar4 ,it well repays the labour of climbing a hill to look down on this vermilion glory4 ,some ,trinidad planters believe that their trees would die without shade1 yet in ,grenada1 only a hundred miles ,north as the steamer sails1 there are whole plantations without a single shade tree4 ,the ,grenadians say3 ,you cannot have pods without flowers1 and you cannot have good flowering without light and air4 ,shade trees are not used on some estates in ,san ,thome1 and in ,brazil there are cocoa kings with #bjj1jjj trees without one shade tree4 ,it should be mentioned1 however1 that in these countries the cacao trees are planted more closely 7about eight feet apart7 and themselves shade the soil4 ,professor ,carmody1 in reporting#b recently on the result of a four years' experiment with 7#a7 shade1 7#b7 no shade1 7#c7 partial shade1 says that so far partial shade has given the best results4 ,no general solution has yet been found to the question of the advantage of shade1 and1 as ,shaw states for morality1 so in agriculture1 the golden rule is that there is no golden rule4 ,not only is there the personal factor1 but nature provides an infinite variety of environments1 and the best results are obtained by the use of methods appropriate to the local conditions4 #b ,bulletin ,dept4 of ,agriculture1 ,trinidad1 #aiaf4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,trees1 ,,shaded ,,by ,,kapok 7,eriodendron ,anfractuosum7 ,,in ,,java4 7reproduced from van ,hall's ,cocoa1 by permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan ,co47 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,trees1 ,,shaded ,,by ,,bois ,,immortel1 ,,trinidad4 ,form of ,tree-growth ,desired3 ,suckers4 ,viscount ,mountmorres1 in a delightfully clear exposition of cacao cultivation which he gave to the native farmers and chiefs of the ,gold ,coast in #aijf1 said3 ,in pruning1 it is necessary always to bear in mind that the best shape for cacao trees is that of an enlarged open umbrella1 with a height under the umbrella not exceeding seven feet4 ,with this ideal in his mind1 the planter should train up the tree in the way it should go4 ,viscount ,mountmorres also said that everything that grows upwards1 except the main stem1 must be cut off4 ,this opens a question which is of great interest to planters as to whether it is wise to allow shoots to grow out from the main trunk near the ground4 ,some hold that the high yield on their plantation is due to letting these upright shoots grow4 ,mi ,amigo ,corsicano said3 ',diavolo1 let the cacao-trees grow1 let them branch off like any other fruit-tree1 say the tamarind1 the 'chupon' or sucker will in time bear more than its mother4'#c ,there seems to be some evidence that old trees profit from the chupons because they continue to bear when the old trunk is weary1 but this is compensated for by the fact that the chupons 7,portuguese for suckers7 were grown at the expense of the tree in its youth4 ,hence other planters call them thieves1 and gormandizers1 saying that they suck the sap from the tree1 turning all to wood4 ,they follow the advice given as early as #agcj by the author of ,the ,natural ,history of ,chocolate1 when he says3 ,cut or lop off the suckers4 ,in ,trinidad1 experiments have been started1 and after a five years' test1 ,professor ,carmody says that the indications are that it is a matter of indifference whether chupons are allowed to grow or not4 #c ,how ,jose formed his ,cocoa ,estate4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,tree1 ,,with ,,suckers1 ,,trinidad4 ,after hunting1 agriculture is man's oldest industry1 and improvements come but slowly1 for the proving of a theory often requires work on a huge scale carried out for several decades4 ,the husbandry of the earth goes on from century to century with little change1 and the methods followed are the winnowings of experience1 tempered with indolence4 ,and even with the bewildering progress of science in other directions1 sound improvements in this field are rare discoveries4 ,there is great scope for the application of physical and chemical knowledge to the production of the raw materials of the tropics4 ,in one or two instances notable advances have been made1 thus the direct production of a white sugar 7as now practised at ,java7 at the tropical factory will have far-reaching effects1 but with many tropical products the methods practised are as ancient as they are haphazard4 ,like all methods founded on long experience1 they suit the environment and the temperament of the people who use them1 so that the work of the scientist in introducing improvements requires intimate knowledge of the conditions if his suggestions are to be adopted4 ,the various ,departments of ,agriculture are doing splendid pioneer work1 but the full harvest of their sowing will not be reaped until the number of tropically-educated agriculturists has been increased by the founding of three or four agricultural colleges and research laboratories in equatorial regions4 ,there is much research to be done4 ,as yet1 however1 many planters are ignorant of all that is already established1 the facilities for education in tropical agriculture being few and far between4 ,there are signs1 however1 of development in this direction4 ,it is pleasant to note that a start was made in ,ceylon at the end of #aiag by opening an agricultural school at ,peradenija4 ,trinidad has for a number of years had an agricultural school1 and is eager to have a college devoted to agriculture4 ,in #aiai1 ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros4 gave ,l#ejjj to form the nucleus of a special educational fund for the ,gold ,coast4 ,the scientists attached to the several government agricultural departments in ,java1 ,ceylon1 ,trinidad1 the ,philippines1 ,africa1 etc41 have done splendid work1 but it is desirable that the number of workers should be increased4 ,when the world wakes up to the importance of tropical produce1 agricultural colleges will be scattered about the tropics1 so that every would-be planter can learn his subject on the spot4 ,illustration3 ,,cutlassing4 ,diseases of the ,cacao ,tree4 ,take1 for example1 the case of the diseases of plants4 ,everyone who takes an interest in the garden knows how destructive the insect pests and vegetable parasites can be4 ,in the tropics their power for destruction is very great1 and they are a constant menace to economic products like cacao4 ,the importance of understanding their habits1 and of studying methods of keeping them in check1 is readily appreciated2 the planter may be ruined by lacking this knowledge4 ,the cacao tree has been improved and domesticated to satisfy human requirements1 a process which has rendered it weaker to resist attacks from pests and parasites4 ,it is usual to classify man amongst the pests1 as either from ignorance or by careless handling he can do the tree much harm4 ,other animal pests are the wanton thieves3 monkeys1 squirrels and rats1 who destroy more fruit than they consume4 ,the insect pests include varieties of beetles1 thrips1 aphides1 scale insects and ants1 whilst fungi are the cause of the ,canker in the stem and branches1 the ,witch-broom disease in twigs and leaves1 and the ,black ,rot of pods4 ,the subject is too immense to be summarised in a few lines1 and ,i recommend readers who wish to know more of this or other division of the science of cacao cultivation1 to consult one or more of the four classics in ,english on this subject3 ,cocoa1 by ,herbert ,wright 7,ceylon71 #aijg4 ,cacao1 by ,j4 ,hinchley ,hart 7,trinidad71 #aiaa4 ,cocoa1 by ,w4,h4 ,johnson 7,nigeria71 #aiab4 ,cocoa1 by ,c4,j4,j4 van ,hall 7,java71 #aiad4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,harvesting ,,and ,,preparation ,,for ,,the ,,market ,the picking1 gathering1 and breaking of the cacao are the easiest jobs on the plantation4 ,how ,jose formed his ,cocoa ,estate4 ,gathering and ,heaping4 ,illustration ,in the last chapter ,i gave a brief account of the cultivation of cacao4 ,i did not deal with forking1 spraying1 cutlassing1 weeding1 and so forth1 as it would lead us too far into purely technical discussions4 ,i propose we assume that the planter has managed his estate well1 and that the plantation is before us looking very healthy and full of fruit waiting to be picked4 ,the question arises3 ,how shall we gather it8 ,shall we shake the tree8 ,cacao pods do not fall off the tree even when over-ripe4 ,shall we knock off or pluck the pods8 ,to do so would make a scar on the trunk of the tree1 and these wounds are dangerous in tropical climates1 as they are often attacked by canker4 ,a sharp machete or cutlass is used to cut off the pods which grow on the lower part of the trunk4 ,as the tree is not often strong enough to bear a man1 climbing is out of the question1 and a knife on a pole is used for cutting off the pods on the upper branches4 ,various shaped knives are used by different planters1 a common and efficient kind 7see drawing71 resembles a hand of steel1 with the thumb as a hook1 so that the pod-stalk can be cut either by a push or a pull4 ,a good deal of ingenuity has been expended in devising a foolproof picker which shall render easy the cutting of the pod-stalk and yet not cut or damage the bark of the tree4 ,a good example is the ,agostini picker1 which was approved by ,hart4 ,illustration3 7#a7 ,,common ,,type ,,of ,,cacao ,,picker4 7#b7 ,,agostini ,,cacao ,,picker4 ,the gathering of the fruits of one's labour is a pleasant task1 which occurs generally only at rare intervals4 ,cacao is gathered the whole year round4 ,there is1 however1 in most districts one principal harvest period1 and a subsidiary harvest4 ,illustration3 ,,gathering ,,cacao ,,pods1 ,,trinidad4 ,with cacao in the tropics1 as with corn in ,england1 the gathering of the harvest is a delight to lovers of the beautiful4 ,it is a great charm of the cacao plantation that the trees are so closely planted that nowhere does the sunlight find between the foliage a space larger than a man's hand4 ,after the universal glare outside1 it seems dark under the cacao1 although the ground is bright with dappled sunshine4 ,you hear a noise of talking1 of rustling leaves1 and falling pods4 ,you come upon a band of coolies or negroes4 ,one near you carries a long bamboo--as long as a fishing rod--with a knife at the end4 ,with a lithe movement he inserts it between the boughs1 and1 by giving it a sharp jerk1 neatly cuts the stalk of a pod1 which falls from the tree to the ground4 ,only the ripe pods must be picked4 ,to do this1 not only must the picker's aim be true1 but he must also have a good eye for colour4 ,whether the pods be red or green1 as soon as the colour begins to be tinted with yellow it is ripe for picking4 ,this change occurs first along the furrows in the pod4 ,fewer unripe pods would be gathered if only one kind of pod were grown on one plantation4 ,the confusion of kinds and colours which is often found makes sound judgment very difficult4 ,that the men generally judge correctly the ripeness of pods high in the trees is something to wonder at4 ,the pickers pass on1 strewing the earth with ripe pods4 ,they are followed by the graceful1 dark-skinned girls1 who gather one by one the fallen pods from the greenery1 until their baskets are full4 ,sometimes a basketful is too heavy and the girl cannot comfortably lift it on to her head1 but when one of the men has helped her to place it there1 she carries it lightly enough4 ,she trips through the trees1 her bracelets jingling1 and tumbles the pods on to the heap4 ,once one has seen a great heap of cacao pods it glows in one's memory3 anything more rich1 more daring in the way of colour one's eye is unlikely to light on4 ,the artist1 seeking only an aesthetic effect would be content with this for the consummation and would wish the pods to remain unbroken4 ,illustration3 ,,collecting ,,cacao ,,pods ,,into ,a ,,heap ,,prior ,,to ,,breaking4 ,breaking and ,extracting4 ,there are planters who believe that the product is improved by leaving the gathered pods several days before breaking2 and they would follow the practice1 but for the risk of losses by theft4 ,hence the pods are generally broken on the same day as they are gathered4 ,the primitive methods of breaking with a club or by banging on a hard surface are happily little used4 ,masson of ,new ,york made pod-breaking machines1 and ,sir ,george ,watt has recently invented an ingenious machine for squeezing the beans out of the pod1 but at present the extraction is done almost universally by hand1 either by men or women4 ,a knife which would cut the husk of the pod and was so constructed that it could not injure the beans within1 would be a useful invention4 ,the human extractor has the advantage that he or she can distinguish the diseased1 unripe or germinated beans and separate them from the good ones4 ,picture the men sitting round the heap of pods and1 farther out1 in a larger circle1 twice as many girls with baskets4 ,the man breaks the pod and the girls extract the beans4 ,the man takes the pod in his left hand and gives it a sharp slash with a small cutlass1 just cutting through the tough shell of the pod1 but not into the beans inside2 and then gives the blade1 which he has embedded in the shell1 a twisting jerk1 so that the pod breaks in two with a crisp crack4 ,the girls take the broken pods and scoop out the snow-like beans with a flat wooden spoon or a piece of rib-bone1 the beans being pulled off the stringy core 7or placenta7 which holds them together4 ,the beans are put preferably into baskets or1 failing these1 on to broad banana leaves1 which are used as trays4 ,practice renders these processes cheerful and easy work1 often performed to an accompaniment of laughing and chattering4 ,illustration3 ,,men ,,breaking ,,pods1 ,,girls ,,scooping ,,out ,,beans1 ,,and ,,mules ,,waiting ,,with ,,baskets ,,to ,,convey ,,the ,,cacao ,,to ,,the ,,fermentary4 ,fermenting4 ,i allow myself the pleasure of thinking that ,i am causing some of my readers a little surprise when ,i tell them that cacao is fermented1 and that the fermentation produces alcohol4 ,as ,i mentioned above1 the cacao bean is covered with a fruity pulp4 ,the bean as it comes from the pod is moist1 whilst the pulp is full of juice4 ,it would be impossible to convey it to ,europe in this condition2 it would decompose1 and1 when it reached its destination1 would be worthless4 ,in order that a product can be handled commercially it is desirable to have it in such a condition that it does not change1 and thus with cacao it becomes necessary to get rid of the pulp1 and1 whilst this may be done by washing or simply by drying1 experience has shown that the finest and driest product is obtained when the drying is preceded by fermentation4 ,just as broken grapes will ferment1 so will the fruity pulp of the cacao bean4 ,present day fermentaries are simply convenient places for storing the cacao whilst the process goes on4 ,in the process of fermentation1 ,dr4 ,chittenden says the beans are stewed in their own juice4 ,this may be expressed less picturesquely but more accurately by saying the beans are warmed by the heat of their own fermenting pulp1 from which they absorb liquid4 ,in ,trinidad the cacao which the girls have scooped out into the baskets is emptied into larger baskets1 two of which are crooked on a mule's back1 and carried thus to the fermentary4 ,in ,surinam it is conveyed by boat1 and in ,san ,thome by trucks1 which run on ,decauville railways4 ,the period of fermentation and the receptacle to hold the cacao vary from country to country4 ,with cacao of the criollo type only one or two days fermentation is required1 and as a result1 in ,ecuador and ,ceylon1 the cacao is simply put in heaps on a suitable floor4 ,in ,trinidad and the majority of other cacao-producing areas1 where the forastero variety predominates1 from five to nine days are required4 ,the cacao is put into the sweat boxes and covered with banana or plantain leaves to keep in the heat4 ,the boxes may measure four feet each way and be made of sweet-smelling cedar wood4 ,as is usual with fermentation1 the temperature begins to rise1 and if you thrust your hands into the fermenting beans you find they are as hot and mucilaginous as a poultice4 ,illustration3 ,,sweating ,,boxes1 ,,trinidad4 ,the man is holding the wooden spade used for turning the beans4 ,time4 ,temperature4 ,when put in #be deg4 ,c4 or #gg deg4 ,f4 ,after #a day #cj deg4 ,c4 or #hi deg4 ,f4 ,after #b days #cg deg4 ,c4 or #ih deg4 ,f4 ,after #c days #dg deg4 ,c4 or #aae deg4 ,f4 7,after the third day the heat is maintained1 but the temperature rises very little47 ,the temperature is the simplest guide to the amount of fermentation taking place1 and the uniformity of the temperature in all parts of the mass is desirable1 as showing that all parts are fermenting evenly4 ,the cacao is usually shovelled from one box to another every one or two days4 ,the chief object of this operation is to mix the cacao and prevent merely local fermentation4 ,to make mixing easy one ingenious planter uses a cylindrical vessel which can be turned about on its axis4 ,illustration3 ,,fermenting ,,boxes1 ,,java4 ,from the last box the beans are shovelled into the washing basin4 7,reproduced from van ,hall's ,cocoa1 by permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan ,co47 ,in other places1 for example in ,java1 the boxes are arranged as a series of steps1 so that the cacao is transferred with little labour from the higher to the lower4 ,in ,san ,thome the cacao is placed on the plantation direct into trucks1 which are covered with plaintain leaves1 and run on rails through the plantation right into the fermentary4 ,some day some enterprising firm will build a fermentary in portable sections easily erected1 and with some simple mechanical mixer to replace the present laborious method of turning the beans by manual labour4 ,the general conditions#a for a good fermentation are3 7#a7 ,the mass of beans must be kept warm4 7#b7 ,the mass of beans must be moist1 but not sodden4 7#c7 ,in the later stages there must be sufficient air4 7#d7 ,the boxes must be kept clean4 #a ,for full details see the pamphlet by the author on ,the ,practice of ,fermentation in ,trinidad4 ,changes during ,fermentation4 ,no entirely satisfactory theory of the changes in cacao due to fermentation has yet been established4 ,it is known that the sugary pulp outside the beans ferments in a similar way to other fruit pulp1 save that for a yeast fermentation the temperature rises unusually high 7in three days to #dg degrees ,c471 and also that there are parallel and more important changes in the interior of the bean4 ,the difficulty of establishing a complete theory of fermentation of cacao has not daunted the scientists1 for they know that the roses of philosophy are gathered by just those who can grasp the thorniest problems4 ,success1 however1 is so far only partial1 as can be seen by consulting the best introduction on the subject1 the admirable collection of essays on ,the ,fermentation of ,cacao1 edited by ,h4 ,hamel ,smith4 ,here the reader will find the valuable contributions of ,fickendey1 ,loew1 ,nicholls1 ,preyer1 ,schulte im ,hofe1 and ,sack4 ,the obvious changes which occur in the breaking down of the fruity exterior of the bean should be carefully distinguished from the subtle changes in the bean itself4 ,let us consider them separately3-- 7a7 ,changes in the ,pulp4--,just as grape-pulp ferments and changes to wine1 and just as weak wine if left exposed becomes sour2 so the fruity sugary pulp outside the cacao bean on exposure gives off bubbles of carbon dioxide1 becomes alcoholic1 and later becomes acid4 ,the acid produced is generally the pleasant vinegar acid 7acetic acid71 but under some circumstances it may be lactic acid1 or the rancid-smelling butyric acid4 ,kismet6 ,the planter trusts to nature to provide the right kind of fermentation4 ,this fermentation is set up and carried on by the minute organisms 7yeasts1 bacteria1 etc471 which chance to fall on the beans from the air or come from the sides of the receptacle4 ,one yeast-cell does not make a fermentation1 and as no yeast is added a day is wasted whilst any yeasts which happen to be present are multiplying to an army large enough to produce a visible effect on the pulp4 ,any organism which happens to be on the pod1 in the air1 or on the inside of the fermentary will multiply in the pulp1 if the pulp contains suitable nourishment4 ,each kind of organism produces its own characteristic changes4 ,it would thus appear a miracle if the same substances were always produced4 ,yet1 just as grape-juice left exposed to every micro-organism of the air1 generally changes in the direction of wine more or less good1 so the pulp of cacao tends1 broadly speaking1 to ferment in one way4 ,it would1 however1 be a serious error to assume that exactly the same kind of fermentation takes place in any two fermentaries in the world1 and the maximum variation must be considerable4 ,as the pulp ferments1 it is destroyed2 it gradually changes from white to brown1 and a liquid 7sweatings7 flows away from it4 ,the sweatings taste like sweet cider4 ,at present this is allowed to run away through holes in the bottom of the box1 and no care is taken to preserve what may yet become a valuable by-product4 ,i found by experiment that in the preparation of one cwt4 of dry beans about #a-a_/b gallons of this unstable liquid are produced4 ,in other words1 some seven or eight million gallons of sweatings run to waste every year4 ,in most cases only small quantities are produced in one place at one time4 ,this1 and the lack of knowledge of scientifically controlled fermentation1 and the difficulty of bottling1 prevent the starting of an industry producing either a new drink or a vinegar4 ,the cacao juice or sweatings contains about fifteen per cent4 of solids1 about half of which consists of sugars4 ,if the fermentation of the cacao were centralised in the various districts1 and conducted on a large scale under a chemist's control1 the sugars could be obtained1 or an alcoholic liquid or a vinegar could easily be prepared4 ,illustration3 ,,charging ,,the ,,cacao ,,on ,,to ,,trucks ,,in ,,the ,,plantation1 ,,san ,,thome4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,in ,,the ,,fermenting ,,trucks1 ,,san ,,thome4 ,the covering of banana leaves keeps the beans warm4 ,the planter decides when the beans are fermented by simply looking at them2 he judges their condition by the colour of the pulp4 ,when they are ready to be removed from the fermentary they are plump1 and brown without1 and juicy within4 7b7 ,changes in the ,interior of the ,bean4--,what is the relation between the comparatively simple fermentation of the pulp and the changes in the interior of the bean8 ,this important question has not yet been answered1 although a number of attempts have been made4 ,as far as is known1 the living ferments 7micro-organisms7 do not penetrate the skin of the bean1 so that any fermentation which takes place must be promoted by unorganised ferments 7or enzymes74 ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,brill#b found raffinase1 invertase1 casease and protease in the pulp2 oxidase1 raffinase1 casease and emulsinlike enzymes in the fresh bean2 and all these six1 together with diastase1 in the fermented bean4 ,dr4 ,fickendey says3 ,the object of fermentation is1 in the main1 to kill the germ of the bean in such a manner that the efficiency of the unorganised ferment is in no way impaired4 #b ,philippine ,journal of ,science1 #aiag4 ,from my own observations ,i believe that forastero beans are killed at #dg degrees ,c4 7which is commonly reached when they have been fermenting #fj hours71 for a remarkable change takes place at this temperature and time4 ,whilst the micro-organisms remain outside1 the juice of the pulp appears to penetrate not only the skin1 but the flesh of the bean1 and the brilliant violet in the isolated pigment cells becomes diffused more or less evenly throughout the entire bean1 including the germ4 ,it is certain that the bean absorbs liquid from the outside1 for it becomes so plump that its skin is stretched to the utmost4 ,the following changes occur3 7#a7 ,taste4 ,an astringent colourless substance 7a tannin or a body possessing many properties of a tannin7 changes to a tasteless brown substance4 ,the bean begins to taste less astringent as the tannin is destroyed4 ,with white 7criollo7 beans this change is sufficiently advanced in two days1 but with purple 7forastero7 beans it may take seven days4 7#b7 ,colour4 ,the change in the tannin results in the white 7criollo7 beans becoming brown and the purple 7forastero7 beans becoming tinged with brown4 ,the action resembles the browning of a freshly-cut apple1 and has been shown to be due to oxygen 7activated by an oxidase1 a ferment encouraging combination with oxygen7 acting on the astringent colourless substance1 which1 like the photographic developer1 pyrogallic acid1 becomes brown on oxidation4 7#c7 ,aroma4 ,a notable change is that substances are created within the bean1 which on roasting produce the fine aromatic odour characteristic of cocoa and chocolate1 and which ,messrs4 ,bainbridge and ,davies have shown is due to a trace 7#j4jja per cent47 of an essential oil over half of which consists of linalool4#c 7#d7 ,stimulating ,effect4 ,it is commonly stated that during fermentation there is generated theobromine1 the alkaloid which gives cacao its stimulating properties1 but the estimation of theobromine in fermented and unfermented beans does not support this4 7#e7 ,consistency4 ,fermented beans become crisp on drying4 ,this development may be due to the tannins encountering1 in their dispersion through the bean1 proteins1 which are thus converted into bodies which are brittle solids on drying 7compare tanning of hides74 ,the hide of the bean may be similarly tanned--the shell certainly becomes leathery 7unless washed7--but a far more probable explanation1 in both cases1 is that the gummy bodies in bean and shell set hard on drying4 #c ,journal of the ,chemical ,society1 #aiab4 ,we see1 then1 that although fermentation was probably originally followed as the best method of getting rid of the pulp1 it has other effects which are entirely good4 ,it enables the planter to produce a drier bean1 and one which has1 when roasted1 a finer flavour1 colour1 and aroma1 than the unfermented4 ,fermentation is generally considered to produce so many desirable results that ,m4 ,perrot's suggestion#d of removing the pulp by treatment with alkali1 and thus avoiding fermentation1 has not been enthusiastically received4 #d ,comptes ,rendus1 #aiac4 ,beans which have been dried direct and those which have been fermented may be distinguished as follows3 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,dried ,,direct4 ,,fermented ,,and ,,dried4 ,shape of bean ,flat ,plumper ,shell ,soft and close fitting ,crisp and more or less free4 ,interior3 colour ,slate-blue or mud-brown ,bright browns and purples consistence ,leather to cheese ,crisp appearance ,solid ,open-grained taste ,more or less bitter ,less astringent or astringent ,whilst several effects of fermentation have not been satisfactorily accounted for1 ,i think all are agreed that to obtain one of the chief effects of fermentation1 namely the brown colour1 oxidation is necessary4 ,all recognise that for this oxidation the presence of three substances is essential3 7#a7 ,the tannin to be oxidised4 7#b7 ,oxygen4 7#c7 ,an enzyme which encourages the oxidation4 ,all these occur in the cacao bean as it comes from the pod1 but why oxidation occurs so much better in a fermented bean than in a bean which is simply dried is not very clear4 ,if you cut an apple it goes brown owing to the action of oxygen absorbed from the air1 but as long as the apple is uncut and unbruised it remains white4 ,if you take a cacao bean from the pod and cut it1 the exposed surface goes brown1 but if you ferment the bean the whole of it gradually goes brown without being cut4 ,my observations lead me to believe that the bean does not become oxidised until it is killed1 that is1 until it is no longer capable of germination4 ,it can be killed by raising the temperature1 by fermentation or otherwise1 or as ,dr4 ,fickendey has shown1 by cooling to almost freezing temperatures4 ,it may be that killing the bean makes its skin and cell walls more permeable to oxygen1 but my theory is that when the bean is killed disintegration or weakening of the cell walls1 etc41 occurs1 and1 as a result1 the enzyme and tannin1 hitherto separate1 become mixed1 and hence able actively to absorb oxygen4 ,the action of oxygen on the tannin also accounts for the loss of astringency on fermentation1 and it may be well to point out that fermentation increases the internal surface of the bean exposed to air and oxygen4 ,the bean1 during fermentation1 actually sucks in liquid from the surrounding pulp and becomes plumper and fuller4 ,on drying1 however1 the skin1 which has been expanded to its utmost1 wrinkles up as the interior contracts and no longer fits tightly to the bean1 and the cotyledons having been thrust apart by the liquid1 no longer hold together so closely4 ,this accounts for the open appearance of a fermented bean4 ,as on drying large interspaces are produced1 these allow the air to circulate more freely and expose a greater surface of the bean to the action of oxygen4 ,since the liquids in all living matter presumably contain some dissolved oxygen1 the problem is to account for the fact that the tannin in the unfermented bean remains unoxidised1 whilst that in the fermented bean is easily oxidised4 ,the above affords a partial explanation1 and seems fairly satisfactory when taken with my previous suggestion1 namely1 that during fermentation the bean is rendered pervious to water1 which1 on distributing itself throughout the bean1 dissolves the isolated masses of tannin and diffuses it evenly1 so that it encounters and becomes mixed with the enzymes4 ,from this it will be evident that the major part of the oxidation of the tannin occurs during drying1 and hence the importance of this1 both from the point of view of the keeping properties of the cacao1 and its colour1 taste and aroma4 ,it will be realised from the above that there is still a vast amount of work to be done before the chemist will be in a position to obtain the more desirable aromas and flavours4 ,having found the necessary conditions1 scientifically trained overseers will be required to produce them1 and for this they will need to have under their direction arrangements for fermentation designed on correct principles and allowing some degree of control4 ,whilst improvements are always possible in the approach to perfection1 it must be admitted that1 considering the means at their disposal1 the planters produce a remarkably fine product4 ,illustration3 ,,for ,,drying ,,small ,,quantities4 ,a simple tray-barrow1 which can be run under the house when rain comes on4 ,loss on ,fermenting and ,drying4 ,the fermented cacao is conveyed from the fermentary to the drying trays or floors4 ,the planter often has some rough check-weighing system4 ,thus1 for example1 he notes the number of standard baskets of wet cacao put into the fermentary1 and he measures the fermented cacao produced with the help of a bottomless barrel4 ,by this means he finds that on fermentation the beans lose weight by the draining away of the sweatings1 according to the amount and juiciness of the pulp round them4 ,the beans are still very wet1 and on drying lose a high percentage of their moisture by evaporation before the cacao bean of commerce is obtained4 ,the average losses may be tabulated thus3 ,weight of wet cacao from pod #ajj ,loss on fermentation #bj to #be ,loss on drying #dj -------- ,cacao beans of commerce obtained #ce to #dj ,illustration3 ,,spreading ,,the ,,cacao ,,beans ,,on ,,mats ,,to ,,dry ,,in ,,the ,,sun1 ,,ceylon4 ,the drying of cacao is an art4 ,on the one hand it is necessary to get the beans quite dry 7that is1 in a condition in which they hold only their normal amount of water--#e to #g per cent47 or they will be liable to go mouldy4 ,on the other hand1 the husk or shell of the bean must not be allowed to become burned or brittle4 ,brittle shells produce waste in packing and handling1 and broken shells allow grubs and mould to enter the beans when the cacao is stored4 ,the method of drying varies in different countries according to the climate4 ,jose says3 ,in the wet season when ',father ,sol' chooses to lie low behind the clouds for days and your cocoa house is full1 your curing house full1 your trees loaded1 then is the time to put on his mettle the energetic and practical planter4 ,in such tight corners1 amigo1 ,i have known a friend to set a fire under his cocoa house to keep the cocoa on the top somewhat warm4 ,another friend's plan 7and he recommended it7 was to address his patron saint on such occasions4 ,he never addressed that saint at other times4 ,illustration3 ,,drying ,,trays1 ,,grenada4 ,the trays slide on rails4 ,the corrugated iron roofs will slide over the whole to protect from rain4 ,in most producing areas sun-drying is preferred1 but in countries where much rain falls1 artificial dryers are slowly but surely coming into vogue4 ,these vary in pattern from simple heated rooms1 with shelves1 to vacuum stoves and revolving drums4 ,the sellers of these machines will agree with me when ,i say that every progressive planter ought to have one of these artificial aids to use during those depressing periods when the rain continually streams from the sky4 ,on fine days it is difficult to prevent mildew appearing on the cacao1 but at such times it is impossible4 ,however1 whenever available1 the sun's heat is preferable1 for it encourages a slow and even drying1 which lasts over a period of about three days4 ,as ,dr4 ,paul ,preuss says3 ,,ii faut eviter une dessiccation trop rapide4 ,le cacao ne peut etre seche en moins de trois jours4#e ,further1 most observers agree with ,dr4 ,sack that the valuable changes1 which occur during fermentation1 continue during drying1 especially those in which oxygen assists4 ,the full advantage of these is lost if the temperature used is high enough to kill the enzymes1 or if the drying is too rapid1 both of which may occur with artificial drying4 #e ,dr4 ,paul ,preuss1 ,le cacao4 ,culture et ,preparation4 ,sun-drying is done on cement or brick floors1 on coir mats or trays1 or on wooden platforms4 ,in order to dry the cacao uniformly it is raked over and over in the sun4 ,it must be tenderly treated1 carefully watched and caressed1 until the interior becomes quite crisp and in colour a beautiful brown4 ,sometimes the platforms are built on the top of the fermentaries1 the cacao being conveyed through a hole in the roof of the fermentary to the drying platform4 ,illustration3 ,,hamel-,,smith ,,rotary ,,dryer4 7,made by ,messrs4 ,david ,bridge and ,co41 ,manchester74 ,the receiving cylinders1 six in number1 are filled approximately three-quarters full with the cacao to be dried4 ,these are then placed in position on the revolving framework1 which is enclosed in the casing and slowly revolved4 ,the cylinders are fitted with baffle plates1 which gently turn over the cacao beans at each revolution so that even drying throughout is the result4 ,the casing is heated to the requisite temperature by means of a special stove1 the arrangement of which is such as to allow the air drawn from the outside to circulate around the stove and to pass into the interior of the casing containing the drying cylinders4 ,the fumes from the fuel do not in any way come in contact with the material during drying4 ,illustration3 ,,drying ,,platforms1 ,,trinidad1 ,,with ,,sliding ,,roofs4 ,in ,trinidad the platform always has a sliding roof1 which can be pulled over the cacao in the blaze of noon or when a rainstorm comes on4 ,in other places1 sliding platforms are used which can be pushed under cover in wet weather4 ,the ,washing of ,cacao4 ,in ,java1 ,ceylon and ,madagascar before the cacao is dried1 it is first washed to remove all traces of pulp4 ,this removal of pulp enables the beans to be more rapidly dried1 and is considered almost a necessity in ,ceylon1 where sun-drying is difficult4 ,the practice appears at first sight wholly good and sanitary1 but although beans so treated have a very clean and bright appearance1 looking not unlike almonds1 the practice cannot be recommended4 ,there is a loss of from #b to #aj per cent4 in weight1 which is a disadvantage to the planter1 whilst from the manufacturer's point of view1 washing is objectionable because1 according to ,dr4 ,paul ,preuss1 the aroma suffers4 ,whilst this may be questioned1 there is no doubt that washing renders the shells more brittle and friable1 and less able to bear carriage and handling2 and when the shell is broken1 the cacao is more liable to attack by grubs and mould4 ,therein lies the chief danger of washing4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,drying ,,platforms1 ,,san ,,thome4 ,three tiers of trays on rails4 7,reproduced by permission from the ,imperial ,institute series of ,handbooks to the ,commercial ,resources of the ,tropics74 ,illustration3 ,,washing ,,the ,,beans ,,in ,a ,,vat ,,to ,,clean ,,off ,,the ,,pulp1 ,,ceylon4 ,claying1 ,colouring1 and ,polishing ,cacao4 ,illustration3 ,,claying ,,cacao ,,beans ,,in ,,trinidad4 ,just as in ,java and ,ceylon1 to assist drying1 they wash off the pulp1 so in ,venezuela and often in ,trinidad1 with the same object1 they put earth or clay on the beans4 ,in ,venezuela it is a heavy1 rough coat1 and in ,trinidad a film so thin that usually it is not visible4 ,in ,venezuela1 where fermentation is often only allowed to proceed for one day1 the use of fine red earth may possibly be of value4 ,it certainly gives the beans a very pretty appearance2 they look as though they have been moistened and rolled in cocoa powder4 ,but in ,trinidad1 where the fermentation is a lengthy one1 the use of clay1 though hallowed by custom1 is quite unnecessary4 ,in the report of the ,commission of ,enquiry 7,trinidad1 #aiae7 we read concerning claying that ,it is said to prevent the bean from becoming mouldy in wet weather1 to improve its marketable value by giving it a bright and uniform appearance1 and to help to preserve its aroma4 ,in the appendix to this report the following recommendation occurs3 ,the claying of cacao ought to be avoided as much as possible1 and when necessary only sufficient to give a uniform colour ought to be used4 ,in my opinion manufacturers would do well to discourage entirely the claying of cacao either in ,trinidad or ,venezuela1 for from their point of view it has nothing to recommend it4 ,one per cent4 of clay is sufficient to give a uniform colour1 but occasionally considerably more than this is used4 ,if we are to believe reports1 deliberate adulteration is sometimes practised4 ,thus in ,how ,jose formed his ,cocoa ,estate we read3 ,a cocoa dealer of our day to give a uniform colour to the miscellaneous brands he has purchased from ,pedro1 ,dick1 or ,sammy will wash the beans in a heap1 with a mixture of starch1 sour oranges1 gum arabic and red ochre4 ,this mixture is always boiled4 ,i can recommend the ',chinos' in this dodge1 who are all adepts in all sorts of 'adulteration' schemes4 ,they even add some grease to this mixture so as to give the beans that brilliant gloss which you see sometimes4 ,in ,trinidad the usual way of obtaining a gloss is by the curious operation known as dancing1 which is performed on the moistened beans after the clay has been sprinkled on them4 ,it is a quaint sight to see a circle of seven or eight coloured folk slowly treading a heap of beans4 ,the dancing may proceed for any period up to an hour1 and as they tread they sing some weird native chant4 ,somewhat impressed1 ,i remarked to the planter that it had all the appearance of an incantation4 ,he replied that the process cost #b;d4 per cwt4 ,dancing makes the beans look smooth1 shiny1 and even1 and it separates any beans that may be stuck together in clusters4 ,it may make the beans rounder1 and it is said to improve their keeping properties1 but this remains to be proved4 ,on the whole1 if it is considered desirable to produce a glossy appearance1 it is better to use a polishing machine4 ,the ,weight of the ,cured ,cacao ,bean4 ,illustration3 ,,sorting ,,cacao ,,beans ,,in ,,java4 7,reproduced from van ,hall's ,cocoa1 by permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan ,co474 ,planters and others may be interested to know the comparative sizes of the beans from the various producing areas of the world4 ,some idea of these can be gained by considering the relative weights of the beans as purchased in ,england4 ,average weight ,number of ,beans ,kind4 of one ,bean4 to the lb4 ,grenada #a4j grammes #dej ,para #a4j #dej ,bahia #a4a #daj ,accra #a4b #chj ,trinidad #a4b #chj ,cameroons #a4b #chj ,ceylon #a4b #chj ,caracas #a4c #cej ,machala #a4d #ccj ,arriba #a4e #cjj ,carupano #a4f #bhj ,the ,yield of the ,cacao ,tree4 ,the average yield of cacao has in the past generally been over-stated4 ,whether this is because the planter is an optimist or because he wishes others to think his efforts are crowned with exceptional success1 or because he takes a simple pride in his district1 is hard to tell4 ,probably the tendency has been to take the finer estates and put their results down as the average4 ,of the thousands of flowers that bloom on one tree during the year1 on an average only about twenty develop into mature pods1 and each pod yields about #a-a_/c ounces of dry cured cacao4 ,taking the healthy trees with the neglected1 the average yield is from #a-a_/b to #b pounds of commercial cacao per tree4 ,this seems very small1 and those who hear it for the first time often make a rapid mental calculation of the amazing number of trees that must be needed to produce the world's supply1 at least #bej million trees4 ,or again1 taking the average yield per acre as #djj lbs41 we find that there must be well over a million acres under cacao cultivation4 ,at the ,government station at ,aburi 7,gold ,coast7 three plots of cacao gave in #aiad an average yield of over #h pounds of cacao per tree1 and in #aiah some #dfh trees 7,amelonado7 gave as an average #g4h pounds per tree4 ,this suggests what might be done by thorough cultivation4 ,it suggests a great opportunity for the planters--that1 without planting one more tree1 they might quadruple the world's production4 ,the work which has been started by the ,agricultural ,department in ,trinidad of recording the yield of individual trees has shown that great differences occur4 ,further1 it has generally been observed that the heavy bearing trees of the first year have continued to be heavy bearers1 and the poor-yielding trees have remained poor during subsequent years4 ,the report rightly concludes that3 ,the question of detecting the poor-bearing trees on an estate and having them replaced by trees raised from selected stock1 or budded or grafted trees1 of known prolific and other good qualities is deserving of the most serious consideration by planters4 ,the ,kind of ,cacao that ,manufacturers ,like4#f #f ,for further information read ,the ,qualities in ,cacao ,desired by ,manufacturers1 by ,n4,p4 ,booth and ,a4,w4 ,knapp1 ,international ,congress of ,tropical ,agriculture1 #aiad4 ,planters have suggested to me that if the users and producers of cacao could be brought together it would be to their mutual advantage4 ,permit me to conceive a meeting and report an imaginary conversation3 ,,planter3 ,you know we planters work a little in the dark4 ,we don't know quite what to strive after4 ,tell me exactly what kind of cacao the manufacturers want8 ,,manufacturer3 ,every buyer and manufacturer has his tastes and preferences and----4 ,,planter3 ,don't hedge6 ,,manufacturer3 ,the cacao of each producing area has its special characters1 even as the wine from a country1 and part of the good manufacturer's art is the art of blending4 ,,planter3 ,what--good with bad8 ,,manufacturer3 ,no6 ,good of one type with good of another type4 ,,planter3 ,what do you mean exactly by good8 ,,manufacturer3 ,by good ,i mean large1 ripe1 well-cured beans4 ,by indifferent ,i mean unripe and unfermented4 ,by abominable ,i mean germinated1 mouldy1 and grubby beans4 ,happily1 the last class is quite a small one4 ,,planter3 ,you don't mean to tell me that only the good cacao sells8 ,,manufacturer3 ,unfortunately1 no6 ,there are users of inferior beans4 ,practically all the cacao produced--good and indifferent--is bought by someone4 ,most manufacturers prefer the fine1 healthy1 well fermented kinds4 ,,planter3 ,well fermented6 ,they have a strange way of showing their preference4 ,why1 they often pay more for ,guayaquil than they do for ,grenada cacao4 ,yet ,guayaquil is never properly fermented1 whilst that from the ,grenada estates is perfectly fermented4 ,,manufacturer3 ,agreed4 ,just as you would pay more for a badly-trained thoroughbred than for a well-trained mongrel4 ,it's breed they pay for4 ,the ,guayaquil breed is peculiar2 there is nothing else like it in the world4 ,you might think the tree had been grafted on to a spice tree4 ,it has a fine characteristic aroma1 which is so powerful that it masks the presence of a high percentage of unfermented beans4 ,however1 if ,guayaquil cacao was well-fermented it would 7subject to the iron laws of ,supply and ,demand7 fetch a still higher price1 and there would not be the loss there is in a wet season when the ,guayaquil cacao1 being unfermented1 goes mouldy4 ,i think in ,grenada they plant for high yield1 and not for quality1 for the bean is small and approaches the inferior ,calabacillo breed4 ,its value is maintained by an amazing evenness and an uniform excellence in curing4 ,the way in which it is prepared for the market does great credit to the planters4 ,,planter3 ,they don't clay there1 do they8 ,,manufacturer3 ,no6 and yet it is practically impossible to find a mouldy bean in ,grenada estates cacao4 ,evidently claying is not a necessity--in ,grenada4 ,,planter3 ,ha6 ha6 ,by that ,i suppose you insinuate that it is not a necessity in ,trinidad1 where the curing is also excellent4 ,or in ,venezuela8 ,what's the buyer's objection to claying8 ,,manufacturer3 ,simply that claying is camouflage4 ,actually the buyer doesn't mind so long as the clay is not too generously used4 ,he objects to paying for beans and getting clay4 ,however1 it's really too bad to colour up with clay the black cacao from diseased pods2 it might deceive even experienced brokers4 ,,planter3 ,ha6 ha6 ,then it's a very sinful practice4 ,i don't think that ever gets beyond the local tropical market4 ,i know the merchants judge largely by the skin1 but ,i thought the ,london broker----4 ,,manufacturer3 ,you see it's like this4 ,just as you associate a certain label with a particularly good brand of cigar so the planter's mark on the bag and the external appearance of the beans influence the broker by long association4 ,but just as you cannot truly judge a cigar by the picture on the box1 so the broker has to consider what is under the shell of the bean4 ,one or two manufacturers go further1 but don't trust merely to tasting with their eyes--they only come to a conclusion when they have roasted a sample4 ,,planter3 ,but a buyer can get a shrewd idea without roasting1 surely8 ,you agree4 ,well1 what exactly does he look for8 ,,manufacturer3 ,depends what nationality the bean is--,i mean whether it was grown in ,venezuela1 ,brazil1 ,trinidad1 or the ,gold ,coast4 ,in general he likes beans with a good break1 that is beans which1 under the firm pressure of thumb and forefinger1 break into small crisp nibs4 ,closeness or cheesiness are danger signals1 warnings of lack of fermentation1--so is a slate-coloured interior4 ,he prefers a pale1 even-coloured interior1--cinnamon1 chocolate1 or cafe-au-lait colour and----4 ,,planter3 ,one moment6 ,i've heard before of planters being told to ferment and cure until the bean is cinnamon colour4 ,why1 man1 you couldn't get a pale brown interior with beans of the ,forastero or ,calabacillo type if you fermented them to rottenness4 ,,manufacturer3 ,true6 ,well1 if the breed on your plantation is purple ,forastero1 and more than half of the cacao in the world is1 you must develop as much brown in the beans as possible4 ,they should have the characteristic refreshing odour of raw cacao1 together with a faint vinegary odour4 ,the buyers much dislike any foreign smell1 any mouldy1 hammy1 or cheesy odour4 ,,planter3 ,and where do the foreign odours come from8 ,,manufacturer3 ,that's debatable4 ,some come from bad fermentations1 due to dirty fermentaries1 abnormal temperatures1 or unripe cacao4#g ,some come from smoky or imperfect artificial drying4 ,some come from mould4 ,unfermented cacao is liable to go mouldy1 so is germinated or over-ripe cacao with broken shells4 ,some cacao unfortunately gets wet with sea water4 ,there always seems to me something pathetic in the thought of finely-cured cacao being drowned in sea water as it goes out in open boats to the steamer4 ,,planter3 ,you see1 we haven't piers and jetties everywhere1 and often it's a long journey to them4 ,well1 you've told me the buyers note break1 colour and aroma4 ,anything else8 ,,manufacturer3 ,they like large beans1 partly because largeness suggests fineness1 and partly because with large beans the percentage of shell is less4 ,small flat beans are very wasteful and unsatisfactory2 they are nearly all shell and very difficult to separate from the shell4 ,,planter3 ,when there's a drought we can't help ourselves2 we produce quantities of small flat beans4 ,,manufacturer3 ,it must be trying to be at the mercy of the weather4 ,however1 the weather doesn't prevent the dirt being picked out of the beans4 ,buyers don't like more than half a per cent4 of rubbish2 ,i mean stones1 dried twig-like pieces of pulp1 dust1 etc41 left in the cacao1 neither do they like to see cobs1 that is1 two or more beans stuck together1 nor----4 ,,planter3 ,how about gloss8 ,,manufacturer3 ,the beauty of a polished bean attracts1 although they know the beauty is less than skin deep4 ,,planter3 ,and washing8 ,,manufacturer3 ,in my opinion washing is bad1 leaves the shell too fragile4 ,i believe in ,hamburg they used to pay more for washed beans2 although very little1 ,i suppose less than five per cent41 of the world's cacao is washed1 but in ,london many buyers prefer the great unwashed4 ,however1 brokers are conservative1 and would probably look on unwashed ,ceylon with suspicion4 ,,planter3 ,well1 ,i have been very interested in everything that you have said1 and ,i think every planter should strive to produce the very best he can1 but he does not get much encouragement4 ,,manufacturer3 ,how is that8 ,,planter3 ,there is insufficient difference between the price of the best and the common4 ,,manufacturer3 ,unfortunately that is beyond any individual manufacturer's control4 ,the price is controlled by the ,european and ,new ,york markets4 ,i am afraid that as long as there is so large a demand by the public for cheap cocoas so long will there be keen competition amongst buyers for the commoner kinds of beans4 ,,planter3 ,the manufacturer should keep some of his own men on the spot to do his buying4 ,they would discriminate carefully1 and the differences in price offered would soon educate the planters6 ,,manufacturer3 ,true1 but as each manufacturer requires cacao from many countries and districts1 this would be a very costly enterprise4 ,several manufacturers have had their own buyers in certain places in the ,tropics for some years1 and it is generally agreed that this has acted as an incentive to the growers to improve the quality4#h ,but in the main we have to look to the various ,government ,agricultural ,departments to instruct and encourage the planters in the use of the best methods4 #g ,cameroon cacao sometimes has an objectionable odour and flavour1 which may be due to its being fermented in an unripe condition1 for1 as ,dr4 ,fickendey says3 ,cameroon cacao has to be harvested unripe to save the pods from brown rot4 #h ,the ,director of ,agriculture1 in a paper on ,the ,gold ,coast ,cocoa ,industry1 says3 ,we are indebted to ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 of ,bournville1 for a lead in this direction4 ,they have several agents in the colony who purchase on their behalf only the best qualities at an enhanced price1 and reject all that falls below the standard of their requirements4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,world',s ,,cacao ,,production4 7,mean of #e years1 #aiad-aiah4 ,average world production #bie1fjj tons per annum47 ,diagram showing relative amounts produced by various countries4 ,the shaded parts show production of ,british ,possessions4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,cacao ,,production ,,and ,,sale ,when the ,english ,commander1 ,thomas ,candish1 coming into the ,haven ,guatulco1 burnt two hundred thousand tun of cacao1 it proved no small loss to all ,new ,spain1 the provinces ,guatimala and ,nicaragua not producing so much in a whole year4 ,john ,ogilvy's ,america1 #afga4 ,when one starts to discuss1 however briefly1 the producing areas1 one ought first to take off one's hat to ,ecuador1 for so long the principal producer1 and then to ,venezuela the land of the original cacao1 and producer of the finest criollo type4 ,having done this1 one ought to say words of praise to ,trinidad1 ,grenada and ,ceylon for their scientific methods of culture and preparation2 and1 last but not least1 the newest and greatest producer1 the ,gold ,coast1 should receive honourable mention4 ,it is interesting to note that in #aiah ,british ,possessions produced nearly half 7#dd per cent47 of the world's supply4 ,whilst the war has not very materially hindered the increase of cacao production in the tropics1 the shortage of shipping has prevented the amount exported from maintaining a steady rise4 ,the table below1 taken mainly from the ,gordian1 illustrates this3 ,,world ,,production ,,of ,,cacao4 ,total in tons 7#a ton #ajjj kilogrammes7 #aijh #aid1jjj #aiad #bgg1jjj #aiji #bjf1jjj #aiae #bih1jjj #aiaj #bbj1jjj #aiaf #big1jjj #aiaa #bda1jjj #aiag #cdc1jjj #aiab #bcd1jjj #aiah #bgc1jjj #aiac #beh1jjj #aiai #dca1jjj ,the following table is compiled chiefly from ,messrs4 ,theo4 ,vasmer ,co4's reports in the ,confectioners' ,union4 ,,cacao ,,production ,,of ,,the ,,chief ,,producing ,,areas ,,of ,,the ,,world4 7#a ton #ajjj kilogrammes74 ,country4 #aiad #aiae #aiaf #aiag #aiah ,tons4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,gold ,coast#a #ec1jjj #gg1cjj #gb1bjj #ia1jjj #ff1cjj ,brazil #dj1hjj #de1jjj #dc1gjj #ee1fjj #da1ijj ,ecuador #dg1bjj #cg1jjj #db1gjj #dg1bjj #ch1jjj ,san ,thome #ca1djj #bi1ijj #cc1bjj #ca1ijj #bf1fjj ,trinidad#a #bh1djj #bd1ajj #bd1jjj #ca1hjj #bf1bjj ,san ,domingo #bj1gjj #bj1bjj #ba1jjj #bc1gjj #ah1hjj ,venezuela #af1ijj #ah1cjj #ae1bjj #ac1ajj #ac1jjj ,lagos#a #d1ijj #i1ajj #i1jjj #ae1djj #aj1bjj ,grenada#a #f1ajj #f1ejj #e1ejj #e1ejj #f1gjj ,fernando ,po #c1ajj #c1ijj #c1hjj #c1gjj #d1bjj ,ceylon#a #b1ijj #c1ijj #c1ejj #c1gjj #d1jjj ,jamaica#a #c1hjj #c1fjj #c1djj #b1hjj #c1jjj ,surinam #a1ijj #a1gjj #b1jjj #a1ijj #b1ejj ,cameroons #a1bjj #b1djj #c1jjj #b1hjj #a1cjj ,haiti #b1ajj #a1hjj #a1ijj #a1ejj #b1cjj ,french ,cols4 #a1hjj #a1ijj #a1fjj #b1bjj #a1gjj ,cuba #a1hjj #a1gjj #a1ejj #a1ejj #a1jjj ,java #a1fjj #a1ejj #a1ejj #a1fjj #hjj ,samoa #a1ajj #ijj #ijj #a1bjj #hjj ,togo #bjj #cjj #djj #a1fjj #a1jjj ,st4 ,lucia#a #gjj #hjj #gjj #fjj #ejj ,belgian ,congo #ejj #fjj #hjj #hjj #ijj ,dominica#a #dej #eej #cjj #cjj #cjj ,st4 ,vincent#a #ajj #ajj #ge #ej #ge ,other countries #c1bjj #c1jjj #c1ejj #c1ejj #c1ejj ---------------------------------------- --- ,total #bge1ijj #bif1ajj #bie1djj #cdd1jjj #bge1fjj ---------------------------------------- --- ,total ,british ,empire #ajb1jjj #abh1jjj #abj1jjj #aec1jjj #aai1jjj #a ,british ,possessions4 ,illustration3 ,,map ,,of ,,the ,,world1 ,,with ,,only ,,cacao-,,producing ,,areas ,,marked4 ,,south ,,american ,,cacao4 ,in the map of ,south ,america given on p4 #hi the principal cacao producing areas are marked4 ,their production in #aiah was as follows3 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,exported4 ,percentage of ,country4 ,metric ,tons4#b ,world's production4 ,brazil #da1hfe #ae4d ,ecuador #ch1jjj #ad4j 7,guayaquil alone #cd1igc tons7 ,venezuela #ac1jjj #e4j ,surinam #b1dfh #j4i ,british ,guiana #bj #j4ja ---------------------------------------- -- ,south ,american ,total #ie1cec tons #ce4ca per cent4 ---------------------------------------- -- #b ,these figures1 and others quoted later in this chapter1 are estimates given by ,messrs4 ,theo4 ,vasmer ,co4 in their reports4 ,,ecuador4 ,arriba and ,machala ,cacaos4--,in ,ecuador1 for many years the chief producing area of the world1 dwell the cacao kings1 men who possess very large and wild cacao forests1 each containing several million cacao trees4 ,the method of culture is primitive1 and no artificial manures are used1 yet for several generations the trees have given good crops and the soil remains as fertile as ever4 ,the two principal cacaos are known as ,arriba and ,machala1 or classed together as ,guayaquil after the city of that name4 ,guayaquil1 the commercial metropolis of the ,republic of ,ecuador1 is an ancient and picturesque city built almost astride the ,equator4 ,despite the unscientific cultural methods1 and the imperfect fermentation1 which results in the cacao containing a high percentage of unfermented beans and not infrequently mouldy beans also1 this cacao is much appreciated in ,europe and ,america1 for the beans are large and possess a fine strong flavour and characteristic scented aroma4 ,the amount of ,guayaquil cacao exported in #aiai was #cc1bji tons4 ,illustration3 ,,raking ,,cacao ,,beans ,,on ,,the ,,driers4 ,illustration3 ,,gathering ,,cacao ,,pods ,,in ,,ecuador4 7,la ,clementina ,plantation1 ,ecuador47 ,illustration3 ,,sorting ,,cacao ,,for ,,shipment1 ,,guayaquil1 ,,ecuador4 ,an interesting experiment was made in #aiab1 when a protective association known as the ,asociacion de ,agricultores del ,ecuador was legalised4 ,this collects half a golden dollar on every hundred pounds of cacao1 and by purchasing and storing cacao on its own account whenever prices fall below a reasonable minimum1 attempts in the planter's interest to regulate the selling price of cacao4 ,unfortunately1 as cacao tends to go mouldy when stored in a damp tropical climate1 the ,asociacion is not an unmixed blessing to the manufacturer and consumer4 ,,brazil4 ,para and ,bahia ,cacaos4--,brazil has made marked progress in recent years1 and has now overtaken ,ecuador in quantity of produce2 the cacao1 however1 is quite different from1 and not as fine as1 that from ,guayaquil4 ,the principal cacao comes from the ,state of ,bahia1 where the climate is ideal for its cultivation4 ,indeed so perfect are the natural conditions that formerly no care was taken in cacao production1 and much of that gathered was wild and uncured4 ,during the last decade there has been an improvement1 and this would1 doubtless1 be more noteworthy if the means of transport were better1 for at present the roads are bad and the railways inadequate2 hence most of the cacao is brought down to the city of ,bahia in canoes4 ,nevertheless1 ,bahia cacao is better fermented than the peculiar cacao of ,para1 another important cacao from ,brazil1 which is appreciated by manufacturers on account of its mild flavour4 ,bahia exported in #aiai about #ea1jjj tons of cacao4 ,,venezuela4 ,caracas1 ,carupano and ,maracaibo ,cacaos4--,venezuela has been called the classic home of cacao1 and had not the chief occupation of its inhabitants been revolution1 it would have retained till now the important position it held a hundred years ago4 ,it is in this enchanted country 7it was at ,la ,guayra in ,caracas1 as readers of ,westward ,ho6 will remember1 that ,amyas found his long-sought ,rose7 that the finest cacao in the world is produced3 the criollo1 the bean with the golden-brown break4 ,the tree which produces this is as delicate as the cacao is fine1 and there is some danger that this superb cacao may die out--a tragedy which every connoisseur would wish to avert4 ,the ,gordian estimates that ,venezuela sent out from her three principal ports in #aiai some #af1bbf tons of cacao4 ,,the ,,west ,,indies4 ,in the map of ,south ,america the principal ,west ,indian islands producing cacao are marked4 ,their production in #aiah was as follows3 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,exported4 ,percentage of ,metric ,tons4 ,world's production4 ,trinidad 7,british7 #bf1agg #i4g ,san ,domingo #ah1hci #g4j ,grenada 7,british7 #f1gjd #b4e ,jamaica 7,british7 #c1jjj #a4a ,haiti #b1bgb #j4h ,st4 ,lucia 7,british7 #ejj #j4b ,dominica 7,british7 #cjj #j4a ,st4 ,vincent 7,british7 #gj #j4jb ----------- --------------- ,west ,indies ,total #eg1hfb tons #ba4db per cent4 ----------- --------------- ,br4 ,west ,indies #cf1gea tons #ac4f per cent4 ,,trinidad ,,and ,,grenada4#c #c ,cacao production in #aiai3 ,trinidad #bg1ahe tons2 ,grenada #d1jbj tons4 ,cacao was grown in the ,west ,indies in the seventeenth century1 and the inhabitants1 after the destructive blast1 which utterly destroyed the plantations in #agbg1 bravely replanted cacao1 which has flourished there ever since4 ,the cacaos of ,trinidad and ,grenada have long been known for their excellence1 and it is mainly from ,trinidad that the knowledge of methods of scientific cultivation and preparation has been spread to planters all round the equator4 ,the cacao from ,trinidad 7famous alike for its cacao and its pitch lake7 has always held a high place in the markets of the world1 although a year or two ago the inclusion of inferior cacao and the practice of claying was abused by a few growers and merchants4 ,with the object of stopping these abuses and of producing a uniform cacao1 there was formed a ,cacao ,planters' ,association1 whose business it is to grade and bulk1 and sell on a co-operative basis1 the cacao produced by its members4 ,this experiment has proved successful1 and in #aiah the ,association handled the cacao from over #ajj estates4 ,we may expect to see more of these cacao planters' associations formed in various parts of the world1 for they are in line with the trend of the times towards large1 and ever larger1 unions and combinations4 ,trinidad is also progressive in its system of agricultural education and in its formation of agricultural credit societies4 ,the neighbouring island of ,grenada is mountainous1 smaller than the ,isle of ,wight and 7if the ,irish will forgive me7 greener than ,erin's ,isle4 ,the methods of cacao cultivation in vogue there might seem natural to the ,british farmer1 but they are considered remarkable by cacao planters1 for in ,grenada the soil on which the trees grow is forked or tilled4 ,possibly from this follows the equally remarkable corollary that the cacao trees flourish without a single shade tree4 ,the preparation of the bean receives as much care as the cultivation of the tree1 and the cacao which comes from the estates has an unvaried constancy of quality1 not infrequently giving #ajj per cent4 of perfectly prepared beans4 ,it is largely due to this that the cacao from this small island occupies such an important position on the ,london market4 ,illustration3 ,,map ,,of ,,south ,,america ,,and ,,the ,,west ,,indies4 ,only cacao-producing areas are marked4 ,illustration3 ,,workers ,,on ,a ,,cacao ,,plantation4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury's estate in ,trinidad47 ,the cacao from ,san ,domingo is known commercially as ,samana or ,sanchez4 ,a fair proportion is of inferior quality1 and is little appreciated on the ,european markets4 ,the bulk of it goes to ,america4 ,the production in #aiai was about #bc1jjj tons4 ,,african ,,cacao4 ,in the map of ,africa the principal producing areas are marked4 ,their production in #aiah was as follows3 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,exported4 ,metric ,tons4 ,percentage of ,world's production4 ,gold ,coast 7,british7 #ff1cdc #bd4e ,san ,thome #ai1ahe #g4a ,lagos 7,british7 #aj1bbc #c4h ,fernando ,po #d1bbj #a4f ,cameroons #a1bej #j4d ,togo #a1jjj #j4d ,belgian ,congo #hge #j4c ------------ -------------- ,african ,total #ajc1jif tons #ch4a per cent4 ------------ -------------- ,british ,africa #gf1eff tons #bh4c per cent4 ,,the ,,gold ,,coast 7,industria floremus74 ,accra ,cacao4 ,the name recalls stories of a romantic and awful past1 in which gold and the slave trade played their terrible part4 ,happily these are things of the past2 so is the deadly climate4 ,we are told that it is now no worse than that of other tropical countries4 ,according to ,sir ,hugh ,clifford1 until recently ,governor of the ,gold ,coast1 the ,west ,african ,climatic ,bogie is a myth1 and the monumental reputation for unhealthiness undeserved4 ,when ,de ,candolle wrote concerning cacao1 ,i imagine it would succeed on the ,guinea ,coast1#d as the ,west ,african coast is sometimes called1 he achieved prophecy1 but he little dreamed how wonderful this success would be4 ,the rise and growth of the cacao-growing industry in the ,gold ,coast is one of the most extraordinary developments of the last few decades4 ,in thirty years it has increased its export of cacao from nothing to #dj per cent4 of the total of the world's production4 #d ,de ,candolle1 ,origin of ,cultivated ,plants1 quoted by ,r4 ,whymper4 ,illustration3 ,,map ,,of ,,africa--,,with ,,only ,,cacao-,,producing ,,areas ,,marked4 ,illustration3 ,,foreshore ,,at ,,accra1 ,,with ,,stacks ,,of ,,cacao ,,ready ,,for ,,shipment4 ,reproduced by permission of the ,editor of ,west ,africa4 ,,production ,,of ,,cacao ,,on ,,the ,,gold ,,coast4 ,year4 ,quantity4 ,value4 ,l #ahia #j tons 7#hj lbs47 #d #ahif #cd tons #b1bgf #aija #ihj tons #db1hcg #aijf #h1ige tons #ccf1bfi #aiaa #cj1gih tons #a1fac1dfh #aiaf #gb1afa tons #c1hdg1gbj #aiag #ij1ifd tons #c1adf1hea #aiah #ff1cdc tons #a1gif1ihe #aiai #agg1jjj tons #h1jjj1jjj ,the conditions of production in the ,gold ,coast present a number of features entirely novel4 ,we hear from time to time of concessions being granted in tropical regions to this or that company of enterprising ,european capitalists1 who employ a few ,europeans and send them to the area to manage the industry4 ,the inhabitants of the area become the manual wage earners of the company1 and too often in the lust for profits1 or as an offering to the god of commercial efficiency1 the once easy and free life of the native is lost for ever and a form of wage-slavery takes its place with doubtful effects on the life and health of the workers4 ,in defence it is pointed out that yet another portion of the earth has been made productive1 which1 without the initiative of the ,european capitalist1 must have lain fallow4 ,but in the ,gold ,coast the indolent native has created a new industry entirely native owned1 and in thirty years the ,gold ,coast has outstripped all the areas of the world in quantity of produce4 ,forty years ago the natives had never seen a cacao tree1 now at least fifty million trees flourish in the colony4 ,this could not have happened without the strenuous efforts of the ,department of ,agriculture4 ,the ,gold ,coast now stands head and shoulders above any other producing area for quantity4 ,the problem of the future lies in the improvement of quality1 and difficult though this problem be1 we cannot doubt1 given a fair chance1 that the far-sighted and energetic ,agricultural ,department will solve it4 ,indeed1 it must in justice be pointed out that already a very marked improvement has been made1 and now fifty to one hundred times as much good fermented cacao is produced as there was ten years ago4#e ,however1 if a high standard is to be maintained1 the work of the ,department of ,agriculture must be supplemented by the willingness of the cacao buyers to pay a higher price for the better qualities4 #e ,towards this latter result ,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,ltd41 rendered great assistance4 ,this firm sent representatives into the country1 who proved to the natives that they were willing to pay an enhanced price for cocoa prepared in a manner suitable for their requirements4 ,a fair amount of cocoa was purchased by them1 and demonstrations were made in some places with regard to the proper mode of fermentation4 7,the ,agricultural and ,forest ,products of ,british ,west ,africa4 ,imperial ,institute ,handbook1 by ,g4,c4 ,dudgeon74 ,illustration3 ,,carriers ,,conveying ,,bags ,,of ,,cacao ,,to ,,surf ,,boats1 ,,accra4 ,reproduced by permission of the ,editor of ,west ,africa4 ,the phenomenal growth of this industry is the more remarkable when we consider the lack of roads and beasts of burden4 ,the usual pack animals1 horses and oxen1 cannot live on the ,gold ,coast because of the tsetse fly1 which spreads amongst them the sleeping sickness4 ,and so the native1 used as he is to heavy head-loads1 naturally adopted this as his first method of transport1 and hundreds of the less affluent natives arrive at the collecting centres with great weights of cacao on their heads4 ,women and children1 light-hearted1 chattering and cheerful1 bear their #fj lbs4 head-loads with infinite patience4 ,heavier loads1 approaching sometimes two hundredweight1 are borne by grave1 silent ,hausa-men1 often a distance of thirty or forty miles4 ,illustration3 ,,crossing ,,the ,,river ,,at ,,nsawam1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,illustration3 ,,drying ,,cacao ,,beans ,,at ,,mramra4 ,reproduced by permission from the ,imperial ,institute series of ,handbooks to the ,commercial ,resources of the ,tropics4 ,one day1 not so many years ago1 some more ingenious native in the hills at the back of the ,coast1 filled an old palm-oil barrel with cacao and rolled it down the ways to ,accra4 ,and now to-day it is a familiar sight to see a man trundling a huge barrel of cacao1 weighing half a ton1 down to the coast4 ,the sound of a motor horn is heard1 and he wildly turns the barrel aside to avoid a disastrous collision with the new1 weird transport animal from ,europe4 ,motor lorries have been used with great effect on the coast for some seven years2 they have the advantage over pack animals that they do not succumb to the bite of the dreaded tsetse fly1 but nevertheless not a few derelicts lie1 or stand on their heads1 in the ditches1 the victims of over-work or accident4 ,illustration3 ,,shooting ,,cacao ,,from ,,the ,,road ,,to ,,the ,,beach1 ,,accra4 ,having brought the cacao to the coast1 there yet remains the lighterage to the ocean liner1 which lies anchored some two miles from the shore1 rising and falling to the great rollers from the broad ,atlantic4 ,a long boat is used1 manned by some twenty swarthy natives1 who glory--vocally--in their passage through the dangerous surf which roars along the sloping beach4 ,the cacao is piled high on wood racks and covered with tarpaulins and seldom shares the fate of passengers and crew1 who are often drenched in the surf before they swing by a crane in the primitive mammy chair1 high but not dry1 on board the hospitable ,elder ,dempster liner4 ,illustration3 ,,rolling ,,cacao1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,,san ,,thome 7,,and ,,principe74 ,we now turn from the ,gold ,coast and the success of native ownership to another part of ,west ,africa1 a scene of singular beauty1 where the ,portuguese planters have triumphed over savage nature4 ,two lovely islands1 ,san ,thome and its little sister isle of ,principe1 lie right on the ,equator in the ,gulf of ,guinea1 about two hundred miles from the ,african mainland4 ,a warm1 lazy sea1 the sea of the doldrums1 sapphire or turquoise1 or1 in deep shaded pools1 a radiant green1 joyfully foams itself away against these fairy lands of tossing palm1 dense vegetation1 rushing cascades1 and purple1 precipitous peaks4 ,a soil of volcanic origin is covered with a rich humus of decaying vegetation1 and this1 with a soft humid atmosphere1 makes an ideal home for cacao4 ,the bean1 introduced in #ahbb1 was not cultivated with diligence till fifty years ago4 ,to-day the two islands1 which together have not half the area of ,surrey1 grow #cb1jjj metric tons of cacao a year1 or about one-tenth of the world's production4#f ,the income of a single planter1 once a poor peasant1 has amounted to hundreds of thousands sterling4 #f ,the ,gordian's estimate for the amount exported in #aiai is #dj1gff tons4 ,illustration3 ,,rolling ,,cacao1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,reproduced by permission of the ,editor of ,west ,africa4 ,dotted over the islands1 here nestling on a mountain side1 there overlooking some blue inlet of the sea1 are more than two hundred plantations1 or rocas1 whose buildings look like islands in a green sea of cacao shrubs1 above which rise the grey stems of such forest trees as have been left to afford shade4 ,illustration3 ,,carrying ,,cacao ,,to ,,the ,,railway ,,station1 ,,nsawam1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,here1 not only have the cultivation1 fermentation and drying of cacao been brought to the highest state of perfection1 but the details of organisation--planters' homes1 hospitals1 cottages1 drying sheds and the ,decauville railways--are often models of their kind4 ,intelligent and courteous1 the planters make delightful hosts4 ,at their homes1 five thousand miles away from ,europe1 the visitor1 who knows what it means to struggle with steaming1 virgin forests1 rank encroaching vegetation1 deadly fevers1 and the physical and mental inertia engendered by the tropics1 will marvel at the courage and energy that have triumphed over such obstacles4 ,calculating from various estimates1 each labourer in the islands appears to produce about #a1fdj pounds of cacao yearly1 and the average yield per cultivated acre is #dhj pounds1 or about #cj pounds more than that of ,trinidad in #ahih4 ,illustration3 ,,wagon ,,loads ,,of ,,cacao ,,being ,,taken ,,from ,,messrs4 ,,cadbury',s ,,depot ,,to ,,the ,,beach1 ,,accra4 ,as there is no available labour in ,san ,thome1 the planters get their workers from the mainland of ,africa4 ,prior to the year #aijh1 the labour system of the islands was responsible for grave abuses4 ,this has now been changed4 ,natives from the ,portuguese colonies of ,angola and ,mozambique now enter freely into contracts ranging from one to five years1 two years being the time generally chosen4 ,at the end of their term of work they either re-contract or return to their native land with their savings1 with which they generally buy a wife4 ,the readiness with which the natives volunteer for the work on the islands is proof both of the soundness of the system of contract and of the good treatment they receive at the hands of the planters4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,buildings ,,of ,,the ,,boa ,,entrada ,,cacao ,,estate1 ,,san ,,thome4 ,unfortunately1 the mortality of the plantation labourers has generally been very heavy1 one large and well-managed estate recording on an average of seven years an annual death rate of #adh per thousand1 and many rocas have still more appalling records4 ,against this1 other plantations only a few miles away may show a mortality approximating to that of an average ,european city4 ,in ,february1 #aiah1 the workers in ,san ,thome numbered #ci1fje1 and the deaths during the previous year1 #aiag1 were #a1hjh1 thus showing on official figures an annual mortality of #de per thousand4 ,comparing this with the #bf per thousand of ,trinidad1 and remembering that most of the ,san ,thome labourers are in the prime of life1 it will be seen that this death rate represents a heavy loss of life and justifies the continued demand from the ,british cocoa manufacturers for the appointment and report of a special medical commission4 ,the ,portuguese ,government is prepared to meet this demand1 for it has recently sent a ,commissioner1 ,dr4 ,joaquim ,gouveia1 to ,san ,thome to make a thorough examination of labour conditions1 including work1 food1 housing1 hospitals and medical attendance1 and to report fully and confidentially to the ,portuguese ,colonial ,secretary4 ,illustration3 ,,drying ,,cacao ,,at ,,agua ,,ize1 ,,san ,,thome4 ,the trays are on wheels1 which run on rails4 ,if this important step is followed by adequate measures of reform there is every reason to hope that the result will be a material reduction in the death rate1 as the good health enjoyed on some of the rocas shows ,san ,thome to be not more unhealthy than other tropical islands4 ,,cameroons4 ,the ,cameroons1 which we took from the ,germans in #aiaf1 is also on the ,west ,coast of ,africa4 ,it lags far behind the ,gold ,coast in output1 although both commenced to grow cacao about the same time4 ,the ,germans spent great sums in the ,cameroons in giving the industry a scientific basis1 they adopted the estate plan1 and possibly the fact that they employ contract labour explains why they have not had the same phenomenal success that the natives working for themselves have achieved on the ,gold ,coast4 ,illustration3 ,,barrel ,,rolling1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,various countries and districts which are responsible for about #ig per cent4 of the world's cacao crop have now been named and briefly commented upon4 ,of other producing areas1 the islands1 ,ceylon and ,java1 are worthy of mention4 ,in both of these 7as also in ,venezuela1 ,samoa#g and ,madagascar7 is grown the criollo cacao1 which produces the plump1 sweet beans with the cinnamon break4 ,cacao beans from ,ceylon or ,java are easily recognised by their appearance1 because1 being washed1 they have beautiful clean shells1 but there is a serious objection to washed shells1 namely1 that they are brittle and as thin as paper1 so that many are broken before they reach the manufacturer4 ,ceylon is justly famous for its fine old red2 along with this a fair quantity of inferior cacao is produced1 which by being called ,ceylon 7such is the power of a good name71 tends to claim a higher price than its quality warrants4 #g ,robert ,louis ,stevenson was one of the pioneers in cacao planting in ,samoa1 as readers of his ,vailima ,letters will remember4 ,illustration3 ,,bagging ,,cacao1 ,,gold ,,coast4 ,reproduced by permission of the ,editor of ,west ,africa4 ,,cacao ,,markets4 ,from the ,plantation to the ,european ,market4 ,it is mentioned above that on the ,gold ,coast cacao is brought down to ,accra as head-loads1 or in barrels1 or in motor-lorries4 ,these methods are exceptional2 in other countries it is usually put in sacks at the estate4 ,every estate has its own characteristic mark1 which is stamped on the bags1 and this is recognised by the buyers in ,europe1 and gives a clue to the quality of the contents4 ,there is not as yet a uniform weight for a bag of cacao1 although they all vary between one and two cwt41 thus the bags from ,africa contain #a-a_/d cwts41 whilst those from ,guayaquil contain #a-c_/d cwts4 ,in these bags the cacao is taken to the port on the backs of mules1 in horse or ox carts1 in canoes down a stream1 or more rarely1 by rail4 ,it is then conveyed by lighters or surf boats to the great ocean liners which lie anchored off the shore4 ,in the hold of the liner it is rocked thousands of miles over the azure seas of the tropics to the grey-green seas of the temperate zone4 ,in pre-war days a million bags used to go to ,hamburg1 three-quarters of a million to ,new ,york1 half a million to ,havre1 and only a trifling quarter of a million to ,london4 ,now ,london is the leading cacao market of the world4 ,during the war the supplies were cut off from ,hamburg1 whilst ,liverpool1 becoming a chief port for ,african cacao1 in #aiaf imported a million bags4 ,then ,new ,york began to gorge cacao1 and in #aiag created a record1 importing some two and a half million bags1 or about #aej1jjj tons4 ,whilst everything is in so fluid a condition it is unwise to prophesy2 it may1 however1 be said that there are many who think1 now that the consumption of cocoa and chocolate in ,america has reached such a prodigious figure1 that ,new ,york may yet oust ,london and become the central dominating market of the world4 ,illustration3 ,,surf ,,boats ,,by ,,the ,,side ,,of ,,the ,,ocean ,,liner1 ,,accra4 ,difficulties of ,buying4 ,every country produces a different kind of cacao1 and the cacao from any two plantations in the same country often shows wide variation4 ,it may be said that there are as many kinds of cacao as there are of apples1 cacao showing as marked differences as exhibited by crabs and ,blenheims1 not to mention ,james ,grieves1 ,russets1 ,worcester ,pearmains1 ,newton ,wonders1 ,lord ,derbys1 ,belle de ,boskoops1 and so forth4 ,further1 whilst the bulk of the cacao is good and sound1 a little of the cacao grown in any district is liable to have suffered from drought or from attacks by moulds or insect pests4 ,it will be realised from these fragmentary remarks that the buyer must exercise perpetual vigilance4 ,illustration3 ,,bagging ,,cacao ,,beans ,,for ,,shipment1 ,,trinidad4 ,illustration3 ,,transferring ,,bags ,,of ,,cacao ,,beans ,,to ,,lighters1 ,,trinidad4 ,cacao ,sales4 ,before the ,cocoa ,prices ,orders were published 7,march1 #aiah7 the manner of conducting the sale of cacao in ,london was as follows4 ,brokers' lists giving the kinds of cacao for sale1 and the number of bags of each1 were sent1 together with samples1 to the buyers some days beforehand1 so that they were able to decide what they wished to purchase and the price they were willing to pay4 ,the sales always took place at #aa o'clock on ,tuesdays in the ,commercial ,sale ,room in ,mincing ,lane1 that narrow street off ,fenchurch ,street1 where the air is so highly charged with expert knowledge of the world's produce1 that it would illuminate the prosaic surroundings with brilliant flashes if it could become visible4 ,on the morning of the sale samples of the cacaos are on exhibit at the principal brokers4 ,the man in the street brought into the broker's office would ask what these strange beans might be4 ,a new kind of almond8 he might ask4 ,and then1 on being told they were cacao1 he would see nothing to choose between all the various lots and wonder why so much fuss was made over discriminating amongst the similar and distinguishing the identical4 ,he might even marvel a little at the expert knowledge of the buyers2 yet1 frankly1 the pertinent facts concerning quality1 known by the buyer1 are fewer and no more difficult to learn than the thousand and one facts a lad must have at his finger ends to pass the ,london ,matriculation2 they are valued because they are inaccessible to the multitude2 only a few people have the opportunity of learning them1 and their use may make or mar fortunes4 ,the judgment of quality is1 however1 only one side of the art of buying4 ,we have to add to these a knowledge of the conditions prevailing in the various markets of the world1 a knowledge of stocks and probable supplies1 and given this knowledge1 an ability to estimate their effect1 together with other conditions1 agricultural1 political and social1 on the price of the commodity4 ,the room in which the sales are conducted is not a large one1 and usually not more than a hundred people1 buyers1 pressmen1 etc41 are present4 ,not a single cacao bean is visible1 and it might be an auction sale of property for all the uninitiated could tell4 ,the cacao is put up in lots4 ,usually the sales proceed quietly1 and it is difficult to realize that many thousands of bags of cacao are changing hands4 ,the buyers have perfect trust in the broker's descriptions2 they know the invariable fair-play of the ,british broker1 which is a by-word the world over4 ,the machinery of the proceedings is lubricated by an easy flow of humour4 ,sometimes a few bags of sea-damaged cacao or of cacao sweepings are put up1 and a good deal of keenness is shown by the individuals who buy this stuff4 ,it is curious that a whole crowd of busy people will allow their time to be taken up whilst there is a spirited fight between two or three buyers for a single bag4 ,whilst the ,london ,auction ,sales are of importance as fixing the prices for the various markets1 and reflecting to a certain extent the position of supply and demand1 only a fraction of the world's cacao changes hands at the ,auction ,sales1 the greater part of it being bought privately for forward delivery4 ,prices and ,quotations4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,showing ,,variation ,,in ,,price ,,of ,,cacao ,,beans ,,from #aiac ,,to #aiai4 ,the price of cacao is liable to fluctuations like every other product1 thus in #aijg ,trinidad cacao rose to one shilling a pound1 whilst there have been periods when it has only fetched sixpence per pound4 ,on ,april #bnd1 #aiah1 the ,food ,controller fixed the prices of the finest qualities of the different varieties of raw cacao as follows3 ,british ,west ,africa 7,accra7 #fes4 per cwt4 ,bahia ,cameroons ,san ,thome #hes4 ,congo ,grenada ,trinidad ,demerara #ijs4 ,guayaquil ,surinam ,ceylon ,java #ajjs4 ,samoa ,the diagram on p4 #aac shows the average market price in the ,united ,kingdom of some of the more important cacaos before1 during1 and after the war4 ,the most striking change is the sudden rise when the ,government control was removed4 ,all cacaos showed a substantial advance varying from #hj to #aej per cent4 on pre-war values4 ,further large advances have taken place in the early months of #aibj4 ,the ,call of the ,tropics4 ,many a young man1 reading in some delightful book of travel1 has longed to go to the tropics and see the wonders for himself4 ,there can be no doubt that a sojourn in equatorial regions is one of the most educative of experiences4 ,in support of this ,i cannot do better than quote ,grant ,allen1 who regarded the tropics as the best of all universities4 ,but above all in educational importance ,i rank the advantage of seeing human nature in its primitive surroundings1 far from the squalid and chilly influences of the tail-end of the ,glacial epoch4 444 ,we must forget all this formal modern life2 we must break away from this cramped1 cold1 northern world2 we must find ourselves face to face at last1 in ,pacific isles or ,african forests1 with the underlying truths of simple naked nature4 ,illustration3 ,,group ,,of ,,workers ,,on ,,cacao ,,estate4 ,some are standing on the ,drying ,platform1 which is the roof of the ,fermentary4 ,many will recall how ,charles ,kingsley's longing to see the tropics was ultimately satisfied4 ,in his book1 in which he describes how he ,at ,last visited the ,west ,indies1 we read that he encountered a happy ,scotchman living a quiet life in the dear little island of ,monos4 ,i looked at the natural beauty and repose2 at the human vigour and happiness2 and ,i said to myself1 and said it often afterwards in the ,west ,indies3 ',why do not other people copy this wise ,scot8 ,why should not many a young couple1 who have education1 refinement1 resources in themselves1 but are1 happily or unhappily for them1 unable to keep a brougham and go to ,london balls1 retreat to some such paradise as this 7and there are hundreds like it to be found in the ,west ,indies71 leaving behind them false civilisation1 and vain desires1 and useless show2 and there live in simplicity and content ',the ,gentle ,life'8 ,the ,planter's ,life4 ,few who go to the tropics escape their fascination1 and of those that are young1 few return to colder climes4 ,some become overseers1 others1 more fortunate1 own the estates they manage4 ,it is inadvisable for the inexperienced to start on the enterprise of buying and planting an estate with less capital than two or three thousand pounds2 but1 once established1 a cacao plantation may be looked upon as a permanent investment1 which will continue to bear and give a good yield as long as it receives proper attention4 ,in the recently published ,letters of ,anthony ,farley the writer tells how ,farley encounters in ,south ,america an old college friend of his1 who in his early days was on the high road to a brilliant political career4 ,here he is1 a planter4 ,he explains3 ,my mother was ,spanish2 her brother owned this place4 ,when he died it came to me4 ,how did your uncle hold it through the various revolutions8 ,nothing simpler4 ,he became an ,american citizen4 ,when trouble threatened he made a bee-line for the ,united ,states ,consulate4 ,i'm ,british1 of course4 ,well1 just when ,i had decided upon a political life1 ,i found it necessary to come here to straighten things out4 ,one month lengthened itself into a year4 ,i grew fascinated4 ,here ,i felt a sense of immense usefulness4 ,on the mountain side my coffee-trees flourished2 down in the valley grew cacao4 ,i grow mine on undulations4 ,you needn't1 you know1 so long as you drain4 ,yes1 but draining on the flat is the devil4 ,anyhow1 ,i always liked animals--you haven't seen my pigs yet--and horses and mules need careful tending4 ,a cable arrived one morning announcing an impending dissolution4 ,i felt like an unwilling bridegroom called to marry an ugly bride4 ,i invited my soul4 ,here1 thought ,i to myself1 are animals and foodstuffs--good1 honest food at that4 ,if ,i go back it is only to fill people's bellies with political east wind4 ,to come to the point1 ,i decided to grow coffee and cacao4 ,i cabled infinite regrets4 ,the decision once made1 ,i was happy as a sandboy4 ,j'y suis1 j'y reste1 said ,i to myself1 said ,i4 ,nor have ,i ever cast one longing look behind4#h #h ,quoted from the ,new ,age1 where the ,letters of ,anthony ,farley first appeared4 ,this is fiction1 but ,i think it is true that very few1 if any1 who become planters in the tropics ever return permanently to ,england4 ,the hospitality of the planters is proverbial3 there must be something good and free about the planter's life to produce men so genial and generous4 ,there is a picture that ,i often recall1 and never without pleasure4 ,a young planter and ,i had1 with the help of more or less willing mules1 climbed over the hills from one valley to the next4 ,the valley we had left is noted for its beauty1 but to me it had become familiar2 the other valley ,i saw now for the first time4 ,the sides were steep and covered with trees1 and ,i could only see one dwelling in the valley4 ,we reached this by a circuitous path through cacao trees4 ,approaching it as we did1 the bungalow seemed completely cut off from the rest of the world4 ,we were welcomed by the planter and his wife1 and by those of the children who were not shy4 ,i have never seen more chubby or jolly kiddies1 and ,i know from the sweetness of the children that their mother must have given them unremitting attention4 ,i wondered indeed if she ever left them for a moment4 ,i knew1 too1 from the situation of the bungalow in the heart of the hills that visitors were not likely to be frequent4 ,the planter's life is splendid for a man who likes open air and nature1 but ,i had sometimes thought that their wives would not find the life so good4 ,i was mistaken4 ,when we came away1 after riding some distance1 through a gap in the cacao we saw across the valley a group of happy children4 ,they saw us1 and all of them1 even the shy ones1 waved us adieux4 ,illustration3 ,,carting ,,cacao ,,to ,,railway ,,station1 ,,ceylon4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,carenage1 ,,grenada4 ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,the ,indians1 from whom we borrow it1 are not very nice in doing it2 they roast the kernels in earthen pots1 then free them from their skins1 and afterwards crush and grind them between two stones1 and so form cakes of it with their hands4 ,natural ,history of ,chocolate1 ,r4 ,brookes1 #agcj4 ,early ,methods in the ,tropics4 ,as the cacao bean is grown in tropical countries1 it is there that we must look for the first attempts at manufacturing from it a drink or a foodstuff4 ,the primitive method of preparation was very simple1 consisting in roasting the beans in a pot or on a shovel to develop their flavour1 winnowing in the wind1 and then rubbing the broken shelled beans between stones until quite fine4 ,the curious thing is that on grinding the cacao bean in the heat of a tropical day we do not produce a powder but a paste4 ,this is because half the cacao bean consists of a fat which is liquid at #ij deg4 ,f41 a temperature which is reached in the shade in tropical countries4 ,this paste was then made into small rolls and put in a cool place to set4 ,thus was produced the primitive unsweetened drinking chocolate4 ,this is the method1 which ,elizabethans1 who ventured into the tangled forests of equatorial ,america1 found in use2 and this is the method they brought home to ,europe4 ,in the tropics these simple processes are followed to this day1 but in ,europe they have undergone many elaborations and refinements4 ,if the reader will look at the illustration entitled ,women grinding chocolate1 he will see how the brittle roasted bean is reduced to a paste in primitive manufacture4 ,a stone1 shaped like a rolling-pin1 is being pushed to and fro over a concave slab1 on which the smashed beans have already been reduced to a paste of a doughy consistency4 ,illustration3 ,,early ,,factory ,,methods4 ,fig4 #a is a workman roasting the cacao in an iron kettle over a furnace4 ,he has to stir the beans to keep them from burning4 ,fig4 #b is a person sifting and freeing the roasted kernels 7which when broken into fragments are called nibs7 from their husks or shell4 ,fig4 #c shows a workman pounding the shell-free nibs in an iron mortar4 ,fig4 #d represents a workman grinding the nibs on a hard smooth stone with an iron roller4 ,the grinding is performed over a chafing-dish of burning charcoal1 as it is necessary1 for ease of grinding1 to keep the paste in a liquid condition4 ,early ,european ,manufacture4 ,the conversion of these small scale operations into the early factory process is well shown in the plate which ,i reproduce above from ,arts and ,sciences1 published in #agfh4 ,illustration3 ,,women ,,grinding ,,chocolate4 ,from ,squier ,nicaragua ,a certain atmosphere of dreamy intellectuality is associated with coffee1 so that the roasting of it is felt to be a romantic occupation4 ,the same poetic atmosphere surrounded the manufacture of drinking chocolate in the early days3 the writers who revealed the secrets of its preparation were conscious that they were giving man a new aesthetic delight and the subject is treated lovingly and lingeringly4 ,one1 ,pietro ,metastasio1 went so far as to write a cantata describing its manufacture4 ,he describes the grinding as being done by a vigorous man1 and truly1 to grind by hand is a very laborious operation1 which happily in more recent times has been performed by the use of power-driven mills4 ,operations on a large scale followed the founding of ,fry and ,sons at ,bristol in #agbh1 and of ,lombart1 la plus ancienne chocolaterie de ,france1 in ,paris in #agfj4 ,in ,germany the first chocolate factory was erected at ,steinhunde in #agef1 under the patronage of ,prince ,wilhelm1 whilst in ,america the well-known firm of ,walter ,baker and ,co4 began in a small way in #agfe4 ,from the methods adopted in these factories have gradually developed the modern processes which ,i am about to describe4 ,,modern ,,practice4 ,as the early stages in the manufacture of cocoa and of chocolate are often identical1 the processes which are common to both are first described1 and then some individual consideration is given to each4 7a7 ,arrival at the ,factory4 ,the cacao is largely stored in warehouses1 from which it is removed as required4 ,it has remarkable keeping properties1 and can be kept in a good store for several years without loss of quality4 ,samples of cacao beans in glass bottles have been found to be in perfect condition after thirty years4 ,some factories have stores in which stand thousands of bags of cacao drawn from many ports round the equator4 ,there is something very pleasing about huge stacks of bags of cacao seen against the luminous white walls of a well-lighted store4 ,the symmetry of their construction1 and the continued repetition of the same form1 are never better shown than when the men1 climbing up the sides of a stack against which they look small1 unbuild the mighty heap1 the bags falling on to a continuous band which carries them jauntily out of the store4 ,illustration3 ,,part ,,of ,a ,,cacao ,,bean ,,warehouse1 ,,showing ,,endless ,,band ,,conveyor4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros'4 ,works1 ,bournville74 7b7 ,sorting the ,beans4 ,as all cacao is liable to contain a little free shell1 dried pulp 7often taken for twigs71 threads of sacking and other foreign matter1 it is very carefully sieved and sorted before passing on to the roasting shop4 ,in this process curios are occasionally separated1 such as palm kernels1 cowrie shells1 shea butter nuts1 good luck seeds and crab's eyes4 ,the essential part of one type of machine 7see illustration7 which accomplishes this sorting is an inclined revolving cylinder of wire gauze along which the beans pass4 ,the cylinder forms a continuous set of sieves of different sized mesh1 one sieve allowing only sand to pass1 another only very small beans or fragments of beans1 and finally one holding back anything larger than single beans 7e4g41 cobs1 that is1 a collection of two or more beans stuck together74 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,bean ,,sorting ,,and ,,cleaning ,,machine4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,j4 ,baker ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,willesden4 ,another type of cleaning machine is illustrated by the diagram on the opposite page4 ,this machine with its shaking sieves and blast of air makes a great clatter and fuss4 ,it produces1 however1 what the manufacturers desire--a clean bean sorted to size4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,of ,,cacao ,,bean ,,cleaning ,,machine4 ,this is a box fitted with shaking sieves down which the cacao beans pass in a current of air4 ,having come over some large and very powerful magnets1 which take out any nails or fragments of iron1 they fall on to a sieve 7#a_/d-;inch holes7 which the engineer describes as rapidly reciprocating and arranged on a slight incline and mounted on spring bars4 ,this allows grit to pass through4 ,the beans then roll down a plane on to a sieve 7#c_/h-;inch holes7 which separates the broken beans1 and finally on to a sieve with oblong holes which allows the beans to fall through whilst retaining the clusters4 ,the beans encounter a strong blast of air which brushes from them any shell or dust clinging to them4 7c7 ,roasting the ,beans4 ,as with coffee so with cacao1 the characteristic flavour and aroma are only developed on roasting4 ,messrs4 ,bainbridge and ,davies 7chemists to ,messrs4 ,rowntree7 have shown that the aroma of cacao is chiefly due to an amazingly minute quantity 7#j4jjjf per cent47 of linalool1 a colourless liquid with a powerful fragrant odour1 a modification of which occurs in bergamot1 coriander and lavender4 ,everyone notices the aromatic odour which permeates the atmosphere round a chocolate factory4 ,this odour is a bye-product of the roasting shop2 possibly some day an enterprising chemist will prevent its escape or capture it1 and sell it in bottles for flavouring confectionery1 but for the present it serves only to announce in an appetising way the presence of a cocoa or chocolate works4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,gas ,,heated ,,cacao ,,roaster4 ,roasting is a delicate operation requiring experience and discretion4 ,even in these days of scientific management it remains as much an art as a science4 ,it is conducted in revolving drums to ensure constant agitation1 the drums being heated either over coke fires or by gas4 ,less frequently the heating is effected by a hot blast of air or by having inside the drum a number of pipes containing super-heated steam4 ,illustration3 ,,roasting ,,cacao ,,beans4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros'4 ,works1 ,bournville74 ,the diagram and photo show one of the types of roasting machines used at ,bournville4 ,it resembles an ordinary coffee roaster1 the beans being fed in through a hopper and heated by gas in the slowly revolving cylinder4 ,the beans can be heard lightly tumbling one over the other1 and the aroma round the roaster increases in fullness as they get hotter and hotter4 ,the temperature which the beans reach in ordinary roasting is not very high1 varying round #ace deg4 ,c4 7#bge deg4 ,f71 and the average period of roasting is about one hour4 ,the amount of loss of weight on roasting is considerable 7some seven or eight per cent471 and varies with the amount of moisture present in the raw beans4 ,there have been attempts to replace the aesthetic judgment of man1 as to the point at which to stop roasting1 by scientific machinery4 ,one rather interesting machine was so devised that the cacao roasting drum was fitted with a sort of steelyard1 and this1 when the loss of weight due to roasting had reached a certain amount1 swung over and rang a bell1 indicating dramatically that the roasting was finished4 ,as beans vary amongst other things in the percentage of moisture which they contain1 the machine has not replaced the experienced operator4 ,he takes samples from the drum from time to time1 and when the aroma has the character desired1 the beans are rapidly discharged into a trolley with a perforated bottom1 which is brought over a cold current of air4 ,the object of this refinement is to stop the roasting instantly and prevent even a suspicion of burning4 ,after roasting1 the shell is brittle and quite free from the cotyledons or kernel4 ,the kernel has become glossy and friable and chocolate brown in colour1 and it crushes readily between the fingers into small angular fragments 7the nibs of commerce71 giving off during the breaking down a rich warm odour of chocolate4 7d7 ,removing the ,shells4 ,it has been stated 7see ,fatty ,foods1 by ,revis and ,bolton7 that it was formerly the practice not to remove the shell4 ,this is incorrect1 the more usual practice from the earliest times has been to remove the shells1 though not so completely as they are removed by the efficient machinery of to-day4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,bean1 ,,shell ,,and ,,germ4 ,in ,a ,curious ,treatise on the ,nature and ,quality of ,chocolate1 by ,antonio ,colmenero de ,ledesma 7#afhe71 we read3 ,and if you peel the cacao1 and take it out of its little shell1 the drink thereof will be more dainty and delicious4 ,willoughby1 in his ,travels in ,spain1 7#affd71 writes3 ,they first toast the berries to get off the husk1 and ,r4 ,brookes1 in the ,natural ,history of ,chocolate 7#agcj71 says3 ,the ,indians 444 roast the kernels in earthen pots1 then free them from their skins1 and afterwards crush and grind them between two stones4 ,he further definitely recommends that the beans be roasted enough to have their skins come off easily1 which should be done one by one1 laying them apart 444 for these skins being left among the chocolate1 will not dissolve in any liquor1 nor even in the stomach1 and fall to the bottom of the chocolate-cups as if the kernels had not been cleaned4 ,that the ,indian practice of removing the shells was followed from the commencement of the industry in ,england1 is shown by the old plate which we have reproduced on p4 #abj from ,arts and ,sciences4 ,the removal of the shell1 which in the raw condition is tough and adheres to the kernel1 is greatly facilitated by roasting4 ,if we place a roasted bean in the palm of the hand and press it with the thumb1 the whole cracks up into crisp pieces4 ,it is now quite easy to blow away the thin pieces of shell because they offer a greater surface to the air and are lighter than the compact little lumps or nibs which are left behind4 ,this illustrates the principle of all shelling or husking machines4 7e7 ,breaking the ,bean into ,fragments4 ,the problem is to break down the bean to just the right size4 ,the pieces must be sufficiently small to allow the nib and shell readily to part company1 but it is important to remember that the smaller the pieces of shell and nib1 the less efficient will the winnowing be1 and it is usual to break the beans whilst they are still warm to avoid producing particles of extreme fineness4 ,the breaking down may be accomplished by passing the beans through a pair of rollers at such a distance apart that the bean is cracked without being crushed4 ,or it may be effected in other ways1 e4g41 by the use of an adjustable serrated cone revolving in a serrated conical case4 ,in the diagram they are called kibbling cones4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,kibbling ,,cones ,,and ,,germ ,,screens4 7f7 ,separating the ,germs4 ,about one per cent4 of the cacao bean fragments consists of germs4 ,the germ is the radicle of the cacao seed1 or that part of the cacao seed which on germination forms the root4 ,the germs are small and rod-shaped1 and being very hard are generally assumed to be less digestible than the nib4 ,they are separated by being passed through revolving gauze drums1 the holes in which are the same size and shape as the germs1 so that the germs pass through whilst the nib is retained4 ,if a freakish carpenter were to try separating shop-floor sweepings1 consisting of a jumble of chunks of wood 7nib71 shavings 7shell7 and nails 7germ7 by sieving through a grid-iron1 he would find that not only the nails passed through but also some sawdust and fine shavings4 ,so in the above machine the finer nib and shell pass through with the germ4 ,this germ mixture1 known as smalls is dealt with in a special machine1 whilst the larger nib and shell are conveyed to the chief winnowing machine4 ,in this machine the mixture is first sorted according to size and then the nib and shell separated from one another4 ,the mixture is passed down long revolving cylindrical sieves and encounters a larger and larger mesh as it proceeds1 and thus becomes sieved into various sizes4 ,the separation of the shell from the nib is now effected by a powerful current of air1 the large nib falling against the current1 whilst the shell is carried with it and drops into another compartment4 ,it is amusing to stand and watch the continuous stream of nibs rushing down1 like hail in a storm1 into the screw conveyor4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,winnowing ,,machine4 ,this is the process in essence--to follow the various partially separated mixtures of shell and nib through the several further separating machines would be tedious2 it is sufficient for the reader to know that after the most elaborate precautions have been taken the nib still contains about one per cent4 of shell1 and that the nib obtained is only #gh4e per cent4 of the weight of raw beans originally taken4 ,most of the larger makers of cocoa produce nib containing less than two per cent4 of shell1 a standard which can only be maintained by continuous vigilance4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,grinding4 ,a battery of horizontal grinding mills1 by which the cacao nibs are ground to paste 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,bournville47 ,the shell1 the only waste material of any importance produced in a chocolate factory1 goes straight into sacks ready for sale4 ,the pure cacao nibs 7once an important article of commerce7 proceed to the blenders and thence to the grinding mill4 7g7 ,blending4 ,we have seen that the beans are roasted separately according to their kind and country so as to develop in each its characteristic flavour4 ,the pure nib is now blended in proportions which are carefully chosen to attain the result desired4 7h7 ,grinding the ,cacao ,nibs to ,produce ,mass4 ,in this process1 by the mere act of grinding1 the miracle is performed of converting the brittle fragments of the cacao bean into a chocolate-coloured fluid4 ,half of the cacao bean is fat1 and the grinding breaks up the cells and liberates the fat1 which at blood heat melts to an oil4 ,any of the various machines used in the industries for grinding might be used1 but a special type of mill has been devised for the purpose4 ,in the grinding room of a cocoa factory one becomes almost hypnotised by a hundred of these circular mill-stones that rotate incessantly day and night4 ,in ,messrs4 ,fry's factory the giddy motion of the whirling mill is very much increased by a number of magnificent horizontal driving wheels1 each some #bj feet in diameter1 which form1 as it were1 a revolving ceiling to the room4 ,your fascinated gaze beholds two or three vast circles1 that have their revolving satellites like moons1 each on its own axis1 and each governed by master wheels4 ,watch them for any length of time and you might find yourself presently going round and round with them until you whirled yourself out of existence1 like the gyrating maiden in the fairy tale4 ,in this type of grinding machine one mill stone rotates on a fixed stone4 ,the cacao nib falls from a hopper through a hole in the centre of the upper stone and1 owing to the manner in which grooves are cut in the two surfaces in contact1 is gradually dragged between the stones4 ,the grooves are so cut in the two stones that they point in opposite directions1 and as the one stone revolves on the other1 a slicing or shearing action is produced4 ,the friction1 due to the slicing and shearing of the nib1 keeps the stones hot1 and they become sufficiently warm to melt the fat in the ground nib1 so that there oozes from the outer edge of the bottom or fixed stone a more or less viscous liquid or paste4 ,this finely ground nib is known as mass4 ,it is simply liquified cacao bean1 and solidifies on cooling to a chocolate coloured block4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,grinding ,,stones4 ,this mass may be used for the production of either cocoa or chocolate4 ,when part of the fat 7cacao butter7 is taken away the residue may be made to yield cocoa4 ,when sugar and cacao butter are added it yields eating chocolate4 ,thus the two industries are seen to be inter-dependent1 the cacao butter which is pressed out of the mass in the manufacture of cocoa being used up in the production of chocolate4 ,the manufacture of cocoa will first be considered4 7i7 ,pressing out the excess of ,butter4 ,the liquified cacao bean or mass1 simply mixed with sugar and cooled until it becomes a hard cake1 has been used by the ,british ,navy for a hundred years or more for the preparation of ,jack's cup of cocoa4 ,it produces a fine rich drink much appreciated by our hardy seamen1 but it is somewhat too fatty to mix evenly with water1 and too rich to be suitable for those with delicate digestions4 ,hence for the ordinary cocoa of commerce it is usual to remove a portion of this fat4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,cacao ,,press4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,lake1 ,orr ,co41 ,ltd4 ,if mass be put into a cloth and pressed1 a golden oil 7melted cacao butter7 oozes through the cloth4 ,in practice this extraction of the butter is done in various types of presses4 ,in one of the most frequently used types1 the mass is poured into circular steel pots1 the top and bottom of which are loose perforated plates lined with felt pads4 ,a number of such pots are placed one above another1 and then rammed together by a powerful hydraulic ram4 ,they look like the parts of a slowly collapsing telescope4 ,the mass is only gently pressed at first1 but as the butter flows away and the material in the pot becomes stiffer1 it is subjected to a gradually increasing pressure4 ,the ram1 being under pressure supplied by pumps1 pushes up with enormous force4 ,the steel pots have to be sufficiently strong to bear a great strain1 as the ram often exerts a pressure of #f1jjj pounds per square inch4 ,when the required amount of butter has been pressed out1 the pot is found to contain not a paste1 but a hard dry cake of compressed cocoa4 ,the liquified cacao bean put into the pots contains #ed to #ee per cent4 of butter1 whilst the cocoa press-cake taken out usually contains only #be to #cj per cent4 ,the expressed butter flows away and is filtered and solidified 7see page #aeh74 ,all that it is necessary to do to obtain cocoa from the press cake is to powder it4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,cacao ,,press-,,pot ,,and ,,ram-,,plate4 7j7 ,breaking ,down the ,press ,cake to ,cocoa ,powder4 ,the slabs of press-cake are so hard and tough that if one were banged on a man's head it would probably stun him4 ,they are broken down in a crushing mill1 the inside of which is as full of terrible teeth as a giant's mouth1 until the fragments are small enough to grind on steel rollers4 7k7 ,sieving4 ,as fineness is a very important quality of cocoa1 the powder so obtained is very carefully sieved4 ,this is effected by shaking the powder into an inclined rotating drum which is covered with silk gauze4 ,in the cocoa which passes through this fine silk sieve1 the average length of the individual particles is about #j4jja inch1 whilst in first-class productions the size of the larger particles in the cocoa does not average more than #j4jjb inch4 ,indeed1 the cocoa powder is so fine that in spite of all precautions a certain amount always floats about in the air of sieving rooms1 and covers everything with a brown film4 7l7 ,packing4 ,the cocoa powder is taken to the packing rooms4 ,here the tedious weighing by hand has been replaced by ingenious machines1 which deliver with remarkable accuracy a definite weight of cocoa into the paper bag which lines the tin4 ,the tins are then labelled and packed in cases ready for the grocer4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,chocolate ,since the great improvements of the steam engine1 it is astonishing to what a variety of manufactures this useful machine has been applied3 yet it does not a little excite our surprise that one is used for the trifling object of grinding chocolate4 ,it is1 however1 a fact1 or at least1 we are credibly informed1 that ,mr4 ,fry1 of ,bristol1 has in his new manufactory one of these engines for the sole purpose of manufacturing chocolate and cocoa4 ,berrow's ,worcester ,journal1 ,june #gth1 #agih4 ,what ,i am about to write under this heading will only be of a general character4 ,those who require a more detailed exposition are referred to the standard works given at the end of the chapter4 ,in these1 full and accurate information will be found4 ,the information published in modern ,encyclopaedias1 etc41 concerning the manufacture of chocolate is not always as reliable as one might expect4 ,thus it states in ,jack's excellent ,reference ,book 7#aiad7 that ,chocolate is made by the addition of water and sugar4 ,the use of water in the manufacture of chocolate is contrary to all usual practice1 so much so that great interest was aroused in the trade some years ago by the statement that water was being used by a firm in ,germany4 ,,specimen ,,outline ,,recipe4 ,ingredients required for plain eating-chocolate4 ,cacao nib or mass #cc parts4 ,cacao butter #ac ,sugar #ec-c_/d ,flavouring #a_/d ------------- #ajj parts ,since eating-chocolate is produced by mixing sugar and cacao nib1 with or without flavouring materials1 and reducing to a fine homogeneous mass1 the principles underlying its manufacture are obviously simple1 yet when we come to consider the production of a modern high-class chocolate we find the processes involved are somewhat elaborate4 7a7 ,preparing the ,nib or ,mass4 ,the nib is obtained in exactly the same way as in the manufacture of cocoa1 the beans being cleaned1 roasted and shelled4 ,the roasting1 however1 is generally somewhat lighter for chocolate than for cocoa4 ,the nibs produced may be used as they are1 or they may be first ground to mass by means of mill-stones as described above4 7b7 ,mixing in the ,sugar4 ,some makers use clear crystalline granulated sugar1 others disintegrate loaf sugar to a beautiful snow-white flour4 ,the nib1 coarse or finely ground1 is mixed with the sugar in a kind of edge-runner or grinding-mixer1 called a melangeur4 ,as is seen in the photo1 the melangeur consists of two heavy mill-stones which are supported on a granite floor4 ,this floor revolves and causes the stationary mill-stones to rotate on their axes1 so that although they run rapidly1 like a man on a joy wheel1 they make no headway4 ,the material is prevented from accumulating at the sides by curved scrapers1 which gracefully deflect the stream of material to the part of the revolving floor which runs under the mill-stones4 ,thus the sugar and nib are mixed and crushed4 ,as the mixture usually becomes like dough in consistency1 it can be neatly removed from the melangeur with a shovel4 ,the operator rests a shovel lightly on the revolving floor1 and the material mounts into a heap upon it4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate ,,melangeur4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,lake4 ,orr ,coy4 ,ltd4 ,illustration3 ,,plan ,,of ,,chocolate ,,melangeur4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate ,,refining ,,machine4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,j4 ,baker ,sons1 ,willesden4 7c7 ,grinding the ,mixture4 ,the mixture is now passed through a mill1 which has been described as looking like a multiple mangle4 ,the object of this is to break down the sugar and cacao to smaller particles4 ,the rolls may be made either of granite 7more strictly speaking1 of quartz diorite7 or of polished chilled cast iron4 ,chilled cast iron rolls have the advantage that they can be kept cool by having water flowing through them4 ,a skilled operator is required to set the rolls in order that they may give a large and satisfactory output4 ,the cylinders in contact run at different speeds1 and1 as will be seen in the diagram1 the chocolate always clings to the roll which is revolving with the greater velocity1 and is delivered from the rolls either as a curtain of chocolate or as a spray of chocolate powder4 ,it is very striking to see the soft chocolate-coloured dough become1 after merely passing between the rolls1 a dry powder--the explanation is that the sugar having been more finely crushed now requires a greater quantity of cacao butter to lubricate it before the mixture can again become plastic4 ,the chocolate in its various stages of manufacture1 should be kept warm or it will solidify and much time and heat 7and possibly temper7 will be absorbed in remelting it2 for this and other reasons most chocolate factories have a number of hot rooms1 in which the chocolate is stored whilst waiting to pass on to the next operation4 ,the dry powder coming from the rolls is either taken to a hot room1 or at once mixed in a warm melangeur1 where curiously enough the whole becomes once again of the consistency of dough4 ,the grinding between the rolls and the mixing in the melangeur are repeated any number of times until the chocolate is of the desired fineness4 ,whilst there are a few people who like the clean1 hard feel of sugar crystals between the teeth1 the present-day taste is all for very smooth and highly refined chocolate2 hence the grinding operation is one of the most important in the factory1 and is checked at the works at ,bournville by measuring with a microscope the size of the particles4 ,the cost of fine grinding is considerable1 for whilst the first breaking down of the cacao nibs and sugar crystals is comparatively easy1 it is found that as the particles of chocolate get finer the cost of further reduction increases by leaps and bounds4 ,the chocolate may now proceed direct to the moulding rooms or it may first be conched4 ,illustration3 ,,grinding ,,cacao ,,nib ,,and ,,sugar4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,bournville74 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,chocolate ,,grinding ,,rolls4 7d7 ,conching4 ,we now come to an extraordinary process which is said to have been originally introduced to satisfy a fastidious taste that demanded a chocolate which readily melted in the mouth and yet had not the cloying effect which is produced by excess of cacao butter4 ,in this process the chocolate is put in a vessel shaped something like a shell 7hence called a conche71 and a heavy roller is pushed to and fro in the chocolate4 ,although the conche is considered to have revolutionized the chocolate industry1 it will remain to the uninitiated a curious sight to see a room full of machines engaged in pummelling chocolate day and night4 ,there is no general agreement as to exactly how the conche produces its effects--from the scientific point of view the changes are complex and elusive1 and too technical to explain here--but it is well known that if this process is continued for periods varying according to the result desired from a few hours to a week1 characteristic changes occur which make the chocolate a more mellow and finished confection1 having more or less the velvet feel of chocolat fondant4 7e7 ,flavouring4 ,art is shown not only in the choice of the cacao beans but also in the selection of spices and essences1 for1 whilst the fundamental flavour of a chocolate is determined by the blend of beans and the method of manufacture1 the piquancy and special character are often obtained by the addition of minute quantities of flavourings4 ,the point in the manufacture at which the flavour is added is as late as possible so as to avoid the possible loss of aroma in handling4 ,the flavours used include cardamom1 cassia1 cinnamon1 cloves1 coriander1 lemon1 mace1 and last but most popular of all1 the vanilla pod or vanillin4 ,some makers use the choice spices themselves1 others prefer their essential oils4 ,many other nutty1 fragrant and aromatic substances have been used2 of these we may mention almonds1 coffee1 musk1 ambergris1 gum benzoin and balsam of ,peru4 ,the ,english like delicately flavoured confections1 whilst the ,spanish follow the old custom of heavily spicing the chocolate4 ,in ancient recipes we read of the use of white and red peppers1 and the addition of hot spices was defended and even recommended on purely philosophical grounds4 ,it was given1 in the strange jargon of the ,peripatetics1 as a dictum that chocolate is by nature cold and dry and therefore ought to be mixed with things which are hot4 ,illustration3 ,,conche ,,machines4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,j4 ,baker ,sons1 ,willesden4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,through ,,conche ,,machine4 ,illustration3 ,,machines ,,for ,,mixing ,,or ,,conching ,,chocolate4 7f7 ,moulding4 ,small quantities of cacao butter will have been added to the chocolate at various stages1 and hence the finished product is quite plastic4 ,it is now brought from the hot room 7or the melangeur or the conche7 to the moulding rooms4 ,before moulding1 the chocolate is passed through a machine1 known as a compressor1 which removes air-bubbles4 ,this is a necessary process1 as people would not care to purchase chocolate full of holes4 ,as in the previous operations1 every effort has been made to produce a chocolate of smooth texture and fine flavour1 so in the moulding rooms skill is exercised in converting the plastic mass into hard bars and cakes1 which snap when broken and which have a pleasant appearance4 ,well-moulded chocolate has a good gloss1 a rich colour and a correct shape4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate ,,shaking ,,table4 ,the most important factor in obtaining a good appearance is the temperature1 and chocolate is frequently passed through a machine 7called a tempering machine7 merely to give it the desired temperature4 ,a suitable temperature for moulding1 according to ,zipperer1 varies from #bh deg4 ,c4 on a hot summer's day to #cb deg4 ,c4 on a winter's day4 ,as the melting point of cacao butter is about #cb deg4 ,c1 it will be realized that the butter is super-cooled and is ready to crystallize on the slightest provocation4 ,each mould has to contain the same quantity of chocolate4 ,weighing by hand has been abandoned in favour of a machine which automatically deposits a definite weight1 such as a quarter or half a pound1 of the chocolate paste on each mould4 ,the chocolate stands up like a lump of dough and has to be persuaded to lie down and fill the mould4 ,this can be most effectively accomplished by banging the mould up and down on a table4 ,in the factory the method used is to place the moulds on rocking tables which rise gradually and fall with a bump4 ,the diagram will make clear how these vibrating tables are worked by means of ratchet wheels4 ,rocking tables are made which are silent in action1 but the moulds jerkily dancing about on the table make a very lively clatter1 such a noise as might be produced by a regiment of mad cavalry crossing a courtyard4 ,during the shaking-up the chocolate fills every crevice of the mould1 and any bubbles1 which if left in would spoil the appearance of the chocolate1 rise to the top4 ,the chocolate then passes on to an endless band which conducts the mould through a chamber in which cold air is moving4 ,as the chocolate cools1 it solidifies and contracts so that it comes out of the mould clean and bright4 ,in this way are produced the familiar sticks and cakes of chocolate4 ,a similar method is used in producing ,croquettes and the small tablets known as ,neapolitans4 ,other forms require more elaborate moulds2 thus the chocolate eggs1 which fill the confectioners' windows just before ,easter1 are generally hollow1 unless they are very small1 and are made in two halves by pressing chocolate in egg-shaped moulds and then uniting the two halves4 ,chocolate cremes1 caramels1 almonds and1 in fact1 fancy chocolates generally1 are produced in quite a different manner4 ,for these chocolats de fantaisie a rather liquid chocolate is required known as covering chocolate4 ,,specimen ,,outline ,,recipe4 ,ingredients required for chocolate for covering cremes1 etc43 ,cacao nib or mass #cj parts ,cacao butter #bj ,sugar #di-c_/d ,flavouring #a_/d ------------- #ajj parts ,it is prepared in exactly the same way as ordinary eating chocolate1 save that more butter is added to make it flow readily1 so that in the melted condition it has about the same consistency as cream4 ,the operations so far described are conducted by men1 but the covering of cremes and the packing of the finished chocolates into boxes are performed by girls4 ,covering is light work requiring a delicate touch1 and if1 as is usual1 it is done in bright airy rooms1 is a pleasant occupation4 ,illustration3 ,,girls ,,covering1 ,,or ,,dipping1 ,,cremes1 ,,etc4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,bournville47 ,the girl sits with a small bowl of warm liquid chocolate in front of her1 and on one side the centres 7cremes1 caramels1 ginger1 nuts1 etc47 ready for covering with chocolate4 ,the chocolate must be at just the right temperature1 which is #hh deg4,f41 or #ca deg4 ,c4 ,she takes one of the centres1 say a vanilla creme1 on her fork and dips it beneath the chocolate4 ,when she draws it out1 the white creme is completely covered in brown chocolate and1 without touching it with her finger1 she deftly places it on a piece of smooth paper4 ,a little twirl of the fork or drawing a prong across the chocolate will give the characteristic marking on the top of the chocolate creme4 ,the chocolate rapidly sets to a crisp film enveloping the soft creme4 ,there are in use in many chocolate factories some very ingenious covering machines1 invented in #aijc1 which1 as they clothe cremes in a robe of chocolate1 are known as enrobers2 it is doubtful1 however1 if the chocolates so produced have even quite so good an appearance as when the covering is done by hand4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,enrober4 ,a machine for covering cremes1 etc41 with chocolate4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,savy ,jeanjean ,co41 ,paris4 ,it would be agreeable at this point to describe the making of cremes 7which1 by the way1 contrary to the opinion of most writers1 contain no cream or butter71 and other products of the confectioner's art1 but it would take us beyond the scope of the present book4 ,we will only remind our readers of the great variety of comestibles and confections which are covered in chocolate--pistachio nut1 roasted almonds1 pralines1 biscuits1 walnuts1 nougat1 montelimar1 fruits1 fruit cremes1 jellies1 ,turkish delight1 marshmallows1 caramels1 pine-apple1 noisette1 and other delicacies4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,confectionery ,,room ,,at ,,messrs4 ,,cadbury',s ,,works ,,at ,,bournville4 ,cutting almond paste by hand moulds4 ,milk ,chocolate4 ,we owe the introduction of this excellent food and confection to the researches of ,m4,d4 ,peter of ,vevey1 in ,switzerland1 who produced milk chocolate as early as #ahgf4 ,many of our older readers will remember their delight when in the eighteen nineties they first tasted ,peter's milk chocolate4 ,later the then little firm of ,cailler1 realising the importance of having the factory on the very spot where rich milk was produced in abundance1 established a works near ,gruyeres4 ,this grew rapidly and soon became the largest factory in ,switzerland4 ,the sound principle of having your factory in the heart of a milk producing area was adopted by ,cadbury's1 who built milk condensing factories at the ancient village of ,frampton-on-,severn1 in ,gloucestershire1 and at ,knighton1 near ,newport1 ,salop4 ,before the war these two factories together condensed from two to three million gallons of milk a year4 ,whilst the amount of milk used in ,england for making milk chocolate appears very great when expressed in gallons1 it is seen to be very small 7being only about one-half of one per cent47 when expressed as a fraction of the total milk production4 ,milk chocolate is not made from milk produced in the winter1 when milk is scarce1 but from milk produced in the spring and summer when there is milk in excess of the usual household requirements1 and when it is rich and creamy4 ,the importance of not interfering with the normal milk supply to local customers is appreciated by the chocolate makers1 who take steps to prevent this4 ,it will interest public analysts and others to know that ,cadbury's have had no difficulty in making it a stipulation in their contracts with the vendors that the milk supplied to them shall contain at least #c4e per cent4 of butter fat1 a #ag per cent4 increase on the minimum fixed by the ,government4 ,illustration3 ,,factory ,,at ,,frampton1 ,,gloucestershire1 ,,at ,,which ,,milk ,,is ,,evaporated ,,for ,,milk ,,chocolate ,,manufacture4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,ltd474 ,,specimen ,,outline ,,recipe4 ,ingredients required for milk chocolate3 ,cacao nib or mass 7from #aj to #bj per cent471 say #aj ,cacao ,butter #bj ,sugar #dd-c_/d ,milk solids 7from #ae to #be per cent471 say #be7bjj parts of milk47 ,flavouring #a_/d -------- #ajj ,milk chocolate consists of an intimate mixture of cacao nib1 sugar and milk1 condensed by evaporation4 ,the manner in which the milk is mixed with the cacao nib is a matter of taste1 and the art of combining milk with chocolate1 so as to retain the full flavour of each1 has engaged the attention of many experts4 ,at present there is no general method of manufacture--each maker has his own secret processes1 which generally include the use of grinding mills1 melangeurs1 conches1 moulding machines1 etc41 as with plain chocolate4 ,we cannot do better than refer those who wish to know more of this1 or other branch of the chocolate industry1 to the following ,english1 ,french and ,german standard works on ,chocolate ,manufacture3 ,cocoa and ,chocolate1 ,their ,chemistry and ,manufacture1 by ,r4 ,whymper 7,churchill74 ,fabrication du ,chocolat1 by ,fritsch 7,scientifique et ,industrielle74 ,the ,manufacture of ,chocolate1 by ,dr4 ,paul ,zipperer 7,spon74 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,by-,,products ,,of ,,the ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,,industry ,of ,cacao ,butter4-- ,it is the best and most natural ,pomatum for ,ladies to clear and plump the ,skin when it is dry1 rough1 or shrivel'd1 without making it appear either fat or shining4 ,the ,spanish ,women at ,mexico use it very much1 and it is highly esteem'd by them4 ,the ,natural ,history of ,chocolate1 ,r4 ,brookes1 #agcj4 ,of ,cacao ,shell4-- ,in ,russia and ,belgium many families take ,caravello at breakfast4 ,this is nothing but cocoa husk1 washed and then boiled in milk4 ,chocolate and ,confectionery ,manufacture1 ,a4 ,jacoutot4 ,cacao ,butter4 ,in that very able compilation1 ,allen's ,organic ,analysis1 ,mr4 ,leonard ,archbutt states 7,vol4 ,,ii1 p4 #agf7 that cacao butter is obtained in large quantities as a by-product in the manufacture of chocolate4 ,this is repeated in the excellent book on ,oils1 by ,c4,a4 ,mitchell 7,common ,commodities of ,commerce series74 ,these statements are1 of course1 incorrect4 ,we have seen that cacao butter is obtained as a by-product in the manufacture of cocoa1 and is consumed in large quantities in the manufacture of chocolate4 ,when1 during the war1 the use of sugar for chocolate-making was restricted and little chocolate was produced1 the cacao butter formerly used in this industry was freed for other purposes4 ,thus there was plenty of cacao butter available at a time when other fats were scarce4 ,cacao butter has a pleasant1 bland taste resembling cocoa4 ,the cocoa flavour is very persistent1 as many experimenters found to their regret in their efforts to produce a tasteless cacao butter which could be used as margarine or for general purposes in cooking4 ,the scarcity of edible fats during the war forced the confectioners to try cacao butter1 which in normal times is too expensive for them to use1 and as a result a very large amount was employed in making biscuits and confectionery4 ,cacao butter runs hot from the presses as an amber-coloured oil1 and after nitration1 sets to a pale golden yellow wax-like fat4 ,the butter1 which the pharmacist sells1 is sometimes white and odourless1 having been bleached and deodorized4 ,the butter as produced is always pale yellow in colour1 with a semi-crystalline or granular fracture and an agreeable taste and odour resembling cocoa or chocolate4 ,cacao butter has such remarkable keeping properties 7which would appear to depend on the aromatic substances which it contains71 that a myth has arisen that it will keep for ever4 ,the fable finds many believers even in scientific circles2 thus ,w4,h4 ,johnson1 in the ,imperial ,institute ,handbook on ,cocoa1 states that3 ,when pure1 it has the peculiar property of not becoming rancid1 however long it may be kept4 ,whilst this overstates the case1 we find that under suitable conditions cacao butter will remain fresh and good for several years4 ,cacao butter has rather a low melting point 7#ij deg4 ,f471 so that whilst it is a hard1 almost brittle1 solid at ordinary temperatures1 it melts readily when in contact with the human body 7blood heat #ih deg4 ,f74 ,this property1 together with its remarkable stability1 makes it useful for ointments1 pomades1 suppositories1 pessaries and other pharmaceutical preparations2 it also explains why actors have found it convenient for the removal of grease paint4 ,the recognition of the value of cacao butter for cosmetic purposes dates from very early days2 thus in ,colmenero de ,ledesma's ,curious ,treatise on the ,nature and ,quality of ,chocolate 7printed at the ,green ,dragon1 #afhe71 we read3 ,that they draw from the cacao a great quantity of butter1 which they use to make their faces shine1 which ,i have seen practised in the ,indies by the ,spanish women born there4 ,this1 evidently1 was one way of shining in society4 ,cacao butter has been put to many other uses1 thus it has been employed in the preparation of perfumes1 but the great bulk of the cacao butter produced is used up by the chocolate maker4 ,for making chocolate it is ideal1 and the demand for it for this purpose is so great that substitutes have been found and offered for sale4 ,until recently these fats1 coconut stearine and others1 could be ignored by the reputable chocolate makers as the confection produced by their use was inferior to true chocolate both in taste and in keeping properties4 ,in recent times the oils and fats of tropical nuts and fruits have been thoroughly investigated in the eager search for new fats1 and new substitutes1 such as illipe butter1 have been introduced1 the properties of which closely resemble those of cacao butter4 ,for the information of chemists we may state that the analytical figures for genuine cacao butter1 as obtained in the cocoa factory1 are as follow3 ,,analytical ,,figures ,,for ,,cacao ,,butter4 ,specific ,gravity 7at #ii deg4 ,c4 to water at #ae4e deg4 ,c47 4#heh to 4#hfe ,melting ,point #cb deg4,c4 to #cd deg4,c4 ,titer 7fatty acids7 #di deg4,c4 to #ej deg4,c4 ,iodine ,absorbed #cd to #ch ,refraction 7,butyro-,refractometer7 at #dj deg4,c4 #de4f deg4 to #df4e deg4 ,saponification ,value #aib to #aih ,valenta #id deg4,c4 to #if deg4,c4 ,reichert ,meissel ,value #a4j ,polenske ,value #j4e ,kirschner #j4e ,shrewsbury and ,knapp ,value #ad to #ae ,unsaponifiable matter #j4c to #j4h ,mineral matter #j4jb to #j4je ,acidity 7as oleic acid7 #j4f to #b4j ,although the trade in cacao butter is considerable1 there were1 before the war1 only two countries that could really be considered as exporters of cacao butter2 in other words1 there were only two countries1 namely1 ,holland and ,germany1 pressing out more cacao butter in the production of cocoa than they absorbed in making chocolate3 ,,export ,,of ,,cacao ,,butter4 ,tons 7of #ajjj kilogrammes7 #aiaa #aiab #aiac ,holland #d1feg #e1dgb #g1afj ,germany #c1faa #c1eha #a1ifj ----- ----- ----- #h1bfh #i1jec #i1abj ----- ----- ----- ,during the war ,america appeared for the first time in her history as an exporter of cacao butter4 ,hitherto she was one of the principal importers1 as will be seen in the following table3 ,,imports ,,of ,,cacao ,,butter4 ,tons 7of #ajjj kilogrammes7 #aiab #aiac ,united ,states #a1hdb #a1fcd ,switzerland #a1hba #a1fcd ,belgium #a1abg #a1aig ,austria-,hungary #a1jfb #a1aij ,russia #iee #a1aig ,england #die #icd ,the next table shows the imports 7expressed in ,english tons7 into the ,united ,kingdom in more recent years3 ,,imports ,,of ,,cacao ,,butter4 ,year #aiab #aiac #aiad #aiae #aiaf #aiag ,tons #dgg #iab #aeab #eii #ifb #fge ,the wholesale price of cacao butter has varied in the last six years from #a_/c per pound to #b_/aa per pound1 and was fixed in #aiah by the ,food ,controller at #a_/f per pound 7retail price #b_/- per pound74 ,the control was removed in #aiai1 and immediately the wholesale price rose to #b_/h per pound4 ,cacao ,shell4 ,although ,i have described cacao butter as a by-product1 the only true by-product of the combined cocoa and chocolate industry is cacao shell4 ,i explained in the previous chapter how it is separated from the roasted bean4 ,as they come from the husking or winnowing machine1 the larger fragments of shell resemble the shell of monkey-nuts 7ground nuts or pea nuts71 except that the cacao shells are thinner1 more brittle and of a richer brown colour4 ,the shell has a pleasant odour in which a little true cocoa aroma can be detected4 ,the small pieces of shell look like bran1 and1 if the shell be powdered1 the product is wonderfully like cocoa in appearance1 though not in taste or smell4 ,as the raw cacao bean contains on the average about twelve and a half per cent4 of shell1 it is evident that the world production must be considerable 7about #cf1jjj tons a year71 and since it is not legitimately employed in cocoa1 the brains of inventors have been busy trying to find a use for it4 ,in some industries the by-product has proved on investigation to be of greater value than the principal product--a good instance of this is glycerine as a by-product in soap manufacture--but no use for the husk or shell of cacao1 which gives it any considerable commercial value1 has yet been discovered4 ,there are signs1 however1 that its possible uses are being considered and appreciated4 ,for years small quantities of cacao shell1 under the name of miserables1 have been used in ,ireland and other countries for producing a dilute infusion for drinking4 ,although this cocoa tea is not unpleasant1 and has mild stimulating properties1 it has never been popular1 and even during the war1 when it was widely advertised and sold in ,england under fancy names at fancy prices1 it never had a large or enthusiastic body of consumers4 ,in normal times the cocoa manufacturer has no difficulty in disposing of his shell to cattle-food makers and others1 but during #aiae when the train service was so defective1 and transport by any other means almost impossible1 the manufacturers of cocoa and chocolate were unable to get the shell away from their factories1 and had large accumulations of it filling up valuable store space4 ,in these circumstances they attempted to find a use near at hand4 ,it was tried with moderate success as a fuel and a considerable quantity was burned in a special type of gas-producer intended for wood4 ,cacao shell has a high nitrogenous content1 and if burned yields about #fg lbs4 of potassium carbonate per ton4 ,in the ,annual ,report of the ,experimental ,farms in ,canada1 7#ahih1 p4 #aea and #ahii1 p4 #hea17 accounts are given of the use of cacao shell as a manure4 ,the results given are encouraging1 and experiments were made at ,bournville4 ,at first these were only moderately successful1 because the shell is extremely stable and decomposes in the ground very slowly indeed4 ,then the head gardener tried hastening the decomposition by placing the shell in a heap1 soaking with water and turning several times before use4 ,in this way the shell was converted into a decomposing mass before being applied to the ground1 and gave excellent results both as a manure and as a lightener of heavy soils4 ,on the ,continent the small amount of cacao butter which the shell contains is extracted from it by volatile solvents4 ,the shell butter so obtained is very inferior to ordinary cacao butter1 and as usually put on the market1 has an unpleasant taste1 and an odour which reminds one faintly of an old tobacco-pipe4 ,in this unrefined condition it is obviously unsuitable for edible purposes4 ,shell contains about one per cent4 of theobromine 7dimethylxanthine74 ,this is a very valuable chemical substance 7see remarks in chapter on ,food ,value of ,cocoa and ,chocolate71 and the extraction of theobromine from shell is already practised on a large scale1 and promises to be a profitable industry4 ,ordinary commercial samples of shell contain from #a4b to #a4d per cent4 of theobromine4 ,those interested should study the very ingenious process of ,messrs4 ,grousseau and ,vicongne 7,patent ,no4 #abj1agh74 ,many other uses of cacao shell have been made and suggested2 thus it has been used for the production of a good coffee substitute1 and also1 during the shortage of sawdust1 as a packing material1 but its most important use at the present time is as cattle food1 and its most important abuse as an adulterant of cocoa4 ,the value of cacao shell as cattle food has been known for a long time1 and is indicated in the following analysis by ,smetham 7in the ,journal of the ,lancashire ,agricultural ,society1 #aiad74 ,,analysis ,,of ,,cacao ,,shell4 ,water #i4cj ,fat #c4hc ,mineral ,matter #h4bj ,albuminoids #ah4ha ,fibre #ac4he ,digestible ,carbohydrates #df4ja ------ #ajj4jj ------ ,from these figures ,smetham calculates the food units as #ajb1 so that it is evident that cacao shell occupies a good position when compared with other fodders3 ,,food ,,units4 ,linseed cake #acc ,oatmeal #aag ,bran #aji ,english wheat #ajf ,cacao shells #ajb ,maize 7new crop7 #ii ,meadow hay #fh ,rice husks #dc ,wheat straw #da ,mangels #ab ,these analytical results have been supported by practical feeding experiments in ,america and ,germany 7see full account in ,zipperer's book1 ,the ,manufacture of ,chocolate74 ,prof4 ,faelli1 in ,turin1 obtained1 by giving cacao shell to cows1 an increase in both the quantity and quality of the milk4 ,more recent experience seems to indicate that it is unwise to put a very high percentage of cacao shell in a cattle food2 in small quantities in compound feeding cakes1 etc41 as an appetiser it has been used for years with good results4 7,further particulars will be found in ,cacao ,shells as ,fodder1 by ,a4,w4 ,knapp1 ,tropical ,life1 #aiaf1 p4 #aed1 and in ,the ,separation and ,uses of ,cacao ,shell1 ,society of ,chemical ,industry's ,journal1 #aiah1 #bdj74 ,the price of shell has shown great variation4 ,the following figures are for the grade of shell which is almost entirely free from cocoa3 ,,cacao ,,shell4 ,,average ,,price ,,per ,,ton4 ,year #aiab #aiac #aiad #aiae #aiaf #aiag #aiah #aiai ,price #fe_/- #gj_/- #gj_/- #gj_/- #ij_/- #abh_/- #bhd_/- #afa_/- ,,price ,,per ,,food ,,unit4 ,july1 #aiae4 ,jan41 #aiai4 s4 d4 s4 d4 ,english ,oats #c #a-a_/b #c #h ,cotton ,seed ,cake #b #e #c #aa ,linseed ,cake #a #g #c #e ,brewers ,grains 7dried7 #a #f-a_/b #c #h-a_/b ,decorticated ,cotton ,cake #a #f #c #c-a_/b ,cacao ,shell #h-a_/d #a #d-a_/b ,the above table speaks for itself2 the figures are from the ,journal of the ,board of ,agriculture2 ,i have added cacao shell for comparison4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,composition ,,and ,,food ,,value ,,of ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,before the ,spaniards made themselves ,masters of ,mexico1 no other drink was esteem'd but that of cocoa2 none caring for wine1 notwithstanding the soil produces vines everywhere in great abundance of itself4 ,john ,ogilvy's ,america1 #afga4 ,the early writers on chocolate generally became lyrical when they wrote of its value as a food4 ,thus in the ,natural ,history of ,chocolate1 by ,r4 ,brookes 7#agcj71 we read that an ounce of chocolate contains as much nourishment as a pound of beef1 that a woman and a child1 and even a councillor1 lived on chocolate alone for a long period1 and further3 ,before chocolate was known in ,europe1 good old wine was called the milk of old men2 but this title is now applied with greater reason to chocolate1 since its use has become so common1 that it has been perceived that chocolate is1 with respect to them1 what milk is to infants4 ,a more temperate tone is shown in the following1 from ,a ,curious ,treatise of the ,nature and ,quality of ,chocolate1 by ,antonio ,colmenero de ,ledesma1 a ,spaniard1 ,physician and ,chyrurgion of the city of ,ecija1 in ,andaluzia 7printed at the ,green ,dragon1 #afhe73 ,so great is the number of those persons1 who at present do drink of ,chocolate1 that not only in the ,west ,indies1 whence this drink has its original and beginning1 but also in ,spain1 ,italy1 ,flanders1 c41 it is very much used1 and especially in the ,court of the ,king of ,spain2 where the great ladies drink it in a morning before they rise out of their beds1 and lately much used in ,england1 as ,diet and ,phisick with the ,gentry4 ,yet there are several persons that stand in doubt both of the hurt and of the benefit1 which proceeds from the use thereof2 some saying1 that it obstructs and causes opilations1 others and those the most part1 that it fattens1 several assure us that it fortifies the stomach3 some again that it heats and inflames the body4 ,but very many steadfastly affirm1 that tho' they shou'd drink it at all hours1 and that even in the ,dog-days1 they find themselves very well after it4 ,so much for the old valuations2 let us now attempt by modern methods to estimate the food value of cacao and its preparations4 ,food ,value of ,cacao ,beans4 ,in estimating the worth of a food1 it is usual to compare the fuel values4 ,this peculiar method is adopted because the most important requirement in nutrition is that of giving energy for the work of the body1 and a food may be thought of as being burnt up 7oxidised7 in the human machine in the production of heat and energy4 ,the various food constituents serve in varying degrees as fuel to produce energy1 and hence to judge of the food value it is necessary to know the chemical composition4 ,below we give the average composition of cacao beans and the fuel value calculated from these figures3 ,,average ,,composition ,,and ,,fuel ,,value ,,of ,,freshly ,,roasted ,,cacao ,,beans 7,,nibs74 ,composition4 ,energy-giving power ,calories per lb4 ,cacao ,butter #ed4j #b1bhb ,protein 7total nitrogen #b4c7 #aa4i #bba ,cacao ,starch #f4g #dgb ,other ,digestible ,carbohydrates1 etc4 #ah4g ,stimulants ,theobromine #a4j ,caffein #j4d ,mineral ,matter #c4b ,crude ,fibre #b4f ,moisture #a4e ------ ----- #ajj4j #b1ige ------ ----- ,illustration3 ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,,despatch ,,deck ,,at ,,bournville4 ,it will be seen from the above analysis that the cacao bean is rich in fats1 carbohydrates and protein1 and that it contains small quantities of the two stimulants1 theobromine and caffein4 ,in the whole range of animal and vegetable foodstuffs there are only one or two which exceed it in energy-giving power4 ,if expressed in quite another way1 namely1 as food units1 the value of the cacao bean stands equally high1 as is shown by the following figures taken from ,smetham's result published in the ,journal of the ,royal ,agricultural ,society1 #aiad3 ,,food ,,units4 ,turnips #h ,carrots #ab ,potatoes #bf ,rice #ajb ,corn ,flour #ajd ,wheat #ajf ,peas #aac ,oatmeal #aag ,coconut #aei ,cacao ,bean #ahc ,these figures indicate the high food value of the raw material2 we will now proceed to consider the various products which are obtained from it4 ,food ,value of ,cocoa4 ,,average ,,composition ,,and ,,fuel ,,value ,,of ,,untreated ,,cocoa4 ,composition4 ,energy-giving power ,calories per lb4 ,cacao ,butter #bh4j #a1ahc ,protein #ah4c #cdj ,cacao ,starch #aj4b #gah ,other ,digestible ,carbohydrates1 etc4 #bh4d ,stimulants ,theobromine #a4e ,caffein #j4f ,mineral ,matter #e4j ,crude ,fibre #d4j ,moisture #d4j ----- ----- #ajj4j #b1bda ----- ----- 7,soluble ,cocoa1 i4e41 cocoa which has been treated with alkaline salts1 is almost identical in composition1 save that the mineral matter is about #g4e per cent474 ,as cocoa consists of the cacao bean with some of the butter extracted--a process which increases the percentage of the nitrogenous and carbohydrate constituents--it will be evident that the food value of cocoa powder is high1 and that it is a concentrated foodstuff4 ,in this respect it differs from tea and coffee1 which have practically no food value2 each of them1 however1 have special qualities of their own4 ,some of the claims made for these beverages are a little remarkable4 ,the ,embassy of the ,united ,provinces in their address to the ,emperor of ,china 7,leyden1 #afee71 in mentioning the good properties of tea1 wrote3 ,more especially it disintoxicates those that are fuddl'd1 giving them new forces1 and enabling them to go to it again4 ,the ,embassy do not state whether they speak from personal experience1 but their admiration for tea is undoubted4 ,tea1 coffee1 and cocoa are amongst our blessings1 each has its devotees1 each has its peculiar delight3 tea makes for cheerfulness1 coffee makes for wit and wakefulness1 and cocoa relieves the fatigued1 and gives a comfortable feeling of satisfaction and stability4 ,of these three drinks cocoa alone can be considered as a food1 and just as there are people whose digestion is deranged by tea1 and some who sleep not a wink after drinking coffee1 so there are some who find cocoa too feeding1 especially in the summer-time4 ,these sufferers from biliousness will think it curious that cocoa is habitually drunk in many hot climates1 thus1 in ,spanish-speaking countries1 it is the custom for the priest1 after saying mass1 to take a cup of chocolate4 ,the pure cocoa powder is1 as we saw above1 a very rich foodstuff1 but it must always be remembered that in a pint of cocoa only a small quantity1 about half an ounce1 is usually taken4 ,in this connection the following comparison between tea1 coffee and cocoa is not without interest4 ,it is taken from the ,farmer's ,bulletin #bdi1 an official publication of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture3 ,,comparison ,,of ,,energy-,,giving ,,power ,,of ,a ,,pint ,,of ,,tea1 ,,coffee ,,and ,,cocoa4 ,fuel value ,kind of ,beverage ,water ,protein ,fat ,carbohydrates per lb4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,calories ,tea 7#j4e oz4 to #a pt4 water7 #ii4e #j4b #j #j4f #ae ,coffee 7#a oz4 to #a pt4 water7 #ih4i #j4b #j #j4g #af ,cocoa 7#j4e oz4 to #a pt4 water7 #ig4a #j4f #j4i #a4a #fe ,these figures place cocoa1 as a food1 head and shoulders above tea and coffee4 ,the figures are for the beverages made without the addition of milk and sugar1 both of which are almost invariably present4 ,a pint of cocoa made with one-third milk1 half an ounce of cocoa1 and one ounce of sugar would have a fuel value of #cbj calories1 and is therefore equivalent in energy-giving power to a quarter of a pound of beef or four eggs4 ,cocoa is stimulating1 but its action is not so marked as that of tea or coffee1 and hence it is more suitable for young children4 ,dr4 ,hutchison1 an authority on dietetics1 writes3 ,tea and coffee are also harmful to the susceptible nervous system of the child1 but cocoa1 made with plenty of milk1 may be allowed1 though it should be regarded1 like milk1 as a food rather than a beverage properly so called4 ,how to ,make a ,cup of ,cocoa4 ,tea1 coffee and cocoa are all so easy to make that it is remarkable anyone should fail to prepare them perfectly4 ,whilst in ,france everyone can prepare coffee to perfection1 and many fail in making a cup of tea1 in ,england all are adepts in the art of tea-making1 and many do not distinguish themselves in the preparation of coffee4 ,cocoa in either country is not always the delightful beverage it should be4 ,the directions below1 if carefully followed1 will be found to give the character of cocoa its full expression4 ,the principal conditions to observe are to avoid iron saucepans1 to use boiling water or milk1 to froth the cocoa before serving1 and to serve steaming hot in thick cups4 ,illustration ,the amount of cocoa required for two large breakfast cups1 that is one pint1 is as much as will go1 when piled up1 in a dessert spoon4 ,take then a heaped dessert-spoonful of pure cocoa and mix dry with one and a half times its bulk of fine sugar4 ,set this on one side whilst the boiling liquid is prepared4 ,mix one breakfast cup of water with one breakfast cup of milk1 and raise to the boil in an enamelled saucepan4 ,whilst this is proceeding1 warm the jug which is to hold the cocoa1 and transfer the dry sugar-cocoa mixture to it4 ,now pour in the boiling milk and water4 ,transfer back to saucepan and boil for one minute4 ,whisk vigorously for a quarter of a minute4 ,serve without delay4 ,digestibility of ,cocoa4 ,we have noted above the high percentage of nutrients which cocoa contains1 and the research conducted by ,j4 ,forster#a shows that these nutrients are easily assimilated4 ,forster found that the fatty and mineral constituents of cocoa are both completely digested1 and the nitrogenous constituents are digested in the same proportion as in finest bread1 and more completely than in bread of average quality4 ,one very striking fact was revealed by his researches1 namely1 that the consumption of cocoa increases the digestive power for other foods which are taken at the same time1 and that this increase is particularly evident with milk4 ,dr4 ,r4,o4 ,neumann#b 7who fed himself with cocoa preparations for over twelve weeks71 whilst not agreeing with this conclusion1 states that3 ,the consumption of cocoa from the point of view of health leaves nothing to be desired4 ,the taking of large or small quantities of cocoa1 either rich or poor in fat1 with or without other food1 gave rise to no digestive troubles during the #hf days which formed the duration of the experiments4 ,he considers that cocoas containing a high percentage of cacao butter are preferable to those which contain low percentages1 and that a #cj per cent4 butter content meets all requirements4 ,it is worthy of note that #bh to #cj per cent4 is the quantity of butter found in ordinary high-class cocoas4 #a ,hygienische ,rundschau1 #aijj1 p4 #cje4 #b ,die ,bewertung des ,kakaos als ,nahrungs- und ,genussmittel1 #aijf4 ,as experts are liable to disagree1 and it is almost possible to prove anything by a judicious selection from their writings1 it may be well to give an extract from some modern text book as more nearly expressing the standard opinion of the times4 ,in ,second ,stage ,hygiene1 by ,mr4 ,ikin and ,dr4 ,lyster1 a text book written for the ,board of ,education ,syllabus1 we read1 p4 #if3 444 in the better cocoas the greater part of the fat is removed by heat and pressure4 ,in this form cocoa may be looked upon as almost an ideal food1 as it contains proteids1 fats1 and carbohydrates in roughly the right proportions4 ,prepared with milk and sugar it forms a highly nutritious and valuable stimulating beverage4 ,stimulating ,property of ,cocoa4 ,the mild stimulating property which cocoa possesses is due to the presence of the two substances1 theobromine and caffein4 ,the presence of theobromine is peculiar to cocoa1 but caffein is a stimulating principle which also occurs in tea and coffee4 ,whilst in the quantities in which they are present in cocoa 7about #a4e per cent4 of theobromine and #j4f per cent4 of caffein7 they act only as agreeable stimulants1 in the pure condition1 as white crystalline powders1 they are powerful curative agents4 ,caffein is well known as a specific for nervous headaches1 and as a heart stimulant and diuretic4 ,theobromine is similar in action1 but has the advantage for certain cases1 that it has much less effect on the central nervous system1 and for this reason it is a very valuable medicine for sufferers from heart dropsy1 and as a tonic for senile heart4 ,that its medicinal properties are appreciated is shown by its price3 during #aiah the retail price was about #h shillings an ounce1 from which we can calculate that every pound of cocoa contained nearly two shillingsworth of theobromine4 ,soluble ,cocoa4 ,whilst ,forster states that treated cocoa is the most digestible1 experts are not in agreement as to which is the more valuable foodstuff1 the pure untouched cocoa1 or that which is treated during its manufacture with alkaline salts4 ,the cocoa so treated is generally described as soluble1 although its only claim to this name is that the mineral salts in the cocoa are rendered more soluble by the treatment4 ,it is also sometimes incorrectly described as containing alkali1 but actually no alkali is present in the cocoa either in a free state or as carbonate2 the potassium exists in the form of phosphates or combinations of organic acids1 that is to say1 in the ideal form in which these bodies occur in foods of animal and vegetable origin 7,fritsch1 ,fabrication du ,chocolat1 p4 #baf74 ,illustration3 ,,boxing ,,chocolates4 ,food ,value of ,chocolate4 ,i ate a little chocolate from my supply1 well knowing the miraculous sustaining powers of the simple little block 7from ,mr4 ,isaacs1 by ,f4 ,marion ,crawford74 ,whilst the food value of cocoa powder is very high the drink prepared from it can only be regarded as an accessory food1 because it is usual to take the powder in small quantities--just as with beef-tea it is usual to take only a small portion of an ox in a tea-cup--but chocolate is often eaten in considerable quantities at a time1 and must therefore be regarded as an important foodstuff1 and not considered1 as it frequently is considered1 simply as a luxury4 ,the eating of cacao mixed with sugar dates from very early days1 but it is only in recent times that it has become the principal sweetmeat4 ,what would a sweetshop be to-day without chocolate1 that summit of the confectioner's art1 when the rich brown of chocolate is the predominant note in every confectioner's window8 ,what would the lovers in ,england do without chocolates1 which enable them to indulge their delight in giving that which is sure to be well received8 ,as a luxury it is universally appreciated1 and because of this appreciation its value as a food is sometimes overlooked4 ,during the war chocolate was valued as a compact foodstuff1 which is easily preserved4 ,dr4 ,gastineau ,earle1 lecturing for the ,institute of ,hygiene in #aiae on ,food ,factor in ,war1 said3 ,chocolate is a most valuable concentrated food1 especially when other foods are not available2 it is the chief constituent of the emergency ration4 ,its importance as a concentrated foodstuff was appreciated in the ,united ,states1 for every comfort kit made up for the ,american soldiers fighting in the war contained a cake of sweet chocolate4 ,there are a number of records of people whose lives have been preserved by means of chocolate4 ,one of the most recent was the case of ,commander ,stewart1 who was torpedoed in ,h4,m4,s4 ,cornwallis in the ,mediterranean in #aiag4 ,he happened to have in his cabin one of the boxes of chocolate presented to the ,army and ,navy in #aiae by the colonies of ,trinidad1 ,grenada1 and ,st4 ,lucia1 who gave the cacao and paid ,english manufacturers to make it into chocolate4 ,he had been treasuring the box as a souvenir1 but being the only article of food available1 he filled his pockets with the chocolate1 which sustained him through many trying hours4#c #c ,see ,west ,india ,committee ,journal1 p4 #ee1 #aiag4 ,we have already seen the high food value of the cacao bean3 what of the sugar which chocolate contains8 ,sugar is consumed in large quantities in ,england1 the consumption per head amounting to #hj-ij lbs4 per year4 ,it is well known as a giver of heat and energy1 and ,sir ,ernest ,shackleton reports that it proved a great life preserver and sustainer in ,arctic regions4 ,our practical acquaintance with sugar commences at birth--milk containing about #e per cent4 of milk sugar--and when one considers the amazing activity of young children one understands their continuous demand for sugar4 ,dr4 ,hutchison1 in his well-known ,food and the ,principles of ,dietetics1 says3 ,the craving for sweets which children show is1 no doubt1 the natural expression of a physiological need1 but they should be taken with1 and not between1 meals4 ,chocolate is one of the most wholesome and nutritious forms of such sweets4 ,both the constituents of chocolate being nourishing1 it follows that chocolate itself has a high food value4 ,this is proved by the figures given below4 ,as with cocoa1 we have first to know the composition before we can calculate the food value4 ,the relative proportions of nib1 butter and sugar1 vary considerably in ordinary chocolate1 so that it is difficult to give an average composition3 there are sticks of eating chocolate which contain as little as #bd per cent4 of cacao butter1 whilst chocolate used for covering contains about #cf per cent4 of butter4 ,as modern high-class eating chocolate contains about #ca per cent4 of butter1 we will take this for purposes of calculation3 ,,average ,,composition ,,and ,,fuel ,,value ,,of ,,english ,,eating ,,chocolate4 ,composition ,energy-giving power ,calories per lb4 ,cacao ,butter #ca4d #a1cbg ,protein 7total nitrogen #j4gh7 #d4a #gf ,cacao ,starch #b4c #afb ,other ,digestible ,carbohydrates1 etc4 #f4d ,stimulants ,theobromine #j4c ,caffein #j4a ,mineral ,matter #a4b ,crude ,fibre #j4i ,moisture #a4j ,sugar #eb4c #igc ----- ----- #ajj4j #b1ech ,in ,snyder's ,human ,foods 7#aiaf7 the official analyses of #afc common foods are given4 ,they include practically everything that human beings eat1 and only three are greater than chocolate in energy-giving power4 ,the result 7#b1ech calories per lb47 which we obtain by calculation is lower than the figure 7#b1gfh calories per lb47 for chocolate given by ,sherman in his book on ,food and ,nutrition 7#aiah74 ,probably his figure is for unsweetened chocolate4 ,the table below shows the energy-giving value of cocoa and chocolate compared with well-known foodstuffs4 ,the figures 7save for eating chocolate7 are taken from ,sherman's book1 and are calculated from the analyses given in ,bulletin #bh of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture3 ,,fuel ,,value ,,of ,,foodstuffs4 ,foodstuff as ,calories ,purchased4 per lb4 ,cabbage #aba ,cod ,fish #bji ,apples #bad ,potatoes #cjb ,milk #cad ,eggs #eid ,beef ,steak #ifj ,bread 7average white7 #a1ahj ,oatmeal #a1haa ,sugar #a1hae ,cocoa #b1beh ,eating ,chocolate #b1ech ,illustration3 ,,packing ,,chocolates ,,at ,,bournville4 ,food ,value of ,milk ,chocolate4 ,the value of milk as a food is so generally recognised as to need no commendation here4 ,when milk is evaporated to a dry solid1 about #hg4e per cent4 of water is driven off1 so that the dry milk left has about eight times the food value of the original milk4 ,milk chocolate of good quality contains from #ae to #be per cent4 of milk solids4 ,milk chocolate varies greatly in composition1 but for the purpose of calculating the food value1 we may assume that about a quarter of a high-class milk chocolate consists of solid milk1 and this is combined with about #dj per cent4 of cane sugar and #ce per cent4 of cacao butter and cacao mass4 ,,analysis ,,and ,,fuel ,,value ,,of ,,milk ,,chocolate4 ,energy-giving power4 ,calories per lb4 ,milk ,fat and ,cacao ,butter #ce4j #a1dhj ,milk and ,cocoa ,proteins #h4j #adi ,cacao ,starch and ,digestible ,carbohydrates #c4j #ef ,stimulants 7,theobromine and ,caffein7 #j4b ,mineral ,matter #b4j ,crude ,fibre #j4c ,moisture #a4e ,milk ,sugar and ,cane ,sugar #ej4j #icj ----- ----- #ajj4j #b1fae ----- ----- ,it will be noted that the food value of milk chocolate is even greater than that of plain chocolate4 ,it is highly probable that milk chocolate is the most nutritious of all sweetmeats4 ,it is not generally recognised that when we purchase one pound of high-class milk chocolate we obtain three-quarters of a pound of chocolate and two pounds of milk6 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,adulteration ,,and ,,the ,,need ,,for ,,definitions ,those that mix maize in the ,chocolate do very ill1 for they beget bilious and melancholy humours4 ,a ,curious ,treatise on the ,nature and ,quality of ,chocolate1 ,antonio ,colmenero de ,ledesma1 #afhe4 ,,cocoa4 ,cocoa might conveniently be defined as consisting exclusively of shelled1 roasted1 finely-ground cacao beans1 partially de-fatted1 with or without a minute quantity of flavouring material4 ,the gross adulteration of cocoa is now a thing of the past1 and most of the cocoa sold conforms with this definition4 ,statements1 however1 get copied from book to book1 and hence we continue to read that cocoa usually contains arrowroot or other starch4 ,in the old days this was frequently so1 but now1 owing to many legal actions by ,public ,health ,authorities1 this abuse has been stamped out4 ,nowadays if a ,public ,analyst finds flour or arrowroot in a sample bought as cocoa1 he describes it as adulterated1 and the seller is prosecuted and fined4 ,hence1 save for the presence of cacao shell1 the cocoa of the present day is a pure article consisting simply of roasted1 finely-ground cacao beans partially de-fatted4 ,the principal factors affecting the quality of the finished cocoa are the difference in the kind of cacao bean used1 the amount of cacao butter extracted1 the care in preparation1 and the amount of cacao shell left in4 ,the presence of more than a small percentage of shell in cocoa is a disadvantage both on the ground of taste and of food value4 ,this has been recognised from the earliest times 7see quotations on p4 #abh74 ,in the ,cocoa ,powder ,order of #aiah1 the amount of shell which a cocoa powder might contain was defined--grade ,a not to contain more than two per cent4 of shell1 and grade ,b not more than five per cent4 of shell4 ,the manufacturers of high-class cocoa welcomed these standards1 but unfortunately the known analytical methods are not delicate enough to estimate accurately such small quantities1 so that any external check is difficult1 and the purchaser has to trust to the honesty of the manufacturer4 ,hence it is wise to purchase cocoa only from makers of good repute4 ,,chocolate4 ,we have so far no legal definition of chocolate in ,england4 ,as ,mr4 ,n4,p4 ,booth pointed out at the ,seventh ,international ,congress of ,applied ,chemistry3 ,at the present time a mixture of cocoa with sugar and starch cannot be sold as pure cocoa1 but only as 'chocolate powder1' and with a definite declaration that the article is a mixture of cocoa and other ingredients4 ,prosecutions are constantly occurring where mixtures of foreign starch and sugar with cocoa have been sold as 'cocoa1' and it seems1 therefore1 a proper step to take to require that a similar declaration shall be made in the case of 'chocolate' which contains other constituents than the products of cocoa nib and sugar4 ,we cannot do better than quote in full the definitions suggested in ,mr4 ,booth's paper4 ,the author refers to the absence of any legal standard for chocolate in ,england1 although in some of the ,european countries standards are in force1 and points out1 as a result of this1 that articles of which the sale would be prohibited in some other countries1 are permitted to come without restriction on to the ,english market4 ,illustration3 ,,wharf ,,at ,,factory ,,at ,,knighton1 ,,at ,,which ,,milk ,,is ,,evaporated ,,for ,,milk ,,chocolate ,,manufacture4 7,messrs4 ,cadbury ,bros41 ,ltd47 ,he suggests that the following definitions for chocolate goods are reasonable1 and could be conformed to by makers of the genuine article4 ,these standards are not more stringent than those already enforced in some of the ,colonies and ,european countries3 7#a7 ,unsweetened chocolate or cacao mass must be prepared exclusively from roasted1 shelled1 finely-ground cacao beans1 with or without the addition of a small quantity of flavouring matter1 and should not contain less than #de per cent4 of cacao butter4 7#b7 ,sweetened chocolate or chocolate4--,a preparation consisting exclusively of the products of roasted1 shelled1 finely-ground cacao beans1 and not more than #fe per cent4 of sugar1 with or without a small quantity of harmless flavouring matter4 7#c7 ,granulated1 or ,ground ,chocolate for ,drinking purposes4--,the same definition as for sweetened chocolate should apply here1 except that the proportion of sugar may be raised to not more than #ge per cent4 7#d7 ,chocolate-covered ,goods4--,various forms of confectionery covered with chocolate1 the composition of the latter agreeing with the definition of sweetened chocolate4 7#e7 ,milk ,chocolate4--,a preparation composed exclusively of roasted1 shelled cacao beans1 sugar1 and not less than #ae per cent4 of the dry solids of full-cream milk1 with or without a small quantity of harmless flavouring matter4 ,mr4 ,booth further states that starch other than that naturally present in the cacao bean1 and cacao shell in powder form1 should be absolutely excluded from any article which is to be sold under the name of chocolate4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,consumption ,,of ,,cacao ,the ,kernels that come to us from the ,coast of ,caraqua1 are more oily1 and less bitter1 than those that come from the ,french ,islands1 and in ,france and ,spain they prefer them to these latter4 ,but in ,germany and in the ,north 7,fides sit penes autorem7 they have a quite opposite ,taste4 ,several ,people mix that of ,caraqua with that of the ,islands1 half in half1 and pretend by this ,mixture to make the ,chocolate better4 ,i believe in the bottom1 the difference of ,chocolates is not considerable1 since they are only obliged to increase or diminish the ,proportion of ,sugar1 according as the ,bitterness of the ,kernels require it4 ,the ,natural ,history of ,chocolate1 ,r4 ,brookes1 #agcj4 ,the war has caused such a disturbance that the statistics for the years of the war are difficult to obtain4 ,for many years the ,german publication1 the ,gordian1 was the most reliable source of cacao statistics1 and so far we have nothing in ,england sufficiently comprehensive to replace it1 although useful figures can be obtained from the ,board of ,trade returns of imports into ,great ,britain1 from ,mr4 ,theo4 ,vasmer's reports which appear from time to time in ,the ,confectioners' ,union and elsewhere1 from ,mr4 ,hamel ,smith's collated material in ,tropical ,life1 and from the reports of important brokers like ,messrs4 ,woodhouse4 ,in #aiai the ,bulletin of the ,imperial ,institute gave a very complete resume of cacao production as far as the ,british ,empire is concerned4 ,great ,britain4 ,since #ahcj the consumption of cacao in the ,british ,isles has shown a great and continuous increase1 and there is every reason to believe that the consumption will easily keep pace with the rapidly growing production4 ,one effect of the war has been to increase the consumption of cocoa and chocolate4 ,many thousands of men who took no interest in sweets learned from the use of their emergency ration that chocolate was a very convenient and concentrated foodstuff4 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,cleared ,,for ,,home ,,consumption4 ,year4 ,english ,tons4 #ahcj #dej #ahdj #ijj #ahej #a1djj #ahfj #a1dej #ahgj #c1ajj #ahhj #d1gjj #ahij #i1jjj #aijj #af1ijj #aiaj #bd1eej ,,cacao ,,beans ,,imported ,,into ,,united ,,kingdom4 ,total ,retained in ,home ,year4 ,imported the country ,consumption tons4 tons4 tons4 #aiab #cc1fjj #bg1dej #bd1fjj #aiac #ce1jjj #bh1bjj #bc1bjj #aiad #da1gej #bi1fjj #bd1ijj #aiae #ha1hjj #ed1djj #dj1cjj #aiaf #hh1hjj #fd1gej #bi1cjj #aiag #eg1ijj #ec1ajj #da1cjj ,the above figures are compiled from the ,bulletin of the ,imperial ,institute 7,no4 #a1 #aiai74 ,the total imports for #aiah were #db1cij tons4 ,this sudden and marked drop in the amount imported was due to shortage of shipping4 ,there were1 however1 large quantities of cacao in stock1 and the amount consumed showed a marked advance on previous years1 being #fa1beb tons4 ,the ,board of ,trade ,returns for #aiai are as follow3 ,,cacao ,,beans ,,imported ,,into ,,united ,,kingdom4 ,from ,british ,west ,africa #gb1hhf tons ,british ,west ,indies #ac1bai tons ,ecuador #i1aec tons ,brazil #c1ffe tons ,ceylon #ijc tons ,other ,countries #ac1hbj tons ------------ ,total #aac1fdf tons ------------ ,home ,consumption #fd1fac tons ,it will be noted that the import of ,british cacao is over #ge per cent4 of the total4 ,before the war about half the cacao imported into the ,united ,kingdom was grown in ,british possessions4 ,during the war more and more ,british cacao was imported1 and now that a preferential duty of seven shillings per hundredweight has been given to ,british ,colonial growths we shall probably see a still higher percentage of ,british cacao consumed in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,,value ,,of ,,cacao ,,beans ,,imported ,,into ,,the ,,united ,,kingdom 7,,to ,,nearest ,l#a1jjj74 ,total value of ,cacao ,from ,british ,possessions4 ,year4 ,beans ,imported4 ,value4 ,per cent4 #aiac ,l#b1aii1jjj ,l#a1aeh1jjj #eb4g #aiad ,l#b1dci1jjj ,l#a1bjd1jjj #di4d #aiae ,l#e1gdg1jjj ,l#c1edf1jjj #fa4g #aiaf ,l#f1dih1jjj ,l#d1dag1jjj #fh4j #aiag ,l#c1dih1jjj ,l#c1jaj1jjj #hf4j #aiah ,l#c1jdj1jjj ,l#b1edi1jjj #hc4h #aiai ,l#i1bjg1jjj ,l#f1fci1jjj #gb4a ,that the consumption of cacao is expected to grow greater yet in the immediate future is reflected in the prices of raw cacao1 which1 as soon as they were no longer fixed by the ,government1 rose rapidly1 thus ,accra cacao rose from #fes4 per hundredweight to over #ijs4 per hundredweight in a few weeks1 and now 7,january1 #aibj7 stands at #ajds4 7,see diagram p4 #aac74 ,world ,consumption4 ,the world's consumption of cacao is steadily rising4 ,before the war the ,united ,states1 ,germany1 ,holland1 ,great ,britain1 ,france1 and ,switzerland were the principal consumers4 ,whilst we have increased our consumption1 so that ,great ,britain now occupies second place1 the ,united ,states has outstripped all the other countries1 having doubled its consumption in a few years1 and is now taking almost as much as all the rest of the world put together4 ,it is thought that since ,america has gone dry this remarkably large consumption is likely to be maintained4 ,,world',s ,,consumption ,,of ,,cacao ,,beans4 7to the nearest thousand tons7 #a ton #ajjj kilograms4 ,pre-war ,war ,period ,post-war ,average of #aiac4 #aiad1 #e1 #f1 #g4 #aiah4 #aiai4 ,country4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,tons4 ,u4,s4,a4 #fh1jjj #ajc1jjj #ade1jjj #ade1jjj ,germany #ea1jjj #bh1jjj 8 #ac1jjj ,holland #cj1jjj #be1jjj #b1jjj #ci1jjj ,great ,britain #bh1jjj #da1jjj #fb1jjj #ff1jjj ,france #bh1jjj #ce1jjj #ci1jjj #df1jjj ,switzerland #aj1jjj #ad1jjj #ah1jjj #ba1jjj ,austria #g1jjj #b1jjj 8 #b1jjj ,belgium #f1jjj #a1jjj #a1jjj #h1jjj ,spain #f1jjj #g1jjj #f1jjj #h1jjj ,russia #e1jjj #d1jjj 8 8 ,canada #c1jjj #d1jjj #i1jjj 8 ,italy #b1jjj #e1jjj #f1jjj #f1jjj ,denmark #b1jjj #b1jjj #b1jjj 8 ,sweden #a1jjj #b1jjj #b1jjj 8 ,norway #a1jjj #b1jjj #b1jjj 8 ,other countries 7estimated7 #e1jjj #h1jjj #aa1jjj #bf1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---- ,total #beb1jjj #bhc1jjj #cje1jjj #chj1jjj ,the above figures are compiled chiefly from ,mr4 ,theo4 ,vasmer's reports4 ,the ,gordian estimates that the world's consumption in #aiah was #cad1hhb tons4 ,in several of our larger colonies and in at least one ,european country there is obviously ample room for increase in the consumption4 ,when one considers the great population of ,russia1 four to five thousand tons per annum is a very small amount to consume4 ,it is pleasant to think of cocoa being drunk in the icebound ,north of ,russia--it brings to mind so picturesque a contrast3 cacao1 grown amongst the richly-coloured flora of the tropics1 consumed in a land that is white with cold4 ,when ,russia has reached a more stable condition we shall doubtless see a rapid expansion in the cacao consumption4 ,illustration3 ,,cacao ,,pods1 ,,leaves ,,and ,,flowers4 ,reproduced by permission of ,messrs4 ,fry ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,bristol4 ,,bibliography ,,books ,,on ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate ,,arranged ,,in ,,order ,,of ,,date ,,of ,,publication4 #afjj-agjj ,,rauch1 ,joan4 ,franc4 ,,disputatio ,,medico ,,dioetetica ,,de ,,aere ,,et ,,esculentis1 ,,de ,,necnon ,,potu4 ,vienna #afbd ,condemns cocoa as a violent inflamer of the passions4 ,,colmenero1 ,antonio de ,ledesma4 ,treatise on ,chocolate in ,spanish entitled3 ,,curioso ,,tratado ,,de ,,la ,,naturaleza ,y ,,calidad ,,del ,,chocolate1 ,,dividido ,,en ,,quatro ,,puntos4 ,madrid #afca ,translated into ,english by ,don ,diego de ,vades-forte #afdj ,translated into ,french by ,rene ,moreau #afdc ,translated into ,latin by ,j4,g4 ,volckamer #afdd ,translated into ,english by ,j4 ,wadsworth #afeb ,translated into ,italian by ,a4 ,vitrioli #affg ,moreau's translation edited by ,sylvestre ,dufour #afga and #afhe and translated into ,english by ,j4 ,chamberlaine #afhe for titles1 etc41 see under translators ,,de ,,vades-,,forte1 ,don ,diego4 ,the magnificent pseudonym of ,j4 ,wadsworth4 7,translated by47 ,a ,,curious ,,treatise ,,of ,,the ,,nature ,,and ,,quality ,,of ,,chocolate by ,antonio de ,ledesma ,colmenero4 ,london #afdj ,,moreau1 ,rene4 7,translated by47 ,,du ,,chocolat ,,discours ,,curieux by ,antonio de ,ledesma ,colmenero4 pp4 #ei4 ,paris #afdc ,,volckamer1 ,j4,g4 ,translated by4 ,,chocolata ,,inda1 ,,opusculum ,,de ,,qualitate ,,et ,,natura ,,chocolatae by ,antonio de ,ledesma ,colmenero4 pp4 #gc4 ,norimbergae #afdd 7,in same volume with this is ,opobalsamum ,orientalae and ,pisonis ,observationes ,medicae4 ,total pp4 #bbd47 ,,wadsworth1 ,j4 7,translated by47 ,,chocolate3 ,,or ,,an ,,indian ,,drinke ,,etc4 by ,antonio ,ledesma ,colmenero4 ,london #afeb ,,stubbe7,s71 ,henry4 ,,the ,,indian ,,nectar ,,or ,a ,,discourse ,,concerning ,,chocolata4 pp4 #ahd4 ,london #affb ,,brancatius1 ,franciscus ,maria4 ,,de ,,chocalatis ,,potu ,,diatribe4 pp4 #cf4 ,rome #affd ,,paulli1 ,simon4 ,,commentarius ,,de ,,abusu ,,tabaci ,,thee4 ,argentorati 7see #agdf7 #affe ,,vitrioli1 ,a4 7,translated by47 ,,della ,,cioccolata ,,discorso4 ,from ,moreau's translation of ,colmenero's book4 ,rome #affg ,,sebastus ,,melissenus1 ,f4 ,nicephorus4 ,,de ,,chocolatis ,,potione ,,resolutio ,,moralis4 pp4 #cf4 ,naples #afga ,,sylvestre ,,dufour1 ,p4 ,edited by4 ,,de ,l',,usage ,,du ,,caphe1 ,,du ,,the1 ,,et ,,du ,,chocolat4 pp4 #ahh4 ,lyon #afga ,the part on chocolate1 pp4 #ei1 is a revision of ,moreau's translation of ,colmenero's book1 plus ,b4 ,marradon's dialogue on chocolate4 ,translated into ,english by ,j4 ,chamberlaine 7which see74 #afhe ,,hughes1 ,william4 ,,the ,,american ,,physitian 444 ,,whereunto ,,is ,,added ,a ,,discourse ,,on ,,the ,,cacao-,,nut-,,tree1 ,,and ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,its ,,fruit1 ,,with ,,all ,,the ,,ways ,,of ,,making ,,chocolate4 ,london #afgb ,,author ,,not ,,given4 ,,description ,,and ,,management ,,of ,,the ,,cocoa ,,tree4 ,phil4 ,trans4 ,abr4 ,,ii4 pp4 #ei4 #afgc ,,bontekoe1 ,willem4 ,sundry short treatises in ,dutch on ,cocoa and ,chocolate4 about #afgi ,,author ,,not ,,given4 ,,the ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,coffee1 ,,tea1 ,,chocolate1 ,,tobacco ,,and ,,also ,,the ,,way ,,of ,,making ,,mum4 pp4 #ci4 ,printed for ,christopher ,wilkinson4 ,london #afhb ,condemns chocolate on account of its containing such a corrosive salt as sugar4 ,mum is a peculiar kind of beer made from wheat malt4 ,,mundy1 ,henry4 ,,opera ,,omnia ,,medico-,,physica ,,de ,,aere ,,vitali1 ,,esculentis ,,et ,,potulentis ,,cum ,,appendice ,,de ,,parergis ,,in ,,victu ,,et ,,chocolatu1 ,,thea1 ,,caffea1 ,,tobacco4 ,oxford #afhj4 ,leyden #afhe ,,sylvestre ,,dufour1 ,p4 ,,traitez ,,nouveaux ,,et ,,curieux ,,du ,,cafe1 ,,du ,,the ,,et ,,du ,,chocolat4 ,the treatise on chocolate is compiled from the ,spanish of ,colmenero and ,b4 ,marradon4 pp4 #djc4 a la ,haye #afhe 7,with additions by ,st4 ,disdier7 pp4 #djd4 a la ,haye #afic ,published by ,deville4 pp4 #djd4 ,lyon #afhh ,the above in ,latin 7by ,j4 ,spon71 ,,tractatus ,,novi ,,de ,,potu ,,caphe1 ,,de ,,chiensium1 ,,the1 ,,et ,,de ,,chocolata4 pp4 #bjb4 ,paris #afhe ,a further ,latin translation of the above1 ,,novi ,,tractatus ,,de ,,potu ,,caphe1 ,,de ,,chiensium1 ,,the1 ,,et ,,de ,,chocolata4 pp4 #ahh4 ,geneva #afii ,,chamberlaine1 ,j4 7,translated by47 ,,the ,,manner ,,of ,,making ,,coffee1 ,,tea ,,and ,,chocolate4 pp4 #aaf4 ,london #afhe ,a translation of ,sylvestre ,dufour's compilation1 the part on ,chocolate entitled ,a ,curious ,treatise of the ,nature and ,quality of ,chocolate1 being a translation of ,colmenero's book4 ,,blegny1 ,nicholas de4 ,,le ,,bon ,,usage ,,de ,,the1 ,,du ,,caffe1 ,,et ,,du ,,chocolat ,,pour ,,la ,,preservation ,,et ,,pour ,,la ,,guerison ,,des ,,malades4 pp4 #ceh4 ,paris #afhg pp4 #ceh4 ,lyon #afhg ,,mappus1 ,marcus4 ,,dissertationes ,,medicae ,,tres ,,de ,,receptis ,,hodie ,,etiam ,,in ,,europa1 ,,potus ,,calidi ,,generibus ,,thee1 ,,cafe1 ,,chocolata4 pp4 #ff4 ,argentorati #afie #agja-ahjj ,,duncan1 ,dr4 ,,wholesome ,,advice ,,against ,,the ,,abuse ,,of ,,hot ,,liquors1 ,,particularly ,,of ,,coffee1 ,,tea1 ,,chocolate1 ,,etc4 pp4 #bhj4 ,london #agjf ,,author ,,not ,,given by ,de ,chelus4 ,,histoire ,,naturelle ,,du ,,cacao ,,et ,,du ,,sucre4 pp4 #bbg4 ,paris #agai pp4 #bbh4 ,amsterdam #agbj pp4 #djd4 ,amsterdam #agbj pp4 #ie4 ,london #agbd ,,brookes1 ,r4 the above by ,de ,chelus4 7,translated by47 ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,chocolate4 pp4 #ie4 ,printed for ,j4 ,roberts1 ,london #agbd pp4 #ie4 ,printed for ,browne1 ,london #agbe pp4 #ie4 ,printed for ,j4 ,roberts1 ,london #agcj ,,act ,,of ,,parliament1 ,george ,,ii1 #agbc4 ,relating to ,,laying ,,inland ,,duties ,,on ,,coffee1 ,,tea ,,and ,,chocolate4 ,london #agbd ,,bruckman1 ,f4,e4 ,,relatio ,,de ,,cacao4 ,brunswick #agch ,,baron1 ,h4,t4 ,,an ,,senibus ,,chocolatae ,,putus8 ,paris #agci ,,pauli1 ,s4 ,,paulli4 ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,tobacco1 ,,tea1 ,,coffee ,,and ,,chocolate4 ,translated by ,dr4 ,james4 pp4 #aga4 ,london 7see #affe7 #agdf ,n4,n4 pseudonym of ,d4 ,,congina4 ,,memorie ,,storiche ,,sopra ,l',,uso ,,della ,,cioccolata ,,in ,,tempo ,,di ,,digiuno ,,etc4 ,historical memoir on the use of chocolate upon fast days4 pp4 #aif4 ,venice #agdh ,,stayley1 ,g4 ,,the ,,chocolate ,,makers ,,or ,,mimickry ,,exposed4 ,an ,interlude4 ,dublin4 #agei ,,author ,,not ,,given4 ,,observations ,,sur ,,le ,,cacao ,,et ,,sur ,,le ,,chocolat4 pp4 #add4 ,paris #aggb ,,smith1 ,hugh4 ,,an ,,essay ,,on ,,foreign ,,teas1 ,,with ,,observations ,,on ,,mineral ,,waters1 ,,coffee1 ,,chocolate1 ,,etc4 ,london #agid #ahja-aijj ,,parmentier ,,on ,,the ,,composition ,,and ,,use ,,of ,,chocolate4 ,nicholson's ,journal4 ,london #ahjc ,,gallais1 ,a4 ,,monographie ,,du ,,cacao4 pp4 #baf4 ,paris #ahbg ,,mitscherlich1 ,a4 ,,der ,,kakao ,,und ,,die ,,schokolade4 ,berlin #ahei ,,gosselin1 ,a4 ,,manuel ,,des ,,chocolatiers4 pp4 #ec4 ,paris #ahfj ,,mangin1 ,a4 ,,le ,,cacao ,,et ,,la ,,chocolat4 ,paris #ahfb ,,hewett1 ,c4 7of ,messrs4 ,dunn and ,hewett47 ,,chocolate ,,and ,,cocoa1 ,,growth ,,and ,,preparation4 pp4 #hh4 ,london #ahfb ,,compagnie ,,coloniale4 ,,chocolate3 ,,its ,,character ,,and ,,history4 pp4 #cg4 ,paris #ahfh ,,holm1 ,j4 ,,cocoa ,,and ,,its ,,manufacture4 ,rivers1 ,london4 ,,sinclair1 ,w4,j4 ,,beverages1 ,,tea1 ,,cocoa1 ,,etc4 7,health ,lectures1 ,vol4 #d74 ,manchester #ahha ,,saldau1 ,e4 ,,die ,,chocolade-,,fabrikation4 pp4 #bcb4 ,vienna 7see #aijg7 #ahha ,,morris1 ,d4 ,,cacao3 ,,how ,,to ,,grow ,,it4 pp4 #de4 ,jamaica 7see #ahhg7 #ahhb ,,trinidad ,agricultural ,association4 ,,curing ,,of ,,cocoa ,,discussed4 pp4 #f4 #ahhe ,,bartelink1 ,e4,j4 ,,handleiding ,,voor ,,kakao-,,planters4 pp4 #fh4 ,amsterdam #ahhe ,english ,translation1 ,,the ,,cacao ,,planters' ,,manual4 pp4 #eg4 ,london #ahhe ,,baker1 ,w41 ,co4 ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate4 pp4 #aeb4 ,dorchester1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 7see #ahia and #ahii7 #ahhf ,,morris1 ,d4 ,,cacao3 ,,how ,,to ,,grow ,,it4 pp4 #db4 ,jamaica 7see #ahhb7 #ahhf ,,zipperer1 ,p4 ,,die ,,chocolade ,,fabrikation4 pp4 #aha4 ,berlin 7see #aijb and #aiac7 #ahhi ,,bannister1 ,r4 ,,cantor ,,lectures ,,on ,,sugar1 ,,coffee1 ,,tea ,,and ,,cocoa4 pp4 #gg4 ,london #ahij ,,baker1 ,w41 ,co4 ,,the ,,chocolate ,,plant ,,and ,,its ,,products4 pp4 #dj4 ,dorchester1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 7see #ahhf and #ahii7 #ahia ,,hart1 ,j4,h4 ,,cacao4 pp4 #gg4 ,port of ,spain1 ,trinidad 7see #aijj and #aiaa7 #ahib ,,hatton1 ,j4 ,,cocoa4 pp4 #bb4 ,london #ahib ,,historicus4 ,,cocoa3 ,,all ,,about ,,it4 pp4 #aad4 ,london 7see #ahif7 #ahib ,,gordian1 ,a4 ,,die ,,deutsche ,,schokoladen ,,und ,,zuckerwaren ,,industrie4 ,hartleben's ,verlag4 ,hamburg #ahie ,,roque1 ,l4 ,de ,belfort de la4 ,,guide ,,pratique ,,de ,,la ,,fabrication ,,du ,,chocolat4 ,paris #ahie ,,historicus4 ,,cocoa3 ,,all ,,about ,,it4 pp4 #ii4 ,london 7see #ahib7 #ahif ,,villon4 ,,manuel ,,du ,,confiseur ,,et ,,du ,,chocolat4 ,paris #ahif ,,goldos1 ,l4 ,,mannual ,,de ,,fabricacion ,,industrial ,,de ,,chocolate4 pp4 #bfa4 ,madrid #ahig ,,olivieri1 ,f4,e4 ,,cacao ,,planting ,,and ,,its ,,cultivation4 pp4 #cd4 ,port of ,spain1 ,trinidad 7see #aijc7 #ahig ,,epps1 ,james4 ,,the ,,cacao ,,plant4 pp4 #aa4 7,transactions ,croydon ,microscopical and ,natural ,history ,club7 #ahih ,,baker1 ,w41 ,co4 ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate4 pp4 #ga4 ,dorchester1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 7see #ahhf and #ahia7 #ahii ,,hart1 ,j4,h4 ,,cacao4 pp4 #aag4 ,port of ,spain1 ,trinidad 7see #ahib and #aiaa7 #aijj ,,jumelle1 ,h4 ,,le ,,cacoyer3 ,,sa ,,culture ,,et ,,son ,,exploitation4 pp4 #baa4 ,paris #aijj ,,menier4 ,,historique ,,des ,,etablissements ,,menier4 7,printed for ,exposition ,universelle47 pp4 #dd4 ,paris #aijj ,,modern ,,works1 #aija-aibj4 7a7 ,cacao ,cultivation4 ,,smith1 ,h4 ,hamel4 ,,some ,,notes ,,on ,,cocoa ,,planting ,,in ,,the ,,west ,,indies4 pp4 #gj #aija ,,wildeman1 ,e4 de4 ,,les ,,plantes ,,tropicales ,,de ,,grande ,,culture--,,cafe1 ,,cacao1 ,,etc4 pp4 #cjd4 ,bruxelles #aijb ,,preuss1 ,paul4 ,,expedition ,,nach ,,central ,,und ,s,ue,d-,,amerika4 ,berlin4 ,french translation of part of the above1 ,,le ,,cacao1 ,,culture ,,et ,,preparation 7from ,bulletin ,societe d',etudes ,coloniales74 pp4 #bdi4 #aijb ,,eitling1 ,c4 ,,der ,,kakao1 ,,seine ,,kultur ,,und ,,bereitung4 pp4 #ci4 #aijc ,,olivieri1 ,f4,e4 ,,treatise ,,on ,,cacao4 pp4 #aja4 ,trinidad 7see #ahig7 #aijc ,,kindt1 ,l4 ,,die ,,kultur ,,des ,,kakaobaumes ,,und ,,seine ,s,c,h,ae,d,l,i,n,g,e4 pp4 #aeg4 ,hamburg #aijd ,,steuart1 ,m4,e4 ,,everyday ,,life ,,on ,a ,,ceylon ,,cocoa ,,estate4 pp4 #bef4 ,london #aije ,,chalot1 ,c4 and ,,luc1 ,m4 ,,le ,,cacoyer ,,au ,,congo ,,francais4 pp4 #eh #aijf ,,fauchere1 ,a4 ,,culture ,,pratique ,,du ,,cacaoyer ,,et ,,preparation ,,du ,,cacao4 pp4 #age4 ,paris #aijf ,,prud',,homme1 ,e4 ,,le ,,cocotier4 ,,culture1 ,,industrie ,,et ,,commerce4 pp4 #dia4 #aijf ,,de ,,mendonca1 ,monteiro4 ,,boa ,,entrada ,,plantations1 ,,san ,,thome4 pp4 #fc4 ,london #aijg ,,mountmorres1 ,viscount4 ,,maize1 ,,cocoa1 ,,rubber4 pp4 #dd4 ,liverpool #aijg ,,saldau1 ,e4 ,,die ,,schokoladen ,,fabrikation4 ,vienna 7see #ahha7 #aijg ,,wright1 ,h4 ,,theobroma ,,cacao ,,or ,,cocoa4 pp4 #bdi4 ,colombo #aijg ,,rafaeli1 ,v41 and ,,maximiliano1 ,e4 ,,how ,,jose ,,formed ,,his ,,cacao ,,estate4 pp4 #ah4 ,trinidad #aijg ,,toraille1 ,c4,f4 ,,stolen ,,from ,,the ,,fields4 ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,cacao ,,and ,,its ,,cultivation4 ,trinidad #aijg ,,huggins1 ,j4,d4 ,,hints ,,to ,,those ,,engaging ,,in ,,the ,,cultivation ,,of ,,cocoa4 pp4 #bd4 ,port of ,spain1 ,trinidad #aijh ,,smith1 ,h4 ,hamel4 ,,the ,,future ,,of ,,cacao ,,planting4 pp4 #ie4 ,london #aijh ,,atbe4 ,,el ,,cultivo ,,las ,,disersas ,,industrias ,,des ,,coco4 pp4 #db4 ,quito #aiji ,,hart1 ,j4,h4 ,,cacao4 pp4 #cjg4 ,duckworth1 ,london 7see #ahib and #aijj7 #aiaa ,,smith1 ,h4 ,hamel4 ,,notes ,,on ,,soil ,,and ,,plant ,,sanitation ,,on ,,cacao ,,and ,,rubber ,,estates4 pp4 #fjc4 ,bale1 ,london #aiaa ,,carvatho1 d',almeida4 ,a ,,ilha ,,de ,s4 ,,thome ,e ,a ,,agricultura ,,progressiva4 7,includes ,culturas de ,cacoeiro47 pp4 #bbh4 ,lisbon #aiab ,,johnson1 ,w4,h4 ,,cocoa3 ,,its ,,cultivation ,,and ,,preparation4 pp4 #ahf4 7,imperial ,institute47 ,london #aiab ,,author ,,not ,,given4 ,,cacao ,,culture ,,in ,,the ,,west ,,indies4 pp4 #ge4 ,havana4 7,published by ,german ,alkali ,works1 ,cuba47 #aiab ,,henry1 ,yves4 ,,le ,,cacao4 pp4 #ajc4 ,paris #aiac ,,smith1 ,h4 ,hamel4 ,,the ,,fermentation ,,of ,,cacao4 pp4 #cah4 ,bale1 ,london #aiac ,,malins-,,smith1 ,w4,m4 ,,practical ,,cacao ,,planting ,,in ,,grenada4 7,west ,india ,committee ,circular1 ,april to ,december47 #aiac ,,hall1 ,c4,j4,j4 van4 ,,cocoa4 pp4 #eab4 ,macmillan1 ,london #aiad ,,knapp1 ,a4,w4 ,,the ,,practice ,,of ,,cacao ,,fermentation4 pp4 #bd4 ,bale1 ,london #aiad 7b7 ,chocolate ,manufacture4 ,,besselich1 ,n4 ,,die ,,schokolade4 pp4 #gd4 ,trier4 ,,zipperer1 ,p4 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,chocolate4 pp4 #bgg4 ,berlin1 ,london and ,new ,york 7see #ahhi and #aiac7 #aijb ,,duval1 ,e4 ,,confiserie ,,moderne4 #aijh ,,booth1 ,n4,p41 ,,cribb1 ,c4,h41 and ,,ellis-,,richards1 ,p4,a4 ,,the ,,composition ,,and ,,analysis ,,of ,,chocolate4 ,reprinted from the ,analyst4 pp4 #ae4 ,london #aiji ,,fritsch1 ,f4 ,,fabrication ,,du ,,chocolat4 pp4 #cdi4 ,paris #aiaj ,,francois1 ,l4 ,,les ,,aliments ,,sucres ,,industriels 7,chocolats1 ,bonbons1 etc47 pp4 #adc4 ,paris #aiab ,,whymper1 ,r4 ,,cocoa ,,and ,,chocolate3 ,,their ,,chemistry ,,and ,,manufacture4 pp4 #cbg4 ,churchill1 ,london #aiab ,,zipperer1 ,p4 ,,die ,,schokoladen-,,fabrikation4 pp4 #cdi4 ,berlin 7see also #ahhi and #aijb7 #aiac ,,jacoutot1 ,auguste4 ,,chocolate ,,and ,,confectionery ,,manufacture4 pp4 xv1 #baa4 ,j4 ,baker ,sons4 ,london 7c7 ,general4 ,,winton1 ,a4,l41 ,,silverman1 ,m41 and ,,bailey1 ,e4,m4 ,,analyses ,,of ,,cacao ,,and ,,cocoa4 ,report ,connecticut ,agri4 ,expt4 ,station1 ,u4,s4,a4 pp4 #dj4 #aijb ,,head1 ,brandon4 ,,the ,,food ,,of ,,the ,,gods4 pp4 #aji4 ,london #aijc ,,stollwerck1 ,w4 ,,der ,,kakao ,,und ,,die ,,schokoladen ,,industrie4 pp4 #ajb4 ,jena #aijg ,u4,s4 ,,consular ,,report ,,no4 #ej 7,dept4 of ,commerce and ,labour47 ,,cocoa ,,production ,,and ,,trade4 pp4 #ea4 ,washington #aiab ,,castillo1 ,ledon4 ,,el ,,chocolate4 pp4 vi1 #cj4 ,mexico #aiag ,,bulletin ,,imperial ,,institute4 ,,cocoa ,,production ,,in ,,the ,,british ,,empire4 pp4 #dj-ie4 ,london #aiai ,,knapp1 ,a4,w41 and ,mc,l,e,l,l,a,n1 ,b4,g4 ,,the ,,estimation ,,of ,,cacao ,,shell 7reprint from ,analyst74 pp4 #ba4 ,london #aiai 99 99 99 99 99 ,the bibliography above is made as complete as possible as far as bound books in ,english are concerned4 ,it also gives the more important continental publications4 ,should any errors or omissions have been made here or elsewhere1 the author will be grateful if readers will point them out4 ,,periodicals4 ,only one or two of the important papers in current literature are mentioned4 ,much valuable material is to be found in the following3 ,,cacao ,,production ,the papers published by the various departments of agriculture 7especially those of ,trinidad1 ,grenada1 ,philippines1 ,java1 ,ceylon1 ,gold ,coast1 ,kew1 etc471 the ,bulletin of the ,imperial ,institute1 ,the ,west ,india ,committee ,circular1 ,tropical ,life1 ,west ,africa1 ,der ,tropenpflanzer1 etc4 ,,statistics ,the ,gordian1 ,tea and ,coffee ,trade ,journal4 ,,manufacture ,the ,confectioners' ,union4 ,,chemistry ,the ,analyst1 the ,journal of the ,society of ,chemical ,industry1 and the ,journal of the ,chemical ,society4 ,,index ,asterisks denote illustrations4 ,,accra1 #gd1 #ia1 #aad1 #ahe 7see also ,gold ,coast7 ,acids produced by fermentation1 #eg ,adulterants1 #afc ,adulteration1 cocoa1 #agi chocolate1 #ahj ,agostini cacao picker1 #df1 99#df ,agricultural colleges1 #db education1 #ij ,alcohol produced by fermentation1 #eb1 #eg ,alkaline treating of cocoa1 #agc ,allen1 ,grant1 #aad ,altitude1 cacao cultivation1 #ah ,alligator cacao1 #bd ,analytical composition--cacao bean1 #aff cacao butter1 #aei cacao shell1 #afc chocolate1 #agf cocoa1 #afh milk chocolate1 #agh ,,arriba1 #gd1 #hd 7see also ,guayaquil7 ,aztec1 #e1 #g1 #h ,bacteria--fermentation1 #eg ,bagging cacao beans1 99#ajg1 99#aaj ,,bahia1 #gd1 #hg1 #aad ,bainbridge and ,davies1 #abe ,baker ,co41 ,walter1 #aba ,beans1 #c1 #afg1 99#abi breaking machine1 #acj breaking of1 into fragments1 #acj changes--fermentation1 #eg characteristics of1 #ge size and weight of1 #gd use as money1 #h ,bibliography1 #aia ,blending1 #acc ,booth1 ,n4,p41 #ge1 #ahj ,botanical description1 #be ,bournville1 #abh1 #add1 #afb ,boxing chocolates1 99#agc ,,brazil1 #ch1 #hb1 #hd1 #hg1 #ahe ,breaking cacao pods1 #ej1 99#ea ,brill1 ,h4,c41 #ei ,,british ,,guiana1 #hd ,,british ,,west ,,africa1 #ahe 7see also ,gold ,coast7 ,buying cacao1 #aji ,by-products1 #aeg1 #afa ,cacao beans1 7see beans7 ,cacao butter1 #ace1 #aeg1 #aei1 #aff1 #afh1 #aga1 #agf1 #agh keeping properties1 #aeh melting point1 #adi1 #aeh pressing out of1 #ace ,cacao1 cultivation1 #ag1 #ch1 #aaf definition1 #b explanation name1 #a introduction into ,europe1 #aj keeping properties1 #abb manufacturers' requirements1 #ge picker1 #df1 99#df preparations1 popularity of1 #ae shell1 7see shell7 ,cacauatl1 #a ,cadbury ,bros41 #ae1 #aed ,cadbury1 ,richard1 #af ,caffein1 #aff1 #afh1 #agb1 #agf1 #agh ,cailler ,co41 #aed ,calabacillo1 #bc1 99#bg1 #gf ,,cameroon',s1 #gd1 #hb1 #ia1 #aje1 #aad ,,caracas1 #gd1 #hg ,carmody1 ,professor1 #ch1 #da ,,carupano1 #gd1 #hg ,catch crop1 #cf ,,ceylon1 #ah1 #db1 #eb1 #fh1 #gj1 #gd1 #ha1 #hb1 #ajf1 #aad1 #ahe ,chittenden1 ,dr41 #eb ,claying1 #gj1 99#ga1 #gf1 #hh ,clearing the land1 99#bi1 #cj ,clifford1 ,sir ,hugh1 #ia ,climate1 cacao cultivation1 #ag ,criollo1 99#bg1 #cd1 #eb1 #ei1 #hg1 #ajg ,chocolate1 #agf1 #ahj ,chocolate1 ancient usage1 #aj covering recipe1 #aej covering1 suggested legal definition1 #ahb definition1 #c derivation of word1 #h fascination of1 #h houses and clubs1 #ab powder1 #ahj recipe1 #adj suggested legal definitions1 #aha sustaining value1 #agd ,chocolatl1 #g1 #h ,chupons1 7see suckers7 ,cocoa1 #afh1 #afi definition1 #b digestibility of1 #aga how to make1 #agj origin of word1 #c powder1 introduction of1 #ae ,coconuts1 distinction between and cacao1 #c ,colouring beans1 #gb ,colour1 cacao bean1 #be1 #gg cacao butter1 #aeh cacao flowers1 #bb cacao leaves1 #bb cacao pods1 #bd1 #dh changes during fermentation1 #eg1 #ei1 #fa ,columbus1 #g ,composition1 7see analyses7 ,compressor1 chocolate1 #adh ,conching1 #ade ,conche machine1 99#adg1 99#adh ,,congo1 #hb1 #ia1 #aad ,consumption1 #ae1 #ahd ,british ,isles1 #ahd ,world1 #ahf ,contract labour1 ,cameroons1 #ajf ,san ,thome1 #ajc ,cortes1 #g ,covering cremes1 99#aea ,,cuba1 #hb ,dancing1 cacao beans1 #gb ,de ,candolle1 #id ,decauville railways1 #eb ,,demerara1 #aad ,diseases1 cacao tree1 #dc ,,dominica1 #hb1 #hh ,drying1 #fb1 99#fc1 #fd1 99#fd1 99#fe1 99#fh1 99#fi1 99#he1 99#ih1 99#aje ,dryers1 artificial1 #ff1 99#fg ,duty1 #ac1 #ahe ,duty1 cacao beans1 #ad1 #ahe cacao butter1 #ad cacao shell1 #ad ,earle1 ,dr4 ,gastineau1 #agd ,,ecuador1 #eb1 #ha1 #hb1 #hd1 #ahe ,enrobing machine1 #aeb1 99#aeb ,enzymes1 #ei1 #fa1 #ff ,exports1 cacao butter1 #afj beans1 #hd ,extracting beans from pod1 #ej ,faber1 ,dr4 von1 #bb ,faelli1 ,professor1 #afd ,fat 7see cacao butter7 ,fermentation1 #eb1 #ef changes during1 #ee control of1 #fc good effects of1 #fj loss of weight1 during1 #fd period of1 #eb temperature of1 #ec1 #ee1 #ei1 #fa ,fermenting boxes1 99#ed1 99#eh ,,fernando ,,po1 #hb1 #ia ,fickendey1 ,dr41 #ee1 #ei1 #fa ,flavouring chocolate1 #adf ,flowers1 99#ba1 #bb1 #gd ,flowers1 percentage fruiting1 #gd ,food value1 cacao bean1 #aff chocolate1 #agc1 #agf cocoa1 #afh milk chocolate1 #agh old opinions1 #afe ,forastero1 99#bg1 #cd1 #ec1 #ei1 #gg ,forster1 ,j41 #aga1 #agb ,freeman1 ,w4,g41 #cd ,,french ,,colonies1 #hb ,fritsch1 ,j41 #agc ,fruit1 cacao1 #ba ,fry1 ,j4,s41 ,sons1 #ad1 #ae1 #abb1 #acd ,fry1 ,joseph1 #c1 #ac ,fungi1 #dd ,gage1 ,thomas1 #h1 #aj ,gathering1 #de1 99#dg1 99#di1 99#he ,geographical distribution1 #ah ,germ1 cacao1 #ei1 99#abi1 #aca screens1 99#aca separation of1 #aca ,germination1 prevention of1 #fa ,,gold ,,coast1 #ah1 #db1 #gd1 #ha1 #hb1 #ia1 #id1 #ajg 7see also ,accra7 native industry1 #id ,gordon1 ,w4,j41 #aj ,gouveia1 ,dr41 #aje ,grafting and budding1 #cd1 #ge ,,grenada1 #cj1 #ch1 #gd1 #gf1 #ha1 #hb1 #hh1 #ij1 #aad ,grinding1 #abj1 #acd1 99#adc mill1 cocoa1 99#acc1 #acd1 99#ace machine1 chocolate1 #adj1 99#adb1 99#ade ,grousseau ,viconge1 #afc ,,guayaquil1 #cb1 #gf1 #hd1 #aji1 #aad 7see also ,arriba and ,machala7 ,,haiti1 #hb1 #hh ,hart1 ,j4,h41 #cd ,height1 cacao tree1 #bj1 #cf ,historicus1 #af ,history1 cocoa and chocolate1 #a ,home of cacao1 #e ,husk1 7see shell7 ,hutchison1 ,dr41 #agj1 #age ,illipe butter1 #aei ,immortel1 ,bois1 #cg ,imports1 cacao butter1 #afj cacao bean1 #ahe ,incas1 #h ,insect ,pests1 #dd ,,jamaica1 #hb1 #hh ,,java1 #ah1 #cg1 #db1 #ed1 #fh1 #gj1 #hb1 #ajf1 #aad ,knapp1 ,a4,w41 #ge1 #afd ,,lagos1 #hb1 #ia ,leaves1 cacao1 #bb1 99#ahg ,linnaeus1 #a ,linalool1 #fj1 #abe ,loew1 ,dr4 ,o41 #ee ,,machala1 #gd1 #hd 7see also ,guayaquil7 ,,madagascar1 #fh1 #ajf ,manufacture1 chocolate1 #adj cocoa1 #acd early methods of1 99#i1 #aai1 99#abj1 99#aba1 #abi loss on1 #ad milk chocolate1 99#aee1 99#aha ,manufacturers' requirements1 #ge ,manure1 #cb cacao shell as1 #afb ,map1 ,africa1 99#ib ,south ,america1 99#hi ,world1 99#hc ,,maracaibo1 #hg ,markets1 cacao1 #ajg ,mass1 #acd1 #acf ,melangeur1 #adj1 99#ada1 #add ,,mexico1 #a1 #g1 #ah ,milk chocolate1 #aed1 #agh1 #ahb suggested legal definition1 #ahb recipe1 #aee ,montezuma1 #g ,mosses1 cacao tree1 #bb ,moulding chocolate1 #adf ,mountmorres1 ,viscount1 #dj ,mulching1 #cb ,neumann1 ,dr4 ,r4,o41 #aga ,nib1 #ae1 #abj1 #abh1 99#abi1 #acj1 #acd ,nib1 percentage shell1 #acc yield of1 #ae ,nicholls1 ,dr4 ,l41 #ee ,nursery1 cacao1 99#cc ,odour1 cocoa1 #gg1 #adf1 #afa fermentation1 #fj ,orellano1 #f ,packing chocolates1 99#agg cocoa1 #ach ,,para1 #gd1 #hg ,perrot1 ,professor1 #fj ,,peru1 #h ,pests 7see diseases7 ,peter1 ,m4,d41 #aed ,picker1 cacao1 #df1 99#df ,,philippines1 #db ,plantation1 cacao1 #bg1 99#ajd ,planting1 #cb1 99#cd1 #cg ,pod1 99#b1 #e1 #bc1 99#bc1 99#be1 99#bh1 99#ahg picking of1 #df yield of cacao1 #gd ,polishing beans1 #gb1 #gh ,pollination1 cacao flowers1 #bb ,press cake1 #ach cocoa1 99#acf1 99#acg ,pressing cocoa1 #acf ,preuss1 ,dr4 ,paul1 #ff1 #gj ,preyer1 ,dr4 ,axel1 #ee ,price1 cacao1 #hf1 #if1 #aab1 99#aac1 #ahe cacao butter1 #afj cacao shell1 #afd chocolate1 #ac theobromine1 #agb ,,principe1 #ajj ,production of cacao1 ,africa1 #ia ,british ,possessions1 #ha1 #hb1 #ahc ,british ,west ,africa1 #ia ,british ,west ,indies1 #hh ,gold ,coast1 #id increasing of1 #ge ,san ,thome and ,principe1 #ajj shell1 #afa ,south ,america1 #hd ,west ,indies1 #hh ,world1 99#hj1 #ha1 #hb ,pruning1 #dj ,pulp1 cacao1 99#bd1 #be1 #eb1 #ee1 #fj ,rainfall1 cacao cultivation1 #ah ,raleigh1 ,sir ,walter1 #f ,refining machine1 99#adb ,research ,association1 vi ,revis and ,bolton1 #abh ,richelieu1 ,cardinal1 #aa ,roaster1 99#abf1 #abh ,roasting1 #aai1 #abe loss on1 #abg ,rocking tables1 #adi1 99#adi ,root system1 99#ca ,sack1 ,dr41 #ee1 #ff ,sales of cacao1 #aaa ,,samana1 #ia ,,samoa1 #hb1 #ajf1 #aad ,,sanchez1 #ia ,,san ,,domingo1 #hb1 #hh1 #ia ,sangre-tora1 #bd ,,san ,,thome1 #ch1 #eb1 #ed1 #hb1 #ia1 #ajj1 #aad ,schulte im ,hofe1 ,dr4 ,a41 #ee ,seed1 selection of1 #cb ,shade1 #cf1 99#cg1 99#ch1 99#ci1 #ij1 #ajb ,shaking table1 chocolate1 #adi1 99#adi ,shell1 cacao1 99#abi1 #afa1 #afc butter1 #afb coffee substitute1 #afc as feeding stuff1 #afb1 #afc in finished cocoa1 #ahj food units1 #afc fuel1 #afb manure1 #afb removal of1 #abj1 #abh separating machine1 #acb1 99#acb tea from1 #afa ,sherman1 ,h4,c41 #agf ,sieving cocoa1 #ach ,size1 bean1 #gh cocoa particles1 #ach sugar particles1 #add ,smalls1 #acb ,smetham1 ,a41 #afc1 #afg ,smith1 ,h4 ,hamel1 #ee ,snyder1 ,harry1 #agf ,soil1 #cj ,soluble cocoa1 #afh1 #agb ,sorting beans1 99#gc1 99#hf1 #abc ,sorting-cleaning machine1 #abd1 99#abd1 99#abe ,stimulating properties1 #fj1 #agb ,,st4 ,,lucia1 #hb1 #hh ,storing cacao1 #abb1 99#abc ,,st4 ,,vincent1 #hb1 #hh ,suckers1 #dj1 99#da ,surf boats1 99#ajh ,,surinam1 #cj1 #eb1 #hb1 #hd1 #aad ,sweat boxes1 #ec1 99#ec ,sweatings1 #eg1 #fc ,tannin1 #ei ,tap root1 99#ca1 #cb ,taste1 fermentation1 #ei ,temperature1 cacao cultivation1 #ah covering chocolate1 #aea fermentation1 #ec1 #ee1 #ei1 #fa germination1 #fa chocolate moulding1 #adi bean roasting1 #abh ,tempering machine1 #adi ,theobroma cacao1 #a1 #bf ,theobromine1 in bean1 #aff chocolate1 #agf cocoa1 #afh1 #agb fermentation1 #fj milk chocolate1 #agh shell1 #afb ,,togo1 #hb1 #ia ,transport of cacao1 99#ef1 99#ic1 99#ie1 #if1 99#ig1 99#ii1 99#ajj1 99#aja1 99#ajb1 99#ajc1 99#ajf1 #ajg1 99#ajh1 99#aaj ,tree1 cacao1 #ai1 99#ai1 99#bj growth1 #dj yield of1 #gd ,,trinidad1 #ah1 #cj1 #cd1 #cg1 #da1 #db1 #eb1 #fh1 #gj1 #gb1 #gd1 #ge1 #gf1 #ha1 #hb1 #hh1 #ajc1 #aad ,van ,houten1 ,c4,j41 #ae ,varieties of cacao1 #bf ,vasmer1 ,theo41 #ahc1 #ahf ,,venezuela1 #ah1 #gj1 #gf1 #ha1 #hb1 #hd1 #ajf ,washing cacao beans1 #fh1 99#gj1 #gh1 #ajg ,watt1 ,sir ,george1 #ej ,weight1 bag of cacao1 #aji loss on drying1 #fd loss on fermentation1 #fd loss on roasting1 #abh ,,west ,,indies1 #hh ,,west ,,indies1 ,,british1 #hh1 #ahe ,wind-screen trees1 #cj ,winnowing machine 7see shell separating machine7 ,whisk1 chocolate1 99#f1 99#agj ,yeasts1 fermenting1 #eg ,yield1 cacao pod1 #gd cacao tree1 #gd per acre1 #gd1 #ajc ,zipperer1 ,p41 #adi1 #afd ,,the ,,westminster ,,press ,,harrow ,,road ,,london