,tradition & ,hi/ory1 ,alb]t ,r4 ,mann ,libr>y1 ,cornell ,univ]sity 7http3_/_/he>?4libr>y4cornell4edu_/7 file :i* includes ! orig9al illu/rations4 ,see #ahija-;h4htm or #ahija-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/h_ /i_/j_/ahija_/ahija-;h_/#ahija-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/dirs_/#a_/h_ /i_/j_/ahija_/ahija-;h4zip7 ,images ( ! orig9al pages are available ?r\gh ! ,home ,economics ,ar*ive3 ,rese>*1 ,tradition & ,hi/ory1 ,alb]t ,r4 ,mann ,libr>y1 ,cornell ,univ]sity4 ,see http3_/_/he>?4libr>y4cornell4edu_/cgi_/t _/text_/text-idx8che>?2idno#dbbageh ,,woman ,,z ,,decoration by ,,emily ,,burbank ,illu/rat$ ,illu/ration ,new ,york ,dodd1 ,mead & ,company #aiag ,copyright1 #aiag ,by ,dodd1 ,mead & ,company1 ,inc4 ,,d$icat$ ,,to ,v4 ,b4 ,g4 ,,plate ,i ,madame ,g]ald9e ,f>r> z ,?ais 9 ! op]a ( t "n4 ,x is a sket* made f life = ?is book4 ,obs]ve ! gild$ wig & ri*ly embroid]$ g[n4 ,!y are aft] descriptions ( a co/ume worn by ! real ,?ais4 ,x is a ,greek type ( co/ume b n ! famili> classic ,greek ( sculptur$ /ory4 ,?ais 0 a reign+ beauty & act$ 9 ! !atre ( ,alex&ria 9 ! e>ly ,*ri/ian era4 ,illu/ration3 ,sket*$ = ,woman z ,decoration by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,mme4 ,g]ald9e ,f>r> 9 ,greek ,co/ume z ,?ais ,,=eword ,,woman ,,z ,,decoration is int5d$ z a sequel to ,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration 7,grace ,wood & ,emily ,burbank74 ,hav+ assi/$ 9 sett+ ! /age = woman1 ! next logical /ep is ! consid]ation ( woman1 h]self1 z an important factor 9 ! decorative s*eme ( any sett+1--! vital sp>k to animate all int]ior decoration1 private or public4 ,! book 9 h& is int5d$ z a brief guide = ! woman :o w\ld und]/& h] own type1--make ! mo/ ( x1 & "k h[ simple a matt] x is to be decorative if %e w b ma/] ! few rules und]ly+ all successful dress+4 ,z ! co/um+ ( woman is an art1 ! hi/ory ( t art mu/ be kn[n--to a c]ta9 ext5t--by "o :o w\ld be an intellig5t /ud5t ( our subject4 ,) ! assi/ance ( ?irty-?ree illu/rations to ?r[ light ^u ! text1 we h tri$ to tell ! beguil+ /ory ( decorative woman1 z %e appe>s 9 frescoes & bas reliefs ( ,anci5t ,egypt1 on ,greek vases1 ! ,go?ic woman 9 tape/ry & /a9$ glass1 woman 9 pa9t+1 /ucco & tape/ry ( ! ,r5aissance1 sev5te5?1 eighte5? & n9ete5? c5tury woman 9 portraits4 ,contempor>y woman's co/ume is consid]$1 n z fa%ion1 b z decorative l9e & col\r1 a di/9ct contribution to ! int]ior decoration ( h] own home or o!r sett+4 ,9 ?is dep>tm5t1 woman is giv5 sugge/ions z to ! co/um+ ( h]self1 beautifully & appropriately1 9 ! ball-room1 at ! op]a1 9 h] b\doir1 sun-room or on h] %ad$ por*2 9 h] g>d52 :5 driv+ h] own c>2 by ! sea1 or on ! ice4 ,woman z ,decoration has be5 plann$1 9 "p1 also to fill a ne$ v g5]ally express$ = a h&book to s]ve z guide = beg9n]s 9 gett+ up co/umes = fancy-dress balls1 amateur !atricals1 or ! pr(essional /age4 ,we h tri$ to %$ light ^u p]iod co/umes & po9t out ways ( mak+ any co/ume effective4 ,co/ume books ab\nd1 b s f> z we "k1 ?is is ! fir/ attempt to conf9e ! va/ & p]plex+ subject )9 ! dim5sions ( a small1 accessible volume devot$ to ! pr9ciples und]ly+ ! plann+ ( all co/umes1 reg>dless ( p]iod4 ,! au?or does n advocate ! pre5+ ( h] fea!rs z woman's sole occupation1 9 any age1 mu* less at ?is crisis 9 ! mak+ ( _w hi/ory2 b %e does lay great emphasis on ! fact t a woman owes x to h]self1 h] family & ! public 9 g5]al1 to be z decorative 9 any sett+1 z h] k ( ! art ( dress+ admits4 ,?is k implies an und]/&+ ( l9e1 col\r1 fitness1 backgr\nd1 & above all1 "o's own type4 ,to "k "o's type1 & to h "s k ( ! pr9ciples und]ly+ all good dress+1 is ( s]i\s economic value2 x means a sav+ ( "t1 vitality & money4 ,! wat*word ( to-day is effici5cy1 & ! keynote to mod]n co/um+1 appropriat5ess4 ,& s ! _s ( ! "t records itself 9 ! int]e/+ & *>m+ subdivision ( woman's attire4 ,"o may foll[ ,woman ,decorative 9 ! ,ori5t on vase1 fan1 scre5 & kakemono2 z %e /ruts 9 ! /iff mann] ( ,egyptian bas reliefs1 across walls ( anci5t ru9s1 or sits 9 angul> s]5ity1 gaz+ into ! future ?r\gh ! n>r[ slits ( ,egyptian eyes1 oblivi\s ( "t2 woman1 beautiful 9 ! ,european s5se1 & decorative to ! sup]lative degree1 on ,greek vase & sculptur$ wall4 ,"h 9 rhy?mic curves1 %e d&les lovely ,cupid on h] toe2 s]ves z ve/al virg9 at a woodl& %r9e2 we>s ! bronze helmet ( ,m9]va2 makes laws1 or z ,p5elope1 ! wife1 we>ily awaits h] rov+ "l4 ,%e moves 9 augu/ maje/y1 a sore-tri$ que51 & leaps 9 m]ry laught] z a c>e-free slave2 pipes1 s+s & plies ! di/aff4 ,saunt]+ on1 d[n ?r\gh ,go?ic ,europe1 ,tudor ,engl&1 ! adolesc5t ,r5aissance1 ,b\rbon ,france1 into ! picturesque *anges ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 we ask1 c "o possibly escape our !me--,woman z ,decoration8 ,no1 = %e is c>v$ 9 wood & /one2 z ,"m ( ,god & ,que5 ( ,heav5 gleams 9 ! jewel$ w9d[s ( ! *ur*1 looks d[n 9 placid s]5ity on light$ alt>2 is wov5 9 tape/ry1 9 fact dom9ates all art1 pa9t+1 /ucco or m>ble1 ?r\gh\t ! ages4 ,if "o w\ld "k ! /ory ( ,woman's evolution & retrogression--t ris+ & fall+ tide 9 civilisation--we comm5d a /udy ( h] z %e is pres5t$ 9 ,art4 ,a k ( h] co/ume frequ5tly ?r[s light ^u h] age2 a ?or\gh k ( h] age w ?r[ light ^u h] co/ume4 ,a /udy ( ! ess5tials ( any co/ume1 ( any p]iod1 tra9s ! eye & m9d to be exp]t 9 plann+ co/umes = e-day use4 ,"o le>ns quickly to discrim9ate betwe5 details :i* are ornam5ts1 because !y h mean+1 & ^? :i* are only illit]ate sup]fluities2 & "o le>ns to ma/] _m o!r po9ts4 ,x is n )9 ! prov9ce ( ?is book to dwell at l5g? ^u national co/ume1 b r to foll[ co/ume z x develop$ ) & reflect$ ca/e1 aft] human society ceas$ to be all alike z to occupation1 div]sion & int]e/4 ,9 ! _w ( ca/e1 co/ume has gradually evolv$ until x aims ?r\gh appropriat5ess1 at assi/+ woman to fulfil h] role4 ,) peasants :o "k only ! traditional co/ume ( _! prov9ce1 ! task mu/ (t5 be done 9 spite ( ! co/ume1 :i* is picturesque or grotesque1 inconv5i5t1 ev5 impossible2 b long may x l+] to div]t ! eye6 ,russia1 ,g]many1 ,france1 ,spa91 ,italy1 ,pol&1 ,sc&9avia1--all h an endless v>iety ( co/umes1 ri* 9 s\v5irs ( folk hi/ory1 ra9b[s ( col\r & biz>re 9 l9e1 b x is co/um+ ! woman ( fa%ion :i* claims our att5tion4 ,! succe$+ *apt]s w treat ( woman1 ! vital sp>k :i* gives mean+ to any sett+--indoors1 out ( doors1 at ! op]a1 9 ! ball-room1 on ! ice--:]e y w4 ,ea* *apt] has to d ) mod]n woman & ! hi/orical p>agraphs are giv5 prim>ily to %$ light ^u h] co/ume4 ,x is %[n t woman's decorative appe>ance affects h] psy*ology1 & t woman's psy*ology affects h] decorative appe>ance4 ,"s *apt]s may1 at fir/ glance1 seem irrelevant1 b ^? :o h s]i\sly /udi$ any art1 & !n und]tak5 to tell its /ory briefly 9 simple1 direct language1 ) ! hope ( quickly putt+ audi5ce or read] 9 t\* ) ! vital l9ks 9 ! *a9 ( evid5ce1 w und]/& ! au?or's claim t no det\r :i* illu/rates ! subject c 9 ju/ice be t]m$ irrelevant4 ,9 ! det\rs (t5 lie invaluable data1 = "o ) a m9d = rese>*--:e!r au?or or read]4 ,?is is especially true 9 connection ) our pres5t task1 :i* involves unravell+ "s ( ! ?reads f ! tangl$ ske9 ( religion1 danc+1 music1 sculpture & pa9t+--t mass ( bright & sombre col\r1 ( gold & silv] ?reads1 /rung ) pe>ls & glitt]+ gems /rangely brok5 by age--:i* tells ! epic-lyric tale ( civilisation4 ,:ile we /ate t x is n our aim to make a po9t ( fa%ion z su*1 "s ( our illu/rations %[ contempor>y woman z %e appe>s 9 our homes1 on our /reets1 at ! play1 9 h] g>d51 etc4 ,we h tak5 examples ( wom5's co/umes :i* are pre-em95tly *>act]i/ic ( ! mom5t 9 :i* we write1 & z we believe1 illu/rate ^? laws ^u :i* we base our d$uctions conc]n+ woman z decoration4 ,^! laws are3 appropriat5ess ( h] co/ume to ! occasion2 consid]ation ( ! type ( we>]2 backgr\nd aga9/ :i* co/ume is to be worn2 & all decoration 7:i* includes jewels71 z detail ) raison d'etre4 ,! body %\ld be c>ri$ ) =m 79 ! sport+ s5se71 to assi/ 9 giv+ l9e to ! co/ume4 ,! *ic woman is ! "o :o und]/&s ! art ( elim9ation 9 co/umes4 ,we> y\r co/umes ) conviction--by :i* we mean decide :at picture y w make ( y\rself1 make x & !n enjoy x6 ,x is only by lett+ y\r p]sonality animate y\r co/ume t y make y\rself sup]ior to ! lay figure or ! sawdu/ doll4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,,=eword xi ,i ,a ,,few ,,h9ts ,,= ,,! ,,novice ,,:o ,,w\ld ,,plan ,,h] ,,co/umes #a ,rules hav+ economic value :ile aim+ at decorativ5ess4--,l9es & col\r+ emphasis$ or modifi$ by co/um+4--,temp]am5ts affect c>riage ( ! body4--,l9e ( body affects co/ume4--,te*nique ( controll+ ! physique4--,! highly s5sitis$ woman4--,co/um+ an art4--,/udy+ types4--,/>r+ "o's own good po9ts4--,beauty n s fleet+ z is suppos$ if co/ume is adapt$ to its *ang+ aspects4--,ma/]s 9 art ( co/um+ (t5 discov] & /> previ\sly unrecognis$ beauty4--,e/abli%+ ! habit ( ^? l9es & col\rs 9 g[ns1 hats1 gloves1 p>asols1 /icks1 fans & jewels :i* are y\r own4--,! intellig5t pur*as]4--,! be/ dress$ wom54--,value ( und]/&+ "o's backgr\nd4--,le>n+ ! art ( und]/&+ "o's backgr\nd4--,le>n+ ! art ( co/um+ f ma/]s ( ! art4--,h[ to proce$ ) ?is /udy4--,successful co/um+ n dep5d5t ^u am\nt ( money sp5t ^u x4--,an example ,,ii ,,! ,,laws ,,und]ly+ ,,all ,,co/um+ ,,( ,,woman #bc ,appropriat5ess keynote ( co/um+ to-day4--,five sali5t po9ts to be borne 9 m9d :5 plann+ a co/ume4--,:]e ,engli%1 ,fr5*1 & ,am]ican wom5 excel 9 art ( co/um+4--,feel+ = l9e4--,to make our po9ts cle> con/ant ref]5ce to ! /age is necess>y4--,bak/ & ,poiret4--,turn+ to ! ,ori5t = l9e & col\r4--,keep+ co/ume 9 same key z its sett+s4--,h[ to "k y\r p]iod2 its l9e1 col\rs & *>act]i/ic details4--,/udy+ co/umes 9 ,go?ic illum9ations ,,iii ,,h[ ,,to ,,dress ,,y\r ,,type #df ,a ,,few ,,po9ts ,,apply+ ,,to ,,all ,,co/umes4--,backgr\nd4--,l9e & col\r ( co/umes to br+ out ! individuality ( we>]4--,! *ic woman def9$4--,intellig5t express+ ( self 9 mise-en-sc5e4--,select+ "o's col\r s*eme ,,iv ,,! ,,psy*ology ,,( ,,clo!s #ed ,effect ( clo!s ^u mann]s4--,! natural in/9ct = co/um+1 clo!s s5se4--,co/um+ affect+ psy*ology ( we>]4--,clo!s may lib]ate or %ackle ! _s ( wom51 be a tyrant or magician's w&4--,foll[ col\r in/9ct 9 clo!s z well z h\sefurni%+s ,v ,,e/abli% ,,habits ,,( ,,c>riage ,,:i* ,,create ,,good ,,l9e #ff ,woman's l9e result ( habits ( a m9d controll$ by obs]vations1 conv5tions1 exp]i5ces & attitudes :i* make h] p]sonality4--,tra9+ l9es ( physique f *ildhood2 an example4--,a k ( h[ to dress appropriately leads to effici5cy ,,vi ,,col\r ,,9 ,,woman',s ,,co/ume #gd ,col\r hall-m>k ( to-day4--,bak/1 ,rhe9h>dt & ,granville ,b>k]1 tea*]s ( ! new col\r vocabul>y4--,,portable ,,backgr\nds ,,vii ,,footwe> #he ,importance ( c>efully consid]+ extremities4--,:at con/itutes a co/ume4--,importance ( le>n+ h[ to buy1 put on & we> ea* detail ( co/ume if "o w\ld be a decorative picture4--,spats4--,/ock+s4--,slipp]s4-- ,buckles ,,viii ,,jewelry ,,z ,,decoration #id ,consid]$ z col\r & l9e n ) reg>d to intr9sic wor?4--,to complete a co/ume or furni% keynote ^u :i* to build a co/ume4--,di/+ui%$ jewels ) hi/oric associations worn arti/ically2 examples4--,"k :at jewels are y\r affair z to col\r1 size1 & %ape4--,to "k :at "o c & _c we> 9 all dep>tm5ts ( co/um+ prep>es "o to grasp & make use ( exp]t sugge/ions4 ,h[ fa%ions come into be+4--,"o ( ! rules z to h[ jewels %\ld be worn4--,gems & pa/e ,,ix ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,b\doir #aaa ,negligee or tea-g[n belongs to ?is intimate sett+4--,=tuny ! arti/ design] ( tea-g[ns4--,sibyl ,s&]son4--,! decorative value ( a long /r+ ( beads4--,beauty :i* is ! result ( consci\s ef=t4--,bi5 so9e a hall-m>k ( our p]iod ,x ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,sun-,,room #aaf ,s9ce a w9t] sun-room is plann$ to give ! illusion ( summ]1 "o's co/um+ = x %\ld c>ry out ! same idea4--,! sun-room provides a means = us+ up la/ summ]'s co/umes4--,! hat1 if worn1 %\ld sugge/ repose1 n action4--,! age & habits ( ^? occupy+ a sun-room dictate ! exact type ( co/ume to be worn4--,col\r s*eme ,,xi ,i4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,g>d5 #abd ,9 ! g>d5 ! co/ume %\ld h a decorative outl9e b simple col\r s*eme :i* h>monises ) backgr\nd ( fl[]s4--,:ite1 grey1 or "o note ( col\r pref]able4--,! fl[]s furni% v>iety & col\r4--,lady de ,ba! 7,mrs4 ,langtry7 9 h] g>d5 at ,newm>ket1 ,engl& ,,ii4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,on ,,! ,,lawn ,"o may be a fl[] or a bun* ( fl[]s = col\r aga9/ ! unbrok5 sweep ( gre5 und]foot & backgr\nd ( %rubs & trees4--,*ic outl9e & int]e/+ detail1 z well z col\r1 ( di/9ct value 9 a co/ume = lawn4--,h[ to cultivate an un]r+ in/9ct = :at is a successful co/ume = any giv5 occasion ,,iii4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,on ,,! ,,bea* ,if "o w\ld be a contribution to ! picture1 figure z :ite or vivid col\r on bea*1 deck ( /eam] or ya*t ,,xii ,,woman ,,z ,,decoration ,,:5 ,,skat+ #acd ,l9e ( ! body all important4--,! necessity ( ma/]+ =m to ga9 effici5cy 9 any l9e2 examples4--,! traditional skat+ co/ume has ! lead ,,xiii ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,motor ,,c> #ade ,! col\r ( "o's c> inside & out important factor 9 effect produc$ by "o's c>efully *os5 co/ume ,,xiv ,,h[ ,,to ,,g ,,ab\t ,,plann+ ,a ,,p]iod ,,co/ume #aed ,p]iod4--,backgr\nd4--,outl9e4--,mat]ial s4--,col\r s*eme4--,detail ) mean+4--,au?orities4--,consult+ portraits by great ma/]s4--,g]ald9e ,f>r>4--,di/+ui%$ collection ( co/ume plates4--,"o result ( plann+ p]iod co/umes is ! op5+ up ( vi/as 9 hi/ory4--,e detail ( a p]iod co/ume has its fasc9at+ /ory wor? ! kn[+4--,brief hi/oric outl9e to s]ve z key to ! ri* /oreh\se ( important volumes on co/umes & ! di/+ui%$ textless books ( co/ume plates4--,p]iod ( fa%ions 9 co/umes develop+ )\t nationality4--,nationality decl>$ 9 arti/ry ( workman%ip & ! modification or exagg]ation ( an ess5tial detail accord+ to national or individual temp]am5t4--,evolution ( woman's co/ume4--,assyria4--,egypt4--,byzantium4 -- ,greece4--,rome4--,go?ic ,europe4--,europe ( ! ,r5aissance1--sev5te5?1 eighte5? & n9ete5? c5tury ?r\gh ,mid-,victorian p]iod4--,cord ti$ ab\t wai/ orig9 ( co/umes = wom5 & m5 ,,xv ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,p]iod ,,co/umes #agb ,a ,,resume4 ,woman z se5 9 ,egyptian sculpture-relief2 on ,greek vase2 9 ,go?ic /a9$ glass2 c>v$ /one2 tape/ry2 /ucco2 & pa9t+ ( ! ,r5aissance2 eighte5? & n9ete5? c5tury portraits4--,art ?r\gh\t ! ages reflects woman 9 e role2 z companion1 rul]1 slave1 sa9t1 play?+1 tea*]1 & volunt>y work]4--,evolution ( outl9e ( woman's co/ume1 includ+ *ange 9 neck2 %\ld]2 evolution ( sleeve2 girdle2 hair2 head-dress2 wai/ l9e2 petticoat4--,gradual disappe>ance ( long1 fl[+ l9es *>act]i/ic ( ,greek & ,go?ic p]iods4--,demoralisation ( ,nature's %\ld] & hip-l9e culm9ates 9 ! ,velasquez edition ( ,spani% fa%ion & ! ,m>ie ,anto9ette extravaganzas ,,xvi ,,developm5t ,,( ,,go?ic ,,co/ume #aib ,go?ic outl9e fir/ se5 z e>ly z f\r? c5tury4--,co/ume ( ,roman-,*ri/ian wom54--,n9? c5tury4--,! ,go?ic cape ( twelf?1 ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies made famili> on ! ,virg9 & sa9ts 9 sacr$ art4--,! tunic4--,re/ra9t 9 l9e1 col\r1 & detail gradually disappe> ) increas$ circulation ( weal? until 9 fifte5? c5tury we see humanity ov]-weight$ ) ri* brocades1 laces1 massive jewels1 etc4 ,,! ,,virg9 ,,9 ,,art ,late ,middle ,ages4--,sov]eignty ( ! ,virg9 z expla9$ 9 ,! ,ca!drals ( ,mont ,/4 ,mi*el & ,*>tres1 by ,h5ry ,adams4--,woman z ! ,virg9 dom9ates art ( twelf?1 ?irte5?1 & f\rte5? c5turies4--,! girdle4--,! r\nd neck4--,! necklace1 etc4 ,,xvii ,,! ,,r5aissance #bad ,,sixte5? ,,& ,,sev5te5? ,,c5turies ,po9t$ & o!r head-dresses ) float+ veils4--,neck l[ (f %\ld]s4--,skirts "p z wai/-l9e ov] petticoat4--,weal? ( ,roman ,empire ?r\gh new trade *annels _h l$ to importation ( ri*ly col\r$ ,ori5tal /uffs4--,same weal? l$ to e/abli%+ looms 9 ,europe4--,clo!s ( man l 8 ov]-ornate furniture %[ debau*$ & vulg> ta/e4--,! good ,go?ic l9es live on 9 co/umes ( nuns & prie/s4--,! ,davanzati ,palace collection1 ,flor5ce1 ,italy4--,long po9t$ %oes ( ! ,middle ,ages give way to broad squ>e ones4--,gorge\s mat]ials4--,hats4--,hair4--,sleeves4-- ,skirts4--,cr9ol9es4--,coats4--,ov]skirt s drap$ to develop into panni]s ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette's "t4--,directoire reaction to simple l9es & mat]ials ,,xvii ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury #bcc ,political upheavals4--,sci5tific discov]ies4--,me*anical inv5tions4--,*emical a*ievem5ts4--,*9tz or /amp$ l95s ( ,j\y ne> ,v]sailles4--,pa9t$ wall-pap]s aft] ! ,*9ese4--,simplicity 9 co/um+ ( woman & man ,,xix ,,woman ,,9 ,,! ,,victorian ,,p]iod #bda ,fir/ sev5ty ye>s ( n9ete5? c5tury4--,hi/oric ,dress 9 ,am]ica by ,elizabe? ,mc,clellan4--,hoops1 wigs1 absurdly furbi%$ head-dresses1 pap]-sol$ %oes1 bonnets enorm\s1 laces ( cobweb1 %awls f ,india1 r\ge & hair-grease1 pat*es & p[d]1 lac$ wai/s1 & vap\rs4--,man /ill decorative ,,xx ,,sex ,,9 ,,co/um+ #bdd ,european dress4--,prog5itor ( co/ume worn by mod]n m54--,! "t :5 no di/9ction 0 made betwe5 mat]ials us$ = man & woman4--,velvets1 silks1 sat9s1 laces1 elaborate cuffs & coll>s1 embroid]y1 jewels & plumes z mu* 8 z h]s ,,xxi ,,l9e ,,& ,,col\r ,,( ,,co/umes ,,9 ,,hung>y #beb ,9 a s5se col\r a sign ( virility4--,examples4--,/udy+ l9e & col\r 9 ,magy> ,l&4--,9 ,krakau1 ,pol&1--,a highly decorative ,poli% peasant & h] sett+ ,,xxii ,,/udy+ ,,l9e ,,& ,,col\r ,,9 ,,russia #bfe ,kiev our headqu>t]s4--,slav temp]am5t an integral "p ( ,russian nature express$ 9 co/um+ z well z folk songs & dances ( ! p4--,russian woman ( ! fa%ionable _w4--,! ,russian pilgrims z we saw !m tramp+ ov] ! froz5 roads to ! %r9es ( ,kiev1 ! ,holy ,city & anci5t capital ( ,russia at ! close ( ! ,l5t5 season4--,_! co/umes & _! psy*ology ,,xxiii ,,m>k ,,twa9',s ,,love ,,( ,,col\r ,,9 ,,all ,,co/um+ #bgf ,wrapp$ 9 a crimson silk dress+-g[n on a balcony ( 8 ,italian villa 9 ,connecticut1 ,m>k ,twa9 dilat$ on ! value ( brilliant col\r 9 man's co/um+4--,8 creative1 pictur+-mak+ m9d 9 action4--,o!r !mes foll[$ ,,xxiv ,,! ,,arti/ ,,& ,,8 ,,co/ume #bhc ,a ,god-giv5 s5se ( ! beautiful4--,! arti/ nature has always assum$ poetic lic5se 9 ! matt] ( dress4--,_m s-call$ affectations h raison d'etre4--,respond+ to texture1 col\r & l9e z "s d to music & sc5]y4--,h[ ,japanese actors tra9 !mselves to act wom5's p>ts by we>+ woman's co/umes (f ! /age4--,?is cultivates ! requir$ feel+ = ! co/umes4--,! woman devotee to sports :5 co/um$4--,ri*>d ,wagn]'s responsiv5ess to col\r & texture4--,clyde ,fit*'s s5sitiv5ess to ! same4--,! we>+ ( jewels by m54--,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii4--,a rem>kable topaz worn by a ,spani>d4--,its undo+ z a decorative object ?r\gh its resett+ ,,xxv ,,idiosyncrasies ,,9 ,,co/ume #bib ,fa%ions 9 dress all p[]ful because !y seize ^u ! public m9d4--,!y become ! symbol ( mann]s & affect human psy*ology4--,affectations ( ! y\? ( ,a!ns4--,les ,m]veilleux1 ,les ,encroyables1 ! ,illum9ati4--,s*ill] dur+ ! ,/orm & ,/ress ,p]iod4--,v5etian belles ( ! sixte5? c5tury4--,! ,cavali] ,s]v5te ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4--,mme4 ,recami] sc&alis$ ,london 9 eighte5? c5tury by appe>+ co/um$ a la ,greque4--,mme4 ,j]ome ,bonap>te1 a ,baltimore belle1 foll[$ suit 9 ,philadelphia4--,h\r-glass wai/-l9e & att5dant vap\rs 7 ?\ght to be 9 ! role ( a high-born ,victorian miss4--,appropriat5ess ! contribution ( our day to ! /ory ( woman's co/um+ ,,xxvi ,,nationality ,,9 ,,co/ume #bif ,:5 se5 ) p]spective ! co/umes ( v>i\s p]iods appe> z di/9ct types ?\gh to ! man or woman ( any p>ticul> p]iod ! v>iations ( ! type are bewild]+ & mislead+4--,hav+ foll[$ ! evolution ( ! co/ume ( woman ( fa%ion :i* comes "u ! g5]al head ( ,european dress1 be=e clos+ we turn to q ano!r field1 t ( national co/umes4--,progress levels national diff]5ces1 !re=e ! /ud5t mu/ make ! mo/ ( opportunities to obs]ve4--,exp]i5ces 9 ,hung>y ,,xxvii ,,models #cjf ,hi/orical int]e/ atta*es to fa%ions 9 woman's co/um+4--,"o ( ! missions ( art is to make subtle ! obvi\s4--,examples z se5 9 #aiag ,,xxviii ,,woman ,,co/um$ ,,= ,,h] ,,w> ,,job #cac ,! ,pageant ( ,life %[s t woman has play$ opposite man ) consi/5cy & success ?r\gh\t ! ages4--,apropos ( ?is1 we quote f ,philadelphia ,public ,l$g]1 = ,m>* #be1 #aiag1 an impression ( a woman ( to-day co/um$ appropriately to get effici5cy 9 h] w> "w ,,9 ,,conclusion #cbd ,a brief review ( ! *ief po9ts to be kept 9 m9d by ^? int]e/$ 9 ! co/um+ ( woman s t %e figures z a decorative contribution to any sett+ ,,illu/rations ,i ,,mme4 ,,g]ald9e ,,f>r> ,,9 ,,greek ,,co/ume ,,z ,,?ais 7,,frontispiece7 vi ,sket*$ by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,,ii ,,woman ,,9 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,sculpture-,,relief #i ,,iii ,,woman ,,9 ,,greek ,,art #ai ,,iv ,,woman ,,on ,,greek ,,vase #bi ,v ,,woman ,,9 ,,go?ic ,,art #ci ,portrait ,%[+ ,po9t$ ,head-dress ,,vi ,,woman ,,9 ,,art ,,( ,,! ,,r5aissance #di ,sculpture-relief 9 ,t]ra-cotta3 ,! ,virg9 ,,vii ,,woman ,,9 ,,art ,,( ,,! ,,r5aissance #ei ,sculpture-relief 9 ,t]ra-cotta3 ,holy ,wom5 ,,viii ,,tudor ,,engl& #fi ,portrait ( ,que5 ,elizabe? ,,ix ,,spa9--,,velasquez ,,portrait #gi ,x ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,,engl& #hi ,portrait by ,?omas ,ga9sbor\gh ,,xi ,,b\rbon ,,france #ii ,portrait ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette by ,madame ,vigee ,le ,brun ,,xii ,,co/ume ,,( ,,empire ,,p]iod #aji ,an ,engli% ,portrait ,,xiii ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,,co/ume #aai ,portrait by ,gilb]t ,/u>t ,,xiv ,,victorian ,,p]iod 7,,ab\t #ahdj7 #abi ,mme4 ,adel9e ,g5ee 9 ,co/ume ,,xv ,,late ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury 7,,ab\t #ahij7 #aci ,a ,portrait by ,john ,s4 ,s>g5t ,,xvi ,a ,,mod]n ,,portrait #adi ,by ,john ,w4 ,alex&] ,,xvii ,a ,,portrait ,,( ,,mrs4 ,,philip ,m4 ,,lydig #aei ,by ,i4 ,zuloaga ,,xviii ,,mrs4 ,,langtry 7,,lady ,,de ,,ba!7 ,,9 ,,ev5+ ,,wrap #afi ,,xix ,,mrs4 ,,conde ,,na/ ,,9 ,,/reet ,,dress #agi ,photograph by ,b>on de ,mey] ,,xx ,,mrs4 ,,conde ,,na/ ,,9 ,,ev5+ ,,dress #ahi ,,xxi ,,mrs4 ,,conde ,,na/ ,,9 ,,g>d5 ,,co/ume #aii ,,xxii ,,mrs4 ,,conde ,,na/ ,,9 ,,=tuny ,,tea ,,g[n #bji ,,xxiii ,,mrs4 ,,v]non ,,ca/le ,,9 ,,ball ,,co/ume #bai ,,xxiv ,,mrs4 ,,v]non ,,ca/le ,,9 ,,aft]noon ,,co/ume--,,w9t] #bbi ,,xxv ,,mrs4 ,,v]non ,,ca/le ,,9 ,,aft]noon ,,co/ume--,,summ] #bci ,,xxvi ,,mrs4 ,,v]non ,,ca/le ,,co/um$ ,a ,,la ,,gu]re ,,= ,a ,,walk #bdi ,,xxvii ,,mrs4 ,,v]non ,,ca/le--,a ,,fantasy #bei ,,xxviii ,,mod]n ,,skat+ ,,co/ume--#aiag #bfi ,w9n] ( ,amateur ,*ampion%ip ( ,fancy ,skat+ ,,xxix ,a ,,mod]n ,,silh\ette--#aiag #bgi ,,tailor-,,made ,drawn f ,life by ,elisabe? ,se>cy ,,xxx ,,tappe',s ,,creations #bhi ,sket*$ = ,woman z ,decoration by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,,xxxi ,,miss ,,elsie ,,de ,,wolfe ,,9 ,,co/ume ,,( ,,r$ ,,cross ,,nurse #bii ,,xxxii ,,mme4 ,,g]ald9e ,,f>r> ,,9 ,,spani% ,,co/ume ,,z ,,c>m5 #cji ,f ,photograph by ,c\rtesy ( ,vanity ,fair ,,xxxiii ,,mme4 ,,g]ald9e ,,f>r> ,,9 ,,japanese ,,co/ume ,,z ,,madame ,,butt]fly #cai ,sket*$ by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,! ,communion ( m5 ^u e>? abhors id5tity m ?an nature does a vacuum4 ,no?+ s %ocks & repels ! liv+ s\l z a r[ ( exactly simil> ?+s1 :e!r x consi/s ( mod]n h\ses or ( mod]n p1 & no?+ s delights & edifies z di/9ction4 ,,cov5try ,,patmore4 ,:atev] piece ( dress conceals a woman's figure1 is b\nd1 9 ju/ice1 to d s 9 a picturesque way4 ,f an ,e>ly ,victorian ,fa%ion ,pap]4 ,:5 0 t 'simple "t ( our fa!rs' :5 p 7 too s5sible to c>e = fa%ions8 ,x c]ta9ly 0 be=e ! ,ph>aohs1 & p]haps be=e ! ,glacial ,epo*4 ,w4 ,g4 ,,sumn]1 9 ,folkways4 ,,*apt] ,i ,a ,,few ,,h9ts ,,= ,,! ,,novice ,,:o ,,w\ld ,,plan ,,h] ,,co/umes ,!re are a few rules ) reg>d to ! co/um+ ( woman :i* if und]/ood put "o a long way on ! road t[>d t desirable goal--decorativ5ess1 & h economic value z well4 ,!y are simple rules d$uc$ by ^? :o h made a /udy ( woman's l9es & col\r+1 & h[ to emphasise or modify !m by dress4 ,temp]am5ts are s]i\sly consid]$ by exp]ts 9 ?is art1 = ! c>riage ( a woman & h] mann] ( we>+ h] clo!s dep5ds 9 "p ^u h] temp]am5t4 ,"s wom5 in/9ctively feel l9e & are graceful 9 consequ5ce1 z we h said1 b :]e "o is n born ) ?is in/9ct1 x is possible to become s ?or\ghly s*ool$ 9 ! te*nique ( controll+ ! physique--poise ( ! body1 c>riage ( ! head1 movem5t ( ! limbs1 use ( feet & h&s1 t a s5se ( l9e is acquir$4 ,/udy portraits by great ma/]s1 ! movem5ts ( ^? on ! /age1 ! c>riage & positions natural to graceful wom54 ,a graceful woman is inv>iably a woman highly s5sitis$1 b rememb] t alive to ! f+] tips--or toe tips1 may be true ( ! woman ) few ge/ures1 a quiet voice & measur$ words1 z well z ! int5sely active type4 ,! highly s5sitis$ woman is ! "o :o w we> h] clo!s ) individuality1 :e!r %e be r\nd$ or sl5d]4 ,to dress well is an art1 & requires conc5tration z any o!r art does4 ,y "k ! old /ory ( ! boy1 :o :5 ask$ :y 8 necktie 0 always m neatly ti$ ?an ^? ( 8 companions1 answ]$3 ,i put my :ole m9d on x4 ,!re y h x6 ,! woman :o puts h] :ole m9d on ! co/um+ ( h]self is naturally go+ to look bett] ?an ! woman :o does n1 & hav+ c>efully /udi$ h] type1 %e w "k h] /rong po9ts & h] weak ones1 & by acc5tuat+ ! =m]1 draw att5tion f ! latt]4 ,!re is a great diff]5ce1 h[ev]1 betwe5 conc5trat+ on dress until an effect is a*iev$1 & !n turn+ ! m9d to o!r subjects1 & t tiresome dawdl+1 indef9ite1 fruitless way1 to arrive at no convictions4 ,?is v>iety ( woman nev] gets dress (f h] *e/4 ,! cate*ism ( good dress+ might be giv5 9 "s su* =m z ?is3 ,are y fat8 ,if s1 nev] try to look ?9 by compress+ y\r figure or conf9+ y\r clo!s 9 su* a way z to cle>ly outl9e ! figure4 ,take a *ance f y\r size4 ,aim at long l9es1 & :at dressmak]s call an easy fit1 & ! use ( solid col\rs4 ,/ripes1 *ecks1 plaids1 spots & figures ( any k9d draw att5tion to dim5sions2 a v fat woman looks l>g] if h] surface is m>k$ (f into _m spaces4 ,likewise a v ?9 woman looks ?9n] if h] body on ! imag9ation ( ! public subtract+ is m>k$ (f into spaces absurdly few 9 numb]4 ,a beautifully proportion$ & r\nd$ figure is ! "o to indulge 9 /rip$1 *eck$1 spott$ or fl[]$ mat]ials or any p>ti-col\r$ co/umes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,nev] try to make a ?9 woman look any?+ b ?94 ,(t5 by acc5tuat+ h] ?9ness1 a woman c make an effect z type1 :i* gives h] di/9ction4 ,if %e 7 fooli% en\gh to try to look fatt]1 h] l9es w\ld be lo/ )\t atta9+ ! cont\r ( ! r\nd$ type4 ,!re are ( c\rse fa%ions 9 types2 pale a% blonds1 r$-hair$ types 7auburn or gold5 r$ ) %ell p9k complexions71 d>k hair$ types ) pale :ite sk91 etc41 & fa%ions 9 figures are z _m & z fleet+4 ,arti/s are sometimes responsible = ^! vogues4 ,"o he>s ( ! ,rub5s type1 or ! ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds1 ,hauptn]1 ,burne-,jones1 ,greuse1 ,h5n]1 ,zuloaga1 & o!rs4 ,! arti/ selects ! type & pa9ts x1 ! att5tion ( ! public is attract$ to x & !reaft] s+les x out4 ,we may pref] s(t1 r\nd blonds ) dimpl$ smiles1 b t does n mean t su* indisputable lovel9ess c *all5ge ! attractions ( a sl5d] s]p5t9e trag$y-que51 if ! latt] has e/abli%$ ! vogue ( h] type ?r\gh ! m$ium ( ! /age or pa9t]'s bru%4 ,a woman well kn[n 9 ! _w ( fa%ion bo? sides ( ! ,atlantic1 sl5d] & v tall1 has at times delib]ately increas$ t height ) a small high-cr[n$ hat1 surm\nt$ by a /ill high] fea!r4 ,%e atta9$ di/9ction )\t becom+ a c>icature1 by reason ( h] obvi\s bre$+ & res]ve4 ,"h is an important po9t4 ,a woman ( quiet & :at we call cons]vative type1 c af=d to we> conspicu\s clo!s if %e wi%es1 :]eas a conspicu\s type mu/ be res]v$ 9 h] dress4 ,by foll[+ ?is rule ! ov]bl[n rose (t5 makes h]self beautiful4 ,/udy all types ( woman4 ,beauty is a wond]ful & preci\s ?+1 & n s fleet+ ei!r z "o is told4 ,! po9t is1 to take note1 n ( beauty's dep>ture1 b its gradually *ang+ aspect1 & adapt co/ume1 l9e & col\r1 to ! dem&s ( ea* ye>'s alt]ations 9 ! individual4 ,make ! mo/ ( grey hair2 z y lose y\r col\r1 s(t5 y\r tones4 ,always /> y\r po9ts4 ,if y happ5 to h an unusual am\nt ( hair1 make x c\nt1 ev5 ?\gh ! fa%ion be to we> b little4 ,we recall ! beautiful & unique ,madame ,x4 ( ,p>is1 bless$ by ! gods ) hair l bronze1 heavy1 long1 silk5 & /raight4 ,%e wore x wrapp$ ab\t h] head & f9ally coil$ into a ,fr5* twi/ on ! top1 ! effect closely resembl+ an old ,roman helmet4 ,?is 0 design1 n *ance1 & h] well-model$ features 7 ! sort to /& ! sev]e coiffure1 ,madame's husb&1 always at h] side t season on ,lake ,luc]ne1 0 curator ( ! ,l\vre4 ,we (t5 wond]$ :e!r ! idea 0 8 or h]s4 ,%e inv>iably wore :ite1 n a note ( col\r1 save h] hair2 ev5 h] well-br$ fox t]ri] 0 sn[y :ite4 ,wor? has giv5 di/9ction to m ?an "o woman by recognis+ h] possibilities1 if kept to :ite1 black1 greys & mauves4 ,a beautiful ,engli%woman dress$ by ?is e/abli%m5t1 always a m>k$ figure at :atev] embassy h] husb& happ5s to be po/$1 has nev] be5 se5 we>+ any?+ 9 ! ev5+ b black1 or :ite1 ) v simple l9es1 cut l[ & hav+ a n>r[ tra94 ,,plate ,,ii ,woman 9 anci5t ,egyptian sculpture-relief ab\t #ajjj ,b4,c4 ,we h "h a husb& & wife4 7,metropolitan ,museum47 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman 9 ,anci5t ,egyptian ,sculpture-,relief ,x may take c\rage on ! "p ( dressmak]1 z well z ! woman 9 "q1 b grant$ y h a di/9ct /yle ( y\r own1 & und]/& x1 x is ! "p ( wisdom to e/abli% ! habit ( ^? l9es & col\rs :i* are y\rs1 & !n to avoid exp]im5ts ) outre l9es & %ades4 ,!y are almo/ sure to prove failures4 ,tak+ on a col\r & its v>iants is an economic1 z well z an arti/ic measure4 ,"s wom5 h s sy/ematis$ _! co/um+ 9 ord] to be decorative1 at ! lea/ possible exp5diture ( vitality & "t 7^! are ! wom5 :o dress to live1 n live to dress71 t !y "k at a glance1 if dress mat]ials1 hats1 gloves1 jewels1 col\r ( /ones & /yle ( sett+1 are = !m4 ,x is really a joy to %op ) ?is k9d ( woman4 ,%e has def9itely fix$ 9 h] m9d ! col\rs & l9es ( h] rooms1 all h] habitual sett+s1 & ! clo!s & accessories be/ = h]4 ,& ) ! eye ( an arti/1 %e passes swiftly by ! mo/ allur+ b>ga9s1 calculat$ to und]m9e firm resolution4 ,9 fact "o %\ld n say t ?is woman %ops2 %e buys4 ,:at is m1 %e nev] wa/es money1 ?\gh %e may sp5d x lavi%ly4 ,"s ( ! be/ dress$ wom5 7by :i* we always mean wom5 dress$ fitt+ly = ! occasion1 & ) ref]5ce to _! own p>ticul> types7 are ^? ) decid$ly limit$ incomes4 ,!re are wom5 :o sugge/ *iffon & o!rs brocade2 wom5 :o call = sat91 & o!rs = silk2 wom5 = %e] musl9s1 & o!rs = heavy l95 weaves2 wom5 = /raight brims1 & o!rs = ^? t droop2 wom5 = leghorns1 & ^? !y d n suit2 wom5 = :ite furs1 & o!rs = tawny %ades4 ,a woman ) r$ 9 h] hair is ! "o to we> r$ fox4 ,if y _c see = y\rself :at l9e & col\r d to y1 surely y h "s fri5d :o c tell y4 ,9 any case1 !re is always ! possibility ( pay+ an exp]t = advice4 ,all[ y\rself to be guid$ 9 ! rea*+ ( "s decision ab\t y\rself & y\r limitations1 z well z possibilities4 ,y w by ?is means increase y\r decorativ5ess1 & :at is ( m s]i\s importance1 y\r economic value4 ,a m>k$ example ( woman decorative 0 se5 on ! rec5t occasion :5 ,miss ,isadora ,duncan danc$ at ! ,metropolitan ,op]a ,h\se1 = ! b5efit ( ,fr5* arti/s & _! families1 victims ( ! pres5t w>4 ,miss ,duncan 0 h]self s m>vel\s t aft]noon1 z %e p\r$ h] art1 agl[ & vibrant ) g5ius1 into ! m\ld ( "o classic pose aft] ano!r1 t mo/ ( h] audi5ce _h little int]e/ 9 any o!r p]sonality1 or effect4 ,"s ( u1 h[ev]1 :5 scann+ ! h\se betwe5 ! acts1 _h our att5tion caught & held by a *>m+ly decorative woman occupy+ "o ( ! boxes1 a qua9t outl9e 9 silv]-grey taffeta1 exactly mat*+ ! %ade ( ! woman's hair1 :i* 0 cut 9 ,flor5t9e fa%ion =m+ an aureole ab\t h] small head1--a becom+ frame = h] f9e1 highly s5sitive face4 ,! deep r$ curta9s & uphol/]y 9 ! box ?rew h] into relief1 a lovely m9iature1 z se5 f a di/ance4 ,!re 7 no d\bt o!r *>m+ co/umes 9 ! boxes & /alls t aft]noon1 b none s successful 9 regi/]+ a di/9ct decorative effect4 ,! "o we ref] to 0 suitable1 becom+1 individual1 & reflect$ p]sonality 9 a way to indicate an extraord9>y s5sitiv5ess to values1 t subtle in/9ct :i* makes ! arti/4 ,) v "y wom5 x is easy to be decorative "u mo/ conditions4 ,almo/ all ( !m are decorative1 z se5 9 our pres5t fa%ions1 b to produce an effect 9 an op]a box is to und]/& ! c>ry+ p[] ( col\r & l9e4 ,! woman 9 ! op]a box has ! same problem to solve z ! woman on ! /age3 h] co/ume mu/ be effective at a di/ance4 ,su* a co/ume may be :ite1 black & any col\r2 gold1 silv]1 /eel or jet2 lace1 *iffon--:at y w--provid$ ! fact be kept 9 m9d t y\r outl9e be /rik+ & ! col\r an agreeable contra/ aga9/ ! l9+ ( ! box4 ,"h1 outl9e is ( *ief importance1 ! silh\ette mu/ be def9ite2 hair1 ornam5ts1 fan1 cut ( g[n1 calculat$ to regi/] aga9/ ! backgr\nd4 ,9 ! /alls1 col\r & outl9e ( any s+le co/ume become a "p ( ! mass ( col\r & black & :ite ( ! audi5ce4 ,x is difficult to be a decorative factor "u ^! conditions1 yet we c all recall wom5 ( e age1 :o s co/ume !mselves z to make an arti/ic1 memorable impression1 n only :5 ent]+ op]a1 !atre or conc]t hall1 b :5 seat$4 ,^! are ! wom5 :o und]/& ! value ( elim9ation1 re/ra9t1 col\r h>mony & t *ic :i* results 9 "p f faultless groom+4 ,to-day x is n en\gh to possess hair :i* curls ideally3 x mu/1 willy nilly1 curl conv5tionally6 ,if x is necess>y1 prud5t or wise t y\r pur*ases = ea* season include n m ?an six new g[ns1 take ! advice ( an actress ( int]national reputation1 :o is fam\s = h] good dress+ 9 private life1 & make a po9t ( add+ "o new g[n to ea* ( ! six dep>tm5ts ( y\r w>drobe4 ,!n h ! clev]ness to appe> 9 ^! co/umes :5ev] on view1 mak+ :at y h fill 9 betwe5 times4 ,to be cle>1 we w\ld say1 try always to beg9 a season ) "o di/+ui%$ ev5+ g[n1 "o sm>t tailor suit1 "o *>m+ h\se g[n1 "o tea g[n1 "o negligee & "o sport suit4 ,if y are ne$+ _m danc+ frocks1 :i* h h>d we>1 get a simple1 becom+ model1 :i* y\r little dressmak]1 seam/ress or maid c copy 9 inexp5sive b becom+ col\rs4 ,y c d ?is 9 ,summ] & ,w9t] alike1 & ) danc+ frocks1 tea g[ns1 negligees & ev5 sport suits4 ,t is1 if y h sm>t1 up-to-date models to copy4 ,"o woman we "k b\ght ! f9e/ quality j]sey clo? by ! y>d1 & _h a little dressmak] copy exactly a v exp5sive skirt & sweat]4 ,x seems incr$ible1 b %e sav$ on a ready made suit exactly l x =ty doll>s1 & on "o made to measure by an exclusive h\se1 "o hundr$ doll>s6 ,rememb]1 h[ev]1 t !re 0 an arti/ back ( x all & someone _h to pay = t p]fect model1 to />t )4 ,9 ! case we cite1 ! woman _h h]self b\ght ! orig9al sport suit f an import] :o is always 9 advance ) ,p>is models4 ,if y _c buy ! designs & workman%ip ( arti/s1 take advantage ( all opportunities to see !m2 hats & g[ns %[n at op5+s1 or :5 y\r ri*] fri5ds are ord]+4 ,9 ?is way y w get ideas to make use ( & y w avoid look+ home-made1 ?an :i*1 no m damn+ phrase c be appli$ to any co/ume4 ,z a matt] ( fact x implies a hat or g[n lack+ an arti/'s t\* & describes _m a "o turn$ out by long-e/abli%$ & l>gely patronis$ firms4 ,,plate ,,iii ,a ,greek vase4 ,dionysiac sc5es ab\t #dfj ,b4,c4 ,int]e/+ co/umes4 7,metropolitan ,museum47 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman on ,greek ,vase ,! only satisfactory copy ( a ,=tuny tea g[n we h ev] se5 accompli%$ away f ! sup]vision ( ,=tuny himself1 0 ! exquisite h&-"w ( a "y ,am]ican woman :o lives 9 ,new ,york1 & makes h] own g[ns & hats1 because h] int]e/ & tal5t happ5 to be 9 t direction4 ,%e told a gr\p ( fri5ds ! o!r day1 to :om %e 0 %[+ a da9ty *iffon g[n1 pos$ on a =m1 t to h]1 ! plann+ & mak+ ( a lovely co/ume _h ! same ?rill+ excitem5t t ! pa9t+ ( a picture _h = ! arti/ 9 ! field ( pa9t & canvas4 ,?is same "y woman has work$ con/antly s9ce ! ,european w> began1 bo? 9 ,london & ,new ,york1 on ! %apeless surgical %irts us$ by ! w\nd$ soldi]s4 ,9 ?is1 does %e outrank h] less accompli%$ si/]s8 ,yes1 = ! te*nique %e has a*iev$ by mak+ h] own co/umes makes h] swift & economical1 bo? 9 ! cutt+ ( h] mat]ial & 9 ! actual sew+ & %e is invaluable z a buy] ( mat]ials4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,laws ,,und]ly+ ,,all ,,co/um+ ,,( ,,woman ,t e co/ume is ei!r "r or wrong is n a matt] ( g5]al k4 ,x w d1 or ,x is ne> en\gh are v]dicts responsible = beauty hidd5 & int]e/ de/roy$4 ,:o has n witness$ ! mad m5tal confusion ( wom5 & m5 put to x to decide ^u co/umes = "s fancy-dress ball1 & ! appall+ ignorance display$ :51 at ! co/um]'s1 !y vaguely grope among batt]$-look+ g>m5ts1 accept+ ^? pr(f]$1 n really kn[+ h[ ! co/ume !y ask = %\ld look8 ,absurd mi/akes 9 p]iod co/umes are to be tak5 m or less s]i\sly accord+ to temp]am5t4 ,b :]e is ! fair woman :o w say t a failure to em]ge f a dressmak]'s h&s 9 a successful co/ume is n a trag$y8 ,yet we "k t ! av]age woman1 m (t5 ?an n1 /&s /upefi$ be=e ! inf9ite v>iety ( mat]ials & col\rs ( our tw5tie? c5tury1 & unless guid$ by an exp]t1 r>ely pres5ts ! figure1 *ez-elle1 or :5 on view 9 public places1 :i* %e w\ld or c\ld1 if 9 possession ( ! few rules und]ly+ all successful dress+1 :atev] ! c5tury or circum/ances4 ,six sali5t po9ts are to be borne 9 m9d :5 plann+ a co/ume1 :e!r = a fancy-dress ball or to be worn z "o goes ab\t "o's daily life3 99 99 99 99 99 ,fir/1 appropriat5ess to occasion1 /ation & age2 ,second1 "* ( backgr\nd y are to appe> aga9/ 7y\r sett+72 ,?ird1 :at outl9e y wi% to pres5t to obs]v]s 7! p]iod ( co/ume72 ,f\r?1 :at mat]ials ( ^? 9 use dur+ p]iod select$ y w *oose2 ,fif?1 :at col\rs ( ^? *>act]i/ic ( p]iod y w use2 ,six?1 ! di/9ction betwe5 ^? details :i* are obvi\s contributions to ! co/ume1 & ^? :i* are sup]flu\s1 because mean+less or l9e-de/roy+4 99 99 99 99 99 ,let u rem9d our read] t ! woman :o dresses 9 p]fect ta/e (t5 sp5ds f> less money ?an %e :o has contract$ ! habit ( indef9it5ess z to :at %e wants1 :at %e %\ld want1 & h[ to we> :at %e gets4 ,:]e "o woman has us$ h] m9d & le>n$ beyond all wav]+ :at %e c & :at %e _c we>1 ?\s&s fill ! /reets by day & places ( amusem5t by night1 :o bli!ly c>ry ^u _! p]sons co/umes :i* hide _! good po9ts & acc5tuate _! bad ones4 ,! r>a avis among wom5 is %e :o always pres5ts a fa%ionable outl9e1 b s subtly adapt$ to h] own type t ! impression made is "o ( di/9ct individuality4 ,"o kn[s v well h[ little ! av]age co/ume c\nts 9 a !atre1 op]a h\se or ball-room4 ,x is a "q ( backgr\nd aga94 ,also y w obs]ve t ! co/ume :i* c\nts mo/ individually1 is ! "o 9 a key high] or l[] ?an ! av]age1 z ) a voice 9 a cr[d$ room4 ,! *ief contribution ( our day to ! art ( mak+ woman decorative is ! quality ( appropriat5ess4 ,i ref] ( c\rse to ! woman :o lives h] life 9 ! me%es ( civilisation4 ,we h def9$ ! sm>t woman z %e :o we>s ! co/ume be/ suit$ to ea* occasion :5 t occasion pres5ts itself4 ,accept+ ?is def9ition1 we mu/ all agree t beyond "q ! sm>te/ wom51 z a nation1 are ,engli% wom51 :o are s fundam5tally conv9c$ z to ! inv9cible law ( appropriat5ess t f ! cradle to ! grave1 ) !m ev5+ means an ev5+ g[n2 c\ntry clo!s are suit$ to c\ntry uses & a tea-g[n is n a b$room negligee4 ,n ev5 9 ,rome c !y be prevail$ ^u to d z ! ,romans d4 ,apropos ( ?is we recall an exp]i5ce 9 ,scotl&4 ,a h\se p>ty _h ga!r$ = ! %oot+1--,engli% m5 & wom54 ,among ! gue/s 7 two ,am]icans2 done to a turn by ,r$f]n4 ,x really turn$ out to be a trag$y1 z !y saw x1 = ?\gh _! clo? skirts 7 %ort1 !y 7 silk-l9$2 out+ %irts 7 ( crepe--n flannel2 tan boots1 b ?9ly sol$2 hats mo/ *ic1 b ! sort t droop$ 9 a mi/4 ,well1 ^? two ,am]ican girls _h to *oose betwe5 long days alone1 :ile ! re/ tramp$ ! moors1 or to be+ togg$ out 9 borr[$ twe$s1 flannel %irts & ?ick-sol$ boots4 ,,plate ,,iv ,greek ,kylix4 ,sign$ by ,hi]on1 ab\t #djj ,b4,c4 ,a!nian4 ,! woman we>s "o ( ! g[ns ,=tuny 7,p>is7 has reproduc$ z a mod]n tea g[n4 ,x is 9 two pieces4 ,! *>act]i/ic %ort tunic rea*es j bel[ wai/ l9e 9 front & hangs 9 long1 f9e pleats 7sometimes cascad$ folds7 "u ! arms1 ! ends ( :i* rea* bel[ knees4 ,! mat]ial is n cut to =m sleeves2 in/ead two oblong pieces ( mat]ial are held toge!r by small fa/5+s at %ort int]vals1 %[+ upp] arm ?r\gh int]v5+ spaces4 ,! result 9 appe>ance is simil> to a kimono sleeve4 7,metropolitan ,museum47 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman 9 ,greek ,art ab\t #djj ,b4,c4 ,t 0 "s ye>s back4 ,we are a mat* = ,engl& to-day1 9 ! op51 b h a long way to g be=e we we> ) equal conviction1 & !re=e easy grace1 tea-g[n & ev5+ dress4 ,bo? h[ & :5 /ill annoy u z a nation4 ,on ! /reet we are supreme :5 tailleur4 ,9 c>riage attire ! ,fr5* woman is supreme1 by reason ( t innate ,lat9 coquetry :i* makes h] feel l9e & its significance4 ,! ideal pose = any hat is a ,fr5* secret4 ,! av]age woman is p>tially aw>e t if %e w\ld be a decorative be+1 %e mu/ grasp conclusively two po9ts3 fir/1 ! limitations ( h] natural outl9e2 secondly1 a k ( h[ ne>ly %e c approa* ! outl9e dem&$ by fa%ion )\t appe>+ a c>icature1 :i* is ano!r way ( say+ t ea* woman %\ld le>n to recognise h] own type4 ,! discussion ( silh\ette has become a popul> !me4 ,9 fact x w\ld be difficult to f9d a mak] ( wom5's co/umes s remote & unread z n to h seiz$ & imb$d$ deep 9 h] vocabul>y t my/ic ^w4 ,to make our po9ts cle>1 con/ant ref]5ce to ! /age is necess>y2 = f /age effects we are "o & all free to enjoy & le>n4 ,n[h]e else c ! woman see s cle>ly pres5t$ ! value ( hav+ :at %e we>s h>monise ) ! room %e we>s x 91 & ! occasion = :i* x is worn4 ,n all plays depict+ contempor>y life are plays ( social life1 /ag$ & co/um$ 9 a *ic mann]4 ,:at is taught by ! mod]n /age1 z %[n by ,bak/1 ,re9h>dt1 ,b>k]1 ,urban1 ,jones1 ! ,portmanteau ,!atre & ,wa%+ton ,squ>e ,play]s1 is values1 z ! arti/ uses ! t]m--n fa%ions2 ! relative importance ( backgr\nd1 outl9e1 col\r1 texture ( mat]ial & h[ to produce h>moni\s effects by ! judici\s comb9ation ( furni%+s & co/umes4 ,to-day1 :5 we want to say t a co/ume or ! int]ior decoration ( a h\se is ! la/ ^w 9 mod]n l9e & col\r1 we are apt to call x a la ,bak/1 mean+ ( c\rse ,leon ,bak/1 ^: ,am]ican po/] 0 ! ,russian ,ballet4 ,if y h n done s already1 buy or borr[ ! wond]ful ,bak/ book1 %[+ reproductions 9 _! col\rs ( 8 extraord9>y draw+s1 ! orig9als ( :i* are own$ by private individuals or museums1 9 ,p>is1 ,petrograd1 ,london1 & ,new ,york4 ,!y are outre to a degree1 yet ea* "o sugge/s ! :ole or p>ts ( co/umes = mod]n woman--adorable l9es1 unbelievable comb9ations ( col\r6 ,no wond] ,poiret1 ! ,p>is dressmak]1 seiz$ ^u ,bak/ z design] 7or 0 x ,bak/ :o seiz$ ^u ,poiret874 ,bak/ got 8 inspiration 9 ! ,ori5t4 ,z a bit ( pro(1 = y\r own satisfaction1 !re is a book entitl$ ,six ,monum5ts ( ,*9ese ,sculpture1 by ,edw>d ,*auvannes1 publi%$ 9 #aiad1 by ,g4 ,van ,oe/ ,cie41 ( ,brussels & ,p>is4 ,! au?or1 ) a highly comm5dable desire to p]petuate = /ud5ts a record ( ! mo/ anci5t specim5ts ( ,*9ese sculpture1 br\ght to ,p>is & sold !re1 f "t to "t1 to art-collectors1 f all ov] ! _w2 select$ six f9e specim5ts z !me ( text & = illu/rations4 ,plate #bc 9 ?is collection %[s a woman ^: co/ume 9 outl9e might h be5 tak5 f ,bak/ or ev5 ,vogue4 ,b put x ! o!r way r\nd3 ! ,vogue arti/ to-day--we use ! ^w z a g5]ic t]m--f9ds inspiration ?r\gh museums & su* works z ! above4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly true z our little h&book goes into pr9t1 = ! reason t ! great w> betwe5 ! ,c5tral ,p[]s & ! ,ent5te has to a c]ta9 ext5t *eck$ ! inv5tion & mat]ial output ( ,europe1 & driv5 design]s ( & deal]s 9 co/umes = wom51 to ,*9a & ,japan4 ,our great-great-gr&mo!rs "h 9 ,am]ica wore ,p>is fa%ions %[n on ! import$ fa%ion dolls & made up 9 brocades f ,*9a1 by ! ,colonial mantua mak]s4 ,s we are b repeat+ hi/ory4 ,to-day1 w>1 :i* means horror1 ugl9ess1 loss ( ideals & illusions1 holds mo/ ( ! _w 9 its grasp1 & we f9d creative arti/s--apo/les ( ! ,beautiful1 seek+ ! ,ori5t because x is remote f ! great _w /ruggle4 ,we he> t ,edmund ,dulac 7:o has %[n 9 a sup]lative mann]1 woman decorative1 :5 illu/rat+ ! ,arabian ,nights & o!r well-kn[n books71 is plann+ a flight to ! ,ori5t4 ,he says t he longs to bury himself f> f c>nage1 9 ! hope ( woo+ back 8 muse4 ,if ?is subject ( backgr\nd1 l9e & col\r1 9 relation to co/um+ ( woman1 int]e/s y1 !re are _m ways ( gett+ valuable po9ts4 ,"o ( !m1 z we h said1 is to walk ?r\gh gall]ies look+ at pictures only z decorations2 t is1 col\r & l9e aga9/ ! pa9t]'s backgr\nd4 ,fa%ions *ange1 9 dress1 arrangem5t ( hair1 jewels1 etc41 b ?is does n affect values4 ,x is la ligne1 ! gr& ge/ure1 or l9e fraught ) mean+ & balance & h>mony ( col\r4 ,! read] kn[s ! col\r s*eme ( h] own rooms & ! "* ( g[ns %e is plann+1 & = sugge/ions z to int]e/+ col\r aga9/ col\r1 %e c h no high] au?ority ?an ! exp]i5ce ( recognis$ pa9t]s4 ,"s develop rapidly 9 ?is /udy ( values4 ,if y\r rooms are s-call$ p]iod rooms1 y ne$ n ( necessity dress 9 p]iod co/umes1 b :at is extremely important1 if y w\ld n spoil y\r p]iod room1 nor fail to be a decorative contribution :5 9 x1 is t y make a po9t ( hav+ ! col\r & texture ( y\r h\se g[ns 9 ! same key z ! hang+s & uphol/]y ( y\r room4 ,:ite is safe 9 any room1 black is at times too /rong4 ,x dep5ds 9 "p ^u ! size ( y\r room4 ,if x is small & 9 s(t tones1 delicate h>monis+ %ades w n obtrude !mselves z black c & s r$uce ! effect ( space4 ,?is is ! case n only ) black1 b ) em]ald gre51 decid$ %ades ( r$1 royal blue1 & purple or deep yell[s4 ,if arti/ic creations1 ^! col\rs are all decorative 9 a room done 9 light tones1 provid$ ! room is l>ge4 ,a ,l\is ,,xvi salon is f> m beautiful if ! co/umes are kept 9 ,l\is ,,xvi col\r+ & all details1 su* z lace1 jewelry1 fans1 etc41 kept /rictly )9 ! picture2 f9e 9 design1 delicate 9 col\r+1 workman%ip & quality ( mat]ial4 ,beyond ^! po9ts "o may foll[ ! outl9e dem&$ by ! fa%ion ( ! mom5t1 if desir$4 ,b rememb] t a beautiful1 int]e/+ room1 furni%$ ) works ( art1 dem&s a beautiful1 int]e/+ co/ume1 if ! woman 9 "q w\ld su/a9 ! impression made by h] rooms1 to ! arrang+ ( :i* %e has giv5 ?\ght1 "t & vitality1 to say no?+ ( f9ancial outlay2 %e mu/ take h] own decorative appe>ance s]i\sly4 ,,plate ,v ,example ( ! po9t$ head-dress1 c>efully conceal$ hair 79 c]ta9 c\ntries at c]ta9 p]iods ( hi/ory1 a sign ( mode/y71 r\nd necklace & v long close sleeves *>act]i/ic ( f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4 ,obs]ve angle at :i* head-dress is worn4 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman 9 ,go?ic ,art ,portrait %[+ po9t$ head-dress ,! writ] has pass$ wond]ful h\rs exam9+ r>e illum9at$ manuscripts ( ! ,middle ,ages 7twelf?1 ?irte5?1 f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies71 missals1 ,h\rs ( ! ,virg91 & ,brevi>ies1 = ! sole purpose ( /udy+ woman's co/umes1--_! col\r1 l9e & details1 z depict$ by ! old arti/s4 ,go?ic co/umes 9 ,go?ic int]iors1 & ,e>ly ,r5aissance co/umes 9 ,r5aissance int]iors4 ,! art ( mod]ns 9 v>i\s m$ia1 has tak5 f ^! creations ( m$iaeval g5ius1 m ?an is g5]ally realiz$4 ,we 7 look+ at a r>e illum9at$ ,go?ic manuscript rec5tly1 f :i* ,william ,morris drew inspirations & ideas = ! books he made4 ,x is a monum5tal a*ievem5t ( ! twelf? c5tury1 a mass book1 writt5 & illum9at$ 9 ,fl&]s2 at "o "t 9 ! possession ( a ,ci/]cian mona/]y1 b n[ "o ( ! treasures 9 ! not$ private collection made by ! late ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan4 ,! pages are ( vellum & ! illum9ations %[ ! figures ( sa9ts 9 jewel-l col\rs on backgr\nds ( pure gold leaf4 ,! b9d+ ( ?is book1--sides ( wood1 held toge!r by heavy :ite vellum1 h&-tool$ ) clasps ( ?9 silv]1 is ! "w ( ,morris himself & v *>act]i/ic ( 8 mann]4 ,he patt]n$ 8 h&-made books aft] ^! great models1 j z he work$ ye>s to duplicate "s wond]ful old piece ( furniture1 realis+ s well ! magic :i* lies 9 consecrat$ lab\r1 t lab\r :i* takes no acc\nt ( "t1 nor pay1 b is l$ on by ! vision ( p]fection possess+ ! arti/'s s\l4 ,we "k wom5 :o h copi$ ! l9e1 col\r & mat]ial ( co/umes depict$ 9 ,go?ic illum9ations t !y might be 9 h>mony ) _! own ,go?ic rooms4 ,"o woman famili> ) ?is art1 has plann$ a frankly mod]n room1 cov]+ h] walls ) gold ,japanese fibre1 gild+ h] woodwork & doors1 us+ ! brilliant blues1 purples & gre5s ( ! old illum9ations 9 h] hang+s1 uphol/]y & cu%ions1 & z a /rik+ contribution to ! decorative s*eme1 co/umes h]self 9 :ite1 "s s(t1 cl++ mat]ial su* z crepe de *9e1 lib]ty sat9 or *iffon velvet1 :i* take ! m$iaeval l9es1 9 long folds4 ,%e we>s a silv] girdle =m$ ( ! h&-made clasps ( old religi\s books1 & h] r+s1 neck *a9s & e>r+s are all ( h&-wr\ght silv]1 ) preci\s /ones cut 9 ! anci5t way & irregul>ly set4 ,?is woman got h] idea ( ! effectiv5ess ( :ite aga9/ gold f an anci5t missal 9 a fam\s private collection1 :i* %[s ! sa9ts all clad 9 m>vell\s :ite aga9/ gold leaf4 ,:i/l]'s h\se at #b ,*eyne ,road1 ,london1 _h a room ! dado & doors ( :i* 7 done 9 gold1 on :i* he & two ( 8 pupils pa9t$ ! scatt]$ petals ( :ite & p9k *rysan!mums4 ,possibly a ,p]sian or ,japanese effect1 z ,:i/l] lean$ t way1 b "o sees ! same idea 9 an illum9ation ( ! e>ly sixte5? c5tury2 ,h\rs ( ! ,virg9 & ,brevi>y1 made = ,eleanor ( ,portugal1 ,que5 ( ,john ,,ii4 ,! decorations "h are 9 ! /yle ( ! ,r5aissance1 n ,go?ic1 & "s ?9k ,meml+ _h a h& 9 ! "w4 ,! bord]s ( ! illum9ation1 *>act]i/ic ( ! ,bruges ,s*ool1 are gold leaf on :i* is pa9t$1 9 ! mo/ reali/ic way1 an imm5se v>iety ( s+le fl[]s1 small roses1 pansies1 violets1 daisies1 etc41 & among !m butt]flies & insects4 ,?is bord] surr\nds ! pictures :i* illu/rate ! text4 ,always ! m>vell\s col\r1 ! a/\nd+ skill 9 lay+ x on to ! vellum pages1 an un=gettable lesson 9 ! possibility ( col\r appli$ effectively to co/umes1 :5 backgr\nd is kept 9 m9d4 ,?is ,brevi>y 0 b\nd 9 gre5 velvet & clasp$ ) h&-wr\ght silv]1 = ,c>d9al ,rodrigue de ,ca/ro 7#aebj-afjj7 ( ,spa94 ,x is n[ 9 ! private collection ( ,mr4 ,morgan4 ,! cov] alone gives "o great emotion1 g5u9e anci5t velvet ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 to imitate :i* taxes ! +5uity ( ! mo/ skilful ( mod]n manufactur]s4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,h[ ,,to ,,dress ,,y\r ,,type ,a ,few ,po9ts ,apply+ to ,all ,co/umes ,ne$less to say1 :5 consid]+ woman's co/umes1 = ord9>y use1 9 _! relation to backgr\nd1 unless "s *ameleon-l mat]ial be inv5t$ to take on ! col\r ( any backgr\nd1 "o mu/ be cont5t ) ! consid]ation ( "o's own rooms1 por*es1 g>d51 op]a-box or automobile1 etc4 ,= a g[n to be worn :5 away f home1 :5 lun*+1 at receptions or d9n]s1 ! fir/ consid]ation mu/ be becom+ness1--a c>eful selection ( l9e & col\r t br+ out ! individuality ( ! we>]4 ,:5 away f "o's own sett+1 p]sonality is "o ( ! *ief assets ( e woman4 ,rememb]1 individuality is nature's gift to ea* human be+4 ,"s are m m>k$ly diff]5t ?an o!rs1 b we h all se5 a s-call$ col\rless woman trans=m$ into surpris+ lovel9ess :5 dress$ by an arti/'s in/9ct4 ,a delicate type ( blond1 ) fair hair1 quiet eyes & fa9t %ell-p9k complexion1 c be snuff$ out by too /rong col\rs4 ,rememb] t y\r e!real blond is inv>iably at h] be/ 9 :ite1 black 7nev] :ite & black 9 comb9ation unless black ) s(t :ite coll>s & frills7 & delicate pa/el %ades4 ,,plate ,,vi ,fifte5?-c5tury co/ume4 ,virg9 & ,*ild 9 pa9t$ t]ra-cotta4 ,x is by ,&rea ,v]roc*io1 & n[ 9 ,metropolitan ,museum4 ,we h "h an illu/ration ( ! co/ume1 s (t5 %[n on ! p]son ( ! ,virg9 9 ! art ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman 9 ,art ( ! ,r5aissance ,sculpture-,relief 9 ,t]ra-,cotta3 ,! ,virg9 ,! ri*ly-ton$ brunette comes into h] own 9 r$s1 yell[s & l[-tones ( /rong blue4 ,col\rless jewels %\ld adorn y\r p]fect blond1 col\rful gems y\r gl[+ brunette4 ,:at ( ^? betwixt & betwe58 ,9 su* cases let complexion & col\r ( eyes act z guide 9 ! *oice ( col\rs4 ,"o is famili> ) v>i\s trite rules su* z mat* ! eyes1 c>ry out ! g5]al s*eme ( y\r col\r+1 by :i* is meant1 if y are a yell[ blond1 g 9 = yell[s1 if y\r hair is a%-br[n1 y\r eyes b a %ade deep]1 & y\r sk9 incl9$ to be lifeless 9 tone1 we> beav] br[ns & cont5t y\rself ) mak+ a record 9 h>mony1 ) no contra/+ note4 ,j "h let u say t ! woman 9 "q mu/ at ! v outset decide :e!r %e w\ld look pretty or *ic1 sacrific+ ! "o = ! o!r1 or if %e insi/s ^u bo?1 c>efully arrange a compromise4 ,z = example1 comb9e a semi-picture hat ) a semi-tailor$ dress4 ,! /rictly *ic woman ( our day goes 9 = appropriat5ess2 ! l9es ( ! late/ fa%ion1 b adapt$ to br+ out h] own be/ po9ts1 :ile conceal+ h] bad ones1 & an insi/ance ^u a col\r & a %ade ( col\r1 suffici5tly def9ite to impress ! behold] at a glance4 ,?is type ( woman z a rule keeps to a few col\rs1 possibly "o or two & _! v>ieties1 & pref]s g[ns ( "o mat]ial r ?an comb9ations ( mat]ials4 ,?\gh %e possess bo? /yle & beauty1 %e elects to emphasise /yle4 ,9 ! case ( ! o!r woman1 :o w\ld /> h] face at ! exp5se ( h] t\t ensemble1 col\r is h] fir/ consid]ation1 multiplication ( detail & intellig5t express+ ( h]self 9 h] mise-en-sc5e4 ,s$uisant1 in/ead ( *ic is ! ^w = ?is woman4 ,y\r black-hair$ woman ) :ite sk9 & d>k1 brilliant eyes1 is ! "o :o c be/ we> em]ald gre5 & o!r /rong col\rs4 ,! n[ fa%ionable mu/>d1 sage gre51 & bright mag5tas are also ! affaire ( ?is woman ) cle> sk91 brilliant col\r & sp>kl+ eyes4 ,^! same col\rs1 if subdu$1 are lovely on ! middle-ag$ woman ) black hair1 quiet eyes & pale complexion1 b if h] hair is grey or :ite1 mu/>d & sage gre5 are n = h]1 & ! mag5ta mu/ be ! deep purpli% sort1 :i* comb9es ) h] violets & mauves1 or delicate p9ks & fad$ blues4 ,%e w be at h] be/ 9 %ades ( grey :i* tone ) h] hair4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,psy*ology ,,( ,,clo!s ,has ! read] ev] obs]v$ ! effect ( clo!s ^u mann]s8 ,x is amaz+1 & only proves h[ pa!tically *ildlike human nature is4 ,put any woman into a ,m>ie ,anto9ette co/ume & see h[1 dur+ an ev5+ %e w gradually take on ! mann]isms ( t "t4 ,?is v po9t 0 br\ght up rec5tly 9 conv]sation ) an arti/1 :o 9 ref]r+ to "o ( ! mo/ successful co/ume balls ev] giv5 9 ,new ,york--! cr9ol9e ball at ! old ,a/or ,h\se--spoke ( h[ our unromantic ,wall ,/reet m5 fell to ! spell ( /ocks1 ruffl$ %irts & knick]bock]s1 & z ! ev5+ advanc$1 7 q !mselves 9 ! m9uette & polka1 b[+ l[ 9 solemn rigidity1 lead+ _! lady ) high ar*$ arm1 grasp+ h] p9*$-9 wai/1 & sw++ h] b]uffl$1 cr9ol9$ =m 9 q ! #ahfj mann]4 ,"s wom51 ev5 girls ( t5d] ye>s1 h a natural in/9ct = co/um+ !mselves1 s t !y contribute 9 a decorative way to any sett+ :i* *ance makes !irs4 ,wat* *ildr5 dress+ up & see h[ among a l>ge numb]1 p]haps n m ?an "o ( !m w h ?is gift = effects4 ,x w be %e :o kn[s at a glance :i* ( ! available odds & ends %e wants = h]self1 & ) a sure1 swift h& w wrap a bright %awl ab\t h]1 tie a flam+ bit ( silk ab\t h] d>k head1 & ) an assum$ mann]1 born ( h] g>b1 ca/ a magic spell ov] ! small b& :i* %e leads on1 to t :i*1 )\t h] int5se conviction & _! susceptibility to h] m5tal attitude t[>d ! masqu]ade1 c\ld nev] be done4 ,?is illu/rates ! po9t we w\ld make z to ! effect ( clo!s ^u psy*ology4 ,! actor's co/ume affects ! real actor's psy*ology z mu* or m ?an x does t ( 8 audi5ce4 ,he is ! man he has made himself appe>4 ,! writ] _h ! exp]i5ce ( see+ a well-kn[n op]a s+]1 :5 a victim to a bad case ( ! grippe1 leave h] hotel voiceless1 fac+ a mat9ee ( ,juliet4 ,arriv$ 9 h] dress+-room at ! op]a1 %e proce$$ to *ange into ! co/ume = ! fir/ act4 ,"u ! spell ( h] role1 t prima donna seem$ lit]ally to %$ h] malady ) h] ord9>y g>m5ts1 & to take on heal? & vitality ) h] ,juliet robes4 ,ev5 9 ! ,waltz song h] voice did n betray h]1 & app>5tly no critic detect$ t %e 0 indispos$4 ,9 speak+ ( p]iods 9 furniture1 we said t _! /ory 0 "o ( waves ( types :i* repeat$ !mselves1 reflect+ ! ages 9 :i* !y prevail$4 ,) clo!s we f9d x is ! same ?+3 ! sc>let1 & silv] & gold ( ! e>ly ,jacobeans1 is foll[$ by ! drabs & greys ( ! ,commonweal?2 ! m>vell\s col\r ( ! ,*ur*1 :]e ,beauty 0 en?ron$1 0 /amp$ out by ! iron w ( ,cromwell :o1 9 sett+ up 8 /&>d ( revolt1 wrapp$ s\l & body ( ! new ,fai? 9 p5al %ades4 ,new ,engl& 0 conceiv$ 9 ?is _s & z m9d _h affect$ ! col\r ( ! ,puritans' clo!s1 s 9 turn ! drab clo!s1 prescrib$ by _! new cre$1 help$ to remove col\r f ! ,new ,engl& m9d & nature4 ,,plate ,,vii ,fifte5?-c5tury co/umes on ! ,holy ,wom5 at ! ,tomb ( our ,"l4 ,! sculpture relief is enamell$ t]ra-cotta 9 :ite1 blue1 gre51 yell[ & manganese col\rs4 ,x be>s ! date #adhg4 ,note "* ( head-dresses1 arrangem5t ( hair1 capes & g[ns :i* are ,e>ly ,r5aissance4 7,metropolitan ,museum47 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,woman 9 ,art ( ! ,r5aissance ,sculpture-,relief 9 ,t]ra-,cotta3 ,holy ,wom5 ,b obs]ve h[1 z prosp]ity foll[s privation1 ! m9d exp&s1 rea*+ out = :at ! *ang$ psy*ology dem&s4 ,x is ! old /ory ( ,rome gr[n ri* & gay 9 mood & dress4 ,!re 7 ( c\rse1 villa9s 9 ,puritan drab & ,grecian :ite1 b ! *ild 9 e man takes symbol = fact4 ,s x is t to-day1 "s %udd] ) ! belief t ,beauty1 re-en?ron$ 9 all h] gorge\s mod]n hues1 means ne> disa/]4 ,! progressives claim t into ! _w has come a new hope2 t b5ea? our lovely clo!s ( ra9b[ t9ts1 & )9 our homes :]e ,beauty surely reigns1 a new psy*ology is born to radiate col\r f )94 ,our advice to ! woman n born ) clo!s s5se1 is3 employ exp]ts until y acquire a m5tal picture ( y\r possibilities & limitations1 or buy z y c af=d to1 good ,fr5* models1 "u exp]t sup]vision4 ,y may nev] turn out to be an arti/ 9 ! treatm5t ( y\r appe>ance1 in/9ctively kn[+ h[ a prevail+ fa%ion 9 l9e & col\r may be adapt$ to y1 b y c be taught :at y\r own type is1 :at y\r /rong po9ts are1 y\r weak ones1 & h[1 :ile acc5tuat+ ! =m]1 y may oblit]ate ! latt]4 ,!re are two types ( wom5 famili> to all ( u3 ! "o ga9s 9 vital *>m & ab&on ( _s f ! consci\sness t %e is faultlessly g[n$2 ! o!r succumbs to self-consci\sness & is pitifully unable to extricate h] mood f h] mat]ial trapp+s4 ,= ! d>l+ ( ! gods :o walks ?r\gh life on cl\ds1 head up & _s-free1 :o kn[s %e is p]fectly turn$ out & lets x g at t1 we h only grateful applause4 ,%e x is :o c>ries e occasion %e graces--indoors1 out-(-doors1 at home1 abroad4 ,may h] k9d be multipli$6 ,b to ! o!r type1 %e :o droops "u h] silks & gold tissue1 ^: pe>ls are *a9s inde$1 we w\ld ?r[ out a lifel9e4 ,subm]g$ by clo!s1 ! m %e /ruggles to rise above !m ! m h] _s flags4 ,! case is ?is3 ! woman's m9d is wrong2 h] clo!s are "r--lovely z ev] se52 h] jewels gems2 h] h\se & c> & dog ! be/4 ,x is h] m9d t is wrong2 x is turn$ 91 in/ead ( out4 ,n[ ?is int5se & s\l-1 z well z l9e-de/roy+ self-consci\sness1 may be pr5atal1 & x may result f ! ,puritan attitude t[>d beauty2 t old ,new ,engl& po9t ( view t ! beautiful & ! vici\s are ak94 ,e "y *ild ne$s to h cultivat$ a c]ta9 degree ( self-reliance4 ,to "k t "o's appe>ance is pleas+1 to put x mildly1 is ( ine/imable value :5 x comes to meet+ ! _w4 ,e *ild1 if normal1 has its good po9ts--hair1 eyes1 tee?1 complexion or figure2 & we all "k t _m a /age beauty has be5 built up on ev5 two ( ^! attributes4 ,/> y\r good po9ts1 clo!s w help y4 ,be a w9n] 9 y\r own sett+1 b avoid ! fatal error ( damn+ y\r clo!s by ! _s )9 y4 ,! writ] has 9 m9d a woman ( di/+ui%$ appe>ance1 beauty1 great weal?1 few c>es1 wond]ful clo!s & jewels1 palatial homes2 & yet an envi\s unre/ poisons h] s\l4 ,%e w\ld look diff]5tly1 be diff]5t & has n ! wisdom to %ake (f h] fett]s4 ,h] p]fect dress+ helps ?is woman2 y w\ld n be consci\s ( h] o!rwise1 b ) h] natural equipm5t1 grant$ t %e conc5trat$ ^u fla%+ h] _s in/ead ( h] weal?1 %e w\ld be a lead] 9 a f9e s5se4 ,! ,beauty ,doctor c d mu*1 b %[ u "o :o c put a gleam 9 ! eye1 tight5 ! grasp1 tea* "o t ineffable grace :i* enables woman1 "y or old1 to we> h] clo!s z if an integral "p ( h]self4 ,?is quality belongs to ! woman :o kn[s1 ?\gh %e may n h ?\ght x out1 t clo!s c make "o a success1 b n a success 9 ! endur+ s5se4 ,dress is a tyrant if y take x z y\r god1 b on ! o!r h& dress becomes a magician's w& :5 dom9at$ by a clev] bra94 ,g[n y\rself z beautifully z y c af=d1 b ) judgm5t4 ,:at we d1 & h[ we d x1 is (t5 s]i\sly & /rangely affect$ by :at we h on4 ,! writ] has 9 m9d a lit]>y woman :o says %e c nev] talk bus9ess except 9 a l95 coll>6 ,m>k ,twa91 9 8 la/ days1 insi/$ t he wrote m easily 9 8 night-%irt4 ,ri*>d ,wagn] delib]ately put on c]ta9 ri* mat]ials 9 col\rs & hung 8 room ) !m :5 compos+ ! music ( ,! ,r+4 ,*op9 says 9 a lett] to a fri5d3 ,aft] work+ at ! piano all day1 ,i f9d t no?+ re/s me s mu* z to get into ! ev5+ dress :i* ,i we> on =mal occasions4 ,9 mon>*ies bas$ on milit>ism1 royal pr9ces1 z soon z !y c walk1 are put into milit>y uni=ms4 ,x cultivates 9 !m ! desir$ milit>y _s4 ,we all associate c]ta9 duties ) c]ta9 co/umes1 & ! extraord9>y response to col\r is famili> to all4 ,we talk ab\t feel+ col\r & say t we c or _c live 9 gre51 blue1 violet or r$4 ,x is well to foll[ ?is col\r in/9ct 9 clo!s z well z 9 furni%+4 ,y w f9d y are at y\r be/ 9 ! col\rs & l9es mo/ sympa!tic to y4 ,we "k a woman :o is an unusual beauty & has di/9ction1 9 fact is not$ = h] *ic :5 9 :ite1 black or ! comb9ation4 ,%e once v5tur$ a c]ise hat & in/antly dropp$ to ! ranks ( ! commonplace4 ,f9e eyes1 hair1 sk91 tee?1 col\r & c>riage 7 /ill h]s1 b h] effectiv5ess 0 less5$ z t ( a pe>l might be if set 9 a coral circle4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,e/abli% ,,habits ,,( ,,c>riage ,,:i* ,,create ,,good ,,l9e ,woman's l9e is ! result ( h] co/ume1 9 "p only4 ,f> m is woman's co/ume affect$ by h] l9e4 ,by ?is we mean ! l9e %e habitually falls into1 ! pose ( torso1 ! l9e ( h] legs 9 action1 & :5 seat$1 h] arms & h&s 9 repose & ge/ure1 ! poise ( h] head4 ,x is woman's l9e result+ f h] habit ( m9d & ! control :i* h] m9d has ov] h] body1 a ?+ q ap>t f ! way ,god made h]1 & ! expression h] body w\ld h _h if left to itself1 ungov]n$ by a m9d /ock$ ) obs]vations1 conv5tions1 exp]i5ce & attitudes4 ,we call ?is ! physical expression ( woman's p]sonality2 ?is p]sonality m\lds h] bodily l9es & if prop]ly direct$ det]m9es ! "* ( ! clo!s %e we>s2 det]m9es also :e!r %e be a decorative object :i* says some?+ 9 l9e & col\r1 or an undecorative object :i* says no?+4 ,,plate ,,viii ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 ! absurdly elaborate co/ume ( ! late ,r5aissance4 ,!n cr9ol9e1 gaudy mat]ials1 & ornam5tations )\t mean+ rea*$ _! high-wat] m>k 9 ! co/um+ ( wom54 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,tudor ,engl& ,portrait ( ,que5 ,elizabe? ,woman to be decorative1 %\ld tra9 ! c>riage ( h] body f *ildhood1 by we>+ appropriate clo?+ = v>i\s daily roles4 ,!re is m 9 ?is ?an at fir/ appe>s4 ,! criticism by =eign]s t ,am]icans1 bo? m5 & wom51 nev] appe> really at home 9 ev5+ clo!s1 t !y look z if !y felt dress$1 is true ( ! av]age man & woman ( our c\ntry & results f ! lax /&>ds ( a new & composite social /ructure4 ,am]ica z a :ole1 lacks traditions & /ill embodies ! pione] _s1 equally *>act]i/ic ( ,au/ralia & o!r (f%oots f ! old _w4 ,! little ,am]ican girl :o is br\ght up f babyhood to *ange = ! ev5+1 ev5 ?\gh %e h a nurs]y tea1 & be all[$ only a brief good-night visit to ! gr[n-ups1 is /ill ! exception r ?an ! rule4 ,a wee ,engli% maid5 we "k1 creat$ a good deal ( amus$ comm5t because1 on sev]al occasions1 :5 pass+ ra9y aft]noons indoors1 ) "s afflu5t little ,new ,york fri5ds1 ^: luxuri\s nurs]ies & m>vell\s me*anical toys 7 a delight1 always insi/$ ^u return+ home1--a block di/ant1--to *ange into :ite be=e p>tak+ ( milk toa/ & jam1 at ! nurs]y table1 ! ,am]ican *ildr5 keep+ on _! p9k & blue l95s ( ! aft]noon4 ,! fact ( :ite or p9k is unimportant1 b our po9t is made :5 we h said t ! "m ( ! ,am]ican *ildr5 con/antly rem>k$ on ! unconsci\s grace ( ! ,engli% tot1 :e!r 9 h] :ite musl9 & p9k ribbons1 h] rid+ clo!s1 or accordion-plait$ danc+ frock4 ,! ,engli% woman-*ild 0 acquir+ decorative l9es by we>+ ! correct co/ume = ea* occasion1 z naturally z a bird we>s its fea!rs4 ,?is is "o way ( obviat+ self-consci\sness4 ,! ,eton boy ma/]s 8 /ick & topp] 9 ! same way1 :5 "y1 & s m easily passes ?r\gh ! =mless /age conspicu\s 9 ! ,am]ican y\?4 ,call x te*nique1 or call x effici5cy1 ! object ( our mod]n life is to excel1 to be ! be/ ( our k9d1 & appropriate dress is a means to t end1 = x helps to lib]ate ! _s4 ,we ( to-day make no claim to consi/5cy or logic4 ,"s ( u we> too high heels1 ev5 ) /rictly tailor$ suits1 :i* dem& 9 ! "n ( consi/5cy a s5sible %oe4 ,also our s5sible skirt may be f> too n>r[ = com=t4 ,b on ! :ole1 wom5 h made great /rides 9 ! matt] ( co/um+ ) a view to appropriat5ess & effici5cy4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,col\r ,,9 ,,woman',s ,,co/ume ,col\r is ! hall-m>k ( our day1 & woman decoratively co/um$1 & z decorator1 w be l>gely responsible = record+ ?is age z "o ( di/9ct importance--a transition p]iod 9 decoration4 ,col\r is ! mo/ m>k$ expression ( ! _s ( ! times2 col\r 9 woman's clo!s2 col\r 9 h\se furni%+2 col\r on ! /age & 9 its sett+2 col\r 9 prose & v]se4 ,speak+ ( col\r 9 v]se1 ,rudy>d ,kipl+ says 7we quote f an editorial 9 ! ,philadelphia ,public ,l$g]1 ,jan4 #g1 #aiag73 ,sev]al songs writt5 by ,tommy & ! ,poilu at ! front1 celebrate ! glories ( camp life 9 su* vivid colors !y c\ld n be reproduc$ 9 cold1 black1 lead5 type4 ,x is no m]e *ance1 ?is use ( vivid col\r4 ,man's psy*ology to-day craves x4 ,a revolution is on4 ,did n ! /rong r$1 gre51 & blue ( ,napoleon's "t foll[ ! delicate sky-blues1 rose & sunset-yell[s ( ! ,l\is8 ,col\r pulses on e side1 /rong1 clean1 cle> ra9b[ col\r1 z if our magicians ( bru% & dye-pot held a prism to ! sun-beam2 violet1 orange & gre51 mag5tas & /rong blue aga9/ backgr\nds ( black & cold grey4 ,we _h come to ?9k ( col\r z vice & _h gr[n s cons]vative 9 its use1 t x _h all b disappe>$ f our p]sons1 our homes1 our g>d5s1 our music & our lit]ature4 ,m ?an ?is1 f our po9t ( view6 ,! reaction 0 b\nd to come by reason ( et]nal prec$5t4 ,half-tones1 antique effects1 & g5]al monotony1--! mat]ial expression ( complac5t m9ds1 has be5 ca/ aside1 & ! blase man ( t5 ye>s ago is z ke5 z any *ild ) 8 fir/ l95 picture book1--& = ! same reason4 ,col\r1 z we see x to-day1 came out ( ! ,ea/ via ,p]sia4 ,bak/ 9 ,russia translat$ x into t]ms ( art1 & made ! ,ballet ,russe an amaz+1 en?rall+ vision6 ,!n ,poiret1 wiz>d among ,fr5* c\turi]es1 assi/$ by ,bak/1 adapt$ ?is ,ori5tal col\r & l9e to woman's uses 9 private life4 ,?is supplem5t$ ! good "w ( le ,gazette du ,bon ,ton ( ,p>is1 t effete fa%ion %eet1 devot$ to ! decoration ( woman1 ^: /aff includ$ _m ( ! mo/ gift$ ,fr5* arti/s1 ma/]s ( bru% & p54 ,always irregul>1 no issue ( ! ,bon ,ton has appe>$ ( late4 ,x is held up by ! w>4 ,! m5 :o made x s fasc9at+ a guide to woman :o w\ld be decorative1 are at ! front1 pa9t+ sc5]y = ! battlefield--lit]ally t3 mak+ mock trees & rocks1 grass & h$ges & e>?1 to mislead ! fire ( ! enemy1 & d\btless ! k9dr$ ,muni* art has be5 div]t$ into simil> *annels4 ,?is ,ori5tal col\r has made its way across ,europe l "s gorge\s bird ( ! tropics1 & s9ce ! w> has *eck$ ! output ( ,europe's factories1 ano!r *annel has suppli$ ! same wond]ful col\rs 9 silks & gauze4 ,!y come to u by way ( ! ,pacific1 f ,*9a & f ,japan4 ,!re is no escap+ ! col\r spell4 ,writ]s f ! front tell u t x is z if ! gods made sport ) fate's anvil1 = ev5 ! black5$ dome ( ! w> zone is lurid by night1 ) sp>ks ( purple1 r$1 gre51 yell[ & blue2 ! fl>e ( ! _w-de/roy+ projectiles4 ,,plate ,,ix ,a ,velasquez portrait ( ! ,r5aissance1 :5 ! human =m c\nt$ only z a rack on :i* 0 heap$ cr9ol9e & /iff brocades & *a9s & gems & wigs & e mann] ( elaborate adornm5t1 mak+ m\nta9s ( poor tott]+ human =ms1 all b lo/ b5ea?4 ,illu/ration3 ,vi5na ,h(museum ,spa9-,velasquez ,portrait ,! pres5t co/um+ ( woman1 :5 %e treats h]self z decoration1 owes mu* to ! prophets ( ! new !atre & _! col\r scale4 ,^! m5 h demon/rat$1 9 an un=gettable mann]1 ! value ( col\r2 ! dep5d5ce ( e decorative object ^u backgr\nd2 %[n h[ fraught ) mean+ c be an uncompromis+ outl9e1 & ! sugge/iv5ess ( really significant detail4 ,bak/1 ,rhe9h>dt & ,granville ,b>k] h taught u ! new col\r vocabul>y4 ,gordon ,craig 0 p]haps ! fir/ to %[ u ! /age made sugge/ive by insi/+ on ! importance ( clev] light+ to produce atmosph]e & elim9ation ( uness5tial objects1 ! argum5t ( 8 s*ool be+ t ! too detail$ reproduc+ ( ,nature 7on ! /age7 acts z a *eck to ! imag9ation1 :]eas by ! judici\s selection ( h>monics1 ! imag9ation is /imulat$ to its utmo/ creative capacity4 ,"o detects ?is cre$ to-day 9 c]ta9 /yles ( home decoration 7woman's backgr\nd71 z well z 9 woman's co/umes4 ,portable ,backgr\nds ,! /ag+ ( a rec5t play %[$ m pla9ly ?an any words1 ! importance ( backgr\nd4 ,9 "o ( ! sc5es1 beautiful1 arti/ic g[ns 9 delicate %ades 7 set (f by a room ) wond]ful gre5 walls & woodwork 7mignonette74 ,n[1 s long z ! *>act]s mov$ ab\t ! room1 !y 7 ?r[n into relief mo/ *>m+ly1 b ! mom5t ! wom5 seat$ !mselves on a v light col\r$ & *>act]less *9tz s(a1 !y lo/ _! decorative value4 ,x 0 lack+ 9 h>mony & contra/4 ,! two black s(a cu%ions int5d$ possibly to s]ve z backgr\nd1 be+ small1 in/antly disappe>$ beh9d ! seat$ wom54 ,a s(a ( contra/+ col\r1 or black1 w\ld h look$ bett] 9 ! room1 & s]v$ z imm$iate backgr\nd = g[ns4 ,x might h be5 cov]$ 9 d>k *9tz1 a silk damask 9 "o or sev]al tones1 or a solid col\r1 s9ce ! g[ns 7 ( delicate indef9ite %ades4 ,"o ( ! s(as did h a d>k ,*9ese coat ?r[n ov] ! back1 ) ! int5t1 no d\bt1 ( s]v+ z effective backgr\nd1 b ! po9t seem$ to escape ! da9tily g[n$ "y woman :o p\r$ tea1 = %e fail$ to take advantage ( x1 occupy+ ! opposite end ( ! s(a4 ,a mod]n addition to a woman's toilet is a l>ge squ>e ( *iffon1 edg$ ) n>r[ metal or cry/al fr+e1 or a gold or silv] flexible cord4 ,?is sc>f is always 9 beguil+ contra/ to ! co/ume1 & :5 n be+ worn1 is ?r[n ov] ! *air or end ( s(a aga9/ :i* our lady recl9es4 ,to a c]ta9 degree1 ?is portable backgr\nd makes a woman decorative :5 ! wrong col\r on a *air might conv]t h] lovely g[n into an eyesore4 ,"o woman we "k1 :o has an ,empire room1 admires ! l9es ( h] s(a z furniture1 b feels x ineffective unless "o recl9es a la ,mme4 ,recami]4 ,to obviate ?is difficulty1 %e has _h made a squ>e 7"o & a half y>ds71 ( lovely s(t mauve silk damask1 l9$ ) sat9 *>meuse ( ! same %ade1 & weight$ by long1 heavy tassels1 at ! corn]s2 ?is %e ?r[s ov] ! ,empire roll & a "p ( ! seat1 :i* are done 9 antique gre5 velvet4 ,n[ ! woman seat$ = conv]sation ) arm & elb[ re/+ on ! head1 looks at ease1--a "p ( ! composition4 ,! squ>e ( s(t1 l9$ silk s]ves at o!r times z a c\vrepi$4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,footwe> ,footwe> po9ts ! co/ume2 e *ild %\ld be taught ?is4 ,give mo/ c>eful att5tion to y\r extremities1--%oes1 gloves & hats4 ,! g5ius ( fa%ion's greate/ arti/ c\nts = naught if 8 co/ume may n include hat1 gloves1 %oes1 & we w\ld add1 umbrella1 p>asol1 /ick1 fan1 jewels2 9 fact e detail4 ,if y h ! good s5se to g to "o :o des]v$ly ranks z an au?ority on l9e & col\r 9 woman's co/ume1 h also ! wisdom to get f ?is man or woman n m]ely y\r raim5t2 g f>!r1 & grasp z f> z y are able ! pr9ciples und]ly+ 8 or h] creations4 ,common s5se tells "o t !re mu/ be pr9ciples :i* und]lie ! plann+ ( e hat & g[n1--s]i\s reasons :y c]ta9 l9es1 col\rs & details are employ$4 ,pr9ciples h evolv$ & cl>ifi$ !mselves 9 ! long j\rney :i* textiles1 col\rs & l9es h made1 travell+ d[n ?r\gh ! ages4 ,a great ca!dral1 a beautiful h\se1 a p]fect piece ( furniture1 a portrait by a ma/]1 sculpture :i* is an object ( art1 a co/ume proclaim$ z a success2 all are ! results ( kn[+ & foll[+ laws4 ,! clev] woman ( sl5d] means may rival h] fri5ds ) munition incomes1 if only %e w g to an exp]t ) op5 m9d1 & ?r\gh ! ?\ghtful pur*ase ( a complet$ co/ume1--hat1 g[n & all accessories1--le>n an arti/-modi/e's po9t ( view4 ,!n1 & we w\ld put x 9 italics2 take s]i\sly1 ) conviction1 all 8 or h] in/ructions z to ! way to we> y\r clo!s4 ,anyone c buy co/umes1 _m c1 p]haps own f> m ?an y1 b x is q possible t no "o c m surely be a picture--a delightfully decorative object on e occasion1 ?an y1 :o kn[s in/9ctively 7or has be5 taught71 beyond all %ad[ ( d\bt1 h[ to put on & !n h[ to sit or walk 91 y\r "o tailor$ suit1 y\r "o tea g[n1 y\r "o sport suit or ball g[n4 ,,plate ,x ,an ideal example ( ! typical co/ume ( fa%ionable ,engl& 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 :5 picturesqu5ess1 n appropriat5ess1 0 ! dem& ( ! times4 ,?is picture is kn[n z ,,! ,,morn+ ,,prom5ade3 ,,squire ,,hallet ,,) ,,8 ,,lady4 ,pa9t$ by ,?omas ,ga9sbor\gh & n[ 9 ! private collection ( ,"l ,ro?s*ild1 ,london4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,braun ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,london ,p>is ,eighte5? ,c5tury ,engl& ,portrait by ,?omas ,ga9sbor\gh ,if y want to we> light spats1 /op & ?9k :e!r y\r heavy ankles w n look m trim 9 boots ) light1 glove-fitt+ tops & black vamps4 ,we h se5 wom5 ) su* sl5d] ankles & %apely in/eps1 t :ite slipp]s or l[ %oes might be worn ) black or col\r$ /ock+s4 ,b x is play+ safe to h y\r /ock+s mat* y\r slipp]s or %oes4 ,buckles & b[s on slipp]s & pumps c de/roy ! l9e ( a %oe & h5ce a foot1 or cont9ue & acc5tuate l9e4 ,!re are fa%ions 9 buckles & b[s1 b unless y b5d ! fa%ion until x all[s nature's "w to appe> at its be/1 x w de/roy arti/ic int5tion4 ,"s p buy footwe> z !y buy fruit2 !y l :at !y see1 s !y get x6 ,y "k s _m wom51 "y & old1 :o d ?is1 t our advice is1 try to recall ^? :o d n4 ,yes1 n[ y see :at we aim at2 ! wom5 y h 9 m9d always cont9ue ! l9e ( _! g[ns ) _! feet4 ,y c see ) y\r m9d's eye h[ ! sl5d] black sat9 slipp]s1 "o ( :i* always protrudes f ! black ev5+ g[n1 c>ry to its eloqu5t f9i% ! l9e f h] head ?r\gh torso1 hip to knee1 & knee d[n ?r\gh in/ep to toe1--a l9e s frequ5tly ob/ruct$ by s5seless trimm+s1 l9eless hats1 & footwe> wrong 9 col\r & l9e4 ,if y\r g[n is :ite & y\r object to create l9e1 c y see h[ y defeat y\r purpose by we>+ any?+ b :ite slipp]s or %oes8 ,at a rec5t d9n] "o ( ! "y wom5 :o _h suffici5t good ta/e to we> an exquisite g[n ( silk & silv] gauze1 %[+ a pale mag5ta gr\nd ) silv] roses1 cont9u$ ! col\r s*eme ( h] design] ) silv] slipp]s1 tap]+ z ,c9d]ella's1 b spoil$ ! picture %e might h made by break+ h] l9e & enl>g+ h] ankles & in/ep ) mag5ta /ock+s4 ,?is c\ld h be5 avoid$ by ! use ( silv] /ock+s or mag5ta slipp]s ) mag5ta /ock+s4 ,:5 brocades1 9 sev]al col\rs1 are *os5 = slipp]s1 keep 9 m9d t ! gr\nd ( ! silk mu/ absolutely mat* y\r co/ume4 ,x is n en\gh t 9 ! figure ( brocade is ! col\r ( ! dress4 ,because s di/ort+ to l9e1 figur$ silks & col\r$ brocades = footwe> are seldom a wise *oice4 ,to ^? :o _c own a mat* 9 slipp]s = ea* g[n1 we w\ld sugge/ t ! numb] ( col\rs us$ 9 g[ns be b few1 gett+ ! desir$ v>iety by v>y+ %ades ( a col\r1 & !n us+ slipp]s a trifle high] 9 %ade ?an ! g5]al col\r select$4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,jewelry ,,z ,,decoration ,! use ( jewelry z col\r & l9e has really no?+ to d ) its intr9sic wor?4 ,j z :5 furni%+ a h\se1 "o selects pictures = c]ta9 rooms ) reg>d to _! decorative quality alone1 _! col\r ) relation to ! col\r s*eme ( ! room 7,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration71 s jewels %\ld be select$ ei!r to complete co/umes1 or to give ! keynote ^u :i* a co/ume is built4 ,a woman ^: arti/-dressmak] turns out = h] a m>vell\s gre5 g[n1 w\ld f> bett] c>ry out ! col\r s*eme ) "s semi-preci\s /ones ?an insi/ ^u we>+ h] priceless rubies4 ,on ! o!r h&1 grant$ "o owns rubies & !y are becom+1 !n plan a g[n entirely ) ref]5ce to !m1 not+ n m]ely ! %ade ( _! col\r1 b ! "* ( _! sett+1 %\ld x be di/9ctive4 ,"o ( ! mo/ picturesque public ev5ts 9 ,vi5na ea* ye>1 is a baza> held = ! b5efit ( a *>ity "u c\rt patronage4 ,to draw ! cr[ds & induce !m to give up _! money1 x has always be5 ! cu/om to adv]tise widely t ! ladies ( ! ,au/ro-,hung>ian c\rt w\ld conduct ! sale ( articles at ! v>i\s boo?s & t ! said noble ladies w\ld we> _! family jewels4 ,also1 t !re be no dang] ( confus+ ! v>i\s celebrities1 ! names ( ^? sell+ at ea* boo? w\ld be po/$ 9 pla9 lett]+ ov] x4 ,programmes are sold1 :i* also in=m patrons z to ! "n & /ation ( ea* lovely v5dor ( fl[]s & sweets4 ,x is an extraord9>y occasion1 & well wor? witness+ once4 ,! jewels worn are z amaz+ & fasc9at+ z is ,hung>ian music4 ,!re is a b>b>ic sumptu\sness ab\t !m1 an elem5tal quality convey$ by ! ,ori5tal comb9+ ( /ones1 :i* to ! we/]n ,european & ,am]ican1 seem incongru\s4 ,enorm\s pe>ls1 regul> & irregul>1 are set toge!r 9 company ) huge sapphires1 em]alds1 rubies & diamonds1 cut 9 ! antique way4 ,look+ ab\t1 "o feels 9 an ,arabian ,nights' dream4 ,on ! p>ticul> occasion to :i* we ref]1 ! mo/ beautiful woman pres5t 0 ! ,pr9cess ,mett]ni*1 & 9 h] jewels decorative z any woman ev] se54 ,! wom5 ( ! ,au/rian c\rt1 especially ! ,hung>ian wom51 are notably beautiful & fasc9at+ z well4 ,x is ! ,magy> elan1 t ab&on :i* prompts a woman to toss h] jewell$ bangle to a ,gypsy lead] ( ! or*e/ra1 :5 8 viol9 moans & fla%es out a cz>das4 ,b ! rule rema9s ! same :e!r y\r jewels are inh]it$ & ri* 9 s\v5irs ( ,european c\rts1 or ! la/ "w ( ,c>ti]4 ,!y mu/ be a h>moni\s "p ( a c>efully design$ co/ume1 or us$ ) discretion aga9/ a backgr\nd ( co/umes plann$ ) ref]5ce to mak+ !m c\nt z ! sole decoration4 ,we recall a ,spani% beauty1 repres5tative ( sev]al noble /ra9s1 :o 0 an arti/ 9 ! comb9+ ( h] gems z to _! class & col\r4 ,h]s 0 t r>e gift1--infallible good ta/e1 :i* l$ h] to contribute an individual quality to h] tempor>y possessions4 ,%e c\nt$ 9 ,madrid1 n only z a beautiful & brilliant woman1 b z a decorative contribution to any room %e ent]$4 ,x 0 n uncommon to meet h] at d9n]1 we>+ "s v *ic blue g[n1 (t5 ( velvet1 ! sole decoration ( :i* w\ld be h] sapphires1 /ones r>e 9 !mselves1 fam\s = _! col\r1 _! mat*+1 ! mann] 9 :i* !y 7 cut1 & _! sett+1--! unique h&-"w ( "s goldsmi? ( g5ius4 ,x is impossible to =get h] di/+ui%$ appe>ance z %e ent]$ ! room 9 a pr9cess g[n1 made to %[ ! outl9e ( h] faultless figure1 & cut v l[4 ,aga9/ ! backgr\nd ( h] :ite neck & ! simple l9es ( h] blue g[n1 ! sapphires became decoration ) arti/ic re/ra9t1 ?\gh !y gleam$ f a coronet 9 h] s(t1 black hair1 encircl$ h] neck _m times & fell bel[ h] wai/ l9e1 clasp$ h] arms & 7 susp5d$ f h] e>s 9 long1 graceful p5dants4 ,!y adorn$ h] f+]s & !y compos$ a girdle ( indescribable beauty4 ,,plate ,,xi ,,m>ie ,,anto9ette ,,9 ,a ,,portrait ,,by ,,madame ,,vigee ,,le ,,brun1 "o ( ! greate/ portrait pa9t]s ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,"h we see ! lovely que5 ( ,l\is ,,xvi 9 ! type ( co/ume %e made h] own :i* is /ill ref]r$ to z ! ,m>ie ,anto9ette /yle4 ,?is portrait is 9 ! ,musee ,national1 ,v]sailles4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,braun ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,london ,p>is ,b\rbon ,france ,m>ie ,anto9ette ,portrait by ,madame ,vigee ,le ,brun ,lat]1 ! same night1 "o w\ld meet ?is woman at a ball1 & discov] t %e _h made a complete *ange ( co/ume & 0 z elegant z be=e1 b n[ all 9 r$1 a g[n ( deep r$ velvet or "s wond]ful s(t sat91 unadorn$ save by h] rubies1 z num]\s & z unique z h] sapphires _h be54 ,!re 7 o!r wom5 9 ,madrid we>+ wond]ful jewels1 "o ( !m :5 go+ to c\rt functions always _h a c>riage foll[ h]s1 9 :i* 7 detectives4 ,h[ /range ?is seems to ,am]icans6 ,b ?is p>ticul> woman 9 no way illu/rat$ ! po9t we w\ld make1 = %e _h lo/ control ( h] own l9es1 _h no k ( l9e & col\r 9 co/ume1 & :5 we>+ h] jewels1 look$ v mu* l ! %[ case ( a jewell]'s %op4 ,jewelry mu/ be worn to make l9es1 cont9ue or t]m9ate l9es1 acc5tuate a good physical po9t1 or hide a bad "o4 ,rememb] t a jewel l any o!r object d'art1 is an ornam5t1 & unless x is ornam5tal1 & an add$ attraction to ! we>]1 x is valueless 9 a decorative way4 ,= ?is reason x is well to discov]1 by exp]im5t+1 :at jewelry is y\r affair1 :at k9d ( r+s = example1 are be/ suit$ to y\r k9d ( h&s4 ,x may be t small r+s ( delicate workman%ip1 set ) col\rless gems1 w suit y\r h&s2 :ile y\r fri5d w look bett] 9 ! l>g]1 heavi] sort1 set ) /ones ( deep] tones4 ,?is f9d+ out :at "o c & _c we>1 f %oe lea!r to a fea!r 9 ! hat 7& ! inv5tory includes ev5 wid? ( hem on a l95 h&k]*ief71 is by no means a frivol\s1 fruitless wa/e ( "t2 x is a wise prep>$ness1 :i* 9 ! end saves "t1 vitality & money4 ,& if x does n make "o indep5d5t ( exp]t advice 7& :y %\ld "o expect to be t1 s9ce te*nique 9 any art %\ld improve ) practice87 x c]ta9ly prep>es "o to grasp & make use (1 exp]t sugge/ions4 ,we h (t5 be5 told1 & by ^? ^: bus9ess x is to "k su* ?+s1 t ! models creat$ by great ,p>is dressmak]s are n always fla%es ( g5ius :i* come 9 ! night1 nor ! wilful p]v]sion ( an exi/+ fa%ion1 to =ce ! _w ( wom5 into disc>d+1 & buy+ ev]y?+ new4 ,x may look suspici\sly l x :5 we see a m]e sw+ ( ! p5dulum c>ry+ ! /raight %ea? out to ! t5-y>d limit ( cr9ol9e skirts4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 decorative woman rules ! fa%ions1 & if decorative woman makes up h] m9d to reta9 a l9e or a limit1 %e does x4 ,! op5 secret is t e great ,p>is h\se has its *ic cli5tele1 :i* 9 return+ f ! ,rivi]a--,europe's ,peacock ,alley--is full ( k z to h[ ! la/ fa%ions 7l9e & col\r71 succe$$ 9 scor+ 9 ! role designat$4 ,^? po9ts f\nd to be desirable1 becom+1 beautiful1 com=table1 appropriate1 s$uisant--:at y w--are tak5 z ! f\ndation ( ! next w>drobe ord]1 & ) ?is inside in=mation f wom5 :o "k 7"k ! subtle di/9ction betwe5 d>+ l9es & col\rs1 :i* are good =m1 & ^? :i* are n71 ! m5 or wom5 :o give _! lives to creat+ co/umes proce$ to build4 ,^! are ! fa%ions = ! exclusive few ?is ye>1 = ! :ole _w ! next ye>4 ,9 conclusion1 to r$uce "o ( ! rules z to h[ jewels %\ld be worn to its simple/ =m1 nev] use imitation pe>l trimm+ if y are we>+ a necklace & o!r ornam5ts ( real pe>ls4 ,! pe>l trimm+ may be v *>m+ 9 itself1 b x less5s ! di/9ction ( y\r real pe>ls4 ,9 ! same way rh9e/ones may be decid$ly decorative1 b only a woman ) an arti/'s in/9ct c use h] diamonds at ! same "t4 ,x c be done1 by keep+ ! rh9e/ones (f ! bodice4 ,an arti/ c conceive & "w out a p]fect adju/m5t ( :at 9 ! m9d & h& ( ! inexp]i5c$ is n to be attempt$4 ,y\r ,fr5* dressmak] comb9es real & imitation laces 9 a fasc9at+ mann]4 ,t same arti/'s in/9ct c\ld trim a g[n ) em]ald pa/es & hang real gems ( ! same 9 ! e>s1 us+ broo* & *a91 b y w\ld f9d ! gre5 glass g>niture swept f ! proximity ( ! gems & us$ 9 "s tell+ mann] to score z trimm+1--n to compete z jewels4 ,we h se5 ! skirt ( ,fr5* g[ns ( black tulle or net1 caught up ) great rh9e/one swans1 & at ! same "t a diamond *a9 & diamond e>r+s worn4 ,no?+ c\ld h be5 m *ic4 ,we recall ano!r case ( ! discreet comb9+ ( gems & pa/e4 ,x 0 at ! ,spr+ races1 ,long*amps1 ,p>is4 ,! decorative woman we h nev] =gott51 _h m>vell\s gold-r$ hair1 wore a co/ume ( gold5 br[n *iffon1 a close toque 7to %[ h] hair7 ( br[n2 long topaz drops hung f h] e>s1 set 9 h&-wr\ght ,etruscan gold1 & h] %ell lorgnettes hung f a topaz *a94 ,n[ note t on h] toque & h] girdle 7 buckles made ( topaz glass1 obvi\sly n real topaz & because made to look l mill9]'s g>niture & n jewel]'s "w1 !y _h great /yle & 7 z beautiful ( _! k9d z ! real /ones4 ,,plate ,,xii ,! portrait ( an ,engli%woman pa9t$ dur+ ! ,napoleonic p]iod4 ,%e we>s ! typical ,empire g[n1 cloak1 & bonnet4 ,! orig9al ( ?is portrait is ! same ref]r$ to else:]e z hav+ moi/5$ h] musl9 g[ns to make !m cl+ to h]1 9 ,grecian folds4 ,among h] admir+ fri5ds 0 ,"l ,byron4 ,a desc5dant :o all[s ! use ( ! *>m+ portrait1 expla9s t ! fair lady insi/$ ^u be+ pa9t$ 9 h] bonnet because h] curl+ locks 7 %ort--a result ( typhoid fev]4 ,illu/ration3 ,co/ume ( ,empire ,p]iod ,an ,engli% ,portrait ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,b\doir ,by ! way1 d y "k t b\doir orig9ally meant p\t+ room1 a place :]e ! c]emoni\s gr&e dame ( ! ,l\is might relax & express a ruffl$ mood1 if %e w\ld8 ,:i* only s]ves to prove t ev5 ! def9ition ( words alt] ) fa%ion1 = we imag9e t our sup9ely relax$ mod]n beauty1 ( ! c\ntry club type1 has on ! :ole m self-control ?an %e ( ! b\doir age4 ,s9ce a b\doir is ( all rooms ! mo/ p]sonal1 we take x = grant$ t its decoration is eloqu5t ) ! individuality & ta/e ( its own]4 ,walls1 floors1 woodwork1 uphol/]y1 hang+s1 cu%ions & objects d'art furni% ! col\r = my lady's backgr\nd1 & w naturally be a s*eme calculat$ to set (f h] own p>ticul> type4 ,"h we f9d woman easily made decorative 9 negligee or tea g[n1 & x makes no diff]5ce :e!r fa%ion is = volum9\s1 fl[+ robes1 ruffl$ & cov]$ ) ribbons & lace1 or ! o!r extreme1 ^? creations ( ,=tuny1 :i* cl+ to ! =m 9 long cr9kl$ l9es & %imm] l ! sk9 ( a snake4 ,! ,=tuny 9 "q1 son ( ! great ,spani% pa9t]1 devotes 8 "t to ! design+ ( ! mo/ arti/ic & unique tea g[ns (f]$ to mod]n woman4 ,we fir/ saw 8 "w 9 #aiaj at 8 ,p>is ateli]4 ,8 g[ns1 !n popul> ) ,fr5* wom51 7 made 9 ,v5ice1 :]e ,m4 ,=tuny 0 at t "t employ+ "s five hundr$ wom5 to c>ry out 8 ideas z to ! dye+ ( ?9 silks1 ! mak+ & col\r+ ( beads us$ z g>niture1 & ! /5cil+ ( designs 9 gold1 silv] or col\r4 ,! l9es are ,grecian & a woman 9 h] ,=tuny tea g[n sugge/s a ,tanagra figure1 :e!r %e goes 9 = ! f9ely pleat$ sort1 kept tightly twi/$ & coil$ :5 n 9 use1 to pres]ve ! di/+ui%+ f9e pleats1 or "o ) smoo? surface & /5cil$ designs4 ,^! ,=tuny tea g[ns slip ov] ! head ) no op5+ b ! neck1 ) its silk %irr+ cord by means ( :i* x c be made high or l[1 at w2 !y come 9 black1 gold & ! tones ( old ,v5etian dyes4 ,"o c\ld use a doz5 ( !m & be a picture ea* "t1 9 any sett+1 ?\gh = ! epicure !y are at _! be/ :5 *os5 ) relation to a special backgr\nd4 ,! black ,=tunys are extraord9>ily *ic & look well :5 worn ) long ,ori5tal e>r+s & neck *a9s ( l9ks or beads1 :i* rea*--at lea/ "o /r& ( !m--half-way to ! knees4 ,! di/9ction :i* ?is long l9e ( a *a9 or /r+ ( pe>ls gives to ! figure ( any woman is a po9t to dwell ^u4 ,real pe>ls are desirable1 ev5 if "o mu/ beg9 ) a %ort necklace2 b :]e x c be af=d$1 woman _c be urg$ too /rongly to we> a /r+ ext5d+ z ne> to & z mu* bel[ ! wai/-l9e z possible4 ,a long /r+ ( pe>ls gives great elegance1 :e!r we>] is /&+ or seat$4 ,y c use y\r %ort /r+ ( pe>ls1 too1 b :atev] y\r figure is1 if y are n a "y girl x w be improv$ by ! long l9e1 & if y w\ld be decorative above ev]y?+1 we insi/ t a long *a9 or /r+ ( less intr9sic value is pref]able to "o ( mean+less l5g? & priceless wor?4 ,v "y girls look be/ 9 %ort necklaces2 wom5 ^: ?roats are gett+ l9$ %\ld take to jewel$ dog-coll>s1 9 addition to _! /r+s ( pe>ls or diamond *a9s4 ,! woman ) firm ?roat & p]fect neck 0 made = pe>ls4 ,= ^? less bless$ !re are lovely ?+s too1 jewels to mat* _! eyes1 or to tone 9 ) sk9 or hair2 sett+s to c>ry out ! l9e ( pr(ile1 r+s to illum9ate ! swift ge/ure or ne/le into ! s(t1 :ite1 dimpl$ h& ( in]tia4 ,e type has its *>m & foll[]s1 b we /ill say1 avoid emphasis+ y\r lack ( c]ta9 po9ts by we>+ unsuitable co/umes & accessories1 & by s do+ lose ! *ance ( be+ decorative4 ,sibyl ,s&]son1 ! ,am]ican prima donna1 ^: c>e] 0 9 ,p>is1 0 ! mo/ irresi/ibly lovely vision ev] se5 9 a tea g[n4 ,%e 0 pa/-mi/ress at ! art ( mak+ h]self decorative1 & ! writ] recalls h] z %e la/ saw h] 9 a ,d\cet model ( *iffon1 "o lay] ov] ano!r ( fle%1 pale/ p9k & p9ki% mauve t melt$ into ! creamy tones ( h] p]fect neck & arms4 ,sibyl ,s&]son 0 lovely z nature turn$ h] out1 b ,p>is taught h] ! value ( t o!r beauty1 ! beauty :i* comes ( art & atta9$ l all art1 only ?r\gh consci\s ef=t4 ,an arti/ic appe>ance once meant lett+ nature h its way4 ,x has come to mean1 nature direct$ & controll$ by ,art1 & :ile we d n resort to ! artificiality 79 ?is mom5t7 ( hoops1 cr9ol9e1 pyramids ( false hair1 mon/r\s head-dresses1 lac$ wai/s1 l[ neck & %ort sleeves = all h\rs & all seasons1 pap]-sol$ %oes 9 sn[-drifts1 etc41 we d insi/ t woman be bi5 so9e--hair1 complexion1 h&s1 feet1 figure1 p]fection p> t\t4 ,woman's co/umes1 h] jewels & all accessories complete h] decorative effect1 b ev5 9 ! age ( p[d] & pat*es1 hair oil & wigs1 no m "t nor great] c>e 0 giv5 to h] groom+1 & :at we say applies to ! av]age woman ( affairs & n m]ely to ! p>asite type4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,sun-,,room ,a sun-room z ! "n implies1 is a room plann$ to admit z mu* sun z is possible4 ,an easy way to get ! greate/ am\nt ( light & sun is to enclose a /eam heat$ por* ) glass :i* may be remov$ at w4 ,sometimes "p ( a cons]vatory is turn$ into a sun-room1 awn+s1 rugs1 *airs1 tables1 c\*es1 mak+ x a fasc9at+ l\nge or breakfa/ room1 useful1 too1 at ! tea h\r4 ,(t5 :5 build+ a h\se a room on ! sunny side is giv5 "o1 two1 or ?ree glass sides4 ,to trick ! s5ses1 f]ns & fl[]+ plants1 birds & f\nta9s are us$ z decorations1 sugge/+ out-(-doors4 ,,plate ,,xiii ,portrait by ,gilb]t ,/u>t ( ,dona ,matilda1 ,/\ghton de ,jaud5es4 7,metropolitan ,museum47 ,we use ?is portrait to illu/rate ! p]iod :5 woman's l9e 0 oblit]at$ by ! excessive decoration ( h] co/ume4 ,! int]e/ atta*$ to ?is *>m+ example ( h] "t lies 9 col\r & detail4 ,x is z if ! bewit*+ ,dona ,matilda 7 hold+ up h] clo!s ) h] p]son4 ,h] outl9e is t ( a ruffl$ can>y4 ,h[ difficult = h] to =get h] mat]ial trapp+s1 :5 !y are s _m1 & yet %e looks light ( he>t4 ,= %>p contra/ we sugge/ t our read] turn at once to ! portrait by ,s>g5t 7,plate ,,xv7 :i* is di/+ui%$ = its clean-cut outl9e & also ! di/9ction arriv$ at ?r\gh elim9ation ( detail 9 ! way ( trimm+4 ,! co/ume hangs on ! woman1 susp5d$ by jewell$ *a9s f h] %\ld]s4 ,! ,s>g5t has ! simplicity ( ! ,classic ,greek2 ! ,gilb]t ,/u>t portrait1 ! amus+ fasc9ation ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette detail4 ,! g[n is :ite sat91 ) small gold fl[]s scatt]$ ov] its surface4 ,! head-dress surm\nt+ ! p[d]$ hair is ( :ite sat9 ) se$-pe>l ornam5ts4 ,! backgr\nd is a dead-rose velvet curta91 drap$ to %[ blue sky1 veil$ by cl\ds4 ,! same dead-rose on table & *air cov]+4 ,! book on table has a s(tly ton$ calf cov]4 ,gilb]t ,/u>t 0 fond ( work+ 9 ?is p>ticul> col\r note4 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,eighte5? ,c5tury ,co/ume ,portrait by ,gilb]t ,/ew>t ,! woman :o w\ld add to ! *>m ( h] sun-room 9 ,w9t] by keep+ up ! illusion ( ,summ]1 w we> ,summ] clo!s :5 9 x1 t is1 ! same g[ns1 hats & footwe> :i* %e w\ld select = a w>m climate4 ,to be exquisite1 if y are "y or y\ngi%1 well & active1 y w\ld naturally appe> 9 ! sun-room aft] elev51 9 "s %e] mat]ial ( a delicate t9t1 made walk+ l5g?1 ) any graceful ,summ] hat :i* is becom+1 & ei!r h>monises ) col\r ( g[n or is an agreeable contra/ to x4 ,by graceful hat we mean a hat sugge/+ repose1 n ! close1 tailor$ hat ( action4 ,"o woman we "k always uses h] la/ ,summ]'s musl9s & wa% silks1 %oes1 slipp]s & hats 9 h] sun-room dur+ ! ,w9t]4 ,9 h] w>drobe !re are inv>iably a lot ( %e] musl9s1 voiles & wa% silks 9 :ite1 mauve1 greys1 p9ks1 or delicate /ripes1 ! outl9e foll[+ ! fa%ion1 volum9\s1 /raight or cl++1 ! bodice tight ) trimm+s inset or full1 b]uffl$1 or k]*ief$4 ,h] hats are always entirely black or entirely :ite1 9 type ! v>iety we "k z picturesque1 made v light 9 weight & ) no ?\ght ( )/&+ ! elem5ts4 ,! woman :o kn[s h[1 c get ! effect ( a picture hat ) v little outlay ( money4 ,x is a matt] ( l9e :5 on ! head1 t look ( lightness & g5]al air9ess :i* gives "o ! feel+ t ! we>] has j bl[n 9 f ! lawn6 ,! arti/'s h& c place a few simple loops ( ribbon on a hat1 & h success1 :ile a /upid arrangem5t ( co/ly fea!rs or fl[]s may result 9 failure4 ,! effect ( movem5t got by c]ta9 l9e manipulation1 sugge/+ arre/$ motion1 is ( ine/imable value1 especially :5 y\r hat is "o ) any consid]able wid? ( brim4 ,! hat ) movem5t is l a free-h& sket*1 a hat )\t movem5t l a decalcomania4 ,if ! own] ( ! sun-room is re/+ or invalid$ !n away ) out-(-door co/ume4 ,= h] a tea-g[n & sat9 slipp]s are 9 ord]1 z !y w\ld be "u simil> conditions on h] furni%$ por*4 ,if ! mi/ress ( ! sun-room is "y & a?letic1 "o :o nev] goes 9 = fr\-fr\s1 b we>s l95 skirts & bl\ses :5 p\r+ tea = h] fri5ds1 let h] be true to h] type 9 ! sun-room1 b always emphasis+ immaculate da9t9ess1 r ?an ! ready-=-sport note4 ,a %e] bl\se & ,fr5* heels on :ite pumps w transpose ! pla9 l95 skirt into ! key ( picturesque relaxation1 ! hall-m>k ( sun-rooms4 ,m ?an any o!r room 9 ! h\se1 ! sun-room is = drift+4 ,"o _c imag9e writ+ a *eque !re1 or go+ ov] "o's mon?ly acc\nts4 ,we assume t ! col\r s*eme 9 ! sun-room 0 dictat$ by ! own] & is !re=e sympa!tic to h]4 ,if ?is be true1 we c g f>!r & assume t ! delicate tones ( h] por* g[ns & tea g[ns w h>monise4 ,if h] sun-room is done 9 yell[s & orange & gre5s1 no?+ w look bett] ?an cream-:ite z a co/ume4 ,if ! walls1 woodwork & furniture h be5 kept v light 9 tone1 rely+ on ! rugs & cu%ions & d>k foliage ( plants to give "*1 !n a co/ume ( %e] mat]ial 9 any "o ( ! decid$ col\rs 9 ! *9tz cu%ions1 w be a welcome contribution to ! decoration ( ! sun-room4 ,additional effect c be giv5 a co/ume by ! clev] *oice ( col\r & l9e 9 a "w-bag4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,i4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,g>d5 ,9 y\r g>d51 if y w\ld c\nt z decoration1 keep to :ite or "o col\r2 ! fl[]s furni% a v>iegat$ backgr\nd aga9/ :i* y\r co/ume ( col\r1 grey or :ite /&s out4 ,! great po9t is t y\r outl9e be "o ) pictorial value1 f ! arti/'s po9t ( view4 ,if m]ely /roll+ ?r\gh y\r g>d5 to admire x1 keep+ to ! well-made pa?s1 a fragile g[n ( %e] mat]ial & da9ty %oes1 ) p]i%able hat or fragile sun%ade1 is 9 ord]4 ,b if y\rs is ! task to ga!r fl[]s1 !n we> /\t l95 or pretty1 bright g+hams1 good to ! eye & easily laund]$1 :ile resi/+ ! bri>s & bran*es4 ,smocks1 ^? loose ov]-all g>m5ts ( s(t-ton$ l95s1 rea*+ f neck half-way to ! knees & unbelt$1 are ideal = g>d5 "w1 & to ! "y & sl5d]1 add a di/9ct *>m1 = "o cat*es ! movem5t ( ! li! =m b5ea?4 ,y c be decorative 9 y\r g>d5 9 a l>ge envelop+ apron ( g+ham1 if y are wise 9 *oos+ a col\r :i* becomes y4 ,"o lov] ( fl[]s1 :o has an in/9ct = fitness & col\r1 may be se5 on a ,summ] morn+1 trimm+ h] por*-boxes 9 sn[y :ite1--%oes & all1--ov] :i* %e we>s a big1 encircl+ apron1 ext5d+ f neck to skirt hem2 deep pockets cross ! entire front1 conv5i5t = clipp]s1 scissors & tw9e4 ,?is apron is l[-neck$ ) %\ld] /raps & no sleeves4 ,! woman 9 "q is tall & fair1 & on h] s(t curl+ hair %e we>s sun hats ( peanut /raw1 ! edges sewn ov] & ov] ) wool to mat* h] g+ham apron1 :i* is a solid p9k1 pale gre5 or lav5d]4 ,d>k wom5 look uncommonly well 9 khaki col\r1 & s d "s blonds4 ,"h is a %ade decorative aga9/ vegetation & s]viceable above all4 ,g>d5 co/umes = actual "w v>y accord+ to individual ta/e & ! am\nt & "* ( ! g>d5+ indulg$ 94 ,lady de ,ba! 7,mrs4 ,langtry7 owns "o ( ! mo/ *>m+ g>d5s 9 ,engl&1 ?\gh n z fam\s z "s4 ,x is atta*$ to ,regal ,lodge1 h] place at ,newm>ket4 ,! ,blue ,walk is some?+ to rememb]1 ) its walls ( blue lav5d] flank+ ! blue pav+ /ones1 betwe5 ! cracks ( :i* lovely bluebells & l>kspur spr+ up 9 irrelevant1 poetic lic5se4 ,lady de ,ba! digs & climbs & clips & ga!rs1 !re=e %e we>s easily laund]$ g>m5ts2 a :ite l95 or cotton skirt & bl\se1 a ,*9ese coat to ! knees1 ( p9k cotton crepe & an ,isle-(-,j]sey sun-bonnet1 a poke ) curta91 to protect ! neck & /r+s to tie x on4 ,s :ile %e claims nev] to h consci\sly consid]$ be+ a decorative note 9 h] own g>d51 h] tra9$ in/9ct = co/um+ h]self appropriately & becom+ly br+s ab\t ! desirable decorative effect4 ,,plate ,,xiv ,madame ,adel9e ,g5ee1 ! greate/ liv+ expon5t ( ! art ( toe danc+4 ,%e we>s an e>ly ,victorian co/ume 7#ahdj7 made = a ballet %e danc$ 9 ,london sev]al seasons ago4 ,! writ] did n see ! co/ume & neglect$1 until too late1 to ask ,madame ,g5ee = a description ( its col\r+1 b judg+ by :at we "k ( #ahdj col\rs & textures z describ$ by ,miss ,mc,clellan 7,hi/oric ,dress 9 ,am]ica7 & o!r hi/orians ( ! p]iod z well z f portraits1 we feel safe 9 /at+ t x may well h be5 a bonnet ( p9k uncut velvet1 trimm$ ) silk fr+e & a b& ( braid$ velvet ( ! same col\r2 or p]haps a :ite %irr$ sat92 or dove-col\r$ sat9 ) pale p9k & gre5 figur$ ribbon4 ,= ! dress1 x may h be5 ( dove-grey sat91 or p9k fl[]$ silk ) a black taffeta cape & "o ( black lace to *ange (f )4 ,illu/ration3 ,victorian ,p]iod ab\t #ahdj ,mme4 ,adel9e ,g5ee 9 ,co/ume ,,ii4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,on ,,! ,,lawn ,:5 on y\r lawn ) ! unbrok5 sweep ( gre5 "u foot & ! backgr\nd ( %rubs & trees1 be a fl[] or a bun* ( fl[]s 9 ! col\r ( y\r co/ume4 ,:ite1--hat1 %oes & all1 _c be excell$1 b col\r has *>m ( ano!r sort1 & turn+ ! pages ( memory1 "o realises t n a %ade or arti/ic comb9ation b has scor$1 if ! outl9e is *ic4 ,s9ce bo? outl9e & col\r s*eme v>y ) fa%ion we use ! ^w *ic or sm>t to imply t quality 9 a co/ume :i* is ! result ( re/ra9t 9 ! h&l+ ( l9e1 col\r & all details1 :atev] ! p]iod4 ,a *ic outl9e is v tell+ on ! lawn2 g[n or hat mu/ be appropriate to ! occasion1 becom+ to ! we>]1 its l9es foll[+ ! fa%ion1 yet adapt$ to type1 & ! col\r1 "o sympa!tic to ! we>]4 ,! trimm+ mu/ acc5tuate ! di/9ctive type ( ! g[n or hat in/ead ( blott+ out ! l9es by an ov]abundance ( g>niture4 ,! trimm+ mu/ foll[ ! con/ructive l9es ( g[n1 or h mean+4 ,a buckle mu/ buckle some?+1 buttons mu/ be us$ :]e !re is at lea/ "s semblance ( an op5+4 ,let u repeat3 ,to be *ic1 ! trimm+ ( a hat or g[n mu/ h a raison d'etre4 ,:5 9 d\bt omit trimm+4 ,z 9 int]ior decoration1 too mu* detail (t5 defeats ! orig9al idea ( a co/ume4 ,an obs]v+ woman kn[s t few ( h] k9d und]/& ! value ( re/ra9t4 ,:5 turn$ out by an arti/1 mo/ wom5 recognise :5 !y look _! be/1 b h[ to a*ieve x alone1 is beyond !m4 ,?is sort ( k comes f c>efully & con/antly comp>+ ! g[n :i* is a success ) ^? :i* are failures4 ,elim9ation *>act]ises ! sm>t co/ume or hat1 & ! sm>t design] is he or %e :o c make "o fl[]1 "o fea!r1 "o b[ ( ribbon1 b& ( fur1 bit ( real lace or h& embroid]y1 say a di/9ct some?+4 ,x is ! decorative value ga9$ by ! judici\s plac+ ( "o object s t l9e & col\r c\nt to ! full4 ,z we h said 9 ,int]ior ,decoration1 "o p9k rose 9 a sl5d] ,v5etian glass vase aga9/ a gre5 silk curta9 may h f> m decorative value ?an doz5s ( co/ly roses us$ )\t k ( l9e & backgr\nd4 ,s x is ) ornam5ts on we>+ app>el4 ,,iii4 ,,woman ,,decorative ,,on ,,! ,,bea* ,) a backgr\nd ( grey s&1 /eel-blue wat] & m or less blue sky1 woman is giv5 a tempt+ opportunity to figure z col\r :5 by ! sea4 ,t x is gay col\r or :ite :i* makes decorative effects on ! bea*1 ev5 ! lea/ kn[+ realise4 ,ple9 air arti/s h /amp$ on our m5tal visions impressions ( sm>t society disport+ itself on ! s&s ( ,dieppe1 ,tr\ville1 ,brighton1 & :]e n4 ,:atev] ! p]iod1 h5ce outl9e1 :ite & ! gay col\rs impress "o4 ,mo/ conspicu\s is :ite on woman 7& man72 !n ea* col\r 9 ! ra9b[ ) its half-tones1 figures z sweat]s1 veils1 hats & p>asols2 ! /rip$ m>quise & gay w>es ( ! v5d]s ( nosegays1 balloons & lollypops4 ,! arti/ picks out ! tell+ notes :5 pa9t+1 le>n f him & figure z "o ( ^!4 ,on ! bea* avoid be+ a dull note2 dead greys & br[ns h no *>m !re4 ,:at is true ( co/um+ = ! bea* applies equally to co/umes to be worn on ! deck ( a /eam] or ya*t4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,woman ,,z ,,decoration ,,:5 ,,skat+ ,to be decorative :5 skat+1 two ?+s are necess>y3 fir/1 "k h[ to skate2 !n see to x t y are co/um$ ) ref]5ce to appropriat5ess1 becom+ness & ! outl9e dem&$ by ! fa%ion ( ! mom5t4 ,! woman :o excels 9 ! te*nique ( h] art does n always excel 9 dress+ h] role4 ,x is !re=e ) great en?usiasm t we record ,miss ,!resa ,weld ( ,bo/on1 hold] ( ,woman's ,figure ,skat+ ,*ampion%ip1 z ! mo/ *icly co/um$ woman on ! ice ( ! ,hippodrome 7,new ,york7 :]e amateurs conte/$ = ! cup (f]$ by ,mr4 ,*>les ,b4 ,dill+ham1 on ,m>* #bc1 #aiag1 :5 ,miss ,weld aga9 won1--?is "t ov] ! m5 z well z ! wom54 ,miss ,weld comb9$ good "w ) p]fect =m1 & h] edges1 fronts1 ins1 outs1 ?rees1 d\ble-?rees1 etc41 etc41 7 a delight to ! eye z %e pass$ & repass$ 9 h] w9e-col\r$ velvet1 trimm$ ) mole-sk91 a n>r[ b& on ! bottom ( ! full skirt 7full to all[ ! requir$ am\nt ( leg action71 deep cuffs1 & a b& ( ! same fur encircl+ ! close velvet toque4 ,?is is reproduc$ z ! ideal co/ume because1 :ile absolutely up-to-date 9 l9e1 mat]ial1 col\r & "* ( fur1 x foll[s ! traditional idea z to :at is appropriate & beautiful = a skat+ co/ume1 reg>dless ( epo*4 ,we h se5 its ance/ors 9 _m p>ts ( ,europe1 ye> aft] ye>4 ,"s ( u recall ) ke5 pleasure1 ! wond]ful skat+ 9 ,vi5na & ,b]l9 on natural & artificial ice1 inv>iably hung ) flags & gaily light$ by night4 ,we c see n[1 ^? ,g]man girls1--"s ( !m trim & good to look at1 9 co/umes ( sapphire blue1 deep r$1 or gre5 velvet1 fur trimm$1--glid+ swiftly across ! ice1 to ! irresi/ible sw+ ( waltz music & accompani$ by fla%+ uni=ms4 ,9 ! ,g]man-speak+ c\ntries ev]yone skates3 ! :ite-be>d$ gr&fa!r & ! ?ird g5]ation go+ h& 9 h& on ,sunday morn+s to ! ne>e/ ice-pond4 ,) !m skat+ is a communal recreation1 z be] g>d5 conc]ts are4 ,) u 9 ,am]ica mo/ sports are fa%ions1 n traditions4 ,! rage = skat+ dur+ ! pa/ few seasons is ! outcome ( ! exhibition skat+ done by pr(essionals f ,au/ria1 ,g]many1 ,sc&9avian c\ntries & ,canada1 at ! ,new ,york ,hippodrome4 ,^? :o madly danc$ are n[ z madly skat+4 ,& out ( t[n ! "y wom5 delight ! eye 9 bright wool sweat]s1 broad1 long wool sc>fs & bright wool caps1 or small1 close felt hats1--fasc9at+ aga9/ ! :ite backgr\nd ( ice & sn[4 ,! boots are high1 rea*+ to top ( calf1 a popul> model hav+ a seam to ! tip ( ! toe4 ,no sport s p]fectly ?r[s into relief comm& ( ! body z does skat+4 ,wat* a gr\p ( competitors = hon\rs at any ga!r+ ( amateur wom5 skat]s & note h[ few h comm& ( !mselves--"k absolutely :at !y want to d1 & !n are able to d x4 ,"o skat]1 9 ! language ( ! ice1 c d ! actual "w1 b has no =m4 ,x may be %e lacks temp]am5t1 has no ab&on1 no rhy?m2 is /iff1 or1 :ile full ( life1 has bad arms4 ,x is z necess>y t ! fancy skat] %\ld le>n ! correct position ( ! arms z t ! solo danc] %\ld4 ,c]ta9 l9es mu/ be pres]v$1 say1 f f+]s ( "r arm ?r\gh to tip ( left foot1 or f tip ( left h& ?r\gh to tip ( "r foot4 ,,plate ,,xv ,a portrait by ,john ,s4 ,s>g5t4 7,metropolitan ,museum1 pa9t$ ab\t #ahij47 ,we h "h a di/+ui%$ example ( ! dignity & beauty possible to a co/ume *>act]i/ic ( ! p]iod :5 extreme sev]ity z to outl9e & elim9ation ( detail foll[$ ! elaboration ( ,victorian ruffles1 ribbons & lace ov] hoops & bu/le2 curl$ hair & ! obvi\s cameo broo*1 massive bracelets & *a9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art ,late ,n9ete5? ,c5tury ,co/ume ab\t #ahij ,a ,portrait by ,john ,s4 ,s>g5t ,=m is ! manipulation ( ! l9es ( ! body to produce p]fect balance1 p]fect fre$om &1 :5 requir$1 p]fect control 9 arre/$ motion4 ,?is is ! ma/]y :i* produces 9 free skat+ t melt+ ( "o figure into ano!r :i* s hypnotises ! onlook]4 ,x is because ,miss ,weld has ma/]$ ! above qualifications t %e is amateur *ampion 9 fancy skat+4 ,%e has ma/]$ h] m$ium2 has control ( e muscle 9 h] body4 ,9 consequ5ce %e is decorative & delightful to wat*4 ,to be decorative :5 n on skates1 :e!r walk+1 /&+ or sitt+1 a woman mu/ h cultivat$ ! same feel+ = l9e1 h] =m mu/ be good4 ,x is n en\gh to obey ! ,a4 ,b4 ,c4's ( position2 head up1 %\ld]s back1 *e/ out1 /oma* 94 ,"o mu/ /udy ! possibilities ( ! body 9 acquir+ & p]fect+ poses :i* h l9e1 mak+ pictures ) "o's self4 ,9 ! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration we insi/ t e room be a beautiful composition4 ,:at we w\ld n[ impress ^u ! m9d ( ! read] is t %e is a "p ( ! picture & mu/ compose ) h] sett+4 ,to d ?is %e %\ld acquire ! ma/]y ( h] body1 & !n tra9 t body until x has acquir$ good habits 9 ! assum+ ( l9e1 :e!r 9 action or repose4 ,?is c be done to an a/oni%+ degree1 ev5 if "o lacks ! in/9ct4 ,to be born ) a s5se ( l9e is a gift1 & ! developm5t ( ?is s5se c give arti/ic delight to ^? :o witness ! results & ?rill !m q z sculpture or music1 or any o!r art does4 ,! ,greek idea ( reg>d+ ! p]fectly tra9$ body z a beautiful temple is "o to keep 9 m9d1 if woman w\ld fulfil h] obligation to be decorative4 ,=m means effici5cy1 if prop]ly und]/ood & c>ri$ out accord+ to ! _s1 n ! lett] ( ! law4 ,=m implies ! human body "u control1 ready = imm$iate action4 ,! man or woman ) =m1 w be ! fir/ to fall into action :5 requir$1 because1 s to speak1 no "t is lo/ 9 collect+ & aim+ ! body4 ,"o ( ! great po9ts 9 ! tea*+ ( ! late ,!odore ,les*etizky1 ! _w's greate/ ma/] 9 ! art ( piano play+1 0 t ! h& %\ld imm$iately assume ! correct position = ! succe$+ *ord1 ! in/ant x 0 lift$ f ! keys2--prep>$ness6 ,! crack regim5ts ( ,europe1 not$ = _! =m1 h = ye>s be5 ! object ( je/s 9 ^? new worlds :]e brawn & muscle1 ) m5tal acum51 h conv]t$ primeval =e/s into conge/$ comm]cial c5t]s4 ,b t =m1 s d]id$ by ! pione] _s1 has prov$ its wor? dur+ ! pres5t ,european w>4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates & ! ,c5tral ,p[]s are n[ at w> & milit>y gu>ds h be5 /ation$ at vuln]able po9ts4 ,only to-day we saw "o ( ,uncle ,sam's soldi]s1 "o ( ?ree1 patroll+ ! front ( a big armory1--/&+ 9 an absolutely relax$ position1 8 gun held loosely 9 8 h&1 & its bayonet propp$ aga9/ ! iron f5ce4 ,"o c\ld n help ?9k+2 no =m1 no prep>$ness1 no effici5cy4 ,x goes )\t say+ t prompt ob$i5ce _c be look$ = :]e !re is lack ( =m1 no matt] h[ will+ ! _s4 ,! mod]n woman :5 on p>ole1--walk+1 danc+1 driv+1 rid+ or engag$ 9 any sport1 to be effici5t mu/ h tra9$ ! body until x has =m1 & dress x appropriately1 if %e w\ld be effici5t z well z decorative 9 ! mod]n s5se ( ! t]m4 ,no bett] illu/ration ( our po9t c be f\nd ?an 9 ! popul> sport cit$ at ! beg9n+ ( ?is *apt]4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,woman ,,decorative ,,9 ,,h] ,,motor ,,c> ,x is n easy to be decorative 9 y\r automobile n[ t ! manufactur]s are go+ 9 = gay col\r s*emes bo? 9 uphol/]y & outside pa9t+4 ,a putty-col\r$ t\r+ c> l9$ ) r$ lea!r is v /unn+ 9 itself1 b ! woman :o w\ld look well :5 sitt+ 9 x does n c>elessly don any bright motor coat at h&4 ,%e kn[s v well t to %[ up to advantage aga9/ r$1 & be 9 h>mony ) ! putty-col\r pa9t1 h] twe$ coat %\ld bl5d ) ! c>1 also h] furs4 ,black is sm>t ) ev]y?+1 b fancy h[ impossible mu/>d1 c]ise & "s %ades ( gre5 w\ld look aga9/ t sc>let lea!r6 ,an orange c> ) black top1 mud-gu>ds & uphol/]y calls = a co/ume ( :ite1 black1 br[n1 tawny grey1 or1 if "o w\ld be a po/]1 royal blue4 ,"s tw5ty-five ye>s ago ! writ] wat*$ ! fir/ automobile 9 h] exp]i5ce driv5 d[n ! ,*amps ,elysees4 ,x seem$ an uncanny1 horseless c>riage1 built to c>ry f\r p & mak+ a good deal ( fuss ab\t x4 ,a few days lat]1 :ile lun*+ at ! ,cafe de ,res]voir1 ,v]sailles1 we 7 told t "s m5 7 />t+ back to ,p>is by automobile1 & if we w5t to a w9d[ giv+ on to ! c\rt1 we might see ! a/oni%+ vehicle make its />t4 ,x 0 z ?rill+ z ! fir/ ne> view ( an a]oplane1 & all-excitem5t we wat*$ ! two ,fr5*m5 gett+ ready = ! drive4 ,_! elaborate prep>ation to face ! curr5t ( air to be enc\nt]$ en r\te 0 n unlike ! prep>ation to-day = fly+4 ,x 0 ,spr+--,june1 at t--b ^? ,fr5*m5 we>+ v ,engli% twe$s & smok+ ,engli% pipes1 ea* drew on extra clo? tr\s]s & coats & ov] ^! a complete outfit ( lea!r6 ,we saw !m get into ! ?+s 9 ! public c\rty>d1 arrange huge goggles1 draw d[n clo? caps1 & set out at a spe$ ( ab\t fifte5 miles an h\r6 ,,plate ,,xvi ,a portrait ( ,mrs4 ,?omas ,ha/+s ( ,new ,york pa9t$ by ! late ,john ,w4 ,alex&]4 ,we h *os5 ?is--"o ( ! mo/ successful portraits by "o ( ,am]ica's lead+ portrait pa9t]s--z a /rik+ example ( col\r s*eme & int]e/+ l9e4 ,also we h "h a woman :o c>ries h]self ) =m4 ,mrs4 ,ha/+s is an accompli%$ horsewoman4 ,h] f9e physique is pois$ s z to give t individual movem5t :i* makes = type2 h] col\r--wond]ful r$ hair & ! complexion :i* goes ) x--are set (f by a dull gold backgr\nd2 a g[n 9 ano!r tone ( gold1 reliev$ by a note or two ( turquoise gre52 & ! same gre5 appe>+ z a %ad[ on ! ,victory 9 ! backgr\nd4 ,we see ! sitt]1 z %e impress$ an obs]v]1 transf]r$ to ! canvas by ! consummate skill ( our deeply lam5t$ arti/4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,mod]n ,portrait ,by ,john ,w4 ,alex&] ,! above seems incr$ible1 n[ t we h pass$ ?r\gh ! v>i\s /ages ( motor c> improvem5ts & motor clo!s creations4 ,! rapid developm5t ( ! automobile1 ) its w9d%ields1 lim\s9e tops1 %ock absorb]s1 p]fect$ eng9es & spr+s1 has br\ght u to ! po9t :]e no m prep>ation is ne$$ = a ?\s&-mile run across c\ntry ) an av]age spe$ ( ?irty miles an h\r1 ?an if we 7 bo>d+ a tra94 ,"o dresses = a motor z "o w\ld = driv+ 9 a c>riage & ^? dun-color$1 l9eless mon/rosities inv5t$ = motor use h vani%$ f view4 ,m ?an ?is1 woman to-day consid]s h] decorative value aga9/ ! electric blue velvet or lovely *9tz l9+ ( h] lim\s9e1 exactly z %e does :5 plann+ clo!s = h] salon4 ,& :y n8 ,! manufactur]s ( c>s are tak+ s]i\sly _! int]ior decoration z well z outside pa9t+2 & _m wom5 int]ior decorators specialise along ?is l9e & devote _! "t to inv5t+ col\r s*emes calculat$ to reflect ! p]sonality ( ! own] ( ! c>4 ,special ord]s h rais$ ! /&>d ( ! entire indu/ry1 s t at ! rec5t ,new ,york automobile %[1 _m effects 9 c>s 7 (f]$ to ! public4 ,besides ! putty-col\r$ road/] l9$ ) sc>let1 black l9$ ) russet yell[1 orange l9$ ) black2 !re 7 lim\s9es pa9t$ a delicate cu/>d col\r1 ) top & rim ( :eels1 *assis & lamps ( ! same ,natti] ,blue z ! velvet l9+1 cu%ions & curta9s4 ,a beautiful & luxuri\s backgr\nd & h[ easy to be decorative aga9/ x to "o :o kn[s h[6 ,ano!r popul> col\r s*eme 0 a mauve body ) top ( canopy & rims ( :eels :ite1 ! entire l9+ ( mauve1 l ! body4 ,imag9e y\r woman ) a decorative in/9ct 9 ?is c>4 ,s obvi\s an opportunity w\ld nev] escape h]1 & "o c see ! vision on a ,summ] day1 z %e appe>s 9 simple :ite1 s(te/ blue or pale p9k1 or bett] /ill1 treat+ h]self z a qua9t nosegay ( blu% roses1 =-get-me-nots1 lilies & mignonette1 ) h] *iffons & silks or %e]e/ ( lawns4 ,b h[ ab\t me8 "o he>s f ! girl ( ! op5 c>--a rac] p]haps1 :i* %e drives h]self4 ,y are easie/ ( all1 we assure y2 to beg9 )1 y\r c> be+ a rac]1 is pa9t$ & l9$ ) durable d>k col\rs--battle%ip grey1 du/ col\r1 or "s %ade :i* does n %[ dirt & we>4 ,! consequ5ce is1 y w be decorative 9 any ( ! sm>t coats1 close hats & sc>fs 9 brilliant & lovely hues1--silk or wool4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,h[ ,,to ,,g ,,ab\t ,,plann+ ,a ,,p]iod ,,co/ume ,"h is a plan to foll[ :5 gett+ up a p]iod co/ume3 ,we w assume t y wi% to we> a ,spani% dress ( ! "t ( ,philip ,,iv 7e>ly sev5te5? c5tury74 ,! fir/ ?+ to give y\r att5tion to is ! /ation 9 life :i* y propose to repres5t4 ,grant$ t y decide on a c\rt co/ume1 "o ( ^? made s famili> by ! pa9t+s ( ! great ,velasquez1 let y\r fir/ /ep be to get a def9ite impression ( ! outl9e ( su* a co/ume4 ,g to art gall]ies & look at pictures1 g to libr>ies & ask = books on co/umes1 ) plates4 ,y w obs]ve t "u ! head ( cr9ol9e & hoop-skirt p]iods1 !re are a v>iety ( outl9es1 m>k$ly diff]5t4 ,! slope ( ! hip l9e & ! outl9e ( ! skirt is ! infallible hall-m>k ( ea* ( ^! p]iods4 ,let x be rememb]$ t ! outl9e ( a woman includes hair1 combs1 head-dress1 e>r+s1 treatm5t ( neck1 %\ld]s1 arms1 bu/ & hips2 l9e to ! ankles & %oes2 also fan1 h&k]*ief or any o!r article1 :i* if a silh\ette 7 made1 w\ld appe>4 ,! next /ep is to asc]ta9 :at mat]ials 7 available at ! "t y\r co/ume 0 worn & :at 9 vogue4 ,7 velvets1 sat9s or silks worn1 or all ?ree8 ,7 mat]ials fl[]$1 /rip$1 or pla98 ,if /rip$1 horizontal or p]p5dicul>8 ,= ^! po9ts turn aga9 to y\r art gall]y1 co/ume plates1 or ! be/ ( hi/orical novels4 ,if y are unable to resort to ! s\rces sugge/$1 two c\rses lie op5 to y4 ,put ! matt] into ! h&s ( an exp]t2 !re are _m to be approa*$ ?r\gh ! columns ( fir/-class p]iodicals or newspap]s 7we d n ref] to ! ord9>y deal] 9 co/umes or !atre accessories72 or make ! ef=t to consult "s au?ority1 9 p]son or by lett]3 an actor1 hi/orian or libr>ian4 ,x is amaz+ h[ ne> at h& help (t5 is1 if we only make our ne$s kn[n4 ,if ! read] is "y & busy1 danc+ & skat+ & sleep+1 & compla9s1 9 h] w9some way1 t days are too %ort = su* "w1 we w\ld rem9d h] t z already /at$1 to c>efully /udy ! details ( any co/ume1 ( any p]iod1 means t ! m9d & ! eye are be+ tra9$ to discrim9ate betwe5 ! ess5tials & non-ess5tials ( woman's co/ume 9 e-day life4 ,! same "y beauty may be int]e/$ to "k t at ! beg9n+ ( ,g]ald9e ,f>r>'s c>e] ! writ]1 visit+ ) h]1 an exhibition ( pictures 9 ,muni*1 0 amaz$ at ! !n1 v "y girl's famili>ity ) ! mann] ( arti/s--anci5t & mod]n1--& exclaim$ ,i did n "k y 7 s fond ( pictures4 ,x's n t1 ,f>r> said1 ,i get my co/umes f !m1 & a great _m ( my poses4 ,,plate ,,xvii ,portrait ( ,mrs4 ,philip ,m4 ,lydig1 patron ( ! arts1 exhibit$ 9 ,new ,york at ,duve5 ,gall]ies dur+ ,w9t] ( #aiaf-aiag ) ! ,zuloaga pictures4 ,! exhibition 0 arrang$ by ,mrs4 ,lydig4 ,?is portrait has be5 *os5 to illu/rate two po9ts3 t a di/+ui%$ decorative quality is dep5d5t ^u l9e :i* has prim>ily to d ) =m ( "o's own physique 7& n alone ! cut ( ! co/ume72 & ! great value ( kn[+ "o's own type4 ,mrs4 ,lydig has be5 transf]r$ to ! canvas by ! clev] te*nique ( "o ( ! greate/ mod]n pa9t]s1 ,ignacio ,zuloaga1 an arti/ic desc5dant ( ,velasquez4 ,! delightful movem5t is t ( ! subject1 9 ?is case kept alive ?r\gh its subtle translation into t]ms ( art4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,portrait ( ,mrs4 ,philip ,m4 ,lydig4 ,by ,i4 ,zuloaga ,outl9e & mat]ial be+ decid$1 give y\r att5tion to ! "* ( ! backgr\nd aga9/ :i* y are to appe>4 ,if x is a ball-room1 & ! occasion a co/ume-ball1 is x done 9 light or d>k col\rs1 & :at is ! prevail+ tone8 ,see to x t y settle on a col\r :i* w be ei!r a h>moni\s note or an agreeable1 h5ce impressive contra/1 aga9/ ! prevail+ backgr\nd4 ,if y are to we> ! co/ume on a /age or z a liv+ picture aga9/ a backgr\nd arrang$ ) special ref]5ce to y1 & :]e y are ! c5tral figure1 be m subtle & comb9e col\rs1 if y w2 g 9 = int]e/+ detail1 provid$ always t y make ^! details h mean+4 ,= example1 if x be trimm+1 pure & simple1 be sure t x be appli$ z dur+ y\r *os5 p]iod4 ,trimm+ c be us$ s z to increase effectiv5ess ( a co/ume by acc5tuat+ its di/9ctive features1 & x c be misus$ s z to p]v]t y\r p]iod1 :e!r t be ! age ( ,cleopatra1 or ! ,w9t] ( #aiag4 ,details1 su* z lace1 jewels1 head-dresses1 fans1 snuff-boxes1 "w baskets & fl[]s mu/ be absolutely ( ! p]iod1 or n at all4 ,a few details1 ev5 "o /unn+ jewel1 if correct1 w be f> m conv9c+ ?an any numb] ( make%ifts1 no matt] h[ attractive 9 !mselves4 ,pa9t+s1 plates & hi/ory come to our rescue "h4 ,if y ?9k x dry "w1 try x4 ,! *ances are all 9 fav\r ( y\r em]g+ f y\r se>* spell-b\nd by ! vi/as op5$ up to y2 ! sudd5 mean+ acquir$ by _m inanimate ?+s1 & a new pleasure add$ to all obs]vations4 ,t ,spani% comb ( great-great-gr&mo!r's is really a treasure n[4 ,! antique ,spani% plaque y own1 f\nd to be ,moori% lu/re1 & out ( ! attic x comes6 ,a ,spani% miracle cross proves ! spiritual sup]/ition ( ! race1 s back to ! junk-%op y g1 hop+ to acquire ! "o t 0 pr(f]$4 ,yes1 ,c>m5 %\ld we> a long skirt :5 %e dances1 ,spani% pictures %[ !m2 & s on4 ,! collect+ ( mat]ials & all accessories to a co/ume1 puts "o 9 t\*1 n only ) ! dress1 b ! life ( ! p]iod1 & ! cu/oms ( ! times4 ,once /eep$ 9 ! tradition ( ,spani% art & arti/s1 h[ quick ! connoisseur is to recognize ,spani% influ5ce on ! art ( ,holl&1 ,france & ,engl&4 ,lead y\r exp]t 9 co/umes ( nations into talk+ ( hi/ory & we promise y pictures ( dyna/ies & l&s t few hi/orical writ]s c mat*4 ,?is man or woman has extract$ f ! ?+s p wore ! /ory ( :]e !y wore !m1 & :51 & h[2 = ! lov] ( col\r we comm5d ?is me?od ( /udy+ hi/ory4 ,if any "o ( our read]s is ca/+ ab\t = a hobby & craves "o ) inexhau/ible possibilities1 we w\ld advise3 try collect+ data on p]iods 9 dress1 z %[n 9 ! art treasures ( ! _w1 = ( ?is !re is v]ily no end4 ,we w>n ! novice 9 advance t ea* detail ( woman's dress has = "o 9 pursuit ( su* data ! allure ( ! sir54 ,!re is ! pictur$ /ory ( head-dresses & hats1 & h[ ! hair is worn1 f ,cleopatra's "t till ours2 ! evolution ( a woman's sleeve1 its ups & d[ns & ins & outs z %[n 9 art2 ! sep>ation ( ! wai/ f skirt1 & ev] *ang+ l9e ( bo?2 ! neck ( woman's g[n s v>i\sly cut & trimm$ & h[ ! necklace *ang$ likewise to accord2 ! pass+ ( ! s&als ( ! ,greeks into ! poetic glove-fitt+ slipp]s ( to-day4 ,"o sets out gaily to /udy co/umes1 full ( ! c\rage ( ignorance1 ! joy\s optimism ( an en?usia/1 because x is amus+ & looks s simple ) all ! mat]ial1--old & new1 ly+ ab\t "o4 ,ah1 t is ! pitfall--! v abundance ( ^? plates 9 wondr\s books1 old col\r$ pr9ts & portraits ( ! pa/4 ,to "s /ud5ts ?is kaleidoscopic vision ( p]iod co/umes nev] falls into def9ite l9es & col\r2 or if ! types are cle>1 :at !y come f or m]ge into rema9s obscure4 ,= ! eag] beg9n] we h tri$ to evolve out ( ! :ole mass ( data a sy/em ( orig9 & developm5t z def9ite z ! anatomy ( ! human body1 a framework on :i* to build4 ,if our hi/orical outl9e be cle> en\gh to impress ! m5tal vision z indelibly z ^? prim>y maps ( ! e>? did1 !n we feel p]suad$1 ! textless books ( wond]ful & beguil+ co/ume plates w s]ve _! end z nev] be=e4 ,we humbly (f] :at we hope may prove a key to ! ri* /oreh\se4 ,simplicity1 & pure l9e1 7 lo/ sight ( :5 ov]abundance dull$ ! s5ses ( ! _w4 ,we c\ld prove ?is1 = art %[s t ! co/um+ ( woman develop$ sl[ly1 pres]v+1 z did furniture1 ! same classic l9es & g5]al *>act]i/ics until ! fifte5? c5tury1 ! end ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,) ! op5+ up ( trade *annels & ! possibilities ( easy & quick communication betwe5 c\ntries we f9d1 z we did 9 ! case ( furniture1 p]iods ( fa%ion develop+ )\t nationality4 ,nations decl>$ !mselves 9 ! arti/ry ( workman%ip1 z to-day1 & 9 ! modification & exagg]ation ( an ess5tial detail1 result+ f national or individual temp]am5t4 ,if y ask1 ,:]e d fa%ions come f1--:y 'p]iods'8 we w\ld answ] t 9 ! la/ analysis "o w\ld probably f9d 9 ! conception ( e fa%ion "s arti/'s bra94 ,if ! p]iod is a good "o1 !n x proves t fate all[$ ! arti/ to be true to 8 muse4 ,if ! fa%ion is a bad "o ! arti/ may h _h to adapt 8 l9es & col\r or detail to hide a royal de=mity1 or to cat] to ! :im ( "s wilful beauty ignorant ( our art1 b ri* & 9 ! public eye4 ,a fa%ion if />t$ is a demon or a god let loose4 ,z we h said1 !re is an int]e/+ po9t to be obs]v$ 9 look+ at woman z decoration2 :e!r ! m$ium be fresco1 bas relief1 sculpture1 mosaic1 /a9$ glass or pa9t+1 ! decorative l9e1 %[n 9 co/umes1 pres5ts ! same recurr5t types t we f\nd :5 /udy+ ! hi/ory ( furniture4 ,= our pres5t purposes x is exp$i5t to conf9e ourselves to ! obs]vation ( t expression ( civilisation :i* _h root1 s f> z we "k1 9 ,assyria & ,egypt1 & spread l a bran*+ v9e ?r\gh ,byzantium1 ,greece1 ,rome1 ,go?ic ,europe & ,europe ( ! ,r5aissance1 on ?r\gh ! sev5te5?1 eighte5? & n9ete5? c5turies1 d[n to ! pres5t "t4 ,co/umes = woman & man are suppos$ to h _h _! orig9 9 a cord ti$ ab\t ! wai/1 f :i* 0 susp5d$ crude implem5ts 7us$ = ! slay+ ( bea/s = food1 & 9 self-def5ce72 trophies ( w>1 su* z tee?1 scalps1 etc4 ,! trophies susp5d$1 p>tly conceal$ ! body & 7 = decoration1 z 0 tattoo+ ( ! sk94 ,clo!s 7 n ! result ( mode/y2 mode/y foll[$ ! p>tial cov]+ ( ! human body4 ,mode/y1 or %ame1 0 ! emotion :i* develop$ :5 man1 accu/om$ to decoration--trophies or tattoo+--0 depriv$ ( all or "p ( su* cov]+4 ,:at p>ts ( ! body require concealm5t1 is purely a matt] ( ! cu/oms prevail+ ) a race or tribe1 at a c]ta9 "t1 & "u c]ta9 conditions4 ,?is is a !me1 ! detail$ developm5t ( :i* lies outside ! purpose ( our book4 ,x has delightful possibilities1 h[ev]1 if ! pl5tiful data on ! subject1 giv5 9 sci5tific books1 7 to be cond5s$ & simplifi$4 ,,plate ,,xviii ,mrs4 ,langtry 7,lady de ,ba!7 :o has be5 "o ( ! greate/ beauties ( mod]n times & a m>k$ example ( a woman :o has always und]/ood h] own type1 to co/ume x4 ,%e agrees t ?is photograph ( h]1 9 an ev5+ wrap1 illu/rates a po9t %e has always laid emphasis on3 t a g>m5t :i* has good l9es--9 :i* "o is a picture--cont9ues we>able ev5 :5 n ! d]ni] cri ( fa%ion4 ,?is wrap 0 worn by ,mrs4 ,langtry ab\t two ye>s ago4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,langtry 7,lady de ,ba!7 9 ,ev5+ ,wrap ,,*apt] ,,xv ,i4 ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,p]iod ,,co/umes ,a ,resume ,our pres5t modes ( dress 7aside f ! v>iations impos$ by fa%ion7 are ! resultant ( all ! fa%ions ( ! la/ #bjjj ye>s4 ,w4 ,g4 ,,sumn] 9 ,folkways4 ,! e>lie/ ,egyptian frescoes1 invaluable pre-hi/oric data1 %[ u woman z %e 0 co/um$1 h\s$ & occupi$ :5 ! pa9t+ 0 done4 ,on ^? age-old walls %e appe>s z man's companion1 8 tea*]1 play?+1 slave1 & rul]2--9 :atev] role ! fates decre$4 ,! same fresco$ walls h pictur$ records ( h[ ,egypt till$ ! soil1 built h\ses1 work$ 9 metals1 pott]y & sculpture4 ,woman is se5 beside h] man1 :o slays ! bea/s1 at times f boats propell$ ?r\gh re$$ jungles2 & h]s is always t rigid outl9e1 ^? long1 quiet eyes depict$ 9 pr(ile1 ) massive head-dress1 & /range up/&+ ornam5ts1 abnormally curl$ wig1 & close1 /raight g>m5ts to ! feet 7or none at all71 heavy coll>1 wri/b&s & anklets ( preci\s metals ) gems inset1 or *as$ 9 /range designs4 ,ab\t h]1 ! calm my/]i\s poise & *ildlike acquiesc5ce ( ^? :o "k !mselves to be ! puppets ( ! gods4 ,9 ?is naivete lies "o ( ! great *>ms ( ,egyptian art4 ,z sculptur$ c>yatide1 we see woman ( ,egypt clad 9 transp>5t %ea?-l skirt1 nude above ! wai/1 ) ! usual ext+ui%+ head-dress & heavy coll>1 bracelets & anklets4 ,we see h] z woman1 mute1 law-abid+1 support+ ! edifice2 woman ) /eady gaze & sil5t lips2 "o wond]s :at 0 9 ! m9d ( t lotus eat] ( ! ,nile :o c>v$ 8 dream 9 /one4 ,^? w\ld reproduce ,egyptian col\r s*emes = co/umes1 h\se or /age sett+s1 w\ld d well to consult ! book ( ,egyptian designs1 br\ght out 9 #ahgh by ! ,ecole des ,beaux ,arts1 ,p>is1 & available 9 ! l>ge libr>ies4 ,on ! walls ( ! ,necropolis ( ,memphis1 ,?i & 8 wife 7,fif? ,dyna/y7 appe> 9 a delightful hunt+ sc5e4 ,! man 9 ! pr[ ( 8 boat is ab\t to spe> an enorm\s bea/1 :ile 8 wife1 seat$ 9 ! bottom1 wraps h] arm ab\t 8 leg6 ,among ! e>lie/ portraits ( an ,egyptian woman completely clo!d1 is t ( ,que5 ,taia1 wife ( ,am5ophis1 ,eighte5? ,dyna/y1 :o we>s a /rip$ g[n ) sleeves ( ! kimono type & a ribbon ti$ ar\nd h] wai/1 ! usual ornam5tal coll> & bracelets ( gold1 & an elaborate head-dress ) deep blue curta91 ext5d+ to ! wai/1 beh9d4 ,full ( illum9at+ sugge/ions is an example ( ,woman 9 ,egyptian decoration1 to be se5 z a fresco 9 ! ,necropolis ( ,!bes4 ,x %[s ! gov]ness ( a "y pr9ce 7,eighte5? ,dyna/y7 hold+ ! *ild on h] lap4 ,! feet ( ! little pr9ce re/ on a /ool1 support$ by n9e cr\*+ human be+s--m52 ea* has a coll> ab\t 8 neck1 to :i* a lea% is atta*$1 & all n9e lea%es are held 9 ! h&s ( ! *ild6 ,! illu/rations ( ! ,egyptian fun]al papyrus1 ,! ,book ( ! ,dead1 %[ woman 9 ! role ( wife & companion4 ,x is ! /ory ( a high-born ,egyptian woman1 ,tutu1 wife ( ,ani1 ,royal ,scribe & ,scribe ( ! ,sacr$ ,rev5ue ( all ! gods ( ,!bes4 ,tutu1 ! long-ey$ ,egyptian woman1 "y & /raight1 ) rav5 hair & active =m1 a ,kemaeit ( ,amon1 :i* means %e belong$ to ! religi\s *apt] or congregation ( ! great god ( ,!bes4 ,%e 0 :at might be describ$ z lady-9-wait+ or honor>y prie/ess1 to ! god ,amon4 ,%e1 too1 we>s ! typical ,egyptian head-dress & /raight1 long :ite g[n1 hang+ 9 close folds to h] feet4 ,"o vignette %[s ,tutu ) arm ab\t h] husb&'s leg4 ,?is seems to h be5 a naive ,egyptian way ( express+ t et]nal womanl9ess1 t t5d] c>e = ^? belov$1 t quality insep>able f woman if wor?y ! "n1 & by reason ( :i* ) man1 h] mate1 %e has run ! gamut ( human exp]i5ce1 meet+ ! dem&s ( h] "t4 ,!re is no dodg+ ! issue1 woman's /ory record$ 9 art1 %[s t %e has always respond$ to ,fate's call2 foll[$1 l$1 rul$1 be5 rul$1 amus$1 in/ruct$1 s5t h] m5 into battle z ,sp>tan mo!rs did to return ) hon\r or on _! %ields1 & :5 ,fate s decre$1 l$ !m to battle1 l ,joan ( ,arc4 ,,ii4 ,,egypt ,,& ,,assyria ,9 ,egypt & ,assyria ! l9es ( ! torso 7 kept /raight1 ) no contract+ ( body at wai/ l9e4 ,woman 0 clad 9 a /raight %eet-l g>m5t1 ext5d+ f wai/ to feet ) only metal ornam5ts above2 necklace1 bracelets & armlets2 or a /raight dress f neck to meet ! heavy anklets4 ,s&als 7 worn on ! feet4 ,! head 0 encas$ 9 an abnormally curl$ wig1 ) p5d5t r+lets1 & ! :ole clasp$ by a massive head-dress1 foll[+ ! cont\r ( head & hav+ z "p ( x1 a curta9 or veil1 rea*+ d[n beh9d1 across %\ld]s & approa*+ wai/ l9e4 ,! ,sph9x we>s a *>act]i/ic ,egyptian head-dress4 ,,plate ,,xix ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/1 arti/ & patron ( ! arts1 not$ = h] und]/&+ ( h] own type & ! successful co/um+ ( x4 ,mrs4 ,na/ 0 ,miss ,cl>isse ,c\d]t4 ,h] ,fr5* blood acc\nts1 9 "p1 = h] innate feel+ = l9e & col\r4 ,x is l>gely due to ! ke5 int]e/ & active s]vices ( ,mrs4 ,na/ t ,vogue & ,vanity ,fair h become ! popul> mirrors & prophetic cry/al balls ( fa%ion = ! ,am]ican woman4 ,mrs4 ,na/ is "h %[n 9 /reet co/ume4 ,! photograph is by ,b>on de ,mey]1 :o has made a di/+ui%$ art ( photography4 ,we are "h %[n ! value ( a c>efully consid]$ outl9e :i* is %>ply regi/]$ on ! backgr\nd by pos+ figure aga9/ ! light1 a me?od = suppress+ all details n effect+ ! outl9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,photograph by ,b>on de ,mey] ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 ,/reet ,dress ,,iii4 ,,egypt1 ,,byzantium1 ,,greece ,,& ,,rome ,dur+ ! p]iods ant$at+ ,*ri/1 :5 ! ,roman empire 0 all-p[]ful1 ! wom5 ( ,egypt1 ,byzantium1 ,greece & ,rome1 wore gild$ wigs 7see ,plate ,i1 ,frontispiece71 arrang$ 9 ,psy*e knots1 & b&$2 s&als on _! feet1 & a "o-piece g>m5t1 conf9$ at ! wai/ by a girdle1 :i* fell 9 close folds to ! feet1 a /yle to develop lat] into ! classic ,greek4 ,! ,greek g>m5t consi/$ ( a great squ>e ( :ite l951 drap$ 9 ! deft mann] ( ! ,ea/1 to adapt x to ! human =m1 at once conceal+ & disclos+ ! body to a degree ( p]fection nev] s9ce atta9$4 ,!re 7 undrap$ ,greek g>m5ts left to hang 9 close1 cl++ folds1 ev5 9 ! classic p]iod4 ,x is ?is undrap$ & f9ely-pleat$ robe 7see ,plate ,,xxi7 hang+ close to ! figure1 & ! two-piece g>m5t 7see ,plate ,,iv7 ) its %ort tunic ( ! same mat]ial1 ext5d+ j bel[ ! wai/ l9e 9 front1 & droop+ 9 a cascade ( ripples at ! sides1 z l[ z ! knees1 t ,=tuny 7,p>is7 has reproduc$ 9 8 tea g[ns4 ,an ,engli%woman told u rec5tly t h] great-great-gr&mo!r us$ to describe h[ %e & o!rs ( h] "t 7,empire ,p]iod7 wet _! clo!s to make !m cl+ to _! =ms1 a la ,grecque6 ,! classic ,greek co/ume 0 (t5 a sleeveless g>m5t1 fall+ 9 folds1 & :5 conf9$ at wai/ l9e ) cord ! upp] "p bl\s$ ov] x2 ! mat]ial 0 drap$ s z to leave ! arms free1 ! folds be+ held 9 place by ornam5tal clasps ^u ! %\ld]s4 ,! fitt+ 0 practically unaid$ by cutt+2 squ>es or /raight l5g?s ( l95 be+ adju/$ to ! human =m by clev] manipulation4 ,! adju/+ ( ^! folds1 z we h said1 develop$ into an art4 ,! use ( l>ge squ>es or %awls ( brilliantly dy$ l951 wool & lat] silk1 is conspicu\s 9 all ! examples %[+ woman z decoration4 ,! long ,go?ic cape succe$s x1 t envelop+ circul> g>m5t1 ) & )\t ! hood1 & clasp$ at ! ?roat1 9 :i* ! ,"m ( ,god is inv>iably depict$4 ,h] cape is ! cele/ial royal blue4 ,! /a9$ silk gauzes1 popul> ) ,greek danc]s1 7 made into g>m5ts foll[+ ! same classic l9es1 & s 7 ! gymnasium co/umes ( ! "y girls ( ,greece4 ,isadora ,duncan reproduces ! latt] 9 _m ( h] dances4 ,9 ! *apt] entitl$ ,! ,/ory ( ,textiles 9 ,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration1 we h giv5 a resume ( ?is bran* ( our subject4 ,! type ( co/ume worn by woman ?r\gh\t ! entire ,roman ,empire dur+ its mo/ glori\s p]iod1 0 classic ,greek1 n only 9 g5]al outl9e1 b 9 detail4 ,note t ! coll>less neck 0 cut r\nd & a trifle l[2 ! l9es ( g[n 7 long & foll[$ ea* o!r2 ! trimm+ foll[$ ! hem ( neck & sleeves & skirt2 ! hair1 :ile artificially curl$ & sometimes int]tw9$ ) pe>ls & o!r gems1 aft] be+ gild$1 0 s arrang$ z to %[ ! cont\r ( ! head1 !n ga!r$ into a ,psy*e knot4 ,gold b&s1 pla9 or jewell$1 clasp$ & held ! hair 9 place4 ,9 ! ,gold ,room ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum2 9 not$ collections 9 ,europe2 9 portraits & co/ume plates1 "o sees t ! e>r+s worn at t p]iod 7 great heavy discs1 or half discs1 ( gold2 l>ge gold fl[]s1 9 ! ,etruscan /yle2 l>ge r+s ) gr\ps ( p5dants1--usually ?ree on ea* r+1 & ! drop e>r+s s mu* 9 vogue to-day4 ,necklaces 7 broad1 l coll>s1 r\nd & made ( h&-wr\ght l9ks & beads1 ) p5dants4 ,^! fill$ 9 ! neck ( ! dress & 7 evid5tly reg>d$ z a necess>y "p ( ! co/ume4 ,! simple cord :i* conf9$ ! ,greek woman's drap]ies at ! wai/1 9 ,egypt & ,byzantium1 became a sa%2 a broad /rip ( mat]ial :i* 0 pass$ across ! front ( body at ! wai/1 cross$ beh9d & !n br\ght tight ov] ! hips to tie 9 front1 l[ d[n1 ! ends hang+ squ>e to knees or bel[4 ,9 ,egypt a %\ld] cape1 ) k]*ief effect 9 front1 broad5$ beh9d to a squ>e1 & rea*$ to ! wai/ l9e4 ,we w\ld call att5tion to ! fact t :5 ! classic type ( furniture & co/ume 7 reviv$ by ,napoleon ,i & ! ,empress ,joseph9e1 x 0 ! ,egyptian v]sion1 z well z ! ,greek4 ,"o sees ,egyptian & ,etruscan /yles 9 ! /raight1 n>r[ g>m5t ( ! ,fir/ ,empire rea*+ to ankles1 ) p>allel r[s ( trimm+ at ! bottom ( skirt4 ,! ,empire /yle ( p>t$ hair1 ) cascade ( curls ea* side1 riot\s curl+ locks outl9+ face1 ) "o or two r+lets br\ght 9 front ( e>s1 & ! ,psy*e knot 7:i* lat] 9 ,victorian days l5t itself to c>icature1 9 a fea!r-du/] effect at cr[n ( head71 7 inspir$ by ^? curl$ & gild$ creations su* z ,?ais wore4 ,hats1 z we use ! t]m to-day1 7 worn by ! anci5ts4 ,"s w rememb] ! ,greek hat ,sibyl ,s&]son wore ) h] classic robes :5 %e sang ,mass5et's ,ph$re1 9 ,p>is4 ,x 0 ,*9ese 9 type4 ,"o sees ?is type ( hat on ,tanagra ,/atuettes 9 our museums4 ,apropos ( hats1 design]s to-day are con/antly resurrect+ models f\nd 9 museums1 & "s ( u recognise ! l9es & details ( anci5t head-dresses 9 hats turn$ out by our mo/ up-to-date mill9]s4 ,p>asols & umbrellas 7 also us$ by ,assyrians & ,greeks4 ,s&als :i* only cov]$ ! soles ( ! feet 7 ! usual footwe>1 b ,greeks & ,etruscans are %[n 9 art z we>+ also moccas9-l boots & %oes lac$ up ! front4 ,( c\rse1 ! /rapp$ slipp]s ( ! ,empire 7 a v]sion ( classic s&als4 ,z we h said1 ! ,greek g[n & toga are f\nd :]ev] ! ,roman ,empire rea*$4 ,! wom5 ( :at are n[ ,france & ,engl& clo!d !mselves at t "t 9 ! same mann] z ! cultur$ class ( ,rome4 ,naturally ! ,g]manic bran* :i* broke f ! p>5t /em1 & drift$ nor?w>d to /rike root 9 unbrok5 =e/s1 bord]+ on untri$ seas1 wore sk9s & crudely wov5 g>m5ts1 few & /rongly made1 b (t5 picturesque4 ,?\gh b slightly rem9isc5t ( ! traditional co/ume1 we "k t ! wom5 ( ! ?ird & f\r? c5turies wore a %ort1 "o-piece g>m5t1 ) l>ge e>r+s1 heavy metal armlets above ! elb[ & at wri/s4 ,! *a9 ab\t ! wai/1 f :i* hung a knife1 = protection & dome/ic purposes1 is desc5d5t f ! savage's cord & ance/or to t lovely bauble1 ! *atela9e ( lat] days1 ) its atta*$ fan1 snuff-box & jewell$ wat*4 ,,plate ,,xx ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 an ev5+ g[n4 ,"h aga9 is a co/ume ! beauty ( :i* evades ! dictum ( fa%ion 9 ! n>r[ s5se ( ! t]m4 ,?is picture has ! di/9ction ( a well-pos$ & f9ely execut$ old ma/] & because possess+ beauty ( a traditional sort w cont9ue to give pleasure long aft] ! co/ume has p]i%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 ,ev5+ ,dress ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,developm5t ,,( ,,go?ic ,,co/ume ,to ! ,romans1 all :o 7 n ( ,rome & h] ,empire1 7 =eign]s1--outsid]s1 p ) a /range viewpo9t1 s !y 7 giv5 a "n to indicate ?is2 !y 7 call$ b>b>ians4 ,conspicu\s among ^? tribes ( b>b>ians1 mov$ by human lu/ = ga9 to desc5d ^u ! ,roman ,empire & ev5tually br+ ab\t its fall1 0 ! tribe ( ,go?s1 & 9 ! c\rse ( c5turies ,go?ic has become a g5]ic t]m1 imply+ t :i* is n ,roman4 ,we speak ( ,go?ic ar*itecture1 ,go?ic art1 ,go?ic co/umes1 :5 we mean1 /rictly speak+1 ! *>act]i/ic ar*itecture1 art & co/um+ ( ! late ,middle ,ages 7twelf? to fifte5? c5turies74 ,b we f9d ! s-call$ ,go?ic outl9e 9 co/ume z e>ly z ! f\r? c5tury4 ,ov] ! undrap$1 "o-piece robe ( classic type1 a second g>m5t is n[ worn1 cut ) /raight l9es4 ,x usually fa/5s beh9d1 & ! uncorset$ figure is outl9$4 ,! neck is /ill coll>less & cut r\nd1 ! space fill$ 9 ) a necklace4 ,! sleeves ( ! tunic appe> to be ! logical evolution ( ! folds ( ! toga1 :i* fall ov] ! arms :5 b5t4 ,!y cl+ to ! outl9e ( ! %\ld]1 broad5+ at ! h& into :at is call$ angel sleeves2 9 art1 ! traditional angel we>s !m4 ,roman-,*ri/ian wom5 wore _! hair p>t$1 no ,psy*e knot1 & int]e/+1 l>ge e>r+s4 ,! g[ns 7 n drap$1 b 7 9 "o piece & ) no fulness4 ,a tunic1 foll[+ l9es ( ! =m1 rea*$ bel[ ! knees & 0 belt$4 ,?is g>m5t 0 trimm$ ) b&s f %\ld]s to hem ( tunic & kept ! same wid? ?r\gh\t1 if n>r[2 b if wide1 ! b&s broad5$ to ! hem4 ,! neck cont9u$ to be cut r\nd1 & fill$ 9 ) a necklace4 ,! cape1 fa/5+ on %\ld]s or *e/1 remnant ( ! ,greek toga1 0 worn1 & veils ( v>i\s mat]ials 7 ! usual head cov]+s4 ,betwe5 ! fif? & t5? c5turies !re are examples ( ! ov]g>m5t or tunic hav+ a broad /oma*] ( "s contra/+ mat]ial1 held 9 place ) a cord1 :i* is ti$ beh9d1 br\ght ar\nd to ! front1 knott$ & all[$ to hang to bottom ( skirt4 ,byzant9e art betwe5 #hjj & #ajjj ,a4 ,d4 /ill %[s wom5 we>+ tunics1 b hang+ /raight f neck to hem ( skirt1 fa/5$ on %\ld]s & op5$ at sides to %[ g[n b5ea?2 close sleeves ) trimm+ at ! wri/s1 (t5 l>ge1 r\ghly cut jewels =m+ a bord] on tunic1 & ! hair worn 9 long braids on ea* side ( ! face2 ! coil ( hair1 :i* 0 wrapp$ ) pe>ls or o!r beads1 0 p>t$ & us$ to frame ! face4 ,?is fa%ion 0 c>ri$ to excess by ! ,franks4 ,we see "s ( _! wom5 betwe5 #djj & #fjj ,a4 ,d4 we>+ ^! heavy1 rope-l braids to ! hem ( ! skirt 9 front4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury ! ,go?ic co/ume 0 p]haps at its mo/ beautiful /age4 ,! long robe1 ! upp] "p foll[+ ! l9es ( ! figure1 ) long close sleeves half cov]+ h&s1 or fl[+ sleeves1 t t\*$ ! floor4 ,ab\t ! wai/ 0 worn a silk cord or jewell$ girdle1 f9ely wr\ght & swung l[ on hips2 f ! end ( :i* 0 susp5d$ ! money bag1 fan & keys4 ,! girdle beg9s n[ to play an important "p z decoration4 ,?is !me1 ! evolution ( ! girdle1 may be indef9itely enl>g$ ^u b we mu/ n dwell ^u x "h4 ,9 "s cases we see t ! tunic op5$ 9 ! front & t ! l>ge1 squ>e1 %awl-l out] g>m5t ( ,greece n[ became ! long circul> cape1 clasp$ on ! *e/ 7"o or two clasps71 made s famili> by ! art ( ! ,go?ic & ,r5aissance p]iods4 ,turn to ! illum9at$ manuscripts ( ^? p]iods1 to pa9t+s1 on wood1 frescoes1 /a9$ glass1 /ucco1 c>v$ wood1 & /one1 & y w f9d ! ,"m ( ,god inv>iably co/um$ 9 ! simple "o-piece robe & circul> clasp$ cape4 ,9 mo/ ( ! sacr$ art ( ! t5?1 elev5?1 twelf?1 ?irte5?1 f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 ! ,virg9 & o!r sa9ts are depict$ 9 ! curr5t co/ume ( woman4 ,! ,virg9 0 ! mo/ frequ5t subject ( arti/s 9 e m$ium1 dur+ ! ages :5 ! ,*ur* dom9at$ ! ,/ate 9 ,europe4 ,! refurni%+ ( ! ,virg9's w>drobe has long be5 & /ill is1 a pi\s task & "o clam\r$ = by adh]5ts to ! *ur*es 9 :i* ! ,virg9's image is display$ to wor%ipp]s4 ,we regret to say1 = ae/hetic reasons1 t !re is no ef=t made on ! "p ( mod]n devotees to p]petuate ! beautiful m$iaeval type ( co/ume4 ,9 "s old pa9t+s :i* come "u ! head ( ,folk ,art1 ! ,holy ,family appe>s 9 national co/ume4 ,! writ] recalls a bit ( eighte5? c5tury pa9t+1 %[+ ,/4 ,anne hold+ ! ,virg9 z *ild4 ,/4 ,anne we>s ! biz>re fete attire ( a ,spani% peasant2 a gigantic head-dress & veil1 l>ge e>r+s1 wide /iff skirts1 %[+ gay fl[]s on a backgr\nd ( gold4 ,! skirt is r %ort1 to display wide tr\s]s bel[ x4 ,h] sleeves h filmy frills ( deep :ite lace execut$ ) skill4 ,,plate ,,xxi ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 a g>d5 co/ume4 ,%e we>s a sun-hat & c>ries a fl[]-basket1 :i* are decorative z well z useful4 ,we h *os5 ?is photograph z an example ( a co/ume made exquisitely arti/ic by be+ kept simple 9 l9e & free f an excess ( trimm+4 ,?is co/ume is s decorative t x gives di/9ction & int]e/ to ! lea/ pret5ti\s ( g>d5s4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 ,g>d5 ,co/ume ,to return to ! girdle1 z we h said1 x slipp$ f its position at ! wai/ l9e1 :]e x conf9$ ! classic folds1 & 0 all[$ to hang loosely ab\t ! hips1 clasp$ l[ 9 front4 ,f ?is clasp a *a9 ext5d$1 to :i* 7 atta*$ ! h\sewife's keys or purse & ! dame ( fa%ion's fan4 ,9 fact "o c tell1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 ! woman's class & p]iod by c>efully inspect+ h] *atela9e4 ,! abs5ce ( wai/ l9e1 & ! long1 /raight effect produc$ 9 ! body ( g[n by we>+ ! girdle swung ab\t ! hips1 gives x ! s-call$ ,moy5 ,age silh\ette1 reviv$ by ! fa%ion ( to-day4 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury ! r\nd coll>less neck1 l[ en\gh to admit a necklace ( l9ks or beads1 p]si/s4 ,a new note is ! out] sleeve lac$ across an inn] sleeve ( :ite4 ,let u rememb] t ! co/ume ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies 0 di/+ui%$ by a quality ( beautiful1 sweep+ l9e1 mass$ col\r1 detail ) raison d'etre1 :i* produc$ dignity ) graceful movem5t1 f\nd n[h]e to-day1 unless x be on ! ,wagn]ian /age or 9 ! b\doir ( a woman :o /ill takes "t1 9 our age ( hurry1 to we> h] negligee beautifully4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury ! r\nd neck cont9u$1 b "o sees l[ necks too1 :i* left ! %\ld]s expos$ 7our #ahcj /yle74 ,ano!r new note is ! tunic gr[n into a g>m5t rea*+ to ! feet1 a "o-piece pr9cess g[n1 ) belt or girdle4 ,sometimes a ,juliet cap 0 worn to m]ely cov] ! cr[n ( head1 ) hair p>t$ & fl[+1 :ile on matrons we see head cov]+s ) sides turn$ up1 l ecclesia/ical caps1 & float+ veils fall+ to ! wai/4 ,notice t ?r\gh all ! p]iods t we h nam$1 :i* means until ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ! l9e ( %\ld] rema9s normal & beautiful1 slop+ & melt+ into folds ( robe or l9e ( sleeve4 ,we see n[ = ! fir/ "t an incl9ation to tamp] ) ! %\ld] l9e4 ,an in(f5sive scallop appe>s1--or "s o!r decoration1 z cap to sleeve4 ,no h>m done yet6 ,! fifte5? c5tury %[s ano!r /yle1 a long sleeveless ov]g>m5t1 rea*+ to ! floor1 fa/5$ on %\ld]s & sw++ loose1 to %[ at sides ! und]g[n4 ,x sugge/s a prie/'s robe4 ,"h we discov] "o m ( ! ,moy5 ,age /yles reviv$ to-day4 ,! f\rte5? c5tury g[ns1 ) necks cut out r\nd1 to admit a necklace ) p5dants1 are /ill popul>4 ,! g[ns are long on ! gr\nd1 & ! mo/ beautiful ( ! *>act]i/ic head-dresses--! long1 po9t$ "o1 ) veil cov]+ x1 & float+ d[n f po9t ( cap to hem ( fl[+ skirt beh9d1 cont9ues ! movem5t ( co/ume--! long l9es :i* foll[ "o ano!r4 ,:5 correctly pos$1 ?is po9t$ head-dress is a delight to ! eye4 ,we rec5tly saw a photograph ( "s fair "y wom5 9 ?is type ( ,m$iaeval or ,go?ic co/ume worn by !m at a co/ume ball4 ,fail+ to realise t ! pose ( any head-dress 7?is means hats z well7 is all-important1 !y _h plac$ ! qua9t1 long1 po9t$ caps on ! v tops ( _! heads1 l fools' caps6 ,! angle at :i* ?is head-dress is worn is half ! battle4 ,! importance ( e woman's cultivat+ an eye = l9e _c be ov]/at$4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury we fir/ see puffs at ! elb[1 o!rwise ! outl9es ( g[n are ! same4 ,! g>m5t 9 "o piece1 ! body ( x outl9+ ! =m1 its skirts sweep+ ! gr\nd2 a girdle ab\t ! hips1 & long1 close or fl[+ sleeves1 wide at ! hem4 ,despite ! f\rte5? c5tury innovation ( necks cut l[ & (f ! %\ld]s 7b]at$ by ! ,*ur*71 mo/ necks 9 ! fifte5? c5tury are /ill cut r\nd at ! ?roat1 & ! necklace worn in/ead ( coll>4 ,"s ( ! g[ns cut l[ (f ! %\ld]s are fill$ 9 ) a puff$ tuck] ( musl94 ,! po9t$ cap ) a float+ veil is /ill se54 ,notice t ! re/ra9t 9 l9e1 col\r & detail1 gradually disappe>s1 ) ! abnormal circulation ( weal?1 9 ^? dep>tm5ts ( ,*ur* & ,/ate to :i* ! curr5t ( mat]ial ?+s 0 div]t$4 ,we n[ see humanity trick$ out 9 ri* attire & /agg]+ to its doom ?r\gh g5]al debau*]ies4 ,ri* brocades1 once f ,damascus1 are n[ made 9 ,v5ice2 & s are wond]ful sat9s1 velvets & silks1 ) jewels _m & massive4 ,sometimes a broad jewell$ b& cross$ ! brea/ f %\ld] diagonally to "u arm1 at wai/4 ,! developm5t ( ! petticoat beg9s n[4 ,at fir/ we get only a glimpse ( x1 :5 our lady ( ! po9t$ cap lifts h] long skirts1 l9$ ) ano!r %ade4 ,x is ( a ri* contra/+ col\r & is gradually elaborat$4 ,! wai/-l9e1 :5 indicat$1 is high4 ,a new note is ! hair1 ) ?roat & neck completely conceal$ by a :ite veil1 a /yle we associate ) nuns & c]ta9 folk co/umes4 ,z fa%ion x _h a pass+ vogue4 ,orig9ally1 ! habit ( cov]+ woman's hair indicat$ mode/y 7an idea held among ! ,folk71 & ! gradual %r9k+ ( ! dim5sions ( h] coif1 records ! progress ( ! peasant woman's emancipation1 9 c]ta9 c\ntries4 ,?is is especially conspicu\s 9 ,brittany1 z ,m4 ,anatol ,le ,braz1 ! em95t ,breton s*ol>1 rem>k$ rec5tly to ! writ]4 ,note ! silk bag1 q mod]n1 on ! arm2 also ! jewell$ l9e ( *a9 hang+ f girdle d[n ! middle ( front1 to hem ( skirt1--bo? = use & ornam5t4 ,to u ( a practical era1 a my/]i\s *>m atta*es to ! long-po9t$ %oes worn at ?is p]iod4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 ! m>k$ division ( co/ume into wai/ & skirt beg9s1 ! wai/ l9e m & m p9*$ 91 ! skirt m & m full1 ! sleeves & neck m elaborately trimm$1 ! head-dresses multipli$ 9 size1 elaborat5ess & v>iety4 ,textiles develop$ ) weal? & o/5tation4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ! neck 0 usually cut out & worn l[ on ! %\ld]s1 sometimes fill$ 91 b we see also high necks2 necks ) small ruffs & necks ) l>ge ruffs2 ruffs turn$ d[n1 =m+ /iff l95-cape coll>s1 trimm$ ) lace1 close to ! ?roat or fl>+ f neck to %[ ! ?roat4 ,! hair is p>t$ & worn l[ 9 a snood1 or by "y wom51 fl[+4 ,! e>s are cov]$ ) ! hair4 ,,plate ,,xxii ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ we>+ "o ( ! fam\s ,=tuny tea g[ns4 ,?is "o has no tunic b is f9ely pleat$1 9 ! ,=tuny mann]1 & falls 9 long l9es1 closely foll[+ ! figure1 to ! floor4 ,obs]ve ! decorative value ( ! long /r+ ( beads4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,conde ,na/ 9 a ,=tuny ,tea ,g[n ,! ,virg9 9 ,art ,:5 writ+ ( ! ,go?ic p]iod 9 ,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration1 we h said 444 ,go?ic art proce$s f ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* & /ret*es l a canopy ov] we/]n ,europe dur+ ! late ,middle ,ages4 ,x 0 9 ! *ur*es & mona/]ies t ,*ri/ian ,art1 driv5 f pill> to po/ by w>s1 0 oblig$ to take refuge1 & !re produc$ t m>vell\s developm5t kn[n z ! ,go?ic /yle1 ( ! ,*ur*1 = ! ,*ur* & by ! ,*ur*1 p]fect$ 9 c\ntless ,go?ic ca!drals1 cry/allis$ glorias1 lift+ _! manifold spires to heav52 e!real monum5ts ( an intrepid ,fai? :i* gave mat]ial =m to its adoration1 its fa/+ & pray]1 9 an unrivall$ art4444 ,cry/allis$ glorias 7hymns to ! ,virg97 is z concise a def9+ ( ! nature & _s ( ?is highe/ type ( m$iaeval art--p]fect$ 9 ,france--z we c f9d4 ,"h we h deifi$ woman inspir+ an art miracul\sly decorative4 ,*>tres ,ca!dral & ,rheims 7be=e ! ,g]man invasion 9 #aiad7 ) ,mont ,sa9t ,mi*el1 are di/+ui%$ examples4 ,if ! read]s w\ld put to ! te/ our claim t woman z decoration is a beguil+ !me wor?y ( days pass$ 9 ! broad highways ( art1 & _m an h\r 9 cross-roads & unbeat5 pa?s1 we w\ld recomm5d to !m ! fasc9ations ( a m>vell\s /ory-tell]1 "o :o1 kn[+ all !re is to "k ( 8 subject1 has _h ! g5ius to weave ! innum]able & p]plex+ ?reads into a tape/ry ( words1 :]e ! ma9 ideas take _! places 9 ! =egr\nd1 /&+ out cle>ly def9$ aga9/ ! deftly wov51 intelligible b unobtrud+ backgr\nd4 ,! au?or is ,h5ry ,adams1 ! book1 ,! ,ca!drals ( ,mont ,/4 ,mi*el & ,*>tres4 ,he tells y 9 /rik+ language1 h[ woman 0 translat$ into pure decoration 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 woman z ! ,virg9 ,"m ( ,god1 ! manife/ation ( ,deity :i* took prec$5ce ov] all o!rs dur+ ! twelf?1 ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies2 & if y w foll[ him to ! ,*>tres ,ca!dral 7p>ticul>ly if y h be5 !re already71 & w /& fac+ ! great ,ea/ ,w9d[1 :]e 9 /a9$ glass ( ! anci5t jewell$ sort1 woman1 z ,"m ( ,god1 is en?ron$ above all1 he w tell y h[1 out ( ! *aos ( w>r+ religi\s ord]s1 ! prie/ly s*ools ( ,abel>d1 ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi & o!rs1 !re em]g$ ! =m ( ! ,virg94 ,to woman1 z "m ( ,god & man1 ! in/rum5t ( reproduction1 ( t5d] c>e1 ( mo!rhood1 ! disputati\s1 grop+ m9d ( man agre$ to b[1 sil5c$ & aw$ by ! my/]y ( h] call+4 ,9 view ( ! rec5t enroll+ ( womanhood 9 ! /up5d\s bus9ess ( ! w> n[ wag+ 9 ,europe1 & ! dem&s ^u h] to help 9 arm+ h] m5 or nurs+ back to life ! %att]$ rema9s ( fair y\?1 :i* s bravely w5t =?1 ! ?\ght comes t woman w play a l>ge "p 9 ! art to arise f ! a%es ( to-day4 ,woman z woman ready to supplem5t man1 p\r+ into life's caldron ! be/ ( h]self1 un/9t$1 unmeasur$2 woman capable ( s]v+ beyond h] /r5g?1 ris+ to h] greate/ height1 b5d+1 b n break+ to ! end1 if only assur$ %e is ne$$4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,! ,,r5aissance ,sixte5? & ,sev5te5? ,c5turies ,! m>k$ dep>ture is necks cut squ>e1 if l[1 & elaborate jewell$ *a9s drap$ f %\ld]s1 outl9+ neck ( g[n & describ+ a fe/oon on front ( wai/1 :i* is soon to become indep5d5t ( skirt to develop on its own acc\nt4 ,z 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 :5 necks 7 cut l[ (f ! %\ld]s1 !y 7 on occasions fill$ 9 ) tuck]s4 ,! skirt n[ regi/]s a new *>act]i/ic2 x p>ts at ! wai/ l9e ov] a petticoat1 & ! op5+ is decorat$ by ! ornam5tal1 heavy *a9 :i* hangs f girdle to hem ( g[n4 ,"o sees ! hair /ill worn coil$ l[ 9 ! neck1 conceal+ ! e>s & held 9 a snood or 9 ,italy cut ,flor5t9e fa%ion ) fr+e on br[4 ,obs]ve h[ ! weal? ( ! ,roman ,empire1 ?r\gh its new trade *annels op5+ up ) ! ,ea/ 7! result ( ! crusades7 l$ to ! importation ( ri* & _m-col\r$ ,ori5tal /uffs2 ! same weal? ultimately e/abli%$ looms 9 ,italy = mak+ silks & velvets1 to decorate man & 8 home4 ,!re 0 no long] simplicity 9 l9e & col\r s*eme2 gorge\s app>el fills ! frames ( ! ,r5aissance & makes amus+ read+ = ^? :o consult old docum5ts4 ,! clo!s ( man1 l 8 ov]-ornate furniture1 %[ a debau*$ & vulg> ta/e4 ,in/ead ( ! l9es :i* foll[ "o ano!r1 solid col\rs1 & trimm+s kept to hem ( neck & sleeve & skirt1 great designs1 9 sat9s & velvet brocades1 di/ort ! l9es & proportions ( man & woman4 ,! good ,go?ic l9es liv$ on 9 ! co/umes ( prie/s & nuns4 ,jewelry ceas$ to be decoration ) mean+2 lace & fr+e1 tassels & embroid]y1 ) col\r comb9ations to rival ! ,african p>rots1 disfigur$ man & woman alike4 ,dur+ ,novemb] ( #aiaf1 ,new ,york 0 s =tunate z to see1 at ! ,am]ican ,art ,gall]ies1 ! great collection ( late ,go?ic & e>ly ,r5aissance furniture & o!r art treasures1 br\ght toge!r 9 ! re/or$ ,davanzati ,palace ( ,flor5ce1 ,italy4 ,! collection 0 sold at auction1 & is n[ scatt]$4 ,( c\rse ^? :o saw x 9 its natural sett+ 9 ,flor5ce1 7 mo/ =tunate ( all4 ,b ) "s k & imag9ation1 at ! sight ( ^? wond]ful ?+s1--h&-made all ( !m1--! mo/ casual among ^? :o cr[d$ ! gall]ies = days1 mu/ h glean$ a vivid impression ( h[ woman ( ! ,e>ly ,r5aissance liv$1--9 h] kit*51 d9+-room1 b$room & reception-rooms4 ,!y display$ h] cook+ ut5sils1 h] *airs & tables1 h] silv]1 glass & e>!nw>e1 h] b$1 l951 sat9 damask1 lace & drawn "w2 ! cu%ions %e re/$ aga9/2 portraits 9 _! gorge\s ,flor5t9e frames1 %[+ u h[ ^? e>ly ,italians dress$2 ! color$ t]ra-cottas1 unspeakably beautiful pres5tm5ts ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild1 m\ld$ & pa9t$ by great arti/s "u t same exaltation ( ,fai? :i* br\ght into be+ ! si/] arts ( ! "t1 imbu+ !m ) some?+ truly div9e4 ,!re is no disput+ t quality :i* radiates f ! face ( bo? ! ,"m & ! ,*ild4 ,"o all b kneels be=e x4 ,_! expression is n ( ?is _w4 ,,plate ,,xxiii ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le :o set to-day's fa%ion 9 outl9e ( co/ume & %ort hair = ! "y woman ( ,am]ica4 ,= ?is reason & because ,mrs4 ,ca/le has =m to a sup]lative degree 7correct c>riage ( ! body7 & ! clo!s s5se 7k ( :at %e c we> & h[ to we> x7 we h select$ h] to illu/rate sev]al types ( co/umes1 *>act]i/ic ( #aiaf & #aiag4 ,ano!r reason = ask+ ,mrs4 ,ca/le to illu/rate our text is1 t :at ,mrs4 ,ca/le's pr(essional danc+ has done to develop & p]fect h] natural in/9ct = l9e1 ! normal ex]cise ( go+ ab\t "o's tasks & div]sions c d = any "y woman1 provid$ %e keep 9 m9d correct c>riage ( body :5 9 action or repose4 ,"h we see ,mrs4 ,ca/le 9 ball co/ume4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 ,ball ,co/ume ,t is woman z ! ,"m ( ,god 9 art ,woman z ! "m ( man1 :o look$ on ^! inspir$ works ( art1 liv$ = ! mo/ "p 9 small h\ses built ( wood ) ?at*$ ro(s1 unpav$ /reets1 dirty int]iors1 :i* 7 clean$ b once a week--on ,saturdays6 ,! m5 ( ! ari/ocracy hunt$ & engag$ 9 comm]ce1 & ! g5]al rank & file gave !mselves ov] to ! ga9+ ( money to increase _! p[]4 ,x s\nds n unlike ,new ,york to-day4 ,gradually ! cities grew l>ge & ri*4 ,p *ang$ f simple sob] liv+ to elaborate & less temp]ate ways1 & ! great families1 ) _! proportionately increas$ weal? ga9$ ?r\gh trade1 built beautiful palaces & built !m well4 ,! gorge\s col\r+ ( ! fresco$ walls %[s ,byzant9e influ5ce4 ,9 ,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration we h describ$ at l5g? ! h\se furni%+ ( t "t4 ,aga9/ ?is backgr\nd mov$ woman1 man's mate2 note h] col\r s*eme & !n h] role4 7,we quote f ,jahn ,rusconi 9 ,les ,arts1 ,p>is1 ,augu/1 #aiaa47 ,donna ,francesca dei ,albizzi's cloak ( black clo? ornam5t$ on a yell[ backgr\nd ) birds1 p>rots1 butt]flies1 p9k & r$ roses1 & a few o!r r$ & gre5 figures2 dragons1 lett]s & trees 9 yell[ & black1 & aga9 o!r figures made ( :ite clo? ) r$ & black /ripes4 ,extravagance ran high n only 9 dress1 b 9 ev]y?+1 laws 7 made to regulate ! am\nt sp5t on all =ms ( ent]ta9m5t1 ev5 on fun]als1 & ! cook :o 0 to prep>e a w$d+ fea/ _h to submit 8 m5u = approval to ! city au?orities4 ,m ?an ?is1 only two hundr$ gue/s c\ld be ask$ to a w$d+1 & ! numb] ( pres5ts :i* ! bride 0 all[$ to receive 0 limit$ by law4 ,b weal? & fa%ion ran away ) laws2 ! same old /ory4 ,z ! tide ( ! ,r5aissance rose & swept ov] ,europe 7! awak5+ began 9 ,italy71 ! woman ( ! gorge\s cloak & h] contempor>ies1 accord+ to ! vivid description ( ! la/ quot$ au?or1 7 subject to _! husb&s' tyranny1 n ev5 kn[+ h[ to read 9 _m cases1 occupi$ ) _! h\sehold duties1 9 :i* !y 7 assi/$ by r\gh & unc\? slaves1 ) no o!r mission 9 life ?an to give bir? to a num]\s po/]ity4444 ,?is life ru9$ !m1 & _! beauty quickly fad$ away2 no wond]1 !n1 t !y summon$ art to ! aid ( nature4 ,! cu/om 0 s common & ! art s p]fect t ev5 a pa9t] l ,taddeo ,gaddi ackn[l$g$ t ! ,flor5t9e wom5 7 ! be/ pa9t]s 9 ! _w6444 ,consid]+ ! m5tal /atus ( ! wom51 x is easy to imag9e to :at excesses !y 7 giv5 9 ! matt] ( dress4 ,! above ass]tions relate to ! av]age woman1 n ! great exceptions4 ,! m>riage c(f]s ( woman ( ! ,r5aissance 9 !mselves give an idea ( h] luxuri\s ta/es4 ,!y 7 ab\t six feet long1 ?ree feet high1 & two & a half feet deep4 ,"s _h dom$ cov]s op5+ on h+es--! :ole 0 c>v$1 gild$ & pa9t$1 ! backgr\nd ( r$s & blues ?r[+ ! gold into relief4 ,sc5es tak5 f my?ology 7 done 9 :at 0 kn[n z pa/ille1 composition "w rais$ & pa9t$ on a gold backgr\nd4 ,on "o fifte5? c5tury m>riage c(f]1 ,bac*us & ,ariadne 7 %[n 9 _! triumphal c> drawn by w+$ griff9s1 a "y ,bac*ante driv+ !m on4 ,ano!r c(f] decorat$ 9 ! same mann] _h z decoration ,! ,rape ( ,pros]p9e4 ,wom5 rock$ _! infants 9 sumptu\s c>v$ & emblazon$ walnut cradles1 & crimson sat9 damask cov]$ _! b$s & cu%ions4 ,?is blaze ( gold & silv]1 crimson & blue we f9d z ! wake ( ,byzant9e trade1 via ,con/ant9ople1 ,v5ice1 ,rome1 ,flor5ce on to ,france1 ,spa91 ,g]many1 ,holl&1 ,fl&]s & ,engl&4 ,c>v$ wood1 crimson1 gre5 & blue velvets1 sat9 damask1 tape/ries1 gold & silv] fr+e & lace4 ,aga9/ all ?is mov$ woman1 co/um$ sumptu\sly4 ,gradually ! l9e ( woman's 7& man's7 neck is lo/ 9 a ruff1 h] sweep+ locks1 in/ead ( p>t$ on h] br[1 entw9$ ) pe>ls or o!r gems to frame h] face & make long l9es d[n ! l5g? ( h] robe1 are huddl$ "u grotesque head-dresses1 mon/r\s creations1 ris+ & spread+ until !y become c>icatures1 defy+ art4 ,9 "s sixte5? c5tury ,italian portraits we see ! ruff fl>+ f a neck cut out squ>e & l[ 9 front1 !n ris+ beh9d to =m a head cov]+4 ,! la/ half ( ! sixte5? c5tury is m>k$ by g[ns cut high 9 ! neck ) a close coll>1 & ! appe>ance ( a small ruff encircl+ ! ?roat4 ,?is ruff almo/ at once increas$ to absurd dim5sions4 ,! tightly lac$ long-po9t$ bodice n[ appe>s1 ) & )\t padd$ hips4 7,! sup]lative degree ( ?is type is to be se5 9 portraits by ,velasquez 7see ,plate ,,ix747 ,long po9t$ toes to ! %oes give way to broad1 squ>e ones4 ,ano!r sixte5? c5tury dep>ture is ! absurdly small hat1 plac$ z if by ! w9d1 at a c>eless angle on ! hair1 :i* is curl$ & pil$ high4 ,also we see hats ( normal size ) _m plumes1 on bo? m5 & wom54 ,notice ! sleeves3 "s are /ill fl[+1 ) tight und]sleeves1 o!rs sla%$ to %[ full :ite sleeve b5ea?4 ,b mo/ important ( all is t ! g5]al lic5se1 moral & arti/ic1 lays its ru?less h& on woman's beautiful1 sweep+ %\ld] l9e & di/orts x4 ,anne ( ,cleves1 or ! progressive arti/ :o pa9t$ h]1 %[s 9 a portrait ! ,que5's fl[+ sleeves ) m$iaeval l9es1 clasp$ by a broad b& betwe5 elb[ & %\ld]1 & !n pu%$ up until ! sleeve =ms an ugly puff4 ,a mon/r\s fa%ion1 ?is1 & "o soon to appe> 9 a ?\s& mad =ms4 ,its fir/ vici\s dep>ture is t small puffy1 s5selessly ins9uat$ l9e betwe5 arm-hole & top ( sleeve 9 g>m5ts = m5 z well z wom54 ,skirts button f po9t ( basque to feet j be=e we see !m1 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 p>t+ d[n ! front & sep>at+ to %[ a petticoat4 ,9 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s "t ! acme ( ?is /yle 0 rea*$ by ,spani% wom5 z we see 9 ,velasquez's portraits4 ,gradually ! ov]skirt is loop$ back1 7at fir/ only a few in*es71 & ti$ ) n>r[ ribbons4 ,,plate ,,xxiv ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 ,w9t] aft]noon co/ume1 "o :i* is s suit$ to h] type & at ! same "t cons]vative z to outl9e & detail1 t x w\ld h *>m :e!r 9 /yle or n4 ,illu/ration3 ,victor ,georg--,*icago ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 ,aft]noon ,co/ume--,w9t] ,! second qu>t] ( ! sev5te5? c5tury %[s ! wai/ l9e drawn 9 & bodice ) skirts a few in*es 9 dep?4 ,^! skirts are ! hall-m>k ( a basque4 ,v %ort1 full coats fl>+ f "u arms n[ appe>4 ,aft] ! skirt has be5 pu%$ back & held ) ribbons1 we f9d gradually all fulness ( upp] skirt pu%$ to hips to =m pani]s1 & across ! back to =m a bu/le effect1 until we h ! ,m>ie ,anto9ette type1 late eighte5? c5tury4 ,f> m graceful & s$uisant ?an ! co/ume ( ,que5 ,elizabe?'s "t4 ,! figures pres5t$ by ,m>ie ,anto9ette & h] c\rt1 p[d]$ wigs & pat*es1 pani]s & enorm\s hats1 surm\nt+ ! horsehair erections1 heavy ) p[d] & grease1 lace1 ribbon fl[]s & jewels1 are qua9t1 delightful & div]t+1 b n to be comp>$ ) ! ,greek or m$iaeval l9es 9 woman's co/ume4 ,extremely ext5d$ skirts gave way to an int]lude ( full skirts1 b fl[+ l9es 9 ! eighte5? c5tury ,engli% portraits4 ,! ,directoire reaction t[>ds simplicity 0 influ5c$ by ,engli% fa%ion4 ,empire =mality "u classic influ5ce came next4 ,!n ,victorian hoops :i* 7 succe$$ by ! ,victorian bu/les1 pantalets1 black velvet at ?roat & wri/s1 & lockets4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,! eighte5? c5tury is unique by reason ( sci5tific discov]ies1 me*anical inv5tions & *emical a*ievem5ts1 c\pl$ ) ! gigantic political upheaval ( ! ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,x is unique1 di/+ui%$ & enorm\sly fruitful4 ,= example1 ! mod]n fr5zy = *9tz1 :i* has made our homes bur/ into bloom 9 endless v>iety1 _h its orig9 9 ! eighte5? c5tury looms at ,j\y1 ne> ,v]sailles1 "u ! direction ( ,ob]kampf4 ,be=e #agfj silks & velvets decorat$ man & 8 home4 ,royal patronage co-op]at+ ) ! influ5ce ( su* great decorators z ,p]ci] & ,fonta9e gave ! creat+ ( beautiful /uffs to ! silk factories ( ,lyons4 ,pr9t$ l95s & pa9t$ wall pap]s appe>$ 9 ,france simultane\sly1 & = ! same reason4 ,! ,revolution set mass-ta/e 7:i* is (t5 /rong] ?an individual incl9ation71 t[>d uno/5tati\s1 inexp5sive mat]ials = h\se furni%+ & we>+ app>el4 ,! ,revolution _h driv5 out royalty & ! high ari/ocracy :o1 ) *ang$ names liv$ 9 seclusion4 ,society1 !re=e1 to meet ! mass-desire1 0 driv5 to simple ways ( liv+4 ,m5 gave up _! silks & velvets & frills1 lace & jewels = clo?1 l951 & sombre neck-clo?s4 ,! wom5 did ! same2 !y wore musl9 g[ns & _! own hair1 & w5t to great l5g? 9 ! affectation ( simplicity & patriotic f]v\r4 ,we he> t1 apropos ( ,am]ica hav+ at ?is mom5t ent]$ ! great /ruggle ) ! ,c5tral ,p[]s1 simplicity is decre$ z sm>t = ! com+ season1 & t ^? :o co/ume !mselves extravagantly1 furni% _! homes o/5tati\sly or all[ _! tables to be lavi%1 w be fr[n$ ^u z bad =m & unpatriotic4 ,^! reactions are inevitable1 & come ab\t ) ! regul>ity ( tides 9 ?is _w ( p]petual repetition4 ,! belles ( ! ,directorate %ook _! heads & bobb$ _! pretty locks at ! artificiality ,m>ie ,anto9ette et cie _h practis$4 ,i fe> !y call$ x s9ful art to deftly place a pat* ^u ! face1 or make a head-dress 9 ! image ( a man-(-w>4 ,mme4 de ,/ael's famili> head-dress1 twi/$ & wrapp$ ar\nd h] head a la ,turque1 is said to h _h its orig9 9 ! improvisation ( ! c\rt hairdress]4 ,desp]ately grop+ = ano!r v]sion ( ! top-heavy erection1 to hum\r ! lovely que51 he seiz$ ^u a piece ( f9e lace & musl9 hang+ on a *air at h&1 & twi/+ x1 wrapp$ ! ?+ ab\t ! t[]+ wig4 ,z x happ5$1 ! *iffon 0 my lady's *emise6 ,we beg9 ! eighte5? c5tury ) a full petticoat1 trimm$ ) r[s ( ruffles or b&s2 an ov]skirt loop$ back into pani]s to =m ! bu/le effect2 ! natural hair p[d]$2 & head-dress ( lace1 /&+ out /iffly 9 front & droop+ 9 a curta9 beh9d4 ,x 0 n until ! :im ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette decre$ x s1 t ! enorm\s p[d]$ wigs appe>$4 ,vi5nese temp]am5t alone acc\nts = ! moods ( ?is lovely tragic que51 :o play$ at mak+ butt]1 9 a cap & apron1 ov] simple musl9 frocks1 b outdid h] artificial age 9 love ( artifice 7n ,art7 9 dress4 ,?is gay & da9ty puppet ( rel5tless ,fate propell$ by v>y+ moods mu/ ne$s lose h] lovely head at la/1 z symbol ( h] "t4 ,,plate ,,xxv ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 a summ] aft]noon co/ume appropriate = city or c\ntry & s adapt$ to ! we>]'s type t %e is a picture1 :e!r 9 action2 seat$ on h] own por*2 hav+ tea at ! c\ntry club2 or 9 ! ,w9t] sun-p>l\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 ,aft]noon ,co/ume--,summ] ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,woman ,,9 ,,! ,,victorian ,,p]iod ,! fir/ sev5ty ye>s ( ! n9ete5? c5tury seem to u ( #aiag absolutely incr$ible 9 reg>d to dress4 ,h[ our great-great-gr&mo!rs ev] got ab\t on foot1 9 a c>riage or /age-coa*1 mov$ 9 a cr[d or ev5 sat 9 any measure ( s]5ity at home1 is a my/]y to u ( an age :5 com=t1 conv5i5ce1 fitness & *ic h at la/ come to t]ms4 ,= a vivid picture ( h[ our ,am]ican society look$ betwe5 #ahjj & #ahgj1 read ,miss ,elizabe? ,mc,clellan's ,hi/oric ,dress 9 ,am]ica1 publi%$ 9 #aiaj by ,george ,w4 ,jacobs ,co41 ( ,philadelphia4 ,! book is fasc9at+ & x n only amuses & in=ms1 b increases "o's self-respect1 if a woman1 = mod]n woman dress$ 9 accordance ) h] role4 ,we c see extravagant wives po9t out ) glee to tyrant mates h[1 9 ! span ( ye>s betwe5 #ahjj & #ahgj our mat]nal =ebe>s made money fly1 ev5 9 ! ,quak] ,city4 ,fancy pay+ 9 ,philadelphia at t "t1 #aejj = a lace sc>f1 #djj = a %awl1 #ajj = ! av]age g[n ( silk1 & #ej = a ,fr5* bonnet6 ,miss ,mc,clellan1 quot+ f ,mrs4 ,rog] ,pryor's ,memoirs1 tells h[ %e1 ,mrs4 ,pryor1 z a "y girl 9 ,wa%+ton1 0 awak5$ at midnight by a note f ! daught] ( h] ,fr5* mill9] to say t a box ( bonnets _h arriv$ f ,p>is4 ,mamma _h n yet unpack$ !m & if %e w\ld come at once1 %e might h h] pick ( ! treasures1 & ,mamma n "k until too late to int]f]e4 ,& ?is 0 only back 9 ! #ej's1 we %\ld say4 ,!n ?9k ( ! hoops1 & wigs & absurdly furbi%$ head-dresses2 pap]-sol$ %oes1 "s int5d$ only to sit 92 bonnets enorm\s2 laces ( cobweb2 %awls f ,india by camel & sail+ craft2 r\ge1 too1 & hair grease1 pat*es & p[d]2 lac$ wai/s & cramp$ feet2 l[ necks & %ort sleeves = *ildr5 9 s*ool-rooms4 ,man 0 !n /ill decorative "h & 9 we/]n ,europe4 ,to-day he is n decorative1 unless 9 sports clo!s or milit>y uni=m2 woman's g>m5ts furni% all ! col\r4 ,:i/l] circumv5t$ ?is fact :5 pa9t+ ,!odore ,duret 7,metropolitan ,museum7 9 sombre black broadclo?1--mod]n ev5+ attire1 by fl++ ov] ! arm ( ,duret1 ! delicate p9k taffeta & *iffon cloak ( a woman1 & 9 ,m4 ,duret's h& he places a clos$ fan ( pomegranate r$4 ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,sex ,,9 ,,co/um+ ,european dress is ! t]m accept$ to imply ! co/ume ( man & woman :i* is entirely cosmopolitan1 decry+ cont9uity ( types 7( co/ume7 & ?or\ghly pla/ic 9 ! h&s ( fa%ion4 ,to-day1 we say p>rot-l1 t c]ta9 mat]ials1 l9es & col\rs are mascul9e or fem99e4 ,!y are s m]ely by association4 ,! mod]n co/um+ ( man ! _w ov]1 if he appe> 9 ,european dress 7we except c\rt regalia71 is conf9$ to clo?1 l95 or cotton1 9 black1 :ite & inconspicu\s col\rs2 a prescrib$ & simple type ( neckwe>1 footwe>1 hat1 /ick1 & hair cut4 ,! prog5itor ( ! g>m5ts ( mod]n m5 0 ! ,lu!ran-,puritan-,revolution>y g>b1 ! hall-m>k ( democracy4 ,x is true t :5 silk 0 fir/ introduc$ into ,europe1 f ! ,ori5t1 ! ,greeks & e>ly ,romans consid]$ x too effem9ate = man's use1 b ?is _h to d ) ! doctr9e ( au/]e d5ial = ! good ( ! /ate4 ,to we> ! co/ume ( indol5ce impli$ inactivity & induc$ x4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 "s ( ! ma/] spirits ( ,greece did we> silks4 ,9 ,anci5t ,egypt1 ,assyria1 ,m$ia1 ,p]sia & ! ,f> ,ea/1 m5 & wom5 wore ! same mat]ials1 z 9 ,*9a & ,japan to-day4 ,egyptian m5 & _! contempor>ies ?r\gh\t ,byzantium1 wore g[ns1 9 outl9e id5tical ) ^? ( ! wom54 ,among ! ,turks1 tr\s]s 7 always consid]$ z appropriate = wom5 z = m51 & bo? m5 & wom5 wore ov] ! tr\s]s1 a long g>m5t n unlike ^? ( ! wom5 9 ! ,go?ic p]iod4 ,?ais wore a gild$ wig1 b s did ! m5 %e knew1 & !y add$ gild$ false be>ds4 ,assyrian k+s wore e>r+s1 bracelets & wond]ful clasps ) *a9s1 by :i* ! folds ( _! drap$ g>m5t1--cut l ! woman's1 might be caught up & held securely1 leav+ feet1 arms & h&s free = action4 ,:5 ! g5ius ( ! ,byzant9e1 ,greek & ,v5etian manufactur]s ( silks & velvets1 ri* 9 texture & ablaze ) col\r1 7 (f]$ = sale to ! ,romans1 ^: passion = display _h increas$ ) _! =tunes1 & consequ5t lives ( dissipation1 we f9d !re 0 no di/9ction made betwe5 ! mat]ials us$ by man & woman4 ,x is no exagg]ation to say t ! ,r5aissance spells brocade4 ,great designs & small ones sprawl$ ov] ! figures ( man & woman alike4 ,lace 0 z mu* 8 z h]s to use = wide1 elaborate coll>s & cuffs4 ,embroid]y belong$ to bo?1 & ! m5 7l ! wom57 ( ,g]many1 ,france1 ,italy & ,engl& wore _m plumes on _! big /raw hats & metal helmets4 ,! int]communication betwe5 ! ,ori5t & all ( ! c\ntries ( ! ,we/]n ,hemisph]e1 & ! abundance & v>iety ( human trapp+s bewild]$ & vitiat$ ta/e4 ,un=tunately ! *ange 9 l9e ( co/ume has n mov$ p>allel to ! l9e 9 furniture4 ,! revival ( classic int]ior decoration 9 ,italy1 ,spa91 ,france1 ,g]many1 ,engl&1 etc41 did n at once revive ! classic l9es 9 woman's clo!s4 ,,plate ,,xxvi ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le co/um$ a la gu]re = a walk 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! cap is aft] "o worn by h] aviator husb&4 ,?is is "o ( ! co/umes--!re are _m--be+ worn by wom5 engag$ 9 w> "w "u ! head ( mess5g]s1 *auffeurs1 etc4 ,! %oes are mo/ decid$ly n = s]vice1 b !y w be replac$ :5 ! "t is at h&1 = o!rs ( /\t lea!r ) heavy soles & flat heels4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le ,co/um$ a la ,gu]re = a ,walk ,,*apt] ,,xxi ,,l9e ,,& ,,col\r ,,( ,,co/umes ,,9 ,,hung>y ,! idea t man decorative1 by reason ( col\r or l9e 9 co/ume1 is ( necessity ei!r masqu]ad+ or effem9ate1 proce$s *iefly f ! conv5tional n9ete5? & tw5tie? c5tury po9t ( view 9 ,am]ica & we/]n ,europe4 ,b ev5 9 ^? p>ts ( ! _w we are accu/om$ to col\r 9 ! uni=ms ( army & navy1 ! crimson hood ( ! univ]sity doctor1 & r$ sa% ( ! ,fr5* ,legion ( ,hon\r4 ,we accept col\r z a dignifi$ attribute ( man's attire 9 ! cases cit$1 & we d n =get t our e>ly n9ete5? c5tury ,am]ican mascul9e =ebe>s wore bright blue or vivid gre5 coats1 silv] & brass buttons & r$ or yell[ wai/coats4 ,! g5tleman sportsman ( ! e>ly n9ete5? c5tury hunt$ 9 bright blue tail$ coats ) brass buttons1 sc>let wai/coat1 tight bree*es & top hat6 ,we ref] to ! same class ( man :o to-day we>s r\gh1 natural col\r$ twe$s1 lea!r coat & close cap t 8 prey may n see him4 ,9 a s5se1 col\r is a sign ( virility :5 us$ by man4 ,we h ! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indian ) 8 gay fea!rs1 blankets & w> pa9t1 & ! ,european peasant 9 8 gala co/ume4 ,9 _m cases col\r is z mu* 8 z 8 woman's4 ,"s ye>s ago1 :5 collect+ data conc]n+ national *>act]i/ics z express$ 9 ! art ( ! ,slavs1 ,magy>s & ,cze*s1 ! writ] /udi$ ^! peoples 9 _! native sett+s4 ,we w5t fir/ to ,hung>y & 7 disappo9t$ to f9d ,buda ,pe/ f> too cosmopolitan to be ( value = ! /udy ( national co/ume1 music or drama4 ,! dom9at+ & mo/ arti/ic elem5t 9 ,hung>y is ! ,magy>1 & we 7 !re to /udy him4 ,b ev5 ! ,gypsies :o play$ ! ,magy> music 9 our hotel or*e/ra1 wore ! black ev5+ dress ( we/]n ,europe & pat5t lea!r %oes1 & ! music !y play$ 0 f ! mo/ mod]n op]ettas4 ,x 0 n until a _w-fam\s ,hung>ian viol9i/ arriv$ to give conc]ts 9 ,buda ,pe/ t ! national _s ( ! ,gypsies 0 /irr$ to play ! ,magy> airs 9 8 hon\r4 7,gypsies take on ! _s ( any adopt$ l&74 ,we !n realis$ :at !y c\ld make ( ! ,recockzy m>* & o!r folk music4 ,! exp]i5ce ( t ev5+ spurr$ u to p5etrate into s\!rn ,hung>y1 ! he>t ( ,magy> l&1 arm$ ) lett]s ( introduction1 f "o ( ! m9i/]s ( education1 to mayors ( ! peasant villages4 ,x 0 impossible to get on )\t an int]pret]1 z usually ev5 ! mayors knew only ! ,magy> language--n a ^w ( ,g]man4 ,t 0 ! p]fect region = gett+ at ,magy> "* express$ 9 ! col\r & l9e ( co/ume1 mann] ( liv+1 po9t ( view1 folk song & dance4 ,x is all /ill vividly cle> to our m9d's eye4 ,we saw ! fir/ ,magy> co/umes 9 a village n f> f ,buda ,pe/4 ,to make ! few miles quickly1 we _h tak5 an electric trolley1 va/ly sup]ior to any?+ 9 ,new ,york at ! "t ( :i* we speak2 & 7 let (f 9 ! c5tre ( a gr\p ( small1 l[ ?at*$ cottages1 :ite-wa%$1 & hav+ a broad b& ( "o1 two or ?ree col\rs1 ext5d+ f ! gr\nd to ab\t ?ree feet above x1 & completely encircl+ ! h\se4 ,! fav\rite comb9ation seem$ to be blue & r$1 9 p>allel /ripes4 ,ne> "o ( ^! h\ses we saw a v old woman ) a long la%$ :ip 9 h] h&1 gu>d+ two or ?ree d>k1 curly1 long-legg$ ,hung>ian pigs4 ,%e wore high boots1 _m %ort skirts1 a %awl & a head-k]*ief4 ,pres5tly two o!r figures caught our eye3 a man 9 a long cape to ! tops ( 8 boots1 made ( %eepsk91 ! wool inside1 ! outside decorat$ ) bright-col\r$ wools1 outl9+ crude designs4 ,! black fur coll> 0 ! sk9 ( a small black lamb1 legs & tail %[+1 z :5 /ripp$ (f ! little animal4 ,! man wore a cone-%ap$ hat ( black lamb & 8 hair rea*$ to 8 %\ld]s4 ,he smok$ a v long-/emm$ pipe ) a *9a b[l1 z he /roll$ along4 ,beh9d him a woman walk$1 b[$ by ! weight ( an imm5se sack4 ,%e wore boots to ! knees1 _m full %ort skirts1 & a yell[ & r$ silk head-k]*ief4 ,by h] head-cov]+ we knew h] to be a m>ri$ woman4 ,!y 7 a f>m] & 8 wife6 ,among ! ,magy>s ! man is v decid$ly ! peacock2 ! woman is ! pack-horse4 ,on m>ket days he l\nges 9 ! sun%9e1 wrapp$ 9 8 long %eepsk9 cape1 & smokes1 :ile %e plies ! trade4 ,9 ! f>m]s' homes ( s\!rn ,hung>y :]e we pass$ "s "t1 we1 z ,am]icans1 sat at table ) ! m5 ( ! h\se1 :ile wife & daught] s]v$4 ,!re 0 "o l>ge di% ( food 9 ! c5tre1 into :i* e "o dipp$6 ,! wom5 ( ! peasant class nev] sit at table ) _! m52 !y s]ve !m & eat aft]w>ds1 & !y always address !m 9 ! second p]son z1 ,w y\r graci\sness h a cup ( c(fee8 ,also !y always walk beh9d ! m54 ,at c\ntry dances we h se5 "y girls 9 bright1 v full skirts1 ) _m ribbons braid$ into ! hair1 clu/] %yly at a %ort di/ance f ! danc+ plat=m 9 ! fair gr\nds1 wait+ to be beckon$ or :i/l$ to by "o ( ! /urdy y\?s ) sk9-tight tr\s]s1 tuck$ into high boots1 :o by "r ( might1 has /ation$ himself on ! plat=m4 ,:5 !y h danc$1 g5]ally a cz>das1 ! girl goes back to ! gr\p ( wom51 leav+ ! man on ! plat=m 9 comm& ( ! situation6 ,yet already 9 #ahig wom5 7 be+ admitt$ to ! ,univ]sity ( ,buda ,pe/4 ,!re 9 ,hung>y "o c\ld see woman run ! :ole gamut ( h] developm5t1 f man's slave to man's equal4 ,,plate ,,xxvii ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le 9 "o ( h] danc+ co/umes4 ,%e 0 snapp$ by ! cam]a z %e sprang into a pose ( m]e joy\s ab&on at ! conclusion ( a long s]ies ( m or less exact+ poses4 ,mrs4 ,ca/le assures u t to repeat ! effect produc$ "h1 9 :i* cam]a1 lucky *ance & fav\rable w9d comb9$1 w\ld be well-nigh impossible4 ,illu/ration3 ,mrs4 ,v]non ,ca/le ,a ,fantasy ,we f\nd ! national col\r s*eme to h ! same viol5t contra/s :i* *>act]ise ! folk music & ! folk poetry ( ! ,magy>s4 ,primitive man has no use = half-tones4 ,x 0 ! same ) ! ,russian peasants & ) ! ,poles4 ,our fir/ morn+ 9 ,krakau a great clatt]+ ( :eels & horses' ho(s on ! cobbl$ c\rt ( our hotel1 accompani$ by ! crack+ ( a :ip & voices1 drew u to our w9d[4 ,at fir/ we ?\ght a /roll+ circus _h arriv$1 b no1 t man ) ! r$ cr[n to 8 black fur cap1 a peacock's fea!r fa/5$ to x by a fanta/ic broo*1 0 j an ord9>y f>m] 9 ,sunday g>b4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,krakau ! "y m5 we> frock coats ( :ite clo?1 ov] bright r$1 %ort tight coats1 & _! light-col\r$ sk9-tight tr\s]s1 worn inside knee boots1 are embroid]$ 9 black d[n ! fronts4 ,"o aft]noon we 7 ! gue/s ( a ,poli% pa9t]1 :o _h m>ri$ a pretty peasant1 8 model4 ,he 0 a g5tleman by bir? & bre$+1 _h /udi$ art 9 ,p>is & spoke ,fr5*1 ,g]man & ,engli%4 ,8 wife1 a *ild ( ! soil1 knew only ! dialect ( h] own prov9ce1 b ) ! s5sitive response ( a ,pole1 eag]ly wait$ to h translat$ to h] :at ! ,am]icans 7 say+ ( life among wom5 9 _! c\ntry4 ,%e s]v$ u ) tea & liquor1 ! r$ heels ( h] high boots click+ on ! wood5 floor z %e mov$ ab\t4 ,z col\r & z l9e1 ( a k9d1 t "y ,poli% woman 0 a fea/ to ! eye2 full sc>let skirt1 /&+ out ov] _m petticoats & rea*+ only to ! tops ( h] knee boots1 full :ite bodice1 a sleeveless jacket to ! wai/ l9e1 made ( brightly col\r$ cretonne1 outl9$ ) col\r$ beads2 a bright yell[ head-k]*ief b\nd h] s(t br[n hair2 h] eyes 7 br[n1 & h] sk9 l a yell[ pea*4 ,on h] neck hung /r+s ( coral & amb] beads4 ,!re 0 inde$ a decorative woman6 ,z = h] backgr\nd1 x 0 simple en\gh to ?r[ into relief ! brilliant vision t %e 04 ,n1 h[ev]1 a s*eme ( int]ior decoration to copy6 ,! walls 7 :itewa%$2 a l>ge /ove ( masonry 0 built into "o corn]1 & f\r b$s & a cradle /ood on ! o!r side ( ! room1 ov] :i* hung 9 a r[ five virg9s1 ! c5tral "o be+ ! ,black ,virg9 belov$ by ! ,poles4 ,! leg5d is t ! orig9al 0 pa9t$ dur+ ! life ( ! ,virg91 on a panel ( d>k wood4 ,"h1 too1 0 ! m>riage *e/1 decorat$ ) a crude design 9 bright col\rs4 ,! *ildr51 ?ree or f\r ( !m1 ran ab\t 9 ! national co/ume1 m9iatures ( _! "m1 b b>efoot4 ,x 0 ! same 9 ,hung>y1 :5 we 7 tak5 by ! mayor ( a ,magy> t[n to visit ! *>act]i/ic f>mh\se ( a highly prosp]\s f>m]1 said to be wor? two hundr$ ?\s& doll>s4 ,! table 0 laid 9 ! end ( a room hav+ f\r b$s 9 x4 ,on inquir+ lat]1 we 7 told t !y 7 n ord9>ily us$ by ! family1 b 7 heap$ ) ! res]ve b$d+4 ,9 o!r words1 !y 7 recognis$ by ! natives z indicat+ a degree ( afflu5ce1 & 7 a bit ( o/5tation1 n ! ov]cr[d+ ( necessity4 ,,*apt] ,,xxii ,,/udy+ ,,l9e ,,& ,,col\r ,,9 ,,russia ,f ,hung>y we cont9u$ our que/ ( l9e & col\r ( folk co/ume into ,russia4 ,/rangely en\gh1 ,russia ?r[s (f ! imp]ial yoke ( autocracy1 decl>+ = democratic pr9ciples1 at ! v mom5t we und]take to put into words ! vivid picturesqu5ess result+ l>gely f ! causes ( ?is a/\nd+ revolution4 ,h y be5 9 ,russia8 ,h y se5 ) y\r own eyes any phase ( ! viol5t contra/s :i* at la/ h caus$ ! worm to turn8 ,our object be+ to /udy national *>act]i/ics z express$ 9 folk co/ume1 folk song1 folk dance1 traditional cu/oms & fetes1 we consult$ /ud5ts ( ^! subjects1 :om we *anc$ to meet 9 ,london1 ,p>is1 ,vi5na & ,buda ,pe/1 ) ! result t we turn$ our faces t[>d s\!rn or ,little ,russia1 z ! "p lea/ affect$ by cosmopolitan influ5ces4 ,kiev 0 our headqu>t]s1 & x is well to say at once t we f\nd :at we s\ght1--ample opportunity to obs]ve ! g5u9e ,russian1 ! /urdy1 dogg$1 plodd+ son ( toil1 :o1 m ?an any o!r ,european peasant seems a "p ( ! soil1 :i* 9 sull5 p]si/5cy he tills4 ,we knew already ! ,russians ( ,petrograd & ,mosc[2 "o meets !m 9 ,p>is1 ,london1 ,vi5na1 at ,g]man & ,au/rian ,cures & on ! ,rivi]a4 ,!y are ev]y:]e & always di/9ctive by reason ( _! ,slav temp]am5t2 a magnetic race quality :i* is ,asiatic 9 its ess5ce4 ,we recognise x1 we are /irr$ by x1 we are drawn to x 9 _! lit]ature1 _! music1 _! pa9t+ & 9 ! ,russian p !mselves4 ,! quality is an integral "p ( ,russian nature2 poli%+ m]ely increases its attraction z ) a gem4 ,"o in/ance ( ?is is ! folk melody z treat$ by ,ts*aik[sky comp>$ ) its simple =m z sung or danc$ by ! peasant4 ,,plate ,,xxviii ,a skat+ co/ume worn by ,miss ,weld ( ,bo/on1 hold] ( ! ,woman's ,figure ,skat+ ,*ampion%ip4 ,?is photograph 0 tak5 9 ,new ,york on ,m>* #bc1 #aiag1 :5 amateurs conte/$ = ! cup & ,miss ,weld won--?is "t ov] ! m54 ,! co/ume ( w9e-col\r$ velvet trimm$ ) mole-sk91 a small close toque to mat*1 0 "o ( ! mo/ appropriate & attractive models ( #aiaf-aiag4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,new ,york ,h]ald ,mod]n ,skat+ ,co/ume #aiag ,w9n] ( ,amateur ,*ampion%ip ( ,fancy ,skat+ ,"s ( ! ,russian wom5 ( ! fa%ionable _w are v decorative4 ,our fir/ impression ( ?is type 0 9 ,p>is1 at ! ,russian ,*ur* on ,*ri/mas 7or 0 x "s o!r holy day87 :5 to ! amazem5t ( ! un9itiat$ ! ,russian wom5 ( ! ari/ocracy appe>$ at ! morn+ s]vice hatless & 9 full ev5+ dress1 we>+ jewels z if = a function at "s secul> c\rt4 ,_! mascul9e escorts appe>$ 9 full regalia1 ! light ( ! alt> c&les add+ my/]y to ! glitt] ( gold lace & jewels4 ,^? occasions are picturesque 9 ! extreme4 ,! congregation /&s1 z 9 ! ,jewi% synagogues1 & ^? ( highe/ rank are ne>e/ ! alt>1 inv>iably ablaze ) gold1 silv] & preci\s /ones1 :ile on occasions ! prie/ we>s clo? ( gold4 ,9 ,p>is ?is backgr\nd & ! :ole sc5e 0 accept$ z a "p ( ! pageant ( t city1 b 9 ,kiev x 0 diff]5t4 ,!re we got ! o!r side ( ! picture2 ! man & ! woman :o are really ,russia1 ! elem5t t f9ds an outlet 9 ! folk music1 = its age-old rebelli\s submission4 ,"o he>s ! s\l ( ! ,russian pulsat+ 9 ! cont9u$ reit]ation ( ! same !me2 x is l ! endless treadmill ( a life )\t vi/as4 ,we 7 look+ at ! ,russia ( ,maxim ,gorky1 ! ,russia t made ,tol/oy a re=m]2 t has n[ =c$ its ,cz> to abdicate4 ,we rea*$ ,kiev j be=e ! ,ea/] ( ! ,greek ,*ur*1 ! season :5 ! pilgrims1 (t5 z _m z fifty ?\s& ( !m1 tramp ov] ! froz5 roads f all p>ts ( ! empire to expiate _! s9s1 kneel+ at ! %r9e ( "o ( _! mummi$1 sa9t$ bi%ops4 ,! m5 & wom5 alike1 clad 9 grimy %eepsk9 coats1 mov$ l cattle 9 /raggl+ droves1 ov] ! roads :i* lead to ,kiev4 ,f a di/ance "o _c tell man f woman1 b z !y come clos]1 "o sees t ! woman has a bright k]*ief ti$ r\nd h] head1 & r$ or blue peasant embroid]y dribbles bel[ h] %eepsk9 coat4 ,%e is z /ocky z a ,%etl& pony & h] face is wea!r-beat51 ) high *eekbones & br[n eyes4 ,! man we>s a black a/ra*an conical cap & 8 hair is long & bu%y1 f rubb+ be> grease into x4 ,he walks ) a crook$ /aff1 biblical 9 /yle1 & c>ries 8 worldly goods 9 a small bundle flung ov] 8 %\ld]4 ,! woman c>ries h] own small burd54 ,z !y %uffle pa/1 a /5* arises f ! human h]d4 ,x comes f ! %eepsk91 :i* is work$ 91 slept 91 &1 :at is m1 (t5 inh]it$ f a p>5t :o _h also worn x z 8 w9t] hide4 ,add$ to ! smell ( ! %eepsk9 is t ( an unwa%$ human1 & ! reek ( /ale food1 = ! poore/ ( ! ,russian peasants h no *imneys to _! h\ses4 ,!y _c af=d to let ! co/ly heat escape4 ,kiev1 ! holy city & capital ( ,anci5t ,russia1 climbs f its ance/ral beg9n+s1 on ! banks ( ! ,riv] ,dneip]1 up ! /eep sides & ov] ! summit ( a comm&+ hilltop1 cr[n$ by an imm5se gold cross1 illum9$ ) electricity by night1 to fla% its message ( hope to foot-sore pilgrims4 ,! driv] ( our drosky drove u ov] ! r\gh cobbles s rapidly1 despite ! hill1 t we 7 almo/ ov]turn$4 ,x is ! mann] ( ,russian drosky driv]s4 ,! ca!dral1 our goal1 0 sn[y-:ite1 ) frescoes on ! out] walls1 onion-%ap$ domes ( bronze turn$ gre52 or gold1 or blue ) />s ( gold4 ,we ent]$ & f\nd ! body ( ! *ur* well fill$ by peasants1 wom5 & m5 9 %eepsk94 ,"o poor doe-ey$ creature cr\*$ to press 8 =ehead tw5ty times at lea/ on ! /one floor ( ! *ur*4 ,eag]ly1 l a flock ( %eep1 !y all pu%$ =w>d to :]e a ri*ly-rob$ prie/ held a cross ( gold = ea* to kiss1 tak+ _! pr(f]$ kopeks4 ,! sett+ sun /ream$ ?r\gh ! anci5t /a9$ glass1 dye+ _! dirty %eepsk9 crimson1 & purple1 & gre51 until !y look$ l illum9ations 9 old missals4 ,to ! eye & ! m9d ( we/]n ,europe x 0 all incompreh5sible4 ,yet ^? 7 ! p ( ,russia :o are to-day h] mass ( arm$ def5d]s2 ! elem5t t has be5 c\nt$ on f ! fir/ by ,russia & h] allies /ood p5niless be=e an alt> laid ov] ) gold & silv] & preci\s /ones4 ,j be=e we got to ,kiev1 "o ( ^? m5 9 %eepsk9s ) uncut hair & dogg$ expression1 :o _h a s5se ( values 9 human exi/5ce1 broke into ! *ur* & /ole jewel$ *alices f ! alt>4 ,!y 7 trac$ to a pawn%op 9 a di/ant city & br\ght back4 ,x 0 a common ?+ to see m5 halt 9 ! /reet & /& uncov]$1 :ile a pitiful fun]al cortege pass$4 ,a wooly1 half-/>v$1 (t5 lame horse1 0 h>ness$ ) rope to a simple f\r-:eel$ f>m wagon1 a long-hair$ peasant at 8 head1 wom5 & *ildr5 hold+ to ! sides ( ! c>t z !y /umbl$ along 9 grief1 & inside a r\gh wood5 c(f9 cov]$ ) a black pall1 on :i* 0 sewn ! ,greek cross1 9 :ite4 ,he>tless1 hopeless1 we>y & und]f$1 ^? peasants 7 tak+ _! dead to be bless$ = a price1 by ! prie/ 9 clo? ( gold1 )\t ^: bless+ !re c\ld be no burial4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiii ,,m>k ,,twa9',s ,,love ,,( ,,col\r ,,9 ,,all ,,co/um+ ,! public ?9ks ( ,m>k ,twa9 z be+ ! apo/le ( :ite dur+ ! la/ ye>s ( 8 life1 b ^? :o knew him well recall 8 delightfully orig9al way ( express+ an int5se love = bright col\rs4 ,?is br+s to m9d a week-end at ,m>k ,twa9's beautiful ,italian villa 9 ,read+1 ,connecticut1 :51 "o night dur+ d9n]1 he held =? on ! compell+ fasc9ation ( col\rs & ! ,am]ican ,indian's sup]ior judgm5t 9 we>+ !m4 ,aft] a l5g?y elaboration--n to say exagg]ation--( 8 !me1 he end$ by decl>+ 9 uncompromis+ t]ms1 t col\r1 & pl5ty ( x1 crimson & yell[ & blue1 wrapp$ ar\nd man1 z well z woman1 0 an obligation %irk$ by humanity4 ,x 0 all put z only ,m>k ,twa9 c\ld h put x1 ) t s]i\s ve9 %[+ ?r\gh broad hum\r4 ,?is quality comb9$ ) an unmat*$ orig9ality1 made e mom5t pass$ 9 8 company a memory to treasure4 ,x 0 n alone 8 !me1 b h[ he dealt ) x1 t fasc9at$ "o4 ,,plate ,,xxix ,"o ( ! #aiag silh\ettes4 ,naturally1 s9ce woman to-day dresses = h] occupation--"w or play--! *>act]i/ic silh\ettes are _m4 ,?is "o is reproduc$ to illu/rate our po9t t outl9e c be affect$ by ! smalle/ detail4 ,! sket* is by ,elisabe? ,se>cy4 ,illu/ration3 ,drawn f ,life by ,elisabe? ,se>cy ,a ,mod]n ,silh\ette--#aiag ,tailor-made ,m>k ,twa9 0 elem5tal & at ! same "t a great arti/1--! embodim5t ( extreme contradictions1 & 8 flair = gay col\r 0 "o pro( ( 8 elem5tal /ra94 ,we laugh$ t night z he made ^w pictures ( h[ m5 & wom5 %\ld dress4 ,next morn+1 t[>d noon1 on look+ out ( a w9d[1 we saw /&+ 9 ! middle ( ! driveway a figure wrapp$ 9 crimson silk1 8 :ite hair fly+ 9 ! w9d1 :ile smoke f a pipe encircl$ 8 head4 ,yes1 x 0 ,m>k ,twa91 :o 9 ! mid/ ( 8 writ+1 _h be5 sudd5ly /ruck ) ! ?\ght t ! road ne$$ m5d+1 & _h gone out to h ano!r look at x6 ,x 0 a blu/]+ day 9 ,spr+1 & cold1 s "o ( ! h\sehold 0 s5t to p]suade him to come 94 ,we c see him n[1 return+ reluctantly1 w9d-bl[n & vehem5t1 ge/iculat+1 & /opp+ e few /eps to express 8 op9ion ( ! m5 :o _h made t road6 ,! flam+ r$ silk robe he wore 0 "o 8 daught] _h br\ght him f ,lib]ty's1 9 ,london1 & he ador$ x4 ,/ill wrapp$ 9 x1 & seem+ly unconsci\s ( 8 unusual appe>ance1 he jo9$ u on ! balcony1 to resume a conv]sation ( ! night be=e4 ,! r$-rob$ figure seat$ itself 9 a wick] *air & b]at$ ! idea t mortal man ev] c\ld be g5]\s1--act )\t selfi% motives4 ,) ! greate/ rev]5ce 9 8 tone1 sitt+ !re 9 8 :imsical co/ume ( bright r$ silk1 at high noon1--an immaculate ,fr5* butl] wait+ at ! door to ann\nce lun*1 ,m>k ,twa9 conclud$ an analysis ( mod]n religion ) --:y ! ,god ,i believe 9 is too busy sp9n+ sph]es to h "t to li/5 to human pray]s4 ,h[ (t5 8 words h be5 9 our m9d s9ce w> has %ak5 our planet4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiv ,,! ,,arti/ ,,& ,,8 ,,co/ume ,! _w has ! habit ( d]id+ t :i* x does n und]/&4 ,x is ! mo/ primitive way ( bol/]+ "o's limitations4 ,h[ (t5 ! woman or man ) a ,god-giv5 s5se ( ! beautiful1 ! fitt+1 h>mony betwe5 co/ume & sett+1 is describ$ z poseur or poseuse by ^? :o lack ! same in/9ct4 ,9 a s5se1 ( c\rse1 ev]y?+ man does1 beyond obey+ ! rudim5t>y in/9cts ( ! savage1 is an affectation1 & x is n possible to claim t ev5 our contempor>y co/um+ ( man or woman always has raison d'etre4 ,we accept z ! natural1 unaffect$ raim5t = woman & man t :i* cu/om has taught u to recognise z appropriate1 ) or )\t reason = be+4 ,= example1 ! tall1 %9y1 inflexible silk hat ( man1 & ! tortu\s high ,fr5* heels ( woman are 9 !mselves nei!r beautiful1 fitt+1 nor made to meet ! special dem&s ( any sett+ or circum/ance4 ,bo? hat & heels are fa%ions1 unbeautiful & uncom=table1 b to ! eye ( man to-day s]ve z insignia ( =mal dress1 decre$ by society4 ,! arti/ nature has always assum$ poetic lic5se 9 ! matt] ( dress1 & z a rule defi$ cu/om1 to foll[ an inborn feel+ = beauty4 ,t mu*-malign$ %ort velvet coat & s(t loose tie ( ! pa9t] or writ]1 happ5 to h a mo/ decid$ raison d'etre2 !y repres5t com=t1 conv5i5ce1 & 9 ! case ( ! velvet coat1 satisfy a s5sitiv5ess to texture1 incompreh5sible to o!r natures4 ,z = ! long hair ( "s arti/s1 x c be a pose1 b x has 9 _m cases be5 absorption 9 "w1 or pov]ty--! actual lack ( money = ! conv5tional haircut4 ,9 cities we consid] long hair on a man z effem9ate1 an indication ( physical weakness1 b ! ,russian peasant1 mo/ /urdy ( individuals1 we>s 8 hair long1 & s d _m o!rs among extremely primitive mascul9e types1 :o live _! lives beyond ! rea* ( ,fa%ion & b>b]s4 ,! %ort hair ( ! s9c]e woman arti/ is to save "t at ! toilette4 ,!re is always a limit$ numb] ( m5 & wom5 :o1 9 ord9>y acts ( life1 respond to texture1 col\r or l9e1 z o!rs d to music or sc5]y1 & to be at _! be/ 9 life1 mu/ dress _! p>ts z !y feel !m4 ,japanese actors :o play ! p>ts ( wom51 dress l wom5 (f ! /age1 & live ! lives ( wom5 z ne>ly z possible1 9 ord] to acquire ! feel+ = wom5's g>m5ts2 !y tra9 _! bodies to ! prop] fem99e c>riage1 c\nt+ ^u ?is to p]fect _! int]pretations4 ,! woman :o rides1 hunts1 %oots1 fi%es1 sails h] own boat1 paddles1 golfs & plays t5nis1 is v apt to look m at home 9 habit1 twe$s & flannels1 ?an %e does 9 /rictly fem99e attire2 ! muscles %e has acquir$ 9 legs & arms1 f viol5t ex]cise1 give an actual1 n an assum$1 /ride & a sw+ to ! upp] body4 ,9 sports clo!s1 or sev]ely tailor$ co/ume1 ?is woman is at h] be/4 ,mo/ try+ = h] w be demi-toilette 7h\se g[ns74 ,%e is beautiful at night because a c]ta9 balance1 dignity & grace are l5t h] by ! decolletage & tra9 ( a d9n] or ball g[n4 ,engli% wom5 :o are devotees ( sport1 demon/rate ! above fact ov] & ov] aga94 ,:ile on ! subject ( responsiv5ess to texture & col\r we w\ld rem9d ! read] t ,ri*>d ,wagn] hung ! room 9 :i* he work$ at 8 op]as ) bright silks1 = ! art /imulus he got f col\r1 & x is a well-kn[n fact t he d]iv$ great pleasure f we>+ dress+ g[ns & o!r g>m5ts made f ri* mat]ials4 ,clyde ,fit*1 our ,am]ican playwright1 :5 9 8 home1 (t5 wore velvet or brocad$ silks4 ,!y 7 m sympa!tic to 8 arti/ nature1 m 9 accord ) 8 fondness = we>+ jewell$ /uds1 buttons1 sc>f-p9s4 ,9 8 t[n & c\ntry h\ses ! ma9 s*eme1 lead+ features & e smalle/ detail 7 ! result ( ,clyde ,fit*'s p]sonal ta/e & ef=t1 & he1 m ?an mo/ m5 & wom51 appreciat$ :at a blot an in>ti/ic human be+ c be on a room :i* ( itself is a "w ( art4 ,,plate ,,xxx ,s\v5irs ( an arti/ design]'s unique e/abli%m5t1 9 _s & accompli%m5t vrai ,p>isi5ne4 ,notice ! long cape 9 ! /yle ( #ahbe4 ,tappe himself w tell y t all p]iods h _h _! beautiful l9es & col\rs2 _! int]e/+ details2 t to f9d beauty "o mu/ fir/ h ! feel+ = x2 t if "o is n born ) ?is subtle in/9ct1 !re are manifold opportunities = cultivat+ x4 ,8 claim is ! same z t made 9 our ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration2 ! connoisseur is "o :o has pass$ ?r\gh ! s*ool+ to be acquir$ only by contact ) ma/]pieces1--^? treasures sift$ by "t & pres]v$ = our education1 9 great art collections4 ,tappe emphasises ! necessity ( kn[+ ! backgr\nd = a co/ume be=e plann+ x2 ! value ( l9e 9 ! physique b5ea? ! mat]ials2 ! int]e/ to be wov5 into a woman's co/ume :5 h] type is recognis$1 & ! mod]n insi/5ce on appropriat5ess--t is1 ! simple g[n & close hat = ! c>1 vivid col\rs = field sports or bea*2 a l>ge fan = ! woman :o is mi/ress ( sweep+ l9es1 etc41 etc4 ,tappe is absolutely ,fr5* 9 8 insi/5ce ^u ! possible eloqu5ce ( l9e2 a s+le fl[] well pois$ & ! *ic :i* is dep5d5t ^u h[ a hat or g[n is put on4 ,we h he>d him say3 ,no1 ,i w n claim ! hat 9 t photograph1 ?\gh ,i made x1 because x is mal pose4 ,illu/ration3 ,sket*$ = ,woman z ,decoration by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,tappe's ,creations ,9 ,engl&1 & f> m s 9 ,am]ica1 m5 are put d[n z effem9ate :o we> jewelry to any m>k$ ext5t4 ,b no less a p]son ?an ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii always wore a *a9 bangle on 8 arm1 & "o might cite c\ntless m5 ( ! ,cont95t z ?or\ghly mascul9e--,spani>ds 9 p>ticul>--:o we> z _m jewell$ r+s z wom54 ,apropos ( ?is1 a fam\s topaz1 worn z a r+ = ye>s by a di/+ui%$ ,spani>d 0 rec5tly inh]it$ by a relation 9 ,am]ica--a woman4 ,! /one 0 ( su* importance z a gem1 t a record 0 kept ( its pass+ f ,france into ,am]ica4 ,z a man's r+ x 0 impressive & ! sett+ su* z to d x hon\r1 b be+ a man's r+1 x 0 too heavy = a woman's use4 ,a p5dant 0 made ( ! /one & a sett+ giv5 x :i* turn$ out to be too trifl+ 9 "*4 ,! consequ5ce 01 ! /one lo/ 9 value z a ,rub5s' canvas w\ld1 if plac$ 9 an art n\veau frame4 ,:e!r x is a preci\s /one1 a valu$ pa9t+ or a woman's co/ume--! effect produc$ dep5ds ^u ! "* ( its sett+4 ,,*apt] ,,xxv ,,idiosyncrasies ,,9 ,,co/ume ,fa%ions 9 dress z 9 mann]s1 religion1 art1 lit]ature & drama1 are all p[]ful because !y seize ^u ! public m9d4 ,! ,*elsea gr\p ( revolution>y arti/s 9 ,new ,york d\btless see1--p]haps b dimly1 ! same /> t l$ ,goe! & ,s*ill] on1 9 ! /orm & /ress p]iod ( _! "t4 ,we smile n[ z we recall h[ ,s*ill] /ood on ! /reet corn]s ( ,leipzig1 we>+ a dress+-g[n by day to defy cu/om2 b ! y\? ( ,a!ns did ! same 9 ! la/ days ( ,greece4 ,9 fact !n ! d>l+s ( ! gild$ _w /ruck attitudes ( ab&on 9 ord] to look l ! ,sp>tans4 ,!y refus$ to cut _! hair & !y w\ld n wa% _! h&s1 & ev5 boa/$ ( _! ragg$ clo!s aft] fi/ fights 9 ! /reets4 ,yes1 ! g5tlem5 did ?is4 ,9 ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies !re 0 a cult t wore furs 9 ,summ] & ?9 clo!s 9 ,w9t]1 to prove t love made !m /rong en\gh to resi/ ! elem5ts6 ,y w recall ! ,euphui/s ( ,engl&1 ! ,precieuses ( ,france & ! ,illum9ati ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 z well z ,les ,m]veilleux & ,les ,encroyables4 ,! ri* dur+ ! ,r5aissance 7 great & wise collectors b "s foll[$ ! fa%ion = collect+ manuscripts ev5 :5 unable to read !m4 ,x is int]e/+ to f9d t 9 ! f\r? & fif? c5turies x 0 fa%ionable to be lit]>y4 ,^? ) means = exi/5ce )\t lab\r1 wrote = _! own edification1 copy+ ! /yle ( ! anci5t poets & philosoph]s4 ,z e>ly z ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies ,v5etian wom5 7 %[n ! ,p>is fa%ions ea* ,asc5sion ,day on life-size dolls1 display$ by an ent]pris+ import]4 ,x is true t fa%ions come & g1 n only 9 dress1 b h[ "o %\ld sit1 /&1 & walk2 h[ use ! h&s & feet & eyes4 ,to squ9t 0 once deem$ a mode/ act4 ,wom5 ( ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies /ood ) _! abdom5s out1 & s did "s 9 #aiaf6 ,!re are also fa%ions 9 s++ & speak+4 ,! poses 9 portraits express mu*4 ,comp>e ! exactly prim ,copley miss1 ) a rec5t portrait by ,cecilia ,beaux ( a "y girl seat$1 ) da9ty sat9-cov]$ feet out/ret*$ to full ext5t ( ! limbs1 9 casual imp]t95ce1--our age6 ,to return to ! sixte5? c5tury1 x is wor?y ( note t "s ,v5etian belles wore pat9es--t is1 %oes ) blocks ( wood1 sometimes two feet high1 fa/5$ to ! soles4 ,!y c\ld n move )\t a maid ea* side6 ,z x 0 an age :5 elem5tal passions 7 good =m1 jeal\s husb&s are blam$ = ^!6 ,9 ! sev5te5? c5tury ! idle danc+ y\? ( to-day _h 8 prototype 9 ! ,cavali] ,s]v5te1 :o hov]$ at 8 lady's side1 affect+ extravagant & effem9ate mann]s4 ,! corrupt morals ( ! sixte5? c5tury foll[$ 9 ! wake ( social int]c\rse by travel1 lit]ature1 art & /yles = co/umes4 ,mme4 ,recami]1 ! exquisite embodim5t ( ! ,directoire /yle z depict$ by ,david 9 8 fam\s portrait ( h]1 sc&alis$ ,london by appe>+ 9 public1 clad 9 transp>5t ,greek drap]ies & sc>fs4 ,lat] ,mme4 ,j]ome ,bonap>te1 a ,baltimore belle1 q upset ,philadelphia by repeat+ ,mme4 ,recami]'s exp]im5t 9 t city ( bro!rly love6 ,we are also told on good au?ority t "o c\ld h held ,madame's w$d+ g[n 9 ! palm ( ! h&4 ,victorian hoops = public conveyances1 pap]-sol$ slipp]s 9 sn[-drifts1 wigs imm5se & heavy ) p[d]1 hair-oil & furbel[s1 h\r-glass wai/ l9es produc+ ! vap\rs =tunately are no m4 ,tak5 by & l>ge1 we ( ! ye> #aiag seem to h rea*$ ! po9t :]e woman's psy*ology dem&s ( dress fitness = ea* occasion1 t %e may give h]self to h] task )\t a mat]ial h&icap4 ,may ! good "w 9 ?is direction cont9ue1 z ! panorama ( co/umes = wom5 moves on d[n ! ages t are to come4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvi ,,nationality ,,9 ,,co/ume ,:5 se5 9 p]spective1 ! co/umes ( v>i\s p]iods1 z well z ! ar*itecture1 int]ior decoration & furni%+s ( ! homes ( m5 appe> z di/9ct types1 ?\gh to ! man or woman ( any p>ticul> p]iod ! v>iations ( ! type are bewild]+ & mislead+4 ,x is ! same 9 physical types2 :5 visit+ = ! fir/ "t a =eign l& "o is imm$iately /ruck by a national ca/ ( feature1 ,engli%1 ,fr5*1 ,am]ican1 ,russian1 etc4 ,b if we rema9 9 ! c\ntry = any l5g? ( "t1 ! diff]5ces betwe5 individuals impress u & we lose track ( ^? features & *>act]i/ics ! nation possesses 9 common4 ,to-day1 if ask$ :at outl9e1 mat]ials & col\r s*emes *>act]ise our fa%ions1 "s w\ld say t almo/ any?+ 9 ! way ( l9e1 mat]ials & col\r 7 worn4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 always an epo* type1 & :ile m ?an ev] be=e ! law ( appropriat5ess has dictat$ a c]ta9 silh\ette = ea* occasion1--ea* occupation1--:5 record$ 9 co/ume books ( ! future we w be recognis$ z a di/9ct phase2 z di/9ct z ! ,go?ic1 ,elizabe?an1 ,empire or ,victorian p]iod4 ,,plate ,,xxxi ,co/ume ( a ,r$ ,cross ,nurse1 worn :ile work+ 9 a ,fr5* w> hospital1 by ,miss ,elsie de ,wolfe1 ( ,new ,york4 ,an example ( woman co/um$ s z to be mo/ effici5t = ! "w 9 h&4 ,miss de ,wolfe's "n has become synonym\s ) int]ior decoration1 ?r\gh\t ! l5g? & bread? ( our l&1 b %e e/abli%$ a reputation z "o ( ! be/-dress$ wom5 9 ,am]ica1 long be=e %e left ! /age to pr(essionally decorate homes4 ,%e has done an immeasurable am\nt t[>d m\ld+ ! good ta/e ( ,am]ica 9 sev]al fields4 ,at pres5t h] en]gies are 9 "p devot$ to dissem9at+ in=mation conc]n+ a cure = burns1 "o ( ! _m discov]ies result+ f ! exig5cies ( ! pres5t deva/at+ w>4 ,illu/ration3 ,miss ,elsie de ,wolfe 9 ,co/ume ( ,r$ ,cross ,nurse ,z we h said1 9 /udy+ ! hi/ory ( woman decorative1 "o f9ds two widely sep>at$ aspects ( ! subject1 :i* mu/ be consid]$ 9 turn4 ,!re is ! classify+ ( woman's app>el :i* comes "u ! head ( ,european dress1 woman's co/ume affect$ by cosmopolitan influ5ces2 co/umes worn by t "p ( humanity :i* is 9 close int]communication & reflect+ ! ebb & fl[ ( curr5ts--political1 geographical & arti/ic4 ,!n we h q ano!r field = /udy1 t ( national co/umes1 by :i* we mean co/umes peculi> to "s "o nation & worn by its m5 & wom5 c5tury aft] c5tury4 ,x is int]e/+ z well z depress+ = ! /ud5t ( national *>act]i/ics to see ! picturesque di/+ui%+ l9es & col\rs gradually disappe> z railroads1 /eamboats & electric trolleys p5etrate remote di/ricts4 ,) any influx ( curi\s /rang]s !re comes 9 "t1 (t5 all too quickly1 a regrettable self-consci\sness1 :i* is foll[$ at fir/ by an awkw>d imitation ( ! cosmopolitan g>b4 ,we recall our exp]i5ce 9 ,hung>y4 ,hav+ be5 advis$ to visit ! peasant villages & f>ms ly+ out on ! pue/as 7pla9s ( s\!rn ,hung>y7 if we w\ld see ! v]itable national co/umes1 we set out hopefully ) lett]s ( introduction f a m9i/] ( education 9 ,buda ,pe/1 direct$ to mayors ( ,magy> villages4 ,"o ( ^! plann$ a visit to a local celebrity1 a ,magy> f>m]1 v old1 v prosp]\s1 ri* 9 h]ds ( horses1 %eep & magnific5t ,hung>ian ox51 l>ge1 :ite & ) almo/ /raight1 spread+ horns1 l ! ox5 ( ! anci5t ,greeks4 ,!re we met a man ( ! old s*ool1 ne>ly eighty1 :o _h nev] 9 8 life slept "u cov]1 8 duty be+ to gu>d 8 flocks & h]ds by night z well z day1 ?\gh he _h amass$ :at 0 = 8 /ation 9 life1 a great =tune4 ,he _h nev] be5 se5 9 any?+ b ! national co/ume1 ! same z worn 9 8 "p ( ! _w = sev]al hundr$ ye>s4 ,& s we w5t to see him 9 8 home4 ,we 7 all expectation6 ,y c imag9e our disappo9tm5t1 :51 ^u arrival1 we f\nd our ho/ await+ u1 pa9fully attir$ 9 ! ord9>y d>k clo? coat & tr\s]s ( ! mod]n f>m] ! _w ov]4 ,he _h donn$ ! ugly ?+s 9 our hon\r1 tak+ an h\r to make 8 toilet1 z we 7 secretly in=m$ by "o ( ! h\sehold4 ,we tell ?is to %[ h[ "o mu/ p]sev]e 9 ! pursuit ( arti/ic data4 ,?is 0 ! same occasion cit$ 9 ,! ,art ( ,int]ior ,decoration1 :5 ! highly decorative peasant tablew>e 0 bani%$ by ! wom5 9 ! h\se1 to make room1 aga9 9 our hon\r1 = pla9 :ite iron/one *9a4 ,! feel+ = l9e accr$it$ to ! ,fr5* woman is equally ! bir?right ( ! ,magy>--woman & man4 ,"o sees x 9 ! da% ( ! c\rt beauty :o c c>ry (f a mass ( jewels1 b>b>ic 9 spl5d\r1 :]e ! av]age ,european or ,am]ican w\ld feel a ,*ri/mas tree 9 ! same4 ,& no man 9 ,europe we>s 8 uni=m z ! ,hung>ian (fic] ( huss>s does2 ! a/ra*an-trimm$ %ort coat1 slung ov] "o %\ld]1 cap trimm$ ) fur1 on ! side ( 8 head1 & sk9-tight tr\s]s inside ( faultless1 spurr$ boots rea*+ to ! knees4 ,"o c g s f> z to say !re is some?+ decorative 9 ! v temp]am5t ( ,hung>ian wom51 a fi]y ab&on1 :i* makes l9e 9 a subtle way q ap>t f ! l9e ( co/ume4 ,?is quality is also possess$ by ! ,spani% woman1 & develop$ to a rem>kable degree 9 ! pr(essional ,spani% danc]4 ,! ,gipsy woman has x too1--%e br\ght x ) h] f ,asia1 z ! ,magy>'s =ebe>s did4 ,speak+ ( ! ,magy>1 no?+ s p]fectly expresses ! national temp]am5t z ! cz>das--t peasant dance :i* beg9s ) calm1 /ately repression1 & ends 9 a mad ec/asy ( expression1 ! rapid cresc5do1 ! :irl1 end+ :5 ! man seizes 8 p>tn] & fl+s h] high 9 ! air4 ,wat* ! fla% ( ! eyes & see t ?is is g5u9e temp]am5t1 n act+1 b some?+ inh]5t 9 ! blood4 ,! crude col\r ( ! national co/ume & ! %>p contra/ 9 ! folk music are equally expressions ( national "*1 ! v>i\s art expressions ( :i* op5 up c\ntless entic+ vi/as4 ,! contemplation ( "s ( ^! vi/as leads "o to ! conclusion t woman decorative is s1 ei!r z an arti/ 7t is1 9 ! ma/]y ( ! sci5ce ( l9e & col\r1 m or less "u ! control ( pass+ fa%ion71 or 9 ! ab&onm5t to ! impulse ( an untutor$1 unconsci\s1 *ild ( nature4 ,bo? c be beautiful2 ! art :i* is s great z to conceal consci\s ef=t by creat+ ! illusion ( spontaneity1 & ! natural unconsci\s grace ( ! human be+ 9 y\? or 9 ! primitive /ate4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvii ,,models ,an hi/orical int]e/ atta*es to fa%ions 9 wom5's co/um+1 :i* ! practis$ eye is quick to di/+ui%1 b n always t ( ! novice4 ,( c\rse ! mo/ casual & indiff]5t ( mortals recognises ! fact :5 woman's hat foll[s ! l9es ( ! ,fr5* (fic]'s cap1 or h] coat reproduces ! ,cossack's1 ) ev5 a fe9t at 8 c>tridge belt2 b su* e*oes ( ! w> are too obvi\s to call = comm5t4 ,,plate ,,xxxii ,madame ,g]ald9e ,f>r> z ,c>m54 ,9 ea* ( ! ?ree pres5tations ( ,madame ,f>r> we h giv5 h] 9 "*1 z sugge/ions = /age co/umes or co/ume balls4 7,by c\rtesy ( ,vanity ,fair47 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,vanity ,fair ,mme4 ,g]ald9e ,f>r> 9 ,spani% ,co/ume z ,c>m9e ,x is "o ( ! missions ( art to make subtle ! obvi\s1 & a di/+ui%$ example ( ?is1 :i* w illu/rate our !me1--hi/ory mirror$ by dress1--0 se5 rec5tly4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s among ! great c\turi]es ( ,p>is1 :o has op5$ a ,new ,york bran* )9 two ye>s1 hav+ j arriv$ ) h] ,spr+ & ,summ] models1 0 %[+ !m to an appreciative woman1 a patron ( _m ye>s4 ,x is n an exagg]ation to say t 9 all t procession ( co/umes = cool days or hot1 ball-room1 salon1 b\doir or lawn1 n "o 0 banal1 n "o false 9 l9e or its col\r-s*eme4 ,:e!r ! /yle 0 ,classic ,greek1 ,m$iaeval or ,empire 7^! prevail71 "o felt ! result1 fir/ ( an arti/'s in/9ct1 !n a deep k ( ! pictorial records ( p]iods 9 dress1 & to cr[n all1 t conviction ( ! real arti/1 :i* gives bo? c\rage & discretion 9 m\ld+ textiles1--! output ( mod]n g5ius1 to ! pure/ classic l9es4 ,= example1 "o reads 9 e curr5t fa%ion %eet t beads are 9 vogue z g>niture = dresses4 ,s !y are1 b note h[ y\r ,fr5* woman treats !m4 ,:e!r !y are ( jet1 /eel1 pe>l or cry/al1 %e presses !m into s]vice z s mu* col\r1 mass+ !m s t "o is consci\s only ( a %imm]+1 cl++1 wrapp$-toga effect1 a la ,grecque1 b5ea? ! skirt & bodice ( :i* e l9e & curve ( ! woman's =m is se54 ,evid5tly "s1 at lea/1 are to be gleam+ ,tanagras4 ,ev5 a d>k-blue s]ge1 = ! motor1 %opp+ or tra91 _h f hips to ! bu/ p>allel l9es ( v small tube-l jet beads1 sewn s close toge!r t ! effect 0 t ( a %irt ( mail4 ,! use ( notes ( vivid col\r caught ! eye4 ,9 "o case1 on a black sat9 aft]noon g[n1 a t9y nosegay ( =get-me-n blue1 rose-p9k & jessam9e-:ite1 0 made to decorate ! "o l>ge pat*-pocket on ! skirt & a lapel ( ! sleeveless sat9 coat4 ,aga9 on a d9n]-dress ( black ,*antilly lace1 ov] :ite *iffon 7,empire l9es71 a v small1 deep p9ki%-r$ rose _h a :ite rose-bud b\nd close to x ) a bit ( blue ribbon4 ,?is 0 plac$ "u ! b]?a ( cobweb lace1 & demurely 9 ! middle ( ! %ort-wai/$ bodice4 ,aga9 a robe d'int]ior ( :ite sat9 *>meuse1 _h a sleeveless coat ( blue1 rea*+ to knees1 & a da%+ bias sa% ( p9ki%-r$1 twice r\nd ! wai/1 ) its long ends rea*+ to skirt hem & heavily weight$4 ,n at once1 b only gradually1 did x dawn ^u u t mo/ ( ! g[ns bore1 9 "s %ade or =m1 ! tricol\r ( ,france6 ,,*apt] ,,xxviii ,,woman ,,co/um$ ,,= ,,h] ,,w> ,,job ,e n[ & !n a sex w> is pr$ict$1 & sometimes />t$1 usually by woman1 ?\gh "s pr$ict$ t :5 ! pres5t ,european w> is ov] & ! m5 come home to _! civilian tasks1 n[ be+ c>ri$ on by wom51 man is go+ to take ! initiative1 9 ! sex conflict4 ,we d\bt x4 ,)\t delib]ate design to prove ?is po9t1--t a complete collaboration ( ! sexes has always made ! :eels ( ! univ]se revolve1 _m ( ! illu/rations /udi$ %[$ woman ) man z decoration1 9 ,anci5t ,egypt1 ,greece1 & dur+ lat] p]iods4 ,! ,leg5d ( ,life tells u t man c n live alone1 h5ce woman2 & ! ,pageant ( ,life %[s t %e has play$ opposite ) consi/5cy & success ?r\gh\t ! ages4 ,! ,sunday issue ( ! ,philadelphia ,public ,l$g] = ,m>* #be1 #aiag1 has a headl9e1 ,tr\s]s vs4 ,skirts1 &1 cont9ues ,m>g>et ,davies1 ! au?or ( ! article3 ,?is w> w *ange all ?+s = ,european wom54 ,milit>y s]vice1 ( a sort1 has come = !m 9 bo? ,france & ,engl&1 :]e !y are replac+ m5 employ$ 9 cl]ical & o!r non-combatant dep>tm5ts1 includ+ motor driv+4 ,! mom5t ?is 0 decid$ ^u 9 ,engl&1 x 0 f\nd t #cj1jjj m5 w\ld be releas$ = actual fight+1 ) prospects ( ! release ( m ?an #bjj1jjj m4 ,:at ! ,fr5* dem& w be is n kn[n z ,i write1 b x w equal t ( ,engl&4 ,h[ w ^! wom5 dress8 ,w !y be giv5 milit>y uni=ms %ort ( skirt or ev5 skirtless8 ,( c\rse !y won't2 b ! _w on ?is side ( ! ocean w\ld n gasp %\ld ?is be done4 ,w> indu/ry already has work$ a revolution4 ,/udy ! pictures :i* accompany ?is article4 ,!y are a new k9d ( wom5's 'fa%ion pictures'2 !y are photographs ( wom5 dress$ z ,european circum/ances n[ compel !m to dress4 ,note ! tr\s]s1 l a ,turki% woman's1 ( ! ,fr5* girl munitions work]s4 ,?\s&s ( girls "h 9 ,france are work+ 9 su* tr\s]s4 ,note ! sm>t liv]ies ( ! girls :o h tak5 ! places ( male c>riage />t]s1 me*anics & elevator op]ators1 at a great ,london %op4 ,!y are v natty1 ar5't !y8 ,almo/ l co/umes f a comic op]a4 ,well1 !y are n op]atic co/umes4 ,!y are e-day work+ liv]ies4 ,girls we> !m 9 ! mo/ mix$ ,london cr[ds--we> !m because ! man-%ortage makes x necess>y = ^! girls to d "w :i* skirts d n fit4 ,all ,fr5* trams & buses h 'conductresses4' ,! com+ ( wom5 cabm5 9 ,london is inevitable--inde$1 x already has begun4 ,9 ,p>is !y h be5 e/abli%$ sp>sely = "s "t & h done well1 b !y h n be5 us$ on taxis1 only on ! horse cabs4 ,i h sp5t mo/ ( my "t 9 ,p>is = "s mon?s n[1 & h ridd5 beh9d wom5 driv]s frequ5tly4 ,!y drive c>efully & well & are mu* k9d] to _! horses ?an ! old1 r$-fac$1 brutal ,fr5* co*]s are4 ,i l !m4 ,!y h a wond]ful comm& ( language1 n always entirely or ev5 p>tially polite1 b !y are accommodat+ & less gre$y = tips ?an male driv]s4 ,at ,selfridge's great /ore--! l>ge/ & mo/ progressive 9 ,london1 op]at$ on ,*icago l9es--skirtless maid5s are n r>e en\gh to attract undue att5tion4 ,! fir/ to be se5 !re1 inde$1 is n 9 ! /ore at all1 b on ! sidewalk1 outside ( x1 engag$ 9 ! g5tle art ( direct+ cu/om]s to & f _! c>s & cabs & incid5tally keep+ ! *auffeurs 9 ord]4 ,an extremely pretty girl %e is1 too1 ) h] frock-coat com+ to h] knees1 h] top-boots com+ to ! coat1 & n[ & !n1 :5 ! w9d bl[s1 a glimpse ( loose knick]s4 ,%e tells me t %e's nev] _h a man />e at h] s9ce %e appe>$ 9 ! new liv]y1 al?\gh wom5 h be5 curi\s ab\t x & ev5 critical ( x4 ,wom5 h done all ! />+ to :i* %e has be5 subject$4 ,)9 ! /ore1 _m girls engag$ 9 v>i\s special employm5ts1 are dress$ conv5i5tly = _! "w1 9 p]fectly frank tr\s]s4 ,among ^! are ! girls :o op]ate ! elevators4 ,!re is no compromise ab\t x4 ,^! girls we> absolutely tr\s]s e work+ h\r ( e work+ day 9 a great public /ore1 9 a great cr[d$ city1 rubb+ elb[s 7ev5 t\*+ tr\s]$ knees1 inevitably7 ) hundr$s ( m5 daily4 ,,plate ,,xxxiii ,madame ,g]ald9e ,f>r>4 ,! value ( l9e 0 admirably illu/rat$ 9 ! op]a ,madame ,butt]fly z se5 ?is w9t] at ! ,metropolitan ,op]a ,h\se4 ,h y *anc$ to ask y\rself :y ! outl9e ( ! individual memb]s ( ! *orus 0 s lack+ 9 *>m1 & ,madame ,f>r>'s s delightful8 ,! great po9t is t 9 putt+ on h] kimono1 ,madame ,f>r> kept 9 m9d ! *>act]i/ic silh\ette ( ! ,japanese woman z %[n 9 ,japanese art2 !n %e made a picture ( h]self1 & "o 9 h>mony ) h] ,japanese sett+4 ,:i* br+s u back to ! keynote ( our book--,woman z ,decoration--beautiful ,l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,sket*$ = ,woman z ,decoration by ,!lma ,cudlipp ,mme4 ,g]ald9e ,f>r> 9 ,japanese ,co/ume z ,madame ,butt]fly ,& !y l x4 ,!y "w bett] 9 ! new uni=ms ?an !y us$ to 9 skirts & are less we>y at ea* day's end4 ,& nobody worries !m at all4 ,!re has n be5 ! fa9te/ suspicion ( an insult or an advance f any "o ( ! ?\s&s ( m5 & boys ( all classes :om !y h ridd5 ) ^u _! 'lifts1' sometimes 9 d5se cr[ds1 sometimes 9 an involunt>y tete-a-tete4 ,o!r employm5ts :i* girls foll[ & dress = bifurcat$ly 9 ?is great & progressive /ore are m a/oni%+ ?an ! op]ation ( elevators4 ,a *>m+ "y plumb] _h made no compromise :atev] ) tradition4 ,%e 0 9 ov]alls l boy plumb]s we>1 except t h] tr\s]s 7 n tight1 b !y 7 well fitt$4 ,a little cap ( ! same mat]ial z ! suit1 complet$ h] jaunty & attractive co/ume4 ,& cap & suit 7 pr(essionally /a9$1 too1 ) oil & ?+s l t1 :ile h] small h&s %[$ ! grime ( an hone/ day's compet5t1 h>d "w4 ,! com+ summ] w see an imm5se am\nt ( ,engl&'s f>m+ done by wom5 &1 ,i ?9k1 well done4 ,organisations already are "u way :]eby wom5 propose to help decrease ! food %ortage by intellig5t increase ( ! *ick5 & egg supply1 & ?is is be+ s well plann$ t und\bt$ly x w succe$4 ,eggs & *ick5s w be *eap 9 ,engl& ere ! summ] ends4 ,i h met ?ree ex-/5ograph]s :o n[ are at h>d "w1 two ( !m 9 munition factories 7mak+ milit>y eng9es ( dea?7 & "o ( !m on a f>m4 ,i ask$ !m h[ !y lik$ ! *ange4 ',i %\ld hate to h to g back to "w 9 ! old long skirts1' "o repli$4 ',i %\ld hate to g back to ! old days ( rely+ ^u "s "o else = ev]y?+ t really matt]s4 ,b--well1 ,i wi% ! w> w\ld end & ,i hope ! casualty li/s ( f9e "y m5 w n gr[ long]1 day by day1 z ,spr+ approa*es1 al?\gh ev]ybody says !y w4' ,mrs4 ,john ,bull takes girls 9 pantaloons q calmly & approv+ly1 n[ t %e has le>n$ t if !re are en\gh ( !m1 dad & ! boys w pay no m att5tion to !m 9 tr\s]s ?an !y w\ld pay to !m 9 skirts4 ,we h pref]r$ to quote ! exact word+ ( ! orig9al article1 = ! reason t :ile ! facts are famili> to mo/ ( u1 ! mann] ( putt+ !m c\ld n1 to our m9d1 be m graphic4 ,"s day1 :5 ! ,wateaus ( ! future are pa9t+ ! c\rt ladies :o aga9 dance pavanes 9 sunlit glades1 we>+ wigs & cr9ol9e1 su* data w amuse4 ,t ! wom5 ( ,f9l& make wor?y memb]s ( _! p>liam5t does n prove any?+ outside ( ,f9l&4 ,t ! exig5cies ( ! pres5t h\r 9 ,engl& h made wom5 equal to e task ( m5 s f> entru/$ to !m1 proves mu* = ,engl&4 ,wom51 l m51 h untold1 untri$ abilities )9 !m1 wom5 & m5 alike are m>vell\s "u fire--capable ( developm5t 9 e direction4 ,:at human nature has done x c d aga91 & inf9itely m "u ! pressure ( necessity :i* op5s up bra9 cells1 /eels ! he>t1 h>d5s ! muscles1 & l magic fire1 licks up ! dross ( humanity1 aimlessly float+ on ! surface ( life1 await+ a lead] to melt & m\ld x at ,fate's w into cle>ly def9$ p]sonalities1 ready to s]ve4 ,?is po9t has be5 magnific5tly prov$ by ! w> n[ wag+ 9 ,europe4 ,let u repeat2 t f ! beg9n+ ! /ory ( woman's co/um+ proves h] _m-sid$ness1 ! inexhau/ible /ock ( h] lat5t qualities :i*1 l man's1 await ! call ( ! h\r4 ,,9 ,,conclusion ,! =ego+ *apt]s h aim$ at %[+ ! decorative value ( woman's co/ume z se5 9 ! art ( ,egypt1 ,greece1 ,go?ic ,europe1 ,europe ( ! ,r5aissance & dur+ ! sev5te5?1 eighte5? & n9ete5? c5turies4 ,to prove ! po9t t woman is a tell+ note 9 ! int]ior decoration ( to-day1 ! vital sp>k 9 any sett+1 we h n dwelt ^u ! fa%ions s mu* z decorative l9e1 col\r-s*eme & fitness = ! occasion4 ,x is co/ume associat$ ) ca/e :i* int]e/s u m ?an folk co/ume4 ,we h %[n t x is ! mod]n insi/5ce on effici5cy t has l$ to appropriate dress = "w & recreation1 & t our idea ( ! *ic & ! beautiful 9 co/ume is bas$ on appropriat5ess4 ,also we h %[n t l9e 9 co/umes is 9 "p ! result ( "o's =m--! absolute control ( ! body1 its c>riage1 poise ( ! head1 action ( legs1 arms1 h&s & feet1 & t =m means successful ef=t 9 any direction1 because ?r\gh x ! m9d may control ! physical m$ium4 ,x is ! woman :o kn[s :at %e %\ld we>1 :at %e c we> & h[ to we> x1 :o is mo/ effici5t 9 :atev] %e gives h] m9d to4 ,%e x is :o w exp5d ! lea/ "t1 /r5g? & money on h] appe>ance1 & be ! fir/ to report = duty 9 connection ) ! next obligation 9 ! bus9ess ( life4 ,!re=e let u keep 9 m9d a few rules = ! p]fect co/um+ ( woman3 ,appropriat5ess = ea* occasion s z to get effici5cy1 or be z decorative z possible4 ,outl9e4--,fa%ion 9 silh\ette adapt$ to y\r own type4 ,backgr\nd4--,y\r sett+4 ,col\r s*eme4--,fa%ionable col\rs *os5 & comb9$ to express y\r p]sonality z well z to h>monise ) ! tone ( sett+1 or1 if pref]r$1 to be an agreeable contra/ to x4 ,detail4--,trimm+ ) raison d'etre1--n mean+less sup]fluities4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 und]/ood t ! atta9m5t ( beauty 9 ! co/um+ ( woman is our aim :5 /at+ & apply+ ! =ego+ pr9ciples4 ,! art ( int]ior decoration & ! art ( co/um+ woman are occasionally c5tr$ 9 ! same individual1 b n (t54 ,"s ( ! mo/ p]fectly dress$ wom51 models = _! less gift$ si/]s1 are n only ignorant z to ! art ( sett+ _! /age1 b oblivi\s ( ! fact t x may ne$ sett+4 ,rememb]1 t :ile an in>ti/ic room1 confus$ z to l9e & col\r-s*eme c absolutely de/roy ! effect ( a p]fect g[n1 an in>ti/ic1 ?\gh co/ly g[n c likewise be a blot on a p]fect room4