,,the ,,gourmet',s ,,guide ,,to ,,europe ,publisher's ,announcement ,,dinners ,,and ,,diners3 ,where and how to ,dine in ,london ,by ,lieut4-,col4 ,newnham-,davis ,new and ,revised ,edition ,small ,crown #hvo4 ,cloth4 #c_/f ,,where ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,dine ,,in ,,paris ,by ,rowland ,strong ,fcap4 #hvo4 ,cover designed cloth4 #b_/f 99 99 99 99 99 ,london3 ,,grant ,,richards ,the ,gourmet's ,guide ,to ,europe ,,by ,,lieut4-,,col4 ,,newnham-,,davis ,,and ,,algernon ,,bastard ,,edited ,,by ,,the ,,former ,illustration ,london ,,grant ,,richards #dh ,,leicester ,,square1 ,w4,c4 #aijc ,the pleasures of the table are common to all ages and ranks1 to all countries and times2 they not only harmonise with all the other pleasures1 but remain to console us for their loss4 ,brillat ,savarin4 ,,preface ,often enough1 staying in a hotel in a foreign town1 ,i have wished to sally forth and to dine or breakfast at the typical restaurant of the place1 should there be one4 ,almost invariably ,i have found great difficulty in obtaining any information regarding any such restaurant4 ,the proprietor of the caravanserai at which one is staying may admit vaguely that there are eating-houses in the town1 but asks why one should be anxious to seek for second-class establishments when the best restaurant in the country is to be found under his roof4 ,the hall-porter has even less scruples1 and stigmatises every feeding-place outside the hotel as a den of thieves1 where the stranger foolishly venturing is certain to be poisoned and then robbed4 ,this book is an attempt to help the man who finds himself in such a position4 ,his guide-book may possibly give him the names of the restaurants1 but it does no more4 ,my co-author and myself attempt to give him some details--what his surroundings will be1 what dishes are the specialities of the house1 what wine a wise man will order1 and what bill he is likely to be asked to pay4 ,our ambition was to deal fully with the capitals of all the countries of ,europe1 the great seaports1 the pleasure resorts1 and the show places4 ,the most acute critic will not be more fully aware how far we have fallen short of our ideal than we are1 and no critic can have any idea of the difficulty of making such a book as we hope this will some day be when complete4 ,at all events we have always gone to the best authorities where we had not the knowledge ourselves4 ,our publisher1 ,mr4 ,grant ,richards1 quite entered into the idea that no advertisements of any kind from hotels or restaurants should be allowed within the covers of the book2 and though we have asked for information from all classes of gourmets--from ambassadors to the simple globe-trotter--we have not listened to any man interested directly or indirectly in any hotel or restaurant4 ,hotels as places to live in we have not considered critically1 and have only mentioned them when the restaurants attached to them are the dining-places patronised by the bon-vivants of the town4 ,over ,england we have not thrown our net1 for ,dinners and ,diners leaves me nothing new to write of ,london restaurants4 ,in conclusion ,i beg1 on behalf of my co-author and myself1 to return thanks to all the good fellows who have given us information2 and ,i would earnestly beg any travelling gourmet1 who finds any change in the restaurants we have mentioned1 or who comes on treasure-trove in the shape of some delightful dining-place we know nothing of1 to take pen and ink and write word of it to me1 his humble servant1 to the care of ,mr4 ,grant ,richards1 ,leicester ,square4 ,so shall he benefit1 in future editions1 all his own kind4 ,we hear much of the kindness of the poor to the poor4 ,this is an opportunity1 if not for the rich to be kind to the rich1 at least for those who deserve to be rich to benefit their fellows4 ,n4 ,newnham-,davis4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,paris ,,page ,the ,cuisine de ,paris--,a little ancient history--,restaurants with a past--,the restaurants of to-day--,over the river--,open-air restaurants--,supping-places--,miscellan eous #a ,,chapter ,,ii ,,french ,,provincial ,,towns ,the northern ports--,norman and ,breton towns--,the west coast and ,bordeaux--,marseilles and the ,riviera--,the ,pyrenees--,provence--,aix-les-,bains and other cure places #ce ,,chapter ,,iii ,,belgian ,,towns ,the food of the country--,antwerp--,spa--,bruges--,osten de #gi ,,chapter ,,iv ,,brussels ,the ,savoy--,the ,epaule de ,mouton--,the ,faille ,dechiree--,the ,lion d',or--,the ,regina--,the ,helder--,the ,filet de ,sole--,wiltcher's--,justine's--,the ,etoile--,the ,belveder--,the ,cafe ,riche--,duranton's--,the ,laiterie--,miscellaneous #ij ,,chapter ,v ,,holland ,restaurants at the ,hague--,amsterdam--,scheveningen-- ,rotterdam--,the food of the people #aje ,,chapter ,,vi ,,german ,,towns ,the cookery of the country--,rathskeller and beer-cellars--,dresden--,muenich--,nuere mburg--,hanover-- ,leipsic--,frankfurt--,duesseldorf--,the ,rhine valley--,cure places--,kiel--,hamburg #aaj ,,chapter ,,vii ,,berlin ,up-to-date restaurants--,supping-places--,military cafes--,night restaurants #add ,,chapter ,,viii ,,switzerland ,lucerne--,basle--,bern--,geneva--,davos ,platz #aea ,,chapter ,,ix ,,italy ,italian cookery and wines--,turin--,milan--,genoa-- ,venice--,bologna--,spezzia--,florence-- ,pisa--,leghorn-- ,rome--,naples--,palermo #aeg ,,chapter ,x ,,spain ,,and ,,portugal ,food and wines of the country--,barcelona--,san ,sebastian--,bilbao--,madrid--,seville-- ,bobadilla-- ,grenada--,jerez--,algeciras--,lisbon--, estoril #agh ,,chapter ,,xi ,,austria ,,and ,,hungary ,viennese restaurants and cafes--,baden--,carlsbad-- ,marienbad--,prague--,bad ,gastein--,budapesth #aif ,,chapter ,,xii ,,roumania ,the dishes of the country--,the restaurants of ,bucarest #bjg ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,sweden4 ,,norway4 ,,denmark ,stockholm restaurants--,malmoe--,storvik--,gothenb urg-- ,christiana--,copenhagen--,elsinore #baj ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,russia ,food of the country--,restaurants in ,moscow--,the dining-places of ,st4 ,petersburg--,odessa--,warsaw #bag ,,chapter ,,xv ,,turkey ,turkish dishes--,constantinople restaurants #bbf ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,greece ,grecian dishes--,athens #bcj ,,index #bcc ,,chapter ,i ,,paris ,the ,cuisine de ,paris--,a little ancient history--,restaurants with a past--,the restaurants of to-day--,over the river--,open-air restaurants--,supping-places--,miscellan eous4 ,paris is the culinary centre of the world4 ,all the great missionaries of good cookery have gone forth from it1 and its cuisine was1 is1 and ever will be the supreme expression of one of the greatest arts in the world4 ,most of the good cooks come from the south of ,france1 most of the good food comes from the north4 ,they meet at ,paris1 and thus the ,paris cuisine1 which is that of the nation and that of the civilised world1 is created4 ,when the ,channel has been crossed you are in the country of good soups1 of good fowl1 of good vegetables1 of good sweets1 of good wine4 ,the hors-d'oeuvre are a ,russian innovation2 but since the days when ,henry ,,iv4 vowed that every peasant should have a fowl in his pot1 soup from the simplest bouillon to the most lordly consommes and splendid bisques has been better made in ,france than anywhere else in the world4 ,every great cook of ,france has invented some particularly delicate variety of the boiled fillet of sole1 and ,duglere achieved a place amongst the immortals1 by his manipulation of the brill4 ,the soles of the north are as good as any that ever came out of ,british waters2 and ,paris--sending tentacles west to the waters where the sardines swim1 and south to the home of the lamprey1 and tapping a thousand streams for trout and the tiny gudgeon and crayfish--can show as noble a list of fishes as any city in the world4 ,the chef de cuisine who could not enumerate an hundred and fifty entrees all distinctively ,french1 would be no proficient in his noble profession4 ,the ,british beef stands against all the world as the meat noblest for the spit1 though the ,french ox which has worked its time in the fields gives the best material for the soup-pot2 and though the ,welsh lamb and the ,english sheep are the perfection of mutton young and mutton old1 the lamb nurtured on milk till the hour of its death1 and the sheep reared on the salt-marshes of the north1 make splendid contribution to the ,paris kitchens4 ,veal is practically an unknown meat in ,london2 and the calf which has been fed on milk and yolk of egg1 and which has flesh as soft as a kiss and as white as snow1 is only to be found in the ,parisian restaurants4 ,most of the good restaurants in ,london import all their winged creatures1 except game1 from ,france2 and the ,surrey fowl and the ,aylesbury duck1 the representatives of ,great ,britain1 make no great show against the champions of ,gaul1 though the ,norfolk turkey holds his own4 ,a vegetable dish1 served by itself and not flung into the gravy of a joint1 forms part of every ,french dinner1 large or small2 and in the battle of the kitchen gardens the foreigners beat us nearly all along the line1 though ,i think that ,english asparagus is better than the white monsters of ,argenteuil4 ,a truffled partridge1 or the homely ,perdrix au choux1 or the splendid ,faisan a la ,financiere show that there are many more ways of treating a game bird than plain roasting him2 and the peasants of the south of ,france had crushed the bones of their ducks for a century before we in ,london ever heard of ,canard a la ,presse4 ,the ,parisian eats a score of little birds we are too proud to mention in our cookery books1 and he knows the difference between a mauviette and an alouette4 ,perhaps the greatest abasement of the ,briton1 whose ancestors called the ,french ,froggies in scorn1 comes when his first morning in ,paris he orders for breakfast with joyful expectation a dish of the thighs of the little frogs from the vineyards4 ,an ,austrian pastry-cook has a lighter hand than a ,french one1 but the ,parisian open tarts and cakes and the friandises and the ice1 or coupe-jacque at the end of the ,gallic repast are excellent4 ,paris is strewn with the wrecks of restaurants1 and many of the establishments with great names of our grandfathers' and fathers' days are now only tavernes or cheap table-d'hote restaurants4 ,the ,grand ,vefour in the ,palais ,royal--where the patrons of the establishment in ,louis ,philippe's time used to eat off royal crockery1 bought from the surplus stock of the palaces by ,m4 ,hamel1 cook to the king1 and proprietor of the restaurant--has lost its vogue in the world of fashion4 ,the present ,cafe de ,paris has an excellent cook1 and is the supper restaurant where the most shimmering lights of the demi-monde may be seen2 but the old ,cafe de ,paris1 at the corner of the ,rue ,taitbout1 the house which ,m4 ,martin ,guepet brought to such fame1 and where the ,veau a la ,casserole drew the warmest praise from our grandfathers1 has vanished4 ,bignon's1 which was a name known throughout the world1 has fallen from its high estate2 the ,cafe ,riche1 though it retains a good restaurant1 is not the old famous dining-place any longer2 and the ,marivaux1 where ,joseph flourished1 has been transformed into a brasserie4 ,the ,cafe ,hardi1 at one time a very celebrated restaurant1 made place for the ,maison d',or1 and the gilded glory of the latter has now passed in its turn4 ,the ,cafe ,veron1 ,philippe's1 of the ,rue ,mont ,orgueil1 and the ,rocher de ,cancale in the ,rue ,mandar1 where ,borel1 one of the cooks of ,napoleon ,i41 made gastronomic history1 ,beauvilliers's1 the proprietor of which was a friend of all the field-marshals of ,europe1 and made and lost half-a-dozen fortunes1 the ,trois ,freres ,provenceaux1 the ,cafe ,very1 and ,d',hortesio's are but memories4 ,the saddest disappearance of all1 because the latest1 is the ,maison d',or1 which is to be converted1 so it is said1 into a brasserie4 ,the retirement of ,casimir1 one of the ,verdier family1 who was to the ,d',or what ,duglere was to the ,anglais1 precipitated the catastrophe1 and in the autumn of #aijb the house gave its farewell luncheon1 and closed with all the honours of war4 ,alas for the ,carpe a la ,gelee and the ,sole au vin ,rouge and the ,poularde ,maison d',or6 ,i shall never1 ,i fear1 eat their like again4 ,there was much history attached to the little golden house2 more1 perhaps1 than to any other restaurant in the world4 ,from its doors ,rigolboche1 in the costume of ,mother ,eve1 started for her run across the road to the ,anglais4 ,at the table by one of the windows looking out on to the boulevard ,nestor ,roqueplan1 ,fould1 ,salamanca1 and ,delahante used always to dine4 ,upstairs in ,le ,grand #f1 which was to the ,maison d',or what ,le ,grand #af is to the ,anglais1 ,salamanca1 who drew a vast revenue from a ,spanish banking-house1 used to give extraordinary suppers at which the lights of the demi-monde of that day1 ,cora ,pearl1 ,anna ,deslions1 ,deveria1 and others used to be present4 ,the amusement of the ,spaniard used to be to spill the wax from a candle over the dresses1 and then to pay royally for the damage4 ,one evening he asked one of the ,,mm4 ,verdier whether a very big bill would be presented to him if he burned the whole house down1 and on being told that it was only a matter of two or three million francs he would have set light to the curtains if ,m4 ,verdier had not interfered to prevent him4 ,the beau ,demidoff1 the duelling ,baron ,espeleta1 ,princes ,galitzin and ,murat1 ,tolstoy1 and the ,duc de ,rivoli gave their parties in the ,grand #f2 and down the narrow1 steep flight of steps which led into the side street the ,duke of ,hamilton fell and broke his neck4 ,the ,maison d',or was the meeting-place1 in the sixty odd years of its existence1 of many celebrities of literature4 ,dumas1 ,meilhac1 ,emmanuel ,arene used to dine there before they went across the road for a game of cards at the ,cercle des ,deux ,mondes1 and later ,oncle ,sarcey was one of the habitues of the house4 ,two restaurants in particular seem to me to head the list of the classic1 quiet establishments1 proud of having a long history1 satisfied with their usual clientele1 non-advertising1 content to rest on their laurels4 ,those two are the ,anglais and ,voisin's1 the former on the ,boulevard des ,italiens1 the latter in the ,rue ,st-,honore4 ,the ,cafe ,anglais1 the white-faced house at the corner of the ,rue ,marivaux1 is the senior of the two1 for it has a history of more than a hundred years4 ,it was originally a little wine-merchant's shop1 with its door leading into the ,rue ,marivaux1 and was owned by a ,m4 ,chevereuil4 ,the ownerships of ,,mm4 ,chellet and de ,l',homme marked successive steps in its upward career1 and when the restaurant came into the market in '#gi or '#hj it was bought by a syndicate of bankers and other rich business men who parted with it to its present proprietor4 ,the ,comte de ,grammont ,caderousse and his companions in what used to be known as the ,loge ,infernale at the old ,opera1 were the best-known patrons of the ,anglais2 and until the ,opera ,house1 replaced by the present building1 was burnt down1 the ,anglais was a great supping-place1 the little rabbit-hutches of the entresol being the scene of some of the wildest and most interesting parties given by the great men of the ,second ,empire4 ,the history of the ,anglais has never been written because1 as the proprietor will tell you1 it never could be written without telling tales anent great men which should not be put into print2 but if you ask to see the book of menus1 chiefly of dinners given in the ,grand ,seize1 the room on the first floor1 the curve of the windows of which look up the long line of the boulevards1 and if you are shown the treasure you will find in it records of dinners given by ,king ,edward when he was ,prince of ,wales1 by the ,duc de ,morny and by ,d',orsay1 by all the ,grand ,dukes who ever came out of ,russia1 by ,citron and ,le ,roi ,milan1 by the lights of the ,french jockey club1 and many other celebrities4 ,there is one especially interesting menu of a dinner at which ,bismarck was a guest--before the terrible year of course4 ,while ,i am gossiping as to the curiosities of the ,anglais ,i must not forget a little collection of glass and silver in a cabinet in the passage of the entresol4 ,every piece has a history1 and most of them have had royal owners4 ,the great sight of the restaurant1 however1 is its cellars4 ,electric light is used to light them1 luminous grapes hang from the arches1 and an orange tree at the end of a vista glows with transparent fruit4 ,in these cellars1 beside the wine on the wine-list of the restaurant1 are to be found some bottles of all the great vintage years of claret1 an object-lesson in ,bordeaux2 and there are little stores of brandies of wondrous age1 most of which were already in the cellars when the battle of ,waterloo was fought4 ,from a gourmet's point of view the great interest in the restaurant will lie1 if he wishes to give a large dinner1 in the ,grand ,seize or one of the other private rooms2 if he is going to dine alone1 or is going to take his wife out to dinner1 in the triangular room on the ground floor with its curtains of lace1 its white walls1 its mirrors and its little gilt tripod in the centre of the floor4 ,duglere was the chef who1 above all others1 made history at the ,anglais1 and the present proprietor1 ,m4 ,burdel1 was one of his pupils2 and therefore the cookery of ,duglere is the cookery still of the ,anglais4 ,potage ,germiny is claimed by the ,cafe ,anglais as a dish invented by the house1 but the ,maison d',or across the way also laid claim to it1 and told an anecdote of its creation--how it was invented by ,casimir for the ,marquis de ,st-,george4 ,the various fish a la ,duglere there can be no question concerning1 the ,barbue ,duglere being the most celebrated2 and the ,poularde ,albufera and the ,filet de ,sole ,mornay 7which was also claimed by the ,grand ,vefour7 are both specialities of the house4 ,you can order as expensive a dinner as you will for a great feast at the ,anglais1 and you can eat rich dishes if you desire it2 but there is no reason that you should not dine there very well1 and as cheaply as you can expect to get good material1 good cooking1 and good attendance anywhere in the world4 ,the dishes of the day are always excellent1 and ,i have dined off a plate of soup1 a pint of ,bordeaux1 and some slices of a gigot de sept heures--one of the greatest achievements of cookery--for a very few francs4 ,i always find that ,i can dine amply1 and on food that even a ,german doctor could not object to1 for less than a louis4 ,for instance1 a dinner at the ,anglais of half-a-dozen ,ostende ,oysters1 ,potage ,laitues et ,quenelles1 ,merlans ,frits1 ,cuisse de ,poularde de ,rotie1 ,salade ,romaine1 cheese1 half a bottle of ,graves #a;e ,cru1 and a bottle of ,st-,galmier costs #ah francs4 ,voisin's1 in the ,rue ,st-,honore1 the corner house whose windows1 curtained with lace1 promise dignified quiet1 is a restaurant which has a history1 and has1 and has had1 great names amongst its habitues4 ,many of these have been diplomats1 and ,voisin's knows that ambassadors do not care to have their doings1 when free from the cares of office1 gossiped about4 ,when ,i first saw ,voisin's1 it looked as unlike the house of to-day as can be imagined4 ,i was in ,paris immediately after the days of the ,commune and followed1 with an old ,general1 the line the troops had taken in the fight for the city4 ,in the ,rue ,st-,honore were some of the fiercest combats1 for the regulars fought their way from house to house down this street to turn the positions the ,communists took up in the ,champs ,elysees and the gardens of the ,tuileries4 ,the ,british ,embassy had become a hospital1 and all the houses which had not been burned looked as though they had stood a bombardment4 ,there were bullet splashes on all the walls1 and ,i remember that ,voisin's looked even more battered and hopeless than did most of its neighbours4 ,the diplomats have always had an affection for ,voisin's1 perhaps because of its nearness to the street of the ,embassies2 and in the eighties the attaches of the ,british ,embassy used to breakfast there every day4 ,nowadays1 the clientele seems to me to be a mixture of the best type of the ,english and ,americans passing through ,paris1 and the more elderly amongst the statesmen1 who were no doubt the dashing young blades of twenty-five years ago4 ,the two comfortable ladies who sit near the door at the desk1 and the little show-table of the finest fruit seem to me never to have changed1 and there is still the same quiet-footed1 unhurrying service which impressed me when first ,i made the acquaintance of the restaurant4 ,it is one of the dining-places where one feels that to dine well and unhurriedly is the first great business of life1 and that everything else must wait at the dinner-hour4 ,the proprietor1 grey-headed and distinguished-looking1 goes from table to table saying a word or two to the habitues1 and there is a sense of peace in the place--a reflection of the sunshine and calm of ,provence1 whence the founder of the restaurant came4 ,the great glory of ,voisin's is its cellar of red wines1 its ,burgundies and ,bordeaux4 ,the ,bordeaux are arranged in their proper precedence1 the wines from the great vineyards first1 and the rest in their correct order down to mere bourgeois tipple4 ,against each brand is the price of the vintage of all the years within a drinkable period1 and the man who knew the wine-list of ,voisin's thoroughly would be the greatest authority in the world on claret4 ,mr4 ,rowland ,strong1 in his book on ,paris1 tells how1 one ,christmas ,eve1 he took an ,englishman to dine at ,voisin's1 and how that ,englishman demanded plum-pudding4 ,the maitre-d'hotel was equal to the occasion4 ,he was polite but firm1 and his assertion that ,the ,house of ,voisin does not serve1 has never served1 and will never serve1 plum-pudding settled the matter4 ,if the ,anglais and ,voisin's may be said to have much of their interest in their past1 ,paillard's should be taken as a restaurant which is the type and parent of the present up-to-date restaurant4 ,the white restaurant on the ,boulevard des ,italiens has kept at the top of the tree for many years1 and has sent out more culinary missionaries to improve the taste of dining man than any other establishment in ,paris4 ,joseph1 who brought the ,marivaux to such a high pitch of fame before he emigrated to ,london1 came from ,paillard's and so did ,frederic of the ,tour d',argent1 of whom ,i shall have something to say later on4 ,henri of the ,gaillon1 ,notta1 ,charles of ,foyot's--all were trained at ,paillard's4 ,the restaurant has its history1 and its long list of great patrons4 ,le ,desir de ,roi1 which generally appears in the menu of any important dinner at ,paillard's1 and which has foie gras as its principal component1 has been eaten by a score of kings at one time or another1 our own gracious ,majesty heading the list4 ,the restaurant at first was contained in one small room4 ,then the shop of ,isabelle1 the ,jockey ,club flower-girl1 which was next door1 was acquired1 and lastly another little shop was taken in1 the entrance changed from the front to its present position at the side1 the accountant's desk put out of sight1 and the little musicians' gallery built--for ,paillard's has moved with the time and now has a band of ,tziganes1 much to the grief of men like myself who prefer conversation to music as the accompaniment of a meal4 ,the restaurant as it is with its white walls and bas-reliefs of cupids and flowers1 its green ,travertine panels let into the white pilasters1 its chandeliers of cut glass1 is very handsome4 ,m4 ,paillard1 hair parted in the middle and with a small moustache1 irreproachably attired1 wearing a grey frock-coat by day1 and a smoking and black tie in the evening1 is generally to be seen superintending all arrangements1 and there is a maitre-d'hotel who speaks excellent ,english1 and a head waiter with whiskers who deserted to ,henri1 but subsequently returned1 who is also an accomplished linguist4 ,amongst the specialities of the house are ,pomme ,otero and ,pomme ,georgette1 both created1 ,i fancy1 by ,joseph when he was at ,paillard's1 ,homard ,cardinal1 ,filet de ,sole a la ,russe1 ,sole ,paillard1 ,filet de ,sole ,kotchoubey1 ,timbale de queues d',ecrevisses ,mantua1 ,cote de ,boeuf braise ,empire1 ,pommes ,macaire1 ,filet ,paillard1 ,supreme de ,volaille ,grand ,duc1 ,rouennais ,paillard1 ,baron d'agneau ,henri ,,iv41 ,poularde ,archiduc1 ,poularde a la ,derby1 ,poularde ,wladimir1 ,filet de ,selle ,czarine1 ,becasse au ,fumet1 ,rouennais a la ,presse1 ,terrine de ,foie ,gras a la gelee au ,porto1 ,perdreau et ,caille ,paillard4 ,two menus of dinners ,m4 ,paillard has given me1 one a very noble feast1 to the length of which ,i am a conscientious objector but which ,i print1 presently1 in full1 and the other a banquet of lesser grandeur with ,creme ,germiny1 ,barbue ,paillard1 ,ortolans en surprise1 ,salade ,ideale1 and many other good things in it from which ,i select the following dishes as making a typical little ,paillard feast for two1 the price of which would not be a king's ransom3-- ,caviar frais4 ,consomme ,viveur4 ,filets de ,sole ,joinville4 ,coeurs de ,filet ,rachel4 ,pommes ,anna4 ,haricots ,verts a la ,touranquelle4 ,an ,ice or some iced ,fruits and some ,coffee4 ,and this repast might well be washed down by a bottle of ,montrachet #ahhe1 with a glass of ,fine ,champagne ,palais de ,st-,cloud to follow4 ,this is the menu of the banquet3-- ,le ,caviar ,imperial4 ,les ,huitres de ,burnham4 ----- ,le ,consomme ,paillard4 ,pailles ,parmesan4 ,la ,creme d',aretin4 ----- ,les ,croustades a la ,victoria4 ,eau-de-vie ,russe4 ----- ,la ,carpe a la ,chambord4 ,chablis ,moutonne4 ,le ,turbot a l',amiral4 ----- ,johannisberg #ahic4 ,le ,baron de ,pauillac persille4 ,les pommes ,macaire4 ,mouton ,rothschild ,le ,veloute ,favorite4 #ahge4 ----- ,le ,desir de ,roi4 ,clos ,vougeot #aheh4 ----- ,les ,becasses au fumet4 ,moet brut #ahhd4 ,la ,salade ,esperance4 ----- ,fine ,champagne des ,les ,asperges d',argenteuil ,tuileries #ahjj4 ,sce ,mousseline4 ----- ,la ,pyramide a l',ananas4 ,le ,souffle aux ,mandarines4 ,macarons et ,gaufrettes ,chantilly4 ----- ,la ,corbeille de ,fruits4 ,cafe4 ,what the cost of this feast would be it is difficult to estimate1 and ,i will not even hazard a guess4 ,i asked1 last spring1 an ,englishman who knows his ,paris better than most ,parisians1 what he would consider a typical breakfast1 dinner1 and supper in ,paris1 and he answered1 ,breakfast chez ,henri at the ,gaillon1 dine at the ,ritz1 and sup at ,durand's4 ,there are two ,henri's in ,paris1 one is the little hotel and ,english bar1 and the other is in the ,place ,gaillon4 ,henri's ,restaurant ,gaillon had its days of celebrity in the ,second ,empire1 and then sank1 as the ,maison ,grossetete1 from grace until ,henri ,drouet1 leaving ,paillard's1 established himself there4 ,when ,i first knew the restaurant it had ,paillard's cookery1 but not ,paillard's prices2 but now that the whole of the monde qui dine has found it out1 ,i fancy that the scale of prices has risen to a level with that of the parent restaurant4 ,the first room is the best one to breakfast or dine in1 for the others on hot days are apt to be very stuffy2 and it is well to order a table by telephone in advance4 ,henri's1 it always seems to me1 has a more tempting table of cold viands1 pates1 and tarts and friandises set out than any other restaurateur's1 and many of the habitues at lunch-time order eggs or fish1 and then turn their attention to the cold buffet4 ,when dining at ,henri's the ,consomme ,fortunato1 the filets de sole of the restaurant1 the ,noisettes de ,veau ,port ,mahon1 the ,crepes des ,gourmets should be remembered4 ,if you want a dinner for twelve1 you cannot do better than order the following1 or rather select dishes from it1 for it is unreasonably lengthy as it stands3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre a la ,russe4 ,,potages4 ,consomme ,viveur4 ,pailles et ,parmesan4 ,,poisson4 ,timbale de ,homard a l',americaine4 ,,entrees4 ,baron de ,pauillac a la ,boulangere4 ,endives ,pochees au jus4 ,escalopes de ,foies grand ,opera4 ,,roti4 ,becasses ,flambees au fumet4 ,salade ,port ,mahon4 ,mousse ,bohemienne glacee4 ,truffes au ,champagne a la gelee4 ,,legumes4 ,asperges fraiches4 ,sce ,mousseline4 ,,entremets4 ,souffle ,valenciennes4 ,poires ,gaillon4 ,there are several other restaurants which claim to be quite first class1 and which are smart and amusing4 ,two such are the restaurants facing the ,madeleine1 ,durand's1 and ,la ,rue's4 ,it was in one of the little rooms on the first floor of ,durand's that the ,brav' ,general sat debating in his mind whether he should initiate a coup d'etat1 and the crowd outside waited and watched1 expecting something to happen4 ,nothing did happen4 ,general ,boulanger thought so long1 that the decisive moment passed1 and he went home to bed4 ,boulanger has gone1 but his friends1 grey-headed now1 breakfast daily at ,durand's4 ,la ,rue's was also a restaurant in favour with ,general ,boulanger1 and ,i fancy that the little dinner-parties he gave there helped much to bring the place into celebrity4 ,both these restaurants have lately been enlarged and redecorated1 and ,la ,rue's advertises a great deal1 which no doubt has increased its clientele1 but which has not decreased its prices4 ,parisian ,society has decreed that it is smart to sup at ,durand's1 and ,i always find it an excellent place at which to breakfast4 ,the last time that ,i took my morning meal there ,i found all the younger members of the ,british ,embassy breakfasting there1 a sure sign that the place is just now on the crest of the wave4 ,some of the specialities of ,durand's are ,potage ,henri ,,iv41 ,consomme ,baigneuse1 petits diables1 ,barbue ,durand1 ,poulet ,saute ,grand ,duc1 ,salade ,georgette1 ,souffle ,pole ,nord1 and of course a variation of the inevitable canard a la presse and the woodcock subjected to an auto-da-fe4 ,this is the supper that the ,restaurant ,durand gave its clients on the greatest supping night of the year1 ,christmas ,eve1 #aijb4 ,the boudin of course all ,paris has for supper on the night before the great ,christmas feast3-- ,consomme de ,volaille au fumet de ,celeris4 ,boudin grille a la ,parisienne4 ,ailerons de ,volaille a la ,tzar4 ,cailles a la ,lucullus4 ,salade ,durand4 ,ecrevisses de la ,meuse a la nage4 ,crepes ,suzette4 ,dessert4 ,champagnes4 ,clicquot ,brut1 ,pommery ,drapeau ,americain4 ,gde ,fine ,napoleon4 ,at ,la ,rue's ,i have felt inclined sometimes to protest when ,i have been charged #b francs for half-a-dozen prawns1 and to think that the vermillion-coloured seats are being paid for too quickly out of profits2 but ,i rarely pass through ,paris without breakfasting there1 and eating the cold poached eggs in jelly1 the ,grenouilles a la ,mariniere1 or one of the dishes of cold fish which are excellently served4 ,some of the specialities of the house are ,potage ,reine1 ,barbue a la ,russe1 ,caille a la ,souvaroff1 ,tournedos a la ,rossini1 ,caneton de ,rouen au ,sang1 ,becasse ,flambee1 ,salade ,gauloise1 ,crepes ,suzette1 ,glace ,gismonda1 ,peches ,flambees and from this list any one could choose either a little dinner or a big one4 ,of restaurants attached to hotels ,i do not propose to write in this article1 with one exception1 for there are few of the hundreds of hotels at which one cannot get a very fair dinner2 and at some1 such as the ,elysee ,palace1 over which ,caesario presides1 one can get an excellent one2 but the purpose of this book is to give information to the man who wishes to dine away from hotels4 ,the one exception is the ,ritz1 in the ,place ,vendome1 and ,i include this in my list because the ,ritz is a restaurant firstly1 and an hotel secondly1 and because as a dining place it holds an exceptional position in ,paris4 ,it is the restaurant of the smartest foreign society in ,paris1 and the ,english1 ,americans1 ,russians1 ,spaniards1 dining there always outnumber greatly the ,french4 ,it is a place of great feasts1 but it is also a restaurant at which the maitres-d'hotel are instructed not to suggest long dinners to the patrons of the establishment4 ,in ,m4 ,elles' hands or that of the maitre-d'hotel there is no fear of being rushed into ordering an over-lengthy repast4 ,this is a typical little dinner for three ,i once ate at the ,ritz1 and as a feast in the autumn it is worth recording and repeating3-- ,caviar4 ,consomme ,viveni4 ,mousseline de ,soles au vin du ,rhin4 ,queues d',ecrevisses a l',americaine4 ,escalopes de ,riz de veau ,favorite4 ,perdreaux ,truffes4 ,salade4 ,asperges vertes en branches4 ,coupes aux ,marrons4 ,friandises4 ,in the afternoon the long passage with its chairs1 carpets1 and hangings all of crushed strawberry colour is filled with tea-drinkers1 for the #e o'clock is very popular in ,paris1 and the ,ritz is one of the smartest if not the smartest place at which to drink tea4 ,in the evening the big restaurant1 with its ceiling painted to represent the sky and its mirrors latticed to represent windows1 is always full1 the contrast to a smart ,english restaurant being that three-quarters of the ladies dine in their hats4 ,sometimes very elaborate entertainments are given in the ,ritz1 and ,i can recall one occasion on a hot summer night1 when the garden was tented over and turned into a gorge apparently somewhere near the ,north ,pole1 there being blocks and pillars of ice everywhere4 ,the anteroom was a mass of palms1 and the idea of the assemblage of the guests in the tropics and their sudden transference to the land of ice was excellently carried out4 ,i give the menu of another great dinner at the ,ritz because1 not only has it some of the specialities of the house embodied in it1 but that it is a good specimen of what a great dinner should be1 being important but not heavy3-- ,caviar frais4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,royal ,tortue ,claire4 ,creme d',artichauts4 ,mousseline d',eperlans aux ,ecrevisses a l',americaine4 ,noisettes de ,ris de ,veau au fumet de ,champignons4 ,selle de ,chevreuil ,grand ,veneur4 ,puree de ,marrons4 ,poularde de ,houdan ,vendome4 ,sorbets au ,kirsch4 ,ortolans aux ,croutons4 ,coeurs de ,laitues4 ,asperges vertes en branches4 ,sauce ,mousseline4 ,ananas voile a l',orientale4 ,friandises4 ,corbeilles de ,fruits4 ,,vins4 ,chateau ,caillou #ahhh4 ,chateau ,leoville ,lascases #ahgh 7,magnums74 ,lanson ,brut #ahib 7,magnums74 ,chateau ,yquem #ahfi4 ,grande ,fine ,champagne #agij 7,ritz ,reserve74 ,there are a score of capital restaurants in ,paris which may be called bourgeois without in any way detracting from their excellence4 ,an excellent type of such a restaurant is ,maire's1 at the corner of the ,bd4 ,st-,dennis1 owned by the company which controls the ,paillard's ,restaurant of the ,champs ,elysees4 ,it is a good place to dine at for any one going to the play at the ,porte ,st-,martin1 the ,renaissance1 the ,theatre ,antoine1 or any of the music halls or theatres in the west of ,paris4 ,mushrooms always seem to me to play a great part in the cookery at ,maire's1 and the ,poulet ,maire is a fowl cooked with mushrooms2 but the restaurant has a long list of specialities of all kinds1 and the mushroom only appears in some of them4 ,charbonnier is the especial dinner wine of the house1 and it is said that the name was originally given to the wine owing to the discovery of a quantity of it stored under sticks of charcoal in the days when ,maire's was only a wine-shop4 ,next door to the ,gymnase ,theatre is ,marguery's1 which always seems to be full1 and where the service is rather too hurried and too slap-dash to suit the contemplative gourmet2 but ,marguery's has its special claim to fame as the place where the ,sole ,marguery was invented1 and though ,i have eaten the dish in half a hundred restaurants1 there is no place where it is so perfectly cooked as in the restaurant where it was first thought of1 for nowhere else is the sauce quite as good or as strong4 ,notta1 #b ,bd4 ,poissoniere1 and ,noel ,peters in the ,passage des ,princes1 both have claims to celebrity for their cooking1 and the fish dishes at the latter1 the ,filet de ,sole ,noel for instance1 are a speciality4 ,the ,boeuf a la ,mode1 ,rue de ,valois1 near the ,palais ,royale1 is a place of good cookery4 ,there are two restaurants to which ,i generally go if ,i want good food but have not time to linger over it1 having cut my time rather close when going to a theatre or to catch a train4 ,one of these is ,lucas's in the little square opposite the ,madeleine1 and the other is the ,champeaux1 ,place de la ,bourse4 ,lucas has rather an old-fashioned clientele and his restaurant is not very bright1 but the cooking is good1 and if in a hurry one is served very quickly4 ,the ,hareng ,lucas is an exceptionally stimulating hors-d'oeuvre1 and there is a selection of old brandies to choose from as liqueurs which ,i fancy cannot be surpassed at any restaurant in ,paris4 ,the ,champeaux1 with its garden and trees growing through the roof1 is the restaurant of the ,bourse4 ,it has a good cook1 it has its specialities of cuisine1 and it has a particularly good cellar of wines4 ,one can dine there in the leisurely manner in which a dinner should be eaten by sane men2 but the maitres-d'hotel used to business men know that there are occasions when it is necessary to be in a hurry1 and they can serve a dinner very quickly4 ,at the ,champeaux1 which has much history behind it1 the ,chateaubriand was invented which gives eternal honour to the restaurant4 ,i am told that ,sylvain's remains a good dining place1 but ,i have not been within its doors since the days when it attained celebrity as a supper place in favour with the butterfly ladies of ,paris4 ,across the ,river ,on the south side of the ,seine there are three restaurants worthy the consideration of the gourmet1--the ,tour d',argent1 ,la ,peyrouse1 and ,foyot's4 ,the ,tour d',argent is on the ,quai de la ,tourelle1 just beyond the island on which ,notre ,dame stands4 ,it is a little old-fashioned place with a narrow entrance hall and a low-ceilinged parlour4 ,frederic is its proprietor1 and since ,joseph of the ,marivaux died ,frederic remains the one great character in the dining world of ,paris4 ,in appearance he is the double of ,ibsen1 the same sweeping whiskers1 the same wave of hair brushed straight off from the forehead4 ,he is an inventor of dishes1 and it is well to ask for a list of his creations1 which are of fish1 eggs1 meat1 and fruit1 and are generally named after some patron of the establishment1--,canape ,clarence ,mackay1 ,filet de ,sole ,gibbs1 ,filet de ,lievre ,arnold ,white1 ,oeufs ,claude ,lowther1 ,poire ,wannamaker1 and so on4 ,a marquis1 ,m4 de ,lauzieres de ,themines1 has written a long poem about ,frederic1 which is printed on the back of the list of creations1 and an artist has painted a portrait of the great man which will be shown to you if you have proved yourself a real gourmet4 ,madame ,frederic1 or his daughter1 will hold the canvas for your inspection1 and ,frederic himself1 brushing back his whiskers1 will stand beside it in order that you may see what an excellent likeness it is4 ,it is as well to interest ,frederic in the ordering of your meal1 and if you give him an idea of your requirements1 he will select two or three of his creations which will make up a perfect meal4 ,i always ask for a ,filet de ,sole ,cardinal1 which is one of his best dishes1 and look to him to group a couple of other plats with it to make a perfect breakfast1 for ,i look on the ,tour d',argent as being a better place to breakfast at than to dine at1 owing to its distance from the centre of ,paris4 ,frederic thinking out his dishes drops into a reverie and turns his eyes up to the ceiling4 ,i once took a lady to breakfast at the ,tour--she had selected it as being quite close to the ,morgue1 which she wanted to see after lunch1 having a liking for cheerful sights--and she had the daring to interrupt ,frederic's reverie4 ,and for the eggs8 ,i had said insinuatingly to the creator of dishes1 and he had dropped into deepest thought4 ,uffs a la plat1 said the lady1 who fancied we were both at a loss as to how eggs could be cooked4 ,frederic came back from the clouds and gave the lady one look4 ,it was not a look of anger1 or contempt1 but simply an expression of pity for the whole of her sex4 ,frederic1 as ,joseph did1 holds that a dinner to be good must be short1 which is1 ,i believe1 the first axiom that every true gourmet should enunciate and hold by1 and an excellent proof that he holds to his tenets was once given me4 ,when the ,behring ,sea ,conference sat in ,paris1 the ,american and ,english members used frequently to dine together after their labours4 ,lord ,hannen had heard of the ,tour d',argent1 and sent his secretary1 a clever barrister1 to order dinner there for all the members4 ,he went to the ,quai de la ,tourelle1 saw ,frederic1 and sketched out to him a regular ,eaton ,square dinner1 two entrees1 a joint1 sorbet1 game1 an iced pudding1 a savoury1 and fruit4 ,frederic heard him out1 and then very politely suggested that he should go elsewhere1 for such a barbarous feast could not be served in the ,tour d',argent4 ,if you are in great favour ,frederic will cook you a dish himself1 and will bustle into the room with the creation in his hands and great beads of perspiration1 drawn out by the kitchen fire1 on his broad brow4 ,i am sorry1 however1 to have to write that the last time ,i saw ,frederic1 at the close of #aijb1 he was very ill4 ,he complained of his chest1 said that the weather oppressed him1 and lamented the death of ,joseph which had taken a friend and a brother artist away4 ,his hair had lost its bold curve and his whiskers their glory4 ,i told him in all sincerity that he must get over his malady1 for that as there are so few creators and great maitres-d'hotel left we cannot spare one of the most original and most accomplished of them4 ,la ,peyrouse on the ,quai des ,grands ,augustins1 is a little house with many small rooms4 ,it is known to the students of the ,quartier as ,le ,navigateur4 ,it is a favourite resort of the members of the ,paris bar1 has its special dishes1 one of which is1 as a matter of course1 ,filets de ,sole ,la ,peyrouse1 and a most excellent cellar of ,burgundies and white ,bordeaux4 ,the ,cerons at #c francs is excellent money's worth4 ,the ,restaurant ,foyot is almost opposite the ,luxembourg ,gallery1 and is a very handy restaurant to dine at when going to the ,odeon4 ,potage ,foyot1 ,riz de ,veau ,foyot1 ,homard ,foyot1 and ,biscuit ,foyot are some of the dishes of the house1 and all to be recommended4 ,the anarchists once tried to blow up ,foyot's with a bomb2 but the only person injured was an anarchist poet1 who has so far been false to his tenets as to dine in the company of aristocrats1 and was tranquilly eating a ,truite ,meuniere1 in company with a beautiful lady1 when his friends outside let off their firework4 ,the hors-d'oeuvre at ,foyot's are particularly good4 ,it is1 however1 a restaurant at which it is exceptionally difficult to get one's bill when one is in a hurry4 ,summer ,restaurants ,of the restaurants in the ,champs ,elysees1 ,laurent's and ,paillard's are the most aristocratic4 ,at ,laurent's ,i generally find in summer some of the younger members of the staffs of the ,embassies breakfasting under the trees behind the hedge which shuts the restaurant off from the bustle of ,paris outside4 ,of the special dishes of the house the ,canard ,pompeienne remains to me an especially grateful memory4 ,it is a cold duck stuffed with most of the rich edible things of this world1 foie gras predominating1 and it is covered with designs in red and black on a white ground4 ,paillard's bonbonniere1 in the ,champs ,elysees1 is in the hands of the company which also owns ,maire's ,restaurant1 to which ,i have already alluded4 ,m4 ,paillard and the company formed under his name settled a disagreement in the law courts1 with the result that ,m4 ,paillard retained the restaurant at the corner of the ,chaussee d',antin as his property1 and the company took possession of the ,restaurant ,maire and the ,pavillion des ,champs ,elysees4 ,this1 however1 is mere history1 for the ,pavillion serves its meals with all the quiet luxury of the parent house1 and ,i have a memory of a ,potage ,creme d',antin which was especially excellent4 ,ledoyen's has attained a particular celebrity as the restaurant where every one lunches on the vernissage day of the ,salon4 ,at dinner-time1 on a fine evening1 every table on the stretch of gravel before the little villa is occupied1 and the good bourgeois1 the little clerk taking his wife and mother-in-law out to dinner1 are just as much in evidence1 and more so1 than the smarter classes of ,parisians4 ,the service is rather haphazard on a crowded night1 and scurrying waiters appeal to the carvers in pathetic tones to wheel the moving tables on which the joints are kept hot up to their particular tables4 ,the food is good1 but not always served as hot as it should be--the fault of all open-air dining places4 ,the wine-list is a good one1 and ,i have drunk at ,ledoyen's excellent champagne of the good brands and the great years at a comparatively small price4 ,guillemin1 who was cook to the ,duc de ,vincennes1 brought ,ledoyen's into great favour in the fifties of the last century4 ,the ,bouillon ,riche1 just behind the ,alcazar1 with its girl waiters ,i have generally found even more haphazard than ,ledoyen's4 ,its food is neither noticeably good nor is it indifferent4 ,the ,ambassadeurs prides itself on being quite a first-class restaurant1 and it is one of the special experiences of the foreigner in ,paris to dine at one of the tables in the balcony looking towards the stage1 and to listen to the concert while you drink your coffee and sip your fine champagne4 ,i have kept the menu of one such dinner1 very well cooked and well served in spite of the crowded balcony and general hubbub of the evening1 on a ,grand ,prix night4 ,what the amount of the bill was that the host of the party had to pay ,i did not inquire1 but ,i feel sure that it was a very long one4 ,this is the menu3-- ,melon4 ,potage ,ambassadeurs4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,truite ,gelee ,maconnaise4 ,ris de ,veau ,financiere4 ,demi-,vierge en ,chaud-,froid4 ,poulets de ,grain ,rotis4 ,salade de ,romaine4 ,asperges ,froides4 ,coupes ,jacques4 ,dessert4 ,petites ,fraises4 ,the cold trout was excellent1 and the wine was ,de ,st-,marceaux '#hi4 ,the ,alcazar has a restaurant somewhat similar to that of the ,ambassadeurs4 ,chevillard's1 at the ,rond ,point des ,champs ,elysees1 is not an out-of-doors restaurant1 but it is a favourite place to breakfast at on the way out to the races4 ,the cooking is good4 ,sometimes the restaurant is crowded1 and it is as well to secure a table in advance4 ,there are half-a-dozen cafes1 farms where milk is sold1 and other refreshment places in the ,bois2 but the two restaurants which the travelling gourmet is likely to dine at are the ,pavillion d',armenonville and the ,chateau de ,madrid4 ,the first is very smart1 and the glass shelter which runs round the little house is filled on a summer night with men1 all in dress-clothes1 and ladies in flowered or feathered hats4 ,the world and the half-world dine at adjacent tables1 and neither section of ,paris objects4 ,the tables are decorated with flowers1 and two bands1 which play alternately1 make music so softly that it does not interfere with conversation4 ,the cooking is good1 and the prices are rather high4 ,there are tables under the trees surrounding the building1 and some people dine at these2 but all ,paris seems to prefer to be squeezed into the least possible space under the glass verandah4 ,at the ,chateau de ,madrid the tables are set under the trees in the courtyard of the building1 and the effect of the dimly seen buildings1 the dark foliage1 and the lights is very striking4 ,the ,madrid has always been an expensive place to dine at1 but its reputation for cookery is good4 ,last year ,i dined at the ,chateau one hot summer's night and found there ,m4 ,aubanel1 who had left his little hotel at ,monte ,carlo1 during the great heats1 to take temporary command at the ,madrid1 striving to serve a great crowd of diners with an insufficient staff of waiters4 ,i trust that the proprietors have made better arrangements since to meet any sudden inrush of guests4 ,the ,madrid has a capital cellar of wine4 ,on a race-morning ,i have eaten a little breakfast1 well enough served1 at the restaurant of the ,cafe de la ,cascade4 ,supping-,places ,the fickle ,parisian crowd changes its supping-places without any apparent cause4 ,a few hundred francs spent in gilding a ceiling1 a quarrel between two damsels in gigantic hats as to which of them ordered a particular table to be reserved1 and the whole cloud of butterflies rises to settle elsewhere4 ,julien's1 ,sylvain's1 ,la ,rue's1 the ,cafe de ,la ,paix1 ,maire's1 ,paillard's all had their time when there was not a vacant seat in their rooms at #a ,a4,m4 ,durand's1 in the summer of '#ib1 was the society supping-place4 ,at the ,cafe de ,paris1 where ,m4 ,mourier1 a former maitre-d'hotel of ,maire's reigns1 the ,british matron and the travelling ,american gaze at the haute cocotterie--who patronise the right fork of the room as you enter4 ,at ,maxim's1 any gentleman may conduct the band if he wishes to1 and the tables are often cleared away and a little impromptu dance organised4 ,at the ,cafe ,americain1 the profession of the ladies who frequent it at supper-time is a little too obvious4 ,you should take your wife to ,durand's4 ,she will insist on going to the ,cafe de ,paris4 ,you should not take her to ,maxim's1 and you cannot take her to the ,americain4 ,of course1 the supping-places ,i have enumerated are but a few of the many1 for there is no ,early ,closing ,act in ,france1 every restaurant in ,paris keeps open till #b ,a4,m41 and some later1 and supper is to be had at all of them4 ,personally1 ,i am never happier at supper-time than when ,i am sitting in the back room at the ,taverne ,pousset picking crayfish out of a wooden bowl where they swim in savoury liquid1 pulling them to pieces1 and eating them as they were eaten before forks and spoons put fingers out of fashion4 ,the ,restaurant des ,fleurs1 the newest of the ,parisian restaurants1 in the ,rue ,st-,honore1 is making a bid with its decoration in the new art style to capture those who sup4 ,miscellaneous ,since ,cubat in dudgeon gave up his restaurant in the ,avenue of the ,champs ,elysees1 there has been no prominent foreign restaurant in ,paris4 ,cubat1 whose restaurant in ,st4 ,petersburg is so well known1 brought ,russian cookery to ,paris2 but though the ,parisians are fond enough of cheering for the ,dual ,alliance1 they did not dip into their pockets to keep the ,russian restaurant in existence4 ,an expensive ,german restaurant1 a relic of the last exhibition1 showed its lights just off the great boulevards1 but after a time disappeared4 ,there are ,viennese restaurants on the boulevards and in the ,rue d',hauteville1 and ,spanish and ,italian establishments may be found by the curious who wish to impair their digestion4 ,the ,englishman or ,american who has been feeding on rich food for any length of time1 often yearns for perfectly simple food4 ,at ,henry's1 at the ,club ,restaurant1 and at most of the ,english and ,american bars with which ,paris is now studded1 a chop is obtainable1 and a whisky and soda which is not poison2 but ,i1 personally1 when ,pate de ,foie ,gras becomes a horror1 truffles a burden1 and rich sauces an abomination1 go to one of the ,tavernes1 the ,royale in the ,rue ,royale1 or the ,anglais in the ,rue ,boissy d',anglas 7where you get ,lucas's food at lower prices than in the restaurant by the ,madeleine71 or into one of the many houses of plain cookery on the boulevards1 and order the simplest and least greasy soup on the bill of fare1 some plainly grilled cutlets1 and some green vegetables4 ,a pint of the second or third claret on the wine-card washes down this penitential repast4 ,at ,puloski's1 an uninviting-looking little establishment in the ,rue ,st-,honore1 ,i have eaten excellent dishes of oysters cooked according to ,american methods1 and that dry hash which boarding-house keepers across the ,atlantic are supposed to serve perpetually to their paying guests1 but which an ,american abroad is always glad to meet4 ,you will find a great variety of oysters1 ,marennes1 ,ostendes1 ,zelandes1 at ,prunier's1 in the ,rue ,duphot1 and the dishes of the house--soup1 sole1 steak--are all cooked with oysters as a foundation1 sauce1 or garnish4 ,prunier's is the house at which the travelling gourmet generally tastes his first snails1 the great ,burgundian ones with striped shells1 or the little gray fellows from the champagne vineyards4 ,if you eat ,prunier's oysters you should drink his white ,burgundy4 ,if you eat his snails1 you should drink his red wine1 for he has some excellent red ,burgundy4 ,most travellers at least once in their lives go the round of ,montmartre and its ,bohemian shows4 ,i have dined with the great ,fursy in the restaurant attached to the ,treteau de ,tabarin1 and was given good substantial bourgeois cookery4 ,i asked the singer of the ,chansons ,rosses how it was that he1 who girds at all things bourgeois and commonplace1 ran the restaurant on such simple and non-eccentric lines2 and he shrugged his shoulders1 which ,i took to mean that you may trifle with a man's intellect but not with his stomach4 ,about two in the morning1 in the upstairs room at the ,treteau1 there is often some amusement forward4 ,upstairs at the ,rat ,mort1 you may dine in comfort with ,soupe a l',onion and ,tournedos ,rat ,mort in the menu2 and at the ,abbaye de ,theleme1 and at the ,restaurant ,blanche in the place of that name1 you will find the artists and sculptors of the ,butte4 ,in the ,quartier1 ,thurion's in the ,boulevard ,st-,germain is an interesting restaurant for a wandering ,anglo-,saxon to become acquainted with1 for there he will see most of the young ,americans and ,english who are climbing up the ladder of pictorial fame4 ,it is a ,parisian ,cheshire ,cheese4 ,the floors are sawdusted1 the waiters rush about in hot haste1 and the chickens stray in from the courtyard at the back and pick up the crumbs round the tables4 ,the place has its traditions1 and you can hear tales of ,dickens and ,thackeray from the plump lady who makes up the bills4 ,good ,cheap ,restaurants ,i feel tempted in connection with this heading to write as did the naturalist of snakes in ,iceland2 but besides the tavernes and bouillons1 which give wonderful value for the money spent but do not require any lengthy mention in a book dealing with temples of the higher art1 there are one or two interesting table-d'hote restaurants where the meals are very cheap4 ,one of these is ,philippe's1 on the first floor of the ,palais ,royal1 next door to the ,petit ,vefour1 and another is the ,diner ,francais1 #bg ,bd4 des ,italiens4 ,st-,germain ,the ,pavillion ,henri ,,iv41 on the terrace of ,st-,germain1 where every travelling ,briton and ,american breakfasts once during his summer stay in ,paris1 is run by the management of the ,champeaux1 and one gets very excellent cookery and service in consequence1 the prices not being at all exorbitant4 ,one groans1 sitting at the little tables on the terraces and looking at the view1 to think of the chances some of our hotels near ,london1 with even finer views1 throw away through lack of enterprise4 ,st-,cloud ,the ,pavillion ,bleu at ,st-,cloud1 the proprietor of which1 ,m4 ,moreaux1 bought the greater portion of the grands vins of the ,maison d',or1 deserves a special word of commendation4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,french ,,provincial ,,towns ,the northern ports--,norman and ,breton towns--,the west coast and ,bordeaux--,marseilles and the ,riviera--,the ,pyrenees--,provence--,aix-les-,bains and other cure places4 ,i propose to take you1 my gastronomic reader1 first on a little tour round the coast of ,france from north-east round to south-east1 pausing at any port or any watering-place where there is any restaurant of any mark1 and then to make a few incursions inland4 ,calais is1 of course1 our starting-place1 and here my experience of leaving the buffet at the ,terminus and exploring in the town is that one goes farther and does not fare so well4 ,the buffet at ,calais always has had the reputation of being one of the best in ,europe1 and though the ,englishman new landed after a rough passage generally selects clear soup and stewed chicken as his meal1 it is quite possible to obtain an admirably cooked lunch or dinner in the room off the restaurant2 and the cold viands1 the cream cheese1 the vegetables and fruit are all worthy of attention4 ,the wagons-restaurants which are attached now to most of the express trains1 no doubt have cut into the business of the buffet restaurant2 but as a contrast to the ordinary ,british station refreshment- and dining-room the ,calais buffet deserves to be mentioned4 ,boulogne ,at ,boulogne there is a restaurant in the ,casino1 but ,i think it adds very little to the revenues of the establishment4 ,most people take their meals contentedly or discontentedly in their hotels1 but the little restaurant on the pier1 which used to belong to the widow ,poirmeur but is now the ,restaurant ,garnier1 with its miniature terrace and its windows which look out on to the waves when the tide is up1 has an individuality of its own1 and is one of the haunts of the gourmet who enjoys a meal with unusual surroundings4 ,in the winter the little restaurant hibernates4 ,if customers appear the wife of the proprietor cooks dinner or lunch for them1 and cooks very fairly2 but with the advent of summer a cook is engaged for the season1 and it is a matter of importance to the sojourner in ,boulogne whether that cook ranks as fair or good4 ,he generally is good4 ,fish1 of course1 is always fresh at ,boulogne and generally excellent in quality1 and the shell-fish are above suspicion--at least ,i never heard of anybody suffering from eating moules1--therefore a ,sole ,normande or any similar dish generally forms part of a dejeuner on the pier1 and this with an entrecote and an omelette au rhum makes a fine solid sea-side feast4 ,the buffet at the station1 since it was taken in hand by the ,south-,eastern ,railway1 is not the dreadful place of ill-cooked food it used to be4 ,at the terminus of the tramway which runs into the forest a little cabaret gives a simple meal1 and the trip out and back is the pleasantest short excursion from ,boulogne4 ,at ,wimille it is wise to inquire what charge the new hotel proposes to make before sitting down to a meal4 ,ambleteuse is another little watering-place to the north on the coast4 ,here the mid-day meal at the principal inn is lengthy if nothing else4 ,following the coast along1 ,paris-,plage has not as yet developed any restaurant of note1 and the inn at ,etaples1 which is the town on the railway whence the walk or drive to ,paris-,plage has to be undertaken1 is more famous for having given shelter to generations of artists1 some of whom have paid their bills with sketches1 than for its food1 though some of the best pre-sale mutton in ,france comes from the fields over-flowed by the estuary at high tide4 ,a goodly proportion of the shrimps and prawns one has to pay so highly for as hors-d'oeuvre in the restaurants of ,paris come from ,paris-,plage1 ,le ,touquet1 and their neighbour down the coast1 ,berk4 ,indeed1 if any gourmet has a penchant for shrimps and asses' milk1 ,berk would be his paradise4 ,treport requires no description1 but ,dieppe is a place of importance1 and in the days of the ,second ,empire ,lafosse's ,restaurant in the ,grande ,rue used to be one of the very best dining places in the provinces of ,france4 ,good cooking is now to be looked for from ,cabois1 #gd ,grande ,rue1 from ,beaufils1 ,rue de la ,barre1 and from ,lefebvre1 ,rue de l',hotel de ,ville4 ,m4 ,ducordet1 the proprietor of the ,grand ,hotel1 who was the happy man chosen to supply ,m4 ,felix ,faure with a banquet when he visited ,dieppe1 caters for the ,casino and the ,golf ,club4 ,the ,casino restaurant is worthy of all commendation4 ,the buffet at the ,gare ,maritime is above the average of buffets in its cookery4 ,the restaurant of the ,hotel ,chateau at ,puys1 a mile and a half from ,dieppe1 is owned by ,mons4 ,pelettier of local celebrity1 who has collected an excellent cellar of wine4 ,at ,pourville1 two miles from ,dieppe1 ,mons4 ,gras is responsible for the entertainment at the ,hotel ,casino4 ,the restaurant has a special reputation1 made by ,papa ,paul ,graff1 who was formerly one of the many chefs de cuisine of ,napoleon ,,iii41 and who left the ,tuileries to keep the hotel4 ,the proprietor is very proud of his kitchens and larders1 and is delighted to show them to visitors4 ,havre is one of the towns in which the ,englishman or ,american crossing to ,southampton or coming thence often finds himself for some hours4 ,tortoni's in the market-place has a reputation for good cooking1 but judging from the two or three dinners ,i have eaten there1 both a la carte and the table-d'hote one at #e francs1 the cookery is of the good solid bourgeois order1 eight courses and a pint of wine for one's money4 ,in days long gone by there used to be this footnote to the carte du jour at ,tortoni's1 ,les hors-d'oeuvres ne se remplacent pas1 which was translated for the benefit of the ,english1 ,the out-of-works do not replace themselves4 ,tortoni's ,hotel ,restaurant must not be confounded with the ,brasserie ,tortoni quite close to it1 which is a bachelor's resort2 but which ,i1 as a bachelor1 have found very amusing sometimes after dinner4 ,frascati's ,restaurant1 an adjunct to the big hotel on the sea-shore1 is the swagger restaurant of the place1 and many a man who has come over by the midnight boat and has stayed for a bathe and a meal at ,frascati's before going on to ,paris by the mid-day train has breakfasted there in content4 ,the ,ecrevisses ,bordelaises1 the ,croutes aux ,champignons1 the ,salade ,russe here have left me pleasant memories4 ,in the winter the chef retires to ,paris or elsewhere1 and the restaurant is not to be so thoroughly trusted2 and sometimes when a crowd of passengers are going across to ,southampton by the night boat to catch an ,american steamer1 ,i have found the attendance very sketchy1 owing to the waiters having more work than they can do satisfactorily4 ,the restaurant is in the verandah facing the sea4 ,so much from my own experience4 ,other people with larger knowledge all have a good word to say for ,frascati's1 but all a word of caution as to its prices4 ,it is wise to look at the price of the champagnes1 for instance1 before giving an order4 ,the official dinners at ,havre are always given at ,frascati's1 and it is here that the ,british colony holds its annual banquet on the ,king's birthday4 ,i append a menu of a dinner of ceremony at ,frascati's which1 though it is miles too long1 is a very noble feast3-- ,tortue claire a la ,francaise4 ,creme ,du ,barry4 ,rissoles ,lucullus4 ,caisses de laitances ,dieppoise4 ,barbues dorees a la ,vatel4 ,selle de ,chevreuil ,nemrod4 ,poularde du ,mans ,cambaceres4 ,terrines d',huitres a la ,joinville4 ,cailles de vigne braisees ,parisienne4 ,granites a l',armagnac4 ,faisans de ,compiegne rotis4 ,truffes au ,champagne4 ,salade ,chrysantheme4 ,pains de pointes d',asperges a la ,creme4 ,turbans d',ananas4 ,glace ,frascati4 ,dessert4 ,the ,hotel de ,normandie is another hostel at which the cooking is good and the wines excellent4 ,this is a menu of a table-d'hote diner maigre served there on ,good ,friday1 and it is an excellent example of a meal without meat3-- ,bisque d',ecrevisses4 ,reine ,christine4 ,filets de ,soles ,normandy4 ,nouillettes ,napolitaine en ,caisse4 ,saumon de la ,loire ,tartare4 ,sorbets ,supreme ,fecamp4 ,coquille de ,homard a l',americaine4 ,sarcelles sur ,canape4 ,salade panachee4 ,asperges d',argenteuil ,mousseline4 ,petits ,pois au ,sucre4 ,glace ,quo ,vadis4 ,petits ,fours4 ,corbeille de ,fruits4 ,dessert4 ,the cooking at the ,continental ,hotel is reported as being good1 but its wine-list does not meet with so much praise4 ,the ,burgundies1 red and white1 at the ,hotel du ,bordeaux are highly praised4 ,one of my correspondents sends me an account of ,perrier's1 a little restaurant1 which ,i give in his own words4 ,the quaintest and most original place in ,havre is a little restaurant on the quay1 opposite where the ,trouville boats start from4 ,it is known equally well as ',perier's' or the ,restaurant des ,pilotes4 ,it is kept by one ,buholzer1 who was at one time chef at ,rubion's in ,marseilles4 ,he afterwards was chef on one of the big ,transatlantique boats1 where he learnt to mix a very fair cocktail4 ,the entrance is through a tiny cafe with sanded tiled floor4 ,thence a corkscrew staircase leads to a fair-sized room on the first floor4 ,all the food you get there is excellent1 and ,bouillabaisse or ,homard a l',americaine 'constructed' by the boss1 is a joy1 not for ever1 but in the case of the first named1 for some time4 ,the house does not go in for a very varied selection of wines1 but what there is is good4 ,ask for their special roll4 ,the same correspondent goes on to tell me that the proprietor of the ,broche a ,rotir at ,st-,adresse1 who used to be his own chef1 and attained much local celebrity1 has sold the goodwill1 but that the place is still to be commended1 and that ,bequet of the ,restaurant ,bequet can1 if he likes1 cook the best dinner in the department2 but that you must find him in the mood4 ,of cafes in ,havre1 the ,cafe ,prader1 near the theatre1 and the ,paris are the two where the drinkables are sure to be of good quality4 ,rouen ,at ,rouen the gourmet has a right to expect the ,caneton ,rouennaise and the ,sole ,normande to be cooked to perfection2 and outside the hotels1 some of which have excellent cooking1 there is a restaurant1 the ,francais1 in the ,rue ,jacques le ,lieur1 a street which runs behind the ,hotel d',angleterre1 parallel to the ,quai de la ,bourse4 ,of course the ,rouen duck is not any particular breed of duck1 though the good people of ,rouen will probably stone you if you assert this4 ,it is simply a roan duck4 ,the rich sauce which forms part of the dish was1 however1 invented at ,rouen4 ,the delights of the ,sole ,normande ,i need not dilate on4 ,a good bottle of ,burgundy is the best accompaniment to the duck4 ,the ,restaurant de ,paris1 in the ,rue de la ,grosse ,horloge1 is a very cheap restaurant1 where you get a great deal to eat at dinner for #b francs1 and where you will find the ,choux ,farcies and other homely dishes of ,normandy as well as the excellent little cream cheeses of the country4 ,crossing the ,seine1 one is in the land of cider and ,pont l',eveque cheese4 ,at ,honfleur you will find a very good table-d'hote at the old-fashioned ,cheval ,blanc on the ,quai2 and at the ,ferme ,st-,simeon up on the hill1 in beautifully wooded ground1 there is to be obtained some particularly good sparkling cider4 ,honfleur has a special reputation for its shrimps and prawns4 ,trouville ,deauville ,during the ,trouville fortnight1 when all the world descends upon ,trouville1 the various big hotels and the ,casino have more clients than they really can cater for4 ,at the ,roches ,noires one is likely to be kept waiting for a table1 and at the ,casino a harassed waiter thrusts a red mullet before one1 when one has ordered a sole4 ,the moules of ,trouville are supposed to be particularly good1 and also the fish4 ,there are table-d'hote meals at the restaurants of the ,helder and ,de la ,plage1 the second being the cheaper of the two1 and food is to be obtained at the little ,cafe ,restaurant on the edge of the promenade des planches4 ,but ,trouville in the season may be taken to be exiled ,paris in a fever1 half as expensive again1 and not half so well done4 ,of the little bathing-places immediately east of ,trouville--,houlgate-,beuzeval1 ,dives1 ,cabourg--there is little or nothing to say4 ,at ,cabourg the ,hotel des ,ducs de ,normandie has some kiosks with a full view of the sea1 where it is pleasant to breakfast1 and the ,casino can always be taken for granted as a pis aller at all these little bathing-places4 ,the quaintness of the old inn ,guillaume le ,conquerant at ,dives counts for something1 and the #e franc table-d'hote dinner there is good of its kind4 ,caen ,tripes a la mode de ,caen may be a homely dish but it is not to be despised1 and it can be eaten quite at its best in the town where it was invented4 ,i have eaten it with great content at a bourgeois restaurant1 opposite to the ,church of ,st-,pierre1 the ,restaurant ,pepin1 if my memory serves me rightly1 and a ,sole ,bordeaux to precede it4 ,the proprietor1 ,m4 ,chandivert1 was very anxious that ,i should add a ,caneton ,rouennaise to the feast1 but ,i told him that to every town its dish4 ,he gave me a capital pint of red wine1 and impressed on me the fact that he had obtained a gold medal at some exhibition for his andouillettes4 ,caen is the town of the charcutiers1 and you may see more good cold viands shown in windows1 in a walk through its streets1 than you will find anywhere else outside a cookery exhibition4 ,caen is an oasis in the midst of the bad cookery of ,western ,normandy2 and the restaurant at the ,hotel d',angleterre and the ,restaurant de ,madrid are very much above the average of the restaurant of a ,french country town4 ,in both restaurants you can dine and breakfast in the shade in the open air1 the ,madrid having a good garden1 the ,angleterre a great tent in the courtyard1--a welcome change from the stuffy rooms1 full of flies1 of most ,normandy hotels4 ,i have a most pleasant memory of a ,homard ,americaine1 cooked at the ,hotel d',angleterre1 which was the very best lobster ,i ever ate in my life4 ,the old chef who made the fame of the ,angleterre has retired1 but his successor is said to show no falling off in the art of preparing a good dinner4 ,i would suggest to the wayfarer to breakfast in the garden of the ,madrid and dine at the ,angleterre4 ,there is a little restaurant1 ,a la ,tour des ,gens d',armes1 on the left bank of the canal which is much frequented by students1 and where an al fresco lunch is served at a very small price4 ,the food is good for the money1 and there is always a chance of finding some merry gathering there4 ,a note of warning should be sounded as to the cider and vin ordinaire supplied as part of the table-d'hote dinners in ,caen1 and indeed everywhere in ,normandy4 ,there is almost invariably good cider to be had and good wine on payment1 but the cider and wine usually put on the table rival each other as throat-cutting beverages4 ,vieux ,calvados is an excellent pousse cafe4 ,it reads almost like a fairy-tale to be able to recount that the delicious oysters from the coast-villages of ,ouistreham and ,courseulles can be bought at #ej centimes the dozen or very little more4 ,cherbourg ,this calling-place for ,atlantic steamers is a very likely place for the earnest gourmet to find himself stranded in for a day1 and ,i regret that there is no gastronomic find to report there4 ,a most competent authority writes thus to me on the capabilities of the place3-- ,there are no restaurants1 in the true sense of the word1 in ,cherbourg4 ,the leading hotel1 where most of the people go1 and which is the largest1 with the best cuisine and service1 is the ,hotel du ,casino4 ,this hotel is managed by ,monsieur ,marius1 and though partially shut during the winter season1 travellers can always get a good plain dinner there4 ,during the summer season1 that is from ,may till ,october1 the hotel is fully open1 and has a petits chevaux room1 entry free of course1 and also good military music in the gardens1 twice a week4 ,the gardens are also very prettily illuminated very often1 whilst from time to time firework displays help to pass away the evenings4 ,the dining-hall faces the only nice portion of beach in the town1 and being entirely covered in with glass1 is warm in winter and cool in summer1 when it can all be open4 ,the meals are usually table-d'hote1 but it is possible also to order a dinner if one prefers to do so4 ,here also the traveller will find a little ,english spoken among the waiters and management1 which may be useful to him4 ,the wines are pretty good1 but there is no very special brand for which the place is known2 also good ,scotch and ,irish whisky can be obtained at a reasonable price2 the hotel does not boast of any special plat either4 ,the ,hotel de ,france1 another fair-sized hotel1 is the one patronised mostly by the naval and military authorities of the town1 but is not so amusing a place for the traveller to stay at or dine at2 though ,i understand that the dinner to be obtained there is in every way satisfactory4 ,finally1 ,i might mention two other hotels at which one can dine comfortably2 these are the ,hotel d',amiraute and the ,hotel d',angleterre1 at both of which a good plain dinner is served4 ,the chief joint obtainable here to be recommended is of course the mutton1 as ,cherbourg is noted for its pre-sale all over ,france2 but beyond this the food is of the usual ordinary kind to be obtained in most ,french towns of this size4 ,m4 ,roche1 who made a little fortune in ,london in ,old ,compton ,street1 has taken a little hotel near ,granville1 and as he learned cooking under ,frederic of the ,tour d',argent1 he may be depended upon for an excellent meal4 ,breton ,resorts ,of the land of butter and eggs ,i have not much to write4 ,correspondents at ,st-,malo say a good word of the feeding both at the ,hotel de l',univers and the ,hotel du ,centre et de la ,paix2 but ,i cannot speak of either of these from personal knowledge1 nor do ,i know anything of ,dinard1 though it is said that the best cookery in the province is found there4 ,cancale of course has its oyster-beds1 and the esculent bivalve can be eaten within sight of the mud-flat on which it erstwhile reposed4 ,the one restaurant in this part of the world for which every one has a good word is that of ,poulard ,aine at ,mont ,st-,michel1 where there is a cheap table-d'hote and where a good meal a la carte is also to be obtained4 ,artichokes1 prawns1 potatoes1 langouste1 eggs1 lobsters1 crabs1 are good all along the ,breton coast2 and at ,quimper1 at the ,hotel de l',epee1 you can--if you are in luck--get fresh sardines4 ,here is a typical ,breton menu1 one of the meals at the ,hotel des ,bains de ,mer1 ,roscoff3-- ,artichauts a l',huile4 ,pommes de terre a l',huile4 ,porc frais froid aux ,cornichons4 ,langouste ,mayonnaise4 ,canards aux ,navets4 ,omelette fines ,herbes4 ,filet aux ,pommes4 ,fromage a la ,creme4 ,fruits1 biscuits1 etc4 ,cidre a discretion4 ,this is rather a terrible mass of food ranged in the strangest order1 but ,i insert it to show the traveller in ,brittany that he need never think his meal ended when he reaches the omelette1 and that he had better take a gargantuan appetite with him4 ,apart from being a good homely place to stay at1 ,la ,villa ,julia at ,pont ,aven is worth a visit1 for it has been the temporary home of many of the greatest ,french painters1 notably poor ,bastien ,lepage4 ,they are welcome1 and are provided with studios1 only being charged #e francs a day pension4 ,the country is charming writes an enthusiastic correspondent and one lingers there1 and the food is excellent4 ,even were it not1 dear old ,mlle4 ,julia is worth a journey4 ,she is one of the most delightful of ,french landladies4 ,in the old inn the walls of one large room are covered with pictures and sketches given her by her chers artistes4 ,brest ,this great naval town has better cafes than it has dining or lunching places2 the ,cafe ,brestois in the ,rue de ,siam1 and the ,grand ,cafe in the same street being both good4 ,besides the restaurants attached to the ,hotels des ,voyageurs1 ,rue de ,siam1 ,continentale1 and de ,france in the ,rue de la ,mairie1 there are the ,restaurant ,aury and the ,brasserie de la ,marine1 both on the ,champ de ,bataille1 but ,i have no details concerning them4 ,skipping ,nantes as being out of the route of the ,anglo-,saxon abroad1 though in the ,place ,grasselin the ,francais and the ,cambronne both deserve a word1 and the ,plages d',ocean which lie between ,nantes and ,bordeaux as being purely ,french1 though ,rochefort has a ,european reputation for its cheese1 and ,marennes for its oysters1 ,i step down from the platform to make room for my co-author ,a4,b41 who will take up the parable as to ,bordeaux ,bordeaux is1 of course1 the home of claret1 and good feeding goes with good liquor1 the combination being essential4 ,the result is that here you can procure a good dinner with the best of wines1 which being consumed1 so to say1 on the spot where they have matured1 are in perfection both as to flavour and condition4 ,the ,hotel ,restaurant du ,chapon ,fin1 under the management of ,,mm4 ,dubois and ,mendionde1 is perhaps the best in the town4 ,here an excellent dinner a la carte is to be had and the service is tres soignee4 ,the cellar comprises the finest wines of the ,gironde1 ,lafite1 ,haut ,brion1 ,latour1 ,margaux ,leoville1 etc41 with ,pommery1 ,mumm1 ,cliquot as champagnes4 ,but to my idea1 any one asking for champagne at ,bordeaux would order a pork pie at ,strasbourg4 ,the ,chapon ,fin is fairly expensive1 but good food and good ,lafite are not given away4 ,the appointments of the hotel are excellent4 ,the ,cafe de ,bordeaux is a more popular establishment with brilliant decorations1 and if you do not wish for an a la carte dinner1 you are provided with a very good set dejeuner for #d francs4 ,dinner can be had for #e francs1 with a concert thrown in4 ,another good hotel and restaurant with fairly moderate terms is the ,bayonne1 also boasting of a fine cellar of wine and service a la carte4 ,in fact many people aver that at the ,bayonne one can get as good if not a better dinner than at any other restaurant in ,bordeaux4 ,the ,hotel des ,princes et de la ,paix has the ,restaurant ,sansot attached to it1 which is quite good4 ,the ,restaurant de ,paris1 situated on the lovely ,promenade des ,allees de ,tourny1 is a first-class establishment with very moderate prices1 where a capital dejeuner can be obtained for #b francs #ej centimes1 or a dinner for #c francs4 ,the proprietor1 ,mons4 ,debreuil1 was chef at some of the best cafes in ,paris1 and he has a clientele of many well-known epicures in ,bordeaux4 ,all these restaurants have saloons for private parties in case you require them4 ,the principal specialite of ,bordeaux1 besides claret1 is lampreys1 which1 when cooked a la ,bordelaise1 are about as rich and luscious a dish as a most ardent candidate for a bilious attack can desire4 ,if you are there in the autumn1 don't forget to order ,cepes a la ,bordelaise4 ,to the above of my worthy confrere1 ,i would only add that the ,chapon ,fin is a winter garden1 somewhat resembling the ,champeaux ,restaurant in ,paris2 there are rockeries and ferns1 and a great tree-trunk runs up to the roof1 the foliage and branches being no doubt outside4 ,a speciality is the ,potage ,chapon ,fin1 a vegetable soup which is excellent4 ,the restaurant of the ,bayonne is in a great conservatory4 ,judging from the few meals ,i have eaten at each1 ,i should class the ,chapon ,fin and the ,bayonne as being equal in cookery4 ,the first floor of the ,cafe de ,bordeaux is now decorated with mirrors and white walls1 after the manner of the chic ,parisian restaurants1 but the ,englishman who wishes to drink whisky and soda there--an unholy taste in a wine country--and who demands a special brand and ,schweppe's soda1 should ask how much he is going to be charged for it before he commits himself4 ,arcachon ,of cooking at ,arcachon there is nothing in particular to be said4 ,the place has a celebrity for its oyster-beds1 and a great number of the oysters we eat in ,england have been transplanted from the bay at ,arcachon to the beds in ,british waters4 ,biarritz ,the average of cookery in the hotels at ,biarritz is very good1 for the competition is very keen1 and as money is spent by the handful in this town on the bay where the ,atlantic rolls in its breakers1 any hotel which did not provide two excellent table-d'hote meals would very soon be out of the running4 ,in the basement of the building in which is the big ,casino1 ,mons4 ,boulant's ,casino1 as the natives call it1 is a restaurant where a table-d'hote lunch and dinner are served2 but the restaurant of ,biarritz is the one which ,ritz has established on the first floor of the little ,casino1 the ,casino ,municipal1 where one breakfasts in a glazed-in verandah overlooking the ,plage and the favourite bathing-spot1 and at dinner one looks across to the illuminated terrace of the other ,casino4 ,the decoration of this restaurant is of the simplest but at the same time of the most effective kind1 being of growing bamboos which form green canopies above the tables4 ,biarritz depends but little on the surrounding country for its food1 as the ,pays ,basque gives few good things to the kitchen4 ,fish is the one excellent thing that ,biarritz itself contributes to all the menus1 and the ,friture du ,pays is always excellent4 ,here is a menu of a little dinner for three at the ,ritz4 ,the ,minestrone is an excellent ,italian soup 7which1 by the way1 ,oddenino of the ,imperial in ,london makes better than ,i have tasted it anywhere else out of ,italy72 the veal1 ,i fancy1 came from ,paris1 the ortolans from the far south3-- ,melon4 ,minestron ,milanaise4 ,friture du ,pays4 ,carre de ,veau braise aux ,cepes4 ,ortolans a la broche4 ,salade de ,romaine4 ,coupes d',entigny4 ,i have not kept any bill for this1 but ,i know that ,i regarded the total as moderate in a town where all things in ,september are at gambler's prices4 ,the ,royalty1 in the main street at ,biarritz1 is the afternoon gathering place for the young bloods1 who there drink cooling liquids through straws out of long tumblers1 while the ladies hold their parliament at tea-time in ,miremont the confectioner's4 ,marseilles ,once more ,i step down from the platform to give place to my colleague ,a4,b4 ,two of the best hotels in ,marseilles1 with restaurants attached to them1 are the ,noailles and the ,hotel du ,louvre2 the latter is owned and supervised by ,mons4 ,echenard1 who with ,mons4 ,ritz helped to create the popularity of the ,savoy ,restaurant in ,london1 and is also his coadjutor in the management of the ,carlton ,restaurant2 it is needless to remark that any cuisine that ,mons4 ,echenard takes in hand is worthy of attention4 ,mons4 ,echenard has lately acquired the ,reserve at ,marseilles--a very pretty cafe and garden about half-an-hour's drive from the ,cannebiere1 along the ,corniche ,road2 it stands in a commanding position1 with a lovely view of the bay and the surrounding mountains4 ,it has furnished apartments attached to it1 and for any one having to stay at ,marseilles1 either while waiting for the ,messageries ,maritimes liner or for the arrival of a yacht1 it is infinitely preferable to the hot1 stuffy town1 and would be an excellent winter quarter4 ,like many similar seaside cafes abroad1 it has its own parc au coquillages or shell-fish tanks1 and you here get the world-renowned ,bouillabaisse in perfection4 ,the best shell-fish are the praires and the clovisses1 about the same size as walnuts or little neck clams2 the clovisses are the largest1 and rather take the place of oysters when the latter are not in season1 in the same way the clam does in ,america2 others are mussels1 oysters1 and langoustes4 ,langoustes differ as much as a skinny fowl from a ,poularde de ,mans4 ,mons4 ,echenard gets his from ,corsica1 and you then learn how they can vary4 ,he has also a ,poularde ,reserve en ,cocotte ,raviolis1 which is a dish to be remembered2 and a small fat sole caught between ,hyeres and ,toulon is not to be despised4 ,i am free to confess that the ,tutti ,frutti de la ,mare1 or stew consisting of the many lovely and variegated small fish that are caught in those waters1 has no charm for me4 ,personally1 ,i would as soon eat a surprise packet of pins1 but of course1 chacun a son gout4 ,anyway1 if you are stranded in ,marseilles for an afternoon or longer1 you could go to many a worse place than the ,reserve4 ,i suppose it is not necessary for me to add to ,a4,b4's discourse any description of what ,bouillabaisse is1 or how the ,southerners firmly believe that this dish cannot be properly made except of the fish that swim in the ,mediterranean1 the rascaz1 a little fellow all head and eyes1 being an essential in the savoury stew1 along with the eel1 the lobster1 the dory1 the mackerel1 and the girelle4 ,thackeray has sung the ballad of the dish as he used to eat it1 and his recette1 because it is poetry1 is accepted1 though it is but the fresh-water edition of the stew4 ,if you do not like oil1 garlic1 and saffron1 which all come into its composition1 give it a wide berth4 ,the ,brandade1 which is a cod-fish stew and a regular fisherman's dish1 is by no means to be despised4 ,before leaving the subject of ,marseilles and its cookery and restaurants1 let me record the verdict of a true gourmet and ,englishman who always lives the winter through in ,marseilles4 ,he writes me that in ,marseilles itself there are no restaurants worthy of the name1 the best being ,isnard's 7,hotel des ,phoceens71 ,rue ,thubaneau1 and another good one that of the ,hotel d',orleans1 ,rue ,vacon1 where the proprietor and the cook are brothers and charming people4 ,those adventurous souls who wish to eat the fry of sea-urchins and other highly savoury dishes1 with strange shell-fish and other extraordinary denizens of the deep as their foundation1 should go to ,bregaillon's at the ,vieux ,port4 ,it is necessary to have a liking for garlic and a nose that fears no smells for this adventure2 but if you bring your courage to the sticking point1 order a dozen oursins1 a petit poelon1 which is a tournedos in a casserole1 and a grive4 ,cassis is the white wine of the house2 and it has some good ,chateau ,neuf de ,pape4 ,cannes ,cannes is the first important town of the ,riviera that the gourmet flying south comes to1 and at ,cannes he will find a typical ,riviera restaurant4 ,the ,reserve at ,cannes consists of one glassed-in shelter and another smaller building on the rocks1 which juts out into the sea from the elbow of the ,promenade de la ,croisette4 ,the spray of the wavelets set up by the breeze splash up against the glass1 and to one side are the ,iles des ,lerins1 ,st-,marguerite1 and ,st-,honorat1 where the liqueur ,lerina is made1 shining on the deep blue sea1 and to the other the purple ,montagnes de l',esterel stand up with a wonderful jagged edge against the sky4 ,amongst the rocks on which the building of the restaurant stand are tanks1 and in these swim fish1 large and small1 the fine lazy dorades and the lively little sea-gudgeon4 ,one of the amusements of the place is that the breakfasters fish out with a net the little fishes which are to form a friture1 or point out the bigger victim which they will presently eat for their meal4 ,the cooking is simple and good1 and with fish that thirty minutes before were swimming in the green water1 an omelette1 a simple dish of meat1 and a pint of ,cerons1 or other white wine1 a man may breakfast in the highest content looking at some of the sunniest scenes in the world4 ,there is always some little band of ,italian musicians playing and singing at the ,reserve1 and though in ,london one would vote them a nuisance1 at ,cannes the music seems to fit in with the lazy pleasure of breakfasting almost upon the waves1 and the throaty tenor who has been singing of ,santa ,lucia gets a lining of francs to his hat4 ,most of the crowned heads who make holiday at ,cannes have taken their breakfast often enough in the little glass summer-house1 but the prices are in no way alarming4 ,the ladies gather at tea-time at the white building1 where ,mme4 ,rumplemayer sells cakes and tea and coffee2 and the ,gallia also has a clientele of tea-drinkers1 for whose benefit the band plays of an afternoon4 ,nice ,at ,nice the ,london ,house is one of the classical restaurants of ,france1 and one may talk of it in comparison with the great houses of the boulevards of the capital4 ,i am bound to confess that the great salon with its painted panels1 its buffet and its skylight screened by an awning1 is not a lively room2 but the attendance is quiet1 soft-footed1 and unhurried1 and the cooking is distinctly good4 ,it has of course its specialites du maison1 and classical dishes have been invented within its walls2 but the man who wants to take his wife out to dine1 and who is prepared to pay a couple of sovereigns for the meal1 will find that he need not exceed that amount4 ,here is the menu of a little dinner for two which ,i ordered last winter at the restaurant4 ,with a pint of white wine1 a pint of champagne1 a liqueur1 and two cups of coffee1 my bill was #df francs4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,potage ,lamballe4 ,friture de ,goujons4 ,longe de veau aux ,celeris4 ,gelinotte a la ,casserole4 ,salade ,romaine et ,concombre4 ,dessert4 ,the little ,restaurant ,francais1 on the ,promenade des ,anglais1 is one of the cheeriest places possible to breakfast at on a sunny morning4 ,in the garden are palm-trees1 and the tables are further shaded by great pink and white umbrellas4 ,a scarlet-coated band of ,hungarians plays inoffensive music under the verandah of the house1 and the page and the chasseur water the road before the garden constantly with a fire-hose1 in order that the motor-cars which go rushing past shall not smother the breakfast-eaters with dust4 ,broiled eggs and asparagus points1 a trout fresh from the river ,loup--if such a fish is on the bill of fare--and some tiny bird either roasted or en casserole1 with some light white wine1 is a suitable meal to be eaten in this garden of a doll's-house restaurant4 ,the house has its history4 ,it was formerly the ,villa ,wuertz ,dundas1 where so many art treasures were collected in the salons ,louis ,,xv4 and ,,xvi4 ,mons4 ,emile ,favre1 the new proprietor1 has added considerably to the old house4 ,the ,restaurant du ,helder1 the white building in the arcade of the big ,place1 has good cookery1 and its table-d'hote meals are excellent4 ,on regatta days the world of fashion occupies all the tables of the restaurant on the jetee at breakfast-time4 ,two resorts patronised by the young sparks of ,nice are the ,regence and the ,garden ,bar4 ,the subjoined menu shows what the ,regence can do when a big dinner is given there3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre varies4 ,consomme a la d',orleans4 ,bouchees ,montglas4 ,filets de soles ,joinville4 ,piece de boeuf ,renaissance4 ,chaud-froid de foie gras4 ,petits pois a la ,francaise4 ,faisans de ,boheme a la broche4 ,salade nicoise4 ,mousse ,regence4 ,patisserie4 ,dessert4 ,the great confectioner's shop in the ,place ,massena and the ,casino ,municipal are always crowded with ladies at tea-time4 ,beaulieu ,at ,beaulieu the ,restaurant de la ,reserve is famous4 ,it is just a convenient distance for a drive from ,monte ,carlo1 and the world and the half-world drive or motor out there from the town on the rock and sit at adjacent tables in the verandah without showing any objection one to the other4 ,the restaurant is a little white building in a garden1 with a long platform built out over the sea1 so that breakfasting one looks right down upon a blue depth of water4 ,there are tables inside the building1 but the early-comers and those wise people who have telephoned for tables take those in the verandah if the day be sunny4 ,there are tanks into which the water runs in and out with each little wave and in these are the ,marennes oysters and other shell-fish4 ,oysters1 a ,mostelle a l',anglaise--,mostelle being the especial fish of this part of the world--and some tiny bit of meat is the breakfast ,i generally order at the ,beaulieu ,reserve2 but the cook is capable of high flights1 and ,i have seen most elaborate meals well served4 ,the proprietors are two ,italians who also own the neighbouring hotel1 and who take their cook with them to ,aix-les-,bains when they migrate during the summer to the restaurant of one of the casinos there4 ,a little band of ,italian singers and musicians add to the noise of this very merry little breakfasting place4 ,at ,villefranche there are two unpretentious inns where men with an unnatural craving for ,bouillabaisse go and eat it1 and return with a strong aroma of saffron and garlic accompanying them1 saying that they have partaken of the real dish1 such as the fishermen cook for themselves1 and not the stew toned down to suit civilised palates4 ,monte ,carlo ,the first time that ,i stayed for a week or so in the principality1 ,i lodged at the ,hotel du ,monte ,carlo1 on the hill below the ,post ,office4 ,it was a dingy hotel then1 not having been redecorated and brightened up as it has been now2 but it had the supreme attraction to a lieutenant in a marching regiment of being cheap4 ,when the first day at dinner ,i cast my eye down the wine-list1 ,i found amongst the clarets wines of the great vintage years at extraordinarily low prices1 and in surprise ,i asked the reason4 ,the manager explained to me that the hotel was in the early days used as a casino1 and that the wines formed part of the cellar of the proprietor--whether ,mons4 ,blanc1 or another1 ,i do not remember4 ,most of them were too old to bear removal to ,paris1 and they were put down on the wine-list at ridiculously low prices in order to get rid of them1 for1 as the manager said1 ,in ,monte ,carlo the winners drink nothing but champagne1 the losers water or whisky and soda4 ,so it is4 ,in ,monte ,carlo1 when a man has won1 he wants the very best of everything1 and does not mind what he pays for it2 when he has lost he has no appetite1 and grudges the money he pays for a chop in the grill-room of the ,cafe de ,paris4 ,the prices at the restaurants are nicely adapted to the purses of the winners2 and there is no place in the world where it is more necessary to order with discrimination and to ask questions as to prices4 ,at ,monte ,carlo it is the custom to entirely disassociate your lodging from your feeding1 and you may stay at one hotel and habitually feed at the restaurant of another without the proprietor of the first being at all unhappy4 ,ciro's in the arcade is a restaurant only1 and is very smart and not at all cheap4 ,a story is told that an ,englishman1 new to ,monte ,carlo and its ways1 asked the liveried porter outside ,ciro's whether it was a cheap restaurant4 ,not exactly cheap1 said the ,machiavelian servitor1 but really very cheap for what you get here4 ,on a fine day grand duchesses and the haute cocotterie beseech ,ciro to reserve tables for them on the balcony looking out on the sea1 and unless you are a person of great importance or notoriety1 or of infinite push1 you will find yourself relegated to a place inside the restaurant4 ,at dinner there is not so much competition4 ,ciro himself is a little ,italian1 who speaks broken ,english and has a sense of humour which carries him over all difficulties4 ,every day brings some fresh story concerning the little man1 and a typical one is his comforting assurance to some one who complained of an overcharge for butter4 ,alla right said ,ciro complacently1 ,i take him off your bill and charge him to the ,grand ,duke4 ,he not mind4 ,the joke is sometimes against ,ciro1 as when1 anxious to have all possible luxuries for a great ,british personage who was going to dine at the restaurant1 and knowing that plover's eggs are much esteemed in ,england1 he obtained some of the eggs1 cooked them1 and served them hot4 ,ciro's ,restaurant originally was where his bar now is2 but when the ,cafe ,riche1 almost next door1 was sold1 he bought it1 redecorated it1 and transferred his restaurant to the new and more gorgeous premises1 putting his brother ,salvatore--who1 poor fellow1 has since died--in charge of the bar which he established in his old quarters4 ,i cannot put my hand on the menu of any of the many breakfasts ,i have eaten at ,ciro's1 so ,i borrow a typical menu from ,v4,b's4 interesting little book ,ten ,days at ,monte ,carlo4 ,he and three friends ate and drank this at dejeuner3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre varies4 ,oeufs poches ,grand ,duc4 ,mostelle a l',anglaise4 ,volaille en ,casserole a la ,fermiere4 ,patisserie4 ,fromage4 ,cafe4 #a ,magnum ,carbonnieux #ahia4 ,fine ,champagne #ahdf4 ,this feast cost #fa francs4 ,the ,mostelle1 as ,i have previously mentioned1 is the special fish of this part of the coast4 ,it is as delicate as a whiting1 and is split open1 fried1 and served with bread crumbs and an over-sufficiency of melted butter4 ,at ,monte ,carlo one is given everything that can be imported and which is expensive4 ,the salmon comes from ,scotland or ,sweden1 and most of the other material for the feasts is sent down daily from ,paris4 ,the thrushes from ,corsica1 and some very good asparagus from ,genoa or ,rocbrune1 are about the only provisions which come from the neighbourhood1 except of course the fish1 which is plentiful and excellent4 ,i was last spring entrusted with the ordering of a dinner for six at the restaurant of the ,hotel de ,paris1 the most frequented of all the dining places at ,monte ,carlo1 and ,i told ,mons4 ,fleury1 the manager1 that ,i wanted as much local colour introduced into it as possible4 ,he referred me to the chef1 and between us we drew up this menu1 which certainly has something of the sunny south about it3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre et ,caviar frais4 ,creme de ,langoustines4 ,friture de ,nonnats4 ,selle d',agneau aux ,primeurs4 ,becassines roties4 ,salade ,nicoise4 ,asperges de ,genes4 ,sauce ,mousseline4 ,dessert4 ,,vins4 #a bottle ,barsac4 #c bottles ,pommery ,vin ,nature #ahib4 ,to crown this feast we had some of the very old brandy1 a treasure of the house1 which added #fj francs to the bill4 ,the total was #cfc francs #aj centimes4 ,in this dinner the ,creme de ,langoustines was excellent1 a most delightful bisque4 ,the nonnats are the small fry of the bay1 smaller far than whitebait1 and are delicious to eat4 ,they are perhaps more suitable for breakfast than for a dinner of ceremony1 and had ,i not yearned for local colour ,i should have ordered the ,filets de ,sole ,egyptiennes in little paper coffins which look like mummy cases1 a dish which is one of the specialities of the house4 ,dining at the ,hotel de ,paris one pays in comfort for its popularity1 for on a crowded night the tables in the big dining-room are put so close together that there is hardly room for the waiters to move between them1 and the noise of the conversation rises to a roar through which the violins of the band outside the door can barely be heard4 ,bachelier1 the maitre-d'hotel at the ,francais1 a disciple of ,francois1 is quite one of the foremost men of his calling4 ,the restaurant of the ,grand ,hotel1 where ,,mm4 ,noel and ,pattard themselves see to the comfort of their guests1 is also a fashionable dining place4 ,i first tasted the ,sole ,waleska1 with its delicate flavouring of ,parmesan1 at the ,grand ,hotel many years ago1 and it has always been one of the special dishes of the house4 ,poularde a la ,santos ,dumont is another speciality4 ,this is a menu of a dinner for six given at the ,grand1 as a return for the one quoted above as a product of the ,hotel de ,paris3-- ,creme ,livonienne4 ,filets de ,sole ,waleska4 ,baron de ,pauillac a la ,broche4 ,puree de ,champignons4 ,petits ,pois ,nouveaux4 ,merles de ,corse4 ,salade4 ,asperges4 ,sauce ,mousseline4 ,souffle du ,parmesan4 ,friandises4 ,the ,hermitage1 in which ,,mm4 ,benoit and ,fourault are interested1 shares the rush of fashionable diners with ,ciro and the ,paris and ,grand1 but ,i cannot speak by personal knowledge of its dinners4 ,there are other restaurants not so expensive as the ones ,i have written of1 and further up the hill1 which can give one a most admirable dinner4 ,the ,helder is one of the restaurants where the men who have to live all their life at ,monte ,carlo often breakfast and dine1 and ,aubanel's ,restaurant1 the ,princess'1 which one of the great stars of the ,opera has very regularly patronised1 deserves a special good word4 ,the ,restaurant ,re1 which was originally a fish and oyster shop1 but which is now a restaurant with fish as its speciality1 is also an excellent place for men of moderate means4 ,madame ,re learned the art of the kitchen at the ,reserve at ,marseilles1 and she knows as much about the cooking of fish as any woman in the world4 ,when it came to my turn in the interchange of dinners for six to provide a feast1 ,i went to ,madame ,re and asked her to give me a fish dinner1 and to keep it as distinctive as possible of the principality1 and she at once saw what ,i wanted and entered into the spirit of it4 ,she met me on the evening of the feast with a sorrowful expression on her handsome face1 for she had sent a fisherman out very early in the morning into the bay to catch some of the little sea hedgehogs which were to form one course1 but he had come back empty-handed4 ,the menu stood as under1 and we none of us missed the hedgehogs3-- ,canape de ,nonnats4 ,soupe de poisson ,monegasque4 ,supions en ,buisson4 ,dorade ,bonne ,femme4 ,volaille ,rotie4 ,langouste ,parisienne4 ,asperges ,vinaigrette4 ,dessert4 ,the ,soupe ,monegasque had a reminiscence in it of ,bouillabaisse1 but it was not too insistent2 the supions were octopi1 but delicate little gelatinous fellows1 not leathery1 as the ,italian ones sometimes are2 the dorade was a splendid fish1 and though ,i fancy the langouste had come from northern waters and not from the bay1 it was beautifully fresh and a monster of its kind4 ,the ,riviera ,palace has a restaurant to which many people come to breakfast1 high above ,monte ,carlo and its heat1 and the cook is a very good one4 ,any mad ,englishman who like myself takes long walks in the morning1 will find the restaurant at the ,la ,turbie terminus of the mountain railway a pleasant place at which to eat early breakfast2 and the view from the terrace1 where one munches one's petit pain and drinks one's coffee and milk1 with an orange tree on either side of the table1 is a superb one4 ,after the tables are closed the big room at the ,cafe de ,paris in ,monte ,carlo fills up with those who require supper or a night cap before going home2 and though a sprinkling of ladies may be seen there1 the half-world much preponderates4 ,the night-birds finish the evening at the ,festa1 some distance up the hill1 where two bands play1 and there is some dancing1 and where the lights are not put out until the small hours are growing into big ones4 ,mentone ,mentone has a splendid tea-shop at ,rumpelmayer's1 and a pleasant restaurant at which to lunch is that of the ,winter ,palace4 ,many people drive from ,monte ,carlo to lunch or take tea at the ,cap ,martin ,hotel1 and it is a pleasant place with a splendid view from the great terrace1 though sometimes people not staying in the hotel complain of the slowness of the attendance there4 ,the ,pyrenees ,as a gastronomic guide to the ,pyrenees ,i cannot do better than introduce to you my very good friend ,c4,p41 who knows that part of the world as well as any native1 and whose taste is unimpeachable4 ,i therefore stand down and let him speak for himself3-- ,throughout the ,pyrenees1 in nine hotels out of ten1 you can obtain a decently cooked luncheon or dinner--neither above nor below the average4 ,but in order to depart from the beaten track of the ordinary menu1 abandon all hypocrisy1 oh1 intelligent traveller6 and do not pretend that you can turn a fastidious nose away from the seductions of the burnt onion and the garlic clove1 the foundations upon which rests the whole edifice of ,pyrenean cooking4 ,pharisaical density would be only wasting time1 for these two vegetables will be your constant companions so soon as you decide to sample the cuisine bourgeoise of the country4 ,you should on no account fail to venture on this voyage of exploration1 as some of the dishes are excellent1 all of them interesting1 and1 once tasted1 never to be forgotten4 ,to attempt to enumerate them all1 to describe them minutely1 or to give any account of their preparation1 hardly comes within the scope of these notes4 ,suffice it to give the names of two or three4 ,first comes the ,garbure1 a kind of thick vegetable soup containing ,heaven knows what ingredients1 but all the same sure to please you4 ,next comes the ,confit d',oie1 a sort of goose stew1 utterly unlike anything you have tasted before1 but not without its merits4 ,next1 the ,cotelettes d',izard marine may interest you4 ,the izard1 or chamois of the ,pyrenees1 has been marine or soaked for some time in wine1 vinegar1 bay leaves1 and other herbs4 ,it thus acquires a distinctive and novel flavour4 ,don't forget the ,ragout and the ,poulet1 either chasseur or else paysanne2 nor yet the ,pie de ,mars if in season4 ,by way of fish you will always find the trout delicious1 either fried or else a la meuniere4 7,don't miss the alose if you are at ,pau47 ,lastly1 the ,pyrenean pates1 ,gibier and ,foie de ,canard1 are justly celebrated1 and can more than hold their own in friendly and patriotic rivalry with any of those purporting to come from ,strasbourg or ,nancy4 ,at first acquaintance you will not care much for pic-a-pou or the wine of the country1 but with patience you may possibly learn to appreciate the ,vin de ,jurancon4 ,tradition has it that ,henri ,quatre's nurses preferred to give this form of nourishment rather than the ,mellin's ,food of the time4 ,perhaps babies were differently constituted in those days4 ,in any case you will always be able to get a good bottle of claret1 bearing the name of some first-class ,bordeaux firm1 such as ,johnson1 ,barton ,guestier1 or ,luze1 etc4 ,if you are lucky enough to obtain a glass of genuine old ,armagnac1 you will probably rank it1 as a liqueur1 very nearly as high as any cognac you have ever tasted4 ,a word of warning6 ,don't be too eager to order whisky and soda4 ,the ,scotch is not of uniform quality4 ,so much for eatables and drinkables4 ,a few hints now as to where you might care to lunch or dine4 ,pau ,to begin with ,pau4 ,there is really a great artist there--a man whose sole hobby is his kitchen1 and who1 if he chooses1 can send you up a dinner second to none4 ,his name is ,guichard4 ,go and have a talk with him4 ,hear what he has to say on the fond-de-cuisine theory4 ,let him arrange your menu and await the result with confidence4 ,that confidence will not be misplaced4 ,for purely local dishes of the cuisine-bourgeoise type1 you might try a meal at the ,hotel de la ,poste4 ,but for general comfort the ,english ,club stands easily first4 ,the coffee-room is run admirably1 and as for wine and cigars1 they are as good as money can buy4 ,a strong remark1 eh8 ,but true1 nevertheless4 ,for a supper after the play you might give a trial to the restaurant at the new ,palais d',hiver4 ,other restaurants are at the ,hotel de ,france and the ,hotel ,gassion4 ,for confectionery1 cakes1 candied fruits1 etc41 ,luc or ,seghin will be found quite ,a#a4 ,whilst for five o'clock tea1 ,madame ,bouzoum has deservedly gained a reputation as great as that of ,rumpelmayer on the ,riviera4 ,but again a word of warning6 ,be discreet as to repeating any local tittle-tattle you may possibly overhear4 ,so much for ,pau4 ,throughout the mountain resorts of the ,pyrenees1 such as ,luchon--,bagneres de ,bigorre1 ,gavarnie1 ,st-,sauveur2 ,cauterets--,eaux ,bonnes1 ,eaux ,chaudes1 ,oloron1 etc41 you can always1 as was stated previously1 rely upon getting an averagely well-served luncheon or dinner1 and nothing more--trout and chicken1 although excellent1 being inevitable4 ,but there is one splendid and notable exception1 viz41 the ,hotel de ,france at ,argeles-,gazost1 kept by ,joseph ,peyrafitte1 known to his intimates as ,papa4 ,in his way he is as great an artist as the aforementioned ,guichard2 the main difference between the methods of the two professors being that the latter's art is influenced by the traditions of the ,parisian school1 while the former is more of an impressionist1 and does not hesitate to introduce local colour with broad effects1--merely a question of taste after all4 ,for this reason you should not fail to pay a visit to ,argeles to make the acquaintance of ,monsieur ,peyrafitte4 ,ask him to give you a luncheon such as he supplies to the golf club of which ,lord ,kilmaine is president1 and for dinner 7being always mindful of the value of local colour7 consult him1 over a glass of ,quinquina and vermouth1 as to some of the dishes mentioned earlier in this article4 ,you won't regret your visit4 ,in conclusion1 should you find yourself anywhere near ,lourdes at the time of the ,pelerinage ,national1 go and dine at one of the principal hotels there--say the ,hotel de la ,grotte4 ,you will not dine either well or comfortably1 the pandemonium being indescribable4 ,but you will have gained an experience which you will not readily forget4 ,adishat6 ,provence ,any one who is making a leisurely journey from ,marseilles to the ,roman cities of ,provence1 and who halts by the way at ,martigues1 the ,venice of ,provence should breakfast at the ,hotel ,chabas2 and if ,m4 ,paul ,chabas is still in the land of the living1 as ,i trust he is1 and you can persuade him--telling him that he is the best cook in ,provence1 which he is--to make you some of the ,provencal dishes1 the ,bouillabaisse1 or that excellent vol-au-vent which they call a ,tourte in the land of ,tartaria1 or the ,sou ,fassu1 which is a cabbage stuffed with a most savoury mixture of vegetable and meat1 you will be fortunate4 ,at ,arles the ,hotel ,forum has a cook who is a credit to his native province2 but if you stay in the house1 make sure that you have a room to the front1 otherwise you may only look into the well-like covered court of the house4 ,at ,tarascon1 if you feel inclined to hunt for the imaginary home of the imaginary hero1 a great man whom the town repudiates as having been invented in order that the world should be amused at its expense1 take your meal at the ,hotel des ,empereurs and ask for ,m4 ,andrieu4 ,at ,avignon the ,hotel de l',europe is a very old-fashioned house with old furniture in the rooms1 old latches to the doors4 ,the servants seem to have caught the spirit of the place1 and there is one old servitor1 still1 ,i trust1 alive1 who might have been the model for all the faithful old servants in the plays of the ,comedie ,francaise4 ,the house is kept by an old lady2 the cook is a man4 ,several people of my acquaintance choose ,avignon as their halting-place on their way to the ,riviera because of the quaintness of the old hotel and of the excellence of its cuisine4 ,a breakfast on the ,isle de ,barthelasse1 when the mistral is not blowing1 is one of the holiday treats of the inhabitants of the town4 ,at ,remoulins the old ,ledenon wine at the one hotel in the place is worth a note4 ,at ,st-,remy1 ,m4 ,teston1 who keeps the hotel named after him1 is an excellent cook4 ,at ,nimes1 at the ,hotel du ,cheval ,blanc1 there used to be some excellent old ,armagnac brandy1 and probably some of it still remains4 ,cure ,places ,most of the ,french cure places are for invalids and invalids only1 and the gourmet who goes to them has to lay aside his critical faculties and to be content with the simplest fare1 well or indifferently cooked1 according to his choice of an hotel4 ,aix-les-,bains ,the big ,savoy town of baths is the principal exception to the rule1 for the baccarat in the two ,casinos draws all the big gamblers in ,europe to the place1 and one half of ,aix-les-,bains goes to bed about the time that the other half is being carried in rough sedan chairs to be parboiled and massaged4 ,in the late spring there is an exodus from the ,riviera to ,aix-les-,bains2 doctors1 maitres d'hotel musicians1 lawyers1 fly-men1 waiters move into summer quarters2 and any one who has time to spare1 and enjoys a three-day drive through beautiful scenery1 might well do worse than make a bargain with a fly-man for the trip from the coast to the town on the banks of the lake4 ,when a fly-man does not secure a monsieur as a passenger1 he as often as not drives a brace of friendly waiters over just for company sake4 ,thus any gourmet who knows his ,riviera finds himself surrounded by friendly faces at ,aix-les-,bains4 ,there are excellent restaurants in some of the larger hotels1 and you can dine in a garden1 under lanterns lit by electric light1 or on a glassed-in terrace whence a glimpse of the lake of ,le ,bourget under the moon may be obtained2 and there are at the big ,casino1 the ,cercle as it is called1 and at the smaller one1 the ,ville des ,fleurs1 quite excellent restaurants4 ,these two restaurants are managed by first-class men from the ,riviera--the proprietors of the ,london ,house at ,nice and of the ,reserve at ,beaulieu1 were1 ,i believe1 last year the men in command--and the ,king of ,greece1 who is a gourmet of the first water1 sets a praiseworthy example when he is at ,aix of dining one day at the ,cercle and the next at the ,villa4 ,the prices are ,riviera prices and the cooking ,riviera cooking4 ,the ,anglo-,american bar1 nearly opposite the principal entrance to the ,cercle1 a bar where a whisky and soda costs two francs1 always has its tiny dining-room crowded4 ,durret's1 also opposite the ,cercle1 a small restaurant1 is good and cheap4 ,there are half-a-dozen little restaurants in the street running down to the station1 but the sampling of the most likely looking one did not encourage me to try any further experiments4 ,to keep up the illusion that ,aix-les-,bains is a part of the ,riviera1 there is a ,rumpelmayer cake-shop within two minutes' walk of the ,villa des ,fleurs4 ,many of the excursions from ,aix have a little restaurant as the point to be reached4 ,at ,grand ,port1 the fishing village on the borders of the lake of ,le ,bourget1 there is a pleasant house to breakfast at1 the ,beaurivage1 with a garden from which an excellent view of the lake and the little bathing place can be obtained4 ,they make a ,bouillabaisse of fresh-water fish at this restaurant which is well worth eating and which is generally the ,friday fare there4 ,at ,chambotte1 where there is a fine view of the lake1 ,lansard has a hotel and restaurant4 ,at ,marlioz1 near the race-course and an inhalation and bathing establishment1 the pretty ladies of ,aix often call a halt to breakfast1 ,ecrevisses ,bordelaises being a speciality4 ,at one of the little mountain inns1 ,i fancy that of ,la ,chambotte1 the proprietor has married a ,scotch wife1 and her excellent cakes1 made after the manner of her fatherland1 come as a surprise to the ,french tourists4 ,the chalets at the summit of the ,grand ,revard belong1 ,i believe1 to ,mme4 ,ritz1 wife of the ,emperor of ,hotels1 and the feeding there naturally is excellent4 ,most people who go a trip to the ,lac d',annecy breakfast on the boat1 though ,i believe there is a fair breakfast to be obtained at the ,angleterre4 ,on the boat a very ample meal is provided--the trout generally being excellent--which occupies the attention of the intelligent voyager during the whole of the time that he is supposed to be looking at waterfalls1 castles1 peaks1 and picturesque villages4 ,vichy ,outside the hotels1 the restaurants attached to which give in most cases a good table-d'hote dinner for six francs and a dejeuner for four1 there are but few restaurants1 for most people who come to ,vichy live en pension1 making a bargain with their hotel for their food for so much a day1 a bargain which does not encourage them to go outside and take their meals4 ,the ,restauration1 in the park close to the ,casino1 is a restaurant as well as a cafe1 and is amusing in the evening4 ,there are several small restaurants in the environs of ,vichy4 ,in the valleys of the ,sichon and the ,jolan1 two streams which join near the village of ,cusset and then flow into the ,allier1 are two little restaurants1 each to be reached by a carriage road4 ,both the ,restaurant les ,malavaux near the ruins1 and the ,restaurant de l',ardoisiere near the ,cascade of ,gourre-,saillant1 have their dishes1 each of them making a speciality of trout and crayfish from the little river that flows hard by4 ,at the ,montagne ,verte1 whence a fine view of the valley of the ,allier is obtainable1 and at one or two other of the places to which walks and drives are taken1 there are cafes and inns where decent food is obtainable4 ,various ,men who know shake their heads when you ask them whether there is good food obtainable outside the hotels at ,royat and ,la ,bourboule1 but ,i have a pleasant memory of an excellent dinner with good bourgeois cookery at ,hugon's in the ,rue ,royale of the neighbouring town of ,clermont-,ferrand4 ,at ,contrexeville ,i am told that the wise man finding his food good in his hotel1 returns thanks and does not go prospecting elsewhere4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,belgian ,,towns ,the food of the country--,antwerp--,spa--,bruges--,osten de4 ,i1 the ,editor1 cannot do better in commencing this chapter than to introduce you to ,h4,l41 a litterateur and a fin gourmet1 living in ,belgium1 who has written the notes on the food of the country on ,antwerp and ,spa1 and to whom ,i am indebted for the entire succeeding chapter on the ,brussels' restaurants4 ,the ,food of the ,country ,the ,belgian is a big eater and a bird-eater4 ,as a rule1 in ,belgium the restaurant that can put forth the longest menu will attract the most customers4 ,there are people in ,brussels who regularly travel out to ,tirlemont1 a little ,flemish town nearly twenty miles away1 to partake of a famous table-d'hote dinner to which the guests sit down at one o'clock1 and from which they seldom rise before five4 ,the following is a specimen carte of one of these ,gargantuan gorges served in ,december4 ,huitres de ,burnham4 ,potage ,oxtail4 ,saumon de ,hollande a la ,russe4 ,bouchees a la ,reine4 ,chevreuil ,diane ,chasseresse4 ,becasses bardees sur ,canape4 ,tete de veau en ,tortue4 ,surprises ,grazilla 7a ,sorbet74 ,pluviers dores poire au vin4 ,jambonneau au ,madere4 ,petites feves de ,marais a la ,creme4 ,salmis de ,caneton ,sauvage4 ,faisan de ,boheme4 ,salade de ,saison4 ,dinde truffee ,mayonnaise4 ,glace ,vanillee4 ,fruits4 ,gateaux4 ,dessert4 ,all this for five francs6 with a bottle of ,burgundy to wash it down1 at any price from a crown to a pound4 ,one thing that can safely be said about the ,belgian restaurants is that a good bottle of ,burgundy can nearly always be bought in both town and country4 ,it is often told that the best ,burgundy in the world is to be found in ,belgian cellars4 ,whether this is a reputation maintained in honour of the ,dukes of ,burgundy who once ruled the land1 or whether the good quality of the wine is due to the peculiar sandy soil1 which permits of an unvarying temperature in the cellars1 ,i will leave others to determine1 but the fact remains that from a ,beaujolais at #b francs #ej centimes to a ,richebourg at #bj francs1 the ,burgundy offered to the traveller in ,belgium is generally unimpeachable4 ,ghent is another town famous for its big feasts4 ,the market dinner on ,friday at the ,hotel de la ,poste is often quoted as a marvellous spread1 but the best restaurant in ,ghent is undoubtedly ,mottez's1 on the ,avenue ,place d',armes4 ,this is an old-fashioned place with no appearance of a restaurant outside1 and a stranger would easily pass it by4 ,here one dines both a la carte and at table-d'hote2 the table-d'hote is well worth trying1 though some of the dishes can be safely passed over4 ,the wines at ,mottez's are very good1 and some special old ,flemish beer in bottles should be asked for4 ,a great local dish is ,hochepot ,gantois1 a mixture of pork1 sausages1 and vegetables which only the very hungry or the very daring should experiment upon at a strange place4 ,flemish cooking as a rule is fat and porky1 and there is a dish often seen on the carte called ,choesels a la ,bruxelloise1 which is considered a delicacy by the natives1 and it is supposed to be a hash cooked in sherry or marsala2 it is1 however1 a dish of mystery4 ,a plat always to be found in ,belgium 7especially in the ,flanders district71 is ,waterzoei de ,poulet1 a chicken broth served with the fowl4 ,this is usually very safe1 and any one going to ,mottez's at ,ghent should try it there4 ,carbonades ,flamandes is another ,flemish dish which1 if well done1 can be eaten without fear4 ,this is beef-steak stewed in faro1 an acid ,flemish beer1 and served with a rich brown sauce4 ,salade de ,princesses ,liegeoises is a salad made with scarlet runners mixed with little pieces of fried bacon4 ,the bacon takes the place of oil1 while the vinegar should be used with rather a heavy hand4 ,when other salads are scarce1 this makes a really toothsome dish4 ,of all the ,belgian plats1 however1 first and foremost must be placed ,grives a la ,namuroise1 which of course are only to be obtained in the autumn4 ,i have said that the ,belgian is a bird-eater1 and throughout the country every species of bird is pressed into service for the table4 ,a stranger visiting the ,ardennes will be struck by the remarkable silence of the woods1 which is caused by the wholesale destruction of the birds4 ,how the supply is kept up it is difficult to say1 but no ,belgian dinner is considered complete without a bird of some sort1 and when grives are in season1 thousands must be served daily4 ,a grive proper is a thrush1 but ,i fear that blackbirds and starlings often find their way to the casserole under the name of a grive4 ,they should be cooked with the trail1 in which mountain-ash berries are often found4 ,these give the bird a peculiar and rather bitter flavour1 but the berry that must be used in the cooking is that of the juniper plant1 which grows very plentifully in ,belgium4 ,a traveller through ,belgium in the summer or early autumn should always make a point of ordering grives at a good restaurant4 ,when grives go out of season1 we have woodcock and snipe2 and there are several houses which make a speciality of ,becasses a la fine ,champagne4 ,at ,mons and at ,liege1 and ,i think at ,charleroi also1 there is every year a woodcock feast1 just as there is an oyster feast at ,colchester4 ,at these festivities a little wax candle is placed on the table beside each guest1 so that he can take the head of his becasse and frizzle it in the flame before he attacks its brains4 ,then we have plovers and larks in any quantity1 but ,i would not like to vouch for what are often served as alouettes and mauviettes4 ,the one bird that we never get in ,belgium is grouse1 unless it is brought over specially from ,england or ,scotland4 ,it has always been found impossible to rear grouse in the country4 ,in the neighbourhood of ,spa there are great stretches of moorlands reaching almost to the ,german frontier1 covered with heather1 which look as if they would be the ideal home of the grouse4 ,here ,m4 ,barry ,herrfeldt1 of the ,chateau du ,marteau at ,spa1 a real good sportsman1 has tried his very utmost to rear grouse2 first he laid down thousands of eggs and set them under partridges1 but this proved a failure2 then he introduced young birds1 but they all died off1 and ,i think he has now given up the attempt in despair4 ,whilst speaking of partridges1 ,i ought to mention that there is no partridge in the world so plump and sweet as one shot in the neighbourhood of ,louvain1 where they feed on the beetroot cultivated for the sugar factories4 ,at a restaurant ,coq de bruyere is often served as grouse1 but this is a blackcock4 ,one last note3 outside the capital and at all but the best restaurants the ,flemish custom is to dine in the middle of the day and sup at about seven4 ,antwerp ,it is strange that a big city and seaport like ,antwerp1 which is a favourite stopping place of ,english and ,american visitors to the ,continent1 should have so few good restaurants4 ,none of the establishments near the quays can be classed as even third-rate1 and it is in the neighbourhood of the ,bourse that the best eating-houses will be found4 ,at the ,rocher de ,cancale1 usually called ,coulon's 7after the proprietor71 the cooking and the wines are everything that can be desired1 but the prices can hardly be called moderate4 ,this restaurant is situated at the corner of the ,place de ,meir and the ,rue des ,douze ,mois1 a little street leading down to the ,bourse4 ,on the ,place de ,meir itself is ,bertrand's1 another restaurant of the same high character1 which1 to the regret of its regular frequenters1 is shortly to be converted into a larger and cheaper establishment4 ,everything at ,bertrand's has always been first class1 and local people who knew the ropes could get there an excellent table-d'hote lunch for #c francs4 ,this prix fixe1 however1 was not advertised1 and the stranger eating the same meal a la carte1 would probably find his bill #aj or #ab francs without wine4 ,antwerp has a grill-room that can be highly recommended in the ,criterium1 situated on the ,avenue de ,keyser1 near the ,central ,railway ,station4 ,the ,criterium is also known as ,keller's1 and has a large ,english clientele4 ,besides chops and steaks from the grill1 there are other viands1 and a table-d'hote dinner is supplied in the middle of the day at #b francs #ej centimes4 ,the food is of the best1 while a special feature is made of ,english beers and other drinks usually sought after by the ,briton travelling abroad4 ,the restaurant at the ,zoological ,gardens is well managed and much frequented4 ,spa ,les jeux sont faits6 ,rien ne va plus4 ,it is not the cry of the croupier1 it is the proclamation of ,parliament4 ,what will happen now that the ,cercle des ,etrangers at ,spa has been closed1 in consequence of the ,belgian ,anti-gambling ,bill which came into operation on the #ast ,january #aijc1 it is difficult to say2 one thing is certain1 the hotels and restaurants will suffer1 for more people came to the pretty little town on the outskirts of the ,ardennes to try their luck at roulette or trente et quarante than to drink the iron waters at the ,pouhon and other springs1 or to take the effervescing baths and douches4 ,once upon a time1 ,spa was one of the most fashionable and most frequented watering-places in ,europe1 but gradually its glories have departed1 although its natural beauties remain4 ,of the ,spa restaurants as they exist to-day1 there is little to be said and less to be praised4 ,to tell the truth1 there is not a really first-class restaurant in the place4 ,to nearly all the springs1 which are located in easy proximity to the town1 so-called restaurants are attached1 but the patronage being intermittent and uncertain1 the choice of plats is limited1 and the service is slow and bad4 ,the ,sauveniere ,spring is nearest to the town1 but the drive there is all up-hill1 monotonous1 and dusty4 ,the ,geronstere is more prettily situated1 and is a favourite resort for luncheon during the summer season2 but unless the meal is specially ordered beforehand1 the visitor will1 as a rule1 have to be content with eggs1 beef-steaks1 or cutlets4 ,the ,tonnelet is situated on the roadside1 and the restaurant there is often uncomfortable and dusty4 ,those who make the ,tours des ,fontaines will be best advised to stop for lunch at the ,source de ,barisart1 which is situated in a most picturesque part of the woods1 #afj feet above the town1 from which it is distant about a mile4 ,the much-written-of ,promenade de ,meyerbeer is close at hand1 and a stroll beneath the trees before or after lunch will be enjoyed1 for the surroundings are charming and romantic4 ,if previous notice for a meal can be given1 so much the better3 there is probably a telephone from the town4 ,in trout time this fish should be included1 as it is caught plentifully in the district1 and is1 as a rule1 fresh and good4 ,as before said1 there is no good restaurant in the town1--excepting1 of course1 those in connection with the principal hotels1 where a table-d'hote is usually served at mid-day and in the evening4 ,the ,cafe ,restaurant attached to the ,casino is convenient1 and will be found more than sufficient now that the gaming rooms have been suppressed4 ,on the other side of the ,casino is the ,hotel d',orange1 well appointed and with a beautiful garden1 and ,m4 ,goldschmidt1 the proprietor1 looks well after his guests4 ,his dining-room has all the character of a restaurant1 being open to the outside public4 ,the company there is as a rule gay--sometimes1 it is said1 even a little too gay1 but everything is of the best and well served4 ,probably1 however1 the gourmet will find things more to his taste at the ,grand ,hotel de l',europe1 where ,m4 ,henrard ,richard always paid great attention to his cuisine4 ,although he no longer personally controls the management of ,l',europe1 the hotel is still under the direction of his family1 and retains its high reputation4 ,the following is a menu of a #f-;franc table-d'hote dinner served in ,september4 ,it has not been specially selected1 and is therefore a fair specimen3-- ,bisque d',ecrevisses4 ,brunoise a la ,royale4 ,truites ,meuniere4 ,filet de ,boeuf garni ,beaulieu4 ,ris de veau ,princesse4 ,petits pois a la ,francaise4 ,perdreaux rotis sur ,canapes4 ,glace ,vanille4 ,gaufrettes4 ,corbeille de ,fruits4 ,the wines here are good1 the ,moselle and ,rhine wines being especially cheap4 ,other hotels with restaurants attached that may be mentioned are the ,britannique 7with a fine garden in which meals are served71 the ,bellevue1 the ,flandre1 and the ,rosette4 ,the last mentioned is a small hotel attached to the ,palace of the late ,queen of the ,belgians1 and is run by ,her ,majesty's chef4 ,the meals for the ,palace were always cooked at the hotel1 and the restaurant1 though simply appointed1 has latterly been excellent in its way4 ,strangers feeding there should try and secure a table on the little glass-covered terrace in front of the hotel4 ,mention might also be made of a couple of small restaurants that have in the past been supported by the professional players at the tables4 ,one in a side street near the ,casino1 kept by a ,frenchman1 has a reputation for its cheap ,french wines2 and the ,macon1 at a franc the bottle1 is indeed drinkable4 ,at the other1 the ,limbourg1 the cooking is ,german in character and flavour4 ,both places may be recommended as wholesome and honest to people who want to get through on about #aj francs a day4 ,there is no more to be said4 ,bruges ,it always seems to me that ,bruges is the quietest city in the world4 ,at least when one sits out in the garden of the ,hotel de ,flandre1 after sampling some of the excellent old ,burgundy which reposes in its cellars1 and listens to the chimes from the brown belfry1 a feeling of perfect peace steals over one4 ,there are few hotels in ,belgium1 if any1 which have such a fine selection of ,burgundy as the ,flandre has1 and the food1 if not noticeably good1 is at all events not noticeably bad4 ,otto1 who used to be the head waiter at the ,hotel de ,flandre1 is now the proprietor of the ,hotel de ,londres in the station square2 and though the appearance of the hotel is not inviting1 he can cook a sole au gratin as well as any cook in ,belgium4 ,the table-d'hote lunch at the ,panier d',or1 in the chief square1 is very excellent for the money4 ,ostend ,i do not think that there is much to be said in favour of the restaurants of the big hotels at ,ostend4 ,one gets an imitation of a ,parisian meal at half again the ,paris price4 ,i have little doubt that the cessation of gambling will bring all the prices down at the hotels1 but during past years gamblers' prices have been asked and paid4 ,at the ,continental there is a #aj-;franc table-d'hote dinner1 much patronised1 because people know exactly what it will cost them2 and at the ,palace ,hotel there is a table-d'hote room where the food served is well cooked2 but it lacks the life and bustle of the restaurant1 and most people who go there for a meal or two revert to the restaurant with its a la carte breakfasts and dinner4 ,there is a ,chateau ,laroque in the cellars of the ,palace at #g francs a bottle which is quite excellent4 ,there is a little restaurant1 called the ,taverne ,st-,jean1 in a side street1 the ,rampe de ,flandre1 kept by an ex-head waiter from the ,restaurant ,re at ,monte ,carlo1 at which the cookery is thoroughly bourgeois1 but good of its kind and the prices low2 and there is on the quay a house1 kept by a fisherman who is the owner of several smacks1 where the explorer who does not mind surroundings redolent of the sea can get a good fried sole1 and a more than fair bottle of white wine4 ,any one who wishes to see what a ,belgian meal can be in the number of courses should go by train past ,blankenberghe1 which is a pale reflection of ,ostend1 to ,heyste1 and partake of a mid-day dinner there at one of the hotels patronised by the ,brussels tradesmen and their families1 who come to the little sea-town for change of air4 ,fifteen or sixteen plates piled in front1 or at the side of each place1 mark the number of courses to be gone through1 and most of the guests eat the meal through from soup to fruit without shirking a single course4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,brussels ,the ,savoy--,the ,epaule de ,mouton--,the ,faille ,dechiree--,the ,lion d',or--,the ,regina--,the ,helder--,the ,filet de ,sole--,wiltcher's--,justine's--,the ,etoile--,the ,belveder--,the ,cafe ,riche--,duranton's--,the ,laiterie--,miscellaneous4 ,brussels must have been a gayer city than the ,brussels of to-day when it earned the title of a little ,paris4 ,there is at the present time very little indeed of ,paris about the ,belgian capital1 and1 in the matter of restaurants1 there is a marked contrast between the two cities4 ,here the latter-day ,lucullus will have to seek in queer nooks and out-of-the-way corners to discover the best kitchens and the cellars where the wines are of the finest crus4 ,the aristocracy of ,belgium mostly dines en famille and the restaurants that cater for the middle classes are the most patronised4 ,there are1 however1 several establishments which provide for more refined tastes1 but they will not be found upon the big boulevards or the main thoroughfares4 ,four of the best restaurants in ,brussels are in two narrow little streets1 and their exteriors resemble old-fashioned ,london coffee-houses1 rather than resorts of fashion4 ,brussels is particularly destitute of smart rooms where one can sup in gay company after the opera is over4 ,until the ,savoy was opened1 we had1 in fact1 nothing beyond the ordinary restaurant with its little cabinets particuliers4 ,when ,mr4 ,arthur ,collins of ,drury ,lane was in ,brussels about a couple of years ago1 he asked me to take him one evening1 after leaving the ,scala1 to the local ,romano's4 ,we haven't such a place1 ,i explained1 but we can go to the ,helder4 ,i dined there this evening1 said ,a4,c41 it was a very good dinner1 but deadly dull2 show me something livelier4 ,we resolved to try the ,filet de ,sole thinking1 as it was close to the ,palais d',ete1 we were certain to meet some people there1 but the place was empty4 ,the fact is1 ,brussels has little night-life beyond the taverns and bars of low character1 and the only high-class supper-room is the ,savoy4 ,if a stranger came to pass a week in ,brussels1 and wanted to be shown round the restaurants1 ,i should start him with lunch at the ,savoy on ,monday morning1 and finish him off with supper at the ,savoy on the following ,sunday night1 for he would then be sure of beginning and ending well4 ,the grill is excellent1 and by no means dear4 #a franc #ge centimes is charged for a chop or steak1 including pommes de terre well served4 ,the hors-d'oeuvre are a speciality at luncheon4 ,there is great variety1 and the pickled shrimps would tickle the most jaded appetite4 ,on ,monday night ,i should send my friend to dinner at the ,epaule de ,mouton4 ,on ,tuesday1 ,i should say1 ,lunch at the ,faille ,dechiree and dine at the ,lion d',or4 ,on ,wednesday1 ,lunch at the ,regina and dine at the ,helder4 ,on ,thursday1 ,lunch at the ,filet de ,sole and dine at ,wiltcher's4 ,on ,friday1 ,lunch at ,justine's and dine at ,l',etoile4 ,on ,saturday1 ,lunch at the ,belveder and dine at the ,cafe ,riche4 ,on ,sunday1 ,lunch at ,duranton's1 and1 if it is summer time1 dine at the ,laiterie4 ,he will then have sampled all the restaurants in ,brussels that are worth troubling about1 and will be very unlucky if he has not alighted upon some dish worth remembering4 ,the ,savoy is situated in the ,rue de l',eveque1 by the side of the ,general ,post ,office4 ,it was originally a kind of offshoot from the ,american bar and grill-room of the ,grand ,hotel4 ,being done in good spirit and with good taste1 it soon acquired favour1 and at certain times in the day the premises are almost too small4 ,there are private dining-rooms upstairs1 and a restaurant on the first floor has lately been added4 ,everything is a la carte4 ,the cafe extra1 for which #ge centimes is charged1 is a speciality4 ,the manager is ,m4,a4 ,reynier who speaks ,english like an ,englishman4 ,the ,epaule de ,mouton is in the ,rue des ,harengs1 one of the little streets already alluded to1 which run from the ,grand ,place to the ,rue ,marche aux ,herbes4 ,in this street1 which is barely five yards wide1 are some of the best restaurants of the town2 but the stranger must be particular and not enter the wrong door1 as they are all huddled together1 and the names of some of the establishments are very similar4 ,there is1 for instance1 a ,gigot de ,mouton next door to the ,epaule de ,mouton1 and there is a ,filet de ,boeuf4 ,it is at the ,epaule1 however1 where the best cuisine will be found4 ,behind the door on entering a snug corner for a tete-a-tete is to be found4 ,although the title of the establishment suggests ,simpson's and a cut off the joint1 the cuisine will be found thoroughly ,french1 and everything is well and tastefully done4 ,in ordering1 it must be remembered that one plat is enough for two persons1 and this is the rule in most ,belgian restaurants4 ,the ,burgundy at ,l',epaule de ,mouton is renowned4 ,la ,faille ,dechiree is at a corner of another little street1 the ,rue ,chair et ,pain1 close by the ,rue des ,harengs4 ,the construction and decoration are quaint2 one sits in a kind of tunnel and eats ,homard a l',americaine which is a speciality of the house4 ,woodcock1 when in season1 is also a dish to be ordered here4 ,le ,lion d',or is a small establishment in the ,rue ,gretry1 and may safely be called the chic restaurant of ,brussels4 ,the salon downstairs is a perfect little bonbonniere1 and the rooms above are extremely cosy and comfy4 ,the proprietor is ,adolph ,letellier 7of course called simply ,adolph by habitues of the house71 and he is extremely popular among the young sports of the town4 ,the vrai gourmet will appreciate les plats les plus raffines on which ,adolph prides himself4 ,everything is a la carte1 prices being plainly marked4 ,they are not cheap4 ,the restaurant and rooms upstairs are open till two in the morning4 ,the ,regina is a new restaurant at the top of the town1 near the ,porte de ,namur4 ,although only opened in #aija1 it has been found necessary to enlarge the premises1 and the alterations are in progress at the moment of writing4 ,when completed1 the restaurant on the first floor will be more commodious and comfortable than it is at present4 ,it is the good kitchen that has made the reputation of the place1 and if this is maintained1 the ,regina will become one of the best patronised restaurants in ,brussels4 ,some people prefer to feed in the cafe on the ground-floor but it is best to go upstairs1 and1 if possible1 to obtain a table on the glass-covered balcony in the front1 which has a pleasant outlook on the boulevards4 ,the proprietor is ,jules2 he may have a surname but no one seems to know what it is2 to one and all he is ,jules1 a capital patron who1 having been a waiter himself1 knows how to look after the personal tastes of his customers4 ,these include the officers of the grenadiers1 the crack ,belgian regiment1 whose barracks are close by1 judges and barristers from the ,palais de ,justice1 members of the ,king's household 7the royal palace being nearly opposite71 actors from the ,moliere ,theatre1 sportsmen who foregather here on race-days1 and the better-class ,bohemians4 ,jules has also a good ,english clientele1 and makes a speciality of certain ,english dishes4 ,this is the only place on the ,continent ,i know which serves a really well-made ,irish stew4 ,the ,flemish dishes are also safe to try here4 ,the prices are very moderate1 and the plats du jour range from #a franc to #a franc #ge centimes1 each plat being enough for two persons4 ,breakfast dishes1 such as ,oeufs ,gratines aux ,crevettes and ,oeufs ,brouilles au foie de ,volaille1 are also well done here4 ,ecrevisses ,regina is a special dish of the house4 ,there are always two special plats du soir4 ,the ,medoc de la ,maison at #c francs the bottle is a ,la ,rose and is very good4 ,although the prices are low1 there is nothing of the cheap and nasty order about the place4 ,i have before me the bill of a little lunch for two served in ,december1 which can be taken as a fair specimen of the fare and the charges3-- ,huitres de ,zelande1 #a douzaine #c frs4 #a bottle ,sauterne #e ,oeufs en ,cocotte #a ,haricot de ,mouton 7plat du jour7 #a ,foie gras ,hummel #b4ej ,salade de ,laitue #a ,laitance de ,harengs #a4ej #a bottle ,medoc #c ,cafe et liqueurs #b4ej ---------- #bj4ej frs4 ,at the same time1 if one likes to lunch off a plat du jour1 with a glass of ,gruber's beer1 it can easily be done at the ,regina for less than #e francs for two persons4 ,the ,helder is in the ,rue de l',ecuyer1 near the ,opera ,house4 ,it is a smart restaurant and one dines well there4 ,it is frequented by a good class of people1 but it has no particular character of its own4 ,the proprietor is ,m4 ,dominique ,courtade1 formerly a chef1 and he should be personally consulted if a special dinner is wanted4 ,the ,pontet ,canet 7only to be had in half bottles7 should be sampled2 it is very fine4 ,the ,filet de ,sole is in the neighbourhood of the markets and close by the ,palais d',ete4 ,the proprietor is ,emile ,beaud4 ,an excellent lunch can be obtained here at a fixed price1 and one can also eat a la carte4 ,prices are lower than at most of the first-class restaurants1 but the cuisine and wines are both safe and sound4 ,the ,cantenac at #d francs is to be specially recommended1 and the ,medoc de la ,maison at about #b francs is also good4 ,there are private rooms upstairs4 ,wiltcher's1 on the ,boulevard de ,waterloo1 provides the best and cheapest table-d'hote in ,brussels4 ,the price is only #c francs1 and is wonderful value for the money4 ,the following is the menu of a dinner in ,january3-- ,consomme a la ,reine4 ,filet de ,sole a la ,normande4 ,quartier d',agneau4 ,mint ,sauce a l',anglaise4 ,epinards a la ,creme4 ,poularde de ,bruxelles en ,cocotte4 ,croquettes de ,pommes de ,terre4 ,gangas du ,japon a la ,broche4 ,compote de ,mirabelles4 ,salade de ,laitue4 ,glace ,arlequin4 ,biscuits de ,reims4 ,cafe4 ,in old ,mr4 ,wiltcher's time a good many people came from outside for the excellent food here provided1 but now so many families reside all the year round in the hotel1 that it is difficult to get a table for dinner when it is not ordered beforehand4 ,no matter what time of the year it is1 there is always poultry and game on ,wiltcher's carte1 and one sometimes meets a strange bird here4 ,gangas is a ,japanese partridge4 ,the birds migrate to ,northern ,africa in winter and often cross to ,spain1 where they are caught in large numbers4 ,the plumage of the gangas is very beautiful and the flesh is excellent eating4 ,the outarde1 or little bustard1 is often to be had at ,wiltcher's1 and it is the only place at which ,i have eaten the great bustard1 whose flesh is very much like a turkey's4 ,white pheasant is another bird ,i remember here4 ,excepting in its plumage1 it in no way differs from the ordinary pheasant4 ,a feature of ,wiltcher's dinner is that no fruit is ever included in the menu1 although coffee is always served4 ,the story goes that ,wiltcher the ,first1 who took great pride in his table1 found it during one winter time almost impossible to give anything else as dessert beyond apples1 oranges1 pears1 and nuts1 there being no other fruit on the market4 ,one day some diners rudely complained1 and insisted on a change1 expecting perhaps that pineapple should be included in a dinner at this price4 ,you wish a change in the dessert1 ,i hear1 said ,mr4 ,wiltcher1 in the suave and courtly manner which had earned for him the sobriquet of the ,duke2 ,very well1 to-morrow you shall have a change4 ,to-morrow1 there was no dessert upon the menu4 ,when the reason for this was demanded1 he simply answered1 ,you wanted a change1 and you've got it4 ,i shall give no fruit in future4 ,this has become a tradition4 ,notwithstanding1 it is a remarkable dinner1 and there is usually a good variety of sweets4 ,as a tip to people who want to drink champagne and are sometimes deterred by the high prices demanded for well-known brands1 while being always suspicious of the sugary tisanes supplied on the ,continent1 ,i may mention that the champagne wines bearing ,mr4 ,wiltcher's own name and labelled according to taste as ,dry ,royal and ,grand ,cremant respectively1 are specially bottled for his establishment at ,rheims2 and1 though the price is little more than half that charged for les grandes marques1 they will be found pure1 wholesome1 and to the ,english and ,american taste4 ,wiltcher's is rapidly becoming essentially an ,american house4 ,justine's is a little fish restaurant on the ,quai au ,bois a ,bruler1 by the side of the fish market4 ,it has distinctly a bourgeois character4 ,it is not the sort of place you would choose to take a lady in her summer frocks to1 but you get a fine fish dinner there nevertheless4 ,there is no restaurant in the world where moules a la mariniere are served in such perfection1 and you can rely on every bit of fish supplied there being fresh4 ,the exterior is unattractive1 even dirty1 and the service inside is somewhat rough4 ,on ,fridays the place is always crowded1 and there may be a difficulty about retaining a room upstairs1 where it is best to go when you wish to be specially well served4 ,in the old days1 it was the fashion to go on ,fridays 7or on any day for a fish lunch7 to ,le ,sabot1 a restaurant-estaminet of the same order a little lower down on the quay1 which has a reputation for its manner of cooking mussels2 but1 since the death of old ,francois1 who kept it1 the place does not appear to be so much in favour1 and the tide of custom now flows towards ,justine's4 ,it must be remembered that this house is mentioned simply as a feature of ,brussels life and not as a representative restaurant4 ,l',etoile1 in the ,rue des ,harengs1 is the most famous restaurant in ,brussels4 ,in the time of ,louis ,dot1 it certainly held rank as the first of all1 both for cooking and for wine1 and ,emile ,ollivier1 ,dot's successor1 is doing his best to sustain the reputation4 ,neatly framed and hung on one of the walls is still to be seen the card signed by the late ,henry ,pettitt1 the dramatist1 attesting to the fact that he had just eaten the best lunch of his life4 ,this card some years later was countersigned by a ,lord ,mayor of ,london2 and a ,lord ,mayor surely should be a good judge of a lunch4 ,whatever place is visited in ,brussels1 ,l',etoile should not be missed4 ,the stranger should be very careful to go in at the right door4 ,the wines at ,l',etoile have always been good1 and ,dot used to have some ,burgundy that was world-renowned4 ,his fine champagne was also famous1 and he had some extra-special for which he used to charge #d francs #ej centimes a glass4 ,i have heard ,dot himself tell the story how a well-known restaurateur from ,london came one evening with two friends to see how things were done at ,l',etoile4 ,after dinner they sent for ,dot1 to compliment him and ask him to join them with a liqueur1 and he was to give them some of his best brandy4 ,they smacked their lips on tasting it1 and the glasses were filled a second time2 but the gentleman who paid the bill rather raised his eyebrows when he saw the item1 liqueurs1 #cf francs4 ,he got even with me1 however1 said ,dot1 for when ,i went to ,london ,i returned his visit4 ,i had a good dinner 7not so good1 ,i think1 as ,i should have served71 and ,i sent for him to join me with the coffee4 ,while we chatted1 ,i ordered cigars1 repeating his words1 ',give us some of your very best4' ,he did1 and he charged me #gs4 #f;d4 a piece for them4 ,the rooms at ,l',etoile are very small1 and if any one wants to prove the establishment at its best1 he should take the precaution of retaining a table and ordering dinner beforehand4 ,le ,belveder is in the ,rue ,chair et ,pain2 it has lately been opened by ,jules ,letellier1 ex-maitre-d'hotel of the ,filet de ,sole and brother to ,adolph ,letellier of the ,lion d',or4 ,here the restaurant is a la carte1 and a speciality is made of fish and game4 ,things are well done1 and it is a safe place to take on4 ,the ,cafe ,riche is opposite the ,helder1 and nearer to the ,opera ,house4 ,it was founded in #ahfe by ,gautier1 the nephew of ,bignon of ,paris1 who retains the proprietorship and management until the present time4 ,it has always had an aristocratic clientele1 and is specially favoured by ,parisians visiting ,brussels4 ,during the political troubles in ,france the ,duc d',orleans1 ,prince ,victor ,napoleon1 and ,henri ,rochefort were all patrons of the ,cafe ,riche1 and it required all the tact and savoir faire of the proprietor to keep apart and at the same time give satisfaction and pleasure to the conflicting parties4 ,the ,cafe ,riche is one of the best places in ,brussels for a banquet or a large dinner-party4 ,woodcock and snipe a la ,riche are specialities4 ,although the prices are generally a la carte1 one can have a lunch and dinner at fixed price by ordering beforehand4 ,duranton's1 on the ,avenue ,louise1 is now run by ,monsieur ,pierre ,strobbe1 who took a first prize at the ,brussels cookery exhibition4 ,the restaurant is pleasantly situated1 and on ,sunday1 if you wish to go to the races in the afternoon1 it is very convenient1 being on the direct route to ,boitsfort4 ,there are three rooms on the ground floor1 in which you can lunch4 ,that on the right1 a small narrow room under the orders of ,charles1 from the ,black ,forest1 is the smartest4 ,he will introduce you to some special ,kirsch--from the ,black ,forest4 ,the cooking in all the rooms is the same1 and it is good4 ,order your cab to be at the door half an hour before the first race4 ,the ,laiterie is in the ,bois de la ,cambre4 ,in summer time it is indeed the most pleasant place to dine in ,brussels4 ,in the ,bois there are several places that supply lunches1 dinners1 and light refreshments1 but the ,laiterie is the only one that is really first class4 ,for seventeen years it has been under the management of ,m4 ,artus and his son4 ,the establishment is the property of the town of ,brussels1 and is well kept up in every respect4 ,here on a ,sunday as many as #aejj chairs and #djj tables are often occupied4 ,in the evenings the gardens are brilliantly illuminated1 there being #aajj gas lamps4 ,music is discoursed by a ,tzigane orchestra1 and the late ,queen of the ,belgians1 who often used to stop her pony chaise at the ,laiterie to hear them play1 subscribed from her private purse #bjj francs every year to these musicians4 ,dinners are served at separate tables1 under ,japanese umbrellas1 and the cooking is excellent2 but it is as well to secure a seat as near to the main building as possible1 to overcome that objection to al-fresco meals--cold dishes4 ,the wines are good1 and ,m4 ,artus has some fine ,ayala--'#ic1 in magnums--unless it is all drunk by now4 ,there must be something about the cellars of these out-door places peculiarly favourable to beer1 for no pale ale in the world can compare with that drawn at the bars of the ,epsom grand-stand1 and in ,belgium there is no bottled ,bass so fresh and palatable as that which one gets at the ,laiterie4 ,if my friend were staying in ,brussels longer than a week1 the other restaurants to which ,i might take him would be the ,taverne ,royale1 at the corner of the ,galeries ,saint ,hubert1 where some real #ahfe cognac can be had at #ge centimes the glass2 the ,freres ,provencaux1 in the ,rue ,royale2 the ,restaurant de la ,monnaie 7a large place1 generally noisy1 with not the most rapid of service72 ,stielen's1 in the ,rue de l',eveque2 and the ,taverne ,restaurant des ,eleveurs on the ,avenue de la ,toison d',or4 ,at the ,taverne de ,londres1 in the ,rue de l',ecuyer1 there is always a fine cut of cold roast beef with ,english pickles4 ,on ,wednesdays all the ,brussels restaurants are crowded1 it being ,bourse day1 and in a wide sense market day1 when over #ejjj strangers1 mostly men1 come into the city from provincial towns4 ,in conclusion1 ,i may mention that ,i have failed to discover the restaurant where ,george ,osborne gave his great dinner to the ,bareacres a few days before the battle of ,waterloo4 ,thackeray records that as they came away from the feast1 ,lord ,bareacres asked to see the bill1 and pronounced it a d---- bad dinner and d---- dear6 ,probably the place1 therefore1 is extinct2 for happily the double pronouncement can nowadays be seldom applied to any of the restaurants mentioned in this chapter4 ,h4,l4 ,,chapter ,v ,,holland ,restaurants at the ,hague--,amsterdam--,scheveningen--,rott erdam--,the food of the people4 ,the ,hague ,at the ,hague1 the capital1 the best restaurant is ,van der ,pyl's1 in the centre of the town1 situated on the ,plaats1 where the cuisine is ,french and excellent1 and where there are admirable wines in the cellar4 ,a good set luncheon is served at this restaurant for the very moderate price of one florin 7#as4 #h;d472 but it is wise to order dinner a la carte1 and to give them some hours' notice4 ,the manager is ,m4 ,anjema4 ,it is advisable to secure a table near the window1 especially in summer4 ,some of the best wines are not put on the wine-list4 ,in former years the proprietor of ,van der ,pyl's was possessed of a puritanical conscience1 and would not allow any two people to dine alone in his private salons4 ,so strictly did he adhere to his rule on this subject1 that when a well-known man-about-town insisted on his right to dine in the petit salon alone with his wife1 the inexorable proprietor turned him out of the restaurant4 ,there was1 however1 another well-known member of ,hague society who succeeded where the gentleman who thought that matrimony overrode all rules had failed4 ,the hero of the little story had made a bet that1 in spite of the puritanical proprietor1 he would dine a deux with a lady in the petit salon4 ,he won his bet by subtlety4 ,he ordered a dinner for three1 and when he and the lady arrived they waited a quarter of an hour for the other imaginary guest4 ,then1 remarking that he was sure ,mr4 ,x4 would not mind the dinner being begun without him1 the host ordered the soup to be brought up2 and so1 with constant allusions to the man that never came1 the dinner was served1 course by course1 and the bet won before the proprietor had the least idea that a trick had been played upon him4 ,a somewhat similar story1 it will be remembered1 is told of ,delmonico's and its proprietor in the early history of that great ,new ,york restaurant4 ,in the ,american story1 the youth who had dined in a cabinet particulier with a lady1 in contravention of the rules of the house1 had not the sense to hold his tongue until after he had paid his bill4 ,when that document did make its appearance1 some of the items were astonishing4 ,you don't expect me to pay this bill8 said the astonished diner to the proprietor1 who had made his appearance4 ,no1 ,i do not1 said ,mr4 ,delmonico1 but until you do you will not come into my restaurant again4 ,the following are some of the dishes ,van der ,pyl's makes a speciality of3--,poule au pot ,henri ,,iv41 ,sole ,normande1 ,cote de ,boeuf a la ,russe1 ,homards a l',americaine1 ,poularde a la ,parisienne1 ,perdreaux au choux1 ,omelette ,siberienne1 ,souffle ,palmyre1 ,poires ,alaska1 most of them standard dishes of the usual cuisine ,francaise1 though the ,omelette ,siberienne was invented to please a ,british diplomat who preferred a soupcon of absinthe to either rum or ,kuemmel with his omelette4 ,and this is a typical menu drawn up by ,m4 ,anjema1 a menu which reads as though it were for a ,french banquet3-- ,huitres de ,zelande4 ,caviar4 ,consomme ,diplomate4 ,truite ,saumonee a la ,nantua4 ,poularde a l',imperiale4 ,noisettes de ,chevreuil a la ,st-,hubert4 ,delice de foie gras au ,champagne4 ,becassines roties4 ,salade ,st-,clair4 ,tartelettes aux ,haricots ,verts4 ,mousse ,antoinette4 ,sandwiches au ,parmesan4 ,dessert4 ,the ,cafe ,royal1 in the ,vijberberg1 with an ,american luncheon bar on the ground floor and a restaurant upstairs1 is fairly good4 ,of the hotels to which restaurants are attached1 the ,hotel des ,indes and ,hotel ,vieux ,doelen have a reputation for good cookery4 ,the former was in olden times the town house of the ,barons van ,brienen1 and in winter many people of ,dutch society1 coming to the capital from the country for the season1 take apartments there1 and during that period of the year the restaurant is often filled by very brilliant gatherings4 ,the manager1 ,mr4 ,haller1 has been made a director of ,claridge's ,hotel in ,london1 and divides his attention between the two hotels4 ,the following menu is a typical one of a dinner of ceremony at the ,hotel des ,indes2 it was composed for a banquet given by ,count ,henri ,stuergkh3-- ,huitres4 ,consomme ,bagration4 ,filets de ,soles ,joinville4 ,carre de ,mouton ,nesselrode4 ,parfait de foie gras de ,strasbourg4 ,fonds d',artichauts a la ,barigoule4 ,grouse rotis sur ,croutons4 ,compote de ,montreuil4 ,coeurs de ,laitues4 ,creme au ,chocolat et ,vanille4 ,paillettes au ,fromage4 ,the ,vieux ,doelen has a beautiful old dining-room1 and it is here that every year the smartest balls in the capital take place1 given by the ,societe du ,casino1 and generally attended by ,their ,majesties and the ,court4 ,hock's fish shop in the market has a room where excellent oyster suppers are served1 but this is not a place to which ladies should be taken at night1 for it is then patronised by damsels who take the courtesy title of actresses1 and the students from ,leiden4 ,amsterdam ,the ,restaurant ,riche is managed by a ,frenchman1 and the cuisine is ,french4 ,it is necessary to order dinner in advance1 and it is well to be particular4 ,under these circumstances an excellent dinner is obtainable4 ,there is a cellar of good wine1 the ,burgundies being especially to be recommended4 ,the ,restaurant van ,laar1 in the ,kalverstraat1 has a celebrity for its fish dinners1 and excellent oyster suppers are to be had there4 ,scheveningen ,curiously enough1 this important seaside resort has no restaurant with any claim to celebrity4 ,the dinners to be obtained in the hotels have to suffice for the wants of the visitors to the place4 ,rotterdam ,the ,stroomberg here deserves a word of commendation1 the food to be obtained there being excellent4 ,the ,food of the ,people ,the cuisine of the country1 the food the people of the country eat1 is not recommended to the experimenting gourmet2 for the favourite dish is a sort of ,kedjeree1 in which dried stock-fish1 rice1 potatoes1 butter1 and anchovies all play their part4 ,sauerkraut and sausages1 soused herrings and milk puddings also have claims to be considered the national dishes4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,german ,,towns ,the cookery of the country--,rathskeller and beer-cellars-- ,dresden--,muenich--,nueremburg--,hanove r--,leipsic--,frankfurt-- ,duesseldorf--,the ,rhine valley--,cure places--,kiel--,hamburg4 ,a ,german housewife who is a good cook can do marvels with a goose1 having half-a-dozen stuffings for it1 and she knows many other ways of treating a hare than roasting it or jugging it4 ,she also is cunning in the making of the bitter-sweet salads and purees which are eaten with the more tasteless kinds of meat2 but1 unfortunately1 the good ,german housewife does not as a rule control the hotel or restaurant that the travelling gourmet is likely to visit1 but rules in her own comfortable home4 ,the ,german ,delikatessen1 which form the snacks a ,teuton eats at any time to encourage his thirst1 are excellent2 and the smoked sprats1 and smoked and soused herrings1 the various sausages and innumerable pickles1 are the best edible products of the ,fatherland4 ,the ,german meat is as a rule poor4 ,the best beef and mutton in the north has generally been imported from ,holland4 ,the ,german is a great eater of fresh-water fish1--pike1 carp1 perch1 salmon1 and trout all being found on his menus1 the trout being cooked au bleu4 ,zander1 a fish which is partly of the pike1 partly of the trout species1 is considered a great dainty4 ,the vegetables are generally spoiled in the cooking1 being converted into a puree which might well earn the adjective eternal4 ,even the asparagus is spoilt by the native cook1 being cut into inch cubes and set afloat in melted butter4 ,compotes sweet and sour1 are served at strange times during the repast1 and lastly1 as a sort of old guard1 the much-beloved but deadly ,sauerkraut1 made from both red and white cabbage1 is always brought up to complete the cook's victory4 ,the potatoes in ,germany are generally excellent1 the sandy soil being suitable for their cultivation4 ,the cookery in the big hotels on much-frequented routes in ,germany is now almost universally a rather heavy version of the ,french art1 with perhaps a compote with the veal to give local colour4 ,in the small hotels in little provincial towns the meals are served at the times that the middle-class ,german of the north usually eats them1 and are an inferior copy of what he gets in his own home4 ,as a warning ,i give what any enterprising traveller looking for the food of the country from the kitchen of a little inn may expect3-- ,coffee at #h ,a4,m4 with rolls1 ,kaffee ,broedchen1 and butter1 and this meal he will be expected to descend to the dining-room to eat4 ,a slight lunch at #aa ,a4,m41 at which the ,german equivalent for a sandwich1 a ,broedchen cut and buttered1 with a slice of uncooked ham1 lachs1 or cheese between the halves1 makes its appearance1 and a glass of beer or wine is drunk4 ,dinner 7,mittagessen7 is announced between #a and #b o'clock1 and is a long meal consisting of soup1 which is the water in which the beef has been boiled2 fish2 a messy entree1 probably of ,frankfurt sausage2 the beef boiled to rags with a compote of plums or wortleberries and mashed apples2 and1 as the sweet1 pancakes4 ,coffee is served at #d ,p4,m4 with ,kaffee ,kuechen1 its attendant cake1 and at supper 7,abendessen7 one hot dish1 generally veal1 is given with a choice of cold viands or sausages in thin slices--leber ,wuerst1 ,goettinger ,wuerst1 hot ,frankfurter ,wuerst1 and black pudding4 ,if the above gruesome list does not warn the over-zealous inquirer1 his indigestion be on his own head4 ,in the south the cookery1 though still indifferent1 approximates more nearly to the ,french bourgeois cookery4 ,a dinner-party at a private house of well-to-do ,german people is always a very long feast1 lasting at least two hours1 and the cookery1 though good1 is heavy and rich1 and too many sauces accompany the meats4 ,many of the dishes are not served a la ,russe1 but are brought round in order that one may help one's self4 ,just as one is struggling into conversation in defective ,german1 a pike's head obtrudes itself over the left shoulder1 and it is necessary to twist in one's seat and go through a gymnastic performance to take a helping4 ,except in large cities the ,germans are not given to feeding at restaurants4 ,a golden rule1 which may be held to apply all over ,germany1 is that it is safe to take ladies wherever officers go in uniform4 ,the ,rathskeller ,in most ,german towns where there is a ,rathhaus 7a town hall7 one finds the ,rathskeller1 where beers or wine1 according to the part of the country1 are the principal attraction1 single dishes1 cutlets1 steaks1 cold meats1 oysters1 caviar being served more as an adjunct to the drink than as an orthodox meal4 ,the most noted of these ,rathskeller are at ,bremen1 ,luebeck1 and ,hamburg1 and that at ,bremen is first in importance4 ,it is a mediaeval ,gothic hall1 built #adje-adaj1 and it holds the finest stock of ,rhine and ,moselle wine in the world4 ,the wine is kept in very old casks4 ,one of the cellars is of particular interest as being the ,rose one1 where the magistrates used to sit in secret conclave1 sub rosa1 beneath the great rose carved upon the ceiling4 ,the ,german ,emperor generally pays a visit to the ,rathskeller when he visits ,bremen4 ,in the ,luebeck ,rathskeller is the admiral's table1 said to be made from a plank of the ship of the last ,admiral of ,luebeck1 who flourished in #aegj2 and even more interesting than the ,rathskeller is the ,schiffergesellschaft1 with its strange motto and its even stranger sign4 ,beer-,cellars ,throughout ,germany one meets in every town the large establishments1 beautifully decorated in the ,old ,german style1 of the various beer companies1 most of which are ,munich ones1 the ,lowenbrau1 the ,pschorrbrau1 the ,muenchener ,hofbrau1 and others4 ,be careful to close the metal top of your ,schopps if you are drinking with ,german companions1 for if you do not they have the right1 by the custom of the country1 to place their mugs on the top of the open one and demand another round4 ,if when you have emptied your mug1 you leave it with the lid open1 the waiter1 without asking any questions1 takes it away and refills it4 ,i now once more step down to allow ,a4,b4 to chat about the various ,german towns4 ,dresden ,dresden is not exactly an epicure's paradise1 but there is one restaurant which may1 ,i think1 be safely recommended as an establishment of the first order4 ,i am referring to the ,englischer ,garten1 which is managed by its proprietor1 ,herr ,curt ,roething4 ,the principal entrance is through a rather dingy looking archway in the ,waisenhausstrasse1 nearly opposite the ,victoria ,salon ,music ,hall4 ,the principal public rooms are on the ground floor4 ,the decorations used to be of a very dismal type1 but a year or two ago the rooms were all done up1 and1 without being palatial or particularly artistic1 they are now quite nice and bright in their way4 ,there are also some rooms on the first floor which are generally used for private parties4 ,the atmosphere in the winter is apt to be rather too sultry for ,english tastes1 but it is perhaps less close than in most other ,dresden restaurants4 ,at the back1 there is an open space dignified by the name of a garden1 running down to a nice wide street1 and here in the summer a number of tables are laid1 and one has the great advantage of dining al fresco4 ,the attendance is well above the ,dresden average and the waiters there invariably clean and civil4 ,the ,german waiter at his best is not often one of the highest polished specimens of humanity1 although some compensation may be found in the almost paternal interest he takes in habitues or customers who have succeeded in winning his good graces4 ,the table linen and other appointments are up to the mark without being luxurious4 ,in the middle of the day a huge dinner is served for #cs4 ,by leaving out one or two courses1 you can get quite as much as you can eat for lunch1 and then you only have to pay #bs4 ,this #bs4 lunch is perhaps the cheapest1 and1 at the price1 the best meal of its kind that one could possibly get at any restaurant4 ,in its way1 it is1 ,i think1 as remarkable a performance as the #as4 #f;d4 ,sunday morning breakfast at the ,grid at ,oxford4 ,it is1 of course1 not up to ,chevillard or ,paillard form1 but quite good enough for ordinary requirements4 ,in the evening everything is a la carte1 and is almost as dear as the set meal in the middle of the day is cheap4 ,single portions are1 however1 with some very few exceptions1 more than enough for two4 ,the service is much more recherche than in the middle of the day2 there is quite a large bill of fare1 and you can get all ordinary restaurant dishes1 in addition to a considerable selection of ,delikatessen1 such as oysters1 caviar1 fresh truffles1 peaches1 etc41 all of which are kept in good qualities4 ,game and fish are also good at the ,englischer ,garten1 and the partridges and woodcocks are very well cooked2 in fact1 all their game can be highly recommended4 ,live trout and other fresh-water fish are kept in a tank1 and you may generally rely on finding the soles and turbot fresh as well4 ,as regards price1 unless you are an habitue or make special terms1 a fairly little simple dinner will average out at #ajs4 a head1 exclusive of wine4 ,it is well to order dinner beforehand1 as the culinary arrangements are not very expeditious4 ,in the evening the cuisine is by way of being first-class ,french art1 but it just lacks the lightness of touch which is characteristic of the best ,french cookery4 ,wine is rather dear1 but the higher-priced brands of hock1 ,moselle1 or claret are in some cases excellent4 ,as to the champagnes found abroad1 unless they are specially made for the ,english market1 they must not be judged from an ,english standpoint1 being as a rule far too sweet for our taste4 ,an instance of this occurred to me at ,rheims1 when staying with one of the champagne magnates for some shooting owned by a syndicate of some of the large champagne shippers4 ,we met for dejeuner at their ,chalet de ,chasse or club-house1 each gentleman bringing his own wine4 ,the result was that one saw from ten to a dozen different famous brands of champagne on the table4 ,my host asked me which sort ,i would prefer4 ,du vin ,brut1 if you have any1 ,i replied4 ,ah6 ,vous buvez de ce poison-la8 exclaimed he1 smiling4 ,so they evidently did not agree with our taste for dry wine4 ,but you can make a pleasant and harmless drink of the sweet champagne in summer by mixing it with an equal quantity of light ,moselle1 adding a liqueur glass of curacoa1 and putting some wild strawberries or a large peach cut up into the concoction with some ice4 ,to return to the ,englischer ,garten4 ,they also keep some particularly good ,pilsen beer which they serve highly iced3 that of course is as it should be1 but it is apt to have disastrous consequences if one is not accustomed to it4 ,being a wine restaurant they do not expect you to drink beer except as a supplement to your wine1 but if you make a point of it you can have it throughout4 ,an additional charge of #f;d4 per head is made for the set mid-day meal if wine is not ordered4 ,the clientele is by way of being smart in the evening1 and there is generally a fair sprinkling of officers of the two crack ,saxon cavalry regiments1--the ,dresden ,horse ,guards and the ,oschatz ,lancers4 ,evening clothes1 or1 better still1 a dress jacket and a black tie are advisable1 but by no means de rigueur4 ,the-cloth-cap knickerbocker-cum-,norfolk-jacket-get-up 1 unfortunately so frequently affected by travelling ,englishmen in continental capitals1 is certainly not to be recommended4 ,in the middle of the day the company is more bourgeois1 and on ,sundays1 and occasionally on ,saturdays1 the place is apt to be unpleasantly crowded4 ,in the evening1 except on race nights1 there is always plenty of room2 in fact it is usually rather empty till after the plays are over4 ,the other restaurants would not appeal to a gourmet but1 for a change1 some of them are well worth visiting according to the season4 ,for instance3-- ,the ,belvedere1 an old-established and very popular institution1 delightfully situated on the ,bruhlsche ,terrasse1 with a charming view over the ,elbe and the principal architectural features of the town4 ,essentially a place for the summer1 when one can take one's meals out of doors on its terraces and balconies4 ,there is a beer and a wine department1 and in the former an excellent band plays2 but it is difficult to secure a table within earshot as there is always a great crowd4 ,the attendance is indifferent and the cuisine fair and wholesome1 though no doubt you could get a good dinner if you took a little trouble and ordered it4 ,the public dinners which take place there in the large banqueting hall are quite creditable productions1 and the position1 view1 and fresh air all combine to render it a very pleasant hot-weather resort4 ,the ,stadt ,gotha4 ,the wine restaurant is small and quaintly decorated4 ,very popular with the upper and middle classes and extremely respectable1 cuisine very fair1 set meals1 and especially supper after the play very inexpensive4 ,but if you order a la carte1 like most other places1 it is rather dear4 ,a capital beer restaurant in connection with it and good2 a thoroughly plain ,german cooking served here4 ,tiedemann and ,grahl's1 in the ,seestrasse1 is a typical ,german ,weinstube with a large clientele of habitues1 mostly men1 but ladies can go there4 ,the owners being large wine merchants have some first-rate wine at prices averaging rather lower than the ,englischer ,garten4 ,but there is a very extensive list and the quality is not altogether uniform1 so if you can suborn a friendly waiter he could help you considerably4 ,excellent oysters and smoked salmon are to be had here1 but the place is apt to be rather crowded and noisy4 ,the appointments are of the simplest and most unpretentious kind4 ,prices1 moderately high--about two-thirds of the ,englischer ,garten4 ,set meals are served1 but a la carte is more usual4 ,the waiters1 being institutions like most of the guests1 are inclined to be a little off-hand and familiar1 and there is altogether a free and easy and homely tone about the place1 but it is perfectly respectable4 ,neues ,palais de ,saxe1 on the ,neumarket1 is owned and managed by ,herr ,muller4 ,very fair cuisine2 good set meals2 a la carte rather more expensive2 speciality made of oysters and ecrevisses1 which latter are served in all sorts of fascinating ways4 ,not at all a bad place for supper after the theatre1 but perhaps a trifle dull4 ,kneist1 in a little street off the ,altmarkt1 called1 ,i think1 the ,grosse ,brudergasse1 is managed by the proprietor whose name it bears4 ,this may perhaps be called the leading beer restaurant of ,dresden2 it is remarkably popular and considered very good4 ,worth a visit as a typical though favourable specimen of its kind4 ,much frequented by officers and officials2 here you find good plain fare served in the simplest of fashions4 ,meals a la carte and quite inexpensive2 cuisine purely ,german1 homely and wholesome1 with excellent beer1 especially ,erlanger4 ,the atmosphere is usually hot1 thick1 and stuffy1 but the clientele does not seem to mind it4 ,in a little back room the principal dignitaries of the ,saxon ,court1 ,state1 and ,army are wont to forgather every morning for their ,fruehschoppen1--a kind of early1 largely liquid lunch1 where1 if rumour can be trusted1 a good deal of important business is informally discussed and settled4 ,the ,kaiser ,palast1 on the ,pirnaischerplatz1 is a huge but not particularly attractive establishment with wine and beer departments4 ,the best ,pilsen beer in ,dresden is obtainable at the ,bierstall in a little street off the ,altmarkt1 in a somewhat disreputable quarter of the town2 it is not a suitable place for ladies1 but is quite respectable for men4 ,the beer is well worth sampling1 but the air is not fit to breathe4 ,good ,munich beer is to be had at the ,zacherlbrau in the ,koenig ,johann ,strasse4 ,as regards dining at hotels4 ,the ,savoy 7,sedanstrasse71 the ,europaischen ,hof 7,pragerstrasse71 and the ,bellevue 7,theaterplatz7 rank about equal4 ,the set meals are of the usual hotel type2 the a la carte prices are1 of course1 high4 ,the preference of the ,english is generally given to the ,savoy1 but the ,europaischer ,hof is the most popular with ,german society4 ,the ,bellevue is very pleasant in the summer1 having a large verandah with a lovely view overlooking the ,elbe1 where one can dine in the hot weather4 ,munich ,there are no absolutely first-class restaurants in ,munich1 although the ,hotel de ,russie is certainly the best and now boasts of a capital chef4 ,it is under the same directorate as the ,vierjahrzeiten1 but being a better class of establishment1 with more modern appointments1 it has eclipsed the latter4 ,it is now a case of the ,vierjahrzeiten's nose being put out of joint by its own child4 ,yet the latter1 though rather old-fashioned1 is still very comfortable and has an ,american bar4 ,schleich's ,restaurant is very good1 as is also the ,continental1 on the ,maximiliens ,platz1 and the ,hungaerische ,hof4 ,you should visit the ,hofbrauhaus in the ,platz1 if only to drink as good a glass of beer as one could wish to have4 ,it is a fine and typical specimen of a ,german ,bierhalle1 very respectable and much frequented4 ,after having had your first ,schoppen 7for having once tasted you invariably want more7 you rinse out your glass at a handy fountain before presenting it to be refilled2 but the person who takes your ,schoppen along with several others in each hand1 invariably with unerring instinct hands you back your same ,schoppen4 ,as an appetizer for the beer to which it is supposed to give an additional zest1 they place a large radish about the size of an apple in a sort of turnip-cutting machine which ejects it in thin rings2 it is then washed and put into a saucer with a little salt and water and eaten without any other accompaniment than the beer2 it may be an acquired taste1 but it appears to be very popular4 ,nueremberg ,nueremberg being essentially a commercial and industrial town1 it follows that expensive restaurants and high living are not one of the features of it4 ,yet the ,bierkellers there are institutions that have existed since the time of ,albert ,duerer and his companions4 ,among the best of these is the ,rathhauskeller 7or town-hall cellar71 kept by ,carl ,giessing1 a most picturesque place1 as indeed is everything in ,nueremberg2 also the ,fottinger in the ,koenigstrasse and the ,herrenkeller in the ,theaterstrasse4 ,at all of these good meals can be obtained at moderate prices1 and hock is the best wine to order4 ,perhaps the most interesting place in this storehouse of beautiful antiquities is the hostelry known as the ,bratwurstgloecklein1 or ,little ,bell of the ,roast ,sausage2 here the specialities are excellent beer and the very best of diminutive sausages made fresh every day1 also ,sauerkraut4 ,the bell is still suspended on the end wall by an ornamental1 hammered iron bracket4 ,built about the year #adjj1 it is one of the most ancient1 if not the oldest1 refreshment house in the world1 and has been used as such ever since4 ,here did the ,meistersingers forgather1 ,hans ,sachs1 ,peter ,vischer1 ,albrecht ,duerer1 ,wellebald ,pirkheimer1 ,veit ,stoss and other celebrated men in ,nueremberg's history in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries4 ,great historical interest has always attached to this house1 where the best class of entertainment is to be had4 ,the present owners profess to have many of the original drinking-mugs1 cans1 etc41 that these old customers habitually used and which were individually reserved for them4 ,the proprietors of the ,bratwurstgloecklein are so particular with regard to the character of their sausages that they are made twice a day4 ,consequently the sausage they give you in the evening has not even been made that morning2 it dates its construction only from mid-day4 ,there is a doggerel rhyme written of the establishment that runs very much in the same strain in which ,i have translated it3-- ,not many noble strangers ,can possibly refrain1 ,when once they've ate our sausages ,from eating them again4 ,and it usually strikes them1 ,if they have not yet found it out1 ,that these sausages are splendid ,when they're mixed with ,sauerkraut4 ,the only thing they rail at1 ,when they fain would criticise1 ,is to wish the little sausage ,were a little larger size4 ,at the principal hotels1 such as the ,grand1 ,strauss1 ,wuerttemberger ,hof1 and ,victoria1 very good meals can be procured--the mid-day table-d'hote prices varying from #cs4 to #cs4 #f;d4 ,perhaps the best of these is the ,victoria1 which rejoices in a grill-room1 and where the delicacies of the season are available4 ,there are ,american bars at the ,american ,bar1 ,karolinenstrasse1 the ,hotel ,strauss1 same street1 and at the ,wittelsbacker ,hof in the ,pfaunenschmiedsgasse4 ,the cafes are the ,bristol in the ,josephs ,platz1 the ,central in the ,karolinenstrasse1 the ,habsburg and the ,imperial both in the ,koenigstrasse2 but do not go to any of these under the idea that they represent the ,cafe ,anglais in ,paris4 ,a very pleasant resort in the summer is the ,maxfeld ,restauration in the ,stadt ,park4 ,it is in the open air1 and an excellent band plays at #e ,p4,m4 on ,tuesdays1 ,thursdays1 and ,sundays4 ,a fair dinner is provided1 but it is better to order in advance by telephone4 ,hanover ,the ,georgshalle is1 and has been for the last forty years1 the best cafe and restaurant in ,hanover1 but is now incorporated with ,kasten's ,hotel4 ,it was the usual and1 for many years1 the only place of resort where a simple and decent meal could be obtained4 ,i am not talking of the haute cuisine1 because it does not exist in this city4 ,kasten's ,hotel is good of its kind4 ,the ,kaiser has dined there on his occasional visits to the town4 ,private balls and other entertainments are given there1 and the wines are generally good4 ,the ,tip ,top ,restaurant1 in the ,karmarschstrasse1 is a comparatively modern1 pleasant1 and cheery locale1 with a good bill of fare4 ,on account of its proximity to the theatre it is much frequented for suppers after the play4 ,there are several ,biergaerten open in the summer where military and other bands perform1 but nothing but ordinary refreshment is to be obtained here4 ,leipzig ,leipzig has one good restaurant1 the ,restaurant ,paege on the ,marktplatz1--at least it is the best in the town4 ,the ,hotel ,hauffe1 in the ,russplatz1 is an old-established hotel1 is well conducted1 and has a restaurant where one can get quite a decent dinner if ordered beforehand4 ,there is also another1 ,friedrichkrause1 ,katharinensbresse1 ,no4 #f1 but with these three the culinary capabilities of ,leipzig are practically at an end4 ,of course there are a number of ,bierhalle and ,kellern to accommodate the students and music pupils1 for which latter ,leipzig is the home of instruction4 ,frankfurt-am-,main ,frankfurt gives me the idea of having more wealthy people in it than any other town ,i know1 and ,i do not think ,i am very far wrong in this4 ,the ,central ,railway ,station is the finest one can imagine4 ,it has at least four first-class restaurants attached to hotels4 ,the ,hotel d',angleterre1 or ,englischer ,hof1 in the centre of the city1 the ,rossmarkt1 is a fine old hotel4 ,our present king1 when ,prince of ,wales1 generally stayed there when passing through4 ,the famous ,german philosopher1 ,schopenhauer1 dined there regularly for thirty years--from #ahca to #ahfj1 though ,i cannot advance that as any great recommendation1 for the ways and tastes of philosophers are usually somewhat erratic4 ,i have no doubt1 however1 that the cuisine has materially altered since ,schopenhauer's time4 ,the ,frankfurter ,hof1 built about thirty years ago1 is a larger establishment with all the modern improvements4 ,it is much frequented by ,englishmen and ,americans1 but rather lacks the quiet of the ,angleterre4 ,it has a good cuisine1 for ,m4 ,ritz1 who has an interest in the hotel1 has seen to that1 and magnificent reception rooms where many balls1 parties1 weddings1 etc41 take place4 ,a band plays there during the greater part of the day1 and it is advisable to get as far distant as possible from it when dining4 ,in the restaurant one can obtain a la carte a very excellently cooked dinner4 ,the ,palast ,hotel ,furstenhof is of the highest class and was only recently opened4 ,it has beautifully decorated rooms1 a good restaurant1 a dining-hall1 and an excellent ,american bar4 ,herr ,schill the former head waiter of the ,englischer ,hof--his nom de guerre is ,mons4 ,jules--assiduously sees to the comfort and welfare of his guests4 ,like ,mons4 ,ritz he has a large following of friends4 ,the ,hotel ,imperial was opened about two years ago1 and although a little smaller than the ,frankfurter ,hof or the ,palast has a most aristocratic clientele4 ,being close to the ,opera ,house1 its restaurant is much patronised in the season by people who during the entr'acte1 or to pass over a more or less tedious act1 prefer to partake of light refreshments and a cigarette on the terrace in the open air4 ,there is an ,american bar there also4 ,the elite of ,frankfurt1 on the rare occasions when they do sup after going to the theatre or opera1 generally order their meals at one of the restaurants of the leading hotels2 but ,frankfurt does not1 as a rule1 keep late hours4 ,the ,palmen ,garten is a pleasant summer restaurant a little way out of the town1 on the ,bockenheimerstrasse4 ,it has a fine dining-hall1 or you may sit at al-fresco tables while the regimental band discourses excellent music4 ,the cooking is good--,german cuisine1 but nothing high class4 ,it is a very pleasant spot to visit in the hot weather2 on fete days one is treated there to the luxury of fireworks1 etc4 ,buerose ought to be mentioned as a quiet restaurant1 where there is a specialite of hors-d'oeuvre and excellent oysters4 ,lovers of good beer will find at the ,allemania1 if they ask for a ,schoppen of the ,royal ,court ,hofbrau1 exactly what they have been craving for2 and the ,pilsener at the ,kaiserhof ,restaurant in the ,goetheplatz is equally good4 ,one has to sample several glasses of each before one can definitely make up one's mind as to which is the best4 ,duesseldorf ,the best restaurant in ,duesseldorf is that of the ,park ,hotel on the ,corneliusplatz4 ,it is one of the best on the ,rhine1 and was opened in ,april #aijb on the occasion of the ,duesseldorf ,exhibition2 it is a fine building1 and has pretty grounds and ornamental water adjoining it4 ,it is frequented by the highest ,german nobility1 but yet its prices are moderate4 ,luncheons are served at #c marks1 dinners at #e marks4 ,suppers for #c marks are served at prix fixe1 or one can order a la carte4 ,the ,moselle wines are exceptionally good4 ,there is an ,american bar in the hotel4 ,the restaurant1 handsomely decorated in the style of ,louis ,,xiv41 is opposite the ,opera ,house and overlooks the ,hofgaerten4 ,it has no specialities in the way of food beyond the usual ,german and ,french dishes4 ,at the ,thuernagel ,restaurant1 also in the ,corneliusplatz1 you are likely to find the artistic colony in session4 ,the restaurant dates back to the year #aheh4 ,there is a good collection of wine in the cellars1 and a word may be said in favour of its cookery4 ,the ,rhine ,valley ,the ,rhine valley is not a happy hunting ground for the gourmet4 ,cologne has its picturesque ,gurzenich in which is a restaurant2 its inhabitants eat their oysters in the saloon in the ,kleine ,bugenstrasse1 part of a restaurant there2 and there are restaurants in the ,marienburg and in the ,stadt garden1 and the ,flora and ,zoological ,gardens4 ,at every little town on either bank there are one or more taverns with a view where the usual atrocities which pass as food in provincial ,germany are to be obtained1 good beer1 and generally excellent wine made from the vineyards on the mountain side4 ,now and again some restaurant-keeper has a little pool of fresh water in front of his house1 and one can select one's particular fish to be cooked for breakfast4 ,the wines of the district are far better than its food4 ,rudesheim1 ,geisenheim1 ,schloss ,johannisberg1 the ,steinberg ,abbey above ,hattenheim1 are of course household words1 and the man who said that travelling along the ,rhine was like reading a restaurant wine-list had some justification for his ,philistine speech4 ,one does not expect to discover the real ,steinberg ,cabinet in a village inn1 and the ,johannisberg generally found in every hotel in ,rhineland is a very inferior wine to that of the ,schloss1 and is grown in the vineyards round ,dorf ,johannisberg4 ,i have memories of excellent bottles of wine at the ,ress at ,hattenheim1 and at the ,engel at ,erbach2 but the fact that ,i was making a walking tour may have added to the delight of the draughts4 ,the ,marcobrunn vineyards lie between ,hattenheim and ,erbach4 ,the ,hotel ,victoria at ,bingen has its own vineyards and makes a capital wine2 and in the valley of the river below ,bingen almost every little town and hill--,lorch1 ,boppard1 ,horcheim1 and the ,kreuzberg--has its own particular brand1 generally excellent4 ,assmanhausen1 which gives such an excellent red wine1 is on the opposite bank to ,bingen and a little below it4 ,the ,rhine boats have a very good assortment of wines on board1 but it is wise to run the finger a little way down the list before ordering your bottle1 for the very cheapest wines on the ,rhine are1 as is usual in all countries1 of the thinnest description4 ,most of the ,british doctors on the ,continent make the greater part of their living by attending their fellow-countrymen who drink everywhere anything that is given them free1 and who hold that the vin du pays must be drinkable because it is the wine of the country4 ,our compatriots often swallow the throat-cutting stuff which the farm labourers and stable hands drink1 sooner than pay a little extra money for the sound wine of the district4 ,the foreigner who came to ,great ,britain and drank our cheapest ale and rawest whisky would go away with a poor impression of the liquors of our country4 ,drink the wine of the district where they make good wine1 but do not grudge the extra shilling which makes all the difference in quality4 ,the dinners and lunches on the big express ,rhine steamers are a scramble for food2 but on some of the smaller and slower boats1 where the caterer has fewer passengers to feed1 the meals are often very good4 ,i have a kindly memory of an old head steward1 a fatherly old gentleman in a silk cap shaped somewhat like an accordion1 who provided the meals on a leisurely steamer which pottered up the ,rhine1 stopping at every village4 ,he gave us local delicacies1 took an interest in our appetites1 and his cookery1 though distinctively ,german1 was also very good4 ,in a land where all the big hotels fill once a day and empty once a day1 and where the meals are in heavy-handed imitation of bourgeois ,french cookery1 that old man with his stews and roasts1 and pickles1 veal1 and pork1 sausages big and sausages small1 strange cheeses1 and ,delikatessen of all kinds was a good man to meet4 ,german ,cure ,places ,first of course amongst the places in ,germany where men and women mend their constitutions and enjoy themselves at the same time comes ,homburg ,the ,homburg ,dinner has become a household word1 meaning that a certain number of men and women agree to dine together at one of the hotels1 each one paying his or her own share in the expenses4 ,during the past two years1 owing to the desire to spend money shown by some millionaires1 ,british and ,american1 who are not happy unless they are giving expensive dinners every night with a score of guests1 this pretty old custom seems likely now to die out4 ,in no ,german town are there better hotels than at ,homburg1 and one dines on a warm day in very pleasant surroundings1 for ,ritter's has its world-famous terrace1 and some of the other hotels have very delightful open-air restaurants in their gardens4 ,simplicity1 good plain food well cooked1 is insisted on by the doctors at ,homburg1 and therefore a typical ,homburg dinner is a very small affair compared to ,german feasts over which the doctors do not have control4 ,this is a dinner of the day at ,ritter's1 taken haphazard from a little pile of menus1 and it may be accepted as a typical ,homburg dinner3-- ,potage ,crecy au ,riz4 ,truite de ,lac4 ,sce4 ,genevoise4 ,pommes ,natures4 ,longe de ,veau a la ,hongroise4 ,petits pois au ,jambon4 ,chapons de ,chalons rotis4 ,salade and ,compots4 ,peches a la ,cardinal4 ,fruits4 ,dessert4 ,the hotels at ,homburg are always quite full in the season4 ,no hotel-keeper puts any pressure on his guests to dine at his hotel1 and you may have your bedroom in one hotel and dine at another every night of your life so far as the proprietors care4 ,all those who have the luck to be made members of the ,golf ,club take tea there1 and eat cake such as is only to be found at school-treats in ,england4 ,the restaurant at the ,kurhaus goes up and down in public favour4 ,everybody goes to its terrace in the evening1 and fashion at the present time has1 ,i believe1 ordained that on one particular day of the week it is smart to dine there4 ,if the restaurant remains as excellently catered for as it was when ,i last visited ,homburg1 it is well worth including in the round of dinners4 ,wiesbaden ,at ,wiesbaden you generally dine where you sleep1 in your hotel4 ,i myself have generally stayed at the ,kaiser ,hof1 because ,i like to eat my supper on its creeper-hung terrace and look across the broad valley to the ,taunus hill2 but there are half-a-dozen hotels in the town1 the ,nassauer ,hof in particular1 which many people consider the best hotel in ,germany1 having capital restaurants1 serving table-d'hote meals1 attached to them4 ,the ,rose has a little terrace1 looking on to the gardens1 which is a pleasant supping-place4 ,the old ,kurhaus1 a tumble-down building1 is disappearing or has disappeared1 and a new and gorgeous building is to take its place4 ,the restaurant at the old ,kurhaus always had a good reputation1 and to eat one's evening meal1 for every one sups and does not dine1 at one of its little tables under the trees1 looking at the lake beneath the moonshine and listening to the band1 was one of the pleasures of ,wiesbaden4 ,it was fairly cheap1 and ,i thought the food well cooked1 and served as hot as one could expect it in the open air4 ,i have little doubt that the new restaurant will carry on the pleasant ways of the old one4 ,the proprietor is ,herr ,ruthe1 who is caterer to several crowned heads1 and who is always on the spot and delighted to be consulted as to the dishes to be ordered for a dinner4 ,the wine-house1 the ,rathskeller1 is one of the sights of the place4 ,therein are quaint frescoes and furniture1 there the usual ,german food is obtainable1 and you have a choice of ,german wines such as is obtainable in few other wine-drinking places in ,germany4 ,any one who likes the open tarts of apple and other fruits--a rather sticky delicacy it always seems to me--can eat them at ease of an afternoon looking at the beautiful view from the ,neroberg or watching the ,rhine from under the trees of the hotel gardens at ,biebrich4 ,baden-,baden ,the first-class hotels in ,baden-,baden are so well catered for that few people wander abroad to take their food1 but the restaurant of the ,conversation ,haus is a good one4 ,the little restaurant1 with a shady terrace on the ,alte-,schloss ,hohenbaden1 has achieved celebrity for its trout au bleu and good cookery1 and the marvellous view over the ,rhine valley makes it a notable little place4 ,there are many refreshment-places on the roads along which the patients take their walks1 but as milk is the staple nourishment sold1 they hardly find a place in a guide for gourmets4 ,the wines of the ,duchy1 both red and white1 are excellent4 ,ems ,ems has a restaurant in the ,kursaal1 near which the band plays in the evening1 said to be fairly good2 and there is a restaurant close to the ,baderlei1 the cliff of rock crowned by a tower1 and another on the summit of the ,malberg1 the hill up which the wire-rope railway runs2 but ,i have only meagre information as to whether the food obtainable at them is good1 bad1 or indifferent4 ,aachen 7,aix-la-,chapelle7 ,henrion's ,grand ,hotel is the favourite dining-place of the ,anglo-,saxon colony in ,aachen4 ,m4 ,intra1 the proprietor1 lays himself out to attract the ,english4 ,the ,german civil servants and the doctors have a club-table at which they dine1 and they exact fines from the members of their club for drinking wine which costs more than a certain price1 etc41 etc41 these fines being collected in a box and saved until they make a sum large enough to pay for a special dinner4 ,every member of this club is required to leave in his will a money legacy to the club to be expended in wine drunk to his memory4 ,there are two table-d'hote meals at #a4cj and at #g ,p4,m4 ,at the first the dishes are cooked according to the ,german cuisine1 at the second according to the ,french4 ,suppers are served in the restaurant at any hour4 ,lennertz's restaurant and oyster-saloon in the ,klostergasse is a curious1 low-ceilinged1 old-fashioned house which1 before ,henrion's came into favour1 had most of the ,british patronage4 ,its cooking is excellent1 and the ,german ,hausfraus used to be sent to ,lennertz's to study for their noble calling4 ,the carte de jour has not many dishes on it4 ,everything has to be ordered a la carte1 though the prices are reasonable1 and it is possible to make a bargain that a dinner shall be given for a fixed price4 ,the ,omelettes ,soufflees are a speciality of the house4 ,the fish used at ,lennertz's comes from ,ostend1 and the ,dutch oysters are excellent4 ,a restaurant opposite the theatre has good cookery but is expensive4 ,henry1 who presides over the ,anglo-,american bar in the ,kaiser ,passage1 is an excellent cook and turns out wonderful dishes with the aid of a chafing-dish4 ,he learned his cookery at the ,waldorf1 and at the ,grand1 in ,paris4 ,his partner1 ,charlie1 is of the ,cafe de ,paris1 ,monte ,carlo4 ,another ,american bar where food is obtainable is in the ,grand ,monarque ,hotel4 ,the ,alt-,bayern in ,wirischsbongardstrasse is the beer-house which is most to be recommended2 and the ,germania1 in ,friedrich-,williamplatz1 is celebrated for its coffee4 ,kiel ,kiel ,harbour is as beautiful and picturesque a spot as one can well imagine4 ,the approach to it from the ,elbe by the ,kaiser ,wilhelm ,canal--#eb miles long1 #gj yards broad1 and about #cj feet deep1 with pretty banks on either side1 is part of the river ,eider4 ,it is lighted along its entire length with electric lamps1 and constitutes as pleasant a waterway as one can desire4 ,the hotels and restaurants are neither numerous nor recherche1 and1 with the exception of the sailor's rendezvous1 are mostly closed during the winter4 ,the ,seebadeanstalt is about the best restaurant2 it was built by ,herr ,krupp and is managed by an ,englishman4 ,above it are the fine rooms of the ,imperial ,yacht ,club4 ,these1 during the regatta week1 which generally takes place at the end of ,june1 are crowded with yachtsmen of all nationalities1 to whom the ,kaiser dispenses most gracious hospitality4 ,when the extensive anchorage1 surrounded by green and wooded hills1 is full of every description of yacht1 foremost among which is the ,hohenzollern and many ,german battleships1 it forms a scene at once impressive and gay4 ,one can hardly blame the ,germans for annexing it1 however galling its annexation by ,germany must have been to its former owners4 ,the ,hotel ,germania has a very fair restaurant attached to it4 ,the ,rathskeller is well-conducted1 and was built by the municipal authorities4 ,the ,weinstuben1 ,paul ,fritz1 is a good refreshment-place1 but is mostly frequented by the students and officers4 ,the ,seegarten is a pretty little place overlooking the harbour1 where ,german beer is the principal article of commerce4 ,at the ,muenchener ,buergerbrau the beer is good but the surroundings dismal4 ,hamburg ,at ,hamburg is to be found ,pfordte's ,restaurant1 which has gained a ,european reputation2 indeed1 it is spoken of as the ,paillard's of ,north ,germany4 ,the following description of the restaurant is from the pen of an ,english habitue of the house3-- ,pfordte's ,restaurant1 which dates back to the year #ahbh1 was originally one of the numerous ,kellers or cellars which are situated in many of the basements of the houses near the ,alster and ,bourse at ,hamburg4 ,their function is to provide luncheons1 dinners1 or suppers1 and their chief specialites are oysters1 lobsters1 other shell-fish1 game1 and truffles4 ,they are much frequented by business men for luncheon1 and by playgoers for supper after the theatre4 ,mr4 ,wilkins was the first proprietor1 and in #ahdb it was in the hands of a company4 ,in #ahfj ,pfordte1 who had become director of this ,keller1 aimed at higher things4 ,being a good organiser and administrator1 he eventually moved the ,keller to the street that runs from the ,alster ,dam to the ,rathaus gardens1 and there1 at the corner of the gardens1 established a restaurant which is one of the best in the world4 ,pfordte is a man of small stature but of most courteous and polished manners1 and is no exception to the general rule that small men have usually great brains4 ,his restaurant is facile princeps of all the houses of entertainment at ,hamburg where riches abound1 and where good cheer is scientifically appreciated4 ,entering the establishment from the street1 you find yourself in a fair-sized hall1 where a deferential servant in livery is prompt to relieve men of their overcoats and ladies of their wraps4 ,on the left1 a large folding-door gives entrance to three public rooms en suite which look out on the ,rathaus gardens1 and are furnished with small tables--some for two1 some for four1 some for six persons4 ,here a most excellent dinner or luncheon can be obtained at short notice4 ,the service is capital4 ,the waiters are ,german1 but appear to be conversant with every tongue in the world4 ,all sorts and conditions of men have to visit ,hamburg1 the great centre of maritime commerce in ,germany4 ,all seem to be able at ,pfordte's to give orders in their own language1 and find themselves understood4 ,english seems as much spoken here as ,german4 ,on the right of the entrance-hall1 a fine staircase leads to the first floor1 where are rooms for private parties of any number1 from two to a hundred4 ,hardly any important public dinner is held at ,hamburg which does not take place at ,pfordte's4 ,the cuisine is perfect4 ,the menus are original1 the wines are of the best4 ,if you are at ,hamburg in the proper season1 do not fail at ,pfordte's to order oysters1 trout from the hill streams1 partridge with apricots1 and truffes en serviette4 ,to the above there is but little to add except that there is a certain cosiness about ,pfordte's1 a sense of personal supervision1 which is difficult to define but which everybody who dines there feels and appreciates4 ,one ,londoner put it thus1 referring to the little rooms1 ,it's what ,kettner's ought to be4 ,i append a menu of a dinner of the day at ,pfordte's1 there being a choice of four or five dishes in each course4 ,the charge is #f marks4 ,this bill of fare is by no means an exceptionally good one4 ,indeed it is below the average rather than above4 ,the ,english adjective to the celery is used to distinguish it from celleriac or ,dutch celery1 which is largely used in salads in ,north ,germany4 ,the ,junger ,puter is a very little turkey poult4 ,it is to the turkey what the poussin is to the fowl3-- ,potage a la ,stuart4 ,potage creme d'orge a la ,viennoise4 ,potage puree de concombres au cerfeuil4 ,consomme ,xavier4 ,filets von ,seezungen 7soles7 a la ,joinville4 ,steinbutt 7turbot7 sauce moscovite4 ,rheinlachs kalt1 sauce mayonnaise4 ,boeuf braise a l'alsacienne4 ,rehbruecken 7venison7 a la ,conti4 ,lammviertel a la ,provencale4 ,roast-beef a la ,clamart4 ,artischoken sauce hollandaise4 ,salat braisirt mit jungen ,erbsen4 ,engl4 ,sellerie mit ,mark4 ,junge ,flageolets a la ,maitre4 ,spanishe ,pfefferschoten farcirt4 ,junge ,ente 7duckling74 ,rebhuhn 7partridge74 ,junge ,puter4 ,escarolle-,salat mit ,tomaten4 ,erdbeer-,eiscreme panache ,fruchttorte4 ,kase4 ,dress clothes are not de rigueur when dining at ,pfordte's4 ,bordeaux wines are a speciality of the house1 as indeed they are in every good restaurant in ,hamburg and ,bremen1 better claret being found in those cities than anywhere else outside ,france that ,i know of4 ,there is a celebrated picture in ,pfordte's hall which has a story attached to it4 ,the painter wished to give a dinner to his club friends1 and consulted ,pfordte as to the price4 ,pfordte said that he would supply the dinner1 and that the artist afterwards should paint him a picture4 ,the dinner was given to the entire club1 and was said to have been the best dinner ever served in ,germany3 the artist showed his appreciation of it by painting a masterpiece4 ,this is a specimen of one of ,pfordte's dinners of ceremony3-- ,nectar old sherry4 ,natives4 ,astrachan ,caviar4 ----- #ahid ,louis ,roederer ,potage ,malmesbury4 grand vin sec4 ----- ,truffes du ,perigord a la ,savarin4 ----- #ahgf ,geisenheimer ,saiblinge aus dem ,koenigssee4 ,hothenberg-,auslese4 ,bayrische ,sauce4 ----- #ahhi ,chat4 ,dauzac ,engl4 ,hammebruecken ,labarde 7,tischwein74 a la ,courdomage4 ----- #ahgh ,chat4 ,marquis ,cotelettes de ,macassins de ,therme4 a la ,montalembert4 ----- #ahfi ,clos ,st-,hobert4 ,supreme von ,strassburger ,gaenselebern in ,madeira4 ----- ,creme de ,chicorees aux pointes d'asperges vertes4 ,fonds d'artichauts a la ,st-,charles4 ----- #ahgd ,chat4 ,larose ,enten von ,rouen4 ,schloss-,olbzug4 ,salade a la ,francaise4 ----- ,moet and ,chandon ,pouding glace a la ,jules ,cremant blanc4 ,lecomte4 ----- ,dessert4 ,at the ,zoological ,gardens there is a good restaurant where one dines in a balcony overlooking the beer-garden1 in which a military band plays4 ,the oyster-cellars of ,hamburg are noted for their excellent lunches4 ,bouillon1 cutlets1 steaks1 caviar1 lachs1 and other viands are served1 and ,english porter1 generally ,combe's stout1 is much drunk4 ,another ,british production1 ,chester cheese1 which is red ,cheshire1 is much in demand4 ,at supper in these cellars1 and also in ,berlin1 caviar is much in demand1 the small black ,baltic variety1 not the ,russian1 which is lighter in colour and larger in grain4 ,a large pot of it is put on the table in a bowl of ice1 and your ,hamburger1 who is a good judge of victuals as he is of drink1 makes his supper of it4 ,the ,rathskeller of ,hamburg is in the modern ,rathhaus1 and is finely decorated in ,alt-deutsch style with frescoes and paintings by well-known artists4 ,in the summer gardens down the ,elbe1 good wines are to be obtained2 and at the ,faehrhaus at ,blauenesse4 ,the ,alster ,cafe is very beautifully situated4 ,it has three tiers of rooms1 and from its balconies one can look either landward or on to the river1 which at night1 with the lights reflected in its water1 is very beautiful4 ,the rooms of the cafe are decorated in the style of the seventeenth century4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,berlin ,up-to-date restaurants--,supping-places--,military cafes--,night restaurants4 ,twenty years ago ,berlin had no restaurant worthy of the name1 now of course they are plentiful2 in many instances1 however1 showy paintings1 bad gilding1 and heavy decorations seem to atone with a certain class of the public for inferior materiel and mediocre cookery4 ,the ,monopole part of the ,hotel-,restaurant ,l4 ,schaurte is first-rate1 and the set dinner for the price is as good as one could get anywhere4 ,i append an everyday menu which1 for #e marks1 ought to satisfy the most exacting customer4 ,the second soup is a ,consomme with quenelles4 ,the fish dishes are ,sole ,normande and ,turbot au ,gratin4 ,,menu4 ,from #b ,p4,m4 to #i ,p4,m4 ,haeringfilet nach ,daube4 ,mulligatawny-,suppe4 ,kraftbruehe mit ,einlage4 ,seezungenfilet auf normaennische ,art4 ,steinbutt in ,muscheln gratiniert4 ,eng4 ,roast-beef4 ,yorker ,schinken in ,burgunder4 ,spinat4 ,homard de ,norvege4 ,sauce ,ravigotte4 ,franzoes4 ,poularde4 ,fasan4 ,salat ,compot4 ,sellerie4 ,fuerst ,pueckler ,bombe4 ,kaese4 ,fruechte4 ,nachtisch4 ,estimated cost of two dinners at the ,restaurant ,schaurte 7,monopole73-- ,m4 ,pfgs4 ,dinner #e #jj #a_/b ,pontet ,canet 7#ahij7 #g #jj ,coffee #fj ,cognac #fj ------ #ac #bj ,m4 ,pfgs4 ,dinner #e #jj #a_/b ,roederer #h #ge 7#ahic ,reserve for ,england7 #a ,cognac 7#ahfj7 #ge ,coffee #fj ------ #ae #aj ,if you drink no wine with the above repast1 you are charged #f marks for the dinner instead of #e4 ,the wine charges are rather expensive1 otherwise there is no fault to be found4 ,this restaurant is a fashionable place at which to sup4 ,the ,bristol ,restaurant1 attached to the hotel of that name1 is also one of the best and answers1 on a reduced scale1 to the ,carlton ,restaurant in ,london2 you get as good a dinner at the ,bristol as you can wish to have1 especially if you interview ,mons4 ,maxim 7who was for a time in ,london7 the maitre-d'hotel1 a proceeding which will ensure your being well cared for4 ,in fact with regard to most restaurants1 it is always better1 in ,berlin as elsewhere in the world1 if you have time or happen to be passing that way1 to look in wherever you may have settled to dine1 choose your table1 and see what they propose to give you4 ,it simplifies and expedites matters on arriving1 especially if you are going on to some entertainment and have not much time to spare4 ,borchard's1 in the ,franzoesischerstrasse1 is a capital place to drop in to lunch1 as there is a cold buffet there with every sort of ,delikatesse4 ,you can get a very good dinner there1 and the wines are of excellent quality4 ,the attaches of the ,british ,embassy patronise it1 and it is to the ,bristol in ,berlin what ,claridge's is to the ,carlton in ,london4 ,the ,hotel de ,rome has an excellent restaurant1 and many dinners of ceremony are given there4 ,this is the menu1 headed by the motto1 ,the ,tubercle ,bacillus will federate the ,world1 of a dinner given at the ,berlin by a distinguished ,british physician to some of his ,german colleagues of the great ,congress3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,consomme ,sevigne4 ,potage ,oxtail4 ,sole a la ,bordelaise4 ,filet de boeuf a la ,moderne4 ,cotelettes de ,foies gras aux ,truffes4 ,faisan ,roti4 ,compote ,salade4 ,asperges en branches4 ,prince ,pueckler4 ,fromage4 ,fruits4 ,the ,palast ,hotel and restaurant1 at the corner of the ,potsdamerplatz1 and the ,savoy in the ,friedrichstrasse are also excellent4 ,the ,hiller and the ,dressel1 in the ,unter den ,linden1 are bright1 pleasant1 and good restaurants4 ,dressel gives an excellent lunch for #b4ej and dinners for #c marks or #e4 ,this is a sample lunch3-- ,bouillon in ,tassen4 ,eier ,skobeleff4 ,seezunge gebacken1 ,sauce ,tartare4 ,kalbskopf aux ,champignons4 ,mutton ,chops4 ,pfirsich nach ,conde4 ,kaese4 ,the ,english bar in the ,passage is a grill-room and restaurant1 and ladies can lunch there1 though the sporting ,british element is rather too prominent4 ,in the evening it is frequented by the theatrical world and is practically open all night4 ,one can enjoy a peaceable supper there without having to pay the bill and leave shortly after one has sat down1 as is the custom in ,england4 ,kempinsky's1 in the ,leipzigerstrasse1 a very popular restaurant and always crowded1 rather corresponds to ,scott's in the ,haymarket4 ,here you get very good oysters 7when in season7 and excellent ,holstein crayfish1 lobsters1 etc4 ,the cook at this restaurant has an excellent manner of cooking lobsters1 called ,homard chaud au beurre truffe4 ,it consists of chopped truffles worked up into best fresh butter rolled out1 and then laid on the hot lobster4 ,i subjoin a menu1 in order to show the moderate charge for an extremely well-cooked dinner4 ,as a rule a portion of any dish on the bill of fare costs ,m4 #a4be4 ,,menu4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,consomme double a la ,moelle4 ,homard chaud au ,beurre ,truffe4 ,escaloppes de ,veau4 ,choux de ,bruxelles4 ,faisan ,roti4 ,salade4 ,fromage1 ,celeri4 ,cafe1 ,cigare4 #a ,bottle ,german ,champagne4 ,for two people1 including the champagne1 the total came to #ab marks #ge #abs4 #i;d4 ,as to the ,german champagne1 ,sect1 as it is called1 they are now making very pleasant light wines of this character in the country at very reasonable prices4 ,they are excellent of their sort1 though they are rarely kept long enough in the cellar1 and ,i should certainly advise their being tried1 in preference to paying heavily for soi-disant ,french brands which in ,germany are of very doubtful origin4 ,herb does not guarantee what we understand by dry4 ,if you wish to sample ,german dishes well and inexpensively1 you could not do better than go to the ,ruedesheimer in the ,friedrichstrasse4 ,the house can provide you with an excellent bottle of ,rhine wine1 having a special celebrity for this4 ,the ,reichshof1 in the ,wilhelmstrasse1 is a cafe of a more ,bohemian description4 ,it is most frequented towards the evening and for suppers after the theatres2 usually a first-class but very noisy band is engaged there4 ,it is also a good hotel4 ,it is next door to the ,british ,embassy4 ,there are also two cafes in which the military element predominates1 one might almost say exclusively4 ,these are ,topfer's and the ,prinz ,wilhelm1 both in the ,dorotheenstrasse4 ,here the officers usually lunch and make a general rendezvous1 often bringing their wives4 ,there are1 of course1 plenty of suburban cafes open in the summer1 but they are more refreshment establishments1 and appeal rather to the general public than to the higher class2 they are opened or closed according to the seasons4 ,bauer's1 in ,unter den ,linden1 is also a well-known cafe1 and is much frequented by the ,berliners2 it is1 however1 more of the refreshment saloon class1 and is patronised by a large newspaper-reading public1 from the fact that there are few of the leading publications in all languages that you would fail to find here4 ,this cafe has become a general rendezvous in the afternoon and evening1 and everything supplied there is of the best quality4 ,the walls are decorated with paintings by the eminent ,german artists of thirty years ago4 ,upstairs1 between #e and #f ,p4,m41 one sees many of the people of the world of the theatres and music halls4 ,at ,ewest1 just off the ,friedrichstrasse1 there are two or three little quiet dining-rooms4 ,the management is not anxious to find accommodation for any except old customers1 but the best wine in ,berlin is to be obtained there4 ,the ,kaiserkeller1 with its rooms decorated splendidly in various styles1 one after the model of the ,luebeck ,schiffergesellschaft1 and others after other famous ,german rooms1 is one of the sights of ,berlin4 ,it retains an army of cooks and its wine-list is a wonderful one4 ,if you wish to see the rowdy student life of ,berlin1 the ,bohemian festivity which corresponds to the life of ,paris in the cabarets of ,montmartre1 and if you speak ,german1 go to the ,bauernschaenke1 which has obtained a celebrity for the violence and rudeness of its proprietor1 who1 as ,lisbonne and ,bruant used to1 and ,alexander does in the cabarets of the ,city of ,light1 insults his customers to the uttermost and turns out any one who objects4 ,die ,raeuberhohle is an inferior imitation of ,die ,bauernschaenke4 ,a noted night restaurant is ,der ,zum ,weissen ,roessl1 in which each room is decorated to represent some typical street in ,berlin4 ,this is a hostel much frequented by artists4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,switzerland ,lucerne--,basle--,bern--,geneva--,davos ,platz4 ,switzerland is a country of hotels and not of restaurants4 ,in most of the big towns the hotels have restaurants attached to them1 and in some of these a dinner ordered a la carte is just as well cooked as in a good ,french restaurant1 and served as well2 in other restaurants attached to good hotels the table-d'hote dinner is served at separate tables at any time between certain hours1 and this is the custom of most of the restaurants in most of the better class of hotels4 ,there is in every little mountain-hotel a restaurant2 but this is generally used only by invalids1 or very proud persons1 or mountaineers coming back late from a climb4 ,there is no country in which the gourmet has to adapt himself so much to circumstances and in which he does it1 thanks to exercise and mountain air1 with such a ,chesterfieldian grace4 ,i have seen the man who1 at the restaurants of the ,schweitzerhof or ,national at ,lucerne1 ate a perfectly cooked little meal which he had ordered a la carte on the day of his arrival in ,switzerland1 and who was hoping to find something to grumble at1 sitting in peace two days later eating the table-d'hote meal at a little table in the restaurant of one of the hotels at ,lauzanne or ,vevey1 ,montreux or ,territet1 after a walk along the lake side or up the mountain to ,caux1 and four days after one at a long table at ,zermatt or the ,riffel ,alp1 talking quite happily to perfect strangers on either side of him and eating the menu through from end to end1 more conscious of the splendid appetite a day on the glaciers had given him than of what he is eating4 ,switzerland entirely demoralises the judgment of a gourmet1 for its mountain air gives it undue advantages over most other countries1 and an abundant appetite has a way of paralysing all the finer critical faculties4 ,at one period all hotels in ,switzerland were run on one simple1 cheap1 easy plan4 ,there were meals at certain hours1 there was a table in the big room for the ,english1 another for the ,germans1 and another for mixed nationalities4 ,if any one came late for a meal1 so much the worse for him or her1 for they had to begin at the course which was then going round4 ,if travellers appeared when dinner was half over1 they had to wait till it was quite finished2 and then1 as a favour1 the maitre-d'hotel would instruct a waiter to ask the cook to send the late comers in something to eat1 which was generally some of the relics of the just-completed feast1 the odours of which still hung about the great empty dining-hall4 ,i fancy that it is a matter of history that ,m4 ,ritz1 who has since become the ,napoleon of hotels1 coming as manager to the ,national at ,lucerne and finding this system in practice1 put an end to it at once and started the restaurant there1 which was and is quite first class4 ,whether some one else was making history at the ,schweitzerhof at the same time in the same way ,i do not know1 but the two hotels have run neck and neck in the excellence of their restaurants1 and not only are they first rate1 but1 as is always the case1 the average of the cooking at the other hotels has gone up in sympathy1 as the doctors would say1 with the two leading caravanserais1 and one usually finds that any one who has stayed at ,lucerne has a good word to say for his hotel4 ,i was once at ,lucerne during race week1 and was doubtful whether ,i should find a room vacant at either of the hotels ,i usually stay at4 ,a charming old priest1 who was a fellow-voyager1 suggested to me that ,i should come to a little hotel hard by the river2 and there1 though the room ,i was given was of the very old continental pattern1 the dinner my friend ordered for himself and me was quite excellent4 ,i have breakfasted at the buffet at the station and found it very clean1 and the simple food was well cooked4 ,there is a restaurant at the ,kursaal1 but ,i have never had occasion to breakfast or dine there4 ,in ,northern ,switzerland some of the towns have restaurants which are not attached to hotels1 and ,basle has quite a number of them1 though the interest attaching to most of them is due to the quaintness of the buildings they are in or the fine view to be obtained from them rather than from any particular excellence of cookery or any surprisingly good cellar4 ,the restaurant in the ,kunsthalle1 for instance1 is ornamented by some good wall paintings2 and by the old bridge there is a restaurant with a pleasant terrace overlooking the river4 ,there is a good cellar at the ,schutzenhaus1 and there is music and a pretty garden as an attraction to take visitors out to the ,summer ,casino4 ,of the ,bern restaurants much the same is to be said as of the ,basle ones4 ,historical paintings are thought more of than the cook's department4 ,the ,kornhauskeller1 in the basement of the ,kornhaus1 is a curious place and worth a visit for a meal4 ,at the ,schauzli1 on a rise opposite the town1 from the terrace of which there is a splendid view and where there is a summer theatre1 there is a cafe-restaurant1 and another on the ,garten1 a hill whence another fine view is obtainable4 ,geneva1 for its size and importance1 is the worst catered for capital in ,europe4 ,outside the hotel restaurants1 none of which have attained any special celebrity1 there are but few restaurants1 and those not of any conspicuous merit4 ,there is a restaurant in the noisy ,kursaal1 and two in the ,rue de ,rhone1 and most of the cafes on the ,grand ,quai are feeding-places as well2 but ,i never ate a dinner yet in ,geneva--and ,i have known the place man and boy1 as they say in nautical melodrama1 for thirty-five years--that was worth remembering2 and though the trout are as palatable as they were when ,cambaceres used to import them to ,france for his suppers1 ,i have never tasted the ,ombre ,chevalier of which ,hayward wrote appreciatively4 ,there are two little out-of-door restaurants which are amusing to breakfast at during the summer4 ,one is in the ,jardin ,anglais and the other in the ,jardin des ,bastions4 ,at each a cheap table-d'hote meal is served at little tables4 ,there is also a restaurant in the ,park des ,eaux ,vives4 ,on the borders of the ,lake of ,geneva there are many good hotels1 though some of the best of them pick and choose their visitors1 and writing beforehand does not mean that a room will be found for a bachelor who only intends to stay a few days4 ,the better the hotel the better the restaurant1 and if the haughty hotel porter at the station says ,no very courteously when you look appealingly at him and ask if a room has been kept for you1 the only way is to try the next on your list4 ,fresh-water fish1 fruit1 cheese1 honey1 are all excellent by the lake1 and the wines of the ,rhone valley are some of them excellent4 ,at ,lauzanne1 ,vevey1 ,montreux1 ,territet1 the wines of the country are well worth tasting1 for in the valley above ,villeneuve there are a dozen vineyards each producing an excellent wine2 and the vines imported from the ,rhine valley1 from the ,bordeaux and ,burgundy districts1 give wine which is excellent to drink and curious as well1 when the history of the vine is known4 ,always ask what the local cheese is4 ,there are varieties of all kinds1 and they afford a change from the eternal slab of ,gruyere4 ,of course ,switzerland has its surprises like every other country1 and one does not expect to find an ex-head chef of ,claridge's running a little restaurant by a lake in the ,swiss mountains4 ,mr4 ,elsener1 who is this benefactor to humanity1 was the head of the catering department at the ,imperial ,institute when a very praiseworthy effort was made to make a smart dining place in the arid waste called a garden in the centre of the buildings2 and he also catered for the ,coldstream ,guards1 so that he started business with a good clientele4 ,as a sample of what can be done on the mountain heights1 ,i give the menu of one of the dinners served by ,elsener at the restaurant ,villa ,fortuna3-- ,huitres d',ostende4 ,consomme ,riche4 ,filet de ,sole au ,vin ,blanc4 ,tournedos a l',othello4 ,petits ,pois4 ,pommes paille4 ,vol-au-vent a la ,banquier4 ,aspic de foie gras en belle vue4 ,melons ,glace ,venitienne4 ,petit ,fours4 ,omelette a la ,madras4 ,petit ,souffle au ,parmesan4 ,dessert4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,italy ,italian cookery and wines--,turin--,milan--,genoa--,venice-- ,bologna--,spezzia--,florence--,pisa--,l eghorn--,rome--,naples--,palermo4 ,italian ,cookery ,there is no cookery in ,europe so often maligned without cause as that of ,italy4 ,people who are not sure of their facts often dismiss it contemptuously as being all garlic and oil1 whereas very little oil is used except at ,genoa1 where oil1 and very good oil as a rule1 takes the place of butter1 and no more garlic than is necessary to give a slight flavour to the dishes in which it plays a part4 ,an ,italian cook frys better than one of any other nationality4 ,in the north very good meat is obtainable1 the boiled beef of ,turin being almost equal to our own ,silverside4 ,farther and farther south1 as the climate becomes hotter1 the meat becomes less and less the food of the people1 various dishes of paste and fish taking its place1 and as a compensation the fruit and the wine become more delicious4 ,the fowls and figs of ,tuscany1 the white truffles of ,piedmont1 the artichokes of ,rome1 the walnuts and grapes of ,sorrento1 might well stir a gourmet to poetic flights4 ,the ,italians are very fond of their ,risotto1 the rice which they eat with various seasonings1--with sauce1 with butter1 and with more elaborate preparations4 ,they also eat their ,paste asciutte in various forms4 ,it is ,maccheroni generally in ,naples1 ,spagetti in ,rome1 ,trinetti in ,genoa4 ,alla ,siciliana and con ,vongole are but two of the many ways of seasoning the ,spagetti4 ,again1 the delicate little envelopes of paste containing forcemeat of some kind or another change their names according to their contents and the town they are made in4 ,they are ,ravioli both at ,genoa and ,florence1 but at ,bologna they are ,capeletti1 and at ,turin ,agnolotti4 ,perpadelle1 another pasta dish with a little difference of seasoning1 becomes ,tettachine when the venue changes from ,bologna to ,rome4 ,there are many minor differences in the components of similarly named dishes at different towns2 the ,minestrone of ,milan and ,genoa differ1 and so does the ,fritto ,misto of ,rome and ,turin4 ,i fancy that1 as a compensation1 only an expert could tell the difference between the soups di ,vongole at ,naples1 di ,dattero at ,spezzia1 and di ,peoci at ,venice4 ,the ,zabajone the sweet1 frothing drink beaten up with eggs and sugar1 is made differently in different towns4 ,at ,milan and ,turin ,marsala and brandy are used in it2 at ,venice ,cyprus wine is the foundation2 and elsewhere three wines are used4 ,it is a splendidly sustaining drink1 whether drunk hot or iced1 and ,italian doctors order it in cases of depression1 and it might well find a place in the household recipes of ,english and ,american households4 ,the wines of the various towns ,i have noted in writing of them4 ,vino nostrano or del paese brings from the waiter his list of the local juice of the grape1 and the wine of the district is the wine to drink4 ,roughly speaking1 the red wine is the best throughout ,italy1 the white of ,bologna and the ,veneto being the exceptions4 ,finally1 do not be alarmed if at a trattoria a waiter puts before you a huge flask of wine4 ,it has been weighed before it is brought to you4 ,it will be weighed when the waiter takes it away after you have finished1 and what you have drunk1 plus the great gulp the waiter is sure to take if he gets a chance1 is what you will be charged for4 ,the ,anglo-,saxon travelling in ,italy is likely to strike ,turin1 or ,milan1 or ,genoa as his first big town1 according to the route he has chosen1 and those are therefore the three towns the capabilities of which ,i shall first try to describe4 ,turin ,you will be fed well enough at your hotel whether you are at the ,grand1 or ,kraft's1 or the ,trombetta1 but if you want to test the cookery of the town ,i should suggest a visit to the ,ristorante della ,meridiana1 which is in the ,via ,santa ,theresa1 the street which joins the ,piazza ,solferino and ,san ,carlo2 or to the ,ristorante del ,cambio1 which is in the ,piazza ,carignano1 where stands a marble statue of a philosopher and which has a couple of palaces as close neighbours4 ,at these1 or at the ,lagrange and ,nazionale1 both in the ,via ,lagrange1 you will get the dishes of ,turin4 ,if you wish to commence with hors-d'oeuvre1 try the ,pepperoni1 which are large yellow or red chillies preserved in pressed grapes and served with oil and vinegar1 salt and pepper4 ,the ,grissini1 the little thin sticks of bread which are made in ,turin and are famous for their digestible quality1 will be by your plate4 ,next ,i should suggest the ,busecca1 though it is rather satisfying1 being a thick soup of tripe and vegetables2 and then must come a great delicacy1 the trout from the ,mount ,cenis lake4 ,for a meat course1 if the boiled beef of the place1 always excellent1 is too serious an undertaking1 or if the ,frittura ,mista is too light1 let me recommend the ,rognone ,trifolato1 veal kidney stewed in butter with tomatoes and other good things1 including a little ,marsala wine4 ,the white ,piedmontese truffles served as a salad1 or with a hot sauce1 must on no account be overlooked2 nor the ,cardons1 the white thistle1 served with the same sauce2 nor indeed the ,zucchini ,ripieni1 which are stuffed pumpkins2 and some ,fonduta1 the cheese of the country1 melted in butter and eggs and sprinkled with white truffles1 will form a fitting end to your repast unless you feel inclined for the biscuits of ,novara1 or ,gianduiotti1 which are chocolates or nougat from ,alba or ,cremona where they make violins as well as sweets4 ,you should drink the wine of the country1 ,barbera or ,barolo1 ,nebiolo or ,freisa2 and ,i expect1 if you really persevere through half the dishes ,i have indicated1 that you will be glad of a glass of ,moscato with the fruit4 ,take your coffee at the ,cafe ,romano if you long for local colour4 ,milan ,in the town of arcades1 white marble1 and veal cutlets ,i generally eat my breakfast at one of the window tables of the ,biffi1 from which one sees the wonderful crowd--well-groomed officers of the ,bersaglieri1 the pretty ladies1 the wondering peasants--that goes through the great ,galleria2 but if there is no window table available1 and the head waiter fails to understand why he should give a table retained for a constant patron to a bird of passage1 ,i go to the ,savini1 also in the great arcade1 where ,i think the food is rather better cooked1 but which has not the same tempting outlook4 ,in the evening1 if it is a cold day1 ,i dine at the ,orlogio1 at the corner of the great square1 a restaurant which some men find fault with1 but where ,i have always been well treated2 but if the day is hot1 ,i as often as not go to the ,cova1 near the ,scala1 where a band plays after dinner in the garden4 ,such is my usual round1 with a night-cap at the ,gambrinus if ,i have been to one of the theatres2 but ,i am penitently aware that my circle is a small one1 and ,i am told that ,i should take the ,de ,albertis and the ,isola ,botta into my list4 ,wherever one dines and wherever one breakfasts there are certain ,milanese dishes which one should order4 ,the ,minestrone soup is a dish which is not only found all ,italy over but which is popular in ,austria and on the ,french ,riviera as well2 but the ,minestrone alla ,milanese1 with its wealth of vegetables and suspicion of ,parmesan1 is especially excellent4 ,the ,risotto ,milanese1 rice slightly saute in butter1 then boiled in capon broth1 and finally seasoned with ,parmesan and saffron1 is one of the celebrated ,milanese dishes1 but the simpler methods of serving ,risotto1 al sugo1 al burro1 or con fegatini suit better those who do not like saffron2 or better still is a very well-known dish of another town1 ,risotto ,certosino1 in which the rice is seasoned with a sauce of crayfish and garnished with their tails4 ,then come the various manners of cooking veal1 the ,cotelette a la ,milanese1 cutlets plunged in beaten eggs and fried in butter after being crumbed1 and others stewed with a little red wine and flavoured with rosemary2 and the ,cotelette alla ,marsigliese1 of batter1 then ham1 then meat which1 when fried1 is one of the dishes of the populace on a feast-day4 ,ossobuco1 a shin of veal cut into slices and stewed with a flavouring of lemon rind1 is another veal dish2 and so is the delicate ,fritto ,picatto of calf's brains1 liver1 and tiny slices of flesh4 ,polpette a la ,milanese are forcemeat balls stewed4 ,panettone are the cakes of the city and are much eaten at ,carnival time4 ,stracchino or ,crescenza is a cheese much like the ,french ,brie4 ,gorgonzola all the world knows well2 and though ,parmesan takes its name from that ,duchess of ,parma who introduced it into ,france1 the best quality comes from ,lodi1 near ,milan4 ,val ,policella and ,valle d',inferno are the wines to drink4 ,genoa ,genoa is a town of noise and bustle4 ,the worst curse one ,genoese can pronounce to another is ,may the grass grow before your door4 ,the ,genoese restaurants have not the best reputation in the world for either cleanliness or quiet2 but at the ,concordia1 in the ,via ,garibaldi1 you will find a cool and pleasant garden2 and at the ,gottardo you will discover the ,genoese cookery in all its oily perfection1 for the important difference between the cuisine of ,genoa and of every other ,italian town is that all its dishes are prepared with olive oil instead of butter4 ,of course ,genoa has its own especial ,minestrone soup flavoured with ,pesto1 a paste in which pounded basil1 garlic1 ,sardinia cheese1 and olive oil are used2 and the fish dishes are ,stocafisso alla ,genovese1 stock-fish stewed with tomatoes and sometimes with potatoes as well1 and a fry of red mullet1 and ,moscardini1 which are cuttle-fish1 oblong in shape and redolent of musk4 ,the tripe of ,genoa is as celebrated as that of ,caen1 and the ,vitello ,uccelletto1 little squares of veal saute with fresh tomatoes in oil and red wine1 is a very favourite dish4 ,the ,ravioli ,i have already written of4 ,the ,faina somewhat resembles ,yorkshire pudding made with pease-powder and oil4 ,funghi a ,fungetto are the wild red mushrooms stewed in oil with thyme and tomatoes1 and ,meizanne is a small1 bitter egg-plant1 only found on the ,riviera1 stuffed with a cheese paste and then fried4 ,pasqualina is an ,easter pie4 ,the figs of ,genoa are excellent4 ,the wines are those delle cinque terre1 and in some of the cellars you will find them dating back sixty years or more4 ,venice ,the city on the lagoons is the next town to be considered1 for ,verona has scarcely a cuisine of its own1 and ,padua sends its best food to the ,venetian market1 and its ,bagnoli wine as well4 ,the ,restaurant ,quadri1 on the north side of the ,piazza of ,st4 ,mark1 is one of the best-known restaurants in ,europe1 and it is not expensive1 for one can breakfast there well enough for #d francs4 ,a gourmet of my acquaintance thus describes a typical breakfast at the ,quadri4 ,when you go to the restaurant do not be induced to go upstairs where the tourists are generally invited1 but take a little table on the ground floor1 where you can see all the piazza life1 and begin with a ,vermouth ,amaro1 in lieu of a cocktail4 ,for hors-d'oeuvre have some small crabs1 cold1 mashed up with ,sauce ,tartare1 and perhaps a slice or two of ,presciuto ,crudo1 raw ham cut as thin as cigarette-paper4 ,after this a steaming ,risotto1 with ,scampe1 somewhat resembling gigantic prawns4 ,some cutlets done in ,bologna style1 a thin slice of ham on top and hot ,parmesan and grated white truffles and ,fegato alla ,veneziana complete the repast1 except for a slice of ,strachino cheese4 ,a bottle of ,val ,policella is exactly suited to this kind of repast1 and a glass of fine-champagne 7,de ,luze7 for yourself and of ruby-coloured ,alkermes for the lady1 if your wife accompanies you1 makes a good ending4 ,the maitre-d'hotel1 who looks like a retired ambassador1 will be interested in you directly he finds that you know how a man should breakfast4 ,the restaurant which comes next in order in popularity with visitors is the ,bauer-,grunwald1 in the ,via ,ventidue ,marzo1 which has a garden with seats in it2 but this is a ,german house1 and can scarcely claim to represent anything ,venetian4 ,the ,capello ,nero1 in the ,merceria1 behind the ,piazza of ,st4 ,mark1 is thoroughly ,venetian and unpretentious1 and there you may obtain the real cookery of the town2 and another such trattoria attached to an hotel is the ,cavalletto1 by the ,ponte ,cavalletto1 close to the great square2 but the ,venetian cookery1 it should be thoroughly understood1 is not eaten in ,parisian surroundings4 ,at the ,florian ,cafe1 which in the summer keeps open all the night through1 one gets the frothing ,zabajone made so stiff that a spoon stands upright in it4 ,there are many birrerie in ,venice1 the ,dreher being one frequented by the ,italians4 ,the ,zuppa di ,peoci is a soup made from the little shell-fish called peoci in ,venice1 and appearing under other names at ,spezzia and ,naples1 and so fond are the ,venetians of it that they flavour their rice with sauce made from it and call it ,riso coi peoci4 ,baccala1 or salt-cod1 and ,calamai1 little cuttle-fish or octopi1 looking and tasting like fried strips of soft leather1 are native dishes not to be recommended2 but the ,anguille di ,comacchio1 the great eels from ,comacchio1 grilled on the spit between bay leaves1 or fried or stewed1 are excellent4 ,another ,venetian dish which ,i can strongly recommend is the ,fegato alla ,veneziana1 calf liver cut into thin slices1 fried with onions in butter1 and flavoured with lemon juice4 ,stewed larks1 with a pudding of ,veronese flour1 are satisfying1 and a sausage from the neighbouring ,treviso1 which also gives its name to the ,radici di ,treviso1 is much esteemed4 ,the ,pucca baruca is one of the big yellow pumpkins baked4 ,the wines are1 of course1 those of the mainland1 ,conegliano from ,treviso and ,val ,policella from ,verona4 ,bologna ,bologna la grassa does not belie its nick-name1 and it is said that the matronly ladies1 all over forty1 who cook for the rotund priests1 are the cordons bleus of ,italy4 ,the restaurant of the ,hotel ,brun is the one where the passing ,anglo-,saxon generally takes his meals and a chat with the proprietor1 who is generally addressed as ,frank1 is entertaining1 for he owns vineyards behind the town1 which he is happy to show to any one interested in vine-culture1 and he makes his wine after the ,french manner4 ,the ,hotel d',italie is more an ,italian house1 and the ,stella d',italia1 in the ,via ,rizzoli1 is the typical popular restaurant of the town4 ,at the ,albergo ,roma1 on the ,via d',azeglio1 ,i have lunched on good food for a couple of francs4 ,the ,coppaletti ,i have already referred to4 ,the ,perpadelle col ,ragout are made of the same dough as the ,french nouilles1 in narrow strips boiled and seasoned with minced meat and ,parmesan cheese4 ,another variety of this ,perpadelle alla ,bolognese has minced ham as a seasoning4 ,then come the far-famed sausages1 the great ,codeghino1 boiled and served with spinach or mashed potatoes2 the large1 ball-shaped ,mortadella1 which is sometimes eaten raw2 and the stuffed foreleg of a pig1 which is boiled and served with spinach and mashed potatoes and which is a dish the ,bolognese conveyed from ,verona4 ,the wines are ,san ,giovese and ,lambresco4 ,spezzia ,not at ,spezzia itself1 but at ,porto ,venere on the promontory at the entrance to the bay1 will the gourmet find the ,zuppa di ,datteri1 which is the great delicacy of the gulf4 ,the dattero is a shell-fish which in shape resembles a date stone4 ,it has a very delicate taste1 and is eaten stewed with tomatoes and served with a layer of toast4 ,the little inn1 ,del ,genio1 is not too clean1 but the landlord will tell you that ,byron and ,shelley made no complaints when they lived there and that they had a thorough appreciation of the dainty datteri4 ,byron is said to have written most of his ,corsair in a grotto at ,porto ,venere1 and ,shelley was cast up drowned on the sand across the gulf4 ,florence ,if you wish to be aristocratic in ,florence you will lunch at ,capitani's in the ,via ,tornabuoni1 and in the afternoon you will lounge about the street until it is time to drink tea and eat cake at ,giacosa's1 or ,doney's1 or the ,albion1 or ,digerini's1 and ,marinari's venture1 next door to the library1 after which you will look in at ,vieusseux's to see if there is any news a-foot4 ,you will then have eaten a very fair lunch cooked a la ,francaise1 and will have met in the course of the afternoon all your fellow country-men and country-women resident in ,florence4 ,if1 however1 you want to sample ,florentine cookery1 you will fly from the splendours of the road which leads to the bridge of the ,trinity and will try ,mellini's in the ,via ,calzajoli1 which runs from the ,piazza della ,signoria to that of the cathedral1 where you will find both ,german and ,italian dishes2 or if you wish to test the native art1 untouched by ,teuton heaviness1 go to ,la ,toscana in the same street4 ,there you will find comparative quiet1 and you can be quite sure that the fish you order will be fresh1 for it is sent daily direct from ,leghorn1 where the owner of ,la ,toscana has a branch establishment4 ,at night the ,gambrinus in one corner of the ,piazza ,vittorio ,emmanuele rocks with sound1 a band plays at intervals1 and till long past midnight red and white wine and most indifferent cigarettes are called for by the revellers4 ,this is hardly a place at which ladies would enjoy themselves1 and still less should they be taken to ,paoli's--where the young ,florentines amuse themselves with good oysters and bad company until the small hours of the morning grow big--or to ,picciolo's4 ,the ,cafe la ,rosa is a typical haunt of the submerged tenth1 with a corrosive drink of its own4 ,there are not very many dishes distinctively ,florentine4 ,stracotto1 braised beef with tomatoes1 is one of them2 and ,fegatini di pollo1 giblets stewed in wine sauce1 is another4 ,the ,tuscan fowls are especially esteemed1 and are roasted before a wood fire2 and there is a special ,florentine salad of haricot beans generally served with caviar4 ,the figs1 of many kinds1 are delicious1 and ,presciutto con fichi1 fresh figs and ham1 are eaten all over ,tuscany4 ,the chestnuts from the ,appenines are the best flavoured in ,italy4 ,chianti is the local wine4 ,the ,aurora is the restaurant to be patronised at ,fiesoli4 ,it has a little garden whence there is a fine view4 ,pisa ,the ,nettuno at ,pisa is the old-fashioned ,italian inn1 and it used to be the restaurant patronised by the officers of the garrison1 but for some reason they quarrelled with the proprietor and transferred their custom to the other ,italian restaurant and inn1 the ,cervia4 ,pisa prides itself on its puddings and confectionary4 ,the ,pattona and ,castagnacci1 both alla ,pisana1 are puddings made of chestnut flour and olive oil1 and flavoured with fruit4 ,schiacciata are ,easter cakes4 ,in the afternoon1 after a walk on the ,lungarno1 all the world of ,pisa goes to ,bazzeli1 the pastry-cook's shop1 and there you may find the elders of the town and the high officers of the garrison1 talking over affairs of ,state while they demolish many little cakes4 ,leghorn ,an ,englishman who knows his ,leghorn thoroughly1 writes thus3-- ,the restaurant of the ,albergo ,giappone is one of the most famous eating-houses in ,tuscany4 ,the kitchen is not merely ,italian1 it is wholly ,tuscan1 and the ,tuscan kitchen in skilful hands appears to content both the gourmet and the gourmand4 ,affairs once brought a distinguished ,english gourmet on a brief visit to ,leghorn1 and accident 7for its fame had not preceded him7 took him to the ,giappone4 ,instead of staying three days1 he stayed three weeks1 so that he might ring all the changes of that wonderful menu1 and he has since publicly declared that the kitchen of the ,giappone is one of the finest in ,europe4 ,the ,english visitor to ,leghorn is a rarity1 but all famous ,italians have at some time or other eaten at the ,giappone--,crispi1 ,zanardelli1 ,cavallotti1 ,benedetto ,brin1 ,puccini1 ,mascagni1 to mention only a few among many4 ,the proprietor is the ,cav4 ,pasquale ,cianfanelli1 known even on the ,london market for the excellence of his ,tuscan wines4 ,the full ,tuscan dinner does not follow in the order of fish1 entree1 roast1 piece de resistance1 and game1 but of boiled 7lesso71 fried 7fritto71 stewed 7umido7 and roast 7arrosto74 ,the boiled may be beef2 the fried1 sweetbread2 the stewed1 fish2 the roast1 pigeon2 but this order is always maintained1 and the stranger's disappointment at there being no fish after the soup has only been equalled by his astonishment when it turns up in the fourth place4 ,it is for this reason that the ,tuscan bill of fare proves such a puzzle to the stranger with only a smattering of the language1 for it is not made out under the headings of fish1 entrees1 joint1 etc41 but of lessi1 fritti1 umidi1 and arrosti2 and fish1 for instance1 will be found under all four headings4 ,famous dishes at the ,giappone are ,spaghetti a sugo di carne 7gravy sauce71 ,risotto with white truffles1 ,arselle 7a small shell-fish7 alla ,marinara1 ,triglie 7red mullet7 alla ,livornese1 ,fritto misto 7mixed fry71 ,controfiletto con ,maccheroni1 etc4 ,the diner cannot do better than keep to the ordinary vino da pasto1 and end with the delicious caffe espresso and a ,val d',ema 7,tuscan ,chartreuse71 green or yellow4 ,the best ,tuscan mineral water is the ,acqua ,litiosa di ,s4 ,marco 7from the province of ,grosseto71 and it deserves more than a merely local fame4 ,if the traveller's flask is not already empty1 let him try some of its contents with this water1 and he will have a pleasant surprise4 ,another excellent restaurant in ,leghorn is that attached to the ,hotel d',angleterre-,campari1 owned by ,signori ,de-,stefani and ,clerici1 the latter of whom was for a time in ,london1 at the ,albergo d',italia4 ,the cuisine is ,north ,italian and ,french1 and the traveller not thoroughly converted to the ,tuscan table will find himself extremely well treated at the ,hotel ,campari4 ,rome ,a man who loved strange experiments in eating1 once asked me in ,rome to dine with him at a very cheap inn outside one of the gates1 and he explained how the dinner was arranged4 ,he had found a hostel which did not provide food1 but if you bought a lamb from a shepherd outside the gate1 so as to save the octroi1 you could have it cooked in a great pot1 a certain amount being charged for the cooking2 and you bought your wine1 as a matter of course1 at the inn4 ,the carters and herds were1 he told me1 the people who partook of this repast1 and every man ate his own lamb1 leaving little but the bones4 ,i did not go to that inn4 ,that place of refreshment was at one end of the social ladder1 the ,grand and ,quirinale are at the other4 ,set a man down in the restaurant of the ,grand1 or the ,winter ,garden of the ,quirinale1 and there will be nothing to give him a hint as to whether he is in ,london1 or ,paris1 or ,rome4 ,he will eat an excellent dinner--,french in all respects--and will be waited on by civil waiters1 whom he knows to be foreigners1 but who will answer him in ,english whatever language he addresses them in4 ,at either restaurant an excellent dinner of ceremony can be given4 ,the last time that ,i stayed at the ,grand1 ,i ate the table-d'hote dinner on several occasions and found it good4 ,the ,roma in the ,corso1 and the ,colonna in the ,piazza ,colonna1 are the typical city restaurants2 but they have a leaning towards the ,french cuisine4 ,to eat the food of ,rome1 try ,la ,venete in the ,via ,campo ,marzio1 which has a garden2 or1 more distinctive still1 the ,tre ,re1 hard by the ,pantheon1 where you must talk ,italian1 or else make signs4 ,bucci1 in the ,piazza della ,coppelle1 is the ,scott's or ,driver's of ,rome1 and you can dine or lunch there off shell-fish soup1 and the fish which comes from ,anzio and the other fishing villages of the coast4 ,there is a curious restaurant close by the station1 ,vagliani is1 ,i fancy1 the owner1 where artichokes are the staple fare1 and where the decorations are in keeping with the food4 ,you will find the foreign colony of art students--,danes1 ,norwegians1 ,germans--in the restaurants of the ,via delle ,crace1 ,coradetti1 where the food is well cooked but served without any unnecessary luxury1 being perhaps the best eating-house2 but the real haunt of the artist in ,rome is1 at the present time1 the ,trattoria ,fiorella in the ,via delle ,colonelli4 ,only do not go and stare at him while he is taking his meals1 for if you do1 he will go elsewhere to another trattoria1 the position of which he will keep a dead secret4 ,of course there are ,roman dishes without number1 and these are some of the best known of them3-- ,the ,zuppa di ,pesce is a ,bouillabaisse without any saffron4 ,the fish and shell-fish 7,john ,dory1 red mullet1 cuttle-fish1 lobster1 whiting1 muraena1 and mussels7 which compose it are served on toast4 ,the ,fritto di ,calamaretti is a fry of cuttle-fish in oil4 ,cinghiale in agro dolce is wild boar cooked in a sauce of chocolate1 sugar1 plums1 pinolis1 red currant1 and vinegar4 ,a bacchio e ,capretto alla ,cacciatora is very young lamb and sucking-goat cut into small pieces1 and cooked in a sauce to which anchovies and chillies give the dominant taste4 ,pollo en padella are spring chickens cut up and fried with tomatoes1 large sweet chillies1 and white wine4 ,pasticcio di ,maccheroni is an excellent macaroni pie1 and ,gnocchi di ,patele are little knobs of paste boiled like macaroni4 ,broccoli1 green peas cooked with butter and ham1 and1 above all1 the ,roman artichoke stewed in oil--which is to be obtained at its best in the old ,jewish eating-houses of the ,ghetto--are the vegetables of ,rome4 ,a very small ham is one of the local delicacies4 ,gnocchi di latte are custards in layers1 each of which is seasoned with either sugar or butter1 or cinnamon or ,parmesan cheese2 and ,zuppa ,inglese is a rich cake soused with liqueurs and vanilla cream1 covered with meringue and baked4 ,uova di ,bufola is a little ball of cheese made from buffalo's milk4 ,the best kind1 ,abota is kept in wrappings of fresh myrtle leaves4 ,marino 7red7 and ,frascati 7white7 are two of the best local wines4 ,orvietto has a faint remembrance of the champagne taste4 ,monte ,fiascone is a dessert wine4 ,naples ,there is a certain man in a certain ,london club who has a grievance against ,italy in general1 against ,naples in particular1 and1 to descend to minute detail1 against one ,neapolitan restaurant above all others4 ,he tells his tale to all comers as a warning to those who will travel in foreign parts4 ,he returned from a long turn of service in ,india1 and1 landing at ,naples1 concluded that as he was in ,europe he could get ,british food4 ,he went to a restaurant which shall be nameless1 and ordered a chump chop4 ,he had the greatest difficulty1 through an interpreter1 to explain exactly what it was that he wanted1 and then was forced to wait for an hour before it appeared4 ,when the bill was presented it frightened him1 but the proprietor1 on being summoned1 said that as such an extraordinary joint had been asked for1 he had been compelled to buy a whole sheep to supply it4 ,this is a warning not to ask for ,british dishes in a ,neapolitan restaurant4 ,time was when the ,gambrinus1 which is the excellently decorated cafe and restaurant at the end of the ,chiaja1 and the big cafe and restaurant in the great arcade1 were at daggers drawn1 and a war of cutting down of prices raged4 ,in those happy days one could dine or lunch at either place sumptuously for a shilling4 ,some meddling busybody interfered in the quarrel and brought the proprietors into a friendly spirit4 ,the ,gambrinus1 with its bright rooms1 good decorations1 and fair attendance1 is perhaps the best restaurant at which a stranger can take a meal1 unless he is looking for the distinctive ,neapolitan cookery4 ,if he is in search of the dishes of the town1 let him try the ,europa or1 better still for his purpose1 the ,vermouth di ,torino in the ,piazza del ,municipio4 ,to eat the fish dishes which show the real cookery of ,naples better than any other1 he should go out on a moonlight night a couple of miles to the ,antica ,trattoria dello ,scoglio di ,frisio1 or to the less aristocratic ,trattoria del ,figlio di ,pietro in the ,strada ,nuova del ,posilipo4 ,of the macaroni ,i have already written4 ,the splendid tomatoes grown in ,naples1 which are cooked with it1 give it its particular excellence4 ,it is also seasoned with cheese4 ,spagetti alle ,vongole is the macaroni seasoned with the little shell-fish of the place4 ,zuppa di ,vongole is a clear soup of bread and ,vongole4 ,polpi alla ,luciana are small octopi stewed in an earthern pot with oil1 tomatoes1 chilli1 and red wine4 ,between the pot and the lid a sheet of oiled paper is placed1 to prevent the steam from escaping4 ,the ,spigola1 the most delicate of fishes of the ,mediterranean1 is at its best between #a and #a-a_/b lbs4 in weight4 ,it is either boiled or roasted1 and is served with a sauce of oil1 lemon juice1 and chopped parsley4 ,a steak alla ,pizzaiola is baked in an oven with potatoes1 garlic1 and thyme2 and ,pizza alla ,pizzaiola is a kind of ,yorkshire pudding eaten either with cheese or anchovies and tomatoes flavoured with thyme4 ,mozzarelle in carozza is a slice of bread soaked in milk and a slice of ,provola cheese1 the whole plunged in beaten eggs and then fried4 ,there is an excellent ,neapolitan method of treating egg-plants1 fried in oil1 cut in slices1 sandwiched with cheese and tomatoes1 and then baked4 ,provola and ,cacio ,cavallo are the ,neapolitan cheeses4 ,vesuvio1 ,capri1 ,gragnano1 ,lacrima ,christa are a few of the wines grown along the bays4 ,the walnuts of ,sorrento are the best in ,italy4 ,palermo ,palermo has its special dishes1 amongst them of course its ,spagetti1 seasoned with minced meat and egg-plant2 but its ices and its fruit are its particular delicacies4 ,marsala1 ,moscato di ,siracusa1 and ,amarena di ,siracusa are the wines of the island4 ,if you want to try ,sicilian cookery1 go either to the ,lincoln by the ,plazza ,marina or the ,rebecchina in the ,via ,vittoria ,emanuele4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,x ,,spain ,,and ,,portugal ,food and wines of the country--,barcelona--,san ,sebastian--,bilbao--,madrid--,seville-- ,bobadilla--,grenada--,jerez-- ,algeciras--,lisbon--,estoril4 ,a candid ,frenchman1 who had lived long in ,spain1 asked as to the cookery of ,spain compared with that of other nations1 replied1 ,it is worse even than that of the ,english1 which is the next worst4 ,that ,frenchman was1 however1 rather ungrateful1 for the ,spaniards taught the ,french how to stuff turkeys with chestnuts4 ,the ,spanish cooks also first understood that an orange salad is the proper accompaniment to a wild duck1 and the ,spanish hams are excellent4 ,the lower orders in ,spain have too great a partiality for ajo and aceite for oil and garlic4 ,their oil1 which they use greatly even with fish1 is not the refined oil of ,genoa or the south of ,france1 but is a coarse liquid1 the ill taste of which remains all day in one's mouth4 ,garlic is an excellent seasoning in its proper place and quantity1 and the upper classes of the ,spaniards have their meat lightly rubbed with it before being cooked1 but the lower classes use it in the cooking to an intolerable extent4 ,capsicum is much eaten in ,spain1 being sometimes stuffed1 but in any quantity it is very indigestible4 ,in the south of ,spain the heat is tropical in the summer1 and the only meat then available in any small town is generally goat4 ,as in ,india1 the chicken which you order for your lunch is running about the yard of the inn when the order is given4 ,the principal dish of ,spain is ,puchero1 which consists of beef1 very savoury sausages1 bacon1 fowl1 and plenty of the white haricot beans known as garbanzos1 some leeks1 and a small onion1 all put together into a pot to boil4 ,the liquid is carefully skimmed before it actually boils1 and as the scum stops forming hot water is added4 ,the broth1 ,caldo1 is used as soup2 the remainder1 which has had most of the sustaining quality boiled out of it1 is the daily dish of the middle and upper classes1 who call it ,cocido4 ,gazpaco is a kind of cold soup much used in the southern and hotter parts of ,spain4 ,it is made of bread crumbs1 bonito fish1 onions1 oil1 vinegar1 garlic1 and cucumbers4 ,all these are beaten into a pulp1 then diluted1 and bread broken into the mixture4 ,the better classes drink this as we should afternoon tea4 ,bacalas1 or dried cod1 is one of the staple dishes of the poor in the north1 and the ,english in ,spain also often eat it4 ,the favourite mode of preparation is to first soak out the salt1 then let the cod simmer1 but not boil1 adding afterwards pimientas dulces and chopped onion fried and pounded4 ,the selection of a cod-fish is the first necessity in preparing this dish1 for some of the cheaper kinds from ,norway are so odoriferous as to make them impossible to most white men4 ,spain is a country which is no happy hunting ground for a gourmet4 ,the restaurants in ,barcelona one can rely on1 ,madrid comes next in honour1 and the rest1 to use a sporting term1 are nowhere1 the customary table-d'hote dinner at the restaurants of a small town consisting of ,caldo1 then the universal stew1 then ,arroz a la ,valencia1 rice1 chicken1 and tomatoes1 and finally quince marmalade4 ,lisbon is the one city in ,portugal where the cooking is worthy of any serious consideration4 ,the wines of ,spain are the ,valdepenas1 which is very strong and really requires eight or ten years in bottle to mature1 a ,rioja claret1 which is a good wine when four years in bottle1 and of course sherry in the south1 of which all the leading brands are obtainable4 ,in the north ,i have found ,diamante a pleasant wine to drink4 ,the ,spanish brandy is1 if a good brand is chosen1 excellent4 ,barcelona ,the busy bustling capital of ,catalonia is better off in the matter of restaurants than any town in ,spain1 the capital included4 ,first in order comes ,justin's1 the longer title of which is the ,restaurant de ,francia1 in the ,plaza ,real4 ,it is an old-established house with a good cook1 and excellent wines in its cellars4 ,it is a restaurant that the ,french would describe as non chiffre1 for it does not mark the prices on its card of the day1 though they are not higher than at most of the other restaurants of ,barcelona4 ,there are some very pleasant private rooms at the restaurant1 and a large room for banquets4 ,the cuisine is almost entirely ,french4 ,you can get a very fair dinner1 wine and all1 at ,justin's for about #fs42 but if you are giving a dinner party1 and are prepared to pay #cj pesetas or #ahs4 a head1 ,justin's will give you such a dinner as the menu ,i give below1 wine and all3-- ,huitres de ,marennes4 ,consomme ,colbert4 ,hors-d'oeuvre varies4 ,loup4 ,sauce ,hollandaise4 ,cotelettes de ,sanglier ,venaison4 ,salmis de ,becasses4 ,chapon ,truffe4 ,petits pois a la creme4 ,glace ,napolitaine4 ,desserts assortis4 ,,vins4 ,rioja blanco4 ,vinicola4 ,cliquot sec frappe4 ,the ,rioja ,blanco1 ,diamante1 and ,vinicola seem to be the wines most generally drunk at ,justin's4 ,,mm4 ,marius and ,gerina are the present proprietors4 ,in the central square1 the ,plaza ,cataluna1 is the new and gorgeous ,restaurant ,colon1 attached to the newly finished hotel of that name4 ,the decorations of the interior are artistic1 and the building bears on its facade in gold and colours the arms of the principal ,european nations4 ,here1 as at ,justin's1 the cookery is almost entirely of the ,french school4 ,the chef is ,m4 ,azcoaga1 the manager ,mons4 ,scatti4 ,there is a good fixed priced lunch and dinner1 specimen menus of which ,i give3-- #e ,pts4 ,,dejeuner4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,oeufs poches ,princesse4 ,filets de ,sole ,waleska4 ,poulet ,cocotte ,bayaldy4 ,buffet froid4 ,filet grille4 ,pommes fondantes4 ,biscuit glace4 ,dessert4 #f ,pts4 ,,dinner4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,consomme ,duchesse4 ,creme ,windsor4 ,turbot4 ,sauce ,hollandaise4 ,carre d',agneau ,maintenon4 ,haricots verts ,anglaise4 ,caille sur ,canape4 ,salade4 ,peches ,richelieu4 ,dessert4 ,the ,continental and ,martin's may be said to run a dead heat for third place4 ,the former is in the ,plaza ,cataluna1 and its cuisine is both foreign and of the country4 ,on its bill of fare are always three plats de jour1 and that on one day1 ,raviolis ,napolitaine1 ,escargots ,bourguinonne1 and ,filet grille ,bordelaise were the three dishes1 and on another ,oeufs ,meyerbeer1 ,filet de veau froid aux ,legumes1 and ,rap ,marinera shows the variety of the fare4 ,the prices of these dishes are all between one and two pesetas4 ,under the heading of fritures1 all kinds of conchas and ,escalopitas and ,croquettas are to be found1 as well as the ,frito ,mixto2 and the fish column gives an interesting selection of the sea denizens of the coast1 ,rap1 ,calamares1 ,merluza1 ,pouvine1 and others4 ,the banquets at the ,continental are entirely ,french in character4 ,martin's in the ,rambla del ,centro is almost in front of the ,opera ,house1 and has a number of snug little rooms for supper parties1 of two or more1 after the theatre4 ,this is a dinner for a dozen given at ,martin's4 ,the position in the menu of game1 hors-d'oeuvre1 and fish is in accordance with the usual ,spanish custom1 and is always adhered to in this establishment3-- ,,vins4 ,jerez ,macharnudo4 ,creme de volaille ,royale4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,rioja ,clarete4 ,cailles a la ,maintenon4 ,barsac #ahic4 ,saumon de la ,loire a la ,parisienne4 ,troncons de ,filet a la ,perigueux4 ,asperges en ,branches4 ,moet ,chandon4 ,chapons de la ,bresse aux ,cressons4 ,biscuits ,glaces au ,praline4 ,dessert assorti4 ,,cafe ,,et ,,liqueurs4 ,m4 ,martin1 who is the proprietor1 will give you a dinner at any price from #d pesetas upwards4 ,he was caterer to the kings of ,portugal and of ,sweden when they were at ,barcelona in #ahhh1 and has furnished all the banquets given by the municipal council since #ahha4 ,filet de sole ,martin1 one of the dishes of the house1 proves that he has the ,parisian ambition to give a name to a filleted sole4 ,the ,maison ,doree which has lately been increased to double its original size1 has as proprietors the ,,mm4 ,pompidor1 ,frenchmen1 who march with the times4 ,it is in the ,plaza ,cataluna4 ,it makes a speciality of a prix-fixe breakfast and dinner on ,thursdays and ,saturdays1 and it serves tea daily a l',anglaise from #d to #f4 ,port ,bou ,there is a little restaurant at ,port ,bou1 kept by ,francisco ,jaque1 where you are likely1 if you are making a stay to see the ,pyrenees1 to be better looked after than at the station on the ,french side of the frontier4 ,there are rooms to be hired there4 ,san ,sebastian ,crossing the ,spanish frontier on the western side from ,france1 the first important town reached is ,san ,sebastian4 ,the great sea-bathing place of ,spain is a town where one would expect to find some excellent restaurants1 for the ,queen-mother lives for a great part of the year in her palace on the sea-shore1 and the ,court is with the ,king whenever he is in residence there1 which is generally in summer and autumn4 ,a large hotel1 with a good restaurant and all the latest improvements1 is projected1 and no doubt ,san ,sebastian will soon be as well catered for as any ,french watering-place2 but in the meantime it is as well for the casual seeker for a meal to go to the ,continental1 which overlooks the bay1 and where a very fair breakfast is to be obtained for #d francs in the verandah whence all the life of the place can be watched4 ,the ,casino has a restaurant with a wide verandah which should be a delightful place at which to take dinner4 ,i had been warned that ,i should not be well served there1 but one day ,i thought that the view of the town and the garden1 with its picturesque crowd1 would make amends for any dilatoriness4 ,this was the menu of the dinner that ,i partook of1 and1 though wine was included in the repast1 to conciliate the haughty ,spaniard in dress-clothes who came and looked at me as though ,i were an earth-man1 ,i ordered a pint of ,diamante3-- ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,,potages4 ,creme de volaille4 ,consomme ,riche4 ,,poisson4 ,langouste4 ,sauce ,tartare4 ,,entree4 ,salmis de ,perdreaux au ,jerez4 ,,legumes4 ,tomates farcies ,provencale4 ,,roti4 ,filet de ,boeuf ,pique ,broche4 ,salade4 ,,entremets4 ,arlequin4 ,dessert4 ,i do not think that ,i ever had a worse-served #g francs worth of food4 ,once in my life1 at a ,chicago hotel1 ,i saw a negro waiter shaking up the bottle of ,burgundy ,i had ordered1 just to amuse his brother coons1 and ,i felt a helpless exasperation as ,i watched him4 ,the same feeling of voiceless anger was upon me as ,i watched the gentleman who was supposed at the ,san ,sebastian ,casino to keep me supplied with hot food1 bring a dish from the interior of the cafe and then put it down on somebody else's table to cool while he strolled across the terrace to ask the military guardian at the gate how many people had paid for admission1 or at what hour the band played1 or what number had won the lottery4 ,bourdette and the ,urbana1 both with ,french cookery1 are the restaurants patronised by the ,englishmen in ,san ,sebastian who talk ,spanish1 and both are said to be fairly good4 ,bilbao ,it is curious that at the great northern town of ,spain there should be no first-class restaurants4 ,the two best in the town are the ,antiguo1 in the ,calle de ,bidebarrieta1 and the ,moderno4 ,both of these boast what the ,spaniards term ,cocina ,francesa1 which only means that if you make a request1 as the ,english always do1 the cook will fry your food with butter instead of oil4 ,at ,portugalete1 the port of ,bilbao1 there is a restaurant1 good1 as ,spanish restaurants go1 attached to the hotel of the place1 the proprietor of which is ,dn4 ,manuel ,calvo4 ,the cook and the staff of waiters come from ,lhardy's1 the best restaurant in ,madrid1 and spend their summer by the seaside4 ,the prices at this restaurant are high4 ,portugalete is only a summer resort4 ,northern ,towns ,at ,santander1 a little further along the northern coast1 the best food to be obtained is found at the ,hotel ,europa2 but the best is bad at ,santander4 ,at ,burgos and at ,zaragoza the two largest hotels in each place give the least indifferent food4 ,madrid ,the capital of ,spain cries aloud for a ,carlton1 or a ,ritz1 or a ,savoy1 and is1 ,i believe1 soon to have a really large hotel with a restaurant managed on the lines which we are accustomed to in all the important ,european capitals4 ,the ,hotel de ,paris1 one of the two noisy and expensive hotels on the ,puerta del ,sol1 has always had a reputation for its cookery1 always remembering that the standard in ,spain is not high4 ,there is a table-d'hote lunch and a table-d'hote dinner1 of the latter of which ,i append a menu which is a fair specimen3-- ,consomme ,julienne4 ,merlan ,sauce aux ,capres4 ,filet de ,boeuf ,renaissance4 ,galantine ,truffee a l',aspic4 ,haricots ,verts ,sautes4 ,cailles au ,cresson4 ,creme au ,chocolat ,glacee4 ,desserts assortis4 ,the cookery of the house is ,french1 but ,spanish dishes can be obtained by an order given in advance4 ,there used to be a manager at the ,paris who was known as ,constantino--what his other name was no one knew4 ,he was a universal provider1 and the ,englishmen who knew him and who used to stay at the ,madrid1 never hesitated to ask him for anything procurable in the capital1 from a ticket for a bull-fight to a genuine ,murillo1 quite sure that next morning they would find in the office what they had asked for the previous evening4 ,lhardy's1 in the ,curera de ,san ,jeronimo1 is the typical ,madrid restaurant not attached to an hotel4 ,the appearance of the ground floor is that of a charcutier's and pastry-cook's combined4 ,the restaurant you will find on the first floor1 where a table-d'hote dinner and lunch are served4 ,the annexed menu shows what the daily lunch is like3-- ,potage ,tortue a l',americaine4 ,turbot ,garni4 ,sauce ,crevettes4 ,filets de ,boeuf a la ,vatel4 ,bellevue de ,perdreaux a l',ecarlate4 ,dindonneaux rotis au ,cresson4 ,salade ,russe4 ,glace ,conde4 ,dessert4 ,,vins4 ,jerez4 ,bordeaux4 ,champagne ,frappe4 ,cafe and ,liqueurs4 ,the ,cafe de ,fornos is also well spoken of by all who have experimented4 ,the restaurant at the ,fornos is in the cafe on the ground floor4 ,on the first floor are the private rooms4 ,there are several of the restaurants with cabinets particuliers where little suppers are given after the theatre1 the ,fornos being one2 but the ,madrilese dandy1 wishing to sup a deux1 generally chooses the ,cafe ,ingles1 as the private rooms are very well decorated4 ,the ,perla is also well spoken of4 ,all these restaurants profess the ,french cuisine1 and at ,lhardy's as good a dinner is obtainable as at the best restaurants of ,barcelona4 ,seville ,at ,seville you dine and breakfast at your hotel1 whether it be the ,madrid or the ,paris1 both very good hotels for ,spain4 ,there is a table-d'hote dinner at each after the style of the meal of which ,i have given a menu under the heading of ,madrid4 ,at both hotels an extra charge is made to those aristocrats who will not sit at the long table which runs down the centre of the highly ornamented dining-room and are accommodated at little tables at the sides of the room4 ,the great patio of the ,madrid1 with its palm grove and creepers1 is a delightful place to sit in after dinner4 ,the dinner-hour at ,seville is seven o'clock4 ,there is a ,restaurant ,suizo in the ,calle de las ,sierpes1 and a little restaurant1 the ,eritana1 with a pleasant garden1 is to be found near the turning point of the drive that the beauty and fashion of ,seville take on fine afternoons down the ,paseo de las ,delicias by the river4 ,if you are tempted to try the ,manzanilla wine with its proper accompaniment of snails or langostinos1 visit the ,taberna1 opposite the ,madrid ,hotel2 and if you are a bachelor1 do not mind an atmosphere of smoke1 can make yourself understood in ,spanish1 and like local colour1 take your cafe au lait of an evening in the ,cafe ,cantante of the ,calle ,sterpes4 ,you will recognise the house by the little dancing-girl on the lamp4 ,bobadilla ,the junction of the lines to ,seville1 ,granada1 and ,algeciras is ,bobadilla1 and there all trains wait for half an hour that the passengers may feed4 ,the meal is a very fair sample of ,spanish cookery1 and you are given soup or eggs1 according to the time of day1 an entree1 a joint1 and fish4 ,i can still recall a ,bobadillian meal1 with the taste of garlic acting as a sort of ,leitmotiv in all the dishes1 of omelette1 stewed beef and beans1 a ragout of veal1 fried fish in butter1 and cheese4 ,do not omit to cast an eye on the fair damsel behind the bar4 ,she is a typical ,andalusian beauty and is used to admiration4 ,grenada ,the hotels ,siete ,suclos and ,washington ,irving are the two principal hotels near the ,alhambra1 and are crowded with tourist-trippers of all nations1 ,americans and ,germans predominating1 during the tourist season4 ,at the ,siete ,suclos the cookery is said to be ,spanish in character4 ,my personal experience is confined to the ,washington ,irving1 and on the first day of my stay1 when ,i tried to order breakfast and the waiter1 in answer to my query as to what dishes were ready1 rolled out with great rapidity1 ,beefsteeake1 colfolanam1 baconnegs1 mutton-chops1 mutton cotolettes1 ,i thought that the local ,spanish dishes sounded something like ,english ones4 ,englishmen who live in ,spain tell me that they generally go to the ,alhambra1 which ,i take to be the ,casa de ,huespedes1 #c ,alhambra1 a lodging-house where ,i fancy only ,spanish is spoken4 ,cadiz and ,jerez ,at ,cadiz the cooking at the ,grand ,hotel de ,paris is ,spanish and good of its kind4 ,at ,jerez the cooking at the ,fondas de ,los ,cisnes and ,la ,victoria is ,spanish also4 ,this is the menu of a dinner at the ,hotel ,los ,cisnos3-- ,consomme de ,quenelles a la ,royal4 ,filetes de ,tenguados a la ,tutus4 ,chuletas de ,cordero a la ,inglesa4 ,pechugas de ,pollos a la ,suprema4 ,perdices al jugo4 ,ensalada ,rusa4 ,esparragos de ,aranjuez1 salsa blanca4 ,mantecados de ,vainilla y ,fresa4 ,postres variados4 ,algeciras ,the town on the ,spanish side of the bay has redeemed ,gibraltar from its ill fame as a place of entertainment4 ,the late ,ignacio ,lersundi1 under whose rule the ,bristol in ,london--now converted into a ladies' club--gave one of the best1 if not the best1 table-d'hote dinners obtainable in the ,english capital1 supervised the arrangements of the ,hotel ,reina ,christina1 and the table-d'hote dinner there still is an excellent one4 ,lisbon ,there are good hotels to stay at in ,lisbon and there are restaurants in plenty1 but to try the cookery of some of the town eating-houses a gourmet requires to have his taste educated up to1 or down to1 the ,portuguese standard4 ,at the ,braganza1 a little club of bachelor ,britons have been in the habit of dining together and ordering their dinner in advance1 and this is a fair sample of what the steady-going but very comfortable hostelry can do when it chooses3-- ,,potages4 ,madeira ,riche4 ,queues de ,boeuf4 ,creme ,clamart4 ,petits ,souffles ,desir4 ,johannisberger ,saumon ,sauce ,genevoise4 7,claus74 ,selle de ,presale a la ,montpensier4 ,poularde a l',ambassadrice4 ,chateau ,giscours4 ,pain de foies gras en ,bellevue4 ,punch au ,kirsch4 ,asperges ,sauce ,mousseuse4 ,george ,goulet1 ,pintades ,truffees4 #ahib ,vintage4 ,salade ,japonaise4 ,timbales a la ,lyon d',or4 ,porto #ahae4 ,glaces a la ,americaine4 ,petits fours4 ,dessert4 ,liqueurs4 ,,cafe4 ,a good table-d'hote breakfast and dinner are served daily at #aa ,a4,m4 and #g ,p4,m4 and the price is moderate1 being about #hjj reis and #a4bjj respectively4 7,it is well to remember that the exchange varies considerably1 and it is therefore difficult to give the equivalents in sterling for the prices quoted1 but #eejj to #fjjj reis may be roughly taken at ,l#a sterling47 ,the proprietor is ,m4 ,sasetti1 who is ably supported by his manager and by a head waiter named ,celestino1 a most useful person in every way4 ,wines1 spirits1 and liqueurs of foreign origin are expensive at the ,braganza1 as they are everywhere else1 owing to the high custom tariff2 but the local wines1 amongst which may be cited ,collares1 ,cadafaes1 ,collares ,branco1 ,serradayres white and red1 etc41 are all good and cheap table wines4 ,the next restaurant as regards comfort1 cleanliness1 and cuisine is the ,cafe ,tavares1 situated in the ,rua ,largo de ,s4 ,roque4 ,it is essentially a cafe restaurant1 and is open from breakfast time in the morning till #c or #d the following morning4 ,tavares is the principal rendezvous of the young bloods1 both ,portuguese and foreign1 particularly so after the theatres and opera are over and suppers are in demand4 ,the revel goes on from twelve o'clock until any hour of the morning1 more especially as regards the cabinets particuliers1 which are best entered from the back entrance situated in the ,rua das ,gaveas4 ,a very good table-d'hote lunch and dinner are served daily at the very moderate cost of #fjj and #hjj reis4 ,the proprietor and manager is ,snr4 ,caldeira1 who is most attentive and obliging to his guests4 ,if any visitor to ,lisbon is anxious to try the ,portuguese cooking1 he cannot do better than pay a visit to the ,leao d',ouro1 situated in the ,rua de ,principe1 adjoining the ,central ,railway ,station4 ,this formerly was1 and to a great extent still is1 the rendezvous of actors1 authors1 and professional men4 ,the food is good and very cheap1 served a la carte4 ,portuguese food may be called highly seasoned1 but for all that there are many good dishes1 one speciality of the house being ,sopa de ,camarao1 a bisque of prawns1 which in no way is to be despised4 ,with regard to wines at this restaurant it is advisable to drink those of the country4 ,estoril ,estoril is a very picturesque and beautiful spot about three-quarters of an hour from ,lisbon by rail4 ,here there has been lately established a high-class hotel with cuisine a la ,francaise and good wines4 ,the hotel is owned and managed by ,m4 ,estrade1 who has had a long experience in this class of business4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,austria ,,and ,,hungary ,viennese restaurants and cafes--,baden--,carlsbad--,marienbad--,p rague--,bad ,gastein--,budapesth4 ,vienna ,the cuisine of the best of the ,viennese restaurants1 those attached to the big hotels1 is ,french1 though the ,wiener ,rostbraten and the ,wiener ,schnitzel are world-famous1 and the typical ,viennese dinner is a good ,french dinner with the addition of very delicious bread and pastry made with a lighter hand than any ,gallic cook brings to his task4 ,the wines of the country of ,retz1 ,mailberg1 ,pfaffstadt1 ,gumpoldskirchen1 ,klosterneuberg1 ,nussberg1 and ,voeslau should all be tasted1 most of them being more than drinkable4 ,beer1 however1 is the real ,viennese drink1 and the very light liquid1 ice cold1 is a delightful beverage4 ,stay at what hotel you please1 but dine at the ,bristol1 was the advice given me nigh a score of years ago when ,i first visited ,vienna1 and it holds good now2 indeed of late the smart set of ,vienna has taken it greatly into favour1 and dines or sups there--the opera and plays begin at #g and end at #aj--;constantly4 ,the prices1 a la carte1 are high1 but the cooking is good4 ,some specialities of the house are trout taken alive from the aquarium1 ,huitres ,titania1 ,homard ,cardinal1 ,poularde ,wladimir1 ,souffle ,king ,edward ,,vii41 ,oranges a l',infante4 ,sacher's1 in the hotel of that name just behind the ,opera ,house1 is very well known and may be taken as the typical ,viennese restaurant4 ,it is expensive1 as indeed all the best ,viennese restaurants are4 ,it is not quite so exclusively ,french in its cuisine as some of the other good restaurants1 and one of its plats de jour is always a national dish1 as often as not a ,hungarian one1 so that by dining or breakfasting at ,sacher's one obtains some idea of what the real cookery of the dual monarchy is like4 ,sacher's has a branch establishment in the ,prater1 which is always in high favour with the ,viennese4 ,hartmann's 7,leidinger's successor7 in the ,ring1 is an excellent restaurant to breakfast at4 ,here more of the national dishes--the pickled veal1 smoked sucking pig1 stewed beef of various kinds1 ,risi-,bisi1 stewed pork--are to be found than at the restaurants mentioned above4 ,it is rather ,bohemian1 but only pleasantly so4 ,a good word may be said for the cooking at ,meissl and ,schadn's1 in the ,kaernthenerstrass1 and for that at the ,reidhof4 ,the ,stephan ,keller 7,cafe de l',europe7 in the ,stephan ,platz is a much frequented cafe4 ,it was originally an underground resort in the vaults of ,st-,stephan1 but it has risen to a higher sphere4 ,this house is much used by the colony of artists who also are to be found at ,hartmann's1 ,gause's1 and the ,rother ,igel4 ,there are wine houses--,esterhazy ,keller1 for instance1 where all classes go to drink the ,hungarian wines from the estates of ,prince ,esterhazy--without number1 and many of these have their speciality of ,itrian or ,dalmatian wines4 ,the summer resorts are mostly for the people only2 they are butterfly cafes opening in the summer and closing in the winter1 and if their clientele deserts them there are only some painted boards1 tables1 and benches to be carted away and a hedge to be dug out2 but in the ,prater there are some more substantial establishments1 ,sacher's1 mentioned before1 and the ,rondeau and ,lusthaus1 which are made the turning-points in the daily drives of the ,viennese4 ,vienna keeps very early hours1 the cafes closing well before midnight1 unless they are kept open for some special fete4 ,in the environs of ,vienna there are pleasant restaurants on the ,kalenberg1 up which a little railway runs1 and at ,klosterneuberg1 where one can drink the excellent wine of the place at the ,stiftskeller before one admires the view from the terrace or looks at the treasures of the abbey4 ,baden ,baden bei ,wien is a little watering-place sixteen miles from the capital1 to which the ,viennese go for a cure1 and to which the ,carlsbad and ,marienbad doctors sometimes send their patients to begin an after cure4 ,it is a pretty little place with shady parks and an unpretentious restaurant at the ,kurhaus and another in the ,weilburggasse1 and the walk up the valley of the ,schwechat has cafe-restaurants at several of the points of interest4 ,carlsbad ,probably twenty ,englishmen go to ,carlsbad for their liver's sake for every ten who go to ,vienna to be amused1 and the great ,bohemian town in the valley where the hot spring gushes up is one of the resorts to which gourmets1 who have eaten not wisely but too well1 are most frequently sent4 ,it is a town of good but very simple fare1 for the doctors rule it absolutely1 and nothing which can hurt a patient's digestion is allowed to appear on the bill of fare of any of the restaurants or hotels4 ,the life of the place1 which chiefly is bound up in the consideration of where to eat the three simple meals allowed1 is curious4 ,in the morning1 after the disagreeable necessity of drinking three or more glassfuls of the hot water1 every man and every lady spends a half hour deciding where to breakfast and what kind of roll and what kind of ham they shall eat4 ,the bakers' shops are crowded by people picking out the special rusk or special roll they prefer1 and these are carried off in little pink bags4 ,two slices of ham are next bought from one of the shops where men in white clothes slice all day long at the lean ,prague ham or the fatter ,westphalian4 ,no man is really a judge of ham until he has argued for a quarter of an hour every morning outside the shop in the ,carlsbad ,high ,street as to what breed of pig gives the most appetising slice4 ,bag in hand1 ham in pocket1 the man undergoing a cure walks to the ,elephant in the ,alte ,wiese1 or to one of the little restaurants which stud the valley and the hillsides1 delightful little buildings with great glass shelters for rainy days and lawns and flower-beds and creepers1 where neat waitresses in black1 with their ,christian names in white metal worn as a brooch1 or great numbers pinned to their shoulders1 receive you with laughing welcome1 set a red-clothed table for you1 and bring you the hot milk and boiled eggs which complete your repast4 ,be careful of which waitress you smile at on your first day1 for she claims you as her especial property for the rest of your stay1 and to ask another waitress to bring your eggs would be the deepest treason4 ,dinner is a mid-day meal1 and as you are not tied down to any particular hotel for your meals because you happen to be staying in it1 the custom is to dine where your fancy pleases you4 ,there is ,pupp's with its verandah and its little grove of ,noah's ark trees1 patronised by all nations1 and the ,golden ,shield and ,anger's1 and ,wirchaupt's in the ,alte ,wiese1 which since ,i have known ,carlsbad has grown from a ham shop into a very smart little restaurant handsomely decorated4 ,wirchaupt's is small enough still for its patrons to have individual attention paid them1 and if you are an habitue you will be told as you go in if anything especially good has been bought at market that morning1 and little hints are given you as to the composition of your meal4 ,bohemian partridges and the trout and ,zander from the ,tepl and other mountain streams are the two great stand-bys of the man at ,carlsbad who likes good food2 but the big fowls which come1 ,i fancy1 from ,styria1 are excellent birds2 the venison1 the hares1 the mutton1 and the ever-present ham are all capital4 ,the wines of the country are excellent4 ,the cheapest form of the local wine is served in little caraffes1 but here1 as in most other places1 it is wise to pay the extra shilling and drink the bottled wine4 ,besides the wine of the province there are obtainable the usual ,austrian wines1 and the ,hungarian ,erlauer and ,offner and ,carlowitz4 ,i have halted in the ,alte ,wiese to descant on the usual dinner of ,carlsbad1 which1 ordered a la carte1 never costs more than a few shillings4 ,up on the hill at the ,bristol1 from the terrace of which there is a fine view over the valley to the ,keilberg1 and at the ,savoy ,westend1 where some ,egyptian servants imported by ,nuncovitch from the land of the ,pharoahs wait upon you1 and which has a great pavilion as its open-air dining-hall1 you are likely to find most of the people1 ,english and ,american1 whose movements are recorded in the society papers1 taking their mid-day meal4 ,the ,american millionaire at ,carlsbad1 however1 fares just as simply and just as cheaply as does any half-pay captain1 for ,dr4 ,krauss and ,dr4 ,london are no considerers of persons in their dieting4 ,in the afternoon1 about five o'clock1 all the world goes to one of the cafes in the valley to listen to a concert and to drink hot milk2 and in the evening a meal1 as simple as dinner has been1 is eaten4 ,this is the hour to see ,pupp's at its best4 ,in the little grove of trees before the house1 where the big band-stand is1 there is an array of tables1 each with its lamp upon it4 ,in the outside verandah of the great restaurant there are more tables1 and inside the glazed verandah and in two long rooms1 each rising a step above the other1 are a host of people supping4 ,the scene is like some great effect at a theatre1 and ,i know nowhere where one can find any restaurant shining with light as ,pupp's does on a summer night4 ,the restaurant in the ,stadtpark is always crowded when the band plays there1 but the attendance is very hurried and casual1 and contrasts badly with ,pupp's and the other first-class restaurants4 ,at the two ,variety ,theatres in the lower town one can1 by booking a table in advance1 sup fairly comfortably1 and listen while one sups to a very good variety entertainment4 ,at ,gieshuebl1 where ,herr ,mattoni makes a fortune by bottling the spring water1 and which is little more than an hour's drive from ,carlsbad1 there is an excellent restaurant where the fare is the same as that found in ,carlsbad4 ,marienbad ,all that ,i have written of ,carlsbad1 concerning its food and drink1 applies to ,marienbad4 ,there is the same freedom as to dining-places1 and on a sunny day a man will take his meal in one of the creeper-grown bowers which are erected on the edge of the park by the hotels which face it1 or at the ,kursaal garden4 ,on a dull day he will dine at ,klinger's1 the house which has a special celebrity1 but which1 with its rather stuffy rooms and its much ornamented plate-glass windows1 which never seem to open quite wide enough1 is pleasanter on a cool day than a hot one2 or at the ,new ,york1 which has its rooms ornamented after the style the ,parisians call the ,new ,art4 ,there are several good restaurants in the environs of ,marienbad1 at the ,waldmuehle and elsewhere1 and the ,egerlaender ,cafe is well worth a visit4 ,it is a large cafe1 with the usual grove before it1 built on a commanding hill4 ,the special characteristics of the place are that the rooms and the great hall are built and furnished after the fashion of ,egerland1 the most picturesque style that ,austria boasts of4 ,the girls who wait are all in the handsome ,egerland costume1 and the effect is very pretty4 ,there is a restaurant at ,egerland1 and the proprietor1 when ,i was at ,marienbad in #aija1 talked of adding sleeping apartments to the establishment and of making it a hotel as well as a restaurant and cafe4 ,prague ,the expedition to ,prague generally forms part of a stay at ,carlsbad or ,marienbad4 ,my personal experience1 gained from two visits1 is that if one stays either at the ,saxe or the ,blauer ,stern1 it is wiser to take one's meals in the restaurants of the hotels than to go further afield and fare worse4 ,one traverses the hop-fields of ,pilsen during the journey from ,carlsbad1 and an amateur of beer should find ,prague a paradise second only to ,munich4 ,bad ,gastein ,there are several more or less pretentious hotels in ,gastein1 but perhaps the most reliable for feeding purposes is the ,badeschloss2 it is rather old-fashioned1 but good of its kind4 ,it was formerly the palace of the ,cardinal ,bishops4 ,the hot-water springs1 discovered in ,a4,d4 #fhj1 have their source close to the hotel4 ,budapesth ,the most distinctive feature of ,hungarian cookery is the use of paprika1 the national pepper4 ,a ,goulache1 as it is usually written on menus1 or ,gulyas as the ,hungarians call it1 is a ragout in which the pepper plays an important part4 ,the ,paprikahuhn is a chicken stewed or baked with the pepper1 which is very pleasant tasting4 ,pork served with a sharp-tasting puree in which cranberries play a role1 and other combinations of meat and fruit1 brought together very much as we ,britons take red current jelly with hare and mutton1 are all part of the national cookery4 ,the entrails of animals are used to make some of the dishes2 pork1 from the innocent sucking pig to the great wild boar1 veal1 pickled or fresh1 and calves lungs in vinegar are all treated as national dishes4 ,the wines of the country are well known to all ,anglo-,saxons for some of them1 the red wines1 ,erlauer1 ,ofner1 and ,carlovicz1 are exported in great quantities4 ,the white wines1 ,ruster1 ,schomlayer1 ,szegszarder1 and others are equally drinkable1 while ,tokay is of course a king amongst wines4 ,of restaurants in ,budapesth there are but few to be recommended to the wanderer4 ,both the ,ungaria and the ,koningen von ,england have restaurants where one can order a dinner which is expensive however simple it may be1 and where one may listen to one of those gipsy bands which are now to be found in most of the ,london restaurants and in some of the ,parisian ones4 ,the best restaurant not attached to an hotel is ,palkowitch's1 the ,national ,casino1 which is the smart restaurant of the town4 ,a ,hungarian gentleman1 wishing to give a friend a good dinner1 takes him to the ,casino ,club1 and this is the style of meal and wines that he will get4 ,i am not responsible for the spelling of the menu1 which is that of the club steward3-- ,somtoi4 ,gulzas ,clair4 ,eteville #ahfh4 ,fogas de ,balaton a la ,jean ,bart4 ,chateau ,margaux ,cuissot de ,porc frais4 #ahge4 ,choucroute farcie4 ,moet #ahhd4 ,cailles roties sur ,canape ,salade4 ,tokay #ahdf4 ,artichauts frais4 ,sauce ,bordelaise4 ,silvorium #agif4 ,turos ,lepeny4 ,baracrkpalinka #ahfj4 ,there is a fairly good restaurant near the landing-place on the ,margarethen ,insel4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,roumania ,the dishes of the country--,the restaurants of ,bucarest4 ,in ,roumania you must never be astonished at the items set down in the bill of fare1 and if bear happens to be one try it1 for bruin does not make at all bad eating4 ,the list of game is generally surprisingly large1 and one learns in ,roumania the difference there is in the venison which comes from the different breeds of deer4 ,caviar1 being the produce of the country1 is a splendid dish1 and you are always asked which of the three varieties1 easily distinguishable by their variety of colour1 you will take4 ,a caviar salade is a dish very frequently served4 ,the following are some of the dishes of the country3--,ciulama1 chicken with a sauce in which flour and butter are used2 ,scordolea1 in which crawfish1 garlic1 minced nuts1 and oil all play a part2 ,baclava1 a cake of almonds served with sirop of roses4 ,these three dishes1 though now ,roumanian1 were originally introduced from ,turkey4 ,ardei ,ungelute is a dish of green pepper1 meat1 and rice2 ,sarmalute are vine leaves filled with meat and served with a preparation of milk2 ,militei is minced beef fried on a grill in the shape of a sausage4 ,cheslas and ,mamaliguzza1 the food of the peasant1 much resemble the ,italian ,polenta and are eaten with cold milk4 ,ghiveci1 a ragout with all kinds of vegetables mixed in it1 is a great dish of the country4 ,bucarest ,when in ,bucarest1 as it should be spelt1 go straight to ,capsa's in the ,calea ,victorici1 a first-rate restaurant4 ,it is perhaps not quite equal to the best of the ,london and ,paris establishments1 but the cooking is really good1 and certainly superior to anything you can find in ,vienna4 ,the ,french chef will provide you with a recherche dinner ordered a la carte4 ,fresh caviar is in perfection there1 as also the sterlet or young sturgeon2 the latter is caught in the ,danube1 and is a most dainty and much prized fish4 ,the prices are fairly high1--about #b francs #ej centimes for an ordinary plat4 ,the wines are all rather expensive1 that of the country being perhaps best left alone1 although the ,dragasani is a wine which tastes strangely at first1 but to which one becomes used4 ,a liqueur tasting of carraway seeds is pleasant1 but that made from the wild plum is not to be rashly ventured upon4 ,this is the menu of a little dinner for two eaten at ,capsa's3-- ,caviar4 ,ciorba de ,poulet4 ,turbot a la ,grec4 ,mousaka aux ,courzes4 ,gateaux4 ,and this a breakfast at the same establishment3-- ,glachi de ,carpe 7froid74 ,oeufs ,polenta4 ,pilau4 ,aubergines aux ,tomates4 ,there is also a confectioner's shop kept by ,capsa1 who was for some considerable time at ,boissier's in ,paris1 afterwards returning to ,bucarest and opening this establishment4 ,it is as good as that of any ,parisian confiseur1 with the result that all ,bucarest are his customers1 and his business is an extremely lucrative one4 ,a cheap dinner can be obtained1 a la carte1 at the ,hotel ,continental in the ,calea ,victorici1 opposite the ,theatre ,nationale4 ,jordachi's in the ,strada ,coatch1 and ,enesco's in the ,strada ,sfantu ,tonica1 also deserve mention2 they are cheap1 second-rate restaurants1 but you get there the dishes of the country4 ,in both these places a capital band of ,tziganes play the music of the country4 ,enesco's is1 perhaps1 the better of the two4 ,if you require any specialites the waiter will be sure to know what to advise2 one dish1 called ,brochettes de ,filet1 may be recommended4 ,the waiters at ,enesco's and ,jordachi's are intelligible in ,german and ,roumanian2 at the ,continental1 and especially at ,capsa's1 they are mostly ,french4 ,if you pay a call in ,bucarest you will be offered ,dolceazza1 a kind of sweetmeat1 and a glass of water4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,sweden4 ,,norway4 ,,denmark ,stockholm restaurants--,malmoe--,storvik--,gothenb urg--,christiana-- ,copenhagen--,elsinore4 ,stockholm ,of all the restaurants in the capital of ,sweden the ,hasselbacken1 in the ,royal ,djurgarten ,park1 is the most interesting to visit should it be open1 which it is from the beginning of ,march till the end of ,september4 ,during the early part of the season ,tziganes play in one of the small rooms1 whereas in summer a somewhat noisy orchestra plays in the garden4 ,the price of dinner1 a prix fixe1 is #c kronor #ej oere2 this includes soup1 fish1 meat1 releve 7generally a ,swedish guinea-fowl called hjaerpe7 and ice4 ,wine and coffee are of course extra4 ,the ,hasselbacken is often used for the giving of banquets of ceremony1 but the dinner at #c kr4 #ej oere is more likely to interest the stranger within the gates than the more extensive feasts1 so ,i give a typical menu of this very reasonably priced repast3-- ,puree a la ,reine4 ,saumon fume aux ,epinards4 ,selle de ,mouton aux ,legumes4 ,gelinottes roties4 ,salade4 ,soufflee au ,citron4 ,quite one of the best restaurants is in the ,hotel ,continental opposite the ,railway ,station4 ,the food here is excellent1 tornedos 7#a kr4 #ej oere7 and naesselkalsoppa1 an excellent soup made from a sort of young nettle1 being specialities4 ,the prices are slightly cheaper than those of the ,hasselbacken4 ,operakaellaren is a very good restaurant and one of the most popular4 ,they serve here a dejeuner at #a kr4 #ej oere consisting of an excellent dish of eggs 7a speciality of the place7 and meat and cheese or so-called sweet 7generally a very unwholesome stale cake with cream74 ,the table-d'hote dinners are excellent1 one being at #c kr4 #ej oere and the other at #b kr4 #ej oere2 the first consisting of soup 7thick soups being a speciality of the place71 fish1 entree1 meat1 and releve 7generally hjaerpe71 with a compote of ,swedish berries called lingon 7a sort of cranberry7 and an indifferent sweet or ice4 ,here1 as in most ,swedish eating-places1 objection is taken to coffee being served in the restaurants1 people being requested to take it in the cafe1 which is generally the next room4 ,supper is served at the ,operakaellaren1 and the restaurant is crowded for this meal4 ,it costs #b kronor and consists of a smoergasbord or copious hors-d'oeuvre1 an entree1 and meat4 ,the ,grand ,hotel is fairly popular1 owing to the smartness of the dining-room and the swagger way in which meals are served4 ,the food is not as good as the decorations4 ,the lunch costs #b kr4 #ej oere and the dinner #c kr4 #ej oere4 ,the ,hotel ,rydberg is also most popular1 and the food is good4 ,a great feature is made here1 as everywhere1 of the smoergasbord 7literally bread and butter7 table1 which has a room to itself and on which are a score or more of dishes1 there being some wonderful combinations of smoked eels and other fish and eggs amongst them4 ,there are from five to thirty of these dishes1 all delicate and appetising4 ,the guests eat them standing4 ,in the same room is a huge plated spirit-stand containing a number of different spirits1 white brandy called ,branvin1 and other drinks resembling ,vodka4 ,the crayfish1 kraftor1 a little larger than the ,french ones1 excellent in flavour and served in a terrine1 the bisque soup1 caviar served1 as of course it should be1 on a bed of ice are good at the ,rydberg and the cook manages to make even a ptarmigan toothsome4 ,it is a favourite place for people to sup at after the theatre4 ,the table-d'hote dinner costs #c kr4 #ej oere and the lunch #b kr4 #ej oere4 ,caloric punch is a favourite drink here1 as elsewhere in ,sweden1 and two men think nothing of drinking a bottle between them after dinner or supper4 ,the ,cafe du ,nord is very crowded and very popular1 although more bourgeois than the others4 ,the food is good1 meals being served mostly a la carte4 ,a good filet de boeuf costs about #ij oere4 ,the business men who mostly patronise this cafe dine from #c to #d ,p4,m4 ,many people sup there in the evening4 ,there are some excellently painted pictures in black and gold1 rather daring and ,french in subject1 on the walls4 ,there are also the ,cafe ,anglais 7fairly good7 and the ,hamburger ,boers4 ,the ,berns' ,salonger1 the ,blanch ,cafe and ,stroemparterren are cafes where coffee1 punch1 liqueurs1 and sandwiches may be had4 ,the former is the only one open in summer and winter1 the two latter being opened on #ast ,may without regard to the temperature1 and closed on #cjth ,september4 ,malmoe ,at ,malmoe1 which is the landing place from ,kiel1 there is a good dinner or lunch obtainable at the big hotel with twin turrets which faces the statue to ,gustavus ,adolphus4 ,storvik ,at ,storvik1 a station on the ,storlieu line1 there is a restaurant which is celebrated throughout ,sweden4 ,you are charged #b kronor1 which is the price of a meal at all railway refreshment rooms1 and help yourself at a big central table1 crayfish soup1 fish1 meat1 poultry1 game1 and sweets all being included in the meal1 and a glass of light beer4 ,gothenburg ,the restaurant of the ,haglund is a good one1 and ,i give one of the menus of its dinner at #c kronor3-- ,,soppa4 ,potage a la ,parmentier4 ,,fisk4 ,saumon grillee a la maitre d'hotel4 ,k,oe,t,t,r,ae,t,t4 ,langue de ,boeuf ,garni4 ,sauce aux ,olives1 ou ,fricandeau de veau aux pois4 ,,stek4 ,poulet a la ,printanier4 ,compotes4 ,e,f,t,e,r,r,ae,t,t4 ,bavaroise hollandaise ou ,framboises4 ,national ,dishes ,there are very few ,swedish national dishes1 milk1 cream1 butter1 and fish being1 however1 excellent4 ,the ,smoergasbord is the great institution of the country4 ,plaettar1 or ,swedish pancakes1 are also good4 ,norway ,norway is by no means a happy hunting ground for the gourmet4 ,salmon1 halibut1 and ptarmigan are the usual luxuries1 and they pall on the palate after a time4 ,the ,hotel ,victoria at ,christiana is well spoken of in the matter of cooking1 and the ,brittania at ,throndhjem is said to cater well considering the latitude it is situated in4 ,denmark ,from the gourmet's point of view there is little to write as to the ,copenhagen restaurants4 ,that of the ,hotel d',angleterre is good1 and a good word can also be said for the cooking at the ,hotel ,phoenix4 ,the ,tivoli ,gardens are the summer resort of ,copenhagen1 and all classes patronise them1 rich and poor both being catered for4 ,they are a magnified ,earl's ,court1 with the ,queen's ,hall and the booths from a ,french fair added4 ,there are restaurants of all kinds at the ,tivoli1 some being very popular and surprisingly cheap4 ,one of these restaurants1 the ,danish one1 is of interest and gives a very good national meal for #c kronor4 ,the ,cafe ,national is an excellent place at which to sup1 cold poached eggs in aspic being one of the delicacies of the house4 ,all the world makes expeditions to ,elsinore1 or as the ,danes1 regardless of ,shakespeare1 call it1 ,helingsoer4 ,there in the ,marienlyst you may see ,hamlet's grave1 which is so excellently built up that one would believe it to be really the burial place of a ,viking1 and you can lunch at the ,kursaal1 whence there is a delightful view across the ,sound to ,sweden4 ,there is a second park at ,elsinore where ,ophelia's pool is shown4 ,the meals in ,denmark are preceded by a feast of little delicacies1 sandwiches with the roof off as they have been aptly described1 which both men and ladies eat as they stand and chat before going into lunch or dinner1 as is the custom in ,sweden and ,russia also4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,russia ,food of the country--,restaurants in ,moscow--,the dining places of ,st4 ,petersburg--,odessa--,warsaw4 ,russian ,dishes ,the ,russians are a nation of gourmands1 for the ,zakouska1 the potatoes and celery1 spiced eels1 stuffed crayfish1 chillies stuffed with potato1 olives1 minced red cabbage1 smoked goose-flesh1 smoked salmon1 smoked sturgeon1 raw herring1 pickled mushrooms1 radishes1 caviar1 and a score of other appetisers1 and the petits pates1 the ,rastegai 7tiny pies of the lightest paste with a complicated fish stuffing and a little fresh caviar in the openings at the top71 the ,tartelettes ,st-,hubert1 any other little pasties of fish and flesh eaten with the soup1 could only be consumed by vigorous eaters4 ,soups are the contribution of ,russia to the cuisine of the world1 and the moujik1 when he first stirred some sour cream into his cabbage broth1 little thought that from his raw idea the majestic ,bortch would come into existence4 ,the two cold soups of which salt cucumber juice forms the foundation are curious4 ,there are other admirable soups of ,russian invention1 one1 ,selianka1 a fish soup made from the sterlet and sturgeon1 being much liked when a taste for it has been acquired4 ,the sturgeon of course comes into the menu of many ,russian dinners1 and also the sterlet1 cooked in white wine and served with shrimp sauce4 ,there is a fish pie of successive layers of rice1 eggs1 and fish1 which is one of the native dishes and is much like ,kedgeree4 ,boiled ,moscow sucking pig1 which in its short but happy life has tasted naught but cream1 boiled and served with horse-radish sauce and sour cream is a dish for good angels1 and roast mutton stuffed with buckwheat is not to be despised4 ,srazis are little rolled strips of mutton with forced meat inside1 fried in butter4 ,moscow is especially celebrated for its cutlets of all kinds1 chicken garnished with mushrooms and cream1 and veal in especial4 ,nesselrode ,pudding is frequently found on ,russian menus4 ,some of the peasant soups1 one for instance in which all the scraps of the kitchen are boiled with any grain and fruit which may be handy1 are dreadful decoctions4 ,russia has its native wines1 those of the ,caucasus being very good imitations of ,french wine4 ,there is a champagne of the ,don which often finds its way into bottles with ,french labels on them4 ,polynnaia1 a wormwood whisky1 is an excellent digestive4 ,i now let ,a4,b4 have his say4 ,moscow ,there are three principal restaurants in ,moscow--the ,bolskoi ,moscovski1 the ,ermitage1 and the ,slaviansky ,bazaar2 of these the ,ermitage and the ,bolskoi are probably the best for dinner4 ,the ,ermitage in ,trubnaia ,plastchad has a great reputation in ,moscow for its cuisine1 and is the favourite restaurant and resort of the upper class2 it has an imposing general luncheon and dining-hall1 also separate saloons for private dinner-parties4 ,most of the official banquets are held here4 ,the cost of a luncheon1 with choice of any two dishes from a list of fifteen or twenty1 is #a rouble4 ,dinners can be had for-- #a rouble #be kopeks 7#f courses7 or #b roubles #be 7#h courses7 ,the restaurants are generally open till about #b ,a4,m4 ,the numerous waiters are dressed in white on week days1 on ,sundays and feast days in coloured silk ,tartar dresses4 ,a large orchestrion plays from time to time during meals4 ,this restaurant has three head chefs and thirty-eight chefs1 besides patissiers and all the smaller fry of the kitchen4 ,the store-rooms for game1 etc41 form one of the sights of ,moscow1 and should be seen4 ,there is a service of ,sevres china1 which is very beautiful1 and on which dinners are served on very special occasions4 ,an extra charge1 and a high one1 is made for the use of this4 ,the ,ermitage is unlike any other restaurant in the world in many respects4 ,there is an admirable cellar of wines1 and it is not a place for a man to give a big dinner at unless he is prepared to encounter a very big bill4 ,in ,russia there is1 as you will see by the subjoined menu of a typical ,ermitage dinner1 a sort of intermediate course between the soup and the fish called petits pates1 which rather takes the place of an entree1 and although counted as nothing when it is preceded by the ,sakouska 7i4e4 a preliminary stand up snack which waylays you at a separate buffet as you walk into dinner and consists of all sorts of appetissants such as caviar1 cunningly smoked fish1 olives1 etc41 with ,kuemmel and other liqueurs as an accompaniment7 the smallest dinner resolves itself into a formidable repast that perhaps only a ,russian would be capable of doing full justice to4 ,,ermitage ,,restaurant4 ,,menu4 ,consomme ,bariatinsky4 ,petits ,pates4 ,timbale ,napolitaine4 ,vol-au-vent ,rossini4 ,friands a la ,reine4 ,tartelettes ,st-,hubert4 ,esturgeon en ,vin de ,champagne4 ,selle de ,mouton d',ecosse ,nesselrode4 ,punch ,imperial4 ,becasses4 ,cailles4 ,salade et ,concombres ,sales4 ,chouxfleurs4 ,sauce ,polonaise4 ,bombe en ,surprise4 ,dessert4 ,the ,bolskoi ,moscovski is opposite the town hall and has a spacious and fine central dining-hall4 ,here also the waiters are dressed in white1 and an orchestrion discourses music during meal times4 ,its prices are practically the same as at the ,ermitage4 ,testoff's is another good restaurant where purely ,russian dishes are served2 it is therefore interesting and worth a visit1 and gives a very good insight as to the national cuisine4 ,these restaurants are much frequented at lunch time1 especially in summer1 when families are out in ,datchas or villas in the environs of ,moscow1 and the men have to lunch in town4 ,in winter they are full until late in the evening4 ,one of the best lunch-places in ,moscow is the ,slaviansky ,bazaar in ,nikolski ,street1 ,kitaigorod1 situated in the city or business centre of ,moscow4 ,it is a mid-day resort of the business men and travellers staying at the hotel1 but is more or less deserted afterwards4 ,it has a spacious and lofty restaurant hall and takes in the ,times and ,english illustrated papers4 ,it was formerly noted for its regular ,english table for members of the colony1 who1 however1 subsequently deserted it to some extent for the three main restaurants4 ,here luncheons can be had with excellent choice a la carte4 ,dinners cost from #a rouble #be kopeks4 ,in addition to these regular restaurants there are several summer garden resorts of a gayer character with cafes1 theatres1 open-air stages1 and various cafe-chantant amusements4 ,these resorts are at their gayest in the early hours of the morning1 till #d ,a4,m41 when the company becomes somewhat varied1 and as the guide-books sagely remark1 ,gentlemen had better leave their ladies at the hotel4 ,these places are prettily laid out1 and in the afternoon and early part of the evening serve to pass a pleasant hour or two in the summer4 ,dress clothes are not generally worn when visiting them4 ,in the town the two best ones are the ,aquarium and the ,ermitage ,sad 7,sad is ,russian for garden71 not the same as the ,ermitage ,restaurant above mentioned4 ,admission to gardens1 #ej kopeks4 ,the ,yar and the ,strelna are favourite restaurant late-evening resorts near the ,petrovski ,park1 a short drive out4 ,the ,yar is open in the summer and winter1 but the ,strelna in the winter only4 ,st4 ,petersburg ,st4 ,petersburg has nominally three first-class restaurants1 viz41 the ,bear 7,l',ours7 on the ,bolschaya ,kononschaya2 the ,restaurant de ,paris1 known as ,cubat's1 on the ,bolschaya ,marskaya2 and ,donon's on the ,moika ,canal4 ,all of them are good4 ,donon's has an excellent cellar and supplies a good dinner if ordered in advance4 ,the price of the set meals is very reasonable1 about #b roubles or #ds4 #d;d4 per head2 but the profits are made on the wines1 which are ridiculously expensive 7owing to the enormous duties74 ,for instance1 a bottle of vin ordinaire costs #d roubles #ej kopeks1 or #is4 #h;d41 and no bottle of dry champagne can be had for less than #aj roubles or #bas4 #h;d42 a whisky and soda is charged #a rouble #ej kopeks1 and in some places #b roubles2 a half bottle of wine is always charged #ej kopeks more than the actual half bottle price4 ,the ,hotel de ,france has a luncheon at #ge kopeks1 or #as4 #f;d41 which is very popular with the business community of ,st4 ,petersburg1 and it is crowded from #ab4cj to #b o'clock4 ,the food is not high class but of a good bourgeois description1 and the place is kept by a ,belgian named ,renault4 ,it is one of the best hotels in ,st4 ,petersburg1 and its situation is suited to the purpose2 but1 as a matter of fact1 there is absolutely no first-class hotel either in ,st4 ,petersburg or ,moscow1 and sanitation is a factor that has not yet penetrated into the ,russian intellect4 ,a man who eats oysters in ,russia1 eats his own damnation1 and at a high price in both senses2 they are both costly and poisonous in a town where typhoid is easily contracted4 ,in the summer there are two good restaurants on the islands1 a few miles from ,st4 ,petersburg1 a sort of ,richmond to ,st4 ,petersburg1--,felicien's1 a dependence of ,cubat's2 and ,ernest's1 a branch of the ,cafe de l',ours1 and managed by a brother of the proprietor4 ,both these have an excellent cuisine and cellar1 but the charges1 especially at ,felicien's1 are fairly extravagant4 ,bands of music and pretty gardens are features of these restaurants1 and ,felicien's has a terrace on the river opposite the ,emperor's summer palace on the ,island of ,iliargin4 ,they are both practically closed during the winter1 excepting by arrangement or when sleighing parties make a rendezvous there4 ,there is also a ,german restaurant1 ,lemner's1 at ,no4 #ah ,newsky ,prospect1 where a good1 cheap ,german repast can be procured for #a rouble and drink therewith1 ,russian pilsener or ,munich beer4 ,odessa ,at the great port on the ,black ,sea the restaurant of the ,hotel de ,londres ,yastchouk is one of the best in ,russia4 ,yastchouk was the name of its late proprietor1 who died in #aijb1 and was a real lover of good cookery1 enjoying nothing more than to serve an exquisite meal to a real connoisseur4 ,when any gourmet came to his restaurant1 he would ask him whether he came from the north or the south4 ,if from the north1 he would suggest a real southern meal1 with ,rougets a la ,grec and the delicious ,agneau de lait1 unobtainable in ,st4 ,petersburg1 and a ragout of aubergines and tomatoes4 ,if from the south1 he would recommend a good ,bortch with petits pates1 or a slice of ,koulebiaka1 a great pot-pie full of all kinds of good things1 or some milk-white sucking-pig covered with cream and horse-radish4 ,yastchouk has joined the majority1 but his restaurant is carried on in the same spirit as when he was alive4 ,warsaw ,bruehl's used to be the one good restaurant in the capital of ,poland1 but the restaurant of the ,bristol1 new1 clean1 smart1 and cheap1 with a ,french maitre-d'hotel in command1 is commended and recommended4 ,when the ,bristol restaurant at night has all its electric lights in full glow it looks like the magic cave into which ,aladdin penetrated4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,turkey ,turkish dishes--,constantinople restaurants4 ,constantinople ,one of the hotels in the restaurant at which very good food is obtainable is the ,pera ,palace2 but the hundreds of dogs that are allowed to infest the city for scavenging purposes1 and who disgracefully neglect their business in order to bark and howl dismally all night1 would ruin the best hotel in creation4 ,therefore1 if in the summer1 ,i should advise any man to go to the ,summer ,palace ,hotel at ,therapia1 a few miles from the city1 on the ,bosphorus1 which is perfectly delightful1 and to run into ,constantinople by river steamer to visit the mosques1 bazaars1 etc4--but this by the way4 ,the best restaurant in ,constantinople is ,tokatlian's1 in the ,rue de ,pera2 it is very good but expensive1 for all wines1 spirits1 etc41 coming into ,turkey have to pay a heavy duty4 ,there is a strong native wine of a sauterne character made in ,turkey1 also ,duzico1 a sort of ,kuemmel liqueur1 not bad1 and ,mastic1 another chasse1 especially nasty4 ,you can obtain ,turkish dishes at ,tokatlian's4 ,the ,turkish kahabs and pilaffs of chicken are good1 but their appearance is not appetising and they are too satisfying4 ,a little rice and beef1 rather aromatic in taste1 is wrapped round with a thin vine leaf1 in balls the size of a walnut1 and eaten either hot or cold4 ,this is called ,yalandji ,dolmas4 ,yaourt or ,lait ,caille is a milk curd1 rather like what is called ,dicke ,milch in ,germany4 ,aubergines are eaten in every form2 one method of cooking them1 and that one not easily forgotten1 is to smother a cold aubergine in onion1 garlic1 salt1 and oil2 this is named ,ymam ,bayldi4 ,keinfte are small meatballs tasting strongly of onions4 ,plaki fish1 eaten cold2 ,picti fish in aspic2 small octopi stewed in oil2 ,moussaka1 vegetable marrows sliced1 with chopped meat between the slices and baked2 ,yachni1 meat stewed with celery and other vegetables2 ,kebap1 kabobs with a bay-leaf between each little bit of meat2 ,kastanato1 roasted chestnuts stewed in honey1 and quinces treated in the same manner2 vermicelli stewed in honey2 and preserves of rose leaves1 orange flowers1 and jessamine1 all are to be found in the ,turkish cuisine4 ,the ,roti ,kouzoum is lamb impaled whole on a spit like a sucking-pig1 which it rather resembles in size1 being very small4 ,it is well over-roasted and sent up whole4 ,i am informed on the best authority that when a host wishes to do you honour he tears pieces off it with his fingers and places them before you1 and you have to devour them in the same manner4 ,when ,i was in ,turkey last year ,i had the misfortune not to be introduced to the privacy of a ,turkish family gathering1 so ,i have to confess that ,i have not yet accomplished this feat myself4 ,there is a very good fish when in season in the summer1 called espadon1 or sword-fish1 but the butcher's meat1 unless you have good teeth1 is not often eatable4 ,the natives are mostly vegetarians2 beans1 small cucumbers1 rice and what cheap fruits may be in season are their principal food2 water1 about which they are most particular1 is the principal beverage of all ,turks from the highest to the lowest class4 ,i herewith give a typical ,turkish dinner3-- ,duzico4 ,hors-d'oeuvre4 ,yalandji ,dolmas4 ,,potage4 ,creme d',orge4 ,,poisson4 ,espadon4 ,sce4 ,anchois4 ,,entree4 ,boughou ,kebabs4 ,carni ,yanik4 ,,roti4 ,kouzoum4 ,,legumes4 ,bahmieh a l',orientale4 ,ymam ,bayldi4 ,,entremets4 ,yaourt et ,fruits4 ,the charges in ,turkey on the whole are moderate1 but the ,turkish coinage is somewhat confusing1 and even a ,scotch ,jew1 who had been brought up in ,new ,york1 would find it a matter of difficulty to hold his own with the unspeakable ,turk when it came to a question of small change4 ,tokatlian has a branch establishment of a bourgeois description for business people just outside the big bazaar at ,stamboul1 the ,restaurant ,grand ,bazaar1 where there are plenty of good dishes1 besides native experiments1 which are worth trying4 ,here the charges are very moderate4 ,the food at the ,royal and ,bellevue ,hotels and ,dimitri's is also good1 and for supper you can go to ,yani's1 which is open practically all night1 but perhaps not so eminently respectable as the other restaurants ,i have mentioned4 ,a4,b4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,greece ,grecian ,dishes--,athens4 ,no one lives better than a well-to-do ,greek outside his own country1 and when he is in ,greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material4 ,a ,greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable1 and the number of ways he has of cooking quails1 from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil1 are innumerable4 ,there are pillaus without number in the ,greek cuisine1 chiefly of lamb1 and it is safe to take for granted that anything a la ,grec is likely to be something savoury1 with a good deal of oil1 a suspicion of onion1 a flavour of parsley1 and a good deal of rice with it4 ,these1 however1 are some of the most distinctive dishes3--,coucouretzi1 the entrails and liver of lamb1 roasted on a spit2 ,bligouri1 wheat coarsely ground1 cooked in broth1 and eaten with grated cheese2 ,argokalamara1 a paste of flour and yolk of egg fried in butter with honey poured over it4 ,all ,greek cooking1 as all ,turkish is1 should be done very slowly over a charcoal fire4 ,a too great use of oil is the besetting sin of the indifferent ,greek cook4 ,the egg-plant is treated in half-a-dozen ways by the ,greeks1 stuffing them with some simple forced meat being the most common4 ,the food of the peasant is grain1 rice1 goat when he can get it1 a skinny fowl as a great delicacy1 milk1 and strong cheese4 ,a bunch of grapes and a piece of sour bread forms a feast for him4 ,the ,grecian wines are not unpalatable but very light4 ,they are mostly exported to ,vienna1 being fortified previous to their departure to enable them to stand the voyage1 and again manipulated on their arrival1 so that their original characteristics are considerably obliterated4 ,athens ,my trusted collaborateur ,a4,b4 went on a yachting tour in ,grecian waters last spring1 having a special intention of studying ,greek restaurants4 ,he wrote to me as to ,athens1 and his report was short and to the point3 ,outside the hotels there is but one cafe1 ,solon's1 principally used as a political rendezvous4 ,its attractions are of the most meagre description4 ,a most grave litterateur to whom1 as he had been lately travelling in ,greece1 and as ,i had not been there for ten years1 ,i applied for supplementary information1 applied the adjective beastly to all ,greek restaurants1 and added that the one great crying need of ,greece and ,athens is an ,american bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the ,parthenon4 ,n4,n4-,d4 ,,index ,aachen1 #ace ,abbaye de ,theleme ,restaurant1 #cc ,acqua ,litiosa di ,s4 ,marco1 #aga ,agnolotti1 #aeh ,aix-la-,chapelle1 #ace ,aix-les-,bains1 #gd ,albergo ,giappone1 ,leghorn1 #agj ,algeciras1 #aib ,allemania1 ,frankfurt1 #abh ,alster ,cafe1 ,hamburg1 #adc ,ambassadeurs ,restaurant1 #bg ,ambleteuse1 #cg ,amsterdam1 #aji ,anglais1 ,cafe1 #e1 #f1 #h ,anguille di ,comacchio1 #aff ,antwerp1 #hc ,ardei ,ungelute1 #bjg ,argokalamara1 #bcj ,arles1 #gc ,arselle alla ,marinara1 #aga ,artichokes1 #dh1 #agc ,asparagus1 #c ,athens1 #bca ,aubanel1 ,m41 #bi ,aubergines1 #bbg ,bacalas1 #agi ,bacchio e ,capretto alla ,cacciatora1 #agd ,bachelier1 #fe ,baclava1 #bjg ,bad ,gastein1 #bjd ,baden1 #aih ,baden-,baden1 #acd ,barbue ,paillard1 #ac ,durand1 #ag a la ,russe1 #ah ,barcelona1 #ahj ,baron d'agneau ,henri ,,iv41 #ab ,bars1 #ca ,basle1 #aec ,bauernschaenke1 ,berlin1 #aej ,bauer's ,cafe1 ,berlin1 #adi ,bayonne ,restaurant1 #ej1 #ea ,beaufils1 #ch ,beaulieu1 #fj ,beauvillier's ,cafe1 #d ,becasse ,flambee1 #ah au ,fumet1 #ab ,beer1 #ajc1 #aag1 #abj1 #aba1 #abh1 #abi1 #ach1 #aif cellars1 #aad ,belgium1 #gi ,belvedere ,restaurant1 ,dresden1 #aah ,bequet1 #db ,berk1 #cg ,berlin1 #add ,bern1 #aed ,bertrand's ,restaurant1 #hd ,biarritz1 #eb ,bignon's ,cafe1 #d ,birds1 #c1 #hb1 #ih ,biscuit ,foyot1 #be ,blanche ,restaurant1 #cc ,bligouri1 #bcj ,bobadilla1 #aij ,boeuf1 ,cote de1 braise ,empire1 #ab ,boeuf a la mode ,restaurant1 #ba ,bologna1 #aff ,borchard's ,restaurant1 ,berlin1 #adf ,bordeaux1 #ej ,cafe de1 #ej1 #ea ,borel1 #d ,bouillabaisse1 #da1 #ed1 #ee1 #gc1 #gf ,bouillon ,riche ,restaurant1 #bg ,bouillons1 #cd ,boulogne1 #cf ,bouzoum1 ,madame1 #ga ,brandade1 #ee ,bratwurstgloecklein1 #abc ,brest1 #di ,breton menu1 #dh ,brill1 #b ,bristol ,restaurant1 ,berlin1 #ade ,broccoli1 #agd ,broche a ,rotir1 #db ,bruges1 #hh ,brun1 ,hotel 7,bologna71 #aff ,brussels1 restaurants at1 #ic1 #ajc ,bucarest1 #bjh ,budapesth1 #bjd ,buerose ,restaurant1 ,frankfurt1 #abh ,burdel1 ,m41 #h ,burgos1 #ahg ,burgundy1 #hj1 #hh1 #id1 #ajj1 #aji ,busecca1 #afj ,cabois1 #ch ,cabourg1 #dc ,cadiz and ,jerez1 #aia ,caen1 #dd ,caesario1 #ah ,cafe de ,paris1 #cj ,americain1 #cj de la ,cascade1 #bi de la ,paix1 #cj ,caille a la ,souvaroff1 #ah ,calais1 #ce ,caldo1 #agi ,canape ,clarence ,mackay1 #bc ,canard ,pompeienne1 #bf a la ,presse1 #c1 #ag ,cancale1 #dg ,caneton de ,rouen au ,sang1 #ah ,caneton ,rouennaise1 #db ,cannes1 #ef ,capeletti1 #aeh ,carbonades ,flamandes1 #ha ,cardons1 #afj ,carlsbad1 #aii ,carpe a la ,gelee1 #e ,casimir1 #d ,casino1 ,hotel du1 ,cherbourg1 #df ,municipal1 ,biarritz1 #eb ,castagnacci alla ,pisana1 #afi ,caviar1 #adc1 #bjg1 #bjh1 #bab ,cellars1 #g1 #aj1 #be ,cepes a la ,bordelaise1 #ea ,chabas1 ,m4 ,paul1 #gc ,champagne1 #ii1 #ajj1 #aaf1 #adh ,champeaux ,restaurant1 #bb ,chapon ,fin1 #ej1 #ea ,charcutiers1 #dd ,charles1 #aa ,chateau de ,madrid1 #bh ,laroque1 #hi ,chateaubriand1 #bb ,cherbourg1 #df ,cheslas1 #bjh ,cheval ,blanc ,restaurant1 #dc ,chevillard's ,restaurant1 #bh ,choesels a la ,bruxelloise1 #ha ,choux ,farcies1 #dc ,cider1 #dc1 #de ,cinghiale in agro dolce1 #agd ,ciulama1 #bjg ,claret1 #ej ,clermont-,ferrand1 #gh ,club restaurant1 #ca ,codeghino1 #afg ,coffee1 #ic1 #acf ,cologne1 #abi ,colon ,restaurant1 ,barcelona1 #aha ,confit d',oie1 #fi ,consomme ,fortunato1 #ae ,baigneuse1 #ag ,constantinople1 #bbf ,cost of dinners1 #h1 #ad1 #ag1 #bi1 #cd1 #ci1 #dj1 #dh1 #fe1 #hj1 #hd1 #hh1 #hi1 #bbi ,cote de ,boeuf a la ,russe1 #ajg ,cotelette alla ,marsigliese1 #afb a la ,milanese1 #afb ,cotelettes d',izard marine1 #fi ,coucouretzi1 #bcj ,creme de ,langoustines1 #fe ,germiny1 #ac ,crepes des ,gourmets1 #ae ,suzette1 #ah ,criterium ,restaurant1 ,antwerp1 #hd ,croutes au ,champignons1 #ci ,d',hortesio's ,cafe1 #d ,denmark1 #bae ,desir1 ,le1 de ,roi1 #aa ,dieppe1 #cg ,dinard1 #dg ,diner ,francais ,restaurant1 #cd ,dresden1 #aad1 #aba ,dressel ,restaurant1 ,berlin1 #adg ,drouet1 ,henri1 #ad ,ducordet1 ,m41 #ch ,duglere1 #b1 #h ,durand's ,restaurant1 #ad1 #af1 #cj ,duesseldorf1 #abh ,echenard1 ,m41 #ed ,ecrevisses ,bordelaises1 #ci1 #gf ,regina1 #if ,eggs1 #dh ,elysee ,palace ,hotel1 #ah ,ems1 #ace ,ermitage ,restaurant1 #bai ,estoril1 #aie ,etaples1 #cg ,faina1 #afc ,faisan a la ,financiere1 #c ,fegatini di pollo1 #afi ,fegato alla ,veneziana1 #aff ,ferme ,st-,simeon1 #dc ,fiesoli1 #afi ,figs1 #afc1 #afi ,filet de ,lievre ,arnold ,white1 #bc ,paillard1 #ab ,selle ,czarine1 #ab ,filet de ,sole1 #ab ,cardinal1 #bc ,gibbs1 #bc ,martin1 #ahd ,mornay1 #h ,noel1 #ba ,la ,peyrouse1 #be ,fishes1 #b1 #ba1 #ec1 #fd ,florence1 #afh ,fonduta1 #afj ,fowls1 #b ,foyot's ,restaurant1 #aa1 #bb1 #be ,francais ,restaurant1 ,nice1 #eh ,restaurant1 #db ,france1 ,hotel de1 ,cherbourg1 #dg ,frankfurt-am-,main1 #abf ,frankfurter ,hof1 #abf ,frascati's ,restaurant1 #ci ,frederic1 #aa1 #bc ,fritto ,misto1 #aeh1 #aga di ,calamaretti1 #agd ,picatto1 #afb ,friture du ,pays1 #ec ,gaillon ,restaurant1 #aa1 #ad ,game1 #c1 #aaf1 #bai ,garbure soup1 #fi ,garnier1 ,restaurant1 #cf ,gazpaco1 #agi ,geneva1 #aed1 #aee ,genoa1 #afc ,german restaurant1 #ca cooking1 #aaj ,germiny1 ,creme1 #ac ,ghent1 #hj ,ghiveci1 #bjh ,gianduiotti1 #afj ,gieshuebl1 #bjb ,gigot de sept heures1 #i ,glace ,gismonda1 #ah ,gnocchi di ,patele1 #agd ,gothenburg1 #bac ,goulache1 #bjd ,graff1 ,m4 ,paul1 #ch ,grand ,hotel de l',europe1 ,spa1 #hg ,grand ,port1 #gf ,revard1 #gf ,grand ,seize1 #e1 #g1 #h ,greece1 #bcj ,grenada1 #aia ,grissini1 #afj ,grives a la ,namuroise1 #hb ,grouse1 #hc ,gudgeon1 #b ,guepet1 #d ,guichard1 #ga1 #gb ,guillemin1 #bg ,hague1 #aje ,hamburg1 #ach ,hanover1 #abd ,hardi1 ,cafe1 #d ,hareng ,lucas1 #bb ,hartmann's ,restaurant1 #aig ,hasselbacken ,restaurant1 #baj ,havre1 #ch ,helder ,restaurant1 #ff1 #ib ,henrion's ,grand ,hotel1 ,aachen1 #ace ,henri's ,restaurant1 ,gaillon1 #ad ,heyste1 #hi ,hochepot ,gantois1 #ha ,hofbrauhaus1 ,munich1 #aba ,holland1 #aje ,homard ,cardinal1 #ab1 #aig a l',americaine1 #da1 #de1 #ajg ,foyot1 #be chaud a beurre truffe1 #adh ,homburg1 #aca ,honfleur1 #dc ,huitres ,titania1 #aig ,irish stew1 #if ,isnard's ,restaurant1 #ef ,italian cookery1 #aeg restaurants1 #ca ,joseph1 #aa1 #bc ,julia1 ,mlle41 #di ,julien's ,cafe1 #cj ,justin's ,restaurant1 ,barcelona1 #ahj ,kaiserkeller1 ,berlin1 #aej ,kastanato1 #bbg ,kebap1 #bbg ,keinfte1 #bbg ,kempinsky's ,restaurant1 ,berlin1 #adg ,kiel1 #acg ,kneist1 ,dresden1 #abj ,lafosse's ,restaurant1 #cg ,laiterie1 ,brussels1 #aeb ,lampreys1 #b1 #ea ,la ,peyrouse ,restaurant1 #bb1 #be ,la ,rue's ,restaurant1 #af1 #cj ,laurent's ,restaurant1 #bf ,ledoyen's ,restaurant1 #bg ,l',etoile1 ,brussels1 #ajj ,lefebvre1 #ch ,leghorn1 #agj ,leipzig1 #abe ,le ,navigateur1 #be ,lennertz's ,restaurant1 ,aachen1 #acf ,liqueurs1 #bb ,lisbon1 #ahj1 #aib ,lobsters1 #de1 #dh ,london ,house1 ,nice1 #eh ,lucas's ,restaurant1 #ba1 #cb ,lucerne1 #aec ,maccheroni1 #aeh ,madrid1 #ahg ,madrid1 ,restaurant de1 #dd ,maire's ,restaurant1 #bj1 #bf1 #cj ,maison ,doree1 ,barcelona1 #ahd ,maison ,grossetete1 #ad d',or ,cafe1 #d1 #f1 #h ,malmoe1 #bac ,mamaliguzza1 #bjh ,marguery's ,restaurant1 #ba ,marienbad1 #bjc ,marivaux ,cafe1 #aa ,marseilles1 #ed ,martigues1 #gc ,maxim's ,restaurant1 #cj ,medoc1 #if1 #ig ,meizanne1 #afc ,mentone1 #fh ,menus1 #g1 #i1 #ac1 #ae1 #ag1 #ai1 #bh1 #dh1 #ec1 #eh1 #ei1 #fc1 #fd1 #ff1 #fg1 #hj1 #hg1 #ig1 #ajg1 #ajh1 #acb1 #adj1 #ada1 #add1 #adf1 #adh1 #aef1 #afd1 #aha1 #ahb1 #ahc1 #ahe1 #ahh1 #aib1 #aic1 #bjf1 #bjh1 #baa1 #bad1 #bbj1 #bbh ,milan1 #afa ,militei1 #bjg ,milk1 #bh1 #cg ,minestrone1 #ec1 #aeh1 #afa1 #afc ,monte ,carlo1 #fa ,mortadella1 #afg ,moscardini1 #afc ,moscow1 #bah ,mottez's ,restaurant1 #ha ,moules a la mariniere1 #ii ,mourier1 ,m41 #cj ,moussaka1 #bbg ,mozzarelle in carozza1 #agf ,munich1 #aba ,mushrooms1 #bj ,mutton1 #dg ,naples1 #agd ,nassauer ,hof1 ,wiesbaden1 #acc ,naesselkalsoppa1 #baa ,national ,hotel1 ,lucerne1 #aec ,neues ,palais de ,saxe1 ,dresden1 #aai ,nice1 #eh ,nimes1 #gd ,noailles ,hotel1 ,marseilles1 #ed ,noel ,peter's ,restaurant1 #ba ,noisettes de ,veau ,port ,mahon1 #ae ,normandie1 ,hotel de1 #dj ,norway1 #bad ,notta1 #aa ,nuremberg1 #abb hotels1 #abd ,odessa1 #bbd ,oeufs ,claude ,lowther1 #bc ,omelette ,siberienne1 #ajg ,souffles1 #acf ,oranges a l',infante1 #aig ,ortolans en surprise1 #ac ,ossobuco1 #afb ,ostend1 #hi ,oysters1 #cb1 #de1 #dg1 #di1 #eb1 #fj1 #acf1 #adg cellars1 #adb ,paillard's ,restaurant1 #aa1 #bf1 #cj ,palast ,hotel1 ,furstenhof1 #abg ,berlin1 #adg ,palermo1 #agg ,palmen ,garten1 ,frankfurt1 #abg ,panettone1 #afb ,paprika1 #bjd ,paprikahuhn1 #bjd ,paris and cookery1 #a ,cafe de1 #d ,plage1 #cg ,restaurant de1 #db ,park ,hotel1 ,duesseldorf1 #abh ,partridges1 #c1 #hc1 #bja ,paste asciutte1 #aeh ,pasticcio di ,maccheroni1 #agd ,pasqualina1 #afc ,pattona alla ,pisana1 #afi ,pau1 #ga ,pavillion d',armenonville1 #bh ,bleu1 #cd ,henri ,,iv41 #cd ,peches ,flambees1 #ah ,pepin ,restaurant1 #dd ,pepperoni1 #afj ,perdreau et ,caille ,paillard1 #ac ,perdrix au choux1 #c1 #ajg ,perpadelle1 #aeh col ,ragout1 #afg ,perrier's ,restaurant1 #da ,peyrafitte1 ,joseph1 #gb ,pforte's ,restaurant1 ,hamburg1 #ach ,phillipe's ,cafe1 #d1 #cd ,pisa1 #afi ,pizzaiola1 ,steak alla1 #agf ,pizza alla1 #agf ,plattaer1 #bad ,poire ,wannamaker1 #bc ,alaska1 #ajg ,pollo en padella1 #agd ,polpette a la ,milanese1 #afb ,polpi alla ,luciana1 #agf ,pomme ,otero1 #ab ,georgette1 #ab ,macaire1 #ab ,port ,bou1 #ahd ,potage ,henri ,,iv41 #ag ,foyot1 #be ,germiny1 #h ,reine1 #ah ,potatoes1 #dh ,poulard ,aine1 ,mont ,st-,michel1 #dh ,poularde ,maison d',or1 #e ,archiduc1 #ab a la ,derby1 #ab a la ,parisienne1 #ajg ,reserve en ,cocotte ,raviolis1 #ee a la ,santos ,dumont1 #fe ,wladimir1 #ab1 #aig ,poule au pot ,henri ,,iv41 #ajg ,poulet ,saute ,grand ,duc1 #ag ,maire1 #ba ,saute petits diables1 #ag ,pourville1 #ch ,prague1 #bjd ,prawns1 #ag1 #dc1 #dh ,presciutto con fichi1 #afi ,prices charged at restaurants1 #h1 #ad1 #ag1 #bi1 #cd1 #ci1 #dj1 #dc1 #de1 #ej1 #eb1 #eg1 #eh1 #fa1 #fc1 #ff1 #ge1 #hh1 #if1 #ig1 #aje1 #aae1 #aai1 #abh1 #acd1 #acf1 #add1 #adg1 #adh1 #aee1 #afd1 #aff1 #aha1 #ahc1 #bja1 #bji1 #baj1 #bab1 #bai1 #bba1 #bbc ,prinz ,wilhelm ,cafe1 ,berlin1 #adi ,provence1 #gc ,prunier's restaurant1 #cb ,pucca baruca1 #aff ,puchero1 #agi ,puloski's ,restaurant1 #cb ,puys1 #ch ,pyrenees1 the1 #fi ,quadri1 ,restaurant1 ,venice1 #afd ,rat ,mort ,restaurant1 #cc ,rathskeller1 #aac ,hamburg1 #adc ,wiesbaden1 #acd ,ravioli1 #aeh ,regence1 restaurant1 ,nice1 #ei ,reichshof1 ,berlin1 #adi ,remoulins1 #gd ,reserve1 cafe1 ,marseilles1 #ed ,cannes1 #ef ,restaurant de la 7,beaulieu71 #fj ,restaurant1 good cheap1 #cc ,restaurant ,re1 #ff des ,fleurs1 #ca ,summer1 #bf ,riche1 ,cafe1 #d ,risotto1 #aeh1 #aga ,certosino1 #afb ,milanese1 #afb ,ritz1 ,hotel1 #ad1 #ah ,ritz1 ,m41 #aec ,riz de ,veau ,foyot1 #be ,rocher de ,cancale1 restaurant1 #d1 #hd ,roches ,noire1 #dc ,rognone ,trifolato1 #afj ,rome1 #agb ,roti ,kouzoum1 #bbg ,rotterdam1 #aji ,rouen1 #db ,rouennais ,paillard1 #ab a la ,presse1 #ab ,roumania1 #bjg ,rudesheimer restaurant1 #adi ,rumpelmayer1 #ga1 #gf ,russian restaurant1 #ca dishes1 #bag ,sacher's ,restaurant1 ,vienna1 #aig ,salade ,gauloise1 #ah ,georgette1 #ag ,ideale1 #ab de ,princesses ,liegeoises1 #ha ,russe1 #ci ,salamanca1 #e ,san ,sebastian1 #ahd ,santander1 #ahg ,sardines1 #b1 #dh ,sarmalute1 #bjg ,sauerkraut1 #aaa ,scheveningen1 #aji ,schiacciata1 #afi ,schweitzerhof1 ,lucerne1 #aec ,scordolea1 #bjg ,selianka1 #bah ,seville1 #ahi ,shrimps1 #cg1 #dc ,smoergasbord1 #bab1 #bad ,snails1 #cb ,sole au vin ,rouge1 #e ,marguery1 #ba ,normande1 #cf1 #db1 #ajg ,paillard1 #ab ,waleska1 #fe ,sole1 filet de1 a la ,russe1 #ab ,egyptiennes1 #fe ,kotchoubey1 #ab ,soles1 #b ,sopa de ,camarao1 #aid ,sou ,fassu1 #gc ,souffle ,palmyre1 #ajg ,souffle ,pole ,nord1 #ag ,king ,edward ,,vii41 #aig ,spa1 #he ,spagetti1 #aeh1 #agg ,spagetti alle ,vongole1 #agf ,spaghetti a sugo di carne1 #aga ,spanish restaurants1 #ca cookery1 #agh ,spezzia1 #afg ,spigola1 #agf ,srazis1 #bah ,st-,cloud1 #cd ,st-,germain1 #cd ,st-,malo1 #dg ,st-,petersburg1 #bbb ,st-,remy1 #gd ,stadt ,gotha ,restaurant1 ,dresden1 #aai ,stephan ,keller1 #aig ,stocafisso alla ,genovese1 #afc ,stockholm1 #baj ,storvik1 #bac ,stracotto1 #afi ,supreme de ,volaille ,grand ,duc1 #ab ,switzerland1 #aea ,sylvain's ,restaurant1 #bb1 #cj ,tarascon1 #gc ,tavernes1 #cj1 #cb1 #cd ,terrine de ,fois ,gras a la gelee au ,porto1 #ac ,tettachine1 #aeh ,thurion's ,restaurant1 #cc ,thuernagel ,restaurant1 ,duesseldorf1 #abh ,tiedemann and ,grahl's ,restaurant1 #aai ,timbale de queues d',ecrevisses1 ,mantua1 #ab ,tirlemont1 #gi ,tomatoes1 #agf ,topper's ,cafe1 ,berlin1 #adi ,tortoni's ,restaurant1 #ch brasserie1 #ci ,tour d',argent1 #aa1 #bb ,tournedos a la ,rossini1 #ah ,treteau de ,tabarin ,restaurant1 #cb ,triglie alla ,livornese1 #aga ,trinetti1 #aeh ,tripes a la mode de ,caen1 #dd ,trois ,freres ,provenceaux ,cafe1 #d ,trout1 #b1 #bh1 #gg1 #aaf1 #aed1 #aig1 #bja ,trouville ,deauville1 #dc ,truffles1 #afj ,turin1 #aei ,turkey1 #bbj ,turkeys1 ,norfolk1 #c ,tuscan dinner1 #agj ,uova di ,bufola1 #agd ,van der ,pyl's ,restaurant1 #aje ,veal1 #b ,veau a la ,casserole1 #d ,vegetable dishes1 #c ,venice1 #afd ,veron1 ,cafe1 #d ,very1 ,cafe1 #d ,vichy1 #gg ,vienna1 #aif wines1 #aif ,viennese restaurants1 #ca ,vieux ,calvados1 #de ,villa ,julia1 ,la1 at ,pont ,avin1 #dh ,villefranche1 #fa ,vitello ,uccelletto1 #afc ,voisin's ,cafe1 #f1 #i ,walnuts1 #agg ,warsaw1 #bbe ,waterzoei de ,poulet1 #ha ,wiesbaden1 #acc ,wine cellars1 #aih ,wines1 #ba1 #bb1 #be1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #cb1 #cd1 #ch1 #da1 #de1 #ej1 #fa1 #gj1 #hg1 #hh1 #aaf1 #aej1 #aee1 #aei1 #afj1 #afb1 #afd1 #agd1 #agg1 #ahj1 #aic1 #aif1 #aih1 #bja1 #bje ,amarena di ,siracusa1 #agg ,bordeaux1 #ada ,chianti1 #afi ,diamante1 #aha ,dragasani1 #bjh ,marsala1 #agg ,moscato di ,siracusa1 #agg ,moselle1 #abh ,rhine1 #abi1 #adi ,rioja1 #aha ,valdepenas1 #ahj ,wimille1 #cg ,woodcocks1 #hb1 #ajb feast1 #hb ,yachni1 #bbg ,yalandji ,dolmas1 #bbg ,yaourt1 #bbg ,zabajone1 #aeh1 #afe ,zaragoza1 #ahg ,zucchini ,ripieni1 #afj ,zum ,weissen ,roessl1 ,berlin1 #aej ,zuppa di ,vongole1 #agf ,inglese1 #agd ,datteri1 #afg ,peoci1 #afe ,pesce1 #agc ,,the ,,end ,printed by ,r4 ,r4 ,clark1 ,limited4 ,edinburgh4 ,transcriber's ,notes ,page #bj1 ,is is corrected to ,it is ,page #aej1 ,raeuberhotle corrected to ,raeuberhohle ,page #aej1 ,zunweissen corrected to ,zum ,weissen 7also in ,index7 ,page #aeh1 paste corrected to pasta1 another pasta dish ,in the ,index1 added reference to ,page #ac in the entry for ,perdreau et ,caille ,paillard4 ,some spellings and accents are used inconsistently throughout the text4 ,they have been left as in the original since they are potentially intentional4