file :i* includes ! orig9al illu/rations4 ,see #ahiga-;h4htm or #ahiga-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/h_ /i_/g_/ahiga_/ahiga-;h_/#ahiga-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/h_ /i_/g_/ahiga_/ahiga-;h4zip7 ,,jacobean ,,embroid]y ,its ,=ms & ,fill+s ,includ+ ,late ,tudor by ,,ada ,,w5twor? ,,fitzwilliam & ,a4 ,f4 ,,morris ,,h&s ,publi%]s' ,note4 ,plates #a1 l#j;a1 #aa1 #ab 7"p (71 #bj & #bc h already be5 publi%$ 9 ,ne$lecraft ,mon?ly ,magaz9e & are includ$ 9 ?is collection by p]mission ( ! ,editor4 ,london ,kegan ,paul1 ,tr5*1 ,truebn] & ,co4 ,ltd4 ,broadway ,h\se1 ,c>t] ,lane1 ,e4,c4 #aiab ,,cont5ts ,introductory ,hi/ory by ,a4 ,f4 ,morris ,h&s4 ,op4 ,i ,tudor ,"w4 ,op4 ,,ii ,e>ly #ag? ,c5tury4 ,op4 ,,iii ,details ( ,blue ,crewel ,"w 7! late ,lady ,m>ia ,ponsonby's74 ,op4 ,,iv ,! uses ( ,/em ,/it* & o!r *>act]i/ics4 ,op4 ,v ,b$ ,hang+s at ,h>dwicke ,hall4 ,op4 ,va ,gr\ps ( ,fill+s 9 :i* d>n+ plays important "p4 ,op4 ,,vi ,b$ ,hang+ f ,p[is ,ca/le4 ,op4 ,,vii ,*>act]i/ic ,foliations & ,late #ag? ,c5tury ,fill+s4 ,op4 ,,viii ,solid ,crewel ,"w #ah? ,c5tury includ+ ! ,t]ra ,firma & diff]5t birds & bea/s4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,plate #a ,/rip ( ,tudor ,"w4 #b ,gr\p ( leaves on cu%ions at ,knole ,p>k4 #b;a ,gr\p ( light details 9 e>ly examples4 #c ,details f old example1 c>ri$ out 9 d>k blues1 belong$ to ! late ,lady ,m>ia ,ponsonby4 #d ,ditto4 #e ,ditto4 #f ,ditto4 #g ,detail ( ,foxglove design4 #h ,col\r plate--,detail f old ,b$ ,hang+s1 dat$ #afif4 #i ,detail f old ,b$ ,hang+s1 dat$ #afif4 #aj ,l>ge heavy leaf 9 "w dat$ #afif4 #aj;a ,leaf %[+ sev5 diff]5t /it*es4 #aa ,b$ ,hang+ at ,h>dwicke4 #ab ,set ( details 79 col\r7 ( ,h>dwicke design4 #ac ,set ( details ( ,h>dwicke design4 #ad ,gr\p ( ,fill+s4 #ae ,design ( ,b$ ,hang+s at ,p[is ,ca/le4 #af ,*>act]i/ic leaf ( be/ p]iod4 #ag ,ditto4 #ah ,late #ag? ,c5tury ,fill+s4 #ai ,fill+s f ,georgian copy ( old example4 #bj ,/em ( leaf 9 ,solid "w 7col\r plate74 #ba ,examples ( diff]5t leaves4 #bb ,ditto4 #bc ,col\r plate--,t]ra ,firma4 #bd ,birds & ,bea/s *>act]i/ic ( ,jacobean design4 #be ,ditto4 #bf ,ditto4 #bg ,ditto4 ,,introduction ,to r$eem ! monotony ( pla9 surfaces has ev] be5 ! aim ( all ! arts1 b especially t ( ! ne$le1 :i* be+ ! olde/ expression ( decorative int5tion1 has1 f ! e>lie/ "t1 be5 v dep5d5t on its gr\ndwork = its ultimate results4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly ! case 9 embroid]ies ( ! type ( :at is commonly kn[n z ,jacobean1 :]e ! gr\nd fabric is ext5sively visible1 z x is also 9 t wondr\s a*ievem5t1 ! ,bayeux tape/ry work$ 9 co>se wools ^u homespun l95 & !re=e q miscall$ tape/ry4 ,inaccuracy 9 nom5clature is "o ( ! /umbl+ blocks ! /ud5t enc\nt]s1 & ! t5d5cy ( ! day to classify /yles by ! re/rict$ =mula ( mon>*ical p]iods is likewise mislead+4 ,no /yle is ev] solely di/9ctive ( "o reign1 or ev5 "o c5tury1 ! law ( evolution rules ! arts z x does nature1 !re is always a correlation betwe5 /yles 9 art & circum/ances ( exi/5ce t is productive ( gradual *anges ( ta/e1 !re=e1 pron\nc$ evid5ces 9 design are1 actually1 ! culm9at+ po9t 9 a c\rse ( comb9$ influ5ces :i* h rea*$ ! p]iod ( individual expression4 ,crewel "w ( ! type ( ,jacobean1 0 ! outcome ( t e>li] wool embroid]y t ev5 9 ! z5i? ( fame ( ! ,ecclesia/ical brod]]s /ill quietly w5t on its way4 ,9 ! middle ages1 furni%+ ( rooms 0 scanty1 & embroid]$ hang+s1 cu%ion & /ool cov]s provid$ ! necess>y notes ( col\r & com=t2 ! wall hang+s ( ! #ac? c5tury 7 ( co>se canvas decorat$ ) a design execut$ 9 wools4 ,x is curi\s h[ 9 ,engli% embroid]ies !re has always be5 a pr$ilection on ! "p ( ! design]s = int]lac+ /ems1 & = ! inconsequ5t introduction ( birds & bea/s4 ,mons de ,f>cy1 au?or ( ,la ,brod]ie du ,onzieme siecle jusqu'a nos j\rs1 rem>ks t x seems t ! position ( ,engl&1 surr\nd$ by ! sea on all sides1 has provok$ 9 its inhabitants ! passion ( travell+ ov] ! sea1 & !y came to "k1 be=e cont95tal nations1 ( ! p>rots & o!r birds ( brilliant plumage s (t5 reproduc$ 9 _! ne$lework4#a ,mrs4 ,*ri/ie1 an ,engli% au?ority on ,embroid]y1 admirably sums up ! evolution ( designs :5 %e writes ,exam9ation ( old ,embroid]ies ga!r$ f all p>ts ( ! _w %[s t ea* individual specim51 e fl[] & bud1 is a developm5t ( "s exi/+ =m1 & is n an orig9al creation1 inv5t$1 z "s appe> to ?9k all designs are1 ^u ! spur ( ! mom5t4 ,9 ! creation ( a design x is a case ( assimilation ( ! fitte/ & ! elim9ation ( ! unsuitable f exi/+ examples1 ?us ! int]lac+ /ems ( ! "w ( ! #ad? c5tury became graft$ on to ! v]sion ( ! ,tree ( ,life idea 9 ! ,ori5tal designs t came to ,engl& 9 ! #af?1 ?r\gh ! int]c\rse op5$ up by ! =mation ( ! ,ea/ ,india ,company1 at ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,to deem1 z d "s writ]s1 ! bold1 r pond]\s crewel "w ( ! #ag? c5tury1 sole outcome ( ! importation ( ! ,palampores ( ,musulipatan1 is to ignore all ! t5d5cies manife/$ 9 ! embroid]ies ( previ\s c5turies2 9 ! same way1 to repudiate ! emblematical significance ( special features m>k$ly introduc$ into old designs1 is to betray a complete lack ( k ( ! m9d & mann]s ( ! p ( sup]/iti\s days4 ,k 0 n rapidly acquir$1 & ev5 z late z ! #ag? c5tury 0 l>gely dissem9at$ ?r\gh ! c\ntry by allegorical n>ratives1 :ile emblematical lore reflect$ ! hi/ory ( ! imm$iate mom5t4 ,!re 0 9 ! poetry & 9 ! embroid]y ( ,elizabe?'s day1 a sportive quality :i* 0 n likely to be *eck$ "u ! ,/u>ts1 d\bles ent5dres 7 n conf9$ to je/s6 & ! political & religi\s diff]5ces ( op9ion1 rampant ?r\gh\t ! p]iod1 f\nd expression 9 ! mo/ fanta/ic ways4 ,! ,/ump ,embroid]y1 9 vogue at ! same "t z ! crewel hang+s specially treat$ 9 ?is volume1 0 full ( symbolism1 & naturally ! same inspiration direct$ ! work] 9 crewels4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 bo? ^! v diff]5t types ( ne$lework1 cry/alis$ into individuality concurr5tly1 yet "o is usually designat$ ,jacobean1 ! o!r ref]r$ to z ,/u>t4 ,9 ?is connection x is well also to rememb]1 t ! ,/u>t era ext5d$1 hi/orically1 f #afjc to #agad1 viz41 f ! reign ( ,james ,i 7,jacobus7 to t ( ,que5 ,anne1 daught] ( ,james ,,ii4 ,que5 ,anne is s (t5 relegat$1 9 ! public m9d1 to an isolat$ position1 g5ealogically1 & ! pron\nc$ developm5ts 9 ! *anges ( ta/e t took place at ! comm5cem5t ( ! ( ! #ah? c5tury1 left su* a v def9ite impression1 t %e is r>ely rememb]$ z a ,/u>t2 x 0 9 h] reign1 h[ev]1 t ! vogue = ! old crewel embroid]ies reviv$1 & ?\gh diff]5ces ( treatm5t crept 91 ! designs1 71 9 ! ma91 purely ,jacobean1 be+ copies or adaptations ( patt]ns popul> 9 ! middle ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,x is ^! copies t exi/ mo/ly to-day1 few1 inde$1 are ^? hang+s :i* p]ta9 to ! e>li] date1 b a /udy ( ^? few1 tak5 9 conjunction ) ! /ill few] t rema9 ( ! #af? c5tury1 prove ! gradual gr[? ( ! designs t h ! tree motif :i* makes !m all k94 ,lady ,br\gham & ,vaux _h a mo/ wond]ful collection1 f :i* int]e/+ comp>isons c\ld be made4 ,"o pair ( b$ hang+s1 ( co>se l95 ( ! #af? c5tury1 %[ ! trees ) a me&]+ gr[? entirely *>act]i/ic ( ^? ( heavi] k9d :i* appe> 9 lat] embroid]ies1 ^! trees also are und\bt$ly int5d$ to repres5t ! ,tree ( ,life1 = r\nd "o is coil$ a s]p5t1 :ile b5ea? ! scanty b l>ge leav$ b\ghs1 incid5ts 9 ! /ory ( ! expulsion f ,p>adise are to be descri$1 z also ! procession into ! ark4 ,! "w is )\t d\bt e>ly1 = !re is a primitive "* 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! inconsequ5t gr\ps ( figures1 ,adam & ,eve /& nude ei!r side ! tree1 c\ples 9 weird ?\gh contemporane\s co/ume to ! "w are dott$ ov] ! surface q at haphaz>d4 ,! simil>ity betwe5 ! tree on ^! curta9s & on "o ( ! #ah? c5tury once 9 ! same collection is v /rik+4 ,add$ grace ( design has beautifi$ ! lat] "w1 b ! same =ms c be trac$ & ! same p>rots & squirrels are introduc$1 ! ,biblical /ory at ! foot ( ! #af? c5tury curta9 has be5 replac$ by a portion ( ! leg5d ( ! human s\l4 ,ano!r v int]e/+ example ,i h se51 attribut$ to ! ye>s ( ,james ,i's reign1 seems to sugge/ t ! work] _h realis$ ! waves 9 an ,ea/]n patt]n & made gr[?s ( coral at ! base ( ! tree1 b _h !n conv]t$ a l9e or two ( waves into t]ra firma1 = at "o end reposes a lion1 t[>ds :i* a /ag is b\nd+ ) head turn$ back z if 9 fe> ( pursu]s4 ,! birds 9 ?is example are v tropical1 a m9iature peacock on ! l[] bran*es spreads its tail /iffly1 p>rots l ! "o illu/rat$ 9 our collection ( details1 birds ( p>adise1 & squirrels1 are all to be not$ among foliations t are ! mo/ sup]b1 tak5 individually1 x is possible to imag9e1 mo/ are work$ fairly solid1 su* light fill+s z !re are1 be+ small sprays ( leaves l ^? 9 our plate ,no4 #ag4 ,c>nations1 h>ebells1 cant]bury bells1 roses1 m>igolds1 grapes1 are includ$ 9 ! composition2 block %ad+1 *a9 /it*1 /em /it* are all employ$ 9 ! work+1 & a v int]e/+ example ( ! ,opus ,plum>ian is giv5 9 ! tail fea!rs ( ! t9y peacock4 ,! dissection ( detail 9 e>ly ,engli% crewel embroid]y is a v fasc9at+ occupation & well repays ! exp5diture ( "t4 ,s little has be5 writt5 ab\t ?is p>ticul> phase ( ! embroid]]'s art1 t x is by old records & examples "o becomes be/ in=m$ & 9 a great measure enabl$ to trace ! gr[? ( ! /yle t culm9at$ 9 ! massive designs t d]iv$ _! "n f ! epo* 9 :i* !y 7 9 fav\r4 ,tudor crewel "w1 0 *iefly done 9 broad outl9e ( a m or less fanciful nature z reg>ds ! /it*+1 witness ! sections ( t ,tudor piece :i* is %ewn 9 our fir/ illu/ration4 ,=ms 7 l>ge b gradually became r$uc$ z !y 7 work$ m solidly4 ,! beautiful foxglove patt]n 9 ,bess ( ,h>dwicke's curta9s at ,h>dwicke1 %ews a v slight feel+ ( transition b x may safely be assum$ t "o ( ! influ5ces be>+ on ! execution ( ! crewel "w1 0 ! port5t\s "* ( mu* ( ! contempor>y canvas h&-work$ tape/ry su* z ! fam\s set ( panels une>!d 9 ,hatton ,g>d5s4 ,! ar*itectural basis is a l9k betwe5 ! ,ecclesia/ical & ,secul> embroid]ies ( ! pa/ c5turies1 & anyone int]e/$ 9 ! evolution ( design w\ld be /ruck ) ! similitude ( ! l>ge leaves & fl[]s 9 ^! panels to ^? ( ! crewel designs ( ! same date2 x is also notewor?y t ! symbolic significance 9 ! details ( ! panels is ecclesia/ic1 :]eas 9 ! crewel "w x is always bas$ on ! leg5d ( ! ,tree ( ,life1 or secul>ly emblematic4 ,col\r+s 7 (t5 9 bo? /yles1 blues1 gre5s1 bright yell[s & br[ns pr$om9at$1 c>nation r$s figur+ 9 "s examples1 us$ = ! fl[] ( t "n & = ! pomegranate1 :i*1 ) its se$s visible1 signifies future life & immortality4 ,! c>nation & ! cat]pill> 7 bo? ,/u>t emblems1 & occur 9 ne>ly all k9ds ( "w execut$ dur+ _! reigns2 ! rose1 ( c\rse1 has its national z well z its religi\s significance1 likewise ! oak 7aft] ! re/oration74 ,! potato fl[] se5 9 bo? ,jacobean & ,portuguese embroid]ies is an example ( ! habit ( record+ ! late/ novelty1 ! /rawb]ry 0 also popul> on ?is acc\nt1 & is frequ5tly introduc$ 9 ^? hillocky =egr\nds1 :i*1 to me1 appe> "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ evid5ces ( comb9$ influ5ces4 ,once aga91 ano!r ,ori5tal idea 0 evid5tly assimilat$1 = 9 numb]less ,*9ese patt]ns "o sees ! ma9 motive spr++ out ( a base ( waves =m$ exactly l ! hillocks :i* became su* a di/9ctive feature 9 ^! l>ge bran*+ designs4 ,9 ! e>lie/ examples ! hillocks 7 mu* brok5 up1 & small] 7m l ! m\nds 9 ! pa9t$ ,palampores7 ?an 9 ! lat] "w1 f :i* we may presume ! spread ( ! ,ori5tal influ5ce _h done its "w1 ! t]ra firma be+ c>ri$ out ) a similitude to ! ea/]n v]sion ( waves t includes ! actual /it*]y2 graft$ on to ?is 0 ! leg5d ( ! pursuit ( ! human s\l 7typifi$ by a h>t7 by evil1 p]sonifi$ by ! huntsman1 ! h\nds & v>i\s uncanny bea/s1 two be>+ unflatt]+ resemblance to ! h]aldic lion & leop>d2 :ile rabbits1 snails1 grubs ( all k9d h9d] ! h>t's progress1 ^! are relics ( ! days :5 ,! ,be/i>ta 7symbolism ( bea/s7 0 c>efully /udi$4 ,! riot\s re-action f ! ,puritan rule 0 reflect$ 9 ! embroid]ies ( ! re/oration1 z 9 ev]y?+ else1 & patt]ns became exub]ant1 col\r+ m brilliant1 ! exquisite /it*]y gradually gave place to ! easi] a*ievem5t ( solid fill+s1 & ! requisite relief 0 secur$ by light sprays fill+ up ! gr\nd betwe5 ! l>g] leaves1 jasm9e1 *]ries1 h>ebells1 potato fl[]s1 honeysuckle1 %amrock or trefoil & acorns took ! lead4 ,x is an almo/ impossible task to describe ! l>ge leaves1 s9ce !y be> no resemblance to any?+ natural1 !y are1 h[ev]1 r>ely angul> 9 outl9e1 rejoic+ r 9 sweep+ curves1 & droop+ po9ts1 curl$ ov] to display ! "u side ( ! leaf1 a device t gave op5+ = mu* +5uity 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! /it*es4 ,! v>iety 9 ^! 0 s great t on read+ ! enum]ation made by ,taylor1 ! ,wat] ,poet1 "o becomes q brea?less4 ,! pr$om9at+ ones1 h[ev]1 are--,outl9e or ,/em ,/it*1 us$ = all b ! l>ge/ /ems1 & ve9+ & outl9+ leaves & fl[]s4 ,%ad+ ,/it*1 sometimes call$ long & %ort1 us$ = l>ge bran*es & leaves1 ,basket & ,d\ble ,back ,/it* are also us$ = ^! /ems4 ,sat9 ,/it*1 = all k9ds ( fl[]s & small foliage1 or = ! def9ite flat %ad+1 t is l block %ad+ )\t ! ridge caus$ by ! c>ry+ back ( ! wool into ! pa/ r[ ( /it*es4 ,buttonhole1 also mu* us$ = leaves1 especially ^? hav+ light fill+s & broad outl9es4 ,rope ,/it*1 ,coral1 ,cable & ,*a91 also = outl9es1 ! la/ nam$ be+ also us$ = fill+s4 ,! fancy fill+s su* z d>n+1 ,fr5* knots1 etc41 are demon/rat$ & describ$ 9 ! foll[+ pages1 & ! col\r plates endeav\r to give ! idea ( ! correct col\r+s4 ,9 ?is connection1 a few obs]vations1 bas$ on ! /udy ( g5u9e orig9als1 may n be amiss4 ,z ,i h be=e m5tion$1 a c]ta9 brilliancy *>act]is$ ! "w at "o p]iod1 b ?is _c be reg>d$ z ! be/ type to imitate4 ,! mo/ h>moni\s 7 c>ri$ out 9 two s*emes4 ,"o _h all ! leaves work$ 9 ,m&>9 blues1 %ad+ f d>ke/ indigo to s(te/ blue-grey4 ,^! 7 plac$ 9 juxtaposition1 ) t5d] mignonette & silv]y gre5s1 a /rong acc5t be+ occasionally introduc$ by a fl[] or fill+ c>ri$ out 9 true rose leaf %ade or by ve9+s ( bronze gre5s & br[ns4 ,! o!r s*eme1 & ?is is m r>ely met )1 0 9 bronze gre5s ?r\gh\t1 int]mix$ ) yell[ & ab\t ?ree %ades ( ! dull blues4 ,black sometimes is to be notic$ 9 bo? ^! col\r s*emes1 also bright & buff yell[s & *e/nut br[ns1 & ! col\rs 7 mo/ly conf9$ to ! blue s*eme fir/ nam$1 b !re are examples extant ( an entire design c>ri$ out 9 %ades ( r$1 z 9 ! ,tudor & e>ly #af? c5tury hang+s "o f9ds blues responsible = ! :ole col\r+4 ,^! v>y 9 tone1 & 9 ! late copies ( ! designs ! blue has a v gre5 t+e ab\t x4#b ,9 ! reign ( ,que5 ,anne ta/e rev]t$ to ! old] light] designs1 grotesques 7 elim9at$1 massiv5ess gave place to grace1 & brightness ( col\r to a s(t modifi$ brilliancy t 0 v engag+4 ,9 ! ,georgian copies heav9ess aga9 obta9$ fav\r1 & gradually ! designs det]iorat$1 & 7 ev5tually tempor>ily lo/ 9 ! limbo ( ! pa/4 ,! vogue = lace "w 9 ! reign ( ,william & ,m>y influ5c$ ! /it*es 9 ! crewel embroid]y1 & 9 ,que5 ,anne's day ! v>iety ( /it*es 0 rem9isc5t ( ! e>li] p]iod1 "s ( ! fill+s be+ beautiful4 ,! mat]ial us$ 0 ?r\gh all ! phases ! same1 viz41 a twill fabric1 ( :i* ! w>p 0 ( l951 ! weft ( cotton2 ! wools v>i$ some:at 9 ! twi/1 b 7 always wor/$1 ! ^w crewel be+ a dim9utive ( clew1 a ball ( ?read1 & probably came into vogue ) ! importation ( wools f ,g]many1 ! correspond+ ^w 9 t language be+ ,knaeuel4 ,a4 ,f4 ,,morris ,,h&s #a ,opus ,anglicum by ,m4 ,l\is de ,f>cy 9 ,embroid]y4 #b ,see example 9 ,s\? ,k5s+ton c>ri$ out 9 v h>d twi/$ blue wools4 ,! curta9 belong+ to ,mr4 ,he>n1 & n[ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 is a beautiful specim5 ( ! full col\r+ ( ! late #ag? c5tury4 ,op4 ,i ,illu/ration ,,plate #a ,?is plate 0 sket*$ f a v old /rip ( ,tudor "w1 measur+ ab\t #e;ft4 #h;94 9 l5g? & #a;ft4 #h;94 9 wid?4 ,ea* leaf 0 ab\t #bb;94 long & #ai;94 across4 ,! /rip _h evid5tly be5 "p ( a b$ valance1 &1 z f> z "o c\ld tell--= x 0 mu* fad$--_h be5 work$ 9 two %ades ( wool only--d>k indigo blue & bright gre52 ! latt] _h fad$1 almo/ ev]y:]e1 to a s(t mignonette col\r4 ,op4 ,,ii ,,plate #b ,a gr\p ( blue leaves1 etc41 tak5 f "s old cu%ions at ,knole ,p>k1 ,sev5oaks4 ,no4 #a4 ,/em /it* cont\r3 ,maid5hair 9 buttonhole /it*4 ,/> 9 buttonhole /it* on backgr\nd ( small crosses4 ,no4 #b4 ,/em /it*4 ,no4 #c4 ,/em /it* cont\rs4 ,c5tre 9 loop /it*4 ,no4 #d4 ,/em /it* cont\rs4 ,c5tre loop /it* & maid5hair 9 buttonhole /it*4 ,no4 #e4 ,/em /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #b ,,plate #b;a ,gr\p ( ! light] details t break up ! heavy masses 9 ! e>lie/ & late/ examples4 ,! m$l>-l fruit is work$ 9 ,crewel /it* 9 b&s ( br[n1 /em light] 9 %ade4 ,! leaves1 ,example ,i ,,ii1 sat9 /it* ) /em /it* outl9e bo? sides1 c5tre ve9+s 9 /em /it*1 turnov] 9 leaf1 ,,ii1 9 block /it*4 ,,iii ,buttonhole edg+ ) d>n$ c5tre1 c5tre fill$ ) /r&s ( wool caught d[n at int]vals ) d\ble back /it*4 ,,iv ,fl[]s 9 s(t blues 9 sat9 /it*1 acorns h _! cups work$ 9 ,fr5* knots4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #b;a ,op4 ,,iii ,! foll[+ plates 7 sket*$ f an old /rip ( "w done 9 deep indigo wor/$ wool1 ) a r light] wool1 bo? 9 col\r & make1 us$ 9 ! f9e buttonhole "w & d>n+1 ( :i* !re is mu* ?r\gh\t ! "w4 ,! design 0 a bran*+ "o1 ! fl[]s & leaves--mo/ ( :i* appe> 9 ! foll[+ plates--are hang+ f /ems ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* ?ick done 9 h]r+-bone /it*1 ) ! exception ( ! violas 7plate #e7 :i* h a ?ick] /em ( _! own 9 h]r+-bone1 /em /it* & loops4 ,! ?i/les 7plate #c1 ,no4 #a7 reproduc$ ! same size z 9 ! "w1 7 scatt]$ ab\t 9 gr\ps ( ?ree1 mak+ a v pleas+ contra/ to ! hang+ roses 7plate #f71 :il/ ! irises re>$ _! heads all along ! bottom ( ! /rip1 b ow+ to ! "w hav+ be5 cut1 x 0 impossible to see h[ !y jo9$ _! /raight /alks to ! bran*+ ones above4 ,,plate #c ,no4 #a4 ,/em /it* cont\r3 diap] "w done 9 coral /it*1 ) a ,fr5* knot fill+ 9 ea* alt]nate squ>e4 ,f\r r[s ( buttonhole /it* at top ( fl[]4 ,no4 #b4 ,/em-/it*1 coral /it* & d>n+4 ,no4 #c4 ,buttonhole /it*1 ,fr5* knot & /em /it*4 ,no4 #d4 ,/em /it* & buttonhole /it*4 ,no4 #e4 ,coral /it*4 7,^! t5drils occurr$ all ov] ! "w & 7 v effective47 ,no4 #f4 ,buttonhole /it*3 c5tre & /alk 9 /em /it*4 ,no4 #g4 ,/em /it* & loops4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #c ,,plate #d ,! iris %[n "h 0 work$ z foll[s3 ,! cont\rs 9 /em /it* ?r\gh\t4 ,! c5tre & two side petals h /em /it* ve9s1 edg$ buttonhole /it* & 7 fill$ 9 ) big knots4 ,! small] petals 7 p>tially fill$ 9 ) buttonhole /it* & d>n+4 ,! d>k petal on left 0 done 9 ,cretan#c /it* edg$ /em /it*4 #c ,a v>iation ( h]r+ bone /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #d ,,plate #e ,no4 #a4 ,cont\r 9 /em /it*1 fill$ 9 lightly ) buttonhole /it*1 & d>n+ & long-&-%ort /it*4 ,no4 #b4 ,ditto1 ) ! addition ( h]r+-bone /it* on two upp] petals4 ,no4 #c4 7,/alk7 h]r+-bone /em /it* ) loops betwe54 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #e ,,plate #f ,no4 #a4 ,/em-/it*1 buttonhole /it* & d>n+4 ,no4 #b4 ,ditto4 ,no4 #c4 ,/em /it*1 buttonhole /it*1 ,fr5* knots & d>n+4 ,no4 #d4 ,/em /it*1 buttonhole /it* & d>n+4 ,all h h]r+-bone /it* /alks4 ,sket*$ f a piece ( "w 9 blue crewels on :ite l951 belong$ to ! late ,lady ,m>ia ,ponsonby4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #f ,,plate #g ,mo/ ( ! /it*]y %[n "h is simil> to t on ! prec$+ plates1 b has ! addition ( ! plait /it*#d edg$ ) buttonhole /it* 9 ! ve9s ( ! big leaf1 & ! close knots on ! %eaf ( ! foxgloves1 :ile ! %eaf ( ! convolvulus has ve9s ( /em /it* & small ,fr5* knots4 ,9 all ?is piece ( "w !re is to be not$ a great deal ( buttonhol+ & d>n+4 #d ,a v>iation ( h]r+-bone /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #g ,op4 ,,iv ,,plate #h ,%[s _m uses to :i* /em /it* c be put1 :i* is ! only /it* employ$ 9 ! "w illu/rat$ "h1 if we except ! little arr[-heads us$ to edge ! v9e leaf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #h ,! foll[+ sket*es 7 tak5 f a mo/ beautiful & elaborate /rip ( "w1 =m+ "p ( "s b$-hang+s1 dat$ ,a4,d4 #afif1 work$ 9 h>d twi/$ crewels 9 blue1 mignonette1 & gre5 col\r+s only4 ,,plate #i treats ( button-hole+ /it* done 9 a v>iety ( ways4 ,no4 #a has gr\ps ( ?ree button-hole /it*es & crosses 9 c5tre1 & is edg$ by *a9 /it* & arr[-heads4 ,no4 #b4 ,button-hole /it* c5tre & edge4 ,no4 #c4 ,button-hole /it* ) /alks 9 /em /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #i ,,plate #aj ,9 ?is sket* are ?ree pr9cipal /it*es1 viz43 ,*a9 /it* fill+ 9 spaces ,nos4 #a-b 7on left ( sket*7 & =m+ ! cont\r ( ! :ole leaf2 button-hole /it* fill+ spaces ,nos4 #c-d2 & a lace /it* fill+ spaces ,nos4 #e-f-g4 ,! o!r two spaces are fill$ by brick /it*1 & d>n+ ) little ve9s ( coral /it* & h]r+ bone4 ,!re are loop /it*es 9 ! c5tre ( ! ve9+ 9 spaces #f-g1 & ^! are also work$ r\nd ! outside ( ! leaf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aj ,,plate #aj;a ,?is leaf1 hav+ a cont\r ( *a9 /it*1 is fill$ 9 at ! top ) a br[n & blue bran* 9 /em /it*1 edg$ ) %ort-&-long /it*4 ,! gre5 turnov] is 9 *a9 /it* ) blue *a9 /it* ve9s1 & ! blue turnov]s at base ( leaf are done 9 a lace surface /it*1 :ile ! re/ is fill$ 9 ) small d>n+ /it*es1 coral /it*es & a little bit ( button-hole /it*+4 ,! ?ree c5tral leaves cross+ /em are 9 r$ & gre51 & blue & gre52 ! br[n /alks are work$ 9 /em /it*4 ,loops are work$ r\nd ! outside ( ! leaf "h z 9 all ! bigg] leaves on ?is "w4 ,! spike on ! left ( ! sket* is 9 h]r+ bone /it* edg$ ) arr[ heads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aj;a ,op4 ,v ,! foll[+ ?ree plates are sket*es f ! b$ hang+s 9 ! ,*apel room at ,h>dwicke ,hall1 ,d]by%ire--! prop]ty ( ! ,duke ( ,devon%ire4 ,,plate #aa ,%[s ! full design1 :i* is a repeat+ "o1 ( ! hang+s4 ,! details ( ! /it*]y w be f\nd on ! foll[+ plates4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aa ,,plate #ab ,no4 #a4 ,"o ( ! _m conv5tional foliations 9 ?is design1 c>ri$ out 9 /em /it*1 buttonhole & d>n+4 ,no4 #b4 ,close *a9 /it* = ! circles ) h]r+ bone = ! /alk runn+ ?r\gh !m4 ,no4 #c4 ,! same /em z 9 foxgloves b ) d>n+ introduc$ up ! c5tre4 ,no4 #d4 ,! %eafs ( ! foxgloves are work$ 9 cro*et /it* edg$ /em /it*4 ,! cont\rs ( fl[]s 9 back /it*1 fill$ 9 %ort-&-long /it*es & d>n+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ab ,,plate #ac ,no4 #a4 ,cont\r 9 *a9 /it*4 ,ve9 /em /it* edg$ two r[s %ort-&-long /it*es & d>n+4 ,no4 #b4 ,cont\r 9 d\ble *a9 /it*4 ,ve9s 9 knot /it* edg$ d>n+4 ,loops 9 middle ( c5tre ve94 ,no4 #c4 ,cont\r 9 /em /it*2 ve9 ditto1 edg$ ) two r[s ( %ort-&-long /it*es & d>n+4 ,no4 #d4 ,cont\r 9 *a9 /it*1 edg$ d>n+4 ,c5tre ve9 *a9 /it*4 ,bran*+ ve9s knot /it* outl9$ ) d>n+ /it*es4 ,no4 #e4 ,cont\r buttonhole /it* & d>n+4 ,ve9s knot /it* & d>n+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ac ,op4 ,va ,,plate #ad ,a gr\p ( fill+s 9 :i* d>n+ plays an important "p1 ! backgr\nds ( two ( ! leaves 7 c>ri$ out 9 indigo1 ! ve9+s 7 work$ 9 solid r[s ( outl9e /it* 9 br[n %ad+ to a light] bronze gre51 ! c5tral ve9 9 ! upp] leaf 0 9 *a9-/it* 9 d>k blue & ! outl9e ( leaf 0 c>ri$ out 9 two r[s ( *a9 /it*+ 9 d>ke/ indigo4 ,! %amrock leaf has a d>n$ cont\r ( d\ble ?reads1 ! fill+ 0 9 /em /it*1 solid1 ) b>s ( a d>k] col\r work$ across x4 ,! little b& at ! bottom ( ! gr\p 0 a mixture ( sat91 *a91 /em & ,fr5* knots4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ad ,op4 ,,vi ,! foll[+ sket* 0 done f b$ hang+s1 ! prop]ty ( ! ,e>l ( ,p[is1 at ,p[is ,ca/le4 ,,plate #ae ,! design is a bold "o ( big leaves work$ on ! usual ?ick :ite h&-made l954 ,und\bt$ly ! wools us$ 7 gre5 at ! "t ( work+1 b h n[ *ang$ to beautiful %ades ( blue to indigo4 ,ea* leaf ?r\gh\t ! "w has a ?ick cont\r 9 rope /it* ( ! f\r %ades ( ! wool us$1 & ! /em is mo/ effective1 done 9 squ>es ( ,cretan /it* 9 ! same f\r %ades4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ae ,op4 ,,vii ,,plate #af ,?is bold leaf is ma9ly c>ri$ out 9 block %ad+1 b ! col\rs are unusual4 ,indigo = ! outside edge1 s(t br[n ! c5tral block1 & light gre5 = ! inn]2 9 ! second leaf ! gre5 is employ$ only = ! l9e ( ve9+2 ! two leaves or sections on ! "r-h& side are treat$ z foll[s--,! upp] "o has outl9es ( br[n1 betwe5 :i* blocks ( buttonhole 9 indigo are work$1 ! int]v5+ spaces be+ simply decorat$ by a loop /it* 9 gre5 wool4 ,! sprays are 9 sat9 /it*1 :i* is "o ( ! be/ = small sprays to be work$ solid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #af ,,plate #ag ,a v h&some leaf1 9 ! work+ ( :i* _m /it*es are employ$4 ,! curv$ scroll at ! top is c>ri$ out 9 block %ad+ 9 blue to pale gre52 ! curv$ section on ! "r is m>k$ out 9 squ>es fill$ alt]nately ) sat9 /it*es1 ) a simple ,fr5* knot 9 ea* squ>e1 & by a squ>e trellis secur$ 9 ! c5tre by a cross /it*2 ! scroll bel[ ?is is outl9$ 9 crewel /it*1 & fill$ ) laid "w or /r&s ( wool ?r[n across f edge to edge & c\*$ by back /it*es at ! po9ts ( int]section4 ,! ?ree leaves at ! root ( ! /em are c>ri$ out 9 block %ad+ 9 %ades ( grey gre51 ! leaf above is outl9$ 9 crewel /it* & fill$ ) fancy devices work$ 9 buttonhole /it* ) d>n+ backgr\nd2 ! c5tre motive is a solid mass ( ,fr5* knots1 well rais$ & blue 9 col\r4 ,i h se5 ?is same motive c>ri$ out 9 ?ree %ades1 ! lighte/ gr\p at ! po9t1 ! d>ke/ at ! back4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ag ,,plate #ah ,m fill+s tak5 f a piece ( "w execut$ 9 ! late #ag? c5tury4 ,i ,is "o ( ! div]se me?ods ( treat+ ! l>ge tree /ems 9 a design4 ,)9 ! fan-l outl9es trac$ d[n on ! l95 is a solid fill+ ( sat9 /it*es1 v>y+ r[ by r[ f pale fawn at ! foot to d>k *e/nut br[n r\nd ! top1 ! direction ( ! /it*es is %ewn 9 ! draw+4 ,,ii ,"h we h a fancy lattice ( ?ree /r&s ( laid wool c\*$ ) small ,fr5* knots at ! int]sect+ po9ts1 ! outl9e is 9 /em /it* & fanciful back /it*es are us$ z fill+s4 ,,iii ,has fir/ r[s ( long s+le ?reads ?r[n across1 caught d[n ) />s & gr\ps ( sat9 /it*+ cross$4 ,,iv ,a light treatm5t = /ems1 ! fill+1 %ells 9 buttonhole /it*es1 ) second outl9e 9 d>n+4 ,v ,"o ( ! examples ( ! introduction ( lace /it*es t is to be not$ 9 "w ( ! late #ag? c5tury1 ! alt]nate blocks are 9 basket /it*1 ! o!rs 9 d\ble cross /it* 9 contra/+ col\rs4 ,,vi ,qua9t example ( c\*$ "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ah ,,plate #ai ,a collection ( p>ticul>ly beautiful fill+s se5 9 a ,georgian copy ( a v old example4 ,i ,has d\ble r[s ( outl9e /it*1 fram+ spaces fill$ ) />s 9 back /it*1 ! c5tre be+ solid 9 %ad+ /it*4 ,,ii ,outl9e ( rope /it* & cross trellis ( ! same4 ,/>s ( back /it* c\*$ d[n ) contra/+ wools4 ,,iii ,"p ( a beautiful /em1 outl9e ( *a9 b>s ( button /it* 9 d\ble wool & spots 9 loop /it*4 ,,iv ,! two small petals fill$ solid ) /em /it*1 ?ree r[s ( :i* are us$ = outl9+ ! long petal1 ! c5tre be+ fill$ ) r+s 9 buttonhole /it* & d>n$ backgr\nd4 ,v ,is c>ri$ out 9 sat9 & /em /it*1 ) back /it* b>s c\*$ ) contra/+ wool4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ai ,op4 ,,viii ,,plate #bj ,^! two sket*es 7 tak5 f an #ah? c5tury 787 curta9 done 9 solid crewel "w1 9 some:at bright col\r+4 ,! br[n ve9+ :i* occurs 9 ,i & 9 ne>ly all ! leaves 0 mo/ effective2 9 ?is plate is also %[n a good example ( basket /it* /em "w4 ,! acorn cup 0 work$ 9 close ,fr5* knots4 ,,ii ,! l>ge leaf is a good example ( solid "w4 ,! cont\r 0 9 /em /it*1 ! s]rat$ edges turn$ ov] on to ! br[n surface 7 9 %ad+ /it*1 ! r$ ve9+s 9 sat9 /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bj ,,plate #ba ,^! two leaves are ( a bold1 simple "* t is easy to sugge/1 & proves a great relief 9 a design t is some:at ov]-detail$4 ,! l>ge "o is c>ri$ out 9 br[ns & gre5s4 ,! turn$ ov] s]rat$ edge is 9 sat9 /it* ( graduat+ %ade4 ,! heavy ve9+ is some:at unusual 9 t x is c>ri$ out 9 laid /it*1 d>k gre5 9 ! c5tre & light gre5 outside4 ,! />s are work$ 9 d>k gre54 ,! outl9e to ! l[] leaf is 9 two %ades ( gre51 ! pale/ cont9u+ to outl9e ! rema9d] ( ! l>ge leaf4 ,! small leaf is work$ solid 9 %ad+ /it* 9 blue ) br[n sat9 /it* edge1 ! ve9+ is br[n z is also ! cont\r ( ! upp] po9t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ba ,,plate #bb ,we h "h a l>ge leaf v *>act]i/ic ( ! complicat$ detail introduc$ by ! conv5tional treatm5t ( foliage 9 e>ly ,engli% "w4 ,! curv$ po9t ( ! leaf is outl9$ 9 rope /it* 9 a d>k %ade ( s(t bronze gre51 ! heavy d\ble cross l9es are 9 crewel /it* & ( a light] %ade ( bronze 9 :i* ! squ>e lattice is also c>ri$ out1 ! ,fr5* knots 9 ! c5tres are ( a d>k olive gre54 ,! r\nd m$allion is outl9$ simil>ly to ! above b 9 d>k] %ade1 ! c5tre be+ work$ solid 9 slant+ sat9 /it*es set 9 r[s1 ea* r[ tak5 at ! opposite angle to its neighb\r2 ! next leaf is outl9$ inside1 9 two r[s ( *a91 ! turnov] ( ! leaf be+ solid sat9 /it* 9 ?ree %ades ( gre54 ,! /em is d\ble back /it*1 & ! o!r leaves are work$ solid 9 %ad+ /it* 9 graduat$ %ades ( gre54 ,! two small leaves1 ,i ,,ii example3 #a/1 rope /it* ) alt]nate fill+s ( d>n+ & outl9e /it*1 & #bnd1 r[s ( outl9e /it* = "o-half ! back leaves & "o-half grey knot /it* & blue snail trail 9 alt]native1 ! end leaf be+ 9 r[s ( outl9e ( br[n col\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bb ,,plate #bc ,a portion ( ! t]ra firma ( ! curta94 ,! /rawb]ries & cle> p>ts ( ! gr\nd are work$ 9 ,fr5* knots4 ,! plants are v useful 9 break+ up ! solid masses ( d>k col\r1 & ! /ag s]ves to introduce into ! base ( ! "w ! col\r+ ( ! acorns above 7on plates #a & #b74 ,z a rule ?is base ( a design repeats all ! col\r+s us$ ?r\gh\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bc ,,plate #bd ,example ( a bird introduc$ into ! late #ag? c5tury "w4 ,x is execut$ 9 simple fea!r /it* = ! tail fea!rs & sat9 /it* v ev5ly %ad$4 ,! d>k c5tres ( ! %ort fea!rs are 9 crimson1 ! re/ 9 %ades ( buff1 ! brea/ fea!rs also work$ 9 sat9 /it* are 9 putty col\r1 legs & beak are br[n & ! cre/ 9 crimson4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bd ,,plate #be ,qua9t e>ly example ( a p>rot1 head 9 knot /it*1 brea/ fea!rs block /it*1 & w+s 9 %ad$ s+le fea!r /it*+4 ,! butt]fly & grub are f\nd 9 all e>ly examples4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #be ,,plate #bf ,gr\p ( animals usually disport+ on ! t]ra-firma at base ( l>ge designs4 ,work$ always 9 long & %ort /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bf ,,plate #bg ,squirrel 9 ri* br[n col\r1 ) cream *e/ work$ 9 %ad+ /it*1 tail 9 ov]ca/+ = ! c5tre & furry "p 9 s+le fea!r /it* ) /em /it* outl9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bg ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,w4 ,w4 ,,curtis ,,ltd41 ,,*eylesmore ,,press1 ,,cov5try ,a ,,companion ,,volume ,,to ,,jacobean ,,embroid]y ,,engli% ,,secul> ,,embroid]y ,by ,m4 ,j\rda94 ,) ,fifty-sev5 ,illu/rations & a ,frontispiece 9 col\r4 ,clo?1 foolscap #dto1 #ajs4 #f;d4 net4 ,a really *>m+ book4--,pall ,mall ,gazette4 ,a gods5d to collectors ( antique ne$lework4--,sir ,james ,yoxall1 ,m4,p41 9 ,london ,op9ion4 ,! au?or treats ! subject 9 a fre% & /imulat+ mann]1 mak+ ! :ole book ?or\ghly enjoyable & in/ructive read+1 & consequ5tly ?is book1 com+ z x does at an opportune mom5t1 :5 art ne$lework %[s su* heal?y signs ( revival1 %\ld prove ( great int]e/ to collectors & ne$lework]s4 ,! book is replete ) a spl5did selection ( plates f orig9al pieces 9 ! possession ( _m em95t collectors4--,art ,*ronicle4 ,a delightful book on a delightful !me1 valuable alike to ! collector1 ! arti/-craftsman 7or woman71 & ! womanly woman 9 ! new or old-fa%ion$ s5se ( ! t]m4--,sunday ,*ronicle4 ,to ! lay read] :o has nev] h&l$ ne$le or bobb92 to ! g5]al read] :o reads = enjoym5t & has 9 consequ5ce "s nodd+ acqua9tance ) ,que5s l ,elizabe?1 ,m>y1 kn[n z bloody1 & ! o!r ,m>y :o is n kn[n at all2 to ?is g5]al read] su* a "w z ,miss ,j\rda9's may af=d a good deal ( ! leisurely enjoym5t t is s\ght 9 books4 ,he w make ! acqua9tance ( ,que5 ,elizabe?'s petticoat1 ( ! b$ hang+s t conceal$ or decorat$ ! slumb]s ( ! "o ,m>y or ! o!r4--,miss ,violet ,hunt 9 ! ,daily ,*ronicle4 ,kegan ,paul1 ,tr5*1 ,truebn] ,co41 ,limit$