,,beckford999999 ,transcribed from the #ahic edition by ,david ,price1 email ccx#jgdpglaf4org ,,recollections ,,of ,,the ,,late ,,william ,,beckford ,,of ,,fonthill1 ,,wilts and ,,lansdown1 ,,bath ,the ,manuscript of the following ,letters1 written by my ,father1 has been in my possession fifty years4 ,he intended to publish it at the time of ,mr4 ,beckford's death1 in #ahdd1 but delayed the execution of the work1 and sixteen years afterwards was himself called to enter on the higher life of the spiritual world4 ,mr4 ,beckford and my ,father were kindred spirits1 conversant with the same authors1 had visited the same countries1 and were both gifted with extraordinary memories4 ,mr4 ,beckford said that he had never met with a man possessed of such a memory as my ,father2 and many a time has my ,father told me that he never met a man who possessed such a memory as ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,if my ,father had published the ,reminiscences himself ,i think that much misconception in the public mind respecting the character of ,mr4 ,beckford would have been prevented4 ,for instance1 ,i remember1 when a child1 being warned that this great man was an infidel4 ,when he showed my ,father the sarcophagus in which his body was to be placed1 he remarked1 ,there shall ,i lie1 ,lansdown1 until the trump of ,god shall rouse me on the ,resurrection morn4 ,,charlotte ,,lansdown4 #h ,lower ,east ,hayes1 ,bath2 ,july1 #ahic4 ,,recollections ,,of ,,the ,,late ,,william ,,beckford4 ,bath1 ,august #ba1 #ahch4 ,,my ,,dear ,,charlotte1--,i have this day seen such an astonishing assemblage of works of art1 so numerous and of so surprisingly rare a description that ,i am literally what ,lord ,byron calls ,dazzled and drunk with beauty4 ,i feel so bewildered from beholding the rapid succession of some of the very finest productions of the great masters that the attempt to describe them seems an impossible task2 however1 ,i will make an effort4 ,the collection of which ,i speak is that of ,mr4 ,beckford1 at his house in ,lansdown-crescent4 ,besides all this ,i have this day been introduced to that extraordinary man1 the author of ,vathek and ,italy1 the builder of ,fonthill1 the contemporary of the mighty and departed dead1 the pupil of ,mozart2 in fact1 to the formidable and inaccessible ,vathek himself6 ,i have many times passed the house1 and longed to see its contents1 and often have ,i wondered how a building with so plain and unostentatious an exterior could suit the reception of the works it contains1 and the residence of so magnificent a personage4 ,i first called by appointment on his ingenious architect1 ,mr4 ,goodridge 7to whom ,i am indebted for this distinguished favour71 and he accompanied me to the house1 which we reached at half-past twelve o'clock4 ,we were shown upstairs1 passing many fine family pictures1 and were ushered into the neat library1 where ,mr4 ,beckford was waiting to receive us4 ,i confess ,i did at first feel somewhat embarrassed1 but a lovely spaniel ran playfully towards us1 licking our hands in the most affectionate and hospitable manner2 ,you are welcome was the silent language4 ,i assure you ,i judge much1 and often truly1 of the character of individuals from the deportment of their favourite dogs4 ,i often find them exactly indicative of their master's disposition4 ,when you are attacked by snarling1 waspish curs is it at all wonderful if you find them an echo of the proprietor8 ,but this beautiful animal reassured me1 and gave me instantly a favourable idea of its master4 ,my astonishment was great at the spaciousness of the room1 which had in length a magnificent and palatial effect1 nor did ,i immediately discover the cause of its apparent grandeur4 ,it opens into the gallery built over the arch connecting the two houses1 at the end of which an immense mirror reflects the two apartments4 ,the effect is most illusive1 nor should ,i have guessed the truth had ,i not seen the reflection of my own figure in the glass4 ,the library1 which is the whole length of the first house1 cannot be much less than fifty feet long4 ,it has on one side five lofty windows1 the gallery having three on the same side4 ,you have the light streaming through eight consecutive openings2 these openings1 with their crimson curtains1 doubled by the reflection1 produce a most charming perspective4 ,from the ceiling hangs a splendid ormolu chandelier1 the floor is covered with a ,persian carpet 7brought ,i believe from ,portugal71 so sumptuous that one is afraid to walk on it1 and a noble mosaic table of ,florentine marble1 bought in at an immense price at ,fonthill1 is in the centre of the room4 ,several rows of the rarest books cover the lower part of the walls1 and above them hang many fine portraits1 which ,mr4 ,beckford immediately1 without losing any time in compliments1 began to show us and describe4 ,first we were shown a portrait by de ,vos of ,grotius2 next to it one of ,rembrandt1 painted by himself4 ,you see1 said ,mr4 ,beckford1 that he is trying to assume an air of dignity not natural to him1 by throwing back his head1 but this attempt at the dignified is neutralized by the expression of the eyes1 which have rather too much of sly humour for the character which he wishes to give himself4 ,to praise individual pictures seems useless when everyone you meet has excellencies peculiar to itself2 in fact1 whatever our ideas of the great masters may be1 and we certainly do gain from prints and pictures a tolerable idea of their style and different beauties 7and ,i have myself seen the ,louvre and many celebrated pictures7 there is in ,mr4 ,beckford's chef d'oeuvres something still more lovely than our imagination1 than our expectation4 ,i speak not now of the ,st4 ,catherine1 ,the ,claud1 ,the ,titian1 c41 but all the pictures1 whether historical1 landscape1 or low life1 have this unique character of excellence4 ,you look at a picture4 ,you are sure it is by ,gaspar1 but you never saw one of ,poussin's that had such an exquisite tone of colour1 so fresh and with such free and brilliant execution4 ,but ,i digress4 ,i forgot that it was the library and its pictures ,i was attempting to describe4 ,well1 at the other end hangs a portrait of ,pope ,gregory1 by ,passerotti2 the expression of the face ,italian1 attitude like ,raphael4 ,over the door a portrait of ,cosmo de ,medici by ,bronzino ,allori1 fresh as if painted yesterday4 ,the works of that master1 ,i said1 are rare1 but a friend of mine1 ,mr4 ,day1 had a noble one at his rooms in ,piccadilly1 ,st4 ,john in the ,wilderness4 ,the conception of the figure and poetical expression of the face always seemed to me astonishingly fine4 ,pray1 ,sir1 do you know that picture8 ,perfectly1 it partakes of the sublime and is amazingly fine4 ,your portrait of ,cosmo has the expression of a resolute1 determined man1 and ,i think it conveys well the idea of the monstrous parent1 who could with his own hand destroy his only surviving son after discovering he had murdered his brother4 ,what a horrible piece of business6 ,the father of two sons1 one of whom murdered the other1 and that father is himself the executioner of the survivor4 ,it was dreadful certainly1 said ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,however1 we have the consolation of knowing that two broods of vipers were destroyed4 ,mr4 ,beckford next showed us a ,titian1 a portrait of the ,constable ,montmorency1 in armour richly chased with gold2 a fine picture1 but sadly deficient in intellectual expression4 ,and no wonder1 for as ,mr4 ,beckford observed1 ,he could neither read nor write1 but he was none the worse for that4 ,there is1 then1 before us1 ,i rejoined1 the portrait of the man of whom his master1 ,henri ,quatre1 said3 ',avec un ,counetable qui re sait pas ecrire1 et un ,chancelier qui ne sait pas le ,latin1 j'ai reussi dans toutes mes entreprises4' ,it is the very portrait for which he sat4 ,the face1 ,i said1 has no great pretensions to intellect1 but then ,titian knew nothing of the refined flattery so fashionable now-a-days that throws a halo of mind and expression over faces more stupid than ,montmorency's1 and whose possessors never performed the chivalrous deeds of the ,constable4 ,witness ,sir ,thomas ,lawrence's fine picture of ,sir ,wm4 ,curtis1 where the ,court painter has thrown a poetical expression over a personage that never in his life betrayed any predilection for anything but turtle soup and gormandizing4 ,mr4 ,beckford burst out laughing4 ,well1 said he1 here is a picture that will perhaps please you4 ,holbein has certainly not been guilty of the refined flattery you complain of here2 it is the portrait of ,bishop ,gardiner1 painted at the time he was in ,holland and in disgrace4 ,what think you of it8 ,it is admirably painted1 and has scarcely anything of his dry and hard manner1 the hands are done inimitably1 but the eyes are small1 and the expression cold-hearted and brutal4 ,it conveys to my mind the exact idea of the cold-blooded wretch1 who consigned so many of his innocent countrymen to the flames4 ,i did not express all ,i thought1 but ,i certainly wondered how the effigy of such a monster should have found an asylum in this palace of taste4 ,smithfield and its horrors rose vividly before me1 and ,i turned1 not without a shudder1 from this too faithful portrait to copies by ,phillips of some family pictures in the ,royal ,collection1 painted by permission expressly for ,mr4 ,beckford1 and looking more like originals than mere copies4 ,but the picture of pictures in this room is a ,velasquez1 an unknown head1 the expression beyond anything ,i have ever seen4 ,such light and shade1 such expressive eyes2 the very epitome of ,spanish character4 ,is it not amazingly like ,lord ,byron8 ,it certainly is very like him1 but much more handsome4 ,this room is devoted entirely to portraits4 ,mr4 ,beckford opened a door and we entered the ,duchess ,drawing ,room2 a truly ,royal room1 the colour of the curtains1 carpet1 and furniture being crimson1 scarlet1 and purple4 ,over the fireplace is a full length portrait of the ,duchess of ,hamilton by ,phillips1 painted in the rich and glowing style of that sweet colourist4 ,it represents a beautiful and truly dignified lady4 ,the sleeves of the dress are close and small1 as worn in #ahaj 7,quel bonheur6 d'etre jeune1 jolie1 et ,duchesse71 so truly becoming to a finely formed woman1 and so much superior to the present horrid fashion of disfiguring the shape by gigot and bishop's sleeves1 which seem to have been invented expressly to conceal what is indeed most truly beautiful1 a woman's arm4 ,we were next shown a glorious ,sir ,joshua1 a beautiful full length portrait of ,mrs4 ,peter ,beckford1 afterwards ,lady ,rivers1 and the ,nouronchar of ,vathek4 ,she is represented approaching an altar partially obscured by clouds of incense that she may sacrifice to ,hygeia1 and turning round looking at the spectator4 ,the background is quite ,titianesque2 it is composed of sky and the columns of the temple1 the light breaking on the pillars in that forcible manner you see on the stems of trees in some of ,titian's backgrounds4 ,the colouring of this picture is in fine preservation1 a delicate lilac scarf floats over the dress1 the figure is grace and elegance itself1 and the drawing perfect2 the general effect is brilliancy1 richness1 and astonishing softness4 ,sir ,joshua took the greatest pleasure and delight in painting that picture1 as it was left entirely to his own refined taste4 ,the lady was in ill-health at the time it was done1 and ,sir ,joshua most charmingly conceived the idea of a sacrifice to the ,goddess of ,health4 ,vain hope6 ,her disorder was fatal4 ,there is a portrait of ,mr4 ,beckford's mother painted by ,west1 with a view of ,fonthill in the background4 ,never was there a greater contrast in this and the last picture2 ,west certainly knew nothing of portrait painting4 ,the tout ensemble of the portrait in question is as dry and hard as if painted by a ,chinese novice4 ,there is also a portrait of the ,countess1 of ,effingham1 ,mr4 ,beckford's aunt4 ,on one side is the original portrait by ,reynolds of the author of ,vathek engraved as the frontispiece of the ,excursions to the ,monasteries4 ,the character of the original picture is much superior in expression to the print1 less stout1 eyes very intellectual2 in fact1 you are convinced it must be the portrait of a poet or of a poetical character4 ,the face is very handsome1 so is the print1 but that has nothing in it but what you meet with in a good looking young man of fashion4 ,this1 on the contrary1 has an expression of sensibility1 deeply tinged with melancholy1 which gives it great interest4 ,on the other side of ,lady ,rivers's portrait is the ,duke of ,hamilton when a boy4 ,a sweet child1 with the hair cut straight along the forehead1 as worn by children some fifty years ago1 and hanging luxuriantly down his neck ,on the same side of the room1 behind a bronze of the ,laocoon1 is a wonderful sketch by ,paolo ,veronese1 the drawing and composition in the grand style1 touched with great sweetness and juiciness4 ,two small upright ,bassans1 painted conjointly by both1 bearing their names2 the point of sight is immensely high4 ,we were then led down the north staircase4 ,fronting us was a portrait of ,mr4 ,beckford's father1 the ,alderman and celebrated ,lord ,mayor of ,london4 ,mr4 ,goodridge asked him if he knew a book1 just published1 denying the truth of his father's famous speech to ,george ,,iii4 ,he seemed astonished1 and stood still on the staircase4 ,not true6 ,what in the world will they find out next8 ,garrick was present when my father uttered it1 heard the whole speech1 repeated it word for word to me1 and what is more1 acted it in my father's manner4 ,that is the portrait of my great grandfather1 ,colonel ,peter ,beckford4 ,it was painted by a ,french artist1 who went to ,jamaica for the purpose1 at the time he was ,governor of the island4 ,it is a full length portrait1 large as life1 the ,colonel dressed in a scarlet coat embroidered richly with gold4 ,there is also a lovely portrait by ,barker of the present ,marquis of ,douglas1 ,mr4 ,beckford's grandson2 it was painted when ,lord ,douglas was twelve or thirteen years old4 ,there is also a charming picture by ,reynolds1 two beautiful little girls1 full length and large as life1 they are the present ,duchess of ,hamilton and her sister1 ,mrs ,general ,ord4 ,we now entered the lovely dining room1 which in point of brilliancy and cheerfulness has more the character of a drawing than of a dining room4 ,opposite the window is an upright grand pianoforte4 ,it is the largest ever made1 with the exception of its companion made at the same time1 and its richness and power of sound are very great4 ,over the fire is what is seldom seen in a dining room1 a large looking glass4 ,the paintings in this room have been valued at upwards of #bj1jjj pounds4 ,on the right as you enter are five pictures that once adorned the ,aldsbrandini ,palace1 namely1 the ,st4 ,catherine by ,raphael1 a ,claude1 a ,garofalo1 two by ,ferrara1 and several smaller ones4 ,but how shall ,i attempt to describe to you the ,st4 ,catherine8 ,this lovely picture combines all the refined elegance of the ,venus de ,medici1 in form1 contour1 and flowing lines1 with an astonishing delicacy of colour1 and masterly yet softened execution4 ,the eyes are turned upwards with an expression of heavenly resignation1 the neck1 flesh and life itself1 the hands1 arms1 and shoulders so sweetly rounded1 while the figure melts into the background with the softness of ,corregio4 ,and fills ,the air around with beauty1 we inhale ,the ambrosial aspect1 which beheld instils ,part of its immortality2 the veil ,of heaven is half withdrawn1 within the pale ,we stand1 and in that form and face behold ,what mind can make1 when ,nature's self would fail4 ,i can only convey to you a very slight idea of the impression produced by the contemplation of this admirable painting4 ,such grace and sweetness1 such softness and roundness in the limbs4 ,she seems the most beautiful creature that ever trod this earthly planet2 in short it is no earthly beauty that we gaze upon1 but the very beau ideal of ,italian loveliness4 ,eve of the land which still is ,paradise4 ,italian beauty6 didst thou not inspire ,raphael8 ,how different1 said ,mr4 ,beckford1 is that lovely creature from ,mr4 ,etty's beauties4 ,they are for the most part of a meretricious character1 would do well enough for a mistress2 but there1 pointing to the ,st4 ,catherine1 there are personified the modesty and purity a man would wish to have in a wife1 and yet ,frenchmen find fault with it4 ,c'est un assez joli tableau1 say they1 mais la tete manque1 de l'expression1 si elle avait plus d'esprit1 plus de vivacite6 ,mais ,raphael1 il n'avait jamais passe les ,alpes4 ,we burst out laughing1 and ,i added1 ,le pauvre ,raphael quel dommage1 de ne savoir rien du grand4 ,monarque6 ni de la grande nation4 ,yet1 ,i continued1 there is a painter1 ,stotherd1 who has come nearer to the great ,italian1 in the grace and elegance of his women and children1 than perhaps any other1 and merits well the proud appellation of the ,english ,raphael4 ,what a shame that he never met with encouragement4 ,but ,i understood that he was tolerably successful4 ,he painted many things for me at ,fonthill4 ,you are surely mistaken4 ,by no means1 ,i replied4 ,latterly he seldom sold a picture1 and supported himself on the paltry income of #bjj pounds a year1 raised by making little designs for booksellers4 ,yet what a noble painting is ,chaucer's pilgrimage to ,canterbury4 ,it is indeed1 said ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,but1 sir1 there is another painter1 ,howard1 whose conceptions are most poetical4 ,do you remember his painting at ,somerset ,house in #ahbd1 representing the solar system1 from ,milton's noble lines-- ,hither as to their fountain1 other stars ,repairing1 in their golden urns draw light8 ,i remember it perfectly2 'twas a most beautiful picture4 ,milton's original idea1 that of the planets drawing light from their eternal source1 as water from a fountain1 is certainly a glorious1 a golden one2 but who beside ,howard could have so tangibly1 so poetically developed the poet's idea in colour4 ,the personifying the planets according to their names1 as ,venus1 ,mercury1 and so forth1 was charming1 and the splendour of the nearer figures1 overwhelmed as it were with excess of light1 and the gloom and darkness of the distant1 were admirably managed4 ,what a wonderful picture6 ,he never painted a finer4 ,mr4 ,beckford then pointed out his ,claude4 ,it is a cool picture1 the colouring grey and greenish1 the time of day1 early morning just before sunrise3 but words fail to express its beauties4 ,there is a something in it1 a je ne sais quoi4 ,such clearness in the colouring2 the trees are all green1 but so tenderly green2 the sky and distance of such an exquisite tone that you are at once in imagination transported to those southern climes and cloudless skies that inspired ,claude ,lorraine4 ,i can give no possible idea in writing of the tone of colour in this picture1 except by comparing it to the semi-transparency of ,mosaic1 such are the clearness of the tints and pearliness of the sky and distance4 ,as to chiaro-oscure1 it is breadth and simplicity itself4 ,nothing but the purest ultramarine could ever produce such a green as that which colours the trees4 ,on the same side of the room are two small ,vander ,meulens1 landscapes4 ,they are very highly finished1 and the colouring is delicious2 the trees are grouped with all the grandeur of ,claude or ,poussin4 ,above are two of the finest ,vernets2 they are both sea pieces4 ,the colouring has a depth and richness ,i never before saw in anything attributed to him4 ,in the ,louvre are his most famous pictures1 and what ,i now say is the result of calm and mature reflection4 ,i had the ,louvre pictures constantly before my eyes for three months4 ,they are very large1 and certainly have great merit2 but had ,i my choice ,i would prefer ,mr4 ,beckford's to any of the set4 ,west's original sketch for his great picture of ,king ,lear1 painted for ,boydell's ,shakspeare ,gallery--,blow1 blow1 thou winter wind4 ,a most wonderful performance4 ,the expression of face of the poor mad king is astonishing2 the colouring rich and mellow--nothing of ,west's usually hard outline4 ,the whole picture is full of energy and fire1 and seems to have been struck off with the greatest ease and rapidity4 ,do observe the face of ,edgar1 said ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,under his assumed madness you trace a sentiment of respect and anxiety for the monarch2 he could not forget that it was his sovereign4 ,i have seen1 ,i said1 most of ,west's great pictures1 but there is more genius in that sketch than in anything ,i ever saw of his4 ,i think he took too much pains with his sketches4 ,the consequence was that the original spirit evaporated long before the completion of the great tame painting1 where his men and women too often look like wooden lay figures covered with drapery4 ,sir1 did you ever see his sketch of ,death on the ,pale ,horse8 ,the large picture is certainly very fine1 but ,i have heard the best judges say that the original sketch is one of the finest things in existence4 ,the ,president himself considered it his best and refused #ajj pounds1 offered for it by the ,prince ,regent2 yet afterwards1 being distressed for money1 he parted with it1 ,i believe1 to ,mr4 ,thompson1 the artist1 for #ej pounds4 ,is it possible8 ,i wish ,i had known that he wanted to dispose of it4 ,i should have liked it beyond anything4 ,it was most wonderful4 ,above the picture of ,king ,lear hangs a noble picture by ,titian1 the composition of which reminded me much of ,raphael4 ,the ,virgin's face is extremely beautiful1 but it is the sort of beauty we sometimes meet with1 that we sometimes may have seen4 ,the ,st4 ,catherine is of a more elevated style of beauty1 more intellectual2 in short1 it possesses a combination of charms that has never yet fallen to the lot of any mortal4 ,the infant is extremely fine4 ,on this side is also a portrait of himself exquisitely coloured and finished4 ,near these paintings is a ,canaletti1 not a real view1 but an assemblage of various fine buildings2 in fact1 a sort of union of ,rome and ,venice4 ,in the centre is the ,mole of ,hadrian1 round which he has amused himself by putting an elegant colonnade2 on the right hand is a bridge4 ,the colouring is clear1 the shadows rich1 and the water softly painted and extremely transparent4 ,this is the most beautiful ,canaletti ,i ever saw4 ,i observed that the generality of his pictures had a hardness1 dryness1 and blackness that we saw nothing of here4 ,you are quite right1 he said1 and the reason is that very few of those generally attributed to him are really genuine1 but of mine there can be no doubt1 as this painting and several others that ,i have were got directly from the artist himself by means of the ,english ,consul at ,venice2 but not a quarter of the pictures that one sees and that are called his were ever painted by ,canaletti4 ,there were several very fine pictures by this master destroyed in the lifetime of ,alderman ,beckford at the fire which consumed the old mansion at ,fonthill nearly a hundred years ago4 ,this ,canaletti partakes of the same character of high excellence that ,mr4 ,beckford's other pictures possess2 in fact1 as with so many of his pictures1 you see the hand of the master1 whose common works you know1 but in this house you find paintings still finer1 which give you more elevated and correct ideas of the style and manner of the genuine productions of the great masters4 ,there really seems some charm1 some magic in the walls1 so great is the similarity of colouring in these chefs d'oeuvres1 the clear1 the subdued1 the pearly tints1 a variety of delicious colour1 and none of the dirty hues you see in mediocre old paintings4 ,over the sofa is a constellation of beauties which we merely glanced at as we passed1 but which ,i hope another day to examine4 ,they are some of the rarest specimens by ,g4 ,poussin1 ,wouvermans1 ,berghem1 ,van ,huysum1 ,polemberg1 and others4 ,on a small table was placed an elegantly cut caraffe of carnations of every variety of colour that you can possibly imagine4 ,there is nothing in which ,mr4 ,beckford is more choice than in his bouquets4 ,at every season the rarest living flowers adorn the house4 ,next to the dining room is a small salon1 which we now entered4 ,here is a noble drawing by ,turner of the ,abbey1 according to a plan proposed1 but never carried out4 ,the tower is conical1 and would have been even higher than the one that was completed4 ,i have seen1 ,i said1 a fine drawing of ,fonthill by ,turner1 originally in your possession1 but now belonging to ,mr4 ,allnutt1 of ,clapham4 ,it is prodigiously fine4 ,the scenery there must be magnificent4 ,the hills and beautiful lake in the drawing give one an idea of ,cumberland4 ,it is a very fine drawing1 but rather too poetical1 too ideal1 even for ,fonthill4 ,the scenery there is certainly beautiful1 but ,turner took such liberties with it that he entirely destroyed the portraiture1 the locality of the spot4 ,that was the reason ,i parted with it4 ,there were originally six drawings of the ,abbey2 three were disposed of at the sale1 and ,i still have the remaining ones4 ,are they going to rebuild the tower1 sir8 for when ,i was last in ,london1 ,papworth1 the architect1 was gone down to ,fonthill to do something there4 ,impossible1 he said1 unless it were to be made a national affair1 which indeed is not very likely4 ,it would cost at least #ajj1jjj pounds to restore it4 ,but what can ,papworth have done there8 ,it must ,i should think be something to the pavilion4 ,i assure you ,i had no idea of parting with ,fonthill till ,farquhar made me the offer4 ,i wished to purge it1 to get rid of a great many things ,i did not want1 but as to the building itself ,i had no more notion of selling it than you have 7turning to his architect7 of parting with anything1 with--with the clothes you have on4 ,on the chimney piece1 protected by a glass1 is a precious ,japan vase4 ,we examined it for some time under its envelope4 ,it seemed to me 7for ,i know nothing of ,japan work7 a bronze vessel1 richly and most elaborately chased1 and ,i could not help joining in the praises due to its exquisite finish4 ,mr4 ,beckford took off the glass1 and desired me to take it to the window4 ,i am really afraid to touch it1 said ,i1 but he forced it into my hands4 ,i prepared them to receive a massive and 7as it seemed to me7 very weighty vessel1 when lo it proved as light as a feather4 ,we were afterwards shown another ,japan vase1 the exterior of which exactly resembled the ,pompeian designs1 elegant scrolls1 delicate tracery of blue1 red1 green1 c4 ,these colours strongly opposed as in the remains of paintings at ,pompeii4 ,here are some other precious little pictures1 a small ,gerard ,dow1 a ,watteau1 a ,moucheron1 and a ,polemberg4 ,he merely noticed them1 and then led us into the next room4 ,a noble library4 ,it is an elegant and charming apartment1 very chastely ornamented4 ,here are no pictures2 it is devoted entirely to books and ponderous folios of the most rare and precious engravings4 ,the sides of the library are adorned by ,scagliola pilasters and arched recesses1 which contain the books4 ,the interstices between the arches and the ceiling are painted in imitation of marble1 so extremely like that though they touch the ,scagliola it is next to impossible to distinguish any difference4 ,the ceiling is belted across and enriched with bands of ,grecian tracery in relief1 delicately painted and slightly touched with gold4 ,on the walls are some gilded ornaments1 enough to give to the whole richness of effect without heaviness4 ,between the windows is what ,i suppose may be termed a table1 composed of an enormous slab of the rarest marble1 supported by elegantly cast bronze legs4 ,over this a small cabinet 7manufactured in ,bath from drawings by ,mr4 ,goodridge7 full of extremely small books2 it is carved in oak in the most elaborate manner4 ,the fireplace1 of ,devonshire marble1 is perfect in design and in its adaptation to the rest of the room2 in fact1 everything in this lovely chamber is in unison1 everything soft1 quiet1 and subdued4 ,new wonders awaited me4 ,next to the library is a sort of vestibule leading to a staircase1 which from its mysterious and crimson light1 rich draperies1 and latticed doors seemed to be the sanctum sanctorum of a heathen temple4 ,to the left a long passage1 whose termination not being seen allowed the imagination full play1 led for aught ,i know to the ,fortress of ,akerman1 to the ,montagne du ,caf or to the ,halls of ,argenti4 ,ou sout peintes toutes les createures raissonables1 et les animaux qui ont habite la terre4 ,to the right two latticed doors1 reminding you of ,grand ,cairo or ,persepolis1 ingeniously conceal the commonplace entrance from the ,crescent4 ,the singular and harmonious light of this mysterious vestibule is produced by crimson silk strained over the fanlight of the outer door4 ,this place1 ,i observed1 puts one in mind of the ,hall of ,eblis4 ,you are quite right1 he observed1 this is unquestionably the ,hall of ,eblis4 ,those latticed doors1 ,i continued1 seem to lead to the small apartment where the three princes1 ,alasi1 ,barkiarokh1 and ,kalilah1 related to ,vathek and ,nouronchar their adventures4 ,he seemed amused at my observations1 and said1 ,then you have read ',vathek4' ,how do you like it8 ,vastly4 ,i read it in ,english many years ago1 but never in ,french4 ,then read it in ,french1 said ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,the ,french edition is much finer than the ,english4 ,we mounted the staircase4 ,above you in open niches are ,etruscan vases4 ,the ceiling is arched and has belts at intervals4 ,i wished to exclude the draughts1 said ,mr4 ,beckford1 and to do away with the cold and uncomfortable appearance you generally have in staircases4 ,the effect of the whole is so novel that you lose all idea of stairs1 and seem merely going from one room to another4 ,as you stand on the landing the vaulted and belted ceiling behind you has the appearance of a row of arches in perspective4 ,the same solemn and mysterious gloom pervades the staircase4 ,the architect has frequently entreated to be allowed to introduce a little more light1 but in vain4 ,the author of ,vathek will not consent to the least alteration of the present mystical effect1 and he is quite right4 ,this warm and indefinite light produces not only the effect of air1 but also of space1 and makes the passage before noticed1 seen through the latticed doors1 apparently of lines of real dimensions4 ,mr4 ,beckford drew aside a curtain4 ,we entered the smaller of two lovely drawing rooms lately fitted up4 ,before us1 over the mantelpiece1 was suspended a magnificent full length portrait by ,gaspar de ,crayer of ,philip ,,ii4 of ,spain4 ,just then my head was too full of the ,hall of ,eblis1 of ,vathek and its associations1 for mere ordinary admiration of even one of the finest portraits painted1 and on ,mr4 ,beckford pointing out the whitefaced monarch ,i almost involuntarily ejaculated ,pale slave of ,eblis4 ,he burst out laughing4 ,eh6 eh6 what8 ,his face is pale indeed1 but he was very proud of his complexion4 ,this is a very fine group4 ,philip is represented dressed in a suit of black armour1 elaborately chased in gold1 standing on a throne covered with a crimson carpet4 ,near him is his dwarf1 dressed in black1 holding the helmet1 adorned with a magnificent plume of feathers1 and turning towards his master 7the fountain of honour7 a most expressive and intelligent face4 ,that dwarf1 said ,mr4 ,beckford1 was a man of great ability and exercised over his master a vast influence4 ,lower down you discover the head of a ,mexican page1 holding a horse1 whose head1 as well as that of the page1 is all that is visible1 their bodies being concealed by the steps of the throne4 ,this is a noble picture2 but in my eyes the extreme plainness of the steps of the throne and the unornamented war boots of the king have a bare and naked appearance4 ,they contrast rather too violently with the whole of the upper part of the picture4 ,over the steps are painted in ,roman letters ,rx4 ,ps4 #ds4 7,rex ,philippus quartos74 ,many who have hardly heard the painter's name will of course not admire it1 being done neither by ,titian nor ,vandyke2 but ,mr4 ,beckford's taste is peculiar4 ,he prefers a genuine picture by an inferior painter to those attributed to the more celebrated masters1 but where originality is ambiguous1 or at least if not ambiguous where picture cleaner1 or scavengers1 as he calls them1 have been at work4 ,in this room1 suspended from the ceiling by a silken cord1 is the silver gilt lamp that hung in the oratory at ,fonthill4 ,its shape and proportion are very elegant1 and no wonder2 it was designed by the author of ,italy himself4 ,how great was my astonishment some time after1 on visiting ,fonthill1 at perceiving1 suspended from the cul de lamp1 the very crimson cord that once supported this precious vessel6 ,the lamp had been hastily cut down1 and the height of the remains of the cord from the floor was probably the reason of its preservation4 ,mr4 ,beckford next pointed out a charming sketch by ,rubens1 clear and pearly beyond conception4 ,it is ,st4 ,george and the ,dragon1 the dragon hero and his horse in the air1 and the dragon must certainly have been an ,african lion4 ,mr4 ,beckford called the beast1 or reptile1 a mumpsimus 7sic74 ,do look at the ,pontimeitos in the beautiful sketch1 said he1 there is a bit from his pencil certainly his own4 ,don't imagine that those great pictures that bear his name are all his pictures4 ,he was too much of a gentleman for such drudgery1 and the greatest part of such pictures 7the ,luxembourg for instance7 are the works of his pupils from his original designs certainly2 they were afterwards retouched by him1 and people are silly enough to believe they are all his work4 ,but mark well the difference in execution between those great gallery pictures and such a gem as this4 ,mr4 ,beckford then showed me a ,ripon by ,polemberg1 a lovely classic landscape1 with smooth sky1 pearly distance1 and picturesque plains2 the ,holy ,family in the foreground4 ,do take notice of the ,st4 ,joseph in this charming picture1 he said4 ,the painters too often pourtray him as little better than a vagabond ,jew or an old beggar4 ,polemberg had too much good taste for such caricaturing1 and you see he has made him here look like a decayed gentleman4 ,mr4 ,beckford drew aside another curtain1 and we entered the front drawing room1 of larger dimensions1 but fitted up in a similar style4 ,the first thing that caught my eye was the magnificent effect produced by a scarlet drapery1 whose ample folds covered the whole side of the room opposite the three windows from the ceiling to the floor4 ,mr4 ,beckford's observation on his first view of ,mad4 d' ,aranda's boudoir instantly recurred to my mind4 ,these are his very words3 ,i wonder architects and fitters-up of apartments do not avail themselves more frequently of the powers of drapery4 ,nothing produces so grand and at the same time so comfortable an effect4 ,the moment ,i have an opportunity ,i will set about constructing a tabernacle larger than the one ,i arranged at ,ramalhad1 and indulge myself in every variety of plait and fold that can be possibly invented4 ,i never was so convinced1 ,i said1 of the truth of your observations as at the present moment4 ,what a charming and comfortable effect does that splendid drapery produce6 ,i am very fond of drapery1 he replied1 but that is nothing to what ,i had at ,fonthill in the great octagon4 ,there were purple curtains fifty feet long4 ,here was a cabinet of oak1 made in ,bath1 in form most classical and appropriate4 ,on one side stood two massive and richly chased silver gilt candlesticks that formerly were used in the ,moorish ,palace of the ,alhambra4 ,then you have visited ,granada8 ,i inquired4 ,more than once4 ,what do you think of the ,alhambra8 ,it is vastly curious certainly1 but many things there are in wretched taste1 and to say truth ,i don't much admire ,moorish taste4 ,mr4 ,beckford next pointed out a head in marble brought from ,mexico by ,cortez1 which was for centuries in the possession of the ,duke of ,alba's family1 and was given to the present proprietor by the ,duchess4 ,her fate was very tragical1 he observed4 ,in a small cupboard with glass in front is a little ivory reliquior1 four or five hundred years old4 ,it was given to ,mr4 ,beckford by the late ,mr4 ,hope4 ,it is in the shape of a small chapel2 on opening the doors1 the fastenings of which were two small dogs or monkeys1 you found in a recess the ,virgin and ,child1 surrounded by various effigies1 all carved in the most astonishingly minute manner4 ,the mention of ,mr4 ,hope's name produced an observation about ,anastasius1 of which ,mr4 ,beckford affirmed he was confident ,mr4 ,hope had written very little2 he was1 he positively asserted1 assisted by ,spence4 ,my companion here observed1 ,had ,mr4 ,beckford heard of the recent discoveries made of the ruins of ,carthage8 ,of ,carthage8 he said1 it must be ,new ,carthage4 ,it cannot be the old town1 that is impossible4 ,if it were1 ,i would start to-morrow to see it4 ,i should think myself on the road to ,babylon half-way4 ,babylon must have been a glorious place1 observed my companion1 if we can place any reliance on ,mr4 ,martin's long line of distances about that famous city4 ,oh1 ,martin4 ,martin is very clever1 but a friend of mine1 ,danby1 in my opinion far surpasses him4 ,i cannot agree with ,mr4 ,beckford in this4 ,martin was undoubtedly the inventor of the singular style of painting in question1 and ,i do not believe that ,danby ever produced anything equal to some of the illustrations of ,paradise ,lost1 in particular ,the ,fall of the ,apostate ,angels1 which is as fine a conception as any painter1 ancient or modern1 ever produced4 ,mr4 ,beckford then1 taking off a glass cover1 showed us what is1 ,i should imagine1 one of the greatest curiosities in existence1 a vase about ten inches high1 composed of one entire block of chalcedonian onyx4 ,it is of ,greek workmanship1 most probably about the time of ,alexander the ,great4 ,the stone is full of veins1 as usual with onyxes4 ,do observe1 said he1 these satyrs' heads4 ,imagine the number of diamonds it must have taken to make any impression on such a hard substance4 ,rubens made a drawing of it1 for it was pawned in his time for a large sum4 ,i possess an engraving from his drawing1 and opening a portfolio he immediately presented it to my wondering eyes4 ,over the fireplace is a magnificent picture by ,roberts1 representing the tombs of ,ferdinand and ,isabella in the ,alhambra4 ,what ,i had always imagined a small chapel is1 ,i find1 really of gigantic proportions1 and looks like a ,cathedral in solemn grandeur and softness2 the two sarcophagi are of white marble4 ,the light streams through enormous painted windows1 and at the extremity of the edifice is an altar surrounded by figures in different attitudes4 ,i should never have dreamt1 from what ,washington ,irving says of the chapel of ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 that it was such a plan as this4 ,oh1 ,washington ,irving1 he replied1 is very poor in his descriptions2 he does not do justice to ,spain4 ,i wished he had spoken with a little more enthusiasm of a favourite author1 but ,i imagine that the author of the ,sketch ,book is scarcely aristocratic enough for ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,on the right hand of the fireplace is a very large landscape by ,lee1 which ,mr4 ,beckford eulogised warmly4 ,that silvery stream1 he observed1 winding amongst those gentle undulating hills must be intended to represent ,berkshire1 or he pronounced it ,barkshire4 ,with all due deference to the taste of the author of ,vathek1 and his admiration of this picture1 which he compared to a ,wouvermann1 it is in my eyes a very uninteresting scene1 though certainly strictly natural4 ,i don't in general like ,lee's pictures1 he said1 but that is an exception4 ,in the corresponding recess is a fine sea piece by ,chambers4 ,on the opposite side of the room are rows of the most valuable books1 which almost reach the ceiling4 ,i hinted that ,i was really afraid we were trespassing on his leisure1 as our visit was lengthened out most prodigiously4 ,not at all1 he replied1 ,i am delighted to see you4 ,it is a pleasure to show these things to those who really appreciate them1 for ,i assure you that ,i find very few who do4 ,we now returned through the apartments4 ,he accompanied us as far as the dining room door1 when he inquired if ,i had seen the ,tower8 ,on my answering in the negative he said1 ,then you must come up again4 ,he shook hands with my friend1 and bowing politely to me was retiring1 when stepping back he held out his hand in the kindest manner1 repeating the words ,come up again4 ,we found we had spent three hours in his company4 ,we paused an instant before leaving the dining room to admire a lovely bit of perspective4 ,it is a line of open doors1 exactly opposite each other 7never seen but in large houses71 piercing and uniting the three lower rooms4 ,the effect is vastly increased by a mirror placed in the lobby leading to the second staircase1 which mirror terminated the view4 ,l'une perspective bien menagee charmait la vue2 ici1 la magic de l'optique la trompoit agreablement4 ,en un mot1 le plus curieux des hommes n'avait rien omis dans ce palais de ce qui pouvait contenter la curiosite de ceux qui le visitait4 ,you may imagine ,i did not forget ,mr4 ,beckford's invitation1 nor cease pestering my friend till he at length fixed a day for accompanying me again to ,lansdown4 ,my curiosity to see the ,tower was excited4 ,i longed to behold that extraordinary structure1 but still more to see again the wonderful individual to whom it belonged4 ,we proceeded in the first place to the house1 and ,i had an opportunity of examining the pictures and curiosities in the ante-room4 ,here are two cabinets1 containing curious china1 and small golden vessels4 ,most of the china was1 ,i believe1 painted at ,sevres expressly for ,mr4 ,beckford1 as the ornaments on several pieces indicate1 being formed of his arms1 so arranged as to produce a rich and beautiful effect without the slightest formality4 ,i counted in one cabinet ten vessels of gold1 in the other five3 these were small teapots1 caddies1 cups1 saucers1 plates4 ,i am told that they are used occasionally at tea-time4 ,over the door is a magnificent drawing of the ,abbey1 by ,turner1 taken ,i should imagine at a distance of two miles4 ,the appearance of the building with its lofty tower is grand and imposing4 ,the foreground seems to have been an old quarry4 ,the great lake glitters in the middle distance1 from the opposite banks of which the ground gradually rises1 and the eminence is crowned by the stately structure4 ,here are also a fine interior by ,van ,ostade from ,fonthill1 representing a noble picture gallery2 a drawing of the interior of ,st4 ,paul's2 one by ,rubens1 representing ,christ and the two disciples at ,emmaus2 a fine ,swaneveldt2 a glorious ,weeninx1 game and fruit2 with a lovely bit by ,lance1 and many smaller pictures4 ,i was informed that ,mr4 ,beckford intended meeting us at the ,tower1 and that a servant was in readiness to conduct us thither by the walk through the grounds4 ,we therefore issued by a private door1 and presently entered the spacious kitchen garden1 containing1 ,i believe1 seven or eight acres4 ,a broad gravel walk1 bordered by lovely flowers and fruit trees1 leads to a magnificent terrace1 which bounds the northern side of this beautiful enclosure1 the view from which is enchanting4 ,this noble terrace is screened from the north by a luxuriant shrubbery1 from which arises an archway of massive proportions1 erected chiefly to shut out the view of an unpicturesque object4 ,the tout ensemble reminds one of ,florence4 ,you pass this gigantic portal1 and ascend the hill by a winding pathway through the fields1 the grass being always kept clipped and short4 ,at the distance of half a mile from the house we crossed a lane1 and our guide unlocking a gate entered the grounds at the brow of the hill4 ,we again ascended1 till we reached a broader way between two flourishing plantations1 branching off to the left1 and leading by a gently winding walk to a rustic sort of bungalow1 which was discovered about a quarter of a mile off4 ,you must walk along here1 said my friend1 and behold the prospect before we mount higher1 for you will find the view repay you4 ,it did indeed repay us3 the grassy pathway extends along the side of the southern brow of ,lansdown1 and the view from this spot is unrivalled4 ,the whole valley of the ,doon stretches beneath you4 ,looking towards the east you discover in extreme distance the ,marlborough ,downs2 then somewhat nearer ,kingsdown1 ,bathford1 the hills above ,warleigh1 with ,hampton cliffs and the neighbouring woods1 where ,gainsborough1 ,wilson1 and ,barker studied ,nature so well1 and where is shown the flat rock called ,gainsborough's table1 on which the first of this picturesque triumvirate so often ate his rustic meal4 ,to the south ,bladud's splendid city1 with its towers and stately buildings1 backed by the long line of ,wiltshire hills1 and ,alfred's ,tower is faintly traced in the clear1 grey haze4 ,the little conical hill of ,englishcombe1 where the unfortunate ,duke of ,monmouth drew up his army during his rash and fatal enterprise1 awoke a thousand recollections1 whilst the lovely river flashed occasionally in the noontide sun4 ,to the west are seen ,newton ,park1 the ,mendip ,hills1 ,dundry ,tower1 and the ,welsh hills1 whilst the hazy atmosphere marked the position of another great city1 ,bristol4 ,at the extreme western point1 too1 are seen the waters of the ,bristol ,channel1 glittering under the glowing rays of the setting sun1 and shining like a vast plateau of burnished gold4 ,after feasting our eyes on this lovely panorama and tracing out well known places1 at one moment lost in obscurity from the shadow of a passing cloud and the next moment appearing in the full blaze of sunshine1 we retraced our steps towards the path to the ,tower4 ,we again ascended the hill1 and soon reached the sort of tableland on the top1 which seems to me to have been once an immense quarry1 and no doubt furnished stone in vast quantities for the building of the splendid city at the foot of the eminence4 ,the remains of these quarries are most picturesque4 ,at a little distance they seem to present the wrecks of stately buildings1 with rows of broken arches1 and vividly recall the idea of ,roman ruins4 ,i afterwards mentioned my impressions on seeing them to ,mr4 ,beckford1 who replied1 ,they do indeed put one in mind of the ,campagna of ,rome1 and are vastly like the ruins of the ,baths of ,caracalla4 ,we were now on the brow of the hill1 and soon felt the influence of the genial breezes from the ,bristol ,channel4 ,we quitted the open ,down1 and passing under a low doorway entered a lovely shrubbery4 ,the walk 7composed of small fossils7 winds between graceful trees1 and is skirted by odoriferous flowers1 which we are astonished to find growing in such luxuriance at an elevation of nearly a thousand feet above the vale below4 ,in many places the trees meet1 and form a green arcade over your head1 whilst patches of mignonette1 giant plants of heliotrope1 and clusters of geranium perfume the air4 ,we next enter a beautiful kitchen garden1 and are presented with a broad and noble straight walk fully ten feet in width and nearly four hundred feet long1 between beds of flowers1 and on either side beyond fruit trees and vegetables4 ,the garden terminates with a picturesque building1 pierced by a lofty archway1 through which the walk passes4 ,this garden is about eighty feet wide and about twelve feet below the level of the ,down1 being formed in an old quarry1 besides which a lofty wall on either side shelters it4 ,one cannot describe one's sensations of comfort at finding so delicious a spot in so unexpected a place4 ,i said to the gardener1 ,i understood ,mr4 ,beckford had planted everything on the ,down1 but you surely found those apple trees here4 ,they are fifty years old4 ,we found nothing here but an old quarry and a few nettles4 ,those apple trees were great trees when we moved them1 and moving them stopped their bearing4 ,they blossom in the spring and look pretty1 and that is all master cares about4 ,we left this charming enclosure1 passing under the archway before mentioned4 ,and here ,i must pause a moment and admire the happy idea of placing this pretty building at the end of this cultivated spot4 ,it closes the kitchen garden1 and as its front is similar on either side1 it harmonizes with the regular garden we have left1 as well as with the wilder spot which we next approach4 ,this building forms a complete termination to one of that succession of lovely scenes with which we are presented on our walk to the ,tower4 ,each scene is totally distinct in character from the others1 and yet with matchless taste they are united by some harmonious link1 as in the present case4 ,having then passed through the archway of this building1 we observed before us a grotto1 into which we entered4 ,on the right is a pond of gold and silver fish1 which are fed every morning by the hands of the gifted possessor of this charming place4 ,on the opposite side thirty or forty birds assemble at the same time to hail the appearance of ,st4 ,anthony's devotee1 and chirrup a song of gratitude for their morning meal4 ,the grotto is formed under a road1 and is so ingeniously contrived that hundreds have walked over it without ever dreaming of the subterranean passage beneath4 ,the grotto-like arch winds underground for perhaps sixty or seventy feet4 ,when coming to its termination we are presented with a flight of rustic steps1 which leads us again directly on to the ,down4 ,looking back you cannot but admire the natural appearance of this work of art4 ,the ground over the grotto is covered with tangled shrubs and brambles4 ,there is nothing formed1 nothing apparently artificial1 and a young ash springs as if accidentally from between the stones4 ,we pursued our way to the ,tower by a path of a quarter of a mile on the ,down1 along a walk parallel to the wall of the public road1 gently curved to take off the appearance of formality1 yet so slightly that you can go on in a straight line4 ,on our right hand venerable bushes of lavender1 great plants of rosemary1 and large rose trees perfume the air1 all growing as if indigenous to the smooth turf4 ,in one place clusters of rare and deeply crimsoned snapdragons1 in another patches of aromatic thyme and wild strawberries keep up the charm of the place4 ,as we draw nearer to the ,tower the ground is laid out in a wilder and more picturesque manner1 the walks are more serpentine4 ,we turned a corner1 and ,mr4 ,beckford stood before us1 attended by an aged servant1 whose hairs have whitened in his employment1 and whose skill has laid out these grounds in this beautiful manner4 ,mr4 ,beckford welcomed me in the kindest way1 and immediately began pointing out the various curious plants and shrubs4 ,how on this happy spot specimens of the productions of every country in the world unite6 ,shrubs and trees1 whose natural climates are as opposite as the ,antipodes1 here flourish in the most astonishing manner4 ,we were shown a rose tree brought from ,pekin and a fir tree brought from the highest part of the ,himalaya ,mountains2 many have been brought to this country1 but ,mr4 ,beckford's is the only one that has survived4 ,here are pine trees of every species and variety--a tree that once vegetated at ,larissa1 in ,greece1 ,italian pines1 ,siberian pines1 ,scotch firs1 a lovely specimen of ,irish yew1 and other trees which it is impossible to describe4 ,my astonishment was great at witnessing the size of the trees1 and ,i could scarcely believe my ears when told that the whole of this wood had been raised on the bare ,down within the last thirteen years4 ,the ground is broken and diversified in the most agreeable manner3 here a flight of easy and water worn steps leads to an eminence1 whence you have a view of the building and an old ruin overgrown with shrubs1 which looks as if it had seen five hundred summers1 but in reality no older than the rest of this creation4 ,on ascending the easy though ruined steps of this building1 passing under an archway1 the view of the ,tower burst upon us1 and a long1 straight walk led us directly to the entrance4 ,from this point the view is most imposing4 ,on your right is a continuation of the shrubberies ,i spoke of1 at the end of which is a lovely pine1 most beautiful in form and colour1 which by hiding some of the lower buildings thus makes a picture of the whole4 ,the effect of the building is grand and stately beyond description4 ,the long line of flat distance and the flatness of the ,down here come in contact with the perpendicular lines of the ,tower and lower buildings1 producing that strikingly peculiar combination which never fails to produce a grand effect4 ,this is the real secret of ,claude's seaports4 ,his stately buildings1 moles1 and tall towers form a right angle with the straight horizon2 thus the whole is magnificent4 ,nothing of the sort could be produced in the interior of a country but in a situation like the present4 ,who but a man of extraordinary genius would have thought of rearing in the desert such a structure as this1 or creating such an oasis8 ,the colouring of the building reminded me of ,malta or ,sicily1 a rich mellow hue prevails2 the ornaments of the ,tower are so clean1 so distinct1 such terseness4 ,the windows1 small and few compared with modern buildings1 give it the appearance of those early ,florentine edifices reared when security and defence were as much an object as beauty4 ,from every part of the ground the pile looks grand1 the lines producing the most beautiful effect4 ,the windows have iron gratings1 which give it an ,oriental character4 ,we entered1 and immediately ascended the ,tower4 ,a circular staircase was round the wall4 ,the proportion of the interior is beautiful2 you see from the bottom to the top4 ,from the apparent size of the three or four loopholes seen from the outside ,i imagined it would be dark and gloomy from within1 but ,i was agreeably surprised to find the whole extremely light4 ,the balustrade is ,egyptian in form1 and banisters bronze4 ,on reaching the top you find a square apartment containing twelve windows1 each a piece of plate glass1 the floor covered with red cloth and crimson window curtains4 ,the effect of distance seen through these apertures unobstructed by framework1 contrasted with the bronze balustrade without and crimson curtains within1 is truly enchanting4 ,we were not happy in the weather4 ,the morning was sunny and promising1 but at noon clouds obscured the heavens2 therefore we wanted that glow and splendour sunshine never fails to give the landscape4 ,the height is so great that everything looks quite diminutive4 ,the road running in a straight line across the ,down reminds one of a ,roman work1 and the whole expanse of country surrounding recalls the ,campagna4 ,two more flights of stairs1 most ingeniously contrived and to all appearance hanging on nothing1 lead to two other apartments1 the top one lighted by glass all round1 concealed on the outside by the open ornament that runs round the very top of the cupola4 ,on descending the staircase1 the door opening showed us at the end of a small vaulted corridor a beautiful statue by ,rossi of ,st4 ,anthony and the infant ,jesus4 ,at the back1 fixed in the wall1 is a large slab of red porphyry1 circular at the top and surrounded by an elegant inlay of ,sienna verd1 antique border surrounding the whole figure of the ,saint1 and has a most rich effect2 it is difficult to believe that the ,sienna is not gold4 ,the light descending from above gives that fine effect which sets off statues so much4 ,on the left hand of the figure is a picture by ,pietro ,perugino1 which for centuries was in the ,cathedral of ,sienna1 having been painted for that building and never removed till ,mr4 ,beckford 7,i suppose by making an offer too tempting to be resisted7 succeeded in obtaining it4 ,it is the ,virgin and two pretty boys1 admirably drawn1 very like ,raphael1 and in as fine preservation as the ,st4 ,catherine4 ,the execution is masterly1 and though not so free as the ,raphael still it is forcible4 ,the figure of the left hand boy is very graceful1 face beautiful and sweetly dimpled4 ,opposite are a ,francesco ,mola and a ,steinwych4 ,the ,mola is exceedingly fine1 the sky and landscape much like ,mr4 ,beckford's ,gaspar ,poussin in colour and execution2 the ,steinwych1 interior of a ,cathedral1 one of the most wonderful finished pictures ,i ever beheld4 ,this picture was painted for an ancestor of ,mr4 ,beckford's4 ,here there is a little cabinet full of rare and curious manuscripts4 ,we were shown a small ,bible in ,,ms41 including the ,apocrypha1 written #cjj years before printing was introduced1 and a very curious ,missal4 ,we then entered a gorgeous room containing pictures and curiosities of immense value4 ,its proportions seem exactly the same as the one on the floor below1 and decorations with its furniture pretty similar4 ,the windows in both are in one large plate1 and the shutters of plain oak4 ,the colour of curtains and carpet crimson4 ,in these rooms are a portrait of the ,doge out of the ,grimaldi ,palace1 purchased by ,mr4 ,beckford from ,lord ,cawdor1 who got it out of the ,palace by an intrigue2 this is a splendid portrait2 he has on the ,dalmatica and the ,phrygian ,cap worn by the ,doges on occasions of ,state1 and two lovely ,polembergs1 infinitely finer and more like ,claude than anything ,i ever saw2 in fact1 they were ascribed to ,claude by the ,german ,waagen1 architecture grand1 foliage light and elegant2 the figures are by ,le ,soeur4 ,two fine portraits by ,de ,vos1 wonderfully painted1 execution and colouring reminded me of ,vandyke1 particularly the latter1 and not unlike the ,gavertius in the ,national ,gallery4 ,then there is a magnificent ,houdekoeta1 the landscape part painted by ,both most inimitably4 ,a beautiful cabinet designed by ,bernini1 another with sculptured paintings1 in the centre the story of ,adam and ,eve4 ,two more candlesticks from the ,alhambra1 in shape and execution similar to those at the house2 two gold candlesticks after designs by ,holbein2 some curious specimens of china2 an ,asiatic purple glass vase1 brought by ,st4 ,louis from the ,holy ,land1 which contained at ,st4 ,denis some holy fragments2 a piece of china1 the centre of which is ornamented in a style totally different from the generality of china1 in eight or ten compartments1 and painted in such a manner that the festoon of leaves fall over and hide the fruit most picturesquely2 two ivory cups1 one in alto1 the other in basso relievo2 the latter the finer and most charmingly carved2 a small group in bronze by ,john ,bologna1 ,dejanira and the ,centaur1 admirably done4 ,here are tables of the rarest marbles1 one composed of a block from the ,himalaya ,mountains4 ,in one of the windows is a piece of ,african marble brought to this country for ,george ,,iv2 also a small bath of ,egyptian porphyry4 ,in the lower room was a vase containing the most lovely flowers1 that perfumed the apartment4 ,in this room1 from the judicious introduction of scarlet and crimson1 you have the effect of sunshine4 ,the ceilings are belted2 the interstices painted crimson4 ,it is impossible to give any idea of the splendour of these two rooms1 the finishing touch being cabinet looking glasses1 introduced most judiciously4 ,we now took leave of ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,his horses were waiting in the courtyard1 with two servants standing respectfully and uncovered at the door1 whilst two more held the horses4 ,the stately and magnificent tower1 the terrace on which we lingered a few moments1 whilst this extraordinary man mounted his horse1 all1 all conspired to cast a poetical feeling over the parting moment which ,i shall never forget4 ,i was reminded most forcibly of similar scenes in ,scott's novels4 ,in particular the ancient ,tower of ,tillietudleni was presented to my mind's eye1 and ,i gazed for a moment on this gifted person with a melancholy foreboding that it was for the last time1 and experienced an elevation of feeling connected with the scene which it is impossible to describe4 ,such moments are worth whole years of everyday existence4 ,we turned our heads to look once more on a man who must always create the most intense interest1 and ,i repeated those lines of ,petrarch1 introduced by ,mr4 ,beckford himself in his ,italy on a similar occasion-- ,o ora1 o georno1 o ultimo momento1 ,o stelle conjurate ad impoverime1 c4 ,i forgot to mention a cluster of heliotrope in blossom on the ,down1 growing in such wild luxuriance that ,i could not believe it to be my little darling flower4 ,however1 on stooping down ,i soon perceived by its fragrance it was the same plant that ,i had been accustomed to admire in greenhouses or in small pots4 ,october1 #ahch4 ,i have had another peep at the ,tower4 ,the day was auspicious4 ,i ran up the staircase and wonderfully enjoyed the prospect4 ,looking through the middle window towards the west you have a delicious picture4 ,the hills undulate in the most picturesque manner1 the motion of the clouds at one moment threw a line of hills into shadow1 which were the next minute illumined by the sun1 the ,avon glittering in the sunbeams1 the village of ,weston embedded in the valley1 a rich cluster of large trees near the town1 variegated by the tints of autumn1 united to form a charming picture4 ,the pieces of plate-glass that compose the twelve windows of this beautiful room cannot be less than #e4e;ft4 high and #ah;in4 wide4 ,on descending ,i was struck with the lovely effect of the corridor1 at the end of which is the statue of ,st4 ,anthony2 on the pedestal 7a block of ,sienna7 are engraved in letters of gold these words1 ,dominus illuminatio mio4 ,the ,francesco ,mola 7the ,magdalen in the ,desert7 is a lovely landscape indeed2 the rocks and their spirited execution1 lightness of the foliage1 c41 in the foreground remind one of ,st4 ,rosa4 ,a cluster of cherubs hovers over the head of ,mary4 ,in the smaller room on the upper floor is the picture by ,west of the ,installation of the ,knights of the ,garter4 ,from the contemplation of this picture ,i entertain a higher opinion of the genius of ,west than ,i ever did before4 ,you can scarcely believe it is his painting2 there is nothing of his usual hard outline1 the shadows are rich1 the background soft and mellow1 the lights unite sweetly1 and it is touched in the free and juicy manner of the sketches of ,rubens or ,paolo ,veronese4 ,it is difficult to believe that this picture is not #bjj years old4 ,the head of a child by ,parmigiano2 a large picture by ,breughel4 ,the enameled glass vase brought to ,europe by ,st4 ,louis2 this must be of ,arabian manufacture1 for the figures on horseback have turbans4 ,a large cabinet by ,franks1 the panels most highly finished1 different passages in the history of ,adam and ,eve form small pictural subjects4 ,in the larger room is the cabinet by ,bernini1 inlaid with mosaic work in the most finished manner1 surrounded by three brass figures2 ,bellini's two pictures of the ,doges of ,venice4 ,over ,bernini's cabinet a large piece of looking glass is most judiciously introduced4 ,in this and the lower room are two lovely crimson ,wilton carpets2 the ceilings of both are painted purple and red4 ,holbein's candlesticks are really gold6 the chasing is elegance itself2 an inscription states that they were made in #ahjj for the ,abbey at ,fonthill4 ,a fine picture of the infant ,st4 ,john by ,murillo2 a curious one of ,st4 ,anthony by ,civoli2 an exquisite interior1 by ,steynwich1 very small1 and being a night effect1 the shadows are amazingly rich4 ,in the passage leading to the garden are the two ivory cups by ,frainingo4 ,one is much better carved than the other2 it is copied from an antique vase4 ,the figures are ,bacchanalian4 ,the effect of this lower room from the vestibule1 illumined by the rays of the glorious sun1 was more beautiful than anything of the sort ,i had ever witnessed4 ,nothing can be more happy than the way the colour of this apartment is managed4 ,the walls are covered with scarlet cloth2 the curtains on each side of the window being a deep purple produce a striking contrast1 the colouring of the ceiling1 crimson1 purple and gold1 is admirable4 ,in one window is a large table formed of a block of ,egyptian porphyry1 on which were flowers in a large vase of ivory2 in the other recess1 or rather tribune1 is the small round ,himalaya block4 ,over the fireplace is a charming little ,dietrich1 and on either hand a ,polemberg4 ,on this side of the room the two ,de ,vos1 two singularly shaped cabinets of oak finely carved2 on one is a gold teapot4 ,on the right hand of the door is a ,simonini3 sky and distance admirable1 the colouring of two large trees very rich and mellow1 one a dark green1 the other pale yellow4 ,a picture on the other side of the door by ,canaletti4 ,on the opposite side of the room a large ,pastel1 ruins of foliage fine but figures lanky4 ,i had not before to-day seen the ,tower from the road entrance4 ,the effect of the whole building is grand1 and improved by the arches which support the terrace4 ,on the left the ground is admirably broken and the foliage rich4 ,november #crd1 #ahch4 ,mr4 ,beckford showed me some sketches of ,st4 ,non's ,sicily and harbour of ,malta1 forty drawings1 given by ,st4 ,non himself1 each bearing the name in pencil2 he also showed me a ,,ms4 ,arabian ,nights4 ,he studied ,arabic very deeply in ,paris1 and had a ,mussulman master4 ,he read to me part of a tale never put into the ordinary edition1 translated into ,english tersely and perspicuously4 ,he is much indebted to ,arabic ,,ms4 for ,vathek1 and reads ,arabic to this day4 ,he says ,lord ,byron and others are quite mistaken as to the age when he wrote ,vathek1 not seventeen but twenty- three years of age4 ,sir1 says he1 if you want a description of ,persepolis read ',vathek4' ,he laughed heartily at the different sorts of praise bestowed by ,lord ,byron on ,vathek1 equal to ,rasselas1 like ,mackenzie4 ,lord ,byron tried many times to get a sight of the ,eps 81 often intreated the ,duchess to intercede with her father4 ,he once called with ,vathek in his pocket1 which he styled his gospel4 ,moore's ,lallah ,rookh has too much western sentimentality for an ,oriental romance1 the common fault of most writers of such stories4 ,beckford prefers ,moore's ,melodies1 and likes the ,loves of ,angels least of all4 ,fudge ,family he thinks admirable4 ,speaking of the triumph he achieved in writing as an ,englishman a work which was supposed for years to be by a ,frenchman1 he said3 ,oh1 my great uncle did more than me4 ,did you never read ',memories of the ,duke of ,grammont8' ,voltaire told me he was entirely indebted to my great uncle for whatever beauty of style he might possess4 ,french is just the same as ,english to me4 ,he showed me the ,eps4 ,october #ca4--,went out and accidentally met ,mr4 ,beckford speaking in praise of his ,west1 who painted expressly for ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,i said1 ,how did you get him to paint it so soft8 ,i suppose you particularly requested him to do so4 ,oh no4 ,mr4 ,west was a man who would stand no dictation2 had ,i uttered such a thought he would have kicked me out of the house6 ,oh no1 that would never have done4 ,the only way to get him to avoid his hard outline would be to entreat him to paint harder4 ,west came one day laughing to me1 and said1 ,all ,london is in ecstasy beholding the ,lazarus in ,sebo ,deltz1 painted they say by ,m4 ,a4 ,ha6 ha6 they don't know it is my painting4 ,l41 who brought the picture over1 came to me in the greatest distress1 ',the set is ruined by the salt water2 you must try and restore the ,lazarus4' ,i was shut up for two days1 and painted the ,lazarus4 ,on my asking if he believed it true1 ,mr4 ,beckford replied1 ,perfectly true1 for ,i saw it lying on the floor and the figure of ,lazarus was quite gone4 ,then you don't value that picture much8 ,all the rest is perfect1 and ,i offered #ab1jjj pounds for that and four more4 ,i saw in the ,escurial the marriage of ,isaac and ,rebecca1 now belonging to the ,duke of ,wellington4 ,in fact1 of all the pictures in the collection there is not more than one in ten that has escaped repainting4 ,the picture given by ,h4 ,carr ,i cannot admire1 the outline of the hill is so hard4 ,it is just the picture ,satan would show poor ,claude1 if he has him1 which we charitably hope he has not4 ,november #ajth1 #ahch4 ,how poor dear ,mozart would be frightened 7moralised ,mr4 ,beckford7 could he hear some of our modern music6 ,my father was very fond of music1 and invited ,mozart to ,fonthill4 ,he was eight years old and ,i was six4 ,it was rather ludicrous one child being the pupil of another4 ,he went to ,vienna1 where he obtained vast celebrity1 and wrote to me1 saying1 ,do you remember that march you composed which ,i kept so long8 ,well1 ,i have just composed a new opera and ,i have introduced your air4 ,in what opera8 asked ,i4 ,why in the ',nozze di ,figaro4' ,is it possible1 sir1 and which then is your air8 ,you shall hear it4 ,mr4 ,beckford opened a piano1 and immediately began what ,i thought a sort of march1 but soon ,i recognized ,non piu andrai4 ,he struck the notes with energy and force1 he sang a few words1 and seemed to enter into the music with the greatest enthusiasm2 his eye sparkled1 and his countenance assumed an expression which ,i had never noticed before4 ,mr4 ,beckford showed me some very fine original drawings by ,gaspar ,poussin1 exceedingly delicate4 ,on the back a profile most exquisitely finished1 another just begun1 and another by his brother in admirable style1 sketch of a peacock by ,houdekoeta4 ,when ,i was in ,portugal1 said ,mr4 ,beckford1 ,i had as much influence and power as if ,i had been the ,king4 ,the ,prince ,regent acknowledged me in public as his relation 7which indeed ,i was74 ,i had the privilege of an entrance at all times1 and could visit the ,royal ,family in ordinary dress4 ,of course1 on grand occasions ,i wore ,court costume4 ,he showed me a letter from a rich banker in ,lisbon1 a man in great esteem at the ,palace2 another letter from one of the first noblemen in ,portugal1 entreating him to use his influence with the ,prince ,regent for the reversion of the decree of confiscation of some nobleman's estate2 another from the ,grand ,prior of ,aviz 7in ,french74 ,mr4 ,beckford was treated as a grandee of the first rank in ,germany2 he showed me an autograph of the ,emperor ,joseph4 ,voltaire said to him1 ,je dois tout a votre oncle1 ,count ,anthony ,h4 ,the ,duchess was acknowledged in ,paris by the ,bourbon as ,duchess de ,chatelrault4 ,on going to ,court ,i saw her sitting next the ,royal ,family with the ,duchess1 whilst all the ,court was standing4 ,the ,duchess has fine taste for the arts1 quite as strong a feeling as ,i have4 ,the ,duke also is amazingly fond of the arts4 ,the ,marquis of ,d4 has a spice of my character4 ,the ,claude looked more blooming and pearly than ever4 ,i observed that ,i had never seen such a tone in any ,claude in existence4 ,i know many pictures which had that hue1 but they have been so daubed and retouched that they are no longer the same4 ,he showed me the ,episodes4 ,one begins1 ,mes malheurs1 ,o ,caliphe sont encore plus grands que les votres1 aussi bien que mes crimes1 tu a ete trompe en ecoutant un navis malheureux2 mais moi1 pour me desobir d'une amitie la plus tendre1 je suis precipite dans ce lieu d'horreur4 ,the origin of ,beckford's ,lives of ,extraordinary ,painters was very odd4 ,when he was fifteen years old the housekeeper came to him1 and said she wished he would tell her something about the artists who painted his fine pictures1 as visitors were always questioning her1 and she did not know what to answer4 ,oh1 very well2 ,i'll write down some particulars about them4 ,he instantly composed ,lives of ,extraordinary ,painters4 ,the housekeeper studied the manuscript attentively1 and regaled her astonished visitors with the marvellous incidents it contained2 however1 finding many were sceptical1 she came to her young master and told him people would not believe what she told them4 ,not believe8 ,ah1 that's because it is only in manuscript4 ,then we'll have it printed2 they'll believe when they see it in print4 ,he sent the manuscript to a ,london publisher1 and inquired what the expense of printing it would be4 ,the publisher read it with delight1 and instantly offered the youthful author #ej pounds for the manuscript4 ,the housekeeper was now able to silence all cavilers by producing the book itself4 ,having left an umbrella in ,lansdown-crescent1 ,i inquired of the gentleman to whom ,i am indebted for my introduction to ,mr4 ,beckford if he thought it would be taking a liberty if ,i sent in my name when ,i called for it4 ,i really don't know what to say was the answer1 you must do as you think proper4 ,i will only say that for my part ,i am always looking out for squalls1 but ,i daresay he will be glad to see you4 ,i accordingly determined to make a bold stroke and call on him1 remembering the old adage1 ,quidlibet audendum picturis atque poetis4 ,the weather was most delightful4 ,a wet and cold summer had been succeeded by warm autumnal days1 on which the sun shone without a cloud2 it was one of those seasons of settled fair so uncommon in our humid country1 when after witnessing a golden sunset you might sleep ,secure he'd rise to-morrow4 ,i therefore called at the great man's house1 and found the umbrella in the exact corner in the ante-room where it had been left a fortnight before1 and told the porter to announce my name to his master4 ,i waited in anxiety in the hall a few moments4 ,the footman returned1 saying his master was engaged1 but if ,i would walk upstairs ,mr4 ,beckford would come to me4 ,the servant led the way to the ,duchess ,drawing ,room1 opened the door1 and on my entering he retired1 leaving me alone in this gorgeous apartment1 wondering what the dickens ,i did there4 ,you may suppose ,i was not a little delighted at this mark of confidence1 and spent several minutes examining the pictures till the author of ,vathek entered1 his countenance beaming with good nature and affability4 ,he extended his hand in the kindest manner1 and said he was extremely glad to see me4 ,i instantly declared the purport of my visit1 that ,i had some copies of pictures that were once in his possession1 and that it would give me the greatest possible pleasure to show them to him4 ,i shall be delighted to see them was the reply1 but for some days ,i am rather busy2 ,i will come next week4 ,you have had a visit from the author of ',italy'1 ,i observed2 people say that you like ,mr4 ,r4's poem4 ,oh yes1 some passages are very beautiful4 ,he is a man of considerable talent2 but who was that person he brought with him8 ,what a delightful man6 ,i suppose it was ,mr4 ,l4 ,i replied1 ,i believe they are great friends4 ,what an awful state the country is in 7he observed76 ,one has scarcely time to think about poetry or painting1 or anything else1 when our stupid1 imbecile ,government allows public meetings of #aej1jjj men1 where the most inflammatory language is used and the common people are called on to arm1 beginning1 too1 with solemn prayer4 ,their prayer will never succeed4 ,no1 no1 their solemn prayer is but a solemn mockery4 ,they seemed to have forgotten the name of the only ,mediator1 without whose intercession all prayer is worse than useless4 ,well1 well 7said ,mr4 ,beckford71 depend upon it we shall have a tremendous outbreak before long4 ,the ground we stand on is trembling1 and gives signs of an approaching earthquake4 ,then will come a volcanic eruption2 you will have fire1 stones1 and lava enough4 ,afterwards1 when the lava has cooled1 there will be an inquiry for works of art4 ,i assure you ,i expect everything to be swept away4 ,i ventured to differ from him in that opinion1 and said ,i was convinced that whatever political changes might happen1 property was perfectly secure4 ,some reforms1 ,i said1 would take place1 and many pensions perhaps be swept away1 but such changes would never affect him or his1 and after all it was but a matter of pounds1 shillings1 and pence4 ,there you are right1 he exclaimed4 ,if anything can save us 'twill be pounds1 shillings1 and pence1 meaning1 ,i suppose1 a union of all classes who possessed property1 from the pound of the peer to the penny of the plebeian4 ,but the present times are really very critical4 ,have you time to go through the rooms with me8 he demanded4 ,i replied that nothing would give me greater pleasure4 ,but perhaps you are going somewhere8 ,i answered that ,i was perfectly disengaged4 ,passing along the landing of the stairs he paused before the ,alderman's portrait1 and observed1 ,had my father's advice been taken we should not now be in danger of starvation4 ,i ventured to say that in those days there was more reciprocal feeling between the poor and the rich than at present2 now a-days classes are so divided by artificial barriers that there is little or no sympathy between any4 ,you are mistaken1 he replied4 ,as long as ,i remember anything there was always discontent1 always heartburning2 but at the time of my father's speech dissatisfaction had risen to such a pitch that ,i assure you these people were on the point of being sent back to the place they came from4 7,he alluded to the present ,royal ,family74 ,mr4 ,beckford opened the door of the great library1 and on entering ,i immediately discovered the cause of my being so much puzzled as to its architecture4 ,there are two doors in this magnificent room2 one leads to the ,duchess ,drawing ,room1 the other to the landing1 and to produce the air of privacy so delightful to a bookworm the latter is covered with imitative books1 exactly corresponding with the rest of the library4 ,i remembered on my first entering the room from the staircase1 and when the servant had closed the door1 there appeared but one entrance1 which was that by which we left this noble room1 passing thence into the ,duchess's room4 ,i puzzled my brains in vain to make out the geography of the place1 but could make neither top nor tail1 and should never have solved the enigma but for this third visit4 ,i have been to ,fonthill1 he said1 since ,i saw you4 ,i don't think much of what ,papworth has done there4 ,i rode thirty-eight miles in one day without getting out of the saddle4 ,that was pretty well1 eh8 ,i thought so indeed for a man in his seventy- ninth year4 99 99 99 99 99 ,on the #bhth of ,october1 #ahdd1 we left ,bath determined to examine the once far-famed ,abbey of ,fonthill1 and to see if its scenery was really as fine as report had represented4 ,the morning was cold and inauspicious1 but when we reached ,warminster the sun burst out through the mists that had obscured him1 and the remainder of the day was as genial and mild as if had been ,may4 ,we procured the aid of a clownish bumpkin to carry our carpet bag1 and left ,warminster on foot4 ,about four miles from that town those barren and interminable downs are reached which seem to cover the greater part of ,wiltshire4 ,the country is as wild as the mountain scenery of ,wales1 and the contrast between it and the polished city we had left in the morning was truly singular4 ,we took the road to ,hindon1 but a worthy old man1 of whom we asked particulars1 pointed out a pathway1 which cut off at least a mile and a half4 ,we followed his direction1 and left the high road4 ,mounting the hill by a steep and chalky road we reached a considerable elevation2 before us extended a succession of downs1 and in the extreme distance a blue hill of singular form1 at least nine miles off1 was crowned by buildings of very unusual appearance4 ,curiosity as to the place was at its utmost stretch1 but our ignorant bumpkin could tell nothing about it4 ,it surely cannot be ,fonthill was the instant suggestion8 ,impossible4 ,can we see the remains at this distance8 ,we continued our walk for about two miles1 without losing sight of this interesting edifice1 and at length all doubts were cleared in the certainty that the long wished-for object was absolutely before us4 ,it is impossible to describe the feelings of interest experienced by the sight of these gigantic remains4 ,the eastern transept still rises above the woods1 a point1 pinnacle1 and round tower4 ,descending the hill towards ,hindon we lost sight of the ,abbey4 ,a most singular specimen of country life was presented by an old shepherd1 of whom we inquired the way4 ,how far is it to ,hindon8 ,about four miles4 ,is this the right road8 ,yes1 you cannot miss it1 but ,i haven't been there these forty years4 ,naa1 this is forty years agone save two that ,i went to ,hindon3 'twas in #ahjg4 ,this place1 which once sent members to ,parliament1 and which the author of ,vathek himself represented for many years1 is not so large as the village of ,batheaston6 ,there are neither lamps nor pavement1 but it possesses a most picturesque little church4 ,it was one of the rotten boroughs swept away1 and properly enough1 by the ,reform ,bill4 ,here our rustic relinquished his burden to a ,hindon lad1 who acted as our future cicerone1 and undertook to show us the way to the inn called the ,beckford ,arms4 ,soon after leaving ,hindon the woods of ,fonthill were reached4 ,we mounted a somewhat steep hill1 and here met with a specimen of the gigantic nature of the buildings4 ,a tunnel about #ajj feet long passed under the noble terrace1 reaching from ,knoyle to ,fonthill ,bishop1 at least three miles in length2 the tunnel was formed to keep the grounds private4 ,the beech trees1 now arrayed in gaudy autumnal tints1 seen through this archway have a lovely effect4 ,emerging from the tunnel1 the famous wall1 seven miles long1 was just in front4 ,to the left you trace the terrace1 on a charming elevation1 leading to ,fonthill ,gardens1 and here and there you have glimpses of the great lake4 ,the ground is broken and varied in the most picturesque fashion4 ,you pass some cottages that remind you of ,ryswick1 and soon come to the church of ,fonthill ,gifford4 ,this church is perfectly unique in form1 its architecture purely ,italian2 one would think it was designed by ,palladio4 ,there is a pretty portico supported by four tall ,doric columns1 and its belfry is a regular cupola4 ,we at last gained the inn1 and were shown into a lovely parlour that savoured of the refined taste that once reigned in this happy solitude4 ,it is lofty1 spacious1 and surrounded by oak panels2 it has a charming bow window1 where are elegantly represented1 in stained glass on distinct shields1 the arms of ,alderman ,beckford1 his wife1 and their eccentric son4 ,the evening was most lovely4 ,a soft haze had prevailed the whole afternoon1 and as there was still an hour's daylight ,i determined on instantly visiting the ruins4 ,just without the sacred enclosure that once prevented all intrusion to this mysterious solitude is the lovely little village of ,fonthill ,gifford2 its charming cottages1 with their neat gardens and blooming roses1 are a perfect epitome of ,english rusticity4 ,a padlocked gate admits the visitor within the barrier2 a steep road1 but gently winding so as to make access easy1 leads you to the hill1 where once stood the gem and the wonder of earth4 ,the road is broad and entirely arched by trees4 ,emerging suddenly from their covert an astonishing assemblage of ruins comes into view4 ,before you stands the magnificent eastern transept with its two beautiful octangular towers1 still rising to the height of #abj feet1 but roofless and desolate2 the three stately windows1 #fj feet high1 as open to the sky as ,glastonbury ,abbey2 in the rooms once adorned with choicest paintings and rarities trees are growing4 ,oh what a scene of desolation6 ,what the noble poet said of ,vathek's residence in ,portugal we may now literally say of ,fonthill4 ,here grown weeds a passage scarce allow ,to halls deserted1 portals gaping wide4 ,fresh lessons1 ye thinking bosoms1 how ,vain are the pleasures by earth supplied1 ,swept into wrecks anon by ,time's ungentle tide4 ,of all desolate scenes there are none so desolate as those which we now see as ruins1 and which were lately the abode of splendour and magnificence4 ,ruins that have been such for ages1 whose tenants have long since been swept away1 recall ideas of persons and times so far back that we have no sympathy with them at all2 but if you wish for a sight of all that is melancholy1 all that is desolate1 visit a modern ruin4 ,we passed through briars and brambles into the great octagon4 ,straight before us stands the western doorway of the noble entrance hall2 but where is its oaken roof1 with its proud heraldic emblazonments1 where its lofty painted windows1 where its ponderous doors1 more than #cj feet high8 ,the cross still remains above1 as if symbolical that religion triumphs over all1 and ,st4 ,anthony still holds out his right hand as if to protect the sylvan and mute inhabitants of these groves that here once found secure shelter from the cruel gun and still more cruel dog4 ,but he is tottering in his niche1 and when the wind is high is seen to rock1 as if his reign were drawing to a close4 ,of the noble octagon but two sides remain4 ,looking up1 but at such an amazing elevation that it makes one's neck ache1 still are seen two windows of the four nunneries that adorned its unique and unrivalled circuit4 ,and what is more wonderful than all1 the noble organ screen1 designed by ,vathek himself1 has still survived2 its gilded lattices1 though exposed for twenty years to the pelting of the pitiless storm1 yet glitter in the last rays of the setting sun4 ,we entered the doorway of the southern entrance hall1 that door which once admitted thousands of the curious when ,fonthill was in its glory4 ,this wing1 though not yet in ruins1 not yet entirely dismantled1 bears evident signs of decay4 ,standing on the marble floor you look up through holes in the ceiling1 and discover the once beautifully fretted roof of ,st4 ,michael's ,gallery4 ,we entered the brown parlour4 ,this is a really noble room1 #eb feet long1 with eight windows1 painted at the top in the most glorious manner4 ,this room has survived the surrounding desolation1 and gives you a slight idea of the former glories of the place4 ,each window consists of four gigantic pieces of plate-glass1 and in the midst of red1 purple1 lilac1 and yellow ornaments are painted four elegant figures1 designed by the artist1 ,hamilton1 of kings and knights1 from whom ,mr4 ,beckford was descended4 ,as there are eight windows there are thirty-two figures1 drawn most correctly4 ,what reflections crowd the mind on beholding this once gorgeous room6 ,there stood the sideboard1 once groaning beneath the weight of solid gold salvers4 ,in this very room dined frequently the magnificent ,vathek on solid gold1 and there1 where stood his table1 covered with every delicacy to tempt the palate1 is now a pool of water1 for the roof is insecure1 and the rain streams through in torrents4 ,on the right hand is the famous cedar boudoir1 whose odoriferous perfume is smelt even here4 ,we entered the ,fountain ,court1 but sought in vain the stream that was once forced up1 at vast expense1 from the vale below and trickled over its marble bason4 ,for the stream has shrunk from its marble bed1 ,where the weeds and desolate dust are spread4 ,one would almost imagine ,byron had written his lines in the ,giaour describing ,hassan's residence amidst the ruins of ,fonthill1 so striking1 so tangible1 is the resemblance4 ,he says of the fountains-- ',twas sweet of yore to hear it play ,and chase the sultriness of day1 ,as springing high the silver dew ,in whirls fantastically flew ,and flung luxurious coolness round ,the air1 and verdure o'er the ground4 ',twas sweet1 when cloudless stars were bright1 ,to view the wave of watery light ,and hear its melody by night4 ,but the shades of evening1 now rapidly advancing1 warned us to depart while there was yet light enough to trace our path through the gloomy wood4 ,we entered its thick and umbrageous covert1 and were near losing our road before we reached the barrier gate4 ,the road was strewed with dry leaves1 which reminded me of the earthly hopes of man4 ,he builds too low who builds beneath the skies1 and he who wishes for solid happiness must rest on a broader base than that afforded by momentary enjoyment1 tempting and blooming as the foliage of summer1 but evanescent as its withered leaves4 ,the next morning was finer than our most sanguine wishes could have anticipated4 ,we were not long dispatching our comfortable breakfast1 and hastened to the barrier gate4 ,we here met a venerable woman1 whose noble features and picturesque dress would have served as a splendid model for ,gainsborough or ,ben ,barker4 ,stopping to inquire a nearer road to the ,abbey1 as she seemed indigenous to the place1 ,i was tempted to ask if she knew ,mr4 ,beckford4 ,i have seen him1 sir1 many1 many times2 but he is gone1 and ,i trust--,i do trust--to rest4 ,he was a good man to the poor1 never was there a better4 ,you astonish me2 ,i had heard that he never gave away anything4 ,good gracious1 sir1 who could have invented such lies8 ,there never was a kinder friend to the poor1 and when he left they lost a friend indeed4 ,not give away anything6 ,why1 sir1 in the winter1 when snow was on the ground and firing dear1 he used to send wagons and wagons for coal to ,warminster1 and make them cut through the snow to fetch it1 and gave the poor souls plenty of firing1 besides money1 blankets1 and clothing1 too1 and as for me ,i can answer for three half- sovereigns he gave me himself at different times with his own hand4 ,you surprise me4 ,i saw him coming once with his servants4 ,i had my baby in my arms--that's she that lives in that cottage yonder1 she's grown a woman now--and ,i was shuffling along to get out of his way1 when he called out1 ',what a beautiful little babe1 let me look at it1' and then he smiled and made as though he would shake hands with the child1 and1 bless you1 he slipped half-a-sovereign into my hand4 ,i confess ,i was delighted at the little anecdote1 and ,i am sure the good woman's praise was perfectly disinterested4 ,those who know anything of the poor are convinced they never flatter those from whom they can never again derive any benefit4 ,i had almost expected to hear curses1 if not loud at least deep4 ,a bailiff resides in the ,abbey stables1 who has charge of the place1 but the steeds are vanished from the stalls4 ,we inquired if we could see the remaining apartments1 but found the bailiff was gone to ,hindon1 and had taken the keys with him4 ,here was a difficulty indeed4 ,perhaps1 said his daughter1 you can get into the great ,tower staircase2 ,i think the door is open4 ,we proceeded thither1 but alas6 a ponderous door and locked most unequivocally denied all entrance4 ,perhaps father has left the key in his old coat2 ,i will run and see said our interesting young cicerone4 ,she scuttled off1 and we waited in anxiety1 till in five minutes she returned with a large bunch of keys1 the passport to the extraordinary apartments still remaining4 ,my joy was as great at hearing the lock turn as was ever ,vathek's when he discovered the ,indian at the gate of the ,hall of ,eblis with his clef d'or4 ,the great circular staircase survived the shock of the falling tower4 ,the stairs wind round a massive centre1 or newel1 three feet in diameter2 the ascent is gentle1 the stairs at least six feet broad4 ,they form an approach light1 elegant1 and so lofty that you cannot touch with the hand the stairs above your head4 ,numerous small windows make the staircase perfectly light1 and the inside is so clean that it is difficult to believe it is not continually scoured and whitened1 but this ,i was assured was not the case4 ,two hundred and ten steps lead to a leaden roof1 the view from which beggars description4 ,you have here a bird's eye view of the lovely estate4 ,majestic trees1 hanging woods1 and luxuriant plantations cover the ground for two or three miles round1 whilst beyond this begin those immense and interminable downs for which ,wiltshire is so noted2 they are dreary and barren enough in themselves1 but at such a point as this1 where the foreground and middle distance are as verdant and richly clad with trees as can possibly be desired1 their effect is very beautiful4 ,the absence of enclosures produces breadth and repose1 and the local colour melts gradually into the grey distance in the most charming manner4 ,looking westward the great avenue1 a mile in length1 presents itself2 to the south the ,beacon-terrace1 a green road more than two miles long1 leads to a high hill1 where the ,alderman commenced1 but never finished1 a triangular tower4 ,this road1 or rather avenue1 has a most charming effect2 the trees that bound its sides are planted in a zigzag direction1 so as to destroy the appearance of formality1 whilst in reality it is a straight road1 and you walk at once in a direct line1 without losing the time you would if the road were more tortuous4 ,on the south side the view is most fascinating4 ,in a deep hollow not half-a- mile off1 enbosomed1 nay almost buried amidst groves of pine and beech1 are discovered the dark waters of the bittern lake4 ,the immense plantations of dark pines give it this sombre hue1 but in reality the waters are clear as crystal4 ,beyond these groves1 still looking south1 you discover the woods about ,wardour ,castle1 and amongst them the silvery gleam of another sheet of water4 ,to the south-west is the giant spire of ,salisbury1 which since the fall of ,fonthill ,tower now reigns in solitary stateliness over these vast regions of down and desert4 ,stourton ,tower presents itself to the north1 whilst to the west1 in the extreme distance1 several high hills are traced which have quite a mountainous character-- ,naveled in the woody hills1 ,and calm as cherished hate1 its surface wears ,a deep1 cold1 settled aspect nought can shake4 ,the north wing of the ,abbey1 containing the oratory1 does not seem to have suffered from the fall of the ,tower1 and we next proceeded to inspect it4 ,a winding staircase from the kitchen court leads you at once to that portion of the gallery called the vaulted corridors4 ,the ceilings of four consecutive rooms are beautiful beyond all expectation4 ,prepared as ,i was by the engravings in ,rutter and ,britton to admire these ceilings1 ,i confess that the real thing was finer than ,i could possibly have imagined4 ,king ,edward's ceiling of dark oak 7and its ornaments in strong relief7 is as fresh as if just painted1 and the beautiful cornice round the four walls of this stately gallery is still preserved1 with its three gilded mouldings1 but the seventy-two emblazoned shields that formed an integral part of the frieze have been ruthlessly torn off4 ,the roof of the vaulted corridor with its gilded belts is the most perfect of the series of rooms1 and that of the sanctum is beautifully rich2 it is fretted in the most elegant way with long drops1 pendants1 or hangings like icicles1 at least nine inches deep4 ,here alas6 the hands of vandals have knocked off the gilded roses and ornaments that were suspended4 ,these three apartments are painted in oak1 and gold is most judiciously introduced on prominent parts4 ,but the ceiling of the last compartment is beyond all praise2 it gleams as freshly with purple1 scarlet1 and gold as if painted yesterday4 ,five slender columns expand into and support a gilded reticulation on a dark crimson ground4 ,in the centre of the ceiling is still hanging the dark crimson cord which formerly supported the elegant golden lamp ,i had formerly admired in ,lansdown-crescent2 it seemed to have been hastily cut down1 and its height from the floor and its deep colour1 the same as the ceiling1 has probably prevented its observation and removal4 ,the southern end of the gallery has been stripped of its floor1 and it was with difficulty1 and not without danger1 ,i got across a beam2 and1 standing with my back against the brick wall that has been built up at the end1 where were once noble glazed doors opening into the grand octagon1 ,i surveyed the whole lovely perspective2 the length from this spot is #abj feet4 ,the beautiful reddish alabaster chimney-piece still remains1 but it is split in the centre1 whether from the weight of wall or a fruitless attempt to tear it out ,i know not4 ,the recesses1 once adorned with the choicest and rarest books1 still retain their sliding shelves1 but the whole framework of the windows has been removed1 and they are open to the inclemency of the weather1 or roughly boarded up4 ,the stove1 once of polished steel1 is now brown and encrusted with rust as if the iron were #ejj years old4 ,it is impossible for an architect or artist to survey the ruthless and wanton destruction of this noble wing1 unscathed and uninjured but by the hands of barbarous man1 without feelings of the deepest regret and sorrow4 ,how forcibly do the lines of the noble bard recur to the mind on surveying these apartments1 still magnificent1 yet neglected1 and slowly and surely falling into ruin-- ,for many a gilded chamber's here1 ,which solitude might well forbear1 ,within this dome1 ere yet decay ,hath slowly worked her cankering way4 ,i ran up the circular staircase1 and entered the noble state bedroom4 ,the enormous plate glasses still remain2 the ceiling is of carved oak relieved by gold ornaments4 ,with what emotion did ,i turn through the narrow gallery1 leading to the state room1 to the tribune1 which looked into the great octagon4 ,a lofty door was at the extremity4 ,i attempted to open it2 it yielded to the pressure1 and ,i stood on the very balcony that looked into the octagon4 ,here the whole scene of desolation is surveyed at a glance4 ,how deep were my feelings of regret at the destruction of the loftiest domestic apartment in the world4 ,twenty years ago this glorious place was in all its splendour4 ,high in the air are still seen two round windows that once lighted the highest bedrooms in the world4 ,what an extraordinary idea6 ,on this lofty hill1 #abj feet from the ground1 were four bedrooms4 ,below these round windows are the windows of two of the chambers called nunneries4 ,landing on this balcony ,i quickly conjured up a vision of former glory4 ,there were the lofty windows gleaming with purple and gold1 producing an atmosphere of harmonious light peculiar to this place1 the brilliant sunshine covering everything within its influence with yellow quatrefoils4 ,from that pointed arch once descended draperies #ej feet long6 ,the very framework of these vast windows was covered with gold4 ,there was the lovely gallery opening to the nunneries1 through whose arches ceilings were discovered glittering with gold1 and walls covered with pictures4 ,exactly opposite was another tribune similar to this2 below it the immense doors of ,st4 ,michael's ,gallery1 whose crimson carpet1 thickly strewed with white roses2 was seen from this place1 whilst far1 far above1 at an elevation of #acj feet1 was seen the lofty dome1 its walls pierced with eight tall windows1 and even these were painted and their frames gilded4 ,the crimson list to exclude draught still remained on these folding doors1 but the lock was torn off6 ,i closed the doors1 not without a feeling of sadness1 and returning to the small gallery again ran up the ,lancaster ,gallery to another noble bedroom4 ,finding the stairs still intact ,i mounted them1 and found a door1 which opened on to the roof4 ,we were now on the top of the ,lancaster ,tower4 ,though not so extensive as the view from the platform of the great staircase1 there is a peep here that is most fascinating2 it is the extreme distance seen through the ruined window of the opposite nunnery4 ,the glimpse ,i had of the bittern lake having sharpened my appetite to see it1 ,i descended the staircase of the ,lancaster turret1 and marching off in a southerly direction hastened towards its shores4 ,but it is so buried in wood that it was not without some difficulty we found it4 ,never in happy ,england did ,i see a spot that so forcibly reminded me of ,switzerland4 ,though formed by ,art1 so happily is it concealed that ,nature alone appears1 and this lovely lake seems to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano4 ,it is much larger than ,i anticipated4 ,a walk runs all round it2 ,i followed its circuit1 and soon had a glorious view of the ,abbey1 standing in solitary stateliness on its wooded hill on the opposite side4 ,the waters were smooth as a mirror1 and reflected the ruined building2 its lofty towers trembled on the crystal wave1 as if they were really rocking and about to share the fate of the giant ,tower that was once here reflected4 ,we followed the banks of the lake4 ,passing some noble oaks that were dipping their extended boughs in the water1 we soon gained the opposite side4 ,here is a labyrinth of exotic plants1 a maze of rhododendrons1 azaleas1 and the productions of warmer climes1 growing as if indigenous to the soil4 ,we passed between great walls of rhododendrons1 in some places #ae feet high1 and reached a seat1 from whence you see the whole extent of this lovely sheet of water4 ,what ,i had seen and admired so much on ,lansdown was here carried to its utmost perfection2 ,i mean the representation of a southern wilderness4 ,in this spot the formality of gardening is absolutely lost4 ,these enormous exotic plants mingle with the oak1 the beech1 and the pine1 so naturally that they would delight a landscape painter4 ,these dark and solemn groves of fir1 contrasting so strikingly with the beech woods1 now arrayed in their last gaudiest dress1 remind me forcibly of ,switzerland and the ,jura ,mountains1 which ,i saw at this very season4 ,nature at this period is so gaudily clad that we may admire her for her excessive variety of tints1 but cannot dare to copy her absolutely4 ,in this sheltered and sequestered spot the oaks1 though brown and leafless elsewhere1 are still verdant as ,july4 ,every varied shade of the luxuriant groves--yellow1 red1 dark1 and light green--every shade is reflected in these clear waters4 ,three tall trees on the opposite shore have1 however1 quite lost their leaves1 and their reflection in the wave is so exactly like ,gothic buildings1 that one is apt to imagine you see beneath the waters the fairy palace of the ,naiads1 the guardians of this terrestrial ,paradise4